. is ^^^^^^^^^^ PROGRESSIVE COOKERY ^ BY (DRS. E. A\. HINCKLEY - >: .. + .; . + ; ^ + ; THE LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LOS ANGELES IT WASHES' THEM WHITER AND SOFTER THAN ANY OTHER BRAND IT NEEDS NO ^*,^IT NEEDS NO BOILER Wielanfc & SDinmore MAKE IT ^ X\i CA-AAA. . Good- Bye, Milkman! USE HIGHLAND" (Team // is prepared with neatness and scrupulous care, always as pure, sound and natural as it comes fresh from healthy cows, always ready for use, keeps perfectly sweet as long as the can remains closed and thoroughly takes the place of eitbet raw mik or cream if properly diluted. Of special value for infant feeding, being completely sterilised. /'OK SALE RY GROCERS AND DRUGGISTS Prepared by Helvetia Milk Condensing Co. HIGHLAND, ILL. THE LEADING TOURIST AND FAMILY HOTEL ON THE COAST CORNER OF SUITER AND JONES STREETS SAN FRANCISCO, CAL. Large and Sunny Rooms En Suite or Single, for Families and Transient Sanitary Plumbing and all Modern Improvements. SPECIHL INDUCEMENTS TO EflSTERN TOURISTS CUISINE UNSURPASSED A\RS. A\. E. PE/MDi-ETOtt, Prop. BUTTERICK & GO'S Celebrated For Ladies, Misses, boys and Little Children's Garments Catalogues mailed free H. K. 124 POST STREET SAN FRANCISCO THESE ENGRAVINGS REPRESENT ACCURATE AND USEFUL FOR SALE ONLY BY Mrs. E. M. Hinckley Orders may be left at Robertson's Book Store 126 POST STREET, S. F. AT COOK BOOKS Robertson's 126 POST STREET, S. F. RUSSIAN COFFEE POT For making Drip Coffee By using this Coffee Pot, double the usual quantity of coffee may be made from the same amount of ground coffee. It not only boils, but steams the coffee. While the water is boiling the steam ascends and permeates the ground coffee, and when the water boils the bowl is reversed by touch ing the handle and the water drips slowly through, carry- ing with it the full strength and aroma of the coffee, no steam or aroma escaping. We have them in sizes to hold from two cups to twelve cups each, at prices from $3.50 to $8.50 a piece. They are made of brass, handsomely mounted, and suspended from a brass arch, and beneath is a stationary alcohol lamp. Coffee made in this way should be prepared on the table, just prior to time of serving it; less than five minutes are required to pre- pare it. It is particularly recommended for after-dinner (black) coffee. This pot will soon pay for itself by the great quantity of coffee saved. FOB SALE ONLY BY GOLDBERG, BOWEN LEBENBAUM J=R7SNCISCO. Waiifs ESTKBL.ISHED 1556 213 SUTTER STREET Near Kearny Street San Francisco, Cal. Only the best of material is used in our establishment, and therefore our products are strictly first class. Terrapin Stew a Specialty. Wedding Breakfasts, Overland Lunches prepared. Family trade solicited. The Family Dining-Rootn connected with our establishment offers the best inducements to Eastern Visitors who are in search of a quiet, elegantly appointed Restaurant of undoubted excellence. SWAIN BROTHERS, 213 Sutter Street No connection with any other establishment. IK YOU WISH TO Bake or Roa^t WITHOUT, AT THE SAME TIME Quickly Evenly Thoroughly^ Economically ROASTING THE COOK THE MONITOR STEEL RANCEI HOLB^OOK, MET^ILL & STETSO^ San Francisco and Sacramento Sole Agents for the Pacific Coast Extract of DCCC utti. The best and most economical "Stock" for I A T Soups, Etc. % ?f One pound equals forty-five pounds of h* prime lean Beef. N< Send to us for our book of receipts, showing H U use of ARMOUR'S EXTRACT in Soups and A Sauces. ARMOUR & CO., Chicago. Z FOR SALE BY ALL GROCERS AND DRUGGISTS W. F. BECK & CO. * Commission Merchants OFFICE AND SALESROOMS: WAREHOUSE: 112 and 1 14 California St. 30 and 32 Fremont St. SAN FRANCISCO, CAL. BRKNCH HOUSES PORTLAND, OREGON - - - - 26 North Front Street CHICAGO, IM,. - . 55 wabash Avenue 1,08 ANGELES, CAI,. . aa8 West Second Street REPRESENTING ON PACIFIC COAST PRICE BAKING POWDER Co., Chicago, 111. LAUTZ BROS & Co. Soaps, Buffalo, N. Y. NATIONAL STARCH MFG. Co., New York, N. Y. L. MCMURRAY PACKING Co., Fredrick, Md. TOWLK SYRUP Co., St. Paul, Minn. 'PAERELL Co.-Syrups, Omaha, Neb. COOPER'S OLIVB OIL. PROGRESSIVE COOKERY COMPILED FROM A SERIES OF LESSONS GIVEN AT THE SCHOOL OF COOKERY UNDER THE DIRECTION OF MRS. E. M. HINCKLEY AUTHOR OK "CHAFING DISH COOKERY," "INVALID COOKERY," ETC., ETC. f MRS. E. M. HINCKLETS SERVICES CAN BE SECURED FOR Demonstration Lessons in Cookery, American and Foreign And Lessons in Practical Cookery. The Invalid Course to Nurses at Hospitals and Lessons at Private Institutions are the same as given at the Public Schools of Boston. For Particulars, address the Publishers, as below. f San jfrancisco printing Co. JAS. A. PABISER, MANAGKK 1892. MEDICAL OBSTETRICAL SURGICAL [Confinement] "Alpha" Male ^ Female Nurses', Dressers'^ Masseurs' Agency Established July, 188'J. Registered at Sacramento, February. 1S92. FRANK E. GOODBAN, Proprietor MRS. F. K. GOODliAX, Manager Main Office, 1117 Van Ness Ave., bet. Geary and Tost Streets, S. F., < ;il. L. D. TELEPHONE li.'iT!'. Branches: S3 Grant Ave. (open all night), 131, Suffer, SIM Geary, 1113&SOOO Market >7.--.. / Fran- cisco; cor. Seventh & Market and 1201 Broadway Sts., Oakland: a A Second Ave., San .Uatui: Fourth & KSts., Sacramento; 9!& Main St., Stockton; E. Santa Clara ct- Second Sts., San Jose: ,',<> / Ave., Santa Cruz; Fourth and B Sts., San Rafael; Park St. fr Santa Clara Ave., Alamcda: and Center and Shattnck Sts., Berkeley. Experienced and reliable MALE and FEMALE Professional Nurses (with or without diplomas). Dressers or Masseurs furnished for every kind of disease, at ANY HOUR of the DAY or NIGHT, to all parts of the city or country. No FEE CHARGED FOR FURNISHING THEM. OVERTWO HUNDRED PICKED NURSEsof all ages, religions, nationalities and training (from the best hospitals in America and Europe) onits list. Leeching, Cupping, Catheterizing and Dressing of any kind performed (instrument* provided), Anaesthetics administered, Operations and Autopsies attended, liaths (medicated or otherwise given), also Galvanic and Faradic Electricity or Massage Treatment, at private residences by skilled dressers subject to the instructions of the patient's doctor. Helpless and insane patients accompanied to and brought from distant places, in a care- ful and satisfactory manner by responsible attendants furnished with all the requisite appliances. TERMS: REGULAR NURSES (1st grade): FEMALE, (for female patients) $20 to $25; (for male and insane patients or contagious diseases of both sexes) $25. per week MALE, $5 per day or night (of twelve hours), $8 for both. DITTO, (2d grade): FEMALE (for female patients) 120, (for male and insane patients or contagious diseases of both sexes) $20 to $25 per week MALK. $ I to $5 per day or night, $7 to $8 for both. ASSISTANT OR SOCIETY NURSES (3d grade): FEMALE (for female patients) |16: (for male and insane patients) $16to$20 per week, MALE, $3 to |4 per day or night, $5 to $6 for both. Female Nurses by the day: First grade, f3.75; Second Do., $3 to $3.50: Third Do., $2.30 to $2.75. Nurses' meals, massage treatments and traveling expenses for any member sent outside of San Francisco are additional to the above rates. DRESSERS, MALE OR FEMALE, $2 to $5 per visit. MASSEURS, MALE, general treatments $2 to $2.50, local treatments three for $5. Female, general treatments $1.50 to $2.00, local treatments three for $4. Dressers' and Masseurs' prices are for the city only, country visits extra. For Itemized Prices see Price Lists at the Agency's Main or Branch Offices, which its members are not permitted to exceed when engaged on cases coming through it, any reduc- tion in the same being left to their own option. N. B. All the members of this Agencv are required to furnish the favorable recommen- dations of three physicians as to their habits and proficiency, before being placed on its list. and are only retained on it during such time as they prove reasonably satisfactory to their employers; they are in addition divided into three grades, according to their ability, experience, training, manner and duration of satisfactory membership, their prices varying accordingly, the 1st grade consisting of those who have been tried on the Agency's cases and found entirely competent and satisfactory; the 2d either new members or those not sufficiently qualified for the former class, the 3d are attendants only. Doctors and patrons will greatly aid the proprietor in his endeavors to supply none but satisfactory and competent persons'by reporting to his wife (the manager) or himself, if disengaged, at the Main Office, should any serious neglect or fault be committed, or overcharge be made, by one of its members while in their employ, and such communications will be at once seen to and, if wished, held strictly confidential; as changes for said reasons in the Agency's staff are occasionally made by him, he guarantees as members only those sent from it. either direct or through its branch offices, at the time the order for the nurse is given. No attention should be paid to nurses who state that they are members of this Agency, unless endorsed at the Main Office, as many represent themselves as such, whose applications have not been received, or whose names" through some fault on their part have been removed from its list. Back Rests and Bed Tables, Rubber Rings, and Mattresses, Bed Pans, Night Stools, Nurses Supplies and all the latest Mechanical Comforts for Invalids for sale C. O. D. Invalid Chairs for sale or rental. EXPLANATORY A rook hook cannot l>e like an encyclopedia. If all the explana- tions necessary were given for each recipe, this work would fill volumes. All the money in the world will not bring ahout looked-for results in cooking, unless all the materials are properly prepared. All odds and ends left over from the tahle should be put carefully away, as they can be utilized in various ways. Bread Crumbs that cannot be used for toast or puddings, may be dried in the oven (not browned) rolled, sifted, and put away in a jar, and are much better than crackers, for rissoles, croquettes, oys- ters, etc. Stale bread crumbs are made by simply rubbing through the palms of the hands. To Cooks. Make use of everything. Waste nothing. Have no prejudices. Be careful, clean and j>i<,n-tn give dirert rules for roasting. I toast meats, rare - per pound, ten minutes. Roast meats, well done per pound, fifteen minutes. Lamb ami veal - - per pound, twenty minutes. Turkey ten ]>ound, three hours. ( 1 hirken - three pound, one hour. eef, half a pound of liver and any trimmings of meat you may have, a veal bone; two and one-half quarts of cold water, teaspoon of salt, six whole cloves, six black pepper corns, a bunch of sweet herbs, one inch blade of mace, a stalk of celery, one carrot, onion and turnip chopped. Soak the meat in the water one and one-half hours before heating; then add vegetables, spices and herbs; simmer seven hours and strain. AVhen needed for soup remove the fat and it will be ready for use. Soup stock keeps longer without vegetables. Never add water to soup after it begins to simmer. Consomme, or White Soup Stock. The above recipe will answer for white stock, using, instead of beef, veal or one large chicken. Clearing- for Consomme or Bouillon. Skim off all the fat. Turn the soup into the pot, being careful not to turn in the sediment, and set on the fire. Beat the white and shell of two eggs with one cup of cold water. Stir into the soup, and when it comes to a boil set back where it will come to a simmer twenty minutes. Strain through a napkin wet in ice water, and if not ready to use, put away 17 18 PROGRESSIVE COOKERY in a cool place. Ordinarily do not clear your soups, as the albumen is contained in the sediment, and is the most nourishing part of the soup. A piece of liver added to dark soups is considered by many an improvement. All milk soups and sauces should be cooked in double boiler. Royal Custard. Half a cup of consomme. Beat the yolks of the two eggs (left from cleared consomme), and one-quarter tea- spoon of salt, stir into the consomm/. Butter a cup, pour in the custard, put the cup in a deep pan, and surround with hot water- Cook on the top of stove or in the oven until firm in the center. Let the custard cool. Turn out, cut in cubes, and add to consomme after it is dished. Julienne Soup. One quart of stock, one scant pint of mixed vegetables. Cut vegetables with French cutter, and celery and onions into shreds. Cover with one pint of boiling water, when cooked add the one quart of hot stock. Season to taste. A little Worcestershire sauce may be added. Macaroni and Vermicelli Soup. One quart of stock, one cup of vermicelli, or two to three sticks of macaroni, cooked until soft in salted water. Drain and add the quart of hot stock; season to taste. Rice, Tapioca and Barley Soup. Two tablespoons of rice, tapi- oca or barley, cooked until tender, in boiling salted water, then pour on one quart of hot stock. Barley must be soaked one hour and boiled two hours or more. Rice is better with mutton or chicken stock ; season to taste. Tomato Soup. One quart of stock, one can of tomatoes ; cook the tomatoes until soft enough to strain. Strain and add to one quart of hot stock, season to taste, add one teaspoon of sugar and two tablespoons of boiled rice. I'WHiKKSSIYK COOKKKY 19 Mixed Vegetable Soup. One quart of stock. Chop one Final 1 carrot, one onion, one turnip, one parsnip, one tablespoon of parsley, one stalk of celery, one cup of strained tomatoes. Cook vegetables and tomatoes together, add a quart of hot stock. Some people prefer the onion fried, as it gives a richer flavor. Season. Split Pea Soup. One-half pint of split peas, one quart of cold water, a speck of soda, one small carrot, one small turnip, one small onion, a stalk of celery. Pick over and wash the peas, put on, with the water and soda : cook on the back of the stove one hour. Then add the vegetables, which must be cut small and previously boiled until tender in another saucepan, seasoning with one-half teaspoon of sugar, one teaspoon of salt and a speck of pepper; simmer one hour more, or until soft. Hub through a strainer. Heat again, and stir into the soup one-half tablespoon of butter mixed with one-half tablespoon of flour. Serve with fried croutons of bread, or toasted crackers. Lentil Soup. Make the same as split pea soup, using more water. This excellent vegetable is not generally known, but is much superior to beans or dried peas. Most of what we receive here comes from (ierinany. Many persons consider them more expensive than beans or peas, not knowing that they swell three or four times their size when soaked. Noodles for Soup. Break one large egg into a bowl. Beat into it one cup of flour. Work with the hands until like putty. Dredge a bread board slightly with flour. Put the noodle mixture on the board, sprinkle the rolling pin with flour, and roll as thin as possible. It should l>e so thin you can look through it. Let it dry for ten minutes, then roll it up and cut with a sharp knife into very thin slices; spread on the board and dry again for one-half hour. Cook rapidly fifteen minutes in boiling water, with one tablespoon of salt. Put half the noodles into soup. Fry the others in browned butter, and use as a vegetable. 20 PROGRESSIVE COOKERY Italian Soup. Any dark stock will answer. Cook vermicelli or spaghetti; put in hot tureen, grate on some cheese and stir. Pour over the boiling stock and serve. Ox Tail Soup. Four ox tails, one onion, two tablespoons of butter, or beef drippings, four quarts of cold water, a bouquet, four cloves, six whole peppers. Have the ox tails separated at the joints. Fry chopped onion in hot butter or drippings ; when brown put into soup kettle with bouquet, cloves, whole peppers and ox tails; pour over the four quarts of cold water, and add one tablespoon of salt, dimmer five hours. Select the nicest of joints to serve in soup; strain, put away until cold, remove fat, add the joints and heat. Put in hot tureen one tablespoon of wine and one slice of lemon. Season the soup to taste, pour into tureen and serve. Bouquet. One sprig each of thyme, sweet marjoram and summer savory, two leaves of sage, one bay leaf, tied with a sprig of parsley. Meat Glaze. Meat glaze is made by reducing to one- third )>y simmering, water that such meats as chicken, mutton, etc., have been boiled in. When properly made will keep for three or four months in a cold place. Put into air tight jars until needed. Mock Turtle Soup. One calf's head, one pound of lean beef, one carrot, one onion, one turnip, piece of celery, three eggs, one lemon, six whole peppers, six allspice, six cloves, bouquet, one table- spoon of salt. Scrape, wash and cleave the head removing the brains. Put into soup kettle with beef, spices, bouquet, etc., pour on four quarts of cold water. Chop vegetables, heat two tablespoons of butter or drippings, fry brown, add to soup. Cook head until tender and remove. Reduce stock to two quarts, strain, cool and remove fat; put stock on to boil ten minutes before serving. Brown two tablespoons of butter, stir in two tablespoons of flour, moisten with one cup of soup, stir into soup. Have two eggs boiled hard cut into dice. Make forcemeat balls of reserved brains. Have brains PROGKKSSIYK COOKERY 21 blanched l>v j touring over them boiling water, then dropping in cold water, remove veins and skin; put on in boiling salted water, cook one-half hour, chop, season with pepper, salt and a speck of cayenne, squeeze in one-half lemon and a few drops of onion juice, one table- spoon of flour, one tablespoon of melted butter; beat yolk of remain- ing egg and add to mixture; form into balls the size of a nutmeg, roll in flour, brown in hot butter. Serve two in each soup plate. Put the hard boiled eggs into the tureen with two tablespoons of sherry. Pour over the !?oup. Serve. Gumbo Soup. Brown a tablespoon of butter in a saucepan, one chopped onion, with about one tablespoon of raw ham cut into dice shape, half a green pepper cut into small dice, half a tablespoon of salt and a teaspoon of pepper. Moisten with three pints of stock, add one tablespoon of raw rice, six sliced gumbos and one sliced tomato. Let all cook thoroughly for half an hour. Puree of Green Peas, Lima Beans, Corn, Celery, etc. One quart of fresh peas, or a can of French beans or corn, one quart of boiling water, one tablespoon of butter, one quart of milk or cream. Cook until soft in the boiling water, then rub through a puree sieve, moistening occasionally with water in which they were cooked. Put into a double boiler the pint of cream or milk, add one saltspoon of white pepper and one teaspoon of salt. Heat your sauce pan, put in the butter, add a teaspoon of flour, be careful not to burn, pour in a part of milk gradually. Return to double boiler, adding sifted vegetable ; cook all together for five minutes; serve hot. If not salt the yolk of three hard-boiled eggs fine, and mix them with one-half cup of bread crumbs soaked until soft in a little milk. Chop the white meat of the chicken until fine like meal, and stir it into the _ r ir and bread paste. Add one pint of hot cream slowly, and then rub all into the hot chicken liquor. Simmer five minutes; add more salt, if needed, and if too thick add more cream, or if not thick enough more crumbs. It should be like a puree. Use the dark meat for croquettes. Mock Bisque Soup. One-half can of tomatoes, one quart of milk, one-fourth cup of butter, one tablespoon of flour, one teaspoon of salt, one-half saltspoon of white pepper. Stew the tomatoes till soft. Heat the milk in the double boiler. Heat the butter, add Hour, iln not 6rom, add enough of hot milk to make this pour eas- ily. Stir carefully into the boiling milk, cook ten minutes. Add salt and pepper to the tomatoes, also a saltspoon of soda. Strain into the milk. Serve very hot, with cheese canopees. Bisque of Crab. Meat of a small crab, one tablespoon of flour, one-quarter of a cup of butter, salt and pepper, a speck of cayenne, a few drops of onion juice, a grating of nutmeg. Chop the crab fine, season, add butter melted, and one cup of stale bread crumbs. Pour over this one quart of hot milk, stir, put in the soup kettle, cook ten minutes, xfrniii, heat again. Serve hot. It may need more seasoning. Claret Soup. Boil the claret with six whole cloves, a stick of earled tapioca. Strain claret into the stock. Season and serve. Crofiton for Soup. Cut bread in slices one-half inch thick, remove the crusts, spread with butter, cut in cubes. 1'ut in the pan. 26 PROGKKSS1YK COOKERY being careful to keep the buttered side up. Cook in the oven until golden brown. Serve hot; or heat butter in the frying pan, and fry the bread unbuttered. Baked Crackers. One-half teaspoon of butter to each whole cracker. Split round Boston crackers, spread them with a thin layer of butter. Put them buttered side up into a pan, and brown in a hot oven. Serve plain, or with soups and oyster stews. Baked Crackers with Cheese. Mix six tablespoons of grated cheese, a saltspoon of pepper, a speck of salt. Split six Boston crackers, butter them and put a teaspoon of the cheese mixture on them. Bake till crisp and brown. Cheese Canopees. Cut stale bread in slices one-half inch thick;, cut with small biscuit-cutter. Then cut the circles in half; they should be crescent shape. Spread with butter, sprinkle with pepper and Parmesan cheese. Brown in oven. Croiiton Souffle. Into half a pint of cold water stir, until smooth, one and a half cupfuls of flour, turn the same into a spider with a small cup of butter, cook and stir all the time until well done; when cooled add four beaten eggs; beat well and drop the dough in small round balls on a tin, fifteen minutes. Celery Soup. One head of celery, two cups of mashed potatoes, one onion, one quart of milk, one cup of whipped cream. Chop the best part of the celery. Put into double boiler the milk ; when hot season; add the celery potatoes and onion, cut in fine pieces. Cook forty moments, rub through a sieve, return to double boiler; when very hot pour into heated soup tureen, stir in the whipped cream. Cardinal Soup. One pint of white broth, one pint of good milk, one onion, a bouquet, six beets, two tablespoons of butter, two of flour, one-half teaspoon of salt, one-fourth teaspoon of white pepper. Boil PROGKKSSIYK COOKER V 21 the beets till soft and strain out the juice. Put the broth and milk in double boiler, add the bouquet tied in a small piece of cheese cloth, when hot remove the bouquet. Heat the butter in hot saucepan and fry chopped onion till of a golden brown. Strain out the onion, add to the butter the flour, pour gradually over this a part of the hot milk and broth, then stir all into the double 1 toiler. Cook five minutes, strain, add the hot juice of the beets. More seasoning may be needed. Okra Gumbo. One tender five-pound chicken, one onion, one-half do/en tomatoes, one and one-half dozen okra, browned flour, two red peppers. Wash the chicken clean and cut in small pieces. Puttwo tablespoons of butter in a saucepan, have the onion sliced and sprinkled with browned flour and fry a light brown, then add the red peppers cut up fine, then sprinkle the chicken with brown flour, then add sliced tomatoes and fry altogether a light brown. Put in soup kettle; add two quarts of hot water. Then add the sliced okra. season with salt to taste, cook two hours. This soup must be thick, dark and rich. Serve with rice cooked dry. FISH To be good fish m-uxt be fresh. Select those with flesh firm, eyes clear, the fins stiff, the gills red and hard to open. The success of the French in preparing fish is owing to the extreme care which they take both in the buying and the treatment before cooking. After cleaning carefully, lemon juice is squeezed over the fish, then peppered, salted and strewed with powdered sweet herbs and let stand one hour before cooking. Lemon juice makes fish flaky. Fish a la Normandie. Take two large mackerel or sole, have them boned. Stuffing: One dessertspoon of sifted sweet herbs, one cup of crumbs, two ounces of butter, one onion or shalot, one of chopped parsley, one of mushrooms. Spread the stuffing over the fish, season, place the other fish on top, with two ounces of butter dropped in bits over it. Put in oven, bake half an hour. When baked sprinkle with bread crumbs browned in hot butter, a little lemon juice, and serve with piquante sauce. Breaded Turbans of Flounders. Fillet three flounders, season and marinate with four tablespoons of melted butter, two tablespoons of lemon juice, and one tablespoon of chopped parsley. Koll them up, skewer, then roll in bread crumbs, then in egg, then again in dry stale bread crumbs. Fry four minutes in fat hot enough to brown a bit of bread in one minute. Serve with remoullde sauce. One flounder will cut into four fillets. To vary these, enclose an oyster or mushroom. Wooden toothpicks may be used for skewer- ing. Marinate is to dip in melted butter. Use a wire basket to fry in. PROGKKSSIVK COOKERY 29 Fish en Papillate . Select six tomcods of equal size. Clean and stuff with dry stuffing. Season the outsides with salt and pepper, squeeze over it a few drops of lemon juice. Have ready six sheets of soft white paper, oiled, longer and wider than fish, put fish in center of paper. Lay on the paper one tablespoon of cooked fine herlis. lay the fish on top, spread another tablespoon of herbs and dressing on the fish, then fold the paper and turn up the edges. Serve hot in paper with Sauce Tartare. Cooked Fresh Herbs. Chop one onion, fry in two tablespoons iif 1 aitter five minutes, then add double the quantity of finely minced mushrooms and a grain of garlic, season, with one-half teaspoon of salt, one teaspoon of pepper, and tablespoon of chopped parsley. Cook ten minutes longer and then let it cool. Remove the grain of garlic. Fish Cooked with Oysters. Fillet four flounders and sprinkle >ver a few drops of lemon juice. Season with salt and pepper, let them stand awhile. Melt three tablespoons of butter and dip the fish in. Lay in the center of the fish two large oysters, or a spoon- ful of California oysters. Fold the smaller end over the larger and skewer with small skewer. Dip in egg and bread crumbs and bake or fry, whichever is preferred. If baked put pieces of butter over the top. Serve with Sauce Piquante. Fish Baked with Oil and Tomatoes. Take fish of suitable size, prepare as before directed, put in a fish dish, cover with olive oil, then spread thickly with slices of tomatoes; bake till skin cracks. Serve with any sauce preferred, garnish with slices of raw tomatoes and sliced egg and parsley. Fish Chowder. Three pounds of sliced cod or haddock, two onions, six potatoes, one-half pound of salt pork, one-half teaspoon of pepper, two teaspoons of salt, four pilot crackers, one pint of milk. Slice 30 PROGRESSIVE COOKERY potatoes, onions and pork. Fry out pork in kettle, add one-third of the sliced onion, fry brown. Have fish cut in small pieces, put a layer in the kettle, then one of onion and potato and seasoning, and so on until all is used; cover with boiling water; cook three quarters of an hour. Heat milk, thicken with two tablespoons of flour, one table- spoon of butter; when cooked pour into chowder. Cover pilot bread with cold water on dish in which chowder is to be served and set in warm place. Pour the chowder over the bread and serve. Fried Fish. Small white bate and sardines fry in a wire basket, in deep fat until brown, salt and pepper. The bones can be easily removed from sardines. Have the bones removed from smelts in market, wash and wipe dry, squeeze over a little lemon juice, dip in egg, then in bread crumbs, corn meal or flour; fry in hot salt pork or sweet oil. Stuffed Smelts. Clean and bone one-half dozen large smelts and season with salt, stuff with oyster forcemeat two-thirds full. Roll them in melted butter, then in fine bread crumbs. Bake them in a hot oven in a shallow pan for fifteen minutes, basting once with butter. Serve with mushroom sauce. Oyster Forcemeat. Chop fine one dozen large oysters, add one pint of stale bread crumbs, three tablespoons of butter, one teaspoon of salt, one-half teaspoon of cayenne, one teaspoon of minced parsley, a slight grating of nutmeg, one tablespoon of lemon juice, three tablespoons of oyster juice, yolks of two uncooked eggs. Fish a la Creme. Take any nice, firm fish from which the bones have been removed. Salt and pepper, squeeze over a little lemon juice, sprinkle with sweet herbs, let stand half an hour. Remove the stones from twelve olives; take one cup of stale bread crumbs and pour over them one tablespoon of melted butter; add the olives, season and stuff the fish, and sew. Roll up in a piece of cheese PROGRESSIVE COOKKKY 31 cloth and boil until nearly done. A fresh codfish weighing five pounds will cook in fifteen minutes. Place in a porcelain fish pan. Stir into a pint of stale bread crumbs two tablespoons of parsley and a few drops of onion juice. Cover the fish two inches deep with these crumbs, and strew thickly with bits of butter. Fill the pan two-thirds full of cream and bake in a hot oven until a golden In-own. Serve on the same dish, with a napkin rolled around it. Onion juice may be obtained by placing an onion in a lemon squeezer kept exclusively for this purpose. Shell Fish. Such shell fish as mussels, clams, oysters, etc., may