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Book of Sauces 
 
 By C. Herman Senn 
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 Author of "Practical Gastronomy", "The 
 Twentieth Century Cookery Book", etc. 
 
 Copyright 1915 by C. Herman Senn 
 
 Published by 
 
 The Hotel Monthly Press 
 
 950 Merchandise Mart 
 Chicago, 111. 
 
PREFACE 
 
 Since sauces accompany practically every 
 dish, whether it be savory (fish or meat) or a 
 sweet, it follows that sauce-making constitutes 
 a most important branch in cookery. An apol- 
 ogy is therefore nardly needed for the publica- 
 tion of a volume devoted entirely to the art of 
 preparing sauces. 
 
 It was, I believe, the great maitre-chef Ca- 
 reme who put a premium on any original crea- 
 tion in cookery. To him it mattered little if 
 people criticised adversely new dishes which he 
 introduced. He had such confidence in his 
 ability to create something artistic as well as 
 original that he could afford to wait while his 
 rivals endeavored to spoil the reputation of his 
 Hollandaise or Salmis. Today an innovation in 
 cookery is subjected to practically the same fire 
 of criticism. One season it is the introduction 
 of a new Entree or Hors-d'oeuvre, the next the 
 culinary world sits in judgment on a certain 
 sauce which becomes fashionable as an adjunct 
 to a famous Entree or Entremet. 
 
 Whilst disclaiming originality of the many 
 standard sauces which are treated in this book, 
 all of which are to be found in most of the 
 complete cookery manuals, a large number of 
 compound and auxiliary sauces combining en- 
 tirely new creations have been included in this 
 book. 
 
 It is hoped that this collection of sauce 
 recipes, which is claimed to be the largest and 
 most complete ever published in one volume, 
 will meet the wants of professional cooks as 
 well as amateurs, and thus fulfill a useful mis- 
 sion. With the exception of standard and 
 stock sauces, the ingredients given with each 
 recipe are based to be sufficient for a full serv- 
 ice of six or seven persons. 
 
 C. H. S. 
 
LIBRARY 
 
 THE BOOK OF SAUCES 
 
 The History of Sauce Making. 
 
 Sauces, according to the famous maftres, chefs 
 and culinary artists of the past, Careme and 
 Soyer, "are to cookery what grammer is to lan- 
 guage, and melody is to music M ; whilst that intel- 
 lectual causeur, the Marquis de Cussy, goes so far 
 as to call the artist in sauces "an enlightened 
 chemist the creative genius of the high-class 
 cuisine. ' ' 
 
 When the practice first began of roasting food 
 particularly meat on the spit, broiling it on 
 the gridiron, and boiling it in large cauldrons, 
 sauces and gravies did not come into the reckon- 
 ing as yet, the instinctive desire for them being 
 satisfied instead by various aromatic herbs and 
 saline (from which is derived "salsa, " the word 
 from which our " sauce " comes) adjuncts to the 
 meal. It is, in fact, only the very choicest morsels 
 of meat, and these only when prepared by the most 
 skilful hands, which, when roasted, fried, or grilled 
 are found savory without sauce, for these contain 
 sufficient juice to prevent them from being dry 
 and insipid. The Englishman even of the present 
 day scorns the sauces of German cookery; but is 
 glad to make the acquaintance of a good French 
 sauce served with roast, baked, or fried meat, or 
 with plain boiled vegetables. 
 
 That there is a standing need for liquid adjuncts 
 for food is indisputable. The modern English 
 method furnishes a very good illustration of the 
 way in which the typical sauce, brought to perfec- 
 tion by the French, has passed through various 
 stages to the lofty eminence it now holds. The 
 ancient Greeks and Romans certainly did prepare 
 sauces, but theirs, as certain others of to-day, not 
 only had no methodical relation to the dishes they 
 accompanied, but were often glaringly unsuited 
 thereto. For instance, the following two sauces, 
 one for meat and the other f OIL mushrooms, are 
 
 ' 
 
4 THE BOOK OF SAUCES 
 
 recommended by Apicius, the great Roman gas- 
 tronomer of Tiberius' time. The former is com- 
 posed of pepper, dried herbs, coriander-seed, rue, 
 fish-brine, honey, and a little oil, all well-ground 
 and thoroughly mixed. For the sauce for mush- 
 rooms the ingredients are: oil, thyme, beans, cara- 
 way-seeds, salt, pepper, ginger, wine, and a small 
 quantity of the mysterious "sylphium," now 
 thought to be assafoatida. It goes without saying 
 that pungent sauces like these must completely 
 overpower and alter the individual flavor of any 
 kind of food. The cooks of ancient Eome, making 
 a virtue of necessity, needed to vie with each other 
 in giving quite a different taste to the meats they 
 prepared; imparting to pork, for instance, the fla- 
 vor of partridge; to goose, that of fish; and to 
 tunny, that of veal. This absurd mania reaches 
 its climax in the performance of that French cook 
 who is said to have prepared a delicious ragout 
 from a leathern glove! ''But the sauce! that 
 is my secret, my work of art, my glory ! ' ' 
 
 The cooks of the Middle Ages were rather lavish 
 in the use of salt, pepper, and other condiments, 
 much more so than those of antiquity; this is 
 shown by a cookery book by Moutardier-Gilde, pub- 
 lished in 1394. Sugar and other sweet substances 
 were also used in abundance by the cooks of that 
 period; and thus the sauces affected then became 
 a heterogeneous melange which would almost hor- 
 rify our modern taste. Let us take two or three 
 examples. For roast goose: chief ingredient, milk, 
 stirred over the fire with flour, salt, pepper, saf- 
 fron, pounded almonds, and goose-dripping; the 
 name of this concoction is given as ' ' goose-milk. ' ' 
 Served with roast beef: roasted apples, raisins, 
 pepper, nutmeg, ginger, and sugar and port wine 
 boiled together and strained, the whole forming a 
 kind of sauce called ' ' Probeat. ' J We thus see that 
 the Middle Ages had but little to teach us in our 
 culinary affairs, and especially so far as sauces 
 are concerned. 
 
 "When the gastronomic reforms begun in all its 
 glory under Catherine de Medicis and Anne of 
 Austria revealed French cookery (the basis of all 
 good international cookery in our own times) it 
 was perceived that the one and only use of a 
 
THE BOOK OF SAUCES 5 
 
 sauce was to heighten the flavor of a special dish. 
 It was Marperger who, in 1718, instituted the use 
 of the word "tunke" in Germany for " sauce 
 proper, 77 to distinguish it more accurately from 
 "gravy, " with which the German name "sause" 
 or "sulze" was apt to be confused. Even now the 
 word for sauce in Low German is "tunke" or 
 "stippe, " the characteristic of this preparation 
 in some parts of Germany being that it is of a 
 consistency to allow of the people dipping ("tunk- 
 ing" or "stipping") morsels of solid food in it; 
 while in their thin gravy on the other hand, they 
 would let the pieces swim till dissolved, the whole 
 being then drunk as liquor. A correct sauce is 
 that wonderful production of the culinary art 
 which forms so pleasant and exquisite an accom- 
 paniment to all kinds of fish, meat, poultry, and 
 game, or vegetables. The onion-flavored cream 
 sauce "Soubise" is said to have been invented 
 by the Lord High Steward the Marquis de 
 Bechamel, whilst history tells us that the brown 
 onion " Sauce Kobert" owes its name by being 
 the head cook of King Francis I. 
 
 The skill and knowledge of a cook is shown in 
 no other part of the culinary art so prominently 
 than in the way in which his or her sauces are 
 prepared. To be able to make a perfect sauce is 
 indeed the height in the art of cooking. 
 
 The most simple dishes can be made relishable by 
 the addition of a good plain sauce, whilst the most 
 recherche dishes can be improved and be made 
 still more palatable by a well-made sauce, just as 
 a good painting is made smarter by being var- 
 nished. 
 
 Sauces in cookery may be termed the essence of 
 elegance of dishes with which they are served. 
 
 Before we enter into the various details of prep- 
 aration of the compositions of sauces, I am anxious 
 to point out that every sauce, whether plain or 
 rich, must possess a decidedly distinct flavor and 
 character. There are many plain sauces which are 
 made quickly and of materials usually at hand. 
 Let these be as the name implies, simple and pure, 
 so that they may merely taste of the materials 
 employed, from which such sauces take their name. 
 
 Eicher sauces always require a longer and slower 
 process for their preparation. 
 
6 THE BOOK OF SAUCES 
 
 Until the beginning of the nineteenth century, 
 the art of sauce making was hardly known in Eng- 
 land. The charge made at that time against the 
 English nation by a celebrated epigrammist, who 
 said that we had many religions but only one sauce, 
 would hardly hold good today, for it is reckoned 
 that there are at least 650 different sauces and 
 gravies known at this moment. An ingenious cook 
 will have as little trouble to form that number of 
 sauces in different varieties, as a musician with his 
 seven notes, or a painter with his pallet and col- 
 ors; nor is it too much to assert that there is no 
 other branch in cookery which offers better oppor- 
 tunities to display the ability of a cook than this. 
 
 The art of sauce making consists in preparing 
 liquids from various materials by cleverly extract- 
 ing and combining certain flavors into the liquid. 
 Besides this the gift of a good palate is essential, 
 which likewise requires all the experience and skill 
 of the most accomplished cook, as well as a thor- 
 ough knowledge of the taste of those for whom he 
 or she is cooking. 
 
 Distinction between Sauces and Gravies: As 
 there are many people who do not know the dis- 
 tinction between sauces and gravies, it is neces- 
 sary to devote a few words to this subject, so as to 
 make this quite clear. A gravy is not a sauce, 
 but simply the juices of meat (roasted or braised 
 meat) seasoned but without being thickened, whilst 
 a sauce may be defined, using the most general 
 term, as a liquid seasoning containing some kind of 
 liaison or thickening which is employed in the 
 presentation of food. 
 
 According to the chief dictionaries, a gravy may 
 be called a sauce, although a sauce is not always 
 a gravy. Many of the ' ' grande ' ' sauces contain gra- 
 vies for their foundation which are used in a 
 concentrated form to enrich the flavor of such 
 sauces. It is therefore more distinctive to call 
 liquids pure and simple gravies, and liquids thick- 
 ened with flour or other ingredients sauces, such 
 as "liaisons/ 7 thickenings or bindings. 
 
 Liaisons: The various processes of thickening 
 sauces as well as soups are called liaisons. There 
 are six distinct methods known for thickening 
 sauces : 
 
THE BOOK OF SAUCES 7 
 
 1. Liaison with roux. 
 
 2. Liaison with eggs. 
 
 3. Liaison with butter and cream. 
 
 4. Liaison with kneaded butter and flour. 
 
 5. Liaison with blood. 
 
 6. Liaison with cornflour, arrowroot, or 
 ferula. 
 
 Koux: The most popular and most generally 
 adopted thickening is effected by means of roux. 
 It is therefore necessary to first give a few details 
 to define the word roux in regard to its culinary 
 meaning. 
 
 Literally the word means russet, but in the cul- 
 inary sense it is a mixture of flour and butter 
 cooked or blended to certain degrees, to white, to 
 brown, or to fawn colors. The quantity of flour 
 and butter employed are used in equal propor- 
 tions. If made beforehand in large or small quan- 
 tities, it should be kept in covered jars, when it 
 will keep good for months. A tablespoonful ii 
 usually found sufficient to thicken a pint of liquid. 
 Stock-roux must always be kept in a cool place 
 and ready at hand for use. 
 
 If used cold it may be mixed with cold or hot 
 stock, but if mixed cold, it must be stirred con- 
 stantly over the fire until boiling; or if mixed 
 hot, the liquid should be poured by degrees into 
 the roux away from the fire, and then stirred over 
 the fire till it boils. 
 
 Special precaution must always be exercised in 
 making a sauce with a roux thickening, that the 
 temperature is lowered, or, in other words, that 
 the roux is allowed to cool a little before the liquid 
 stock or gravy is added. This will prevent the 
 sauce from getting lumpy, and will do much 
 towards making a sauce perfectly smooth. All 
 roux must be stirred constantly during the process 
 of cooking, i. e., frying. 
 
 White Roux (Roux Blanc) : This is a mixture 
 of flour and water, cooked in a stew-pan, on a 
 moderate fire, without allowing it to attain any 
 color, whereby it should retain its original white 
 color. 
 
 Blonde or Fawn Roux (Eoux Blond): This is 
 made by melting a certain quantity of butter, and 
 stirring in the same or a less quantity of sifted 
 
8 THE BOOK OP SAUCES 
 
 flour, and by cooking it over a slow fire or in the 
 oven until it has acquired a light blonde or fawn 
 color. 
 
 Brown Roux (Eoux Brun) : This is the so-called 
 Stock-Koux, which can be prepared in large quan- 
 tities to be used cold as required as before 
 explained. 
 
 It is made exactly in the same manner as the 
 foregoing, with the exception that it is fried 
 longer until it becomes a darker color, a chest- 
 nut brown, or russet brown. It is best to finish 
 the roux in a slack oven, for the slower the process 
 the better the blending and the finer the aroma 
 of the sauce will subsequently be. 
 
 Eoux Liaison: This liaison is made by pouring 
 prepared strained stock gradually into the stew- 
 pan containing the roux, which, as before ex- 
 plained, must be allowed to cool off a little. The 
 contents is then stirred over a slow fire until it 
 boils, and is then allowed to simmer until it at- 
 tains the desired consistency. With brown and 
 blonde sauces the roux employed is usually made 
 up with a "mirepoix" to introduce the necessary 
 flavorings. This item ' ' mirepoix ' ' is more fully 
 explained further on. 
 
 Egg Liaison: This is a thickening composed of 
 yolks of eggs beaten up and diluted with a small 
 quantity of cream, milk, or cold white stock. Cream 
 is more often used than stock. The sauce to which 
 this liaison is added must necessarily be boiling, 
 it is then removed to the side of the stove, when 
 a ladleful of sauce is stirred into the egg mixture, 
 then the whole is poured into the sauce, and stirred 
 over the fire (slow) for several minutes, without 
 permitting it to boil. 
 
 Every sauce or soup which is thickened with 
 eggs should be passed through a tammy before 
 it can be served. This liaison is used largely for 
 blanquettes, white ragouts, and fricasses as well 
 as for soups. 
 
 Butter and Cream Liaisons: Butter and cream 
 are incorporated in equal proportions into sauces 
 and soups, just before they are wanted for serving. 
 Stir vigorously without reheating. The flavor of 
 any sauce would become altered if butter or cream 
 
THE BOOK OF SAUCES 9 
 
 were added too soon, or if a sauce were again 
 allowed to boil. The same may be said of butter 
 liaisons. By this process a quantity of cold fresh 
 butter is added in small bits to sauces the moment 
 they are taken off the fire, they are then stirred 
 with a whisk and served without being reheated. 
 
 Kneaded Butter Liaison: Incorporate or knead 
 as much flour into butter as it will absorb to form 
 a soft paste, and to mix it in small portions into 
 a thin sauce (hot), stirring it constantly until all 
 the butter is melted, constitutes what is called a 
 kneaded butter liaison. 
 
 Blood Liaison: This is mostly used with hare 
 or other game entree sauces. It is made by pre- 
 serving the blood of hare or game, to which is 
 added a little vinegar to prevent it from coagulat- 
 ing; it is then strained through a fine sieve, and 
 stirred gradually into sauces a few minutes before 
 serving. This kind of liaison is but little used 
 now. 
 
 Farinaceous Liaisons: Arrowroot, corn-flour, 
 potato-flour, rice flour (f^gulae), or other similar 
 farinaceous preparations are frequently used for 
 thickening sauces. Dilute one or the other of these 
 with a little milk, cold stock, or water, pour it 
 through a strainer into boiling liquid, stir contin- 
 ually until it boils, then simmer gently for ten or 
 fifteen minutes longer. 
 
 Mirepoix: Although the word mirepoix is a 
 common term in culinary matters, it does not in 
 the least imply or make clear what it constitutes. 
 It is one of the many words which the gastronomic 
 authorities ought to abolish and substitute with a 
 more appropriate one, one that conveys more 
 clearly the meaning of the composition of the title 
 it bears. History tells us that Mirepoix was a 
 Duke whose wife, being a clever cook, became a 
 favorite with Louis XV. I, however, fail to see 
 what this has to do with this culinary adjunct 
 used in the preparation of sauces and soups, 
 braises, and stews. To come to the point, let me 
 explain that a " mirepoix " is nothing less than 
 an essence or extract of meat and vegetables, one 
 of the most useful preparations to impart flavor 
 
10 THE BOOK OF SAUCES 
 
 of exquisite richness in various kinds of sauces, 
 soups, and other culinary preparations. 
 
 To make a mirepoix properly, use the following 
 ingredients: ^ Ib. bacon (ham or gammon) cut 
 into small pieces, 1 carrot (slices), 1 or 2 bay- 
 leaves, a sprig of thyme, 2 small onions (sliced), 
 a clove of garlic, 2 shallots. 
 
 Fry these carefully without actually browning, 
 and the mirepoix proper will be complete. It will 
 afterwards, according to requirements, be diluted 
 and boiled up with wine, sherry, chablis, sauterne, 
 or claret, which will be added to stock or to sauce 
 to simmer in it and to give it the desired flavor. 
 
 Many chefs do not consider a mirepoix complete 
 without a certain quantity of veal or other lean 
 meat, being added. This I maintain to be waste- 
 ful, as the stock employed should contain the 
 necessary flavor of meat needed. The addition 
 of bacon or ham has, on the other hand, quite a 
 different effect as to its flavor, and I cannot 
 speak too highly of it. 
 
 Essences of Meat, etc.: Essences or extracts of 
 meat, fish, poultry, and game are largely employed 
 in the various sauce preparations. These are de- 
 coctions or concentrated liquids containing as 
 much as possible of the flavors, which by certain 
 processes are reduced to the consistency of half- 
 glaze. 
 
 To make an Essence: The materials from which 
 the essence takes its name are put in a stew-pan 
 with a quantity of rich stock, wine, vegetables, and 
 herb flavoring. When sufficiently simmered the 
 liquor is strained into another stew-pan, and when 
 thoroughly skimmed and freed from fat it is re- 
 duced to the consistency needed and put by for 
 use when required. 
 
 The following essences are those most frequently 
 used in high-class kitchens: 
 
 Ham essence, truffle essence, fish essence, mush- 
 room essence, chicken essence, rabbit essence, game 
 essence, pheasant, woodcock, snipe, partridge and 
 lark essence, etc. 
 
 These essences are, of course, used to enrich 
 certain sauces, so as to make their characteristic 
 flavor more conspicuous. It is needless to add that 
 
THE BOOK OF SAUCES 11 
 
 the use of essences is only adopted for very rich 
 sauces, etc. 
 
 Fumet: A fumet is very much the same prepa- 
 tion as essences, but much richer, being reduced 
 with sherry or madeira wine. Fumet, in other 
 words, may be termed the flavor, being in reality 
 the condensed steam which rises from certain 
 cooked and raw meats, game, or poultry, whereby 
 a most exquisite and agreeable flavor is obtained. 
 For a fumet the raw ingredients required are 
 usually saute"ed in the first instance, after which 
 a bouquet of herbs, stock, and wine are added for 
 reduction purposes. 
 
 Foundation Sauces: All the great sauces, as 
 they are called in France, have either well reduced 
 stock or essences for their foundation. Espagnole, 
 Veloute*, Allemande, and Bechamel, are the names 
 of the four sauces known as 1 ' les grandes sauces, ' ' 
 though the actual leading foundation sauces are 
 a brown and a white sauce. 
 
 Espagnole and Bechamel: These are justly 
 termed the Adam and Eve of all their other prepar- 
 ations, because from these an endless variety of 
 sauces can be made. 
 
 If we look into the above statement concerning 
 the four grande sauces more closely, we find that 
 Espagnole is a brown sauce, whilst the other three 
 are white sauces. This must strike the uninitiated 
 as somewhat odd, because only one brown sauce 
 is recognized, whereas in cookery a brown sauce 
 is used at least three times as often as a white 
 sauce. It is furthermore curious, or apparently 
 so, to note that the brown sauce which the French 
 cuisine recognizes as the sauce should be called 
 Spanish (Espagnole). 
 
 The white sauce has two varieties the Bechamel, 
 and Allemande or Veloute. It would, however, be 
 much more distinctive to recognize but two kinds 
 of sauces as foundation or grande sauces, viz.: 
 
 The Espagnole (Spanish) and the Bechamel, 
 which are unquestionably the two leading sauces 
 in cookery, and as such is the case they deserve 
 to receive special recognition. 
 
 Sauce Espagnole versus Brown Sauce: There 
 are many people who imagine that Espagnole sauce 
 
12 THE BOOK OF SAUCES 
 
 is nothing more than an ordinary brown sauce. 
 The French cuisine practically owes much of its 
 advancement in cookery to Spain, although the 
 French have excelled the Spanish cuisine by a long 
 way. Spanish cookery was at one time the pioneer, 
 when no doubt this sauce was introduced into 
 France, and such being the case, it cannot be 
 wondered at that the French cooks have stuck 
 to the name of so important a sauce, which they 
 have adopted as their chief brown sauce. 
 
 The great secret about this brown sauce consists 
 in the hammy flavor, which is blended into the 
 sauce in such a skilful manner, which makes it 
 superior and distinguishable from an ordinary 
 brown sauce. 
 
 Much of the success of a brown sauce a funda- 
 mental sauce depends upon the manner in which 
 the flour is blended, or, to be more correct, roasted. 
 The principle of roasting flour is practically the 
 same in every instance, although there are a num- 
 ber of ways of introducing the roast flavor into a 
 brown sauce. To illustrate my meaning in this 
 respect, let us take the roasting of coffee as an 
 example, which will give us some idea as to what 
 happens in roasting flour for a sauce. We know 
 that when coffee is properly roasted its aromatic 
 qualities are developed, whereby certain salts and 
 volatile oils are blended, bringing out an excellent 
 aroma, which by mere boiling of the berry could 
 never be attained. 
 
 The result obtained by torref action is not merely 
 a change of color and an access of fragrance, but 
 also the development of qualities which affect the 
 human frame, which exhilarate the nervous sys- 
 tem. The process of roasting flour and the sub- 
 sequent result in sauces is to a certain extent the 
 same. To roast the flour to a nut-brown color 
 develops a fragrance of the most exquisite flavor, 
 which will ultimately be incorporated into the 
 sauce or sauces. 
 
 Time required for cooking: In cooking this as 
 well as other sauces, which require a process of 
 long cooking, it should be remembered that a sauce 
 must simmer long enough to clear and have the fat 
 separated and come to the surface, so that it can 
 be skimmed off. 
 
THE BOOK OF SAUCES 13 
 
 The introduction of ham, or lean bacon, this 
 being more often used than ham, into the leading 
 brown sauce is but one out of many other ways of 
 incorporating a so-called smoky or hammy flavor, 
 which makes the Espagnole so characteristic, and 
 there is no question as to whether this addition 
 really improves the flavor, for I can assert with 
 every confidence that the best French cooks put 
 ham with due discretion into practically every first- 
 class brown meat sauce or brown meat soup. We 
 do not, therefore, need any further conviction as 
 to the usefulness of ham in brown sauces. 
 
 It is well worth noting that although the addi- 
 tion of ham is excellent for brown sauce prepara- 
 tions, the introduction of anything approaching 
 the flavor of ham into white sauces has just the 
 opposite effect, being entirely opposed to its char- 
 acter. This shows at once that the nature of white 
 sauce is produced by blending and ebullition alone, 
 so as to keep it quite free from any of the smoky 
 or incalescent flavors. 
 
 Bechamel, Veloutee and Other White Sauces: 
 Sauces of this class need not always be essen- 
 tially white, for very often they are of a creamy, 
 yellow or greenish tint; but the white sauces, 
 the foundation sauces proper, are the result of 
 what has already been explained viz. a blend- 
 ing of flour and butter, perfected by a certain 
 amount of ebullition, which in the first stage 
 becomes a white coulis, or a veloutee, which is 
 subsequently enriched with cream, yolks of 
 eggs, or butter, in order to give it the required 
 distinctive character. 
 
 Brown Sauces: The brown sauce, on the other 
 hand, has to go through a process of roasting in 
 the first instance viz. the preparation of the 
 brown roux, which is roasting flour and butter, 
 to impart the distinctive flavor. This, in addi- 
 tion to the boiling and simmering processes by 
 which the various meats, vegetables, and other 
 ingredients are prepared, produces a brown sauce. 
 
 Plain or Simple Sauces: It must be remem- 
 bered that ordinary sauces, prepared on the 
 quick system, should be allowed to boil at least 
 ten minutes from the time the liquid is added. 
 When a sauce is cooked less than ten minutes, 
 
14 THE BOOK OF SAUCES 
 
 the flour will not have had time to develop its 
 full flavor for sauces, and the butter only par- 
 tially separates, which gives to the sauce a 
 greasy appearance. 
 
 Overcooking of Sauces: It sometimes happens 
 that by some oversight or error a sauce is 
 cooked so long that it becomes oily. In this case 
 a little cold stock, cold milk or water should 
 be added, and if the sauce is stirred until it 
 begins to boil it will again become perfectly 
 smooth, but it must not on any account be 
 allowed to boil any longer. It must be removed 
 from the fire immediately before it actually 
 boils. 
 
 Error in Overseasoning: Many a plain sauce 
 is spoilt by cooks who are too fond of using 
 spicy flavorings. They seem to me to be unable 
 to make a sauce without adding one or more 
 dashes of bottled sauces, spices, etc., thinking 
 that these additions must necessarily be an im- 
 provement. This practice, I need hardly say, is 
 a much mistaken one, for such additions often 
 overpower the essential, natural flavor of their 
 plain sauces, by overloading them with ingre- 
 dients which are unpalatable. A plain sauce, 
 as a rule, needs nothing in the way of seasoning, 
 except salt and pepper, to bring out the flavor 
 and to stimulate or awaken the palate. Those 
 who wish for piquancy of flavor will always find 
 means to satisfy their wants from the cruet. 
 
 Characteristic of Sauces and Seasoning: No 
 matter what the character of a sauce may be, 
 remember that in all compound sauces, whether 
 plain or rich, the rule for seasoning and flavor- 
 ing is the same in every case: that is, the ingre- 
 dients used for this purpose should be so pro- 
 portioned that no flavor predominates over the 
 other, so that by a careful and judicious com- 
 bination of flavors the sauce or sauces prepared 
 will not fail to be acceptable to the palate of 
 the most refined gourmet. 
 
 Cook's Duty Regarding Taste: Furthermore, 
 remember that it is a cook's duty to study the 
 likes and dislikes as to seasoning and flavoring 
 of those for whom she or he works, whereby 
 certain ingredients for every sauce must neces- 
 
THE BOOK OP SAUCES 15 
 
 sarily be increased or lessened according to 
 taste. If this is done, no one need fail to be- 
 come master of the art of sauce-making, so far 
 as the extraction and combination of flavors in 
 sauces are concerned. 
 
 On the Beduction of Sauces: We reduce or 
 boil down sauces to give them the necessary 
 strength and consistency. This is usually the 
 case with the compounds into which stocks, 
 essences, fumets, etc., have been incorporated: 
 these are added for the express purpose of re- 
 duction, and should be in a concentrated form, 
 so as to lessen as much as possible the labor of 
 boiling or simmering. All sauces which need to 
 be reduced must be strained and freed from 
 fat; they must be put on a quick fire at first, 
 and must be stirred with a wooden spatula or 
 spoon to prevent the sauce from adhering to the 
 bottom of the saucepan in which the sauce is 
 put. The necessary quantity of stock, etc., re- 
 quired for its improvement is next added; it is 
 then allowed to boil until it has acquired the 
 desired consistency: when this is effected the 
 sauce is passed through a tammy cloth. 
 
 Various Kinds of Sauces: Having explained 
 the difference between white and brown sauces, 
 and having given minute details of the various 
 thickenings (liaisons), as well as other impor- 
 tant points concerning sauces and their prepara- 
 tion, I will now give a list of the various sauces 
 which are most frequently used in cookery. 
 
 There are two groups of sauces: 
 
 I. Hot Sauces: These are divided into three 
 sections: 
 
 (1) Plain. (2) Savory. (3) Sweet. 
 
 II. Cold Sauces: These are divided into 
 three sections: 
 
 (1) Chaud-froid. (2) Salad. (3) Sweet. 
 
 I. Hot Sauces. 
 
 (1) PLAIN SAUCES. These include: 
 Melted Butter White Sauce Mustard 
 Anchovy Parsley Caper Sauce 
 
 Brown Onion (white Fennel 
 
 Egg or brown) Bread, etc. 
 
16 
 
 THE BOOK OF SAUCES 
 
 (2) SAVOEY SAUCES. (a) 
 
 WHITE 
 
 SAUCES: 
 
 
 
 Bechamel 
 
 Dutch or 
 
 Horse-radish 
 
 Cream 
 
 Hollandaise 
 
 Maitre d 'Hotel 
 
 Oyster 
 
 Lobster 
 
 Pluche 
 
 Mussel 
 
 Normande 
 
 Bearnaise 
 
 Poulette 
 
 Eavigote 
 
 Chicken 
 
 Fines Herbes 
 
 Shrimp 
 
 Supreme 
 
 Soubise 
 
 Provencjale 
 
 Cucumber 
 
 Cardinal 
 
 Celery 
 
 Mousseline, etc. 
 
 Mornay 
 
 Eichalotte 
 
 
 Veloutee 
 
 Allemande 
 
 
 (b) BEOWN 
 
 SAUCES: 
 
 
 Espagnole 
 
 Italienne 
 
 Madere 
 
 Bordelaise 
 
 Bretonne 
 
 Genoise 
 
 Curry 
 
 Financiere 
 
 Lyonnaise 
 
 Chasseur 
 
 Eobert 
 
 Tomato 
 
 Matelotte 
 
 Milanaise 
 
 Bigarade 
 
 Mushroom 
 
 Olive 
 
 Perigord 
 
 Orange 
 
 Eeforme 
 
 Game 
 
 Truffle 
 
 Poivrade 
 
 Estragon, etc. 
 
 Pompadour 
 
 Salmis 
 
 
 Turtle 
 
 Piquante 
 
 
 (3) SWEET 
 
 SAUCES: 
 
 
 Apple 
 
 Peach 
 
 Gooseberry 
 
 Apricot 
 
 Vanilla 
 
 Sabayon 
 
 Mousseline 
 
 Orange 
 
 Easpberry 
 
 Cherry 
 
 German 
 
 Strawberry 
 
 Chocolate 
 
 Custard 
 
 Etc. 
 
 II. Cold Sauces. 
 
 (1) CHAUD-FEOIDS: 
 
 White 
 Fawn 
 Blonde 
 Horse-radish 
 Fines Herbes 
 
 (2) SALAD 
 Mayonnaise 
 Cardinal 
 Moutarde 
 
 (3) SWEET 
 Cream 
 
 Eum 
 Banana 
 Custard 
 Caramel 
 
 Green 
 
 Brown 
 
 Eavigote 
 
 Mint 
 
 Pink 
 SAUCES: 
 
 Tartare 
 
 Eavigote 
 
 Fines Herbes 
 SAUCES: 
 
 Vanilla 
 
 Apricot 
 
 Pineapple 
 
 Liqueur 
 
 Sabayon 
 
 Tomate 
 
 Verte 
 
 Eed 
 
 Cream 
 
 Suedoise, etc. 
 
 Eemoulade 
 Mousseline 
 Vinaigrette, etc. 
 
 Easpberry 
 Strawberry 
 Chocolate, etc. 
 
THE BOOK OF SAUCES 1? 
 
 SEASONING AND FLAVORING 
 
 
 
 The business of an intelligent cook is twofold: 
 he or she must know how to please the eye, but 
 above all the palate must be flattered as well, 
 for "where pleasures to the eye and palate 
 meet, such work is done and the dishes are com- 
 plete. M This is particularly essential in the 
 case of sauces and their making. 
 
 The best chefs de cuisine regard seasoning 
 and flavoring ingredients as absolute necessities 
 to carry out their object, because the success of 
 their cooking depends largely upon their aid. 
 But condiments for seasoning and flavoring must 
 be used with skill, and above all sparingly. 
 
 All palates do not crave for highly spiced 
 foods, or for condiments, yet the majority of 
 people demand that the food should be moder- 
 ately seasoned with some kind of condiments, 
 for the flavor of insipid food can be very much 
 improved by the use of some suitable condiment. 
 
 To flavor or season rightly is an accomplish- 
 ment of no mean order. Consider how much food 
 is spoilt through being over-seasoned, and how 
 much of it is made insipid through lack of 
 proper and sufficient seasoning. Almost every- 
 thing we cook has a flavor of its own, the nat- 
 ural flavor, and to retain this becomes often a 
 difficulty, because the great secret lies in bring- 
 ing out the natural flavor, rather than impart- 
 ing a new one. 
 
 All those who have been initiated into the 
 rudiments of cookery, as well as connoisseurs, 
 must know that the success of any dish, whether 
 plain or elaborate, depends to a very large extent 
 upon its seasoning, and everyone who desires to 
 master this art must carefully study and observe 
 all the rules pertaining to this important branch 
 of cookery. Intelligence, carefulness, thorough, 
 sound judgment, a steady hand, and a keen per- 
 ception of palate are qualifications which every 
 cook must possess in order to prepare food so 
 as to make it appetizing, pleasant to the taste, 
 
18 THE BOOK OP SAUCES 
 
 and in every way perfectly palatable. Well 
 cooked and well seasoned food is admittedly 
 more digestible than the unpalatable. 
 
 An erroneous idea prevails that tf plain cook- 
 ery" requires no other flavoring or seasoning 
 beyond salt, pepper, and, say, Worcester sauce 
 or ketchup. It can easily be proved that there 
 are a variety of inexpensive seasonings besides 
 these which may with advantage be used for 
 imparting a better flavor, whereby the monotony 
 of plain dishes becomes considerably alleviated. 
 
 It is most difficult to give any precise direc- 
 tions for seasoning; experience alone will teach 
 a cook. Tastes differ considerably. What may 
 be agreeable to one may be objectionable or 
 insipid to another. It is the cook's business to 
 study the taste of those he or she serves, and 
 the seasoning of the food must therefore be 
 used according to the requirements of those to 
 whom the dishes are served. 
 
 It is in all cases well to remember that sea- 
 sonings, whatever they may consist of, should be 
 used in small quantities only, as one can always 
 add more if found necessary, but it is impossible 
 to remove any if too much has been added in 
 the first instance. 
 
 The late Monsieur Tide, one of the most tal- 
 ented chefs of the past, in his culinary work 
 says that "the best cookery in the world is 
 worthless without seasoning. " 
 
 We know that cookery acts upon food by 
 diminishing the firmness of some articles, and 
 by increasing it in others. We further know 
 that the flavor is altered as well as the aroma 
 and appearance, whilst seasoning and flavoring 
 heighten the savoriness of food, the action of 
 which is increased by the addition of aromatic, 
 pungent, and stimulant ingredients. The so- 
 called highly seasoned dishes must be regulated 
 on a sliding scale as regards the seasoning em- 
 ployed, so as to adapt them to the various pal- 
 ates, which, as before stated, differ considerably, 
 It is quite impossible to specify in any recipe 
 the exact quantity of seasoning materials for 
 each dish. Not only palates but also stomachs 
 differ as to the amount of salt and spices which 
 
THE BOOK OF SAUCES 19 
 
 suits them. For this reason, if for no other, it 
 is always best to use all seasonings moderately. 
 The object of seasoning, providing always it be 
 added in moderate and reasonable quantities, is 
 to increase the digestibility of food, to flavor 
 food which would otherwise be insipid, and to 
 render it at the same time more palatable and 
 digestible. By seasoning certain food materials, 
 we copy to a certain extent nature, who renders 
 fruit wholesome and agreeable to the taste by 
 associating insipidness with acids, by combining 
 certain forms of starch with sugar, as well as by 
 the characteristic instinctive longing with which 
 nature animates both man and animal for salt 
 and for the flavor and piquancy of aromatic 
 herbs and spices. 
 
 While a fine and discriminating taste is nat- 
 ural to a few only, it may be cultivated in some 
 degree by all. It is the fortune of the cook 
 who possesses it; if not, he or she may, through 
 plenty of experience, acquire it in some measure. 
 
 The most important articles used for season- 
 ing and flavoring are salt, sugar, pepper, spices, 
 aromatic herbs, vinegar, vegetables, mustard, 
 butter and other fats, oils, etc. The principal 
 functions which these adjuncts have to perform 
 is, as explained in the foregoing pages, to render 
 food more palatable, more appetizing, and more 
 digestible. 
 
 Salt is the chief and most important seasoning 
 used; it is not merely a seasoning, but a neces- 
 sary of life, for it removes the insipid flavor 
 from all eatables, such as meat, vegetables, etc.; 
 it acts as an appetizer, and promotes digestion. 
 The average quantity of salt required by each 
 person being, according to medical authority, 
 from }4 to % an ounce per day, it becomes a 
 necessary adjunct for the preservation of health. 
 When added to food it excites the supply of two 
 important agents in the processes of digestion 
 and nutrition, viz., the gastric juice and the 
 constituents of the bile. Salt, like all season- 
 ings, must be used with judgment. 
 
 When added to boiling water, it raises the 
 boiling-point and liberates the oxygen. Salt acts 
 
20 THE BOOK OF SAUCES 
 
 further as a great preserving agent for meat, 
 vegetables, and other substances. 
 
 Spices, such as white and black pepper, 
 cayenne, cloves, nutmeg, paprika (Hungarian 
 pepper), coriander, cinnamon, mace, etc., cannot 
 be considered to have any nutritive properties. 
 They are used for the purpose of imparting cer- 
 tain flavors to improve the taste of various food 
 substances. In adding the seasoning and flavor- 
 ing to dishes, it is of the greatest importance 
 for a cook to remember that the exquisite sensi- 
 bility of a cook's palate can best be judged and 
 admired by his or her cooking. 
 
 Allspice: This well-known and useful spice is 
 the berry of the "Eugenia Pimenta," a small 
 tree growing in the West Indies. The fruit is 
 gathered when green and unripe, and put to dry 
 in the sun, when it turns black. Large quanti- 
 ties of it are employed in the manufacture of 
 the sauces sold in shops. The berries combine 
 the flavor of cloves, cinnamon, and nutmeg, 
 hence the name allspice. It is also called 
 Pimento or Jamaica pepper. 
 
 Cloves: Cloves belong to the order of myrtles. 
 They are the unopened flower-buds of a plant 
 called the ' ' Caryophyllus aromaticus, " a native 
 of the Moluccas. Owing to their resemblance 
 to a nail they derive their name from the 
 French word "clou." They form a well-known 
 spice, and are much used in cookery, both in 
 sweet and savory dishes. To a stew or ragout, 
 etc., an onion stuck with cloves is almost indis- 
 pensable. 
 
 Nutmeg: Used extensively for various sea- 
 sonings, both sweet and savory. It is the seed 
 of the nutmeg-tree [Myristica moschata], a na- 
 tive of the Molucca Islands, but is now culti- 
 vated in Java, Cayenne, Sumatra, and some of 
 the West Indian Islands. The fruit is sur- 
 rounded by a husk [arillus], which is known as 
 mace. The nutmeg is pear-like in appearance, 
 and is usually grated for culinary purposes. 
 Nutmegs should never be used in large propor- 
 tions for seasoning because they are supposed 
 to contain narcotic properties. 
 
THE BOOK OF SAUCES 21 
 
 Mace is the outer shell or husk of the nutmeg, 
 and it resembles it in flavor. When good it 
 should be orange-yellow in color. Used whole 
 or powdered for both seasoning and flavoring. 
 
 Curry is a condiment and a spice, but is, 
 strictly speaking, a mixture of many others. 
 Perhaps only an Indian can make it to perfec- 
 tion, many of its ingredients being native to 
 the country, whose poorest peasantry look upon 
 curry as a daily necessity. 
 
 Mustard: There are two varieties of mustard 
 seeds, "Sinapis nigra," the black, and "Sinapis 
 alba," the white. These are ground and mixed. 
 The pungency of mustard is more fully devel- 
 oped when moistened with water. It is supposed 
 to give energy to the digestive organs, and to 
 promote appetite if taken in small quantities. 
 It is used as a table condiment, and for sauces, 
 dressings, etc. 
 
 Cinnamon: This substance comes from the 
 bark of a species of laurel, "Laurus Cinna- 
 momum," and is about the oldest known spice 
 in the world. The tree is chiefly cultivated in 
 Ceylon, but cinnamon also comes from Madras, 
 Java, and Bombay. The three-year-old branches 
 are stripped of the outer bark, the inner is 
 loosened and dried, which makes it shrivel up, 
 and assume the quill form in which it is im- 
 ported. The best cinnamon should not be too 
 dark in color, and should be hardly thicker than 
 paper. It has a fragrant odor, and its taste is 
 pleasant and highly aromatic. Besides being 
 used extensively for culinary purposes, cinna- 
 mon is much employed medicinally as a powerful 
 stimulant. 
 
 Turmeric: Turmeric [Curcuma longa] belongs 
 to the ginger family, and is extensively culti- 
 vated in the East Indies as a condiment. The 
 tubers are dried and then ground to a fine 
 powder. It enters largely into the composition 
 of curry powder, and gives it the peculiar odor 
 and the bright yellow color which that compound 
 possesses. 
 
 Coriander: This is the fruit or so-called seeds 
 of a plant of Eastern origin [Coriandrum sati- 
 
22 THE BOOK OF SAUCES 
 
 vum]. Coriander seeds are used by the confec- 
 tioner and distiller, and in the manufacture of 
 curry powder. The leaves have also been used 
 in soups and salads. They are also used for 
 flavoring jellies, etc. 
 
 Aromatic Spice is a mixture of various flavors, 
 consisting of pepper, salt, cinnamon, mace, pow- 
 dered bayleaf, thyme, marjoram, nutmeg, and 
 cayenne. These are used principally for braised 
 meats, sautes, ragouts, galantines, vol-au-vents, 
 game pies, and numerous other preparations. 
 
