REPRINTS: 
 
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 SKETCHESo:TRAVE 
 
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 iV LAX1J AX1 J SKA 
 
 ? THE CREGAN- CURSE, 
 
 FTC. FTC 
 
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 The dozen letters herein reproduced from the columns of 
 the Eock Island Union are collected together in this form to 
 supply a number of friendly requests for them which it was 
 not convenient to otherwise comply with. The story of 
 'The Cregaii Curse" and the verses following are added as 
 seeming to have a flavor in consonance with certain portions 
 of the letters. "The Cregan Curse" is wholly fictitious as a 
 tale, and even as a Manx picture was purposely made untrue 
 in identification of its particular scenery.
 
 UNION PRINTING OFFICE, ROCK ISLAND, ILL.
 
 BY LAND AND SEA. 
 
 i. 
 
 ■-. DAYLIGHT TRIP OVER THE ROCK ISLAM) RAILWAY — THE 
 WESTERN PROSPECTOR — THE THKMOXT- loLANTHE. 
 
 Chicago, May 30, 1883. 
 When Rock Island scribes voyage to Moline or travel to 
 Milan. Illinois City or Coal Valley, they are apt to tell all 
 about it in print. r>ut when they step across the state to 
 Chicago it seems to be their habit to refrain from relating 
 their perils and adventures by the way. as well as those en- 
 countered after reaching the city. The former abstinence 
 is probably because they mostly make the trip by night and 
 see nothing. The latter maybe the result of an uncon- 
 scious feeling of rivalry between the two great ports of 
 entrance to the east and west confines of the state: Chicago 
 and Rock Island: creating a generous delicacy. Both cus- 
 toms are to be deprecated. A trip from Hock Island to 
 Chicago by day is a sedative which is good to take at this 
 season, particularly if the sun shines, as it did on Tues- 
 day. Leaving by the 7:55 Chicago & Rock Island train, one 
 rolls the distance by the time the afternoon has well begun, 
 almost as smoothly as a ball traverses the length of a bil- 
 liard table. A seat in a chair car is restful, a temporary place 
 in the dining car completely obliterates the recollection of a
 
 ISY LA XI) AM) SKA 
 
 possibly too hasty breakfast, and the view of the bright given 
 face of nature, passing so swiftly, rounds out the sensation 
 of content. Of course, among the throng of quiet and pleas- 
 ant people in one's car, there is the man who has been out 
 West, prospecting But he is like the steady, interminable 
 clack of the rolling gear of the train. He is part of the 
 journey, and attaches himself to an aged man, hard of 
 healing, to whom he communicates, in a voice of ear pierc- 
 ing clearness, the whole of his experiences. It takes him 
 about six hours to tell how he circumvented people and 
 things out West and as far back as Council bluffs, and he 
 leaves the train with the old gentleman, evidently intending 
 to go to the same hotel to finish his yarn. When he is in 
 the car he has an exasperating way of laughing, without hav- 
 ing said anything funny. It is his way of taking breath 
 to go on with, and, as soon as one recognizes this, one lose> 
 the suspicion that he is indulging his amusement at the crowd 
 for permitting his egotistical rattle. The old gentleman says 
 little, but that little induces reverence. It is in the form of 
 hints, suggesting that he is one of the multitude to whcin 
 the present site of the city of Chicago was once offered foi 
 a pair of ooots. a jack-knife and that inconsiderable portion 
 of tobacco known as * "chew." 
 
 An agriculturist would relish the day tiip. and would crit- 
 ically note the myriads of little pigs frisking about their 
 portly mothers. tLe calves and infantile colts without num- 
 ber, and the pools and fields sprinkled thickly with gosling- 
 anil ducklings, while the fair promise of such, stands of 
 corn as are up and the good showing of small grain, particu- 
 larly oats, would assure him that a crop is coming, though it 
 is backward and rather too partial in appearance as _\et. 
 
 As for the generous delicacy in saying nothing about 
 Chicago, look at it properly, from a Rock Island point of
 
 BY LAX I) AX J) SEA. 
 
 view, and it. seems sheer neglect. The Hock Island man 
 goes straightway to his own hotel, the Tremont House, where 
 Messrs. Hilton & Cobb give him peculiar greeting as such, 
 and he tinds that, with all their constant influx of visitors, 
 they have still the room, the fare and the comforts which the 
 material part of his soul loves. And Mr. Milton, himself a 
 Hock Island boy of yore, in speaking of home ami casually 
 touching upon Mr. Harper's tine system of tire escape and 
 protection at the Harper House. Rock Island, points out that 
 the Tremont House, too, has its outside ladders to the 
 ground, and its stand-pipes, at the end of every corridor: 
 its four staircases, with red lamps burning at the head of 
 each to mark its place; its wide-awake watchmen in the dif- 
 ferent halls at night, with four electric gongs in every hall, 
 under control of the office, to sound their din by the hour 
 together without resetting, and its system of other devices 
 to guard against danger from fire, which, in this solid and 
 massive structure, is reduced to the minimum of possibility 
 -and. as the tire station is within half a block, the electric 
 signal from the office to the station would bring the firemen 
 to the hotel in thirty seconds. But these precautions have 
 to be taken, to keep up with the times, danger or no danger. 
 Then there is another Rock Island attraction. Mrs. Ot - 
 tilie Abel- Haas is playing, with the Chicago Church Choir 
 Co., in Gilbert it Sullivan's latest comic opera, "Iolanthe." 
 She is the principal of three fairies ruled by a Queen. Her 
 name is "Celia" and she is what Brother Baldwin would term 
 "the belle of the ball/' Clad in a loose robe of a delicious 
 shade of green, and made up as a dark-eyed blonde in hair 
 and complexion, the airy grace of her movements and the 
 perfect ease with which she acts her supernal role hardly 
 need the aid of the pair of diaphanous wings which spring 
 from between her shoulders to proclaim her a true daughtei
 
 10 BY LAND AM) SEA. 
 
 of Fairyland. From the opening solo of the piece, in which, 
 speaking for the trio, she sings: 
 
 "We are dainty little fairies, 
 
 Ever singing, ever dancing; 
 We indulge in onr vagaries 
 
 In'a fashion most entrancing — " 
 she is a favorite with the audience, and the charming can- 
 dor with which she answers, when told by the Fairy Queen 
 that to love a mortal is weakness: "We know it's weak- 
 ness, but the weakness is so strong!" comes at the close of 
 an impersonation which it is pleasant to praise. "Iolanthe" 
 is being performed at McYicker's Theatre. In amusing in- 
 congruities it is own brother to the other Gilbert A' Sullivan 
 pieces. Its first act is scened in an Arcadian landscape, with 
 a river and cascade running at the back of the stage; its other 
 act being set in the yard of Westminster Palace, with the 
 Palace, all ali»ht at night, spanning the whole rear of the 
 stage. The fairy crowd, or the Peris, are enchanting, and 
 the gang of twenty Peers of the realm, who finally fall in 
 love with the Peris, are immense. They are covered with 
 gorgeous cloaks of velvet and each one wears upon his head 
 the typical coronet telling the plebeian beholder that he is a 
 duke, marquis, count, viscount, or baron, as the case may- 
 be; and the horror with which the bunch hear the promulga- 
 tion of the doctrine that the peerage ought to be thrown 
 open to competitive examination, and the abominable ab- 
 surdity of seeing the Lord Chancellor, in a full bottomed 
 wig. and two of the noble lords in coronets dancing a solemn 
 break-down in the palace yard, are but a couple of the sub- 
 limely ludicrous things, which, interspersed with the ele- 
 gant comicalities and more serious effects of the whole 
 piece, combine to call forth repeated encores from the 
 audience.
 
 BY LAND AND SEA. 11 
 
 II. 
 
 FROM CHICAGO TO THE SEABOARD — SCENES AND INCI- 
 DENTS ON A BALTIMORE & OHIO TRAIN — NEW YORK AND 
 ITS ANGLOMANIA. 
 
 Chicago, June 4. 
 
 The Baltimore & Ohio track was dry, but not dusty, 
 the whole distance from Chicago and the sun shone 
 brightly during its Hunted hours, making the chance to see 
 the beauties of "the picturesque line of America"a good one. 
 The first few miles, except for peeps at the water of Lake 
 Michigan on the left hand and the perusal of fence-board 
 literature on the right, were of course, as quiet as they were 
 swiftly traversed. When a few of our passengers had seen 
 all they cared of the lake and had committed to memory 
 that they must eat a certain man's candy, go to some one's 
 museum and stop at a number of different hotels and places 
 where masculine garments are purchaseable at low rates, 
 — on their return to Chicago. — they went on a stroll through 
 the train. On their completion of the round of cars, notes 
 were gravely compared. There was a pretty heavy passen- 
 ger list, composed mostly of a good grade of folks, not 
 more exciting to look at than dignified respectability usually 
 is. But there were three, and possibly five, newly married 
 couples, and a tall, slender bride, with dark eyes and a pale 
 face, was voted (ayes II, nays 2), to be the prettiest. The 
 minority vote was for a bride with round, rosy cheeks and 
 fuzzy brown hair. In deference to the minority it was al- 
 lowed that she was the prettiest, too. 
 
 There was considerable decorous unction in making up 
 this report. Then it was voted unanimously that "the in-
 
 12 BY LA XI) AND SKA 
 
 cident in the smoking car was a disappointment, almost 
 amounting to a sell." It had happened that, as the commit- 
 tee of inspection entered the smoking car. an old lady 
 therein, in a blue veil, had asked if it was 12 o'clock. Her 
 query was addressed to an old gentleman in a skull-cap 
 with a basket on his knee. A reply being made that it was 
 just 10:30, the old lady sighed deeply, paused a moment, 
 then reached in the basket and brought forth two raw eggs. 
 She handed one to her consnrt and both went to work, on 
 the approved formula: milking an aperture at the apex. 
 ;i corresponding one at the base, and extra -tin" the fluid 1>\ 
 suction. The committee watched the placid disposal of 
 seven eggs, four by the old lady and three by the old gen- 
 tleman, and would have waited an hour, if necessary, to see 
 what expression of face would result from one or the other 
 of the parties striking a bad egg and getting a mouthful of 
 it. But, by the time the chances were seven to one in favor 
 of success, the lid of the basket was shut down and the 
 show was over. It was afterward surmised, from the grand 
 square meal the old couple disposed of at dinner time, at 
 (rarrett. that the eggs were taken as a kind of animal oyster. 
 to create appetite. Two of the newly married couples left 
 the train at way stations, one of them being very enthusias- 
 tically received by a lot of country friends. The three 
 others subsequently disappeared in the curtained recesses 
 at one end of a sleeper, in a berth adjacent to which were 
 stowed away three nice, but travel-weary little children. 
 who affectionately kicked each other and squealed for more 
 than half the night. 
 
 The difference since the Baltimore & Ohio came to own 
 and operate its own sleepers is very perceptible. The sleep- 
 ing cars are magnificently built and fitted, and the familiar 
 white-capped officials who are on duty upon them are so
 
 BY LAXf) AX1> SAM. 1:! 
 
 civil and assiduous iti their attention-; that they add a charm 
 to the infinite variety for which this route is famed, particu- 
 larly from the Ohio to the Potomac. Adjectives have been 
 exhausted in eulogy of the gems of nature displayed by the 
 long, graceful sweeps and constant succession of curves in 
 which this road pencils out its 'dine of beauty" through the 
 wild grandeur of the Alleghanies and looking deep down in- 
 to their lovely valleys. To point the situation by the favor- 
 ite method of figures, read the sign-hoard at one cool and 
 breezy station: "Deer Park, altitude 2,70(1 feet." The sheer 
 declivities into some of the valleys defy figurative descrip- 
 tion, but the awe inspired by the first glance at them vanishes 
 quickly as the eye admiringly encounters the varied green- 
 ery showered down upon their slopes and shelves, with 
 sharp and rugged features peeping out here and there, and 
 the relief is completed by the streams which thread their 
 hurried way, through the valleys' base, plashing and eddy- 
 ing, leaping over a thousand rocks within the scope of a 
 glance, and each one doubtless singing its song to those near 
 enough to hear: "For men may come and men may go, but 
 I flow on forever." But the best of views have to be parted 
 with in transit, and one of the last things one notes as the 
 beautiful panorama ends is an amused recognition that John 
 Brown's Fort at Harper's Ferry maintains its desirability as 
 a place to cover with circus posters, which some one seems 
 to tear down with equal desirability, the Fort thus serving to 
 inflame and aggravate the public mind with fragmentary pic- 
 tures of a lion's head with its fangs well demonstrated, go- 
 ing to bite something which has been removed: the hind 
 legs of a tiger, in hot haste after somebody unseen, and oth- 
 er suggestive but unsatisfying glimpses of tragic import 
 completing the impression that there is some live show trav- 
 eling somewhere, and that John Brown is indeed dead.
 
 H BY LAXD AM) SKA. 
 
 New York is — is— is more so. if anything, than it used to 
 be, and the roar of the streets is at one moment like the 
 hoarse voice of the cataract of Niagara, and at another like 
 the racket of a railway train. As the multitude rapidly laces 
 and interlaces its particles in a never-woven fabric along its 
 streets, a whimsical thought occurs to the listless observer, 
 peering from some window, of the "millions in it" if these 
 thousands could only, by some electric method of under- 
 standing, arrange for a part of their number to carry 
 the messages of the whole. But the secretiveness of 
 humanity, in the matter of its personal business, will proba- 
 bly prevent this idea from ever being patented. 
 
 There is. in certain sections of the city, a large "lay-out" on 
 the part of merchants to stamp everything as "English." and 
 it is possible that if they had a Rock Island or Moline plow 
 to sell it would be vaguely announced to be "English " 
 But a partial cause for this is not far to seek. The 
 main rush of ocean travel is for the island containing Eng- 
 land, Scotland and Wales, and he who hasn't been is mostly 
 "thinking of going sometime." Of fifty ocean steamers 
 sailing from here this month of June, twenty-one go to Liv- 
 pool and five each to London and Glasgow; total thirty- 
 one; the remaining nineteen being divided up between Bre- 
 men, Hamburg. Antwerp. Havre, Amsterdam and Rotterdam. 
 
 Mr. John Holland, the directory man, reached here from 
 Liverpool on Saturday and was met by our friend, Ctipt A. 
 E. Wells. Mr. Holland has been in England ten months. 
 He weighed 155 pounds when he left here, and comes back 
 weighing ] ( .»4. ('apt. Wells asks after everybody in Rock 
 Island. When called upon, at the office of the New York 
 Times, he and his brother i who is his chief) take delight in 
 showing the Rock Island visitors the most wonderfully per- 
 fect composing department possible to imagine.
 
 BY LA XI) AXD SEA. 15 
 
 III. 
 
 a voyage from new york to queenstown— the inma.n 
 steamship •'city of berlin." 
 
 On Board the City of Berlin, / 
 June 7 to 15. \ 
 
 Most of the passengers on this trip of the Innian steamer 
 City of Berlin came on Board on Wednesday evening (June 
 ''.I. The dawn of Thursday brought the remainder, and, at 
 i>:2tl a. M. the courteous Capt. Leitch (Commodore of the 
 Inman tieet) and one of his officers took their places on the 
 steamer's "bridge" beside the pilot, the signal was given to 
 cast loose from the pier aud the tow-boat E. M. Millard 
 helped the big vessel to back out of her berth. Out she 
 went, stern first, with a graceful sweep which brought her 
 head-on to her path down the North river, a crowd of 
 friends at the end of the pier having never ceased to frantic- 
 ally wave handkerchiefs and tiny flags during the manoeuvre 
 of departure. A small boat took off the pilot at the light- 
 ship — and that was the last taste of shore. Soon, the tell- 
 tale faces of the two telegraph indicators on the bridge 
 showed that the word had sped, like a flash, to the wheel- 
 house and engine room, to steer the vessel steady on her 
 course, full speed, ahead. 
 
 Shortly after leaving land, the hot haze, telling of the in- 
 tense heat left behind in New York, cooled into fog, which 
 lifted but once during the afternoon, only to fall again, and 
 scarce giving a moment's interval, later, in which to catch
 
 Ill 
 
 II Y LAND AM) SKA
 
 B\ LAND AXD SKA. 17 
 
 sight of the new moon, sinking in the far West. TLe mourn- 
 ful sound of the ship's steam-gong, or fog-horn, was heard, 
 once every minute, Tittering its deep-toned warning of the 
 coming of the great ocean steamship. There was a breeze 
 on the starboard bow and the foresail, fore-topsail and try- 
 sail were set, steadying the motion of the vessel into a long 
 swing and gentle roll, amid which could be perceived the 
 smooth, pulsating thud of her powerful engines, beating- 
 like a life current of fifty-five throbs per minute. Of course, 
 some passengers were sick by this time, their smiles having 
 paled in color and grown few in number until the climax of 
 their nausea. (Those who have seen Mr. Bishop play the 
 part of the steamship passenger in "Strictly Business," at 
 Harper's Theatre, will particularly appreciate their con- 
 dition). But a fair proportion of the passengers were 
 not sick at all. Of these, some walked, some talked, some 
 began to read numbers of the "Seaside Library," and oth- 
 ers, as the evening closed in, leaned their elbows on the 
 bulwarks, looking at the white night-caps which the fresh- 
 ening breeze was putting on the heads of the waves, noting 
 the deep, widening furrow ploughed by the ship through 
 the dark blue sea, broad streaks of froth speeding from the 
 share of the giant plow to the furrow's ridge, whence the 
 wind snatched the white crest and swept it away in a shower 
 of spray. Or, looking astern, they saw how the propelling 
 screw churned up the water with furious strength, the 
 ship's wake being one indescribably turbulent commotion 
 of brilliant blue, boiling with pure and snowlike foam as 
 far as the eye could see. yet looking unutterably cold. 
 Hovering over the wake were some of Mother Carey's chick- 
 ens, brown birds with white girdles: each in appearance, 
 size and manner of night, suggesting a maritime whip-poor- 
 will. These birds followed the ship for three days and then
 
 IS 
 
 II V LA XI) A XI) SEA. 
 
 gradually gave way to the large Atlantic seagull, whose white 
 body ami gray-brown wings might be seen at times dnring 
 most of the rest of tbe passage. 
 
 Friday was foggy till noon, and again at night. Saturday 
 was fog or haze all day. the heavy humidity of the atmos- 
 phere at night streaming in water from the awning over tin- 
 spar and promenade decks. The wind was ahead and made 
 convalescing sick folks keep cpriet. but the little children on 
 board, and those of larger growth who were well, kept busy 
 with swinging, skipping rope, leap-frog, shovel-board, rope 
 'limits, checkers, chess and other amusements: or men went 
 into the barber-shop for an artistic shave, or perhaps sought 
 the ever-cheerful society of Mr. J. T. Kavauagh. the Pur- 
 ser. Mr. Kavanagh has tilled the position of Purser on 
 this route of ocean travel for twenty-eight years, has crossed 
 the Atlantic ocean over 500 times and is the senior veteran of 
 all the pursers on this ocean, though still a youthful looking 
 man. He is an enthusiast upon the subject of the Inman 
 line and its steerage passage, and is said to have (stowed 
 away somewhere) a scrap-book full of newspaper clippings. 
 of testimonial, reporterial and editorial nature, thankfully 
 praising his conduct of the Inman steerage, or in grave ap- 
 proval of him generally. As the steerage is just forward of 
 his office, it is handy to get him to show one through. The 
 steerage is a vast cabin, occupying the forepart of the ship. 
 All along its sides are row- of sleeping apartments, conduct- 
 ed so as to secure decency and privacy. The sea-breeze 
 blows, fresh and pure, through the numerous open ports, 
 and the absolute cleanness and wholesomeness of the place 
 are most inviting. The broad, long centre of the steerage is 
 where its passengers take their meals, at the tables there. 
 What they eat and what they drink are precisely the same 
 things eaten and drunk in the first cabin, and their fare only
 
 BY LAND A XI) SEA. 19 
 
 differs from that of the first cabin in there being fewer nu ru- 
 bers on the programme. For instance, the steerage passen- 
 gers are given for breakfast (at 8 a. m.) tea and eoffee, with 
 milk and sugar and oatmeal porridge, followed (at 10 a. ji.) 
 by beef-tea and French rusks. For dinner (at 1 p. M.), 
 they are furnished with pea soup, or fresh vegetable soup, 
 )■ iast and boiled beef and potatoes, and rice or other pud- 
 ding (with rich plum pudding on Sunday). Their supper 
 [■"> p. JI.) is of gruel, tea with sugar and milk, and fresh 
 white rolls and butter. Sometimes as many as 1,450 steer- 
 age passengers sit down to each of these meals, and that 
 number is every hit as big as it sounds, when packed away 
 on hoar 1 in the steerage of this ship, yet is there comfort for 
 all. and one cannot wonder that the kindly, firm super- 
 vision of the veteran "business man." Air. Kavanagh, wins 
 him repeated encomiums on board the City of Berlin, as also 
 may be heard in the various ships of the fleet, the system 
 modeled by him being carried on throughout it. The Inman 
 line was the first to furnish, cook and serve food to steerage 
 passengers, just as it was the first to carry steerage passen- 
 gers at all across the Atlantic, the first to introduce the 
 screw propeller ami the first to call at Queenstown to re- 
 ceive and deliver mails and passengers and always carries 
 more passengers of all classes than any other line. 
 
