University of California Berkeley A TRIP ACROSS THE PLAINS, ANDV LIFE IN CALIFORNIA: EMBRACING A DESCRIPTION OF THE OVERLAND ROUTED Its Natural Curiosities^ UVERS, LAKES, SPRINGS, MOUNTAINS, INDIAN TRIBES, fcc. &c. ; OF CALIFORNIA: Its Climate, Soil, Productions, Animals, &c., O/* Indian, Mexican and Calif orn inn Character : A GUIDE OF THE ROUTE .OH TflE MISSOURI RIVER TO THE PACIFIC OCE.IN BY CiEO. KELLER, rilYSlCIAN TO THE WAYNE COUNTY COMPANY- "CONTEXTS," see last pages of volume. [COPY-RIGHT SECURED.] WHITE'S PRESS MASKIT.LON, 1851. Names and Residence OF EACH MEMBER OF THE WAYNE COUNTY COMPANY. (TAKEN ON BOARD THE STEAMBOAT "CONSIGNEE.") Luther M. Dennisoo, "Daniel C. Loyd, do. Ohio. Frederick Kouk, do. William Duck, Dalton, O. uenry Duch, do. John Morrow, do. Cyrus Youcum, Plain t'p. Wa'm co. Ohio. Benj. Eason, do. Darid Soliday, do. Henry Soliday, do. * Alexander Eason.do. Joshua Eberhart, do. Eli Jones, do. Wm. Allenbaugh, do. John Kimmell, Canaan, do. Lewis Barritt, do. do. Ba'tzer Houck, do. do. Henry Mowry, E. Union, do. Nathaniel Ames, do. do. John Keffer, Wooster, do. do. David Bower, Chester do. do. G. R. M'InUre,Franklindo. do. B. Mutersbaugh, Plain do. do. II. Drabenstadt, Green do. do. SanVl. Hanson, WOoster do. do. Henry Ammerman, do. do. Jared Campbell, do. do. Joseph Jackson, do. do. *Lewis Gibson, do. do. Wesley P. Yordy, do. do. J. Mendenhall, Lakeport, la. f John Huffstodr, Wooster, O. *Thos. Smith, do. do. fCharles Miller, do. do. fMatthew M'Clure, do. do. (Jonathan M'Clure, do. do. JA.Thornton,Milton, W'yneco. f James Jackson, do. do. *Davitl Peffer, Wooster, Ohio. *John Mahaffie, do. do. John France, do. do. George Fleck, do. do. Jesse Weirick, Dalton, Wayne Alex. Clark, do. co. O. Samuel Thomas, do. do. Pranklin Thomas, do. do. *John Bell, do. do. Chs. N. Lamison, do. do. Isaac Bailey, do. do. James Elder, do. do. Henry Wertz, do. do. Franklin Myer, do. do. Mark Elder, do. do. {Joseph Sturgiss, do. do. Jacob Updegraff, do. do. [srael Human, do. do. Martin Hoover, do. do. Daniel Hoover, do. do. Joseph Hoover, do. do. Thomas Marshall, do. do. Edward Brings, do. do. Levi Scott, do. do. John Keller, do. do. Joseph Harper, do. do. Elijah M'Dowell, do, do. John Cully, do. do. Peter Cully, do. do.' NAMES AND RESIDENCE. Henry Oberlin, Dalton, Wayne Samuel M'Clelland,do. co. O. W. F. E. Clark, do. do. Hoyd Clark, do. do. Wm. H. Smith, do. &>. David Gearhart, do. do. Dr. Geo. Keller, do fc do. Benj. Wilcox, do., do-. Jas. M. Vaughn,Wooter t*p, O. John Pearson, Dalton, W'ne co. Thos. M'Clellamk Sugar cr. t. Thos. Latimer do.VV'ne co.O. fChristian Fuek, do. do. Andrew Murray, Dalton, Ohio. R. R. Galley, do, do. J. Gailey, do. do. S. Coe, Baughman tp. W, eo.O. Isaiah Bates, Dalton, do. do. Jos. Weirick, Wooster tp. fDr. D. Weaver, do. vil'ge. fQuimby Jones, do tp. -Joseph R. Jones, do. do. Peter Garlock, Edinburgh do. Samuel Motter, do. do. James Brown, do. do. Edwin E. Gorgas do. do. John Elder, do. do. John Reasor, do. do. James Atkinson, do. do. R. K. Deverny, do* do. f Jacob Stiver, Wayne tp. do. fJacob Paulis, do. do. fNicholas Paulis, do. do. f Benj. Lehman, do.. do. Geo. Sonedecker, do. do. A. Sonedecker, do. do. Philip Proutman, do. do. William Yost,, do. do. Jacob Oswald, do* do. Simon Ihrig, do. do. George Wolf, do. do. Jesse Beighley, Milton tp. do. *DavidKimberlin,Green do do. Mrs.D.Kimberlin, do. do. John Long, do. do. Hugh M'Davitt, do. do. James Hoy, S'rcreektp. do. Wm. M'Connell, Massillon, O; Samuel Marsh, do. David Gochenour, E. Union, do. E.H.Webb, Salem, Ohio. S. R. Middleton, do. do. David Karnes, Canaan tp.W'yne 'Albert Hosington, do. co. O. John Robinson, do. do. Martin Mathis, do. dow Joseph Karnes, do. do. Abram Smith, do. do. Philip Swartz, do. do> Edwin H. Miles, Guilford, Me- dina co. O. John Coble,. Lake tp. Ashland co. O. Elijah Runyan, do. do. Wm. Doolittle, do. do. John Stover, do. do. Simon Stewart, do. do. Mich'i Stewart, do. do. James Stewart, Washington tp,. H?olnies co. CK J. W.Everstine, Loudonville,Ov Cornelius Dill, do. do. Peter Lumbert, do do. J. Miller. do. do. Lemuel Miller, do. do.. Jacob Likes, do. do., Abram Likes, do. do* Jacob Emeric, do. do, Thos. Peterson, Morrow tp. Holmes co. O. Stutley Whitford, Wayne co.O* Sam'l. Gharlton, Ashland co. O. John Springer, do. do. Wm. Rice, Medina co. O. George Miller, Ashland co. Oi. Philip Wolf,. Wayne co. do. fDavid Rhodes, Stark co. do. fJohn Miller, do. do. (John Wagoner, Summit co. do JJos. Callback, do. GO. f Peter Marsh, do. do. f John Alban, Canal Fulton,O. fA. Wolfbarger, do. dp. NAMES AND RESIDENCE. v f Franklin Babb, Summit co. do. f Geo. Brown, do. do. *Wm,H.Paramor, Mansfield do \R. M. Porter, do. do. Geo. L. Jacobs, do. do. f Robert Cooper, do. do. Jacob Miller, do. do. f S. L. Combs, Kittariing, do. Samuel Dillon, do. do. fJ. Bradlev, F'orence, do. Daniel Dice, do. do. fJ. S. Lamb, Burgettstown,do. Jas. M'Quade, jr. do. do. fR. B. Mursor, Florence, do. Thos. Paramour, do. do. fS. Hamlin, Harmari's creek,do Thomas Barnd, do. do. fR. Bidclle, Burgettstown, do. fD. L. Harris, Summit co, O. fR. Kennedy, do. do. fP. W. Reader, Wayne co* do. f A. Wilson, do. do. fSamuel Stover, Surn'it co. do. fT. F. Fowle, Armstrong co.do fAdam Ruff, Fulton, do. f Jacob Milliron, do. do. fJacob Weysogle, do. do. fWm. Guthrie, do. do. fThomas Thorpe, do. do. fS.B. Fowle, do. do. JFrank Lauderdale, Holmes, do. fH. Miller, do. do. Geo. Lauderdale, do. eo. do. fC. F. Fowle, do. do. Thos. Gorsuch, Wayne eo. do. fB. Rodgers, do. do. L. Whitside, do. do. JfThos. Farrow, Pittsbur^h.do. fGeo. Rudy, Greenville, do. f-John Gumbert, do. do. fS. Rudy, do. do. \Wm. Henry, do. do. fSam'l. Clendenney, do. do. [Henry Gumbert, do. do. John Leish, Haysville, Ashland fGeo. Gumbert, do. do. eo. O. fB. Rook, do. do. A. Shroder, New Lisbon, O. tSaml. Fleming, do. do. Charles