DT 351 RC12p V » >? ^.. 1 ■?■* ^ ^ ■^. Z^^ ^^''i' $^<-/^ ^ ,T. ^ *^ a ,^* %»^^ THE LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LOS ANGELES t^^^r^ PROGRESS THE AFRICAN MISSION, CONSISTING OF Messrs. RICHARDSON, EARTH, AND OVERWEG, CENTRAL AFRICA. \_Jlead before the Royal Geographical Society of London on the Idth of January, the 24tth of March, and the 1 0th of November, 1851.] / AFRICAN MISSION TO CENTRAL AFRICA. 3^/ PROGRESS Communicated by Mr. A. Petermatm. This expedition is under the direction of Mr. James Richard- son (well known from his travels in the northern portion of the Great Sahra in 1845 and 1846), who is directed by the English Government to proceed to Tripoli, and thence across the Sahra to the Bilad el Siidan or Negroland as far as lake Chad, for the purpose of concluding commercial treaties with the chiefs of the countries he is to visit. Dr. Barth and Dr. Overweg, two Ger- mans, accompany him for the purpose of making scientific obser- vations, with the express sanction of the English Government, and upon the special recommendation of the Geographical Society at Berlin, and Plis Excellency the Chevalier Bunsen. After having thoroughly explored lake Chad and the surrounding country, Mr. Richardson will return northwards to Tripoli, on the direct Bornii route, while the two German travellers intend com- mencing the more difficult part of their journey, crossing the Line on their way to Mombas (Mombasah). The entire journey, if made in a direct line, will exceed the distance from Tripoli to the Cape of Good Hope. On the 8th December, 1849, Dr. Barth and Dr. Overweg went in the steamer from Marseilles to Philippeville, in Algeria, where they landed on the 11th. In Tunis, which they reached on the 14th, they made various purchases of cloth and other objects ne- cessary for their travels, and engaged as servant a negro from the Bilad el Siidan (between Sakatii and Bornu), who speaks Arabic, Italian, and French fluently, besides the language of his own country. From Tunis they proceeded to Tripoli, partly by land and partly by sea, where they arrived before Mr. Richardson. The time they had to wait for the latter gentleman, was usefully employed in preparations for the journey, and in an excursion to the moun- tainous region south of Trijioli. This region, which was explorec by the travellers from the 2nd to the 24th February, 1850, lies about 50 miles S. of Tripoli, and extends 150 miles in a direction from W.S.W. to E.N.E. It does not form a separate range of mountains, but is rather the northern edge of a grent tableland, the average elevation of which is from 2000 to oOOO feet above the level of the sen. Its three divisions are distinguished as the Yofran or Jebel, the Ghariyan (i. e. Troglodytes), and B 2 122()d^rt 4 Mission to Central Africa. the Tarhonah, the first of which lies S.W. of Tripoli, and con- sists, geologically, of limestone and sandstone, with substrata of variegated marl and gypsum ; it is so dry and stony, that dates, olives, and figs can be cultivated only in the Wadis or valleys. Volcanic formations occur in the Ghariyan division, which is situated due south of Tripoli. In this group, basaltic cones, sur- mounted by slender colunms, break through the white limestone hills. The mighty mount of Tekkurt,* near the Ghariyan defile, has a fine extinct crater. The soil of this district consists of a rich red loam, extremely fertile, and covered with the most luxuriant plantations of olive-trees and saffron. It is in this rich loam thaf the inhabitants have dug their subterranean dwellings. The Tarhonah mountains, forming the third division, and lying S. E. of Tripoli, are lower than the preceding groups, and are characterized by the general cultivation of grain, and abundance of Roman remains. Such is a brief outline of the general character of this region, a full account of which, by Dr. Earth, with a valuable map, has been sent home. It may also be added that an unexpected degree of cold was experienced in their excursion : on one day, the thermometer, before sunrise, stood as low as 26° Fahr., and on the 2nd and 3rd of February the snow obliged the travellers to remain in their tents. The winter seems to have been un- usually severe for those countries. In Ghadamis, snow fell several times, and at Suknd, it came down in such quantities, that the inhabitants apprehended the destruction of their houses ; even at Murziik ice of the thickness of a finger was formed on small pools of water. After their return to Tripoli, some more weeks were required for their preparations, and the transport of the boat for navigating lake Chad caused considerable difficulty. For this purpose, a beautiful wherry had been constructed by the direction of the Admiral at Malta, broad in the beam, and as light as a cork on water ; but it was necessary to take it to pieces, and more than eight camels were requisite to convey it during a four months' journey across the burning sands of the Sahra. The party started, at last, on the 23rd March, 1850, the great caravan having departed before them ; but the party formed a small caravan of itself, having about 40 camels, laden with their effects and merchandise. Another important servant had been secured by them at Tripoli, in the person of a trading Bagdermi negro, who has travelled from his native country to Tripoli several times, is ac(juainted with the principal merchants in Bornu, and, besides his mother tongue, speaks the languages * This Berber word is the name of a town in S. Algeria, spelt Tegort in our maps. Tekiirt, or Tekiut, is pronounced in Barbary Tegurt or Tugurt ; the letter kaf having in the West the sound of «7 in good, get, give. &c.— K. Mission to Central Africa. 5 of Bornii and Mandarah, the countries to be explored by the expedition. The greatest possible assistance was rendered by Her Majesty's Consuls in Tripoli and jNIurzuk to the undertaking, so that the expedition started under the most favourable circum- stances. The direction of the route to Murziik was almost due south from Tripoli, beyond the Ghariyan defile, the country consisting of a continuous table-land, of an average elevation of 2000 feet. As far as the Well of Tabdniyah, many deep Wadis intersect this table-land, and the ruins of several Roman monuments and columns were discovered by the travellers. Southward of that place is a table-land or Hamadah, an immense desert of con- siderably greater elevation, and extending for about 110 geogra- phical miles in the same direction. As far as the eye can reach neither trees nor indications of wells are visible, and the scanty vegetation which occurs, is only found here and there in the trifling- irregularities of the surface. The ground is covered w^ith small stones, pyramids of which, erected with great labour, serve as road marks to the intrepid camel-drivers by day, while the Polar Star and Antares are their guides by night. After six long days' journey, the expedition reached the southern edge of this table- land, which descends in perpendicular walls to the Wadi el Hessi. Following the descent for about 60 geographical miles, the travellers came to the Wadi Shi'ati,* over another plateau of equally dismal aspect. It is composed of a black sandstone, the disintegration of which forms a dark yellow sand, covering the inequalities of the stony surface, from which stands out promi- nently the black rock, in high cones of the most fantastic forms, strikingly representing basaltic rocks. They reached Murziik f on the 6th of May, and remained there till the 12th, collecting much important information respecting the countries and nations to the south. Murziik is very unhealthy and dangerous for Europeans, but happily none of the party suffered during their stay. On the 1 "ith of June they set off for Ghat, w^hich they reached on the 17th of July. The most interesting result of this journey was the discovery of several curious sculptures on the rocks of the Wadi Felisjareh. One of them consists of two human figures with the heads of birds and a bull, armed with spears, shields, and arrows, and fighting for a child ; the other is a fine herd of oxen going to a watering place, — most skilfully grouped and executed. In the opinion of the travellers the tw^o works bear a striking and unmistakeable resemblance to the sculptures of Egypt. They are evidently of much higher antiquity than many other sculptured * Shi'ati or Shiyati'; probably the former, which signifies split or divided.— R. t Murziik, an Arabic participle, is the name of the Ikni Marzu'k, a trihe which formerly dwelt there —R- f) Mission to Central Africa. tablets found by tbe travellers, on wliich camels formed generally the principal objects. The party started from Gh it after a stay of some days, for the kingdom of Air* or Asben ; they had to cross a va^^t desert, totally uninhabited for about 250 geographical miles, and succeeded in reaching Tarajit, the first inhabited place in Air, on the 22d August, where they intended to make some stay, as that country had never before been visited by Europeans. From letters of a later date, since received, it appears that Mr. Richardson and his party, five days after the period last mentioned, had experienced repeated attacks from treacherous and fanatic 7'awai-ik,t their lives having been in great peril. On reaching the frontiers of the kingdom of An- they were surrounded and followed by large numbers of the Hagar-Tawarik,:j: on one occasion by as many as 100 armed men. After having escaped from these bands, with the loss of most of their goods, the inhabitants of Air also commenced hostilities, taking away all their camels. Some pious Mussulmans of Seluflyeh, however, fortunately took them under their protection, promising to see tbem safe to Tm-Tellust, the residence of the Emir, el Niir, Sheikh of the Kelowis, to whom the travellers were recommended. II. First Letter from Dr. Barth to Dr. Behe. Communicated by Dr. Beke. Ti'n-Tellust, 2nd October, 1850. My dear Sir, — You will, I suppose, have already heard of the various misfortunes tliat have befallen us on our way to this country, which, as it was never before visited by any European, except, perhaps, by Hornemann, could not be ventured into without great risk. Our difficulties, thank God ! are over ; and we have passed the last four weeks in tolerable security, though not in enjoyment of the liberty requisite for exploring Air, as we are detained like prisoners in this vilhige, the residence of the power- ful She'ikh-cl-Nur, who has taken us under his protection. The central position of this interesting country, however, has afforded us an opportunity of making very satisfactory inquiries about the surrounding desert, and we have been able to obtain * Perhaps Hdldr in Leo Africanus (p. 10) and Ibu Balutah (p. 45): the Kdhir is the reading in Kosegarten's and RI. de Slant's version (Jour. Asiat. 1843, p. 237). Obs. The aspirate in Ilahir -b\^ is hardly sounded at all : hence the travellers thought it was Air. — K. See Cooley's 'Negroland' for Ahu" and Kaliir. — Ed. t Tawarik is the plural of Tarki (the Tergates of Leo Africanus), pp. 10, 47, and seems to be a general name assumed by the Berbers in the Sahra. As the final consonants have always the surd, not the sonant, power, k (kaf) regains its proper sound at the end of words. — R. According to Leo, the Tergates formed only one of five desert tribes. — Ed. J Heggars, Ibn Batutah, Journ. Asiat., Mars 1813, p. 238.— R. Mission to Central Africa. 7 very credible reports respecting the country itself, which was never supposed in Europe to be a territory containing more than a hun- dred villages. Mr. Richardson has forwarded the result of his inquiries to England, and I have sent mine to Berlin, reserving a short report, which I shall forward to your Government on my return from Agadez, the Sultan's residence, which is about 150 English miles distant westwards from hence. I shall set out for that capital to-morrow, accompanied by an able and trustworthy relation of the Sheikh, and carry very little luggage. This journey, which it has been very difficult to perform, as well on account of the dangers on the road, as from the small provision allowed for our expenditure, will enable me to see some of the finest parts of Asben, and will bring me into communi- cation with the large tribes settled westwards, who command the road between this country and Sakatu. Besides which, Agadez itself deserves to be visited, and we should certahily be deserving of much reproach if, after staying so long in Air, we did not even try to reach that capital. The whole of the Great Desert, or Sahni, will, I trust, assume a very different appearance in consequence of our researches ; but it is not possible at present, when all our time is taken up in recording the result of our inquiries, to send to our friends in Europe more than very short notices of what we have learnt. As such you must consider the 1. Route from Asiyii to Tutcdt, which I received from 'Abd-el- Ivadir, an intelligent native of 'A'in-es-sallah,* who had travelled by this road twice. A kafilah,t (^. e. party of travellers), lightly laden, can perform the journey, he says, in 25 days, but his sub- joined itinerary gives 404 All the horses used in Asben are brought from Tuwat, with which much intercourse is kept up. After a journey of four days the kafilah reaches the territory of the Imrat [Imghat ?], a very ])redatory tribe, extending all the way between Tm-tellust and Agadez. Five days further on are the Plains of the Sakamaren, a branch of the Hagara possessed of large herds of cattle, and supplying a great part of An* with butter. The Hagara, who are at a considerable distance to the north of this road, are at enmity with their neighbours, so that there is an unoccupied tract of some days' journey between them. Adjoining to the Sakamaren are the Kel-emcUcl {i. e. ^Vhite Kel), closely united with the Tawarik-ei-baidha {i. e. White Tarkahs) on account of their wearing a white dress, and the * Saint's Spring, near the extremity of Tuwat, 27° 30' N. and 1° 3' E. of Greenwich, according to Major I.ainp, who was there in January, 182(i. — \\. t Kafilah in Arabic=Karaviin in Pei.sian. — \{. X At 10' per diem=r4(»(i', and :'5 days at 10' a-tlay = 400'; a satisfactory approxi- mation. — R. 8 Mission to Central Africa. Harar ; but the Kel-emellel are a branch of the Great Kelowis* tribe. The Kiiluhet are mixed with the Kel-emellel. The kafilah leaving Asiyu for Tuwat reaches on ihajirst day the W^di, Kel-siif (Valley of Wool-Kels), through which it passes for the three followinrf days in a direction nearly due west, and on the fourth reaches the large ghadir (pool) of Telelelt, enclosed between two cliffs, where there is plenty of Hashish [herbage] and Talhah [acacia gummifera] . Here all the water in the valley is collected together, and the ravine takes a southerly direction. From Telelelt the soil is on the first day, sandy ; on the second, rocky ; and at noon (dhohor) on the third day, the kafilah reaches Insenuwan, where water is collected in a narrow and deep reser- voir hewn out of the rocks. Hashish, and the fersik-tree are plentiful here. Continuing for two days along the same Wadi', the kafilah reaches the well el-Hajrah at al 'ashtl [8 h. p.m.], where water is found in hollows among the rocks above the valley. At noon on the second day from el-Hajrah, the date-kafilahs stop at Esta, where there is no water, and from that place descend for a considerable distance into a wide valley where there is liashish, talhah, and fersik ; and continuing in a westerly course, at the beginning of el keilah (the siesta) on the tliird day reach Teharah, where water is found just beneath the surface of the ground. The road then passes over uneven rocky ground, intersected by many irregular wadi's, and on the fourth day water is found at Tenakhordt, inclosed by very precipitous rocks. The road here turns from a westerly to a northerly direction, the soil being still rocky, with much hashish ; and at the begin- ning of el keilah on the fourth day, the first well, called Arak, [Salvadora Persica,] is reached, in a large valley bearing that name. This is followed for two days, and at dhohor on the fourth the second watering-place, Artik, is found between high rocks. At this station the kafilah quits the wadi, and, passing over an argillaceous, pebbly level, again comes near to the rocks at the hour of al 'asha on the third day, and halts at the watering place. El Terretimin, on the rocks near which, there are many drawings and inscriptions. This is the beginning of the Wadi Agemamar, in which, at about 'Asha, on the third day, the frst, and on the sixth the second well bearing that name is reached. These valleys are succeeded by a complete desert as far as Khaneg (Khauik) about moghreb (sunset) of the third day, where, at the foot of the distant rocks, hashish is found. Before keilah on the third day, constantly travelling between chains of mountains, the poor slaves reach El Sha'ab, where there * KoUuwi in Hornemann, v} 2 (i. 151, Langlos' French Version). — R. 3fission to Central Africa. 9 is plenty of grass, but no water ; nor is any found till they reach the well Hasi el kowe'irah in the morning of the second day, where it is abundant, together with the hashish called damaran, at the foot of a precipitous rock. A desert, with rocks interspersed here and there, is then tra- versed, and on the morning of the second day the kafilah enters Tuwat. III. — Report on Agddez by Dr. Bartk. Communicated through the Chevalier Bunsen, by Lord Palmerston. In taking the road to the Bilad el-Sudan by way of Air, never before visited by Europeans, the African mission had from the first, an intention of reaching, if possible, the town of Agadez. From Leo Africanus, and more recently from the inquiries made by the traveller, Paul Lucas, Agadez was known in Europe long before the name of the Kelowis, or even before the existence of the Tawarik had been discovered. As soon, therefore, after our arrival as circumstances permitted, and the population of Air had become more accustomed to see Europeans and Christians among them, I resolved to make an excursion from Tin-Tellust, the residence of the Sheikh, el Nur, to Agadez, and, having intimated my intention to Mr, Richardson, communicated with the Sheikh, in order to obtain his guaranty and the protection of a party of his people proceeding to Agadez to witness the investiture of the new Sultan, Abd-el-Kadir. El Nur, having received a present of the value of 11/., con- sented, and the valiant Hamma, his son-in law, was appointed to take me safe to Agadez, to show me the place, and to conduct me back in safety. "Mr. Richardson, who, according to the stipu- lation made between us, had promised to repay the value of the present made to El Nur, furnished me also with a present for the Sultan of Agadez, consisting of a fine bernus, an Egy])tian shawl, and some other articles, when, taking with me a copy of the treaty drawn up by Mr. Richardson, in order, if possible, to get it signed by the Sultan, I started on the 4th of October for Agadez. On my journey to, as well as from, Tin-Tellust, I took a more easterly road than the common one, which passes by Asodi and the Wadi Tellwa, touching this latter only in the Wadf Anderez, which, like all the larger and deeper Wadis in this mountainous and most interesting tract of country, where basaltic formations take the place of granite, is extremely rich in duui-trees,* and presents a really tropical character. In this part is found plenty of wild beasts, principally lions and wild boars, also gazels (inclu- * PropL-rly dauiii, often pronounc.nl dom. It is the forked palm — Crucifera Thebaica, not found farther N. than in the Sa'id or Upper Egypt. Its fruit is called Mokl by the Arabs. — \{. 1 Mission to Central Africa. ding the larger species called mareiyah*), ostriches, and mon- keys, I was seven days in going and six in returning, and following up the road each way with the compass I was able to lay it down on the map most accurately. But reserving an extract of the itinerary and a map of the road for the appendix to the report on the town of Agadez, I will here only mention that I had already discovered from the reports of the people that it is wrongly placed in all our maps, being rather to the S.S.W. of Tin-Tellust. When I arrived at Agadez the investiture (sarauta) of the new- Sultan had not taken place, and Abd-el-Kadir was still living in the private apartments of the palace (a gi'oup of about twenty houses situated towards the western end of the town, from which it is separated by a gate) ; in the Haussa language it is called " fadah." The same morning the Kelgeris, who had brought the Sultan from Sakatu, followed by their families, their immense flocks of camels and their cattle, left the place, and it was only after they had departed that I could enter the town with some security, in the company of the Kelowis. Early in the morning after our arrival we paid our respects to the Sultan. Abd-el-Kadir, ben e'Sultan, Mohammed-el-Bakr, who had already before enjoyed that dignity during no less than twenty years, is a stout man of about fifty-five years of age, with large benevolent features, as far as the shawl wound round his head and face permitted one to judge. Sitting in a large room, supported by two short massive columns, and very simply dressed in a large white shirt, he received me most kindly, and seemed rather astonished that a person should pay him a visit, of whose nation he had scarcely heard mention, excepting in connection with gunpowder. I delivered the presents intrusted to me by Mr. Richardson, and the letters from the Sheikh, el Nur, and assured the Sultan that, though I had come alone, I paid him also the respects of my companions. The treaty I could not with prudence mention in the presence of the Kelowis, nor did circumstances allow me afterwards to try to get the paper signed by him. Indeed the fact that the first European who ever visited this place, travelling as such, was well received not only by the authorities, but also by the people of the town, is a matter of really greater consequence than if by some intrigue or other (for it would scarcely have been possible otherwise) 1 should have succeeded in obtaining the sig- nature of a paper which could be of no importance as long as the Sultan of Sakatu had not signed it. Agadez being merely of im- portance to European commerce because it lies on the most direct road from the Mediterranean to Sakatu, it would have been interesting for one of us to have taken this road ; but the * One large species of antelope is called Mare'iyah, i. e. remarkable. — R. Mission to Central Africa. 11 losses we had suffered did not allow of it. The Sultan of Sakatu, whose authority as Eim'r-el-Mumenin is very great, having signed the contract, an English merchant, passing by Agadez, will not have to pay more than an Arab, viz. four dollars for every camel- load. It is of great importance, and will make the name of the English respected through the whole road to the interior, that the Sultan has severely punished those tribes which had attacked and plundered us, as I shall have occasion to mention hereafter. The Sultan, who had not looked at the gifts in our presence, expressed his satisfaction immediately afterwards by sending me a fat ram, and henceforth he invariably sent dinner and supper every day, and most frequently a particular dish for myself made of corn, com being regarded in this country as a princely dish. When the Sultan left for the razzia he had the kindness'to send me provisions from his camp, in order that his guest might not be inhospitably treated during his absence. The investiture of the Sultan did not take place until four days after our arrival, on the 16th of October, or the first day of the great Mussulman feast called by the Arabs " Id-el-Kebir," and in the Haussa language " Sallalajeh." Early in the morning the Sultan of the Kelowi's, Astafidet, who has his residence in Asodi, made his entrance at the head of about 400 of his people, which was but a small part of the force which he had collected together. They rode directly to the fadah or palace, where the ceremony was to take place, for which ten of the chief men of the Itesan and the Kelgeri's had already arrived the day before. Abd-el-Kadir was then conducted by the principal people of the three tribes mentioned, from his private apartment to the public one. The leaders of the Itesan and Kelgeris, who went in front, then begged him to sit down upon the gado, a sort of couch made of the branches of the dum-tree, similar to those used in Egypt, covered with mats and a carpet. Upon this the Saltan sat down, resting his feet on the ground, but he was not allowed to put them upon the gado, or to make himself comfortable in the Oriental style, before the Kelowis asked him to do so. Such is the ceremony of the combination of these Tawarik tribes in the investiture of the Sultan. Immediately after this ceremony was over, the religious one of the great Mahometan feast took place, the two being combined this time for greater splendour. About half-past eight in the morning the procession, which I witnessed from the terrace of our house, left the fadah, taking its way through the southern part of the town, after which turning to the N. it went round the whole till it reached a place about a /juarter of an hour to the ^V. of the town, where, near the tomb of a saint of no great fame, called Sidi Hamada, there are some graves. On this spot, according to an ancient custom, the Sultan 12 J\Iissw7i to Central Africa. with all his suite has to pray on this great holiday of the Mos- lims. The prayers being finished, the procession returned by the southern part of the town, and at about ten o'clock the different parties separated. This ceremony or procession was very interesting, as it exhi- bited a considerable number of Tawarik of different tribes in their best array. In front of all, accompanied by the musicians, rode the Sultan, enveloped, over his fine Sudan robe, in the blue bernus the Englishman had brought him, which was admired by everybody as the most beautiful ever seen here ; and these tribes were extremely pleased that a person should come from afar in order to present to their Sultan so fine a dress to be worn on the day of their great ceremony. Next to the Sultan rode the two Serki-n-Turawas, after whom followed the Chiefs of the Itesan and Kelgeris, on horseback, in full dress and armour, with their swords, daggers, long spears, and immense shields ; then came the longer train of the Ke- lowis, mostly on Meherls/ with their Sultan, Astafidet, at their head, and last of all came the people of the town. Indeed the whole recalled the chivalrous processions of the middle ages, the more so as the high cap of the Tawarik, enveloped by a profu- sion of tassels on every side, together with the black nedi", which covers the whole face, leaving but the eyes visible, and the shawls wound round the head, quite partake of the character of the helmet, while the glittering black robes, over which on such a day the principal people wear a red bernus thrown over their shoulders, very well represent the heavier dress of the knights of yore. Immediately after this ceremony was over the people deliber- ated respecting an expedition — "razzia" in Arabic, "jaki"in Haussa — to be undertaken against the Avelimmiden,* or, more properly, the Meharebin or freebooters ; and councils of the chiefs and the Sultan were also held. A great Maraboot, Sidi R'alli el Haj Annur, whom I shall mention afterwards, had made peace between the Kelowi's and the Kelgeris, and they agreed to act in common. Amongst a warlike people like the Tawarik, expedi- tions of such a kind do not require long preparations ; and after a herald of the Sultan had proclaimed through the streets on the lOtli the order of his master, that nobody should proceed on the road to Damergii, Abd-el-Kadir departed on the evening of the 21st with about 700 men, among whom were 100 cavalry. Instead, however, of proceeding southwards, as the proclamation intimated, he marched North, encamping on the first night not far from the town ; for it had been deemed more prudent to put down first the roving spirit of the people to the north, and to punish the freebooters of the Imrat, the Ikeskisan, and particu- Also denominated by the Arabs " Mulathimmiin " (veiled). — R. Mission to Central Africa. 