be thoroughly scrubbed with a brush and put in the pot without water, with a clove of garlic and a bunch of parsley, and steamed until the shells open. Send to table in shells; eat with hot maitre d'hotel butter, or hot olive oil, seasoned, and lemon juice added. Pompano en Papillote. This delicious fish found only in Cali- fornia waters, is so rieli and tender, it needs no addition but season- ing. Cut white paper a little longer and wider than the fish. ilrease with butter, put in the fish, fold and turn over the ends. 15 roil or saute. Season, sprinkle over a few drops of vinegar, and bake ten minutes in oblong paper boxes. Fish a la Russe. Fish weighing about four pounds, four eggs, two tablespoons of cheese, little nutmeg, one tablespoon of chopped parsley and seasoning, one pint of milk, two tablespoons of Parme- san cheese, one tablespoon of butter, two large tablespoons of flour, one tablespoon of anchovy sauce, one lemon. AVash fish, season, sprinkle with powdered sweet herbs, and juice of one-half lemon, let stand one-half hour. Fold in a piece of cheese cloth, place in boil- ing salted water, let boil from ten to fifteen minutes, then take it out carefully and let it get nearly cold. Have ready two hard boiled eggs chopped fine and the parsley. Put milk in double boiler, when hot add 1 uitter and flour for white sauce, which should be quite 32 PROGRESSIVE COOKERY stiff; then add the yolks of the two remaining eggs, and the anchovy sauce and grated nutmeg. Put fish into the dish in which it is to be served, pour over it the sauce, sprinkle over the top the chopped eggs and the grated cheese, put in moderate oven and bake ten min- utes. Garnish with slices of lemon. Baked Fish. Clean, wipe and dry, rub with salt, fill with stuff- ing, sew edges together. Put narrow strips of fat salt pork over the fish and in pan under fish. Place fish upright in pan, curl by put- ting a skewer through tail, body and head, shaped like an S, tie with a string. Serve with celery or any sauce preferred. Dry Stuffing for Fish. One and one-half cups of stale bread crumbs, one-half teaspoon of salt, one-fourth teaspoon of pepper, one teaspoon each of chopped parsley, onion, cucumber pickles, olives and capers, and one tablespoon of butter. Melt the butter in a hot saucepan, fry the onions a golden brown; mix the other ingredients with the bread crumbs. Stir all together and stuff the fish. Fish Chowder. Have two pounds of any white fish cut in thin slices. Slice six potatoes and four onions. Put in a kettle six slices of salt pork, fry brown. Put in a layer of potatoes, layer of fish, layer of onions, season, and so on till all is used. Cover with boiling water; cook till potatoes are done. Add a cup of cream. Have four pilot crackers, soaked in cold water, on a hot platter; pour over the chowder, or put them round the edges of the pot while the chowder is cooking. Clam Chowder. Is made as above, using the small clams, or chopping the large ones. Salmon Pudding. Mix one can of salmon, pouring off the liquor. Add juice of half a lemon, three tablespoons of melted but- ter, salt, pepper, a speck of cayenne, one-half cup of stale bread crumbs, three beaten eggs, half cup of cream. Put in a buttered PROGRESSIVE COOKERY 33 mould, set in pan of hot water, cover; steam in oven one hour, filling with boiling water as it evaporates. Turn out; serve with any sauce preferred. Salt Fish Balls. One pint of chopped salt fish, one pint of cold chopped potatoes, one-half cup of milk, two tablespoons of butter, one-half teaspoon of white pepper, two eggs. Pick the bones from the fish, cover with boiling water, simmer one hour. If the fish is very salt pour off the first water and cover again with boiling water. (Eastern salt fish will cook much quicker than California salt fish.) Have fish and potatoes chopped fine, add the pepper and one beaten egg; heat the milk, melt the butter in it, add to the fish and pota- toes; if not soft enough add more milk. Make into small flat cakes an inch thick, beat the other egg, slightly dip the fish balls into the egg, and fry in deep fat, take out, drain on butcher's paper, send to table on hot napkin. Or fry in hot drippings or butter in a frying pan, turn and brown on both sides. Hash Salt Fish. Is prepared as above, omitting the egg. Fry two slices of salt pork in a frying pan, put in the hashed fish and potato, heat well, make into an oblong shape, brown and turn on a hot platter. Broiled Salt Fish. Pull off strips of salt fish, soak in water over night, dry in a cloth, broil. Cover with melted butter. EGGS Eggs a la Patti. Take stale bread, about half an inch thick, cut in large rounds with biscuit cutter, then cut out the center with a smaller cutter. Butter a baking-pan, lay in the rings, cover with milk or cream, let it soak until soft, pour off the milk and put a raw egg into the middle of each ring. Season ; put a teaspoon of butter on each egg. Bake in a hot oven until the whites are set. Serve on hot plates; garnish with watercress. Eggs a la Duchesse. Six eggs, four tablespoons of cheese, three tablespoons of butter, slices of thin toast. Spread butter on the dish in which they will be served, then lay in the cheese, cut thin. Sea- son, and add a little cayenne, then break the eggs in carefully, so as not to break; grate over them a little nutmeg, then two tablespoons of cheese. Bake ten minutes. Soft Boiled Eggs. Put the eggs into a saucepan ; cover with boiling water, and let them stand from six to ten minutes where the water will keep hot (180), but not boiling. If cooked in boiling water, cook from three to five minutes. Hard Boiled Eggs. Cook them forty minutes in water just bub- ling. The yolk of an egg cooked ten minutes in rapidly boiling water is tough and indigestible; cooked forty minutes it is dry, mealy and easily digested. Omelette. Two eggs, two tablespoons of milk, one saltspoon of salt, one saltspoon of pepper. Beat yolks of eggs until light colored 34 PROGRESSIVE COOKERY 35 and thick; add milk, salt and pepper. Beat the whites until stiff and dry. Cut and fold them lightly into the yolks. When the spider is hot rub it around the edge with one teaspoon of butter on a broad knife; let the butter run all over the pan and turn in the omelette quickly, and spread it evenly in the pan. Cook carefully till slightly browned underneath. Turn over. Serve quickly. French Omelette. Beat four eggs till well broken, but not light, add two tablespoons of milk, one-half teaspoon of salt. Have your pan heated, put in one tablespoon of butter. Pour in egg mixture. Shake the pan until the whole mass is as thick as soft custard. Let it rest for five seconds; roll up. Before rolling up, if you wish add a few cooked oysters, or chopped cooked ham, parsley or cheese. Egg Nests on Toast. Six eggs, six small pieces of toast, one and one-half tablespoons of butter, one half teaspoon of salt. Sep- arate the eggs-, putting the whites in a bowl, and leaving the yolks in the half shells. Set the shells in a pan of meal to keep upright. Add salt to the whites and beat until stiff. Toast bread, dip edges into hot water, butter, and pile the white on each slice. Make a depression in the center of each mound, put one-quarter teaspoon of butter in each, drop yolks in the hollows. Place in hot oven until firm and slightly brown. Stuffed Eggs. Cut off the ends of hard-boiled eggs so that they will stand; then halve them and remove the yolks carefully; mash with a fork, add salt and pepper to taste, and a few drops of olive oil to moisten, and a little chopped parsley. To the yolks of three eggs use one teaspoon of vinegar. Fill the whites of the eggs with this paste. Set in a dish and pour around them cream sauce. For picnic put the eggs together and wrap in soft paper. MEATS How to Wash Meat. Have a piece of cheese-cloth, wash the meat with it, dipping in cold water. A Bad Habit. Some people have a habit of punching their fingers into a piece of beef to see if it is tender, which is useless and very annoying to the butcher, as it spoils the appearance of the piece. Veal and pork should be eaten soon after being killed, but beef or mutton is much improved by keeping it in a cool, dry place until it " ripens." The length of time required depends on the season and the weather; in summer from a week to ten days, in a nice chest, and in winter as long, perhaps, as fourteen days. Good beef should have a dark red color when first cut, changing to a brighter red or cherry color, after a few moments exposure to the air. This is probably due to the juices coming to the surface. A bluish, or dull dark red color indicates poor beef. It should look juicy, be smooth-grained and velvety to the touch, and somewhat firm and elastic. The bones and sinews should be comparatively small. The pale, moist muscle marks the young animal; a some- what darker color, older ones. Liquids take the form of vapor at the steam or boiling point. It is incorrect to say that meat is boiling, or rice is boiling, as solids cannot boil. Boiling, therefore, is cooking in boiling liquid. Water boils when the bubbles rise to the surface, and steam is thrown off at 212. If the fire is fierce, so that these bubbles are formed and expelled rapidly, and the water boils over, the water is no hotter; it 36 PROGRESSIVE COOKERY 37 simply boils away, and has to be ofterier replenished. It is a waste of time, fuel and materials to keep water boiling at such a galloping rate. Water boils at a higher temperature when there is salt added. Fresh water boils at 212, salt water at 224. If we put salt in the water, in the lower part of a double boiler, a greater degree of heat is obtained by which to cook the articles on top. In cooking meat, fish or vegetables in water we must remember these two facts: Cold water draws out the albuminous juices; boiling water protects them. Meats are cooked in cold water to have all the nutriment in the water, such as beef tea, soups, etc., and meats are cooked in hot water to have part of the juices in the meat and part in the water, such as stews, fricasses, etc. Meats are cooked in boiling water to retain their juices. Braizing, Braizing is a form of stewing, done usually in a braiz- ing pan with coals, or any close covered granite pan will do. May be cooked in the oven or on top of stove. Roasting Meats. Meat must be wiped off with a wet cloth, then salted, peppered and dredged with flour; put into a meat pan, then in a hot oven; this will sear the outside and protect the juices. After ten minutes baste frequently; when necessary to turn, do not put a fork into the meat, as that allows the juices to escape. A little hot water may be put into the pan after half an hour to baste with. Time for roasting see rules. Gravy for Roast Meat. Remove meat, when cooked, to a hot platter; set in the oven. Pour from the pan nearly all the grease, add a little hot water, set on the stove, blend browned flour and water, stir into the gravy, and season to taste. Strain. Veal. The breast, loin and fillet (a thick piece from upper part of the leg) are the best pieces for roasting. Dredge with salt, pep- 38 PROGRESSIVE COOKERY per, and flour, put strips of fat pork over the top. and bake accor- ding to directions. Cover with paper to keep from burning. Serve with horse-radish or tomato sauce. Cold Veal. Cut cold veal into slices, arrange tastefully on a dish and make a jelly as follows: Take bones that have been removed from fillet, with any scraps of veal that may be left from roast, etc., add a bouquet, a few pepper corns, a blade of mace, a few cloves; cover with water; cook till meat is in shreds, about seven hours; strain, cool. When cold this should be a firm jelly. Garnish the cold meat with the jelly cut in fancy shapes, with French cutter and slices of lemon. How to Dress Poultry. Cut off the legs at the first joint, cut out the oil bag at the end of the tail, cut off the head, put back the skin and take out the windpipe and crop, being careful not to break it. Make an incision below the breast-bone, insert the hand and remove all the inside of the fowl. The lungs lie between the ribs. Wash the fowl inside carefully with a cloth. With a sharp knife take out all the pin-feathers and singe over burning brown paper. Cut the gizzard through the thick part and remove the inner lining without breaking. Put the liver, gizzard and heart to one side. Always wash with a cloth. If too much water is used in washing poultry it will draw out the juices, and cause it to be tough and indigestible. These directions apply to all fowl. Roast Fowl. Prepare fowl according to directions. Stuff the crop till of a good shape, put the remainder into body of fowl and sew. Have the neck cut off, but not skin, then tie the loose skin with cord, put a skewer through the fleshy part of the legs, another through the wings, bring the cord towards the back, then over the skewers, cross string, bring back to the neck, then tie it tightly. This is trussing. (If you have not skewers, use strings.) Salt, pepper and dredge the fowl with flour; melt two tablespoons of butter and pour over, putting bits of butter under each thigh ; baste PROGRKSSIVK COOKERY 39 often ; after a half hour add a little hot water to the pan. Cook in moderate oven at first and increase the heat. Gravy. Take giblets, heart and liver, put in boiling salted water, rook until tender. Remove and chop fine, add two tablespoons flour to the chopped giblets; remove fowl to hot platter set in the oven to keep hot, strain the gravy into a saucepan, add the chopped gib- lets and flour, reduce with hot water, cook five minutes. Stuffing. One pint of stale bread crumbs, moisten with one-half cup of melted butter, season highly with salt, pepper and sweet herbs; if you like, use less butter and a little sausage meat. Chestnut Stuffing. One good shalot, chopped fine, one pint or more of stale bread crumbs, one teaspoon of thyme, one teaspoon of chopped parsley, one-quarter of a pound of sausage meat, one tea- spoon of pepper, twenty-four cooked chestnuts, small, two teaspoons of chopped mushrooms. Take twelve of the chestnuts and pound well. Heat a tablespoon of butter, add shalot, sausage meat, mush- rooms, then the pounded chestnuts, season ; let it just come to a boil, add the bread, now the twelve whole chestnuts, being careful not to break. Game. Draw the wild fowl, wash quickly in cold water. Put two tablespoons of chopped onion and one cup of chopped celery (the green stalks will do), into the body of the fowl. Truss and dredge with salt, pepper and flour, roast in a hot oven, with a little water in the bottom of the pan. Baste often; cook to taste. Serve with bread sauce, currant jelly and boiled onions. Saddle of Venison, Larded. Procure a saddle of a small veni- son, weighing about five pounds, pare it neatly, remove the sinews from the surface and lard it with a larding needle as finely as pos- sible, tie it around three times. Put in a roasting pan one sliced 40 PROGRESSIVE COOKERY onion, one sliced carrot; lay in the saddle, season with salt, spread one-half ounce of butter over it, put into a brisk oven and roast forty minutes, basting frequently with its own gravy. Untie, arrange neatly on a hot dish ; pour into the pan a glass of Madeira wine and a gill of white broth ; let come to a boil on stove, skim the fat off the gravy, strain over the saddle. Serve with hot currant jelly- Venison. Select young venison. If fresh let it hang in a dry, airy place several days before using. Wipe with a wet cloth, trim neat- ly, rub juice of lemon well into it, sprinkle with salt, lay in drip- ping pan, make a paste of flour and water, spread thickly over venison, put down to roast twenty minutes to the pound, put a little water in pan % moisten paste occasionally to keep from cracking. About one-half hour before serving remove the paste and baste every few minutes with butter and hot water until it froths all over. Then remove to a hot platter. The oven at first should be of mod- erate heat, increasing the heat the last half hour. Make gravy by pouring one and one-half cups of stock into the pan, thicken with browned flour, season, add two tablespoons of currant jelly. A bouquet laid in pan while roasting is an improvement. Broiled Venison Steaks. Rub into steaks, cut from the leg, a seasoning of salt, pepper, little grated nutmeg, one tablespoon of oil ; wrap in buttered paper and broil over a quick fire. They may also be larded with salt pork, then broiled with or without being envel- oped in paper. When dished serve with a maitre-d'hotel butter. Maitre-d' hotel Butter. One-quarter cup of butter, one-half tea- spoon of salt, one-half saltspoon of pepper, one tablespoon of chopped parsley, one tablespoon of lemon juice. Rub the butter to a cream, add salt, pepper, parsley and lemon juice. Spread on hot steaks, etc. Broiling: Broil over clear coals. Heat your broiler, put on meat PROGRESSIVE COOKERY 41 or fowl, turn quickly to prevent escape of juices. Meat should be broiled long enough to start the flow of the juices ; the meat will spring up instantly when pressed with a knife; when it ceases to do so the juices begin to evaporate and the meat shrinks. \Vhen cooked according to taste, remove to hot platter, sprinkle on both sides with pepper, salt and bits of butter. Sauteing or Pan-frying. Have pan sissing hot, grease with a little suet. Put on your meat, turn in one minute, sear the other side. Cook rare or well done as preferred ; salt, pepper and butter when taken up. Serve very hot. Beef Tea. Cut lean, juicy, raw beef into quarter-inch dice. Cover with cold water; add one-half teaspoon of salt to every cup of water. Press the meat often, and after an hour squeeze out all the juice. Heat the juice; stir it constantly, and serve as soon as it looks thick and is hot. Broiling in Paper. Take trimmed mutton chops and lay on doubled firm white paper, and cut the shape of the chops, allowing one inch for a margin. Open the paper, oil or grease them, place a chop inside each paper, salt and pepper them, fold over the edge. Broil, turning quickly and often, four or five minutes. Serve in the papers. Mutton Chops or Veal Cutlets Breaded. Trim, and season with salt and pepper. Dip in crumbs, egg and crumbs again. Put butter in a hot frying-pan; put in the chops, turn quickly, and brown on both sides, then cook as preferred. Wind paper ruffles around the bones. Serve with tomato sauce. Fillet of Mutton Chops. Cut the meat from the bone, flatten the chops, sprinkle with salt and pepper; melt a tablespoon of butter, add to it a few drops of lemon juice, dip in the chops, roll up and 42 PROGRESSIVE COOKERY skewer with tooth-picks; dip in bread crumbs, egg and bread crumbs again. Fry in boiling lard about four minutes. Serve with any sauce preferred. Boiled Leg of Mutton. Put into boiling salted water, enough to'nearly cover, with thickest part down; keep at boiling point ten minutes, then simmer. A small leg of mutton will cook rare in from one and a half to two hours; well done in three hours. Serve with caper sauce. Boiled Chicken. Stuff with oysters. Cook the same as boiled mutton. Boiled Leg of Mutton a la Francaise. Have the marrow removed from the bone of a leg of mutton. Put into the cavity a few cloves and garlic. Let stand for a week or so. Remove the garlic and boil as before directed. Boiled Ham. If very salt, soak overnight ; otherwise, soak two hours in cold water. Scrub well, trim off the black part, cover with boiling water. Simmer, allowing one-half hour for every pound. If ham is allowed to boil it hardens it. When cooked leave in the water till nearly cold; then remove, pull off the skin, put into the oven for one hour, baste often with vinegar. Remove from oven. Cover with sugar and dried bread crumbs, return to the oven, and when a golden brown, dish. Or stick cloves into the ham in fancy shapes, then wet your finger, and deep into red pepper and make a round spot, and alternate with black pepper. If sent to the table hot, serve with brown sauce, flavored with one-half glass of cham- pagne, or currant jelly, or juice of one-half lemon. A very nice way is to cook a ham a little longer, and remove the bone carefully. For those who care for it, add a bottle of white wine or champagne while simmering. PROGRESSIVE COOKERY 43 Corned Beef. Cover with boiling water, simmer, allowing one- half hour to the pound; as scum rises, remove. If to be eaten cold add a few whole spices to the water while cooking. If a rib piece when the bones loosen, remove from the pot, take out the bones, cover and press with a weight. Boiled Chicken. Clean, stuff a chicken. Put in boiling water a teaspoon of salt, one-half a carrot, one onion, two stalks of celery, six pepper corns, a bay leaf, sprig of thyme and parsley, salt; add the chicken, simmer one hour or till tender. Serve with any sauce preferred. Hash a la Francaise. Have cooked beef chopped rather fine. Put a piece of butter, the size of an egg, in hot stew pan (this is for one pint of chopped meat); add two chopped onions; when cooked add one tablespoon of flour, one-half glass of white wine, a cup of broth, a little table sauce, tomato or Worcestershire, salt and pepper, a grating of nutmeg; add the chopped meat, leave in fifteen min- utes to heat, but do not boil. Dish it, pour on a few drops of lemon juice or vinegar and serve. Garnish with points of toast. Veal cut in slices cooked by foregoing recipe is very nice. Hash. One cup of cooked meat chopped fine, two cups of hot mashed potatoes, one-half teaspoon of salt, one-half saltspoon of pepper. Mix until smooth. Put two or three tablespoons of hot water into a spider. Melt one tablespoon of butter or drippings. Put in the hash and let it simmer slowly until the water is absorbed ami a brown crust is formed. Do not stir. Fold over, turn on a hot platter. Hashed Corned Beef. To one pint of chopped meat add one pint of cold chopped potatoes, a saltspoon of mustard, one tea- spoon of white pepper. Have in frying pan a tablespoon of hot drippings, put in the hash, add two tablespoons of hot water, a table- 44 PROGRESSIVE COOKERY spoon of butter. More water may be added if needed, but not too much. Stir and heat well, form an oblong shape, brown on one side, run a knife under it to keep it from sticking to frying pan. Turn on a hot platter. If hashes are put in covered dishes it steams them and makes them soggy. If you have any vegetables left from a corned beef dinner chop them together, warm the same way as the corned beef hash, omitting the water, as the vegetables are generally moist enough. Drippings. Save any pieces of fat (except mutton fat) , cut into one-half inch cubes, put in a pan, in the oven, and cook slowly, until the scraps are a light brown. When slightly cooled strain and set it away. Always clarify and strain fat after being used for frying. Minced Meat on Toast. Remove the fat and gristle from the veal and chop fine. To one cup of meat add one saltspoon of salt, a speck of pepper, one-half cup of thickened gravy. Heat in saucepan and pour over buttered toast. Serve hot. Cottage Pie. Chop cold meat very fine. Mash some potatoes. To every cup of meat add one saltspoon of salt, one-half saltspoon of pepper, a speck of nutmeg, one-half cup of gravy or stock, and a little finely chopped onion. Put the meat, when seasoned, in a baking dish, cover it with mashed potatoes, and bake a golden brown. Scalloped Mutton. Cut cold mutton into thin slices, removing all the fat and gristle. Put a layer of bread crumbs on the bot- tom of a shallow baking dish, then a layer of mutton, then a layer of cooked macaroni, then gravy. Moisten one-third of a cup of crumbs in one tablespoon of melted butter, spread over the top, bake until a nice brown. Season each layer with salt and pepper. Brown Beef Stew. Order skirt of beef a few days before needed ; the skirt is tender and juicy; remove skin, and cut in slices. Heat PROGRESSIVE COOKERY 45 one tablespoon of butter in a saucepan, add one chopped onion, one slice of carrot, one of turnip, few cloves and bouquet; add sliced meat and fry brown. Then add hot water, cook until tender, be careful not to cook too long, so as to retain the juices, season with salt and pepper, remove meat, strain gravy, return to fire and boil up. Brown one tablespoon of butter or drippings, add two table- spoons of browned flour, one tablespoon of sherry wine, one table- spoon of tomato catsup, a few drops of lemon juice. Put back meat, heat thoroughly; serve with macaroni, or dumplings, heaped around the edge of deep platter. Hamburg Steak. Two pounds of chopped beef or Hamburg steak, one-half cup of bread crumbs, one cup of milk, two eggs, two teaspoons of salt, one teaspoon of pepper, three slices of salt pork. Season the meat, then add the milk, beaten eggs, nearly all the bread crumbs, put into a buttered dish, shape and sprinkle with the crumbs, and lay on the slices of pork. Cover the dish and bake ten minutes; then remove the cover and bake fifteen minutes longer. Fried Liver. Have calf's liver sliced thin. Trim the tough skin from the edges. Soak in cold water five minutes, and wipe. Fry out salt pork, put in the slices of liver, salt and pepper and sprinkle with powdered sage. Cook three minutes and turn. Season as before. Turn often, cook from seven to ten minutes. Put into a hot dish and spread with butter. Broiled Liver. Prepare the liver as above, and broil. Liver au Lit. Clean the livers from two or three fowls and cut into several pieces; or you may use calf's liver cut into small slices. Put a layer of tomatoes in a dish, then the liver, then sliced onion, and tomatoes on the top. Season each layer with salt and pepper. Cover and bake slowly for about half an hour. Dumplings for Stews. Make dumplings for stews the same as baking powder biscuit, only a little softer. Drop from a wet table- spoon into the stew; boil twenty minutes. SAUCES Bechamel, or White Sauce. One cup of cream, one cup of white stock or one pint of cream, two tablespoons of butter, two heaping tablespoons of flour, season to taste. Heat cream over hot water. Put butter in hot granite saucepan, stir till it melts or bubbles, add dry flour, stir quickly with the ball of a spoon until well mixed, pour over a part of the cream, stir till it thickens, add the remaining stock or cream, put back into double boiler and cook five minutes. Should be smooth, if not, strain. This way of cooking butter gives a much better flavor than blending the flour and but- ter. If you cannot get cream use milk and an extra tablespoon of butter. If too thick add more stock or cream, if too thin, more flour. Drawn Butter (Plain.) Is made the same as cream sauce, using hot water instead of cream, and four tablespoons of butter. Richer drawn butter may be made by adding the yolks of two eggs. Hollandaise Sauce. May be made of milk, or cream, or stock, one-half cup of butter, yolks of three eggs, juice of one-half lemon, salt, a speck of cayenne, one cup of boiling stock, cream or milk. Rub butter to a cream, add yolks, then lemon juice and seasoning. Beat well about five minutes, add boiling liquid, beat rapidly and serve. Should be as thick as custard. Hollandaise Sauce. Melt over hot water a half cup of butter, add the beaten yolks of five eggs, beat well till thick. Season 46 PROGRESSIVE COOKERY 47 with salt and cayenne and stir in gradually two tablespoons of lemon juice and one-half cup of boiling water. If the butter more than melts it will curdle. Egg Sauce. Make cream or milk or drawn butter sauce, and add three hard boiled eggs chopped. Cream Mushroom Sauce. Make a cream sauce. Take one tablespoon of the butter, add one cup of chopped mushrooms, cook ten minutes or till soft. Add to the cream or milk sauce. Oyster Sauce. Heat one pint of fresh oysters to the boiling point in their own liquor. Remove from fire, drain liquor into another pan. Beat to a cream one-third cup of butter, three table- spoons of flour, add to oyster juice one cup of milk, heat to boiling, stir in flour and butter. Cook fifteen minutes, season and add oysters, then one teaspoon of lemon juice. For boiled fish, turkey or chicken. Celery Sauce (for Boiled Fowl.) Cook one cup of white part of celery, cut fine, in enough water to cover; cook until tender, drain off water; if not one pint add water enough to make that quantity. Melt two tablespoons of butter, add two of flour, and stir in the hot liquor, cook, and add the cooked celery. Season. Sauce Robert. To one cup of brown sauce add one teaspoon of sugar, one of mustard, one of vinegar. Tomato Sauce. Melt one tablespoon of t butter, fry in it one tablespoon of chopped onion till yellow, add one tablespoon of flour, pour gradually over one cup of hot stock, add one-half cup of cooked strained tomato. Season. Brown Mushroom Sauce. To one cup of brown sauce add one cup of chopped mushrooms, first cooked in one tablespoon of butter. 