ORGAN! XAT^FDF THE i^JlSjSS SOCIETY & JOIWO; JERUSALEM THE EARLY HISTORY OF SOUTH AUSTRALIA: A Romantic Experiment in Colonization. BY THE REV. JOHN BLACKET. All Rights Reserved. ADELAIDE : PRINTED BY VARDON & SONS LTD., GRRSHAM STREET. 1907. DEDICATED to the MEMORY Of the SOUTH AUSTRALIAN SOLDIERS who Died in connection with the TRANSVAAL WAR. LIEUTENANT POWELL, of Mount Gair.bier, THE FIRST TO FALL. They left their land, and gave their lives For Empire and for Queen, And kindred, 'neath the Southern skies, Will keep their memories green. "THE PIONEERS." Composed by H. S. Scarfe, and sung by the colonists in 1857, when South Australia reached her majority. Fill, fill each sparkling glass, boys, And drain your bumpers dry. And listen while I sing, boys. Of days and deeds gone by, And while we call to mind the past its hopes, its doubts, its fears, Let's ne'er forget the honour due to brave old pioneers. They left their much-loved England. And braved the ocean's foam, Here, for themselves and children. To found a freeman's home. Now near the same old tree we meet, o'er which, with joyous cheers, The British flag was first unfurled by loyal pioneers. That little band of heroes, How manfully they plied The axe, the plough, the harrow, And labor'd side by side. For us they cleared, they ploughed, they soAved : a garden now appears Where first they found a wilderness those hardy pioneers. Like wave on wave advancing Crowds followed them ere long : The once small band now musters Some hundred thousand strong : Who've carried on through weal and woe, for one-and-twenty years The work so nobly then begun by gallant pioneers. Beneath this gay parilion We sip our wine at ease : Theirs was the rude tarpaulin, Or shelter of the trees. Think, while we gratefully enjoy each gift our heart that cheers. We owe all. under Providence, to brave old pioneers. TABLE OF CONTENTS. PAGE Introduction ... ... ... ... ... 9 Chapter I. Firgt Glimpses of the Great Lone Land 13 II. Drawing the Plans 28 III. Discussions in Parliament and Press... 37 IV. Preparing to Build 50 V. Laying the Foundations ... ... 57 VI. The Builders' Social Life and Material Surroundings ... ... ... 72 VII. Tho First Overland Trip ... 93 VIII. Political and Financial Reverses ... 10G IX. Social Reverses a.nd Successes ... 126 X. Consolidation and Extension ... ... 147 XI. -Struggles for Political Freedom ... 169 XII. Struggles for Religious Freedom ... 181 XIII. Political and Religious Emancipation... 194 XIV. Some Useful Legislation 213 XV.- -Responsible Government ... ... 230 XVI.- Exploration 240 XVII. Sketches of the Pioneer Explorers ... 276 XVIII. The Rise of Religious Organisations... 297 XIX. Some Pioneer Builders 313 XX. Other Pioneer Builders ... 355 XXI. Past and Present 374 Index 389 S.A.. NATIVE WITH SHIELD AND SPEAR. INTRODUCTION. Some time ago the writer published a book entitled "A South Australian Romance." It was well received by the English and Colonial press. A few chapters in that book were devoted to the founding of South Aus- tralia, but the greater part dealt with matters of an ecclesiastical character. A desire was expressed, by a leading Colonial paper, that a second book should be written dealing with the history of South Australia on general lines. Anxious to be of some service to his native land, and to develop in young Australians a spirit of patriotism, that desire the author has tried to fulfil. To the men who founded the Public Library in South Australia, to early colonists who preserved public records, as well as to the London " Times," and to British Parliamentary papers he is specially indebted. Had it not been for the preservation of the South Australian ' ' Register, ' ' the London ' ' Times, ' ' and other papers treasured up in our national archives, the following pages could not have been written. In small and in large tomes (both in this and in the Old Country) were the buried letters, diaries, and speeches written and spoken by some of our pioneer nation- builders. Bringing these to the surface, and adding bone to bone, and limb to limb, was indeed a labour 10 INTRODUCTION. but in no sense of the word was it irksome, inasmuch as it was " a labour of love." To roll back, as it were, the course of time ; to live in the almost forgotten past ; to see what the pilgrim fathers were thinking, saying, and doing long before the author appeared upon the scene ; to make them once more live, move, and speak, was felt to be not only a duty, but a joy. The writer's earnest desire is that all who read these pages (especially the descendants of the pioneers) may share in that joy. This is the reason why he has tried to picture their surroundings ; to sit down at their banquets ; to listen to their debates ; to go with them on their explorations ; and to see them adding brick to brick, and stone to stone, till a worthy and substantial Commonwealth was built up. He believes that this is the first attempt to give the early history of our province on popular lines. Whilst written in a popular way, special care has been taken to make the record correct. The opening poem was found among some papers in the Public Library. It was written by one of the early colonists, and was sung on the shores of Holdfast Bay in 1857 to commemorate the landing of the pilgrim fathers in 1836. The early history of our States is a most romantic one a history of which we may well be proud. It reveals the grit, the energy, the perseverance, and deter- mination which are such potent factors in the mental and moral make-up of the British race. In the course of this book we shall see men and women who could *' replenish the earth and subdue it ;" who could " break in pieces the gates of brass and cut in sunder the bars of iron." Defeat they never knew. Their motto was "Conquer or die." No matter how dark the night they could always see a ray of light ; no matter how rough the road they never fainted by the way. Often surrounded by adverse circumstances, as we shall see in the course of our history, they made " the wilderness INTRODUCTION. 1 1 and solitary place glad," and " the desert blossom as the rose." Our fathers labored, and we have entered into their labors. It is because they laid broad, deep, and well the foundation of our State that we enjoy so many national advantages to-day. If it were not for the knowledge of this fact it would indeed be matter for surprise that South Australia had made such marvellous progress in so short a time. As a community we have only just attained our three-score j^cars and ten ; yet all the material and spiritual advantages of civilization are ours. We are a happy, contented, and prosperous people. Providence has given to us a " goodly heritage." Our fathers recognised the fact. They had faith in God, faith in themselves, and in the material resources placed at their disposal, and we to-day reap the benefit of their faith and labors. A popular review of their experiences from the inception of the colonization movement till South Aus- tralia reached her majority may act as an inspiration to coming generations. Much that this book contains has never been given to the public in popular and permanent form. Both in London as well as in the land of his birth the writer has collected a mass of material, some of which he feels ought to be handed down to posterity. As time goes on the sketches of the pioneer builders, to which some chapters will be specially devoted, ought to become increasingly valuable. There is one respect in which we as a community have failed to do our duty : we have taught our children the history of the Old Land, from which our fathers came, but have strangely passed by our own. Perhaps the Education Department may find this book to be of service. 12 INTRODUCTION. The author desires to thank Thomas Gill, Esq., the Under-Treasurer of the State, for service rendered in reading the following pages. JOHN BLAOKET. Adelaide, 1907. CHAPTER 1 FIRST GLIMPSES OF THE GREAT LONE LAND. We mean first glimpses of that part of the Aus- tralian Continent with which this history deals. It is said that the first known discovery of any part of South Australia was made in 1627. The discoverer was a Dutch navigator who sailed along the south coast. The new land was called Nuyts' Land. LIEUT. JAMES GRANT. Of Lieut. Grant's association with our Province we can speak with greater confidence. On March 17th, 1800, the Lady Nelson, a vessel of sixty tons burden, left Old England for New Holland. She was to proceed on a voyage of discovery as far as the infant settlement of New South Wales, so named by Captain Cook in 1770. Amongst other things that Lieut. Grant had to do was to search for the strait that separated Van Dieman's Land (now called Tasmania) from Australia. The Lady Nelson had fifteen men on board, and was provisioned for nine months. A voyage to New Holland (or Australia as it is now called) in 1800 was a most momentous undertaking. The captain had great difficulty in keeping his men together, the general conviction being that the vessel was not adapted for so long, difficult, and dangerous a voyage. The vessel was sarcastically named by the sailors " His Majesty's Tinder Box." After being ninety-nine days at sea the Lady Nelson dropped anchor in Table Bay, Cape of Good Hope. Here Lieut. Grant waited for a long time for a 14 FIRST GLIMPSES OF THE GREAT LONE LAND. convenient season in which to set out for Terra Aus- tralis. On October the 7th, in the presence of several spectators, who scarcely thought that the little vessel would reach her destination, Lieut. Grant weighed anchor, and proceeded on his voyage. On December the 2nd, 1800, he thought that land must be near. It was a mere trifle that suggested the thought to his mind, the vessel being visited by one of the large dragon flies, usually and mistakenly called (at least in Australia) horse stingers. At eight o'clock on the next morning land was sighted, and to Lieut. Grant belongs the distinguished honor of being the first white man to obtain a glimpse of the south-eastern coast of Terra Australis. He saw two capes, and away in the distance two mountains. One of the latter he named Mount Schank in memory of his old friend Captain John Schank, of the Royal Navy ; the other mountain he called Gambier's Mountain, after Admiral Lord Gam- bier. One cape he called Northumberland, after the Duke of Northumberland, and the other Cape Banks, we believe in honor of Sir Joseph Banks, the naturalist who accompanied Captain Cook on his first voyage to New Holland. Grant was unconscious of the value of his discovery. Mount Gambier was destined to be one of the most striking features in a new and prosperous English settle- ment. Here, in course of time, one of the finest towns in a new community would be built, and a wilderness over which kangaroo and blackfellow roamed would be converted into a Garden of Eden. After making several discoveries further round the coast the Lady Nelson, on December 16th, 1800, reached her destination, Port Jackson, New South Wales. In his journal of the voyage, Lieut. Grant says : " At half- past seven in the evening we let go our anchors in eight fathoms of water, after a voyage of seventy-one days from the Cape of Good Hope, and with the satisfaction FIRST GLIMPSES OF THE GREAT LONE LAND. 15 of being the first vessel that ever pursued the same tract across that vast ocean. I felt thankful to God for the great success we had met with, and the pro- tection He had shown to us throughout the whole voyage." It may be interesting to the reader to know that on December the 3rd, 1900 (a century after Grant first sighted the land) the foundation stone of a commemo- rative tower was laid upon Mount Gambier by the Right Hon. Sir Samuel Way, Bart., Chief Justice of South Australia. CAPTAIN MATTHEW FLINDERS. One of the most illustrious names in the history of our Empire a name that makes us feel proud of the grand old stock from which we have sprung. The descendants of the South Australian pioneers ought to remember January 25, 1801. It marks a day in which all English people should be interested. On that day the young seaman, Matthew Flinders, a born adventurer, took command of H.M.S. Investigator. The vessel was rightly named. She was about to pro- ceed on a voyage the record of which would affect the world for all time. The instructions which the captain received from the Admiralty were : ' ' To pro- ceed to the coast of New Holland (Terra Australis) for the purpose of making a complete examination and survey of the said coast." With about eighty-eight picked men on board the vessel set sail from Spit head on July 18, 1801. On December 8th. of the same year, she reached King George's Sound, Western Australia. Here some time was spent in taking soundings and examining the nature of the country. From King George's Sound the Investigator sailed eastward toward what was termed the ' ' South Coast of Australia," a region of which the world knew nothing. 16 FIRST GLIMPSES OF THE GREAT LONE LAND. Passing by what is known as the " Great Australian Bight," Flinders anchored in a bay now well-known to South Australians. This he named Fowler's Bay, after his first lieutenant. Here they discovered traces of the natives, but did not come into contact with them. The Investigator was the first vessel to reach these shores. How long the blacks had lived upon them, or where they came from, it is impossible to tell. Of ships and of white men they had no conception. We can understand, as the Investigator tacked about these lonely and silent coasts, how awe-stricken the natives must have been. Was the vessel some vast sea monster ? Was it some supernatural visitant ? Did it mean their destruction ? Was some great cal- amity about to overtake their land ? How excitedly these questions would be discussed in the "bush" and in their ' ' wurlies. ' ' When (cautiously peeping through the brushwood) they saw a boat lowered, and white men pulling for their shores, their wonder and terror must have been intense. The first time the South Australian blacks saw bullocks they thought that they were devils. We do not think that the gallant captain was enamored of Fowler's Bay. What the British sailor- needed, specially one hundred years ago, was fresh food at the ports at which he called. For long periods he had to live on salt beef, and was without fruit or vegetables, the result being scurvy. At Fowler's Bay, at which no vessel had called since the foundations of the world were laid, Flinders hoped to replenish his larder, but was disappointed. It appeared to be a most inhospitable place. No fresh water and no food in any quantity could be obtained. All that Flinders and his party were able to shoot were about half a dozen birds. They put out their lines, but found that the finny tribe was as shy or as scarce as the fea- thered one. In his journal Flinders wrote " that a few birds and fish constituted everything like refresh- ment obtained here, and the botanists found the scan- FIRST GLIMPSES OF THE GREAT LONE LAND. 17 tiness of plants equal to that of the other productions, so that there was no inducement to remain longer." What were half a dozen birds and a few small fish among nearly one hundred hearty British sailors ? A little further on they fared better. This was &t an island called by Xuyts St. Francis. Here they obtained sufficient birds to give each man in the ship four ; a small kangaroo was also secured. But no fresh water could be found, not sufficient, as Flin- ders put it, "to rinse the mouth." The gallant navigator learned by experience, as many have done since his day, that the great need of this part of Aus- tralia is water. As he groped his way along the un- known coast, mile after mile, and day after day, he was hoping to find some great river pouring its con- tents into the ocean. In this respect he was disappointed. On February 5th, 1802, Flinders discovered an- other bay now well known to South Australians Streaky Bay so called by him because the water was discolored in streaks. Sailing on he came to what he named Smoky Bay. Perhaps the natives had gathered there to broil their fish, and to roast their kangaroo. Flinders saw a number of smokes rising from the shore, so he gave the bay the peculiar name that we suppose it will bear as long as w r hite men Jive upon the planet. Anxious Bay was discovered and so named from the anxious night that the navigator spent there. What is known as Flinders Island came into view. It was so named, not after Captain Flinders, but in honor of his brother, the second lieutenant of the Investi- gator. To Flinders and his party the voyage must have been a stirring one. They were exploring a new and strange world ; they were looking over a land on which the eye of white man had never rested. Here, in spots which the natives had not reached, neither bird nor animal had been molested since the land had been 18 FIRST GLIMPSES OF THE GREAT LONE LAND. lifted above the ocean. At Flinders Island the cap- tain found families of seals, consisting in each instance of a male, four or five females, and a few young cubs. To these he could approach quite closely without in any way disturbing them. After discovering and naming Investigator's Group, after his ship, Flinders sailed past a large indentation in the coast, to which he gave the gruesome name of Coffins Bay. It was not the dead that suggested to hi a mind such a gloomy title, but the living. It was so named after Sir Isaac Coffin, of the Admiralty, who had taken a special interest in fitting out the Investigator. This, as we shall see in a coming chapter, those who drew the plans for the settlement of South Australia thought would be a great maritime depot. Thistle Island was discovered, and so called after the master of the Investigator, John Thistle. Flinders describes it as being about twelve miles long, and from one to two or three miles in breadth. Here anchor was cast, and the island explored. All that the captain found upon it was snakes, eagles, seals, and kangaroos. The water in the hold was getting low. Under Flinders' instructions John Thistle (after whom the island had just been named), in company with the midshipman (William Taylor) and six sea- men, took the cutter and proceeded to the mainland in search of water. Time passed on. The shades of night were gathering. From the deck of the Inves- tigator they could see the cutter in the distance return- ing. Darkness set in. but the cutter and its living freight came not. What could have happened ? Flin- ders became anxious. The first lieutenant (Fowler) took the boat and a lantern, and rowed away in search of the missing men. All on board were in a state of suspense. After two hours Fowler returned with the sad intelligence that he could not find any traces of the cutter, nor of the men who had sailed in her. Lights were shown, and muskets fired, but there was FIRST GLIMPSES OF THE GREAT LONE LAND. 19 no response. At daybreak an examination was made. The cutter was discovered, bottom up, completely stove in by being dashed upon the rocks. For several days the shore was searched, but without avail. Not one of the eight gallant men who had sailed away in the cutter with such high hopes would ever see the Investigator, the commander, or native land again. Xo traces of the bodies could be found. Probably they had been eaten by the immense sharks with which this part of the sea is infested. Strange that at Thistle Island, to which John Thistle's name had just been attached, he should meet with death. The monument to his memory will endure when mausoleums created by the hand of man will have crumbled into dust. Flinders says : ' ' I caused an inscription to be engraven on a sheet of copper, and set up on a stout post at the head of the cove, which I named Memory Cove." Here we must pause for a moment. Flinders does not say how the inscription read. The destruc- tive forces of nature, incessantly at work, must have detached the sheet of copper from the post. Three fragments of it were found in 1866 (sixty-four years later), two of them on or near the beach of Port Lincoln Bay, and, strange to say, the third in the cupboard of a house at Port Lincoln. These precious relics are now in the Public Library, Adelaide, South Australia, and the writer would advise visitors to Adelaide to call and see them. Only a few of the words that Flin- ders caused to be engraved are on these relics. From the words that can be deciphered it is supposed that the inscription must have read something like this: "MEMORY COVE." ' ' H .M.S. Investigator, Matthew Flinders. "Com. ; anchored here Feb. 22, 1802. Mr. ' ' John Thistle. Master ; William Taylor, ' ' Mid. ; and six able seamen were un- " fortunately lost near this place from 20 FIRST GLIMPSES OF THE GREAT LONE LAND. ' ' being upset in a sudden squall. The boat ' ' was found, but the bodies were not dis- " covered." This tragic circumstance threw a gloom over the Investigator ; Flinders, who seems to have been much attached to his men, felt it keenly. To further com- memorate the sad event he named a cape in the vici- nity Cape Catastrophe. Both master and midshipman already had each an island named after them, so Flinders called the six islands nearest the cape by the names of the lost seamen. Having named a cluster of islands Sir Joseph Banks Group, as a compliment to the President of the Royal Society, Flinders turned his attention to a large port capable of sheltering a fleet of ships. This he called Port Lincoln, after his native county. This was on February 26th, 1802. With Flinders, on board the Investigator, was John Franklin, serving as a midshipman. Several years after he became Governor of Van Dieman's Land (Tasmania), and is known to posterity as Sir John Franklin, the great Arctic explorer. When Governor of Van Dieman's Land he caused an obelisk to be erected at Port Lincoln, with an inscription in marble to the memory of his friend and illustrious commander, " Matthew Flinders, R.N., the discoverer of the country called South Australia." The original inscription (having fallen into disrepair) is now to be seen in the Public Library, Adelaide, the South Aus- tralian Government having caused another tablet to be erected. At Port Lincoln Flinders was able to obtain some fresh water by digging. Here some time was spent in exploring the country and in taking soundings. From Port Lincoln the captain made a final search along the coast and among the islands for the bodies of his men who had been wrecked in the cutter. It was ineffectual. In this part he saw many traces of FIRST GLIMPSES OF THE GREAT LONE LAND. 21 the natives, their bark huts, and paths long and deeply trodden, but the natives themselves kept in the dis- tance. Flinders found that he was now in a gulf, which he named Spencer's Gulf, as a compliment to the President of the Admiralty Beard. From the gulf he saw and named Mount Brown (we presume after the able botanist on board of that name), and Mount Arden. The whole range (at the foot of which some of these chapters were written) was named, after the illustrious navigator, Flinders Range. Flinders now began to give his attention to the other side of the gulf. Sailing south he named Point Eiley and Point Pearce, each in honor of a gentleman connected with the Admiralty. He saw and named Corney Point ; also Hardwicke Bay, as a compliment to an English Earl of that title. He next discovered and named Cape Spencer, after Earl Spencer, and then sailed into Nepean Bay, Kangaroo Island : the bay was so called by Flinders after an English noble- man of that name. This was on March 21st, 1802. It was at this bay, thirty-four years later, that a small band of pioneers would land to lay the foundations of the Province of South Australia. But more of this in the pages to come. Flinders tells how, landing on the island next morning, a number of kangaroos were quietly feeding. They had never been disturbed by the advent of man, and had no fear of Flinders and his party. Many of them allowed themselves to be knocked on the head with clubs. The captain concluded that the country on which they had landed was an island ; and the tameness of the kangaroos, the presence of the seals upon the shore,, and the absence of all traces of man convinced him that the island was uninhabited. In his journal, on March 22nd, 1802, he wrote : " The whole ship's com- pany was employed this afternoon in skinning and cleaning the kangaroos, and a delightful regale they afforded after four months privation from almost any 22 FIKST GLIMPSES OF THE GREAT LONE LAND. fresh provision. Half a hundred weight of heads, fore quarters, and tails were stewed down into soup for dinner on this and succeeding days, and as much steaks given to officers and men as they could consume by day and by night. In gratitude for so seasonable a supply I named this southern land Kangaroo Island. Between Kangaroo Island and the mainland Flin- ders found a strait to which he gave the name of In-r vestigators Strait, after his vessel. He also found himself in another gulf which lie named St. Vincent's Gulf, after another member of the Admiralty. The peninsula which lay between Spencer's and St. Vin- cent's Gulfs he called Yorke's Peninsula, after the Right Hon. Charles Philip Yorke. He also named Cape Jervis, and Troubridge Shoal. From Kangaroo Island he saw a high mountain in the distance, calling it Mount Lofty. How astonished the intrepid commander would be if he could revisit the scene of his explorations. In the great lone land, whose coasts for the first time he surveyed, he would find beautiful flower gardens, large orchards and vineyards, vast wheatfields, mac- adamised roads, railway lines, picturesque villages, and well-built towns. At Port Lincoln, Kangaroo Island, and at Mount Lofty he would find monuments raised to his memory. Having finished his examination of the Gulf, Flinders went back to Kangaroo Island for a fresh supply of kangaroo meat, and shortly after again set sail from the island, passing through and naming Backstairs Passage. In two days time he had a remarkable experience. The man on the lookout reported ' 'A white rock ahead." No doubt the presence of a ship in those strange waters was considered to be impossible, but such the supposed ' ' white rock ' ' proved to be. She was flying the French flag. Flinders had the deck cleared, and prepared for action. Fortunately there was no need FIRST GLIMPSES OF THE GREAT LONE LAND. 23 for bloodshed. The vessel proved to be the Le Geo- graphe, commanded by Nicholas Baudin. bent upon the same errand as the Investigator. Flinders only had a few days advantage of his French rival. Speak- ing to Flinders some time after at Sydney, the first lieutenant of the French vessel said : ' 'Captain, if we had not been kept so long picking up shells and catching butterflies at Van Dieman's Land, you would not have discovered the South Coast before us." The meeting of the two vessels and the two com- manders took place near a large bay which Flinders termed Encounter Bay to commemorate the event. Here, in connection with the Flinders Centenary, an interesting ceremony took place. This was on April 8th, 1902. A gun metal plate was let into a granite rock bearing the following inscription : " .' In commemoration of the meeting near this " Bluff, between H.M.S. Investigator " Matthew Flinders who explored the ' ; coast of South Australia, and M.F. Le " Geographe Nicholas Baudin. April 8, 1802. " On board the Investigator was John ' ' Franklin, the Arctic discoverer. These ' ; English and French explorers held Friendly ' ' Conference. Hence Flinders named the ' " place of meeting Encounter Bay. " Unveiled by His Excellency Lord Tennyson April 8, 1902. So far as South Australia was concerned the gallant captain's work when at Encounter Bay was done. We leave him to pursue his voyage to Port Jackson, New South Wales, while we relate perhaps still more romantic events. CAPTAIN CHARLES STURT. Captain Flinders had only seen the southern coast of Terra Australis. No white man had seen its mys- 24 FIRST GLIMPSE3 OF THE GBEAT LONE LAND. terious interior. This honor fell to Captain Sturt. In 1829 the Government of New South Wales (the pioneer settlement on the continent of Australia) commissioned him to trace the course of the river Murrumbidgee. A whale boat was secured, and the necessary provision made. At the head of a party Captain Sturt set sail. The trip must have been a most fascinating one. They were gliding down a stream on which no white man's boat had hitherto been launched ; they were passing through country that no white man had previously seen. The journey had its difficulties and dangers. Here and there in the stream were " snags " submerged logs against which the boat might strike ; there were rapids to be passed over, with the possibilities of being upset. These perils added romance to the trip. After sailing some time down the Murrumbidgee .suddenly the boat shot into a noble stream, flowing from east to west. This proved to be what is known as the Murray River. It was so named by Captain Sturt in honor of Sir George Murray, Secretary of State for the Colonies. This must indeed have been a sur- prise, and the excitement of the party must have been intense. On the adventurers glided, not knowing whither they went, wondering, no doubt, what other revelations were in store. Borne on the bosom of the noble river, they sailed past giant gums. Away in the distance the kangaroo bounded. Occasionally they had a glimpse of the natives of the soil. At times these were very hostile : covered with war paint, poising their spears, and sounding their battle cry, they rushed down to the water's edge. Sometimes Captain Sturt and his party were in specially dangerous circumstances r and thought that some of the natives would have to be shot in self defence ; fortunately they were not com- pelled to resort to violence, and all were providentially preserved. After sailing about two months down the Murray they came to a vast fresh-water lake. This was the reservoir into which the river flowed. It was FIRST GLIMPSES OF THE GREAT LONE LAND. 2-5 covered with game. As the boat shot through the water flocks of swan rose before it. Captain Sturt says that the patter-patter of their rising was like the clapping of hands of a vast multitude. This body of water he called Lake Alexandrina, in honor of the princess who (later on) for so many years gloriously ruled over us as Queen Victoria. The explorers were now in one of the most romantic parts of South Australia. This was the happy hunting-ground of the blackfellow. On the banks of the Murray, and round the shores of the lake, he built his wurlies, held his corrobories. chanted to- his piccaninnies, taught them how to swim, to throw the spear, and to track emus, kangaroos, and enemies. Here he caught his fish, and noosed and netted wild fowl. Xo wonder that he was both awed and angiy when he saw his territory invaded by mysterious whites. The Rev. George Taplin. who spent many years among the blacks in the early days, says: "I knew several men who remembered the arrival of Cap- tain Sturt, and they told me of the terror which was felt as they beheld his boat crossing Lake Alexandrina." Passing over the lake, Captain Sturt discovered the junction of the Murray with the sea. When about to return he said : "I could not but think that I was leaving behind me the fullest reward of our toil in a country that would ultimately render our discoveries valuable. Hurriedly, I would repeat, as my view was, my eye never fell on a country of more promising aspect, or more favorable position." CAPTAIN BARKER. The discoverer of the fertile plains of Adelaide was Captain Barker, of the British Army. After Captain Sturt returned to New South Wales he suggested to the Government of that Colony that a further examination should be made of the South-eastern coast of South Australia. This was entrusted to Captain Collett Barker. In 1831 he began his survey of the coast from Cape 26 FIRST GLIMPSES OF THE GREAT LONE LAND. Jervis and sailed up towards what is now known as Glenelg. A party landed and travelled in the direction of Mount Lofty. The country through which they passed was delightful, and the expedition a most inspir- ing one. They discovered and named the river Sturt, so called in honor of the gallant explorer of that name. Captain Barker climbed Mount Lofty, and saw an arm of the sea to the north-west running inland. In course of time what rapid and radical changes oscur. In a few years that arm of the ocean, seen for the first time by Captain Barker, would lead to what is now known as Port Adelaide, and those beautiful plains on which his eye rested would be covered with flocks and herds, and English homesteads. The party proceeded to the mouth of the Murray. Being anxious to obtain some observations the other side of the stream, Captain Barker (with compass on his head) swam across, the distance being about three hundred yards at low water. In a few minutes he swam the stream, and was about five minutes ascend- ing a hillock, computed to be about sixty feet high. On reaching the top he looked around him for a minute, and then disappeared. This was the last glimpse the party had of him. The hours passed by but Captain Barker did not return. Some of the party thought that they heard a noise, as of some one shouting in pain, coming from the direction the captain had taken. Later on they saw a large fire in the same direction, heard natives "coo-eeing," and saw several moving to and fro. For five and twenty hours they waited, but the leader came not. The strange conduct of the natives who were to be seen in the distance, their frequent " coo-eeings," and fires, convinced the party that Captain Barker was either slain, or held in detention by the natives. They had no means of crossing the stream, the only man who could swim would not attempt the task alone without arms. The pary re- turned to the vessel for assistance. At this time there were some white sealers living FIRST GLIMPSES OF THE GREAT LONE LAND. 27 upon Kangaroo Island, of whom, in another chapter, we shall have to speak. With them were a few natives. The exploring party, bereft of their leader, sought the assistance of these men. They wished to know the fate of their commander. Two of the white sealers, accom- panied by some natives, went with the party to the mainland. The natives opened up communications with the blacks around the Murray mouth. They learned that Captain Barker had been speared to death, and his body thrown into the sea. The circumstances under which he met his death were sad indeed. Captain Barker was unconscious of the approach of the natives until he received his first wound, a spear passing through his left hip. He then ran into the surf up to his knees, making signs with his hands, and calling them to desist. A second and third spear was thrown, the latter passing through the body. Captain Barker then fell down, and the three natives brought him to shore, and drew their spears backward and forward through his body till he died. Mount Barker is named after him, and a monument has been there erected to commemorate his life, work, and death. It was the discoveries made on the coast by Captain Flinders, and in the interior by Captains Sturt and Barker, that lay at the basis of the schemes for South Australian colonisation. Captain Sturt wrote : ' 'A spot has at length been found upon the South Coast of New Holland to which the colonist might venture with every prospect of success, and in whose valleys the exile might hope to build for himself and for his family a peaceful and prosperous home. All those who have ever landed on the eastern shore of St. Vincent's Gulf agree as to the richness of its soil, and the abundance of its pastures. Indeed, if we cast our eyes upon the chart and examine the natural features of the country behind Cape Jervis, we shall no longer wonder at its differing in soil and fertility from the low and sandy tracts that generally prevail along the shores of Aus- tralia." CHAPTER II. DRAWING THE PLANS. As all roads lead to Rome, so the history of the British race everywhere leads to a national centre. For the colonization scheme of South Australia we must turn to England. We must go back to the time when the "Iron Duke" was taking an active part in politics,, and when the Old Land was stirred from its centre to its circumference by the cry for constitutional Reform. For many years before the colonization of South Australia was mooted, England was in a very disturbed state. The condition of the working classes was deplor- able. Trade was languishing ; some of the mills and manufactories had to cease work ; the supply of labor was far in excess of the demand. The modern humani- tarian spirit had scarcely opened its eyes. Both in. politics and commerce a spirit of selfishness prevailed. The iniquitous corn laws reveal the greedy, grasping, oppressive character of the times. These, by making bread dear, added to the general distress. So many poor were receiving parish pay that the burden became intolerable ; in fact, some of the parishes collapsed beneath the strain. With poverty there was an in- crease of crime. Hungry men must have bread. Rio- tous mobs assembled ; machinery and windows were broken ; buildings were fired ; and in 1820 there was a conspiracy for the assassination of the whole Ministiy. In this time of national distress some thoughtful, patriotic men turned their attention to emigration. At the antipodes were vast tracts of waste lands waiting for the Anglo-Saxon to come and occupy them. Prominent among these patriotic spirits were Robert Gouger, Colonel Torrens, George Fife Angas,. ROBERT GOUGER. DRAWING THE PLANS. 29 Edward Gibbon Wakefield, Wolryche Whitmore, Wil- liam Hutt, William A. Mackinnon, Jacob Montefiore, and George Grote (the famous historian).* Some of these were known as "the theorists of 1830," others were hard-headed business men. Four of them deserve special notice. They were the primary suns, so to speak, in colonization schemes, around which the lesser lights rotated. These were Robert Gouger, Colonel Torrens, George Fife Angas, and Edward Gibbon Wakefield. Robert Gouger was born in 1802. His early days were spent at Stamford, in Lincolnshire. In politics lie became a radical, and took a deep interest in the welfare of the poor. He was associated with Robert Owen, the Socialist. Robert Gouger was a man brimful of energy, and of indomitable perseverance. It was his radicalism, energy, and love for adventure that led him, in 1830, to connect himself with a revolutionary movement in Spain. On his return to his native country he turned his attention to colonization. He saw the masses in England in a state of chronic poverty, and was convinced that emigration was the panacea for social w-oes. It was this conviction that led him to form several colonization societies. He met with one dis- appointment after another, but heroically kept at his post. There is no need to further trace his career just now, as we shall frequently meet with him in the course of our history. Colonel Torrens was an officer in the British army, who became profoundly interested in social and political reforms. He published some works dealing with poli- tical economy, and is said to have been the first to attri- bute the production of wealth to land, labor, and capital. In 1831 he entered the British House of Commons. It *The names of these men are perpetuated in the nomen- clature of our State. We have Gouger-street, the River Torrens, named after Colonel Torrens, not after his famous son. Sir R. R. Torrens, as some suppose; Angus-street, Wake- field-street, Whitmore-square, Hutt-street, Mackinnon Parade, Montefiore Hill, Grote-street. 30 DRAWING THE PLANS. was during this year that Edward G. Wakefield called on Colonel Torrens to ask his co-operation in the estab- lishment of a colony in South Australia. After con- sidering the question for some time, the Colonel gave his consent. No man (except Robert Gouger) worked harder than he. Colonel Torrens hoped to be the first Governor of the colony, and claimed to be its founder. Writing to Lord John Russell, when the Select Com- mittees on South Australian affairs was sitting in 1841, Colonel Torrens said : "The colony of South Australia, devised by Mr. Wakefield, was planted by me. When all the other commissioners, nominated by Lord Mont- eagle (Mr. Spring Rice) abandoned the task, I continued to persevere, and, with the sanction of Lord Aberdeen, and of Lord Glenelg, organised a new commission for carrying the Act of Parliament into effect. The plant- ing of 15,000 settlers in South Australia was the result of my exertions, and these 15,000, whom I urged from their homes, have been overtaken by a disaster endanger- ing their welfare, perhaps their lives. Under the heavy responsibility pressing upon me. I felt it impossible to abstain from establishing the fact that the disaster would not have occurred if my measures had not been over-ruled." Colonel Torrens fought hard in the in- terests of the Reform Bill, and sat in the Reformed Parliament. He died May 27, 1864. With George Fife Angas' connection with our State all South Australians are familiar. He was one of the most energetic of its founders. In coming pages we shall again refer to him. Edward Gibbon Wakefield was born in London in 1796, and, after an eventful life in the Old Country, died in Canterbury, New Zealand, in 1862. Though he did not come very prominently before the public in the founding of South Australia, yet he was one of the chief instruments in securing this result. His was the unseen hand that pulled many of the colonization strings. For private reasons he had to keep in the background. Wakefield had been guilty of a foolish DRAWING THE PLANS. 31 escapade that marred his usefulness, and to some extent blighted his life. In 1873 Colonel Palmer (one of the original South Australian Commissioners) took steps to have a monument erected to the memory of Wake- field in South Australia, but the movement collapsed. The founding of South Australia was to be an experiment on the basis of the Wakefield principle. Wakefield's contention was that the land should be sold at a certain price per acre and the proceeds should be devoted to the emigration of laborers. In this way it was thought that the balance could be maintained between demand for labor and supply of labor ; that "the capitalist should never suffer from an urgent want of laborers, and that laborers should never want well-paid employment." In 1831 Colonel Torrens, with a deputation of intending colonists (Robert Gouger included) waited on Lord Goderich (Secretary of State for the Colonies) in relation to the colonization of South Australia. An outline of the plan of the proposed colony was laid before his lordship. The discussions which took place upon the Reform Bill, and a dissolution of Parliam nt put an end, for the time being, to negotiations. The movement collapsed. Some of the intending settlers emigrated to Canada, and some to the United States. Later on another attempt was made to float the colony. This was on the basis of a joint -stock land company. It was ineffectual. THE SOUTH AUSTRALIAN ASSOCIATION. At the beginning of 1834 the South Australian Association was formed. An old print that lies before me gives the "outline of the plan of a proposed colony to be founded on the South coast of Australia, with an account of the soil, climate, rivers, &c." It also gives the prospectus of the South Australian Associa- tion, the object of which was ' 'to found a colony under Royal Charter." The public were informed that "a 32 DRAWING THE PLANS. committee sat daily at the office of the Association, 8. Adelphi Chambers, for the purpose of giving information to persons disposed to settle in the colony." Among other reasons why this part of the world should be colonised by English people, the old print before me says : ' 'There is every reason to believe that the whole of extra-tropical Australia is free from endemic disease. The seaboard advantages of South Australia were very great. The magnificent harbor of Port Lincoln "Would.be the chief emporium for the trade of that region, and Coffin's Bay would eventually receive all the produce of the line of coast to the west. It was expected that the country would yield coal, woods of various kinds, and bark for tanning. Salt fish would find a ready market in Peru. Chili, and the Isle of France. Wheat and flour would find a market in the Isle of France, the Cape, Rio Janeiro, and proba- bly China. Tobacco, flax, hemp, and cotton were to be grown." In the light of seventy years' experience it is refreshing to read the glowing anticipations of those who were laboring to give birtli to our State. The * 'magnificent harbor of Port Lincoln," which "was to be the chief emporium of trade for that region," is only just -beginning to realise its possibilities; while Coffin's Bay, which "was to receive all the produce of the west, ' ' remains much .as it was seventy years ago. The "export of salt fish to Peru, Chili, and the Isle of France," will be one of the surprises of the future. We have done much in the way of exporting wheat, flour, and bark for tanning, but the "cultivation of tobacco, flax, hemp, and cotton" are parts of the original plan that generations to come must fulfil. We leave No. 8, Adelphi Chambers, and go to Exeter Hall. It is June 30, 1834. A great number of people are making their way to the historic building. Carriages are driving up and their occupants are step- ping out. In the manner and address of the people there is great animation. It is a meeting of the pro- DRAWING THE PLANS. 33 moters and friends of the proposed colony of South Australia called by the S.A. Association. About 2.5(0 persons, including many members of Parliament, are present. . Wolryche Whitmore, M.P., is in the chair. After stating the object for which the meeting is called, he deals with the question of colonization. ' 'He would direct attention to a defect in colonization schemes : the laborer went out without that capital whicli was necessary to enable him to employ his labor to advan- tage. It was their duty to consider the best means for remedying that defect. This might be done by establishing a system that all the waste lands they were about to colonise should be sold at a given price, and the proceeds of such sale be devoted to sending out to the colony a sufficient number of laborers to cultivate the land sold. He would endeavor to show there was a country in which their principles could be fairly tried. Every person must be aware of the enormous extent of the country under British dominion in Australia. It possessed a climate as fine as any in the world. It abounded in harbors which were necessary to render it a great country. All that it wanted was an intelligent people to occupy it. If such were done in time to ccme it would take its station among the great nations of the earth. Such would be an advantage to the Mother Country : the pressure of population would be relieved, and a field would be opened up for British commerce. There was another object of primary importance. He believed they could not expect success unless the people were a moral and religious people. How to effect this would be an important question for the consideration of the directors of the colony. The reason for founding an established church would not be applicable to a new colony such as they proposed to establish. He looked upon anything like the absence of religion with horror, but in what was now called the Voluntary Principle there would be ample means for providing religious instruction in the colony. ' ' Addresses were subsequently delivered by several members of Parliament, includinsf Colonel Torrens. 34 DRAWING THE PLANS. One of the most important resolutions was moved by our worthy pioneer, Richard Davies Hanson, ia after years the Chief Justice of our Province : The resolution stated "that amongst the unoccupied por- tions of the earth which form part of the British domin- ions, the south-east coast of Australia appears to be a spot peculiarly suitable for founding a colony upon the principles embodied in preceding resolutions." Mr. Hanson said : "The place where the colony was to be founded was one distinguished from every part of Aus- tralia. It possessed facilities of internal communica- tion even prior to the formation of roads. Along the shores of the two gulfs in the colony the colonists might easily convey all their produce to its central market. In the same manner they might also obtain those comforts and luxuries of life which they could not produce at home. Before the discovery made by Captain Stuit of the Murray, those who had considered the subject had satisfied themselves that there was a sufficiency of fertile soil not only to support the colonists, but to repay most amply all the toil which they might bestow on it- He would not go more fully at present into the descrip- tion of the soil and climate of the place, for enough had been said to satisfy any reasonable person, and perhaps they would take it as a proof of his sincerity when he informed them that he intended to form one of the first settlers himself." The resolution moved by Mr. Hanson was unani- mously carried. The efforts of the South Australian Association were successful, much of the credit being due to Robert- Gouger. Let the descendants of the pioneers, whenever they are brought into contact with Gouger-street,. remember the debt of gratitude they owe to the man whose nan:e it bears. As Secretary of the South Aus- tralian Association it was Gouger's joy, in 1834, to see a Colonization Bill, on the principles that he espoused and advocated, introduced bv Mr. Whitmore into the DRAWING THE PLANS. 35 House of Commons, and supported by Mr. Spring-Rice, the Secretary of State for the Colonies. THE COLONIZATION PLAN. The promoters of the colony the "experimental philosophers" as they were sarcastically termed had given much thought to the scheme. It was an experi- ment in the art of colonization, and one in which they took great pride. They wished to make it as indepen- dent of Parliamentary control as possible. They desired a fairly free hand. This is the reason why provision was made for placing the management of the colony in the hands of commissioners, which proved to be a clumsy and ultimately impossible piece of legis- lation ; it led to a dual and divided authority. In fact, as we shall see, in the course of our history, dualism was the bane of the colony in its early stages. By putting the control of the colony under commissioners those interested in the experiment wished to prevent any Government official from interference with their plans without the authority of Parliament. The Board of Commissioners were to superintend the sale of lands, and to exercise a general control over the matter of emigration. Land was to be sold at twelve shillings per acre. The Commissioners were empowered to raise the price when they thought proper. The whole of the purchase money from land was to be administered by the commissioners, not the Government, and was to- be spent by them in sending out emigrants of the two sexes in equal proportion, not to exceed the age of thirty. 3 each had to be paid for children between one and fifteen years of age. At fifteen years of age they were to come out free. The Act pledged the Crown to give a constitution as soon as the population amounted to 50,000 persons. No convicts were to be sent to the colony. The Government stipulated that 35,000 worth of land had to be sold before the colonising scheme could become operative. This was to be an indication that among the intending colonists there was no deficiency 36 DRAWING THE PLANS. of capital. 20,000 was also to be raised, and placed In the hands of trustees, as a guarantee or security that the colony would not be a charge on the Mother Country. The Commissioners were empowered to borrow money to the extent of 200,000 on the security of a colony that, as yet, had no real existence. CHAPTER III. DISCUSSIONS IN PARLIAMENT AND PRESS. INITIAL DIFFICULTIES. We now enter the House of Commons. July 23 r 1834, was a memorable day for Robert Gouger, Colonel Torrens, and others who had been long trying to fashion and to float our province. On that day Mr. Wolryche Whitmore moved the second reading of the South Australian Colonization Bill. This was at two o'clock in the morning. Mr. Young objected to proceeding with the Bill at that late hour. He moved that it be read a second time that day six months. Mr. Whitmore briefly explained the object of the Bill. Mr. Shiel remarked that in his own parish there were upwards of two hundred a week who said : ' 'Give us food or give us work," while it was not possible to- do either. He thought the Bill deserved consideration. The Secretary of State for the Colonies (Mr. Spring- Rice) felt called upon to say, on behalf of the Govern- ment, that in the sanction which the Ministers had given to the introduction of the Bill there had not been any undue encouragement. The authors of the Bill had made out a strong prima facie case. Not only so, they had also given such explanation of the principles on which the colonization was to be conducted as in- duced him to hope that the plans would have a successful issue. Some engagements would have to be entered into, and some sums of money deposited for the purpose 38 DISCUSSIONS IN PARLIAMENT AND PRESS. of securing the State against any charges. He suggested that there should be covenants, and a certain sum of money put down as a guarantee. It had been arranged that 20,000 should be placed by the authors of the project in the hands of the Treasury. Mr. Hughes affirmed that it was absurd to expect the House to jump to a conclusion on a subject which had occupied the framers of the Bill nine or ten months. He was disposed to move that the Bill should be read a second time that day six months. He would move that it be read a second time that day week. Sir H. Willoughby was anxious to state briefly his reason for supporting the amendment of his hon. friend (Mr. Hughes). At the hour in the morning at which the House had arrived it was impossible to give proper discussion to a colonising scheme which differed from all others. He wanted to know how (if this scheme should fail) these poor laborers were to be re-conveyed home. This pathetic and fatherly enquiry was rather too jnuch for the House, especially in the small hours of the morning. No doubt many of the members were thinking how long a time would elapse before they were "re-conveved home." There were cries of "div- ide! " "divide f" The gallery was then cleared for a division, the result being For the second reading . . 33 Against . . . . . . 17 Majority . . . . . . 16 On July 29, 1834, the Bill came up again for dis- cussion. Mr. Baring, one of the leading members of the House of Commons, must have given the members an entertaining time. He represented the Bill for the Colonization of South Australia as the most extra- ordinary that had ever been introduced into the House. He would call the attention of the Right. Hon. the DISCUSSIONS IN PARLIAMENT AND PRESS. 