©^©1 P'^B^DTO THE NORTHERN TOURIST. SEVENTY-THREE VIEWS OF LAKE AND MOUNTAIN SCENERY, ETC. IN WESTMORLAND, CUMBERLAND, DURHAM, & NORTHUMBERLAND. LONDON: FISHER, SON, & CO., NEWGATE STREET AND QUAI DES GRANDS AUGUSTINS, PARIS. LI ADDRESS. The Third annual Volume of the Picturesque Lake and Mountain Scenery of England, completes the series of delineations illustrative of the romantic and interesting Counties of Westmorland, Cumberland, Durham, and Northum- berland. The " Tourist" will now direct his researches to other localities, whose scenic adornments are no loss rich and beautiful than those of the " northern" country. He will not bid farewell to his kind and numerous patrons : at each renewal of the Christmas and New Year's festivals, he hopes to be provided with a store of pleasant scenes and recollections, to gladden the social board and winter's hearth. When the " Northern Tourist" commenced his pilgrimage, and assumed the scallop shell, he was cordially welcomed ; and at the renewal of his visit, a reception still more gratifying awaited him. Again he comes, laden with the results of a delightful research during the past year : his stores are rich in scenes of natural beauty and sublimity, in historical and traditionary records; they are his offering to those whose smiles have cheered him in his journeyings, prompted all his efforts, and gladdened his return. The Engraving which forms the Frontispiece to this Volume is a gratuitous offering from the Publishers to their Patrons ; and, consequently, was not contemplated by the Author when closing the descriptive portion of the work. It details with much power and accuracy the scenery of Eskdale, as observed from the vicinity of Dalegarth. The infant course of the Esk river is disclosed ; and the mountains of Scawfell, the Screes, and Bowfell, with other neighbouring elevations, are exhibited in mighty assemblage. London, Nov. 1835. LIST OF PLATES. Frontispiece : — Eskdalc, looking towards Scawfell. 8 9 10 II 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 20 30 31 32 33 34 35 Alnwick Castle, entrance to . . . Ambleside Axwell Park Ayden Castle Bassenthwaite Lake Burnshead Hall Blackliall Rocks Blea U aler Tarn Borrowdale Bowness, from Belle Isle . . . Buttermere Lake and Village . . Bywcll Hall Calder Abbey Carlisle Castle Castle Rock, Vale of St. John . . Chipchase Castle Clare Moss Darlington Dtrwent and Bassenthwaite Lakes Dilston Hall Druids' Stones, near Keswick Durham Cathedral, Interior . . Eagle Crag, from Rosthwaite . . Egremont Feathcrstone Castle Galilee, Durham Cathedral . . Giant's Grave, Penrith .... Gibside Gold-rill Beck Crasmere, from lK)ughrigg Fell . Grisdale Grotto, Castle Eden Ttvnv . . . Hayswater Tarn Helvfllyn, from the N.W. . . . Hexham Market Place . . . page 190 36 199 37 208 38 187 39 210 40 214 41 167 42 198 43 15S 44 169 45 218 40 188 47 200 48 156 49 181 SO 149 51 213 52 107 53 176 54 164 55 185 56 159 57 181 58 202 59 183 60 153 61 153 62 209 63 218 64 161 65 20G 66 155 67 205 68 152 69 157 High Force of the Tees page 161 Holme Hall . .' 186 Hulne Abbey ^^^ J arrow on the Tyne 189 Keswick 212 Langdale Pikes, looking East 214 , looking towards Bowfell . . 216 Long Sleddale Slate Quarry 197 Lyraington Iron ^A■orks '5" Marsden Rocks '"0 Mill Beck and Buttermere Chapel .... 172 Mill Beck, Great Langdale 178 Milnthorpe Sands 165 Muncaster Castle 174 Newcastle, Church of St. Nicholas at, . . 206 Newcastle, the Black Gate at, 208 Percy Cross 150 Prudhoc Castle 103 Royal Arcade, Newcastle ....... 184 Rush-bearing at Ambleside ..... 170 Rydal Hall from Fox How 162 Rydal Water and Grasmere .... . 193 Sizergh Hall, Interior ....... 165 Scout Scar .... 219 Skelwith Bridge 219 Slanhope Castle ......... 191 Stybarrow Crag 179 Tyne, from South Shields ....... 175 Vale of St. John 172 Wasdale Hall 194 Wastwater 1'-15 Whitehaven 173 Windermere, Esthwaile, and Coniston Lakes 204 Windermere, Esthwaite Water, &c 198 Glossary of Provincial TtR^is 220 PICTURESQUE ILLUSTRATIONS OF WESTMORLAND, CUMBERLAND, DURHAM, AND NORTHUMBERLAND. CHIPCHASE CASTLE,— NORTHUMBELAND. Chipchase Castle is a large and beautiful structure, standing on the declivity of a hill, above the North Tyne river ; and is situated nine miles and a half north by west of Hexham. The estate of "Chipches," together with that of AVithill, was held, in 1272, of the barony of Humfranvill, by Peter de Insula. From him the possession passed to the Lisles, and afterwards to the Herons, of Ford Castle, one of whom, Sir John Heron, enjoyed the demesne in the reign of Henry VIII. After continuing in this family through four descents, the estate passed by purchase to the AUgoods, and from them, in like manner, to the ancient house of Reed, of Troughend in Redesdale. The representatives of this family have conveyed the estate to the guardians of Ralpii William Grej', Esq. Leland makes mention of Chipchase, as " a praty town and castle, hard on the easte parte of the arme of North Tyne." And Sir Ralph Sadler, writing to Secretary Cecil, observes, "the most apte and convenyent places for the keeper of Tindale to reside in, on all the frontiers, are Hawgston, Langley, or Chipchase, in one of which iij placis men of service have always been placed, and especially for the well executing of that office of Tindale." The old Tower of the original edifice still remains. "Its roof is built on corbels, and has openings through which to throw down stones or scalding water upon an enemy. The grooves of the portcullis, the porter's chamber above it, and battered fragments of Gothic paintings on the walls, are exceedingly curious." Considerable additions were made to the structure, in 1621, by Cuthbert Heron, Esq.; and many improvements were afterwards effected by the Reeds. The old chapel of Chipchase, which was given to the church of Hexham in 11/2 was entirely rebuilt on the lawn, by John Reed, Esq. ; by whom also the gardens were tastefully arranged, and the grounds ornamented with extensive plan- tations. The neighbourhood of Chipchase includes the most rich and diversified scenery ; and its elevated situation renders the castle an imposing and magnificent object to tiie surrounding country. The interior of the edifice is fitted up in a splendid style ; and some of the apartments are ornamented with valuable paintings, by Vandyke, Tintoretto, Rubens, &c. A reminiscence of the past is still preserved in an heronrtj on the north side of the castle. An anecdote is related of Elizabeth, wife of Sir William Heron, who was residing at Ford Castle when King James of Scotland besieged and took the fortress ; Sir William was, at the time, a prisoner in Scotland. The beauty of this lady made so deep an impression on the monarch's heart, at his first introduction, that he neglected his military duties. It is said that the interview was planned by Earl Surrey, (who was well acquainted with the king's amorous disposition,) to arrest his progress until he could come up with him, which he at length did, to the discomfiture of James at Flodden Field. 2 P 150 PICTURESQUE ILLUSTRATIONS OF WESTMORLAND, PERCY CROSS, OR BATTLE STONE,— NORTHUMBERLAND. This monumental erection stands near the village of Otterburn, and is commemorative of a dreadful battle which was fougiit in that neighbourhood between the English and the Scots. The best topographical authorities concur in noticing the incorrectness of the name " Percy Cross," as applied to this pillar ; the error has probably arisen from con- founding the present memorial with another at Hedgly Moor, which is properly so called. Be it as it may, " Battle Stone" is a more significant and intelligible appellative. The village of Otterburn is pleasantly seated on the north side of the Reed river, three miles west of Elsdon, and derives its name from the Otter rivulet, which falls into the Reed at this place. The Manor and Villa of Otterburn were possessed by the Umfravilles, but belonged to the crown, in the tenth year of the reign of Elizabeth. The estate afterwards descended to the Hall family. A descendant of this house suffered as a rebel, in the reign of Queen Anne, and his demesnes were forfeited to the crown. The manorial property was ultimately sold, under a decree of the Court of Chancery, to James Ellis, Esq. who resides at Otterburn Hall, the site of the old castle, which was so gallantly defended against Earl Douglas. The village and part of the lands were purchased by John Davidson, Esq. of Newcastle, from whom they descended to his son, who has a convenient and neat mansion in tlie neighbourhood. There is a large woollen manufactory in this township. Froisart, in his description of the memorable battle fought here, August nine- teenth, 1388, says of the castle, it was " tolerably strong, and situated among marches, which the Scots attacked so long, and so unsuccessfully, that they were fatigued, and afterwards sounded a retreat." A short time previous to the period just referred to, the Scots had entered Northumberland under the command of earls Douglas, Murray, and March ; and after burning the country as far as Brancepeth Castle, they returned north- w^ird, laden with plunder. In their way back they lay three days before Newcastle, when much skirmishing ensued between them and the English ; and Sir Henry Percy lost his pennon in an encounter with Douglas, who boasted he would fi.x it upon his castle of Dalkeith. The morning after this occurrence, — " The Douglas turned hym homewavdi; agayne, For sotli withowghten naye, He took his logeynge at Otterbnrnc Upon a Wedynsday." The Scots had laboured hard during the day, to reduce the castle, and while they were at supper, " and some were gone to sleep," the English, advancing from Newcastle, entered their camp witli the cry, " Percy ! Percy !" "It was moonlight. The assault, by mistake, was made among the huts of the servants, wiiich gave the Scots (who had settled their CUMBERLAND, DURHAM, AND NORTHUMBERLAND, 151 plans of defence, in case of attack,) time to wheel along the mountain side, and fall upon the English flank. The battle now raged. Douglas and "Harry Percy" (familiarly named Hotspur) had met, and the Scots were giving way, when Sir Patrick Hepburne and his son came, and renewed the fight. The earl of Douglas, who was of a high spirit, seeing his men repulsed, seized his battle-axe with both liis hands, like a gallant knight, and, to rally his men, dashed into the midst of his enemies, and gave such blows on all around him, that no one could withstand them, but all made way for him on every side, until he was met by three spears that pointed at him ; one struck him on the shoulder, another on the stomach, and the third entered his thigh. He could never disengage himself from these spears, but was borne to the ground, fighting desperately. From that moment he never rose again. Some of his knights and esquires had followed him, but not all ; for though the moon shone, it was rather dark. When his followers came up, they found him stretched upon the ground, with his valiant chaplain and a wounded knight by his side. "Thanks to God," said he, "I die like my forefathers, in a field of battle, and not in my chamber upon my bed. Raise up my banner, and continue the cry of — Douglas ! but tell neither friend nor foe that I am dead. The main force of the English army marched over his body. Sir Ralph Percy, badly wounded, was soon after taken prisoner. The contention still continued fierce ; but when the fallen banner again came forward with the cry of ' Douglas ! Douglas !' the Scots made a furious attack, and the English, weary with a long day's march, and the fatigue of battle, at last gave way, and were completely overthrown. There were taken, and left dead on tiie field, on the side of the English, 1040 men of all descriptions ; in the pursuit 1840, and more than 1000 wounded. Of the Scots there were about 100 slain, and 200 made prisoners." Such are the interesting particulars which have descended to us, concerning the famous battle of Otterburn. The fine old English ballad of " Chevy Chase" is generally supposed to refer to this contest ; and a further conmemoration of the event is preserved in another ballad specially entitled " The Battle of Otterburn." We select two stanzas from the latter : "The Forest, Fenwich, Collingwood, The Heron of renown, His^h in the ranks of Lord Percy, The war-axe hewed down. " The Percies in that veni;eful fight Both, both were prisoners ta'en j But for the Douglas' dead body Were yielded up again." It is recorded, however, that the "valiant Hutspur" undertook, for his own ransom, to built the castle of Penvon in Ayrshire, belonging to the family of Montgomery, now earls of Eglintoun. The ground on which the engagement took place is still called liuttle-riggs ; some remains of the intrenchments are yet visible, and a number of tumuli, scattered over the J-., PICTURESQUE ILLUSTRATIONS OF WESTMORLAND, plain, bear corroborative testimony to the records of history. A cairn, or tomb, was opened near Otterburr. about the year 1729, wherein were found ashes, human bones, and burnt wood ; from which it appears that the bodies of the slain were burned before they received sepulture. So far as space permitted, we have, it is trusted, succeeded in giving an interest to the scene which the artist has placed before us. The illustration itself requires little or no explanation from us ; the allusions are conceived with great judgment and effect. The liill on the right, partially wooded, is that wherein the Scotch army was encamped. The moon looks silently on the landscape, as in that night when the war-cry of the Douglas and the Percy echoed through the hills. The " Battle-stone" marks the spot where the Scottish chief fell, overpowered by numbers ; and two Highlanders are noting the proud memorial, and recounting all the great achievements of the Douglas. " So sleep the brave, who sleep in death." HELVELLYN, FROM THE NORTH-WEST,— CUMBERLAND. The altitude of Helvellyn is stated by Otley, in his " Descriptions of the English Lakes," to be three thousand and seventy feet above the level of the sea. From the different summits of this mountain, comprehensive views are obtained of several of the lakes ; and the hills in every direction are thence seen under a more than usually picturesque arrangement. The illustrative view, taken from the north-west, discovers the " mighty Helvellyn" from its base, which is skirted by the lake of Thirlmere or Wythburn Water, to its highest point. The ascent is frequently commenced at this spot ; the facilities for procuring a guide being greater here, and the distance to be traversed much less than from other places. An active pedestrian ma}' easily surmount the difficulties of the journey, though the acclivity is too steep for a horse to keep his footing. The surface of the mountain, in the neighbourhood of its summit, forms a kind of moss -covered plain, inclining towards the west, and terminated eastward by Alpine precipices. Hence, the prospect spreads to an astonishing extent, and embraces great part of the lakes UUswater, Windermere, Coniston, and Esthwaite, together with a number of tarns which lie in the bosom of the hills. " Red Tarn is seated so deeply below the eye, that, compared with its gigantic accompaniments, it would scarcely be estimated at more than half its actual dimensions. To the right and left of Red Tarn, the two narrow ridges called Striding Edge and Swirrel Edge are stretched out. Beyond the latter lies Keppel Cove Tarn, and at the termination of the ridge rises the peak of Catsty Cam, modernized into Catchedecanj. Angle Tarn, and the frothy steam from Hays Water, may be seen among the hills beyond Patterdale ; and, more remote, the estuaries of the Kent and Leven, uniting in the Bay of Morecambe, and extending to the distant ocean." flD. MiMkiiM^" CUMBERLAND, DURHAM, AND NORTHUMBERLAND. J 53 On the western side of Helvellyn, about three hundred yards from tlie summit, there is a spring called Brownrigg Well, whence the water issues copiously in all seasons : the temperature, during the summer months, varies from forty to forty-two degrees. "Mine host" of the Nag's Head skilfully effects the sale of his brandy, by extolling the virtues of this water when mixed with genuine Cognac. THE GIANT'S GRAVE, PENRITH,— CUMBERLAND. In the church-yard of Penrith is preserved a curious antique monument called the Giant's Grave ; the singular character of these remains, and the distant period to which they may beyond doubt refer their erection, are most probably the only authority that could be produced for the name bestowed on them. They consist of two large pillars, bearing resemblance in shape to the spears anciently used, and standing at the distance of fifteen feet from each other ; the space between them is partly enclosed on either side with four very large stones, thin in substance, and of a