PAULINE FfeRE MOFFITT 
 
 UNIVFJlSn\ OrVvLIFORNIA 
 
 James Ik. flDoffitt 
 
 /L 
 
 No
 
 HINTS ON DRIVING.
 
 HINTS ON 
 
 DRIVING 
 
 liY 
 
 CAPTAIN C. MORLEY KNIGHT, R.A. 
 
 ILLUSTRATED BY 
 
 G. H. A. WHITE, ROYAL ARTILLERY 
 
 LONDON 
 
 GEORGE BELL & SONS, YORK ST., COVENT GARDEN 
 1902
 
 First Published, July, 1894. 
 Second Edition, revised. Dec., 1894. 
 Reprinted 1902.
 
 TO 
 
 MAJOR-GENERAL ALBERT WILLIAMS, R.A. 
 
 IN sincere admiration for his devotion to every 
 kind of sport, and as a mark of appreciation 
 of his encouragement and kindly advice in 
 all sporting matters connected with the Royal 
 Regiment of Artillery, this little Hand-book 
 on Driving is respectfully dedicated by one 
 who has had the honour and privilege of 
 serving under his command. 
 
 WOOLWICH, 
 1894. 
 
 2043839
 
 PREFACE TO THE SECOND 
 EDITION. 
 
 THE favourable reception given by the press 
 and the public to the first edition of " Hints 
 on Driving," which has run out in a little over 
 three months, gives me hopes that a reprint 
 of it will also be acceptable. 
 
 For this edition the sheets have been care- 
 fully revised throughout, and some additions 
 have been made, many of which have been 
 suggested to me during a short period of 
 service in India. Several new illustrations 
 have also been added. 
 
 General Albert Williams, who has kindly 
 interested himself in this work, has given me 
 permission to insert the following letter :
 
 x PREFACE TO THE SECOND EDITION. 
 
 "MY DEAR MORLEY KNIGHT, 
 
 " I have heard with pleasure that a second 
 edition of your book on Driving is about to 
 be published, and feel sure that it will be as 
 well appreciated as the first has been. The 
 book is full of valuable information most useful 
 to beginners, and many professed coachmen 
 might read it with advantage. The latter, 
 like doctors, differ on many points, but I feel 
 sure all good coachmen will be glad to know 
 that your endeavours to instruct in the art of 
 Driving have been so well received, and will 
 welcome the new edition, the success of which 
 I shall look forward to with confidence. 
 " Yours very truly, 
 
 "ALBERT H. WILLIAMS." 
 
 I have also to thank His Grace the Duke 
 of Beaufort, K.G., for his kindly advice, and 
 the numerous hints and corrections which I 
 have endeavoured to incorporate in this 
 
 volume. 
 
 C. M. K. 
 Nov., 1894.
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 INTRODUCTION i 
 
 CHAP. I. HARNESS 5 
 
 II. DRIVING SINGLE HARNESS ... 23 
 
 III. DRIVING DOUBLE HARNESS ... 45 
 
 IV. CURRICLE AND CAPE-CART .... 58 
 V. DRIVING FOUR HORSES POSITION 
 
 OF COACHMAN 75 
 
 VI. FOUR HORSES THE REINS ... 82 
 VII. FOUR-IN-HAND THE WHIP . . . 101 
 VIII. FOUR-IN-HAND. STARTING PULL- 
 ING UP TURNING 119 
 
 IX. FOUR-IN-HAND. VARIOUS USEFUL 
 HINTS WHAT SPARE ARTICLES TO 
 
 CARRY, ETC 131 
 
 X. TANDEM DRIVING 161 
 
 XI. TANDEM HARNESS 187 
 
 XII. BREAKING TO HARNESS 197
 
 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 CURRICLE Frontispiece 
 
 1. SINGLE HARNESS ON HORSE . . . to face I 
 
 2. SINGLE HARNESS POSITION OF THE HANDS . 24 
 
 3. SINGLE HARNESS RIGHT HAND IN WRONG 
 
 POSITION 27 
 
 4. SHORTENING REINS 31 
 
 5. SHORTENING REINS BY SLIDING LEFT HAND 
 
 UP TO RIGHT 33 
 
 6. DOG-CART 38 
 
 7. DOUBLE HARNESS ON HORSE 44 
 
 8. COUPLING REINS PROPERLY FITTED HORSES' 
 
 HEADS STRAIGHT 49 
 
 9. COUPLING REINS OF EQUAL LENGTH ... 51 
 
 10. OFF-SIDE COUPLING REIN FITTED FOR HORSE 
 
 WHICH POKES HIS NOSE, NEAR COUPLING 
 REIN FITTED FOR HORSE WHICH CARRIES 
 
 HEAD IN CHEST 53 
 
 11. POLE FITTED WITH SPRING FOR CURRICLE . 6l 
 
 12. CURRICLE BAR AND ROLLER BOLTS .... 63 
 
 13. CAPE-CART HARNESS 69 
 
 14. SPRINGING A HILL 74 
 
 15. PRACTISING DRIVING WITH THE WEIGHTS . 77 
 
 16. FOUR WEIGHTS AND PULLEYS FOR PRACTISING 
 
 DRIVING 78 
 
 17. FOUR IN HAND How TO HOLD REINS . . 83 
 
 18. STEADYING TEAM WITH RIGHT HAND ... 89
 
 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 
 FIG. PAGE 
 
 19. HOW LOOP SHOULD BE TAKEN UP .... QO 
 
 20. LOOPING NEAR-LEAD REIN UNDER THUMB . f)\ 
 
 21. LOOPING OFF-LEAD REIN UNDER THUMB . . 92 
 
 22. LOOPING OFF-LEAD REIN UNDER FlRST FlNGER 93 
 
 23. RIGHT HAND ox OFF-SIDE REINS TO PREVENT 
 
 WHEELERS CUTTING CORNER 95 
 
 24. OPPOSITION POINT TO THE RIGHT .... 97 
 
 25. OPPOSITION POINT TO THE LEFT 99 
 
 26. RESULT OF HOLDING WHIP IN WRONG POSI- 
 
 TION 103 
 
 27. PREPARING TO CATCH THONG 105 
 
 28. THONG CAUGHT UP BEFORE LOOP HAS BEEN 
 
 TAKEN OFF IO7 
 
 29. TAKING OFF LOOP 108 
 
 30. SECURING LASH BY TWISTING IT ROUND 
 
 HANDLE OF WHIP no 
 
 31. BRINGING BACK THONG OF WHIP AFTER 
 
 HITTING A LEADER 115 
 
 32. TAKING LEADERS' REINS OUT OF LEFT HAND 
 
 WITH RIGHT HAND 137 
 
 33. RIGHT HAND ASSISTING LEFT (ON THREE 
 
 REINS ONLY) 151 
 
 34. TANDEM WITHOUT BARS 160 
 
 35. TANDEM POSITION OF RIGHT HAND ON 
 
 REINS 165 
 
 36. TANDEM TURNING TO THE LEFT .... 169 
 
 37. TANDEM TURNING TO THE RIGHT .... 171 
 
 38. TANDEM WITH BARS 186 
 
 39. LONGEING WITH LONG REINS 196 
 
 40. A BREAK BY HOLLAND AND HOLLAND . . 209
 
 HINTS ON DRIVING. 
 
 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 IN the following pages an attempt has been 
 made to explain to beginners the rudimentary 
 principles and niceties of driving. 
 
 In most treatises on this subject the minute 
 details have been entirely omitted, the writer 
 taking for granted that the reader has pre- 
 viously acquired some practical knowledge of 
 harnessing and driving. 
 
 It is of course impossible to describe in a 
 short essay every method of handling the 
 ribbons, for well-known authorities even of 
 the present day differ on so many points, that 
 to discuss all would take too long. Never-
 
 HINTS ON DRIVING. 
 
 theless, as nothing has been considered too 
 trifling to be explained, it is hoped that 
 these hints may be especially useful to those 
 who may not have been able to obtain 
 any previous experience, and have not a 
 thoroughly competent tutor at hand to teach 
 them. 
 
 The difficulties which have to be overcome 
 are so numerous that they cannot all be 
 discussed in detail, for one of the greatest 
 charms of driving consists in the ever-varying 
 and complicated problems which are being 
 constantly placed before the driver to solve 
 problems which must be solved at once with- 
 out hesitation and in no sport or pastime 
 does the old saw, " He who hesitates is lost," 
 more frequently prove true than in that of 
 driving. Thus, though it happens that the 
 same result may be obtained in a variety of 
 ways by the practised hand, these notes being
 
 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 especially intended for the instruction of 
 beginners, the author has endeavoured to 
 solve, in the most simple and lucid manner, 
 those problems only which are most likely to 
 puzzle the novice. 
 
 After all, there is no way of learning to 
 drive so instructive as sitting on the box-seat 
 beside a first-class coachman, and carefully 
 watching the movements of his hands. The 
 novice is always tempted to confine his atten- 
 tion to the horses, and so omits to notice the 
 manipulation of the reins at the critical 
 moment. This omission on his part should 
 be carefully avoided, as the crisis is over in 
 so short a space of time that it is most im- 
 portant to keep the attention fixed almost 
 entirely on the driver's hands, and carefully 
 to commit to memory every detail of the 
 handling of the ribbons. In this work no 
 new theories on the art of driving have been
 
 HINTS ON DRIVING. 
 
 advanced, but many very old ones have been 
 specially emphasized by repetition a course 
 which has been considered justifiable on 
 account of their great importance.
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 HARNESS. 
 
 IT is often said by those who have little or no 
 experience, that four horses steady them- 
 selves, and require therefore little skill in 
 driving. This is a very great error, and a man 
 who is keen to learn should make it his first 
 aim to drive one horse well, and having 
 thoroughly mastered this accomplishment, he 
 should then proceed to handle a pair. In 
 driving the great aim is to get the horses 
 going well together, and all doing their fair 
 share of work without taking more out of the 
 driver than is absolutely necessary. In order 
 to arrive at this it is essential to have the
 
 HINTS ON DRIVING. 
 
 Fitting of 
 harness. 
 The collar. 
 
 Sore 
 shoulders. 
 
 horses properly bitted, rightly coupled, com- 
 fortably poled up, and the harness fitted 
 correctly. 
 
 To begin at the beginning, it is first of all 
 necessary to see that the harness fits the 
 horse. The collar is a very important point. 
 This should lie flat on the horse's shoulders, 
 so as to give sufficient room for the fingers to 
 pass between it and the horse's neck at the 
 sides, and the flat of the hand should be able 
 to pass freely between the lower part of the 
 collar and the horse's neck. Before putting 
 the collar on, it ought to be widened by 
 lateral pressure with the knee, so as not to 
 hurt the horse's eyes while passing over his 
 head. If the horse's shoulders should get 
 rubbed, the best remedy is to apply plenty of 
 sweet oil. This prevents the skin getting 
 hard and the hair coming off. Salt water 
 should never be used.
 
 HARNESS. 
 
 The hames should fit the groove in the Hames. 
 collar, which should be well recessed, correctly 
 all round and be buckled up tightly, other- 
 wise in double harness they are very liable to 
 be pulled out when going down hill, or when 
 pulling up suddenly. To prevent this, a small 
 strap may be buckled round the bottom of 
 the collar over the hame links. 
 
 With a pair, the hames straps should be names 
 buckled on so that the ends point inwards. 
 
 The traces should be of such a length that The traces, 
 the backhand will lie on about the middle 
 of the pad when the horse is in draught ; 
 the horse will then not be drawing the 
 cart by the backhand. Care should be 
 taken that the tugs are in front of the stops 
 on the shaft, or a bad accident may occur 
 owing to the cart running on to the horse's 
 quarters. 
 
 The width of the reins may vary from The reins.
 
 HINTS ON DRIVING. 
 
 Backhand. 
 
 Shafts and 
 balance of 
 cart. 
 
 seven-eighths of an inch to an inch and 
 a quarter, according to the length of the 
 driver's fingers, but about one inch will be 
 found the most suitable width for general 
 purposes. The reins should not be too thick, 
 or they will always be hard and stiff, while, 
 on the other hand, if they are very thin, 
 they will be uncomfortably soft in wet 
 weather. 
 
 In a two- wheeled cart the backband ought 
 to be long enough to allow the shafts to hang 
 level. There ought always to be a little 
 weight on the shafts, as nothing looks so 
 vulgar as shafts pointing up to the skies, 
 with all the weight on the belly-band. It 
 must be borne in mind that by letting down 
 the shafts the balance of the cart can be 
 very considerably altered. This alteration 
 is often useful when there are four people 
 in the cart, as few dog-carts balance well
 
 HARXESS. 
 
 with this number, the weight being nearly 
 al ways on the belly-band. Few owners 
 thoroughly appreciate what misery their 
 friends undergo when made to occupy a back 
 seat under these conditions, as they so rarely 
 try it themselves. 
 
 The belly-band should not hang down Belly-band, 
 quite loose, but, while allowing a little play of 
 the shafts, should be tight enough to prevent 
 them from tipping up to any extent. 
 
 The pad as well as the crupper should be Girth of pad. 
 buckled up pretty tight if there are any steep 
 hills to go down, and a breeching is not used ; 
 otherwise the pad will slip forward and gall 
 the horse's withers. Sore withers give a great 
 deal of trouble and are difficult to cure. 
 Another result of the pad slipping forward is 
 chafing of the horse's elbows. On some 
 horses the only way to prevent it is to fasten 
 the girth back to the shaft on each side by
 
 HINTS ON DRIVING. 
 
 The blinkers. 
 
 means of straps. This plan is frequently 
 used in hansoms in London. The pad itself 
 should be well stuffed off the back, particu- 
 larly with high-withered horses. 
 
 The blinkers should be so fitted that the 
 horse's eyes come almost in the middle of 
 them, while the headstall should be tight 
 enough to prevent the blinkers from bulging 
 out when pressure is put on the bit, and thus 
 enabling the horse to see behind him ; but 
 they should be fitted so as not to turn 
 inwards and almost touch the eyes. This is 
 a point which is very often little attended 
 to, but one which, makes a considerable 
 difference to the horse's comfort, and is 
 naturally reflected in his manner of going. 
 
 The throat-lash should not be fastened too 
 
 tight; if it is, it will half choke the horse. It 
 
 Throat-lash, should be loose enough to allow three ringers 
 
 to be passed between it and the horse's throat. 
 
 I Torse's 
 comfort 
 reflected in 
 manner of 
 going.
 
 HARNESS. 1 1 
 
 The nose-band should admit of the breadth Nose-band, 
 of two fingers between it and the horse's jaw. 
 
 Bitting is all a matter of common sense and 
 practice. The reins must be altered up or 
 down the bit until the adjustment most com- 
 fortable for the horse has been discovered. 
 But even then a great deal will depend on 
 what is generally known as " Hands." This Hands, 
 really unknown quantity, consisting as it does 
 of complete sympathy between the horse and 
 his driver, though born and not made, can be 
 improved to some extent by teaching and 
 practice. This gift has been defined as " not 
 using more force on the reins than the exi- 
 gencies of the occasion render absolutely 
 necessary." As a general rule the bit should Bitting, 
 lie flat in the horse's mouth about one inch 
 above the tusks. 
 
 The curb-chain must not be too tight, Curb-chain, 
 and there ought to be room for at least
 
 HINTS ON DRIVING. 
 
 two fingers to be placed between it and 
 the horse's jaw. If a horse is at all in- 
 clined to be a puller, an ignorant groom 
 will very often fix it as tight as he can, 
 with the probable result that the horse will 
 jib or pull all the harder. In the latter case 
 he will be likely to get a sore under the 
 jaw. The best remedy for this is to fix 
 a piece of leather on the chain, so that the 
 latter does not rub on the sore place. If 
 a horse bores to the near side, putting the 
 rein down lower on the off than on the near 
 side will very often make him go straight, and 
 vice versa. Some horses pull with very sharp 
 bits, and will not do so with a snaffle, while 
 others do just the contrary. A double-ring 
 snaffle covered with leather or made of india- 
 rubber is useful for very light-mouthed horses. 
 Use of a net. A net usually stops horses pulling for a 
 time, but it is doubtful whether it has a
 
 HARNESS. 
 
 permanent effect ; so that it is better to 
 leave it off occasionally. 
 
 If a horse is inclined to put his head down, 
 and bore, a bearing-rein will prevent him Bearing-rein, 
 from doing so ; but it must not be too tight. 
 There are many horses that would be un- 
 drivable without one, as it keeps their heads 
 in the proper position, and thus takes the 
 weight off the driver's hand. When driving 
 a young horse or a bad kicker it is always 
 advisable to have a loose one on, as it will 
 prevent him from becoming unmanageable by 
 putting his head between his legs. The 
 American pattern, which passes from the 
 bearing-rein hook on the pad over the top of 
 the horse's head, through a keeper on the 
 headpiece between his ears, down to the 
 bridoon is very useful for a hard puller. 
 
 The correct adjustment of a bearing-rein 
 requires a certain amount of practice, as when
 
 14 HJNTS ON DRIVING. 
 
 the horse is standing still it always appears 
 much tighter than it really is. 
 
 Bitting of a Sometimes a very hard puller, especially in 
 
 pulling horse. 
 
 a team, can be driven with a big Liverpool 
 
 bit hanging loose in his mouth and with 
 the reins fixed to a bridoon ; a bearing-rein 
 can also be fitted on this bridoon if re- 
 quired. 
 
 A martingale will prove effective in the 
 case of horses who pull owing to their habit 
 of star-gazing. 
 
 Sometimes a horse pulls by getting hold of 
 the cheek of the bit with his lip. This can be 
 met with the elbow-bit, which is an improve- 
 ment on the Liverpool bit, as, by having a bend 
 in it, the cheek is so far back that the horse can- 
 not reach it with his lips or tongue. The reason 
 that this bit is not more generally used is that 
 many people consider it unsightly. 
 
 Indiarubber-covered bits, especially those
 
 HARNESS. 15 
 
 with a double 'bar, also answer very well with 
 some pulling horses, the effect then being 
 to make the bit work on a different part 
 of the mouth from that to which they are 
 accustomed. 
 
 A double bar can easily be improvised by 
 sewing a piece of leather, like a lip-strap, 
 only larger, across the top of an ordinary bit, 
 just below the end of the headpiece. 
 
 An inveterate puller may in time get used 
 to any bit, in which case frequent change is 
 the only remedy. 
 
 In fact there is a key to almost every Every horse's 
 
 mouth has a 
 horse s mouth if it can only be found, and it k ey< 
 
 is well worth taking considerable trouble to 
 find it ; though frequently much patience and 
 many experiments will be required before 
 a successful result is obtained, and the man 
 who has to drive many horses must have a 
 large assortment of bits.
 
 1 6 
 
 HINTS ON DRIVING. 
 
 Martingale. 
 
 Cheek 
 leathers. 
 
 Corners of 
 mouth sore. 
 
 One-sided 
 mouth. 
 
 A martingale is excellent for a horse that 
 carries his head in the air, and also very 
 effective for one that rears. It should be 
 so adjusted as to keep the nose about in 
 line with the withers, and is generally fixed 
 to the nose-band, but may be attached to the 
 bit, and when so attached it is better to use a 
 half-moon snaffle, or one without a joint in it, 
 as this greatly reduces the chances of the 
 corners of the horse's mouth getting sore. 
 
 Circular pieces of leather, called cheek 
 leathers, are also very useful in this respect 
 with ordinary bits, as they keep the corners 
 of the horse's mouth from being pinched by 
 the cheeks, and also prevent to a certain 
 extent his getting hold of them with his 
 lips. 
 
 For a horse that has only one side to 
 his mouth, it often answers to have a few 
 tacks put on the inside of the piece of
 
 HARNESS. l? 
 
 leather, which effectually stops him from 
 leaning his head out to that side. 
 
 These pieces have a round hole in the 
 middle, which fits the bar of the bit, and 
 a slit from this hole to the outside, so that 
 they can be put on and taken off quite easily. 
 
 Kicking-straps can be used either in single Kicking-strap. 
 or double harness. In the former the strap 
 passes up from one of the shafts through 
 a loop in the crupper, and down to the 
 other shaft. In double harness two straps 
 are required. These are fixed to the pad, 
 from which they run parallel to the crupper 
 down to the splinter bar. They are connected 
 by a short strap across the loins. Kicking- 
 straps should be so adjusted that there should 
 be plenty of room for the movement of the 
 horse's quarters, as if he breaks into a canter 
 they are liable to catch his quarters and so 
 make him kick. A good rule is to allow 
 C
 
 HINTS ON DRIVING. 
 
 Fitting of 
 breeching. 
 
 Three kinds 
 of breeching. 
 
 Brown's 
 patent. 
 
 a hand's breadth between the horse's back 
 and this strap. 
 
 A breeching is a necessity in a hilly coun- 
 try, more especially with a two-wheeled cart, 
 when a brake is of no use. It should hang 
 about a foot below the upper part of the 
 dock, and have about four to six inches' 
 play when the horse is in the collar. 
 