48 PROGRESSIVE COOKERY Currant Jelly Sauce. Make brown sauce, add two-thirds of a cup of currant jelly. When melted, strain. Serve very hot. Madeira or Port Wine Sauce. One-half cup of port, one glass of melted currant jelly, one tablespoon of lemon juice, one pint of stock, two tablespoons of butter or drippings. Cook same as for brown sauce. Spanish Sauce. One pint of consomme, three tablespoons of gelatine, four of flour, four of butter, two of chopped onion, carrot and celery, lean ham, bay leaf, sprig of parsley, three cloves, bit of mace, salt and pepper. Soak gelatine in one-half cup of consomme until soft, cook butter and vegetables, pour together, don't burn, add flour, brown, stirring all the while, add the consomme, spices and herbs, stand back and simmer half an hour; add the soaked gelatine, cook again; strain. (If fat arises, skim off.) Serve with chops. Bread Sauce for Game. One cup of stale bread crumbs. Put in double boiler, with a large slice of onion, one teaspoon of salt, one- half of pepper, one pint of stock. Cook half an hour, take out onion, add one tablespoon of butter. Cook half an hour and serve. Have ready some coarse bread crumbs fried brown in hot butter. Spread on hot platter, lay on the game and sprinkle with more fried, crumbs. Piquante Sauce. Is made the same as a brown or white sauce, adding a teaspoon each of chopped olives, pickles and capers. A larger quantity may be used if desired. Anchovy and Shrimp Sauce. Make a cream or white sauce, color pink with anchovy sauce, and add one cup of shrimps. Let the shrimps stand in the hot sauce about five minutes to heat through. PROGRESSIVE COOKKRY 49 Brown Sauce. One pint of dark stock, two tablespoons of butter two heaping tablespoons of browned flour. Put the stock in a double boiler, season with salt and pepper. Put the butter into a rol taste, and half a cup of cream. Beat together the yolks of four ggs and half a cup of cold cream. Stir this mixture into the sauce, heat to the boiling point, cook two minutes longer, stirring all the time. Do not let it boil, or it will curdle. Spanish Sauce. One pint and one gill of consomme, three table- spoons of gelatine, four of flour, four of butter, two of chopped onion, one of chopped carrot, one of chopped celery, one ounce of lean ham, one bay leaf, one sprig of parsley, two cloves, a bit of mace, salt and pepper. Soak the gelatine in one gill of consomme for an hour or more. Cook the butter and vegetables together for ten minutes, being careful not to let them burn, add the flour, and cook until brown, stirring all the while. Draw the saucepan back, and gradu- ally add the pint of consomme. Boil for three minutes, stirring all the while. Then add the herbs and spice, and let it stand where it will simmer for two minutes. Add the soaked gelatine, and cook five minutes longer. Skim the fat from the sauce, and strain. Bernaise Sauce. Put into a hot cup four tablespoons of butter, 50 PROGRESSIVE COOKERY and stir until soft and creamy. Put the yolks of four eggs, one-half teaspoon of salt and one-fifth teaspoon of pepper into a small granite saucepan, and beat with a Dover beater until the eggs are light, then add the butter in three parts, beating each time until the mixture is smooth. Add one tablespoon of tarragon vinegar and beat again. Place the saucepan in another of boiling water, and cook for three minutes, beating constantly with an egg beater. Take from the fire, and add one teaspoon of chopped parsley and tarragon and one teaspoon of onion juice. The sauce must be used as soon a finished. This sauce should be garnished with potato croquettes. SAUCES WITH OILS Sauce Tartare. Put into a mortar one tablespoon of butter and one teaspoon of chopped parsley. Pound to a smooth paste, and rub through a small strainer. Then pound two tablespoons of capers and two tablespoons of chopped cucumber pickles to a paste, and rub through a strainer on to the parsley and butter. Keep this mixture cool. Put in a bowl the yolks of two eggs uncooked, one teaspoon of mustard, one-half teaspoon of sugar, one teaspoon of salt, a little cayenne. Beat until thick and ropy (from 3 to 5 minutes), add oil, a few drops at a time, until so thick that the beater turns with difficulty, then add a tablespoon at a time until a gill and a half has been used. When the mixture is thick begin to add vinegar (alternating with oil), a teaspoon at a time, until two tablespoons have been used, then add one teaspoon of onion juice and the strained mixture. This sauce must be thick and smooth. To insure this add oil very slowly at first. French Dressing. One tablespoon of vinegar, three tablespoons of oil, one saltspoon of pepper, one of salt. Mix well, take a small slice of bread, rub slightly with garlic, set in salad with which this dressing is to be served for an hour. Remove the bread, pour on the dressing. Garnish with beets or olives. Remoullde Sauce. One pint of oil, one tablespoon each of plain and tarragon vinegar. Work the yolks of two hard boiled eggs until smooth, then the yolk of one raw egg, one teaspoon of mustard, and beat with the Dover beater five minutes. Add the oil 51 52 PROGRESSIVE COOKERY one teaspoon at a time, beating three minutes between each spoon- ful. After adding five teaspoons in this manner, put in two or three at a time, and the vinegar as it thickens. When done add one-half teaspoon of salt, one-third teaspoon of white pepper, and one tea- spoon of chopped parsley. It should be very thick. Green Salad Dressing". Pound in a mortar a handful of thoroughly washed and wiped parsley, one bunch of chervil, one of chives, one small onion, one anchovy, a tablespoon of capers or olives. Take quarter of a cup of bread that has been thoroughly soaked squeezed dry pound to a paste and rub through a fine sieve. The bread must not be moist. Beat in well the yoke of one egg, then add slowly one-half cup of olive oil. If not green, color with extract of spinach. This is very nice with fish. Sauce et Garniture. Beat the yolk of one egg into a bowl, add one-half teaspoonful of mustard, mix well with a fork. Add slowly one cup of olive oil, then season with salt and pepper to taste. This mixture should be thick; then add two tablespoonfuls of vinegar. Chop fine one tablespoonful of cucumber pickles, one tablespoonful of capers, one tablespoonful of chives, one tablespoonful of tarragon and add to the sauce. Mayonnaise Dressing". One-half teaspoon of dry mustard, yolk of one egg, one pint of olive oil. Beat egg and mustard smooth, pour in a steady stream a tablespoon of oil at a time, beating con- stantly; beat three minutes between each spoonful, till one-half of oil is used. This should be very thick ; now add teaspoon of vinegar, one teaspoon of salt, a speck of cayenne, a few drops of onion juice, if liked; add gradually remainder of oil, then vinegar to taste; more salt may be needed. Time for making fifteen minutes. During hot weather in making oil dressings place dish in ice water. It is a very easy matter to keep a salad dressing on hand and it makes very many " cold bites " delicious, if retained in an agate vessel. !'IM,KKSSIYK COOKERY 53 Boiled Dressing: Put one pint of vinegar and two teaspoons of salt on the stove to heat. Mix together one tablespoon of butter, two of dry mustard, and two of white sugar; add six tablespoons of cream and six eggs. When this is all well beaten, pour on the hot vinegar slowly and carefully, beating all the time. Then put it all on the stove and let it boil until it thickens like boiled custard. Thin it afterwards with more cream if you wish. Pour it into a bowl to cool and do not leave a spoon in it. Keep in a glass jar. 54 PROGRESSIVE COOKERY ENTREES Cheese Fondu. One cup stale bread crumbs, one egg, one cup of milk, butter size of an egg, one cup of grated cheese. Season the bread crumbs with one-quarter teaspoon of salt, same of pepper, one speck of cayenne, one saltspoon of mustard, then add melted but- ter, cheese, beaten egg and milk. Bake twenty minutes in small pudding dish -or in small dishes ten minutes. Serve immediately. Rice Croquettes. One cup of cold boiled rice, warmed in double boiler, with one teaspoon of milk or cream, one tablespoon of butter, one egg, one-half teaspoon of salt, one-quarter teaspoon of white pepper, a little cayenne, one tablespoon of grated cheese. Cool, shape, roll in bread crumbs, dip in egg, roll again in bread crumbs. Fry in hot fat till brown. Chicken Croquettes. Chop cooked chicken rather fine, use one- half pint of canned or fresh mushrooms, one-third cup of cream, three tablespoons of butter, two of flour, one tablespoon of lemon juice, one teaspoon of onion juice, yolks of two eggs. Put the cream into a stewpan and let it heat slowly. Beat the flour and butter together, add the cream when it boils. Stir until smooth, then add the chopped chicken, to which has been added the onion, lemon juice and season, mushrooms (first cooking mushrooms half an hour in a tablespoon of the butter), stir well; now add the two well- beaten yolks, cook two minutes. Pour this on a platter, let it cool, shape into croquettes, roll in dry bread crumbs, then in egg and again in crumbs. Fry in a basket in deep fat three minutes. Take up, drain on butcher paper. PROGRESSIVE COOKKKY )) Lobster Cutlets. One pint of lobster meat, or crawfish, chopped rather fine, one-half pint of cream or chicken broth, a tablespoon of Hour, three tablespoons of butter, one tablespoon of lemon juice, one quarter teaspoon of white pepper, a speck of cayenne, one level teaspoon of salt, four eggs. Mix salt and pepper with chopped fish. Put tlif cream or stock on to heat. Mix the flour and butter and stir into the hot cream, cook one minute, stirring all the time. Add the fish; stir well and cook for three minutes. Then add two eggs, \\ell beaten, stir quickly and take from the fire instantly; stir in the lemon juice, and spread the mixture on a platter to cool. When cold form in cutlet shape, then cover with l>eaten egg and crumbs. Stick one of the small claws into the small end of each cutlet. Fry two minutes, and drain, Serve with tartare sauce. Cutlets a In Maintenon. For six mutton cutlets use four table- spoons of chopped mushrooms, one of chopped onion, one generous tablespoon of butter, one of flour, three of stock, one teaspoon of minced parsley, one of salt, one-fourth teaspoon of pepper, three gills of Spanish sauce. Cook the butter and onion together for five min- utes: then add the mushrooms and seasoning and cook five minutes lontfrr. Add the flour and stir well; then add the stock and cook three minutes longer. Let the mixture cool. Have the cutlets cut from the ribs, one inch and a half thick. Trim as for French chops, with a sharp knife. Split the chops in two without separating them at the bone. Spread the cooked mixture inside, and press lightly together. Broil for eight minutes over clear coals. Serve very hot with Spanish sauce. Sweetbreads. When a plump, healthy calf is slaughtered which has l>een fed on the milk of the mother cow, there are found in the lower throat and near the heart two small lumps of flesh, weighing perhaps half a pound, termed " sweetbreads/' These, when properly rooked, are about the most delectable and nutritious morsels known to mankind in the line of animal food. They are the pancreatic 56 PROGRESSIVE COOKERY glands, and their function in the animal economy is to assimilate the oily portions of the food. In the milk calf, therefore, the sweet- hread may be almost said to be composed of assimilated cream. In the older animal, or when the calf is turned out to grass, these glands either shrink away or become tough, so that they are no longer the same dainty article. Care must be taken in preparing. Larded Sweetbreads. Blanch the sweetbreads in cold water. remove the veins and skin. Then put in cold water again with one tablespoon of vinegar or lemon juice, and let them remain half an hour. Remove from the water, dry on a cloth, sprinkle with salt and white pepper. Lard them with very narrow strips of salt pork with a larding needle; or lay narrow strips of salt pork or bacon over, the top. Bake fifteen minutes. Serve very hot with brown sauce. Beefsteak and Sweetbreads. Prepare and cut sweetbreads in slices and broil and serve with broiled beefsteak. Sweetbreads a la Marengo. Put sweetbreads into cold water, remove brains, then squeeze over them a little lemon juice. Put them in boiling water; cook twenty minutes. Take them out and throw them into cold water to harden. Cut in small pieces. Put into the double boiler one cup of cream, salt, pepper and grating of nutmeg. Have a few tomatoes cooking. Take one tablespoon of butter, melt as before directed. Add a tablespoon of flour, then a little cream, and strain some of the tomatoes into this mixture, so as to make a light pink. Add the sweetbreads. Ornament with shredded olives. Brown Gravy and Sweetbreads. Prepare sweetbreads the same as for Sweetbreads a la Creme. If you have dark stock use that, but if not, prepare as follows: Two pounds of lean beef cut in small pieces and put into a crock in a slow oven, with a little salt and one tablespoon of cold water ; cook one hour, take out, add one-half cup PROGRESSIVE COOKERY 57 of boiling water, strain into double boiler. Roux: Take one table- spoon of butter in cold pan, let it get brown but not burnt, add two tablespoons of browned flour, a few drops of onion and lemon juice, a little tomato catsup and Worcestershire sauce; season. Pour some of the gravy over this, then put all into the gravy and cook five minutes. Serve hot, with toasted bread. Have the sweetbreads browned and add to the gravy. Add a half cup of sherry or brandy if liked. Brains. Brains can be cooked by any recipe for sweetbreads. They require but ten minutes to boil. Lobster a la Ne\vburg. Divide one medium size lobster or craw- fish in half, remove the coral and creamy green fat and put one side. Cut the meat into small pieces, put into a saucepan four tablespoons of butter; when it creams add a half cup of Madeira or sherry, reduce to one-half. Put a cup of cream in a double boiler; when hot season with salt and cayenne pepper. Pour this gradually over the butter mixture and return to double boiler. Pound to a paste the coral and fat and stir into the sauce, add the yolks of three well-beaten egrs, add the lobster; heat through and serve. Pigeon or Quail au Deliee. Take a quarter of a pound of bacon, cut up in small pieces; one-half pound of veal liver cut in small pieces. Fry the bacon, add the liver, add a clove of garlic, a chalot, a bay leaf, half a chopped carrot, some of turnip, salt and pepper; stew till cooked. Pound all together with a few mushrooms. Pass through a wire sieve. Stuff two birds with this forcemeat. Put pieces of butter or lard on the breast and bake from eight to ten minutes, basting often. Add a cup of stock to the baking pan; thicken; put in two tablespoons of currant jelly. Season and serve. Aspee of Fillets of Chicken. Take a mold, set on ice and water. and fill to the depth of quarter of an inch with dissolved aspic jelly. 58 PROGRESSIVE COOKERY When this is set cut in fancy shapes with French cutters hard-boiled eggs, truffles, pickles and cooked beet. Arrange them in patterns and carefully put another layer of jelly. Arrange fillets of chicken that have been cooked and cut in nice shapes, neatly all round; pour over more jelly, then pour over a thick mayonnaise. Fill up the mould; put away in ice chest to harden. Aspic Jelly. Reduce one quart of white or dark consomme to two-thirds of a quart. Pour some in a mould about one-quarter of an inch in depth ; place on ice and water until it jellies ; lay on some of the following cooked meats, free from bones (not allowing the pieces to touch the sides of the mould): chicken, game, tongue, or either of them. Cover with the remainder of consomme, so as to have the same thickness at the top as at the bottom. Place in a refrigerator until it jellies; then dip mold in warm water, turn on a dish. (Cold entree.) OYSTERS To prepare oysters for cooking pour over oysters water and take out one at a time, remove any bits of shell. Serious accidents have resulted from the presence of pieces of shells. Oyster juice is seldom used in cooking. Baked Oysters. Wash two dozen large oysters ; put them in bak- ing pan in the oven; bake till they open, keep in the shells. Add to the juice a little cayenne, lemon juice and butter. Serve very hot the oysters and sauce. Oysters a la Poulette. Put two tablespoons of butter in a hot saucepan; when hot add two tablespoons of chopped onion, one of carrot and parsley, bay leaf, sprig of thyme; simmer for ten minutes, add two tablespoons of flour; have one cup of light-colored PROOKKSS1YK COOKKKY ">'.) stock liot, pour gradually over, strain into double boiler. Season; add one cup of hot cream, stir well, when thick, add one pint of oysters, strain, squeeze over lemon juice, cook till plump and add to the sauce. Oyster en Coquille. Choose six large oysters; drain. Wash oyster shells. Now marinate the oysters with melted butter, chopped parsley, pepper and salt. Fill the shells, and cover with stale bread crumbs. Put bits of butter on top and brown in very hot oven, then put on each shell one slice of lemon. Fried Oysters. Drain the oysters, season them with salt and pepper, roll them in a few fine bread crumbs (one by one), dip each one in egg, roll again in crumbs. Let stand one hour. Boil in hot fat one minute. Serve in a hot napkin. Fancy Roast. Put one tablespoon of butter in a saucepan, add one-half saltspoon of white pepper, one teaspoon of salt, a few grains of cayenne and a tablespoon of tomato catsup. When hot add one pint of oysters and cook until plump and the edges curl. Serve on toast. Oysters en Beurre Noir. One pint of oysters, two tablespoons of butter, two of vinegar, a speck of cayenne pepper. Put butter in a rnlil saucepan and brown, l>e careful not to burn. Strain the oysters, cook until plump and the leaves curl, sprinkle with one-half teaspoon of salt, add to the brown butter into which the vinegar and pepper have l>een added. Fill Dresden fritters and serve hot. Oysters and Bacon. Wrap each oyster in a very thin piece of salt pork or bacon, and fasten with a wooden toothpick. Fry in a hot frying-pan until plump and the edges curl. If oysters are allowed to cook too long, and lose their plumpness, they become hard and indigestible. 60 PROGRESSIVE COOKERY Curried Oysters. Cook oysters until plump, or until the edges curl. Cook two tablespoons of chopped onion in one tablespoon of butter five minutes. Be careful not to burn. Mix one tablespoon of curry powder with two tablespoons of flour, and stir into the butter; add one pint of hot milk gradually, and stir as directed for white sauce. Add the oysters. Kidney Stew with Sweetbreads. One beef kidney, one onion, two tomatoes, a bouquet seasoning, one set of sweetbreads. Wash and then cut the kidney in small pieces, chop and fry the onion in two tablespoonfuls of butter till brown, then add the pieces of kidney and fry till slightly brown. Put this into a saucepan and cover with boiling water, simmer four hours or till tender. While cooking put in the bouquet tied in cheese cloth. If you like spices add to bouquet four cloves, s"ame of allspice, a blade of mace. In half an hour remove the bouquet, add sliced tomatoes. Season to taste. Clean sweetbreads, cook as directed; when cold cut them in small pieces, fry brown in butter, season and add to kidney stew with one finely chopped green pepper. One-half hour before serving ornament with French potatoes. Calves' brains may be substituted for sweetbreads. Sweetbreads may be omitted. If desired, just before serving add a small glass of champagne or white wine sweetened. Croustades of Rice. Wash two cups of rice, pour over the rice six cups of boiling broth, cook till tender, or about one-half hour, season with one-half teaspoon of salt, a speck of cayenne, a table- spoon of butter and a tablespoon of grated cheese, one-fourth of a grated nutmeg. Spread in a buttered pan that is, one inch thick cover with greased paper, leave to cool with a weight on top. Cut in rounds with a large biscuit cutter, with a smaller cutter make a round in the center like patties (dip the cutter each time in warm water). Dip croustades in egg, then in bread crumbs; fry in deep fat five minutes; remove the center round, scoop out the center and fill with oysters a la poulette or anything preferred. Cover with the center round. PROGRESSIVE COOKERY 61 Baked Bell Peppers. Select bell peppers of uniform size, cut off the top, remove the seeds and stuff with oyster forcemeat, bake in a buttered pan one-half hour. Peppers a la Espagnol. Select bell peppers of uniform size, put them into boiling water, let stand for a while, when you can readily remove the skin. When cool cut off the large end, remove the center, fill with any entree preferred, and bake twenty minutes, basting frequently with melted butter. Serve with Spanish Sauce. After filling the peppers put on the covers again and sew them down. Poached Eggs and Mushrooms. Peel enough mushrooms to fill two cujis. after they are broken in small pieces, sprinkle over them a little salt and let them stand a few moments, this will remove any small bugs; put in a strainer and pour over a little water, shake well and put in a saucepan with a tablespoon of butter, cook slowly fifteen minutes or till soft. Poach six eggs, by dropping carefully into boiling salted water, remove with a skimmer and arrange round the edge of a platter and pile the mushrooms in the center. Croustades of Asparagus. Cut off the tops of rolls or biscuit. Scrape out the inside, set with the tops into the oven to crisp. Make a white sauce; put in the tops of two bunches of cooked asparagus. Fill the rolls with this; cover. Serve. Macaroni, Italian Style. Put into a saucepan one large spoonful of lard; when melted put in two pounds of beef (a piece of the round); when fried brown on one side, turn, and fry the same on the other. Put in one sliced onion, pepper, salt and other spices to suit. When this has cooked for about one-half hour put in one- quarter of a can of tomatoes, or an equal quantity of fresh; improved by adding Italian dried mushrooms. Boil slowly (if necessary add boiling water, or .broth sufficient to make about a pint of gravy) ; cook about two hours in all. Take one pound of Royal macaroni, 62 PROGRESSIVE COOKERY or spaghetti, and put into a large kettle full of boiling water; cook for twenty minutes, seasoning with salt. Strain well when done. Spread the macaroni or spaghetti on a platter; pour over it the stew, and sprinkle with cheese, serve hot. Macaroni and Tomatoes. Cook one quart of tomatoes until quite dry. Cook macaroni until soft in salted water, drain it, grate one cup of cheese, melt two tablespoons of butter in a hot stew pan, add the grated cheese, and stir until ropy. Turn into the cooked tomatoes, season with a saltspoon of cayenne and add white pepper. Put the macaroni around a hot platter, pour tomatoes into the center. Serve very hot and quickly. Any food cooked with cheese must be served as soon as cooked. Macaroni. One-half cup of macaroni after being broken into inch pieces. Cook in boiling salted water twenty minutes or till soft. Drain; pour cold water over it, and serve with hot white sauce, or tomato sauce. Baked Macaroni. Boil one pound of best macaroni or spaghetti, as stated, put in a bake pan, mix with some melted butter and grated cheese, sprinkle the top with cheese grated, add one cup of milk, bake until the top is brown. Notice Care should always be taken that the water in which the macaroni or spaghetti is cooked be boiling before the same is put in. Timballs of Salmon. One pound of salmon. Remove the skin, take out the bones, chop, and pound in a mortar with a cjove of garlic, a saltspoon of mustard, a speck of red pepper, saltspoon of white pepper, six canned mushrooms chopped fine. Press all through a wire sieve; add a cup of cream; if not add more season- ing if needed. Beat the whites stiff; add gradually to timbal mix- ture. Butter timbal moulds well and fill; cover with greased paper, put into the oven in a pan with hot water, cook fifteen min- utes, turn out and eerve with Hollandaise sauce. PROGRESSIVE COOKERY 63 Timhalls of Chicken. Chop a chicken breast, pound in a mortar; add the same quantity of bread soaked, squeezed; season with teaspoon of salt, one-half of pepper, saltspoon of nutmeg; press through a sieve, add the yolks of two well-beaten eggs. Grease six timbal moulds, sprinkle with stale bread crumbs, fill, cook as above directed. Serve with Madeira sauce. Fillet of Chicken. A chicken breast has four fillets. Dip the fillets in two tablespoons of melted butter with a teaspoon of chopped parsley, season with salt and pepper. Roll in dried bread crumbs, then in egg. then in crumbs; fry in deep fat five minutes. Take up on butcher paper; serve with currant jelly. Gnllatin of Chicken. One-half pound of lean veal, one-half pound of sausage meat, one quart of bread crumbs, a bunch of pars- ley: season with a teaspoon of salt and half a teaspoon of pepper and a little grated nutmeg, one shalot or small onion, one-fourth pound of bacon. Remove all the bones from an uncooked chicken, spread out the meat and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Pound the uncooked veal in a mortar, with the parsley and half a teaspoon of powdered tliynie. and a grated shalot. When thoroughly pounded put into a bowl, add the sausage meat, bread crumbs, two eggs and a grating of nutmeg, the salt and pepper. Place the forcemeat over the chicken, lay over the forcemeat one-fourth of a pound of bacon, cut in thin slices. Add ten sliced mushrooms and four sliced hard- boiled eggs. Spread the gallatin in a cloth, roll tightly, and secure it will) a string. Place in a stock pot with any meat bones you may have, and chopped soup vegetables and spices. Cover with boiling water and let it simmer three hours. Remove from the pot, place between two boards, with a weight on the top. When cold take out of the cloth and trim the ends, then glaze it over with meat glax.e. or, if preferred, pour aspic jelly over this. It may be served whole, garnished with lemon, or cut in thin slices and laid on salad, (larnish with parsley and boiled beets. 