semicircular figure. Near to them stands another pillar, called the Giant's Thumb; and if this relic be in anywise typical of the member after which it is named, we may fairly conclude that " there wei-e giants in tlie earth in those days." Several rude and totally unintelligible figures still exist on some of these stones, which, if we may credit the uncertain voice of " dim tradition," were raised in pious memory of one Owen Caesarius, an ancient hero, celebrated no less for his mighty achievements than for his colossal stature. THE GALILEE, WEST END OF DURHAM CATHEDRAL. St. Cuthbert, the patron saint of the cathedral church at Durham, conceived a great antipathy to females, and forbade them to approach his shrine, in consequence of an unjust charge brought against him, whilst pursuing a solitary life in the country of the Picts, by a daughter of the king of the provitice. When the followers of the saint had transferred his " incorruptible remains" to Durham, and raised an ecclesiastical structure to his especial honour, they perpetuated the prejudices of their patron by strictly forbidding women to enter the holy sanctuary. In consequence, a structure, named the Galilee, was appended to the west entrance of the building, whither females might repair to their devo- tions, without incurring the displeasure of the saint. The following anecdote will suffice to siiew how rigidly the prohibition of females to enter the church was enforced. " In the year 1333, Edward III. arrived at Durham, and lodged in tlie Priory; a few days after, Queen Philippa came from Knaresborough to meet him, and, being unac- 2Q 154 PICTORESQUE ILLUSTRATIONS OF quainted with the custom of this church, went through the abbey gates to the priory, and, after supping with the king, retired to rest ; at which the monks were much alarmed, and one of them went to the king, and told him that St. Cuthbert had a mortal aversion to the presence of a woman. The king, unwilling to give any offence to the church, imme- diately ordered his queen to arise, who, in her under garments only, returned by the gate through which she had entered, and went to the castle, after most devoutly praying that St. Cuthbert would not avenge a fault which she had througli ignorance committed." Hugh Pudsey, patriarch of Jerusalem, when he came to be advanced to tlie prelacy at Durham, considered that his predecessors, in their zeal to do honour to their patron saint, had entirely overlooked the claims of the Virgin Mary to respect and homage ; he, there- fore, commenced the erection of a chapel at the east end of the cathedral, intending to dedicate it especially to her, and to give females free access for their devotional exer- cises. The work had not, however, proceeded far, when vast clefts were discovered in the building, which appeared to threaten an early demolition. This manifestation, as it was deemed, of the saint's displeasure, determined the bishop to relinquish his purpose. He, notwithstanding, appropriated a portion of the west end, without the interior door of the church, for the Virgin's Chapel, which he named the Galilee, and into this sanctuary females were admitted without offence ; but they were on no consideration to be received within the Cathedral. When the privilege of sanctuary was attached to the church of Durham, those who sought refuge were permitted to enter no farther into the building than the Galilee south door. "Certain men lay in two chambers over the north door, to answer the calls of those who fled hither, that, whenever any offenders came and knocked, they instantly let them in at any hour of the night ; and ran quickly to the Galilee bell, and tolled it, that whoso- ever heard it might know that some one had taken sanctuary." The original entrance to the Galilee was from a small yard adjoining the church-yard, but is now by two doors from the end of the side aisles of the nave. It is eighty feet in length by fifty in breadth, and is divided into five aisles by four rows of clustered columns with semicircular arches. The singular combination of the Norman and pointed styles of architecture displayed in the building, arose from the repairs, directed by Bishop, subse- quently Cardinal, Langley, about the year 1406. The north aisle, which is now walled up, was used as a Register Office, and appropriated to the reception of wills and deeds until 1822, when a more suitable building for the purpose was erected on the west side of the Palace Green. Here were formerly three altars, now entirely removed : the centre one was dedicated to the Holy Virgin. Close beside it is the tomb of Cardinal Langley ; and in the adjoining aisle is a large marble stone, covering the remains of the venerable Bede, the most learned man of his time. The southern side of the chapel is now divided by stalls and benches, and used as the consistory court of the diocese. ti ' ■ CUMBERLAND, DURHAM, AND NORTHUMBERLAND. 15.-, GROTTO, IN CASTLE EDEN DEAN,— DURHAM. A view of Castle Eden, the delightful residence of Rowland Burden, Esq., and of the romantic Dean, or Dene, in its immediate neighbourhood, has already been introduced into this work. Some topographical particulars, both of the edifice and glen, accompa- nied the illustration, and will be found at page 28. The Grotto is an object of great curiosity, well worthy the attention of tourists. It appears to be a natural excavation of the rock, and is approached by a safe and commodious foot-way, formed for the conve- nience of visitors, by order of the spirited and liberal proprietor of the mansion-house. On one side of tlie path the excavated rock rises in a semi-arch ; and on the other, the openino- foliage discovers the rich interior of the wooded valley or dean. BORROWD ALE,— CUMBERLAND. The scenery of Borrowdale comprises the beautiful and the terrific. In the neigh- bourhood of Rosthwaite, a varied and pleasing landscape greets the sight ; but, as the tourist advances towards Derwentwater, the mountains close upon each other, and present a wild and solitary defile, strown with fragments of rock, and wearing an aspect of utter desolation. This view of Borrowdale, taken near the village of Grange, shows the commencement of a rugged pass, which continues for several miles through the mountains, with scarcely a single feature to relieve the awful solitude of the place, beyond tlie Dcrwent river, whose stream is " distilled to crystal" by its passage through a rocky channel. The immediate vicinity of Grange is not deficient in rich accompaniments of wood ; and the scene is here enlivened by the rich foliage of Castle Crag. The Bowder Stone stands opposite to Castle Crag, on the side of tiie road leading from Grange to Rosthwaite. This mass of rock measures about twenty yards in length and ten in height, and is rendered an object of great curiosity by the singular manner in whicii it rests, being poised upon one of its angles, with a trifling additional support towards one end. From the similarity of its veins to those of the adjoining precipice, Bowder Stone appears to have been detached from the latter by lightning, or some violent convulsion of nature. Bowder Stone is visited, in a good measure, on account of the prospect thence obtained of the interior of Borrowdale, extending as far as Rosthwaite. " Bowder Crag is of very singular conformation, consisting of vast masses of rock, disposed partly in strata, and partly in a columnar order. In various places, on the side of the road are huge crazy fragments, which liave been severed from the impending moun- tains by some concussion of nature : some are lying on the level road, others arc appa- rently suspended from the sides of the mountains, and cause the traveller to feel appre- hensions for his personal safety. Several of tliese are covered willi moss, while the crevices of others afford a scanty soil to tlie hardy trees wliich grow out of their sides." J 56 PICTURESQUE ILLUSTRATIONS OF CARLISLE CASTLE,— CUMBERLAND. The castle at Carlisle is pleasantly situated, at the north-west angle of the city, on the summit of a bold eminence overlooking the Eden river. This structure lias been the arena of many important transactions in English history, and still retains much of its original strength and character. The edifice is said to have been begun under William Rufus, but left by him in an unfinished state. In the reign of Henry III. considerable dilapidations had taken place in consequence of the injuries it sustained during the siege by Alexander of Scotland, in 1216. A commission was appointed in 1256, to report upon the state of the building, when it was found that " the queen's chamber, Maunsell's turret, the turret of William de Ireby, the chapel, great hall, kitchen, and other offices," were in a very ruinous condition, owing to the repeated attacks which they had sustained. An estimate was taken in 1344, for its entire renovation, and considerable repairs were effected ; but in the reign of Elizabeth it had again fallen into a ruinous condition, insomuch that " the dungeon tower (which should be the principal defence of the castle) was in a state of great decay, and, although the walls were twelve feet thick, was in daily danger of falling." Orders were therefore issued for its thorough reparation ; and, in the following century, it is recorded to have sustained a siege of several months. Within the present century it has undergone much repair, and considerable additions have been made to the original building. The new barracks, built in 1819, with other rooms appropriated to the use of the garrison, are capable of accommodating upwards of two hundred soldiers. The inner court of the castle contains the great tower, the officers' barracks, the maga- zine erected in 1827, and the tower in which Mary queen of Scots was confined. This portion of the building is separated from the large area by a wall and tower gate, defended by a half-moon battery, which was formerly mounted with cannon, and strengthened by a wide and deep ditch, with a drawbridge. The great tower, or keep, of the fortress, is a massive and lofty square building, now used as an armoury, and contains an effective sup- ply of warlike weapons. Beneath the armoury are the dungeons — prison-houses of vast extent, and of frowning aspect. Here, also, is an exceedingly deep well, said to have been sunk by the Romans for the purpose of insuring a supply of water to the garrison during a siege. From the battlements of the tower an extensive prospect is obtained, comprising a variety of pleasing features in the mountain and sylvan scenery of the surrounding country. This castle was repeatedly invested by the Scots, and suffered greatly at their hands. It was seized by the Pretender in the very outset of his rash attempt upon the throne of England, and its spoils furnished his followers with arms and ammunition, of which, till then, they had a very inefficient supply. The visits of majesty, at different periods, and the important consultations held from time to time within its ^valls, serve also to render this fortress an object of much interest to the historian and the antiquary. ^:':^ jp : ^.t -c; .i:^.c:^jL.-.e'. A « .;^f^S^: :-^v ^"■'^■.:?stance, that in l.'jlJG the town consisted of six fishermen's huts ; and one small bark only, of nine tons burden, entered the port, and that for the purpose of supplying the brotherhood with fish, salt, and other necessary articles. At the disso- lution of religious houses, an ancestor of the Lowther family purchased the lands in the neighbourhood of Whitehaven ; and to his descendants, the town and port are indebted in a good measure for the vast improvements that have been effected in their general appearance and prosperity. The present town is laid out with much taste and elegance. The streets are broad and straight, intersecting each other at right angles ; the houses are, for the most part, con- structed of stone, and roofed with blue slate. The churches and other public buildings are handsome and appropriate structures. The extensive harbour is protected by seven stone piers, stretching into the ocean in different directions. From the whiteness of the rocky head-lands, the port is supposed to have received its name of JFhitc-Huvoi. The open valley in which the town is situated, is generally supposed to have been anciently occupied by the sea ; the appearance of the soil, and the discovery of a ship's anchor at a considerable depth in the ground, seein to favour the opinion. The coal trade of Whitehaven is very extensive. Several of the seams in which this useful mineral is found lie below the bed of the sea, and have been wrought for many years with such persevering enterprise, that the mines present the appearance of a subterranean city. Kail-roads are laid for transporting the coals from the mines to the harbour. Some of the pits are three hundred and twenty yards in depth, extending to a great distance under the ocean : so that ships of large burden sail over the miners' heads. The fulminating damps engendered in tiie coal mines, if not conveyed by large pipes into the open air, produce in the pit an effect resembling the eruption of a volcano. The coal itself has been frequently ignited by them, and has continued to burn for many months ; while the foul vapour, in its course through the shaft, has carried \\\l\\ it ponderous bodies, and projected tluMu to a great height into the air. Mr. Spcdding, formerly engineer of the coalworks in this neighbourhood, having observed that the fire-damp could only be kindled by flame, invented a machine in which a revolving steel wheel elicits from flints properly disposed a continual train of sparks, affording sufficient light for tlie miner's purpose, and superseding the use of light or candle. This contrivance, however, was not an eflectnal preservation, for the ingenious contriver lost his life by an explosion of the damps, where 2 X 1^4 PICTURESQUE ILLUSTRATIONS OF WESTMORLAND, his machine w.is in operation. The Safety-Lamp, invented by Sir Humplirey Davy, has succeeded better ; yet, though it may be demonstrated to be perfect in theory, lamentable accidents have shown that, without great care on the part of the miner, it will fail in practice. tPaul Jones, the notorious pirate, served an apprenticeship to a mariner of Whitehaven. This desperado landed here, early in the morning on the 23rd April, 1/78, with about hirty armed men, from on board the American privateer, Ranger, which carried eighteen six-pounders and six swivels, and had been fitted out at Nantes for this hostile expedition. After setting fire to three ships, Paul was betrayed by one of his men, and obliged to make a precipitate retreat, leaving the shore in two boats before any force could be brought against him, having taken the precaution to spike all the guns on the nearest battery. The maritime importance of Whithaven, in the reign of Charles II., led to the establish- ment of a Custom House. In the year 1811, the present large and convenient edifice was erected, in the West Strand. The Earl of Lonsdale, who is lord of the manor, and proprietor of the coal mines, has a delightful residence near Whitehaven, called the Castle. This structure appears on the right of our view. MUNCASTER CASTLE,— CUMBERLAND. Muncaster Castle, the residence of the Right Honourable Lowther Augustus John Pennington, Lord Muncaster, is a handsome structure, delightfully situated on the north side of the Esk river. A spacious park and beautiful walks and gardens lie in the vicinage of the edifice. It commands an extensive prospect towards the south-west, of land and marine scenery. The predecessor of the noble lord covered the neighbouring hills with forest- trees, and introduced into his pastures a breed of cattle of acknowledged superiority. The present possessor is a lineal descendant of the family of Pennington, who have enjoyed the Muncaster estate from the period of the Norman conquest. The honour of knighthood was conferred on many of this house for their distinguished valour in the field. The illustrative view is taken from the ancient city of Burnscar, some extensive ruins lying on the south side of the Esk. No historical documents are in existence, to throw a light on the origin of these remains. Tradition ascribes the foundation to the Danes, who are said to have gathered for its inhabitants the men of Drig, and the women of Becker- mont ; and the old popular saying, " Let tis go together like lads of Drig and lasses of Beckermont," is gravely urged in confirmation of the tale. "This place is about three hundred yards long, from east to west ; and one hundred broad, from north to south ; it is walled round, save at the east end, nearly three feet in height. There appears to have been a long street, with several cross ones : the remains of house-steads within the walls are not very numerous ; but on the outside they are innumerable, especially