 Pepper: Pepper is produced from the seed or 
 berries of the plant or shrub known by the 
 name of "Piper nigrum, " which grows in Mal- 
 abar and various parts of India. The berry has 
 a dark brown or black cuticle. "Black pepper " 
 consists of the dried berries ground whole, 
 whilst "white pepper" is produced from the 
 same berries, after their dark husks have been 
 removed, and ground finely. White pepper is 
 milder than black pepper. 
 
 Pepper was known to the ancient Greeks, and 
 so highly was it thought of, that when Alaric 
 besieged Kome in 408 A. D., he included in the 
 ransom 3,000 pounds of pepper. 
 
 As a condiment, pepper is valuable in heighten- 
 ing the flavor and giving piquancy to savory 
 dishes, and it behooves a cook to know just 
 what pepper should be used for each dish, for 
 by the use or abuse of this sort of seasoning it 
 is quite possible to make or mar the happiness 
 of a dinner. 
 
 Long Pepper [Piper longum] is a spice similar 
 in taste and smell to the ordinary pepper in com- 
 mon use. It is not so pungent; it is mostly 
 used in making curry powder and in pickles. 
 The plant on which it grows is a native of East 
 India. 
 
 Mignonette Pepper: This is ordinary white 
 pepper with the husks removed, and crushed 
 finely but not ground. 
 
 Cayenne Pepper consists of a species of the 
 dried fruit of capsicums, which is red in color 
 and grows principally in Cayenne. The pods are 
 also imported under the name of " chillies. " It 
 
THE BOOK OF SAUCES 23 
 
 has a powerful pungent flavor, and is very useful 
 for flavoring purposes. It also enters into the 
 composition of curry powder. 
 
 The plant has been acclimatized in Europe, and 
 its pods are used for pickling, and sometimes for 
 flavoring sauces and stews. 
 
 Krona Pepper is a bright red pepper made 
 from the Hungarian paprika, capsicum pod, etc. 
 It is much milder than cayenne, and not in the 
 least pungent. It forms one of the most palata- 
 ble seasonings for the cuisine and table. 
 
 A Pinch of Salt or Pepper: This expression 
 is much used in cookery; it is therefore neces- 
 sary, in order to convey a notion of the accurate 
 quantities of a pinch, to state that a pinch of 
 salt or pepper should be % of an ounce, and a 
 small pinch (mostly applied to cayenne) -^ of 
 an ounce in weight. It would, however, be diffi- 
 cult and impracticable to make use of the scales 
 every time a pinch of salt or pepper is required. 
 The best plan is to ascertain the capacity of 
 one 's fingers by weighing the quantity they hold, 
 and then getting accustomed to the exact quan- 
 tity required for seasoning. 
 
 In the matter of spices, as well as of herbs 
 and soup vegetables, it is best to avoid continu- 
 ally referring to the scales, to accustom oneself 
 as much as possible to be able to tell by sight the 
 weight of the needful quantity of ingredients 
 required. 
 
 Aromatic Herbs and Plants: The following 
 are the names of herbs and plants mostly used 
 in the kitchen: Parsley, bay -leaves, thyme, 
 marjoram, sage, tarragon, chervil, chives, onions, 
 shallots, garlic, etc. A number of these are used 
 in a dry state, but either dry or fresh they are 
 used in a large variety of preparations. 
 
 The Bouquet Garni is the mainstay of the 
 French cuisine, and well it may be; it is more 
 delicate and subtle than spices or dried condi- 
 ments are apt to be. Usually the bouquet garni 
 is composed of sprigs of chervil, chives, thyme, 
 bay-leaves, tarragon, and parsley. 
 
 Parsley possesses a wonderful property of ab- 
 sorbing or masking the taste of stronger flavor- 
 
24 THE BOOK OF SAUCES 
 
 ing ingredients, so much so that an overdose of 
 this herb is likely to overpower the more deli- 
 cate aromas of seasonings. There is no herb 
 which plays such an important part in cookery 
 as parsley. Not only does it give the finishing 
 touch to many sauces and stews, but it is the 
 favorite for garnishing dishes. The curled leaf 
 parsley is the best and most often used both for 
 flavor and appearance. Parsley is said to be a 
 native of Sardinia, but is largely cultivated in 
 every country in Europe. Powdered parsley is 
 excellent for a number of dishes for imparting 
 a most delicate flavor. The process is simple. 
 Steep some fresh parsley in boiling water for a 
 few seconds; then drain and put it in a hot 
 oven for a few minutes to dry. Put through a 
 sieve and use as required. 
 
 Tarragon and Chervil: Tarragon belongs to 
 the same family as wormwood, and is called by 
 botanists " Artemisia Dracunculus. " It is sup- 
 posed to be a native of Siberia. The leaves of 
 chervil possess a peculiar flavor, which is much 
 appreciated by many. Of all the pot-herbs, 
 these two are the most odoriferous, and are much 
 used in French cookery in entrees and sauces, 
 and sometimes soups. In salads, salad sauces, 
 chaud-froid, etc., they also form an important 
 part. Tarragon-leaves are also used for flavoring 
 vinegar, which is very largely used in all kitch- 
 ens and dining-rooms. 
 
 Thyme: Thyme belongs to the same family as 
 mint, the ' ' Labiatae. ' y The leaves of this plant 
 [Thymus vulgaris] are used fresh or dry for 
 stuffing, soups, etc. It possesses a highly aro- 
 matic flavor, and should be used sparingly. The 
 lemon thyme [Thymus citriodorus] is a smaller 
 kind, and has a strong perfume like the rind of 
 lemons, which is very agreeable. 
 
 Burnet: The use of this perennial plant has 
 gone somewhat out of fashion. In former timefl 
 it made one of the principal ingredients in 
 claret cup, its leaves, when slightly bruised, 
 smelling like cucumber. Its modern use is con- 
 fined to salads, and combined with tarragon, 
 chives, and chervil, burnet forms the French 
 
THE BOOK OF SAUCES 25 
 
 "ravigote. " Although called " pimprenelle " in 
 French, it must not be confused with the Eng- 
 lish pimpernel, which is poisonous. 
 
 Capsicums: Of these there are several kinds 
 which are cultivated in the East and West Indies 
 and in America. They yield a fruit which is 
 pungent and stimulating, and in Mexico the pods 
 are called chillies; these are used to make a 
 hot pickle and chilli vinegar. It is the powder 
 of the seeds and pods dried that constitutes 
 cayenne pepper. Capsicums owe their power to 
 an active principle called capsicin, and are con- 
 sidered to be very wholesome. 
 
 Savory: Of this flavoring herb there are two 
 varieties, the summer savory [Satureja hor- 
 tensis] and the winter savory [Satureja mont- 
 ana]. It was introduced into England in the 
 seventeenth century. Both varieties are exten- 
 sively used for flavoring and seasoning purposes. 
 
 Marjoram: There are four kinds of marjoram, 
 but the sweet or knotted marjoram [Origanum 
 Majorana], a native of Portugal, and introduced 
 into this country in the sixteenth century, is the 
 kind generally used in our kitchens. It imparts 
 a delicious flavor to soups, sauces, stews, etc. In 
 July the leaves are dried and kept for winter 
 use. 
 
 Mint: Mint belongs to a family of plants 
 called "Labiatae". The spearmint [Mentha 
 viridis] cultivated in our gardens has the most 
 agreeable flavor of the various kinds of mint, 
 and is the one most generally used in cookery. 
 It possesses the property of correcting flatu- 
 lency, hence the custom of using it in pea-soup 
 and with new potatoes, etc. 
 
 Bay-leaves: The leaves of the common laurel 
 [Prunus Laurocerasus] are employed for culinary 
 purposes to give a kernel-like flavor to stocks, 
 mirepoix, sauces, custards, puddings, blanc- 
 manges, and the milk and water with which 
 cakes are mixed. They are generally dried for 
 use. 
 
 Basil: This is a favorite herb with the 
 French cooks; it has a scent very like that of 
 cloves. Basil for winter use can be obtained 
 
26 THE BOOK OF SAUCES 
 
 in bottles, and it is the best herb for clear mock- 
 turtle and other clear soups made of shell-fish. 
 It is also used for flavoring vinegar. The mid- 
 dle of August is the best time for making basil 
 vinegar. 
 
 Onions: The name onion is given to all plants 
 of the onion tribe, in which we include leek, 
 garlic and shallot (echalote). The onion is, un- 
 doubtedly, next to salt, the most valuable of 
 all flavoring substances used in cookery. 
 
 When onions, shallots or garlic are used, they 
 should always be well blended with other flavors, 
 so that the peculiar and often objectionable taste 
 of these cannot be detected. 
 
 The smell of the onion, however, is objection- 
 able to many, whilst others will have it that the 
 flavor of onion disagrees with them. The question, 
 therefore arises, how can this be overcome? The 
 answer is very simple. By thorough cooking 
 and manipulation the presence of onion in a 
 stew, soup or sauce may be disguised, retaining 
 at the same time the essential essence of this 
 valuable flavoring root. By cunningly con- 
 cealing the flavor with others in a sauce, stew 
 or soup, it will yield enjoyment even to those 
 who would carefully avoid it if they knew it 
 was there. Whenever onion is used as a condi- 
 ment or seasoning, and the article is properly 
 treated as a flavoring substance should be, much 
 of the objection of an unpleasant smell is re- 
 moved. Too much attention cannot be bestowed 
 upon its preparation. 
 
 Garlic: This is one of the alliaceous plants. 
 It consists of a group of several bulbs called 
 " cloves/' all enclosed in one membranous skin. 
 When used judiciously and sparingly, garlic is 
 a most excellent condiment; but with the Eng- 
 lish taste it seldom finds favor, although many 
 without knowing it partake of dishes where it 
 is cunningly concealed. Eubbing the dish once 
 with a clove of garlic cut in half imparts quite 
 sufficient flavor; but in Italy and other coun- 
 tries it is used on a larger scale in fact, it 
 enters into the composition of nearly every dish. 
 Garlic is considered to be very wholesome, and 
 to act as a slight stimulant and tonic. 
 
THE BOOK OF SAUCES 27 
 
 Shallot: This bulbous root resembles garlic, 
 and belongs to the same genus. It is a native of 
 Palestine, and was introduced into England by 
 the Crusaders. The place in Palestine where 
 it was first found was Ascalon: hence its botan- 
 ical name, "Allium ascalonicum. ' ' The shallot 
 is extremely useful in cookery, especially for 
 flavoring sauces, vinegar, etc. It is more pun- 
 gent than garlic, but of more delicate flavor, and 
 consequently more popular than the former. 
 
 Carrots and Turnips: Next to the onion, the 
 carrot and turnip are considered the most im- 
 portant flavoring vegetables for soups and sauces. 
 Carrots were known in the time of Elizabeth, 
 and in the reign of James I. they were looked 
 upon as most uncommon and as a luxury, so 
 much so that ladies wore them as a decoration 
 in place of feathers upon their hats and sleeves. 
 Besides their use for flavoring, carrots and tur- 
 nips are largely used for garnishing certain 
 dishes, such as ragouts, boiled meats, etc. They 
 are also served as vegetables by themselves, also 
 as purees for soups, etc. It will thus be seen 
 that the humble onion, carrot and turnip are 
 most important in the preparation of many 
 dishes; and in addition to these there is the bou- 
 quet garni, the parsley root, so-called pot-herbs, 
 and numerous others, each of which has its special 
 value, the characteristic of which every cook 
 should be fully acquainted with. But, let me 
 repeat, strongly flavored herbs, as well as so- 
 called pot or soup vegetables, should always be 
 used with moderation and judgment. 
 
 Vinegar: Vinegar is derived from a variety 
 of sources. The best vinegar is the French vin- 
 aigre d 'Orleans. It is made from white wine; 
 but common vinegar is mostly prepared from 
 malt in this country. The uses to which vin- 
 egar is applied in cookery are very numerous; it 
 forms the foundation of many sauces, and if 
 taken with food in small quantity it is said to 
 assist digestion. If taken, however, in excess, 
 it is highly injurious. Owing to its antiseptic 
 and agreeable flavor, it is largely used for pre- 
 serving vegetable substances known under the 
 
28 THE BOOK OF SAUCES 
 
 name of " pickles. " It also has the faculty of 
 softening the fibres of meat and making them 
 tender. 
 
 Sugar is largely used for fruits of all kinds, and 
 farinaceous foods; besides seasoning tasteless 
 things, sugar also affords considerable nutriment. 
 The value of sugar as a condiment is not always 
 sufficiently realized. It renders watery and insipid 
 vegetables more digestible, and in unsuspected 
 quantities it softens and heightens the flavor 
 of sauces and ragouts. If mingled with other- 
 wise insipid food articles, it stimulates the 
 stomach to a slight degree, and hastens the action 
 of the digestive organs. Sugar is also found use- 
 ful in rendering watery vegetables, such as peas, 
 cucumbers, pumpkins, spinach, cooked endive, etc., 
 more digestible, and in the same manner assists 
 digestion of starchy matters which are used for 
 soups, sauces, gruel, etc. 
 
 Lemons: Lemons play an important part in 
 sauce and other cookery. The rind, juice, and 
 essential oil all contain valuable properties. The 
 rind or peel is used for flavoring a variety of 
 dishes. As a rule the rind is grated, but the 
 best way to obtain the largest amount of the 
 essence from the lemon is to pare the rind with 
 a very sharp knife as thinly as possible, with- 
 out encroaching on the white part of the rind, 
 thus cutting right through the many cells con- 
 taining the essence. Some cooks obtain the zest 
 by rubbing the lemon with lumps of sugar. It 
 is from the rind that the essential oil of lemon 
 is obtained, which is a more reliable substitute 
 than fresh lemon peel. The rind preserved with 
 sugar forms the well-known candied peel. 
 
 Vanilla: Vanilla was first discovered by the 
 Spaniards. It is the fruit of a parasitical plant 
 an orchid and the best is found in Mexico. 
 It has a delicious fragrance, and is now largely 
 used for flavoring puddings, cakes, custards, 
 liqueurs, chocolate, etc. For flavoring purposes it 
 is better to use the vanilla pods or vanilla sugar 
 than the essence of vanilla, the odor of which 
 quickly escapes. 
 
 Ginger: Ginger is the tuber of a perennial 
 
THE BOOK OF SAUCES 29 
 
 plant called "Zingiber officinale," growing 
 chiefly in the West Indies. It is the most gen- 
 erally used of all spices, and is very agreeable 
 and wholesome. There are two kinds of ginger 
 the white and the black. The former is con- 
 sidered the best, and is prepared by washing 
 and scalding the tubers, and then scraping them 
 and drying them in the sun; in black ginger the 
 scraping process is omitted, it being merely 
 scalded before being dried. Ginger is much used 
 in culinary operations, especially by confection- 
 ers, and it also finds its way into sauces, beer, 
 spiced wines and other beverages. 
 
 HINTS ON STOCK MAKING. 
 
 Use only fresh ingredients such as meat, vege- 
 tables, etc., in proper proportion. 
 
 Boil up the stock daily and keep it in earthen- 
 ware pans, not in metal stewpans or pots. 
 
 Remove the fat as soon as it congeals on the 
 surface of a stock. 
 
 The removal of fat is most essential to all 
 finished stocks and finished sauces alike. Sauces, 
 no matter what kind, should never be greasy. It 
 is strongly advisable that stock for sauces should 
 be prepared the day before it is required. 
 
 If this advice be followed a great deal of labor 
 may be saved, and better results will be ob- 
 tained. Stock loses nothing if kept for two days, 
 provided it be put away in clean vessels (earthen- 
 ware pans). 
 
 Stock for Sauces: A great many of the recipes 
 for sauces direct the use of stock because by its 
 use they are made much richer and more nourish- 
 ing than when water is used. 
 
 Stock is the liquor in which fresh meat, bones, 
 and vegetables have been boiled long enough 
 to extract the goodness therefrom. 
 
 To make a useful stock, cut up the meat or 
 meat trimmings and chop the bones; put them 
 in a stock-pot or large stewpan and fill up with 
 cold water, allowing a quart to each pound of 
 meat and bones; add a little salt, and allow it to 
 
30 THE BOOK OF SAUCES 
 
 come to the boil slowly. Then remove the scum, 
 and add stock vegetables, such as carrot, turnip, 
 onion, celery leaves, and parsley root if handy, all 
 of which must have been previously prepared, 
 cleaned and washed. Cook, i. e., simmer, gently 
 for about three or four hours, then strain for 
 use, but be sure that every particle of fat is re- 
 moved. Almost any kind of meat (cooked or 
 raw), bones, and gravy from roast meat may be 
 used for stock making so long as they are fresh 
 and sweet. 
 
 Preparations made from Stocks are summarized 
 as follows: First stock (bouillon or broth). 
 Second or general stock (remouillage) ; this is a 
 refill of the first stock. Essences. Half-glaze 
 (demi-gla^e) a reduction of first or second 
 stock; and lastly, glaze. 
 
 Fish Stock: This can be made of almost any 
 kind of fish, but oily fish should be avoided. 
 Fish broth, all know, is particularly nourishing, 
 light and digestible. Thick-skinned fish always 
 make the best broth. 
 
 The following is an excellent stock: 
 
 Take 2 Ibs. fish and fish bones, set it in a pot 
 with two quarts of water, an onion stuck with 
 two cloves, a few peppercorns, mace, and a bou- 
 quet. Skim as it comes to a boil, and allow it 
 to reduce to about half its quantity by very slow 
 simmering. A little white wine or vinegar is 
 often put with this stock. Wine gives a specially 
 nice flavor to fish broth. Salt must be added at 
 the last moment. 
 
 AUXILIARY RECIPES FOR SAUCES. 
 
 Bouquet garni: This item is used in several 
 of the sauce recipes; it is often called a bunch 
 of herbs, or a fagot of sweet herbs, and is much 
 used in all kinds of meat cookery where savory 
 flavor is desired. Many people praise the flavor 
 of French soups and sauces, the delicious aro- 
 matic flavor of which is generally due to the use 
 of a bouquet of herbs or a bouquet garni, which 
 enters largely into the composition of many of 
 
THE BOOK OF SAUCES 31 
 
 the French preparations, soups, ragouts and 
 sauces. To make a bouquet garni, lay upon the 
 left hand a few branches of fresh parsley well 
 washed, and place upon this a sprig of thyme, 
 a sprig of marjoram, a bay-leaf, a sprig of basil, 
 a celery leaf and a small piece of cinnamon 
 stick, also a clove of garlic if liked, together 
 with a small blade of mace and a pepper pod 
 (long pepper). Fold the parsley round the other 
 herbs, etc., and tie with a string into a neat little 
 bunch (bouquet) and use as directed. Excessive 
 use of strong-smelling herbs or spices must in 
 all cases be avoided. 
 
 Meat Glaze (Glace de Viande): Put 8 quarts 
 of good stock, white or brown, into a stewpan, 
 boil up, skim well, and reduce on a moderate 
 fire from S 1 /^ to 4 hours. It will make barely half 
 a pint when done. Put into a jar whilst hot, 
 cover and keep in a dry place, and use as required. 
 If well made it will keep for a long time. 
 
 Duxelle Puree (Eequired: 2 oz. butter, 2 oz. 
 finely chopped cooked ham, 6 mushrooms, 3 shal- 
 lots, 1 clove garlic, 1 truffle, 1 glass of white 
 wine stock, bay-leaf, pepper, salt, nutmeg, alle- 
 mande sauce). 
 
 Chop the mushrooms, shallots, a few sprigs of 
 parsley, garlic, and the truffle. Melt the butter 
 in a stewpan, add the ham and the above-named 
 ingredients, stir over the fire for a few minutes, 
 moisten with a glass of white wine and a little 
 stock, season with pepper, salt, nutmeg and a 
 little powdered bay -leaf j when well reduced stir 
 in four tablespoonfuls of allemande sauce, boil 
 again, and serve as required. 
 
 Fumet of Game (Fumet de Gibier) : Carcass of 
 game, 1 small carrot, % onion, 1 bay -leaf, 1 sprig 
 of thyme, 2 oz. raw ham, 1 oz. lard or butter, 1 
 glass sherry, 1 quart stock. 
 
 Chop up the carcass, wash, peel and slice the 
 carrot, peel and slice the onion. Put the butter 
 or lard in a stewpan, when hot add the carcass 
 and ham cut into small pieces, fry a few minutes, 
 then add the vegetables and herbs. Fry again, 
 moisten with the wine, cover, and steam a few 
 minutes, add the stock and cook for twenty min- 
 utes. Skim, strain, and use as directed. 
 
32 THE BOOK OF SAUCES 
 
 Chicken Essence (Essence de Volatile) : Ee- 
 duce 1 quart of chicken stock or consomme over 
 a slow fire to about half a pint. Skim, strain 
 into a white pot, and use as required. 
 
 Meat Juice: (This is sometimes used to en- 
 rich certain sauces.) To extract the juice from 
 meat, a special press is required. The meat in- 
 tended for this purpose must be very underdone. 
 
 Venison and ducks, beef fillets and carcasses, 
 are frequently treated in this way. 
 
 Eaw, lean beef when required for raw beef 
 juice should be well batted, freed from skin and 
 fat, and cut into strips before being put into 
 the press. 
 
 Chopped Parsely (Persil hache"): Wash some 
 parsley, trim off some of the stalks if coarse, 
 chop as finely as possible, place it in the corner 
 of a clean cloth, fold the end of the cloth, and 
 hold tightly under the water-tap or rinse in a 
 basin of cold water, squeeze out all the water, 
 and put the parsley on a plate till wanted. 
 
 To Chop an Onion: Peel the onion, cut it in 
 two lengthways, leaving the stalk ends. Com- 
 mence to slice each half without detaching the 
 slices from the stalk. Keep firmly together, and 
 cut through several times crossways; then cut 
 down horizontally into fine squares, until you 
 come to the stalk. This is the quickest way to 
 mince an onion, but it requires practice. The 
 other way is to peel and chop in the ordinary 
 manner. When fine enough, wash in cold water, 
 drain on a cloth, and use as required. 
 
 To Chop Mushrooms: If freshly gathered mush- 
 rooms are used, peel off the skins, trim the stalks, 
 and wash in cold water; then chop as required 
 and use immediately. 
 
 Preserved mushrooms are well drained, and 
 then chopped as required. 
 
 Liaisons in general (for thickening of sauces) : 
 There are a number of processes of thickening 
 soups and sauces, and these are called ' ' liaisons, ' ' 
 in a culinary sense. 
 
 Liaison may be composed of flour (fecule, 
 arrowroot, cornflour, creme-de-riz, etc. ), diluted 
 in either milk, cream, stock or water, according 
 
THE BOOK OF SAUCES 33 
 
 to the nature of the soup or sauce for which it is 
 re/quired. A liaison should always be strained 
 before it is mixed with the liquid which requires 
 thickening, and the preparation be well stirred 
 whilst the latter is added. 
 
 The liaison of egg is frequently used for white 
 purees, blanquettes, fricassees and white sauces. 
 
 Only the yolks of eggs should be used, mixed 
 with a small quantity of cream, and well beaten. 
 
 Such liaison should only be added to the prep- 
 aration for which it is required when it is 
 thoroughly cooked; part of the soup or sauce 
 is poured on to the liaison, stirred and then 
 all mixed well together. 
 
 When once the liaison of egg is added, the 
 preparation must on no account be allowed to 
 boil, but only just get thoroughly heated, so 
 as to form the liaison, thus preventing the eggs 
 from curdling. 
 
 How to Tammy Sauces: Some of the more 
 delicate compound sauces are frequently strained 
 through a tammy cloth, so as to render them as 
 smooth or creamlike as possible. To effect this 
 process two persons are needed who take hold 
 of the tammy cloth on both ends; the liquid or 
 puree to be passed is then poured in the cloth, 
 each holds a wooden spoon with the right hand 
 and the end of the cloth with the left hand, and 
 both spoons are pressed backward and forward, 
 in regular motion, till the bulk of the liquid has 
 passed through. 
 
 Liquid Caramel: (for coloring sauces.) Put 
 a pound of loaf, castor or moist sugar into a 
 copper stewpan or sugar -boiler. Add about half 
 a gill of water, and let it dissolve slowly, then 
 stir over a slow fire and cook until a dark brown 
 color; when a whitish smoke appears it is a 
 sign that the sugar is done. Eemove it from 
 the fire, pour on about a pint of boiling water, 
 allow this to boil up whilst stirring, and cook till 
 it has the appearance of a syrup; when cool put 
 it in a corked bottle and use as required. 
 
 Caramel should be used with discretion. Good 
 cooks rarely use it, for it is apt to impart a 
 bitter taste if used too freely. It is principally 
 used for coloring, gravies and sauces. 
 
34 THE BOOK OF SAUCES 
 
 Aspic or Savory Jelly: (used for certain Cold 
 sauces for chaud froids, etc): Eequired: 1 quart 
 clear stock or water, 2^ oz. gelatine, the juice 
 of 1 lemon and its rind, % gill sherry, % gill tar- 
 ragon vinegar, % gill French wine or Orleans vine- 
 gar, 1 small bunch of herbs, (bouquet garni), 1 
 small onion sliced, 1 bay-leaf, 10 peppercorns, 
 10 allspice, 1 blade of mace, a few celery leaves, 
 % small carrot, sliced, % teaspoonful salt, the 
 whites and shells of 2 eggs. 
 
 See that all the ingredients are ready and 
 the vegetables clean. Whisk up lightly the 
 whites of eggs with the shells, and put them, 
 together with the remainder of the above-named 
 ingredients, into a well-tinned stewpan, stir with 
 a whisk over the fire, and bring it thus slowly 
 to boil. Eemove the whisk and draw the stew- 
 pan away from the fire, and allow it to simmer 
 gently on the side of the stove for about twenty 
 minutes. Strain through a clean cloth previously 
 steeped in boiling water and tied over a soup 
 stand or the legs of a stool upside down; or 
 pass it through a warm jelly-bag; if not clear 
 at first, pass it through a second or third time. 
 The aspic is then ready for use. This aspic is 
 suitable for borders or decorative purposes; if 
 required for other purposes, 2 ounces of gela- 
 tine will be found sufficient. 
 
 SAVOEY OE COMPOUND SAUCES 
 
 Used for Fish, Meat, Poultry, Game and Certain 
 Vegetables. 
 
 Admiral Sauce (Sauce a rAmiral): To one 
 pint of rich white sauce (veloute or allemande) 
 add 1 dessertspoonful of finely chopped capers, 1 
 teaspoonful of chopped parsley, one of chopped 
 lemon rind, the juice of half a lemon, and a 
 teaspoonful of anchovy essense. Eeheat and 
 serve hot. 
 
 Aigre-Douce Sauce: % pint poivrade sauce, 1 
 tablespoonful red-currant jelly, 2 tablespoonfuls 
 cream. 
 
 To the poivrade sauce add the red-currant jelly, 
 
THE BOOK OF SAUCES 35 
 
 boil up and skim, then stir in the cream, reheat 
 without boiling again, season to taste and use as 
 required. This sauce is especially suitable for 
 roast game, etc. 
 
 Albany Sauce: Peel thinly one small cucum- 
 ber, cut it into small pieces, cook till tender in 
 salted water, then drain, and rub through a fine 
 sieve. When cold stir in a puree made with one 
 teaspoonful of anchovy essence, a tablespoonful 
 of tarragon vinegar, a dessertspoonful of chut- 
 ney, a dessertspoonful of finely chopped gherkins, 
 half a pint of mayonnaise, half a gill of aspic 
 jelly, half a gill of cream, paprika pepper, a little 
 salt, and a pinch of castor sugar. Mix all well 
 together and add a few drops of spinach greening 
 to give it a green tint. 
 
 Albert Sauce: Prepare a Sauce Bernaise, but 
 substitute the tarragon with a few finely-chopped 
 leaves of green mint, and add a little finely- 
 grated horse-radish. 
 
 Albufera Sauce: Prepare a rich supreme sauce, 
 and flavor it with liquefied meat extract or glaze. 
 
 Allemande Sauce: 1% oz. butter, 1 oz. flour, 2 
 yolks of eggs, 1 tablespoonful of cream, 1 tea- 
 spoonful lemon juice, chicken stock, nutmeg, 
 salt, pepper. 
 
 Melt the butter in a stewpan, add the flour, 
 stir a few minutes without allowing it to brown, 
 dilute with rather more than a pint of chicken 
 stock, and stir until it boils. Season with pepper 
 and salt and grated nutmeg. Let it simmer for 
 half an hour, skim, and finish with liaison made 
 of the yolks of eggs, the cream, and l /o oz. of 
 fresh butter. Stir over the fire until the eggs 
 begin to set, but do not let it boil; add the lemon 
 juice, and pass through fine strainer or tammy 
 cloth. 
 
 American Sauce (Sauce Americaine) : Heat up 
 some tomato sauce and blend it with lobster 
 butter sufiicient to flavor and color, which must 
 be whisked in. 
 
 Anchovy Sauce (Sauce Anchois): 1 oz. butter, 
 % oz. flour, y 2 pint milk, *4 pint fish stock, 1 
 dessertspoonful anchovy essence. 
 
'36 THE BOOK OF SAUCES 
 
 Melt the butter in a stewpan, stir in the flour, 
 mix well and cook a little. Add by degrees the 
 milk and the fish stock. Stir till it boils, and 
 let cook for 10 minutes. Incorporate a small 
 dessertspoonful of anchovy essence, boil up again 
 and strain. 
 
 Another Way: Heat up half a pint of bechamel 
 or hollandaise sauce, and stir in one teaspoonful 
 of anchovy essence. 
 
 Anchovy Cream (Creme d'Anchois): Whip up 
 a gill of cream and add to it a tablespoonful of 
 anchovy essence, a teaspoonful of made mustard, 
 a pinch of paprika pepper, and if liked a few 
 drops of liquid carmine. When sufficiently 
 whipped put the cream into a sauceboat, and 
 serve with grilled or boiled fish such as salmon, 
 turbot or soles. 
 
 Anchovy Egg Sauce (Sauce anchois aux 
 oeuf s) : Melt 1 oz. of butter in a saucepan, stir 
 in 1 oz. of flour and cook without browning; 
 then add 1 teaspoonful of anchovy essence, half 
 a pint of boiling milk, and a similar quantity of 
 white stock; stir until the sauce is smooth. 
 Next add a fine-chopped hard-boiled egg, a pinch 
 of cayenne, and about 2 tablespoonfuls of cream. 
 
 Aspic Mayonnaise: % pint aspic jelly, 1 gill 
 stiff mayonnaise. 
 
 Dissolve the aspic and let it get partially cool, 
 then stir it gently into the mayonnaise and use 
 before it begins to set, according to direction. 
 
 Aspic a la Tomate (Tomato Aspic) : 1 pint as- 
 pic jelly, 4 small ripe tomatoes or % pint tomato 
 pulp, % oz. French leaf gelatine, 1 dessertspoon- 
 ful sherry. 
 
 Blanch and peel the tomatoes, rub through a 
 fine hair sieve, dissolve the gelatine, and add 
 to the pulp. Put the jelly, tomato pulp, and 
 sherry in a stew pan, boil up, skim well, and sim- 
 mer for a few minutes; pass all through a fine 
 hair sieve, and use as directed. 
 
 Aurora Sauce: 1 pint of bechamel sauce, 2 oz. 
 butter, 1 oz. lobster butter, y 2 gill cream, 1 
 dessertspoonful tarragon vinegar, cayenne. 
 
 Put the bechamel sauce in a stewpan, add the 
 
THE BOOK OF SAUCES 37 
 
 butter, a pinch of cayenne, cream, tarragon vine- 
 gar, and lobster butter. Stir well over boiling 
 water till hot, but without letting the sauce 
 boil. 
 
 Aurora Sauce (No. 2) : Mix a gill of bechamel 
 sauce with the juice of half a lemon, a table- 
 spoonful of mushroom liquor, and half a gill of 
 cream. Stir over the fire till it boils, then add 
 two hard-boiled egg-yolks rubbed through a sieve, 
 and finish with an ounce of lobster butter or 
 crayfish butter. 
 
 Avignonese Sauce (Sauce Avignonnaise) : This 
 consists of bechamel sauce enriched with yolks 
 of eggs and grated parmesan, to which is added 
 chopped parsley; a flavor of shallots or garlic 
 is liked by some, and incorporated accordingly. 
 
 Ayola Sauce: This consists of a mayonnaise 
 flavored with finely crushed garlic just sufficient 
 to taste, and lemon juice. 
 
 Batarde Sauce (Hot): This consists of Eng- 
 lish melted butter sauce enriched with chicken 
 veloutee and flavored with lemon juice. 
 
 Batarde Sauce (Cold) : Prepare a Bearnaise 
 sauce, flavor it with fish essence or fumet de 
 poisson enriched with tomato pure"e and anchovy 
 butter. 
 
 Bavaroise Sauce: Prepare a Hollandaise or 
 Dutch sauce, and stir in some whipped cream 
 and sufficient crayfish butter to flavor and color. 
 
 Bearnaise Sauce: % gill tarragon vinegar, 3 
 shallots finely chopped, 6 peppercorns, crushed, 4 
 yolks of eggs, 1 tablespoonful of white sauce, 
 4 oz. butter, 1 sprig thyme, meat glaze, and 
 lemon- juice. 
 
 Put the shallots, peppercorns and thyme with 
 the vinegar in a stewpan, cover and boil until 
 well reduced, remove the thyme, add the sauce 
 and a little dissolved meat glaze. Whisk in the 
 yolks of eggs, taking care not to let the sauce 
 boil, remove the stewpan from the fire, and work 
 in by degrees the butter. Only a little butter 
 must be added at a time, otherwise the sauce 
 will get oily. Strain through a pointed strainer 
 or tammy. A little finely chopped fresh tarragon 
 
38 THE BOOK OF SAUCES 
 
 and chervil, and a few drops of lemon-juice may 
 be added after the sauce is strained. 
 
 Bearnaise Sauce (Brune) : Prepare an ordinary 
 Bearnaise as above, with the addition of meat 
 glaze to give it a brown color. 
 
 Bearnaise Sauce (Tomatee): Same as above, 
 adding tomato puree in place of meat glaze. 
 
 Bechamel Sauce (White Sauce): Dissolve one 
 ounce of butter in a small stewpan, add one 
 ounce of flour; stir over the fire for a few min- 
 utes, just long enough to cook the flour, without 
 allowing it to brown. Stir in a pint of boiling 
 milk; add a small onion stuck with a clove, ten 
 white peppercorns, half a bay -leaf , a sliced carrot, 
 a pinch of salt, and a little grated nutmeg. Stir 
 until it boils, and allow to simmer for fifteen 
 minutes. Pass through a tammy cloth or nap- 
 kin, return to the stewpan, and finish with a 
 small piece of butter, and half a teaspoonful of 
 lemon juice. 
 
 Bechamel Sauce (another way) : 1% oz. flour, 
 2 oz. butter, 1 }4 pint of milk, and white meat 
 stock, 1 small onion or shallot, 1 small bouquet 
 garni, 10 peppercorns, % a bay-leaf, 1 small blade 
 of mace, seasoning. 
 
 Put the milk on to boil with the onion or 
 shallot (peeled) the bouquet, peppercorns, mace, 
 and bay-leaf. Melt the butter, stir in the flour 
 and cook a little without browning (or use white 
 roux) stir in the milk, etc., (hot), whisk over 
 the fire until it boils, and let simmer from fifteen 
 to twenty minutes. Take out the bouquet, rub 
 through a sieve or tammy, return to the stewpan, 
 season lightly with a pinch of nutmeg, half- 
 pinch of cayenne, and half a teaspoonful of salt. 
 The sauce is then ready for use. 
 
 Bechamel Sauce (Maigre): Proceed the same 
 as above directed, omitting the meat stock, and 
 using in its place milk and fish stock or milk and 
 vegetable stock or water. 
 
 Beef Marrow Sauce (Sauce Moelle de Boeuf ) : 
 Blend some Espagnole sauce with fried shallot, 
 and add blanched beef marrow previously cut in 
 thin slices, also some finely chopped parsley, a 
 
THE BOOK OF SAUCES 39 
 
 little chili vinegar and red pepper to taste. 
 Serve hot. 
 
 Beefsteak Sauce : Prepare a light brown sauce 
 of the demi-glace type to which chopped onion 
 and parsley have been added. Enrich this with 
 meat glaze and butter, and flavor with sherry 
 and lemon juice. 
 
 Bercy Sauce: Keduce iy 2 gills of fish stock to 
 about one-third its quantity, then add 1 chopped 
 shallot, previously tossed in butter, 1 glass white 
 wine, 1 teaspoonful of meat or fish glaze, and 
 reduce again, and add l /2 gill of veloute sauce, 
 and the juice of }4 lemon. Tammy and return 
 to the stewpan, finish with 1 oz. of herb butter 
 and serve. 
 
 NOTE: The herb butter is made with finely 
 chopped fennel, tarragon, chervil, and parsley, 
 and fresh butter. 
 
 Beurre-Noir Sauce (Black Butter Sauce) : 1% 
 oz. butter, 1 teaspoonful finely chopped parsley, 
 % teaspoonful vinegar. 
 
 Put the butter in an omelette pan, fry over a 
 quick fire until it acquires a nut-brown color, 
 then add the vinegar and parsley. Pour over the 
 article to be served. 
 
 Bigarade Sauce: Proceed the same as for or- 
 ange sauce, but substitute a Seville orange for 
 a sweet one. Use only half the rind, and boil 
 at least for ten minutes. Omit red-currant 
 jelly, and add a glass of port wine in its place. 
 
 Blanquette Sauce: This sauce is made the 
 same as Sauce Allemande, adding three table- 
 spoonfuls of cream instead of one. 
 
 Bohemian Sauce (Bohemienne Sauce) : Prepare 
 a white sauce with freshly-made breadcrumbs, 
 milk and white stock, stir in fresh butter and 
 finely grated horseradish to flavor, then season 
 with pepper and salt if needed. 
 
 Good Woman Sauce (Bonne Femme Sauce): 
 Chop finely one small peeled onion or 3 shallots, 
 blend this in butter in a saucepan, and add half 
 a pint of fish stock. Boil up and reduce with 
 half a pint of Bechamel sauce, then thicken with 
 2 egg-yolks, season to taste, and flavor with lemon 
 
40 THE BOOK OF SAUCES 
 
 juice; finish the sauce with a little whipped 
 cream. 
 
 Bonnefoy Sauce: This consists of a light, well 
 flavored bordelaise sauce (claret flavored brown 
 sauce), into which a little fresh butter, some 
 finely chopped parsley, and puree of beef marrow 
 have been incorporated. 
 
 Bordelaise Sauce: % pint espagnole or brown 
 sauce, 1 wineglassful red wine, 2 finely chopped 
 shallots, y 2 oz. meat glaze, 1 teaspoonful chopped 
 herbs (parsley, tarragon and chervil) a pinch 
 of sugar, salt and pepper. 
 
 Put the wine and shallots in a stewpan, re- 
 duce to half, add the sauce, and cook slowly for 
 twenty minutes. Take off the scum, add the 
 chopped herbs and meat glaze. Season with 
 sugar, salt and pepper. Give it one more boil, 
 and keep hot in the bain-marie until required. 
 
 Bordelaise Sauce (No. 2) : Put into a saucepan 
 a gill of claret, 4 finely chopped and peeled 
 shallots, a few peppercorns, a bayleaf, and a 
 sprig of thyme. Cover, and let it reduce to about 
 half its volume, then add % of a pint of 
 Espagnole or other rich brown sauce. Reduce a 
 little and strain into another saucepan. Stir or 
 whisk in a pat of fresh butter, and a large 
 tablespoonful of beef marrow, previously cut into 
 small dice and poached. The sauce is then ready. 
 
 NOTE: In most cases where Bordelaise sauce 
 is used, and especially so with beef, some thin, 
 round slices of beef marrow are blanched and put 
 on the meat before it is served, or else heated 
 up in the sauce. 
 
 Bordeaux Sauce: Peel and mince finely two 
 shallots, reduce with 1 gill of claret with y 2 a 
 teaspoonful of crushed white peppercorns, a 
 sprig of thyme, and a sprig of marjoram. When 
 about half reduced, add 1 gill of espagnole sauce, 
 and boil for 10 minutes, then strain, re-heat, and 
 whisk in 1 teaspoonful of anchovy or crayfish 
 butter. Season to taste, and use as directed. 
 
 Bread Sauce (Sauce au Pain): 4 oz. fresh 
 bread-crumbs, 1 small onion, 1 clove, 4 pepper- 
 corns, 1 pint of milk, y 2 oz. fresh butter, salt, 2 
 tablespoonfuls cream. 
 
THE BOOK OF SAUCES 41 
 
 Peel the onion, stick in it the clove, put the 
 onion and milk in a saucepan, boil up, add the 
 bread-crumbs and the peppercorns, cook for fif- 
 teen minutes. Remove the onions and pepper- 
 corns, stir in the cream and butter, season with 
 a pinch of salt, and keep hot until required for 
 serving. If liked the onion may be cooked 
 longer, passed through a sieve, and added to the 
 sauce; the cream can be omitted; if found too 
 thick, a little hot water can be added. Bread 
 sauce is usually served with roast fowl, turkey 
 and game birds. 
 
 Bread Sauce (No. 2) : Peel, slice and mince 
 very finely a small onion; simmer till quite soft 
 in a pint of milk; strain it over about 6 ounces 
 of stale bread, free from crust and broken up 
 small; let it soak for an hour, beat up with a 
 fork, and season with a little nutmeg or ground 
 mace, cayenne and salt. Lastly add an ounce of 
 butter and bring gradually to the boil, stirring 
 all the time. 
 
 Bread Sauce (No. 3) : Insert two cloves into a 
 small peeled onion, put it into a stewpan with 
 a pint of milk, and let it infuse over a gentle 
 heat for 30 minutes. Take out the onion, add 
 a small cup of breadcrumbs, and season to taste 
 with salt and pepper; boil gently for five min- 
 utes, stirring continually, then add half an ounce 
 of butter and a tablespoonful of cream; stir and 
 blend all thoroughly, then serve. 
 