39 Secretary of State for the Colonies to the subject. Though the Bill professed to be brought in by the hon. member for Wolverhampton (Mr. Whitmore), and to be supported by the hon. and gallant member behind him (Colonel Torrens), yet when the House considered the immense extent of the scheme, and how the Crown lands were involved in it, it became very difficult to know how it could be considered otherwise than a Government measure. His first objection was to the period at which the Bill had been brought forward, at the close of the session. He thought it was too much to call upon Parliament at such a moment to deliberate upon so grave and comprehensive a subject as that of colonising South Australia. The real object of the colony was to realise the views of a set of gentlemen whom he hoped he should not offend by calling experi- mental philosophers, and with whom this was a favorite and long cherished theory. Those philosophers were about to form a colony upon a principle which would throw all others in the shade. They were persons possessing great and varied powers of mind, and most enlarged understandings. He was of opinion that plain, practical men were much better able to conduct the affairs of mankind than persons who advocated particular theories. If they wished merely to make an experiment, why had they not seized upon some moderately sized cabbage garden, without going to a country nobody knew where, and grasping a tract of land embracing several degrees of latitude and longi- tude, and bounded only by the great geographical line of the tropic of Capricorn. He regarded the Bill as a speculation. He objected to it because it raised a large sum of money by way of mortgage, and thus the management and future government of the country was taken out of the hands of the Crown. He would say take one hundred miles square, and he asked if that were not enough for these gentlemen to play their pranks in ? Why block up half the great continent by seizing on such an immense tract of land ? The very distance would make it impossible to form a settle- 40 DISCUSSIONS IN PARLIAMENT AND PRESS. merit to any considerable extent. The money to be borrowed was 200,000 in the first instance. The basis on which the whole plan rested was that no land was to be sold under twelve shillings per acre, and so positive were the philosophers in this theory that they would not leave it to the Government to interfere in any respect. He would pledge his existence on the fact that the principle of paying twelve shillings an acre,, and not allowing any credit, could not be practically acted upon, yet it was on this principle that the whole plan mainly rested. He expressed the opinion that the smallest quantity of land an emigrant (a capitalist) could take up was two hundred acres, which would cost him 120 in ready money. It would cost him 120 more to remove his family, and he must spend at least 500 to stock the land. He would put it to any man acquainted with the condition of the people to say was any person so great a fool as to lay out these sums of money to set himself down upon two hundred acres of land in a community of kangaroos ? Then in what way was the land to be worked ? Why, they expected the English laborer would go over there to work for them (convict labor not being permitted) but they would be disappointed, the laborer would not go to Australia to promote the experiments of others. He considered the details of the Bill quite impracticable. Two hundred thousand pounds was to be borrowed to send emigrants over to people the colony. He objected to bonds being circulated through the country, apparent- lv on the faith of an Act of Parliament, as they would tend very much to delude the public, who might advance the money, and would have the effect of lowering the credit of the country. There was another absurdity in the Bill : it was provided that those who lent the money should get it back upon three months' notice^ but how were they to get back their money from the tropic of Capricorn ? After this breezy and sarcastic speech, of which only an epitome has been given, Mr. Whitmore (who- DISCUSSIONS IN PARLIAMENT AND PRESS. 41 had charge of the Bill) addressed the House, replying seriatim to the objections raised. One sentence es- pecially deserves to be put on record : ' 'He would not say that their theory was right, it was yet untried, and might prove erroneous, but he would say that there was no class of philosophers or theorists (whatever the lion, member pleased to call them) who ever undertook a plan of any kind with less prospect of personal advan- tage to themselves." This statement was true. The Secretary of State (Mr. Spring-Rice) said the Government were fully aware of the difficulties which surrounded the question, but they were overbalanced by the great advantages, and the great possibilities of success held out by the propositions contained in the Bill. They had. therefore, determined to countenance the Bill, considering it one of the duties of the Govern- ment to do everything in its power to extend the advan- tage of British institutions to every part of the globe. The House divided over the question as to whether the Bill should go into committee. The voting was : For the motion . . . . . . 72 Against . . . . . . . . 7 Majority . . . . . . . . 65 It was stated in committee that the colony pos- sessed two of the finest harbours in the world, and that one hundred and sixty settlers, with ample means, were anxious immediately to emigrate. The third reading of the Bill passed the House of Commons on August 5th, 1834. Three days later it was introduced into the House of Lords by the Marquis of Clanricarde, with a petition in its favour. It passed the House of Lords on August 14th, 1834. the next day it received the Royal assent. The safe and speedy passage of the Bill through the House of Lords was largely due to the hero of Waterloo, the Duke of Wellington. For his services 42 DISCUSSIONS IN PARLIAMENT AND PRESS. he was told by three of the promoters of the colony that its capital should bear his name. This promise was not fulfilled. After the Bill was passed the commis- sioners named the capital of the new colony Adelaide, as a compliment to the King and Queen. THE BILL BEFORE THE PUBLIC. The London "Times" did not take kindly to the South Australian colonization scheme. From first to last the position taken up by that powerful paper was one of consistent and persistent antagonism. Before the Bill was introduced into Parliament the "Times" expressed its "entire distrust of the whole character and tendencies of such a project," and a hope that it would be "strangled in the birth." In the editorial eye the scheme was a land-grabbing venture. The paper was against a movement "that had power to seduce the ignorant and credulous beyond the juris- diction and protection of the laws of Britain." To the editor of the "Times" all such "crotchety under- takings" were "humbugs and something more." "Who," he asked, in one issue, "that has capital to lay out on landed property will go beyond the verge of the civilised world ? We take it for granted that the hope of mercantile profit by exporting wheat to England from such a distance would hardly ever enter into the motive of a sober-minded man. We have been charged with ignorance of the details of these gentlemen's boasted projects. We can only say that our distrust and contempt for the whole of them is founded on those projects aa explained by themselves. They have put forth a dream, and called it a calculation ; they have put forth a piece of social mechanism of which the chief recommendation is that it will not work itself, but will require a perpetual, laborious, and most precarious auxiliary system of external aid to support it." Everything that had occurred since the project for the colonization of South Australia had teen mooted only confirmed "the suspicion and dislike" with which DISCUSSIONS IN PARLIAMENT AND PRESS. 43 the editor of the "Times" regarded it. As the scheme would "neither bear the test of deliberation, nor the risk of a moderately full House of Commons," the promoters were "managing to smuggle the whole ugly job" through the Parliament. The "Times" compli- mented Mr. Baring on his speech, and expressed astonish- ment that the Secretary of State for the Colonies, and the House of Commons, should countenance "such wild goose quackery." There was "no bubble of the year" more deserving of reprobation than "the South Australian humbug." It is only fair to say that some of the criticisms of the " Times " were far-seeing, and history proved their .soundness. The "Standard" affirmed that Mr. Baring had exposed, with complete success, the jobbing character of the South Australian Colonization Bill, and no doubt would have succeeded in blocking the measure, but many of the liberal members of the House of Commons were directors or shareholders in the concern. If the editor of the "Courier" had any thought of emigrating he would prefer going to a colony managed on the old plan. The projectors of the new colony were proceeding on a different principle, which would make the colony as unlike an old country as possible. They assured the public that the plan adopted was a sovereign panacea for all the evils hitherto incidental to colonization, that jobbery, and even patronage, would have no place in this happy land. The editor of the "Courier" could not sympathise with these anticipations. In his judgment the colonization of South Australia, on the basis of the Bill before the House of Commons, -.vas a "quackish project," but he thought that "the varnish was too thin," and "the rottenness of the plan too obvious" to allow it to seduce the public. If a colony, on the principles proposed, were founded at Spencer's Gulf, though it might "want convicts," it would not certainly "be destitute of blockheads." The 44 DISCUSSIONS IN PARLIAMENT AND PRESS. "Courier" thought that the whole scheme "was an ex- periment on the gullibility of the public." THE FIRST COMMISSIONERS. After the South Australian Bill had received the Royal assent the Secretary of State (Mr. Spring-Rice) and Mr. Wolryche Whitmore, M.P., selected the com- missioners. The following were named : J. W. Childers, M.P. (after whom Childers-street,. North Adelaide, is named), W. Clay, M.P., G. Grote,. M.P., G. W. Norman, Colonel Torrens, M.P., and W. Whitmore, M.P. (after whom Whitmore-square is. called). DELAYS AND DIFFICULTIES. The birth pangs of South Australia were severe- and protracted. The leading newspapers were hostile. There were many who treated the scheme with in- difference, and others who were secret or open foes. On more than one occasion, after the passing of the- Colonization Bill, it seemed as though the movement rrmst collapse. Towards the end of 1834 there was a change of Government. The consequence was that all the gentlemen, who had been selected as commissioners by Mr. Spring-Rice, resigned, with the exception of Colonel Torrens, who manfully kept to his post. Colonel Torrens and Robert Gouger then waited upon the new Secretary of State (Lord Aberdeen) to receive his instructions. The latter stated that the functions of the South Australian Commissioners were not connected with party politics, and that he was able to give effect to the Colonization Act. He asked Colonel Torrens to give the names of gentlemen interested in the. proposed colony who might be willing to act as com- missioners. This the Colonel did. DISCUSSIONS IN PARLIAMENT AND PRESS. 45 Before Lord Aberdeen would proceed further he wished to know in what position the commissioners stood to the Crown. Were they to be accountable to the Crown, and personally responsible for the receipt and expenditure of the money obtained by the sale of lands in the proposed colony ? Before this question was satisfactorily settled there came another change of Government. Lord Glenelg (after whom our chief watering place is named) now came into office as Secretary of State for Colonies. He took action at once in the founding of South Australia. On the 5th of May, 1835, the follow- ing commissioners were gazetted : Colonel Torrens Jacob Montefiore W. A. Mackinnon John Wright William Hutt Samuel Mills George Palmer George Fife Angas Edward Barnard J. Shaw-Lefevre ROWLAND HILL, SECRETARY.* To make the colonization scheme operative this board of commissioners had to sell 35,000 worth of land, and to raise a guarantee fund of 20,000. Before this could be done there were preliminary difficulties. Considerable expense had to be incurred in providing offices, engaging clerks and agents, and in explaining to the public, through the press, the principles on which the colony was to be founded. The Government would give no aid, not even to the extent of passing letters through the post office free of charge, which it was requested to do. The commissioners were cast upon their own private resources, and those of the friends of the colony, to get money to carry on the work. But One of the Commissioners (William Hutt) was the ear- Host advocate of Mr. Wakefield's colonisation views, and the main instrument in bringing them before the public. Rowland Hill was the father of the penny postage. I have already pointed out the connection between the names of some of the promoters of our State and its streets and terraces. A few more may be given: Palmer-place, Barnard-street, Hill- street, Wright-street, Lefevre-terrace. 46 DISCUSSIONS IN PARLIAMENT AND PRESS. they were determined and patriotic men. Robert Gouger promised to advance 500 and John Brown (whom we shall meet again) 50 towards the expenses. Another gentleman offered to make an advance of money for the immediate expenses of the commissioners. Mr. Barnes agreed to advance 1,000 for the purchase of land, and Mr. Mills to take 1,000 in colonial securities- Colonel Torrens invested 1,000 in the purchase of land. In this way the pressing financial needs were met, and the conriiissioners went on with their work. The difficulty in meeting the financial require- ments of the Colonization Act seemed to be insuperable. The commissioners had to borrow 20,000 on the security of the resources of a colony not actually in existence, and to raise 35,000 by the sale of land pos- sessing only an anticipated, value. Their task was made the more difficult by the hostility of the leading papers. The public was dubious ; some were afraid of a second South Sea bubble. The apparent risky nature of the speculation made interest very high. One of the commissioners (Mr. John Wright) undertook to raise the 20,000 guarantee. A loan of 30,000 was negotiated by him, bearing interest at ten per cent. The sale of the land was the crux of the position. The conditions were that the land was to be sold in sections of eighty acres at 1 per acre, with a town acre added, the whole costing 81. Although the Bill had passed on August 14th, 1834, and the commissioners had worked hard to comply with its conditions, and to advertise the colony, yet by December 2, 1835, little more than 26,000 worth of land had been sold. The commissioners found it necessary to temporarily reduce the price of the land to twelve shillings per acre. George Fife Angas now came prominently upon the scene. He suggested the formation of a company to buy up the quantity of land required, and in other waya to give the colony a start. Here an error must be DISCUSSIONS IN PARLIAMENT AND PRESS. 47 . pointed out. It was not the South Australian Company that bought up the remaining 9,000 worth of land, that was necessary to meet the requirements of the Coloniza- tion Act as some have wrongly supposed. The facts of the case are these : Two or three gentlemen (Mr. Angas being one) interested in the proposed colony, put their capital together and bought up the land. When the 35,000 worth of land was sold the South Australian Company was not in existence. When giving evidence before a select committee of the House of Commons in 1841, Mr. Angas was asked " At what price did the company buy the land ?" The reply was : " The company, in fact, did not purchase any land of the commissioners. I must explain. The company did not exist when the remainder of the 35, COO worth of land was obtained. Three individuals joined their capital for the purpose of purchasing from 9,000 to 10,000 worth of land, which they obtained, in common witli other purchasers, at twelve shillings per acre." This was to be handed over to the company (if formed) on certain conditions. On January 22, 1836, the South Australian Com- pany was formed. Its directors were George Fife Angas (Chairman), Raikes Currie, M.P.. Charles Hindley, M.P., James Hyde, Henry Kingscote, John Pirie, John Rundle, M.P., Thomas Smith, James R. Todd. Henry Waymouth, and Christopher Rawson (1). In tlie founding of South Australia the company that bears its name rendered great and splendid seivice, but the Company must not be looked upon in the light of a purely patriotic or philanthropic institution. Like all other financial enterprises it was more egoistic than altruistic. It made great profits. From Mr. Angas' evidence, given before the select committee of the House of Commons in 1841, the author *It is interesting 1 to note the connection between the names of some of the directors of the company and our streets. Rundle, Hindley, Currie, Pirie, Angas, and Waymouth streets. Kingscote, Kangaroo Island, is named after Henry Kingscote. 48 DISCUSSIONS IN PARLIAMENT AND PRESS. gleaned that the company had purchased about 40,000 acres at 1 per acre. Mr. Angas affirmed that at the last report of the company they held : 168 acres in Adelaide and Port Adelaide. 134 acres at the New Port. In addition to these the company held from 34,000 to 35,000 acres of country land. The company sold three town lots (purchased originally at 1) at from 200 to 1,000 per acre. Several acres at the New Port (the original cost of which was 1 per acre) were sold by the company at from 1,300 to 1,800 per acre, payment to extend over a period of time, interest being charged on the amount unpaid. \ J During December, 1835, all the initial difficulties in the way of founding the colony were overcome. The provisions of the Bill were met. The board of com- missioners decided that a letter should be sent to the Government asking them to issue an order erecting the Province, and to take other steps consequent on the fulfilment of the provisions of the Act. There was still a delay over some minor matters. It was not till January 31st, 1836, that a letter was received by the commissioners stating that the " Letters Patent and Orders in Council had been laid before the King for His Majesty's sanction." On February 22, 1836, Captain Hindmarsh was gazetted as Governor of South Australia, and the fol- lowing gentlemen were chosen to fill official positions : Resident Commissioner James Hurtle Fisher. Colonial Secretary Robert Gouger. Judge Sir John Jeffcott. Advocate-General Charles Mann . Harbour-Master Captain T. Lipson. Governor's Secretary George Stevenson. Colonial Treasurer Osmond Gilles. Immigration Agent John Brown. Sur veyor-G eneral Colonel L i gh t . DISCUSSIONS IN PARLIAMENT AND PRESS. 49 Deputy-Surveyor George Strickland Kingston. Assistant Surveyors Boyle Travers Finniss. Wil- liam Jacob, &c. Twice every year the board of commissioners were to lay before the Secretary of State for the Colonies " full and particular accounts of receipts and disburse- ments." The Resident Commissioner was furnished with a body of instructions from the board. " By kindness and conciliation," and by the adoption of wise economical methods, he was to attach the emigrants to their adopted land. It is interesting "to note that the commissioners were of the opinion that the economi- cal institution, which seemed best calculated to pro- mote habits of frugality and industry, and to bind the working classes to the colony, was a Savings Bank." South Australians should gratefully remember the first board of commissioners. With one exception they served gratuitously. Theirs was a great responsibility. In spite of discouragement, misrepresentation, tre- mendous difficulties, and much opposition they launched a new experiment in colonization, which, notwithstand- ing certain reverses, with which we shall have to deal, ultimately proved a great success. CHAPTER IV. PREPARING TO BUILD. We are still in the Old Land more than half a- century ago. In anticipation of the founding of the colony some intending emigrants are taking time by the forelock. The thought has suggested itself to the minda of some of them that in the new land settlers might become so absorbed in things relating to the body as to neglect the cultivation of the mind. An antidote must be provided. Some of the more thoughtful spirits have talked the matter over, and have decided to form what is termed "The South Australian Literary Asso- ciation."* The objects of the society were stated to be : " The cultivation and diffusion of useful knowledge throughout the colony. ' ' Colonel Napier was appointed President and Osmond Gilles Treasurer. Among the committee of management we find such honored names as Robert Gouger, John Brown, Richard Davies Hanson, and George Strickland Kingston. A copy of the rules of the society was laid before the Under-Secretary of State, who was impressed with the intellectual calibre of some of the intending emigrants. The first conversazione in connection with this society was held in London on September 5, 1834. Richard Davies Hanson delivered the inaugural ad- dress. Said he : " The occasion of our meeting this, evening is the establishment of a Literary Association among the intending colonists of South Australia. . . . The reasons which have induced its formation in this *The old minute-book of the society has come to light. Quite accidentally it was discovered among some old books in the Colonial Office in London. It is now in the Public Library. PREPARING TO BUILD. 51 country are : 1. The advantages which may be expected from ' possessing mature organization in the first moments of the colony ;' otherwise ' the time of all might be too much occupied with other and more press- ing concerns to allow of their originating such a society/ 2. Another advantage in forming the Association would be ' the opportunity afforded by its existence in England to make arrangements, and to obtain books and appa- ratus, which could not, with equal facilities, be made or obtained elsewhere.' 3. But in addition to these more immediate motives there ' would be very great collateral advantages resulting to intended colonists from the periodical meetings of the Association.' They would ' tend to bring them into more immediate acquaintance with each other.' The meetings would ' afford oppor- tunities for the mutual development and discussion of ideas and plans.' The outcome would be ' habits of union and co-operation of the utmost value to an infant settlement.' ' Robert Gouger presented a library, consisting of many volumes, to the Association, and was made a life member. Before any emigrants left the Old Land an alteration was made in the name of the society. It- was called by a more ambitious title " The South Aus- tralian Literary and Scientific Association." All this is intensely interesting to South Aus- tralians, as it is probable that this society was the germ out of which the South Australian Institute grew.. Some of the books presented by Robert Gouger found their way into the Institute, and from thence into our Public Library, where they may be seen to-day. We leave this small band of intending emigrants, bent upon the cultivation of the mind, and attend another meeting of a more material character. It is in the year 1835, and the place of meeting is Exeter Hall, London. Colonel Ton ens, M.P., is in the chair. The Duke of Wellington is not able to attend. His apology is read. The gathering is a most jovial one. A dinner 52 PREPARING TO BUILD. is being given to Captain John Hindmarsh, R.N., whose " appointment as Governor of the new colony of South Australia His Majesty King William IV. has most graciously approved." Amongst those present are George Fife Angas and John Morphett, of whom we shall frequently have to speak. The " health of the Duke of Wellington and other members of the House of Lords who supported the South Australian Colonization Bill " is proposed. The members who supported the Bill in the House of Commons are honored in the same way. with " three times three." It is a most enthusiastic gathering. The cheering is " immense." All present seem to be of opinion that the new colony about to be founded in South Australia will be a great success. The Chairman speaks of South Australia as a land " where the climate of Paradise seems to have survived the Fall." In words more wise he says : " Britons cannot compel all nations to receive British goods more freely, but they can plant new nations to become customers. They can open unlimited markets in the now boundless forests. ... In the growing markets of Australia England will find, not only increasing supplies of the most valuable materials, but also an increasing demand for her fabrics." In conclusion he says : " The colon y of South Australia may now be considered as established. Biddings have already been made for the whole and for more than the whole of the land required by Act of Parliament to be disposed of before the first expedition shall depart. In a few weeks the first emigrants will be departing from these shores ; they will go to eat pleasant bread in a pleasant land at all events, the prayer of the present company will go with them. . . . Let their ways be ways of pleasantness, and all their paths be peace." After the lapse of some seventy years the descendants of the first emigrants can afford to smile at some of these post-prandial remarks. If Colonel Tor- rens had been caught in a South Australian duststorm or had sat in a shepherd's hut in the northern part of PREPARING TO BUILD. 53 the province on a hot summer's day, with the heat 114 in the shade, he would have grave doubts as to whether the climate of South Australia (healthy as it is) had " survived the Fall." But we are in Exeter Hall many, many years~ago. Another speaker rises. He tells the company that the first batch of emigrants are " a body of men who, in numbers, in intelligence, in respectability, in even-- thing which constitutes religious and moral worth far surpass any body of Englishmen who ever thought of settling in a distant colony since the days of William Penn." " Gentlemen," he says, " let us drink to the health, happiness, and prosperity of the emigrants to South Australia. May their community long flourish, a bright image of the moral, social, and political great- ness of the parent country, unaffected by any of the evils which are inseparable from older societies." Another speaker is John Morphett, who rose to distinction in the new land, lived to a grand old age, and was knighted by the Queen. Speaking on behalf of the emigrants, among other things, he says : " In heart I am now a South Australian." The Governor-elect is now on his feet no ordinary man. The memory of such brings a flush of pride to the cheek, and makes an English heart, though born in Australia, beat fast. He had fought under Nelson at the Nile and at Trafalgar. Such was his gallantry that Nelson summoned him to the deck and thanked him in the presence of the officers and crew. " As Governor of South Australia," he says, " I will continue to do my duty." The aborigines are not forgotten. " My power as Governor," he continues, " will be of little avail without being seconded by the exertions of the colonists. I, therefore, call upon them to second me in this good work, and, above all things, to prevent the aborigines from imbibing from them a taste for that bane of humanity spirituous liquors ; and I consider the most effective way the colonists can do this will be- 54 PREPARING TO BUILD. by setting them an example in forming one vast tem- perance society." Alas ! such good advice in relation to a few of the colonists was thrown away. The aborigines suf- fered much from their contact with some unprincipled and lecherous whites. They soon learned to drink, swear, gamble, and to commit baser sins. While as yet the first settlers dwelt in tents and bough booths on the shores of Holdfast Bay, notices were fastened to the gum-trees offering a reward for information as to the persons who supplied drink to the aborigines. To the shame of our race we have to acknowledge that one of the first cases tried in the infant settlement in South Australia was that in which two whites were charged with stealing a jacket and some spears and waddies from the aborigines. To-day they are a weak, degraded, decimated race, doomed to speedy extinction. We leave the meeting in Exeter Hall and attend another. This is held in honor of Colonel Torrens. He had taken a great interest in the projected colony. Much of the success of the colonization scheme was due to him. It was Colonel Torrens, as well as Robert Gouger, who stood at the helm in every time of storm. It was only right that intending emigrants, in a very practical way, should acknowledge the. fact. They -subscribed a sum of money, purchased a silver vase, and called a meeting of intending colonists. John Morphett is asked to make the presentation. Address- ing the Colonel he says : "I may aver, with great truth, sir, that our gratification will not terminate here, and I foresee that in the country of our adoption, sur- rounded by the comforts and wealth which must neces- sarily flow from our settlement under principles so enlightened, we shall have it in our power to pay # future tribute of admiration the most gratifying to a noble mind. Under our own vine and fig-tree will be repeated the name of Torrens, coupled with praises and benedictions as to one to whom we are indebted for that freedom and happiness which we shall inherit as PREPARING TO BUILD. 55 our birthright. It is a source of pride to me that I am going out to the colony to act in a capacity in which I shall insist in carrying out those principles which are the emanation of your wisdom and active benevolence." The first batch of emigrants did not leave England iso soon as Colonel Torrens anticipated. It was not till February, 1836, that the two first vessels the John Pirie and the Duke of York left the Old Land for Australian Shores. These vessels were sent out by private enterprise. They belonged to the newly- formed South Australian Company. It is in the Duke of York that we are specially in- terested. She was originally a Falmouth packet, built for speed, and sailed between Falmouth and New York. The South Australian Company purchased the vessel, and had her specially fitted out for the Australian trip. Our worthy pioneer (William L. Beare), who, as a lad, came out in the Duke of York, has furnished some incidents of the voyage. The vessel left St. Catherine's Docks on February 26, 1836, with Captain Morgan in command. It was a hazardous enterprise on which our pioneer fathers had entered, and the "setting out" was not at all auspicious. Before they lost sight of Old England severe storms were encountered, and the vessel had to put back twice for repairs. After getting clear of the English coast the passage w r as fine all the way. In more ways than one the voyage was unique. Not only were the emigrants about to attempt a great experiment, but they were inspired by a great ideal. The leading spirits were men who feared God, who were satisfied that some intelligent power lay at the basis of things. They were conscious of an over-ruling Providence, and of their dependence upon Him. Did ever a vessel set sail in which there was a higher moral tone than that which obtained on board the Duke of York ? Mr. Beare has affirmed that during the whole 56 PREPARING TO BUILD. voyage there was not a case of drunkenness, not even among the sailors, and there was an absence of all offensive language. Captain Morgan was not only an excellent seaman, but a man of high Christian character. He kept a diary of the voyage, which is still extant in MS. form. On board the Duke of York the Captain made his influence felt. Every night prayers were offered, and on Sunday, both morning and evening,. Divine service was held. On the Sunday afternoon the children were gathered together for religious in- struction. In after years the Duke of York was wrecked off Moreton Bay, on the Queensland coast. After the loss- of the vessel Captain Morgan returned to England and took charge of the missionary ship Camden, sailing her to the South Sea Islands. He was with the famous missionary, John Williams, when the latter was mur- dered by the natives at Erromanga. For fifteen years he was in the service of the London Missionary Society as captain, and died at St. Kilda. near Melbourne, in 1864. COLONWL, LIGHT. CHAPTER V. LAYING THE FOUNDATIONS. Before South Australia was colonised there were a few white settlers upon its shores. They lived on Kangaroo Island. It was so called by Captain Flinders, who discovered it in 1802. At that time the island was uninhabited. About seventeen years after Flinders' visit there were at least two white men upon Kangaroo Island. How they got there we are not in a position to state. They were either escaped convicts from some of the older settlements or runaway sailors. In course of time these were joined by others. Wild men they were hard as the rocks, salt as the sea. Away from the restraints of civilization they led a lawless life. The conscience was seared, and the spiritual instincts blunted. Apparently they had no higher ambition in life than to gratify their material instincts. In a spiritual sense they must have descended almost to the level of the kangaroos. Their time was spent in whal- ing, sealing, and wallaby-hunting. Sometimes they made a trip to the mainland and stole some of the blacks. One of the early emigrants, who came by the Africane in 1836, has left on record a description of one of these marauders. She says : " We next proceeded round the island, and as we entered Nepean Bay the flag was hoisted, and two guns fired to announce our approach. A boat, in which was a gentleman of the name of Samuel Stephens (who came out in the Duke of York) came off, rowed by four men, one of whom was Nathaniel Thomas, and had been resident on the island many years, but his appearance, I thought, was more like that of a savage than an Englishman. This man, by some mischance, 58 LAYING THE FOUNDATIONS. fell overboard, and, as the tide was running strong at the time, he was carried some distance from the vessel before assistance could be rendered, and, although he could swim well enough, he was watched by those on board with considerable anxiety on account of the sharks, which were known to be numerous. An oar, however, was thrown to him, on which he got astride till the boat reached him ; and when he was again on the deck he shook himself like a dog does when just out of the water, and took no more notice of the matter.* Before the year 1836 these white buccaneers had a whole island to themselves. They were " monarchs of all they surveyed," their " right there was no one to dispute." In fact, one of them was named " Governor Walker," or " Wallen." He had been on the island for many years, and had gone in for land cultivation. He died while on a visit to Adelaide in 1856, his body being carried back to the island for interment. A change was coming, one that these wild sealers and hunters viewed with considerable apprehension. In 1836 a vessel hove in sight. We can imagine how curiously the natives on the mainland, as well as the white buccaneers on Kangaroo Island, watched her as she mysteriously tacked along the coast, making for Nepean Bay. At length she dropped anchor. This was on Wednesday, July 27, 1836. It was the Duke of York, commanded by Captain C. R. Morgan. She had brought the first contingent of emigrants to the new land. In addition to officers and sailors (who went back with the ship) there were thirteen passengers on boardf , nine adults and four children. As this event will ever have historical value, we give the names of the' passengers : Mr. Samuel Stephens (first manager of the South Australian Company), Mr. Thomas Hudson *Diary of Mrs. Robert Thomas. tSorne records give the number as thirty-eight. The ex- planation is that the officers and crew of the vessel were reckoned with the passengers. LAYING THE FOUNDATIONS. 59 Beare, Mrs. Lucy Ann Beare, and the following children : Lucy, Arabella, Elizabeth, and William L. Beare ; also Charlotte Hudson Beare (afterwards Mrs. Samuel Stephens), and Messrs. Thomas Mitchell, Charles Powell, D. H. Schreyvogle, William West, and C. Neall. These were the pioneer settlers in South Australia the first contingent of sinewy men and women who were to make the " parched ground a pool " and the " wilderness blossom as the rose." The day before the vessel anchored the captain wrote in his journal : " At 8 a.m. saw the Island of Kangaroo ahead, bearing by compass N.N.E. At 5 p.m. shortened sail. Ran during the night a moderate distance from Kangaroo Island. In the evening held a prayer meeting. Read the twentieth chapter of Acts. Four prayed. Sang several hymns, and found it good to pray almost in sight of our haven." The day following some of the passengers landed. Jetties, of course, there were none. The pas- sengers would be carried " pick-a-back " by the sailors, or wade through the surf to the shore. There seems to have been some competition among the passengers of the Duke of York as to who should be the first to put foot on South Australian soil. The captain soon settled the question. The boat was launched. " Baby Beare " was put on board. She was rowed to the beach, and, amid the cheers of the emigrants, one of the sailors carried her through the surf and planted her feet on the shore. What was the first act of the settlers on reaching the shore ? Was it to go on an exploring expedition ? To attend to their material wants ? No. To give thanks to God. There was neither ordained preacher nor temple made with hands. In the great temple of Nature, under the blue vault of heaven, they returned thanks for the mercies of the voyage. Is it not a picture worthy of the poet's muse or the painter's brush ? A little band of men and women pioneer settlers, nation- GO LAYING THE FOUNDATIONS. builders met on the shores of a country practically unknown. Before them is the ocean. Riding at anchor in Nepean Bay is the vessel in which they have sailed. Behind is the dense scrub of Kangaroo Island- Away in the distance the mainland, on which they will ultimately dwell. Under foot the beach of Nepean Bay. Captain Morgan stands up. The emigrants cluster around him. Heads are bowed and hearts up- lifted while the captain conducts a short service, con- cluding with extempore prayer. Are not these the " deeds that have won the Empire ?" the memory of which should never die. After spending a few hours on shore the emigrants returned to the vessel, where they spent the night .. Next day they made preparations to build huts and pitched their tents. It was on Kangaroo Island that the first settlement was to be formed. Such were the instructions that the South Australian Company in Lon- don gave to Samuel Stephens. Shops were to be erected and cottages for shepherds and herdsmen were to be built. This proved to be a mistake, as further on we shall see. How did the emigrants spend their first Sunday in the new land ? In his journal Captain Morgan wrote : " In the forenoon had prayers in the cabin, with a sermon from Hebrews xiii., verse 5. In the afternoon instructed the children. In the evening we had service on the quarter-deck. . . . Read a sermon, and ex- horted the people. We commenced and ended with prayer and song. So concluded this day the first Sunday in this port." What a strange experience the first emigrants r must have been ! How very unreal ! Were they awake, or did they dream ? Had they really left the Old Land ? Were their loved ones the other side of the world sixteen thousand miles away ? What a sense of loneliness must have sometimes come over them ! They had lived in a land of villages and towns LAYING THE FOUNDATIONS. 61 a land where myriads hurried through the streets. Here neither street, village, nor town could be seen. It was an empty land. No street, since creation, had been formed, and no city built. Save the members of their own community and a few half-savage whalers and sealers, no white face was to be seen. They had been accustomed to the roar of traffic ; here, save the chatter of the birds, the sigh of the wind, or the sough of the ocean, no sounds could be heard. The solitude at times must have been oppressive, the silence intense. But amid the gloom there were gleams of sunshine. They were in a new world. Here there were strange fruits and flowers, and trees that never shed their leaves. Here were peculiar insects and gaily dressed birds. The warble of the magpie made the heart glad, and the weird laugh of the jackass first caused alarm, and then pro- voked a smile. They saw the wallaby hopping in the scrub, the emu running along with her chicks, and, per- adventure, the well-conditioned wombat hurrying to his hole. The heart danced with delight at the sight of a sail. Ere long there was the joy of receiving a letter from " home." How firmly the precious missive would be grasped. How quickly the recipient would hurry away. The hand would tremble and the heart beat fast as the fingers broke the seal. Ah ! there was the old familiar handwriting, but changed. The letter was blotched and the writing blurred. Here and there was a stain. What did it mean '? A tear a soul's travail the liquefied love of a father's or mother's heart. How fast the emigrant's eye would fly over the words till the end was reached. The nerves were steadier now. The reader would begin again. This time the eye would linger over the sentences, whilst the soul listened with delight to the music of a familiar voice, and gazed in ecstacy upon a sweet but intangible face. But duty calls. The log fire must be renewed and the kettle hung. The letter is folded up, only to be again and again unfolded and re-read. At night the emigrant dreams ! Space is annihilated ! He or she 62 LAYING THE FOUNDATIONS. is in Old England now. The snow is falling. A little white-washed cottage appears in view. There is the garden in which the honeysuckle and jessamine grow. A dear old figure is standing at the gate. A wild blast comes sweeping by. The emigrant awakes. Ah ! it was only a dream a beautiful creation shattered by the scream of an excited parrot or the howl of the hungiy dingo. The soul may have seen Old England, but the body is in a tent or reed hut on the shores of an Aus- tralian bay. Shortly after the arrival of the Duke of York the Lady Mary Pelham dropped anchor in Nepean Bay. There were six passengers on board, and twenty-three officers and men. She was soon followed by the John Pirie, laden with stores, carrying fourteen passengers, and fourteen officers and men. All these vessels be- longed to the South Australian Company ; it was private enterprise that fitted them up and sent them out. No emigrant vessel dispatched by the Government Com- missioners had yet arrived. The Cygnet was the first to set sail, followed by the Rapid, having on board the Surveyor-General, Colonel Light. There were two questions exercising the emigrants' minds. One was: WHERE WILL THE CITY BE BUILT ? Until this question was settled nothing definite could be done. It was one in which the people had no direct voice. Sole power* was vested in Colonel Light. Writing to him the Commissioners said : "In entrusting you with the decision of this difficult question the Com- missioners feel they cannot too much impress you with the importance of a duty on the judicious performance of which the prosperity of the colony so greatly depends. They feel assured that you will enter upon the task with the most anxious desire to arrive at the best possible re- sult ; and, believing such a result will be most effectually secured by placing the whole responsibility of the deci- sion in your hands, the Commissioners purposely avoid LAYING THE FOUNDATIONS. 63 all minute instructions for your guidance, and desire that you will consider yourself at liberty to deviate, even from the more general instructions given, if, in the discharge of your duty, new facts should arise which, in your opinion, justify so strong a measure. . . . When you have determined the site of the first town you will proceed to lay it out in accordance with the ' Regulations for the Preliminary Sales of Colonial Lands in this Country.' You will make the streets of ample width, and arrange them with reference to the convenience of the inhabitants and the beauty and salubrity of the town ; and you will make the necessary reserves for squares, public walks, and quays." In the way of surveying the country and of fixing the city site, nothing could be decided till Colonel Light came. It was on the 19th of August, 1836, that the Rapid, with Colonel Light in command, rode into Nepean Bay. At once the Colonel set to work. Kangaroo Island as a suitable place for settlement was condemned. The land was poor. Port Lincoln could not be recom- mended. The waterway was not sufficiently safe. Much was to be said in favor of Holdfast Bay. The Colonel's position was a most responsible one. It waa not a temporary question that he had to settle, but one the effect of which was to continue for all time. It was not for the present generation that he had to decide, but for generations unborn. Posterity must either applaud or condemn. In fixing the site of the city several things had to be taken into consideration. So far as a mere basis on which to build is concerned, such could easily be found. It was not so easy to find a suitable port or a stream of water from which the inhabitants could drink. It was these difficulties that Colonel Light had to face. For some time he could neither find port nor suitable- stream of water. After a careful examination of the coast both of these difficulties were overcome. An arm 64 LAYING THE FOUNDATIONS. of the sea was discovered running several miles inland, offering an admirable shelter for ships. Here the Colonel decided to fix his port. Farther inland a fresh water river had been found, larger than any yet seen. On the banks of this stream on the plain called by the natives Tandanya he decided that the city should be built. Four months had passed away since Colonel Light had begun his work. During that time several emigrant ships had arrived. As Kangaroo Island had been con- demned, most of the passengers were landed at Holdfast Bay. On Christmas Day, 1836, there must have been at least three hundred settlers on South Australian soil. To every community there must be a head. It seems to be a necessity of our nature that there should be some embodiment of law and order, and in every social organism there is something lacking until that necessity is met. It was so in the experience of the early emigrants. The site for the city had been fixed, but the Governor had not yet arrived. How anxiously they looked for his advent. WHEN WILL THE GOVERNOR COME ? would be an oft-repeated question. Frequently the eyes of the emigrants scanned the ocean. What was the reason of the delay ? At length another sail hove in sight. It was the long-expected and anxiously- looked-for H.M.S. Buffalo. It had the Governor on board, the Resident Commissioner (James Hurtle Fisher), and the Colonial Chaplain (the Rev. Charles B. Howard). What excitement there must have been amongst the emigrants ! What demonstrations of joy ! Rush huts and tents would be vacated. Down the emigrants would run young and old to the water's edge. What a motley assemblage ! The tall hat would be in evidence, and the smock frock and gaiters, too. The Governor and party would either have to submit to the orthodox style of transhipment " pick- LAYING THE FOUNDATIONS. 65 a-back " or take off boots and socks, turn up the trousers, and wade through the water. The position may not have been a very dignified one, but necessity knows no law, and is no respecter of persons. The Governor was received by the leading men of the small community. There was a preliminary meeting in the tent of Robert Gouger, Colonial Secretary. An ad- journment was then made to a large gum-tree. Here the proclamation was read and the British flag unfurled. A royal salute was fired ! The air rang with hurrahs ! A cold lunch, consisting chiefly of pork and a ham, was served up in a very primitive style. The Governor mounted a chair and gave the first toast, " The King." This was received with " three times three." The National Anthem followed, the tune being started by Osmond Gilles, the Colonial Treasurer. So accustomed were the emigrants to a succession of Georges that they forgot for the time being that a William was now on the throne, so the first line was sung as of yore . " God save great George, our King." Other toasts followed. " Rule Britannia " was sung. The emigrants, amid their wild and, in some respects, weird surroundings, were determined to do honor to the occasion, and the shades of evening brought to a close the most exciting day save the day of their landing that they had seen.* But on that auspicious day the birthday of a nation there was shade as well as sunshine- there were heart pangs as well as joys. At least one young mother who came out in the Buffalo, with a husband and two little children, almost lost heart and hope. While the proclamation was being read under the gum-tree on the shore of Holdfast Bay she sat on a box and wept. It was the day of her landing. Ere long she was to con- tribute another life to the little company of adventurers, and the thought of the unknown future of the naked- *'iwo of the carronades of the old Buffalo are now on the seawall at Glenelg, near the spot where Governor Hindmarsn landed. 66 LAYING THE FOUNDATIONS. ness of the land as far as the advantages of civilization are concerned must have filled her with dismay. There were no streets nor cities, wheat fields nor flower or fruit gardens ; no storehouses nor factories, houses nor hospitals, waggons nor omnibuses. To the west of the gum-tree near which she sat there was the restless ocean, murmuring and sobbing, with the Buffalo the last tangible link that bound her to the land of her fathers riding at anchor ; to the north and the south were sandhills, glistening in the fierce rays of the summer's sun ; eastward there were plains covered with dry- grass and sombre gums. Here and there some of the black-skinned natives could be seen. Amid such strange surroundings no wonder that the young mother fresh from the Old Country, wept. Would they be able to secure the necessaries of life for their children 1 Would the enterprise in which they had embarked be a success or a failure ? Would a town ever be laid out or a city built ? Would they fall victims to the blacks ? Would they ever see the Old Land, and loved ones left behind, again ? Not the Old Land. Both husband and wife sleep in God's acre, near an old church, among the beautiful hills south of the City of Adelaide a city which became to them a very substantial fact. They saw houses built and gardens planted, a large section of the country populated, and some years after they had been gathered to their fathers one of their little ones who came out in the Buffalo (grown to be an aged matron) contributed some material for this colonization romance. No source of information respecting bygone times is so charming, frank, and realistic as letters. Fortu- nately some of the letters of the pioneers have been preserved. We quote one written by a young lady who came out with Governor Hindmarsh in the Buffalo: " We arrived in Holdfast Bay early on the morning of December 28, 1836. After searching a short time we descried a flagstaff, which had been erected near the shore by those already there. A boat was instantly LAYING THE FOUNDATIONS. 67 lowered and sent on shore, and returned with Mr. Gouger (the Colonial Secretary) and some of the gentle- men. After some consultation it was agieed that the proclamation should be read, for which purpose it was necessary that all the officers belonging to the colony should go on shore, and it was also deteimined that the ladies should accompany them. We left the Buffalo at 1 o'clock, and, upon our arrival on the shore, we weie met by some of the ladies and gentlemen already there. We first proceeded to the Colonial Secretary's hut. The ladies adjourned to another hut belonging to Mr. Brown, the emigration agent, and remained there until the Governor had taken the oath of allegiance. When that ceremony was over we again joined the gentlemen, and Mr. Stevenson, His Excellency's Secretary, read the proclamation aloud, after which a party cf the marines fired a " feu-de-joie," and we proceeded to where a cold collation had been prepared for us under a large gum-tree. Numerous speeches were made, and healths drunk, after which I took a short stroll, with some others, in consequence of which we missed the boat, so that I was detained on shore long after dark, but, to tell you the truth, I was not sorry for it, for papa, James, Charles, Fanny, and several others were with us, and we were very hospitably entertained by a gentleman who had pitched his tent there, and enjoyed ourselves very much. This was the first time I trod in South Australia, and on this day was laid the founda- tions of a colony of which the most sanguine expecta- tions have been formed, and which I sincerely trust will one day become the means of civilising a tract of country hitherto inhabited only by savages, and also in course of time of introducing Christianity into a country that has never yet acknowledged a Divine Creator." The pioneer father (George Stevenson), who read the proclamation, wrote : " Nothing could be more delightful or promising than the aspect of the plains named by His Excellency ' Glenelg,' on which the 68 LAYING THE FOUNDATIONS. Government was constituted. They are of great ex- tent, as nearly as could be guessed twenty miles in length by about eight in breadth. The soil appeared to be of the richest quality, and was pronounced equal, by those who had seen both, to the prairies of Ohio and Indiana. Numerous splendid trees of the eucalyptus gums, the banksia (Rosa marina folia), in full flower, studded the plain. The lupin, buttercup, and several of the wild flowers of our own country were met with and hailed with delight. Parrots, parrakeets, and quail were met with in great variety. Everything indicated, in short, the wild profusion which Nature delights to throw over her most favored spots, and few of the agri- culturists present but hoped their lines would fall in such pleasant places. May South Australia flourish ! was the prayer of every heart." In the Governor's proclamation the spirit in which English people set about the work of colonization and the basis on which they build may be seen : In announcing to the colonists of His Majesty's Province of South Australia the establish- ment of the Government,- I hereby call upon them to conduct themselves on all occasions with order and quietness, duly to respect the laws, and, by a course of in- dustry and sobriety, by the practice of sound morality, and a strict observance of the ordinances of religion, to prove them- selves worthy to be the founders of a great and free colony. The proclamation also stated that the Governor would take every lawful means to secure to the abori- gines all the rights of British subjects. After Colonel Light had fixed the site for the city there was considerable dispute. Some of the settlers wanted it in one place and some in another. Governor Hindmarsh was pleased with the surroundings, but LAYING THE FOUNDATIONS. 