at the south side and west end. About the year 1/30, a considerable quantity of silver coin was discovered in the ruins of one of the houses, concealed in a cavity formed in a beam." I :^^ ^^ .X -JH ' f ii^'''*^ liN* .,"t.r--«' :^TOwr- CUMBERLAND, DURHAM, AND NORTHUMBERLAND. I75 THE TYNE FROM SOUTH SHIELDS,— DURHAM. South Shields is of small extent, being, as its name imports, merely the land by the water's side, formerly inhabited by a few fishermen, whose hovels were provincially called Shiels. Great part of it is now occupied with ship yards, manufactories, &c., and the town, like its twin relative on the opposite side of the Tyne, has rapidly increased in opulence, buildings and population, since the restrictive charters were removed. This town contained, at the census 1831, a population of 9070 ; and it sends one member to parliament. There are in South Shields ciglit large manufactories for all kinds of glass ; but the salt trade is now considerably less than it was formerly. However, the great increase of shipping indicates that the trade of this port is in a high state of prosperity. Our illustration refers more particularly to the Tyne and its craft ; we therefore waive further allusion to the site whence it is taken, having on a former occasion detailed, in brief, the history of North and South Shields. The Tyne is at this point near its confluence with the German Ocean, and presents a noble expanse of water, rendered picturesque by the objects on either shore, and the ship- ping lying in masses on its surface. Tlie maritime importance of our country, particu- larly when brought so immediately under review, is a kindling theme ; and much might be said in praise of our ships and their crews : we, however, are not orators, as Brutus was ; despairing therefore of saying much to the purpose in prose, we have few appre- hensions of doing less in rhyme. Success unto the goodly Tyne ! For 'tis a noble river : Now listen to a song of mine ; Which I'll to you deliver. Her sailors are a jolly crew, Stout-hearted, active, brave ; Tlieir jackets of Old England's blue, — They laugh at wind and wave. On top-mast, and on deck the same, A bold, undaunted band ; And well 'tis known from whence they came, Wherever they may land. To reef a sail, to clue a line, There's none like them beside ; They hold their course, and track the brine. Despite of wind and tide. , Now tell me, after what I've said Concerning of this hale crew. For what was boundless ocean made ? Why, — made for them to sail through t 176 PICTURESQUE ILLUSTRATIONS OF WESTMORLAND, MARSDEN ROCKS,— COAST OF NORTH DURHAM. Marsden, or Marston Rocks, are enormous craggy masses which have been detached from the coast by the violence of the sea. One of them, situated about a mile from the Suter Point, and called, par eminence, the Marston Rock, is, at high water, about fifty or sixty yards from the land, though within memory it was so near as to have been reached by a plank. All the intermediate part has been washed away, and even a large aperture formed by the force of the waves in the body of the rock, through which sailing boats have frequently passed at convenient stages of the tide. Adjacent to t/ie Rock are other large and irregular masses, that have been separated from the land, and which rear their gigantic forms with considerable majesty. In the vicinity of these rocks is a much frequented place, called felvet Bed. This is a small island covered with smooth grass, and is frequently the scene of festivity and amusement during the bathing season, when the visitors to Tynemouth and its neighbour- hood resort hither in pic-nic parties. Witliin a short distance of this island, there is a singular excavation in the rocks, called Fairies' Kettle, one hundred yards in length, and thirty in breadth. DERWENT AND BASSENTHWAITE LAKES, KESWICK AND SKIDDAW IN THE DISTANCE ;— CUMBERLAND. (The Drawing is taken from the Road to Watendleth.) The usual size of our engravings has been departed from in this instance, to enable the artist to comprise with distinctness, in one view, the rich and extensive scenery sur- rounding Derwent and Bassenthwaite Lakes. It is hoped that this engraving will be deemed a pleasing variety in our Illustrations, and an evidence of the solicitude with which the publishers regard the management of a work that has long since established itself in popular favour. The view is taken from the road to Watendleth, from a point whence the eye surveys the whole extent of the two lakes before-named. The town of Keswick lies in the vale on the right ; the lofty Saddleback, e;isily distinguishable from its form, rises " into the clear blue heaven ;" and, more remote, " in all the majesty of distance," stands Skiddaw. The leading features of Derwentwater have been described in connexion with previous and detached views of the lake ; to avoid repetition, therefore, we shall confine ourselves at present to such interesting incidents and particulars as are not included in our former notes. The beautiful isles of the Derwent claim particular regard ; and of these, the one named St. Herbert's Island deserves a more than ordinary notice. This insulated para- dise includes an extent of about four acres, and is situated near the centre of the lake. W-M CUMBERLAND, DURHAM, AND NORTHUMBERLAND. 177 It obtained its name from St. Herbert, a priest and confessor, wbo, about tbe middle of the seventh century, made it his lonely abode. He was particularly distinguished for his friendship to St. Cuthbert ; and, according to a legendary tale, at the intercession of St. Herbert, they both expired on the same day, and in the same hour and minute. At Lindisfame, expecting death, Tlie good St. Cutlibert lay. With wasted frame and feeble breath ; And monks were there to pray. The brotherhood had gather'd round, His parting words to hear, To see his saintly labours crown'd. And stretch him on the bier. His eyes grew dim ; his voice sunk low ; The choral song arose ; And ere its sounds had ceas'd to flow, His spirit found repose. At that same hour, a holy man, St. Herbert, well renown'd. Gave token that his earthly span Had reach'd its utmost bound. St. Cuthbert, in his early years, Had led him on lus way : When the tree falls, the fruit it bears Will surely too decay. The monks of Lindisfarne meanwhile Were gazing on their dead : At that same hour, in Derwent isle, A kindred soul had fled. The remains of St. Herbert's hermitage are still visible ; and near to these hallowed ruins stands a small octagonal cottage, of unhewn stone, erected some years ago by Sir Wilfred Lawson, to whose representative the island at present belongs. The dwelling of the anchorite consisted of two apartments, one of which, about twenty feet in length by sixteen in width, appears to have been his chapel ; the other, whose dimensions are con- siderably less, was his cell. The surface of Derwent-water is frequently in a state of agitation, when not a breath of air is stirring ; and the motionless quietude of the foliage on its borders, contrasts singularly with its tumultuous and rulBed waves. This remarkable phenomenon lasts sometimes for an hour or two, at others for a whole day ; and it is usually during its continuance that the floating island is visible on the surface of the lake. 2 Y j»g PICTURESQUE ILLUSTRATIONS OF WESTMORLAND, Skiddaw forms a distinguishing feature in the mountain scenery of Derwent-water. 'Ihe most accurate surveys determine its altitude to be three thousand and twenty-two feet above the level of the sea, and about two thousand eight hundred feet above lake Derwent. As a tour to the lakes would be considered incomplete if the visitor did not gratify himself with a view of the country from at least one of the lofty elevations in the district, Skiddaw is generally selected for the purpose ; it is nearest to Keswick, the prin- cipal station, is easy of access, and is ascended with less difficulty than others by ladies, who can ride on horseback to the very summit ; and, in addition, the view from it is little intercepted by other mountains. Sometimes, indeed, the visitor has the mortifica- tion, after having reached the highest point, to find himself enveloped in a cloud, which, though constantly passing, is never dispelled during his stay. " Those however, who are fortunate enough to be upon the summit at the very time of the cloud's departure, will experience a gratification of no common kind ; when, like the rising of the curtain in a theatre, the country in a moment bursts upon the eye." The lake of Bassenthwaite is of greater length than Derwent-water, but does not equal it in breadth. Lying as it does at some distance from the mountain range, it is usually viewed with less interest than other lakes. Its western side is riclily wooded ; and, towards the east, it displays a fine breadth of cultivation, indented with bays and pro- montories. " On the verdant tops of some of the hills in the neighbourhood of this lake, may be discovered traces of the plough, for which it is difficult to assign a satisfactory reason. Tradition says, that the Pope, in tlie reign of King John, cursed all the lower grounds, which obliged the inhabitants to cultivate the hills." Mr. Pennant, however, observes — " I rather think that John himself drove them to this cruel necessity ; for, out of resent- ment for their declining to follow his standard to the borders of Scotland, he cut down their hedges, levelled their ditches, and gave all the cultivated tracts of the north to the beasts of the chase, on his return from his expedition. MILL BECK, GREAT LANGDALE,— WESTMORLAND. The scenery in the neighbourhood of Mill Beck, in Great Langdale, is of the most interesting kind ; and includes many of the picturesque objects so eagerly sought after by the visitor to the Lakes. The road, in the foreground of the view, is that usually taken from Ambleside to Langdale Pikes. At its extremity stands a mill, giving name to the beck or stream, which descends in a beautiful cascade from the mountains, and continues its course till, witli other tributary rivulets, it reaches the tarn of Elterwater. The loftiest elevation in tlic view, is that of Harrison Stickle ; and on the right is seen the hill of Pavey Ark ; between these two mountains Stickle Tarn is situated. Colwith Force, Blea Tarn, and Dungeon Gill are comprised in the scenery of Langdale. CUMBERLAND, DUKHAM, AND NORTHUMBERL.\ND. I79 STYBARROW CRAG,— WESTMORLAND. Stybarrow Crag is a lofty promontory, deeply scarred by winds and torrents, ter- minating a mountainous ridge that descends from Helvellyn. A road winds beneath this crag, commanding a fine view of Ullswater. The situation of this pass, with its steep acclivity on the one hand, and the waters of the lake on the other, might have suggested to Sir Walter Scott the following graphic description, which occurs in the " Lady of the Lake" — " At length they came where, stern and sleep, The hills sink down upon the deep. Here Vennachar in silver flows ; There ridge on ridge Benledi rose; Ever the hollow path twined on, Beneath steep bank and threat'ning stone; An hundred men might hold the post With hardihood against a host. The rugged mountain's scanty cloak Was dwarfish shrubs of birch and oak. With shingles bare, and clifls between, And patches bright of bracken green. And heather black that waved so high. It held the copse in rivalry." Leaving the scene before us, we now briefly refer to the tales of other times, in order to illustrate an incident which the artist has skilfully introduced into the view. In olden time, when the contiguous countries of England and Scotland held no amicable relation to each other, it may well be supposed that the mountain ridges, forming the line of demarcation between the two territories, would frequently be the scene of fierce contention between a rival people. The proximity of the English and Scots in the neighbourhood of the border line, and the inoperative character of the laws, arising from the disorders of the feudal system, which filled both countries with chiefs and petty governors, eager, and sufficiently powerful, to make aggressions and reprisals on each other, — are of themselves a sufficient explanation of the causes which led to those continued strifes called the border warfare. The deep enmity of the hostile parlies towards each other, overthrew in a good measure all moral obligation and honourable feeling : incursions were frequently made from the north, less for the purpose of conten- tion in arms, than for committing depredations on cattle and property. Hence the name of freebooters came to be applied to the border clans, and ultimately witii much jitslice; for in course of time it was deemed matter of indifference by either party whether they ]gO PICTURESQUE ILLUSTRATIONS OF WESTMORLAND, preyed on their rival neighbours or on their own countrymen. Instances are, however, on record, in which the border feuds were distinguished by a romantic and chivalrous feeling, that may well be supposed to have animated great and noble minds, in an age when the most powerful sceptre was the sword, and martial prowess the most estimable quality of manhood. " Those were the days, the olden days, When border feuds ran high, And the men of the north oft times sallied forth On deeds of chivalry. On baith sides of the river Tweed The rival clans wad meet, And the bluid o' the foe, like a streamlet flow. O'er the heather aneath their feet. The clan was summon'd, the dogs were loos'd, The gallant stag to chase ; But raony were they, wha at close of day Na relumed to their dwelling place. As o'er the Cheviot hills they pass'd, (Blithe hunters all were they,) The slughorn's deep sound told the north countrie round. The Scots were abroad that day. Then rose up England's merry men, They rose up ane and all ; Hark, forward, hark, hark ! Hark, follow, hark ! Did ilk to ither call. They met thegilher in Tiviotdale, Nae word of parley said ; And 'was a sair sight to look on the fight, And see the warm bluid shed. Now heaven gie rest to the souls of a' Wha liv'd in those times o'disorder ; There were guide men and bra' in the olden day. On baith sides o' the border." The illustration under review embodies an incident touching the border warfare, connected with the history of the Mounsey family. We cannot hope to impart any novel interest to " a thrice-told tale ;" and therefore briefly state the particulars as tradition has conveyed them. A band of the Scots having entered Westmorland on a predatory expe- dition, a chief was wanting to lead the peasantry to battle with the intruders. A rustic, named Mounsey, ofi'ered his services ; and proceeding with a few trusty shepherds to the pass of Stybarrow Crag, there met the Scots and defeated them. For this important service he was proclaimed king of Patterdale, a title that he enjoyed during his life, and which continued with his descendants for many years after his death. ^^4 CUMBERLAND, DURHAM, AND NORTHUMBERLi\ND. lyi EAGLE CRAG FROM ROSTHWAITE, BORROWDALE. Eagle Crag is a tremendous rock, at the head of Borrowdale to the east, where eagles liave commonly fixed their habitation. The young eagles are occasionally caught by the adventurous inhabitants of the valley, who, when standing underneath, observe the place where the nest is seated, and afterwards, from the summit of some cliff, let down by ropes one of the most hardy of their companions, to secure the nest while the old eagles are abroad. The present view includes a branch of the Derwent river, the hamlet of Stonetiiwaite, the lofty acclivity of Eagle Crag, and a distant glimpse of "the mighty Helvellyn." CASTLE ROCK, VALE OF ST. JOHN,— CUMBERLAND. Have the days of the wizard relumed again ? Halh a deep spell been ullcred o'er hill and plain ? And fairy forms on their gossamer wings, Thrown round us a veil of rich shadowings? Where are the days when the wand of the seer Wrought its fabrics of beauty o'er earth and in air; When mystical forms on the mountains were cast, While it wav'd o'er the forests that moan'd as it pass'd ? Invisible melodists hung o'er each vale. And fiU'd with rich music the leaf-stirring gale ; It pour'd, like a rush of the waters, along. And the rocks echoed back the sweet notes of the song. From mists, as they curl'd on the brow of the hill. The enchanter could weave his bright visions at will ; From cloud and from vapour the picture was made, That call'd back the past, and the future displayed. The enchantment is broken, the soell that could bind In its magical fetters the rovings of mma. Hath slept through long ages ; Tradition, alone, Remains, to discourse of the things that are gone. Hutchinson, in his "Excursion to the Lakes," has described this singular scene so happily, and with such poetic feeling, that we cannot do better than give the account in his own words. •2 Z 182 PICTURESQUE ILLUSTRATIONS OF