13 larly those of the tribes on the northern frontier of Air, who had done so much mischief to our mission, viz. the Tede, the Kel-fede, the Kel-hagar, and the Kel-razar. The Sultan and his council had been in a state of great anxiety, fearing that the Avelimmiden, a most powerful tribe, and, as I shall afterwards show, identical with the Sorgu, or Serkiu-Tawarik, might join with the tribes to the north. The Sultan re-entered Agadez, however, on the 7tb of this month, and we had the satisfaction to learn that even the highest men amongst the tribes which had taken away our pro- perty had not been spared, and that the Sultan had taken nine camels from the person who had deprived me of my Meherf. As soon as I had learnt that the Sultan was about to leave, I urged Hamma, under whose protection I was staying, to suggest to him that a letter might be written to Her Majesty, in which the Sultan should express his satisfaction that an Englishman had visited him and brought him presents in her name. This, at first, had been represented by Hamma as possible, but had become rather difficult, the Sultan being always accompanied by the different people that had arrived, besides which, in his peculiar position, he could scarcely venture openly to write to a Christian monarch. I was not able to obtain a second interview with him, but on the morning of his departure, when he was sitting in the courtyard of the fadah, surrounded by a great many people, I thanked him for the kindness and particular attention he had shown me, mentioning at the same time the letter to the Govern- ment in whose service I was travelling.* The Sultan at once turned the conversation in a very amiable manner to letters of recommendation to his friends, the authorities in Sudan, and after my return to my quarters, Hamma brought me three letters, in which the Sultan had recommended me as his guest to the Governors of Kami, Kashnah, and Daurah (a place between Zender and Kami), and acquainted me at the same time that he himself had received a letter from the Sultan for the Sheikh el Niir, under whose protection and amongst whose people 1 had been. As the people of El Nur were not able to buy provisions enough in the market, I did not leave the town imtil ten days after the Sultan had started for the expedition, when the town had become quiet. During this time, as well as while Abd-el- Kadir was at Agadez, I received visits from many persons, the most considerable among whom were the nephew of the Sultan, El Kalek, as well as the son of the Kadi, who visited me twice ; also the former Serki-n-Turawa, Mohammed Boro, and a very enlightened Mohammedan, Ma'llem (or Doctor of the Law) Haj Mohammed Omar, who called upon me several times, conversing freely respecting the difference between the Moslim creed and * See the letter of the Sultan, p. 62. 1 4 jSfissiou to Central Africa. that of the Christians, and finally asked for a copy of the Gospel in Arabic. Besides these I had interviews with two principal men of the Itesan, who, in jiassing by the house where 1 lodged, saluted me in a most friendly manner, shaking hands with me from horseback, and assuring me of their friendship, as they were on their way to join the Emir, el-Miimenin (Commander of the Faithful). Besides the ceremony of the investiture, and the expedition, the most interesting circumstance which took place during my resi- dence in Agadez was the passing of the immense salt caravan of the Kelgens, which arrived on the 17th and started the next day on its road to Bilmah, and which was said to consist of not less than 10,000 camels. Account of Agadez. Agadez * or as the Tawarik call it, Ekade, is situated on a Hamadah, or high plain, consisting of sandstone, and, at least near its extremity, of granite covered with small pebbles, which towards the north and east is very narrow, but becomes wider towards the west and south. On this plain, w^hicli, though con- taining no arable soil, furnishes a good deal of herbage and wood in its slight but wdde depressions, the town of Agadez is built. The Wadis, or valleys, which constitute all the inhabitable ground of Asben or Air, do not furnish room for a large place, all the dwelling-places, which are scattered over the country, being mere villages, with the exception of Asodi, w^hich was in former times a place of importance. But while Asodi seems to have been once the real central point of all the country of Asben, Agadez from the first, as is quite clear from its situation, was intended as a sort of rendezvous between the Kelowi's and the tribes which inhabit the districts to the south and west. No author, as far as I know, has mentioned this place before Leo Africanus, in whose time it was most flourishing. There are traditions among the inimbitants of the place, and particularly among the merchants from Tuwat and Ghadami's, according to which it is most probable, that though Agadez was not founded, it became at least more important, and grew into a considerable town, by the arrival of the sections of several tribes from the north. These tribes are called Arabs; but there is no doubt that they belonged to the Berber race, converted already to Islam, and influenced by the civilization of the Arabs. The settlement of these tribes in a place like Agadez, which from natural reasons is the great central point for the commerce of all this part of the interior of Africa, is perhaps of greater * The correct 8])elling is evidently Akadaz, or Akadas, pronounced Egad6z. The Tawjirik drop the final letter. — R. Mission to Central Africa . 15 interest than any other, excepting that of the Mesratah, who belonged to the three most important commercial places of Northern Africa, viz. to Tuwat, Ghadamis, and Aiijila. To Tuwat belonged the Gurara, a tribe intimately connected with the Berber race, which, till our days, has preserved a par- ticular language or retana of its own, called el Zenatiyeh,* very similar to the Tawarik. From Ghadamis two tribes have settled in Agadez, the Tesko and the Beni Uazith, and, as in former times there was a well in Agadez, called Ghadamis, so the Tesko have given their name to a well still in use. The Tesko consisted of two families or feias, viz. the Beni Darar, and the Beni Maziar, while the Beni Uazith were divided into four feias, viz. the Tan- gazen, the Tefarfara, the Yeresan, and the Auelad Belil. (The Tesko at present do not constitute a part of the inhabitants of Ghadamis, having retired long ago to Beniolid.) Besides these two tribes, there were settled in Agadez the Aujila, a section of the inhabitants of the oasis of that name, who are still among the most enterprising travellers and merchants of the desert, and the Mesratah (inhabiting a group of more than forty villages, four days' journey east of Tripoli, and called by Europeans Mesuratah, the remnant of the once powerful tribe of that name), who formerly possessed the fourth quarter of Agadez. The inhabitants do not, like the merchants of the other towns, pay any tribute or moddah to any Tawarik chief for his protection on their journeys to the Sudan. The memory of the residence of this tribe in Agadez is still living and attached to several localities of the town. Almost all the other gates are in ruins and are scarcely traceable, but the small gate which has received its name from this tribe is still existing in the western part of the wall ; a cistern also (which I shall mention hereafter) is still called Mesratah, and to the north of the town there is a well named after the Ben-Gummas, one of the three divisions of the Mesratah, the names of the two others being Bu-Tarah, and the Ben-Gottarah, who lived outside the wall to the west, where the ruins of an extensive suburb are now seen. Together with these tribes, of whose history we know some- thing, there were settled in Agddez, the Tafimatah,t a tribe whose origin I have not been able to trace. As tradition does not say when those tribes settled in Agadez, it is also silent respecting the period when they left the town, but it has preserved a curious fact, viz. that when these Arabs, as they are with some justice styled, and as the Arab formation of * The Zenata were a principal tribe of the Berber race. — Ed. t This name resembles TuJ'inek, the name given by the Berbers to their remark- able and very ancient written character. — K. 16 Mission to Central Africa. some of the names shows, left the place, they had 500 jekhfa or cages, in which the wealthier Arahs carry their favourite women on their journeys, with them. The account of the settlement of the Arabs in Agddez is confirmed by Leo Africanus, who, though he calls the people of Agadez " Negroes," yet describes their manners as very similar to those of the Arabs.* That the Arabs left the place long before Leo (who did not visit Agadez himself) wrote his description of Africa (1517), has been confirmed to me by the Mallem Haj Mohammed Omar, who, when I questioned him concerning the period when the town became so deserted as it now is, informed me, that it first declined from its happiest state about 400 years ago, when a great number of its inhabitants left the place. There can be scarcely a doubt that it was either the Taw^arik or the older inhabitants of Agadez, or of a neighbouring place, who drove away the Arabs ; for there is a very old tradition, according to which the present inhabitants of the town came from a celebrated valley, called Irin AUem, about a day's journey from Agadez to the north, where they are said to have lived before ; and I was assured by the Tuwati, Abd- Allah, that the ruins of some houses are still to be seen in that valley, as well as two solitary date-trees bearing fruit, a very rare thing in this country, where, as far as I know, there are no date-trees except in a very few places, such as Iferuan and Chimmia. There is another tradition, according to which the Itesan were the eldest inhabitants of the place, from whom the present inhabitants are descended by an intermixture with slaves. The Emrjhedesie (or Emkedesi ) Lancjuacje. — There is, no doubt, a good deal of slave blood among the present inhabitants of Agadez, as is the case with the whole population of the south-eastern part of Air, and principally in Tin-Tellust, but there must have been a very ancient stock of indigenous black people, who have trans- mitted from age to age a peculiar language of their own, " the Eraghedesie," not a mere dialect of the Tarki', or the Berber, or of the Haussa language, but a peculiar idiom, which is the same LANGUAGE AS THAT SPOKEN BY THE PEOPLE OF TIMBUKTU and of the eastern part of Bambarrah. So all, among whom were several Tuwati, who had been in Timbuktu informed me, and the correspondence of the four first of the numerals (for the people of Agiidez do not count farther in their own language) and that of some other words with those published in the Annals of Oriental Literature, as cited by Prichard in his Researches into the History of Mankind, show that they are correct. There is in addition a curious resemblance between the language of the * Leo distinctly says that many of the inhabitants were foreign merchants.— K. Mission to Central Africa. 17 people of Agndez and that of the people of Timbuktu, which I will mention here, as it struck me with surprise. The Sorgii-Tawarik, who iiave become known in Europe from the quarter of the Niger, are unknown among the Tawarik on this side and among the people of A'ir, and every one smiled at me as often as I inquired respecting the Sorgu or Sergii. On the contrar}-, every one knew the large and powerful tribe of the Avelimmiden. 1 was thus quite at a loss respecting the Sergii, when, on having placed among the phrases to be translated in the Emghedesfe language — " where do the Avelim- miden reside ?" all at once, instead of the Avelimmiden, men- tion was made of the Sorgu or Sergii ; and I now learnt that the people of Agadez, and they alone of all the people round them, call the Avelimmiden by this name. I observed, also, in the course of my researches, that they call the language of the Tawarik in general, which is known under the name of Tema- zight, by the particular name of Sergiuneki. This fact, viz, the identity of the language of Agadez with that of the language of the eastern part of Bambarrah, is of the greatest ethnological interest, as it seems to prove that the people of Agadez are of the same stock as the people of Bambarrah, and are perhaps the remains of a great people, which in ancient times, before the Tawarik appeared, occupied all this tract of country. It seems at the same time that this district, and pi'obably also the town of Agadez itself, was inhabited from a very remote period by a peculiar people. Indeed all my inquiries whether any tribe or the people of any town round about Agadez spoke the same language, were answered in the negative, till at length I was assured by a traveller that in a })art of Adar the same language is spoken.* It is scarcely pro])able that the people of Agadez should have changed their language from a mere intercourse with Timbuktu, even if such was, as it seems to have been, a most important one, inasmuch so that Agadez became itself one of the first markets for gold, and had its own standard of this precious metal. It is odd that according to Leo Africanus the language of the people of Agadez and that of Timbuktu were in his time quite dif- ferent ; for while in Timbuktu and the adjacent countries the Sungai language,! which most probably is identical with the idiom of Bambarrah, was spoken, he says that the people of Agadez used the language of Gober. One might as well say now that the Haussa language, which seems to be identical with what Leo * The Bambarali language is a Mandingo dialect ; and Dr. IJarth means pro- bably that the Kissur (the language of Timbuktu) is spoken to the east of Baniba- rah. — Ed. f For the identity of the Kissiir, Songhai, and Timbuktu vocabularies, see Mr. W. 13. Hodgson, of New York, on the same. — Ed. C 18 Mission to Central Africa. calls the language of Gober, is the idiom spoken in Agadez ; Haussa being still at present the language of commerce and of intercourse between the different tribes. Agadez in former ages must have been a considerable and wealthy place, containing not less than from 50,000 to 60,000 in- hahitants, the circuit of the whole town being about three miles. I was assured by the Tuwati, one of whom had been at Timbuktu seven times, that it was without comparison larger than that cele- brated place. Indeed it must have contained from 20,000 to 30,000 inhabitants as late as the beginning of this century, when, as I learned from the Mallem Haj Mohammed Omar, the greatest part of the inhabitants left the town, scattering themselves over the towns and villages of Haussa, where living is cheaper. At present the appearance of the town is that of an almost ruined and deserted place. Scarcely the sixth part of it is in- habited, the whole south quarter being entirely deserted, and in the northern part there is a much greater number of ruined houses than of inhabited. In my note to my colleagues, after a three days' stay in Agadt'z, I estimated their number at not more than 400. But after considerable investigation, and after many inquiries, I am sure that I am not very wrong when I now estimate the number of inhabited houses at about 700. Tbe houses are generally spacious, and all those which I visited contain from ten to fifteen inhabitants, so that the number of inhabitants, including both sexes and all ages, may be from 7000 to 8000, Commerce. — The inhabitants are at present, as in the time of Leo Africanus, partly merchants and partly artisans. The merchants seem only to visit the markets of Kashnah, Tasawah, Maradeh, Kami, and Sakatii, in all which places countrymen of theirs are settled ; but, as far as I learned, they never go to the northern markets of Ghat or Murzuk, unless on a journey to Mecca, which several of them have made. As for the commerce with Timbuktu, all the intercourse with that place has now so com- pletely been destroyed, that although I took all the pains possible, I was not able to get the itinerary of this interesting route, and I was assured by several that there was but one man, of a very advanced age, who knew it, and that he was absent. The road from Agadez to Mabruk is no longer used for commercial pur- poses, but is infested by freebooting parties of the Kelferowan from the route between Tuwiit and Timbuktu. The commerce of Agadez itself is nothing but a speculation in provisions, principally in ghussub* or kasab (millet), which con- stitutes the principal and almost the only food of the inhabitants, as well HI Haussa as in the country of Air, When a caravan arrives * Ghussub, in imitation of Denmau, &c. Kasab is a generic term, signifying " reed," or " grain." — U. Mission to Central Africa. 19 from Damergu, from whence all Air is supplied, the merchants buy a large quantity at a low price, and keep it till it becomes dearer, when they retail it in smaller parcels. But there being no coin in the market (unless the strips of cotton called " kebbekah " be regarded as such), all the buying and selling is done by exchange, the principal objects with which people barter being " tourkedi " (the dark-coloured cotton for female clothing made in Sudan) ; the fine Egyj^tian coloured leather, called kornu, which they use for the ornamental parts of their sandals, and of their leather work ; mahmiidi, or English calico ; zubaetas, or white shawls, which the wealthier people wind round their heads ; cloves, pepper, pearls, etc. With these objects everything may be bought in the market of Agadez, from the most valuable camel down to a pound of meat, or a small cheese, though ghussub, which in general is cheaper here than in Tm-tellust, is the standard currency Q^ the market. The mithkal (3 dwt.), which is equal to 1000 kerdi (Kauri's),* of which at present 2500 make an Austrian dollar, being a mere nominal sort of money, according to which the value of things is estimated. Cowries (kauris) have no currency in the place ; while of the kebbekah, which I have mentioned above, eight kamah or dhira (cubits) make one rijal, and ten rijal or erjel are equal to one mithkal. Manufactures. — The manufactures are very limited, con- sisting merely in leather-work and mats. With leather-work several classes of artisans are occupied, the shoe — or rather sandal- makers, the saddlers, and those who make leather bags and other things of a similar kind — the latter class consisting merely of women. The sandals are as far famed as the saddles, particularly those for mounting the meheri's or swift camels, and are called rakhla in Arabic, kigi in Ten);ihirgh,t and si'rdi in Haussa ; the other leather-work made by the women is also very neat. All these things as well as the mats, which are of different kinds from the coarser up to very handsome sorts of different colours, are made in the houses themselves, there being at present no shops in the town, though the ruins of the houses prove that in former times there have been some on the north side of the market, called Katanga. Even this part of the town, the most frequented and important, where the three market places are, is now surrounded with ruins of houses, on whose tops vultures watch the whole day for their prey. The three market-places lying almost in the centre of the town and on the southern limit of the quarter, which is now most inhabited, are as follows, proceeding from east to west : the Kagwah n'delti, or the market of vegetables ; then the Kagwah * Two-fifths of an Austrian dollar, or 2('(/. of our nionty. — R. t Perhaps Temazight, i.e. Nobles. — II. c "2 20 Mission to Central Africa. narahoma, where it appears that formerly the camels were sold, but which is now the place for selling meat and cattle, while the camels at present are sold on the small place before Mohammed Boro's house, called Enrarar en zakan ; and the third market, called Katanga, where all other things are sold. These markets are very poor, and were particularly so when I visited the place, all things excepting provisions fetching a very low- price. English calico of very good quality was sold at 20 per cent, less than it had been bought for at Murzuk, while on other things the loss was still more considerable. Indeed Ag;idez is in no respect a place of resort for merchants, not even Arab, while, for Europe, its only importance consists in its being the most direct road to Sakatii and that part of the Siidan. I add here the prices of different objects, as they were sold in the market during my residence in the place, remarking, at the same time, that the price of things is very difterent accordingly as-you exchange them for other objects, or if you buy ghussub. Mithkal, Rijul. Ghussub, or Gafuli,* twenty sekkah (the sekkah of Agadezbeing double as large as that used in Tin- Tellust) ...... 1 Rice, ten sekkah . . . . .1 Camel, a young one two years old, not yet lit tor car- rying things . . . . .18 Ditto, a full grown . . . '. .25 Horse, a good strong horse . . . .100 Ditto, a fine one ..... 1000 Ass . . . . . . .6-8 Ox 8 Calf ....... 4 Ram ....... 1 5 Sandals, a pair of common ones . . .01 Ditto, a pair of fine ones . . . . 5 Camel saddle, or Rakhla, a fine one . . .10 Ditto, a common one . . . . .5 Leather bag, ol" coloured leather . . .1 Mat, a fine coloured one . . .06 English calico, ten dhira' or kamah . . .1 Zubacta ...... 1 Kornu, or the fine Egyptian leather, the piece . 1 Tourkedi, of common workmanship . . .2 Ditto, of finer workmanship .... 3-5 Government. — The authority of the Sultan (Amanokal in Tema- hirgli ; baban serki in llaussa ; kokeu in the Emghedesie lan- guage) is not at all limited to the walls of the town, but is rather greater outside than inside of it. As far as I could make out, he does not receive any tax or tribute from the inhabitants, but his only income (besides the presents sent him on his investi- ture, and on other occasions, and besides a portion of the camels * Kdfuli is another kind of grain. — R. Mission to Central Africa. 21 and flocks taken from freebooters, and other persons of that sort) seems to arise from levying a duty of ten mithkdls on every camel-load of merchandise that is brought into the town, provisions being excepted. He is, in reality, the Sultan of several Tawarik tribes, whose union according to agreement is represented in him, and in the whole of his investiture the inhabitants of Agadez have not a word to say. The Itesan and the Kelgeris take him from Sakatu to Agadez, where he is met by the chiefs of the Kelowi's, par- ticularly by the Sheikh El Niir, or a person representing him, who, if they are pleased with him, make him Sultan. He must be taken always from one ftimily, whose origin, as the people say, is from Stambul. Therefore, when the present Sultan, 'Abd el Kadir, ben e' Sultan, Mohammed el Bakri, after he had been Sultan for many years, was deposed, on account of dissensions between the different tribes, in the month of Ramadan, 1265 (March of last year),* the Itesan and Kelgeris sought, or rather had already sought his relative, Hamed el Arjau, who was made Sultan, All the chiefs not being satisfied with the new Sultan, another member of the same family, of the name of Makita, or Imketen, living at Damergii, was elected Sultan by the dissentients. In consequence of this disagreement, which was near causing a war between the different tribes, the whole country was thrown into a state of the greatest confusion, of which the Aulad Suleiman (Chil- dren of Solomon) took advantage, which partly was the cause of the disasters under which our party had suffered. But the more pru- dent chiefs recurred once more to Abd el Kadi'r, who is considered by the people to be the best of the family, and made him Sul- tan a second time. During my stay in the place he imprisoned for some days three chiefs of the Itesan, who had arrived from Damergu in order to protest against him on the part of Makita. Limited as may appear the power of the Sultan, and dependent as he is upon the chief leaders of the Tawarik, lie has not only the right to imprison, but even to take life. Neither the Sultan of the Kelowi's, nor that of the Itesan, nor anybody else has the right to punish a person with death, but is merely authorised to seize him and to bring him before the Sultan, who, if he is found guilty, orders him to be beheaded outside of the town a little to the N.W., on a place called Azarmadarang. The Sultan, likewise, is said to have a frightful dungeon, where, as I was told, the guilty are thrown upon swords stuck upright in the ground. At present he is traversing the country, waging war witli and punishing the tribes that have troubled the country and in- * As 1265 began 27th of November, 1848, Ramad.in, which is the 9th month, began about the 21st of July, 1849, ami corresponded with August rather than March.- K. 22 Mission to Central Africa. fested the roads by their plundering excursions. Almost all the principal persons of the country accompanied him, among whom is the Chief of the Kelowis himself. The encampment of the army, which consists of about 3000 people, has no one central point, viz. the tent of the Sultan of Agadez, but there are tioo separate encampments. While Abd el Kadir is surrounded by the Kelgerfs, the Itesan, the Kelferwan, and the people of his town, the Kelowis are encamped round the spot where their own particular Sultan, Astafidet, dismounted. No one appears to have a tent except the Sultan of Agadez, who has one of a grey colour, but in other respects similar to those of the Tui'kish A gas. The court is formed by a number of servants or slaves, by some musicians, and by a sort of aides-de-camp called fadawa'n serki, viz. the sons of the former Serki-n-Tiirawa, or Minister, Mohammed Boro, but he has no Wezir ; unless this title be given to the Serki-n-Turawa. No doubt the Serki-n-Tiirawa * is the first person in Agadez after the Sultan, but it was long before I was able to make out what were the real duties of his office, though the former Serki-n-Turawa, Mohammed Boro, had been our travelling companion on our journey from Murzuk to this country ; unfortunately circumstances had not allowed me to secure at first the friendship of this respected person. After many inquiries I learnt that the Serki-n-Tiirawa was properly the superintendent of the Arabs visiting the place, and I have no doubt that his office dates from a very remote period, when. whole quarters of the town were inhabited by Arabs or by Berbers, already influenced by Arab civilization, and no doubt his office must have been of the greatest importance. At present his office with regard to the Arabs has become quite a secondary one. He has nothing else to do with the few Arabs, principally Tuwatis, who still visit Agadez, sometimes staying there two or three years, but to levy the tax on their mei'chandise, and to bring it to the Sultan, who, according to custom, gives him a small portion of it. On the contrary, the other part of the duty of Serkf-n-Tdrawa, which has reference to the Tawarik, is at pre- sent of much greater importance, for he has to accompany the large salt caravan of the Kelgeri's, which annually supplies Western Sudan with the salt of Bilmah, from Agadez to Sakatu, for which he receives one kantu, that is to say the eighth part (eight kantd weighing three Turkish kantars or quintals) of every camel-load, which forms a considerable income ; the caravan consisting generally of some thousand camels, and the kantu of salt fetching in Sudan from two to three dollars. t * Serki-n-Tiirawa, Chief of the Fulaui. Turawa in Ilaussa = a Fulan. — Ed. f His annual income can thus amount to 20,000 or 25,000 dollars. — K. Mission to Central Africa. 