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Old and New
CLAPHAM.
MCMIII.
m
•
OS GOD
CI.APA
from whom
Clapham
takes
its name.
St«ck
Arniex
Old and New
CLAPHAM.
by
ALEXANDER MILLAR
Printed at
The Hollyhurst Press
by Marguerite Millar.
MCMIir.
NOTE.
This booklet, originally planned on a more ambitious
scale, has been hurriedly compiled in order to be ready
for the "May Fair," in aid of the restoration of Clap-
ham Parish Church. Much of the material in prepara-
tion for it has been unwillingly omitted, on account of
the short time available. With the exception of certain
of the illustrations, for which very cordial thanks are
hereby tendered to Miss Houston, Mr. J. Priestman
Atkinson and Mr. W. Townend, its entire production,
the printing included, has been the work of amateurs.
In view of this, and of the difficulties arising out of
the pressure of other work in progress for the same
object, it is hoped that the little book will be lenient-
ly criticised.
The whole of the gross receipts from its sale vnll be
given to the above restoration fund.
A. M.
May 5th, 1903.
OLD AND NEW CLAPHAM.
The main purpose of this booklet is to preserve,
before it is too late, some pictorial records of the
picturesque old houses still existing in Clapham.
Though many artists of great ability have devoted
themselves to subjects of this character, they have
usually gone further afield in search of material,
and our neighbourhood has been almost entirely
overlooked. The present writer is well aware of
his own inadequate equipment for the task, and
trusts that his object in undertaking it may be
considered a sufficient excuse for his temerity.
Although in recent years a large number of
houses of the late i8th or early 19th century have
been destroyed, they were more interesting from
their associations than picturesque in themselves,
though many of them had a certain spacious dig-
nity of their own, and were preferable to the rows
of modern villas which in most cases have replaced
them. But among the older and more interesting
houses the hand of the destroyer has been less busy.
The greatest artistic loss has been the original Sun
Tavern, formerly the centre of a group of three
houses in the Old Town, probably of the 17th
century. Two still remain, though sadly spoiled
in effect by the incongruous modern erection
which has replaced the old tavern. From photo-
graphs, and from vivid recollection of the effect of
the entire group, an attempt is made in one of our
20'16'174
illustrations to show what has been lost.
The Cock Tavern, soon to be demolished, dates
from the 1 6th century, and is said to be the old-
est house in Clapham. Its commonplace modern
front gives no indication of this, but at the back
there is an old wooden structure which has some
elements of the picturesque, and has every appear-
ance of belonging to the above-mentioned period.
The houses in Archway Place, of the 17 th cen-
tury, lie in a charming old-world nook, quite un-
spoiled and hill of interesting bits of old out-build-
ings. With such a sympathetic environment it is
difficult to realize that this "haunt of ancient
peace" lies within the four mile radius.
The interesting structure known as "Captain
Cook's Quarter-deck" lies close by. The connec-
tion of the great sailor with the neighbourhood and
with this house, together with the singular appro-
priateness of the name, afford sufficient warrant for
the belief that this old gallery has been trodden by
him, perhaps while he laid his plans for further
perilous voyages.
Most of the interesting old houses still existing
date from the early i8th century. Several of them,
on the North Side and in the Old Town, are con-
fidently attributed to Sir Christopher Wren. This
tradition is corroborated by the existence of a door-
way in Chichester, also said to be by Wren, and
identical in design with those of several houses
near the church. One of these is shown in the pic-
ture of "An Old Doorway."
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PEPYS AT THE PLOUGH.
f _An Old DooruJojf
'' In Me f/«.e of \
1 :3S^i I TheGeor^
11*1 H I ii. j p . '"■■w- - — i ^ - ^gy ' mi H t ^
Few of the modern buildings are worthy to stand
beside the older work. The new chancel of the
Parish Church is on the whole satisfactory in de-
tail, but the general effect is perhaps a little tame
and wanting in relief. The new fire station is some-
thing for which to be thankful, and our gratitude
is due to the architect who planned it so as to spare
the old cedar.
The meagreness of this hasty survey of the build-
ings which were to have been our exclusive theme
is amply atoned for by the inclusion of the drav/-
ings contributed by artist friends. Miss Houston's
"Osgod Clapa" is an admirable presentment of the
Danish chief, idealized no doubt, and informed
with the artist's temperament, but all the more
perfect as a work of art.
Those who are familiar with Mr. Atkinson's
work in the pages of "Punch" and elsewhere will
agree that he has never done anything better than
"The May Fair," and "Pepys at the Plough." He
has given us of his best and we are appreciative and
grateful.
An interesting bit of local history recently un-
earthed by Mr. Rudolf, - the supply of horses for
Cromwell's artillery by the people of Clapham,-
together with the familiar sight of a battery of ar-
tillery passing along the Common, suggested the
two pictures so admirably realized by Mr. W.
