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 -WITH INCIDENTS IN- 
 
 4-SCOTL^D, ipii^D | E1]GDJII]D^ f 
 
 -BY- 
 
 W. W. WILLOCKS. 
 
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 l'RESS OK THE 
 
 UEI'l'iaiCAN PUBLISHING CO 
 
 MAYSVILI,K, KY. 
 
 133R9K&
 
 core 
 
 ,;Ta7"HEN these letters appeared in the columns of the NEW 
 nJ y\[ REPUBLICAN it was not our intention or purpose that 
 ley should assume any other form, and only at the solicitation of 
 umerous friends, even put ihem in this small book form, witl- 
 nt change, in the greatest simplicity of style, unworthy of criti- 
 siD, the whole journey a chain of facts with but little coloring, 
 id many worthy objects and places unnoticed, leaving the south 
 " Europe and the east for the next visit under contemplation. 
 
 Respectfully yours, 
 Maysville, Ky., March 22, 1883. W. W. W.
 
 
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 AND 
 
 With Incidents in Scotland, Ice- 
 land and England, by 
 W, W, Willacks, 
 
 4 
 
 ,T T is nothing unusual, but an incident of al- 
 most daily occurrence, to see a man with his 
 traveling satchel slung across his shoulder 
 ,_and gripsack m hand, starting for Europe. 
 Even ladies are no» by any means backward in getting 
 their sea-faring equipments ready, and signifying their 
 intentions of accompanying their liege lords across the 
 Atlantic. This is well, for a man alone on a journey 
 of this kind presents but a sorry picture without the 
 controlling influence and comforting power of a kind 
 hearted woman Unfortunately, to this miserable, 
 lonely class, we belong, so I am very much afraid the 
 description will Ik- rather dry and commonplace. How- 
 ever, we will do our best, as some other person in the 
 same condition may think of making the trip and may 
 
 461471
 
 2 To Europe and Back. 
 
 be able to derive some benefit from the happenings on 
 the route which we traveled 
 
 Having made up our mind to revisit the land of our 
 nativity, dear old Scotia, on tlie 5th of June, we com- 
 menced to put our plans into execution, so in the com- 
 pany of our genial friend, captain T we stepned on 
 board the good steamer Bonanza, en route for Europe, 
 undecided as to the actual route or steamship line we 
 should take. Leaving and leave taking is not a very 
 pleasant business, so we will omit this sentimental 
 part It is not the leave taking that makes one fee] 
 badly, but the kindly actions, good wishes and hearty 
 band shaking, that causes the heart to throb, and per- 
 haps moisten the eye, however hardened we may he, 
 but although we do drop a tear, it must not he consid- 
 ered uninanlv, for a heart that cannot have some 
 emotional expression of gratitude for kindness received, 
 that person had better stay at home and live and die 
 in his own conceit. As the steamer stood out towards 
 the middle of the liver and sped rapidly down the 
 stream on the bosom of the beautiful Ohio, we could 
 not help casting a longing look on the receding forms 
 of those true, kind hearts, that had gathered on the 
 wharf to say God speed. You need not doubt that our 
 lingering gaze rested on dear old Maysville. the fair 
 little city resting so cozily at the foot of those green 
 Kentucky hills, and not until the dim outlines of the 
 houses disappeared in the distance, could our eyes 
 turn from what we were leaving behind. But, up, 
 merry heart, we must mingle with the shifting world. 
 June the Oth find- us in the Queen City, doing our best 
 to drive a good bargain with the various R. }{. and S. 
 8. ticket agents. Finally, after considerable maneu- 
 vering, we decided on the Quebec route, as it would 
 cost us very little more than via. New York and give 
 us an opportunity of seeing the beautiful and majestic 
 scenery along the St. Lawrence river Having read 
 and heard so much about the pleasures of a sail towards 
 the gulf, we were not disappointed, for it proved very 
 pleasant indeed. Having arranged all of our ex- 
 changes, drafts, &c, which, by the way, ought always 
 to be done before starting, thus obviating all trouble 
 afterw ir.l-j, as a draft on die B ink of England is good in 
 any part of Great Britain, and a letter of credit easily
 
 To Europe and Back. 3 
 
 obtained for any part of Europe, but not for such a 
 small amoun< >s could he given in the shape of a draft. 
 Tlit- cost of tickets to Quebec is J?2H, including meals on 
 board the steamers part of the way, only $10 in excess 
 of via New York. Steamship fare from Quebec to Liv- 
 erpool, is $65 and S40 according to location, but a 
 little discount can he had fr< in tl < se fipuies by holding 
 out a little At 1:30 p. in. we are speeding on the way 
 towards Cleveland. At Crestline an amusing episode 
 occurred which was nearly attended with serious eon- 
 sequences. Two friends had made up their minds to 
 have a drink while the ears were waiting. The one 
 was from the Faderland and the other a worthy repre- 
 sentative of the Emerald Isle Fritz Hummel) invites 
 Mike to have a beer. The persuasive eloquence of Mr. 
 Hummed so hegui'ed the ear of his friend, and wasted 
 the time, that neither of them noticed that the train 
 was in motion. On becoming aware that he was being 
 left behind, Mike shouted at the top of his voice (which 
 hv the way was equal to the whistle ot a locomotive) 
 " hould mi Mr. conductor, plaze, we are going along 
 wid yees." " Oh, mine God," yelled Mr. Fritz Hum- 
 med, "youshust he after starting them cars that did 
 not stop. Mine friend Mike must not be left behind 
 a tier he gits aboard." Finally both the cronies were 
 dragged up the steps amidst many threats and curses, 
 and on we sped. Captain T. was happy, be had pur- 
 chased a piece of nice spring chicken, hut we soon no- 
 ticed a frown in his countenance, it proving only to be 
 the wing of a centennial rooster. At 10:15 p. m. Cleve- 
 land is reached. A fine city on Lake Erie, a good de- 
 pot, having the Brush electric lijrht for lighting purpo- 
 ses. We are now on the Lake Shore Road, for Erie 
 and Buffalo. At 1 a. m the former place is reached. 
 Leaving Erie in the distance, we were soon horrified 
 to hear the conductor call out Ashtabula, the name al- 
 most chilled us with horror, however no accident hap- 
 pened this time At 4 a. m. we reach the quaint old 
 city of Buffalo; have five hours to spare and take a 
 look at the city. Observing a door plate with the name 
 Vennor on it, we asked a policeman whetner the 
 weather prophet lived there, but were chilled by the re- 
 ply that it was only a dentist that occupied the premi- 
 ses. June 9; leave at 9 a. m. for Niagara, which place
 
 4 To Europe and Back. 
 
 is reached about 10 a. m. This hour's ride is through a 
 beautiful fruit country, the apple trees being in full 
 bloom, a goo 1 deal later than in old Keutueky. Little 
 need be said of the falls, as they have been so often 
 and ably describe 1 by others. 8 ili *e it to say, then, 
 that they are majestic, g'and, sublime. Leaving the 
 falls at 11 a. m we take the cars and shoot down a deep 
 declivity, the turbulent waters of the Niagara roaring, 
 foaming and hissing beneath us as we rush along 
 its precipices, where we make the connection with the 
 si earner ChiCOra, seven miles below the fall. Here are 
 the remnants of a bridge, which at one time connect* d 
 Lewiston, on the American side, with that of Queens- 
 town, on the Canadian side. This bridge was destroyed 
 by ice in the winter of 1864. As we pass down the 
 river we notice on the heights to the left the Brock 
 monument, with a colossal statue on the top ol the 
 dome. At the mouth of the river are the two villages, 
 Youngstown on the American side, and Niagara on 
 tlte Canadian side. Old forts are to be seen at these 
 places. At 1 p. m. we are speeding across Lake Onta- 
 rio. Captain T. believes he is going to he sick. Ad- 
 vise him to have a good dinner which makes him all 
 right again. Lose sight of land at this point. At '1 p. 
 ni. reach the beautiful city of Toronto, a very tine place, 
 but we have not time to describe it, her majesty's offi- 
 cers eyeing us suspiciously as we stepped from the f ///- 
 corn, to tiie steamer Corsican which was waiting to 
 convey us to Montreal. Here a little discrepancy oc- 
 curs iu regard to our tickets, but all is set right in a lew 
 minutes, when we start across the lake m a north east- 
 erly direction towards Kingston, a strongly fortified 
 place one hundred ami twenty seven miles from Mon- 
 treal. Have very good meals on this steamer, but on 
 the whole we are not favorably impressed with the av- 
 erage Canadian. Although some are kind and couite- 
 OUS, many are cold and austere We are again out of 
 sight of land, piss a very pleasant night, with perhaps 
 pleasant dreams of those we had left behind and bright 
 anticipations of the grand sights awaiting us on the 
 morrow, when we would pass through the Thousand 
 Islands. So, full of these thoughts, let us rest while 
 the good steamer is wafting us over the lake at the rate 
 of twenty miles an hour
 
 LETTER' NO, 2, 
 
 DOWN THE ST. LAWRENCE. 
 
 On June 8th, at 4:10 a. m., we were aroused from our 
 slumbers by the Corsicau blowing her whistle for Kings- 
 ton. Here we found that there would be an hour to 
 spare, so we took the opportunity of seeing a little of the 
 city while the steamer was laying in a supply ol wood, 
 which seemed to be very plentiful at tins point. There 
 are no buildings of particular interest in Kingston, but 
 it is a clean, neat, and apparently well-kept city, with 
 wide streets, good fire department, and extensively 
 fortified, being the third city in the Dominion in this 
 regard. The best hotel in the place is the British 
 American. A settlement was begun here by the 
 French about the year 1762. 
 
 Though the hour was early, yet we had the pleasure 
 of meeting a solitary pedestrian, out no doubt, for the 
 purpose of earning a morning dram. He seemed very 
 polite and anxious to show us the principal places of 
 interest The hands of the clock were pointing to 5, 
 so we gave him a United States dime, and bade him 
 adieu. We were not certain whether our money 
 would pass, l)iii the gentleman appeared to be satisfied, 
 that he could obtain the desired drink for it. We 
 thought so to. The best money in the world ; of course 
 it would pass! We mail some letters at this place, and 
 at 5 a. m. the steamers bell sounded and we again stood 
 out from the pier. Soon leaving Kingston far behind, 
 we found ourselves after breakfast at the commence- 
 ment of the beautiful and justly famous "Thousand 
 Islands." . We were a little out of sorts caused by the 
 curious stiffness of the people at the breakfast table, 
 but all unkind feelings were very soon dispelled by the 
 beautiful sight that greeted the eye in every direction. 
 We were for the time being spell bound, and felt as 
 though we could bow the head in honor of nature's 
 grandeur. Pen cannot begin to give a description ot 
 the grand, magnificent and sublime scenery on which 
 the eye rested, although it looked a little gloomy, and
 
 6 To Europe and Back. 
 
 indeed, rained a little in the early part of the morning. 
 Tt soon cleared off and became bright and pleasant giv- 
 ing us the full benefit of seeing and admiring the beau- 
 ties around us. These beautiful islands or islets extend 
 over a distance of fifty-five miles towards Brockville 
 and Prescott. There are upwards of two thousand of 
 these woody, rocky islets, of every imaginable shape, 
 size and apperance, some being mere specks a few 
 yards in extent, while others covered several acres, 
 thickly wooded and presenting the most charming ap- 
 pearance of rich foliage conceivable We have often 
 seen a panoramic view of this delightful scenery on 
 canvass, but the original far surpasses the efforts of the 
 painter's brush. At times our vessel passed so close to 
 these islands that a pebble might have been cast on 
 their shores. While standing on the bow of the 
 steamer looking ahead, it appeared as if further prog- 
 ress was completely barred, when rounding the points 
 amid winding passages and bays the way gradually 
 opened before us. Again the river seems to come to 
 an abrupt termination but as we approach the threat- 
 ening shores a channel suddenly appears, and we are 
 hurled into a beautiful ampirheatre or lake, apparently 
 bounded on all sides by a soft hank of forest green. As 
 we approach this leafy boundary the scene is changed 
 as suddenly as if by the wand of a magician, and a 
 hundred little isles appear in its place. Endless varie- 
 ties of gay plumaged song birds are fluttering about, 
 exchanging morning greetings with each other Wild 
 fowl are also plentiful Q< ar the larger islands while fish 
 in large quantities and of great size are to be seen sport- 
 ing about in the clear water, giving a good opportuni- 
 ty of seeing them. Of course we could not tell the 
 different species and did not have time to stop to make 
 enquiry, they looked however, as if they might befit 
 for an American to eat if properly prepared. 
 
 A good many cottages, summer residences and beau- 
 tiful villas are to be seen dotted all through these 
 islands. On one of them Mr. Pullman, of palace car 
 fame, has erected a neat summer villa. There are no 
 doubt many romantic stories in connection with these 
 beautiful islands during the war of 1812, and even sto- 
 ries of love and devoted affection are told as happening 
 among them, and, as in every true romance, woman,
 
 To Europe and Back. 7 
 
 always courageous and self-sacrificing, largely figures. 
 But we must not stop to enquire about this, else we 
 may not be able to get back to Europe at all, so pass 
 through these beautiful isles of the lake and reach 
 Brockvilleat 10 a. m., thence making our way to Pres- 
 cott ut the rate of twenty miles an hour, for be it un Jer- 
 stood that our steamer runs on time. In this regard 
 we cannot help thinking of the old Kentucky Central 
 Railroad, always behind time and out of. joint. We 
 are now in the St. Lawrence proper, and swiftly gliding 
 along; at 11:30 we are at Preseott a small place. If you 
 wish to go to Ottawa, the capital of the Dominion, you 
 take the cars at this point, a three hours ride. A little 
 below this place we notice the ruins of a windmill, said 
 to be a celebrated place, hence called Wind Mill Point- 
 We are now nearing the great rapids of the St. Lawrence 
 Atl p. m., we find ourselves passing rapidly down the 
 Long Sault. This is very exciting, the vessel is carried 
 onward without steam at the rate of twenty and twenty- 
 five miles an hour. The water presents the appearance 
 of the ocean in a storm, but the steamer lacks the ordi 
 nary turning and pitching of the sea. Tbe going down 
 hill by water produces a novel sensation. These rapids 
 are nine miles in length. It requires four men at the 
 wheel and the tiller to ensure safe steering Here a lit- 
 tle incident occurred which caused some alarm. The ta- 
 bles had been spread for dinner, when the swift current 
 caught the steamer, causing her to lurch and lean over 
 to one side, scaring many of the passengers and demol- 
 ishing quite a large quantity of crockery and glassware. 
 But we are soon in smooth water again and have a 
 good dinner notwithstanding this mishap. We now 
 pass through lake St. Francis, about forty miles across, 
 atter which we enter tbe Coteau or Cedar rapids. 
 These are not so long as the former, but the passage is 
 very exciting. As the vessel glides from one ledge of 
 rock to another, one holds his breath, as we watch her 
 from the deck, expecting every moment to see and 
 feel her strike. But a careful, steady and skillful hand 
 is at the helm and we pass in safety. 
 
 A little below this the Ottawa river joins the great 
 St. Lawrence. This is a very muddy stream and it 
 runs many miles before it ioses its identity. Next 
 comes the greatest of all, the Laehine rapids, here our
 
 8 To Europe and Back. 
 
 steamer is impelled onward through a narrow opening 
 between massive ledges of rock, a few feet to one side or 
 the oilier, and the vessel would have been dashed to 
 pieces but the strong arm of our pilot takes it fair, holds 
 her steady, and we pass through the last of the rapids 
 in safely. We are now within sight of the spin's, tur- 
 rets and smoke stacks of Montreal, the metropolis of 
 the country. By the way we have now Canadian soil 
 on both sides of the river. The celebrated Victoria 
 bridge looms up in the distance. We watch it very 
 closely as the steamer passes underneath. This is cer- 
 tainly a grand structure, tubular in form, it was with 
 some difficulty that we were able to count the number 
 of piers, our vessel being so swift. The tube through 
 which the trains pass (the Grand Trunk R. R.) rests 
 upon twenty-four piers and is one and one-quarter 
 miles long. We cannot give a minute or lengthy de- 
 tail of this great work in this sketch, for remember that 
 we are hound for Europe, and therefore must hurry 
 along. Suffice it to say, that it is the grandest piece of 
 engineering skill of the century, costing upwards of 
 seven millions of dollars. We a r e now at Montreal, a 
 beautiful city, with fine docks, and splendid buildings, 
 grand hotels, and numerous Catholic religious institu- 
 tions. We have not time to numerate them all, for on- 
 ward is our motto at present. This city contains about 
 ond hundred and sixty thousand inhabitants, and is 
 the largest city in the Dominion. Here we arc trans- 
 ferred from the Corxican to the steamer Montreal, 
 there awaiting us, and leave promptly at 7 p. m.. This 
 vessel is a good deal larger than the former, large ves- 
 sels not being suitable for shooting the rapids, or get- 
 ting up hy way of the canals made for the purpose ol 
 avoiding the swift current. The evening is a little 
 cool, hut pleasant. Have good music on hoard from 
 this point, one of the musicians, who performed on the 
 flute, reminding us very much of our old fliend; Jacob 
 Outten, Jr. The gentleman was very polite and digni- 
 fied, and we tried to think whether we had ever heard 
 of uncle Jake playing on the (lute, hut could not remem- 
 ber of him doing anything of the kind, and so dis- 
 missed the idea as it could not he him. Captain T. I 
 think, engaged him to play several bhiegrass airs. The 
 scenery on this part of the river is not so grand, al-
 
 To Europe and Back. 9 
 
 though very interesting. Our steamer is running very 
 rapidly and on getting up after a pleasant night's rest, 
 we find ourselves among the great timber regions, for 
 many miles the river being full of rafts. Finally the 
 ancient city of Quebec, the Gibraltar of the west, is 
 reached on June 9th, at 6:30 a. m. We have a day to 
 spare here, and secure a good hotel at $1 50 per day. 
 Very good fare, but Captain T. could not relish fresh 
 baddock. We enjoyed it very much, and added his 
 share to our own. ' We took a look at the fine steam- 
 ship that was to convey us across the Atlantic, and 
 picked out suitable berths, after which we have time 
 to see something of this strongly fortified city on the 
 hill. Our friend Captain T. engaged in a desperate 
 flirtation with some young ladies in an Indian bazar 
 store while we were attentively listening to a young 
 lady describing and discussing the merits of an inclined 
 railway, on which we had come down. The next move 
 was to call on the governor general and the princess 
 Louise, who were then staying at the citadel, but we 
 did not see either of them at this time. The hour was 
 too early perhaps, of course we can assign no other rea- 
 son for not seeing them. So we had to be satisfied 
 with examining the guns, ammunition etc., and taking 
 a look at the building in which the royal lady lived. 
 The soldiers seeing us somewhat disappointed, were 
 kind enough to show us a dozen large dogs belonging 
 to the marquis of Lome, and even were so polite as to 
 allow us to peep in at the door of the stables and take 
 a look at the rear part of his excellency's horses. How- 
 ever we were satisfied that this fortress was one of 
 great strength, for our friend who has a knowledge of 
 such matters assured us that there could be no possible 
 way of taking the place unless by reducing it to starva- 
 tion. The people here are for the most part French, 
 with a few Irish in the lower part of the city. Captain 
 T. said he knew very well what the Frenchmen said, 
 but not could not understand what they wanted. On 
 the whole we spent a veiy pleasant day in this historic 
 city, there are so many places of interest that we can- 
 not begin to describe them all. We visited the house 
 and went into the small room in which general Mont- 
 calm held his last council of war, and where he finally 
 died. But we must hurry on and bid adieu to this
 
 io To Europe and Back. 
 
 grand old place. Next morning, June Kith finds us on 
 board the fine steamship, Parisian, of the Alau line. 
 At 9:30 a. m. the moorings are loosened and we stand 
 out towards the middle of the river, under cover of the 
 guns of the citadel. The princess Louise and her hus- 
 band appear on the balcony and wave their handker- 
 chiefs, while a salute or three guns are fired from the 
 fort, our ship returning a similar salute. 
 
