Division of Agricultural Sciences 
 UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA 
 
 '''<'hi*«Q 
 
 CALIFORNIA AGRICULTURAL 
 Experiment Station 
 Extension Service 
 
 MANUAL 34 
 
 Price: 25?! 
 
Contents 
 
 The Author 
 
 H. M. Butterfield is Agricul- 
 turist Emeritus, Agricultural Ex- 
 tension Service, Berkeley. 
 
 JANUARY, 1964 
 
 This manual replaces Manual 13, 
 Amateur Rose Culture in California. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 THE HYBRIDS AND THEIR PROGENY ... I 
 
 ALL-AMERICA AWARDS 5 
 
 SELECT VARIETIES ADAPTED TO CLIMATE . . 6 
 
 PLANTING 8 
 
 IRRIGATING 10 
 
 SOIL CONDITION AND FERTILIZING .... II 
 
 WEED CONTROL 14 
 
 PROPAGATION 14 
 
 INSECT PESTS 1 8 
 
 DISEASES 22 
 
 THE SPRAY AND DUST PROGRAM .... 25 
 
 PRUNING 28 
 
 EXHIBITION BLOOMS 3 1 
 
 SOME POPULAR ROSE VARIETIES DESCRIBED 
 BY TYPE, GROWTH HABITS, COLOR AND 
 
 FRAGRANCE 34 
 
 REFERENCES 44 
 
 This manual is one of a series published by ihc University of California Division of Agricultural 
 Sciences, and is sold for a charge which is based upon returning only a portion of the production 
 cost. By this means it is possible to make available publications which, due to relatively high cost 
 of production, or limited audience, would otherwise be beyond the scope of the Division's publish- 
 ing program. 
 
OSE CULTURE 
 
 FOR THE 
 
 HOME GARDENER 
 
 H. M. BUTTERFIELD 
 
 he wild rose was the first rose described 
 as growing in California. Spanish set- 
 ders, who saw it along the trail from 
 San Diego to San Francisco in 1769, 
 called it the Castilian rose — probably in 
 memory of the pink rose they had left in 
 Spain (Rosa damascena var. trigintape- 
 tala). Later, they imported the Castilian 
 rose from the old country and planted it 
 in mission and rancho gardens, and in 
 their cemeteries. 
 
 Eighty years later, settlers described 
 two roses growing in California, the 
 same pink Castilian and a white variety 
 growing at Mission San Jose. The latter 
 was probably either the single White 
 Cherokee or the Lamarque, both intro- 
 duced in Europe in the early part of the 
 nineteenth century. 
 
 In 1859 nurserymen brought to San 
 Francisco such popular roses as Austrian 
 Copper and White Banksia, the former 
 introduced in Europe at the end of the 
 sixteenth century, the latter, in the early 
 nineteenth. Among many other varieties 
 brought in were Gloire des Rosomanes 
 (Ragged Robin), Cloth of Gold (Chro- 
 matella), Gold of Ophir, Niphetos, and 
 Fortune's Yellow. Many of these early 
 nineteenth-century European roses still 
 grow in old California gardens. 
 
 By 1856, rose culture in the state had 
 grown so rapidly that Louis Prevost, a 
 nurseryman at San Jose, listed some 
 20,000 rose plants for sale. By 1858, a 
 San Francisco nurseryman, William C. 
 Walker, grew between 400 and 500 rose 
 varieties. 
 
 THE HYBRIDS AND THEIR PROGENY 
 
 Iose growers are interested primarily in 
 'the many rose hybrids and their prog- 
 W^r&P eny. Certain fanciers, however, are inter- 
 ested only in rose species, such as the still 
 
 popular Banksia, Austrian Copper, Rosa 
 hugonis, and R. wichuvaiana. Commer- 
 cial growers are also interested in the 
 wild stocks that have provided R. multi- 
 
 JL1BKAR* 
 
 UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA 
 
 DAVIS 
 
flora and R. odorata — the Chinese tea 
 rose — or in hybrids between species, 
 such as R. manetti. 
 
 At one time the hybrid perpetual, tea, 
 and noisette were highly popular. Inter- 
 est in the multiflora, the moss, and the 
 pernettiana has declined, and hybrids 
 in these groups are now seldom grown. 
 
 Hybrid perpetuals. This class was 
 originated in 1835 by crossing the old 
 Damask perpetual with the Bourbon 
 rose to secure a vigorous race. The cross 
 is usually well represented by the variety 
 Frau Karl Druschki, occasionally by 
 Paul Neyron and Ulrich Brunner, and 
 by American Beauty. 
 
 Tea roses. Named for their tea scent, 
 many roses of this group had a relatively 
 weak habit of growth, and tended to 
 have weak stems. Among the teas are 
 
 Cecile Brunner 
 (climbing form), 
 one of the most 
 popular of the 
 polyantha roses. 
 
 Lady Hillingdon, Marechal Niel, and 
 the various Cochet roses. 
 
 Noisette. Noted for its vigorous 
 climbing habit and ease of culture, this 
 hybrid required little pruning. Cloth of 
 Gold, Gold of Ophir (Ophirie), La- 
 marque, and William Allen Richard- 
 son, representative of this class, are 
 occasionally seen today in old gardens. 
 
 Multiflora group. This group in- 
 cludes the polyantha and some of the 
 ramblers. Cecile Brunner, Baby Ram- 
 bler, and Yellow Rambler are old vari- 
 
Red Ripples, a velvety, vivid red bush 
 rose of the floribunda type. 
 
 eties in this class. All varieties of the 
 multiflora group are characterized by 
 small flowers borne in clusters. Con- 
 siderable publicity has been given to 
 Rosa multiflora as a hedge plant in 
 states with summer rainfall. Most rose 
 specialists agree that this rose cannot be 
 expected to grow well in most parts of 
 California without irrigation, and few 
 gardeners would be interested in its 
 small flowers. Furthermore, the plant 
 makes a high, rounded mound, and 
 will not produce a narrow, compact 
 hedge. The rose is deciduous — also a 
 disadvantage where an evergreen hedge 
 is planned. 
 
 Polyantha roses. These produce 
 very small flowers, often borne in 
 clusters. Cecile Brunner, in climbing 
 form, and Etoile Luisante, in bush, illus- 
 trate this group very well. 
 
 Floribunda group. Certain roses 
 formerly listed as hybrid teas or as 
 hybrid polyanthas are found in this 
 group. Included are the large-flowering 
 
 polyanthas, such as Rosenelfe, and the 
 low, compact-growing hybrid teas, such 
 as Snowbird and World's Fair, which 
 have flowers up to perhaps 4 inches in 
 diameter, in a wide range of colors. 
 Some of the newer varieties among the 
 floribundas, such as Golden Slippers, 
 Sarabande, Gold Cup, and Jiminy Crick- 
 ets, have become very popular. 
 
 Moss rose. The moss-like glands 
 covering the sepals give this rose its 
 name. The flower is particularly attrac- 
 tive in the bud stage, but not in full 
 bloom. 
 
 Pernettiana group. This group 
 resulted from a cross between Austrian 
 Copper and one of the hybrid perpetu- 
 als, and includes Juliet and Mme. 
 Edouard Herriot. 
 
 Hybrid teas. These roses, developed 
 mosdy in the last fifty years, have almost 
 entirely replaced the tea roses. They 
 were originated by crossing the tea roses 
 with the hybrid perpetuals. Charlotte 
 Armstrong is a fine example of this type. 
 Tropicana is a 1963 introduction. Some 
 
 Summer Sunshine is a canary 
 yellow hybrid tea bush rose. 
 
hybrid teas are also grown as hedge 
 plants. These need ample water in dry 
 climates. 
 
 Certain briar characteristics, such as 
 colors of old gold and flame red, have 
 been introduced in the hybrid teas from 
 the pernettiana group. Hybrid tea roses 
 have also been used in some of the 
 crosses. The intense copper in some of 
 our modern hybrid teas is inherited from 
 the Austrian briar. The long blooming 
 period of hybrid teas makes them espe- 
 cially valuable for sprays and color effect. 
 
 Single roses. There is still some in- 
 terest in the Irish single roses, such as 
 Irish Elegance, and the Cherokee roses, 
 such as Pink Cherokee. Fortune's Yel- 
 low, a miscellaneous rose, is thought by 
 some to be a hybrid between the Chero- 
 kee and the Banksia. In California, 
 Fortune's Yellow is known both as 
 Beauty of Glazenwood and as San 
 Rafael. One of the best climbing singles 
 is Dainty Bess. 
 
 Ragged Robin, of the Bourbon group, 
 is still a popular rose for planting around 
 orchards, but to thrive in ;i dry climate 
 it needs added water. 
 
 The crimson stamens of this single, pink 
 climber, Dainty Bess, make it a striking 
 and popular variety. 
 
 Bush roses and climbers. Some of 
 the best varieties of these modern roses 
 are listed in the table on pages 34-43. 
 Many of the popular bush roses are also 
 grown as standard, or tree, roses for use 
 in formal gardens or where space is 
 limited. Many of the most popular 
 hybrid tea roses have been developed 
 from bush roses by mutation. 
 
