Sectiori-
Shelf -J
HYDROG-
BOOK DiViS'ON
Received
I
THE
AUSTRALIA
VOLUME I.
CONTAINING
DIRECTIONS FOR THE SOUTHERN SHORES
OF AUSTRALIA,
FROM
CAPE LEBUW1N TO FORT STEPHENS,
INCLUDING
~T
BASS' STRAIT AND VAN DIEMEN'S LAND,
COMPILER
FROM DOCUMENTS IN THE HYDROGRAPHICAL OFFICE.
LONDON:
PRINTED FOR THE HYDROGRAPHICAL OFFICE, ADMIRALTY,
1830,
J. Hartnell, Printer, Wine-office-court, Fleet-street.
Annex
5015323
INTRODUCTION.
THE principal sources from whence the following Di-
rections have been obtained are, Captain Flinder's
original Survey, and Captain King's subsequent exami-
nation of various parts of the coast. Large extracts have
likewise been made from the voyages of the French
officers D'Entrecasteaux and Freycinet ; and the Reports
of Lieutenant Jeffreys, and the Remark Books of several
of His Majesty's ships, have furnished much valuable
information.
But Australia has been so recently colonised, and till
lately so little and so partially visited, that a full description
of its coasts, or complete directions for its harbours, cannot
yet be compiled. The more scanty, however, the materials
that we possess, the more necessary it is to collect and
to present them in a connected form to the intelligent
seaman. He will thus be enabled to correct what is
erroneous, to supply what is omitted, and to reconcile the
conflicting statements of previous navigators.
There are no charts of any part of the world so accu-
rate, and no directions so perfect, as not to furnish
frequent occasions for revision and amendment ; how
much more then, in remote regions, like Australia,
should seamen consider it to be one of their most urgent
iv INTRODUCTION.
duties to examine every questionable point, and to record
every useful fact. Insulated remarks may appear to be
of little value; yet, when transmitted to one general
Deposit, they either confirm what was doubtful, or serve
as connecting links to former details, or become useful
hints for future inquiry.
Hydrographical Office, Admiralty,
March 1st, 18SO.
CONTENTS.
Page
INTRODUCTION in
The Winds, Weather, and Currents, on the South Coast of Australia. . 1
Description of the South Coast of Australia, and Islands contiguous,
with sailing Directions 6
King George's Sound, with Princess-Royal and Oyster Harbours 10
Recherche Archipelago 20
Thistle's Cove, and Lucky Bay 24
Goose Island Bay 26
Fowler's Bay 33
Petrel Bay 37
Anxious Bay 40
Coffin's Bay 44
Memory Cove 48
Port Lincoln 52
Hardwicke Bay 61
Spencer's Gulf 63
Gulf of St. Vincent 66
Investigator's Strait, Backstairs Passage 74
Directions for approaching Bass' Strait from the Westward 87
Places of Shelter on the South Coast of Australia 92
Winds, Weather, and Currents in Bass' Strait, with Sailing Directions
for sailing through it to the Eastward 94
Description of Bass'** Strait, and the Islands in it, with Sailing
Directions 100
Sea Elephant Bay 105
Bay of Seals . ,. 107
Anchorage off the East side of Barren Island 118
Port Phillip 125
v CONTENTS.
Pf e
Western Port. 132
Armstrong's Channel 166
Kent's Bay 170
Banks' Strait 171
Description of the Shoret of Van Diemen's Land, and the Islands
contiguous, with Sailing Directions. . . 172
Port Dalyrmple 176
Port Sorell 182
Description of the West Coast of Van Diemen's Land, with Sailing
Directions 185
Winds, Weathers, and Currents 185
Macquarie Harbour 189
Port Davey 203
Description of the South and South East Coasts of Van Diemen's
Land, with Sailing Directions 204
South-west Cape to the South Cape, with Maatsuyker's Islands, Sac. 205
South-east Coast. D'Entrecasteaux's Channel, with its Ports and
Anchorages 208
Sailing Directions for D'Entrecasteaax's Channel 215
Storm Bay with its anchorages 219
River Derwent to Hobart Town. Directions for Storm Bay from the
Westward, Sullivan Cove 220
Directions for Storm Bay from the Eastward 223
for sailing from the River Derwent 224
Quoin Bay and Island, Barnett Harbour, Port Arthur 225
Description of the East Coast of Van Diemen's Land 226
Dolomieu Bay
Monge Bay, Marion Bay, Port Frederik Hendrik
Oyster Bay, Riedle Bay 22 8
Port Montbazin 22S
Fleurieu Bay 23
CONTENTS. Tii
Page
Refuge and Maurouard Islands 231
Winds, Weather, and Currents, on the East Coast of Australia 232
Destription of the East Coast of Australia, from Cape Howe to
Port Stephens, with Sailing Directions 234
Twofold Bay 234
Barmouth Creek 235
Bateman Bay 236
Jervis Bay 237
Shoal Haven 238
Wattamoulee, Botany Bay 239
Port Jackson 240
Broken Bay . . 243
Port Hunter 246
Port Stephens 246
OP THE
WINDS, WEATHER, AND CURRENTS,
SHIPS from the CAPE OF GOOD HOPE, bound to PORT JACKSON,
should run down their longitude on the parallel of 39 South,
where the wind blows almost constantly from some Western
point, and generally not with so much strength as to prevent
sail being carried to it. In a higher latitude, the weather is
frequently more boisterous and stormy, and sudden changes of
wind, with squally wet weather, are almost constantly to be
expected ; especially in the winter season, and after passing the
IslandsofST. PAUL and AMSTERDAM. Islands of ice have also
been encountered in those regions, as was almost fatally proved
by His Majesty's Ship Guardian striking against one in 46 or 47
S. in the beginning of summer, and nearly foundering.
By the ISLANDS AMSTERDAM or ST. PAUL, the reckoning
or Chronometers may be corrected, if considered necessary,
before approaching the coast of AUSTRALIA. AM s T E R DAM is in
lat. about 37 52' S. and Ion. 77 52' E. ; and ST. PAUL in 1 at. Id. Amsterdam.
38 40' S. on the same meridian ; being visible 18 or 20 leagues id. st.Paui.
from a ship's deck in clear weather, and having a good passage
between them. The strong Westerly gales and thick weather
that are met with near these Islands in the winter, render
caution necessary in approaching them during that season, as
there are no certain indications of their vicinity, and the
B
AUSTRALIA, SOUTH COAST.
Winds near
strait.
sea-weed they produce is drifted to leeward in small patches by
a prevalent North-easterly current. Near ST. PAUL, the variation
is about 22^ Westerly ; whence it will be found gradually but
rapidly to decrease as far as the meridian 133 E., where it becomes
Easterly ; and, by a progressive increase, amounts to 7 E. at
KING'S ISLAND in BASS' STRAIT.
Near CAPE LfiEUWiN the WINDS blow generally from the West-
ward > varying in summer from N. W. in the night, to S. W. in
the latter part of the day, though not with regularity. Both
here, and off the South Coast, to BASS' STRAIT, the strongest
and most durable Winds blow from South-westward, and cause
a long swell, which is at all times experienced ; particularly from
April to November, when the weather is generally very unsettled
and tempestuous, and gales of wind at S. W. are frequent,
varying sometimes between S. by W. and N. by E. Captain
Flinders remarks, " The progress of the gales is usually this : the
barometer falls to 29^ inches, or lower, and the Wind rises from
the North-westward with thick weather, and commonly with
rain ; it veers gradually to the West, increasing in strength,
and the weather begins to clear up so soon as it has got to
the Southward of that point. At S. W. the gale blows hardest,
and the barometer rises ; and by the time the Wind gets to South,
or S. S. E. it becomes moderate, the weather is fine, and the
barometer above 30 inches. Sometimes the Wind may return
back to West, or something Northward, with a fall in the
mercury, and diminish in strength, or die away ; but the gale
is not over, although a cessation of a day or two may take place.
In some cases the Wind flies round suddenly from N. W. to
S. W. ; and the rainy thick weather then continues a longer time.
" Such is the usual course of the gales along the South Coast
and in BASS' STRAIT; but on v the East side of the Strait, the
Winds partake of the nature of those on the East Coast, where
the gale often blows hardest between South and S. E. and is
accompanied with thick weather, and frequently with heavy
rain." *
In the Great AUSTRALIAN BIGHT, between the ARCHIPELAGO
Flinders' Terra Australia, vol. i. p. 244.
AUSTRALIA, SOUTH COAST. 3
of the RECHERCHE and CAPE NORTHUMBERLAND, from the
middle of January to the middle of April, the prevailing Winds
are moderate between S. E. and E. N. E., partaking of the nature
of Sea and Land Breezes, and attended with fine weather :
but Westerly Winds and S. W. gales have occasionally been
experienced in this space during the above period, though the
latter are said seldom to blow home on the coast. In the summer
the Wind generally revolves with the sun ; a change to the
Southward being at all seasons preceded by a rise in the
barometer, and Winds from the opposite quarter being foretold Winds onSouth
by its fall. This valuable instrument is here of considerable
importance ; the medium height is about 30 inches for fine
weather or steady Wind, and it seldom falls below 29^ inches.
On approaching the meridian 135 E., if BASS' STRAIT be
preferred to the more boisterous and circuitous route round
VAN DIEMEN'S LAND, it is advisable to steer on the parallel
of KING'S ISLAND, both to prevent being thrown into the bight
to the Westward of CAPE NORTHUMBERLAND by a probable
S. E. Wind, or being driven to the Southward by strong Northerly
or N. N. E. Winds, which are often experienced between 40 and
44 S. to the Westward of VAN DIEMEN'S LAND ; but should
the Southern route be preferred, a ship running down her
longitude in 39 S. as recommended, and having arrived at 130E.
should get to the Southward of VAN DIEMEN'S LAND on the
meridian 145 E. before making the land, in order to avoid
falling in with its rocky Western Coast in the night, from any
error in the reckoning, or being caught on a lee-shore by a
S. W. gale. After rounding the South Cape, a ship not bound
into the RIVER DERWENT, should give a birth of at least 8 or 10
leagues to CAPE PILLAR and the East Coast of VAN DIEMEN'S
LAND ; by which she will escape the baffling Winds and calms
which frequently perplex a ship inshore, while a steady breeze
is blowing in the offing. This is more particularly desirable
in the summer, when Easterly Winds prevail, and a Current is
said to be experienced on the S. E. Coast running to the N.
by E. at ^ of a mile an hour, at 7 to 20 leagues offshore;
while inshore it is running in the opposite direction, with nearly
double that velocity.
4 AUSTRALIA, SOUTH COAST.
southern Ships bound from PORT JACKSON to EUROPE or HINDOSTAN,
Port Jackson. fr m tne 1st of September to the 1st of April, may proceed by the
Southern Route through BASS' STRAIT, or round VAN DIEMEN'S
LAND ; Easterly Winds being found to ,prevail along the South
Coast of AUSTRALIA at that season, particularly in January,
February, and March ; when ships have made good passages
to the Westward by keeping to the Northward of 40 S., and
have passed round CAPE LEEUWIN into the S. E. Trade Wind,
which is then found to extend farther South than during the
winter months. In adopting the Southern Route, advantage
must be taken of every favourable change of the Wind, in order
to make westing ; and it is advisable not to approach too near the
land, on account of the S. W. gales which are often experienced,
even in the summer; and the contrary currents, which run
strongest in with the land. The prevalence of strong Westerly
gales renders the Southern Route very difficult, and, indeed,
generally impracticable in the winter, although the passage has
been performed at that season by ships in good condition, which
sailed well ; but the Northern Route, through TORRES' STRAIT, is
preferred in the winter months, and will be treated of in another
part of these pages.
Marine Baro- The Marine Barometer is always of great service on the
meter. Southern Coast of AUSTRALIA, warning the Navigator who is
making this passage to get an offing from the land, when it falls
with unusual rapidity, and thick weather accompanies an in-
creasing breeze from the Westward ; as a S. W. gale may then
be expected, and often comes on without much previous notice.
Current from The CURRENT near CAPE LEEUWIN, and off the South Coast of
to*B e aMstrait. AUSTRALIA, appears to be principally influenced by the prevailing
Winds at all times of the year, some ships having experienced
constant Northerly Currents, from one mile to one mile and a
half an hour, changing to N. E. as they approached the S.W.
Coast; while others Ifave been set as much as 7 to the
Eastward, in the run from the CAPE OF GOOD HOPE to KING'S
ISLAND, without much error to the North. From CAPE LEEUWIN
to the ARCHIPELAGO of the RECHERCHE, the Current has been
found to run Easterly, in a parallel direction with the Coast,
being strongest between POINT D'ENTRECASTEAUX and KING
AUSTRALIA, SOUTH COAST.
GEORGE'S SOUND, where its velocity is sometimes a mile and a
half an hour. From the ARCHIPELAGO, round the AUSTRALIAN
BIGHT to CAPE NORTHUMBERLAND, it has less strength than
to the Southward of those limits ; and as BASS' STRAIT is
approached, it is again experienced running to the Eastward, at
the rate of a mile an hour. In the Strait, the Flood Tide coming
from the Eastward, and at KING'S ISLAND meeting another Flood
coming from the Southward along the West Coast of VAN
DIEMEN'S LAND, overruns this Easterly Current, the influence of
which is not again felt till on the meridian of CAPE HOWE, where
it is experienced running at the rate of a mile an hour to the
Eastward, and dissipating itself in the waters of the Pacific. By
this it will appear, that off the South Coast a Current generally
will be found running to the N.-Eastward, inclining Easterly ;
particularly after or during the prevalence of the strong Westerly
Winds which blow during nine months of the year in this region,
and which throw a great body of water upon the Western shore
of VAN DIEMEN'S LAND. During summer, when these Winds
are only occasionally experienced on the South Coast, and strong
Southerly gales detach large masses of ice from the frozen
Antarctic Regions, and drive them as far Northward as 46 and
45 S,, the Easterly Current abates in strength ; and after a
fresh Easterly Wind, it is not unfrequently found to change its
direction to the N. W.
The S.W. Coast being that part of AUSTRALIA which is gene- Australian
rally approached by ships navigating to our Eastern Settlements,
from most countries in the world, it may not be considered
improper to commence at CAPE LEEUWIN with a description of
the South Coast, and proceeding towards VAN DIEMEN'S LAND
and BASS' STRAIT, conduct the Navigator along the E. Coast, and
through TORRES' STRAIT, by the route he would probably pur-
sue from PORT JACKSON, to arrive at the British Colony recently
established in the vicinity of CAPE VAN DIEMEN : thence along
theN, W. and Western Shores of this fifth Division of the Globe,
till he arrive on the spot from which these Directions commence.
AUSTRALIA, SOUTH COAST,
Description of the South, Coast of Australia, and Islands
contiguous ; with Sailing Directions.
Cape Leeuwin CAPE LiEEUWW (Lioness), the S. W. extremity of NEW HOL-
and dangers LAND, is in lat. 34 21' S., Ion. 1156'E., according to Capt.
near it.
Flinders ; the general accuracy of whose Charts has been prin-
cipally relied on for the following description of the South
Coast. The Cape is formed of tolerably elevated land, of
smooth but sterile aspect, and is visible 10 leagues in fine wea-
ther ; it is defended between S. W. and S. E. by rocky islets, or
detached breakers, to the extent of five or six miles ; the Cape
itself appearing like an island lying close to the main, with lower
land on its North side, and a very remarkable large bare patch
of sand on the Coast, five or six miles in the same direction.
The Westernmost of the dangers known to exist in the vicinity
of the Cape, is a rock just even with the water's edge, on which
the French corvette Ge*ographe was nearly lost in 1803 ; it bears
N. 88 W. dist. 10 miles from the Cape ; and S. 73| W. from the
Cape's South- Western extreme, distant 4 miles. Three or four
miles to the S. Eastward of the Cape lie the Islets ST. ALOUARN,
two in number, rocky, barren, and surrounded with high and
extensive breakers, whose limits have not been precisely ascer-
tained: the S. W. islet is the largest and most elevated.
The approach to this prominent feature on the AUSTRALIAN
Continent does not seem to be marked by the usual indications
of the proximity of land ; the water retaining its usual colour,
without any sea-weed at its surface, or a greater number of
oceanic birds than are usually met with in the run from ST. PAUL.
The Soundings are not regular, and do not extend far offshore,
being 85 fathoms at 9 or 10 leagues to the S. by W., and 40
to 60 fathoms at 6 leagues to the Southward of the Cape. The
Variation here is 8 West.
Rivr iii-nr There is said to be an inlet or river round the N. W. side of
* this Promontory, with an Island at its entrance, which obscures it
from the view of a ship while passing.
AUSTRALIA, SOUTH COAST. 7
To the Eastward of the Cape, the Coast trends round N.
Easterly into an open Bay, about 3 leagues in depth, and nearly
7 leagues across, to a Low Black Point that forms it, and which Low Black
bears from CAPE LEEUWIN nearly E. by S., having a reef of
rocks extending off it nearly a mile. The Shores of this Bay
have never been explored; but, being exposed to the Southward
and S. W., from which the strongest gales are found to blow, it is
dangerous to approach, and could only be used by a ship in the Dangerous
greatest emergency, embayed between CAPE LEEUWIN and
POINT D'ENTRECASTEAUX, in the hope of finding shelter under
the Isles ST. ALOUARN ; but under no other circumstances ought it
to be attempted, the progress of the gales hereabouts being
usually from S. W. to the Southward. There are Soundings in
15 fathoms, on a coral and sandy bottom, about three miles from
the above-mentioned low black Point, whence the Coast curves
round S. 43 E. 37 miles to
POINT D'ENTRECASTEAUX, a steep rocky Cape, in lat. 34 52' S., Point D'En-
lon. 116 1' E., and one of the most remarkable projections on
this coast: it is visible 10 leagues from a ship's deck. A low
rock lies two or three miles to the E. S. E. from the Point,
and a patch of breakers nearly the same distance to the South,
having 30 fathoms water abreast of them, at two miles distance.
The Coast between CAPE LEEUWIN and POINT D'ENTRECAS-
TEAUX is low, sandy, and uninviting, having two small Bays
open to the Westward, at two and six leagues on its N. W.
side. At 11 or 12 leagues to the S. S. W. of this projection,
Captain Vancouver could not find bottom at 220 fathoms. To
the Eastward of it, the Coast improves a little in appearance,
being more elevated, better clothed with vegetation, and pro-
jecting in cliffy points, with sandy Bays between them, which, at
a distance, give it the appearance of several islands.
CAPE CHATHAM is a smooth, steep, rocky Island, of con- Cupe Chat-
siderable elevation, in lat. 35 2j' S., Ion. HS^E., and lies ham>
about a mile from a cliffy projection on the main land, that forms
a bight to the Eastward, in which is a reef of rocks. The
Soundings at six or seven leagues to the Southward of this Cape
are 60 to 65 fathoms, and 40 fathoms at three leagues ; within
which distance they are irregular, with deep water close to the
AUSTRALIA, SOUTH COAST.
Two white
rocks.
Point Nuyts.
shore. This headland may bo seen at the distance of 10 leagues
from a ship's deck.
Thirteen miles due West from CAPE CHATHAM are two small
but rather high, white, flat-topped Rocks, lying about 10 miles
from the nearest land, and five leagues S. 43 E. from POINT
D'ENTRECASTEAUX. There are 65 fathoms on a bottom of white
sand, at six leagues to the S. by W. of them, and appa-
rently a clear channel to the Northward ; but with a leading
Wind it is prudent to pass outside. This depth is three or four
leagues from the edge of Soundings, which do not appear
to extend farther off this part of the Coast than nine or ten
leagues.
POINT NUYTS is a cliffy Head projecting three miles beyond
the line of Coast, and is situated seven miles E. by S. from
CAPE CHATHAM : it is visible eight or nine leagues from a
ship's deck, and has a sandy Bay three or four miles wide on
its East side, formed by another projection which is low,
with some black Rocks lying off it. This is one of three or
four small sandy Bays to the Eastward of CAPE CHATHAM,
formed by alternate cliffy and low points, and in which a ship
should look for shelter only from Northerly Winds ; weighing
immediately the Wind shifts to the Southward of East or West,
or threatens in the N. W.
Ten miles to the N. E. by N. of POINT NUYTS is a peaked
Hill of considerable elevation, visible before the lower land of
the Coast, when the weather is very clear.
Point Hiiiier. POINT HiLLiER bears due East from POINT NUYTS, distance
twenty-six miles ; it is cliffy, and higher than the adjoining
Coast Land, and has a broad Rock lying off it to the S. E.* At
three to six miles off this part of the Coast, which is apparently
clear of dangers beyond H miles, are 30 to 40 fathoms water.
From POINT HILLIER the Coast extends nearly E. by S. for
25 miles, without any considerable projection of its steep rocky
shore, to
WEST CAPE HOWE, a sharp cliffy Cape, in lat. 35 8|' S.,
West Cape
Howe.
* In the French Chart by M. Freycinet, two other rocky islets are laid down
at four miles to the Eastward of this, with several small rocks scattered about them
and'near the shore ; the whole being distinguished by the mime of the Casnarina hies.
AUSTRALIA, SOUTH COAST.
ton. 1 17" 40' E., which terminates to the Southward and S. W. u " (1 >t '
in perpendicular rocky bluffs of moderate height and even
aspect, rising gradually towards the interior: beyond it the
land trends N. by E. four miles into a sandy bight, in which
there are two small islets and a reef; and further along the ami islet, to
shore, which then stretches Eastward and again becomes cliffy,
there are two other islets lying close together, with a small rock
off their West side.
BALD HEAD, in lat. 35 6' 15" S., Ion. 118 & 45" E., according Bnid
to Captain Flinders, is the East extremity of a peninsula about
ten miles in length, which forms KING GEORGE'S SOUND, and is
visible 12 leagues from a ship's deck in clear weather. It is
of considerable elevation and even appearance, and rounds off
at the extremity with a smooth surface of rock almost entirely
destitute of vegetation, which gives it the appearance of being
an elevated island of sterile white aspect, when approached from
the Eastward. At the foot of its extremity, on the South side,
is a rock even with the water's surface ; but it is otherwise
quite safe to approach, having 10 and 12 fathoms close to the
shore, which is very steep. To the W. S. W. from BALD
HEAD, distant 4 miles, is a bold rocky projection called PEAK Penk
HEAD, presenting to the Southward a rugged sloping bluff,
exactly resembling a human face in profile: the crown of the
head is the highest peak of this projection, from which it has a
broken rocky descent towards the promontory of BALD HEAD,
and forms a bight on each side ; that to the Westward being
deeper than the other, with a reef extending a short distance off
its Western extremity.
Nearly three miles to the S. W. by S. from BALD HEAD, Vancouver's
are VANCOUVER'S BREAKERS, small in extent, with a flat rock
in the centre, just even with the water's edge. This danger
appears to be steep on every side, as the swell which generally
rolls in from the Southward and Westward upon this part of
the Coast breaks violently and with great abruptness over them.
The nearest land in their neighbourhood is PEAK HEAD, the sum-
mit of which bears N. 60 W. in a line with the centre rock, from
which it is distant nearly 2| miles; but they should be avoided
in the night, as the Soundings give no warning of their vicinity.
C
10 AUSTRALIA, SOUTH COAST.
Eclipse ECLIPSE ISLANDS of Captain Vancouver, are a small cluster
of rocky islands lying 3 to 5 miles off the land to the Westward
of PEAK HEAD ; and with the exception of the largest, which is
about a mile and a half in length, E. N. E. and W. S. W. and half a
mile wide, they are destitute of vegetation. The principal island
rises in several green hummocks towards the summit, which is of
a round form, and visible 8 leagues from a ship's deck in clear
weather ; it bears from the extremity of BALD HEAD S. 53 W.
distant 8| miles, and from WEST CAPE HOWE S. 75 E. The
remainder of this cluster are 3 rocky barren islets lying nearly
a mile off its S. W. end, and surrounded with breakers. There
is a clear channel inshore of the whole, by borrowing towards
PEAK HEAD, in order to avoid a patch of breakers situated about
a mile to the N. W. of the principal island, which is the only
danger known to exist in their vicinity ; and a mile off from the
opposite side there is no bottom with 30 fathoms.
The ECLIPSE ISLANDS are the Southernmost land on this
Coast, and should be avoided in beating to the Westward, on
account of the Current, which here inns strong in the opposite
direction, during the prevalence of Westerly Winds.
George's KING GEORGE'S SOUND, formed on the South side by BALD HEAD,
is the most convenient anchorage with which we are acquainted on
this part of the Coast, for refitting, wooding, and watering ;
being defended at its entrance by BREAKSEA and MICHAELMAS
ISLANDS, and containing two inner harbours. Captain P. P. King,
who visited this place several times, observes, " There are many
convenient anchorages in this Sound ; the best place for a large
ship, when it is necessary to refit the rigging at the same time
that she is completing her wood and water, is PRINCESS- ROYAL
HARBO u R ; but for a small vessel, not drawing more than 1 1 feet,
OYSTER HARBOUR is preferable, because she is secured to within
100 yards of the shore, and therefore better situated for the
protection of her people at their occupations from the natives,
who are numerous, and will daily visit them. But, for a ship
only wanting fuel and water, there is a sandy bay in the S. W.
corner of the Sound, in which 2 or 3 streams of excellent water
run into the sea over the sand, from which a ship might complete
her hold in a day or two, by digging a well to collect it. Wood
AUSTRALIA, SOUTH COAST. 11
may also be procured at this place, but not of so large a size,
nor perhaps of so good a quality, as at other parts. This bay
is readily found, by its being the first to the Westward of a
rocky point, that projects from some remarkable bare sand
hillocks ; as also from its being the second sandy beach to the
Westward of the low, flat, rocky islet at the back of SEAL
ISLAND. The anchorage is good, being a bottom of sand and
weeds, and is sufficiently protected from Easterly Winds by
BREAKSEA and MICHAELMAS ISLANDS. The anchorage
between SEAL ISLAND and the first sandy beach to the Westward
of BALD HEAD, with the low, flat, rocky islet bearing West, in
6 or 7 fathoms sand and weeds, should be preferred during the
summer months ; for the Easterly Winds then prevail, and
sometimes blow strong, even as late as March : the anchorage
is land-locked, excepting in the direction of E. by N. where
the sea hprizon is visible to the extent of only 10. There is
no water nearer to this anchorage than in the sandy bay above-
mentioned ; but the distance is trifling for a ship that can send
boats with men enough to protect themselves while employed
in filling the casks, for, notwithstanding the friendly communica-
tion we have had with the inhabitants of this Sound, they are
not to be trusted, unless their character is different from the
generality of their countrymen.
" Water is procured at PRINCESS- ROY AL and OYSTER HAR-
BOURS, by digging holes at the edge of the sand under the hills."
At the latter place, however, there is a small stream running over
the beach into the sea, in the first sandy bay to the Eastward of
the Harbour's entrance. The banks that occupy a considerable
portion of both harbours, afford abundance of oysters and other
shell-fish, and fish are to be procured in plenty with hook and
line: seals are also to be had at SEAL ISLAND, which is a mass
of granite accessible only at its Western end, and is in lat.
35 4' 55" S., Ion. 11 7 58' 7" E., according to the observations
of Captain Flinders, by whose chart* a ship may with safety
proceed into the Sound and its Harbours.
" Over the bar of OYSTER HARBOUR there is not more than O)sfer
Harbour.
* Aust. Atlus, PI. II.
12 AUSTRALIA, SOUTH COAST.
10 feet at low water, and in the neaps 12 feet at high water;
but it is likely that, at Spring Tides, there may be 14 feet, or
perhaps more if the Wind is blowing into the Harbour ; but during
the Springs, high water always takes place at night, and it would
not, therefore, be prudent to attempt to pass the bar at that time.
" A vessel intending to go into OYS TER HARB OUR, should anchor
off the sandy beach immediately to the Eastward of the entrance
that is, between the breakers off the Point and the Bar, in 3
fathoms, sand ; bringing the summit of GREEN ISLAND, in the Har-
bour, on with the extremity of the bushes of the West point of
entrance, and the highest part of BREAKSEA ISLAND in a line with
the outer point of the Bay : a boat should then be sent to sound
the Bar. The mark for the deepest part is when the Western
summit of some flat-topped land at the back of OYSTER HAR-
BOUR, is a little open of the rocks off the East side of the entrance.
After the Bar is passed, the Channel is deepest when the centre
of the flat land is kept midway between the points of entrance,
avoiding a spit of rocks that projects from the rocky point at
the West end of the watering beach. The strongest Winds are
from the Westward, and therefore bower anchors should be
placed to the S. W. and N. W. ; warps, and the stream cable,
will be sufficient to secure her from Easterly Winds, as the hills
rise immediately over the vessel on that shore. If the run of
water outside the bar should fail, holes may be dug at the edge
of the grass, about 3 feet deep, which will yield a sufficient
quantity, in two or three days, for any vessel that can pass over
Tides. it. The Flood Tide in the entrance generally runs 16 hours, and
ebbs 8 hours. High water at Full and Change, takes place
at 10 h 10 m at night; but on the Bar the rise and fall is very
irregular, and a vessel going in should pay great attention to
the depth, if her draught is more than 10 feet, for it sometimes
rises suddenly 2 feet. The Spring Tides take place about the
3d or 4th day after a new or full moon."*
There is no set of tide in the Sound ; nevertheless it is found
to run with considerable strength in the narrow entrances of both
Harbours, making high water once in 24 hours, which appears
* "Narrative of a Surrey of the Coasts- oi Australia," by Captain P. P.King,
K. N. vol.ii. i'. 379, tfcc.
AUSTRALIA, SOUTH COAST. 13
always to take place between 6 and 12 at night; for after, by
gradually becoming later, it has been high water at 12, the next
night it takes place soon after 6, and then happens later by
of an hour each night as before. The greatest rise that was
observed in PRINCESS-ROYAL HARBOUR, by Captain Flinders,
was 3 feet 2 inches, and the least 2 feet 8 inches.* The Mag
netic Variation here is about 7 West.
PRINCESS-ROYAL HARBOUR, on the West side of the Sound, PrincessRoyai
is more convenient for large vessels than OYSTER HARBOUR, on
account of the greater depth of water, which is not less than 4
fathoms in the entrance by borrowing towards the North shore ;
this depth then increases to 6 and 8 fathoms ; but the greater
part of the harbour being occupied by shoals, extending from
its shores, the plan in plate II. of the Australian Atlas, and a
good look out from the mast head, will be of more service than
any written directions. The Investigator anchored in 17 feet
muddy bottom, at of a mile from the shore under the highest
hill, which then bore N. E. by N. by compass, with MICHAEL-
MAS ISLAND on with the North point of the entrance, and
BREAKSEA ISLAND on with the South point. Here the ship
was refitted : good water, though a little discoloured, was found
by digging at the foot of the hill ; and firewood not being abundant
in the immediate vicinity of the anchorage, was obtained by
sending boats into a little bight round the North point of the
entrance, where it was found to split better than at some other
places that were examined. The Easternmost of 2 woody
points on the South side of the Harbour, afforded trees for sawing
into plank, but none appear to have been found that were fit
for masts or spars. The entrance to this Harbour being narrow,
and contracted to of a mile by a shoal extending round the
Xorth and West sides of POINT POSSESSION, a ship requiring
only wood and water should give the preference to the anchorage
Southward of SEAL ISLAND, where she would not be subject
to any detention from Easterly Winds that are fair for running
along the Coast to the Westward, but which would confine a ship
in PRINCESS-ROYAL HARBOUR.
BREAKSEA ISLAND, lying nearly 3 miles N. N. E. \ E. from BALD Breuksea
Idaad,
* See FJinder=, vol. i. p. 71.
14 AUSTRALIA, SOUTH COAST.
HEAD, is an elevated rocky mass, about 1 mile in length East
and West, with a small, but high, round islet close to its East
end. A passage more than \ a mile wide, on its North side,
separates it from MICHAELMAS ISLAND, which is of the same
description, but somewhat smaller and more elevated ; neither
of them having more than a few tufts of vegetation near their
summits. There are 30 fathoms water at little more than
\ a mile to the Southward of BREAKSEA ISLAND, with a clear
working channel of 2 miles between it and BALD HEAD. A
channel also exists between MICHAELMAS ISLAND and the main ;
but to the extent of \ a mile North from the West end of the
nn<J shoal. Island, there is a shoal with 5 fathoms close to its extremity,
which is nearly in mid-channel. To keep clear of this, a ship
running into the Sound by the Northern channel, on hearing
MICHAELMAS ISLAND, should borrow towards the main, or bring
a flat rock in the North part of the Sound in a line with f
steep rocky projection beyond it towards OYSTER HARBO
keep those marks on, until the extremity of BALD HEAD opens
of the West end of MICHAELMAS ISLAND ; she will then be to
the N. W. of the shoal, and may steer at pleasure according to
Atlas, PI. ii.) the plan in Plate II. of the Atlas.
Mount MOUNT GARDNER is a hi eh and rather peaked mass of granite,
Gardner,
partially covered with a very thin coat of vegetation, and bears
N. 51 E. in a line with BALD HEAD and the ECLIPSE ISLANDS,
at 9^ miles from the former: it is visible 16 or V] leagues in
clear weather, and descends to a steep rocky shore on three
sides, the most prominent part of which is in a S. E. by S.
direction, nearly 1 \ mile from the summit. A rocky islet lies
and islets near d()ge to ^ g> w part of ^ p ro j ect j on? which then trends
N. W. and Westward, in a long bay with a rocky and sandy shore,
near which are 2 more islets similar to the former, the Western-
most being the largest. An elevated rocky island, about \ a
mile in length, lies about 2 miles S. 40 W. from the Mount, and
has reefs extending a little way off its East and West ends. An-
other island is laid down in the French charts, near the shore on
the East side of the Mount, with a reef extending nearly \ a mile
from it in an Easterly direction ; close to the extremity of which
are 13 fathoms.
AUSTRALIA, SOUTH COAST. 15
PORT OF Two PEOPLE, in the French chart of M. Freyclnet, Port of T\VO
is a small sandy bay round the North side of MOUNT GARDNER,
well sheltered from all Westerly Winds, but open to the
Eastward : it is about 2 miles in depth, with an entrance a mile
wide; on the South side of which, near the shore, is a small
rocky islet, and a covered rock ^ a mile to the Eastward of it.
In the South part of the Port there is a larger islet, apparently
connected with the shore by a reef, which also extends off its
East side, with 6 fathoms between the islet and South point of
entrance, from which it is distant a short | mile : in its vicinity
there are 5 fathoms at of a mile from the beach, which depth
increases to 10 and 13 fathoms near the Northern shore, which
appears very steep. The land that forms this Bay is much
occupied by extensive fresh water swamps at a small distance
behind the beach, the most accessible part of which for boats
is on the S. W. side of the rocky islet, where some protection
is afforded from the swell ; but the confined size of this Port
renders it inconvenient for any but small vessels.
To the Eastward of the North point of entrance there is a
small bay open to the S. E., in which the depths are too small
and irregular to constitute safe anchorage ; and 5 miles farther,
in an E. N T . E. direction, is the entrance of a small winding ami a small
creek, capable of affording shelter to boats ; having 6 fathoms
in its entrance of one-fifth of a mile wide, which gradually
decreases to its termination at less than a mile from the sea.
Hereabouts the land rises boldly to a considerable height, and
trends Eastward with a sandy shore at the foot of a mountainous
range, which, from the number of peaked rocky masses that
form its summit, is called MOUNT MANYPEAK : the highest and Mount Many-
most remarkable peaks being near the West end.
Due North from this Mount, at 9 or 10 leagues from the
Coast, are some high rugged mountains, visible 18 leagues in
clear weather ; with several other elevated ranges of similar
appearance detached to the N. Westward of it, and rising abruptly
from the moderately elevated land by which they are surrounded :
one of these resembles a dome surmounted by a pinnacle, and
is a remarkable object from the S. Eastward when the atmo-
sphere is clear.
16 . AUSTRALIA, SOUTH COAST.
R-titJ Humi, BALD ISLAND is a barren rock of moderate elevation, about
2 miles in length N. W. by W. and S. E. by E., with a
peaked summit, and is visible 8 or 9 leagues from a ship's deck
in clear weather ; it lies off a rocky point of land that falls down
from the East end of MOUNT MANYPEAK, and forms a channel
about a mile wide, through which Captain Flinders passed, and
had not less than 17 fathoms water. Its South end is in
lat. 34 55' S., Ion. 118 29' E.; and about a mile from it in a
and (landers g_ go w. direction, is a covered rock on which the sea breaks
it.
only at times. At 5 miles from, the South point of the island,
in a W. by S. direction, and at 2 miles from the main, lie 2
small rocky islets surrounded by a reef, the Southernmost being
the largest, and bearing from the other S. S. E. There is also
a small rock with breakers extending from it, lying near the
N. E. side of BALD ISLAND ; and the French chart of D'ENTRE-
CASTEADX places a covered rock on the parallel of the 2 rocky
islets, and bearing S. ^ W. from the point inside the Island ;
but Captain Flinders passed very close to this situation of the
supposed danger without seeing it, nor were any breakers
perceived in that direction, while passing at a greater distance,
in the Mermaid. To the Eastward of MOUNT MANYPEAK the
land trends in a bight to the North and N. Eastward, low and
sandy for 7 leagues, to
Cape Riche. CAPE RiCHE, a cliffy projection, of level appearance and
moderate elevation, in lat. 34 39' S., Ion. 11844'E. with 2
small rocks lying near the shore at 3 or 4 miles to the S. West-
. ward of it. HAUL-OFF ROCK lies 5 or 6 miles to the S. W. of
this Cape, at the distance of a mile from the main, and is a
conspicuous lump of granite, with a smaller rock close to its
S. W. end, and 20 fathoms water at a mile from it to the South-
ward ; whence the Soundings gradually increase to 45 fathoms
at 7 leagues to the S. Eastward. Abreast of this rock, the shore
begins to rise towards CAPE RICHE, round the North side of
which it forms a sandy bight, containing a small island ; and from
thence trends N. Eastward to the bottom of a deep bay round
some cliffy land that probably affords shelter from S. W. Winds ;
but this bight has not been perfectly examined, and may be known
by the land on its West side being cliffy, and that to the
AUSTRALIA, SOUTH COAST. 17
Eastward almost bare sand hills, extending in aS.E. byE.
direction towards CAPE KNOB.
CAPE KNOB is a rugged, stony projection, extending East and Cape Knob.
West about 3 miles, with a sandy bight on each side ; that to the
Eastward containing a small rocky islet; the 'middle stony lump
on the summit of this Cape, is in lat. 34 31 J' S., Ion. 11914^'E.;
and 3 miles to the Southward of it are soundings in 40 fathoms.
Two large smooth rocks lie close to each other near the shore,
4 miles Northwestward of the Cape, and are conspicuous objects
against the main land abreast of them, which is little else than
bare sand.
POINT HOOD projects, in an Easterly direction, about 6 miles Point Hood,
from the coast line, and makes like an island, being connected
with the main by low sandy land ; its cliffy extremity is in lat.
34 23' S., Ion. 119 33' E., between which arid CAPE KNOB are
2 deep sandy bights in the coast, with a moderately high projec-
tion between them, and an islet near the shore on its N. E.
side.
Off this point lie the DOUBTFUL ISLES, 4 in number, rocky and Doubtful Isles,
steep ; having a good channel nearly a mile wide between the
2 outermost, which lie 2 miles from the point, and another
situated closer to it. Captain Flinders passed through this channel
in the Investigator, carrying 20 to 24 fathoms water, which after-
wards shoaled to 15 and 12, as he hauled close round their North
side into DOUBTFUL-ISLAND BAY, and he had 1\ fathoms sandy
bottom, at a cable's length from the shore, 2 miles within the
Point ; but in the narrow channel between the inner Island and
Point, his boat found only 2 fathoms.* There is a clear passage,
nearly 2 miles wide, between the Point and the Northernmost
Island, which is composed of saed and rock, and is frequented by
seals : 2 miles to the Eastward of these islands are 35 and 38
fathoms, and 6 miles N. Eastward of them 33 fathoms ; the
Soundings being irregular, and apparently deep close to the shore.
The Magnetic Variation here, in 1802, was 9 W., with the ship's
head E. N. E.
On the North side of POINT HOOD the land trends 5 or 6 miles
* Flindors' Terr. Aust. vol. i. pp. T5, 76.
D
18 AUSTRALIA, SOUTH COAST.
W. S. W., and then turns to the Northward, forming an exten-
sive bay.
Doubtful DOUBTFUL-ISLAND BAY, formed on the South side by POINT
Island Bay.
HOOD and the DOUBTFUL ISLES, is about 6 leagues across to the
Northern shore, and 9 or 10 miles deep, affording shelter in its S.
Western part from all winds that do not blow hard between
N. N. E. and East ; its North and Western shores have not been
closely examined, but are composed of sandy and rocky land,
with some barren peaked hills rising to a considerable elevation,
at a small distance from the sea. The Southernmost of these,
MountsBarren, situated abreast the middle of the Bay, and called WEST MOUNT
BARREN, is visible 10 leagues off, and bears nearly N. W. J N.
from the largest DOUBTFUL ISLAND. Another, called MIDDLE
MOUNT BARREN, forming the summit of some steep rocky land
on the North side of the Bay, is visible 12 leagues off; and 6
leagues farther, in an E. N. E. direction, is a third rocky hill of
similar character, but more elevated, with high land stretching to
the N. Westward ; it is visible 14 leagues from a ship's deck, and
named EAST MOUNT BARREN, its situation being in lat. 33 56 J'
S., Ion. 11959'E. The shore between the 2 latter is high and
rocky, with 31 to 34 fathoms at 4 or 5 miles from it : a small
red islet lies close to a projection 5 miles Eastward of the MIDDLE
MOUNT; between which and EAST MOUNT BARREN are two
inconsiderable bights open to the S. Eastward, and another bight
open to the Southward, immediately under the Mount.
From hence the coast becomes low and sandy for 6 or 7 leagues
in an Easterly direction, and then trends E. N. E. 8 leagues,
preserving the same character, with sand-hills here and there
and dangers to at the back ; and is fronted by covered and dry rocks, that lie
of them. from 5 miles to nearly 5 leagues off the land, with passages
among them. The Westernmost of the dangers known to exist
in this part, is a small covered rock, 7 or 8 miles offshore,
bearing from EAST MOUNT BARREN S. 38 E., distant 12 miles,
with 25 fathoms inshore of it, but no bottom with 44 fathoms
at 2 miles to the Southward : the sea breaks on this danger
only at times ; but there is another of greater extent about 5
miles N. 63 E. from it, on which the sea breaks high ; caution,
and a good look out, are therefore requisite in navigating on
AUSTRALIA, SOUTH COAST. 19
this part of the Coast, as the Soundings give no intimation of
the vicinity of these dangers, many of which are several feet
below the surface of the sea, and are only occasionally to be
discerned in rough weather.