 There are three kinds of breechings for a 
 dog-cart. 
 
 The first starts from the tug on one end 
 of the backhand, and goes right round the 
 horse's quarters to the tug on the other. 
 
 The second buckles to loops on each shaft, 
 these loops being placed half way between 
 the stops and the front of the cart. 
 
 The third consists of a broad strap, which 
 is stretched fairly taut across the shafts about 
 six or eight inches from the front of the 
 cart. This one is always ready and requires
 
 HARNESS. 19 
 
 no adjustment, looks neat, and answers ad- 
 mirably. It is known as Brown's patent. 
 
 The first method is better than the second, 
 because it does not require any extra loops on 
 the shafts, which tend to weaken them con- 
 siderably, and also it does not take any of the 
 paint off. 
 
 If a horse's quarters should get rubbed Breeching 
 
 rubbing the 
 
 by the breeching, the best plan to prevent any horse, 
 further damage is to have a large piece 
 of sheepskin sewn round the strap, with the 
 hair next the horse. 
 
 The crupper ought to be fitted so that crupper, 
 there is room for the breadth of the hand, or 
 about four inches, between it and the horse's 
 back, when the pad is in the right place. 
 Great care should be taken that all the 
 hairs of the tail are passed through the 
 crupper. 
 
 Breast 
 
 Breast harness can very often be sub- harness.
 
 HINTS ON DRIVING. 
 
 stituted for collars with great advantage, 
 especially when the horses' necks get wrung 
 by the latter. 
 
 This method of draught also obviates the 
 necessity of keeping a large number of collars 
 to fit all sorts of horses, while another advan- 
 tage is, that you are able to use breechings to 
 the best advantage in double harness. 
 
 The breast strap should be made of a 
 strong leather strap, about three inches wide, 
 and padded inside so that the hard edges do 
 not touch the skin. 
 
 For double harness a ring must be sewn 
 into the middle for the purpose of attaching 
 the pole chains. 
 
 The breast strap is held up by a light strap 
 passing over the horse's withers, and the 
 breeching, by a similar strap, passing over the 
 croup. A crupper can be used, but is not 
 necessary.
 
 HARNESS. 
 
 The breast straps should lie flat, and be 
 kept well above the point of the shoulders. 
 They must be carefully adjusted, the usual 
 fault being that they are placed too low. 
 Each end of the breast strap has a buckle, 
 into which both the trace and the end of the 
 breeching are fastened. Of course it is im- 
 possible to get as much work out of a horse 
 with breast harness as with collars. 
 
 The whip should be as light as possible, Whip, 
 and well balanced, the thong being about half 
 the length of the stick. The points should 
 always be of leather, as these are much the 
 best in wet weather. A whip should never 
 be allowed to stand in a corner or up against 
 a wall, as it will very quickly warp in that posi- 
 tion. It should always be kept hung up, either Always hang 
 
 whip up. 
 
 on a reel or by a string to a nail in the wall. 
 
 Before leaving the subject of harness, a 
 word on the general appearance and neatness
 
 HINTS ON DRIVING. 
 
 of turn-out will not be out of place. Straps 
 ought to be shortened to fit the horse, and be 
 no longer than absolutely necessary. 
 
 To prevent any ends flapping about, keepers 
 must be tight, and fitted so as to be within an 
 inch or two of the points of the straps. 
 Nothing catches the eye more quickly, or 
 looks more slovenly, than the ends of the 
 traces sticking out a foot beyond the keepers, 
 or a belly-band strap dangling loose under- 
 neath the horse. 
 
 When buying harness go to a really good 
 maker : cheap clumsy harness never pays.
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 DRIVING SINGLE HARNESS. 
 
 BEFORE starting, always have a good look The start, 
 round, and see that all the harness is put on 
 correctly ; then go to the off side of the horse 
 and take the reins in the right hand, the near 
 rein under the forefinger and the off rein 
 
 under the third finger. Get up into the Getting into 
 
 dog-cart. 
 
 cart and sit down immediately ; now trans- 
 fer the reins into the left hand, the near rein 
 over the forefinger, and the off rein under 
 the middle finger. Thus you have two fin- HOW to hold 
 gers between the reins (fig. 2). The reason 
 for this is that it gives much more scope 
 for play of the wrist on the horse's mouth
 
 HINTS ON DRIVING. 
 
 than if you only have one finger between 
 the reins. The thumb should point straight 
 to the right, and the forefinger be held well 
 
 FIG. 2. SINGLE HARNESS POSITION OF THE HANDS. 
 
 out, pointing to the right rear. This will 
 keep the near rein close up to the knuckle, 
 and the horse may easily be moved across 
 the road to either the left or right by
 
 SINGLE HARNESS. 25 
 
 turning the back of the hand up or down 
 respectively. 
 
 Sit well up ; nothing looks so bad as to see sit well up. 
 the driver leaning forward over the reins. 
 
 Finally, take the whip in the right hand at 
 the place where it balances most comfortably, 
 and you are ready to start. Then give the How to start. 
 horse the office to start by feeling his mouth 
 gently and speaking to him ; if he does not 
 respond touch him gently with the whip. 
 
 The moment he starts drop the hand 
 slightly ; jibbing is often caused by neglect 
 of the latter precaution. 
 
 Keep your elbows close to your sides, Elbows must 
 
 be close to 
 
 with the points almost touching the hips. 
 The wrists should be well bent, as by this 
 means you are enabled to keep a perfectly 
 steady bearing on the horse's mouth with- 
 out any jerking. This is a very important 
 point.
 
 26 HINTS ON DRIVING. 
 
 Fore arm The fore arm should be horizontal, and the 
 
 horizontal. 
 
 fingers from two to four inches from the 
 centre of the body, with the knuckles to the 
 front. 
 Lower fingers The thumb must not be pressed down on 
 
 to grip the 
 
 reins. the rein, except when a loop is taken up to 
 
 turn a corner to the right or left (see fig. 23), 
 when the right hand is available for shorten - 
 How to turn, ing the other rein to prevent the horse turning 
 too rapidly, or else to use the whip to bring 
 him round. 
 
 The fingers which should grip the reins, (so 
 tightly that they should never slip), are the 
 three lower ones. The forefinger should be 
 held as in fig. 2. 
 
 Never keep a large amount of slack of the 
 
 off rein in your right hand (fig. 3), as then 
 
 Whip not to you cannot use the whip ; and remember 
 
 be used when 
 
 hand on reins, never to hit the horse while the right hand is 
 holding a rein.
 
 SfXGLE HARNESS. 
 
 The reason for this is obvious, because if 
 you do try to hit him when you have the 
 off rein in the right hand, you must slack 
 
 FIG. 3. SINGLE HARNESS RIGHT HAND IN WRONG 
 POSITION. 
 
 that rein off, and the horse immediately 
 dashes away to the left. 
 
 It cannot be too strongly impressed on the Never move 
 
 reins in left 
 
 beginner, that whether the right hand is on hand, 
 the reins or not, they should always be of
 
 28 HINTS ON DRIVING. 
 
 the same length in the hand, and never be 
 allowed to slip. 
 
 The right hand should never on any 
 account take the off rein out of the left hand. 
 It is the first and most important law of 
 driving, that the reins, as held in the left hand, 
 should be of such a length as to keep the 
 horse straight, and should remain at that 
 length, whether the right hand is being used 
 on one or other of them or not. 
 
 No coachman who drives with a rein in 
 
 each hand can be said to know his business, 
 
 and yet it is one of the commonest things to 
 
 be seen in London. 
 
 Do not job Never use the whip on the horse unneces- 
 
 horse's mouth. 
 
 sanly, and never job him in the mouth except 
 to punish him for doing something wrong. 
 Nevertheless, for a horse which is inclined to 
 kick, jobbing is very useful when applied at 
 the right time, more especially if accompanied
 
 SINGLE HARNESS. 29 
 
 by a sharp hit with the whip over his 
 ears. 
 
 The whip should never be used on a shier, Never hit a 
 it will only frighten him, and confirm him in 
 the habit, which is caused by nervousness 
 and not by vice. Encourage him rather by Use the voice, 
 speaking to him, as there is nothing a horse 
 learns to understand quicker than his master's 
 voice. 
 
 Do not flap the reins on his back either 
 to start him or to make him increase his 
 pace. 
 
 Learn to drive at a steady and even pace. Pace should 
 From eight to nine miles an hour will usually 
 be found most suitable to average horses, but 
 do not on any account drive sometimes at six 
 miles and sometimes at ten. Nothing tires a 
 horse so much as constantly changing the pace. 
 
 It is usually better to start a little slower, start slow, 
 especially if you have a long way to go.
 
 30 HINTS ON DRIVING. 
 
 Once fairly started, keep your eyes well 
 fixed in front of you, and watch exactly what 
 other vehicles are doing, so that you may 
 never have to pull up suddenly. You should 
 be able to see from a distance whether you 
 can get through or not, and if you see that 
 you cannot, begin to slow down at once. 
 Jerky pace Never increase your pace, or check it, sud- 
 
 very bad. 
 
 denly. Nothing is more uncomfortable for 
 the passengers or more wearying to the 
 horse. 
 
 It is far better for the beginner to slow 
 down at once, if he is not sure of getting 
 through a tight place, than to go fast up to it, 
 and then have to pull up quite suddenly, if he 
 can pull up at all. This cannot always be 
 done at the last moment, and an accident is 
 Shortening the result. As a rule, when it is necessary to 
 pull up in a hurry, the reins cannot be short- 
 ened except by throwing up the hands, which,
 
 SINGLE HARNESS. 
 
 to say the least of it, looks very unbusinesslike. 
 The proper course to pursue is to catch hold 
 of the reins with the first finger and thumb of 
 the right hand just behind the left, and shorten 
 
 FIG. 4. SHORTENING REINS. 
 
 them as much as necessary by pulling them 
 through (fig. 4). 
 
 It is far better on such an occasion to have 
 the reins rather too short than too long, but if 
 only a small amount of shortening is required
 
 HINTS ON DRIVING. 
 
 the right hand can be placed on the reins in 
 front of the left and the left hand slid up to 
 the right (fig. 5). 
 Signal with When driving in a town, it is the rule to 
 
 whip to 
 
 carriage swing the whip stick round once or twice as an 
 
 indication to the drivers of vehicles behind 
 you that you are going to slow down or turn 
 a corner. 
 
 Turn corners Before coming to the turn the pace must 
 
 carefully. 
 
 always be checked, particularly in a town, 
 where the streets are generally slippery and 
 there is nearly always a curbstone. Many 
 an accident occurs daily through corners being 
 negotiated carelessly. This advice appears 
 almost superfluous, but the reader will find 
 that to drive, even fairly broken horses, col- 
 lectedly round sharp turns requires great care 
 and precaution. 
 Starting a In conclusion, it is worth pointing out, that 
 
 jibber. 
 
 a horse vhich is inclined to jib, may often be
 
 SIXGLE HARNESS. 
 
 33 
 
 started either by turning him to one side with 
 the rein, or if this fails, by getting some one 
 to push him over. The reason is that he is 
 
 FIG. 5. SHORTENING REINS BY SLIDING LEFT HAND 
 
 UP TO RI:;HT. 
 
 thus made to move before the pull comes on 
 his shoulders. 
 
 The fit of the gloves may seem a very Fit of gloves, 
 trivial matter to the uninitiated, but it is not 
 considered such by the expert coachman. 
 D
 
 34 HINTS ON DRIVING. 
 
 Any one attempting to drive with tight 
 "masher" gloves will find his hand cramped 
 in a very short time. All his power is taken 
 up in trying to keep his hand shut and wrest- 
 ling with his gloves, and not as it should be 
 in holding the reins tight. 
 
 It is difficult in fact to have them too 
 large. 
 
 They should be made of dogskin, and when 
 new, at least one inch longer than the fingers, 
 and rather larger, also very loose indeed across 
 the palm of the hand and wrist. They will 
 very soon shrink down and become the right 
 size, after the hand has got damp in them 
 once or twice. 
 
 It is a good plan to punch a few round 
 holes in the back of the gloves to keep the 
 hand cool. 
 
 The leather should be hard and tough, but 
 not too thick. Strapping inside is apt to make
 
 SINGLE HARNESS. 35 
 
 gloves clumsy and very awkward for driving, 
 especially with four reins. 
 ' Woollen gloves should always be carried, as Woollen 
 
 gloves, 
 they are the most comfortable in wet weather, 
 
 and the reins do not slip through them. 
 
 Never drive without a rug or apron of some Carriage rugs, 
 kind. A light cloth or cotton one may be 
 used in summer, but for the winter it is far 
 better to have a thick one of box cloth warmly 
 lined. When choosing an apron, remember 
 to get one with a V-shaped piece let in at the 
 top ; this adds greatly to one's comfort if 
 there are two people in the cart, as it allows 
 of the sides being tucked under, and thus 
 keeps out both cold and wet very much 
 better than one without the V let into it. 
 
 A dog-cart is the handiest of two-wheeled Hints on 
 
 building 
 
 carts for all-round purposes, and therefore the dog-cart, 
 one in most general use ; so that a few hints on 
 the selection or building of such a vehicle may
 
 HINTS ON DRIVING. 
 
 Height of 
 wheels. 
 
 Track of 
 
 wheels. 
 
 Bent shafts. 
 
 be of use to those who have not had much 
 practical experience in that line. At the 
 same time I would strongly recommend that 
 when buying a carriage of any kind profes- 
 sional advice should, if possible, be obtained, 
 since no one without experience can possibly 
 find out faulty workmanship or detect defects 
 in the material. 
 
 The following would be built for horses 
 about 15.2 in height: 
 
 The wheels should be fairly high, say about 
 five feet, as this enables the horse to pull the 
 cart over any small obstruction with greater 
 ease than with low wheels. 
 
 The track should be from five to five feet 
 three inches wide. This gives plenty of room 
 inside, and makes the cart less likely to upset. 
 
 Bent shafts are the most convenient for 
 driving horses of different heights, and should 
 be pivoted on the front part of the cart and
 
 SfXGLE HARNESS. 39 
 
 adjustable behind. A cart so constructed 
 will easily admit of horses From 14.2 to 16 
 hands being driven in the same vehicle. 
 
 The body should be as wide as possible, Body of cart 
 
 should be wide 
 
 because nothing is more uncomfortable than an( j i ow> 
 being cramped on a narrow seat. It also ought 
 to be low on the axle, thus rendering the cart 
 far more safe and also more comfortable. 
 
 A fixed body is better than one that moves 
 backwards and forwards on the shafts, because 
 it always remains the same distance from the 
 horse, and enables the cart to be built lighter. 
 
 The seat should be low enough to prevent Sent of cart, 
 the driver from feeling he is in want of a foot- 
 stool or that he is half standing, and should 
 slide in a groove out of which it cannot come 
 if the horse falls down. Many men have 
 been thrown out and had bad accidents simply 
 because of the seat coming away. It is more- . 
 
 over more comfortable if slightly below the
 
 40 HINTS ON DRIVING. 
 
 top of the sides of the cart. The back and 
 front seats should be so arranged that the 
 cart will balance equally well with one person 
 or four a result which can be arrived at by 
 having the seats to slide backwards and for- 
 wards when more than two people are in 
 Heath'spatent the cart. I consider Heath's patent the best 
 
 seat the best. 
 
 for this purpose ; it is very light and effec- 
 tive. 
 
 If the seat is a sliding one, the driver must 
 Adjustable have an adjustable foot-rest, and this can 
 
 foot -rest 
 
 necessary. easily be managed by having about half-a- 
 dozen pairs of holes in the floor of the cart for 
 the foot-rest to fit into. It should be a plain 
 board covered with indiarubber to prevent the 
 feet slipping, and tilted at an incline which 
 will keep the feet at right angles to the legs. 
 
 Bar foot-rest A bar foot-rest is most dangerous, as the feet 
 
 dangerous. 
 
 may be easily caught under it in getting out 
 Position of o f the cart. The lamps should be fixed 
 
 lamps.
 
 SINGLE HARNESS. 41 
 
 between the wheels and the sides of the cart, 
 care being taken that there is plenty of room 
 for them, so that should they get bent by any 
 accident they will not interfere with the 
 wheels. This position is much the best for 
 tandem driving ; in any other position they 
 are continually catching the lash of the whip, 
 and are consequently a perpetual source of 
 annoyance. 
 
 The best system of draught for a dog-cart Best trace 
 
 attachment. 
 
 is that in which the traces are attached to a 
 swingle-tree, from the centre of which two 
 chains pass down to loops fixed to the axle 
 close to the inside of the wheels. 
 
 The swingle-tree is held up by two straps Swingle-trse. 
 which pass through metal loops in the front 
 part of the cart. These straps should be 
 pretty strong ; were they to break, the bar 
 would fall on the horse's hocks and cause 
 an accident.
 
 42 HINTS ON DRIVING. 
 
 Chains on Be careful that the chains are not too long, 
 
 not to be too an d that the pull is really on them, and not as 
 
 is frequently the case entirely on the straps. 
 
 In the latter case of course the swingle-tree 
 
 ceases to be of any use. 
 
 Advantages of The swingle-tree attachment enables the 
 attachment horse to pull directly from the axle-tree by- 
 means of the chains, and in this way the best 
 line of draught is obtained ; moreover a certain 
 amount of play is given to the horses' shoul- 
 ders and the chance of their galling is less 
 than with the ordinary method.
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 DRIVING DOUBLE HARNESS. 
 
 To drive a pair well, that is, to be able to 
 put-to and drive any two horses, is not such 
 an easy thing as at first sight it may appear 
 to the uninitiated. To drive a pair of good 
 goers thoroughly accustomed to their work, 
 and harnessed up in the right manner, is such 
 a very simple matter that the merest tyro 
 ought to be able to compete with it, with fair 
 success. But when he has two entirely dif- 
 ferent and unknown animals to take in hand, 
 it is quite another question. 
 
 Double harness is fitted exactly the same Belly-bands, 
 way as single, except that the belly-bands
 
 46 HINTS ON DRIVING. 
 
 should be slightly looser, so as to admit 
 two or three fingers between them and the 
 girths. 
 
 We will suppose that the harness has been 
 put on the horses and correctly fitted to them, 
 and that they are standing in the stable ready 
 to be put-to ; then the correct way of bringing 
 them out would be as follows : 
 How to lead -phe traces having been placed across his 
 
 horse out of 
 
 stable. back, the horse should be led out by the nose- 
 
 band, not by the rein or the bar of the bit, 
 otherwise the groom is very apt to job him in 
 the mouth without intending to do so, a 
 performance to which he may object and run 
 violently back, or rear up and fall over. Great 
 care should be exercised when leading out of 
 the stable. It not infrequently happens 
 that horses hit their hips against the walls, 
 which is liable to chip them, and cause 
 lameness, besides teaching them the ex-
 
 DOUBLE HARNESS. 47 
 
 tremely bad habit of rushing out of the stable- 
 door. 
 
 Bring the horse carefully up alongside of Hooking in 
 
 alongside of 
 
 the pole, so that he does not hit either the pole, 
 pole or the bar, and at once insert the hook oi 
 the pole chain into the ring of the kidney link 
 of the hames, to prevent his running back on 
 to the splinter bar. 
 
 Now place the outside trace on the roller 
 bolt, and afterwards fix the inside one. The 
 quicker the latter is done with uncertain 
 horses or kickers the better, as this operation 
 renders it necessary to reach right over 
 behind their quarters. If only one horse 
 is likely to kick, he should be put in first, 
 to avoid this danger. When taking out the 
 exact reverse should always be adhered to. 
 
 Never pole up the horses too tightly, as it Polling up. 
 is very uncomfortable for them, more espe- 
 cially with a team, when the pole is a heavy
 
 48 HI.VTS ON DRIVING. 
 
 one, because if the pole chains are tight the 
 weight of the pole will be always resting on 
 their necks. See that the end of the hook on 
 the chain is pointing downwards, as otherwise 
 a horse with a bar across the bottom of his 
 bit may get caught in it. 
 
 Pole pieces. For ordinary pair work leather pole pieces 
 
 are commonly used instead of chains. They 
 do not require so much cleaning, and are 
 much less trouble. They must be made of 
 strong leather and kept soft with dubbing or 
 salad oil, otherwise they may become rotten 
 and dangerous. 
 
 Adjustment of The correct adjustment of the two short in- 
 coupling reins. 
 
 side reins, called coupling reins, requires great 
 
 care. They should be so fitted that an even 
 pressure is brought on both sides of the horses' 
 mouths, and in such a way also that both 
 horses shall go straight and pull evenly on 
 the traces (fig. 8).
 
 DOUBLE HARNESS. 
 