 Fairy, or miniature, roses. These 
 belong to the species Rosa chinensis var. 
 minima, or possibly a recent derivative. 
 Some of today's miniatures probably are 
 descendants of this earlier species. Avail- 
 able evidence does not make clear what 
 the type name is for the miniatures. 
 
ALL-AMERICA AWARDS 
 
 he list below shows the All-America awards for 1954-1964. Roses in this list are 
 those considered by 16 judges, from throughout the United States, to be the best 
 introductions for the year. 
 
 YEAR 
 
 VARIETY 
 
 INTRODUCED BY: 
 
 YEAR 
 
 VARIETY 
 
 INTRODUCED BY: 
 
 I964 
 
 Granada 
 
 Howards of Hemet 
 
 1959 
 
 Ivory Fashion 
 
 Conard & Pyle 
 
 
 Saratoga 
 
 Jackson & Perkins 
 
 
 Starfirc 
 
 Germains 
 
 1963 
 
 Royal Highness 
 
 Conard & Pyle 
 
 1958 
 
 Fusilier 
 
 Jackson & Perkins 
 
 
 Tropicana 
 
 Jackson & Perkins 
 
 
 Gold Cup 
 
 Jackson & Perkins 
 
 I962 
 
 Christian Dior 
 
 Conard & Pyle 
 
 
 White Knight 
 
 Conard & Pyle 
 
 
 Golden Slippers 
 
 Petersen & Dering 
 
 1 'J 57 
 
 Golden Showers 
 
 Germains 
 
 
 John S. Armstrong 
 
 Armstrongs 
 
 
 White Bouquet 
 
 Jackson & Perkins 
 
 
 King's Ransom 
 
 Jackson & Perkins 
 
 1956 
 
 Circus 
 
 Armstrongs 
 
 1 96 1 
 
 Duet 
 
 Conard & Pyle 
 
 1955 
 
 Jiminy Crickets 
 
 Jackson & Perkins 
 
 
 Pink Parfait 
 
 Armstrongs 
 
 
 Queen Elizabeth 
 
 Germains 
 
 i960 
 
 Fire King 
 
 Conard & Pyle 
 
 
 Tiffany 
 
 Howards of Hemet 
 
 
 Garden Party 
 
 Armstrongs 
 
 1954 
 
 Lilibet 
 
 Howard & Smith 
 
 
 Sarabande 
 
 Conard & Pyle 
 
 
 Mojave 
 
 Armstrongs 
 
 Taffeta, an All-America selec- 
 tion for 1948, is admired for its 
 apricot shades and excellent, 
 glossy leaves. 
 
Floradora, an orange-red 
 and cream bush rose, is also 
 available as a climber. 
 
 SELECT VARIETIES ADAPTED TO CLIMATE 
 
 alifornia's widely varying climate 
 makes it difficult to recommend any 
 specific rose variety for statewide plant- 
 ing. Fortunately, many varieties seem to 
 do well in any climate. The state may be 
 loosely divided into six climatic zones, 
 all of which overlap somewhat, so that 
 no hard and fast limits can be set. 
 
 Beach. Exposed to ocean from San 
 Diego to the state's northern boundary. 
 Averages 325 days per year above freez- 
 ing. Mean summer temperatures under 
 70° F; winter mean, 44° to 48° F. 
 
 Coastal plain. Lies just back of 
 beach area. Averages 250 to 325 days 
 }>er year above freezing. Summer tem- 
 j^eratures as high as 75° F; winter mean, 
 40° to 45° F. Growth of roses is affected 
 by cooling influence of ocean, but air is 
 less damp than in beach /.one. 
 
 Transition. Lies between coastal 
 plain and hot inland zone. Normal 
 growing season averages 200 to 275 
 days per year. Mean winter temperature, 
 65° F; mean summer temperatures 
 range from 75° to 80° F. 
 
 Inland. A long, hot valley extending 
 from Shasta County south into Kern 
 County. Averages about 225 or more 
 days above freezing. Summer tempera- 
 tures are often 100° F or higher. 
 
 Desert. An inland zone, with an 
 average of 250 or more days per year 
 above freezing. Mean summer tempera- 
 ture, about 90° F. Mean winter tem- 
 perature may be as high as 65° F, but 
 nights are cold. 
 
 Mountain. High elevations, with 
 heavy freezing in winter, and a chance 
 of lrost in almost any month of the 
 
year. A short growing season of 100 to 
 200 days above freezing. Rose canes may 
 be killed back unless a very hardy vari- 
 ety is planted, such as some of the Rosa 
 rugosa hybrids. 
 
 Number of Petals 
 
 and Climatic Conditions 
 
 The average number of petals per 
 blossom is a varietal characteristic — for 
 example, the Lowell Thomas variety 
 averages only 15 to 18 petals, while 
 Peace averages 50 to 65. The number of 
 petals of a particular variety has a bear- 
 ing on how well that variety will bloom 
 under various climatic conditions. 
 
 Where the growing season is cool and 
 roses are slow to open, only those with 
 relatively few petals are well adapted. 
 Some roses with more petals may do 
 well in the hottest part of summer, and 
 some of the popular roses in the cooler 
 coastal districts may be satisfactory 
 further inland early or late in the season 
 when the prevailing weather is cool. In 
 general, those roses with 15 to 25 petals 
 open rapidly, and those with from 25 to 
 35 open medium rapidly. Roses with 35 
 to 40 petals need more heat in order to 
 open quickly, and are therefore better 
 adapted to a generally warm climate or 
 to the warmer months in a generally 
 cool climate. Roses with 40 to 60 or 
 more petals are usually slow to open, 
 and need a warm growing season. Such 
 roses are well suited to the interior areas 
 where summers are warm to hot. The 
 higher mountain areas will probably 
 have some warm weather in summer, 
 but winters may be cold, and frosts fre- 
 quent. In these areas, only hardy roses 
 can survive, regardless of petal numbers. 
 Roses that seem to do well almost every- 
 where usually have from 25 or 30 to 
 about 40 petals. 
 
 Roses with 15 to 24 Petals: 
 Suited to Coastal Areas 
 
 Autumn 
 
 Fandango 
 
 Fashion 
 
 Fred Edmunds 
 
 Kathcrine T. Marshall 
 
 Mme. Cccile Brunncr 
 
 Ophelia and forms of 
 
 Picture 
 
 Saturnia 
 
 Sutter's Gold 
 
 Sweet Sixteen 
 
 Taffeta 
 
 Talisman 
 
 Vogue 
 
 Roses with 35 to 50 or More Petals: 
 Suited to Warm to Hot Areas 
 
 Applause 
 
 Candy Stripe 
 
 Chief Seattle 
 
 Chrysler 
 
 Debonair 
 
 Fred Howard 
 
 Horace McFarland 
 
 Memoriam 
 
 Mirandy 
 
 Peace 
 
 Red Ripples 
 
 Sincera 
 
 Suspense 
 
 Roses with 25 to 35 Petals: 
 
 Suited to Many Areas 
 
 Where Summers Are Not Very Hot 
 
 Buccaneer 
 
 Charlotte Armstrong 
 
 Circus and Circus Parade 
 
 Duet 
 
 Etoile de Hollande 
 
 First Love 
 
 Floradora 
 
 Forty-Niner 
 
 Golden Emblem 
 
 Grande Duchesse Charlotte 
 
 Helen Traubel 
 
 Junior Miss 
 
 Mme. Henri Guillot 
 
 Nocturne 
 
 Ophelia and forms of 
 
 Peace 
 
 Picture 
 
 Show Girl 
 
 Signora 
 
 Tickled Pink 
 
 Traviata 
 
PLANTING 
 
 limate and soil. Plant roses either in 
 full sun or where a reasonable amount 
 of sun reaches them during the day. 
 Roses grown in shade are susceptible to 
 mildew. In the hot interior valleys the 
 flowers will probably bloom faster than 
 those grown in a cool climate, and some 
 protection from the afternoon sun may 
 be desirable. 
 
 Frost is not likely to damage roses in 
 most parts of California although some 
 protection may be required in the high 
 mountains. Unseasonable frost at time 
 of new growth could, of course, 
 cause injury. 
 
 A well-drained, fertile loam 
 soil is best for roses. It should 
 not contain excessive amounts 
 of alkali salts or other harmful 
 chemicals, such as boron. 
 
 Time to plant. From mid- 
 January on into February is the 
 best time to plant roses in California — 
 or for as long as healthy, dormant (leaf- 
 less) bushes can be purchased. Bushes 
 planted as early as December have more 
 trouble with dieback than do those 
 planted later. 
 
 Grades of nursery plants. Many 
 nurseries sell roses according to grade: 
 No. 1 (large), No. \y 2 (medium), No. 
 2 (small). The amount of growth in 
 each grade varies somewhat with the 
 vigor of a particular variety. Vigorous 
 varieties in No. 1 grade usually have 
 two 18-inch canes; in No. \y 2 , two 14- 
 inch canes; in No. 2, one strong cane or 
 two 10-inch canes. Weaker varieties 
 should have three canes in No. 1 grade; 
 two 12-inch in No. 1 l / 2 ; one strong cane 
 or two 10-inch in No. 2. 
 