 Bread Sauce (No. 4) : Put half a pint of milk 
 into a saucepan, to this add the crumb of a din- 
 ner roll and a small peeled onion; bring slowly 
 to the boil, stirring occasionally, and cook for 
 10 minutes. Take out the onion, add an ounce 
 of butter, and season to taste with salt and 
 cayenne and a grate of nutmeg. Beat up well 
 till quite smooth still over the fire, and then 
 serve. 
 
 Breton Sauce (Sauce Bretonne): Prepare a 
 pint of brown onion sauce in the usual way, blend 
 it with tomato sauce, and thicken with a little 
 haricot bean puree. 
 
 Brown Butter Sauce (Beurre Noir): Take 3 
 ounces of butter, one tablespoonful of minced 
 
42 THE BOOK OF SAUCES 
 
 parsley, a small dessertspoonful of flour, 3 table- 
 spoonfuls of vinegar, pepper and salt to taste. 
 Mix the butter, flour and parsley together, then 
 put this into a saucepan and stir until it is 
 melted, add salt and pepper to taste and lastly 
 the vinegar, and stir over a rather hot stove for 
 ten minutes. 
 
 Brown Fish Sauce (Sauce Brune pour Poisson) : 
 % Ib. fish bones, etc., 1% oz. butter, 1 dessert- 
 spoonful of flour, one tablespoonful English corn- 
 flour, 1 gill claret (optional), three-quarters 
 pint fish stock or water, 1 sliced onion, 1 small 
 bunch savory herbs (bouquet garni), 4 mush- 
 rooms, salt and pepper to taste. 
 
 Fry the fish-bones, etc., in the butter over a 
 quick fire, add the onion and fry also, stir in the 
 flour and cornflour, and let the flour get brown 
 whilst stirring; add the carrot, herbs, and mush- 
 rooms, and moisten with the claret and the 
 stock. Stir till it boils and let simmer for 
 twenty minutes. Pass through a tammy cloth 
 or fine sieve, season to taste, and serve. If liked 
 the mushrooms may be chopped finely and put 
 into the sauce at the last. 
 
 Cold Bulgarian Sauce No. 2 (Bulgare Sauce): 
 This can also be made with a cold tomato sauce, 
 blended with a little mayonnaise, with the addi- 
 tion of a little finely shredded or chopped cooked 
 celery. 
 
 Burgundy Sauce (Bourguignonne Sauce) : This 
 is a brown sauce composed of Espagnole sauce, 
 to which finely minced onions and parsley, re- 
 duced in Burgundy wine, flavored with thyme, 
 bay-leaf, cloves and mace, have been added. 
 Strain or tammy the sauce, season to taste and 
 serve hot. 
 
 Butter Sauce (Sauce au beurre): Put 1^ 
 ounces of butter into a stewpan, together with 
 a grate of nutmeg, and 2 saltspoonfuls of mig- 
 nonette pepper. When the butter is hot add 
 1 oz. of flour, and cook gently whilst stirring, 
 taking care that the flour does not brown. When 
 thoroughly cooked add not quite 1 pint of boil- 
 ing milk, stirring all the time until it forms the 
 consistency of ordinary white sauce; if strong 
 
THE BOOK OF SAUCES 43 
 
 flour is used it will take a little more moisture. 
 Eeduce a little, and then add gradually 4 to 6 
 ounces of fresh butter, stirring quickly during 
 this operation. Should the sauce appear to turn 
 oily, add a spoonful of cold water, flavor with a 
 little lemon juice and salt, and pass through 
 a tammy. This sauce can be used as foundation 
 for a number of sauces, but it should not be 
 made too long before it is required to be used. 
 
 Creamed Butter Sauce (Beurre Cremeuse 
 Sauce) : Beat or whisk 3 egg yolks and add 4 
 ozs. of butter, stir into it sufficient richly fla- 
 vored boiling stock. Stir over hot water till a 
 cream-like sauce is obtained. 
 
 Byron Sauce: Eeduce half a pint of demi- 
 glace sauce with a gill of claret, then add 2 finely 
 chopped truffles, and season to taste. 
 
 Calvllle Sauce: Strain the juice of a lemon 
 and an orange into a clean saucepan, to this add 
 4 tablespoonfuls of demi-glace or other well- 
 flavored thin brown sauce, a few drops of liquid 
 carmine, a pinch of paprika pepper, half an 
 ounce of meat glaze, and two finely chopped 
 peeled shallots; bring to the boil, skim, add a 
 wine-glass of dry port or Burgundy wine, and a 
 teaspoonful of castor sugar. Serve hot with 
 roast birds, such as teal, sarcelle, or wild duck. 
 
 Cambridge Sauce (excellent with Cold Meat or 
 Salad) : 4 eggs, 4 fillets of anchovies, 1 table- 
 spoonful of capers, 1 dessertspoonful French mus- 
 tard, 1 teaspoonful English mustard, 2 tablespoon- 
 fuls olive oil, 1 tablespoonful tarragon vinegar, 
 tarragon and chervil, cayenne, parsley or olives. 
 
 Pound in a mortar the hard-boiled yolks of 
 eggs, anchovies, capers, a sprig of tarragon and 
 chervil; then add French mustard, English mus- 
 tard, a pinch of cayenne pepper, and moisten 
 with the olive oil and tarragon vinegar. Rub 
 the whole through a fine tammy or hair sieve, 
 stir in a little more oil and vinegar, and work 
 to the desired consistency; keep it on the ice till 
 wanted, and add a little chopped parsley or olives 
 just before serving. No salt is needed, on ac- 
 count of the anchovies used in making this sauce. 
 
44 THE BOOK OF SAUCES 
 
 Cambridge Sauce (Cold) : To a pint of mayon- 
 naise sauce, add a tablespoonful of parsley 
 puree, a dessertspoonful of finely chopped capers, 
 and a teaspoonful of anchovy paste. Mix well, 
 and flavor with a little made mustard. 
 
 Canopere Sauce: This consists of a hot fish 
 sauce made with fish, court-bouillon and blond 
 roux, enriched with sufficient crayfish butter to 
 flavor and color. 
 
 Caper Sauce (Sauce aux Capres): % pint 
 melted butter sauce, 1 tablespoonful capers, % 
 tablespoonful vinegar. 
 
 Mix with the melted butter sauce a table- 
 spoonful of capers and the vinegar. Boil up and 
 serve with boiled fish, mutton, etc. 
 
 Brown Caper Sauce (Sauce aux Capres brune) : 
 A brown sauce, espagnole or demi-glace contain- 
 ing coarsely chopped capers, seasoned with nut- 
 meg and black pepper. 
 
 Cardinal Sauce: % pint veloutee or bechamel 
 sauce, 1 oz. butter, juice of % lemon, % oz. 
 lobster coral or one oz. lobster butter, one 
 dessertspoonful meat glaze, % gill mushroom 
 liquor, salt, pepper, nutmeg. 
 
 Eeduce the sauce with the mushroom liquor, 
 season with salt, pepper, and a grate of nutmeg; 
 add the lemon-juice, and whisk in the butter and 
 lobster butter or coral, the latter finely chopped. 
 Strain or tammy. Eeturn to the stewpan and 
 add the meat glaze, stir till smooth, and keep hot 
 in the bain-marie till required. 
 
 NOTE: When this sauce is required for 
 maigre dishes use bechamel maigre sauce in place 
 of veloutee. Omit the meat glaze and add in its 
 place ^4 gill of cream. 
 
 Celery Sauce: Trim and wash the white part 
 of a large head of celery, peel a good-sized onion, 
 cut both up small and boil in salted water till 
 tender, drain, and chop very finely. Rub the 
 yolks of two hard-boiled eggs through a sieve, 
 and mix with half a teacupful of cream and a 
 little white stock, add the celery and onion, and 
 a teaspoonful of chilli vinegar. Season to taste 
 with salt and pepper and serve hot or cold. 
 
THE BOOK OF SAUCES 45 
 
 Celery Cream Sauce (Creme de Celeri): 1 
 small head of celery, 1 pint milk, 1 oz. butter, 
 1 oz. flour, a little cream, salt, pepper, and 
 nutmeg. 
 
 Eemove the best part of the celery, wash well, 
 blanch it, drain and steep in cold water; cut the 
 celery into small pieces, put in a stewpan with 
 the milk, diluted with a little cold stock, add 
 some salt, boil up, skim, and cook till tender. 
 Meanwhile prepare a white roux, i. e. dissolve 
 the butter in a stewpan, add the flour, and stir 
 over the fire until the latter is cooked without 
 browning; then add gradually the celery and 
 stock, let boil a little longer, pass through a 
 tammy cloth, return to the stewpan. Season to 
 taste with salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Stir over 
 the fire until it boils, then add a little cream, and 
 keep in the bain-marie until required. 
 
 Champagne Sauce: % pint of espagnole sauce, 
 1 glass of champagne, 2 cloves, 6 peppercorns, 
 1 bay-leaf. 
 
 Put the cloves, peppercorns, bay-leaf, and 
 espagnole sauce into a stewpan on the fire; let 
 it reduce a little, add the champagne, and the 
 essence remaining from the braised ham. Reduce 
 the whole for ten minutes, or longer if found 
 too thin. Strain through a pointed strainer and 
 serve with braised ham. 
 
 White Mushroom Sauce (Sauce Champignons, 
 Blanche): iy 2 gill bechamel sauce, 1% gill 
 white stock, 10 mushrooms, 1 dessertspoonful 
 lemon-juice, white wine, 1 tablespoonful cream. 
 
 Boil together the bechamel sauce and the veal 
 stock (or other white stock), and reduce to about 
 half its original quantity. Skim well and add the 
 preserved mushrooms cut into slices, 1 tablespoon- 
 ful of mushroom liquor, lemon-juice, and about 
 half a gill of Chablis or other white wine. Let 
 the whole boil, season to taste, then add one 
 tablespoonful of cream, and serve. 
 
 Brown Mushroom Sauce (Sauce Champignons, 
 forune) : % pint demi-glace sauce, 1 glass sherry, 
 and 10 champignons (preserved mushrooms). 
 
 Chop finely the preserved mushrooms (cham- 
 pignons), put them in a small stewpan with a 
 
46 THE BOOK OF SAUCES 
 
 little of the liquor and the sherry, cover and 
 allow to reduce well. Now add the demi-glace or 
 thin espagnole sauce; boil up, skim, season to 
 taste, and use as required. 
 
 Chasseur Sauce: % pint Madere sauce, % gill 
 game liquor (fumet), lemon-juice, and 1 to 2 
 livers of game. 
 
 Chop the liver finely and cook with the sauce 
 and liquor of game for about ten minutes, season 
 to taste, add a teaspoonful of lemon-juice and 
 serve. 
 
 Cliasseur Royal Sauce: 1 small onion, bay-leaf, 
 parsley, thyme, marjoram, 10 peppercorns, 1 glass 
 port wine, */!> pint espagnole sauce, 1 teaspoonful 
 anchovy essence, y 2 gill of double cream. 
 
 Chop the bones of the fish used, and put in a 
 stewpan with the trimmings of the oysters, the 
 sliced onion, bay-leaf, sprig of parsley and thyme, 
 and a sprig of marjoram. 
 
 Moisten with the port wine, let it reduce to 
 half the original quantity. Keep well covered 
 during the process. Now add the crushed pep- 
 percorns, anchovy essence, and espagnole sauce, 
 or 1 gill of brown stock. Simmer for twenty 
 minutes, remove the scum, and pass through a 
 tammy cloth or very fine pointed strainer. Re- 
 turn to the stewpan, add a little seasoning if 
 needed, and finish with % gill of double cream. 
 Keep very hot, but not boiling, and use as 
 directed. 
 
 Chateaubriand Sauce (also called Crapaudine 
 Sauce) : 1 gill Chablis or Sauterne wine, 2 
 cloves, 1 sprig of thyme, 2 shallots, 12 pepper- 
 corns, about 1% gill meat glaze, the juice of y 2 
 lemon, 2 oz. butter, and % teaspoonful chopped 
 tarragon. 
 
 Peel and chop the shallots, put them with the 
 wine, cloves, thyme, and crushed peppercorns in 
 a small stewpan, cover and reduce to half its 
 quantity, strain into another stewpan, add the 
 lemon-juice. Work in the meat glaze and butter 
 bit by bit (keep the stewpan in the bain-marie), 
 add the tarragon last of all. Whisk well, and 
 serve very hot with fillet steak, Chateaubriand, 
 etc. 
 
THE BOOK OF SAUCES 47 
 
 Chaud-froid Sauce, Blanche (White Chaud- 
 froid Sauce) : % pint bechamel or supreme 
 sauce, 1 gill aspic, 5 or 6 leaves French gelatine, 
 1 gill cream, 1 teaspoonful chili vinegar or lemon- 
 juice. 
 
 Dissolve the gelatine along with the aspic jelly, 
 warm up the sauce, and mix the two together. 
 Stir over the fire until it boils, put in vinegar 
 or lemon-juice, and cook for a few minutes. 
 Strain or tammy; add the cream when cooling, 
 and use as required. 
 
 Chaud-froid Sauce, Blonde (Fawn Chaud-froid 
 Sauce): y 2 pint aspic jelly, 1 gill allemande 
 sauce, 1/2 gill cream, 1 tablespoonful espagnole 
 sauce, y% oz. French leaf gelatine, a glass of 
 Madeira wine, pepper and salt. 
 
 Melt the aspic jelly in a stewpan, add the wine, 
 espagnole, and allemande sauce, let it come to a 
 boil, and skim. Soak the gelatine in cold water, 
 squeeze it well, and put with the sauce; when dis- 
 solved, stir in the cream, pass through a tammy 
 cloth or fine strainer, and use as directed. 
 
 Chaud-froid Sauce, Brune (Brown Chaud-froid 
 Sauce) : y pint espagnole or salmi sauce, 1 glass 
 Madeira or sherry, % pint aspic, 4 leaves French 
 gelatine, and cream. 
 
 Boil up the sauce. Dissolve the gelatine with 
 the aspic, mix both together, add the wine, let 
 simmer for a few minutes, and pass through a 
 tammy cloth, add a little cream, and flavor to 
 taste. 
 
 Chaud-froid Sauce, Green or Pink: Prepare a 
 white chaud-froid sauce, to which add a few 
 drops of spinach greening to give it a green tint, 
 or a few drops of liquid carmine or cochineal 
 to give it a rose or pink tint. 
 
 Chestnut Sauce (Savoury): Par-roast % a 
 pound of previously slit chestnuts, and remove 
 the outer skin, then put them in a saucepan of 
 boiling water, and cook until the inner skins can 
 be easily removed. When this is done, stew 
 the chestnuts in seasoned milk till tender, then 
 rub through a sieve. Season to taste with salt 
 and pepper, and dilute the puree with a little 
 rich gravy; reheat, and serve with roast turkey, 
 
48 THE BOOK OF SAUCES 
 
 or as a sauce with grilled and devilled legs of 
 a cold roast bird. 
 
 Chestnut Sauce (Savoury or Sweet): Slit a 
 dozen chestnuts and boil them in water, then 
 drain and remove both shell and skin from the 
 chestnuts. Next put them in a saucepan with 
 a glass of claret, and a gill of water, cover, and 
 cook till tender, then rub through a sieve. Ee- 
 heat the puree with enough seasoned stock to 
 form a sauce, season with a pinch of cayenne 
 and a grate of nutmeg. 
 
 Note: If the sauce is required sweet, use 
 syrup in place of stock, and omit the cayenne. 
 
 Venison Sauce (Chevreuil Sauce): y 2 pint 
 espagnole sauce, 1 glass port wine, 1 dessert- 
 spoonful red-currant jelly, 1 oz. lean ham, 1 oz. 
 butter, % gill vinegar, 1 small onion, 12 pepper- 
 corns, 1 bay-leaf, ^ small carrot, thyme, parsley. 
 
 Mince finely the onion and ham, fry these in 
 the butter, and add the vinegar, crushed pepper- 
 corns, bay -leaf, minced carrot, and a little thyme 
 and chopped parsley. Cover and boil for ten 
 minutes. Then add the espagnole sauce, port 
 wine, and the red-currant jelly. Cook for ten 
 minutes, skim and strain, season to taste, re-heat, 
 and use as required. 
 
 Chutney Sauce: Make a sauce the same as 
 directed for venison sauce, omitting the red cur- 
 rant jelly, and adding instead one heaped-up 
 tablespoonful of mango chutney, which must be 
 chopped up rather finely. 
 
 Brown Herb Sauce (Colbert Sauce aux Fines 
 Herbes). iy 2 gill espagnole sauce, 1 glass of 
 Madeira wine, 1 tablespoonful of meat glaze, 
 1% oz. of fresh butter, 1 teaspoonful lemon-juice, 
 chopped parsley, tarragon, and chervil one des- 
 sertspoonful in all. 
 
 Put the sauce into a small stewpan, stir over 
 the fire until hot, add the wine, and let boil a 
 few minutes. Remove to the side of the stove, 
 and stir in 'gradually the butter and the meat 
 glaze. Beat up with a small whisk, but do not 
 let it boil again. Last of all add the lemon-juice 
 and the chopped herbs. Serve as directed. If 
 
THE BOOK OF SAUCES 49 
 
 desired richer, % oz. more butter may be added 
 in the manner described. 
 
 Cream Sauce (Sauce a la Creme): Put into a 
 saucepan the yolks of two eggs, 3 tablespoonfuls 
 of cream, 2 tablespoonfuls of veloute or other 
 rich white sauce, and whisk in half an ounce of 
 fresh butter; season with a pinch of salt and 
 paprika pepper, and lastly add a teaspoonful of 
 lemon juice. Stir or whisk, and cook in a bain 
 marie till it becomes of a creamlike consistency. 
 
 Aspic or Savory Cream (Creme a r Aspic): 
 % gill bechamel or allemande sauce, 1 teaspoon- 
 ful tarragon vinegar, y 2 pint aspic jelly, 1 gill 
 double cream, cayenne, mignonette pepper. 
 
 Warm up the bechamel or allemande sauce, 
 add the tarragon vinegar, stir this into the liquid 
 aspic jelly, mix with it the cream, season with a 
 pinch of cayenne and mignonette pepper. Pass 
 through a sieve or tammy cloth, and use as 
 directed. 
 
 Cold Cucumber Sauce (Sauce aux Concombres) : 
 % cucumber, % gill bechamel sauce, y 2 gill 
 cream, 1 gill mayonnaise sauce, salt, pepper to 
 taste, spinach greening. 
 
 Peel thinly the cucumber and cut into small 
 pieces, boil in salted water till tender, and rub 
 through a hair sieve. Eeturn the pulp to the 
 stewpan, add the bechamel sauce; let it reduce 
 to about half the original quantity, and let it 
 cool. Whip the cream until stiff; work in the 
 mayonnaise sauce, and mix slowly with the re- 
 duced cold sauce, add a little salt and pepper 
 if needed, also a few drops of spinach greening. 
 The sauce is then ready for use. 
 
 Cucumber Sauce Na. 2 (Sauce aux Concom- 
 bres) : Peel a small or half a large cucumber, 
 cut it into pieces, and boil till tender in salted 
 water or white stock. Drain well, and rub it 
 through a fine sieve. Put the pulp into a small 
 stewpan, and let reduce to half its quantity with 
 a gill of Bechamel sauce; season to taste, strain 
 again, and add to it % tablespoonful of Mayon- 
 naise sauce, into this stir the cold cucumber 
 puree, and place on the ice. Whip up y 2 gill of 
 cream. The sauce is then ready for serving. 
 
50 THE BOOK OF SAUCES 
 
 Cucumber Sauce, Hot (Sauce aux Concombres,- 
 chaude) is made in the same way, by omitting 
 the mayonnaise and adding an extra quantity of 
 hot bechamel sauce. Cook for ten minutes before 
 serving. 
 
 Crab Sauce: Eemove the meat from a crab 
 and shred it finely, then season with salt and 
 paprika pepper. Put it in a saucepan containing 
 a pint of melted butter sauce, and let it simmer 
 for ten minutes. Serve hot. 
 
 Cranberry Sauce: Wash and drain half a pint 
 of cranberries, and cook them in a stewpan with 
 half a pint of water and one ounce of castor 
 sugar; when sufficiently tender, pass them 
 through a fine sieve, then mix with the pure"e a 
 gill of cooked apple pulp, season to taste, and 
 use when cold. 
 
 Cumberland Sauce (a Cold Game Sauce): 2 
 shallots, 1 orange, 1 lemon, 1 dessertspoonful mus- 
 tard, % gill port wine, ground ginger, 2 table- 
 spoonfuls red-currant jelly, 2 tablespoonfuls 
 vinegar, salt^ pepper, cayenne. 
 
 Mince the shallots, put them in a stewpan with, 
 the thin rinds of the lemon and orange cut into 
 fine Julienne strips. Add half a gill of water 
 and cook for ten minutes, then strain and return 
 to the stewpan, adding the mixed mustard, port 
 wine, a pinch of ground ginger, red-currant jelly, 
 the juice of the lemon and orange, and the vine- 
 gar. Season with salt, pepper, and a pinch of 
 cayenne, boil up, strain, and serve cold with any 
 kind of game or ducks. A gill of espagnole sauce 
 added improves this sauce. 
 
 Cumberland Sauce No. 2: Cut very thinly the 
 outer rind of an orange, then cut the strips into 
 fine shreds. Put them into a small earthenware 
 saucepan (casserole), pour over half- a glass of 
 dry port wine, and place on the side of the stove 
 to get warm, then allow to cool and stir in 
 about a teaspoonful of mixed English mustard, a 
 good pinch of salt, and the strained juice of 
 the orange. Next melt about 2 ounces of red 
 currant jelly and stir into the above. A very 
 small quantity of spice such as cayenne or 
 
THE BOOK OF SAUCES 51 
 
 paprika pepper may be added if liked. This is 
 considered essential by many chefs. 
 
 Currie Sauce: Prepare the following: Peel 1 
 onion, scrape finely 1 small carrot, peel 1 small 
 apple and chop all up very small. Fry these in 
 a saucepan with 1 ounce of butter, then add 1 
 tablespoonful of curry powder and half a pint 
 of tomato puree or sauce. Season to taste with 
 salt and pepper, then add a good ladle of 
 espagnole sauce. Boil for several minutes, pass 
 through a fine strainer, then add a little chopped 
 gherkin and some finely chopped parsley. 
 
 Curry Sauce: Peel and slice a small onion, 
 scrape and slice a small carrot, fry both together 
 in half an ounce of butter; when the onion has 
 acquired a light brown color, add one table- 
 spoonful of mild curry powder and stir for a few 
 seconds. Next add a small peeled and chopped 
 apple, moisten with half a gill of tomato pulp 
 and a gill of brown sauce. Allow to boil for a 
 few minutes. Season to taste, and pass it 
 through a fine strainer. Reheat and stir in last 
 of all a finely chopped pickled gherkin. 
 
 Danish Sauce (Sauce Danoise) : 2 oz. butter, 
 1 oz. flour, 1 glass sherry, ^ gill Chablis or 
 Sauterne, 1 pint fish stock, ^ oz. grated Parme- 
 san, 2 teaspoonfuls meat glaze, 1 teaspoonful 
 anchovy essence, 1 gill cream, ^ oz. lobster 
 coral, salt and pepper. 
 
 Melt the butter in a stewpan, stir in the flour, 
 let it cook a few minutes without taking color. 
 Moisten with the wine and fish stock. Stir 
 until it boils, then add the anchovy essence, meat 
 glaze, and grated cheese. Season to taste with 
 pepper and salt, let simmer gently for a few 
 minutes, skim and pass through a fine sieve. 
 Eeturn to a clean stewpan and bring to a boil. 
 Work in the cream and lobster coral or lobster 
 butter. Keep hot, but do not let it boil again. 
 Serve with dressed fish salmon, turbot, soles, or 
 lobster. 
 
 Demi-Glace Sauce (Half Glaze Sauce): % 
 
 pint espagnole sauce, 1^4 gill good gravy, pepper. 
 
 Reduce to a half-glaze espagnole sauce with 
 
52 THE BOOK OF SAUCES 
 
 the gravy from roast veal or beef (strained and 
 free from fat); allow to simmer about fifteen 
 minutes, and season with, a pinch of pepper. 
 
 Devilled Sauce (Sauce Diable) : % pint demi- 
 glace sauce, 1 tablespoonful mixed mustard, 1 
 dessertspoonful Worcester sauce, % oz. butter, 
 2 finely minced shallots, cayenne, parsley. 
 
 Fry the shallots in the butter to a golden 
 color, add the demi-glace sauce, mixed mustard, 
 Worcestershire sauce, and a good pinch of cay- 
 enne. Stir until it boils, skim and pass through 
 a fine strainer, add a teaspoonful of finely 
 chopped parsley, and serve. 
 
 Duchesse Sauce: Take half a pint of richly 
 seasoned meat gravy, thicken it with half an 
 ounce of arrowroot, mixed previously with a 
 little cold water or stocK, then add 1 tablespoon- 
 ful of liquid meat glaze, and a wineglassful of 
 dry white wine and a teaspoonful of red currant 
 jelly. Boil up, simmer for a few minutes, and 
 serve. 
 
 Prawn Sauce (Sauce aux Ecrevisses): Pro- 
 ceed the same as for sauce Cardinal and include 
 12 prawns ' heads, which must be cut in quarters 
 and placed into the sauce a few minutes before 
 serving. 
 
 Crayfish Sauce (Ecrevisse Sauce) : Mix half a 
 pint of Bechamel sauce with a gill of small 
 peeled crayfish tails, and finish the sauce with a 
 little crayfish butter as liaison. 
 
 Echalote Sauce (Shallot Sauce): Prepare a 
 brown gravy or demi-glace sauce, add to it some 
 finely minced shallots previously blended in but- 
 ter, some lemon juice to flavor, and finely 
 chopped parsley. 
 
 Epicurienne Sauce: 1 small cucumber, 1 gill 
 mayonnaise, % gill cream, 1 tablespoonful tar- 
 ragon vinegar, 14 gill aspic jelly, 1 teaspoonful 
 anchovy essence, 1 dessertspoonful chopped 
 gherkins, 1 dessertspoonful chutney, pepper, salt, 
 sugar. 
 
 Peel the cucumber, cut it into small pieces, 
 cook till tender in salted water, strain and rub 
 through a fine hair sieve. When cold, stir this 
 
THE BOOK OF SAUCES 53 
 
 puree gradually into the mayonnaise sauce, add 
 the cream, aspic, anchovy essence, the vinegar, 
 and chutney (the latter should previously be 
 rubbed through a sieve) ; season with pepper 
 and salt and a small pinch of castor sugar; add 
 the chopped gherkins and a few drops of spinach 
 greening to give it a greenish tint. This sauce is 
 especially suitable for asparagus, artichokes, or 
 boiled fish. 
 
 Epicure Sauce (Epicurean Sauce): This is a 
 white fish sauce consisting of a rich white sauce, 
 mixed with a little essence of crayfish, finely 
 chopped truffles, chilli vinegar, and cayenne pep- 
 per to taste. 
 
 Espagnole Sauce (Spanish Sauce): 3 quarts 
 
 of rich stock, 4 oz. lean veal, 1 bouquet garni, 
 12 peppercorns, 4 oz. butter, 4 oz. flour (sifted), 
 4 oz. raw ham or lean bacon, 1 carrot, 1 onion, 
 
 2 cloves, % pint tomato pulp, 1 gill claret, 1 
 glass sherry, some mushrooms (fresh or pre- 
 served). 
 
 This is the chief brown foundation sauce it 
 forms the basis for a large number of other 
 sauces. It is advisable that particular care and 
 attention be paid to the preparation of this im- 
 portant sauce. The ingredients given will pro- 
 duce about half a gallon of sauce. A smaller 
 quantity can be prepared by reducing the quan- 
 tities in proportion. It is, however, advisable 
 to have at all times an ample supply of this 
 sauce. 
 
 Wash and peel the carrot, turnip, and onion, 
 cut up small and put in a stewpan with the 
 bouquet, peppercorns, cloves, and the veal and 
 ham, both cut into pieces. Add an ounce of 
 butter, and stir over the fire until of a nice 
 light brown color; this forms a true mirepoix. 
 Pour off the fat, moisten the mirepoix with the 
 stock, claret, sherry, and tomato pulp, boil 
 gently for about an hour. Skim occasionally. 
 Meanwhile, prepare a brown roux by melting 
 
 3 oz. of butter in a stewpan, stir in the flour, 
 and cook very slowly over a moderate fire, 
 stirring all the while with a wooden spoon until 
 it acquires a chestnut-brown color; or place the 
 
54 THE BOOK OF SAUCES 
 
 stewpan in the oven and let it cook, stirring 
 from time to time to prevent it from burning, 
 and to blend the flour better. Allow the roux 
 to cool a little, pour in gradually the prepared 
 stock, etc., stir over the fire until it boils, let 
 simmer slowly for another hour, skim well, and 
 pass through a tammy cloth or fine sieve. If 
 found too thick, add a little more stock. To 
 prevent a thick crust forming on the top of the 
 sauce, stir occasionally until quite cool. Keep 
 the sauce in a stone vessel or pan until wanted. 
 Be sure and boil up the sauce each day if not 
 used at one time, adding a little 'stock if 
 necessary. 
 
 Essence de Gibier Sauce: This is a brown 
 sauce (demi-glace or Madere) enriched with 
 essence of game. 
 
 Tarragon Sauce (Sauce a 1'Estragon) : This is 
 a thin brown sauce of the demi-glace type fla- 
 vored with tarragon leaves. It is usually served 
 with poultry or quenelles. 
 
 Farmhouse Sauce (Sauce Fermiere): Take 
 half a pint of Espagnole sauce, blend it with 
 finely chopped ham, chopped parsley and capers. 
 This sauce is usually served with game. 
 
 Fennel Sauce (Sauce Fenouil): To a pint of 
 well-reduced white sauce (Bechamel or Dutch 
 sauce), add some finely chopped fennel. Mix it 
 well and serve with boiled fish. 
 
 Flemish Sauce (Sauce Flamande) : Prepare a 
 Dutch sauce flavored with fish stock, then thicken 
 it with yolks of eggs as liaison, and flavor it 
 with a little prepared mustard. 
 
 Fleurette Sauce: This is a white sauce, served 
 with fish or vegetables, made with the usual pro- 
 portions of flour, butter and fleurette (which is 
 the name applied to the first skimming of milk 
 which is rather sweet); season the sauce with 
 salt and pepper to taste. 
 
 Finangiere Sauce: Prepare a rich brown sauce, 
 reduce with sherry or Marsala and mushroom 
 liquor, and enrich it with liquefied meat extract. 
 Thinly sliced truffles, small mushrooms and 
 cock's-combs are added when the sauce is ready 
 for serving. 
 
THE BOOK OF SAUCES 55 
 
 Game Sauce (Sauce Gibier) : Some game bones 
 and trimmings, 1 pint espagnole or brown sauce, 
 y 2 gill sherry, onion, carrot, turnip, parsley, 
 thyme, marjoram, bay-leaf, mace, clove. 
 
 The trimmings, carcasses, etc., of any kind of. 
 game may be used for this sauce; those of grouse 
 or woodcock are preferable. Chop small the 
 trimmings of game, put them in a stewpan with 
 a small onion, a piece of carrot, and a piece of 
 turnip all cut in slices, a few sprigs of parsley, 
 a sprig of thyme, one of marjoram, a bay-leaf, a 
 small piece of mace, and one clove, moisten with 
 the sherry, cover and put on the fire to cook for 
 five minutes. Now add the espagnole or brown 
 sauce, let it come quickly to a boil, and keep 
 simmering for fifteen minutes longer. Pass 
 through a tammy cloth, return to a clean stew- 
 pan, season with a little salt if necessary, and 
 keep hot in the bain-marie until required for 
 serving. 
 
 Garibaldi Sauce: Prepare a Genoise sauce 
 made with meat or fish basis, flavor it with a 
 suspicion of pounded garlic and curry powder, 
 finely chopped capers, and anchovy essence or 
 paste to which a little chili vinegar should be 
 added, just enough to flavor. Careful blending 
 of the above named flavoring ingredients is es- 
 sential when making this sauce. 
 
 Generate Sauce: This is a rich brown sauce 
 made with a basis of Demi-glace or Madere 
 which is reduced with a small quantity of lemon 
 juice and tarragon vinegar. A little finely 
 shredded orange rind, previously reduced in 
 some sherry, is then added. The sauce is fla- 
 vored with very little garlic or shallot, bay leaf, 
 clove and mace. Careful blending of the flavor- 
 ing ingredients is most essential for this sauce. 
 
 Genoise Sauce: Melt an ounce of butter in a 
 stewpan, and fry in it a sliced onion, a shallot, 
 half a clove of garlic and a small bouquet garni, 
 add a glass of Burgundy, and let simmer until 
 the onions are done, then add a pint of 
 Espagnole sauce, and let simmer gently for ten 
 minutes. Strain through a fine sieve or tammy, 
 add a pinch of mignonette pepper, and a tea- 
 
56 THE BOOK OF SAUCES 
 
 spoonful of anchovy essence, and use as directed. 
 
 Genoise Sauce: No. 2. Prepare a mirepoix 
 of 1 carrot, % stick of celery, 1 onion, 2 fresh 
 mushrooms, and 2 ozs. bacon, all cut into dice. 
 Melt 1 oz. of butter in a stewpan, add the 
 above mirepoix, also one bay leaf and a few 
 peppercorns, and fry for five minutes over a 
 brisk fire. Add one tablespoonful of flour, stir 
 till it acquires a nut-brown color. Moisten with 
 one glass of Burgundy wine and y% pint of fish 
 stock. Boil up and simmer for half an hour. 
 Strain, and season to taste. Ee-heat and serve 
 as required for fish. 
 
 Genoise Sauce (Rich Brown Fish Sauce): 1 
 sliced onion, 1 shallot, % clove of garlic, 1 oz. 
 butter, small bouquet garni, 1 teaspoonful an- 
 chovy essence, 1 glass red wine (Burgundy), 1 
 pint espagnole sauce (made from fish stock if 
 desired), a pinch of mignonette pepper. 
 
 Melt the butter in a stewpan, and fry onion, 
 shallot, garlic, and bouquet, add the wine, let 
 simmer until the onions are done, then add the 
 sauce, and let simmer gently for ten minutes. 
 Strain through a fine sieve or tammy, add the 
 pepper and anchovy essence, and use as required. 
 
 Giblet Sauce: Boil some previously washed 
 giblets in seasoned water with an onion. When 
 done, strain, take up the giblet and onion, and 
 chop both finely. Put this puree into a saucepan 
 with a piece of butter, add the strained stock and 
 gravy and a small glass of claret; season with 
 aromatics and salt. Simmer slowly for about ten 
 minutes longer, then blend with a little rich 
 brown sauce or roux, re-heat, and serve hot. 
 
 Gooseberry Sauce (Sauce aux groseilles vertes) : 
 Put half a pound of green gooseberries in a 
 saucepan with a very little water, and cook till 
 soft, then mash them, grate in a little nutmeg, 
 and sweeten with castor sugar to taste. Pass 
 through a sieve and finish with an ounce of 
 butter. Serve with roast pork or roast goose; 
 it is also sometimes served with boiled mackerel. 
 A little spinach greening may be added to the 
 sauce if liked. 
 
 Gouffe Sauce: Eequired: 1 gill cream, % gill 
 
THE BOOK OP SAUCES 57 
 
 wine vinegar, 3 yolks of eggs, 1 bay-leaf, 6 
 crushed peppercorns, salt, 2 oz. butter, 2 table- 
 spoonfuls of cream, 1 tablespoonful chopped lob- 
 ster meat. 
 
 Put the vinegar, bay-leaf, and peppercorns in 
 a stewpan (covered) ; let it reduce a little. Add 
 the yolks of eggs and stir over the fire until the 
 sauce begins to thicken, then remove and put in 
 a saucepan containing boiling water, or in the 
 bain-marie. Work in the butter a little at a 
 time, also the cream, stir vigorously with a small 
 whisk. Pass through a fine strainer or tammy 
 cloth, return to a clean stewpan, add the chopped 
 lobster and a pinch of salt, stir again, place a 
 few bits of butter on top, and keep hot until 
 required for serving. 
 
 Granville Sauce: Prepare a white wine fish 
 sauce or other rich white sauce, to which add 
 some finely chopped preserved mushrooms (cham- 
 pignons), also a few picked shrimps and finely 
 chopped truffles. 
 
 Gravy Without Meat: Cut up into thin slices 
 half a peeled onion and a small scraped carrot, 
 fry both in half an ounce of butter or dripping; 
 when nicely browned add half a pint of water, 
 and a teaspoonful of Marmite or Savoy extract. 
 Boil up, season with salt and pepper, and cook 
 for ten minutes. Skim well, then strain and serve 
 as required. 
 
 See also Jus-Gravy. 
 
 Green Mousseline Sauce (Sauce Mousseline 
 verte) : To half a pint of mayonnaise add a 
 tablespoonful of savory herb puree prepared as 
 follows: Blanch a handful of parsley, tarragon, 
 chervil, and a little fennel, drain, and pound in 
 a mortar with 2 peeled and chopped shallots, a 
 teaspoonful of capers, 2 gherkins, 2 filletted 
 anchovies, 1 hard-boiled yolk of egg, and a 
 tablespoonful of salad oil. Eub through a fine 
 sieve, mix a tablespoonful of tarragon vinegar 
 with half a gill of aspic jelly, whisk all to- 
 gether till frothlike, then stir it into the pre- 
 pared mayonnaise. 
 
 Gribiche Sauce: Take half a pint of Mayon- 
 naise sauce, and add sufficient mixed mustard to 
 
58 THE BOOK OF SAUCES 
 
 flavor, then stir in some finely chopped fresh 
 savory herbs (fines herbes) and serve. 
 
 Hachis Sauce: Mix some well reduced brown 
 sauce with a little rich gravy from roast meat, 
 then add finely chopped mushrooms (cham- 
 pignons), also chopped gherkins and capers in 
 due proportion. Cook a little and serve. 
 
 Ham Sauce (Jambon Sauce): Prepare a rich 
 brown sauce, and mix it with finely shredded, 
 grated, or chopped ham, chopped chives, shallots, 
 and parsley, previously blended in butter, then 
 flavor with lemon juice and the necessary sea- 
 soning. Boil up and serve hot. 
 
 Hessoise Sauce: Prepare a good horse-radish 
 sauce with grated horse-radish, sour cream, and 
 fresh breadcrumbs (previously soaked in milk); 
 season to taste with castor sugar, white pepper, 
 and salt. This sauce is usually served hot. 
 
 Hollandaise Sauce (Dutch Sauce): Crush 
 about a dozen peppercorns, put them in a sauce- 
 pan with 2 tablespoonfuls of French wine vine- 
 gar and 4 tablespoonfuls of water. Cover the 
 pan and place it on the fire, boil fast to confuse 
 the contents of the pan. It should be reduced 
 to about one-half its volume. Stir or whisk in 
 4 yolks of eggs, then by degrees whisk in 4 to 6 
 oz. of fresh butter, and lastly add about a gill of 
 hot water. Season with salt and the juice of % 
 a lemon. Pass the sauce through a fine tammy 
 cloth. Eeturn it to a clean saucepan, which must 
 stand in a pan of hot (not boiling) water. Keep 
 it thus till required for table. 
 
 Dutch Sauce (Hollandaise) : Take 4 eggs, 4 oz. 
 butter, 4 tablespoonfuls of water, 4 tablespoonfuls 
 of tarragon vinegar, 1 dessertspoonful of flour, 
 and the juice of half a lemon. Mix the butter and 
 the flour together into a paste, put this into a 
 saucepan with the vinegar and water, stir for 
 a few minutes, then add the beaten yolks of the 
 four eggs. Whisk until the mixture thickens or 
 binds, but on no account allow it to boil. When 
 ready to serve add the strained juice of half a 
 lemon. Green Dutch sauce is made by adding a 
 little spinach greening, just sufficient to give it 
 a sage green tint. 
 
THE BOOK OP SAUCES 59 
 
 Dutch Sauce (Hollandaise Sauce) No. 2: Be- 
 quired: 3 yolks of eggs, 2 oz. butter, 1 gill 
 bechamel sauce, 1 gill stock, the juice of half a 
 lemon, salt and pepper. 
 
 Boil up the sauce, remove to the side of the 
 stove and whisk in the yolks of eggs, add the 
 stock (fish, chicken, rabbit or veal), mix thor- 
 oughly and add the butter gradually, season with 
 pepper and salt and the lemon-juice. Pass 
 through a tammy and use. Before adding the 
 butter the sauce should be sufficiently heated to 
 bind the eggs. Great care must be taken to 
 prevent curdling. Another way to make this 
 sauce is to omit the bechamel, and to use 4 yolks 
 of eggs to % a gill of stock, which is finished 
 with 4 oz. of butter. The first is the most con- 
 venient and most popular way. This sauce, when 
 finished, is to be just hot, and on no account must 
 it be allowed to reach the boiling point. 
 
 NOTE: A less expensive Hollandaise sauce 
 can be made by adding a small quantity of 
 bechamel or other good white sauce to the above. 
 
 Hollandaise Sauce (No. 3) (Inexpensive) : Take 
 2 tablespoonfuls vinegar, 1 shallot, peeled and 
 chopped, 1 bayleaf, 6 white peppercorns crushed, 
 1 gill white sauce, 2 yolks of eggs, 1 teaspoonful 
 lemon juice, 2 ozs. butter, and salt to taste. 
 
 Put the vinegar (French wine vinegar in pref- 
 erence to malt vinegar) with the shallot, bayleaf 
 and peppercorns, in a saucepan, and reduce to 
 half its original quantity; add the white sauce, 
 let it boil, remove the bayleaf and stir in the 
 yolks of eggs. When it begins to thicken, remove 
 from the fire and strain into another saucepan. 
 Ke-heat, taking great care that the sauce does 
 not curdle, and whisk in the butter by degrees; 
 lastly add the lemon juice and enough salt to 
 taste. Serve with boiled fish, artichokes, aspara- 
 gus, etc. 
 