64 PROGRESSIVE COOKERY Glaze. Reduce the stock in which the gallatin has been made to a glaze; that is, boil away until it is thick. Smothered Chicken. Prepare chicken as for roasting, and split down the back. Heat in frying-pan four tablespoons of butter, lay in the seasoned chicken, breast side down. Simmer slowly one hour and a half, or until tender. Turn over, and cover with cream and smother half an hour. Remove chicken to hot platter, season the cream, thicken with flour, cook five minutes, pour over the chicken and serve. Garnish with points of toast. Or lay chicken in baking pan, breast up, cover closely and bake until a delicate brown and very tender. Cover with cream and pieces of butter. Season, cover, and let it cook half an hour. Scalloped Chicken. One chicken (or one can of boned chicken), can of mushrooms, small blade of mace, a few shred of onions, one tablespoon of butter, two tablespoons of flour, one cup of fine bread crumbs. Cut up the chicken, put in a saucepan the butter, mace and onions. When the butter is hot add the chicken. Stir until a glaze is over it, then add sufficient water to stew. Cook until ten- der. Take out the meat, separate from the bones, chop slightly, season. To one cup of broth add one teacup of milk, two table- spoons of butter, salt and pepper to taste, and one egg. Butter a baking dish, sprinkle with bread crumbs, a layer of chicken, then a layer of mushrooms cooked in one tablespoon of butter ; moisten well with the gravy; continue until the dish is full, adding crumbs last. Scatter over all a few bits of butter. Put in the oven and bake one-half hour. Fricassee of Chicken. Cut chicken neatly at every joint in pieces for serving. Heat a large piece of butter in a frying-pan, add a slice of salt pork; when hot put in one slice of onion, one of carrot and a bouquet. Put in the chicken and fry slowly; when brown, season, pour over hot water and simmer until tender. Remove PROGRESSIVE COOKERY 65 chicken, thicken the gravy, add one cup of cream, strain, return to btove, season ; put in the chicken and heat for about fifteen minutes. If liked, one-half cup of chopped mushrooms cooked in butter, may be added. Arrange the body of chicken in center of dish, with wings on top, thighs below, drumsticks at the end of platter. Pour over some of the gravy ; put the remainder in sauce-boat. Frogs' Legs a la Cream. Cook six pair's of frogs legs fifteen min- utes in hot milk with a little salt. Put one pint of cream in double boiler. When hot add half teaspoon of salt, saltspoon of white pepper. Melt two tablespoons of butter in hot saucepan ; add two tablespoons of flour, pour gradually over a part of the cream. Stir all into double boiler; stir well; when thick add the frogs' legs. Devilled Crab. One crab, pull off the sand bag and the shaggy substance from the sides, being careful to save the fat which is on the bottom and the sides of the shell. Chop the meat fine, season with a speck of cayenne, salt and pepper, two tablespoons of melted butter, one tablespoon of sherry, one beaten egg, two tablespoons of cream, a grating of nutmeg, one saltspoon of mustard. If not soft enough add more cream. Fill a crab shell, or small shells that can be had for this purpose. Cover with bread crumbs, squeeze on a little lemon juice, put bits of butter on top, and brown in a quick oven. If the flavor of garlic or onion is desired, rub on the shells before putting in the mixture. Serve on a bed of parsley or water- cresses, with a slice of lemon on each shell. Quenelles. Chop fine one pound of fresh veal, half lean and half fat, the fat nearest the kidney is the best; then pound it well and press it through a sieve. Mix the yolks of two eggs with it and season to taste with salt, pepper, nutmeg grated, and powdered cinnamon. Spread flour on the paste board, put a teaspoon of meat here and there, roll gently each part into small balls, using as little flour as possible. They may also be rolled an olive shape. Throw the balls into boiling broth or boiling water at the first boiling, boil 66 PROGRESSIVE COOKERY five minutes and drain. As soon as cold they are ready for use. Quenelles are used for garnishing. They may be fried instead of boiled. Rissoles or Ceciles. One pound of meat chopped fine, have two tablespoons of stale bread crumbs, two tablespoons of suet chopped, one teaspoon of chopped parsley, one-half teaspoon of sweet herbs, salt and pepper, gill of stock, one tablespoon of flour. Mix meat, butter, bread crumbs and herbs, salt, one tablespoon of flour, add one gill of stock. Flour the board and turn mixture on it. Form into little balls, roll in egg and bread crumbs. Fry in hot fat. For a change make plain pie crust, adding a little baking powder. Roll out thin, cut in small squares, put each rissole in a square and cover; dip in egg and crumbs; fry three minutes. Shrimps. Make a sauce, the same as white sauce, using one pint of cream, and add one cup of shrimps ; heat ; if liked, add one-half cup of strained cooked tomatoes. Liles aux Emoules. Open two quarts of clams or mussels by setting on stove in kettle without water. Add one clove of garlic and a bunch of parsley, and steam until open. Remove shells and strain liquor. Add to the liquor one cup of white wine, thicken with two tablespoons of flour and one of butter. Cook in double boiler. Add the yolks of two eggs, one cup of cream, the mussels and one cup of shrimps ; heat, skim out the mussels and shrimps, place on hot dish, and pour over the sauce. Garnish with points of toast. Creme Fr/te. Boil one pint of milk with one stick of cinnamon. Beat one-half cup of sugar, two tablespoons of corn starch and one of flour, with the yolks of three eggs, one-quarter cup of milk, one saltspoon of salt. Add boiling milk to this mixture, and cook fif- teen minutes in double boiler ; add one teaspoon butter, one teaspoon vanilla. Put away to cool in buttered pan. When cool cut >in fancy shapes, dip in bread crumbs, then egg, then bread crumbs; fry in deep fat. Sprinkle with sugar if you choose. I'KOi-KKSSIVK COOKERY 67 Barbecued Ham. Spread on slices of ham, cooked or uncooked, one teaspoon of mixed mustard, then add one teaspoon of vinegar; lay on hot saucepan, pour vinegar around, turn often. When cooked add a teaspoon of wine or vinegar. Serve hot. Honolulu Curry. A small cocoanut, one-quarter of an onion, a clove of garlic, inch of ginger, two tablespoons of curry powder, one quart of milk, four tablespoons of butter, four of flour, salt, pepper to taste. Grate cocoanut and ginger, onion, put into milk, with the curry powder; cook half an hour. Add butter and flour. Have cooked meat or fish cut in small pieces ; take half the curry mixture and heat the meat in it. Serve on a hot dish, with the rest of the mixture poured over it. Escalloped Calves' Brains. Soak two sets of calves' brains in warm water two bourn; free from skin and fibres, wash in cold water. Tie them loosely in muslin, put in saucepan, cover with boiling water, add one tablespoon of vinegar; boil gently ten min- utes, take from the water and put in cold water; when cold cut in small pieces. Heat one tablespoon of butter, add two table- spoons of flour; add one-half pint of hot milk to the cooked flour and butter; cook, add one-half teaspoon of onion juice, one-half tea- spoon of salt, a grain of pepper and one egg. Sprinkle on brains one-half tablespoon of salt and a speck of pepper. Have ready one pint of bread crumby. Alternate a layer of calves' brains and a layer of bread crumbs in a baking dish until full, and pour over the eauce. Bake twenty minutes. Calf's Head a la Turk. When the head is cooked remove the bones, put the head with skin down in baking pan, sprinkle with salt, pepper and mixed sweet herbs; cover with stale bread crumbs. Drop dabs of butter over it, put in quick oven and brown. Remove to a hot platter, garnish with the cooked tongue sliced and parsley. Serve with sauce piquante. Squeeze lemon juice over it before set- ting in oven. VEGETABLES See directions for cooking vegetables. Lyonnaise Potatoes. One pint of cold boiled potatoes cut into dice, season with salt and pepper. Fry one scant tablespoon of finely minced onion in one heaping tablespoon of butter until golden brown. Add potatoes and stir with a fork till they absorb the but- ter, being careful not to break the potatoes. Add one tablespoon of chopped parsley and one tablespoon of vinegar. Creamed Potatoes. Cut one pint cold potatoes into dice or thin slices, put them into a shallow pan, cover with milk, and cook until the potatoes have absorbed nearly all the milk. Add one tablespoon butter, one-half tablespoon salt, a speck of pepper and a little chopped parsley. Potato Boats. Select potatoes of uniform size, bake one-half hour or until done, take from oven, cut lengthwise or through the center. Scoop out the ineide, squeeze through a potato-ricer. Heat half a cup of milk, two tablespoons of melted butter. Season the potatoes, add milk and butter and beat till light and creamy. Put back carefully into half skins, rounding neatly with a knife dipped in milk. Put in oven and brown quickly. Maitre cT Hotel Potatoes. Cut cold boiled potatoes into cubes and season. Make a cream or milk sauce, put potatoes into part of sauce, place in a greased baking dish, cover with the remainder of 68 PROGRESSIVE COOKERY 69 sauce. Heat and brown slightly in a hot oven; sprinkle with chopped parsley and serve. Potatoes prepared in this way, using brown sauce instead, with a few drops of onion juice, are very good. Plain boiled potatoes may be pleasantly varied by adding a bay leaf when cooking. Escallope Potatoes. Slice raw potatoes, lay in cold water fifteen minutes. Put a layer of potatoes into a well greased baking dish, then sprinkle with salt and pepper and bits of butter, another layer of potatoes until two-thirds full, then pour in cold milk to nearly fill the dish. Put in the oven and cook covered one hour. They will be creamy if cooked in moderate oven. Potatoes au Gratin. Cut six cold boiled potatoes in dice. Melt two tablespoons of butter, add two tablespoons of flour, pour on one cup of hot stock and one cup of hot milk slowly. Add four heaping tablespoons of grated cheese, and salt and pepper to taste. Put a layer of potato in a dish, then some sauce, and so on until all is used. Sprinkle with crumbs and brown in the oven. A Southern Dish. Cut cold baked sweet potatoes into quarter- inch slices, and put them In an earthen dish. Spread each layer with butter, and sprinkle with sugar. Bake until hot and slightly browned. Scalloped Potatoes. Six large potatoes, one-half pound salt pork, one teaspoon salt, one-half teaspoon pepper. Slice the pota- toes and soak in cold water twenty minutes. Cut the pork in thin slices and freshen in cold water. Put alternate layers of pork and potatoes in a baking dish and sprinkle with seasoning. The pork should be at the top and bottom of the dish. Cover the dish and bake in a moderate oven thirty minutes. Remove the cover and bake twenty minutes longer. Potatoes with Bacon. Eight potatoes, eight strips of bacon, 70 PROGRESSIVE COOKERY one-half saltspoon of pepper. Wash and peel the potatoes, then with an apple-corer take a piece out of the potatoes from end to end, draw through the holes the strips of bacon well seasoned with pep- per. Bake in an earthen dish. Boiled Potatoes. Select potatoes of uniform size. Wash and scrub them. Pare and cover with cold water. Put them into a saucepan of boiling salted water. Cook- half an hour or until soft. Drain off every drop of water. Place the saucepan, uncovered, at the back of the stove to let the steam escape. Shake gently. Serve hot. Mint Sauce for Lamb. One cup of fresh mint, one-quarter cup of brown sugar, one-half cup of vinegar. Pick off the leaves, chop them, add the vinegar and sugar, if the vinegar is too strong add a little water or more sugar. Make about one-half hour before needed. Rice Potatoes. Boil potatoes, press them through a tin ricer into a hot dish. Mashed Potatoes. To one pint of hot boiled potatoes add one tablespoon of butter, one-half teaspoon of salt, a speck of pepper and enough hot milk to moisten. Mash in the saucepan in which they are boiled; beat with a fork till light and creamy. Turn out lightly on a hot dish. Potato Cakes. Make cold mashed potatoes into round cakes about one-half inch thick. Put into a baking tin and brush over with milk. Bake in a hot oven till a golden brown. Potato Souffle. Prepare mashed potatoes, adding a little celery, salt and chopped parsley ; beat the whites of two eggs to a stiff froth ; add a little salt. Turn into a baking dish, pile in a rocky form, bake ten minutes, until brown. PROGRESSIVE COOKERY 71 A very attractive dish is mashed sweet and white potatoes, served together; put first a strip of the white, the width of the dish, then one of the yellow, and so on, until the dish is full. Never smooth mashed potato. Pile it lightly up. Cook scalloped potatoes an hour in a hot oven in a pudding pan. Soak cauliflower one-half hour before cooking, head downward in salted water. Make potato salad of yesterday's and to-day's potatoes. French Potatoes in Brown Butter. Peel potatoes and lay in cold water, scoop into round balls with French cutter. Put them into boiling salted water, parboil them, remove with a skimmer, par- tially cool, brown in hot butter; add a little onion juice. These make a very pretty garnishing for stews and entrees. Saratoga Potatoes. Slice raw potatoes very thin, let lay in ice water one hour. Have the deep fat smoking hot. Heat wire frying basket, remove potatoes and dry quickly in cloth, put them into the frying basket a few at a time, plunge into boiling fat, fry a light brown. Put on brown paper to absorb the fat, and set in the oven to dry off a few moments. Heat fat again and fry remainder of the potatoes, spread on fresh brown paper and dry as before. The suc- cess of these potatoes depends altogether on the heat of the fat. Green Peas. Peas are fresh when the pods are green and crisp. The fresh pods are sweet and nutritious. Wash the pods before shelling. Put the peas in a colander. Pour over them a little cold water. Put the pods in boiling water, cook them ten minutes, take them out with a skimmer, add the peas, cook twenty minutes, or until tender. When half done add the salt. Put into a hot vege- table dish, allowing one tablespoon of butter to each quart of peas, or make a thin white sauce and add to the peas. To keep peas green cook with the cover off, or add a speck of soda. The French way of 72 PROGRESSIVE COOKERY cooking peas is to add while boiling a bouquet or two or three leaves of mint. If peas are not sweet add a little sugar while cooking. For a change cut carrots in dice, cook and add to the peas. Serve in white sauce. String" Beans. Wash, break off the stem, and pull off the string at the side of each bean, break off the end, and string on the other side. Cut in inch pieces, or cut lengthwise in narrow strips. Boil the same as peas. Cook one hour. Asparagus. Wash, tie in bundles, cut off jagged ends. Put in a stewpan, throw over salt, cover with boiling water ; boil from twenty minutes to half an hour. Serve with white sauce, or mayonnaise dressing, or on buttered toast, covering ends with one tablespoon of melted butter ; or thicken the liquid the asparagus has been boiled in with flour and butter blended together, allowing one tablespoon of butter and one of flour to each large bunch. Succotash Green Corn. One pint of shelled beans, one pint of green corn, after it has been cut from the cob. Put the corn and cobs in boiling water, cook from ten to fifteen minutes. Cook lima beans one-half hour, add the corn, season with one teaspoon of salt and a saltspoon of pepper ; butter the size of an egg, one-half cup of cream. Green corn becomes tough if cooked too long. Cook corn on the cobs the same length of time. Serve in a napkin folded over the corn. Beets. Wash beets, put them in boiling water, boil from one to one and one-half hours. Throw them into cold water, and the dark, thick skin will rub off. Cut in slices, place in hot serving dish, put on pieces of butter, sprinkle with salt and pepper. Or cut in slices, and when cold pour over vinegar. Add a little vinegar to cooked beets before putting over butter, if cared for. Carrots Turnips. Scrape carrots before boiling. Boil from one hour to two hours. Peel turnips, boil one hour, mash, add butter and salt and pepper. PROGKKHS1VK COOKERY 73 Lettuce. Lettuce grown in hot-house should not be washed, hut that grown in the garden, on account of the grit, must be washed. Do not chop lettuce. Onions Baked. Remove outer skin, cut out hard part at one end, put into the hollow a piece of butter, some pepper and salt ; bake in a buttered pan from one to one and one-half hours. Boiled Onions. Cook one hour in boiling salted water. Put into hot dish, remove the hard part at end, put a piece of butter in each one, pepper and salt ; put on the hot cover and serve, or serve with white or brown sauce. Baked Tomatoes. Chop two tablespoons of lean ham, two mush- rooms, one small shalot, one tablespoon of parsley, one tablespoon of cheese, one teaspoon of bread crumbs ; season, mix with one egg. Remove a little of the center, and stuff the tomatoes ; stew with bread crumbs, add bits of butter, bake until brown. Serve with any sauce preferred. Baked Cauliflowers. Boil a small cauliflower in water enough to cover it with the flower part down until tender, having one tea- spoon of salt in the water. When the cauliflower is boiled suffic- iently put it in a baking dish and cover with cream sauce ; sprinkle with English dairy cheese grated ; bake until light brown. Be care- ful to have cauliflower whole. Cauliflower, cabbage and artichokes should lay in cold salted water before cooking. A piece of charcoal added to the water while cauliflower is cooking will prevent any odor. Spinach. Wash thoroughly, then each leaf, carefully. Then drain in a colander. Put on to cook without water, sprinkle with salt. Cover tightly and cook fifteen minutes, chop fine in tray, add one tablespoon of butter, a grating of nutmeg. Return to kettle and heat, take up with skimmer into a hot dish. Garnish with hard boiled eggs. ,4 PROGRESSIVE COOKERY Artichokes. Boil in salted water one-half hour, remove a few of the outer leaves ; serve hot, with mayonnaise dressing. Egg Plant. Cut the plant in slices one-third of an inch thick, with or without peeling, sprinkle salt over each slice, pile them, and cover with a weight to press out the juice. Drain and dip each slice, first in fine bread crumbs, then in beaten egg, again in crumbs, and fry in hot fat. Mushrooms Stewed. Peel the top and stalk, break in small pieces, place them in a stewpan, sprinkle with salt and pepper, let them stand half an hour, until juice is drawn out. Add a tablespoon of butter ; cook until tender, add cream to cover, and when cream is hot serve on toast. Stewed Cucumbers. Pare the cucumbers, cut them into quarters, remove the seeds, soak in salted water one-half hour. Then put them in salted boiling water and cook until tender. Season with salt, pepper and butter and serve on toast. They will cook in half an hour. Fried Cucumbers. Pare good-sized cucumbers, lay in cold or ice water one-half hour. Then slice lengthwise one-quarter inch thick, sprinkle slices with salt, let stand fifteen minutes. Wipe, roll in flour, fry very brown in hot fat. Serve on hot napkin. Tomatoes. Fry sliced tomatoes in hot sweet oil. Cabbage. Try cabbage cooked same as cauliflower. Fried Bananas. Cut bananas lengthwise and fry brown in butter. Rice d la Carolina. To one cup of nice, well-washed rice, allow three cups of boiling water. Put rice in a stewpan, add the water, PROGRESSIVE COOKERY 75 and one teaspoon of salt. Boil rapidly, occasionally stirring with a fork, when the water disappears cover the pot with a cloth and place at back of the stove, or where only heat enough will be obtained to slowly steam the rice. Boil without a lid. Boiled Rice. Three quarts of boiling water, two and one-half tablespoons of salt, one cup of rice. Have water boiling very fast ; put in the rice, and cook fifteen to twenty minutes without stirring. When soft drain off every particle of water and let it stand in the colander on the back of the stove till dry. Chicken Salad. One pint of cold boiled or roasted chicken, one- half pint of celery. Cut the chicken in small pieces. Wash and scrape the celery, cut in small pieces. Mix with a French dressing. Put away on ice. Make a mayonnaise dressing. Mix a part with the chicken. Pile the chicken on a dish, pour the rest of the dressing over it. Garnish the top with cold cooked beets cut in fancy shapes, the ends and sides with celery leaves. Tomato Salad. Take six small firm tomatoes. Put them into 1 Killing water and remove the skins. Set away for an hour to get thoroughly cool. Then scoop out from the center of each tomato a piece the size of a hickory nut. Fill with mayonnaise dressing. Set each tomato on a lettuce leaf, adding more dressing. Serve individ- ually very cold. Potato Salad. Four boiled potatoes mashed and rubbed through a sieve. Mix one saltspoon of mustard, two teaspoons of salt, yolks of two hard boiled eggs, a few drops of onion juice, add slowly four teaspoons of oil, two tablespoons of vinegar and one tablespoon of anchovy sauce. Mix thoroughly with the potato. Garnish with parsley and serve very cold, or cut in dice and serve the same way. Lettuce Salad. When served as a salad, put the dressing on the 76 PROGRESSIVE COOKERY whole leaves, curl, shell shape, serve individually or pile in salad dish, mix and cover with mayonnaise dressing, garnished with boiled beets cut in fancy shapes, or rings of whites of hard boiled eggs. Shrimp or Crab Salad. Make a mayonnaise dressing. Mix in the shrimps, spread over with the dressing and garnish with beets cut in fancy shapes. For crab salad remove the meat from a cooked crab, chop rather fine, season with salt, pepper and a speck of cay- enne pepper ; mix and cover with mayonnaise dressing the same as above. Or lay leaves of lettuce around the dish and fill with the fish or shrimps, mix and cover with the dressing and garnish with rings of eggs or beets cut in fancy shapes. Oyster Salad. One quart of oysters, one pint of celery, one-third cup of mayonnaise dressing, three tablespoons of vinegar, one table- spoon of oil, one-half teaspoon of salt, one-eighth teaspoon of pepper, one tablespoon of lemon juice. Let the oysters come to a boil in their own liquor. Skim well, and drain. Season them with the oil, vinegar, pepper, salt and lemon juice. When cold put on the ice for two hours. Wash the whitest part of the celery, and cut in very thin slices. Put it in a bowl with a large lump of ice. At serving time, drain the celery, and mix with the oysters and half of the dressing. Pour the remainder over the top, and garnish with white celery leaves. Lobster Salad. Cut into cubes enough lobster to make a quart. Put it into a bowl, and mix with it three tablespoons of vinegar, one tablespoon of oil, one teaspoon of salt, and one-half teaspoon of pepper. Put on ice for an hour. Wash the heart leaves of four heads of lettuce, place in a dish and sprinkle with cracked ice. When ready to serve stir one-half pint of mayonnaise into the lobster. Shake ice and water from the lettuce ; form the leaves into shells with one tablespoon of lobster in each shell and one teaspoon of dressing on top of lobster. PROGRESSIVE COOKERY 77 Asparagus Salad. Take cold boiled asparagus, pile eight stalks ; plates as many as are needed and put a tablespoon of Remoullde sauce on each plate. Preserved Pears or Other Large Fruits. Wash, pare, quarter and core pears of uniform size ; throw them into cold water to pre- vent them from turning brown. Fill preserving jars neatly with the pears. Set them in a nicely scrubbed wash boiler with a rack on the bottom, add cold water to come up one-fourth of the jars. Make a syrup allowing one pint of granulated sugar to a quart of water, tie up in a piece of cheese cloth, six cloves, some of allspice, a small piece of cinnamon, a pinch of dried ginger ; put into the syrup, cook the syrup ten minutes, pour this syrup hot into the jars till they overflow. Put on the cover of the boiler and steam twenty minutes. Remove the jars, screw on the covers. When cold screw them again. A rack can be made of laths fitted together to form squares. CAKES DIRECTIONS FOR CAKE MAKING Read all recipes carefully before commencing, and then try and remember them, having your book before you to refer to. Have all materials measured before commencing to mix, the pan buttered, and the baking powder in the sifted flour. Beat the butter to a cream, add the sugar and beat again. Then add the beaten yolks of eggs (if there is milk in the cake put it into the bowl the eggs have been beaten in); add alternately the milk and flour; then the flav- oring. Stir in the center with the spoon held straight, occasionally stirring around the edges. When well stirred beat vigorously. Now add the well beaten whites, folding in over and over. Bake the cake as soon as mixed. For sponge cake beat the yolks ten minutes, add the sugar and beat again; then the flour, flavoring, etc., and lastly the beaten whites. Butter the tins, and for thick cake put in a strip of paper, allow- ing it to come an inch above the pan. This enables you to lift the cake out when baked. Or cut paper the size of the bottom of the pan and slightly grease again. The success of cake depends on the baking and mixing. To bake thick cake heat your oven, then partly close the dampers and add more coal. If too hot, leave the door open until the oven cools off a bit, then close. Put in your cake and cover with a pan the same size as the one your cake is in. Do not open the door for half an hour, if possible; should you open it be very careful to open gently. Thin cakes will bake in twenty to twenty -five minutes ; larger, in proportion to size. If necessary to 78 PROGRESSIVE COOKKKV 79 move cake do it very carefully, and not until it is set in the middle. When cake shrinks from the sides and does not stick to a wisp of broom when inserted into the center, it is baked. Do not take from the oven too quickly or the cake will fall. If the oven be too hot the cake will brown before rising. When it rises in the center, breaks open and stays up it is too stiff with flour. It should first rise around the edges, then in the middle. Mix cake in an earthen bowl, never in tin. Use the best materials, the finest granulated or powdered sugar. Eggs must be fresh and cold. When making cake it is best to use a Dover egg beater for beating the whites of eggs. For meringue and egg-nog beat with wire beater and beat on a platter with a long motion, slow at first, then quicker. Put a small pinch of salt on the platter before you commence to beat, for recipes where salt is called for, such as custards, etc. Yolks can be beaten to a froth in ten minutes. Eggs must not be allowed to stand after you commence to beat them, or they will return to liquid and will not again become light. Keep eggs in a cold place, and if soiled wash them before putting away. Never allow an egg beater to soak in water. Wash it by beating in the water. California flour is richer than Eastern flour, therefore, in cake making, use a little less butter than the recipes call for. What is called pastry flour in Eastern cook-books is the same as our best roller flour. California wheat is richer and more nutritious; there- fore, our roller flour is not quite so dry as Eastern pastry flour. Citron should not be floured. To keep citron from dropping to the bottom of cake put a layer of cake and then a layer of citron, until the materials are used up, the top layer being cake. This applies to deep cakes. Pick currants over carefully, wash and dry in a cloth ; set in moderate oven to dry thoroughly before putting in the jar. Stone raisins, put in jars and set away for use, so that in making cakes, etc., they may be in readiness. If you cannot have full control of the stove do not attempt to make cake. Stir with a wooden spoon. Currants and raisins must be floured before using, 80 PROGRESSIVE COOKERY or they will drop to the bottom of cake. Beating cake, etc., beats in the air. If well beaten whites are added last beat cake, and then fold in the whites over and over, but do not stir. BAKING POWDERS Pure baking powders are soda and cream of tartar mixed in the proper proportions, combined with rice flour, corn starch, or some harmless ingredient to insure keeping. Cream of tartar is often mixed with a white earth that the unexperienced cannot detect. Soda being less expensive is not so much adulterated. Consequently the using of soda and cream of tartar is objectionable. Pure baking powder can be had. I get the best results from Dr. Price's Baking Powder. Ammonia in baking powder causes the big holes and dry cake and biscuit, instead of light, flaky cake and biscuit. Water Sponge Cake. One egg, one-half cup of sugar, one tea- spoon of lemon juice, three tablespoons of cold water, two-thirds cup of flour, one even teaspoon of baking powder. Beat the yolk, then add sugar and beat again, add the lemon juice and water, then the flour in which the baking powder has been mixed, lastly the white beaten stiff. Bake in shallow pans. Put jelly between the layers and ice with boiled icing. Sponge Cake. One cup of sugar, one cup of flour, three eggs, thre*e tablespoons of milk, two teaspoons of yeast powder. Mix as directed in Water Sponge Cake. Lady Fingers, or Sponge Drops. Beat the yolks of four eggs ten minutes, add one-half cup of powdered sugar, flavoring, beat in three-quarters of a cup of the best roller flour, put one-half saltspoon of salt in a dish and add the whites, beaten stiff and dry. Fold into the yolks and flour. Pour this mixture through a funnel made of white letter paper, press on buttered tins about three inches long, and less than one inch wide, or drop by spoonfuls on buttered tins, sprinkle over powdered sugar, and bake in a slow oven. Stick to- gether with white of egg. PROGUKSSIYK COOKERY 81 Diamond Sponge Cakes. Any good cake will do for these, but sponge is preferable. Bake an inch thick in square tins. Cut dia- mond shape, frost with violet, green and pink and white; flavor with violet, pistachio, rose water and lemon. The effect is very pretty. Old Time Sponge Cake. The weight of twelve eggs in bar or powdered sugar. Weight of six eggs in flour, rind and juice of one lemon. Beat the yolks very light, add the sugar and flour altern- ately and slowly, stirring in the center and occasionally round the Bfl with a knife, then add the lemon juice and rind, last of all stir in the flour. All the stirring must be done slowly and gently. Hake in a moderate oven three-quarters of an hour. Prepare the fire and have the oven right heat and gradually increase the heat a little by opening dampers to stove. Bake in thick round tins with a tube. Baba au Rhum. One pint of flour, one cake of yeast, ten ounces of sugar, one pound of flour, four eggs, one-half pint of rum, four ounces of butter. Make a batter of the flour, yeast, adding a little salt. When light add the sugar, well beaten eggs and melted but- ter; beat well. Put in a deep round pan, with a tube to rise. Bake one hour. Heat the rum with two tablespoons of sugar, and pour slowly over the cake till all is absorbed. Mask with melted currant jelly. H,i vc chopped blanched pistachio nuts and almonds and orna- ment. Chocolate Cake. One and two-thirds cup of sugar, two-thirds of a cup of butter, two-thirds of a cup of milk, three eggs, two and two thirds cups of flour, two-thirds of a cup of grated chocolate, one teaspoon of cinnamon, one-half teaspoon of cloves, two teaspoons of baking-powder, one-half cup of blanched almonds. Cream the butter and sugar, add the beaten yolks, then the milk, chocolate and spices, and flour into which the baking-powder has been added, and lastly 82 PROGRESS I YK COOKERY the beaten whites. Put into a deep pan, bake in a moderate oven. Bake one hour without disturbing, then try with a wisp of a broom ; if the wisp is dry, keep in a short time longer, them remove. Let it stand a time, turn on to a sieve, then put on a plate. Have almonds blanched, dried, not browned, and chopped a little. Cover with frost- ing into which the almonds have been added. A mottled cake can be made of the same cake mixture by putting the chocolate and spices in half the mixture adding one-third of a cup of chopped almonds. Bake as directed. This is a good recipe for layer cake, omitting chocolate, etc. Cup Cake. One cup of sugar, a piece of butter size of an egg, one- half cup of milk, two eggs, two cups of flour, flavor to taste, one teaspoon of baking powder. This will make twelve cakes, baked in gem pans. Citron Cake. Two and one-half cups of sugar, one scant cup of butter, five eggs, one cup of milk, four cups of flour, two teaspoons of baking powder, one and one-half pounds of citron. Cream butter, add sugar, cream again, add the well-beaten yolks and milk, flour, and baking powder ; lastly whites beaten stiff. Have citron finely cut ; butter and line a dish or pan, put in a layer of cake one inch thick, then a layer of citron, until cake material is used up. Bake in moderate over. Or omit citron, and add one-half a grated nutmeg. Quick Cake. Sift together one and one-half cups of flour and two teaspoons of baking powder. Add one cup of sugar ; beat three eggs and add it to one-half cup of milk, pour into the flour and sugar, stir well, last pour in two heaping tablespoons of melted butter and stir all well. Flavor to taste. Lemon Wafers. Two cups sugar, one cup of butter, two eggs, one- half teacup of sour milk, one-half teaspoon of soda, lemon essence and flour to roll very thin. 83 Ice Cream dike. One -half cii]iof butter, one and one-half cups of sugar. t\v> cups of flour, one-half cup of milk, white of five eggs, two level teaspoons of linking powder, one-half teaspoon of vanilla extract. Cream the hutter, add sugar gradually, then vanilla, milk, and the well-beaten whites ; lastly, stir in quickly and well the flour and baking powder sifted together. Put in four round, small haking pans and bake in moderate oven twenty-five to thirty minutes. When the cakes are cold, make a boiled icing, put part between the layers, and then spread the rest all over the cake. Porcupine Cake. Beat the whites of five eggs to a stiff froth, and gradually beat in three-fourths of a cup of granulated sugar, after first sifting. Beat the yolks of three eggs very light, and add to the whites and sugar. Add one-half teaspoon of orange extract, and then stir one-half cup of flour (in which one-half teaspoon of cream tartar has been sifted), and mix quickly and well. Bake in a slow oven, in a pan with a tube. Filling : one-half cup of milk, one teaspoon of cornstarch, about one-half cup of sugar, and yolks of two eggs ; flavor with lemon. When the cake is baked fill the cavity, and cover with stiff frosting. Blanch a pound of almonds by pouring boiling water over them, let stand awhile, remove the skins, and when icing is nearly dry stick almonds in top and sides. Cocoanut Cake. Grate one cocoanut ; one-half cup of powdered sugar, one-quarter of a cup of butter, one-quarter of a cup of milk, one-quarter of a cup of corn starch, one-half a cup of flour, whites of two eggs, one-half teaspoon of cream of tartar, one-quarter tea- spoon of soda. Cream butter and sugar, add milk and soda, then flour, corn starch and soda (mixed), alternately with the beaten wliites. Bake in a round, deep pan thirty-five to forty minutes. Remove from the pan, and when nearly cold cut carefully around the edge, half way between the top and the bottom, break open, spread in the filling, put on the cake cover. Pour boiled icing over the top. Spread all over with a silver knife dipped in hot water. Throw over the rest of the grated cocoanut. 