 We are now in latitude 4(3° 48' north, and longitude 
 71° 15' west, and finally on our way towards the At 
 lantic.
 
 LETTER NO, 3, 
 
 ON THE ATLANTIC. 
 
 On leaving the grand city of Quebec and its fortifica- 
 tions, we could not repress the strange feeling of sad- 
 ness which came over us, for it was bidding adieu to 
 tne shores of America. 
 
 While in this mood our thoughts turn to the great 
 heroes who figured in the earlier history of the country, 
 who had fought and won their way to fame, and whose 
 names, ever illustrious, will be handed down through 
 the coming ages. Chief among these are the lamented 
 Wolfe, to whose memory the people have erected a 
 suitable monument, Murray, Montgomery and many 
 others whose ashes are resting in peace while the brave 
 spirits are gone to meet the \Jod who gave them. As 
 we drop down the stream there is a good opportunity 
 of viewing the city towering on the heights above us. 
 Directly opposite on the south bank of the river, is 
 Point Levis, where there are also great fortifications 
 and many large guns pointing us towards the sea. 
 There is no annoyance from low water at this point, for 
 the Great Eastern might cruise here at any season of 
 the year, ice in the winter being the only barrier. 
 Nine miles below Quebec and we come to the beautiful 
 cascade or falls of Montmorenci. These falls which are 
 situated in a beautiful nook of the river are considerably 
 higher than Niagara, being over two hundred and fifty 
 feet, but they are not very wide, being only about fifty 
 feet in breadth. We obtained a fine view of them as 
 our boat glided down the river. For a hundred miles 
 on either side the scenery is very pretty indeed, more 
 soft and pleasing than it is some distance above the 
 city. Passing down we notice the river St. Anne as it 
 empties into the St- Lawrence about seventy miles be- 
 low Quebec, thence onward twenty miles more and we 
 are in what is called Murray's bay. A beautiful vil- 
 lage is here seen situated very picturesquely among the 
 frowning hills and wild scenery, the river here being 
 near twenty miles in width. At 10 p. m. our steamer
 
 12 /'(' hurope and Back. 
 
 sounds her whistle, shuts off steam, and lays out in the 
 river opposite Tadousac, a neat little village at the 
 mouth of the Saguenay river, the largest tributary of 
 
 the great St. Lawrence. Here we receive the latest 
 mail for Europe and push on towards the ocean. 
 
 A little merriment took place before retiring for the 
 night and as the fun was not at our expense it was con- 
 sequently the more enjoyable, It appears that there 
 had been several tickets sold in excess of the number 
 of berths, the parties thus crowded out being justly a 
 little indignant, but the officers did all in their po»v e r 
 to make each one comfortable and remedy the over- 
 sight as far as possible, and soon succeeded in having 
 the satisfaction of seeing every one bappy and con- 
 tented with the solitary exception of a portly lady from 
 Chicago, who absolutely refused to be pleased or com- 
 forted. The woman finally became very indignant and 
 abusive. She soon gave the officers to understand 
 wheie she came from, and informed them in a more 
 spirited than elegant maimer that she did not propose 
 to be imposed upon, for she had not lived sixteen years 
 in Chicago for nothing. After all she had to make the 
 best of it, for on board a steamship out at sea you have 
 only one choice, and that is submission, tor you cannot 
 so very easily change steamersat the first way-landing, 
 however uncomfortable your quarters may he. Of 
 course the officers never lose sight of this fact for there 
 is not the least intention on their part of touching term- 
 firma until we reach the shores of Erin. 
 
 Sunday, June 11th, finds us still speeding down the 
 St. Lawrence, the coast or shore on either side being 
 very rugged and the landscape barren, only a scanty 
 undergrowth of dwarfish pine trees covering the dis- 
 tant hills. Although nearly midsummer snow is to be 
 seen in many places among the ravines near the sum- 
 mitt of the niountains. We have divine service at 
 four bells — 10 a. m. — just somewhat as it is on shore, 
 only moderately well attended. At noon the usual ob- 
 servations are made and we find ourselves in latitude 
 45° 22' longitude U2 5 10' the distance run during the 
 last twenty-four hours being three hundred miles or 
 knots, the knot being a little over a mile. Water 
 smooth, weather rather cool, wind west by north, no 
 sickness visible. On June 12th we find ourselves in
 
 To Europe and Back. 13 
 
 the gulf of .St. Lawrence with the water getting rougher 
 and many of our fellow passengers feel themselves just 
 sick enough to be uncomfortable, having but little de- 
 sire to renew the pleasant conversation of yesterday. 
 Even our loquacious friend, captain Tudor, failed to keep 
 up the animated description of the celebrated bluegrass 
 country, and the fine breed of fast trotting horses 
 raised in that region, for he had really grown eloquent 
 on this subject the day before. Although somewhat 
 squeamish we did not become really sick. This sick- 
 ness caused by the motion of the vessel at sea is some- 
 thing that breaks one entirely up and lays them out 
 sooner than any other malady we know of. All kinds 
 of remedies are prescribed for it, both in the way of 
 eatiug and drinking, and partaken of frequently and in 
 large quantities, for you are feeling so badly that you 
 must take something, but from experience and obser- 
 vervation our remedy is different and very simple. It 
 is: do nothing, take nothing in the shape of food, until 
 there be some feeling of hunger, and drink just as lit- 
 tle as possible. Generally about the third day there 
 will be a desire for something to eat; when this feel- 
 ing conies, take a small wine glass full of brandy. 
 This will settle the stomach and alter that you will get 
 along nicely, with health and appetite daily increasing. 
 Weather cool and very foggy. Distance run during 
 the past day, two hundred ami sixty miles, have to 
 shut off steam to guard against accidents. At 7 p. m. 
 lose sight of the coast of Newfoundland and with cape 
 Race disappears the last Of the American continent. 
 Our captain is very cautious and careful, and has wisely 
 decided not to take the nearest route through the straits 
 of Belleisle, for he expected to meet a good deal of ice, 
 and the morning proved the correctness of his ideas. 
 On the 13th of June, at 6 a. m. we see some very large 
 icebergs, and a grand sight it was. The largest one 
 was about one hundred yards over our port bow, in the 
 shape of some old ruinous castle or gothic-built cathe- 
 dral, with many spires and turrets, snowy white and 
 towering many feet above the waves. These gigantic 
 masses of ice are supposed to be two-thirds under water, 
 thus proving very dangerous customers, not giving any 
 warning or paying the least attention to signals, so that 
 great caution has to be used in foggy weather which is
 
 14 To Europe and Back. 
 
 almost certain to be found in this latitude. Many 
 small bergs are to be seen during the day drifting astern 
 of us. 
 
 Here we have the pleasure of making the acquaint- 
 ance of a worthy representative of "Old Caledonia," 
 in the person of old Sandy Campbell, who after forty 
 years sojourn in Canada, like ourself was on his way to 
 pay a visit to his native- land. He was a true Scotch- 
 man and very pleasant company, the broad dialect 
 sounding very familiar in our ears. Many an old story 
 or legend was told by him with great gusto, ami he re- 
 peated sweet Scotch songs and for our benefit sung the 
 " Bonnie House o' Arlie," this being a place we knew 
 well. Many a talk was had about the stormy petrel 
 and mother Carey's chickens, and the habits of sea 
 fowl generally This old friend was capable of produ- 
 cing merriment in any company he happened to lie in. 
 We took observations at noon and found the distance 
 we had traveled for the past day was three hundred 
 and seventeen miles. Heavy swell in the water, 
 weather rather cool, very foggy with head winds ami 
 we shut oft steam after dark. On June 14th the water 
 was smooth again with cool weather and light winds. 
 Great schools of porpoises are seen swimming along 
 with us on the lee side of the vessel, and whales cau be 
 descried blowing in the distance. We are now in 
 what is known to mariners as the gulf stream, the tem- 
 perature of the water indicating that we are now get- 
 ting out of the range of ice. Observations at noon are 
 taken with much difficulty on account of the thick and 
 cloudy weather, but as near as it is possible to ascertain 
 we are in latitude 48° 29' longitude 45° 54' the distance 
 traveled since last observation being two hundred and 
 thirty miles. A cool drizzly rain sets in with the wind 
 north by east. June 15th opens bright with fair winds. 
 Fore top sail set, also fore and aft main trysail shaken 
 out, water a good deal rougher with heavy swell. All 
 the passengers being fully recovered many kinds of 
 amusements are in progress on deck. The day being 
 warm and pleasant, we took the opportunity of exami 
 ning the vessel. It is truly a tine ship of large dimen- 
 sions, length four hundred and fifty feet, width across 
 beam, forty-eight feet, depth fifty-one feet, water line 
 twenty-eight feet. She is propelled by powerful en-
 
 To Europe and Back. 15 
 
 gines, her furnaces consuming one hundred and ten tons 
 of coal every twenty-four hours. The entire structure 
 is built of steel, with water-tight compartments, her 
 
 tonnage registering five thousand rive hundred and 
 fifty tons. The steering gear is also worked by steam 
 having a small engine for that purpose. But we must 
 hurry on and not go into details. June 16th was bright 
 with occasional showers, sea much rougher and a very 
 heavy swell in the water makes it very unpleasant. 
 We take observations and calculate distance traveled 
 since last report which foots up tbree hundred and forty- 
 eight miles. Weather moderate and a little showery, 
 wind fair and very light Saturday, the 17th, is cold 
 and very blustery' with showers. Sea running high. 
 Sail seen last night but too far off for hailing. Our 
 large family are in excellent spirits and have bright 
 hopes of seeing land on the morrow. Wind fair and 
 cool. We signal a steamship after supper by means of 
 lights She proves to be one of the Alan liners outward 
 bound from the Clyde, for Quebec and Montreal. Sun- 
 day, the 18th, we are Hearing land. Still cool and 
 showery. A steamer visible ten miles to starboard, the 
 Montreal, of the Dominion Line, bound for Liverpool. 
 We soon leave her far astern. At 2 p. m. we sight 
 laud, cape Clear, and the dim and rugged outlines of 
 the mountains ol Donegal. By and by the coast of old 
 Ireland is distinctly visible, and at t> p. m. we are pass- 
 ing Inchtrail lighthouse and can also distinguish the 
 celebrated Giant's Causeway. The coast here is very 
 rugged and barren, dangerous rocks stretching far out 
 into the sea. At 8 p. m. we are in loch Foyle where 
 passengers are landed for Glasgow and Derry. Captain 
 T. was a little afraid that the British officers might nab 
 him for a suspect and at first he thought of remaining 
 below, but finally mustered up courage enough to stay 
 on deck and see part of our family disembark, but all 
 passed oft'quietly and no questions asked. We left loch 
 Foyle at 9 p- m. channel a little rough. The country 
 here has a yellowish hue in place of the famous emer- 
 uld green, whole fields being covered with wild mus- 
 tard. The first salute we received from Hibernia was 
 the loud braying of a donkey grazing by the seashore. 
 Monday, the 29th and last Jay, we are in the Irish sea, 
 with tlie Isle of Man on our larboard, a quiet looking
 
 1 6 7'o Europe and Back. 
 
 pastoral spot. At 11 a. ra. we enter the Mersey, and 
 are soon in full view of the famous commercial city of 
 Liverpool. Our ship anchors in the offing and a ten- 
 der carries us to the pier after giving and receiving 
 three ringing cheers. By noon we are again on t&rrcc- 
 firmi, distance from loch Foyle, one hundred and 
 ninety miles, total distance from Quebec, two thousand 
 eight hundred and fifty miles, making the passage in 
 nine days and two hou'\s. Captain T. felt a little un- 
 easy about passing the custom house officers. Know- 
 ing what could be accomplished by a good drink of 
 whisky at home in Kentucky, he thought the same 
 plan would work here, for we overheard him telling 
 the British officer, that he had a drop of real good old 
 Kentucky bourbon whisky. How he succeeded we 
 cannot say, for we were at that moment jostled out of 
 hearing distance. But we do not think that the exam- 
 ination was very strict, even though our friend with 
 his valise slung over his shoulder, did look, to say the 
 least, very suspicious.
 
 LETTER NO, 4. 
 
 FROM LIVERPOOL TO SCOTLAND, 
 
 The city of Liverpool is second to no other port in the 
 United Kingdom for its commerce and tonnage of ship- 
 ping, and especially in its interests in the United States, 
 the number of steamships plying across the Atlantic to 
 the different American ports being perhaps, more than 
 three times greater than any other city in the world. 
 Its streets are moderately wide, the buildings massive, 
 and, to American eyes, altogether too substantial, while 
 the parks and gardens in the suburbs are certainly very 
 pretty. Taking it all in all, one does not observe 
 any material difference in the general appearance of 
 the place from one of the large cities on our own side 
 of ihe Atlantic, but in the country and the people there 
 is very much of contrast, and to this we turn our atten- 
 tion more than in describing large cities and their 
 buildings. This has been done so often and ably by 
 others that it would only be going over the usual tour- 
 ists' route. Our purpose is to see the people, what they 
 are doing, the way they live, and how they fare com- 
 pared with a collide of decades ago ; to do this we 
 must ramble a good deal in the rural districts and 
 mingle with the peasantry. In this there is a good 
 deal of pleasure to be found. 
 
 It is with the deepest regret that we part with our 
 genial friend, Captain T we had the pleasure however 
 of seeing a good many of the sights in Liverpool to- 
 gether. (Jood hotel accommodations can be found here 
 at six shillings, and sixpence, ($1 50) per day, beer extra. 
 Of course the bill of fare is widely different from ours, 
 but very good. Their method of serving meals was 
 not altogedjer new to us, but on the whole it did ap- 
 pear very funny. Captain T. calls for butter cakes. 
 The attendants become nonplussed and suppose that 
 he is speaking in some of the dead languages, for they 
 had doubtless never heard of such a dish before. In-
 
 1 8 To Europe and Back. 
 
 (iced fhoy seemed to have serious doubts of our sanity, 
 but when the captain asked for roasting ears for dinner, 
 they were fully satisfied that he was <>tt' his balance 
 mentally. In explaining that it was corn that the 
 gentleman wanted, we had the mortification ot finding 
 ourselves set down as a finished crank, Cor they 
 very promptly informed us that in her majesty's do- 
 minions they feed their horses on corn, (meaning oats) 
 our corn not growing in that country. We were afraid 
 to ask for any other American dishes, partaking of 
 what, was set to us and asking no questions. By the 
 way this is the wisest course to pursue when traveling, 
 but it is too often lost sight of to the great annoyance 
 of oneself and everybody around them, but alter all we 
 fare excellent in '' merrie old England." After dining, 
 most of the artisan class indulge in a little pleasure in 
 the shape of a pot or glass of beer, or more frequently 
 a tankard of " 'alf and 'alt," finishing with a pipe of 
 fine-cut tobacco, long clay japes, being furnished with 
 the beer. The same programme is often renewed after 
 the labors of the day are over, small apartments being 
 lilted up in the taverns where friends can meet and 
 spend a social hour over a glass of nappy ale and a 
 pipe. 
 
 One of the principal sights in Liverpool is its fine 
 docks, their great extent and fine masonry being un- 
 surpassed by any city in the world. There is not much 
 manufacturing business carried on here, but Birken- 
 head, her sister city just across the river, supplies any 
 deficiency in this regard, for this large city is a perfect 
 labyrinth of smoke stacks, furnaces, din and bustle. 
 And while this great panorama of mercantile industry 
 is before us, our thoughts turn towards our native laud 
 and the eve often gazes lovingly northward. 
 
 So on midsummer day, at 10 o'clock, a. in. we find 
 ourselves at Lime street station, on the London and 
 Northwestern Railway, grasping our friend by the hand 
 and bidding him good bye before stalling on the jour- 
 ney northward. Moving out of the depot we immedi- 
 ately enter quite a lengthy tunnel, passing through it 
 we are once more in the country. Here we begin to 
 notice the change of atmosphere and landscape so differ- 
 ent from our American scenery. There is a strange 
 subdued softness of feeling in the atmosphere that
 
 To Eiirope and Back. 19 
 
 seems odd to us. Although the day is fine and appar- 
 ently clear, yet we cannot rind the pure, bright, blue skies 
 of America. There is a sort of limpid haze nearly akin 
 to our Indian summer, and the scenery and in fact all 
 of the surroundings seem to be imbued with the same 
 softness. There is not such diversity of objects nor docs 
 the general landscape stand out so bold and prominent 
 as that, to he found in our western home. There is con- 
 siderable difference in the system of railroad accommo- 
 dations, the cars or carriages as they call them, being 
 much smaller than ours and divided into compart, 
 ments having an entrance to each on the side, and the 
 platform being on a level with the door, yon step right 
 in and take your seat. A compartment will hold 
 about eight persons. This system has its disadvanta- 
 ges and its good points also, but it altogether depends 
 on the company you come in contact with. If you 
 lumpen to meet with noisy or disagreeable traveling 
 companions then our American system is fifty per cent, 
 better; but if you have the good fortune to get into 
 pleasant society, say, for instance, where there are sev- 
 eral of the fair sex ; we always aimed for this if possi- 
 ble, and found it very pleasant and ninety-nine per 
 cent better tba our lumbering, big cars at home, for we 
 were not often troubled witli them smoking, and very 
 seldom disturbed by tne production of a whisky bottle. 
 No tickets are sold or checked on board but the collect- 
 ors are very expert at punching ihe tickets, the train 
 stopping at certain stations for that purpose. They are 
 very careful, always securing the door on the opppsite 
 side of the platform, so that passengers cannot get out 
 on the track. We are now moving along very rapidly. 
 Pass St. Helens, a beautiful suburban village, near this 
 are very extensive coal and lime works; passing many 
 neat way stations we soon reach Standish, a rather 
 quaint place- The surrounding country is very pretty 
 with fine, small farms and beautiful scenery. Onward 
 a few miles further ami we again notice that our train 
 is nearing another large city. We cross the river Rib- 
 ble and are at Preston, a large city of some two hun- 
 dred thousand inhabitants, evidently a very prosperous 
 place. Along the banks of the river for many miles 
 nothing is to be seen but elegance, taste and refinement, 
 beautiful villas, costly mansions and grounds most
 
 20 To Europe and Baife. 
 
 tastefully laid out on the gently undulating banks of 
 the stream. A most magnificent depot is in course of 
 construction here, which, when finished, will be one of 
 the finest railroad stations in the country. 
 