Townend, who is pretty certain one day to be
heard of as a war artist.
BALLADE OF AN OLD HOUSE.
The elms are tinged with yellow gold,
Brightening the shortened autumn days;
And, ghostly in the moonlight cold,
Or dimly seen through morning haze.
Or lit with sunset's ruddy blaze.
These ancient walls, defaced with grime,
Recall the folk, and dress, and ways
Of Clapham in the olden time.
Hence Georgian belles in coaches rolled
Amid the hamlet's wondering gaze;
While Chloe's wiles made Strephon bold.
And swords were drawn in foolish frays;
And poets, too, were wont to praise
Their powdered charms in stilted rhyme.
Alas! 'twas but a fleeting phase
Of Clapham in the olden time.
They lived and loved; the churchyard mould
Its heavy burden on them lays;
Their joys forgotten, griefs untold.
Though round their memory fancy plays;
But still their dwelling with us stays,
Through summer heat and winter rime;
Still gate and doorway memories raise
Of Clapham in the olden time.
Builder, avaunt! nor dare to raze
The mouldering bricks, the crumbling lime;
Last relics, while all else decays.
Of Clapham in the olden time.
CLAPHAM REVISITED BY SAMUEL PEPYS.
Up while the Chimes went four, and to Clapham
before Daybreak, having a Mind to fee the Houfe
where I formerly dwelt with my Friend W. Hewer.
And coming to the Common, the Morning being
hazy, all did feem as before, but the Ways mend-
ed, fome Trees gone, and others grown up fince
my Time. But with the Coming of the Day to fee
what a Change! The Houfe clean gone, and a fair
broad Street whereabout it ftood.
Here I did meet an obliging Perfon with whom
I fell into Difcourfe. His Habit was fober, but the
Fafbion of it ftrange to my eyes, as was mine to
his by his Manner of viewing me. But when he
had learned my Name he did bid me welcome, and
did tell me that my Diary hath been printed and
is much fpoken of, at which God knows, I was not
a little proud. But I hope the Printer hath been
difcreet.
I was at a great lofs how to carry myfelf, but he
did give me his Advice how to order Things.
We to his Houfe, and after a noble Breakfaft to
the Plough Irniy with brave Difcourfe by the Way.
Anon comes by with most prodigious Noise and
Speed, a Carriage without Horfes, a thing fo ex-
traordinary as not to be conceived almost: indeed
it was paft Imagination, both the Strangenefs and
the Suddennefs of it. Being in all Things curious
I did enquire into the Means whereby it do move,
whereupon he moft ingenioufly did difcourse and
try to explain all Matters, but I underftood none of
them, at which I was a little ftumbled, but I do pro-
pofe to get the whole Relation if I live.
But at The Plough^ Lord ! what an Infinity of
People ! I up and down to view the brave Sight,
and prefently found myfelf in a great Press of
Coaches. Of a fudden comes One riding, I know
not how, on a Frame with two Wheels. He came
near to upfet me, and did moft horribly cry out,
at which I was devilifh mad. He talked huge high,
and fome (landing by did jeer at me, whereat I was
horrid angry againfl: them, and it was like to come
to a great Heat between us. But being unwilling
to enter into a Conteft, I brought it to an Ifsue with
good Words, which was better than if it had been
otherwife.
By this Time I was mighty hot, and my Mind
mightily out of order. I was refolved to be gone,
and did fpy a fort of Coach, the FaiLion of which
feemed lefs ftrange to my eyes, and which I hear
is called a Bus. I was full glad to fee it, and getting
infide I found it was nowife different from the
Coaches of my Time, which did mightily please
me, to fee that in fome Things there is no Change.
And fo away from Clap ham ^ with great Content
for what I have this Day feen.
A WINTER SUNSET ON THE COMMON.
The winter afternoon is clear and cold,
The wind has fallen. Though the day has been
Stormy and wild, the west is now serene.
And all the sunset banners are unrolled.
The trees their winter tracery uphold
Against the western glow, in contrast keen;
Black interlacing branches; and between.
The clear sky-spaces shine with liquid gold
Far stretched along the low horizon lies
The russet smoke-band, luridly, and when
The glowing pageant slowly fading dies,
The dominant London grey creeps on again
Revealing lights to greet home-seeking eyes
And bringing quiet night to weary men.
THE ILLUSTRATIONS.
Osgod Clapa
Pepys in Clapham
An old Doorway
Pepys at "The Plough"
Cromwellian Artillery
Modern Artillery
The Cock Tavern
Captain Cook's Quarter-deck
Archway Place
The Sun Tavern
Houses in the Old Town
The Parish Church
The Fire Station
Mary G. Houston.
J. Priestman Atkinson.
do. do.
do. do.
W. Townend.
do.
Alex. Millar.
do.
do.
do.
do.
do.
Ewart G. Millar.
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