A small low rocky island of smooth and sterile aspect, and ^"hmd^
frequented by seals in 1802, lies 8| leagues E. S. E. from EAST
MOUNT BARREN, in lat. 34 6' S., Ion. 120 28' E. Breakers extend
in a North and X. X. E. direction from it, more than half way to
the main land, which is 8 or 9 miles distant, and appears to
be fronted by other breakers approaching so near the former, as
to render the existence of a safe channel between them very
doubtful ; it is otherwise very steep, with Soundings in 38 fathoms,
between the island and a small reef lying S. 72 W. 2 or 3 miles
from it, and 35 fathoms at 3 miles to the Eastward ; but there is
no bottom at that depth, 1 mile off its South side.
A cluster of four small rocku islets lies 7 leagues E. A X. Foiir sma "
rocky Islets.
from the last mentioned low rocky island, with 34 fathoms half
way towards the main, which is low and sandy, and distant 13 or
14 miles from them; the Xorthernmost islet is the largest, and
the whole are surrounded with breakers that appear to extend
farthest off their S. W. end ; a small detached breaker being
laid down in the Charts of Flinders and D'Entrecasteaux, between
2 and 3 miles N. E. by E. from the body of the group. The
Soundings decrease from 35 to 23 fathoms, at 5 miles Xorth of
this detached danger, which renders it probable there may be
other covered rocks in its vicinity ; and it may be necessary to
remark, that the total absence of information relative to the South
side of this cluster, renders great caution necessary in approaching
them in that direction.
SHOAL CAPE, in lat. 33 53' S., Ion. 121 1? E., is composed Shoal Cape,
of sand-hills, forming like white cliffs, and has an islet, surrounded
with much broken water, close to its S. E. side. The appearance
of an opening in the land, on each side of this Cape, was
observed by Captain Flinders, while passing in 33 fathoms,
at 5 or 6 miles off; but was thought to be a low connexion
between the sand-hills, with probably lagoons behind them,
which occasionally force a passage. To the Westward of the
CAPE, the land extends W. | X. about 6 leagues, to the
20 AUSTRALIA, SOUTH COAST.
bottom of a sandy bight; and, on the opposite side, trends
to the Eastward, forming 2 or 3 open sandy bays destitute
of shelter ; off the first of these is a red islet, 7 miles due
East from SHOAL CAPE, and nearly 2 miles from the main;
and in the same direction, at 20 miles from the Cape, is
another small piece of land, apparently not joined to the main,
but surrounded with breakers, and with a small dry rock on its
East side. At 6 or 7 miles Southward of the red islet, the
soundings are irregular, from 25 to 42 fathoms, and become
deeper as the Islands to the Eastward are approached.
The Magnetic Variation off SHOAL CAPE, with the ship's head
E.S.E., was 9 21' W. in 1802.
Recherche The ARCHIPELAGO of the RECHERCHE commences abreast this
part of the coast, and extends about 45 leagues from the Western
island of the WEST GROUP, in lat. 34 2' S., Ion. 121 35' E., to
the Northern rock of the EAST GROUP, in lat. 33 43' S., Ion.
124 4' East ; but to give a minute description of every island
and reef in this dangerous labyrinth, would be both impracticable
and useless ; a notice of its most remarkable and detached objects
must therefore suffice, with a description of the Coast, and Captain
(Australian Flinders' Chart, to conduct any navigator who, from choice or
necessity, may happen to encounter them. They should be
avoided by a ship beating to the Westward, on account of the
haze that is frequently found to prevail among them, and in the
neighbourhood of the small detached reefs in the S. W. part, which
lie 5 or 6 leagues from any neighbouring islands.
Termination TERMINATION ISLAND, in lat. 34 30' S., Ion. 121 58' E., is the
iland ' Southernmost island of the RECHERCHE ARCHIPELAGO, and little
else but a smooth mass of rock, rising gradually to rather a
peaked summit, visible 9 or 10 leagues from a ship's deck
in clear weather ; a small rock, surrounded with breakers, lies
\ a mile off its North end. Soundings in 62 fathoms, white
sand, are obtained 6 or 7 miles to the S. W. ; and in 72 fathoms
coral, about 17 leagues W. by S. \ S. from this island ; but
further South they are quickly lost. The Magnetic Variation, at
4 or 5 leagues to the Eastward, was 3 50' W. in 1803, with the
ship's head E.N. E. or 57 W. with her head on the meridian.
and Reefs near There is a small reef, with 2 rocks above water, laid down in
AUSTRALIA, SOUTH COAST. 21
the French Charts, bearing N. 61 W. from TERMINATION
ISLAND, distant 16| miles ; and a dry rock, surrounded with
breakers, 4 leagues N. W. by N. from the island. Half-way
between the former and the Western island of WEST GROUP, there
is another reef, with 2 dry rocks on it, seen both by Captain
Flinders and the French ; 4 or 5 miles North-Eastward of which
is the commencement of a chain of reefs called the CAUSEWAY,
that project from a great number of islands in the vicinity of
CAPE LE GRAND. These are the S. Westernmost dangers of
the ARCHIPELAGO that are known to exist ; and within their limits,
the Chart of Captain Flinders must be consulted for many dry
and covered reefs, with which the sea is studded towards the
main.
The TWIN ROCKS, 2 small lumps of reddish appearance, bearing Twin Rock*,
N. E. by E. E. nearly 6 leagues from TERMINATION ISLAND,
are conspicuous objects on a reef that extends about a mile all
round them, with deep water close to its verge.
The sea is apparently clear to the Southward of DRAPER'S
ISLAND, between the TWIN ROCKS and a small patch, N. 81 and other
E. 34 miles from them, and nearly 10 leagues due West from d " n g er s-
the North end of the S. E. ISLES. This patch is the more dan-
gerous, from the sea breaking on it only at times ; and when the
water is smooth, perhaps not at all. Another patch of a similar
kind, but smaller, was seen by Captain Flinders, 6 or 7 miles to
the N. 31 E. of the former, and must have been passed very
close by Admiral D'Entrecasteaux, in 1792, without being seen.
The existence of these insidious dangers, and probably of more
in their vicinity, renders it advisable for a ship making a passage,
not to go Northward of a line between the S. E. ISLES and TER-
MINATION ISLAND.
WEST GROUP consists of 3 principal islands, lying from 7 to West Group,
10 miles from the main, and occupying a space of 5 or 6 miles
in an E. N. E. and W. S. W. direction, with several small islets
and breakers scattered among them ; the S. Westernmost is the
largest of the cluster, with a small hill on its North and South
ends ; the whole being rocky, and moderately elevated, with 46
to 48 fathoms at less than 2 miles from their South side, and a
safe passage to the Northward.
22
AUSTRALIA, SOUTH COAST.
Momlrain
Island,
and dangers
near it.
and a sunken A small sunken rock lies 4 miles East from the middle island
E u c s k t W ardof it. of WEST GROUP > wi t h Soundings in 40 to 30 fathoms between it
and the chain of high rocky islands that extend Southward from
ESPERANCE BAY, among which there are many narrow channels
with deep water. One small island, near the middle of this
cluster, is rendered more remarkable than the others, by a high
Remark- island, and round summit, which has gained for it the name of REMARK
ISLAND.
The islands to the Southward and S. E. of it, have many reefs
interspersed among them on the parallel of MONDRAIN ISLAND,
which is one of the largest in the Archipelago, and is visible 10
leagues : it is upwards of 3 miles in length, North and South,
and 1| mile wide ; with breakers surrounding 2 rocky islets near
its West side, and other breakers extending about a mile, perhaps
farther, off its South point. There is, also, a detached reef, nearly
2 miles N. E. by E. \ E. from the North point of the island, with 25
to 30 fathoms on 3 sides of it ; and 19 fathoms between it and the
point. This island was considered by Captain Flinders not to afford
secure anchorage ; and a ship seeking it there, should look out for
a reef running a little way from a small islet off the N. E. side.
At 3 and 4 miles off the East side of MONDRAIN ISLAND,
are 2 clusters of covered and dry rocks, with 25 and 26 fathoms
between them, by borrowing towards the Northernmost, in a
channel 1| mile wide: but other covered reefs exist to the S. E.
of this channel, towards DRAPER'S ISLAND, which is an elevated
mass of rock bearing S. 75 E. from the summit of MONDRAIN
ISLAND, distant 13 or 14 miles, with a dry rock and breakers
about a mile off its N. E. end. Three leagues N. 62 E. from
A sunken rock. DRAPER'S ISLAND, a small sunken rock is laid down in the
French Chart ; which position is nearly equidistant at 6 or 7 miles
from 3 islands to the W. N. W., N.E.byN., and E. N. E.,
having apparently clear channels and deep water among them.
This danger not having been seen by Captain Flinders, who
passed in the Investigator, at 6 or 7 miles to the Northward, it
is probable the sea does not at all times break over it.
OBSERVATORY ISLAND, situated 6 or 7 miles to the N. Eastward
of WEST GROUP, is about 1 \ mile in length, N. W. and S. E.,
and lies close to the Southward of a point on the main, that forma
Draper's
Island.
Observatory
Island.
AUSTRALIA, SOUTH COAST. 23
the West side of ESPE RANGE BAY. There is a passage all
round the island ; and between its N. E. side and some covered
and dry rocks a mile to the Eastward, the French ships, under
Admiral D'Entrecasteaux, anchored in 23 fathoms fine sand, at
J a mile from the shore, having the main land to the North, and
many islands in the offing, to the S. E., at 3 leagues distance ;
hut this confined anchorage can by no means be recommended,
even for a night, unless in very fine weather, on account of the
strong winds that frequently blow in the neighbourhood, and
which obliged the French ships to ride with three anchors ahead,
in order to prevent being driven on shore.* Fresh water could
not be procured in the neighbourhood of this anchorage, in the
month of December, but extensive salt lagoons were found to
occupy that part of the main immediately behind it ; and the whole
country, as well as the islands, proved rocky and sterile.
ESPERANCE BAY, formed on the West by the point of land Esperance
contiguous to OBSERVATORY ISLAND, and on the East by CAPE ay>
LE GRAND, is upwards of 5 leagues across, and nearly 4 deep ;
but is filled with so many rocky islands, and reefs both above
and below the water's surface, that its utility as a place of
anchorage is very doubtful. In its North and S. Eastern parts,
good shelter from S. W. and Southerly winds may probably be
afforded by the numerous islands and reefs in those directions ;
but the shores of the bay have not been minutely explored, and
should be approached with caution.
CAPE LE GRAND forms the S. Eastern part of ESPERANCE Cape i Grand.
BAY, and is in lat. 34 1' S., Ion. 122 4' E. ; it projects 4 or 5
miles into the sea, in a W. S. W. direction, towards a chain of
high rocky islands, that extend Southerly from the Bay, rjid form
part of the RECHERCHE ARCHIPELAGO. Near the shore, in
the S. E. corner of the Bay, and 5 miles N. 55 E. from the
extremity of the Cape, with a smaller hill between them, is a
high peak, visible 1 3 leagues ; and inland from this, the country
is represented to be sandy and barren. No dangers are known
to exist immediately off this Cape, except a small rocky islet,
about a mile to the S. S. E., and a smaller islet a mile East of
the former.
Voyage tie D'Entrecasteaux, vol i. p. HI.
24 AUSTRALIA, SOUTH COAST.
Thistle's Cove. THISTLE'S COVE, 6 miles to the Eastward of CAPE LE GRAND,
is little more than a mile in extent either way, but affords
complete shelter in its Western corner, where a single vessel
may be placed in perfect security, with anchors out on the off
bow and quarter, and hawsers on the other side fast to the
shore. She would thus lie in from 3 to 5 fathoms water, almost
near enough to lay a stage to the beach. There is wood for fuel,
though in no great abundance ; and, at less than 100 yards from
the shore, a lake of fresh water one mile in circumference, from
which a small stream runs into the cove ; but another stream
descending from the hills nearer into the Western corner, would
better suit the purposes of a ship. It is much superior to
LUCKY BAY, where neither wood nor water can be procured
without much time and trouble, nor is the shelter so "complete;
but THISTLE'S COVE is too small to be entered in a gale of
Wind. It may be known by its situation 3 miles S. E. of the
high peak over CAPE LE GRAND ; and in approaching it, a ship
must look out for a small sunken rock, on which the sea breaks
only at times, bearing nearly S. \ E. 1 mile distant from the
Cove's West point of entrance ; to the Westward of which is
another small bay fronted by 4 dry rocks. In the entrance to
THISTLE'S COVE are 10 fathoms water, and in the N. E. part
7 ; midway between it and CAPE LE GRAND, at 1 mile from
the main, is a rocky island, having a dry rock and some breakers
situated a mile from it to the E. S. E.
Lucky Bay. LUCKY BAY, to the Eastward of THISTLE'S COVE, and
separated from it by a small projection nearly a mile across, is
about one mile in extent, and afforded anchorage to the Investi-
gator in its N. E. part, in January, 1802 ; but it is open to the
S. W., in which direction the numerous islands and reefs in
the offing are 8 miles distant and upwards. The N. W. part of
the Bay is shoal; but in the entrance are 17 fathoms, which
decrease gradually towards the sandy beach at its head, where
wood and water are procurable, though not with so great
facility as in THISTLE'S COVE. LUCKY BAY may be known
by its situation 6 or 7 miles North from the high ISLAND MON-
DRAIN, and 2 miles within the East extremity of the land that
form CAPE LE GRAND : it has two small islands lying a long
AUSTRALIA, SOUTH COAST. -5
^9Sf
mile South from its East point, between which is a clear channel
of a mile, with 20 fathoms water; this increases to 35 fathoms
between the Islands and the Point, to the Eastward of which
are numerous islands and rocks that extend N. Eastward
along the shore into a sandy bight. In the Western part of
this bight, between 2 clusters of small islands and rocks, there
are Soundings in 10 fathoms, at 2 miles from the main, towards
which the depth gradually decreases to 4 fathoms at | a mile
from the beach. By the chart of Capt. Flinders, this bight (AustraHmi
appears calculated to give complete shelter from all Westerly
and Northerly Winds, and is defended to the Eastward and
Southward by small islands and reefs, both contiguous and in
the offing ; but the passage to this anchorage lies among
numerous dry and covered rocks, with which we are very little
acquainted.
The Magnetic Valuation here in 1802, was 3 6' W. on shore ;
4 26' W. on board the Investigator, with her head on the meridian,
and 7 25' W. with her head E. S. E. The Tides were too trifling
to attract notice.
CAPE ARID, in lat. 34 S., Ion. 123 7' to 123 13' E., is a piece cape Arid,
of high sterile land that rises to rather a peaked summit, and
projects 6 or 7 miles from the main, to -which it is joined by a
very low sandy peninsula, forming a 'large sandy bight on each
side : that to the Westward has not been distinctly traced, but
contains 2 small islands near its shore. The Cape is defended
by many small rocks and breakers that surround it for nearly and reefs near
a mile, and off its West extremity is a detached reef bearing '
from it S. W. by S. distant ! miles.
Between CAPES LE GRAND and ARID, the Coast is sandy and
generally low, with higher land on its projecting parts ; the
intermediate space of 13 or 14 leagues is chiefly occupied by a
chain of rocky islands, the most conspicuous of which are the
Ticin Peaks, situated about 5 leagues West from CAPE ARID : Twin Pent*,
they are 2 miles apart, bearing from each other nearly N. E. by N.
and S. W. by S., on separate islands, and are visible 9 leagues.
Oh steering to pass West and Northward of the TWIN PEAKS, and
the small islands immediately contiguous, the Investigator shoaled
the water from 30 to 10 fathoms ; and then suddenly to 3 fathoms,
E
2(5 Al STRALIA, SOl'Til >,\ST.
when the bottom was distinctly seen under the ship : at this time
she was nearly in a line between the TWIN PEAKS, at 2 miles
from the Northernmost, or nearest ; and immediately deepened
to 7 fathoms, steering towards the two Eastern islands of this
chain, between which were found 20 fathoms, in a channel about
| of a mile wide.
Middle L4,md. Due South from CAPE ARID lies MIDDLE ISLAND, the largest
of the RECHERCHE ARCHIPELAGO ; the round hill at its X*. W.
end, which is visible 7 or 8 leagues, being in lat. 34 5f ' S.,
Ion. 123 8^' E. and the intermediate space of 5 or 6 miles
strewed with small islands and reefs. Between these and the
X'. E. point of MIDDLE ISLAND, is a passage with 16 to 9 fathoms,
and from 14 to 20 fathoms are found within a mile of the island
on its East and South sides ; the Western part having no bottom
at 14 fathoms, a quarter of a mile from its steep rocky shore.
Goose island The X'oilh side forms GOOSE ISLAND BAY, which consists of three
sandy beaches that are separated from each other by rocky
points ; betw r een which and an island from \ to 1 mile distant,
anchorage may be found on a sandy bottom. Between GOOSE
ISLAND, which thus contracts the anchorage, and the middle sandy
beach, there is a bar with 3 fathoms on its deepest part ; to the
Westward of which the depth to anchor in is 7 fathoms, in
a line between the Western Sandy Beach, and West end of
GOOSE ISLAND, with the N. W. point of MIDDLE ISLAND
W. N. W. ; the bottom of sand and weeds will then be plainly
visible under the ship. On the East side of the bar, the anchorage
is in 11 and 12 fathoms between the X'orth points of the 2 islands,
at about f of a mile from each ; but the anchor does not hold so
well here as in the former situation, occasioned perhaps by the
increased depth of water : there is also a small rock above
water, lying ^ of a mile from the East side of GOOSE ISLAND,
having 7 fathoms close to it. This island is very rocky, but bold
to approach, having deep water close to its shore, except on the
S. E. side ; among the tufts of wiry grass on its summit, and on
most of the neighbouring islands, a large bird, called the barnacle
goose, is to be found during the summer months, and may be
easily taken.
The Tides are very weak and inconsiderable in this neighbour-
AUSTRALIA, SOUTH COAST. '2
hood, and are much influenced by the Wind. Magnetic Variation
here, in 1802, with the head East, was 6 10' W. ; with the head
W. S. W. 54' W. ; and with the head on the meridian,
3 25' W.
Firewood of a small size may be procured on MIDDLE ISLAND,
in sufficient quantity for the supply of 2 or 3 ships ; but no fresh
water is to be had, except perhaps during the winter, Captain
Flinders having found even the drainings from the hills too salt
to be drinkable in the month of January ; CAPE ARID appears
more likely to afford fresh water, which should be sought in the
bight on either side, at the foot of the high land that forms it.
During the summer, a great quantity of salt may be obtained from a
small lake behind the eastern sandy beach in GOOSE ISLAND BAY.
To the N. W. of MIDDLE ISLAND, are several small detached and dangers
reefs and sunken rocks, the nearest of which lies 1J mile
N. 42 W. from the round hill over its N. W. point, and does not
always show itself; there is a clear passage of a short mile
between this and a small dry rock W. J S. from it, which has
28 fathoms within half a mile of its North side. Near this rock,
and two covered patches to the Westward of it, are several low flat
isles, extending between 4 and 11 miles West from MIDDLE
ISLAND, and surrounded with breakers ; there is also a small
rocky island, 6 miles to the E. S. E. of MIDDLE ISLAND, with
breakers off its West side, and a reef detached a mile from its
N. E. end.
DOUGLAS'S ISLE lies nearly 3 miles S. W. by S. from the nearest Douglas's isle,
part of MIDDLE ISLAND, with a clear passage between them, and
no bottom with 35 fathoms at a mile from its North side, which
is low and rocky, and rises quickly to the summit of steep
rocky cliffs, that face to the Southward and Westward. A deep
notch in the middle, over which the sea must break in rough
weather, gives it the appearance of two isles near each other; the
Eastern half being very rocky and uneven, and entirely without
vegetation.
The SOUTH-EAST ISLES of the RECHERCHE ARCHIPELAGO lie South-East
6 or 7 leagues to the S. E. of MIDDLE ISLAND : the Southern- ]
most, or largest, at a distance, appears as two islands lying close
together, and is situated 8 leagues due South from the hill over
,
AUSTRALIA, SOUTH COAST.
CAPE PAS LEY: it is about 3 miles in extent X. E. ly X. and
-S. W. by S., and like DOUGLAS'S ISLE, is nearly divided in two \
by a narrow strip of low land ; breakers lie 1 J mile W. by N.
from its North point ; and nearly 6 miles N. by E. \ E. is a
smaller island that has not been approached very close, but was
ami reef. observed by Captain Flinders to have a reef lying 4 or 5 miles
from it in a N. E. by E. direction.
In consequence of D'Entrecasteaux's Chart, placing the South-
ernmost of these islands 6' more South, and 7' more East,
than the position assigned to it by Flinders, the latter considered
it probable a third island might exist hereabouts ; but the Mer-
maid, Lieut. P. P. King, made these islands from the S. by E. in
January, 1818, and saw only the two laid down in his Chart.
Round Island. ROUND ISLAND is a conspicuous small lump of rock, bearing
N. 65 E. 17 miles distant from the Northernmost of the S. E.
ISLES, and is 6 or 7 leagues from the main land that forms CAPE
9*ASLEY. Two small rocks lie upwards of half a mile off its
North and N. W. sides ; but they are very conspicuous, and the
only dangers known to exist in its neighbourhood.
Eastern Group. The EASTERN GROUP of the RECHERCHE ARCHIPELAGO CO11-
sists of eight low sterile rocks, lying from 3 to 5 or 6 leagues off
the low sandy shore of the main, to the Northward of Point
Malcolm, and scattered over an extent of 10 or 12 miles. The
Southernmost is the largest, and is 2 miles in length, with
some vegetation on its surface ; and it resembles the Southern
island of the WEST GROUP, in having a hill that is visible 8
leagues, on its North and South ends. A chain of sunken rocks
appears to connect this island with the greater part of the Group,
that extend North 3 leagues from it, and leave apparently clear
channels between them and the remaining two islands inshore ;
one of these is situated from POINT MALCOLM E. by S. 11 miles,
and the other N. 83 E. 13 or 14 miles, with soundings in 20 to
23 fathoms, between them and the main.
dine Pnsiey, CAPE PASLEY, in lat. 33 55 J' S., Ion. 123 28' E., bears
N. 75 E. distant 13 miles from CAPE ARID, and is formed by a
hill that is visible 9 or 10 leagues. A low islet lies 3 miles South
of the Cape, and has some rocks and breakers extending nearly
2 miles N. E. from it, between which and the main are Sound-
AUSTRALIA, SOUTH COAST.
ings in 28 to 34 fathoms, shoaling to the N. Eastward ; but in
approaching this Cape from MIDDLE ISLAND, a look-out must be
kept for a small dry rock surrounded with breakers, situated and a rock off it.
nearly 10 miles S. W. by S. from its summit, and about the
same distance from the summit of CAPE ARID; it is very steep,
having no bottom with 34 fathoms a mile on its North side.
Between these two considerable projections of the coast, is an
extensive sandy bight open to the S. Eastward, that has not been
explored, but appears capable of affording shelter from all
Westerly and Northerly winds.
POINT MALCOLM bears from CAPE PASLEY N. 51 E. distant PointMaicolm,
14 miles ; and is low and sandy, with a dry rock close to its
extremity, and a ledge of rocks extending from it upwards of 2
miles to the N. E. The depth diminishes from 20 to 10 fathoms"
while passing near a sunken rock 2| miles S. 25 E. from the
Point, and upon which the sea breaks only at times. The coast
forms a bight with CAPE PASLEY, in which are some small islands ; and land about
and on the North side it curves round into a large sandy bight, ll>
7 or 8 miles across, and 5 miles deep, with a low sandy shore,
and moderately elevated land of level appearance 4 or 5 miles
behind it. This level bank of land commences behind CAPE
ARID, where it bears the appearance of having once formed the
sea-shore : it continues from thence, with remarkable uniformity
in appearance, to the head of the GREAT AUSTRALIAN BIGHT,
preserving an elevation of 400 to 600 feet above the level of the
sea, and intercepting the mast-head view of the interior country,
with the exception of the first 20 leagues : in that space, some
craggy, barren-looking hills, 5 or 6 leagues in the interior, and
of considerable elevation, are visible over it ; the most remark-
able of them, called MOUNT RAGGED, bearing from POINT Mount
MALCOLM N. E. J N. distant 9 leagues.
There are two small rocky islands, with a reef more than a mile Islands near
off their East side, lying 7 miles N. 64 E. from the North low theCoast '
sandy point of the bight formed by POINT MALCOLM, and about
a league from the shore : Soundings in 18 fathoms are found
about a mile to the S. Eastward of the breakers ; but the water
quickly shoals to 6 fathoms at 3 miles to the N. E. of them, and
the depths are afterwards variable between 12 and 8 fathoms at
AUSTRALIA, SOUTH COAST.
4 or 5 miles from the shore to the Northward. Hereabouts, in
1802, the Magnetic Variation was, found to be 5 44' W. with
the ship's head N. N. E. From the bight Northward of POINT
MALCOLM, the coast extends about N. N. E, \ E., and is low
and sandy, without much sinuosity for 15 or 16 leagues, when it
curves round to the Eastward.
Point Culver, POINT CULVER, in lat. 32 5J' S., Ion. 124 39' E., is the bluff
East extremity of a range of cliffs of moderate elevation, that
commence about 5 miles to the Westward, where the bank of
level land behind Point Malcolm approaches very near to the
water-side. From thence they extend N. E. by E. % E. upwards
of 27 leagues, without any remarkable feature by which one part
can be distinguished from another, except on this bearing at 50
miles from POINT CULVER, where a gradual retiring of the coast
Point Dover, into a bight to the N. Eastward, forms POINT DOVER. These
cliffs are about 500 feet high ; the upper third part of them is
brown, and the lower portion almost white : " each small projec-
tion presents the appearance of a steep cape, as it opens out in
sailing along ; but before the ship arrives abreast of it, it is lost
in the general uniformity of the coast. These two points are
exceptions to this general uniformity : but it requires a ship to
be near the land before even these are distinguishable."* Sound-
end their Cliffs; ings in 28 to 21 fathoms are found at 4 or 5 miles from their
feet, and no dangers lie near them, except a small dry rock 6
leagues N. Eastward from POINT CULVER. There are 21 fathoms
within a mile of the shore to the N. Eastward of POINT DOVER ;
but the Soundings increase to 34 fathoms at 9 leagues S. E. of
that projection, on a bottom of brown sand mixed with coral
and shells.
The Magnetic Variation here, in 1802, was 4 26' W. with the
ship's head South ; 6 13' W., with the head N. E. ; and 7 15'
W. with the head E. by N.
From POINT DOVER the cliffs curve to the N. Eastward into a
bight, where they retire inland, and a low sandy point is formed
with the Coast in lat. 32 22' S., Ion. 126 29' E., being the projecting extremity
of some sand-hills, only sprinkled with vegetation. Here the
Flinders, vol. i. p. 93.
AUSTRALIA, SOUTH COAST.
Soundings are 7 fathoms at 2 and 3 miles off the shore, increas-
ing to 27 fathoms 4 leagues farther South. Magnetic Variation
4 18' W. with the ship's head S. by E.
Hence the sandy coast extends nearly E. by X. J X. for 31 to the East-
leagues, in almost a straight line, having a level summit on
which are some shrubs and trees. The Soundings are between
i^fci"
7 and 15 fathoms at 3 to 8 miles off it, and are pretty regular
as far as another low sandy point, in lat. 32 1' S., Ion. 128 15' E. ;
at 2 miles to the Southward of which are 5 fathoms, increasing to
25 at 9 leagues inthe same direction. The land then trends X. E.
and E. X. Eastward for 16 leagues, and is somewhat higher, but .jjj^
preserves the same sandy character; until cliffs similar to those
about POINT DOVER, and from 400 to 600 feet high, again emerge
from the sand-hills, in lat. 31 44' S., Ion. 129 T E., and
extend in very nearly a straight line X. 87 E. 27 leagues,
with Soundings in 24 and 27 fathoms, at 5 or 6 miles off:
here they curve round E. by X. | X., and 6 leagues further
terminate at a sandy beach that forms the head of the GREAT
AUSTRALIAN BIGHT, in lat. 31 29' S., Ion. 131 10' E. In cross- Great Austra-
ing this bight, at 7 or 8 miles from the land on each side, the la
Investigator had 27 fathoms, coarse sand and shells ; and pre-
served the same depth while tracing the coast, at 6 or 7 miles
distance, in its direction of S. E. by E. towards CAPE XUYTS, Nuyts' Reefs,
until approaching XUYTS' REEFS, the Westernmost of which is of
considerable size, and lies apparently detached at 5 or 6 miles
from the shore; this reef bears due West 10 or 11 miles from
two lumps of cliffy land like islands, that are the same distance
West from CAPE XUYTS, and are close to the main. The land
abreast of it is distinguished by two large and remarkable patches
of bare sand. Soundings in 27 fathoms are found 6 miles to the
X. W. and West of this danger ; but at 2 miles from its South side
there is no bottom at 30 fathoms, and deep water is carried
towards the body of the reefs, situated 9 or 10 miles to the East-
ward : these are smaller than the one above mentioned, and
consist of two clusters, extending 5 or 6 miles in a S. by W. direc-
tion from the cliffy lumps Westward of CAPE XUYTS. Captain
Flinders passed between the clusters in 35 to 24 fathoms water,
and observes, " The Southernmost patches are 2 or 3 miles
32
AUSTRALIA, SOUTH COAST.
I
Montenote
Isles.
Geographe's
Reel.
Casnarina's
Keef.
in length, and there are large rocks upon them, standing above
water ; the Northern patches extend 8 miles along the coast,
from which they are distant 3 miles ; and on the Eastern parts
there are also some rocks above water : but there are none upon
the Western reef."* Magnetic Variation near this spot, in 1802,
was 1 41' W. with the ship's head N. N. E.
The MONTENOTE ISLES, placed in the French Chart of M. Frey-
cinet, in lat. 32 11' S., Ion. about 131 48' E., at 5 or 6 leagues
off the land abreast of NUYTS' REEFS, are described t as four small
low sterile rocks; the largest being to the S. W., with 36 fathoms
water midway between them and the GEOGRAPHE'S REEF, situ-
ated 11 \ leagues to the S. 31 E. These Isles were not seen by
Captain Flinders, who passed 8 or 9 miles inshore of the above
position of them, in 30 fathoms water ; unless they prove to be
some of the " large rocks standing above water," that were
noticed by him on the outer NUYT'S REEFS : this appears not at
all improbable, as the French ships passed at a great distance
from this part of the coast, and took their departure from it before
coming abreast of the projection (CAPE ADIEU of their Chart) off
which the Isles are immediately situated. A ship, in passing, had
better be certain of avoiding these dangers, by giving CAPE
NDYTS and the land to the Westward of it a berth of 7 or 8
leagues. Magnetic Variation near this spot was 1 41' W. in
1802, with the ship's head N. N. E.
GEOGRAPHE'S REEF, seen by the French corvette of that name
in 1802, is laid down in their Chart 11 leagues South from NUYTS'
REEFS, or in lat. 32 40' S., Ion. 132 7' E. : it appears to be of
small extent, and entirely covered, with 44 fathoms 6 or 7 miles
to the S. W., and the same depth as many leagues to the S. by
E. of it ; but the Soundings are no indication of its vicinity, and
are deeper near this dangerous patch than at a much greater dis-
tance to the S. Eastward.
CASUARINA'S REEF appears to be of the same description as
the above, but somewhat larger, and is placed in the French Chart
17 or 18 miles W. 24 S. from the North point of the I. ST.
FRANCIS, or in lat. 32 40' S., Ion. 132 56' E. : 38 fathoms are
Flinders, vol. i. p. 09. f Voy. auxTerr. Aust. par M. Freycinet, p. 140.
AUSTRALIA, SOUTH COAST. 33
laid down at 7 or 8 miles to the Southward, and the same depth
at 10 or 11 miles N. W. by N. from it ; but in the latter position,
Flinders' Chart (Plate IV.) shows only 30 fathoms, with 35
midway between this danger and POINT BELL, shoaling very
slowly towards the land.
CAPE NUYTS, in lat. 32 2' S., Ion. 132 18' E., is the high Cape Nuyts.
cliffy extremity of some rocky land that extends Westward
upwards of 3 leagues, towards the lumps of land alluded to in the
neighbourhood of NUYTS' REEFS ; whence it takes the direction
of N. W\ by W. for nearly 20 leagues, and forms the GREAT
AUSTRALIAN BIGHT. A pyramidal rock lies near the Cape; and
to the Eastward of it are two small bights, with a steep rocky
projection between them ; but they are both open to the South-
ward, and encumbered with rocks, which appear to front the
shore for several miles on each side of the Cape.
FOWLER'S BAY is formed round the N. E. side of a low cliffy Fowler's Bay.
point bearing the same name, in lat. 32 F S., Ion. 132 27' E.,
which projects 4 or 5 miles S. Eastward from the general line of
the coast,, and is about half a mile broad, low and sandy. The bay
is nearly 3 leagues across, and 4 or 5 miles deep, with 3 and 4
fathoms about a mile from the beach at the bottom of it, which
increase to 17 and 18 fathoms towards the steep rocky shore in
its N. Eastern part. Captain Flinders, in the Investigator,
anchored here in January 1802, and had 3| fathoms fine sandy
bottom, at 1| mile from the head of the Bay, with POINT FOWLER
bearing S. 35 E., distant 2 or 3 miles. That intelligent officer
observes, " FOWLER'S BAY may be useful to a ship in want of
a place of shelter: it is open only to the three points of the
compass between S. E. by S. and E. S. E. ; and it was evident,
from plants growing close to the water side, that a swell capable
of injuring a vessel at anchor was seldom if ever thrown into it.
No fresh water was discovered round the shores of the Bay, nor
was there any wood large enough for fuel nearer than the brow
of a hill 2 or 3 miles off. Two teal were shot on the beach,
whence it seemed probable that some pond or lake of fresh water
was not far distant; a sea pie and a gull were also shot, and a
few small fish caught alongside. These constituted every thing
like refreshment obtained here, and the botanists found the scan-
F
34
AUSTRALIA, SOUTH COAST.
and land to
the Eastward
Point Bell.
Variation. tiness of plants equal to that of the other productions. The Mag"
netic Variation, with the ship's head E. S. E., was 3 IT W. ;
and in the offing, with the head N. N. E., it was 1 41' W. ;
these corrected, should give 25' W., with the ship's head North
or South." *
Point Fowler, POINT FOWLER must not be approached nearer than f of a
mile, on account of a reef that projects nearly that distance from
it to the N. E., and which fronts its shores also on the South and
West sides to a somewhat less extent. Breakers also surround two
cliffy projections of the coast that form the N. E. point of FOW-
LER'S BAY, and bear from POINT FOWLER E. N. E. 10 or 12 miles,
appearing at that distance like an island : round the East side of
these cliffs the shore trends into a sandy bight open to the S. W.
POINT BELL, in lat. 32 17' S., Ion. 133 5' E., is low, with a
small rising near its extremity, and projects considerably from
the coast line, having a broad flat rock, surrounded with breakers,
one mile to the Westward of it. The coast between FOWLER'S
BAY and POINT BELL is moderately elevated, but barren and sandy;
and is broken into three sandy bights, that are separated from
each other by cliffy projections of whitish appearance, and fronted
by breakers : off the Easternmost of these, at 2 and 3 miles from
the shore, lie SINCLAIR'S ROCKS, bearing from POINT BELL N. W.
W. distant 3 leagues ; they are four in number, and small, with
breakers about them, and 7 fathoms on a coral bottom in the bight
to the Eastward, at 2 miles from the main.
Off this part of the coast, the Soundings are generally from 30
to 34 fathoms, between 5 and 6 leagues offshore, but are not
regular ; and 20 fathoms are found at 2 or 3 miles from the rocks.
They are no guide for approaching the coast ; and on account of
some small detached reefs that have been seen by the French at
a considerable distance from any land, this part should not be
approached in the night, or without observing a good look-out, t
NUYTS' ARCHIPELAGO is contained in a large bight of the main
coast, between POINT BELL and POINT WESTALL, that compre-
hends several deep bays, and is the East extremity of the land
of New Holland that was discovered by PETER NUYTS, in 1627.
Flinders' Terr. Aust. vol. i. p. 105.
t Vide p. 22, Geographe's and Casuarina's Reefs.
Sinclair's
Rocks.
Soundings.
Nuyts' Archi-
pelago.
AUSTRALIA, SOUTH COAST. 35
The principal Islands of this Archipelago are those of ST. PETER
lying near the main between DENIAL and SMOKY BAYS, and the
ISLES of ST. FRANCIS at 6 leagues distance in the offing ; the
latter afford good anchorage in PETREL BAY ;* but there is none
under the other islands, and the bays in the main coast are shoal.
Some rocks are scattered among these islands, but the water is
generally deep close to them, and they are safe to approach,
except between PURDIE'S ISLES and POINT BELL, where there is
a sunken rock rising out of 9 fathoms water, upon which the
swell does not always break.
There is no Tide among them, that is worthy of notice either Tides,
for its velocity, or rise and fall ; and they lie too much in a bight
to be much visited by currents.
Land and sea breezes are experienced in this ARCHIPELAGO Land and Sea
during the summer months ; the sea-breeze setting in from the
S. Eastward, usually about noon, after a few hours' calm or light
winds, and veering at night to the N. Eastward.
Here the Magnetic Variation ^begins to be a little Easterly Variation,
with a ship's head North or South, and gradually increases
towards BASS' STRAIT.
PURDIE'S ISLES, the N. Westernmost of NUYTS' ARCHIPELAGO, Purdie's isles,
lie 3 or 4 miles from the shore to the Eastward of POINT BELL,
and consist of one principal island, somewhat elevated, 6 miles
S. E. | E. from POINT BELL, with a ledge of rocks on which are
some smaller islets, extending 3 miles from it to the E. N. E.
A separate islet also lies nearly 3 miles East from the largest
island, and a smaller one | of a mile off its South end, to which
it is probably joined by a reef that extends from each. The
space between these isles and the main to the Northward, con- A sunken Rock
tains a small sunken rock, on which the sea breaks only at times,
bearing E. by S. \ S. from POINT BELL, and 2| miles N. N. W.
\ W. from PURDIE'S largest isle; there are 12 and 14 fathoms,
1 \ mile to the W. S. W. of it, and 9 fathoms close to its
S. W. side. The French corvette Geographe having used this
channel in 1803, and passed very close to the Southward of the
rock without seeing it, there is a probability that other dangers
of a similar nature may exist near it : and the navigator should
* Page 37.
36
AUSTRALIA, SOUTH COAST.
Isles of St.
Peter.
therefore prefer the passage Southward of the group, where from
20 to 30 fathoms, on a regular bottom of coarse sand and shells,
were found by the Investigator towards the ISLES of ST. FRANCIS
and LACY, and 17 to 20 fathoms between PURDIE'S N. E. ISLET,
Lound'sisie. and LouND's ISLE, situated 5 miles from it, in the direction
E. 19 S. Midway between the latter and the main, which is 5
miles to the Northward, the Soundings are regular, in 16 to 18
fathoms, on a bottom of coarse sand and shells.
From POINT BELL, the coast extends about E. | N. 6 leagues
Point Peter, to POINT PETER, at the entrance of DENIAL BAY, and forms
several sandy bights that are open to the Southward ; in the
centre one of which, the French Chart places a line of breakers
at 2 miles from the shore.
The ISLES of ST. PETER are the N. Easternmost of NUYTS'
ARCHIPELAGO, and the most considerable in size ; the Northern-
most is low and sandy, about 6 miles in length and 3 or 4 miles
broad : it lies very near the main land, which abreast of it is low,
and of the same character, and is connected with it by a shoal
and some dry rocks ; whence the shore trends round to the
Northward and Westward, towards POINT PETER, and forms
Denial Bay, DENIAL BAY. Another island, smaller in size, but more elevated,
lies off its S. W. side, and is connected with it by a rocky shoal,
on which are only 7 or 8 feet water : the S. W. point of this
island lies 7 miles S. J E. from POINT PETER, and there are 10
and 12 fathoms between them, shoaling towards the latter and
towards DENIAL BAY, which, though 7 or 8 miles in depth, has
only 3 and 4 fathoms water just within its entrance, and is too
much occupied by shoals to afford safe anchorage.
Round the North side of POINT PETER is a small boat har-
bour, with 4 fathoms in its entrance ; but this depth rapidly
decreases among many shoals and banks to the N. Westward,
and the creek terminates in an extensive morass.
On the S. E. side of the ISLES ST. PETER, the low sandy shore
of the main forms SMOKY BAY, which is 6 or 7 leagues across
towards POINT BROWN; but it is very shoal, and too much
exposed to the Southward and Westward to afford safe an-
chorage.
Franklin's j n tne m iddle of the entrance to SMOKY BAY, lie FRANKLIN'S
isles,
and a boat bar
bour in it.
Smoky Bay.
AUSTRALIA, SOUTH COAST. 37
ISLES, two in number, extending 3 miles N. E. by E. and S. \V. by
W., and nearly joined together by a reef that is partly uncovered ; a
similar reef also extends from the East and West extremes of
these Isles ; and there is a detached reef with rocks above water, and dangers
between 2 and 3 miles N. E. by X. from their North point. Shoal n
water appears to occupy the space of 7 or 8 miles between this
reef and the large sandy ISLE of ST. PETER, and towards the
shore of SMOKY BAY, which is equally distant : on the West side
it shelves off into 16 fathoms, at the distance of 1| mile, and off
the West end of the Isles are 21 fathoms on a coral bottom, at a
mile from the breakers.
The ISLES of ST. FRANCIS are 1 1 in number, and compose the Isles of st
S. Westernmost group of NCYTS' ARCHIPELAGO ; but one only
of them, which is in the middle of the cluster, is of any con-
siderable size, and it bears the name of the whole. ISLE ST.
FRANCIS is about 3 miles in length, N. W. and S. E., and about
half a mile across near the middle, which is a sandy isthmus,
connecting the two moderately high and cliffy extremes, whose
breadth is from 1 \ to 2 miles. The two next islands, in point of
size, lie 2 and 3 miles off its South point ; and to the S. Westward
of these, the French Chart places two more that were not seen
by Captain Flinders, who had very hazy weather while passing
3 or 4 leagues to the Northward of them. The Southernmost
of these is placed 3 leagues S. S. W. \ W. from the South point
of I. ST. FRANCIS, and the other a league from it in the direction of
N. E. by E. \ E. ; but their positions have not been precisely
ascertained, and there are no Soundings at 36 fathoms, 3 leagues
to the S. E. of them.
