Division of Agricultural Sciences UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA '''<'hi*«Q CALIFORNIA AGRICULTURAL Experiment Station Extension Service MANUAL 34 Price: 25?! Contents The Author H. M. Butterfield is Agricul- turist Emeritus, Agricultural Ex- tension Service, Berkeley. JANUARY, 1964 This manual replaces Manual 13, Amateur Rose Culture in California. PAGE THE HYBRIDS AND THEIR PROGENY ... I ALL-AMERICA AWARDS 5 SELECT VARIETIES ADAPTED TO CLIMATE . . 6 PLANTING 8 IRRIGATING 10 SOIL CONDITION AND FERTILIZING .... II WEED CONTROL 14 PROPAGATION 14 INSECT PESTS 1 8 DISEASES 22 THE SPRAY AND DUST PROGRAM .... 25 PRUNING 28 EXHIBITION BLOOMS 3 1 SOME POPULAR ROSE VARIETIES DESCRIBED BY TYPE, GROWTH HABITS, COLOR AND FRAGRANCE 34 REFERENCES 44 This manual is one of a series published by ihc University of California Division of Agricultural Sciences, and is sold for a charge which is based upon returning only a portion of the production cost. By this means it is possible to make available publications which, due to relatively high cost of production, or limited audience, would otherwise be beyond the scope of the Division's publish- ing program. OSE CULTURE FOR THE HOME GARDENER H. M. BUTTERFIELD he wild rose was the first rose described as growing in California. Spanish set- ders, who saw it along the trail from San Diego to San Francisco in 1769, called it the Castilian rose — probably in memory of the pink rose they had left in Spain (Rosa damascena var. trigintape- tala). Later, they imported the Castilian rose from the old country and planted it in mission and rancho gardens, and in their cemeteries. Eighty years later, settlers described two roses growing in California, the same pink Castilian and a white variety growing at Mission San Jose. The latter was probably either the single White Cherokee or the Lamarque, both intro- duced in Europe in the early part of the nineteenth century. In 1859 nurserymen brought to San Francisco such popular roses as Austrian Copper and White Banksia, the former introduced in Europe at the end of the sixteenth century, the latter, in the early nineteenth. Among many other varieties brought in were Gloire des Rosomanes (Ragged Robin), Cloth of Gold (Chro- matella), Gold of Ophir, Niphetos, and Fortune's Yellow. Many of these early nineteenth-century European roses still grow in old California gardens. By 1856, rose culture in the state had grown so rapidly that Louis Prevost, a nurseryman at San Jose, listed some 20,000 rose plants for sale. By 1858, a San Francisco nurseryman, William C. Walker, grew between 400 and 500 rose varieties. THE HYBRIDS AND THEIR PROGENY Iose growers are interested primarily in 'the many rose hybrids and their prog- W^r&P eny. Certain fanciers, however, are inter- ested only in rose species, such as the still popular Banksia, Austrian Copper, Rosa hugonis, and R. wichuvaiana. Commer- cial growers are also interested in the wild stocks that have provided R. multi- JL1BKAR* UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA DAVIS flora and R. odorata — the Chinese tea rose — or in hybrids between species, such as R. manetti. At one time the hybrid perpetual, tea, and noisette were highly popular. Inter- est in the multiflora, the moss, and the pernettiana has declined, and hybrids in these groups are now seldom grown. Hybrid perpetuals. This class was originated in 1835 by crossing the old Damask perpetual with the Bourbon rose to secure a vigorous race. The cross is usually well represented by the variety Frau Karl Druschki, occasionally by Paul Neyron and Ulrich Brunner, and by American Beauty. Tea roses. Named for their tea scent, many roses of this group had a relatively weak habit of growth, and tended to have weak stems. Among the teas are Cecile Brunner (climbing form), one of the most popular of the polyantha roses. Lady Hillingdon, Marechal Niel, and the various Cochet roses. Noisette. Noted for its vigorous climbing habit and ease of culture, this hybrid required little pruning. Cloth of Gold, Gold of Ophir (Ophirie), La- marque, and William Allen Richard- son, representative of this class, are occasionally seen today in old gardens. Multiflora group. This group in- cludes the polyantha and some of the ramblers. Cecile Brunner, Baby Ram- bler, and Yellow Rambler are old vari- Red Ripples, a velvety, vivid red bush rose of the floribunda type. eties in this class. All varieties of the multiflora group are characterized by small flowers borne in clusters. Con- siderable publicity has been given to Rosa multiflora as a hedge plant in states with summer rainfall. Most rose specialists agree that this rose cannot be expected to grow well in most parts of California without irrigation, and few gardeners would be interested in its small flowers. Furthermore, the plant makes a high, rounded mound, and will not produce a narrow, compact hedge. The rose is deciduous — also a disadvantage where an evergreen hedge is planned. Polyantha roses. These produce very small flowers, often borne in clusters. Cecile Brunner, in climbing form, and Etoile Luisante, in bush, illus- trate this group very well. Floribunda group. Certain roses formerly listed as hybrid teas or as hybrid polyanthas are found in this group. Included are the large-flowering polyanthas, such as Rosenelfe, and the low, compact-growing hybrid teas, such as Snowbird and World's Fair, which have flowers up to perhaps 4 inches in diameter, in a wide range of colors. Some of the newer varieties among the floribundas, such as Golden Slippers, Sarabande, Gold Cup, and Jiminy Crick- ets, have become very popular. Moss rose. The moss-like glands covering the sepals give this rose its name. The flower is particularly attrac- tive in the bud stage, but not in full bloom. Pernettiana group. This group resulted from a cross between Austrian Copper and one of the hybrid perpetu- als, and includes Juliet and Mme. Edouard Herriot. Hybrid teas. These roses, developed mosdy in the last fifty years, have almost entirely replaced the tea roses. They were originated by crossing the tea roses with the hybrid perpetuals. Charlotte Armstrong is a fine example of this type. Tropicana is a 1963 introduction. Some Summer Sunshine is a canary yellow hybrid tea bush rose. hybrid teas are also grown as hedge plants. These need ample water in dry climates. Certain briar characteristics, such as colors of old gold and flame red, have been introduced in the hybrid teas from the pernettiana group. Hybrid tea roses have also been used in some of the crosses. The intense copper in some of our modern hybrid teas is inherited from the Austrian briar. The long blooming period of hybrid teas makes them espe- cially valuable for sprays and color effect. Single roses. There is still some in- terest in the Irish single roses, such as Irish Elegance, and the Cherokee roses, such as Pink Cherokee. Fortune's Yel- low, a miscellaneous rose, is thought by some to be a hybrid between the Chero- kee and the Banksia. In California, Fortune's Yellow is known both as Beauty of Glazenwood and as San Rafael. One of the best climbing singles is Dainty Bess. Ragged Robin, of the Bourbon group, is still a popular rose for planting around orchards, but to thrive in ;i dry climate it needs added water. The crimson stamens of this single, pink climber, Dainty Bess, make it a striking and popular variety. Bush roses and climbers. Some of the best varieties of these modern roses are listed in the table on pages 34-43. Many of the popular bush roses are also grown as standard, or tree, roses for use in formal gardens or where space is limited. Many of the most popular hybrid tea roses have been developed from bush roses by mutation. Fairy, or miniature, roses. These belong to the species Rosa chinensis var. minima, or possibly a recent derivative. Some of today's miniatures probably are descendants of this earlier species. Avail- able evidence does not make clear what the type name is for the miniatures. ALL-AMERICA AWARDS he list below shows the All-America awards for 1954-1964. Roses in this list are those considered by 16 judges, from throughout the United States, to be the best introductions for the year. YEAR