WESTMORLAND, " An ancient ruined castle seems to stand upon the summit of a little mount, the mountains around forming au amphitheatre. This massive bulwark shows a front of various towers, and makes an awful, rude, and gothic appearance, with its lofty turrets and ragged battlements : we traced the galleries, the bending arches, and the buttresses. The greatest antiquity stands characterized in its architecture ; the inhabitants near it assert that it is an antediluvian structure. "The traveller's curiosity is roused, and he prepares to make a nearer approach, when that curiosity is put upon the rack by his being assured, that, if he advances, certain genii, who govern the place by virtue of their supernatural arts and necromancy, will strip it of all its beauties, and by enchantment transform the magic walls. The vale seems adapted for the habitation of such beings ; its gloomy recesses and retirements look like the haunts of evil spirits. There was no delusion in this repoi't ; we were soon convinced of its truth ; for this piece of antiquity, so venerable and noble in its aspect, as we drew near, changed its figure, and proved no other than a shaken massive pile of rocks, which stand in the midst of this little vale, disimited from the adjoining mountains, and have so much the real form and resemblance of a castle, that they bear the name of the Castle Rocks of St. John." There could scarcely be found, in the whole range of mythological fable, any thing more beautiful than the popular superstition which ascribes the disappearance of " the castle," on a near approach, to supernatural agency. Frigid philosophy would say, these fragments of rock, when viewed from afar, bear strong resemblance to an old fortress ; but as one approaches nearer, the illusion vanishes, and they are found to be shapeless masses of stone. Poetry clothes this fact in beautiful imagery : she warns the intruder to survey the structure at a distance ; for should he have the temerity to advance upon it, the incensed genii of the place will, by spells " of power to cheat the eye with blear illu- sion," transform its fair proportions into a mis-shapen pile of rocks. This pleasing fiction emanated from the same poetical spirit that wrought, in the elder days of Greece, the splendid fable of Aurora in her salTron-coloured robe opening the gates of the morn- ing to the chariot of the sun. The present illustration, by the introduction of two equestrian figures, is made to refer directly to that scene in the "Bridal of Triermain," where the castle is said to have opened its gates to King Arthur and his companion De Vaux. " Willi toil the king liis way pursued. By lonely Threll.eld's waste and wood, Till on his course obliquely shone The narrow valley of St. John, Piled in by many a lofty hill, Tlie narrow dell lay smooth and still. And, down its verdant bosom led, A winding brooklet found its bed." » j^ .; .rZivU- ai is.ust have been a place of enviable security ; its situation and martial aspect would enable its inmates to smile at the futility of an assault, attended on the one hand by such perilous difficulties for the assailants, and on the other by so many advantages and facilities for disconcerting the attacks. BYW^LL HALL,— NORTHUMBERLAND. Bywell Hall, the magnificent villa of Thomas Wentworth Beaumont, esq., stands near the village of Bywell, and is distant four miles, south-east, from Corbridge. The structure is seated on a beautiful lawn, adorned by forest trees, and having on its south side the river Tyne, in which there is a picturesque islet, and, on the opposite bank, an extensive plan- tation, and the ruins of a domestic chapel. In the neighbourhood of the Hall are the remains of an old baronial castle, which appears to have been, at some distant period, a fortress of considerable strength. Bywell Hall is built in the Ionic style ; the basement story is rusticated, and the front, facing the lawn, adorned with pilasters, supporting an architrave and pediment. The architectural design displays throughout a high degree of chastity and elegance. The parish church of Bywell St. Peter, dedicated to the patron saint, forms a pleasing object in the present view. This ancient edifice is of considerable magnitude, and has a square tower ; near to it stands the church of St. Andrew, a smaller building, with a lofty steeple. Between the structures is an ancient stone cross. CUMBERLAND, DURHAM, AND NORTHUMBERLAND. igg JARROW ON THE TYNE,— DURH.VM. The village of Jarrow, s^ivinir name to a populous and extensive parish, is pleasantly situated on the south side of the Tyne, at the point where the river expands, and forms the Slake of Jarrow, and is distant six miles east from Newcastle. This place was anciently called Gyrvy, the Saxon name for a marsh or fen ; and the inhabitants were known by the appellation of Gyrvii, or Fen-men. For some time prior to the evacuation of Jiritaia by the Romans, Jarrow had been a place of considerable importance, and so continued for several centuries afterwards, till the dissolution of its celebrated monaster}', when it gradually fell into decay. Hutchinson says, "little more remained of this once famous town, when we visited it in 178-, than two or three mean cottages, tlie distracted ruins of the old monastery; the church, a venerable pile, then patched up so as to retain few traces of its original figure, and the capacious haven, now called the Slake, washed full of sand, and left dry by tlie river Tyne at ebb of tide." Jarrow was anciently in the occupation of the Romans, as is evidenced by two inscrip- tions discovered during the rebuilding of the church ; from one of these we gather, that " the army erected this, on the extension of the Roman dominion in Britain from the western to the eastern sea ; " the other is on the fragment of an altar, and supposed to have been " erected /;ro salute, of all the adopted sons of Adrian." Roman pavements have also been discovered in the immediate neighbourhood; and the foundations of buildings, distinctly referring to Imperial era, have been found in the fields on the north side of the church. The monastic edifice at Jarrow was founded by the Saxons; who, according to their usual policy, in availing themselves of the sites of Roman stations, commenced an ecclesias- tical structure, in honour of St. Paul, on the 23d of April, A.D. 685. This foundation was consolidated with the monastery of Monkwearniouth, dedicated to St. Peter, which had been established a few years before ; and the joint institution is named in records as " the monastery of St. Peter and St. Paul. " The two buildings were erected and endowed by the same founder and patron, St. Benedict and King Egfrid ; the latter of whom set apart for its use forty hides of land. The first abbot at Jarrow wasCcolfrid, who obtained for his cliurch, from King Alfred, an additional grant of eight hides of land, afterwards exchanged for twenty, lying contiguous to the monastery in the village of Sambucc. Under the government of St. Benedict and Ceolfrid, nearly six hundred monks were gathered in the united houses. St. Bede, belter known in history as the Venerable Bede, is said to have been born at Monkton in the parish of Jarrow, about the year 07*2. After receiving the rudiments of education here and at Hexham, he took the tonsure, " and spent the remainder of his life in great piety, and unwearied application to letters, in the monastery 3 B 190 PICTURESQUE ILLUSTRATIONS OF WESTMORLAND, at Monkwearmouth and at Jarrow, at which latter place he died May 26th, 735, and was buried in a porch, built to his honour on the north side of the church ; where, to this day is shown a little stone mansion, in which he was wont to sit and meditate." Nearly three centuries after tliis event, Elfred, a priest, and a famous collector of saintly remains, removed the body of St. Bede to Durham, where it was honourably deposited in the same cofl&n with St. Cuthbert. The genius and acquirements of this great man, viewing them in connexion with the then limited extension of knowledge, must have rendered him a person of great weight and autiiority with his contemporaries ; and, indeed, we find that all ranks of people united to do him honour : — the poor implored his blessing, and the rich made offerings of their wealth under his dii-ection ; the weak sought and ever found his pro- tection, and the most powerful potentates of the age took counsel of liis wisdom. Near Monkton there still exists a " holy well" bearing his name; and till very lately it was resorted to as a Bethesda of healing power. The monastery of Jarrow could scarcely hope to escape the ravages and fury of the Danes, who in all their incursions seem to have levelled their strength more especially against the monastic structures. It was several times plundered, and partially burnt ; yet, phcenix-like, it still preserved the principle of existence, till at the dissolution it shared the common fate of all those ancient institutions, whose wealth, rather than their irregu- larities, had become an inexpiable crime in the eyes of Henry VIII. The church, (properly so called, independent of the general range of monastic offices) was rebuilt in 17*33, except the chancel and tower, which remain in the same state as at the dissolution. In the vestry may stili be seen the chair of St. Bede, rudely formed of oak ; to this relic many virtues are ascribed, but as they refer entirely to the gentler sex, we make no other mention of them than this : — " Many a fair pilgrim has borne away pieces of this wonder-working relic, to place them under her pillow, confident that the man she dreams of, under so powerful a charm, is destined to be her husband." The monks of Jarrow belonged to the order of St. Benedict. The habit of these monks was a black loose coat, or gown of stuff, reaching down to their heels, with a cowl or hood of the same, and a scapulary ; and under that a white habit, nearly as large as the former, made of flannel ; tlicse, with a pair of boots, completed their costume. From the sombre tinct of their garments they obtained the name of "Black Monks." The course of devotions included " the nocturnal, at two in the morning ; the matuis, at six ; the tierce, at nine ; the sexte, at twelve ; the none, at three in the afternoon ; the vespers, at six in the evening; and the compline, at seven." Tlic remains of the monastery have suffered greatly, not only from the usual ravages of lime, but also from a rapacity of spirit which little respects what the lapse of ages and the records of history have hallowed. Still, however, some interesting fragments of the edifice are scattered over its site, and identify a spot where Christianity (veiled, we admit, by idle superstitions) rooted itself, and spread forth branches, whence has been cultivated the fruitful Lebanon of succeeding ages. CUMBERLAND, DURHAM, AND NORTHUMBERL:\ND. I9I STANHOPE CASTLE.— DURHAM. Stanhope is an ancient market town and parish, pleasantly situated in Weardale, at the distance of twenty miles west from Durham. The neighbourhood comprises an extensive mountainous district, abounding with lead ore ; and a great portion of the population are employed in working the mines. Within a short distance from the western extremity of the town stands Stanhope Castle, a large structure, guarded with a curtain wall, and over- looking the river Wear. This mansion was formerly the family residence of the Feather- stonehaughs, the last male descendant of whicii house perished in the civil wars ; the castle and estates were then sold. It is now the seat of Cuthbert Rippon, esq. M. P. The original part of the edifice was erected by the late Cuthbert Rippon, esq. and is a square pile of building, fronting the south, with two semicircular projections on each side. To the east the present proprietor has added an elegant conservatory, connecting the main building with a lofty square tower, which is occupied by an extensive museum, and lighted by large and elegant windows, divided into Gothic compartments, as displayed in the annexed view. The entrance to this tower, in consequence of the declivity on which it and the conservatory stand, is in the second story, around the interior of which is a beautiful gallery of brass, whence a geometrical staircase descends to the depository of mineral curiosities. The upper walls are covered with splendid specimens of ornithology, and other varieties ; and the whole reflects credit on the taste of the spirited proprietor. All the towers and walls of the castle are embattled ; and the garden and pleasure-grounds are laid out to great advantage. " Stanhope," says a late tourist, "derives great beauty from the broad foliage whicli here adorns the vale. The opposite bank is studded over with trees, which give it a chequered and beautiful appearance. Some of them are ranged in hedge-rows, which have a formal appearance, while others are less regularly arranged, in masses, of breadth and \ariety much more interesting than the other portion. Their contrast affords a simple but useful lesson in ornamental planting, whicli the improved taste of the present day has discovered to be much more dependent on the freedom and simplicity of nature tlian tlie formal rulus of art." As the ground rises from the river, the sylvan beauties of the vale gradually disappear; and the bleak and lofty hills in the distance present a striking contrast to the scene above described. It is in the bowels of the earth, however, and not upon its surface, that the industry of man has been here most successfully applied; and tlie riches of the lead-mines in this district have wc!l repaid his exertions.* * The rectory of .Stanli(i|je, (he principal cmoliinipnts of vvliicli are derived from the leadiiiiiies, is one of llie richest in the kingdom; and several of the incunilients ha\e stepped from it into the episcopal dignity. The late rector, Henry Phillpotts, D.D. is now bishop of Kxeter. 192 PICTURESQUE ILLUSTRATIONS OF WESTMORLAND, The talents and. public spirit of Cuthbert llippon, esq. having rendered him highly popular in the borough of Gateshead, he was elected its representative in parliament on the r2th of December, 1832; being the first member ever returned for tiiat place. The name of Stanhope is derived by Hutchinson from Stune-hope, llie fortified hill, or atand-hape, the hill where the inhabitants made their chief resistance against an enemy ; an idea which is furnished by a remarkable eminence at the west end of the town, one hundred and eight feet high, and called the Castle Hill, or the Castle Heugh. At a short distance to the west is the ancient park of the bishop of Durham, in which these "mitred princes " formerly held their great Chace, attended by their vassals, and displaying all the pomp of feudal chiefs. In 1327, this park was the scene of a campaign between a marauding army of Scots, under Randolf and Douglas, and an English force of forty thou- sand men, led by the youthful and impetuous Edward III. The Scots occupied a lofty hill on the south of the river Wear, defying the English to drive them from it ; and several days were occupied in fruitless endeavours to draw them from their advantageous post. On one occasion, a party of them, during the night burst into the English camp, cut the cords of the king's tent, killed about three hundred men, and then retired with some loss. On the following evening they lighted fires along the heights, and, under cover •of the night, escaped into Cumberland with their booty. When Edward was informed of the deception in the morning, he lamented with tears the escape of his enemies. Historians have described the army of the Scots as peculiarly adapted for predatory excursions. It consisted entirely of cavalry, some idea of which may be formed from Scott's « Watt Tynlynn," who ' Led a small and shaggy nag, That through a bog from bag to hag Could bouud like any Bilhope stag." This bounding from hag to hag was exactly what the Scottish horse had to perform in their retreat over the western fells. The troops were unencumbered with provision or baggage. Their drink was the water of the river or brook ; their meat the cattle of the country, which they slaughtered, and then boiled in the skins; and they carried with them a scanty supply of oatmeal in a bag, which each horseman attached to his saddle. The velocity with which they advanced, or retreated, was such as to make it difficult either to discover or pursue them. During the confusion which prevailed on the rebellion of the Earls of Westmorland and Northumberland, Weardale was harassed by a troop of Border plunderers. Thi event is commemorated in a ballad called " The Raid of Rookhope," inserted in Scott's Border Minstrelsy. The homely bard very naturally exlaims, " Lord God! is not this a pitiful case, That men dare not drive their goods to t'fell, But limnier thieves drives them away That fears neither heauen nor hell?" s t LMBERLAND, DURHAM, AND NORTHUMBERLAND. ig;} In the neighbourhood of Stanhope, on the north, are several natural caves, cjiUed Hctlicrlntrn C«ir.