ISLE ST. FRANCIS affords very good anchorage, and complete
shelter for 2 or 3 ships, in a small sandy bay, round its N. E.
side, where the Investigator anchored in the early part of Feb-
ruary 1802, in 10 fathoms sandy bottom, half a mile from the
shore, and named it PETREL BAY. This anchorage is quite safe Petrel Bay.
to approach, and is defended by the large island in every direction
except the Northward and Eastward ; in that quarter are four
small islands from half a mile to 2 miles distant, with good
channels among them, and to seaward, on either side, where 10
and 13 fathoms are found between bold shores: but a bar, with
38 AUSTRALIA, SOUTH COAST
6 and 7 fathoms on it, extends Eastward from the North point of
the island, with 10 fathoms close to it, on both sides.
Abundance of the dark brown birds called " Sooty Petrels,"
were obtained here, by sending people on shore to collect them
Refreshments after dusk, and the barnacle geese, mentioned at page 26, were
observed to frequent the island occasionally ; but it is probably
at a season when the vegetation is not so burnt up as at the
period of the Investigator's visit, when the heat of the sun was
very great. No fresh water was to be found on these or the
neighbouring islands, nor were fish procurable with a seine.
Between the ISLES of ST. FRANCIS and ST. PETER lie LACY'S
Evans' isle. ISLES and EVANS' ISLE, of moderate elevation, and 5 miles apart :
the latter has a reef that is partly dry, extending half a mile off
its S. E. side, close to which are 19 and 20 fathoms, on a regular
bottom ; deepening to 24 fathoms near some dry rocks, on a
circular reef about a mile in extent, situated 3 or 4 miles from it
in the direction of E. by S. S.
Lacy's Isles. LACY'S ISLES are two in number, and are 1| mile apart; the
Northernmost is very small, with a dry rock and breakers pro-
jecting from its East side, and a detached dry rock surrounded
with breakers, lying S. W. by S. from it, one mile distant ; they
are bold to approach, and the largest isle has 24 fathoms broken
shells, a mile from its S. W. point.
Point Brown, POINT BROWN is a low sandy projection, in lat. 32 37' S., Ion.
133 48' E., and has two small rocks close to its extremity, with
breakers surrounding them, and extending 4 or 5 miles along
and Soundings the shore to the Northward. The Soundings are 24 fathoms 2
miles to the Westward, and 23 fathoms at 3 miles to the South-
ward of it ; which depth shoals gradually to the Eastward, in the
direction of the land towards STREAKY BAY.
Cape Bauer. CAPE BAUER is a cliffy head projecting 5 or 6 miles Westward
from the coast line, in lat. 32 44^ S., Ion. 133 58 E., and on
its North side is fronted by breakers that extend from it nearly
three quarters of a mile ; the land then trends to the Eastward
and Northward, and forms the low sandy shore of STREAKY
streaky Bay. BAY ; which has not been minutely examined, but is open to the
Westward, and appears too much occupied by shoals to hold out
a prospect of finding safe anchorage in it. This Bay derived its
AUSTRALIA, SOUTH COAST. 39
name from the circumstance of being filled, in its inner part,
with streaks of light coloured water, apparently shoal, and bearing
on its surface much refuse from the shore, and sea-weed ; the
depth is 7 fathoms at less than a mile from these suspected
appearances, which extend X. Eastward from CAPE BAUER, and
curve round towards POINT BROWN ; but no part was observed
to break.
At the distance of 4 or 5 miles West from CAPE BAUER lies
OLIVE'S ISLE, the S. Easternmost of XUYTS' ARCHIPELAGO; it is Olive's isle;
low, about 3 miles in circumference, and extensively surrounded
with rocks and breakers, that project from its North end upwards
of 1 \ mile. Soundings in 8 and 9 fathoms, coarse sandy bottom, Soundings,
are found between this Isle and the Cape, by borrowing towards
the latter ; and this depth quickly increases to 23 and 30 fathoms,
on opening another large bight to the Southward, in which the
French Chart places three small rocks lying close to the shore in
its S. Eastern part. A mile to the Westward of the island are
28 fathoms, and the depth varies between 24 and 35 fathoms at
the distance of 8 miles in the same direction.
Near this spot, the Magnetic Variation was as follows, in 1802 : and Variation.
16' E. with the ship's head N \ W. ; 45' E. with the head
N. by W. ; and 1 56' W. with the head E. by S.
POINT WEST ALL is a cliffy projection, in lat. 32 52' S., Ion. Point Westaii.
133 59' E., and is somewhat higher than CAPE BAUER; the
intermediate space being a bight 4 or 5 miles deep, which is
mostly skirted by a sandy beach, and is open to the Westward :
from the French it received the name of CORVISART BAY ; and it Corvisart Bay.
appears capable of affording shelter from Southerly winds, round
the North side of POINT WESTALL, where the coast trends
Easterly upwards of 3 miles before its direction is changed to
the Northward. This spot may be known by a small rock lying
near a cliffy projection in the Bay, 2 miles within the Point ; but
the Soundings in its neighbourhood have not been ascertained,
and judging from the bay on each side of it, they are probably
shoal.
A league on the S. E. side of this Point, a reef, partly dry,
extends 2 miles Southward from a small projecting part of the
coast, and in the French Chart of M. Freycinet, is continued 3 or
40 AUSTRALIA, SOUTH COAST.
4 leagues to the S. S. E. beyond the next projection : this is
similar to POINT WESTALL, with a sandy bight on each side of it,
and a reef of rocks extending a mile from its Southern extremity.
Off this part of the coast, the Soundings are 30 fathoms at 3 or
4 miles distance, and are apparently deep close to the rocks.
CapeRadstock. CAPE RADSTOCK is a bold cliffy head, in lat. 32 12' S.,lon.
134 15' E., at the Southern extremity of a range of cliffs that
line the shore 6 miles to the N. Westward. Round the East
side of the Cape, is a small bight formed by low sandy land, and
filled with rocks and breakers, which also front the Cape to the
extent of half a mile, having 20 fathoms water close to them, and
36 fathoms on rather uneven bottom, at the average distance of
5 leagues to the S. Westward.
Point Wey- POINT WEYLAND, in lat. 33 14' S., Ion. 134 32' E., is a cliffy
ind ' projection in ANXIOUS BAY, similar to CAPE RADSTOCK, from
which it bears S. 80 E. distant 5 leagues : the shore between
them is rocky and steep, with the exception of a small space to
the Eastward of the latter, and forms a bight open to the South-
ward ; in this bight the depth is 28 fathoms at 2 and 3 miles
from the shore, and there are 23 fathoms a mile from the Point.
and lagoon to Captain Flinders observes, " Round this Point, an opening was
11 ' seen of so promising an appearance, that I bore away North arid
N. E. for it, although land was in sight as far as E. S. E.
Before noon, the greater part of the open space was found to be
occupied by low land ; and no more of the opening remained,
than a small inlet through the beach, leading apparently into a
lagoon, the water of which was distinguished from the mast-
head. This inlet was fit only to receive boats; and, therefore,
we hauled the wind to the Southward, when the sandy shore
near it was distant 2| miles on one side, and POINT WEYLAND
1 1 mile on the other."*
From the entrance to this lagoon, the shore becomes low and
sandy, and extends in a S. E. by S. direction 7 or 8 leagues,
rising gradually towards a range of barren hills of moderate
elevation 4 or 5 miles inland.
Anxious Bay. ANXIOUS BAY, formed between CAPE RADSTOCK and the
* Flinders' Terr. Aust. vol. i : . 121.
AUSTRALIA, SOUTH COAST. 41
WALDEGRAVE ISLES, 10 or 11 leagues to the S. Eastward of it,
is 4 or 5 leagues in depth, but is much exposed to all Westerly
winds except those Southward of S. W., and possesses no secure
anchorage : there are 26 fathoms and upwards at 3 or 4 miles
from its shore, in all parts except the S. E. corner, where 7
fathoms on a sandy bottom are found 2| miles off the beach, and
the same depth at half a mile off the North side of the inner
and largest WALDEGRAVE ISLE, which is the Easternmost of the Waidegrave's
INVESTIGATOR'S GROUP, and is 2 miles in length East and West ;
its centre being in lat. 33 35 J' S., Ion. 134 44' E. Here the
Investigator anchored in February, 1802,* and found shelter
during a strong breeze at S. W. by S. ; but there was no escape
to the Eastward and Southward, had the wind veered to the
opposite quarter and blown hard ; the large island being joined
to the main by a sunken reef in a narrow channel, and to a
smaller island a mile West of it by a similar obstacle. Two
detached patches of breakers also lie off in a line from the small and Reefs near
island ; the outer one bearing from it West, distant 3 miles, with
27 fathoms at 2 miles all round, except to the Eastward, and a
clear channel of 2 and 3 leagues between them and FLINDERS'
ISLAND, to the S. Westward.
FLINDERS' ISLAND, the largest and most central of INVESTI- Flinders'
GATOR'S GROUP, is in shape nearly a square, each side of which 15 m '
is from 3 to 5 miles in length, with rocks projecting from the
intermediate points. Bights are formed on the 4 sides ; but that
to the North seems alone to afford good anchorage. Captain
Flinders availed himself of the shelter it gives from Southerly
winds, and anchored here in the Investigator, in 7 fathoms fine
sandy bottom, at half a mile from the beach, with the island
bearing between S. 85 E. and S. 67 W.t No fresh water was
found here, nor could firewood, even of a very small size, be pro-
cured without much difficulty ; but the island was frequented by
hair seals, sooty petrel, and small kangaroos ; and at a former
season, probably the Spring, had been visited by geese.
In approaching this anchorage from the Westward, care should and Dangers
be taken to avoid two patches of breakers lying near each other, ne
Flinders' Terr. Aust. vol. i. p. 122. f *&* 123.
G
AUSTRALIA, SOUTH COAST.
Soundings.
Tides and Va-
riation.
Top-gallant
Isles.
3 miles West from the island's N. W. point : breakers also
extend some distance off this point ; and there is a small detached
one, situated a mile to the N. N. E. from it, which may be
avoided by not shutting in the two Western points of FLINDERS'
ISLAND, till the largest of the TOP-GALLANT ISLES is in a line
with its N. E. point. Close to this rock there are 13 fathoms,
which increase rapidly to twice that depth, at 1^ [mile to the
Northward. In passing the N. E. point of the island, 5 fathoms
will be found on the edge of a spit, at the distance of half a mile,
whence the bank shelves off quickly to 25 fathoms, on a bottom
of fine grey sand, and is very regular.
The Tides here were very inconsiderable. The Magnetic
Variation in 1802, was 6' E., with the ship's head S. by E. ;
or 044' E. with the head North or South.
The TOP-GALLANT ISLES lie 3 miles East from the nearest
part of FLINDERS' ISLAND, and consist of one small but high
island, with three rocks, resembling ships under sail, off its East
side ; the whole being of small extent, and connected by a reef,
with 25 to 30 fathoms all round them, at the distance of 5 or 6
miles.
WARD'S ISLES are two in number, and bear W. N. distant 7
and 8 miles from the S. W. point of FLINDERS' ISLAND : they are
small, of moderate elevation, and surrounded with breakers ; but
their position has not been precisely ascertained, and in the
French Chart by M. Freycinet,* they are laid down as one
island with a doubtful position, 6 miles farther to the S. W. by W.
The same Chart also places a small island in a doubtful posi-
tion, 7 or 8 miles S. 19 E. from the South end of FLINDERS'
ISLAND ; but the Investigator passed 7 miles to the Eastward
of this spot in the day time, with Soundings in 35 fathoms coarse
grey sand and shells, without seeing it ;t and her commander
having also, from the summit of FLINDERS' ISLAND, seen land 5
or 6 leagues farther to the S. Westward of it, there is reason for
supposing that no island exists in the situation pointed out, or
Pearson'slsles. nearer to the Westward of it than PEARSON'S ISLES, which are
6 leagues off to the W. by S. \ S., and have two high and sharp-
Ward's Isles.
A doubtful
Island.
* Atlas Terr. Aust. Pi. 17.
t Aust. Alias, PI. IV.
AUSTRALIA, SOUTH COAST. 43
pointed peaks upon the Northernmost, that are visible 10 leagues
from a ship's deck in clear weather. These peaks are in lat.
33 5/' S., Ion. 134 13' E., and are the only objects in this
cluster whose positions can be relied on ; the remainder ap-
pearing, from FLINDERS' ISLAND, to extend in a Southerly direc-
tion about 4 miles from them, and to be composed of several
smaller islands and rocks that were not distinctly seen.* Ac-
cordingly, M. Freycinet having passed outside these islands in
the schooner Casuarina,t observed the Southern part of the
group to consist of three small islets, lying in a cluster 10 or 11
miles S. \V. by S. from the peaked island ; and places another
island, to which the name of I. DOROTHEE was given, at the I. Dorothea,
distance of 5 leagues West from it; a reef surrounding some and Rocks near
dry rocks, is laid down by that officer, about 2^ miles to the
W. S. W. of the latter ; but none of these positions are pro-
fessedly accurate, and must, therefore, be relied on with caution.
POINT DRUMMOND, a prominent cliffy head, in lat. 34 10' S., Point Drum-
Ion. 135 13'- E., projects 4 or 5 miles from the line of coast, and mond>
has a small dry rock and some breakers close to its extremity ;
with 25 to 35 fathoms, on a sandy bottom, at 5 miles round it.
The coast, from WALDEGRAVE'S ISLES to this point is of mode-
rate elevation and barren, waving in a S. Eastern direction, and
forming bights and broad cliffy heads. At the distance of 4 miles
from one of these projections, and in lat. 33 58J' S. is a small
rocky island, bearing N. 30 W. from POINT DRUMMOND, with and rocky
30 fathoms 5 miles to the Southward and S. W. of it, and 40
fathoms midway to PEARSON'S ISLES, situated about 14 leagues
to the Westward. The sea breaks a little distance off its South
side ; but, towards the main, Captain Flinders thought the pas-
sage was clear. J Another rocky island lies 4 miles S. by E. near it.
from the point, and the same distance from the main land to the
Eastward, which is sandy hereabouts, and rises gradually to
some woody ranges a league from the shore, that terminate
abruptly to the Southward, in lat. 34 23'.
To the N. W. of POINT DRUMMOND, the Magnetic Variation Variation.
* Flinders' Terr. Aust. vol. i. p. 124. f Atlas Terr. Aust. PI. 17.
J Flinders' Terr, Aust. vol. i. p. 126.
44 AUSTRALIA, SOUTH COAST.
in 1802, was 133' W. by an azimuth, with the ship's head S. E.
by E. ; and 3 56' E. by an amplitude, with the head S. W. by W.
Coffin's Bay. COFFIN'S BAY, formed to the Eastward of POINT SIR ISAAC,
in lat. 34 27' S., Ion. 135 10' E.,* is 7 or 8 miles across, and
nearly twice that depth in a S. E. by S. direction ; but it is occu-
pied by shoal water at 6 or 7 miles from its termination among
sandy cliffs, where there is probably a small inlet, and fresh
water proceeding from the hills in the N. E.
Point Sir Isaac. POINT SIR ISAAC is the North extremity of a rather low,
barren, sandy peninsula 5 or 6 leagues in length, and has two
small dry rocks close to it; at half a mile from which the Inves-
tigator had 10 and 13 fathoms water, on a loose bottom of broken
shells, and afterwards deepened to 20 fathoms on either side.
This depth increases to 22 fathoms, on approaching within 3
Mount miles of the shore under MOUNT GREENLY, which is a hill well
covered with wood, in lat. 34 20' S., and bearing from POINT
SIR ISAAC N. E. by E. distant 11 or 12 miles. It is situated at
less than 2 miles from the sandy East shore of COFFIN'S BAY,
and is elevated between 600 and 800 feet above the level of the
sea, upon a range of well-wooded hills of considerable height,
that rise quickly from the beach.
COFFIN'S BAY is capable of affording shelter from all winds
except those between N. by E. and N. W. by W. ; in which space
it is entirely open to the sea, with the exception of a sandy bay
round the East side of POINT SIR ISAAC, that has not been
sounded ; here a ship might lie about 2 miles from the shore,
nearly landlocked, provided there is a sufficient depth of water,
which a boat should previously be sent in to try. The best
anchorage for a ship to take up in COFFIN'S BAY, according to
our present knowledge of it, is in 7 fathoms fine sand and shells,
with POINT SIR ISAAC bearing W. N. W. 5 miles distant, and
MOUNT GREENLY N. N. E. \ E. : but her distance from the
nearest shores would then be 3 and 4 miles, and communication
with them tedious, and probably difficult, on account of the ex-
tensive shoals by which they are fronted.
From the number of natives seen on the shores of this bay by
* Flinders' Terr. Aust. vol. i. p. 12T.
AUSTRALIA, SOUTH COAST. 45
Captain Flinders, fresh water must be procurable in the neigh-
bourhood ; and is most likely to be found on the woody East
shore, or in the inlet before mentioned as being likely to exist
in its S. E. corner ; but a ship not driven into COFFIN'S BAY by
stress of weather, should prefer PORT LINCOLN,* for procuring
any of the supplies which this part of the coast affords ; as it is in
every respect a more desirable anchorage, and affords perfect
shelter from all winds.
POINT WHIDBEY, in lat. 34 36' S., Ion. 135 4' E.,is the rocky Pointwhidbey.
Western extremity of the peninsula that forms POINT SIR ISAAC,
from which it is distant 10 or 11 miles, with a projecting point
between them ; close to which lie two dry rocks, and some
breakers near the shore in a bight to the Southward. The South
side of the point is rocky, and fronted by breakers, round the
East side of which is AVOID BAY, that nearly insulates POINT Avoid Bay,
WHIDBEY, and contains a smooth rocky island lying about a
mile from a sandy beach. This bay is about 3 leagues across
in a S. E. by E. direction, towards POINT AVOID, and has some
black rocks and shoal water near its Eastern shore, with 21 andDangersin
fathoms a long mile from them ; but it is much exposed to the
Southward and S. W., and is unfit for anchorage.
POINT AVOID, the S. E. head of AVOID BAY, bears from POINT point Avoid.
WHIDBEY E. 23^ S. distant 4 leagues ; it is low, and has two
small rocky islands connected by a reef lying off from it to the
extent of nearly 3 miles ; with 20 to 23 fathoms about a mile
from the outer island, and 17 fathoms 1 \ mile from the low sandy
shore, in a bight formed to the Southward. These are the
Easternmost of WHIDBEY'S ISLES, which extend in a line nearly whidby'i
5 leagues to the W. S. W. from POINT AVOID, and are small, Islcs<
but considerably elevated ; the Westernmost of the group is a
cluster of small rocky lumps called the FOUR HUMMOCKS, that
bear from POINT WHIDBEY S. 13 W. distant 3 to nearly 4
leagues, and have some smaller rocks scattered among them.
The N. Easternmost of this small cluster lies detached upwards
of a mile from the others, and is situated a league W. by S. \ S.
from PERFORATED ISLE, which is the largest of WHIDBEY'S GROUP,
* Page 52.
46
AUSTRALIA, SOUTH COAST.
Greenly's
Isles.
Cape Wiles,
and Reefs
near it.
and situated near the middle of it : this island is about a mile in
length, is visible 7 leagues off in clear weather, and near its
summit has an excavation, through which the light is admitted
on both sides. The Investigator had 19 fathoms half a mile off
its North point, and from that to 23 fathoms in a channel of
6 miles between it and the islands lying near POINT AVOID.
The Magnetic Variation here, in 1802, was 1 39' E., with
the Investigator's head South.
GREENLY'S ISLES are a cluster of three small high islands,
with a peak on the Easternmost or largest, that bears from
POINT WHIDBEY S. 74 W., distant 14 or 15 miles : it is visible
10 leagues from a ship's deck in clear weather, and has 36 fathoms
at 6 miles N. E. by E. from it. These islands are not minutely
laid down by Captain Flinders,* who passed inshore of them,
and could not ascertain their Western extent ; but according to
the Chart of M. Freycinet,f who passed 2 miles S. W. of this
group, in the Casuarina, the Westernmost isle is small, and 5
or 6 miles from the peak, in the direction of S. 85 W.
CAPE WILES is a steep cliffy head, in lat. 34 57' S., Ion.
13538|' E., with two high rocks and a lower one near it ;| from
which the Cape trends 3 miles West to a low sloping point, with
breakers extending a little way off it. A small circular reef,
partly uncovered, lies upwards of 3 miles N. W. by W. W.
from this sloping point, at 2 miles off the shore ; which, abreast
of it, and as far as POINT AVOID, is composed of whitish cliffs,
with lower land forming bights between them. At 3 miles, and
nearly 5 leagues Westward of this danger, are soundings in 40
fathoms, with intermediate depths of 35 and 48 fathoms ; by
which it will be seen that the lead is no certain guide for approach-
ing this part of the coast, and that it should be avoided in the
night or in thick weather. Another circular reef, not much below
the surface of the water, lies 6 or 7 miles from the land to the
N. Westward of the above, and is nearly midway in a line
between PERFORATED ISLE and the low sloping West extreme of
CAPE WILES; bearing from the latter N.61 W. distant 14 or 15
Aust. Atlas, PI. IV. f Freycinet's Atlas, Terr. Aust. PI. IT.
{ Aust. Atlas, PL XX, View T.
AUSTRALIA, SOUTH COAST.
miles, and from POINT AVOID S. by E. E. 3 leagues. This
danger, on which the heavy S. Westerly swell breaks high at
times, has 25 fathoms a long mile to the Westward of it, and
from 36 to 40 fathoms at 7 miles in the same direction.
LIGUANEA ISLAND is about 1 J mile in length, and lies 3 miles
South from the sloping point West of CAPE WILES ; its summit
is towards the N. E. end, whence it slopes away to the S. West-
ward, and in that direction is surrounded with many rocks and
breakers. There are 40 fathoms at 3 and 4 miles to the South-
ward and S. E. of this island, and 60 fathoms, on a coral bottom,
at 6 leagues S. W. \ W. from it ; but the Soundings are irre-
gular, and apparently deep close to the shore.
SLEAFORD BAY, formed between CAPE WILES and the land sieafbrd Bay.
of CAPE CATASTROPHE, is 7 or 8 miles across to the Eastward,
and about 4 miles in depth ; but it is quite open to the South-
ward and S. E., and has not been sounded. There are 40
fathoms at 4 or 5 miles to the Southward and S. E. of CAPE
WILES, and the same depth at that distance to the Southward of
the East point of the Bay ; near which, on its S. E. side, is a
small island fronted by breakers and a dry rock. Should there
be convenient anchoring depth in the N. W. corner of this bay,
which does not appear likely, the trending of the East side of
CAPE WILES, upwards of 3 miles to the N. by W. \ W., appears
to hold out a prospect of affording shelter there from Westerly
winds ; but there can be no shelter from the Southerly swell
that generally rolls in upon this part of the coast : therefore, in
the absence of information, a ship should give the preference to
MEMORY COVE, round the East side of CAPE CATASTROPHE ;
or to PORT LINCOLN,* 5 leagues farther to the Northward.
CAPE CATASTROPHE is a prominent feature on the main land, Cape
and forms the West point of entrance to SPENCER'S GULF; its Catastr P he -
cliffy South extremity is in lat. 35 1' S., Ion. 135 54' E., and
has a round smooth summit, clothed with vegetation ; whence it
trends N. E. by E. \ E. 3 miles, and forms two sandy bights,
that are separated by some projecting cliffs of whitish and level
appearance. Behind the shore, the land rises to a rocky range
Page 52 ; and Aust. Atlas, PI. IV.
48 AUSTRALIA, SOUTH COAST.
of considerable elevation, upon which are a few trees, but no
appearance of fresh water. At the Eastern foot of this range,
and 1 \ mile round the North side of the Cape's East extreme, is
Memory Cove. MEMORY COVE, a small sandy bay about | of a mile across ;
affording shelter, in 10 fathoms sandy bottom, from all Winds
except taose between North and East ; in which quarter it is
Variation sheltered by islands at 2 to 5 miles distance. The Magnetic
Variation observed here in 1802, was 2 38' E. with the ship's
head S. by W., or 2 E. with the head North or South ; but on
the Eastern side of the high land behind the Cove, it was found
to be 3 20', and upon the summit it was 1 40' E.
and Refresh- Abundance of fish may be obtained by hauling a seine on the
sandy beach of this little bay, and small kangaroos are to be
found among the brushwood behind it ; but no fresh water was
discovered nearer to this spot than PORT LINCOLN, at the period
of the Investigator's visit to it, in February 1802,* although
recent traces of natives rendered it probable that some might be
found to exist at no great distance.
Boat Harbours To the North of MEMORY COVE, at 2| and 4 miles distance,
ward'of it rth " are * wo sma ^ er bights of the coast, in which a boat might find
shelter in 5 and 3 fathoms, from all except Easterly and N. E.
Winds. The Northernmost of these is called SHAG COVE.
I. Williams, ISLE WILLIAMS lies 2 to 3 miles S. E. from the Western extremity
of CAPE CATASTROPHE ; with a channel, nearly 1J mile wide,
between it and the Cape. Captain Flinders used this channel
in the Investigator,! in February 1802, and had not less than
12 fathoms, mid-channel, in a rippling that connected the nearest
and Soundings points ; but the Soundings are much deeper on each side, on a
bottom of fine sand. At one-fifth of a mile from the West point
of this island are 20 fathoms ; and 56 fathoms within 1| mile to
the S. Westward of it : but on its parallel, farther to the Westward,
the depth is not so great; being found, at the distance of 5 miles
to 7 leagues in that direction, to be 40 fathoms, on a regular
sandy bottom.
A sunken There is a small sunken rock, on which the sea breaks only
Rock.
* Flinders' Terr. Aust. vol. i. p. 140.
f Flinders' Terr. Aust. vol. i. p. 132 ; and Aust. Atlas, PI. XXI. View 8.
AUSTRALIA, SOUTH COAST. 49
at times, bearing N. 70 E. distant 2| miles from the N. E.
extremity of I. WILLIAMS, and nearly 2 miles S. E. by S. from
the S. E. extreme of CAPE CATASTROPHE : a bank of 12 fathoms,
on which the water is much agitated, extends from the latter
towards the rock, and has 22 fathoms close to its verge on each
side. A ship, in rounding CAPE CATASTROPHE, should borrow
rather towards the main than to the islands, and pay attention
to the ebb-tide setting to the southward out of THORNY PASSAGE.
THISTLE'S ISLAND forms the east side of THORNY PASSAGE, Thistle's is-
and is 4 leagues in length N. W. by N. and S. E. by S., and land<
from \ a mile to 2 miles wide : its south point, which is the
narrowest part, and has a small islet surrounded with breakers
close to it, lies in lat. 35 6'S., Ion. 136llJ'E. Near the
middle of the island, the land rises sufficiently to be visible 10 or
12 leagues from a ship's deck ; opposite to which, on the wes-
tern side, and at the N. W. extreme, are some white cliffs, with
a small shoal bight between them, and a sandy beach at the
bottom of it.* Captain Flinders anchored in 7 fathoms sandy
bottom, about | a mile from the N. W. side of this island, with
its north point bearing N. 7$ E. distant 1 \ mile. Here he
found two tides in 24 hours ; the flood ran to the N. N. E., 2 Tides,
miles an hour, rose 7i feet in the night, and made high water
at the time of the moon's passage over the meridian : it then
ebbed in the opposite direction, and with equal velocity.!
Aust. Atlas, PI. XXI. view 9.
( No fresh water could be found on this island ; but Captain Flinders observes,
" There were seals upon the beach, and further on, numberless traces of the kangaroo.
Signs of extinguished fire existed everywhere ; but they bespoke a conflagration
of the woods, of remote date, rather than the habitual presence of men, and might
have arisen from lightning, or from the friction of two trees in a strong wind. Upon
the whole, I satisfied myself of the insularity of this land ;| and gave to it, shortly
after, the name of THISTLE'S ISLAND, from the master who accompanied me. In
our way up the hills, to take a commanding station for the survey, a speckled yellow
snake lay asleep before us. By pressing the butt end of a musket upon his neck, I
kept him down, while Mr. Thistle, with a sail needle and twine, sewed up his mouth ;
and he was taken on board alive, for the naturalist to examine ; but two others of
the same species had already been killed, and one of them was 7 feet 9 inches
in length. We were proceeding onward with our prize, when a white eagle, with
111 M, Freycinet's Atlas Terr. Aust. PI. 17. it is laid down as part of the main.
H
50
Neptune's
Isles.
Thorny
Passage,
and islands
in it.
AUSTRALIA, SOUTH COAST.
To the southward of THISTLE'S ISLAND, a cluster of gmal?
low islands lies between the parallels of about 35 12' and
35 22' S., and from the meridian about 136 1' to 136 9' E. ;
they are called NEPTUNE'S ISLES, and are rocky and surrounded
by breakers, with some detached reefs among their northern
isles which are very low, and should be avoided in the night.*
THORNY PASSAGE is from 4 to 6 miles wide, and is formed
between the N. W. part of THISTLE'S ISLAND and the land of
CAPE CATASTROPHE ; but in this space there are several small
isles that so much contract the southern entrance of the passage,
that 1 1 mile of its breadth, between the main land and southern
isle, is alone safe for ships ; and the depth is there 20 and 22
fathoms. This is called SMITH'S ISLE; and \\ mile N. J W.
from it is I. LEWIS, of smaller extent ; with I. LITTLE still
smaller, upwards of | a mile to the N. N. W. of it. To the
eastward of these is HOPKINS' ISLE, which is more considerable,
and lies \ a mile from the white cliffs on the N. W. side of
THISTLE'S ISLAND ; to which its own shore bears great resem-
blance, but is much lower, t and is connected with it by a shoal
that extends nearly half way to SMITH'S ISLAND, and thence
to a small rock that lies 3 miles north from THISTLE ISLAND'S
north point. HOPKINS' I. and its vicinity should therefore be
avoided, and all these islands left to the eastward by a ship
using THORNY PASSAGE ; by which she will prevent the liability
fierce aspect and outspread wing, was seen bounding towards us ; but stopping short
at 20 yards off, he flew up into a tree. Another bird of the same kind discovered
himself by making a motion to pounce upon us as we passed underneath ; and it seemed
evident that they took us for kangaroos, having probably never before seen an
upright animal in the island, of any other species. These birds sit watching in the
trees, and should a kangaroo come out to feed in the day-time, it is seized and torn
to pieces by these voracious creatures. This accounted for why so few kangaroos
were seen, when traces of them were met with at every step; and for their keeping
so much under thick bushes that it was impossible to shoot them. Their size was
superior to those found upon the more western islands, but much inferior to the
forest kangaroo of the continent." Flinders' Terr. Aust. vol. i. p. 133.
The lat. of these islands is not certain to 2 or 3 miles ; the above position of
them is from the mean of Flinders' Chart, No. IV. in the Australian Atlas, and
Freycinet's Chart, No. IT, in his Atlas aux Terres Australes; which, however,
differ from each other in the extent of this cluster only 1' of lat. and 2' of longitude.
t Aust. Atlas, PI. XXI. Vie-.v P.
AUSTRALIA, SOUTH COAST. 51
of being carried into shoal water by the Tide, should the Wind
fail ; and will keep out of the strong tide-ripplings that are
experienced among them.*
It is high water in this Passage at 12 hours on full and change Tide.
days, and the Tide rises 6 to 8 feet; flowing to the N. N. E. at
the rate of 2 miles an hour, and ebbing to the S. S. W. with the
same velocity.
GRINDAL'S ISLAND in the north part of THORNY PASSAGE, islands in
lies W. N. W. 4 miles from the north point of THISTLE'S ISLAND,
and upwards of 2 miles from the main land to the westward.
It is | of a mile in length, with 11 fathoms at less than \ a
mile from its west side ; and a clear channel of 1 1 mile, con-
taining the same depth, between it and the largest of TAYLOR'S Thorny
ISLES, which bears from it N. W. by N. distant 2 J miles, and Passae
is the northernmost and largest of the islands in the Passage.
Captain Flinders says,t " it is one mile and a half long, with a
small islet off the north, and another off its south end : they lie near
2 miles from the main, and the depth between is from 7 to 10
fathoms on a sandy bottom. A ship might anchor and be well
sheltered here, off a small beach at the north end of the largest
island ; but I did not find any fresh water, either there or on the
opposite parts of the main land."
CAPE DONINGTON, in lat. 34 44' S., Ion. 135 571' E., forms c. Donington.
the south head of PORT LINCOLN, and has a small rock \ a mile
north from its extremity, and a larger rock near the shore
2 miles to the southward of it. There are 7 fathoms within
\ a mile of the former ; and to the southward of it, as far as
TAYLOR'S ISLES, the depth is very regular in 9 to 1 1 fathoms,
sandy bottom, at 2 miles from the shore.
In approaching this Cape from the S. Eastward, care must be
taken to avoid a dangerous reef\ with some dry rocks upon it,
In these tide-ripplings, H. M.'sShip Investigator, Captain Flinders, lost her
master, a midshipman, and six men, by the upsetting or filling of a boat that was
crossing over from Memory Cove to the ship at anchor off the N. W. side of Thistle's
Island; which renders care and daylight necessary in crossing this track, especially
with a weather tide. Flinders' Terr. Aust, vol. i. p. 135. f 137.
J Aust. Atlas, PI. IV.
52 AUSTRALIA, SOUTH COAST.
a dangerous that lie 1 1 or 12 miles in the direction of S. 65 E. from the Cape's
northern extremity, and 10 miles S. f E. from the S. Western-
most island of SIR JOSEPH BANKS' GROUP: its extent is not
exactly known, but does not appear to be above 1| mile; and
there are 16 fathoms at 3| miles to the E. by N. \ N. of it,
deepening to 25 fathoms 6 miles farther to the eastward.*
Port Lincoln. PORT LINCOLN, discovered by Captain Flinders in February
1802,t and entered by him in the Investigator, has an entrance
5^ miles wide, between CAPE DONINGTON and POINT BOSTON,
(a low projection in lat. nearly 34 40' S., Ion. 135 53J' E.,) and
affords complete shelter from all winds. BOSTON ISLAND, just
within its entrance, is nearly 4 miles in length, and divides the
Channel; that on the north side of itj containing 9 and 10
fathoms on an even bottom, and leading into a bay of the same
name ; in any part of which, secure anchorage may be found in
8 fathoms on a muddy bottom, except on the N. E. side of KIR-
TON POINT, where a bank appears to extend a little distance
offshore, with 5% fathoms on it at | a mile from the Point. In
mid-channel between BOSTON ISLAND and CAPE DONINGTON,
which are \\ mile apart, the Soundings are 7 to 9 fathoms on a
bottom of mud and sand, and appear deep close to the shore on
either hand. On hauling to the W. S. W. round the latter,
the BICKER ISLES will be observed to contract the channel to
less than a mile between them and BOSTON ISLAND ; but they
are bold to approach, and have 5 fathoms close to their north
side : these isles are two in number, and extend in a line 1 mile
north from SURFLEET POINT towards the S. E. extremity of
* In the chart ofM. Freycinet (PI. 17) this reef is placed in a doultful position,
11 miles N. 88 E. from the cape, and between 5 and 6 miles S. $ E. from the
S. Westernmost of Sir Joseph Banks' Group, with 17 fathoms 5 miles S. S. E. of it ;
but according to Captain Flinders,.}- this Sounding would be very close to the N. E.
side of the reef, and M. Freycinet must have passed over its northern extreme.
The most probable supposition, therefore, is, that the French chart is erroneous in
this particular, from having been constructed under more unfavourable circumstances
than that of Captain Flinders, whose accuracy and observation are so conspicuously
observable throughout his valuable and extensive surveys.
t Flind. vol. i. p. 140. J Freycinet's Atlas Terr. Aust. PI. 17.
Aust. Atlus, PI. IV,
AUSTRALIA, SOUTH COAST. 53
BOSTON ISLAND. A quarter of a mile channel, containing 3 and 4 Port Lincoln.
fathoms, will be found between these isles and the Point, and
is quite safe by avoiding the S. E. side of the southernmost isle,
which has 2 fathoms at one-fifth of a mile from it ; but the channel
round their north side is most convenient, and has regular
Soundings in 7 to 9 fathoms mud, which gradually shoal to the
S. Westward, and afford good anchorage in every part. Captain
Flinders observes,* " Betwixt CAPE DONINGTON and SURFLEET
POINT, is a large cove with a sandy beach at the head, capable of
sheltering a fleet of ships, if the depth should be sufficient, as it
appeared to be, to receive them : this was named SPALDING COVE.
Wood was not wanting there, but no stream of water could be
distinguished. On the north side of the Port, higher up, is a
projecting piece of land, with an island lying off it, nearly one mile
in length. This island, which was called GRANTHAM ISLAND,
contracts the width of that part to one mile and three quarters ;
whereas, above and below it, the width is from 2 to 3 miles." This
island is joined to the point by a shoal, and abreast of it are 4 and
5 fathoms on a very even bottom of soft mud ; except in one spot,
nearly in mid-channel to the S. E., where the depth is 3^ fathoms ;
thence it gradually shoals to the W. S. W. towards the western
corner of the Port, where the Investigator anchored in 4 fathoms
soft bottom, at a mile from its beach, and somewhat less from
the southern shore. Shoal water fronts the shore of this inner
harbour, to the extent of a quarter to 1 mile, and lies farther out
from the north than from the south side of it ; but the bottom is
everywhere mud, and there is no impediment to communicating
with the beach.
Fresh water may be procured here, by digging pits about 100 Water,
yards behind the beach at the head of the Port ; and although
discoloured by whitish clay, through which it passes, has no per-
nicious quality, nor is it ill-tasted ; this and wood, which is easily Wood,
procured, were all that Captain Flinders found of use to ships.
There are kangaroos on the main, but none were caught ; the and Refresh-
efforts of his officers and people, both in hunting and fishing,
were indeed very confined, and almost wholly unsuccessful. The
* Fliml. vol. i. p. 141.
54 AUSTRALIA, SOUTH COAST.
Pwt Lincoln, country is represented as being rocky and barren, but with a
sufficient quantity of grass, bushes, and small trees, not to look
desolate ; no part of it rises to any very considerable elevation,
but on the south shore, opposite to BOSTON ISLAND, there is a
ridge of moderately high land called STAMFORD HILL, that is
about 2 miles long, and when viewed from the north or south,
assumes a conical form. On the opposite shore, at 5 miles to the
westward, is another small elevation, called NORTH-SIDE HILL ;
behind which the country is covered with wood, but is apparently
stony ; this hill is situated at the south end of a long range of
moderately high land of barren appearance, that limits the mast-
head view of the interior country from SPENCER'S GULF.
Two miles S. W. from the fresh-water pits at the head of PORT
LINCOLN, is a sheet of brackish and useless water, called SLEA-
sieaford Mere, FORD MERE ; it is about 4 miles long, and a mile across, with
several small islands near its shore ; and is divided, near the
middle, into two branches that trend to the S. W. and S. East-
ward, and terminate within 100 yards of the head of SLEAFORD
and a brackish BAY. There is another piece of water nearly half a mile behind
pond.
the south shore, abreast of a very small islet that lies 4 miles
W. S. W. from STAMFORD HILL ; but it is of small extent, and
although too brackish to be drinkable, serves to point out where
good water may probably be found by digging, should the above
pits fail in their supply.
Tide. From the observations of Captain Flinders upon the Tide in
PORT LINCOLN,* " it appeared that the rise did not exceed 3
feet ; and that, like PRINCESS- ROYAL HARBOUR, there was only
one high water in 24 hours, which took place at night, about 1 1
hours after the moon's passage over the meridian, or one hour
before it came to the lower meridian ; yet at THORNY PASSAGE,
which is but a few leagues distant, there were two sets of tide
in the day. This difference, in so short a space, appears extra-
ordinary ; but it may perhaps be accounted for by the direction
of the entrance to the port, which is open to the N. E., from
whence the ebb comes."
" The Dip of the south end of the needle, taken at the tents,
Flind. vol. i. p. 160.
AUSTRALIA, SOUTH COAST. 55
was 64 27'. Magnetic Variation, by the theodolite at same Port Lincoln.
place, F 39' E., and at CAPE DONINGTON 4 30' E."* Variation.
At the tents, the latitude by mean of four meridian observa- Geographical
tions of the Sun taken with an artificial horizon, was 34 48' 25" S., pos
longitude, from 30 sets of distances, D and* , 135 44' 51" E.,
and from a solar eclipse 135 46' 8" E.
In February and March, Captain Flinders found the weather winds.
was generally clouded, and the winds light, coming from the
eastward in the morning, and from the southward after noon.
POINT BOLINGBROKE is a low, but somewhat cliffy projection, Point Boiing-
distant 10 or 1 1 miles N. E. \ E. from POINT BOSTON, with which broke>
it forms a bight about 5 miles deep, called LOUTH BAY, that has
two low islands of the same name in its S. Western part; the Louth Islands,
largest of these is about a mile in length, and lies about the same
distance from the bottom of the bay, which has not been
thoroughly explored. There are 10 and 11 fathoms on a
regular bottom, 2 miles off the Point, and midway to the nearest
of SIR JOSEPH BANKS' GROUP ; after which, the coast trends
north for 6 miles, and is low and sandy, with a ridge of mode-
rately high but barren land, 5 or 6 miles behind it. Abreast of
this part, at 2 miles off the beach, lies the small island TUMBY, i s i e Tumby,
the N. Westernmost of the above group ; beyond which, the land
extends 6 miles N. E., and then as much eastward, to a projec-
tion of the coast, in lat. 34 20' S., Ion. 136 14' E., where the and i an d to
hills approach the sea within 2 miles. Hereabouts the Soundings Northward -
are 13 and 14 fathoms, at 1 to 2 leagues off the shore, which then
extends northward and eastward upwards of 20 leagues, without
any remarkable sinuosity, as far as a low projecting point, named
in the French chart, CAPE CoNDiLLAC.f
SIR JOSEPH BANKS' GROUP is situated to the N. Eastward of sir Joseph
Banks' Group.
The observations for the Variation on board the ship, at anchor in the lower
part of the port, gave 2 23' /Vest, when the ship's head was eastward, and 053' E.
at S. S. E. According to the first, which were taken by Lieutenant Flinders whilst
the ship lay under Stamford Hill, the true variation should be 051'E. ; but by the
second, observed by myself near Cape Donington, 2 7'E., or nearly the same as
was found in Memory Cove. Were the mean taken, it would be 129', or 10' less
than at the head of the port." Flinders, vol. 1. p. 150.
t Freycinet's Atlas Terr. Aust. PI. IT.