 Fog still — hut there is more of the ship to see and talk 
 about. On inquiry, one finds that the City of Berlin, now 
 just eight years old. is 525 feet long and 45 feet in beam 
 measurement; his orlop, lower, main, spar and promenade 
 decks, five decks in all. has three masts, fore, main and miz- 
 zen. and may be known by her square canvas to be full ship 
 rigged. Her company includes 175 officers ami men of all 
 kinds, and she carries ten commodious boats. Her engines 
 are compound: high pressure 12 diameter, low bid, length of
 
 2ii 
 
 BY LAND AM) SEA 
 
 stroke 5j feet, (fifty-live strokes per minute being (heir full 
 speed), with steam power supplied by twelve boilers, carry- 
 ing 7-") pounds pressure, and consuming only Kid tons of 
 coal per day. 
 
 The main saloon, in which the first-class passengers take 
 their meals, occupies the whole width of the ship on the main 
 deck and is -ioxoo feet in area. Its four long rows of tables 
 seat If JO persons at once, are adorned with hot-house plauts 
 in full bloom in fancy pots and are furnished with an equip- 
 ment at meal -times both solid and elegant, above a score of 
 stewards waiting upon a table which has no superior in that 
 of a first-class hotel ashore, while the fittings and finish of 
 the whole saloon are perfectly enchanting. By day. the many 
 crimsoned-curtained ports light this grand cabin, but at 
 night its splendor is intensified by the Siemens electric 
 light. — which system also illumines the passages on the 
 main and lower decks and the engine room, the remaining 
 interior of the ship being lighted by ingenious lamps, fed by 
 oil of similar merit. 
 
 As for one's state room, or private cabin, it is UxN feet in 
 area, 11 feet high, fitted on one side with two berths, each 25 
 inches wide and containing spring beds, and on the other 
 side with a luxurious lounge of padded crimson velvet. 
 Above this lounge is a port (a circular window, ten inches in 
 diameter . through which one can gaze upon the ocean, or 
 which one can open for air. (though the ventilation is am- 
 ple without that i. or can screen by its tiny crimson cur- 
 tain-. In other matters, the floor is carpeted, the gilt-edged 
 wash-stand is supplied with water by the touching of a knob. 
 there are all the usual accessories for a complete toilet (with 
 a bath room next door) and the pressure of an ivory button 
 brings, literally by electricity, the steward, or stewardess on 
 dutv in one's section.
 
 BY LAND AND SKA. 21 
 
 There was fog all Sunday, with slight intermission . In 
 the morning, the various crews of the ship's boats were lined 
 up in squads along the spar deck and were formally inspect- 
 ed las is done every Sunday morning, as well as just before 
 sailing,) and Capt Leitch then read prayers in the grand sa- 
 loon. The day was cool, and, after the southernmost point 
 of the Bank of Newfoundland had been passed in the after- 
 noon, the cold grew severe and but few faced it and 
 the searching damp of the fog, even if clad in the warmest 
 wrappings. The fog lifted at noon on Monday. The after- 
 noon was fair, but rain fell at night. Head winds con- 
 tinued. Tuesday was wet and foggy. The weather 
 cleared up on "Wednesday, but the head winds continued 
 until Thursday afternoon, when all breeze departed and 
 soon the ocean had not a wave upon it, but became one uni- 
 versal sheet of undulating smoothness. And so it was when 
 the sun went down in gold and crimson glory, throw- 
 ing a brilliant gleam of light straight from the West 
 nlong the scarcely dimpled water to where the eyes of so 
 many were homeward looking back in silent contemplation. 
 
 Friday (which is to-day) has been tine, with a fresh 
 breeze on the port bow. The loneliness of the wide waste 
 of water has been relieved by the sighting of several sails. 
 
 -a feature exceptionally scarce hitherto during this trip. 
 In the afternoon, land was sighted and Fastnet was passed, 
 since when laud has been continually to be seen on the port 
 beam: the coast of Ireland. And now, late on in the long 
 hours, Queenstown is neared. the tender to take off mails 
 and passengers is at hand and all the leisure time of the 
 past week is suddenly exchanged for half an hour of hurry, 
 in which seems hardly time enough to write "All's well!" and 
 add one's signature. 
 
 P. S. — At the last moment, the following document, sign-
 
 •1-1 RY LAND A XI) SKA. 
 
 ed by the whole of the steerage passengers, is handed to Mr. 
 Kiivanagh: 
 
 "To lh> huiKtn Steiimtihip Company: 
 
 "Inmax Steamship City of Berlin, ' 
 Off Qteenstown, June 15, IH83. i 
 "We, the passengers in the steerage desire to express to you 
 our satisfaction with the cleanliness and good order which 
 have prevailed throughout the passage, also the attention 
 and civility of the stewards and the plentiful supply of good 
 provisions. "
 
 BY LAND AND SEA. 
 
 IV. 
 
 THE ENGLISH SHORES AND THE BATHING MACHINES — 
 THE INNS. THE STREET SIGHTS AND THE SHOPS. 
 
 Liverpool, June 24. 
 The steamer City of Berlin made a very pleasant trip 
 from Qneenstown to Liverpool, passed Holyhead with the 
 red ensign and all her ribbons streaming gaily, with a mag- 
 nificent view of the Welsh coast all the way after entering 
 the channel. The passengers were enthusiastic over the 
 beauty of the panorama, until entering the mouth of the 
 river Mersey, where, on the shore of New Brighton, there 
 was to be seen an array of tiny little houses, each on four 
 wheels. "Whatever are those?" demanded the uninitiated. 
 "Those," responded a quiz. ''Those are the sentry boxes of 
 the Horse Marines, the celebrated cavalry corps which al- 
 ways goes on duty under cover and on wheels." A general 
 laugh greeted this explanation. The little buildings were 
 then recognized as bathing machines and some one describ- 
 ed how they are operated. You enter the machine, at the 
 tail end. by a flight of steps, and begin to undress. A horse 
 is hooked to the front end. The individual bestriding the 
 animal waits till he thinks you are pretty well tangled up 
 in the operation of pulling off your shirt over your head, 
 and then starts up his horse with a jerk. The machine has 
 no springs and you bang about all over its interior until the 
 splash of the horse's progress down into the water ceases. 
 Then you pick up your clothes from tbe floor, hang them
 
 24 BY LAND A XI) SKA. 
 
 on pegs, go out at the front door, take a cold-blooded im- 
 mersion and get back into the machine. The equestrian 
 drags it up out of the water, and two or three persons who 
 want to bathe sit on the front steps while- you dress, and 
 abuse you to each other for being so slow. Finally, with 
 your feet feeling sandy in your socks, you come out and 
 they take their turn at the fun. 
 
 The steamer stopped opposite her dock on the Liverpool 
 side, not far from the month of the river, and two steam 
 tenders came alongside. One took off the baggage and the 
 other the passengers, and away they went up the harbor to 
 the Prince's pier, a shower of rain falling meanwhile. On 
 landing there was the usual unsystematic, tedious business 
 of the customhouse inspection to undergo: kindly enough 
 done, but all of the rough and ready order, or disorder: and 
 then one was at liberty to go. 
 
 Maybe one went to the Adelphi Hotel and reveled in its 
 delights Maybe one went to the newly furnished Washing- 
 ton and felt more at home in its appearance and ways, or may- 
 lie one went to one of the old hostelries. where there is fur- 
 niture of the last century, where the bedstead is a spacious 
 four-poster with curtains, and the bed consists of a couple 
 of thick mattresses, with a tremendous feather bed on top. 
 tightly stuffed with feathers and rising up to it- centre like 
 a dome. It is interesting to storm one of these citadels, and 
 to feel one's-self simultaneously dropping to sleep and slip- 
 ping down the side of the dome, until, at last, one's weight 
 tells, the feathers begin to sink in the middle and a seuse of 
 security absorbs all other senses in the first sleep ashore 
 after a sea voyage. 
 
 Liverpool is very unlike New York. In certain mercan- 
 tile circles of New York everything, to command attention, 
 must be English. In similar circles of Liverpool, every-
 
 BY LAND AND SEA. 25 
 
 thing is American, if it expects to be sold. That is a com- 
 parison, showing how similar the dissimilarity of the two 
 places is. Other comparisons would involve a statement of 
 relative conditions, would be trivial in result and hair-split- 
 ting to make. The city is beautifully clean in its more pre- 
 tentious parts, and an idler rinds that Le hardly seems to get 
 anywhere for gazing into the shop windows, most of them 
 fronted with vast sheets of plate glass. What millinery and 
 feminine gear, displayed on wax figures, life size! What 
 hat shops, tailors' shops, furniture shops! What shops full 
 of glittering cutlery, of dazzling jewelry, of 'cute little things 
 one would like to buy! What windows full of books! All 
 the authors you want, full editions of each, hnndsomely 
 bound in everything, all the way from half calf up, to be had 
 for what seems so little money! And what shop windows 
 full of fruit! Oh. bother the old statues and the public 
 buildings and the miles of shipping! Let's look at these 
 immense grapes and gigantic strawberries and cherries, all 
 hot-house grown. The supply seems inexhaustible. Anil 
 those lovely West India pine -apples and ripe figs! At last 
 one gets where one was going, and strolls back in like manner 
 as he went, the only interruption being from the swarms of 
 children trying to sell him boxes of matches, or from news- 
 venders whose sharp eyes detect whence he hails and who 
 try to tempt him with the latest New York papers. Or there 
 is the seedy-looking, red-nosed man, who begs the price of 
 a glass of beer from one sort of way-farer, or a copper to- 
 ward a cup of coffee from another. But none of these are 
 more than civilly importunate. Out-door "minstrelsy" is 
 abundant particularly at night-fall. There is an old time 
 barrel-organ playing airs by Verdi at one end of a street, a 
 modern piano-organ giving far more pleasing strains at the 
 other, a man with a sort of piccolo whistle in full blast half
 
 BY LAXD AX I) SKA. 
 
 way between, and another, at the intersection of a blind-al- 
 ley, suggestive in name of his own sightless orbs, singing 
 something unrecognizable to the tunc he is squeezing out of 
 an accordion, inaudible, amid the general din. while each 
 musician has an attendant stretching out a well-worn cap 
 for the pence which the hurrying populace seems not to 
 care to bestow. 
 
 Such, to the superficial eye of one who has no curiosity 
 to see the "lions" of the place, who is bent upon not weary- 
 ing himself with beginning a scrutiny of the evidences of 
 the grandeur of the great city-port, who is easily pleased 
 with such surface attractions as readily arrest the attention 
 of a sojourner to the momentary exclusion of the stirring 
 world around — such is one little glimpse of Liverpool. Hut. 
 while these last words are being written, the evening bells 
 in the church towers ring out a remonstrance against forget- 
 ting them, an entreaty to pause a moment and listen to 
 what they have to say: peal upon peal, rippling and swelling 
 in a flood of harmony that drowns all other sounds. There 
 is not a happy thought they do not seem to crack their 
 throats to utter before the mind can frame it. nor a sad one 
 that can intrude upon their cheery melody.
 
 BY LAND AND SEA. 27 
 
 THE (ITV OF MANCHESTER AND ITS GENERAL FEATURES. 
 
 — A "'PLACE OF MEN" OLDEK THAN THE CHRISTIAN ERA. 
 
 Manchester, July 5. 
 Manchester is not a ''show" place. Foreign visitors do not 
 rush to it to gaze at ancient castles, with dungeons and 
 places of torture beneath, or to view magnificent scenery, or 
 yet inhale invigorating breezes. They come to it, almost in- 
 variably, from motives in some way connected with busi- 
 ness. The same is true of a large majority of its business 
 men. who live out of town and merely spend their hours of 
 toil iu the city. It is situated a little north of east of Liver- 
 pool, from which it is reached in forty-five minutes by train. 
 The editor of a publication called ''Manchester Illustrated," 
 in remarking that "Manchester is no modern mushroom 
 city" points out that "tradition says that, sixty years before 
 (.'hrist, a fort was erected by the natives, and was called by 
 them Maucenion, a place of tents. Seventy-nine years after 
 Christ this fort was conquered by the Romans and was call- 
 ed Mancynium, a place of men. " He goes on to say that thus 
 "the old town can look back on a history of eighteen centu- 
 ries of busy doings on the banks of the Irwell, once a pleas- 
 ant fishing stream, but now the muddiest, dirtiest, most 
 hard-worked stream of the smokiest, dirtiest, most hard- 
 worked city that flourishes in the reign of Victoria the 
 (Treat. He who would know what Manchester is, and what 
 Manchester men are, must live and toil in their midst. No
 
 •28 
 
 BY LA XI) A XI) SKA. 
 
 pen or pencil can portray their industry, tact and persever- 
 ance. The noblest monument of all is the city itself, 
 its factories, warehouses, shops ami streets." 
 
 These candid avowals and these claims are supported in 
 the publication by a most important array of facts ami fig- 
 ures, which is perhaps enough to say in comment upon their 
 particular generalization. "What Manchester is in one or 
 two other respects by which Americans are accustomed to 
 judge of communities, can be sufficiently well deduced from 
 tabular information, regarded with a special view. The city 
 limits of Manchester contain a population of not far from 
 700,000. A movement has been on foot, for some time, to 
 extend those Hunts, the continuity of the dense place hav- 
 ing long ago spread far beyond them, like a vast spider's 
 wel). and swallowed up. in all but municipal fact, numbers 
 of what were once surburban town and villages, each then 
 encircled by its own suburbanism; so that, to-day. the pop- 
 ulation crowded within a radius of rive miles of the Man- 
 chester Royal Exchange is nearly a million, making the 
 place the largest in the nation, after London. The mass of 
 the population consists of working people, more or Un- 
 skilled, and the labyrinths of streets of dwellings built 
 especially for their needs and means are beyond the com- 
 prehension of a stranger used to more evenly varied social 
 clusterings. Ami. to quote again, "the vast mass of people, 
 engaged inactive employment drawing more or less of the 
 rougher elements, requires an energetic and efficient organ- 
 ization to control it. and the police force numbers s lT, 
 Manchester has rive theatres on its list: also one permanent 
 circus building and six public halls, the total capacity of it^ 
 places of amusement being 24. KHi seats. On the other hand 
 there are 441 places of worship: Episcopal 111. Methodist 
 87. Independent 39, Primitive Methodist and Catholic 3~>
 
 BY LASD AXD SEA. 29 
 
 each, United Methodist 31, Presbyterian 16, Baptist 17, and 
 other chapels and mission rooms 70. Of all these, the 
 Cathedral, which is now being completely restored, is the 
 oldest, having been built -111 years ago. (Close by it, and 
 recently entirely rebuilt on a much larger scale, is the Gram- 
 mar School, founded by Hugh Oldham, Bishop of Exter, 
 373 years since ) The restorations, and the rebuilding of 
 old institutions whose vital usefulness has proved more en- 
 during than their masonry, emphasize the fact that the man- 
 tle of material age has almost slipped from the shoulders of 
 Manchester, for the match of improvement has swept away 
 everything of lesser contemporaneous standing, with a rul- 
 ing exception here and there, and the stranger's search for 
 antiquated appearances is chiefly rewarded by the sight of 
 more or less solitary examples of residence buildings not 
 more than a century or two old and resembling faded grand- 
 eur elbowed and jostled by modern utility. But they are 
 not truly solitary, because of this elbowing and jostling, and, 
 in many instances, are so tightly hemmed in by the multi- 
 plied successors of their contemporaries as readily to pass 
 unnoticed in the soot-stained crowd of inferior picturesque- 
 ness. One of the noteworthy exceptions in the way of con- 
 ferred insignificance is that of the Seven Stars Tavern, a hos- 
 telry within a few minutes' walk of the Exchange. This 
 tavern is the oldest place of entertainment of its kind in the 
 united kingdom, having been licensed to refresh "man and 
 beast" for more than rive centuries. There is nothing 
 especially modern in its immediate surroundings and it 
 looks good for centuries more. To return, for a moment, to 
 the showing of places of worship: A "blue book" just pub- 
 lished, speaking of places registered for religious solemni- 
 zation of marriage in England and Wales, gives the propor- 
 tion of 14,575 establishment (Episcopal) churches to 21,343
 
 30 BY LAXD AND SEA. 
 
 pliices nf worship of other kinds, demonstrating the "church" 
 to be in a solid minority of 6,7G8. The figures given for 
 Manchester may afford some idea of the way in which the 
 divided majority is subdivided. 
 
 To speak of public buildings with any degree of fairness — 
 those of a municipal, scientific or collegiate nature are here 
 especially in mind— could not possibly be done in the limits 
 of a letter, or in many letters, for they are chiefly as stupen- 
 dous in their history and workings as in their massive, 
 smoke-craped masonry. It may serve to pick out one or two 
 for mere mention. An old one is the Cheetham Library, 
 built in 1656. The infirmary was first opened in 1755. Then 
 come the Royal Institution and Free Trade Hall, the latttr 
 of which was built in 1856. The Assize Courts building was 
 put up in 1864, at a cost of over £100,000. More recent 
 structures are the new Owens College ami the Town Hall. 
 This last named building cost more than £1.1100.0(10, and is 
 already as grimy with smoke as if its originally delicate 
 colored stone masonry hail stood for ages in a city whose at- 
 mosphere is of an average cle ; mm j ss. It stands on 8,648 
 square yards of land. Its tower rises to a height of 286 feet 
 from the ground and is fitted with a set of bells arranged to 
 ring or chime tunes every three hours. 
 
 To one used to the lofty blue arch of the American sky 
 and an incomparably purer atmosphere 'to be found almost 
 anywhere else in the world than in this big foundry of com- 
 merce. I it is an intense relief to escape awhile from the city 
 of Manchester to one or other of the half dozen of people's 
 parks, in its outskirts, or to its g ivdens: botanical and zoolog- 
 ical: there to ponder and try to realize the immensity of the. 
 ooncentrition of enormous commercial undertakings and 
 belongings, whose 'apparently endless phalanx has monoto- 
 nouslv met his eve and understanding, turn which wav he
 
 BY LAND AND SEA. 31 
 
 would. Reflection upon this subject is something like an 
 endeavor to comprehend Niagara Falls. They are each one 
 unvaried thing, each the biggest thing in the world of its 
 kind, and each grows bigger in the mind during the time 
 one has patience to bestow in deliberate thought upon it,— 
 after which, it is to be presumed, familiarity would accom- 
 plish its proverbial result, at least to the extent of one's tak- 
 ing a great deal for granted that was too large to grasp and 
 hold. 
 
 VI. 
 
 THE PARKS AND GARDENS OF MANCHESTER — THE COL- 
 LECTIONS OP PICTURES AND STATUARY — SOME ANI- 
 MALS AND BIRDS, ETC. 
 
 Manchester, July 1(5. 
 