84 PROGRESSIVE COOKERY Filling for Cake. Yolks of two eggs, one cup of granulated sugar, rind and juice of one large lemon, one cup of grated cocoanut. Beat the eggs well, and mix with the other ingredients. Boil fifteen min- utes, then beat until creamy. Ice, and cover with grated cocoanut. White Cake. Two-thirds cup of butter, two cups of powdered sugar, one-half cup of milk, two and one-half cups of roller flour, two teaspoons of baking powder, whites of eight eggs, saltspoon of cream tartar, one teaspoon of peach extract. Rub the butter and sugar to a cream. Mix the baking powder with the flour, add milk and flour alternately, then the flavoring. Add to the whites the cream of tartar, beat stiff and dry, fold in carefully. Bake in a mod- erate oven is oblong tins. Wedding Cake. One pound of sugar, one pound of butter, one pound of flour, twelve eggs, one teaspoon each of cinnamon and all- spice and cloves, one-half teaspoon each of mace and nutmeg, two pounds of raisins, two pounds of currants, one pound of citron, one pound of almonds, one wineglass of brandy and one lemon. Line two deep, large tins with three thicknesses of paper, and butter the top paper ; blanch and chop almonds, seed the raisins, have currants well washed and dry, cut citron in smallj oblong slices, put layer of cake, add the citron till all is used ; currants and raisins mix w T ith flour enough to coat thoroughly. Add lemon juice and rind and brandy to creamed sugar and butter, then the beaten yolks, then beaten whites, and lastly the flour and fruit. Fill pan two-thirds full, as this cake does not rise much. Bake three hours in moderate oven. Pound Cake. Make pound cake the same as wedding cake, using ten eggs and omitting fruit and spices. Dorcas Cake. One-half cup butter, two cups of sugar creamed together. Whites of five eggs beaten stiff, two cups of flour, two tea- PROGRESSIVE COOKKKY 85 of baking powder, 1 cup of milk. For frosting use the yolks of eggs, stir in enough powdered sugar to make stiff. Add the juice and rind of one lemon. Bake in two layers ; spread frosting between and over the cake. Sunshine Cake. Ten eggs, taking only five yolks, twelve ounces of granulated sugar, six ounces of flour, sifted, five teaspoonfuls of orange juice, rind of half an orange, one teaspoonful of cream of tar- tar. Sift the flour and tartar together. Beat the whites of the eggs very light; add the sugar gradually, then cut the yolks with a broad Made knife into these. Add the flour last, cutting it also with a knife very lightly. Bake in round pans with a tube in the center. Line the bottom of pan and the funnel, heat the pan; turn in the cake. Bake forty minutes in a moderate oven. Miss Marion Davis, T' nr/,1 / i,f Measure, or Fourth Cake. One cup of butter, two of sugar, three of flour and four eggs, with a very little saleratus dissolved in four tablespoonfuls of milk, or two of milk and two of wine, and a little nutmeg. To have cake light and fine the eggs should be well beaten . yolks and whites separately, and stirred in lightly after hav- ing rubbed tbe butter and sugar to a cream. Princess or Angel Cake. Whites of eleven eggs, one and one- lialf cups of granulated sugar, one cup of flour, one teaspoon of cream of tartar, one-half teaspoon of almond or vanilla. Beat eggs to a froth; sift the sugar five times; sift the flour four times; then add the cream of tartar and sift again; beat the eggs and sugar together, add the flavoring, then the flour; stir quickly and lightly. Bake tbe same as Sunshine. Brandy Snap. One cup sugar, one cup flour, one-half cup molasses, one-half cup of butter, one teaspoon ginger. Mix same as cake. Drop on tins far apart. When a little cool try to turn them up with a knife; roll as soon as removed from pan. Keep in a tin tightly covered. 86 PROGRESSIVE COOKERY Rock Cake. One cup of butter, two cups flour, one-half large cup sugar, one teaspoon baking powder, two eggs beaten separately, one-half pound citron or currants. Warm the butter, and then add the flour and baking powder. Beat the yolks and add the sugar, then the beaten whites and turn into the flour mixture; lastly the fruit. Take up the mixture with a fork and drop on greased pans in rough little heaps half an inch apart. Bake ten minutes in a hot oven. Walnut Wafers. One cup of brown sugar, one cup of walnuts broken in small pieces, two eggs, a pinch of salt, three h eapi ng table- spoons of flour. Drop on buttered tins and bake in quick oven a few minutes. Gold Cake. One-half cup of butter, one and one-half cups of fine granulated sugar, yolks of four eggs, one whole egg, one-half cup of milk, one-half teaspoon of mace, two teaspoons of baking powder, two and one-half cups of flour. Mix in order given. Silver Cake. One-half cup of butter, one and one-half cups of sugar, one-half teaspoon of almond, one-half cup of milk, two tea- spoons of baking powder, two and one-half cups of flour, whites of five eggs. Mix in the order given, putting baking powder in flour, and adding milk and flour alternately. Bake in moderate oven until loaf shrinks from pan. Watermelon cake may be made from this recipe by using red sugar in the gold cake, and adding one cup of raisins seeded and rolled in flour. Put red cake in center of round pan and white around it, or the red at bottom and white on top. Bake in round pan. Another way: Bake gold and silver cake infancy tins; when cold break open, spread with -lemon butter. Frost. Coffee Cake. Make any cup cake, use strong, clear coffee instead of milk. Add spices and fruit to taste. PROGRESSIVE COOKERY 87 Molasses Ginger Bread. Add to two cups of New Orleans molasses a half teaspoon of soda, two teaspoons of ginger; melted butter the size of an egg. Beat well. To a cup of sour milk or cream add another half teaspoon of soda; pour into molasses mix- ture; add a beaten egg and two cups and one-half of sifted flour. I>e: it well, and bake in a long tin in a slow oven half an hour. Apple Cake. Make the cup cake with two eggs, add one cup of chopped a j >ples and one-half teaspoon of the extract of cinnamon. Venetian Cakes. One-quarter pound of butter, wash free from salt, beat to a cream, and add one-quarter pound of powdered sugar, yolks of three eggs, one cup of sliced almonds, five or six ounces of Hour. The paste should be like soft biscuit dough. Dip the hand into powdered sugar, break off pieces of dough, and roll into balls the size of hickory nuts. Bake in quick oven. Stick two cakes to- gether with any preferred frosting. Banana Cake. Bake any light cake in shallow pans as for cream or jelly cake. When ready to serve (not before), cover one cake with sliced bananas, sprinkle with powdered sugar and orange juice. Put on the other cake and cover in the same manner. Nut Cake. Add nuts to any of the cake recipes given except sponge. Chop any kind of nuts liked, mix them into the cake, put- ting whole ones over the frosting, or mix chopped nuts into frosting and put between layers. Ice the top with boiled icing. Molasses Ginger Cakes. One cup of molasses, one cup of sour milk, one tablespoon of ginger, one even teaspoon of soda, one-half cup of butter, flour enough to roll out. Put one-half of the soda in molasses and one-half in the milk; add to the molasses ginger and butter melted. imt />?, beat well and add the milk, then add flour, and roll out one-quarter of an inch thick. Cut with a biscuit cut- ter. Bake. 8 PROGRESSIVE COOKERY Orange, Lemon or Pineapple Cake. Any of the preceding white cakes, baked in layers, may be used for banana, orange, lemon or pineapple cake, frosting and ornamenting with the same. Ba- nanas should be sliced and sprinkled with sugar a short time before using. Spread the layer with frosting, then a layer of bananas, sliced; let stand awhile to harden, cover with a layer of frosting; let it harden again, and put on the other layer of cake. Frost and ornament with bananas. To Prepare Lemons, Oranges or Pineapples for Layer Cakes. Cut four lemons or oranges into thin slices, put them in a china or earthen bowl, cover with two quarts of cold water and soak over night. In the morning lift them carefully from the water, cover them with one-half pound of sugar and one-half pint of water, cook very slowly for three hours, then drain the slices, put them on a meat platter, dust with granulated sugar and stand aside to cool. This can be done a day or two before you wish to use them. Strawberry Short-Cake. One pint of flour, two teaspoons of baking powder, one egg, two-thirds of a cup of milk, one-third of a cup of butter, one-half a teaspoon of salt. Add the baking powder and salt to the flour. Beat the egg and add the milk to it. Make a hole in the flour and stir in the milk and egg. Melt the butter and stir into the dough. Spread into a round pan and bake. Remove from the oven, tear open, spread lightly with butter, pile sweet- ened strawberries over the top and garnish with whipped cream, or make a soft dough as directed for biscuit, and prepare as above. Dutch Apple Cake. One pint of flour, one-half teaspoon of salt, two teaspoons of baking powder, one-quarter cup of butter, one egg, one scant cup of milk, four sour apples, two tablespoons of sugar. Mix the dry ingredients in the order given, rub in the butter, beat the egg and mix it with the milk and stir into the dry mixture. The dough should be soft enough to spread half an inch thick on a shal- low baking pan. Core, pare and cut four or five apples into eighths; PROGKKSSIVK rooKKKY S ( J lay tliem in parallel rows on top of the dough, the sharp edge down, and j tress enough to make the edge penetrate slightly. Sprinkle the sugar en the apple. Bake in a hot oven twenty or thirty minutes. To be eaten hot with butter as a tea cake, or with lemon sauce as a padding. Huckleberry Ctikc. Make the same as apple cake, substituting one pint of huckleberries sprinkled with flour to prevent their fall- ing to the bottom. Stilly Liinn. l~se the same recipe, omitting fruit. Cold Water Icing. One-half cup of water, mix in enough pow- dered sugar until it will drop from the spoon like a stiff batter. Flavor, spread on the top of the cake and place in a warm oven a few mini Boiled Icing. Boil two cups of granulated sugar and one-half cup of boiling water gently for ten minutes. When it spins into threads from a fork pour the syrup in a thin stream upon the well- beaten whites of two eggs, beating constantly until of right thickness. Add one-half teaspoon of vanilla. Do not stir while cooking. Frosting No. 1. White of one egg, one cup of powdered sugar, beat white of egg slightly, adding two teaspoons of lemon juice. Add sugar, hint a-, //; the longer it is beaten the better it will be. Old Time-Frosting No. 2. White of one egg, beaten stiff, add one and one-half cups of sifted powdered sugar, gradually. Beat again. This frosting will be very hard. Flavor. Chocolate Icing No. 1. Four tablespoons of grated sweet choc- olate, two tablespoons of brown sugar, one teaspoon of prepared gum Arabic, three teaspoons of milk: boil briskly ten minutes; do not stir alter it boils. Prepared gum Arabic can be had at a druggist's. 90 PROGRESSIVE COOKERY Chocolate Icing No. 2. Three grated bars of chocolate, two eggs, one teaspoon of corn starch, two-thirds of a cup of sugar. Put all together, set on the stove, and stir until thick. Spread all over cake. For chocolate deep cake chop two tablespoons of blanched almonds and add to the frosting. Frost or ice by pouring on the center of cake and spreading with a silver knife dipped in hot water. Chocolate Frosting. Whites of two eggs, two cups of powdered sugar, four bars of sweet chocolate, grated. Chocolate Frosting. One cup of granulated sugar, two bars of grated chocolate, one-fourth cup of water ; stir all over the fire to a thick, smooth paste. Cream Cakes. One cup hot water, one-half teaspoonful salt, one- half cup butter, one and one-half cups pastry flour, five eggs, yolks and whites beaten separately. Boil the water, salt and butter. When boiling add the dry flour, stir well for five minutes, and when cold, add the eggs. This is such a stiff mixture many find it easier to mix with the hand, and some prefer to add the eggs whole, one at a time. When well mixed drop in tablespoon fuls on a buttered bak- ing-pan, some distance apart. Bake twenty to thirty minutes, or till brown and well puffed. Split when cool, and fill with cream. Cream for Cream Cakes. One pint milk, boiled, three table- spoonfuls cornstarch, three eggs, well beaten, three-quarters cup sugar, one saltspoonful salt, or one teaspoonful butter. Wet the cornstarch in cold milk, and cook in the boiling milk ten minutes. Beat the eggs; add the sugar and the thickened milk. Cook in the double boiler five minutes. Add the salt or butter, and when cool, flavor with lemon, vanilla or almond. PUDDINGS Sno\v Balls. Three eggs, one-half cup of sugar, one scant cup of sifted flour, rind of one lemon, three tablespoons of water, two table- spoons of lemon juice, one and one-half tablespoons of baking pow- der. Beat sugar and yolks together until light, add water, lemon juice and rind, then beaten whites, and lastly flour and baking pow- der mixed. Stir quickly, and steam in buttered earthen cups three-quarters of an hour, or bake one-half hour. When done roll in powdered sugar. Serve with strawberry sauce. Chantilly Pudding. Five eggs, one cup of powdered sugar, one cup of flour, grated rind and juice of one orange, one teaspoon of baking powder mixed in the flour. Beat yolks and sugar together until light. Add orange and grated rind, and beat five minutes longer. Beat whites of eggs stiff, stir lightly into the other ingredi- ents. Add floor, stirring lightly. Turn into a deep border mould, and bake in a moderate oven thirty-five minutes. When baked, let it partially cool in the mould, then turn out on a flat dish. Spread one-half pint of strawberry preserves in center of the cake. Frost the outside with pink frosting. Soak one-quarter package of gela- tine in one-half cup of cold water for two hours. Put a pint of cream in a pan placed in another containing ice water. Beat stiff. Sprinkle two tablespoons of wine and one-half cup of sugar over it. 1'oiir one-half cup of boiling water on soaked gelatine, and stir until all is dissolved. Strain this liquid over the cream. Stir from the bottom of pan until mixture is so thick that it will hardly flow. Turn instantly into the center of cake. Put in refrigerator for at least an hour longer. Ornament with chopped blanched pistachio nuts. 91 92 PROGRESSIVE COOKERY Vanilla Souffle. One and one-third cups of milk, two eggs, one- half teaspoon of vanilla, a pinch of salt, two tablespoons of flour, two tablespoons of sugar. Pour gradually one-half of the milk on the flour. Set the rest of the milk to boil in double boiler, add the flour mixture, cook two minutes. Take up, add the well-beaten yolks, beat well, then add the beaten whites. Bake in a buttered dish twenty minutes in a hot oven. Eat with fruit sauce. Serve immediately. Prune Souffle. Half pound of prunes boiled in a very little water. Remove the pit and chop very fine; beat whites of five eggs, add prunes and half a cup of powdered sugar, put all in buttered pan, and bake in moderate oven about twenty minutes or longer. AVhen cold, put in flat dish and put whipped cream around, flavored with a little wine or eat hot served with cream. Rum Omelette. Beat the yolks of two eggs till thick, add two tablespoons of milk. Have the whites beaten stiff, with a speck of salt; add to the yolks. Heat frying-pan, put in tablespoon of but- ter. Do not burn the butter. Put in the omelet; when it is set fold over. Put in hot platter, send to table, .pour over rum, and set it on fire. Serve with fruit sauce. Apple Snowballs. Boil or steam one cup and one-half of rice until tender. Peel and core six apples, steam or boil until soft, but not break. Wring cheese cloths (one-third of a yard square) out of cold water. Take heaping tablespoon of rice, place in center of cloth, flatten out with the ball of a spoon until you think it will cover the apple; place apple in center, take the corners of cloth in your right hand, and put the cloth containing rice and apple in your left. Press gently the rice until it covers the apple. Tie the corn- ers tightly, put in boiling water and boil ten minutes. The apples must not be too well cooked or they will not shape. Untie the ends, roll back a little, take two ends in each hand, turn carefully on to plate. Serve with lemon sauce. PROGKKSSIVK rooKKKY 93 Plain Bread Pudding. Soak stale bread in skimmed milk until soft, press out the milk and beat the bread fine; add one tablespoon of molasses, one teaspoon of ginger, one-half nutmeg to each quart of bread. Sweeten to taste ^ chop rind of one orange and add, throw over a few currants. Put into a baking-dish holding one quart, strew with drippings or butter. Bake one-half hour slowly. Better cold than hot. English Plum Pudding. Eight eggs, one pound of flour, one ' pound of sugar, one ounce of suet, one pint of milk, half a grated nutmeg, one teaspoon of ground cloves, two teaspoons each oi cinna- mon and allspice, one pound of raisins, one pound of currants, half a pound of chopped citron. Flour the fruit before using. Wet a pudding-cloth in hot water, flour well, put in the pudding, tie loosely. Boil eight hours. Batter Pudding. One quart of milk, one pint of sifted flour, four eggs, one saltspoon of salt; beat the eggs, stir into the milk, and add very gradually into the flour, so that it will not become lumpy; add the salt; beat all well. Fill a well-greased pudding dish two-thirds full, and put into a pot half full of boiling water. It should come only half way up the pudding dieh. Boil one hour and a quarter. If the water boils away add more boiliiiif water. If the water /oy/> boiling, or the kettle is moved, the pudding will be heavy. Batter Pudding No. 2. Six eggs, six tablespoons of flour, one saltspoon of salt and one quart of milk. Follow the same directions as given in the previous recipe. Bird's Nest Pudding. Use the same recipe as for boiled batter 1 Bidding. Peel and core six apples that will cook quickly; lay them in a baking-dish, and iill the cores with sugar and a little cinnamon; cover with the batter, and cook from one-half to three-quarters of an hour in a hot oven. Serve with sauce. 94 PROGRESSIVE COOKERY Bread Pudding. Cut the crust off a stale five-cent loaf of bread ; cut in thin slices; pour milk over the bread, and heat until the bread has soaked up the milk; stir in butter the size of an egg; let stand until cold ; grate in one-fourth of t a nutmeg; add half a tea- spoon of rose water, four well beaten eggs. Boil in a cloth which has been wet in hot water, and sprinkled Avith flour. Put in the pudding and tie loosely so as to allow space to swell. Or, fill a pud- ding mould two-thirds full, and boil one hour, as directed in batter pudding. Banana Pudding. Cut sponge cake in slices, and, in a glass dish, put alternately a layer of cake and a layer of bananas sliced. Make a soft custard, flavor with wine (Sherry, Port or Brandy), and pour over it. Beat the whites of the eggs, add a tablespoon of sugar, and heap over the whole. Apple Pot Pie. Six apples peeled and quartered, and one-half cup of sugar. Make a dough the same as for baking powder biscuit, using one quart and one pint of flour. Roll out one-half of the dough lengthwise; line a high stew-pan to within two inches of the bottom and two inches of the top. Pour in one and one-half cups of water, then the sugar and apples ; add the juice of one-half lemon and a little of the rind. Have the other half of the dough rolled the size of the top of the stew-pan, wet the edges and cover. The two inches at the top are to allow space for the dough to rise. Let it boil one hour. Cut the cover in fourths, remove, dish the apples into a platter, cut the side crust in pieces, lay round the apples, and cover with the top crust. German Pudding. One-half cup of sugar, two and one-half cups of flour, one cup milk, one-half cup of butter, three eggs, one teaspoon of baking powder. Beat sugar and butter to a cream, add yolks, then the stiffly beaten whites, then the milk and flour. Steam three- quarters of an hour. Serve with cream sauce. PfiOGBJSSBIVE rookKKY '.*.> Chiiinplnin Pudding. Butter well a small mould, sprinkle two tablespoons of sugar over butter, then spread a few raisins next slices of 1 tread with the crust removed, then raisins and bread alter- nately until the mould is nearly full. Make a custard mixture of one pint of milk, three eggs', one-half cup of sugar, flavor with lemon. Pour over the bread. Steam tnx'-half hour. Serve with hard sauce. Plain Suet Pudding. One pint of flour, one teaspoon of baking powder, one saltspoon of salt, two ounces of beef suet (four table- spoons when chopped), cold water to make a soft dough. Mix the Hour, baking powder and salt; add the chopped suet and mix it well. Add the cold water gradually to form a soft dough. Grease a mould or several cups, fill to within an inch of the top, and cover with greased paper. Put into a kettle of boiling water, enough to come half way up the mould. Cover the kettle and steam two hours and a half if in a mould, and one hour if in cups. Serve with sauce. A richer pudding may be made by adding a tablespoon more suet, one egg and one-half teaspoon each of spices and fruit, using milk instead of water. Roly Poly. Make a biscuit dough; roll out one-fourth of an inch thick: cover with two cups of stoned cherries, or any fruit preferred. Roll up like jelly rolled cake. Wring out a cloth in hot water, and dredge well with flour. Lay in the roll and fold over the cloth loosely, allowing room to rise, tie both ends, plunge into boiling water. Boil one hour and a half. Serve with molasses sauce. Ginger Suet Pudding. Add to the plain suet pudding one-fourth of a cup of molasses and one-fourth of a tablespoon of ground gin- ger. Serve with lemon sauce. Amber Pudding. One cup of bread crumbs, one-half cup of sugar, three tablespoons of melted butter, two eggs well beaten, four tablespoons of qrange marmalade. Stir all together. Boil in a mould one hour. Serve with snowdrift sauce. 