56 AUSTRALIA, SOUTH COAST.
Spencer's Gulf. PORT LINCOLN, and consists of thirteen rocky and sandy islands,
mostly low, besides three rocks above water ; the whole lying
between 5 miles and as many leagues off the land of POINT
BOLINGBROKE, with apparently clear channels among them.
Captain Flinders anchored in 10 fathoms, soft bottom, half a mile
from the north side of the island nearest to the point, which he
named KIRKBY ISLAND, and found to lie 5 or 6 miles from it in
the direction E. S.* After enumerating the islands as men-
tioned above, that Officer remarks, "it is possible that some
others may exist to the eastward, beyond the boundary of my
horizon, for it was not extensive. The largest island seen, is 4
or 5 miles long, and is low and sandy, except at the N. E. and
south ends ; it was called REEVESBY ISLAND, and names were
applied in the Chart to each of the other isles composing this
group." KIRKBY ISLAND was found " destitute of wood, and
almost of shrubs ; and although there were marks of its having
been frequented by geese, none of the birds were seen (March,
1802), nor any other species of animal, except a few hair seals
upon the shore." This description, unfavourable as it is, seemed
applicable to all the group, with the exception of REEVESBY and
SPILSBY ISLANDS, which are higher and of greater extent, and pro-
bably somewhat more productive.
Variation. " The Variation, from azimuths taken on board the ship at
anchor, with the head S. by W., was 2 40' E. ; or 2 2' E., with
the head north and south ; the same nearly as was observed in
MEMORY COVE, and at the entrance of PORT LINCOLN : but an
amplitude taken on shore with the surveying theodolite, gave
3 57' E. ;" showing the land hereabouts to possess considerable
local attraction.
Any further knowledge that may be required of these islands,
will be better obtained by a reference to Captain Flinders' Sur-
vey of SPENCER'S GuLF,t than from any written directions.
CapeCondillac. CAPE CONDILLAC, in lat. 33 41' S., Ion. 137 9' E., is a pro-
jection of the low, sandy, but woody shore, that rises gradually
to a moderately elevated range of level land, by which it is
backed at the distance of 4 or 5 miles from the beach. The
Flind. vol. i. p. 152. f Aust. Atlas, PI. IV.
AUSTRALIA, SOUTH COAST. 57
Soundings are 7 and 8 fathoms, at the same distance off the s P etlcer ' sGu! S-
shore ; and 4 leagues to the W. by S. | S. is the entrance of a
lagoon that was seen from the mast-head of the Investigator,* A lagoon near
over the lowland, and is probably accessible by boats ;t the 1 '
hills abreast of it retire a few miles round its margin, and again
project on its west side, forming an angle in the level range, that
has received the name of ELBOW HILL. This and a bluff mount
11 leagues to the S. W.byW., are the only deviations from a
general uniformity of appearance that will be observable in the
back land, from SIR JOSEPH BANKS' GROUP to MIDDLE BACK Middle Back
MOUNT, which is in lat. 33 11' S., and bears from CAPE CoN- Mount
DILLAC nearly due north, distant 10 leagues ; it is visible 14
leagues from a ship's deck, and has another hill of smaller eleva-
tion, called MIDDLE MOUNT, between it and the shore to the
eastward.
From this cape ; the low, sandy shore curves in a bight to a
projection similar to it, bearing N. E. J E., distant 5 or 6 leagues ;
* Flind. vol. i. p. 154.
f In the Chart, No. 16, of M. Freycinet's Atlas aux Terres Australes, the land
forming this lagoon, is represented as an island 6 or 7 miles in length, N. E. i N.
and S. W. 4 S., which is there called ISLE VOLNIY ; its N. E. end is placed within a
mile of the main, with a connecting shoal between, but the S. W. end not within 7
miles of it ; and the Casuarina, commanded by the above Officer, is represented to
have anchored 2j miles off this southern passage, in 13 fathoms water. Captain
Flinders, while passing this supposed island, makes the following remark : " Towajrds
noon the water shoaled to 6 fathoms, at 3 miles from a sandy beach ; a lagoon was
visible from the mast-head, over the beach, and a small inlet, apparently connected
with it, was perceived soon afterward. A few miles short of this, the ridge of hills
turns suddenly from the shore, and sweeps round at the back of the lagoon, into which
the waters running off the ridge appeared to be received. The corner hill, where
the direction of the ridge is changed, was called ELBOW HILL; and since losing
sight of the bluff inland mount, it was the first distinguishable mark which had
presented itself for the survey : it lies in latitude 3343'S., longitude 136 42' E.
The coast there trends nearly E. by N., and obliged us to haul close to the wind, in
soundings of 7 to 9 fathomi."
Which of these Officers has been most correct in bis obserrations here, must ba
left for future navigators to determine; but I am induced to suppose, from the
extreme lowness of the land, that it may be partly overflowed occasionally, and
was in this inundated state when visited by Freycinet, 11 months after Flinders;
this supposition is also strengthened by the circumstance of the former Officer'*
Soundings being generally 1 or 2 fathoms deeper than those of the English navi-
gator, wherever dependence could be placed on the relative positions in their charts.
I
58 AUSTRALIA, SOUTH COAST. ,
"' where the width of the gulf becomes contracted to 7 leagues, and
is much occupied by shoals and shallow water, that extend off
Cape Roiiin. Do th shores. In the French chart, this projection is called CAPE
ROLLIN ; whence the coast trends northward for nearly 8 leagues,
Mount Young, to the foot of MOUNT YOUNG, which is the highest of several
hummocks that rise from low land, and is visible 9 leagues from
a ship's deck. Abreast of it, the shore takes a more easterly
Point Lowly, direction to POINT LOWLY, which, as its name implies, is formed
by low land ; it bears N. E. by E. \ E., distant 6 leagues from
the foot of MOUNT YOUNG, with two bights between them, that
are separated from each other by an eminence called HUMMOCK
HILL ; at the back of which is another hill, standing alone on the
low land, 6 or 7 miles to the N. W. by W.
The East shore of SPENCER'S GULF, approaches POINT LOWLY
within 7 or 8 miles, and is fronted by a sandy spit, which projects
and land oppo- to the W. by S., and sometimes dries to the extent of 3| miles ;
this spit has shoal water extending from it beyond mid-channel,
with 8 and 10 fathoms close to its west side, and 3 or 4 fathoms
to the northward. A ship passing upwards must therefore keep
the western shore aboard on coming up with POINT LOWLY ; at
\\ mile eastward of which, are 9 and 10 fathoms, which after-
wards decrease on an uneven bottom, in steering to the north-
ward. Here the Gulf assumes a river-like form, and after trend-
ing 3 or 4 leagues north, with shoals fronting its banks to the
extent of 2 miles in some places, the shores rapidly approach
each other, and are finally united in lat. 32 24' S., Ion. 137 45' E.*
Captain Flinders, having anchored in the Investigator 12 or 13
Tides. miles above POINT LOWLY, experienced two regular Tides in 24
hours ; the flood running a mile and a half an hour to the north-
ward, rising 6 or 8 feet, and making high water at half past 2, on
full and change of the moon. The Magnetic Variation was
Variation. found to be 042' E., with the ship's head S. by E. to S. S. E. ;
or 1 37' E. with the head north and south.
Refreshments. The further and final examination of this Gulf, was effected in
his boat, and in progress of it numerous black swans, ducks, and
sea-pies or red-bills, were observed : they were usually found
* Aust. Atlas, PI. IV., and PI. XXL, View 10.
AUSTRALIA, SOUTH COAST. 59
among the flats that occupy a considerable portion of the space J
between the shores ; the former would not allow themselves to
be approached, but of the other kinds a variety were shot, and
proved a desirable change from a long course of salt diet. Cap-
tain Flinders found no fresh water at the head of the Gulf, and in
describing the country which forms it, he observes, " It seemed
remarkable, and was very mortifying, to find the water at the
head of the Gulf as salt nearly as at the ship ; nevertheless it
was evident, that much fresh water was thrown into it in wet
seasons, especially from the eastern mountains. The summits
of the ridge lie from 3 to 4 leagues back from the water side, but
the greater part of that space seemed to be low, marshy land.
To the northward no land was visible, and to the westward
but one small elevation of flat-topped land ; all else in those
directions was mangroves and salt-swamps, and they seemed to
be very extensive."*
The loftiest of the hills to the N. Eastward of this part is Mount Brown.
MOUNT BROWN, in lat. 32 30' S., Ion. 138 0|' E., whose eleva-
tion is upwards of 3000 feet above the sea, and admits of its
being seen 20 leagues in clear weather. Other peaked moun-
tains of considerable height extend to the northward, along the
summit of the same rocky barren ridge, as far as lat. 32 7|' S.,
where it terminates with MOUNT ARDEN ; beyond which nothing Mount Arden.
is visible from the sea.
From the low point of land situated 7 or 8 miles east from
POINT LOWLY, the coast trends in an undulating form to the
southward and S. W. for 20 leagues, and rises gradually to
moderately elevated hills of barren aspect, similar to those on
the western side of the Gulf. A remarkable object on the highest
part of these ranges is called BARN HILL ; it is in lat. 33 34' S., Barn Hill,
Ion. 138 9' E., at 12 miles from the beach, and in clear weather
may be seen at the distance of 12 or 14 leagues. There is
another hill nearly equal in height, about 20 miles south from it, an d another,
that is also visible from SPENCER'S GULF, and is situated 5
leagues north from the beach at the head of the GULF ST.
VINCENT.
* Flind. vol. i. p. 158.
AUSTRALIA, SOUTH COAST.
POINT RILEY is a cliffy projection in lat. about 33 53' S., Ion.
Point Riley. ^ogQ/g^ and wjth APE CoNDILLAC to the N.W.byW.,
contracts the width of the Gulf to 7 leagues. Above it, as far as
POINT LOWLY, the east shore is encumbered with very extensive
shoals, that appear to be connected with it, and lie off between
5 and 12 miles from the beach ; which makes it advisable to keep
within 5 or 6 miles of the opposite shore, where there will not
be less than as many fathoms water, and usually more. The
Great Eastern most prominent part of this bank is called the GREAT EASTERN
Shoal,
SHOAL; it extends more than 12 miles off the land, to its western
verge of 3 fathoms, which bears S. 25 W. distant 4 leagues from
the extremity of POINT LOWLY, and is nearly the same distance
E. by S. from MOUNT YOUNG. The lead is no certain guide for
this part, as there are 10 fathoms close to 3 ; therefore, in order
and directions to avoid it, after rounding CAPE ROLLIN, steer to pass 4 or 5 miles
' S. Eastward of MOUNT YOUNG and HUMMOCK HILL ; then keep
MIDDLE MOUNT a little open to the southward of the foot of
MOUNT YOUNG (bearing about S. 75 W.) until MOUNT BROWN
opens of POINT LOWLY (N. 15^ E.); you will then be in mid-
channel, in 6 or 7 fathoms water, at about as many miles from
the latter, and must not open MOUNT BROWN much to the east-
ward of it, in order to keep clear of the shoals that project more
than half way from the opposite shore. The lead must be hove
quickly here, as the channel is not more than 3 or 4 miles wide
in some parts, though the space between the shores abreast, is
from 4 to 6 leagues.
Middle Shoal. MIDDLE SHOAL extends 10 miles off the land to the north-
ward of POINT RILEY, and appears to be always covered. With
the GREAT EASTERN SHOAL it forms a bight that approaches within
5 miles of the land abreast of BARN HILL, where there are 5 and
6 fathoms water on a soft sandy bottom, at 2 miles from its edge.
Its west extremity bears N. by W. % W. from POINT RILEY,
distant 10 miles, with 5 fathoms at half a mile from it, and 10
fathoms on each side ; but this depth decreases in a bight which it
forms with the point, and a channel may probably be found to
exist there, between the shoal and the main land to the eastward.
Shoal offPoint There is a detached skoal, on which the sea breaks at times,
situated between 4 and 5 leagues S. S. W. W. from POINT
AUSTRALIA, SOUTH COAST. 61
RILEY, and 7 miles N. W. \ N. from a projection of white sandy ***
cliffs, in lat. 34 10' S., Ion. 137 27' E. The Investigator* had 6
to 12 fathoms on a very uneven bottom, between 2 and 7 miles
westward of this danger ; and M. Freycinet, who passed inshore
of it in the Casuarina,t found 4 and 5 fathoms at one third across
from the main, which in his chart is delineated as two shoal bights
that are separated by a point of the same description, close to
which is a small island.
The Magnetic Variation here, in 1802, with the ship's head
S. W. byS. was 4 38' E.
POINT PEARCE, in lat. 3428|' S., Ion. 137 21' E., is the Point Pearce,
west extremity of a long narrow strip of land that projects 7 or
8 miles from the line of coast, and terminates with a small piece
of land, whose connexion with the main has not been satisfac-
torily ascertained. Round the north side of it is a large bight
about 6 leagues across, and 2 leagues in depth, having a remark-
able sand-hill at the north end, some low reddish cliffs near the
middle, and in the southern part a small cliffy islet, from which
breakers project in a northerly direction about 2 miles, with 4 and dangers
fathoms water half a mile to the westward of them. This islet
lies close to the main, 6 miles E. N. E. from POINT PEARCE, to
which it is joined by a shoal that fronts the shore upwards of a near it.
mile, and renders this part unfit for anchorage with the wind
blowing from any western point. There are 6 fathoms on a sandy
bottom, 3 miles westward of the above-mentioned red cliffs, and
17 or 18 fathoms as many miles in the offing ; this increases to
24 and 25 in the middle of the Gulf, which is here about 18
leagues wide, and apparently clear of dangers, except those
already pointed out.
On the south side of POINT PEARCE, the shore falls back 7 or
8 miles to the east, and then trends southward ; it is low and
sandy, but rises gradually to a level country of moderate eleva-
tion, and well wooded.
The Magnetic Variation, in 1802, at 3 or 4 leagues off the
Point, was 2 46' E. with the ship's head north or south.
HARDWICKE BAY, formed to the north by POINT PEARCE, and Hardwicke
to the south by CORNY POINT, is upwards of 9 leagues across in Bay *
Aust. Atlas, PI. IV. t Freyc. Atlas, PI. 16.
62 AUSTRALIA, SOUTH COAST.
Spencer's Gulf. & ^ N> E direction) and a b ou t6 in depth ; it affords good shelter
from all southern winds, and none others seem to blow here with
much strength. In its northern part are 7 to 9 fathoms between
4 and 5 miles off shore, and the same depth about the middle of
the bay, at as many leagues from the land at the bottom and on
each side of it ; but the soundings vary to the depth of 16
fathoms, in the intermediate spaces, and are very irregular on a
sandy bottom ; especially 7 or 8 miles S. Westward of POINT
PEARCE, where 6 and 16 fathoms near each other, render the
vicinity suspicious.
Corny Point, CORNY POINT, in lat 34 52' S., Ion. 137 3' E., is remarkable,
and projects 2 miles from the direction of the coast, with breakers
a little way off its extremity, and a small sandy beach on each
side of it ; whence, Captain Flinders observes,* " The land trends
eastward about 7 leagues to the head of the bay, but what the
depth of water may be there, or whether any fresh streams fall
into it, I am not able to state ; the land, however, was better
wooded, and had a more fertile appearance, than any before seen
in the neighbourhood.''!
The Magnetic Variation, in 1802, with the ship's head S. S. W.
was 3 15' E., or with the head north and south 2 1' E. ; being
22' more than at PORT LINCOLN.
and land io the Round the west side of CORNY POINT, the coast extends
southward. g> 2 yo W . ]Q O r 11 miles, to a cliffy projection on the north side
of a bight that is open to the westward ; abreast of which are 23
to 28 fathoms, at 3 leagues to the westward.
Cape Spencer. CAPE SPENCER, the east point of entrance to the Gulf of that
name, is the S. W. extremity of a peninsula nearly 40 leagues
in length, and from 3 to 9 leagues across, which separates SPEN-
CER'S GULF from the GULF of ST. VINCENT, and is called YORKE'S
PENINSULA. It is composed of three cliffy points, the southern-
Flind. vol. i. p. 164.
f A natives' fire having been seen immediately behind, Corny Point, it is probable
the beach on its eust side may repay the trouble of hauling a seine there, and that
fresh water may be found by digging above high water murk ; therefore, the most
convenient anchorage in this bay, would appear to be in 5 or 6 fathoms, sand and
small stones, 2 or 3 miles east or E. by N. from the Point, and the same distance
from the shore to the southward ; except with a fresh easterly wind, when a berth
3 or 4 leagues farther to the eastward would be much better sheltered.
AUSTRALIA, SOUTH COAST. 63
most of which is in lat. 35 18' S., Ion. 136 55' E., and \^ s P encer ' sGul f-
northern extremity 6| miles from it to the N. N. W. | W. ; near
which is a cluster of black rocks lying near the shore. Three
small islands, with several rocks and a reef, He as far out as 5
miles to the southward from the Cape, but have not been
minutely examined ; they are called ALTHORPE'S TSLES ; the Aithorpe's
Isles*
largest is about a mile in extent, and has 35 to 45 fathoms at 8 or
9 miles to the westward and southward of it, and 22 fathoms
6 miles to the eastward ; in which direction the shore trends
E. by N. | N. upwards of 8 leagues, and forms the north side
of INVESTIGATOR'S STRAIT.
GAMBIER'S ISLES lie nearly in the middle of the entrance to Gambler's
Isles.
SPENCER'S GULF, and are four in number, besides two peaked
rocks that lie near the south side of the largest and southernmost,
which is 3 miles long, and is in lat. 35 11' S., Ion. 136 29' E. :
this is called WEDGE ISLAND from its shape, the high cliffy end
being to the S. E. ; and there are 20 to 30 fathoms in mid-
channel between it and CAPE SPENCER. The western island
of the group is detached 6 miles W. by N. from WEDGE ISLAND,
and is about the same distance S. E. by E. | E. from the S. E.
end of THISTLE'S ISLAND ; having apparently a clear sea round
it, and no known dangers near any part of the cluster. With a
leading wind, however, the eastern side of the entrance near
CAPE SPENCER is to be preferred by a ship sailing into SPEN-
CER'S GULF, being much wider and better known.
At the distance of 5 leagues N. Eastward of this group, the
Magnetic Variation, in 1802, was 1 25' E. with the Investigator's
head S. by E., and 1 10' E. with her head S. S. E. ; or 2 13' E.
with the head north or south.
SPENCER'S GULF has an entrance 15 or 16 leagues wide Spencer'sGulf:
between CAPE SPENCER and CAPE CATASTROPHE, which bear
from each other about W. N. W. and E. S. E. ; but this space
is partly occupied by clusters of islands, of which THISTLE'S
ISLAND, situated near the western shore, is the most con-
siderable. THORNY PASSAGE, formed on its west side, is safe, its Entrance ;
and free from danger except in its eastern part ; it may be used
by a ship from the westward, in preference to the middle of the
entrance, which has not been thoroughly investigated, and may
64 AUSTRALIA, SOUTH COAST.
'"'' contain other dangers than those laid down in the chart. For
the same reason, the low straggling group of NEPTUNE'S ISLES
should not be approached close, especially on their north side,
where some small low rocks and scattered reefs lie 4 or" 5 miles
from the other islands to the southward of them, and have only
been seen at a distance. The eastern part of the entrance to
this Gulf is nearly 6 leagues wide between GAMBIER'S ISLES and
CAPE SPENCER, with depths of 20 and 30 fathoms nearly the
whole distance across, and 16 to 25 fathoms at 3 miles westward
of the latter. Beyond CORNY POINT, which is 9 leagues within
the entrance, the Gulf increases in width to upwards of 20 leagues,
and there is good anchorage on both shores, either in PORT
Harbours, LINCOLN or in HARDWICKE BAY ; the former is an excellent
harbour, affording complete shelter from all winds, besides
wood and water, and possesses convenient shores either for
careening or heaving down. The Tides there do not rise more
than 6 or 8 feet, and it is to be observed as somewhat extraordi-
nary, that in this port there is only one tide of Flood in 24 hours,
whereas, in all other parts of the Gulf there are two. HARD-
WICKE BAY is not known to possess the advantage of fresh
water ; but from the presence of natives, and from dogs having
been observed by Captain Flinders on its southern shore, there is
little doubt of water being procurable there ; and it will most
likely be found either behind CORNY POINT, or in the bottom of
the bay, which has not been explored. The land in that direction
extends low and sandy in a S. S. E. direction, between two
ranges of wooded land, and forms the narrowest part of YORKE'S
PENINSULA, which is there only 7 or 8 miles across.
and anchorage. Round POINT PEARCE, which forms the north head of HARD-
WICKE BAY, there is anchorage in 8 or 9 fathoms at 2 miles
from the shore, and shelter from all winds blowing southward
of S. W. or eastward of north ; but this spot cannot be recom-
mended, on account of being much exposed to the westward ; a
shoal flat also extends about a mile from the shore, and about
twice that distance from a small cliffy island that lies E. X. East
from the Point. Here the Gulf preserves a width of 18 leagues
for twice as many miles in a northerly direction, without affording
any sheltered anchorage ; when it rapidly contracts to 7 leagues
AUSTRALIA, SOUTH COAST. 65
abreast of POINT RILEY, and is much occupied by shoals ; to avoid s P encer ' sGu !f-
which, directions have been given under the head of " POINT
RILEY," and of those projections off which they are situated.
It finally terminates in a narrow serpentine creek, upwards of
60 leagues from the entrance ; and as there can be no inducement
for a ship to visit this part of the Gulf, while the preferable
anchorages of PORT LINCOLN and HARDWICKE BAY are to be
met with near its entrance, it will be sufficient to refer the navi-
gator who may require further information respecting it, to Captain
Flinders' chart (No. IV. in the Australian Atlas,) which appears
entitled to confidence ; and to state in addition, that no fresh
water has been discovered above PORT LINCOLN, except in the
neighbourhood of MOUNT BROWN, which is too far distant from
the shore to be of service to ships.
TROUBRIDGE HILL, in lat. 35 8' S., Ion. 137 4H' E. is an Troubridge
Hill
inconsiderable hummock standing alone on low sandy land, and
makes like an island : it is about a mile from the shore to the
southward of it, and 4| miles west from the S. E. extremity of
YORKE'S PENINSULA ; off which TROUBRIDGE SHOAL extends in and Shoal ;
an easterly and E. by N. | N. direction, for 10 miles into the
GULF of ST. VINCENT, and is partly dry. At the extremity of
this shoal, the Investigator passed among several patches of
discoloured water, in Soundings of 4 to 3j fathoms ;* at a league
to the S. Eastward of which are 10 fathoms, on a coarse bottom
of coral, sand, and shells ; and 21 fathoms as much farther in the
same direction. To the westward of TROUBRIDGE HILL there with Coast to
is a large bight in the Coast that extends 6 miles north the westward.
towards HARDWICKE BAY, from which it is distant only 8 or
9 miles ; this bight is 4 leagues across, and is formed by low
sandy land that cannot be approached within 2 or 3 miles,
on account of a shoal flat which fronts it, and which extends
between 3 and 4 miles off a very low sandy point at its west
extreme. Eight and ten fathoms are found 1J mile from this
flat, but the bottom is not good ; and the situation is too much
exposed to all southerly winds, to admit of its being considered
safe anchorage, unless with the wind blowing from the opposite
direction.
* Flind. vol. i. p. 18).
K
AUSTRALIA, SOUTH COAST.
Cape Jervis.
Gulf of St.
Vincent.
CAPE JERVIS is a high bold projection of the main, in lat. 35
38' S., Ion. 138 9' E., and forms the east point'of entrance to
the GULF of ST. VINCENT.* It lies opposite the east extremity
of KANGAROO ISLAND, and forms with it a safe and convenient
Strait, called BACK-STAIRS PASSAGE ; which contains various and
irregular depths between 19 and 9 fathoms, and has deep water
close to its shores. The high land which forms this Cape cannot
boast of much vegetation on its surface, but is much intersected
by gullies, and projects occasionally in bold cliffy extremes ;
the northernmost of which, marked on Flinders' chartt N. W.
HIGH BLUFF, is 7 miles N. 30 E. from the Cape's western ex-
treme, and round its north side forms a bight that is open to
the westw.ard. The S. W. or most projecting extreme of this
prominent headland does not present so steep a face to the sea,
as in other parts of it, but slopes gradually from the hills about
2 miles inland.
The GULF of ST. VINCENT is formed between the east shore
of YORKE'S PENINSULA and a range of moderately elevated hills
which extend to the northward, in continuation of those over
CAPE JERVIS. The breadth of its entrance between that Cape
and TROUBRIDGE HILL, which bears N. 37 W. from it, is nearly
13 leagues ; and in this space there are regular Soundings in
18 to 20 fathoms, which decrease to 11 and 12 on approaching
within 4 miles of TROUBRIDGE SHOAL, and afterwards deepen to
22 in mid-channel to the eastward. On the east shore of the
Gulf, abreast of this danger, are some patches of cliffs, with 20
fathoms at 3 leagues west from them, and 15 fathoms within
3 miles ; above these, the shore becomes low and sandy, and is
fronted by a shoal flat which extends 2 miles off it, and gradually
increases its width to as many leagues in lat 34 30'. Here the
east shore approaches some cliffs on YORKE'S PENINSULA within
6 leagues, and is very low, having the above-mentioned shoal flat
extending one-third across to the opposite shore, and 8 or 9
fathoms in mid-channel between its verge and the opposite cliffs.
At the distance of 4 leagues above the latter, is a low mangrove
point, opposite to a sandy projection of the low east shore,
where the width is contracted to 6 miles, and the depth is only
Aust. Atlas, PI. XXI. View 12.
f PI. IV.
AUSTRALIA, SOUTH COAST. 67
Gulf of St.
3 fathoms in mid-channel ; the shore on each side then curves Uncent.
round in almost a circular bay, which is nearly filled with banks
of sand and mud, and forms the head of the GULF of ST. VINCENT
in lat. 34 8' S., or 30 leagues due north from CAPE JERVIS at
its entrance.*
It must be remembered that the GULF of ST. VINCENT affords no good shelter
from Southerly
no shelter from southerly winds, except in 20 fathoms and up- winds,
wards, at a mile from the north side of CAPE JERVIS, and probably
* Captain Flinders, in describing the head of this Gulf, says, " Microscopic shells
of various kinds, not larger than grains of wheat, were heaped up in ridges at high
water mark ; further back the shore was sandy, but soon rose, in an undulating
manner, to hills covered with grass ; and the several clumps of trees scattered over
them gave the land a pleasing appearance from the water side. We set off in the
afternoon for the HUMMOCK MOUNT, which is elevated nearly 1500 feet above the
level of the sea, and stands upon a northern prolongation of the hills on the west
side of the Gulf, and about 8 miles from the water ; but finding it could not be reached
in time to admit of returning on board the same evening, I ascended a nearer part
of the range, to inspect the head of the inlet. It was almost wholly occupied by
flats, which seemed to be sandy in the eastern part, and muddy to the westward.
These flats abounded with rays ; and had we been provided with a harpoon, a
boat load might have been caught. One black swan, and several shags and gulls,
were seen.
" I found the grass upon these pleasant-looking hills to be thinly set, the trees
small, and the land poor in vegetable soil. The mountainous ridge on the east side
of the Gulf passes within a few miles of HUMMOCK MOUNT, and appeared to be
more sandy ; but the wood upon it was abundant and of a larger growth. Between
the two ranges is a broad valley, swampy at the bottom ; and into it the water
runs down from both sides in rainy weather, and is discharged into the Gulf, which
may be considered as the lower and wider part of the valley. This eastern ridge
is the same which rises at CAPE JERVIS ; from whence it extends northward towards
BARN HILL, and the ridge of moun tains on the east side of SPENCER'S GULF. If it join
that ridge, as I strongly suspect, its length, taking it only from CAPE JERVIS to
MOUNT ARDEN, will be more than 70 leagues in a straight line. There are some
considerable elevations on the southern part ; MOUNT LOFTY is one of them, and its
height appeared nearly equal to that of Mount Brown to the north, or about 3000
feet: its lat. is 34 59' S., Ion. 138 42' E., and it lies 8 miles behind the beach of
the east shore. Another lies 6 or 1 miles to the N. by E. of the HUMMOCK
MOUNT, and seems to be a hill that was set from SPENCER'S GULF when it was
distant 10 or 11 leagues, and appeared above the lower range in front of BARN
HILL. The western hills come down nearly to the water side at 20 miles and
upwards above TROUBRIDGE HILL, and have the same pleasant appearance as at the
head of the Gulf, being grassy, with clumps of wood scattered over them ; the coast
line is somewhat cliffy, and not so low as the eastern shore." Flinders, vol. i.
p. 1 78, ct scy.
68
AUSTRALIA, SOUTH COAST.
Tide.
Variation.
Kangaroo
Island.
under the lee of TROUBRIDGE SHOAL; but neither of these
situations is desirable, or should be preferred to NEPEAN BAY,
where complete shelter may be obtained from all southerly and
westerly winds ; and no others may be expected to blow there
with any great strength.
There is not much Tide in this Gulf, but its ordinary rise
appears to be 6 or 8 feet, and it is high water in the northern part
about seven hours after the Moon's passage over the meridian;
Magnetic Variation 4 44' E., with the ship's head on the
meridian.
KANGAROO ISLAND, at the entrance to the GULF of ST. VIN-
CENT, is 26 leagues in length east and west, and about 10 leagues
in breadth, resembling in shape the cris, or dagger of a Malay,
with its handle to the eastward. This land is of good elevation,
and well wooded ; presenting, on its northern side, a steep cliffy
shore apparently free from dangers, and extending nearly in a
line about E. by N. N. 50 miles, with occasionally a sandy
beach.
Point Marsden. POINT MARSDEN, the north extreme of KANGAROO ISLAND, is
a cliffy projection rather lower than the land to the westward of
it, and is situated in lat. 35 33' S., Ion. 137 41' E. It forms the
Nepean Bay. north head of NEPEAN BAY, which is 6 leagues across its
entrance to KANGAROO HEAD,* in the direction of S. 53 E., and
contains three large sandy coves, which cannot be used for
anchorage, except by small vessels, for want of sufficient depth
of water. There are 6 to 8 fathoms in the space between the two
heads, and the same within half a mile of a projecting point
which forms the eastern cove ; this bight contains deeper water
than the others, and has anchorage in 5 and 6 fathoms a mile
within it, near the eastern shore, where a ship may lie well
sheltered from all except northerly winds, and procure firewood,
refreshments, and probably fresh water.f
Aust. Atlas, PI. XXI. View 11.
t Captain Flinders anchored in 9 fathoms, sandy bottom, within a mile of KAN-
GAROO HEAD, in March 1802; and says, " On going towards the shore in a boat, a
number of dark brown kangaroos were seen feeding upon a grass plat by the side of
the wood, and our landing gave them no disturbance. I had with me a double-
AUSTRALIA, SOUTH COAST. 69
Kangaroo
Here the Tide flows from the E. N. Eastward twice in 24 island.
hours, rises 4 to 8 feet, and makes high water on full and change
days at 4 o'clock by the shore ; but an hour and a half earlier, by Tide,
the swinging of a ship at the anchorage.
The Magnetic Variation here in 1802, with the ship's head Variation.
S. Westward, was 631'E.; or 4 13' E. with the ship's head
North and South ; " which," observes Captain Flinders, " is an
increase upon what was observed on the west side of CAPE
SPENCER, of 2 ; although the distance be no more than 24
leagues, and the previous increase from CAPE CATASTROPHE had
been almost nothing. It seems probable that the existence of
magnetic bodies in the land to the N. Westward, and perhaps
barrelled gun, fitted with a bayonet, and the gentlemen my companions had
muskets. It would be difficult to guess how many kangaroos were seen ; but I killed
ten, and the rest of the party made up the number to thirty-one, taken on board in
course of the day ; the least of them weighing 69, and the largest 125 pounds.
These kangaroos had much resemblance to the large species found in the forest lands
of NEW SOUTH WALES ; except that their colour was darker, and they were not
wholly destitute of fat. Never, perhaps, had the dominion possessed here by the
kangaroo been invaded before this time. The seal shared with it upon the shores,
but they seemed to dwell amicably together. It not unfrequently happened, that
the report of a gun fired at a kangaroo near the beach, brought out two or three
bellowing seals from under bushes considerably further from the water side. The
seal, indeed, seemed to be much the most discerning animal of the two; for its
actions bespoke a knowledge of our not being kangaroos, whereas, the kangaroo
not unfrequently appeared to consider us to be seals.' 5 *
Since the period at which the above account was written, this island has been
much frequented by small vessels from PORT JACKSON and VAN DIEMEN'S LAND, for
the principal purpose of procuring salt ; therefore it may reasonably be concluded the
golden age has passed away from both seals and kangaroos on the island, and,
indeed, from all God's creatures that can in any way be made subservient to the use
of destructive man.
" Some of the party saw several large running birds, which, according to their
description, seemed to have been the emu, or cassowary. A thick wood covered
almost all that part of the island visible from the ship ; but the trees in a vegetating
state, were not equal in size to the generality of those lying on the ground, nor to
the dead trees standing upright. Those on the ground were so abundant, that in
ascending the higher land, a considerable part of the walk was made upon them.
They lay in all directions, and were nearly of the same size, and in the same progress
towards decay ; from whence it would seem that they had not fallen from age, nor
yet been thrown down in a gale ef wind. Some general conflagration, and there
were marks apparently of fire upon many of them, is perhaps the sole cause which
can be reasonably assigned." Flinders, vol. i. p. 171. * 172.
70
Kangaroo
Island.
Pelican
Lagoon.
AUSTRALIA, SOUTH COAST.
also in KANGAROO ISLAND and CAPE JERVIS, was the cause of
this change in the direction of the needle."*
In the S. W. corner of the large eastern cove of NEPEAN
BAY is the entrance to PELICAN LAGOON, a considerable piece
of water that approaches within 1 mile of the southern coast of
the island, and has a small eminence called PROSPECT HILL, on
the intermediate peninsula. Captain Flinders, who discovered
this inlet on the 4th of April 1802,t describes its entrance as
"less than half a mile in width, and mostly shallow ; but," he
continues, " there is a channel sufficiently deep for all boats near
the western shore. After turning two low islets near the east
point, the water opens out, becomes deeper, and divides into two
branches, each of 2 or 3 miles long. Boats can go to the head
of the southern branch only at high water; the east branch
appeared to be accessible at all times ; but as a lead and line
were neglected to be put into the boat, I had no opportunity of
sounding. There are four small islands in the eastern branch ;
one of them is moderately high and woody, the others are grassy
and lower ; and upon two of these we found many young pelicans
unable to fly. Flocks of the old birds were sitting upon the
beaches of the lagoon ; and it appeared that the islands were their
breeding places."
In January, 1803, the French ships under Captain Baudin,
anchored about a mile to the westward of KANGAROO HEAD,
in 8 fathoms water, and explored this lagoon in their boats. Ac-
cording to their survey,! which in this particular instance has been
more minute than that of Captain Flinders, a shoal extends about
a mile off the west shore, outside the entrance of the lagoon ; and
may be avoided by keeping PROSPECT HILL a little shut over the
low east point (S. by W. \ W.) until within three quarters of a mile
of the latter ; a vessel will then be in mid-channel on the outer
bar that connects the shoals on each side; the depth will be 13
feet, and the points of entrance in a line with each other. She
may then steer in for the opening, and make free with the points ;
the water near them being deeper than in the bights. The depth
Flind. vol. i. p. 1V3. f 74. 182, 1S3.
{ Freyc, Atlas Terr. Aust. PI. 15.
AUSTRALIA, SOUTH COAST. 71
Kangaroo
in the entrance is 14 or 15 feet, which decreases to 10 J feet island.
abreast of the west point ; it continues between that and 21 feet,
on following the same shore for nearly 2 miles, till it curves to
the southward and eastward round the two low islets which are
spoken of by Captain Flinders, as lying off the east point.
These islets are connected with the point, and with each other,
by a very shoal flat. After hauling close round the southernmost
or largest of them, the channel is found to turn sharp to the east-
ward, and to extend nearly in a straight line 1| mile between
the east shore and two other islets ; here it terminates at a shoal
bar abreast the north side of the latter, having been in no part
wider than a quarter of a mile. There is a hole, containing 26
feet water, above this bar, into which a boat might probably find
a channel, as Captain Flinders remarks that it appeared to be
at all times accessible.*
The N. W. point of KANGAROO ISLAND, called by the French
CAPE BORDA, is in lat. 35 45 \' S., Ion. 136 36' E., according to Cape Borda.
Captain Flinders,t who saw it only at a distance ; but it is 3|'
farther to the eastward, by the chart of M. Freycinet4 wno passed
within a quarter of a mile of it in the Casuarina, and found the
shore very steep. The hills behind it are well wooded ; and
about 8 miles to the N. E. by E., where the land projects con-
siderably from the coast-line, they are marked with perpendicular
white streaks, that were observed in the Investigator at the dis-
tance of 5 leagues. At 3 miles on the south side of CAPE BORDA
The same officer also observes, " PELICAN LAGOON is frequented by flocks of the
pied shag, and by some ducks and gulls ; and the shoals supplied us with a few
oysters. The surrounding country is almost everywhere thickly covered with brush-
wood ; and the soil appeared to be generally of a good quality, though not deep.
PROSPECT HILL, and the parts around it, are more sandy ; and there seemed to be
swamps at the head of both branches of the lagoon. The isthmus which separates
the southern branch from the sea, is low ; but rises gradually up the clifls of the
coast." Flinders, vol. i. p. 184.
No freshwater was discovered here in greater quantity than some drainings from
the rocks on the east side of KANGAROO HEAD, where it was thought that, with much
time and labour employed in digging, water might be procured to supply a ship. The
colonial vessels which now frequent this island, doubtless find that necessary article
somewhere in the neighbourhood ; and it is probably by digging holes at the foot of
the high land.
f Aust. Atlas, PI. IV. j Freyc, Atlas Terr. Aust. PI. 1/5.
72 AUSTRALIA, SOUTH COAST.
Kangaroo
island. is a considerable ravine, leading to the interior of the island, and
appearing to be much frequented by emus.
Cape Bedout. CAPE BfiDOUT, the West point of KANGAROO ISLAND, is
situated 10 or 11 miles S. 5 W. from CAPE BORDA, and has a
small islet close to it, with a reef of rocks extending a mile from
its north side. In the French chart before alluded to, from which
this information is derived, Soundings in 37 fathoms are laid down
a long mile S. S. W. from this islet , and no bottom at 44
fathoms, 4 miles to the S. W. W. of it.
The land on the north side of this point deviates very little
from a straight line ; but on the south side it curves round into a
bight, and forms the Island's S. W. extreme, which, by the French
chart, is situated in lat. 36 3J' S., and 1 8|' west from KAN-
Three small CARGO HEAD, or in Ion. 136 48' E. It has three small islets,
surrounded and connected by breakers, extending 1 \ mile from
and some reefs it to the S. by W. A covered ree/also projects 2| miles, and
perhaps more, in a N. W. by W. direction from the outer islet,
and is nearly the same distance from the main island, with no
bottom at 36 fathoms, nearly 2 miles to the westward of it. A
ship approaching the S. W. part of this island, must look out for
to s. Eastward a small reef, even with the water's surface, which is situated
nearly 7 miles S. 61 E. from the same islet, and about an equal
distance from the nearest part of the island to the N. N. E. E.
A clear channel will be found l mile inshore of these rocks, and
at a mile from their south side ; but they should be approached
with caution, on account of the deep soundings which are found
hereabouts close to similar dangers.
Cape Can- CAPE GANTHEAUME, the south extremity of KANGAROO
theaume. I SLAND , i s i n lat. 36 4 J' S., Ion. 137 34' E., and is formed by
projecting cliffs under high wooded hills. On its west side, the
land trends N. Westward 9 or 10 miles, into a sandy bight 5
leagues across, and as many miles in depth ; at the bottom of
which, the hills retire a few miles into the interior: this bight is
quite open to the southward, and in its western part is filled with
breakers that extend 5 miles from the land, with 24 fathoms on
a rocky bottom, at 2 miles off their south side.
A dangerous A small reef, even with the water's surface, lies 5 miles S. E.
rpf*f
I E. from CAPE GANTHEAUME, with a clear passage in 29
AUSTRALIA, SOUTH COAST. 73
Kfinzaroo
fathoms between it and the land of the cape ; the latter then Mami.
trends N. E. by E. -- E. 8 or 9 miles, in nearly a straight line of
small rocky projections, to a low point of the same description, A low point.
that is visible from PROSPECT HILL, bearing S. W. by S. distant
4 leagues. Breakers extend nearly half a mile from this point,
with no bottom at 13 fathoms close to them : round its east side
the shore trends N. W. and northward into a wide bay, the shore
of which approaches within 2| miles of the foot of PROSPECT
HILL ; and thence stretches to the eastward towards the land of
CAPE WILLOUGHBY. The water appears to be deep near the
northern shore of this great bight, but there are 8 fathoms in its
western part, at 2\ miles N. E. by N. from the low rocky point
which forms its western boundary; it is, however, too much
exposed to southerly winds to afford good anchorage.
CAPE WILLOUGHBY, the east extremity of KANGAROO ISLAND, c.wnioughby.
is a thickly wooded projection, in lat.3549'S.,lon. 138 13' E.,
and is apparently free from dangers, except very close to the
shore. There are Soundings in 32 fathoms, 3 and 4 leagues
S. W. from this cape ; and very close to its extremity are 4
fathoms, which quickly increase to 20 at 1 \ mile to the eastward.
Round the north side of CAPE WILLOUGHBY is a sandy bay,
called the ANTE-CHAMBER, which is about 4 miles across in a The Anie-
N. W. by W. | W. direction, and nearly 2 miles deep. It affords
good shelter from all southern winds ; and in April, 1802, Captain
Flinders anchored there in 4j fathoms hard sandy bottom, with
the following bearings,* viz :
East point of the bay, distant \\ mile N. 84 E.
West point, distant 2| miles N.42W.
CAPE JERVIS, inner low point N. 7 W-
Eastern extreme of the coast N. 61 E.
This spot is within a mile of the beach near the middle of the bay,
and there are 6 and 7 fathoms near it, on a regular bottom that
gradually slopes off to the northward, but shoals rather suddenly
towards the beach. A South-east gale would probably throw
too much swell round CAPE WILLOUGHBY, to render this anchorage
Flind. vol. i. p. 187.