Nininger, do. |Wm. Smith, do. do. *Wm. M'Curdy, Canton, do. tRobert Gregg, do. do. *L. Barral, do. do. fRobert Orton, do. do. J. Dunbar, do. do. fHector Orton> do. do. Geo. Rhedben, do. do. fFrank Robinson, do. do. Jeremiah Gilford, do. do. fWm. Griffith, do. do. Geo. J. Bettinger, do. do. fJosiah Boucher, Ligonier, do. Wm. Lessig, Daftou, We e. do. flsaac F. Boucher, do. do. D. Fletcher, do. do. fDavid Boucher, do. do. *M. Barclay, do. do. tJohn George, do. do. J. Fletcher, do. do. Geo. Aurentz, Blairsvilie, do. *S. D. Kauffman, Canton, O. Peter Uurentz, do. do. E. M. Meffert, do. do. Sam'l.C.Moorhead,do. do. *Henry Kauffman, do. do. Joseph Aurentz, Pitteburg, do. *George Stuck, do. do. fMie*J. Lipe, Somerset co. do. NMD M'Millen, Mansfield, O. fPeter Lipe, do. do. John Dennison, do. do. fS. Naugle, Laughlintown,do. Wm. R. Hendricks, do. do. fJesse GnfRith, Somerset co.do S'l. Allenbaugh, Plain tp. W'ne fDavid Griffiith, do. do. eo. O. fChristian Staun 1 ; do. do. iJ. P.^Murphy, Feeeport, Arm- fGeo. Couster, Stoystown, do. etrong co. Pa. fJon. Smith, do. do. NAMES AND RESIDENCE. Holmes co. O. M. Troyer, do. do. do. do. ftamuel Shire, George Lee, Reuben Spang] er, John Kinnard,. Wooster, do. Slemon Lisle, Holmes co. O. P. C. Chesrown, do. do. J. Marvin, do. do. do. do,. Isaac Moon, do. do, ll.F. Cahili, Findiay, do- John M'Cleliand, Dalfon, Ohio,, joined the company at St. Jo- seph. * Dead. f Went in another Company from St. Joseph, t Left sick, at St. Laramie, from thence returned to A TRIP ACROSS THE PLAINS;, And Life in California, &c CHAPTER I; "Keturned Californiaii" "making a start for the a." ISig Blue. H.iitle Blue, and 1'lattu Valley. DURING the early part of the year 1850, Mr. M. L. Den- nison, a "returned Californian," visited our place, (Dai- ton, Wayne county, Ohio,) and gave such a glowing des- cription of the "El Dorado, 7 " that considerable numbers from this and adjoining counties, began at once to make preparations, in order to reach the "Diggins" by the A4 O- verland Route." As Mr. Dennison was about returning to California, we concluded to place ourselves under his guidance, supposing of course, that he was well acquainted with the route, and necessary outfit. Getting together our wagons, harness, clothing, &c., we took passage on board the Steamer * 'Consignee, " bound far St Joseph, Mo., designing to leave (he frontier at that point. We arrived at this place March 31st, Though raining violently, we at once began getting our wagons and buggies ashore,* and selecting a camping place. We spent the ensuing week in buying stock, pro- visions, cooking utensils, and getting all things ready, be- fore starting out, on a long, tedious, and, to a certain ex- tent, dangerous journey. Horses were worth from fifty to one hundred dollars, and mules from seventy-five to one hundred and fifty. The outfit among the messes, generally, was four mules or horses, and one wagon, to every four men. By the ad- vice of our guide we took but fifty pounds of flour, and for- 8 A TRIP ACROSS THE PLAINS, ty of hard bread, to each man; an amount we found whol- ly insufficient, as partial starvation, during the latter parl of tho route, satisfactorily demonstrated. Our other arti- cles of provision were in about the same proportion, On the 7th, 8th and th of April, the different messes crossed the Missouri river, and encamped near the bluff, six miles from St. Joseph's. We found plenty of wood and good water at this point A variety of the paroquet abounds in this part of the Indian territory. Mr. Mendenhall ascended a tree at this place, in pursuit of a squirrel, and, in endeavoring to capture it, inflicted a wonrid near his knee with a hatchet, which pre- vented him from travelling, on foot," for a distance of one thousand miles. On the evening of the 9*h Mr. R. F. Cahill, of Findlay, Ohio, arrived at OUT camp, and engaged Messrs. Hoovers, of Dalton, to "take him through" to the "diggins." Next morning, about 7 o'clock, we broke up our camp, and after driving a few minutes, found ourselves on the al- most boundless prairie. The scenery on these vast natu- ral fields, creates, for a short time, an exhilirating effect oa the mind of the traveller ; but the sameness of the scene- soon becomes monotonous. This evening we encamped about two miles west of the "Indian Agency." As grass had not yet begun growing en the prairie, we were compelled to carry food for the mules and horses* Several of our messes bought corn at this place, paying one dollar per bushel. We travelled this day about 27 miles. As many of the mules had never been harnessed before, of course some trouble might be expected in getting them to work well, but I believe we had no. *bawks," or runaways, during the day. On Sunday afternoon (April 14th) we crossed the Big Blue, distant from St. Joseph about 125 miles, This stream is about 120 feet wide, and at this time about three feet deep. We forded it without any difficulty. Later in the season, during the heavy rains, this stream, is swollen ve- ry much, and may detain a company several days, either in waiting for it "to fall," or in ferrying it. The weath- er, during the afternoon, was warm and pleasant ; but the days preceding it, had been unusually cold, snowing fie- AND LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 9 quently, with a cold wind from the north. In this distance we had no wood, except in the vicinity of streams. Next evening about sunset, we crossed Little Blue, and travelled near it the two successive days;, the weather, during ihis time, cold and rainy. Friday evening (19th) we struck the valley of Platte, or Nebraska river, and encamped near some pools of stagnant water, about three miles from the river. Not having any fuel here but prairie grass, and it wet by the rains, we con- cluded to dispense with the ceremony of getting supper,, and therefore went to bed minus this