23 After having brought the salt caravan to Sakatfi, the Serki- n-Turawa annually has to go to Kanu, where he receives a small portion of the 600 cowries, or duty levied on each slave brought to the slave-market, after which he returns to Agadez with the Kelgeris that have frequented the market of Kami. This long annual journey, which brings the Serki-n-Turawa much more in connection with the Tawarik than with the Arabs, makes him at the same time a sort of intermediator between Agadez and Sakatu. The former Serki-n-Turawa, Mohammed Boro, was a native of Sakatu, where he has a house as well as in Agadez, Kami, and Zinder. The present Serki-n-Turawa, whose name is Ashu, is, as I was told, very rich. All the civil cases which do not come under the jurisdiction of the Serki-n-Turawa are brought before the Kadi, who imme- diately upon hearing the parties gives his decision. [ was twice present when an affair of some importance in dispute between my companions the Kelowi's and a man from the town was brought before him, which was decided in favour of the latter. The Kadi resides near to the great mosque, which is under his control. Besides the Kadi, one of the principal men of the town seems to be the respected Mallem Sidi Ghalli el Haj el Niir, but what are his functions I could not learn. Schools. — There are five or six schools in Agadez, where the boys learn reading and writing the Koran ; nevertheless there are but few persons here who understand Arabic. Morals. — The women seem to enjoy great freedom, of which they appeared to make full use, particularly after the Sultan had departed. Some of them are pretty, and have Arab features, and among the men, I observed fine northern faces and good figures. The population is so mixed that it would be difficult to make out the type of the original stock. The names of different quarters are still preserved, and are as follows : — Katangha, Gawa Ingirsou, Tafimata, Katiii, Kaswa, Ikenfeia, Amourieuel, Imurdiin, and Rcf la ; but besides Kaswa and Katangha (the markets), whose position I have mentioned before, I could not define their exact position. The extensive southern part of the town is quite deserted, and is separated in most parts from the northern quarter by an open irregular space, where there are three pools of stagnant water, called Digi, Therjeman (most probably so called from the interpreters, who in former times had there their quarters) — and the third, Mesratah. The whole town being entirely on a level, with the exception of five or six small hills formed in course of time by the rubbish, there is a view from every terrace over the town, so that I was able to 24 Mission to Central Africa. make a sketch of the western part from the terrace of onr house, which I used to frequent daily for one or two liours. Buil(lin[)s. — The buiklings are generally spacious, and are arranged in the following manner : the door leads immediately into an oblong room, extending through, with a separation on each side of the passage, formed by a sort of balustrade provided with mats, where the servants sleep. This first leads into a second and similar room, where, instead of matt^, there are sometimes bedsteads. From this second room, where the private apartments begin, two doors generally lead into a more or less spacious courtyard — " tsakan gidah " — surrounded by rooms in a very irregular manner. In this courtyard there are generally other bedsteads, covered on the top and on two ?ides with mats, and some- times a shady place, enclosed on all sides with mats, is formed. The houses are built of mud, and a few are whitewashed ; they are all Hat roofed, the roof being formed by planks of the diim- tree covered with mats, over which earth is thrown, and in the houses of the wealthier peof)le, there is an upper story, — soro — consisting generally of one very large room, to which a staircase, " abenhawa," leads from the courtyard. The houses are arranged most aj)propriate to the climate, and similar to that in which, as I was assured by my friends the Tuwatis, the houses of Timbuktu are built, and being enlivened by children, doves, and young ostriches, present a curious sight to the traveller. Of public buildings af present there are but few, and out of seventy mosque.:^, which are said to have adorned the town in former times, but ten are still in use ; not more than three of these seem to deserve the name besides the great mosque ; they are called Msid Mili, Msid Eheni, and Msi'd el Mekki. Even the great mosque, which is near to the fadah, has nothing particular about it, except a high tower, called Mesallajeli* For a place such as Agadez, which, like Timbuktu, is situated in the midst of warlike hordes, a high tower is of the greatest importance, in order to be aware beforehand when a razzia or a caravan is approaching. Agadez had therefore such a tower probably from the remotest period, but the present one is of recent date, having been begun six years ago, and it has just been finished ; the ruins of the former are seen at a little distance to the south-west. I was very sorry that I was not allowed to ascend it, the Kadi, who seemed to have some antipathy against Christians, assuring my companion, Ilamma, in my presence, that there was at present no entrance to the tower, tlie former one having been walled up on account of the Kelgeri's, who continually desired to go up to the top. "^ Masalla signifies \n Arabic a place of prayer. — 1{. Mission to Central Africa. 25 In its construction the tower is very simple, being built entirely of the same materials as the houses, viz. earth and wood. On the ground a number of thick quadrangular pillars, in several rows, support a more solid roof than is usually seen here, and form several halls. From them the tower, measuring at its base about thirty feet at each of its four sides, rises to a height of about ninety or ninety-five feet ; the earthen walls diminish in thickness, so that each side does not measure more than about eight feet at the top, and are strengthened and supported by thirteen layers of planks of the dum-tree, which, not closing together, project on every side about three or four feet, while in the interior they form a kind of ladder for ascending the tower. There are seven openings on each side, by which the interior receives light. Tiie town is surrounded at a little distance by slight undu- lations in the stony surface, of great extent, where in a sandy soil there is plenty of brushwood (all talhah-trees, Acacia Arabica), of herbage, and wells of very good water. This is a great advantage to the place, the caravans finding food enough for their camels near the town, while in most of such places it is necessary to send the camels oif to a great distance. There is also plenty of firewood. These ))leasant valleys, where you may forget that you are on a stony hamadah, have different names ; that to the S.W., which is at a greater distance, and where the salt caravan of the Kelgeris was encamped, being called Mermeru ; that to tlie S.E., Tesak ; that to the N., quite near to the walls at the north- western corner, having the name of Ameluli; and finally, the one to the N.E., on the road to Ti'n-Tellust, is called Ta- gurast.* These valleys near the wells are capable of culti- vation, but at present there are only two small orchards in Ame- luli, where vegetables are cultivated, all the other vegetables and fruits consumed by the inhabitants, such as melons, cucumbers, and principally melukhiyah (corchorus olitorius), being brought from the valley called " el Ilakhsas," about three hours distant to the N. of the town. Ail the loatcr which is used for drinking in Agadez is brought from the wells which are situated in these depressions, the water inside the walls having a disagreeable taste, and, cool as it is, being considered unwholesome. There were formerly eight wells in the town, all sunk thnmgh rocky ground to a great di^pth, but at ])resent only three are in use, the others being filled up ; of those still in use, the principal one, a little W. of the market, is called Shedwankah ; the names of some others which have an his- torical interest have been mentioned before. * See Map. 26 Mission to Central Africa. APPENDIX. I. Vocabulary of the Emghedesie Language. sun uonu mountain thanji moon handn valley ar'zer heaTCtt biui road henbiri earth kendia house hakau water ari garden aferrek fire horu horse bar witti ahiu camel jau rain kerneki ox hau day zaezeru donkey farka night kiggi sheep henkun (morning elfejr goat figgi month hendun ostrich ter'atter* year kiri fowl kernekii to-day zaezeru good akin yesterday baei bad adeskab (to-morrow e'suebha dear cgeb people man aberua berfiia cheap i enegeb [er'aderaji woman waei much bc'bbau child azekaena little (few) ke'tta father eubaba great bir mother enana small haketta brother biri warm arekenbafir ? sister kaena cold kauirasnaci ? Sultan kokeu new elthaki friend ennoa old hajenu head benrii strong kebbau body guengo weak emm'ekau mouth mai heavy kateno nose nini light hafesQsa eyes miia far amtir heart tekersut near amenekti hand kanba white kajura foot kae black bibo milk haul fast thanbi cheese kishi all keffo butter ki more bebbu meat hamu less ajeb (identical with salt kin' e'geb) dates gueriie how much mergi rice mau where mekikel ghussub haeni here enkiri shirt tekejm on bin blue shirt teblua under keudi (robe) cap fagel when /mend-effu tlek-uffii (trousers uendii (Haussa) now waei sandals ta'mii before ^ggar' desert keni'ggi why bmi?? village kdra yes iik town kar no hor tree tamet go koi source mu come aj6 well benikkau give ettan^i ? ? Mission to Central Africa. '17 put sakker I have aberaidaru lift up dok thou hast aberader'u take ji'nni he has aberaidar'u beat baket we have aberabodaru bind haul you have aberaidaru mount kir they have aber'ajarajudarii dismount zenbu(keti) I ar'ae, ar'aedh buy animerr'a thou ki sell daye he ar'u drink nin she tamendemt ? eat wau we ar'i'da speak kiman& you hennor'u hear mau they ar'iu see hasi they (fem.) ar'idu be silent danr'i one nifo, fem. kifo he died ab6n two ahiuka he knows aibain three ahinza we arrive aitu(keti) four etthaki The Emghedesie people do not count further than four ; make use of the Arabic. from five upwards they Give me something Give me water, that I may wash my hands IJring the camel-saddle, the sword, and the lance To-night you will have moonlight The Sim is very warm to-day Yesterday there was much rain You must bring firewood, it is cold I am very ill to-day, I must take medicine To-morrow we shall start early The people of Agaddz are ignorant people ; they do not know what is right Thy father and mother are still living, or are they dead ? Where live (encamp) the Aveltmvdilen ? have they a greater number of camels or of horses ? how do they call their market-place ? Bcgi This woman has milk to sell ; will you buy it ? All the women in Agadez, if you ex- cept very few, are come from Sudtin there is scarcely one that knows Tc- muhiryh (the Targiah) nqf'i haefo x nar'i ari ayahimmi ankanba kau zauketi elkif u takoba u igi aro' kiggi ame hende'in guma uenu zaezeru karmi bebba bi ari babo koi sdkete tugiijio ye dari bebba zaezeru aibara annasa s6- fari E'subha and el fejr airekeu bai-eii Eghedes en bareii futii, ennebi haeka kim auana anbaba anne hina ko abuu Kora zenbu Surku me yau abebbii mm bard abe'bbii yobu Surgu auenni Begi [ Wae ro hua abeni eddaro aibara eudaye d()r ?] Wae ro ame hua aibara audai- anga Azoi'u engekai (? Eghede) akauteri end e' Sudan maho kifo uibi Serkiuneki A SHORT DIALOGUE. How do you do ? How is your family ? How does it go on ? How is the state of health of the people of your house ? (All) well? What people are arrived from Sudan ; what news have you got from Sudan? sendi'nkini ma kenne hug'e manarciien [ma u'shttfet aberua men hog'ii] ma u hog'u koiiu [koiia] elrafia abcrua meudeni ati'iin da e' Suddn. ma u'lsaleu atehcu nesi men e' Sudan 28 Mission to Central Africa. All quiet. [kuthi] el rafia The market has been, or has it not been ? [Ma 'enuiba abera ko eshi'ah] aibara koi yubu ashianga (Were the prices) dear or cheap ? ligeb ko anegc'b When do we start for Sudan ; to-mor- mand-effa airekoye e' Sudan e' subbahko row or after to-morrow ? bibifu To-morrow. e' subhah We do not go ; no, we go in the night. ari hur'i, ari-s-ekkeu; hor'i, kiggi aire- koye What are the news ? ma n' isalen The news I did know, which news you I'salen abera anibae isalen ndbi isalen know ; that are the news which you engonudii ze rannin, nibai arae hriri know. I told (all) what I have heard, ze inau, nin ki ni'bai haeka but you know nothing. Come, I will tell you (something). Eyii her nesi ar'ae I come. ar'ae nekaye Tell me. herresi Come, we will go to that place. okiu keti airekaye da' effau I go not (now), wait and we will go. a-s-ekkoye sebberu aire-koye Let us go and eatbazeen? Aire-u-koye ari-wau thasu ' II. Route from Agcidez to Sakatu. 1st day. The caravan starts from Agiidez in the aj'ternoon, and the people encamp in the Wadi, called Uleije, where there is a well. 2nd. Kerbiib, a VVadi, where there is water in the sand. You arrive after sunset, having started at daybreak. 3rd. Aa'zerii — arrival at sunset ; started before daylight. Between Kerbub and Aa'zeru there are but very few stones, but all is covered with pebbles, and here and there a little sand. 4th. Tcberhurt — arrival after sunset, having passed a watering-plac ailed Aruthes. All pebbles and stones. 5th. //((/«/, a small town— arrival at sunset. Pebbles; very few stones. From Ingal the town of Agadez is provided with cattle. A gate is called kiifa n Ingal. tith. A wcll^ whose name my informant did not remember. Arrival at about four o'clock in the afternoon. 7th. Afai/en, a Wadi, where you arrive at the Aser. Pebbles and sand. 8th. You encamp on the i)lain a little before sunset. 9th. The same ; but here covered with some herbage. At sunset. 10th. A spot called Semyetayew — arrival at sunset. 11th. Jubeli, a considerable place; the market of the Kelgeris, belonging to Adar, whose territory begins here. V'ou arrive at the Aser, after having passed on your road Tesak. v 12th. Avelimmidtu — an encampment at sunset. loth. Erzdrur, a village — arrival about one o'clock. Road very stony. 14th. Tc'/)/*//", a village — at sunset. Koad stony. 15th. Duhiausu, a village — about one o'clock. IGth. ilfwz/;;', a village— at sunset. Always stones. I7th. A'hhw;', a village. Arrival a little after noon. All rocky. 18th. A/'/a', a village — at sunset. 19th. Warnu, a considerable place — at one o'clock. 20th. Sakatu, where you arrive a little after sunset. III. Route from Agddez to Marddeh, according to the Kelgeris, Gojeri. 1st day. Er'zer, a Wadi, where you arrive at the Aser, after having started from Agadez in tlie morning. 2nd. Emrc'nded, a VVadi— arrival at the Aser. Mission to Central Africa. '29 3rd. Urzedem, a Wadl — at sunset, after having travelled over sand. 4th. A valley, which, according to Gojcri, is called Temie, but which, according to his companion R'aser, bears the name of Af€n kuk. You arrive at tJie Aser. There is water in the valley. 5th. A valley called Tewuilu according to Gojeri, according to R'aser Begem, where you arrive at sunset. 6th. Akiikii, where you arrive at the Aser, after having passed a Wadi, called Zeriten, where you fill your water-skins. The whole road consists of pebbles. 7th. Ter'draderez, a \Yadi — arrival at the Aser. 8th. Etiddul, high sand-hills, where you arrive about noon. 9th. le'nheh, a Wadi — about two o'clock in the afternoon. 10th. Yanie'mma, a valley with water, where you arrive at Aser. 11th. Zermenetta, a village^arrival about the Aser. 12th. Avelimmid, a considerable place, where you arrive about one o'clock in the afternoon. GoBEK. Here begins a country of considerable extent, and inhabited by a warlike set of people, with whom the, Sultan of Sakatu is always waging war, generally w ithout success, and without being able to convert them to Islam. After their capital (Gober) had been destroyed by the Fellanis (the so-called Felhitahs), they built a new town* not far from Maradeh, with whose inhaiiitants they are intimately connected, by their common interest, as opposed to the Mohammedans ; and I was assured that the people of Gober had become more powerful than ever, and that there was very little probability of the Fellanis ever beinjj able to subject the country of Gober to their sway or to their creed. ' The other villages and small towns of Gober are as follows : — Aknija, Layem, Ginde'sem, Kelenzel, Me'ddoo, Te'llel, Deri, Mi'ge'shee, Uenidu, Ariwa, Kiillum, a considerable place, where the first Thobeli (chief ^ of the Touarik, of the tribe of the Avelimmiden, has his residence ; then the villages Te'nkii, Terzarui, where is the residence of the Thobeli of the name of Untilkin, Anehuni, Kadc'nbii, Tennehu, then a more considerable place called She'lbi, which has its Sultan by name Abulu, then the large place Tobeli, which likewise has its own Sultan, named Masari. [Tobeli, in the itinerary of the route from Agadcz to Sakatu, is mentioned as a place belonging to Adar.] Next follows another village called Fe'rriji, which has its own Sultan, el Hussen Ajillema ; then a place called Fadie, a village called Mararti/Y, and a place called Ladhn manor Ela- de'mmau, where the brother of Abd-el-Kadir, the Sultan of Agadez, whose name is Ittegama, is living; then a village called Tenfafi, and another called //f{/i:'(/- dua, and a place called Niiba, and another called Giru, and another called Termi, and a village called Kernufllam, and another called Mezdgyi, and a village called Ze'rdra. These are the villages and towns belonging to Gober. 13th day of your journey from Agadez to Maradeh. Having started from Avelimmiden as general- at sunrise, you arrive about the Aser in Ladcfmmu, the above mentioned village. 14th. Gudunnifznd, a village, where you arrive about one o'clock. 15th. Ahenii, a village, where you arrive at the Aser. 16th. And the next three days you travel over the Hammada, until on the 19th. You arrive at the end of your journey, the large town called Amrddeh, generally called Maradeh, which is under the authority of the Sultan ofKashnah, at least nominally. In going from Marddeh to Tdsaivu, a journey of two days, you pass the village called Teberi. IV. Route from Agadez to Blbuah, according to the Emghedesie, Eheii. 1st day. You start in general in the evening and sleep the first night at about half au hour's distance from the town, in the valley called Efi'ggC Eutdr'cU'mmet. * The former capital of Gober, as I learned afterwards, was called Gauiingazo, which was destroyed by the Sultan of Maradeh, not by the Fellanis. The name of the new town is Teberi. 30 Mission to Central Africa. 2n(l. Tintabdrak, a valley with water, where you arrive at the Aser, after having passed early in the morning the valley called Ainelu'li. 3rd. Bin^bhu, a valley with diim-trees, where you arrive a little before sunset. In the morning you keep for a while along the valley of Tintiiburak, after which your way lies over the rocks, passing through three different valleys before you arrive at the valley called Binebbuu, viz., Emuller, Arutiih, and the Wadi called Amdcgeru. 4th. TCiidaucn, a valley with water, where you arrive about one p.m. 5th. Atez^rket, after the Aser. All rocky ground. 6th. About Aser you encamp on the Haramada, consisting of pebbles. 7th. About the same time you encamp on a spot among the rocks, called Tazel. 8th. About sunset dismount on a spot between the rocks, called Efigayen. 9th. About two hours after sunset encamp between the rocks on a spot called D^hradu Ezilkker, from whence you start after a short rest. loth. And the four following days you travel night and day over the Hammada, where there are neither trees nor stones and scarcely any hashish, after which you arrive in the night of the 15th. At the village called Fdshi, where there are plenty of dates and two castles, one of which is in ruins, while the other is in good repair. IGth. About two hours after sunset you encamp on the Hammada, when, after two or threejhours' repose, you start again and continue the whole of 17th. When, after having dismounted and started again at the same time as the day before, you arrive in the evening at Bilmah, where, as well as in Kauwar, which is near to it, there are plenty of palm trees and of salt. The inhabitants of these places, as well as those of Fashi, are the Beraunis, as the Tibbuss are called by the people of Air. Moute from Agddez to Tuwdt, according to the learned Tuwdti, Abd- Allah. 1st day. You start in the afternoon and encamp the first night near the village called Elkhasds, in the fertile valley of the same name, distant from Agadez about three hours or a little more. 2nd. Tclowa, a valley, where you arrive about the Aser, after having passed on your road several valleys, separated, as is always the case in Air, by more or less elevated rocky ground. Early in the morning you cross the Wadi called Azal, then that called Tufatekin ; after which you pass about noon the celebrated valley, by name Aerinallera, after which, before you arrive at Telowa, there is still another Wadi to cross, which is called Iserseren. 3rd. Uklef, a valley, where there is water as well as in Telowa. This day you cross but one Wadi, called Asa, after which your road passes over a stony ground called Tinin, covered with pebbles. Arrive in the valley of Uklef at the time of the Aser. 4th. Makdm el Sheikh ben 'Abd el Kerime, a sort of mosque, generally known under the name of Msid SidiBagdadi. You arrive at this place about an hour before sunset, after having rested during the greatest heat near Auderas. In the morning your road passes for some time along the Wadi Uklef. 5th. Tiygedah, a valley with a deep well, where you arrive at the time of the Aser, after having passed in the morning the valley called Er'arar'r(fn — [the more accurate name of this Wadi is Er'iir'ar n' Di-ndemu] — and after having crossed a small mountain ridge, keeping along the Wadi Asadah, from which the Wadi Tiggedah is separated by rocky ground of small elevation. 6th. Encamp about sunset on rocky ground. Pass in the morning the valley called Tefarroct, then cross for some hours gravelly ground, with few large white projecting stones, after which you descend into the valley called Agaten, where, near to a well, you pass the hours of the greatest heat. 7th. 7eHS(/"^arrive before the Aser, 8th. Iferwdn, one of the finest valleys of Air, with a village of the same name, and plenty of date-trees bearing excellent fruit. Arrive at sunset, after having passed a number of small valleys called Ar'itam. Mission to Central Africa. 31 9th, Tidik. a valley, with a village of the same name, where you arrive before the Aser, after having passed the well called Neggaru. 10th. Siif mellel, a locality in the gravelly ground, over which your route lies to-day. Encamp at the time of the Aser. 11th. Zelil, an inhabited spot, where you arrive about one p.m., after having passed a Wadi called Agelendi, Fade, and Meratha. 12th. IJi Nemakheder, called by others Efinebakka, where you arrive at sunset, after having marched the whole day over a pebbly plain, called (by the Arabs) Shaebet el Ahir. 13th. You encamp on the Hammada after having crossed a rocky ground full of pebbles, and having passed a Wadi called Tiiiten. On the spot where you encamp you find a little hashish. 14th. \ou encamp, at one p.m., on a spot where there is the herbage called el hadu, after having crossed a stony g^'ound called by the people Timazgaren. 15th. Nesiva, a well not far to the W. of Asiii, where you arrive after the Aser, after having passed a valley called Tafsastau. 16th. Terdf, a locality on the Hammdda, where you encamp at the Aser. 1 7th, Tinterdnhe, a Wadi with a famous cavern called Aa'gidet en Nib, where you arrive at the Aser, proceeding always on the Hammiida. 18th. Encamp at sunset between sandhills called el 'Ark. 19th. Tagere'ra, a Wadi, where you arrive about one p.m., after having entered a mountainous tract called Aghil. 20th. JSl Ar'sill, a valley with water, where you arrive a little after noon, after having crossed a rough ground called Esfa mellesa. 21st. Te'kderen, a Wadi, where you arrive after the Aser. 22nd. Erarar'e'n, a Wadi, where you arrive at the time of the Aser, after having crossed a stony ground full of pebbles. 23rd. Zerzer, a Wadi with water — arrival at the Aser, after having passed a ground full of pebbles. 24th. Ifaek, a Wadi — arrival at Aser — ground the same. 25th. Wade el Inikdm, where you arrive about one o'clock p.m. Pebbles, 26th, Agnar, a plain enclosed by ridges — arrive at the Aser, after having kept first along the Wadi el Imkam, which leads into another Wadi called Temar'r'aset, from which you enter the plain, 27th. Turar'en, a Wadi where you encamp about the Aser, after having crossed another Wad! called Utiil, into which you descend from the gravelly soil, 28th. Tilak, a Wadi, where you arrive after the Aser, having crossed another Wadi called Eher'i. 29th. Temdssan^ggeti — arrive at the Aser, having passed through another Wadi, Tenar'rakeli. 30th. Enne'mmegel, a Wadi, where you encamp at sunset, the valley being rich in trees. To-day you have to pass two other valleys called Wadi Eresnuron and Tintaheli, — all these valleys being separated by an Hammada of an even surface without stones. 31st. Tehdrrdket, a Wadi commanded by a mountain called Turaeret, where you arrive about the Aser, Pebbles and stones. In Teharrflket you change your direction, the road turning here more to the N, on account of the mountainous tract to your right, 32nd, Hdggara, a Wadi with a well called Tehelehohet, where you arrive after the Aser, . 33rd. Suf mallei, another locality of the same name as that above mentioned, where you arrive about the Aser, after having passed two Wadis, of which the first is called Akdhau and the other Emmujiij. 34th. Sheikh Salah, with the surname Mela el akhsen, near to whose chapel, situated in the mountainous tract culled Ttseunu, there is water. You arrive a little before sunset, Hammada, 35th, Ter'dzzert, a little before sunset. Hammada. 36th, Emmesir, a Wadi, where you encamp after the Aser. In the morning you keep along a Wadi called Meniet, where there is a well, after which you pass another Wadi called Afisfes, while the last part of your road leads over the Hammada, consisting of gravel. 