L
74
Kangaroo
Island.
Investigator's
Strait.
Soundings.
Variation.
Back- stairs
Passage.
AUSTRALIA, SOUTH COAST,
quite safe at such a time ; therefore, with a prospect of its blowiftg.
hard from that quarter^ a ship should give a preference to NEPEAN
BAY, round the west side of KANGAROO HEAD, where she may
li completely sheltered at a mile from the shore.
INVESTIGATOR'S STRAIT, formed by KANGAROO ISLAND with
the southern part of YORKE'S PENINSULA, extends upwards of
17 leagues E. by N. and W. by S., and preserves an average
width of 23 miles. With the exception of ALTHORPE'S ISLES,
near CAPE SPENCER, and a shoal flat that extends 3 or 4 miles
off a very low point to the westward of TROUBRIDGE HILL,* this
Strait is free from dangers, and contains ample depth of water.
Captain Flinders, who worked through in the Investigator, and
made many tacks from shore to shore,t says, " From 45 fathoms,
in the middle of the western entrance, the depth diminishes
quickly to 25, then more slowly to 20 ; after which it is irregular
between 12 and 20 fathoms, as far as the mouth of the GULF of
ST. VINCENT. Of the two sides, that of KANGAROO ISLAND is
much the deepest ; but there is no danger in any part to prevent
a ship passing through the Strait with perfect confidence. The
bottom is mostly broken shells, mixed with sand, gravel, or
coral, and appeared to hold well.J
" From two amplitudes to the N. N. W. of POINT MARSDEN,
and near the middle of the Strait, the Variation was 1 49" E. ;
the ship's head being S. S. E. in one case, and N. E. by N. in
the other. The true variation deduced from these, is 3 20' E."
In the east entrance of INVESTIGATOR'S STRAIT is BACK-STAIRS
PASSAGE, formed between the N. E. part of KANGAROO ISLAND
and CAPE JERVIS. It is about 4 leagues in length N. W. by W.
and S. E. by E., and 7 or 8 miles wide ; and is perfectly safe in
Page 65. f Flind. vol. i. p. 1T6.
J In the French chart of M. Freycinet, 5 fathoms are laid down eight miles south-
ward of the low point above-mentioned, with very irregular depths between that
and 9 fathoms at 4 miles to the E. S. E. of it; but these soundings, which were
obtained by him in the schooner Casuarina, differ most materially from those of
Captain Flinders, who had 5 fathoms in the Investigator not more than four miles
off the point, on its south side; and 17 fathoms on the, spot where M. Freycinet
places only 6. The same officer found a clear channel, with upwards of 9 fathoms
water, inshore of the largest ALTHORPE ISLE. f'ida M. Freycinet's Atlas aux
Terres Australes, PI. 15.
AUSTRALIA, SOUTH COAST. 75
Kangaroo
every part, though the soundings in it are very irregular between Island.
9 and 23 fathoms, on a bottom of coral, sand, and shells. The
Tide flows through it from the E. by S. 2 miles an hour, rises Tide, and
4 to 8 feet, and makes high water in its western part at 4 hours
on full and change days. Anchorage and good shelter from all anchorage in
southern winds may be found in 9 or 10 fathoms, at the distance
of a mile from its south shore ; except abreast the middle or
narrowest part of the Passage, where the depth is greater, and
the shelter not so complete. The ANTE-CHAMBER, situated round
the north side of CAPE WILLOUGHBY, is the most convenient
stopping place for a night ; or, with the wind from the eastward,
XEPEAN BAY is preferable ; as a ship will be well sheltered
there from all except northerly winds, and may lie in 8 fathoms
water a mile from the shore.
On approaching BACK-STAIRS PASSAGE from the eastward, a
ship must look out for the PAGES, which are 3 small rocky islets, The Pages,
lying between 7 and 9 miles N. 66 E. from CAPE WILLOCGHBY,
and bearing from the extremity of CAPE JERVIS S. E. J E.* The
two northernmost are conspicuous, and lie 7 or 8 miles from the
high steep land of CAPE JERVIS, with a clear channel between,
containing 12 to 21 fathoms water. The southern islet is low,
and has 20 fathoms within a mile of it.
The south side of the promontory which forms CAPE JERVIS an d shore
extends E. | S. nearly in a direct line for 7 leagues ; it is a steep abreast -
rocky shore, much cut by gullies or ravines, and covered by a
short, scrubby brush-wood on the seaward side. The hills then
fall back from the sea, the shore becomes very low, with some
hummocks of sand upon it, and trends N. Eastward 4 leagues
to the bottom of a wide sandy bay, quite open to the southward.
In the entrance of this bay, Captain Flinders, after having
explored the south coast of AUSTRALIA from CAPE LEEUWIN, met
the French corvette G6ographe, commanded by Captain Nicolas
* In the Chart No. 15 of M. Freycinet's Atlas, the PAGES are laid down 3 leagues
farther to the W. N. VV., or about midway in a line between the extremities of CAPES
JERVIS and WILLOUGHBY; but the various tracks of Captain Flinders near them, and
his well-established reputation for accuracy, afford abundant reason for concluding
that his position of them as above, in lat. 35 46i' S., Ion. 138 21' E., is the most
correct.
76
AUSTRALIA, SOUTH COAST.
Encounter
Bay.
Decaen's
Islands.
Tide.
Variation.
Baudin, on her route westward upon a similar service ; and in
consequence of this meeting, he named the sandy bight above
mentioned, ENCOUNTER BAY. Its entrance is 6 leagues across
in an east and west direction, and it is 7 miles in depth, with
soundings of 19 and 20 fathoms 5 miles from the shore, and
apparently deep water close to it ; but it is too much exposed to
the southward to afford safe anchorage, and should be avoided by
a ship in passing, on account of the bight of the coast in which
it is situated. The west point of this Bay is in lat. 35 36|' S.,
Ion. 138 40' E., and 2 miles within it Captain Flinders places
a small islet lying near the shore to the northward ;* but in the
French chart,t/owr islets are laid off what appears intended for
the same projection, with 21 fathoms, gravelly bottom, nearly 3
miles to the S. E. Situated as these islands are, between the
discoveries of the French expedition at that time, and those of
the English navigator, they are not unaptly called by the former
DECAEN'S ISLANDS ; and as long as their charts of that country
exist, the name will remind the present as well as future genera-
tions, of the conduct of that general towards the unfortunate
Flinders at the Mauritius.^
The Investigator having made many tacks off ENCOUNTER
BAY, afforded opportunities of ascertaining the Soundings to be
very regular, on a bottom of sand, sometimes mixed with shells ;
the depth was 22 to 25 fathoms, between 4 miles and as many
leagues off the land on either side, which appears free from
dangers. Here the Tide flows alongshore from the S. Eastward,
\\ mile an hour, into ENCOUNTER BAY ; and thence follows the
direction of the coast through BACK-STAIRS PASSAGE. The
Magnetic Variation in this bay appears less than at KANGAROO
ISLAND, being only 1 44' E. with the ship's head on the meridian.
* Aust. Atlas, PI. IV. t Freyc. Atlas, PI. 14.
J See Flinders, vol. ii. p. 359 to 496.
Captain Flinders, from whom this information is derived, observes, "An amplitude
taken in the morning, with the ship's head W. by S., gave 5 II' east variation ; and
in the afternoon, when the land was only 3 miles distant, and the head S. E.,
azimuths with the same compass gave 050' west. These, corrected to the meridian
in the mode I have adopted, will be severally 1 57' and 130' east; and the mean
144'. The variation had therefore decreased considerably since leaving KANGAROO
ISLAND, contrary to the natural order j which proves that the quick increase on
AUSTRALIA, SOUTH COAST. 77
CAPE BERNOUILLI of the French, inlat.3657' S., Ion. ] 39 c. Bemouim.
' E. by Captain Flinders, and in 37 OJ' S., 139 42f E. by
M. Freycinet, is a piece of sandy land rising from the beach to
a moderately elevated ridge that is well wooded. Round its
north side the shore trends E. N. E. 3 leagues, and then N.N. E.
as many more, to the bottom of a bight in the coast, called
LACEPEDE BAY, which is upwards of 6 leagues across in the Lacepede Bay.
direction of N. 24 E. from CAPE BERNOUILLI, and 7 or 8 miles
in depth : it is, however, quite open to the westward, and unfit
for anchorage. At the distance of 6 or 7 miles S. S. E. from the
north point of this Bay, are two low black rocks lying close under
the shore, abreast of a slight sandy projection which, in the
French chart,* is named CAPE MORARD-DE-GALLES ; but it Cape Morard-
deviates so very little from the coast-line on the chart of Cap- e
tain Flinders,! as to be undeserving of notice ; there are 6 and
7 fathoms water 3 miles to the westward and southward of
the black rocks, but the soundings deepen quickly to seaward.
The shore of LACEPEDE BAY is sandy, with some gentle risings
behind it, on which are some trees ; but from hence to ENCOUN-
TER BAY is one uniformly low, sandy coast, interspersed with
small hummocks of the same description, which bound the view
of the interior from a ship in passing, and are not sufficiently
remarkable to be known in different points of view. The
soundings are generally 17 fathoms at 3 miles off the shore,
passing YORKE'S PENINSULA was owing to some peculiar attraction, either in that
or the neighbouring lands. Whilst beating through the BACK-STAIRS PASSAGE, I
had observed an amplitude, when the ship's head was S. S. W., which gave the
extraordinary variation of 2 41' E., or reduced to the meridian, 127'E. ; although
we were then not so much a$ 4 miles from the anchorage where it had been found
4 13' E. Another amplitude was observed at 8 leagues to the east of CAPE WIL-
LOUGHBY, when the head was N. E.I E., and gave 25'E. variation, or reduced,
4 36'. This last is correspondent with what was observed near KANGAROO HEAD,
and in the GULF of ST. VINCENT ; but the variation of l27'in the passage is totally
irregular, and must I think be ascribed to an attraction either in CAPE JERVIS to
the N. E., or in the east end of KANGAROO ISLAND to the S. E., or to both. When
the great variation of 4 36' was obtained, both these lands were to the west ; and
when afterwards the 1 57' and l3tf were observed, the nearest land was again
to the eastward of the ship ; and nearest in the last case." Flinders, vol. i.
pp. 195, 196.
* Freyc. Atlas, PI. 14. t Aust. Atlas, PI. V.
78 AUSTRALIA, SOUTH COAST.
until it is approached in lat. 36 24' S., where the French chart
and breakers to already referred to places breakers at 3 miles from the land;
of it. but whether connected with it, and of what extent, has not been
ascertained. Captain Flinders passed in 10 and 11 fathoms
coral bottom, within 1 \ mile of this spot, without observing any
danger except breakers fronting the shore abreast of it, to the
extent of half a mile, in a space of nearly 4 leagues ; but he had
afterwards very irregular soundings between 7 and 13 fathoms,
at 3 to 4 miles off shore to the southward ; and had 7 fathoms,
coarse sand, 3 miles westward of the above-mentioned low
black rocks. Hereabouts that officer observed the Magnetic
Variation. Variation to be 125' E., with the ship's head S. S. E. \ E.;.or
3 E. with the head north and south.
Due west from CAPE BERNOUILLI, and connected with it, the
Reef off Cape French chart places a reef of dry and covered rocks to the extent
of nearly 5 miles, with shoal water off the south side of the
former, as far as 3 miles. The Investigator passed at the sup-
posed distance of 3| miles west from the cape, in 1 1 fathoms,
without perceiving this danger ; but her track was laid down
from observations taken in a squally night, and cannot be so
much depended on as that of the Geographe, who discovered the
danger 5 days before, and was 3 miles distant from its extremity
at noon on the 7th of April, 1802.* The extent of this reef is
M. Freycinet, who was senior Lieutenant of the Geographe at the above period,
and subsequently commanded the schooner Casuarina while attached to the same
expedition, in his Nautical and Geographical Account of the Voyage, says, " Off
this Cape (BERNOUILLI) some rocks rise above water; one of which is remarkable
by a slope resembling an embrasure for cannon." Pages 117, 118.
That such a reef exists, there is no reason to doubt, but it will probably be found to lie
somewhat nearer to the shore than is here laid down ; Captain Flinders having observed
a cluster of similar dangers, which he named BAUDIN'S ROCKS, to lie about Ij mile
from the shore abreast of them, whereas the French chart places them at twice that
distance : by allowing the same proportion of excess in the French estimated distance
of both reefs from the shore, it will place that off CAPE BERNOUILLI, at 2i instead
of 5 miles distance, and Captain Flinders might easily have passed a mile from its
extremity in a rainy, squally night, without its being seen. The log book of the
latter officer favours this supposition, and contains the following remarks : " At mid-
night, moderate breezes with drizzling rain tacked from the shore; (11 fathoms
water, and soon afterwards 9 fathoms) at 2, squally with rain, and a considerable
swell from S. by IV." The reef, if it exists, must have been passed in this interval,
and the swell which he experienced, was probably on opening it out from the south-
AUSTRALIA, SOUTH COAST. 79
therefore uncertain, but it is probably not so great as laid down
by the French.
Another, and more dangerous reef than the above, if it proves sesostris'Reef.
not to be the same, was reported in the Sydney (New South
Wales) Gazette of April 1, 1826, to have been seen off this
cape by Captain Drake, in the Sesostris, who made it in lat.
36 65' S., Ion. 140 20' E., and 12 miles from the land. This
longitude will place the reef 10 leagues inland from CAPE BER-
NOUILLI ; but, according to the latitude and the distance off shore,
it will bear from that cape, on Captain Flinders' chart,* W. N.
distant 4 leagues. The rocks which form this reef having been
reported to be just above water, it is somewhat remarkable that
the French corvette Gdographe should have passed, in 16 fathoms
water, 4 miles inshore of their assumed position, and the Inves-
tigator the same distance to the eastward of them, in 20 fathoms,
without any danger being perceived ; though it is to be observed,
the latter passed this way in the night, and did not see even the
reef that projects from the cape. Under existing circumstances,
there is every reason to conclude this danger, if it exist at all,
will be found off TWOFOLD BAY, instead of CAPE BERNOUILLI ;
the probability being that the Gazette has announced the longi-
tude 10 too little. Should this supposition prove correct, and
the longitude be 150 20' instead of 140 20' E., it will agree both
with the latitude and the distance offshore, in placing the reef to
the N. Eastward of TWOFOLD BAY ; but in the absence of correct
information on this point, it is advisable to keep a good look out
in approaching CAPE BERNOUILLI from the westward.
On the south side of CAPE BERNOUILLI the shore curves very
slightly inwards, and is well wooded for 1 1 miles in the direc-
tion of S. S. E. ; it then trends E. S. E. and southward, into
GUICHEN BAY of the French, which is 3 miles across to CAPE Guichen Bay.
DOMBEY, is sandy, and quite open to the westward. At its
north point is a small hummock ; about 2 miles to the westward
ward. The soundings soon afterwards increased to 15 and 18 fathoms; and having
tacked inshore, at daylight the situation of the Investigator was in 7 fathoms water,
6 or 7 miles S. by W. i W. from CAPE BERNOUILLI, but the reef was not in
sight.
* Aust. Atlas, PI. V.
80 AUSTRALIA, SOUTH COAST.
of which is a cluster of rocks surrounded with breakers, which
probably connect them with the shore. These are called BAU-
Baudin's DIN'S ROCKS, and were seen both by that navigator in the French
Itocks
ship Ge"ographe, and by Captain Flinders in the Investigator :
the former places their outer part in lat. 37 7|' S., at 3| miles
from the land, with 9 fathoms water 2J miles to the N. W. ;
and Flinders makes the same part in lat. 37 6|' S., at nearly 2
miles offshore, and had 19 fathoms within a mile of it to the west-
ward. The existence of this cluster, and of the rocks off CAPE
BERNOUILLI, renders it advisable for a ship not to approach this
part of the coast nearer than 5 or 6 miles in the day-time, or to
come under 25 fathoms at night.
Cape Dombey. CAPE DoMBEY of the French, is a sandy point of moderate
elevation, in lat. 37 11|' S., Ion. 139 46J' E., according to M.
Freycinet ; but in 37 10|' S., Ion. 139 45' E. by Captain Flin-
ders, and is mostly overspread with bushes. Some dry rocks
and breakers surround its extremity ; at 2 miles to the westward
of which are 15 fathoms water, and 35 to 38 fathoms about 6
leagues in the offing ; the French chart* places 60 fathoms
upwards of 7 leagues to the S. W. by W., by which it would
appear that the bank of soundings does not extend very far from
the shore. Round its north side, the cape trends to the east-
Guichen Bay. ward 2j miles, and then north, forming GUICHEN BAY ; which,
from the rocks in its vicinity, does not appear likely to afford good
ground for anchoring upon. The bay is sandy, and upwards of
2 miles in depth, with wooded land at the back ; but it is quite
exposed to the westward, and has not been sounded.
Rivoli Bay. RivoLi BAY of the French, is an open bight in the coast, whose
shore has not been perfectly explored, but appears quite exposed
to all western winds. CAPE JAFFA, its north point, is in lat.
3730|'S., Ion. 140 4' E., according to Captain Flinders, and
may be distinguished by a small peaked hummock on it, and an
islet close to its south extremity. The French chart places a
reef extending 3 miles off this point in a S. S. E. direction, with
21 fathoms between 3 and 4 miles S. W. of it, and 18 fathoms
the same distance west from the cape ; but the bay itself has not
* Freyc. Atlas, PI. 13.
AUSTRALIA, SOPTH COAST. 81
been sounded. It is between 7 and 8 miles across in the direc-
tion of S. E. S., where CAPE LANNES forms its south point, and
is fronted by a reef for about half a mile.
From CAPE DO.MBEY to RIVOLI BAY, the coast lies almost in and Coast to
,. _ , , the northward.
a direct line fc. 38 E. 8 or 9 leagues, and is very sandy and
sterile, with hummocks upon it that are visible at the distance of
4 leagues. On the south side of a peaked one close to the
beach, in lat. 37 19' S., breakers and some small rocks project
nearly a mile from the shore, with 16 fathoms a long mile from
them ; and there is a covered reef 5 or 6 miles farther to the
S. E., projecting from a patch of almost bare sand, with 12
fathoms, gravelly bottom, a mile to the S. W. of it. At 6
leagues in the offing, the Soundings are 35 fathoms, on a rocky Soundings.
bottom, and rapidly increase to 50 and 60 fathoms a little farther
out ; they become deeper at a less distance from the shore south-
ward of RIVOLI BAY, and 9 or 10 leagues S. W. \ S. from CAPE
LANNES, there is no bottom to be found at the depth of 200
fathoms. Near this spot Captain Flinders observed the Magnetic
Variation to be as follows, in 1802 : Variation.
" By morning's amplitude, ship's head S. E. by S 2 39' E.
Morning's azimuth, S. S. E 2 2
Evening's azimuth, N.E 2 2
" The mean, reduced to the meridian, will be 4 5' E. Nine
leagues to the north, and half the distance nearer to the land, an
amplitude had been taken with the ship's head in the meridian,
which gave 4 8' E."
An Island is said to have been seen in this neighbourhood, in Albion's
1802, by the ship Albion, or, according to other accounts, by the
Britannia : it is laid down in Captain Flinders' chart, in about
lat. 38 16' S., Ion. 139 41' E., or 15 leagues W. by S. J S. from
CAPE NORTHUMBERLAND. That officer, when near the spot,
having tried without success for soundings with 200 fathoms of
line, observes, " The latitude of the ship was 37 57' S., and lon-
gitude from six sets of distances of stars east and west of the
moon, 139 39', but by the time-keepers corrected, 139 45' E.
Not more than 7 or 8 leagues from this situation, there should
M
82 AUSTRALIA, SOUTH COAST.
lie an island according to the account given by Captain Turnbull
of the Britannia south whaler, who saw it in his passage out to'
PORT JACKSON. Having thick weather at the time, he was not
able to ascertain its latitude or longitude, otherwise than by the
log ; and as it was not in sight from our mast head, its position
must be considered as very uncertain."* It has since been
reported that this island does not exist in the position above
stated, nor does it appear to have been seen by any other ship
than the Albion ; but as there seems no reason to doubt its
existence, the uncertainty of its position, with the deep water
near it, render caution necessary in approaching this part of the
coast. M. Freycinet places the island, according to information
he has received, in lat. 38 40' S., and 1 30' west from CAPE
NORTHUMBERLAND, or in Ion. 139 5|' E.,t but expresses a doubt
as to its real position.
Hammant's HAMMET's or HAMMANT'S ISLAND, is a small piece of land,
concerning which various accounts have been rendered, and much
doubt entertained as to its actual existence. Mr. Horsburgh, in
his East India Directory,^ announces it as " a small island dis-
covered by Captain Hammant of the Endeavour, on the 6th of
July 1817, at 7 A.M., which he made in lat. 36 27' S., Ion.
127 2' E., and it appeared to be about 30 feet in height and 400
yards in circuit, with breakers bearing from it S. W. 3 miles,
another breaker N. W. by N. 6 miles, and a third breaker bearing
from it N. E. by E. about one mile. At 10 A.M. saw KANGAROO
ISLAND, distant about 7 leagues. " This position of the supposed
island being upwards of 150 leagues from KANGAROO ISLAND,
which is said to have been seen three hours afterwards, shows
this account to be very vague, and unworthy of confidence. In
the Admiralty chart it is laid down in lat. 38 32' S., Ion. 127 E.;
but this being close to the general track of ships bound to PORT
JACKSON from the westward, and no other ship having fallen
in with it, there are strong grounds for concluding that the
appearance observed from the Endeavour must have been a
deception.
* Flind. vol. i. p. 199. f Freyc. Atlas, PI. 10.
J Sup. p. 32, Ed. 1817. Aust. Atlas, PI. I.
AUSTRALIA, SOUTH COAST. 83
WEST CAPE BANKS is a sandy projection in 1 at. 37 53|' S., West Cape
Ion. 140 23|' E., according to Captain Flinders, and is rendered
remarkable by having a conspicuous white sand-hummock close
to its extremity. The land on its north side, extends N. N. W.
nearly in a straight line, for upwards of 5 leagues, and has the
same sandy sterile appearance as that to the northward of RIVOLI
BAY, but is somewhat higher : at 3 or 4 leagues inland is a ridge
of moderately high hills, which terminate to the southward in a
bluff that bears from the hillock on the cape N. E. | N. As far
as 10 miles northward from the cape, it is fronted by a reef o/and dangers
rocks, partly above water, which projects 1| mile from the shore
in some parts, and extends into a bight which is formed round the
cape's S. E. side ; two rocks, larger than the others, seem to
form its southern termination in this bight, but they should not be
approached nearer than a mile, as there is apparently deep water
close to the breakers by which they are extensively surrounded.
Abreast of this projection, at the distance of 4 miles, there are
24 fathoms on a rocky bottom, which quickly increase to 50
fathoms, grey sand, at 4 leagues off to the westward ; and beyond
that, the soundings are quickly lost.
A French chart, by M. Freycinet,* places a small reef o/near it.
covered rocks 7| miles W. by N. \ N. from this cape, with 22
fathoms water a mile from its S. E. side, and 36 fathoms 1| mile
from it to the southward ; but Captain Flinders passed over the
spot in the same month, without observing any danger, and
had 32 fathoms in the very centre of the supposed reef, with
soundings deepening gradually, but quickly, to seaward. The
Investigator's tracks having crossed each other several times
within a mile of the same situation, affords reason for con-
cluding that the supposed danger must have been a harmless
rippling of the water.
CAPE BOUFFLERS of the French bears S. 36 E. from WEST CnpeBoufflers.
CAPE HOWE, distant between 6 and 7 miles, and is the south
point of a bight in the coast, which is formed between them. In
the French chart, by M. Freycinet, the width of this bight is 3
* Freyc. Atlas, PI. 13.
84
AUSTRALIA, SOUTH COAST.
D'Estaing
Bay.
C. Northum-
berland.
leagues, and it is there called D'ESTAING BAY ; but, being nearly
filled with rocks and breakers, and quite open to the southward
and westward, it can never be used for anchorage. The sound-
ings are very irregular off this projection, and cannot be depended
upon for ascertaining the distance off shore in the night : the bank
does not appear to extend more than 4 leagues from the land ; and
at half that distance, are 40 and 50 fathoms on a bottom of sand
and shells. From this the depth quickly decreases to 25 fathoms, at
4 miles S. J W. from the cape ; and there is the same depth
at that distance to the westward of the rocks in D'ESTAING
BAY.
CAPE NORTHUMBERLAND is a cliffy projection in lat. about
38 2' S., Ion. 140 37' E., according to Captain Flinders, who
passed it under rather unfavourable circumstances, but observed
some dry rocks close to its south side, and high breakers
extending more than a mile from the shore to the eastward of
them. Two of these rocks are represented by that officer as
being sharp pointed, and resembling the back fin of a shark ; the
French named them the CARPENTERS, and observed breakers
fronting the shore to the extent of 1 J mile, nearly as far as CAPE
BOUFFLERS, and to twice that distance off the shore to the east-
ward of the cape, for nearly 4 leagues.* They place the cape
in lat. 38 OJ' S., Ion. 140 5 If E. from Greenwich; and 5 leagues
S. W. by W. \ W. from it, found no ground at the depth of 98
fathoms. The Investigator had 50 fathoms sand and shells, 3
leagues to the westward of the cape, and found the depth increase
to 70 fathoms fine sand, 7 or 8 miles farther to the S. S. E. ; but
from this it quickly shoals to the eastward, and is only 25 fathoms
broken shells, 7 miles from the cape to the S. E. by. S.
This prominent headland being about the northern limit of the
Current, and stream of current which is usually experienced running to the east-
CapeNorthum- ward > from CAPfiLEEUwiN through BASS' STRAIT, has much deeper
beriand. water along the shore to the southward and eastward of it, than
to the northward ; and the bank of soundings is contracted to a
smaller distance from the shore towards KING'S ISLAND in BASS'
Freyc. Atlas, PI. 13.
The Carpen-
ters.
; -
AUSTRALIA, SOUTH COAST. 85
STRAIT, than in the space round the GREAT AUSTRALIAN BIGHT
to the ARCHIPELAGO of the RECHERCHE. Therefore, in ap-
proaching any part of the South Coast outside of these limits,
during the night, soundings must not be expected many leagues
from the shore ; and in no part do they appear attainable at a
greater distance, than the land may be seen in the day-time.
An eddy current to the north has sometimes been experienced,
within 3 or 4 leagues of the land, between CAPE NORTHUMBER-
LAND and LACEPEDE BAY ; apparently occasioned by a current
which Captain Flinders found in the middle of April, setting
towards the cape from the W. S. W. at the rate of half a mile an
hour, and which then took nearly opposite directions to the north-
ward and S. E., parallel to the general trending of the coast.
The land hereabouts may easily be known by two remarkable
inland mountains near each other. MOUNT GAMBIER the Mount
northernmost, is peaked, and bears from CAPE NORTHUMBER-
LAND N. by E. | E. distant nearly 4 leagues ; the other, which
is of a flat table-like form, and named MOUNT SCHANCK, bears Mount
Schanck.
from the cape N. E. by N., and is distant from it 9 or 10 miles.
There are some hills of minor importance to the eastward of
them, upon a range of moderately high sandy land, which curves
round towards CAPE BRIDGEWATER.
On the east side of CAPE NORTHUMBERLAND, the shore trends A bi s ht a to the
eastward.
E. N. Eastward 5 or 6 miles, and then E. by S. and southward,
forming with CAPE BRIDGEWATER a large bight, 11 or 12 leagues
across, and quite open to the S. W. Its northern part is filled
with breakers, which extend 3 miles from the land, according to
M. Freycinet ; and at that distance to the southward of them
are 20 to 25 fathoms, deepening quickly to seaward. From 18
to 24 fathoms are found, on a coral bottom, 5 and 6 miles from
the shore of this bight, which is mostly rocky, and should be
avoided during southerly or westerly winds.
CAPE BRIDGEWATER is a bold cliffy projection that makes like Cape Bridge-
an island, being joined to the sandy land of the main by a low
and narrow isthmus. A hill near its S. Eastern extreme is in
lat. 38 21J' S., and Ion. nearly 141 19' E. ; it is visible 12
leagues from a ship's deck in clear weather, and slopes to the
86
AUSTRALIA, SOUTH COAST.
Variation.
Cape Nelson
When to be
avoided.
edge of the sandy-coloured cliffs by which the cape is begirt
towards the sea ; but on the land side it descends so low that its
connexion with the main cannot be discerned unless a ship is near
the shore. At the distance of 4 and 6 miles to the northward,
and nearly in a line with the first, are two other hills nearly equal
to it in elevation, rising from very "sandy land almost entirely
destitute of vegetation. There are 24 fathoms water 5 or 6 miles
to the westward of this cape ; but on its south side the soundings
are much deeper, being 43 fathoms at 4 or 5 miles off, and 71
fathoms 6 or 7 miles farther to the southward.
The Magnetic Variation to the S. Westward of the cape, in
1819, was 4 38' E. with the ship's head E. by S. \ S.
CAPE NELSON is a cliffy head similar to CAPE BRIDGEWATER,
from which it bears S. 73 J E. distant 8 miles, and forms with it
a large sandy bight quite open to the southward ; but it has no
hill upon it like that on CAPE BRIDGEWATER, the land which
forms it having rather a level appearance. The shore of the inter-
mediate bight is so barren as to have scarcely a sign of vegetation
upon it. This projection appears bold and safe to approach,
having, according to the French chart,* 76 fathoms water within
3 leagues to the S. S. W., and 58 fathoms within 2 leagues to the
S. W. of it. Captain Flinders passed 6 miles to the southward
of it in the Investigator, and could find no bottom at the depth of
35 fathoms.
Ships bound to the eastward should not approach this part of
the coast, on account of S. E. and easterly winds, which are often
experienced here for several days together, especialty in the
summer months, blowing along the direction of the coast, and
causing a lee current. The S. W. gales which are also fre-
quently encountered in this latitude, are likewise calculated to
cause a commander considerable anxiety, on a coast that is so
destitute of places of shelter from such winds, and so much
exposed to the fury of the boisterous Southern Ocean. The
directions given in page 3 must, therefore, be carefully attended
to, in sailing to the eastward, particularly during the prevalence
of S. W. or southerly winds, at which time a ship should not go
Freyc. Atlas, Pi. 13.
AUSTRALIA, SOUTH COAST. 87
to the northward of 40 S. after passing the meridian 135 E., Directions for
until KING'S ISLAND is approached within 40 leagues. Should E^stJaft
the wind incline to the northward, and circumstances appear from the west -
ward.
favourable for making the land before dark, the commander of
a ship bound through BASS' STRAIT, not being certain of his
reckoning within a few miles, would do well to sight the land of
the main in about 143 E., where some bold whitish cliffs project
considerably beyond the usual coast-line, and appear to have no
dangers near them beyond a mile and a half from the shore. On
Captain Flinders' chart * these cliffs lie about 25 leagues E. S. E. Cape Voiney.
from CAPE NELSON, and about 8 leagues W. N. from CAPE
OTWAY ; t but it is to be observed, that the French chart of
M. Freycinet makes the distance between these headlands about
4 miles less than the above, and places CAPE NELSON in lat.
38 27J' S., Ion. 141 42^' E. from Greenwich, whereas Flin-
ders makes it in lat. 38 24 J' S., Ion. 141 28' E. The latter
having passed this portion of the coast under very unfavourable
circumstances, remarks, with his usual candour, the diminished
confidence that is to be placed in his chart between CAPE NELSON
and CAPE OTWAY ; but in this space navigation appears to have
suffered very little from the circumstance, as the coast to the
eastward of PORTLAND BAY is delineated on the French chart of
M. Freycinet in nearly a straight line of rocky shore.
CAPE SIR WILLIAM GRANT lies 3 miles E. N. E. from CAPE cape sir w.
NELSON, and has a remarkably level summit of tolerable eleva- Gl
tion, which falls quickly to seaward, and forms a well-defined
point. An open sandy bight lies on the west side of this cape ;
and 2J miles to the E. by N. \ N. is LAWRENCE'S ISLE, a small Lawrence's
but conspicuous piece of land, with two hummocks upon it. A
small rock, with breakers about it, lies between LAWRENCE'S
ISLE and the cape, and renders the passage not safe to be
attempted, unless under favourable circumstances.
PORTLAND BAY, formed to the eastward of CAPE SIR WILLIAM Portland Bay.
GRANT, has an undetermined width of about 10 or 12 leagues
across in an easterly direction, towards a remarkable peaked hill
near the shore, and seems to be about 3 leagues in depth ; though
Aust, Atlas, PI. V. t See Account by H. M. S. Volage, p. 91.
88 AUSTRALIA, SOUTH COAST.
Portland Bay. nothing appears on record to show that it has ever been explored,
except by the French corvette Geographe, in 1802. That ship
stood across the entrance of a smaller bay in its N. Western part,
and found it about 8 miles wide, in an E. N. E. direction, with 18
fathoms a mile off its east point. By the same authority, the
western shore of this bay trends north 4 or 5 miles from CAPE
SIR WILLIAM GRANT, and then as much more E. N. E. before it
turns to the S. Eastward ; but according to Captain Flinders,
who passed in the Investigator 6 miles to the S. E. of LAWRENCE'S
ISLE in 30 fathoms water, the bay is not so deep in its N. Western
part as is here represented, but trends away to the N. E. at less
than 3 miles above the cape. This circumstance, and the uncer-
tainty which exists as to its actual delineation and the depth of
water it may contain for anchorage, should operate as a check
upon the views of any mariner who stands into it for shelter from
S. W. or westerly winds ; and, indeed, no part of this coast that
is not well defended from the west and south, should be relied
upon for anchorage, unless by a ship in a case of emergency.
PORTLAND BAY does not appear to have been entered, except
by the above ship, and by the small colonial vessels from our
Eastern Settlements, in search of seals, sea-elephants, &c. ; and
from these vessels no information has transpired respecting it:
the shores, however, appear to be rocky ; and to prevent being
embayed with a southerly wind, they had better be avoided by
a ship making a passage.
The Geographe found 26 fathoms, on a rocky bottom, 6 miles
southward of the peaked hill on the east side of the bay, and 39
fathoms at 4 leagues in the same direction ; but the soundings
quickly shoaled to 22 fathoms towards LADY JULIA PERCY'S
ISLE, and were then found very regular at that depth for 3 leagues,
until the island was approached within 2 miles.
Lady Julia LADY JULIA PERCY'S ISLE is a small cliffy piece of flat-topped
Percy's Isle. ] an( j near the m i^i e o f PORTLAND BAY ; from the shore of which
it is distant upwards of 4 miles, according to the French,* who
place it due east from LAWRENCE'S ISLE, distant 16 miles. Its
south side, being violently beaten by the turbulent Southern
Freyc. Atlas, PI. 13.
AUSTRALIA, SOUTH COAST.
Ocean, has rocks extending a little way off it, and from 21 to 24
fathoms water at the distance of nearly 3 miles. It is frequented
by sealing vessels from PORT JACKSON and VAN DIE-MEN'S LAND,
and probably affords them shelter in a small bay which is said to
lie round its north side. Captain Flinders passed this island
with very unfavourable weather, in April 1802, and placed it on
his chart 19 or 20 miles E. by S. \ S. from LAWRENCE'S ISLE, with
a smaller island about 6 miles to the E. N. E. of it, and 25 to
30 fathoms at 6 miles all round to seaward. The more recent
observations of Captain P. P. King, in the Mermaid, show this
position to be 5 miles too far to the southward, with reference to
the land about CAPES NELSON and BRIDGEWATER ; as will be seen
by the following remark: " This island is incorrectly laid down in
Captain Flinders' chart, owing to the very unfavourable weather
which he experienced in passing this part of the coast; we found
it to lie E. 3 S. 17 miles from LAWRENCE ISLAND: a second
island has a place in Captain Flinders' chart, but we saw nothing
of it. The coast also lies farther back in proportion to the error
of the island's position."*
CAPE OTWAY, the north point of the west entrance to BASS' Cape otway.
STRAIT, is a high bluff projection of reddish coloured cliffs,
having hills well clothed with verdure rising gradually above
them. The geographical position of this promontory has been so
variously reported by different navigators, that it may not be
entirely useless to give the following, as their several results ; in
order that a commander, in steering for it from the westward,
may not be deceived in the real situation of his ship.
By Captain Flinders, in the Inves-
tigator, in 1802 nearly lat. 38 51' S. Ion. 143 29' E.
M. Freycinet, in the GSographe,
in 1802 3856| 14339
Lieut. C.Jeffreys, in the Kangaroo 38 52 143 30
Capt. Hon. R. S. Dundas, in the
Volage, in 1826 3858 143 33
Mr. James Horsburgh, in his
India Directory, 1826 3853 14330
King, vol. i. pp. 341, 342.
N
90 AUSTRALIA, SOUTH COAST.
The former navigator did not approach this headland nearer
than 7 miles, and at that distance to the southward of it found
38 to 48 fathoms water, on a bottom of fine sand ; the depth varied
much between this and 50 fathoms, on an uneven bottom of sand
and small stones, as far as 5 leagues to the southward of
the cape, and from thence was upwards of 35 fathoms towards
KING'S ISLAND.
While passing this cape in H. M. Ship Volage, on the llth
Reef off Cape of October 1826, the sea was observed to break high upon a
Otwflv
rocky reef, which extends from it nearly 2 miles in a south
direction. This reef was also observed by Captain Lamb, in
the Baring, August 28, 1815, who considered its extent to be
1 1 mile from the pitch of the cape ; the sea broke high upon it,
but none of the rocks appeared above water.*
Coast to the The coast between PORTLAND BAY and CAPE OTWAY, which
comprises an extent of more than 20 leagues, was very indis-
tinctly seen by Flinders, to whose ship it was nearly proving
fatal, as a lee shore in a S. W. gale ;t but the French ship
* Horsburgh's India Director}', 1826, vol. ii. p. 565.
f After tacking from the shore about LAWRENCE'S ISLE, at the close of a squally
day, that intelligent officer observes, "During the night there were squalls of wind
with hail and rain, but tolerably moderate weather in the intervals. At daylight we
bore away for the land ; and at half past seven, the hill on CAPE BRIDGEWATLR.
bore N. 66 W., LAWRENCE'S double ISLE N. 53 W., and the west extreme of a
cliffy flat-topped isle N. 16 E. This last is LADY JULIA PERCY'S ISLE; and when
it bore N. 64 E. 5 miles, we steered eastward along the coast. At some distance
inland, to the northward of LADY PERCY'S ISLE, a round hill was distinguished ; but
the shore was scarcely perceptible through the squalls and haze : what little of it
could be seen, appeared to be sandy and of moderate elevation. At 11, the land
was perceived to the eastward, and we hauled up E. S. E. Our latitude at noon,
from an indifferent double altitude, was 38 33 j' S., and it is upon this uncertain
observation, that the correctness of the neighbouring lands in the chart principally
depend ; I do not, therefore, specify here either the latitudes or longitudes. The
coast was seen to leeward at times, and appeared to be moderately high ; we ran
along it at the distance of 5, and from that to 8 miles, clewing down the treble-
reefed topsails occasionally, and setting them after the squalls were passed. At
2 o'clock, the land appeared to be trending S. E., which obliged us to haul up to the
wind, and take in close reefs ; and the gale increasing, the fore and mi/en top-
sails were handed. It was seldom that the weather would allow of anything being
distinguished beyond two miles; and when the night came on, we were quite uncer-
tain of the trending of the coast. At 8 o'clock, by favour of moonlight and a
short cessation of rain, land was perceived on the lee beam ; it seemed to be a head
AUSTRALIA, SOUTH COAST. 91
G^ographe coasted it, at 1 to 5 miles distance, in the same
month, and found no dangers extending more than a mile from
the shore, except off the white cliffs mentioned at page 87,
which in the French chart are distinguished by the name of
CAPE VOLNEY. They are laid down by M. Freycinet, between Cape Volney,
16 and 17 miles N. 65 W. from CAPE OTWAY, with a reef
projecting from them to the southward for nearly 2 miles, and a
piece of land, like an island 7 or 8 miles in length, lying close
to the main, round their west side. This projecting headland
was also seen by Captain the Hon. R. S. Dundas, in H. M. Ship
Volage, on his voyage from CEYLON to PORT JACKSON, in October
1826, and is thus noticed: " The first land we made in the Volage,
was a high bold bluff about 16 miles west of CAPE OTWAY.
The line of coast between them appeared to be nearly E. S.
and W. N. (Magnetic), with the land high and bold, and
several white patches on it like sand near the shore."
On coming up with CAPE OTWAY a second time, Captain and the land
Flinders remarks, " On the west side of it the coast falls back
somewhat to the north, and projects again at the distance of 10
or 1 1 miles ; where it is not, as I think, more than 3 leagues to
the east of the headland seen under the lee at 8 in the evening
of the 20th. From CAPE OTWAY, eastward, the shore trends
E. N. E. about 3 leagues, to a projection called CAPE PATTON,
and, according to Captain Grant, a bay is formed between them ;
but at 3 leagues off, nothing worthy of being called a bay could
be perceived. Beyond CAPE PATTON, the coast took a more
of considerable elevation, and wasjudged to be from 3 to 6 miles off. The fore
and mizen topsails and reefed mainsail were immediately set, notwithstanding the
danger to the masts ; and there being much sea running, the ship was kept one
point from the wind, to make her go through the water. We had no chance of
clearing the land on the other tack ; and therefore our sole hope was, that the coast
might not trend any further to the southward. At 2 in the morning, the strength of
the gale obliged us to take in the fore and mizen topsails and mainsail ; and we
had soundings in 45 fathoms, small stones ; our anxiety was great until daylight,
when it was dissipated by not finding any land near us ; and in the course of the
morning the wind moderated, the barometer began to ascend, and the weather
became even fine. Our latitude at noon was 39 10' S., and longitude 144 22' E. ;
the latter being 22' more than given by the log. We were now entered into BASS'
STRAIT, and high land was visible astern, extending from about N. 50 to 17 W., at
the supposed distance of 12 or 15 leagues. Ftindert, vol. i. pp. 204, 205."
92 AUSTRALIA, SOUTH COAST.
northern direction, to a point with a flat-topped hill upon it : the
whole of this land is high, the elevation of the uppermost parts
being not less than 2000 feet. The rising hills were covered
with wood of a deep green foliage, and without any vacant
spaces of rock or sand ; so that I judged this part of the
coast to exceed in fertility all that had yet fallen under our
observation to the westward of it."*
Above a degree to the westward of CAPE OTWAY, there
are said to be soundings from 42 to 46 fathoms, on a bottom of
brown sand and shells.