 Leaving Preston we puss through the most charming 
 of English scenery. We cannot begin to do it justice. 
 Rich fields of waving grain ripening for the harvest, the 
 soft, sweet fragrance of the new-mown hay, the hedge- 
 rows laden with the sweetness nf the hawthorn blos- 
 som, the dairies and buttercups raising their white and 
 yellows heads in bright profusion, scattered over the 
 green meadows and rich pasture fields; fine cattle laz- 
 ily cropping the luxuriant green herbage; artistically, 
 rounded clusters of trees dotted over the fields and past- 
 ures ; large tracts of turnips just appearing in the seed 
 of life; fields of potatoes in long, straight furrows, pre- 
 senting different shades of green according to variety; 
 and scattered thickly around were beautiful white cot- 
 tages and farm houses, neat villas with beautiful sur- 
 roundings, and old manor houses almost bidden from 
 view by sturdy oak trees that had withstood the storms 
 of many winters. Every few miles we are passing a 
 busy city or village Seranton, a neat place with beau- 
 ful surroundings ; Colgate, a neat, old place with line 
 pasture lands adjoining; East Haven on the coast, with 
 a line stretch of dazz ing white pebbly beach. Then 
 c >mes Cam tor th and we are in the vicinity of the celebra- 
 ted Westmoreland lakes. At Oxenhol me there are rail- 
 roads that will soon take you to lakes Windermere and 
 Derwentwater. Passing here the scenery becoon s very 
 rugged. At Tobay tho country is very sterile and hilly, 
 for we are among the Cumberland mountains Here 
 we notice the first sprig of heather at the sight of which 
 our heart hounded with delight. This is quite a sheep 
 farming country, for we notice many fleecy flocks graz- 
 ing on the slope of the rugged mountain side. At Clif- 
 ton we are still among the mountains, but the country 
 is not so unproductive as that we had been passing 
 through for the past eight or ten miles Several fine 
 farms are to he seen in some beautiful nooks of the 
 mountains. Here is a junction foi Appleby and the 
 east coast. A few miles further on is Peiiridi, quite a 
 large neal looking place, in the valley of Cumberland- 
 shire. You can take a short cut from here to Derwent-
 
 To Europe and Back. 21 
 
 water. At Carlisle we are nearing the Border and will 
 soon behold and set foot on our native land. Carlisle 
 is quite a large, fine city, clean and very neat in appear- 
 ance. Here the railroad company have an excellent 
 method of furnishing luncheon for passengers. It con- 
 sists of small baskets of provisions put up by the com- 
 pany, iheconteuts and price being noted on the cover; 
 a piece of chicken, cold meat, bread and butter, and a 
 few cakes. Of course there are different sizes and pri- 
 ces; one shilling, twenty five cents; one shilling and 
 sixpence, forty cents; these you take into the car with 
 you and partake of at your leisure Notices are posted 
 up in the cars : " Please leave the basket," hooks being 
 provided for that purpose. This is the best idea of 
 lunch we have ever seen, no hurry or bustle, no con- 
 ductor pulling the bell and warning passengers that 
 they might get left behind, thus frightening them out 
 of a good dinner. While enjoying this strangely got 
 up lunch, our train is fast approaching the famous and 
 historic Gretn.. Green. Very little is to be seen, only a 
 few scatte r ed houses, one with a low thatched roof is 
 said to be the identical building in which Rory Bain, 
 the blacksmith, made many a runaway couple happy, 
 by pronouncing them husband and wife. On passing 
 this place we could not help thinking of our matrimon- 
 ial friend, esquire Beasley, of Aberdeen, the Gretna 
 Green of America. Had our frien J captain T. been 
 with us at this point there is no telling what thoughts 
 might have come into his head, for to say the l-;ist, it 
 does make one feel ra her badly to pass and look upon 
 the very spot where so many have been united and 
 made happy, while we are left severely alone in 
 all the solitude and grandeur of single blessedness. 
 But in all seriousness this is a very fitting spot to secure 
 a companion, for it is one of the most solitary, woe-be- 
 gone, deserted looking spots we have ever seen. Iu^ 
 deed, we even hinted to some of our fair passengers 
 that it was rather lonesome, but an ominious shake of 
 the head convinced us that they were not altogether 
 ready to step out of the cars and interview the famous 
 smith, we had a good deal of merrimeut, however, over 
 Gretna Given and its associations. We understand that 
 there have been no weddings at this place for many 
 years, but many a merry bridal party has assembled
 
 22 To Europe and Back. 
 
 here at this quaint old house, ou the border between 
 England and Scotland, giving rise to many a legend 
 and romance. Leaving Gretna Green the scenery be- 
 comes decidedly Scottish, for we are now passing 
 through that part of the country whicli James Hogg, the 
 "Ettrick Shepherd," has so beautifully described in 
 his songs and poems, making us familiar with every 
 bit of scenery we are passing through. Q,uite a pastor- 
 ial spot is this among the Cheviot hills. Now our train 
 is uearing the country of Burns, for we are already in 
 sight of the winding Nith, while stretching away to the 
 left is Aunaudale. Our conductor calls out L icberbie, 
 and we will soon be in the valley of Ayr.
 
 LETTER NO, 5, 
 
 FROM CHEVOIT TO GRAMPIAN HILLS. 
 
 The country through which we are passing is full of 
 historical interest. Abbottsford, the home of Walter 
 Scott, is only a short distance to the right of us, with 
 its grand old trees, its beautiful parks and thickly 
 wooded landscape, while not a great distance from it is 
 K*«*Hifeoi , fch, the damp walls of the old castle entirely 
 covered with a species of ivy which bears the name of 
 IAnaria Cebo. Many parts of the ancient edifice are 
 crumbling to decay, the ruins everywhere hidden with 
 a covering of lichens, ferns, and many varieties of wild 
 sedum. Amid these scenes we can almost in imagina- 
 tion behold the form of the grand old man " Sir Walter" 
 dictating his "Old Mortality," or laughing heartily at 
 the antics and quaint humor with which he has im- 
 bued "dominie Sampson," his two favorite hounds 
 crouching at his side, often raising their heads in ex- 
 pectance of the caressing word which was sure to come 
 from their kind hearted master. But while we are 
 thinking of these historic associations, Abbotsford is left 
 in the distance. We pass Lochmaben and Beatiockon 
 our right, while on the left is the home of Burns. 
 
 The small farm of Mossgiel is in much the same con- 
 dition as it was in years gone by. After all it is iittle 
 wonder that the mind of the plain Scotch ploughman 
 should be imbued with these feelings and the mantle of 
 poetic inspiration thrown around him, living amidst 
 such sweet scenery in nature's simplest grandeur. The 
 rippling Ayr, its clear waters leaping aud sparkling as 
 it courses along past the castle of Montgomery, onward 
 through shady dells, among green fields where daises 
 bloom, and lofty trees its banks overhang, toward the 
 sea, where stands tbe bonnie town of Ayr. The Boon 
 is meandering in another direction, the fields along its 
 bonnie banks so fresh and fair, while way beyond a ris- 
 ing knoll the Lugar flows. Further on is the Alton,
 
 24 To Europe and Back. 
 
 (1 >wiug just ts gently as when the p>at sing so kindly, 
 murmuring sjft and sweetly, nature bushed , no dreams 
 disturbing. Old Alloway's haunted kirk is away in 
 the distance, but we can see the picture of Tarn. 
 O'Shanter most vividly in the surrounding landscape, 
 and as night falls we can behold a gooil representation 
 of the cottars S iturd \y night. We look in vain for Dr. 
 Hornbook; indeed we have serious apprehensions that he 
 has emigrated to America where there is a wider field 
 for his peculiar genius and more profit to be derived 
 from his artistic method of stopping the breath. Ah ! 
 here is '• Holy Willie," just the same as what he was 
 a century ago, his prayers just as long and equally as 
 fervent as ever We are of the opinion, though, that a 
 good many of his relatives have left the land of their 
 birth and gone west to grow up with the country, for we 
 have distinct recollections of meeting several of them in 
 America Thus every cosy nook we are passing is sus- 
 ceptible of being transformed into a poeticiji gem. 
 
 In leaving these sceues behind we can observe John 
 Anderson, " My Jo," waving us good-bye, his snow- 
 white locks fluttering in the breeze. The merry voices 
 of Rob and Alan, enjoying a drop of Will'.e's brewing, 
 reach us as a sort of parting gift, a long lingering look 
 and we leave the home of Burns behind and speed on 
 through a very pleasant country, though less historic, 
 and we are soon cheered by the guard or conductor call- 
 ing out Carstairs, change carriages for Edinburg. Tin- 
 name sounded very pleasant to us, but we (lid not 
 intend to visit the capital at this time butkept on north- 
 ward. Again the country becomes more sterile, being 
 quite a mineral district, tall chimneys, blazing furnaces, 
 smoke, din and bustle being the predominant features. 
 Iron ore is plentiful and m inufactured in large quanti- 
 ties, a r-ady m uket being found in the great^hip build- 
 ing yards on the Clyde, only a few miles distant. Coal 
 is also found, but not in quantity, for the beds are not 
 very extensive Passing through this busy mineral 
 mart for about twelve miles and we shut off steam at 
 Coat bridge. Here are to be seen the largest machine 
 and locomotive works in the country; indeed you can 
 scarcely discern the houses through the thick canopy 
 of smoke iianging over the place. The ring of the liam- 
 ner and anvil are about the only sounds beard, save the
 
 To Europe and Bock. 25 
 
 noise of the furnaces and escaping steam. Although 
 not very melodious, this is music however, that has a 
 good deal of influence in controlling the fortunes and 
 destinies of men and nations. Our next stopping 
 place is the great Green hi II Junction, where there iscon- 
 Biderable excitement, for here you change for the way 
 of Glasgow and the west coast. 
 
 Ail along the route we have heen paying considerable 
 attention to the traveling fiend that makes it his spec 
 ial business to be all buttoolate. The average late comer 
 is usually an elderly or middle aged individual, wearing 
 a silk hat that has seen a good deal of hard service, his 
 garments loose and badly fitted, his eoat a faded pea- 
 green, or shabby black color, his baggage generally con- 
 sisting of a large valise, two bundles care'ully wrapped 
 with twine, and an umbrella. Sometimes he has a lam- 
 die of rugs and two or three heavy walking canes in 
 addition to the above. He has very important Uisiness 
 with some person on the far end of the platform, and has 
 not the least idea where he is going until the signal for 
 starting. Then, of course, he makes for a, carriage near 
 the middle of tin- train, lugging his baggage along with 
 him, his umbrella horizontally under his arm, giving 
 those on the platform many a thrust as he hurries fran- 
 tic illy to secure a seat ; his hat, usually worn well back 
 on bis cranium, flies oft a I together, the long coat tails are 
 caught in the breeze, and the loose, ill-fitting garment 
 comes pretty near being turned wrong sideout, Ins wide, 
 curious shaped trousers are flapping about his limbs, his 
 cheeks are putfed out with the extraordinary exertion, 
 and he often turns red in the face, awaking serious ap- 
 prehensions of apoplexy. Finally as the wheels are he- 
 ginning to turn.he is pushed into a com part men t, bundles 
 and all Some kind-hearted person has picked up his 
 hat and handed it to him while he is getting seated, but 
 instead of being grateful he is very cross and abusive, and 
 at the next station, alter dragging his baggage across 
 the bridge to another platform, finds that be has been 
 carried a considerable distance out of his intended route, 
 and then as a matter of course he never blames himself 
 but heaps abuse upon the railroad officials, who are en- 
 tirely innocent in the matter We metu very fine spec 
 inieti of this homo genus at Greeuhill.
 
 26 V\i Europe and Back 
 
 Still laughing at the amusement afforded we are pass- 
 ing Uampsie, and can distinguish in the distance the 
 mist covered summit of lofty Ben Lomond. The coun- 
 try is becomiug more open and less thickly wooded; 
 cross a small stream called the Bannock, and we are 
 on the historic field of'Banuockhum, the Wallace mon- 
 ument, with a colossal statute of the great Scottish hero, 
 towering on the beightsa little to the northwest, assum- 
 ing an attitude as if .-canning the battle-field; cross 
 the river Forth, and the ancient city of Stirling is on our 
 left with the grand old castle on the bluff eminence on 
 
 the south bank of the river. We look ii| the place 
 
 with a feeling of awe, knowing how much human 
 blood had been shed, and the sanguinary and deter- 
 mined test of arms displayed by those warrior heroes 
 who now .sleep within its walled enclosures. This city 
 of Stirling has grown a good deal during the past ten 
 years, it now being a rather important railroad center 
 and considerable commercial interests. Leaving this 
 we are hurled through a very pretty section of the 
 country, Bridge ol Alan, a beautiful watering place 
 on the banks of the Earn, with the charmingly wooded 
 hills of Kinross and Fife in the northern back-ground. 
 A few mi es up the same stream is Dunblane, also a 
 favorite summer resort and one of the prettiest places 
 we have yet seen. The scenery and water is all that 
 could he desired, hut though \wy pleasant to live hen-, 
 it is ratln-r costly, the fire tor the summer months be- 
 ing about SMI or $12 per week, not including attendants 
 fees. The Earn affords find trout fishing. A little be- 
 yond this is -the junction fop Calauder and the famous 
 Trosachs, the celebrated tourists' route. After this 
 comes Crief, situated in a beautifully wooded valley 
 with the Earn softly meandering through it. The 
 town is some distance to the west of us, a rather rural 
 place. We are now within sight of the chain of Ochil 
 mountains stretching from this point almost to the 
 west coast. In a si o t time we are at the fair city of 
 Perth, quite a large growing place with glimpses of 
 beautiful scenery in the neighborhood; hence the name 
 Fair City. Our train came to a halt some distance from 
 the town. Inquiring the cause the guard promptly in- 
 formed us that we were waiting so as to ailow the 
 Queen to pass. This was something novel, so we asked
 
 To Europe and Back. 27 
 
 him if he had any objections to our leaving the oars and 
 walking to the platform tosee her. "Certainly," he re- 
 plied, " get out by al means and have a look at her." 
 Of course we availed ourself of the opportunity. There 
 was quite a crowd gathered near the refreshment rooms. 
 Her majesty had stopped to luncheon on her way south- 
 ward from her Scotch home, Balmoral. The stalwart 
 form of John Brown Was guarding the entrance. We 
 soon had the satisfaction of seeing her as she walked 
 from the restaurant to a carriage. A bright young 
 lassie presented her with a handsome bouquet of flow- 
 ers The 1 rusty Highlander took the proffered offering 
 and handed it" to her majesty, who acknowledged her 
 thanks and kindly shook the hand of the youthful donor. 
 Her majesty in appearance is one of those thoughtful, 
 kind hearted ladies' that the eye and mind love to rest 
 upon, a countenance beaming with charity and benev- 
 olence. We were not slow to uncover our head in her 
 presence, not because we were beholding the queen of 
 Great Britain ; uot because we were in the presence of 
 the empress of India, but because we beheld in her the 
 woman whom people of all nations love and revere; 
 because, true to her womanly nature, she laid aside her 
 royal garments and dignity of state and received with 
 open arms the daughter of our president ; because she 
 shed tears of sympathy with us in our great national 
 affliction of July a year ago, and because she was the 
 woman that sent flashing across the Atlantic kind and 
 affectionate words of condolence to the bereaved family 
 ot our lamented Garfield. In a word her appearance 
 embodies all that is noble and go< d. 
 
 Leaving Perth we cross the Tay and arrive at Stan- 
 ley, the junction of the Highland railway. On the 
 right and' some distance southward is Scone, where the 
 kings of Scotland were crowned, while stretching away 
 further south is the famous "Carse o' Gowrie," along 
 the valley of the Tay towards Dundee. Here a fine, in 
 fact the finest farming country in the kingdom, opens 
 before us, for we now are in the valley of Strathmore. 
 Agriculture receives much more attention here than in 
 any other part of Scotland. The farm buildings are very 
 fine, and every inch of ground under cultivation ex- 
 cepting that in use for keeping up tbe supply of timber, 
 ami that is something they are very careful to do, al-
 
 28 To Europe and Back. 
 
 ways planting a tree to take the place of the one cut 
 down. A very fine breed of cattle is seen here, being 
 almost indigenious to this section. The famed Grampian 
 hills are now plainly visible in the distance, the long 
 chain reaching from the Ochils in Perth to the coast 
 of Aberdeen. We are now nearing the place of our 
 birth, and, consequently, everything is becoming more 
 and more familiar, and if we are writing this in lan- 
 guage that is very simple, not having polish or elegance 
 of style, we hope there may be pardon in store for us in 
 the near future, for we are almost among the scenes of 
 our boyhood. The conductor calls out, "Dun Junction, 
 change carriages for Brechin." Tins is our native city 
 and only four miles distance. Finally we arrive at 
 Bivchin and have the pleasure of meeting many old 
 friends and relatives, also have the sad duty oflooking on 
 the quiet spot in the old church-yard, where loved ones 
 are sleeping. But we draw a veil over the scene and rest 
 for awhile, after which we may see a little of Scottish 
 life and character.
 
 LETTER NO, 6, 
 
 NATIVE SCENES AND SKETCHES. 
 