37th, Etgiilgulet, where you arrive at the time of the Aser. In the morning for 32 Mission to Central Africa. a while yovi keep along the Wadi Emmesir till yon reach that called Ardk, and, following it up, you pass two water-places, Sokiyah, and farther on one called El Hajar. 38th. Tdjemut, a Wadi, where you encamp before the Aser. 3'Jth. Koikoiut, a group of small valleys, where you encamp at one p.m. 40th. Giirdi, a Wadi", where you arrive a little before sunset, after having passed another Wadi called Terattiuiin, where there is water. 41st. The well in the long Wadi A(jmem(ir, which is reached about Aser. 42nd. Encamp about the same time in the same valley of Agmemdr. 43rd. Ensemith, where you arrive after the Aser. In the morning you still keep along the large valley of Agmemtir, until jou ascend a mountain ; from which you descend into another valley called Elbuttah, where there is a well called Tin e' Sli- man, proceeding along which valley you reach the place of your encampment. 44th. El U'uhah— you arrive at Aser after having passed on your road a depression called El Sha'db, from which you have to ascend the higher ground to a forest of great extent and full of brushwood. 45th. Insulah — about Aser ; first keeping in the forest, then ascending a little. On or near the road from Asiii or Nesua to Tuwut are found tlie follotviny tribes: — First, the Imrdth or Meratah, a very interesting and widely dispersed tribe. Next come the Sakomdren, a tribe very friendly to the Tuwatis, living to the N. of the road. Then the Tuwdh reg Tcitdk, the Kehiheiiut, the Ijrdii, a separate section of the Imrath, who drink from the water in Wadi Tajemut. To the N. of these, living near and within the boundaries of Tuwat, are the KcUmellcl, or, as they are likewise called, the Auelad Fakki, and, closely connected with them, the Tegdnsdkkel. Besides these two tribes of the Tuwjtrik there is in Tuwjit another tribe called Tiggehingdli.* VI. Rmxte from Agddez to MahntJt, according to the ICelferudn, Bainah, nnd continued as Jar as Timbuktu, according to tlie account of A bd- Allah. This road is not at present a caravan- road, but merely a path taken every year by the Razzias of the Kelferwaiv, in order to plunder the caravans on their road from Tuwat to Timbuktu, and it serves also for the encampments of the Avelim- miden. Bainah went this road 20 times. 1st day. Enudij young man dia 1 boderua ) is-aud / daughter I girl riiftaui annana kaina uncle dan kano n ubiina am biiba n kaina cousin Mission to Central Africa. 43 Ilaussa . Emghefies'e. English. Degrees of Kindred — {continued). jika aiyau grandson yayennlna enneseo aunts dengi ankerario relatives soriikko annir s-ord son-in-law an go ai baharhie bridegroom amiiria tanasduba bride maraiya aguger Parts of the Body. orphan kai banro head idu, pi. idunu mo (fo), pi. moeo eye kund, pi. kiinne hanga, pi. hangaka ear baki md mouth hakkori, pi. hakkora ashan, pi. ishenan tooth halshi ddlang tongue kununatu okiilmuden cheek-bone g6shi takannar front gashi habu hair gdme habe rd kabai oenne beard saje habe r<5 ne oenne whiskers kabba kabai chin hantshi nini nose kofofi n hantshi nina n fund nostrils fuska amoiinga face gmdi neck fof6 uaga lung s-iitshia ul heart mak(5 ger6 tagersut throat anta tdsa liver tsheki gungu body yeni kuji blood jijjia lengi nerves kashi binji, pi. biiijio bone bargd aduf marrow hanji idana intestines demtshe kanba [ gindi upper part of the arm forearm yasa, pi. yasotshi aded, pi. idddduan finger tdf palm kabbada damtshe akobd elbow kiifada ajir shoulder baya ^ banda back diua aburu posterior kusara tozuk the rectum borakkara gina 1 .^ , fmale 1 ge^'taU|f^.^^,^ katara tshfesokdn haunch hankarkari irardishan ribs tshignia tarema thigh kaft'a, pi. kafafu kd, pi. kdeo leg guia tiimar knee dombubu kd dd uiinni lower part of the leg tafi n kiiffa kd-nta taffa sole of the foot digge taramin derd heel yasotshi kd eunne dediia toes fata kiiru skin matatsho abiin dead body kas'utnta shinsher excrement 44 Mission to Central Africa. Haussa. Emgliedesie. English. Actions and Feelings, §'C. rai afuna life haifu;ita s'areji birth, birthday mutiia buiio death Raua edok burial koscheiia tassakoot grave asakkunsokd cradle beki adduba wedding-meal amr^ kigi marriage abini baiunhar business abiuna anhaia matter sarauta kokeu \fyc6 [ government 1 installation hali borujja amdha custom aiki goi service, occupatiou kiauta Ddse present bautii - amesh^ bondage salla gingeri feast, religious salla l(5ya gmgeri bdri great feast urgi hiir joke, amusement uiisa biir play raua gani dance gog^ anzel music murna giirgur mirth fiishi akoriid anger, wrath mafalki banderi dream magana kl word tarin aibai-ki meaning yab6 addiita honour, glory kiimmia ahaiii shame, infamy ban kali [amaijtaieti mind, intellect diinka aiiban rosd ? will tunaua banguoi memory sani dadi koreme elafia peace fiidda esok quarrel fama bore' Inka 's"6k cm(?gg( ?r single combat yaki oongii war, expedition tschiua dori illness masasera urki fever ztnzaua badani small-pox yanki adiingua wound nuigaui siifari medicine schascbaua kekcs lame Animah, tattooing bissaschd ) dabobi 1 tshima-raua domestic animals rakomi, pi. a yot'o, pi. the same camel tagua yot'o iiai she -camel dan tagoe Silka young camel gi'rki ufarak herd of camels sa, pi. sbano liaui, pi. hauio ox Si'mia r'oi cow takerkcri as-agdri ox of burden doki', pi. dauukkai ban', pi. bario horse jaki, pi. jauukkai fiirka, pi. farkaio ass, donkey jaka fiirka uai female ass al fiidda r a afakkaran mule rago, pi. ragona figi, pi. figio wether, ram tiimkia, pi. tuniaki aliikka, pi. telco sheep Mission to Central Africa. 45 IJaussa. Emghedesie. Tame Animals — {continued) . Englisli. akuta, pi. auaki hankeni, pi. haukeuio goat biins'uru as-dlak he-goat : kursana marekf tariit she-calf aru he-calf kare hanshi dog miisshe mush raru male cat keuua a musa miish Wild Animals. cat namendaua gengen hamu wild animals beriiua asu'nked gazel mareia tas' inked a larger species s-orno tamarroat hare nianyaua miish fox dilla elfdki jackal 1 s-aki, pi. s'akona jabe n daua baba bere, pi. babau lion gengi n haia king of the desert jriua ham roberq elephant ueluaiji gengi n haui ■wild buifalo rakomi n daua ge'njji n yoes giraffe damiissa tshekhsar? uaijak? leopard kiira tas-uri hyena beri auerkit, pi. tirkidda Birds. monkey suns'u ke'rau, pi. keraua bird kas"a, pi. kaji gurango, pi. gurangaid fowl kiirtshia arukide wild dove tentiibara teddabdr pigeon S'ab6 taliat guinea-hen ? fakara kerau partridge tiituni biitutu hoopoe maiki ajader eagle agulii alroriib vulture jimmenii tarai tarai Insects and Reptiles, ostrich kuj6, pi. kuda hameni — is fly sabbero tad us mosquito kudii n s'limmua hammeni, pi. — is bees tshiruaka modedukku ? siiza taiituf worm keiltshi tancglit ant koiiiii noni flea kolkoto gani lice kadangerd rantalla lizard matshiyi gdnshi serpent koniima dai Parts of Animals. scorpion litshia tamakkal tail kafu, pi. kafone tand, pi. — oe horn sail kd trace, footstep gesii ginda habii mane fufilke furaii, pi. furaueu wing musae asiifuna corpse kashi, tos"6ro kaka excrements, dung >-4S/Y* 46 Mission to Central Africa. kasa t(5nere diitshi, dtrntsu kura sauni tiiddu kogo n dutshi konima gulbi ) mogeji n ruaj idanu u riia rijia rafi diiyi daua itshe, pi. itatshe) ittitua ) seua n itshe sebga, pi. semaji kiinnua jaien itatua fure irii goreba abisga talha 1 adduaj graffen kriinka tshiaua or hakkl g6na hatshi g^ro daua shinkafTa gane giinna ja n gunna mia koriish korush deblno yaieu goreba abinshi tshiuia rua tiio tubdni u^na \{^\r,U:'- fiakilso s'limmua raadera n6no Emghedesie. English. Land and Water. gendii earth, country ararar bebbau plain, waste tanji, pi. taujio stone, rock talammedet sand abakka dust tauji kaina hill ^gef mountain gusu pass, defile, narrows as'as'il valley, bed of a torrent river 1 water-channel ars-ar moes sources bangu afarak well ge'ngi desert tugujio wilderness, forest Vegetables, &c. tuguji, pi.— is ; tree [ trees, plants ikeuan root hiiuga, pi. hangaid branch tugiiji n hangaio foliage tugiiji n is-s-iio fruits koraiyo blossom, flower bibbeo seed takkuai doom tds-ak suwak tabdra tuiha tagalelli't ? dand ? sdbu hashish, herbage fari, pi. fario garden haini victuals haiui bibi ghussub iibora ghafiil md rice k;i vegetables kiiukana melon tagale'Ue wild melon haei molukhia korush korush cucumber garuai date tokkoi eu is'S'eo fruits of the doom-tree Food and Cookery. uanha food, aliments ari water tdsu bas-een haiangoi dish prepared of beans mdsa sort of cakes, pr. of ghus- sub goi in haia sort of cakes, pr. of wheat da ai honey hiia fresh milk iu sour milk Mission to Central Africa. 47 Hausiia. Emghedesie. English. Food and Cookery — {continued). gia motd sort of intoxicating bever- mai fari gl korai age butter tshikd gdshi cheese naama hiimu meat kills kord dried meat rdmo dshem broth, soup koi gdngori egg gisherf kiri salt barkono indahiir nummoeo pepper (black) kanua s6so natron koUi tas"er coUyrium fura kaul a beverage made of crude ghussub etatshi tngfijio firewood garuashi n uta dengid fii-e-coals tokonia kusu kitchen-pot marufi fendii cover madaiiki dokiinha handle, ear akoshi tu plate of wood, &c. kullia gasu drinking-bowl turmi hamberu mortar for pounding the ghussub taMria haegi pounder lildde dmola large wooden spoon for drinking tshakalu k^rau spoon for eating jirgi aglel Apparel. large wooden bowl for water- ing the animals tofa 1 rlgaj tiibbelu ■ dress coloured shirt from Sudan toggua tiibbelu kaina short shirt ul'ndu urdii trowsers fula fiigla cap nedi (baki) tdbai black cotton cloth wound round the face rauani hauaoga cotton cloth, handkerchief, shawl Ziinui sukumba light loose garment thrown over the riga ul'lki adegcg ; bonunnu apron of leather worn round the loins takelmd tagraid sandals sobbilto sort of leather stockings leia tshira small leather pockets worn round the neck cljihu anerjiif pocket talkhdtu antalkhiltu necklace s'obd kambciha, leiigi ring duiitsu tanjio pearls karilu isun dirang ring Avorn round the arm kiirii Q kaffa guru Houses, dec. ring worn round the leg gan', pi. gariirua kdra, pi. koraid town ariua quarter, ward kauia kdra kaina village 48 Mission to Central Africa. Ilaussa. Emgliedesie. Houses, etc. — (continued] English. ). g!da hogu house k(5si hoged hut of hashish ftlda hogu b6r6 palace l(5ma korai tent daki sbigi'ffa room riiufti tajerd shop bissa gid a soro nbenfo roof, terrace sor6 beue upper story, tower daki n sor6 sbigi'fiFa n bene terrace- room tsakiin gida gerc ger^ ; or, hogu n nam- court-yard mes banga n birni agajir town-wall jokkotdta pinnacles kdfa hiigumme Furniture. gate, door gadd kardrar bedstead taberma asala mat kilishi aberuk carpet uka tshdlak knife aski ki'ab razor bdtta te'lbuttan box bdtteo boxes madobi ; matsaukatshi sokhdieea looking-glass ni61o danai Arms. sort of violin kans-akkeli takobi takoba v sword uka tshdlak dagger kubd hogii sheath, scabbard rataya dokiinha sword-belt haniin bangro hilt mdshi y^gi spear, lauce kehia tand bow bakd tagans'd arrow kori kori quiver girkua korei shield shirdi gdri saddle shirdi n doki gari bar' oenne horse-saddle mashi n fidii aselis shabrack lekdffa tdmar stirrup les-:iini ar'aba bridle karaniaua anbairi n gurid bells attached to the neck of the horse or camel akomar nimbdba saddle of a donkey Implements. tanfassfia anniira s'ard elmdkashi mabodl makobll sendd s'ummsijia garsd tshemides kerkdbu ndna biindu alauak needle thread scissors key lock stick whip Mission to Central Africa. 49 Haussa. Emgliedesie. English. Implements- -(continued.) fertana hoe haiua guni plough auartckk i 1 tongs miko I gurti ( sledge-hammer kugia ) hook-plough laiij^ subu ndu nb<5ha 1 chopping-knife giitari tds-uf axe, hatchet egia karf6 rope egia n kdba kongo rope made of the leaves of the doom-tree sanfo s'anfo pannier, basket yt'ka el kurrus bag of leather raga elminje'f net selka { ablak water-skin ameital provisions-skin takrufa takenif a bag made of the leaves of the doom -tree gugii gug.i bucket of leather serka asasser chain kiisa tshikaffaten nail Metals and Articles of Commerce. haiia tefiirki tiirba hinniberi [ road, way 1 path fatautshi aus ulu journey guseri amittel provisions airi aier caravan from the south takeref takeref caravan from the north kaya kaya luggage merchandise kurdi karba nagnrio jeni'kate Sgs } purchase with komshe kumiis the pack, bale sandd bundu piece (of cloth, &c.) riimta naraye asbenis borrowing bi ahangani credit, debt riba rubbakh gain, profit sindria firag gold as-erfa as-uruf silver karfi guru iron ja n karfi gurii kiddd copper ers^s eldem lead dclma gani zinc hadid ess^ni iron-plate gdshi bdbu wool iibdega fari gane cotton alkamara korai cambric kcirnu korun-koriin fine coloured leather kirgi kuru bullock's hide kaya n kamshi tallat essence, perfume hauri n giua giu n eshenan elephant's teeth donko I'u wax maauni tautuf scales, weight sail ke ell 50 Mission to Central Africa. Haussa. irri n mo tan e serki babii n serki bdban serki serki n turaiia serki n kasua boba n gida obd n gi'ji ud n gi'ji baua, pi. bai shushau serki n gando maaiki da n gari mutum n k'a uge ba-ture, pi. turaua abokl bakd tauai mai-kiaii faraiita raa-halbi raakami ii ki'fi monomi tajeri \ maidvikiaj mai-tiiUa ma-fataiitshi ma-keri me-di'mki me-kc'lagai me-takclme mai-gmni mai-r6ko farkura gerdi mai-s*eunani muna-feki rudi j bardu / mai-Siita J miifasa damre doka dogali karanta-ladtin rabbori tas'onia emosa motshi duukuli kusserua Emghedesie. Knglisli. Conditions in Life. bores n keui nutioii, tribe, set of people kokoi master kokoi-berd Sultan, king kokoi kaina chief of the eunuchs kokoi geregerc the Kaid of the Arabs,.prop. the master of the country and tagas-a the Kaid of the Imrstd jobii n kokoi judge of the-market hog6 n berd landlord ankoi father of the family anguoi landlady baina, pi. bainco slave aroi hai son of a freed slave afarin kokoi master of the slaves hogu n a-goi servant kora n iss-e countryman gengi n bero stranger el r'arab the Arab, the white man ankere friend amagar guest ikneua, pi. ikneuenyo enemy kut-koi herdsman koi ge'ngi sportsman bir-koi marksman ajeni kifi fisherman akoi genda peasant elmang-koi merchant dir-koi retail dealer akkoi Siidan traveller aenet (Targh.) blacksmith tat;ib-koi tailor kurii nge koi saddler tar'mu koi shoemaker hogii nge koi builder, architect kinibo-koi beggar ■waiyd strumpet gonshinshi'ii-koi juggler s-iikbkoi wrangler elmonufek concealer s-e-koi, pi. s'ekoaieu thief kom-koien highway robber hi'gi prisoner d6k • executioner baina hangman karang hire Miscellaneous. ' af6 number, numerals maisataI61o history, tale hamn'io motion nuirmur noise kiinkuna ball, spherical form tdr'mur angle Mission to Central Africa. 51 Haussa. Kmghedei >ie. Knjjlisli. Verbs. guddumaua ha help ! giilFara uarai darii give place ! sonhai fene hai I am born ina-da rai a-funa I live nai sufa ai-jian I grow old ina amre amhck I marry nai da ai-da n is-s-e' I beget, procreate 7ia-haifo ai-hai I bring forth na-mutu ai-bu I die na-ga ni ai-gona I see ina-yi ammau I hear dubi imp. hassai look, imp. ilia shauraiia duuue hanga I hark na-tshe ai-hur I say, tell naamsa ai jini I listen, answer uai kurum ai riu rai, imp. danrai am silent ina tshi akoi ua / eat na-diindana ai-dus I taste na-koshi mantu I am satiated in-sha anni'n, pf. araidaum I drink na-bogu ai-bokutta I am drunken ina guddu n daua addan gungii n s'uru / ease nature, prop. I hasten into the bush ina kashe addan kaka I evacuate ina fitsare hangara I make water nai amai ayer I vomit nai jebi ai ua I perspire ina bertshi nike kontshe ai kani I sleep am sleeping ina tashi natseia dede } ai tunii r I rise stand upright ina fitto ai fon6kete / walk, go out ina S'akka ai-te I come na-shigga ai hiir, imp. nohur I come in, penetrate na-taf 1 \ 1 ai koi \ I set out, start ni-s"ani travel na-godii ai-S'oru I hasten, run, escape uai kusa ai mankete I come near, approach ina giirgusa mannang I draw near ni niisa akoi, pi. ai to kate I arrive ni-komo ai kate I return na-batshi ai dere I lose my way na-gaji ai fargan I am fatigued ni-tseia kai imp. I stop, halt ina-futaua asiinfu I rest na jmgena goro I lean back nauarki ai gode I recover ina-s6 ai bara I will, I wish ina-s6 en-sea ai bara ndai I will buy ni ia araida I can, am able na-fi ai-bissan I am better, a greater per- son (than) ina yirda ai gisha I am persuaded ni-tuna a-hiinguoi I remember nimeida hankali yeji'taieti I forget na-mautshi ai jinak I take care, pay attention na-saba ai jeiide I am accustomed na-sani ai bai / know e2 52 Missio}} to Central Africa. uia-yi ina koiua ina koia masa ni ina kedaia na-kr;ltu ina ruhbutu ina iusiilla nai ri'nsua ina tsoro inayiii tshio nai fushi nai tausai uai miirna ina daria ina kuka ina uaka ina urgi na tuma ina raua na-fadi iua-da ni-ba (ka iua kara nama'israaka — kau nini as-a ni danki ni kama ina seki na sabkas ni nikarba na riki nai ne'ma ina bi'dda ninia s'ani ni S'amo ni kora ni masa-sata ni nabatas ni ina aiko ina k.iirra nai isbi uatambaea ina roko na godda ) ina uilna ) ina bi narima (babiin serki na-bia ua-gbada ina jiranKa affai siiekr nai laefi ma hanna na gafdria niaka ina rddda Emghedesie. Knglish. : Verbs— (continued). amman 1 understand a-jende I learn a-jenda se I teach you a-keb I reckon, count a-karoi I read ai kiteb I write ai gingeri I pray (to God) ai je I swear ahambari I am a frightened ammadoresC-n I am sorry, sad, sick ai fus I am angi-y aime-tiimma I compassionate aibarbere'o / am vierry, glad ai giirgur I laugh a-hiau I shed tears ii-ddun I cry a-hiir I make a joke, I play a-sad I spring a-gani I dance ai kang Ifall ai me I have, possess nitten (ara'i I give ai tunto I give more, add ai yeji nesi I return you atte s-auketen I fetch, bring sura (nga I put down doka fnga I raise, lift atte jina (nga I lay hold (of), catch shiiua (nga I let loose, let go s'umbu (nda I take down, unburden attiji-nikketen I receive, get atte kiimba I hold fast ai hiirketen I search, seek maugiiru I look for raidakoi nukkuoi I find igata (nga I go on, lead on, lead away attesaja (nga I steal you ai derender / lose nidadaukatanga I send akiaua(ni I call, call for ai garanga I meet ai banda(ni I ask atfqii'(ni I beg akiaber nesi' I show ahanga ni I follow angoka (kokoi bar a 1 am responsible (to the Sultan) ai fer / obcji manenenda I waste, violate, infringe abatuni I am ready, wait for you raaufergra I thank you I'nsa kakandere I offend, trespass ai giinga I forbid, prevent ai soruf nesi I forgive you uanen liamu I calumniate, insinuate Mission to Central Africa. 53 na biigga ni kashi na-yanki suna-yaiki suntshe naba ts-oro ya fore, 3rd p. nil rama masada ni-t^ya nai riinguma nai ne'ggari tai-e dak& eni makarakia ni-tasas na bisneshi Ilia katshia S"ani musaia musaia meni uia nasou nia nase'is na ramta ni ramta niba da kurdi bi naba shi (maka) na-f^ra nauanye nai yc'la na siibas ni niltsbaffe na damre na bode nahalbi na du'rkusa ina biigga ina sohi'i ina kuskureua ina bashe kuskureua s'&ne kaura S'ane litsheua ina ketare nia enhau ina sebka ina siisab6 ni ina io inasa kiiyena ina inyado na-tube nai(shi na-gerta na-share ina uonke ina kekashe ina shenye ina daffa ina hassa(uta Emghedesie. Verbs — (continued). ai bokiitta akoi ianga kokeu ulbu ai diimbua uonguanga irharanga ai uasa hamberi goingi (kokoi attebana-nesesi doka nga irkai endorrefu irredau haguma attedumni attetuenunda ai fika nga ai yoelli akkof barai odcasi ai de katanga clei(nda ai fojia(nga akkoi s'obuennit atteiian nagrio meraka)agnha adere ai shinshi mardeben ai batiinni ai muna nga ai jina nga albana nga ai faera nga birauga ai segin ai bokiitta sarai biranga ; akumanga indabirauga ; asukku- niiinga akkoi tenii akkoi yokai ai sat bari6)egang snimb(i ne s'lmbiikkate aibara ariga addeniin bango tiingarkoi aikaianga aidani'(nga aigoeii nga ai haba ai hi mm i a nga ai-kok, imp. akok ai dani nga ai hind nga ai foniis (hor'u English. I beat / hill the Sultan kills I wound they are at war they are victorious I punish the Sultan punishes I take vengeance on you for / assist I embrace I do good to you, treat you well I conduct you I awake I bury I circumcise I exchange, barter I buy I sell I borrow I lend I pay I owe (you / begin I finish I wait I throw I catch, take / bind I loose, untie, open I aim, take my aim at I kneel down I shoot, let fly, discharge I pierce, stab I miss my throw, the mark I do not miss I change my spot, dwelling place I pass by I cross (a mountain I mount I dismount I descend I (am about to) swim I dress I dress stately, put on full dress I undress /make, do ^^ I arrange I clean I wash I dry I air, put into the sun I cook I allume, kindle, light 54 Mission to Central Africa. ina fiin'i ni kashi ) 111 tuffi J na koiii na kario ni suba. ina yuia ni jirgitta na ja riia niba sha iukaffa(laema inkadda(. . . ni ina jinni (kasa ni ina shibka na shibkaua itshe ina tiira nabisni nasara etatshe ni nafede(shi rufe serkafo ina dilkka ina nika ina dama ina dimki ina yanka niatshag^ niruba ni auna na saka na rinna shi — yakoma — shina so — ya kammata — ya fi — akkoi riba — yai-sa shike-nan — ya-kari Emghedesie. Verbs — (continued). kaui daba nga ai kiirkur ai bakii nga imp. attiiinana nga ammo (n an' dan a nga aisakkatari ai naui (yoco taetea nga kakabii nga afasga nda fika nga monfngi tugdjio ashedauiugi afiki ngi akosi ngi koi inda nga addabd nga akkainehin jeda addiit afufii akurba nga tatab dumbu anga koratanga yebena uga nesa nga ni danrai ai si'lbis arie aid aibara uga atakinda nga abesa nga ariibbakh abara ato inganoda aben English. I blow, blow up I put out, extinguish I burn I break, destroy I pour in I pour out I turn over, upside down I draw water I give to drink I pitch (the tent I take down ( . . . I cultivate, till I sow I plant a tree I gather, gather in, reap I store up, prop. I bury, hide iu the ground I cut wood I flay, strip off the skin I shut I lock up I pound I grind I stir up I sew I cut I rend, tear asunde r I divide, share I measure, weigh I weave I dye it does become it must it is worth it is better it is useful it is enough that is settled, finished it is at an end, consumed Phrases. guserimmo suu-kari irrenemmetdl abdn our provisions are gone — akkoi abeira there is, I have — babu ashia nga there is none, I have not — ko akkoishi kabara perhaps there may be, it is possible yaki yatshe aiuangu the victory is gained, the war devours ya faso afakkod the battle is lost, the war is thrown back — shina tshio addori — is sick — ya-batshi akhas^ra — is spoiled — ya-nerki amegadi — does melt — yayi doi auimmaia i iga — does stink — shin a da kamsh ahumbu — has a nice smell — ya shiggi ahiir the rain) comes in Mission to Central Africa. 55 Emghedesie. Phrases — (continued). rua ya shiggi da auen- nangida ari hurketehogii rokuna auennanDaua naka nasa memeianga anguanc anguanaiki namu naku arundiienni induenni nasu rua) shinaguddu ingoenne — as'urti itshe) shina fi'ta — akhonu — yanona tokona baynona ba — ahiud almere anhina — yci sefii ait- — ya tafasa anas — ya fiira a-fonus rana) taf ita uenu houuketi rana) ta adi uenu kang — shanagi — atunu — shina-kerkaru — shinakcira — ayaketen — ahian — shina-ruori — atiisset — shinahabshi — atiisset — shina-kiwo — akut — shina-yin koi — yabaifo ina da rakoma biu — addan gungori — hai aima-yoe inka kaaa da gida neggeri aime hogu gum a auennan mutum shinada aro boru amu ban' aniig- doki neggeri munadaguseri deua guma irremaia amutel babo kuu&da serki maigaskia sunuda dukia tari auennan matshe ta na da tshiko tana so taseisshi nagani rakoma tari hagani auennan jimmena ya-gani kasa n Borno mu nga ni abokinka kii ngani baba n serki su ngani s'akona tari ni ba ka rauani neggari kai kabd ni sdnia fodu sofo) shi ba masa bai okd matshe ta bdni tshiko biu English. the water penetrates into this house this is mine ~ thine '- his mu mu n kdma girki'nka aijiuin indingyoeo kukuna ramta mona s-ambar oku muma- isma kushi da Sinder ni ina bugga nka kai kabuggani indes'ibnet I'rresi mitekal ins'a irre yiokkai Smder ni bukku s'urai attebukkutui yours theirs irremai kokoi guma irremai elma'm ar wai ame gashi de ocnne abara n donde niiggeno yueo babo aigomi tarai tarai ro boru aguna genda Borno irre gonii irri'nkere irre gona kokoi bere irre gona baba-bere' babo nitten are tobe guma atten tlni hau 'tftki iirjono) atten dsi baina 'I'ns'a wai ro anne rai gashi I'nka the water) is running the tree) grows the fruit) is ripe ) is not yet ripe, is unripe it becomes cold it boils it bums the sun) rises ) sets the bird) is flying the hen) cackles the animal) cries, bleats, &c. the lion) roars the dog) is barking the animal) is feeding — is laying eggs — brings forth young ones / have two camels thou hast a nice horse this man has a nice horse we have plenty of pro- visions You have a just master ■ they have plenty of money this woman has cheese (which) she wants to sell / see many camels you see this ostrich he has seen Borno we have seen your friend you have seen the Sultan they have seen many lions / give you a fine kerchief thou givest me four cows the Sheikh) he gave him three slaves this woman {she) gives me three cheeses we take from you your camels lend us 3000 (cowries), we will return you them in Sinder / beat thee thou beatest me 56 Mission to Central Africa. Haussa. Emgliedesie. Phrases — (continued.) English. auennan mutum shina are r6 abiikkutu wai ro this man is beating that. buggata woman muna buggiinsu irri bukkat ingi we beat them ku kuna bugga mu ingi bukkat aeri you beat us su suna bugga nta I'ugidan bukkut dnga Pronouns. the;/ beat her nia arai(da I kai [ne(da]kia thou shi inga(da he ta anga(da she ma irre(da we ku indu(da you su ingi(da Cardinal Numbers. they daea afo 1 bin ayi'nka 2 okti ayins-a 3 fodii ataki 4 bier hamsa 5 shidda sitta 6 bokoi sabd 7 tdkus temanie 8 t£lra tshcsora ' 9 goraa gashera 10 goma sha daea giishera ki'nji f6 11 goma sha bin gashera kmji-ihka 12 goma sha tara ascheriro afo 'shi (prop, ashia) 19 asherin asherin 20 asherin da tiira telatin dfo'shi 29 ttlatin ttlatin 30 te'latin da daea te'latin kinji fo 31 te latin da tara arbaein afo 'shi' 39 arbaein arbaein 40 arbaein da daea arbaein kinji fo 41 arbaein da tara hamsin afo 'shi 49 hamsin hamsin 50 hamsin da daea hamsin kinji fo 51 hamsin da tiira setti'n afo 'shi 59 settin settin 60 sebaein sebaein 70 sebaein da daea sebaein kinji fd 71 sebaein da tdra temanin afo 'shi 79 tcmanin temanin 80 temanin da daea tdmanin kinji fd 81 temanin da tara tesaein afo shi 89 tesaein tesaein 90 tesaein da daea tesaein ki'nji fd 91 tesaein da tara miet afo 'shi 99 ko dari daea btibu dari uiiet 100 s'ongii debii-s-arabar agi 1000 fc-ambar goma s'ambar gashera 10,000 ■i'dmbar dan' s'dmbar dari 100,000 Mission to Central Africa. 