tneak CHAPTER IL Fort Kearney- "Doby House*," Buffalo, Deer, fcc., Fbr5 f South Platte Encampment of .Sioux Fine Arl S Next morning about sunrise* we started forward, intend- ing to breakfast at Fart Kearney, distant about ten miles*. Reaching this place about ten o'clock, we concluded to stop for an hour or two, during wbich time some breakfast wa& "got up," and flour purchased to- feed the stock, many of them being nearly worn out by hard driving, and an insuf- ficient amount of food. Spring being unusually late, we^ as yet, found no grass, and it became necessary to econo- mize the grain we had with us as much as possible.. This military establishment is about 300 miles from St. Joseph, and about two* miles from Piatte liver. h is de- signed to afford supplies to emigrants, and protect them from attacks af the different Indian tribes. This fort i;- situated in the Pawnee country. During the summer of 194&, they were in the habit of visiting emigrants, while passing through their country. As these were suffering from cholera, the disease was communicated to them, des- troying great numbers. This so frightened them, that they kept at a respectful distance during the next season. Fort Kearney is built, principally, of "adobes," (u-n- burnt brick,) usually called "doby" houses, for short. The great scarcity of timber, renders an expedient of this kind necessary. About two o'clock, P. M., we left the fort, and travelling about eight miles, encamped near a pool of stagnant water* about two and a half miles from the river*. 10 A TRIP ACROSS THE PLAINS, We used ihe dried stalks of the Lobelia Inflata, an fuel at this place. There is scarcely any timber, growing on or near the banks of the Platte, except a few cotton and willow trees, and very often none even of these. The breadih of the river valley, varies from three to six or 8 miles. From this point to the ford of the South Fork of Platte, a distance of 160 miles, we travelled up the river valley, suffering considerably from cold and wet weather, having no fuel but dry prairie grass, and the **Bois de Va- che," or Buffalo chips, (the excrement of the Buffalo, dri- ed by years of exposure to the sunj These chips make a very good fire, when you have nothing better. While travelling over this part of the route, we passed hundred* of herds of this animal. The flesh of the calves and cows is very good, but that of the elderly males is rather tough There are also plenty of Antelopes, Bears, Wolves, Hares, Prairie Dogs, (a small animal resembling the Squirrel,) Wild Geese & Ducks, Snipes and Prairie Chickens. Sev- eral species of good Pushes are frequently found in the streams. The rattle-snake, prairie dog and burrowing owl, are frequently found living together, amicably, in the same burrow. Natural history does not, probably, afford an ex- ample of animals so dissimilar in form and habits, occupy- ing the same berth. We reached the ford of South Platte on the 26th of A- pril, the weather during the whole day very cold and snow- ing violently. The river at this point is about one half mile in width, but very shallow, the greatest depth not be- ing more than two feet. Later in the season, during the June rains, it is much deeper. The bed of this stream is very sandy, so much so, that if a wagon "sticks" fora few minutes, it becomes a difficult matter to get it out from the accumulations of sand. On arriving at the opposite shore, a very inhospitable scene presented itself large flakes of snow flying across the barren- plain and bluffs, and not a vestige of any thing resembling fuel, except the Buffalo chips, which were i>o wetted by the melting snow as not to be in very good burn- ing ORDER. A gallon or two of *'cognac," when applied internally, had the effect of lulling the sensibilities of a number of the company, and bringing on a state of happy AND LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 11 Jorgetfvlness. But those who drank none felt much better next morning. This example would go far, towards establishing the po- sition, that water is calculated to answer in all kinds of weather. We had been compelled to leave a number of mules and horses before this time, on account of scarcity of grass and grain, and several more were added to the number, by the fatigue and exposure endured in crossing this stream. Next day we travelled to Cash Hollow, on the North Fork of Platte, distant 14 miles. There are several long, steep hills to descend in tins distance. Before reaching the Hollow we met a train of wagons, belonging to the A- merican Fur Company, loaded with furs and skins. On arriving at this camping place, we found plenty of wood and wBter; the weather was also warm and pleasant. Between the States and this point, the road is generally very good, equal to any road of the same length in the * 4 States." Not supposing we would be troubled by the Indians, a number of guns were broken and thrown away at this place, our object being to lighten the loads as much as pos- sible. After leaving the Hollow we struck the bank of North Platte, a stream entirely different from the South Fork, and the main Platte, after the junction of the two forks. The latter are wide and shallow, while the former is narrow and of considerable depth. About ten miles tra- vel brought us to an encampment of Sioux Indians. In these ten miles we had considerable heavy sand road. These Indians received us very kindly, and exhibited their certificates of "moral character," and friendship tow- ards emigrants. We, in turn, gave them some email pre- sents. This tribe have at present about fifteen hundred lodges, each one large enough to contain five persons with their baggage. These lodges are got up in the following manner. About eight poles, about fifteen or twenty feet long, are arranged in the form of a cone; one extremity of the poles being placed