96 PROGRESSIVE COOKERY Graham Flour Pudding: One-half cup of molasses, one-fourth cup of butter, two eggs, one-half cup of milk, one-half teaspoon of soda, one and one-half cups of graham flour sifted, one cup of stoned raisins, one teaspoon each of cinnamon and allspice, one-half tea spoon of cloves and one-half nutmeg. Melt the butter, add to the molasses, then the soda, and beat well. Add the beaten eggs and milk, then the other ingredients, lastly the raisins sprinkled with flour. Boil three hours. Serve with any sauce preferred. Yorkshire Pudding for Roast Beef. Two eggs, one cup of milk, one-half teaspoon of salt, two-thirds of a cup of flour. Beat the eggs creamy, add part of flour, then part of milk, gradually, till all is in; beat ten minutes with Dover beater. Pour off the fat from roast beef; add the pudding. Bake twenty minutes. Pineapple Pudding. Two cups sugar, one-half cup of butter, pineapple (chopped or grated), yolks of six eggs, five tablespoonsful of bread crumbs. Mix butter, sugar and eggs well together, add the pineapple (fresh or canned), then the bread crumbs and juice last. Bake half an hour in a quick oven. Remove. Have a meringue made of the whites, put over the pudding, put back in the oven and brown. Serve hot or cold. Boiled Apple Dumplings. Make baking powder biscuit. Roll out one-half inch thick, cut around the size of a saucer; have your apples peeled and cored, and the core filled with a teaspoon of su- gar, one clove, and a small piece of butter; place them in the center and pinch the edges over the top. Steam two hours, or tie loosely in pieces of cheese cloth and boil one hour. If the apples are soft such as greenings, the time will be less. Serve with a sauce. DESSERTS y ;il Jelly. Make :m orange or lemon jelly, using a tablespoon more of gelatine. Strain into a pitcher. Place a mould in a pan of ice and water. Pour in jelly half an inch deep; when hard, put in candied fruit in a fanciful design cherries cut in halves, and angel- ica t represent leaves. Fasten each piece in place with a few drops of the liquid jelly, and when hard, add jelly to cover the fruit. When this is hard place a small Japanese bowl on the jelly, and fill with ice. Pour the remainder of the jelly between the two moulds, adding it slowly, and dropping in fruit here and there, until the mould is full. When the jelly is all firm remove the ice from bowl and add /"/,->, not hot, water to the bowl, and take it out carefully, without breaking the wall of jelly. Fill the space with Bavarian Cream. Put away to harden. When needed set the mould in warm water for a second, and turn out. Bavarian Cream. One-quarter box of gelatine, one-quarter cup of cold water, one pint of cream, one-third cup of sugar, one teaspoon of vanilla. Soak gelatine in cold water until soft. Chill and whip < ream until you have three pints of the whip. Boil remainder of the cream, or if all is used, one cup of milk with the sugar. When boiling add the soaked gelatine, stir until dissolved. Strain into bowl, add vanilla or lemon. Place bowl in ice and water, stir, and when beginning to thicken, stir in lightly the whipped cream. Orange, Lemon or Wine Jelly. One box of gelatine, one quart of boiling water, one cup of sugar, two oranges, one lemon, a few 97 98 PROGRESSIVE COOKERY cloves, a piece of cinnamon. Cover gelatine with cold water; soak two hours, add cloves, cinnamon, the juice of oranges and one lemon, the rinds cut in small pieces, not grated. Pour over one quart of boiling water, gradually stir until the gelatine is dissolved. Add one cup of wine. For orange or lemon pour over one quart and one cup of boiling water. Strain through four thicknesses of cheese cloth laid over a strainer or sieve, put in a mould set to cool ; it should be amber color. Make the day before using, or let it stand in ice and water until firm. Serve with syllabub cream ; or cut in cubes makes a very pretty effect. Cut oranges in halves, remove the pulp, set in meal to keep in upright position, fill with partly cooled jelly, set away to harden. Cut in quarters and place around jelly when dished, or serve alone without cutting, or take off a small piece of the top of oranges, remove pulp and fill. Fruit Jelly. Soak one ounce of gelatine in water enough to cover, for one hour, or until soft. Pour over one cup of boiling water, stir until dissolved, and strain. Take one quart of fruit juice, add ;i drop or so of Price's fruit coloring to make of a bright color, and stir in the dissolved gelatine. Pour into a fancy mould. Put away in a cool place, or place in ice and water to jelly. Turn out when firm, and pile in the center and around the sides whipped cream. This is very nice. FRUIT JUICE To be used with Fruit Jelly. One box of strawberries or raspberries; hull the strawberries; mash them slightly, then heat and strain. To every cup of juice add three-quarters of a cup of granulated sugar; stir this well, and return to the stove and heat thoroughly. Do not boil, as it destroys color. Put away in jars, as before directed. Snow Pudding: One-half box of gelatine, one-quarter cup of ri;or;|{|->SIVK COOKKkY 99 cold water, one cup of sugar, one cup of boiling water, juice of one lemon, whites of three eggs. Soak the gelatine in cold water one hour, then dissolve in boiling water, add sugar and lemon juice, stir until all is dissolved, strain into a large bowl and set in ice water to cool. Stir occasionally. Beat the whites of eggs to a stiff froth; when the gelatine begins to thicken add beaten whites and beat all together until very light. When nearly stiff pour into a mould. Or beat until stiff enough to hold its shape, and pile lightly in a tall glass dish. Make a boiled custard of the yolks of the eggs, and serve with the pudding. Apple Sno\v. Three large, tart apples, three eggs, one-half cup of powdered sugar. Steam apples (cored and quartered, not pared), then rub through a sieve. Beat the whites of the eggs stiff, add sugar and beat again, add apple and beat until like snow. Serve with boiled custard. Ginger Apples. Make a syrup of four pounds of sugar and one pint of water. Chop four pounds of apples and one-fourth pound of green ginger root fine with three lemons. When the syrup boils add the apples and cook till clear; put into glasses or pots. Apple Dessert. Pare and weigh two pounds of green apples. Cut them in small pieces and drop them into a rich syrup made of one-quarter pound of sugar and one-half cup of water. As soon as the syrup begins to boil add the grated rind and juice of one large or two small lemons. Boil till the apples are a solid mass. Turn out into a wet mould and let get cold. Serve on a dish surrounded with boiled custard. Eat with cream. Baked Apples with Stale Bread. Peel and core apples with a fruit corer. Cut slices of stale bread (without crust) about one- quarter of an inch thick, the size of the apples, spread with butter, place in bake pan. set apple on each. Fill the hole in the applet 100 PROGRESSIVE COOKERY with sugar, drop a piece of butter on each and set in a hot, but not quick, oven. When about half done fill the holes again with sugar and a pinch of cinnamon. Place butter on top as before, and finish the cooking; serve warm. When done they may be glazed with apple jelly and put back in oven for two minutes. Charlotte Russe. Take six round charlotte russe tins or large shallow cups. Line with lady fingers dipped in white of egg; should they be higher than the mould trim them off. Put a pint of cream in a bowl, set in pan containing broken ice and water; whip cream until stiff with a soft wire egg whisk, slowly at first, then increase in swiftness until it is a stiff froth, sweeten with four tablespoons of powdered sugar, one tablespoon of wine, or flavor to taste. Add the whites of two eggs beaten stiff; fold in carefully. Fill your moulds compactly; they must be cold. Let stand five minutes, turn out on six dessert plates, "ornament each with one macaroon and a few can- died cherries around the macaroon, and a rim of syllabub cream around the plates. Charlotte Russe can be made in one mould with the same filling. Line the mould with lady fingers ; ornament with French candies, or color a little of the syllabub cream and orna- ment. Charlotte Russe Filling \vith Gelatine. One-quarter of a box of gelatine, one pint of cream, one-quarter of a cup of cold water, two-thirds of a cup of powdered sugar, one tablespoon of vanilla, one tablespoon of wine, one-quarter of a cup of boiling water. Soak gelatine in cold water until soft. Chill the cream. AVhip cream, and skim off into a granite pan set in ice and water. Sift powdered sugar over the cream, and add vanilla and wine. Dissolve the gela- tine in boiling water, and strain through a fine strainer over whipped cream. Then stir (not beat) rapidly with the bowl of spoon resting on bottom. Turn the pan with left hand while stirring with the right. If it feels lumpy lift the pan from the ice and place in warm water to melt the gelatine. Stir until the gelatine is well mixed with PROGKKSSIVK COOKKKY 101 the cream, and when nearly stiff enough to drop turn it into a mould. Set on ice, and when ready to serve turn out and garnish with jelly, or arrange as directed above. Tfii* jiUiixi may Deserved infancy paper cases. To Whip Cream Syllabub. Place a howl half filled with cream into a pan of broken ice and water. When very cold put a whip churn into cream and keep the cover in place with the left hand. Tip the churn slightly, that the cream may flow out at the bottom. \Vork the dasher with a short stroke up and a hard, pushing stroke down. When the froth appears stir it down once or twice, as the lirst bubbles are too large ; and when the bowl is full of the froth skim it off, pile on a sieve placed over a bowl. Take off the froth only, and do not take it off below the holes in the cylinder. All the (ream will not whip ; a little will be left in the bowl. One pint of cream will make three pints of whipped cream. To Whip Cream Stiff. Whip rich cream as above directed with- out removing froth. In a short time it will be stiff. Keep on ice until required. Cream taken from the milk that has been set over night is too fresh to whip. It must be put on ice for at least sis hours before whipping. Cream Whi/)s. One pint of rich cream, one cup of pale sherry, one lemon, grated rind and juice, half a cup of sugar. Mix in-order given. Add more sugar if desired. .Stir until the sugar is dissolved, then whip it. take off the froth as it rises, and put on a hair sieve. Fill jelly glasses \\ith cream left; put froth on top. Aj>}>lc Charlotte. One-third of a box of gelatine, one-third of a cup of cold water, one-third of a cup of boiling water, one cup of sugar, juice of one lemon, one cup of cooked apple, whites of three eggs. Soak the gelatine in cold water ; pour over the boiling water. Add the sugar, lemon and apple : strain, stir in ice-water until stiff ; 102 PROGRESSIVE COOKEKV add the well-beaten whites. Line a mould with lady fingers or sponge cake, pour in the mixture, and serve a boiled custard, made with yolks of the eggs, as a sauce. Whipped cream may be served if preferred. Make strawberry or raspberry the same as apple charlotte, simply straining the juice instead of cooking. Rich Ice Cream. One quart of cream whipped, one and one-half cups of sugar, and flavoring. Freeze. (Directions for freezing : Layer of ice and rock salt alternately until freezer is full and tin is covered. When the crank turns hard the cream is frozen ; if you wish to pack remove paddle, pack solidly in the same tin, turn off the water, and repack. Cover the freezer with a piece of old carpet.) Pack frozen cream in fancy tins or tin boxes ; if packed in paper boxes put them in tins to keep out the salt. If cream is served in glasses whipped syllabub cream piled on the top, tinted some delicate color, has a very pretty effect. Take strips of old muslin, grease on one side and put around the covers of mould before freezing, to keep out the salt. When cream is partly frozen, firm ripe strawberries or raspberries may be added. Serve sherbets, ice-creams, etc., on dishes that have been cooled in ice-chest. In packing ice-cream pack so that there are no air spaces through the cream. Ice Cream (Southern). One pint of milk, one pint of cream, one tablespoon of flour, one cup of sugar. Heat milk in double boiler, add sugar and a pinch of salt. Blend flour with a little milk perfectly smooth, add to hot milk ; stir well, and cook half an hour or more. Strain, put away in a cold place ; when cold remove scum, add one pint of whipped cream, flavor and freeze. This cream colored pink, and flavored with extract of rose, or green and flavored with pistachio, makes a pleasing variety. Freeze as above. PROGKK IVK COOKERY 103 Banana Ice Cream. Make as for ice-cream, adding mashed strained bananas. Glace Meringue, Soak one tablespoon of gelatine in four table- spoons of cold water one hour. Pour over the soaked gelatine one- half cup of boiling water. Beat until smooth and cold. Then strain this into a quart of cream. Add one tablespoon of vanilla extract and one large cup of granulated sugar. Freeze. AVhen frozen (it will take about fifteen minutes), take out the beater and pack smoothly, being careful to have the top perfectly level. Set away for two hours. When ready, beat the whites of six eggs to a stiff froth, and gradually beat into this two tablespoons of powdered sugar. Turn the cream out on an earthen dish and cover every part with meringue. Brown in hot oven and serve immediately. If the dish is flat put a board under it to keep the heat from the bottom. Prombicre. One quart of milk, one pint of cream, six whole eggs, yolks of three eggs, one and one-half cups of sugar, four table- spoons each of preserved citron, green gages and pineapple cut fine. Make a boiled custard of the milk and cream, and when cold add the fruit, and freeze. Bombe Glace. Serve ice-cream and sherbet in paper boxes. Fill the boxes with two kinds of ice cream and sherbet alternately. After freezing pack the cases in a freezer. Serve on a fancy napkin on ice cream plates. Chocolate Mousse. Whip one quart of cream to a stiff froth with a syllabub churn, placing the bowl in a basin of ice and water. Dissolve one ounce of grated chocolate, add three tablespoons of pow- dered sugar, one tablespoon of boiling water. Stir over a hot fire until smooth, about one minute. Add six tablespoons of whipped cream : when cool add to dish of whipped cream ; now stir in gently one cup of powdered sugar. Tut in a mousse tin. In packing mou>s- have a layer of ice thin and a layer of salt 104 PROGRESSIVE COOKERY thick. Paste a strip of greased muslin around the edge of the covers. Have the mousse well covered with salt and ice, then cover with a piece of carpet ; freeze four hours. Take out carefully, wipe off salt, remove cloth, turn quickly on a cold dish, cut in slices, serve on very cold plates. Mousse tins may be had at any first-class tin store. Serve all frozen puddings, etc., on dishes that have set a while in an ice-chest. Strawberry Mousse. Mash one quart of strawberries, press through a sieve, sweeten with powdered sugar ; stir on ice until very cold. Add one pint of thick cream beaten to a stiff froth. Turn into a mould. Freeze as above directed. Roman Punch. One quart of water, one and one-half cups of sugar, four oranges and one lemon, one-half cup of Jamaica rum. Dissolve sugar in water, grate the rind of one lemon and one orange ; squeeze out the juice of the oranges and lemon, add to the sugar and water and the Jamaica rum. (If you wish to color it pink use a little claret wine). Let it stand one hour, strain and freeze. Another Way. Use the same materials as in the other recipe- Make a syrup of the sugar and water by boiling together three min- utes, cool, add the other ingredients and the white of one egg beaten stiff. Freeze. Serve after entrees or fish. Other frozen punches are made the same way adding other liquors or wines. Pineapple Sherbet. Mix together one pint of pineapple juice, the juice of two lemons. Let this mixture stand for one hour, add one pint of water, one pint of sugar ; strain and freeze. Or the sugar and water may be boiled together for twenty minutes, the strained juice added when cold ; freeze. All ices are made this way. substituting any fruit desired, tea or coffee. Strawberry Sherbet. Is made the same as the above, using mashed strawberries strained in place of pineapple. PROGKKSSIYK C'OOKKKY 105 Nesselrode Pudding. Boil one pint of shelled chestnuts until soft, take off black skin and pound in a mortar to a paste. Boil one pint of sugar, one pint of water. juice from pint can of pineapples twenty minutes : beat the yolks of ten eggs and stir into this syrup. Put saucepan in another of boiling water and beat until it thickens,take off, place in basin of cold water, l>eat for ten minutes. Mix chestnuts with one cup of cream, rub all through a sieve, add one-half pound of French candied fruit and the pineapple cut fine. Mix this with the cooked mixture, add one tablespoon of vanilla extract; four tablespoons of wine, one-half teaspoon of salt. Freeze, repack in mousse tin. (If you can buy almond paste, add to the cream mix- ture.) This is considered tin' fiirxt of frozen puddings. Salted Almonds. Blanch the almonds by pouring boiling water over them : let stand a moment, then throw them into cold water, and rub off the skins. To each cup of nuts allow one tablespoon of melted butter or olive oil. Stir the almonds well in it, let stand an hour, sprinkle with salt, allow one and one-half tablespoons of salt to each cup of nuts. 1'ut into a moderate oven, watch carefully, let them bake, stirring occasionally, until they turn a delicate brown : they should be crisp. Remove from oven, rub off all the salt. Salted Almonds No. 2. Blanch two cupe of almonds. Dissolve one-half cup of salt in one and one-half cups of water. Soak al- monds in this solution over night, wipe, put into a baking-pan, and brown amber color in moderate oven. They must be brittle. Almonds prepared in this way will keep longer than when cooked in oil or butter. If you wish them very salt put in more than a half cup of salt. Boiled Custard. One quart of milk, one cup of sugar, four eggs, pinch of salt. l>eat the eggs, have the milk hot in double boiler, to which sugar has been added, pour the hot milk over beaten eggs, 106 PROGRESSIVE COOKERY return to double boiler, stir until thick. Have a bowl handy. As soon MS custard begins to thicken at bottom and sides turn quickly into a dish. Flavor with one-half teaspoon of any extract preferred or grated rind and juice of one-half lemon. Richer Custard. Yolks of six eggs: make as above directed. Beat whites to a stiff froth, add tablespoon of sifted sugar, and orna- ment the top of cold custard just before serving. Boiled Custard. One cup of milk, one egg, one tablespoon of sugar, one-half teaspoon of flavoring. Scald the milk, beat the egg to a froth, and add the sugar; pour into scalded milk and stir until it thickens. Pour at once into a cold bowl; add flavoring. Serve with rice. ^Moonshine. This dessert combines a pretty appearance with pal- atable flavor, and is a convenient substitute for ice cream. Beat the whites of six eggs in a broad plate to a very stiff froth, then add gradually six tablespoons of powdered sugar (to make it thicker use more sugar up to a pint), beating for not less than thirty minutes, and then beat in about one heaping tablespoon of preserved peaches, cut in tiny bits and set on ice until thoroughly chilled. In serving, pour in each saucer some rich cream sweetened and flavored with extract of vanilla, and on the cream place a liberal portion of the moonshine. This quantity is enough for seven or eight persons. Virginia Caramel Custard. Separate the whites and yolks of five eggs, beat the yolks with a quarter of a pound of sugar, add the well beaten whites, and mix well with a quart of milk. Flavor with rose or almond, and then pour into a buttered mould. Set immedi- ately into a pan of boiling hot water in a moderately hot oven. About half an hour will be required to set it firmly. When nicely browned and puffed up touch the middle with a knife blade; if it cuts as smooth as around the sides it is done. Take care not to 1'KociKKssivK COOKERY 107 overdo. Let custard stand until perfectly cold, turn out gently on a plate, and dust thickly with sugar, place in upper part of hot oven ; the sugar soon melts and browns. Tapioca Blanc Munge. One pint of milk, two-thirds of a cup of fioirl tapioca, one-half cup of sugar. Soak tapioca four hours; put milk in double boiler, add sugar and soaked tapioca, cook ten min- utes. Remove from fire, season, stir in whites of two eggs beaten stiff, with a speck of salt. Pour into a mould that has been wet in cold water; set away to get cold. Turn into a deep glass dish. Serve with cream. Tapioca Cream. Is made by any of the recipes for boiled cus- tard, adding one-fourth of a cup of soaked tapioca boiled in the milk, before adding eggs. In boiled custards if cornstarch is used fewer eggs will be required. Lemon Foam. Four eggs, juice two lemons, rind one-half lemon, four large tablespoons sugar, stir the sugar and yolks of eggs to- gether, put in double boiler, when stiff, remove. Stir in the whites. Serve in glasses. Siberian Cream. One-half package gelatine (Nelson's is the best); one quart of milk. Soak the gelatine in part of the milk; beat the yolks of three eggs with one teacup of sugar; heat the rest of the milk and pour over the soaked gelatine, then mix with the and sugar. Flavor with vanilla and sherry wine to taste; set on the stove and stir until it curdles on the spoon; beat the whites to a froth and pour over the hot mixture and stir them in slightly. Set away in a shallow pan. When cold cut in square blocks resem- bling ice. and serve. Ornngc \vith Claret Wine. Peel six firm oranges, cut them in slices, place a layer in a glass dish, put over each a teaspoon of sugar 108 PROGRESSIVE COOKERY (or more, if preferred,), repeat the same until all is used. Cover with claret wine. Set away in a cool place three or four hours be- fore serving. Apples Cooked in Syrup. Take six apples of medium size, wash, peel and core; be careful not to break; grate rind of one lemon, and squeeze out juice. Have syrup made of one cup of sugar, two cups of water, put in the lemon rind and juice, and then the apples. Cook apples carefully, try with a wisp of a broom, and if perfectly cooked remove to dish; be careful not to break. If syrup is too thick reduce it and strain over apples, and set away to cool. Serve with cream. Apples Another Way. Take four or six apples, wash, peel, quar- ter and core; lay in an earthen pie plate, and sprinkle over each one tablespoon of sugar and one-half teaspoon of lemon juice; add one-half cup of water; baste and bake slowly until brown. Stewed Pie Plant. Make a syrup by boiling one cup of sugar with one cup and one-half of water. Cut two cups of pie plant without taking off the outer skin, in inch pieces, drop in boiling syrup; cook until soft but not broken. AVhen cold, serve. PUDDING SAUCES Brandy Sauce. Two eggs, two tablespoons of sugar, two table- spoons i if lirandy. Beat the yolks ten minutes, add sugar and lrandy. then well beaten whites. Madeira or Rum Sauce. Melt two tablespoons of butter in a saucepan : add one tablespoon of flour, stir until rather yellow, add gradually one pint of water, one cup of sugar and a few drops of caramel sugar; boil gently ten minutes. Stir in one-fourth cup of Madeira wine or rum. Caramel. Melt one cup of sugar in a saucepan, stir until it melts, and is of a dark brown in color. Add one cup of boiling water, boil ten minutes. When cold, bottle. This gives a rich, dark brown color to coffee, custards, etc. Cream Sauce. One egg, one-half cup of sugar, three tablespoons of milk, one-half teaspoon of vanilla. Beat yolks and sugar to- gether, add beaten whites, lastly the hot milk and vanilla. Serve soon as made. Lemon Sauce. Two cups of hot water, one cup sugar, three heaping teaspoons of cornstarch, grated rind and juice of one lemon, one tablespoon of butter. Mix the sugar and cornstarch thoroughly, add to the boiling water. Cook eight or ten minutes, stirring often; add the lemon rind and juice and the butter. Stir until the butter is melted, and serve at once. If the sauce becomes too thick add more hot water. One-half cup of juice of stewed strawberries, apri- cots or any fruit may be used instead of lemon. 109 110 PROGRESSIVE COOKERY Whipped Strawberry Sauce. Whip one pint of cream to a stiff froth, and beat into this about one-half cup of preserved strawber- ries that have been rubbed through a fine sieve; or add one-half cup of strawberry juice. Sweeten with powdered sugar. Hard Sauce. One-quarter of a cup of butter, one cup of pow- dered sugar, one-half teaspoon of lemon or vanilla, or a little nut- meg, teaspoon of water. Hub butter to a cream, add sugar gradually, then the water, then flavor. Pack smoothly in a small dish, and stamp it with a butter mould. Grate over nutmeg. Molasses Sauce. Boil one cup of molasses, add the juice and grated rind of one lemon and one tablespoon of butter. Snowdrift Sauce. One-fourth cup of butter, one cup of sugar, one-half cup boiling water, two tablespoons of wine or brandy, whites of two eggs. Beat the sugar and butter to a cream, then add the boiling water, then the brandy or wine, lastly the well beaten whites. If you wish a yellow sauce, cream the butter and sugar, then add the beaten yolks, and proceed as in above receipt. BREAD Hop Yeast. Boil a handful of hops in three pints of water ten minutes, strain and pour half of it gradually on nine tablespoons of flour, then add the remainder of the water. Add one-half cup of molasses or sugar, one teaspoon of salt. When cool add one cup of liquid yeast or one cake of condensed yeast. Hard Yeast. Take some yeast, make it thick with India meal. Cut out, dry in wind. Put away in bags. One cake will mix four quarts of flour. Potato Yeast. Three good sized potatoes, one cup of flour, one- fourth cup of sugar, two teaspoons of salt, one and a half quarts of boiling water. Peel and grate the potatoes, adding the flour, salt and sugar. Place on the stove, and stir constantly while pouring on the boiling water; the amount of water will depend somewhat n the quality of the potatoes and flour. When nearly cold add one cupful of old yeast or one yeast cake. \VciterBread. Two quarts of sifted flour, one teaspoon of salt, one teaspoon of sugar, one tablespoon of lard or butter, one-quarter of a cake of compressed yeast, dissolved in one-half cup of water, a pint of warm water. Put flour in mixing-bowl (reserving one cup of flour to add at last, if needed). Rub the butter or shortening into the flour. Mix the yeast with the warm water. Pour this liquid mixture into the center of the flour, mixing well with a steel knife. Scrape the dry flour from the sides and bottom of the bowl, bringing the knife up through the dough. When thoroughly mixed 111 112 PIMKJKKSSIVE COOKKKY turn out on a floured bread board; knead half an hour, or till it is smooth and will not adhere to the board. Cover with a cloth and board, let rise to double its bulk, cut down, let rise again, divide into two parts, mould into loaves, let rise until it cracks on top. Bake in hot oven one hour. When baked put on wire dish or sieve, place where the air will circulate round, and thus carry off the gas which has been formed, now no longer needed. Never leave bread in a pan or on a pine table. Milk bread is made the same as water bread, using good milk in- stead of water. It is better for new beginners to make bread in the morning, then they can watch the rising carefully. Rye or graham bread make the same as water bread, omitting the shortening and using two-thirds rye, one-third flour; let rise with- out molding. Raised biscuit are made the same as milk bread, adding more but- ter or shortening; make into biscuit shape or oblong. Melt butter, and spread over the top, put in a rather warm place to rise. Bis- cuit should be allowed more time to rise than bread. Bake in a quick oven. Experience is the best teacher in bread making. There are many other ways of mixing bread. Make a batter first, and then stir in the flour, kneading afterward. Mashing a potato and adding to yeast mixture is good. Sticks. Take some milk bread dough, shape into ballrf about the size of a walnut. Roll out with the palm of the hand to about a foot long. Leave on the board to rise slowly. Put into moderate oven to dry. When the color of crackers, and about as brittle, take up. Eat with soup or coffee. Parker House Rolls. Boil one pint of milk; allow it to get nearly cold, dissolve half a cake of yeast in half cup of warm milk PROGRESSIVE COOKERY 113 Put into a bowl two cups of gifted flour, add one tablespoon of sugar, one teas] MX >n of salt : rub in one tablespoon of butter, one of lard, add gradually the dissolved yeast, then the milk; put this batter to rise in a warm place; when risen add flour, knead and let rise again, cut down, put on a board, roll out lightly, spread over bits of butter, roll up, let rise again. Put on a board, roll out half an inch thick, cut with an oval cutter, fold the dough over, putting a piece of butter between each fold. Put into a biscuit pan, keep in a warm place. If kept in too warm a place the butter will melt. It must rise to double the original size. Bake in rather a hot oven twenty minutes. All of following recipes must be mixed and beaten well. Raised Brown Bread. One pint of yellow meal, one pint of rye meal, one-half cup of yeast, one-half cup of molasses, one-half tea- spoon of salt, one saltspoon of soda, one pint of warm water. Mix irake in a hot oven fifteen minutes. Hominy und Cornmeal Cakes. Two tablespoons of uncooked hominy, one-ball teaspoon of salt, one tablespoon of butter, one cup of boiling water, one scant cup of cornmeal, two tablespoons of sugar, one cup of boiling milk, two eggs, one heaping teaspoon of baking powder. Pour boiling water over hominy, add salt and but- 116 PROGRESSIVE COOKERY ter. Add boiling milk and sugar to cornmeal. When cold add eggs beaten separately, then the baking powder. Bake in gem pans twenty minutes. Corn Cakes. One pint of boiling milk to one cup of Indian meal, a little salt and one egg. Bake quickly in gem pans. Fried Indian Cakes. One cup of Indian meal, one cup of rye meal, one tablespoon of molasses, a little salt, one-quarter spoonful of soda. Mix with cold water as thin as you can drop from a wet spoon into boiling lard. Sponge Corn Cake. One cup of meal, one-half cup of flour, one-half teaspoon of salt, two teaspoons of baking powder, one tea- spoon of melted butter, one tablespoon of sugar or molasses. Mix in order given ; two eggs, one and one-fourth cups of milk. Beat ; add eggs to the milk. Bake in sheets about half an hour and cut in squares. Southern Corn Cake. One cup of white cornmeal, two cups of cooked rice or hominy, three eggs, half a teaspoon of salt, and lump of butter the size of an egg. Pour enough hot milk over the rice or hominy to soften it, and stir until smooth. Pour boiling water over the meal and stir until the meal is swelled but not watery. Add butter and eggs. Beat eggs until light. Add to this the cooked rice or hominy. Beat the ingredients well with a wooden spoon. Add milk enough to make a stiff batter. Bake thirty-five minutes in a round pudding dish. Send to the table in the dish in which it is baked. If preferred add a tablespoon of sugar. PASTRY Puff Paste. One scant pound of butter and one pound of flour; wash the butter in ice water, dry, and put on ice to cool ; sift flour into a cold bowl ; pour ice water with juice of one-half of a lemon into flour, enough 'to make a stiff dough ; put your hands in ice water; pat out the butter into an oblong shape. Dredge marble or board with a littli' flour, put on the dough and dredge slightly ; roll from you gently, with a rolling pin, into a square about one-half of an inch thick : put butter in the center, fold over the sides so that they will lap, fold from the top toward you, roll out very carefully, fold again, set on ice twenty-five minutes, then roll out three times, fold- ing as before, keeping the rough ends toward you ; fold again, set on ice twenty-five minutes, then roll out three times, folding as before, keeping the rough ends toward you ; fold, set on ice twenty minutes, roll again three times ; keep in ice chest until next day. Do not press heavily with the roller ; (mix in cool place.) Puff paste is nicer rolled on marble ; it will keep for a week if desired, covered with a damp cloth. Rough Puff Paste. One pound of flour, two-thirds of a pound of butter, one-half of a teaspoon of baking powder. Sift the flour and baking powder into a cold bowl ; put in the butter, cutting it in with a knife ; mix very stiff with ice water. It will not harm if the pieces of butter are not all mixed. Sprinkle a little flour on the paste board, lay on the dough, and roll gently from you until the paste is