69 thought that the city would be too far from the harbor. He wished it to be located two miles lower down the river; but here the winter torrents were found to over- flow the banks of the Torrens. He expressed a pre- ference for Encounter Bay. Fortunately Colonel Light's power in the matter was absolute. He man- fully stood his ground. Experience has demonstrated the wisdom of his choice. A more suitable site for the city (after more than sixty years' experience) it would be difficult to find. It was within easy reach of the sea, and was surrounded by good country, and on rising ground. There was fresh water in the Torrens, and the eastern hills formed a beautiful background. Some of the descendants of the pioneers may imagine that the city site and its environs were densely covered with scrub. Such was not the case. To the north the country was open. There were belts of gums lining water courses. To the south the country was well- wooded, in many places resembling an English park. The primitive character of some of the southern country is expressed in the names that it still bears Goodwood Park, Unley Park, Black Forest. The same wisdom displayed in the choice of the city site was manifested in laying it out. The city lies- four square. Provision was made for wide streets, public squares, and a park around the town. At the request of King William IV. it wa called Adelaide, in honour of the Royal Consort. It was under great difficulties that Colonel Light carried out his work. The means of transit were very defective. Horses were not procurable. The Sur- veyor-General and staff had to travel on foot. The men were poorly paid; " two-shillings-a-day-slaves " was the taunt thrown at them. As the new settlement was struggling into existence commissariat arrange- ments were very defective. No land had yet been ploughed. Emigrants were dependent for food upon outside sources. Not only were Colonel Light's men badly paid, but sometimes poorly fed. It cannot be 70 LAYING THE FOUNDATIONS. matter of surprise, then, that great dissatisfaction existed. Strikes were frequent, and the work of survey retarded. Such was the demand for food in the nascent settlement that provisions intended for the survey party were dealt out to the emigrants as well. The consequence was the men ceased to work. The Sur- veyor-General was blamed for want of progress. Settlers were exasperated because surveys were not completed, and they could not take up land. One sarcastically suggested that he might go home for a few years, and still come back in time to select his farm. Well might Colonel Light say : "I began to feel a very evident change in my health, which, with anxieties of mind, wore me down much. I was obliged to neglect many days working in consequence." His life in the colony soon came to a close. It is not always possible to anticipate the future, and to be wise after the event is a very common experi- ence. The founding of South Australia was an experi- ment. Of course, blunders were made. Looking back more than sixty years we imagine that we could have given our fathers many lessons in colonization. In some respects it would have been an advantage if Colonel Light and staff had preceded the emigrants. No doubt it would have saved time and trouble if the site of the city had been fixed, and some of the country surveyed before an emigrant put a foot upon South Australian soil. It was Robert Gouger's desire that something of this sort should be done : that two vessels should be sent out; the first to discharge cargo on the South Australian coast, and then to proceed to Van Dieman's Land (Tasmania) for food. The other vessel was to survey the coast of the proposed colony. When the most desirable site for the city had been ascertained a third vessel was to sail from England filled with artisans and labourers, to form roads, and to prepare houses for the reception of the body of emigrants which was to follow. This arrangement was not carried out. But there is often a greater charm about that which is LAYING THE FOUNDATIONS. 71 -extempore than about that which is stiff, precise, and mechanical. If the site of the city had been fixed, and some of the country surveyed before the arrival of the emigrants, then the founding of our province would have been without much of its present charm. Where would have been the picturesque encampment at Hold- fast Bay, of which we shall speak, and the primitive settlement on the banks of the Torrens ? Where would have been the romantic experiences of the pioneers whilst they waited for the site of the city to be fixed, and the land surveyed ? It was a valuable discipline through which they passed. Let us be grateful that the very contingencies of life make possible the poetical and the heroic. The foundations were now well and truly laid ; how the superstructure was reared W T C must leave for -coming chapters. CHAPTER VI. THE BUILDERS' SOCIAL LIFE AND MATERIAL SURROUNDINGS. The foundations of the colony had been laid, now came the work of raising the superstructure. Of the present generation of South Australians it may be said: " Other men laboured, and ye have entered into their labours." In building up the Commonwealth it was under peculiar conditions that the pioneers had to work. Said one of the most worthy of them : " Men generally laboured from early morning to dusky eve_ Restless nights were frequent, and hard work by day caused us often to feel weary by the way." Yet there were compensations. As we shall see, there was a great deal of romance about these early days that is no longer possible. If colonists are more comfortable to-day their circumstances are more prosaic. We saw that the first temporary settlement was at Kangaroo Island ; the second at Holdfast Bay. Here the emigrants dwelt in tents, and in rude huts made of rushes and boughs. " Hutting " them- selves was the term they used. Some for the first evening or two after their arrival had to sleep in the open air. They made for themselves beds among the bushes, on the beach, just above high water mark. One of the pioneers, who arrived on a Saturday in January, 1837, tells how himself, wife, and two children had to camp in the open air from Saturday night to Monday morning. They then set to work cutting down trees, and covering them with bushes. In this way (as many others did) they constructed a temporary shelter. Robert Gouger, the Colonial Secretary, describes how THE BUILDERS' SOCIAL LIFE. 73 he pitched his tent a little more than a mile from the beach, under the shade of some gums. We see him, under a blazing sun, transporting his goods from the beach to his tent in a small hand tiuck. Now he has to pull the truck through deep sand, and now over an uneven field, covered with grass. Three journeys from, the tent to the beach is a good day's work. At night he retires to the vessel to sleep, wading nearly breast high to reach the boat that is to convey him to the vessel. Near the tents and rush huts of the emigrants were the wigwams of some of the Adelaide tribe of natives. The life was rough, but it was romantic. One is reminded of the Feast of Tabernacles, when the children of Israel dwelt in booths made of boughs. Gentle folk and simple folk, learned and illiterate, dwelt together as one family. One of the pioneers (Mrs. Robert Thomas) has left on record a description as to how the emigrants spent their first Christmas far away from the " dear Old Land." In her diary she writes : " December the 25th, 1836 This being Christmas Day, and Sunday, divine service was held for the first time in the hut of the prin- cipal surveyor, a short distance from our tents. We attended, taking our seats with us; the signal for attend- ing being the firing of a gun. The congregation num- bered twenty-five persons, including the two gentlemen who conducted the service, the thermometer standing at 100 degrees, and most of those assembled being in the open air. . . . We kept up the old custom of Christmas as far as having a plum pudding for dinner was concerned, likewise a ham and a parrot pie, but one of our neighbours, as we afterwards found, had a large piece of roast beef, though we were not aware at the time that any fresh meat was to be had in the colony." Hereby hangs a tale. Where the roast beef came from was at first a mystery. It gives point to the old proverb : " It is an ill wind that blows nobody any 74 THE BUILDERS' SOCIAL LIFE. good." It appears that the Captain of the Africane (one of the emigrant vessels) had a cow and calf on board. Whilst the vessel was lying at anchor, for change of scenery and food the cow and calf were tran- shipped to land. They were placed under the care of one of the emigrants. Unfortunately in one respect and fortunately in another the cow was tied to a tree not far from a lagoon. She got over the bank, fell in, and was hopelessly injured. She was killed, and in this way some of the emigrants were supplied with a little Christmas beef. There is one sentence in Mrs. Thomas' diary that is very suggestive : they went to the rush hut of the principal surveyor for divine service " taking their seats with them." Comment is not necessary. Two lay- men conducted the service because no minister of the Gospel had yet arrived. From the letter of another lady pioneer we get a very good idea of the pioneer settlement at Hold- fast Bay, the settlers, and their surroundings : " The beach is a very fine white sand, hard close to the water, and then rises to hillocks of deep loose sand, with shrubs growing in it. When we had passed these little banks of sand, which do not extend above a quarter of a mile, we entered a fine open plain, with beautiful trees scat- tered over it, looking very green, also some shrubs, although at the end of a hot summer. The stores and a few huts and tents are erected at the entrance to the plain, and we walked on about three-quarters of a mile to where many of the settlers had pitched their tents. It appeared like a beautiful park. Some of the trees were large and old. They were chiefly the sheaoak, and tea-tree, and gum, and several others we did not know. There were wild strawberries, raspberries, and a sort of cranberry. The kangaroos are scarce, and some have been sold at one shilling a pound. We saw flocks of green and crimson parrots. They were plenti- ful, and very good eating ; also the bronze-winged pigeon ; cockatoos black, and crimson, and white, and THE BUILDERS' SOCIAL LIFE. 75 yellow. The natives eat rats, snakes, or anything they can find. They will come to shake hands very friendly. They ask for biscuit, and say " good-night," which they know to be a sort of salutation, so say it at any time. There was a woman buried last night who came in the Coromandel.* A party of natives attended, and seemed very much affected, putting up their hands ; and an old man, whom they called Ginykin their chief, we think wept. They are very superstitious, and very idle, lying under a tree all day ; but in the evening they have a dance, or merry-making they call a " corro- bery." One of the first things we noticed on entering the settlement was the truly English custom : I mean several printed bills one a caution, the other a reward. The caution was a high fine on any person giving spirits or wine to the blacks; the reward was five pounds for the discovery of a person who had already transgressed the orders. There were several others posted about on the gum trees. . . . We all rose early, with parrots chirping over our heads, and breakfasted with Mrs. Brown. The coffee mill is nailed to a tree outside the tent, and the roaster stands close by the side. The fire for cooking is on the ground close by. The fresh branches of gum trees burn like dry wood ; firing will cost us nothing for years. Each family has erected a tent under a tree, and dug a well by the side of it. . . . Water can be had for digging about six feet all over the plains called Glenelg. The trees are generally from fifty to a few hundred feet apart, and mostly without any bush between." The above are the first impressions of one of the early emigrants, who was evidently of a very observing turn of mind. The Mrs. Brown, to w'hom she refers, would be the wife of the Emigration Agent, whose duty it was " to receive the laboring emigrants upon their arrival, to enquire into their treatment during the voyage, to provide shelter for them and their baggage, to *The name of the vessel still lingers in Coromanclel Valley. 76 THE BUILDERS' SOCIAL LIFE. assist them in procuring employment, and to provide them with work until they had sufficient time to find masters, and enter into engagements." The romance was not all joyous. One of the first settlers complained of the fleas in the sand hills, and the mosquitoes, no doubt attracted by the lagoons. Another complained of the centipedes. Within two yards of his tent five had been caught about five inches long. One night the occupier put his hand within an inch of a large scorpion. Ants were troublesome, and the ubiquitous rat had also made its appearance, and was making inroads on scanty stores. It was with mingled feelings of hope and fear that the early emigrants approached the new land. We gather this from the MS. journal of Pastor Finlayson. He was a fine old man a splendid specimen of a pioneer. The colony had only been founded about a year when he arrived. He tabernacled with us sixty years. It was in 1837 that the John Renwick, in which he sailed from the Old Country, came gliding along the South Aus- tralian coast. Said he : " The Mount Lofty Range beyond was beautiful, and, as a Scotchman. I was truly glad that the country had hills. Their appearance wa& parched and white, it being now the end of summer, and the grass dry, but they were bold in outline, and were a striking figure in the landscape. We were truly glad to get to the termination of our voyage, but after dark a grand, and to us, mysterious fire began to kindle on the hills, which alarmed us not a little. It spread with amazing rapidity from one hill to another, until the whole range before us seemed one mass of flame. We looked at each other, and the knowing ones shook their heads and declared that it was a signal for the native clans to gather for the purpose of destroying the white intruders. They even pointed to what they in their terror took to be native forms adding to and spreading the flame. It was, indeed, a grand and a fearful sight, and many sat on deck watching all night long expecting to see bands of naked savages coming down upon us.. THE BUILDERS' SOCIAL LIFE. 77 The new settlers soon learned that at the end of the summer the poor natives were in the habit of firing the grass that they might secure reptiles and animals for food. The incident above recorded, however, filled many with a lasting dread of aboriginals, and for the first few months the whole settlement of Adelaide kept watch and ward against a " black attack." which never came.* The fear of an assault was not an unreasonable one, as the new arrivals did not know what enemies dwelt beyond the hills, but the natives soon lost whatever warlike spirit they may at first have possessed, and cringed and whined in unmanly fashion." After the site for the city had been fixed, a move was made from the temporary settlement on the coast to the environs of the prospective town. There weie neither roads nor conveyances. The emigrants had to walk through the bush to the city site (a distance of about seven miles) and transport their possessions as best they could. Some were fortunate enough to secure the services of a small hand cart. One of our pioneers, who rose to distinction in the State, had his goods transported from the seaboard to the site on which the city was to be built in a w r heelbarrow. Others had to carry their goods in their arms. To many it must have been an anxious time, and need we be surprised if some looked back with aching hearts to the little cottage or flower garden that had been theirs in the dear Old Land ? But regrets were unavailing. Re- treat (even if desired) was impossible. The ocean had been crossed; the momentous step had been taken; for "better, for worse, for richer, for poorer," they were committed to a great and hazardous enterprise. The salient features of this primitive pilgrimage rise before us. Seven miles have to be traversed between ''There were two things which filled our pilgrim fathers :.nd mothers with fear the blacks and the serpents, some of the latter being: of a deadly type. 78 THE BUILDERS' SOCIAL LIFE. Holdfast Bay and the Torrens banks. The' country is- covered with timber, and the weather is hot. We see flushed faces and perspiring brows; we hear the cry of little children, and the welcome joke of the man of buoyant spirit, who, like Mark Tapley, can be happy under any circumstances. We see parents with their arms full of utensils, and little ones, footsore and weary r clinging to their mothers' skirts. Here and there an elder brother or sister is carrying a little one pick-a- back. The experiences of some of the pioneer pilgrims were amusing. One thought that he could do the journey better bootless, but experience taught him a lesson, which he effectually learned. Pastor Finlayson tells ht)w he filled a cask with articles and rolled it from the seaboard to where Hindmarsh now stands, some four or five miles. The experiment was not a success. Amongst the articles there was a smoothing iron, and in rolling the cask the iron did considerable damage. To make his misfortune complete the head of the cask came out, and his goods were scattered. The land on which the city was to be built not yet being available, another temporary encampment was formed. The locality was the banks of the Torrens, between what is now called North-terrace and the river, A description of the Torrens in 1836 may not be uninteresting. Its banks were covered with trees and undergrowth. In the bed of the river were tea-tree and reeds. In summer the river itself consisted of a number of holes, full of clear water, connected with each other by a tiny stream. It was on this streak of water that would not carry a blackfellow's canoe in summer, that some emigration agent in the Old Country had pictured a large ship, riding at anchor. From Government Hut to below what is now the populous suburb of Hindmarsh gum trees and shrubs lined the banks of the Torrens. Here was one of the most plea- sant walks that the early emigrants could take. Walk- THE BUILDERS' SOCIAL LIFE. 79 ing down the river side they could see innumerable parrots and flocks of white cockatoos. Occasionally a native might be seen climbing the trees, searching for a large caterpillar, a most toothsome morsel of food. The settlers had few of the advantages of civiliza- tion. There was neither slate, shingle, board, nor galvanised iron depot. Some of the huts were com- posed of mud and grass, covered with reeds ; others were wooden frames, on which canvas was stretched. "Government House" the "vice-regal mansion" as it was sarcastically called was a wattle and daub hut. In wet weather " hut wives " found it a difficult matter to keep the rain out. They had to resort to various expedients. Sometimes umbrellas were propped up to keep the goods dry. Some of the emigrants, before leaving England, had made arrangements for a few small houses, ready made, to be shipped. They were to come by the Tarn O'Shanter. Unfortunately, as the vessel was sailing from Kangaroo Island to what is known as Port Ade- laide, she struck a sand bar, and had to remain there some time. Says one of the pioneers : " The sailors had to attend to the ship, and we had to do as best we could. Some cut down a few light saplings and, putting them together as well as they were able, went down to the bed of the river and cut some grass with which to make a kind of wurley hut, into which we had to go and there spend the winter, improving the place a little as the days went by. We were frequently obliged to fix up umbrellas, &c., to keep off the drenching rain, no other means being available at the time." Another pioneer tells how he and his young wife found a lodging in a "natty little place." It was a shelter constructed of tea trees and cloth, with the wife's black cloth cloak to curtain the doorway. It may have been a very good summer residence, but when the winter came, and the " rain descended, and the floods came, and the wind blew " tea-tree and cloth 80 THE BUILDERS' SOCIAL LIFE. were found wanting. The hut was flooded, and the wife fell ill. One who came to the colony in the early days and who published his reminiscences at " Home," thus describes the temporary settlement on the banks of the Torrens : " The huts were scattered about without any attempt at regularity or uniformity. Every man had built his house on the spot where whim or choice pointed out, or where material was easiest got ; the consequence was that a collection of as primitive looking wigwams a.s can well be imagined soon lined the banks of the Torrens some of them facing the east, some the west ; in fact, every point of the compass might have claimed one or more facing it. They stood just as though a mad bull had been playing his antics among them, and had tossed them hither and thither. Nor was the appear- ance of the dwellings less amusing or extraordinary than their general position. Most of them possessed an aperture to afford egress and ingress ; but few, if any, could boast of a window of any kind. A fire place was not deemed essential, though several had an opening at one end, surmounted by an empty pork cask, de- prived of the ends, to serve as a chimney. A great portion of the emigrants, however, contented themselves without a fire, except outside, where it might be seen blazing, with a pot hung over it " a la gypsy." An old colonist (J. W. Bull) says : " It was not an unusual thing, in hot or showery weather, to see a lady watching the kettle or camp oven under an umbrella." These privations were not without their advan- tages. They developed thrift, determination, self- reliance. The early settlers did not " run to the Govern- ment " when they wanted a bed or a new broom. Tra- dition says that there was a time when the Government Treasury contained but eighteenpence. The fugitive settlement on the banks of the Torrens in 1837 must have been picturesque. Every kind of material, from reeds to ticking, and cloth of all colors, THE BUILDERS' SOCIAL LIFE. 81 being used for the sides of the temporary dwellings. Here ' and there in the encampment that we have described there was some little attempt at order. It was only natural that emigrants who came out in the same ship would desire to pitch their tents or to build their huts together ; so, in the settlement on the banks of the Torrens, there was a " Buffalo Row " and a 4i Coromandel Row." Evidently the emigrants who had come by the Buffalo and the Coromandel had pitched their tents or built their houses in a line to- gether. " Buffalo Row " stood near the Adelaide Gaol, " Coromandel Row " a little eastward. It con- sisted of a few wooden cottages brought out in the Navarina. "Emigration Square" came later on the scene. Originally it was called " Forbes' Square." It was on the West Park Lands, not far distant from where the Observatory now stands. This is a historic spot that must not be lost sight of. Here a depot for emi- grants had been formed. An old lady who, as a buxom lass, came out in 1838 with Governor Gawler, described to the writer her experiences. The vessel dropped anchor in Holdfast Bay. They were conveyed to the beach in boats as far as depth of water would allow, and then were carried to the shore by the sailors. They travelled to Adelaide in a bullock dray. The dray stopped at Emigration Square. She spoke of the sense of humiliation she experienced, thinking that perhaps they might be located there. " It was like going to the Union." However, her fears were ground- less. The oxen moved on to North Adelaide, where the new arrivals found refuge in a pise house.* The depot at Emigration Square was certainly not a desirable place. Said one of the emigrants : '" How very inferior to what was promised at home are the comforts and attentions bestowed upon the newly '"Pise Houses," so named after the person who first built them. 82 THE BUILDEES' SOCIAL LIFE. landed emigrant. Brought from the discomforts of shipboard, he is lodged in a square of not exceeding ten feet, exposed to wind, heat, cold, in all their dangerous changes. And often into the same small square are crammed two families, destroying morality and causing misery and death. It is necessary that the authorities should go around that Augean stable, Emigration Square, and regulate the occupancies." Notwithstanding many discomforts there was much that was enjoyable about these far-off times. Every- thing was new. There was no snobbery. The settlers led a free, unconventional kind of life. Servants were difficult to get. Those who came out soon got mar- ried. Ladies had to do what is termed menial work. A pork barrel, end up, or a packing-case served as a table ; boxes and trunks did duty as seats ; rushes made a comfortable bed. Tin pannikins were used for tea. Ship's biscuit and salt pork was the staple food. Sometimes there was a welcome variety in the form of wallaby or native birds. Even baked snake and lizards were indulged in. Of vegetables and fruits there were few. Some of the immigrants pickled the leaves of the mesembryanthemum, or " pig's face," as the plant in South Australia is commonly called. The settlers had their social gatherings in tents and in huts. The red-letter days were the days when a letter was received from " Home," or an emigrant vessel came in. After a short time the " first-comers " were amused by seeing " new chums " marching up to the settlement with guns over their shoulders and pistols in their belts. Said one of the lady pioneers : " The few people here were like a happy family out for a lengthened picnic. . . . No person arriving now can form any idea of the life of the early settlers. It was sometimes very hard to forget all that we had left in the Old Country, and particularly friends, and to determine to make the best of our surroundings ; but all managed to put up with the roughness, and be contented. Happily there was scarcely any sickness in the population. No THE BUILDERS' SOCIAL LIFE. 83 false shame troubled us. If friends came in they were welcome. We might be ironing, cooking, or working at any menial occupation, and it made the occupation pleasanter to have a friend to chat to. The first wed- ding I attended was in winter. It being too muddy to walk, we went in a bullock dray. No one appeared to fear for the future, although, of course, no one could anticipate what the future might bring forth." Another of our pioneers who, as a young woman, came to the colony in 1836. writing to a friend in Eng- land in 1837, said : " You would smile if you were lo see the way in which we get on. We have two cups and saucers, which have been lent to us, and six plates, two spoons, and everything else in proportion. I flatter myself we shall make as good colonists as any one here : for we can all do a little of everything, and are all willing and united, and can be happy with a little ; although I shall certainly be glad when we get a little more settled, for at present it is not very comfortable. But you must not think that we are dissatisfied, for we are quite the reverse. We have had two cocks and hens given to us to begin our little farm with, and also a goose and gander, the two latter by the captain of the Coromandel. I feel as much at home here as if I had been here for years, and so independent. It is really quite delightful. . . . It is very picturesque here to see the different tents pitched about and the rush huts. I really think we ought to be thankful to the Almighty Who has brought us thus far in safety, and Who has conducted us to a land which answers everybody's expectations, and the soil of which is delight- ful: and we ought to demonstrate our gratitude to Him in making the best of everything, being cheerful and contented, assisting one another, and dwelling together in unity, peace, and concord. That such may be the case is my earnest prayer. ... I am at present, to use a genteel expression, ' Jack-of-all-trades,' first making pudding, then helping to eat it ; then writing for papa, then scolding the children, then putting my cottage in 84 THE BUILDERS' SOCIAL LIFE. order. In fact, I could fill a page with my different occupations." If the first emigrants were without many of the comforts and conveniences of life, and were surrounded by difficulties and dangers, they had a newspaper. It speaks well for the energy and enterprise of our pilgrim fathers that before they left the Old Land a paper was published in their interest. It was called " The South Australian Gazette and Colonial Register." The pro- prietor was Mr. Robert Thomas. He came out in the Africane in 1836, bringing a printing plant with him. The second number of his paper appeared in 1837. One of the most striking features about the paper was its independent and outspoken character. Provisions in the primitive settlement were scarce. To meet the wants of emigrants ten bullocks had been imported from the Cape of Good Hope. Ugly rumors were afloat. It was said that a Government official had allowed his two sons to have the pick out of the ten. It was also said that three other officials had been allowed to take their choice before the beef was made available for the settlers. One of the pilgrim fathers wrote to ; The South Australian Gazette and Colonial Register " to know what foundation there was for these rumors. Behold how great a matter a little fire kindleth ! The official under criticism lost his temper, and informed the editor that " he might find a more useful and in- teresting way of filling his columns than by criticising the actions of individuals." The editorial reply was : " As we did not come to South Australia to be schooled in the management of a newspaper, we trust he will pardon us if we continue the course that we have marked out for ourselves as the part befitting honest and inde- pendent journalists." Ere long there was strife in the little community. Some of the officials were so exas- perated .by editorial criticisms that a handbill was printed and circulated amongst the emigrants urging the establishment of another newspaper. In the opinion of these gentlemen " The South Australian Gazette and THE BUILDERS' SOCIAL LIFE. 85 Colonial Register " had " eminently failed." The re- joinder of the editor was : " We continue doggedly in our resolution to set our faces against all systems and degrees of jobbery, against puffing individuals, or re- cording flummery speeches and trashy compliments. We are as determined as ever to expose humbug wher- ever we find it ; to keep a sharp look-out after the doings of every jack-in-the-office ; to give the colonists the guarantee of publicity in all matters ; to protest against all secret transaction of public business ; to speak the truth, in short, and shame the devil." Ere long there was a libel case in the little colony a Govern- ment official v. the proprietor of " The South Aus- tralian Gazette and Colonial Register." After the settlers had been about eight months in the new land there came the intelligence of the death of King William IV. and the accession of Queen Victoria. Governor Hindmarsh, with the members of the Council, Magistrates, and many of the emigrants assembled in front of Government Hut. After a reference to the death of King William the royal proclamation was read, and an address was forwarded to the youthful Queen. Judging from some of the letters written home by the emigrants the majority seemed to be quite satisfied with their lot. Writing from his tent at Holdfast Bay, before Adelaide existed, John Brown, one of our worthy pioneers, after whom Brown-street is named, said : " The more we see of the colony the more our impres- sions in its favor are confirmed. There is abundance of good land everywhere, and the great drawback in other settlements the expense of clearing the ground does not exist. Many thousand acres are fit at once for the plough, and with a soil that will produce any- thing. I have dug for water close to my tent, and found two feet of rich black earth." 86 THE BUILDERS' SOCIAL LIFE. Another worthy old pioneer (George S. Kingston), writing in 1837, said : " A finer country was never seen than this eastern side of the Gulf of St. Vincent. . . . The climate is very fine, though the heat at present is extreme. It lias no injurious or debilitat- ing effect on the constitution. I am generally occupied from 6 a.m. to 3 p.m. without cessation, exposed to the heat of the sun, and weather of all kinds, and, though living entirely under camp, have not had a minute's illness since I landed." Another emigrant who came out in 1836 wrote as follows : " The town of Adelaide is on the eastern side .of the Gulf of St. Vincent. It is situated on a plain of great extent and fertility well timbered and watered. The hills are covered with a species of wood called stringybark, and of as much use, and as easy to work, as American pine. There are hundreds of thousands of acres of this timber, plenty of it within seven or eight miles of the town. If we had twenty thousand emi- grants every year for the next century there would be . enough for all. Vegetables of all kinds thrive delight- fully. In a few days the time for planting maize, or Indian corn, will arrive, and great success is expected in that cultivation. There is on the plain, of which Adelaide is the centre, food for fifty thousand head of cattle, and ten times that number of sheep. I have seen mutton exhibited at the butchers which would not have disgraced Leadenhall Market. Pigs and poultry thrive better than I ever saw them in the richest districts of Yorkshire or Westphalia. On our first settlement here we had a number of the dingo or Australian wild dog prowling about. In a year or two it is likely that we shall get rid of the animal. The kangaroo is in great abundance, and can be purchased at from ninepence to one shilling per pound. The black swan and wild duck in great variety ; quail, plover, cockatoos, and parrots abound. The harbor and gulf swarm with fish. Fresh beef, one shilling per pound for best joints ; mutton the same. Carpenters and sawyers get from THE BUILDERS' SOCIAL LIFE. 87 nine shillings and sixpence to ten shillings per day. Any man with one hundred ewes might realise an ample fortune on our unlimited ranges of healthy sheepwalk in five years. The industrious farmer should turn his attention to South Australia. Let him purchase one hundred acres of land, bring his ploughs and spade, and IAVO or three active sons, with two hundred pounds cash. He cannot fail to double his property within two years irom the day he lands. We recommend emigrants who wish to live in a fine country, where there is elbow room, and where industry is sure to be rewarded, to lose no time in shipping themselves and their children to South Australia. We want no idlers no drunkards but steady, sober men, not ashamed to live by the sweat of their brow." No wonder that there was a fascination for English folk about letters like these, especially when they were garnished, as they sometimes were, with references to blackfellows, kangaroos, and emus. Though there was much to interest in the new land, the settlers could not forget the old. One of them gave vent to his feelings in song : MY ADOPTED LAND. ''Thou art very fair, my adopted land, With thy dome of cloudless blue ; And I have found on thy distant strand Heart s that were warm and true ; But I love thee not with the feelings deep That I love the Isle where my fathers sleep. Thy birds, it is true, are of splendid wing, With tints that are gorgeously bright, But to most is denied the tuneful string Which falls on the ear with delight '^Neath the shady oaks that wave in the west. In the land far off the Isle I love best. Thou hast thy flowers of varying hue, Which upward raise their tiny head ; But my heart yearns over the one that grew In my childhood's small garden bed ; The lily of scarlet and gold bloomed there. The unrivalled queen of my own parterre. 1 ' 88 THE BUILDERS' SOCIAL LIFE. All the letters were not of the joyous character of those quoted. One of the early settlers wrote home aa follows : " Dear and Respected Friend We landed in Hold- fast Bay on March 24. I have not been able to get a job nor any hope of any. I am reduced to great dis- tress, provisions being enormously high bread three shillings a loaf ; potatoes, three shillings and sixpence a gallon ; beef and mutton, one shilling a pound ; butter,, three shillings and sixpence a pound ; cheese, two shillings a pound ; porter, one shilling and sixpence a quart. I have conversed with several who came out in the first ship, and they assure me that everything they have attempted has turned out a failure. How can anything grow in dust and sand and eternal drought ? There is not a river in the colony. Rents are twelve times as high as in England. A hovel, in which you would not put a good horse, 1 a week. Still, many persons say they are doing well ; but there is no bottom in the whole affair, and it is a cruel deception practised on the people of England. A cabin passenger of mine shot himself three weeks after his arrival." This is part of a signed letter which appeared in a Glasgow paper. Unfortunately for the writer, the editor of " The South Australian Gazette and Colonial Register " saw the letter, and the writer was glad to publicly qualify his statements. The editor of the London " Times " seemed to be constantly on the lookout for communications to the discredit of the colony. Some doleful letters appeared in the columns of the " Times " in 1840. One writer complained that the climate was not so healthy as had been reported. He had seen four or five funerals go to the cemetery every day, and a person was rarely to be seen more than fifty years of age. This scribe must surely have known that one of the stipulations in the colonization of South Australia was that emigrants had to be under thirty. He complained of " Immigration THE BUILDERS' SOCIAL LIFE. 89 Square." It was remarkable for its mentality. It waS no uncommon occurrence for seven or eight persons to die in the course of a week. The weather had been very hot, the thermometer being 102 or 112 in the shade. The wind was exceedingly high, and the dust raised by it penetrated every crevice. The River Torrens had become so small that a four-inch pipe would cany more water. The water was so full of animalculae that in hot weather it had to be used immediately. Fleas were a grevious nuisance ; they were supposed to breed in the dust, and to be carried into the houses in swaims whenever there was a gale of wind. Another nuisance was a troublesome blow-fly. The hot weather dried the bread to such an extent that it could only be eaten new. The beef never got tender, and vast quantities were thrown away because uneatable. If a sheep were killed it had to be cut up and eaten while still waim. This critic, whose contribution was honored by a place in the London "Times," must have arrived at the age when " the grasshopper was a burden." If all the pioneers had been such as he, where would have been our flourishing colony to-day ? There was another letter to which the editor of the '" Times " drew special attention. It was headed, " Miserable Condition of Australian Emigrants." Said the editor, " It shows the wretched condition of those unhappy creatures to whom this land of promise has been so niggardly in its performance." " It is quite distressing," said the writer of the letter, " to look around and see so many (once respectable and wealthy young men) with hardly a coat to put on, driving bul- locks, attending masons. They left their homes young, bringing with them all they had in the world. Some lost one way, some another." The writer goes on to affirm that the botanist had given up all hope of the colony. He had given his opinion that it was quite impossible to bring any European plant to perfection in South Australia. The potatoes were very bad. Corn, wheat, and barley would perhaps do very well for 90 THE BUILDERS' SOCIAL LIFE. the first one or two months, then the north winds, dust, and insects ruined them. There was plenty of money to be made, but every man was " snapping " for him- self, to get away from the place as soon as possible. The most profitable business was keeping a boarding- house. Ten pounds in England would go as far as fifty in South Australia. The town was a strange one ; just a wood, with a small house here and there in it. There were all sorts of people in Adelaide, from the Irishman to the African, and plenty of fleas and mos- quitoes. " I suppose," said the writer, " you are get- ting very favorable reports from some of the old in- habitants, who wish to invite their friends to come to this fairy isle, where, in summer time, you can scarcely get a drink of good water, with a burning sun all day long, the north wind as hot as fire, blowing the sand in clouds, enough to stifle you, and to burn the eyes out of your head." These criticisms remind the author of a passage in Pastor Finlayson's MS. journal. After referring to the Arcadian conditions of life when the first settlers landed, he says : " After a time things began to lose their extremely primitive form. The newcomers grumbled that they found matters so far behind. They grumbled about the huts they had to put up with, and the living also ; finding fault with everything. What pleased us, who had passed through the hardship of the first settlement, they looked upon with contempt. The romance had been mainly confined to the first eight months, when all were in a great measure on a struggling level." A lady coming up from Port Adelaide in 1840 was complaining of the high price of commodities in the new settlement. A gentleman began to question her as to .the evils of which she complained. " My good woman, what price do you pay for meat ?" " Oh, sir, it's verra dear. We pay about tenpence a pund for't." " And what would you pay for such meat in Glasgow ?" "Oh, we wadna pay mair than five- THE BUILDERS' SOCIAL, LIFE. 91 pence." " What wages had your husband in Glasgow^" " He used to get twa-and-twenty shillings a week." " And praj 7 , how much does he make here ?" " Oh, sir, he disna mak aboon thirteen shillings a day just noo." On July 23, 1837, the pioneers had a weird experi- ence. It was on a Sunday morning. There was a loud rumbling noise that lasted twenty seconds. The earth shook and trembled. It was an earthquake. The pilgrim fathers were alarmed. Were all their bright hopes to be shattered ? Had they come to a land of volcanoes and earthquakes. The natives were interviewed and questioned about the occurrence. Fortunately they could only remember two similar shocks many years before. A gala day in the experience of some of the early settlers was the first anniversary of the colony. About four o'clock in the afternoon of December 28. 1837, several of the pioneers assembled at the Court House and received Governor Hindmarsh in a most cordial manner. The chair was taken by the Judge (Henry Jickling). A dinner of " four courses and dessert " was served up by Host Lee, of the Southern Cross Hotel. 'Several toasts were proposed. Amongst others. " The Health of Governor Hindmarsh." In responding, the Governor said : " He attributed much of the cordiality of the day to the circumstance which he was sure they believed, and which, one day or another, would, in spite of misrepresentation, be the undisputed fact, namely, that he labored for the best interest of the province, without any selfish view whatever. In his situation as Governor he had duties to perform to Her Majesty and to the colonists, and he strove to do both to the best of his judgment. The dissensions which had unhappily arisen he trusted would be transitory ; at all events, they would not affect the progress of the settlement of our adopted country." " Three times three " were frequently indulged in, and, according to .an old print, " many excellent speeches were made." 92 THE BUILDERS' SOCIAL LIFE. " Coming events cast their shadows before." Some of the shadows are ominous. It was so in the experi- ence of the pioneers. The Governor's speech at the first anniversary of the colony was very suggestive. He spoke of " dissensions that had unhappily arisen." What these were other chapters will reveal. CHAPTER VII. THE FIRST OVERLAND TRIP. This was one of the most important events in the early history of South Australia. It was a bold under- taking, worthy of the best traditions of our race. Joseph Hawdon, with whom we have to deal, forced his way through the Australian bush. He passed over land that foot of white man had never trodden. Fortu- nately he kept a full journal of his experiences. Up to the present time that valuable journal has not been given to the public in permanent form. It is now possessed by Joseph Hawdon's nephew (F. Davison, Esq.), of Mount Gambier, who generously placed it in the hands of the author. Long before the settlement with which we are dealing was founded New South Wales had been dis- covered and colonised. It was discovered by Captain Cook, and colonised in 1778. The famous navigator could see some resemblance between the Australian coastline and the Welsh coast that he loved so well ; hence the peculiar name, " New South Wales." Sail- ing into Botany Bay, he said, " I once more hoisted the English colors, and, though I had already taken pos- session of several parts, I now took possession of the whole of the eastern coast in the right of His Majesty King George III., by the name of New South Wales, with all the bays, harbors, rivers, and islands situated upon it." Joseph Hawdon was a settler in New South Wales. He arrived in that colony in the brig Children in No- vember, 1834, having been induced to emigrate from the "Old Land through the favorable reports that had been furnished to him of the advantages for the investment 94 THE FIRST OVERLAND TRIP. of cattle in grazing pursuits. His brother, John 1 Hawdon, had been a settler some six years previous to this. In colonial parlance, Joseph Hawdon became a " squatter." He had heard of the new settlement on the coast of South Australia, and knew that the emi- grants would need meat. Here was a market if it could be reached. Joseph Hawdon was not only a bold man, but a man of enterprising spirit. He con- ceived the idea of trying to take a herd of cattle through the heart of the Australian bush to the little settlement on the banks of the Torrens. The idea seemed a Quixotic one. There was the danger of not being able to discover a route. The whole herd might perish in the bush. The herdsmen might die from want of water or at the hands of the blacks. It was one thing to penetrate into the interior and quite another thing to find a way out of the maze. Whether he perished or succeeded Joseph Hawdon resolved to make the at- tempt. Charles Bonney was anotlfer settler in New South Wales who will figure in this history. He was giving up sheep-farming, and Joseph Hawdon requested him to accompany him on his perilous mission. To this he readily consented. It was January 13, 1838, the hottest month in the Australian year. Joseph Hawdon selected a mob of cattle and chose his men. These were armed with carbines, pistols, and bayonets. A start was made- The second day of the journey was a terrible one. The Journal says : " About noon, the heat being most intense, we halted for an hour, but on attempting to- proceed the cattle would not move. The wind began to blow with great violence, and was perfectly hot. Mounting our horses, and driving the spare ones before us, we started in search of water. Our kangaroo dogs- began howling and could not be induced to follow. Fortunately, I was riding my favorite horse, which, in twenty minutes, carried me six miles, when I came to a water hole. Short as the ride was, the heat and violence THE FIRST OVERLAND TRIP. 95 of the gale made it truly dreadful. It was like riding through a furnace, and so intolerable was my thirst that if I had had to go half a mile further I certainly n.ust have fallen from my horse. In a quarter of an hour after my arrival Mr. Weatherall (one of the party) came up with a man, when we made some tea, and rested for two hours. The man went perfectly blind, owing, I presume to the intensity of the heat. We placed him in a hollow tree, the best place of shelter we could find, whilst Mr. Weatherall and I rode back to bring up the cattle. We found them in the position in which they had been left, with the exception of one, which, being too fat to bear the heat, had dropped dead. After giving the dogs a little water that we had brought with us in a tin vessel, Mr. Weatherall cut off a few steaks from the beast. ... It was now quite cool, with every appearance of a coming thunderstorm. W 7 e had arrived within a quarter of a mile of the waterhole, where we had left the blinded man, when a tremendous peal of thunder burst over our heads. The electric fluid passed along my head, causing me to feel as though struck with a heavy bludgeon. Two of the bullocks, within four yards of us, were killed on the spot, one of them standing stiff and dead some seconds before he fell. I exclaimed, " That beast is standing up after he is dead !" But. on looking round for Mr. Weatherall, I saw him supporting his head with his hands. He also had felt the shock, but more severely than myself. A second peal roared and crashed around us, killing another beast about fifteen yards from where I steed. To prevent the whole herd from being killed we gal- loped among them, to scatter them in various direc- tions. One fell, struck with the electric fluid, whilst I was on the point of striking it. We dismounted for the purpose of bleeding those that had fallen, and while so employed the tree under which I stood was shivered to pieces." This will give the English reader some idea of the severe thunderstorms that occasionally take place in Australia. The Journal continues : " The thunder continued rattling around us, resembling a 96 THE FIRST OVERLAND TRIP. constant firing of cannon, branches and limbs of trees falling in all directions. We remounted our horses (which stood trembling with terror), that we might better view the surrounding scene. Two hundred of the cattle had huddled closely together, each trying, under an instinctive sense of danger, to screen himself behind his neighbor ; the rest, in separate groups of thirty or fofty, were flying over the ground in the wildest state of alarm, now running towards us, then bounding away again, as each successive peal of thunder burst. Dur- ing this awful storm I could not help remarking that the Guardian Hand of Providence was with us, for, though surrounded by death in its most appalling terrors, we were kept unhurt, except the slight accident to my hand, which was lacerated either by the electric fluid or a splinter. When the storm subsided it was fearful to see the traces of its power left in all parts of the forest : the noblest trees shattered to fragments, or uprooted, and hurled prostrate on the ground." Collecting the cattle, while the rain fell in torrents, the party proceeded to the hollow tree, where the blinded man had been located, and found him " frightened almost to death." This was a somewhat ill-omened beginning to a three-months' journey through the unknown wilds of Australia. It was on January 22 that the travellers began the more serious part of their journey, entering upon en- tirely new country, hitherto untrodden by the foot of civilised man, distant from what is now called Mel- bourne by several miles. An interesting incident occurred on March 1. The travellers came to the junction of the Darling with the Murray. Here they saw a tree, on the trunk of which the words had been cut, " Dig under." They did so, and found a small bottle, which had been deposited there by an explorer (Major Mitchell), of New South Wales. In it there was a slip of paper dated " January THE FIRST OVERLAND TRIP. 97 3, 1836." The paper stated that from this point Major Mitchell had commenced his return journey from the Darling, that he was surrounded by hostile tribes, and was very anxious about the safety of his party. Joseph Hawdon took a copy of the paper, and again inserted it in the bottle, with a memorandum of his own stating that he had reached this spot in safety, and had a fair prospect of getting to the new settlement in South Australia. On March 2 they came into contact with a tribe of stout, powerfully-made blacks, about ICO men, with women and children behind them. This tribe was in no friendly mood. They desired neither collision nor communication with the mysterious whites, so they brandished their spears, and motioned with their hands to them to go away. Later on, in the same day, they met with another tribe, equal in number to the former, but more friendly in spirit. In spite of all threats and warnings they would close around the stockmen. The natives could not understand all the white party being men. One of them asked Joseph Hawdon, in all seriousness, if the cattle were the white men's wives ? This query caused such a hearty laugh from Hawdon and Bonney that the questioner, an old native, turned away apparently ashamed of his blunder. This tribe began to get too familiar. One raised his spear to throw at the leader of the party when his back was turned. Fortunately the spear never left his hand, or blood would have been shed. The cattle took the matter in hand. The blacks gathered round them in such numbers that they became infuriated. They wheeled about among the natives, and two of the beasts charged them right and left. It was the great agility of the blacks that prevented them from being gored. No doubt much to the relief of the party this tribe took its departure. One noteworthy feature in the trip was this, that, although the travellers passed through so many tribes 98 THE FIRST OVERLAND TRIP. of blacks, the cattle never became accustomed to them. On each approach of a new tribe the beasts were so agitated as to be almost unmanageable. Long before the cattle could see the natives they were aware of their approach, evidently by the sense of smell. They would loudly snort, and carry their heads erect in the air. Further on they saw another tribe, sitting on the brow of a hill, in rows, one above the other. The last party were painted with white stripes ; these with red. In his Journal Joseph Hawdon says : "At first I sus- pected there was some mischief brewing from our having seen so many natives within the last two hours ; but I soon perceived, to my satisfaction, that the upper lines consisted of women and children. When we got oppo- site to them about forty of the men came after us without their spears, led by a fine old chief, and evidently desirous of being on friendly terms with us. Most of them followed us to the place where we encamped. Their chief was one of the most sensible men I ever met among the savages of New Holland, and appeared to have his men in great order, and perfectly under hi& command. He was anxious to have the use of every- thing explained. It was a long time before he could be made to comprehend how it was that the wheels of the dray were able to pass round. I gave him an iron tomahawk, with which he was delighted. Taking my hand, he placed it on his breast, and, pointing to a little boy, his son, gradually raising his hand above the boy's head to the height of a man's stature, he, by these signs, gave me to understand that he would keep the tomahawk for him. . . . The old man went out with me to shoot ducks, while his people went to catch fish for their supper. Fish is the principal article of food, and they procure it in great abundance." On bidding farewell to this tribe, the old chief sent forward two of his men to act as ambassadors to an- nounce the coming of the whites to the tribe in advance. On March 4 the travellers discovered a beautiful lake, about thirty or forty miles in circumference, with THE FIRST OVERLAND TRIP. 99' a line of gum-trees round its edge. Previous to this some of the country passed through had been very un- interesting. This was a delightful change. The bed of the lake was composed of white clay, the water was deliciously cool, and not a reed growing in it. The air was filled with perfume from the herbs and flowers that grew on the margin of the lake. As Joseph Hawdon was the first white man to discover this body of water it was his right to give it a name. Like a loyal Briton he named it Lake Victoria, in honor of the youthful Queen, who had recently ascended the throne. " Each of the party testified his loyal respect by drinking Her Majesty's health, following the toast with loud and hearty huzzas." This was perhaps the first time that Her Majesty's health had been drunk so many hundreds of miles from the haunts of civilised life. Later on Joseph Hawdon came to another pietty scene. It was a typical Australian picture. He says : " I saw, in the valley immediately beneath me. a tribe of aborigines seated on a beautiful plot of moss, by the river side, eating roasted tortoise and broiled fish. They appeared to be a perfect group of content and happiness." It was a picture of man in his primitive simplicity. Probably not one of them had ever seen a white, little did the tribe anticipate the close proximity of such mysterious visitants. After watching them for a time Joseph Hawdon gave a loud " Tally-ho !" The effect was electric. Roasted tortoise and broiled fish tasty as it was was forgotten. They all tuined round with amazement. Probably thinking that the rider and the horse were some supernatural existences, the young natives commenced to dance, waving their arms wildly in the air. An old withered-looking hag came forward, making a noise, without using any language whatever, only a senseless gibberish. Two of the men came up the bank out of the valley. They were shown the clouds of dust in the distance caused by the travel- ling cattle, horses, and drays. What could this mysterious invasion mean ? Needless to say, the blacks were dreadfullv alarmed. 