around the circumference of the cir- cle, while the other extremity forms the apex of the cone. A number of Buffalo robes dressed on both sides are sewed together, and fitted accurately to this frame work. An o- pening is left at the top to give exit to the smoke. This is 12 A TRIP ACROSS THE PLAINS, furnished with a valve, which may be made to cover tho chimney during rain or snow. Internally the following ar- rangement is observed : the fire is placed in the centre, and ths baggage around the circumference of the circle, while the family occupy the intermediate space. These Indians, as well as the tribes generally east of the Rocky mountains, are considerably skilled in i\\Q fine arts, making very beautiful moccasins and other articles of wearing apparel. The Buffalo robe is tanned very nice- ly, being white, and almost as soft as buff cassimere. Their arms are spears and bows and arrows. A few have rifles. The Sioux and Pawnees are almost constantly at war with each other. We noticed at this encampment, a French gentleman, who informed us that he had been with the tribe thirty-two years. Novelists frequently tell us of beautiful Indian maidens, but among the different tribes on the northern route to Ca- lifornia, a pretty squaw is arara avis-^sQ rare, indeed, that 1 have never seen a single specimen. They are "heavy set," and not tall enough, with broad faces and prominent cheek bones. They also, as a gene- ral thing, use too much paint, which differs too much from carmine to aid any in improving their complexion. They are, generally, very faithful wives, whether their'husbands be Indians or whites. Nearly all the hunters and trappers in the Indian country, have one or two wives, selected from the nearest tribe. The squaws do all the "hard work," while their "lords" are busied in taking care of themselves, doing a little hunting, fishing, or fighting, when it suits their convenience. CHAPTER III, Indian mode of travelling Court House or Church Chini* racy Hock Scott's ISlufi* -.Rlaeksmith Shop and Horse Creek. After leaving these Indians, we traveled about nino miles and encamped. Heavy sand road. During the next day wo met considerable numbers of Sioux travelling to- ward sorae other encampment. Each family has one or more of a very indifferent kind of pony, which from ill usage do not make a \Qi-yflashy appearance. AND LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 13 When about to travel, the husband takes his a mounts his pony, and goes ahead, leaving his squaw to pack up the baggage and bring up the rear. This is ef- fected in the following manner. The lodge poles, ave lash- ed to the saddle of a pony by one end, while the other drags on the ground. Pieces are placed across these ends of the polos, and upon them the baggage is placed. Very often two or three papooses are piled up on the top of the load. If it be the only pony, it is, when all things are ready, -mounted by the squaw and the cavalcade sets forward.^ If there be a spare pony, she rides it and leads the one carrying the baggage, A variety of large dogs kept by these tribes, are also compelled to assist in these migrations. Smaller poles are attached to them, and on these, is placed, vhat is considered by the squaws, a just proportion of the baggage. This is a duty, which the dogs dislike very much, but the final arguments of their mistresses kicks and cuffs induce them to submit, after they get fairly star- ted, those arguments with an occasional tzoo, tzoo, wahkash- ne ceit cha (get on, get on, you devilish beasts) keep them moving. If they be not watched, two or three of them manage to get up a fight, is soon converted into a general row, during which they get their loads off, which is quite an annoyance to the squaws, who must stop and repack them, of course stopping the fight, first. These dogs are also highly valued aa an article of food. Dog is consider- ed far ahead of all meats, both by Indians and trappers. Panthers is thought to be next best, while the meats we 'esteem most highly, are pretty far down in the list. About forty-five miles further travelling, our heavy ^and road brought us to the ^Church" or Court House" Rock. This natural curiosity is several miles to the left of the road. It is composed of a whitish, soft rock, and. as its name imports, resembles very much, a large church or court house. Chimney Rock, seen distinctly from the "church," though twelve miles off, is also a very striking example of some of Nature's freaks The lower part oV this rock is shaped like a cone. The top is surmounted by a 'chimney" seventy-five feet high, of almost equal di- ameter, through its entire length. Height of the whole rock, two hundred and fifty feet. Bl 14 A TRIP ACROSS THE PLAINS, This, with all the other peculiar rocks and bluffs of this part of the country, is composed of rock, similar to that of the "court house or church. 7 ' It is nearly as soft as magnesian lime stone; though not so white. Five miles farther there are a number of ir- regular elevations, called Scott's Bluffs. They are about five hundred feet high. When the atmosphere is clear the Rocky mountains may be seen from the summit of these bluffs. When I made ihe ascent the air was too hazv to gat a view of these distant mountains. The main chain is about three hundred miles from the "Bluffs." The road leaves the immediate valley of Platte river, and passes between two of these bluffs. From this to the "Blacksmith Shop," a distance of twenty miles, there is no water or wood, and very little grass. Heavy sand road part of this distance. At the "Shop" we found plenty of red cedar timber and g.