 Some vigorous roses, such as Dorothy 
 Perkins and I liawatha, may have four 
 24-inch canes in the No. 1 grade. 
 
 I [ybrid perpetual roses and other very 
 
 vigorous types may have three canes 20 
 inches long in No. 1 grade. Weak vari- 
 eties in this and similar classes may have 
 only 16-inch canes in No. 1 grade, 12- 
 inch in No. \y 2 , and 10-inch in No. 2. 
 Polyanthas should have four 10-inch 
 canes in No. 1 grade, three 8-inch in No. 
 1 Y 2 , and two 6-inch in No. 2. 
 
 Climbers in No. 1 grade usually have 
 three canes 24 inches long; in No. \ l / 2 , 
 two 18-inch canes; in No. 2, one strong 
 cane or two 12-inch canes. 
 
 Containers. Bare-root plants are sold 
 in the nurseries from December 
 until new growth pushes out. 
 After new growth appears, the 
 nurseryman usually pots the 
 unsold plants, often trimming 
 back the roots to fit the plant 
 into the container. For plant- 
 ing in January and February, a 
 No. 1 grade bare-root plant has 
 no superior. Later in the year you will 
 probably have to buy roses in containers. 
 Such plants rarely equal No. 1 bare-root 
 plants sold from December to early Feb- 
 ruary. 
 
 Small rose plants are often sold in 
 cartons in supermarkets and variety 
 stores. Such plants should prove satis- 
 factory for their grade unless they are 
 held too long before being planted. 
 Those of No. 1 grade are usually supe- 
 rior to No. V/ 2 or No. 2 when sold at 
 the normal season. Examine the plants 
 at time of purchase to be sure that they 
 are in good condition. 
 
 Condition of nursery plants. Nur- 
 serymen attempt to keep their rose 
 bushes in good condition, ready for 
 planting on delivery. Bushes are some- 
 times coated with wax to prevent exces- 
 sive drying, and are usually shipped 
 while they are dormant, with the bare 
 roots snugly wrapped in moist sphag- 
 
num moss. It is important that the bush 
 be dormant and the tissues plump at 
 time of planting. If the tissues are 
 severely dried out, the bark will be 
 shriveled. Occasionally, through no fault 
 of the nurseryman, a bush dries out 
 before planting. In such a bush, growth 
 may be slow, or may not start at all 
 without special treatment. Either soak 
 the roots in water or, better still, cover 
 the plant with moist soil for several 
 days — even for a week or more — until 
 the tissues have taken up the normal 
 amount of moisture. 
 
 Bushes with bare roots should be set 
 out well in advance of the appearance of 
 new growth. 
 
 Depth of planting. Too-deep plant- 
 ing results in weak lateral growth. 
 (Eastern growers often plant roses very 
 deep to keep the canes above the bud 
 union from being killed in freezing 
 weather, but this is not necessary in 
 California.) Soil should not cover the 
 stem more than 2 inches above the bud 
 union, which should be about even with 
 the surface of the ground after the soil 
 is settled. The best new canes will de- 
 velop close to the bud union if the bush 
 
 is not planted too deep. Measure depth 
 after irrigation, when the soil has settled. 
 
 Supporting the bush. Tie all stand- 
 ard or tree roses to stakes so that the 
 canes will not break in a strong wind. 
 Support must also be provided for climb- 
 ing roses — a wall, lattice, or fence, 
 depending on your preference and on 
 local conditions. 
 
 Transplanting. To transplant a 
 rose bush or set out one that has been 
 balled or kept in a can until after growth 
 has started, be sure that the soil around 
 the roots, or in the can or ball, is moder- 
 ately damp so that it will not crumble 
 and expose the roots. Prune back and 
 thin out the top to counteract any loss 
 of roots. If the weather is hot, protect 
 the plant from sunburn for a few days 
 with burlap or some other covering. 
 This will help the bush get a good start 
 in the new location. 
 
 Replacing declining plants. With 
 proper care, a good rose bush may be 
 expected to produce satisfactory flowers 
 for about 15 years or longer. In time, 
 however, the bush may decline, making 
 replacement necessary. Replacement 
 may also be desirable for a change of 
 
 Firm the soil around the stem at plant- 
 ing so that the bush will stand as deep 
 as it stood in the nursery. 
 
 Until the bush has become well estab- 
 lished, leave a basin around the plant for 
 irrigation water. 
 
 **^^^^SC = ^^ymm 
 
interest in the rose garden. New and 
 better rose varieties are constantly being 
 introduced, many of them considered 
 superior to those grown 25 or 30 years 
 ago. Some are also more resistant to 
 powdery mildew (p. 23) than are the 
 older ones. 
 
 When declining plants are removed, 
 
 do not replace them until the cause of 
 decline is known. In addition to aging, 
 decline may be caused by oak root 
 fungus, excessive alkali, or other prob 
 lems that require soil treatment before 
 replanting is safe. Poor growth of canes 
 even when no pests or diseases are 
 present may indicate a soil problem. 
 
 IRRIGATING 
 
 oses cannot grow in a dry soil. They 
 Xgneed a moderate amount of soil mois- 
 ^ture throughout their root zone. 
 
 Type of irrigation. Water may be 
 applied in furrows between rows, in 
 basins around each plant, or by over- 
 head sprinkling. 
 
 Furrow irrigation is often the most 
 economical method if the land is reason- 
 ably level. On very sloping ground, run 
 the furrows at right angles to the slope 
 — a moderate drop of 4 to 6 inches in 
 100 feet for clay or loam, 10 to 12 inches 
 in 100 feet for sandy soils. 
 
 Before the bush becomes well estab- 
 lished, leave a basin around the plant for 
 irrigation water. If the soil takes water 
 
 readily, the basin will not be needed 
 after the plant is established, but if the 
 soil is heavy, the basin must be perma- 
 nent. 
 
 Overhead sprinkling should be done 
 early enough in the day so that the foli- 
 age dries quickly. To insure that water 
 penetrates the soil to a uniform depth, 
 set the sprinkler heads so that water 
 will overlap by half the diameter of the 
 circle made by each sprinkler. 
 
 Frequency of irrigation. Sandy 
 soils do not retain any large amount of 
 available water for very long, and must 
 be irrigated once every four to 10 days. 
 During hot weather, this may have to 
 be increased to twice a week. Loam 
 
 Run a gentle stream of water around the 
 plant until the ground is wet down to at 
 least 2 feet. 
 
 
Sutter's Gold, a bright 
 yellow, fragrant, bush type, 
 was an All-America selection 
 in 1950. 
 
 soils, which retain more moisture than 
 do sandy soils, need irrigation every 
 eight to 15 days in summer. Clay soils, 
 with large water-holding capacity, may 
 need irrigation only every 15 to 30 days. 
 
 Too frequent or too light watering 
 encourages a shallow root system — not 
 desirable for roses. 
 
 Depth of irrigation. Water should 
 run long enough to wet down all the 
 root zone. This will usually mean to a 
 depth of 2 feet. Do not add more water 
 until the roots have used most of the 
 available moisture. Soil moisture should 
 vary between the point of full capacity 
 and the point at which the leaves begin 
 to wilt. If the soil is not wet down to full 
 root depth at irrigation, it might just as 
 well not be wet at all. 
 
 One cubic inch of water will wet 
 directly down about 12 inches in sandy 
 soils. In loam soils it will wet 6 to 10 
 inches down, and in clay, 4 to 5 inches. 
 To wet soil to a depth of 2 feet in an 
 area 10 by 10 feet will require 125 gal- 
 lons of water in sandy soils, 190 gallons 
 in loam, and about 330 gallons in clay. 
 
 SOIL CONDITION AND FERTILIZING 
 
 oils in most California gardens require 
 very litrie fertilizer. Application of 1 
 or 2 inches of barnyard manure in late 
 fall or early spring will supply enough 
 nitrogen to keep bushes in good health 
 and produce high-quality roses. This or- 
 ganic material will help make available 
 to the plant nutrient elements already 
 present in the soil. Manure is, however, 
 a more expensive source of nitrogen 
 than are commercial nitrogen fertilizers. 
 A commercial fertilizer containing 6 
 per cent nitrogen, 10 per cent phos- 
 phoric acid, and 4 per cent potash 
 
 should keep roses in good growing con- 
 dition. 
 
 To apply fertilizer: Dig properly 
 aged barnyard manure into the soil 
 around each bush once or twice either 
 in the fall or early spring, at a depth of 
 about 2 inches. 
 
 If a commercial fertilizer is used, ap- 
 ply it in a circle about 8 inches out from 
 the trunk of the plant. This fertilizer 
 is much stronger than manure, and 
 should not be applied too close to the 
 plant. Mix it carefully with the soil. 
 
 Water thoroughly after applying 
 
 // 
 
either type of fertilizer. 
 
 Too much nitrogen fertilizer may 
 sometimes result in a plant deformity 
 resembling "bull nose" (see p. 18). Such 
 a reaction is especially likely to happen 
 early in the year. 
 
 Mineral Deficiencies 
 
 Nitrogen is the element most likely 
 to be deficient in California soils, al- 
 though some may also show a slight 
 phosphorus deficiency. Most California 
 soils are high in potassium. 
 