 Hollandaise Sauce (No. 4) : Put into a jar the 
 yolks of four eggs, 4 ozs. of fresh butter, half a 
 teaspoonful of mignonette pepper, a peeled and 
 chopped shallot, a teaspoonful each of tarragon 
 and chilli vinegar. Put the jar into a stewpan 
 
60 THE BOOK OF SAUCES 
 
 containing boiling water, and stir over the fire 
 till it thickens. Then strain and serve. 
 
 Hollandaise Sauce (No. 5): Put one sliced 
 onion, six peppercorns, a bayleaf, into a saucepan 
 with 2 ounces of fresh butter; stir over the fire 
 until the butter is melted, then add a level 
 tablespoonful of flour, fry a little without brown- 
 ing, and stir in gradually % of a pint of white 
 stock, season with a little grated nutmeg and 
 salt, stir until boiling, cook slowly for 10 minutes, 
 then add the yolks of 3 eggs and the juice of 
 half a lemon, stir until it thickens, but do not 
 let it boil again, then strain and serve. 
 
 Green Dutch Sauce (Sauce Hollandaise Verte) : 
 Mix Hollandaise or Dutch sauce with sufficient 
 young parsley leaves, boiled, drained, pounded, 
 and rubbed through a fine sieve, to impart a 
 green tint. Blend well, reheat and serve hot. 
 
 Holstein Sauce: Prepare a white sauce of the 
 Bechamel type, reduce it well with fish stock and 
 white wine, then thicken with a liaison of egg 
 yolks, and flavor with lemon juice and very 
 little nutmeg. Serve hot. 
 
 Horly (or Orly) Sauce: Blend Suprene or 
 other rich white sauce with tomato puree and 
 meat extract or liquefied meat glaze, and finish 
 by whisking in fresh butter. Serve hot. 
 
 Horseradish Sauce: Grate a stick of washed 
 and scraped horseradish, and put it in a basin 
 with a little lemon juice. Rub the yolks of two 
 hard boiled eggs through a sieve, and mix with 
 about four tablespoonfuls of cream; season with 
 salt and pepper and add a teaspoonful of made 
 mustard and half a gill of vinegar; stir till well 
 blended, then stir in the prepared horseradish, 
 and the sauce will be ready for serving after 
 standing for about two hours. 
 
 Horseradish Sauce (No. 2): Grate finely a 
 stick of washed and scraped horseradish. Whip 
 up half a pint of thick cream, and add a table- 
 spoonful of chilli vinegar and a teaspoonful of 
 French or English mustard. Stir in the grated 
 horseradish, mix thoroughly, and serve. 
 
 Horseradish Sauce (No. 3): Grate finely two 
 
THE BOOK OF SAUCES 61 
 
 tablespoonfuls of horseradish after it has been 
 well washed and scraped, then pound it in a 
 mortar, add a teaspoonful of salt and half a tea- 
 spoonful of castor sugar. Mix it gradually with 
 a gill of cream, then stir into it quickly half a 
 gill of vinegar, next add a teaspoonful of made 
 mustard and a pinch of cayenne or Nepaul 
 pepper. 
 
 Horse-radish Sauce, hot (Sauce Raifort, 
 Chaude) : 2 tablespoonfuls grated horse-radish, 
 y 2 pint bechamel, % teaspoonful castor sugar, 
 pinch cayenne and salt, % teaspoonful vinegar. 
 
 Moisten the horse-radish with the vinegar, 
 mix with the sauce, and boil up whilst stirring. 
 Add the sugar and cayenne, allow it to simmer 
 a few minutes, taking great care that the sauce 
 does not curdle; if found too thick, add a table- 
 spoonful of cream or milk. Served with hot roast 
 beef, etc. 
 
 Horse-radish Cream, cold (Creme de Raifort, 
 froide): iy 2 oz. grated horse-radish, 1 gill thick 
 cream, 1 tablespoonful white wine vinegar, 1 
 teaspoonful castor sugar, % teaspoonful powdered 
 mustard, % saltspoonful salt, a pinch of cayenne. 
 
 Put the horse-radish in a basin, add the sugar, 
 mustard, salt, and cayenne; moisten with the 
 vinegar. Stir in gradually the cream, and whisk 
 gently for a few minutes. Serve in a sauce- 
 boat with cold roast beef, etc. 
 
 Horse-radish Sauce, Iced (Sauce Raifort frap^ 
 pee) : 1 stick horse-radish, 1 gill cream or milk, 
 1 teaspoonful mixed mustard, 1 teaspoonful cas- 
 tor sugar, 2 teaspoonfuls vinegar. 
 
 Grate the horse-radish as finely as possible, 
 put it in a basin, stir in the cream or milk, the 
 vinegar, mustard, and the. sugar. Stir well and 
 pour into a sauce-boat. 
 
 When milk is used, a tablespoonful of con- 
 densed Swiss milk should be mixed with the 
 fresh milk, and the sugar should then be omitted. 
 
 Freeze till a semi-liquid consistency, serve 
 with trout or other fish. 
 
 Boar's Head Sauce (Sauce Hure de Sanglier): 
 Prepare a sauce with Seville orange juice, and 
 the finely-chopped rind, castor sugar, red-currant 
 
62 THE BOOK OF SAUCES 
 
 jelly, port wine, and prepared mustard, in due 
 proportions, then season with salt and black 
 pepper. Mix well and serve cold. This sauce 
 is also useful for almost every kind of cold 
 meat, and will keep for some time if bottled. 
 
 Indian Curry Sauce (Sauce Indienne) : Ee- 
 quired: 1% oz. butter, y 2 oz. flour, y 2 small 
 onion, 1 tablespoonful curry -powder, % pint good 
 fish stock, salt, 1 tomato, a few savory herbs, 
 y 2 glass sherry or Marsala. 
 
 Melt the butter, add the onion, finely chopped; 
 when of a nice light brown stir in the flour and 
 curry-powder, blend well, and cook for five min- 
 utes; pour in gradually the fish stock, add the 
 tomato, cut into slices, and the herbs; bring it 
 to the boil whilst stirring, then add the wine, 
 season to taste, cook for twenty minutes, strain 
 and serve. 
 
 Italian Sauce (Sauce Italienne): Eequired: 
 y 2 pint Espagnole sauce, 4 small shallots, 8 pre- 
 served mushrooms, a sprig of thyme, 1 bay-leaf, 
 1 tablespoonful sweet oil, 1 glass Chablis or 
 Sauterne, % gill stock. 
 
 Peel the shallots, chop them finely, place in 
 the corner of a clean cloth, hold tightly wrapped 
 up under cold water, then squeeze out the water, 
 and put them in a small stewpan with the oil, 
 stir over the fire for a few minutes, to blend 
 but not to color. Add the wine, the mushrooms 
 (finely chopped), herbs, and the stock, let it 
 reduce well, and add the espagnole. Boil for ten 
 minutes, take out the herbs, free it from the oil, 
 and keep hot in the bain-marie until required. 
 
 Joinville Sauce: Eequired: 1 oz. flour, % 
 gill fish stock, % pint white stock, 3 oz. butter, 
 3 yolks of eggs, lobster coral, lemon-juice, salt, 
 and cayenne. 
 
 Melt 1 oz. of butter in a saucepan, stir in the 
 flour, and cook a little without browning. Add 
 gradually the fish and white stock, stir until it 
 boils, and let simmer for twenty minutes. Pound 
 the lobster coral in a mortar with an equal 
 quantity of fresh butter, rub through a sieve 
 and stir into the sauce. Stir in the egg-yolks 
 one at a time. Season to taste with a pinch of 
 
THE BOOK OF SAUCES 63 
 
 cayenne, salt and lemon-juice. Whisk well over 
 a slow fire, or in a bain-marie. Do not let the 
 sauce boil up again. Pass through a fine-pointed 
 strainer or napkin, and serve as directed. 
 
 Joinville Sauce (No. 2) : Knead an ounce of 
 butter with an ounce of sifted flour in a stewpan, 
 put it in the hot stove and stir for a few min- 
 utes, so as to cook the flour (be careful not to 
 let the flour get brown). Add the liquor from 
 the fillets, and about half a pint of white stock, 
 stir until it boils, and let simmer for about 10 
 minutes. Kemove the scum, stir in 2 more 
 ounces of butter and 2 yolks of eggs. Season 
 with white pepper and salt, add a few drops of 
 lemon juice and sufficient lobster-spawn to give 
 the sauce a pinkish tint, but do not on any ac- 
 count let the sauce boil again. Stir it long 
 enough over the fire so as to bind the liaison. 
 Pass the sauce through a fine strainer or tammy 
 cloth, and use same as directed. 
 
 Jus (Brown Gravy): Eequired: 2 oz. beef 
 suet or 1 oz. dripping, 2 Ib. trimmings of meat, 
 1 onion, 1 carrot, % head celery, 2 cloves, 1 
 blade mace, 6 peppercorns, bouquet of herbs, 2 
 quarts water. 
 
 Put the beef suet or dripping in a stewpan, 
 add a sliced onion and carrot, fry till brown, 
 put in the beef trimmings or other meat, and 
 any bones of meat or carcass of poultry. Let it 
 bake in the oven for fifteen minutes, take up, 
 pour off the fat, and moisten with the water. 
 Add the celery, cloves, mace, peppercorns, and 
 bouquet of herbs. Let the whole simmer gently 
 for several hours, take off fat and scum, and 
 strain. Season with salt as required. A few 
 drops of caramel may be added if the gravy is 
 not sufficiently brown. 
 
 Karl Sauce: This is a mild kind of curry 
 sauce composed of white sauce flavored with 
 curry and cream. 
 
 Lemon Sauce (Sauce au Citron): Melt an 
 ounce of butter in a stewpan, stir in half-ounce 
 flour and half -ounce of cornflour; cook a little 
 without browning, and gradually stir in half- 
 pint milk; add the thin rind of half a lemon; 
 
64 THE BOOK OF SAUCES 
 
 cook whilst stirring for ten minutes. Dilute 
 with a little stock (and this may be fish, vegeta- 
 ble, meat or chicken stock, according to the 
 dish with which it is served), adding the juice 
 of half a lemon at the same time. Season with 
 pepper and salt, cook for another five minutes. 
 
 NOTE: The yolk of an egg and a little cream 
 may, if liked, be added to this sauce. 
 
 Livournaise Sauce: This is a cold salad sauce 
 of the Vinaigrette type, prepared with pounded 
 anchovy fillets, hard-boiled yolks of eggs, sweet 
 oil, vinegar, chopped parsley, pepper, and nut- 
 meg. All ingredients must be used in due propor- 
 tions and be well blended before the sauce is 
 served. 
 
 Lobster Sauce (Sauce Homard) : Take half a 
 pint of bechamel sauce, add to it two heaped-up 
 tablespoonfuls of finely chopped lobster, includ- 
 ing a little coral or spawn ; mix, and heat up 
 carefully whilst stirring; season with a pinch of 
 cayenne or paprika pepper, and serve when hot. 
 
 Lobster Sauce (No. 2): Slit a small hen lob- 
 ster, take out the coral, and crack the claws, 
 then remove all the flesh and cut it into very 
 small pieces or dice. Pound the coral in a mortar 
 with half an ounce of butter, and rub through a 
 fine sieve. Melt in a stewpan 1 ounce of butter 
 and add about % of an ounce of flour, blend all 
 well together, then add a gill of water and a gill 
 of milk, and stir this mixture over the fire until 
 it boils and thickens; cook it for about ten min- 
 utes, then strain and reheat, now add a little 
 cream, and stir well until it boils again, then 
 whisk in, by degrees, whilst off the fire, the coral 
 butter, stir till it is quite smooth, season with 
 salt, pepper and a pinch of cayenne, put in the 
 chopped lobster last of all to the sauce, mix well, 
 and finish with a little lemon juice. 
 
 Lyonnaise Sauce: Mix a well made tomato 
 sauce with finely cut small shreds of Spanish 
 onions (previously fried in butter); finish the 
 sauce with a little liquefied meat glaze and lemon 
 juice and serve hot. 
 
 Madeira Sauce (Madere Sauce): Proceed the 
 same as for Demi-glace, Add one glass of sherry 
 
THE BOOK OF SAUCES 65 
 
 or Marsala; reduce a little longer than the 
 above, and finish with a little meat glaze. 
 
 Maintenon Sauce: Blend about a gill of white 
 onion puree (Soubise type) with two or three 
 egg-yolks and half a pint of hot Veloutee sauce; 
 reheat, season to taste with salt and white pep- 
 per, and serve hot. 
 
 Maintenon Sauce: No. 2. This sauce is espe- 
 cially adapted for so-called gratin dishes, and 
 must therefore be well reduced to the correct 
 consistency. 1 pint Bechamel sauce, 4 yolks of 
 eggs, 1 tablespoonful Parmesan cheese, 1 table- 
 spoonful cooked onion puree, garlic, paprika 
 pepper, nutmeg. 
 
 Boil the Bechamel sauce for about fifteen min- 
 utes, stirring continually; add to it the yolks of 
 eggs, Parmesan cheese, cooked onion puree (Sou- 
 bise), a suspicion of garlic, just enough to im- 
 part the aroma, a pinch of paprika pepper, and 
 a little grated nutmeg (salt if needed). Stir till 
 it thickens, without allowing it to boil, and use 
 as required. 
 
 Parsley or Fine Herb Sauce (Maitre d' Hot el 
 Sauce) : y 2 pint Bechamel or Veloute sauce, 3 
 oz. butter, % lemon, 1 teaspoonful of chopped 
 parsley seasoning. 
 
 Put the sauce into a stewpan, add a little 
 water, stir until it boils, and reduce well. Whisk 
 in the butter a little at a time, and rub through 
 a tammy cloth or fine hair sieve. Return to the 
 stewpan, add the parsley and lemon-juice, season 
 with pepper and salt. 
 
 Maitre d' Hotel Sauce (No. 2): Warm up 1 
 pint of bechamel sauce, add to it a tablespoonful 
 of finely chopped parsley, a few chervil and 
 tarragon leaves, and a tablespoonful of lemon 
 juice; work up with an ounce of fresh butter, 
 and serve hot. 
 
 Malaga Sauce: Take some good brown sauce, 
 enrich it with liquefied meat glaze, then blend 
 it with port wine and lemon juice, reduce well, 
 season with cayenne and flavor with finely 
 chopped and previously fried shallots. Serve hot. 
 
 Maltaise Sauce: Dilute and reduce finely 
 chopped parsley, shallots and mushrooms with 
 
66 THE BOOK OF SAUCES 
 
 sherry, and blend with Veloutee or Allemande 
 sauce, then flavor with lemon juice and add 
 finely shredded orange rind. 
 
 Marchand de Vin Sauce (Wine Mercliant 
 Sauce): Peel and chop finely 3 shallots, toss 
 these, i. e. blend in a stewpan containing half 
 an ounce of butter, then pour in a gill of claret, 
 cover, and reduce a little. Next add half a pint 
 of Demi-glace or Espagnole sauce, a small piece 
 of meat glaze, and enough salt and pepper to 
 taste. Boil up whilst stirring, skim, and let 
 simmer for a few minutes. Lastly stir in half a 
 pat of fresh butter, and about a teaspoonful of 
 lemon juice. This sauce is usually served with 
 grilled steak or fillets of beef. 
 
 Marguery Sauce: Take some white fish sauce 
 (of the Mornay type), blend it with oyster 
 puree, season to taste with salt and white pep- 
 per, and finish with a little double cream. 
 
 Marinade Sauce: Cut a large carrot and two 
 peeled onions in slices, and fry these vegetables 
 in oil with a bay-leaf, a sprig of thyme, a clove 
 of garlic, a sprig of parsley, two chopped shal- 
 lots, and a little crushed pepper. When they are 
 fried without taking a brown color, moisten with 
 a mixture of vinegar and water, adding a little 
 salt. Allow to simmer for twenty minutes, then 
 strain and repeat with a pint of Espagnole sauce. 
 
 Marinade Sauce No. 2: % pint stock, y 2 gill 
 vinegar, 1 tablespoonful flour, 1 oz. butter, 1 
 small carrot, 3 shallots, thyme, 1 clove, parsley, 
 bayleaf, chives, flour. 
 
 Melt the butter in a stewpan, add the sliced 
 carrot, sliced shallots, a sprig of thyme, and the 
 clove. Fry a little, then add a few sprigs of 
 parsley, a bay-leaf, some chives, and a table- 
 spoonful of flour. Stir over the fire for a few 
 minutes. Moisten with the vinegar and stock, 
 season with pepper and salt. Allow to simmer 
 for half an hour, strain or pass through a tam- 
 my cloth, and serve as required for releves, roast 
 or braised game, etc. 
 
 Mariniere Sauce: Mix some white wine sauce 
 with finely chopped herbs and shallots previously 
 
THE BOOK OF SAUCES 67 
 
 blended in butter, and enrich with a little fish 
 essence. 
 
 Matelote Sauce: % pint of espagnole sauce, 
 1 oz. butter, ^ gill Burgundy wine, ^ gill fish 
 stock, liquor or fumet, % onion, y 2 carrot, ^ gill 
 mushroom liquor. 
 
 Peel the onion and carrot and mince very fine, 
 fry in a little butter a nice color, drain off the 
 butter, moisten with the wine and mushroom 
 liquor, let this reduce well, then add the fish 
 stock or liquor and the espagnole. Let simmer 
 for ten minutes; then strain through a fine 
 strainer or cloth, add a small piece of butter, 
 season, if necessary, with a few drops of lemon- 
 juice, salt and pepper, and keep hot. 
 
 NOTE: When Espagnole is not handy, sub- 
 stitute for it % oz. of flour, % oz. of butter, 
 well blended (fried to a chestnut brown), and 
 diluted with % pint of rich brown stock; boil 
 well, skim, season, and strain. 
 
 Matelote Blanche Sauce: Blend a white sauce 
 with mushroom liquor, white wine, and finely 
 chopped peeled button mushrooms previously 
 blended in butter. Cook well. Strain, reheat, 
 and add chopped oysters flavored with chopped 
 savory herbs and very little anchovy essence. 
 
 Matelote Brune Sauce: Blend a red wine 
 sauce (Genoise, or Merchant de Vin) with finely 
 chopped fried button onions and button mush- 
 rooms, used in due proportion; flavor with 
 chopped savory herbs and very little anchovy 
 essence. 
 
 Marseillaise Sauce: y 2 Ib. ripe tomatoes, % 
 carrot, 1 small onion, 1 oz. raw ham, 2 oz. butter, 
 1 oz. flour, 1 bay-leaf, 1 pint chicken-stock, 1 oz. 
 bacon (fat), and salt, pepper to taste. 
 
 Remove the stems of the tomatoes, cut them in 
 halves, crossways, take out the pips and mash 
 up, and put them in a stewpan with the stock 
 and vegetables; the latter should be washed, 
 peeled, and cut into slices. Cook slowly until 
 tender. Cut up the bacon and ham, put them in 
 a stewpan with 1 oz. of butter, stir over the fire 
 for five minutes; add the flour, and cook long 
 enough to blend the flour (do not let it get 
 
68 THE BOOK OF SAUCES 
 
 brown) ; now add the tomato puree, the bay -leaf, 
 the stock, and the chicken. Allow to cook to- 
 gether slowly for twenty minutes. Season with 
 pepper, salt, and a pinch of aromatic seasoning. 
 Pass through a tammy cloth or hair sieve, heat 
 up again, and whisk in the rest of the butter. 
 Maximilian Sauce: Prepare a Tartare sauce 
 and blend it with sufficient tomato pulp or puree 
 to give it a reddish tint, then add sufficient finely 
 chopped tarragon leaves to flavor. Serve cold. 
 
 Mayonnaise Sauce: 2 yolks of eggs, 1 tea- 
 spoonful of French mustard, % teaspoonful salt, 
 a pinch of pepper, 1 tablespoonful of tarragon 
 vinegar, about % pint best salad oil, and 1 
 tablespoonful of cream. 
 
 Put the yolks into a basin, add the mustard 
 (raw, not mixed), salt and pepper; stir quickly 
 with a wooden spoon, adding, drop by drop at 
 first and gradually more, the salad oil, and at 
 intervals a few drops of vinegar; the vinegar 
 is added when the sauce appears too thick. By 
 stirring well, the mixture should become the 
 consistency of very thick cream. At last add 
 the raw cream, stirring all the while. A little 
 cold water may be added if found too thick. 
 In hot weather the basin in which the mayon- 
 naise is made should be placed in a vessel of 
 crushed ice. 
 
 Mayonnaise Sauce (No. 2): Put two yolks of 
 eggs into a clean basin, add a heaped up salt- 
 spoonful of salt, and stir with a wooden spoon, 
 adding little by little (drop by drop) one and a 
 half gills of best salad oil, and at intervals a 
 tablespoonful of French wine vinegar. Continue 
 to stir vigorously till the mixture acquires a 
 creamy substance, then add another tablespoon- 
 ful of vinegar, a teaspoonful of mixed mustard, 
 and lastly a few drops of chilli vinegar, and use 
 as required. 
 
 Mayonnaise Sauce (No. 3): Break the yolks 
 of 2 eggs into a mixing basin, add a pinch of 
 castor sugar, half a teaspoonful of salt, and a 
 saltspoonful of mustard. Stir with a wooden 
 spoon till smooth, then add drop by drop half a 
 pint of good olive oil, stirring briskly all the 
 
THE BOOK OF SAUCES 
 
 time. Great care must be taken in adding the 
 oil, otherwise it will curdle. Then add a dessert- 
 spoonful each of tarragon and chilli vinegar, and 
 finally 2 tablespoonfuls of whipped cream. 
 
 Mayonnaise Sauce tomatee: To a pint of well 
 prepared and fairly stiff mayonnaise add half as 
 much tomato puree or cold tomato sauce. Mix 
 gradually, and season to taste. 
 
 Medicis Sauce: Blend a nicely prepared 
 Bearnaise sauce with tomato puree previously 
 diluted and reduced with a little red wine. Serve 
 hot. 
 
 Melted Butter Sauce: 1 oz. fresh butter, % 
 oz. flour, and % pint cold water. 
 
 Put the butter in a saucepan, when melted 
 stir in the flour (sifted). Cook for a few mo- 
 ments whilst stirring, add gradually * pint of 
 cold water, continue to stir till the sauce boils, 
 and allow to cook for at least ten minutes. Add 
 salt and pepper to taste, and strain if necessary. 
 
 Mint Sauce (Sauce a la Menthe): 2 table- 
 spoonfuls finely chopped green mint, 1 dessert- 
 spoonful brown sugar, 3 to 4 tablespoonfuls 
 vinegar. 
 
 Put the mint into a basin, add the sugar and 
 pour over a little warm water, sufficient to dis- 
 solve the sugar, cover and let cool, then add the 
 vinegar, stir well, and pour into a sauce-boat. 
 
 Mint Sauce (No. 2): Wash a small bunch of 
 green mint in cold water, then strip off the 
 leaves from the stems, and chop them finely. 
 Put them in a small basin, with iy 2 gills of good 
 vinegar and a little moist sugar; stir well, and 
 serve when required. The correct proportion of 
 mint and sugar to the above quantity of vinegar 
 is two tablespoonfuls of chopped mint and one 
 small dessertspoonful of moist or Demerara 
 sugar. 
 
 Mint Sauce (No. 3) : Wash and drain a small 
 bunch of green mint, sprinkle over it a good 
 pinch of salt, chop it finely, and add to every 
 tablespoonful of chopped mint one tablespoonful 
 of water, one of white wine vinegar, and a tea- 
 spoonful of castor sugar. Mix well and serve. 
 
 NOTE: A pinch of borax added to this sauce 
 is considered by some cooks an improvement. 
 
70 THE BOOK OF SAUCES 
 
 Mirabeau Sauce: 1 gill espagnole sauce, 1% 
 gill fish stock, y% small onion, % small carrot, 
 ^4 gill Burgundy wine, *4 gill mushroom liquor, 
 iy 2 oz. fresh butter, chopped tarragon, chervil, 
 and parsley. 
 
 Prepare the fish stock from the bones and 
 trimmings from fresh fish. Peel the onion, scrape 
 the carrot, and mince both; fry them in a little 
 butter to a nice color, drain off the butter, add 
 the wine, cover and let boil quickly for a few 
 minutes. Add the mushroom liquor and the 
 stock, reduce to about half the original quantity, 
 then stir in the espagnole sauce, and let simmer 
 for about five minutes. Strain into a clean 
 saucepan, add the remainder of the butter, about 
 a teaspoonful (in all) of chopped parsley, tar- 
 ragon, and chervil, also a few drops of lemon- 
 juice and seasoning if found necessary. Whisk 
 over the fire until thoroughly hot (not boiling), 
 and use as directed. 
 
 Miroton Sauce: Blend some Demi-glace sauce 
 with finely minced, blanched and fried onions, 
 and tomato sauce, add vinegar and mustard to 
 taste, reduce well, season with salt and pepper, 
 and serve hot. 
 
 Mornay Sauce: Eequired: % pint Bechamel 
 sauce, y<2 gill mushroom or Italienne sauce, % 
 gill cream, % oz. meat glaze or 2 tablespoonfuls 
 half -glaze of chicken stock, % oz. grated Parme- 
 san cheese, and 1 oz. fresh butter. 
 
 Put the Bechamel sauce into a saucepan, re- 
 duce it well, then add the Italian or mushroom 
 sauce. Let it boil up, skim well, and add the 
 cream. Place the stewpan in a vessel of boiling 
 water, stir the sauce with a whisk, adding the 
 grated cheese, butter, and meat glaze; work in 
 these ingredients little by little, and stir or 
 whisk till the sauce has acquired a creamy tex- 
 ture. Do not allow the sauce to boil again. 
 This r auce is usually served with fish in which 
 case i< little fish essence should also be incorpo- 
 rated before serving. 
 
 Mousseline Sauce (White): Eequired: % gill 
 cream, 4 yolks of eggs, 3 crushed long pepper- 
 corns, 1 oz. butter, salt, nutmeg, lemon-juice. 
 
THE BOOK OF SAUCES 71 
 
 Put the cream, egg-yolks, and pepper in a 
 stewpan, place this in a bain-marie half filled 
 with boiling water, beat up with a whisk for a 
 little time, then add gradually little pieces of 
 butter, stirring all the while, but do not add any 
 more butter until each piece has been thoroughly 
 worked in and is absorbed in the sauce. The 
 sauce when finished will have the appearance of 
 a frothy cream, and should then be passed 
 through a tammy cloth. Just before serving fin- 
 ish off with a few drops of lemon-juice, a pinch 
 of salt, and a grate of nutmeg should be added 
 during the process of whisking. Served with 
 souffle, fillets of veal or fowl, asparagus or arti- 
 chokes. 
 
 Mousseline Sauce Verte (Green Mousseline 
 Sauce, cold) : Kequired : 1 gill mayonnaise, % 
 gill cold Bechamel sauce, 1 tablespoonful of 
 pickled parsley, a few sprigs each of tarragon, 
 chervil, and burnet, 2 tablespoonfuls of cooked 
 spinach, 2 hard-boiled yolks of eggs, 2 anchovy 
 fillets, and ^ gill of cream. 
 
 Wash and pick the green herbs, steep them 
 in boiling water for a few minutes, drain well, 
 pound in a mortar with the spinach, and rub 
 through a fine sieve. Pound the yolks of eggs 
 and anchovy fillets, mix with the green puree, 
 add the cream, and rub the whole through a 
 sieve. Dilute with mayonnaise and BSchamel 
 sauce, add a little seasoning and a teaspoonful 
 of mixed mustard. 
 
 Mustard Sauce (Sauce Moutarde) (for grilled 
 or boiled Herrings or Mackerel) : 1 oz. butter, 
 % oz. patent cornflour, *4 oz. flour, 1 dessert- 
 spoonful of English mustard, ^ gill vinegar, 
 % pint fish stock, y 2 gill cream, pepper and salt 
 to taste. 
 
 Melt the butter in a small saucepan, stir in 
 the cornflour and flour, and blend over the fire 
 without browning. Add the fish stock and bring 
 it to the boil, cook for ten minutes. Mix the 
 mustard with enough vinegar to make a smooth 
 paste, stir this into the sauce with the cream, 
 boil up again. Season to taste with pepper and 
 salt, and add a little more vinegar just before 
 serving. 
 
72 THE BOOK OF SAUCES 
 
 Mussel Sauce (Sauce aux Moules) : Mix some 
 Hollandaise or Dutch sauce with cooked mussels 
 cut into small dice, season to taste and serve hot. 
 
 Nantua Sauce: Heat up 1% gills of Bechamel 
 sauce, and stir in % gill of cream, then finish 
 with y 2 oz. of crayfish butter. Crayfish tails may 
 if liked be mixed with this sauce just before 
 serving. 
 
 Nigoise Sauce: Blend some Demi-glace sauce 
 with a small quantity of concentrated Italian 
 tomato puree, season to taste and serve hot. 
 
 Nonpareille Sauce: Prepare a Hollandaise or 
 Dutch sauce, and incorporate some crayfish or 
 lobster butter, then add finely chopped lobster 
 meat, preserved mushrooms (champignons), hard- 
 boiled whites of eggs, and truffles, all in due pro- 
 portions and finely chopped. Serve hot. 
 
 Normande Sauce: 2~y 2 oz. butter, 1 oz. flour, 
 white stock, fish liquor, 2 yolks of eggs, and 
 lemon-juice. 
 
 Melt 1% oz. of butter in a stewpan, add the 
 flour, stir long enough to cook the flour, moisten 
 with about a pint of white stock and a little 
 fish liquor. Allow to boil for ten minutes, skim 
 well, and finish with a liaison of 2 yolks of eggs. 
 Stir in gradually the remainder of the fresh 
 butter, and a few drops of lemon-juice. Whisk 
 well and pass the sauce through a fine strainer 
 or tammy cloth. 
 
 Norvegienne Sauce: Prepare a cold sauce of 
 the Mayonnaise type with hard-boiled egg yolks 
 previously passed through a sieve, yolks of fresh 
 eggs, salt, pepper, made mustard, oil and vine- 
 gar, then mix in some finely chopped savory 
 herbs. Serve cold. 
 
 Noisette Sauce (Nut Sauce): Take some Hol- 
 landaise or Dutch sauce and blend it with pre- 
 viously baked, pounded and sieved hazel nuts. 
 Finish the sauce by whisking in a little cream. 
 
 Egg Sauce (Sauce aux Oeuf s) : To a pint of 
 white sauce (Bechamel or Melted Butter) add 
 1 to 2 hard-boiled eggs chopped up small. Season 
 to taste with salt and pepper and serve hot. 
 
 Egg Sauce (Sauce aux oeufs durs): Boil an 
 egg for ten minutes, place it in cold water 
 
THE BOOK OF SAUCES 73 
 
 and remove the shell. Separate the yolk from 
 the white and chop each finely. Mix with half 
 a pint of white sauce or bechamel, previously 
 heated, season to taste, heat up. 
 
 Onion Sauce (Sauce aux Oignons): 2 onions, 
 1 oz. butter, ^ oz. flour, % pint milk, nutmeg. 
 
 Peel the onions, cut them in halves and blanch 
 them, drain and cook in salted water till tender, 
 drain again and chop finely. Melt the butter in 
 a saucepan, stir in the flour, cook a little and add 
 gradually the milk; stir till it boils and put in 
 the chopped onions, season with pepper and a 
 grate of nutmeg, and cook for 10 minutes longer. 
 
 NOTE: When brown onion sauce is required, 
 mince the onions and fry a light brown color in 
 butter, drain off the butter and add half a pint of 
 brown sauce, cook for 15 minutes. 
 
 Onion Sauce (No. 2): Take some white sauce 
 in which a due proportion of finely chopped 
 boiled onions have been cooked; season with salt, 
 nutmeg and pepper. Served with boiled rabbit 
 or boiled or baked mutton. 
 
 For brown onion sauce, the onions are first 
 fried in butter and then cooked in Demi-glace 
 or Poivrade sauce. 
 
 Olive Sauce: Make a good brown sauce, mix 
 it with stoned or turned French olives, season to 
 taste and flavor with a little lemon juice. Serve 
 hot. 
 
 Orange Sauce (Sauce a rOrange): 2 peeled 
 shallots, 1 orange, lemon-juice, 2 ozs. raw ham, 
 cayenne to taste, 2 glasses port wine, and 1 gill 
 of meat gravy. 
 
 Chop the shallots and put them into a small 
 stewpan with the rind of the orange, quite free 
 from the white or pith, and a little chopped lean 
 of raw ham and cayenne pepper; moisten with 
 the port wine, and a little meat gravy; set the 
 essence to simmer gently on the fire for about 
 ten minutes, then add the juice of the orange 
 with a little lemon-juice, and pass it through a 
 silk sieve. 
 
 Orange Sauce (No. 2): (For wild duck, wild 
 fowl, widgeon, teal, etc.) Mix half a gill of rich 
 brown sauce with a gill of meat gravy, to this 
 
74 THE BOOK OF SAUCES 
 
 add the strained juice of an orange, and boil up; 
 skim, and season with salt and pepper. Shred 
 finely the rind of half an orange, and put it into 
 the sauce, boil up again, and serve. 
 
 NOTE: If liked, a small, finely chopped shal- 
 lot and half a glass of port wine or claret can 
 be added and cooked with the above sauce. 
 This is considered an improvement. 
 
 Jus <T Orange Sauce: % pint Espagnole sauce, 
 y 2 pint good stock or gravy, 1 orange, lemon- 
 juice, and 1 teaspoonful red-currant jelly. 
 
 Peel the orange thinly, and cut the peel into 
 Julienne strips, put them in a stewpan with 
 sufficient water to cover, boil for five minutes, 
 and drain on a sieve. Put in a stewpan, the 
 Espagnole sauce, stock or roast meat gravy, and 
 half the juice of the orange. Allow all to reduce 
 to half its quantity, strain, and add the orange- 
 peel, a teaspoonful of lemon-juice, the red-cur- 
 rant jelly, season with pepper and salt, boil up 
 again, and serve with roast wild duck, wild boar 
 or other game. 
 
 Sorrel Sauce (Oseille Sauce) : Prepare a thin 
 gravy sauce or use Demi-glace sauce; to which 
 add finely chopped and blanched sorrel leaves. 
 This sauce is usually served with braised or 
 boiled fowls, etc. 
 
 Oyster Sauce (Sauce aux Huitres): Eequired: 
 12 oysters, 1 oz. of butter, a teaspoonful of 
 lemon- juice, 1 yolk of egg, and % of a pint of 
 bechamel sauce. 
 
 Open the oysters, remove the beards and put 
 them, with their liquor, in a small saucepan, 
 with the butter. Cover with the lid, and cook 
 for four minutes (they must not be allowed to 
 boil). Put the oysters on a sieve, cut them in 
 halves or quarters, allow the liquid to reduce to 
 half its original quantity. Strain, return to the 
 saucepan, add the bechamel sauce; when hot 
 bind with the yolk of egg, then put in the 
 oysters and lemon-juice. Stir till quite hot, but 
 do not let it boil. Season to taste and serve. 
 
 Oyster Sauce (Sauce aux Huitres): Reduce 
 half a pint of Bechamel sauce with the strained 
 liquor of six sauce oysters. Beard the oysters 
 
THE BOOK OF SAUCES 75 
 
 and cut them into quarters, or smaller, if liked; 
 boil for a few seconds only, then season with a 
 few drops of lemon-juice and additional salt and 
 pepper, if found necessary. 
 
 Oyster sauce forms an excellent adjunct with, 
 boiled fish especially so with turbot and cod, 
 also with boiled poultry, such as fowl or turkey. 
 
 Paprika Sauce: This consists of Veloutee or 
 Allemande sauce highly seasoned with paprika, 
 which is Eed Hungarian pepper. 
 
 Parisienne Sauce: This is a rich brown sauce 
 flavored with previously blended chopped shal- 
 lots to which add some finely chopped parsley, a 
 little lemon juice and some liquefied meat glaze, 
 then finish by whisking in a little fresh butter. 
 Serve with entrecotes, steaks or fillets of beef. 
 
 Parsley Sauce (Sauce Persil) : Prepare half a 
 pint of Bechamel or other white sauce, to this 
 add 1 dessertspoonful of finely chopped and 
 washed parsley and a few drops of lemon-juice. 
 
 Pekoe Sauce: Mix 2 ounces of butter and a 
 teaspoonful of English mustard into a paste, then 
 season with salt and pepper and a tablespoonful 
 of Worcestershire sauce. Put this into a stew- 
 pan and let it gradually get hot. This sauce is 
 excellent with red mullet. 
 
 Persillade Sauce: Prepare a Vinaigrette sauce 
 in the usual manner with olive oil, vinegar, salt, 
 pepper, lemon juice and made mustard, then stir 
 in some finely chopped parsley and green savory 
 herbs. This sauce is usually served cold with 
 fish, vegetables, or as a salad dressing. 
 
 Perigueux Sauce (Truffle Sauce) : 1 gill brown 
 sauce, 1 gill tomato sauce, 1 glass sherry, 1 
 teaspoonful anchovy essence, 1 oz. butter, 3 
 truffles. 
 
 Chop finely three large truffles, put them in a 
 small stewpan with the sherry, reduce to one- 
 half (covered); add the brown and tomato sauce; 
 boil for a few minutes, finish with a teaspoonful 
 of anchovy essence and the butter. 
 
 Piment Sauce: Take some Demi-glace sauee 
 and blend it with tomato puree, to which add 
 some finely chopped pimento or sweet pepper 
 and season sparingly with cayenne. Serve hot.- 
 
76 THE BOOK OF SAUCES 
 
 Piquante Sauce (Sharp Sauce) : % onion or 4 
 shallots, 3 gherkins (chopped), 1 tablespoonful 
 chopped capers, 1 gill vinegar, x /2 teaspoonful 
 anchovy essence, 1 bay-leaf, 1 sprig of thyme, 
 and % pint espagnole sauce. 
 
 Peel and chop the onion or shallots, put them 
 in a stewpan with the vinegar, bay-leaf, and 
 thyme, cover, and reduce to half the quantity 
 of liquor. Strain into another stewpan, add 
 the chopped gherkins and capers, moisten with 
 the sauce, add the anchovy essence, boil a few 
 minutes, and serve. 
 
 Piquante Sauce (Another Method): Chop sep- 
 arately four shallots, three pickled gherkins, a 
 tablespoonful of piccalilly, and a dessertspoon- 
 ful of French capers. Put in a stewpan with a 
 bay-leaf, a sprig of thyme, and a gill of French 
 wine vinegar; cover the stewpan and let reduce 
 to half the quantity. Kemove the herbs, dilute 
 with a pint of Espagnole sauce, season with 
 pepper, boil up and skim. 
 
 Piquante Sauce (No. 3): Take half a small 
 onion or 2 shallots, 2 chopped gherkins, 1 table- 
 spoonful chopped capers, 1 gill vinegar, 1 bay- 
 leaf, 1 sprig of thyme, and % pint Espagnole or 
 brown sauce. 
 
 Peel and chop finely the onion or shallots, 
 put them in a stewpan with the vinegar, bay- 
 leaf, and thyme, cover and reduce to half the 
 quantity of liquor. Strain into another stewpan. 
 
 Piquante Tartare Sauce. Eequired: 1 gill of 
 olive oil, 2 yolks of eggs, 1 tablespoonful of 
 gherkins, 1 tablespoonful of French vinegar, 1 
 tablespoonful of tarragon vinegar, 1 teaspoon- 
 ful of made mustard, 1 teaspoonful of anchovy 
 essence, salt and cayenne. 
 
 Put the yolks of egg in a mixing bowl, place 
 this if possible on ice or in very cold water, next 
 add the oil drop by drop, stirring or whisking 
 always in the same direction, until the eggs be- 
 come thick, then add vinegar to taste and other 
 ingredients. The gherkins should be chopped 
 finely and added separately to the anchovy es- 
 sence; all this must be carefully mixed together. 
 Keep in a cool place until needed. 
 
THE BOOK OF SAUCES 77 
 
 Poivrade Sauce (Pepper Sauce): % pint of 
 Espagnole sauce, ^ oz. of butter, y% small car- 
 rot, % small onion, 18 peppercorns. 1 bay-leaf, 
 1 sprig thyme, 2 cloves, and ^ oz. of raw barn 
 or bacon. 
 
 Mince the onion and carrot, cut the ham. or 
 bacon into small pieces; fry the above in the 
 butter for three minutes, add the peppercorns 
 (crushed) herbs, etc., skim off the fat, moisten 
 with the sauce, and boil for ten minutes or 
 longer; skim, season, strain, and serve as 
 required. 
 
 Polish Sauce (Polonaise Sauce) : Take % pint 
 of Veloutee sauce and blend it with a little sour 
 cream, some finely grated horseradish, and finely 
 chopped fennel, and flavor with lemon juice. 
 Serve hot. 
 
 Pompadour Sauce: 2 oz. butter, ^ pint vel- 
 outee or allemande sauce, 1 shallot, 6 preserved 
 mushrooms, 2 yolks of eggs, ^4 gill cream, 1 
 teaspoonful chopped parsley, pepper, salt and a 
 grate of nutmeg. 
 
 Peel and chop the shallot, and mince finely 
 the mushrooms. Blend the shallot in an ounce 
 of butter, but do not let it take color; put in 
 the mushrooms and stir over the fire until all 
 moisture is absorbed, then add the sauce, stir 
 until it boils, skim well, and let it cook a few 
 minutes. Beat up the yolks of eggs with the 
 cream and parsley, stir into the sauce and sea- 
 son with pepper, salt and a little nutmeg; fin- 
 ish with the remaining ounce of butter, but do 
 not let it boil again. Keep in the bain-marie 
 until required for serving. 
 
 Pauvre Homme Sauce (Poor Man's Sauce): 
 Prepare a plain brown sauce, to which add suffi- 
 cient tomato ketchup and anchovy fish essence 
 to flavor. Suitable as a fish sauce to be served 
 hot. 
 
 Portugaise Sauce: Reduce about a pint of 
 tomato sauce with a gill of rich veal gravy, 
 flavor it with finely chopped onion, blanched and 
 fried in butter, with a little crushed garlic. 
 