 With a view to this the outer reins have a 
 number of holes punched in them, up and 
 
 FIG. 8. COUPLING REINS PROPERLY FITTED HORSES* 
 HEADS STRAIGHT. 
 
 down which the buckles of the coupling reins 
 can be shifted, thus enabling them to be
 
 50 JIIXTS ON DRIVING. 
 
 shortened or lengthened to suit each par- 
 ticular horse's mouth. 
 To prevent a For instance, if the near horse carries his 
 
 horse carrying 
 
 his head to nea ^ to the near side, the coupling rein on the 
 off side should be taken up, when his head 
 will be straightened. At the same time it 
 must be borne in mind that if a coupling rein 
 is let out the effect is also produced of short- 
 ening up the outer rein on the same side, 
 and thus bringing the horse on that side 
 further back than the other. 
 
 To make Supposing we have two horses apparently 
 
 hurses which 
 
 carry their we ^ matched, but that the near horse carries 
 
 heads in diffe- . . . , , , c , , 
 
 rent wa -s ull head rather out to the front and has a 
 light mouth, while the off horse has a hard 
 mouth and carries his head close in to his chest. 
 Now to get this pair to pull equally on the 
 traces we must obviously have the near 
 horse's reins considerably longer than those 
 of the off horse. If they have been put to
 
 DOUBLE HARNESS. 
 
 with the coupling reins of equal length, both 
 buckled in the centre holes, there will then be 
 three or four holes on each side of the buckles, 
 
 FIG. 9. COUPLING REINS OF EQUAL LENGTH. 
 
 and the reins can either be let out or taken 
 II P (fig- 9)- 
 
 In this case we should begin by letting out
 
 52 HINTS ON DRIVING. 
 
 the off side coupling rein two holes, and 
 taking up the near side rein the same number 
 (fig. 10). 
 
 Then as the near horse has a light mouth, 
 he should be put on the cheek, and the hard 
 mouthed pulling off horse on the middle bar. 
 This fitting will probably suit the horses, 
 and the pull on all four traces will be even. 
 
 The reins will now be adjusted like those in 
 
 fig. 10, which shows how the near horse is able 
 
 to hold his head well in front of the other, 
 
 while the collars are brought level. 
 
 Coupling reins The most general fault is coupling up both 
 
 must not be 
 
 too tight. reins too tightly, which makes the horses 
 carry their heads in .towards the pole, instead 
 of going quite straight, as they should do. 
 To prevent horses acquiring this habit, it is a 
 good plan occasionally to change their posi- 
 tions, instead of always driving them on the 
 same side of the pole.
 
 DOUBLE HARNESS. 
 
 This fault is very often to be seen in the 
 leaders of a team, keeping them close to- 
 
 \ 
 
 FIG. 10. OFF-SIDE COUPLING REIN FITTED FOR HORSE 
 WHICH POKES HIS NOSE, NEAR COUPLING REIN FITTED 
 FOR HORSE WHICH CARRIES HEAD IN CHEST. 
 
 gether, and causing them to rub up against 
 each other to such an extent that they some- 
 times chafe.
 
 54 HINTS ON DRIVING. 
 
 It is a convenience, particularly when break - 
 Toalter length J n g young horses, to have more than one hole 
 
 of rein without 
 
 interfering in the billets for buckling the reins on the 
 
 with coupling 
 
 re i,i. bits, so that a horse can be pulled back or let 
 
 out a hole on either side without altering the 
 coupling rein. 
 
 To prevent Horses in a pair sometimes get into the 
 
 horses leaning 
 
 against the trick of leaning in against the pole, par- 
 
 pole* 
 
 ticularly when going down hill. 
 
 It is a difficult habit to cure them of, and 
 perhaps the best preventive is a good cut 
 with the whip when they first attempt it, 
 though a little furze or a bit of hedgehog skin 
 on the pole is sometimes effective. 
 Reins must not The reins must never be allowed to slip 
 
 be allowed to 
 
 slip. through the fingers of the left hand, nor under 
 
 Right rein any circumstances should the off rein be taken 
 
 never be taken 
 
 out of left out i the le " hand m order to turn to the 
 right or pull across the road. 
 
 The right hand should pull the rein towards
 
 DOUBLE HARNESS. 55 
 
 the centre of the body, and not out to the 
 side to which you wish to go. 
 
 Sometimes a horse gets galled by the collar, To prevent 
 from being continually pulled up, or from the witho!" 
 holding back down steep hills ; this can be 
 remedied by having a tinned iron plate fitted 
 on under the top of the collar, without taking 
 the horse out of work. 
 
 It will be found that traces usually stretch Length cf 
 
 traces. 
 
 and become of unequal length ; when this 
 occurs, the shorter trace should be put on the 
 inside, and should be marked, so that it shall 
 not be put on the outside by mistake. With 
 some horses it will be found necessary to 
 have the inside trace half a hole or even 
 one hole shorter than the outer one, so as to 
 obtain an equal pressure on both sides of the 
 collar. 
 
 If bearing straps for the traces are used Bearing 
 
 straps. 
 
 they should be just long enough to keep them
 
 56 HINTS ON DRIVING. 
 
 in a straight line; if longer, they will jump up 
 when the horse goes into his collar. 
 
 Further instructions for his guidance in 
 driving a pair the reader will find in the 
 chapter on driving four horses. 
 
 Breaks are so commonly used in India, that 
 a few hints may prove useful. 
 
 As a rule those in use are so low that the 
 horses' quarters are in front of the footboard 
 instead of being under it, and the driver is 
 consequently too far from his work. In 
 modern breaks the driving seat and boot are 
 built almost exactly like those of a coach, 
 where the footboard is well over the horses' 
 quarters. That portion of the footboard 
 which comes over the roller bolts should be 
 about five feet from the ground, which gives 
 room for the horses underneath. 
 
 The inside seats should be at least six feet 
 long, so as to take four people comfortably
 
 DOUBLE HARNESS. 57 
 
 on each side ; a second seat behind the 
 driving seat as on a coach can be added, and 
 if necessary can be made removable. This 
 gives three extra seats looking to the front, 
 the occupants of which will not suffer so much 
 from the dust as if they were inside. 
 
 The body can be hung on four elliptical 
 springs, with a cross spring on the hind axle, 
 or on two elliptical springs in front with two 
 side springs and a cross spring behind. The 
 latter method is to be preferred. 
 
 The approximate dimensions are as follows Break 
 
 measure- 
 
 (see fig. 40) : height of body from ground, ments . 
 
 3 ft. 6 in.; driving seat without cushions, 
 7 ft. ; front wheels, 3 ft. 2 in. ; hind wheels, 
 
 4 ft. 6 in. ; length of pole, 10 ft. 6 in. ; weight 
 about 1 2 cwt. ; track, 5 ft.
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 CURRICLE AND CAPE-CART. 
 
 WHEN it is desired to drive a pair, but owing 
 to the expense, lack of carriage accommoda- 
 tion, or other reasons, the purchase of an extra 
 carriage is inconvenient, an ordinary dog-cart 
 can be fitted with a pole and adapted for a 
 pair of ponies or horses at a very small cost 
 In such a case however the pole of the dog- 
 cart, having nothing to support it with the 
 ordinary double harness, would fall to the 
 ground, and it would therefore be necessary to 
 adopt one of the two following methods of 
 draught : 
 
 Curricle. i. That known as Curricle, in which a bar 
 
 passing from one horse to the other over the
 
 CURRICLE AND CAPE-CART. 59 
 
 pads supports the pole by means of a strap cr 
 brace. 
 
 2. The system employed in what is gene- 
 rally known as the Cape-cart, in which the Cape-cart, 
 supporting bar passes through a ring near the 
 end of the pole, and is held up by straps 
 passing over the horses' necks. 
 
 The first of these systems is the smarter in 
 appearance, while the other is more suitable 
 for rough work. I will begin by discussing 
 the Curricle. 
 
 An ordinary dog-cart which has removable Cost of 
 
 curricle. 
 
 shafts can be fitted with the requisite gear, 
 including the curricle bar and the pole chains, 
 for about 10. The necessary alterations 
 were made to my own dog-cart by Messrs. 
 Heath of Aldershot, who had originally built 
 it, but with no idea at the time it was made of 
 having a pole eventually fitted to it. I found 
 that it worked admirably from the first, and
 
 60 HINTS ON DRIVING. 
 
 no subsequent alterations or repairs were 
 necessary, there being in fact nothing at all 
 likely to get out of order. 
 How to fit To adapt the cart for pole draught, a large 
 
 dog-cart with a 
 
 pole. square iron loop must be fixed under the 
 
 front of the cart, and a smaller one under the 
 centre. The latter loop must be very strong 
 and firmly fixed, as it has to take the ex- 
 treme end of the pole, which at times puts on 
 it a very great amount of strain. 
 
 An extra board will therefore probably 
 have to be fitted right across the bottom of 
 the cart, the ordinary boarding of which the 
 bottom of a dog-cart is usually made being 
 too thin and flimsy to resist the strain which 
 the pole loop will put on it. Should this 
 loop tear out, or the board to which it is 
 fixed give way, a very serious accident may 
 occur. 
 
 The pole must of course fit both loops
 
 CURRICLE AND CAPE-CART. 61 
 
 accurately, and it must be secured in them by 
 a bolt passing through it and preventing it 
 from being drawn out 
 
 Underneath the pole at the point where the 
 supporting strap will come there should be a 
 strong spring (fig. 1 1), which will do away with 
 much of the jar on the pole itself, and also on 
 
 FIG. II. POLE FITTED WITH SPRING FOR CURRICLE. 
 
 the backs of the horses ; and if it is likely that 
 a team of four will be driven, the pole should 
 be made with a hook at the end to take the 
 swingle bars. 
 
 For the attachment of the traces two bars Bars for at- 
 taching traces, 
 must be provided for, and as the front of the 
 
 cart will be too narrow for these to be fixed to 
 it direct, iron stays projecting about six inches 
 to either side can be screwed on underneath
 
 62 HINTS ON DRIVING. 
 
 each end of the front of the cart. The bars 
 can then be fixed to these stays by bolts 
 passing through their centres. The bars 
 will then revolve on their centres and give 
 the horses' shoulders plenty of play, en- 
 abling them to do their work with much 
 comfort. 
 
 To the dog-cart itself no other alterations 
 
 are necessary. The addition of the pole does 
 
 not affect the balance to any appreciable 
 
 extent. 
 
 Difference be- With regard to the harness, the chief differ- 
 
 tween curricle 
 
 and ordinary ence between curricle and ordinary double 
 
 double bar- , ... , 
 
 ness> harness is in the pads. 
 
 These must be strong and heavy, and fitted 
 with special roller bolts, on which the steel 
 curricle bar rests (fig. 12). They require to be 
 heavy and strong, because at times the pole 
 will put a considerable weight on them, more 
 particularly when going down hill.
 
 CURRICLE AND CAPE-CART. 63 
 
 On each side they have a leather loop like 
 those on a tandem pad, and through these 
 the traces are passed. In the bolts on the 
 top of the pads is pivotted a small steel roller. 
 
 \ 
 
 FIG. 12. CURRICLE BAR AND ROLLER BOLTS. 
 
 The curricle bar rests on the rollers, and by 
 their action is enabled to work freely from 
 side to side, or from one horse towards the 
 other, without any friction or noise. The 
 rollers can be raised or lowered about a 
 couple of inches, so that should the horses
 
 64 HINTS ON DRIVING. 
 
 be of unequal height the bar can be levelled 
 by raising or dropping one end of it. 
 
 Curricle bar. The bar should be made of steel, and must 
 be long enough to give at least six inches 
 play to the outside of each pad when the 
 horses are standing square in their places. 
 It has a small screw at each end, on which 
 are screwed flat circular nuts to prevent the 
 bar dropping out of the bolts and off the 
 rollers. These are put on immediately the 
 bar has been passed through the bolts, and 
 are themselves secured and prevented from 
 coming unscrewed by V-shaped steel ties, 
 which pass through slits at the extreme ends 
 of the bar. In the centre of the bar is a long- 
 shaped loop or slit, through which the brace 
 or supporting strap is passed (fig. 12). 
 
 Supporting This brace should be a strong leather strap 
 
 strap or brace. 
 
 about three inches wide. It passes under 
 the spring below the pole, through the slit in
 
 CURRICLE AND CAPE-CART. 65 
 
 the bar, and is fastened by a large double 
 buckle. 
 
 The traces are the same as for single- 
 harness. 
 
 To prevent the pole from tipping up when How to pre- 
 vent pole 
 the weight is on the back of the cart, a tipping up. 
 
 light strap, with a double buckle at each end 
 of it, can be fastened to the end of the girth- 
 strap of one of the pads under the horse, 
 passed over the pole, and again buckled at 
 the other end to the other horse's girth-strap. 
 This is an effectual remedy for the tilting up 
 of the pole, even when a heavy man mounts 
 suddenly on to the back seat. In all other 
 respects the harness is the same as ordinary 
 double harness. 
 
 If the cart is fitted with a swingle bar 
 
 for single harness, the steel chains which 
 
 connect the bar to the axle can perfectly 
 
 well be used as pole chains, in which case 
 
 F
 
 66 IffXTS ON DRIVING. 
 
 it would be unnecessary to purchase new 
 ones. 
 
 Ponies of fourteen hands or upwards, which 
 would look too small for a full-sized dog-cart 
 in single harness, and would be unable owing 
 to its weight to draw it, look extremely well 
 and make little of the weight when driven as 
 a pair, and can thus be utilized in curricle 
 when perhaps their services in harness would 
 otherwise be lost. 
 
 A team of horses, or better still of ponies, 
 can also be driven in the poled dog-cart, pro- 
 vided that the pole has the hook referred to 
 before at the end of it. 
 
 Four horses look altogether too big, and 
 the team is too long for the short cart behind 
 it ; but a team of ponies, although they also 
 look rather too long, are very much better; 
 and the slight disadvantage of appearance 
 is well counterbalanced by the pleasure of
 
 CURRICLE AND CAPE-CART. 67 
 
 driving them, and by the ease with which 
 long distances can be covered without dis- 
 tress. 
 
 Given a good, comfortable, roomy dog-cart 
 and four fairly-trained ponies which are really 
 fit, and no more enjoyable way of travelling 
 about a country can be found for two, three, 
 or even four people, The weight to be drawn 
 is so small compared to the horse-power em- 
 ployed, that all hills can be surmounted at a 
 rapid pace, and long distances can be covered 
 in a single day, without placing any undue 
 strain on the cattle. 
 
 The bars, though considerably lighter, are 
 exactly like the bars of a coach, while the 
 leaders' harness, it is hardly necessary to 
 remark, is precisely the same. 
 
 In the Cape-cart, about eighteen inches Cape-cart, 
 from the end of the pole, comes a supporting 
 bar or yoke, sometimes called a bugle, the use
 
 68 HI.\ 7 TS ON DRIVING. 
 
 of which is to prevent the pole from falling to 
 the ground. This bar, usually made of lance 
 wood, about an inch in diameter, and five feet 
 long, can be attached to the pole in several 
 ways, but it is best so to arrange it that it can 
 slide up and down the pole as well as from 
 side to side. Perhaps the best and simplest 
 attachment is obtained by passing a short 
 strap with brass rings at each end of it round 
 the pole, and then putting the yoke through 
 the rings. The middle of the yoke ought to 
 be covered with leather, to prevent it being 
 chafed by the pole. 
 
 Though collars can be used, breast-harness 
 is nearly always employed, and is much to be 
 preferred on account of the breeching being 
 much more effective than with collars ; with- 
 out a breeching the horses are apt to come 
 back on to the splinter bar. 
 
 Neither cruppers nor pads are essential.
 
 CURRICLE AND CAPE-CART. 71 
 
 The breast harness is held up by straps which 
 pass through the same pads as the yoke 
 straps. 
 
 These latter are fixed near the middle of 
 the yoke, and pass through pads on the 
 horses' withers to short buckling pieces 
 attached near the outer ends of the bar. 
 
 Messrs. Atkinson and Philipson of New- Makers of 
 
 Cape harness. 
 
 castle-on-Tyne make a speciality of this kind 
 of harness. 
 
 A dog-cart can be adapted for the Cape- 
 cart draught in exactly the same manner as 
 previously described for curricle ; the pole, 
 however, should be rather longer. 
 
 Advocates of the Cape-cart claim the fol- 
 lowing advantages for it over the Curricle : 
 that specially constructed heavy pads are not 
 required, and that should one horse fall, there 
 is very slight chance of his bringing down the 
 other with him.
 
 72 HINTS ON DRIVING. 
 
 These two styles of draught are much used 
 abroad, tfwe latter in India, where it is known as 
 '' Tonga," the former in South Africa, whence 
 it derives its name. As far as utility goes 
 there appears to be little between them.
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 DRIVING FOUR HORSES POSITION OF 
 COACHMAN. 
 
 IN order to learn to drive four horses as they 
 should be driven, it is necessary to begin by 
 studying the rules and general principles of 
 this most fascinating amusement. To the 
 lovers of this pastime nothing is more en- 
 joyable than sitting behind a perfect and well- 
 appointed team skilfully driven. It is most Constant 
 
 practice 
 essential for one who would become a necessary. 
 
 thoroughly efficient whip to have several 
 years of constant practice, and even when 
 this has been obtained, it will be found that 
 there is still always something to learn. 
 
 For driving, like so many other accora-
 
 76 HINTS ON DRIVING. 
 
 plishments, requires to be kept up, or else 
 the hand and eye will very soon be found to 
 have lost their cunning, and not only does 
 one become slow and clumsy with the whip 
 and reins, but the arms and fingers soon tire. 
 Practice with In order to keep the hand in, when not 
 
 weights. 
 
 driving regularly, an arrangement of weights 
 and pulleys is a very convenient toy. It 
 requires a weight of about twenty pounds (a 
 cylinder of lead is very handy), to which is 
 attached a strong cord. This passes over 
 pulley P (fig. 15), fixed for convenience to 
 tlie mantelpiece or other projection from the 
 wall, down to pulley P\ on the floor, and 
 then ends in a loop, into which four straps 
 can be fastened like reins. Then sitting in a 
 comfortable chair, the hands holding the 
 straps like reins, the weight can be kept 
 working up and down (four or five inches will 
 be found quite sufficient) for ten minutes or
 
 DRIVING FOUR HORSES. 
 
 77 
 
 so. Another method, which is rather more 
 complicated, but more useful for the beginner, 
 is shown in fig. 16. This, while strengthen- 
 
 FIG. 15. PRACTISING DRIVING WITH THE WEIGHTS. 
 
 ing his arms and fingers, enables him to 
 acquire the art of looping and shortening the 
 reins, and in fact to practise all the tricks of
 
 HINTS ON DRIVING. 
 
 Arrangement the trade. For this practice eight pulleys 
 
 of pulleys and 
 
 weights. are required ; four are fixed on the wall, about 
 
 three or four feet from the ground and from 
 three to six inches apart ; the other four are 
 
 FIG. 1 6. FOUR WEIGHTS AND PULLEYS FOR PRACTISING 
 DRIVING. 
 
 placed directly under these, and fixed to the 
 floor close up against the wall. A strong 
 cord is passed under each lower pulley first, 
 then over the pulley directly above, the ends
 
 DRIVING FOUR HORSES. 79 
 
 being fastened to weights of four or five 
 pounds. To the other ends of the cords are 
 attached leather straps similar to ordinary 
 reins. Thus you have four reins, the two 
 inner ones representing the wheelers, the two 
 outer ones the leaders. 
 
 It has been found by trial that the Weight on 
 
 hands when 
 
 approximate weight on the hands when driving four 
 driving a light team is about five pounds, but 
 the average weight may be taken as about 
 ten or twelve pounds, which will be much 
 increased with a team of pullers ; while going 
 down a steep hill the pressure will not in- 
 frequently exceed thirty-five pounds. These 
 pressures, which I ascertained after many 
 experiments, will show the novice how all- 
 important it is that he should be really fit, 
 and the muscles of his arms and fingers well 
 developed, before he can hope to be really 
 master of a team of horses.
 
 HINTS ON DRIVING. 
 
 Muscle of 
 thumb 
 necessary for 
 
 It is always advisable, while practising with 
 weights, to hold a whip, or stick to repre- 
 sent a whip, in the right hand, as by so 
 doing you will very soon get into the way of 
 using this hand correctly on the reins (fig. 15). 
 
 It is very important for the young driver 
 
 to develop the muscle of the thumb ; other- 
 holding whip. wise it win be found extreme]y tiring to hold 
 
 the whip properly for any considerable time, 
 more especially against a high wind. 
 
 Messrs. Whippy and Steggall have shown 
 
 me a very neat arrangement of weights and 
 
 pulleys which can be easily fitted up in any 
 
 room, and is well worth inspection. 
 