 The people of Manchester are provided with six free 
 parks: Peel. Seedley and Ordsal, in Salford; Queen's, in 
 Harpurhey: Philips' in Bradford, and Alexandra, in Moss 
 Side. All are easily reached by tram-car (as street-cars are 
 called.) Peel and Queen's parks contain tine museums. 
 Two of the parks, located at opposite points, may be taken 
 as samples. 
 
 Alexandra park is now about fourteen years old and is 
 the youngest of all. It stands upon what was once Green- 
 heys Fields, and anyone who would get a glimpse of 
 what they were should read the first chapter of the best 
 work of the Manchester authoress, the late Mrs. Gaskell, 
 (whose aged husband still preaches in his venerable chapel 
 in Cross street, Manchester,) "Mary Barton," (Seaside Li- 
 brary No. 125, ten cents). This locally revered breathing
 
 32 
 
 BY LAXD AXD SKA 
 
 spiit was deprived of its lingering rusticity by the hand of 
 municipal improvement, jusr in time to save its life from 
 being crushed out by the demand for building space. The 
 surrounding land thus became more valuable and is now 
 covered with vastly better residence houses, etc., than had 
 threatened to occupy it The park is a very attractive piece 
 of landscape gardening, with tine walks and terraces, and 
 much skill is displayed in scheming and management of its 
 flower beds, shrubberies and pretty ornamental waters, upon 
 the latter of which are a well varied display of aquatic birds. 
 Indeed, the way in which the immediate vicinity of the 
 large manufacturing city is set at defiance by the garden- 
 ers provokes admiration, for the smoke daden breath of that 
 city's atmosphere is a serious impediment to successful gar- 
 dening. As is usual in these public parks, there are separ- 
 ate play grounds, fitted with gymnastic apparatus, for the 
 two sexes, a bowling green, plenty of seat accommoda- 
 tion, etc. 
 
 Peel park is two or three times as old as Alexandra and 
 has, comparatively, the appearance of a prematurely aged 
 place. Its struL, r L, r le with the smoke-burdened air envelop- 
 ing it is apparent at a glance. But the battle is gallantly 
 fought and the enemy has not. as yet. the best of it. The 
 natural advantages of this park in the way of bluff and val- 
 ley situation are considerable and are utilized to the utmost 
 In a grand old mansion, enlarged from the original, are a 
 museum, galleries of pictures and statues, a free library with 
 a well supplied reading room. and. in the basement, a "tee- 
 total" refreshment room. The museum is literally crammed 
 with riches of natural history and the usual belougings <>f 
 such an abode of curious collections, among which the 
 American is frequently reminded of his home, even to the 
 extent of seeing an ear of corn. In the last twelvemonths,
 
 BY LAND AX J J SEA. 33 
 
 nearly 700,000 visitors have enjoyed themselves in the 
 museum, to say nothing of the vast number of persons who 
 only use the park. Specially worthy of mention in this 
 building are the samples of Assyrian sculpture, casts of 
 Grecian metopes, from the Parthenon, and a number of 
 Egyptian, Mexican, Chinese, Oriental, Greek, Roman, Cel- 
 tic and other antiques, including armor of the most respect- 
 able antiquity, accompanied by weapons of bloodthirsty ap- 
 pearance and cruel suggestion. The pictures in the galler- 
 ies area large and valuable collection, of great variety and. 
 in many cases, of striking beauty. Among them may be 
 mentioned ''The Queen of the Tournament.'' "The Last 
 Sleep of Argyle," "The Last Scene in the Life of the Mar- 
 quis of Montrose," "Princess Elizabeth Before the Rom- 
 ish Council," "The Assertion of Liberty of Conscience.'' "A 
 Dinner Party at Moliere's Villa." "John Wesley with bis 
 Friends at Oxford," "The Meeting of Esau and Jacob." 
 "The Salford Lass,'' "A Torrent Scene in Norway," "Ameri- 
 can Apples." "A Lancashire Witch," "Meeting of the Wes- 
 leyan Conference in Manchester in 1838," " Belshazzar's 
 Feast," and portraits of "Chatterton, the Poet,'' "Thorvald- 
 sen, the Sculptor." "Daniel O'Connell, the Liberator," "Sir 
 Robert Peel, the Statesman.'' "James Watt, Inventor of the 
 Steam Engine," "Richard Arkwright, Founder of the Present 
 Factory System," "John Dalton, the Philosopher," "Handel, 
 the Composer," and "Sir Isaac Newton." who was England's 
 greatest philosopher. Scores of other grand paintings 
 silently claim mention, including many of local celebrities, 
 
 — regarded by the people with commendable pride . but 
 
 these will serve. Nor is it necessary to dwell upon the scan- 
 dalously unclad, but lovely, marble sculpture centre-lining 
 the galleries, more than to mention the colossal group of 
 "Venus Disarming Cupid" (she holding his snatched-awav-
 
 :S4 flY LA XI) AND SEA. 
 
 bow at arm's length, while the little rascal is begging to get 
 it hack, i and Pereival Ball's beautiful life-sized statue 'The 
 (renins of Lancashire.'" This last is the figure of a young 
 
 woman. By her feet, all in snowy marble, are a shuttle and 
 other tools typical of the manufactures of Lancashire, and 
 she stands, bending forward, in the act of snapping a sword 
 across her knee, her face turned to the left and having the 
 peculiarity of seeming to smile when viewed from the front. 
 while "being fall of grave and steadfast energy as seen from 
 the direction to which it is turned. 
 
 Among the free breathing spots of verdure should also be 
 mentioned Ardwick Green, the nearest of all to the centre of 
 the city, and including, among its surroundings, an old 
 church, thickly covered with ivy. and a number of old 
 houses, once residences of more importance than any occu- 
 pants can ever make them again, because their vicinity is so 
 built up with houses of an inferior grade and places of busi- 
 ness. Ardwick Green is a small promenade park, orna- 
 mented with flowers and trees and a little water. It is 
 pretty, and unexpected. 
 
 There are three other places where the' lungs seem to play 
 more freely than in the heart of the city. Out- is the Botani- 
 cal Gardens, whose adjective title leads the visitor to expect 
 a good deal more in the way of scientific plant culture than 
 he rinds. These gardens are the property of a "proprietary 
 body," but the public is admitted to them, by payment, on 
 flower show and musical promenade occasions. Another is 
 the Pomona Gardens, also a "proprietary" place, but. always 
 open to the public. Galas, festivals and. occasionally, 
 political meetings are held here, and the gardens are 
 also fitted with a monster "hall." an open-air plat- 
 form and several large buildings for horse, dog. cattle, 
 poultry, pigeon and other shows. The third, and last
 
 BY LAND AND SEA. 35 
 
 on the list is the greatest, and by far the most attractive 
 of all. 
 
 This is the Belle Vue Zoological Gardens, about ten min- 
 utes by tram-car beyond Ardwick Green, and two miles and 
 a half from the centre of the city. In default of the exact 
 measurement of these gardens (they may cover three-quar- 
 ters of a mile square, or perhaps not so much,) an idea of 
 them may be gained from their contents. You pay as you 
 go in, and find free stabling provided for several hundred 
 horses. Then there are an immense hall, a large open-air 
 platform, two artificial lakes and some lesser ornamental 
 ponds, all with islets in them; an Asiatic kiosque, an Italian 
 garden, a croquet lawn, nursery and kitchen gardens, orna- 
 mental lawns and terraces, a large grazing paddock for 
 ruminant wild animals, a camellia and orange house, a 
 number of ferneries, hot-houses, conservatories, sum- 
 mer-houses, two mazes, constructed of tall, impenetrable 
 hedges; several aviaries, two bear-pits, a very handsome 
 monkey-house, built after the style of an Indian temple; a 
 museum, long rows of dens and cages, some very large and 
 all well-fitted and beautifully clean, for the wild beasts, 
 birds and reptiles; refreshment and tea-rooms to accommo- 
 date thousands at once, a confectionery, a bakery, gas works, 
 an electric light system, a printing office, a parcels office and 
 other departments, easily overlooked, which go to complete 
 the independence of the establishment, an establishment 
 whose patronage may be judged by the fact that it is said to 
 import its own tea from China by the ship-load. 
 
 As for the zoological treasures of the gardens, there is no 
 need to classify them, more than to try and show the parts 
 of the world they come from. They include samples of the 
 kestrel hawk and falcon, wood and barn owl, badger, fox, 
 raven, rook and chough of England; the deer, of Scotland;
 
 36 BY LAND AND SEA. 
 
 the ruff, of Holland; the wolf, of Sicily; the imperial eagle, 
 of Greece; the pelican, eagle-owl brown bear and wolf, of 
 Russia; the cinereous vulture, of Spain; the Bactrian camel, 
 of Tartary; the lion, of Babylon; the dromedary, of Egypt; 
 the tailless ape, of Borneo; the white-headed love-bird, of 
 Madagascar; the sun-bear, of Thibet; the falcon, of Persia: 
 the rhinoceros, hippopotamus, porcupine, civet-cat. ante- 
 lope, zebra, wattled crane, gallinule, rat. jackal, weaver- 
 bird, bishop-bird, whidah-tinch, manoikiu, lion, caffre-buf- 
 falo, spotted and striped hyena, leopard, and monkeys of 
 the hussar, calathrix. mandril, mona and dog-faced baboon 
 varieties, of Africa; the elephant, nylghau-antelope, Sam- 
 bur-deer, leopard, wild-cat, ichneumon. Bengal tiger, hog- 
 deer, axis-deer, Brahmin cow, Zebu cow; yak and sacred 
 and bonnet monkey, of India; the sheep, mandarin duck, 
 and gold and silver pheasants, of China; the black panther, 
 of Malacca; the crowned and demoiselle crane, of the Balea- 
 ric Islands; the paroquet, blue mountain lory, wedged-tailed 
 eagle, laughing kingfisher, piping crow, opossum and cock- 
 atoo, of Australia; the agouti, of the West Indies; the black 
 and gray squirrel, blue-jay, quail, dove, beaver, nightingale, 
 "Wapiti deer, bison, black bear, musk-rat. wild-duck and 
 horned-owl, of America; the indigo-bird, cardinal, parrot, 
 paca, tiger-cat«»razor-bill, tapir, puma-lion, jaguar, macaw. 
 alpacca, llama, condor and spider-monkey, of South Ameri- 
 ca; the sea-lion, of the Pacific ocean; the seal, white-bear 
 and white-fox, of the Arctic regions; beside varied speci- 
 mens of the love-bird, wild cat. vulture, deer, alpacca, mou- 
 fion, goat, pea-fowl, chough, pheasant, beaver, cow. camel, 
 duck, swan, emu, cockatoo, paroquet, monkey, squirrel, 
 dove, serpent, crocodile, lizard, eagle-owl, falcon, pelican, 
 wax-bill, etc., from many different parts of the world, sam- 
 ples of most of which have already been credited to other
 
 BY LAND AND SEA. W 
 
 places. Though "lumped" together, bird and beast, in this 
 enumeration, their proper separate accommodations have 
 already been mentioned, for they can only be "a happy fam- 
 ily" when rooming apart. 
 
 The largest "lake" at the Belle Vue gardens is more than 
 eight acres iu area, and numerous pleasure boats and 
 small steimers ply upon it. Near it are steam-horse and ve- 
 locipede rings. On the long strip of land in the other 
 "large lake" is the great sensation of Belle Vue. Danson's 
 grand open-air picture, — a different one each year. Thi# 
 year the scene is the battle-field of Tel-El-Kebir. The pic- 
 ture is many immense pieces of magnificent scene-paint- 
 ing, covering thousands of square yards of canvas, and each 
 piece set apart from its next neighbor, which both heightens 
 the effect of the admirable perspective and permits the up- 
 and-down-hill maneuvering of a large body of performers, 
 who. provided with a band of music and accompanied by a 
 number of baggage and ammunition laden camels and 
 dromedaries, approach the now historical conflict in the 
 evening, at 9:45 o'clock, just as the long twilight begins to 
 yield to darkness, or lets the moon have undivided sway. 
 The performers are in regimental and native Egyptian at- 
 tire. As they march, the first deep booming gun sounds. 
 In the light of camp tires, seemingly half extinguished, are 
 seen the fresh water canal, the village of Tel-El-Kebir, the 
 round tower and the desert and mountains in the distance. 
 In the fore-ground are the batteries, and the lines, redoubts 
 and entrenchments of the Egyptians, upon whom the Brit- 
 ish and Indian forces are marching in the night. As the 
 warning gun thunders out from the Egyptian lines, the 
 whole front of the position breaks into jets of red flame 
 from rifle and cannon, the enemy pours in upon the Egyp- 
 tian forces and, in fifteen minutes, all is over. But,
 
 M BY LA XT) AND SEA. 
 
 during those fifteen minutes, the great scenic picture is 
 a tumult of well acted strife, illumined by a pyrotechnic 
 display of a dazzling grandeur, unsurpassable — one may say. 
 A grand transparency, in myriads of jets of colored fire, 
 closes the performance, and the night nov looks black and 
 dark as the people present make their way to carriages, 
 tram-cars or railways near the gates of the gardens. 
 
 The last letter gave the graver aspect of "the dark city"— 
 at least a peep at it. This treats upon its brighter public 
 spots, [t may have been worth the time to look at these 
 things, Manchester being a place with which even the best 
 travelled American tourists have little acquaintance, a^ a 
 rule
 
 BY LAND AND SEA. 39 
 
 VII. 
 
 THE TRAMWAY AND ITS CARS — THE HIGHWAY AND ITS 
 BEASTS OF BURDEN — A TRIP ON THE IRISH SEA TO THE 
 ISLE OF MAN. 
 
 Douglas, Isle of Man, July 25. 
 A peculiarity of Liverpool and Manchester is that the 
 roadway of their streets is almost exclusively paved with sets 
 of stone of flinty hardness. The tramways, or rails upon 
 which the street cars run, are laid in this pavement and 
 level with its surface. The tramway is a perfectly flat rail, 
 with a groove indented along it, and the presence of 
 the rail in the pavement can hardly be detected by 
 the foot of a person walking across it, and will not be 
 noticed unless he is thinking about it. Thus these tram- 
 ways are no obstacle to the flat tired wheels of ordinary vehi- 
 cles swerving across the rails. The wheels of the tram-cars 
 are each slightly but sufficiently flanged to fit into the rail 
 grooves. Each tram-car is constructed to carry nearly forty 
 passengers, inside and outside. The insiders sit with their 
 backs to the sides of the car. The ontsides sit back to back, 
 each of the two rows of them facing the buildings along the 
 sides of the streets. They reach the roof of the tram-car by 
 a comfortable winding stairway, whose outside is covered or 
 screened so as to prevent an undue display of ankles on 
 the part of the numerous ladies who prefer the outside of 
 the car to its interior. The fares for ordinary distances are 
 three-pence inside and two-pence outside. Weather per- 
 mitting, the outside is much the pleasantest part of the car.
 
 40 BY LAND AND SEA. 
 
 This opinion may be thought to indicate a cheap and vulgar 
 mind, influenced by the "tuppence." The "thrippenny" pas- 
 senger certainly sets more for his money. His toes are 
 more trodden upon and stabbed by the points of umbrellas 
 and sticks, more elbows are stuck in his eye, he is more sat 
 down upon in mistake for a seat, and, if an old lady with a 
 stony glare enters the car. he is more apt than not to find her 
 plant herself opposite him and stare him out of bis counte- 
 nance all the rest of the trip. Manchester has an admirable 
 feature in its tramways. Except at necessary dead ends of 
 lines in the suburbs, the tracks at the termini loop round a 
 block, the cars thus going back upon their return trip on 
 another track, parallel to the one oil which they came. This 
 prevents the necessity and delay of switching. The whole 
 arrangement is patented, and perhaps its most minions 
 point is the way in which, when it is necessary to turn a car 
 back at the dead end of the line, the horses simply walk 
 round in a semi -circle, the body of the car revolving with 
 them on a pivot on the wheels-truck beneath, (somewhat af- 
 ter the fashion of t lie swinging of the bridge-draw at Rock 
 Island, and similarly bolted in place when the act of revers- 
 ing the car is completed.) 
 
 Another feature of the roads of Liverpool and Manchester 
 is noteworthy. This is the "beasts of burden" which toil 
 along them. Of course, there are plenty of fancy carriage 
 horses, which "toil not neither do they spin," except meta- 
 phorically. These are not referred to. nor are the useful 
 light-draft horses, which are employed formally readily im- 
 agined purposes The "beasts of burden" intended to be 
 specified are the heavy-draft horses, those huge cart horses 
 used to draw lurries and other vehicles constructed to carry 
 heavy loads. A lurry (the word is local' is a four-wheeled 
 wagon or drav without ends or sides, the loading of weightv
 
 BY LAST) AND SEA. 41 
 
 press-packed bales of uncertain dimensions being found to 
 be easiest on this shape of vehicle. The truck of the lurry 
 is of great strength and the wheels are massive, their broad 
 tires suggesting stout armor plate. The usual motive power 
 of the lurry is one horse, harnessed in the shafts. If more 
 power is needed, particularly in going up-hill, a second 
 horse is placed in front of the shaft horse, and sometimes a 
 third horse is added, also tandem. More horses can be 
 strung on ahead, of course, if necessary A fine lurry horse 
 weighs probably not far from 3,000 pounds, is so symmetri- 
 cally proportioned as not to look at all awkward and is 
 usually as rounded as an apple and as sleek as velvet, its full 
 mane and tail beiuj,' dressed with scrupulous care and the 
 shaggy hair of its fetlocks assiduously combed. It some- 
 how conveys the impression of a pet lion, though that can 
 only be by its evidence of majestic, controlled strength. 
 These horses are perfectly broken and obey their teamsters- 
 commands at the mere word, while in many situations seem- 
 iiiLf to exercise a human intelligence in manceuvering in 
 densely crowded and sometimes very narrow streets. It is 
 a si^'ht to the unaccustomed stranger to see a lurry horse 
 start off with a load. A word from the teamster and the big 
 animal leans firmly forward into its collar. Its movements 
 then are steadily cumulative. A dull snapping sound is 
 heard as the links of the harness adjust their accurate fit to 
 the strain, the shoes of the hind feet grasp the flinty square- 
 set stones of the level pavement, their large calks having a 
 roomy tit between the flat tops of the stones; the haunches 
 steadily strain till dee]) creases appear where the greatest 
 roundness was, the wheels of the lurry begin to revolve, and, 
 as the horse's hind legs reach their stretch, the powerful 
 calks of the shoes on the fore-feet grip the pavement in 
 earnest, sparks of fire fly as the hind shoes release their
 
 4-2 BY LAX I) A XI) SKA 
 
 grasp and take fresh foot-hold, the heavily loaded lurry has 
 "way" and moves off ponderously. Au exhibition of great 
 strength, intelligently used, is generally a fascinating sight, 
 and it is no unusual thing to see the Manchester man pause 
 and glance admiringly while the spectacle of a lurry horse, 
 starting a load which is nearly up to its full strength, is in 
 process. And the teamsters, who are extremely proud of 
 their individual horses, are happy men at such moments. 
 
 One other draft animal should be mentioned. This is 
 the donkey, that unconscious cause of so much facetious- 
 ness; whose unfortunateness in the matter of ears and voice 
 are so often thrown into its teeth by persons who grudge 
 it the possession of the estimable quality of firmness. 
 Quite a surprising number of donkeys are used in Liver- 
 poo] and Manchester, and it is fair to say that these patient 
 and cheaply maintained beasts seem to be generally well- 
 treated. Otherwise they would not be seen trudging or trot- 
 ting along the streets with the sprightliness they show. In- 
 deed it is rare to see one with the downcast appearance which 
 follows ill-usage. The vehicles drawn by the donkeys are, 
 almost invariably, small, two-wheeled carts, specially con- 
 structed for them, and some of the carts are very nicely put 
 together. One of these donkeys thinks nothing of trotting 
 contentedly along, at a good speed, with a couple of men, 
 or three or four boys. or. on Sundays, its fat Master and 
 plump Missis in the cart. 
 