VARIETY INTRODUCED BY: YEAR VARIETY INTRODUCED BY: I964 Granada Howards of Hemet 1959 Ivory Fashion Conard & Pyle Saratoga Jackson & Perkins Starfirc Germains 1963 Royal Highness Conard & Pyle 1958 Fusilier Jackson & Perkins Tropicana Jackson & Perkins Gold Cup Jackson & Perkins I962 Christian Dior Conard & Pyle White Knight Conard & Pyle Golden Slippers Petersen & Dering 1 'J 57 Golden Showers Germains John S. Armstrong Armstrongs White Bouquet Jackson & Perkins King's Ransom Jackson & Perkins 1956 Circus Armstrongs 1 96 1 Duet Conard & Pyle 1955 Jiminy Crickets Jackson & Perkins Pink Parfait Armstrongs Queen Elizabeth Germains i960 Fire King Conard & Pyle Tiffany Howards of Hemet Garden Party Armstrongs 1954 Lilibet Howard & Smith Sarabande Conard & Pyle Mojave Armstrongs Taffeta, an All-America selec- tion for 1948, is admired for its apricot shades and excellent, glossy leaves. Floradora, an orange-red and cream bush rose, is also available as a climber. SELECT VARIETIES ADAPTED TO CLIMATE alifornia's widely varying climate makes it difficult to recommend any specific rose variety for statewide plant- ing. Fortunately, many varieties seem to do well in any climate. The state may be loosely divided into six climatic zones, all of which overlap somewhat, so that no hard and fast limits can be set. Beach. Exposed to ocean from San Diego to the state's northern boundary. Averages 325 days per year above freez- ing. Mean summer temperatures under 70° F; winter mean, 44° to 48° F. Coastal plain. Lies just back of beach area. Averages 250 to 325 days }>er year above freezing. Summer tem- j^eratures as high as 75° F; winter mean, 40° to 45° F. Growth of roses is affected by cooling influence of ocean, but air is less damp than in beach /.one. Transition. Lies between coastal plain and hot inland zone. Normal growing season averages 200 to 275 days per year. Mean winter temperature, 65° F; mean summer temperatures range from 75° to 80° F. Inland. A long, hot valley extending from Shasta County south into Kern County. Averages about 225 or more days above freezing. Summer tempera- tures are often 100° F or higher. Desert. An inland zone, with an average of 250 or more days per year above freezing. Mean summer tempera- ture, about 90° F. Mean winter tem- perature may be as high as 65° F, but nights are cold. Mountain. High elevations, with heavy freezing in winter, and a chance of lrost in almost any month of the year. A short growing season of 100 to 200 days above freezing. Rose canes may be killed back unless a very hardy vari- ety is planted, such as some of the Rosa rugosa hybrids. Number of Petals and Climatic Conditions The average number of petals per blossom is a varietal characteristic — for example, the Lowell Thomas variety averages only 15 to 18 petals, while Peace averages 50 to 65. The number of petals of a particular variety has a bear- ing on how well that variety will bloom under various climatic conditions. Where the growing season is cool and roses are slow to open, only those with relatively few petals are well adapted. Some roses with more petals may do well in the hottest part of summer, and some of the popular roses in the cooler coastal districts may be satisfactory further inland early or late in the season when the prevailing weather is cool. In general, those roses with 15 to 25 petals open rapidly, and those with from 25 to 35 open medium rapidly. Roses with 35 to 40 petals need more heat in order to open quickly, and are therefore better adapted to a generally warm climate or to the warmer months in a generally cool climate. Roses with 40 to 60 or more petals are usually slow to open, and need a warm growing season. Such roses are well suited to the interior areas where summers are warm to hot. The higher mountain areas will probably have some warm weather in summer, but winters may be cold, and frosts fre- quent. In these areas, only hardy roses can survive, regardless of petal numbers. Roses that seem to do well almost every- where usually have from 25 or 30 to about 40 petals. Roses with 15 to 24 Petals: Suited to Coastal Areas Autumn Fandango Fashion Fred Edmunds Kathcrine T. Marshall Mme. Cccile Brunncr Ophelia and forms of Picture Saturnia Sutter's Gold Sweet Sixteen Taffeta Talisman Vogue Roses with 35 to 50 or More Petals: Suited to Warm to Hot Areas Applause Candy Stripe Chief Seattle Chrysler Debonair Fred Howard Horace McFarland Memoriam Mirandy Peace Red Ripples Sincera Suspense Roses with 25 to 35 Petals: Suited to Many Areas Where Summers Are Not Very Hot Buccaneer Charlotte Armstrong Circus and Circus Parade Duet Etoile de Hollande First Love Floradora Forty-Niner Golden Emblem Grande Duchesse Charlotte Helen Traubel Junior Miss Mme. Henri Guillot Nocturne Ophelia and forms of Peace Picture Show Girl Signora Tickled Pink Traviata PLANTING limate and soil. Plant roses either in full sun or where a reasonable amount of sun reaches them during the day. Roses grown in shade are susceptible to mildew. In the hot interior valleys the flowers will probably bloom faster than those grown in a cool climate, and some protection from the afternoon sun may be desirable. Frost is not likely to damage roses in most parts of California although some protection may be required in the high mountains. Unseasonable frost at time of new growth could, of course, cause injury. A well-drained, fertile loam soil is best for roses. It should not contain excessive amounts of alkali salts or other harmful chemicals, such as boron. Time to plant. From mid- January on into February is the best time to plant roses in California — or for as long as healthy, dormant (leaf- less) bushes can be purchased. Bushes planted as early as December have more trouble with dieback than do those planted later. Grades of nursery plants. Many nurseries sell roses according to grade: No. 1 (large), No. \y 2 (medium), No. 2 (small). The amount of growth in each grade varies somewhat with the vigor of a particular variety. Vigorous varieties in No. 1 grade usually have two 18-inch canes; in No. \y 2 , two 14- inch canes; in No. 2, one strong cane or two 10-inch canes. Weaker varieties should have three canes in No. 1 grade; two 12-inch in No. 1 l / 2 ; one strong cane or two 10-inch in No. 2. Some vigorous roses, such as Dorothy Perkins and I liawatha, may have four 24-inch canes in the No. 1 grade. I [ybrid perpetual roses and other very vigorous types may have three canes 20 inches long in No. 1 grade. Weak vari- eties in this and similar classes may have only 16-inch canes in No. 1 grade, 12- inch in No. \y 2 , and 10-inch in No. 2. Polyanthas should have four 10-inch canes in No. 1 grade, three 8-inch in No. 1 Y 2 , and two 6-inch in No. 2. Climbers in No. 1 grade usually have three canes 24 inches long; in No. \ l / 2 , two 18-inch canes; in No. 2, one strong cane or two 12-inch canes. Containers. Bare-root plants are sold in the nurseries from December until new growth pushes out. After new growth appears, the nurseryman usually pots the unsold plants, often trimming back the roots to fit the plant into the container. For plant- ing in January and February, a No. 1 grade bare-root plant has no superior. Later in the year you will probably have to buy roses in containers. Such plants rarely equal No. 1 bare-root plants sold from December to early Feb- ruary. Small rose plants are often sold in cartons in supermarkets and variety stores. Such plants should prove satis- factory for their grade unless they are held too long before being planted. Those of No. 1 grade are usually supe- rior to No. V/ 2 or No. 2 when sold at the normal season. Examine the plants at time of purchase to be sure that they are in good condition. Condition of nursery plants. Nur- serymen attempt to keep their rose bushes in good condition, ready for planting on delivery. Bushes are some- times coated with wax to prevent exces- sive drying, and are usually shipped while they are dormant, with the bare roots snugly wrapped in moist sphag- num moss. It is important that the bush be dormant and the tissues plump at time of planting. If the tissues are severely dried out, the bark will be shriveled. Occasionally, through no fault of the nurseryman, a