 On the morning of June 30th we are early astir, hav- 
 ing rested a few days at the old homestead, and are, 
 therefore, in just the proper frame of mind to celebrate 
 this memorable day in a becoming manner, for we 
 had not forgotten that it was the time appointed for the 
 miserable, whining scoundrel, Guiteau, to expiate his 
 fearful crime on the scaffold. Of course we make al- 
 lowance for the difference of time and patiently watch 
 the hands of the clock until they are pointing to 6 p. 
 in., when we knew then that it was all over with the 
 cowardly wretch. Indeed, it was impossible to restrain 
 our feelings any longer; oft went our good, new hat, 
 then a hearty, ringing cheer, "Hip, hip, hurrah, well 
 done !" much to the astonishment of those around us, but 
 after ascertaining the cause they joined us most heart- 
 ily in repeating it : "Served the sneaking villain right." 
 " Long may the stars and stripes wave over our lovely 
 sister country " You may rest assured that we gave a 
 heartfelt amen to this genuine outburst of feeling 
 on the part of strangers. Had we been possessed of vo- 
 cal powers the "Star Spangled Banner" would have been 
 done up in good style, but 'unfortunately this was out of 
 the question, for there were many people and vehicles 
 on the streets and we might have been liable to get into 
 trouble from frightening the horses and perhaps alarm- 
 ing the quiet citizens by an exhibition of our musical 
 talent. Next morning we had the pleasure and satisfact- 
 ion of reading the dispatches in the morning papeis an- 
 nouncing that the job was neatly done and the unfor- 
 tunate creature gone to meet a just reward. As " Holy 
 Willie " would say, perhaps he has taken the left hand 
 road. 
 
 Being in such a happy mood after perusing these dis- 
 patches, two lady friends had the audacity to take ad- 
 vantage of this overflow of spirits by suggesting that we
 
 30 To Europe and Back 
 
 ought to see the Highland games, then in progress in 
 the city park, only a short distance out of town. Of 
 course, under the circumstances we could not reasona- 
 bly decline, the price of admission to the grounds in- 
 chiding a good seat was very reasonable, only a six- 
 pence, (twelve-and-a half cents.) Here is a good op- 
 portunity for getting a glimpse of Scottish manners and 
 customs; about a dozen pipers are already in the ring 
 dressed in full Highland costume, proudly marching to 
 the music of the pibrocbsthey were discoursing. Many 
 of them had numerous medals on their breasts, trophies 
 of past victories in the piping art, truly fine-looking 
 men and beautifully dressed, having neat hose and sil- 
 ver buckle shoes, with the historic tartan plaid hung 
 gracefully over the shoulder, while a neat Glengarry 
 bonnet made a very appropriate head wear. But the 
 music, oh ! horror of horrors, such screeching and blow- 
 ing, most shrill and piercing; indeed, we wished them 
 at least a mile distant, the noise would have been more 
 soft and subdued and more near bearab e. However, it 
 proved not to be so bad after all, for by and by the ear 
 becomes used to the harsh melody, and by the time the 
 prize competition is over the sound has become rather 
 pleasant than otherwise Then comes the dancing tour- 
 nament, which was good and very enjoyable, but to 
 American eyes would have appeared very funny. There 
 is quite a variety of dances, comprising reels, Highland 
 fling, kilie kalum, hornpipes, jigs and strathspeys. 
 Each competitor appearing singly on the platform, gave 
 us an excellent opportunity of observing their agility. 
 The athletic sports were very interesting, showing to 
 fine advantage the splendid physical development of 
 theScotch bigblander; the leaping and running matches 
 were well contested and created not a little amusement. 
 The last but not the least is an exhibition of genuine 
 Scotch wrestling, which w-S rather novel and very ex- 
 citing. 
 
 As the sports draw to a close we can notice the same 
 old manners and customs that existed many years ago, 
 and begin to realize that we are in a country and among 
 a people that change but very little in a decade, so un- 
 like our American changeable and progressive style. 
 Each country gallant selects his lassie and homeward 
 together take their way on foot, often walking a dis-
 
 To Europe and Back, 3 1 
 
 tance of many miles. But this is not such an un- 
 pleasant business after all, for the summer evening is 
 soft and beautiful, the sun yet high in the heavens al- 
 though it is nigh 8 p. in. Here we might say that there 
 is considerable difference in the length of daylight here 
 compared with that of Kentucky, the twilight not 
 deepening into darkness until nearly 11, and by 1 a. m. 
 day is breaking in the eastern horizon during the sum- 
 mer mouths, while the day is correspondingly short in 
 the winter. Thus the many couples wending their way 
 homeward can either take it leisurely or at a brisk pace, 
 for the evening is just pleasantly warm for either, but, 
 of course, we suppose much depends upon the import- 
 ance of the conversation. Like others, we walked some 
 distance in the country, and the journey was so pleas- 
 ant that it seemed almost incredible when our compan- 
 ions informed us that we had traveled several miles; 
 whether it was the familiar windings and turnings of 
 the road, or the circling by paths in which we had so 
 often wandered in our boyhood that beguiled us, or the 
 animated conversation and pleasant company that made 
 the way seem so short, has never been settled in our 
 mind. We are in the country districts now, however, 
 and propose to do just what the people around us are 
 doing, sharing the same fare and adopting their mode 
 of living. True, v»e may lack many of the luxuries of 
 a Kentucky home, still there is no danger of starving, 
 as some tourists have the foolishness to assert. Good 
 substantial food is plentiful, though not in great variety; 
 the people are strong, healthy and robust on the homely 
 fare on which they live, so we at once conclude to par- 
 take of the national fare fully assured that it would not 
 kill us outright, and if it did lay us up for a a time tbere 
 would be but little harm, seeing that we were provided 
 with one of 'squire Marsh's accident policy tickets. 
 Provisions on the whole are rather high. Good beef 
 will cost twenty five cents per pound, butter, thirty-five 
 cents, eggs, thirty cents, ham and bacon, twenty-five 
 cents; bread stuffs are cheaper, four pound loaf, twelve 
 ceuts; teas and sugars are very cheap, sixty and seven 
 cents per peuud. Very little meats are used in the 
 country districts, but the people are happy and con- 
 tented. The average wages of workingmen are about 
 $5 per week, while mechanics realize $8; on the whole
 
 32 To Europe and Back. 
 
 an industrious person could save ns much on these fig- 
 ures as could be done in America at our regular rate of 
 wages. The time for working is well regulated; for all 
 classes of manual labor ten hours per day is all thai is 
 required, farm servants being included in this. 
 
 We are now starting for the east coast. Aberdeen at 
 the mouth of the river Dee, is the principal city in the 
 northeast of Scotland, and really a fine city, built en- 
 tirely of brown granite On Union street, the principal 
 business place, the front part of the buildings are so 
 highly polished, that the long straight block is glisten- 
 ing in the sunlight like burnished silver. This js the 
 third seat of learning in the country, Marechal and 
 King's College being the most conspicuous institutions. 
 Here Lord Byron received his education; tins is also 
 quite a military station, with line barracks; we notice 
 very fine market buildings; there are two or three daily 
 papers published, and a population of nearly one hun- 
 dred thousand. The country westward is certainly 
 very pretty; there is a good railroad in this direction as 
 far ns Ballater; the scenery up the valley of the Dee is 
 perfectly charming, and it is little wonder that Queen 
 Victoria loves to spend her summers there, everything 
 so beautiful, soft and tranquil. From Ballater you take 
 the stage coach to Balmoral, her majesty's summer res- 
 idence, beautifully situated a little distance from the 
 river near the village of ('ratine. We cannot begin to 
 give a minute description of the palace and its sur- 
 roundings, but will only say that everything connected 
 with the place is in exquisite taste ; beautified with all 
 the polish and refinement of art, but still retaining that 
 softness ami sweet touches so true to nature. Some 
 distance southward is the great deer forest of the Aber- 
 geldie belonging to the Prince of Wales, while away be 
 
 yond this we behold the wild, frowning glories of " bark 
 Lochnagar," so grandly described by the poet Byron. 
 Proceeding still further westward by stage you soon 
 touch at Braemar, very mountainous country, thence 
 on to Kingussie, where you make connections with the 
 Highland railway, then you can go south by the way 
 of Blair Athole and through the "Dirks of Aberfeldy," 
 until you join the Caledonian railway at Stanley. The 
 scenery on this route is very pretty; indeed in many 
 places it is really sublime and picturesque. You can
 
 To Europe and Back. 33 
 
 also go northward from Kingussie towards Inverness, 
 the principal city in the highlands; from thence you 
 can proceed towards the southwest coast hy the way of 
 the Caledonia canal. Railroad traveling is not very ex- 
 pensive here, so we can afford to take a good many 
 different routes. The regular Jare is two cents per mile, 
 return for a fare-and-a half, three cents, and if you pur- 
 chase one of Cook's tourist's tickets you can travel still 
 cheaper. These can he obtained at nearly every rail- 
 road station in the country. A short distance north 
 from Inverness and you can cross the Moray Frith to the 
 Orkney and Shetland islands; skirting the coast in a 
 south-easterly direction through a very rugged country, 
 you find yourself at Peterhead, celebrated for its granite 
 quarries. Twenty miles further on and we are again at 
 Aberdeen, and it you want to go to London by water 
 there are fine steamers leaving twice a week, distance 
 four hundred and fifty miles, fare $7, time forty-eight 
 hours. The passage in the North Sea is often very 
 rough and hazardous. 
 
 Still hugging the coast we soon reach a quaint old 
 town called Stonehaven, properly speaking only a fish- 
 ing village. We stop for several days here and explore 
 the country a little and have some very pleasant ram- 
 bles among the beautiful trees and parks that surround 
 the castle of Uric We visit the old family vault where 
 the remains of captain Barclay, of pedestrian fame, lie 
 mouldering into dust ; this was the first man we believe 
 that accomplished the great feat of walking a thousand 
 miles in as many hours. Leaving this the country is 
 very hilly, for we are at the eastern extremity of the 
 Grampian range; the heather is not blooming yet, so 
 we conclude to visit ihem later, and in the meantime 
 pass towards Montrose, a very neat, clean city of some 
 twelve thousand inhabitants. The scenes here are very 
 familiar to us, for we have often leaped among the rocks 
 in days gone by and gathered dulse and shell fish when 
 the tide receded. The scenery landward is soft and 
 sweet. The North British Railroad Company has just 
 completed a very substantial bridge over the Esk, thus 
 giving a near route to Arbroath, a small town about ten 
 miles distant. Here we notice very extensive tanner- 
 ies, also large preserve works. Still rounding the coast 
 a few miles and we come to Boughtferry and Dundee
 
 34 To Europe and Back 
 
 on the Frith of Tay, the seeue of the great railroad 
 bridge disaster. The structure is still standing in much 
 tbe same condition as it was the day after the accident 
 occurred, although they pretend to be working on it. 
 It is really a wonderful structure, with the two end 
 sections towering above the angry waters, and the fear- 
 ful gap in tbe center nearly a mile long, where the ill- 
 fated train fell. People say that the wind was blowing 
 a complete hurricane from the southwest at the time, 
 and they fully believe that it was the violence of the 
 storm and not the train that destroyed the structure. 
 This is quite a large place with a population of two 
 hundred and ft ty thousand, tbe second commercial city 
 in .Scotland, with a regular line of steamers crossing the 
 Atlantic to New York. But we must hurry for we 
 want to get to Eliuburg, cross over the ferry, through 
 Fife, pass St. Andrews, a fine old place, with its grand 
 educational institutions, being tbe second in the country 
 in this regard, touch at Burntisland, cross the Frith of 
 Forth and we are within a mile of Edinboro, town.
 
 LETTER NO, 7, 
 
 IN EDINBURG. 
 
 What a chaos of grand associations are crowding on 
 our mind as we approach this wonderful, classic old 
 city of Edinburg. the modern Athens of the world. It 
 is situated on a beautiful rising ground in full view of 
 the Frith of the Forth. Being some distance from the 
 coast, Leith forms its seaport, and opens the way com- 
 mercially by water. Granton, New Haven and Grange- 
 mouth, are'but a continuation of Leith, stretching away 
 further up the estuary. Tram cars and omnibus lines 
 are plentiful from these points; also the North British 
 railway, which lands you at the great Waverly Station, 
 located in a lovely valley which separates the old town 
 from the new. We had been looking forward with 
 bright expectance to the sights and memories connected 
 wiili this grand, historic capital, but as the glories of 
 Princesses street and the exquisite beauty of the sur- 
 rounding gardens open before us, our loltiest anticipa- 
 tions were fully realized. 
 
 Emerging from a abort tunnel after leaving the Hay- 
 market Station, the grand old castle is looming up 
 many feet above us on a perpendicular foundation of 
 solid rock, with the ancient edifice beetling over its 
 base as if it might at any moment be hurled into the 
 valley below. But this is only a delusion, for there it 
 has rested securely for centuries and withstood the 
 storms of many winters, and weathered the violence of 
 many fierce military engagements, and there is but 
 little doubt that the grand old structure will remain 
 there for many centuries to come. On the left the eye 
 rests upon a scene of unsurpassed beauty, the tine gar- 
 dens most tastefully laid out, presenting a very pleasing 
 diversity of flowers and foliage. Among the plants and 
 shrubbery we notice many kinds that would very soon 
 succumb to the scorching rays of a Kentucky sun. 
 Dwarf lobelias of the deepest blue, in ribbon lines miles
 
 36 To Enropt and Back 
 
 in length; dwarf calceolarias In bright yellow colors 
 form the next row, then the caller growing argeratums 
 or a line of beautiful blue pansies, and so on until the 
 eye becomes perfectly charmed with the finely con- 
 trasted grouping and sweet blending of colors; indeed 
 we loved to linger there, for such a lovely spot and 
 charmingly animated surroundings are not to be found 
 every day, for while everything is soft and pleasing in 
 the gardens, the atmosphere is ladened witli a soft, 
 mellow fragrance, emanating from the extensive buds 
 of mignonette dotted over the grounds in profusion; 
 tlieu up several long flights of stone steps and we are ou 
 Princesses street, where all is commotion and hurry. 
 This is by far the finest street in the city, and all is 
 bustle and activity. Cabs, hansoms, omnibuses, tram 
 cars and private conveyances are moving promiscously 
 in every direction. There is considerable difference be- 
 tween those tram cars and our street cars at home. 
 Here they are two-story affairs, having a winding stair- 
 way in the rear by which you can make your way to a 
 seat on the top. This seemed very funny, and, in fact, 
 we had almost made up our mind in advance to dislike 
 the whole system, but after having two or three drives 
 on top our rashly formed opinions underwent consider- 
 able change, for we obtained a magnificent view of the lo- 
 cality in which we were traveling. The fare for the full 
 length of the route is only four cents, so we can afford 
 to look on the streets and buildings from an elevated 
 platform. The buildings on this beautiful ami busy 
 thoroughfare are principally business houses and nu- 
 merous very fine hotels, grand in elegance and beauty, 
 just in keeping with the tasteful gardens on the other 
 side. 
 
 Right here is something that attracts our attention. 
 This is a beautiful monument erected to the great Scotch 
 novelist, Sir Walter Scott, situated in the garden front- 
 ing on the street. It was not because of its large pro- 
 portions and extraordinary elevation, but the quaint, 
 original style of architecture takes our fancy. Tins im- 
 posing structure is of the Gothic order, with numerous 
 little towers, turrets and spires tapering towards the 
 top. Within the d ima on a low pedestal is a finely 
 chiseled statue of the sage of Abbottsford. The figure 
 is iu a sittiug position, assuming a very studious attitude
 
 To Ettrofe ar.d Back, 37 
 
 with a largo roll of manuscript in his closed hand, no 
 doubt a copy of his " Heart ol Midlothian." Not know- 
 ing much about Sir Walter, one might pass giving the 
 fine mouun.eut only a cursory look, but to those who 
 have become acquainted with him through his wonder- 
 ful literary productions, this piece of statuary posessess 
 an abs-orbing interest, for on each little turret we find 
 fac similes of many of his favorite characters. Front- 
 ing on Princesses "street, standing out in bold relief, is 
 the well known form of baillie Nicol Jurvie, assuming a 
 very comical attitude of astonishment, he is doubtless 
 listening to the burning language of the highland out- 
 law, Rob Roy, who is looking down upon him from the 
 next little tower. On the left of the Glasgow deacon 
 we notice the portly form of Direk Hatterick, beside 
 him is the shrewd, cunning eyed " Meg Merrilles," 
 while further round and higher up is Dominie Samson, 
 swinging his arms about him like a wind mill. Near 
 him Is a line representation of Jonathan Oldbuek, the 
 antiquary : still higher up we notice the Dugal Creature; 
 not far from him is Helen McGregor; a little farther 
 round on the garden side and we observe the well 
 known features of Guy Manneriug; beside him is Dan- 
 die Dinmout; away up and in a little niche, looking 
 over the vu ley of flowers we notice the lovely form and 
 sweet features of the gentle "Di Vernon," while not 
 far from her, looking frowningly, is the villainous 
 countenance of Rashleigh Osbaldistone, and so we 
 might go on and find familiar faces until we reach the 
 top of the monument, but time passes, so we have to 
 .'cave Sir Walter and his wonderfully created compan- 
 ions with a great deal of reluctance and pass along the 
 busy thoroughfare towards the west end. Looking east- 
 ward on Princesses street, from the Caledonian rail- 
 way station the view is very fine, for you behold the 
 crowded street, the fine gardens, the Waverly market 
 buildings, also the great depot with the grim old castle 
 standing guard over it. 
 