 And ponies, about the size of the donkeys, are also quite 
 the thing with a certain class. The proprietor of one of 
 these, got up regardless of expense, with the brim of his 
 shining silk hit very far down toward hi- nose and the tip of 
 hi- cigar or the bowl of his fancy short pipe tilted up to his 
 hat-brim, sitting in the attitude of a fashionable Jehu and 
 having altogether an indescribably knowing aspect, may oc-
 
 BY LAND AND SEA. 43 
 
 casionally be seen, out for the day. His name is probably 
 'Arry, or it may be 'Orace or Halbert. Street boys look on 
 him with a lingering envy and are consumed with speechless 
 admiration. To them he is the gemiine article, the summit 
 of their social pinnacle. They know it, as does he. and 
 there is a kindly glance of understood and accepted appre- 
 ciation in his eyes as he bestows a passing look down upon 
 the Arabs. From his little pony cart it is not very far down, 
 and maybe the secret of the admiration is partly because he 
 is so splendid and yet so lowly. Any way, the boys re- 
 serve their offending sarcasm for such high-mounted speci- 
 mens of "Arry's class-superiors as look as if they would be 
 sorely worsted in an effort to earn their own living and that 
 of a pony as well. 
 
 Large delegations of the Lancashire multitude, and num- 
 bers from other points, generally manufacturing places, reg- 
 ularly make their summer trip to the Isle of Man, an island 
 centrally situated in the Irish sea, between Great Britain 
 and Ireland. The island, not taking extreme points into 
 consideration, may be said to be thirty miles long and ten 
 wide; say seventy miles in circumference and containing an 
 area of about 225 square miles. Its middle is on 54 degrees, 46 
 minutes north latitude. The parallel of its northernmost point 
 is that of Downpatrick, Ireland, and Ambleside, England; 
 the parallel of its most southerly point being that of Kil- 
 more, Ireland, and Lancaster and York, England. Being 
 equidistant, some sixty to seventy miles, from its neighbors, 
 the mountainous coast scenery of Ireland, Scotland and 
 England can be readily seen from its high ranges on a clear 
 day, and Welsh moimtains, still further off, are also often 
 distinctly visible. The town of Douglas, which is in all re- 
 spects the most important on the island, is the one to which 
 the large majority of the visitors go, making incursions
 
 t4 BY LAND AND SEA. 
 
 thence by carriage, railway, or on foot, to the many points 
 
 of interest in other parts of the island. Swift 1 steam- 
 
 ers run from several ports in the different countries to the 
 island, but principally from Liverpool and Barrow. The 
 average sea passage from Liverpool, seventy-five miles to 
 Douglas, is made in four and a half hours. The voyager 
 goes 011 hoard from the Prince's Pier. Liverpool, and proba- 
 bly finds that he has 70!) or 800 voyagers to shire the three- 
 deck accommodation. Uppermost is the promenade deck, 
 next is the saloon deck, the lowest being the deck contain- 
 ing the dining saloon. Different boats have different ar- 
 rangements, but these will do for an idea. The seat accom- 
 modation on all the decks is excellent, that (if the saloon 
 proper being all of the "ohdet-me-lie-down-and-die" order, 
 luxurious little lounge berths with soft pillows. A channel 
 passage is notoriously disastrous to poor sailors, and it must 
 be admitted that the steamers often roll on a swell and a 
 cross-sea. even without any wind worth mentioning, all the 
 way from port to harbor. But the way in which so many 
 passengers agonize themselves with sea-sickness on the 
 journey is remarkable, their suffering in some instances be- 
 ing truly pitiable to witness. And th- well can hardly help 
 seeing, and must hear and otherwise perceive, the sick. 
 Then- is no chance of any practical retirement. The keen 
 eyes of the experienced stewards instantly spot those whom 
 nausea is overpowering, a commodious tin receptacle of 
 spittoon pattern is invitingly placed at the feet of each vic- 
 tim, ami — the vessel rolls on. For those who have sea legs 
 and stomachs, and they are a respectable number, the pas- 
 sage is a delightful and exhilarating trip. The tightly built 
 ami beautiful steamer speeds on with pleasantly exciting 
 commotion, its buzzing paddles dashing the water in froth- 
 ing heaps behind them on either hand, and its straight, thin
 
 BY LAXD AXD SEA. 45 
 
 stem cutting the chopping seas into hillocks of leaping spray. 
 There is music on board, too; a blind man who performs 
 superbly on a concertina in one part of the boat, and, in an- 
 other, an Englishman in a Scotch cap, who plays patriotic 
 British and Irish airs upon a Welsh harp. He plays well 
 and the pathetic, even plaintive melody which seems to un- 
 derlie almost all national music, is swept on the light breeze 
 with a peculiarly soothing sound. Distant ships and steam- 
 ers are quizzed through binocular glasses and telescopes for 
 a while, but, when the steamer is within good sight of land, 
 everything else is subordinate to the interest excited by the 
 rock-bound island, looming ahead and gradually revealing 
 what is claimed to be the loveliest bay in the world, with the 
 picturesque Tower of Eefuge on the dangerous rock in its 
 centre, and the still more picturesque houses of the old 
 town rising, as if upon ascending terraces, in the back- 
 ground, every shade of green carpeting the sloping, many- 
 headed highlands, from waving wheat to dark hued gorse 
 and heather, down to the sharp face of the seaboard, where 
 all verdure abruptly ceases, except in sheltered nooks. The 
 water gradually shoals, and the strange translucence it has 
 here is becoming apparent. In a minute or two the sea- 
 weed meadows covering the rocky bottom of the bay will be 
 to be seen through the deceptive purity of the crystalline 
 water, the gun from Douglas head has sounded away aloft, its 
 echaes scarcely ceasing to reverberate from Banks' How 
 and the crescent of mountains when the Battery Pier is pass- 
 ed, and the gun from Fort Anne booms on the port beam as 
 the steamer dashes up with a short check to the Victoria 
 Pier, where crowds await her arrival. It is at this moment 
 that the pent-up breath of excitement escapes in sighs of 
 satisfaction from the bosoms of the passengers, and they 
 say, with one accord: "Well, we're there?"
 
 46 BY LAXD AND SEA. 
 
 VIII. 
 
 MONA'S ISLE — ITS GOVERNMENT AND AREA — THE THREE 
 LEGS — A PARADISE OF FLOWERS AND FRUIT — A RUGGED 
 SEA COAST — A BATHING PLACE — "HI KELLY!'' 
 
 Douglas, Isle of Man, Aug 4. 
 The Isle of Man, like the world itself, is pre-historio. It is 
 also known as Monti's Isle. The word Man is said to be an 
 abbreviation of the Manx word Manuin, or Meadhon-in, sig- 
 nifying Middle Island (between Scotland, Ireland and Eng- 
 land). Mona is said to be from Mon, meaning isolated. The 
 population of the island, according to census returns made 
 three weeks ago, is 54,089, not including men at sea. Sixty 
 years ago, the population was 40,081, the strongly emigrative 
 habits of its prolific people causing the increase to seem 
 small. The emigration has been chiefly to America, the Manx 
 people having a great bias toward self-government. The 
 island has its own parliament and law courts, entirely inde- 
 pendent of those of England. The legislative body is the 
 court of Tynwald. the parliament consisting of the Council 
 and the House of Keys, and every bill passed and royally 
 assented to is read publicly, in the Manx and English lan- 
 guages, on Tynwald Hill, to which the place of meeting for 
 this purpose was removed 300 years ago. The electoral qual- 
 ification is, in the country, the ownership of real estate of 
 the yearly value of £8, or occupation at a rental of £12, while 
 the payment of C8 rent per annum qualities a town resident 
 as an elector,— and women are allowed to vote on the same
 
 BY LAND AND SEA. 47 
 
 basis. A great deal could be, and bas been, written about tbe 
 curious features of tbe government of tbe island, but it is 
 enough to add, here, that it works admirably and is as digni- 
 fied as if it ruled a vast continent, or at least bad such a task 
 upon its mind. 
 
 Who was ruling the Isle of Man at the time of the flood is 
 uncertain, but the Welsh had sway from the sixth century 
 to the tenth, after which the country was variously owned and 
 ruled by Scandinavians, Scots and English, aud its coat of 
 arms was a ship in full sail until, in 1270, Alexander of Scot- 
 land changed it to "the three legs," its heraldic badge now 
 for over GOO years, and bearing the motto: "Quocunque jec- 
 eris stabit," freely translated: "Whithersoever thrown, I shall 
 stand," or "Whichever way yon throw, it will stand," — sup- 
 posed to have reference to its ancient reliance upon the in- 
 dividual help of England, or Ireland, or Scotland, if any one 
 of these three countries menaced it. Tbe heraldic descrip- 
 tion of the armorial bearings is: "Gules, three legs (of a man) 
 in armor, conjoined in fesse at the upper part of the thighs, 
 Hexed in triangle, garnuled and spurred." The legs, each 
 bent at the knee, are uuited at the hips, like the spokes of a 
 wheel are at its axle, and each leg seems to be (literally) 
 spurring at top speed in the vain endeavor to overtake the 
 leg next in front of it. Regarded vertically, one, if not two, 
 of the feet of the legs is mathematically compelled to appear 
 standing, while the other two, or one, are waiting in the air 
 in readiness to relieve guard at the first symptom of a move. 
 The "three legs" are funny, but the people love their quaint 
 symbol and affix it to everything possible, and no visitor 
 leaves tbe island without buying a few keepsakes stamped 
 with the "three legs." An old story, the moss upon which 
 is always fresh and green, is told of a worthy couple from 
 some English town. Quoth the husband: "I tell you again,
 
 IS 
 
 73 r LAXD AXD SEA. 
 
 my love, that them's the Minx arms." "No they isn't." re- 
 sponded the wife, indignantly, pointing with her umbrella 
 to the subject of controversy, painted life size on a sign, 
 "No they isn't! Them's legs!!" 
 
 A recent competent authority says that ''the Isle of Man is 
 thirty- three miles long, twelve miles in greatest width, and 
 has an area of 150.000 acres, two-thirds under cultivation. At 
 its southwestern extremity is an islet, known as the Calf of 
 Man. containing HOI l acres, a portion of which is under cultiva- 
 tion. A chain of lofty hills traverses the island longitudinally. 
 The coast line is very hue. with bold, lofty headlands and 
 beautiful sweeps of bay. The sea has a clearness rarely 
 seen. The climate is like that of the south of Devonshire. 
 England: moist and mild, ami the vegetation is peculiarly 
 abundant. Flowers, which in the greater part of England 
 require shelter in winter, flourish in the open air all the year 
 round and attain extraordinary dimensions." Hydrangeas 
 are almost trees and the hedgerows are of fuchsia, privet and 
 hawthorn, usually clipped to nearly the height of a man. but 
 sometimes allowed to grow three or four feet higher. To see 
 a dense, impenetrable hedge of fuchsia, crimsoned with its 
 multitude of drooping flowers, as at this season, is a lovely 
 vision. There is one. near where these lines are written, the 
 trunk of each fuchsia of which is that of a tree, from rive to 
 seven inches in diameter. In front of a house, within half 
 a mile, grows a handsome palm tree, perhaps twenty feet 
 high, of the kind usual'y seen in the great hot houses of 
 "show" places. Hoses are in marvelous profusion and vari- 
 ety, and the air s,-,-ms sometimes overpowering with the 
 scent of ihein. combined with that of the prodigal wealth of 
 other kinds of flowers. Wild flowers line the roads, and the 
 houses, particularly the smaller ones in the country, are al- 
 most imbedded in flowers, wild and cultivated. These
 
 BY LA XI) A XI) SEA. 49 
 
 things sound like a romance, and are, in effect to unaccus- 
 tomed eyes, "a dream come true." Fruit follows bloom, in 
 'uxuriance. One strawberry, the largest in the box (costing 
 live pence) bought at a shop a few days ago, measured in 
 circumference seven inches one way and six inches the 
 other way. Miss Todd, proprietress of one of the numer- 
 ous strawberry gardens of Douglas and vicinity, selected the 
 largest and best of one day's picking in her garden and 
 found that twenty-four of the strawberries completely cover- 
 ed a china plate, from outside rim to outside rim, a diame- 
 ter of nine and a half inches. Fifteen of them covered the 
 plate's surface and the other nine made up the pyramid in- 
 to which a show plate of strawberries is usually shaped. 
 •Jargonelle pears, greengage and dark plums, black, red and 
 white currants, raspberries, gooseberries, apples, grapes 
 red and white-heart cherries, vegetable marrows, etc , some 
 going out and others coining in. look and taste well, but 
 the strawberry mow beginning to go out) is king of all. He 
 is, of course, very numerously eaten with cream, but those 
 who have reduced the eating of him to a tine art obtain his 
 tine flavor to the fullest degree in a different way. By them, 
 he is divided by a fruit knife into two or three slices, accord- 
 ing to size. The cut surfaces are then gently dabbed on 
 
 loaf sugar ground to dust, and but why excite emotions 
 
 which cannot possibly be gratified until another strawberry 
 season comes round? 
 
 Douglas is a town of 15.000 inhabitants and has an enor- 
 mous patronage in the line of visitors, whose average stay 
 is a week or ten days. During the height of the season as 
 many as 30,000 visitors are accommodated at once. The 
 streets are alive with most attractive shops and marts and 
 the endless throng of persons during the season leave a 
 great deal of money behind them. The pretty town, whose
 
 .",(1 BY LAX I) AND SKA. 
 
 castellated structures and picturesque houses and public 
 buildings rise over each other's heads from the tideway up 
 the bosom of the steep slope of the background, stretches 
 around the arc of the bay for two miles, between the shoul- 
 ders of the two promontories, Douglas- Head and Banks' 
 How (or Onchau Point.) whose arms reach over a mile into 
 the sea on either side, the height of each promontory 
 being 300 feet. Standing facing the water, at the middle of 
 the arc of the bay, Banks' How is on the left hand and 
 Douglas Head on the right. The left half of the shore is 
 partly a sand slope, used for bathing and dotted with a hun- 
 dred bathing "machines, "' each looking like a tall Noah's-ark 
 on wheels, and the slope is separated into two territories, for 
 the different sexes. The males wear no dress in the water, 
 except a tiny pair of very apologetic drawers, while the fe- 
 males are attired in hideous blue-flannel garments, of for- 
 bidding aspect and (they say) incommoding effect. Left of 
 the bathing part, the shore merges into an expanse of rugged 
 rocks as far as the "arm-pit" of Banks' How. Here stands 
 Derby Castle, from which a grand display of fireworks is 
 "let off" at lfl o'clock every night. From the middle of the 
 arc, an iron pier stretches, seventeen feet wide with a pa- 
 vilion at its extremity. l,(MI(t feet into the bay, — which is 
 nearly three miles across between the points of Douglas Head 
 and Banks' How and not very far from two miles deep from 
 the centre of its width between the points to the centre of 
 the arc. Close by the latter, is the inevitable stand of don- 
 keys and horses, not imported from America, but just the 
 same as at Atlantic City and elsewhere on the Atlantic coast. 
 The half of the shore on the right is mostly utilized for a 
 vast pleasure-boat business, and, as in the other case, 
 merges into a hilly stretch of sharp rocks, which would tear 
 the bottom of a ship to rags. Based upon one dangerous
 
 BY LAND AND SEA. 51 
 
 jetty of rock is the Victoria Pier, a magnificent piece of 
 work, fifty feet wide, 1,100 feet long and thirty-one feet 
 above low watermark. It is built of large blocks of concrete 
 stone, and stands where once stood an ancient fort with a 
 dungeon beneath. The passenger steamers generally land 
 at this pier. A short distance to the right, with rocks and 
 some sandshore intervening, is the "'old red stone pier," 
 forty feet wide and 520 feet long, with a light-house at its 
 extremity. Again to the right, curving diagonally to the left 
 from the elbow of Douglas Head toward the Victoria Pier, is 
 the Battery Pier, a breakwater nearly of the dimensions of 
 the Victoria Pier, built likewise of blocks of concrete stone, 
 with a stout, high, parapetted sea-wall at its outer edge and 
 terminating in a lighthouse. Then come some awful rocks, 
 with intervals of pebble -floored nooks or fissures, in chinks 
 at the foot or base of Douglas Head. One of these, named 
 Port Skillion, is a popular resort for men who are good swim- 
 mers. Small caves in the rock serve them for dressing 
 rooms, and little piers of concrete stone skirt the cruel rocks 
 so that they may dive therefrom into the dazzlingly bright, 
 clear water. It is a spot of fascinating beauty, especially 
 when looking down into it from the path edging and round- 
 ing the precipice some 200 to 800 feet above, leading to the 
 Head. On a large rock jutting from the foot of Douglas 
 Head is another lighthouse, serving, like the other two, to 
 mark the only safe course into the fine harbor nearly en- 
 closed by the arms of the Battery and Old Red piers, with 
 the Victoria Pier partially screening the entrance. The har- 
 bor is also the estuary of the Douglas river (formed by the 
 union of the Dhoo, or ,; black" and the Glass, or "grey" riv- 
 ers, ) and vessels ride in it, with safety, during even the most 
 furious gales. In the hay, about half way between, and fur- 
 ther out than, the extremities of the Victoria Pier and the
 
 in LAND AND SEA 
 
 Iron Pier, is a formidable rocky islet known as the rock of 
 Conister, upon which stands, in strength seemingly as rug- 
 ged as itself, the stone Tower of Refuge in which unlucky 
 mariners may shelter, if need he. Many a life, as well as 
 boat, was lost on Conister rock before, half a century ago. 
 the tri castellated tower was built upon it. On this ruck are 
 oyster beds of considerable value to Douglas. 
 
 The names of many Manxmen are, like the tailless native 
 cats, peculiar to the island, though emigration has spread 
 them in the world. Take a few: Clucas. Qualtrough, Myl- 
 chreest. Quayle. Taggart. 'JYare, Cain. Quirk, Christian, 
 Kermode. Rkillicorn, Quilleash, Kissack. Quinney, Qnine, 
 Quiggi*, Quilliam Kewley, Kneale, Kelly. This last is so 
 common that it is related how an English visitor, landing on 
 the pier and desiring the assistance of a man whose name he 
 knew to be Kelly, called out "Hi! Kelly, come and take my 
 bag!" — whereupon twenty-seven porters and boatmen rush- 
 ed up and tore the two handles off the bag in a second. It 
 is the by-word and epitome of wit with those of the visitors 
 inclined to innocent levity, who must give their exuberant 
 spirits vent or burst. It is own son to the query relating to 
 the man who struck Billy Patterson. At any moment, on 
 the broad concrete stone promenade, whose sea wall skirts 
 the right half of the bay. one may expect to hear, from the 
 top of a passing tram-car: "Hi! Kelly!" Or, at the railway 
 station, a youth will stick his head out. as he starts for Peel 
 or Ramsey, and call back to the friends he haves behind: 
 "Hi! Kell-ay!" Or Tom Thistletop, who has climbed on 
 Douglas head to watch a steamer come in. will shout down 
 to Jack Bumblebottoin, who is inspecting the lighthouse be- 
 low: "Hi! Kell-a-a-y!" Explosions of laughter greet each of 
 these sallies. They convey a well understood joke, and light- 
 hearted holiday makers need little to rouse their merriment.
 
 751' LAND A XI) SEA. 53 
 
 IX. 
 
 THE ISLE OF MAX — ITS EQUABLE CLIMATE, BEAUTIFUL 
 SCENERY AND GRAND ANTIQUITIES— RUINED CASTLES 
 AND CHURCH INSTITUTIONS— THE FISHERIES. 
 
 Douglas, Isle of Man, Aug 15. 
 In a pretty little hand-book, the Isle of Man Steam-Packet 
 Company casually gives a few accurate figures about the isl- 
 and, pointing out that its situation, in the midst of the Irish 
 Sea, which, through St. George's Channel, is continous 
 with that part of the Atlantic in which the Gulf Stream flows, 
 gives it the benefit of that strange oceanic current flowing from 
 the Gulf of Mexico. The Isle of Man contains exactly 145,325 
 acres of land, or 227 square miles and 45 acres. Its northern 
 mountains cover an area of 19,898 acres, and its southern 
 mountains 8,495 acres, above the line of cultivation, the 
 mean height of the northern group being 1,545 and that of 
 the southern group 1,355 feet. The small size of the island 
 and the great number of masses of elevated '"land'' within its 
 limited area tend to preserve the equable temperature afford- 
 ed by the surrounding sea. The limited area forbids protrac- 
 ted frosts and intense cold, and it is claimed that the elevated 
 masses, the mountains, seem to store up the summer heat, 
 giving it out during the winter months, thus postponing the 
 rigor of the season until the sun has regained some of its 
 power. Opinions may differ on this, but the mean temper- 
 ature of the Isle of Man in January is 41.40 degrees. In July, 
 the mean is 59.80 degrees and the mean of the whole year is
 
 VI BY LAND AND SKA. 
 