bush dries out before planting. In such a bush, growth may be slow, or may not start at all without special treatment. Either soak the roots in water or, better still, cover the plant with moist soil for several days — even for a week or more — until the tissues have taken up the normal amount of moisture. Bushes with bare roots should be set out well in advance of the appearance of new growth. Depth of planting. Too-deep plant- ing results in weak lateral growth. (Eastern growers often plant roses very deep to keep the canes above the bud union from being killed in freezing weather, but this is not necessary in California.) Soil should not cover the stem more than 2 inches above the bud union, which should be about even with the surface of the ground after the soil is settled. The best new canes will de- velop close to the bud union if the bush is not planted too deep. Measure depth after irrigation, when the soil has settled. Supporting the bush. Tie all stand- ard or tree roses to stakes so that the canes will not break in a strong wind. Support must also be provided for climb- ing roses — a wall, lattice, or fence, depending on your preference and on local conditions. Transplanting. To transplant a rose bush or set out one that has been balled or kept in a can until after growth has started, be sure that the soil around the roots, or in the can or ball, is moder- ately damp so that it will not crumble and expose the roots. Prune back and thin out the top to counteract any loss of roots. If the weather is hot, protect the plant from sunburn for a few days with burlap or some other covering. This will help the bush get a good start in the new location. Replacing declining plants. With proper care, a good rose bush may be expected to produce satisfactory flowers for about 15 years or longer. In time, however, the bush may decline, making replacement necessary. Replacement may also be desirable for a change of Firm the soil around the stem at plant- ing so that the bush will stand as deep as it stood in the nursery. Until the bush has become well estab- lished, leave a basin around the plant for irrigation water. **^^^^SC = ^^ymm interest in the rose garden. New and better rose varieties are constantly being introduced, many of them considered superior to those grown 25 or 30 years ago. Some are also more resistant to powdery mildew (p. 23) than are the older ones. When declining plants are removed, do not replace them until the cause of decline is known. In addition to aging, decline may be caused by oak root fungus, excessive alkali, or other prob lems that require soil treatment before replanting is safe. Poor growth of canes even when no pests or diseases are present may indicate a soil problem. IRRIGATING oses cannot grow in a dry soil. They Xgneed a moderate amount of soil mois- ^ture throughout their root zone. Type of irrigation. Water may be applied in furrows between rows, in basins around each plant, or by over- head sprinkling. Furrow irrigation is often the most economical method if the land is reason- ably level. On very sloping ground, run the furrows at right angles to the slope — a moderate drop of 4 to 6 inches in 100 feet for clay or loam, 10 to 12 inches in 100 feet for sandy soils. Before the bush becomes well estab- lished, leave a basin around the plant for irrigation water. If the soil takes water readily, the basin will not be needed after the plant is established, but if the soil is heavy, the basin must be perma- nent. Overhead sprinkling should be done early enough in the day so that the foli- age dries quickly. To insure that water penetrates the soil to a uniform depth, set the sprinkler heads so that water will overlap by half the diameter of the circle made by each sprinkler. Frequency of irrigation. Sandy soils do not retain any large amount of available water for very long, and must be irrigated once every four to 10 days. During hot weather, this may have to be increased to twice a week. Loam Run a gentle stream of water around the plant until the ground is wet down to at least 2 feet. Sutter's Gold, a bright yellow, fragrant, bush type, was an All-America selection in 1950. soils, which retain more moisture than do sandy soils, need irrigation every eight to 15 days in summer. Clay soils, with large water-holding capacity, may need irrigation only every 15 to 30 days. Too frequent or too light watering encourages a shallow root system — not desirable for roses. Depth of irrigation. Water should run long enough to wet down all the root zone. This will usually mean to a depth of 2 feet. Do not add more water until the roots have used most of the available moisture. Soil moisture should vary between the point of full capacity and the point at which the leaves begin to wilt. If the soil is not wet down to full root depth at irrigation, it might just as well not be wet at all. One cubic inch of water will wet directly down about 12 inches in sandy soils. In loam soils it will wet 6 to 10 inches down, and in clay, 4 to 5 inches. To wet soil to a depth of 2 feet in an area 10 by 10 feet will require 125 gal- lons of water in sandy soils, 190 gallons in loam, and about 330 gallons in clay. SOIL CONDITION AND FERTILIZING oils in most California gardens require very litrie fertilizer. Application of 1 or 2 inches of barnyard manure in late fall or early spring will supply enough nitrogen to keep bushes in good health and produce high-quality roses. This or- ganic material will help make available to the plant nutrient elements already present in the soil. Manure is, however, a more expensive source of nitrogen than are commercial nitrogen fertilizers. A commercial fertilizer containing 6 per cent nitrogen, 10 per cent phos- phoric acid, and 4 per cent potash should keep roses in good growing con- dition. To apply fertilizer: Dig properly aged barnyard manure into the soil around each bush once or twice either in the fall or early spring, at a depth of about 2 inches. If a commercial fertilizer is used, ap- ply it in a circle about 8 inches out from the trunk of the plant. This fertilizer is much stronger than manure, and should not be applied too close to the plant. Mix it carefully with the soil. Water thoroughly after applying // either type of fertilizer. Too much nitrogen fertilizer may sometimes result in a plant deformity resembling "bull nose" (see p. 18). Such a reaction is especially likely to happen early in the year. Mineral Deficiencies Nitrogen is the element most likely to be deficient in California soils, al- though some may also show a slight phosphorus deficiency. Most California soils are high in potassium. A deficiency in any one nutrient will affect growth of the plant as a whole. The following list of plant symptoms will help you determine whether your soil needs a fertilizer supplement. Nitrogen. Too little nitrogen results in yellowing of leaves and small, light- colored flowers. Growth is usually not so stunted as in lime-induced chlorosis. Phosphorus. Older leaves may drop without turning yellow. Stems are weakened and bud development is slowed because of a smaller root system. Potassium. If the soil is deficient in potassium, the stems of the roses may be weak, and even die back somewhat. Leaves may develop brown edges. Iron. Deficiency first shows as light yellowing in tips of leaves. In time, the whole area becomes yellow except the larger veins, which remain dark green. Application of an iron chelate may help overcome iron deficiency. Manganese. As with iron deficiency, leaves turn yellow, but even the smallest veins remain green. Damage is most pronounced in the top of the plant. Spraying with a solution of manganese sulfate at the rate of about 4/5 ounce to a gallon of water may help overcome this deficiency. Excess Alkali or Lime Some soils are too high in alkali or in lime, and such excesses interfere with Mme. Butterfly is a pink hybrid tea with a sweet fragrance. Christian Dior, a red-and- scarlet hybrid tea, was in- troduced in 1962 as an All-America selection. the availability of iron from the soil, which is necessary to the plant. When too much lime is present, the plants develop a condition known as lime-in- duced chlorosis. The main symptom is yellowing of the leaves regardless of whether or not they are shaded by other growth. If other nearby plants, as well as the roses, show chlorotic (yellowed) leaves, too much lime in the soil is prob- ably the cause. (Certain virus diseases may also cause similar symptoms, but the leaves may become yellow only in spots, and not all plants in an area may be affected, as with chlorosis.) Soil that has too much alkali must be washed by heavy irrigation to re- move soluble sodium and potassium, and chlorine. Addition of sulfur at about 1 pound to 40 square feet will help make the alkali salts more soluble, and easier to wash out. Alkali soils may be helped by improved drainage. Roses grown on Ragged Robin root- stock (see p. 18) seem to be most re- sistant to alkaline soil. 13 Isobel, a coppery-pink single. WEED CONTROL r ^xi'lc^ EEDS ma Y De controlled by tilling the ?