 Position of When driving, the body should be kept 
 
 body on 
 
 driving seat, upright and square to the front, but all stiff- 
 ness should be avoided. The driving seat 
 should be low, and about three or four inches 
 higher at the back than in front, so that the 
 driver can sit down in a really comfortable 
 
 Position of 
 legs. 
 
 position. The ankles and knees should be just
 
 DRIVING FOUR HORSES. 81 
 
 touching each other, and the arms close to the 
 
 sides, the point of the elbows touching the 
 
 hip bone. The forearm should be about Position of 
 
 horizontal, and the left hand from three to four 
 
 inches from the centre of the body, the back 
 
 of the hand being turned towards the front 
 
 and nearly vertical, but inclined a little towards 
 
 the horses. The wrist must be bent slightly Position of 
 
 left wrist. 
 
 towards the body, and on no account allowed 
 to bend the other way. This is far the best 
 position for feeling the horses' mouths, as the 
 wrist then acts like a spring, and a perfectly 
 even pressure can be maintained. Sit well Leaning 
 
 forward bad. 
 
 back, and do not lean forward over the reins 
 in the attitude of a dairymaid on a milking- 
 
 stool. The driver should on no account be Driver should 
 
 sit well down, 
 half standing, or merely leaning against the 
 
 seat, with unbent knees, as, in the event of a 
 wheeler falling or shying up a bank, he will 
 inevitably be jerked off the coach. 
 G
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 FOUR HORSES THE REINS. 
 
 How to hold THE best way of holding the reins is to have 
 the near lead over the left forefinger, the off 
 lead between the forefinger and the middle 
 finger, the near wheel between the same and 
 under the off lead, and the off wheel between 
 
 Thumb and the middle and the third finger (fig. 17). The 
 
 forefinger 
 
 must not hold reins must be gripped firmly by the three lower 
 fingers of the left hand, so that they cannot 
 possibly slip, the thumb and forefinger never 
 being used to hold the reins except when 
 looping. The thumb should invariably point 
 to the right, and the forefinger be held well 
 out. The near lead-rein should pass over or 
 close to the knuckle of the forefinger, and not
 
 FOUR HORSES. 
 
 over the first or second joint. The beginner 
 will find that after a time the muscle at the 
 
 FIG. i;. FOUR IN HAND HOW TO HOLD REINS. 
 
 base of the left thumb will develop wonder- 
 fully, and that the reins will be held between
 
 84 HINTS ON DRIVING. 
 
 this muscle and the lower fingers very firmly 
 without any apparent effort. 
 Adjusting There are various ways of adjusting the 
 
 length of reins 
 
 in hand. reins, either by pulling them out or pushing 
 
 them back from the front, or by pulling them 
 from behind, or by taking out the lead reins. 
 
 Shortening One general principle as to shortening the 
 
 reins is to do it by putting the right hand in 
 front of the left, and pushing those required to 
 be shortened through the left hand. In doing 
 this the thumb should never be used, as it is 
 fully occupied in holding the whip. But the 
 beginner will very often find it easier to short- 
 en the reins from behind by pulling them 
 through the left hand. In this case the thumb 
 and forefinger must be used. I consider the 
 following the easiest and most effective ways 
 of adjusting the reins, viz. : 
 
 To shorten all All four reins can be shortened, if much is 
 
 four reins. 
 
 required, by pulling them through from be-
 
 FOUR HORSES. 85 
 
 hind, but it is generally quicker and neater to 
 hold the reins with right hand two or three 
 inches in front of left (the little and the third 
 fingers over the off-side reins and middle 
 finger between the near-side reins), and then 
 slide the left hand up to the right. By this 
 means a perfectly steady pressure is kept 
 on the horses' mouths. This movement is 
 generally required when going down hill. 
 
 Both wheel reins. It is better to shorten TO shorten 
 
 both wheel 
 
 these by pulling them through from behind. reins- 
 This is necessary when going down steep 
 hills, especially when the wheelers are loosely 
 poled up, so as to prevent the bars hitting 
 the leaders' hocks. 
 
 Both lead reins. In order to shorten these To shorten 
 
 both lead 
 take out both the leaders with the right hand re ins. 
 
 (the third and little fingers over off, and first 
 or middle finger over near-side rein); you can 
 then pass them back to your left hand the
 
 HINTS ON DRIVING. 
 
 required length by letting them slide through 
 the right hand the necessary amount. To 
 lengthen them, simply pull them through from 
 the front. 
 Shortening The near lead. Either push through from 
 
 near-lead 
 
 rei^ the front, with the full of the right hand over 
 
 the rein, or take it right out of the left hand 
 the same way and replace it the proper 
 length. 
 
 Shortening off The off lead. Push through from the front. 
 
 lead rein. 
 
 The near wheel. This rein will be found 
 
 Shortening 
 
 near wheel. t h e most difficult of all to keep in its right 
 place and to shorten. It constantly slips 
 when the horses pull, and for beginners it is 
 certainly the best plan to pull it through from 
 behind. It can also be done by lengthening 
 out the off-lead rein from the front, and then 
 pushing both reins back together. 
 
 Shortening off The off wheel. Push it through from the 
 
 wheel. 
 
 front with the right hand.
 
 FOUR HORSES. 87 
 
 The two centre reins. Always adjust them Shortening 
 from the front. If the leaders are not straight 
 in front of you, which will be found a very 
 common occurrence, but are running to the 
 right, they will generally come straight by 
 pulling the two centre reins through the left 
 hand from the front, so as to lengthen them a 
 little ; on the contrary, if the leaders are 
 running to the left, push these two reins back 
 so as to shorten them. 
 
 If, however, they are going to the right or 
 left simply because you are holding the off 
 or the near-lead rein too short, let out this 
 rein only, just enough to bring the leaders 
 square. 
 
 The following are probably the easiest and Passing off 
 
 across road. 
 
 most effective methods of passing off across 
 the road, or of turning to the right or 
 left : 
 
 I. To the left. Turn the left-hand knuckles
 
 HINTS ON DRIVING. 
 
 upwards, and pass -it across the body from 
 left to right ; the horses will incline to the 
 left, the reins on that side being shortened. 
 
 To the right. Pass the left hand down 
 towards the left hip, back of the hand to the 
 front, with the knuckle of the forefinger down- 
 wards and that of the little finger uppermost; 
 this shortens the right-hand reins and causes 
 the team to incline in that direction. The 
 whip can be applied to the off- wheeler in the 
 first instance, or the near one in the second, 
 in front of the pad, if the horses do not cross 
 rapidly enough. 
 
 2. To the left. With the right hand seize 
 the near-lead and wheel reins under the lower 
 fingers ; then either pull those reins up towards 
 the centre of the body, which will shorten 
 them, or allow the left hand to go slightly to 
 the front, which will slack off the right reins, 
 or better still, combine both these motions,
 
 FOUR HORSES. 89 
 
 the result being the same in each case, that 
 the team will go to the .left. 
 
 To the right. Take hold of the off-lead 
 and wheel reins with the lower fingers of the 
 right hand, and treat them in the same way as 
 
 FIG. 18. STEADYING TEAM WITH RIGHT HAND. 
 
 described for the left reins, when the team will 
 go to the right. 
 
 The latter of the two methods is by far the 
 best and the one most usually employed, the 
 other only being possible with very perfectly
 
 9 o 
 
 HINTS ON DRIVING. 
 
 broken teams, as obviously only very little 
 pressure can be put on. 
 To steady the In order to steady the horses or to ease the 
 
 *?/! 
 
 FIG. 19. HOW LOOP SHOULD BE TAKEN UP. 
 
 left hand, the right hand may be placed in 
 front of the other over all the four reins (fig. 1 8), 
 but it is generally preferable to have the hand 
 on only three reins for steadying purposes, the
 
 FOUR HORSES. gi 
 
 third and little fingers being over the off reins 
 and the upper fingers over only one of the 
 near reins. 
 
 It will now be necessary to explain the The point 
 term " point " or " loop." The point is made 10 P ' 
 
 FIG. 2O. LOOPING NEAR-LEAD REIN UNDER THUMB. 
 
 by taking hold of either the near or the off- 
 lead reins under the little and third fingers of 
 the right hand (not with the forefinger and 
 thumb), and placing it six inches or more 
 (according to the inclination of the turn),
 
 HINTS ON DRIVING. 
 
 Loop under in advance of the left, and then bringing it 
 back so as to form a loop under the left thumb 
 (figs. 20, 21 ), which must press the rein firmly 
 down on the forefinger. As a rule never move 
 the left hand forward while doing this. The 
 
 FIG. 21. LOOPING OFF-LEAD REIN UNDER THUMB. 
 
 off-lead rein can also be looped under the first 
 finger in turning to the right (fig. 22). 
 
 Turning to either side can be done as 
 follows : By pointing the near leader to turn 
 to the left (fig. 20), or the off leader to turn
 
 FOUR HORSES. 
 
 93 
 
 to the right (fig. 21) ; or, by pointing both the 
 near-lead and the near-wheel reins together to 
 go to the left, and similarly both the off-side 
 reins together to go to the right, at the same 
 
 FIG. 22. LOOPING OFF-LEAD REIN UNDER FIRST 
 FINGER. 
 
 time striking the opposite wheeler with the 
 whip in front of the pad after the point has 
 been made, if the horses are required to move 
 in either direction very quickly; or, by passing
 
 HINTS ON DRIVING. 
 
 Turning an 
 
 awkward 
 
 corner. 
 
 Meaning of 
 
 opposition 
 
 point. 
 
 the near-wheel rein round the left thumb, 
 and then looping the off-lead under the fore 
 finger (fig. 22), it will be found that the horses 
 will get more easily round a very sharp and 
 awkward corner to the right, especially going 
 down hill. In a like manner, by looping the 
 off-wheel rein under the forefinger of the left 
 hand, and then pointing the near leader under 
 the thumb, any difficult turn to the left can 
 be negotiated with perfect safety. This method 
 will often be found quicker and better than 
 passing the off-wheel rein under the thumb. 
 
 This looping up of the wheeler's rein on 
 the opposite side to which you are about to 
 turn may be termed the " Opposition point." 
 
 This device for preventing the wheelers 
 from cutting the corners will be found most 
 useful with horses that have been driven a 
 great deal in the wheel, because they soon 
 learn to recognize the indication given to the
 
 FOUR HORSES. 95 
 
 leaders by the shortening of the lead rein 
 passing along close to their heads. 
 
 Very often, when the wheelers are boring 
 to one side going down hill, and the whip is 
 
 FIG. 23. RIGHT HAND ON OFF-SIDE REINS TO PREVENT 
 WHEELERS CUTTING CORNER. 
 
 required, it is useful to loop up the wheeler's 
 rein on the opposite side to which ihey are 
 boring, before using the whip. 
 
 Be careful, when stretching out the right Do not lean 
 
 forward when 
 hand in order to take up the lead rein to loop looping.
 
 96 HINTS ON DRIVING. 
 
 it, not to lean the body forward, as it looks 
 very bad, and almost invariably shows that 
 the left hand is holding the reins too short 
 and is too far away from the body. 
 
 It is a common fault with beginners to 
 stretch out the left hand when looping, thus 
 taking up a larger loop than would be neces- 
 sary, if the left hand had a proper hold of the 
 horses' heads. 
 
 The loop once made should not be allowed 
 to slip until the turn is completed. 
 
 The right hand, having once caught up the 
 loop, and given the leaders the office which 
 way to turn, is then free to be used in any of 
 the following ways : to seize both the off-side 
 reins, if turning to the left, to prevent the 
 wheelers from going too quickly round the 
 Prevent corner (fig. 23) ; to assist them, if not turning 
 
 wheelers 
 
 cutting sharply enough, by catching hold of the near- 
 
 side reins ; to do just the opposite if turning
 
 FOUR HORSES. 
 
 97 
 
 to the right ; or finally to use the whip on 
 either of the wheelers, by hitting the outside one 
 to make them come round more quickly, or the 
 
 FIG. 24. OPPOSITION POINT TO THE RIGHT. 
 
 inside one to prevent them cutting the corner. 
 
 More than one point can be made, if a Looping a 
 
 second time, 
 
 large enough loop has not been taken up at when first loop 
 first, but usually one point is sufficient, 
 enough rein being taken up the first time to 
 complete the turn. 
 
 H
 
 98 7/LVTS ON DRIVING. 
 
 Sometimes at a very sharp corner two 
 
 points are necessary, as you may find that the 
 
 first one is not bringing the leaders round 
 
 fast enough. 
 
 Opposition The opposition point to the right is made 
 
 point to right. 
 
 by putting the near-wheel rein round the left 
 thumb, passing it from inside from right to 
 left, and then making the point with the off- 
 lead rein under the forefinger (fig. 24). When 
 once round, first let go the point of the leader, 
 and then that of the near wheeler. Conversely, 
 Opposition the opposition point to the left is made by 
 putting the off-wheel rein under the forefinger 
 of the left hand, and then pointing the near- 
 lead rein under the thumb (fig. 25). In order 
 to avoid having two reins looped up under 
 the thumb, it seems better to use the fore- 
 finger for one of the loops and the thumb 
 for the other ; in this manner either loop can 
 be let go separately.
 
 FOUR HORSES. 
 
 It should hardly ever be necessary to shortening 
 shorten the lead reins when going down hill, dowSl* 
 as the mere fact of the wheelers coming back 
 
 FIG. 25. OPPOSITION POINT TO THE LEFT. 
 
 out of draught to hold back the coach will 
 make you shorten up the reins enough to 
 bring the leaders out of draught at the same 
 time. If anything, it will be found necessary
 
 HINTS ON DRIVING. 
 
 to shorten the wheel reins, more especially if 
 the hill is very steep and the wheelers are 
 loosely poled up. 
 Leaders out of Going down hill the leaders should just 
 
 draught going 
 
 downhill. carry the bars, and nothing more. They 
 should not put any strain at all on the pole, 
 for by doing so they obviously tend to 
 counteract the efforts of the wheelers to keep 
 back the coach. In order to carry the bars 
 the traces should be slack, but not slack 
 enough to let the whole weight of the bars 
 weigh down on the pole, which would put so 
 much extra weight on the wheelers' necks. 
 
 Leaders must Be careful that the leaders are not straining 
 
 not pull on 
 
 pole when on the pole when turning a corner, as other- 
 
 turning. 
 
 wise the wheelers will inevitably be pulled 
 sharply across on to the pavement or foot- 
 path, and the pole may be broken.
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 FOUR-IN-HAND THE WHIP. 
 
 YOU must learn to play with the whip neatly, HOW to hold 
 and to be able to use it skilfully on any of the 
 horses. The handle should rest in the palm 
 of the right hand, and be kept firmly in its 
 place by the action of the thumb pressing 
 against the base of the forefinger ; the lower 
 fingers will then be left free to catch hold of 
 the reins. 
 
 If, however, it is necessary to pull the reins 
 through from behind, the lower fingers must 
 be tightened on the handle so as to allow the 
 thumb and forefinger to be used. 
 
 Always take care that the whip is in its 
 right place, and the thong properly done up.
 
 HINTS ON DRIVING. 
 
 Angle of whip. Hold the whip at an angle of about thirty 
 degrees to the left front and about forty 
 degrees upwards, and not as in the picture 
 opposite (fig. 26). 
 
 The thong ought to have three or four turns 
 round the stick, the first turn beginning close 
 to or on the quill, which is always covered 
 with black twine. 
 
 No k-inks in Pay special attention to holding the whip 
 
 lash. 
 
 so that the double thong hangs straight down 
 
 and -has no kinks in it. If there should be 
 any kinks they can be taken out by adding a 
 turn or two on the stick, or by taking some 
 off. 
 
 Do not hold the whip tighter than is abso- 
 lutely necessary. In fact, when the hand is on 
 the reins the grip may be released altogether 
 for a time, as they will hold it up ; this will 
 give the thumb a rest. Holding it loosely 
 also ensures the double thong hanging straight
 
 FOUR-IK-HAND. 
 
 103 
 
 down, as then it will do so by reason of its 
 own weight. It looks excessively bad to see 
 the whip held all sideways, but it will con- 
 
 FIG. 26. RESULT OF HOLDING WHIP IN WRONG POSITION. 
 
 stantly get into that position unless the tyro 
 pays great attention to keeping it straight. 
 
 The point of the lash should be just under Lash of whip 
 
 under thumb. 
 
 the inside of the thumb ; this will keep it from
 
 104 
 
 HINTS ON DRIVING. 
 
 Position of 
 whip hand. 
 
 Balance of 
 whip. 
 
 Choice of 
 whip. 
 
 slipping. Hold the whip where it balances 
 comfortably, the end of the stick close to, and 
 under the forearm, the wrist well bent, and 
 the elbow close to the side. 
 
 When the right hand is not on the reins or 
 using the whip, it should be kept close to the 
 left, the forearm being about horizontal. It 
 can then rest on the thigh, and yet be ready 
 for any emergency. 
 
 A good whip should balance well when 
 held at or close to the collar (this should come 
 nearly under the thumb), otherwise it will 
 be found top-heavy and clumsy. 
 
 The collar is the plate about ten inches from 
 the thick end of the stick, and is sometimes 
 termed the top ferrule. 
 
 In choosing a whip the most essential points 
 are : firstly, that it should balance as above ; 
 secondly, that it should be fairly light and 
 springy springiness being useful, because it
 
 FOUR-IN-HAND. 
 
 105 
 
 renders a whip very much easier to catch ; and, 
 thirdly, that it should have some knots near 
 
 F.-G. 27. PREPARING TO CATCH THONG. 
 
 the top, as they materially assist in keeping 
 the thong up, though too many will be
 
 io6 HINTS ON DRIVING. 
 
 found an impediment to getting it out 
 quickly. 
 How to catch A very good way to learn to catch the 
 
 thong of whip. 
 
 thong neatly round the stick is this : chalk a 
 large pot-hook or 6" on the wall ; stand oppo- 
 site to this with the whip held in the proper 
 position, the thong undone, and the point 
 of the lash under the middle finger of the 
 right hand, the forefinger rather pointed up 
 the stick (fig. 27) ; then with the point of the 
 whip quickly follow the line as traced on the 
 wall, beginning from the bottom end, and 
 moving it across from left to right; the 
 top part of the 5 should be done by a back 
 turn of the wrist, first upwards and then down- 
 wards, which will bring the fingers uppermost 
 at the finish. Never let the point of the whip 
 drop at the beginning of the 5", and never hit 
 at the thong, but on the contrary make it 
 come up to the stick. If you find that the
 
 FOUK-LV-HAND. 
 
 thong is caught rather too low down, it 
 can be very easily sent up higher by catching 
 it again as above, but with rather a shorter 
 
 \ 
 
 FIG. 28. THONG CAUGHT UP BEFORE LOOP HAS T>EEN 
 TAKEN OFF. 
 
 and more jerky motion, in fact describing 
 a small .5. 
 
 This is done almost entirely by the wrist, 
 with only a slight movement of the arm.
 
 loS 
 
 HINTS ON DRIVING. 
 
 Taking out Having caught the thong (fig. 28), the next 
 
 thing to be done is to take out the loop which 
 will be found in the middle of the stick, so 
 
 loop in lash. 
 
 FIG. 29. TAKING OFF LOOP. 
 
 that all the turns should be from right to left ; 
 otherwise it will very soon come undone. 
 To do this, lower the stick so as to enable 
 the left thumb to seize the loop (taking care
 
 FO UR-IN-HA ND. 109 
 
 not to move the left hand from its correct 
 position while doing so) ; now move the whip 
 hand out to the right front as far as possible, 
 keeping the wrist well bent and holding 
 the lash tight with the left thumb (fig. 29). 
 This movement will take off the turns on the 
 lower end of the stick. Now place the whip 
 under the left thumb, and turn the spare 
 end of the lash once or twice round the handle End of lash 
 
 round handle 
 (fig. 30). With the right hand retain the point O f whip. 
 
 of the lash securely under the inside of the 
 right thumb, which will prevent the thong 
 getting loose. If the point slips up, it can be 
 pulled tight again by catching hold of it with 
 the left thumb and forefinger, and drawing 
 the right hand away. 
 
 The thong should be kept pliable by being HOW to keep 
 
 lush pliiuit. 
 
 rubbed with salad oil or mutton fat ; otherwise 
 it will be found difficult to keep it in its 
 proper place when caught
 
 no 
 
 HIXTS ON DRIVING. 
 
 The following rules should be followed 
 in hitting the horses : 
 How to hit The wheelers should be hit in front of 
 
 horses with 
 whip. 
 
 FiG. 30. SECURING LASH BY TWISTING IT ROUND 
 HANDLE OF WHIP. 
 
 the pad to avoid making them kick. If ever 
 they should attempt to kick, a severe blow 
 about the ears will usually put a stop to 
 it. Generally move the whip from left to
 
 FOUR-IN-HAND. 
 
 right, keeping the wrist nearly stiff, and doing 
 it as far as possible from the elbow, without 
 any circular motion of the forearm. With a 
 fidgety near wheeler it is advisable to hit the 
 off one on the outside. It is no use hitting 
 the wheelers if the leaders' reins are too long ; 
 in this case you must first shorten up the 
 leaders' reins, and then use the whip on the 
 wheelers ; otherwise, as soon as the wheelers 
 have jumped into their collars, the leaders will 
 again press forward, and allow the wheelers to 
 hang back as before. 
 