 49.40 degrees. The wannest summer clays are invariably fol- 
 lowed by a refreshing coolness at night, which is safe and not 
 chilling. Thns it will readily be understood that the atmos- 
 pheric conditions of the island are of an enviable equability, 
 and when it is added that the many gentle rains only meas- 
 ure a total of 27 inches in the year it can be understood how 
 rich are the verdure and floral beauties of the land. 
 
 It must sound curious to say that the places of interest in 
 the island are so numerous as to puzzle a letter writer what 
 to select from them for mention, but such is the case, and 
 those spoken of must perforce be an imperfect selection. 
 Across the old stone bridge above the harbor of Douglas, 
 the Nunnery is not far to seek. It is a grand castellated 
 stone building, a residence, covered, as is also its stone 
 fencing, with dense ivy. But little remains of the ancient 
 nunnery, said to have been built in the sixth century. The 
 surrounding grounds are beautiful and include a time-hon- 
 ored "lovers' walk." buried in foliage. Beyond, with lovely 
 gardens and grounds intervening, is Kirk Braddan, the old 
 churchyard of which contains some rough stones of reputed 
 Druidic origin. The stones are supposed really to be in 
 memory of ancient Scandinavians. There are many inter- 
 estin." old gravestones, too, and not a few of them in mem- 
 ory of persons drowned at sea, or slain in battles in foreign 
 lauds or in naval warfare, in bygone days. There is also a 
 handsome new "kirk" near by, in which the services are 
 now held. A race course, with a stand to accommodate 
 1 .000 people, is a short walk farther on. but it is a financial 
 failure. Many pretty roads lead round and into Douglas. 
 but the sweetest is one over what is called the Quarter 
 Bridge, from which, embowered in nestling shade trees, 
 one looks down into the clear Glass river and watches the 
 gliding fish beneath.
 
 BY LAND AND SEA. 
 
 Let it be supposed that one chooses spots to visit, starting 
 from Douglas (three fourths way down the east side of the 
 island) and going south round to the west side, up the west, 
 round the north and down the east, back to Douglas, — by 
 laud, partly by rail or carriage, or on foot. First in the cir- 
 cuitous route comes Port Soderic, a rocky cove, approached 
 by a glen of surpassing beauty. It has three caves, one of 
 which extends several hundred yards underground. These 
 caves are said to have been much used by smugglers in for- 
 mer times. Ferns of rare species grow wild by the side of 
 the brook which runs into the sea at Port Greenock, and 
 there is an ancient barrow, or burying-ground, on the cliffs 
 above. Castletown, in a tine bay looking south, has a stone 
 pier '200 yards long and possesses a celebrated sun dial, 
 composed of a ball of stone with thirteen dial-faces on it, 
 by which, it is said, the time can be told by moonlight as 
 well as sunlight. The castle, Castle Eushen, was built by 
 the Danes in the tenth century and rebuilt, centuries later, 
 by the Normans. The kings of Man used the castle as their 
 royal residence for many years. Its walls are twelve feet 
 thick at the base and several feet thick at the top. Its towers 
 stand seventy-rive feet high, at each angle, and in the south 
 tower is a clock, presented by Queen Elizabeth in 1597. 
 The battlement wall is twenty-five feet in height, nine feet 
 thick, has seven square towers and is surrounded by the re- 
 mains of a moat. The castle is of great strength, and, in 
 earlier days, was often besieged, holding out, on one mem- 
 orable occasion, for six months against the warrior Robert 
 Bruce. Finally, it has a full equipment of the most respect- 
 able ghost stories, after hearing a few of which the visitor 
 does not want to stop there alone all night. Port St. Mary 
 is stowed away in another southern bay, It is a fishing vil- 
 lage, with a small harbor and a fleet of nearly 100 fishing
 
 BY LAND AND SEA. 
 
 boats. Geologically speaking, it is famed for its black mar- 
 ble and very hard stone. 1*011 Erin lies round the west side 
 of the southernmost point of the island (off which point lies 
 the islet called the Calf of Man.) Port Erin, only an hour 
 by rail from Douglas, has a beautiful bay and beach, with a 
 low water lauding pier 310 feet long. At the head of the 
 bay is St. Catherine's well, whose water has medicinal prop- 
 erties, and at the north end of the bay is Brada Head, a 
 promontory of 500 feet perpendicular height, on which is a 
 tower, and the view thence is splendid. Port Erin's in- 
 dustry is the Brada copper mines. Peel is situated nearly 
 half way up the west side of the island. It is the main point 
 of the herring fishery of the Isle of Man, and has a fleet of 
 about 200 boats, manned by about 2,001) fishermen. In ref- 
 erence to the herring, a rare book about the Isle of Man, 
 published nearly a century ago by one John Feltham, says 
 that "herrings are killed with very small degree of violence 
 When taken out of the water this tish gives a small squeak 
 and instantly expires, and, thougb immediately thrown back, 
 it never recovers. Hence the proverb : 'As dead as a her- 
 ring'." Peel has a quay and a jetty 1,200 feet long, with a 
 lighthouse at the end. In the market place is a nice old 
 church, in which is a handsome stained -glass window. But 
 Peel Castle is the lion of the place. It occupies a big slaty 
 rock, called St. Patrick's Isle, at the mouth of the harbor. 
 The rock is about seven acres in area at the water base, and 
 four or lire acres at the top. On it are the ruins of what was 
 once a tine cathedral, and a fortress with a round tower in 
 its centre, older, some say, than the time of the Phoeni- 
 cians. This vast pile has dungeons worth a shuddering in- 
 spection, and of course is haunted by the spectres of the 
 cruelly tortured dead of various ages. The old well of the 
 castle, after being choked up for the last two centuries, has
 
 BY LAND AM) SKA. 
 
 been cleared out, and it is a matter of ceremony with visit- 
 ors to drink a goblet of water from the source at which the 
 ancients quenched their thirst. Runic associations, pure 
 and simple, abound on this venerable rock, and we have the 
 word of the weird historian, Waldron, (1744) that, among tin- 
 epitaphs and inscriptions upon the worn stones of the cathe- 
 dral, "you may easily perceive fragments of Hebrew, Latin, 
 Greek, Arabian. Scotch and Irish characters, some of whose 
 dates, yet visible, declare they were written before the coming 
 of Christ, the various languages testifying by what diversity 
 of nations this little spot of earth has been possessed.'' How- 
 ever this may be, it is plain that these aud many other relics of 
 man's handiwork in the Isle of Man are pre-historic, and the 
 succession of different nationalities upon tie land evidently 
 effectually destroyed reliable tradition such as would almost 
 certainly have been available had the succession been of a 
 more hereditary nature. It is plain that one must use judg- 
 ment in forming a belief about antiquities like these. The 
 void caused by the lack of authentic tradition was comforta- 
 bly rilled, centuries ago, with fairy tales and superstitious, 
 since reduced to writing and published at different dates, by 
 different writers. Xear the walls of Peel Castle is a green 
 mound, ninety feet in length and rive in width. It is called 
 "The Giant's Grave." One smiles at the thought of what a 
 long, thin chap he must have been. He had three legs, 
 "with which he used to spring and hop. from mountain top to 
 mountain top," aud one of his playful habits was to fling 
 tons of rock about like pebbles It is not recorded that 
 Mark Twain ever saw this grave and heard this legend, but 
 he would have enjoyed it and scores of other Manx legends. 
 had he encountered them when "abroad. " Peel is well 
 worth seeing, even if the visitor's ambition is satisfied by 
 admiring its valuable educational endowments in the matter
 
 58 BY LAND AND SEA. 
 
 of good schools, or in searching for gray carnelian, agate and 
 jasper along its beach, and casting an inquisitive passing 
 glance at the groups of caves in the old red sandstone cliffs. 
 A few mites farther np the west side of the island is Kirk 
 Michael, a village with a good beach not far off. There are 
 Runic monuments at this place which puzzle all antiquarians. 
 Bishop (Thomas) Wilson lies buried here. He was Bish- 
 op of the Isle of Man fifty-eight years, was born just after 
 the restoration of the Stuarts and died, aged ninety-three 
 years, 128 years ago, when George II. was king. The epis- 
 copal residence. Bishop's Court, is near Kirk Michael, and 
 there are numerous fine mansions in the vicinity. 
 
 We will now pass on to the extreme northern limit of the 
 island, the Point of Ayre, where a stone lighthouse rises 1(50 
 feet above the sea level, its well known revolving light warn- 
 ing the mariner of the dangerous coast where the tides run- 
 ning along each side of the island meet. Turning down the 
 east side of the land, one travels some ten miles or so to 
 Ramsey, the "northern port," into whose lovely hay extends 
 a pier. 131 yards long by 15 feet wide. Ramsey has a prom- 
 enade (of the concrete stone, which resembles a sort of dull 
 gray granite) 730 yards long and 12 feet wide, with a sea 
 wall shoulder high. The harbor is the mouth of the Sulby 
 river and steamers ply between it and British ports, as well 
 as it having a good local shipping trade. The town has a 
 Court house, a market place and the usual list of churches 
 and chapels. Its population is about 4.500. The sea fish- 
 ing is as good here sis anywhere round the island and the 
 yield of salmon, mackerel, whiting, cod, conger-eels and 
 other big fish is plenteous. Ramsey also takes pride in a 
 handsome tower on the top of a lofty hill near the town. 
 Laxey, located on its bay half way down the east side of the 
 island, is famous for its lead mines and the largest water
 
 BY LAXD AND SEA. 59 
 
 wheel in the world. The wheel is 72 feet in diameter, 226 
 feet in circumference, 6 feet in thickness and contains 188 
 buckets and 48 spokes. The balance at the wheel shaft 
 weighs 10 tons and the top balance 7 tons. The wheel is of 
 200 horse-power and will pump water from a depth of 400 
 yards at the rate of 250 gallons per minute. It was made by 
 a Mr. Casement, a native of the Isle of Man. A gallery 
 above it is reached by a stairway of 95 steps, winding round 
 a circular white pillar, through which the water (brought in 
 pipes from reservoirs in the mountains) ascends. Laxey has 
 a quay, a "medicinal" well, an old "Roman bridge, and the 
 reputed grave of the old Scandinavian, King Orry, is half a 
 mile from it. Trudging down the road, through the pleas- 
 ant little village of Onchan, one gets back to Douglas from 
 one's circuit. 
 
 The many attractions of the interior of the island again 
 necessitate a selection. Glen Darragh has an old stone cir- 
 cle and St. Patrick's chair: five upright slabs of blue slate, 
 with uncipherable inscriptions. By the old ruin of St. Trin- 
 ian's church is a "round meadow" of goblin memory. The 
 land round is the "Curraghglass, " a gray bog of peat beds, in 
 which have been found remains of old Irish oak. Down the 
 side of an adjacent mountain, persons accused of witch- 
 craft used to be rolled in barrels pierced with spikes. If it 
 killed them, they were innocent. If it didn't, they were 
 guilty and the people finished them off forth with. TheTyn- 
 wald Hill (mentioned in the last letter) is the curious an- 
 cient mound from which the laws of this home-rule island 
 are promulgated in the Manx and English languages. Fox- 
 dale is a leadmining place, near Granite Mount. The Ham- 
 ilton Waterfall is a happy relief to a wild region of granite. 
 Ballasalla is a village amid romantic scenery. Near it is the 
 ruin of Rushen Abbey, an old Cistercian monastery. Span-
 
 f,!l 
 
 BY LAXD AXD SKA. 
 
 ning the Santon-burn. at Ballalonney. is what is known as 
 "the Fairies' bridge." It is picturesque, as is also the 
 Crossag. or •Monks' bridge." higher up the bum. Kirk 
 Malew is an interesting little old church. Mount Strange 
 is the old place of public execution. The College of King 
 William, an ini] Ttant institution near here, his eight 
 - 'h 1 ir<hi] > an i exhibiti ms t i Oxford. Cambridge \nd Dub- 
 lin. The Rhenass Waterfall is at Glen Helen, where the 
 stream is crossed by i little iron suspension bridge. The 
 banks of the stream are covered by wild rlowers md ferns. 
 The small hamlet of Birregirrow is where John Wesley 
 pre t 'he i. m 1 ni ■-■ little pla -e of worship mirk- the spot. 
 Glen Wyllin. a thickly planted valley with enticin-! rural 
 i ithways. has two sparkling waterfalls: Si oo^t Vane md 
 
 Ballaskyr. Near Ballaugh is al >g. from which have 1 n 
 
 dug large trunks of bog uak, black and bird as eb >ny, sever- 
 al stone axes and the skeleton of a gigantic Irish elk. A 
 Runic i -- is t : seen in the dd churchyard. In the en- 
 trance to Suiby Glen the river Sulby is beloved of riytish- 
 ers :- a sinful ir mass i <t n >ek e die 1 "the Hill i >f the Sh im - 
 ro 'k " This glen is en dosed by lofty mountain ridges with 
 pr trading masses of granite. - une slate quarries occupying 
 its left side and trees clustering on its bank- all alongtbe 
 sides of the river's torrent. At Lezayre. there is an ivy. 
 gi wn 'hurch. beautifully situated among walnut and other 
 trees. There i- a pretty waterfall in Ballnre Glen, fringed 
 with wild flowers an 1 overhanging trees. Jurby village af - 
 fords an ther sample of Runic relics. Kirk Bride and St. 
 Maughold do likewise, and at Kirk Andreas are some quaint 
 funereal urns. The river Renna flows beneath abundant 
 sh i le thn ugh B ill igl iss I den. with i sprightly waterfall on 
 its way. and there is a st ne ircle dose at hand. One of 
 the prettiest rustic bridges in the island is the one
 
 BY LAND AND SEA. H\ 
 
 over the Dhoon river at Dhoon Falls and the well wood- 
 ed plantation at the head of this glen finishes off a pretty 
 
 picture. 
 
 Another delightful way of seeing the Isle of Man is to 
 voyage round it in a steamboat, the course steered making a 
 circuit of ninety miles. Thus one can best obtain an i lea 
 of the rugged outline of the coast. Th- route is as given in 
 the land circuit: Past Douglas Head. Port Soderic and 
 Derbyhaven. This latter i- a fishing village. Its cliffs are 
 of gr^at height and there are caves and i hes in 
 
 them. Pa-t the dangerous reef off the point of the 
 peninsula of Langness. across Castletown Pay and past 
 its further promontory, a black pile of basalt known as "the 
 Stack of Scarlet :"' past Spanish Head, where innumerable 
 sea birds flock out from the enormous perpendiculai cliff 
 and the vast charms into which this mass of blue Silurian 
 stone is rent: past the Sugar Loaf rock and the fine gi tt 
 adjacent, round the Calf of Man and two great rocks called 
 Barrough and Stack, and so on. round all the points, hea Is. 
 and bays, not omitting a notice of the head-land of Glen 
 lleay, three miles from Peel and nearly three from the 
 Niarbyl Point, whose cliffs. l.oUO feet high, contain caves. — 
 Glen Meay itself being renowned for its lively waterfall and 
 rare fern-. So, from the steamer's deck, the whole island 
 is gradually outlined, one meal is taken on board during the 
 trip, and Douglas harbor is again reached in due course. 
 
 After putting these things into this condensed form, it is a 
 grateful obligation to acknowledge the valuable aid received 
 in so doing from Messrs. Ward A: Lock's "Isle of Man,' a 
 handsome- and able new work of 144 pages.
 
 C-2 HY LA XI) AXD SKA. 
 
 X. 
 
 "A BE-YEW-TIFUL PLACE." — MICH MUSIC WHEN THE 
 HANDS PLAY AND PROCESSIONS MARCH— GUYING THE 
 DUDE — A PANORAMA OF PLEASURE- SEEKERS — SOME 
 CHARACTERS. 
 
 Douglas, Isle of Man, Aug. •2~>. 
 It is not even - one who comes to Douglas who is able to 
 enjoy its delights and those numerous attractions in other 
 parts of the island as well. Most people have not time for 
 all, but it is remarkable the amount of sight-seeing which 
 some can crowd into a visit of a very few days. The cham- 
 pion tourist of all. however, was here last week. It will. 
 perhaps, surprise the reader to learn that he was not a young 
 man. with a temperament full of life and energy. On the 
 contrary, he was elderly, indolent, obese, and looked , is if 
 he was aware that a liver was part of his internal outfit. lie 
 landed at the Victoria pier, went to one of the numerous 
 boarding houses close at hand and stayed there two days. 
 never stirring from it, except, immediately on his arrival, to 
 go and buy one of the many guide-books to the island. With 
 this little volume in hand and spectacles on nose, he put 
 in his time on a chair on the porch. Following the text with 
 one fat forefinger, he took in the whole territory, its history 
 and charms. It was at about 4 p. M. on the first day that he 
 was overheard to murmur, with a dee]) sigh of pleasure: "It's 
 a bewtiful place!" At 11 a. m. on the second day. there es 
 caped him. in low tones: "It's a be-e-wtiful place!" And 
 again, as he closed the book at ■"> i\ m : "It's a be-vew-tiful
 
 BY LAND AND SEA. 63 
 
 place! I shall have a lot to tell 'era when I get back!" The 
 roaring hum of the densely crowded promenade had not dis- 
 turbed him. Italian minstrel girls had displayed their rustic 
 richness of complexion and gay -colored dresses before him, 
 and thumped their jingling tambourines under his very 
 nose; barrel organs, piano organs, string musicians with and 
 without vocalists, solo cornet performers and whole brass 
 bands had let themselves off before him. Even a wretched 
 old couple of impostors, who have been here the whole sea- 
 son, wandering regular beats arm-in-arm along the streets, 
 uttering quavering and discordant yells: even this old pair of 
 humbugs, before the sound of whose approach crowds 
 would break as if a wave had struck them, did not cause him 
 to turn one single step aside from his glorious flying trip. 
 He had come to see the island and was too busy to attend to 
 anything else. 
 
 There have been, during the last few weeks, several 
 demonstrations of a festival nature in Douglas. The chief 
 of these have been by the Temperance Societies and the 
 Orders of Odd Fellows and Foresters. A lodge or two of 
 English organizations come over in steamers on these occa- 
 sions and unite with the Manx organizations, making a 
 grand display and marching miles along the sinuous roads 
 which terrace and approach the steep sloping site of the 
 town. A special feature with each body is the accompani- 
 ment of a junior organization, the youths of which are as 
 gaily attired as their elders. And, on each occasion, there 
 have been three or four powerful brass bands sandwiched in 
 the procession. A good brass band is a very nice thing in 
 its way, but, when four are in full blast at the same moment, 
 variously giving the breeze the full benefit of "Rule Britan- 
 nia,"' "The Death of Nelson,'' "The Eoast Beef of Old Eng- 
 land" and "The Anchor's Weighed," the effectis mostawaken-
 
 fi4 B V LAND AND SKA . 
 
 ing. There is not only too much meat in the musical 
 sandwich, but it is too much of the same sort, unsuitably 
 blended: boiled, fried, roast and dried, all in the same 
 mouthful. 
 