<c>i6V ground around the rose bushes, but excessive tillage can result in loss of soil moisture. Where annual weeds are a problem, they may be controlled by light oil sprays, which are sold under various trade names. Follow the manu- facturer's directions for use of such sprays. PROPAGATION How and When to \\v^ Take Cuttings n California, dormant roses are often ready for cuttings to be taken by De- cember. In areas with very mild win- ters, however, growth may continue and leaves stay green all winter. Try to se- lect cuttings that are completely dor- mant, because it is much more difficult to root cuttings that still have some green leaves. If any leaves do remain, remove them. Select mature cuttings from the pasl season's growth. A cutting about as thick as a lead pencil should Ix: suffi- ciently mature by early December. It may be 6 to 8 inches long. Cut so that the tip cut will be about l A inch beyond a bud. Cut the base about ! /4 inch be- low a bud. Some growers prefer to make a slanting cut rather than straight across. Roots arise best near a node (the area close to the base of a leaf); the bud forms in the leaf axil. Since suckering may occur on rose cuttings, it is best to cut out all buds found on the base of the cane that is to be inserted into the rooting medium. Rooting Medium ("lean, sharp sand has long been the favorite medium for rooting rose cut- / / tings. A mixture of sand and peat is also very satisfactory, but sand should predominate in the mixture. Cuttings may also root well in a good loam soil. How to Plant A dormant rose cutting will in time develop new growth from the buds. This new growth must have not only a suitable temperature and adequate mois- ture and air around the roots, but also enough light for normal growth. The first stage in callusing and rooting can take place with considerable shade, but in time all rooted rose cuttings should have full sunlight. The amateur rose grower will prob- ably not find conditions for rooting cut- tings as suitable in the open garden, where the roses will finally be grown, as in a special propagating box, al- though commercial growers do very well by rooting cuttings in the field. If there is a well-drained place in the garden, where rose cuttings can be rooted easily, such a place may be chosen, instead of a propagating box with rooting medium. If drainage is poor, or if the base of the cuttings can- not be kept moderately moist all through the rooting period, there is not much use in trying to root cuttings. Moisture and temperature for good callusing (see below) can be regulated much more easily in sand than in an open garden. If planting is done in the open gar- den, the cuttings are usually set fairly close, at intervals of 4 to 6 inches, to conserve space. Cuttings that have been taken from the desired variety should stand in place for the first growing sea- son if possible, before being moved to a permanent position. Most rooted cut- tings that are to be budded to another variety (see pp. 16-17) are left for a year or two, at which time they should be ready to bud. 4 Leave some buds here ^ I Bury two-thirds of the cutting Two buds have been left exposed at top of cutting (left). Cutting at right has callused and rooted satisfactorily. V Cuttings rooted in a propagating box can be transplanted to the permanent location as soon as the roots are well started. Watering Cuttings Cuttings rooted in the open garden will probably need little water because the California rainy season continues from October to March or April, by which time the cuttings should be rooted. Cuttings rooted in propagating boxes may require some water so that the base of the cuttings will remain wet until rooting has started or been completed, depending on how long the cuttings are to remain in the box. Examine the rooting medium, and apply water only when the need is evi- dent below the surface. Watering every few days during the winter months when the cuttings are under glass should prove satisfactory. Callusing When conditions of heat, moisture, and oxygen are favorable, a rose cutting inserted into the rooting medium will form white callus tissue over the cut. This tissue helps prevent infection of the woody part of the cutting base. The conditions that favor the production of callus cells also favor root formation. The formation of a good callus over the basal cut on a rose cutting indicates Steps to Follow in Budding A\ ik I . Select a plump bud from the mother plant. Cut it out, with a sharp knife, hiking some hark above and below it. 2. Cut a T-shaped slit about •% inch long in the bark of the plant that is to receive the graft. ?. Pry open the slit care- fully and insert the bud graft gently so that all its surrounding bark is under the slit, and only the bud itself is exposed. 16 that the cutting is in a vigorous condi- tion and that external conditions are also favorable for root formation. A temperature of about 40° to 57° F in the rooting medium should prove quite satisfactory for callusing rose cut- tings. Usually the temperature should remain below 69° F. Good callusing can be achieved in either sand or a mix- ture of peat and sand. Provide enough water to form a film about the base of the cutting. Too much water reduces the amount of air that reaches the callus area. Air containing some carbon dioxide provides good aera- tion for rooting cuttings. Optimum root formation may take place at a slightly different temperature from that at which callus tissue forms. Roots form independent of the callus, in the inner cambium, a layer beneath the bark, next to the wood. Excessive callus can retard root formation, but within the upper range of temperature given above, roots should form satis- factorily. Budding Budding is a method of propagation used extensively by nurserymen as an economical way of developing new plants and of insuring plants on good rootstocks. Practically all roses from commercial nurseries are budded. The amateur grower can also bud roses successfully by following a few simple procedures. Because this method 4. Bind the bud in place with rubber, raf- fia, or string. (No waxing material is neces- sary.) Remove this wrapping once the bud is established. Do not allow it to cut into the bark. 5. When the bud has taken, cut the cane into which it was inserted to about l A inch above the bud. 17 involves considerable time before flow- ering plants are produced, however, many gardeners prefer to buy plants al- ready established. If the variety you wish to propagate is already on a good rootstock, budding is not necessary. You may simply get new plants from cuttings, as described above. If the parent plant is on a less vigorous or disease-resistant rootstock than de- sired, you may take buds from it and graft them to a rooted cutting from a variety with a desirable rootstock. Budding can only be done success- fully while the bark separates readily from the wood and while plump buds are available. If the graft takes, the bud will be green three or four weeks after grafting. Budding may be done in June or Au- gust. Buds inserted as late as August or early September remain dormant over the winter and can be forced into active growth at the start of the growing season. Rootstocks The rootstock of a rose variety is im- portant because it has a great influence on the behavior of