100 THE FIRST OVERLAND TRIP. Just here the leader of the party almost lost his life. Let him tell the story in his own words : " Having singled out a fat bullock, with the view of having it slaughtered for the use of the party, I fired a ball at him, which entered near his eye ; but the shot, not having the effect of bringing him down, he made a rush to the river, two of my men seizing hold of his tail to keep him back. Another man was standing close by the river bank, in the direct line the bullock was taking. Seeing the danger the man was in I also seized hold of the bullock's tail for the purpose of checking his course; but the man, suddenly perceiving his own danger, snatched a horse pistol out of his belt, and fired at the bullock's head. The ball missed the beast, and grazed along my own breast. I at first thought, from the sensation I felt, that I was shot through, but. though the pain continued rather severe for some time, the injury was not serious. I had, however, a hair's- breaclth escape of my life. The whole of this scene was witnessed by a tribe of about fifteen blacks, who sat watching our proceedings with intense interest, and. ap- parently, with much terror." Occasionally the journey was diversified by a kangaroo or an emu hunt. Joseph Hawdon rede a magnificent horse, one of the fleetest he had ever mounted. Out alone one day he saw a large kangaroo bounding over the plain. " Rob Roy " was soon wildly careering after the animal, but, fast as he could gallop, he could not overtake the kangaroo. After a few miles' gallop the rider gave up the chase. Parched with thirst, he made for the Murray, and, leaving his horse and firearms a little distance away, he descended into the bed of the river for a " draught of its delicious water." Having satiated his thirst, and risen from the ground, he was surprised and alarmed to see five blacks standing on the bank, leaning on their spears, not fifteen yards away. " Not liking the indication of their serious counsel," he commenced to dance. It appears that anything ludicrous in its nature would always take the THE FIRST OVERLAND TRIP. 101 blacks' fancy. " A little merriment would, at any time, drive all hostility from their minds." In this way the traveller once more got possession of his firearms,, and. mounting his horse, he made him bound towards the blacks, who soon dispersed. It was dark before Joseph Hawdon got back to the camp. He found Charles Bonney giving the natives- a treat. He was down at the river side, with about forty blacks around him, giving them some tunes on the- flute. It was a new experience to the natives, and cne that they much appreciated. " The finest looking men " were always the most deeply interested in the sound of music. On March 12 the party came to another fine lake. It was about thirty miles in circumference. Seme- distance away, on the margin of the lake, seme blacks were encamped. The coming of the whites had been noticed, and there was great excitement in the wurlies of the blacks. On the bosom of the lake ducks were floating in thousands. It was a beautiful moonlight night, and some of the party strolled down to the edge of the lake to do some shooting. Never, since creation, had the stillness of the air been broken by the sound of a musket. " Bang !" went the guns. The report rolled over the water with such effect that cne " could suppcse a hundred shots had been fired at the ?ame moment." Soon the lake was perfectly alive with myriads of wild fowl in motion on its surface, screaming and cackling with alarm at the novel sounds. Later on, overhead, they heard the wild, sweet, musical note of the swans as- they returned to rest upon the bosom of the lake. As the party lay by the side of the lake, drinking in the beautiful moonlight scene, they could hear the noises made by a tribe of natives "disputing with much emotion this extraordinary inroad upon their territory." The native name for the lake was Nookamka. As Joseph Hawdon was its discoverer, he named it " Lake Bonney," after his friend and fellow-traveller, Charles 102 THE FIRST OVERLAND TRIP. Bonney, " whose company contributed so much to the pleasure of the expedition." They came into contact with another tribe of natives. The Journal says : " After a good deal of ceremony the natives were induced to approach our tent. I counted in all one hundred and sixty. They informed us that most of their men had gone to a fight ,at a lake in the northward. They afforded us a good -deal of amusement during our halt. Our dogs did not like to see so much familiarity between us and the blacks. They did not interfere so long as the natives kept a respectful distance. Whenever one of the tribe laid his hands upon a single article belonging to us one or another of our canine friends would be sure to catch him by the heels, and when the fellow, on recovering himself, lifted up his spear, and in his rage endeavored to kill the dog, two or three of his companions would promptly interfere, and hold his arms until his passion had cooled down." The travellers were now approaching the elbow of the River Murray. Here they were delighted to find traces of the former presence of Europeans. There were footprints of horses, the mark of a man's shoe, and evidences of horses being tethered. Some of the blacks, by signs, gave the party to understand that four men on horses had visited the place. They proved to be four settlers from the little encampment on the banks of the Torrens, who had been out in search of the Murray. On March 23 Joseph Hawdon and party left the River Murray. After travelling many miles, through some very rough country, they came to the vicinity of Mount Barker. The Journal says : " We halted to dine on a creek of excellent water, with most luxurious grass growing in the valley. This creek is immediately on the west side of Mount Barker, to the top of which I rode, and had a most magnificent view of the beautiful country around. The full extent of Lake Alexandrina lay before me, at a distance of about twenty miles. THE FIRST OVERLAND TRIP. 103 The country around consists of land of the best descrip- tion, and was covered with most luxuriant grass. The scenery was beautiful, the open plains being skirted with a thin forest of large gum-trees, clothed in their silvery bark, and not a decayed branch to be seen on one of them. Keeping a westerly course, we crossed a high range, and again descended into a valley well watered and richly grassed. . . . We now com- menced our ascent up one of the steepest and most scrubby mountains that ever drays passed over ; and, having accomplished the Herculean task, and kept along the leading ridge of the range, to its south-west termina- tion, St. Vincent's Gulf suddenly lay open to our view, appearing close underneath, although its distance was at least fifteen miles. This was truly a sight to be enjoyed, for here the labors of our journey were over, and the possibility of travelling by land from one coast to the other was clearly established." On April 1 the part}*- encamped "in an open and well-grassed country, on a stream called by the natives Onkaparinga. Kangaroos were here in great abund- ance ; some of the large ones would weigh one hundred and fifty pounds." The travellers kept too far west, and missed the more direct route to the settlement in Adelaide. They came out of the ranges somewhere near where the town- ship of Noarlunga now stands. Riding to the seashore the leader of the party saw the fresh tracks of horses. What could these mean ? Nowhere could be seen any other evidences of civilization. Following these tracks they came to a tent and a hut. Here they found three young emigrants, just commencing a settler's life. Meat was scarce among the little community in Adelaide. These young men had gone into the bush (now covered with farms and gardens) to shoot kangaroos, with which to supply the Adelaide market. The flesh of the kangaroos realised one shilling per pound. At the advent of Joseph Hawdon and party the young kangaroo hunters were almost as much astonished 104 THE FIRST OVERLAND TRIP. as though they had witnessed a resurrection. How- ever, when told that the travellers had come " across the vast wilderness of the interior," they showed them " every possible attention and hospitality." They were now fifteen miles south of Adelaide. The next evening Joseph Hawdon (with one of the kangaroo-hunters as a guide) started for Adelaide. About an hour after dark he entered the infant settle- ment, and once more enjoyed some of the comforts of civilization. He was invited to spend an evening Math Governor Hindmarsh, who was delighted at the success of the expedition, demonstrating, as it did. the possi- bility of bringing cattle overland from the older settle- ment of New South Wales. The pioneers kept up the old English custom of, feasting and drinking. To commemorate the success- ful issue of Mr. Hawdon's overland trip a public dinner- was given to him. About ninety gentlemen weie pre- sent. James Hurtle Fisher presided, and presented Mr. Hawdon with a snuffbox. An ox, chosen from Mr. Hawdon's herd, was roasted whole for the entertainment of all comers. So ended the first overland trip, that will ever be memorable in our country's annals. Mr. Charles Bonney, second in command of this bold expedition, deserves honorable mention. He was born in 1813, near Stafford, in England. His father was a Church of England clergyman. Young Bonney left the Old Land to seek adventure in Terra Australis. Writing of the trip that we have described, some years afterwards, Mr. Bonney said : " Adelaide was then a collection of rude huts, with a few more substantial buildings in course of erection. The people were sur- prised and delighted at the arrival of a herd of cattle overland. Up to this time they had been living almost exclusively upon kangaroo flesh." JOSEPH HAWDON. THE FIRST OVERLAND TRIP. 105 ]Mr. Bonney returned to New South Wales and undertook to lead a second expedition for Mr. Hawdon from New South Wales to South Australia. The party started in February, 1839, with 300 cattle, several horses, and two bullock drays. In addition to the leader, there were nine Europeans and two aborigines. This party came out at Lacepede Bay, many miles to the south of the new South Australian settlement. They opened up a lot of new country, and named Lake Hawdon, Mount Muirhead, and Mount Benson, in the south-eastern portion of South Australia. Water at times being scarce, and the weather terribly hot, the trip was ex- hausting. On one occasion the party had to kill a calf, and drink its blood to assuage their thirst. Mr. Bonney rose to positions of distinction in South Australia, and finally received a pension from the Government. He then removed to New South Wales. For three years before his death he was blind, and for two years bedridden. He died on March 15, 1897, in the eighty-fourth year of his age. Lake Bonney bears his name. CHAPTER VIII. POLITICAL AND FINANCIAL REVERSES. To the young colony the dark figure of dissension came. It appeared in official circles. There were dis- putes between Governor Hindmarsh and Colonel Light over the city site. In a previous chapter we stated that the interests of the colony were vested in Commis- sioners appointed by the British Government. One of these was sent out as " Resident Commissioner." This dual arrangement a Resident Commissioner and a Governor, both invested with special powers did not succeed. It led to divided authority. They came into conflict. The Resident Commissioner claimed the right of naming places within the colony independently of the Governor. There was some - wrangling over naming the streets and squares of the city.* Other officials besides the Governor and Resident Commis- sioner quarrelled. There was a street brawl between the Colonial Secretary (Robert Gouger) and the Colonial Treasurer (Osmond Gilles). There was a squabble between the Governor and John Brown, the Emigration Agent. The latter was requested by the Governor to see that the body of a destitute emigrant was buried. The Emigration Agent demurred. He conceived that his duty was to attend to the needs of the living emi- *The committee who named the streets and squares of Adelaide consisted of Governor Hindmarsh, the Judge (Sir John Jeffcott), Robert Gouger, James Hurtle Fisher, John Barton Hack, John Morphett, Edward Stephens, T. B. Stran?- ways, Thomas Gilbert, John Brown, and Osmond Gilleu. The South Australian reader will see a connection between the names of some of the streets and the persons who formed the committee: Hindmarsh-square, Hurtle-square, JofC- cott, Gouger, Morphett, Gilbert, Brown, and Gilles streets, Strangways-terrace, and Barton-terrace. POLITICAL AND FINANCIAL REVERSES. 107 grants, not the dead ones. The Governor suspended him. The Resident Commissioner (James Hurtle Fisher), assuming that the Emigration Agent was under his jurisdiction, published and placarded a handbill stating that John Brown (who promised to be as famous .as the American abolitionist) still retained his office. The pioneer school master (John Banks Shepherd- son) has left on record a statement that throws light on these early days. After describing his arrival by the Hartley, in 1837, he says : " In accordance with my instructions, I got up a public meeting in a temporary erection which then did duty as Trinity Church, and the Governor, at my request, promised to take the chair. On the night appointed I proceeded to Government House to accompany His Excellency to the meeting, but on learning from me on our way down that James Hurtle Fisher, Charles Mann, and other of their friends were to take part in the proceedings (the establishment -of a day-school) he declined to enter the place. After using all the persuasion of which I was capable he at length gave way, adding : " Well, as Governor I sup- pose I must countenance the thing, but as Jack Hind- marsh I'll do little." In these disputes Robert Gouger, whose temper was perhaps a little warm, suffered severely. In pre- paring the plans, and laying the foundations of the vines and spirits ; and publicans* and auctioneers' licences. The editor of the pioneer press stated that during the first year only of Governor Gawler's administration the revenue from these sources produced nearly 18,000. Not only were all the re- sources at the hands of the Governor exhausted, but there was an additional expenditure exceeding 200,000- On August 26th, 1840, the Commissioners in Eng- land wrote a letter to the Secretary of State for the Colonies (Lord John Russell) explaining the position. . Referring to Governor Gawler they said : " That officer, we understand, has always borne a high character. In his government he appears to have displayed many qualities deserving of great respect. He has shown, in 118 POLITICAL AND FINANCIAL REVERSES. trying circumstances, both firmness and moderation. He put an end to dissensions, which, previous to his arrival, had distracted the colony. There are many other indications of his possessing a faculty of exercising a beneficial influence over the public mind. We cannot doubt that he has been animated with a sincere desire to improve the organization of the public departments. All these merits we gladly concede to Colonel Gawler. But upon subjects of finance he appears to us to have totally erred in judgment. There is one other personal topic to which we must still more reluctantly allude. It is a very painful one. When the new Commis- sioners* entered upon their duties South Australia enjoyed the reputation of being one of the most flourish- ing of recent British settlements. Almost within six months afterwards it devolves on us to exhibit the colony in a state of crisis, and to show the probable defeat of that experiment of self-support which has been watched by numerous persons with so much interest, and so many good wishes. It is beyond all dispute that this un- happy change can in no way be traced to any act or influence of the new Board." The Commissioners asked that the Government would afford them guidance and support in the difficulty in which they found them- selves. They asked for immediate directions as to the course they should pursue in relation to the bills which had been drawn upon them. They were afraid that all the funds at their disposal would be exhausted. Lord John Russell's reply was that as soon as Par- liament met the Government would try to appoint a committee of enquiry into the state and prospects of the finances of South Australia, and the proper course to be taken in the direction of relieving necessities. *At the beginning of 1840 a new commission for South Australia was appointed by the British Government. The first Commissioners, who, with one exception, had served gratuitously were set aside. Three salaried Commissioners -.vere now appointed Colonel Torrens (Chairman), T. P. Elliot, .and K. Villicrs POLITICAL AND FINANCIAL REVERSES. 119 In the meantime he suggested that holders of the bills should be informed that they could not be accepted, and that no pledge could be given for the future accept- ance or payment of them, and that the most peremptory instructions should be given to Governor Gawler re- quiring him to confine the public expenditure within the limits of the local revenue. This could not be considered satisfactory. Re- pudiation of debts would tend to wreck the colony. The Commissioners made further representations to the British Government. It was necessary that something should be done immediately, before Parliament met. The Government then consented to guarantee a loan of 120,000 till Parliament could meet. Even with the Government guarantee the loan could not be negotiated. The credit of the colony was gone. The Government then refused to take any more steps without the consent of Parliament. The total indebtedness of the colony was 294,000, made up as follows : Due to persons in England, 56,000; dishonored bills, 97,000; due to Emigration Fund (money taken from the fund to meet liabilities), 56,000; public' debt of the colony (part of the 200,000 that the Commissioners were authorised by the Act to borrow), 85,000 294,000. These figures were taken by the writer from Parliamentary Papers to which he had access in the Old Country. They were supplied by one of the Commissioners to the Parliamentary Select Com- mittee which sat upon South Australian affairs in 1841. In 1841 intelligence was conveyed to the colony that Governor Gawler's unauthorised bills had been dishonored by the Commissioners in England. Ruin stared the colony in the face. Its financial credit was gone. Colonists and capitalists were deterred from coming to its shores. There was general bankruptcy and great distress. One of our pioneer builders (Sir Henry Avers), who was in the colony at the time, speak- ing many years afterwards, said : " The privation of the settlers was severe, and everything seemed to be at 120 POLITICAL AND FINANCIAL REVERSES. its lowest. The loss of capital incurred in founding the colony cannot be estimated: but it must have been very considerable, inasmuch as nearly all those engaged in the importation and distribution of merchandise, with many others, were ruined." The Commissioners in England cast the responsi- bility for the disaster upon the Governor. The latter pleaded the peculiar exigencies of his position, and the permission given to him by the Commissioners to make special draughts upon them in cases of emergency. In his defence addressed to Lord John Russell he said : " I considered it ' emergency ' when the Survey Depart- ment could not keep nearly up to the demand, when the police was not sufficient to repress bushrangers and other lawless characters, to control the natives, and to check contraband trade; ' emergency ' when public officers of value were leaving their situations on account of the insufficiency of their salaries, and were trading and really plundering the Government on what they called authorised principle; ' emergency ' when the Survey and Land Offices were burned down, and there was not a public office belonging to the Government in Adelaide, and none of reasonable permanent useful- ness to be hired; ' emergency ' when, with an increasing pressure of business and harassment of all kinds upon me. I. my wife and family, Secretary, office, and ser- vants, were limited during the day to a mud cottage 50 ft. by 27 ft.; and ' emergency ' when, with a really beau- tiful natural port, commerce was suffering almost in- describable hindrances from the difficulties of landing in a broad mangrove swamp. Many others couid be justly enumerated; but these (in addition to immigrant sick- ness and destitution) are the great and leading objects which have been to my fullest conviction ' emergencies,' and which have absorbed the greater part of the extra- ordinary expenditure." Governor Gawler was recalled. His expendituie had indeed been lavish. Take, for example, the build- ing of the Adelaide Gaol. Of this Sir Heniy Ayeit- GOVERNOR GAWLER. POLITICAL AND FINANCIAL REVERSES. 121 said : " The one I found on ray arrival was certainly not adapted to the end in view the safe-keeping of prisoners. It consisted of a tent, with an airing ground in front, enclosed with a rope, around which one or two turnkeys patrolled, armed with a Brown Bess musket. But while it will be acknowledged that this accommoda- tion was altogether inadequate for the purpose, there \vas no need why the other extreme should have been adopted. High walls and strong doors were doubtless necessary, but no angle towers, surmounted with cut- stone embattlements, the stone alone costing 42s. per cube foot to work, while for other services artisans were paid from 3 18s. to 4 4s. per week, and the cost gener- ally was greatly enhanced from the high price of labor and unforeseen contingencies, that it brought ruin upon a most respectable firm of contractors, and involved the colony in debt for years afterwards." But posterity must be charitable. The difficulties of Governor Gawler's position, as we have pointed out. were great. The founding of South Australia was quite an experiment in colonization on the Wakefield system, and the governing powers were the other side of the world. To a certain extent Governor Gawler was the victim of circumstances. Immigration (especially of persons without capital) was too fast; and the new settlers, without means, needed work. Public improve- ments were urgently required. Governor Gawler had great faith in the resources of the colony, and he boldly launched out, trusting to a future development to meet the liabilities incurred. When the stress was most severe he believed that, if he had a free hand, he could steer through the storm. It was not safe legislation, it is true; but the money was not recklessly thrown away. The improvements made were not temporary, but sub- stantial. He built not merely for the present, but for the future. Perhaps the larger outlay at the beginning in the long run was the wiser and cheaper. In nation- building, as well as in domestic affairs, it is possible to be " penny wise and pounds foolish." He was an able 122 POLITICAL AND FINANCIAL REVERSES. and energetic officer; a Christian man, who set a high ideal before the early settlers, and who himself strove to give practical expression to the same. He was beloved by the people, who, out of their diminished resources, presented him with 500 as an expression of their esteem. Such was his regard for the colony, and faith in its ultimate prosperity, that he left the sum to be invested in land on his own account. Of Governor Gawler, David McLaren, of whom we shall have to speak, said : " One of the best of men, one of the most upright, conscientious and intelligent public men I have ever had the honor of meeting." The spirit in which Governor Gawler labored in building up the young Commonwealth is to be seen in one of his farewell addresses. The descendants of the pioneers to-day should lay his wise words to heart. The truth that they symbolise lies at the foundation of national stability and prosperity. The pioneer Methodists had presented to him a farewell address. Replying to the deputation, amongst other things he said : " I most sincerely pray that God, in His faithful- ness arid power, may preserve and extend the pure and simple doctrines of His Word among yourselves and every denomination in South Australia, knowing, as I do, that there is no other permanent foundation for individual or public prosperity. The harmony that has hitherto existed among the Christian bodies of this colony has been a most pleasing subject of contemplation. I sincerely pray also that this may long continue, and that men who hold the sound doctrines of the Gospel, without being loose to forms, may keep them in their proper places as shadows, and not the substance of reli- gion, and exercise forbearance in regard to those who, in these things, differ from them. If I were to leave a parting sentence to such men of all denominations it should be See that ye fall not out by the way. As long as sound Christian doctrines are extensively known and practised, and harmony among those who hold them POLITICAL AND FINANCIAL REVERSES. 123 Is maintained, there will be no reason to fear for South Australia." The aborigines keenly felt his departure. Through their missionaries (C. G. Teichelmann and S. G. Close, with their Protector. Dr. M. Moorhouse) they presented him with the following address : Us, the chest beats at his absence. Our com- mander, he did sit; on his side we did sit. For us he did contend. He us did hide from the white men who insulted. Lament we at his absence. He at us well did look. Our father he did sit; regarding food, meat, clothing. Food, clothing, he us did give. Land for food he gave us back. Schoolhouse he for the children of us did build. Words to learn as white children. The address was written in the native tongue, the above being a translation. On June 22, 1841, a farewell meeting was held at Government House. James Hurtle Fisher presented an address to Governor Gawler. He spoke of " the unfeigned gratification " that the Governor must feel to see " his efforts for the advancement of the province so highly appreciated by an intelligent, thinking, and influential community. ' ' In reply Colonel Gawler spoke of the pain that it gave him to leave the colony in such an unsettled condition. He hoped that agriculture and sound commercial pursuits would take the place of speculation, and urged the colonists to stand by the principles revealed in the Bible as a sure basis in times of prosperity and adversity. After the company had dispersed a number of gentlemen .on horseback accom- panied the Governor and his family to Port Adelaide, where a final farewell was spoken. Governor Gawler took a great interest in explora- tion, not only aiding others in the work, but taking part in it himself. It was during his administration that Edward J. Eyre set out to perform one of the most heroic tasks in the annals of history, to which, in com- ing pages, we shall refer. One of Governor Gawler's 124 POLITICAL AND FINANCIAL REVERSES. exploring trips had a sad and tragic ending. In com- pany with Captain Sturt, Mr. Henry Inman (Commis- sioner of Police), and a young man named Bryan a visitor at Government House the Governor went to visit the North-West Bend of the Murray. From this point the party set out to explore the country in a northerly direction. The weather was hot and oppres- sive, and the water supply exhausted. The horses had been two days and a-half without a drink. The party were now about sixty miles from their camp on the Murray. The Governor suggested that he himself should get back to the camp as soon as possible, and send a supply of water to the remainder of the party. Captain Sturt advised him not to go alone, but to take Mr. Bryan with him in case of accident. These two, with thirsty and tired horses, started for the camp. Before they reached it the Governor's horse was spent. Mr. Bryan suggested an exchange of horses, so that the Governor might push on alone and send back the neces- sary relief. With great difficulty and in a state of exhaustion, Colonel Gawler reached the river. Captain Sturt and Mr. Inman also succeeded in doing so, having killed a horse and drank its blood to quench their thirst. But Mr. Bryan came not. The Governor sent out search parties from the camp, offering a reward of 50 to any one who would find him; but neither horse nor rider could be found. No doubt the young fellow had become confused, lost his bearings, taken a wrong course, and perished in the Australian bush. His fate is a sealed mystery; but many years after the horse was. found. It was Governor Gawler who called into existence a mounted police force that did splendid service. Prior to his arrival the colony was drifting into anarchy. Internal strife, and the influx of bad characters from penal settlements, jeopardised society. The mounted police force that Governor Gawler created consisted of some of the bravest men and best riders that ever sat in a saddle. In passing we may mention Inspectors POLITICAL AND FINANCIAL REVERSES. 125 Inman and Tolmer and Sergeant-Major Alford. They checkmated the bushrangers and cattle-raiders, and taught the blacks to respect the lives and property of the early settlers. It was during Governor Gawler's time that the first steamer arrived from London, the " Courier." He died in May, 1869, aged seventy-three years. His name is perpetuated in the large and flourishing town of Gawler, that seems to have inherited his energetic and enter- prising spirit. CHAPTER IX. SOCIAL REVERSES AND SUCCESSES. In addition to financial reverses there were many otner burdens that the pioneers had to bear. In the building up of a strong and vigorous nation adversity seems to be a necessity. An old book says " that no chastening for the present seemeth to be joyous but grievous; nevertheless, afterward, it yieldeth the peace- able fruit of righteousness to them who are exercised thereby." There is a social and general as well as spiritual and individual application of this principle. Adverse circumstances furnish discipline; they develop thrift, caution, energy, determination, and self-reliance. Nations as well as individuals have more to fear in times of great prosperity than in seasons of adversity. Perhaps this is the most fitting place in which to speak a word of Avarning, especially as Australian Federa- tion is now an accomplished fact. It is a great nation that we desire to see in these southern lands, and such a consummation is only to be realised by individual effort. Visionaries may conceive ideals; Senators may pass laws; the strong arm of the law may compel changes in the social system; but neither of these nor all combined can make a nation determined, energetic, masculine, and self-reliant. It is individual character that constitutes and conditions national character. One of the most effective ways of teaching a lad to swim is to put him in deep water and let him struggle to keep himself afloat; so to develop what is best in men in a psychologi- cal sense it is necessary to cast them upon their own resources let them boldly grapple with difficulties and contend with adverse circumstances. It is just here that Governments are in danger of making a mistake. SOCIAL REVERSES AND SUCCESSES. 127 It is possible to so pamper and coddle a people as to take the backbone out of them. With the humanitarian spirit that is abroad to-day the author is in full sympathy. In many directions there is urgent need for reforms. Monopolies that enrich a few at the expense of many must be broken down. Property in land must become as widely diffused as is consistent with a comfortable living. Wealth must pay its fair share to the revenue. But men must not be taught to depend upon the State as a lame man does upon crutches. It must not be regarded as a kind of wet-nurse, from whose prolific breasts the improvident and lazy may draw. Henry George has truly said that it is natural to man to seek to satisfy his wants with the least exertion. The State must not encourage this tendency. The highest type of national manhood can only be attained by individual effort. Legislation that has a tendency to relax individual effort will have Of relaxing tendency all round; it will lead to national emasculation. Human nature is fearfully and wonder- fully made it needs discipline. The ideal that some social reformers have set before them that of giving to every person " an easy and comfortable living " if realised might be one of the greatest disasters that ever befell humanity. Where there is little effort no battles to fight, no foes to conquer, no difficulties to sur- mount there will often be mental, moral, and material stagnation. It was grappling with difficulties contending with adverse circumstances that made our pioneer fathers and mothers the men and women they were. Look at some of the difficulties they had to face. They came to a wilderness. Before their advent cosmic forces held undisputed sway. The South Australian black- fellow had no genius for cultivation. He never dis- turbed the earth unless it were to search (as the rabbit does) for native roots that were edible. Why should he trouble to clear the forest or to till the ground ? The country abounded with game. The River Murray 128 SOCIAL REVERSES AND SUCCESSES. and the ocean that lapped the shore teemed with fish. At almost any hour of the day he could take spear, boomerang, or net and secure abundance of food for his lubras and piccaninnies. He simply ate, hunted, and slept, and had little more idea of agriculture than the kangaroo. Vast tracts of land were covered with dense scrub and primeval forests. These had to be cleared before they could be put under the spade or plough of the pioneers. The means of transit were slow and very defective. Nature was not always propitious. Water in many places was scarce. Tt was difficult sometimes to get laborers. One of oar old pioneers (Dr. Everard), who came out the year the colony was founded, and who became a member of the first Parliament, writing to a relative in England in 1837, said : " I have ten acres in the town I am now (with William's assistance only), felling and grubbing up the trees upon one acre preparatory to building my town house. I have lost my laborer. He would not work for me longer, although I had agreed to give him twelve shillings per week. ... In England he did not earn, on an average, more than six shillings per week, and did not taste meat from one week's end to the other; but here he got meat even- day, and less than a bottle of rum per day was not enough for him. Honest, sober, industrious laborers are much wanted here." All over the colony the natives were treacherous; but the more warlike and dangerous were the tribes along the River Murray. Many of them were fine big men bold and vigorous. Both to the north and south-east of the new settlement the natives had a Conception of the supernatural. No doubt the famous " corrobery " was originally a religious festival. Take the Narrinyeri tribe of natives, who were located in the South-East, more especially round the lower part of the River Murray. Of these the Rev. George Taplin said : " They call the Supreme Being by two names Nurun- dere and Martummere. He is said to have made all SOCIAL REVERSES AND SUCCESSES. 129 things on the earth, and to have given to men the \veapons of war and hunting. Nurundere established all the rights and ceremonies which were practised by the aborigines, whether connected with life or death. On enquiring why they adhere to any custom the reply is, ' Because Nurundere commanded it.' ' The Nar- rinyeri tribe had some conception of an after life. The Rev. H. E. A. Meyer, who labored amongst them in the very early days, has left on record one of their legends. " Nurunduri* removed with his children to a great distance towards the west, where he still lives, a very old man. When he went away one of his children was asleep, and, in consequence, left behind. Nurunduri, when he arrived at the place at which he intended to re- main, missed him, and. making fast one end'of a string to his maralengk. he threw the other end towards where he supposed his son to be, who, catching hold of it, helped himself along to his father. This line is still the guide by which the dead find their way to Nurunduri. Old people become young and the infirm sound, in the presence of Nurunduri." The Narrinyeri tribe had their rain and disease- makers, and were pronounced believers in sorcery. Disease A\as generally regarded as the effect of sorcery. The} 7 had peculiar marriage customs, and were often guilty of infanticide. A peculiar practice was making the youths of the tribe " young men,'' an interesting rite, barbarous in the extreme. Probably the object was to make the young men hardy. Our authority is the Rev. George Taplin : " The matted hair was combed or torn out with the point of a spear. The moustache and great part of the beard was plucked out by the roots. This was done three times while the long initia- tion lasted. For three days and three nights they were not allowed to eat nor drink. For several months the luxury of a drinking vessel was denied to them. When thirsty they had to drink water by sucking it through a *He spells the word a little differently to the Rev. G. Taplin. 130 SOCIAL REVERSES AND SUCCESSES. reed. During the whole period, which Listed some months, they were forbidden to eat any food which belonged to the women, and from partaking of twenty different kinds of game. Only the animals which were most difficult to obtain were allowed to them, no doubt with the object of making them expert hunters." They had a strange way of disposing of the dead. Having concluded that sorcery was the cause of death the nearest relation slept with his head on the corpse, so that he might dream who the sorcerer was. The body was then placed over a slow fire for a day or two, until the outer skin was blistered. This outer skin and the hair was then removed. All the apertures of the body were then sewn up. It was rubbed with grease and red ochre, and set up naked on a stage inside tlie wurley. A slow fire was placed under the corpse in order to dry it. The relatives lived, ate, drank, and slept in the presence of this putrefying mass. When dried it was wrapped up in mats and kept in the wurley. Leaving the tribes located in the south-east of the new settlement, and travelling to the far north, there was the same conception of the supernatural and belief in a future state, though expressed in a different way. The natives had religious festivals, at which they sought for material good. The source of our information is the record of Lutheran missionaries, who spent some time among them. " Their gods did not live together, nor even in the same locality. Malbonga lived in their heavenly Paradise, or Laia. He once made a journey to the neighborhood where the tribe was located, and founded it. After death it was believed their souls would follow Malbonga to Laia." The after-life was simply a prolongation, so to speak, of the life that now is, but on a fuller scale. Laia was a locality in which fruit and food were to be had in abundance. There was the same fear of sorcery and disembodied spirits as in the south-east of the colony. The dead in this tribe were buried. In some other parts of the Far North they were placed upon frameworks and left SOCIAL REVERSES AND SUCCESSES, 131 exposed to sun, wind, and rain until all the flesh had disappeared. These children of the bush, of whom we have given a passing description, gave the early settlers much trouble. Not long after the establishment of the colony a shepherd was tending sheep within seven miles of the small city. He was assailed by the natives, struck down with a waddy, and speared in the breast. In- spector Inman and others traced the supposed mur- derers to Lyndoch Valley, and finally arrested them at the Para River. They were found guilty and con- demned to death. A scaffold was erected on the North Park Lands, and the criminals, overwhelmed with terror, were placed upon it. Many of the natives were present to witness the execution. After the death penalty had been inflicted there was loud lamentation weeping and wailing in the native wurlies. This was the first execution of natives in the primitive com- munity. The early settlers were dependent upon the older colonies for their meat supply. When the new settle- ment had only been in existence about fourteen months Joseph Hawdon discovered an overland route to South Australia.* He brought over a mob of cattle and horses. Others soon followed, including the explorers Edward J. Eyre and Captain Charles Sturt. These overland trips were difficult and dangerous. In 1841 Messrs. H. Tnman and H. Field were leading an overland party in charge of sheep for the new settlement. For many miles the blacks the Murray tribe were very troublesome. On the way Mr. Inman was wounded by a spear. At the River Darling several of the sheep were speared. The blacks followed the party to Lake Bonney. In the vicinity of the lake thirty or forty natives were seen . There were many more under cover in the bush, all armed with spears, shields, and waddies, Established Church was but a fractional part. So far r then, as lay in his power, both by precept and example he would try to inculcate in South Australia Lord Bacon's maxim that church controversies ought not to be like the briar and thistle, rending and tearing, but like the vine and olive, bearing useful fruit. No doubt the new Governor was anticipating, perhaps with some anxiety, the coming struggle over the question of State-aid to religion in the colony over which he had been called to rule. The few words of his address just quoted reveal him as a prudent and con- ciliatory man. On August 1, 1848, the " Forfarshire " dropped anchor in South Australian waters, having on board the new Governor (Sir Henry Young) and his lady. They met with a chilling reception, more correctly with no reception at all. No heads of departments not even the official nominees of the Crown were present to board the vessel, or to speak a word of welcome. What was termed a " unicorn coach " and two mounted policemen were sent down to the Port to await the Governor's arrival. When he landed the only cheers that greeted him were those of some half-dozen barge- men. No official was at the waterside to receive His Excellency and lady. No respectful demonstration followed. They came up to Adelaide in the " unicorn coach," escorted by the two mounted policemen. On arrival at Government House there was no guard of honor to receive him, nor any member of the Executive, and the " respectable colonists " were represented by a " knot of the unwashed " whose " cheers were anything but deafening." So said the versatile John Stephens r editor of the " Register." Can we not, at this time of day, discover a reason ? The people had outgrown the system of government to- which they had been subjected. The infancy of the colony had gone by. It was approaching manhood. When the colony was proclaimed it was ruled by a 196 POLITICAL AND RELIGIOUS EMANCIPATION. body of Commissioners. These were appointed by the Crown. A Governor and a Resident Commissioner were sent out. It was a strange piece of legislation; a man so likewise a way will be opened for the message of Him who hath made of one blood all nations of men." Captain Cadell (the hero of the hour) was greeted with a storm of applause. He affirmed that in his- attempt to open up the Murray trade he had not been inspired by mercenary motives. His ambition was " the waking up of a mighty but hitherto torpid stream," so that it " might fulfil its allotted duties, as intended by the Creator of all things, and to render it subservient to the uses of mankind." It is said that in after years Captain Cadell went in for pearl fishing on the north-west coast of Australia,, and whilst asleep was murdered by one of the crew in 1879. Governor Young was the father of South Aus- tralian railways. It was during his time that the rail- way to the Port was constructed, and consent was given for the formation of the Adelaide and Gawler line. During his administration steam postal com- munication was established between South Australia and England, and the electric telegraph within the colony came into use. The chilling reception that Governor Young re- ceived on his arrival was more than atoned for by the practical expression of esteem that marked his depar- ture. An address was presented to him, and a hand- some silver claret jug and salver. Lady Young re- ceived a silver tea service valued at one hundred guineas. The party left Government House on December 20, 1854. A salute of thirteen guns was fired. There was a detach- ment of mounted police in front of the carriage, and in the rear a guard of honor composed of the Adelaide Mounted Volunteer Rifle Corps. A large number of gentlemen on horseback, and various vehicles, brought up the rear. Governor Young was appointed ad- ministrator of the Government in Tasmania. CHAPTER XV. RESPONSIBLE GOVERNMENT. It was not till June 7, 1855, that Governor Sir Richard and Lady MacDonnell arrived. During the interim the Hon. B. T. Finniss acted as administrator. The liberal rule of Sir Henry E. Young had evi- dently won the hearts of the people. It stimulated their loyalty. The vice-regal appointment was no longer regarded with impatience or indifference. The result was that Sir Richard MacDonnell and his lady met with a most effusive welcome. The ships in the harbor were decorated, and flags from various positions waved in the breeze. An address was presented to him at Port Adelaide. A salute of seventeen guns was fired. A cavalcade followed him from the Port to the city. Volunteers were arranged in file two deep along North-terrace. A company of the Fortieth Regiment was drawn up in the same locality. The soldiers pre- sented arms, and the multitude cheered. Sir Richard was the son of Dr. MacDonnell, Provost of Trinity College, Dublin. He was born in 1815, and was educated at Trinity College, where he took a high position. For some time he practised as a lawyer in London. He was appointed Chief Justice of the British possessions at Gambia, and in course of time became Oovernor of the Gambia settlements. Here he nar- rowly escaped with his life. In one of his expeditions, visiting a native town, he fell into an ambush. His olothes were pierced in many places with spear and sword cuts. It was the want of union among his assailants, and the gallantry of some native allies that saved him. Afterwards he was appointed to a Go- vernorship in the West Indies, and then to South Aus- RESPONSIBLE GOVERNMENT. 231 tralia. He spent nearly seven years as Governor of this colony. During his administration self-government became an actual fact, the Real Property Act was passed, and the colony reached its majority. He identified himself with every movement for the good of the colony, whether literary, artistic, educational, or philanthropic. Of Governor MacDonnell a visitor to Adelaide dur- ing his administration said: " The Governor and his lady are very popular, and deservedly so. They mix freely in society, and take a lead in all the amusements of the place. Sir Richard is spoken of as rather too clever a man for his position, and as being rather in- clined to chafe under the restraints inherent to the condition of the strictly constitutional Governor. He is a fine, powerful, masculine fellow; full of life, vigor, and animal spirits; hospitable, devoted to outdoor sports, and a perfect Ulysses with the bow." In Governor Young's time we saw the third reading of the Parliament Bill passed, and the Bill transmitted to the British Government for their approval. Sir Richard MacDonnell received a dispatch from Lord John Russell advising a reconsideration of the Bill. Before attempting further legislation Lord John Russell suggested the expediency of a new election, and pointed out two courses of procedure that the new Legislative Council could take either to^ amend the Parliament Bill, or to bring in a new one. The people were to have a free hand in the matter. A few days after the receipt of this dispatch the dissolution of the old Legislative Council was gazetted. Writs were again issued, and candidates announced themselves. Opponents of State-aid, fearful of its resurrection, again bestirred themselves. Another epoch had come in the history of the people; and a great responsibility rested upon the electors. In the previous chapter the pioneers had to consider a constitution that had been submitted to them by the Imperial authorities, now they were at liberty to formulate their own. Said 232 RESPONSIBLE GOVERNMENT. the editor of the " Register ": " We are now called upon to reconstitute our Legislature under different auspices, and for greater purposes than before. It is no- light responsibilty that has devolved upon us. We are not called to elect men to make an ordinary law, but to- make a constitution. We are laying the foundations of a new political and social State." Governor MacDonnell, whose legal training was of service to the colonists, suggested the lines on which he thought a new constitution should be based, pro- viding for a single Chamber, of forty members, with four official nominees. The suggestion did not meet with the approval of the people. The days of nomina- tion were numbered. Great interest was taken in the elections. Many were carried away by excitement. Rival colors were worn, and in some instances rival flag& were torn down. Unfortunately in West Adelaide, where the Hibernian element prevailed, shillalahs were used. The successful candidate for West Torrens (Thomas Reynolds) rode to the declaration of the poll in a carriage, drawn by four horses, and followed by a large procession made up of vehicles and horsemen. The defeated candidate (Major O'Halloran) also had a carriage and four. At East Adelaide banners and decorations were in great profusion. The new Legislative Council consisted of the fol- lowing : NOMINATED BY THE GOVERNOR. Official Nominees Boyle T. Finniss (Colonial Secretary). Richard D. Hanson (Advocate-General). Captain Arthur H. Freeling (Surveyor-General). Robert R. Torrens (Colonial Treasurer). Non-Official Nominees James H. Fisher Marshall McDermott Samuel Davenport Edward Stirling RESPONSIBLE GOVERNMENT. 