->od water. Our corn was now nearly exhausted, and being not yet replaced by grass, we were compelled to leave stock, almost daily. Thursday may 2nd. left the "shop, "and after travelling 12 miles crossed Horse creek, about thirty feel wide and two feel deep. In the afternoon travelled thirteen miles, and encamped on the same stream, Weather cold and windy. Next day about 10 o'clock A. M. arrived at Roubidous'. There is a blacksmith shop and stock market here. Exorbitant prices were demanded for mules or'horses. As an illustration, Mr. D. Hoover, of Dalton, gave a pretty good horse and seventy- five dollars, for a rather indifferent mule. After leaving this place we travel- ed a few hours and encamped within four miles of Ft Lar- imie. We had here plenty of good wood and water, and a little grass. CHAPTER IV. Fort Lisirimic.- Warm Springs &a Boiit River IWLagnesiaii 1 4 iiestotie An early start Fishing in I>ecr creek Ferry o f North Platte Mineral I a!t< s. Next morning (Saturday May 4th} we arrived at the fort. Finding we were going to be short of provisions, before getting through, we concluded to supply ourselves AND LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 15 here, with a sufficient amount, but being informed by the commanding officer, that this would be unnecessary, as we could get supplies at Ft. Hall, we concluded to defer the matter until arriving there. The reader will be fully apprized of the result of this determination, before we get through. Some messes got flour and hard bread, but not enough to "last through." Mr. Joseph Sturgis of Dalton, had been suffering for , days, from an attack ofacute rheumatism, and as his case was not likely to be much improved, by cold weather, and the jostling of the wagon passing over the cobble-stones in the road, I advised him to remain here, until he should get well. This advice he accepted, and arrangements were made before we left for his reception at the Fort. In a few weeks he returned to the States. Several sol- diers 'were suffering from scurvy, brought on by the want of fresh vegetables. They were waiting for the wild onion to grow, the use of which, would soon effect a cure. After leaving this fort we travelled twelve miles and en* camped at the Warm Springs. The temperature of these springs is 66 Fahr. There are two roads leading from the springs, the left hand going by "Hebrew Springs/' the right nearer the river (North Flatted We took the latter in order to avoid crossingthe "Black Hills," which in ma- ny places are very steep and the road full of cobble-stones. Next day we travelled about twenty-five miles, over a very hilly, and tortuous road, and encamped on a creek about twenty feet wide, and two feet deep. Good wood and wa- ter, and some grass here. Next day (Monday may 6th) we reached the La Bonto river, distance thirty-five miles. In the first fifteen miles we struck Platte River twice, in the remaining we had neither wood nor water. It snowed the greater part of this day, and the wind from the snow- capped mountains in the vicinity, was rather fresh to be comfortable. The La Bonte is thirty feet wide and one and a half feet deep, with a rapid current. This stream is so called, from a hunter and trapper of th^sama namo, whose companions were killed, and his wife Yute-chil-co-the (the reed that bends), carried away captive by the Arapahoes. This happened at the forks of the stream, while La Bonte was absent, on a trapping tour. His companions wore also 16 A TRIP ACROSS THE PLAINS, trapping, and coming to the forks first were to await hi arrival. He never recovered the "bending reecL" The next morning was very cold, the thermometer at 5 O T C. A.. M. standing at 28 deg. Fahr. Five miles from the La Bonte we crossed a branch of the same stream. In the vi- cinity of this branch there aye large masses of magnesias limestone, and a peculiar earth of a deep red color. Ir> the same locality, there *s a natural, or artificial pyramid built up of'* boulders" about seventy-five feet i-a height. This pile of rocks looks very much, as if man had beeras the author; but if not Dame Nature must have had "a time of it" in getting then* together. Travelling sixteen miles farther we encamped on the Ala PreLe river. This stream is about as large as the La Bonte. This is a very good camping place. We left encampment next morning about 2 o'clock, in order to reach the ''Lower ford and ferry of north Platte," distant eighteen miles, before another company immediately behiad ws. We learned afterwards that this early start was unnecessary, as they crossed anoth- er ford, twenty-seven miles "higher up."- Eight miles from* encampment we crossed the Fourche Bois river. Nine miles farther crossed Deer Creek and encamped, as the- ferry boat about being built, by a gentleman from Ft Lar- imie, was not quite completed. Some of the company, as- sisted in finishing it, in order that we might get over nexfc day. Deer creek is about thirty feet wide and two feet deep, with, a rapid current. There are some very good fish in? this stream; but "one in hand is worth two in the water 7 7 a& we found that they were not easily caught. Samuel Han- son, Joseph Jackson and some others, converted a wagon cover into a fish net; but it was "no go;" the result of the fishing being a cold bath. There is a coral mine a short distance from the mouth of the creek.. Next morning Wm. Palmer of Mansfield, O; had- an- at- tack of cholera morbus, but was able to resume his share of camp work in the afternoon. About noon we broke up our camp, and moved to the ferry about one mile dis-- tant, and succeeded in getting every thing over safely before night. The North. Platte at this place is about one hundred andi AND LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 17 twenty yards wide, and at this timo four and a half feet deep. We encamped afier crossing, having plenty of wood and some glass. There are some very beautiful volcanic rocks in this vicinity. This ferry is one hundred and thirteen miles west of Ft Larimie. Friday morning, may 10th left this encampment and after travelling