Places of shel- Having now arrived at the west entrance to BASS' STRAIT,
Coast ^fJUs? ft may not be useless to acquaint the navigator who is bound
tralia, thence to the westward, with the places of shelter from contrary
winds, which are to be met with on the SOUTH COAST of
AUSTRALIA, and which are severally treated of in various parts
of the preceding pages of this work.
from western There appears to be no place of shelter from western gales,
between BASS' STRAIT and KANGAROO ISLAND ; but there are
then, besides various anchorages under that island, the bays
and coves at the entrance of SPENCER'S GULF; and further
to the westward, COFFIN'S BAY, PETREL BAY in the ISLAND
ST. FRANCIS, and FOWLER'S BAY near the head of the GREAT
BIGHT. Afterwards come GOOSE-ISLAND BAY, THISTLE'S
COVE, and the lee of OBSERVATORY ISLAND, all in the AR-
CHIPELAGO of the RECHERCHE : the cove cannot be entered
in a gale; but when once secured in the S. W. corner, a
ship will be safe : the other two places afford very indifferent
shelter from strong winds ; and are, indeed, with the excep-
tion of the first, scarcely fit for a temporary anchorage in
moderate weather. Anchorage and perfect shelter from all wes-
tern winds is also probably to be found in the sandy bight round
the north side of POINT MALCOLM, and in the bight to the east-
ward of LUCKY BAY ; though neither of these bays are known
* Flind. vol. i. pp. 209, 210.
AUSTRALIA, SOUTH COAST. 93
to have been entered by shipping, and the latter is both difficult
and dangerous of access. DOUBTFUL-ISLAND BAY, PORT of
Two PEOPLE, and KING GEORGE'S SOUND, afford complete
shelter against all western gales ; but some little time would be
lost in getting out of them, as well as out of the two bights last
mentioned, if a ship waited till the wind changed round to the
eastward.
Respecting places of shelter from eastern winds, the latter from eastern
seldom acquire sufficient strength and durability on this coast, wl
to oblige a ship to seek for such ; but in doing so under any of
the numerous headlands which afford it, care must be taken to
avoid anchoring too near the shore, or in any position from which
a ship could not readily be extricated on the appearance of a
change from the westward.
The marine barometer will be found a valuable companion on
this coast, as may be seen by reference to pages 3 and 4.
94
AUSTRALIA BASS' STRAIT.
On the WINDS, WEATHER, and CURRENTS, in BASS' STRAIT ;
with SAILING DIRECTIONS.
Winds and
Weather,
Bass' Strait. SINCE the discovery of BASS' STRAIT, by an enterprizing gen-
tleman of that name, in an open whale-boat from PORT JACKSON,
in 1798, it has been much used by ships navigating to and from
PORT JACKSON, and is found a very safe and much shorter route
than that round the south side of VAN DIEMEN'S LAND.
The WINDS and WEATHER experienced in this Strait are very
similar to those which are met with along the whole of the SOUTH
COAST of AUSTRALIA ; except towards its eastern part, where
they partake of the nature of those on the East Coast, and the
strongest gales blow frequently from the S. E. Captain Flinders,
who had much experience on the shores of this country, very
justly remarks, " Everything in BASS' STRAIT bespeaks the
strongest winds to come from the S. W. ; and there is reason
to believe that during nine months of the year, it generally
blows from some point in the western quarter. In. January,
February, and March, eastern winds with fine weather seem
to be not uncommon ; but there is no dependence to be had on
them at any other season. At the eastern side of the Strait
and of VAN DIEMEN'S LAND, it is not unusual to meet a N. E.
or north wind, though it seldom blows strong. The gales
usually come from between S. W. and S. E., and most frequently
from the latter direction ; which renders it hazardous to approach
the coast between CAPE HOWE and WILSON'S PROMONTORY.
Currents, Such an accumulation of water as is forced through BASS'
STRAIT, by the prevalence of westerly winds off the SOUTH
COAST of AUSTRALIA, would naturally lead to the expectation of
finding a strong CURRENT in the Strait, setting to the east ; but
on the contrary, the set in common cases was found to be rather
in the opposite direction, the current appearing to be predomi-
and Tides. nated by the Tides, whose superior strength forced it below the
surface. The flood comes from the eastward ; and after making
AUSTRALIA BASS' STRAIT. 95
high water at FDRNEADX'S ISLES, passes on to HUNTER'S and
KING'S ISLANDS, where it meets another flood from the south-
ward ; and the high water then made seems to be nearly at the
time that it is low water at FURNEAUX'S ISLES. Another flood is
then coming from the east, and so on; whence a ship going
eastward through the Strait, will have more tide meeting than
setting after her, and be commonly astern of her reckoning.
This applies more especially to the middle of the Strait, and is
what I there found with winds blowing across it; but the bight
on the north side, between CAPE OTWAY and WILSON'S PRO-
MONTORY, seems to be an exception, and, in fact, lies out of the
direct set of the tides, [n running from PORT PHILLIP to the
Promontory I was set S. 73 E. 35 miles in the day ; but it
then blew a gale from the west and S. Westward.
" Although the eastward ly current be not commonly found at
the surface in BASS' STRAIT, it is not lost. Navigators find it
running with considerable strength, when passing the Strait two
or three degrees to the east of FURNEAUX'S ISLANDS ; and it
was this current so found, which led Admiral Hunter to the first
opinion of the existence of an opening between NEW SOUTH
WALES and VAN DIEMEN'S LAND.
"BASS' STRAIT may be passed without more than common TO sail through
danger, at any time of the year, provided that the navigator be ^eastward .
certain of his latitude before approaching the longitude of 143^ E.;
he should not, however, enter the Strait in the night, unless he
have previously seen the land, or be certain both of latitude and
longitude. The parallel of 39, or 39 20' S., according as the
wind may incline, is the best for taking a ship between KING'S
ISLAND and CAPE OTWAY ; and a sight of either, or preferably
of both, will point out his position on the chart. The sole
danger to be apprehended here, is the HARBINGER'S REEFS, two
patches lying nearly two leagues out from the north end of KING'S
ISLAND ; but are so far separated from it, and from each other,
as to leave practicable passages between them, where the
shoalest water found by the Cumberland schooner was 9 fathoms.
" When the position of the ship at the entrance of the Strait
is ascertained, a course should be shaped for CURTIS' ISLAND,
which will be visible 10 or 11 leagues from the deck in fine
96 AUSTRALIA BASS' STRAIT.
weather ; and as the distance is between 40 and 50 leagues, and
nothing lies in the way, a part of it may be run in the night, with
a good look out. I would afterwards pass on the south side of
KENT'S GROUPS, at not a greater distance from the largest than
2 leagues ; and then steer E. N. E. by compass, if nearly before
the wind, or on either side of that course as the wind may incline ;
but taking care not to approach the northern LONG BEACH."
Since the year 1802, in which the above directions were given
by Captain Flinders, the channel to the southward of KENT'S
GROUPS has been found so strewed with dangerous rocks, which
are not always discernible in fine weather, that the route most
to be recommended, is that between KENT'S GROUPS and
WRIGHT'S ROCK, or between the former and HOGAN'S GROUP,
leaving SIR ROGER CURTIS'S ISLES to the northward, on account
of the CROCODILE ROCK, which lies between them and RODONDO.
Near WILSON'S PROMONTORY, the tide runs too strong to render
its neighbourhood desirable, without a commanding breeze ;
nor is a ship in its vicinity so well placed for meeting a probable
S. E. wind, after clearing this chain of islands, as by passing
through one of the channels farther to the southward.
Anchorin According to the experienced navigator above quoted, the most
places, with convenient places for anchoring in the Strait, with foul winds,
easterly winds.
when going eastward, are these :
1st. Under the N. W. end of KING'S ISLAND, where the
brig Harrington rode out the S. W. gale mentioned at page
90, the heavy sea being broken off by the NEW YEAR'S ISLES :
the shelter from eastern winds must certainly be much more
complete.
2d. PORT PHILLIP ; anchoring just within the entrance, on the
south side. When a fair wind comes, a ship can get out of the
Port by means of the strong tides.
3d. HUNTER'S ISLES, between THREE-HUMMOCK and BARREN
ISLANDS ; taking care not to anchor too near to the weather
shore, lest the wind change suddenly.
4th. The bight between WILSON'S PROMONTORY and CAPE
LIPTRAP, in case of necessity ; but I would not recommend
this place, it being very dangerous should the wind shift to
S. W.
AUSTRALIA BASS' STRAIT. 97
' 5th. KENT'S large GROUP, for brigs and lesser vessels ; in
one of the small sandy coves under the eastern island.
6th. FURNEAUX'S ISLES, between CLARKE'S and PRESERVA-
TION ISLANDS. If the ship be not able to weather CLARKE'S
ISLAND, and pass out to the S. Eastward when the wind comes
fair, she may run through ARMSTRONG'S CHANNEL, with a boat
ahead and a good look out.
This is all that it seems necessary to say for the information
of a commander desirous of going eastward through BASS'
STRAIT ; and with the chart in the Australian Atlas (Plate VI.)
it is all that a man of moderate experience and judgment will
desire. The entrance to the Strait, between KING'S ISLAND and Passage south-
HUNTER'S ISLES, has not been mentioned, thinking it not to be island.
reeommenciable, on account both of REID'S ROCKS, which lie in
the passage, and whose position is not well ascertained, and of
the more recent discovery of a detached rock 5 or 6 miles to the
southward of them, which was seen by Captain Bell in the
Minerva, in 1824, and bears hisname. But should a commander,
from choice or necessity, use the passage southward of KING'S
ISLAND, he will find the widest and clearest part to be between
the Island and REID'S ROCKS, where there is a channel 10 miles
across, free from dangers, with soundings of 35 to 40 fathoms
water, midway and near the rocks : the latter, although partly
above water, should not be approached in the night, as there is
deeper water near them than at 6 or 7 leagues to the westward
and S. W.
It has been observed that the winds are commonly favourable Tosail through
for making a passage to the westward, through BASS' STRAIT
and along the South Coast, in the months of January, February,
and March. To those who may be desirous of doing the
same, the following observations by Captain Flinders may be
acceptable :
" The first remark is, that the three months when this passage
is most easy to be made, are precisely those in which it is
unsafe, if not impracticable to go through TORRES' STRAIT ; and
the second, that it will generally be of no avail for a ship to be
in BASS' STRAIT before the middle of December, and if it be the
middle of January it will be preferable.
O
98 AUSTRALIA BASS' STRAIT.
" Ships coming from PORT JACKSON, or anywhere from the
N. Eastward, may take a departure from CAPE HOWE in lat
37 30i' S., and Ion. 150 5' E. ; but from thence, they should not
steer a course more westward than S. S. W. by compass, until
in latitude 39 30' S. ; on account of the danger to be apprehended
from S. E. winds upon the LONG BEACH. Having reached 39 30',
they should steer a true west course, or W. by S. by compass,
leaving the SISTERS, the CRAGGY ISLET, and WRIGHT'S ROCK,
on the larboard hand. The eastern island of KENT'S large
GROUP, which lies in 39 30' S., 147 19' E., and may be seen
10, or perhaps 12 leagues from the deck in fine weather, will
come in sight ahead ; and in passing 3 or 4 miles on the south
side, the small western group will be seen, and is to be passed
in the same way ; as are CURTIS' peaked ISLES, which will then
be in sight. From CURTIS' ISLES to the north end of KING'S
ISLAND, the course is nearly true west, and distance about 42
leagues, with nothing in the way ; but it is better to steer 5 or
6 leagues to the north of KING'S ISLAND, if the winds permit.
Should they hang to the westward of north, the course may be
safely directed for THREE-HUMMOCK ISLAND; passing afterwards
to the north or south of KING'S ISLAND, as the winds may be
most favourable," and looking out for three small islets, which are
said to have been seen by the French corvette Ge"ographe, in
lat. 39 53' S., about 13 leagues to the eastward of SEA-ELE-
PHANT BAY, but which there is every reason to believe do not
exist.
Anchoring " * n case ^ ^ ou ^ winds, which, if the weather be thick or
places with ra iny, may be expected to fix at S. W. and blow strong, there are
westerly winds.
many places where a ship may anchor, to wait a change ; but
the following appear to be the most convenient.
"1st. HAMILTON'S ROAD, at the east end of PRESERVATION
ISLAND.
" 2d. On the south side of the largest SWAN ISLE, for small
vessels, or under ISLE WATERHOUSE.
"3d. PORT DALRYMPLE.
" 4th. PORT SORELL, a more recent discovery.
" 5th. Various places amongst HUNTER'S ISLES.
" 6th. SEA-ELEPHANT BAY, on the east side of KING'S ISLAND,
AUSTRALIA -BASS' STRAIT. 99
where there is fresh water; or under the N. E. end of that
island, if the wind be from S. W.
"7th. WESTERN PORT, under PHILLIP ISLAND; anchoring so
soon as the ship is sheltered. A fair wind for going onward
through the Strait, will take a ship out of this Port.
" 8th. PORT PHILLIP."*
In addition to the foregoing directions, it is only necessary to
remark, that the very variable weather and sudden changes of
wind which are met with in these Straits, render caution neces-
sary both in taking up any anchorage that is not well sheltered,
and in quitting it so soon as the wind blows in from seaward ;
but in other respects, BASS' STRAIT may be used without more
than common risk, by the exercise of ordinary care and pru-
dence.
The Magnetic Variation through the Strait, will be found Variation,
generally about three quarters of a point Easterly, with a ship's
head north or south ; being between 7 and 8 degrees abreast of
KING'S ISLAND, and about a degree more amongst the islands in
its eastern part. It will, however, usually be less than this
when a ship's head is to the eastward, and more when it is in the
opposite direction ; especially near the east and N. E. sides of
KING'S ISLAND and CAPE OTWAY, where several navigators have
observed the variation to be only 4 E., and on one occasion even
less, with the ship's head N. E. by E. } E. Near the N. W.
cape of VAN DIEMEN'S LAND, it is about half a degree more
than off CAPE OTWAY ; and to the S. E. of CAPE HOWE, it is 2
degrees more than at KING'S ISLAND ; thereby requiring a some-
what greater quantity of easterly variation to be applied to the
course of a ship rounding CAPE HOWE from the S. W., than
was allowed on her course and bearings of the land, while
passing through the Strait to the eastward.
* Flind. vol. i. p. 243 to 250.
100 AUSTRALIA BASS' STRAIT.
DESCRIPTION of BASS' STRAIT, and the ISLANDS in it; willi
SAILING DIRECTIONS.
King's island, KING'S ISLAND, in the west entrance of BASS' STRAIT, was
discovered in 1798 by Mr. Reid, while on a sealing expedition
from PORT JACKSON, and has, since that period, been much fre-
quented by the Colonial vessels for similar purposes. It is
between 10 and 11 leagues in length north and south, according
north end. to Captain Flinders, and 4 or 5 leagues across, with a round
hill on its north point, that is visible 9 leagues from a ship's
deck in clear weather; the latitude of this hill is 39 37' S., and
its longitude 143 54' E.*
Soundings to Soundings in- 65 to 70 fathoms, sandy bottom, are said to lie
10 leagues to the westward of this port ; and Captain Harrison,
in the Dick, found the same depth 8 or 9 leagues farther to the
southward, on the same meridian ; the bottom being a collection
of shells, stones, and coral. These are a good guide for a ship
approaching the Strait in the night, or in thick weather, though
the depth is found quickly to decrease towards the island ; being
57 fathoms sand and coral, at 7 leagues off-shore, in lat. 3957'S.,
and 45 fathoms 8 miles farther to the eastward. At 4 leagues to
the westward of NEW YEAR'S ISLES, the Dick found 48 fathoms
on a bottom of fine shelly sand, and had from 46 to 55 fathoms,
gravel and shells, while passing 9 or 10 miles to the westward
of the HARBINGER'S REEFS.
West shore. The western shore of KING'S ISLAND is very rocky, and is
The French chart by M. Freycinet (Plate 11) places the north extremity of
KIXG'S ISLAND in lat. 3932|'S., and Ion. 141 42' E. from Greenwich; from whence
the island is made to extend in a south direction nearly 40 miles, with an average
width of about 6 leagues. It is to be observed, that these limits were ascertained
by circumnavigating the island in a boat, from the anchorage in SEA-ELEPHANT
BAY, and may therefore partake of the errors to which such examinations are
usually liable ; though Flinders lays down only the north part of the island from his
personal observation, and borrows the remainder from other authorities of an early
date. Lieut. C. Jeffreys, R. N. makes the N. W. point in 39 35' S., and 2 9* west
of WILSON'S PROMONTORY. Tn Mr. Horsburgh's E. I. Directory for 1826, it is
placed in 39 36' S., and 14355'E. ; and the island is stated to be 10 leagues in
length north and south, and 6 leagues wide.
AUSTRALIA BASS' STRAIT. 101
fronted by reefs to the extent of 3 miles, which make it dan- K " IS '* hland -
gerous to approach in the night, without fine weather. On the
N. W. side is a sandy bay about 6 miles in width, which affords
good anchorage and shelter from easterly winds, in 12 to 20
fathoms water : the NEW YEAR'S ISLES, two in number, with New Year's
some small rocks and breakers about them, front the bay in its to the east-
western part, and serve to break off the long swell which almost ward>
constantly rolls in upon this coast from the S. Westward. The
brig Harrington rode out a S. W. gale under their lee, in the
month of April 1802, and was effectually sheltered ; but during
westerly winds, the N. E. side of KING'S ISLAND offers much
better anchorage, in 10 and 12 fathoms sandy bottom, at 2 or 3
miles off the shore, with the round hill above-mentioned bearing
W. i N. There is said to be a passage nearly a mile wide, to
the southward of these islands ; but a ship making use of it,
must avoid a reef which surrounds the opposite point of KING'S
ISLAND, and extends from it to the westward upwards of a mile ;
as also another reef that extends more than half way over from
the southernmost island, and renders the passage tortuous. The
channel mostly used, is that round the north side of the islands,
where there is a clear space of more than 3 miles, and 23
fathoms water within half a mile of HARBINGER'S REEFS ; the
latter should, however, not be approached very close, as the Tide Tide.
runs strong near them and the N. W. part of KING'S ISLAND,
and in no certain direction. High water takes place in the bay
at 1 1 hours and 40 minutes, on full and change days, and the
tide rises 6 or 8 feet. The Magnetic Variation on shore, in Variation.
1802, was 7 50' E.
The Investigator anchored in 9 fathoms fine sand, under the N. E. part of
N. E. end of KING'S ISLAND, on the 23d of April 1802, with the K
nearest part of the shore distant a short half mile, and the
extremes bearing S. 37 E. and N. 69 W. Her commander ob-
serves, " The N. E. part of KING'S ISLAND extends S. E. by E.
3 or 4 leagues. The shore is mostly of sand, and behind the
beach it is washed or blown up in great ridges, but partly over-
spread with a kind of dog-grass which keeps the sand together.
In general the land is low, but some little eminences appear at a
distance ; and behind the front ridges of sand the surface is
Variation.
102 AUSTRALIA -BASS' STRAIT.
mg's s am . covere( j w |^ brush-wood, so thick as to be almost impenetrable.
Fresh water. A small lake of fresh water was found at a little distance behind
the sandy ridges in front of the shore. This was surrounded by a
good vegetable soil ; and the number of plants collected near it
was greater than had before been found upon any one island. The
small lake is too far from the sea-side for a ship to obtain water
from it conveniently ; but two little streams which drained from
the sand-hills, made it probable that fresh water might have been
obtained anywhere at this time,Jt>y digging. The water of these
rills was tinged red, similar to that obtained at KING GEORGE'S
SOUND, and to some pools I had before seen at FURNEAUX'S
ISLANDS ; and as the stone in these places is granite, and water
so discoloured was not found anywhere else, it seems very pro-
bable that the discolouring arises from the granite and granitic
sand.
" The Magnetic Variation, taken on the binnacle with the
ship's head at south, was 7 59' E. ; but 10 leagues to the east-
ward it was 11 52', with the head W. S. W., or 8 43' E. with
the head north and south. " In 1820, it was found to be 5 48' E.
at 8 miles N. Eastward of the HARBINGER'S REEFS, with the
Mermaid's head E. by S.
" The Tides set one mile and a half an hour past the ship,
N. W. by W. and S. E. by E., nearly as the coast lies ; that from
the eastward running nearly eight hours, and turning about two
hours after the moon had passed the meridian ; but which tide
was the flood, or what the rise, we did not remain long enough
to determine."*
HARBINGER'S REEFS lie about 3 miles W. by S. and 4| miles
N. N. W. from the north point of KING'S ISLAND, according to
Captain Flinders, with one or more passages between them, and
another between them and the island, in which the Cumberland
schooner found not less than 9 fathoms water. By the French
authority before quoted, these dangers extend as far as 5 miles to the
northward andN. W., and to the eastward as far as E.N. E. 7 miles
from the north point of the island; but Flinders having passed three
Tide.
Harbinger's
Reefs.
Flind. vol. i. pp. 207, 208. It has since been ascertained that, off the east shore
of KING'S ISLAND, the flood runs to the northward.
AUSTRALIA -BASS' STRAIT. 103
times over the latter spot in the Investigator, with 23 to 25 fathoms
water, and having had the same depth nearly a mile and a half
to the westward of the limit which is here set to the reef by the
French, it may be presumed their boat examination could not be
so correct as the more favourable view which was taken by the
English navigator. It will, nevertheless, be prudent not to
approach too near the eastern side of these reefs, as there may
possibly be some sunken rocks that were not seen from the In-
vestigator, and upon which there would not be so heavy a swell
as that which breaks upon the outer HARBINGERS. Soundings
in 8 and 9 fathoms have been found a long mile from the
Island's north point, and 18 fathoms 3 miles farther to the east-
ward ; but the bottom is irregular, and there is said to be a
narrow channel with more than 18 fathoms water between the
two inner reefs : the mark for it, is the north point of KING'S
ISLAND (bearing S. 70 E.) in a line with two small projections,
situated 1 1 and 3 1 miles to the eastward of it. These channels
are, however, only used by the small colonial vessels which fre-
quent the island for seals, and cannot be recommended in pre-
ference to the clear and spacious entrance of 14 leagues between
the HARBINGERS and CAPE OTWAY. where there are soundings
in 36 to 55 fathoms, on a bottom of sand and shells.*
The HARBINGER'S REEFS have been supposed by some navi-
gators to extend farther out from the land than is here repre-
sented ; and in 1818, the ship Isabella received material injury
by touching on their outer part, while on her voyage from
ENGLAND to PORT JACKSON ; but in the absence of further
information on the subject, it would be well for a ship entering Directions for
the Strait by this pass, to give the northern extremity of KING'S
ISLAND a berth of at least 3 leagues in the day-time ; and in the Reef,
night not to go to the southward of 39 20', especially if the
land has not previously been seen. There are 46 and 55 fathoms,
gravel and shells, about 10 miles to the westward of their
northern part.
SEA-ELEPHANT BAY, on the east side of KING'S ISLAND, Sea-elephant
Bay.
The tide also runs strong through the narrow channels among the HARBINGERS,
flowing from the eastward, and causing the surface of the water to be much agitated
with ripplings and eddies.
AUSTRALIA BASS' STRAIT.
King', hlan,/. extendg from ]at 390 49' to 390 54, g_ . an j j tg san( Jy beach, which
3/^" } e lies nearly in a line north and south, is in Ion. 144 5' E. accord-
ing to Captain Flinders, whose chart borrows all of KIND'S
ISLAND but its northern part, from other authorities. The
French ships under Captain Baudin, in 1803, made the beach
of this bay in Ion. 144 24 ' E. from Greenwich, and fixed the
breadth of that part of KING'S ISLAND which is abreast of it at
6 leagues. The bay is not more than a mile in depth, and
has 5 fathoms half a mile from all parts of its sandy beach, with
nearly the same depth between its north point and a small high
rock which lies a mile to the east of it. The name of SEA-
and Rock. ELEPHANT ROCK has been applied to this lump, and a reef
extends a long mile from it to the N. N. W. Within a few
hundred yards to the eastward of the rock, the colonial brig
Lady Nelson found 10 fathoms water; but the bottom is very
irregular, the depth having been found by the French to be
Overfalls. only 6 fathoms at nearly as many miles off, and from 16 to 31
fathoms at 5 leagues to the N. E. and eastward ; the quality of
the bottom, sand and shells, sometimes mixed with gravel.
Flinders places 16 and 19 fathoms within 4 miles of the rock in
the same directions ; but his track along this part was in the
night, and therefore not so much to be relied on as the
above observations by the French, which are the result of
several times passing and re-passing. There are 12 fathoms
abreast the middle of the bay, at 3 miles from the beach ; and
at twice that distance, the French ships found less than 7 fathoms,
with 26 about a mile farther to the S. E. These inequalities in
the ground are very perceptible in rough weather, by the agitation
of the sea above them, which during an easterly gale must almost
break : there is, however, no danger to be apprehended near them
in moderate weather ; and with the prospect of a fresh breeze from
the eastward , no ship should attempt to lie in SEA-ELEPHANT BAY.
High water takes place here at half past three o'clock on
Tide. full and change days, and the Tide is found to rise 12 feet;
flowing to the northward, at the rate of a mile and a half an
hour, and ebbing in the opposite direction with the same
Variation. velocity. The Magnetic Variation in 1802, was 8 54' E.
according to Lieutenant Murray, in the colonial brig Lady
AUSTRALIA BASS' STRAIT. 105
Nelson ; but by the French, who visited the island in the same ****** Islan(t '
year, it was found to be 4 2' E. on shore, and 4 9' E. on board.
This is not half so much as Captain Flinders found close to the
N. E. side of the island in the same year, but is 20' more than
his azimuths gave about a degree further to the northward, with
the Investigator's head N. E. by E. | E. The variation may
therefore be taken at about 7, or from that to 8 E. near KING'S
ISLAND, with a ship's head north or south ; observing that it will
be less with the head to the eastward, and more with the head
westward ; increasing, in all cases, towards the islands in the
eastern part of the Strait.
SEA-ELEPHANT BAY is much frequented by the colonists for Productions ;
the purpose of killing the animal whose name it bears, as well
as other animals, for the sake of their oil and skins ; but the
work of destruction has been carried on so extensively, that, of
late years, their numbers have most materially diminished ; and
from some of the islands in the Strait, both sea-elephants and
seals have entirely disappeared. The shores of this bay, never-
theless, afford abundance of firewood and good water, besides
ample shelter from western winds, on good holding ground. The
best anchorage to take up with those winds, is about a mile and Anchorage.
a half from the beach near the middle of the bay, in a line
between its south point and the SEA-ELEPHANT ROCK ; the depth
there will be 9 or 10 fathoms, on good holding ground of sand
and shells, and nothing in the way to prevent a ship getting to
sea immediately, on the appearance of a fresh breeze from
the eastward. In case of being obliged to use the channel channel
inshore of the rock, which should not be attempted unless from "
necessity, a ship must keep in mid-channel, steering N. N. W.
(by compass) until the two points of SEA-ELEPHANT BAY come
in a line with each other, and the rock is distant 2 miles to the
S. E. by S. ; a more easterly course may then be steered, taking
care to avoid a detached reef which was seen by the French, N. E. point of
lying as far as 3 miles to the eastward of the N. E. point of S R e ef n ff
KING'S ISLAND. This projection bears N. by W. | W. and is '*
distant 10 miles from the north point of SEA-ELEPHANT BAY,
with which it forms a bight about 2| miles in depth, containing
irregular soundings of 10 to 5 fathoms across its entrance, on a
P
106 AUSTRALIA BASS' STRAIT.
King's Island. clear g&ndy fottom. Between the reef which lies off it, and
another that projects from the land, there is a channel about a
mile wide, containing 5| fathoms water.
A caution to In addition to the foregoing remarks on this anchorage, it may
sian^." ^ e necessary to warn strangers, and particularly those in small
vessels, of this island being the reported resort of several run-
away convicts from PORT JACKSON and VAN DIEMEN'S LAND ;
many of whom are always to be found with sufficiently desperate
prospects to attempt anything for the recovery of their liberty,
or for the elusion of justice.
E. Coast. There exists some doubt as to the contour of the S. E. side of
KING'S ISLAND ; Flinders' chart places the trending of the shore
from SEA-ELEPHANT BAY, south for nearly 6 miles, into a small
bight containing 15 and 16 fathoms water, and shelter from N. W.
and S. W. winds. A reef with some uncovered rocks upon it,
extends to the eastward about a mile from the south point of this
bight, and would afford protection from the southerly swell, to a
small vessel at anchor in it ; but with SEA-ELEPHANT BAY at so
short a distance to the northward, no ship would prefer an
anchorage so much inferior. To the southward of this bight,
the shore is said to take a S. S. W. J W. direction for nearly 3
miles, to the S. E. extremity of the island, which also forms the
east point of entrance to the BAY of SEALS ; two small rocks lie
about half a mile from this projection, and have a passage inshore
of them.*
In M. Freycinet's chart (Plate 6 of his Atlas aux Terres Australes) the S. E.
shore of KING'S ISLAND trends S. by W. 4 W. clear of dangers for 6 miles, and then
in a line of small projections nearly S. W. f \V. for about the same number of
leagues, to the island's south point, which is placed in lat. 40 12$' S., Ion. 144 4j' E.
from Greenwich. Several dangers are laid down off this part, to the extent of 2
miles from the shore ; the most prominent of which are, a covered reef nearly 21
miles to the southward of the island's S. E. point: a small rock, with 14 fathoms
water close to it, 2 miles east from the island's south point ; and a cluster of rocks,
partly above water, lying 8 miles N. 50 E. from the last, and within a mile of the
shore. A small detached rock, with breakers extending a mile to the eastward from
it, is also laid down in the same chart, 5j leagues N. 88 E. from the south end of
KING'S ISLAND, and if it exists, must render this passage very dangerous, from the
uncertainty of its position. The French passed a mile and a half to the north, and
2 miles to the south and to the west of this supposed danger, but give no soundings
nearer than 30 fathoms at 8 miles to the eastward of it. Lieutenant P. P. King,
AUSTRALIA -BASS' STRAIT. 107
BAY of SEALS, on the S. E. side of KING'S ISLAND, is repre- King ' s Island '
sented in Flinders' chart,* as a sandy bight, nearly 3 leagues Bay of Seals,
across its entrance, in the direction of S. 65 W. from the island's
S. E. extremity, and nearly 3 miles deep in its N. Western
part; affording shelter, in 8 to 12 fathoms water, loose ground,
from all winds except those which blow from the eastward of
south and E. N. E. A dry rock and some breakers surround and rocks
the south point of this bay for upwards of half a mile ; and there
is a detached rock considerably above water, a mile and a quarter
N. E. | E. from the former, with a clear channel of 12 fathoms
between them ; there is also a clear channel, with 15 fathoms
water, between this detached rock and two others similar to it, m lt ;
which lie close to each other, 2| miles off to theN. E. byE. JE.,
and about a mile and a half from the nearest shore to the north-
ward. Depths of 18 and 20 fathoms are found at one and two
miles to the southward of these rocks, and no hidden dangers
are laid down in their vicinity ; but the shore abreast is fronted
by small rocks, and should not be approached close, on account
of the southerly swell which usually breaks heavy upon them,
and would place a ship in an unpleasant situation, should the
wind fail.
This bay was discovered by Lieutenant John Murray, in the
colonial brig Lady Nelson, 17th of January, 1802; and gave
him shelter for a night, in 8J fathoms, coarse sandy bottom, Anchorage ;
with its east point of entrance bearing E. N. E. (magnetic),
while returning to PORT JACKSON in H. M. surveying cutter Mermaid, from
the N. W. COAST of AUSTRALIA, on the 24th of July, 1818, passed 4 miles to the
southward of the position assigned to the rock, but did not see it ; and at noon,
when the latitude by three observers was 40 12' S., KING'S ISLAND bore from N. 204
to 17 W., and REID'S centre ROCK S. 52J W. distant 5 or 6 miles. There was a
considerable westerly swell at the time, which, while it may have occasioned a
slight error in the bearings here given, must have discovered the rock and reef,
had they existed in the situation pointed out, which at noon was only 4$ miles dis-
tant to the N. by W. f W. Several ships have occasionally used this passage, but
have seen no other dangers in it than REID'S ROCKS, and the breakers discovered
by Captain Bell in the Minerva, 5 or 6 miles to the southward of them ; this
must not, however, be considered conclusive that no other dangers do exist in this
channel, as it has not been sufficiently frequented to have brought us acquainted
with the actual state of its navigation.
Aust, Atlas, PI. VI.
106 AUSTRALIA BASS' STRAIT.
King's Mand. ^ reef Qff .^ ^ rQcky ^^ ^^ g by ^
of the bay west. That officer observes, " We sounded every
part of this place where a vessel would be likely to anchor,
and found from 14 to 7 fathoms, coarse sand of a loose nature."*
At this time, the beach and its immediate vicinity abounded
and produc- with seals, sea-elephants, badgers, kangaroos, and a variety of
animals which are useful to man, who has not failed to take
advantage of his own superiority, by prosecuting the work of
destruction among them, till a stranger feels disposed to enter-
tain a doubt as to why the place should have received the name
of the BAY of SEALS.
Seal Point ; The south point of KING'S ISLAND, which is known to the
enterprising colonists who frequent the neighbourhood, by the
name of SEAL POINT, lies in lat. 40 7J' S., Ion. 14352|'E.,
according to information collected by Flinders, who places a
small rock surrounded with breakers close to its extremity, and
makes the land on each side trend between 3 and 4 miles to
the E. by N. N., and 4 miles N. W. by W. By the French
chart, this projection of the island terminates more sharply in
40 12J' S., and 144 4|' E. from Greenwich, and has a covered
dangers near it; reef of small extent lying 10 miles from it to the N. W. 4 W.,
at nearly 3 miles from the nearest land. This danger is not
noticed by Flinders ; but the Ge"ographe's boat passed inshore of
it, while circumnavigating the island, as well as inshore of the
small rock that lies near the point, and which is placed by them
due east from it, at the distance of 2 miles. About 3 miles
and soundings g. Eastward of this rock, the G6ographe had 32 fathoms water,
iu the offing.
but could find no bottom at twice that depth, 9 leagues to the
westward of it. This position appears to be near the edge of
the bank of soundings which extend off the west side of the
island ; as the Mermaid had 52 fathoms, brown sand, coral,
shells, and weeds, at the distance of 7 leagues to the westward
* The anchor does not appear to have held well here ; for, the wind having
increased to a gale between W. N. W. and W. S. W., the brig drove at midnight,
and obliged them to drop a second anchor till daylight appeared ; when both
anchors were hove up, and Mr. Murray proceeded to ride out the gale in SEA-
ELEPHANT BAT, which he had discovered and entered a week before, and where
he found the holding ground very good. Lady Nelson's Log.
AUSTRALIA BASS' STRAIT. 109
of its south point ; and, in 1817, Captain Harrison, in the Dick,
had 70 fathoms on a bottom of shells, stones, and coral, about
10 miles farther in the offing, or in lat. 40 1' S., Ion. 143 13' E.
These soundings decrease rapidly for the first few leagues, as a
ship approaches the island, and afterwards become more regular
and even ; the brig Venus had 35 fathoms, 3 leagues S. West-
ward of SEAL POINT, and found the general depth between it and
REID'S ROCKS, to be from 35 to 40 fathoms. This part of KING'S General ap-
JSLAND is sufficiently elevated to be visible 10 leagues from a
ship's deck, in fine weather ; though the very south extreme is first seen.
low, and according to its relative position with the S. E. point of
the island, with REID'S ROCKS, and with the BLACK PYRAMID,
it appears to project somewhat farther than is represented in the
Australian Atlas. The land has a tolerably level aspect when
first seen from the westward ; but between the hill at its north
end, and the body of the island, it falls so much as to become
almost low. The western shore being exposed to the prevailing
winds, has a very barren and sterile appearance, which, together
with the rocks that lie off it, forbid the seaman to approach
within a necessary distance ; but on the opposite coast, although
in many parts sandy and unproductive, the land does not wear
so uninviting an aspect, but abounds with brush-wood and large
clumps of trees growing thickly together, and crowning the sum-
mits of the ridges.
Three small islets are laid down in the chart of M. Freycinet Three small
(Plate 6) in a doubtful position 13 leagues east from SEA-ELE- etstw^rd ^f
PHANT BAY, in lat. 39 53' S.; with 36 fathoms 6 miles to the
xJaj .
W. by N., and from that to 29 fathoms at nearly 4 leagues to the
S . Westward of them ; but several ships have passed near the
spot without having observed any indication of their existence,
nor has any knowledge of them been gained by the sealing
vessels which have frequented the Strait ever since its discovery,
in 1798.* Lieutenant P. P. King looked out for them, while
M. Freycinet, in the Nautical and Geographical account which he published,
to accompany his charts, observes, " The great space of sea which is to the east
of KING'S ISLAND, seemed to be sufficiently free from danger ; and with the excep-
tion of three small islets which have been discovered at 13 leagues from SEA-
ELEPHANT BAY, and in the same latitude, we have seen nothing as far as FUR-
NEAUX'S ISLANDS." Freycinet't Voy. aux Terr, Autt., p. 104.
110 AUSTRALIA BASS' STRAIT.
passing through the Strait in the Mermaid, November 1820, and
observes, " On the 27th at 8 A. M., we sounded in 48 fathoms ;
and at one o'clock the following morning, saw the BLACK
PYRAMID, and soon after entered BASS' STRAIT by the passage
on the south side of KING'S ISLAND. After running into the
latitude 1 of SEA-ELEPHANT BAY, on the east side of KING'S
ISLAND, in an unsuccessful search after some rocks laid down
in the French charts, but not noticed in those of Captain Flin-
ders, we bore up; at 11 P.M. passed SIR ROGER CURTIS' ISLAND,
and the next day cleared the Strait."* Another journal, kept
on board the same vessel, remarks, " The wind blowing fresh
from the W. N. W., carried us too far to leeward to see REID'S
ROCKS ; nor did we perceive the least appearance or indication
of the objects of our search, notwithstanding a good look-out
was kept from aloft, and was aided by a heavy swell rolling
into the Strait from the W. by S., which must have discovered
the dangers laid down in the French chart, had they existed in
the situation pointed out: we must, therefore, conclude, either
that they do not exist, or that they occupy very different posi-
tions from those which are assigned them."
Future navigators crossing this track under favourable cir-
cumstances, would do well to set the point at rest; and by
ascertaining the existence, or otherwise, of a supposed danger
that lies so much in the way, confer a lasting benefit on navi-
gation and commerce.
Reid's Rocks. REID'S ROCKS lie in the middle of the channel between the
south part of KING'S ISLAND and the nearest of HUNTER'S ISLES,
and, from not being perfectly known, cause this channel to be
very little used by ships navigating through BASS' STRAIT, who,
in general, prefer the passage between KING'S ISLAND and
CAPE OTWAY, as being wider and more clear of dangers. Ac-
cording to the information collected by Captain Flinders, he
places the centre cluster of rocks 5 leagues S. E. by E. E.
from SEAL POINT, or in lat. 40 15' S., Ion. nearly 144 10' E. ;
from which they appear to extend N. by W. W., and S. by
E. I E., about 2| miles each way, with a breadth of more than
* King, vol. i. pp. 440, 447.
AUSTRALIA BASS' STRAIT. Ill
a mile and a half. The brig Venus had soundings in 36 fathoms, Reid's Rocks,
a long mile from their north side, and from 35 to 40 fathoms
between 6 miles and as many leagues to the westward of them ;
which shows that the lead is no certain guide for approaching
these dangers in the night, or in thick weather ; and that they
should be avoided at such times, unless a ship's position has
previously been well ascertained by a sight of the land on either
side.
The Mermaid entered this channel from the westward, in July
1818, and passed 2 or 3 miles to the northward of REID'S ROCKS,
but with the weather too unfavourable to admit of any particular
observations being made upon them, except that they appeared
to be correctly placed by Flinders. Near the middle of them is
a patch of bare rocks, elevated several feet above the water, and
having the appearance of a small low islet. At 2 miles from the
breakers which extend to the northward, the Mermaid had 33
fathoms water, on a bottom of shells, coloured stones, fine sand,
and sea-weed.*
The situation of REID'S centre ROCK, in M. Freycinet's chart,
is 7 leagues S. E. from SEAL POINT, and the same distance
S. 82 W. from ALBATROS' ISLAND. The Geographe is repre-
* Lieut. Murray having been despatched from PORT JACKSON by the Governor of
New South Wales, to survey KING'S ISLAND, in the colonial brig Lady Nelson, was
unexpectedly drifted close to these rocks in the night, while lying to with the brig's
head to the eastward. The following extract from that officer's log-book, appears
to have partly guided Captain Flinders in determining the extent of these dangers on
his chart, though an alteration is very properly made in Mr. Murray's estimated dis-
tance off the land : " At 8 P. M. 24th of January 1802, saw the N. W. point of the
BAY of SEALS, bearing N. by W. distant 5 miles, and the two SEAL ROCKS N. by E.
6 miles ; tacked and stood off to the S. Eastward till midnight. Having by that time
run 10 miles, we then tacked and stood in, and at 2 A. M. found the vessel close to
breakers and a strong ripple of a current, with a confused jump of a sea ; tacked and
stood off till day-light; (wind N.E.by E.) no land in sight, or breakers; but by
6 A. M. we saw the distant looming of KING'S ISLAND bearing N. W., and perceived
that all round us at different distances, lay rocks and dangerous breakers : one (a
large rock) bore S. W. 3 miles, another S. S. W. 3i miles, another south 4 miles,
and one west 5 miles ; the whole being about T or 8 miles from the S. W. point of
KING'S ISLAND. At 8 A. M. made sail to the N. E. from them. Noon, strong winds
at south, and the weather thick and hazy. Sounded every half-hour, and found the
ground foul till we left these breakers about 7 miles, and then it got to the usual
ground and depth, 25 to 32 fathoms." Lady Nelson's Log.
112 AUSTRALIA BASS' STRAIT.
sented to have passed 2 miles from its south side, without
observing any breakers about it ; by which we may conclude,
that the circumstances under which it was seen from that ship
were very unfavourable.
Bell's Rock. BELL'S ROCK, in the west entrance to BASS' STRAIT, lies much
in the way of ships using the passage to the southward of KING'S
ISLAND, though there appears to be water enough over it to
prevent its being considered very dangerous. The breakers
upon it were discovered from the ship Minerva, on the 14th of
November, 1824 ; and when REID'S ROCKS bore north (mag.)