233 ELECTED BY THE PEOPLE. North Adelaide John Bentham Neales East Adelaide Francis Stacker Dutton West Adelaide Anthony Forster Port Adelaide William Scott Yatala Arthur Blyth East Torrens John B. Hughes West Torrens Thomas Reynolds Noarlunga William Peacock Mount Barker John Baker Hindmarsh John Rankine Barossa George Fife Angas Victoria John Hart Light John T. Bagot Stanley William Younghusband Burra George S. Kingston Flinders Alfred Watts Among the defeated candidates were such well- Icnown early settlers as Sir James H. Fisher. Major O'Hallorart, Walter Duffield, Alexander Hay, Edward C. Gwynne, Marshall McDermott, and Edward Stirling. The Governor chose three of the defeated candidates as non-official nominees. Upon this new Legislative Council devolved the responsibility of making a new Constitution. A critical time had come in the building up of the Commonwealth. It was necessary that the work should be wisely and thoroughly done. They had to lay a course in the building up of national life upon which great issues would depend. They met, for the first time, on Thursday, Novem- ber 1st, 1855, in the new Chamber on North-terrace. The public gallery was crowded with citizens and re- presentative public men. James H. Fisher was elected Speaker. Governor MacDonnell's address was a very long one. He stated that Her Majesty's representative was no longer styled Lieutenant-Governor, but Governor-in- 234 RESPONSIBLE GOVERNMENT. Chief of South Australia. This he took to be an indi cation of the growing importance of the colony. As the colony was still young the Governor expressed a preference for a single Chamber, but as the majority of the people desired two Houses he thought that their wish should prevail. He then laid before the Council, as a kind of working model, a Bill providing for two Houses. Both Houses were to be elective. The Legislative Council was to consist of eighteen members, one of whom was to be President. At the end of every four years five members were to vacate their seats, and five new members were to be elected. The House of Assembly was to consist of thirty members. The franchise for both Houses, according to the Governor's proposal, was to be alike. His suggestion was a cum- brous one. Every man of the age of twenty-one, having freehold estate of the clear value of 20, or occupying a dwelling house of the clear annual value of 5, or having a leasehold of the value of 10 per annum, or having a salary of 100, or being a graduate of any British University, or practitioner of the Supreme Court, or minister of religion, was to have a vote for both Houses. Such was the Governor's somewhat inflated proposal. As soon as the Bill was presented it was condemned. On the motion for its second reading, the Government, to avoid an inevitable defeat, declared that if its second reading were carried it would be with the distinct under- standing that the Council would not be pledged to any of its clauses. With this understanding the Council went into Committee on the Bill. The outcome of their deliberations was: Two Houses; both elective. The Upper House to consist of eighteen members, elected by the whole colony; the Lower House of thirty-six members, elected by districts. In the Upper House aix members were to retire every four years. The Lower House was to be elected every three years, on the basis of manhood suffrage. The qualifications for a vote for the Upper House were: Freehold of 50 clear value; lease of 20 per annum, with three years to run; a RESPONSIBLE GOVERNMENT. 235 right of purchase; and 25 tenants. All voting was to be by ballot. This Parliament Bill was passed on January 2, 1856. Whilst it was under discussion the colonists took a great interest in it. Many letters were written to the press, and public meetings in the interests of the Bill were held. In proroguing the Council Governor MacDonnell said : ; ' The session about to close will long be remem- bered as that in which the principles were established and the broad foundation laid of the Constitution under which South Australia will, I trust, long continue to extend the prosperity which, under Divine Providence, has hitherto blessed the energy and honorable industiy of her children. I confidently expect that the extended political power entrusted to the people of this country, and the universal suffrage conceded by the new Con- stitution, will prove a safe and conservative measure, and, whilst conferring the utmost possible powers of self-government, will render stronger and more enduring than ever the cherished ties of affection and loyalty which link this province to the throne of our respected and beloved Sovereign." He spoke of the session as the longest and most remarkable of the South Australian Legislature.* Intelligence came by the " White Swan," on October 24, 1856, that the new Parliament Bill had received Royal Assent. Governor MacDonnell nominated the first Ministry under responsible Government. Chief Secretary, Hon. B. T. Finniss; Attorney-General, Hon. Richard D. Hanson; Treasurer, Hon. Robert R. Torrens; Commissioner of Public Works, Hon. Captain Arthur H. Freeling; Commissioner of (. !rown Lands, Hon. Charles Bonney. The elections under the new regime were very orderly. The battle over State-aid had been fought; a * One of the most Important Acts passed in 1856 was "An Act to provide for the water supply and drainage of the City of Adelaide." 236 RESPONSIBLE GOVERNMENT. Constitution in harmony with the wishes of the people had been granted: all that the community now had to do was to quietly and wisely vote for the new representa- tives. The Parliament under the new Constitution met on April 22, 1857. About one thousand spectators assem- bled on North-terrace. A guard of honor was drawn up in front of the Council Chambers, and a detachment of police was stationed on the Terrace. A royal salute was fired. The multitude cheered. They brought forth the top stone shouting grace! grace! unto it. As this event will ever be memorable in history we give the names of the members who were elected to the first Parliament : LEGISLATIVE COUNCIL Hon. Thomas S. O'Halloran John Baker William Younghusband John Morphett Edward C. Gwynne Anthony Forster Abraham Scott William Scott George Hall Henry Avers Arthur H. Freeling George Fife Angas Edward Stirling James H. Fisher Captain C. Bagot Samuel Davenport Charles Davies Charles G. Everard HOUSE OF ASSEMBLY City of Adelaide Hon. Boyle T. Finniss, Hon. Robert R. Torrens, Hon. Richard D. Hanson. Francis S. Button, John B. Neales, William H, Burf ord . RESPONSIBLE GOVERNMENT. 237 Port Adelaide John Hart arid John B. Hughes. West Torrens -Luther Scammell and James W. Cole. Yatala John Harvey and Charles Simeon Hare. Gumeracha Arthur Blyth and Alexander Hay. East Torrens George M. Waterhouse and Hon. Charles Bonney. Sturt Thomas Reynolds and John Hallett. Xoarlunga Thomas Young and Henry Mildred. Mount Barker Friederich E. H. Krichauff and John Dunn. Onkaparinga William Milne and William B. Davies. Encounter Bay Benjamin H. Babbage and Arthur F. Lindsay. Barossa Walter Duffield and Horace Dean. The Murray David Wark. Light John T. Bagot and Carrington Smedley. Victoria Robert R. Leake. Burra and Clare George S. Kingston, Morris Marks, and Edward J. Peake. Flinders Marshall McDermott. Summing up after the elections the editor of the 4i Register " said : " Responsible Government inaugurated this day will henceforth direct, for weal or for woe, the destinies of this province. We have no fear as to the result." Said the " London Times " in commenting upon the position: " It must be confessed that it is rather an odd position for a new community of rising tradesmen, farmers, cattle-breeders, builders, mechanics, with a sprinkling of doctors and attorneys, to find that it is suddenly called upon to find Prime Ministers, Cabinets, a Ministerial side, and an opposition side, and all the apparatus of a Parliamentary Government to awake one fine morning and discover that this is no longer a colony, but a nation, saddled with all the rules and traditions of the political life of the Mother Country." A visitor to South Australia in 1857 published bis RESPONSIBLE GOVERNMENT. " reminiscences." From these we may learn what Adelaide and its suburbs looked like in the year in which responsible Government was granted. The old print says: Adelaide has many advantages of situation, and has, in some respects, been well laid out. Yet during several months of the year it is virtually uninhabitable. The dust is incessant and overwhelming. But for this peculiarity it would be an agreeable town enough. In one thing the people of Adelaide are setting a good example. They are taking active steps in planting the city. Private persons are allowed, with proper restric- tions, to plant along the kerb in front of their premises; and along all the terraces which surround the town; and in all the squares, which occur at regular intervals r ornamental trees have been planted by the Corporation. Adelaide is situated on a very extensive plain. The Torrens runs through it, and supplies it with water. The river, during the summer months is very insigni- ficant; however, it continues to run all the year, and the water is of good quality. Waterworks, upon a rather large scale, are in progress, the river being dammed up about ten miles from the town, and the water will be brought in by gravitation. Upon one side Adelaide is sheltered by a range of hills, of which, considering their extreme beauty, I am surprised that I have heard BO little. The Tiers slope down into the plains, the entire way from the coast to the Burra a hundred miles up country, presenting everywhere a very beautiful appear- ance; gently undulating, sometimes well-covered with timber, sometimes open down, broken up into all sorts of pretty forms; the eye never tires of resting on these delightful ranges. As the sun rises, culminates, and declines, new beauties of light and shadow reveal them- selves, and every passing cloud adds its quota to the general effect. The gardens in the neighborhood of Adelaide exceed any that I have seen in the colonies. They are very extensive, highly cultivated, and most productive. In season fruit abounds to such an extent that much of the more perishable kinds is lost alto- gether. The kinds range from the gooseberry to the RESPONSIBLE GOVERNMENT. 239 loquat and the orange. Extensive olive gardens pre- sent themselves here and there; but, to my great sur- prise, no use whatever is made of the produce. The vine is being extensively cultivated. Wine making is progressing in numerous directions. The railway and electric telegraph are progressing at a moderate rate. The railway has already connected Adelaide with the Port, a distance of eight miles, and also stretched away to Gawler town, twentj^-five miles into the interior. These lines are in the hands of the Government, and are badty worked. Little attention is paid to either punc- tuality or regularity of working in any respect. Your ticket is either asked for two or three times, or not asked for at all, and to my intense amusement I saw a lady, unprovided with tickets for herself and friend, count out the fare to the guard, and send him away for the necessary change. The leading politicians, as in all the colonies, have expended a great deal of their strength in selfish struggles for power." Such were the impressions made by our province upon an observing mind nearly half a century ago. Our railway system then had only just been boni, and no doubt was in a crude condition. CHAPTER XVI. EXPLORATION. Around all mystery there is a fascination. It is this fact that has led so many men to risk their lives in attempts to penetrate into the interior of Africa, and to reach the North Pole. What lies beyond ? This is a question that man is not only constrained to ask, but must endeavour to answer. The first immigrants were located on a vast plain. All the country beyond the range of vision was a terra incognita. What lies be- yond ? Is the interior inhabited or uninhabited ? Mountainous or level ? Barren or fertile '< What kind of plants does it produce ? Are there any new species of animals ? By what kind of race is it peopled ? What are their mariners and customs ? Are there any large rivers, lakes, or inland seas ? Is it possible to traverse the continent ? Such were the questions that appealed to the pioneers and which they soon endea- voured to answer. Sheep, cattle, and horses were needed in the new settlement. Would it be possible to bring these over- land from some of the other colonies ? The first to solve the problem, as we have pointed out, were Joseph Hawdon and Charles Bonney. Shortly after, Edward John Eyre, another pas- toralist in New South Wales, brought over a mob of cattle. He found the journey a perilous one. Six horses died, and himself and two men nearly perished from want of food and water. Mr. Eyre was the first man to bring sheep over from New South Wales. Fur- ther on we shall see that he was a born adventurer bold, determined, cool, calculating, and resourceful. He was not the man to give way to panic, or to lose EXPLORATION. 241 his wits in the presence of difficulty and danger. Eyre had the " conquer or die " spirit. He was the stuff that heroes are made out of -the material that is wanted in nation building. THE EYRE EXPEDITION. Eyre was the first man to endeavour to penetrate the interior of the continent. His expedition grew out of a visit that Captain George Grey (afterwards Governor) paid to the new settlement in 1840. He sug- gested to some of the leading emigrants the advisability of trying to find an overland route between South and Western Australia. If a route were discovered Captain Grey thought it might be possible to send stock from one colony to another. Eyre felt a great interest in the proposal. His eyes, however, were directed to the northern interior. He suggested that public attention should be given to it, so that, if possible, the veil might be lifted from the unknown and mysterious centre of the vast Australian continent. Eyre dined with Governor Gawler, and the two talked the matter over. He volunteered to take charge of a party, to find one- third of the number of horses required, and one-third of the money. To make this possible he broke up his sheep station on the River Light. The pioneers took the matter up, raising by subscription 582. Governor Gawler contributed 100, and Mr. Eyre gave 680, out of his own resources. Governor Gawler offered the use of any two horses belonging to the police, and a small vessel, the " Waterwitch," was also placed at his dis- posal. The vessel was to convey stores to the head of Spencer's Gulf. Eyre was to proceed to Lake Torrens and examine it, and then to penetrate as far into the northern interior of the continent as possible. Pre- vious to this, at his own expense, he had made excur- sions to the north, both from Port Lincoln and Ade- laide . The party consisted of Mr. Eyre and his com- panion (Mr. Scott), John Baxter (who had been the 242 EXPLORATION. overseer of his sheep station), Corporal Coles (of the Royal Engineers), John Houston, R. McRoberts, and two black boys. All the preparations were now made. It is Thursday morning, June 18, 1840. The little settlement on the plains is astir. Something very un- usual must be about to happen. Outside of Government House, North-terrace, are some drays and several horses. The drays are laden with camping requirements. Two black boys and several white men are in attendance. Gentlemen are riding into the Government Domain. Several conveyances are driving up, and the occupants are alighting. Whilst the black boys and men partake of a meal provided by Governor Gawler, a meeting is held in the drawing-room of Government House. It is the anniversary of the battle of Waterloo, in which Governor Gawler took so prominent and heroic a part. No wonder there is so much animation among the ladies and gentlemen present. Who could forget the battle of Waterloo ? Least of all the Governor. But it is not the famous battle that the Governor and guests have so much in mind. They have met to say farewell to Edward John Eyre, who is about to enter upon one of the most heroic and hazardous enterprises ever under- taken by man. After breakfast Governor Gawler rises and ad- dresses the company : " We are assembled to promote one of the most important undertakings that remains to be accomplished on the face of the globe the dis- covery of the interior of Australia. Mr. Eyre goes forth this day to endeavour to plant the British flag in the very centre of our island continent. May tritimph crown his efforts. All have given to Mr. Eyre their best wishes but to good wishes right-minded men always add fervent prayers. There is an Almighty, invisible Being in Whose hands are all events. Let us, therefore,, implore His protection." Some of the pioneer ladies, amongst others Miss Hindmarsh (daughter of the first Governor) and Miss EXPLORATION. 243 Lipson (daughter of the first harbor-master) had worked a handsome Union Jack in silk for presentation to Mr. Eyre. The gallant explorer, Captain Sturt, now rises: " I am to deliver you this flag in the name of the ladies who made it, with their best wishes for your success, and their earnest prayers for your safety. This noble color, the ensign of our country, has cheered the brave on many occasions. You have to carry it to the centre of a mighty continent, there to leave it as a sign to the savage that the footprints of civilised man have pro- ceeded so far. Go forth, then, on your journey with a full confidence in the goodness of Providence, and may heaven direct your steps." Under deep emotion Mr. Eyre receives the flag, and tenders his thanks. All bow while the Rev. C. B. Howard (Colonial Chaplain) offers prayer. It is now twelve o'clock. A large party of the pioneer emigrants have gathered around Government House. A procession of horsemen is formed, cheers are given, and away the gallant explorer canters up North Adelaide road, accompanied by sympathising friends. After proceeding a few miles they say fare- well, and Edward J. Eyre and party are left alone to pursue their journey into an unknown land a land of sand, drought, stones, salt bush, and scrub, into the mysteries of which the mind of civilised man has never peered, and over which the foot of white man has never trod. That day they travelled as far as the Little Para, and then camped for the night. Said Eyre : " From the crowded drawing-room of civilised life I had r in a few hours, been transferred to the solitude and silence of the wilds. ... I had suddenly become isolated with regard to the world which, so far as I was concerned, now consisted only of the few brave men who accompanied me, and who were dependent for their very existence upon the energy, perseverance, and prudence with which I might conduct the task. With this small but gallant and faithful band I was to attempt the vast recesses of the interior of Australia, and to lift 244 EXPLORATION. up the veil which had hitherto shrouded its mysteries. . . . When all nature around me was buried in deep repose I alone was waking and anxious." He looked to the Flinders Range as a stepping stone to the interior. The next morning they marched on to Gawler, where they had lunch. They then pushed on to Mr. Eyre's station on the Light. When the station was left they had thirteen horses, forty sheep, and provisions to last about three months, in addition to what had been sent by the " Waterwitch " to the head of Spencer's Gulf. About one hundred and twenty miles north of the primitive settlement the party met a poor old emaciated native, apparently left by his tribe to die. He was re- duced to a mere skeleton, and life was slowly ebbing away. They also fell in with a party of natives at the stream that Eyre had named Rocky River. Travelling on, Eyre saw a high-pointed hill in the Flinders Range which he named Mount Remarkable. He also came to a watercourse to which he gave the name of Costal Brook. The party pushed on to Mount Arden. At the head of Spencer's Gulf they re- ceived their stores which had been shipped by the *' Waterwitch." At Mount Arden a depot was formed, and stores and men were left there while Eyre and a black boy, with two horses, proceeded to explore the interior. They went on to Mount Eyre. This was the most northerly limit of a journey that Mr. Eyre had made in 1839. He climbed to the top, but all around saw little but sterility. In the distance, apparently about twenty-five miles off, was the glittering bed of Lake Torrens. Pushing on the travellers came to the lake. It seemed to be from fifteen to twenty miles across, and from forty to fifty miles long. The bed of the lake was a saline deposit that glittered brilliantly in the sun. Beneath this salt crust there was a bog, consequently Eyre could not go far enough into the EXPLORATION. 24 & centre of the lake to see whether or not it contained water. It was evident that he could not travel further in this direction. His hope of success in penetrating further into the interior lay in the continuation of the Flinders Range. In its recesses he thought that it might be possible to obtain food and water. The party now turned in the direction of the range. Fortu- nately here and there the travellers came to a puddle in the plain a kind of clay pan where they obtained a little water. A great many emus were seen, and occasionally the part} 7 saw indications of the presence of blacks. They came upon a young lubra (female native) miserably thin and squalid, like the wretched country in which her lot had been cast. Everywhere Eyre found the presence of salt. Said he " ]n such country what accommodation could I expect, or what hopes could 1 entertain for the future, when the very water- shed from the clouds would not be drinkable after re- maining a few hours on the ground I Whichever way I turned myself to the west, east, or north nothing but difficulties met my view." ..." The very stones lying upon the hills looked like the scorched and withering scoria of a volcanic region; and even the natives, judging from the specimens I had seen, partook of the general misery and wretchedness of the place." Eyre and the black boy now moved in the direction of Mount Deception. Having ascended this mount they travelled backward in a south-easterly direction to search for water in the hills. Eyre was anxious to find permanent water so that he might remove his depot further into the interior. He discovered a small but deep pool of water in a hole in a rock, that would last for some time, and resolved to bring the whole party this far. This he called Depot Pool. He was now about one hundred and twenty miles from the depot at Mount Arden. In the journey back both the black boy and himself suffered great privations. The country was terribly rough, water scarce, and food unpalatable. Occasionally the black boy secured an opossum, or Eyre shot a kangaroo, which was a welcome change from 246 EXPLORATION. damper. After being absent sixteen days they arrived safely at the depot at Mount Arden, and found all well. Here they buried some provisions, and made prepara- tions again to penetrate into the interior. In the course of a few days the whole party reached Depot Pool. With a black boy, a man on horseback, leading a packhorse, carrying water, Mr. Eyre again made for the interior. They travelled for the most westerly point of Mount Deception Range. In every direction the prospect was cheerless and disheartening. They sur- prised a camp of blacks, around a fire, who, overwhelmed with terror, took to flight, leaving two small children behind. In the blacks' camp Eyre and his party found .some water in kangaroo skins, to which they helped themselves, leaving, as payment., a pocket handkerchief. When they retraced their steps, the next day, they found the two terrified children still in the camp, ap- parently abandoned by the lubras. The fire had gone out, and the elder of the two had scraped a hole in the ashes, in which they had spent the cold winter's night. Eyre and party again returned to Depot Pool, and found all well, but the water almost exhausted. What to do, or where to go, Eyre could not tell. He had found a pool of water in some rocks, near the Mount Deception Range, and decided to move the whole party to this. Forming a depot here, Eyre determined to push as far northward as possible. He took with him a black boy, and a cart loaded with water (about sixty-five gallons), three horses, and a driver. They steered for a high hill, which he named Mount Nor west. In the journey they surprised four wretched natives, who fled in terror. Eyre, anxious to obtain information if possible, galloped after them, and narrowly escaped being speared. The native overtaken was so terrified that no information could be obtained from him. All around Mount Nor- west was a scene of desolation. To save their lives, and the lives of the horses the party had to go back fifty miles to a place where they had buried some water, and from thence they returned to the Depot. Draw- EXPLORATION. 247 ing near the Depot, Eyre was surprised to see about thirty savages around it, brandishing their spears. It appears that in his absence his overseer (Baxter) had oaptured a native woman to gain information about water, and the savages had gathered for the purpose of revenge. Eyre was a wise and a kind-hearted man. He determined that nothing but dire necessity should lead him to take the life of a black. Fortunately the natives retired. The party now set out to search for water. Eyre again went to examine the western shore of Lake Torrens. No special discoveries were made, and he returned to the Depot. Preparations were now made for breaking up the encampment. The party steered north for some distance. Eyre then ascended a mountain which he named Mount Serle. From the summit there was a very wide and forlorn view. Said he: " At one glance I saw the realization of my worst forebodings, and the termination of the expedition of which I had command. On every side we were hemmed in by a barrier which we could never hope to pass. Our toils and labors and privations had all been endured to no purpose.* His last effort in the north was to decide the actual termination of the Flinders Range. He steered for a mountain to which he gave the name of Mount Hopeless. Having ascended this he saw " a cheerless and hopeless prospect," and demonstrated the termination of the Flinders Range in the basin of Lake Torrens. The whole party then went back to the first depot at Mount Arden. Eyre was not yet discouraged. His was a heroic spirit. He determined to try to penetrate into the interior either eastward or westward. He made up his mind to travel to Streaky Bay and to find a route into the interior of the Australian continent by travelling westward. The buried stores were now dug up, and * Thirty-two years later a telegraph line was stretched across this apparently impracticable country. 248 EXPLORATION. the party travelled in the direction of Streaky Bay. A depot was formed on the west coast, at Point Fowler. Leaving a party in charge of the stores at Point Fowler, Eyre, with a native and two horses, set out westward. After travelling for some distance they were driven back to the depot for want of water. It was Eyre's desire to get around what isjknown as the Great Australian Bight. A dray was now fitted up and laden with seventy gallons of water. With a black boy and one of his men Eyre again set his face westward. After travelling many miles in the bush, over terrific country, suffering great privations, and losing by death three horses, Eyre and his party were again compelled to return to the depot at Point Fowler. The chief difficulty was need of water. At all hazards the heroic explorer was determined to get round the Australian Bight. He now decided to reduce the number of his party. Two men were sent back to Adelaide by the " Waterwitch/' then lying in Fowler's Bay. He would make one more effort to get around the Bight. Once again, in face of appalling difficulties, he faced the west. This time he took with him his overseer (Baxter), a man, driving three horses in a dray with water, and a black boy. They fell in with a party of natives who gave them to understand that there was no water inland. However, there were eighty-five gallons on the dray, and the party pushed on. The horses gave in, and were taken back by the over- seer for water and two days' rest. After two days they were ready to make another start. A cask of water was buried for future use, if need be. Some miles further on another cask was buried. This was to provide for a possible return journey. The overseer was now sent back with the dray to the depot. Eyre, with one of his men, and one of the black boys, again went forward. Ere long the man lost heart, and wan sent back. Eyre and the black boy were now alone in the bush. Near the head of the Bight they came to a native pathway, and suddenly came upon four blacks, EDWARD JOHN EYRE. EXPLORATION. 249 camped by a Xvater hole. At first these were hostile, but Eyre soon gained their confidence. From the blacks they obtained both food and water. The " bar- barous people showed them no little kindness," guiding them some miles onward to a place called by them Yeerkumban Kauwe. Here there was food and water for the horses. The natives gave them to understand that in the interior there was no water. For some time Eyre and the black boy remained here. Having re- newed their strength they again proceeded westward. This time Eyre achieved his purpose. He got around the Australian Bight, and obtained some knowledge of the country. He and the black now retraced their steps. On the way back to the depot they again fell in with the friendly natives who had shown them such kindness before. These had the half-roasted body of a kangaroo of which Eyre and the black boy were invited to partake. They got back to the place where they had buried twenty gallons of water, and here they found the overseer on the look out for them, with two fresh horses to assist them back to the Depot at Point Fowler. Eyre had been forty-five miles beyond the head of the Australian Bight. He was now satisfied that in this direction there was no route into the mysterious interior. In trying to round the Bight he had travelled six hundred and fortj'-three miles. As soon as the horses were rested he determined to force a passage, if possible, round the coast to King George's Sound, a formidable undertaking. Having secured a native (Wylie) from Western Australia, and made the necessary preparation, Eyre again started westward, taking with him his overseer (Baxter), two black boys, and the native from Western Australia. To reach King George's Sound meant a journey of nearly nine hundred miles, much of it through almost impracticable desert. Said he " We were now alone, myself, my overseer, and three native boys, with a fearful task before us. We must reach King George's Sound or perish. The result we humbly left to that 250 EXPLORATION Almighty Being who had guided and guarded us hitherto amidst all our difficulties." They had with them some sheep and ten horses. Eyre took the same course as previously. He passed the furthest point that he had reached on his former journej' round the Bight. He now calculated that they had travelled one hundred and ten miles from the last water, but the country remained the same, water- less. The sheep had to be left behind for a time with the overseer, while Eyre pushed on in search of water to save the horses. These had been four days without water, and the supply for the men was now exhausted. The black boy was worn out, and Eyre was little better. He tells how lie lay down to wait for daylight, but not to sleep, agitated by apprehensions as to the fate of the overseer and black boys left behind. They were now one hundred and twenty-eight miles from the last water, and had been four days without any, and without food. If water could not be discovered in the morning the horses must perish, and perhaps the men too. The next morning, after travelling some distance, they came to a native pathway leading down to the seashore. Following this they providentially, as Eyre affirmed, came to some native wells, where was a good supply of water. Where was the overseer ? and the two native boys would they reach this God-send ? Such were the thoughts that agitated Eyre's mind. Next morning, with the first streak of daylight, he and the black boy hurried back to meet the overseer and party, carrying with them some water. Fortunately they were all preserved. Eyre met them slowly travel- ling onward, though greatly exhausted. Having rested for some time at the native wells they again proceeded westward. There were still from six hundred to eight hundred miles to travel through absolutely unknown country. The sheep that the overseer had brought on were now reduced in number to three, and the stock of flour amounted to only one hun- dred and forty-two pounds to be shared among five EXPLORATION. 25 1 persons. Said the heroic traveller -"The task before us was indeed a fearful one, but I firmly hoped, by patience and perseverance, safely and successfully to accomplish it." They were now seventy-two miles from water. On they travelled over sandy ridges, salt swamps, arid past dense scrub. Soon they were one hundred and twenty miles from the last water. The native boys extracted some from the roots of trees, but not sufficient in quantity to be serviceable to the horses. Again the horses began to collapse; one had to be abandoned to certain death. Five days had passed since the last water had been left. Said Eyre " Whenever we halted they (the horses) folloAved us about like dogs, appearing to look to us only for aid, and exhibiting that confidence in us which I trust we reposed in the Almighty." Another horse fell. Their supply of water in the keg was nearly gone. Now the last drop was consumed. With a sponge Eyre gathered some of the dew that had fallen on the grass during the night, and in this way secured a little water. After resting for a night they travelled on again and then tried to secure water by digging in the sand. To their great joy they were successful. " Words would be inadequate," said the explorer, " to express the joy and thankfulness of my little party at once more finding ourselves in safety, with abundance of water near us." Since leaving the last water they had travelled one hundred and sixty miles, and the horses had been seven days without water and almost without food. The party were now reduced to one sheep. In his journal the leader wrote " That gracious God, without Whose assistance all hope of safety had been in vain, had heard our earnest prayers for His aid, and I trust that in our deliverance we recognised and ack- nowledged with sincerity and thankfulness His guiding and protecting hand." After camping here for some time they resumed their journey. The party were now about half way between Fowler's Bay and King George's Sound. Food 252 EXPLORATION. and water were again almost exhausted, but there was nothing to do but to push on and to trust in Providence, Even if they had wished to retrace their steps to Fowler's Bay such was now impossible. A horse was killed for food. Eyre now had trouble with the black boys. They became mutinous, and stole the rations, conse- quently they were put on less allowance. Two of them left the party, but subsequently returned. Wearily and painfully they pushed on in the direction of King George's Sound. Camping one night an awful tragedy occurred Eyre had left the camp to keep the horses from straying. He saw a flash of fire, and heard the report of a gun. In a few minutes the King George's Sound native (Wylie) came running towards him, crying " Oh, massa ! Oh, massa, come here !" Upon reaching the camp he saw his faithful overseer (Baxter) weltering in his blood, and in the agonies of death. He had been shot by the other two black boys, and the camp had been plundered. Said the stricken leader " He who had faithfully served me for many years, who had followed my fortunes in adversity and in prosperity, who had accompanied me in all my wanderings, and whose attachment to me had been his sole inducement to remain with me in this last and (to him) fatal journey, was now no more. . . . The horrors of my situation glared upon me in such startling reality as for an instant almost to paralyse the mind. At the dead of night, in the wildest and most inhospitable waste of Australia, with the fierce wind raging in unison with the scene of violence before me, I was left, with a single native, whose fidelity I could not rely upon, and who, for aught I knew, might be in league with the other two, who perhaps were even now lurking about with the view of taking away my life. . . . Three days had passed away since we left the last water, and it was doubtful when we might find any more. Six hundred miles of country had ta be traversed before I could hope to obtain assistance." It was night time. Eyre and the native boy had EXPLORATION. 253 to leave the scene of violence to look after the horses. If they lost these, all was lost. " Ages," said Eyre, "" can never efface the horrors of this single night, nor would the wealth of the world even tempt me to go through similar ones again." The awful night came to an end. Morning dawned. The corpse of the murdered man lay upon the ground with eyes opened, but glared in death. It seemed as though he had been awakened by the black boys plunder- ing the camp, and had risen to prevent them, but was shot in the act. Wylie disclaimed all knowledge of the circumstances. The younger of the black boys had been with Eyre four years, the other two and a-half years. It was an awful tragedy, but probablv had not been premeditated. The nature of the ground was so rocky that Eyre could not dig a grave. He had to reverently wrap the body in a blanket and leave it where it lay. Everything had now to be abandoned but the bare necessaries of life. Some specimens that had been collected, books, and instruments were thrown away. Every additional pound weight jeopardized the lives of the weak horses. Some bread was baked and Eyre and the black boy (Wylie) again faced westward. On the way the other two black boys made their appearance in the distance, and tried to induce Wylie to join them, but without success. Eyre lost sight of them, and probably they perished in the bush. A welcome change was now observed in the nature of the country. Their water was again getting low. Several holes in the rocks were seen but they did not contain water. They were now one hundred and thirty miles from the last water. " The poor horses still crawled on," said the forlorn traveller. " I was surprised that they were still alive. As for ourselves we were both getting weaker and worn out, as well as lame. It was with the greatest difficulty that 1 could get Wylie to move if he once sat down. I had myself the same kind of apathetic feeling, and would gladly 254 EXPLORATION. have lain down and slept for ever. Nothing but a strong sense of duty prevented me from giving way to this indulgence." They came to a native road leading to the beach. Here to their great joy they discovered a native well containing water. After resting here for a time the travellers again went forward. A light rain now fell for about three hours. One of the horses was so exhausted that it- could not keep up with the others. It was killed for food. With a fresh supply of food and water they travelled on, keeping near the sea shore. Vegetation continued to improve, and good water was found. Both Eyre and the black boy were unwell, and they decided, as water and food for the horses were now abundant, to rest for a few days. After doing so slowly and wearily they again moved on. The shooting of a kangaroo was a welcome change from horse flesh. Of this circumstance Eyre says " Having seen some kangaroos near our camp I sent Wylie with the rifle to try and get one." He brought home one large enough for two good meals. This was cooked. "Wylie commenced by eating one pound and a-half of horse flesh and a little bread; he then ate the entrails, paunch,, liver, lights, tail, and two hind legs of the kangaroo, next followed a penguin that he had found upon the beach, upon this he forced the whole of the hide of the kangaroo, after singeing the hair off, and wound up this, meal by swallowing the tough skin of the penguin. He then made a fire, and lay down to sleep." The next day they came upon traces of the former presence of Europeans. On one of the trees near the beach letters had been cut. Evidently some whalers had camped upon the shore. In the course of their journey they came to a fresh water lake, the first permanent fresh water they had seen since leaving Fowler's Bay, a distance of nearly seven hundred miles. Further on they went down to the seashore and were joyfully surprised to see some boats in the distance. Looking westward they saw the EXPLORATION. 255 masts of a large vessel. Ere long the intrepid explorer and his black boy were on board a French whaler, in a bay that Eyre named Rossiter Bay after the captain of the vessel. In the evening the traveller lay down to rest as he tells " Sincerely grateful to the Almighty for having guided him through so many difficulties, and for the inexpressible relief afforded when so much needed." After spending some days on board, and having received stores from the captain. Eyre and Wylie once more resumed their journey to King George's Sound. They bade farewell to Captain Rossiter and his crew or June 15th, and on July 7th reached King George's Sound, Western Australia. After a warm welcome from the residents of Albany, in a few days Eyre was sailing for Port Adelaide. Wylie, after having received a reward from the Government, rejoined his tribe at King George's Sound. Once again we are in the primitive settlement on the banks of the Torrens. It is Thursday, August 26th, 1841. A banquet is spread. Captain Charles Sturt is in the chair. Governor Gawler has left the colony but his successor (Governor Grey) is present. He proposes the health of the gallant explorer Eyre. Edward John Eyre, who had passed through tragic experiences that would have crushed the life out of any ordinary man, rises to acknowledge the toast. He says: " Although we have not been able to lift the veil which is drawn before the centre of this still mysterious con- tinent, I would yet hope that others may profit by our ill-success, and that some future and more fortunate traveller may, by knowing where the interior is not practicable, be directed to where it is. I have much reason to be most sincerely grateful to that merciful and protecting Providence who has guided me through so many difficulties and guarded me through so many dangers." The pioneers presented him with a testimonial, and four of them, as an expression of admiration, gave him 256 EXPLORATION. eighty sheep a valuable gift in the early days. Eyre demonstrated the fact that there was not a single water course on the coast of Australia from Port Lincoln to King George's Sound. He thought that from the nature of the country through which he had passed it was not likely to be invaded again, but in 1870 John Forrest (now Sir John, of Western Australia) and a party came through from Western Australia to Ade- laide. They accomplished the journey in five months. Along the route that Eyre took, a telegraph line is now stretched between the two colonies. Associated with Eyre in his attempt to penetrate the interior was Edward Bate Scott. Mr. Scott was born in Kent, England, in 1822. When quite a youth he emigrated to New South Wales. He went on a cattle station to get experience. Came overland to the little settlement in Adelaide with cattle. Here he met with Edward J. Eyre, and became his travelling com- panion. He was with Eyre in the various attempts which he made to reach the centre of the continent. Mr. Scott was anxious to accompany his friend on his perilous attempt to travel overland to Western Aus- tralia, but this Eyre would not permit. Writing to the author in 1905. some sixty-six years after the event, Mr. Scott said: " Eyre, at all risks, would undertake the journey, and I had to return to Adelaide, as he would not jeopardise my life by taking me with him." Mr. Scott became magistrate at Moorunde, on the Murray, and through a long life held different Government offices. At the time when this history was penned he was still living at Currency Creek, aged 83 years. THE FROME EXPEDITION. After Eyre's return to Adelaide Captain Frome was sent out with an exploring party. This was in 1813. The object of the expedition was to examine the country in the vicinity of Lake Torrens. The expedition re- vealed little but the sterile nature of the country they had to examine. Frome proved that what appeared EXPLORATION. 257 to Eyre to be an eastern arm of Lake Torrens was a desert of drifting sand. On their way they lost one of the party in the scrub, but fortunately he found his way back to the camp after being five days without food or water. THE STURT EXPEDITION. In connection with this a romantic incident must be related. In 1903 the writer of this book wrote some sketches for the " South Australian Advertiser." One of these dealt with Captain Sturt. A letter came to hand some time after, evidently written by an unedu- cated man. It contained a surprising revelation. Substantially the letter said: " I have something of interest to tell you. I have in my possession Captain Sturt's diary, written by his own hand. How did I come into possession of this book ? you may ask. My father was Captain Sturt's gardener. When the Captain left for England (this was in 1853) he told my father to clear up all the rubbish and burn it. My mother, who was helping him, thought that it was a pity to burn this book, so she took it home and kept it. When she died she gave it to me. That is the history of Captain Sturt's diary." The man's romantic story appeared to be true. He was uneducated very much ;so, and unlettered men do not perpetrate literary frauds. As soon as opportunity offered, the author examined the diary, and found the man's statement to be correct. It was the diary which Sturt had kept in connection with the stirring expedition that we are about to con- sider. There was the daily record for at least eight months of his experiences in the wilds of Australia in 1845. Here, indeed, was a remarkable circumstance. Cap- tain Sturt was a great and good man. Among the pioneers of South Australia he stands unique. As we stated in our first chapter he was the discoverer of the province in 1830. It was he who discovered and named the River Murray, and who, as we shall further on see, 258 EXPLORATION. in a sketch of his life, ably served the young province in many ways. Here, then, was his diary that had been slumbering for about fifty years in the cottage of a laboring man till an article of mine in the newspaper called it forth. There was something fascinating in handling that manuscript volume the very book which Captain Sturt had handled some fifty-nine years ago, that he had carried from point to point in the Australian wilds, and in which he had written his daily experiences. The journal was purchased by the Public Library authorities, and is now one of the most valuable of several historical relics. On it we shall partly draw as we make the Sturt expedition live and move before us. ******* It is Saturday, August 10, 1844. The new settle- ment is not yet nine years old, and the city of Adelaide is still in a very primitive condition. Many of the road& are not made, in some places they are in a deplorable condition. Within the bounds of the city are many vacant places. Some of these are fenced in, and on them crops are growing. Though it is Saturday, the busy day of the week, the shops are shut. The whole community is astir. What is the explanation ? This is the day that Captain Sturt's party are going to start to explore the interior. In honor of the event the Government have proclaimed a public holiday. The heroic Eyre had failed to lift the veil that shrouded the interior of the continent from view, and now the gallant Sturt is about to attempt to do so. On this day he is to be banqueted. The feast is spread in Messrs. Stocks' " great ware- house," Grenfell-street. Many of the leading colonists are present, and Major O'Halloran takes the chair. Addressing the company the chairman says: " We are assembled here in great number to do all the honor in our power to one whom we claim as our own the discoverer of this province, a settler of South Australia one with whom we have been intimately associated, and of whom we feel justly proud. He is now about to separate from EXPLORATION. 259 us, and to proceed on an expedition of at least as great importance as any that has hitherto been undertaken throughout New Holland. His courage, energy, and science will now again be brought into full action in endeavouring to penetrate into the interior of this vast continent which as yet lies hid from the knowledge of civilised man. May Sturt, the selected of his country for so great and glorious an undertaking, be the fortunate individual reserved to solve the great problem, and, by withdrawing the veil which has hitherto darkened our gaze, gain fame's highest pinnacle." The gallant explorer rises to reply: " My friends It is a long time since I met an assembly such as this r and if the recollection of similar scenes for a moment subdues me, I trust you will excuse it. I have brought my young son with me to the meeting that he may witness and bear in memory, when he rises to manhood, the scenes of this day. I love the province, and since I have come to it have made many dear and valued friends from whom I am sorry to part. I will go forth inspirited by what I have seen, felt, and heard, and my men, who are present, will also remember it in the hour of danger. All that human effort or perseverance can do shall be done to accomplish the great undertaking in the ultimate success of which I have every confidence r and if I return I pray God that I might find all in pros- perity and happiness." The banquet is now over. In the front of the store a procession is arranged. Captain Sturt takes the lead, with Judge Cooper on one side and Major O'Hal- loran on the other. They are followed by more than one hundred of the pioneer settlers, mounted on horses. The loaded bullock drays, with the provisions and camp necessities, bring up the rear. Down King William- street the procession wends its way, past Government House, over the city bridge, and then on to the North- road. The farewell is said at " Dry Creek." How very suggestive. Before Captain Sturt returns he will meet with many a dry creek and will often be in need of water. 260 EXPLORATION. The exploring party consisted of : Captain Sturt (in command) Jno. M. Stuart (draughtsman) J. Lewis (mariner) L. Piesse (storekeeper) J. Poole (second in command) J. Browne (medical officer) D. G. Brock (scientist) ATTFNDANTS. D. Morgan R. Flood A. Turpin J. Kirby H. Foulkes J. Sullivan J. Cowley J. Mack G. Davenport J. Jones The expedition was provided with eleven horses, thirty bullocks, four drays, a spring cart, two hundred .sheep, and a supply of provisions for twelve months. The party also took a boat twenty-two feet long. The explanation is that some were of the opinion that in the interior of Australia there was an inland sea. The party reached Moomnde on the River Murray Eyre had gone north, and, finding no practicable route, had traversed the west coast. Sturt set out in an easterly direction. At Moorunde he appointed the men to their respective positions, and addressed them. He forbade any communication with the natives unless permission was given. A desire was expressed that they would work together in harmony, and Sturt asked them, as the journey was a perilous one, to seek the guidance and protection of Providence. After a few appropriate prayers had been read the expedition started. Sturt states how he watched it " with an anxiety that made him forgetful of everything else." How many of his men would be permitted to return to their homes ? Would his own body be laid in the desert, or would he be more successful in lifting the veil from the interior than Edward John Evre had been ? EXPLORATION. 261 For some distance the party followed the course of the Murray. Eyre (who was now at Moorunde as a special magistrate) travelled with them part of the way. Captain Sturt's attendant was a black boy named Tampawang. For several days the party tra- velled up the Darling River till they reached Laidley Ponds. At Cawndilla they formed a camp, and Cap- tain Sturt, Dr. Browne, two men, and a native named Topar made an incursion into the interior to the north- west. Captain Sturt's motive in so doing was to find a spot to which the whole party could move. As there were many natives around Cawndilla he was anxious to get his men away for fear of collision or misunder- standing. He discovered a water hole to which he gave the name of Parnari, and to this the whole party moved. After staying here for a few days they moved further on to a pond of water. Here Captain Sturt had a tank of water fixed in a dray, and he and Dr. Browne, with some of the men set out to penetrate still further into the interior. After several days exploration, Flood (one of the party) was fortunate enough to discover a creek containing water. This Sturt called Flood's Creek. At this creek there was food as well as water, and here the whole party camped. They saw few natives. One day the black boy (Tampawang) told Sturt that there were three natives in the distance. Sturt, being anxious if possible to get information, set off in pursuit, and finally overtook them. The blacks an old woman and two younger ones were terrified. No information could be gained from them. Sturt tried to make them understand where his camp was, and that it was his wish that the other natives should visit it. Some time after he was surprised to see seven blacks bending their steps to the camp, " keeping their eyes on the ground," and looking as though they were " marching to execution." Said Sturt: " A group of the most miserable human beings I ever saw. Poor emaciated creatures all of them, and who no doubt thought the mandate they had received was from a superior being, and obeyed it in fear and in trembling." -262 EXPLORATION. 'They sat down upon the ground, and were hospitably entertained, but no information could be obtained from them. After much wandering to and fro the party found a fine sheet of water. This place Sturt decided to make his depot. Here was a large party of natives who were quiet, inoffensive, and who shunned the presence of the whites. At this depot they were destined to wait six weary months. Said Captain Sturt: " It was not, however, until after we had run down every creek in the neigh- borhood, and had traversed the country in every direc- tion, that the truth flashed across my mind that we were locked up in the desolate and heated region into which we had penetrated as effectively as if we had wintered at the pole. . . . Providence had, in its .all- wise purposes, guided us to the only spot in that wide-spread desert where our wants could have been permanently supplied, but had there stayed our further progress into a region that almost appeared to be for- bidden ground." Here was both food and water for the animals and men. Sturt called this the Depot Glen. Here Dr. Browne had a serious attack of illness, -and the health of several of the men broke down. Sturt also was attacked with a fearful malady that proved to be scurvy. The leader of the party felt convinced that in the interior there was an inland sea. He decided to make another attempt to pierce more deeply into the heart of the continent. Taking with him his "draughtsman {John Macdouall Stuart) and two men, he again went forward. They came to a body of water. Here Sturt left the draughts man ]and one of the men, whilst he and a lad named Joseph tried to penetrate still further north. They took with them a horse and cart laden with sixty-nine gallons of water. Gradually the country became more inhospitable. Sturt says that they were " now in one of the most gloomy regions that man ever traversed. The stillness of death reigned around us, EXPLORATION. 