 A deficiency in any one nutrient will 
 affect growth of the plant as a whole. 
 
 The following list of plant symptoms 
 will help you determine whether your 
 soil needs a fertilizer supplement. 
 
 Nitrogen. Too little nitrogen results 
 in yellowing of leaves and small, light- 
 colored flowers. Growth is usually not 
 so stunted as in lime-induced chlorosis. 
 
 Phosphorus. Older leaves may drop 
 without turning yellow. Stems are 
 
 weakened and bud development is 
 slowed because of a smaller root system. 
 
 Potassium. If the soil is deficient in 
 potassium, the stems of the roses may 
 be weak, and even die back somewhat. 
 Leaves may develop brown edges. 
 
 Iron. Deficiency first shows as light 
 yellowing in tips of leaves. In time, the 
 whole area becomes yellow except the 
 larger veins, which remain dark green. 
 Application of an iron chelate may help 
 overcome iron deficiency. 
 
 Manganese. As with iron deficiency, 
 leaves turn yellow, but even the smallest 
 veins remain green. Damage is most 
 pronounced in the top of the plant. 
 Spraying with a solution of manganese 
 sulfate at the rate of about 4/5 ounce 
 to a gallon of water may help overcome 
 this deficiency. 
 
 Excess Alkali or Lime 
 
 Some soils are too high in alkali or in 
 lime, and such excesses interfere with 
 
 Mme. Butterfly is a 
 pink hybrid tea with 
 a sweet fragrance. 
 
Christian Dior, a red-and- 
 scarlet hybrid tea, was in- 
 troduced in 1962 as an 
 All-America selection. 
 
 the availability of iron from the soil, 
 which is necessary to the plant. When 
 too much lime is present, the plants 
 develop a condition known as lime-in- 
 duced chlorosis. The main symptom is 
 yellowing of the leaves regardless of 
 whether or not they are shaded by other 
 growth. If other nearby plants, as well 
 as the roses, show chlorotic (yellowed) 
 leaves, too much lime in the soil is prob- 
 ably the cause. (Certain virus diseases 
 may also cause similar symptoms, but 
 the leaves may become yellow only in 
 
 spots, and not all plants in an area may 
 be affected, as with chlorosis.) 
 
 Soil that has too much alkali must 
 be washed by heavy irrigation to re- 
 move soluble sodium and potassium, 
 and chlorine. Addition of sulfur at 
 about 1 pound to 40 square feet will 
 help make the alkali salts more soluble, 
 and easier to wash out. Alkali soils may 
 be helped by improved drainage. 
 
 Roses grown on Ragged Robin root- 
 stock (see p. 18) seem to be most re- 
 sistant to alkaline soil. 
 
 13 
 
Isobel, a coppery-pink single. 
 
 WEED CONTROL 
 
 r ^xi'lc^ EEDS ma Y De controlled by tilling the 
 ?<c>i6V ground around the rose bushes, but 
 excessive tillage can result in loss of soil 
 moisture. Where annual weeds are a 
 problem, they may be controlled by 
 light oil sprays, which are sold under 
 various trade names. Follow the manu- 
 facturer's directions for use of such 
 sprays. 
 
 PROPAGATION 
 
 How and When to 
 \\v^ Take Cuttings 
 
 n California, dormant roses are often 
 ready for cuttings to be taken by De- 
 cember. In areas with very mild win- 
 ters, however, growth may continue and 
 leaves stay green all winter. Try to se- 
 lect cuttings that are completely dor- 
 mant, because it is much more difficult 
 to root cuttings that still have some 
 green leaves. If any leaves do remain, 
 remove them. 
 
 Select mature cuttings from the pasl 
 season's growth. A cutting about as 
 thick as a lead pencil should Ix: suffi- 
 ciently mature by early December. It 
 
 may be 6 to 8 inches long. Cut so that 
 the tip cut will be about l A inch beyond 
 a bud. Cut the base about ! /4 inch be- 
 low a bud. Some growers prefer to make 
 a slanting cut rather than straight across. 
 Roots arise best near a node (the area 
 close to the base of a leaf); the bud 
 forms in the leaf axil. Since suckering 
 may occur on rose cuttings, it is best to 
 cut out all buds found on the base of 
 the cane that is to be inserted into the 
 rooting medium. 
 
 Rooting Medium 
 
 ("lean, sharp sand has long been the 
 favorite medium for rooting rose cut- 
 
 / / 
 
tings. A mixture of sand and peat is 
 also very satisfactory, but sand should 
 predominate in the mixture. Cuttings 
 may also root well in a good loam soil. 
 
 How to Plant 
 
 A dormant rose cutting will in time 
 develop new growth from the buds. 
 This new growth must have not only a 
 suitable temperature and adequate mois- 
 ture and air around the roots, but also 
 enough light for normal growth. The 
 first stage in callusing and rooting can 
 take place with considerable shade, but 
 in time all rooted rose cuttings should 
 have full sunlight. 
 
 The amateur rose grower will prob- 
 ably not find conditions for rooting cut- 
 tings as suitable in the open garden, 
 where the roses will finally be grown, 
 as in a special propagating box, al- 
 though commercial growers do very 
 well by rooting cuttings in the field. 
 
 If there is a well-drained place in the 
 garden, where rose cuttings can be 
 rooted easily, such a place may be 
 chosen, instead of a propagating box 
 with rooting medium. If drainage is 
 poor, or if the base of the cuttings can- 
 not be kept moderately moist all through 
 the rooting period, there is not much 
 use in trying to root cuttings. Moisture 
 and temperature for good callusing (see 
 below) can be regulated much more 
 easily in sand than in an open garden. 
 If planting is done in the open gar- 
 den, the cuttings are usually set fairly 
 close, at intervals of 4 to 6 inches, to 
 conserve space. Cuttings that have been 
 taken from the desired variety should 
 stand in place for the first growing sea- 
 son if possible, before being moved to 
 a permanent position. Most rooted cut- 
 tings that are to be budded to another 
 variety (see pp. 16-17) are left for a year 
 or two, at which time they should be 
 ready to bud. 
 
 4 Leave some 
 buds here 
 
 ^ 
 
 I Bury two-thirds 
 of the cutting 
 
 Two buds have been left exposed at top of cutting (left). 
 Cutting at right has callused and rooted satisfactorily. 
 
 V 
 
Cuttings rooted in a propagating box 
 can be transplanted to the permanent 
 location as soon as the roots are well 
 started. 
 
 Watering Cuttings 
 
 Cuttings rooted in the open garden 
 will probably need little water because 
 the California rainy season continues 
 from October to March or April, by 
 which time the cuttings should be 
 rooted. 
 
 Cuttings rooted in propagating boxes 
 may require some water so that the base 
 of the cuttings will remain wet until 
 rooting has started or been completed, 
 depending on how long the cuttings are 
 to remain in the box. 
 
 Examine the rooting medium, and 
 apply water only when the need is evi- 
 dent below the surface. Watering every 
 few days during the winter months 
 when the cuttings are under glass should 
 prove satisfactory. 
 
 Callusing 
 
 When conditions of heat, moisture, 
 and oxygen are favorable, a rose cutting 
 inserted into the rooting medium will 
 form white callus tissue over the cut. 
 This tissue helps prevent infection of 
 the woody part of the cutting base. The 
 conditions that favor the production of 
 callus cells also favor root formation. 
 The formation of a good callus over 
 the basal cut on a rose cutting indicates 
 
 Steps to Follow in Budding 
 
 A\ 
 
 ik 
 
 I . Select a plump bud from 
 the mother plant. Cut it 
 out, with a sharp knife, 
 hiking some hark above 
 and below it. 
 
 2. Cut a T-shaped slit 
 about •% inch long in the 
 bark of the plant that is 
 to receive the graft. 
 
 ?. Pry open the slit care- 
 fully and insert the bud 
 graft gently so that all its 
 surrounding bark is under 
 the slit, and only the bud 
 itself is exposed. 
 
 16 
 
that the cutting is in a vigorous condi- 
 tion and that external conditions are 
 also favorable for root formation. 
 
 A temperature of about 40° to 57° F 
 in the rooting medium should prove 
 quite satisfactory for callusing rose cut- 
 tings. Usually the temperature should 
 remain below 69° F. Good callusing 
 can be achieved in either sand or a mix- 
 ture of peat and sand. 
 
 Provide enough water to form a film 
 about the base of the cutting. Too much 
 water reduces the amount of air that 
 reaches the callus area. Air containing 
 some carbon dioxide provides good aera- 
 tion for rooting cuttings. 
 
 Optimum root formation may take 
 place at a slightly different temperature 
 from that at which callus tissue forms. 
 
 Roots form independent of the callus, 
 in the inner cambium, a layer beneath 
 the bark, next to the wood. Excessive 
 callus can retard root formation, but 
 within the upper range of temperature 
 given above, roots should form satis- 
 factorily. 
 
 Budding 
 
 Budding is a method of propagation 
 used extensively by nurserymen as an 
 economical way of developing new 
 plants and of insuring plants on good 
 rootstocks. Practically all roses from 
 commercial nurseries are budded. 
 