 A short distance southward and we cross the mead- 
 ows, beautiful grass plats, for the most part public 
 grounds and very neatly kept. Then we are at War 
 render Park, where large agricultural exhibitiousare 
 held. The buildings here are" very pretty and many of 
 them appear to have been built but recently and in a 
 
 461471
 
 38 To Europe and Back 
 
 modern style of architecture. Wespent some time very 
 pleasantly in this portion of the city. Further south in 
 the suburbs is the great Moruingside Asylum for the in- 
 sane. Crossing the meadows in a northeasterly direct- 
 ion, we pass the hospital, which occupies an entire 
 square and is one of the largest institutions in the coun- 
 try. In this direction »"e soon reach the grass market, 
 a very old place. From here we get an excellent view 
 of the castle from the other side. A long flight of steps 
 leads from here to the promenade, where we obtain a 
 birds-eye view of the city. Here is the entrance to the 
 wonderful old castle, and the admission price is twenty- 
 five cents. The internal arrangement is much the same 
 as several otuer ancient places we had visited, contain- 
 ing dungeons dark and strong. One large room con- 
 tains many curiosities, the sword of Sir William Wal- 
 lace, the crown jewels of Scotland, the helmet of King 
 Robert Bruce, and the celebrated cannon, " Mons 
 Meg," is out on the ramparts. There are also many 
 other relics and pictures of .Scotch royalty, but we can- 
 not begin to enumerate them in this brief sketch, for 
 this would almost fill a volume of itself. Outside on 
 the north of the promenade we notice many neat 
 memorial tablets erected to the memory < f deceased oil" 
 icers; but the clock on the great St. Giles Cathedral, is 
 pealing forth in deep sonorous tones, warning us that 
 time is passing, so we leave our elevated position and 
 again mingle with the passing throng in the busy streets 
 below. A number of people are gathered around a 
 couple of strolling musicians, who were discoursing mu- 
 sic. We thought that the music was a little harsh and 
 discordant, so gave them a few coppers and suggested 
 that theygiveus" Yankee Doodle" and "Dixie." The au- 
 dience uiil not seem to he very much enthused at bearing 
 those sweet soul-stirring airs, but to us the music 
 sounded very pleasant ami our heart gave a start of joy, 
 for the melody of Dixie carried ns to where the sun 
 shines bright in the "old Kentucky home." Well, if 
 if we did wipe a little moisture from our face, please do 
 not think too hard of us, for you may also chance to be 
 a longdistance from home some day and will then bet- 
 ter understand those feelings. 
 
 fiie best view of the city and surrounding country is 
 obtained from the summit of Aithur'sSeat, a very high
 
 To Europe and Back. 39 
 
 rocky point nearly three miles eastward. The ascent is 
 very laborious, but the sights well repay one for any ex- 
 tra* trouble. Surmounting this elevation are several 
 huge masses of blackish looking rock of hard material, 
 for we had considerable difficulty in breaking a piece 
 from the loftiest point to put in our pocket as a me- 
 mento. Although calm and pleasant in the city, when 
 we get up here it is blowing almost a hurricane, for it 
 was with the greatest difficulty that we retained our bal- 
 ance. A short distance eastward is the German ocean, 
 presenting a" fine stretch of coast from Berwick round 
 the shores of Fife as far as the Frith of Tay. Many dan- 
 cing prows are seen tossing on its turbulent waters. In 
 tbe distance southward we can distinguish the famous 
 Bass rock off the coast of Berwick. On the point is 
 Dunbar, while nearer in a small inlet, with a tiny cloud 
 of smoke hanging over it, is tbe fishing town of Mussel- 
 burgh, and a short distance below us is Portobello. Prop- 
 erly speaking this is but a tributary of Edinburgh. 
 Here is a fine pier and elevated promenade, many peo- 
 ple gathering here during the summer months to iu- 
 haltTthe delightful sea breeze*. To the south landward 
 the scenery is grand, fine rich farms and numerous old 
 castles almost hidden among the forest verdure, while 
 tbe beautiful green Peutland hills make a very beauti- 
 ful background. Away northward is the small island 
 of Inch Keith. Like a mere speck in the distance, 
 twelve miles off the Arbroath coast, is the Inch Cape or 
 Bell Rock Lighthouse. Turning our eyes westward and 
 we are looking down upon the city. There is no haze 
 or covering of smoke to destroy the view. We can only 
 gaze and exclaim " how beautiful." What a labyriuth 
 of spires, towers and minarets in every shape and style 
 imaginable, each marking some educational institution, 
 or some sacred or religious edifice. We cannot help 
 feeling what a grand place our eyes are now resting 
 upon. 
 
 What a long catalogue of names comes looming be- 
 fore our mind. Here Chalmers gave his grand volumes 
 of information to the people; here the great divine, Dr. 
 Guthrie wandered the streets and gathered the ragged 
 waifs into the Sunday school; here Norman McLeod 
 fabored for the spiritual welfare of the people and pub- 
 lished his good words; in this place John Knox thun-
 
 40 To Eurcpt mid Back 
 
 dered forth burning truths during the reformation, and 
 
 la-re also professor Blackie still lives and instructs the 
 people in the mysteries of the Celtic language. But we 
 nui>t pause and hold our breath, for right below us is 
 the grand old palace of Holy rood. What wonderful vis- 
 ions the sight of it awakens in our mind ; what myster- 
 ious scenes and terrible tragi dies have been enacted in 
 the old castle during the reign of the unfortunate Mary, 
 and all through the long line of Scottish kings. Large 
 potraitsof Riz/.io, 1) irnley and Queen Mary are very cou- 
 spicious objects. Queen Victoria stays in this palace 
 when she visits the Capital. Near this is a neat monu- 
 ment to the poet Burns. Over on the rising ground is 
 the Calton bill, with the jail buildings and a line obser- 
 vatory, a gun being discharged every day, denoting 
 Greenwich time, at one p. m. Westward from here and 
 we soon enter the O-tnuongate, the principal street 
 in the old town. It is very narrow with high buildings 
 on either side. A century ago this was the main 
 thoroughfare in the city and considered a grand place, 
 but it is now mostly tenanted by the lower classes. 
 
 About the middle of the long, winding, narrow street 
 we observe the house in which the great reformer, John 
 Knox, lived. The steps leading to it they say are in 
 much the same condition as they were in those trouble- 
 some times when he held meetings there; indeed, 
 there is so much of interest to be seen here that we al- 
 most grow bewildered, for every place we are pissing 
 has a history, but we have not time to review each as we 
 pass. Another very potent reason is that we are far 
 from being capable of turning historian, so with uncov- 
 ered heads we take a long look eastward from the Cale- 
 donian statiou, and in the meantime bill adieu to the fa- 
 mous city of Ediuboro, thence on to Glasgow and the 
 busier scenes on ihe Clyde.
 
 LETTER NO, 8, 
 
 GLASGOW AND THE CLYDE. 
 
 The aspect of the country from Edinburg to the 
 great western metropolis, Glasgow, is not very inviting, 
 and a few places of interest to be seen and very little 
 diversity of scenery, minerals of various kinds being the 
 only productions of this low, sterile district, but though 
 bleak and the soil almost worthless for agricultural pur- 
 poses, still there are many neat places to be seen cosily 
 situated among the patches ot green woodland. The 
 deep, winding Carron is about the only river between 
 the two great cities, coursing along through a precipi- 
 tous rocky valley. Coal, iron and lime are to be found 
 here in abundance. The ore is of very superior quality, 
 but the coal and lime are of a very inferior grade. The 
 approaches to Glasgow from the east are quite the re- 
 verse of pretty. The distance between these two prin- 
 cipal cities is about fifty milts, and a long distance be- 
 fore the Clyde is reached we aie passing through 
 among the busy scenes of smoke-begrimed labor, so that 
 by the time we reach the city proper we are pretty well 
 initiated into the appearance of this industrious hive of 
 mercantile and commercial pursuits. 
 
 Looking from the bridge southward and the glories 
 of the river Clyde are spread out before us. It cannot 
 be called pretty in a scenic sense, but the humble, hard- 
 working artisan can no doubt perceive the perfection of 
 beauty under this thick covering of smoke and tumul- 
 tuous noise, for it affords him the means of living and 
 furnishes food and raiment for his wife and dearly loved 
 little ones. The merchant and the manufacturer can 
 also detect the loftiest type of beauty in the cloud that 
 hangs over the city and river, while to the ship owner 
 and those whose interests are connected with com- 
 mercial pursuits on the mighty deep, they have doubt- 
 less more beauty and attractions than in the love-
 
 42 To Europt and Back 
 
 licst scenery on earth. Although there is really 
 nothing of an aesthetic; nature to be seen, or that 
 would be agreeable to the refined taste of an Oscar Wilde, 
 still, it must be admitted thai the picture is a great and 
 a magnificent one. Unlike Liverpool there are no va- 
 riety of line docks; but the Broomielaw, fronting on 
 great Clyde street, gives ample pier room, Tins is per- 
 haps the -most charmingly animated place in the city ; 
 indeed, there is hut little of veal interest to be seen in 
 the busintss portion of the town. The streets and build- 
 ings are so much akin to some of our large American 
 cities, that we feel almost at home. Buchanan street 
 is the main thoroughfare. Trongate church is an impos- 
 ing edifice. G'asgow Green and the famous Tolbooth 
 are rather historic places. The town is well supplied 
 with the very best of water conveyed in pipes nearly 
 fifty miles from :i beautiful small lake called Loch Ka- 
 trine. The fall is sufficient to give great power in case 
 of u fire. Of course we very naturally inquired of the 
 people which are the most, important and desirable 
 places for a stranger to see. With great unanimity they 
 informed us that the Broomielaw, the river and the ex- 
 tensive ship-building- yards were 1 the first sights we 
 ought to see. After feasting our eyes for a time on the 
 splendidly animated picture, we fully agreed with them 
 that this is about the only place in this large city of 
 nearly half a million inhabitants that would be likely 
 to take our fancy. 
 
 This is the third city in the united kingdom as to 
 population, and as a manufacturing center ranks about 
 the same; but in the industry of iron ship building it 
 is away far ahead of any other port in the British do- 
 minions and perhaps in the world. Nearly all of the 
 great Atlantic steamships are built and fitted up for 
 sea at this place. The Anchor, Alan, State and Orien- 
 tal fleet of steamers are all built here. The Inman, 
 Guion, White Star and the magnificent Cunard lines 
 have been constructed within sight of this busy Scotch 
 town. Steamers for pleasure sailing are plentiful, and 
 we can spend a day very pleasantly and profitably at 
 very little exDense. You can take a trip down the 
 river a distance of sixty miles and return tor two shill- 
 ings— fifty cents. Good meals are furnished on hoard 
 for forty cents, but you can take your lunch basket along,
 
 To Europe and Back. 43 
 
 which will prove very convenient. The scene on the 
 river was so inviting that we really could not resist the 
 temptation of makinga trip southwestward towards the 
 coast; so in company of two dear friends take passage 
 on the fine pleasure steamer, Edinburg Castle, a very 
 swift running craft, after getting away from among the 
 density of vessels, making twenty miles an hour. On 
 leaving the pier further progress seemed to he com- 
 pletely barred, so many crafts of divers description, 
 sloops, schooners, barques, brigs and full rigged ships, 
 but by far the largest proportion are steam vessels. 
 On either side of the river the latter are lying two deep. 
 The Broomielaw extends along the west hank of the 
 river for nearly two miles. At the termination is Stob- 
 croos quay, the pier of the Anchor line of Atlantic mail 
 steamships. Their line steamer, Bolivia, is in port pre- 
 senting a tine appearance from the river, her magnifi- 
 cent hull towering many feet above the water Directly 
 opposite on the other side of the stream is Mavis Bank 
 Key, where lies the line steamships of the State line. 
 The State of Nevada has just arrived from New York 
 and appears to he well down in the water. A little 
 above this is the pier of the Alan line. The Nova 
 Scotia has lately reached this port from Boston and 
 Halifax. The river is about three- fourths of a mile in 
 width, Imt the tide standing up beyond this gives a fine 
 depth of water, for large vessels can pass up and down, 
 drawing twenty-five feet of water. 
 
 AVe now reach ihe extensive iron ship building yards. 
 The sight is indeed grand and very interesting, but the 
 noise is almost unbearable. The ringing tones of the 
 hammer, so peculiar in riveting, produces a troublesome 
 sensation to those not accustomed to such unharmouious 
 sounds. There are vessels in all stages of construction, 
 from the bare, skeleton-looking outline to the placing 
 of the machinery. The tonnage of vessels that are 
 turned oil the ways yearly aggregate millions. One 
 firm has just completed a very fine large steamer for 
 1 he Cunard company, the Pavonia. She registers eight 
 thousand four hundred and fitty tons; length, five hun- 
 dred and fifty-five feet; breadth of beam, sixty-five 
 feel ; depth of hold, fifty feet. She is built as a compan- 
 ion vessel for the Servia of the same line. These ships 
 are constructed looking more toward safety and com-
 
 44 Tc Europt and Back 
 
 fort than a high rate of speed, for they are not calcula- 
 ted to make more than sixteen to eighteen knots an 
 hour. This busy, musical scene, continues on both sides 
 Of the river for nearly eight miles, then we pass the 
 town of Renfrew, where there is also some shipping. 
 Some little distance inland is the old-fashioned town of 
 Paisely, the home of the great Clark thread manufacto- 
 ries. It is situated on a small stream called the White 
 Cart, noted for the extraordinary purifying qualities of 
 its water, furnishing a plentiful supply, ennabling them 
 to manufacture the very finest of thread and Paisely 
 shawls. Haifa century ago these fine fabrics were all 
 woven by hand loom weavers, which at that time were 
 a very numerous and justly famous class. Although 
 not gifted or blest with anything further than the rudi- 
 ments of education, yet, nevertheless, many were pos- 
 sessed of superior minds. Robert TannahiP, the wea- 
 ver poet, produced some of the sweetest lyric songs in 
 thelanguage. His " Braes of Gleniffer" are still dear to 
 the heart of every Scotchman. These famous weavers, 
 tiring of being seated at the loom so constantly, devoted 
 a considerable portion of their leisure hours to floricult- 
 ure. The pink was their favorite flower, und in grow- 
 ing this they excelled, their productions in tins line 
 bringing very remunerative prices, and to-day the cel- 
 ebrated Paisely pink is held in high estimation among 
 florists. There are a good many fine specimens ol this 
 favorite flower to be seen in the neighborhood of Paisely. 
 Further down the river on the opposite side is Dunbar- 
 ton with its grand old castle almost surrounded by 
 water at high tide. A very strong place, beetling over 
 a high almost perpendicular rock. No doubt many 
 strange scenes have* been enacted in this grim old build- 
 ing during the feudal times in the early history of the 
 country. Some miles north of this is the famous Loch 
 Lomond, with its grand mountain scenery; indeed, it 
 looks more like an Alpine picture than a quiet Scottish 
 pastoral scene. Not far from this is the great pass of 
 Lochard, where the outlaw MacGregor defied and kept 
 at bay a body of soldiers who were sent to capture him. 
 The scenery through this district is really grand and 
 majestic. Leaving Dun barton the monotonous ring of 
 ship-building partially ceases until we reach Greenock, 
 a city of some.sixty thousand inhabitants. Rain is said
 
 To Europe and Back. 45 
 
 to fall hero more or less two hundred days in a year. 
 For this we arc ready to vouch, for it mined every (, 
 we happened to pass that way. This is properly speak- 
 ing the beginning of the Frith of Clyde, and more com- 
 monly designated by "the tail of the bank," as sea-faring 
 men call it. Many large vessels are anchored out in the 
 middle of the stream either waiting for a tug and pilot 
 to guide them in or a high tide to 'carry them into port. 
 There are also quite extensive shipbuilding operations 
 carried on at this place. The estuary is nearly ten 
 miles in breadth at this point. Looking across, the neat 
 city of Helnsburg is in full view, beautifully situated at 
 the entrance to Loch Long. Further down the river on 
 the Greenock side is the old-fashioned town of Gouriek, 
 its principal industries being extensive fisheries, the 
 broad frith affording a plentiful supply and variety of 
 the finny family. The water is thickly dotted over 
 with different sorts of fishing crafts. Rounding the 
 point a little further on the same side in a lovely bend 
 of the river, is the beautiful town of Weymss Bay. This 
 has lately become a celebrated watering place and is 
 well patronized during the summer months. Right op- 
 posite on the coast of Bute is the charming village of 
 Dundoon, the dazzling whiteness of the cottages con- 
 trasting well with the beautiful green hills in the rear, 
 making a lovely picture. A few miles further north 
 the pretty little town of Blairmore stretches along the 
 shore for a considerable distance. 
 
 A little beyond this in a beautiful fairy looking alcove 
 at the mouth of a sylvan, leafy ravine, is Ardenteenie. 
 Here the poet Tannahill found bis maid of Ardenteenie. 
 Of course" she has long since passed away; but the 
 place is everything the simple weaver poet claimed for 
 it, for here nature has its fullest sway. Plow lavish sLie 
 has been in bestowing her sweet gifts of beauty, can 
 be seen in the soft grandeur around us. Many cozy 
 summer cottages are erected here where merchants and 
 their families can spend a month or two once a year and 
 have a short relaxation from business cares away from 
 the din and bustle of the large cities. While looking at 
 this lovely retreat a rather amusing incident occurred. 
 A lady and her husband, out for a few day's pleasure, 
 happened to be on our steamer. It looked as if they 
 had been enjoying themselves rather gloriously,
 
 46 To Europe and Back. 
 
 for it was very evident that both of them had imbibed 
 very freely, determined to keep their spirits up by pour- 
 ing spirits down. As is quite natural in such eases, a 
 quarrel ensued and a regular fight took place, but the 
 weaker sex this time proved to be the stronger, for she 
 soon blackened her liege lord's eyes lor him, threw his 
 new heaver hat overboard and completely demolished 
 a line new umbrella over Ids unprotected head. The 
 feminine heroine approached us and endeavored to ex- 
 plain matters, but we at oner declined to interfere or 
 endeavor to settle family differences A young lady 
 kept watching the proceedings with a great deal of in- 
 terest. Ol' course we thought she was taking lessons, 
 perhaps was engaged to be married, or something of that 
 sort; but we were agreably surprised to hear her burst 
 out in heartfelt indignation, upbraiding the husband for 
 cowardice. Naturally, we became much attached to 
 such a woman as t his, and remained pretty close to her 
 during the remainder of the trip. On the whole there 
 was a good deal of merriment at the expense of the 
 worthy couple, and it will he many days before we fail 
 to remember Ardenteenie. 
 
 Leaving this we pass through part of Loch Long, then 
 into Loch Goil, and are soon encircled among the mount- 
 ains. On the shores of this beautiful lakelet at the base 
 of the frowning hills, are numerous neat cottages peep- 
 inn' from among the thicket of soft green shrubbery. 
 Behiud this are a lew rows of forest trees, then the high 
 hills tower, beetling in curious shaped crags as if they at 
 any moment would topple over into th loch. Near the 
 head of the lake is the ruins of Oarrick Castle. Here the 
 Steamer changes her course a little and in a few minutes 
 teaches Loch Goil Head. A rather ominous sign board 
 is placed very conspicuously at the pier where the pass 
 engers disembark. The letters are very plain and large, 
 and read thus; "This is the way to Hell's Glen." Our 
 companions became a little alarmed at the locality we 
 were in and concluded that it would not be safe to go 
 any further. However, by a little reasoning they were 
 at last induced to step on shore and pass the fearful sign, 
 where we had a very comfortable dinner in this curious 
 mountain district. Here as well as at the other way 
 landings, the passengers pay the wharfage, each person 
 paying a half-penny— one cent — as they leave the
 
 To Europe and Back. 47 
 
 steamer and another when they go on board again. 
 You pass along a gangway Indian tilt", so there is no 
 chance for dodging ; away over the mountains from 
 here and we would soon reach Inverary, the principal 
 place in the western highlands. Steamers do not re- 
 main long here, so we soon rind ourselves in the Clyde 
 again. Westward from Dunoon is the famous and fairy- 
 like Kyles of Bute. The scenery here would com- 
 pare favorably with any to be seen on the celebrated 
 Rhine, in Switzerland. Up through these beautiful in- 
 lets you soon reach the west coast and are within sight 
 of the Hebrides. Further down the frith is the beautiful 
 island of Arran, then stretching out towards the Atlan- 
 tic is the barren looking mull of Cantyre; pass Alisa 
 Craig and you are out at sea. 
 