about a quarter of an inch thick, if any bits of butter roll out, put them on again. Fold sides toward the middle, the upper 117 118 PROGRESSIVE COOKERY end toward you. Roll from you, and sideways ; do this three times and set in cool place to harden ; roll again three times, and set in cool place until ready to use. Dip your hands in cold water before hand- ling paste ; you may omit baking powder if the paste is to be kept. Paste must be kept cold. Short Pie Crust. One pint of flour, one-fourth of a teaspoon of salt. Mix in enough good, sweet lard until it can be pressed in the hand without breaking. Now mix very stiff with cold water ; roll out one-fourth of an inch thick, spread thickly with bits of butter, and dredge slightly with flour ; fold the sides toward the end toward you. Put in cold place one-half hour. If a richer paste is liked, roll < >ut again, drop more bits of butter over it, and set in cold place. Cheese Biscuits. Take puff or rough puff paste, roll out about one-fourth of an inch thick, spread with grated Parmesan cheese in which a little cayenne has been mixed ; fold as before directed. Roll out again one-fourth of an inch thick, and cut with a very small cutter. Bake in moderately hot oven a light brown ; when baked they should be an inch thick, which they will be if paste is properly made. Serve with soups or black coffee. Cheese Sticks. Are made in the same way as cheese biscuit, rolled thin and cut in narrow strips about a finger long, then laid crisscross, or made in little bundles, tied with one of the strips and baked a light brown. Cheese Sticks No. 2. Four tablespoons of flour, two or three tablespoons of grated cheese, a speck of cayenne, yolk of one egg, one tablespoon of ice water. Mix cheese and cayenne in the flour, beat the yolk, add ice water, and stir into the flour. Put away to cool, then roll out thin, and cut in strips like straws. Make circle of one of the straws as large as a dime, put in a bundle of straws about a finger long. Bake in a rather hot oven. PROGKKSSIVK (OOKKKY 119 Patties. Are made of puff paste, rolled one-half inch thick. Cut witli a large round cutter, then cut half way through center with smaller cutter. Hake light brown in moderate oven ; they should puff three times their size. Remove center cover, take out the inside, fill, and put on cover. Vol au Vent. Roll puff paste one inch thick, cut a round the sixe desired, cut an inner round half way through the paste. Bake in moderately hot oven ; remove, lift the cover, take out some of the renter. Fill with any poulette mixture, or crab warmed in hot but- ter, etc. Return the cover and sejve hot. Tarts. Roll pastry rather thin. Cut part in rounds. With a sharp knife dipped in hot water cut paste in strips about one-half inch wide, wet the edge of the rounds and lay the strips around the outside three times, without cutting the strip. Bake in rather hot oven until puffed and of a light brown color. Fill the center when (Id with sweetmeats, or jelly, or lemon filling. Sliced Apple Pie. Take short crust, cut off a piece the size required for the bottom crust ; cover the bottom of tin plate with this, allowing an inch over ; roll out the upper crust ; have sour apples sliced thin, put a rim of apples around the rim of plate in regular order, then pile in the middle. Sprinkle with four table- spoons of white or brown sugar, juice and rind of one lemon, put one tablespoon of water in the center. (If preferred, grate over nutmeg or sprinkle with cinnamon.) Turn over the edge of crust, wet the rim slightly with cold water, put on the cover, press down carefully, trim, and bake until the pie will move on pie plate. Murlhorough Pie. One cup of stewed apples sifted, add while hot one tablespoon ( .f butter, cool, then add juice and rind of one lemon, one-half cup of sugar, yolks of three eggs, grate in a little nutmeg, add one and one-half cups of cream. Have//// pie plate 120 PROGRESSIVE COOKERY with sides, cover with paste, putting two rims around the edge, add the mixture. Bake until firm in center. When baked and cool cover with meringue made from whites. Meringue. Beat the whites of three eggs in a platter on which a small pinch of salt has been put, beat with a whisk with a long motion, slowly at first then faster until stiff and flaky ; add one- half cup of sifted powdered sugar, sifting and cutting in lightly. Spread lightly over pie and put in a cool oven to set, and brown a little. Tin plates are best for pies. Mince Pie. Two pounds of the round of beef, eight pounds of chopped apples, four pounds of brown sugar, three pounds of suet, four pounds of raisins, four pounds of dried currants, two pounds of chopped citron, two tablespoons of candied orange peel and one of lemon, two Sicily lemons, one quart of brandy, one pint of cider ; two tablespoons of clove, four tablespoons of cin- namon and allspice, a teaspoon of ground mace, two grated nutmegs, one tablespoon of salt. Cook the meat, and chop fine. Mix in the spices, sugar and salt ; pour over half the brandy and part of the prepared fruit ; stir well, and put away until the next day ; then add the chopped apple and suet, and the grated rind and juice of the lemons, chopped candied fruit and the rest of the ingredients. Half a bottle of sherry may be added. Stir well, put in a stone jar, in a cool, dry place, covered tightly ; let it stand for one week. Stir, then season and flavor to taste. Suet and apples must be chopped fine. If you wish a richer pie, add bits of butter, lay on more fruit, and add a tablespoon of brandy before covering the pie. Have all the raisins stoned ; chop half of them. Lemon Pie. Two lemons, two cups of sugar, four eggs, one cup of cream (or one of milk and a tablespoon of butter). Grate the rind; squeeze the juice ; beat the yolks creamy, add sugar and cream, PROGKKS.-IYK COOKKRV 121 then the grated rind and juice of lemons. Bake as directed in Marl- borough pie. Make a meringue of the remaining whites. One Boston cracker rolled and sifted may he added, if desired, to the pie mixture. Banana Pie. Banana pie i^ made by making a custard and mix- ing with the pulp of three bananas pressed through a colander or sieve, and baked in a rich, open pastry crust, and finished with a meringue. Lemon Filling (for Tarts). Juice of six lemons, grated rind of four, one pound of sugar, one-half dozen eggs. Beat eggs light, add sugar and juice, beat all thoroughly together, cook in a dish of hot water to the thickness of honey. Bottle, and keep in a dry place. This quantity will make fifty tarts, and will keep for months. Custard Pie. One pint of milk, four eggs, small pinch of salt, one-half cup of sugar, grating of nutmeg. Beat the eggs, add the sugar, salt and nutmeg. Bake in pie plate with rims of crust till the center is firm. Pie Plant or Rhubarb Pie. Make the same as apple adding three times the sugar, or stew the pie plant and then bake. All fruit pies are made similar to the above receipt. DOUGHNUTS, GRIDDLE CAKES, ETC. Raised Doughnuts. One pint risen milk bread dough, one cup of sugar, two eggs, one tablespoon melted butter, spice to taste, flour enough to roll out. Cut in shape, and let the doughnuts stand until light, and fry in boiling lard. Doughnuts. One pint of flour, one-quarter of a cup of sugar, one-half teaspoon of salt, two teaspoons of baking powder, one salt- spoon of cinnamon, one-half to three-quarters of a cup of milk, one egg, one tablespoon of butter. Rub butter into flour. Mix other ingredients with the flour. Add ^beaten egg to the milk. Take a small portion at a time, roll out one-third of an inch thick, and cut with a ring cutter. Put the scraps with another portion, and roll again. When all are rolled, fry in deep, hot fat. Turn when brown and when done drain on paper, in a colander. Do not pile hot doughnuts on top of each other. Doughnuts. One cup of sugar, one cup of milk, three eggs, two teaspoons of baking powder, butter size of an egg ; add one-half tea- spoon of extract of cinnamon, nutmeg, or lemon juice, five cups of flour. Mix and handle as in above recipe. Crullers. One-quarter cup of butter, one-quarter cup of sugar, one-half nutmeg, one and one-half cups of flour, two eggs, teaspoon of lemon juice. Beat butter to a cream, gradually beat sugar into it, then add well beaten yolks, and nutmeg and lemon, then add whites 122 PROGRESSIVE COOKKKV 123 beaten to stiff froth. Beat in flour, a little at a time. Flour the board well, roll out the dough to the thickness of half an inch. Cut \with jagging iron, twist into different shapes, and fry. Fried Turnovers. Take short pie-crust, roll rather thin, cut in rounds the size of a saucer. Put in the center apple-sauce, or any Mewed fruit, not too juicy. Wet edges with cold water, fold in the middle to make a half circle, pinch carefully, to keep juice from running. Fry in frying basket, in boiling fat. Sprinkle with sugar. Serve in a hot napkin. Russian Turnovers. The Russians and Germans do not cook soup meat t<> shreds. Take one cup of cold chopped soup meat. Season with one-quarter of a clove of garlic, a speck of cayenne, a few drops of lemon juice, a tablespoon of melted butter, one-half teaspoon of salt. Roll out short crust rather thin, cut with large biscuit cutter. Put in the center of rounds one tablespoon of chopped meat. Fold ever as directed above. Bake. Serve with soup. fritter Batter. Yolks of two eggs beaten well, add one-half cup of milk, one saltspoon of salt, one cup of flour, or enough to drop from a tablespoon wet in cold water ; a teaspoon of olive oil may In- added. When ready to use add whites of eggs beaten stiff. Jf used for fruit add a teaspoon of sugar to the batter. If for dams. tripe, or meat, add one teaspoon of lemon juice. This batter will keep in a cool place several days. Egg Plant Fritters. Put whole egg plant into boiling salted water, mixed with one tablespoon of vinegar or lemon juice; cook twenty minutes, or until tender, mash and drain. To one pint of egg plant add one-half cup of flour, two eggs, well beaten, and salt and pepper to taste. Drop from a tablespoon wet in cold water into hot fat. Another \Vay. Cut egg plant in thin slices ; sprinkle over Halt, pile up and let stand one-half hour : drain, dip in fritter batter: fry in hot lard. 124 PROGRESSIVE COOKERY Dresden Fritters. Cut slices of stale bread an inch thick, remove crust, cut with a biscuit cutter, then cut with a smaller cutter about, half an inch from the edge, and one -third through the bread, leaving two-thirds uncut. Take one pint of milk, a little salt, add two beaten eggs ; soak the bread in this, being careful not to break. Remove carefully, sprinkle with dry bread crumbs, dip in egg, then in bread crumbs. Put in a wire basket, and fry in smoking hot fat. Take out the center of the fritters, remove a little of the bread, fill with oysters ; put back the cover. These are very good filled with any preserve or jelly, sprinkling sugar and cinnamon over the top. Fritters may be cooked in deep, hot lard or mustard oil, or in spider with a little hot sweet oil or butter. Apple Fritters. Peel and core three or four apples ; do not break them ; cut in rather thin slices. Sprinkle with sugar, lemon and spice. Dip each slice in fritter batter, and fry in hot fat or sweet oil. Drain and sprinkle with powdered sugar. Clam Fritters. Make clam fritters the same as other fritters, using the clam liquor instead of milk. Vegetables, such as celery, salsify, or parsnips, should be boiled until tender, then drained and cut into small pieces, and stirred into batter. To mix fritter dough without lumps, put flour in bowl, make a hole in the center, add the ingredients, and stir the liquid in gradually. Corn Fritters. Grate two cups of green corn, add to fritter batter. Fry as before directed. Cooked Oatmeal Fritters. One cup of cold, cooked oatmeal, one cup of milk, two eggs, two-thirds of a cup of flour. Mix the oatmeal and milk together. AYhen smooth, put in the flour, and lastly the well-beaten eggs. Drop from a tablespoon which has been PROGRESSIVE COOKKKV 125 dipped into cold water into smoking fat. Serve hot with sugar sprinkled over, or two tablespoons of sugar may be added to the mixture. If the mixture is too thin, they will spread. In that case add a little more flour. Rolled Griddle Cakes. Two eggs, two tablespoons of flour, salt, and milk to make rcnj thin batter. Beat the yolks, add flour, a little milk, then more flour, and so on until flour is used ; add well beaten whites. I'our in hot greased frying pan one tablespoon of the mix- ture, or just enough to cover a small frying pan ; turn quickly, brown and remove. Spread with jelly, roll, and sprinkle with sugar. These are very good for dessert, eaten with sugar and sherry. Griddle Cakes. One pint of flour, one scant pint of sour milk, two eggs, one-half teaspoon of salt, one-half teaspoon of soda. Sift the flour, salt and soda together, add the milk and beat well, then the beaten yolks, lastly the well-beaten whites. Rice Griddle Cakes. Two cups of cold boiled rice or hominy, one teaspoon of sugar, one-half teaspoon of salt, two eggs, two cups of milk. Hour enough to make a thin batter that will run from the mouth of the pitcher in a thick, continuous stream, one teaspoon baking powder. Have the griddle well-heated and greased, make the cakes large, bake brown, turn, and brown the other side, serve with maple syrup. Buckwheat Cakes. Pour one quart of boiling water on one-half (up of fine corn meal ; add one-half teaspoon of salt ; mix well, and when lukewarm add one-half cup of flour, one cup of buckwheat, and one cup of yeast. Stir n~dl. Letriseover night. In the morn- ing stir down and beat. \Vhen risen and ready to bake, add one saltspoon of soda sifted through a fine sieve. Bake same as griddle cakes. Buckwheat cakes, even if not sour, require the addition of soda just before baking ; it makes them light and tender. 126 PROGRESSIVE COOKERY Fried Mushes. Mushes that are left over may be packed in a round mold or in a one-quart measure ; cut in slices (if they are not stiff enough dip in flour), and fry in hot dripping; if made pur- posely for frying, make a little stiffer than for ordinary use. A very attractive and appetizing dish may be made of corned beef hash, with slices of well-browned mush around the edge of the dish. Oatmeal Mush. Put one cup of oatmeal in double boiler with a teaspoon of salt ; pour gradually over a quart of boiling water stir- ring all the time. Cook two hours. Remove the cover once in a while and stir with a fork. Indian Meal Mush. Mix one cup of corn meal with one cup of cold water ; one-half teaspoon of salt. Pour over a pint of boiling water ; cook one hour in double boiler. Graham and rye are made the same. Welsh Rarebit. Heat one teaspoon of butter in a frying pan, put in one-half of a pound of rich moist American cheese, season with saltspoon of salt, one-half teaspoon of pepper, a speck of cayenne, and a saltspoon of mustard. Stir with a wooden spoon until ropy, then stir in one-fourth of a cup of ale. Have slices of nicely toasted bread on hot plates ; pour over the rarebit. Serve immediately. Golden Buck. Make a Welsh rarebit, as before directed, adding to each piece of toast a poached egg. Another Way to Prepare Welsh Rarebit. Toast six slices of bread, cover each with a slice of Swiss cheese one-third of an inch thick, lay in a baking pan, sprinkle with a little pepper, and bake in a hot oven. Serve on hot plates. Cottage Cheese. Take sour milk, not too old, put on the back of the stove and heat, not boil. Pour into an empty, clean salt bug. PROGKKSSIVK COOKKRY 127 hang up and let drain four or five hours. Turn out into a howl, add salt and pepper and moisten with cream. Some like chives finely chopped, sprinkled over the top. Ham Sandwiches a la Parisienne. Between slices of thinly cut white bread spread a mixture of Deviled ham, finely chopped, hard- lx)iled eggs and cream sauce. Stamp out in round, oval, square or oblong shapes. Butter the tops. Sprinkle on one-half the number of sandwiches, finely chopped parsley and hard-boiled yolk of egg rubbed through a sieve, and on the other half parsley and white of egg chopped very fine. Arrange tastefully and serve on small plates. Sandwiches. Cut bread in thin slices, trim off the crust, spread with butter and any chopped meat, nicely seasoned, with salt, pepper and mustard. Lay. another slice on top. Sardines make a good sandwich. Lay a damp cloth over them to keep moist. Chocolate Butter. One cup of butter, one cup of grated sweet chocolate, one teaspoon of cinnamon, one-half cup of sugar. Melt 1 Hitter, put chocolate, sugar and cinnamon together and stir into the hot butter. Wet a bowl in cold water, and pour in, and cover with a greased paper. To be spread on warm biscuit. German Toast. Cut six slices of stale German white bread, one- half inch thick, soak in one cup of milk to which an egg and a pinch of salt have been added. When they have absorbed all they will hold remove carefully, drain, dip in one beaten egg and fry brown on both sides in hot butter or olive oil. A good dessert, served with any kind of sauce. Cracker Brewis. Split the crackers, spread with the butter and cheese mixture. Place in a shallow earthen dish, add milk, one- quarter cup to each whole cracker. Bake until brown. Omit the cheese if preferred. 128 PROGRESSIVE COOKERY Lop Scotch. Cover six pilot crackers with cold water, for about an hour, or until soft. Lay in deep dish, one at a time, sprinkle with a little salt and pepper, and drop bits of butter thickly over them, then another layer of crackers, seasoning, butter, and so on until all are used. Nearly cover with water or milk. Cover and bake until water or milk is absorbed. If too dry when taken from oven, pour over a little hot milk. Beans. New England beans are baked in a brick oven, and baked over night. The results cannot "be the same when baked in a stove oven, as it is impossible to have the oven of an even temperature. Baked Beans. Pick over and wash one quart of pea beans, soak over night in cold water. In the morning put into fresh water, and simmer until soft, but not break. Turn into a colander, and pour cold water over. Put one-half of the beans in pot. Pour hot water over a quarter of a pound of salt pork, part fat and part lean ; scrape the rind. Cut the rind in one-half inch strips. Put into the pot, and then add the rest of the beans, leaving the rind exposed ; cover with hot water. Bake in slow oven nearly all day. (If you like, put one small onion in the bottom of bean pot, or one tablespoon of molasses, or one-half teaspoon of mustard, or all.) Cover the bean pot for the first six hours, then bake without. Add a little hot water from time to time. Samp and Spanish Beans. Soak one pint of beans and one pint of samp over night in separate dishes. In the morning pour off the water from beans, put on to cook in fresh water. Cook samp in another pot. Let both cook for two days, or until nearly soft. Add samp to beans, also one-half pound of salt pork, a grain of pepper and a speck of cayenne. Cook until the pork is tender. Replenish with water when necessary, but not so as to boil over. There should not be too much liquid when done. They are better the oftener they are warmed. JELLIES AND PRESERVES Heat jelly glasses and jars in a pan of hot water, or put water in a Kaking pan and place in a moderate oven. This allows the air to escape and prevents the jars from breaking when the hot liquid is poured in. Fill the jars to overflowing. Run a silver knife down the sides, so that the air hubbies will arise to the surface. Screw on the covers, wash the jars off, and when cold screw on the cover again as tiirlit as possible. Put on the top of jellies pieces of paper cut to fit the glasses, dipped in brandy. Cover neatly with rounds of soft white paper, cut larger than the glass, dipped in the white of egg, and press in little folds neatly around the edges, or dip the paper in a flour and water mixture. 'Hi row apples and pears into cold water to keep them from dis- coloring. Keep preserves and jellies in a dry, cool place. In heating the sugar, be careful not to brown it. Parboil lemons to take out the bitter taste. Yellow Tomato Preserves. Six pounds of skinned tomatoes, eight coffee cups of sugar, two coffee cups of water, one-half cup of green ginger after it is sliced, three lemons. Put water, sugar and ginger on to boil together for a few moments. Parboil lemons to take out the bitter, then slice them thin, then add with tomatoes, pouring off tin- water from the latter. Cook all slowly two or more 129 130 PROGRESSIVE COOKERY hours. This will fill three quart jars. Prepare the ginger before- hand, as it is very tedious. Green ginger can be procured in China- town, and will keep fresh a long time in a cool place. Put away as directed. Preserved Pears. Peal, quarter and core Bartlett Pears ; throw them in cold water. Fill quart preserve jars neatly with the fruit. Put on the stove wash boiler, cover the bottom with a frame made of slats. Set in the jars ; fill the boiler half way up the jars with cold water. Have ready syrup allowing one pound to a quart of water, cook ten min- utes, cool and fill up the jars ; cover the boiler tightly to keep in the stean ; when the water boils cook twenty minutes or till the fruit is tender. Remove and cover as directed. For twelve jars use nine quarts of water and five pounds of sugar. Preserved Pears. Six firm pears of medium size, two Sicily lemons, two cups of sugar, and one quart of water. Wash, peel and halve the pears, remove the core, throw them into cold water to keep them from discoloring. Parboil the lemons to take out the bitter. Then slice thin. Mix the sugar and water together, and let boil up once. Add the pears and lemon ; cook until soft ; be careful not to break the pears. Put your jars in a pan of hot water. Take out the pears carefully, and place in the hot jars. Strain the syrup and fill the jars to overflowing. Run a silver knife down the sides, so that the air bubbles will rise to the surface. Screw on the covers tight, wash the jars off, and when cold screw the covers again as tight as possible. Put away in a dry, cool place. The same directions may be used for apricots, or any large fruit. Preserved Cherries. Stone the cherries, measure a bowl of fruit and the same quantity of sugar. Put in preserving kettle over night a layer of cherries and a layer of sugar. In the morning cook slowly without stirring until the liquid is clear and the fruit soft. PROGRESSIVE COOKKKY 181 Pits of cherries may be added if the flavor is desired. All other small fruit may be cooked in the same way. Another way is to make a syrup of one pound of granulated sugar and two-thirds of a pound of brown sugar. When the syrup has cooked twenty-five minutes and been well skimmed, drop in the fruit and when soft remove into hot jars ; reduce the syrup and pour over. Preserved Tomatoes. Seven pounds of tomatoes, five and one- quarter pounds of sugar, one ounce of green ginger-root, two lemons. Prick each tomato before cooking to let out the air. Pour scalding water over the ginger, let it stand fifteen minutes, scrape off the skin, break into pieces, and wash again. Put the sugar into the kettle with just enough water to dissolve it (about one cup of water to each pound of sugar). When dissolved add the ginger, sliced lemon and tomatoes. Cook until tender (about half an hour), then take out the tomatoes and cook syrup one and one-half hours, or until thick. Canned Peaches. Four pounds of peaches, one pound of sugar, one quart of water. Scald and pare peaches, and cover with cold water. Put sugar and water in porcelain-lined kettle, place on the fire, and stir until dissolved. Drain peaches, and put them into the syrup, bring quickly to a boil, then stand where they will scarcely bubble, until tender. Fill the hot tin cans quickly, and seal at once. Orange Marmalade. Take six oranges, boil till tender, in three quarts of water till soft, remove the oranges. To the water add five pounds of sugar, boil three-fourths of an hour. Slice the oranges thin, add to the syrup, boil three-fourths hours. Add the juice of one lemon after taking off the stove. Grape Jelly. Stem the grapes and mash them in the preserving kettle. Boil freely for twenty minutes, then strain. To every pint 132 PROGRESSIVE COOKEKV of juice allow one pound of sugar. Boil juice five minutes, skim- ming carefully. Warm sugar and add gradually, stirring until thoroughly melted ; boil ten minutes. Select grapes that are firm, and not quite ripe. Spiced Grape. Seven pounds of grapes, five pounds of sugar, one ounce (scant) of cloves, and the same of cinnamon, one-half pint of vinegar. Pulp the grapes, keeping the skins. Put pulp in kettle, and cook until the seeds separate. Then strain and add to the skins, with sugar, spice and vinegar. Boil fifteen min- utes, stirring all the time. Currant Jelly. Buy currants when they first come into the mar- ket. Wash and dry ; do not stem. Squeeze through a strong bag, or through, four thicknesses of cheesecloth. Strain again through a hair sieve. To every quart of juice add two-thirds of a quart of sugar. Boil the juice hard for fifteen minutes ; skim ; add heated sugar, boil up once. Skim, and fill jelly glasses. Cover when cold. Apple Jelly. Gravenstein apples make the clearest jelly. Wash, halve and quarter four pounds of apples, leaving in the core. Put in preserving kettle, cover with cold water ; add two Sicily lemons chopped. Cook the apples until soft, but not so they will break. Strain through the sieve, press gently to get out the juice, but not the pulp ; strain again through four thicknesses of cheese cloth. To every quart of juice allow two-thirds of a quart of sugar. Return juice to preserving kettle, boil hard twenty minutes, skim, then add hot granulated sugar, boil five minutes, skim. Dip a cold cup in the kettle and if it jellies on the outside it is ready to put in glasses. If jelly cooks too long it will become syrup. rix.i:i->siVK rooKKKY 133 Strawberry or Raspberry Preserves. To every pound of straw- berries add two-thirds pounds of granulated sugar. Pick over berries. Throw the sugar over the berries ; let them stand over night. Put'the berries and sugar into preserving kettle and cook till the berries are soft, being careful to" keep them whole ; skim, thin out carefully, drain them. Cook the syrup till thick. Put the berries into hot jars, cover with the sugar. If you wish them a bright red, color the syrup with fruit coloring. Preserved Blackberries. Pound of blackberries. To each pound of berries allow one half pound of sugar. Cook one hour slowly, skim carefully. Blackberries cooked whole are hard. PICKLES Scald cucumbers in vinegar and water, half of each. Then put them in cold water for half an hour ; lay them in a jar. put on red and black pepper, spices, ginger, horse-radish and mustard seeds ; then pour over boiling vinegar. In twenty-four hours your pickles will be ready for use. Pickled Cucumbers. Take twenty-five pounds of cucumbers from the salt, soak twenty-four hours in clear water ; then pour the following ingredients over them scalding hot : One pound of white mustard seed, one pound of black mustard seed, one pound of cel- ery seed, one-half pound of whole allspice, one-half pound of black pepper, three pounds of brown sugar, six pounds of white onions, one pound of red peppers, two pounds of green peppers (seeds taken out), two ounces of coreander seed, one ounce of cardamum seed, one ounce of turmeric, one ounce of cinnamon, one ounce of garlic, one ounce of horse-radish, one ounce of cloves, one bottle of English mustard, three gallons of cider vinegar. Pickled Peaches. Pare the peaches, put one whole clove into each peach ; pack them into a stone jar ; make a syrup of three pounds of sugar, one pint of good cider vinegar to every eight pounds of fruit, one tablespoon of whole allspice, and two tablespoons of cassia buds. Boil the syrup and spices about ten minutes, and pour over the fruit ; put a plate on top of the fruit to hold it down. Let this stand twenty-four hours ; then pour off the syrup into the pre- serving kettle; when it boils put in the fruit and boil it until it begins to be soft then put the fruit in your glass jars, and fill up with the syrup. 134 PROGRESSIVE (DOKKKV l:;."i Pickled Onions. Four quarts small onions. Put them in boil- ing water ami remove the skins ; cover with salt and let stand twenty- four hours. Remove from the salts, pour over cold water and drain. Boil two quarts of vinegar with whole spices and a pound of sugar, pour over the onions and bottle when cold. Piccalilli. To one peck green tomatoes, sliced, add a pint of salt ; >ver with water, and let them stand twelve hours ; squeeze them out, and let them remain in fresh water a few hours. Take ten or twelve preen peppers and seven large onions, put them with the tomatoes and chop all fine ; put them in a porcelain kettle with weak vinegar, and let them boil or scald awhile; draw off the vinegar and take some good old cider vinegar, a pint of white mustard seed, and some grated horseradish, add two tablespoons of brown sugar, mace, cinnamon, cloves, to your taste. Boil up and pour over all and put away in jars. Grape Catsup. Take five pounds of grapes, boil and run through a colander ; add two and one-half pounds of sugar, one pint of vine- irar. one tablespoon each of cinnamon, cloves, allspice, pepper and one-half tablespoon of salt ; boil until the catsup is a little thick. Plum Catsup. Seven pounds of plums, four pounds of sugar, one quart of vinegar, one tablespoon each of cinnamon, allspice, mustard, ginger, one-half tablespoon cloves, salt ; cook plums a little then put through a colander ; add other ingredients, and boil slowly three hours. Tomato Catsup. Twelve large, firm, ripe tomatoes, six green peppers, four onions, one-half cup brown sugar, two cups sharp vinegar, one tablespoon of cloves, two tablespoons each of cinnamon and allspice, one teaspoon of black pepper, one-half cup of salt. Cut and stew tomatoes, pepper and onions until soft, then strain and rub through a hair sieve; add the other ingredients and the vinegar. 