263 no living creature was to be heard. Sand and spinifex were the universal covering of the land." They re- turned to the water where they had left the other two men. After scouring the country in various directions the party returned to Glen Depot. They had been absent from Adelaide nine months, when Mr. Poole, the second in command, who had been unwell for some time, became worse. " All his skin along the muscles turned black, and large pieces of spongy flesh hung from the roof of his mouth." Pathetic indeed are Sturt's references in his manu- script diary to Mr. Poole's illness. On April 26th. 1845, he wrote : " I regret to find that it is Mr. Browne's opinion that Mr. Poole's symptoms are assuming the more violent character of scurvy, in which case I fear his illness will be exceedingly protracted, as we have no comforts for him, neither have we the means of changing his diet. I pray that neither Mr. Browne nor myself (on whom the first symptoms still continue) may be similarly afflicted." April 28th. I regret to say that Mr. Poole is worse. I am realty concerned at the melancholy prospect he has before him." May 1st. " Mr. Poole has almost lost the use of his limbs, and he is daily getting worse." May 3rd. " Mr. Poole is now perfectly helpless, and the skin over his principal muscles is entirely dis- colored, and his sinews are slightly contracted. So long, however, as he is in a reclining posture, or is stationary, he feels no inconvenience; but when he moves or endeavours to stretch his limbs, he is put to great pain. His mouth is also in a bad state." In addition to this trouble there had not been any rain for several months. The water was decreasing; provisions were getting low. The animals had made .the ground bare for miles around the Depot. Said 264 EXPLORATION. Sturt: " Had the drought continued for a month longer than it pleased the Almighty to terminate it, the creek would have been as dry as the desert on either side." Towards the end of June they had been five months 'at the Depot, still the long drought had not broken up. On July 12, 1845, rain began to fall.'l I " How thankful was I for this change," said Sturt, " and how earnestly did I pray that the Almighty would still further extend His mercy to us." All night the rain came down, and the next morning the Creek had risen five inches. Sturt now decided that some of the party, with Mr. Poole, should return to Adelaide. A dray was specially fitted up for the sick man's convenience. The farewell between Sturt and his second in command was a most affecting one. " Poole wept bitterly." On July 16 the Depot was broken up, and Sturt and Dr. Browne (who had decided to remain with him), with the balance of the party, again went forth to pene- trate into the interior. Before they finally left the locality one of the party returning to Adelaide came back to Glen Depot with the sad intelligence that Poole was dead. .t In his manuscript diary Sturt wrote : July 15th. " About seven o'clock we were sur- prised by the sudden return of Joseph Cowley, who attended Mr. Poole as his servant, and who now came to announce to us that our unfortunate companion was no more. This sad intelligence has come like a thunder- bolt on myself and Mr. Browne." Apart from the sadness of the event the delay must have been very distressing to Captain Sturt. The long-looked for rain had corne, and, after being confined at Glen Depot for about six months, he must have been burning with desire to press on to the interior. On July 16th he wrote in his fine, nervous hand : " We had a melancholy ride this morning to the home returning drays, which we reached about noon. SOUTH AUSTRALIAN NATIVE WOMAN. EXPLORATION. 265 On an inspection of Mr. Poole's remains Mr. Browne has no doubt as to the immediate cause of his death. Some sudden internal rupture had carried him off. I have determined on depositing Mr. Poole's remains at the Depot, and once more to collect the party to be present at the funeral." July 17th. " Joseph arrived early to inform me that he had taken Mr. Poole's remains to the Depot. At twelve I went over to the Depot, at which place I read the funeral service over our departed comrade, who now sleeps hi the desert. As we had not the material with which to make a coffin I suggested that an open space should lie left at the bottom of the grave to be boarded over, so as to prevent the earth from fall- ing in. In this we laid Mr. Poole's remains, enveloped in a blanket and laid upon his mattress. I had his initials and the year cut deep in the tree under which he is buried, and I could not but feel that this painful ceremony was a fitting close to our detention on a spot on which our feelings had been so long and so painfully taxed." The party returning to Adelaide were now put under the leadership of Mr. Piesse, while Sturt and those who remained with him pushed on to the north-west. A fresh depot was formed to which they gave the name of Park Depot. From this point Sturt, accompanied by Browne, travelled towards the higher part of Lake Torrens, beyond Mount Hopeless. In doing so they surprised some natives on the top of a sandhill. " Two of them saw us approaching and ran away; the third could not make his escape before we were upon him, but he was dreadfully alarmed. In order to allay his fears Mr. Browne dismounted and walked up to him. On this the poor fellow began to dance, and to call out most vehemently, but. finding that all he could do was to no purpose, he sat down and began to cry. We managed, however, to pacify him, so much so that he mustered courage to follow us, with his companions, to our halting place. The wanderers of the desert had 266 EXPLORATION. their bags full of jerboas (a small animal which they had captured on the hills). . . . Our friends cooked all they had in hot sand, and devoured them entire, fur, skin, entrails and all, only breaking away the under jaw, and nipping off the tail with their teeth." Having ascertained that the country to the north- west of Lake Torrens was not practicable, they retraced their steps to Park Depot. It was now August 10, 1845. They had been absent from Adelaide twelve months. After setting everything in order at the depot, and leaving J. M. Stuart in charge, Sturt, Browne, and three men again went forward into the interior, taking pro- visions with them for fifteen weeks. They started on August 14, 1845. By August 23 they had travelled many miles into the interior. On that day the manuscript diary says : " We observed three natives collecting food in the open space, who allowed Mr. Browne to approach them, who had also dismounted for that purpose. They proved to be three women gathering and cleaning grass seeds. They were greatly alarmed, and when we asked where there was water (this was by signs) assured us most earnestly that there was plenty to the east, but none in the direction in which we were going. Pursuing our journey to the N.W., notwithstanding the incessant assurances of these poor creatures, we came upon their huts under a sand hill, opposite to a small and shallow pool of water. There were several children playing about in front of them who crept into these like so many puppies when they saw us. We kept wide of them, however, and, not wishing to annoy the natives, passed on in search of another pond, but not finding one we were obliged to turn back and encamp at a little distance from their huts." After travelling several days they came to what Sturt has called the " Stony Desert." Here, in the distance, they saw two natives, proving that this gloomy EXPLORATION. 267 region was not uninhabited. Of this stony desert Sturt wrote in his diary: " This plain fe a most remarkable feature in the geology of the interior. It is about ten miles in width ... so thickly covered with stones as to entirely exclude vegetation. The stones are indurated quartz. They are of all sizes, though mostly small. That these stones were deposited on the plain, and brought from the N.E. during some violent change in the central parts of the continent there can be no doubt." The travellers came to a forest. Here was to be heard once more the music of birds. In the forest was a native village, consisting of several huts, but the natives had fled. Stones for grinding seeds were lying about, also broken weapons of war and of the chase. Here they discovered a well of good water. Said Sturt: " The fact of there being so large a well at this point a well that must have required the united labors of a powerful tribe to complete assured us that this distant part of the interior was not without inhabitants, but at the same time it plainly indicated that water must be scarce. Indeed, considering that the birds of the forest had powers of flight to go anywhere they would, I could not but regard it as an unfavorable sign that so many had collected here." Now the travellers passed over a plain rent and torn by solar heat, with chasms in it many feet deep into which the horses' feet were likely to slip. They were now getting into still drier and more difficult country. Fortunately as they tra- velled still further into the interior they again came to a pool with water. Turning again to Sturt's manuscript diary we read : August 31st. " Towards the close of the day we traversed bare plains. The ground absolutely yawned under our horses, so large and deep were the fissures in it. It was to no purpose that we ran down every creek, and searched the flats for water. The whole left by the late rains had disappeared, and our hitting 268 EXPLORATION. upon any now must be considered as most providential. . . . We overtook an old native woman and her daughter as we were crossing a ridge, who were shifting their camp. Mr. Browne dismounted, and went to- them. The reason of their staying so quietly was that the old lady was lame. They pointed to the north as the place where they were going, and we intended to have followed them, but they suddenly disappeared. Close to us there was a small puddle at which the natives appear to have stopped until they could stop no longer the dregs of one of those pools left by the late rains, in which a stick would stand upright. To this all kinds of birds resorted, a sad indication to us of the dry state of the country when even the denizens of the air were driven to such extremity." Soon the question suggested itself to the mind of Sturt whether it was prudent to proceed further. Dr. Browne was unwell. The horses were becoming ex- hausted. They were some distance from water. Said Sturt: " If I had advanced and had found water all would have been well for the time at least; if not there would have been the certain loss of all our horses, and I know not if one of us would ever have returned to the depot, then more than four hundred miles distant, to tell the fate of his companions." Turning again to his recently discovered diary we find this entry : September 7th. -" The more anxiously we look out for rain the less likely is any to fall. Our position r in truth, is one of very great anxiety. . . We were now in a country in which I could not hope to find water; still I was reluctant to turn back. We pushed on for ten miles, when I stopped the cart, as the horses would necessarily be without water for three days, and went over to a high round hill to examine the country before I ultimately decided on turning back. From this sandhill the view was very extensive, and was over such a region of sand that I felt assured any further EXPLORATION. 269 effort in that direction, in the present dry state of the weather, would be \vorse than useless." He decided to fall back upon a creek, and to make this the basis of any further explorations. This was the only rational course to pursue, as they had come to a point at which both water and feed had failed. How reluctant he was to turn back the diary reveals. He was within one hundred and fifty miles of the centre of the continent. He tried to strike out in other direc- tions, but circumstances were against him. On Sep- tember 14th he wrote : " On a review of our position, .after taking the circumstances in which we are placed in all their bearings, I have determined on returning to the camp (Park Depot), from thence to try such other quarter as shall appear to open the widest door to sue* cess. This morning, in accordance with this resolution, we commenced our retreat, yet it is with a heav} 7 step that I retire from even this dreary region without the Accomplishment of the object for which the expedition was fitted out." We shall not follow them in their backward route till they reached the Park Depot. This was on October 2nd, 1845. They had been absent from the Depot .seven weeks, and had ridden 800 miles. They found Mr. Stuart and party well. Sturt now decided that Dr. Browne should return to Adelaide with all the party but three, whilst he him- self made another attempt to reach the centre. Dr. Browne was not willing to leave him. Browne was then left in charge of the Depot and the gallant explorer and his draughtsman (John M. Stuart) with two of the men again bent their steps to the interior. Referring to this new departure the diary says : " Left the Depot with Mr. Stuart, Morgan, and Mack, taking four riding and four pack horses, with ten weeks provisions. It is very doubtful how far I shall be able to go." 270 EXPLORATION. 'In this heroic attempt Captain Sturt again failed. He came to his old enemy, the " Stony Desert," and was driven back from want of water. The following extracts from his manuscript diary indicate his position : October 20. " From the summit of one of the ridges hereabouts we observed the Stony Desert ex- tending all around us, flanked by high, red sandhills, apparently covered with spinifex. Up to this point the country we had travelled was worse than any we had seen on our former journey. It was, indeed, a terrific region, and absolutely made me shudder as I gazed upon it. I conscientiously believe there is not a parallel to it on the earth's surface. Other deserts there are,. *but they present not the steel shod surface of this desperate region.' 1 October 21. "It was really painful to ride the horses over such terrible ground, unshod as they were. Their hoofs were almost to a level with the quick, and they limped at every step. I had now advanced fifty- three miles into this iron-clad desert, and had passed over thirty-eight miles of bare stones. My horses had been one night as well as ourselves without water, and we were forty one miles from the nearest of which we knew. Immediately in front of us there rose a succes- sion of ranges similar to that on which we stood as far as the eye could reach. Yet I sat for more than an hour on that burning hill before I could make up my mind to turn back, and I am free to observe that it was some unknown influence not my own inclination that absolutely determined me to do so. I accordingly descended the hill and retraced my steps to the place in which we had slept. I stopped there for an hour and half to let the horses feed, and then pushed on for water . . . arid halted at an hour and half after sunset about twelve miles short of it. My horses suffered greatly, and I lost one, which I was obliged to leave in a dying state." EXPLORATION. 271 October 23. " Few men could have laid themselves down to rest (if that might be called rest which was only a temporary cessation from exposure and fatigue) with more embarrassed and more disappointed feelings than I did last night. I had once again been forced back more than forty miles from the heartless and impracticable desert I had entered, and I really knew not which way to turn. I was unwilling to cede an inch of ground, yet I knew not in what direction I should soonest surmount the steel-clad region around me. I stood, as it were, in the centre of the shivered fragments- of some mountain chain. . . . There was no visible termination to that dark and stony region. To which- ever quarter I turned the same gloomy view presented itself. Yet I would not have turned from even such a scene as that if I had not felt convinced that my horses were not equal to the task, and that in pushing forward I should only sacrifice my own life, and the lives of those who were with me." " Arrived at a temporary place of safety I thought I might find a narrow passage across the desert to the X.E. I determined on riding a few miles in that direc- tion to ascertain if there were any hope for me before I finally retreated across the remainder of the stony plains." The diary shows that there was no hope. The inevitable had to be accepted. " The ground was more thickly covered than ever with the pointed fragments of rocks. . . They ap- peared to have been dashed against the ground and firmly imbedded in it when the surface was soft. I had advanced from ten to twelve miles, and it had been painful to ride the horses on such ground. Splinters from one to two inches flew from their hoofs as they struck them against the fragments of rocks they could not avoid. . . I found, therefore, that 1 had insur- mountable difficulties to contend against, and I made up my mind to turn back. It is a remarkable fact, and one that strongly proves the dry and uninhabitable 272 EXPLORATION. state of the country, on the line on which we had been moving we had not seen a living creature, either beast or bird, if I except the sea fowl. The death-like stillness of these solitudes is awful and oppressive. . . When I descended into the interior I expected to find to a certain distance a sandy desert, but 1 had every hope that it would terminate in an inland sea. I was not wrong in the general impression, but I had no idea of such a desert as that which really exists, the very geo- logical formation of which (if I may use the expression) gives the clearest evidence that the whole was once under water, and that some tremendous current that could only be caused by a great convulsion, has left its effects thus prominently stamped on its surface." The recently discovered diary from which we have so largely quoted shows that Sturt made efforts to find success in all directions, but they were fruitless. Finally the party retraced their steps to the Depot. On this trip " Cooper's Creek " was discovered, and was so named by Sturt in honor of the pioneer judge of the new settlement. When they arrived at Park Depot (also named " Grey Fort " in honor of Governor Grey) they found that it had been abandoned. A letter had been left behind informing Sturt that the men were ill through the water at the creek becoming impure, and they had gone back to the first Depot (Glen Depot). Soon Sturt and Browne again had the joy of meeting each other, and the party started on its homeward way. They reached Cawndilla in safety, where Sturt received news from Adelaide. He travelled on to Moorunde. Here a carriage was in waiting to convey him to Adelaide. On January 19, 1S46, he was once more in the primitive settlement with his wife and family. Now we sit down at another banquet. It is spread in the Freemasons' Tavern. About two hundred and fifty-six guests are present. Major O'Halloran again EXPLORATION. 273 occupies the chair. Among the speakers are men whom South Australians should ever hold in honor Judge Cooper, John Morphett, Edward Stephens, and James Hurtle Fisher. In his reply Captain Sturt said : *' They had sent him forth to the desert with every good wish, and they now met to greet him after his vain struggle with as much warmth as if the most brilliant .success had attended his efforts. Had he discovered a rich country he might have expected this, but the case had been very different. If he had penetrated far into the north it was only to expose its barrenness. He had indeed travelled through an awful desert, and had passed no hour since he left the Darling which was not one of anxiety, for they all knew that in this country there was no surface water, and it was to Providence more than to his own prudence that he owed his safety. Experi- ence, indeed, had assisted him, or he should not have had the pleasure that he now enjoyed. It was not a little that had driven him back when he was within so very short a distance of the point which he would have given almost his life to have gained. He would that it had been his lot to have found a better country, but when it did not exist it was impossible to find it. But, geographically speaking, as he had penetrated from latitude thirty degrees to the verge of the tropics there could be but little doubt now entertained that the desert extended over what would comprehend the whole of the interior. At all events, he had been the pioneer and might be useful to others."* * John McDouall Stuart (Sturt's draughtsman) in 1860 succeeded in reaching the centre of the Continent. Later on he crossed the Continent, but it was at the risk of his life, and the heroic deed shortened his days. He suffered from scurvy, and almost lost the use of his eyes. In his journal he gives thanks to God for preserving' his life, and then describes some of his sufferings "My right hand nearly useless to me by accident; total blindness after sunset, and nearly blind during the day; my limbs so weak and painful that 1 am obliged to be carried about; my body reduced to that of a living skeleton, and my strength that of infantile Wf-akness; a wreck of former days." 274 EXPLORATION. Dr. Browne outlived all the members of the gallant Sturt party. He saw the third generation of South Australians, and died in England in January, 1904, at a great age. THE DARKE EXPEDITION. About the same time that Captain Sturt set out upon his central expedition another party was fitted out to open up the country in the north-west. In this expedition John Bentham Neales (to whom further reference will be made) took a great interest. His was the organising spirit. Of Mr. Darke it is said that he was a man " of great courage and scientific attainments, with a large colonial experience as an explorer and sur- veyor." Tents, provisions, ammunition. &c., were shipped to Port Lincoln. This was the starting point. The party left in August, 1844. They had to pass over some of the ground that Edward John Eyre two or three years before had trodden The expedition succeeded in getting as far as the Gawler Ranges, but were driven back by the inhospitable character of the country. On the return journey Mr. Darke was mortally speared by the blacks, and was buried in the desert. THE HORKOCKS' EXPEDITION. John A. Horrocks, the leader of this expedition, was a young man of splendid physique, who had had some experience in the work of exploration. In July, 1846 r he and a party set out to penetrate the interior. Un- deterred by the tragic experiences of Eyre, his aim was to cross the head of Spencer's Gulf, and then to travel in the direction of Western Australia. Horrocks was better prepared for the journey than Eyre. As a guide he had the experiences of the latter explorer, and was provided with a camel, the only one in the colony. He also took with him a flock of goats. At Mount Re- markable he was informed by the natives that there was a pass across the range in the direction of what is now known as Port Augusta. The expedition went EXPLORATION. 27i> through the pass, and made for Depot Creek, where Eyre had camped some five years before. At Depot Creek it was decided that a part of the company should strike out in a north-westerly direction. Horrocks, 8. T. Gill (the artist of the expedition), and Kilroy formed the party. They reached a lake called by Horrocks Lake Gill, now known as Lake Dutton. Here a tragic circumstance transpired. Horrocks wished to shoot a bird that he saw to add to the collection they were making. Unfortunately while he was handling the gun the charge exploded, wounding him in the face. The wound was a serious one, and the party had to retrace their steps. After suffering great pain. Hor- rocks reached his home at Penwortham, and passed away three days after his arrival. The famous " Hor- rocks' Pass " will ever keep him in memory. He was young in years, and if his life had been spared no doubt he would have been one of the most famous of Australian explorers. CHAPTER XVII. SKETCHES OF THE PIONEER EXPLORERS. The " Tight Little Island," of whieh we are all so proud, has produced some famous men, but since the Saxon invasion she has produced no men of finer type than those of whom we have now to speak, In our first chapter we followed Captain Matthew Flinders on his voyage of discovery to Terra Australis, and sailed with him around the south coast. We then saw Captain Charles Sturt in his whaleboat, sailing down the Murrumbidgee, shooting into a noble river that eye of white man had never seen, and then sailing on for hundreds of miles into the heart of an absolutely unknown country. In our last chapter we saw the same gallant explorer trying to lift the veil from the centre of the Australian continent. We also followed the heroic Edward John Eyre as he fought his way against fearful odds from Southern to Western Aus- tralia. These are the men grand glorious men who have helped to make the Empire, and the reader would like to know more of them. Who were their parents ? Where were they born ? What was their history before they came to the great Lone Land ? Where and how did they end their days ? These are questions which, in the nature of things, must suggest themselves to our minds. The story that we have to tell is still full of thrilling interest. Verily " truth is stranger than fiction." CAPTAIN MATTHEW FLINDERS. He came from a race of surgeons. It was to this profession that his father belonged. Matthew was born SKETCHES OF THE PIONEER EXPLORERS. 277 on March 16, 1774, at Donington, in Lincolnshire. How often the career of a man is decided by the associa- tions of his youth. It was so in the case of young Flinders. He read Robinson Crusoe, and this book sent him to sea. Drugs and the anatomy of the human body had no charm for him they were too prosaic the goal of his ambition was to sail over unknown seas. He gave himself to the study of geometry and naviga- tion, and then set sail upon the ocean. Young Flinders was on board the " Bellerophon " when Lord Howe won his signal victory over the French on the 1st of June, 1794. He next sailed with Captain Bligh on a voyage to the South Sea Islands. The next time we meet with him he is on board the " Reliance " as mid- shipman, bound for the young settlement on the eastern coast of New Holland. It was " his passion for explor- ing new countries " that " led him to embrace an oppor- tunity of going out upon a station, which, of all others, presented the most ample field for his favorite pursuit." Such is his testimony. It was in September, 1795, that the " Reliance " rode into Port Jackson, New South Wales. The surgeon of the vessel was a young man named George Bass. Like Flinders he was thirsting for ad- venture. While the " Reliance " was stationed at Port- Jackson these two young men secured a boat, only eight feet long, which they christened the " Tom Thumb." In this small craft, with only a lad to assist them, they spent some time in exploring the Australian coast. It was a risky experiment, but full of romance. They fairly revelled in it, for were they not sailing where boat of civilised man had never been. Sometimes they were in danger of wreck, and at least on one occasion they were at the mercy of the blacks. Their supply of water was getting low. The " Tom Thumb " was anchored, and they proceeded to examine the coast. Soon they were surrounded by natives, but Flinders created diversion for them in a singular way. One or two of these blacks had been brought into contact with 278 SKETCHES OF THE PIONEER EXPLORERS. whites before, and had had their hair cut. Others now wished to have the same distinction, so, whilst Flinders' powder was drying, he took a large pair of scissors and set to work " upon the eldest of four or five chins pre- sented to him." He says: " As great nicety was not required, the shearing of a dozen of them did not occupy me long." Everything " being prepared for a retreat . . . it was not without stratagem that we suc- ceeded in getting down to the entrance of the stream, where depth of water placed us out of their reach." On this trip Flinders discovered indications of the coal fields that have made New South Wales famous. For a time the two young adventurers were separated. Bass took a whale boat and set out on a voyage of exploration. He sailed for about 600 miles along the coast, and from what he saw surmised the existence of a strait separating Van Dieman's Land (Tas- mania) from the Australian continent. In after years, speaking of this trip, Flinders said: " A voyage expressly undertaken for discovery in an open boat, and in which 600 miles of coast, mostly in a boisterous climate, was explored, has not perhaps its equal in the annals of maritime history." The Governor of New South Wales furnished Flinders with a sloop of twenty -five tons to further ex- plore the Australian coast, and to look for the strait the existence of which Bass had surmised. In this expedition Bass was associated with Flinders. They circumnavigated Van Dieman's Land; and the Strait separating it from the mainland has ever since been known and mapped as Bass' Strait. After their return to Port Jackson Bass sailed for England, and Flinders went on another exploratory tour around the Australian coast.* * Bass had a mysterious end. He returned to England, iind then sailed again for New South Wales in the Venus. The vessel arrived safely at her destination. On the return voyage both the Venus and her crew mysteriously disappeared. What became of the adventurous Bass no one knows. SKETCHES OF THE PIONEER EXPLORERS. 279 The " Reliance " was ordered to England, and Flinders returned in the vessel to his native land. Hitherto the South Coast of Australia was un- known. There was a desire among authorities in the Old Land that it should be explored. The Admiralty took the matter up; a man-of-war was fitted out; and Flinders was put in command. With this expedition we have dealt in our first chapter. We there took leave of Flinders at Encounter Bay. From thence he proceeded to Port Jackson, New South Wales. After spending some time in port he set sail examin- ing the east and north coast of Australia, sailing right round the Australian continent. Having accomplished all that he desired, Flinders determined to sail for the Old Land. The " Investi- gator " was found to be unseaworthy, so the " Porpoise " was secured. It was Flinders' desire to sail home as a passenger. This would give him time to prepare the results of his voyage for the Admiralty. Command of the " Porpoise " was given to Lieutenant Fowler. No doubt his distinguished passenger and old commander was looking forward to a safe, speedy, and pleasant voyage. But such was not to be. From this time misfortune dogged Flinders' steps. The vessel struck on a reef. There were two other ships in the wake of the " Porpoise." One of these also struck. Fortu- nately only three lives were lost. The valuable col- lection of Australian plants that Flinders was conveying to England was lost, and other curiosities which he had collected. In the morning the shipwrecked party found shelter above water mark, and water and provisions were secured from the wreck. The cutter was then made ready, and Flinders sailed back to Port Jackson for help. Governor King's surprise can be imagined when he again saw in the flesh one whom he thought to be well on his way to the Old 280 SKETCHES OF THE PIONEER EXPLORERS. Land. The " Rolla," a vessel bound for China, and two smaller ships, were sent to rescue the wrecked mariners. .Governor King offered Flinders the use of the " Cumberland," a vessel of twenty-nine tons burden, with which to get to England, if possible, without delay. On September 29, 1803, he sailed out of Sydney harbor. On arrival at the scene of the wreck the whole party were found to be well. Flinders then chose ten officers and men to sail with him in the " Cumberland " to England, the remainder of the party went on board the " Rolla," bound for China, or on the other two vessels which were to return to Port Jackson. Poor Flinders ! One misfortune after another over- took him. The "Cumberland" needed repairs. Flinders was not aware that there was war between France and England, so he called in at Mauritius. Here he and his crew w T ere taken prisoners. Burning with anxiety to reach England, and to make known to the world the results of his explorations, his position was desperate. He tells how he was conducted to a large house in the middle of the town, and through a long dark entry, up a dirty staircase into a room. The chamber contained two truckle beds, a small table, and two rush bottomed chairs. He stripped and got into bed, but not to sleep. Between the mosquitoes above, and the bugs below, as well as the novelty of the position, it was near daybreak before he fell asleep. Later on he says : " We, who were shut up in the middle of the town, and from having been three months confined to a vessel of twenty-nine tons, were much in need of exercise. The heat and want of fresh air were not the worst evils. Our undefended pallet beds were besieged by swarms of bugs and mosquitoes, and the bites of these noxious insects upon bodies ready to break out with scurvy produced effects more than usually painful. Being almost covered with inflamed spots, some of which had become ulcers on my legs and feet I SKETCHES OF THE PIONEER EXPLORERS. 281 wrote to the captain general requesting the assistance of a surgeon." Mr. Aken, of the " Cumberland," was released. He took with him to England several dispatches from Flinders. After about three years of imprisonment Flinders wrote : " The state of incertitude in which I remained after nearly three years of anxiety brought on a dejec- tion of spirits which might have proved fatal, had I not sought, by constant occupation, to force my mind from a subject so destructive to its repose. I reconstructed some of my charts on a larger scale . . and com- pleted for the Admiralty an enlarged copy of the " In- vestigator's " log book. The study of the French lan- guage was pursued with increased application. But what assisted most in dispelling the melancholy was a packet of letters from England, bringing intelligence of my family and friends, and the satisfactory information that Mr. Aken had safely reached London with all the charts, journals, letters, and instruments committed to his charge." One after another other prisoners were exchanged and released, but poor Flinders remained. In June, 1810, through the good offices of Mr. Hope, Commissary of Prisoners, Flinders was released on parole, after an imprisonment of nearly seven years. To add to his misfortunes efforts were made by some of the French to deprive him of the honor of his discoveries on the South Australian coast. When he reached home he spent the remainder of his life in preparing for publication his " Account of a Voyage to Terra Australis." He died just about the time that it was published, July 14, 1841. The ruling passion of his life was strong in death. Among his last words were these: " I know that in future days of ex- ploration my spirit will rise from the dead and follow the exploring ships." 282 SKETCHES OF THE PIONEER EXPLORERS. CAPTAIN CHARLES STURT. A man beloved by the South Australian pioneers. Long as the province endures his memory will be venerated. He was born in India in 1795. His father was a judge. In early life Charles was sent to England. He was educated at Harrow, and had some of the bitter experiences that were common to school boys in those days. Charles was " fag " to the Duke of Dorset. On one occasion this aristocratic youth sent him to the top of a high tree to rob a rook's nest, and then thrashed him because one of the eggs was broken in his descent. Young Sturt replied by throw- ing a brick bat at his persecutor. In 1813 he joined the army as ensign, and saw active service on the continent and in Canada. For some time he served in Ireland. Here he passed through some stirring experiences in connection with the Whiteboy organization. The numerous evictions in Ireland lay at the basis of this society. It spread rapidly through many counties, and for a time estab- lished a reign of terror. Sturt was called out one night to defend a farmhouse attacked by the Whiteboys. His experience on this occasion was such as to destroy all sympathy with Irish patriotism. He found a farm house in ruins and among the debris was the dead body of a beautiful girl, and the lifeless bodies of other mem- bers of the family. In 1825 Sturt was gazetted captain, and a year later he sailed for New South Wales in command of a detachment of his regiment. For some time he acted as Governor Darling's private secretary. He then led an exploring party into the interior, and discovered and named the River Darling. With his romantic trip down the Murray and through Lake Alexandrina, we have dealt in our first chapter. He then returned to New South Wales, and was sent on military service to Norfolk Island, a convict settlement. Here he had some exciting adventures SKETCHES OF THE PIONEER EXPLORERS. 283 with the convicts, and succeeded in stamping out a mutiny. After putting things in order at Norfolk Island, Captain Sturt, in ill-health and threatened with blind- ness, sailed for England. Here he published an account of his explorations, and retired from the army. Returning to New South Wales he began sheep farming. We next find him leading an overland expedition in charge of cattle to the new settlement in South Aus- tralia. The journey was both difficult and dangerous, and Sturt and his party were often in jeopardy from hostile blacks. He left New South Wales with his cattle in May, 1838, and reached the new settlement on the Adelaide plains at the end of August of the same year. The new colony had not then been in existence four years. Among those to welcome him was Edward John Eyre. After returning to New South Wales he accepted office as Surveyor-General of South Australia, sold his cattle station, and removed with his wife and family to Adelaide. His next appointment was that of Registrar - General. In 1844 he set out upon the heroic attempt to reach the centre of the Australian continent, which we nar- rated in our previous chapter. In 1847 he went on leave of absence to England, and received the gold medal of the Royal Geographical Society. Two years later he returned to Adelaide. When the new Legislative Council, on a more repre- sentative basis was formed, in 1851, Captain Sturt was appointed Colonial Secretary. A few years later he retired from the Government service, and received a pension of 600 a year in recognition of the services that he had rendered to the colon}'. Captain Sturt had a great love for South Australia. Said he: " Wher- ever I may go, to whatever part of the world my destinies may lead me, I shall yet hope one day to return to my 2S4 SKETCHES OF THE PIONEER EXPLORERS. adopted home, and make it my resting place between 1 this world and the next." It may interest the South Australian reader to know that Captain Start's home in the colony was at the Grange, near the seashore, a few miles to the west of Adelaide. Speaking of it he said: " The Grange is a most healthy spot. It has fine, lofty, umbrageous trees, like oaks, the moisture having drawn their limbs, horizontal. It is the most English looking place in the province." In 1853 Captain Sturt again sailed for England- He died suddenly in England on June 16, 1869. Cap- tain Sturt was designated for the honor of knighthood,, but died before it was conferred. His widow survived him many years, and bore the title of Lady Sturt. The name of this pioneer will be handed down to future generations in the District of Sturt, south of Adelaide, a street in Adelaide, and in a small river that bears his name. What has specially impressed the author as he lias followed Captain Sturt from place to place has been his unwavering confidence in God his recognition of an over-ruling Providence. EDWARD JOHN EYRE. A man of heroic, determined spirit, who for manjr years led a most eventful life. Eyre came from an old and honorable English family. He was the son of a clergyman, and was born in Yorkshire in 1815, the year of the battle of Waterloo. It has been said of him that he was " a grave, quiet, self-centred, composed boy; remarkable only for the dogged resolution with which he pursued any amusement, study, or occupation he had once begun." He was sent to the Louth Gram- mar School, at which Alfred Tennyson had been edu- cated. Young Eyre was a hard worker at school, and must have had some literary talent, as one of his masters predicted that some day he would be " a blazing SKETCHES OF THE PIONEER EXPLORERS. 285 star in the literary horizon." Arithmetic and algebra seem to have been his favorite studies; he also acquired some knowledge of chemistry and astronomy. In his childhood Eyre was not without adventures, and on two or three occasions narrowly escaped drowning. At the age of seventeen, with 400 in his pocket, Eyre sailed for the young settlement in New South Wales. Here he began life as a sheep farmer. This -was in the year 1833. Five years later we first meet with him in the history of South Australia. He came overland from New South Wales to Adelaide with a herd of cattle. On the way he discovered a lake, and named it Hindmarsh, after the Governor. Returning to New South Wales he made a second trip in 1839, bringing with him one thousand sheep and six hundred Tiead of cattle. It was shortly after this that we find Trim in the pioneer court. It was in this way: The overland trips, in the early days, were difficult and dangerous. For months those who were engaged in them were away from civilization. There was no clearly defined route. The pioneers in those enter- prises had to travel through unknown country. Day by day they had to grope their way through mallee scrub, and gum tree forests. In summer the heat was intense, and sometimes the dust blinding; in winter the cold was biting and the rain drenching. At night time they hobbled their horses and outspanned their oxen. A rude shelter was made. The fire was lit and the pot boiled. The party then sat down to damper and mutton. The meal over one or two would keep watch while the others unrolled their bedding and lay down to rest. There was very little change of diet, and in sum- mer it was sometimes difficult to find water. They were liable to attacks from hostile blacks, and there was the possibility of the party losing their bearings. When the journey was successfully ended, and they reached the little settlement on the plains of Adelaide, is it any wonder if they went in for a little recreation ? After this second journey Eyre and some other over- 286 SKETCHES OF THE PIONEER EXPLORERS. landers had a banquet. Evidently they did not sit down first and count the cost. The banquet was over and the bill came in. It amounted to 180. Eyre and his fellow overlanders refused to pay the high price demanded, regarding the charge as extortionate. The case came before the pioneer court and a verdict was- given for the payment of 151. This incident is, in- deed a sidelight upon the social life of our pilgrim fathers. It furnishes us with a clue to the prices charged by some of the pioneer caterers. There were six hams, 7 17/6; six roast geese at 1 each; two legs of mutton, 1; sixteen chickens, 3 12/; twelve pairs of fowls, 8 12/: eight pairs of pigeons at 10/ a pair; three dozen tongues, 7 16/; twelve dozen eggs at 6/ per dozen; thirty-six Ibs. of butter at 3/6 per lb.; twenty Ib, of jam. 4. Other articles in the same proportion soon brought the bill to 180. It was necessary to charge extortionate prices when one of the cooks was paid 1 per day. Of the overlanders who celebrated the end of their journeys in the way that we have indicated, an old pioneer has said: " This class of colonists were mostly all in the prime of youth, and of good families, but find- ing no outlet for their enterprise and love of adventure in England, sought it at the Antipodes. Amongst them, therefore, was found a degree of polish and open- ness rarely to be looked for in such a mode of life; and in the distant bush one would unexpectedly stumble on a finished gentleman in the bushman's garb of blue shirt,, soiled cabbage tree hat, with broad black ribbon, and booted and spurred, and with the indispensable stock whip in his hand, and last, not least, a short black clay pipe in his mouth. Yet many of these worthies had been educated at Eton and Cambridge."* Not long after the events which we have just nar- rated Eyre and his party set out to explore the interior. With this heroic enterprise the last chapter has dealt- * "Reminiscences:" Alexander Tolmer. SKETCHES OF THE PIONEER EXPLORERS. 287 He returned in July, 1841, and a banquet was tendered to him. He was then appointed Resident Magistrate at Moorunde, on the River Murray. We have spoken of the attacks made by the blacks on overland parties. The object of the appointment of a magistrate was to try to bring about a better understanding between the blacks and the whites. In the attainment of this object Eyre was eminently successful. He obtained the con- fidence and the goodwill of the natives, and had great influence over them; travelling alone from wurlie to wurlie, and from tribe to tribe up the Murray and the Darling. Said he: " I have gone almost alone among hordes of fierce and bloodthirsty savages, as they were considered, and have stood singly among them in the remote and trackless wilds, when* hundreds were con- gregated around, without ever receiving the least injury or insult. In my first visits to the more distant tribes I found them shy, alarmed, and suspicious. But soon learning that 1 had no wish to injure them they met me with readiness and confidence. My wishes became their law: they conceded points to me that they would not have done to their own people, and on many occasions cheerfully underwent hunger, thirst, and fatigue to serve me." In 1844 Eyre retired from his position as Magistrate at Moorunde. Two years later he was appointed Lieu- tenant-Governor in New Zealand in association with Sir George Grey. This position he held for six years, giving full satisfaction to the Imperial authorities. Here his love of adventure led him into danger. In com- pany with some Maories he climbed a high snow-capped mountain. In the descent one of the Maories fell a depth of 1.500 feet. Eyre had a narrow escape, but his presence of mind saved him. His foot slipped, but dashing his iron shod pole into the snow he maintained his position. The whole night was spent on the moun- tain on the brink of destruction. The descent was safely negotiated the next day. After spending his full term in New Zealand he returned to England, and was 288 SKETCHES OF THE PIONEER EXPLORERS. appointed Lieutenant-Governor of St. Vincent, in the West Indies. Here he remained for eix years. We are now approaching one of the most painful periods of his life. The awful struggle that he had with adverse circumstances in the Australian bush must have been a bitter experience, much more so, perhaps, that which we have now to relate. One of the most difficult positions in the service of the Crown was the Governorship of Jamaica. To this Eyre was appointed. Here an insurrection broke out, in which a mulatto named Gordon, an educated man and member of the Legislature, seems to have played a prominent part. At Morant Bay hundreds of negroes, armed with muskets, bayonets, cutlasses, fish spears, and long poles, with billhooks attached, rose against the whites. The volunteers were overpowered. Several were killed. The remainder, in company with some prominent whites (among whom was the rector and his sons) took refuge in the court house. The negroes held a consultation, and then set fire to the courthouse. The inmates succeeded in making their escape to the school house. This, too, was set on fire. As the burn- ing roof fell in the victims tried to escape; some were shot by the negroes, some cut down with cutlasses, and others killed with sticks. The tongue of the rector (the Rev. Mr. Herschell) was cut out. Flushed and mad- dened with their success the rioters then proceeded to stir up all the negroes in the colony, and thus to create a general insurrection. As soon as Governor Eyre heard of the outbreak he called the Executive together, proclaimed martial law- over the disaffected district, gathered a force, and set out for Morant Bay. Paul Bogle, the leader of the Morant Bay massacre, was captured. The rebels were hemmed in. and the insurrection crushed. Gordon was arrested, court-martialled, and hung on the ruins of the courthouse. Many negroes were put to death, some were flogged, and hundreds of their huts were burned. SKETCHES OF THE PIONEER EXPLORERS. 289 When the news reached England Governor Eyre's action was resented by a section of the community. A Royal Commission was appointed to enquire into his conduct. The finding of the Commission was: That whilst the Governor had acted with skill and prompti- tude the punishments inflicted were excessive. The Imperial authorities wrote to Governor Eyre to this effect: That while they appreciated his prompt action in checking the insurrection they considered that it would be wise if some gentleman who had not been obliged to take sides in the recent trouble should be entrusted with the duty of inaugurating a new con- stitution for the island. This was the Governor's re- call. All England was stirred. The biographer of the late Professor Huxley (his son) says: The question of Governor Eyre's justification in the execution of Gordon stirred England profoundly. " It became the touch- stone of ultimate political convictions. Men who had little concern for ordinary politics came forward to defend a great constitutional principle which they con- ceived to be endangered. A committee was formed to prosecute Governor Eyre on a charge of murder. There- upon a counter committee was organised for the defence of the man who, like Cromwell, judged that the people preferred their real security to forms, and had presum- ably saved the white population of Jamaica by striking promptly at the focus of rebellion."* Over the legality of Governor Eyre's conduct men who had been the dearest friends were divided. The leading spirit in the committee formed for the prosecu- tion of the Governor for murder was John Stuart Mill. In antagonism to him was Professor Tyndall. Said the latter: " Mr. John Stuart Mill has more than once recommended the outspoken manly utterance of con- viction. I hope he will bear it with good temper when he finds such utterance to be in opposition to him- self. He doubtless sees in himself the assertor of con- stitutional principles. I see in him the persecutor of a - "Life of Professor Huxley." 290 SKETCHES OF THE PIONEER EXPLORERS. man who has done the State incalculable service. I see him endeavoring to fix the brand of murder upon one who (whatever his legal errors may have been) saved the colony which he ruled from excesses a million times more terrible " more terrible than the excesses said to have been committed by the Governor's subordinates. Professor Huxley, who has dedicated his " Lay Sermons and Reviews " to " His Dear Tyndall," on this occasion was in antagonism to him. Writing to Charles Darwin, Huxley said: "I am glad to hear from Spencer that you are on the right (that is my) side in the Jamaica business. But it is wonderful how people, who com- monly act together, are divided about it." In com- menting upon the case Huxley said: " I desire to see Mr. Eyre indicted, and a verdict of guilty in a criminal court obtained." This statement reveals not the cool, calculating philosopher but the heated partizan, who seems to have been thirsting for the condemnation of a man. Writing to Professor Tyndall he expressed a hope that their friendship was strong enough to stand any strain that might be put upon it, at the same time expressing grief that they should be ranged in opposite camps over the Eyre controversy. Thomas Carlyle, to whom Governor Eyre was un- known in person, was deeply moved by sympathy for him. He was now an old man. Writing to a friend he said: " Yesterday, in spite of the rain, I got up to the Eyre Committee, and let myself be voted to the chair r such being the post of danger on this occasion. Poor Eyre ! I am heartily sorry for him, and for the English nation, which makes such a dismal fool of itself. Eyre r it seems, has suddenly fallen from 6.000 a year into almost zero, and has a large family, and needy kindred dependant upon him. Such is his reward for saving the West Indies, and hanging one incendiary mulatto,, well worth the gallows if T can judge." Froude. in his history of " Thomas Carlyle' s Life in London." says : " In submission to geneial clamour Eyre had been recalled in disgrace. He had applied SKETCHES OF THE PIONEER EXPLORERS. 291 for other employment, and had been refused. He had several children, and was irretrievably ruined. It was (Carlyle said to me) as if a ship had been on fire; the captain, by immediate and bold action, had put the fire out, and had been called to account for having flung a bucket or two of water into the hold beyond what was necessary. He had damaged some of the cargo, perhaps, but he had saved the ship." Alfred Tennyson sent a contribution to the Eyre defence fund as a tribute to the nobleness of the man, and as a protest against the spirit in which a servant of the State, who had saved one of the islands of the Em- pire and many English lives, was hunted down. Evidently the question was a very involved one. It was not possible for people living in England to enter into all the peculiarities of the case. That John Edward Eyre was a just, humane man is evident from his gracious treatment of the Australian aborigines in his early days, of which we have spoken in this sketch. He was their advocate and their defender. He was too honorable and too kind-hearted to do them a wrong. That he was a cool, calculating, heroic man a man not likely to give way to panic is demonstrated by his conduct on the tragic exploratory expedition with which we have dealt in the previous chapter. That mistakes may have been made in the grave crisis with which he had momentarily to deal is only to be expected. What was the opinion of the whites of Jamaica in relation to the case ? The Bishop of Jamaica said: " I have an earnest sympathy with Mr. Eyre. I warmly admire his character and history as far as they are known to me, and I firmly believe that the speedy suppression of the murderous insurrection in Jamaica is attributable, under God's providence, to the promptitude, courage, and judgment with which he acted under circumstances of peculiar difficulty and danger." Sir General Gomm, who had once commanded the forces in Jamaica, said: " I know Jamaica I know it intimately most intimately. . . It is my firm belief 292 SKETCHES OF THE PIONEER EXPLORERS. that the means adopted by Governor Eyre were pressed upon him by difficulties and dangers rarely paralleled. It is my deliberate opinion that he saved the island of Jamaica to the British Crown." Before Governor Eyre left Jamaica the clergy pre- sented him with an address in which it was stated " That he saved the island from the most imminent peril of a general insurrection, in which they knew him to have been actuated by the purest motives." In replying to a farewell address the Governor said: " However able or impartial the persons may be by whom my conduct has been enquired into and adjudi- cated upon, it is impossible that persons imperfectly acquainted with the negro character, with the country, and with the circumstances that surrounded me at the time, can judge adequately or justly, after the event, of the necessity or propriety of the action I found it imperative to take under a great emergency. I now retire into private life, dismissed from the public service after nearly a lifetime spent in it. but I have at least the consolation of feeling that there has been nothing in my conduct to merit it, nothing to occasion self-re- proach, nothing to regret. . . I carry with me. in my retirement, the proud consciousness that at all times, and under all circumstances. I have endeavoured, to the best of my ability, to do my duty as a servant of the Crown faithfully, fearlessly, and irrespective of personal considerations. ' ' The British Government granted Mr. Eyre a pen- sion, and he retired to Devonshire, to live many years cherishing, no doubt, a conviction that a cloud had settled over his life, and that he had suffered a great in- justice. He passed away in December, 1901, in his eighty-seventh year. PERSONAL NOTES. When I first set to work, a few years ago. to gather material for these chapters, the reading of Eyre's " Dis- coveries in Central Australia," strangely moved me. SKETCHES OF THE PIONEER EXPLORERS. 