 The amateur grower can also bud 
 roses successfully by following a few 
 simple procedures. Because this method 
 
 4. Bind the bud in place with rubber, raf- 
 fia, or string. (No waxing material is neces- 
 sary.) Remove this wrapping once the bud 
 is established. Do not allow it to cut into 
 the bark. 
 
 5. When the bud has taken, cut the cane 
 into which it was inserted to about l A inch 
 above the bud. 
 
 17 
 
involves considerable time before flow- 
 ering plants are produced, however, 
 many gardeners prefer to buy plants al- 
 ready established. 
 
 If the variety you wish to propagate 
 is already on a good rootstock, budding 
 is not necessary. You may simply get 
 new plants from cuttings, as described 
 above. 
 
 If the parent plant is on a less vigorous 
 or disease-resistant rootstock than de- 
 sired, you may take buds from it and 
 graft them to a rooted cutting from a 
 variety with a desirable rootstock. 
 
 Budding can only be done success- 
 fully while the bark separates readily 
 from the wood and while plump buds 
 are available. 
 
 If the graft takes, the bud will be 
 green three or four weeks after grafting. 
 
 Budding may be done in June or Au- 
 gust. Buds inserted as late as August 
 or early September remain dormant 
 over the winter and can be forced into 
 active growth at the start of the growing 
 season. 
 
 Rootstocks 
 
 The rootstock of a rose variety is im- 
 portant because it has a great influence 
 on the behavior of most roses. Although 
 not all nurseries list the rootstock on 
 which their varieties are propagated, 
 many do so. 
 
 Some of the rootstocks that have 
 proved successful are those of Dr. Huey, 
 Rosa multifiora, R. odorata, R. manetti, 
 and Ragged Robin. Many roses on R. 
 odorata rootstock, however, may not be 
 able to survive in areas of very cold 
 winters. 
 
 Hybrid tea or similar roses budded 
 on these stocks have a good chance for 
 vigorous growth if the rootstock is not 
 more than one or two years old, and 
 not excessively vigorous for the variety 
 being propagated on it. The understock 
 should not be too large for the top. An 
 extremely vigorous rootstock may cause 
 the flower buds to be blunt and de- 
 formed, a condition sometimes known 
 as "bull nose." 
 
 m 
 
 (g£fj^, phids and plant lice. Two aphids 
 ^$^jj are common pests on roses. The rose 
 aphid (Macrosiphum rosae) is a large 
 green or pink species infesting the grow- 
 ing tips and buds. The small green rose 
 aphid (Myzaphis rosarum) works on 
 all parts of the plant, particularly on the 
 undersides of the leaves. There it pro- 
 duces quantities of honeydew on which 
 grows a black, sooty mold fungus. 
 
 Aphids are easily killed with sprays 
 containing either malathion, lindane, or 
 dimethoate, applied directly to the in- 
 
 # This section was revised with the help <>! 
 
 C. S. Davis and J. E. Swift, Agriculturists, 
 Agricultural Extension, Berkeley. 
 
 INSECT PESTS* 
 
 sects, in a fine mist, from any good hand 
 sprayer. 
 
 Early in the season, before the roses 
 are in bloom, these aphids may be 
 washed off with the hose every two or 
 three days. Washing is best done early 
 enough in the day so that the foliage 
 will dry quickly. 
 
 Borers. The flat-headed apple tree 
 borer {Chrysobothris mali), and others, 
 may infest badly sunburned rose bushes. 
 If a bush starts to die back in spite of 
 good soil and watering, borers may be 
 causing the injury. These pests are not 
 serious if the bushes are properly cared 
 tor alter planting. 
 
 IH 
 
The rose aphid is a large green or pink 
 insect that infests growing tips and buds, 
 often congregating in large numbers. 
 
 Fuller rose beetle or weevil. The 
 
 Fuller rose beetle (Pantomorus god- 
 mani) is a gray, wingless beetle, about 
 Ys inch long, which eats around the leaf 
 edges of roses and certain other plants. 
 It is not abundant in most gardens. For 
 
 effective control, dust the entire plant 
 with cryolite, or spray with DDT, lin- 
 dane, or malathion. 
 
 Raspberry horntail. This insect 
 (Hartigia cressoni) is also a borer. It 
 attacks the growing tips on climbing 
 roses in some of the warm interior val- 
 leys, but rarely does serious damage. 
 Cut off the wilted tips containing the 
 larvae, and burn them, to prevent fur- 
 ther injury. Dig up all badly infested 
 host plants and destroy them before new 
 growth starts in the spring. No spray 
 is effective in control. 
 
 Red, or two-spotted, spider mite. 
 The two-spotted mite (Tetranychus bi- 
 maculatus) may cause a considerable 
 amount of damage to rose foliage under 
 greenhouse conditions, and to roses in 
 
 The Fuller rose beetle. 
 
 Raspberry horntail larvae and adults. Females, left; males, right. 
 
 %: 
 
 ■%W 
 
 19 
 
The two-spotted spider mite (an adult 
 female). 
 
 the garden during the summer months. 
 Spider mites can be seen only with the 
 aid of a magnifying glass. Yellowing of 
 the leaves in spots may be caused by 
 spider mite injury. 
 
 Frequent hosing of the leaves will 
 control most of these mites. Aramite 
 and Kelthane are effective spray mate- 
 rials. If possible, eliminate other host 
 plants harboring these mites. 
 
 Rose scale. The presence of rose 
 scale {Aulacaspis rosae) is indicated by 
 the white, flattened, hard bodies of these 
 insects on the older rose canes. For effec- 
 tive control, cut out all of the older canes 
 without leaving any stub, and prune 
 any bush berries nearby that may also 
 be infested with the scale. A winter- 
 strength oil spray or oil plus malathion 
 or Diazinon may be safely applied 
 where necessary. 
 
 Rose slug. The bristly rose slug 
 (Cladius isomerus) infests roses more 
 frequently in the San Francisco Bay 
 area than in any other section of Cali- 
 fornia. It is a yellowish-green, bristly, 
 wormlike insect that eats holes from the 
 undersides of the leaves, beginning 
 about May, tor as long as green leaves 
 appear. The adult resembles a small 
 wasp, and lays its eggs on the under 
 
 sides of the petioles. The insects may 
 continue to appear from May through 
 the summer until early fall. 
 
 Where the rose slug is troublesome, 
 spray the rose leaves two or three times 
 during the season, starting about the 
 first of May. Lead arsenate spray is ef- 
 fective, but leaves a gray residue on 
 the foliage. This residue is less objec- 
 tionable if the first application is de- 
 layed until most of the first crop of 
 roses has been cut. 
 
 DDT, Lindane, and malathion sprays 
 are very effective and leave little or no 
 visible residue. Spray first about May, 
 or when the rose slugs begin to eat the 
 leaves. A second application will usually 
 be needed in early July to protect the 
 leaves that have come out since spring. 
 
 Rose snout beetle or rose cur- 
 culio. The red-and-black rose beetle 
 
 (Rhynchites bicolor)^ about 
 
 inch 
 
 long, may begin to puncture holes in the 
 stems or buds starting to develop in the 
 early summer. The sprays used to con- 
 trol the rose slug will help control the 
 
 Holes were made by the 
 yellowish-green, worm- 
 like rose slug. 
 
 20 
 
Stems and buds damaged by holes made 
 by the rose snout beetle (rose curculio). 
 (Photo from Essig: Insects of Western 
 North America. Courtesy The Macmillan 
 Company.) 
 
 snout beetle. Hand picking, or shaking 
 the beetles off into a pan of oil may be 
 adequate where only a few are present. 
 
 Thrips. The flower or grass thrips 
 (Frankjiniella spp.) sometimes appears 
 on unfolding rose buds. The DDT and 
 malathion sprays used to control rose 
 slugs are also effective against flower 
 thrips. An application once every 10 
 days or two weeks during the early 
 growing season should be adequate. 
 Each application should wet the under- 
 sides of the leaves completely. 
 
 Other insects. Certain other insects, 
 such as the leafhopper, may occasion- 
 ally cause damage, but they are of minor 
 importance. The rose leafhopper (Ty- 
 phocyba rosae) is reported to have 
 caused some damage in the San Joaquin 
 Valley. In the San Francisco Bay area, 
 the blue sharpshooter (Cicadella circel- 
 lata) is often found on rose leaves, but 
 does not seem to cause much damage. 
 DDT and malathion sprays are useful 
 in control. Apply the spray to the foli- 
 age, beginning in May, and repeat about 
 once a month for two or three months. 
 
 Far left: adult female 
 flower thrips (Frank- 
 liiiiella moultoni). 
 heft: full-grown larva. 
 Detail shows spines 
 at tip of abdomen. 
 
 21 
 
DISEASES* 
 
 Fungus Diseases 
 
 rmillaria root rot, also known as oak- 
 root fungus or mushroom root rot, is 
 caused by the mushroom-producing 
 fungus Armillaria mellea. The fungus 
 enters the plant through the roots and 
 grows under the bark, killing the tissue 
 as it advances. The most reliable indica- 
 tion that the trouble is caused by Armil- 
 liaria is the presence of white or cream- 
 colored, fan-shaped fungus between the 
 bark and wood, and in the roots and 
 trunk beneath the soil. 
 