 The best way to hit the off leader is first to Hitting off 
 
 leader, 
 bring the top of the whip from the near to the 
 
 off side of the coach ; then undo the thong by 
 swinging the stick round and round, at the 
 same time keeping the point of the lash under 
 the first finger. Next bring the right hand 
 down close to the left, and place the left 
 thumb over the point of the lash so as to
 
 HINTS ON DRIVING. 
 
 keep it clear of everything. Now swing the 
 stick back to the right until the wrist is 
 about in line with the shoulder, at the same 
 time releasing the point from under the 
 thumb. This should be done with very little 
 movement of the wrist. Make a good circular 
 turn and bring the stick to the front again 
 sharply, aiming with the point a little in front 
 of the spot you wish to hit. In doing this the 
 lash can travel to the front either above or 
 below the stick, but in traffic, or when under 
 trees, the latter will be found the safer. 
 
 The only place the point of the whip 
 should ever crack is on the horse, and never 
 under any circumstances in the air, which 
 would be dangerous, especially to those on 
 the back seat, besides being very unworkman- 
 like. 
 
 The lash should hit the leaders under 
 the bars on their hocks, as it does not look
 
 FOUR-IN-HAND. 
 
 well to see wheals or streaks of mud on the 
 horses' flanks and quarters. 
 
 To hit the near leader, begin as before, but Hitting near 
 instead of making the lash go to the off side 
 of the coach, throw the right hand well up and 
 make a good swing with the stick, so that the 
 lash may go well over the heads of the 
 passengers from the off to the near side, 
 and then by dropping the point of the stick 
 and letting the hand go slightly out to the 
 front, it will be found that the lash will swing 
 in and hit the near leader, while passing out- 
 side and avoiding the near wheeler's head. 
 
 Having once hit the leader, the lash should Bringing back 
 be brought back on the near side of the coach. 
 Do not attempt to get it straight back to your 
 hand, otherwise you will most likely hit the 
 wheeler, or the passenger on the box seat, but 
 just send the lash out to the front over the 
 leaders with a circular motion, and then by 
 I
 
 ii 4 I II A' IS ON DRIVING. 
 
 holding the stick nearly upright it will come 
 into your hand or under your arm (fig. 31). 
 This will leave the right hand free 10 steady the 
 horses, which will generally be found necessary. 
 The lash, having been brought back to the near 
 side of the coach, can also be recovered by 
 raising the whip vertically and bringing it over 
 the wheeler's back. This, although a quicker 
 plan than the other, will not be found so easy 
 or so safe. 
 Hitting near The near leader can also be hit from the 
 
 leader under 
 
 bars. n side under the bars. To do this the lash 
 
 must be thrown outwards, away from the 
 coach, and then brought back swinging under 
 the stick, so that the point passes between 
 the off wheeler and the off leader just under 
 the end of the pole. This requires a con- 
 siderable amount of practice, otherwise the 
 off-side horses will often be hit by mistake. 
 Another very useful method is to throw the
 
 FIG. 31. BRINGING BACK THONG OF WHIP AFTER 
 HITTING A LEADER.
 
 ii6 HINTS ON DRIVING. 
 
 lash between the wheelers' heads, hitting the 
 leader on the quarter. 
 
 When once the lash has been secured under 
 
 the wrist or forearm, it can easily be placed 
 
 Placing lash under the left thumb by bringing the right 
 
 under thumb 
 
 before hand down close to the left. Holding it firmly 
 
 catching 
 
 up> in this position, draw the whip hand away to 
 
 the right front, keeping the wrist well bent, 
 and allowing the lash to slide through the 
 middle finger of this hand. 
 
 This can be repeated until the point of the 
 lash has been pulled up into the right hand, 
 when the thong can be caught on the stick as 
 usual. If you catch the lash straight into the 
 right hand the point may be got hold of by 
 throwing the point of the stick upwards, and 
 allowing the lash to slide through the middle 
 finger. This is not nearly such a good plan 
 as that described above, for you may easily 
 throw the lash away altogether, and thus
 
 FO UR-IN-HA ND. \ \ 7 
 
 have to catch it again. Be careful, when you 
 have the point of the lash in the right hand, 
 to see that the loop is well clear of everything 
 before catching it up on the stick, as it often 
 gets caught round the handle of the footboard See that thong 
 
 is not caught 
 or against the reins, which utterly spoils the O n footboard. 
 
 catch. You should never hit a horse with the Never use 
 
 whip when 
 whip while the right hand is holding a rein ; right hand on 
 
 reins- 
 
 it looks very awkward, and is most unwork- 
 manlike. Should you have a loop of a rein 
 in the right hand, as you might have when 
 going round a corner to the right, first place 
 the loop under the left thumb or forefinger, 
 and then use the whip. 
 
 If when hitting a leader the lash should get To release 
 
 lash caught in 
 
 caught round the bars or harness, do not jerk harness - 
 or pull it hard, but shake it loosely up and 
 down ; otherwise it will most likely get caught 
 all the tighter. 
 
 If you want to use the right hand on the Whip under 
 
 thigh.
 
 n8 HINTS ON DRIVING. 
 
 reins while the lash is caught, place the 
 
 handle under the thigh and sit on it. Should 
 
 Lash caught the whip get fast in the bough of a tree or a 
 
 in tree. 
 
 lamp-post, on the near side, the only thing to 
 do is to let it go at once, letting your hand go 
 well up and over to the left. You will then 
 avoid hitting the passenger on the box seat. 
 Constant practice with the whip is absolutely 
 essential ; no one can drive well until he 
 has thorough control over it, and is able to 
 manipulate it in such a way that the horse 
 struck is the only one which knows that it is 
 being used
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 FOUR-IN-HAND. STARTING PULLING UP 
 TURNING. 
 
 BEFORE starting have a good look round and Looking 
 
 round before 
 
 see that the horses are properly put in, that starting, 
 the harness is correctly put on and fitted, and 
 more especially that the bits are rightly ad- 
 justed and the reins put in the correct places. 
 Take care also that the pole-pin is in its 
 place. It is never safe to trust entirely to the 
 servants or ostlers. 
 
 The lead reins should never under any cir- Lead reins 
 
 should never 
 
 cumstances be buckled together ; the reason be buckled, 
 of this is that if the main bar gets broken, the 
 leaders will be able to pull the reins through 
 and get clear away. On road coaches it is
 
 HINTS ON DRIVING. 
 
 customary to leave both lead and wheel reins 
 unbuckled. 
 
 Place the whip neatly caught up in the 
 socket, if not already there. Standing along- 
 side of the off wheeler's quarters, with the 
 Preparing to right hand take hold of the leaders' reins 
 
 start taking 
 
 up reins. without touching the horses' mouths, and place 
 
 them in the left hand, the forefinger between 
 them ; next take hold of the wheelers' reins, 
 placing the middle finger of the left hand 
 between them, without pulling them so tight 
 as to feel their mouths. 
 
 Then with the right hand pull out the 
 off-side reins twelve to eighteen inches, and 
 see that the splicing on the lead reins 
 and the buckles of the couplings in the 
 wheel reins are about the same distance 
 from the left hand. The reins will then 
 be about level when you are seated on the 
 box.
 
 FOUR-IN-HAND. 
 
 Having done this, transfer the four reins to Transferring 
 
 reins to right 
 
 the right hand, but one finger lower down hand before 
 than they are held in the left ; the first finger 
 will then be free to hold on to the footboard 
 whilst climbing up. 
 
 In order to help yourself on to the box, Mounting 
 
 bOX SC3.U 
 
 catch hold of the lamp wire with the left 
 hand, place the left foot on the pipe box of 
 the wheel, the right foot on the roller of the 
 splinter bar ; then the left foot can be raised 
 on to the step and the right foot on to the 
 footboard. 
 
 Now sit down on the seat at once; other- Sit down at 
 
 once when 
 wise if the horses start off suddenly you may mounted. 
 
 be pitched off. Immediately transfer the reins 
 from the right hand back to the left, by pass- 
 ing the fingers of the left hand just in front of 
 the fingers of the right, the forefinger of the left 
 hand being opposite the middle finger of the 
 right. Then adjust any rein not found to be
 
 HINTS ON DRIVING. 
 
 Rug or apron correct. It is always advisable to have a rug 
 
 necessary. 
 
 or apron over your knees, as not only does it 
 look untidy to be without one, but it also 
 saves your trousers immensely, as the reins 
 are sure to touch them to a certain extent 
 and wear them out, especially in damp 
 weather. As soon as you have arranged the 
 reins satisfactorily in the left hand, being 
 especially careful not to have them too long, 
 take the whip out of the socket and keep it in 
 Caution to . the right hand. Before starting always give 
 
 passengers 
 
 before starling the caution, " Sit fast," or ask if " All right 
 
 horses. 
 
 behind ? " as many a man has been jerked off 
 from not knowing that the coach was going 
 to start. 
 
 To start To start, feel all the horses' mouths, and, if 
 
 horses. 
 
 necessary, give them the word to go, dropping 
 
 the hand to them at once until the coach is 
 fairly off. Nothing tends more to make 
 horses jib than holding on to their heads at
 
 FO UR-L\- HA ND, 1 2 3 
 
 the moment of starting. The wheelers ought wheelers start 
 to start the coach, and this can be effected by 
 touching them with the whip if they require a 
 hint. Do not, however, en any account hit a 
 wheeler which is inclined to jib, but make the 
 others get the coach moving. 
 
 To be able to start horses well is perhaps 
 the most difficult thing which the young 
 driver has to learn. The knack can only be 
 acquired by experience, and no absolute rules 
 can be laid down for his guidance, as no two 
 teams are alike in temper and disposition. 
 
 Before starting have the rugs taken off 
 quietly, not snatched off, and, as soon as you 
 are ready, make the grooms stand well clear 
 of the horses' heads. Then start them as 
 quietly as possible, devoting all your skill to 
 getting the coach under weigh at once, with- 
 out pulling at the horses' heads, as nothing 
 irritates horses so much, or is more apt to
 
 124 HfNTS ON DRIVING. 
 
 make them jib, than jerking their mouths, or 
 having to pull up and start afresh. As soon 
 as they are well started, you can bring your 
 hand back a little and feel their mouths 
 properly. Then if you find that the horses 
 are not going straight you must re-adjust the 
 reins as quickly as possible ; this is a most 
 difficult thing for a beginner to do neatly. It 
 is a good plan to start with the near-wheel 
 rein rather shorter than the off, as that is the 
 most difficult rein to shorten in a hurry. 
 Whip should It is never safe to start the coach without 
 
 be in the hand, 
 
 ready for use having the whip in the right hand ready for 
 immediate use. The whip is to the driver 
 what the leg is to the rider, i.e., it keeps the 
 horses up to their bits. 
 
 As soon as the horses are going straight 
 take the right hand off the reins, at the same 
 time keeping it close by ready for any emer- 
 gency.
 
 FO UK-IN-HAND. 
 
 125 
 
 A great deal cf the neatness in driving Left hand 
 
 must give and 
 
 depends on what may be termed the give and take 
 take of the left hand. That is, it can be 
 allowed to go forward or be lowered a little, 
 or be pulled back close to the body ; for 
 instance, in order to pull across the road to 
 the right, the right hand should pull the off 
 side reins, while the left hand at the same 
 time moves slightly to the front so as to slack 
 off the near side reins. In this way both 
 hands do their share of the work, and an 
 exaggerated movement of the right hand is 
 rendered unnecessary. Much can also be 
 done by turning the back of the left hand 
 either up or down. The principal effect of 
 this is to shorten or lengthen the near-lead 
 rein, and so pull the leaders more or less 
 across the road. 
 
 When you want to pull up, shorten all the Pulling up. 
 four reins by passing the left hand up to the
 
 126 HINTS ON DRIVING. 
 
 right, or else by pulling all the four reins 
 through from behind as before explained ; 
 then having the right forefinger on the near- 
 lead rein, the middle finger on the near 
 wheel, and the lower fingers of the right hand 
 on the off reins (see fig. 35), pull both hands 
 back towards the body, and if necessary lean 
 back a little. It is not easy to pull up exactly 
 square, as one wheeler will very often hang 
 back much more than the other. This can be 
 regulated by pulling rather harder with the 
 middle finger to keep the wheelers to the left, 
 or by pressing strongly with the lower part 
 of the hand, in order to keep them to the 
 right. 
 
 Should the horses be getting the better of 
 you, and you find that you cannot stop them, 
 it will be found a great assistance to place 
 the right leg over all the four reins, as you 
 may then be able to stop them by the extra
 
 FOUR-IN-HAKD. 127 
 
 power and leverage you gain by the position 
 of the leg. 
 
 Having pulled up at the end of a stage, 
 professional coachmen always throw the reins 
 down with both hands outside the wheelers. 
 
 With plenty of room a coach can be When turning 
 
 round, go 
 
 turned round at a considerable pace, but for slow, 
 this a wide sweep must be taken. 
 
 Unless there is at least twenty yards, re 
 member to go very slowly ; otherwise the Coach may 
 
 lock and 
 
 coach may lock, and then nothing can save upset. 
 it from overturning except the breaking of 
 the pole. 
 
 In any case great care must be taken to 
 keep the wheelers well out and the leaders' 
 bars very slack. To do this it is well to put 
 on the opposition point, and take a large loop 
 in the leaders' reins. 
 
 If it is necessary to turn in a very narrow Turning in 
 
 narrow road. 
 
 road, it is generally better to take the leaders
 
 128 HINTS ON DRIVING. 
 
 out, but it can also be done in the following 
 manner : 
 
 Pull off to the left side of the road as far as 
 possible, and then pull up to 'a walk ; slant 
 the horses across the road to the right by ad- 
 vancing a little, and then halt, pulling strongly 
 on the near reins so as to get the pole 
 across to the left ; shorten up all the reins, and 
 with the little finger of the right hand on the 
 off-side reins, and the middle finger on the 
 Backing coach near-wheel rein, pull back the horses, backing 
 
 to enable turn 
 
 to be made. tne coach as far as circumstances will admit. 
 When again halted the coach ought to be at 
 right angles to the road. The leaders must 
 now be brought right round to the right, and 
 in order to do this it is usual to shake the off- 
 lead rein a little before taking up the loop, 
 otherwise the leaders may come back on to 
 the pole. 
 
 The wheelers must be brought round after
 
 FO UR-IN-HAND. 1 29 
 
 the leaders, care being taken not to bring 
 them round too quickly, so as to lock the 
 fore-carriage. Turning to the left is done in 
 a similar manner. With unsteady horses it is 
 safer to take out the leaders, as they are apt 
 to be hit by the bars, or come back on the 
 pole. 
 
 Always pull the reins that you take up Pull of right 
 
 hand should 
 
 with the right hand towards the centre of the i, e towards 
 
 centre of 
 
 body, and on no account let your hands move body< 
 across to the side to which you want the 
 horses to go. This rather appears to be the 
 natural tendency, but it must be overcome. 
 It is often unnecessary to loop when going Turning 
 
 corner without 
 
 round a gentle curve, and it may be sufficient looping. 
 to pull the lead rein with the right hand, and 
 then, while still retaining a slight bight in it, 
 to catch hold of the wheel rein on the same 
 side just below ; by this means you pull both 
 the reins on the same side, but with greater 
 K
 
 130 
 
 HINTS ON DRIVING. 
 
 force on the lead rein than on the wheel. 
 This plan may also be adopted for slanting 
 across the road
 
 CHAPTER IX, 
 
 FOUR-IN-HAND. VARIOUS USEFUL HINTS 
 WHAT SPARE ARTICLES TO CARRY, ETC. 
 
 THE beginner must not suppose that a team, 
 or for that matter even one horse, can be 
 driven with the left hand only ; even the very 
 best of whips is obliged to have constant 
 recourse to the right hand, especially when 
 passing through traffic. 
 
 At the same time, he must remember to 
 resist the temptation of keeping the right 
 hand permanently on the reins, nor should 
 it ever be employed like the coachman's 
 hand in fig. 3, in holding on to a bight 
 of the off reins in order to keep the horses 
 straight.
 
 I 3 2 HINTS ON DRIVING. 
 
 The team ought to run perfectly straight at 
 any time with the reins in the left hand only ; 
 and as a continuous pressure of the right 
 hand is very liable to cause any one of the 
 reins to slip, especially the near wheel when 
 the horses are pulling, this practice is objec- 
 tionable. Of course if the left hand gets 
 tired, the right must come to its assistance, 
 and then it should be placed either on three 
 or all four reins (see figs. 18 and 35). 
 Always keep a Mind and keep a good steady pressure on 
 
 steady pressure 
 
 on reins. the reins at all times, and keep the horses up 
 
 to that pressure with the whip. The most 
 common fault among amateurs is that they 
 do not hold their horses nearly tight enough 
 
 Reins slipping by the head. Always have a good hold of 
 
 a common 
 
 fault. them, and above all things remember never 
 
 to let the reins slip through the fingers. 
 This is a constant cause of horses getting out 
 of hand, and pulling for a long way, when
 
 FOUR-L\'-HA!\'D. 133 
 
 they would otherwise have gone quite com- 
 fortably after the first mile or so. 
 
 To prevent the reins from slipping, if the Resin or wax 
 
 on gloves, 
 horses are pulling, and especially with new 
 
 gloves, it will be found very convenient to 
 put a little powdered resin or beeswax on 
 the fingers and palm of the hand. 
 
 If you have time, always start slowly (at Start slow, 
 first six or seven miles an hour) ; by adopt- 
 ing this plan the horses will go more kindly, 
 and after a bit your arm and fingers will feel 
 much less tired than if you had started at a 
 rapid pace. 
 
 It is very important to keep the right wrist Right wrist 
 
 well rounded 
 
 well rounded when pulling the reins on either w hen right 
 side, and the back of the hand rather inclined back ; nc i^ ne( / 
 
 downwards. downward,. 
 
 By keeping the hand in this position it will Point of whip 
 
 to be kept 
 
 be found that the point of the whip is kept we n up an j t o 
 well to the front and high up. If the back of
 
 134 HINTS ON DRIVING. 
 
 the hand is turned up at all, the whip is sure 
 either to cause considerable inconvenience to 
 the person on the box seat (fig. 26), or else to 
 hit the near wheeler close to his tail. This 
 will most probably make him swish it, and 
 if it should by any chance get over the 
 thong, the result may be disastrous to the 
 boot. 
 
 Team boring If the horses are all boring to the left, it is 
 how to no use s ' m ply pulling at the two off-side 
 
 remedy. reins with the right hand, but at once shorten 
 
 these reins in the left. 
 
 This can be done either by shortening them 
 singly, or by catching hold of the two off-side 
 reins as usual, placing the forefinger over the 
 near lead, and the middle finger over the near 
 wheel, and then allowing the near-side reins 
 to slide a little through the fingers of both 
 hands, while still retaining a firm grip of the 
 off-side reins. Of course, however, only a
 
 FOUR-IN-HAND. 135 
 
 very little can be got out at a time by this 
 method. 
 
 Another plan is to grip the reins tightly 
 with the right hand, the first two fingers over 
 the near-side reins, the lower fingers over the 
 off, and then to open the fingers of the left 
 hand, when the off-side reins can be pushed 
 through them by turning the lower part of 
 the right hand towards the left (see figs. 18 
 and 35). 
 
 Never on any account take the left hand Never remove 
 
 left hand from 
 out of the reins, even though the right may reins. 
 
 be holding them firmly in front, as it is very 
 difficult to get the left hand back into its 
 place again with the reins in the right places. 
 Of course, if your fingers are numbed from 
 cold or from hard pulling, it will be necessary 
 to take the hand out and slap the fingers on 
 the thigh. But if the horses seem to be Taking 
 
 leaders reins 
 
 going all anyhow, take the leaders out with out w hh right 
 
 hand.
 
 136 HINTS ON DRIVING. 
 
 the right hand, the little finger over the off lead, 
 and the first or second finger over the near lead 
 (fig. 32) ; then adjust the wheelers by letting 
 the rein which is too short slide gently 
 Lead reins through the left hand, and replace the leaders 
 
 should seldom 
 
 be removed If the reins are found to be too long, shorten 
 
 hand. them a11 ^ rom behind. This plan should be 
 
 rarely resorted to, as it is a very bad habit to 
 
 perpetually fiddle with the lead reins. 
 
 Keep an eye Always keep an eye on the position of the 
 
 always on 
 
 horses. horses, and see that they are in their right 
 
 places, and that each is doing his fair share 
 
 of work. 
 