 There have also been here, at times during the season, 
 samples of the Dude. Douglas is a ''popular" watering 
 place, its majority of visitors being of the broad dialectic 
 classes of the manufacturing districts. The minority visi- 
 tors are mostly those quiet, unobtrusive people whose pro- 
 nunciation of English is of English purity, always aspirating 
 the letter "h" softly, but distinctly in its proper place. The 
 honest dialectics, or. to put it more cogently, the dialectics 
 honestly, ignore that letter and, generally speaking, do not 
 even use it out of place. The truly offensive, because dis- 
 honest, pronunciation, is such as the Dude exemplifies. The 
 mincing enunciation of his little flutterings of conceit — 
 thought starved and stunted in conception — the affectation 
 of ultra-purity conveyed by his narrow accentuation (despite 
 the drawling breadth that will creep in here and there t and 
 the slang of his school combine to make him a small mon- 
 ster of vulgarity. Then look at him! A hat far back on his 
 head, a collar like a broad shirt-cuff bandaged around his 
 neck, clothes tight and scanty, as if made for him when he 
 was smaller: agonizing boots, cuffs and necktie, a cane 
 which he never can carry without making some one swear 
 through tortures inflicted by its point or handle, an eye glass 
 screwed in between where men usually have a cheek bone 
 and brow, his chin protruded, his elbows bowed out, an ap- 
 pearance of one of his legs not being used to walking out with 
 the other. and a general air of undoubted superiority. That's 
 what you see when you look, and, when you see it, you re- 
 gard a being who, had he brains enough, would be a "prig." 
 of the "hi'diah culchah" species, and who, had he no inci-
 
 BY LAXD AND SKA. 65 
 
 dental means of support as such, would probably never be 
 known to exist. Fortunately he is few. The way the mis- 
 chievous spirits among the broad dialectic young men guy 
 him, to his very face, is delicious, and should be conceded 
 as an argument for his continuance. They feel no scorn for 
 him as a degradation of good mannerism. Like the child 
 at the Belle Vue Gardens, who bawled: "Eh, moother cooni 
 an' see this 'ere moonkey. vri'eaut a tail!" they regard him as 
 provided for their especial delectation, and doubtless love 
 him. They will strut before him, exactly imitating his gait 
 and gestures, admiring friends assisting in the performance 
 and miking loud expressions of grief at being no longer good 
 enough to keep company with, whereon the mimics will, 
 with relenting condescension, drop them a few crumbs of 
 comfort with a good deal of "Don't-sha-kueow" and "Old 
 chappie" interlarded with explanations that they are now 
 upon the top-most branch of the world's tree and cannot 
 reasonably be expected to be grubbing around its roots at 
 the same time. Then one of the caricatured Dudes (they 
 always seem to walk in couples) will say to his leash com- 
 panion: "Vulgah fellahs, those." the other will look unutter- 
 able disgust, and the mimics will subside, winking at each 
 other with a gravity indescribably comic and suggesting that 
 the spirit of Sam Weller was not wholly a fiction, whatever 
 his personality might be. 
 
 What a sight it is to stand and see these fluctuating 
 thousands and thousands of holiday makers. Here a worn- 
 looking, preoccupied man. unable as yet to enjoy his leisure; 
 next a girl whose eyes and figure fairly dance with delight, 
 as some youth is handing her to a boat on one side of the 
 promenade or a carriage on the other; jovial-looking people 
 who seem as yet not to have picked up friends, persons of 
 all ages doing the grand in their Sunday clothes and keeping
 
 ttfi BY LAND AXD SEA. 
 
 up, for sake of the effect upon the world, the illusion that 
 their dress and gracious manners. are those they are always 
 accustomed to display to each other on a week-day at home. 
 They are happy/ It is their way of enjoyment, this of mak- 
 ing their holiday an idle parade of playing at an existence 
 forbidden to their hard lines of toil the rest of the year 
 round, and it must he a hitter cynic who would deride them. 
 And so the throng passes, some to re-pass and others to go 
 on elsewhere: all sorts of physical presentments and tem- 
 peraments, really alike in nothing, except in the having 
 nothing to do but pass the time as best they like and can. 
 
 Of course such a mass of humanity as congregates on this 
 promenade must have its nuisances. These are two in 
 especial: the baby carriage propeller and the walking-stick 
 whirler. All others are dwarfed by these. It is entirely im- 
 possible for an unprejudiced person not to admire the way 
 in which the nurse -maid engineers a perambulator through 
 the crowd, twice as fast as the crowd itself is moving. Her 
 progress is not aided by skilful steering or polite entreaty 
 for permission to pass. One half the crowd, goiugin one direc- 
 tion, keeps to the right of the smooth, granite-like, concrete 
 walk (nine paces wide'. The other half, going in the oppo- 
 site direction, keeps tothe left, tin- elbows of the two streams 
 brushing against each other along the imaginary centre-line. 
 Thf nurse-maid, with consummate judgment, pushes her per- 
 ambulator along the centre-line, keeping her face turned 
 over her shoulder all the tune, as she gazes at the ribbons 
 and trimmings on passing bonnets and forms her opinion 
 upon feminine dress and masculine accompaniments in gen- 
 eral. Thus she goes as she pleases, for the people ahead of 
 her perambulator, going the same way. see and rightly in- 
 terpret the alarm depicted on the countenances of those who 
 are about to meet the approaching vehicle- of terror. A per-
 
 BY LAND AND SKA. 
 
 ambulator, pushed by a nurse-timid who is staring all over 
 creation, is coming! Out of the way! And out of the way 
 it is. The wheels of the perambulator rub against the skirts 
 of the lines of sauntering femininity, and the autocratic baby 
 pews drowsily from its carriage, with an air of indolent tol- 
 eration. A story is told of one of these perambulators once 
 taking a long-legged man unawares by coming full force 
 against the back of his knees. He sat down, as if shot, and 
 the details are horrible. But perhaps it is only a story. And, 
 even if it were true, are nurse-maids so low in the scale of 
 locomotive machinery that they must not be allowed to fur- 
 nish one little item in statistics of casualties? 
 
 The cane-whirler is usually a callow youth of seventeen or 
 more green, green Springs. He puts his legs too far through 
 his trousers, and does not know where to put his feet. He 
 seems aware that he cannot overcome this latter infirmity and 
 makes no attempt. His hands come naturally in the same 
 category, but art has relieved them of the position of incum- 
 brances. In his left hand he holds a cigar, the ash of which 
 he critically inspects after a series of whiffs, as if he hoped to 
 find it turning into a real Havana, or a good meerschaum 
 pipe. In his right hand is a walking stick, always with a 
 rectangular handle. As he sprawls along, he is observed 
 to give the stick a few occasional slow whirls, the handle in 
 his hand being the axis and the point of the stick describing 
 the periphery of the revolution. Presently, his hand gets 
 well into its work, he pulls with some excitement at his cigar, 
 slackens his pace, and finally comes to a pause in order to 
 be able to curl up one leg. as he whirls the stick round with 
 a swishing sound and the velocity of a spoke in a fast driven 
 wheel. The expression on his face is pure bliss. "Ah, this 
 is coining to th' Isle o' Man, this is!" And nobody seems to 
 think that he or the nurse girl ought to be sat down upon,
 
 08 
 
 BY LAND AXD SEA. 
 
 the feeling being simply one of well satisfied congratulation 
 
 at personal escape from a threatened injury of an unavoida- 
 ble nature. 
 
 As may be supposed, an immense patronage is bestowed 
 upon the boats, tramcars, railway and excursion carriages. 
 Time was when all the carriages for hire were jaunting cars, 
 back-to-back vehicles, the passengers sitting sideways, fac- 
 ing each side of the road. These have been superseded by 
 the use of sociables, which carry a great many more people 
 per carriage. The passengers also sit laterally in sociables, 
 but face to-face and with their backs to the sides of the 
 roads. A few jaunting cars remain in the possession of 
 prisons of means living outside of town. One of these came 
 in. a day or two since, and a number of visitors of the gaping 
 order regarded it with curiosity. It was. however, quite a 
 matter of excitement to one. He was a Lancashire lad. about 
 sixty years old. and had with him his decent-looking silver- 
 haired lass. "Sithee!" (See thee, or see thou.) "Sithee, 
 Jane!" he exclaimed. "Sithee! Yon's one o' th' owd jaunt- 
 ing cars! Aw loike 'em a deal better nor these 'ere new so nt, 
 wheel' yo' sit wi' all yo're toes boouched together i' th' bottom 
 an' sta-arin' each oother eaut o' fa-ace!" A frequent way of 
 loading passengers for an excursion to Peel. Castletown, 
 Laxey, Ramsey, or elsewhere, is for the sociable driver to 
 "tout" all passers-by: "Now for Ramsey! One more gen- 
 tleman wanted to make up the party for Ramsey," etc. The 
 new comer steps up behind and is greeted by the youths of 
 the party with the all-hail shout: "Hi! Kelly!" He treads on 
 someone's foot ami. upon thus provoking an estimate of his 
 own weight, explains: "It's in the fam'ly." Then he jabs an 
 elbow into the mouth of another, who. with polite de- 
 clination, says: "Nay. I'm not 'avin' any. not betwixt break- 
 fast an' dinner anv'ow." At last, he wedges into a seat. and.
 
 BY LAND AND SEA. 69 
 
 as the driver whips up, the "lads" behind him burst iuto a 
 popular song, the chorus of which is: 
 
 "Oh, wot a day we're 'avin', I say! 
 Oh, wot a day we're 'avin'! 
 Oh, wot a day we're 'avin', I say! 
 Oh, wot a day we're 'avin'!" 
 If the visitor's taste is for a more refined grade of fellow 
 visitors than here indicated, he should go to Douglas any 
 time from the middle of June to the end of July. August is 
 decidedly "popular." Many from a vastly different social 
 community than the August crowd would, however, prefer 
 that month as affording them quite a new act and new dia 
 logue in the drama played upon the world's stage by its men 
 and women, the companies of which differ so much in es- 
 sentials and merit that some are uncouth in the rendering 
 which others give with ease and finish. Fortunately, un- 
 couthness has its attractive distinctions. It is never insip- 
 id, and a humor broad and deep, with a pathos — the genuine 
 touch of human nature — inimitably simple comes readily 
 from it to an attentive audience with a grain of sympathy in 
 its heart.
 
 70 BY LAND AXJ) SKA. 
 
 XI. 
 
 FAREWELL TO THE ISLE OF MAN* AND RETURN TO ENG- 
 LAND'S SHORES— SOME ACCOUNT OF LYTHAM. A QUAINT 
 OLD SEASIDE RESORT. 
 
 Lytham. England. Sept 7. 
 
 The last noteworthy incident at Douglas, Isle of Man. was 
 the inauguration of a new life-boat called the "Ann and 
 Mary, of Manchester," (Eng.l built by the national life-boat 
 organization, which is supported by voluntary contributions. 
 The boat started out from Douglas for its station at Port 
 Erin, sixteen miles distant by road, loaded on a large exten- 
 sion wagon, whose wheels were of that vast thickness of fel- 
 loes sometimes read of but infrequently met with in these 
 days. The wagon was drawn by eight heavy cart-horses. 
 which were none too many for the work, for there was not 
 only the boat to draw, bnt also its crew of a dozen men. On 
 leaving for Port Erin, the "Ann and Mary" was paraded 
 along the road skirting the promenade, the hardy -looking 
 crew, dressed in blue and wearing red skull-caps with tas- 
 sels, sat with oars poised, and a brass band marched behind, 
 playing some tune of very serious sound, supposed to be (at 
 a rough guess and in default of better information i sugges- 
 gestive of dirty weather out at sea. 
 
 Then came farewell to the lovely island and its never end- 
 ing surprises in the way of varied scenery, to see which one 
 has hut to keep moving a little in order to l>e charmed with 
 fresh views. The advantage which such a spot has over a
 
 BY LAXD AX I) SKA. 71 
 
 larger islaud, or a continent, is that its entirety can, compar- 
 atively speaking, be taken in at a glance, without the neces- 
 sity of having to travel long distances, over territory more or 
 less barren of interest, to ' r r et from place to place. Indeed 
 it is fair to say that there is no part of the Isle of Man which 
 does not remind its visitor that the island is a condensation 
 of beauty, much in little, a landscape in model, with different 
 sea-views unexpectedly appearing in any and every direction. 
 For a summer change, to persons long resident far inland, 
 such variety is delightful. Only those who see it every day 
 of their lives can be insensible to its attractions, and that on 
 the same principle that would cause the complexity of 
 beautiful colors and symmetrical forms in a kaleidoscope to 
 pall upon the eye if never absent from its gaze. That illus- 
 tration is, however, imperfect, for there are many people to 
 whom the beauties of nature and other beauties become 
 more endeared by their very permanence. 
 
 The return trip to the west coast of England was not 
 made to Liverpool, but to Barrow, a port due east of the 
 Isle of Han and having an important ''pull" over Liverpool 
 in that the steamships and the railway meet at the pier and 
 the passenger's baggage is handed direct from the boat to the 
 train. At Liverpool there is a wide difference. The land- 
 ing is made on a floating pier, from which baggage has to be 
 conveyed on tin- backs of porters up long and steep inclined 
 planes to a hack, or other carriage. Then there is a lively 
 rattle over the stone-paved streets to a railway station and 
 another handling of the baggage there. As to the relative 
 convenience of Barrow and Liverpool as railway points, that 
 depends on where you want to go. Barrow is but a few- 
 miles south of tin; lake district and is also very handy to the 
 extreme north of England and Scotland. For points between 
 the two ports, Barrow is about as convenient as Liverpool.
 
 72 BY LAND AND SEA. 
 
 To persons liable to sea-sickness it is more so, the trip from 
 Douglas to Barrow being at least an hour shorter than that 
 to Liverpool. On the other hand, those who love sea voy- 
 aging prefer the longer passage, and the approach to Liver- 
 pool has, as may be understood from its reputation as a 
 great port, an interest lacking in the comparatively juvenile 
 port of Barrow. Travelling down the much indented and 
 sand-shored coast from Barrow, Morecambe and ancient 
 Lancaster are passed. Then comes Fleetwood, whence 
 steamers run to Douglas and Belfast, Ireland; then Black- 
 pool, and then, opposite each other on the banks of the 
 broad estuary of the river Kibble, Lytham and Southport. 
 Looking a little south of west, straight across the Irish sea 
 from this point to Dublin, or say Kingstown, the line of 
 sight would intersect the north of the Isle of Anglesea 
 (Wales), half way between the Kibble's mouth and Ireland. 
 From Southport, the coast trends outward until, taking a turn, 
 it enters the estuary of the Mersey and shoots round behind 
 the long, bottle-necked harbor of Liverpool. Blackpool, 
 Lytham and Southport have all made their names as well 
 esteemed places of seaside resort, but, as this letter is dated 
 from Lytham, it may be as well to single it out from the 
 trio, the most retired of which it is. Some facts and neces- 
 sary figures are cordially credited to Mr. F. J. Harte, of 
 this place. 
 
 Lytham is understood to have been first mentioned in the 
 time of the Normans, it being alluded to in the Domesday 
 Book as "Lidun." In the time of Richard I, it was written 
 hs "Lythum." For the last two centuries it has been a 
 health resort for a select class of visitors, persons of aris- 
 tocratic tastes, and has never laid itself out to draw the 
 masses. Perhaps it has always recognized that this was 
 the line it was best iitted for, and, in a country where
 
 BY LAND AND SEA. 73 
 
 prejudices of a class description prevail so strongly as they 
 do in England, it assumes the form of a necessity that 
 there must be separate playgrounds wherein various sec- 
 tions of the community can feel sure of herding with kin- 
 dred society only. The day has been, but is now past, when 
 radical sarcasm growled at such a state of affairs. Its last 
 hour sounded when some one of forcible wit quietly inquir- 
 ed: "What are you going to do about it?" — or w r ords to that 
 effect. When a stranger is told that the main attractions of 
 an old established seaside place in England are salt-water, 
 sand, a promenade, a lawn, a pier, and lastly (usually men- 
 tioned first) an unlimited supply of "healthy, pure, invig- 
 orating air," in which "have been displayed the fashions of 
 succeeding centuries," he knows that he has, at any rate, 
 fouiid a spot where quiet people abound, it being so de- 
 cidedly unsuited to those who like to take their sea-breezes 
 with the spice of exciting accessories. Such is Lytham. 
 much loved by its own large circle of friends, folks 
 with plenty of children, valetudinarians and elderly persons 
 to whom lively pursuits of pleasure are distasteful. It is of 
 the "far from the madding crowd" order, and, if the night 
 is not long enough for sleep within the precincts of its 5,309 
 acres, the visitor can spin out his slumber, undisturbed, during 
 the day. It has grown old so slowly as to still seem youth- 
 ful. Decades with it have been as single years elsewhere 
 and its grey hairs have not increased in number, perceptibly, 
 within the memory of man. To be sure, it has grown in 
 size and in improvements of a modestly solid nature, too, 
 but the growth has been that of a mature person who may be 
 heard spoken of as "still quite young." None of your weedy 
 shooting up, such as causes the arms and legs of garments 
 to testify shortness, but a decorous increase in bulk which 
 increases the general thickness and width, and fills out easy-
 
 74 BY LA XL) A XI) SEA. 
 
 fitting clothing to an appearance of well-fed Kleekness. Its 
 vans for bathing purposes are noticeably spoken of as "cm m- 
 fortable four- wheel machines." But they are. in the age of 
 Lytham. comparatively innovations. According to Dr. Hut- 
 ton, not so many years ago. bathing here was a very simple 
 affair. "Each day. at the height of the tide, a bell rang as a 
 signal for every male person to retire from the beach and its 
 vicinity. The coast being clear, one fair form after another 
 stole gently down to the water's edge, enveloped in a cloak 
 or attended by a maid to assist her in unrobing on the open 
 beach. From the edge of the waves, the lady passed along 
 a rising plank projecting into the sea. from which she boldly 
 plunged into the water. Then, resuming her dress, she re- 
 tired to her lodgings. The bell rang a second time and the 
 gentlemen took their turn." The coy. not to say timid ap- 
 proach of the fair nymph to the purifying and bracing ele- 
 ment; her bold plunge, while the maid holds her shoes and 
 stockings aloof from the gritty sand in admiring attention: 
 her subsequent immediate nttirement and retirement, follow- 
 ed by the striking of the hollow metallic implement summon- 
 ing the coarser sex to slop about in the ungraceful manner 
 <>f men. combine to form a series of mental pictures com- 
 pared with which the fascinations of a magic lantern have. 
 literally, no hold upon either sentiment or imagination. 
 Nowadays, if the tide does not happen to suit its time to the 
 affairs of men. even the "comfortable, four-wheeled ma- 
 chines" are no temptation to an immersion deprived by 
 them of its polite "after-you-ma'am " features, and both 
 sexes may be seen going to the public swimming baths, the 
 one whereof for gentlemen is 50x20 feet in area, that for la- 
 dies being, possibly in deference to the smaller size or nu- 
 merical needs of their ] edal extremities, only 30x15 feet. 
 The baths and the public assembly room form a fine pile
 
 BY LAND AND SEA. 75 
 
 of buildings, situated opposite the entrance to their equally 
 modern brother, the pier, the latter of which is a structure 
 of iron, 900 feet long, which juts to the water from the cen- 
 tral part of the long promenade by the shore. The lawn. 
 which is what may be termed a "block" in width, extends' 
 the whole length of the promenade, and that is that of the 
 town, or rather "village,"' merging into a region of docks at 
 its upper end and into a long stretch of sandhills at its lower, 
 or western, termination. It is a territory of justifiable pride 
 to Lytham and has, dotted aloiiL; the promenade side of its 
 length, at its central and eastern points, an "old windmill, 
 with black sails and painted crown," a life-boat house and a 
 custom house whose architecture is that of a square tower. 
 Lytham is one of the principal life-boat stations on the Lan- 
 cashire coast, and. as Mr. Harte truly says: "Many a gallant 
 deed has been done and many a life saved by its means. A 
 noble work is done by these boats and their crews. " The 
 marine terror of the locality is an immense sand bank, call- 
 ed the Horse Batik: "Looking out seaward at low tide, the 
 Horse Bank is seen stretching its dreary length" down the 
 estuary of the Ribble, and "as rich as the Horse Bank" has 
 passed into a proverb from the treasure said to have been 
 lost in it in ships in former times, before the channel was 
 improved and buoyed. As regards these sand hills, Mr. 
 Ilarte's testimony cannot be improved upon: "It is very 
 pleasant rambling among these dells and star hills. The air 
 in summer is scented with wild flowers, and the birds fill the 
 air with sweet music. Lovers of botany can enjoy to the 
 full the many beautiful specimens of vegetation which grow 
 here in such profusion." Beyond, two miles west of the 
 promenade, is a light-house, from whose tower is thrown an 
 intermittent light, half a minute dark and three minutes and 
 a half light, shining a distance of a dozen miles out at sea.
 