 Roses are susceptible to Armillaria, 
 and should not be planted in soil known 
 to be infected. If bushes already grow- 
 ing become infected, they should be de- 
 stroyed and replaced by some other or- 
 namental known to be resistant. (For 
 a list of plants susceptible and resistant 
 to Armillaria, write to: Public Service, 
 229 University Hall, Berkeley 4, Cali- 
 fornia.) 
 
 Blackspot, caused by the fungus 
 Diplocarpon rosae, is found occasion- 
 ally in the moist coastal areas of the 
 state, and almost never in the dry inte- 
 rior valleys. It is, however, one of the 
 most serious diseases of roses in areas of 
 the country where summer rainfall oc- 
 curs. 
 
 The fungus produces black spots with 
 fringed margins, on the upper surface 
 of the leaves. Yellowed areas develop 
 around the spots, and infected leaves 
 usually fall. 
 
 Blackspot can be controlled by captan, 
 lolpet, and the same fungicides that 
 control rust. 
 
 * This section was prepared by A. II. Mc- 
 Cain, Associate Agriculturist in Agricultural 
 Extension, Berkeley, and R. I). Raabe, Assoc 1 
 ,it< Professor of Plant Patholog) and Associate 
 Plant Pathologist m the Experiment Station, 
 Berkeh . 
 
 Rose root infected with Armillaria root 
 rot. Note white spots on bark. 
 
 Blackspot disease shows in irregular, 
 dark-brown or black spots which increase 
 in size until most of the leaf surface is 
 affected. This disease usually causes pre- 
 mature leaf drop. 
 
 22 
 
Canker. Several different fungi can 
 infect rose canes at the soil surface and 
 through openings caused by injuries 
 and pruning wounds. As a result, brown 
 cankers, sometimes with gray centers, 
 develop on the affected parts, and the 
 branch may wilt or die. A basal canker 
 may weaken growth of the whole plant. 
 
 The canker disease fungi produce 
 many spores, which are spread in water. 
 Consequently, infection usually occurs 
 during wet periods. 
 
 Prune off infected parts, always cut- 
 ting just above a bud. Cover the cut 
 ends with a wound-sealing compound. 
 Keep the plants growing vigorously by 
 proper fertilization and water. 
 
 Powdery mildew, caused by the 
 fungus Sphaerotheca pannosa var. rosae, 
 is found in practically every part of Cali- 
 fornia. Because reduced light favors its 
 growth, mildew is more prevalent in 
 shady locations and coastal areas. It at- 
 
 tacks the leaves, buds, and shoots of sus- 
 ceptible varieties, usually distorting their 
 growth. The fungus is visible as a white 
 to gray powdery growth on the leaves 
 and other green parts of the plant. 
 
 Powdery mildew can be controlled 
 by frequent sprays or dusts of sulfur, 
 cycloheximide, dinocap, and some other 
 fungicides. 
 
 Rust on roses is caused by the fungus 
 Phragmidium mucronatum. Small or- 
 ange pustules containing powdery 
 spores form on the undersides of the 
 leaves. In the autumn, these spores are 
 replaced by overwintering black spores. 
 Fungus spores may be airborne a con- 
 siderable distance by wind. 
 
 On some rose varieties that are more 
 
 Powdery mildew, a com- 
 mon rose disease, shows 
 as a white to gray, pow- 
 dery growth on the 
 leaves. 
 
 23 
 
susceptible to the disease than others, 
 only one or two pustules on a leaf may 
 cause it to turn yellow and fall. 
 
 The foliage can be protected from in- 
 fection by spraying at seven- to 10-day 
 intervals with zineb, maneb, or ferbam. 
 The sprays will not kill rust already 
 present, but will keep spores from ger- 
 minating and further infecting the 
 leaves. 
 
 Verticillium wilt is caused by the 
 fungus Verticillium albo-atrum, which 
 is soil-borne and capable of surviving 
 in the soil for 10 or more years. Many 
 different kinds of plants are attacked, es- 
 pecially chrysanthemum, cotton, night- 
 shade weed, pepper, potato, strawberry, 
 and tomato. Soil in which any of these 
 crops have been planted is likely to be 
 infested with the fungus, and should 
 not be used for roses. 
 
 Infected rose plants lose the leaves 
 on one or more shoots, which then die 
 back from the tip. New shoots may arise 
 from the base, but the plant rarely 
 makes a complete recovery. 
 
 Most rose rootstocks are susceptible, 
 and there is no cure for infected plants. 
 However, Rosa manetti rootstock is re- 
 sistant to most strains of the fungus, 
 and where the disease occurs, roses on 
 this rootstock should be used. 
 
 Soil fumigation is the only method 
 for eliminating the fungus from the soil. 
 Fumigation must be done only by a 
 licensed pest control operator trained in 
 the use of the hazardous chemical 
 (chloropicrin) involved. 
 
 Bacterial Disease 
 
 Crown gall is caused by the bac- 
 terium Agrobacterium tumefaciens. 
 Rough galls or overgrowths result from 
 infection through wounds on the roots 
 and crown of the plant. Occasionally 
 parts aboveground also become infected. 
 Many kinds of plants are susceptible to 
 crown gall, and the bacterium can sur- 
 vive in the soil for several years. 
 
 The disease cannot be controlled by 
 breaking off the galls since they will 
 
 Rose leaves affected by rust, a fungus 
 disease. Leaf at left shows powdery 
 spores on underside. 
 
 24 
 

 infected plants show various patterns 
 and blotches of yellow tissue. Although 
 the virus is present in all parts of the 
 plant, usually not all of the leaves dis- 
 play the symptoms. The disease is trans- 
 mitted vegetatively, when grafting or 
 budding is done. Try to avoid using 
 stock that transmits this virus. Unlike 
 many other plant viruses, the rose 
 viruses are not known to be spread by 
 insects. 
 
 There is no known cure for infected 
 plants. Fortunately, the growth of most 
 virus-infected roses is not severely af- 
 fected. 
 
 Root of rose plant infected by crown 
 gall, a bacterial disease. Such plants 
 should be removed from the rose garden. 
 
 usually develop again at the same place. 
 Avoid wounding plants at the soil line. 
 Do not buy or plant roses infected by 
 crown gall. Remove any infected plants 
 from the rose garden. 
 
 Virus Disease 
 
 Mosaic is a virus disease. Symptoms 
 vary with the rose variety and the par- 
 ticular rose virus involved. Leaves of 
 
 Mosaic, a virus disease, may be carried 
 from the rootstock to other parts of 
 the plant. Infected leaves show yellow 
 blotches. 
 
 THE SPRAY AND DUST PROGRAM 
 
 Timing 
 
 he times recommended for spraying 
 and dusting have been carefully deter- 
 mined so that they are either best for 
 control or safest for the plant. Follow 
 the recommended schedules closely for 
 satisfactory results. 
 
 Coverage 
 
 When spraying, wet the limbs, twigs, 
 and foliage thoroughly for good control 
 of insects, mites, and diseases. Keep the 
 spray mixture stirred, especially one 
 containing chemicals that tend to settle 
 rapidly (for example, zineb). 
 
 25 
 
Equipment 
 
 For sprays, compressed-air spray 
 tanks, knapsack sprayers, bucket pumps, 
 and trombone-type sprayers are satisfac- 
 tory. For dusting, use the ready-made 
 equipment in which many of the dusts 
 are sold, or any other mechanical device 
 adequate for the job. Apply dusts uni- 
 formly but lightly; heavy visible de- 
 posits are unnecessary, and may injure 
 some plants. 
 
 Dosages 
 
 Formulations of materials for use by 
 the amateur rose grower are available 
 under many trade names and various 
 concentrations. Before using the mate- 
 rials, be certain to read the label and 
 follow directions for use carefully. Use 
 only the amount recommended. 
 
 Combination Sprays 
 
 Gardeners with only a few rose plants 
 may prefer to buy a trade product 
 formulated as a combination spray. 
 Most of these sprays are effective because 
 they contain materials to control insects, 
 mites, and diseases. 
 
 The powdery mildew fungicides, cy- 
 cloheximide, dinocap, and sulfur, are 
 compatible with the rust and blackspot 
 fungicides, captan, folpet, ferbam, 
 maneb, and zineb. Where powdery mil- 
 dew and rust or blackspot occur to- 
 gether, a combination spray of one of 
 the powdery mildew fungicides and one 
 of the rust fungicides may be conveni- 
 ent. 
 
 All of the above-mentioned fungicides 
 are generally compatible with most in- 
 secticides, such as DDT, lindane, mala- 
 thion, and methoxychlor. It would be 
 possible to apply a combined powdery 
 mildew, rust, blackspot, and insect 
 spray, but the fungicides and probably 
 the insecticides would have reduced ef- 
 fectiveness. Combination sprays should 
 be used only when necessary. 
 
 Fungicides 
 
 Fungicides are available under nu- 
 merous trade names. In some instances 
 the trade name is the same as the generic 
 name, which is a shortened version of 
 the active chemical ingredient in the 
 product. The list below gives the generic 
 
 Pinocchio is a salmon- 
 
 and-pink floribunda 
 
 with a delightful 
 
 fragrance. 
 
name, chemical, and some of the trade 
 names under which the formulation is 
 sold. 
 