 Having enjoyed this trip so much, our resolves are 
 made to cross the Irish Sea to Erin, so in a few days we 
 make our way to Greenock, and amidst pouring rain 
 we step on board the steamer Duke of Arnyle, hound for 
 Ireland. So, with fair wind and pleasant sea, to-mor- 
 row's sun will shine upon us in Dublin Bay.
 
 LETTER NO, 9, 
 
 IN THE LAND OF THE SHAMROCK. 
 
 After a uiaht of rolling and tossing on the Irish Sea, 
 one is not in the very best condition to become enthused 
 with the appearance of the country ; but to say the least, 
 a sight of the high hills and verdant coast gives :i de- 
 cided feeling of relief, for if the pitching must continue, 
 there is something tO rest the eye upon and divert our 
 attention from the tread-miil, perpetual motion sort of 
 style. Skirting along the shore, a good view of the 
 country is obtained and the neat looking seaboard towns 
 on the Irish coast. 'The entrance to the Irish Sea 
 through the North Channel is rather narrow, tor land 
 is distinctly visible from Donaghadee, near Belfast and 
 Port Patrick, and the mull of Calloway on the Scotch 
 coast. The distance can not he more than forty miles. 
 Dundalk is a very pretty little town at the head of a 
 small inlet. The country has a pleasant appearance and 
 well adapted tor agricultural purposes. The surface of 
 the earth is gently rolling and apparently well cultiva- 
 ted. Next comes the old fashioned town of Drogheda, 
 a very important point for the shipment of stock to the 
 Liverpool and ( MasgOW markets. Several lines of Steam 
 cis are engaged in the trade These vessels also carry a 
 limited number ol passengers, but, although there may 
 be but one person in addition to the crew, that person 
 is very apt to conclude that he is one too many, for the 
 accommodations are of the poorest kind and the pass- 
 age quite the reverse of comfortable. The country here 
 does not appear to he very productive. The cattle are 
 driven from a long distance inland to this place for 
 shipment from the direction of Navan and the fine 
 grazing country near Mulliugar. Sheep are brought 
 here from points still further west in the line pastoral 
 region of Athlone and away nearly as far as the more 
 sterile country of Donegal, and north towards the line
 
 To Europe and Back. 49 
 
 sheep farming section, near the loveliest of spots, Ennis- 
 killen. Pigs are also brought in large quantities from 
 the surrounding counties, it being considered better to 
 bring them over land to this place for shipment, than 
 to risk a long and stormy passage from Gal way, by the 
 way of the North Channel; indeed, it looks something 
 like a miniature Donnvhrook fair, for men women and 
 children are engaged in bringing the productions of their 
 farms to market. 
 
 Southward the appearance of the country becomes 
 more cheerful, many parts thickly wooded and pretty 
 farm buildings. Then comes the Howth, a rocky prom- 
 ontory on which a beautiful lighthouse is erec ed. The 
 built 'rocks are passed, and we steam with sa'ety into 
 the famous Dublin Bay. On the south side of this pretty 
 inlet is the grand old city of Kingstown, a strongly for- 
 tified place containing a large garrison. This is one of 
 the neatest looking cities we have yet seen, seemingly 
 a very busy and prosperous place At present there is 
 much activity, for steamers are ready for the embarka- 
 tion of troops for Egypt. At the further end of the bay 
 is the mouth of the river Litfey. On the south side is 
 a stone pier many miles in length, the narrow platform 
 stretching far out into the sea. Tins is a very pretty 
 sight, but some would not care about having a prom- 
 enade thereon, for it is most certain to cause giddiness 
 to those not used to the water. So intent were we in 
 examining these beautiful approaches to the city, that 
 the discomforts of the past night fade away and we soon 
 realize that the grand city before us is Dublin, the capi- 
 tal of the Emerald Isle. Steaming up the Liftey we ob- 
 serve a cctisideiable amount of shipping and several 
 Atlantic lines, but the principal commerce is along the 
 coast of the British Islands. 
 
 Touching the pier there are many faces that appear 
 familiar to us, although never having seen them before. 
 No doubt we were thinking of and coupling them with 
 our many kind Hibernian friends at home ; indeed, wo 
 felt a sort of home feeling stealing over us as our feet 
 touch the shore. This is Eden Quay, a very appropri- 
 ate name, for there are many grand and majestic struct- 
 ures on the busy street The custom-house building is 
 really an imposing edifice. Having occasion to get a 
 little renovated in the shape of shoes, blacking, etc.,
 
 50 To Europe and Back. 
 
 our temporary valet very soon detected that our foot- 
 wear was of American manufacture. You may be 
 sure that there was no denial on our part; indeed, we 
 were proud to think that there was at least something 
 American about us, Of course we did not deem it nec- 
 essary to inform our friend of the brush and polish, that 
 they had been purchased from the celebrated boot and 
 shoe house of J. H. Pecor. He had admitted that the 
 polishing process was much easier accomplished on 
 these goods than the home make. We very promptly 
 informed him that this was a natural trait of the Amer- 
 ican nation susceptibility of taking on a fine polish. 
 Says he, "What do you think of our custom house?" 
 "Avery fine building," we replied. " Please step out 
 on the Key and examine it," he continued; " the finest 
 building in the world." As we looked up from the pier 
 we thought the assertion was rather broad and sweep- 
 ing. Doubtless he had not the least conception of the 
 magnificent structures to be seen in the United States. 
 However, the building was really a grand one, dark, 
 massive and of superior workmanship, occupying an en- 
 tire square, with a finely chiseled figure of Justice sur- 
 mounting the dome. The portals are heavy and awe- 
 some. A flight of huge stone steps leads to the front 
 entrance, and no doubt as ihe man had said it is the 
 grandest building in Great Britain, the poor fellow think- 
 ing, perhaps, that any place outside of old Erin was in- 
 significant and almost out of the world— his world at 
 least, for an Irishman dearly loves his country. Even 
 though it is sometimes a little unsettled, it is all the 
 pride of his heart. Living here is very cheap. The 
 poor fellow only charged us a penny — two cents — for 
 his trouble. We could not have obtained the same 
 amount of labor at home for less than twenty-five cents. 
 Hotel fare is also very reasonable. Very comfortable 
 quarters can be had including board for four shillings- 
 one dollar — per day. We were fortunate to secure good 
 accommodation in the Leinster House, at the foot of the 
 great Sackville street. 
 
 This is by far the finest street in the city or any street 
 in the country. A fine view of it is obtained from the 
 South Bridge The broad thoroughfare presents a busy 
 scene, hundreds of jaunting cars driving to and fro ready 
 for hire, also numerous tram car lines intersect this fine
 
 To Europe and Back. 51 
 
 street. The buildings are high and very massive and 
 very substantially built. Near the bridge is a beautiful 
 statue to the memory of the great orator and statesman, 
 Daniel O'Connell. Half way up the street near the 
 general postoffice stands a magnificent monument to 
 the memory of admiral Lord Nelson. The shaft is 
 comparatively plain. About twenty feet from the base 
 are the inscriptions of his numerous naval victories. 
 Crowning the whole structure at an extraordinary al- 
 titude is a fine figure of the great naval hero in admi- 
 ral's uniform. Taking it all in all, there is no finer 
 street than Sackville in her majesty's dominions. After 
 taking a good view of this portion of the city we cross 
 the Liffey by the King William bridge to the south side, 
 and then steer in the direction of Phoenix Park. On 
 this route we touch Dublin Castle, a very old looking 
 place. There are barracks and a few soldiers within 
 the enclosure, but no fortifications, and really it does 
 not have much the appearance of a castle. The most 
 imposing building in this section of the city is Christ's 
 Church, covering an entire square and of the most mod- 
 ern style of architecture. Near the park are very fine 
 buildings. Although a public highway leads through 
 the park, there are massive gates with policemen guard- 
 ing the entrance. To the right of the main road as you 
 enter there is a beautiful cottage, gateway and foot path, 
 which admits and leads through the decorative portion 
 of the grounds. These are very tastefully laid out and 
 neatly kept. In the lower part are numerous charming 
 lakelets covered with a soft verdure of water lilies, their 
 beautiful white flowers with pearly heads resting on the 
 water, presenting a lovely picture in the sunlight. This 
 floral portion of the grounds are entirely separated from 
 the park proper. At the southwest corner the highway 
 diverges offin three directions, south, north, and the 
 main one continuing westward. A grand public mon- 
 ument is here erected with a tiresome flight of steps a 
 long distance up to it. A little further on by the main 
 road is a drive that leads to the zoological garden, near the 
 banks of the Liffey. Still on the main highway about 
 half a mile further west on the right, some distance off, 
 is the residence of the lord lieutenant. Onward a few 
 steps to the left are several neatly rounded clumps of 
 trees.
 
 £2 To Europe and Back. 
 
 Here is the scene of the murder of Cavendish and 
 Burke. Near one of these clumps of trees the two were 
 eon versing, when they were attacked. Mr. Burke, af- 
 ter struggling with tin- assassin fur a distance of twenty 
 paces, was the first total! mortally wounded on the edge 
 of the foot-path. Lord Cavendish reached a few steps 
 hut her and fell lifelesson the side o! the highway. We 
 had the pleasure of meeting a party of ladies, who de- 
 scribed the whole affair very minutely and intelligently. 
 We picked up a pebble on the very spot where the men 
 fell and put it in our pocket as ;i memento. The dis- 
 tance from this place to S-iekville street is nearly five 
 miles and a rather lonely portion of the park. Mounted 
 police are now guarding the park and the approaches to 
 the lord lieutenant's residence. Tins reminds one of 
 watching the stable after the horse, is stolen. At the ex- 
 treme west end of the park is l he residence of the secre- 
 tary and his assistant. You may rest assured that we 
 did not neglect to thank our fair friends tor the informa- 
 tion they had so kindly given us. They also gave us 
 many other useful hints as to the places we ought to see 
 and when and how to see them. 
 
 Leaving Phoenix Park, our limhs are beginning to 
 ache from some cause or other, so we engage a seat on 
 the top of a passing tram car and are soon speeding 
 along by the side of the Lifley obtaining a fine view of 
 the numerous bridges that connect the south portion of 
 the city with the north, for the river courses through the 
 center of the town. Oar next move is in the direction 
 of (dassuevin cemetery and the botanical gardens. A 
 short distance from the entrance to the cemetery is the 
 O'Connell monument, a plain shaft, but the top is al- 
 most lost in the dizzy height. The simple word "O'Con- 
 nell" neatly cut on the base is the only inscription. A 
 llight of Steps leads down 10 the tomb. Here the locked 
 gate haired our way, but we finally prevailed on the 
 keeper to open it for us, even although it was a little in- 
 fringement on his rules. Here is a complete circle with 
 a series of vaults on eilherside. In the center is another 
 gate; inside this is the resting place of the great orator. 
 We entered herewith a feeling of awe. There is the 
 coffiu resting on a raised marble tablet enclosed by a 
 strong iron railing. The space between the bars 
 was sufficient to admit of our reaching through and
 
 To Europe and Back. 53 
 
 placing our hand on the polished o:\k casket which con- 
 tained the mouldering ashes of Ireland's greatest states- 
 man and liberator. This tomh and the adjoiuins vaults 
 
 have been opened during the last lew years. The old 
 site is some distance northward near the center of the 
 grounds There must be at least nearly a coup'e of 
 hundred acres in this city of the dead, and as in every 
 country we have visited, the system of leveling the 
 ground prevails; no mound to mark the last resting 
 place of a departed friend. The met boil appeared odi- 
 ous to us. but no doubt it must be a great saving of labor. 
 A very neat chapel is located near the entrance ; and ave- 
 nues of beautiful Irish yews, tall and arching at the top 
 over the neatly kept paths. 
 
 About bait' a mile eastward of this the botanical gar- 
 dens are located; very extensive grounds and we sup- 
 pose every species of plants known in the vegetable 
 kingdom are represented, and many fine specimens are 
 to be seen in and out of doors. We had foolishly formed 
 the idea that we knew something about flowers, plants 
 and trees, but a r ter looking over this grand display con- 
 clude in a rather crestfallen sort of spirit tb it our Un >wl- 
 edge was hut very Rupertici.il- However, it. does one 
 good sometimes to hive their ignorance shown up, and 
 we iiope the experience may prove beneficial to us some 
 day. In strolling through the suburb- of the city we 
 met with some very curious people. The most of the 
 country produce is* brought t> market in small carls 
 drawn' by donkeys. Most of these hardy animals are 
 very diminutive. Seeing dozens of them driving along 
 the turnpike is a very amusing sight to a stranger. Of 
 course, we felt at home and therefore at liberty to ex- 
 change a j>ke with some of them. One very small 
 donkey dragging quite a good sized load of peat for fuel, 
 took our attention. Seated on the top of the load was 
 an extremely corpulent lady, would certainly weigh at 
 the lowest calculation three inn idled pounds, avordupois. 
 In her hand :die held an ominous sprig of shillalah. 
 The picture did look too funny and we could not resist 
 the temptation of accosting her. "Poor fellow," wesaid 
 rather sympathetically, "he is too small for such a 
 heavy burden," at the' same lime looking rather archly 
 at the fat lady. Her answer was ready, '• Arrah cushla, 
 and its lazy lie is, the blackguard," and commenced a
 
 54 TV Europe and Bach. 
 
 terrible onslausht on the small creature. Of course, we 
 were sorry that the poor little donkey should get such a 
 severe drubbing through our interference, and tlvs was 
 another telling hint to us not to meddle in others' fam- 
 ily affairs. However, we left the lady in very good 
 humor with l he kind words mi her lips. " Arrab niesha, 
 gooil luck to you, me darlint." 
 
 Here the people generally speak the most charming 
 style of English it has ever been our good fortune to 
 hear. Their pronunciation is perfect and the voice has 
 a sweet musical tone about it that, commands attention^ 
 indeed we loved to hear the beautiful dark-eyed colleens 
 rolling forth this beautiful style of English. 
 
 Taking the train southward, you pass through a 
 love'y country, thrift and industry are to be seen at 
 nearly every homestead, but like our own country at 
 home, there are numbers of idlers and agitators whose 
 only method of earning a living is by agitating some 
 question in which the farmer has a slight grievance, 
 and this is one of tiie greatest evils which affects the 
 isle <>f Erin. The industrious, law-abiding citizen is 
 just as much opposed to this state of agitation, crime 
 ami murder as any loyal citizen of the United .States. 
 On through the county Kerry the farms are well culti- 
 vated. In this direction we soon reach Tipperary. This 
 district is of a somewhat boggy nature, the farms 
 not so extensive and the cabins much smaller, but even 
 here l hen- is happiness, lor we can hear t lie sweet, 
 plaintive me'ody, " Kathleen Mavourneen," then a 
 more lively air from Aileeu as she stands at the door of 
 her father's humble cabin. Oh, could you love a fair 
 Irish girl whose heart is as light as a fairy. Oh, could 
 you love a nice Irish girl from the county of sweet Tip- 
 perary. It warmed our heart to think that there was 
 so much happiness and rollicking humor in the country 
 districts. The town of Tipperary is quite large and a 
 very pretty place; indeed, we loved to linger there, 
 hut the return part of our ticket is pointing us to Edin- 
 burgh at an early date. A little to the west of this is 
 Kilkenny, with a line old castle near by. A celebrated 
 breed of cats is raised in this section. How profitable 
 the business may he we are unable to say. We have 
 not. time to get. so far as the famous lakes of Killarney, 
 so will leave them and the Blarney Stone for our next
 
 To Europe and Back. 55 
 
 visit. One hundred and twenty miles north of Dublin 
 is the fine city of Belfast. The people and the landscape 
 here have pretty much a Scottish appearance, hut we 
 must hurry, for it is Hearing harvest and we must spend 
 a few days among the blooming heather on the Gram- 
 pian hills.
 
 LETTER NO, 10, 
 
 ON THE GRAMPIAN HILLS. 
 
 About the lust week in August is the proper time to 
 visit this historic- range of mountains, for then you can he- 
 hold the splendor and the magnificent glories of a high- 
 land landscape. The atmosphere is pleasantly cool and 
 bracing. The whole aspect of the country lias assumed 
 a beautiful pinkish hue for the heather is now in full 
 flower and its fragrance pervades the hilltops, the rug- 
 ged slopes and the valleys below. In appearance this 
 hardy little plant is a dwarfish, bushy shrub from ten 
 to eighteen inches in height, the leaves fine and have 
 a good deal of resemblance to some of the varieties of 
 yews. The delicate pink flowers are borne in racemis, 
 presenting a very pleasant and striking appearance. 
 This is the hardiest of the Erica family, growing and 
 luxuriating in the most sterile mountain districts, hut it 
 most a bd( >l utely refuses to i>e transferred to another lo- 
 cation ; indeed, this heautiful species will not thrive un- 
 der cultivation, and is, therefore entirely indigenous to 
 those barrel) mountain slopes. The soil in which it 
 finds a congenial home is one of hlackish turfy nature, 
 and large tracts are dug up, or rather skinned every year, 
 for the fibrous roots of the plant and die turfy soil burns 
 nicely giving out a strong cheerful glow, the red ashes 
 retaining the heat for a considerable length of time. 
 The mountain cottages depend largely on this for pro- 
 tection from the cold dining the long snowy winter 
 months. 
 
 In this section of the country, although you are stand- 
 ing on a highly elevated platform, luing many feet 
 above s< j a level, you fail to discover a solitary tree as far 
 as your eye can reach, and you can see a long distance 
 if the day he clear. The most conspicolls portion of 
 this long chain is mount Hat lock, its summit bordering 
 on three counties, Aberdeen, Kincardine and Forfar.
 