57 Haussa. nafari nabaia na okii na fodii na bi'er na shi'dda nabokoi na tukus na tara nagoma nashadaea naasherin nabaya hanzi dufFu dayi ) daua i shebkakaua safi seui dogo dagirma \ babii J karami 'k kananne / sofo sabo nasa suriifi detshau kajere dafadi mas'utshe deua tari diikka sashe sashe u sashe na biu rage tsheke babu komi kadiinna kiisa da-nisa ncggeri ) da-kiau J mugo da kiirfi bashe da kiirfi lafia tshio sunyankini da siitshia tsori) dakiau u fiiska mogu u fuska Emghedesie. English. Ordinal Numbers. isaren the first ahinkaueni the second ahins'aueni the third ataki auenni the fourth hamsauenni the fifth sittauenni the sixtli sebaraiienni the seventh temanieaiienni the eighth tcsarauenni the ninth r'asheraeiinni the tenth ashera kinji fdenni the eleventh asherindcde the twentieth bandaiienni the last Adjectives. taffo clear kubai dark gengi desert wild farindaro cultivated komd warm yeni cold kuku high bcre 1 great, large, extensive great kaina small, little, young arjond old taliet new, young angueni elder bangu deep akukii long, high adiingura short afaet wide, spacious kitta tight, close babd much, many ka whole, all gere half gere n gere quarter, fourth ahinka-uiinne more jebanga less tonanga full haikashen empty, there is none kdtaraa few maud near amur far aguma good, fine nice futii bad ammegabi strong anmegiibi weak, frail elrafia safe, in good health ddri ill idunbarai wounded, 1 am indaul courageous hiimbarf coward, timid indeinmd guma pretty, handsome inaufutii ugly 58 Mission to Central Africa. Ilaussa. tshio n s'utshia yungua nia yuDgua kishi n riia da hdnkali bashe mai kukari iiigu mai haushi mai yeuenroko mogu n s'utshia mai giiskia da-karia hassada da-kiauta basche sadaka magadi dalili ma-aiki ya-gaji ma-kafo kurma bashe magana dungii nofi mai kurdi taliikka shinada mata bache dash'i mata tamro ta na da tsheki ya siiba ya rima da naui basche da uia detshada bache dauia da-dama ma-maki gaskia karia ji'kake kekiishase taiirai gurbi tuddu dedo kerkatatshe keiiaye mai kiisseri anona dandne dene tsheke babu komi daeyana tard Emghedesie. Adjectives — (continued). ulin duri here iii dadcn here flit, ai fdt indataieti annemai taieti amai tiiufa an-nebesuk akiirteni nikke fojembo lilfutu ammai kimi tan-rari uanhamu amai tanafo anme tanafo tshikotaua kaber(5u bara addalil amai-gooi afergnir assiigguna asummau asekki kebako hanshi elman-koi talak ; annemai haika amme uai anemai uai bard amai giingu ajende agoka atshing an-itshi'ug } ageb I > auege'b | elmussala kimi tdn-rali mosanemo kekasashe ashendi as'iis'il eg6f eyigidda alanghaii aiag"le tiigmur abina I atai I tonunga haikashcn afo irhanga English. sad, mournful hungry I am hungry thirsty, I am prudent, clever imprudent clever, skiltul stupid, foolish impudent, bold-faced importunate malicious, cruel honest, true, just false jealous, envious liberal, generous illiberal charitable ambitious humble, submissive active, industrious weary (he is blind deaf dumb, mute lame naked rich poor married (he is unmarried with child (she is accustomed (he responsible (he heavy li-ht difficult dear easy cheap wonderful true false humid dry hard, dry hollow, concave convex straight, direct curved round angular ready, ripe unripe green full empty alone ' together Mission to Central Africa- 59 Haussa. Emghedes'e. Adjectives — (continued). English. da-kaifi ai-uel sharp da dauda amai jibi dirty bashe da dauda anemai jibi clean errafia errafiar fine fan' koral white baki bibi black rauea erara yellow ja kidde red deffoa siibu blue tshangua firiji green e'lkas ^Igas green dddi kand sweet d^tshi hornd bitter da gisheri kiri salt, briny tshami amdt sour dedji akornd Pronouns. strong, well seasoned uonnan ard this ueatshan ardssen that udni a certain (m. tamendem a certain (f. kaua honiinnu somebody uanndue maaiki who uoddanda udddan indanga that, which me baki what bar harrasdn also, even, himself ko onne ma-hdka every one da junansu endenkeraien amongst each other osu-osu afuyo-afdyo some, others naua mergi Adverbs. how much dagandn eng6ffo here dagatshdn affoe-ussen there dtima kamba aro-issiia to the right haniin hogii kamba aucnni to the left kabd kdngo straight on ina mananga where urinda ddro where (rel. bi'ssa bdiie on, over kc'rkashd kidd under kabd ijinanga opposite bc'lya biinda behind ketare sat-anga on the other side kus;l da mand by, by the side, close to tsaka(n gerdgerd interior, in tshikl(u aiiimas between, among uje ti'irar outside ktiuaie Idngusu round, round about yens-u inarda now yautshe tokoua • el mdre just now, instantly not yet kiillum kiilluin every day dafiUi is'iireu before, once sodaea kae fo one time 60 Mission to Central Africa. koi yaushi dadai yaushi so iiaua kak^ kakil kaki kamsin d^de da-s6nsa da ktirfi, tilis tard da baslii da shi hiikkana to mm bahakkana domd domm mas'il sanu sanu kadan kadan Emghedesie. Adverbs — (continued). aldka kala me'nde fo alar-fo ingi marg^ maso sandiu kiu4 asauen da(ro I'gedd indcmbara nittedanmga de gdli irhanga mefandan annemai anga minjida indasa anneki manjida mikinga arom moga tamba mdsu kaina kaiua English. sometimes, always never when how often how how do you do as like spontaneously by force together with without so, in such a way yes, well no, not so why because speedily, immediately slowly, gently, by degrees slowly THE PRODIGAL SON. Luke Haussa. Akkoi wonni mutiim shi na da yaya biu. 12. karami tshiki nsu yatshe da obd, bani rabi ndukia da ya fdda gareni. da ya rdba masu dukia-su. 13. baya koauiiki babu deua karami da ya tara abiibua diikka yatafi gari danisa nan ya uatshe dukia su yayin shahilitshi. 14. da ya gbada dukka akkoi baba n yungua ga gari nan, da ya fara rashi. 15. da ya taf i yilyi sufari kiinsa ga uonni mutiim na gari niiu da ya aika sa tshiki n gonaki sa shiyi kiwo u gurustinai. 16. shina guri shitshika tshiki nsa da yayen doraua uod da gurusiinai su katshi. 1 7. da ya-k(5mo gakansa yatshd baua nana na obilna, sunK. da masa tari, am- mani ina namutu da yungua. 18. ni itashi ni itafi ga obdna ni itshe dashi oba nayi suuiifi ga Alia da gaba garcka. 19. ba n kiimma kammata ba akyirra ni da uka kayini daea ga baruii nka. 20. yatashi yasakka ga oba nsa da shike nlsa oba nsa yaga uasa yayi tausai yayi giidda ya fadi ga uya nsa ya ledsasa. Emghedesie. Bord fd bar^nnu amai iss'e 'inka. kaina bari ngi babd keni. narai elma nih gdre is'e kandga. ajabin nisa il md. bauda niigguma kaina ashidda uhajc' ka akkoi kdra n mord enndda ase saein elmd. ga haiyishianga asaese il ma, haere bebe ahanganga kora jikona gashiiishi gianis's'e akkoi kdra-fdkona adiinna- afdso sdfari borefd kora jiienni adauanga anfari kuna an kdtid el khansir. ahiir antdnnan gungu en dal elrarabaro en is-s"eo iua el khaus'ir inhdniu annis'iingais'S'e yakat(5n anbangroscn. baena angiieni anbaban im mai wuababd, ai boniin da haere. astondn koi ambdba dard, nibbara niingua mefdnda aiden as'cniib irrin koi dard iudenan mangina. isukkoi keroi sendan en is'S"ed ning ni jarai sende fd nem bained kuna. akkoi atambdba dard, amiir ambaba gonanga aniau eutausdsi as'oru akauau anginda kuud aloakdnga. Mission to Central Africa. 61 Ilaussa. 21. amma da ya tshe da shi obil nayi suniifi ga Allah da gaba garelva ba n kiimma kainmiita ba akyirra ni da nka ba. 22. amma oba yatshe da barud nsa, ku kau riga neggeri, kusa masa da ku sa masa sol)e ga faritshi nsa da takelme da kafafu nsa. 23. kukau kibbatatshe maraki ku kashi shi da mutshi mu yi murna. 24. dong wouga ddna ya mutu da yayi rai kiimma da yagbatshe da anganeshi da suka fara murna. 25. amma ua uasa shinatshlki n naki' da yakdmo yayi kusa da gida ya ji bushe-bushe da raua. 2G. da ja kyirra daea ga barua, ya tam- baea sa mi uoddan ga abubua akkoi. 27. amma ya tshe da shi kane nka yasakka da oba ka ya kashi kibbatat- she marekidong ya sama sa da lafia. 28. amma yayi fiishi da ba shina s6 yashigga ba. oba nsa fa ya fitto ya kjirra shi. 29. amma yaamsa yatshe daobansa* dubi', shiekaru nana inaji maka barantaka dadai inagbada duka nka ba kabaui da n akuia ba dong enyi murna da abokai ua. 30. amma uonnan da nka uonda ya gbdda dukiiika ga fariknna ya sakka ha ka shi ma sa kibbatatshe mareki. 31. amma ya tshe da shi. da' kana tar^ da ni da komi nana uaka ne. 32. amma ya kainmata yi murna da gudda, doDg kane nka shi ya mutu da yayi rai kiimma da ya gbada da anganeshi. Emffhedesie. I's'S'e kena se aidenu as'enob ambilbad irrinkoi daro I'ndenan mangiua dard' isiikkoi keroi saudiin en iss'eo. baba kenan bainese- S'au kete tubbulu guma dtinasd tiibbulu danase anaded kona lengi danase tagmes an keio- kuna. S'aukete haul ro guma oianga irrin uai irrin kiiluf. annes abiin amma afuna* ga dere gona nga ishinshi kiiluf. am bere bara fare kuna ga yakate hogii n gere ammo funiis funus yose inde'g- gaini. akiau kata baina ahandanga mi kioki aroha. bainakena se* ankaina nin kai nete nim baba aui aru maniute danga kuma nga el rafia. amniau miirmurse asuk kul anhur ambtiba n hogii ambaba honii keti kiauau ga an is'e jeni akenan baba-se. basse- giri maige ai-bara niingoi kuna attedan hairiinbara ka nisse kon arai hanki neji dangau ai kiiluf mefan- dan an keraien. nen I's'S'e ro aruennen da ni'u elmang uaiyd daro at^ masonu yase aru ma niute. ambiiba kena se* dungane handangard agnoenne ka luin oiiuaiki. atiikken di'ru kiiluf aff'o, aunin kain' abiin ga sifuna ahiinna ga dere irr^- gond katii nga. THE LORDS PRAYER. oba mu wonda ke tshiki n bissa; suna nka shi is limma keao keawa ; sarauta nka ta na sakkua ; yirda nka akayi kaman tshiki n bi'ssa hakkaua tshiki 11 dunia. bamu yau tshiina da kuhim. yafe mamu sunubainiu kaman damn kayafe masii woddtinda sukayi mamu sunubai kiidda kakaimu tshiki n rndi amma katshiei tshiemu daga mugu. dong sarauta takatshe da alhorma da abada abada amin. irrim baba ro bere b<5ne niiumia atikki ka nynko koitere. iiyn tamdro robere b(5nc, minjida diiunia kona. m'rua s'acs'eni ua n el kiik. abesire yafimu irrinkoi neusurufurus^ irrenaes'enu masero irrisuriif. irriukoi yogasiri d'ebber6 futii. danga nynko koitere indaninne dareja har dynien tonii nikembord. 62 Mission to Central Africa. Notes. [This is a copy of the Answer which the Sultan of ^Akadez sent to the Commander of El Nur*", Lusu'^, and all the ''Keilowi's,] In the name of God, the merciful, the compassionate. Prayer to hira for the ex- cellent Propliet, his family, and his excellent companions ! From the Commander'', the Minister'' of the Sultan, 'Abd-el Kadir, son of the Sultan, Mohammed el Bakin', to the heads of the families^ of all the tribe of ''El Niir, and 'Hamed, and Cei's, and all those among you who ''have large possessions, perfect peace be to you. Your eloquence, thanks, and information are deserving of praise. We have seen the auxiliaries sent to us by your tribe', and we have laboured diligently with them against the marauders'" who impede the kafilahs of the poor", and the frequenting of the road of those who travel and of those who remain at home. On this account we desire to receive aid from you against their incursions" [ghazahj. The people of the Keil Fadayi t, they are the marauders."" We should not have forbidden their chiefs to exercise rule over them'' except for three things : 1st, Because they will fly from Ani'kel to Wulumudun, [Wuldmudun, i. e. the Tribe of Mudun ;] 2ndly, That they may not make an alliance with them against us, for they are all marauders'" ; and 3rdly, On this account, that you approve of this act of retribution'' against them. Come then to us quickly. You know that^ " what the hand holds [comes] from its following the fingers, for without the fingers the hand can seize nothing." We therefore will expect your determination [to come], that is to say your com- ing after the departure of the salt [^kafilah] of the 'Itisan, fixed among you [for] the 1.5th day of the month. "Godt (Jod is merciful andanswereth prayer ! Come therefore to us, and we will bare our arms" and drive away the ""marauders, and fight valiantly against tliem as God (be He glorified !) hath commanded. ^" Lo ! corruption hath multiplied on the face of the earth !" May the Lord^ not question us on account of the poor and needy, orphans and widows, according to his word, ''" Ye are all shepherds, and ye shall all be questioned respecting your flock, whether ye have indeed taken good care of it, or dried it up."^ Delay not therefore, but hasten to our abode where we are all assembled, for '*"'* diligence is the duty of all ;" or send thy messenger to us quickly with a posi- tive answer ; send thy messenger as soon as possible. '"''Farewell ! Note. — This letter is written in barbarous Arabic, and many passages may admit of different interpretations. The names and foreign words are expressed in the Latin character, according to Sir William Jones's system of orthography, generally adopted and used in the Geo- graphical Journal. It is very easily recollected, and enables the reader to pro- nounce the words correctly, and write them in the original character without diffi- culty or error. It consists in uniformly expressing each sound by the same symbol, giving to the vowels the sound they have in Italian, German, Spanish, &c., and to the consonants the power they have in English, except when no such sounds occur in the English language, as in the Greek or German ch, here kh, and those peculiar sounds to which ours only approximate, which are distinguished by a point above or below the similar letter, d, t, s, s, z, z, &c. "^Ahadez, pronounced Agadez, is here seen for the first time in its proper form. None of the Arab writers hitherto accessible mention this place, unless it be Ibn Khaldiin, whose history of the Beraber [pronounced Brc'ber] has just issued from the press at Algiers. i" Pronounced En Niir. "" Eiisu : perhaps it should be Liisu. The negroes generally point their Arabic words, and have rarely any knowledge of the difference between long and short syllables. The quiescent vowel letters are therefore usually omitted by them. '' As Dr. Barth writt'S Keilowee, he perhaps meant Kailowi; but we have Kelowee below (with a final vowel in the original copy\ which seems to show Keilowi to be right. ' The Emir. Missioji to Central Africa. 63 f The Emin. Emm is sometimes a proper name, Imt here it is evidently a title given to the Emir el Nur, Commander of the Tribe of El Niir, and a Governor or \'iceroy (Emi'n) of his district under the Sultan of Akadez. ^ The heads, &c. Dr. Barth says in a note that this passage was rendered illegible in the original by having been wetted. The only difficult word in his copy is kamikik or kasikili', for which kabi'liyat has been substituted as an intelligible and possible reading, though kabayil (spelt habyle by Shaw) is the proper Arabic plural of kabileh (tribe), the term generally used by the Berbers. '"' The tribe of El Niir," in the original aulad-el-nur, i.e. the " children* of light," probably the names of an Arab tribe, or of the first Berber tribe who em- braced Islam. ' Hamed for Ahmed is very common in Barbary. ^ The word here used has been evidently mistranscribed. It probably should be el mulaharrabin, " the near neighbours," or " those on whom you have influence." ' Literally " from among your children." " Literally "men constantly at war," i. e, the predatory Berbers who are always lying in wait for kafilahs. " Perhaps Fakirs, i. e. poor pilgrims and santons. ° Ghazdh or yJiazdt is a sudden inroad, aforai/, generally for the purpose of ob- taining slaves, gh is sounded like the Northumbrian r in Barbary. P This passage is obscure, and may perhaps mean " we should not have prohibited their ruling over their people." '^ Aljezi, " their being compelled to make restitution," or perhaps, "their being punished as they deserve." ■■ A proverb which would probably be found in Al Meidaui. * Kafilah, corrupted by some writers into caffla, is the Arabic word expressing the Persian kar-ravan now commonly used by the Syrian Arabs. ' The salt kafilah of the Itisan is the same as that of the Keil-geris, whose de- parture from'Akade'z on its road to Bilmah has been already mentioned. The Sultan of the Itisan himself sometimes accompanies this kafilah, and it seems probable that this name is mentioned on account of the higher nobility of this tribe, in pre- ference to that of the more powerful Keil-geris. — B. Itisan seems from Dr. Barth's note to be another name of the Keil-geris, a Berber tribe. Were the word Arabic, it might be " al tisan, " the goats." " The text here is doubtful. It appears to be Allah a-l-m, i. e. Allah latif, muji'b, mystical letters prefixed to some chapters in the Koran. However, it may he Allah ! Allah ! "■ O God ! O God !" " Literally, "tuck up our sleeves." ^ This is probably one of the Hadith or traditional sayings of the Prophet, as it is not a quotation from the Koran. ^ That is, neglected to milk the sheep that they may grow fat. "''Jihad. " Diligence in the advancement of religion." See Koran, ix. 24, 41. Sale's Version, p. 151, 15.5. ^^ Literally " Salvation be to you." R. Second Letter from Dr. Barth to Dr. Beke. Kanc5, February 23, 1851. Without stopping to give any personal news, which you will doubtless hear from another quarter, I proceed at once to acquaint you with the result of my researches at this place, which would indeed have been much more extensive, if my material circumstances, in conjunction witii a little sickness, had not taken up a good deal of my time. The present Sultan of the Fellani empire, or the Emir el Miimenim, Ali ben Bello, is represented as a man whose whole endeavour is only to amass riches— an * d has been accidentally omitted at the end of Auldd. t These are under the special authority of the Sultan. — B. 64 Mission to Central Africa. example which is strictly followed hy his officers. But as he never visits his pro- vinces, and as the communication with them is very precarious, the governors are very independent, the office of some of them having even hecome hereditary. The Sultan himself is said to be able to collect a force of ten thousand horse. The name of the present Gedddo is Abdii. Among the governors, who equally adopt the title of Sultan, — 1. The Governor of Kano has the greatest power, on account of the market, which enables him to send ten thousand cowries daily to Sakatii for the household of the Sultan. The name of the present Sultan of Kano is Othman ben Ibrahim Dabo, but his brother, the Galadima, has in fact greater influence and power, so that in reality there are at present two Governors, each of whom requires a considerable present. The Governor, who is said to have formerly had a force of 10,000 horse, is now not able to collect more than 7000. 2. The second, as regards real power, after the Governor of Kano, is, as I am informed, Ibrahim ben Yakiiba, the Governor of JJoshi, or Bautshi, who has his residence at Yakoba ; for although he has a force of only 2000 horse, his troops of archers, the best known in Sudan, are numberless. 3. The third rank belongs to the Governor of Zegzeg, Mohammed Sani, who re- sides at Zaria. He has about 3000 horse, and numbers of archers. Zegzeg is a province of great extent. 4. Loiil, the Governor of the extensive province of Adamawa, comes next, who has his residence at Yola. Besides a large army of archers, he has a force of 2000 horse. 5. The next in power is Hammedu, the Governor of Khad^dscha, who has a force of ahout 2000 horse. G. Next to him is Mohammed Bello ben Mallem Romaro, the Governor of Katshiia, with a force of not much more than 1000 horse. Katshna, on account of its vicinity to the hostile countries of Maradeh and Gober, has greatly declined. 7. Rather more powerful is Abd er Rahman, the Sultan of Katdgum, who is said to bring 1500 horse into the field. 8. Next to him in power may be considered Yerima Ahraedu, the Governor of Mesaiu, who is said to have 1000 horse at his command. 9. Then follows Harder Lemima, the blind old Governor oi Mar mar, who resides at Naenawa ; his former residence, Birni-u-Gorno, having been destroyed by the Bornuese. He is said to have about 700 horse. 10. The tenth rank seems to be occupied by Ismaela, the Governor oi Shera, brother of Abd er Rahman 'of Kata^um, with not more than 500 horse. 11. Then follows Koranga, the Governor of Bohi'ru, having his residence at the place of the same name, with about (jOO horse. The 12th, and last of all, is the freebooting Governor of the ruined province of Daura, a man bearing the same name as the Governor of Katshna, Mohammed Bello, who, though he has but 400 horse, is feared by all his neighbours. Besides these twelve Governors, who receive their orders directly from Sakatii, there is the Governor of Zan/aia, named Ahmedu, who, as the cousin of the Sultan, enjoys almost the same rights as the above-mentioned persons. He resides at Bakiira, and is in command of a force of 300i) to 4000 horse. In addition to the foregoing, there are still two important provinces belonging to the Fellanis, Ni/ffi and Ali/dri, as Yauri is commonly called ; but they do not, like the others, pay tribute to the Sultan of Sakatii, but to Khalili, the Sultan of Gondu, and grandson of the conqueror Othman dan Fodi by his son Abd- allahi. The present Governor of Ali/dri is named Thita. He resides at Afasa, and is able to bring into the field 5000 horse. The name of the present Sultan of Aj(^j is Masiiba, who resides at Ladi, the present capital ; Raba having been destroyed by the Fellanis about five years ago, when it rebelled against them. The Governor of Nyffi has about 2000 horse. The court at Sakatii consists of nine persons. The next person after the Sultan, or Governor-serki, is the Galadima, his first minister, and the natural Vice- Governor, a person sometimes of greater authority than the Governor himself. Next follow the Serkidawokki, who has the command of all the horse in Kano; th.' Hurfla-n-Kano, the chief or general who leads the army ; the Al-Kiili or prin- cipal judge ; the Tshiroman Kano, who exercises the power in the southern part Mission to Central Africa. G5 of the province; the Serki-n-naye, who has the northern part of the province under his authority ; the Gado or minister of the treasiir) ; and finally, the Serki- n-Shiino, literally the master of the oxen ; the oxen as the principal carriers of lusgage in Sudan being an important part of a court or army in this country. When the Sultan leaves the place for any length of time, accompanied by bis first minister and his captains, the Gad(l and the berki-n-Shuno have the authority. I now proceed to give a short account. of the quarters and the gates of' the toum of Kami, which Clapperton, though he made such a long stay here, has not, as far as I am aware, made known. In enumerating the different quarters of the town, I shall begin from the mountain named Dab'i, the most characteristic feature of the town, at the southern foot of which the houses commence, stretching down towards the S. with very irregular outskirts. From this point I shall proceed eastwards, returning afterwards to the W., and so on. In this order the names of the quarters are as follows : — Dala, Kutumbaw, Gerke, Madabo, Yantandu, Adakawa, Koki Seta, Limantshi. Then turning S. to W., Yandoea, Jibji'n, Yellabu, another Limantshi with a large mosque, Masukiani, Tuddum-Makera, Yamrotshe, Mara- rababokoi, Baki-n-rua, Runfawa, Yellua. Next, turning again towards the E., llimangirajire, Msiggoga, Maggogi, Unguankarf, Dendali-n-Ware, another Limantshi, Dukkurana, Riiffogi', De'rma. All these quarters are principally, if not exclusively, inhabited by the Hab€, and they all lie to the N. of the Jakara, the ill-famed waterpool> which separates the southern half of the town from the northern ; while the following quarters are almost exclusively inhabited bi/ Fellanis : — Yaale'ria, Marmara, Agadesawa, Yiila (the madiiki-n-Kand), El Kantara, Uaitiikka, Gosherife-Uodo, T6kob;i, Dukkawa, Saghidarnse, Shafushi ; then, returning from E. to W., Sherbale, Madate, Kiirna, Sheshe, Dirmi-Kai-okii, Lekilii-n-lemu, Kullua, Al Hendekf, Sorandinki, Rimi-n- Kijro, Toji (where the palace of the Governor is), Yarkasa, Mandauan', another Marmara with the surname of Dantiirku, Sabsansara, Kudedefawa, Jingo, Dosaei, Warure, Gau, Kurmawa, Hawsawa, Ungua Makama, Galadantshi, Shuriimtshi (where the elder son of the Governor, or the Shuromo, lives), Yesserki. Kurmawa, Kusserua, Udelawa (lying S. of the palace), Rimi-n-kersi, Karakd, Dugcrawa, Yiikase, Nasserawa, Abdelawa. The importance of these ditferent quarters of Kano is the greater as in some cases they are entirely separated from one another by the spacious places or the numerous quarries which interrupt the groups of houses. Of the whole character of the town, which is indeed quite picturesque and interesting on account of the number of palm and other trees waving over its surface, I will not say a word, but will merely mention the gates in the extensive town-wall, which, like that of Katshna and Zaria, leaves a very wide open space, in some directions two miles in extent, round the to^n. The names of the gates, going from N. to W. and round from S. to E., are as follows : — Kofa Masu'ger, Kofa-n-riia leading to Zinder, Kufa-n-adilma, K()fa gndan leading to Katshna, Kofa Kansiikkeli on the direct road to Sakatii, K()fa K;iboga, Kofa-n-diikania on the road to Zaria, Kofa gadan Kaia, K()fa Kura leading to Katah, Kofa daagiindi, Kofa nassarawa, Kofa uauibai on the direct road to Bornii, and Kofa mata. These gates are shut every night and opened every morning; while the gate called Tawaieu Kofa (the gate of the enemies) is walled up, because, as they say, a prince, who left the town by that gate, died, but, as the name seems to indicate, because the enemy — the Fellanis — made their entrance by it. Subjoined is a register of the towns and larger villages belonging to the province of Kano: — Of Towns surrounded bji an earth-irall, the houses being built partly of earth and partly of hashish, there are the following: — Jin'ma, Gerki', Sankara, Yafen, Ri'n- gim, Diishi, Gaea, Ge'rko, Dell, Udil, Tawra, Kura, Sakkua, Hebeji, Rimiingado, Dawaki, Godia, Bishi, Gezana, Ziikerc', Killi, Maejia, Mega, Merke, Takai, San- gaia, (Jogeni, and Faniso. {)i laiijir villages I learned the following names: — Ungogo, Dawilno, Zabenawa, Gezc', Wottaii, Gora, Miidobr, Salanta, Ammagua, Dadi-n-diinia, Gabezana, Doko, Quinkealla, Daiigaiamc, Gnrjana, Zungo-n-Killi, Abegilni, Sakkua-n-Komboto, Ziingo, Gezi, Raliuidlem, Rimen Asbenana, Dawaki, Gano, Rand, Teuneger, Kia- wa, Kaduawa, TakaUifia, Katilkattl, Gazobi (a widely scattered village to the S.), Uansdschia, Gulii, Gani, Tamberawa, Uiihassa, Gorzo, Karaie, Kafi-n-agur, Rnka- F n() Mission to Central Africa. dawn, Hoda, Tariiia, Filki, Koki (towards the W.), Dawaki-n-Dambambara, Ka- tdnkatiiiigerawe, Katanga baba, Katiiiiga Ki'iranii, Katkazuba, Mallem-Kuiua, Buukori (with a considerable market), Kayaukilsari, Tudduni I3illane, Ilatsherawa, Yaniniata, Ueme, Denie-n-dank;'irfi, Tuufafi, Kuddadefawa, Zango-n-Daandu, Pa- giukilw, Jajira, Tofa, Dangugua, Zango mala andu, JClli, AL'idatshi, Makode, Kon- shi-n-guarta, Yakase. Tula. The order in which these villages are enumerated is round from the E. by S. to W. I. Route from Kand to Adamawa by the way of BosJii. 1. The first day you arrive early in the forenoon at Sakua, a place situate on a running stream called Kogi-n-Sakua. In the morning you pass the village of Dawaki, 2nd day. — About dhoJior arrive at Dell, a considerable place, larger than Tasa- wa, after having passed another considerable place, only a little smaller than Dell, called Gerko. The entire country is well cultivated, and there are but few trees on the road. 3rd day. — Shortly after mid-day you arrive at Parna, situated at the foot of a mountain by the side of a small rivulet. During the morning you pass a village named Gedia, between which and Parna there is some wood. Pai-na is not so large as Dell. 4th day. — Through a mountainous country covered with wood. At noon you arrive at a place called Tebki, the frontier between the province of Kano and tliat of Boshi. 5th day. — You arrive early in the morning at Sabangari, a village situated in the plain. After having crossed a small brook near Tebki, your road lies through a well-cultivated country, where the people dwell in scattered huts during the rainy season, while during the dry season they retire to the tops of the mountains. . iy) Mission to Central Africa. 