6 miles, and the BLACK PYRAMID E. S. E. (mag.), the danger
was about half a mile off, to the southward. As the water broke
only at intervals of 3 or 4 minutes, although the swell was very
heavy, Captain Bell considered there might be sufficient depth
of water to carry a ship over it. An indifferent observation made
the latitude of the ship at the time 40 26' S.
The Investigator passed about 3 miles to the southward of this
danger, in the night of May 30th 1802, with 28 fathoms red
coral and sand, and had 33 fathoms coarse grey sand, nearly twice
that distance to the S. E. of it ; but Captain Flinders observed
no danger near his track, and ascertained his latitude by a meri-
dian altitude of the moon, a few miles to the westward.*
The Bathurst must have passed 2 miles to the southward of
the situation assigned to this rock, during the night of April 14,
1822, but observed no appearance of shoal water ; and half an
hour afterwards, steering E. N. E. by compass, the BLACK PYRA-
MID was seen to the S. E. \ E. (mag.) at the distance of 7 miles.
The weather being squally from the westward, with rain, the
estimated distance from the island might not be quite correct ;
but in less than an hour, it was again set at S. S. E. (mag.) 6
Should the BLACK PYRAMID be found to lie 4 miles more to the northward than
is laid down by Flinders, or in lat. 40 28', instead of 40 32' S., the Investigator's
track would also partake of a similar error, and the ship would have passed one mile
north, instead of 3 miles south, of BELL'S ROCK, at the time of sounding in 28
fathoms, red coral and sand ; for although the latitude was ascertained by a meridian
altitude of the moon only 3 miles to the westward of this meridian, the ship's track
in a great measure depends upon KING'S ISLAND having been seen before dark,
between N. 12| and 42" E., and the PYRAMID at the same time bearing S. 71 E.
AUSTRALIA BASS' STRAIT. 113
miles distant, and daylight presented THREE-HUMMOCK ISLAND BeWs Rwk '
to view, on the same bearing.
The Success, Captain James Stirling, while entering BASS'
STRAIT by this passage, on the 22d of November, 1826, passed
within 2 miles of the north side of BELL'S ROCK, in soundings of
32 to 35 fathoms, coarse sand and shells, without seeing it ; and
soon afterwards decreased the depth to 25 fathoms on a coral
bottom, when in a line between the southern part of REID'S
ROCKS and the BLACK PYRAMID, at one-third across from the
former. The water deepened to 32 fathoms rocks, 7 or 8 miles
farther to the eastward, when ALBATROSS ISLAND bore E. by S.
(mag.), and the BLACK PYRAMID S. by W. (mag.) The exist-
ence of BELL'S ROCK not being known to Captain Stirling at
this time, a particular look-out was not kept for it; and the
weather being very fine, with a light breeze from the northward,
it is probable the sea would not break over it.
The circumstance of this danger not having been perceived by
the above-mentioned vessels, nor by many others which have
occasionally passed to the south of KING'S ISLAND, must by no
means be considered as a proof that it does not exist ; for the
situation in which it is said to have been seen, being nearly in a
line between SEAL POINT, REID'S ROCKS, the BLACK PYRAMID,
and the X. W. part of VAN DIEMEN'S LAND, is a very likely place
in which to find more reefs than are already known, and should
operate as an additional inducement for a commander to pass
northward of REID'S ROCKS; or, when it can be done without
inconvenience and loss of time, to use the channel between KING'S
ISLAND and CAPE OTWAY, in preference to any other.
HUNTER'S ISLES, in the western part of BASS' STRAIT, consist Hunter's isles.
of three principal islands lying off the N. W. extremity of VAN
DIEMEN'S LAND, with several smaller, but equally conspicuous
islands extending from them as far as 6 leagues to the westward.
The most prominent of these, and that which will be seen first
by a ship approaching the cluster from the westward, is the BLACK Black Pyra-
PYRAMID, a small high island of dark appearance, and with a mid '
round summit. According to the observations of Captain Flin-
ders, in the Norfolk sloop, it lies in lat. 40 32' S., Ion. about
144 21 f E. ; but Captain King found this position of it 4 miles
Q
1 14 AUSTRALIA BASS' STKAIT.
'*' too far to the southward, and is borne out in this correction by
observations made on board the Minerva, in 1824f which show
that the BLACK PYRAMID bore E. S. E. (mag.} when REID'S
ROCKS were distant 6 miles to the north.* This island appears
bold to approach, and from 3 to 7 or 8 leagues to the S. W. of
it, are regular soundings in 48 to 50 fathoms, on a bottom of
sand, shells, and stones. No dangers are known to exist in its
vicinity nearer than BELL'S ROCK, which is situated 11 or 12 miles
to the N. W. by W. \ W., and REID'S ROCKS, lying somewhat
farther off in the direction of N. W. | N.
Albatross ALBATROSS ISLAND, the northernmost of HUNTER'S ISLES/ is
placed by Captain Flinders in lat. 40 25' S., Ion. 144 40|' E.,
and is sufficiently high to be seen 5 or 6 leagues from a ship's
deck in clear weather. Its shores are mostly steep cliffs, rocky
and straggling at the extremities, with breakers lying a little way
out from them. On the north side, the island is said to be very
bold, and safe to approach within a stone's throw ; some sunken
reported dan- rocks, however, having been reported to exist about it, without
any positions being assigned to them, it will be prudent not to
approach nearer than a requisite distance. On the discovery of
this mass of rock by Captain Flinders, in 1798, he remarks, that
" it is near 2 miles in length N. E. and S. W., and lies 6 miles
W. \ N. from the north point of BARREN ISLAND ; appearing
almost white with birds. "t
* In the French chart of BASS' STRAIT, this portion of HUNTER'S GROUP differs
considerably from that of Flinders, and leaves some doubt as to the relative identity
of the islands. The French navigators, from having sailed amongst them, are entitled
to more credit in this part than Flinders, who only skirted them in a small sloop,
possessing very inadequate means of attaining hydrographical accuracy. They place
the BLACK PYRAMID in lat. 4030'S., and 30' east from the south point of KING'S
ISLAND, or in Ion. by Flinders, 144 22' E. At the distance of 8 miles to the W. by
N. | N. of this island, their chart places another of the same size, to the southward
of which the Geographe is represented to have passed, at the distance of nearly 3
miles ; but from the tracks of several ships in this part, it is satisfactorily ascertained
that no island exists in the situation pointed out, which is about 3 miles to the
S. Eastward of the position assigned to BELL'S ROCK, on which are at least 4 or 5
fathoms water. The only remaining conclusion therefore is, that this island is
intended for the uncovered part of REID'S ROCKS, which, on Flinders' chart, would
lie about 3 leagues more to the northward.
f ALBATROSS ISLAND so much excited the curiosity of our navigators, and their
AUSTRALIA BASS' STRAIT. 115
The French schooner Casuarina, commanded by M. Freycinet, Hunter's hks .
having sailed much amongst the islands of this group, in Decem- Albatross is-
land ; by the
ber 1802, and passed close to ALBATROSS ISLAND, made it in lat. French.
40 24' S., and 24|' east from the rock in SEA-ELEPHANT BAY,
or in Ion. 144 52' E. from Greenwich. In Flinders' chart* the
difference between these 2 meridians is 32' ; " but," observes
Captain King, in his valuable Sailing Directions, " as Captain
Flinders only saw the north end of KING'S ISLAND, the error
seems to originate in his having laid down its eastern side from
other authorities, for his difference of longitude between its N. W.
point and the centre of ALBATROSS ISLAND, only differs 2' 30"
from the French, who surveyed that island with great care."t
Therefore, by taking 144 43' for the longitude of ALBATROSS
ISLAND, it will probably be found not veiy far from the truth.
hope of obtaining a supply of food, "that," Captain Flinders adds, "Mr. Bass went
on shore in the boat whilst I stood off and on, waiting his return. On his rejoining
us with a boat load of seals and albatrosses, we found he had been obliged to fight
his way up the cliffs of the island with the seals, and when arrived at the top, to
make a road with his clubs amongst the albatrosses. These birds were sitting upon
their nests, and almost covered the surface of the ground, nor did they any other-
wise derange themselves for the new visitors, than to peck at their legs as they
passed by. This species of the albatross is white on the neck and breast, partly
brown on the back and wings, and its size is less than many others met with at sea,
particularly in the high southern latitudes. The seals were of the usual size, and
bore a reddish fur, much inferior in quality to that of the seals at FURNEAUX'S
ISLANDS.
" The Tide (apparently the ebb) had set so strong to the S. Westward, that not-
withstanding our efforts to keep up with the island, it was distant 5 miles when
Mr. Bass returned, and the boat was hoisted in. A black lump of rock was then
seen 3 or 4 leagues to the S. Westward, and the following bearings were taken
just before making sail: ALBATROSS ISLAND N. 75 to 86 E., STEEP-HEAD ISLAND
S. 31 E., and the black pyramidal rock S. .59 W. We kept close to the wind
at N. E., in order to fetch STEEP-HEAD ISLAND, but were carried too far to leeward
by the tide, and eventually passed at less than a mile from the west side of a high
black rock which lies a league to the westward of it, and has some breakers
lying upwards of a mile off its S. W. side.
" Besides these islands and rocks, we passed another cliffy island 4 or 5 miles
to the south of STEEP-HEAD, and to which I gave the name of TREFOIL ISLAND,
its form appearing to be nearly that of a clover leaf; there were, also, several
others of less importance, mostly lying near BARREN ISLAND ; the steep south end
of which was set over the north end of TREFOIL, at (mag.) N. 65 E." Introduction,
to Flinders, pp. 172, 173."
* Au.st. Atlas, PI. VI. t King, vol. ii. p. 383.
116 AUSTRALIA -BASS' STRAIT.
Hunter's Isles. Mf Horsburgllj in his East India Director/for 1827, states it to
be in Ion. 144 35' E., and lat. 40 25' S.
Soundings off The soundings are no indication of a ship's approach to this
Albatross is- island . the French having found 35 f at homs, on a bottom of
gravel and coral, at the distance of half a mile from its south and
east sides, and 31 fathoms on the same kind of coarse ground,
2 miles off to the N. W. These depths correspond so nearly
with what will be found towards KING'S ISLAND, and for several
leagues to the westward, that, in the night or in thick weather,
it ought to be approached with caution. When viewed from the
S. W. by W., or N. E. by E., a deep notch in the middle of the
island appears to divide it.
Steep-head , STEEP-HEAD ISLAND, another of HUNTER'S ISLES, is placed by
Flinders 1 1 miles S. 4 E. from ALBATROSS ISLAND, but by the
French nearly 10 miles S. W. from it. The diameter is not
more than a mile, but the island is high, and, as its name implies,
has a margin of steep cliffs.* There is a space of nearly 3 miles
and passage to between it and BARREN ISLAND to the eastward, though it is so
much occupied by small but conspicuous rocks, that only a mile
and a quarter of its eastern part can safely be used by ships.
Here the Casuarina found 11 and 12 fathoms water, on a coral
bottom, and 7 fathoms within half a mile of the island's north
point ; from which breakers were observed to project a little way
to the northward. The same vessel also passed close to the
southward of a small patch of shoal water , distant If mile
N. E. by E. | E. from the nearest part of STEEP-HEAD ISLAND,
and about a mile from the shore of BARREN ISLAND to the
eastward.
Long Island. Four or five miles to the S. E. of this rocky lump, lies LONG
ISLAND, which occupies a greater extent N. W. and S. E., but
is neither so wide nor so high as the former. Six fathoms are
found a mile to the eastward of it, and from that to 9 fathoms
* In the French chart, a high lump of land, smaller than STEEP-HEAD ISLAND,
and of nearly circular form, is laid down 3 miles W. f N. from it, with the Casua-
rina's track lying between them. As this island has no place in the chart of Flin-
ders, and that navigator makes STEEP-HEAD ISLAND much larger than the French,
who passed close to it, there is reason to conclude he was mistaken in supposing it
one land, and that these islands will be found as delineated by the French,
AUSTRALIA BASS' STRAIT. 117
on the east side of some small rocks which extend in a line
between it and CAPE GRIM. From the middle of this rocky
cluster, a shoal extends to the eastward, and is supposed to join
another shoal which surrounds CAPE BUACHE.
TREFOIL ISLAND, another of the same group, is placed by Trefoil island;
Flinders 3^ miles S.f E, from STEEP-HEAD ISLAND, and 2
miles W. N. from the north extremity of CAPE GRIM. It is
cliffy, like the other small islands to the northward, and received
this name from its form appearing to be nearly that of a clover
leaf.
A covered reef was seen by the French, If mile N. W. | N. and dangers
from this island's N. W. point, and somewhat more to the S. W. m
of LONG ISLAND ; and another covered reef is laid down in their
chart, a long mile to the southward of STEEP-HEAD ISLAND:
neither of them were seen by Flinders in the Norfolk sloop, nor
have they been approached near enough to be laid down with
sufficient precision, to induce a ship to approach their neighbour-
hood. Indeed, no commander should, from choice, attempt to
pass amongst these small islands, until they are better known ;
as they have been very imperfectly explored, and the tide to the
westward of them runs at the rate of 2 miles an hour, flowing
to the N. E.
BARREN ISLAND, one of the largest of HUNTER'S ISLES, lies to Barren island :
the eastward of those already enumerated, and, as its name im-
plies, cannot boast of possessing a very verdant appearance. It
is of moderate height ; and from its sloping north point, which
Flinders made in lat. 40 26' S., Ion. 144 50' E., or 6 miles E. \ S.
from ALBATROSS ISLAND, it extends about 4 leagues in the direc-
tion of S. f W., but is not more than as many miles across.
Its northern part exhibits a striking picture of sterility and deso-
lation ; but the southern coasts are wooded, and are formed by
hills of moderate elevation.
The French have attached the name of CAPE KERAUDREN toe. Keraudren;
the north point of this island, which is low and rocky, and placed
by them in lat. 40 25|' S., and Ion. 144 58J' E. from Green-
wich ; or E. by S. \ S. from ALBATROSS ISLAND, distant 5 miles.
On its west side is a large bight, which they called CUVIER Cuvier Baj ;
BAY. M. Freycinet says, " It is 2 leagues wide, entirely exposed
1 18 AUSTRALIA - BASS' STRAIT
- to westerly winds, and is lined by reefs. This bay would not
Barren Island: afford very commodious anchorage ; however, the ground is clean,
the bottom being everywhere sand, and the depth variable
between 8 and 12 fathoms : the coast is steep, and may be ap-
proached close, but we observed rocks detached from the shore
at different distances, and sandy bays of various sizes. To the
A shoal off c. W. N. W. of CAPE KERAUDREN is an extensive bank of sand,
en ' on which the sea breaks violently. There is, however, a good
passage between the land and this shoal, which appears to have
N. w. point; at least 4 fathoms water over it.* The N. W. point of the
Island is surrounded by rocks and breakers, which extend con-
siderably to seaward ; its approach ought to be avoided as very
dangerous. To the southward of this is a pretty sandy bay ;
beyond which, towards the south point of the island, the reefs
are not very extensive."t This extremity of BARREN ISLAND is
South point; steep, and about a mile to the eastward of it lies a small rocky
island, destitute of vegetation, and nearly surrounded with rocks,
which project from its east and west extremes for about a quarter
of a mile ; 22 fathoms, gravelly bottom, are found at that dis-
tance from its south side, and 18 fathoms a mile and a half in the
same direction ; but the depth quickly decreases to the S. E. of
this, towards a shoal which is said to front the shore of the
main, to the extent of 3 or 4 miles.
Anchorage off The east side of BARREN ISLAND lies in a line nearly north
the east side ; an( j sou th } i \ m iles, according to the French, and has several
small sandy beaches between its slight projections ; off which
good anchorage is to be found in various depths below 20
fathoms, and perfect shelter from all winds. A ship at anchor
here, would be defended to the west by BARREN ISLAND ; to the
This reef did not escape the observation of Captain Flinders, who says, " So
soon as we had passed the north sloping point of BARREN* ISLAND, a long swell was
perceived to come from the S. W., such as we had not been accustomed to for some
time. It broke heavily upon a small reef, lying a mile and a half from the point,
and upon all the western shores ; but, although it was likely to prove troublesome,
and perhaps dangerous, Mr. Bass and myself hailed it with joy and mutual con-
gratulation, as announcing the completion of our long-wished-for discovery of a pas-
sage into the Southern Indian Ocean." Introduction to Flinders, p. 171.
t Freyc. pp. 77, 78.
AUSTRALIA- BASS' STRAIT. 119
N. E. by THREE-HUMMOCK ISLAND ; and to the S. E. and south- Hunter ' s Is!e *'
ward by an extensive sandy island, and the shore of VAN DIE- Barren island:
MEN'S LAND. The best anchorage for large ships is said to be in
7 fathoms water, with BARREN ISLAND bearing from N. W. by N.
to S. by W. (mag.} distant nearly 2 miles, and the S. W. point
of THREE-HUMMOCK ISLAND N. by W. | W., about the same
distance. The approach to this anchorage, between the above Approach to it
islands, is said to be safe under the guidance of the lead ; avoid-
ing a small sunken rock that lies off the N. W. side of the latter,
and which has deep water close to it. The passage from the east- from the east ;
ward is also clear of dangers, by keeping THREE-HUMMOCK
ISLAND aboard, and not approaching within 2 miles of the three
small islands which lie contiguous to CAPE BUACHE. A channel
to the S. Westward also, may probably be found to exist between and from the
CAPE GRIM and BARREN ISLAND, by coasting along the east ' U '
shore of the latter, and passing between the two small islands
which are situated off its S. E. extremity ; but this passage appears
never to have been explored, nor should it be attempted, without
previous examination, on account of the shoals which exist on
its east and south sides. One of these small islands is placed
by the French nearly 2| miles N. E. by E. \ E. from the south
point of BARREN ISLAND, with shoals lying off its north and N. E.
sides to the extent of 2 miles ; it must, therefore, be avoided in
taking up any anchorage in its vicinity, as 7 fathoms are found
close to 2 on the verge of the banks, and their extent towards
BARREN ISLAND has not been ascertained.
THREE-HUMMOCK ISLAND, the N. Easternmost and most re- Three-hum-
markable of HUNTER'S ISLES, lies on the east side of BARREN mock Island
ISLAND, from which it is separated by a space of about 2 miles,
which the French have named PERON'S CHANNEL. The island
lies in a N. E. and S. W. direction, is about 8 miles in length,
and 4 or 5 miles wide. On its S. E. side are situated the three
hills from which its name is derived, and which rise gradually
from moderately elevated land, in some places bare of vegetation.
The northernmost is also the highest, according to the French,
and may be seen at the distance of 8 leagues from a ship's
deck in clear weather ; it bears E. \ S. distant 7 miles from the
north end of BARREN ISLAND, and in a small sandy bight at its
Three-hum-
mock Island
East side :
120 AUSTRALIA- BASS' STRAIT.
Hunter's Met. eagtem foot> the s i oop Norfolk anchored in 3| fathoms water,
on discovering these islands in 1798.*
Other little sandy bights lie to the southward of this, and have
8 and 9 fathoms water a long mile off the shore abreast of them ;
but rocks and breakers project a little way from their separating
points, and there is probably foul ground in their immediate
vicinity : 7 fathoms will be found within a quarter of a mile of the
island's S. E. point, and 14 fathoms 1| mile to the southward
of it. Near the south point of the island, which has a small
rock lying close to it, and a sandy beach on each side, is situated
the southernmost of the three hummocks, from which the island
received its name ; it is a conical hill, and received the name of
the SUGAR-LOAF from Captain Flinders, who says it is the highest
part of the island, and is visible 8 leagues from a ship's deck in
clear weather. The depth of water to the southward of it is very
irregular, according to the French plan of these islands ;t being
from 20 to 6 fathoms at a mile and a half from the shore, and
shoaling to 2 fathoms at the distance of 3^ miles, towards two
small islands in the S. S. W. The anchorage in this space has
already been mentioned at page 118.
The N. W. side of THREE-HUMMOCK ISLAND forms an open
and inconsiderable sandy bight, upwards of 2 miles across ; with
some breakers near the shore in its eastern part, and a small
detached reef abreast the middle of it, at a long mile from the
beach. This danger was not noticed by the French, who, in
1802, passed about a mile outside of it in 20 fathoms water, and
Sugar- Louf;
South side ;
Dangers off its
N. W. side.
" Here," observes Captain Flinders, " we were sheltered from N. 2 E., round
by the west to S. 30 E., and CIRCULAR HEAD was still visible, bearing S. 35 E. at
the distance of 7 or 8 leagues. The Tide had been running from the eastward all
the afternoon, and, contrary to expectation, we found it to be nearly low water by
the shore ; the flood, therefore, came from the west, and not from the eastward, as
at FURNEAUX'S ISLES. The little time there was for examining the coast, confined
my observations to what were necessary for giving it the formation it has on the
chart. The country is hilly, and Mr. Bass found it impenetrable from the closeness
of the tall brush- wood, although it had been partially burnt not long before. There
was very little soil spread over the rock and sand, and the general aspect was that
of sterility. Several deserted fire-places, strewed round with the shells of the sea-
ear, were found upon the shore." Introduction to Flinders, pp. 169, 170.
f Freyc. Atlas, PI. 8.
AUSTRALIA -BASS' STRAIT. 121
anchored in 10 fathoms, sandy bottom, half a mile to the north-
ward of the island's N. W. point. Breakers surround this pro- Three-hum-
jection of the island to a little distance ; and about a mile to the mock Island :
eastward of it, there is said to be a run of fresh water emptying Fresh water;
itself into the sea.*
The north coast of THREE-HUMMOCK ISLAND should not be Dangers near
approached very close, as it is fronted, for at leasthalf a mile, by * '
small rocks just below the water's surface, which nearly proved
fatal to H. M. Surveying cutter Mermaid, in January 1818, while
steering to the westward. Captain P. P. King thus describes
these dangers : " The next morning we entered BASS' STRAIT,
but the wind was so light and baffling, that we made no progress
until the 2d of January ; when, with a freshening breeze from the
eastward, we moved rapidly on our way, and flattered ourselves
with the hope of clearing the Strait before night. In this hope
we were not deceived ; but before it was effected, we had very
nearly suffered from the careless look-out of the man at the mast-
head. At 4 o'clock we were near THREE-HUMMOCK ISLAND, and
steered so as to pass close to its northern point, in order that we
might obtain a correct latitude for sights for the chronometers.
Being within half a mile of it, rocks were suddenly seen outside
and so close to us, that it was then too late either to haul up or
bear away ; the rocks to windward, and the land to leeward, pre-
venting us : nothing was therefore left to us but to proceed and
take the chance of finding sufficient depth of water between the
point and the rocks ; providentially there proved to be a passage
of one-eighth of a mile wide, and the cutter passed safely through.
These islands were examined by Commodore Baudin, and an
elaborate survey made of them by his officers ; but this danger is
not noticed on their plan of the group. The rocks bear N. 30 W.
(by compass) from the northernmost point of the island, and
N. 8 E. (by compass) from the northernmost hummock. I do
* M. Freycinet went on shore at the western extremity of this bight, and observes,
" We landed with ease in a small sandy bay, well sheltered, and very commodious ;
the points of which were low, and composed of granite. This portion of the island
is wooded, but the trees are low. We penetrated the woods in various directions,
and found them so thick and encumbered with fallen trees, that it was with some
difficulty we returned." Freycinet's Terr. Aust. p. 76.
R
1 22 AUSTRALIA B AS S' STRAIT.
' s ' not think they extend far from the shore. At sunset, we were
in the meridian of ALBATROSS ISLAND, and by midnight cleared
the Strait, when we steered a course for KING GEORGE THE
THIRD'S SOUND."*
s. E. island of HUNTER'S ISLES have now been described, with the exception
Group. of the S. Easternmost, which is marked on Captain FlinBers'
chart, as a low sandy island, nearly in the form of a square, with
a long narrow tongue projecting towards THREE-HUMMOCK
ISLAND, from its N. Western angle. This island was very im-
perfectly seen at the distance of several leagues, by that enter-
prising and able navigator, in the Norfolk sloop, in 1798; but
its insularity was not determined till 2 years afterwards, when
Lieutenant Robbins was despatched from PORT JACKSON for that
purpose, and gave to the southern part of the island the shape it
now bears on the chart of Flinders. The channel of 2 to 4
Robbins' Pas- miles wide, and 3 leagues in length, which Mr. Robbins dis-
sage.
covered between it and the shore of VAN DIEMEN'S LAND, has
received the name of ROBBINS' PASSAGE, and was found to con-
tain from 3 to 5 fathoms water in the middle of its eastern part,
and its navigable channel to have no more than 2 fathoms,
abreast of a small island that lies midway towards the western
entrance : the latter was not sounded, but appeared to be occu-
pied by extensive shoal flats, projecting from both shores, and
nearly choking the passage.
M. Freycinet examined the eastern part of this passage in
1802, and represents the channel to lie near the northern shore,
and close to the S. E. point of the island, which he named CAPE
ELiE.t In describing the opening, this intelligent officer says,
" It presents the appearance of a river, but is obstructed by
many banks, some of which dry at low water. To the S. S. W. of
CAPE ELIE, and nearly in the middle of the opening, is a small
islet, connected with the coast on the south side of the entrance,
by a bar, on which there is not much sea, with the wind blowing
King, vol. i. pp. 8, 9.
f The same officer affixed the name of CASUARINA'S ENTRANCE to this opening,
upon the supposition that it terminated with low land ; but Lieutenant Robbins
having ascertained that a passage existed through to the westward, the name con-
ferred by the French navigator has been discontinued.
AUSTRALIA- BASS' STRAIT. 123
t>iT the land. As you advance farther in, the banks show them-
selves in greater numbers, and end, in fact, by closing every
passage. I think that beyond this swamps will be met with,
and perhaps the bed of some torrent. The weakness of the
tides which we have observed in these parts, does not permit
me to suppose that there exists any considerable stream. Small
vessels will find excellent anchorage in the mouth of this opening,
and secure shelter from all winds. The passage is to the north
of the small islet above-mentioned, but keeping nearest to CAPE
ELIE ; the soundings will serve to point out the channel, in the
middle of which there are 4j, 4, and 3 fathoms water, sandy
bottom, and sometimes sand and weeds."*
Fresh water may be procured in the neighbourhood of CAPE Fresh water.
ELIE ; though the anchorage near it is quite exposed to all winds
between north and east. There are 5 fathoms water on a sandy
bottom, at 1 and 2 miles to the eastward of it, and 6 fathoms
rocky foul ground, close to a projection of rocks 3 miles farther
to the northward. A sandy bight is formed on each side of this
point ; that to the north being the most considerable, with 5 to 6
fathoms sand, at 2 and 3 miles off its beach. The north point of
this bight is also the north extremity of the island, and has
received from the French the name of CAPE BUACHE : it is low and Cape Buache,
sandy, and is placed by them in lat. 40 35J' S., Ion. 145 7f E.
from Greenwich, and has 3 small islets lying about half a mile
from its N. Western extreme.
CAPE BUACHE is defended by a shoal to the extent of 1 and 2 andshoaisnear
miles, which projects farthest from it in a northern direction, and li
on its west side extends more than half way over towards a
small island, which lies near the south extremity of BARREN
ISLAND. Between this shoal and another small island to the N.
Eastward of the former, there is a channel about a mile wide,
containing, in its deepest part, 8 and 9 fathoms, on a sandy bottom.
In some parts of this channel, the water is deepest close to the
shoals, which do not appear to have less than 1 1 feet water on
them, and should not be approached in bad weather. To sail
How to avoid
between them, as laid down in M. Freycinet's chart,t keep the them.
* Freyc. Terr. Aust. pp. 79, 80. t Freyc. Atlas, PI. 8.
124 AUSTRALIA BASS' STRAIT.
'*' west end of the small islet which lies near the south point of
BARREN ISLAND, in a line with the east end of the islet that lies
to the N. Eastward of it (bearing N. 54 E.) ; this mark will
clear the shoals on either hand, and must be carefully attended
to, on account of the narrowness and steepness of th** channel.
Both of these islands may apparently be approached close on
their eastern sides ; but the space of a mile and a half which
separates them, does not appear to have been sounded. A small
rock will be seen about a quarter of a mile off the N. E. end of
the southernmost, and must be avoided.
Bight to the The deep bight of 3 leagues wide, and 6 or 7 miles deep,
westward of
Cape Buache. formed between CAPE BUACHE and CAPE GRIM, the N. W.
extremity of VAN DIEMEN'S LAND, is said to be filled with
shoals, and to contain no anchorage.
Cape Grim : CAPE GRIM, the north extreme of VAN DIEMEN'S LAND,
is also the southern point of the west entrance to BASS'
STRAIT, and is a prominent projection, off which HUNTER'S ISLES
are more immediately situated. Captain Flinders passed about
2 miles to the westward of it in the Norfolk, and describes
it as " a steep, black head, which, from its appearance, I call
CAPE GRIM. It lies nearly due south, 4 miles from the
centre of TREFOIL, in lat. 40 44' S. ; the longitude will be
144 43' E., according to the position of ALBATROSS ISLAND
Rocks near it; made in the Investigator.* There are two rocks close to
CAPE GRIM, of the same description with itself. On the north
Shore on side of the cape, the shore is a low, sandy beach, and trends
N. Eastward 3 or 4 miles ; but whether there be a sufficient
depth of water for ships to pass between it and BARREN ISLAND
each side; has not been ascertained. To the south, the black cliffs extend
7 or 8 miles, when the shore falls back, eastward, to a sandy
bay, of which little could be perceived."t At the distance of
4 miles S. S. W. from the high conical rocks which lie close
to the cape,* and at a league from the cliffy shore abreast, the
Norfolk found 120 fathoms, on a sandy bottom. A shore so
By taking 144 43' for the longitude of ALBATROSS ISLAND, CAPE GRIM will
lie in 144 45' E. M. Freycinet made it in lat. 40 444' S., and Ion. 144" 53i' E. from
Greenwich.
t Flind. Introd. pp. 173, 174.
AUSTRALIA BASS' STRAIT. 125
steep should therefore be avoided in the night, or in thick weather,
especially with the wind blowing from the westward.
The Tide runs with considerable strength off this projecting Tide off Cape
headland, flowing from the S. W. by S., with a velocity of from
2 to 3 miles an hour.
The Magnetic Variation near this cape, is about 7| E. Variation.
Having in the foregoing pages described all the islands and
dangers which are known to exist in the western entrance of
BASS' STRAIT ; a description will now be given of its northern
shore, with Sailing Directions for proceeding from CAPE OTWAY
to the eastward.
Between CAPE OTWAY and WILSON'S PROMONTORY, which,
on the chart of Flinders, bears from it E. f S., distant about 44
leagues, the coast forms an extensive bight, in which are situated
two considerable harbours.
PORT PHILLIP, the westernmost of these, is the most exten- Port phmjn-
sive, but has so narrow an entrance, that it is considered to be
difficult and dangerous of access. This port was discovered and
entered by Lieutenant John Murray, in the Lady Nelson colonial
brig, in January 1802; and was visited shortly afterwards by
Captain Flinders, in the Investigator, who says, " POINT NEPEAN, Point Nepean,
on the east side of its entrance, lies in lat. 38 18' S. The lon-
gitude from 12 sets of distances taken by Lieutenant Flinders in
the port, and 6 others by me 10 days before arriving, is 144 30' E.;
but these observations being mostly on one side of the moon,
the corrected longitude by time-keepers, 144 38' E., is preferred."
This projection terminates in a narrow point of low rocky
cliffs, and is surrounded by small rocks and breakers to the extent and dangers
of nearly half a mile.* The opposite point of entrance is a
rocky projection between two sandy bights, and bears from POINT
NEPEAN W.by N. \ X., distant 2 long miles. Like the latter,
it is also fronted by a reef that is partly uncovered, and which
* Aust. Atlas, PI. XXI. View 13.
126
Part Phillip.
AUSTRALIA BASS' STRAIT.
contracts the width of the channel to little more than a mile.
This, however, is not the narrowest part of the navigable space ;
a small shoal lying to the N. W. by N. of POINT NEPEAN, and
nearly half-way over from the opposite shore. In order to avoid
Directions for this danger, which does not appear to be connected with the
shore to the northward of it, after hauling to the eastward as
close round POINT NEPEAN and its reefs as may be consistent
with safety, keep a small flat-topped hill which lies near the shore
6 or 7 miles to the westward, a very little open to the southward
of the west point of entrance (bearing W. N.) until the ex-
tremity of POINT NEPEAN bears due south ; you will then be
past the east end of the shoal, and may either continue on with
the same marks for 4 miles farther, or haul more to the south-
ward, and anchor near the south shore so soon as the ship is
sheltered.
Captain Flinders, after partially exploring this fine sheet of
water, says : " I find it very difficult to speak in general terms
of PORT PHILLIP. On the one hand, it is capable of receiving
and sheltering a larger fleet of ships than ever yet went to sea ;
whilst on the other, the entrance, in its whole width, is scarcely
2 miles, and nearly half of it is occupied by the rocks lying off
POINT NEPEAN, and by shoals on the opposite side. The depth
in the remaining part varies from 6 to 12 fathoms ; and this irre-
gularity causes the strong tides, especially when running against
the wind, to make breakers, in which small vessels should be
careful of engaging themselves ; and when a ship has passed the
entrance, the middle shoals are a great obstacle to a free pas-
sage up the port. These shoals are met with at 4 miles directly
from the entrance, and extend about 10 miles to the E. S. E.,
parallel with the south shore ; they do not seem, however, to be
one connected mass, for I believe there are two or three deep
openings in them, though we had not time to make an examina-
tion."
Between these shoals and the south shore are several channels,
from half a mile to a mile and a half wide, leading in an easterly
direction, and containing various depths of water from 14 fathoms
downwards. In some parts, the deepest water is found close to
the banks ; and on account of the strong tides which run in their
The middle
siioals ;
and channels
among them.
AUSTRALIA BASS' STRAIT. 127
vicinity, care is requisite to prevent being drifted upon them. The
northern banks appear to be connected with 3 small rocky islets, Three islets,
lying near each other, 6 miles E. by N. | N. from POINT NEPEAN,
and about half that distance from the sandy shore to the west-
ward and southward of them. They are low, but are rendered
conspicuous by some bushes on their summits ; and, on account
of the mud-flats which surround them, they should not be ap-
proached so near as a mile and a half on their S. W. side, or
within a mile when they are in a line with each other bearing
north. There is very good anchorage for ships of any size, Anchorage.
in 6 to 12 fathoms water, within a mile and a half of the south
shore, for 6 miles inside of POINT NEPEAN ; the more southern
shoals then commence, and may be avoided by not bringing the
three small islets already mentioned, to bear more to the north-
ward than N. \ E.
Near the shore, in the S. E. part of this Port, is the N. W.
termination of an elevated ridge of land, that rises at CAPE
SCHANCK, and extends N. by E. \ E. for nearly 3 leagues ; here
it terminates in a conspicuous high bluff, which is visible 13
leagues at sea, and has been called ARTHUR'S SEAT, from its sup- Arthur's Seat,
posed resemblance to the hill of that name near Edinburgh.*
From the abrupt manner in which this hill rises from the adjoining
low woody land to the westward, it is rendered a remarkable
object by which to distinguish the entrance of PORT PHILLIP ;
which has been, and is therefore again likely to be, mistaken for
the entrance to WESTERN PORT, situated 8 or 9 leagues farther
to the eastward. Good fresh water may be found running over Water, and
the beach at the foot of the SEAT, and is conveniently situated
for supplying the wants of shipping ; firewood is also abundant Firewood.
* Captain Flinders remarks, " ARTHUR'S SEAT and the hills and valleys in its
neighbourhood, were generally well covered with wood ; and the soil was superior to
any upon the borders of the salt water which I have had an opportunity of exa-
mining in AUSTRALIA. There were many marks of natives, such as deserted fire-
places and heaps of oyster shells ; and upon the peninsula which forms the south
side of the port a smoke was rising, but we did not see any of the people. Quan-
tities of fine oysters were lying upon the beaches, between high and low water
marks, and appeared to have been washed up by the surf; a circumstance which I
do not recollect to have observed in any other part of this country." Flinders,
vol. i. p. 213.
128 AUSTRALIA BASS' STRAIT.
hdiip. j n ^ e game neighbourhood ; and there is good anchorage in 4 and
5 fathoms water, within a mile of the beach. Although at the
distance of 4 leagues within the entrance, this" is the nearest con-
venient place in the port at which it is as yet known that a ship
can procure water and firewood at the same time ; the whole of
the western shore being almost as destitute of the former, as the
east and northern parts are abundantly supplied. A small
quantity was, however, found by Captain Flinders on that part of
INDENTED HEAD just within the entrance, and may probably be
found sufficient to supply the wants of a ship which, from any
particular circumstance, may not be able to get farther to the
eastward.
Directions for To arrive at the anchorage abreast of the watering place under
piace. d e ARTHUR'S SEAT, keep the flat-topped hill which is outside the
entrance of the port a very little shut over the northern extremity
of POINT NEPEAN (bearing W. \ N.) ; steer in the opposite
direction, in various soundings of 4 to 10 fathoms, keeping these
marks carefully on, and it will carry you between the extensive
northern shoals and another about 3| miles in length, which will
be half a mile distant on the starboard hand. When the three
small islets before mentioned bear N. 51| W. (N. W. \ W. a
little westerly), the centre of them will be in a line with the
southernmost of several remarkable peaks on the western shore
of the port ; keep them so, by steering in the opposite direction
for about a mile and a half, when you may anchor in 5 fathoms
water, a short mile from the beach, abreast of a good fresh-
water pond. With a fresh breeze from the northward, it would
be advisable to anchor about half a mile farther off shore, with
the southernmost peak over the centre of the northernmost or
largest islet ; the depth is there 6 or 7 fathoms, and the northerly
swell will be broken off by the nearest shoal in that direction,
which will not be distant so much as a mile.
The Middle The eastern termination of these extensive middle shoals, which
Sho'ils
are nowhere connected with the shore, is very steep, and has 7
fathoms close to 3 at its extremity. This part bears to the
N. W. of ARTHUR'S SEAT, and lies \\ mile from the nearest
shore to the S. E. of it; with a good channel of 7 and 8 fathoms
between them, and no bottom with 12 fathoms a little farther to
AUSTRALIA BASS' STRAIT. 129
the northward. The limit of these hanks in a northern direction
has not been ascertained ; but they do not appear to extend much
beyond the small islets, as there is no bottom at the depth of 12
fathoms, to be found 3 miles off them to the N. Eastward.
PORT PHILLIP occupies an extent of 10 leagues in a north and Extent of Port
south direction, and is from 5 to 6 leagues wide. A considerable
arm branches off to the W. S. W., and extends in that direction
about 5 leagues farther, having an entrance 6 or 7 miles wide,
and a small inner basin at its upper end, where, in case of neces- and its inner
sity, a ship might careen or effect any considerable repairs. The
entrance to this basin is somewhat more that 2 miles wide ; the
navigable channel, however, is contracted to a very narrow space,
by shoals which project from both shores, but extend farthest
from the northward, and nearly join those on the opposite side.
From 3 to 5 fathoms water are found near the middle and wes-
tern side of this basin, but in its north and south parts the shore
is fronted by mud-flats to the extent of 2 miles. Shoal banks
also front the shores outside the basin, and render it necessary,
in sailing up this western arm, to keep as near as possible in mid-
channel. Captain Flinders, while crossing over in his boat,
observes : " Its width was found to be 6 miles ; and the sound-
ings across augmented regularly to 6 fathoms in mid-channel,
and then decreased in the same way ; but there was less than
3 fathoms at two miles from the northern shore. That side is,
indeed, very low and marshy; with mud-banks lying along it:
and we had difficulty in finding a dry place to pitch the tent, and
still more to find wood wherewith to cook the ducks I had shot
upon the banks."*
At 3 and 4 miles from the north shore of the western branch,
is a small range of " rocky hills, covered and surrounded with
wood," and rising conspicuously from low grassy plains. The
S. Westernmost of these hilhf called STATION PEAK, is visible Station Peak.
13 leagues from the deck of a ship in clear weather, and is the
mark referred to in page 128, for pointing out the watering-
place near ARTHUR'S SEAT; its lat. is, 38 2' S., and Ion. 144
22i' E., by Captain Flinders.t
* Flind. vol.i. pp. 215, 216.
f This officer having landed at the foot of the hills, gives the following account
S
1 30 AUSTRALIA - B AS S' STRAIT.
Philip. INDENTED HEAD is the N. E. extremity of a peninsula of
I ndentedHead. gently rising grassy hills, projecting into PORT PHILLIP, and
separating its western arm from the entrance afToiNT NEPEAN.
The length of this peninsula is 6 leagues, and its breadth about
as many miles. A shoal extends round its north and east sides,
for upwards of a mile; and on its S. E. side is a shoal boat-
Swan Pond, harbour, called SWAN POND, which is full of mud-banks, and
seldom more than 3 or 4 feet in depth : at the south side of its
entrance, upon the sandy peninsula, or island, as it is when the
tide is in, Captain Flinders found some fresh water in small
and a shoal to ponds. A two-fathom bank, about a mile in extent, and of tri-
wani. angular shape, lies from 1 to 2 miles S. E. of this island, with
a channel between them, containing 3 and 4 fathoms water : close
to its east side are 7 to 9 fathoms ; but in this direction, the three
small islets on the middle shoals are distant upwards of 2 miles,
and the extent of the bank which projects from it on this side,
has not been ascertained.
The northern part of PORT PHILLIP has very seldom been
visited, and holds out no inducement for a ship to go there for
wood and water, when it can be procured with so much greater
of bis excursion to their summit: "At day dawn I set off with three of the boat's
crew, for the highest part of the back hills called STATION PEAK. Our way was
over a low plain, where the water appeared frequently to lodge ; it was covered
with small-bladed grass, but almost destitute of wood, and the soil was clayey and
shallow. One or two miles before arriving at the feet of the hills, we entered a
wood where an emu and a kangaroo were seen at a distance ; and the top of the
peak was reached at 10 o'clock. My position was then 21' of latitude from POINT
NEPEAN, in the direction of N. 28JW., and I saw the water of the port as far as
N. 75 E., at the distance of 7 or 8 leagues ; so that the whole extent of the port,
north and south, is at least 30 miles. The extremity of the western arm bore
S. 15| W., which makes the extent, east and west, to be 36 miles ; but there was
no communication with the sea on that side, nor did the western arm appear to be
navigable beyond 7 miles above where L.-fcid crossed it. Towards the interior
there was a mountain bearing N. 11 E., 11 leagues distant; and so far the country
was low, grassy, and very slightly covered with wood, presenting great facility to a
traveller desirous of penetrating inland. I left the ship's name on a scroll of paper,
deposited in a small pile of stones upon the top of the peak ; and at three in the after-
noon reached the tent, much fatigued, having walked more than 20 miles without
finding a drop of water. Mr. Lacy, the midshipman of the boat, had observed
the latitude at the tent from an artificial horizon to be 38 2' 22" S. ; and STATION
PEAK bore from thence N. 47" W." Flinders, vol. i. p. 216.