 If any horse is out of his place, find out 
 
 the cause, and adjust the rein or use the whip 
 
 accordingly. 
 Grip tightly Always keep the left hand and elbow in 
 
 with third and 
 
 little fingers to their proper positions, and keep a firm grip of 
 
 prevent reins 
 
 slipping. the reins with the third and little fingers 
 
 never on any account allowing one to slip.
 
 FOUR-IN-HAND. 137 
 
 This cannot be too strongly insisted on, 
 although it will be found very tiring at first, 
 even if the horses are not pulling. 
 
 When catching or attending to the whip, DO not drop 
 beginners are very apt to drop the left hand. 
 
 FIG. 32. TAKING LEADERS 1 REINS OUT OF LEFT HAND 
 WITH RIGHT HAND. 
 
 This leads to horses getting out of hand, and 
 makes them pull. 
 
 Do not allow the left hand to go moving when looping 
 
 do not alter 
 
 across the body from side to side, or to position of i e f t 
 move to the front to pick up the hand "
 
 I 3 8 HINTS ON DRIVING. 
 
 reins ; except occasionally when turning 
 to the left, when it may be useful to loop 
 thus : 
 
 Hold the off-side reins under little and 
 third ringers of the right hand ; then take 
 hold of the near-lead rein with the forefinger 
 some three inches away from left hand ; and 
 holding it tight bring it up as much as 
 possible towards the body, at the same time 
 quickly passing the left hand down so as to 
 catch the near-lead rein in front of the right 
 forefinger with the left thumb ; then bring 
 the left hand back to its original position, 
 and you have a good loop, and the wheelers 
 are checked from rushing the corner by the 
 lower part ot the right hand pressing on 
 the off reins. 
 Leader's tail If one of the leaders gets his tail over the 
 
 over reins. 
 
 reins, never pull at it, but, on the contrary, 
 slack it out. Pull the wheelers across to that
 
 FO UR-IN-HA ND. 1 39 
 
 side on which the offender is running ; then 
 hit the wheeler on the opposite side, on his 
 neck, when the movement of the wheelers to 
 one side will probably clear the rein. 
 
 Another plan for getting the rein out is to Loosen rein 
 
 fixed under 
 slack it a good deal, and give the horse a sharp tail by hitting 
 
 hit with the whip behind the pad ; this will 
 nearly always cause him to swish his tail, . 
 when you can pull the rein quickly away. 
 
 If both the above methods fail, stop the 
 coach at once, when a man must get down 
 and release the rein by lifting up the leader's 
 tail, and not by pulling the rein away from 
 under it. 
 
 With a horse that habitually gets his tail To prevent 
 
 leader getting 
 
 over the reins and then kicks, it is a good tail over a rein, 
 plan to run the lead rein either through the 
 throat lash, or the inside loop of the bearing 
 rein of the wheeler which is on the opposite 
 side of the coach to the kicking leader.
 
 140 
 
 HINTS ON DRIVING. 
 
 The reins can also be run through the head 
 terrets or loops on the top of the wheelers' 
 heads, but if this is done it is better to use a 
 bearing-rein, because, if the horse shakes his 
 head up and down, he will inevitably jerk the 
 leader in the mouth. 
 
 These terrets have been almost entirely done 
 away with, as, if the leaders pull, they put a 
 great strain on the wheelers' heads, and if the 
 latter throw their heads up and down to any 
 great extent, they continually jerk the leader's 
 Objection to mouths, whereas by passing the lead reins 
 
 lead reins 
 
 passing through the ring on the throat lash of the 
 
 through 
 
 head terrets. wheeler there is almost a straight pull from 
 
 the leaders' mouths to the terrets on the pads 
 
 of the wheelers. 
 Side reins. Side reins are sometimes useful on leaders, 
 
 and have a good effect on hard-mouthed' 
 
 horses. 
 
 If on the outside, they should be fixed to
 
 FOUR-IN-HAND. 141 
 
 the buckle of the horse's own trace, but on the 
 inside to that of the other horse. 
 
 A very useful kind "of side rein has a brass 
 ring sewn into one end of it instead of a 
 buckle; a short strap or loop is passed 
 through this ring and buckled to each side 
 of the bit, while the other end of the rein 
 is buckled to the inside trace of the other 
 horse. 
 
 The ordinary rein used by the Artillery 
 Driver on his off horse will do equally well. 
 This consists of a long rein buckled to the 
 outside of the bit, and a short coupling piece 
 to the inside. If a horse pulls very hard and 
 tries to get in front of the other horse, either 
 of these reins will bring all the pull on to his 
 bit and keep him in his place. 
 
 The leaders' coupling reins should not be Fitting 
 
 coupling reins. 
 
 made too long or else the horses' tails may 
 get fixed in them a position from which it
 
 I42 HINTS ON DRIVING. 
 
 will be found that they are extricated with 
 difficulty. The buckles should come to 
 \vithin six or eight inches of the top of the 
 leaders' tails, which allows plenty of room 
 for taking up or letting out these reins. 
 To prevent Have a runner fixed about a foot below the 
 
 coupling rein buckle on the rein, through which the coupling 
 should be passed ; this will prevent any 
 chance of the buckle getting through the 
 terret. Messrs. Whippy and Steggall of 
 London have invented another simple device 
 to prevent this danger occurring. They place 
 a short steel plate, about five inches long, 
 covered with leather, and the same width as 
 the reins, between the rein and the coupling. 
 One end has a hole which passes through the 
 tongue of the buckle, and the other has a 
 runner on it, through which the coupling 
 passes, so as to admit of this rein being altered. 
 They also place two keepers on the rein just
 
 FOUR-IN-HAND. 
 
 143 
 
 below the buckle. By this means the steel 
 plate would be drawn across the terret and 
 the buckle could not possibly get through. 
 For the fitting of coupling reins the reader 
 must refer to Chapter III. 
 
 In order to prevent the wheel horses from To prevent 
 
 wheelers 
 rushing too quickly round a corner, which cu tting 
 
 , corners, 
 they very often try to do, it is usual to catch 
 
 hold either of both off or near-side reins 
 with the right hand, on the opposite side 
 to which you are turning, after having 
 looped. 
 
 When looping a wheel rein for the opposi- 
 tion point, take hold of the off rein from out- 
 side, but the near rein from above the two off 
 reins. 
 
 When striking a horse be careful to keep a Keep tight 
 
 hold of horse's 
 
 tight hold of him, as the whole effect of the head when 
 punishment will be lost if the reins are slack 
 or are allowed to slip.
 
 I 4 .; HINTS ON DRIVING. 
 
 Buckles of The buckles of the wheelers' reins should 
 
 wheel reins 
 
 should be be well within reach, but should not be so far 
 
 close to hands. 
 
 up as to come into the hand when going 
 
 down a steep hill or when pulling up. A foot 
 from the hand when the horses are in draught 
 will be found to be about right 
 Cruppers Cruppers will be found quite unnecessary 
 
 unnecessary 
 
 except \vith as a general rule, more especially on the 
 
 bearing-reins. 
 
 leaders, but if bearing-reins are used, it is 
 almost imperative to have them on, in 
 order to prevent the pads being pulled for- 
 ward on to the withers, and so galling the 
 horses. 
 
 Be careful not to have any spare end of 
 the crupper-strap hanging loose, or the lead 
 rein will be apt to get caught in it, and give 
 trouble. For this reason it is a good plan to 
 have the cruppers made martingale fashion, as 
 they have no spare ends, and only one runner 
 is required.
 
 FOUR-IN-HAND. 145 
 
 Both lead and wheel reins should be Reins should 
 
 be of equal 
 
 exactly the same width and thickness, and thickness, 
 should on no account be short. This is 
 extremely dangerous, as they might be easily 
 dropped. It is much better to have them 
 very long, but about two or three feet of 
 spare rein will usually be found sufficient 
 
 When leaders are inclined to fly away from Leaders flying 
 
 apart. 
 
 each other, or one of them hangs outwards, 
 the inside traces should be lapped round each 
 other and hooked into their own bars. This 
 will help to keep the horses together. It is 
 not a good plan, though it is sometimes done, 
 to fasten the leaders' bars together by a chain 
 as, if a horse kicks, and gets his legs fixed up 
 between the main bar and the others, it 
 becomes a very difficult matter to extricate 
 him. 
 
 The following spare articles should always Spare gear 
 
 should be 
 be carried on a coach : carried.
 
 146 HINTS ON DRIVING. 
 
 Two swingle-trees one large and one 
 small. 
 
 Two traces one lead and one wheel. 
 
 A jointed whip fixed up on a board. A 
 leather bag containing a hand punch with 
 assorted bits, and a McMahon spanner. 
 
 Brushing Brushing boots. Those made of fairly thick 
 
 boots. 
 
 blanket will be found the most useful. They 
 
 must be long enough to go right over the 
 fetlock and overlap, and should be fastened 
 round the middle with tape and be deep 
 enough for the upper part to be folded down 
 over the knot. 
 
 Collar-pads several leather ones are 
 required. 
 
 Sheepskin a good-sized piece. 
 
 Needle and waxed thread. 
 
 A few spare straps and buckles. 
 
 A few cheek leathers. 
 False collars. False collars, which can either be made of
 
 FOUR-IN-HAND. 147 
 
 leather or nummah, often come in very handy. 
 The advantage of the latter material over the 
 former consists in its being softer, and in the 
 event of a gall a piece can easily be cut 
 out ; but, on the other hand, it requires a more 
 roomy collar. 
 
 If the team are pulling too hard, stop Alter bits 
 
 when team 
 them occasionally and alter the bits. Lower- pulling. 
 
 ing these in the horses' mouths often has a 
 wonderful effect. You can also tighten the 
 curb-chains, or put the reins lower down on 
 the bits. Do not pull at your horses more 
 than you can help, but directly you feel that 
 they are getting the best of you stop at once, 
 and if possible give them up to another 
 driver. If three of the team can go ten Pace should 
 
 suit the 
 miles an hour, and the fourth horse only slowest horse. 
 
 eight, keep the three back to the slow one, 
 for you cannot make him go up to the others 
 without galloping. When, however, you are
 
 1 48 HIXTS ON DRIVING. 
 
 on a road coach, it is better to let the slow 
 horse gallop than to lose time. 
 
 Galloping. Galloping should not be attempted by the 
 
 novice, for until he has learnt to take a good 
 stcach- hold of the horses' heads it is really 
 very dangerous, not only on account of the 
 rapid pace, but because the coach will almost 
 certainly be set rocking in a very uncomfort- 
 able manner, and may eventually be upset. 
 
 How to pre- When a coach is found to be rocking, give 
 
 vent coach 
 
 rocking. the leaders a little more rein, so that their 
 
 traces may place a more constant strain on 
 the pole, which will then be steadied. Then 
 take hold of the horses' heads and slow down 
 gradually. 
 
 Horse's likes If possible try and find out what a horse 
 
 and dislikes. 
 
 likes and dislikes so as to avoid irritating 
 him. The sound of the horn annoys many 
 horses terribly, and makes them pull. Some- 
 times this can be got over by constantly
 
 FOUK-L\-HA\D. 149 
 
 blowing the horn in the stable. Some hate 
 the sound of the whip, so try and use it very 
 quietly. Others dislike the sound of heavy 
 carts rattling past them, and are in that case 
 best placed on the near side. 
 
 To become a really good judge of pace is Judging pace, 
 most difficult, but it is very important, and 
 can only be learned by constant and steady 
 practice. 
 
 To drive neatly the horses must above all 
 things be kept going straight along the road, 
 with the wheelers exactly behind the leaders. 
 Always save your cattle as much as possible, 
 and to this end never let them wobble across Team 
 
 wobbling. 
 
 the road. In some teams this tendency to 
 wobble is great, and must be checked at once. 
 This can only be done by continually watch- 
 ing them. One great cause of the coach Coach 
 
 wobbling, 
 
 wobbling is the fore-carriage moving stiffly, ap pi y grease . 
 owing to grit or mud having found its way in
 
 150 HINTS ON DRIVING. 
 
 between the plates a state of affairs which 
 can easily be remedied by a plentiful applica- 
 tion of grease. 
 Steering team Any such movement should be anticipated 
 
 like steering 
 
 a ship. in the same manner that a good helmsman 
 
 anticipates the swing of his ship, with a slight 
 motion of the rudder, as by so doing he is 
 never obliged to put his helm hard over. The 
 unaccustomed hand always waits too long, 
 till the ship has already swung, and then is 
 obliged to use a great deal of helm the result 
 being that he makes his course into a series of 
 zigzags. 
 
 In the same way a very slight pressure 
 applied on the reins at the right time will 
 keep the horses going perfectly straight and 
 true, without any pulling or jerking. 
 
 Treating four To attain this end it is very convenient to 
 
 reins as if only 
 
 three. treat the four reins as if there were only three, 
 
 the two off-side reins being treated as one and
 
 FOUR-IN-HAND. 
 
 al \vays kept together (fig. 33). Then all that 
 is necessary is to place the third and fourth 
 fingers on the off-side reins, and the middle 
 firmer on the near leader to check the ten- 
 
 FIG. 33. RIGHT HAND ASSISTING I.KFT (ON THREE 
 REINS ONLY). 
 
 dency of the leaders to run to the right or of 
 the wheelers to the left, or else the middle 
 finger on the near wheeler (fig. 33), to check 
 the tendency of the leaders to run to the left 
 or the wheelers to the right. This cannot be 
 too strongly impressed on the reader, as the
 
 152 HINTS ON DRIVING. 
 
 right hand has to be more frequently used in 
 this way than in any other. 
 Watching an A very good and inexpensive lesson in 
 
 omnibusdriver 
 
 is a good driving may be obtained by riding on the 
 box seat of an omnibus by the side of a good 
 driver through the most crowded parts of 
 London. The driver has not only to gauge 
 his own pace accurately, but also that of 
 the other vehicles he is meeting and passing. 
 
 This renders it absolutely necessary for him 
 to keep his eyes looking well to the front and 
 not always rivetted on the horses, otherwise 
 
 Judging pace he will be unable to judge exactly the relative 
 
 of other 
 
 carriages. positions of his own and the other vehicles on 
 the road, all of which, at any given moment, 
 will most probably be moving at different 
 rates of speed. 
 
 These things have to be calculated to a 
 nicety and almost instantaneously, if the 
 coachman washes to wend his way at a steady
 
 FOUR-IN-HAND. 153 
 
 and a fairly uniform pace through the busy 
 traffic of crowded thoroughfares like those of 
 the Metropolis. 
 
 When he finds that it would be impossible Change of 
 
 pace must be 
 
 to get through by continuing at an even pace, gradual. 
 he must either go faster or slow down. But 
 in either case the change of speed should be 
 gradual, so as to avoid any sudden jerks. 
 
 To be obliged frequently to pull up with a Pulling up 
 
 with jerk, had 
 
 jerk not only indicates bad driving, but causes driving, 
 the greatest discomfort to both passengers 
 and horses. Many London coachmen are in 
 the habit of treating their passengers in this 
 way, with the result that they are perpetually 
 jolted out of their seats and experience 
 sensations which are both unpleasant and 
 irritating. 
 
 The reason is not far to seek these coach- 
 men are bad judges of pace, interval, and 
 distance, and do not see till too late whether
 
 '54 
 
 HINTS OX DRIVING. 
 
 How to judge 
 width of 
 coach. 
 
 In passing 
 give room to 
 other 
 carriages 
 
 it is possible to get through or not. They 
 first hit their horses to try and get through, 
 and then at the last moment finding it impos- 
 sible are obliged to pull up suddenly. With 
 a heavy coach it is impossible to pull up at 
 once, so that the chances are a collision will 
 occur. 
 
 The width of a coach is judged as far as 
 the driver is concerned by the leaders' bars. 
 They are always, or they ought to be, rather 
 wider than the pipe boxes of the wheels, so 
 that the driver knows with the greatest cer- 
 tainty that wherever his bars will pass his 
 coach will pass also, always provided that he 
 is going straight. If he is on a curve he will 
 have to make some allowance for his hind 
 wheels, as their track will pass a little inside 
 that of the fore. 
 
 When passing a carnage do not move 
 across the road more than is necessary, but at
 
 FO UR-IN-HA ND. 1 5 5 
 
 the same time, once having overtaken it, do 
 not pull across its front until well clear, unless 
 compelled lo do so. It is considered bad 
 form to oblige another driver to slow down 
 unnecessarily. Begin to cross in plenty of 
 time, so as to make the incline as gradual 
 as possible, and thus avoid pulling at the 
 horses. It is far better and safer for the 
 beginner to give himself plenty of room, 
 and to slow down at once if he is not 
 certain of getting through. Nothing should 
 be left to chance. 
 
 Always take a pull at the horses to steady Take a pull 
 
 before going 
 
 them just before you arrive at the crest of a down ^ 
 hill, and begin to descend the other side 
 slowly. The pace can always be increased, 
 but it is most difficult to check it if you find 
 that you have too much way on. 
 
 In crossing over a bridge, like the ordinary 
 canal bridge, where the rise and fall of the
 
 1 5 6 
 
 HINTS ON DRIVING. 
 
 The break. 
 
 Coming off 
 racecourse. 
 
 road are very sharp, be careful the leaders are 
 out of draught, otherwise the jerk on the pole 
 might cause it to snap. 
 
 As regards the break, the driver should 
 put it on and take it off himself, as no one 
 else can tell the exact moment when it is 
 required or when it can be dispensed with ; 
 but with the beginner, who probably has 
 quite as much as he can do to manage the 
 reins, it is advisable to have assistance. It 
 should be put on, as a rule, before the coach 
 is actually on the incline, and, if another 
 hill has to be ascended immediately, it 
 should be taken off before actually arriving 
 at the bottom, in order to take advantage of 
 the way on the coach to assist in mounting 
 the opposite ascent. 
 
 When coming off a racecourse with a 
 heavy load never pull up if it can possibly 
 be avoided, but keep moving at any price,
 
 FO UR-IN-HA ND. \ 57 
 
 however slowly, the wheels will then never 
 have time to sink deeply into the ground. 
 When this happens with a team that is in- 
 clined to jib, it is long odds against getting 
 started again without a considerable loss of 
 time. 
 
 When coming on to slippery stones or On slippery 
 asphalt the horses will require holding rather ^1^ 
 more firmly than before, and it is advisable 
 to slow down a little when approaching a 
 corner, otherwise the wheelers are liable to 
 slip up in turning it. 
 
 If, while going down a hill, and especially Wheeler 
 
 slipping going 
 
 tvhen near the bottom, you find a wheeler ^ own ^iii. 
 slipping on to his hocks, do not try to pull 
 him up, but drop your hand and allow the 
 team to go a trifle faster. 
 
 It is a good plan for the novice to accustom pi ace right 
 himself to place his right hand on the reins hand on reins 
 
 passing 
 
 when passing anything on the road, or any starthn e 
 
 objects.
 
 I 5 S HINTS ON DRIVING. 
 
 object by the side of it, which might startle 
 the horses, so as to be ready to check them at 
 once should they show any tendency to shy 
 in either direction. 
 
 Naturally the beginner will find that it 
 takes some little time for his right hand to 
 get into the habit of instinctively seizing the 
 proper reins when a sudden emergency arises, 
 and accidents occur so very quickly that I 
 think these precautions may save him from 
 many a mishap. Experientia docet.
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 TANDEM DRIVING. 
 THE fundamental principles of tandem driving principles of 
 
 lem 
 ing. 
 
 tandem 
 
 are very naturally almost the same as those of driving. 
 
 driving a coach. But the chief difference 
 between the two styles arises from the fact 
 that both horses in a tandem turn much more 
 quickly and with far less pressure on the reins, 
 more especially the leader, than the pair 
 of horses, either wheel or lead, in a coach. 
 Furthermore, the tendency to wobble about 
 the road is much greater, necessitating a much 
 more frequent use of the right hand ; so that 
 it really requires greater quickness and lighter Great nicety 
 
 and quickness 
 
 hands to drive a tandem than a coach. On requ i re d. 
 the other hand, a tandem can turn on its own 
 M
 
 1 62 H /NTS ON DRIVING. 
 
 ground and everything is in front of the 
 driver, whereas a coach requires a large space 
 to turn in, and often a good allowance has to 
 be made for the hind wheels. 
 
 Advantages of One of the greatest recommendations of 
 a tandem is that it is well within the reach of 
 many who cannot afford a team. The small 
 extra expense and trouble which the leader 
 entails are fully compensated for by the extra 
 enjoyment which everyone feels when driving 
 behind a perfect and well-appointed tandem. 
 It is quite a mistake to suppose that a 
 
 Mea of tandem is necessarily a very dangerous turn- 
 
 tandem being 
 dangerous is. out to sit behind. It is nothing of the sort, if 
 
 erroneous. 
 
 driven by an experienced coachman and the 
 horses are fairly trained. 
 