 7^; 
 
 BY LAXD AXD SEA 
 
 Lytham is the oaly port l1 ng this se ti a :" ■ iast and ships 
 and steamers often run into it in rough weather. In the w iv 
 of ship-building, it : ;ri:~ int small, but good, fishing ves- 
 sels, md. if course, his i small deet of pleasure b 'it- for 
 the visiting !an lsman to settle his stomach withal and other- 
 wise enjoy himself. Steamers ply during the season t :> 
 - it rt. Blackpool. Fleetwood. Barrow, and one or two 
 of the Welsh and Manx ports it times, inrl there ire num t- 
 ous nice sr •- to be reached from Lyth.am ou foot, or in 
 brief j nrneys I y carriage >r railway, in the course i f me ir 
 two of whi h one may staa 1 U| m venerated sites. : : 
 with authentic tales f bloody struggles of ancient Britons. 
 Saxons. Northmen, and ill that sort of persons who could 
 u t irgue and had never hear! of arbitration. Of one 
 drive, from Lythani to Poulton. . iistance of seven miles. 
 the visitor is promised, is :he reward of his journey, the 
 sight : P<: tit m "seven sle -r v streets with i chui :h in the 
 centre " In in >ther. f ur miles fr m Lytham. a view of 
 the disputed "Portus" of Ptolemy. In another, of six 
 miles, the identical plv~ where Paulinu* i- supposed to 
 reached in Sax n times. And so >n .11 round, in- 
 land, through quiet country hr.es and risti ■ solitudes of 
 old fashioned sav i md especial relish to th -e - ':. »e habits 
 and turn >f min i tit them to ippre date sn -h still - ■ \ -~ 
 
 Those who kn >w Lyth lm well might expe t - 'me t ■ • innt 
 herein of her places : .v .r~hip. railway facilities h t-ls md 
 i Iging h 'tises. h -; ital. m irket h >use, : ul '.: : - jnare, car- 
 dens, m 1 sn h ither things is bell t ■ ■ nstitute the - >li li- 
 ty of t t :.- in general. It is n t ne ess^ry. ':. iwever. t 1 
 j.. i -■ th in refer : ■ their a ?kn ) ide Ige 1 ex ■ellen •- m 1 ":.-::- 
 satisfactoriness t ill concerned. There is ' 11 man- 
 
 sion, Lytham Hall, rebuilt ' •■ - i century igo. but it is 
 private property md need not be referred to. here, farther
 
 BY LAND AND SEA. 
 
 than to say that the living branch of the ancient family of 
 Clifton, owners of the old estate of which it is the home- 
 stead, is evidently held in unfeigned esteem by all classes of 
 us neighbors, and has done much for Lytham itself. 
 
 A word about the shopkeepers of Lytham. particularly 
 those of old-time lineage in its mercantile rank, may not be 
 amiss to speak. They arc remarkably civil, without a trace 
 of servility. If they had made a study of how to secure 
 respect to themselves by their behavior to those with whom 
 their business brings them in contact, they could not better 
 gain th-ir end. But there is probably a great deal more of 
 traditional manner than of calculation in their ways. To 
 representative- of that vast section of the world of trade 
 over whose tongue run- glib saws, such as: "Time is 
 money," " Business is business." and even "Civility costs 
 nothing." -o hiudi a degree of deferential courtesy over a 
 pound of butter or meat, or a few pence worth of some other 
 ::• 'essary, has a naturally good-humoring effe -t. exalting in 
 self-esteem. Pondering over this ind other merits, which. 
 as before intimated, have made .:. i do sustain so large a 
 circle of friends for this quaint and quiet seaside spot, the 
 visitor can betake him--'.:' r i - >me c unf tal seat r. 
 the beach, hard by th- _'.■ iming « iter and the go! len - m i. 
 watching the children turning up the yell >w gr ::^< and mass- 
 ing them in fancied citadels and im its vith tiny -piles, or 
 searching for fresh -hell- or pretty pebbles dong the last 
 tide-line, and perhaps a thought may dit across his mind 
 that men and women who love Lytham learned to do so as 
 children, as their forefathers had done. If this solution 
 satisfies him. then he is at liberty to bring the full force of 
 his intellect upon anything or nothing else, being in a situ- 
 ation conducive to eithei extreme. Or, hi< mmd being 
 readily diverted by some "busy bee" scudding its line to
 
 7s BY LAND AND SEA. 
 
 the sand hills, he may full to murmuring to himself Dr. 
 
 Watts': 
 
 " How skilfully she builds her cell ! 
 How neat she spreads her wax ! 
 And labors hard to store it well 
 With the sweet food she makes!" 
 — losing himself in speculation as to whether the good 
 Doctor made "makes" rhyme by pronouncing it " max."
 
 BY LAND AND SEA. 79 
 
 XII. 
 
 HOMEWARD BOtND — THE FIEST VOYAGE OF THE CITY OF 
 CHICAGO — THE VESSEL ADMIRABLY TESTED — AN IDEA 
 OF THE LATEST ADDITION TO THE INMAN LINE. 
 
 Off Sandy Hook. Sept. 2'J. 
 The trial trip of the new Ionian Line steamer City of 
 Chicago, on board which these lines are written, took place 
 on the 12th inst., a large number of ladies and gentlemen 
 being on board, having joined the ship at Greenock (Scot- 
 lamb on the invitation of the builders. "When off Skelmor- 
 lie, the measured mile was- run. the mean speed attained 
 under easy circumstances being fifteen knots. At lunch- 
 eon, after the trip, Mr. Charles Council, the builder, pre- 
 sided. Mr. Ernest Inman occupying the vice-chair. Mr. 
 Birley, Chairman of the Board of Directors of the Inman 
 Steamship Company, whose name was coupled with the 
 toast '"Success to the Chicago,'' said (as reported by the Liv- 
 erpool Mercury), that the Chicago was not built, originally, 
 for them, but they were compelled to have another ship at 
 as early a date as possible, and they were lucky in finding 
 one so fine and suitable. Many alterations had been made 
 to suit the requirements of trade, and these had been most 
 ably carried out by the builder and engineers. The new- 
 ship would compare favorably with other lines, and, although 
 her speed would not rank with the vessels styled "Grey- 
 hounds of the Atlantic," yet she would compare fairly well 
 and prove an excellent carrier, and he hoped also a profit-
 
 Ml 
 
 BY LAXJ) A XI) SEA. 
 
 able ship to the owners and a credit to her builders. The 
 other toasts given were: " Success to the Inman Company," 
 '" The Builders and Engineers." and '" Captari Leiteh. the 
 Commander." who stated that he had now crossed the At- 
 lantic over 5oii times. 
 
 The Chicago is iW feet in length of keel. 4"> feet in beam. 
 nearly :>4 feet in depth of hold, and is of 5. "201 tons burden. 
 She is berthed for lot) saloon passengers, loo intermediate 
 and 500 steerage, with lower deck capacity for increasing the 
 steerage accommodation to 1.000 with comfort. The idea 
 which impresses itself on the passenger is that she is a lai'ge- 
 bodied. powerful vessel, constructed to bear herself stoutly 
 in the heaviest wind and water She is. in fact, exception- 
 ally strong and possesses a number of extras beyond the re- 
 tirements to class 100 A 1 at Lloyds; is divided into eight 
 water-tight compartments, has four complete decks and car- 
 ries canvas on four masts, the fore and main masts being 
 square rigged, the mizzen and jigger carrying trysails. In 
 proportion to the number of passengers carried, the Chicago 
 has the rinest promenade decks on the Atlantic: the bridge 
 deck for saloon passengers and the -par deck for interme- 
 diate and steerage promenade. On the bridge deck are the 
 smoking room, chart room and pilot house, in which lat- 
 ter is the steam steering apparatus. The spar deck con- 
 tains the music loom, deck state rooms, officers' quarters, 
 barber-shop, etc. The grand saloon, corridors of state rooms, 
 both first cabin and intermediate, and intermediate saloon. 
 are on the mam deck, on which are also, forward and aft. 
 the steerage cabins. A grand feature in the steerage accom- 
 modation- i- that they are in three separate parts <>f the deck. 
 divided by iron bulk heads: one large compartment for 
 families, one for single women and one for single men. It 
 may properly be stated, here, that a more well behaved, re-
 
 BY LAXD AXD SEA. Kl 
 
 speetahle ami prosperous looking bunch of steerage passen- 
 gers than came out on the first trip of the Chicago it would 
 lie difficult to imagine. 
 
 In the matter of machinery, the ship's propeller is driven 
 by compound engines, with three cylinders: one high pres- 
 sure, of) inches: the two others being low pressure. HO inches 
 each. Their nominal horsepower is 900, their effective 
 power being -1,5(1(1. The engines work without need of a 
 governor and their smoothness and silence are so remarka- 
 ble that the action of the machinery is imperceptible a short 
 distance forward of them, even when heavy seas bare the 
 screw and endeavor to produce those eccentric, whirring 
 gyrations of it so well known to all ocean steamship travel- 
 lers. As for location, the engine room is aft of the grand 
 saloon, and the sleeping cabins, bath rooms and lavatories 
 are situated all the way from forward to aft of both. Every 
 part of the ship, down to the very stoke hole, is brilliantly 
 illuminated with the Swan incandescent electric light, war- 
 ranted to burn 2.00(1 hours. The power for the production 
 of the light is furnished by two engines, one of which runs 
 the entire outfit of 2G0 lamps, the other being used to keep 
 going sixty lamps in corridors, lavatories, etc.. which burn 
 after the state room lights have been turned off at night. As 
 for fuel, the Chicago burns lid tons of coal per day. that is 
 to say that, with 1.0(10 tons more carrying capacity than the 
 Berlin, she burns ten tons more coal, while her speed in 
 similar circumstances is estimated to be the same as that of 
 the Berlin. The cost of the Chicago has been S7o0,000, 
 which includes all that sumptuous decorative finish in which 
 every new ocean passenger steamer endeavors to show- 
 something more handsome and elegant than its predeces- 
 sors are aide to display. In this respect, the music room of 
 the Chicago is a lovely example of ornamental work, the
 
 i;y LA XI) AXD SKA. 
 
 whole intricacy of which leads up, from panel to panel, to 
 an exquisite picture in the middle of each panel. Six of 
 the pictures are portraits, respectively representing Wash- 
 ington, Franklin. Shakespeare. Watt. Hogarth and Scott, 
 the others being designs of cherubic musicians, playing up- 
 on the wind, string and sounding metal instruments of an- 
 cient times, amid surroundings of birds. Mowers and fruit 
 of fascinating beauty. It may readily lie understood that 
 tlie Dresden grand piano of the music room has to look its 
 handsomest and utter its sweetest notes to be in keeping 
 with these things. To allude to other points of excellence 
 in the internal economy of the Chicago would he but a 
 repetition of the description given of the Berlin, except to 
 note that the state rooms of the Chicago are a foot larger 
 abeam than those of the Berlin aid have improved accom- 
 modations for the stowage of baggage. 
 
 The passengers on the maiden voyage of the City of Chi- 
 cago were all on board on Tuesday evening. illSthi. having 
 been taken by tender from the Prince's Pier. Liverpool, to 
 the ship, which lay at anchor in the middle of the river, op- 
 posite the pier. Among the ship's company were to be 
 found many of the Berlin's officials. Commodore Leitch be- 
 ing accompanied by his first and third officers and surgeon, 
 and Purser Kavanagh having his former clerical aid. J'here 
 were also on hoard Chairman Birlev and Marine Superin- 
 tendent Alexander, who accompanied the ship to (Queens- 
 town, and Mr. Clibborn, the head of the passenger and com- 
 missary departments, who came to give a final look round in 
 the way of business and extending parting courtesies to the 
 passengers. A beautiful day had closed in with dense fog 
 when the pilot took the Chicago slowly and cautiously out of 
 the ii\er Mersey. The tide running out. it was midnight 
 when the ship crossed the bar and carefully sounded her
 
 BY LAND A XI) SEA. 83- 
 
 way down the channel, tu the lugubrious music of the fog 
 horn. Some pauses likewise had to be made to renew some 
 packing in the machinery. The weather also was so dirty 
 that when the ship arrived off Roche's Point after next mid- 
 night it was thought best to await daylight before proceed- 
 ing up Queenstown harbor. Between (! a. m and 12 m. on 
 Thursday the cylinders of the engine were examined and re- 
 packed, and. at \±:HK the Chicago received the mails and 
 left for New York. The afternoon and evening were fine 
 and the run to Fastnet Rock afforded a beautiful view of 
 the picturesque coast of the county Cork, dotted, on its 
 highest points, by the quaint old round towers of Ireland. 
 Prom Fastnet. the course turned away and soon the land had 
 faded into a mere indistinct outline. The prettiest day for 
 a week to come had ended, and strong westerly winds pro- 
 ceeded to make things interesting thenceforth. 
 
 The breeze increased to a gale on Sunday, and a heavy 
 gale followed on Tuesday night. This was the sort of 
 weather to test the Chicago, and her response to it gratified 
 all onboard of ripe experience in voyaging. Capt. Leitch 
 and Mr. Kavanagh had each crossed the Atlantic over -"inn 
 times, and a number of the passengers had made all the way 
 from five or ten up to forty trips each. The verdict of these 
 was in praise of the easy motion of the vessel, and the buoy- 
 ancy with which she rode over tin- heaviest seas: quite a 
 change from the boats which lie down in the water and are 
 so wet in had weather for lack of elasticity in rising fairly 
 with the seas they encounter. A farther tribute to the com- 
 fortable movement of the Chicago was the remarkably 
 small amount of seasickness among her passengers. Indeed, 
 among the men, the worst case emerged from his seclusion 
 in a couple days and felt good enough to make his way to 
 the bulletin board at the top of the companion's interior and
 
 M 
 
 BY LAXJ) AM) SKA 
 
 write thereon: "Lost, a first-class appetite, of no use to any- 
 one but the owner. " Then followed an adjuration to tin 
 
 finder to hand the article over at once, as it was wanted im- 
 mediately. The voyage was further rendered cheerful b\ 
 the daily occurrence of sighting ships. One of these, ;i 
 freight steamer from Philadelphia, which met the Chi- 
 cago during the gale of Sunday, was an exciting spec- 
 tacle, the wind being dead aft of her and causing her 
 to kick up her heels and plunge, like a typical war-horse. 
 as she drove furiously before it. Thursday, the 27th. 
 was made especially memorable by the sight of a whale, 
 which spouted in the most orthodox fashion, a short 
 distance off the port bow. At ."> o'clock on Friday morning. 
 :J50 miles from New York, a pilot was taken on hoard. Later 
 in the day. Mr. Kavanagh was waited on by a committee of 
 three intermediate passengers, one of whom, with a neat 
 little speech, presented the following unanimously signed 
 paper: 
 
 "We, the intermediate passengers, before leaving, desire to 
 express our satisfaction with our steward's department and 
 with the behavior of this good ship on her maiden voyage, 
 and we wish her and her i r -w a long and honorable career." 
 
 This was succeeded by two similarly complimentary docu- 
 ments from the steerage, one of which was in Swedish and 
 wis signed by the sixty Scandinavian passengers, the other 
 representing the whole of the English-speaking majority. 
 
 These papers seemed in excellent taste as a cordial endorse- 
 ment of the new ship which had proved herself so stanch 
 and were practically the last incidents of note previous to her 
 arrival off Sandv Hook on Saturday.
 
 THE C REG AN CURSE. 
 
 THE CREGAN CURSE. 
 
 Tt was eventide. Ballakillin's face was wet, as sturdily as 
 ever, toward the east, disdaining to look over its powerful 
 shoulders to see that the sun was setting behind it. Leave 
 Ballakillin alone for that! It to said that she once, a long, 
 long time ago — indeed, it would appear, by traditionary 
 dates almost as soon as the world began — allowed her high- 
 est mountain, Moddy-dhu, to glance back at retiring 
 Phcebus, in doing which that unfortunate mountain's head 
 and neck became permanently twisted into the position in 
 which they now stand, gazing always westward. 
 
 Ballakillin was, and is. the name of a beautiful island, 
 away east, among the British Isles. There were several 
 towns and villages on the island, but it was after the name 
 of Ballakillin that the principal of these was named, in honor 
 of the island itself. So the one was usually called "the 
 Island," and the other, almost invariably, "Ballakillin " The 
 ''town." after all. was but a scattered and irregular series of 
 houses ami huts. A noble ruined castle and a lighthouse, 
 which severally jutted forth into the sea, with bold promi- 
 nence, on the tops of rocky promontories of appalling terror
 
 M THE ('REG AX CVRSE. 
 
 to the storm-struck mariner, and enclosed Ballakillin Bay. 
 formed the most striking marks in a landscape which told in 
 early dawn, daylight, dusk —aye. and on the darkest night- - 
 with resounding waves, where the Head of Ballakillin and the 
 
 Murchan Point were. At ebb and How of tide, both these 
 points were especially shunned by the wary: but, at low- 
 water, pleasure-boats and fishing craft would venture around 
 either, and men would discourse fearlessly as they pointed 
 to the awful cavernous clefts and treacherous needle- rocks 
 of the one adjoining Bay. or the towering fiat -faced sea- 
 board of the other — neither accessible as landing-places to 
 anything but birds. 
 
 As was said before, it was eventide. There had been a 
 sharp storm on the previous night, and now there was a 
 heavy ground-swell on the sea. The Liverpool and Glasgow 
 steam packet had at noon labored gallantly into the danger- 
 ous harbor of Ballakillin. with the "Eliza Jane" of Fleetwood 
 — said "Eliza Jane" being without either sails or masts, save 
 a stump of mainmast, obliquely across which was lashed a 
 spar from whose short arm depended a t'nion Jack, upside 
 down, as a signal of distress. The "Eliza Jane" was in sad 
 plight, having ''caught it in the Channel." Nevertheless 
 young George Clucas had gone out in his and his father's 
 fishing-boat to ply his means of livelihood. His father, old 
 Orry Clucas, had endeavored to dissuade him from goingout 
 alone, that day. 
 
 "Alone, dad!" exclaimed George, cheerily. "Why. you 
 know the boy is sick, and besides, he's not much use. any- 
 how. And the boat's yours and mine: so that I'll have your 
 share along with me if I can't have you andyour rheuma- 
 tism/' added he. laying his hands with firm grip on his fath- 
 er's shoulders, and looking into the old eyes with merry ser- 
 iousness. "And what's more, von know. I'm twentv-one to-
 
 THE CREGAN CURSE. 87 
 
 day; aid. I'll tell you, dad, it's not to keep the pot boiling, 
 only, that I want to work in all weathers, but — I want to 
 work. " 
 
 The father knew for whom his son was fretting, and was 
 afraid too that it was the old tale that happens — in its agony, 
 God grant — but once in a lifetime. "George," said he, as 
 he looked fondly at his son's curly fair hair and clustering 
 auburn beard, and meeting his blue eyes. "George, look 
 away over in the nor'east! We've not really felt the storm 
 yet!" 
 
 "See, dad. see! The tide's turned, and I must go!" was 
 all the response. So George leaped into the boat, cast 
 loose, and in a minute, with lugsail and foresail filled, was 
 quietly passing down the harbor bar between "the two 
 points." Arrived there, instead of taking his usual short 
 tacks, his father saw, with practiced eye, that the boy had 
 seen the coming squall, for the boat headed due south and 
 soon passed from view. 
 
 "The lad's not after much fish, to-day, Tin thinking," 
 said the old man sadly. "It's the Cregan Curse he has up- 
 on him — that one of each blood shall love and break their 
 hearts once in every fifty years. He has it on him, and he's 
 fighting with it. Our only boy!" 
 