 To Europe and Baca. 57 
 
 A magnificent view is obtained at this spot, and you 
 are completely hemmed in by mountains. Away at 
 tilt' base in the valley below the picture is curious and 
 grotesque A bluish smoke is seen slowly oozing and 
 curling upwards from a sideling, almost hidden in the 
 deep recess of some ravine. A crystal streamlet is 
 wimpling in many roundings and turnings through the 
 sombre green valley. Here and there are small patches 
 of cultivated laud, while scattered through the glen are 
 numerous sheep folds used in securing the flocks at 
 shearing time, for ibis is really a pastoral district, the 
 flocks being numbered by thousands and pastures miles 
 instead of acres. Many shepherds, accompanied by their 
 trusty canine friends, are to be seen lazily seated on 
 some sunny knoll watching their fleecy charge dotted 
 so thickly over the mountain side. We wonder if any 
 of these Grampian shepherds are the father of young 
 Norval, who is said to have fed his flocks in this re- 
 gion, exercising the most rigid frugality, also taking the 
 greatest care 10 keep his boy Norval at home, but like 
 many other parents who have wise plans and 
 purposes laid out for their children, old Mr. Nerval had 
 the mortification of seeing Ids wayward boy, an only 
 son, follow a fierce, warlike chief to the field to seek that 
 bubble reputation at the cannon's mouth. 
 
 Thinking of these old stories, the feeling of quietude 
 becomes almost unbearable. What a strange stillness to 
 one not used to such scenes! Scarcely a sound is heard 
 save the bleating of the herds and the faint murmuring 
 of some distant streamlet hurrying and rushing down 
 the rugged steeps to join the larger stream in the valley 
 below. Sometimes, though, this peaceful monotony is 
 broken by some solitary shepherd attempting to amuse 
 himself aiid beguile the passing hour by practicing on the 
 bagpipes. The melody is very pleasing ; indeed, tins is 
 the only place in which this class of music is endurable. 
 It is sweet and soul-stirring to hear the pibroch sound- 
 ing deep over the mountain and glen. 
 
 Looking southward from this elevated spot, a beauti- 
 ful view of the valley of Locblee is obtained with a 
 small lake at the head of the glen. A church, a few 
 1 batched cottages and several small farm houses and 
 shielings, are located in this curious cavity among the 
 mountains, but although it is very pleasaut in this re-
 
 $8 To Europe and Back. 
 
 gion during the summer, and we behold nature in its 
 wildest grandeur and the scenery all that could be de- 
 sired, yet a stranger would not relish passing a winter 
 among them, for the snowfall is extremely lengthy and 
 very heavy, very often lasting for months. We had the 
 courage to hint to one of the parishioners that it must 
 be a very difficult task getting to the sanctuary on Sun- 
 day to hear the word expounded during these violent 
 and protracted snow storms and drifts which this region 
 is so often subjected to during the winter months. To 
 our astonishment, a peculiar smile gathered on his usu- 
 ally sober serious, face as he answered our remarks. 
 He very soon let us know that it was a good deal more 
 pleasant to attend church in the winter than during the 
 long summer days. This seemed rather funny, so we 
 were obliged to call for an explanation, which was 
 given as follows : " You see, there are some advantages 
 in attending chinch services in the depth of winter that 
 are never thought of during the summer, a real spirit- 
 ual advantage." " How can that be," we inquired. 
 " Well," he continued with the same broad grin of 
 pleasure on his face, " winter a year ago was a very se- 
 vere one hereabouts, the snow much deeper and lasted 
 longer than any I had ever seen before and I am a 
 pretty old man ; have seen nearly three score and ten of 
 them, and the drifts were something extraordinary. 
 It smothered entire herds of sheep in yonder hollow 
 away up the glen. Why, sir, you have nothing to equal 
 it in North America, you hav'nt." " Well," was re- 
 plied, " that may be so ; but what has this terrible snow 
 storm got to do with making it a pleasure in attending 
 divine service during the winter in access of summer." 
 " Well," he said, " I was just about reaching that point 
 when you interrupted me. This pleasant business be- 
 gan one very stormy Sunday and the snow was fearful 
 deep, reaching most to our knees. Only six of us made 
 our way ami reached the kirk. The beadle had exca- 
 vated a way to the door and built a fire, hut the place 
 was awfully cold ; no seraphic tire in the building that 
 day. Of course, Sandy McNabb, the minister's man 
 and beadle informed his master as to the extent and con- 
 dition of his congregation, whereupon he determined 
 on seeing us at the parsonage, so much more pleasant 
 there he thought, of course lor him ; he did not have to
 
 To Europe and Baca. 59 
 
 tnckle the deep snow. Ah, preachers are far-seeing and 
 know a great deal, and sometimes we fancy tbink on 
 topics that are nearly the reverse of sacred. As he sur- 
 mised it was decidedly pleasant. Sandy, with a bow, 
 ushered Duncan McTavish, myself and the other four 
 into the best room, where the parson was sitting toast- 
 ing his feet at a checful peat fire. "My friends," he be- 
 gan in solemn tones, "be seated. Your piety is certainly 
 deserving of reward, coming out on sucb a day, and re- 
 ally your presence was not expected this sabbath day, 
 consequently no sermon has been prepared ." So, as he 
 could not warm our hearts with a spiritual lesson, he 
 would endeavor to instil warmth into our physical na- 
 ture by infusing into us a flowing dram of real old 
 mountain whisky, and he assured us that it would do us 
 more good on sucb a day than twenty sermons, and he 
 was right, for we started home with merry hearts re 
 joicing. We kept it up every Sunday as long as the 
 snowy weather continued which was several months, 
 and you may rest assured that the whole party were 
 sorry when the warm sun dispelled the snow, the min- 
 ister included." We could not help laughing at tfcke 
 aged mountaineer's earnestness. "Last winter," he re- 
 marked, " was a complete failure, for the weather was 
 open the entire season, consequently no pleasant par- 
 sonage meetings." The idea was an entirely new one 
 to us, but on the whole a good one and a commendable 
 plan on the part of the parson, and we could not help 
 thinking that our ministerial friends at home would do 
 well in imitating this Scotch divine a little, if it did not 
 come up to their proper standard of piety. Such a 
 course would most certainly insure a full attendance no 
 matter how inclement the weather might be, and no 
 doubt the contribution box would profit by it also. 
 
 Leaving our loquacious friend in bright anticipations 
 of the coming winter, our eyes scan the western horizon. 
 What a protracted chain, Gleuisla, Clova and many 
 other beautiful glens and valleys, where the blood of 
 mauy a gallant chief has stained the heather. At the 
 western extremity of this chain is the spot where the 
 witches met the great Macbeth and barred his way with 
 such prophetic greeting, really a weird and fanciful spot ; 
 just in keepiug with the dark tragedy enacted. East- 
 ward is the famous Stone of Cloknabane, an immense
 
 60 To Europe and Bark. 
 
 natural structure of rock leaning at an angle of forty-five 
 degrees towards the south, and a stranger is very apt to 
 conclude that its overturn is certain, but there it re- 
 mains a curious .object fur visitors. Southward and we 
 come to another lower range. 
 
 Among these the famous hill of Wirren is the most 
 conspicuous and by far the prettiest of the series. Sev- 
 eral kinds of fruits are found growing here in abundance, 
 blue huckleberries and aiiverns being the best and most 
 plentiful, the former very large and palatable, the lat- 
 ter in much the style and shape of the wild strawberry, 
 but it has a very bitter acrid flavor. Abundance of 
 pure water is found bubbling up in many places along 
 the mountain side. A luxuriant growth of water 
 cresses covers the cool limpid stream as it meanders 
 down the hill. Drinking from these crystal fountains 
 and partaking of the crisp, pungent cress is certainly 
 very pleasant and refreshing. Game of a certain class 
 is here found in abundance, hares and grouse. The 
 first is rather an interesting animal, in appearance is 
 much the shape and form of our rabbit, hut much lar- 
 ger. Its peculiarity lies in the changeahleness of its 
 color. During the summer it presents a bluish gray, to- 
 wards fall the hue is much lighter and by Christmas its 
 fur assumes a beautiful snow-white appearance, and 
 'his is the proper season for hunting The other species 
 is a very pretty bird about three times the size of our 
 partridge or quail. The color is a glossy blackish brown, 
 habit much the same as the quail. The season for 
 huntiug commences on the 12lh of August, and we can 
 already hear the sharp crack 01 the- sportsman's fowling 
 piece. 
 
 On a short distance further south is yet a still lower 
 range of hills. The principal of these aie the Cattcr- 
 thun's, three in number, the white, brown and gray. 
 Warlike bands several centuries ago occupied these low 
 hills as a battle-ground. It was supposed to be a law- 
 less marauding band cal ed the Caterings, but the his- 
 tory is far from being authentic, but the appearance of 
 the place certainly indicates that large bodies of men 
 hail encamped then- someday. The White Cater is the 
 most notable of the three, and many pleasure seekers 
 frequent it during the summer months. The south side 
 is thickly covered with larch timber, the trees near the
 
 To Europe and Baca. 6 1 
 
 summit being rather dwarfish and stunted. In the 
 center of the rounded top is a curious cavity, the huge 
 walls of rough loose boulders rising twelve to fifteen 
 feet above it. There are several acres in this hollowed 
 circle, all naturally set in grass, very soft and pleasant 
 to walk upon. We understand it has become a celebra- 
 ted place for holding picnics. The Brown is about a 
 mile east of the White and is covered with a luxuriant 
 crop of heather, furze and broom. We spent several 
 very pleasant days on these two hills with very kind 
 and agreeable companions. We even had the pleasure 
 ofmeetingthe"lassofGowrie." Such running and leap- 
 ing and rolling and turning, but our limbs did ache by 
 eventide. 
 
 After this comes the lowlands with rich farms and 
 beautiful fields teeming with wavy yellow grain ready 
 for harvest, and from all quarters the song of the reap- 
 ers are heard, and above all other noise and tumult the 
 familiar whir of the American reaper falls upon our ear, 
 for no farm be it ever so small is considered complete 
 without it has one or more of these machines. The peo- 
 ple are not tortured with jealousy because we have 
 fairly eclipsed and superceded them in the manufacture 
 of agricultural implements; on the contrary they are 
 proud to think that they are capable of working an ar- 
 ticle of American production and willingly give us 
 credit for having that ingenuity which has made the 
 American nation famous all the world over. The 
 country here is well adapted for the use of these grand 
 Champion reapers so popular in the United States, the 
 fields being very smooth, no stumps to drive around, no 
 ugly pieces of rock projecting to cause mishap or break- 
 age, consequently they can beset to cut very close to the 
 ground. The crops are also much thicker and finer in 
 the straw than is generally seen on our farms in Ken- 
 tucky. The laborers complain a little that it is much 
 harder work following these reapers than the scythe and 
 sickle. They say there is no chance for them to raise 
 their head at all ; but no doubt this will be remedied to 
 a certain extent in a few years, for some of the most 
 wealthy farmers have already introduced the new twine 
 binder, but they do not seem to comprehend this com- 
 plicated machine; indeed, itrequires a person possessed 
 of considerable mechanical ingenuity to fully under- 
 stand these great labor-saving institutions.
 
 62 To i.u oj : and Back. 
 
 As we wandered about among the merry harvesters, 
 we could not help thinking what a grand held of oper- 
 ation this would be for our esteemed friend, Edward 
 Myall. How beautifully could he describe these self- 
 binders and how grandly and minutely could he instruct 
 them in the mysteries of working them. We are satis- 
 fied that hfe would either explain and convince, or assist 
 these industrious Scottish farmers to their last resting 
 place. It would have given us much pleasure to have 
 Uad our friend with us in these sweet harvest scenes. 
 
 Time is passing and the mornings and evenings are 
 becoming slightly cool and unpleasant, and we are be- 
 ginning to look with a longing eye homeward, having 
 seen a good deal of our native land, and though our 
 home no more, yet very dear to us, its history and its 
 associations swell our heart almost to overflowing. 
 There is a strange feeling of joy and sadness comes over 
 us as the day is set for our return ; joy on the one hand 
 that if all went well with us, we would soon again be- 
 hold the beautiful stars and stripes floating proudly in 
 the breeze and waving above our head protectingly ; on 
 the other hand, how sad to leave every kindred tie we 
 had on earth, and many dear little ones unwilling to 
 bid us good bye. A sweet little two year old girl even 
 volunteered to go with us; bless her dear little heart, 
 we never can forget her. It is now the middle of Sep- 
 tember and we will soon be on our way to Glasgow, 
 homeward bound.
 
 LETTER NO, 11, 
 
 HOMEWARD BOUND. 
 
 There are naturally more exciting scenes at the depart- 
 ure of a steamship from a European port than a vessel 
 leaving the American side, for in the latter case most of 
 the passengers are in expectancy of a speedy return to 
 the shores of freedom, while in the former nearly all 
 are leaving their native land perhaps forever. Friday. 
 September loth, finds us once more in Glasgow, joining 
 with and helping to swell the busy throng. 
 
 At Mavis Bank Key lies the steamship State of In- 
 diana. Towards this our steps are directed, for we have 
 resolved to take passage in her even though she did sail 
 on Friday, that terrible unlucky day. However, they 
 say we were born on the sixth day of the week, so it 
 can make no difference, for according to superstitious 
 ideas, it cannot change our fate. We are compelled to 
 draw a veil over our own departure, and become inter- 
 ested in what is taking place around us. All passengers 
 are aboard, and at 1:20 p. m. the moorings are loosened, 
 and the vessel drops slowly from the pier. The number 
 of onlookees is something extraordinary. Some are 
 there through curiosity, others are bidding good-bye to 
 friends and loved ones, and many perhaps have said a 
 last farewell, for we notice many standing on the pier 
 H-ith hearts bowed down in sadness, the tears of honest 
 affection coursing down many a furrowed cheek, and 
 youthful eyes are also filled with moisture ; no doubt 
 there are parents, brothers and sisters, and there may 
 be sweethearts seeing loved ones off for the glorious land 
 of their adoption, the "home of the brave and the 
 free." 
 
 What a funny motley spectacle the fine steamer pre- 
 sents as she drifts down' the Clyde, people of every grade 
 and temperament. What a promiscuous assortment 
 of trunks and boxes, from the finest traveling outfit to
 
 64 To Europe ana Back. 
 
 the old-fashioned skin covered trunk that had been 
 handed down from generation to generation perhaps for 
 centuries; hundreds of strange looking bundles appar- 
 ently containing more weight of twine in wrapping than 
 the contents of the package. What a number of curious 
 tin boxes, hand satchels and portmoniaes. Here we no- 
 tice that the tin box is an indespensible article in a lady's 
 outfit. True, we' are unable to say knowingly what it 
 contains, but have our suspicions that it must be hats 
 or bonnets of the latest fashion, no doubt. Tbere are no 
 ringing cheers to encourage us over the pathless deep, 
 for there were too many sad hearts to admit of any show 
 of merry making. Perhaps with a sigh those on shore 
 turn away after a long look at the gallant ship fast dis- 
 appearing in the distance. 
 
 As the shades of evening deepen, amidst a thick driz- 
 zling rain, we, along with many others, watch the reced- 
 ing shores of the Mull of Cantyre on the one side and 
 the beautiful Ayrshire coast on the other. Morning 
 finds us once more embracing the coast of Erin, and 
 touch the pier at the quaint little town of Larne. twenty 
 miles north of Belfast. Here we are detained for fifteen 
 hours until the cargo of freight and the passenger list 
 are completed. The day being fine it gave a good op- 
 portunity of enjoyment on shore Abundance of jaunt- 
 ing cars are ready for hire to take you through all the 
 pleasant drives about the place, and really there is a 
 good deal to be seen. The long stretch of beautiful, 
 snowy, pebbly beach is perfectly charming. We could 
 not resist the temptation of gathering some relics on 
 the shore, for they looked so pretty. This place used to 
 be the largest and finest lime producing district in the 
 country, many crafts being engaged in conveying it to 
 the different ports; but of late years the introduction of 
 railroads has changed the commerce to other places 
 leaving old Larne only doing a small business in tins 
 industry. The State Line Steamship Company has 
 made it a place of considerable importance by making 
 it a stopping point for their steamers out and in. ■ 
 
 At midnight, after having spent a very pleasant day, 
 all is readiness for sea, and we are soon standing out to- 
 wards the ocean. We fe't a little uneasy, for it was a 
 noticeable fact that the ship's crew had been spending 
 the day rather gloriously, imbibing too freely of the cel- 
 ebrated Irish poteen, and we were also aware that the
 
 To Europe and Back. 65 
 
 coast was a dangerous one, requiring skill and sobriety 
 to navigate safely through among those treacherous hid- 
 den rocks, but the approach of daylight dispelled our 
 fears, for nearly all landmarks had disappeared and the 
 motion of the vessel indicated that she was getting into 
 the swell of the Atlantic and deep water. Large waves 
 were breaking over the deck both fore and aft. The 
 sumptous breakast table is all but deserted, and the sav- 
 ory victuals are left untouched. Out of the eighty per- 
 sons belonging to our tables only six of us put in an ap- 
 pearance. Heads ache, hearts are sad, and stomachs in 
 a very unsettled condition. Our fair companions suf- 
 fered severely ; indeed, the condition of many of them 
 was most wretched, and were this to be called the most 
 miserable of days it would be a very fitting term, and 
 we have no doubt had our passengers been placed on 
 terra firma at this moment, ninety-nine per cent, of 
 them would have preferred remaining there. 
 
 Although it was Sunday, no church bells are ringing 
 inviting us to worship, not because of any lack of minis- 
 ters, tor there were eight or ten of different denomina- 
 tions on board, but they, too, felt that mother ocean 
 was more than a match for their physical constitution, 
 and therefore unable to hold meetings and preach the 
 word. We were not to say alarmed to find so many 
 clergy among us, but our astonishment knew no bounds. 
 What on earth could be inducing them to try their for- 
 tunes in America ? The gentlemen were certainly 
 making a mistake, for we were fully satisfied there were 
 but few openings in the religious profession in that 
 country and always plenty of home talent to fill the 
 ranks as the aged veterans step off the stage of life. 
 However, there they were from the street evangelist to 
 the most Puritanic Presbyterian, We never did ascer- 
 tain what part of the country they were bound for or re- 
 ally what they proposed doing, but we could not help 
 thinking to ourself that they were making pretty much a 
 wild goose chase of it, 
 
 During the afternoon a slight mishap occurred. The 
 hatches away forward had been opened to admit of 
 ventilation for the steerage apartments, when a heavy 
 wave broke over the bow and rushed down the open 
 hatchways entirely deluging the rooms below and par- 
 tially submerging and scaring the occupants. However,
 
 06 To Jiurofe and Bach. 
 
 no serious damage was dune save making it very mi 
 pleasant for a short time. On the whole the merry 
 party of the night before have all hut disappeared. 
 