twenty-two miles, generally near the river, encamped five miles below Upper Platte Ferry and Ford.' During the afternoon a brown bear was killed by some of the company, not far from the bank of the river. Next morning after travelling five miles we struck the Platte for the last lime. The mineral lake and springs are seven miles farther, the waters of which are so highly impregnated with alka- line matter, as to be entirely unfit for use. After travel- ling about eighteen miles farther, we found a small stream of good water. There are a number of springs and creeks in this distance, but all highly alkaline. The mules and horses that were running loose, required considerable watching in order to prevent them injuring themselves by drinking this water. This part of the country is of volca- nic origin. CHAPTER V. Same subject continued. Fording; river* Ice springs Rate and hull form. Next morning May 12th. the thermometer at 4 1-2 o'clock A. M. stood at 26deg. Fahr. After travelling two and three fourth miles, we came to Willow Springs. This is a good camping place, there being plenty of wil- lows and good water. Prospect hill is one mile farther. The Sweet VVater mountains, are distinctly seen from the summit of this hill. Game is very abundant in this part of the country. The Alkaline Lakes are about fourteen miles from "Prospect Hill." The surface of the earth here, is cov- ered with almost pure carbonate of soda, varying from two to ten inches in thickness. This salt either for baking or any other use, is almost equal-to the commercial article. Our fuel here, and for hundreds of miles farther, was the 18 A TRIP ACROSS THE PLAINS, wild sage (artimissia.) This is an aromatic shrub differ- ing considerably from the common garden sage. The stalks are found from one fourth of an inch, to three or four inches in diameter. It does not generally grow more than? three or four feet high. After growing a few years, the stalks apparently break off at the surface of the earth, and seem entirely dead, while the tops are in full vigor. In this condition it makes very good fuel. A bird about as large as a chicken is found among the^ "Sage," and is called the Sage hen. Independence Rock is five miles from the Alkaline Lakes. This rock stands "solitary and alone" in the val- ley of Sweet Water River r entirely separated from the- neighboring mountains. It is about five hundred feet long, two hundred broad, and about two hundred and fiity in height. It is composed of granite. We left our names in tar upon this rock, as thousands had clone before us. We encamped on Sweet Water about half a mile above the rock. After leaving this encampment we forded the river its- breadth at this place about sixty feet, and depth three ; and five miles farther passed the ''Devil's Gate. 7 ' This is a fissure in the rocks through which the Sweet Water forces its way. At the lower entrance the . and the perspiration running in streams off the bodies of the actors, the whole thing resembles more the midnight orgies of demons, than any thing human. When an individual dies, a hole is dug at the mouth of his hut, the body put in and covered, after which, his prep erty is laid on the grave and burned. The mourners keep up a dismal howling for severs days. This is the general custom, though some trib'.-s burn the body and scatter the ashes to the winds. They are passionately fond of gambling, and never quit the game, until one of the parties is dead broke. The game is played in the following manner. Two having seated themselves on the ground opposite each other, the one takes a small pebble, and passing ft from one hand to the other requires tho other, to tell in? which hand it is. If he fails to tell, one is counted on the game, if other- wise the other takes the pebble. Seven constitutes tho game. They are fond of intoxicating drinks, are great cowards, and generally dishonest. Many have been kept at the catholic missions and have in this way acquired some knowledge of the Spanish language. The Mexicans are indolent and superstitious. They havo two or three phrases which are almost constantly in uso. A TRIP ACROSS THE PLAINS, If asked to do any thing, they no quiere (don't care or don't Vant to.) To almost every q'lestion^even the most simple, you get the answer quiere sabe (who .knows) or I don't know. The following auecdotu will illustrate their ignorance or carelessness. A gentleman seing a girl carrying a child,. and wishing to enter into conversation asked her the ques- tion : Qiuerc es 1e padre do esta^ senoritta (who is tjp. father of tins, senoritta, pointing to the child) quiere senor (who knows, sir.) They are too indolent to raise much gnun or vegitubles, ig content to \\\ , onio.), ^uvjic and pepper, reiur. iring thoii !h lln ; tying th< over cock and bull fighting cons y, A Fandango comes off i n t h e c ns up a Mcxican.% idea of life. For rt be beatdi any vv'r We will - Cation and com me r- cial in. f some *>! ihe principal cities and towns. SanFr. f ' * y of the same name a few miles J rom its m many i town i:^ the stale, contains a has the best harboi LI, and is the principal port on that part oi'the coast. Sacra me; ,y on tti TV-) above San franc in the sti> is navfgabl i the g>" year. In importance it a In s Surv Francisco. s a small men to Rive month of r River. Marysviilo Rivers, is growing rrr la a very ?g condition. Small si re a ?n it an*; 'luring the greater f the yoar. above the latter place. Nevada city is situated on Deer creek forty miles above- Marysville. AND LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. Hangtown b &o$* tk) Amertean River, alo^ fiy miles above SacramomG city. Three >efc were hung here in one day for stealing, and from ibis the pla^a derives its n*iuc. Stockton and Booicia a?e sUuated on the buy of Sen Francisco. They are places of considerable importance. There