most roses. Although not all nurseries list the rootstock on which their varieties are propagated, many do so. Some of the rootstocks that have proved successful are those of Dr. Huey, Rosa multifiora, R. odorata, R. manetti, and Ragged Robin. Many roses on R. odorata rootstock, however, may not be able to survive in areas of very cold winters. Hybrid tea or similar roses budded on these stocks have a good chance for vigorous growth if the rootstock is not more than one or two years old, and not excessively vigorous for the variety being propagated on it. The understock should not be too large for the top. An extremely vigorous rootstock may cause the flower buds to be blunt and de- formed, a condition sometimes known as "bull nose." m (g£fj^, phids and plant lice. Two aphids ^$^jj are common pests on roses. The rose aphid (Macrosiphum rosae) is a large green or pink species infesting the grow- ing tips and buds. The small green rose aphid (Myzaphis rosarum) works on all parts of the plant, particularly on the undersides of the leaves. There it pro- duces quantities of honeydew on which grows a black, sooty mold fungus. Aphids are easily killed with sprays containing either malathion, lindane, or dimethoate, applied directly to the in- # This section was revised with the help <>! C. S. Davis and J. E. Swift, Agriculturists, Agricultural Extension, Berkeley. INSECT PESTS* sects, in a fine mist, from any good hand sprayer. Early in the season, before the roses are in bloom, these aphids may be washed off with the hose every two or three days. Washing is best done early enough in the day so that the foliage will dry quickly. Borers. The flat-headed apple tree borer {Chrysobothris mali), and others, may infest badly sunburned rose bushes. If a bush starts to die back in spite of good soil and watering, borers may be causing the injury. These pests are not serious if the bushes are properly cared tor alter planting. IH The rose aphid is a large green or pink insect that infests growing tips and buds, often congregating in large numbers. Fuller rose beetle or weevil. The Fuller rose beetle (Pantomorus god- mani) is a gray, wingless beetle, about Ys inch long, which eats around the leaf edges of roses and certain other plants. It is not abundant in most gardens. For effective control, dust the entire plant with cryolite, or spray with DDT, lin- dane, or malathion. Raspberry horntail. This insect (Hartigia cressoni) is also a borer. It attacks the growing tips on climbing roses in some of the warm interior val- leys, but rarely does serious damage. Cut off the wilted tips containing the larvae, and burn them, to prevent fur- ther injury. Dig up all badly infested host plants and destroy them before new growth starts in the spring. No spray is effective in control. Red, or two-spotted, spider mite. The two-spotted mite (Tetranychus bi- maculatus) may cause a considerable amount of damage to rose foliage under greenhouse conditions, and to roses in The Fuller rose beetle. Raspberry horntail larvae and adults. Females, left; males, right. %: ■%W 19 The two-spotted spider mite (an adult female). the garden during the summer months. Spider mites can be seen only with the aid of a magnifying glass. Yellowing of the leaves in spots may be caused by spider mite injury. Frequent hosing of the leaves will control most of these mites. Aramite and Kelthane are effective spray mate- rials. If possible, eliminate other host plants harboring these mites. Rose scale. The presence of rose scale {Aulacaspis rosae) is indicated by the white, flattened, hard bodies of these insects on the older rose canes. For effec- tive control, cut out all of the older canes without leaving any stub, and prune any bush berries nearby that may also be infested with the scale. A winter- strength oil spray or oil plus malathion or Diazinon may be safely applied where necessary. Rose slug. The bristly rose slug (Cladius isomerus) infests roses more frequently in the San Francisco Bay area than in any other section of Cali- fornia. It is a yellowish-green, bristly, wormlike insect that eats holes from the undersides of the leaves, beginning about May, tor as long as green leaves appear. The adult resembles a small wasp, and lays its eggs on the under sides of the petioles. The insects may continue to appear from May through the summer until early fall. Where the rose slug is troublesome, spray the rose leaves two or three times during the season, starting about the first of May. Lead arsenate spray is ef- fective, but leaves a gray residue on the foliage. This residue is less objec- tionable if the first application is de- layed until most of the first crop of roses has been cut. DDT, Lindane, and malathion sprays are very effective and leave little or no visible residue. Spray first about May, or when the rose slugs begin to eat the leaves. A second application will usually be needed in early July to protect the leaves that have come out since spring. Rose snout beetle or rose cur- culio. The red-and-black rose beetle (Rhynchites bicolor)^ about inch long, may begin to puncture holes in the stems or buds starting to develop in the early summer. The sprays used to con- trol the rose slug will help control the Holes were made by the yellowish-green, worm- like rose slug. 20 Stems and buds damaged by holes made by the rose snout beetle (rose curculio). (Photo from Essig: Insects of Western North America. Courtesy The Macmillan Company.) snout beetle. Hand picking, or shaking the beetles off into a pan of oil may be adequate where only a few are present. Thrips. The flower or grass thrips (Frankjiniella spp.) sometimes appears on unfolding rose buds. The DDT and malathion sprays used to control rose slugs are also effective against flower thrips. An application once every 10 days or two weeks during the early growing season should be adequate. Each application should wet the under- sides of the leaves completely. Other insects. Certain other insects, such as the leafhopper, may occasion- ally cause damage, but they are of minor importance. The rose leafhopper (Ty- phocyba rosae) is reported to have caused some damage in the San Joaquin Valley. In the San Francisco Bay area, the blue sharpshooter (Cicadella circel- lata) is often found on rose leaves, but does not seem to cause much damage. DDT and malathion sprays are useful in control. Apply the spray to the foli- age, beginning in May, and repeat about once a month for two or three months. Far left: adult female flower thrips (Frank- liiiiella moultoni). heft: full-grown larva. Detail shows spines at tip of abdomen. 21 DISEASES* Fungus Diseases rmillaria root rot, also known as oak- root fungus or mushroom root rot, is caused by the mushroom-producing fungus Armillaria mellea. The fungus enters the plant through the roots and grows under the bark, killing the tissue as it advances. The most reliable indica- tion that the trouble is caused by Armil- liaria is the presence of white or cream- colored, fan-shaped fungus between the bark and wood, and in the roots and trunk beneath the soil. Roses are susceptible to Armillaria, and should not be planted in soil known to be infected. If bushes already grow- ing become infected, they should be de- stroyed and replaced by some other or- namental known to be resistant. (For a list of plants susceptible and resistant to Armillaria, write to: Public Service, 229 University Hall, Berkeley 4, Cali- fornia.) Blackspot, caused by the fungus Diplocarpon rosae, is found occasion- ally in the moist coastal areas of the state, and almost never in the dry inte- rior valleys. It is, however, one of the most serious diseases of roses in areas of the country where summer rainfall oc- curs. The fungus produces black spots with fringed margins, on the upper surface of the leaves. Yellowed areas develop around the spots, and infected leaves usually fall. Blackspot can be controlled by captan, lolpet, and the same fungicides that control rust. * This section was prepared by A. II. Mc- Cain, Associate Agriculturist in Agricultural Extension, Berkeley, and R. I). Raabe, Assoc 1 ,it< Professor of Plant Patholog) and Associate Plant Pathologist m the Experiment Station, Berkeh . Rose