 Of course horses that have never been 
 
 driven in single harness cannot be safe in 
 
 Almost any a tandem. But almost every horse that will 
 
 horse will go 
 
 in tandem. go in single harness, and some that will not,
 
 TANDEM DRIVING. 163 
 
 will make perfectly safe leaders with very 
 little teaching. It must be thoroughly under- 
 stood that there is an immense difference 
 between the terms a perfectly safe leader and 
 a perfect leader. A horse may be a perfectly 
 quiet animal, which will not kick, nor do any- 
 thing that will get one into difficulties or 
 danger, but yet be a terrible slug. This 
 would altogether prevent one driving him 
 rapidly through traffic ; therefore, though a 
 perfectly safe animal, he is not a perfect 
 leader. As mentioned above, it is necessary Frequent use 
 
 of right hand 
 
 to use the right hand very frequently when necessary, 
 driving a tandem, in order to immediately 
 check every tendency the leader may have to 
 
 cross the road or to turn round a corner. But Follow leader 
 
 if he turns 
 if by any chance the leader has got well on suddenly. 
 
 the turn before you are able to check him, do 
 not then try and do so, but apply the prin- 
 ciple of "Follow my leader" at once. Follow
 
 1 64 HINTS ON DRIVING. 
 
 after him, and when the horses are straight 
 turn round and come back again. Do just 
 the same if you are standing still, and the 
 leader suddenly comes right round. Whilst 
 turning the wheeler, back him if possible, 
 so as to give the leader plenty of room. 
 By this means you will never get the leader 
 tied in an inextricable knot. 
 
 If it is not possible to follow the leader 
 
 round, hit him on the side of the head with 
 
 the whip, which will probably induce him to 
 
 get back into his place. 
 
 Position of left The left hand should be held in the same 
 
 hand and 
 
 method of position as when driving four horses, and the 
 
 holding reins. 
 
 reins held in precisely the same way, but as 
 
 these matters have been thoroughly discussed 
 in a previous chapter it is unnecessary to go 
 into them again here. 
 Position of The right hand ought tc be placed on 
 
 right hand 
 
 when on reins, the reins in feont of the kit, with the
 
 TANDEM DRIVING. 
 
 165 
 
 little and third fingers together over the two 
 off-side reins, the middle finger over the 
 near-wheel, and the first finger over the 
 near-lead (fig. 35) ; all the reins will then 
 
 FIG. 35. TANDEM POSITION OF RIGHT HAND ON 
 REINS. 
 
 be under the immediate control of the right 
 hand. 
 
 The two off-side reins should in all cases, 
 except for a sharp back turn to the right, 
 be treated as one rein, and always kept under
 
 1 66 HINTS ON DRIVING. 
 
 the little and third fingers of the right hand. 
 Three-rein This, which may be termed the three-rein prin- 
 
 principle. 
 
 ciple, will be found to simplify matters very 
 
 considerably, owing to there being practically 
 
 only three reins to think about instead of four. 
 
 Difficult to get The beginner will experience considerable 
 
 quickly into difficulty at first in passing his right hand 
 the reins. -11 11 11 1 
 
 quickly on and through the reins in the 
 proper manner, the reason being that they 
 are all close together, much more so than 
 with four horses, so that he is obliged 
 to stretch the right hand much further 
 forward in order to get it in between them. 
 For this reason, carry your hand well out to 
 the front, where the reins open out a little, and 
 when once you have hold of them correctly 
 slide it back towards the body. It looks very 
 awkward to drive with the right hand held 
 out a long way from the left, and it is 
 also quite unnecessary-.
 
 TA ND EM DRI VING. \ 67 
 
 For those who have not much expe- Always keep 
 
 . right hand on 
 
 nence, it is far better to keep the right hand re j ns at n^t. 
 
 always on the reins, and particularly so at 
 
 night, when the hand should never be taken 
 
 away unless it is required for the purpose 
 
 of using the whip. Rarely pull one rein 
 
 singly, as described for pointing the leaders 
 
 in a coach, except when looping a lead 
 
 rein in order to turn a sharp corner, or to 
 
 execute a quick bend to get through traffic. 
 
 If you pull a rein singly, especially a lead 
 
 rein, you are very likely to overdo it or 
 
 jerk it. 
 
 Never jerk a rein at all except in an emer- Never pull 
 
 rein as if 
 gency, but apply the pressure steadily and ringing a belL 
 
 gradually. The only excuse for " ringing the 
 bell " with a rein is when driving a slug which 
 is not going quite up to his bit, when you 
 want to turn a corner. 
 
 It is generally advisable, whenever pos-
 
 1 68 HINTS ON DRIVING. 
 
 sible, to advance a few paces before turn- 
 ing round in a road from the halt. The 
 best methods of avoiding any jerking when 
 going round corners with free-going horses 
 are as follows : 
 
 Turning to the To turn to the left, slide the right hand 
 slightly to the front and catch hold of the near- 
 lead rein with the forefinger, and then bring 
 the right hand back towards the left, allowing 
 the other fingers to slide over, but not to 
 move away from their proper reins. The 
 near-lead rein will then be looped under 
 the first finger (fig. 36). When the leader is 
 turning nicely round the corner, tighten the 
 little and third fingers on the off-side reins, 
 and apply as much pressure as is necessary by 
 turning the wrist away from the body ; thus 
 bringing the little finger closer to it. This will 
 have the effect of checking any tendency of 
 the leader to turn too fast, while also prevent-
 
 TANDEM DRIVING. 
 
 169 
 
 ing the wheeler from following round too 
 quickly after him, and cutting the corner. 
 
 If the wheeler is still turning too fast, drop 
 the left hand towards the right, which will 
 
 FIG. 36. TANDEM TURNING TO THE LEFT. 
 
 slack the near- wheel rein and so keep him off 
 to the right, or away from the corner. Should 
 the leader not turn quickly enough, seize the 
 loop which is held by the forefinger of the 
 right hand with the left thumb, retaining it 
 there in the same manner as previously
 
 170 HINTS ON DRIVING. 
 
 described for " pointing " a rein. Another loop 
 can then be taken up as before, which will 
 bring the leader round as fast as is desired. 
 Best method To turn to the right, slide the right hand to 
 
 of turning to 
 
 riyht. the front, and with the middle finger seize the 
 
 near-wheel rein ; draw the hand back about an 
 inch or two, still retaining a grip of the near- 
 wheel, but sliding the fingers over the other 
 reins. This is done in order to prevent the 
 wheeler coming round too quickly. Then 
 tighten the little and third fingers on the off- 
 side reins, and press strongly on them (fig. 37). 
 This will have the effect of bringing the leader 
 round to the right. If the leader is not 
 coming round sufficiently fast, turn the back 
 of the left hand down gradually, this will 
 enable you to turn him with the greatest 
 nicety. 
 
 The above methods are especially recom- 
 mended, as they entirely do away with the
 
 TANDEM DRIVING. 171 
 
 necessity of taking the right hand out of the 
 reins for looping purposes, the great danger of 
 which is that it is almost impossible to get the 
 right hand back between them quickly enough 
 
 FIG. 37. TANDEM TURNING TO THE RIGHT. 
 
 to prevent the wheeler cutting the corner, if 
 he is at all inclined to do so, or to check the 
 leader if he is coming round too rapidly. The 
 horses turn so quickly, that the wheeler can 
 see the leader coming round almost before the 
 lead rein can be seized with the left thumb,
 
 1 72 HINTS ON DRIVING. 
 
 and tandem reins being very close together, it 
 is difficult for the right hand to catch the 
 wheeler's rein in time to check him. The fact 
 is that several things have to be done simul- 
 taneously, or nearly so, to obtain perfection, 
 and the manipulation of the reins is then, as I 
 have often heard it expressed, somewhat like 
 playing the harp. Of course with very slug- 
 gish horses the reins can be looped in the 
 same manner as when driving four horses, 
 but as a rule less rein must be taken up, 
 or the leader will come round and look you in 
 the face. Therefore you must always be 
 ready to pull the opposite rein, and so check 
 the horse from going too far round. 
 Proper time to Practice alone will enable one to hit off 
 
 turn leader 
 
 at a corner. exactly the proper moment to turn the leader 
 when a sharp corner has to be negotiated. 
 Perhaps the best general guide is to give the 
 leader the office when his head is abreast of
 
 TANDEM DRIVING. 173 
 
 -^ 
 
 the centre of the road to be turned down. 
 More than this it is useless to say, as every- 
 thing depends on the width of the road and 
 the angle of the turn. It is, however, always 
 a safe thing to take as much room as possible, 
 and it is therefore a good plan before arriving 
 at the corner to pass off to the opposite side 
 of the road, provided the traffic will allow this 
 to be done. 
 
 In order to turn corners nicely with the 
 wheeler going over the same ground as the 
 leader, and not shuffling round anyhow, or to Quickness of 
 
 ... handling reins 
 
 go in and out rapidly through traffic like nece ssary in 
 
 that of London, requires the utmost nicety 
 
 and quickness of handling, and also that the 
 
 horses be well trained to keep constantly up 
 
 to their bits, and to feel even the lightest Horses should 
 
 answer to 
 pressure and answer to it at once. When pressure of 
 
 driver's hands 
 
 you drop your hand to them, they should at at once 
 once increase their pace until you come back
 
 174 HINTS ON DRIVING. 
 
 to the original pressure, but the moment 
 more than this is put on they should at once 
 check their pace. They should also willingly 
 go into an omnibus if driven there, and never 
 shy off. Such is a perfect tandem, but one 
 most difficult to find. 
 Tendency to A beginner at tandem driving, and even 
 
 slow down. 
 
 some who have had a certain amount of 
 practice in driving four horses, will usually 
 find the tandem has a great tendency to slow 
 down, and that a considerable amount of 
 whip is required to keep the horses up to the 
 proper pace. This tendency will be found to 
 disappear if a practised hand takes the reins, 
 without the aid of the whip. A want of 
 lightness of hand is usually the cause, and a 
 want of give and take to the horses' mouths. 
 Probably the wrist is kept too stiff, and the 
 pressure on the horses' mouths is as a result 
 uneven, too much being applied at one
 
 TANDEM DRIVING. 175 
 
 moment and not enough the next. To keep 
 an even feeling on the horses' mouths the 
 hand must be allowed to move backwards 
 and forwards a little, and there should be 
 plenty of play from the wrist. 
 
 When you find that the leader is going off Effect of 
 
 altering centre 
 
 to the left, and the wheeler to the right, it is re i ns . 
 usually right to push the two centre reins 
 back a little through the left hand from the 
 front with the right hand, using the whole 
 hand to do it with. 
 
 If, on the contrary, the leader is bearing off 
 to the right, and the wheeler to the left, you 
 must then pull the two centre reins out a 
 little until they, i.e., the horses, are straight. 
 
 You must remember that, although you are Rein-; must be 
 
 he'd firmly. 
 
 using the right hand a great deal, the reins 
 must none the less all the time be held very 
 firmly in the left, and not allowed to slip in 
 the least ; so that at any moment you should
 
 HINTS ON DRIVING. 
 
 be able to take the right hand off the reins 
 and the horses should still be going exactly 
 one behind the other, with all the reins tight, 
 the left wrist turned in towards the body with 
 the back of the hand to the front and almost 
 perpendicular. 
 
 This position of the left hand is of great 
 
 importance, as by turning the back down or 
 
 up respectively a great deal can be done in 
 
 the way of directing the leader to the right 
 
 or left without any assistance from the right 
 
 Thumb and hand. The thumb should be nearly parallel 
 
 always ready to the front, and like the first finger should be 
 
 to take u' ; ) 
 loop. 
 
 ready at any time to take up and hold a loop 
 of either lead rein ; therefore these fingers 
 should never be busy gripping the reins. 
 Third and The whole four reins should be held firmly 
 
 fourth fingers 
 
 must grip reins in position by the grip of the third and little 
 finger, slightly assisted by the middle finger. 
 To get horses, which have never been in
 
 TANDEM DRIVING. 177 
 
 tandem before, exactly to follow one behind 
 the other, requires considerable skill and 
 patience, as it will be found that their 
 common tendency is to get one alongside 
 the other, the wheeler as a rule being anxious 
 to run up alongside the leader. This ten- Tendency to 
 dency to form a pair must be checked at forma P air - 
 once, but without any jerking or hurried 
 pulling at the reins. 
 
 The leader should be worried as little as DO not worry 
 
 leader* 
 
 possible ; therefore, do not pull him across 
 the road more than you can avoid, particu- 
 larly at first, but try to make the wheeler 
 follow him, and you will find that if they are 
 fairly well-disposed horses they will soon fall 
 in with the idea of following one another. 
 
 Do not use the whip perpetually ; try and Constant use 
 
 . of whip shows 
 
 work the horses chiefly with your hands, and badcoachman. 
 to a certain extent by your voice. For 
 instance, when starting them give them the 
 
 N
 
 I 7 S HINTS ON DRIVING. 
 
 office by slightly feeling their mouths with 
 the reins and immediately shouting " Go on," 
 or something to that effect, momentarily 
 dropping your hand to them in order to 
 avoid any jibbing while getting under way. 
 The horses will very quickly understand this, 
 and the use of the whip will be unnecessary. 
 Wheeler Remember, however, that the wheeler should 
 
 should start 
 
 art. start the cart ; therefore be ready to touch 
 
 him with the whip, if he hangs back ; if, 
 however, he is inclined to jib, it may be 
 better to allow the leader to assist him. 
 
 With raw and nervous horses a good start is 
 everything. Watch the leader carefully, and 
 when you see him starting get the wheeler 
 off at once by using the whip if he is not 
 moving off at the same time. When pulling 
 up, I think it is always a good plan to say 
 " Whoa." They very soon learn to obey the 
 voice, and it often comes in handy.
 
 TANDEM DRIVING. 179 
 
 If a horse shies, speak to him at once and Encourage 
 
 horse with 
 
 encourage him, but on no account hit him or voice, 
 you will confirm him in the habit. He does 
 it nearly always from nervousness, or from 
 defective vision, and not from devilry. A Never hit a 
 
 shyer. 
 
 shyer will often go perfectly in the wheel of a 
 tandem and never shy at all, but is never safe 
 in the lead. I am also a believer in rating a 
 horse soundly when he does wrong, and 
 especially when you are hitting him, as the 
 next time you rate him he will think he is 
 going to feel the whip, and be very careful 
 at once. 
 
 In a dog-cart, when you have hit your Returninglash 
 
 after hitting 
 leader, bring the lash back and catch it i ea( i e r. 
 
 quickly with a turn round the stick by a 
 slight jerk, or bring it straight into the fingers 
 of your right hand by the same motion. 
 You can then at once bring it well into the 
 cart, and get your hand back on the reins.
 
 iSo HINTS ON DRIVING. 
 
 This last is a very important matter, as when 
 the leader is hit he generally takes to pulling 
 for a few yards, and your whip hand is much 
 needed on the reins to steady him. 
 
 On the other hand, it is very unsafe to 
 bring your right hand on to the reins unless 
 the lash has been brought well into the cart, 
 as it may easily be caught up round the axle 
 or get under the wheel ; and, as a rule, if the 
 wheel goes over it, it will break off at that 
 spot next time you use it. 
 
 It is often very convenient to have the 
 whip ready to hit the leader at a particular 
 place or corner which he is likely to want 
 to go round. To do this unwind the lash, 
 and keep the point of the stick out to the 
 right front. The lash can then fly loose and 
 do no harm, unless the wind is blowing across 
 from right to left. 
 Check pace Always check the pace before reaching 
 
 before gom^ 
 down hill.
 
 TANDEM DRIVING. 181 
 
 the crest of a hill which you are about to 
 descend, as when once on the downward 
 slope this may not be possible, whereas to 
 increase the pace is easy enough. When 
 going down a hill it will be necessary to 
 shorten up all four reins, either by pulling 
 them through from behind with the thumb 
 and forefinger (fig. 4), or by placing the right 
 hand on the reins as before explained and 
 sliding the left up to it (fig. 35). Sometimes 
 it will be found necessary when going down a 
 very steep hill to pull back the leader a little, 
 but as a rule the mere fact of the wheeler Leader out of 
 
 draught down 
 
 coming out of draught to hold back the cart hilL 
 will necessitate the shortening of all the reins, 
 which will bring the leader sufficiently out of 
 his collar to prevent him pulling on the 
 traces. 
 
 The leader's reins can be shortened either Shortening 
 
 lead reins, 
 by taking out both the lead reins with the
 
 1 82 HINTS ON DRIVING. 
 
 right hand (fig. 32), the near lead under the 
 first or second finger, the off lead under the 
 little finger, and then replacing them in the left 
 hand, or else by pushing them through from 
 the front with the right hand in front of the 
 left, the latter being usually far the best 
 plan. 
 Leader doing While on this subject, it may be well to 
 
 too much 
 
 work. remark that the novice is usually inclined to 
 
 allow the leader to do a great deal too much 
 work. The traces should never be quite taut 
 except when going up a hill, and then the 
 leader may be allowed to do his best. The 
 result of allowing the leader to do all the 
 work on the flat is that the wheeler soon 
 learns to hang back, and thus makes his com- 
 panion pull him along as well as the cart, and 
 when this happens it is almost impossible to 
 
 Turning while negotiate a sharp turn safely. From this it is 
 
 going up hill. 
 
 evident that, when going up a hill with the
 
 TANDEM DRIVING. 183 
 
 leader well in draught, he must be taken out 
 of the collar before a turn is attempted, other- 
 wise the wheeler will be forced to cut the 
 corner. 
 
 From this chapter it will be seen, that 
 although the general principles of driving a 
 tandem are the same as those of driving four 
 horses, yet there are many minor points of 
 difference, which the man, who wishes to 
 drive both with equal skill, must carefully 
 study and practise. 
 
 One very notable difference, which may be 
 pointed out again, is the greater lightness and 
 quickness of handling necessary to guide a 
 tandem with ease and safety through difficult 
 places. 
 
 Tandem is therefore admirably adapted for 
 ladies who are fond of driving, as it affords all 
 the interest of a team, without placing any 
 undue strain on their strength or powers of
 
 1 84 HINTS ON DRIVING. 
 
 endurance, while it enables them to exercise 
 those qualities of quickness and lightness 
 of hands, in which as a rule they surpass 
 men. 
 
 The whole art of driving is composed of 
 innumerable small, though most important 
 details, but probably no other class of driving 
 requires so much attention to be paid to these 
 minutiae as Tandem.
 
 CHAPTER XI. 
 
 TANDEM HARNESS. 
 
 THE harness should be as simple and as Best kind of 
 
 harness 
 light as possible, consistent with strength, simple and 
 
 The colour is a matter of taste and con- lg l ' 
 venience, but perhaps for country work 
 brown with brass mounts is the most suitable, 
 whereas for driving in the Park black harness 
 is almost de rigueur. Certainly for soldiers 
 at home, and more especially abroad, brown 
 is far the most useful, because it is a part of 
 every mounted soldier's training to clean this 
 kind of leather. 
 
 The wheeler's harness is an ordinary single Wheel 
 
 harness. 
 
 set with one or two trifling additions, none of 
 which are absolutely necessary. These are
 
 1 88 HINTS O^ 7 DRIVING. 
 
 two brass rings or loops fixed under the trace 
 buckles, into which are fastened the spring 
 hooks of the leader's traces, and terrets on 
 the pad divided by a roller to separate the 
 reins. For the former short pieces of leather 
 can be substituted, which have holes punched 
 in one end, through which the tongues of the 
 trace buckles pass, while at the other end are 
 sewn metal rings to take the hooks of the 
 
 Lead harness, leader's traces. The leader should have a 
 pad of rather lighter make than the wheeler, 
 with two fixed leather loops, one at each side, 
 for the traces to run through. There must 
 also be a bearing-strap passing over the 
 horse's loins, and this should be just long 
 enough to keep the traces level. 
 
 Lead traces. The traces are usually made long enough 
 to be fixed to the loops on the wheeler's 
 traces, as already described. This is the 
 simplest and most economical plan, but
 
 TANDEM HARNESS. 189 
 
 another method consists in having two 
 swingle-bars, by means of which the leader's 
 traces can be reduced to the same length as 
 those of the wheeler. 
 
 The first of these bars, which is about two Swingle-bars, 
 feet six inches in length, has a large hook 
 about five inches long fixed in its front, and a 
 light chain about one foot long attached at 
 the back. The chain is hooked to a ring in 
 the bottom of the wheeler's hames, and is 
 intended to prevent the bar from falling 
 down. At each end of the bar are two short 
 traces about two feet long, which hook into 
 the wheeler's trace in the same way as pre- 
 viously described for the long ones. 
 
 The second bar is a light swingle-tree Advantages of 
 
 swingle-bars 
 
 about two feet in length, having an eyelet over long 
 to attach it to the hook of the other bar. 
 
 Advocates for this system claim that it is 
 less dangerous than the other, because neither
 
 190 
 
 HINTS ON DRIVING. 
 
 Traces hooked 
 to shafts 
 dangerous. 
 