 The word "our" seemed to remind him of his wife, Mar- 
 garet, and he turned toward the cottage on the rock with the 
 sea-weed garden deep below, where they lived; and, as his 
 rheumatic limbs ascended to his threshold, he sighed deep- 
 ly. It was then but just past noon — though I said when I 
 began, "it was eventide"; and he reached his home, and sat 
 down upon the doorstep, and looked anxiously and eagerly 
 at the clouds and the general aspect of the weather, and sat 
 there, so doing, until it was eventide. As he looked for the 
 boy's boat with a telescope, which hung within easy reach in
 
 SS TTTK GREGAN CURSE. 
 
 the cottage, and saw George appear and reappear, until be 
 was scarcely recognizable in the offing, a heavy sigh of 
 pleasure would now and then escape from his half-parted 
 lips: each deft tack that the small lugger made among the 
 "sea dogs" was noticed admiringly by old Orry. 
 
 The returning boat was just o ff the "Head." when Mar- 
 garet came to the door. "Orry, where's George?" said she. 
 
 "Oh, he's out, Maggie! Out all right!" replied he, gently. 
 
 The old lady was near-sighted, and slightly deaf, and so 
 only heard the word "out," for Orry's voice was a little 
 tremulous. 
 
 "Is he anchored on the bar?" 
 
 "No. He's after mackerel to-day." 
 
 "Orry. your tone sounds to me like a g^od catch. Is he 
 going to do well, to-day? Did you prepare the boat well for 
 him when he left? For," said she. in a somewhat apprehen- 
 sive tone, 'it seems to me the wind is rising, and." as she 
 looked up at the clock, "the flow is on. and I would like to see 
 the boy home. I would like to see the hoy home. He can't 
 surely be gone to leeward, to Mylchriest's bay! Well!" ex- 
 claimed the old lady, arranging the reflector behind a bright 
 particolored light which she placed in the window, 'it' he 
 is, I am sorry for the boy to-night. There's our lighthouse.'' 
 
 Then Orry came in out id' the growing darkness; and 
 prodigiously slapped his wife Margaret on the back - , thereby 
 causing her a violent tit of coughing. "Maggie," said he. 
 "do you put some supper on the table, while I go down tow n 
 to get some tobacco." 
 
 "Tobacco! Why you've got plenty! the box is half full!" ex- 
 claimed his wife, but he appeared mU to have heard her. 
 for he was gone, and was proceeding to the business portion 
 of the town with more celerity than his rheumatic limbs had 
 promised. Arrived there, he did purchase some smoking
 
 THE CREGAN CURSE. 89 
 
 tobacco. Then, turning his steps in another direction, hut 
 toward Ballakillin Bay. a walk of about a quarter of a mile 
 brought him to the house of Richard Cregan, a well-to-do 
 fisherman, and owner of two boats, a lugger and a smack, 
 which he and his sons worked between them. 
 
 The forefathers of the ('Incases and the Cregans had been 
 born and lived and married and begot children in Ballakil- 
 lin for a traditionally long period: but neither family had at- 
 tained any special degree of afrluenct — unless the wealth of 
 indomitable pride possessed by the Cregans may in some sort 
 In- considered as such. The Clncases were unswerving 
 in their ideas of right, but the insolence of passion 
 never appeared in their feudal dislike of the Cregans. Long, 
 long ago, a Cregan and a Clucas had sought the same girl to 
 wife, ami the one who had won her was slain by the other: 
 who, some time afterward, married this girl, and, when both 
 were old. and he on his death-bed, confessed to his wife 
 that the lover of her youth did not accidentally fall from the 
 bluffs of Ballakillin Head down on the needle -rocks of Myl- 
 chriest's Bay. while getting eggs from the seabirds' nesls, 
 as had been supposed, but was pushed down by him, treach- 
 erously: whereupon his aged listener had cursed him. with 
 such a fearful and prophetic curse, that, while she yet spake, 
 he had "fled from her, in terrible fear and haste, into the 
 presence of his Maker." Whatever might be the intrinsic 
 value or weight of this prophetic curse which ttris aged fe- 
 male ancestor of the Cregans had uttered, one thing is cer- 
 tain; the two families had never intermarried — though, per- 
 haps from their propinquity, more than one couple of the 
 younger members of the families had been discovered to 
 have come to love one another, and (on the Cregan side) 
 been well cursed for their folly and weakness, and at once 
 forbidden to think anv more of each other.
 
 !)0 THE CREGAN CURSE. 
 
 Old Orry rapped at the door with the head of his stick, and 
 presently the door was opened by a tall, haughty -looking 
 young woman, who was remarkable for an abundance of 
 massive tresses of dark brown hair, and large slumbrous 
 •■yes which were a shade darker. Seeing three men seated 
 on the opposite side of the room, engaged in mending a net. 
 with a civil but cold greeting to Ellen Cregan, Orry pushed 
 past her. and at once began to state his errand. Strangely 
 and quaint enough his words must have sounded in the ears 
 of his listeners, as he leaned on his stick and confronted them. 
 
 "By this time George will be on the rocks in Mylchriest's 
 Bay." he said. 
 
 With a hasty oath, the youngest Cregan sprang to his feet, 
 and the other two looked up suddenly, with some excitement 
 visible on their countenances; but Ellen stood perfectly 
 still, and nothing but the glow which was fast lighting np 
 her eyes betrayed that she had heard the words of their un- 
 wonted visitor. 
 
 "Tell us all about it!" said the young man fiercely, and the 
 other two echoed his words. 
 
 Then Orry told them how George had been out in all the 
 squalls that afternoon: how he had watched him all the 
 while with his telescope, whenever he was in sight; that he 
 had last seen him as he was trying to make Ballakillin Bay, 
 off the "Head": that finding he could not make the Bay. 
 (4-eorge was going about again on the starboard tack, to 
 stand off, when a squall had struck him and wrapped his lug- 
 sail round the mast, and the sea had struck him on the beam 
 just as he disappeared round the "Head" into Mylchriest's 
 Bay, where, the old man added, as if with some faint hope, 
 he would be sheltered from the wind. 
 
 The Cregans, who by this time were preparing swiftly to 
 go and render what assistance they could, had, one and all.
 
 THE C REG AN CURSE. 91 
 
 but one question to ask: "What hart possessed George to go 
 out iu the lugger alone, and especially when he nmst have 
 seen the threatening weather?" But old Orrv only shook 
 his head sadly, until, as they set forth on their mission, he 
 clutched John (the youngest) by the arm. and with a back- 
 ward glance at Ellen, who stood in the doorway looking after 
 them, he whispered in the young man's ear, "It is the Curse 
 that's on him!" 
 
 John Cregan Hashed a sudden piercing glance at the old 
 man. but Orrv did not notice it; he was too much occupied 
 in picking his way. as he hobbled painfully along in the 
 track of Richard Cregan, and William, the elder son. 
 
 "Is that why George didn't take the boy?" asked John. 
 
 "No. The boy is sick at home, and unable to work." 
 
 The two elder Cregans strode on ahead, and. notwith- 
 standing a considerable amount of rope which they carried 
 between them, in addition to a stout iron spike — which rope 
 and spike were used in "bird's nesting"— were fast leaving 
 their companions behind, when, just as they neared Clucas' 
 cottage, they paused and waited for John and Orrv to catch 
 up with them, and Richard Cregan abruptly asked the latter 
 if Margaret knew of George's danger. 
 
 "No!" exclaimed the old man. "That's what I wanted to 
 speak about, only I forgot it in thinking of the boy. Twen- 
 ty-one to-day! No. She thinks he's stood out in the Chan- 
 nel till the wind drops, or at least is all right somewhere. 
 She thinks I'm gone into the town for some tobacco, and 
 was getting supper ready when I came out." 
 
 "Just as well!" said the elder Cregan. And then he add- 
 ed, in a softer tone of voice, "You must go in and stay with 
 her. Clucas; you are too lame to go along with us." 
 
 "I'm afraid I am." replied the old man. "I'll do as you 
 say; only tell me what you are going to do."
 
 r)0 
 
 THE CREGAX Cl'IlSE. 
 
 "Of course he's on the rocks, dead or alive. " said Richard, 
 in his harsh, peremptory accents. Orry winced at the word 
 "dead." ''And being there, he must he got off. if we can 
 rind him." Orry winced again "Xow there's two good 
 points, one in his favor, and one m ours as well: The tide 
 couldn't have been on the flow over an hour when you miss. 
 ed him round the Head. It wouldn't have covered the flat 
 rocks, thouc/lt the wind was blowing off the water. And— it 
 wasn't quite dark. Then, the other point is Unit." He 
 pointed to the horizon, where, far away over the harbor bar, 
 far away over many miles of angry water, the moon's disk 
 was seen, rising (dear and bright — its light seeming to shed 
 itself in a glimmering pathway over the foam -topped waves 
 and set forth, in bold relief, on the right hand the frowning 
 Head of Ballakillin. and on the left the sharp Point of Mur- 
 chan, on whose summit the stunted fir trees were nodding 
 and jostling one another in the dying northeast breeze. Orry 
 saw what Cregan meant, without further words. 
 
 "(lo in and get us George's birding line and spike, Orry. 
 We've no time to lose!" said Will Cregan. 
 
 Orry went to a small outhouse where George kept alibis 
 fishing tackle, tools, and such things, ami returned with a 
 rope and spike similar to that of the Oregans. "God speed 
 you, boys!" he said, as he stood for a few moments watching 
 them go at a kind of sling-trot down the slope of the hollow 
 which intervened between him ami the foot of Ballakillin 
 Head. "God speed you!" Two hie tears started from his 
 eyes and ran down his weather-beaten face, so he tinned 
 anil hobbled into the cottage, where his wife sat waiting his 
 return. 
 
 "Maggie," exclaimed he. ostentatiously dropping the paper 
 of tobacco on the table: "you don't know half the news! 
 Who do von think is going to be married: 1 " Then he men-
 
 THE CREGAX CURSE. 93 
 
 tioned the names of a young couple of the "town," who 
 were contemplating matrimony. 
 
 "What a long time you've been! Why. I knew that a week 
 ago. Where i.H George? Where cun he he?" 
 
 "Oh. George?" sail Orry, in a slow, matter-of-fact man- 
 ner, which seemed to imply that any apprehensions as to 
 his son's safety were far from his mind. 
 
 "Yes, George!" replied she a little sharply. 
 
 "Why. of course he's out in the Channel. He'd have to 
 wait until the moon rose before he'd try to come in. with 
 such a sea on. When I saw him last, just before dark, he 
 couldn't make tin; buoys for the wind, so he steered clear of 
 the Head, and went out to sea tilt the moon ro.se. George 
 is too good a seaman to risk his boat." 
 
 Margaret took her husband at his word, and. having risen 
 from her seat to trim the lamp in the window, so that her 
 boy might see the bright signal-light when he came up the 
 little bay, she sat down to supper with her husband, whereat 
 Orry ate hugely, and talked incesssantly — afterward trolling 
 a lively stave of a sea-ditty, in which the singer was set forth 
 as having a wife in all the principal ports frequented by the 
 merchant navy, and rejoicing in his polygamy. He then 
 lighted his pipe and puffed forth volumes of smoke with 
 much apparent satisfaction; and Margaret, after washing and 
 putting away the supper things, laid down contentedly on a 
 sort of pallet near the fireplace, and, while "waiting for 
 George," slept. 
 
 Scarcely were the four men out of Ellen Cretan's siyht 
 when the girl Hung the door shut with a sudden burst of 
 passion and paced the room like a caged tigress for several 
 minutes, with her hands tightlv clenched, one in the other.
 
 THE CRKGAX CFRSE. 
 
 Then she threw herself prone on the floor, and lay there 
 moaning, with her faee buried in her hands. 
 
 Surely the devil was in George Clueas that eventide, when 
 he was so eareless in going about on that starboard hick — so 
 heedless in endeavoring, single-handed, to make the narrow 
 passage between the buoys in that heavy sea and those dan- 
 gerous, frequent gusts of wind. Orry had been wrong: there 
 had only been a hitch in getting the lugsail 'round. Still it 
 was almost a miracle that the boat was not swamped: she 
 was driven upon her side, and all George could do was to 
 steer her (dear of the "Head." and head for the middle of 
 Mylehriest's Bay while she still answered her helm, which 
 she would not do long, as the towering promontory of the 
 "Head" now shut off the wind, and both sails were fluttering 
 and flapping, empty, as if trying to shake out their reefs, 
 while the boat drifted toward the fatal rocks on the heaving, 
 angry, sulky tide. As the little lugger sped into the Bay. 
 and slowly "righted" herself, half full of water, and her oc- 
 cupant, having made the helm fast, was stepping forward to 
 clew up the lugsail, looking upward he saw the light appear 
 in the lighthouse, in the darkening twilight, and the thought 
 struck him that his mishap had been seen, and that assist 
 auce might yet come to him in some shape. So thinking, he 
 altered his ludm. and with half frantic energy baled out the 
 water. Then taking an oar in his hands, he headed the 
 boat as well as he could for a certain part of the shore. "I'll 
 see if I can make the Cregan rock. I can climb up out of 
 reach of high water there." said he. More by good luck than 
 seaman-hiii. he was able to steer his boat toward the spot he 
 wished to reach, and before many minutes had passed he 
 was among the breakers on the Mat rocks, just below the
 
 THE C REG AN CURSE. 
 
 needles, and, as the little lugger heeled over and filled when 
 she struck, he had drawn a deep breath, clenched his teeth 
 firmly, and. jumping clear of the boat, was fighting in the 
 water, which, lifting him like a fragile toy, hurled him. bruis- 
 ed and bleeding, close to the foot of the needles; and then 
 retreated, roaring, to gain strength for a fresh effort. Scarce- 
 ly knowing what he did or how he did it. he gained his feet. 
 and dashing forward over the slippery, sea-weed-covered 
 rocks, he was conscious that he had gained the largest and 
 most prominent of the needle-rocks— the only one which 
 had ever afforded a means of access to the bluffs from Myl- 
 chriest*s Bay. without the aid of a birding-line. He knew 
 that it was the fatal Cregan rock on which the Clucas of old 
 Lad met his death at the hands of a Cregan. He knew that 
 he was clinging to a splinter at the base of the rock, with the 
 energy and grip of desperation. He was conscious that one 
 of his arms was quite useless, and that, feeling himself 
 growing faint and sick, he made a great effort and managed 
 to scramble a part of the way up the precipitous path, but 
 not to high-water mark by some distance. He felt his limbs 
 refuse to support him. and. instinctively reaching a jagged 
 "needle " he cluug to it with his sound arm. and. resting 
 against it. sank down h ilf fainting. Then a sort of dreami- 
 ness came over him. He felt no desire to move, but, heed- 
 less of the heavy wash of the swiftly rising tide and the sul- 
 lenly tierce breakers which threw up clouds of foamy spray 
 just below him. he inertly watched the silvery pathway of 
 the ravs of the gradually rising moon. By the time the glit- 
 terino disk was well above the horizon, he began to fancy 
 that he could distinguish, above the echoing roar of the 
 breakers, the high pitched voices of sailors calling to one 
 another: and he found him>elf wondering who they could be, 
 and what they were doing there that night, and no boat in
 
 % THE CREGAX CURSE. 
 
 sight. An unusually ambitious wave just then outstripped 
 
 its fellows, and drenched him with spray. A piece of rock, 
 about as large as he could have clasped his arms around. 
 came hounding down the pathway from above, and narrowly 
 missed striking his head: and he was pondering how it had 
 been set going, when, with swift, cat-like, cautious step, the 
 figure of a man appeared at his side, and instantly sent forth 
 an eldrich screech, which was faintly answered from above. 
 Raising his eyes, the moonlight showed him the form and 
 features of John Cregan. 
 
 Helpless as George was. the task of getting him to the 
 summit of the rocky bluffs was a slow and tedious operation; 
 but the three Cregans accomplished it. and when, shortly af- 
 terward, the big waves, driven by the tide and the heavy 
 swell, broke over the Cregan rock, it was to find that their 
 prey had escaped from their grasp. 
 
 Leaving the tackle, which had done such good service, be - 
 hind them for awhile, they took their rescued waif home by 
 slow degrees; and one of them went to fetch the surgeon, 
 while the other two returned to the bluffs for the lines and 
 
 spikes. 
 
 Solemnly, and most silently. Richard Cregan and his 
 elder son delivered their charge into the quivering arms of 
 his father, and. having briefly answered Orrv's few hasty 
 questions, laying stress on the fact that it was owing to John 
 having insisted on their going first to the place they did that 
 George had beeu saved, they returned to the bluffs, as was 
 said above, and brought home the lines and spikes. 
 
 Margaret's trouble when they had got George tolled in the 
 next room was painful to witness. She had been quiet 
 enough until then. An intense, reproachful gaze she fixed 
 on her husband's tell-tale, guilty face, when she accused 
 him ami found that he had deceived her— had lied to her
 
 THE ('REGAN CURSE. 97 
 
 about George. ''If I had known, I might have been saying 
 my prayers for him; and you did know, and you never pray- 
 ed at all! No! you enjoyed your supper more than ever, and 
 sang, and smoked, and laughed." 
 
 "I was praying all the time, Maggie." said the old man 
 humbly. But, somewhat after the manner of her of old, 
 Margaret "refused to be comforted. " "And you saw me put 
 the signal-light in the window, and knew he wasn't to see it, 
 ami said he was out in the Channel and safe!" she continu- 
 ed: and Orry bore all she said, and felt more guilty than ever, 
 in that his love for her had led him to deceive his wife. 
 
 The surgeon found George badly bruised, and with his 
 right arm broken above the elbow. Fever set in and for 
 days he was delirious, and Richard Cregan more than once 
 stood by his bed-side, with John, and heard the never-ended 
 words of the Curse repeated over and over again by the lips 
 of the unconscious sufferer, mingled and coupled with his 
 daughter's name; and this set liim to thinking, and he and 
 John talked it over, when they were out in their lugger, fish- 
 ing. 
 
 And one day, when George was convalescent. Richard 
 Cregan came, and called Orry on one side, and, to his 
 amazement, began to talk about the Curse. It seemed to 
 him and John, he said, that a Cregan had saved the life of 
 a Clucas; and that he and John thought that this put an end 
 to the power of the Curse. "John " he said, "held that the 
 Curse bad never hurt any one but the dying murderer; that 
 it was bad feeling between the families that had broken 
 what hearts had been broken. I can see it at home.'' con- 
 tinued Richard's harsh voice, warming; "my Ellen is fretting 
 herself sick since George was hurt, d'he old tale is coming 
 true with her and George! Rut John says truest, it is our 
 fault for keeping up bad blood, and laying the blame on the
 
 THE (REG AS CURSE. 
 
 wieked words of a passionate old woman, mad with nige. 
 And John, and me.— and Will." he added in a lower tone, 
 for Will had but very reluctantly given his eonsent. "say 
 that we would like you to tell George that, if he want- Ellen 
 and sin- is willing to take him, we have nothing against it: 
 and if you want any help about your new boat — " 
 
 And this was the last of the Cregan Curs
 
 VERSES. f.) 
 
 JHEIK SAILOR LAD. 
 
 Aw'm wearyin' o' my watch, 
 Aw'm wearyin' o' my watch: 
 
 '1'lr livelong neight aw soigh, 
 My sleep aw conno" cotch! 
 
 Fur aw'm thinkin' on eaur lad, 
 
 Eaur lad, lass, thoine an' moine: 
 An' tliat is why, at neight, 
 Aw loie awake an' poine. 
 
 'Eaw well aw moind 'is words, 
 
 To thee, lass, aye an' me : 
 
 "Think o' me. dad air moother, 
 
 Woile aw"ru away at sea!" 
 
 Weer is eaur Willy's face? 
 
 Weer is eaur lad's pale cheek? 
 Oh! aw'm "ait ateard to think. 
 
 Aw'm 'alf ateard to speak! 
 
 My cheeks wur red that mornin" 
 They're w'oite. aw know, toneight: 
 
 Fur eaur on'v lad is lost, 
 
 An' aw'm lost wi'eaut 'is seight. 
 
 Hut we are not sure "e's lost, 
 No, no! not sure 'e's dreawned! 
 
 '£ may coom to us yet, 
 \Yi" fa-ace all bronzed an' breawned ! 
 
 Still my 'eart is varry chill 
 
 An' aw loie awake an' watch. 
 Fur 'e may coom in th" neight, — 
 Is th' dooer on th' latch?
 
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