 Poulette Sauce: Melt an ounce of butter and 
 stir in % ounce of flour, cook for a few minutes 
 
78 THE BOOK OP SAUCES 
 
 without browning the flour, then stir in 1 pint 
 of white stock, stir till it boils, and cook for at 
 least 15 minutes, thicken with 2 yolks of eggs, 
 season with salt and pepper, and finish with half 
 an ounce of fresh butter. 
 
 Prince of Wales Sauce (Prince de Galles 
 Sauce): This is a cold sauce prepared with 
 chopped yolks of hard-boiled eggs and yolks of 
 raw eggs, olive oil, tarragon vinegar, mixed with 
 finely chopped savory herbs, and prepared French 
 mustard. It is usually served with grilled or 
 fried fish, or grilled meats a la Tartare. 
 
 Princesse Sauce (Hot Sauce for Fried Chicken, 
 etc.): l 1 /^ gill of Bechamel or veloutee sauce, 
 2 tablespoonfuls French wine vinegar, 1 oz. 
 fresh butter, 1 lemon, 1 teaspoonful of grated 
 horse-radish, nutmeg, 8 pepper-corns and pars- 
 ley. 
 
 Put the grated rind of the lemon and the horse- 
 radish in a small stewpan with the French wine 
 vinegar, add a little grated nutmeg and the 
 crushed white peppercorns, boil for several min- 
 utes, then add the Bechamel or veloutee sauce. 
 Cook for ten minutes, and pass through a fine 
 sieve or tammy. He-heat, season with salt and 
 more pepper, if needed, work in by means of a 
 whisk the butter and a teaspoonful of finely 
 chopped parsley, and serve with any kind of 
 fixture of poultry, fish or meat. 
 
 Provengale Sauce: Put two tablespoonfuls each 
 of finely chopped preserved mushrooms and 
 peeled shallots, two cloves of crushed garlic, and 
 a small bunch of sweet savory herbs into a sauce- 
 pan, and pour over a gill of olive oil; season 
 with salt and pepper. Cook steadily with the lid 
 on, shaking or stirring frequently, and then add 
 1 pint of brown sauce (Espagnole) and a wine- 
 glassful of white wine. Simmer for about half 
 an hour, then take out the bunch of herbs, and 
 serve. 
 
 Demi-Provencale Sauce: This is practically the 
 same as the above, omitting the mushrooms, shal- 
 lot, herbs and wine, and adding half a teaspoon- 
 ful of castor sugar. Strain the sauce before 
 serving. \ 
 
THE BOOK OP SAUCES 79 
 
 Ravigote Sauce, Chaud (Hot Ravigote Sauce) : 
 Take some hot Bechamel sauce, and blend it with 
 finely chopped, green, savory herbs, previously 
 reduced with white wine vinegar, then finish the 
 sauce with a liaison of butter and cream, season 
 to taste, and serve. 
 
 Ravigote Sauce, Froid (Cold Ravigote Sauce) : 
 Take some Mayonnaise sauce, mix it with suffi- 
 cient finely chopped parsley, chives, chervil, tar- 
 ragon, and peeled shallots, then stir in a little 
 spinach greening to give it the necessary color. 
 
 Ref orme Sauce (for Cutlets a la Re"f orme) : 
 1 gill poivrade sauce, 1 small glass port wine, 
 1 teaspoonful red-currant jelly. 
 
 This sauce consists of poivrade sauce mixed 
 with port wine and red-currant jelly. Boil well 
 for ten minutes, and strain. The usual Reform 
 garnish, consisting of Julienne strips of gher- 
 kins, mushrooms, truffles, hard-boiled white of 
 egg and cooked ox-tongue, is served at the same 
 time. 
 
 Regence Sauce (Regent Sauce) : Blend % pint 
 of Demi-glace sauce with % pint of thin gravy 
 sauce, and reduce both with a little white wine 
 and truffle essence, then flavor with finely minced 
 and butter blended onions. 
 
 Remoulade Sauce: y 2 pint salad oil, 2 table- 
 spoonfuls tarragon vinegar, 1 teaspoonful made 
 mustard, tarragon, parsley, burnet, chives, 1 
 yolk of egg, castor sugar. 
 
 Blanch a few leaves of tarragon, parsley, bur- 
 net, and chives, drain and chop finely. Put in 
 a basin the yolk of egg with salt and pepper to 
 taste, stir well with a wooden spoon, work in 
 gradually half a pint of salad oil, and at inter- 
 vals a few drops of tarragon vinegar. About 
 two tablespoonfuls of vinegar is required to 
 half a pint of oil. When the sauce is finished 
 add a teaspoonful of made mustard, a pinch of 
 castor sugar, and the chopped herbs. 
 
 Remoulade Sauce (No. 2) : Blanch a few leaves 
 of tarragon, fennel, parsley, burnet, and chives; 
 drain the herbs, and chop them very finely. Put 
 in a basin the yolk of an egg, with salt and 
 pepper to taste; stir well with a wooden spoon. 
 
80 THE BOOK OF SAUCES 
 
 Work in gradually half a pint of salad oil, and 
 at intervals a few drops of tarragon vinegar. 
 About two tablespoonfuls of vinegar are required 
 to half a pint of oil. When the sauce is finished, 
 add a teaspoonful of made mustard, a pinch of 
 castor sugar, and the chopped herbs. 
 
 Eicardo Sauce: Prepare a fumet from the 
 carcase of game, to which add finely minced 
 fried onions and toasted bread, and blend with 
 rich brown sauce, strain, flavor with sherry, and 
 finish with a little liquefied meat glaze. 
 
 Eiche Sauce: This is Hollandaise enriched 
 with lobster butter or spawn, to which small dice 
 shapes of truffle and crayfish tails are added just 
 before serving. 
 
 Eichelieu Sauce: This is a rich brown game 
 sauce, reduced with Madeira or Marsala wine, 
 then work in a little liquefied meat extract and 
 some finely chopped truffles. 
 
 Eobert Sauce: % small onion, % oz. butter, 
 y% teaspoonful castor sugar, y 2 pint Espagnole 
 sauce, % glass -white wine, and saltspoonful dry 
 mustard. 
 
 Peel and mince the onion, fry it in the butter 
 a nut brown, add the mustard, moisten with the 
 wine, and reduce a little. Stir in the Espagnole 
 and cook for ten minutes; season it to taste, 
 and strain. 
 
 Eoman Sauce (Eomaine Sauce): Take a pint 
 of Espagnole sauce, heat it up, and mix with a 
 small quantity of each, cleaned currants, sul- 
 tanas and Italian pine seeds, then reduce with a 
 little white wine vinegar; press all through a 
 sieve, reheat, season and serve. 
 
 Eoyal Sauce: Put an ounce of butter into a 
 stewpan, when melted stir into it a heaped up 
 dessertspoonful of flour, add gradually y 2 pint of 
 fish stock, stir till it boils, and let simmer for 
 about 10 minutes. Strain, reheat, and add a 
 tablespoonful of cream, a teaspoonful of anchovy 
 essence, and a tablespoonful of "Pan Yan" 
 sauce. Season to taste, reheat without boiling, 
 and serve with boiled turbot or salmon. 
 
 Eouennaise Sauce: 2 shallots, bay -leaf, a 
 
THE BOOK OF SAUCES 81 
 
 sprig of thyme, 1 glass claret, 1 pint demi-glace 
 sauce, and 2 or 3 ducks' livers. 
 
 Infuse the finely chopped shallots, bay-leaf, 
 and a sprig of thyme in the glass of claret. 
 Add the demi-glace sauce and the finely chopped 
 ducks' livers, and let reduce, season to taste, 
 and strain. 
 
 Russian Sauce (Sauce Russa): Chop finely 2 
 oz. of lean ham, 4 peeled shallots, and fry in but- 
 ter (about ~y% oz.) for a few seconds, then add 
 a bay-leaf, a sprig of thyme, and a glass of 
 white wine; cover, and let reduce to about half 
 the quantity. To this add about a pint of vel- 
 outee or allemande sauce, and allow to cook 
 gently for ten minutes. Remove the herbs, and 
 add a tablespoonful of finely grated horse-rad- 
 ish, season with cayenne and nutmeg, and pass 
 through a seive or tammy cloth. Re-heat, stir 
 in a pat of fresh butter, and a teaspoonful of 
 liquified meat glaze. This sauce is excellent 
 with grilled fish or fillets of beef. 
 
 Cold Salmon Sauce: Take 4 ounces of butter, 
 one tablespoonful of anchovy essence, two table- 
 spoonfuls of chilli vinegar, one tablespoonful of 
 cold water, a grate of nutmeg and a pinch of 
 salt. Put all into a mixing basin to warm and 
 stir or whisk till quite smooth, then stir in the 
 yolk of an egg, mix well, and serve when quite 
 cold. 
 
 Salmi, or Salmy Sauce: Required: 1 teaspoon- 
 ful red-currant jelly, % pint Espagnole sauce, 
 
 1 gill of game stock, carcass of cooked game, 
 
 2 shallots, 1 bay-leaf, a sprig of thyme, some 
 mushroom trimmings, 1 glass port wine, 1 table- 
 spoonful sweet oil. 
 
 Peel and chop finely the shallots, fry in oil a 
 golden color, add the bay-leaf, thyme and mush- 
 room trimmings, chop up the carcass of game, 
 and fry a little in fat or butter, drain, and put 
 with the above preparation, add the port wine, 
 cover the stewpan, and cook them for five min- 
 utes. Moisten with the stock and sauce. Stir 
 well and let simmer for ten minutes. Skim well, 
 strain or tammy, season to taste, add the red 
 currant jelly, heat up and serve. 
 
82 THE BOOK OF SAUCES 
 
 Seville Sauce: Reduce some Demi-glace sauce 
 with strained orange juice and add the finely 
 chopped rind of a Seville orange. This sauce is 
 usually served with roast or braised ducks or 
 game. 
 
 Sharp Sauce: Peel and chop a small onion. 
 Heat up in a saucepan 2 tablespoonfuls of salad 
 oil and fry in it the onion to a golden color, 
 then add an ounce of flour and let brown nicely; 
 next put in 1 teaspoonful of crushed pepper- 
 corns, 3 preserved mushrooms and a tomato 
 (cut up small); add gradually a pint of stock, 
 and stir until the mixture boils, then add 2 
 tablespoonfuls of vinegar and a few savory 
 herbs. Simmer at least 15 minutes longer, then 
 strain; re-heat, skim, season to taste with salt 
 and pepper, including a tiny pinch of cayenne, 
 and serve hot. 
 
 Shrimp Sauce (Sauce aux crevettes): % pint 
 white fish sauce, }4 pint picked shrimps, vinegar, 
 1 teaspoonful anchovy essence, 1 small blade of 
 mace, 1 bay-leaf. 
 
 Boil the shells and heads of the shrimps in 
 enough vinegar to cover; to this add a small 
 blade of mace and a bay-leaf. Strain the liquor 
 into the sauce, add the picked shrimps, and boil 
 up. Finish with a teaspoonful of anchovy es- 
 sence, and serve with boiled or grilled fish. 
 
 Shrimp Sauce (No. 2): Take 1 pint of milk, 
 1% ozs. of butter, 1 oz. flour, % pint of shrimps. 
 
 Pick the shrimps, and put the skins into the 
 milk, allow this to boil, and then strain. Melt 
 the butter, stir in the flour, cook a little and add 
 the milk gradually; keep stirring till it boils and 
 cook for ten minutes. Add the shrimps just 
 before serving, and if liked a few drops of 
 essence of anchovy. 
 
 Sicilienne Sauce: Eeduce some Espagnole 
 sauce with Marsala or Sherry, season sparingly 
 with cayenne pepper; add some thinly cut rings 
 of onions fried in butter just before serving. 
 
 Soubise Sauce: 2 onions, 1 gill white stock, % 
 pint Bechamel sauce, white pepper, salt, a pinch 
 sugar. 
 
 Peel the onions, parboil in salted water, strain, 
 
THE BOOK OF SAUCES 83 
 
 drain, and chop very finely. Return to the stew- 
 pan, and stir over the fire until all moisture 
 is absorbed, then add the stock and cook till 
 tender. Now add the sauce and reduce to the 
 desired consistency, season with pepper, salt, 
 and a pinch of castor sugar. 
 
 Soubise Sauce No. 3: Peel, slice and blanch 
 3 onions, then cook them in half a pint of milk, 
 half an ounce or. butter, a little pepper and salt, 
 a bunch of herbs, thyme, parsley and bayleaf, 
 and half a pint of wine sauce. Boil slowly for 
 about 20 minutes, then remove the herbs, and 
 pass the onions and sauce through a fine sieve. 
 Reheat the sauce in a bain-marie, and stir in 
 two tablespoonfuls of cream just before serving. 
 
 Soubise Tomato Sauce: Peel and slice a large 
 Spanish onion, and cook it in white stock or sea- 
 soned water until tender, and the liquid has 
 nearly evaporated, then rub all through a fine 
 sieve. Add one-half the quantity of hot cream, 
 and an equal quantity of hot tomato sauce; sea- 
 son with salt and pepper to taste. Eeheat the 
 sauce, but do not let it boil again. 
 
 Soyer Sauce: Prepare a white fish sauce or 
 Bechamel "Maigre," and flavor it with finely 
 chopped savory herbs, butter blended shallots and 
 lemon juice. Finish the sauce with a liaison of 
 egg yolks and cream. 
 
 Spadacini Sauce Required: 1 gill white wine, 
 y 2 gill vinegar, 2 shallots, a few sprigs of pars- 
 ley, 2 sprigs of basil, 1 teaspoonful crushed mig- 
 nonette pepper, 1 tablespoonful white sauce 
 Bechamel or allemande, 1 tablespoonful tomato 
 sauce, 1 small terrine foie-gras (about 3 oz.) 
 freed from fat, 1 yolk of egg, 1 oz. butter, and 
 2 pinches of cayenne. 
 
 Put the wine, vinegar, shallot (chopped finely) 
 herbs, and peppercorns in a stewpan, cover, and 
 reduce to one half of its original quantity. Add 
 the two kinds of sauces, boil up, and pass 
 through the tammy. Pound the foie-gras in a 
 mortar, add the yolk of egg and the butter. Rub 
 this through a sieve and incorporate, in small 
 quantities, with the sauce. Whisk the sauce 
 en bain-marie whilst this is being done. Season 
 
84 THE BOOK OF SAUCES 
 
 with a pinch of cayenne, and use as directed. The 
 sauce must not be allowed to boil, and when 
 finished should be similar in consistency to 
 Bearnaise. 
 
 Stragotte Sauce: This is a rich brown game 
 sauce with the addition of tomato pulp and 
 madeira wine, flavored with celery puree and 
 parsley roots, shallots, cloves and mace. This 
 sauce is generally served with Italian dishes. 
 
 Supreme Sauce: 1 oz. butter, 1 oz. flour, 1 pint 
 chicken stock, 1 small onion, 1 clove, % bay- 
 leaf, 3 oz. fresh butter, 1 tablespoonful cream, 
 1 yolk of egg, % lemon. 
 
 Make a white roux with the butter and flour, 
 and dilute with the chicken stock. Boil up, add 
 the onion, clove, half bay-leaf, and let it simmer 
 for fifteen minutes. Skim well, and work in 
 the butter, cream, yolk of egg, and the juice 
 of half a lemon. Whisk well, and pass through 
 a tammy cloth. 
 
 Supreme Sauce (No. 2): Put an ounce of 
 butter in a stewpan; when melted, stir in an 
 ounce of flour; allow it to cook a little. Add 
 gradually a pint of well seasoned chicken stock, 
 stir until it boils, and allow to simmer for fifteen 
 minutes. Take off the scum, add a gill of cream, 
 a teaspoonful of lemon juice, a pinch of salt, 
 and a pinch of grated nutmeg. Pass through a 
 tammy cloth or napkin, return to a clean stew- 
 pan, and finish with half an ounce of fresh but 
 ter and a little chicken essence or veal glaze. 
 
 Swedish Sauce (Sauce Suedoise Hot) : Make 
 a Bechamel or other white sauce, flavor it 
 with grated horse-radish and chilli vinegar, 
 and serve with roast poultry or grilled meats. 
 
 Swedish Sauce (Cold): 1 gill mayonnaise, 
 14 gill cream, 1 teaspoonful of French mustard, 
 and 2 tablespoonfuls finely grated horse-radish. 
 
 Whip the cream, stir in gradually the may- 
 onnaise, grated horse-radish, and mustard; add 
 a pinch of castor sugar, and a little salt if 
 needed. 
 
 This sauce is especially suitable for salads 
 and served with roast game, etc. 
 
THE BOOK OF SAUCES 85 
 
 Tartare Sauce: 2 yolks of eggs, cayenne, mus- 
 tard, 1 pint salad oil, V gill tarragon vinegar, 
 Bechamel or veloutee sauce, 2 tablespoonfuls 
 chopped gherkins, 1 tablespoonful of chopped 
 capers, 1 tablespoonful of chopped parsley, % 
 teaspoonful of mixed tarragon and chervil finely 
 chopped. 
 
 Put the yolks of eggs in a basin, place it in 
 a shallow pan containing some crushed ice, add 
 a teaspoonful of salt, a good pinch of white 
 pepper, a pinch of cayenne, and a teaspoonful 
 of mustard; stir well together, and add, gradu- 
 ally, the salad oil and tarragon vinegar. When 
 the sauce is smooth and creamy stir in a good 
 tablespoonful of cold Bechamel or veloutee sauce, 
 add the gherkins, capers, parsley, tarragon, and 
 chervil. Do not mix the gherkins, capers, etc., 
 until the sauce is finished, as it is likely to cause 
 the sauce to turn if put in too soon. A few 
 drops of lemon juice may be added if the sauce 
 is found too thick. 
 
 Texas Sauce (Sauce Texienne): Prepare a 
 curry sauce, mix it with a very little saffron and 
 finely chopped parsley, flavor with lemon juice, 
 and finish with a liaison of fresh butter and 
 cream. 
 
 Tomato Sauce (Sauce Tomate) : 1% pint stock, 
 1 oz. streaky bacon, 1 oz. butter, 1 small onion 
 finely chopped, 1 Ib. tomatoes, 1 oz. flour, pepper- 
 corns, herbs, parsley, 1 oz. fresh butter, castor 
 sugar. 
 
 Put into a stewpan the butter and onion, fry 
 a little, and add the tomatoes cut into slices. 
 Stir over the fire a little longer, then add the 
 flour previously mixed with a little cold stock 
 or gravy. Stir the stock in gradually, add a 
 few peppercorns, a few sprigs of savory herbs 
 and parsley, and allow all to simmer for half an 
 hour. Eemove the herbs, rub the sauce through 
 a sieve, return to the stewpan, season with salt, 
 a pinch of castor sugar and pepper, whisk the 
 butter, and serve as required. A tablespoonful 
 of cream can be used instead of butter, but the 
 sauce should not be allowed to boil again after 
 the butter or cream has been added. 
 
86 THE BOOK OF SAUCES 
 
 Tomato Sauce (No. 2): Cut half a pound of 
 ripe tomatoes into slices, also half a small peeled 
 onion, and cook them for about 20 minutes with 
 a teaspoonful of castor sugar, a few peppercorns, 
 half a bayleaf and half a teaspoonful of salt. 
 Rub through a sieve or strainer, and add a pint 
 of brown stock. Fry in an ounce of butter % 
 ounce of flour, and stir until well browned, then 
 pour in gradually whilst stirring, the hot tomato 
 liquid. Boil up, skim, and let simmer for about 
 15 minutes, then serve. 
 
 Tomato Cream Sauce (Sauce Creme a la To- 
 mate): 2 oz. butter, 1 large tomato, 1 bay-leaf, 
 6 peppercorns. 
 
 Cut up the tomato, put in a stewpan, add the 
 bay-leaf, salt, and peppercorns, reduce to half, 
 add a piece of butter, and when drawn pass 
 through a tammy. Eeturn to a small stewpan, 
 and work in remainder of the butter. Do not 
 put near too hot a place or else it will go oily. 
 
 Tortue Sauce (Turtle Sauce) : Prepare a rich 
 brown sauce, using turtle stock as a basis, and 
 blend with finely chopped shallots, a little 
 anchovy paste or essence, lemon juice and sherry, 
 reduce and add finely chopped or grated lemon 
 rind, season with very little cayenne pepper, and 
 serve. 
 
 Valentine Sauce: This sauce is prepared in 
 the same way as Suedoise Sauce, adding a tea- 
 spoonful of tarragon vinegar and substituting 
 the French mustard with half that quantity of 
 English mustard. 
 
 Valoise Sauce: Chop finely 3 to 4 peeled 
 shallots, and reduce with a glass of white wine, 
 then add some meat extract or liquefied meat 
 glaze, work in 2 ounces of fresh butter, 3 to 4 
 egg yolks, and last of all a liaison of cream. 
 Season with salt and pepper to taste, and add 
 some finely chopped parsley, also about a table- 
 spoonful of Worcestershire sauce. Whisk in a 
 bainmarie pan until quite warm, then serve. 
 
 Veloutee Sauce (Velvet Sauce): 1 oz. flour, 
 2 oz. butter, 1 pint of veal stock, % gill mush- 
 room liquor, % gill of cream, 1 small bouquet 
 garni, 6 peppercorns, salt, nutmeg, lemon juice. 
 
THE BOOK OF SAUCES 87 
 
 Cook the flour with an ounce of butter to- 
 gether without browning, stir in the stock and 
 mushroom liquor, add the bouquet and crushed 
 peppercorns, boil slowly for twenty minutes, stir 
 frequently, and skim. Pass through a sieve or 
 tammy keep on the side of the stove, put a few 
 tiny pieces of butter on top to keep from form- 
 ing a skin. Just before using it add the cream. 
 Stir well and let it get thoroughly hot without 
 boiling, season with salt if necessary, a pinch 
 of nutmeg, and about a teaspoonful of lemon 
 juice. The sauce is now ready for use, and will 
 serve as a foundation for any white sauce or 
 as a veloutee by itself. The cream may be 
 omitted if used as a foundation sauce. 
 
 Venison Sauce: Put into a saucepan half a 
 pint of good brown sauce, a dessertspoonful of 
 red currant jelly, half a glass of port wine and 
 the juice of half a lemon. Boil up and season 
 with salt and pepper. Next add a dessertspoon- 
 ful of meat glaze, boil up again, then skim, 
 strain and serve. 
 
 Venitienne Sauce: % pint allemande or Be"- 
 chamel sauce, 1 oz. lobster butter, 1 dessert- 
 spoonful meat glaze, the juice of half a lemon, 
 pepper, nutmeg, and salt, 1 teaspoonful finely 
 chopped tarragon leaves. 
 
 Heat up the sauce, stir in the lobster butter 
 and meat glaze when required for serving, add 
 lemon juice, sufficient pepper, grated nutmeg, 
 and salt to taste, and, last of all, the chopped 
 tarragon. 
 
 Vert-Pre Sauce (Green Herb Sauce) : 2 shallots, 
 3 oz. butter, 2 large tablespoonfuls white-wine 
 vinegar, y 2 pint veloutee (see above) or alle- 
 mande sauce, a small handful spinach, 6 sprigs 
 of parsley, 2 to 3 sprigs chives, 3 sprigs tarra- 
 gon, very little chervil, salt and pepper. 
 
 Peel and chop finely the shallots, put them in 
 a stewpan with the vinegar and 1 oz. of butter, 
 cover with the lid of the stewpan, and allow to 
 reduce to about half its original quantity. Now 
 add the white sauce (veloutee for preference) 
 and let simmer for a few minutes. Wash, pick, 
 and blanch (parboil) the spinach and remainder 
 
88 THE BOOK OF SAUCES 
 
 of herbs; drain and cool, press out all the water, 
 and pound in a mortar with about 1 oz. of but- 
 ter. Eub this through a fine sieve, and mix it 
 with the sauce as above prepared. Whisk in 
 the remainder of the butter, season to taste, and 
 serve. 
 
 Verte glacee Sauce (Iced Green Sauce) : 1 me- 
 dium-sized cucumber, a few sprigs chervil and 
 tarragon (blanched), spinach greening, 1 dessert- 
 spoonful Orleans vinegar, 1 gill aspic, 1 gill 
 cream, 1% gill mayonnaise, a pinch of castor 
 sugar, salt and pepper to taste. 
 
 Peel thinly the cucumber, cut it in half, re- 
 move the seed portion, then slice, and cook in 
 slightly salted water till tender. Strain off the 
 water and rub the cucumber through a fine sieve. 
 Chop finely the herbs, and add this and the vine- 
 gar, with a little spinach greening, to the cu- 
 cumber puree. Whisk the cream a little, and stir 
 in the above when sufficiently cool. Incorporate 
 by degrees the mayonnaise and the aspic jelly 
 (previously dissolved, but not hot). Stir over 
 the ice with a whisk for a few minutes, season 
 to taste, and fill up an oblong biscuit-tin; seal 
 it with paper and lid, and place it in a charged 
 ice-cave for 1% hour. To serve, unmold as 
 usual, cut the shape into neat slices or cubes, 
 and serve with grilled fish or meat, etc. 
 
 Villeroi Sauce: Prepare a Bechamel or other 
 rich white sauce, and mix it with finely chopped 
 cooked ham or tongue or both, and finish with a 
 liaison of yolks of eggs and fresh butter or 
 cream. 
 
 Vin Blanc Sauce (White Wine Sauce) : % pint 
 white stock, % gill chablis or sauterne, % oz. 
 flour, 2 oz. butter, 2 yolks of eggs, y 2 lemon, 
 salt, white pepper, some fish liquor if the sauce 
 be used for fish. 
 
 Melt 1 oz. butter, stir in the flour, cook a little, 
 dilute with seasoned stock, fish liquor, and wine; 
 boil up and cook for fifteen minutes. Add gradu- 
 ally the remainder of the butter bit by bit, also 
 the yolks of egg, one at a time, season with a 
 little salt, a pinch of mignonette or white pepper, 
 and add a few drops of lemon juice. Strain 
 
THE BOOK OF SAUCES 89 
 
 through a tammy cloth, and use as sauce for 
 dressed fish, etc. Mostly served with soles, 
 salmon, trout, and whiting. 
 
 White Wine Sauce (Sauce au Vin blanc) : Put 
 2 ounces of butter into a saucepan with a little 
 parsley, a small peeled, sliced and blanched onion, 
 one or two preserved mushrooms (champignons), 
 previously tossed in a little lemon juice, all 
 finely minced; toss them in a stewpan well over 
 the fire, but do not let them get brown, add an 
 ounce of flour, add a pint of stock and a glass of 
 chablis or sauterne; season with salt, pepper and 
 mace; boil up, skim and simmer gently for about 
 half an hour, skim, strain and serve. 
 
 Vinaigrette Sauce: 3 tablespoonfuls tarragon 
 vinegar, 1 teaspoonful made mustard, olive oil, 
 1 teasponful chopped gherkins, 1 teaspoonful 
 chopped capers, % teaspoonful chopped parsley, 
 % teaspoonful chopped shallots. 
 
 Mix in a basin the tarragon vinegar, mustard 
 (French or English), and % teaspoonful of salt. 
 To this add 6 or 8 tablespoonfuls of best olive 
 oil, the parsley, shallots, gherkins and capers. 
 Mix well before serving. 
 
 Victoria Sauce (for Fish): y 2 Ib. fresh butter, 
 4 yolks of eggs, 1 teaspoonful tarragon vinegar, 1 
 tablespoonful lemon juice, 1 teaspoonful chilli 
 vinegar, % gill fish stock, ^ oz. lobster butter, 
 pepper, salt, and nutmeg. 
 
 Cut the butter into small squares, put half 
 the quantity in a stewpan, place the stewpan in 
 a vessel or large stewpan containing boiling 
 water. Stir in the yolks of eggs by means of 
 a whisk, add lemon juice, tarragon, and chilli 
 vinegar, also the stock reduced to half its quan- 
 tity. Season with pepper, salt, and a pinch of 
 grated nutmeg. Finish by whisking in the re- 
 mainder of the pieces of fresh and the lobster 
 butter. The water in which the stewpan is 
 placed should be kept at boiling point during 
 the process, but on no account must the sauce be 
 allowed to boil. 
 
 Wargrave Sauce: Mix or blend with a pint of 
 Demi-glaze or other rich brown sauce a dessert- 
 spoonful of red currant jelly, a tablespoonful 
 
90 THE BOOK OF SAUCES 
 
 each of Worcestershire sauce, mushroom ketchup, 
 and tomato puree. When well mixed stir in 
 about a tablespoonful each of the following: 
 pickled gherkins, preserved mushrooms, cooked 
 ham and tongue, all cut into very fine Julienne 
 strips or thin shreds. 
 
 Watercress Sauce (Sauce Ruisseau) : y 2 bunch 
 watercress, % tablespoonful capers, 1^ oz. of 
 butter, 1 gill chicken stock, ^ pint veloutee 
 sauce or allemande, 1 hard-boiled egg, seasoning. 
 
 Wash, pick, and blanch the cresses, put them 
 in the mortar with the egg, capers, and butter, 
 pound until fine, and rub through a sieve. Put 
 the sauce and stock in a stewpan, let it boil up 
 together, skim, and reduce a little. Whisk in, 
 by degrees, the green puree. Season to taste 
 with pepper and salt, strain through a tammy 
 cloth, return to the stewpan, and keep hot in a 
 bain-marie until required for serving. Do not 
 allow the sauce to boil again after it has been 
 strained, or else it will become oily. 
 
 White Sauce (Sauce blanche): Dissolve an 
 ounce of butter in a sauce pan, add one ounce 
 of flour; stir over the fire for a few minutes, 
 just long enough to cook the flour, without allow- 
 ing to brown. Stir in a pint of boiling milk; 
 add a small onion stuck with a clove, ten white 
 peppercorns, half a bay-leaf, a sliced carrot, a 
 pinch of salt, and a little grated nutmeg. Stir 
 until it boils, and allow to simmer for about 
 fifteen minutes. Pass through a sieve or tammy 
 cloth or else a fine strainer, and return to the 
 stewpan. Lastly stir in with a small piece of 
 fresh butter, and half a teaspoonful of lemon 
 juice. 
 
 White Sauce (Simple): 1 oz. butter, 1 oz. 
 flour, % pint milk, y 2 gill white stock or water, 
 y 2 bay-leaf, salt and white pepper. 
 
 Melt the butter in a small saucepan, stir in 
 the flour, and cook for a few minutes without 
 allowing the flour to brown; dilute with the 
 milk, stir till it boils, then add the stock and 
 bay-leaf, and let simmer for at least ten min- 
 utes. Eemove the bav-leaf, season to taste, and 
 strain. 
 
THE BOOK OF SAUCES 91 
 
 White Fish Sauce: 1 oz. butter, % oz. flour, 
 1 gill milk, 2 tablespoonfuls cream, 1 small piece 
 of mace, % bay -leaf, % teaspoonful lemon juice, 
 salt and pepper, bones and trimmings of fish. 
 
 Boil the milk with some fish-bones, bay-leaf, 
 and a tiny piece of mace, together with y 2 gill 
 of water. Melt the butter in a stewpan, add the 
 flour, and stir a few moments over the fire with- 
 out allowing the flour to take color. Stir about 
 a gill of milk as above prepared into this, allow 
 it to come to the boil whilst stirring, and let 
 simmer for ten minutes; take out the bay-leaf 
 and mace and strain, heat up again, add the 
 cream, lemon juice, and seasoning, and use as 
 directed. 
 
 Xavier Sauce (Fish Sauce): y 2 bunch water- 
 cress, a few sprigs of fennel, % pint milk, fish- 
 bones, essence of fish for which the sauce is 
 prepared, 1% oz. butter, y% oz. flour, seasoning, 
 lemon juice. 
 
 Remove the stalks from the cress and fennel, 
 put the leaves in a stewpan with the milk and 
 fish-bones, previously cut into small pieces (add 
 a tiny piece of soda), boil until the leaves are 
 done. Strain and let cool, put the cooked herbs 
 in a mortar, and pound with half the butter, 
 then rub through a sieve. Cook the flour in 
 the remainder of the butter, without taking 
 color, dilute with the milk in which the cress, 
 etc., have boiled. Stir until it boils, add the 
 fish essence, and let the whole simmer for ten 
 minutes. Strain, return to the stewpan, boil up, 
 add the green puree, and cook a few minutes 
 longer. Season with a few drops of lemon juice, 
 pepper, and salt, add a little cream or stock if 
 found too thick, and keep in the bain-marie until 
 required. 
 
 Yorkshire Sauce (Sauce York) : Heat up somo 
 Espagnole sauce, then add finely shredded or 
 grated orange rind, red currant jelly, port wine, 
 orange juice, and a little ground cinnamon (care- 
 ful blending of these ingredients is essential), 
 reduce well and season to taste with salt and 
 pepper. The sauce is served with boiled ham or 
 pickled pork. 
 
92 THE BOOK OF SAUCES 
 
 Zingara Sauce: Eeduce half a gill port wine 
 with a gill tomato puree, add a gill " Salmi 
 sauce, " and reduce with half a gill of rich 
 stock; then strain on to a stewpan, containing 
 finely-shredded ham, tongue, mushrooms, and 
 truffles, about 1 dessertspoonful of each, and 
 a few very fine shreds of orange rind. Boil up 
 for about five minutes and serve. 
 
 SALAD SAUCES. 
 
 Mayonnaise: Of all the cold sauces used either 
 with meat or fish or to season salads the best 
 known, the most popular, and the most agreeable 
 to the palate is without doubt Mayonnaise. 
 Spanish sauce is the fundamental type of brown 
 sauces; veloute is the prototype of white sauces, 
 and Mayonnaise is the sauce from which the cold 
 sauces are derived. Phileas Gilbert in one of his 
 chronicles says: "Mayonnaise is the planet 
 around which numerous satellites gravitate, the 
 highway from which many paths run off. " The 
 ingredients which enter into the composition of 
 Mayonnaise properly so-called are few in number, 
 easily manipulated, and successful preparation is 
 simple enough if certain conditions are observed, 
 otherwise the result is disastrous. The first of 
 these rules is to use first-class ingredients, espe- 
 cially the oil, which is the soul of the sauce. 
 The vinegar also must be the best possible, and 
 a good brand of mustard chosen. As for the 
 pepper it should be ground immediately before 
 use. The Mayonnaise of course takes the color 
 of the chopped herbs that are used to season it; 
 thus with a little chervil and tarragon it be- 
 comes "sauce verte" (green sauce); with 
 chopped truffles it is "la sauce demi-deuil" (half 
 mourning) ; it takes the name of ' ' sauce Car- 
 dinale" when lobster coral is added, and it is 
 called Portuguese when mixed with tomato; and 
 "indienne" when some curry is put into it. The 
 simple Mayonnaise, however, consists merely of 
 oil, vinegar, pepper, and salt, a little mustard, 
 and the yolk of an egg. There has been much 
 

 THE BOOK OF SAUCES 93 
 
 argument as to how the name Mayonnaise came 
 to be given to this sauce. One version is that it 
 is a corruption of Bayonnaise, from the town of 
 Bayonne, where it originated. Another version 
 is that the name is really ' ' Mahonnaise, ' ' and to 
 have been given in honor of Marshal Richelieu 
 after the taking of Port Mahon, the capital of 
 Minorca, which the Duke made himself master 
 of after having beaten the English. Another 
 version attributes the invention of this sauce to 
 Mayenne, and insists that the name was orig- 
 inally " Mayennaise. " Careme says that we 
 ought to say ' ' Magnonnaise, ' ' and that it comes 
 from the verb "manier" from the energetic stir- 
 ring the sauce undergoes in course of preparation. 
 He contradicts this himself in another chapter of 
 his book, where, in enumerating a list of dishes 
 named after the localities where they originated, 
 he cites the word "Magnonnaise" as being de- 
 rived from the town of Magnon, although at the 
 same time there is no such town in France. The 
 philologists dispute every point except that the 
 sauce is most stimulating, the most unctuous, and 
 the most appetizing of all cold sauces. 
 
 Plain Mayonnaise: The making of a Mayon- 
 naise is the terror of unskilled cooks. To believe 
 them, there are all sorts of difficulties in making 
 it. The work is long and troublesome, and the 
 success of the result is always problematic. Some 
 pretend that it can only be made over ice, and 
 that the sauce must always be stirred the same 
 way. (Both these are gross errors.) It is pref- 
 erable to operate in the warmth rather than in 
 complete cold, as the oil in congealing is an 
 obstacle in the assimilation of the liquid with 
 the yolk and vinegar and the sauce rapidly 
 decomposes. 
 
 As for the belief that the spoon or whisk 
 should be turned one way rather than the other, 
 it is too ridiculous to trouble ourselves with. The 
 recipe herewith may be considered infallible, not 
 only because the ingredients are different to those 
 ordinarily employed, but because of the method 
 of operating and mixing the ingredients. 
 
 Put into a round bowl the yolks of two eggs, 
 
94 THE BOOK OF SAUCES 
 
 lialf a teaspoonful of salt, half this quantity of 
 white pepper, a teaspoonful of mustard, and the 
 same of vinegar. Mix these ingredients vigor- 
 ously with a small metal whisk, add the oil grad- 
 ually without stopping stirring. Great care must 
 be taken not to allow the Mayonnaise to become 
 too thick. This can be avoided by adding a few 
 drops of vinegar or cold water. The method of 
 mixing the yolks with the mustard, vinegar, salt, 
 and pepper to begin with is the main point of 
 the recipe, and the reason why success is certain, 
 as the mixture assimilates easily with the oil, 
 and it is not even necessary to add it drop by 
 drop, but it may be put in spoonful by spoonful 
 without fear. The principal advantage of the 
 method of operating is that sufficient Mayonnaise 
 for six people can be prepared in five minutes, 
 whereas the old way would take a quarter of an 
 hour. The use of a whisk in place of a wooden 
 spoon is of great importance. 
 
 Green Mayonnaise: Take a large sprig of 
 parsley, one of chervil, chives, and tarragon. 
 Wash, blanch, drain, and refreshen. Squeeze out 
 the moisture in a napkin, and put them into a 
 mortar with the yolks of three hard eggs, salt, 
 pepper, two anchovies, and a little mustard. 
 Pound, adding oil and vinegar until the puree 
 becomes smooth. Then pass it through a hair 
 sieve by the aid of a palet knife. Mix this puree 
 with Mayonnaise. 
 
 Tomato Mayonnaise: Put the yolks of 2 raw 
 eggs into a mixing basin, add a pinch of salt, 
 and stir in gradually a gill of salad oil. Mix a 
 teaspoonful of tarragon vinegar and one of chilli 
 vinegar, with the same quantity of French vine- 
 gar. Work this in by degrees until the sauce 
 assumes a rich creamy consistency. Mix about a 
 gill of tomato puree with the Mayonnaise, and 
 place it on the ice for about an hour, then serve 
 with cold meat or use for a cold entree. 
 
 Mayonnaise aux Fines Herbes: Prepare a 
 Mayonnaise with two egg yolks, and when it is 
 made and seasoned add a little tarragon, chervil, 
 and parsley, all finely chopped. Mix well and 
 
THE BOOK OF SAUCES 95 
 
 Mayonnaise a la Portugaise: All sauces called 
 Portugaise are usually red, and colored by means 
 of tomatoes. Add to the Mayonnaise a table- 
 spoonful of tomato pulp previously passed 
 through a fine sieve. Mix well and serve. 
 
 Mayonnaise a la Cardinale: This sauce takes 
 its name from the scarlet color communicated to 
 Mayonnaise by the addition of crayfish or lob- 
 ster coral. Pass the coral through a hair sieve, 
 mix with the sauce, and season with a little 
 cayenne or paprika. 
 
 Caper Mayonnaise: Mix a tablespoonful or 
 two of finely chopped capers to half a pint of 
 Mayonnaise. 
 
 Truffle Mayonnaise: This is a Mayonnaise to 
 which finely chopped truffles have been added. 
 This preparation is known as demi-deuil sauce. 
 
 Mayonnaise a la Gelee: Put into a basin some 
 almost cold aspic jelly. Mix this with the same 
 quantity of olive oil and three tablespoonfuls of 
 vinegar. Add a teaspoonful of chopped fine 
 herbs, salt, and pepper. Stir the sauce on ice 
 with an egg whisk until it commences to thicken. 
 Then take it off the ice and whisk it a few 
 minutes longer. This Mayonnaise is usually em- 
 ployed with cold fish or fowl. It is lighter than 
 Mayonnaise made with egg, but is less appre- 
 ciated. 
 
 Cumberland Sauce: This sauce is much in 
 favor in England, and is served with cold game 
 or galantine of boar's head. Chop up two shal- 
 lots and put them into a stewpan with the juice 
 of an orange and a lemon cut into fine Julienne. 
 Boil in water for twenty minutes and drain. 
 Then put the juice and shallots into a basin with 
 six spoonfuls of currant jelly, three of port wine, 
 a pinch of ground ginger, a little cayenne, and 
 the juice of the lemon and orange. 
 
 Sauce a la Diable: This sauce is served and 
 eaten with grilled meat. Chop three peeled 
 shallots and half a clove of garlic, and boil in a 
 small pan with two spoonfuls of vinegar and a 
 sprinkling of cayenne for ten minutes. Add a 
 little tomato sauce and Worcester sauce, and 
 
96 THE BOOK OF SAUCES 
 
 allow to cool. Mix this with, a rather thick 
 Mayonnaise. 
 
 Pepper Sauce: Pepper sauce properly so- 
 called is served hot with certain entrees, and 
 usually with braised fillet of beef, but the cold 
 pepper sauce eaten with artichokes and aspara- 
 gus is simply made with oil, vinegar, pepper, 
 and salt, to which a little mustard may be added. 
 