293 As I followed him from point to point in that awful attempt to reach Western Australia across country that was a terra incognita my imagination was fired. As a South Australian born and bred the country was known to me. I had no idea that the gallant explorer was then living, so completely had he passed out of sight. When tidings came to me that the gallant Eyre was still alive I despatched a letter to England. It was like an arrow shot at a venture; but it found its mark. It was my joy to receive a letter from him a letter that to me was like a resurrection from the dead. The following is a copy: " Walreddon Manor, Tavistock, " Devon, Nov. 2, 1900. " Dear Sir, " I am much obliged by your letter dated September 21, 1900, which duly reached me on October 29th. It takes me back more than a generation ago to the foundation of the colony of South Australia, with its early efforts, struggles, and anxieties, of which I may indeed say quorum pars parva fui, for my share in which I am more than compensated by the wonderful progress and prosperity which the colony has attained . You refer to my taking the first sheep overland from New South Wales to Adelaide. I look back to that most successful undertaking in leading the way for the numerous flocks which subsequently followed, and it is a proud recollection with me that on this expedition,, as well as in all my previous and subsequent travels in Australia, I never once came into collision with, or in any way injured a single one of the numerous native tribes through which I passed on so many occasions. It is always gratifying to learn that my services are appreciated, and especially so by one, who, belonging to a subsequent generation, cannot be influenced by any personal feelings towards me. " It is fifty-six years since I left South Australia, and I am now in my eighty-sixth year. 294 SKETCHES OF THE PIONEER EXPLORERS. " My wife has supplied me with the only photo- graph I am able to send you, as I have not been photo- graphed since it was taken long years ago. " Yours very sincerely, " EDWD. JOHN EYRE." At the end of December in the same year I forwarded to him a copy of my " South Australian Romance," dealing more especially with the religious history of the province in the early days. For this I received the following reply, interesting not only on account of the personality of the writer, but because of the light that it throws upon the early history of the province : " Walreddon Manor, " Tavistock, " Devon, Jan. 23rd, 1901. " My Dear Sir, " Four days ago T received your book, for which I again thank you. I sat down at once and read it right through, with great interest. It recalled to my memory scenes and persons of the long, long past, for I was well acquainted with most of the early colonists, and had some share in developing the progress of the colony. I arrived at Adelaide just as Captain Hind- marsh was about to embark in a man-of-war upon giving up his Government, and was just in time to be intro- duced to him before he left. Of his successor (Colonel <5awler) I saw and knew a great deal, for he was most kind to me. He was in the highest sense of the words a just and good man, and truly religious. I was pre- sent with him when he laid the foundation of the Wes- leyan Methodist Chapel, on November 27th, 1838, and I remember well that the substance of his address was to the effect that, although his own church differed in form from that of the Wesleyan Methodist, yet the essentials of the religion of both were identical, and he used the re- -markable expression that if the wine were good the form of the cup from which it was administered was of minor importance, adding, impressively, ' I count it so.' SKETCHES OF THE PIONEER EXPLORERS. 295 " You say truly that to the judgment and foresight of Colonel Light the colony of South Australia owes everything, for there is no other site where its capital could have been so successfully established as the one he so fortunately insisted upon in spite of opposition, And which now is the magnificent and flourishing city of Adelaide. Could he now see the happy result of labor, anxiety, and firmness well might he exclaim: Si monu- me/ntum requiris circumspice." " Very sincerely yours, " EDWD. JOHN EYRE." JOHN AINSWORTH HORROCKS. He was born at Penwortham Lodge, Lancashire, England, in 1818, and came from an honorable and wealthy family. About two years after the founding of South Australia Horrocks left the Old Land and came to the new province. After his arrival Edward John Eyre told him of a place suitable for settlement nearly one hundred miles from Adelaide. Accompanied by one of his men, Horrocks set out for the place described to him by Eyre. By the aid of the stars and a compass they found it. It was the beautiful locality ever since known as Penwortham. It was so called by Horrocks after his birthplace in old England. How many to- day ride through the beautiful village of Penwortham, on the road to Clare, quite unconscious of this fact. How few know that in the old churchyard of Pen- wortham, not far from the road, there lies the body of one of the most promising of our pioneer explorers, and in the church, close by, a monument to his memory. Before building a house at Penwortham Horrocks slept for some months in the base of a hollow gum tree. After suitable premises were erected he purchased some sheep that had come overland from New South Wales, and in company with his brother began sheep farming. At Penwortham he had some exciting experiences. Though kind to the blacks they speared his sheep, and 296 SKETCHES OF THE PIONEER EXPLORERS. almost killed one of his shepherds with their waddies. After three or four years residence at Penwortham Hor- rocks visited the Old Land. Returning to South Australia he left his station in 1846 to lead the explora- tion party of which we have spoken. The sad accident that befell him on that expedition was described in the last chapter. Horrocks was anxious that the few pioneers in the Middle North should not be destitute of the ordinances of religion. Religious services were held in liis house, and lie took steps towards the erection of a place of worship. The Penwortham Church was inspired by him. It was Horrocks who discovered and named the Gulnare Plains; they were so called after one of his favourite dogs, who, in one of his exploring tours, killed seven emus in four da} r s on these plains. THE REV. WIL.LJAM LONGBOTTOM. CHAPTER XVIII. THE RISE OF RELIGIOUS ORGANIZATIONS. One of the masterpieces of the New Testament is the story of the two builders. One was wise and the other foolish. Each had a building to erect. The one founded his house upon a rock and the other upon the sand. The testing time came. The clouds gathered and covered the sky. The rain began to fall. Hour after hour it continued. The earth could not absorb the water. The rivulets became rivers, and the ponds lakes. The wind blew in fierce gusts. Both struc- tures were exposed to the full force of water and wind. The one house fell not, because it was founded on a rock; the other, having no secure foundation, collapsed, and was soon swept away. How true of human ex- perience in all ages. A nation is but an aggregate of individuals, and what is true of individual life is true of national life: it may be founded upon a rock, or it may have its basis in sand. In nation building righteousness is a necessary factor. Not only is it the foundation upon which a commonwealth must be built, but it is the cement that must hold the superstructure together. When the cement is wanting the nation falls. Sir George Grey lias said: " It is adherence to the principles of righteous- ness that has given to the British people the great and grand position they occupy such as no other nation has ever held upon earth." All history demonstrates that there is a mysterious Power in the world that makes for righteousness. Its existence is revealed in the fact that " righteousness exalteth a nation," but "sin is a reproach." and a source of weakness to any people. 298 THE RISE OF RELIGIOUS ORGANIZATIONS. Sin is always a disintegrating factor. Just as it destroys individual life body and soul so it eats away the life of a nation. Of ancient Rome, at the time of her collapse, an eloquent historian has said: " She may have had wise laws, able administrators, many ingenious expedients against decay, gold to buy barbarian blood, and fortress piled upon fortress by the Danube and the Rhine, but she had not life. It was this, and no mere change of policy or external accident, which converted the Empire into a brothel and a slaughter-house in the reign of Nero and Domitian, which brought it to the hammer on the death of Pertinax. and finally delivered it over as a prey to the bow and the spear of the Ostrogoth and the Lombard." What makes the difference between the British Empire to-day and the Roman Empire - of the first century ? It is neither civilization, intelligence nor brute force, but righteousness. The British Constitution is founded upon the Word of God. Our pioneer builders in South Australia laid a good foundation. They built upon a rock. It could not be said of them: " Thou hast praised the gods of gold, silver, brass, iron, wood, and stone, and the God in Whose hand thy breath is, and Whose are all thy ways, thou hast not glorified." They had respect for the ordin- ances of religion; they acknowledged God. This they did, be it remembered, in the absence of a State Church or sacrificing priest. We shall see how, in the absence of an ordained minister or ecclesiastical structure men and w r omen met together for Divine W T orship. Look again at the picture that in earlier chapters we have painted. See the first emigrants, as soon as they had landed upon Kangaroo Island, gathering around Cap- tain Morgan while he conducted a short service and engaged in prayer. Was not the action prophetic ? The South Australian Company practically founded the colony. It is a remarkable fact that its leading employees who came to help lay the foundations of the colony were Christian men. Its first manager (Samuel THE RISE OF RELIGIOUS ORGANIZATIONS. 299 Stephens) was a Christian man. As soon as the com- pany's store was erected it was available for service. Here Samuel East (another employee of the Company) preached the first Methodist sermon in the new land. A barrel was used as a reading desk, and the seats were boxes, casks, and cases. Edward Stephens, the first banker of the Company, was a Christian man, and in his tent at Holdfast Bay before the city was founded, John C. White preached the first Methodist sermon on the mainland. David McLaren, the second manager of the Company, was a Christian man, and in the absence of a Baptist minister acted in that capacity. William B. Randell, another servant of the Company, was one of the founders of the Baptist Church. William Giles, the third manager, was an earnest Christian a Con- gregationalist and took a deep interest in the spiritual life of the colony. No sectarian was he. James Breeze, also in the service of the Company, was a pioneer Methodist preacher, and so was William Lillicrapp, who came out as manager of the Company's flocks and herds. There must have been some cause for so general an effect, and one is led to surmise that George Fife Angas, the founder of the Company, must have had some in- fluence in the selection of so many Christian men. Before an Episcopalian minister reached the colony Divine service in connection with that church was held. In the diary of Mrs. Robert Thomas we read " Divine service was held for the first time in the rush hut of the principal surveyor. We attended, taking our seats with us; the signal for attending being the firing of a gun." Ere the first emigrants left the Old Land arrange- ments were made for establishing a branch of the Epis- copalian Church. The first number of the " South Aus- tralian Gazette and Colonial Register," published in London, stated that the framework of a church, to seat seven hundred and fifty persons, was in course of pre- paration, and that 700 had been subscribed towards the expenses of establishing the church . 300 THE RISE OF RELIGIOUS ORGANIZATIONS. In the Act founding the colony, power was given for the official appointment of chaplains of the Estab- lished Churches of England and Scotland. The first Colonial Chaplain, appointed by the Commissioners for the colony, was the Rev. Charles Beaumont Howard, with a salary of 250 a year. He arrived with Governor Hindmarsh in the " Buffalo." The appointment, so- far as the personal character of the chaplain is concerned, was a wise one. Mr. Howard was a man of Catholic and gracious spirit. The first Episcopalian service in the new colony, conducted by the Chaplain, was held under a sail. It was borrowed by Mr. Howard from a captain in the Port- There were no carriers in those days, and how to get the- sail transported from the seaboard to the city site was a problem. The zealous minister was equal to the solution. A hand truck was borrowed. The Colonial Treasurer (Osmond Gilles) was pressed into service. The cleric and his lay associate dragged the sail in triumph across country, a distance of about seven miles- The first church (Trinity Church) was a reed hut. Mr. Howard brought up part of the material for fencing his. church from the Port with his own hands. This meant a wearisome journey, over rough country, of seven miles. He has the honor of being the first ordained minister to preach the Gospel in the new Province. In 1840 the Rev. James Farrell came to Mr. Howard's assistance, and in 1847 the first Episcopalian Bishop (Dr. Short) arrived. The Bishop's " first impressions " indicate the pros- perity of South Australia at the time that he arrived. " We find," said he, " civility and intelligence the characteristics of the population to more than an average- degree. A more thoroughly English colony does not probably exist. All we want is additional labor. The wages of one day will purchase one and a-half bushels of wheat, an amount equal to six days' labor in England. The finest wheat in the world is now selling for two shillings and sixpence per bushel, while the wages of a THE RISE OF RELIGIOUS ORGANIZATIONS. 301 day laborer are three shillings and sixpence; mechanics, seven shillings. Fat cattle are sold at from 2 10/ to 3, and sheep are likely soon to be boiled down by the thousand merely for the tallow. Legs of mutton are selling at Gawler Town for sixpence a piece prime meat. In short, the means of subsistence are abundant, and immigrants by the thousand might be fed and em- plo} r ed most profitably." The foundation of St. Peter's College was laid on May 24, 1849. Thomas Quinton Stow, the pioneer Congregational minister, a man of great ability, came out by the ship " Hartley," in October, 1837, the voyage occupying one hundred and thirty-nine days.* No minister of the gospel in those early days could stand upon his dignity. So far as the social system was concerned learned and illiterate, aristocrat and plebeian, were upon the same footing. In the budding city and its environs kangaroos were more plentiful than horses, and where all were intent upon making homes for them- selves hired labor was scarcely possible. Ministers and laymen were cast upon their own resources. If a minister were inspired with the spirit of the psalmist and would not give " sleep to his eyes, nor slumber to Ms eyelids till he had found out a place for the Lord, & habitation for the mighty God of Jacob," then he would have speedily to set to work and build or help to build it with his own hands. Such was Mr. Stow's ex- perience. After his arrival a tent was erected some- where near the Torrens, and here the first Congrega- tional service in the new land was held. Governor Hindmarsh formed one of the congregation, and was furnished with a box for a seat. A meeting was held in the tent, and eleven persons gave in their names as Church members. Ere long a more substantial church was needed. It was built of pine logs, and stood upon North-terrace. It was thatched with reeds, re.eds that * Now it can be done in thirty-five days. 302 THE RISE OF RELIGIOUS ORGANIZATIONS. the pastor had cut with his own hands, and carried from what are known as the Reedbeds to the building. An old lady who, as a young girl, came to the new settle- ment in 1838, has described to the writer this primitive Congregational Church, and incidents in connection with it. On the Saturday afternoon, in summer, Thomas Quinton Stow, with someone to assist him, would carry several vessels down to the Torrens on a long stick, and bring up water with which to " water down " the earth floor for the Sabbath service. No house being available for three months, Mr. Stow and his family lived in a tent. Writing to some friends in England he said : " We are now in our tent at Adelaide, never regretting that we came. Amidst all Mrs. Stow's suffer- ings her mind has never wavered as to the propriety of the step we have taken. . . Our church has been formed about two months, consisting of thirteen mem- bers, and two candidates. We have also begun a Sunday-school which promises well. The Governor and most of the officials have been to hear me." One of the pioneers expressed surprise that a man of Mr. Stow's talents should ever have left the old country. But the good man was more than satisfied. Writing to the Missionary Committee, who had sent him out, he said : " What a land is this to which you have sent me ! The loveliness and glory of its plains and woods, its glens and hills! But of these you will hear more from others. I cannot, however, leave it out of my estimate of God's goodness to me." Mr. Stow was one of the ablest and most energetic opponents of State-aid to religion. He died in 1862. A fine church has been erected to his memory. In connection with the rise of the Congregational Church the Rev. Ridgeway Williams Newland deserves special mention. He came to Adelaide in 1839 and took up work at Victor Harbor. Both in relation to- things material and spiritual he was a splendid pioneer. His death in 1864 was the result of an accident. THE RISE OF RELIGIOUS . ORGANIZATIONS. 303 There was no Baptist minister in Adelaide in the early years. David McLaren officiated. At the end of 1840 a Mr. Collison was acting as preacher. There were fifty-four persons in communion with the Church. They met in a little building in Hindley-street that had been vacated by the Methodists. In the " Register " for 1840 a " Scotchman " drew attention to the circumstance that there was no minister of the Scotch Church in the new province. He asked : " Why should this church, founded by Knox, and the other worthies of the Reformation, cemented by the blood of many martyrs, be forgotten or deserted by Scotchmen in South Australia ?" The writer must have been referring to what is known as the Established Church of Scotland. The United Presbyterian Church was already represented. The pioneer minister of that Church (Rev. Ralph Drummond) had arrived in 1839. At first he erected a building in Angas-street, where he held services and on November 30th. 1840, he laid the foundation-stone of the first Presbyterian Church in the new colony. The Church was erected in Gouger-street. The Rev. Ralph Drummond reached four score years, and died at Mitcham, April 26th, 1872. The earliest reference to the Roman Catholic Church that the author has been able to find is in the " Register " for October, 1838. The Catholics of South Australia were requested to meet at the residence of Mr. Phillips, East-terrace, Adelaide, in order to make final arrangements for the establishment of a mission in the colony. Apparently the first official of the Roman Catholic Church to visit Adelaide was Dr. Ullathorne (Vicar- General of Australia). This was in 1839. Speaking of this circumstance in his autobiography Dr. Ullathorne says : " When we landed at Adelaide (a few miles from the Port) the city was in the fourth year from its founda- tion. Like the old Etruscan cities, it had been re- gularly laid out from the first in a square. The straight streets were (many of them) only marked out by roxigh 304 THE RISE OF RELIGIOUS ORGANIZATIONS. roads and chippings on. the trees; the houses were, here and there, not brought into line. I was hospitably received by Mr. and Mrs. Phillips and their family, whose house, beautifully situated, looked over the great level plain, rich with grass, and most beautiful flowers, upon the precipitous range of Mount Lofty." Dr. Ullathorne held service in the little city in a china shop. He says : " I puzzled my friends in Sydney by telling them that the streets in Adelaide were fitter for the study of astronomy than for commerce. The fact was that miles of newly marked out streets were unmade, and after heavy Australian rain were full of pools of water, through which my good hostess waded to the china shop for evening service, and in which the brilliant stars of the Southern Hemisphere were reflected." The first priest to come to South Australia was the Rev. J. Benson. This was in 1841. The house occupied by Mr. Phillips was taken by the Committee and fitted up as a temporary chapel. After remaining two or three years in the colony the Rev. J. Benson went to Sydney, and then to England, dying at Wolverhamp- ton in 1868, aged seventy-three years. When Adelaide became an Episcopal See, in 1842, Dr. Ullathorne was offered the Bishopric, but did not accept it. Dr. Murphy was appointed. He took charge in 1844. It was during this year that the first Roman Catholic Church in the colony was erected; this was St. Mary's, at Morphett Vale. There is a good story told of Bishop Murphy and Dr. Backhaus. Both of them were near-sighted. Coming from Government House, North-terrace, on one occasion the}^ were lost in Wakefield-street, and had to " cooee " for assistance before they could find their way home. The Lutheran Church in the new settlement" was founded as the result of persecution. It was in No- vember, 1838. that Pastor Kavel arrived with the first batch of German refugees. The story of their emigra- THE RISE OF RELIGIOUS ORGANIZATIONS. 305 tion is as follows: In 1830 the Prussian Government attempted to force on the Lutherans a form of liturgy of which many of them disapproved. As a matter of conscience hundreds of Germans refused to conform. An era of persecution began. Some of the Noncon- formist Germans were banished, imprisoned, and fined. They were not allowed to meet together for Divine wor- ship under the circumstances of which they approved. Rich as well as poor were persecuted. In the " Life of George Fife Angas " (to which the reader is referred for a full account of the persecution) there is reference to a German baron in Silesia who, for holding prayer meetings in his house, was heavily fined, his state coach and cattle were confiscated, and he was confined in prison for several months. The persecution was so unrelenting that many of the Germans determined to emigrate. The pastor of a Lutheran congregation in Klemzig, Augustus Kavel, having heard of the proposed new settlement in Australia, and that George Fife Angas was one of its promoters, waited upon him in London. He wished to see if any arrangement could be made by which the persecuted Germans could emigrate to the new colony. Great difficulties were in the way. The Prussian Government, although denying the people liberty of conscience, threw difficulties in the way of their emigration. On the other hand the monetary resources of the people were very limited. George Fife Angas and others advanced large sums of money in their interest, and in course of time all difficulties and restrictions were removed. In June, 1 838, the "Prince with a sufficiency of timber to make it look well. It is five miles from where our cottage is situated, which is now called Glenelg. and seven miles from the harbour, which is called Port Adelaide, but a canal is contem- plated of six miles in length, which will bring mer- chandise from the Port to the city. I should tell you that the country soil and climate exceed my most san- guine expectations, and that I would not return to live in England on any account." Dr. Everard introduced the mulberry tree into South Australia. He secured a cutting at the Cape of Good Hope, placed it in a hollow walking stick, and planted it as soon as he landed. Fortunately it grew, and became a splendid specimen of its kind. He also raised olives from seeds obtained at the Cape. SOME PIONEER BUILDERS. 349 HENRY MILDRED canie to the province in 1837, and took a prominent position in political and municipal life. " Councillor Mildred " was opposed to Governor Grey's policy, and did not hesitate in a most emphatic manner to say so. In 1857 he was returned for the District of Noarlunga. At different times during his long life he occupied seats in the Legislative Council or House of Assembly. About 1871 he retired from politi- cal life. He passed away at the age of 82 years. SIR WILLIAM MILNE was born near Glasgow in May, 1822, and came to the new settlement in 1839. He first went into the north on a station to get experience in sheep farming, but subsequently became a merchant in the city. In 1857 he was elected to the First House of Assembly as the representative of Onkaparinga, and in 1869 he was chosen a member of the Legislative Coun- cil. Sir William served in several Ministries, and intro- duced some valuable legislation. He was chosen to succeed Sir John Morphett as President of the Legisla- tive Council. He died April 23, 1895, aged seventy-two years. ALEXANDER HAY was born in Fifeshire, Scotland, in 1820, and came to South Australia in 1839. Was engaged principally in agricultural and pastoral pursuits. Was chosen in 1857 to represent the District of Gumeracha. He sat in both Houses for some years, and was Commissioner of Public Works in 1860. He assisted in passing the Real Property Act, advocated the selling of waste lands on credit as well as for cash, brought in a Bill to legalise marriage with a deceased wife's sister, and for the construction of the overland telegraph line. Alexander Hay took a great interest in commercial, religious, and philanthropic enterprises. At one time he was President of the Young Men's Chris- tian Association. He died February 4, 1898, aged seventy-eight years. SIR HENRY AYERS. This pioneer will long be re- membered for valuable services rendered to the com- 350 SOME PIONEER BUILDERS. munity. For a great many years he occupied a unique position in the colony. Henry Ayers was born at Portsea, England, in May, 1821. He came to South Australia in 1840. When the Burra Mine was dis- covered he became Secretary to the South Australian Mining Association, a position that he occupied through a long life. In 1857 'he was elected a member of the Legislative Council, and was seven times Premier of South Australia and sat in several Ministries. For twelve years he was President of the Legislative Council. In 1894 he was knighted by the Queen. Sir Henry was considered one of the safest and acutest financiers in South Australia. For many years he was Chairman of the Savings Bank. He was the representative from South Australia to several intercolonial Con- ferences. Of him the " South Australian Register " has said : " Sir Henry was peculiarly fitted to represent the people in the Senate Hall and in the Cabinet office. As an administrator he showed his ready grasp of detail." His " culture and diplomatic training " served him admirably in the discharge of the work connected with the " occupancy of the highest positions in the State." No one " presided over the deliberations of the Legis- lative Council with a higher conception of the require- ments of the office. His rule was characterised by ability, gravity, impartiality, and courtesy. His de- meanour, at the most trying times, was always worthy of the best traditions of his high position. He was in every way an able exponent of the Constitution, with whose history he was, in the fullest sense, familiar. If Sir Henry had done nothing else besides directing the business of the People's Savings Bank he would have earned an unquestionable title to the enduring and grateful recollections of tens of thousands of thrifty families in South Australia." When a great financial disaster overtook the colon}' in 1893, and one bank after another suspended payment, it was fortunate that Sir Henry Ayers was at the head of the Savings Bank. He died June 11, 1897, in his seventy-seventh ear. SOME PIONEER BUILDERS. 351 BENJAMIN HERSCHEL BABBAGE was the son of the celebrated inventor of the calculating machine that made the name of " Babbage " universal. When the Bullion Act was passed, to which reference has been made, Benjamin H. Babbage was appointed Govern- ment Assayer. In the first Parliament under respon- sible government he was elected for the District of En- counter Bay. In 1856 he was Government Geologist, and led a party into the interior as far as Mount Hopeless in search of gold. During the trip he found a large creek which he named MacDonnell, in honour of the Governor; also a fresh-water lake, to which he gave the name of Blanchewater in honour of Lady MacDonnell. He also led a party to more thoroughly examine Lake Torrens and the vicinity. One discovery that he made was of a very painful character it was the dead body of W. Coulthard, an early settler who apparently had a passion for exploration. Near the body was found a tin canteen on which (in the agony of death) several words had been scratched. Amongst others the fol- lowing : " My tung is stiking to my mouth. Blind (?) although feeling exce for want of water. My ey dazels. My tung burn. I can see no way. God help ." What made the tragedy more painful was the fact that not far from the dead body unknown to the perishing man was a water hole with a good supply of water. Benjamin H. Babbage died at his residence, St. Mary's, South-road. October 22. 1878. FRIEDRICH E. H. W. KRICHAUFF. In the course of our history we have spoken of the thousands of German settlers who came to the Province of South Australia. Splendid colonists (as a rule) they have made frugal, honest, independent, and industrious. Of our German brethren the author (from personal experience) can speak in the highest terms. The subject of this sketch was born in 1824, in the town of Schleswig. He was the son of a judge in the Supreme Court in Schleswig Hoi- stein, and passed through all the classes of the college there, and then apprenticed himself for three years at 352 SOME PIONEER BUILDERS. the Botanical Gardens at the University of Kiel. Matri- culated in 1846 as a student of philosophy at the Uni- versity of Berlin. Friedrich Krichauff emigrated from the Fatherland and came to South Australia about twelve years after its foundation. Purchased land in Bugle Ranges. Here he worked as an agriculturist for many years. In 1857 he was elected at the top of the poll as a representative for Mount Barker in the First Parliament. He did good service in assisting to pass the Real Property Act at a critical time. He also advo- cated a Distillation Bill, and a Bill of his own in the interest of Rifle Clubs. Friedrich Krichauff was a warm supporter of the principle of payment of members. Not being able to spare so much time from his agri- Cultural pursuits, he had to resign his seat. As an evidence of the self-sacrifice that our fathers had to make in the interests of the Commonwealth we may say that the author of this sketch walked to Adelaide on the Monday (a distance of about twenty -eight miles) to attend the sessions of the House, and walked home again on the Friday. Robert R. Torrens urged Mr. Krichauff to become one of the first licensed brokers under the Real Property Act chiefly to enable German settlers to bring their land under the Act. To this he consented. In 1870 he was elected for the district of Onkaparinga, and held office as Commissioner of Public Works, having the honour of placing the last stone on the Post Office tower. For twelve years this old colonist represented Onkaparinga, and then resigned his seat to travel through Europe. As a legislator his aim was to support liberal land legislation, and to encourage the planting of forest trees. In 1875 he carried a Bill to make provision for the appointment of a Forest Board. In 1884 Friedrich Krichauff was returned for the Dis- trict of Victoria, and in 1887 still had the confidence of the electors for another term of three years. He was a member of the State Bank Royal Commission, and was also elected permanent Chairman of a most useful in- stitution the Central Agricultural Bureau. Mr. Krichauff died September 29, 1904. SOME PIONEER BUILDERS. 353 HON. JOHN DUNN. His life is a lesson in the virtues of patience and perseverance. From a very lowly position by virtue of hard work he rose to one of honor and affluence. John Dunn was born in Devon- shire in February, 1802. His parents were poor, con- sequently he received very little education. When ten years of age he had to go to work, receiving the miser- able pittance of sixpence per week. After seven years' apprenticeship John Dunn became manager of a flour mill at Bideford, Devon. His wages now were fifteen shillings per week. About four years after the found- ing of South Australia the subject of this sketch decided to emigrate to the new colony. He arrived in 1840, and took up land at Hay Valley. His was a heroic and determined spirit. He walked from Hay Valley to the primitive settlement on the banks of the Torrens, carrying his dairy produce. Having sold this, and made his purchases, he would take up his burden and walk many weary miles home again. Gradually his position improved. He erected a flour mill at Hay Valley, worked by the wind. This process was too slow and uncertain. He ordered a small steam engine from England, and this laid the foundation of his fortune. Before prosperity came he had to endure many hardships. John Dunn could not observe any " eight hours' system;" he worked from daylight to dark, and after dark continued his labors, aided by the light of a lump of grease stuck in a bit of wood. He was the first to grind corn in the new settlement by a systematic and scientific process, and built up perhaps the largest milling business in the Southern Hemisphere. John Dunn and Friedrich Krichauff were elected to represent the District of Mount Barker in the First Parliament in 1 857. They both walked to the city (a distance of many miles) to attend the sittings of the House, and walked back again. For several years the Hon. John Dunn had a seat in Parliament. He helped to pass Torrens' Real Property Act, and worked hard to get the Bible read in State schools. Speaking of him the South Aus- tralian " Register " said : " How well the old patriarch 354 SOME PIONEER BUILDERS. served his generation the annals of the colony abun- dantly testify." In the truest sense of the word his was " an exemplary career." Boys and girls might learn valuable lessons from the life of the Hon. John Dunn. He " feared God," and both in a material and spiritual sense " worked righteousness;" the diligent hand made him rich, and the wealth secured was used for noble purposes. He built a number of cottages at Mount Barker for the poor, and erected a Methodist Church in the town at a cost of 4,000. In various other ways he benefited the people among whom he lived and labored. He died October 13, 1894, in his ninety- third year. NOTE. In biinging this chapter to a close it may be of interest to remark that the only surviving member of the First Parliament is Mr. Luther Scammell, of Unley. Mr. Scammell has proved himself a most worthy and useful colonist. CHAPTER XX. OTHER PIONEER BUILDERS. In our last chapter we spoke more especially of the Crown officers of the primitive settlement, and of the Senators who helped to mould the destinies of the young and growing nation. This chapter will be devoted to men of a somewhat different type. The social system is complex. As in the erection of some large material fabric various trades are represented, so in nation build- ing representatives of the various professions and in- dustries have a prominent part to perform. In the building up of a Commonwealth these cannot be ignored. It is only of a few prominent pioneer workers, of whom posterity ought to know something, that we can speak. There were three brothers, representing different phases of social life, who ought to come under review. They were all men of mark, and helped to lay broad and deep the foundations upon which South Australian society rests to-day. Two of them were fierce anta- gonists to State-aid to religion, and led the van in the most important and severe conflict that our colony has witnessed. One was a caustic and robust writer,, and the other an able and vigorous speaker. John Stephens was a Methodist preacher one of the ablest men who ever sat in the chair of the British Conference. In his youth he was a Cornish miner, but he had mental powers of a superior order, and was destined by Providence to occupy a high position in the ecclesiastical world, and to do a good work. When little more than twenty years of age he entered the ministry, and occupied the highest positions that the Church could give. His instincts were conservative. History affirms that he was one of " the most unbending .356 OTHER PIONEER BUILDERS. champions of authority that the Conference could pro- duce." He had five able sons, and, strange to relate, three of them at least developed radical tendencies. One (Joseph Raynor Stephens) not willing to bow to Conference authority, retired from the Methodist ministry. He became a political agitator, and " gave the British Government more trouble than ever he gave the British Conference." It is with his three brothers Samuel, John, and Edward Stephens that we have specially to deal. They all came early to the new colony, and materially helped in laying its foundations and in raising the superstructure. SAMUEL STEPHENS was the first adult colonist to put his foot on South Australian soil. He came by the first vessel (the " Duke of York ") in 1836, and landed on Kangaroo Island. He was sent out by the South Australian Company as its first manager, and was the leading spirit at the Kangaroo Island settlement. Every detail in relation to the pioneers is valuable, and will become increasingly so as the years roll by. From the letters of early emigrants we get glimpses of the son of the Rev. John Stephens and his new sur- roundings. Under the guidance of these we see several tents and rude huts not far from the beach at Nepean Bay, Kangaroo Island. A number of people are moving about the beach, some dressed in smock-frocks and gaiters. A boat is being rowed from an emigrant vessel to the shore. Presently depth of water fails. The passengers are either carried by the sailors or they wade through the surf to the beach. They are met by Samuel Stephens and conducted to his tent. Lunch is prepared. He takes them to see the site on which his cottage is to be built. It is on a gentle slope. In the foreground there are native shrubs almost down to the water's edge, and a fine view of the ocean. There are several Cashmere goats, imported by the South Aus- tralian Company, browsing the herbage. Some poultry are busy examining the nature of the new country. Cattle there is none. Mr. Stephens and party go for a OTHER PIONEER BUILDERS. 357 short walk in the bush. They come to a piece of land that has been cleared. It is a burial ground. Already there are two graves in it. How suggestive ! What a lesson it reads in human mortality ! How soon the most recent and smallest community needs a cemetery ! As soon as we provide homes for the living a place must be prepared for the dead. The party walk back to the beach, gathering shells and sponges. Farewell words are spoken. The visitors take their seats in the boat. Samuel Stephens goes back to his tent, while the sailors pull for the emigrant vessel, whose destination is Hold- fast Bay. After Colonel Light had pronounced against Kangaroo Island as a place of settlement Samuel Stephens and other settlers removed to the mainland. He imported the first horse into the new colony. One of the pioneers (Pastor Jacob Abbott) has left upon record an account of his first meeting with the horse and its owner. Samuel Stephens was walking down the North-terrace of the embryo city, leading his newly imported horse. A short distance away was a group of blackfellows. Directly they caught sight of the animal " their expressions of astonishment and horror were indescribable." The men shouted. The lubras screamed. The children sought refuge behind their parents. Gradually they became calmer, muttering : " Big kangaroo ! Oh, big kangaroo !" Like his brothers, who will come under review, he was evidently a man with considerable force of character. He had great difficulty with some of the emigrants brought out in the Company's service; but soon succeeded in erect- ing several stores and buildings. He also did useful work in exploring the country round Adelaide and the west coast. Alas! the noble spirited Samuel Stephens soon came to an untimely end. In 1840 he was on his way from the Murray, a party of pioneers being with him. He rode on in advance. When the company came to the foot of one of the hills between Mount Barker and Adelaide they found him on the road speech- less . His horse had fallen with him . He died about half an hour after his friends picked him up. He was buried 358 OTHER PIONEER BUILDERS. in the West-terrace Cemetery, Adelaide. Of him one of the pioneers left the following record : " He was en- deared by the benevolence of his disposition and kind- ness of heart, as he was admired for his clear perception and sound judgment. No case of real distress or diffi- culty appealed to him in vain, and his sympathy was always rendered doubly valuable by the sincerity with which it was exercised. He delighted in benefiting all that he could, and if he ever thought of heaping fire on the head of an opponent, it was sure to be by rendering him a kindness." The Rev. William Longbottom must have cherished a regard for the memory of Samuel Stephens, as it was his wish to be buried by his side. Samuel Stephens is buried in a block of land secured by his brother Edward. The forces of nature are destroying the lettering on the tombstone. Before the inscription totally disappears the author would like to transfer it to his pages. Some of the words are already lost. " In the vault beneath this stone is deposited the body of the late Samuel Stephens, Esq., who departed this life on Saturday, January 18th, 1840, aged 31 years. Amongst the early friends and founders of South Aus- tralia his name holds a distinguished place. He was the first colonist who landed on its shores, holding, at the time, the appointment of First Colonial Manager of the South Australian Company. He was suddenly killed in the prime of life by an accident whilst return- ing .... to Adelaide." John Stephens is buried in the same vault. The time will come if it has not already arrived when the descendants of the pioneers will go to see the grave of the first adult colonist to put his foot on South Australian soil. The following are the directions for finding it : Road No. 1 south. Path 30 west and path 31 east. Nos. 44-45. Situated between first and second road. JOHN STEPHENS. About 1832 a paper was pub- lished in England with pronounced radical tendencies. OTHER PIONEER BUILDERS. 359 It was conducted by four able young men, sons of dis- tinguished ministers. All had the literary gift, and were writers to the annuals. The paper took the name of the " Christian Advocate.'" A contemporary says : " The paper was conducted with ability, its articles were exceedingly plausible, and in the absence of any counter- acting agency few were able to detect its fallacies." It became the exponent of ecclesiastical and political radicalism. It attacked the leading ministers of the Methodist Connexion, being especially severe on Dr. Bunting. It also " dealt with other religious bodies after its own mind," and had great influence. It was read by thousands. Pegple looked for the " Christian Advocate " with an eager spirit, and there was some- thing wanting at the end of the week if its pages were not read." The editor of that paper was John Stephens, so named after his able father. The paper lived for some years, then botli paper and editor disappeared from view. It was in connection with the founding of South Australia that John Stephens, somewhat abruptly, came to the surface again. That he was known to George Fife Angas is evident from a passage in Mr. Angas' published life. He says : " I went over to Blackfriars to see John Stephens." We next meet with him in connection with the publication of a book entitled " The Land of Promise." It was written in the interests of the new colony of South Australia, and published in 1836. A second edition was soon called for and published under the title of " The Rise and Pro- gress of South Australia." A copy of this edition the writer has been privileged to see. It consists of more than two hundred pages, and reveals considerable literary merit. In 1843 John Stephens is in Adelaide. He established the " Adelaide Observer." Later on the " Register " came into his hands. The same characteristics that were so marked in England were manifested here. He was a fighter indeed. By the courtesy of the present proprietors of the " Register " the writer has been able to glean the following respecting his colonial career. " He had great difficulties with 360 OTHER PIONEER BUILDERS. his literary business, as he wielded a trenchant pen, and enemies rose up all round him, some of whom sought redress for their imagined wrongs at the hands of the law. At the time of his death his name had appeared nine times in the Cause List of the Supreme Court as defendant in libel actions." Many advertisements were withdrawn from his paper. He is represented as having " decision of character, indomitable pluck, and untiring energy in an eminent degree." He was a staunch teetotaller. In the various actions that were brought against him it was his conviction that he suf- fered for righteousness sake. One who knew him well in South Australia has left on record the following : " He was the unflinching and unvarying advocate of civil and religious liberty; the truthful and uncom- promising exposer of every proved corruption and abuse." What this free State to-day owes to the powerful pen of John Stephens especially in relation to the abolition of State-aid to religion and the struggle for responsible government is beyond calculation. He died in 1850. A contemporary says : ' The victim of the severity of his own discipline and labor, but not until he had established, on a permanent basis, the re- putation and success of the " Register." Business worries and the death of a beloved son helped to break him down. His body lies in the West-terrace Ceme- tery, Adelaide. The stone that marks his resting-place is wasting away. Some of the letters are obliterated. The Curator of the Cemetery went to considerable trouble to decipher the inscription. The following is a copy : In Memory of JOHN STEPHENS, Who died November 28, 1850, Aged 44 years. The memory of his worth shall never cease. Upright in all his ways his end was peace; But though sincere, affectionate, and just, His Saviour's merits were his onlv trust. JOHN STEPHENS. OTHER PIONEER BUILDERS. 361 John Stephens' residence was on North-terrace, nearly opposite where the Library now stands. His printing office, from which he issued the " Observer, " was in Hindley-street, near the site on which Beach's restaurant is built. EDWARD STEPHENS. Of his early history we are not in a position to speak. We believe that he came to the new colony from Hull. He and his wife ar- rived by the " Coromandel," about five months after his brother Samuel. He came to the colony as cashier and accountant of the South Australian Company's bank, bringing with him a portable banking house and iron chests. The site for the city had not yet been fixed, so Edward Stephens and his wife had to take up their abode in a tent, not far from the beach, at Holdfast Bay. In public matters connected with the young colony Edward Stephens took a leading part. In searching old records in the Adelaide Public Library the writer has found his name in connection with a variety of social, political, religious, and philanthropic movements. He was one of the early emigrants who protested against the site that Colonel Light had chosen for the city. In the pioneer press a long and vigorous letter of his appeared in which he affirmed that on the site chosen " a great commercial city could never be built." He was one of the Committee who named the streets and squares of Adelaide; he was also a magis- trate, and for a short time a member of the Legislature. Judging from specimens of his oratory that have come down to us he must have been a very effective speaker. After David McLaren left the colony Edward Stephens became Manager of the Bank of South Australia. In addition to his work as a banker he edited a weekly journal, " The Adelaide Miscellany," but it did not pay. He lost 400 by this literary venture. During the troubles that overtook the colony in Governor Gawler's time he was of special service to the pioneers. On January 12th, 1851, he left the colony on a visit to Eng- land. In connection with his departure the editor of 362 OTHER PIONEER BUILDERS. the " Adelaide Times " said : " No one who remembers the crisis of 1841-4 can deny to Mr. Stephens the posses- sion of tact and talent of a very superior order, or can hesitate to admit his perfect self-possession and far- sighted forbearance on that trying occasion. Not one banker out of ten or perhaps out of a hundred could have done what he then did. There was certainly no other person in the colony equal to it. A false step then would have been fatal. The colony might have been ruined, and the South Australian Banking Com- pany entombed in its ruins. As it was the bank was saved, and was brought out of the crisis without any con- siderable loss. No one in the colony at that time can forget the Sheriff's visit to the bank in Governor Grey's time, and the ease with which he was bowled out. Mr. Stephens was the only man in the colony before whom Governor Grey quailed, who then referred the matter in dispute home, only to meet with more signal and com- plete discomfiture. For this Mr. Stephens entitled himself to the best thanks of the colonists. The ques- tion at issue was the disposal of some 10,000 or 12,000 of the Emigration Fund, which Captain Grey was bent upon misappropriating. No man, in fact, can do bolder things than Mr. Stephens has done, or do them with more complete success." The " Register " spoke on another occasion in similar laudatory terms. So far as the author has been able to ascertain he resigned his position as Manager of the Bank of South Australia in 1855, and returned to England. In February, 1861, we meet with Edward Stephens in London, writing to his old friend, John Ridley, the inventor of the stripper. A number of old colonists at this time were in England, and Edward Stephens was arranging for a dinner and for a testimonial to Mr. Ridley. Amongst the old colonists in London were Captain Bagot, Alexander L. Elder, Joseph Hawdon (who brought over the first herd of cattle), Charles Bonney (the first Commissioner of Crown Lands), W. H. Maturin, James Hurtle Fisher, and Colonel George Gawler (the second Governor of our Province). The dinner was held, and the presentation OTHER PIONEER BUILDERS. 363 to Mr. Ridley was made at the Albion Hotel, Aldersgate- street, London. The testimonial to Mr. Ridley was in the form of a large candelabrum, made of South Aus- tralian gold, silver, malachite, and woods. At this banquet report says that Edward Stephens made " the most delightful speech " in answering the toast, " The Ladies." His speech was in praise of the wives of the arly settlers in South Australia. A few days after this festival Edward Stephens, who had taken such a prominent part in connection with it, passed away. Of this sad circumstance John Ridley wrote : "Mr. Edward Stephens," one of the Vice-Chairmen at the dinner, " within a fortnight is gathered to his rest. May not a line be added to his memory ? The dinner was his idea, a desire to bring old colonists together, the realization of a long-cherished wish that there should be a gathering of those who looked upon South Australia as their home, or the foundation of their fortunes. Nor was his an ordinary feeling of attachment to the colony. As early as 1837 he proceeded there in the " Coromandel " to establish the Bank of South Australia, which he con- ducted with signal ability through all its early stages, and continued its colonial manager till 1855, when he honorably retired, leaving his favorite institution a large and profitable concern. His promise on leaving Ade- laide in 1855 to continue serving South Australia has been more than fulfilled, his high qualifications for pub- lic life being pre-eminent when its interests were to be advocated, or its claims asserted." Edward Stephens represented the colony at the International Statistical Congress, and, had he lived, he would have done so at the Exhibition of 1862, to which he had been appointed a commissioner. John Ridley affirms that in Edward Stephens the colony had one of the best of its public men, none more happy, more proud of promoting its interests, in watching or recording its career, and doing what was practical and wise for its future welfare. "PROFESSOR" MENGE. A pioneer mineralogist. This is a name that ought not to pass into oblivion. 