«, which are open for nearly a mile in length, " and wherein nature, in all her gloomy sport of subterranean magnificence, displays wonders similar to those of the "Peak," and other celebrated caverns. RYDAL WATER AND GRASiMEllE, FROM RYDAL PARK,— WESTiMORLAXD. A comprehensive viewf is here submitted to the patrons of the " Lake Scenery," including the lakes of Rydal Water and Grasmere, in connection with all the noble and pictu- resque objects in their vicinity- It were idle to insist on the advantage which the reader must derive from a general delineation. The detached views render him familiar with the prominent beauties of this romantic neighbourhood, while the present design exhibits an orderly arrangement of the whole, and exposes, much more effectually than any description could do, the relative position of places and objects. With reference to the size and style of the engraving, we may be permitted to suggest the consideration, — what would, a few years since, have been the cost of this impression, here included in a work of British art for less than sixpence ? The village of Rydal, situated on the north side of the lake, is supposed to havp derived its name from Rothay-dale, — tiie river Rothay flowing from Laiigdale Pikes, through the lakes of Grasmere and Rydal to Windermere. This village has long enjoyed the munificent bounty of the Le Fleming family, whose hall stands adjacent, embosomed in a beautiful park, on a gently rising eminence near the foot of Rydal Water. In the rear of the Hall rise the mountains of Fairfield and Rydal Head ; from tiie latter of wliich tiie extensive prospect delineated in our view is obtained. " In the woods and in the disposi- tion of the ground round Hydal Hall, there is a charming wildness that suits the character of tiie scene; and wherever art appears, it is witli graceful plainness, and meek subjection to nature. The taste by which a cascade in the pleasure-grounds, pouring under the arch of a rude rock amidst tlie green tint of woods, is shown through a darkened garden-house, and therefore willi all the effect which the opposition of light and shade can give, is even noi; too artificial, so admirably is the intent accomplished of making all the light that is admitted fall upon the objects which are chiefly meant to be observed." A little above the Hall is Rydal Mount, the residence of William Wordsworth, esq. Such universal tribute is paid to the genius of this great man, that it is needless to multiply examples ; a native poet, "a lowly child of song," has, however, in a brief effusion, added his mite ot admiration : — * " Pilgrims will here resort in after days. And glowing kneel before thy rocky shrine, In honour of thy poet's deathless lays." It cannot be considered irrelevant to the purposes of this work, if we direct attention to the comparatively unknown, and self-instructed writer, from w bom we have just quoted. • Mr. George Ik-ll, of I'cnrilb. 3 C 194 PICTURESQUE ILLUSTRATIONS OF WESTMORLAND, His poems, of which we have been favoured with a copy, certainly betray faults which more extensive reading and a more judicious selection of images and modes of expression alone can correct ; but they also contain beautiful thoughts happily expressed, and this opinion will be justified by the following extract from "The Dark Cloud," the only specimen that space permits us at present to offer. " Serenely from the west, a dark cloud sailed Alont; the waveless ocean of the sky, Halo'd with a gorgeous fringe of golden dye; I saw the heavenly vessel when it hail'd The bright full moon, obscured its majesty. Then voyaged away with wonted dignity." Returning to our view : the eye traverses the beautiful demesnes of Rydal Hall, and is thence led to the lake, on one side of which a few ancient trees decorate the banks, and, on the other, hoary rocks present themselves, with woods vegetating from the clefts and iissures in their sides. The lake itself, with a calm surface, ornamented by two small islands, " Lies like a sleeping child, too blest to wake." The projecting eminences form a strait connecting Rydal Water with the lake of Grasmere, lying in the vale of that name, amidst beautiful meadows and enclosures, and sheltered by surrounding mountains. Near the centre of this lake rises a small green island with an out-house or barn upon it, to which Mr. Wordsworth poetically alludes : — '' Thou seest a homely pile, yet to these walls The heifer comes in the snow storm, and here The uew-dropp'd Iamb finds shelter from the wind ; And hither does one poet sometimes row His pinnace." The mountains of Silver How and Langdale Pikes are included in the range forming the back ground of the view. 1 WASDALE HALL,— CUMBERLAND, THE SEAT OF STANSFELD RAWSON, ESQ. Wasdale Hall, the beautiful rural seat of Stansfeld Rawson, Esq., is situated at the foot of Wastwater, in a delightfully picturesque and romantic situation. Having referred to this unique erection at page 134, we have little to add in the way of description, that is not superseded by tiie view herewith given. The artist has chosen his point with much judgment, and connected with the building the most beautiful features in the scenery of the neighbourhood. Here we may be allowed to remark on the good taste which induced tiie proprietor to adopt so unpretending and unobtrusive a character in the erection ; it harmonizes well with surrounding objects, and imparts an additional beauty to the scene ; wliile itself derives an interest from the assemblage of picturesque magnificence in its vicinity. "WASBAILiE 1HA3L: fti ^'% CUMBERLAND, DURHAM, AND NORTHUMBERLAND. igj, WASTWATER,— CUMBERLAND. The most picturesque route to the lake of Wastwater is tliat from Borrowdale. As the tourist advances, the valley becomes more contracted, and the way is progressively more rugged. Ascending to the head of Borrowdale, he continues his journey tlirough narrow winding paths, between rocks and precipices, down which pours a roaring torrent, that, after flowing for some miles, passes through the village of Grange, and becomes the main feeder of Lake Derwent. Crossing an alpine bridge of one arch, the tourist addresses himself to the laborious ascent of Sty Head, a steep and precipitous crag, from which the eye looks down with terror, and whence is discovered a grand view of Skiddaw and Saddleback. The scenery in this neighbourhood is calculated to inspire emotions of the most awful kind ; but, after reaching the brow on the opposite side of Sty Head, a most delightful prospect is opened to the eye. The river Wasdale is seen falling from the adjacent mountains ; at the bottom are the dale and village of Wasdale, and on every side rise mountains of stupendous height. The mind revels in the beautiful and extensive scenery here displayed ; but every other feeling is nearly lost in an over- powering sensation of danger, on beholding the path by which a descent must be made into the vale. Above appear tremendous mountains, whose bases seem almost to meet ; and below is a precipice, nearly interminable to the eye, along which winds the narrow and steep path whence a single false step would precipitate the traveller into the fearful chasm beneath. On approaching the vale, the road becomes wider and less perpen- dicular. The illustrative view supposes the tourist to have visited Wasdale by the route above described, and to have reached a point in the lake overlooking Nether or Lower Wasdale, and commanding an impressive view of the mountains at the foot of Wastwater. On the left, in the engraving, is seen the debris of the Screes, a very high ridge of mountains extending along the southern shore of the lake ; the loose rocks on mIiIcIi are in ahnost constant motion, falling in showers into the water. HULNE ABBEY, ALNWICK PARK— NORTHUMBERLAND. Hulne Abbey stands in a woody and delightful solitude, at the distance of about three miles from Alnwick. This structure, now an assemblage of venerable ivy-clad ruins, was the first monastery of Carmelite friars established in England. The following particulars are recorded of its foundation. Amongst the English barons who went to the holy wars, in the reign of Henry Ml., were William de Vesey, Lord .\lnwick, and Uichard Grey, two eminent chieftains in the Christian army. Attracted by curiosity, or devotional feeling, they visited the monks of mount Cari.iel, and there unexpectedly found a countryman of their own, named Ralph Fresborn, 196 PICTURESQUE ILLUSTRATIONS OF WESTMORLAND, a Xorthumbiiau gentleman, m ho had signalized himself in a former crusade, and, in con- sequence of a vow, had taken upon him the monastic profession in that solitude. Vesey and Grey, when about to return to England, impoiUined the superior of the Carmelites to permit their countryman to accompany them ; which request was at length granted, on condition that they would found a Carmelite monastery in their own country. Fresborn, mindful of the engagement he had made with his superior, began to look out for a conve- nient spot whereon to erect the new convent, and ultimately fixed upon the site of the present ruined Abbey, induced, it is said, by the great resemblance which the adjoining hill bore to mount Carmel in Palestine. Vesey granted thirteen acres of land in his " park of Hulne," for the building and its demesnes ; but the structure was erected at the sole expense of Fresborn, who completed the work in 1240, and became the first abbot. This religious foundation was warmly supported by the Percy family ; and at the dissolution, the annual revenues of the establishment were valued at £194. 7s., an income whicli in those days was equal to meet a princely expenditure. In the reign of queen Elizabeth, the building and grounds were purchased by Thomas, seventh earl of Northum- land. Some of the Abbey buildings are now the residence of persons intrusted with the care of the duke of Northumberlaiid's aviary ; other parts are decorated with plantations which render the ruins exceedingly picturesque in appearance. John Bale, the biographer, was a member of the Carmelite order, and lived in the solitude of Hulne Abbey. ENTRANCE TO ALNWICK CASTLE,— NORTHUMBERLAND. The approach to Alnwick castle retains much of the solemn grandeur of feudal times. The precaution of letting down the draw-bridges is no longer observed, and the once wide and deep moat is diverted from its bed ; but the walls continue to wear that aspect of strength and defiance which identifies the structure with a period far remote, and with manners and usages now obsolete. A striking effect is produced on entering through the dark and frowning gateway that leads from the town into the interior of the castle. The eye suddenly emerges into one of the most splendid scenes that can be imagined, and is presented at once with tlie great body of the inner castle, surrounded with noble semi- circular towers, adorned with figures, pinnacles, and battlements. The impression increases as the visitor proceeds successively through the large and massive towers leading to the second and third courts. The numerous figures distributed round the battlements represent men in the attitude of defence, armed with weapons peculiar to the age when they were executed. CUMBERLAND, DURHAM, AND NORTIIUMBEULAND. HiJ LONG SLEDDALE SLATE QUA KKY,— WESTMORLAND Long Sleddale township ;ind chapelry extends over a mountainous and picturesque district, six miles in length by three miles in breadth, and reaches southward from the lofty Harter Fell to Potter Fell, within a few miles north of Kendal. Tiiis vale is inter- sected by the Sprint rivulet, which runs parallel with the road by which tourists from Kendal approach the sublime mountain scenery round Hawes Water. On each side of the rivulet verdant fields rise in irregular swells, till the rocky declivities of the mountains preclude all cultivation except brushwood and coppices, which climb the steep banks, and in some places find support even in the craggy precipices, which here present their lofty and rugged fronts with much grandeur, having, in many places, beautiful cascades spouting and tumbling from their summits, and sometimes broken by gusts of wind into clouds of spray. Tlie extensive slate quarries are situated at Rangle Gill, near the head of the dale, and are famous both for the quality and quantity of fine blue slate which they yield. The slabs are conveyed from the q\iarries on the backs of ponies and asses, the roads being inaccessible to carts. In the description of Tiirang Crag Slate Quarry, at page 78, the reader will find some geological particulars applicable to the present subject. It is an object of no slight interest to the tourist, in these picturesque regions, to behold in the secret retirements of nature, where solitude would seem to rule with despotic sway, the hand of human industry labouring with patient toil, and the great work of civilization aided and accelerated. What vast intricacies of bumau ait Are daily trodden by laborious man ! In ocean, earlli, or air, tlicre's not a thing On which the eye of Genius halh not glanced, — On which the hand of Science halh not wrought Change beautiful or useful. From the caves Where Amphitrite and her nymphs have dwelt. In song and fable, from the first of days, The fearless diver plucks a roseate branch, Of bright vermilion tinge — pearls of rare worth — And richest gems, that long had lain conceal'd In that wide treasure-house, the boundless sea : Thence brought, the lapidary's skilful hand Forms of them ornamenta to grace the fair. 3 D 198 PICTURESQUE ILLUSTRATIONS OF WESTMORLAND, Id subterranean chambers, far beneath The surface of this earth, where never comes At morn, or eve, or at the noon-tide hour, One ray of sun-hght, — but eternal gloom, More desolate, and yet more awful made. By the red torch that feebly flickers there. — The anxious miner wears his life away • In constant searchings for the precious ore. Various are earth's treasures, — all amassed By Wisdom infinite, and nothing vain ! In all the secret paths and hidden ways Of nature, man hath walked ; with curious eye Beheld her workings great and manifold ; And, led by Science to the ample stores Profusely gathered in the earth's rich womb. He rends with powerful arm the products forth. For various purpose fitted and designed. BLEY-W.ATER TARN, FROM HIGH STREET MOUNTAIN,— WESTMORLAND. Bley- Water Tarn lies beneath a lofty crag of the saiiie name, forming part of the Mountain High Street. In its approach to the valley of Mardale, the stream from this tarn unites with that of Small Water Tarn, and both flow together northward to the lake of Haweswater. The artist has alluded in this view to the annual festivities which take place on the broad top of High Street. Horse-racing forms the principal feature in the sports, which derive no little additional zest from a copious supply of cakes and ale from the neigh- bouring villages. Ulverstone lies in the distance. WINDERMERE, ESTHWAITE WATER, AND AMBLESIDE, FROM RYDAL PARK,— WESTMORLAND. The present view, looking southward, exhibits a picturesque valley, lying between Rydal Park and the head of Windermere, and includes the whole extent of the lake last mentioned, with its mountain scenery, also a glance at Esthwaite Water. Ambleside is situated on the left side of the valley; having Wansfell Pike at a short distance on the east, and Loughrigg Fell a little to the west. The neat gothic chapel, erected here by public subscription in year 1812, forms a distinct but pleasing object in the engraving. -■^■4< CUMBERLAND, DURHAM, AND NORTHUMBERLAND. 199 Esthwaite Water, though lying beyond the prescribed boundaries of this publication — in Lancashire — is connected witli Winderniere, and consequently forms a portion of its picturesque scenery. Esthwaite Lake is situated about two miles west from Windermere Ferry, and has near its head the ancient little town of Hawkshead. It does not exceed two miles in length, by about half a mile in width ; and is much shallower than most other lakes. The margins are broken and relieved by projecting peninsuhis, fringed with trees and coppice wood, and cultivated at tiie sunnnits. Near the lu-ad of the lake is an island, containing about two perches of land, said to have been separated from the banks, and formerly to have floated about the surface of the water ; but for some years past it has remained stationary, and is now covered with shrubs. Tourists universally acknowledge the beauty of " the vale of Windermere," as seen from Rydal Park ; particularly " when, in a serene evening, tlie charms of this spot are rendered yet more delightful by the softened noises of distant waterfalls, which are rever- berated by the echoes in great variety." AMBLESIDE,— WESTMORLAND. The town of Ambleside stands on the side of a steep hill, and near the opening of a narrow glen whence rushes the torrent of Stockgill Force. The craggy heights of Lough- rigg Fell, the lower parts of wiiich are covered witii wood, and tiie extensive range of Fairfield, form a mountain fastness round this picturesque station. At page 85, the reader will find a topograpliical description of Ambleside. Id the remote periods of our history, the mountain districts were the last refuge of freedom, — the strong-hold wiiither the aboriginal possessors of the country retired, to avoid the yoke of the invader. In the present day, " the hill countrie" and the plain, the desart solitude and the crowded city — of this favoured land, are alike unawed by despotism and tyraimy; still, the stern magnificence of the scenery, associated with records of the past, compels us to view " the patriarchal hills" as the sacred haunts of liberty. O Liberty ! the hills are thine ! thy mountain homes are free ' There is no abject bondsmen here, to cringe and bow the knee ; A power, that mocks at human strenRtli, wrought here when time began ; .