2nd. About ascr arrive at Maiktma, a village iuhabited by Moslems. Pass many villages. Pleuty of running water. 3rd. Between 1 and 2 p.m., Matshijo, situated on a hill, and inhabited by Pagans. Besides durra and gbussub, the people have plenty of cotton, of which they make ge'bbega for the Sultan of Eoshi ; and yet they are not clothed, but go quite naked, having the entire face tattooed. The country is hilly. 4th. Between 2 and 3 p.m. reach Maimenluio, a small straggling village in a hilly country, inhabited by Pagans. The country is almost wholly covered with wood, much infested by elephants. mh. In the forenoon reach liogussa, situated on a deep narrow streamlet running to the river Benue. Gth. In the forenoon reach Gari'-u-serki-n-Kudda (not the native name, but so called by the people of Haussa), a village situated at the S.W. foot of the moun- taiu, and iuhabited by Moslems, while on the top of the mountain there dwell Pagans. To the N. of the road are mountains. 7th. In the forenoon, Jebjeb, the frontier place of the province of Boshi, where salt is found of excellent quality and of a reddish colour. The country is not well cultivated. 8th. In the forenoon, Bume'uder (called Baki-n-Kogi by the people of Haussa), situated on the Benue, on which river there are many boats. Salt is found in great plenty. The inhabitants are Moslems, and are clothed. Hanidrrua, the residence of Sultan Mohammed, is at a short distance. According to my informant, this Sultan is under the direct command of the Sultan of Sokotu (which is the right pronunciation of Sakatii). 9th. Encamp near the Pagan Kuauas, on the bank of the river Benue, which, according to my informant, is about 2(.i00 yards broad. The people have a great many barks for crossing the river. The Koanas are large of stature, surpassing all my informant ever saw. loth. About 1 P.M. arrive at the dwellings of the Pagans, called Amana Barka. The whole road through a plain bordered by mountains. 1.3th. In the morning arrive at the residence of Sultan Tshehshi, a Pagan prince, after having slept two nights in the open air. For, though the country, which is level, is inhabited, travellei-s avoid the Pagans. On the third day the plain is interrupted by high mountains, covered with trees, and is thickly inhabited. 1 5th. About 1 P.M. reach Sultan Ytiga, after having slept one night in the open air. The whole country is mountainous; and the inhabitants, who live on the tops of the. mountains, are quite naked. They live on masr — the Egyptian durra. 18th. Arrive at Kiintsha, the residence of the governor Mohammed Gabdu, a Fellan, who is subject to the Sultan of Adamawa. The place is large, but the houses are entirely of hashish, with the exception of that of the governor, which is built of earth. The town is situated on a river, which in the dry season is ford- able, but cannot be crossed in the rains without a boat. It is tributary to the Fiiro, which runs into the Benue. The two preceding nights are passed in the Khalia, though the country is thickly inhabited by Pagans, m ho live on the tops of the mountains. Mohammed Gdbdu is said to have not less than U),000 slaves. From this place you turn a little to the W., continuing S.S.W. 19th. Arrive at Maileggel, keeping along the river, which is to your left. The country is well cultivated by the slaves of the Sultan of Kuntsha, w ho inhabit the place. There ai'e mountains on both sides of the road, but at some distance. 20th. A village of the slaves of Jorofdngel, situated on a hill. 21st. Joroflingel, a place of middling size, built by a Fellani governor of that name, who resides here, being dependent on the Sultan at Yola. On the march you haTC mountains, whicli, from what I can make out, seem not to form con- tinuous ranges, but rather to be isolated. Before reaching Jorofiingel you cross a river, which by Arab travellers generally, and by my informant, is called nis-el- m;i, and is represented as being the origin of the Benue. It is a stone's throw in width, and is crossed on a sort of raft. My informant is well aware that the Be'nue runs into the Kwara,* and not into Lake Tshad ; but unfortunately he does not remember the precise name which the river bears here. * S<.>e p. 67.— Ed. Mission to Central Africa. 71 22nd. A village of the Bsikr Ycmyem, a section of the ill-famed Ycniyem, who have ol)tained the name of Bakr from a Felluni of that name who rules over them. These people (as was proved many years ago) really do eat human flesh ; hut where subjected to the Fellanis they are not now allowed to enjoy their favourite food. The place is situated on a considerable navigable river tributary to the Ben lie. 23rd. Maibe'li, a small place situated on the same river farther up, and inhabited by Fellanis and Pagans. The people, who possess plenty of cattle, live on milk and dukhen. About a day and a half still further up the river, to the S.S.E., is a large walled town called Tumbtiti, the residence of Sultan Mohammed Sombo. The entire country is thickly inhabited. Maibe'li is the frontier place of the territories of the Fellanis towards the S S.W. ; for the Pagans farther S. only pay the jezia, or ransom money, in order not to be molested by razzias. 24th. You enter the territory of the Tekfir Pagans, who, like the Yemyem, relish human flesh, placing the heads of those whom they have devoured (their enemies) as ornaments on the top of the palace or dwelling of their king. But their ordinary food is masr and dukhen. Of ghussub they have but little ; cotton there is none. The Tekdr perforate their nostrils, some passing rings through the orifice, while others do not. They live in holes underground. The whole of their country, in which my informant marched ten days, is plain, there being only wadls and slight eleva- tions. It is watered by small rivulets, but there is no large river ; and it is shaded by the banana and gonda tree. The gonda is the most common tree in all Ada- mawa, but farther N. the banana is not known. During the last five or six days he saw the goro and the hanoriiii in great plenty. After ten days' march — S.S.W., S.W. — my informant came to 34th. The frontier of the Je'tem Pagans, who go naked, and are armed with guns, but scarcely know how to use them. Their country is hilly, being at no great dis- tance from the sea-coast. My informant was told that the roads leading from the palace of their Sultan are covered with sheep-skins for a distance of half a day's journey. They use cowries. W. (?) of the J6tem live the Di'ndin, who dwell in trees, which are of so enor- mous a circumference that one tree is capable of holding ten huts. The weapons of the Dindin are said to consist of nothing but sticks and clubs, which they throw with great dexterity from their trees. The Dindin border on Bafu, where is found the tukuruii. From the Jt^tem to Ke'ttofo is three days' journey. From Kurdslm to Yula, direction E. 1st day. About aser arrive at Ldru, inhabited by Fellani, The road winds along between high mountains, in which springs are very plentiful. The moun- tains are inhabited by Pagans, while the Fellani with their cattle occupy the valleys. 3rd. Arrive at a village situated at the foot of a hill, and at no great distance from Zengi, a place inhabited by Fellanis. You sleep one night in the Khalla. The country is much infested by elephants. 4th. Keach a tributary of the river Faro, called Baki-n-Kogi by the p?ople of Haussa, and Bahr Hamilu by the Arab merchants. The country, which is inhabited by the slaves of the Fellan, is much infested by elephants, as al>o by the large antelope called by the Arabs bagr-el-wahsh. 5th. Reach a place called Iliimidu, inhabited by Fellanis. Gth. Between 1 and 2 o'clock p.m. you arrive at Yola, a large open place, and a sort of distant suburb of the large town of Giiren, in which the Sultan of Adamawa does not reside on account of the razzias made by the Pagans. Yola is situated in an extensive plain, which is well cultivated. There is plenty of indigo; hut salt is dear, one ass-load often fetching four slaves. Indeed, slaves are a cheap article of merchandise in Adamawa; and with a turkedie— worth about three-quarters of a dollar in Kano— you may often buy a slave. Ivory is likewise very cheap ; and, according to the state of the market" you may buy the largest elcphant's-tooth for one or two turkedies. In Yola cowries are not current, and the merchants pur- chase everything with turkedies and merjawtiddu — small yellow glass-beads from Venice. Yo'la is situated on the Faro, a considerable river, which receives all the small rivulets in which this country abounds, and is not passable except in boats. 72 Mission to Central Ajrica. I was surprised at learniug so important a fact, as my previous informant, who (as I have told you) bad been only once to Yola, was not at all aware of it. But my new authority, besides being a very intelligent man. Las made long and repeated sojourns in Adamawa. Uu the same authority I add The direct Route from Hamdnud to Yula. 2nd day. Zengi. All the country inhabited. 3rd. Start from Zengi in the evening, travelling the whole night in order to avoid the fei-ocious Pagans, who during the night remain quiet, but kill all who venture to traverse their country by daylight. In the morning arrive at Taheru, or rather a place governed by Tahe'ru, and dependent on Yula. 4th. Arrive at a place of middling size, inhabited by Fellanis and governed by Haj For. On the road you pass isolated mountains. .5th. Yola. According to the same experienced traveller, it is a joui-ney of only fifteen days from Yula to Kuka ; seven days from Yula to the northern frontier- town of Adamawa, called Jemnulra, the governor of which is Abd-Alhihi ; from thence three days to Mora, the capital of Maudara, which is five long days' journey from Kuka. My friend was informed that the shortest road from the most distant town of Adamawa to Baghirmmi, through the Ajasen, is only four (long) days. This road is now interrupted. The name of Adamawa is said to have been un- known before the time of the Fellanis, the country being named after Adama, a general of Othman dan (bingel, in Fellani, the son of) Fodi the great conqueror. But it is very probable that the kingdom of Haiidama, cited by Ibn Khaldiin, is Adamawa. Route from Yola to Baia, according to El Mukhtdr, an Arab of the tribe el Idesan, who live in Bdgena, a large country ten days N. of Sansanding. 1st day. Gdrin (as this informant pronounced the name), the former capital of the Sultan, inhabited entirely by Mohammedans. Between Yola and Gurin, or Guren, there is no river, the Fi'iro coming from the W., flowing round Gurin on its S. side, and then turning northward towards Yula. Exactly at the bend of the river, on its southern bank, is Bu'nda. Direction S.E. 2nd. Between 1 and 2 p.m., Laniarda, inhabited by Pagans. The road lies to the left of the Faro, which is crossed, at first setting out, at a ford in the dry season, and in a boat during the rainy season. The country plain — mountains in the dis- tance. You then turn S.W. On the other side of the river is Tshiimba, a large place situated at the foot of the mountains, and inhabited by Fellanis. 3rd. Encamp near the Bute Pagans, between 1 and 2 o'clock p.m. The country IS mountainous on both sides of the road, the Faro being far oft" to the W. As throughout Adamawa, there is plenty of honey. 4th. A village of Fellanis, situated on a river ruiming northward into the Fiiro, and called Maie Kolejo. Here resides a governor of the name of Ardo Mohammed. The whole country mountainous. Tiie inhabitants pretend that there is gold here, but that they do not know how to oI)tain it. Arrive between 1 and 2 o'clock p.m. 5th. Arrive at aser among the Pagans, whose king is called Njarcndi, in the midst of isolated groups of mountains. The whole country under cultivation, the crops consisting of dukhen, durra, koltshi, and cotton. (ith. At mughreb reach a Fellani village, whose governor is Joro Kilbdu. The country passed through is mouLtainous. The inhabitants are Pagans, but very well formed. 7th. Pass the night in the Khalla, among the Pagan slaves of the Fellani. 8th. Between 11 and noon, Gi'iniden', a walled place, of considerable size for this country, and said to be about the same size as Gummel, built entirely of reeds, with the exception of the house of the governor and the mosque, the former being built of earth, and the latter of earth and reeds. 'I'here is a daily market. 9tb. Between 1 and 2 p.m. encamp among the slaves of the Fellan. The country is mountainous: rivulets in the valley. 10th. Other Pagans. Country covered with small villages. Uth. At aser encamp near a village of the Umbum, a large well-made tribe of Mission to Central Africa. 73 Pagans, who tattoo their bodies, make cuttings in their chins, and sharpen their teeth. They live partly in the valley, and partly on the top of the mountains. 12th. Arrive at Bai'a, the capital of a district of the same name, governed hy a Sultan of the name of Boshi, who is under the authority of the Sultan Bundam, Bundara himself being dependent on Loel, the Sultan of Adamawa. Bai'a is a place like Gdmderi, situated in a plain between a wadi covered with trees and the foot of the mountains ; but it has not any market. The inhabitants are almost entirely naked. Tbey have asses and sheep, but no large cattle, which is the case also in Bangbay. They have plenty of fowls, which are eaten by the men, but the women do not touch them at all ; a similar distinction between the food of the males and females being observed in all these countries. They likewise eat the flesh of elephants, of which there are very many in the country, and which are caught in pits. There are also numerous parrots. The country produces much dukhen, and the banana is the most common fruit. There is no cotton. The only weapons of the people are spears of wood, which they do not poison. Route from Yola to Loggun, Which I obtained from another pilgrim of the name of Abu Bakr ben N^m, a native of Kebbi, who on his way to Mekka passed through Adamawa, where he resided a whole year. He has also given me much other information. (Rate of travelling very slow with a caravan consisting of oxen, donkeys, and a few horses, about five hours per day.) 1st day. Beti, a village inhabited by Fellanis, situated on a small stream of the same name, which runs from S. to N., and joins the Benue. The country is plain. 2nd. Giiri, a large town situated on the western bank of the Filro, a river larger than the Benue itself, and running from S. to N. The country flat; mountains in the distance. 3rd. Bunam, a place inhabited by Fellani. All the country flat. In the morning you cross the Faro. 4th. Tsheboa, a place inhabited by Wulemas of the Fellanis, of the tribe Ulerba. Country flat. 5th. Gdrua, a place inhabited by the Pagans of the Bata, and situated on the Benue, which is even here so large a river as to require to be crossed in boats. Towards the W. there are mountains. 6th. Diikka, a place inhabited by Fellani, and situated on a small streamlet. The country well shaded by trees, amongst which there are plenty of rimi. Towards the W. mountains. 7th. Gewe, situated on the other (the eastern) side of the Benue, which has to be crossed in boats at all seasons of the year, the Yemyem being the ferrymen on the river. A large mountain called Banawa, inhabited by the Pagans called Fall, rises close over the Be'nue. 8th. Bdzuma, a place governed by Sultan Jamhura. The country flat ; wells and pools of water. 9th. Badesi, inhabited by Fellanis ; situated at the N. foot of a mountain. No streams. 10th. Bainga, a village in a district called Gidder, and governed by Sultau Omaro Imbi'lla. The country is mountainous, and the road here is not safe. 1 1th. Binder, a Fellani village. Country flat. No streams ; pools of standing water. 12th. Lflra, a Fellani village, with a mountain to the W. 13th. Mi'ndif (so my Fellani informant calls what by others is called Mendefi), a Fellani village, situated at the S. foot of a very high mountain of the same name, which it takes three days to ascend. The Pagans of this district belong to the Summaia. Rocks black and red. 14th. Amawdin, a Fellani village in a mountainous country, but without run- ning water. 15th. Jtlguf, a Fellani village, situated at the foot of a small mountain, while the rest of the country is flat. ICth. Marrua, a considerable place, inhabited by Fellanis, and a market of im- portance, situated close to a mountain. The Sultan of this imporunt place is Mallem Mohammed Ddmraka. 74 Mission to Central Africa. 17th. Patawi'l, a scattered place, with a considerable market on Wednesday, and governed by Sultan Ingiidii. 18th. Biilaza, a Fellani village in a flat country. 19th. Malam, the frontier place of the Fellanis, towards the territory of Mus- gaw. The country flat. 2()th. In the wilderness, thickly inhabited by elephants, buffaloes, rhinoce- roses, &c. 21st. Wilderness. 2'ind. Wiija, a village belonging to the territory of Loggun ; but even here there are Fellanis, who come thus far with their cattle on account of the pasture- grounds. The country flat, only a few hills. 2.'3rd. Jinna, a village in a fiat, well-shaded country. To the S. of these last- mentioned places there is a most sterile desert, called (by the Fellanis) Fill Obiija, without a single tree. 24th. In the wilderness. 25th. The capital of the province Luggun, a large town of the same name, situated on the Sbiiri. As regards the form of the name, I must observe that tlie .native name is Ltiggene, Luggun being the form given to it by the Shiia Arabs. Without continuing this route farther eastward, I will only add that on the fol- lowing day my infonnant, having crossed the Shdri in the morning, slept at a vil- lage situated on the Aisu, which joins the Shiiri at Kiisseri. Consequently, the Aisu is a branch of the Shari, and not the same river in its upper course. Route from Yola to Ybo, W.S. W., According to an educated native of Yakoba, of the name of Mitllem Kadxiri, who has travelled in Adamawa in almost every direction, and three years ago accom- panied the important razzia made by the powerful Fellan governor of Tshtlmba, whose name is Ambasambo. Kate of travelling about 20 English miles per day. 1st day. Maibati, a Fellan village, situated on the river Fiiro. Arrive about noon. Direction almost S. 2nd. Lamarde, a village inhabited by Pagans, and situated on the Fdro, the course of which river the road follows. Mountains at a great distance. Fine country. 3rd. Tshilmba, a considerable place, inhabited by Fellanis, and governed by the above-mentioned Ambasambo. Tshdmba is finely situated, between the Filro towards the E., and a large mass of mountain on the W., which is visible from a distance of seven days far beyond Yula. This large mountain, which is called Alantika, is thickly inhabited by Pagans governed by seven different princes, and its entire circuit is said to be four days' journey. The whole country is moun- tainous. 4th day. Gimgiitl, a considerable town of the Fellanis, in a flat country, moun- tains being visible towards the S. You reach the place between 1 and 2 p.m., having in the morning crossed the Fdro, which, during the rains, and for two months afterwards, is as broad as from the western to the eastern gate of Kuka, and is fordable here during seven months of the year. 5th. Sleep in the wilderness. The country is only a little hilly, and is full of wild animals. Principal fruit-trees, gigifia and goiida. Gth. Amb.ina, a Pagan tribe, on a river running from S.W. to N.E., and joining the Faro. Towards S. and W. there are mountains. The whole country uncul- tivated. 7th. Miimbere, a tribe of Pagans living on the mountains. The country moun- tainous, the road itself leading over the mountains, but no -watercourse. 8th. Kua-n-Durina (the Haussa name, meaning " a lake inhabited by hippopo- tami "), a considerable lake among the mountains. A long day. Encamp at aser. No village. 9th. Sambo, a considerable place, inhabited by Fellanis. Country only a little hilly ; water close under the surface. loth. Adamajigera, a village governed by the Fellani Adama, and enclosed by mountains on every side. In the valley a fresh stream runs close to the village. nth. WarM;indu, a village inhabited !)y Pagans, and situated in a plain, through which the Faio takes its course, being here from S. to N. Mission to Central Africa. 75 PSth. Sleep in the forest. Country flat, thickly covered with trees. No inha- bitants. 13th. Between 9 and 10 a.m. arrive at the considerable river called Jeren, run- ning from W. to E. (?), and called by the Haussa people Kogi-n-Tibati, from the large Fellani town of the name of Tibati, situated on the S. shore of the river, which is to be crossed only in boats. 14th. Gan'-n-Katshella Bute, as the name implies, the residence of the chieftain of the Bute Pagans. The whole road through forests. No river. 15th. Gari-n-Katshcdla Tekdr, the residence of the chief of the Tekdr. The whole country so thickly covered with forest, that you can scarcely get sight of the sun. 16th. Gan'-n-Katshillla Yemyem. the ill-famed Pagan tribe. All forest. 17th. Gari-n-M6ntsheran Riite, another chief of the Biite. Country plain. 18th. A Pagan settlement at the foot and on the top of a mountain called Tngua. 19th. Gan'-n-serki-n- Yemyem, the residence of the Sultan of these cannibals, situated in a valley thickly covered with trees. 20th. Gari-n-serki-n-Fiindu, another tribe of Pagans, who have each their parti- cular language. They are all armed with bows and arrows. 21st. Gari'-n-serki'-n-Tekiir, residence of the chief of the Tekar, who, according to my informant, give themselves four cuts close under the eye, a little towards the ear. 22nd. Gari-n-Katshella-n-Biim, situated on another large river, not passable, except in boats, and called (by the Haussa people) Rua-n-Kado. It runs from E. to W. 23rd. Sleep on the northern shore of the same river, here called Baki-n-kogf- Jetem, after the Pagan inhabitants of this country called Jetem. It winds along among mountains. 24th. A village of the Mo, a large tribe of Pagans, living on the top of the moun- tains situated on the same river. All this tribe are armed with guns. A long day's journey till aser. 25th. Another tribe, called Abo, on a rivulet winding through the mountains. All armed with guns. On your road you see the town of Umbli, with a large mountain towards the S. 26th. Dingding, another Pagan tribe, who eat clay, which they mix with butter. 27th. Yiirua, a Pagan tribe, armed with guns, and living on the mountains. 28th. P6, another tribe, living principally on sugar-cane, which they boil and eat like honey. Mountainous. 29th. Ybo, dwelling in nine villages on the sea-shore, called by my informant Baki-n-rua. The Ybo have neither cattle, horses, nor asses, but plenty of large sheep, goats, swine, and fowls. The expedition which my informant accompanied spent two months in Ybo, plundering the whole country and carrying away a great many slaves. Since that time the Fellanis can in some respects truly say that their empire extends to the sea, of which Bello vainly boasted ; for now every year the Ybos and their neighbours bring slaves, salt, and cowries, as a kind of tribute to the governor of Tshiimba. The expedition afterwards took another direction ; and from Gari-n-Katshella Bum went to IMbo (Bafo?), in six long days' march, this country being three days to the N. of Ybo. But my informant cannot give any distinct account of this part of his journey ; the only interesting fact which he is able to relate being that E. of Bubo there is a large town called Tsho, in a moun- tainous district. This memorable expedition was altogether absent two years. Route from Tshdmba to Baia. 1st. Lamardd (not the place of that name already mentioned), a journey of only four hours. The river Fiiro is crossed Itefore leaving the town of Tshdmba. 2nd. Gabdumana, inhabited by Pagans. Country mountainous. 3rd. Sleep in the wood. 4th. Bere, a settlement of Pagans on the mountains. The country irrigated by small streams. 5th. Umbi'im, a village of Pagans on the mountains. 6th. Umbum bdlbcl, the principal settlement of the TJnibum, situated at the W. foot of a mountain, the country being also bounded by mountains towards the W. 76 Mission to Central Africa. 7th. Katir, anotlier Pagan tribe in the mountains. Cross the Faro, -which runs from E. to W., In-ing alwaj s near the road. It is passable only in boats. 8th. Yangaro, a settlement of a section of the Yeniyem of this name, in a moun- tainous country through which a stream runs towards the Faio. 9th. Yere, a settlement of Pagans in an extensive plain, without trees, but irri- gated by water-courses. 10th. Baia, a place inhabited entirely by Pagans, and governed by a great many petty chiefs. The country is flat and all open towards the W., while E. of Baia there is a mountain. Route from Katdgum to Boberu, almost due S. 1st day. Early in the morning, between 9 and 10 o'clock, you reach Sakkua, a large place surrounded by an earth-wall, on the E. bank of the Kogi Katagum, the water of which is used by the inhabitants. In the summer there is no stream, but merely pools of water. The houses of Sakkua are built partly of earth and partly of hashish. There is a market held here on Saturday. On the road you pass many small villages. 2nd. About 11 o'clock arrive at Kefli, a large village surrounded by a wooden fence, and belonging to the province of Katagum. Many small villages on the road. 3rd. An hour after midday reach Hardawa, a large place surrounded by an earth-wall, still under Katagum. On the road you pass many villages. The soil consists of sand, and there are but few trees. 4th. Mesaw, a large place surrounded by an earth-wall, the houses being, as usual, built of mud, with pointed roofs of hashish, or the reed of ghussub. The palace of Yerima alone is built entirely of earth. The inhabitants are all of them Fellanis. A considerable market is held here on Friday. All the soil sand. 5th. About noon Daraso, a large walled place belonging to the province of Bawshi. In the morning you cross a stream in the midst of the forest. From Daraso the road turns a little to the E. of S. From this place there is a road to Bawshi, which is given below. 6th. About two or half-past two o'clock p.m. reach Tawia, a large place with an earth-wall now in decay, where there are many Pagans. All thick forest. 7th. Early in the morning, about 9 o'clock, arrive at Boberu, a large walled place, which is said to have received its name from the late Sultan, who died nine years ago. The present Sultan is Kurauga, a Fellani. His house is the only good building in the place, the other houses as usual. From Daraso to Bawshi. 1st day. About Aser reach Soro, a small open place belonging to Bawshi, situated at the western foot of a rock. The road lies through a mountainous country, the first half being thickly wooded. 2nd. About 1 o'clock p.m. arrive at Kirfi, a large open place under the rock, inhabited entirely by Pagans. The whole road is intersected by high mountains, with living [perennial ?] springs. All Pagans. 3rd. About 11 o'clock a.m., Tyrrem, a large open place, surrounded by moun- tains towards the E. and S. On the road are small villages situated on the tops of the mountains, and inhabited by Pagans. 