root infected with Armillaria root rot. Note white spots on bark. Blackspot disease shows in irregular, dark-brown or black spots which increase in size until most of the leaf surface is affected. This disease usually causes pre- mature leaf drop. 22 Canker. Several different fungi can infect rose canes at the soil surface and through openings caused by injuries and pruning wounds. As a result, brown cankers, sometimes with gray centers, develop on the affected parts, and the branch may wilt or die. A basal canker may weaken growth of the whole plant. The canker disease fungi produce many spores, which are spread in water. Consequently, infection usually occurs during wet periods. Prune off infected parts, always cut- ting just above a bud. Cover the cut ends with a wound-sealing compound. Keep the plants growing vigorously by proper fertilization and water. Powdery mildew, caused by the fungus Sphaerotheca pannosa var. rosae, is found in practically every part of Cali- fornia. Because reduced light favors its growth, mildew is more prevalent in shady locations and coastal areas. It at- tacks the leaves, buds, and shoots of sus- ceptible varieties, usually distorting their growth. The fungus is visible as a white to gray powdery growth on the leaves and other green parts of the plant. Powdery mildew can be controlled by frequent sprays or dusts of sulfur, cycloheximide, dinocap, and some other fungicides. Rust on roses is caused by the fungus Phragmidium mucronatum. Small or- ange pustules containing powdery spores form on the undersides of the leaves. In the autumn, these spores are replaced by overwintering black spores. Fungus spores may be airborne a con- siderable distance by wind. On some rose varieties that are more Powdery mildew, a com- mon rose disease, shows as a white to gray, pow- dery growth on the leaves. 23 susceptible to the disease than others, only one or two pustules on a leaf may cause it to turn yellow and fall. The foliage can be protected from in- fection by spraying at seven- to 10-day intervals with zineb, maneb, or ferbam. The sprays will not kill rust already present, but will keep spores from ger- minating and further infecting the leaves. Verticillium wilt is caused by the fungus Verticillium albo-atrum, which is soil-borne and capable of surviving in the soil for 10 or more years. Many different kinds of plants are attacked, es- pecially chrysanthemum, cotton, night- shade weed, pepper, potato, strawberry, and tomato. Soil in which any of these crops have been planted is likely to be infested with the fungus, and should not be used for roses. Infected rose plants lose the leaves on one or more shoots, which then die back from the tip. New shoots may arise from the base, but the plant rarely makes a complete recovery. Most rose rootstocks are susceptible, and there is no cure for infected plants. However, Rosa manetti rootstock is re- sistant to most strains of the fungus, and where the disease occurs, roses on this rootstock should be used. Soil fumigation is the only method for eliminating the fungus from the soil. Fumigation must be done only by a licensed pest control operator trained in the use of the hazardous chemical (chloropicrin) involved. Bacterial Disease Crown gall is caused by the bac- terium Agrobacterium tumefaciens. Rough galls or overgrowths result from infection through wounds on the roots and crown of the plant. Occasionally parts aboveground also become infected. Many kinds of plants are susceptible to crown gall, and the bacterium can sur- vive in the soil for several years. The disease cannot be controlled by breaking off the galls since they will Rose leaves affected by rust, a fungus disease. Leaf at left shows powdery spores on underside. 24 infected plants show various patterns and blotches of yellow tissue. Although the virus is present in all parts of the plant, usually not all of the leaves dis- play the symptoms. The disease is trans- mitted vegetatively, when grafting or budding is done. Try to avoid using stock that transmits this virus. Unlike many other plant viruses, the rose viruses are not known to be spread by insects. There is no known cure for infected plants. Fortunately, the growth of most virus-infected roses is not severely af- fected. Root of rose plant infected by crown gall, a bacterial disease. Such plants should be removed from the rose garden. usually develop again at the same place. Avoid wounding plants at the soil line. Do not buy or plant roses infected by crown gall. Remove any infected plants from the rose garden. Virus Disease Mosaic is a virus disease. Symptoms vary with the rose variety and the par- ticular rose virus involved. Leaves of Mosaic, a virus disease, may be carried from the rootstock to other parts of the plant. Infected leaves show yellow blotches. THE SPRAY AND DUST PROGRAM Timing he times recommended for spraying and dusting have been carefully deter- mined so that they are either best for control or safest for the plant. Follow the recommended schedules closely for satisfactory results. Coverage When spraying, wet the limbs, twigs, and foliage thoroughly for good control of insects, mites, and diseases. Keep the spray mixture stirred, especially one containing chemicals that tend to settle rapidly (for example, zineb). 25 Equipment For sprays, compressed-air spray tanks, knapsack sprayers, bucket pumps, and trombone-type sprayers are satisfac- tory. For dusting, use the ready-made equipment in which many of the dusts are sold, or any other mechanical device adequate for the job. Apply dusts uni- formly but lightly; heavy visible de- posits are unnecessary, and may injure some plants. Dosages Formulations of materials for use by the amateur rose grower are available under many trade names and various concentrations. Before using the mate- rials, be certain to read the label and follow directions for use carefully. Use only the amount recommended. Combination Sprays Gardeners with only a few rose plants may prefer to buy a trade product formulated as a combination spray. Most of these sprays are effective because they contain materials to control insects, mites, and diseases. The powdery mildew fungicides, cy- cloheximide, dinocap, and sulfur, are compatible with the rust and blackspot fungicides, captan, folpet, ferbam, maneb, and zineb. Where powdery mil- dew and rust or blackspot occur to- gether, a combination spray of one of the powdery mildew fungicides and one of the rust fungicides may be conveni- ent. All of the above-mentioned fungicides are generally compatible with most in- secticides, such as DDT, lindane, mala- thion, and methoxychlor. It would be possible to apply a combined powdery mildew, rust, blackspot, and insect spray, but the fungicides and probably the insecticides would have reduced ef- fectiveness. Combination sprays should be used only when necessary. Fungicides Fungicides are available under nu- merous trade names. In some instances the trade name is the same as the generic name, which is a shortened version of the active chemical ingredient in the product. The list below gives the generic Pinocchio is a salmon- and-pink floribunda with a delightful fragrance. name, chemical, and some of the trade names under which the formulation is sold. Because of the large numbers of com- mercial fungicides available, it is un- avoidable that similar products under other trade names may not be cited. No endorsement of named products is in- tended, nor is criticism implied of simi- lar products not mentioned. GENERIC NAME CHEMICAL TRADE NAMES captan cycloheximitle dinocap ferbam folpet maneb ineb N-Trichloromethylmercapto-4-cyclohexine- 1,2-dicarboximicle Beta [2-(3,5-dimethyl-2-oxycyclohexyl)- 2-hydroxycthyl] -glutarimide Dinitro (i-mcthylheptyl) phenyl crotonate Ferric dimethvldithiocarbamate N-Trichloromethylthiophthalimide Manganese ethylenebisdithiocarbamate Zinc ethylenebisdithiocarbamate Captan Orthocide Acti-dione PM Capryl Doo-Spray Karathane Mildex Carbamate Fermate Ferbam Karbam Black Phaltan Rose and Garden Fungicide Dithane M-22 Maneb Manzate Dithane Z-78 Parzate C Zineb PRECAUTIONS FOR THE HANDLING OF PESTICIDES Read all labels carefully before using pest- and disease-control materials, and follow the precautions listed. Pesticides are poisonous; store them in locked cabinets away from children and animals. Do not stand in the drift or breathe the fumes of pesticides while mixing or spraying them. Wash thoroughly, and change clothing after spraying or dusting. Do not smoke or eat while applying pesticides. Do not remove a pesticide from its original container and store in a soda pop bottle, a bag, or any other container. Destroy and properly dispose of empty pesticide containers immediately. Left-over spray or dust materials should be immediately disposed of. Do not store them for future use. Thoroughly wash and clean spraying equipment after use. Do not let sprays drift onto other garden plants that will be eaten by man or animal. Keep sprays and dusts out of fish ponds, birdbaths, and water supplies for animals. Protect nearby evergreen trees and shrubs from the dormant sprays used on rose bushes. Do not use household preparations of DDT or other insecticides on plants; they contain solvents which may injure plants. 