 Because of the large numbers of com- 
 mercial fungicides available, it is un- 
 
 avoidable that similar products under 
 other trade names may not be cited. No 
 endorsement of named products is in- 
 tended, nor is criticism implied of simi- 
 lar products not mentioned. 
 
 GENERIC 
 NAME 
 
 CHEMICAL 
 
 TRADE 
 NAMES 
 
 captan 
 
 cycloheximitle 
 
 dinocap 
 
 ferbam 
 
 folpet 
 maneb 
 
 ineb 
 
 N-Trichloromethylmercapto-4-cyclohexine- 
 1,2-dicarboximicle 
 
 Beta [2-(3,5-dimethyl-2-oxycyclohexyl)- 
 2-hydroxycthyl] -glutarimide 
 
 Dinitro (i-mcthylheptyl) phenyl crotonate 
 
 Ferric dimethvldithiocarbamate 
 
 N-Trichloromethylthiophthalimide 
 
 Manganese ethylenebisdithiocarbamate 
 
 Zinc ethylenebisdithiocarbamate 
 
 Captan 
 Orthocide 
 
 Acti-dione PM 
 
 Capryl 
 Doo-Spray 
 Karathane 
 Mildex 
 
 Carbamate 
 Fermate 
 Ferbam 
 Karbam Black 
 
 Phaltan 
 
 Rose and Garden 
 Fungicide 
 
 Dithane M-22 
 
 Maneb 
 
 Manzate 
 
 Dithane Z-78 
 Parzate C 
 Zineb 
 
 PRECAUTIONS FOR THE HANDLING OF PESTICIDES 
 
 Read all labels carefully before using pest- and disease-control materials, and 
 follow the precautions listed. Pesticides are poisonous; store them in locked 
 cabinets away from children and animals. 
 
 Do not stand in the drift or breathe the fumes of pesticides while mixing or 
 spraying them. 
 
 Wash thoroughly, and change clothing after spraying or dusting. 
 
 Do not smoke or eat while applying pesticides. 
 
 Do not remove a pesticide from its original container and store in a soda pop 
 bottle, a bag, or any other container. 
 
 Destroy and properly dispose of empty pesticide containers immediately. 
 
 Left-over spray or dust materials should be immediately disposed of. Do not 
 store them for future use. 
 
 Thoroughly wash and clean spraying equipment after use. 
 
 Do not let sprays drift onto other garden plants that will be eaten by man or 
 animal. Keep sprays and dusts out of fish ponds, birdbaths, and water supplies for 
 animals. Protect nearby evergreen trees and shrubs from the dormant sprays used 
 on rose bushes. Do not use household preparations of DDT or other insecticides 
 on plants; they contain solvents which may injure plants. 
 
 27 
 
PRUNING 
 
 orrect pruning strengthens the plant. 
 Incorrect pruning can be highly destruc- 
 tive. All roses should be pruned at least 
 once a year. 
 
 Canes on most rose bushes can be 
 expected to produce good flowers for 
 four or five years, and occasionally 
 longer. When a cane reaches its limit of 
 good flower production, cut it back 
 right to the ground. If the bush is 
 properly handled, it will develop new 
 canes to replace the old ones. If the old 
 canes are left too long, and 
 insufficient thinning is done, 
 the rose bush may produce so 
 little vigorous new growth that 
 it is scarcely worth keeping. 
 
 The bud or lateral to which 
 the cane is cut back will nor- 
 mally make the most growth 
 in length. An upright bush can 
 be made more spreading by cutting back 
 the outside buds or lateral branches. Or 
 a spreading bush becomes more upright 
 if cut back to about l A inch of inside 
 buds or upright laterals. 
 
 Always use pruning shears with 
 clean, sharp blades. On new, green 
 wood, a sharp knife gives a clean cut 
 with no ragged edges. 
 
 The cut surface normally does not 
 need to be covered. However, if a par- 
 ticular variety tends to show dieback, 
 cover the pruning wounds with a good 
 wound dressing such as one of the cold 
 asphalt materials on the market. 
 
 Winter pruning. The present prac- 
 tice with most varieties is to prune very 
 late in the dormant season — late January 
 rather than in December. This allows 
 a minimum of time between pruning 
 and the first new growth. Some varie- 
 ties have shown more dieback, when 
 
 pruned early, than when pruning was 
 done at the later date. Late pruning also 
 encourages prompt healing of cuts with 
 less danger of infection. 
 
 When the regular dormant season ar- 
 rives, the different flushes of growth 
 made during the year are usually ig- 
 nored. Cut the total annual growth back 
 rather severely to a good side bud low 
 down on the current season's growth, 
 with only one to three buds left on the 
 growth made for the year. Occasionally, 
 more buds may be left on very vigorous 
 roses or on varieties such as 
 Golden Emblem which seems 
 to flower better when the canes 
 are allowed to grow a little 
 longer than usual. 
 
 Summer pruning. This 
 practice should be limited 
 largely to maintaining the 
 shape of the bush since it in- 
 volves cutting back new growth and 
 tends to weaken the plant. Vigorous 
 varieties, such as Belle of Portugal and 
 the hybrid teas, may be summer pruned. 
 The pillar roses also need some prun- 
 ing in summer for good shape. Roses 
 that are being trained or woven about 
 a particular form may need to be short- 
 ened occasionally during the summer 
 months. 
 
 When the first crop of flowers fades, 
 the dead blossoms should be removed. 
 At that time, new growth may also be 
 cut back to strong side buds or laterals. 
 The uppermost buds will form new 
 shoots which, in hybrid tea roses and 
 in certain other everblooming types, will 
 flower in time. When the second crop 
 of flowers has finished the blooming 
 period, the growth may again be short- 
 ened-in by cutting back to strong side 
 buds or laterals. Under this system, 
 
 28 
 
three crops of flowers a year can be pro- 
 duced under favorable conditions. 
 
 Bush roses. Growers often disagree 
 about how to prune bush roses. Grow- 
 ing conditions affect the vigor. of these 
 roses, and, indirectly, the degree of 
 pruning. Many of the roses in central 
 California gardens respond to some- 
 what more severe pruning than do the 
 same varieties in southern California. 
 To say that an established bush rose 
 should be maintained at a height of 
 about 18 inches, or 2 feet, or any other 
 height is purely arbitrary. The height 
 maintained depends on varietal charac- 
 teristics and the conditions under which 
 the bush is grown. 
 
 It may take a few years for the ordi- 
 nary gardener to find out exactly how 
 a given variety responds to a certain 
 type of pruning. He may find that the 
 canes should be left somewhat longer 
 on a very vigorous and upright variety, 
 such as Sutter's Gold, than on a less 
 vigorous one. Furthermore, a floribunda 
 variety, for example, is grown for masses 
 of bloom while most hybrid teas are 
 grown for quality buds or blooms on 
 long stems. Less pruning will encourage 
 
 more blooms, but the size of flowers and 
 length of stem may be poor. 
 
 Remove as much older wood as pos- 
 sible without destroying the shape of 
 the plant. Cut new wood back about 
 half way and to an outside bud or eye. 
 The vigorous new canes that normally 
 push out above the bud union form the 
 framework of the bush and replace any 
 old canes that are removed. (Use a 
 sharp knife to cut the soft new wood, 
 to prevent ragged edges.) 
 
 Roses that have been propagated cor- 
 rectly should not produce suckers below 
 the bud union. If suckers do appear, 
 remove them immediately. 
 
 Many of the polyantha roses, such as 
 Cecile Brunner, are upright in growth 
 habit, and usually support more canes 
 than most of the hybrid tea roses. Con- 
 sequently, their canes are generally not 
 shortened-in so much as those on the 
 latter. Vigorous canes on these upright 
 varieties may develop a cluster of flow- 
 ers. If this happens, cut the cane back 
 to a sound bud just below the cluster. 
 Cecile Brunner should be cut to outside 
 buds to prevent too compact growth. 
 
 Hybrid tea bush roses usually respond 
 
 Mature plant of a hybrid tea 
 rose. Left: before pruning; 
 right: after pruning. 
 
 29 
 
best to moderate to severe pruning. A 
 vigorous rose, such as Autumn, may be 
 pruned moderately and allowed to pro- 
 duce more and longer canes. A rose 
 with a weak growth habit, such as Lady 
 I Iillingdon, must be pruned back se- 
 verely in order to produce the best flow- 
 ering wood. Such differences in vigor, 
 
 Diagram shows how to shorten and thin 
 past season's growth on a standard or 
 tree rose. (Right side not yet pruned.) 
 Small diagram shows top view of stan- 
 dard, with branches properly spaced 
 around trunk. 
 
 and local conditions, will determine 
 how much to prune, both at time of 
 planting and as the bush develops. 
 
 Floribundas and grandifloras. 
 These roses are variable in growth habit 
 since they include both the large-flower- 
 ing polyanthas and the low, compact- 
 growing hybrid teas. These classes must 
 be pruned to encourage the mass color 
 effect for which they are valued. Just 
 enough thinning-out and cutting back 
 is required to encourage production of 
 healthy flowering wood each season. 
 When planted along driveways and 
 walks where there is plenty of room, the 
 floribundas can form 1 airly large bushes 
 that need only a small amount of prun- 
 ing in winter. 
 