 Ravigote Sauce: The name of ravigote was 
 formerly gi-ven to a mixture of herbs chopped 
 finely, composed of parsley, chervil, tarragon, 
 chives, pimpernel, and capers. This is the origin 
 of ravigote sauce, which is a simple vinaigrette 
 seasoned with these herbs and with the addition 
 of chopped or pounded yolk of hard-boiled egg. 
 This sauce, in the old days, was known as 
 1 1 grebiche. ' ' 
 
 Remoulade Sauce: Remoulade is often con- 
 founded with ravigote, although the sauces are 
 entirely different. Bemoulade differs from other 
 cold sauces insomuch as mustard is its charac- 
 teristic basis, and it is flavored with pounded 
 anchovies. Chop up finely three shallots and fry 
 them in oil, stirring them until they take a light 
 color. Then drain and let them cool. Chop up 
 some parsley, chervil, and pimpernel. Put these 
 herbs in the corner of a napkin, and steep them 
 in boiling water. Press out the moisture by 
 wringing the linen, and put the herbs into a 
 bowl with the chopped shallot, two teaspoonfuls 
 of tarragon mustard, salt, and pepper. Add oil 
 drop by drop, stirring with a wooden spoon or 
 with an egg whisk, and finally put in a sufficient 
 quantity of vinegar. Add the oil to the mustard 
 very carefully, otherwise the sauce will decom- 
 pose. 
 
 Bemoulade Sauce a I'lndienne: Pound in a 
 small mortar the yolks of four hard-boiled eggs, 
 adding y 2 pint of oil and % gill of vinegar, 
 drop by drop. Add two teaspoonfuls of curry 
 paste, season, and pass through a sieve. This is 
 used with poultry or game salads. It should 
 have a very pronounced yellow color. 
 
 Tartare Sauce: Mix the yolks of three hard- 
 boiled eggs in a small basin, then add a tea- 
 
THE BOOK OP SAUCES 97 
 
 spoonful of French mustard and as much. English 
 mustard. Season with salt, pepper, and a spoon- 
 ful of vinegar. Mix with an egg whisk and 
 allow the oil to run from the bottle in a thin 
 thread, whisking .constantly untdl the sauce 
 thickens. It can be thinned with vinegar if 
 necessary. Add finally capers, chopped gherkins, 
 chervil, tarragon, and a sprinkling of cayenne. 
 If these instructions are followed to the letter 
 the sauce should not turn. Either hard-boiled 
 or raw yolks of eggs may be used. 
 
 Vinaigrette: This is usually served with 
 asparagus and globe artichokes. It should not 
 be prepared in advance. As a rule each person 
 makes it on his own plate. It is simply com- 
 posed of oil, vinegar, salt and pepper, to which 
 a little mustard may be added; chopped parsley, 
 gherkins, etc., can also be mixed with it if liked. 
 
 ( l, FRUIT SAUCES. 
 
 The continental custom of serving fruit sauces 
 as an accompaniment with certain fish, roast, 
 braised or boiled meat, roast game and poultry 
 is becoming fashionable in other countries. 
 
 Apple Sauce (served with roast pork, goose, or 
 duck) : Peel and core 1 Ib. of cooking apples 
 and slice thinly, put them into a stewpan with 
 'an ounce of sugar, and a teacupful of cold 
 water. Cook the apples until they are tender 
 and will mash easily; they require from three- 
 quarters of an hour to an hour to cook. Pass 
 the fruit through a wire sieve, return the sauce 
 to the stewpan, stir in about an ounce of butter, 
 and serve hot. 
 
 Apple Sauce (Another Way): Peel, core and 
 slice 6 large sour cooking apples and cook them 
 till tender with % pint rich gravy, rub through 
 a fine wire sieve and add a tiny pinch of cayenne. 
 
 Brown Apple Sauce: Peel, core and slice 
 thinly about 1 Ib. of cooking apples, put them in 
 a stewpan with about a pint of brown stock or 
 gravy, and let them boil until the fruit is ten- 
 der. Stir them and mash them from time to 
 
98 THE BOOK OF SAUCES 
 
 time, and when they are mashed add half a 
 saltspoonful of cayenne pepper. Serve hot. 
 
 Cherry Sauce (Served with Eoast Snipe and 
 Woodcocks) : Eemove the stems from y 2 Ib. of 
 cooking cherries, stone them, wash them and 
 drain them from the water into a stewpan, add 
 an ounce of sugar and the juice of half a lemon. 
 Let the cherries stew gently for three-quarters 
 of an hour. Serve them hot in a sauce boat. 
 
 Cranberry Sauce (Served with Eoast Turkey, 
 Duck or Game): Wash * Ib. of cranberries, 
 then put them in a stewpan, add sufficient water 
 to cover them, and an ounce of sugar. Allow 
 the cranberries to stew for about half an hour, 
 and serve when cold. 
 
 Damson Sauce: To a pint of vinegar add a 
 pound of loaf sugar, half an ounce of cloves, and 
 3 quarts of damsons. Boil all together till the 
 fruit is tender, then pass through a fine sieve, 
 and bottle and cork at once. j ' 
 
 Gooseberry Sauce (Served with Mackerel and 
 Eoast Pork, and Sometimes with Boiled Lamb or 
 Mutton): Top and tail a pint of green, unripe 
 gooseberries, wash them, and place them in a 
 stewpan, add an ounce of sugar, a gill of cold 
 water. Cover the stewpan and cook slowly for 
 about half an hour; shake the pan from time to 
 time to prevent the fruit from sticking. When 
 the fruit is quite soft, pass through a sieve, and 
 serve the sauce hot. 
 
 Orange Sauce (Served with Eoast Wild Duck, 
 Widgeon and Teal) : Take half a pint of well 
 flavored stock or gravy (free from fat), add the 
 grated rind and juice of a Seville orange (fail- 
 ing Seville oranges use the ordinary sour 
 oranges), a small glass of sherry, and half a salt- 
 spoonful of cayenne pepper. Mix these ingre- 
 dients and put them in a saucepan. Let the 
 sauce simmer for about 10 minutes and serve hot. 
 
 Orange Sauce (Another Way) : Put 2 table- 
 spoonfuls of red currant jelly into a small basin, 
 and place it in a vessel containing boiling water; 
 when the jelly has melted, add the grated rind 
 and juice of a Seville orange, the juice of half 
 
THE BOOK OF SAUCES 99 
 
 a lemon, half a teaspoonful of salt, half a salt- 
 spoonful of cayenne, and a tablespoonful of port 
 wine. Mix the ingredients well, and serve the 
 sauce hot or cold. 
 
 Oporto Sauce: Put into a clean saucepan the 
 following ingredients: a wineglassful of port 
 wine, a dessertspoonful of brandy, and a table- 
 spoonful of red currant jelly, a dozen stoned 
 Morella cherries, a small apple, peeled, cored, 
 and cut up small, and 3 French plums. Boil up 
 slowly and take out the fruit when cooked. Mix 
 a teaspoonful of corn or rice flour and a tea- 
 spoonful of castor sugar with a tablespoonful of 
 port wine; add this to the first liquor, and boil. 
 Pass the fruit through a fine sieve and add to 
 the sauce. Serve it iced or very cold. 
 
 Raisin Sauce (Served with Eoast or Braised 
 Meat) : Stone and wash 2 ounces of raisins, and 
 boil them in a stewpan in half a pint of water 
 for about 20 minutes. Melt in a stewpan an 
 ounce of butter, add an ounce of flour, and stir 
 over the fire until nicely browned, then add half 
 an ounce of sweet almonds, blanched and 
 shredded, the grated rind and juice of half a 
 lemon, a tablespoonful of vinegar, also half an 
 ounce of sugar, a glass of claret, a saltspoonful 
 of salt, and half a saltspoonful of grated nut- 
 meg; then add the stewed raisins, allow the 
 sauce to boil for a few minutes, and serve hot. 
 
 Sultana Sauce (Served with Braised or Stewed 
 Hares, Babbits, and Eagouts): Pick and wash 
 and soak in tepid water 2 ounces of sultanas, 
 and cook them in a stewpan for about 15 minutes 
 in half a pint of water. Mix ty an ounce of corn- 
 flour with an ounce of butter, and stir it into 
 the boiling fruit and cook until it thickens. Add 
 the grated rind and juice of half a lemon and a 
 small glass of claret. Eeheat and serve hot. 
 
 Tamarind Sauce (Usually Served with Fish): 
 Mix 14 lb. of tamarinds with % pint of water 
 and rub all through a wire sieve; put the pulp 
 thus obtained into a saucepan, add a wineglass- 
 ful of port wine or claret, the juice of half a 
 lemon, an ounce of sugar, and half a saltspoonful 
 of cayenne. Boil up and stir the ingredients 
 
100 THE BOOK OF SAUCES 
 
 until quite smooth. Add more water, if found 
 too thick. Serve the sauce hot or cold. 
 
 Red Wine Raisin Sauce (Served with Eoast 
 Beef, Venison or Wild Birds): Stone 4 ozs. of 
 raisins and chop them finely, then simmer in a 
 stewpan with half a pint of Demi-glace sauce 
 for ten minutes, add the juice of a lemon, and 
 the grated rind of a quarter of it, a glass of 
 claret, also a teaspoonful of castor sugar. Boil 
 up and cook for ten minutes, then serve hot or 
 cold. 
 
 SWEET SAUCES. 
 
 Tor Hot and Cold Puddings, Fruit Timbales and 
 Croutes, Fritters, etc. 
 
 Almond Sauce: Put into a saucepan half a 
 pint of milk, bring nearly to the boil, then stir 
 in slowly one level dessertspoonful of cornflour 
 or cornstarch previously mixed with a little cold 
 milk; stir till it boils, then add half an ounce 
 of Valencia almonds and four bitter almonds, 
 previously blanched, peeled, chopped and pounded 
 to a paste with 2 ounces of castor sugar; reboil 
 the whole, then add a raw yolk of egg. Ee-heat, 
 but do not let it boil again. Serve hot or cold. 
 
 Almond Cream Sauce: Blanch and skin one 
 ounce of Jordan almonds and six bitter almonds; 
 then put them in a mortar with 4 ounces of 
 castor sugar and a tabelspoonful of orange-flour 
 water, and pound them finely; remove this and 
 put into a small stewpan, add a gill of cream 
 and 2 egg yolks, and whisk the sauce over boil- 
 ing water until it resembles a smooth cream. 
 
 Almond Sauce for Fruit Salad: Blanch and 
 peel one dozen sweet and four bitter almonds, 
 soak them in cold water for about two hours; 
 drain and chop them, next put them in a little 
 cold water with a few drops of lemon juice, and 
 sufficient salt and pepper to season; by degrees 
 add a few spoonfuls of sherry just enough to 
 make it the consistency of cream. This dress- 
 ing may be used on sliced apples, pears, peaches 
 and fresh figs. 
 

 THE BOOK OF SAUCES 101 
 
 Apricot Sauce: Required: 2 tablespoonfuls 
 of apricot marmalade, % gill sherry or ^4 gill 
 brandy, 1 gill water, % oz. fresh butter. 
 
 Put the marmalade in a stewpan, and let dis- 
 solve with the water and butter. Remove from 
 the fire, add the sherry or brandy, boil up again, 
 strain, and use as required. A liaison of one 
 dessertspoonful of cornflour added to the above 
 will improve the appearance for cooking pur- 
 poses. A little sugar may be added if found 
 necessary. 
 
 Banana Cream Sauce: Peel three ripe bananas, 
 and rub them through a sieve. Mix an ounce 
 of corn or rice flour with a little cold water into 
 a smooth paste, add to it a gill of cream, stir 
 over the fire until it boils, and allow to simmer 
 for five minutes, then add the banana pulp, 
 about 1% oz. of castor sugar, and a tablespoon- 
 ful of rosewater. Re-heat and flavor with a 
 little lemon rind. Last of all stir in a little 
 whipped cream. 
 
 Brandy Sauce: Required: 4 oz. loaf sugar, 
 % oz. cornflour, y 2 gill brandy, % pint water. 
 
 Put the sugar and rather more than a gill and 
 a half of water in a copper stewpan, boil a few 
 minutes, take off the scum, and reduce to a thin 
 syrup. Mix the cornflour with a little cold 
 water, stir into the boiling syrup, and whisk 
 over the fire for about five minutes. Add the 
 brandy, strain, and serve hot with the pudding. 
 
 Brandy Butter: Work to a cream in a basin 
 with a wooden spoon, 6 ounces of fresh butter 
 with 2 ounces of icing sugar, then add by de- 
 grees 2 dessertspoonfuls of lemon juice, and 2 
 to 3 tablespoonfuls of brandy; beat until it 
 resembles whipped cream, and put it on the 
 ice till required. This sauce is good with most 
 steamed or baked puddings; it can also be used 
 as a garnish for cold puddings. 
 
 Caramel Sauce: (another way): Put an ounce 
 of loaf sugar into a copper pan and cook it to 
 a light brown color; pour in quickly half a pint 
 of syrup, flavor with vanilla pod or essence and 
 reduce a little. About five minutes before serv- 
 ing incorporate a dessertspoonful of arrow root, 
 
102 THE BOOH OF SAUCES 
 
 previously mixed with a little cold milk or cream. 
 Boil while stirring for a few minutes, then strain 
 and serve. 
 
 Chaudeau Sauce: Put into a small stewpan 1 
 gill of white wine, Chablis, Sauterne or Hock; 
 whisk in 3 yolks of eggs and 1 oz. of castor 
 sugar, and stir or whisk over the fire till the mix- 
 ture becomes a cream-like froth. It must be hot 
 but not boiling. Pour over the pudding or serve 
 in a sauce boat. 
 
 Cherry Sauce: Cream up 2 ounces of fresh 
 butter and 2 ounces of sugar, then add the 
 whisked white of an egg, and about half a pint 
 of cherry pulp, made from fresh or bottled 
 cherries; the fruit should be first stewed. Mix 
 it all well together, and add a tablespoonful of 
 kirsch or rum, and if liked a few drops of liquid 
 carmine. Serve hot or cold. 
 
 Chocolate Sauce: Kequired 4 oz. grated 
 chocolate, 2 oz. icing sugar, % pint of water, 1 
 oz. fecule or creme de riz, 1 teaspoonful vanilla 
 essence, tablespoonful of brandy. 
 
 Put the chocolate sugar, and water in a sauce- 
 pan; stir over the fire until it boils. Mix the 
 fecule or creme de riz with an extra gill of 
 cold water, add it to the chocolate, bring it 
 again to the boil, and let simmer for five min- 
 utes. Pass through a tammy or napkin, return 
 to the saucepan, add the brandy and vanilla 
 essence, and keep hot until required. 
 
 Chocolate Sauce (No. 2): Boil half a pint of 
 grated chocolate, add half a gill of cream, stir 
 this on to two yolks of eggs well beaten, re- 
 turn to the stewpan over the fire and stir until 
 it thickens. A little sugar may be added if 
 required. 
 
 Chocolate Sauce (Cold) : Prepare a custard as 
 follows: Beat up 4 yolks of eggs, put them in 
 a saucepan with half a pint of boiling milk 
 and one ounce of castor sugar, and stir over the 
 fire until it thickens; do not allow it to boil 
 or it will curdle; add 2 ounces of chocolate pre- 
 viously dissolved and boiled in half a pint of 
 milk, when cool add it to the custard, then 
 
THE BOOK OF SAUCES 103 
 
 pass through a fine sieve; when cold stir in 
 about half a gill of whipped cream and serve. 
 
 Claret Sauce: Put in a stewpan iy 2 gill of 
 claret with 1 oz. loaf sugar, a piece of cinnamon, 
 and a slice of lemon. Boil up, and add a dessert- 
 spoonful of Brown and Poison 's cornflour mixed 
 with a tablespoonful of cold water. Cook for 
 ten minutes, strain and serve. 
 
 Coffee Custard Sauce: Put 6 tablespoonfuls of 
 freshly-made strong coffee into a saucepan with 
 % pint of milk and 2 to 3 ounces of loaf sugar; 
 let it boil, strain, then stir or whisk in the 
 yolks of 3 eggs. Ee-heat whilst stirring until 
 it thickens, strain, and add a tablespoonful of 
 cream. 
 
 Coffee Sauce: Boast 2 ounces of raw coffee 
 berries in a pan over a quick fire till of a 
 chestnut brown color. Then pound them in a 
 mortar. Boil half a pint of water and pour 
 over the coffee. Cover, and let it infuse for some 
 minutes. Now strain and sweeten with plain 
 incorporate a dessertspoonful of arrow root, or 
 cornflour with a small glass of brandy or kirsch. 
 Add this to the coffee. Let simmer five minutes 
 and serve. 
 
 Custard Sauce: Beat up two eggs in a basin, 
 and add by degrees a pint of boiling milk. 
 Sweeten with an ounce of castor sugar and stir 
 or whisk over the fire until the mixture begins 
 to thicken and is of a creamlike appearance. 
 Flavor with a few drops of vanilla or lemon 
 essence, then serve hot. Great care must be 
 taken not to let the sauce boil otherwise it will 
 curdle. 
 
 Custard Sauce (No. 2): Boil half a pint of 
 milk, beat up two yolks of eggs in a basin, add 
 a heaping tablespoonful of castor sugar, add some 
 flavoring essence if liked, stir the boiling milk 
 gradually on the egg, return into the stewpan 
 and stir over a gentle fire until the custard is 
 formed. It must not on any account be allowed 
 to boil. If liked a little thicker, a teaspoonful 
 of cornflour may be mixed with a little cold 
 milk; this must be added to the hot milk be- 
 fore the yolks, etc., are incorporated. Cinnamon, 
 
104 THE BOOK OF SAUCES 
 
 nutmeg or lemon rind may be used as flavoring 
 in place of essence. 
 
 Custard Sauce (No. 3) : Put into a bain-marie 
 pan y 2 pint of milk, an ounce of castor sugar, 
 and a small piece of whole cinnamon or vanilla 
 pod. Boil for a few minutes, then take out 
 the cinnamon or vanilla pod, and add the yolks 
 of two eggs. Whisk all until it is of a creamy 
 consistency. Before serving add a small glass 
 of sherry or Marsala. 
 
 Curacoa Sauce: Required: 1 oz. fresh butter, 
 % oz. flour, 1 gill milk, 1 oz. sugar, 1 whole egg, 
 y% teaspoonful vanilla essence, % oz. finely- 
 chopped pistachios, % oz. finely-chopped lemon 
 peel, 1 tablespoonful red curaoa. 
 
 Melt the butter in a small stewpan, stir in the 
 flour and blend over the fire for a few seconds. 
 Moisten slowly with the milk, add the sugar, 
 and stir well over the fire; beat up the egg and 
 add also; strain the sauce into another saucepan, 
 let it get hot, but not boiling; stir in the lemon 
 peel, pistachios, and curagoa, and serve as 
 directed. 
 
 Foam or Whip Sauce: Put into a saucepan 
 the yolks of 3 eggs and one whole egg, 2 ounces 
 of castor sugar, the strained juice of a lemon, 
 a glass of marsolo or sherry and one of brandy, 
 put the pan in a larger one containing boiling 
 water, place it over the fire and whisk until the 
 sauce ingredients resemble foam or broth. Serve 
 hot or pour it over a pudding. 
 
 Hard Sauce (No. 2) : Cream up 4 ounces of 
 butter with 6 ounces of sugar, then stir in a 
 glass of sherry and the juice of half a lemon. 
 Beat the mixture until a fairly firm cream is 
 obtained. Spread it neatly on a plate and keep 
 on the ice till wanted; serve with hot pudding. 
 Brandy may be used instead of wine. 
 
 Jamaica Sauce: Peel two ripe bananas, rub 
 them through a fine sieve, put the pulp into 
 a saucepan with a gill of water, a dessertspoon- 
 ful of castor sugar, add a tablespoonful of white 
 rum, boil up, and thicken with a teaspoonful of 
 cornflour or cornstarch, previously mixed with a 
 little cold milk. Boil up, add the yolks of 2 
 
THE BOOK OF SAUCES 105 
 
 eggs, and flavor with a few drops of vanilla 
 essence. 
 
 Kirsch Sauce: Proceed the same as directed 
 for brandy sauce, but substitute y% gill of 
 kirschwasser for the brandy. 
 
 Liqueur Sauce: Put the yolks of three or four 
 eggs in a bain-marie pan with a small glass of 
 maraschino, curac.oa or other suitable liqueur, 
 add 2 ounces of loaf sugar previously rasped on 
 the rind of a lemon to extract all the zest and 
 dissolved in half a gill of water. Place the 
 pan in the bain-marie or a large pan of hot 
 water, then whisk the sauce until it has a cream- 
 like texture, and serve at once. 
 
 Maraschino Sauce: Take 1 oz. fresh butter, 
 % oz. flour, 1 gill milk, 1 oz. sugar, 1 whole egg, 
 % teaspoonful vanilla essence, ^ oz. finely 
 chopped pistachios, ^ oz. finely chopped lemon 
 rind, 1 tablespoonful of maraschino. 
 
 Melt the butter in a small stewpan, stir in 
 the flour, and blend over the fire for a few sec- 
 onds. Moisten slowly with the milk, adding the 
 sugar, and stir well over the fire; beat up the 
 egg and add also; strain the sauce into another 
 saucepan, let it get hot, but not boiling; stir in 
 the lemon-peel, pistachios, and the maraschino, 
 and serve as required. 
 
 Marmalade Sauce: Required: ^ oz. corn- 
 starch or cornflour, 1 tablespoonful marmalade, 
 % oz. castor sugar, the juice of half a lemon, * 
 pint water, 1 tablespoonful sherry. 
 
 Mix the cornflour with a little cold water in 
 a saucepan, add to this remainder of above- 
 named ingredients and place on the fire, stir till 
 it boils and cook for ten minutes, then strain. 
 
 Moka Pudding Sauce: Take the yolks of three 
 eggs, one ounce of castor sugar and a liqueur 
 glass of Kirschwasser, a tablespoonful of cream 
 and half a tablespoonful of strong black coffee. 
 Whisk this over a saucepan of boiling water 
 from 10 to 15 minutes, long enough to bind. The 
 sauce is then ready for serving. 
 
 Nutmeg Sauce: Boil in a saucepan 1% gills 
 of milk with % ounce of butter and a dessert- 
 spoonful of castor sugar, then thicken with a 
 
106 THE BOOK OF SAUCES 
 
 dessertspoonful of cornflour or cornstarch, add 
 a sufficiency of grated nutmeg to flavor, also 
 a dessertspoonful of brandy, and whisk it over 
 the fire for several minutes. Serve hot. 
 
 Orange Sauce (No. 2): Eub the rind of two 
 oranges all over several lumps of loaf sugar, 
 then scrape it off and put it into a small stew- 
 pan with the juice and pulp of four oranges, 
 previously rubbed through a fine sieve; to this 
 add a heaped-up dessertspoonful of arrowroot 
 or cornflour, previously mixed with a little cold 
 water, an ounce of castor sugar, and a liqueur 
 glassful of curac,oa. Stir over the fire until 
 the sauce boils, then simmer for about 5 minutes 
 and serve hot. 
 
 Punch Syrup: Required : 4 oz. loaf sugar, 
 1 orange, ^ tablespoonful vanilla essence, % 
 gill best rum, % gill water. 
 
 Eub the sugar on the orange rind to obtain 
 the flavor of half the orange. Put this into a 
 Stewpan, add the rum, light it, and cover quickly; 
 let it infuse for a few seconds over the fire, 
 then add the water, vanilla essence, and the 
 piece of orange, and boil for five minutes; strain, 
 and serve hot with the pudding. 
 
 NOTE: If preferred, brandy or kirschwasser 
 inay be used in place of rum. 
 
 Bhubarb and Banana Sauce: Stew 1 bundle 
 of forced rhubarb in a syrup made of 2 ozs. of 
 loaf sugar and % gill of water. When soft, rub 
 through a fine sieve. Cool and add % gill of 
 cream and 2 tablespoonsful of banana cut into 
 small dice. Serve cold with stewed rice or with 
 cornflour blanc mange. 
 
 Rum Sauce: Boil up in a saucepan % pint of 
 milk with two ounces of loaf sugar, then add 
 a heaped-up dessertspoonful of cornflour or corn- 
 starch previously mixed with a little cold milk, 
 re-boil, and add 2 tablespoonfuls of rum. When 
 serving, mix in if liked a few coarsely chopped 
 peeled pistachio kernels. 
 
 Bum Sauce (No. 2) : Put into a saucepan % 
 pint of water, 3 tablespoonfuls of orange mar- 
 malade, and the strained juice of a lemon; let 
 these boil together for five minutes, then strain, 
 
THE BOOK OF SAUCES 107 
 
 and thicken with a dessertspoonful of cornflour 
 or cornstarch, previously mixed with a little cold 
 water, and boil for another five minutes; whisk 
 in an egg yolk, add also a small glass of rum, 
 re-heat without boiling and serve hot. 
 
 Raspberry Sauce: Heat up a gill of raspberry 
 pulp or a similar proportion of raspberry jam 
 with 1 oz. of sugar. Mix a tablespoonful of 
 cornflour with milk, cream or water, and stir into 
 the above. Boil for eight minutes, strain, and 
 add rum or brandy to taste. 
 
 Sabayon Sauce: Put 3 oz. castor sugar, 3 
 yolks of eggs, and *4 gill cream in a stewpan, 
 place it in a bain-marie or vessel of boiling 
 water over the fire, stir with a whisk until 
 frothy, then add 1 gill Maderia wine, whisk it 
 until it begins to thicken and is of light appear- 
 ance, pour over the pudding and serve. 
 
 Sweet Sauce: Put % pint of water into a 
 pan with thinly peeled rind of half a lemon, 
 also of half an orange, 2 ounces of sugar, a piece 
 of cinnamon, and half a bay-leaf; simmer for 
 a few minutes. Mix a dessertspoonful of arrow- 
 root with a little sherry and add this, together 
 with the strained juice of half a lemon and one 
 orange. Stir over the fire until it thickens, 
 strain, and add a tablespoonful of brandy or 
 maraschino, and serve hot. 
 
 Sweet Chaud-froid Sauce: Soak % oz. gelatine 
 in cold water, strain and dissolve in a saucepan 
 with 1 gill of cream or milk, reduce a little 
 whilst stirring and add the desired flavoring, 
 such as fruit pulp, vanilla, kirsch, maraschino, 
 or rum. Cook for a few minutes, strain, and 
 add a little whipped cream, stir in the ice till 
 nearly cold, and use for coating fruit: peaches, 
 pears, apricots, apples, etc. 
 
 Sweet Lemon Sauce: Put 2 yolks of eggs in 
 a small saucepan, beat up well, and add 2 oz. 
 castor sugar, y 2 oz. of cornflour, and the rind 
 of half a lemon chopped finely. Mix thoroughly 
 and work in slowly half a pint of boiling milk. 
 Stir with a whisk over the fire until the sauce 
 acquires the desired consistency, strain, and serve 
 as directed. 
 
108 THE BOOK OF SAUCES 
 
 Sweet Melted Butter Sauce: Required 1 oz. 
 fresh butter, % oz. flour, 1^ gill of milk, 1 des- 
 sert-spoonful castor sugar, a few drops of vanilla 
 essence. 
 
 Dissolve the butter in a saucepan, add the 
 flour and stir over the fire for a few minutes 
 without allowing the flour to brown; then add 
 by degrees the milk, stir till it boils, add the 
 sugar, and cook for ten minutes. Just before 
 serving add vanilla cream. 
 
 Sweet Mousseline Sauce: Eequired 3 yolks of 
 eggs, 2 whites of eggs, % gill cream, 1^ oz. 
 castor sugar, 1 wineglassful maraschino. 
 
 Put all the above ingredients into a small 
 stewpan, beat it with a whisk, stand the pan 
 in a bain-marie or a large vessel three parts 
 full of boiling water. Stir until it becomes 
 creamy, but do not allow it to boil. Serve with 
 hot sweet puddings, etc. 
 
 Sweet Orange Sauce: Kequired 2 yolks of 
 eggs, 1 small orange, 2 oz. castor sugar, % pint 
 of milk, 1 glass curacoa. 
 
 Boil up the milk and sugar, add the rind of 
 orange finely grated, the tablespoonful of orange 
 juice, stir in the yolks of eggs, beat well over 
 the fire with a small whisk. When the sauce 
 begins to thicken, place in the bain-marie or 
 a vessel containing boiling water, add the 
 liqueur, and continue to whisk for ten minutes; 
 the sauce is then ready for serving. 
 
 Cold Strawberry Sauce: Boil up 1 gill of 
 strawberry pulp with 1 oz. of castor or icing 
 sugar. Mix a dessertspoonful of cornflour (or 
 cornstarch) with a tablespoonful of sherry and 
 stir into the above. Cook for ten minutes, strain, 
 add a tablespoonful of cream, and serve. 
 
 Hot Strawberry Sauce: Eequired: The pulp 
 of a dozen large, ripe strawberries, 1 glass of 
 Sauterne or Chablis, 1 egg, 1 oz. sugar. 
 
 Put the fruit pulp, wine, and sugar in a small 
 stewpan, whisk over a moderate fire until almost 
 boiling, then add the egg; continue to whisk 
 until quite frothy; on no account allow it to boil. 
 Serve as soon as ready. 
 
 Cornflour Sauce: Eequired: 1 tablespoonful 
 
THE BOOK OP SAUCES 109 
 
 cornstarch or cornflour, y 2 pint milk, 1 pat fresh 
 butter, % oz. loaf sugar, lemon rind or vanilla 
 pod. 
 
 Boil up the milk with the butter, loaf sugar, 
 and the thin rind of half a lemon or an inch of 
 vanilla pod. Mix the cornflour with a little cold 
 milk in a basin, and pour on it the hot milk, 
 return to the saucepan, boil up, and cook for 
 eight minutes. 
 
 Valancia Sauce: Put a tablespoonful of red 
 currant jelly with a gill of water in a sauce- 
 pan, and stir over the fire until the jelly is dis- 
 solved, then add the strained juice of an orange, 
 and some of the rind, finely grated or cut into 
 fine shreds, with a few blanched and shredded 
 almonds or a tablespoonful of desiccated or 
 fresh cocoanut. Sweeten to taste, and serve 
 hot. 
 
 Vanilla Sauce: Proceed in the same manner as 
 above directed, omitting the lemon rind and 
 using vanilla pod in its place. A little cream may 
 be added just before serving. 
 
 Vanilla Sauce (No. 2): Boil 1 gill of milk 
 with % a vanilla pod; cream 3 egg yolks with 
 1 oz. of castor sugar, and pour over, whilst 
 stirring, the milk. Eeturn all into the stewpan 
 and stir over the fire till it thickens, but must 
 not boil. Strain and serve as required (hot or 
 cold). 
 
 Wine Sauce: Put into a jar or bain-marie pan 
 3 e gg yolks, a gill of sherry, Marsala or Ma- 
 deira, and a tablespoonful of castor sugar. Place 
 the pan in a bain-marie or else in a large sauce- 
 pan of boiling water, and whisk till frothy and 
 of creamlike consistency. It must not boil or 
 it will curdle. 
 
 STORE SAUCES. 
 
 Condiment or Relish Sauces for the Kitchen and 
 
 the Table. 
 
 Albany Sauce: Put the yolks of 2 hard-boiled 
 eggs and the yolk of one raw egg, also a little 
 salt and paprika pepper, into a mixing basin, 
 and mix till quite smooth with a wooden spoon, 
 
110 THE BOOK OF SAUCES 
 
 then stir in slowly a gill of Lucca oil, a table- 
 spoonful of mushroom catsup, a tablespoonful of 
 Harvey sauce, a tablespoonful of anchovy essence 
 2 tablespoonfuls of tomato pulp, and the strained 
 juice of a fresh lemon. Mix all well together, 
 and serve as required for grilled fish or grilled 
 meat (use it as cold meat sauce or as a salad 
 sauce). 
 
 Balmoral Sauce: Put into a saucepan a quart 
 of vinegar, 2 ounces of currants, 1 ounce of 
 raisins, a pint of green gooseberries, and 2 ounces 
 of Demerara sugar; let all simmer slowly for 
 half an hour, then put into a bowl a teaspoonful 
 of mustard, a teaspoonful of turmeric, a tea- 
 spoonful of mace, and a good pinch of salt; mix 
 together with y 2 pint of tarragon vinegar. Pass 
 all through a wire sieve, and mix well together. 
 Put the sauce into bottles well corked, where it 
 will keep for any length of time. 
 
 Chutney Catsup: Peel, quarter and core 1 
 dozen large sour apples, and pass them through 
 a mincing machine, together with 6 tomatoes, 
 4 peeled and sliced onions, and % Ib. of stoned 
 raisins. Boil one quart of malt vinegar and one 
 quart of cider vinegar for 10 minutes, with y 2 
 Ib. of brown sugar, 2 tablespoonfuls of salt, and 
 a spice bag containing one whole nutmeg, a 
 piece of ginger root, a pounded stick of cinna- 
 mon, 12 whole cloves, and a tablespoonful of 
 allspice. Then add the minced vegetables and 
 fruit, and cook all gently to the consistency of 
 a puree. Put it into air tight jars or wide 
 mouthed bottles. 
 
 Cucumber Catsup: Peel and grate or chop 2 
 dozen small ripe cucumbers, put them into a large 
 basin or pan, sprinkle over with salt, and allow 
 them to stand covered for three hours, then pour 
 off the liquid formed. Measure the pulp, and 
 to every quart add 2 peeled and finely chopped 
 Spanish onions, a saltspoonful of cayenne pepper 
 and a teaspoonful each of salt, ground cloves, 
 and allspice. Bring slowly to the boil, pouring 
 in gradually as the catsup begins to simmer a 
 quart of French wine vinegar. Cook for 15 
 minutes, and when cold pour into bottles or 
 glass jars, cork and seal. 
 
THE BOOK OF SAUCES 111 
 
 Cumberland Catsup: Put into an earthenware 
 jar 6 Ibs, of white or red grapes, place the jar 
 in a larger vessel of boiling water, and cook until 
 the skins of the grapes burst. Strain the juice 
 carefully into a clean cooking vessel, and return 
 to the fire, add to each quart of grape juice ^ 
 Ib. of granulated sugar, 1 pint of vinegar, a 
 tablespoonful of salt, a tablesponful of whole 
 cloves, half a grated nutmeg, a teasponful ground 
 allspice, and a tablespoonful ground cinnamon. 
 Boil slowly for about an hour, pour whilst hot 
 into bottle, and cork them well. 
 
 Mushroom Catsup: Wipe half a bushel of 
 freshly gathered mushrooms with a damp cloth, 
 and arrange in layers in a large stone jar, 
 sprinkle each layer liberally with fine salt. Let 
 them remain thus for about 12 hours. Mash 
 up the mushrooms well with a potato masher, 
 carefully straining off the juice through a fine 
 sieve or berry press. Add to this liquid a tea- 
 spoonful of black pepper, half a dozen whola 
 cloves, and 2 sticks of cinnamon to each pint 
 of mushroom liquor, then boil slowly until re- 
 duced about one-half, strain through a muslin 
 bag or cheesecloth, and dilute with 2 tablespoon- 
 fuls of spiced vinegar to every pint of catsup. 
 Put into bottles, cork and capsule or seal them. 
 
 Tomato Catsup: Take 3 or 4 Ibs. of ripe to- 
 matoes and mash them up, to this add 2 large 
 onions peeled and chopped, 4 green peppers also 
 chopped finely, 2 tablespoonfuls of salt, 3 table- 
 spoonfuls of moist or Demerara sugar, % gill 
 of tarragon vinegar, 1 tablespoonful of crushed 
 whole cinnamon, 1 dessertspoonful of mustard, 
 and half a grated nutmeg. Put all into a sauce- 
 pan with .3 quarts of vinegar, boil gently until 
 all the ingredients are thoroughly cooked, which 
 will take about 3 hours, then strain and bottle 
 while hot. 
 
 Walnut Catsup: Boil some green walnuts till 
 tender in sufficient water to well cover them, 
 then press them and measure the liquid. To 
 each gallon of this add *4 Ib. anchovies, and 4 oz. 
 shallots, peeled and cut up small, % ounce cloves, 
 y 2 ounce mace, and 1 clove of garlic bruised or 
 
112 THE BOOK OF SAUCES 
 
 crushed. Boil for about 20 minutes, then strain 
 and bottle and cork. 
 
 Dunraven Sauce: Mash up 6 ripe tomatoes and 
 4 large peeled and cooked apples, and pass them 
 through a wire sieve. Put these into a large 
 jar, and add a tablespoonful of grated horse- 
 radish, a teaspoonful of mustard, a glass of 
 port wine, the juice of 2 lemons, a quart of wal- 
 nut catsup, an ounce of moist sugar, also a tea- 
 spoonful of salt, and a / teaspoonful of cayenne 
 pepper. Mix these ingredients well together, 
 boil up, skim and strain, then bottle and cork. 
 
 Empress Sauce: Peel and chop finely 2 onions, 
 fry them in 2 ounces of clarified butter till of 
 a light brown color, add half a dozen chillies or 
 capricums, cut into small pieces and ^ tea- 
 spoonful of salt. Stir all well together for a 
 few minutes, and whilst stirring add the strained 
 juice of a lemon, % pint of vinegar, a pint of 
 tomato pulp, a little water, and a tablespoon- 
 ful of Liebig's Extract of Meat or Marmite 
 Extract. Bub all through a fine sieve, boil up 
 again, then bottle and use as required. 
 
 Madras Sauce: Put into a large jar 6 chopped 
 ripe tomatoes, 4 green cooking apples (peeled 
 and chopped), a few sprigs of green tarragon, 2 
 capsicums, 2 ounces sultanas, 1 ounce stoned 
 raisins, 2 ounces Demerara sugar, and a quart 
 of vinegar. Put the jar in a slow oven for 2 
 hours. Mix a teaspoonful of mustard, a table- 
 spoonful of grated horse-radish a teaspoonful of 
 ground ginger, and a teaspoonful of salt. Rub 
 the contents of the jar through a fine sieve, 
 add to the other ingredients, boil again and 
 bottle and cork when cold. 
 
 Newcastle Sauce: Pound in a mortar an ounce 
 of black peppercorns, and mix with y 2 ounce of 
 allspice, a teaspoonful of salt, and a dust of 
 coralline pepper, an ounce of grated horse-radish, 
 and 4 shallots peeled and chopped finely. Put 
 these ingredients into a jar with a pint of good 
 mushroom catsup, together with a pint of Wor- 
 cester sauce and about half an ounce of bruised 
 ginger. Cover the jar and let it stand for a 
 fortnight, then strain off the sauce and bottle 
 for use. 
 
THE BOOK OF SAUCES 113 
 
 Onion Sauce: Put into an earthenware jar 
 an ounce of cayenne or a similar quantity of 
 bruised capsicum or red pepper, a pint of small 
 peeled button onions, a tablespoonful of salt, 
 3 tablespoonfuls of Indian Soy, and */ gill of 
 mushroom ketchup, then boil up 3 pints of vine- 
 gar and pour over the ingredients. Cover the 
 jar and allow it to stand for about a week, 
 shaking it frequently. Boil up the liquid with 
 another half pint of vinegar, and pour it back 
 on to the ingredients in the jar. Allow it to 
 stand for another week, then strain and bottle 
 for use. 
 
 Queen Mary Sauce (Sauce Eeine-Marie) : This 
 is a rich brown sauce made with meat gravy 
 basis, thickened with Espagnole and reduced 
 with a little port wine, then add finely chopped 
 fried shallots, chopped parsley, and a little an- 
 chovy essence to flavor. 
 
 Salad Dressing: Rub the yolks of 3 hard-boiled 
 eggs through a seive into a basin, add one table- 
 spoonful of Demerara sugar, one tablespoonful 
 of mustard, 2 tablespoonfuls of tarragon and 
 a tablespoonful of chilli vinegar, also a tea- 
 spoonful of anchovy sauce. Mix these well to- 
 gether, then add by degrees half a pint of cream 
 (two or three days old if procurable). Should 
 a large quantity be made, this dressing will keep 
 good for one month if kept tightly corked in 
 a cool place. 
 
 Salad Dressing: (No. 2): Put the yolks of 
 three fresh eggs into a basin, with half a tea- 
 spoonful of salt, a little mignonette pepper, a 
 teaspoonful of French mustard, a pinch of Eng- 
 lish mustard, and a saltspoonful of castor sugar, 
 mix well, then stir in gradually about half a 
 pint of salad oil, with a tablespoonful of tarra- 
 gon vinegar and a dessertspoonful of chilli vine- 
 gar. Stir or whisk well together until of a 
 creamlike texture, then add a tablespoonful of 
 boiling hot water, and lastly about a gill of 
 cream. 
 
 Spanish Salad Dressing: Put into a mixing 
 basin 1 gill of cream, 1 pint of wine vinegar, 
 Y2 ounce of castor sugar, y 2 teaspoonful of 
 
114 THE BOOK OF SAUCES 
 
 cayenne, 1 dessertspoonful of salt, 1 dessert- 
 spoonful of mustard, and mix all thoroughly. 
 Cream an ounce of butter, adding the yolks of 
 3 eggs at the same time, then stir in about half 
 a gill of boiling water. Whisk to a froth the 
 whites of 2 eggs, and add this also, then blend 
 both mixtures. Stand the basin in a pan of 
 boiling water, and whisk until the sauce is 
 quite warm, lastly stir in about a gill of Lucca 
 or olive oil. The oil should, however, not be 
 added until the sauce has cooled off a little. 
 Bottle and cork the sauce, and use as required. 
 It is well to always shake the bottle before 
 using the dressing. 
 
 Tarragon Cream Sauce: Put into a basin the 
 yolks of 2 eggs, stir well till smooth, and add 
 gradually % pint of good salad oil; when creamy 
 add % teaspoonful of salt, a teaspoonful of made 
 mustard, and a saltspoonful of pepper, 2 teaspoon- 
 fuls of anchovy essence, a gill of tarragon vine- 
 gar, a gill of thick cream, and 2 tablespoonfuls 
 of castor sugar. Mix well together and bottle 
 the sauce. Shake well before using, as the 
 ingredients settle at the bottom. This sauce 
 is excellent with all kinds of cold meat, or may 
 be used with any kind of salad. 
 