\nd Echo atill d"tli laugh to scorn the impotence of man. The mountain lifts its hoary head, and on its brow is set, Form'd from the cloud and wreathing mists, a glistering coronet. From lliunder-splintercd crags, behold with what resistless force The torrent rends its furious way, a giant in its course. 20() PICTURESQUE ILLUSTRATIONS OF WESTMORLAND, M'here is the sceptre that can awe, the look that dares defy Tlie cataract in its onward path— the rocks that cleave the sky ? Ye purple tyrants ! at whose nod the prostrate nations quake, List the response, ye feeble things, those mountain thrones can make : We have been in the days of old, we are before you now ; We shall be in the future times that ye can nerer know : Thousands of years are on our heads, and thousands yet to come, Ere in the wreck of Earth we sink, to bide the general doom. Ye insect rulers of a day ! what is your boasted power ? To fill the cup of sensual bliss, and fret your little hour : The 'scutcheon'd pull, the aisle's deep gloom, and outward signs of wo, Are the last tribute you can claim, or flattery bestow. We are Creation's elder-born, coeval with the sun. His young beams fell upon our heads, when first his course begun ; One hand alone can cast us down, and when the time has come, No thing of earth will live, to scorn or desecrate our tomb. CALDER ABBEY,— CUMBERLAND. On the northern banks of the river Calder, in the deeply secluded vale through which its waters flow from the bleak mountains of Cald-fell, stand the beautiful ruins of Calder Abbey, in the immediate vicinity of the stately mansion to which they give name. This monastery was founded in the year 1134, by Randulph de Meschiens, for a colony of Cistercian monks, detached from the Abbey of Furness in Lancashire. It subsequently was enriched with many valuable endowments, and continued to hold a pre-eminent place in ecclesiastical foundations up to the period of the dissolution, when Henry the Eighth by royal grant transferred " to Thomas Leigh and his heirs, the demesne and site of the late Abbey, or manor of Calder, and the church, steeple, and church-yard thereof, and all messuages, lands, houses, gardens, orchards, waters, and mills, as well within as nigh unto the site and precinct of the said monastery; to hold the same of the king in capife, by the tenth part of a knight's fee, and a yearly rent of twenty-seven pounds." The estate and magnificent remains ultimately descended to J. T. Senhouse, Esq. who erected an elegant mansion in the neighbourhood of the monastic ruins, which edifice is now the seat of Thomas Hewin, esq. CUMBERLAND, DURHAM, AND NORTHUMBERLAND. 201 The ruined Abbey, as well as the modern structure, is sheltered by majestic forest trees, which rise from the skirts of level meadows to the tops of the circumscribing hills that bound the vale of Calder. The most striking object in the ruins is the square tower of tlie abbey church, supported by pointed arches, sustained on four finely clustered columns of excellent workmanship, about twenty-four feet in height, having tlie capitals, whence the arches spring, ornamented with a roll. The church was but small, the width of the chancel being only twenty-five feet, and that of the transept no more than twenty-two. The colonnade has five circular arches, supported by clustered pillars, and profusely covered with ivy. The remains of a fasikt still exist above the arches, and formerly supported the roof of the building. The upper cliambers shew a range of eight windows to the west, and seven to the east; and on the ground-floor are the remains of three which have belonged to a small cloister. Against the walls are fragments of various sepulchral figures, which, from the mutilated sculptures and the devices on the shields, would seem to have belonged to the tombs of eminent persons. Hutchinson, in his description of Calder Abbey, says, witii much poetical feeling, that these solemn ruins appear " to stand mourning in their sacred solitude, concealing wo in the secluded valley, and bending to the adversity of ages; like the image of INlelancholy looking down on the tomb of interred horrors and wasted ornaments." Spirit of the past, appear ! On the zephyr'3 unseen wing, Ccme to me, aerial thing : Spirit! who art ling'ring here, Tales of other times reveal ; Say what does the past conceal ? Approach nic near ! Why should'st thou seek from the past to restore A record of frailty existing no more ? Why look back through time, and more evidence briug To prove all earth's brightness a perishing thing? The dew sheds its pearls in the cup of the flower, Day dawns on its beauty, the bloom of an hour! Ere the sun gocth down, it declinelh its head: Wouldst thou ask where its colours and perfume have lied '. Then wherefore inquire of the times that are gone, Ere niin bad chosen this fane for his throne? Thou scest the desolate temple, and they Who knelt at the shrine have departed away. All thou beholdest must come to an end, The ocean, earth, sky, in wide ruin will blend ; M'hen the morning no longer the sun can restore, And the paths of his brightness shall know him no more. 3 E 202 PICTURESQUE ILLUSTRATIONS OF WESTMORLAND, EGREMONT FROM THE RAVENGLASS ROAD,— CUMBERLAND. Egremont is a neat and small market town, principally consisting of one wide street, seated on the banks of the river Ehen, afew miles south-east from Whitehaven, and within two miles and a half west from the Irish sea. Its origin appears to be connected with that of the castle, which was erected here, near the commencement of the twelfth century, by William, brother to Ranulph de Meschiens. Egremont was anciently a borough, and enjoyed the privilege of returning members to parliament, but was disfranchised on the petition of the burgesses themselves, who deemed their representatives in the senate (and perhaps with much justice) more cosily than valuable. The inhabitants were invested with many privileges, under charters granted by the immediate successors of William de Meschiens, and were also enjoined the performance of many servile duties that distinguished the ages of feudal tyranny. The charter granted by Richard Lucy, who possessed the barony about the time of king John, is still extant, and displays fearfully the abject state of vassalage in which the people then lived. The burgesses were compelled to find armed men for the defence of the castle forty days at their own charge. They were bound to furnish aids for the redemption of tlie lord and his heir from captivity ; for the knighthood of one of his sons ; and for the marriage of one daughter. They were to find him twelve men for his military array, to hold watch and ward ; and were forbidden to enter the forest of Ennerdale with bow and arrow, or with a dog, unless one foot had been cut off to disable it from pursuing the game. Every burgess who kept a plough was compelled to till the lord's ground one day in the year, and likewise provide a man to reap and mow in autumn. So much for tlie olden time ! The ancient custom of electing a chief magistrate is preserved here ; and the town continues to be governed by a sergeant and a jury. From old records it would appear, that dyers, weavers, and fullers were the only artisans formerly in Egremont ; but at the present day, there are manufactories of check, linen, canvas, sail-cloth, and paper, and also for tanning and dressing leather. Extensive iron-stone mines exist in the neighbourhood. Amongst the recent improvements, is the erection of a new bridge over the Ehen river. A market is held weekly on Saturday, and there are three annual fairs. The parish clmrch, dedicated to St. Mary, is a neat structure, with a short tower ; presenting in the interior a neat and handsome appearance. A Methodist chapel was erected in 1821. A National School for gratuitous education, has been founded, and continues to be supported by voluntary contributions. The castle seems to have been of great strength, but not very extensive ; its ruins occupy an eminence on the west side of the town. Tlie approach and principal entrance CUMBERLAND, DUIIUAM, AND NORTHUMBERLAND. 203 was from the south, where a draw-bridge secured the passage over a deep moat that surrounded the fortress, and was originally walled on both sides, having a rampart of earth outward. The gate-way is vaulted with semicircular arches, and defended by a strong tower, which appears to be the most ancient part of the fabric. The outward wall formerly enclosed an area of a square form, but is now wholly decayed, and has only a postern on the east side remaining. Westward from the area, is an ascent to three narrow gates, standing in a line, and close together ; these appear to have communicated with the outworks, and have each been defended by a portcullis. Beyond the gates is a lofty artificial mount, wherein stood an ancient circular tower, the western side was levelled some years ago : the height of the mount is seventy-eight feet perpendicular above the moat. The construction of some of the walls is singular ; they are built with large thin stones, placed in an inclining position, the courses lie different ways, and the whole has been cemented together with lime and pebbles. There is a traditional story current here, of a lady of the Lucy family, who, on an evening walk near the castle, was devoured by a wolf. A similar story is told of the hill of IVotohank, a romantic acclivity in the manor of Beckermont, in this neighbourhood. The tale relates, that " a lord of Beckermont, with his lady and servants, was one time hunting the wolf; during the chase, the lady was missing, and, after a long and painful search, her body was found lying on this hill or bank, mangled by a wolf, who was in the very act of ravenously tearing it to pieces, The sorrow of the liusband in the first transports of his grief, Mas expressed by the words—' Wo to this bank !' whence the hill obtained the name of Wotobank. Mrs. Cowley adopted this legend for the subject of her poem, " Edwina." " 'Wa (0 (Ate, bank I Uie attendants echoed round, And pityinu slieplierds caught the grief-fraught sound. Thus to this hour, through every changing age, Througli every year's still ever-varying stage, The name remains, and Wn-lo-havi is seen From every mountaiu bleak, and valley green. Dim Skiddaw views it from his monstrous height, And eagles mark it in their dizzy flight. " Not rocks, and cataracts, and alps ulone, Point out the spot, and make \\& sorrows know n ; For faithful lads ne'er pass, nor tender maid, But tile soft rite of tears is duly paid : Each can the story to the traveller tell, And on the sad disaster pitying dwell." " The castle and town of Egrcmont, from many points of the river Elien, and tlie adjacent lands, display some pleasing assemblages of the picturesiiue ; and the road hence to Ennerdale lake is easy, and beautifully diversified with the bold and chaste features of nature." 204 PICTURESQUE ILLUSTRATIONS OF WESTMORLAND, WINDERMERE, ESTHWAITE, AND CONISTON LAKES, FROM THE TOP OF LOUGHRIGG FELL,— WESTMORLAND. This large engraving presents a most interesting and extensive prospect of lake and mountain scenery, including the lakes of Windermere, Esthwaite, and Coniston, seen from the top of Loughrigg Fell. To avoid repetitions in the descriptive portion of our work, we refer the reader, for copious particulars respecting Lake Windermere, to pages 14, 30, and 169. Coniston Mere, or Thurston Lake, as it is sometimes called, is about six miles in length from north to south, and three-quarters of a mile at its greatest breadth from east to west. Its greatest depth is twenty-seven fathoms. The shores are beautifully indented, and several bays appear in succession. Both sides of the lake are marked with coppices, interspersed with verdant meadows, and with patches of rocky surface ; above which, the mountains, clothed with verdure, and rendered picturesque by fragments of rock, gradually elevate themselves. A pleasant road winds along the side of the lake, sometimes through thick grores and low woods, which scarcely admit a sight of the water ; at other times, over naked tracts, commanding a full prospect of the lake. At the foot of a mountain, on the west side of the water, stands the village of Coniston, pleasantly situated ; and in its vicinity are the delightful residences of Waterhead and Coniston Hall. Above the verdant banks, which are sparingly studded with villages, seats, and cottages, the dark and rocky steeps ascend to an alpine height, and encircle the head of the lake. Mrs. Ratcliffe describes, in very glowing terms, the beauties of Coniston Water : — "This lake appeared to us one of the most charming we had seen. From the sublime mountains which bend round its head, the heights on either side decline towards the south into waving hills, that form its shores, and often stretch in long sweeping points into the water, generally covered with tufted wood, but sometimes with the tender verdure of pasturage. The tops of these woods were just embrowned with autumn, and contrasted well with other slopes, rough and heathy, that rose above, or fell beside them to the water's brink, and added force to the colouring which the reddish tints of decaying fern, the purple bloom of heath, and the bright golden gleams of broom, spread over these elegant banks. Their hues, the graceful undulation of the marginal hills and bays, the richness of the woods, the solemnity of the northern fells, and the deep repose that pervades the scene, where only now and then a white cottage or a farm lurks among the trees, are circumstances which render Thurston Lake one of, the most interesting, and perhaps the most beautiful, of any in the country." We have alluded to Esthwaite Water in a preceding description. CUMBERLAND, DURHAM, AND NORTHUMBERLAND. 205 HAYSWATER, FROM THE JOP OF HIGH STREET MOINTAIN, WESTMORLAND. Hayswater Tarn, in the environs of lake Ullswater, is more extensive than most of the other tarns, and is much frequented hy trout anglers. It lies under the north-west side of High Street. The stream from this elevated lake passes Low Hartshope, and, uniting with the waters from the diminutive Brother Water, discharges itself into lake Ullswater. This mountain retirement is illustrative of a passage in the "Excursion :"— " Mauy are the notes Which in his tuneful course the wind dravis forth From rocks, woods, caverns, heaths, and dashing shores ; And well those lofty brethren bear their part In the wild concert— chiefly when the storm Rides high ; tlitn all the upper air they fill With roaring sound, that ceases not to flow, Like smoke, along the level of the blast In mighty current ; theirs, too, is the song Of stream and headlong flood that seldom fails ; And, in the grim and breathless hour of noon, MethinUs that I have licard them echo back The thunder's greeting ; nor have nature's laws Left them ungifted with a power to yield Music of finer frame ; a harmony, So do I call it, though it be the land Of silence, though there be no voice : the clouds. The mist, the shadows, light of golden suns, Motions of moonlight, all come thither, touch. And have an answer— thither come, and shape, A language not unwelcome to sick hearts And idle spirits ; there the sun himself, At the calm hour of summer's longest day. Rests his substantial orb ; l)ptween those heights And on the top of cither pinnacle. More keenly than elsewhere in night's blua vault, Sparkle the stars, as of their station proud. Thoughts are not busier in the mind of man Than the mute agents stirring there." 