4th. Early in the morning, about 9 o'clock, arrive at Yakoba. All the road mountainous, with small villages on the tops of the mountains. From Boberu to Ydkoha, 1st day. About 11 o'clock a.m. reach Beri-heri, a large open place situated in a broad sandy plain, the mountains being in thedistance. The houses are not of earth, but are merely huts made of hashish. '1 he place is inhabited by Fellanis and Berawm's. It belongs to the province of Mesaw. The inhabitants drink the waters of a river passing Ben-ben', and running towards Kare-kare'. 2nd. About Aser reach Semmeni, a large open place situated on a mountain. The inhabitants are all Pagans. The road mountainous, with villages on the tops of the mountains. 3rd. About half past 1 o'clock p..m. reach Tyrrem. 4th. Yakoba. Mission to Central Africa. 77 Route from Katdgum to Shera, S.S. W. 1st day. About Aser reach Gubu, a large opeu place belonging to the province of Katagum. The country opeu, partly cultivated and inhabited, and partly covered with forest. 2nd. About 11 o'clock a.m. reach Uzuni, a small open village belonging to the province of Katagum. The whole country is well cultivated, with many villages. 3rd. About noon arrive at Shera, a considerable place, fortified by nature from its position among the rocks around it, which leave only a narrow approach from N.W. and S. ; otherwise there is no wall. Most of the houses are as usual in the larger places, some only being of hashish. The house of the governor is built of earth. The market is of no importance. From Shtra to Bawshi. - W.^ a little S. 1st day. About half-past 1 o'clock p.m. arrive at Fagam, a place larger than Shera, surrounded by a mud wall, being the frontier of the province of Kand towards the S. The country flat. 2nd. About 11 o'clock a.m., Ganjua, a large open place belonging to Bawshi. All the houses are built of hashish, that of the governor alone being of earth. The country mountainous, with many springs and pools of water. Large numbers of palm trees. 2nd. About Aser arrive at Yakoba. Road through a mountainous country. From. Kdtab to Yakoba. 1st day. About Aser reach Alhajji, a considerable village belonging to the province of Zaria, and situated at the W. foot of a mountain. All the road through forest. 2nd. About noon arrive at Sabo-n-birni, a small village built of hashish. The road is partly covered with forest and partly cultivated ; but there are no villages, the people during the rainy season coming from a great distance to cultivate the country. 3rd. About noon reach Rime, a considerable place, surrounded by an earth-wall, situated where the roads from Kano and Kdtab meet. A market is held here every Tuesday. 4th. About 1 o'clock p.m reach Ambutu, a village situated at the foot of a mountain, on the top of which there is another place of the same name. The inhabitants, who are very ferocious, pass a bone through their mouth. They do not pay tribute to the Fellanis, and constantly interrupt the communication, as is just now the case. There is a rivulet near the first village which runs into the Gurara, one of the tributary streams of the Kwara. The whole road through forest. 5th. About 1 o'clock p.m. reach "VVarji, a village situated at the foot of a large mountain winding round far to the W., on the top of which there are other villages of the same name, whose inhabitants wage war against the Fellanis, having [lately ?] killed the eldest son of the governor of Kano, to whom the inhabitants in the valley pay tribute. There is a particular kind of cattle here calk-d Mutiiru, smaller than the ox, with shorter legs, and without the hump of fat on its back. 6th. About Aser reach Malanlawel, a considerable place with an earth-wall, situated in the plain at the S.E. foot of the large mountain or mountain-range already mentioned. The whole country is laid out in cultivated fields. 7th. After Aser arrive at Sarauda. The road partly wood and partly cul- tivated. 8th. At noon Yakoba. Route from Kand to Kuka, by the way of Khadeja, or the Middle road, there beitnj three roads, viz., by Katagum or the Southerii, by Khadrja, and by Guniinel. 1st day. About 1 p.m. reach Gddia, a walled place, where the governor of Kand has a house. 78 Mission to Central Africa. 2nd. Half-past 1 o'clock p.m. reach a place called Gaia, after having passed at about 1 A.M. a large Wadi, wliich has water only in the rainy season. 3rd. About Aser arrive at Dutshi, after having in the morning crossed a stream called Dedurru, and about an hour before midday an almost deserted place called Katii-katii. 4th. About Aser reach Zogo, a large open place, after having in the morning crossed the Kadwana, which runs towards Katiigum. Many small villages on the road. .'ith. Before Aser reach Khadcja, a large place, the residence of the governor, surrounded by a wall of great extent, but not inclosing so large an open area as Katshna or Kanu. The entire space however within the walls is inhabited. The houses consist of collections of circular huts and sheds of hashish surrounded by a mud wall. This is the last place on the road from Kanu where marinii or dyeing with indigo is met with ; but there is no other business carried on here, as the in- habitants employ tliemselves in roving expeditious or razzias, for which the position of the place is favourable. To the S. of the town is a Wadi running down towards Bede, with pools of standing water during the dry season, the banks on either side being laid out in corn fields. 6th. About U o'clock reach Gan'mgabbes, a walled town smaller than Khadeja, on the other side of which commences the territory of the Sheikh. The whole country through which you pass is divided into numerous small villages. 7th. At Aser arrive at Allamego, a deserted place. The whole country covered with forest. 8th. About 1 o'clock p.m. reach Kalemn', a large place situated in a sandy plain and surrounded by a wall built of sand, the houses being of the usual materials. As far as Bendi, a place surrounded by a wooden fence and belonging to the Gala- dima(?) of Bornu, the whole country is covered with wood. At this place the pro- vince of Manga commences. 9th. Reach Donari about Aser, a large place surrounded by an earth wall ; after having passed a small Wadi called Wani about 1 o'clock p.m. There is no village on the road, and all is covered with wood. 10th. Arrive about half-past 1 p.m. at Anganawen, a place of middling size, with an earth wall. All the country covered with wood. 11th. lieach an open place or valley, about half-past 11 a.m. The houses consist of earth and hashish. The entire road through forest. 12th. About noon arrive at Kusselua, an opeu place. The whole country covered with wood. l.'Bth. About 4 o'clock p.ini. an open place called Kashimma, situated on the side of a Wadi, which comes down from Katagum, and passing by Mikibii joins the Yaw. In this Wadi there are pools of standing water during the dry season, and its banks are laid out in corn fields. The whole country wilderness. 14tli About 1 P.M. Mi'kiba, an open place, situated on the same Wadi. No cultivation on the road. 15th. About 1 o'clock p.m. reach a well called Kaskawa, where you encamp. No village, but shepherds. 16th. About the same time arrive at an open place called Kinshandi. This day you pass some small villages on the road. 17th. Keach a considerable open place called Bua, a domain of the Sheikh of Boruii, whose slaves cultivate the fields. On the road are numerous villages, and the whole country in cultivation. 18th. Ik'tween 11 and 12 o'clock arrive at a small village called Kangarrud. Numerous villages. 19th. About Aser reach Kahlua, after having passed many villages ou your road. You here see the trees of Kuka. 20th. In about two hours arrive at Kuka. Northern Route from Kan6 to Khadeja. 1st day. A little after midday, Gezawa, a walled place with huts of hashfsh. All the country cultivated. 2nd. About Aser, Ziikcn', a large walled place, the houses of which are built of "arth and hashish. Many villages on the road. Mission to Central Africa. 79 3rd. A little before sunset reach Ki'lli, a considerable walled place: the bouses as well as the wall being built of earth. Only a few villages on your road. 4th. About Aser arrive at Merku, a large walled town built entirely of earth. You pass many villages, all belonging to the province of Khadeja. 5th. About an hour before noon reach Askandu, a large open village, with huts of hashish. 6th. Early in the morning, about 9 o'clock, reach Khadeja, after having passed many villages. Route from Kano to Kiika, by the way of Giimmel. 1st day. A little after midday Gezawa. 2nd. About 10 o'clock a.m., Gabesawa, an open place with a considerable market, ■which is held every other day, as is also the case with Gezawa, so that there is every day a market at one of these two places. 3rd. In about three hours reach Kuka-merua. 4th. About Aser arrive at Gerki, a large walled place ; the houses consisting of earth and hashish. In the morning you pass a small open place called Amagua, and about an hour before midday Duko, a village situated in the midst of the wood. 5th. About 2 o'clock p.m. reach Gi'mimel, the first place belonging to the Sheikh, surrounded by a wall of earth, and a wooden fence, as likewise by two ditches, oue inside and the other outside. Its Sunday (liihedi) market is important, though there are no manufactures in the town, which is the residence of tlie former governor Daw Tanuma. About 9 o'clock in the morning you pass an open village called Delladi, and further on a walled place called Birmenawa. Gummel, March 13, 1851. — Here in this place, where I arrived yesterday, ac- companied by a very amiable and well educated Sherif from Fas, I continue this itinerary, which, as far as I have seen, is very correct, with the exception that there is a market here on Friday, Saturday, and Sunday ; the most important being that on Saturday. 6th. About half-past 1 p.m. reach an open village called Mai Magaria. The whole country is cultivated, and there are a few small villages on the road. The fields contain only a few large trees. 7th. Between 2 and 3 p.m. arrive at Taganama, a large place surrounded by a wooden fence. On the road you pass a deserted place called Fernaski, which has been plundered by the people of Khadt'ja. 8th. About 1 p.m. reach a small walled place called Ingleri, belonging to the governor of Mashna. The country covered with large trees. 9th. Miishna, a town of the same size as Tasawa, surrounded by a wooden fence, situated at the S. base of a considerable hill, while also towards tlie S. there is another hill of less size. The houses consist of earth and hashish. The market is held on Sunday. The present governor is liarma Kakami. 10th. About 1 P.M. reach a small village called Berturi, after having in the morning passed Gogi, an open place situated at the foot of a mountain, and governed by the brother of the governor of Miishna. 11th. About 11 A.M. arrive at Sullen, a large open place belonging to the governor of Minyo, with a market on Friday. In the morning you pass Se'ggrari, a small village. 12th. lu the morning reach a considerable place called Bon(', situated at the S. base of a large bill, with the house of a governor. The country woody. 13th. About Aser arrive at Tiingule, a village with plenty of date trees, situated at the S.W. foot of a mountain or hill. The road lies through a country covered with wood, but about an hour before midday you pass a village called Gasem, situated on a hill. 14th. About 9 A.M. reach Minyo, a large open place situated in the midst of the sand, and consisting entirely of hashish, witli the exception of the bouse of the governor, Ibrahim Ko'so, who has to deliver the tribute to jVbder liahnian, the brother of the Sheikh of Boruti. A c(msiderable market is held here on Friday. 15th. About 11 A.M. reach Kadahilfua, a large open place belonging to Manga, situated in a Wadi contaijiing numerous trees, the country, which is all sand, 80 Mission to Central Africa. being in general open. Mncli trona (natron) is found here, and constitutes a very important branch of trade -witli Njffi, by t!ie way of Kano. 16th. About the same time reach Beri Bershi, a now deserted village, situated on a Wadi where there is good salt. The entire country is one open sandy plain, with isolated hamlets. 17th. About 1 P.M. arrive at Katafuliram, a small deserted village. All the country consists of sand without trees. ISth. About 1 P.M. reach Dembaram, a large place belonging to the district of Astcka, situated in the sand, and built entirely of the reed of the ghussub. 19th. About Aser reach Berberua, a large walled place. The whole country is nothing but sand. No wells. 2Uth. Early in the morning, between 9 and 10 o'clock, reach Debaggo, a small village situated on a branch of the river Yaw, which is dry in summer. In addi- tion to ghussub and onions a little corn is cultivated here. There is no more sand, and the soil is fertile, the country being covered with trees. 21st, Encamp at what hour you please, in a district called Kuiiam, consisting of many small villages. 22ud. Encamp in the same district with the tribe named Mebber. 23rd. About 1 p.m. reach Buii, the country densely peopled. 24th. About 11 a.m. encamp in the district called Kagarrua. 25th. At Aser, Kalilua. 2Gth. Early in the morning arrive at Kuka. If you desire to take a sboiter road, and not go by Minyo, you proceed direct from Mashna, and between 11 and 12 o'clock reach Bendi on the Khadeja road — this road by Giimmel, Mashna, Bendi, &c., being at present the general caravan road between Kanu and Bornu, as it is by far the safest. Secofid Letter from Dr. Barth to Mr. Petermann. Route from Kano to Toto, via Zaria, 1st day. The direction S.W. as far as Zaria, then S. 2nd. Between 10 and 11 a.m. reach a place called Madobi, with a market. 3rd. Between 9 and 10 a.m. reach the town of Bebeji. 4th. About 1 P.M. arrive at liimi-n-Kawra, a number of villages, with a rivulet, running eastward. .5th. About 9 A.M. reach Baki-n-Kilminda, a group of scattered villages. 6tli. About 11 A.M. reach a walled town, called Dansushia, rich in date trees. Here is the frontier between the province of Kano and that of Zaria, marked by a large wadi, dry in summer. 7th. A little after noon reach a small river running eastward, but afterwards turning to the S., and uniting its waters witli those of the Kadiina, which receives all the water of this part of the country. The river is called Kubiitutu, and there is a village on its bank, called .■\nsh6. 8th. About 11 A.M., after a journey through a woody country, reach Riima, a large place, but thinly inhabited, and with the walls in a state of decay. 9th. About the same time you reach a walled place, called Likoro, where there is a market evei'y other day. All the country is thickly wooded, and not culti- vated. Kitli. Between 9 and 10 in the morning, after having crossed a river, which sometimes in the rainy season it is difficult to pass, you arrive at Zaria.* 11th. Between 11 and 12 a.m. arrive at a village called Ungua Arende. Small water-pools on the road. 12th. About 11 A.M. reach Kasellu, a walled place, with the wall in a state of decay, and with a market held on every other day. 13th. About the same time at Gi'mba, a large walled place, but thinly inhabited. 14th. lleach Matari, a large place. Between Gimba and Miitari, nearer to the latter place, there is a wadi, which during the rainy season can only be crossed in boats. * Though Clapperton proceeded on this road as far as Zaria, there are many new particulars in tliis itinerary. Mission to Central Africa. 81 15th. Kabi, a considerable walled market-place. IGth. Reach a small village, called Kasabo, situated on a mountain range running eastward. The whole country is mountainous, and a little before you reach Kasabo there is a high mountain with another village on its top. 17th. Encamp .in the forest called Dawa serki-n-Fawa, where there is a wadi, dry during the hot season. 18th. A small village of the district Kadara. plundered by the Fellanis. 19th. During the dry season you reach a place called Tere, while in the rainy season you encamp on the shore of the Gurara, one of the branches of the Kaduna, which cannot be crossed but in boats. The country mountainous. 20th. Eeach a small village called Kamane. Country mountainous. 21st. A small place, called Kateri, situated on a wooded wadi, with water at all seasons of the year. 22nd. A scattered village, called Golaminda, inhabited entirely by Fellanis. The country level, with mountains at a distance. 23rd. Reach Kogaro, a considerable market-place. Country mountainous, irri- gated by many streamlets. 24th. Fajari, a small place with a wall in decay. Country plain, with plenty of water. 25th. liagaji, a considerable walled market-place. 26th. Keffi Abdese'nga, a large place, with a market every day. There is a high mountain to the \V. The country in general is flat. Plenty of streamlets. 27th. Gongdndara, a large place, with a wall in decay. The mountains at some distance. Much water. 28th. Guagua, a place of middle size. A mountain to the E. 29th. Tamma, a large walled place in a plain, with much water. 30th. Ddgeri, a place of middle size, wall in decay, the frontier of the extensive province of Zaria and of the independent kingdom of Tanda. 31st. Ogobe, a large, walled market-place, belonging to Toto. No mountains, but much water. 32nd. Gano, a considerable open place. Country flat, plenty of trees, parti- cularly of those called maja (the gum-tree). 33rd. Arrive at Toto. This place, according to my informant, is of about the same size as Kand ; but is more thickly inhabited, and is divided into two distinct quarters, the Western and the Eastern, the former being inhabited by the natives or the Katawa, who have a distinct language, and are pagans, while the eastern quarter is the dwelling-place of the Moslinis,fviz., people from Katshna, Kand, and Bornii, who have a sultan for themselves, El Iman. According to my informant, El Iman is not thej^Sultan or Governor of the whole town, the town and province of Toto being ung^j the direct government of the Sultan of Tanda, whose name is Shemmage. To the W. of the town there is a rivulet called Rafi-n-Konama, at the foot of a mountain. Three days to the^. of Toto there is a country called Tagara, whose inhabitants, called Katun-karifi * by the Haussa people, bring European merchandise and cowries to the market of Toto. My informant, like every one else in the interior, has no idea of the distance to the ocean, nor does he know anything about the Tshadda, which river is^rtainly identical with the Benue, and must be near to Toto. From Toto to Yakdba there are said to be 7 days. ^ Route from Ginga {Gonja?) to Sdhatu, According to two different informants, one of whom is the same person who gave me the route to Toto ; the other'is a man who has travelled more than twenty years on the Bilad el^S^ldn^or Desert, and is a brother of a servant of Abd Allah Clap- perton. Direction N.E. Road stony. The rate of travelling is slow, and on asses, encamping geijerally between 11 and 12 o'clock. About hours per day. 1st day. '^lasaka,"'a small village; merchandise, kola nuts. 2nd. Viila£;e called Turu. 3rd. A place rather larger, called Kadena, belonging to the district of Yensala. * . _— — . — * Katu-n-kdrafi^ iron district. — Ed. &2 Mission to Central Africa. 4tli. After haviug crossed a river running towards the E., arrive at Kania. 5th. Yendi, a well-known place of importance (Dahomey?). 6th. Sakaigo, a small village 7th. Maizahbi, a small village. 8th. The large town of Sansanimango. Dtli. A small village, called Gdngari-n-gulbi', situated on a water of great extent (U. Galbi?). Idth. A deserted village, called by the caravan travellers Gari-n-mutiim daca. 1 Ith. A small village, called Maitukane. 12tli. Bi'lgii, a considerable place with plenty of gigiiiia, a kind of palm-tree peculiar to Bilad el Sudan. 13th. Villag© called Fellale, built partly upon the rock. 1 9th. Fiimnia, a large place, and the residence of an independent sultan, who wages continual war with Borgu. The language is not Fellani, but a retana or gibberish. From this place the territory of the Fellanis begins. 2Uth. Kure, a small place. 21st. A place called by caravan travellers (jari-n-maifari-n-doki. 22nd. A place called Majuri, situated at the northern basis of a mountain. Hereabouts is a river called Kafa-n-gora, which is sometimes crossed by swimming on skins. 23rd. A place called Sudumelli saho. 24th. Encamp near to Sudume'lli sofo (old), a large but deserted place. 25th. A considerable town, called Diigu, situated near to a river called Makura. 2fJth. A village whose name my informants do not recollect. 27th. A place of middle size, called Kurkujangu. 29th. I?aki-n-Kiimba, a large place situated on the W. shore of the Kawara. Here are a great many boats. 30th. Cross the river towards the E., and encamp near Baki-n-r6a, a small place on the opposite shore 31st. Foga, a place of middle size, but thickly inhabited on account of the excel- lent red salt which is found here, and constitutes an important article of trade. 32nd. A small village called Bengo. 33rd. Ye'Uu, a large place with a wall of earth ; the first walled town on this road. 34th. A village called" K6ka. 35th. Another walled town, called Gulma, 3Cth. Encamp in the district called Giiwasu, from which the walls of Birni-n- Kebbi are visible in the distance to the right. 37th. Encamp in the same rich and thickly inhabited district, full of cattle and rice. 38th. Still the same rich district. 39th. You arrive at Sakatu. Itinerary from Karnak Baghrimmi to Bang-bay. 1st day. Massena, a large place of Baghrimmi. 2nd. Arrive at the river Ba-ir, which runs eastwards, and is called so after a town of the name of Ir, situated on the other side of the river. (Ba means water, river.) 3rd. Batshikam, a small town belonging to Baghrimmi. 4th. Early in the morning reach Garam, which you leave in the afternoon about 2 P.M., and sleep in the forest. .')th. Liiffana, situated on a watercourse running E. f;th. Embarked in a boat, followed the river, and slept on its bank. Does not remember the name of the rivei*. 7th. Reached Biiso in the morning, a considerable place, with a powerful sultan. 8th. Mini, an island in the Shiiry, with a great many boats. The river is full of crocodiles, and the inhabitants do not venture to go near, but fetch water from a well dug expressly for this purpose at some distance. 9th. Haldnga, a place under the same government as Buso. 10th. A large town, called Tabc, inhabited almost entirely by Mohametaus. 1 1th. Gadiing, a village whose inhabitants are pagans. 12th. Kiar, a small village. Mission to Central Africa. 83 13th. A considerable place, belonging to the powerful sultan AH Fnijar. All these places are entirely built of hashish, or rather ghussub straw. The country is rich in horses, and is one level. 14th. The residence of Sultan Bang-Dam. The country is flat, and is covered with small villages, shaded by fine trees. The soil sandy. All the inhabitants are naked, excepting the sultan, who wears a robe. Their principal food is horseflesh. 15th. A large place in the province, called Isemrai, the residence of the sultan, Baug Wonja. The soil is here clayey. 16th. Another town of Isemrai, the residence of the sultan Bfirso. Soil continues clayey. The wells are from two to three fathoms deep. Ghafuli is the principal produce and food. Some large trees. 1 7th. The sultan Fatshang Gongawe, whose country is thickly inhabited. There are a great many valleys, dry except in the rainy season, when the country is im- passable. 18th. After a long day's journey arrive at Gabberi, a large place. All these petty kingdoms make war on each other, and the inhabitants kidnap each other. Nearly all these people, from the beginning of Isemrai, eat their dogs, though they have plenty of cattle as well as of horses. Their idol is a tree of the kind of jume's, as the Arabs call it, round which they kill dogs and sheep, while they make a dreadful music by beating on dried skins. They are not armed with bow or spear, but only with the sling, which they call jigaji in their own language. 19th. Arrive at Korin iiina, a large place, residence of the sultan Koina. It is strongly fortified for this country, being first surrounded by an earth wall, then at a greater distance by a fence of wood, outside of which there is a ditch skirted by trees. The town is surrounded by a great many villages. The inhabitants, pagans of course, wear nothing but a girdle of leather. The principal produce of the country consists in beans. 20th. Enter another territory, called Sara, belonging to the Sultan Gdsdega, who resides in a large open place. Here, besides beans, plenty of ghussub and gha- fiili is cultivated ; and a tree grows here, which is of great use to the inhabitants, who not only eat its fruit, which resembles dates, but use its pith instead of butter and oil : it is called taber, and has a large top, but small leaves. 21st. Reach Sartingakumra, another place belonging to Gdsdega, who is quite independent. The inhabitants drink the water of a standing pool. 22nd. After a good day's journey arrive at Sard bedai, residence of the Sultan Sariii, who has plenty of cavalry at his command. 23rd. Yaldting, inhabited by people of the great tribe of the B(ia. 24th. Arrive at a place called Gamkul. The country has now changed, and has acquired another aspect ; for instead of clay, the soil consists of sand ; and instead of a monotonous plain, where water is only obtained from wells, the country is mountainous, the mountains and hills being covered with trees, and rivulets rushing down from them. It is thickly inhabited by elephants, giraffes, lions, and swine ; this latter animal constituting the principal food of the inhabitants. 2.5th. After having crossed the mountain range, arrive at a place called Dan Madobd,' situated at the southern base of the mountains, and the residence of the Sultan Gare. Cotton, durra, and ghafuli are cultivated. 26th. Dan Bebe, the residence of Sultan Gargoda. In this part of the country there are no watercourses but in the rainy season ; produces cotton and ddrra. 27th. Kome, in a mountainous country. While the fields are on the slopes and tops of the hills and mountains, the inhabitants live in the valleys, not retiring to the mountains but in case of war. 28th. Kdmarc', with a few Mahometans. No dress but a girt round the loins. A rock is their idol. Country mountainous. 29th. Andf, after a whole day's journey. The people, called Sujiga, surpass their neighbours in civilization ; for they dress not only themselves, but even their horses. The country all mountainous. 3()th. Burda, situated on a lake of great extent, considerable depth, and full of fish ; enclosed by mountains all round. It is called Garmtiuga. 31st. Tiimki, in a mountainous country, producing durra, besides which the inhabitants live principally on lizards, which they cook. They are all Pagans, of a dark black colour, armed with spear and arrow. While the men wear clothes, at least a shirt, the women go naked. g2 84 Mission to Central Africa. 32nd. Guberd, whose inhabitants go naked. The country mountainous, coverei with many trees. 