 Tarragon Herb Sauce: Einse in cold water a 
 bunch of tarragon with a little chervil and a 
 small proportion of other sweet herbs, then drain 
 thoroughly on a cloth. Strip off the leaves into 
 an earthenware jar, pour over a quart of boiling 
 vinegar, cover closely and allow to stand for one 
 or two days, then strain, and mix with one-third 
 of Tomato Catsup and one-third of Harvey or 
 Worcestershire sauce. The sauce is then ready 
 for bottling. 
 
 Tomato Sauce: Cut 6 pounds of ripe tomatoes 
 into slices, and put them into a saucepan with 
 2 large onions peeled and sliced, ^ pound of 
 Demerara sugar, an ounce of salt, % an ounce 
 of peppercorns, half a teaspoonful of cayenne 
 pepper, half an ounce of ground cloves, and 4 
 ounces of allspice. Pour over two quarts of 
 vinegar and boil gently for 2 hours. Stir fre- 
 quently to prevent burning, then rub all through 
 
THE BOOK OF SAUCES 115 
 
 a fine sieve. When the sauce is cold, add a 
 little carmine to give it a nice reddish color, 
 then bottle securely and store in a cool, dry place. 
 
 Tomato Sauce (No. 2): Wipe the required 
 quantity of ripe tomatoes with a cloth, and 
 bake the fruit in a slow oven until tender. Next 
 rub all through a sieve and measure the pulp 
 thus obtained. To each quart of pulp add a pint 
 of tarragon vinegar, *4 ounce shallots and 1 
 clove of garlic, both peeled and bruised, also 
 1 tablespoonful of anchovy essence. Boil all in 
 a copper pan until the shallots are tender. Now 
 rub all through a sieve again, and re-boil with. 
 % pint of vinegar and 1 gill of Indian Soy to 
 every quart of tomato pulp. 
 
 Tomato Chutnee Sauce: Peel and slice 6 large- 
 sized tomatoes, add to them 4 sour apples peeled 
 and sliced, put into a stewpan with 4 Spanish 
 onions peeled and sliced, a dozen' chillies, 6 
 cloves, a cupful of brown sugar, a quart of vine- 
 gar, and boil gently until all is thoroughly 
 cooked. Pass all through a fine sieve; color 
 if liked with a little liquid carmine, then bottle 
 and cork or put into jars, and use when cold. 
 
 Universal Sauce (Sauce TJniverselle) : This is 
 a highly spiced cold meat sauce, prepared with, a 
 pint of mushroom ketchup, a gill of port wine, 
 4 peeled and finely chopped shallots, half a pint 
 of vinegar, ground whole spice, mace and cayenne 
 pepper to taste. Mix well and allow to mature 
 before using. 
 
 Worcestershire Sauce: Take 3 quarts of strong 
 vinegar, 1 Ib. of split raisins, 1 Ib. garlic, *4 lb. 
 eschalot, % ounce cayenne, ^ ounce powdered 
 ginger, salt to taste, small bottle of anchovies, 
 and mushroom ketchup. Boil the anchovies, 
 garlic, eschalot, and raisins in a quart of the 
 vinegar in an iron saucepan until it can be pulped 
 through a hair sieve, then boil all together for 
 a few minutes. Bottle when cold. It is essential 
 that the ingredients should be thoroughly boiled 
 before being pulped. 
 
 Worcestershire Sauce (No. 2) : Put into a 
 mortar % ounce capsicums or sweet peppers, % 
 ounce peeled shallots and a clove of garlic, and 
 
116 THE BOOK OF SAUCES 
 
 pound till quite smooth. Add a little vinegar 
 and put all into a large jar; boil up one quart 
 of vinegar and pour it over the pounded ingre- 
 dients, add also a pint of walnut ketchup. Cover 
 the jar and allow it to stand for some weeks, or 
 long enough to extract the flavor of the ingre- 
 dients used, then strain and bottle for use. 
 
 Yankee Sauce: Put into a saucepan 1 quart 
 of vinegar, % oz. allspice, 44 oz. ground cloves, 
 44 oz. black pepper, y 2 oz. mustard, 2 ozs. 
 ground Jamaica ginger, 44 oz. salt, 44 oz. garlic, 
 2 ozs. sugar, 8 ozs. tamarinds, 1 oz. curry pow- 
 der, 44 oz. cayenne pepper, y 2 pint sherry. 
 
 Mix the ingredients well together, and sim- 
 mer gently for about an hour, adding enough 
 vinegar from time to time to make up for loss 
 by evaporation. Let stand for a week, then 
 strain and bottle. A little burnt sugar (cara- 
 mel) or soy may be added to give the sauce a 
 better color. 
 
 FLAVORING OB COMPOUND BUTTERS. 
 
 Flavoring butters are used for numerous culi- 
 nary purposes; they were originally introduced 
 for imparting a specially desired flavor to 
 sauces, and for this purpose they are still 
 largely used. They are also very convenient 
 and useful to serve with grilled meat and grilled 
 fish, for sandwiches and toasts. The taste for 
 hors-d'oeuvre and savories has increased consid- 
 erably during the past few years. Flavoring 
 butters or beurres composes, as they are termed 
 in kitchen French, have been largely introduced 
 in many other preparations besides those above 
 named. They are used under the titles hors- 
 d'oeuvre and savories. They have also proved 
 eminently satisfactory when used for sauces, 
 i. e., "compound sauces." 
 
 Flavoring butter is added to sauces at the last 
 moment before being served, the object being 
 o give a sauce the requisite fresh-butter flavor, 
 which is deemed most essential to a well pre- 
 pared sauce, as it imparts at the same time the 
 and distinctive aroma of the condi- 
 
THE BOOK OP SAUCES 117 
 
 ment from which the butter obtains its name. 
 Most cooks are aware that besides the use of 
 these butters for sauces there are many other 
 ways in which they can be employed, for they 
 are eminently suitable for all kinds of sand- 
 wiches and for dainty, savory croutes; the addi- 
 tion of a nicely blended butter makes a won- 
 derful improvement both in appearance and 
 flavor to such dishes. Several of these butters 
 will be found excellent with cold game, cold 
 duck, cold beef or mutton; others may be used 
 for spreading toasts, biscuits, etc. For deco- 
 rating little cold hors-d'oeuvre and savories 
 these butters are exceedingly useful, as they en- 
 hance the appearance of many such dishes. 
 
 Take the humble maitre d 'hotel butter as an 
 example, and you will have some idea of the 
 many purposes for which flavoring butters can 
 be used. 
 
 The following recipes comprise the most pop- 
 ular and most useful flavoring butters. Each 
 one possesses all the essentials of an appetizing, 
 tasty, and well seasoned compound. 
 
 Anchovy Butter (Beurre d'Anchois): Ingredi- 
 ents: Six Gorgona anchovies, two ounces and 
 a half of butter, and half a lemon. Method: 
 Soak the anchovies in cold water, drain, take 
 out the bones, wipe dry with a cloth, pound in 
 a mortar with the butter, add the juice of a 
 lemon, rub through a fine sieve, spread on a 
 plate, put on the ice, and use as directed. 
 
 Chutney Butter (Beurre a la Madras): In- 
 gredients: Four ounces of Mango chutney, 1 
 tablespoonful of French mustard, 6 to 8 ounces 
 of fresh butter, and lemon juice. Method: 
 Pound the chutney in a mortar, add the French 
 mustard, and work in the fresh butter, season 
 to taste, and add a few drops of lemon juice. 
 Rub through a hair sieve, place it on the ice, 
 and use as required. 
 
 Devilled Butter (Beurre a la Diable): 1% oz. 
 
 butter, 1/2 teaspoonful cayenne pepper, 1 salt- 
 spoonful black pepper, curry powder, ground 
 ginger. Mix the butter with the cayenne pep- 
 per, black pepper, a pinch of curry powder, and 
 
1*8 THE BOOK OF SAUCES 
 
 a pinch of ground ginger. Spread on a plate, 
 and use for grilled cutlets, chops, etc. 
 
 Mint Butter: Take 1 oz. butter, perfectly 
 fresh (unsalted) and mix with 2 teaspoonfuls of 
 finely chopped green mint, add also a few drops 
 of lemon ."juice, and blend this well with the 
 butter. 
 
 Note: Besides being useful to impart mint 
 flavor to certain sauces, mint butter is delicious 
 for spreading thin slices of bread, when a 
 dainty sandwich made of minced lamb is de- 
 sired. 
 
 Pimiento Butter: Drain a Spanish pimiento, 
 cut it up small, and pound it till smooth in a 
 mortar with 4-6 oz. of fresh butter and a little 
 lemon- juice, then rub through a fine sieve and 
 season to taste. 
 
 Horse-Radish Butter (Beurre de Eaifort): % 
 stick horseradish, 4 oz. butter, 1 teaspoonful 
 chilli vinegar, 1 teaspoonful lemon-juice. Wash 
 the horse-radish, scrape off the outer skin, and 
 grate finely with white part. Mix with the 
 butter, the chilli vinegar, and lemon-juice, and 
 season with pepper and salt. Kub through & 
 fine sieve, spread on a plate, and put on the ice. 
 Cut into diamond shapes or little rounds, and 
 serve with grilled fillets of beef (tournedos) or 
 steaks. 
 
 Tomato Butter (Beurre au Tomate): Peel 
 and free from moisture 3 small ripe tomatoes, 
 pound them in a mortar with the same weight 
 of butter, then cook quickly over the fire, sea- 
 son with salt and pepper, and rub through a 
 fine sieve or tammy. 
 
 Spanish Butter (Beurre Espagnol) : 2 oz. 
 lean ham, 2 tablespoonfuls espagnole sauce, 6 oz. 
 fresh butter, nutmeg. Pound the ham in a 
 mortar till smooth, then add the well reduced 
 espagnole sauce; incorporate by degrees the 
 butter, season to taste with pepper and finely 
 grated nutmeg, and rub through a hair sieve. 
 Keep on the ice till wanted. 
 
 Beurre Maitre d* Hotel or Parsley Butter: 1 
 oz. fresh butter, 1 teaspoonful chopped parsley, 
 1 saltspoonful of chopped mixed tarragon and 
 
THE BOOK OF SAUCES 119 
 
 chervil, 1 teaspoonful lemon-juice. Mix the 
 butter with the parsley, tarragon, chervil, 
 lemon-juice, a pinch of salt and pepper. Spread 
 on a plate, put on the ice, and shape into pats 
 when quite firm. 
 
 Watercress Butter (Beurre de Ruisseau): In- 
 gredients: Watercress, fresh butter, white pep- 
 per, and salt. Method: Pick the leaves of the 
 required quantity of watercress, dry them in a 
 cloth, and mince them as fine as possible, then 
 knead them with as much fresh butter as they 
 will take up, adding a very little salt and white 
 pepper. Put the mixture thus obtained on a 
 plate, spread it out evenly, and place on the ice. 
 Stamp out some little rounds and serve in a glass 
 dish, or use for other purposes as described. 
 
 Ham Butter (Beurre au Jambon): Ingredi- 
 ents: Four ounces of cooked lean ham, 2 ounces 
 of fresh butter, one tablespoonful of double 
 cream, salt, and cayenne. Method: Pound the 
 finely chopped lean ham, add the butter and 
 double cream; season to taste with white pepper and 
 cayenne. Pass through a fine sieve, put it on 
 the ice, and use as required. 
 
 Lobster Butter (Beurre de Homard) : Ingredi- 
 ents: Lobster spawn and coral and fresh but- 
 ter. Method: Procure the eggs (spawn) and 
 coral of a lobster, pound till smooth in a mor- 
 tar with double its quantity of fresh butter, 
 rub through a fine sieve, and keep in a cool 
 place till required. 
 
 Montpellier Butter (Beurre Montpellier) : In- 
 gredients: Two ounces of parsley, chervil, tar- 
 ragon, chives, and "cress; 2 anchovies, 9 yolks 
 of hard-boiled eggs, 3 ounces of butter, 1 tea- 
 spoonful of capers, and 1 gherkin. Method: 
 Wash and pick the parsley, cress and herbs; 
 blanch for three minutes, strain, and cool. 
 Drain well in a cloth and pound in a mortar. 
 Put this on a plate and clean the mortar. Wipe 
 and bone the anchovies; pound them in a mor- 
 tar with the egg yolks, capers, and gherkins. 
 When quite smooth add the butter, lastly the 
 green puree. Mix the whole well together. 
 Put through a wire sieve, and use as required. 
 
120 THE BOOK OF SAUCES 
 
 A little spinach greening may be added if the 
 herbs should not color the butter sufficiently. 
 
 Paprika Butter (Eeurre au Paprika): In- 
 gredients: Four ounces of fresh butter and 1 
 teaspoonful of paprika (Hungarian pepper). 
 Method: Put the paprika on a clean plate with 
 the butter, and mix it to a smooth paste, then 
 put it on ice or in a cool place and use when 
 required. 
 
 Bavigote, or Green Herb Butter (Beurre 
 Ravigote): Ingredients: 1^ ozs. chervil, 2 ozs. 
 of spinach, iy% ozs. of green chives, 1 oz. of 
 tarragon, % oz. of parsley, 3 or 4 shallots, 6^ 
 ozs. of butter, pepper, and salt. Method: Wash 
 and pick the chervil, spinach, green chives, tar- 
 ragon, and parsley. Put it in a sauce-pan with 
 water and blanch. Drain well and pound in a 
 mortar. Peel 3 or 4 shallots, chop finely, cook 
 them in a little butter until of a golden color, 
 and put with the herbs; work in 6 ozs. of but- 
 ter, rub through a fine sieve, add a little pepper 
 and salt and spinach greening if necessary. The 
 butter is then ready for use. 
 
 Shrimp or Crayfish Butter (Beurre d'Ecre- 
 visses): Ingredients: % pint of picked shrimps 
 or prawns, 3 ozs. of fresh butter, and % oz. of 
 anchovy paste. Method: Pound the picked 
 shrimps or prawns in a mortar till smooth, add 
 the fresh butter, and anchovy paste; mix thor- 
 oughly and rub through a fine sieve. Keep on 
 the ice till wanted. A little liquid carmine or 
 cochineal may be added to color if found neces- 
 sary. 
 
INDEX 
 
 A Admiral sauce 34 
 Aigre-douche sauce 34 
 
 Albany sauce 35, 109 
 
 Albert sauce 35 
 
 Albufera sauce 35 
 
 Allemande sauce 35 
 
 Allspice 20 
 
 Almond sauce 100 
 
 t Almond sauce for fruit salad 100 
 
 [Almond cream sauce 100 
 
 -American (Americaine) sauce. . . 35 
 > Anchois, beurre d' t 117; Cremed' 36 
 
 Anchoia aux oeufs sauce 36 
 
 * Anchovy butter, 117; cream 36 
 
 Anchovy (anchois) sauce 35 
 
 lAnchovy egg sauce 36 
 
 'Apple sauce (and brown) 9< 
 
 'Apricot sauce 101 
 
 Aromatic herbs, 23; plants 22 
 
 ^Aromatic spice 22 
 
 Aspic cream, 49; creme a 1' 49 
 
 Aspic jelly, 34; mayonnaise. ... 36 
 Aspic, tomato (a la tomate) 36 
 Auxiliary recipes for sauces. ... 30 
 
 ;Aurora sauce 36 
 
 ' Avignonese (Avignonnaise) sauce 36 
 Ayola sauce 36 
 
 8 Balmoral sauce. 110 
 Banana cream sauce 101 
 
 fU/una and rhubarb sauce 106 
 
 Basil 25 
 
 Batarde sauce (cold) (hot). . .36, 37 
 
 teavaroise sauce 36 
 
 Bay-leaves 25 
 
 Bearnaise sauce 36 
 
 iBearnaise s'ce (brune) (tomate) . 38 
 
 'Bechamel sauce 11, 13, 38 
 
 Bechamel sc., maigre (and white). 38 
 
 'Beef marrow sauce 88 
 
 [Beefsteak sauce 39 
 
 Bercy sauce 39 
 
 >Seurre d'anchois 117 
 
 'Beurre Cremeuse sauce 43 
 
 Beurre a la diable 117 
 
 Seurre d'ecrevisses 120 
 
 3eurre Espagnol 118 
 
 ; 3eurre de homard 119 
 
 3eurre au jambon 1 19 
 
 ieurre a la Madras 117 
 
 \ 3eurre, maitre d'hotel 118 
 
 \ 'Bern-re Montpellier 119 
 
 I Seurre noir, 41; sauce 39 
 
 |3eurre au paprika 120 
 
 L- Jeurre de Raifort 118 
 
 i 3etirre Ravigote 120 
 
 [ Ueurre de Ruisseau 119 
 
 I ieurre, Sauce au 42 
 
 Jeurre au tomate 118 
 
 3igarde sauce 39 
 
 I Slack butter sauce 39 
 
 \ Slanc roux 7 
 
 \ Blanche chaudfroid sauce 47 
 
 < .Blanche sauce 90 
 
 i Blanche sauce matelote 67 
 
 i Blanche sauce champignons 45 
 
 : banquette sauce 39 
 
 t blonde chaud-froid sauce 47 
 
 l ilond roux 7 
 
 i Blood liaison 9 
 
 Boar's head sauce 
 
 Bohemian (Bohemienne) sauce. 
 
 Bonne femme sauce 
 
 Bonnefoy sauce 
 
 Bordeaux sauce 
 
 Bordelaise sauce 
 
 Bourg 
 
 61 
 39 
 
 .. 40 
 ... 40 
 ... 40 
 
 .. 42 
 23,30 
 ...101 
 101 
 
 Bouquet garni 
 
 Brandy butter 
 
 Brandy sauce 
 
 Bread sauce 40 
 
 Breton (Bretonne) sauce 41 
 
 Brown apple sauce 97 
 
 Brown butter sauce 41 
 
 Brown caper sauce 44 
 
 Brown (brune) chaudfroid sauce. 47 
 
 Brown fish sauce 42 
 
 Brown fish sauce, rich 56 
 
 Brown gravy 63 
 
 Brown herb sauce 48 
 
 Brown mushroom sauce 45 
 
 Brown (brim) roux 8 
 
 Brown sauces 13.16 
 
 Brown sauce vs. Espagnole 11 
 
 Brown savory sauce 16 
 
 Brune sauce, bearnaise 3* 
 
 Brune sauce aux capres 44 
 
 Brune sauce, champignons 45 
 
 Brune sauce, matelote 67 
 
 Brune sauce, pour poisson 4z 
 
 Bulgare sauce 42 
 
 Bulgarian sauce, cold 42 
 
 Burgundy sauce 42 
 
 BuiST:. 24 
 
 Butter, anchory 117 
 
 Butter, brandy 101 
 
 Butter, chutney 117 
 
 Butters, compound 116 
 
 Butter. crayfihTT. 120 
 
 Butter, devilled 117 
 
 Butters, flavoring 116 
 
 Butter, green hero 120 
 
 Batter, ham 119 
 
 Butter, horseradish 1 18 
 
 Butter liaison, 8; kneaded. 
 
 Butter, lobster 119 
 
 Butter, mint 118 
 
 Butter, Montpellier 119 
 
 Butter, paprika 120 
 
 Butter, parsley 118 
 
 Butter, pimiento 118 
 
 Butter ravigote 120 
 
 Batter sauce, 42; creamed 43 
 
 Butter sauce, melted 60 
 
 Butter sauce, sweet melted 108 
 
 Butter, shrimp 120 
 
 Butter, Spanish 118 
 
 Butter, tomato 118 
 
 Butter, watercress 119 
 
 Byron sauce 43 
 
 CCalvinesaoee 43 
 Cambridge sauce, 43; cold. . 44 
 
 Canopere sauce 44 
 
 Caper sauce (and brown) 44 
 
 Capres, sauce aux 44 
 
 Capres, brune sauce aux 44 
 
 Caper mayonnaise 95 
 
 Capsicum 25 
 
 Caramel, liquid 33 
 
122 
 
 THE BOOK OF SAUCES 
 
 Caramel sauce 101 
 
 Cardinal sauce 44 
 
 Cardinale, mayonnaise a la 95 
 
 Carrots 27 
 
 Catsup, chutney (cucumber) 110 
 
 Catsup, Cumberland, mushroom, 
 
 tomato, walnut Ill 
 
 Cayenne pepper 22 
 
 Celeri, creme de 45 
 
 Celery cream sauce 45 
 
 Celery sauce 44 
 
 Champagne sauce 45 
 
 Champignons sauce blanche 45 
 
 Champignons sauce, brune 45 
 
 Chasseur sauce (Royal) 46 
 
 Chateaubriand sauce 48 
 
 Chaudeau sauce 102 
 
 Chaudfroids 16 
 
 Chaudfroid sauce, blanche, 
 blonde, brown (brune), fawn, 
 
 green, pink, white 47 
 
 Chaudfroid sauce, sweet 107 
 
 Chaude sauce aux concombres.. . 50 
 
 Chaude sauce, raifort 61 
 
 Chaud sauce, ravigote 79 
 
 Cherry sauce 98, 102 
 
 Chervil 24 
 
 Chestnut sauce 47 
 
 Chestnut sauce (savory) (sweet) . 48 
 
 Chevreuil sauce 48 
 
 Chicken essence 32 
 
 Chicken, hot sauce for fried 78 
 
 Chocolate sauce (cold) 102 
 
 Chopped parsley 32 
 
 Chutnee sauce, tomato 115 
 
 Chutney butter, 117; catsup. . . .110 
 
 Chutney sauce 48 
 
 Cinnamon 21 
 
 Citron, sauce au 63 
 
 Claret sauce 103 
 
 Cloves 20 
 
 Coffee sauce 103 
 
 Colbert sauce aux fines herbes ... 48 
 
 Cold batarde sauce 37 
 
 Cold Bulgarian sauce 42 
 
 )old Cambridge sauce 44 
 
 \Jold chocolate sauce 102 
 
 Jold cucumber sauce 49 
 
 Cold game sauce 50 
 
 Dold horseradish cream 61 
 
 Cold puddings, sweet sauces for . 100 
 
 Cold ravigotte sauce 79 
 
 Cold salad sauces 16 
 
 Cold sauces 15 
 
 Cold strawberry sauce 108 
 
 Cold Swedish sauce 84 
 
 Cold sweet sauces 16 
 
 Coffee custard sauce 103 
 
 Compound butters 116 
 
 Compound sauces 34 
 
 Concombres, chaude sauce aux. . 50 
 
 Concombres, sauce aux 49 
 
 Condiment scs. (table) (kitchen). 109 
 
 Coriander 21 
 
 Cornflour sauce 108 
 
 Crab sauce 50 
 
 Cranberry sauce 50, 98 
 
 Crapaudine sauce 46 
 
 Crayfish butter, 120; sauce 52 
 
 Cream anchovy 36 
 
 Cream, aspic 49 
 
 Cream, cold horseradish 61 
 
 Cream liaison 8 
 
 Cream sauce 49 
 
 Cream sauce, banana 101 
 
 Cream sauce, celery 45 
 
 Cream savory 49 
 
 Cream sauce, tomato 86 
 
 Cream sauce, tarragon 114 
 
 Creamed butter sauce 43 
 
 Creme d' anchois 36 
 
 Creme a 1'aspic 49 
 
 Creme de celeri 45 
 
 Creme de Raifort, froid 61 
 
 Creme, sauce a la 49 
 
 Creme a la tomate sauce 86 
 
 Cremeuse sauce, beurre 43 
 
 Crevettes, sauce aux 82 
 
 Croutes, sweet sauces for 100 
 
 Cucumber catsup 110 
 
 Cucumber sauce, hot, cold 49, 50 
 
 Cumberland catsup Ill 
 
 Cumberland sauce 50, 95 
 
 Curacoa sauce 104 
 
 Curry 21 
 
 Curry sauce, Indian 62 
 
 Curry (currie) sauce 51 
 
 Custard sauce (coffee) 103 
 
 Cutlets, reforme, sauce for 79 
 
 T\ Damso^ sauce 98 
 
 *-^ Danish (Danoise) sauce .... 51 
 
 Demi-glace sauce 51 
 
 Demi-pro vencale sauce 78 
 
 Devilled butter (beurre) 117 
 
 Deviled sauce 52 
 
 Diable, sauce (a la) .52, 95 
 
 Distinction between gravies and 
 
 sauces 6 
 
 Dressing, salad (Spanish) 113 
 
 Duchesse sauce 52 
 
 Dunraven sauce 112 
 
 Dutch sauce, 58, 59; green 60 
 
 Duxelle puree 31 
 
 EEchalote sauce 52 
 Ecrevisses, beurre d' 120 
 
 Ecrevisses, sauce (aux) 52 
 
 Egg liaison 8 
 
 Egg sauce, 72; anchovy 36 
 
 Empress sauce 112 
 
 Epicure (epicurean) sauce .... 52, 53 
 
 Espagnol, beurre 118 
 
 Espagnole vs. brown sauce 11 
 
 Espagnole sauce 11, 53 
 
 Essence, chicken 32 
 
 Essence de Gibier sauce 54 
 
 Essence, to make 10 
 
 Essences of meat 10 
 
 Essence de volaille 32 
 
 Estragon, sauce a 1' 54 
 
 F Farinaceous liaison 9 
 
 Farmhouse sauce 54 
 
 Fawn chaudfroid sauce 47 
 
 Fawn roux 7 
 
 Fennel (fenouil) sauce 54 
 
 Fermiere sauce 54 
 
 Financiere sauce 54 
 
 Fine herb sauce 65 
 
THE BOOK OF SAUCES 
 
 123 
 
 Fines herbes sauce, Colbert 48 
 
 Fines herbes, mayonnaise aux. . . 94 
 
 Fish sauce, brown 42 
 
 Fish sauce, rich brown 56 
 
 Fish sauce (white) 91 
 
 Fish, savory sauces for 34 
 
 Fish stock 30 
 
 Flamande sauce 54 
 
 Flavoring butters 116 
 
 Flavoring and seasoning 17 
 
 Flemish sauce 54 
 
 Fleurette sauce 54 
 
 Foam sauce 104 
 
 Frappee, Raifort sauce 61 
 
 Fried Chicken, hot sauce for 78 
 
 Fritters, sweet sauces for 100 
 
 Froid creme de raifort 61 
 
 Froid ravigotte sauce 79 
 
 Fruit salad, almond sauce for ... 100 
 
 Fruit sauces 97 
 
 Fruit timbales, sweet sauces for.,100 
 Fumet, 11; of game (de gibier) . . 31 
 
 GGame sauce, 55; cold 50 
 
 Game, savory sauces for 34 
 
 Game, fumet of 31 
 
 Garibaldi sauce 55 
 
 Garlic 26 
 
 Gelee, mayonnaise a la 95 
 
 Generate sauce 55 
 
 Genoise sauce 55 
 
 Gibier sauce, 55; essence de . . . . 54 
 
 Gibier, fumet de 31 
 
 Giblet sauce 56 
 
 Ginger 28 
 
 Glacee sauce, verte 88 
 
 Glace de viande 31 
 
 Glaze, meat 31 
 
 Good woman sauce 38 
 
 Gooseberry sauce 56, 98 
 
 Gouffe sauce 56 
 
 Granyille sauce 57 
 
 Gravies and sauces, distinction 
 
 between 6 
 
 Gravy, brown 63 
 
 Gravy, without meat 57 
 
 Green chaudfroid sauce 47 
 
 Green Dutch sauce 60 
 
 Green herb sauce, 87; butter ... 120 
 
 Green mayonnaise 94 
 
 Green mousseline sauce 57, 71 
 
 Green sauce, iced 88 
 
 Gribiche sauce 57 
 
 Groseilles vertes, sauce aux 56 
 
 O Hache, persil 32 
 
 * * Hachis sauce 58 
 
 Half-glaze sauce 51 
 
 Ham butter 119 
 
 Ham sauce 58 
 
 Hard sauce 104 
 
 Herbs, aromatic 23 
 
 Herb sauce, brown 48 
 
 Herbes sauce, Colbert 48 
 
 Herb sauce, line 65 
 
 Herb sauce, tarragon 114 
 
 Hessoise sauce 58 
 
 Hints on stock making 29 
 
 History of sauce making 3 
 
 Hollandaise sauce 58, 59 
 
 Hollandaise sauce, inexpensive . . 59 
 
 Hollandaise sauce, verte 60 
 
 Holstein sauce 60 
 
 Homard, Beurre de, 119; sauce. . 64 
 
 Horly sauce 60 
 
 Horseradish butter 118 
 
 Horseradish cream, cold 61 
 
 Horseradish sauce 60 
 
 Horseradish sauce (hot) (iced).. . 61 
 
 Hot batarde sauce 37 
 
 Hot cucumber sauce 50 
 
 Hot plain sauces 15 
 
 Hot puddings, sweet sauces for. . 100 
 
 Hot ravigote sauce 79 
 
 Hot sauce for fried chicken 78 
 
 Hot sauces (list) 15 
 
 Hot savory sauces 16 
 
 Hot strawberry sauce 108 
 
 Hot Swedish (Suedoise), sauce . . 84 
 
 Hot sweet sauces 16 
 
 Huitres, sauce aux 74 
 
 Hure de sanglier sauce 61 
 
 Ilced green sauce 88 
 Iced horseradish sauce 61 
 
 Indian curry sauce 62 
 
 Indienne sauce, 62; remoulade. . 96 
 Inexpensive hollandaise sauce ... 59 
 Italian (Italienne) sauce 62 
 
 J Jamaica sauce 104 
 Jambon, beurre au 119 
 
 Jambon sauce 58 
 
 Jelly (aspic) (savory) 34 
 
 Joinville sauce 62 
 
 Juice, meat 32 
 
 Jus, 63; Jus-gravy 57 
 
 Jus d'orange sauce 74 
 
 KKari sauce 63 
 Kirsch sauce 105 
 
 Kitchen, condiment sauces for. . . 109 
 
 Kitchen, relish sauces for 109 
 
 Kneaded butter liaison 9 
 
 Krona pepper 23 
 
 L Lemons 28 
 Lemon sauce, 63; sweet. ... 107 
 
 Liaisons 6 
 
 Liaison, blood, farinaceous 9 
 
 Liaison, butter, cream, egg, roux . 8 
 
 Liaisons (in general) 32 
 
 Liaison, kneaded butter 9 
 
 Liqueur sauce 105 
 
 Liquid caramel 33 
 
 Livournaise sauce 64 
 
 Lobster sauce, 64; butter 119 
 
 Long pepper 22 
 
 Lyonnaise sauce 64 
 
 MMace.... 21 
 
 Maderia (Madere), sauce. .. 64 
 Madras, beurre a la, 117; sauce. 112 
 
 Maigre sauce, bechamel 38 
 
 Maintenon sauce 6-5 
 
 Maitre d'hotel beurre, 118; sauce 65 
 
 Malaga sauce 65 
 
 Maltaise sauce 65 
 
 Maraschino sauce 105 
 
 Marchand de vin sauce 68 
 
124 
 
 THE BOOK OF SAUCES 
 
 Marguery sauce 66 
 
 Marinade sauce 66 
 
 Mariniere sauce 66 
 
 Marjoram 25 
 
 Marmalade sauce 105 
 
 Marseillaise sauce 67 
 
 Matelote sauce (blanche) (brune). 67 
 
 Maximilian sauce 68 
 
 Mayonnaise 92 
 
 Mayonnaise, aspic 36 
 
 Mayonnaise, caper, cardinale, 
 
 gelee, truffle, Portugaise 95 
 
 Mayonnaise, fine herbes, green, 
 
 tomato 94 
 
 Mayonnaise, plain 93 
 
 Mayonnaise sauce, 68; tomatee. 69 
 
 Meat glaze 31 
 
 Meat juice 32 
 
 Meat, savory sauces for 34 
 
 Medicis sauce 69 
 
 Melted butter sauce, 69; sweet .108 
 
 Menthe, sauce a la 69 
 
 Mignonette pepper 22 
 
 Mint, 25; butter, 118; sauce. ... 69 
 
 Mirabeau sauce 70 
 
 Mirepoix 9 
 
 Miroton sauce 70 
 
 Moelle de boeuf, sauce 38 
 
 Moka pudding sauce 105 
 
 Montpellier butter (buerre) 119 
 
 Mornay sauce 70 
 
 Moules, sauce aux 72 
 
 Mousseline sauce, green 57, 71 
 
 Mousseline sauce, sweet 108 
 
 Mousseline sauce, verte 57, 71 
 
 Mousseline sauce, white 70 
 
 Moutarde sauce 71 
 
 Mushroom catsup Ill 
 
 Mushrooms, to chop 32 
 
 Mushroom sauce (brown) (white). 45 
 
 Mussel sauce 72 
 
 Mustard, 21; sauce 71 
 
 NNantua sauce 72 
 Newcastle sauce 112 
 
 Nicoise sauce 72 
 
 Noisette sauce 72 
 
 Nonpareille sauce 72 
 
 Nonnande sauce 72 
 
 Norvegienne sauce 72 
 
 Nut sauce 72 
 
 Nutmeg 20 
 
 Nutmeg sauce 105 
 
 OOeufs, anchois, sauce aux. . . 36 
 Oeufs, sauce aux 72 
 
 Oignons, sauce aux 73 
 
 Onions 26 
 
 Onion, to chop 32 
 
 Onion sauce 73, 113 
 
 Oporto sauce 99 
 
 Orange sauce. 73, 98, 106 
 
 Orange sauce, jus 74 
 
 Orange sauce, sweet 108 
 
 Orlay sauce 60 
 
 Oseille sauce 74 
 
 Oyster sauce 74 
 
 Overcooking of sauces 14 
 
 ~'~~g, error in 14 
 
 PPain, sauce au 40 
 Paprika butter (beurre) 120 
 
 Paprika sauce 75 
 
 Parisienne sauce 75 
 
 Parsley 23 
 
 Parsley butter 118 
 
 Parsley, chopped 32 
 
 Parsley sauce 65, 75 
 
 Pauvre homme sauce 77 
 
 Pekoe sauce 75 
 
 Pepper, cayenne, long, mignon- 
 ette 22 
 
 Pepper, Krona 23 
 
 Pepper or salt, pinch of 23 
 
 Pepper sauce 77, 96 
 
 Perigueux sauce 75 
 
 Persil hache 32 
 
 Persil sauce 75 
 
 Perisilade sauce 75 
 
 Piment sauce 75 
 
 Pimiento butter US 
 
 Pink chaudfroid sauce 47 
 
 Piquante (tartare) sauce 76 
 
 Plain mayonnaise 93 
 
 Plain sauces 13-15 
 
 Plain sauces, hot 15 
 
 Plants, aromatic 23 
 
 Poisson, brun sauce pour 42 
 
 Poiyrade sauce 77 
 
 Polish sauce 77 
 
 Polonaise sauce 77 
 
 Pompadour sauce 77 
 
 Poor man's sauce 77 
 
 Portugaise, mayonnaise a la 95 
 
 Portugaise sauce 77 
 
 Poulette sauce 77 
 
 Poultry, savory sauces for 34 
 
 Prawn sauce 52 
 
 Preparations from stocks 30 
 
 Prince de Galles sauce 78 
 
 Prince of Wales sauce 78 
 
 Princesse sauce 78 
 
 Provencale sauce 78 
 
 Pudding sauce, Moka 105 
 
 Puddmgs, sweet sauces for 
 
 (cold) (hot) 100 
 
 Punch syrup 106 
 
 Puree, Duxelle 31 
 
 Q Queen Mary sauce 113 
 
 D Raifort, beurre de 118 
 
 ^ Raifort, creme de, f roid .... 61 
 Raifort sauce, chaude (f rappee). . 61 
 
 Raisin sauce 99 
 
 Raisin sauce, red wine 100 
 
 Raspberry sauce 107 
 
 Ravigote butter (beurre) 120 
 
 Ravigote sauce 96 
 
 Ravigote sauce (cold, hot, chaud- 
 froid) 79 
 
 Recipes, auxiliary or sauces 30 
 
 Reduction of sauces 15 
 
 Red wine raisin sauce 100 
 
 Reforme cutlets, sauce for 79 
 
 Reforme sauce 79 
 
 Regent (Regence), sauce 79 
 
 Re : ne Marie sauce 113 
 
 Relish sauces (kitchen) (table).. 109 
 Remoulade sauce .79, 96 
 
THE BOOK OF SAUCES 
 
 125 
 
 Remoulade sauce a I'lndienne. . . 96 
 
 Rhubarb and banana sauce 106 
 
 Ricardo sauce 80 
 
 Rich brown fish sauce 56 
 
 Riche sauce 80 
 
 R'chelieu sauce 80 
 
 Robert sauce 80 
 
 Roman (romaine) sauce 8C 
 
 Rouennaise sauce 80 
 
 Roux, blanc, blond, fawn, white. 7 
 Roux, brown (brun), liaison, 
 
 stock 8 
 
 Royal sauce 80 
 
 Royal chasseur sauce 46 
 
 Ruisseau, beurre de 119 
 
 Ruisseau sauce 9C 
 
 Rum sauce 106 
 
 Russian (Russe) sauce 81 
 
 S Sauce, admiral 34 
 Sauce aigre douche 34 
 
 Sauce, Albany 35, 109 
 
 Sauce, Albert 35 
 
 Sauce, Albufera 35 
 
 Sauce, Allemande 35 
 
 Sauce, almond (cream) IOC 
 
 Sauce, almond for fruiv salad 100 
 
 Sauce American (Americaine) . . . 35 
 
 Sauce anchois aux oeufs 36 
 
 Sauce anchovy (anchois) 35 
 
 Sauce, anchovy egg 36 
 
 Sauce, apple 97 
 
 Sauce, apricot 101 
 
 Sauce, Aurora 36 
 
 Sauces, auxiliary recipes for 30 
 
 Sauce Avignonese (aise) 36 
 
 Sauce ayola 36 
 
 Sauce, Balmoral 110 
 
 Sauce, banana cream 101 
 
 Sauce, banana and rhubarb 106 
 
 Sauce batarde, hot 36 
 
 Sauce, bavaroise 36 
 
 Sauce, bearnaise 36 
 
 Sauce, bearnaise, brune, tomatee 38 
 
 Sauce, bechamel 11, 13, 38 
 
 Sauce, bechamel, maigre, white . 38 
 
 Sauce, beef marrow 33 
 
 Sauce, beefsteak 39 
 
 Sauce, Bercy 39 
 
 Sauce au beurre 42 
 
 Sauce, beurre cremeuse 43 
 
 Sauce, beurre-noir 39 
 
 Sauce, bigarade 39 
 
 Sauce black, butter 39 
 
 Sauce blanche 90 
 
 Sauce, blanquette 39 
 
 Sauce, blonde chaudfroid 47 
 
 Sauce, boar's head 61 
 
 Sauce, Bohemian (Bohemienne) . 39 
 
 Sauce, bonne femme 39 
 
 Sauce, bonnefoy 40 
 
 Sauce, bordeaux 40 
 
 Sauce, bordelaise 40 
 
 Sauce, Bourgugonne 42 
 
 Sauce, brandy 101 
 
 Sauce, bread 40 
 
 Sauce, Breton (Bretonne) 41 
 
 Sauces, brown 13-16 
 
 Sauce, brown apple 97 
 
 Sauce, brown caper 44 
 
 Sauce, brown butter 41 
 
 Sauce, brown chaudfroid 47 
 
 Sauce, brown, vs. Espagnole .... 11 
 
 Sauce, brown, fish 42 
 
 Sauce, brown herb 48 
 
 Sauce, brown mushroom 45 
 
 Sauces, brown savory 16 
 
 Sauce, brune chaudfroid 47 
 
 Sauce, brune, pour poisson 42 
 
 Sauce, Bulgard 42 
 
 Sauce, Burgundy 42 
 
 Sauce, butter 42 
 
 ,uce, Byron 43 
 
 Sauce, Calville 43 
 
 Sauce, Cambridge 43 
 
 Sauce, Canopere 44 
 
 Sauce, caper (capres) brune 44 
 
 Sauce, caramel 101 
 
 Sauce, cardinal 44 
 
 Sauce, celery 44 
 
 Sauce, celery cream 45 
 
 Sauce, champagne 45 
 
 Sauce champignons (blanche) 
 
 (brune) 45 
 
 Sauces, characteristic of 14 
 
 Sauce, chasseur 46 
 
 Sauce Chateaubriand 46 
 
 Sauce, chaudeau 102 
 
 Sauce, chaudfroid (blanche) 47 
 
 Sauce, cherry 98, 102 
 
 Sauce, chestnut 47 
 
 Sauce, chevreuil 48 
 
 Sauce, chocolate 102 
 
 Sauce, chutney 48 
 
 Sauce au citron 63 
 
 Sauce, claret 103 
 
 Sauce, coffee (custard) 103 
 
 Sauce, Colbert, fines herbes 48 
 
 Sauces, cold 15-16 
 
 Sauce, cold batarde 37 
 
 Sauce, cold Bulgarian 41 
 
 Sauce, cold Cambridge 4$ 
 
 Sauces, cold, chaudfroids If 
 
 Sauce, cold chocolate 10> 
 
 Sauce, cold cucumber 4f 
 
 Sauce, cold game 50 
 
 Sauce, cold ravigotte 7f 
 
 Sauces, cold salad 19 
 
 Sauce, cold salmon 81 
 
 Sauce, cold strawberry 108 
 
 Sauce, cold, Swedish 84 
 
 Sauces, cold sweet 16 
 
 Sauces, compound 34 
 
 Sauce aux concombers, chaude.49, 50 
 Sauces, condiment (kitchen) 
 
 (table 109 
 
 Sauce, cornflour 10S 
 
 Sauce, crab 59 
 
 Sauce, cranberry 59, 93 
 
 Sauce, crapaudine 46 
 
 Sauce, crayfish 52 
 
 Sauce cream (creme) 49 
 
 Sauce, creamed butter 43 
 
 Sauce, creme tomate 86 
 
 Sauce aux crevettes 82 
 
 Sauce, Cumberland 50, 95 
 
 Sauce, curacoa 104 
 
 Sauce, curry (currie) 51 
 
 Sauce, custard 103 
 
 Sauce, for cutlets, reforme 79 
 
126 
 
 THE BOOK OF SAUCES 
 
 Sauce, damson 98 
 
 Sauce, Danish (Danoise) 51 
 
 Sauce, demi-glace 51 
 
 Sauce, demi-provencale 78 
 
 Sauce, deviled (diable) 52 
 
 Sauce a la diable 95 
 
 Sauce, duchesse 52 
 
 Sauce, Dunraven 112 
 
 Sauce, Dutch 58, 59 
 
 Sauce echalote 52 
 
 Sauce, cerevisse 52 
 
 Sauce, egg 72 
 
 Sauce empress 112 
 
 Sauce, epicure (ep curienne) . . 52, 53 
 
 Sauce, espagnole 53 
 
 Sauce espagnole (vs. brown sc) . . 11 
 
 Sauce, essence de gibier 54 
 
 Sauce a 1'estragon 54 
 
 Sauce, farmhouse 54 
 
 Sauce, fawn chaudfroid 47 
 
 Sauce fennel (fenouil) 54 
 
 Sauce fermiere 54 
 
 Sauce fmanciere 54 
 
 Sauce, fine herb 65 
 
 Sauce, fish 91 
 
 Sauce Flemish (Flamande) 54 
 
 Sauce fleurette 54 
 
 Sauce, foam 104 
 
 Sauces, foundation 11 
 
 Sauces, fruit 97 
 
 Sauce, game 55 
 
 Sauce, Garibaldi 55 
 
 Sauce, gauffe 56 
 
 Sauce, generale 55 
 
 Sauce, Genoise 55 
 
 Sauce, gibier 55 
 
 Sauce, giblet 56 
 
 Sauce, glacee verte 88 
 
 Sauce, Granville 57 
 
 Sauce, good woman 39 
 
 Sauce, gooseberry 56, 98 
 
 Sauces and gravies, distinction 
 
 between 6 
 
 Sauce, green chaudfroid 47 
 
 Sauce, green Dutch 60 
 
 Sauce, green herb 87 
 
 Sauce, green mousseline 57, 71 
 
 Sauce, Gribiche 57 
 
 Sauce aux groseilles vertes 56 
 
 Sauce, hachis 58 
 
 Sauce, half-glaze 51 
 
 Sauce, ham 58 
 
 Sauce, hard. 104 
 
 Sauce Hessoise 58 
 
 Sauce hollandaise (and inex- 
 pensive) 58-59 
 
 Sauce, hollandaise verte 60 
 
 Sauce Holstein 60 
 
 Sauce, homard 64 
 
 Sauce Horly 60 
 
 Sauce, horseradish 60 
 
 Sauces, hot 15 
 
 Sauce, hot batarde 37 
 
 Sauce, hot cucumber 50 
 
 Sauce, hot (fried chicken) 78 
 
 Sauce, hot horseradish 61 
 
 Sauces, hot, list of 15 
 
 Sauces, hot, plain 15 
 
 Sauce, hot ravigote 79 
 
 Sauces, hot savory 16 
 
 .....j, hot, sweet 15, 16 
 
 i,uce, hot strawberry 108 
 
 Sauce, hot Swedish 84 
 
 Sauces, how to tammy 33 
 
 Sauce huitres (aux) 74 
 
 Sauce, hure de sanglier 61 
 
 Sauce, iced green 88 
 
 Sauce, iced horseradish 61 
 
 Sauce, Indian curry 62 
 
 Sauce, Indienne 62 
 
 Sauce, Italian (Italienne) 62 
 
 Sauce, Jamaica 104 
 
 Sauce, jambon 58 
 
 Sauce, Joinville 62 
 
 Sauce, jus d' orange 74 
 
 Sauce, kari 63 
 
 Sauce, Kirsch 105 
 
 Sauce, lemon 63 
 
 Sauce, liqueur 105 
 
 Sauce, livournaise 64 
 
 Sauce, lobster 64 
 
 Sauce, Lyonnaise 64 
 
 Sauce madeira (madere) 64 
 
 Sauce, Madras 112 
 
 Sauce maintenon 65 
 
 Sauce, maitre d' hotel 65 
 
 Sauce making, history of 3 
 
 Sauce, malaga 65 
 
 Sauce, Maltise 65 
 
 Sauce, marmalade 105 
 
 Sauce, maraschino 105 
 
 Sauce, marchand de vin 66 
 
 Sauce Marguery 66 
 
 Sauce, marinade 66 
 
 Sauce mariniere 66 
 
 Sauce, Marseillaise 67 
 
 Sauce, matelote, blanche, brune . 67 
 Sauce, Maximilian. 
 