364 OTHER PIONEER BUILDERS. He was the father of South Australian mineralogy and geology. He arrived in the colony in 1836, and for a time resided on Kangaroo Tslfird. Here he devoted himself to the cultivation of a garden. A gentleman who visited South Australia in 1837. speaking of Menge, said : " This great scholar (for he is eminent as a lin- guist as well as a mineralogist) is the completest speci- men of an eccentric student I ever knew. He is by birth a German; he lives upon tobacco smoke and pan cakes. A more perfect hermit could not be. His den (for it cannot be termed a hut) is under ground, with the mound or roof just hummocked up above the level; on one side is his fireplace, where he may be observed, at daybreak and evening, frying his cakes." When the first emigrants moved from Kangaroo Island to the mainland, Menge left his " dug out " and garden, and went with them. He then devoted his time and atten- tion to an examination of the country. He discovered indications of gold, silver, copper, lead, iron, and found several precious stones. He collected scores of speci- mens, arranged and classified them. These he deposited at Dr. Moorhouse's residence, North-terrace. He spoke highly of the mineral resources of the colony, and time proved the truth of his anticipations. Before coming to South Australia, Menge had travelled over Europe, Siberia, Iceland, North America, and a great part of Northern Asia in pursuit of his study. A person who knew him well wrote of him as follows : " He has all the guileless innocence and merriment of a child. He carried his contempt of gain so far as to decline to give lessons in Hebrew to Governor Grey and his lady because the Governor would not consent to his proposal to found a school of mining. . . It appears indif- ferent to him whether he converses in German, French, English, Russian, Dutch, Hebrew. . . All the living languages he has acquired in the respective countries which he traversed or lived in while pursuing his favorite hobby mineralogy." " Professor " Menge travelled as far as the Flinders' Range, and spoke highly of its mineral wealth. It is said that the life of this remark- OTHER PIONEER BUILDERS. 365 able man came to an end in a wretched tent on the Bendigo diggings, Victoria, in 1852. He died alone, without a friend to solace him, or to see him through the dark valley. CAPTAIN WATTS, pioneer Postmaster-General, ar- rived in the Province in 1841, and was almost imme- diately appointed to the office of Postmaster-General, which he held for 20 years. He retired in 1861. An address was presented to him by the officers of the de- partment, and a French gilt drawing-room clock, suit- ably inscribed. He also received the special thanks of the Governor and of the Adelaide Chamber of Commerce. He died March 28th, 1873, aged 87 years. Captain Watts had been an officer in the British Army. The General Post Office was a wooden building, which stood on the eastern corner of King William-street and North- terrace, where the Bank of New South Wales now stands. Here Captain Watts and his family resided. HENRY JICKLING. A pioneer barrister. He was among the early emigrants. When Sir John Jeffcott was drowned in 1837 at the Murray mouth, Mr. Jickling acted as Judge. He was Master of the Supreme Court, and with the late Sir R. D. Hanson examined our pre- sent worthy Chief Justice (the Right Hon. Sir Samuel Way) when he was admitted to the Bar. Henry Jickling was a prominent figure in Adelaide in the early days. There is something funny about the name the very sound seems to provoke a smile. The name was characteristic of the man. He was indeed an eccen- tric character, and many were the jokes manufactured at his expense. He wore shoes, white stockings, short trousers, and a peculiar cloak. In addition, he was very near-sighted, and had a springy walk. One of the early emigrants (Mr. Nathaniel Hailes) in an address delivered at Kensington fifty years ago. said : " There is still living in the city a gentleman deeply read in the law, but somewhat peculiar in his habits and manners. His hearing was defective and his sight contracted. The learned gentleman had been dining at Mr. Osmond 366 OTHER PIONEER BUILDERS. Gilles' house, near St. John's Church. His own resi- dence was in Gilles' Arcade. Two other guests, who left long after him, were surprised to overtake him a short distance from his starting point. He was stand- ing opposite the stock of a sheaoak tree. Bowing politely and addressing the tree, he said : " Will you have the kindness to tell me the way to Gilles' Arcade ? . . . Do oblige me." Some time after 1861 Henry Jickling left South Australia, and returned to the Old Country. Sm CHARLES COOPER. A pioneer Judge. He was sent out by the Colonization Commissioners to take the place of Sir John Jeffcott, and arrived in 1838. For many years Judge Cooper was a prominent figure among the early settlers. In addition to the valuable services- rendered as a judge he took an interest in the social life of the people. Alexander Tolmer (Commissioner of Police) has left on record an amusing incident in which Judge Cooper figured shortly after his arrival. He re- sided in a house near Whitmore-square, since utilised as the Bushman's Club. One of the rooms of the house was used as a court room. Joseph Stagg, a notorious- criminal, was on his trial. William Smillie (the Advo- cate-General) was conducting the case on behalf of the Crown. Charles Mann was defending the prisoner. Several ladies and other spectators were present. Sud- denly there was a report like the crack of a pistoL " He's shot at !" some voices exclaimed. In a moment the foreman of the jury, followed by the eleven, dashed out of one of the French windows. The Judge, lawyers, and ladies went pell-mell through the other. The only persons left in the room, besides the prisoner, were Tolmer and the Governor of the gaol.* The latter held the * Mr. Ashton (Governor of the Gaol in the early days) passed 'through some exciting: experiences. He had been connected with the police department in England, and came to South Australia shortly after its foundation. He lived in a hut on the banks of the Torrens. Under his charge were criminals of the worst type known in pioneer times as "Vandamonians." The gaol consisted of a small stone build- ing 1 , and another built of wood, the whole surrounded by a. paling fence. OTHER PIONEER BUILDERS. 367 prisoner, and the former kept a loaded pistol at his head. The general conviction was that one of the principal witnesses in the case a friend of the prisoner's had fired at the police officer. When order was restored it was found that the report was caused by the snapping of one of the beams of the floor which stood above a cellar. Judge Cooper had some difficult and peculiar cases to decide. One of these was the legality of the Royalty Bill, another which was known as " The Cathedral Acre Case " a block of land in Victoria- square claimed by the Church of England authorities on which to build a Cathedral. In 1856 he visited Eng- land. A farewell banquet was given to him by some of the settlers. In the Old Country he was knighted by the Queen. He returned to the colony, and after some years of service resigned his position with a pension and went back to England. Sir Charles died at Bath, Eng- land, in May, 1887. He reached an old age. Cooper's Creek in the North is named after him. It may be of interest to mention that Lady Cooper died at Bath in 1906. She was the daughter of one of our pioneers, C. B. Newenham, who came out in 1837. For a time he was Auditor-General of the Province, and for many years Sheriff. ADMIRAL PULLEN. A pioneer navigator. Lieut. Pullen came from the Old Country in the " Rapid " as second officer under Colonel Light. In company with the Colonel he spent some time in searching for a suit- able harbor. Lieut. Pullen was one of the discoverers of Port Adelaide. After the site of the city had been fixed, and the harbor chosen, we meet with him on the Murray. He took a great interest in the question as to whether the mouth of the Murray were navigable, and was the first to enter the Murray mouth from the sea. Lieut. Pullen surveyed Port Elliott. The " Goolwa " was first called Port Pullen in honor of him. He returned to England, and sailed in 1849 with one of the "Franklin Search Expeditions." In course of time he became an Admiral, and died in the Old Country in 1887 at an advanced age. 368 OTHER PIONEER BUILDERS. Associated with Lieut. Pullen in trying to discover a suitable port for the new settlement was Lieut. Field. It is probable that he was one of the first of the emigrants to enter the Port River. A few years later he took a prominent part in expeditions for punishing the blacks for attacks upon the settlers. He died about 1842 at Yankalilla, and was buried in the churchyard at or near Willunga. DK. WYATT. A pioneer Coroner and School In- spector. Came to the colony by the " John Renwick " early in 1837. Dr. Wyatt was one of the purchasers at the first land sale in the embryo city. This was in 1837. In the same year Governor Hindmarsh ap- pointed him Protector of Aborigines (pro tern) and City Coroner. He was present at the proclamation of Queen Victoria in the front of Government Hut, and was one of the guests at the banquet to celebrate the first anni- versary of the colony. In 1851 he was appointed In- spector of Schools, a position that he held about thirty - three years. There are many fathers of the rising generation in South Australia to-day who (as lads attend- ing school) will remember the short figure and spare form of Dr. Wyatt, and the school holiday that followed one of his visits. For many years he was Chairman of the Adelaide Hospital. Up to the end of his life Dr. Wyatt was connected with various useful institutions that owe a debt of gratitude to him. He died in 1886, in his eighty-second year. DR. MOORHOTJSE. A pioneer Protector of the blacks. He was sent out from the Old Country in 1840 to fill this position. In the early days there was a ' Native Location," consisting of twelve huts, on the North Park Lands, opposite the gaol. Here the native children were taught to read, write, and sew. It was under the control of Dr. Moorhouse. He passed through some stirring experiences in the early times, and finally settled many miles north of Adelaide at Mount Re- markable. Here he had an estate to which he gave the name of " Bartigunya " a native name, we believe. OTHER PIONEER BUILDERS. 369 His body rests in a little cemetery near the quaint vil- lage of Melrose. On the tomb-stone the following verse is inscribed : " He hated falsehood's mean disguise. And loved the thing that's just; His honor, in his action lies, And here remains his dust." Ancient villagers say that the lines are characteristic of the man. There was no material need for him to prac- tice his profession, but in the interests of suffering humanity he did so. He undertook cases without hope of material reward, saying : " If I can relieve pain I am paid." He died in 1876 at an advanced age. JOHN BANKS SHEPHEKDSON. A pioneer school- master the first officially appointed to the colony. In company with the Rev. T. Q. Stow and William Giles (Manager of the South Australian Company) he came out in the ship " Hartley " in 1837. Speaking of his early experiences he said : " Adelaide had just been laid out, and the few people living there were located in tents, reed huts, wooden erections, and piese houses." These were so called after the man who first built them, Mr. Piesse. They were composed of mud and straw. When John B. Shepherdson arrived he tells us that " serious quarrels had taken place as the result of divided authority. Robert Gouger (the Colonial Secretary) was just returning home for the purpose of appealing to the Home Government for a settlement of unhappy differences. His tent was secured at a rental of 1 per week." A committee was formed to facilitate arrangements for opening school. It was held in a wooden erection on the North Park Lands, opposite Trinity Church. The pioneer schoolmaster did not long continue his scholastic duties. In Governor Robe's time he was appointed clerk of the Mount Barker Fench of Magistrates. Some years after he published a very useful book on " Practice of the Local Courts," dedicat- ing it to Governor MacDonnell. In 1861 he was ap- pointed Stipendiary Magistrate for Yorke's Peninsula, a 370 OTHER PIONEER BUILDERS. position that he occupied for about twenty-six yearn. In 1887 he tendered .his resignation, re- ceiving a letter from the Attorney-General (Hon. C. (', Kingston) thanking him for " his forty years of faithful service." Although eighty-eight years of age only a few days before his death he went to the polling booth to record his vote. He was " a grand old man," and passed away May 24th, 1897, aged eighty-eight years. ROBERT THOMAS. A pioneer printer. He and his family came out in the " Africane " in 1836. The site for the city was not then fixed. The family found a temporary resting place in a tent and rush hut at Hold- fast Bay. Robert Thomas was the printer and one of the proprietors of the " South Australian Gazette and Colonial Register." He had an ambition to found a paper in a new colony, and for the paper to run parallel with the life of the colony. This ambition was ful- filled. He was one of the deputation to receive Governor Hindmarsh when he landed at Holdfast Bay. Having brought a printing plant with him, he " set up " and printed the Proclamation of the Colony. At this time both press and type were on the beach at Holdfast Bay. A rush hut was soon erected, and this did duty as a printing office till the site of the city was fixed. Robert Thomas then removed his plant to a town acre. This was in Hindley-street, a little to the west of Morphett- street. We are indebted to the wife of this worthy pioneer for a most graphic description of the circum- stances under which the foundation-stone of the colony was laid. He passed away in July, 1860, aged seventy- eight years. Of him Sir George Grey has said : "He was a fine example of the earnest, able, energetic pioneer colonist; a man of great natural ability, and singular force of character." JOHN BARTON HACK. A pioneer contractor. Be- fore South Australia was founded, when Robert Gouger was trying to give birth to our State, he wrote in his journal : " Mr. Barton Hack, a Quaker, called to say he has some friends, persons of capital, desirous to emi- OTHER PIONEER BUILDERS. 3fl grate. He appears to be a highly respectable man, and is well connected/' Mr. Hack came to the Province in 1837. He was one of the Committee who named the streets of Adelaide. He first engaged in pastoral pur- suits, and then became a contractor. John Barton Hack worked well in helping to lay the foundations of our State, and suffered many reverses. He died October 4th, 1884. Barton-terrace, North Adelaide, bears his name. JOHN BAILEY. Pioneer gardener and botanist. All the old colonists will remember " Bailey's Garden " at Hackney. Though the site of the garden has been built upon, some of the grand old trees are still alive, and show signs of vigorous life. John Bailey was the first Government Botanist. He came to this State in 1838, and brought with him a variety of fruit and other trees. He helped to lay the foundations of our horticultural industry. Died in 1864. CAPTAIN EDWARD CHARLES FROME. A pioneer surveyor. He was appointed to succeed Colonel Light as Surveyor-General, and came to the colony in com- pany with a number of Sappers and miners. He was an energetic officer, and made great progress in sur- veying the Crown lands. He did useful work as an ex- plorer in the vicinity of Lake Torrens. See " Frome Expedition " in chapter on Exploration. It should be remembered that when the colony was in financial distress through Governor Gawler's lavish expenditure. Captain Frome generously consented to gratuitously perform the duties of Colonial Engineer. This saved the colony many pounds as well as secured to it the benefit of Captain Frome's talents. He returned to England in 1849, and rejoined the Royal Engineers, rising to the rank of Colonel. He died in the Old Land in 1890, aged eighty-eight years. Frome-road, within the city bounds, Lake Frome, and the District of Frome are named after him. HENRY INMAN. Pioneer police officer. He was in the English army, and came early to the new settle- 372 OTHER PIONEER BUILDERS. ment. He was appointed Superintendent of Police by Governor Hindmarsh, and saw some active and exciting service. For some time a bushranger had been living in the scrub in the vicinity of Encounter Bay. He had come overland from one of the other colonies and rode a magnificent horse, and was well armed. In return for rations he supplied the few settlers of Encounter Bay with kangaroo flesh. A plot was laid to capture him. He was asked to carry a letter to Adelaide to Mr. Edward Stephens at the Bank of South Australia. Being a good bushman, and well mounted, after some hesitancy he consented. He duly arrived in Adelaide; hitched his horse to the bank fence, and entered the bank. Mr. Stephens invited him into the kitchen, and directed the cook to provide him with a meal. The bushranger entered, carrying with him his loaded double-barrelled gun. Presently Superintendent Inman entered. In the most matter-of-fact way he took up the gun to examine its merits. The bushranger's suspicions were aroused. He bolted through the door, and made a rush for his horse. Just as he was mounting Super- intendent Inman seized the bridle. The bushranger drew a pistol and presented it. Inman. who was a tall powerful young man. and had been a Lancer in the British Army, seized the pistol at the lock, prevented it from discharging, and wrenched it out of the felon's hand. He was immediately captured. Later on we meet with Henry Inman leading an overland party, and severely speared in an affray with the blacks. Subse- quently he returned to England. The powerful young Lancer and police officer became interested in spiritual life and work, and entered the ministry of the Epis- copalian Church. The Inman River and Inman Valley bear his name. JOHN HOWARD ANGAS. A pioneer pastoralist -whose name is known throughout Australasia. He was born at Newcastle-on-Tyne on October 5, 1823. Came to South Australia in 1843 to manage his father's estate. In this work he was eminently successful. OTHER PIONEER BUILDERS. 375 In 1854 he again visited England, and returned to settle on his beautiful estate at Collingrove. For some yeais he sat in the Assembly for the District of Barossa, and from 1887 to 1893 he had a seat in the Legislative Council. In various ways he rendered great service to the province. " Few men have done more to improve the breed of farm stock or taken a greater interest in the progress of agriculture." His gifts to some of our charitable institutions have been of a munificent char- acter, and practically all of them have benefited from his generosity. He died May 17th. Ifi04. CHAPTER XXI. PAST AND PRESENT. After what we trust has been a pleasant and pro- fitable association, the author and the reader must part company. We undertook to reveal the process of nation building till South Australia reached her majority. This was on December 28th, 1857. The day was a memorable one. Early in the morning thousands were astir. A mysterious force seemed to be drawing all the colonists in one direction. From various points of the compass faces were turned towards Holdfast Bay. One desire had taken possession of the hearts of men, women, and children This was to reach the spot where the pilgrim fathers landed, and to do so as quickly as possible. Some were mounted on horses, and many were on foot. Vehicles of all kinds had been pressed into service. For three hours in the morning a dense mass of humanity moved in obedience to one law. The experience was unique. What was the explanation ? It was the twenty-first birthday of the colony. Twenty- one years ago Governor Hindmarsh had been carried " pick-a-back " from the " Buffalo." A few emigrants had preceded him. These lined the beach at Holdfast Bay. A move was then made to the tent of Robert Gouger, about a mile from the beach. Here the oaths of office were taken. The emigrants then gathered under the shade of a large gum tree, where George Stevenson read the Proclamation, and Governor Hind- marsh laid the foundation of what would eventually prove to be a vigorous community. Yes; twenty-one years had passed by since these historic events. The colony was now " of age," and the settlers decided to do honor to the occasion. PAST AND PRESENT. 375 In front of " Government Cottage," facing the place where Governor Hindmarsh and party landed, a large tent had been erected. Here Governor MacDonnell and his lady, with the leading public men of the com- munity and their wives, were expected to dine. Around this large pavilion were many smaller ones for the ac- commodation of visitors. The scene was a gay one. Thousands of colonists were present. Flags were flying, and strains of music floating on the breeze. On every hand hearty laughter and merry conversation were heard. There were to be athletic sports, sailing matches, rifle shooting, and many other attractions. At the banquet, in the large pavilion. Sir James Hurtle Fisher, first Resident Commissioner of South Australia, and President of the Legislative Council, was to preside. At the " old gum tree " a special ceremony was to take place. A brass plate was to be affixed bearing the fol- lowing inscription : " On this spot, on the 28th of December, 1836, the Colony of South Australia was proclaimed and estab- lished as a Province by Captain John Hindmarsh. R.N., the Governor thereof, acting in the name and on behalf of His Majesty King William Fourth, in the presence of the chief officers of the Government and other colonists. On the 28th December, 1857, the record of the above fact was here publicly affixed by Sir R. G. MacDonnell, Knight, C.B., Governor-in-Chief of the Province, in the presence of the assembled colo- nists, to commemorate the event of the colony attaining its twenty-first year, and to testify their feeling by a day of public rejoicing." " God Save the Queen." The day opened most auspiciously. The most admirable arrangements had been made. Alas ! how soon the brightest scene is clouded. How uncertain are all mundane events. The clouds gathered. About noon the rain began to fall. Hour after hour it con- 376 PAST AND PRESENT. tinued. The hotels were crowded. The booths were " fine weather erections," they offered no adequate protection. Thousands were drenched to the skin. The large pavilion, crowded with guests, was not water- proof. The rain came through. The guests were soaked, and the provisions too. The " Register " of the period said : " Every delicacy of the season was upon the tables; but, unfortunately, the pelting of the pitiless storm had the effect of dashing the cup of pleasure from the lips of the numerous guests." In spite of the rain, a large number of colonists went to " the old gum tree." Here, about noon, the brass plate was to be affixed. But Governor Mac- Donnell failed to put in an appearance, being detained by the rain. The Hon. James Hurtle Fisher presided at the banquet. Among the guests were Governor Mac- Donnell and his lady. After the Queen, the Prince Consort, and the Royal Family had been duly honored, the Chairman rose to propose a toast " Upon which he could (but perhaps ought not to) say a great deal. It was a subject - Here there was a loud report (it was the first boom of a Royal salute). The Chairman was equal to the occasion. Said he : " It was a sub- ject evidently worthy of a good report. It was a Here there was another loud boom. James Hurtle Fisher could no doubt contend with the antagonistic voices of political opponents, but he was no match for artillery. Amid great merriment he sat down, and waited patiently for the last peal. The salute of seven- teen guns over he rose again. " He thought that he was to have fired the great gun on that occasion, but it appeared there were others outside who appreciated, by inspiration, the toast he was about to propose. It was the health of their excellent and most worthy Governor-in-Chief, Sir Richard MacDonnell." The Governor now rises : " My first and most natural feeling, as you may suppose, would be to thank you for the marked kindness with which you have been PAST AND PRESENT. 377 pleased to receive my health. My predominant feel- ing, at present, is one of regret that the change in the weather should have inconvenienced so many of our fellow-colonists. South Australia is, however, a colony that has risen superior to many more trying circum- stances, and her people have ever exhibited a spirit that enabled them, like Mark Tapley, to be merry under the most adverse circumstances. Gentlemen, twenty- one years is not a long term in the history of a country or race, but it is a long portion of the life of those who founded the colony, therefore its termination furnishes a fitting occasion for commemoration. . . Those who can look back upon the past twenty-one years can see its history diversified by many a difficulty, en- countered manfully, and overcome; by many sanguine hopes deferred, but eventually realised. The first twenty-one years represented all the struggles incident to a country's infancy; but now and henceforth it will be incumbent upon you to realise the high hopes, and assume the resolute bearing of vigorous manhood. Everyone may have his own way of looking at the past, and I have mine, which is this : That in proportion as the colony has grown up, and the colonists been blessed with free institutions, and complete control of their own affairs, in the same proportion has their loyalty strengthened, and their love and "affection for their Sovereign become more manifest. . . When colonies were founded formerly it was too often to gratify avarice or lust of conquest; but South Australia stood out a singular exception to the rule on which colonies were founded, whether in the classic days of Greece or Rome, or later by Spain and other maritime countries. It was the result of an intelligent design, which marked an important epoch in colonization, and I am happy to be with you to commemorate the success of that experi- ment. Gentlemen, not an acre was surveyed when the design of your colony was conceived. The peculiar feature of that design was to make the money received for the purchase of land the means of introducing emi- grants to make that land productive, and to construct 378 PAST AND PRESENT. lines of communication between one point and another. That design has hitherto been more or less steadily adhered to, and I hope it will be long before you abandon the principle upon which your colony was founded and upon which it has flourished." After an able and appropriate speech, of which we have given only a part, the Governor gave " The Pros- perity of South Australia," and " The Health of the Hon. James Hurtle Fisher." This was received with en- thusiastic applause. Now came the event of the day : it was the chair- man's speech in reply. The pavilion stood on the beach where Governor Hindmarsh and staff had landed just twenty-one years before. James Hurtle Fisher was present on that occasion. Could he ever forget the scene ? One after another the events of foundation- day rise before him. Said he : " The imposing spec- tacle we now behold cannot fail to remind many among us of the scene presented on this same spot now twenty- one years since a scene which, though less grand and gay, yet possessed an interest and momentousness all its own, as containing the germ and promise of what we now gaze upon with such emotions of joy and gratitude. On that occasion how different was our appearance. Here we stood, fresh from the tossings of the ocean, surrounded with great novelties of uncertain omen, amid stern cares, eager questionings, and unaffected toils of mind and muscle. Here we stood, now looking back with tender, perhaps poignant thoughts, of the homes we had left; now looking forward, peering into the dark future for the homes we sought. Here we stood, and under the formalities of that memorable hour, swore allegiance to our Sovereign, vowed fidelity to our common interest as an organised community, and looked up to the Lord and King of all nations to shield and bless us. . . The forms of Howard, of Light, of Gouger, of Stevenson stood on this ground on that in- teresting day; and we may not withhold from names of more tender, more profound import, the tribute of a tear PAST AND PRESENT. 379 and pang all tiiat we dare pay on this occasion, though far less than is due, it is pleasant, however, to remember that the inroads of mortality have not been great among the oldest settlers, and that vast accessions have been made to our numbers, including multitudes whose social virtues and moral worth have won the confidence and esteem of their precursors; and that from among our own playful, prattling circles, some have risen to the leadership of families, the activities of gainful com- merce, and the responsibilities of position and influence. We meet to celebrate the majority of our colony. As a child South Australia attracted more than ordinary notice. It could never be called feeble, or dull, or idle. It always had vivacity, energy, and confidence quite equal to its years." We must now leave the joyful scene which we have been picturing and come down to our own day. Forty- nine years have passed by since the festivity took place, the memory of which we have been reviving; and seventy years have gone into oblivion since the foundation of the colony was laid. In this year of grace 1907 let us look back and contrast the past with the present. Before the foundation of the colony South Aus- tralia was almost a terra incognita. Captain Flinders had surveyed its coast; Captain Sturt and party had sailed down the Murray; Captain Barker and his men had walked over the Adelaide plains, ascended Mount Lofty, and obtained a glimpse of the country; for several years some white sealers had been living on Kangaroo Island; but the real interior of South Australia was as little known as the other side of the moon. It was a well-appointed domicile, awaiting a suitable tenant It was made to be inhabited by the highest type of man and until the purpose of its creation was realised theru was something awanting and amiss. There was nc lowing of oxen, nor bleating of sheep; no ploughman's whistle, nor milkmaid's song; no long freshly-turned fur- rows, nor fields of waving corn The air had no* 380 PAST AND PRESENT. vibrated with the sound of horse's hoof, nor the rumble of wheels. The music of the whetted scythe no ear had heard. There were no roads, bridges, fences, nor houses surrounded with flowers and fruit-bearing trees. Save the loud, ludicrous laugh of the jackass, the howl of the dingo, or the war cry of the blackfellow, few startling noises were heard. The country abounded in game. Kangaroos and wallabies roamed about in flocks. Here and there families of wombats dwelt in their holes. The emu and her chicks sped over the plain. On the lakes were wild fowl, and the Murray teemed with fish. Where Ade- laide now stands serpents glided and kangaroos fed. The blackfellow held undisputed sway. His was a free and easy kind of life. Except the fear of sorcery, and an occasional tribal fight, there was little to trouble his soul. The day was spent in eating and drinking, making weapons or canoes, netting wild fowl, hunting the. kangaroo, and spearing fish. We have spoken of evil traits in the character of the South Australian blacks; but he had some good qualities as well as bad. In these pages reference has Veen made to a few wild white men (whalers and sealeis) who had found their way to the South Australian coast before colonization took place. The ReV. George Taplin.. who spent many years among the natives in the early days, tells a story that he heard. Some of the white- savages on Kangaroo Island stole, from the mainland, near Cape Jervis, three native women, and took them to the Island. When the prisoners had been detained by their captors a short time they began to cast about for means to get back to their husbands and families. At last they found a small dinghy belonging to the sealers.. It would only hold two. Two of the women had no children, but the third had an infant at the breast, so the childless lubras took the dinghy and started for the mainland, reaching it in safety. The poor mother left behind with her babe, must have pined sadly for her country and friends; but nothing was heard of her for PAST AND PRESENT. 381 some time. One day the natives found her body on the beach of the mainland, just above high water mark, with the baby tied on her back. She had swum Back- stairs Passage (about nine miles in the narrowest part, and infested with sharks) and then, in a state of utter exhaustion, crawled to the shore and died. In our early chapters we heard the gloomy pro- phecies of the " London Times " in 1834 when the Colonization Bill was passed. Said the editor, after the Bill had passed into Committee : " Let the gentle- men take their fling," two years will be sufficient to show " whether the distrust we have felt it right to avow," or " the anger it has occasioned " is more rationally founded. We have seen the first colonist (Samuel Stephens) put his foot on South Australian shore. We have viewed the early emigrants' tents pitched among the trees and rushes that skirted the shores of Holdfast Bay. Beds made of rushes, pork barrels and packing cases extemporised as tables; emigrants dragging their goods to the site of a city that was to be, have passed before our view. Where those tents sixty-nine years ago were pitched the large and aristocratic town of Glenelg now stands. A few miles inland, where the serpent glided, the kan- garoo fed, and the blackfellow roamed, the queenly city of Adelaide rears her head. Here are to be seen some of the finest buildings and streets that the Southern Hemisphere can show. Here is a system of deep drainage, and of water supply that is unsurpassed. Trams and motor cars are running in all directions. Through country that seventy years ago was unex- plored and unknown trains now rush laden with pas- sengers, wheat, wool, sheep, cattle, and mineral wealth. Around the city there is a beautiful park; outside are crowded suburbs. To walk down Montefiore Hill on a beautiful day in spring or autumn is an inspiration. In the foreground are flowers, plantations, and buildings nestling in foliage. In the background are the magni- 382 PAST AND PRESENT. ficent hills. A visitor to Adelaide in 1907, writing to the " Sydney Morning Herald," said : " In Adelaide one has no feeling of being cramped. There is elbow room for institutions, trees, grass, everything and every- body that is good. . When making a special study of its gardens, parks, and street planting that feeling of abundance of space impressed itself upon my mind more strongly than ever. Adelaide is a beautiful city r and, as I entered it, a gentleman in the train said to me, with a wave of his hand : ' My dear sir, the finest city on earth, and I have travelled a good deal.' ' Dotted over the country are towns, villages, gardens, and farms. It seems like a fairy tale. Ail has been accomplished in less than seventy-one years. Sixty-nine years ago the population was about five hundred; to-day it is more than three hundred and eighty-three thousand. In 1886 we celebrated our Jubilee. Speaking on that occasion Sir Henry Ayers said : " Something must be said of the country we have been in possession of for fifty years. It may not unreasonably be demanded of us to state what use we have made of the talents committed to our care for the benefit of mankind. We have utilised, for pastoral purposes, many thousand square miles of country, on which depasture seven millions of sheep, three hundred thousand head of cattle, and one hundred and seventy thousand horses. We have brought under cultivation nearly three millions of acres. We have made it a country productive of wool, of corn, of fruit, of wine, of oil, and a land flowing with milk and honey. We have completed telegraphic communication across the continent, and thus brought Australia within speaking distance of all parts of the world. We have constnicted over one thousand mile& of railway, and many thousand miles of macadamized roads. We have erected various buildings, and built bridges, docks, wharves, jetties, and other works re- quired for our wants. We have made ample provision for educating the people, including the establishment PAST AND PRESENT. 383 and endowment of a University. We have founded hospitals and asylums for the insane, the sick, the in- curable, the blind, the dumb, the deaf, and the neces- sitous poor. . . But some captious critic may say: All these things are for yourselves; tell us what you have done for your brethren abroad ? We have fed the people of the outside world with breadstuff s to the value of some thirty-five millions sterling. We have clothed them with some forty million worth of wool. We have sent them nearly twenty millions sterling of minerals and metals. Could the greatest optimist among the early settlers have predicted such results ?" As our pilgrim fathers drew near to the shores of South Australia more than sixty years ago, in summer time, it was with mingled feelings that they viewed the scene. From the deck of the vessel, as it stood out in St. Vincent's Gulf, they could see dry-looking hills and apparently dry plains. The mind was clouded, and the soul despondent. What a revelation a few decades have made. It was in the year 1838 that our first Governor (Sir John Hindmarsh) left the colony. It had then been founded two years. We give the statistics for the years 1838 and 1906. This will give the reader some idea of the progress made in sixty-eight years. Some of the lines include the Northern Territory : 1838. 1906. Population 6,000 .. 383,831 Acres under Cultivation .. 200 .. 3,368,708 Horses 480 .. 216,345 Cattle 2,500 .. 647,631 Sheep 28.000 . . 6,202,330 Revenue 1,448 .. 2,806,011 Exports 6,442 11,877,256 A little more than seventy years ago, when prepara- tions were being made for the founding of South Aus- tralia, John Stephens wrote a book upon it called the "Land of Promise." At that time the colony was trying to struggle into existence. It was a mere embryo, 384 PAST AND PKB8ENT. but there were marvellous possibilities bound up in it. In the nature of things John Stephens could only speculate; to what a marvellous extent his speculations have been fulfilled. It is now a " Land of Canaan " such as no Canaanite or Jew ever looked upon. It is indeed a land flowing with wheat, wool, and fruit, as well as with milk and honey. Here fruits of almost all kinds grow to perfection. The visitor to South Australia should try to be present at our Horticultural and Agricultural Shows. He should travel by rail through our Northern Areas at harvest time and see the vast stacks of wheat awaiting carriage at the various railway stations. The following are a few items of production for the season embracing part of 1905 and 1906 : Wheat 20,143,798 bushels Hay 435,546 tons. Apples . . .... . . 405,223 cases. Honey 1,193,421 Ibs. Wine 2,845,853 galls. Butter 8,226,805 Ibs. Cheese 1,174,867 Ibs. In 1906 there was held in Adelaide the record wool sale of the world. From statistics courteously supplied by the Go- vernment Statist the following items have been taken : Value of wheat exported in 1906 . . . . 2,012,915 Value of fruit (fresh and dried) .. .. 115,077 Value of meat (fresh, frozen, and preserved) 155,436 In reading these results the reader must bear in mind ftiat the country which produced them is but seventy years of age. In our chapter on " Some Useful Legislation," we saw Captain Bromley, our first schoolmaster, gathering the children of the pioneers together for instruction. This was on Kangaroo Island, under the shade of a large tree. To-day we have 1,420 teachers, schools dotted all over the State, and in 1905 the Government spent PAST AND PRESENT. 385 149,183 on primary education; 2,058 on secondary education; and 9,094 on school buildings, making a total of 160,335 spent in one year on education. The natives have not been forgotten. During the last seventy years several mission stations have been established. One of the most successful has been the mission at Point MacLeay. For many years it was under the able superintendence of the Rev. George Taplin, who deserves honorable mention in South Australian history. Visitors to the colony should try to see this station, situated in one of the most interesting parts of South Australia. They would sail over the historic- sheet of water through which the boat of a white man (Captain Sturt) glided for the first time since creation seventy-six years ago. Missionary work among the .aborigines has been much retarded by the lecherous con- duct of some whites. In the chapter on " The Rise of Ecclesiastical Organizations " we saw a few men and women, in 1836. going to the rush hut of the principal surveyor at Hold- fast Bay (probably George S. Kingston's). Here a service in connection with the Anglican Church was held. The congregation consisted of twenty-five persons. They took their seats with them, and the signal for assembling was the firing of a gun. A little later on we saw a few Methodists meeting in a hut, on the banks of the Torrens, to form a church. Fifteen <>ave in their names as members. Then the pioneer Congregational minister (the Rev. Thomas Q. Stow) <-ame upon the scene, holding service in a tent, with Governor Hindmarsh sitting before him on a box. A little later we saw a few members of the Roman Catholic Church meeting in the house of Mr. Phillips. East- terrace, to take steps to establish a mission. We listened to the debates in the pioneer Legislative Council dealing with the question of State-aid to religion. Said Robert R. Torrens (afterwards Sir Robert, member for Cambridge in the House of Commons) : " So far as religious instruction went voluntaryism was a fallacy. 386 PAST AND PRESENT. . . . The burden of supporting public worship fell upon a few." Said another pioneer Senator : "He believed the people had not the means to build churches, or to maintain ministers." Ah ! These were the days when the faith of some of the pioneers was weak wher. they could not shake off their old world ideas. In an ecclesiastical sense what do we see after the lapse of three-score years and ten ? A perfect network of churches through the State of South Australia, in the bush as well as in the suburbs. In these churches hundreds of men minister without receiving one penny from the State. In an ecclesiastical as well as in a political sense " the little one has become a thousand, and the small one a strong nation." The following poem will bring the " past and the present " vividly before the mind of the reader. It is true to nature and to experience, and is one of the best specimens of Australian muse that the author has seen. If the reader will turn to the first chapter of this book he will see a picture " Along the Murray." It represents Moorunde, where the heroic Edward John Eyre, in the early days, was located r.s Protector of the Aborigines. ALONG THE MURRAY. Hroad, and fair, and free old Murray, Rolling ever on his way, 'ailing to the mist and starlight, Singing through the shade and sunlight, '."hrough tho years unchanged, unending Mirrors night and day. Long ago the bright fires leaping On its reeded margin wide Saw the poor, rude natives gather Hound the cheerful blaze together, And their weird and mournful chanting Mingled with his tide. In tho past, forgotten ages, Who can tell or know how long Murray rolled his mighty waters. Fed his dusky sons and daughters. PAST AND PRESENT. 387 1 hrilled the vast, unbroken scrubland With his wondrous song. Now ihfc white man's foot has echoed Where the swan and wildfowl rest, Startled from its sleep the scrubland, Scared the curlew in the grassland, Driven out the timid emu From its sheltered nest. Ruthless hands have stripped the forest, Hunted, from their lowly lair, All its dwellers, strange and harmless, Left the grey flats grey and charmless, Left the plains less fair. Ruthless feet have crushed the lilies By the sheltered billabong. Down the shady river reaches With their cool and pebbled beaches Comes the "hallo!" of the woodman And his echoing song. All the simple life has vanished; All the old, strange scenes are fled; With tho morning, fresh and early, Comes no "cooee!" from the wurlie Bringing back the duslty huntsmen Through the sunrise red. Only by some lonely shallow, Shadow-haunted, ripple-stirred. Still may be tne waning traces, Mouldering hut, or grass-grown places. Records of a hunted people Graven without a word. i On old Murray shower and sunshine, Mist and shadows cross and sway, All the old, strange life has vanished, Only he by time untarnished. Through the years unchanged, unending. Mirrors night and day. Lillian Miller. The future of South Australia is beyond our ken. For better or worse, for richer or for poorer she has become part of a great Commonwealth. The federation of the colonies is now an accomplished fact. Our destiny is now more especially bound up in that of other colonies. We are a united people. Our position 388 PAST AND PRESENT. among the nations of the earth will be decided not so much by our material resources as by the position we take up in relation to the Power in the universe that makes for righteousness. Said Governor Hindmarsh, when leaving the colony : " If the colonists do them- selves justice, if they respect the laws, and ATTEND TO THE ORDINANCES OF RELIGION, if they continue the habits of temperance and industry which have so happily prevailed, South Australia must realise the most ardent wishes of its friends, and acquire in a few years a rank among the Provinces of the British Empire without example in Colonial history." Not only did our first Governor lay the political foundation stone of the colony, but in the wise words just quoted he laid down the principles on which all national greatness is based. Said our late beloved Queen Victoria to Lord Tennyson, then our Governor : " If only my people will love God all will be well." "The Charter's read; the rites are o'er; The trumpet's blare and cannon's roar Are sileiit, and the flags are furled; But so not ends the task to build Into the fabric of the world The substance of our hopes fulfilled To work as those who greatly have divined The lordship of a continent assigned As God's own gift, for service to mankind." J. Brunton Stephens. INDEX. Abbott, Pastor, 312, 345, 357 Accession, Queen Victoria, 85 Adelaide Why so called, 09 A Feast in Pioneer Times. 141 Angas, George Fife. 30, 45, 46, 47, 221, 228, 299, 316, 342 Angas, John Howard, 372 An Ungracious Reception, 175 Anxious Bay, 17 Arrangements for Self-govern- ment, 217 Ashton, 366 Ayers, Sir Henry. 145, 160, 236, 313, 349, 382 B Backstairs Passage, 22 Barker, Capt., 26 Baring, F., M.P., 38 Bagot, Oapt., 177, 178. 182, 190, 203, 204, 209, 236, 327 Baker, Hon. John, 203, 222, 228, 233, 236, 318, 343 Bagot, John T., 223, 233, 237, 343 Babbage, Benjamin H., 237, 351 Bailey, John, 140, 371 Bass, George, 277, 278 Baxter killed, 252 Beare, William L., 55 Benson, Rev. J., 304 Bills dishonoured, 119 Bill for better government S.A., 155 Blyth. Arthur, 233, 237, 347 Btankinsopp, Capt., 311 Bonney, Hon. Chas., 94, 104, 237 Bold and comprehensive policy, 112 Botanic Gardens, 140 Brown, John, 85, 106, 319 Bryan, Mr., 124 Bromley, Capt., 214 Browne, Dr., 260, 261 Breeze, James, 299 Buffalo, 64 Buffalo Row, 81 Bushrangers, 135 Burr a Mine, 157 Bull, J. W., 80, 157 Bullion Act, 216 Campbell, Major, 203, 205 Cadell, Capt., 227 Cape Catastrophe, 20 Coffin's Bay, 18, 32 Colonization Plan, 35 Colonization Bill, 37 Colonization Bill passed, 41 Coromandel Row, 81 Committee who named streets. 106 Cooper, Judge. 142, 259, 273,. 366 Coles, James W., 237 Crown Colony, 155 Cygnet, 62 Dashwood, Capt., 156, 223 324 Davies, Chas., 236 Da vies, William B., 237 Davenport, Sir Samuel, 170 r 177, 178, 179, 183, 189, 236 328 Davenport, Robert, 203, 223, 332 Davison, F., 93 Delays and Difficulties, 44 Dean, Horace, 237 Discussion in House of Com- mons, 37 Disputes, 106 Division in Methodist Church State-aid, 200 390 INDEX. District Councils Act, 216 Drummond, Rev. R., 215, 303 Dunn, Hon. John, 237. 353 Duffield, Walter, 202, 233, 237, 347 Dutton, Francis Stacker, 201. 203, 217, 233, 236, 331 Duke Wellington, 41 East. Samuel, 299, 306 Earthquake, 91 Ecclesiastical Organizations. 297 Education Bill, 215 Election, 199, 231, 235 Elder, Alex. Lang, 203. 212, 334 Ellis, John, 203 Emigration Square, 81 Encounter Bay, 23 Everard, Dr.,' 128, 236, 348 Exeter Hall Meeting, 32, 51 Expectations not realised, 197 Exploring Expeditions, 241, 275 Eyre, John Edward (Life of), 284 Father S.A. Railways, 229 Feast to Blacks, 111 First Commissioners suggested 44 First Commissioners ap- pointed, 45 First Anniversary of Colony, 91 First Steamer, 125 First Municipal Election, 143 First Mayor, 144 First Professional Concert, 144 First School, 214 First Parliament, 236 Field. Lieut,, 131, 368 Finniss, Hon. B. T. 170, 200, 202, 219, 222, 230, 232. 235, 329, 336, 339, 344 Finlayson, Pastor, 76, 90 Fisher, Sir James Hurtle, 64, 106, 107, 123, 144, 173, 221, 233, 236, 273, 316, 376 Flinders, Oapt., 15, 276 Flinders Range, 21 Fowlers Bay, 16 Forster. Anthony 233, 236, 332 Forrest, Sir John, 256 Franklin, Sir John, 20 Freeling, Sir Arthur. 236, 334 Frome. Capt., 371 Gawler, Governor, 110, 125, 140 Gawler, Town of. 125 Gilles, Osmond, 65. 300, 320 Giles, William, 203, 208, 225, 228, 299, 337 Gilbert, Thomas, 319 Gouger, Robert, 29, 106, 107 Gouger-street, 29 Grant Lieut. James, 13 Grey, Governor, 147, 297. His Policy, 149 His Return, 161, 314 Gwynne, Edward C. 202, 204, 218, 233, 236, 340 Grainger, John, 202 Gulnare Plains, 2D6 > H Hanson, Sir Richard, 34, 50, 202, 208. 225, 228, 232, 235, 338 Hawdon, Joseph, 93 Hagen. Jacob. 156, 190, 191, 208, 323 Hall, George, 201, 204, 236, 333 Hart, Capt. John, 201, 203, 206, 233, 237, 340 Hare, Charles Simeon, 201, 204. 237, 337 Hack, John Burton, 370 Hay, Hon. Alex., 233, 237, 349 Hahn. Capt. (Hahndorf). 305 Hallett, John, 237 INDEX. 391 Harvey, John,. 237 Hindmarsh Governor, 48, 52, 65, 106, 109, 317 Hindmarsh Sauare, 109 Howard, Rev. C. B., 64, 139, 141, 162, 300 Horrocks, J. A., 274, 295 Horrocks Pass, 295 Hughes, John B., 233, 237, 344 I Impressions of a Visitor, 237 Imposition of Royalties, 171 Improved Prospects, 158 Investigator Strait, 22 Inman, Henry, 124, 131, 136, 371 Interesting Letter, 162 Indignation Meeting, 172 Jeff co tt, Sir John, 311, 318 Jews and State-aid to Religion 185 Jiekling, Henry, 91, 365 K Kangaroo Island, 22 Kapunda Mine, 156 Karel, Pastor, 304 Kingston, Sir George S., 86, 203, 208, 222, 233, 237, 320 Klemzig, 305 Krichauff, F. E. H. W., 237, 351 L Lake Alexandrina, 25 Lady Mary Pelham 62 Lake Victoria. 99 Lake Bonney, 101 Leake, Robert R., 237 League against State-aid, 186 Light. Colonel, 63, 144 Lipson, Capt., 243, 318 Lindsay, Arthur F.. 237 Lillecrapp, William, 299 London Times, 42, 88, 153, 237, 381 Longbottom, Rev. W., 201. 307 Lutheran Church, 304 M Mackinnon, Mr., M.P., 154 MacDonnell, Governor, 230, 376 Mann, Charles, 320, 366 McLaren, David, 122, 139. 142, 181 Macgowan, Schoolmaster, 216 Marks, Morris, 237 MacDermott, Marshall 233, 237 Menge, Prof., 363 Memory Cove, 19 Milne. Sir W. A 349 Mildred, Henry, 151. 237, 349 Mount Brown, 21 Mount Lofty, 22 Mount Barker, 27 Morphett, Sir John, 53, 54, 156, 176, 178, 183, 200, 228, 236, 273, 320, 325 Morgan, Capt., 55, 56 Mounted Police, 124 Moorhouse, Dr.. 368 Murray River, 24, 226 Mundy, Alfred, 156, 176, 184, 189, 323 Murphy, Bishop, 304 N Natives, 128 New Council, 156 New Constitution, 198 Nominee and Elective Coun- cil, 199 New Legislative Council, 232 Newland, Rev. R. W., 302 Neales, John Bentham, 203, 233, 236, 274, 342 O'Halloran, Major 156, 171, 174. 177, 178. 184, 186, 189 232, 236, 258, 272, 324 Officers for the Province, 48 Onkaparinga, 103 392 INDEX. "Parkhurst Bovs." 317 Parting of the Wave. 179 Parliament BilJL 217 Parliament Bill passed, 235 Past and Present, 374 Peacock, William, 151. 203. 205. 224, 233, 343 Peake, Edward.. 237 Penwortham, 275 Piesse, L., 265 Pioneer Statistics. 109. 146, 159 Port Lincoln, 20, 23 Port Road. 139 Poole, J. (Death of), 264 Proclamation Day, 65 Provision for Self Govern- ment, 231 Pullen. Lieut., 367 Question of World-wide In- terest, 208 Rapid, 63 Randell, Capt., 226 Rankine, John. 233 Reynolds, Hon. Thos.. 200, 233, 237, 345 Ridley, John, 157. 362 Robe. Governor, 169. 180, 191 Royalty Bill, 171 " Suspended, 198 Rossi ter Bay, 255 Russell. Lord John. 117. 231 South Australian Association, 31 South Australian Company, 47, 298 South Australian Literary Association, 50 South Australian "Register," 84, 232, 237, 299. 303. 359 South Australian "Adver- tiser," 257 Savings Bank, 193 Scott, Abraham, 236 Scott. William. 236 Scott. Edward Bate, 2"><> Scammell, L., 237, 354 Sealers. 27, 57 Select Committee, 152 Shepherdson, J. B., 107, 309 Short, Bishop, 300 Smoky, Bay, 17 Smed'ley, Carrington, 237 Smillie, Win., 156. 184, 212, 323 Spencer's Gulf, 21 Spring. Rice, 41 Streaky Bay, 17 St. Vincent's Gulf, 22 Sturt, Capt., 24, 15<>. 200. 202, 204, 25, 257, 282 Stephens, Samuel, 58. 298, 356 Stephens, Edward. 106, 140, 173, 186, 220, 273, 299, 306, 312, 361 Stephens, John. 160, 169, 176, 186, 192, 195, 228, 337, 358, 383 Stevenson, George, 67, 321 Stephen, George Milner, 110 Stagg, Joseph, 136, 366 Stanley, Lord, 154 State-aid to Religion, 181, 231 Stow. Rev. T. Q., 215. 301 Stuart, John McDouall. 2(30, 262. 266, 269, 273 Stirling, Edward, 232. 233. 236. 341 Taplin. Rev. G., 26. 129. 385 Thistle, John, 18 The "Courier," 43 Thomas, Mrs. Robert. 08, 73, 299 Thomas, Mr. Robert, 84. 370 Tinline, Geo., 217 Todd, Sir Charles, 331 Tolmer, Inspector, 125. 136 INDEX. 393 Torrens, Ool., 29, 31 Torrens, Sir R. R., 202, 207, 219, 232, 335 Tradegy at Port Lincoln, 133 U Ullathorne, Rev. Dr. (V.G.), 303 W Wakefield, Edward G., 30, 154 Waterhouse, George M., 203, 219, 228, 237, 333 Watts, Alfred, 233 Watte. Postmaster General, 365 Work, David, 237 Whitmore, Wolryche, 33, 37, 40 Where shall City be built? 62 When will Governor come? 64 White. John C., 306 Wrecks, 134, 308, 310 Wyatt, Dr., 368 Yorkee Peninsula, 22 Young, Governor, 194 Young, Thomas, 237 Younghusband. William, 203, 208, 225, 227, 228, 233, 236, 342 OTHER WORKS BY THE REV. JOHN BLACKET. On Sale art) the Methodist Book Depot "SOCIAL DISEASES AND SUGGESTED REME- DIES," being a Criticism of some State Socialistic Theories. Price 2/. "Timely and Able." "Sydney Methodist." "REMINISCENCES OF A CITY SUBURB AND AN OLD SAINT," being sketches of the Early History of Unley. Price, Sixpence. Illustrated. "NOT LEFT WITHOUT WITNESS, or DIVINE TRUTH IN THE LIGHT OF REASON AND REVE- LATION." Price, 3/6. 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