33rd. My referents reached Bang-bay, situated on the south bank of a large river running eastward, and called here Babay, that is to say, the river of Bay. There are a great many boats on the river, and it is full of fish. Bang-bay is the residence of the Sultan Sara Guli. The people live like animals, and are only armed with slings. My referent, or rather one of the two brothers, viz., Agi't Burku, though he made a stay of three years at Bang-bay, could not give me any information as to the countries farther to the S. But lo satisfy my curiosity lie brought to me a son of his Majesty the King of Bang-bay, by name Tikorkum Kasemtii, who condescended for a few cowries to sing and dance before me after the fashion of his country : I am sorry to say, however, that the prince's intellect was not clear enough to give me much information. Besides a few words of his own language, I could only make out the names of four countries or districts to the S. of Kang-bay, with the names of their respective petty sultans. These are Tshik- ikana, with the Sultan Nie Dau tshin Bay kobbo ; Urdauje, with Bay Kobele; Negere, with Ingigge du Kuddu ; and Jiggiktibera, with Sultan Bang Umkaiji : this last is a large place. All these districts and towns (for the name represents both) are on or not far from a very large lake, called Inji koro. On anxiously inquiring after this lake I was told that there were seven such waters almost parallel to each other farther to the S., the names of three of which are Inji Kemada, Inji man- made, and Inji mantu. A few Words of the Bang-bay Langt tage. English. Bang-l)ay. English. Bang-bay sun kar horse ngella moon nai elephant dakir stars koeyd sheep biuan je'lleba heaven tar pig beri rain injiketar dog bissi God (idol) Omaji lion tobai rainy season bar milk imba dry jenne durra wa wind m61a milla baig spear ninga fire puriiiallaba sling mia water inji, man dress kobfi man dmga guest, friend baje people bemea enemy jejangeje father babunja good miijibai mother kome bad koral ■woman denetema ? warm wulbadi head daigelle cold otoko eye kamtd to-day binn^tema ear duda to-morrow barahnga mouth taribeglem come, imp. ideromto heart mumttim go, imp. aw Route from Timbuktu lo Sakatu, by Mohammed el Aiiaia, who performed the journey in quick marches. In eight days reached Humberi, a large town situated on a mountain, with a considerable market every day. According to Mohammed el Anaia, Humberi belongs to the Fellani residing in Timbuktu, and the language is likewise Fellani ; but, according to another traveller, the language is identical with that of Timbuktu. 15. In 7 days, Harbilnda, at the foot of a mountain : it belongs to the Fellani, but not to those of Sakatu. It is situated on a tributary of the Kawara river. 16. In 1 day, Elbetdko, a large place, with considerable market, under Khalilu, who resides in Gandu. 20. In 4 Jays, Tankdla, a large place, and residence of the sultan Abu-1-Hassan. 24. In 4 days, Sei, a large place on the banks of the Kawara, where the same language is spoken as in Timbuktu. Mission to Central Africa. 85 31^. In 7^ days, Gdndu, the residence of Al Khalili's, larger than Sakatii. 34. In 2^ days, Sakatii. Route from El Dm to Timbuktu, according to Dara el Sacktanieh, who performed this journey nine times: quick marches — halts not taken into account. 1 day's journey to the well of El Mengiib ; arri\ ed there about 1 o'clock p.m. 55. On the fifth day to Thilb-il-belt, a village with Kasr, and a plantation of palms, fig, almond, and fruit trees, with springs. Residence of the Ueled Sidi Hdj el' Arbi. 11. C days, the well Dissia, with water convenient and good. 15^. 4^ days, the well Shenashan ; sandy desert, heights in the distance. 20. 4i days, the well Tdgminnant, with good water. 24. 4 days, TaiJdeni, said to be a considerable place, with houses of earth. The chief of the place is the Kaid Sin. Salt, of excellent quality, is found 4 feet below the surface of the ground, and is exported in pieces about 4 feet long, 1^ feet broad, and upwards of 1 foot thick. 27J. 3^ days to the well, Agilt el Khand-shish. 29. 1^ days to the deep well, Undn. Good water. 34. 4^ days, Arauan, a considerable place, with market : the inhabitants Arabs. From Arauan to Timbuktu 5 more days. A few Words of the Timbuktu Language.* English. Timbul(ti'i. sun waina moon hendu heaven bmi fire ndni rain bana lightning hirri water haeri year njiim day silri month hendu to-day hanuo to-morrow soba yesterday bikigi the day after ^' ■ sobaschi morrow man har woman wai son isakaina daughter waikaina brother nehar mai sister newai mi father nibiiba mother nia horse beri camel yu ass filrka mule alimb^a sheep figi goat henki dog hc'utschi lion koro jackal hentschi f the Borntiese milk ini grandson J sour milk denam son-in-law amit millet fi'o daugliter-in-law amird corn miaw grandfather kilgai meat grandmother biru house head k>i hut eye yii boat ptim ear simoimon oar tui^n mouth gai spear lai lip, upper gai ngedai arrow karni'gi lip, lower gai nge fari good ngiUa (Born. ?) tooth sannai bad abi tongue telani (Born.) warm jerau front bahan cold sdmar hair nji'ggo to day tinauim tattooing billa yesterday tshoro chin k(mimodu to-morrow bdli (Born. ?) neck wui where jiimeni throat gurgutd here ungojd nose tshanai yes jai face bahan no aio breast engdun I see wammem'in blood ki I hear wuhu'mmai intestines and^ 1 eat wuhum heart gaigo I drink wushi'n 1)Oues hai I go wual marrow tshebid go, imp. bt-l shoulder ilngurd they go bi'llam back kaia I come wuaw upper arm bibikd come aw under arm ushime * Dr. Latham has compared this vocabulary with others, and finds that of all the known languages of Africa the Budduma resembles most closely the Affadeh. — Ed. Mission to Central Africa. 87 1 . Route from Sakatu to Timbuktu, accordiug to the learned Sherif Ahmedu. (From Sukoto, direction W.) 1st day. Birni Tozo, situated on the river of Sukoto, which here passes between two mountains, one of which is situated to the N. and the other to the S. Ttizo is a place consisting of four or five separate villages, the houses being built of earth in their lower and of reed in their upper part. Vou arrive at Aser, the whole country which j'ou pass being thickly inhabited, and most rich in cattle. 2nd. Birni Silamin, a well inhabited place, having a wall in decay ; the people dwelling outside of the town since the Fellani conquest. Arrive between 1 and 2 o'clock p.ji., after having passed a great many villages. 3rd. Keeping always on the northern side of the river of Sukoto (called Gindi), which runs due N. Arrive about Aser at the town of Awgi', consisting of two sepa- rate quarters, but inclosed by one wall. The market is held between the town and the river. The town belongs to the kingdom of Sokoto Gaudo, the residence of Khali'li being distant 2 days to the S.E. 4th. Giilma, a large walled town, situated on the northern shore of the river of Sokoto, which is always to your left. The town, belonging to Kubbi, is inhabited by an energetic set of people. Arrive before noon. 5th. A small village called Koido, about noon. All the country well cultivated, and plenty of villages. Cross the river in the morning and lose sight of it. 6th. Kuka, a walled place, of middle size ; houses, except the house of the go- vernor, are built of reed. Arrive about noon. The direction always W. 7th. Birni Debe, a walled place, but thinly inhabited ; the wall being in decay. Salt is found here under Gando. 8th. Fiiga, a group of villages, situated on a wadi running S.W., and always confciining water. The place is famous on account of its salt, which is dug on the border of the wadi. Arrive between 1 and 2 o'clock p.m. Between Debe and Fuga the land is uncultivated. 9th. Birni Kebe, a place of importance in former times. Kebe is the first place of the country of Zaborma which you reach on this road ; while more to the N. this country stretches farther E. into the neighbourhood of Awgi'. The language of Zabernia is the Songhai, the same as that spoken in Timbuktu and Aghadez. loth. Arrive at Tebe, a walled place, at present inhabited 0)ily by a Fellani, who levies the tribute on the villages scattered around. Between Kebe and Tebe, and between Fiiga and Kebe, the country is not cultivated. 11th. Arrive at Tamkala, a large place, built entirely of reed, with the exception of the house of the governor There is here a rivulet close to the town, running N.W. The whole counti-y which you pass on your road is thickly inhabited. Arrive between 1 and 2 o'clock p.m. 12th. Sai, a considerable place, of great importance on account of its situation on the Kawara, or Gi'mbala, or Isa, which you cross in boats before entering the town. 1.3th. Tshirgu, a considerable place. Arrive at sunset, after having passed many villages. Have left, the 14th day, a large town governed by the sultan Malu, or Madu. A short day, like the foregoing. The whole country flat. 1.5th. Tene, a town properly belonging to Giirraa, a province of Moslii, but now under Sultan Malu. The inhabitants have a peculiar language (that of Moshi'O. 1 (ith. Another place belonging to Gurma. All short days, of from C to "5 h. travelling. 17th. A considerable place called Merkebiigu, inhabited by pagans, and governed by two different sultans, the one a Fellan, the other a native from Giirma. 18th. Birni M^izu, built entirely of wood. 19th. Yaga, dependent on Khali h'. 20th. The frontier place of the territory of Yaga. 21st. Sleep in the Khalla. 22nd. Early in the morning arrive at a straggling village. The whole country flat ; no streams of water. 23rd. Arrive at a place belonging to the territory of Libtako. 24th. Lihtako, a large town, situated on a small streamlet running into the Kawara. It is the easternmost place of the kingdom of Khalili, upon wnom Ibra- him, the governor of the town, is dependent. Superior horses, being the finest he 88 Mission to Central Africa. had seen even in Marocco. Ibrahim is alile to liring a thousand horse into the field, but is continually engaged in fighting with the Tawarik and tlie Auelimniiden. 25th. Sleep in the Khalla. 26th. Arriliinda, a large town, situated between two hills, and ruled by a son of Mohammed Ldbbu, whose family governs all the provinces on the middle course of the Niger from Arribinda and Timbuktu as far as Jinne. From Arribmda you see the mountains of Humberi to your right, towards the E.N.E. 27th. Leaving Humberi far on your right, you reach the first town of Ilamdal- Kihi, a place of middle size, built entirely of earth, as is the mode of building through all this country from hence eastward; the height of the rooms being just that of a man. The country mountainous, but the road level, the mountains being on both sides. 28th A considerable town called Jilgod. The inhabitants, though Moslims, belong to the sect called Matezila, and have very peculiar ideas. On your whole road you leave the frontier of the extensive kingdom of Moshi about a day's journey to the S. 29th. A considerable place belonging to the territory of Jilgod. .3()th. A place called Liiro, whose houses, built one close to the other on the out- side, form a kind of wall. All the water taken from wells. 31st. A place called Mundoro, situated between mountains, accessible only from the N.E. 32nd. A group of villages, called Bone, entirely inhabited by Fellani, and situated in a mountainous country. 33rd. Dalla, situated at the foot of a mountain, and governed by Modum Belaia, who has about ,500 horse. The Fellani here have preserved their former energy and martial spirit ; and do not wear wide clothes like those established in Haussa, but tight ones, more resembling our close shirts. 34th. Reach Uuenza, a large town, situated at the foot of a mountain, at the summit of which there are pagans. A stream of fresh water rushes down from it. The country is mountainous, but the mountains are isolated. From Duenza you behold the highest top of the Humberi mountains, called Walu, about 2 hours to the N., of equal height to the Gelawi in the high Atlas. [While Haj Ibrahim continues his route to the W. to Hamdallahi, the Sherif takes here the northern direction towards Timbuktu.] 3.5th. Sleep in a village, where you arrive between 1 and 2 o'clock. 36th. A place inhabited by Bambara people, but under M. L(5t)bu. 37th. Kanima, a considerable place, situated on a tributary of the Kawara, and the residence of a governor. The place is entirely built of earth. The principal food of the inhabitants consists of rice and fish. 3Sth. Before noon reach another small branch of the Great River, where a Tiiarig tribe, called K61iss(ik, have their tents or huts. 39th. Arrive at Saraiyamo, a large town, residence of a governor, and situated upon this tributary. 42nd. Reach Kabera, after a 3 days' short navigation, having embarked at Sarai- yamo ; the road by land being most dangerous on account of the roving parties of the Tuarigs. There arc a great many villages on the banks of the river. 43rd. After a 3 hours' march, through deep sand covered with wood, you reach Timbuktu. There are three different sultans in Timbuktu ; one belonging to the Fellanis, one to the Tuarigs, and one to the Arabs. The Fellani 45 years ago entered Timbuktu. The Tuarigs, or rather the Auelimmiden, or Siirgu, are represented by their sultan Nabera, whohasa force of from 7000 to 800(i horse, but who very seldom comes to Timbuktu'. Perhaps still more powerful than these two is Hamed el Bakai, the brother of the celebrated sheikh El Mukhtar, -who from Mabruk had come to Timbuktu, and, supported by the merchants and by his reputation for sanctity, established his authority. He died six years ago, when the Fellanis iu vain tried to expel his brother. Mission to Central Africa. 8D 2 Route from Sakatii to Timbuktu ina Hamdalldhi* according to the Felldni H(ij Ibrahim. (From Sokoto, direction W.) [Before giving the itinerary of Haj Ibraliim, which is not so rich as that of the communicative Sherif, I must observe, that Ibrahim travelled in the rainy sea- son, during which the Kawara inundates all the country around its banks.] 3rd day. In the morning arrive at Gdndo, the capital of those provinces of the Fellani empire which are situated on the lower course of the Kawara, and the resi- dence of Khalili. 5th. Amburso, a considerable town, situated on a small stream. On your road you have hills on both siiles. 7th. Kebbi, a large town, larger than K6ka, the capital of Bormi, situated on a ti'ibutary of the Kawara. The town has six gates. The name of the sultan, who is dependent upon Khali'li', is Othman Magaji. The inhabitants speak the Haussa language. Much rice is cultivated. 12th. Tcimkala, built of reed, but surrounded by an earth wall. On the fourth day after leaving Kebbi you leave the large place called Debe at a short distance to your left. The language of the natives is called by my Fellani informant, Jerma. ■which he says is identic with Soughai, as is really the case, for JtJrma is nothing but Erma. 16th. Sai, a large town surrounded by an earth wall, and in the interior built partly of earth and partly of reed, situated on the W. shore of the river. The lan- guage of the natives is Je'rma, or Songhai. [According to Ibrahim, from Sai there are two roads leading to the W.] 18th. Tshi'rgu, governed by Gelaije, who in former times has been sultan of all Masena, whose sultan is now Sheikh Omar. 19th. Sultan Madu. 21st. Mertebugu, a considerable place. 22nd. Yaga, governed by a Fellani of the name of Sajo ; Fellani and Jerma being the languages spoken in the town. Durra is the principal food of the inhabit- ants. The country is covered with villages, separated here and there by forest. It is rich in trees, and irrigated by small streamlets. 26th. Arrive at Dori, the Fellani quarter near Libtako, ■which is the reason that both names begin to be used for the same place. In Dori, which is built entirely of reed, there is a Fellan governor called Ami'ri. In the rainy season there is a large lake, 2 days long, to the N. of Dori, navigated by boats. 29th. Arrive at Arribinda, a large place, the first one of Masena from the E., but under the Fellani. The natives speak the Songhai language. There is a considerable market held here on Saturdays. The country which you pass during these two days is very mountainous ; and, (hough inhabited, is full of elephants and lions. There are in the rainy season pools of standing water. 32nd. Jilgodi, a large town, whose houses are built of earth and reeds. Only a few hills. Pools of standing water. 35th. F.arly in the morning you reach a middle sized place of Masena called Kobu. The country fiat, and full of fine trees. Much cotton and ghussub. 39th. Umbori (Hiimberi), a large place, in a mountainous country, rich in rivu- lets, and thickly inhabited. 41st. Early in the morning arrive at the large town of Dalla, whose governor is Modi Bole, a Fellani, like most of the inhabitants. 42nd. In the evening Duiinza, a large market-town, in a mountainous country, rich in rivulets, and shaded by large trees. 43rd. About Aser reach Dumbara, a large town. No trade. Razzias. 44th. Niminaba, a middle sized place. Country hilly. 45th. Bore, also a large town. The gardens, which produce cotton, rice, corn, &c., are watered by channels Mountainous. •■ \i\ Hamdu-'lillahi (Praise be to God) was visited by Caillid, who miswrote the name El, Lumdu lilluhi. It was probably the place of pilgrimage visited by Alex. Scott. See Cooley's •' Negroland," Note ICO.— Ed. 90 Mission to Central Africa. 47th. Ti'mmc, a large town, and scat of a governor. On tlie road you behold the Kawara, or rather its inundations during the rainy season, at a little distance to your right. The principal produce is rice. 49th. Keach a town bearing two names, being called Konna by the Songhai people, and Kari by the Fellani. Seat of a governor, and a considerable market- place. 51st. Niakongo, governed by Haj Modi, the brother of Haj Omar, the Sultan of Miisena. During the rainy season the waters of the Kawara approach the town within a short distance. .52nd, early, Fatuma. A mountain is to your left on the load. .53rd. Ilamdallahi, a very large town, the capital of this part of the Fellani empire, whose sultan at present is Ahmedu, the son of Mohammed Ldbbu. A long day's journey. Hamdalh'ihi, which, like Sokot(5, was built by the Fellanis, is at a short distance from the S.E. branch of the Kawara, at the point where Konna is situated, and about 5 hours from Is.ika, which by the Fellani is called Maio Bak'u, or the Dark River, while the N.W. branch is called Maio Raneu, or the White River. But leaving at present the river and the island Rude, inclosed by its two branches, I add an itinerary From Hamdalluhi to Timbuktti, according to a learned man, Haj Mohammed ben Bu-Bakr, a native of Hamdallahi, to which, after an absence of eleven years in Yeman, he is returning. 1st day. Fatuma, a large town, at a great distance from the river, with a consi- derable market. Dukheu and diirra the productions of the soil. The wells very deep, from 60 to 70 dra. A long day's journey, in an easterly direction. 2nd. Uronema, to the N., a large place of the Fellani, belonging to the tribe of the Feraibe, who possess plenty of cattle. The country flat ; mountains towards the S. 3rd. Konna (not to be mistaken for the above-mentioned place of the same name situated farther down the river, and in former times on the island Rude), a large town, at a short distance from the Bahr el Azrck, and is the mai'ket-place for Moshi. The inhabitants of Konna belong to the Songhai^ 4th. Koisa, a considerable place, inhabited by Fellani, with Sheikh Mohammed, and situated close to the river. Rice and dukhen are the principal products. 5th. Sennegebulu, a small village of the tribe Urubo, situated close to the river. Sennegebiilu is the last place of the territory of Hamdalldhi in this direction, and Hamid's territory begins. 6th. Dera, another place of the Fellani, of the tribe Gimbelle, with three sub- divisions, the lujebtube, the Fittobe, and the Andujiga. Their chief is called Si'd. A long day, from sunrise till sunset. 7th. Ummcre, a small village, with a mixed population of Fellani and Songhai people. A short day. 8th. Duka. a village of the Gimbelle-Fellani, far from the river. Between I and 2 o'clock P.M., as in general. 10th. Early in the morning arrive at the large town Giinki, situated upon the river. nth. Korobongo, a small village. 12th. Koro-dingi, another small village, whence a small river, winding towards Guiiki, flows into the Kawara. I4th. Arrive before noon at K'ikuru, a large town, inhabited by Fellani, and governed by Sultan 'Ali. The whole country is thickly cultivated. 16th. Orogonia, a large place, inhabited by Ulemas of the Fellani, and surrounded by a great many small villages. ITth. Kiibara, after having crossed the Kawara. (My informant tells me that Kilbara is almost entirely inhabited by Songhai people.) 18th. Timbuktu. Route from Timbuktu to Homddlldln. ( Westward.) (Slow travelling, about 4 hours per day.) 1st day. Gonia, a group of villages. 2nd. Tshilli, the same. 3 fission to Central Africa. 91 Srd. Kiira, situated on an island in the Blue River, which is crossed. Fine trees. 4th. Dire,* a considerable place on the \V. bank. 5th. Tshuki (Choki), a large walled town on the Lake Tele. 6th. Tindirma, on the river. Tth. Auya, a large group of villages to the N. of the Blue River. (Up to this place the inhabitants are Songhai.) 8th. Fariraaka, inhabited by Fulan. 9th. A village of the Gimbella-Ful^n. 10th. Konari, another of the same. 11th. A market-town, inhabited by the same. 12th. Giroe, a large town. 13th. HamdalMhi. [For the following the Editor is indebted to the politeness of Dr. R. Pauli, Secretary to the Chevalier Bunsen.] The first and greater part of Dr. Barth's Report about Aghades was despatched from Tintellust before the expedition started for the Sudan. The rest arrived, accompanied by letters to the Chevalier Bunsen, dated Kano, Empire of Bornu, 25th and 2Sth of February, 1851. It appears that in the beginning of December last the travellers had left the country of Ahir, and a little after Christmas they crossed at Damergu the frontier of the Sudan. On the 11th of January the three separated. Mr. Richardson went by Zinder straight towards Ki'ika, the capital of the Emperor of Bornu ; Dr. Over- weg made a geological excursion to Marraji and Gober; and Dr. Barth proceeded south, wishing, if possible, to explore the country of Adamawa, and the waters that feed the Niger from that hitherto unknown district. Deficiency of means, however, hindered him from going farther than Kano, from whence he intended to take the shortest road to Kuka, in order to join Richardson and Overweg, who likewise had used all their goods, and hoped to find a new sup- ply deposited with the Emperor of Bornii. Dr. Barth's road from Damergu to Kand passed by Tasana and Katshna, through a wild forest land, rendered unsafe by plundering gangs of Fellauis. The Sultan of Katshna, who governs part of the country of the Fellanis, detained Dr. Barth some days, until he extorted from him a high passage money. The power of the Sultan of Sakatii is described as kept up only by the imposi- tion of large tribute upon caravans, the whole country being in a poor and decaying condition, whereas in Bornii a very flourishing state of things is, on the contiary, visible, and European travellers meet everywhere with a kind reception. The land around Kami is very fertile and admirably cultivated, being the richest province of the empire. The season, however, when Dr. Barth paid a visit to this place was very unhealthy. This circumstance, added to the low state of his finances, rendered it necessary for him to hasten on at once to Kuka. Soon afterwards arrived the melancholy news of the death of Mr. Richardson, which took place on the 4th of March, from dysentery, on the road between Zinder and Kiika. Dr. Barth, whose letters are dated Giimmel, March the 11th, and Kiika, April the 3rd, received the intelligence of the death of the leader of the expedition on the 2r)th of March, and hastened on to the capital of Hornii, in order to make the necessary arrangements. Having, upon his arrival at Kiika, found no supplies, he borrowed some money from the Vezir, El Haj Beshir, of whose kind- ness throughout he speaks in the highest terms. On the 13th of April he mentions having i-eceived the gratifying intelligence of the safety of Dr. Overweg, who was on his road to Kiika, and that the latter had written to Professor Ritter, of Berlin, on the 10th of April, from Zinder. On the 28th of the same month Dr. Barth gives a short notice of his first excursion to Lake Tsdd, in the jitnyle surrounding which, he had been on horseback four days — * Said to be the place of origin of the Sonrai (Songhai), who are probably identical with the Ermii, a section of the Senhaja, spread over the whole country towards the E. ^ 92 Mission to Central Africa. half the time in water ; at times up to his horse's back. Owing to the difficulty he experienced in finding the lake, he began to suspect that, after all, it was but a succession of swamps.* After having at length succeeded in penetrating through the mass of jungle, high grass, and forest, he arrived in sight of the lake, and visited the landing places between Angornii and Kawa. On the 7tli November the Chevalier Bunsen received several letters which had arrived at Tripoli with two mails, the latter of which had come all the way from Kiika in the short space of fifty-six days. The dates of the letters are from the 10th of May to the loth of August. It appears that Dr. Overweg, who returned from his expedition to Marraji and Gober by way of Zinder, joined Dr. Barth in Kiika in the first week of May. After having arranged the most necessary affairs of the late Mr. Richardson, Dr. Barth started, on the 29th of May, for Adamawa, tlie Sultan and Vezir of Bornu suppl}'- ing him very kindly with everything necessary. lie proceeded in a south-eastern direction through the country of the Marghi — a heathen negro tribe which sepa- rates the Bornuese from the Fellatas, and supplies the slave-markets of both. They have their own language, and worship in sacred groves ; their principal image being a granite rock in their chief town, Kobtshi. At Mora, the capital of the Mandara country, Dr. Barth first saw the mountains of that name. They are not a connected chain, crossing central Africa from W. to E., but extend into plains towards W., S., and N. The mountain-range which figures on the maps under the name of Mendif, is nothing but a very steep single hil, Iwhich is surmounted by a Fellata village. At Issege, a few miles S. of Mora, he crossed a rivulet coming from the S. and flowing towards the Shary. Uba, the first town of the Fellatas, is about 190 miles from Kuka, at the foot of the mountain, which consists only of huge granite rocks. The country of Adamawa has fine pasture grounds, and produces excellent cattle. The Fellatas till the ground only by means of slaves, which, with ivory, form their principal objects of export. Fifty-two miles farther on is a place called Saraw ; and 34 miles beyond that, not far from Sulleri, Dr. Barth discovered, on the 18th of June, the two principal rivers of Adamawa^— the Benud (undoubtedly identical with the Tshadda, which falls into the lower course of the Niger) and the Faro, both of which rivers join at a place called Taiipe. The Benue, said to be here nine days' journey from its origin, comes from the E. and S.E., is half an English mile broad, and about nine feet deep. The Faro is only half a mile broad, with a depth of from three to four feet. Dr. Barth crossed them both not far from their junction, the first in a canoe, the second on horseback. The very strong current flowed due W. The waters rise from the end of June until the end of September. Dr. Barth reached Yola, the capital of Ad