27 PRUNING orrect pruning strengthens the plant. Incorrect pruning can be highly destruc- tive. All roses should be pruned at least once a year. Canes on most rose bushes can be expected to produce good flowers for four or five years, and occasionally longer. When a cane reaches its limit of good flower production, cut it back right to the ground. If the bush is properly handled, it will develop new canes to replace the old ones. If the old canes are left too long, and insufficient thinning is done, the rose bush may produce so little vigorous new growth that it is scarcely worth keeping. The bud or lateral to which the cane is cut back will nor- mally make the most growth in length. An upright bush can be made more spreading by cutting back the outside buds or lateral branches. Or a spreading bush becomes more upright if cut back to about l A inch of inside buds or upright laterals. Always use pruning shears with clean, sharp blades. On new, green wood, a sharp knife gives a clean cut with no ragged edges. The cut surface normally does not need to be covered. However, if a par- ticular variety tends to show dieback, cover the pruning wounds with a good wound dressing such as one of the cold asphalt materials on the market. Winter pruning. The present prac- tice with most varieties is to prune very late in the dormant season — late January rather than in December. This allows a minimum of time between pruning and the first new growth. Some varie- ties have shown more dieback, when pruned early, than when pruning was done at the later date. Late pruning also encourages prompt healing of cuts with less danger of infection. When the regular dormant season ar- rives, the different flushes of growth made during the year are usually ig- nored. Cut the total annual growth back rather severely to a good side bud low down on the current season's growth, with only one to three buds left on the growth made for the year. Occasionally, more buds may be left on very vigorous roses or on varieties such as Golden Emblem which seems to flower better when the canes are allowed to grow a little longer than usual. Summer pruning. This practice should be limited largely to maintaining the shape of the bush since it in- volves cutting back new growth and tends to weaken the plant. Vigorous varieties, such as Belle of Portugal and the hybrid teas, may be summer pruned. The pillar roses also need some prun- ing in summer for good shape. Roses that are being trained or woven about a particular form may need to be short- ened occasionally during the summer months. When the first crop of flowers fades, the dead blossoms should be removed. At that time, new growth may also be cut back to strong side buds or laterals. The uppermost buds will form new shoots which, in hybrid tea roses and in certain other everblooming types, will flower in time. When the second crop of flowers has finished the blooming period, the growth may again be short- ened-in by cutting back to strong side buds or laterals. Under this system, 28 three crops of flowers a year can be pro- duced under favorable conditions. Bush roses. Growers often disagree about how to prune bush roses. Grow- ing conditions affect the vigor. of these roses, and, indirectly, the degree of pruning. Many of the roses in central California gardens respond to some- what more severe pruning than do the same varieties in southern California. To say that an established bush rose should be maintained at a height of about 18 inches, or 2 feet, or any other height is purely arbitrary. The height maintained depends on varietal charac- teristics and the conditions under which the bush is grown. It may take a few years for the ordi- nary gardener to find out exactly how a given variety responds to a certain type of pruning. He may find that the canes should be left somewhat longer on a very vigorous and upright variety, such as Sutter's Gold, than on a less vigorous one. Furthermore, a floribunda variety, for example, is grown for masses of bloom while most hybrid teas are grown for quality buds or blooms on long stems. Less pruning will encourage more blooms, but the size of flowers and length of stem may be poor. Remove as much older wood as pos- sible without destroying the shape of the plant. Cut new wood back about half way and to an outside bud or eye. The vigorous new canes that normally push out above the bud union form the framework of the bush and replace any old canes that are removed. (Use a sharp knife to cut the soft new wood, to prevent ragged edges.) Roses that have been propagated cor- rectly should not produce suckers below the bud union. If suckers do appear, remove them immediately. Many of the polyantha roses, such as Cecile Brunner, are upright in growth habit, and usually support more canes than most of the hybrid tea roses. Con- sequently, their canes are generally not shortened-in so much as those on the latter. Vigorous canes on these upright varieties may develop a cluster of flow- ers. If this happens, cut the cane back to a sound bud just below the cluster. Cecile Brunner should be cut to outside buds to prevent too compact growth. Hybrid tea bush roses usually respond Mature plant of a hybrid tea rose. Left: before pruning; right: after pruning. 29 best to moderate to severe pruning. A vigorous rose, such as Autumn, may be pruned moderately and allowed to pro- duce more and longer canes. A rose with a weak growth habit, such as Lady I Iillingdon, must be pruned back se- verely in order to produce the best flow- ering wood. Such differences in vigor, Diagram shows how to shorten and thin past season's growth on a standard or tree rose. (Right side not yet pruned.) Small diagram shows top view of stan- dard, with branches properly spaced around trunk. and local conditions, will determine how much to prune, both at time of planting and as the bush develops. Floribundas and grandifloras. These roses are variable in growth habit since they include both the large-flower- ing polyanthas and the low, compact- growing hybrid teas. These classes must be pruned to encourage the mass color effect for which they are valued. Just enough thinning-out and cutting back is required to encourage production of healthy flowering wood each season. When planted along driveways and walks where there is plenty of room, the floribundas can form 1 airly large bushes that need only a small amount of prun- ing in winter. Hie floribundas and grandifloras may 50 also be pruned a second time during the growing season to keep the long canes in bounds. Some of the vigorous kinds, such as Pinocchio, Cinnabar, Pink Bountiful, Floradora, and the grandi- floras, are sufficiently vigorous to justify only moderate pruning such as that given the hybrid teas. Climbing roses. For those climbers that bloom only in the spring, delay pruning until after flowering to insure a maximum number of flowers. The climbing hybrid tea roses that have de- veloped as sports from bush roses will usually flower over a long period of time. Such roses may be pruned moder- ately in the late dormant season. Cut back the side branches or laterals on the long canes to stubs of from