3 F 206 PICTURESQUE ILLUSTRATIONS OF WESTMORLAND, GRISDALE, NEAR ULLSWATER,— WESTMORLAND. Grisilale is a portion of the valley of Patterdale, lying about half-a-mile north of the chapel, and extends westward three miles to the confines of Cumberland. Grisdale tarn, which takes its name from the dale, is situate at the junction of the three mountains, Helvellyn, Seatsandal, and Fairfield. Grisdale Pike is a lofty mountain, rising to an apex, or point, two thousand five hundred and eighty feet in height. From this elevation fine prospects are obtained of the vale of Keswick to the east ; and over a considerable part of Cumberland, with the sea, the Isle of Man, and the mountains of Galloway to the west and north. Grisdale is enclosed, at the upper end, by the mountains Helvellyn and Fairfield. ST. NICHOLAS' CHURCH, FROM MIDDLE STREET, NEWCASTLE- UPON-TYNE. The church of St. Nicholas, at Newcastle, is an ancient and beautiful edifice, situated in the parish to which it gives name; and was founded in the year 1091 by Osmund, bishop of Salisbury and earl of Dorset, a follower of William the Conqueror. This ecclesiastical structure was given by the first Henry to the church of Carlisle, and it still remains in the patronage of that see. The privileges of the church were greatly abridged during the prelacy of bishop Farnham. Henry the Eighth granted a moiety of the rectory of Newcastle-upon-Tyne to the dean and chapter of Carlisle, enjoining the payment of eight pounds per annum to the bishop of Durham. The original edifice was destroyed by fire in 121G, and a new erection completed in 1359, since which period considerable alterations have been made, and frequent reparations been effected. It is now a magnificent and imposing structure, situated on the top of a commanding eminence, which rises somewhat precipitately from the river nearly to the centre of the town. In 1783, a subscription was opened for the purpose of effecting such alterations in the plan of the building as should give it the air and character of a cathedral church. The design succeeded : and the chancel was thrown open, the communion table removed under the great east window, all the erections at the west end of the church cleared away, and the space devoted to the purposes of sepulture. A wooden screen was also placed at the entrance to the choir. •/M ^ ft 'Ht-ir JUR.- IMHWP I I ' ?«^JS?L--rfr^-. .-■_, CUMBERLAND, DURHAM, AND NORTHUMBERLAND. 207 The steeple of this church, which is considered by architects and men of taste to be its most admirable feature, is a very ingenious and elegant specimen of art. It rises to the height of sixty-four yard^ ; and consists of thirteen richly ornamented pinnacles, and two massive stone-arches, supporting a large and beautiful lantern surmounted with a tall spire. This magnificent piece of architecture is constructed upon the original tower, which appears to have formerly been terminated by a battlement of open stone-work. Its erection is ascribed by some authors to David king of Scotland, but the character of the structure refers to the period of Henry the Sixth. Frequent repairs have been effected by the corporation, who have from time immemorial been charged with this expense. The tower contains a peal of eight musical bells, and an excellent clock ; the latter, which has chimes connected with it, was completed by Mr. Walker in 1~61. " May ne'er That tme succession fail of English hearts, That can perceive, not less than heretofore Our ancestors did feelingly perceive, M'hat in these holy structures doth exist Of ornamental interest, and the charm Of pious sentiment diffused afar, And human charity, and social love. Thus never shall the indignities of time Approach their reverend graces unopposed ; Nor shall the elements be free to hurt Their fair proportions ; nor the blinder rage Of bigot zeal madly to overturn." There is a tradition, that during the siege of Newcastle in the year 1C4 1, the Scottish general threatened to demolish the steeple of this church, unless the keys of the town were immediately surrendered to him. The mayor, on hearing this, immediately ordered the most distinguished individuals amongst the Scottish prisoners to be taken to the top of the tower, and then replied to the threat of the besieger, " Our enemies shall either preserve the steeple, or be buried in its ruins." This reply had the desired effect. A valuable library is attached to the church of St. Nicholas, and occupies a handsome fabric over the vestry built for the purpose, by Sir William Blackett, in l/.'U. Middle-street is a narrow but picturesque avenue, which unites with the Old iUilchers' Market, and at this point of junction it takes the name of Union-street. 208 PICTURESQUE ILLUSTRATIONS OF WESTMORLAND, THE BLACK GATE, NEWCASTLE-UPON-TYNE, NORTHUMBERLAND. The Black Gate, at Newcastle, is the only remains of the outer line of circumvallation to the castle. For a general history and description of the building, the reader is referred back to page 31. This gate was erected by the government in the year 1248, and during the reign of Henry III., at the cost of five hundred and fifteen pounds. Its arch, extending to the gloomy length of thirty-six feet, is low and narrow, and flanked by two circular towers. Besides its iron doors, it formerly had two portcullises and a drawbridge within and without. The eastern tower is still very perfect towards its base ; but the rest of the structure is enclosed within masses of building, and its original character disguised by conversion into dwelling-houses. The inner wall of the castle extended from the Black Gate round the great tower, and again joined the outer wall north of Bailey Gate. The strength of the outer works of the castle is evidenced by the resistance it offered to the entrance of the Scotch army in 1644. By effecting some few repairs, and by planting ordnance on the top of the tower, it was enabled, under the gallant Sir John Marley, then mayor of Newcastle, to hold out several days after the town had surrendered to the Scots. AXWELL PARK,— DURHAM. Axwell Park, in the township of Winlaton, six miles west by south of Newcastle, is the seat of Sir T. Clavering, baronet. Serlo de Burgh, the ancestor of the Claverings, came into England with the Conqueror ; and Edward I. conferred upon his descendants the name of Clavering, from their barony in Essex. They were first seated here in Queen Elizabeth's reign ; and their old mansion, called JFTiite House, stood half a mile west of the present residence. This mansion is an elegant modern building, occupying a pleasant and elevated site, and surrounded by grounds beautifully diversified by irregular swells, and judiciously embellished with plantations of forest trees. The east front commands a rich prospect of the Tyne, and the busy towns of Newcastle and Gateshead : the view from the south front of the woodlands of Gibside and the adjacent country, is also exceedingly beautiful. usni^e?;:^'-' , CUMBERLAND, DURHAM, AND NORTHUMBERLAND '209 GIBSIDE, THE SEAT OF THE COUNTESS DOWAGER STKATHMORE, DURHAM. Gibside, an extensive domain, the seat of the Countess Dowager of Strathmore, and of her son, John Bowes, esq., member of parliament for the south division of the county of Durham, is situated in the midst of a delightful park, five miles and a lialf soutli-west of Newcastle. The mansion occupies a sequestered site on the southern bank of the Derwent, and is approached through a wood of venerable oaks. It is an ancient structure, in the style that prevailed in tiie seventeenth century. At the end of a most beautiful terrace, nearly in front of the house, stands an elegant chapel, which was built in 1812 by the late Earl Strathmore, and ornamented with a portico and highly-embellished dome. At the other extremity of the terrace rises a fine Ionic column of stone, one hundred and forty feet in height, surmounted by a colossal figure of Liberty, and embosomed in an extensive wood. In another part of the grounds, the bancjueting-house, a gotliic structure oruamented with pinnacles, terminates a spacious avenue. Although nature, with a lavish and luxuriant hand, has adorned this scene with some of her richest gifts, yet art has bestowed a number of embcllisiimcnts; and, besides the buildings already mentioned, the green-house, bath, and otiier edifices, are finished with great taste, and the sylvan beauties that surround them are not surpassed in any part of the country. The interior of the building is ornamented with numerous family portraits and some good paintings. Of the latter, the principal one is a fine picture of Rubens' wife. Various beautiful views occur in different parts of the grounds, and particularly from a walk near the back of the house, on the brink of a steep descent, whence the Derwent is seen flowing through a deep vale, enclosed on the north by hanging woods ; but on the south bounded by cultivated lands, rising from the river in irregular swells. The Park is about four miles in circumference. The approach to the house is l)y a serpentine road, nearly a mile in length, winding through the oak forest, sometimes extending along the brink of a deep valley, at others descending on the easy inclination of an eminence. In 138.5, Gibside was the estate of the Merleys ; and in the reign of Henry VIII. Roger Hlackiston, esq. and his wife Elizabeth, daughter and heiress of Richard Merley, iiad livery of it : about the end of the seventeenth century. Sir William Rowes acquired it by marriage with the heiress of Sir William Hlackiston, and from him it descended to John Lyon, Earl of Strathmore, who took the name of Bowes. 3 G 210 PICTURESQUE ILLUSTRATIONS OF WESTMORLAND, BASSENTHWAITE LAKE, LOOKING TOWARDS THE SOUTH, CUMBERLAND. Bassenthwaite Lake, or, as it is sometimes called, Broad Water, is nearly four miles north of Derwent- Water, and is formed by the river Dervvent, which flows in a serpentine form througli a fine extensive vale. " The river nobly foams and 6ows, The charm of this enchanted ground, And all its thousand turns disclose Some fresher beauty varyinu; round ; The haughtiest breast its wish might bound, Through life to dwell delighted here." This lake is said to be four miles and a half in length ; at its northern extremity it is nearly a mile in breadth ; but, lower down, it decreases to little more than a quarter of a mile. On the east side is the beautiful and extensive vale of Bassenthwaite, deeply indented with three bays, behind which the miglity Skiddaw rears its loftj' head. Opposite, on the west, is a range of high mountains, which fall abruptly to the water's edge, leaving only two or three small spots on which cultivation can prevail. These declivities are called Withop Brows, and are partly rocky, and partly covered with thick woods which consist chiefly of young oaks growing out of old stems. To view the beauties of the lake, the tourist should proceed along the eastern margin to Armathwaite. A road to the left leads to Bradness, a round verdant hill, which projects considerably into the water, and, with the assistance of two other promontories, forms a spacious bay, having Rowness on the south and Scarness on the north. From the summit of this hill, you have a good general view of the lake, and of the three beautiful bays which indent its eastern shore, forming a fine contrast with the lofty hills and hanging woods on the opposite side. After regaining the road, you recede rather farther from the water, and proceed towards Ousebridge, by way of Bassenthwaite Hall. On an elevated part of this road, to the north of the village, is another fine view of the lake, tlie north side of Skiddaw, the opposite shore, and tlie vales of Embleton and Iscl. Farther on, you reach Armathwaite, a small but finely-situated seat, at the head of a gentle slope, and commanding, through a grove of trees, a grand view of the lake. Here you see the lowest bay in all its beauty : the lake of Bassenthwaite seems to retire beyond the promontory of Scarness, and the hanging woods of Withop on the opposite side add considerably to the scene. A pleasant road leads to Ousebridge, where is a good iini, fronting the lake, and connnanding some variegated prospects. Here the lake, without any previous contraction, or the least appearance of an outlet, pours forth its waters beneath a stone bridge of three arches ; *-! rf-" _ CUMBERLAND, DURHAM, AND NORTHUMBERLAND. 211 and, resuming once more the name of a river, the Derwent, after a winding course through several verdant valleys, at length falls into the sea near Workington. Returning to Keswick, along the western shores, the ride is delightful ; especially in the evening, and whilst the water is still gilded by the radiance of the sun. At such a time, when the lake is one vast expanse of crystall mirror, the mountain shadows are softened into a mild blue tint, which sweeps over the half surface, and the other half receives the impression of every radiant form that glows around. At Berk Witiiop the view of the lake is full and pleasing, the water beautifully expands to the eye, having its outlet concealed by Castle How, a circular peninsula crowned with wood, on which appear the vestiges of a castle or fortress. Lord Byron makes beautiful allusion, in his Childe Harold, to the dilapidated remains of castellated structures : " They stand, as stands a lofty niiiul, Worn, but unstooping to tlie baser crowd, All tenantless, save to the crannying wind, Or holding dark communion with the cloud. There was a day when they were young and proud. Banners on high, and battles pass'd below ; But tJiey who fouglit are in a bloody shroud, And those which waved arc shredless dust ere now. And the bleak battlements shall bear no future blow." On the Berk Withop side of the castle, the shore is lined with a range of rocks, half concealed in low wood, over whicli rise Withop Brows. Tiie opposite shore is iiulcnted with beautiful bays, formed by the promontories of Scarness, Bowness, and Bradness. Hence is seen, in a pleasing point of view, a part of the vale of Bassenthwaite, interspersed with its clmrch and two or three white houses. UUock, a gloomy mountain covered with heath, forms the back-ground of tiiis picture ; and Skiddaw appears in all its preeminence, towering above the neighbouring hills iii majestic grandeur, and lifts its summit to the skies. On all sides the scenery is various, and the whole of it beautifully picturesque. As you approach Keswick, Skiddaw appears to great advantage ; Crosthwaite church and vicarage are successively seen ; and between these and the town, on the left, is tiie viUa Lucretilis of the Poet Laurcat. The vale of Bassenthwaite extends from the foot of Skiddaw to Ousebridge ; it is variegated with many beautiful objects, both of art and nature, and, in general, is a rich and fertile tract of land. 'i1ie lake, whicii adds so much to its beauty, is nearly as trans- parent as that of Derwent, and abounds with a great variety of fish and water-fowl. 212 PICTURESQUE ILLUSTRATIONS OF WESTMORLAND, KESWICK, AND DERWENTWATER AND BASSENTHWAITE LAKES, FROM THE KENDAL ROAD,— CUMBERLAND. This view of Keswick, taken from the Kendal Road, presents a striking assemblage of picturesque objects, including the lakes of Derwent Water and Bassenthwaite Water, with the mountainous acclivities of Withop Brows in the back-ground. " The lofty rocks At night's approach bring down the unclouded sky, To rest upon their circumambient walls ; A temple framing of dimensions vast And jet not too enormous for the sound Of human anthems, — choral song, or burst Sublime of instrumental harmony, To glorify the Eternal ! What if these Did never break the stillness that prevails Here, if the solemn nightingale be mute. And the soft woodlark here did never chant His vespers ; Nature fails not to provide Impulse and utterance. The whispering air Sends inspiration from the shadowy heights And blind recesses of the cavern'd rocks. The little rills and waters numberless, Inaudible by daylight, blend their notes With the loud streams ; and often, at the hour When issue forth the first pale stars, is heard Within the circuit of yon fabric huge, One voice, the solitary raven, flying Athwart the concave of the dark-blue dome, Unseen, perchance above the power of sight — An iron knell ! with echoes from afar. Faint — and still fainter — as the cry with which The wanderer accompanies her flight Through the calm region, fades upon the ear. Diminishing by distance till it seemed To expire."' n -T-:^ '~%. \ j:.?^ "Hi CUMBERLAND, DUUHAM, AND NORTHUMBEULiVND. 