 Hie floribundas and grandifloras may 
 
 50 
 
also be pruned a second time during the 
 growing season to keep the long canes 
 in bounds. Some of the vigorous kinds, 
 such as Pinocchio, Cinnabar, Pink 
 Bountiful, Floradora, and the grandi- 
 floras, are sufficiently vigorous to justify 
 only moderate pruning such as that 
 given the hybrid teas. 
 
 Climbing roses. For those climbers 
 that bloom only in the spring, delay 
 pruning until after flowering to insure 
 a maximum number of flowers. The 
 climbing hybrid tea roses that have de- 
 veloped as sports from bush roses will 
 usually flower over a long period of 
 time. Such roses may be pruned moder- 
 ately in the late dormant season. Cut 
 back the side branches or laterals on 
 the long canes to stubs of from one to 
 three buds. Leave most of the length 
 growth of the main canes, however. Do 
 not remove any new canes needed to re- 
 place aging ones. 
 
 A variety such as Belle of Portugal 
 
 may also need a second pruning. How- 
 ever, do not prune these roses in the 
 late dormant season before the plant has 
 flowered. Among a few other climbing 
 roses that will tolerate more than one- 
 pruning a year are Cecile Brunner and 
 Mermaid. In fact, they will tolerate al- 
 most any kind of pruning, including 
 rather heavy shortening-in of length 
 growth or side branches. 
 
 Standard or tree roses. Full stand- 
 ard or tree roses are budded at a height 
 of about 40 inches. The half-standards 
 are budded at about 24 inches. Most 
 growers want a drooping habit of 
 growth, or fountain effect, which gives 
 a rounded head and satisfactory length 
 of flower stem. 
 
 Prune standard roses once each year, 
 late in the dormant season. Leave only 
 one to three buds of the past season's 
 growth on moderately vigorous varie- 
 ties. More cane growth may be left on 
 extremely vigorous standards. 
 
 EXHIBITION BLOOMS 
 
 arious organizations have been formed 
 (Wi to help rose f anc i ers m appraising and 
 selecting varieties. These include the 
 American Rose Society, with headquar- 
 ters in Harrisburg, Pennsylvania; the 
 Pacific Rose Society, La Canada, Cali- 
 fornia; the All-America Rose Selections, 
 Harrisburg; and various local groups 
 affiliated with the national organiza- 
 tions. 
 
 The fact that a rose has been given 
 an All-America award does not neces- 
 sarily mean that it will do well in a 
 particular district in California. For ex- 
 ample, Mirandy won an All-America 
 award in 1945, yet recognized rose fan- 
 ciers pronounce it almost worthless for 
 central California. However, rose varie- 
 ties that are generally successful — espe- 
 
 cially on the Pacific Coast — stand a good 
 chance of being successful in many Cali- 
 fornia gardens. 
 
 Roses for exhibition are rated by the 
 judges on the following points: 
 
 Per cent 
 
 Form or shape 25 
 
 Color 25 
 
 Substance 20 
 
 Stem and foliage 20 
 
 Size 10 
 
 100 
 
 No allowance is given for fragrance in 
 exhibition roses in spite of many grow- 
 ers' preference for the fragrant varieties. 
 Substance, as used in judging roses, 
 means firmness, resistance to touch, or 
 rigidity of petals. Good substance helps 
 the bloom resist unfavorable weather. 
 
 31 
 
Stems on roses to be exhibited must 
 always be debudded. Foliage should be 
 healthy, shiny, and free of mildew, rust, 
 other diseases, and insects. The stem be- 
 low the blooms should be properly cov- 
 ered with leaves. (Certain varieties, for 
 example, President Herbert Hoover, do 
 not meet this requirement, and are un- 
 suitable for show competition.) 
 
 Varieties that require a minimum of 
 care for control of insects and diseases 
 usually receive higher ratings than do 
 the more susceptible plants. 
 
 Many roses introduced in recent years 
 have had too few petals to make them 
 ideal for exhibition, but their color or 
 the form of their buds may make up 
 tor the deficiency. Most roses are judged 
 when only partly opened. Good buds 
 
 are therefore important even if the flow- 
 ers are less desirable when full-blown. 
 If the form of the flower is your prime 
 concern, from the standpoint of an ex- 
 hibition rose, you probably will not 
 plant such varieties as Fred Edmunds or 
 Grande Duchesse Charlotte, because 
 their form is sometimes faulty. 
 
 As for single roses, if anything hap- 
 pens to one of the five petals, the flower 
 is not suitable for exhibition. On a 
 many-petaled rose, however, a lost or 
 faulty petal will not be so serious a 
 handicap. 
 
 Exhibition color classifications are 
 often too restrictive to admit some bi- 
 colors and some of the multicolored 
 varieties. For example, Peace is not ex- 
 actly yellow, and does not fit well in a 
 yellow color class; Forty-Niner is not 
 limited to red. Color variations should 
 be considered when show classifications 
 are made up. 
 
 32 
 
SOME POPULAR ROSE VARIETIES 
 
 DESCRIBED BY TYPE, GROWTH HABIT, 
 
 COLOR, AND FRAGRANCE 
 
 
 Eclipse, a yellow hybrid tea. 
 
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REFERENCES 
 
 Allen, Raymond Clayton (ed.) 
 
 What Every Rose Grower Should Know. Harrisburg, Pa.: Hearthside Press, 1951. 
 
 Roses for Every Garden. New York: M. Barrows & Co., Inc., 1956. 
 
 Edwards, John Paul 
 
 How to Grow Roses. San Mateo, Calif.: Lane Publishing Company, i960. 
 
 Emsweller, Samuel Leonard, and W. D. McClellan 
 
 "Roses for the Home." U.S.D.A. Home and Garden Bui. 25 (rev.). Washington, D.C.: U. S. Govt. 
 Printing Office, 1956. 
 
 Lester, Frances E. 
 
 My Friend the Rose. Harrisburg, Pa.: J. Horace McFarland Company, 1942. 
 
 Park, Bertram 
 
 World of Roses. Garden City, New York: E. P. Dutton, 1962. 
 
 Rockwell, Frederich F., and Esther C. Grayson 
 
 Rockwell's Complete Boo\ of Roses. A practical guide to the uses, selection, planting, care, exhibi- 
 tion and propagation of roses of all types. Garden City, New York: E. P. Dutton, 1958. 
 
 Shepherd, Roy E., and Catherine E. Meitle (eds.) 
 
 Modern Roses V. A concise descriptive list of all roses in commerce or of historical or botanical 
 importance. (Compiled by J. Horace McFarland Company in cooperation with the American Rose 
 Society. Species list prepared by Gordon Rowley.) Harrisburg, Pa.: J. Horace McFarland Company, 
 1958. 
 
 Thomson, Richard 
 
 Roses for Pleasure, How to Select, Grow, Use and Enjoy Them. Princeton, N.J.: Van Nostrand, 
 1957- 
 
 Old Roses for Modern Gardens. Princeton, N.J.: Van Nostrand, 1959. 
 Wilson, Helen Van Pelt 
 
 Climbing Roses. New York: M. Barrows & Co., 1955. 
 
 In order that information in our publications may be more intelligible it is sometimes necessary to 
 use trade names of products or equipment rather than complicated descriptive or chemical identi- 
 fications. In so doing it is unavoidable in some cases that similar products which are on the market 
 under other trade names may not be cited. No endorsement of named products is intended nor 
 is criticism implied of similar products which are not mentioned. 
 
 44 
 
Co-operative Extension work in Agriculture and Home Economics, College of Agriculture, University of California, and United States Deportment of Agriculture 
 co-operating. Distributed in furtherance of the Ads of Congress of May 8, and June 30, 1914. George B. Alcorn, Director, California Agricultural Extension Service. 
 
 10m-l,'64(E838)L.L. 
 
THIS BOO" IS 
 
 AGRICULTURAL PUBLICATIONS 
 
 207 University Hall 
 terkeley 4, California 
 M T M * ATE 
 
 HOME 
 GARDEN 
 
 ™rci 
 
 FROM THE DIVISION OF AGRICULTURAL SCIENCES 
 
 i 
 
 MANUAL 5 / Camellia Culture for the 
 
 Home Gardener 25c 
 
 MANUAL 8 / Fuchsia Culture in the Home 
 
 Garden 25c 
 
 MANUAL 10 / Planning the 
 
 Garden $1.00 
 
 MANUAL 12 / Geraniums and 
 
 Pelargoniums in the 
 Home Garden ..25c 
 
 MANUAL 14 / Gladiolus — How to Grow Then 
 
 in the Home Garden 25*. s*« - 
 
 if 
 
 MANUAL 18 /Orchids for the California 
 
 Amateur 25c :/ 
 
 MANUAL 21 / Rhododendrons and Azaleas 
 
 Amateur 25c 
 
 MANUAL 30/ Irises for the Home 
 
 Gardener 25c 
 
 To obtain additional copies of this manual or a catalog listing other manuals and 
 free publications available, sec your University of California Farm Advisor (offices 
 located in most California counties), or send orders, payment and requests to the 
 above address. 
 
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