arc a few towns in the southern mines but wo aw unacquainted with thsir situation, and importance. GUIDE TO CALIFORNIA, BY THE TO THE EMIGRANT. YOU are about to undertake a long* tedious, and somewhat dangerous journey ; and it is highly necessary that you should be acquainted wUh the mi&utios of the route, and the outfit re- quired, ir. order to take you safely and expeditiotialy to the land of year destination. Without these it would be an adventure uttesv&d with insuperable difficulties. Kndeavor to make an early start do not wait for grass, but carry along grain sufficient to supply your stock until "grass comes." Start from the Missouri river as early as the first of April, assd you will get through soon enough, be detained less by fctreasfts, ftind have better grass in the latter part of the route. in reference tc the starting point, St. Joseph is probably an good ftoeny you may select. You can procure nearly every ar- ticle B^cesaary for the outfit; the road is good, and ihe distance to the Plaits river less, than from Weston, Kansas or Indepen- dence. A mesa of 6 persons should provide themselves with 3 wagons, nnd H srmlea or horses.- Mules not less than 6 or 8 yeara old are preferable. Two of said wagons should be light 1 horae o.'tes. In these Joad your provisions, clothing, (just enough to tuke you through) and other necessary baggage. The other may be a common two horse wagon on which load forty or fif- ty bushel* of corn, cats or barley. If you can, put R few extra b'jabele on your light wagons. Ses that these are welhmade ; have the wheels high, and the beds water tight. Thus equipped you need not wait for grass. Be sareful that >ou do not start with any unnecessary baggage ; if you do you vil! throw it overboard before you get halflvay through. . Tbe road at present is strewed with nearly every thing from * - Mio io a child's cradle, that h*8 thus beeu disposed of. 49 GUIDE TO CALIFORNIA, The following amount of provisions will be sofficient for a mess of six persons: Flour, 500 Ibe. Pepper, lib. Hard Bread, 50 do. Sugar, 100 do. Bacon, 500 do. Molasses, 10 gals. Corn Meal, 60 do. Dried Fruit, 2 b. Coffee, 30 dt>. Carbonate Soda, Tea, 5 do. (for baking,) 2 Ibs. Chocolate, 10 do. Pickles, 1 email keg, Rice, 10 dTo. You want a complete camp kettle, coffee pot, frying pan, fin plates and cups, knives, forks and spoons. The frying pan will do to bake flap }ou travel near the Little Blue.) South Platte ford, 175 (Road level buffalo chips for fuel.) BY THE OVERLAND ROUTE. 40 Ash Hollow (good encaroprnont.) 14 mile*. 'Court Howe Rock, 68 (Heavy sand road in many places.) Chimney Rock, .f* 12 Seott'aHBlufffe, t . 5 Black Smith Shop," 22 (Water scarce in this distance,) Horse Creek, *. . 12 Camping place, .-. 13 "Roubidous," .... .... 10 Camping place, .... 12 Ft. Lorimie and Larimie River, 4 666 Long Hill to descend, 7 (4 miles from the fort take the left hand road,) <4 We rm Springs/' 5 Good Camping place, 17 (Take the nght hand road from the springs.) Creek (good camp,) 8 (Kasiiy forded.) Platte" River, 8 Do. n La Bonte River (20 ft. wide 2 ft. deep,) 20 fRoad hiiiy and scarcely any water.) Branch of La Bonte, 6 A La Prela River (good camp,) 15 Fcurche Boia (40 ft. wide 2J ft. deep f ) 8 P)&tte River, 4 Deer Creek (good camp,) 5 North Platte Ferry, 1 ?7t> Camping place. 12 (Some heavy rood.) Upper Ferry of North Piatte, 16 Small Stream, 25 (In (his distance you pass a number of lakes nnd springs ; but the fc'ater is so charged with alkaline matter as to be unfit for use.) Willow Springs, 2J Prospect Hill, 1 Small Creek, 8| Alkaline Lakes, 6^ Sweet Water Rrver, - * 4| Independence Rock, * 3jJ Sweet Water Ford, 1 Devil's Gate, * Creek, . Do*. *, El 50 GUIDE TO CALIFORNIA, Miry Do- 6 milef, Sweet Water River, ... 4 (Take right hand road.) Sweet Water, 3 Sage Creek, . % 3 Good Camp, . . . . 3 Creek, " 2 Road leaves the River, . a Strikes it egain (ford 2 J ft. deep,) 6 Ford and reford, . . . j j Ford (some heavy road,) 8 Ice springs, 6 J Alkaline Swamps, Ford, 10 Branch of Sweet water, g Summit of hi!!, . ... ]|> Ford, 2 Reford, $ Creek and spring (good camp,) 3 HUly road for, ........ 3 Creek, 3 2 Small creeks in next, 2 Strawberry creek, .... 2 Quaking Aspen creek, I Branch of Sweet Water, 2i (May 16th. i860 10 feet snow.) Willow Creek, 2| Sweet Water ford 43 South Pass, jO 949 Pacific Springs, 3 Do. Creek, 1 Dry Sandy (no water in this distance.) 10 Junction of Oregon and Salt Lake roads, fRight hand road to Ft. Hall.) t> Little Sandy, 6 Big Sandy, .... 5 May 19, 1850 -40ft. wide L> ft. deep.) Green River, .... 35 (No water in this distance*) Ford ihe river at the islands. Strike the upper point of first one, then lower poinf of second one, then the shore. Bold stream, generally dangerous to cross. Muddy creek, 2) Branch of Green River, 4 (Road hilly and crooked.) BY THE OVERLAND ROUTE. 51 Ford of this branch, 6 miles, ('May 21st, 185060 feet wide 3J deep- current rapid./ "Bluffs" (good camp,; 12 Ham's Fork of Green River, 17 (Rosd hilly water plenty.; (May 22nd, GO feet wide 8 ft. deep- current rapid.; Grove of Timber, ..* 12 Small stream, . . . ... 4 Bear River valley, .... * 4 (Small stream here to the right of the road.; Thomas' Fork of Dear (ford,; 12 (If you cannot cross at the ordinary ford, go half a mile higher up.; Branch (road good water plenty,; 17 (May 27ih, 40feel wide 7 ft. deep.; Foot of Bluffs, I Bear River, 5 Creek 2 ft. deep (road good,; 6 Camp (water plenty, road good; 15 Beer or Soda Springs, 15 Steamboat Springs, .... fa Road leaves the River, 4> 1151 (Take the right hand road to Ft. Mall. The- left is "Hedgpeth's Cut-off" strikes the other road about 70 miles below Ft. Hall.) Small Stream and Volcanic Spring, 4 (Good Camping place.; Creek (Road good,; Miry Stream, Summit of Ridge, 5 Ft. Hall (marshy or sandy road,) 25 1200 Trading Station of Hudson's Bay Co. 5 Creek 60 ft. wide, .... 