one to three buds. Leave most of the length growth of the main canes, however. Do not remove any new canes needed to re- place aging ones. A variety such as Belle of Portugal may also need a second pruning. How- ever, do not prune these roses in the late dormant season before the plant has flowered. Among a few other climbing roses that will tolerate more than one- pruning a year are Cecile Brunner and Mermaid. In fact, they will tolerate al- most any kind of pruning, including rather heavy shortening-in of length growth or side branches. Standard or tree roses. Full stand- ard or tree roses are budded at a height of about 40 inches. The half-standards are budded at about 24 inches. Most growers want a drooping habit of growth, or fountain effect, which gives a rounded head and satisfactory length of flower stem. Prune standard roses once each year, late in the dormant season. Leave only one to three buds of the past season's growth on moderately vigorous varie- ties. More cane growth may be left on extremely vigorous standards. EXHIBITION BLOOMS arious organizations have been formed (Wi to help rose f anc i ers m appraising and selecting varieties. These include the American Rose Society, with headquar- ters in Harrisburg, Pennsylvania; the Pacific Rose Society, La Canada, Cali- fornia; the All-America Rose Selections, Harrisburg; and various local groups affiliated with the national organiza- tions. The fact that a rose has been given an All-America award does not neces- sarily mean that it will do well in a particular district in California. For ex- ample, Mirandy won an All-America award in 1945, yet recognized rose fan- ciers pronounce it almost worthless for central California. However, rose varie- ties that are generally successful — espe- cially on the Pacific Coast — stand a good chance of being successful in many Cali- fornia gardens. Roses for exhibition are rated by the judges on the following points: Per cent Form or shape 25 Color 25 Substance 20 Stem and foliage 20 Size 10 100 No allowance is given for fragrance in exhibition roses in spite of many grow- ers' preference for the fragrant varieties. Substance, as used in judging roses, means firmness, resistance to touch, or rigidity of petals. Good substance helps the bloom resist unfavorable weather. 31 Stems on roses to be exhibited must always be debudded. Foliage should be healthy, shiny, and free of mildew, rust, other diseases, and insects. The stem be- low the blooms should be properly cov- ered with leaves. (Certain varieties, for example, President Herbert Hoover, do not meet this requirement, and are un- suitable for show competition.) Varieties that require a minimum of care for control of insects and diseases usually receive higher ratings than do the more susceptible plants. Many roses introduced in recent years have had too few petals to make them ideal for exhibition, but their color or the form of their buds may make up tor the deficiency. Most roses are judged when only partly opened. Good buds are therefore important even if the flow- ers are less desirable when full-blown. If the form of the flower is your prime concern, from the standpoint of an ex- hibition rose, you probably will not plant such varieties as Fred Edmunds or Grande Duchesse Charlotte, because their form is sometimes faulty. As for single roses, if anything hap- pens to one of the five petals, the flower is not suitable for exhibition. On a many-petaled rose, however, a lost or faulty petal will not be so serious a handicap. Exhibition color classifications are often too restrictive to admit some bi- colors and some of the multicolored varieties. For example, Peace is not ex- actly yellow, and does not fit well in a yellow color class; Forty-Niner is not limited to red. Color variations should be considered when show classifications are made up. 32 SOME POPULAR ROSE VARIETIES DESCRIBED BY TYPE, GROWTH HABIT, COLOR, AND FRAGRANCE Eclipse, a yellow hybrid tea. 35 u Oh td V5 — 2, s w a, &3 jx bJO • i-i -a a OS o3 c <L> 03 Ui <U bJO c 03 03 03 bJO 03 O * £ as bfi •; <u £ rr O J P* ~0 ^ jd ^ u 33 T3 G aJ o3 j3 O c 'cL bJD b£ c "EL o o VI V o "a. a u a. < a 03 o d 03 6 — c o 'l-c a, < t/5 o > on V PLh 3 03 c <u O bO 2 -a S'fi o3 O o u c _h £ 0J rt -5 *o ^ u* ;_3 —* T3 OJ O u >H O P* pa < X £ X 3 H o <u 3 a -3 be P bJO _o3 'a 11 a, 3 as as ■a -3 s 3 03 03 t/J5/5COt/>(/)C/3</St/5C/5 333333333 fflfflfflfQfflfflCQeQCQ -T3 -a -a -a s >^ ~ 3 T3 o f, u-xxxx^ixuhD: 03 3 Uh Ih *1 • ° ° i 1 i x x ^ x j C/5 V5 CO CO CO CO CO 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 PQ PQ pQ pQ pq PQ PQ -a a 3 rg >• Uh tin "2 7° 72 72 72 J3 _o J3 x _a >> >^ >^ >^ >^ h-U Jh JL Jh hU 3 o u H ft & _ _ 3 c^ 3 Q i o QU W - .S 3 3 >- biD 2h ' ^ ^ -< *+, pq ps P3 bi: PQ PQ -T3 a J2 8.4 o3 <U <u 3 as '•=< Oh Oh ZT to ^ 3 ^3 Q -3 p U PQ 3 o y ^1 as biD be b "C 3 PQ PQ P3 ^ o o .3 v a § si -3 3 o3 u "bJD 'bJD C 3 c/5 c/5 09 s o ii- * .5 ■^ 3 cu Pm'G o3 o3 O sj u g o Z o 2 E Q O >^ 'a. 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What Every Rose Grower Should Know. Harrisburg, Pa.: Hearthside Press, 1951. Roses for Every Garden. New York: M. Barrows & Co., Inc., 1956. Edwards, John Paul How to Grow Roses. San Mateo, Calif.: Lane Publishing Company, i960. Emsweller, Samuel Leonard, and W. D. McClellan "Roses for the Home." U.S.D.A. Home and Garden Bui. 25 (rev.). Washington, D.C.: U. S. Govt. Printing Office, 1956. Lester, Frances E. My Friend the Rose. Harrisburg, Pa.: J. Horace McFarland Company, 1942. Park, Bertram World of Roses. Garden City, New York: E. P. Dutton, 1962. Rockwell, Frederich F., and Esther C. Grayson Rockwell's Complete Boo\ of Roses. A practical guide to the uses, selection, planting, care, exhibi- tion and propagation of roses of all types. Garden City, New York: E. P. Dutton, 1958. Shepherd, Roy E., and Catherine E. Meitle (eds.) Modern Roses V. A concise descriptive list of all roses in commerce or of historical or botanical importance. (Compiled by J. Horace McFarland Company in cooperation with the American Rose Society. Species list prepared by Gordon Rowley.) Harrisburg, Pa.: J. Horace McFarland Company, 1958. Thomson, Richard Roses for Pleasure, How to Select, Grow, Use and Enjoy Them. Princeton, N.J.: Van Nostrand, 1957- Old Roses for Modern Gardens. Princeton, N.J.: Van Nostrand, 1959. Wilson, Helen Van Pelt Climbing Roses. New York: M. Barrows & Co., 1955. In order that information in our publications may be more intelligible it is sometimes necessary to use trade names of products or equipment rather than complicated descriptive or chemical identi- fications. In so doing it is unavoidable in some cases that similar products which are on the market under other trade names may not be cited. No endorsement of named products is intended nor is criticism implied of similar products which are not mentioned. 44 Co-operative Extension work in Agriculture and Home Economics, College of Agriculture, University of California, and United States Deportment of Agriculture co-operating. Distributed in furtherance of the Ads of Congress of May 8, and June 30, 1914. George B. Alcorn, Director, California Agricultural Extension Service. 10m-l,'64(E838)L.L. THIS BOO" IS AGRICULTURAL PUBLICATIONS 207 University Hall terkeley 4, California M T M * ATE HOME GARDEN ™rci FROM THE DIVISION OF AGRICULTURAL SCIENCES i MANUAL 5 / Camellia Culture for the Home Gardener 25c MANUAL 8 / Fuchsia Culture in the Home Garden 25c MANUAL 10 / Planning the Garden $1.00 MANUAL 12 / Geraniums and Pelargoniums in the Home Garden ..25c MANUAL 14 / Gladiolus — How to Grow Then in the Home Garden 25*. s*« - if MANUAL 18 /Orchids for the California Amateur 25c :/ MANUAL 21 / Rhododendrons and Azaleas Amateur 25c MANUAL 30/ Irises for the Home Gardener 25c To obtain additional copies of this manual or a catalog listing other manuals and free publications available, sec your University of California Farm Advisor (offices located in most California counties), or send orders, payment and requests to the above address. Orders of 10 or more copies of any one manual take a 20 per cent discount off the list price. All manuals are shipped prepaid. 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