 Strong men in tlie hill vigor of manhood are stricken 
 down, eyes east down and faces pale and haggard. The 
 sweetest of feminine loveliness is completely prostrated, 
 and moans of deepest anguish are escaping from the 
 pale lips of those so brilliant and entertaining the eve- 
 ning before. The soft couches in the saloon are not 
 more exempt from sickness than those huddled together 
 on the hard, filthy hoards of the steerage, 
 
 At 10 p. m the sea is much the same, wind fresh 
 from northwest. Put out the main sail to help steady 
 the vessel a little. Next morniue, the third day out, 
 the weather, wind and water, exhibit no changes. We 
 cannot begin to do justice in describing the picture, can 
 only leave it to imagination. About live hundred peo- 
 ple congregated on the wet, slippery deck of a ship at sea 
 only partially recovered from the effects of the two first 
 nights rolling and tossing on the briny deep, rocked in 
 the cradle of perpetual motion Meet the steamship 
 Anchorii, of the Anchor line, bound for the Clyde. 
 All well. Fourth day the weather is more pleasant, 
 p issengers feeling better and hopes becoming brighter; 
 indeed, we can detect a faint smile on the faces of some 
 of our fair companions. This was a sure indication that 
 the worst was over. A very fine horse through the 
 lurching and tossing of the steamer, gets broke down 
 and dies. The carcass is soon hoisted by steam power 
 and dropped over from the fort castle, food for the sharks 
 and large fishes. We could not help thinking as the 
 fine animal drifted astern how soon some of our human 
 family might share the same fate, a sailor's burial, 
 dropped into the mighty deep with a stamn's cloak 
 around them. Night comes again, throwing its sable 
 mantle over the deep. The sea is comparatively 
 smooth. Shifting breeze from north to south, not filling 
 the sail on the foreyards; the main staysiailsare furled, 
 and all retire early, hopeful of securing a pleasant 
 night's rest, which the steady motion of the vessel 
 promised. 
 
 Fifth day. How the many hearts on board bounded 
 with delight on opening their eyes. After a night of 
 comfortable repose, the once turbulent waters now
 
 To Europe and Back. 67 
 
 smooth and calm, not a ripple on its surface, like a pol- 
 ished mirror glistening and sparkling- in the sunlight, 
 the tine vessel gliding swiftly making twelve knots ati 
 hour. Most of our fellow passengers are on deck seem- 
 ingly happy, bright and cheerful and not without hope. 
 The ladies' smiles are real now, the fair cheeks have all 
 hut lost the ashy paleness of the previous days, and the 
 children are romping about in high glee. Even the 
 ship surgeon is idly folding his hands or at times play- 
 iug shuffle board with the young folks. By-the way, 
 this is a very good occupation for doctors generally. 
 The wind veers round to nearly south and the yards are 
 again set rilling moderaely. The dinner table is crowded, 
 which fact explains the condition of the passengers. 
 .Some have strong walking propensities, very good 
 amusement, walking the plank without a break, keep- 
 ing the motion of the ship. Some of the young ladies 
 skip the rope to perfection. One of the Alan line 
 steamers pass us to the starboard bound for Glasgow. 
 Have divine service and sacred reading at 8 p. m., 
 rather slimly attended, many other recreations being in 
 progress at "the time. Rain sets in with a stiff head 
 wind, and we are once more running under bare poles. 
 
 Sixth day. Fair and bright, water smooth and 
 pleasant, other features on boa'd much the same as the 
 preceding. W£ find veiy agreeable companions in the 
 MacGregor brothers, no doubt descendants of the an- 
 cient clans from the romantic districts of Loch Lo- 
 mond. 
 
 Seventh day. Very little change observable. All are 
 happy and hopeful ; we suspect, though, that there are 
 some slight flirtations going on, but we are far from 
 being skillful or perceptive in such matters and may 
 be mistaken. 
 
 Eight day. Cool and very foggy, smooth water, large 
 shoals of porpoises seen sporting in the water, and two 
 large dolphins descried a mile to leeward. By noon 
 the haze clears away and we have the pleasure of a 
 beautifui moonlight night. Pass a Norwegian bark 
 bound for Montreal. 
 
 Xmth day. Sunday, very foggy, for we are on the 
 banks of Newfoundland, and the prevalence of the sea- 
 weed indicates that our vessel is in the gult stream. 
 Three days more of fair weather will bring us to the 
 
 rr
 
 68. To Europe and Bad-. 
 
 port of New York. Have divine service morning and 
 evening, and the ninth day passes very quietly. 
 
 Tenth day. Still foggy and damp. Have an exhi- 
 bition showing the dexterity of the crew in handling 
 the life boats in case of accident. The fire department 
 is also called out to prove their efficiency in subduing 
 the flames in case of fire. To us landsmen it was a 
 novel and interesting sight, but were much better 
 pleased to have it a sham performance than reality. 
 The lights of Cape Race are observed about midnight 
 many miles to larboard. 
 
 Eleventh day. We are nearing land. At 5 a. m. 
 have the pleasure of seeing the comet ; cannot say 
 whether we were the discoverer or not. It had a fine ap- 
 pearance with the tail reflected on the smooth water 
 astern of us. The day is fine and the steamer is plough- 
 ing the waves beautifully. At noon we are only three 
 hundred miles oft Sandy Hook. There is a fair wind 
 and a strong, bowling sea on, and all on board are 
 bright and merry and as night deepens all join in sing- 
 ing " Auld Laug Syne," for it was the last night we 
 would be together. Even the clergymen lay aside their 
 solemn looks and smile in a manner they had perhaps 
 never done before. 
 
 Twelftn day. Early morning finds us within sight of 
 the lighthouse oft Nantucket, and soon the shores of 
 Rhode Island are visible, then the coast of Manhattan 
 with fine buildings discernable on ttie beach. Pass the 
 lightship, skirt the coast of Long Island and by noon 
 we are oft" Sandy Hook, sixteen miles from New York. 
 The water is thickly studded witli crafts of all shapes 
 and sizes, some standing out to sea, others like ourselves 
 making for port. Governor and Staten islands loom up 
 before us as we approach the Narrows. Something 
 strikes us that the country we are approaching is Amer- 
 ica, for on a rocky promontory in large letters visible a 
 mile distant is an advertisement of the great tonic, Hop 
 I .liters. Pass the forts and we behold the glories of 
 New York harbor, with the grand suspension bridge 
 connecting Williamsburg with New York in the dis- 
 tance. The tine harbor presents a lively picture, and to 
 give a good description would till many pages, so we 
 leave it for the present 
 . At 3 p. m. we touch the pier and are soon once more
 
 To Europe and Back. 69 
 
 on terra firma. Adieus are said, and our happy family 
 separate with little hope of ever meeting again. The 
 custom house officers are very courteous and kind, 
 being easily satisfied in examiningour baggage. Spend 
 a short time in the Empire City, and conclude that it 
 is about the liveliest place we have seen during our 
 travels. A home feeling comes over us and we look , 
 wistfully further westward ; take passage on the B. and 
 O. R. R. and speed along through New Jersey and Del- 
 aware. The centennial grounds are passed, then our 
 train is ferried across the bay to Baltimore, where there 
 is several hours delay, giving us time to partake of the 
 worst dish of oysters we had ever tasted, which con- 
 vinced us that these bivalves improve by being shipped 
 some distance from their natural element. See the 
 spires and turrets of the capital as we pass ; skirt along 
 the shores ot the great Potomac. All was quiet, no din 
 of battle; but its waters were rusbing and filling the 
 banks. Pass Harper's Ferry ; did not see John Brown, 
 neither did we stop, but like his soul, we kept marching 
 on; through the Cumberland valley and the famous 
 Blue Ridge mountains; cross the Ohio river at Parkers- 
 burg and soon reach the Queen City, then by steamer 
 Telegraph to Maysville. 
 
 Home again, fifteen days from Glasgow ; distance 
 nearly four thousand miles ; cost of the trip in the 
 neighborhood of $300. Hand shaking, kind embraces 
 and pleasant words are awaiting us. How our heart 
 bounded with joy to grasp the hand of those dear friends 
 extending us such a hearty welcome. The sight of 
 those kind faces almost unnerve us; indeed, it is 
 too much for us so down goes the curtain ; let tender 
 words be spoken only behind the scenes. 
 
 Now we are done, having written these letters in a 
 simple way just as the incidents happened, so please do 
 not be to critical. Wishing our friends on either side of 
 the Atlantic best wishes and a happy new year, not 
 forgetting to wish the New Republican and its thous- 
 ands of kind readers a happy and prosperous new year, 
 we bow our head and say adieu. 
 
 These letters were written for the New Republican at the 
 close of tlie year 1882.
 
 MISCELLANEOUS, 
 
 A SCOTCH WEDDING. 
 
 During our summer rambles in Scotland we had the 
 good fortune to receive an invitation to be present at 
 one of those most blissful occasions, a genuine Scotch 
 wedding. They still adhere to the same old custom of 
 a quarter of a century ago. The calling of the bans is 
 the starting point, tbis is done in the parish church, on 
 usually the three Sundays preceding the marriage. 
 Some'by paying a little more get off with one Sunday 
 in church, as they call it, the cost of this is from $2 to $5 ; 
 then the day and the hour is fixed and the minister 
 asked to perform the ceremony. This he cheerfully 
 complies with, although he receives no pecuniary rec- 
 ompense for his trouble, for he never loses sight of the 
 fact that marriage is a sacrament and consequently con- 
 siders it to be his duty to administer same to the mem- 
 bers of his congregation free of charge, often driving 
 many miles in the country on tins peculiar business at 
 his own expense. You may rest assured that we 
 availed ourselves of the kind invitation and were on 
 hand in good time to see the nuptial knot securely fast- 
 ened. Tbe impatient bridegroom reported at the resi- 
 dence of the bride's parents nearly an hour before the 
 time appointed. Tins is a very common mistake on the 
 part of the sterner sex all the world over, for they have 
 not the proper appreciation or enough consideration as 
 to the mysteries of a lady's toilet, and the length of 
 time to make her presentable. A goodly number of 
 friends and relations have arrived, among them many 
 bonnie country lassies; tbe parson is seen coming in 
 the distance with slow and solemn steps, on such an 
 errand. A curious stillness prevails as he enters, the 
 groom stands up with a pale frightened look about him, 
 he no doubt realizes the importance of the extraordinary 
 step he is taking, the bride comes forward, very bashful
 
 Jo Europe and Back. 71 
 
 and modest, a scarlet blush mantles her cheek, the us- 
 ual Presbyterian questions are asked and answered in 
 the affirmative: I pronounce you husband and wife, 
 join hands sayeth the preacher, and all is over. Like 
 magic the whisky bottle comes upon the scene, the rev- 
 erend gentleman is the first to propose the health of the 
 newly united couple, and wishing them the fullness of 
 joy and future happiness quaffs off his glass and has the 
 consideration to leave at once. The company is greatly 
 relieved at his departure, for the mirth becomes fast 
 and furious. Supper is spread with true Scotch fare, 
 including good large bannocks of oaten meal, full just- 
 ice done then beer goes round, the rooms are cleared 
 then dancing begings after another round of Mountain 
 Dew. Such leaping and swinging, twisting and turn- 
 ing, it certainly made us laugh our fill, there was 
 scarcely breathing time for three long hours. Before 
 midnight the merry makers are beginning to show the 
 effects of the three hours active exercise. We then re- 
 membered that the clergyman had neglected part of 
 his duty — namely, kissing the bride, of course we very 
 blushingly performed it for him, at the same time tak- 
 ing very good care to notice that the groom had just 
 stepped out. Hewever the young lady was a near rel- 
 ative of ours, so it did no harm, and thus the evening 
 is spent very pleasantly and at the weesma hours, after 
 partaking of a parting glass of Glenlivot each laddie 
 takes bis lassie and homeward take their way, leaving 
 the happy couple in blissful solitude. None were full, 
 but simply merry, vowing oft to meet again some other 
 day. 
 
 A NIGHT ON THE IRISH SEA. 
 
 If you have a desire to get well shaken up, or are suf- 
 fering from a serious attack of biliousness, or if you feel 
 out of sorts with the world generally — in other words 
 having a chronic disposition to be despondent, or if you 
 are materially affected with matters pertaining to the 
 heart, or if some foolish differences have occured in af- 
 fairs connected with affections, or if a life of extrava- 
 gance has placed you in a desperate mood, or if you 
 have resolved to shun society through blighted prospect- 
 ive happiness, or if you have quarreled with your better-
 
 72 To Europe and Back. 
 
 half from imaginary causes and left her to provide for 
 herself, or if your sweetheart has said some meaningless 
 words and you have demanded the return of the engage- 
 ment ring and left her in anger but with a choking 
 sensation in your throat, or if you have made up your 
 mind to turn sailor and run away for that purpose, or if 
 your parents have been rebellious and cutoff the liuan 
 eial supply and you get offended and rush ott to distant 
 climes, or if you feel that you have a great ileal more 
 brains than people credit you with and you feel that 
 you are not in the proper place to be appreciated in 
 justice to your merits, or if you have an idea that every- 
 body has some spite against you and wish you at Hong- 
 kong, or it you have the least idea that there is a rival 
 in the way and danger of your becoming morbid, or if 
 your girl's father kindly sees you safe at the garden gate 
 at the point of a No. 9 boot and you become indignant 
 at the liberties he is taking with you, and feel deter 
 mined that you will resent it, or if your Lady Love 
 gives you a hint that some body else has more money, 
 than you, and you stand on your dignified manhood 
 and leave her forever and defiantly. There is nothing 
 in the world that will affect such a speedy cure or bring 
 you more quickly to your senses thau spending a night on 
 the Irish sea on one of those miserable trading steamers 
 that ply between Liverpool, Glasgow and the different 
 points on the Irish coast. (Such rocking and tossing, 
 rolling and pitching, and what a promiscuous medley of 
 a cargo cattle and horses, sheep and pigs, dressed meat 
 in bokes( doubtless slaughtered a week ago judging from 
 the odor emitted) game in hampers (probably been 
 traveling by rail for several days) herrings in boxes (just 
 on the eve of being spoiled], heavy crates of vegetables, 
 add to the already fragrant atmosphere. All these are 
 well secured on deck, and the wild fretful chopping sea 
 keeps them well submerged with brine during the night, 
 for wave after wave is breaking over and rushing from 
 one side of the deck to the other. Last but not least is 
 the passenger stowed away under hatches, here each in- 
 dividual has much as he can attend to in looking after 
 himself, and many times finds it a good deal more than 
 he is able to perform, for indeed he is often led to be- 
 lieve that though there is no immediate danger of get- 
 ting drowned, yet there is certainly great risk of his
 
 7 j Europt and Back. 7g 
 
 being turned inside out ; it is no unusual thing to see a 
 dozens of people thrown oft their feet and huddled into 
 a heap together, the steamer lurching and creaking as 
 if she was a thing of life in the death throes, and by 
 the tiniw the night is half over, you come to the con 
 elusion that all of the ills and ailments you have ever 
 been subjected to on shore are but a foretaste of para- 
 dise compared with this, and you are perfectly willing 
 to endure those grievances which had before appeared 
 unbearable, if indeed there are any hopes of your survi- 
 ving until morning under this Irish si a treatment. But 
 one by one the hours are passing, and by and by more 
 dead than alive you find yourself in Dublin Bay, or Wa- 
 terford, or perchance Cork harbor, with pale cheeks and 
 haggard countenance, bones aching, the limbs tottering 
 and feeble, and the stomach in a very weak and unset- 
 tled condition, in fact you feel entirely cured of every- 
 thing else save this terrible Irish sea distemper. 
 
 THE OLD LETTER. 
 
 What wonderful and interesting associations are 
 clustered around the time bedimiued pages of an old 
 letter, what visions a perusal of it awakens; what 
 thoughts of retrospection fills the mind as we gaze on 
 the bold round lettering ot some business transaction of 
 years ago, perhaps the dim leaf and neatly written lines 
 is the beginning of a correspondence on which the 
 foundation of a prosperous business career has been laid ; 
 the successful merchant looks and smiles upon it with 
 the fullest sense ef pride and pleasure, he compares the 
 present with the past, his surroundings speak for the 
 present, while the seared page reminds him of the past, 
 and a lowly condition perhaps, and so it is filed away 
 as a precious relic of years gone by. Then there is the 
 friendly missive, the page sear and yellow, years have 
 drifted past since it was written, the little green mound 
 in the quiet chinch yard is all that marks the last rest- 
 ing place of the kind hearted writer, how we scrutinize 
 the faded slip of paper, turn it over and over, read and 
 re-read it! In some part we may detect a vein of hu- 
 mor which almost invokes a smile, and awakens in our 
 mind a vivid picture of the merry smiling face of the 
 author, then the next page may possess a pathos and 
 earnestness that we cannot help feeling how tru£ and
 
 74 To Kuropc ami Buik. 
 
 devoted the friendship had been, then the last side, 
 what a peculiar seriousness it inspires, there is even a 
 shivering feeling of sadness steals over the mind, for it 
 is the last reminiscence of an honest heart ; we turn it 
 over again, and again, then with a sigh fold and care- 
 fully lay it away, while the fulness of the heart breathes 
 forth in poetic ardor. 
 
 Faded page, oh precious treasure, 
 Full ol bopes and kindly favor, 
 The oftener read it, pleases better, 
 Those seared lines of a dear old letter. 
 
 Last, but not least, conies the page on which affect- 
 ions lines are written, every word breathes but the lan- 
 guage of the heart, how tenderly the thoughts are con- 
 veyed, then again what passionate appeals, what plead- 
 ings, what assurances of devotion, what misgivings, 
 hopes and fears, are traceable on this worn, musty slip 
 of paper. We read and ponder, and follow the peculiar, 
 yet familiar formation of each letter even into minute- 
 ness, for the fingers of a loved one had traced the deli- 
 cate lines which an affectionate heart had suggested ; time 
 has worn the lustre of newness, but the flimsy creased 
 paper speaks to the heart of what had been, and also of 
 what might have been. Years ago, its perusal might 
 have filled the soul with bitterness, we may have 
 thought that it carried blighting influence within the 
 well constructed sentences. These animosities are all 
 canceled now, time, the great reasoner, has done its 
 work, for we can now look upon all with the same font 
 of affection, as we fondle and caress the crumpled piece 
 of paper, and thus we look and read and think, then 
 think and read again, and so it gh'es pleasure and 
 sometimes pain, but which ever it may be it will cer- 
 tainly make us better and truer men and women, in a 
 leisure hour to look over and study the contents of a 
 dear old letter.

 
 UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA, LOS ANGELES 
 
 THE UNIVERSITY LIBRARY 
 
 This book is DUE on the last date stamped below 
 
 Ql JAN I? 
 
 1989
 
 UC SOUTHERN REGIONAL LIBRARY FACILITY 
 
 AA 000 389 277 5