 Breast 
 harness. 
 
 horse can get a leg over the trace, nor can a 
 trace wrap round the leader's quarter if he 
 swings suddenly round to study the view in 
 rear. The second method however entails 
 more expense and trouble than the first, which 
 with careful driving need rarely be the cause 
 of accidents. 
 
 The leader's traces are sometimes hooked 
 to the points of the shafts, but as this is a 
 most dangerous system it should never be 
 employed. 
 
 I have seen tandem traces extemporized 
 out of ordinary single-harness traces and pole 
 chains, the latter bridging the gap between 
 the wheeler's traces and the leader's. This 
 arrangement looked very smart, but must 
 make the lead traces too heavy. 
 
 Although not so smart as a collar, breast 
 harness can be used in tandem equally as well 
 as in single harness, and as it can be adjusted
 
 TANDEM HARNESS, 191 
 
 to fit any horse its use avoids the necessity of 
 spending money on numerous collars. It also 
 comes in very useful when a horse's shoulders 
 have been wrung by a collar (see Chap. I.). 
 
 The length of the leader's traces should Length of lead 
 
 traces. 
 
 depend on the length of the horses and also 
 on their action. They should be as short as 
 possible, but not so short as to make the 
 wheeler appear to be stepping on the leader. 
 Three feet from nose to croup seems to be 
 about the right distance when the leader is in 
 draught. 
 
 While on the subject of the leader's traces Hooking up 
 
 lead traces, 
 it may be well to point out that the best way 
 
 to hook them up, when putting to or taking 
 out the leader, is to pass the end of the trace 
 from outside under and over itself just in 
 front of the bearing-strap, and then fasten the 
 hook to the ring of the hames. 
 
 As regards the fastening up of the lead How to fasten 
 
 up lead reins.
 
 I 9 2 HINTS ON DRIVING. 
 
 reins, it is usual to take a loop in the end of 
 the rein and pass it through the terrets of 
 both pad and hames, so adjusting it that no 
 spare end hangs down by itself. The loop 
 will be about the right length if the end 
 of the rein is brought up to the terret on 
 the pad, the end of the loop thus made being 
 then put through the terrets as described 
 above. 
 
 Driving bits. The best bits for all-round work are either the 
 Wheeler's bit. Liverpool or the elbow-bits, but the wheeler's 
 should be made with a light bar across the 
 bottom of the cheek pieces. This prevents 
 the wheeler from catching the lead rein under 
 the end of the cheek piece, which constantly 
 happens if he is inclined to shake his head 
 about, and has the effect of pulling the leader 
 
 Bit catching in sharply to one side. It is, moreover, very- 
 rein. 
 
 difficult to get the rein free when caught in 
 this way without getting down. I think, as a
 
 TANDEM HARNESS. 
 
 193 
 
 rule, it is a good plan to pass the lead reins Lead reins 
 
 through 
 
 through the loops of the bearing-rein of the bearing-rein 
 wheeler, instead of through D's fixed on his 0ps * 
 head-collar or throat-lash. The loops should 
 hang down about four inches, and be quite 
 loose, so that the Wheeler can toss his head 
 to a considerable extent without violently 
 jerking the leader in the mouth. It is un- 
 necessary to pass the reins through the terrets 
 on the hames, as bringing them straight back 
 to those on the pad gives a better lead. 
 
 Of course, if the wheeler habitually shakes 
 his head about very much, either up or down, 
 or both, then a martingale and a bearing-rein 
 must be put on, which will effectually stop 
 his little game. 
 
 Never drive with the lead reins buckled, as, Lead reins 
 
 never to be 
 
 if the leader breaks either the traces, or the buckled, 
 bar (if he has one), by kicking or falling, the 
 reins will run through the terrets, and the horse 
 o
 
 194 HINTS ON DRIVING. 
 
 can then get clear away, and a worse accident 
 Lender's tail be avoided. Should the leader get his tail over 
 
 over rein. 
 
 a rein, a good way of getting it clear is to 
 pull the wheeler well across to the side on 
 which the rein is fast, and the leader rather 
 over to the opposite side, slacking at the 
 same time the fixed rein as much as possible. 
 By this manoeuvre the rein will often come 
 loose. If it does not, try hitting the leader on 
 the quarter with the whip, when he will pro- 
 bably swish his tail and allow the rein to drop. 
 Tandem whip. The whip is generally a rather lighter and 
 shorter one than that used for four horses, 
 though the same can perfectly well be used. 
 The usual lengths of stick and lash are about 
 five and ten feet respectively. As to the correct 
 method of holding and handling it the reader 
 must kindly refer to a former chapter, where 
 it is fully discussed. The principles are 
 obviously exactly the same.
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 
 BREAKING TO HARNESS. 
 
 IN conclusion, a few hints as to breaking a Accustom 
 
 horse to 
 
 horse to harness may be useful to those who harness in 
 
 , . stable. 
 
 have had no experience in giving a young 
 horse his first lessons. In the first place, 
 it is a good plan to put the harness on in 
 the stable, and let the horse stand with it 
 on for a time, with his head on the pillar 
 reins. 
 
 In India I found that with Australian 
 horses, even those trained to military draught, 
 it was absolutely necessary to accustom them 
 to blinkers before attempting to drive them. 
 They should be made to stand in their stables, 
 fed and taken out to water, and exercised
 
 I 9 8 
 
 HINTS ON DRIVING. 
 
 Longeing 
 with long 
 reins. 
 
 Use snaffle 
 and martin- 
 gale. 
 
 with blinkers on, previously to their being 
 driven for the first time, otherwise they will 
 almost invariably jib. 
 
 After the pupil is accustomed to his 
 harness, he should be taken out and longed 
 with two long reins (fig. 39), never with one 
 only. These can be conveniently made of 
 webbing, like a common single longeing rein, 
 but the lead reins of a tandem will also answer 
 the purpose. The horse should have a body 
 roller on with two rings or loops about half 
 way down each side, though an ordinary 
 single-harness driving pad with the tugs on, 
 or a saddle with the stirrup irons fixed up for 
 loops, can be substituted. In all cases a 
 crupper should be used. 
 
 It is always advisable to have a fairly loose 
 standing martingale on the bit, which should 
 be a large smooth snaffle, the martingale 
 being so adjusted that it will keep the bit on
 
 BREAKING TO HARNESS, 199 
 
 the bars of the mouth, and will not allow the 
 horse to get his head up sufficiently high to 
 cause the bit to press only on the corners of 
 his lips. 
 
 It is also advisable to put on bearing- Bearing- 
 straps like those of a tandem leader, in order 
 to keep up the reins. The long reins should 
 be passed through the loops of the bearing- 
 straps, then through the rings on the roller, 
 the tugs on the pad, or the stirrup irons of 
 the saddle, as the case may be, and then 
 buckled on to the bit. 
 
 The horse can now be driven about and be Use whip 
 kept up to his bit with the whip, which the i onge i n g 
 operator should always have in his hand. 
 
 Keep him circling with the outer rein 
 round his quarters above his hocks. This 
 will teach him to go collectedly, and enable 
 the driver to keep his quarters well in 
 towards the centre, preventing him from
 
 HL\TS ON DRIVING. 
 
 passing off sideways like a crab. It is 
 impossible to attain this object with a single 
 rein, which also would have the effect of 
 teaching him to go on his shoulders. 
 
 Another point about having the rein 
 against the horse's quarters is that it teaches 
 him not to kick at the trace or breeching. 
 
 If he should very much resent having the 
 
 outer rein on his hocks, begin by driving him 
 
 with this rein over his back. He should not 
 
 Do not longe be kept circling too long on one rein, but be 
 
 too long on 
 
 one rein. often changed from one side to the other. If, 
 however, one side of his mouth is harder than 
 the other, he should be made to turn to that 
 side for a longer period, until he turns equally 
 well both ways. 
 
 When the horse has learnt to answer the 
 rein at once, and turn equally well to both 
 sides, he should be taught to rein back. 
 
 When this has been successfully accom-
 
 BREAKING TO II ARK ESS. 
 
 plished, bring him out with his harness on 
 and long traces like lead tandem traces. 
 
 Tell off two men to hang on to these while Have two men 
 
 pulling against 
 
 he is being driven about. By this means the traces. 
 
 amount of pressure can be regulated, and as 
 
 only a small amount need be applied to 
 
 begin with, the horse will become gradually 
 
 accustomed to pulling with his shoulders. 
 
 It is impossible to begin too gradually ; 
 
 although some horses can be taken out of 
 
 the stable and put into a break or a coach at 
 
 once and will go fairly well, others will be 
 
 rendered jibbers for ever by this too hurried jibbing taught 
 
 by undue 
 process. hurry. 
 
 In India a young horse is generally given llorse-break- 
 
 ing in India. 
 
 his first lessons harnessed to a block of wood. 
 The block of wood is triangular in shape, and 
 in front of it is fixed a long splinter-bar. 
 The horse's traces are hitched to this, and the 
 breaker, standing on the block of wood, drives
 
 202 HINTS ON DRIVING. 
 
 his pupil about until he is quiet enough to be 
 put in a cart. A short pole, with a cross-bar 
 at the top like a parrot's perch, is fixed to the 
 front of the block, to enable the driver to 
 steady himself and prevent his being jolted 
 off. 
 
 This is not at all a bad way of breaking a 
 horse, as he cannot do much harm by kick- 
 ing or plunging, and the block being very 
 light does not teach him to jib. 
 
 The horse having been taught to pull is 
 
 now quite fit to be driven in a break or cart. 
 
 If possible, place him at first in a double 
 
 Steady horse break, with a steady old horse alongside of 
 
 alongside 
 
 youngster. him, which will do all the starting by steady 
 pulling and not by jumping into the collar. 
 Many old break horses are quite up to watch- 
 ing the young one, and start accordingly. 
 
 Never forget to have a bearing-rein on, also 
 kneecaps and bandages.
 
 BREAKING TO HARNESS. 203 
 
 Drive the youngster on both sides of the Accustom to 
 
 both sides of 
 
 pole for a time, when he should be quite fit poi e . 
 to put into a single-harness break or cart. 
 
 Always have a rope halter on a young 
 horse under the bridle the first few times that 
 he is put to. If he is likely to be very violent, 
 two halters may be put on, and you can then 
 have a man leading him on each side. 
 
 It is far better to drive him where there is Take young 
 
 horse among 
 
 some traffic than along a deserted country traffic, 
 road, for he will go much better if he sees 
 other things moving about, as they will dis- 
 tract his attention, and keep him from playing 
 tricks on the driver. 
 
 It is advisable to have him well exercised Exercise 
 
 before giving 
 
 before attempting to give him any of the i es soru 
 above lessons. 
 
 Supposing that there is no double break Breaking in 
 
 single cart. 
 
 available, use a strong light cart with extra 
 strong shafts instead ; but a heavy cart with
 
 204 HINTS ON DRIVING. 
 
 no springs is bad, as it will make a rattling 
 noise and possibly frighten the novice, while 
 its weight may teach him to jib. 
 
 In this case put a good strong kicking- 
 strap on, but be careful not to buckle it 
 clown too tight, or it will catch his quarters 
 if he should canter, and perhaps induce him 
 to kick. 
 
 The bearing-rein must be loose, but tight 
 enough to prevent him from getting his head 
 close in to his chest. A loose martingale may 
 also be added if the horse has a tendency 
 to put his head up ; fasten this to the nose- 
 band. 
 
 Two men to Have a couple of men to hold him, and 
 assist in 
 
 putiing 10. try and put him in without the shafts touch- 
 ing him anywhere. Hold the shafts well up, 
 and get the horse as nearly under them as 
 possible, and quite straight in front of the 
 cart ; then lower them quietly and run the
 
 BREAKING TO HARNESS. 
 
 cart up, passing the points of the shafts 
 through the tugs. 
 
 Next hook the traces and buckle the kick- Hook trace? 
 
 before 
 ing-strap on as quickly as possible. One buckling 
 
 kicking-strap. 
 man should be kept standing in front of the 
 
 horse and holding his head the whole time, 
 and he should never move away until the 
 driver is ready to start. It is a good plan 
 at this stage to lead the horse about by the 
 rope halter, with a man on each side ready 
 to assist, while the driver walks with the 
 reins in his hand on the off side of the cart 
 He can thus guide him without getting up, 
 while the weight which the horse has to pull 
 to begin with is materially reduced. 
 
 If he goes along all right, mount into the When quiat 
 
 get up into 
 cart and drive him about, keeping a man cart . 
 
 running alongside for a little, when, if he 
 continues to go well, the man can jump up 
 behind. If he should be inclined to jib, have
 
 206 HINTS ON DRIVING. 
 
 him led on at once, but do not hit him. 
 
 Never let the man lead him by the rein, but 
 
 invariably by the nose-band or halter. When 
 
 Turning he has gone well for some distance on the 
 
 lesson. 
 
 straight, teach him to turn. Begin by turning 
 
 him if possible on a very large circle. If this 
 cannot be done, have him led round very 
 slowly, the man pushing the outer shaft at 
 the same time to assist him, as in turning 
 the inner one is bound to catch him on the 
 shoulder, when he will most probably pas- 
 sage off sideways or rein back and get 
 frightened. 
 How to start With a horse that continues to jib from 
 
 a jibber. 
 
 sheer cussedness, I have found that strapping 
 up one leg, and making him stand still until 
 he is tired out, will often induce him to start 
 off perfectly quietly as soon as the leg has 
 been released. 
 
 A rope crupper may also be tried with
 
 BREAKING TO HARNESS. 207 
 
 good effect. This is formed by taking an 
 inch rope about sixteen feet long and doubling 
 it. The loop is tied by a thumb-over-hand 
 knot, forming a crupper about two feet long. 
 Pass the loop under the tail and bring the 
 ends forward, one on each side ; then put a 
 man to pull on each of these ends, and the 
 horse will most probably move forward at once. 
 
 This system is a very useful one for getting 
 refractory horses into a stable or loose box. 
 In Ireland it is a common practice to rub 
 some gravel in a jibber's mouth, and this 
 appears to be effective at times. 
 
 When a horse is inclined to kick on first 
 being put in harness, he can often be pre- 
 vented, if not cured, by holding, or even tying 
 up a leg, as in the case of a jibber. 
 
 If the horse is likely to be a hard puller, it How to guard 
 is a good plan to have a Liverpool bit in his 
 mouth, with two pairs of reins, one buckled
 
 = oS II /NTS ON DR/VING. 
 
 to the cheek and the other to the bar, the 
 latter only being used to check him if he is 
 pulling too hard. 
 Lessons must The lessons must be continued without in- 
 
 be continuous. 
 
 termission daily for some considerable time, 
 or else it will be found that the pupil very 
 soon forgets what he has been taught. - 
 How to fix up At the conclusion of the lesson, after 
 
 reins when 
 
 taking out of getting out of the cart, place the reins over 
 the off terret to prevent them from falling 
 on to the ground when the horse is being 
 led into the stable. Take care that the spare 
 parts, which hang down on each side of the 
 terret, are well in front of the stop on the 
 shaft ; otherwise, if the horse should by any 
 chance jump to the front while the cart is 
 
 Rein catching being run back, the rein may get caught 
 
 apt to cause 
 
 an accident. round the stop and give a sharp jerk to the 
 horse's mouth, which will probably frighten 
 him.
 
 BREAKING TO HARNESS. 
 
 Horses that have once been frightened in 
 this way seldom forget it, and are apt to 
 plunge forward directly they think they are 
 clear of the traces, which is a constant source 
 of accidents, as the horse may only get half 
 out of the shafts, and then he will probably 
 bolt. For this reason the kicking-strap must 
 always be unbuckled before the traces are 
 unhooked. 
 
 The best way of breaking a horse of this How to 
 
 prevent horse 
 
 very bad habit is to drive him straight up to plunging 
 
 forward out 
 a wall, or into a corner where he cannot jump O f s h a fts. 
 
 forward ; then unhook the traces and run the 
 cart back. 
 
 A horse that is to be driven in the lead of Accustom 
 
 horse to bars 
 
 a team can be to some degree accustomed in stable, 
 to the bars, by having one tied on so as to 
 hang down and touch him just above his 
 hocks when standing in the stable. 
 
 In conclusion, I would remind the reader
 
 HINTS ON DRIVING. 
 
 that " Prevention is better than cure," and in 
 breaking a horse to harness every precaution 
 should be taken from the very beginning of 
 his education, for when a young horse has 
 once been hurt or frightened, it is a very 
 difficult thing to persuade him that the same 
 thing may not occur again, and many a 
 naturally quiet and generous horse is ruined 
 for harness work, or rendered nervous for life, 
 simply owing to carelessness or to want of 
 ordinary precautions during his first two or 
 three lessons. 
 
 The beginner who has mastered the fore- 
 going pages will, I trust, find that he is 
 thoroughly grounded in the theory and 
 principles of driving, and his interest will, I 
 hope, be roused to such an extent as to 
 induce him so to turn theory into practice, 
 that with time and perseverance he will de- 
 velop into a neat and skilful whip.
 
 HINTS ON DRIVING. 
 PRESS OPINIONS ON THE FIRST EDITION. 
 
 From The Times. 
 
 " Another book which will appeal to all who are interested 
 in horses is the capital little volume called ' Hints on Driving,' 
 by Capt. Morley Knight, R.A. Captain Knight has nothing 
 to do with history or anecdote ; his work is entirely practical. 
 Doubtless there are other books on the subject, but none 
 within our knowledge is more clear or complete in the in- 
 structions given for driving in single or double harness, and, 
 above all, for the more difficult mysteries of four-in-hand or 
 tandem driving. The utility of the volume is much increased 
 by the accurate vignette illustrations of hands holding reins, 
 etc., made by G. H. A. White, Royal Artillery." 
 
 "Captain Knight is the author of a thoroughly practical 
 book entitled ' Hints on Driving,' which he dedicates to 
 Major-General Albert Williams." Morning Post. 
 
 " There are perhaps few greater masters of the detail of the 
 art than the author. " The Sportsman. 
 
 "One conspicuous and excellent feature is that it takes 
 nothing for granted, etc. Altogether this little volume is a 
 capital manual of its kind." Glasgow Herald. 
 
 "It is simple, practical, and instructive. So far as the 
 delicate art of handling the ribbons can be taught by a 
 book, this book succeeds to the best effect in teaching it." 
 Scotsman, 
 
 " Any who are deficient or novices in the art of driving 
 and it is an art will do well to inwardly digest the contents 
 of a capital volume by Captain Knight, R. A., whose practical 
 advice, down to the veriest minutiae, will work wonders in a 
 short space." Sporting Life. 
 
 " Captain Knight has done as much as anyone could do to 
 place before his readers the more or less accepted canons of 
 driving. The book costs but little money, and anyone who 
 wants to drive properly would do well to invest his \s. 6d., 
 and commit to memory some of the principal rules. ' The 
 field.
 
 " A very businesslike and pleasant little book it is. Captain 
 M. Knight's little book will be found far more serviceable 
 than the big work on Driving in the ' Badminton Library.' 
 The book is provided with copious illustrations and diagrams." 
 National Observer. 
 
 "The advice and details afforded by Captain Knight are 
 about as succinct, clear, and reliable as those which any pupil 
 can desire to acquire." The Road. 
 
 "We have come to the conclusion that the author has 
 accomplished his design with no little success, and that 
 anyone who desires to drive properly would be well advised 
 to study Capt. Knight's pages attentively before spending 
 much money in driving lessons." Baily's Magazine. 
 
 " Much which it is very necessary for the learner to know 
 may be acquired from a writer who is sufficient master of his 
 pen and of his subject to make his meaning clea-r. Such an 
 one is Captain C. Morley Knight, R.A. , whose 'Hints on 
 Driving,' published by Bell and Sons, will supply a long-felt 
 want." Referee 
 
 "The neophyte in handling the ribbons has found an 
 excellent friend in Captain C. M. Knight, R.A., whose 
 ' Hints on Driving ' are exactly what the beginner needs. 
 Capt. Knight is a master in the art, and whatever he says is 
 the fruit of practical experience." Army and Navy Gazette. 
 
 "Quite fulfils its author's object, namely, to explain to 
 beginners the rudimentary principles and niceties of driving." 
 United Service Gazette. 
 
 "A most useful, practical, and handy little work on all 
 that appertains to driving in single and double harness 
 including four-in-hand and tandem driving." Broad Arrow. 
 
 " We have not for some time come across such a thoroughly 
 practical and sound handbook as this." Admiralty and horse 
 Guards Gazette. 
 
 " This little octavo volume should have an immense sale in 
 India, where every household keeps its trap. Herein is given 
 information and instruction on every conceivable point con- 
 nected with the mysterious craft of Whip and Reins." The 
 Pioneer (Allahabad). 
 
 " It is pleasant to meet with a little volume like Captain 
 Knight's ' Hints on Driving,' so erudite and yet so simple." 
 7 'imes of India. 
 
 LONDON: GEORGE BELL AND SONS.
 
 0000307,7