136 PROGRESSIVE COOKERY Cook slowly four or five hours ; remove from stove ; when cold if water rises on the top they have not been cooked long enough. Cook again and bottle. Add more vinegar and seasoning while cooking, if desired. Green Tomato Sweet Pickle. One fruit basket of green tomatoes, slice medium thickness, sprinkle with one teacup of salt, and drain for twenty-four hours on sieve or colander. Boil in two quarts of water to one of vinegar for twenty-five minutes ; drain again. Add six very large sliced onions, two pounds brown sugar, one-half pound white mustard seed, two even tablespoons each of allspice, cloves, ginger, mustard, cinnamon, one-half tablespoon of cayenne pepper, and three quarts of vinegar. Boil for twenty minutes. FIG PICKI,KS Seven pounds of figs, one pint of vinegar, five pounds sugar, one tablespoonful whole cloves, one stick of cinnamon, a small piece of ginger root and two lemons sliced ; boil all together five or ten min- utes ; prick the figs, and add in portions to boiling syrup; cook fifteen minutes ; strain the figs out, fill the jars. Continue thus till all the figs are cooked. Pour over the rest of the syrup. Sweet Pickled Watermelon. Remove the skin from the rind of a small watermelon. Cut in inch cubes. Put into water and cook till tender ; remove and spread to cool. To five pounds of sugar add one pint of vinegar ; boil up once. Tie up in cheese cloth whole cloves, cinnamon, ginger root ; add to the syrup. Put in the water- melon rind, cook till transparent. BEVERAGES Filtered Coffee. Heat coffee, and grind it very fine. Put in the filterer, and place the coffee-pot in a saucepan of boiling water on the back of stove. For one cup of coffee add one cup of boil- ing water. Cover, and let stand five minutes. Then add another cup of water. Continue adding boiling water every two minutes till four cups have been used. Coffee. One tablespoon of coffee for the coffee-pot, and one table- spoon for each person, for one cup of coffee, or allow one cup of coffee to every quart of water. Let it soak over night. In the morning set on the stove, and let it just come to a boil. Remove and let settle. Coffee ( with Egg). One cup of finely ground coffee and one egg mixed well together with two tablespoons of cold water. Pour over one quart of boiling water ; let boil five minutes. To make good tea and coffee the -H'titcr itmxt be boiling, not aim ////'////. To make coffee for picnics, festivals, etc., put in flannel bags, pour boiling water on, and let boil ten minutes. This is by fat the most satis- factory way of preparing for large gatherings. I!lack coffee is made twice as strong as other coffee. Vienna coffee is the addition of whipped cream piled on each cup. Cafe au I. ait is half coffee and half hot milk. Coffee and cognac is brandy or cognac poured over lumps of suirar; set on fire ; when it stops burning add one teaspoon to each cup of black coffee. A pinch of soda added to coffee when it is cooked takes away the acidity. 137 138 PROGRESSIVE COOKERY How to Serve Coffee, etc. Cream, cube sugar and scalded milk are essential to good breakfast and lunch coffee. The milk should be hot. Boiled milk gives an unpleasant flavor. Put sugar, cream, and milk in the cup before pouring in the coffee. No milk or cream for dinner parties. Tea. Allow one teaspoon to the teapot, and one for each person. Put tea in earthen teapot, and pour boiling water over ; let stand in hot place a few moments. Put sugar and cream in the cup, and then pour over tea. Iced Tea. Fill a glass with chipped ice ; lay on the ice three or four lumps of sugar ; squeeze over this the juice of half a lemon. then pour over the mixture freshly made hot tea. Less lemon juice may be used, or more sugar added, as preferred. Tea a la Russe. Russian tea is made on the table by the hostess. Three heaping tablespoons of black tea, pour over boiling water enough to cover ; let it infuse for a short time. Then add boiling water as needed. Into each tumbler squeeze a little lemon juice, add a slice of lemon, and sweeten ; pour over the tea. The old Russian style is to serve with rum. Spanish Chocolate. Two ounces of chocolate to a pint of milk, and one teaspoon of cinnamon. Break the chocolate into a tin saucepan, with two tablespoons of water ; set on a slow fire ; stir until melted. Heat the milk in another pan, and when hot turn into the chocolate little by little, working well with a moudliere or a Dover beater. Cook six minutes, and serve with whipped cream piled on each cup. Cocoa Shells. One cup of cocoa shells, three pints of cold water. Pour the water over them ; soak over night. Boil in the same water one-half hour. Cocoa shells are wholesome and inexpensive, and are better when the nut is broken in with them. rnoKKKY 139 Eggnog. Beat the yolk of one egg, add one teaspoon of sugar, beat again, and add a teaspoon of brandy and one cup of milk. Beat the white of the egg and pile on the top. Grate over a little nutmeg. Punch. Put one teaspoon of black tea in a bowl with one clove, a small piece of cinnamon, and a lemon cut in small pieces ; pour over this one quart of boiling water. Put one-half of a bottle of brandy in an earthen bowl, and add over half a cup of sugar. Set on fire ; when it stops burning, add to the tea mixture. Have a lump of ice in punch bowl, and add the strained punch. Another Way. Grate the rind of one lemon and two oranges, the yellow only, on a piece of sugar, put in a bowl with pint of cold water to dissolve it, add two gills of pineapple syrup, a pint of claret, one pint of Catawba, Sauterne, or Rhine wine, one pint of Cham- pagne, and a gill of brandy ; sweeten to taste, strain, and put on ice for some time before serving. Currant Ice Water. Press the juice from ripe currants, strain, add one-half pound of sugar to every pint of juice. The sugar may be dissolved either by stirring it in the juice in a saucepan over the fire, or by putting it in bottles, setting them over the fire in a sauce- pan of cold water, allowing them to become gradually heated to a boiling point. When cold, cork, seal, and put in a cool, dry pla< <. Mix with ice water fora beverage. The juiceof other acid fruits may be preserved in a like manner. Raspberry Vinegar. Raspberry vinegaror shrub. Cover berries with vinegar and soak over night. Drain off or squeeze out the juice, to every pint of which add one pound of sugar. Let it simmer about fifteen minutes. When cool, bottle. CANDIES Huyler's White Fondant. Two and one-half cups of granulated sugar, one and one-half cups of cold water. Boil to 246 After the mixture begins to boil wash down the sides with a brush to prevent graining, but do not stir ; wet the brush in cold water. For tough cream add one-quarter of a teaspoon ful of cream tartar ; pour out mixture and work to a cream ; then put away covered tight for three . days. Huyler's Coffee Fondant. One-half pound of coffee, one and one-half cups of water, two and one-half pounds of A sugar. Put coffee and water into a dish, steep until ready to boil ; remove at once, strain, add sugar, and boil to 245, as directed above. Cream for Candy. Two cups of sugar, one small cup of water : boil fifteen minutes without stirring. Try, and if drops come off quickly, boil a moment, then try again, and if the drops come slow and thick, and after the last a short, thick end remains, the point is nearly reached ; the next dip will leave a long, floating hair. Pour into a bowl, and when just warm beat until white and creamy and thick ; then you can work in your hands. Put in a tumbler and cover with an oiled paper. Pop Corn Candy. . One pint of molasses, one-half pint of white sugar, butter the size of an egg, level teaspoon of sugar, four quarts of pop corn. Boil until when dropped in cold water it is brittle. Flour a board and pour the mixture over it. Pile the pop corn on the top and press down. When nearly cold crease into squares. 140 PROGRESSIVE rooKKKY 141 Baby Cream. Four cups granulated sugar, one cup of water, fresh butter size of an egg. Cream Peppermints. Make a syrup of one-half of a pint of^ water, ten ounces of granulated sugar. Boil to 230 degrees. Add one-half of a teaspoon of cream of tartar. If not stiff enough, add powdered sugar. Color pink and flavor with wintergreen if wished. Drop on marble or into forms. Fruit Bonbons. Take some big strawberries, ripe but firm, and hull them. Then mix two cupfuls of granulated sugar with a little less than one cupful of cold water. Put the mixture on a hot fire and let it boil hard, without stirring, until a spoonful dropped into cold water crystallizes to the brittle point immediately. Now take it off the fire and pour into a bowl previously warmed in the oven. Dip the strawberries, one by one, into this hot solution as quickly as possible, fishing them out with forks and laying them on greased tin pans. The briefest sort of an immersion will be sufficient to give each berry the desired coating of sugar candy. Finally, set the pans on the ice in the refrigerator, and as soon as the fruit is cold it will be ready to eat. Malaga grapes and nuts as well may be treated in the same way. Cream for French Candies. Four cups of granulated sugar. Pour over the sugar one cup of boiling water ; stir till dissolved; add two tablespoons of glucose; boil. When dropped in cold water, a ball ran be made. Pour out; beat till thick. Put on a marble slab and work till creamy. MEANING OF TERMS USED IN COOKING A la, au, aux, Dressed in a certain style. A la Poulette, Meat or fish, etc., warmed in white sauce, with yolks of eggs added. An Beurre roux, With browned butter. Bisque, A shell-fish soup. Croustade, Or oyster loaf.. Cut off the end of a German loaf of bread, remove the inside, fill in with hot oysters, put on the end or cover. Chervil, Sweet parsley used in French salad. En Coquille, Served in shells. "71 Papillate, In papers. Glaze, Stock of preserves boiled down to a thin paste. Jardiniere, A mixed preparation of vegetables stewed in stock and garnished with green peas. Maitre d'hotel, Master of the hotel. Menu, Bill of fare. Truffles, A fungus growing in clusters a few inches underground, having an agreeable perfume. Dogs are trained to find them. They cannot be cultivated. Used in seasoning and garniture. Puree, A soup rubbed through a French sieve. Quenelles, A forcemeat powdered before cooking. Vol-au-vent, A large round of puff paste, with the centre round filled with oysters, French hash, etc. 142 PROGRESSIVE COOKERY Ho Rour, Butter and flour blended together in different ways. Angelica, A plant preserved and made into candy. Tarragon, An herb, the leaves of which are added to vinegar, called tarragon vinegar. An lu'rli having a perfume like cloves, used in seasoning. A s-Oirub with small, tender stalks, having the flavor of onions. Chopped and used in salads. P eggs." etc. Page 76, OYSTER SALAD, 1st line, instead "One-third cup," read "one nip or more." Page 81, OLD TIME SPONGE CAKE, 6th line, instead of "flour" read " fold in the well-beaten whites." Page 83, COCOAXUT CAKE, 6th line, after "corn starch" omit "and soda." Page 115, BISCUIT, 3d line, instead of the word "flour" read "butter and lard." K NOX'S SPARKLING Gelatine THE PUREST MADE THE ONLY GELATINE endorsed and used by the Scientific Cooking De- partment at the Boston Pure Food and Health Exposition RECEIVED MEDAL of Superiority over all Brands, Domestic and Foreign, at the American Institute Fair, New York It is the QUICKEST DISSOLVING Gelatine made and the only Gelatine with no odor or taste. Your Grocer should keep it for every Grocer who wants .... PURE GOODS has it or can get it. CHARLES B. KNOX Manufacturer Johnstown, N. Y. INDEX BREAD Brown Boiled, 113 Brown Steamed, 113 Brown Raised, 113 Biscuit, 115 Biscuit Egg, 115 Biscuit, Maryland, 114 Corncake, 116 Corn cake Southern, 116 Corncake Sponge, 116 Corncake scalded, 114 Graham Puffs, 114 Hominy and Corn Meal Cakes, 116 Indian Cakes Fried, 116 Lemon Sauce, 115 Muffins Rye, 114 Pop Overs, 114 Raised Waffles, 115 Rolls Parker House, 112 Sticks, 112 Water Bread, 111 Yeast Hard, 111 Yeast Hop, 111 Yeast Potato, 111 BEVERAGES Coffee, 137 Coffee with egg, 137 Coffee, Filtered, 137 Coffee, How to Serve, 137 Cocoa Shells, 138 Currant Ice Water, 139 Eggnog, 139 Punch, 139 Raspberry Vinegar, 139 Spanish Chocolate, 138 Tea, 138 Tea, Iced, 138 Tea, a la Russe, 138 CAKES Apple, 87 Banana, 87 Baba au Rhum, 81 Baking Powders, 80 Brandy Snap, 85 Chocolate, 81 Citron, 82 Cocoanut, 83 Coffee, 86 Cup, 82 Cream, 90 Cream for Cream Cakes, 90 Directions for Making, 78 Dorcas, 84 Dutch Apple, 88 Diamond Sponge, 81 Filling for, 84 Frosting Chocolate, 90 " No. 1, 89 " Old Time, No. 2, 89 Gold, 86 Huckleberry, 89 Ice Cream, 83 . Icing Boiled, 89 Icing, Cold Water, 89 Icing, Chocolate No. 1, 89 Icing, Chocolate No. 2, 90 Lady Fingers or Sponge Drops, 80 Measure or Fourth, 85 Molasses Ginger Bread, 87 Molasses Ginger Cakes, 87 Nut, 87 Old Time Sponge, 81 Orange, Lemon or Pineapple, 88 Porcupine, 83 Pound, 84 Princess or Angel, 85 Quick, 82 Rock, 86 Sally Lunn, 89 Sponge, 80 Silver, 86 Strawberry Short, 88 Sunshine, 85 To Prepare Lemons, Oranges or Pine- apples for Layer Cakes, 88 Venetian, 87 Wafers Walnut, 86 Wafers Lemon, 82 146 INDEX 147 Weddinir, 84 White, 84 CANDIES Baby Cream, 141 Cream for, 140 Cream for French Candies, 141 Fondant Huyler's White, 140 Fondant Huyler's Coffee, 140 Fruit Bonbons, 141 Peppermints Cream, 141 Pop Corn, 140 DOUGHNUTS, GRIDDLK CAKES, KTC Beans, 128 Beans, Baked, 128 Beans Samp and Spanish, 128 Buckwheat Cakes, 125 Cottage Cheese, 126 Chocolate Butter, 127 Cracker Brewis, 127 Crullers, 122 Doughnuts, 122 Doughnuts, Raised, 122 Fritter Batter. 123 Fritters Apple, 124 Fritters Clam, 124 Fritters Corn, 124 Fritters Cooked Oatmeal, 124 Fritters Dresden, 124 Fritters Egg Plant, 123 German Toast, 127 Golden Buck, 126 Griddle Cakes, 125 Ham Sandwiches a la Parisienne, 127 Lop Scotch, 128 Mush Fried, 126 Mush Indian Meal, 126 Mush Oatmeal, 126 Rice Griddle Cakes, 125 Rolled Griddle Cakes, 125 Sandwiches, i_'7 Turnovers Fried, 123 Turnovers, Russian, 123 Welsh Rarebit, 126 DESSERTS Apple Charlotte, 101 Apples Cooked in Syrup, 108 Apples Another Way, 108 Apple Dessert, 99 Apple Snow, 99 Baked Apples with Stale Bread, 99 Bavarian Cream, 97 Bombe Glace, 103 Charlotte Russe, 100 Charlotte Russe Filling with Gelatine, 100 Cream Whips, 101 Custard Boiled, 105, 106 Custard Richer. 106 Custard Virginia Caramel, 106 Fruit Juices, 98 <;iaee Meringue, ii'.: (iiiiL'i-r API Ice Cream Banana, 103 Ice Cream Rich, 102 Ice Cream Southern, 102 Ice Cream Fruit. 98 Ice Cream Royal, 97 Jelly Orange, Lemon or Wine, '.(7 Lemon Foam, 107 Moonshine, 106 Mousse Chocolate, 103 Mousse Strawberry, 104 Nesselrode Pudding, 105 Orange with Claret Wine, 107 Prombiere, 103 Roman Punch, 104 Salted Almonds, 105 Salted Almonds, No. 2, 105 Sherbet Pineapple, 104 Sherbet Strawberry, 104 Siberian Cream, 107 Snow Pudding, 98 Stewed Pie Plant, 108 Tapioca Blanc Mange, 107 Tapioca Cream, 107 To Whip Cream Syllabub, 101 To Whip Cream Stiff, 101 Boos A la Duchese, 34 A la Patti, 34 Egg Nests on Toast, 35 Hard Boiled, 34 Omelette, 34 Omelette, French, 35 Soft Boiled, 34 Stuffed, 35 ENTBEKS Aspeeof Fillets of Chicken, 57 Aspic Jelly, 58 Baked Bell Peppers, 51 Baked Macaroni, 62 Baked Oysters, 58 Barbecued Ham, 67 Beefsteak and Sweetbreads, 56 Brains, 57 Brown Gravy and Sweetbreads, 5tJ. Calf's Head a la Turk, 67 Cheese Fondu, 54 Creme Frtte, 66 Crouquettes Chicken, 64. Crouquettes Rice, 54 Croustades of Asparagus, 61 Crouxtades of Rice, 60 Cutlets a la Main tenon, 55 Cutlets, Lobster, 55 ( 'urried Oysters, 60 Devilled Crab, 65 Kscalloped Calves' Brains, 67 Fancy Roast (Oysters), 59 Fillet of Chicken, 63 Fried Oysters, 58 Frieasse of Chicken, 67 Frogs I-egs a la Cream, 65 Gallatinof Chicken, 63 Glaze. 64 Honolulu Curry, 67 Kidney Stew with Sweetbreads, til) Liles aux Kmoules, 66 148 l.NUKX Lobster a la Newburp, 57 Macaroni, 02 Macaroni and Tomatoes, 62 Macaroni Italian Style, 61 Oysters and Bacon, 59 Oysters en Beurre Nbir, 69 Oysters en Coquille, 59 Oysters a la Poulette, 58 Peppers a laEspagnol, 61 Pigeon or Quail au D61iee, 57 Poached Eggs and Mushrooms, 61 Quenelles, 65 Rissoles or Ceciles, 66 Scalloped Chicken, 64 Shrimps, 66 Smothered Chicken, 64 Sweetbreads, 55 Sweetbreads a la Marengo, 56 Sweetbreads, Larded, 56 Timballs of Chicken, 63 Timballs of Salmon, 62 FISH A la Cream, 30 A la Normandie, 28 A la Russe, 31 Baked Fish, 32 Baked with Oil and Tomatoes, 29 Breaded Turbans of Flounders, 2H Broiled Salt Fish, 33 Clam Chowder, 32 Cooked Fresh Herbs, 29 Dry Stuffing for Fish, 32 Fish Chowder, 29, 32 Fish Cooked with Oysters, 29 Fish en Papillote, 29 Fried Fish, 30 Hash Salt Fish, 33 Oyster Forcemeat, 30 Pompano en Papillote, 31 Salmon Pudding, 32 Salt Fish Balls, 33 Shell Fish, 31 Stuffed Smelts, 30 JELLIES AND PRESERVES Apple Jelly, 132 Canned Peaches, 131 Currant Jelly, 132 Grape Jelly, 131 Orange Marmalade, 131 Preserved Blackberries, 133 Preserved Cherries, 130 Preserved Pears, 77, 130 Preserved Tomatoes, 131 Spiced Grape, 132 Strawberry or Raspberry Preserves, 133 Yellow Tomato Preserves, 12U Meaning of Terms used in Cooking, 142, 143. MEATS A Bad Habit, 36 Beef Tea, 41 Boiled Chicken. 42, 43 Boiled Ham. 42 Boiled Leg of Mutton, 42 Boiled Leg of Mutton a la Francaise, 42 Braizing, 37 Broiling, 40 Broiled Liver, 45 Broiling in Paper, 41 Broiled Venison Steaks, 40 Brown .Beef Stew, 44 Chestnut Stuffing, 39 Cold Veal, 38 Corned Beef, 43 Cottage Pie, 44 Drippings, 44 Dumplings for Stews, 45 Fillet of Mutton Chops, 41 Fried Liver, 45 Game, 39 Gravy, 39 Gravy for Roast Meat, 37 Hamburg Steak, 45 Hash, 43 Hashed Corn Beef, 43 Hash a la Francaise, 43 How to Wash Meat, 36 How to Dress Poultry, 38 Liver au Lit, 45 Maitre d' Hotel Butter, 40 Minced Meat on Toast, 44 Mutton Chops or Veal Cutlets Breaded, 41 Roast Fowl, 38 Roasting Meats, 37 Saddle of Venison, Larded, 39 Sauteing or Pan Frying, 41 Scalloped Mutton, 44 Stuffing, 39 Veal, 37 Venison, 40 PASTRY Banana Pie, 121 Cheese Biscuits, 118 Cheese Sticks, 118 Cheese Sticks, No. 2, 118 Custard Pie, 121 Lemon Pie, 120 Lemon Filling (for tarts), 121 Marlborouph Pie, 119 Meringue, 120 Mince Pie, 120 Patties 119 Pie Plant, or Rhubarb Pie, 121 Puff Paste, 117 Rough Puff Paste, 117 Short Pie Crust, 118 Sliced Apple Pie, 119 Tarts, 119 Vol au Vent, 119 Green Tomato Sweet Pickled, 130 Grape Catsup, 1:15 Pickled Cucumbers, 134 Pickled Peaches, 134 Pickled Onions, 135 Piccalilli, 135 IMiKX 149 Plum Catsup, 135 Sweet Fig Pickles, 136 Sweet Pickled Watermelon. Tomato Catsup. 1 '',<'< PUDDINCS Amber, 95 Apple Pot Pie, 94 Apple Snowballs, 92 Banana, 94 Batter, :>:', Hatter No. 2,93 Bird's-Nest, 93 Boiled Apple Dumplings, :i Bread, 94 champlain, '.i.~> Chantilly, 91 English Plum, 93 German, '.4 Cinder Suet, 95 (irnham Flour, % Pineapple, 96 Plain Hread, 93 Plain Suet, 95 Prune Souffle, 92 Roly Poly, '.r, Rum Omelette 92 Snow Halls, HI Vanilla SoiitHe, 92 Yorkshire Puddiim for Roast Jieef. W Prj)inN<; s VUCES Brandy, Itf.i Caramel, 109 Cream, 109 Hard, 110 I-einon, 109 Madeira or Rum, 109 Molasses, 110 Snowdrift, 110 Whipped Strawberry, 110 SAUCES Anchovy and Shrimp, 4* Bechamel or Whit.-. I.; Bechamel, Yellow, I'.' Bernaise, 49 Bread Sauce for Game, 48 Brown, I'.i Brown Mushroom, 47 Celery, 47 Cream Mushroom, 47 Currant Jelly, 48 Drawn Butter, If. -.47 Hollandaise. 46 Madeira or Port Wine, 1* Oyster. 17 Plquante,48 Robert. 47 Spanish, iv !'> Tomato, 17 S U i KS WITH (til. Boiled Dressing. ::: French Dressing, :>1 (ireen Salad Pressing, 52 Mayonnaise Dressing, 52 Remoullde, 51 Sauce et Garniture, ,'rj Sauce Tartare, ~>t SOUPS Baked Crackers, L'I, Baked Crackers with Clieesi Bisque of Clams. 22 Bisque of Crab, 25 Black Bean, 24 Bouquet, 20 Cardinal, 26 Celery, -Jt; Cheese Canopees, 2t! claret, 25 Clearing for Consomme or Bouillon, 17 Consomme or White Soup Stock, 17 Cream of Lettuce, 22 Cream of Rice, 22 Crouton for Soup. 25 Crouton Souffle, 26 Dark Meat Stock, 17 (iuinbo, 21 Italian, 20 Julienne, 18 Lentil, 19 Lobster Bisque, 23 Macaroni and Vermicelli, IK Meat, 17 Meat Glaze, 20 Mixed Vegetable, 19 Mock Bisque, 25 Mock Turtle, 20 Mullagatawney or Pepper Pot. ."J Noodles for Soup, 19 Okra Gumbo, 27 Ox Tail, ->0 Potage a la Reine. 21 Puree of <;r.-en Peas, etc., 21 Puree of Spinach, 21 I! ice. Tapioca and Barley, 18 Royal Custard. 1* tout Pea. 19 Tomato, 18 Velvet, 24 VEGKTABLEH A Southern Dish, fi9 AsparagD- As|iarnKUs Salad, 77 Artichokes. 74 Baked Canlillo-.v Baked Tomatoes, 73 Beets, 7J Boiled Onions, 7:i Boiled K ice. 75 Clllihllfe. 71 Carrots. Turnips, 72 Chicken Salad, 75 F.gg Plant. 7 1 Fried Bananas. 71 150 INDEX Fried Cucumbers, 74 French Potato in Brown Butter, 71 Green Peas, 71 Lettuce, 73 Lettuce Salad, 75 Lobster Salads, 76 Mint Sauce for Lamb, 70 Mushrooms, Stewed, 74 Onions, Baked, 73 Oyster Salad, 76 Potato Boats, 68 Potato Cakes, 70 Potato Souffle, 70 Potato Salad, 75 Potatoes, Creamed, 68 Potatoes, Boiled, 70 Potatoes with Bacon, 69 Potatoes, Escallope, 69 Potatoes au Gratin, 69 Potatoes Maitre d'Hotel, 68 Potatoes Mashed, 70 Potatoes, Lyonnaise, 68 Potatoes, Rice, 70 Potatoes, Saratoga, 71 Potatoes, Scalloped, 69 Rice a la Carolina, 74 Spinach, 73 String Beans, 72 Shrimp or Crab Salad, 77 Succotash, 72 Stewed Cucumbers, 74 Tomatoes, 74 Tomato Salad, 75 FOR COOKIN6 A Camp Fire Is Good ^ A Wood or Coal Stove Is Better ~~^* But a 6AS STOVE Is Best GAS COOKING ^^SBSl^k GAS WATER STOVES ^gBJ HEATERS ASBESTOS ^TjWfc^SBI UGAS CLOTHES GAS GRATES j f 06 M DRYERS First Cost of Gas Cooking Stove is Moderate Running: Expense- $2.00 to $4.00 per Month LIGHT OB. y~"~ STOVE DEPARTMENT 16 POST STREET ^iUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUf? LOLA MONTEZ GREME Arouses the skin to action, prevents wrinkles, feeds the impoverished skin and muscles. Without its use, presently the tissues shrink and the skin loses its youthful plumpness and becomes furrowed with the wrinkles of lire's devastating waste, pre- vents the skin from becoming tanned, freckled or rough by exposure to the weather. One application of the Skin Food acts like a charm. At the moun- tains or seaside it is indispensable. Price 75 cents. Sold everywhere or sent on receipt of price by mail. HOW CAN YOU TOLERATE Freckles, Pimples, Blackheads, Yellow or Muddy Skin, Moth, Wrinkles or any form of facial disfigure- ments when MRS. NETTIE HARRISON guarantees to cure you? Don't consider your case a hopeless one. In addition to this I offer you one treatment free at my office any time you call. Bring your physician along if you desire and get his opinion. I will give each caller this week a box of my SKIN FOOD LOLA MONTEZ CREME free as a test. Mrs. Nettie Harrison, America's Beauty Doctor 26 Geary St., San Francisco, Cal. Mrs. Nettie Harrison Removes Superfluous Hair by the Electric Needle, Guaranteed Permanently Have a very complete Printing Plant Employing Sixty-four People Six Large Cylinder Presses Of latest design Do our own Binding Employing Fourteen People Eight Job Presses Finest in the World Sao FraQCi&CO PriQtiQg Co. JAS. A. PARISER, MANAGER 411 MARKET STREET Lachman Building We print the " Californian Illustrated Magazine " The Largest Sheet of Paper Ever printed on the Coast Employ our own staff of Artists Make our own Engravings Work Cheaply But do no cheap work It Pays to Buy the Best of Goods, Especially Flour m n C/l DRIFTED 1 u SNOW FLOUR The Acknowledged Leader of Pacific Coast Flours SPERRY FLOUR COMPANY. 134 California Street. Dr. Price's Cream Baking Powder. COSMOS CLUB, SAN FRANCISCO, CAL. February ist, 1892. I am using Dr. Price's Cream Baking Powder be- cause I consider it superior to any other brand on the market. It is a quick and a certain worker and gives us entire satisfaction. CHAS. RANDALL, Steward of the Cosmos Club. SUTTER CLUB, SACRAMENTO, CAL. April xoth, 1892. I am using Dr. Price's Cream Baking Powder and consider it one of the purest, strongest and most economical of the high class powders. I have made the usual grocer's tests for impur- ites and find it free from them and altogether whole- some. By comparison I find the leavening power is greater and it will therefore do more work for the money than any other powder I have used. Respectfully yours, H, LUDDEN, Steward Sutter Club. THE PALACE, ) " OCCIDENTAL, f San Francisco. " BALDWIN, J THE PORTLAND at Portland, Ore. THE RANIER at Seattle, Wash. all use POWDER. Home 1221 O'FARRELL STREET, SAN FRANCISCO, CAL. Library, Employment Bureau, Del Sarte and Elocution Classes, Free to members of the Home. Concerts and Entertainments are given on the Fourth Tuesday Evening of each month, at 8 o'clock, free. Sewing, Training, Dressmaking and Cooking Classes, free, Saturday, 10 A. M. Branch: 514 HOWARD STREET LUNCH SERVED EVERY DAY Millinery, Dressmaking, Sewing and Training Classes. Praise "and Social Meeting Thursday Evening. Ube Mine of tbe Elite UNEXCELLED FOR BOUQUET, DELICACY, DRYNESS USED AT ALL Banquets, Dinners, Parties The only California Champagne produced by Fermentation in the bottles, the same as all High Grade French Brands. FINE OLD TABLE HIKE? Zmfandel Claret, Riesling, Hock, Burgundy, Sherries, Ports and Brandies, CHATEAU d'ORI/E ANS. The highest grade Claret made in America. CABERNET BIyEND. The richest and finest of Table Clarets. O. V. CHABUS. Possessed of all the delicate pungency of its French Counter- part. O. V. SATJTERNE. With the exact character and Seve of the Imported Sauterne. Chateau d'Orleans and O. V. Chablis sold only in glass. ARPAD HARASZTHY & Co. GROWERS AND DEALERS 53O Washington Street SAN FRANCISCO, CAL. Toboggai) Brai)d SyrOp . . Absolutely Pure The above Maple Syrup obtained the only award at the last MECHANICS FAIR. Prof. Rising, State Analyist, vouches for its purity, and $1000.00 reward is offered for any impuri- ties found in the syrup. Is the Pripcc ooOf w w Is Sparkling, natural. Pure Its richness in NATURAL Carbonic Acid Gas; its Delicious, Clean and 1'nre Refresh- ing Taste; its Sparkling Sharpness and its readiness to Assimilate with white and red wine, champagne, brandy and whiskey, renders it the most Perfect of Table Waters A Tonic to tin- Weak. Heath to Indiires- i tion. A. Sure Care for Dynpepd*. A Health- V fill Hesera^.- 1'ure Natural I.MS. Bffer- < ' A NATA SOLA LKMONAUR is the Perfection vesces like Champagne. of Luxurious Drink. G. H. T. JACKSON, LESSEE WJBNDBLL EASTON GKO. W. FBINK GEO. EASTON President Vice-President Secretary Easton, Eldridge & Co. REAL ESTATE AGENTS AND AUCTIONEERS HOUSE AND INSURANCE BROKERS OFFICE AND SALESROOM 638 MARKET STREET Opposite Palace Hotel SAN FRANCISCO, GAL. Regular Auction Sale Day, Tuesday . . Came I line For the improvement and preservation of the Complexion. The only reliable article. .'. Sanctioned by the medical profession as absolute!}?- free from in- jurious ingredients. ..... For sale Agreeable, Effective By All Drugget? 1843 THE BEST COA\PAfiY 1892 The Best Company is the Company that does the Most Good The Mutual Life Insurance Co, OF NEW YORK A. McCURDY, President Since its organization in 1843, up to January 1st, 1892, has received in premiums... ............ $418.834.675 And has returned to Its members ................................................ J23 447 859 Nearly 78 per cent of the whole amount of premiums received. It now holds in trust for its Policy-holders upwards of ..................... 165)000,000 Cash assets, securely invested, to carry out faithfully all its contracts. The above it a wonderful stewardship, as shown by sworn statements made to the Insurance departments of the several States. This Company's New Dixtribution Policy is the most Liberal ever issued by any Life Insurance Company _ . _ . _ . MUTUAL LIFE CONSOLS o o o The Consol Policy recently announced by the Mutual Life Insurance Company of New York combines more adTantages, with fewer restrictions, than any Invest- ment insurance contract ever offered. It consolidates Insurance, Endowment, Investment, Annual Income. No other company offers this policy. Apply to Company's Authorized Agents for details. A. B. FORBES General Agent for Pacific Coast 4-O1 CALIFORNIA STREET SAN FRANCISCO, CAL. & CO. Wlarebouse 401 & 403 Sansome St. Cor. Sacramento 5t. 3&n Francisco, Keep a Full Line of All Kinds of Printing and Wrapping Papers Miss Kate Plunk:ett= Feip&le Employment Bureau 424 Sutter Street, Between Stockton and Powell, San Francisco, Cal. The Best of Female Help Furnished on Short Notice Special Attention Paid to Country Or