 Sauce mayonnaise 68 
 
 Sauce, Medicis 69 
 
 Sauce, melted butter 69 
 
 Sauce, melted butter, sweet 108 
 
 Sauce, mint (menthe) 69 
 
 Sauce, mirabeau 70 
 
 Sauce, miroton 70 
 
 Sauce, moelle de boeuf 38 
 
 Sauce, Moka pudding 105 
 
 Sauce, Mornay 70 
 
 Sauce aux moules 72 
 
 Sauce moutarde 71 
 
 Sauce, mushroom, brown, white. 45 
 
 Sauce, mussel 72 
 
 Sauce mousseline verte 57 
 
 Sauce mustard 71 
 
 Sauce, Nantua 72 
 
 Sauce, Newcastle 112 
 
 Sauce Nicoise 72 
 
 Sauce noisette 72 
 
 Sauce nonparielle 72 
 
 Sauce Normande 72 
 
 Sauce Norvegienne 72 
 
 Sauce, nut 72 
 
 Sauce, nutmeg 105 
 
 Sauce aux oeufs (dur) 72 
 
 Sauce aux oignons 73 
 
 Sauce, onion 73, 113 
 
 Sauce, Oporto 99 
 
 Sauce, orange 73, 98, 106 
 
 Sauce, Orly 60 
 
 Sauce, oseille 74 
 
THE BOOK OF SAUCES 
 
 127 
 
 Sauces, overcooking of 14 
 
 Sauce, oyster 74 
 
 Sauce au pain 40 
 
 Sauce, paprika 75 
 
 Sauce, Parisienne 75 
 
 Sauce, parsley 65, 75 
 
 Sauce, pauvre homme 77 
 
 Sauce Pekoe 75 
 
 Sauce, pepper 77, 96 
 
 Sauce perigueux 75 
 
 Sauce persU (persillade) 75 
 
 Sauce piment 75 
 
 Sauce, pink chaudfroid 47 
 
 Sauce, piquante 76 
 
 Sauce, piquante tartare 76 
 
 Sauces, plain 13, 15 
 
 Sauce, poivrade 77 
 
 Sauce Polish 77 
 
 Sauce Polonaise 77 
 
 Sauce pompadour 77 
 
 Sauce, poor man's 77 
 
 Sauce, Portugaise 77 
 
 Sauce, poulette 77 
 
 Sauce, prawn 52 
 
 Sauce princesse 78 
 
 Sauce, Prince de Galles 78 
 
 Sauce, Prince of Wales 78 
 
 Sauce, provencale 78 
 
 Sauce, Queen Mary 113 
 
 Sauce Raifort, chaude, f rappee .. 61 
 
 Sauce, raisin 99 
 
 Sauce, raspberry 107 
 
 Sauce, ravigote 96 
 
 Sauce, ravigotte chaudfroid 79 
 
 Sauce, red wine rasin 100 
 
 Sauces, reduction of 15 
 
 Sauce, ref onne 79 
 
 Sauce, regent (regence) 79 
 
 Sauce Reine-Marie 113 
 
 Sauces, relish (kitchen) (table) . . 109 
 
 Sauce, remoulade 79, 96 
 
 Sauce, remoulade, Indienne 96 
 
 Sauce, rhubarb and banana 106 
 
 Sauce, Ricardo 80 
 
 Sauce, rich brown fish 56 
 
 Sauce, riche 80 
 
 Sauce, Richelieu 80 
 
 Sauce, Robert 80 
 
 Sauce, Roman (Romaine) 80 
 
 Sauce Rouennaise 80 
 
 Sauce, Royal 80 
 
 Sauce, Royal chasseur 46 
 
 Sauce Ruisseau 90 
 
 Sauce, rum 106 
 
 Sauce, Ruspian (Russe) 81 
 
 Sauce, sabayon 107 
 
 Sauce, salmi salmy 81 
 
 Sauces, salad 16, 92 
 
 Sauces, savory 16, 34 
 
 Sauce, savory chestnut 48 
 
 Sauces, savory, for fish, game, 
 
 meat, poultry, vegetables 34 
 
 Sauce, Seville 82 
 
 Sauce, shallot 52 
 
 Sauce sharp 76, 82 
 
 Sauce, shrimp 82 
 
 Sauces, simple 13 
 
 Sauce, sorrel 74 
 
 Sauce, soubise 82 
 
 Sauce, Soyer 83 
 
 Sauce, Spadicini 81 
 
 Sauce, Spanish 53 
 
 Sauces, stock for 29 
 
 Sauces, store 109 
 
 Sauce, stragotte 84 
 
 Sauce Suedoise, hot 84 
 
 Sauce, sultana 99 
 
 Sauce, supreme 84 
 
 Sauces, sweet 16, 100, 107 
 
 Sauce, sweet chaudfroid 107 
 
 Sauce, sweet chestnut 48 
 
 Sauce, sweet lemon 107 
 
 Sauce, sweet melted butter, 
 
 mousseline, orange 108 
 
 Sauce, tamarind 99 
 
 Sauce, tammy, how to 33 
 
 Sauce, tartare 85, 96 
 
 Sauce, tarragon 54 
 
 Sauce tarragon cream (herb) . . .114 
 
 Sauce, Texas (Texienne) 85 
 
 Sauce, tomato 85, 114 
 
 Sauce, tomato chutnee 115 
 
 Sauce, tomato cream 86 
 
 Sauce, tomato mayonnaise 69 
 
 Sauce, tomato soubise 83 
 
 Sauce, tortue 86 
 
 Sauce trufile 75 
 
 Sauce, turtle 86 
 
 Sauce, universal (universelle) 115 
 
 Sauce, Valancia 109 
 
 Sauce, Valentine 86 
 
 Sauce, Valoise 86 
 
 Sauce, vanilla 109 
 
 Sauces, various kinds of 15 
 
 Sauce, veloute 13, 86 
 
 Sauce, velvet 86 
 
 Sauce venison 48, 87 
 
 Sauce, Venitienne 87 
 
 Sauce, verte mousseline 71 
 
 Sauce, vert-pre 87 
 
 Sauce, Victoria 89 
 
 Sauce, villeroi 88 
 
 Sauce, vinaigrette 89 
 
 Sauce, vin blanc 88 
 
 Sauce, watercress 90 
 
 Sauce, Wargrave 8f 
 
 Sauce, whip 104 
 
 Sauces, white 13, 16 
 
 Sauce, white 90 
 
 Sauce, white bechamel 38 
 
 Sauce, white chaudfroid 47 
 
 Sauce, white fish 91 
 
 Sauce, white mousseline 70 
 
 Sauce, white mushroom 45 
 
 Sauce, white, simple 90 
 
 Sauce, white wine 88 
 
 Sauce, wine 109 
 
 Sauce, wine merchant 66 
 
 Sauce, Worcestershire 115 
 
 Sauce, Xavier 91 
 
 Sauce, Yankee 116 
 
 Sauce, York (Yorkshire) 91 
 
 Sauce, Zingara 92 
 
 Sabayon sauce 107 
 
 Salad sauce, almond, for fruit. . . 100 
 
 Salad sauces 16, 92 
 
 Salad sauces, cold 16 
 
 Salad dressing (Spanish) 113 
 
 Salmon sauce, cold 81 
 
 Salmy sauce (salmi) 81 
 
128 
 
 THE BOOK OF SAUCES 
 
 Salt 19 
 
 Salt or pepper, pinch of 23 
 
 Savory, 25, 47; jelly 34 
 
 Savory chestnut sauce 48 
 
 Savory cream 49 
 
 Savory sauces 16, 34 
 
 Savory sauces, brown, white, hot 16 
 Savory sauces for fish, game, 
 
 meat, poultry, vegetables 34 
 
 Seasoning, characteristic of 14 
 
 Seasoning and flavoring 17 
 
 Seville sauce. . . . . 82 
 
 Shallot 27 
 
 Shallot sauce 52 
 
 Sharp sauce 76, 82 
 
 Shrimp butter 120 
 
 Shrimp sauce 82 
 
 Sicilienne sauce 82 
 
 Simple sauces 13 
 
 Simple white sauce 90 
 
 Sorrel sauce 74 
 
 Soubise sauce 82 
 
 Soubise tomato sauce 83 
 
 Soyer sauce 83 
 
 Spadacini, sauce 83 
 
 Spanish butter 118 
 
 Spanish sauce 53 
 
 Spanish salad dressing 113 
 
 Spices 20 
 
 Spice, aromatic 22 
 
 Stock, fish 30 
 
 Stock making, hints on 29 
 
 Stocks, preparations from 30 
 
 Stock roux 8 
 
 Stock for sauces 29 
 
 Store sauces 109 
 
 Stragotte sauce 84 
 
 Strawberry sauce, cold, hot 108 
 
 Sugar 28 
 
 Suedoise sauce, hot 84 
 
 Sultana sauce 99 
 
 Supreme sauce 84 
 
 Swedish sauce, cold, hot 84 
 
 Sweet lemon sauce 107 
 
 Sweet melted butter sauce 108 
 
 Sweet chaudfroid sauce 107 
 
 Sweet chestnut sauce 48 
 
 Sweet orange sauce 108 
 
 Sweet mousseline sauce 108 
 
 Sweet sauces 16, 100 
 
 Sweet sauce 107 
 
 Sweet sauces, cold 16 
 
 Sweet sauces (forcroutes, fritters, 
 
 fruit timbales) 100 
 
 Sweet sauces, hot 15, 16 
 
 Sweet sauces for puddings, hot, 
 
 sold 100 
 
 Syrup punch 106 
 
 T Tamarind sauce 99 
 Tammy sauces, how to 33 
 
 Tartare sauce 85, 96 
 
 Tartare sauce, piquante 76 
 
 Tarragon 24 
 
 Tarragon cream and herb sauces. 114 
 
 Tarragon sauce 54 
 
 Taste, cook's duty regarding. ... 14 
 
 Texas (Texienne) sauce 85 
 
 Thyme 24 
 
 Timbales, fruit, sweet sauces for. 100 
 
 Tomatee bearnaise sauce 38 
 
 Tomato aspic 36 
 
 Tomato butter (beurre) 118 
 
 Tomato chutnee sauce 115 
 
 Tomato catsup Ill 
 
 Tomato cream sauce 86 
 
 Tomato mayonnaise 94 
 
 Tomato mayonnaise sauce 69 
 
 Tomato sauce 85, 114 
 
 Tomate, sauce creme a la 86 
 
 Tomato sauce, Soubise 83 
 
 Tortue sauce 86 
 
 Truffle mayonnaise 95 
 
 Trufflle sauce 75 
 
 Turnips 27 
 
 Turtle sauce 86 
 
 Universal (universelle) sauce 115 
 
 VValancia sauce 109 
 Valentine sauce 86 
 
 Valoise sauce 86 
 
 Vanilla 28 
 
 Vanilla sauce 109 
 
 Vegetables, savory sauces for 34 
 
 Veloute sauce 13, 86 
 
 Velvet sauce 86 
 
 Venison sauce 48, 87 
 
 Venitienne sauce 87 
 
 Verte glacee sauce 88 
 
 Verte sauce, hollandaise 60 
 
 Verte sauce, mousseline 57, 71 
 
 Vert-pre sauce 87 
 
 Viande, glace de 31 
 
 Victoria sauce 89 
 
 Vinaigrette 97 
 
 Vinaigrette sauce 
 
 Vin blanc sauce 88 
 
 Vinegar 27 
 
 Villeroi sauce 88 
 
 Volaille, essence de 32 
 
 \17Walnut catsup Ill 
 
 Y " Wargrave sauce 89 
 
 Watercress butter 119 
 
 Watercress sauce 90 
 
 Whip sauce 104 
 
 White chaudfroid sauce 47 
 
 White fish sauce 91 
 
 White mousseline sauce 70 
 
 White mushroom sauce 45 
 
 White roux 7 
 
 White sauces 13, 16 
 
 White sauce (simple) 90 
 
 White sauce, bechamel 38 
 
 White savory sauces 16 
 
 White wine sauce 88 
 
 Wine merchant sauce 66 
 
 Wine raisin sauce, red 100 
 
 Wine sauce 109 
 
 Wine sauce, white 88 
 
 Worcestershire sauce 115 
 
 Xavier sauce. . 
 
 91 
 
 Yankee sauce ; 116 
 
 York (Yorkshire) sauce 91 
 
 Zingara sauce. - 92 
 
Popular Handbooks 
 
 for Hotel, Restaurant, Transportation 
 Catering, Institution and Club Use 
 
 Ranhofer's Epicurean: The king of cook books is "The 
 Epicurean," by Charles Ranhofer, of Delmonico's. This 
 book is 1,200 pages, and weighs about ten pounds. It is 
 the most extensive, the most complete, the most readable, 
 the most attractive, and the best all-around cook book 
 that has ever been published. The first chapter is devoted 
 to table service, with instruction in menu-making and the 
 care and service of wines, the decoration of the table, the 
 fixing of the sideboard, complete dining room instructions 
 for the service of course dinners. French and Russian 
 
 144 pages of menus for breakfasts, luncheons, dinners, 
 buffet or standing suppers, collations, hunting parties, 
 garden parties, dancing parties, etc. All dishes in these 
 menus are numbered to conform with recipes for them in 
 the body of the book. There is a chapter on elementary 
 methods, in which even the drudgery work in the kitchen 
 is explained, and all the work done by apprentices in the 
 early stages of hotel kitchen work. The chapter on kitchen 
 utensils is very full, every utensil illustrated. Then come 
 the recipes: 200 soups, 251 sauces, 133 garnishes, 191 side 
 dishes, 101 shell fish, 218 fish, 165 beef, 165 veal, 75 mut- 
 ton, 109 lamb, 48 pork, 224 poultry, 163 game, 198 miscel- 
 laneous entrees, 267 salads, 172 vegetables, 100 eggs, 37 
 farinaceous foods, 233 sweet entrees, 170 cakes, 17 breads, 
 189 ices and iced drinks, 90 confectionery, and several 
 illustrations of centerpieces. There is an exhaustive chapter 
 on wines, several recipes for mixed drinks, and 64 pages 
 devoted to a collection of Delmonico menus. The index 
 occupies 44 double-column pages. There are more than 
 800 illustrations. A most excellent feature of The Epi- 
 curean is that every recipe in it appears under a good 
 honest English name, alongside of which is the translation 
 of it into French. It is beautifully bound in Keratol Levant 
 grain, embossed in gold. Price $7.00 
 
 The Edgewater Beach Hotel Salad Book (Shircliffe). Con- 
 tains more than 600 tested recipes for salads and salad 
 dressings. Mr. Shircliffe has not only given the recipes, 
 but in many cases has supplemented them with author's 
 notes, calling attention to special health-giving features, 
 and suggesting diets for the different ailments that afflict 
 humans. He also takes opportunity to preach many a 
 short sermon on the importance of right eating and what 
 is best for health from the cradle to old age. He also 
 intersperses much of human interest in the way of anec- 
 dote, legend and historic events. In this way it is more 
 than a cook book it is readable to those who are not so 
 much interested in how to make salads as in the enjoy- 
 ment of them. The great charm of the book is the illustra- 
 tions, which are from direct photographs in the natural 
 colors, so that the dishes illustrated have the eye-appeal 
 
and the enticing qualities of the real dish. It is a book 
 that fits into every kitchen home, hotel, club, hospital, 
 restaurant, lunch room, cafeteria, steamship, dining car, 
 industrial catering plant, institution, army mess in fact, 
 wherever information is desired as to the why and how to 
 prepare for the table. Price $5.00 
 
 Salad Portfolio (Shircliffe). A set of beautiful illustra- 
 tions of salads taken from the Edgewater Beach Salad 
 Book. They are mounted on heavy green cover stock, 
 11 x 16 inches, each showing three or four of the salads 
 and are suitable for framing. The portfolio may be used 
 by the maitre d'hotel to assist him in selling party menus. 
 The illustrations are so natural and appetizing that they 
 make strong appeal to patrons when selecting the salad 
 course for special menus. Also these pictures serve as a 
 guide to pantry girls, showing them how the finished salad 
 should look. Price $2.00 
 
 The Edgewater Sandwich Book (Shircliffe). Supplemented 
 with chapters on hors d'oeuvres, supremes, canapes and 
 relishes. More than 600 recipes. This book is by the author 
 of the Edgewater Salad Book, the most important culinary 
 book produced in recent years. There are thirty illustra- 
 tions of sandwiches and hors d'oeuvres. It will meet the 
 requirements of all kinds of refreshment places from the 
 soda fountain to lunch room, tea room and high-class 
 restaurant. Bound in convenient pocket size. Price. . .$2.00 
 
 The Hotel St. Francis Cook Book (Hirtzler). The author 
 was chef of Hotel St. Francis, San Francisco. Adapted for 
 hotels, restaurants, clubs, coffee rooms, families and every 
 place where high-class, wholesome cuisine is desired. This 
 is the most important culinary book that has come from 
 any press in the last twenty-five years. Mr. Hirtzler is 
 known thruout Europe and America as one of the ablest 
 chefs of the day. He made the cuisine of the Hotel St. 
 Francis world-famous. A feature of the Hotel St. Francis 
 Cook Book that will be appreciated by thousands of hotel 
 people, caterers, families and all interested in home eco- 
 nomics, is the selection and preparation of foods in sea- 
 son ; the presentation of breakfast, luncheon and dinner 
 menus for every day in the year the selections appro- 
 priate, and all dishes actually prepared and served in the 
 Hotel St. Francis. This feature of the book gives a sugges- 
 tive quality, a reminder attribute, and a knowledge of food 
 economies and food attributes that is hereby brought to 
 the aid of the proficient and the learner, also enables even 
 the inexperienced to produce the well-balanced menu. The 
 Hotel St. Francis Cook Book is indexed and cross indexed 
 so that every recipe can be referred to on the instant. 
 Price $3.00 
 
 A Selection of Dishes and The Chef's Reminder (Chas. 
 Fellows). The book that has met with the largest sale and 
 is in most demand from managers, stewards and cooks. Is 
 in vest pocket form, 220 pages. The most complete and 
 serviceable pocket reference book to culinary matters that 
 has ever been published. It is not a cook book, in the gen- 
 eral sense of the word, but is full of ideas and suggestions 
 regarding bill-of-fare dishes. Chapters are devoted to en- 
 trees of all kinds, salads, soups, consommes, fish and their 
 sauces, sauces in general, garnishes, fancy potatoes, miscel- 
 laneous recipes, hints to cooks and stewards, suggestions 
 for breakfast, lunch and supper dishes, chafing dish cook- 
 ery, menus, and a pronouncing glossary of culinary terms. 
 Hundreds of the dishes listed are given with their bill-of- 
 
fare names only, as the cooks understand the basic work 
 in preparing dishes, and the sauces and gardnishes are 
 treated separately, with information as to their component 
 parts. Thousands of men who possess a copy of this book 
 say it is their greatest help. Printed on bond paper, bound 
 in flexible cover. Price $1.00 
 
 The Culinary Handbook (Chas. Fellows). Presents in 
 concise form information regarding the preparation and 
 service of nearly 4,000 different bill-of-fare dishes; also 
 gives much information of encyclopedic nature regarding 
 foods of all kinds. Quick reference to every dish prescribed 
 is facilitated with an index of 39 columns arranged in 
 alphabetical order, and cross indexed, so that no matter 
 what one is looking for, all he has to do is to find the 
 initial letter and under it, in alphabetical order, for sec- 
 ond, third and fourth letters, etc., the article wanted, with 
 page on which it is found. Referring, for instance, to a 
 sauce of any particular kind. Find the word Sauce in the 
 index, and under it will be found in alphabetical order 149 
 different sauces; and under Salads, 71 different kinds, 
 exclusive of the variations in making. Under head of Sau- 
 sage there are 45 different kinds described, with directions 
 for making as well as cooking and serving. In fact, the 
 sausage information in this book is more complete than in 
 any other published. 190 pages; 7x10 inches $2.00 
 
 Fellows' Menu Maker is the last of the successful ready 
 reference books compiled by Chas. Fellows, author of "A 
 Selection of Dishes and The Chef's Reminder" and "The 
 Culinary Handbook." In this book Mr. Fellows has com- 
 piled in concise form thousands of suggestions for daily 
 changes on the bills-of-fare, both American and European 
 plan, for breakfast, luncheon and dinner cards, and so ar- 
 ranged as to give popular changes from day to day to give 
 acceptable variety. These changes include soups, fish, 
 boildes, entrees, roasts and specials. In their presentation 
 he starts with typical bills-of-fare, and the changes are 
 such as might be made in these bills from day to day. 
 Also he has presented a chapter entitled "Suggestions for 
 Specials for the Day," in which the dishes are priced and 
 underlined with brief information regarding their composi- 
 tion. Also, he submits several sample menus for business 
 lunches, banquets, and small party dinners, and one very 
 serviceable feature of the book is a list of the most pop- 
 ular dishes, as soups, fish, boiled meats, roasts, and 
 entrees. The book is supplemented with 110 pages of sam- 
 ple menus and bills-of-fare, several of them photographic 
 reproductions, and representing the cards of hotels and 
 restaurants of both first and second class, lunch rooms, 
 transportation catering menus, club menus, wine list, 
 caterer's list, and several illustrations of glass, china and 
 silverwares and banquet scenes. The book is indexed; 
 printed on fine quality paper; page 7x10 inches, cloth 
 bound. Price $2.00 
 
 Clarenbach's Hotel Accounting. In writing this book it 
 was Mr. Clarenbach's purpose to outline a simple system 
 of hotel accounting that would meet the needs of the aver- 
 age hotels, particularly of hotels from 50 to 200 rooms. 
 His first book was published in 1908 and the system was 
 adopted by thousands of hotels. Since then there have been 
 two revisions to meet new C9nditions of the more modern 
 hotels. This is the third revision, thoroly up-to-date, and 
 with illustrations that show the actual account books rul- 
 ings and facsimile entries; and the text matter is so clear 
 that one need not be a practical bookkeeper to understand. 
 
The book is in four parts, these covering all departments. 
 It shows how to get storeroom "per dollar" costs'; how to 
 handle the cigar business; how to get an accurate state- 
 ment of the hotel's business from month to month, and a 
 method of auditing the front office. A "Profit and Loss" 
 statement is shown. The text matter emphasizes the impor- 
 tance of being accurate, of a check on every transaction, 
 and the economy of doing things the right way, thus pre- 
 venting vexatious mistakes that take valuable time in mak- 
 ing corrections, and giving the operator the satisfaction 
 that comes from being master of his business. Hotels now 
 having workable accounting systems can find in the Clar- 
 enbach book ideas that may be incorporated by them to 
 advantage. Also they will find the Clarenbach system 
 elastic, and its results can be put on a comparable basis 
 with results obtained fiom other systems of hotel account- 
 ing. The book is supplemented with a chapter headed "An 
 outline of the front office methods of the largest hotel in 
 the world." The book is 9x12 inches and contains 66 
 pages, printed on ledger paper, attractively bound in cloth 
 cover. Price $3.00 
 
 Front Office Psychology (Heldenbrand). This is the only 
 book that outlines rules of conduct for the people in the 
 front office who meet the public, where a pleasing person- 
 ality and correct habit of deportment, speech, dress, and 
 all-around cleanliness makes for ideal salesmanship. The 
 suggestions are classified under different heads as Em- 
 ployee relations, Your personality, Receiving and rooming 
 faests, Handling of mail, Information, Checking out, 
 ront office tactics. The book is written from the prac- 
 tical viewpoint of a student of human nature, and in this 
 respect is a classic. It inspires to an improvement in 
 service and can be read with profit by young and old in 
 the small or the large hotel, or institution, or business 
 house. Pocket size, 5x8 inches, 100 pages. Attractively 
 bound in water-proof cover. (A special price is made to 
 hotels and chains of hotels buying in quantities of ten or 
 more.) Price $1.00 
 
 The Bell-Boy's Guide (Heldenbrand). This book was 
 written with the object of training young men of good 
 habits in the duties customarily performed by bell-boys. 
 It was prepared by the author to instruct those not fa- 
 miliar with hotels in the particular bell-boy work required 
 for his own hotel the Hotel Heldenbrand of Pontiac, 
 Michigan. With slight variation this book will meet the 
 needs of the average hotel thruout America. It is pocket 
 size, 32 pages. (A package of four books for 1.00.) 
 Price $1.00 
 
 Paul Richards' Pastry Book is the title in brief of "Paul 
 Richards' Book of Breads, Cakes, Pastries, Ices and 
 Sweetmeats, Especially Adapted for Hotel and Catering 
 Purposes." The author is known as one of the most skillful 
 all around bakers, pastry cooks and confectioners in 
 America, and has demonstrated the quality of his work in 
 leading hotels. In writing this book he took particular 
 pains to have the recipes reliable and worded in such sim- 
 ple fashion that all who read them may readily understand 
 and work from them. The book is in seven parts. Part I 
 is devoted to fruit jellies and preserves; jams, jellies, 
 compotes and syrups ; preserved crushed fruits for sher- 
 bets and ices; preserving pie fruits ; sugar boiling degrees; 
 colors. Part II, pastry and pie making, pastes and fillings; 
 pastry creams, patty cases, tarts and tartlets; icings. Part 
 III, cake baking. Part IV, puddings and sauces. Part V, 
 
ice creams, ices, punches, etc. Part VI, breads, rolls, buns, 
 etc. Part VII, candy making and miscellaneous recipes; 
 bread economies in hotel ; caterers' price list. The recipes 
 are readily found with the aid of 36 columns of index and 
 cross index in the back of the book, this index forming in 
 itself a complete directory, so to speak, of breads, pastry, 
 ices and sugar foods. Printed on strong white paper; page 
 7x10 inches, 168 pages, bound in cloth $2.00 
 
 Pastry for the Restaurant, by Paul Richards, a vest 
 pocket book of 158 pages, is. as its title indicates, espe- 
 cially produced for the use of bakers employed in restau- 
 rants and European plan hotels. The style of work required 
 for the American plan hotel with table d'hote meal, and that 
 for the European plan hotel restaurant, where each article 
 is sold for a separate price, has brought about a demand 
 for a book with receipts and methods especially adapted 
 for the preparation of bakery and pastry goods for indi- 
 vidual sale. The first chapter is devoted to French pastries, 
 which are now so generally sold, yet so little understood, 
 because of the misnomer title; then follows cakes and 
 tarts of every kind; pies in great variety; puddings, hot 
 and sold ; ices, ice creams, and many specialties, all set 
 forth with ingredients, quantities, and methods of mixing 
 and preparing, and instructions for oven or temperature 
 control. Mr. Richards' other books have become standard 
 the world over, and this one will be equally reliable. The 
 index to this book makes a very complete reference to 
 popular pastry goods and will be found valuable as a 
 reminder. The book is printed on bond paper $1.00 
 
 The Lunch Room (Paul Richards), is the newest of the 
 culinary books and bids fair to become one of the most 
 popular ever produced. In writing this book Mr. Richards 
 covered all branches of the business. In its pages can be 
 found lunch room plans; illustrations of equipment; chap- 
 ters on management, salesmanship and bookkeeping ; sug- 
 gestions for bills-of-fare ; reproduction of articles from 
 technical journals relating to lunch rooms, and about 2,000 
 recipes for lunch room dishes. It is a complete guide to 
 making and marketing lunch room foods and beverages. 
 The book is of particular value, not alone to those who 
 operate lunch rooms, but to hotelkeepers who may con- 
 sider the advisability of putting in a lunch room in con- 
 nection with their business ; a departure that has become 
 very general since so many country hotels are changing to 
 modified American or to European plan, the lunch room 
 being the stepping stone to the change. Printed on fine 
 quality of paper strongly bound $2.00 
 
 The Vest Pocket Pastry Book (John E. Meister). This 
 little book contains 500 recipes, includes 57 for hot pud- 
 dings (pudding sauces, etc.; 77 for cold puddings, side 
 dishes, jellies, etc. ; 90 for ice creams, water ices, punches, 
 etc.; 68 for pastes, patties, pies, tarts, etc.; 77 for cake; 
 17 for icings, colorings, sugars, etc.; 60 for bread, rolls, 
 yeast raised cakes, griddle cakes, etc., as well as 55 mis- 
 cellaneous recipes. Mr. Meister wrote this book at the 
 request of the editor of The Hotel Monthly, who had heard 
 his work highly complimented by his employers, who said 
 they believed him to have no superior as as first-class 
 workman. The recipes, while given in few words, yet are 
 easily understandable, and have helped thousands of bakers 
 to improve their work. Book is indexed ; printed on bond 
 paper. Price $1.00 
 
The Vest Pocket Vegetable Book (Chas. G. Moore), has 
 done more to popularize the cooking and serving of vege- 
 tables in hotels and restaurants than any other book ever 
 published. It was written with this idea. The author took 
 particular pains to make this little volume a classic and 
 his masterpiece, and he succeeded remarkably well. Into 
 120 pages he has condensed more information regarding 
 the history, cultivation, nutritive qualities, and approved 
 forms of cooking and serving vegetables than can be 
 found in any other book, no matter how large ; and it has 
 been demonstrated to be a book without mistakes. Recipes 
 for soups, sauces, garnishings and salads supplement the 
 general recipes. There are 78 ways of preparing potatoes, 
 19 of mushrooms, 19 of onions, 15 of cabbage, etc., 27 of 
 beans, 15 of rice, 25 of tomatoes, and others in number in 
 proportion to their importance. The vegetables are given 
 with their English names and the French and German 
 translations. The book is indexed, printed on bond paper. 
 Price $1.00 
 
 The Book of Sauces, by C. Hermann Senn, is the newest 
 of The Hotel Monthly Handbook series. Mr. Senn is the 
 author of the famous Twentieth Century Cookery Book, 
 The Menu Book, Practical Gastronomy, and ten other 
 culinary books that have become standard in Europe, and 
 that have extensive sale in America. His Book of Sauces 
 is the most complete work of the kind that has ever been 
 produced. It treats the subject thoroly from every angle 
 and covers all kinds of sauces for meat, poultry, fish, and 
 salad dishes; also sweet sauces. This book is adapted not 
 alone for the hotel and^catering trades, but also for family 
 use the world over. Epicures will find it invaluable for the 
 suggestions and practical instructions, together with the 
 culinary lore therein contained. Book is vest pocket size, 
 printed on bond paper $1.00 
 
 Ideas for Refreshment Rooms. This book is composed 
 mainly of expositions of catering systems, in particular, 
 tea room, lunch room, department store, cafeteria, school, 
 industrial plant, dining car, club, and outside. A valuable 
 feature of it is the illustrating of different accounting sys- 
 tems and report forms; also plans of lunch rooms, kitchens 
 and pantries, showing consistent lay-out. There are more 
 than a hundred beautiful half tone illustrations picturing 
 refreshment rooms of many kinds, their decoration, and 
 furnishment. Complete sets of menus of famous catering 
 establishments are presented; also a large number of 
 menus to fit the lunch room, cafeteria, industrial plant, 
 or school. Thruout the book there is a plea for the bal- 
 anced ration and right eating, the advocacy of plain foods 
 simply prepared and appetisingly served, the nutritive value 
 given careful consideration. There is a chapter on service; 
 a chapter on the brewing and serving of tea and coffee; 
 several pages devoted to pantry prepared foods ; illustra- 
 tions of kitchens, of restaurant checks, and of many inter- 
 esting things, as electric equipment ; questions of fuel 
 economy, illumination, and a hundred and one clever ideas 
 in the marketing of prepared foods in public eating houses. 
 The book is thoroly indexed and cross indexed to assure 
 quick finding. 385 pages, cloth bound. Price $2.00 
 
 The Hotel Butcher, Garde Manger and Carver. (Frank 
 Rivers.) The author has cultivated a new field in culinary 
 literature, and produced a book both novel and useful. His 
 experience as butcher, carver, chef and steward enabled him 
 to compile facts regarding meats and meat economics, from 
 the butcher shop to the dining-room table, that will be in- 
 6 
 
y c e h a 
 
 valuable to managers, stewards, chefs, and all persons em- 
 ployed in culinary work. His book digests the subjects of 
 buying, handling, sale, and service of meats, poultry and fish 
 for hotels, restaurants, clubs and instiutions. It is varied 
 with suggestions for the use of meats and trimmings for 
 particular dishes ; the composition of these dishes set forth 
 in concise form. The information is clarified by the use 
 of about 300 illustrations. The index is so comprehensive 
 that any item may be referred to on the instant. 125 pages. 
 Price $2.00 
 
 "The Advertising of Hotels" by Clarence Madden is the 
 first practical, comprehensive inquiry into hotel advertising 
 ever made available. It is the only book which treats the 
 problem of selling rooms and service in its entirety pro- 
 motion, publicity, "in-the-house", "word-of -mouth", copy, 
 appropriation, media selection, and agency contact. Mr. 
 Madden is acquainted with both sides of the advertising 
 picture. His book brings the two into sharp focus and shows 
 their proper relationship. . . . Anyone who is in any way 
 affected by hotel advertising should be sure to have on 
 hand a copy of "THE ADVERTISING OF HOTELS" for 
 study, reference, and guidance. 136 pages. Price $2.00 
 
 The Fish and Oyster Book, by Leon Kientz, for many 
 irs chef of Rector's (the noted sea foods restaurant in 
 icago), is a handy vest pocket volume, the leaf measur- 
 ing 3x6^ inches. In this book Mr. Kientz tells in concise 
 manner how to cook practically every kind of fish that is 
 brought to the American market; and not only explains 
 the method of cooking, but also the making of the sauces 
 and the manner of service. Every recipe is given with its 
 bill-of-fare name in English and its translation into the 
 French. The recipes include also such dishes as frogs' 
 legs, all kinds of shell fish, snails, terrapin, and the fish 
 forcemeats. Also there is an appendix with specimen fish 
 and oyster house luncheon and dinner menus, with and 
 without wines. The book is indexed, printed on bond 
 paper, bound in flexible cover $1.00 
 
 Economical Soups and Entrees (Vachon). This book was 
 written in response to a demand for a book that would 
 tell how to prepare savory dishes from inexpensive mate- 
 rials at small cost; and, in particular, how to use up left- 
 overs ; by which is meant good cooked foods not served 
 at a previous meal, and which have not in any way lost 
 their marketable value in the sense of deterioration of 
 quality, but which can be served in hotel or restaurant in 
 the same appetizing manner that leftovers are served in 
 well-to-do families. Mr. Vachon was selected to write this 
 book because of his reputation as an economical chef. In it 
 he has given recipes in particular for meat entrees of the 
 savory order, stews, pies and croquettes, hash, salads and 
 fried meats. The soups include creams, broths, bouillons, 
 chowders, purees, pepper-pots and the like. It is two books 
 in one, separately indexed, printed on bond paper, leaf 3x7 
 inches, bound in flexible cover. Price $1.00 
 
 Eggs in a Thousand Ways, by Adolphe Meyer, gives more 
 reliable information regarding eggs and their preparation 
 for the table than can be found in any other book. Is 
 indexed and cross indexed so that any method of cooking 
 eggs and any of the garnishings can be referred to on the 
 instant. The book starts with boiled eggs. Then (following 
 the departmental index in alphabetical order) are cold 
 eggs, 79 ways; egg drinks, 22 kinds; eggs in cases, 25 
 
ways; in cocottes, 24 ways; mollet, 79 ways; molded in 
 timbales, 29 ways; fried, 33 ; fried poached, 38; hard 
 eggs, 32; miscellaneous recipes, 27; omelets in 210 ways; 
 poached, 227 ways; scrambled, 123; shirred, 95; stuffed, 
 hard, 34; surprise omelets, 9; sweet eggs, 16; sweet ome- 
 lets 38. The recipes are in condensed form. The book is 
 vest pocket size, 150 pages, printed on bond paper. . .$1.00 
 
 The American Waiter (John B. Coins) is the only pub- 
 lished book that treats intelligently of the waiter's work 
 from bus boy to head waiter, for both hotel and restaurant 
 requirements. The author has recently completed Part 2 
 of this book, the new part devoted largely to European 
 plan service, and, combined with Part 1, which is devoted 
 largely to American plan service, has rounded out a man- 
 ual which is very valuable to those who would give table 
 service of the kind suited for the average hotel. Inter- 
 spersed in the book are chapters on the care of table 
 wares, salad making, table setting carving, dishing up, 
 banking of sea foods, building of banquet tables, and 
 many other useful items of information. The book is illus- 
 trated, vest pocket size, printed on bond paper $1.00 
 
 The Van Orman System of Hotel Control. A book illustrat- 
 ing and describing the many forms used in the hotels of the 
 Van Orman Chain of hotels. Price $1.00 
 
 Requirements of a Good Bed. This is a 36-page booklet 
 containing chapters on Bedsprings, Mattresses, Pillows, 
 Sheets, Blankets, Washing Blankets, and a Linen Control 
 System. It is a collection of exceedingly informative articles, 
 which first appeared in The Hotel Monthly. They are now 
 offered in this handy, compact form, neatly bound for ref- 
 erence purposes. Every hotel manager and every hotel 
 housekeeper will want to possess a copy of "Requirements 
 for a Good Bed". Not only is it a good reference work, but 
 it serves as an educational piece of literature for those 
 members of the staff who seek advancement and are serious 
 in the performance of their work. Price 50 cts. 
 
 Candy for Dessert (Richards). Price $1.00 
 
 Drinks (Jacques Straub). Mrs. Jacques Straub, widow of 
 the author of this book, has published a new edition, the 
 foreword in which is by "Oscar" of The Waldorf-Astoria, 
 commending "Drinks" for its missionary work as a tem- 
 perance book. It appeals, in particular, to caterers in 
 foreign countries where American "mixed drinks" are pop- 
 ular. Price $1.00 
 
 Clifford M. Lewis' "American Plan Check System". .$1.00 
 
 Prices subject to change, up or down, 
 according to market conditions 
 
 Hotel Monthly Bookshop 
 
 JOHN WILLY, Inc. 
 950 Merchandise Mart, Chicago, 111. 
 
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