213 CLARE-MOSS,— WESTMORLAND. This romantic locality is situate at the extreme end of Little Langdale ; and the present view looks in the direction of Bley Tarn and Langdale Pikes. The spot is surrounded by lofty mountains and crags ; that on the left hand, assuming a prominent character in the engraving, is called Blackrigg. At the proper season of the year, the mountain shepherds bring hitlier tlieir fleecy cliarge to wash them, a customary prelude to the siiearing. " In une dilTusive band, They drive the troubled flocks, by many a dog CompeU'd, to where the mazy running brook Forms the deep pool ; this bank abrupt and high, And that fair swelling in a pebbled shore. Urged to the giddy brink, much is the toil, The clamour much, of men, and boys, and dogs, Ere the soft fearful people to tiic flood Commit their woolly sides. And oft the swain, On some impatient seizing, hurls them in : Embolden'd then, nor hesitating more, Fast, fast, they plunge amid the Hashing wave. And, panting, labour to the farthest shore : Repeated this, till deep the well-washed fleece Has drunk the flood, and from his lively haunt The trout is banished by the sordid stream ; Heavy, and dripping to the breezy brow. Slow move the harmless race ; where, as they spread Their swelling treasures to the sunny ray, Inly disturb'd, and wondering what this wild Outrageous tumult means, their loud iiimplaints The country fill : and, toss'd from rock to rock. Incessant bleatings run around the hills." Blackrigg is a place of much danger both to the sheep and the shepherds, when, as is fretjuently the case, the straying herd wander beyond the possibility of retreat or fartlier 3H 214 PICTURESQUE ILLUSTRATIONS OF WESTMORLAND, advance. They are then said to be " crag-fast;" and inthis situation they are often starved to death before the herdsman discovers them, or are dashed to pieces in a desperate effort to escape. Sometimes the shepherds venture on a perilous attempt to effect their res- cue : they suffer themselves to be lowered by ropes from tiie summit of the crags, into the rocky cavern wherein the sheep have strayed or fallen ; and occasionally have to swing themselves into the crevices of the rocks. If they are fortunate enough to obtain a hold of the wanderer, they have then to combat its struggles, while they return with it in their arms by the same dangerous route. Wordsworth has introduced into the " Excursion" an incidental allusion to the casualty just mentioned. " List!— 1 heard, From yon huge breast of rock, a solemn bleat ; Sent forth as if it were the mountain's voice, As if the visible mountain made the crj'. Again ! — the effect upon the soul was such As now expressed ; for, from the mountain's heart The solemn bleat appeared to come ; there was No other — and the region all around Stood silent, empty of all shape of life. — It was a lamb-:-left somewhere to itself, The plaintive spirit of the solitude." BURNSHEAD HALL,— WESTMORLAND. Burnshead, more usually called Burneside, is a village standing on both sides of the Kent river, at the distance of two miles, north by west, from Kendal. The chapel is a handsome gothic structure, on the west side of the river, and was rebuilt in the year 1823, at a cost of £1,300. The manor formerly belonged to the ancient family of Burnshead, with whose heiress it passed to the Belliiighams, and thence to the Braithwaites, who sold it out of their possession. The hall, which is a fine old ruin, is occupied by a farmer. In 16i)2, this structure consisted of " a court with a lodge and battlements, through which was the ascent into the hall." Before the court was a large pond on each side of the passage to the gate ; and on either side a small island, with a tree planted in the midst ; and in the windows of the gallery and dining-room were the Braithwaites' arms, with impalings of the several families to which they were related." li^iL^Jitli. MOi^S, FKOMt ILIIT! ■'ffilQ)&L'-).v y^M CUMBERLAND, DURHAM, AND NORTHUMBEllLAND. 215 VIEW FROM LANGDALE PIKES, LOOKING EAST,— WESTMORLAND. An extensive and astonishing view of mountain scenery is obtained from the summit of the Pikes, looking in an easterly direction. The mountains of Fairfield, High Street, Hill Bell, Harter Fell, Potter Fell, and others, are here brought into view together, and form, with the lakes and tarns which diversify the scene, the most magnificent prospect on which the eye can rest. Language is unequal to the task of describing the extensive scope of vision enjoyed from the summit of a mountain, or the splendid combination of sublime and pleasing objects at once presented to the eye. The following poetical extract embodies more of the spiritue/, than, perhaps, any other we could have selected. " O 'tis an unimazinable siglit ! Clouds, mists, streams, watery rocks, and emerald turf. Clouds of all tincture, rocks and sapphire sky, Confused, commingled, mutually Lnllamed, Molten together, and composing thus, Each lost in each, that marvellous array Of temple, palace, citadel, and huge Fantastic pomp of structure without neune, In fleecy folds voluminous, enwrapp'd Right in the midst where interspace appeared Of open court, an object like a throne Beneath a sliining canopy of state Stood fixed ; and fixed resemblances were seen To implements of ordinary use. But vast in size, in substance glorified ; Such as by Hebrew prophets were beheld In vision — forms uncouth of mightiest power For admiration and mysterious awe." When the mind has in some degree regained its composure, and is enabled to arrange and discriminate objects, the mountain vision will disclose an appearance — " As of a mighty city — boldly say A wilderness of building, sinking far And self-withdrawn into a wondrous depth, Far sinking into splendour, without end ! Fabric it seems of diamond and of gold. With alabaster domes and silver spires; And blazing terrace upon terrace high Uplifted : here, serene pavilions bright. In avenues disposed ; there, towers begirt With battlements, that on their restless fronts Bear stars— illumination of all gems." 21G PICTURESQUE ILLUSTRATIONS OF WESTMORLAND, VIEW FROM LANGDALE PIKES, LOOKING TOWARDS BOWFELL WESTMORLAND. The present view is more circumscribed than the last, but is scarcely less striking in its character. The broad side of Bowfell confines the eye within a mountain fastness, of much grandeur and sublimity- Utter desolation appears to characterize the spot. " He who ascends to mountain-tops shall find The loftiest peaks most wrapt in clouds and snow ; He who surpasses or subdues mankind Must look down on the hate of those below : Tho' high above the sun of glory glow, And far beneath the earth and ocean spread, Round him are icy rocks, and loudly blow Contending tempests on his naked head. And thus reward the toils which to those summits led." Thus sings the muse of Byron : the reflection contains much of truth ; yet is written in gloominess of spirit. Another brief extract from the same poet is in keeping with the present scene. " The sky is chang'd ! — and such a change ! O night. And storm and darkness, ye are wondrous strong, Yet lovely in your strength, as is the light Of a dark eye in woman ! Far along, From peak to peak, the rattling crags among, Leaps the live thunder I Not from one lone cloud, But every mountain now hath found a tongue." Thecloud-i that hang on the summit of Bowfell remind us of a phenomenon connected with the mountain districts, called the Helm Wind, and to which we are not aware of having before adverted. CUMBERLAND, DURHAM, AND NORTHUMBERLAND. 217 The coming of the Helm Wind is indicated by the appearance of the Helm, a white cloud, resting on the summits of the hills, (most usually Cross Fell, and the neighbouring elevations ;) this cloud wears a bold, broad front, not dissimilar to a vast float of ice standing on edge. Immediately on its appearance, there issues from it a prodigious noise exceeding in grandeur and awfulness the roaring of the ocean. Occasionally is seen what is called the Helm Bar, from an idea that it controls the fury of the storm ; this consists of a white cloud arranged opposite to the Helm, and holding a station various in its dis- tances, sometimes not more tiian half-a-mile from the mountain, at others tliree or four miles. It continues in a tremulous motion till it disperses ; and then the hurricane issues forth, roaring along the sides of the hills, and frequently extending two or three miles from their sides. The sky is generally visible between the Helm and the Sar ; and fre- (juently small specks of clouds, and loose vapours, are separated from them, and fly across in contrary directions, both east and west, with amazing velocity. The violence of tiie wind is usually greatest when the Helm is highest above the mountains. The cold air rushes down the iiills witli astonishing force, so as to make it both difficult and dangerous for the adventurer to attempt an ascent. It mostly comes in gusts, but sometimes blows with unabated fury for twenty-four hours, and continues at intervals for from three to six weeks. Whilst digressing to introduce notices of remarkable phenomena observable in these mountainous regions, we may be permitted to allude to a singular appearance witnessed in the vicinity of Souter Fell ; and we are the more led to do so, from having read a well- authenticated statement of a similar phenomenon very recently witnessed on the Mendip Hills. On a summer's evening, in the year 17^3, the servant of Mr. Wren of Wilton Hall was sitting at the door with his master, when they both saw the figure of a man with a dog pursuing some horses along Souter Fell side, a place so steep that a horse could scarcely keep his footing on it. Tiiese visionary forms appeared to run at an amazing pace, till they got out of sight at the lower end of the Fell. Mr. Wren and his servant next morning ascended the steep of the mountain, expecting to find the man dead ; but they found no vestige whatever of man, dog, or horse. The following year, 1744, on the twenty-third of June, the same servant, then in the employ of Mr. Lancaster of Hlakehills, saw a troop of horsemen riding along Souter Fell, in close ranks, and at a brisk pace. Having been much ridiculed the previous year for his report, he determined to observe rigidly and with caution ; after assuring himself that he was not deceived as to the actual (tppeamiices, he went and informed his master of what he had seen, and both returned to the place together. Before their arrival, however, the son of Mr. Lancaster had discovered the mountain phantoms ; and the three witnessed the phenomenon. Afterwards all the members of the family were summoned to see and bear testimony to the existence of the fact. In all, it appeared, there were twenty-six per- sons who had ocular proof of the occurrence. 31 218 PICTURESQUE ILLUSTRATIONS OF WESTMORLAND, The phenomena above described assimilate to that, well known as the Spectre of the Broken, in the Hartz Mountains ; and may be rationally explained on the principles of refraction and reflection, the shadowy forms being no other than the images of realities, favourably posited with relation to the refracting medium and the observer's eye. GOLD RILL BECK AND LAKE ULLSWATER, CUMBERLAND. Gold Rill Beck is in the valley of Patterdale ; and unites several streams which pass through it to lake Ullswater. From the bridge, or in its immediate neighbourhood, the tourist discovers a splendid prospect, including the rich meadows that lie on each side of the Beck, the lake before named, and a mountainous range closing the view on the north. BUTTERMERE LAKE AND VILLAGE,— CUMBERLAND. This view of Buttermere lake and village is taken from the road, leading from Crummock Water to Gatesgartli, and which passes through the village and along the banks of the lake. The valley of Buttermere is exceedingly beautiful and picturesque, the air pure and salubrious ; and near the bottom of the vale is a very lofty cascade, " bisect- ing the mountain whence it descends like a white riband," and which, from its constant foaming, has obtained among the country people the name of •' Sour Milk Force." The vale of Buttermere is rather confined in that part which the lake occupies, the mountains shelving down to the water's edge ; but, below, it opens, and extends to a con- siderable distance. The inhabitants of the valley, previous to the neighbourhood becom- ing a place of fashionable resort, were extremely rustic in character, and their pursuits were confined, on the part of the women, to spinning yarn, and, on that of the men, to working the slate quarries, Gatesgarth dale, at the head of Buttermere valley, is a tremendous scene : the area is concave, the sides almost perpendicular, and composed of a kind of broken craggy rock, the ruins of which every where strew the valley, and give it a still greater air of I CUMBERLAND, DURHAM, AND NORTHUMBERLAND. 219 desolation. A river also runs through it, which is the principal feeder of the lake, and not less wild in its appearance than the valley itself. This awful solitude occupies the distance in our illustrative view. On advancing into this mountainous retreat, the spectator notices the clouds hanging gloomily on the sides of the hills, and concealing from his observation more than half tiieir height. " The middle of the valley is adorned, as these valleys in some parts are, by a craggy hill, on the top of which stands tlie fragment of a rock, that looks, in Ossian's language, like the stone of power, the rude deity of desolation, to which the scene is sacred." That portion of the vale of Buttermere which, with reference to the present view, lies in the rear of the observer, is a wide variegated scene, full of rising and falling grounds, woody in many parts, well inhabited in some ; fruitful and luxuriant in all. The mountain of High Stile appears on the left in our view, and Honister Crag in the distance. SKELWITH BRIDGE,— WESTMORLAND. Skelwith Bridge is a hamlet in the township of Loughrigg, on the river Brathay, two miles and a half west-south-west of Ambleside. Tlie view is taken passing down the Brathay from Lake Windermere. Proceeding on, the tourist reaches tlie cataract of Skelwith Force, which is less remarkable for its height than for the body of water it contains. The passage of the river is much contracted for some distance above the torrent, within a chasm formed in a vast bed of rocks ; and after rushing down this confined channel, the waters are discharged witii amazing force into an abyss beneath. Colwith Force, of which a view and description have been given, is in this neigh- bourhood. SCOUT SCAR, NEAR KENDAL,— WESTMORLAND. Scout Scar is a mountainous elevation in the vicinity of Kendal, situate eastward of tiie town, and overlooking the vale of the Kent river. Hence is obtained a delightful prospect, extending to the Irish sea, and diversified with a great variety of pleasing and pictures(|ue objects : hill and plain ; the meandering stream, and tlie wide expanse of the distant ocean; the rich verdure of the valley, and the bleak shattered precipices; all these combine with astonishing effect : — " Each gives each u double charm. Like pearls upon an I'.thiop's ami." The Scars in the neighbourhood of Kendal yield a stone of the most durable quality, which is so compact in its formation, as to receive a polish etiual to that of marble. 220 PICTURESQUE ILLUSTRATIONS OF WESTMORLAND, ETC. The modern buildings in the town are mostlj^ constructed of this beautiful material ; and the appearance they present, so elegant in itself, is rendered yet more striking by contrast with the tall Lombardy poplars which rise above them, and by the long range of hanging gardens to the west of the town. The Kent river, after washing the skirts of Kendal, flows southward to the vicinity of Milnthorpe, where it receives the Belo into its noble estuary, and thence proceeds to the ocean over the sands of Morecambe Bay. Milnthorpe, the only sea-port of Westmorland, is seated on the north side of the Belo, near the mouth of the Kent, and sends vessels to the port of Liverpool, also to Glasgow and Annan in Scotland, laden with the manufactures of Kendal, and the natural products of the neighbourhood. The Kent sands present at different times a widely different appearance : during the flow of the tide, they lie many feet under water, and are covered with shipping ; but at the sea ebb they become a lively promenade of carnages and pedestrians. GLOSSARY OF PROVINCL\L TERMS. Barrow. A hill. Beck. A rivulet to which the gills are tributary. Fell. A mountain. Force, or Forse. A term sufficiently significant for a cataract or waterfall. Gill. A stream descending from the mountains ; also, the valley or dell into which it falls. Grange. A dwelling near the water. Haughs. Flat grounds lying on the water's side. Hause. a narrow passage over an acclivitv between two mountains. How. A hill rising in the midst of a valley. Scar. A range of rocks. Screes. A quantity of loose stones, separated from the rocks, and resting upon a steep declivity, whence they are dislodged by the slightest motion. Slack. A kind of defile between two mountains ; or a depression in the bosom of a hill. Thwaite. Frequently terminates the names of localities, and probably signifies an inclosure of land. LONDON : PHINTED BY H. FISHER, R. PISHKB, AND P. JACKSO.V. »VAL- from whlcMtjwas^oiTOwed^ J \DJ^ D 000 457 855'