3 Ford of Port Neuf (100 yds. wide 4 ft. deep,) .... 4 Panack River (somewhat miry,; 7 Spring to the right of the road, 6 American Fall on Lewis River, 4 Good camping place (2 or 3 ravines,; 10 Small Rocky Stream, 1 Fall River ford (30 ft. wide 2 ft. deep,) 6J Raft River ford (good camp,) 7| Reford, .... I (Oregon road between these fords,) 52 GUIDE TO CAL1FORNFA, Third Ford of Raft River (marshy near the river J 14 miles, Goose creek, 9 Ford of Do. 5 (iood camp, . ... 9 Do. (mountainous,) ...... 14* (Tuss the "Steeple Rocks*' in thi? distance. The trail from Salt Lake cify intersects the road about 1 mile before reaching the last mentioned camp.) Creek (several Email streams in this distance,) 1G Follow this creek (Road goodj 21 Small stream, 12 Follow ir, 8 Cross the bluffs and reach a creek 12 Mot Springs, 7 Marshy Road for, 1 } Camp, ... 5 Summit of a ridge, .- 2 Tolerably good camping place (soU alkaline,) 18 Two miry stream?, 5 Humboldt or Mary's River ford; 9 14-J41 , Rfiry branch. ..- *- 3 Branch, | Branch 100 ft. wide 3 ft. deep, 20 {Some good grass in this distance.^ Right hand road leaves the River, 28 SmaH creek, ...... ....... 10 Crossing of Small stream, 3 Spring of good water, I'l Road strikes the river (grass poor,) 15 Branch, 13 Road strikes the river (grass poor,) W Alkaline Stream (grass poor,) 'X Hand strikes the river, 10 Leaver if, ... 2 Again touches the river, * Miry branch 4 good road,) 18 (Yoi- will find a belter ford. one mile above the ordinary one.) Road strikes the rsver, 2' Road leaves the river, ..... .... 25 (Some good grass in this distance. J Again touches the river (no wood water er grass,) T4 Junction of the Lawson and Truckic route?, *> Camping place (by the latter route,) 35 BY THE OVERLAND ROUTE. 53 Slougliof Humboldt River, 15 miles, "Sink'* of do. '20 (The best water is in a slonpli that passes through a bond and nnrrow b'ull'J From the Sink lo Hot Spring* (no grass or water.; 20 Truckle River (no grat-s or water f ) 25 Ford (i;ood camp,) .... . ... 5 Bend in the river (good camp,) 15 Travel up the riwr, .... ... 8 Cross a hill to the river, 12 Pass creek Kanyon (good camps every few mile?,) 42 Through the Kanyon, .... .... 5 Red Luke (good camp near,) 1 1 Lake Valley (good camp,) f Over the ridge to Rock Valley (good camp,) lo Sick Springs, .... .... 13 Camp Creek (poor camp,) 10 Pleasant valley. Gold mines, 2H Sutlers, 5f; 1(1,57 (Lawson Route. Tho road on this route is better, grass and water better, and not much farther than the other.) From llumboldt to "Rabbit VVrlls" 30 (No water, but good grass in many places-.) Hot Springs (no wafer or grass,) 20 Mud Lake (vcrv little water nor grass,) 20 Summit, of a bluff, * 2 Small Lake, 3 Through it Kanyon (good grass and water,) 20 Summit of'Sifjrra Nevada, 45 (Several marshy valleys containing lakes in this distance.) Cnmp t U Vnlli'y of Pitt Lnko, 4" Camp, . t. . 1:1 Pit* River, .... .... m Ford of Pitt, ID Second ford, .... .... 7 Third, _'.> Lnst Ford (several fords iu this distance,) < !,"> Camp on the river. .... 'jti Do. Do. (road mar?ljy,) 10 Camp, l' Do. l< Spring, * * GUIim TO CALIFORNIA, Small Late and meadow, s& mi!e (Not much, water in this distance,) Feather River ford'tmtf meadow*, 81 (Plenty of water.) Good Camp, .., fO "Little Yaliey" and Deer creefc, 14 Camp, --- 10 J*Avvso!i*0 Rencho, r... 35 v Very little w&ier and bad road,)' Potter's Rancho, r. . 35 Neal'fl, ... . ... {$ Hamilton City, ^*. ... 18 Yeats*- Rancho, 8 Yuba City and Marysville, 12 SacrAincnlo City, .... 60 Sati Francisco, 175 Py the Lawgon Route to Sacramento c.ty, 2 1 4*> from At. Loui* I o California via. New Mexico. To Independence, 4nO I'rossinrr of Big Arknr.sas, 350 Ben's Fon, -JJ5 Sante Fe, U7U Rio Del Norte at Sun Phili|>i, 30 Descending Ri^la Dunk (Uio Del N ? orte,) 210 ( 'r ppcr minc^, 75 River Gila, *?( PimoYillajre, 600 Mout 1 ^. of (Uta, 105 ( 'rossiii" Clorado, f D-.\ Coma do, 100 Firs't Ranchero in California, 05 Smi I>ieri\ 15 $?a:: 1 .''ii Rey 46 Vuoblo <3e los ' Angelos 1 00 Sni'.ta Barbara, 10 Montery, 310 Rio So!:na, l- r > Rio Srn Joaquin, W- Rio Tuwalnne. J - Rio Strniflr.-w, . l Sn"pr' ? F rt, 10 . fcY THE OVERLAND ROITK. .V, Jr'ron: Sun Francisco to Panama, 3600 Art- ** th l*tllll)UiS H7 T-.\'w Orleaud, ...... ** l()0 5SH7 !'!: New York toSnn Frnncisco via (';, ; r i ii-ir,, . 17l.".' : ) THB CND. CONTENTS. \ames $ Residence, of each Member, <$'C. CHAP. 1. A "Returned CaJifornian" "making a start for the Diggins." Big Blue Little Blue, and Platte Valley. CHAT. 2. FortKearney "Dohy Houses'' 9 Buf- falo, J>er, fyc, Ford 0? Svut/t Platte L'/i- campmcnt cf Sioux Fine Arts CHAP. 3. Indian Mode of Traveling Court House or C/turc/i Chbwy Rock &t-ott's Bluffs Blacksmith Shop and Horse Creek. 1~ CHAP. 4. Fort Isirhnte Warm Springs La Bonte River Magnesictn Li-melons An for- /// start Fishing rn Deer crack crr// of iVor/A Platte Mineral Ijkcs* 1 ' Cif A p. Ty . Samv subject rnn 1 1 \iued. / 9 ordi ng nc- cr* Ice. spring* Ruin and hail storm. I r t'ifAP. 6. "South Pass?' Separation, Grrm River Ham's - Km/. A Supper. Snow Road Soda or llfrr Springs Stcauibtmt CH.A.P. 7. Fort Haft Port Nntf river Amer- ican l*allsRaft River Full River Oregon Road Goose Creek Castle Rocks, Sail lake Valley* 8. Rattle Snake. River Hot Spring* HumMdt river Sink Lairson Route Rab- bit Wells DesertHot Springs Mwl Lcikt. 59 CONTENTS. CHAP. 9. Sierra Nevada- Pitt River Indian Difficultiesan Oregon Company Something to eat Murder of the Canton mess. 31 CHAP. W. Getting Short again A party of "Prospectors" Feather River Meadows Deer creek Lawsons. 35 CHAP. 11. Native Gotd-~where found methods of obtaining it. tt7 CHAP. 12. Climate of California, Us Cause, Soil, Productions, Animals, CHAP. 13 The "Diggers" Habits Religion, %c . , Me x icans a Fa ndango Gh iff Towns . 4 %