AUSTRALIA BASS' STRAIT. 131
facility near ARTHUR'S SEAT. Two small streams of fresh
water having, nevertheless, been discovered falling into that part Freshwater:
of the port, they would probably be found available for supplying
the wants of a ship in that respect, should all other sources fail.
The anchorage off them is in 4 and 5 fathoms water, a long mile anchorage off
from the shore ; but, being quite exposed to southerly and S. W.
winds, which frequently blow here in strong gales, it should not
be occupied for a longer period than is necessary. This portion
of the shores is lined by a shoal flat to the extent of 1 and 2 miles,
except at the estuary of the fresh water streams just spoken of,
where there is a channel half a mile wide, which appears capable
of admitting boats or small craft at any time of the tide. The
soundings decrease gradually towards this flat, and are from 5 to
8 fathoms at 3 miles off the shore. Towards the middle of the
port, the depth of water has not been ascertained ; but it was
found by Captain Flinders to be upwards of 12 fathoms at 3
miles N. Eastward of the islets on the middle shoals, and the
same at a less distance from the east shore abreast of them.
" The rise of Tide is inconsiderable in the upper parts of the Tide.
port," according to the above officer, and " near the entrance it is
from 3 to 6 feet. By the swinging of the ship, which however
varied at different anchorages, it appeared to be high water two
hours and a half after the moon's passage ; but at POINT NEPEAN,
the time of high water by the shore is said by Mr. Grimes to
be only one hour after the moon."* According to Lieutenant
Murray, it is high water at three o'clock on full and change
of the moon ; and the perpendicular rise of the tide is about 6
feet.
The same officer ascertained the Magnetic Variation here to Variation.
be about 8 E. Flinders considered it to be generally 7 E.
throughout the port, from observations taken outside; and at
some of his stations even half a degree less.t
" At WESTERN PORT, Mr. Bass found high water to take place half an hour after
the moon's passage, and the tide to rise from 10 to 14 feet. This great increase,
in a place so near, seems extraordinary ; but may perhaps be accounted for by
the meeting of the tides from two entrances, whilst PORT PHILLIP has only one,
and that very narrow." Flinders, vol. i. p. 220.
f This officer says, " No observations were taken in the port for the variation of
132 AUSTRALIA BASS' STRAIT,
Port Phillip. With respect to the re f res ) imen ts that a sjjip is likely to pro
Refreshments. cure here, the same navigator observes, " In the woods are the
kangaroo, the emu or cassowary, paroquets, and a variety of
small birds ; the mud-banks are frequented by ducks and some
black swans, and the shores by the usual sea-fowl common in
New South Wales." The recent establishment of a colonial
settlement at WESTERN PORT, and the superior approach to it from
the sea, will, however, always give it a decided advantage over
PORT PHILLIP, whenever a preference is optional.
Western Port. WESTERN PORT, situated in the great bight which is formed
between WILSON'S PROMONTORY and CAPE OTWAY, was dis-
covered in 1798 by the enterprising Mr. Bass, in an open boat
from PORT JACKSON ; and has recently been selected by the
Government, for the site of a colonial establishment. Captain
F. A. Wetherall, R.N., to whom, in H. M. S. Fly, the charge of
forming this new settlement was entrusted, gives the following
account of the port and its capabilities :
"WESTERN PORT is situated on the north side of BASS'
STRAIT, in the immediate vicinity of PORT PHILLIP ; from which
it is separated by a narrow promontory forming the east side of
the latter, and bounding the principal entrance and west side of
the former. Its general outline is irregular, but may be com-
pared to that of a deep bay, defended from the sea by an island
stretching across the mouth of it, and containing, in the upper
part, another island, round which the tide flows in a channel of
varying dimensions, though sufficiently equal to give it somewhat
the appearance of the bend of a wide river.
Phillip Island. " PHILLIP ISLAND, which forms the sea barrier, is separated
from the main land on the east, by a channel about 250 yards
wide at the nearest points, irregular, intricate, and foil of shoals.
Its place is well marked by the bold steep headland in which the
island terminates ; it is called CAPE WOLLAMAI, and may serve
the compass ; but at 1 leagues to the S. S. W. of POINT NEPEAX, azimuths gave
341'E. when the ship's head was at N. E. by E. E., and an amplitude atN. N.E.
E., 6 48' E. The mean of these, corrected to the meridian, will be 7" 30', or
half a degree less than at KING'S ISLAND ; I therefore take the variation in PORT
PHILLIP to have been generally, 7, though at some stations it seemed to have been
no more than 0" 30' E." Flinders, vol. i. p. 220.
AUSTRALIA BAS S STRAIT. 1 33
as a guide to vessels coming in that direction.* This cape rises
to a considerable elevation, and is remarkable for its wedge-like C. Woliamai.
shape, and the red colour of the precipice at the southern
extremity, which is the highest land in the island. These are the
more necessary to observe, as there is a possibility of mistaking
PORT PHILLIP for WESTERN PORT, which Captain Flinders
actually did. The former having many sunken rocks at its
entrance, the consequences of doing so might be serious.
" From CAPE WOLLAMAI, the south coast of PHILLIP ISLAND
trends to the W. N. W. for about 13 miles, making two large
sweeps with an exposed height between them, and ends in a
craggy point ; beyond which, a square-topped islet and a ledge Point Grant,
of rocks jut out into the sea." The Lady Nelson passed between
this islet and two small rocks lying close together to the S. W.
of it,t in soundings from 6 to 2 fathoms ; and the former depth
has been found by a French navigator, in the same situation ;
but the channel being less than a quarter of a mile wide, it should
not be attempted unless in an emergency. " This craggy projec-
tion is named POINT GRANT, and the space between it and CAPE
SCHANCK (the extremity of the opposite promontory) forms the
western or principal entrance to the harbour. POINT GRANT
may be readily distinguished by the high flat-topped islet lying
off it, with several small rocky patches at the foot ; by the
channel beyond it trending to the N. N. E., westward of which
is the high land of CAPE SCHANCK, with a rock resembling a
sail at the extremity ; by a high needle-shaped islet a few miles
to the eastward, behind PHILLIP ISLAND ; and by its situation
with respect to CAPE WOLLAMAI.
" From POINT GRANT, the shore of PHILLIP ISLAND turns sud- North shore of
denly to the N. N. E., and receding along the channel in a series
of small sandy bays, terminates to the northward in a steep hill
* " WOLLAMAI is the native name for a fish at PORT JACKSON, called sometimes
by the settlers, light horseman, from the bones of the head having some resemblance
to a helmet ; and the form of this cape bearing a likeness to the head of the fish,
induced Mr. Bass to give it the name of Woliamai. Its lat. is 38 33' S., and Ion.
H5 U 25'E. Flinders, vol. i. p. 222.
f Some little difficulty being found in identifying these rocks, on account of their
being variously placed by four different navigators, a commander should pass outside
of them, until they are better known.
1 34 AUSTRALIA B AS S> STRAIT.
Western Port. o ^ nQ g rea ^ elevation, with a lagoon lying along the west side of
it. It then extends for a short distance to the east, and presently
after, inclining to the southward, reaches the other passage by
several irregular bights, scarcely accessible from the mud-flats
which lie off them. The north shore of PHILLIP ISLAND, though
bold, should be shunned ; as the tides set along it with
velocity, and may sweep vessels too near the shore in calm
weather. The whole of its surface is a succession of low hills,
partially covered with vegetation, with plains between them ; but
Fresh water, it is almost destitute of fresh water on the side fronting the
anchorage, and but partially covered on the other. A lake of
some extent was found near the east passage, and another on the
sea coast not far from POINT GRANT ; but both are too remote to
derive much advantage from, especially in ships, where boats
could not reach them in bad weather. Several attempts were
made by us to obtain it by digging, even at a good distance from
the shore : the water, however, was brackish and bad in all save
one, and its supply probably depended more on the quantity of
rain which fell at the time, than from any spring which might
exist beneath. On a sandy point at the entrance to the lagoon,
is' a well which might supply about a ton per day ; but this would
be inadequate to the demand of vessels in the roadsted, nor does
its quality appear to be fitted for any other than the most ordinary
purposes.*
East entrance. " The eastern passage, by which Mr. Bass entered the port,
is still practicable for small vessels, and even for those of 200
and 300 tons ; but, as already stated, it is narrow, intricate, and
full of shoals. A sandy spit projecting from the main land
towards CAPE WOLLAMAI, forms a kind of shelter, with 3 fathoms
water at low ebb ; and a little higher, there is good anchorage in
4 and 5 fathoms, within the point. A stranger, however, ought
on no account to attempt this entrance ; for, independent of its
dangers, the harbour in the corner to which it opens is full of
banks which, from their steepness and the dark colour of the
water, cannot be readily avoided.
A small fortification, called FORT DUMAHESQ, has been erected on the N. E.
point of PHILLIP ISLAND, for the protection of the roadsted, and may be discerned
by its flag-staff. The bights to the eastward of it are very shoal.
AUSTRALIA BASS' STRAIT. 133
" The main land opposite the eastern passage is high, thinly
wooded with short trees, and clothed with coarse grass to the
water side. About 5 miles above this, in a shoal bay, is a river
discovered by Mr. Bass, which winds for some distance in a Bass' River,
channel that can be reached by boats at half-tide only, and after-
wards through a marshy flat country, to the distance of nearly
3 miles in a direct line from the beach. The quantity of water
discharged by this river, is not at all commensurate with the
depth of its bed, which is enlarged by the flux and reflux of the
tide, and looks like the estuary of a large stream. We found it
tolerably fresh abreast of the rich land, when drawn at low ebb,
but brackish as far as we went after the flood set in.*
" Behind the northern part of the harbour, the soil is every- Northern shore
where wet, the water in some parts following our footsteps ; so p orti es
that it is probable a lake or a reedy morass occupies a consider-
able portion of the district : the shore is low, muddy, and inac-
cessible till after half-tide. The rivers which we were told fell
into the sea here, were anxiously sought after, and four incon-
siderable streams found, which certainly make a respectable Four rivers.
Mr. Bass had great difficulty in procuring good water in this spacious port,
arising, as lie judged, from unusual dryness in the season (January) ; and the head of
the winding creek which bears his name, was the sole place where it had not a
brackish taste. He states, " the mud-banks at the entrance of the creek may be
passed at half-tide by the largest boats ; and within it, there is at all times a sufficient
depth of water.
" No more than four natives were seen, and their shyness prevented communica-
tion ; the borders of the port, however, bore marks of having been much frequented,
but the want of water seemed to have occasioned a migration to the higher lands.
Kangaroos did not appear to be numerous ; but black swans went by hundreds in a
flight, and ducks, a small but excellent kind, by thousands ; and the usual wild fowl
were in abundance." Introduction to Flinders, vol. i. p. 114.
Captain Wetherall had an opportunity of establishing a friendly intercourse with
a tribe of the natives, whom he met accidentally near one of the rivers in the nor-
thern part of the harbour ; and says, " they are in general excessively shy, on
account of the bad treatment they have received at times from sealers, and perhaps
run-aways from VAN DiEMEx'a LAND. On this occasion they appeared timid and
suspicious, but soon placed an implicit confidence in us; and, on the whole, are an
inoffensive people, by no means deficient in intellect. Before leaving us, they pro-
mised to visit the settlement ; the more readily, as they understood hatchets were to
be obtained there, on which they place very great value. They were evidently
acquainted with the effects of our fire-arms, and seemed to dread them greatly ; but
this, as far as we could conjecture, was only from report, till they saw ours."
136 AUSTRALIA BASS' STRAIT.
appearance when the flood is up their channels, but dwindle away
/ as it recedes. These were traced so far as to leave no doubt of
their origin, and one of them was followed to its source. They
wind at first in deep beds, principally excavated by the tide ; but
soon dividing, and subdividing, terminate in small rills at no
great distance from the beach, and seem to act merely as drains
to the swamp behind them. The easternmost lies in a corner
N. by W. from the N. E. end of FRENCH ISLAND ; the second
and third about 5 miles farther on, near a projecting point which
will be readily observed from the former ; and the fourth about
3 miles more to the westward. Neither of them is so large as
BASS' RIVER ; and the three westernmost are not, like it, encum-
bered with fallen trees : their water, except in the first, is brackish
and bad for a long way. Several small inlets of a similar
description were met with along the coast; but one only, which
A lagoon. was deeper and broader than either of the rivers, appeared to be
of any consequence. It turned out, however, to be a salt lagoon ;
the neck of land between which and a bay to the westward, is
generally laid down as an island on the charts, and bears about
N. by E. from the N. W. point of FRENCH ISLAND.
French island; " FRENCH ISLAND is in shape an irregular pentagon, occupying
a very considerable portion of the head of the harbour, and nearly
following its course. On the north arid west sides, the beach is
low and marshy, covered with a thick jungle, which seems to
extend to the rising ground behind : on the south and east sides,
it is bolder. A little above the mouth of the east branch of the
harbour, a small rivulet discharges itself, and probably there may
be others ; but, generally speaking, this island partakes of the
same scarcity of water as the others.
and space to " The space between FRENCH ISLAND and the main to the
the northward northward, is occupied by extensive mud-flats, covered with long
sea-grass, and left partially dry by the ebb ; which make it
scarcely possible to land at any time of tide. The rivers are equal ly
inaccessible till a boat can float within a few yards of the beach ;
for the mud is so soft beyond this, that an oar may be thrust
down to the top with the greatest ease. The banks in the mid-
channel are nearly of a similar nature ; but those which take a
transverse direction, are firm compact masses of sand and gravel.
AUSTRALIA BASS' STRAIT. 137
" The opening of the EAST BRANCH of the harbour at RED
POINT, is narrowed by PENGUIN ISLAND, and by a rocky shoal East Branch.
almost half way between it and FRENCH ISLAND. The former is
merely a collection of loose black stones, with a few bushes
growing on the middle of it. The passage to the eastward has
water for small craft, with a strong eddy tide setting through, and
several projecting rocks near RED POINT ; both of which materially
increase the danger of passing it, in any thing larger than a boat.
That to the westward, or between it and the shoal, is deep and
safe ; though a vessel can work with greater facility in the one
beyond it, formed between the shoal and FRENCH ISLAND, which
is broader, and has a bolder shore. This last, therefore, may be
considered as the best course to the anchorage above. It lies
close along the side of FRENCH ISLAND, and is full of eddies
from the violence of the current, in which, however, there are
generally 16 or 17 fathoms water, and nowhere less than 10.
The shoal which separates these two channels, is a mass of flinty
slate-stones, dry at half-ebb, for which no bearings can be given
intelligible to a stranger ; and until beacons can be placed on the
ends of it, I would recommend getting under weigh at the
beginning of the flood, and working up while it is yet above
water. Having cleared these narrows, there is good shelter Anchorage,
in a bay immediately above, formed by the island on one side, a
and a long sand parallel with it to the eastward; or, if
the main channel be preferred, there is fine mooring ground
in 7, 6, and 5 fathoms water, for several miles. This likewise
inclines towards FRENCH ISLAND ; the opposite shore being shoals in the
skirted with banks, on which there is never more than 6 feet '
water.
" It is impossible to give any adequate idea, by description, of
the situation and number of the shoals here. Generally speaking,
the bed of the stream is clear, about a mile and a half from the
island, and follows its course until nearly the same distance from
a sandy point at its N. E. extremity, when it bends along as the
main land does, and is only practicable for boats." Captain
Wetherall adds, " I look upon the navigation of the EAST
BRANCH, as too intricate to be attempted under any circum-
stances, until experience has decided that the shoals are per-
T
Colonial Set-
tlement.
Anchorage :
138 AUSTRALIA BASS' STRAIT.
' manent in their positions, and our knowledge of them can be
depended upon ; this is much to be regretted, as fresh water could
be procured for shipping in abundance."
The Colonial Settlement which has recently been formed in
this port, is situated about a mile round the north side of RED
POINT, which is easily recognized by a flag-staff that has been
erected on its red bluff extremity, and by PENGUIN ISLAND lying
about one third of a mile to the westward of it. Ships cannot
approach the settlement nearer than three quarters of a mile, on
account of a mud-flat which extends that distance from the shore
above RED POINT ; but there is a channel for boats and small
craft, about a cable's length from high-water mark, for the first
mile and a half; after which, it curves to the northward, and
finally joins the main channel of the EAST BRANCH. The best
anchorage for ships visiting the settlement, appears to be in 6 or 7
fathoms water, three quarters of a mile north from PENGUIN ISLAND,
according to the plan of this port by Captain Wetherall, which
is the authority relied upon for the description here given. On
account of the liability of these shoals to shift their positions, a
stranger should be cautious in trusting implicitly to any chart, for
his guidance here; as all the authorities extant, differ in their
delineation of the banks, and of the shores off which they are
situated. From amongst these discrepancies, it may be useful
and approach to select one which may possibly prevent a ship grounding,
by attempting the passage eastward of PENGUIN ISLAND ; the
French survey by M. Faure, having joined that island to the
main by a sunken reef, where the other authorities mark a deep
though narrow passage. The same plan projects a spit of 2 and
3 fathoms, upwards of three quarters of a mile S. W. from PEN-
GUIN ISLAND, till it nearly meets another narrow spit of the same
description, which stretches westward from the main, and leaves
a channel only one third of a mile wide, between -them and
the shoals which lie off the S. E. point of FRENCH ISLAND.
A boat should therefore be sent to lie on the S. E. extremity
of these western shoals, before the passage is attempted by
a stranger; who may then steer towards the S. E. point of
FRENCH ISLAND, and make free with its shore, while passing
PENGUIN ISLAND, until the latter bears S. E. by E. ; a more
AUSTRALIA BASS' STRAIT.
easterly course may then be eteered, for the anchorage recom-
mended to the northward of it.
" The WEST BRANCH of the port," says Captain Wetherall, West Branch ;
" is rather uniform in its appearance, but is straighter and deeper
than the other. The main land is tolerably high ; a ridge of hills
occupying the central line between this and PORT PHILLIP, and
sloping all round from their greatest elevation about the middle
of the promontory. To commence at the upper end of it ; the
small bay which lies near the salt lagoon already mentioned, has ami two small
the first dry land behind it, which we met with at the head of the
harbour. The shores are low, and closely wooded ; beyond them,
trees of considerable magnitude are seen on the rising ground ; and
in one corner, a small rivulet discharges itself. It is, however, too
shoal to admit vessels, and is exposed to a heavy sea from the
southward.
" The next object of interest is another bay, with an island in bays in it.
the centre of it, which we hoped might afford shelter and
anchorage. Here, too, we found fresh water at some distance
from the beach ; but the anchorage fell short of our expectations.
A narrow winding channel was discovered, but a ship of burden
dare not attempt it without a leading wind, and scarcely then with
safety : it lies to the northward of the island ; the other side
having only 3 feet water across. The entrance to this bay is
contracted by a sand running obliquely from the north point of
it, and the channel from thence is narrow and tortuous ; as the
bank which stretches between the island and the main neces-
sarily confines it to the north side only. We found not less than
3 fathoms at the mouth, and farther up 4 and 5 fathoms ; never-
theless, it more resembles a river than an anchorage, and con-
tains scarcely room enough to admit of vessels passing each
other, or swinging to their moorings. Behind the island, a spit
projects to the eastward for some furlongs, and is the only one
we met with in this branch, which takes that direction. Between
the base of it and the southern extremity of the bay, there is
scarcely water for boats ; so that, notwithstanding its commo-
dious appearance, there is shelter for small craft only, who can
follow the windings of the channel.
" From the south end of the above bay to SANDY POINT, the
140
ffestern Poi-t.
Coast north of
Sandy Point.
A lagoon.
Shoals in the
W. Branch.
TortoiseHead.
Sandy Point to
Cape Schanck.
AUSTRALIA BASS' STRAIT.
coast is faced with banks which extend in a direct line, without fol-
lowing its sinuosities, to the beach of the latter. They are steep
on the channel side, and being" dry at half-ebb, completely cut off
all communication with the shore, except in boats at the top of
high water. About the middle of this, we noticed a lagoon, with
a small rivulet running into it, which we could not reach at that
time, and did not think of sufficient importance to examine. The
harbour is here broad and exposed, with 8, 9, and 10 fathoms
water, and a rapid tide. It extends in a north and south direc-
tion, and is free from shoals in the middle, which some surveys
had led us to expect would have been abundant. It is therefore
not improbable that many of these are of a temporary kind, and
depend upon the strength and duration of the prevailing winds,
which will have a corresponding influence on the currents, or
raise an unusual swell in some particular direction. The bight
at the head of it resembles the shore to the eastward ; having
only a fathom water at high tide, over the greater part, with a
dark muddy bottom, and low beach. Outside of this, the sound-
ings soon increase to 6 fathoms, a border of fine white sand
marking the edge of the stream, and continue very regular till
nearly opposite the before-mentioned bay with the small island
in it, where they deepen to 7 fathoms."
" Opposite SANDY POINT, there is a hill on FRENCH ISLAND,
which is insulated at high water, and will be recognized as that
marked TORTOISE HEAD on the charts. Between this and the
S. E. corner of the island, a reef extends along the coast, and
renders it expedient to avoid that side in working up ; but after
rounding a small islet which lies in the southern part of the
channel, it becomes the safest side, and should be kept aboard as
much as possible. This last, however, only applies to vessels
bound for the settlement.
" The WEST BRANCH offers nothing like shelter for any num-
ber of vessels ; and as for laying in the open stream, it is totally
out of the question ; for the swell which rises there, when the
wind blows strong from the northward or southward, is such as
few ships could ride to, and no boat live in.
" Beyond SANDY POINT, as far as CAPE SCHANCK, the heavy
breakers render it impossible to land, except in fine weather, as
AUSTRALIA - BASS' STRAIT. 141
we then open the western entrance. In some places there
appear to be considerable openings, through which the ebb and
flood set ; but in every situation of this kind, whether the obstruc-
tion be a reef or a sand-bar, the least breeze raises a heavy swell,
on account of the strength of the current ; and often causes it to
break where there is no shoal.
" The hills to the northward are pretty clear, with a fine
gradual ascent ; but towards the cape, they become precipitous
and bare, within the influence of the salt spray. The trees, like-
wise, which invest the ridge, appear diminutive, as on the hills
near BASS' RIVER.
" Perhaps no harbour in the world is so easy of access as West entrance;
WESTERN PORT, by its entrance round POINT GRANT. The
channel is broad, open, and free from any hidden danger : there
is no bar at the mouth, nor shoal in its course, except those on
the west side, where the surf breaks ; and between these and
PHILLIP ISLAND, there is sufficient room for a vessel of any size
to work in or out. The ebb and flood always raise a sufficient
ripple to break on the banks, and give timely notice of the shoal
water on the main-land side : if that cannot be trusted, the best
plan will be to follow the course of the island about a mile from
the shore ; or, if with a beating wind, to tack whenever there is
less than 10 fathoms towards the shoals, and 7 on the other
side; the medium depths in the channel being 15, 16, and 17
fathoms.* With ordinary caution, therefore, a vessel may reach
* It is necessary to observe, this differs essentially from the account rendered by
the French, who sun-eyed this port in 1802; but answers very well to a description
given of it, about the same time, by Mr. Barallier, in the Lady Nelson, which may-
be seen in Plate VI. of the Australian Atlas. The French Survey, by M. Faure, repre-
sents the western entrance to be 6 or 7 miles in length, and about half as wide ;
with a shoal extending in some parts more than a mile from the main ; another shoal
fronting the shore of PHILLIP ISLAND to the extent of half a mile, in a bight round
its N. Vf. side ; and a chain of covered reefs occupying nearly the whole length of
the mid-channel, and in some parts approaching within a mile of the island. From
4 to 5 fathoms (English) are laid down in the channel between these reefs and
PHILLIP ISLAND, borrowing towards the former, and the following are the remarks
given by M. Freycinet, descriptive of the plan: "The western passage is prefer-
able to the eastern, and is divided into two distinct parts by a chain of breakers.
That which is nearest to PHILLIP ISLAND, and the only one we have examined, is
commodious, inasmuch as you have always the land for a guide ; and as to the depth
142 AUSTRALIA BASS' STRAIT.
wt ' SANDY POINT ; and then, hauling up to the eastward, anchor
and directions abreast of the flag-staff on PHILLIP ISLAND, anywhere without
rin> low-water mark ; which, in some places is nearly half a mile from
the steep shore fronting the basin (a salt-water lagoon). It is
not advisable to stand farther on in this direction, as the whole of
the deep bight towards BASS' RIVER and the east entrance, is
encumbered with shoals which I suspect are apt to shift their
positions. The line between the flag-staff on PHILLIP ISLAND
and that on RED POINT, will be a guide through ; the former may
be brought to bear S. W. by W. (mag.) and the latter N. E. by N.
(mag.). Westward of this, the average depth of the basin will
be 7 fathoms on the north and south sides ; 8 and 8j in the
middle; and 9 or 10 as we approach SANDY POINT: its length
is about 7 miles, and breadth 4.
West entrance; " We made the mid-channel of the western entrance in lat.
38 35' S., and longitude by chronometer 145 11 J' E."* Mr.
Pritchard, R.N., having been despatched by Captain Kent, of
H. M. S. Buffalo, to examine WESTERN PORT; in 1804; that
officer stated the western entrance to lie in lat. 38 31 ' 40" S.,
and gave the following directions for sailing into it:
and directions " In sailing in with a leading wind ; when abreast of the small
the S port! S island at the entrance, E. N. E.f with little variation, is the course
up the port ; observing that from off the main on the larboard
hand, run extensive sand-rollers, which make it necessary to keep
over towards PHILLIP ISLAND, where you will have 10 fathoms
water within half a mile of the shore. Having stood to the east-
ward until you open the WEST BRANCH of the port, and bring
SANDY POINT to bear about X. by W., and the west point of
of water, it is sufficient to admit the largest vessels. It is recommended to keep in
mid-channel, where the depth will be found from 6 to 7 and 8 fathoms (English), on
a sandy bottom." Freycinet's Terr. Aust. p. 113, and Atlas, PI. 12.
" This does not differ materially from the position assigned to it by Captain
Flinders, especially in longitude, the most essential particular. Our observations
gave the latitude nearer the French account than the English ; but as the altitude
of the sun was too great for an artificial horizon with the sextant, there may pos-
sibly be some error arising Irom the estimation of the dip. The flat rock oft' POINT
GRANT is in lat 38 35' S., Ion. 145 7|' E." The French made it in lat, 38 35' S.,
Ion . 1 45" 14 J' E. from Greenwich ; and it is placed by Flinders in lat. 38 30' S., Ion.
145 7j'E. See Freycinet's Atlas, PI. 11 ; and Australian Atlas, PI. VI.
t All the bearings given in Mr. Pritchard's directions are by compass.
AUSTRALIA -BASS* STRAIT. 143
FRENCH ISLAND N. N. E., you may anchor there in 10 or 14 mstern Port '
fathoms, abreast of a watering place on PHILLIP ISLAND, which
was discovered by the Lady Nelson in 1802. The water is far
from good, and can be procured in small quantities only, from a
swamp about 50 yards from the ' beach. As a ship is here ex-
posed to a heavy sea from the westward, should any stay be
intended, it would be prudent to run further up: E. N. E. will
carry you clear of dangers for 7 or 8 miles more ; but it is to be
observed that, from the western point of FRENCH ISLAND, there
angles off an extensive mud-shoal, leaving a channel about 2
miles wide, between it and PHILLIP ISLAND. A vessel ought
not to approach this flat nearer than 6 fathoms ; and then, by
hauling a little to the northward, the water will deepen. Having
brought the N. E. point of PHILLIP ISLAND to bear south, distant
2 miles, continue the E. N. E. course till a bluff red point of the
main on your starboard hand, shows itself open of a small rocky
islet covered with wood (PENGUIN ISLAND) ; steer directly for
this islet, and you will carry in the channel, from 15 to 7 fathoms.
The best anchorage appears to be in 8 or 10 fathoms water, with Anchorage;
the islet bearing N. E. | E. distant If mile, and the S. E. point
of FRENCH ISLAND S. W. The Integrity (small cutter, in which
the examination was made) worked down from this anchorage to
the Nelson's watering place, and by going about as the water
shoaled to 6 fathoms, kept clear of the mud-flats on either
shore.
" This port is by far too spacious to be a good one ; nor does ami capabiii-
it possess any projecting points or deep coves, where a ship
might lie out of the tide, or find shelter. The shores of the main
and of the islands, are fronted by extensive mud-flats, which
render it difficult, if not impossible, to land, except at or near high
water. The navigation above the last anchorage, to the head of
the port, and round FRENCH ISLAND, is intricate and full of shoals,
and should by no means be attempted by a stranger without pre-
vious examination. The Tides run extremely rapid, seldom less Tije -
than 2 miles an hour, and at the springs rise about 13 feet. There
is no fresh water to be procured here, without the greatest diffi-
culty ; for although there is a small fresh stream at the head of
the port, it is inaccessible except at high water ; and its distance
144 AUSTRALIA BASS' STRAIT.
' from the anchorage is much against its being procured in any
quantity. From this description it will be seen, that nothing
but stress of weather could induce a ship to enter WESTERN
PORT."
Tltle - Captain Wetherall observes, " The rise of Tide in this port
differs between PHILLIP ISLAND and the head of the harbour
nearly a foot and a half, and at all times depends much on the
prevailing winds. In the basin it flows till half-past eleven full
and change, and rises 8 feet, but more commonly 1\ feet. Above
FRENCH ISLAND it is a quarter of an hour later, and attains the
height of from 8 to 1 1 feet, according to our observations ; which
is owing to an accumulation of water from the meeting of the
two currents by the east and west branches ; but the wind so
influences both its height and the time of attaining it, that there
is not unfrequently a greater tide at the neaps than during the
springs ; and both the ebb and flood are sometimes accelerated
or retarded half an hour, or more. Trifling as the rise appears
to be, it is of great importance to attend to it, where the shoals
are numerous ; and the tides run so strong, that it is useless to
contend against them, with a foul wind. Ships on entering the
port should therefore select a time when they are likely to reach
an anchorage before it turns, and be exceedingly careful of working
among the banks at the top of flood ; as it is impossible to
depend upon the succeeding tide rising to the same height.*
Variation. " The Magnetic Variation observed on shore, was found to be
8 30' E.
Cape Schanck. CAPE SCHANCK, the south extremity of a peninsula which
separates WESTERN PORT from PORT PHILLIP, is represented by
Captain Flinders as, " a cliffy head, with 3 rocks lying off, the
* The French officers attached to Captain Baudin's expedition, who sun-eyed this
port in ]802, observed " the time of high water in the east and west basins to be at
8h. 30m. The current," continues M. Milius, " runs at the rate of 2 miles an hour,
and the rise and fall in ordinary tides is 6 to 7 feet ; but I think that in some cir-
cumstances, it will amount to 12 feet. In the east entrance, the time of high water
differs a great deal from that in the interior of the port ; I have observed it take
place at 1 \\ hours, one day after the first quarter of the moon ; which gives 1 hours
for the time in the port." Freycinet, p. 115.
Mr. Bass found the time of high water in the entrance, to be near half an hour
after the moon's passage over the meridian ; and the rise of tide, from 10 to 14 feet.
AUSTRALIA BASS' STRAIT. 145
outermost of which appears at a distance like a ship under sail :
the Jat. is 38 29' or 30' S., and Ion. 144 53' E. It will always
be desirable for vessels to get sight of this cape, before they run
far into the great bight for PORT PHILLIP ; and if the wind blows
strong from the southward, it will be unsafe to run without having
seen it. CAPE SCHANCK is also an excellent mark for ships
desirous to go into WESTERN PORT, of which it forms the west
side of the principal entrance ; but as there are many breakers
and shoals on that side, which extend almost to mid-channel, it
will be necessary to give the cape a wide berth, by keeping over
to PHILLIP ISLAND on the starboard hand."*
The shore is high and cliffy for 3 miles on each side of the and the shore
cape; it then trends N. W. J W. 5 leagues to POINT GRANT,
and is low and wooded, with a sandy beach, and reefs lying off
it to the extent of nearly a mile. Irregular soundings in 20
fathoms and upwards, are obtained at the distance of 2 leagues
from the shore, and no bottom is to be found with 30 fathoms of
line, 3 miles south from the rocks off the cape : but on account
of the heavy S. W. swell which beats violently upon its whole
extent, a ship should not approach it within a necessary distance.
To the eastward of the cape, the shore is principally rocky, and on each side,
extends in nearly a straight line to SANDY POINT, bearing E. by
N. \ N. distant 6 leagues. It should not be approached until
better known, as some charts place patches of covered rocks in
front of it, to the extent of 1 and 2 miles.
The French charts of 1802, make this cape in lat. 38 35' S.,
Ion. 1450|' E. from Greenwich.
CAPE PATERSON is a slight projection of the main, and bears CapePatersou.
from CAPE WOLLAMAI S. E. by E., distant 10 or 11 miles.
Breakers extend about half a mile from its west extremity,
and there is a small dry rock lying about half that distance from
its eastern part ; with 16 fathoms water at the distance of three
quarters of a mile from it to the southward.
On the east side of CAPE PATERSON is VENUS' BAY, about 3 Venus' Bay.
leagues across, and 4 or 5 miles in depth, with a shallow lagoon
at the bottom. It is quite exposed to the southward, and appears
* Flind. vol. i. p. 221 ; and Aust. Atlas, PI. XXI. View 14.
U
H6 AUSTRALIA BASS' STRAIT.
to have deep water close to its shores ; which are chiefly sandy,
with occasional rocky interruptions.
Cape Liptrap. CAPE LiPTRAP is a prominent steep headland, at the foot of a
range of hills which extend np wards of 7 leagues to the N. East-
ward, behind the high land of WILSON'S PROMONTORY. Captain
Flinders places it in lat. 38 53' S., Ion. 145 54J' E. ; with 32 to
38 fathoms water, 3 leagues off to the N. W., westward, and
S. W., on a bottom of brown sand and shells. The French
charts make it in lat. 38 57|' S., and Ion. 146 10J' E. from
Greenwich ; with soundings in 40 fathoms, 5 and 6 leagues off to
the W. by S., and no bottom at that depth, 5 miles distant to the
southward. A small rock is placed close to its extremity, by
Captain Grant, who made its lat. 38 49 J' S. ; and at 3 or 4 miles
on each side of it, are two other rocks lying near the shore ;
that to the eastward is in PATERSON'S BAY, and has 4 to 6
fathoms water close to it.
Paterson'sBay. PATERSON'S BAY lies round the east side of CAPE LIPTRAP,
and is bounded on the east by the shore of WILSON'S PROMON-
TORY. It is 6 or 7 leagues across, and 3 or 4 in depth ; with a
shoal lagoon behind the low sandy land at the head of it. There
are 40 to 50 fathoms water, on a bottom of sand and gravel,
across the mouth of this bay, which appears to have not only too
great depths for convenient anchorage, but is too much exposed
to the westward and southward to render the anchorage safe,
except in a case of necessity, with easterly winds. There is,
however, said to be good anchorage in its S. Eastern part, where
several small islands lie from 1 to 2 miles off the west side of
WILSON'S PROMONTORY, in an extent of 3 or 4 leagues.
Wilson's Pro- WILSON'S PROMONTORY, a bold headland, worthy of its situa-
tion as the southernmost cape of this vast Australian continent,
is formed by rugged mountains of considerable elevation, which
project 8 or 9 leagues from the low sandy land to the northward,
and may be seen upwards of 15 leagues from the deck of a ship
at sea. The mountains are tolerably wooded in their upper parts,
but towards the shore, they are nearly destitute of vegetation,
and fall down abruptly into the sea.* The southern extreme of
* " The height of this vast cape," says Captain Flinders, " though not such as
would be considered extraordinary by seamen, is yet strikingly so from being
AUSTRALIA BASS' STRAIT. 147
the promontory lies in lat. nearly 39 ITS.; but with respect to
its longitude, the accounts are various, and as follows :
Captain Flinders, in the Investigator 146 21' 0" E.
M. de Freycinet 146 40 22*
Lieutenant C. Jeffreys, in the Kangaroo 146 24 56
Mr. J. W. Armstrong, in the Volage 146 27 16
Mr. Horsburgh's E. I. Directory 146 24
The south extreme of WILSON'S PROMONTORY, of which this
spot is about the centre, and has a rocky islet close to it, extends
east and west upwards of a league; and then turns sharply
round to the northward, into a sandy bight which is formed on
each side of it. This prominent headland may otherwise be
easily recognised by the numerous islands which lie off it ; the
most conspicuous of which is an elevated conical lump of granite,
called RODONDO, situated 5% miles due south from its S. E, Isle Rodondo ;
extremity, and visible 10 leagues from a ship's deck at sea. It is
thinly clothed with vegetation in its upper part, but is so steep
all round, that even the seals find no resting places on its decli-
vities. A small rock, with a breaker on its east side, lies 1| dangers near it.
contrasted with the low, sandy land behind it. It is a lofty mass of hard granite,
about 20 miles long, by from 6 to 14 in breadth. The soil upon it is shallow and
barren ; though the brush-wood, dwarf gum-trees, and some smaller vegetation,
which mostly cover the rocks, give it a deceitful appearance to the eye of a distant
observer.
" Looking from the top of the promontory to the northward, there is seen a single
ridge of mountains, which come down, out of the interior country, in a southern
direction for the promontory ; but sloping off gradually to a termination, it leaves a
space of 12 or 16 miles of low, sandy land between them. This low land is nearly
intersected by a considerable lagoon on the west, and a large shoal bay, named
Corner Inlet, on the east side j and it seemed probable, that this insulated mass of
granite has been entirely surrounded by the sea at no very distant period of time.
There were no inhabitants on WILSON'S PROMONTORY ; but, upon the sandy neck,
some were seen near the borders of the inlets." Introduction to Flinders, pp. 1 15, 1 1 6.
The difference of longitude, 2 38', made by the French, between the north
point of KING'S ISLAND and WILSON'S PROMONTORY, is 11' more than was found by
Captain Flinders, and 29' more than by Lieutenant Jeffreys. By applying the
French difference of meridians to the north point of KING'S ISLAND by Captain
Flinders, WILSON'S PROMONTORY would lie in 146 32'; but this is probably about
or 7 miles more than its correct position, which would appear to be ill 146 25'
or 26' E.
148
AUSTRALIA -BASS' STRAIT.
Remarkable
caverns ;
Anchorage
Tide near Wil- mile N. E. from the summit of RODONDO, with apparently a
tory. clear channel between them ; but on account of the rapidity of
the Tides, which are sometimes found to run here at the rate of
4 and 5 miles an hour, its neighbourhood should be avoided during
light winds. The flood comes from the eastward.
Nearer to the promontory, and fronting its west and S. W.
Glennie's Isles 5 sides, lie GLENNiE's ISLES, a conspicuous range, occupying an
extent of 3 or 5 leagues in a north and south direction, with deep
water close to their rocky shores. They are eight in number,
with some smaller rocks scattered among them ; and have scarcely
a sign of vegetation upon their almost bare white surfaces. The
southernmost, or that which lies nearest RODONDO, is of a round
form, and is rendered remarkable by two dark caverns of con-
siderable size, situated on its south side. GLENNIE'S ISLES are
small, with the exception of one, which is represented on Flinders'
chart, as being nearly 3 miles in length north and south, and about
half a mile across ; it is said to afford good anchorage round its
N. E. side. By the chart of Mr. Barallier, who surveyed this
part of the coast in 1801, the largest island of the cluster is not
more than 1 1 mile in length, and is situated immediately off the
first sandy beach round the west side of the promontory. Here-
abouts the French charts* place a run of fresh water, issuing from
the high land into the sea, with 24 fathoms water abreast of it,
at less than li mile from the shore ; but our knowledge of this
part being very imperfect, and the accounts of it at variance witli
each other, its navigation should not be attempted in bad weather ;
and must at all times be accompanied with caution.
The Magnetic Variation off WILSON'S PROMONTORY, is about
8| E. ; and will be more with the head westward, than in the
opposite direction.
SEALER'S COVE, on the east shore of WILSON'S PROMONTORY,
and distant 3 leagues from its S. E. extreme, is in lat. 39 4 S.,
and contains room enough for small vessels only. It is not more
than a mile in extent, and contains 3 fathoms water in its deepest
part. The entrance is somewhat more than half that width, and
lies exposed to the N. Eastward ; from which quarter, however,
Fresh water:
Variation.
Sealer's Cove
Freyc. Atlas, PI. 11.
AUSTRALIA BASS' STRAIT. 149
the wind seldom blows with sufficient strength to raise a heavy
sea. Fresh water is abundant here ; and, on account of the Fresh water;
perfect shelter which the cove affords from all western winds, it
is much used by the small vessels and boats that frequent the
neighbouring islands for seals.
" The rise of tide was found," by Mr. Bass, "to be 10 or 11 Tides ;
feet, and high water to take place at 10^ hours after the moon
passed over the meridian. The flood, after sweeping S. West-
ward along the great beach from CAPE HOWE, strikes off for the
SEAL ISLANDS and the promontory, and then runs westward, past
it, at the rate of 2 and 3 miles an hour : the ebb tide sets to the
eastward."*
On the south side of SEALER'S COVE, the shore forms a large Coast on
sandy bight, which is interrupted near the middle by a rocky pro-
jection, and is quite exposed to the southward and eastward. To
the northward of the cove, the shore trends N. | W. for about each side.
8 miles, into the bottom of another sandy bight ; off the N. E.
point of which are two small islands, lying close to the shore.
This bight contains good shelter from all western and northerly
winds, but has not been sounded.
SEAL ISLES are four small, barren islands lying in a cluster Seal Isles,
about 3 leagues X. E. by E. from SEALER'S COVE, and 7 or 8
miles S. E. \ E. from the projection last mentioned. The northern-
most of these islands, which is represented to be also the largest,
was visited by Mr. Bass, their enterprising discoverer, who found
it to be "about \\ mile in circuit, ascending gradually from the
shore, to a hill of moderate elevation in the centre. There was
neither tree nor shrub upon it; but the surface was mostly
covered with tufts of coarse grass, amongst which the seals had
everywhere made paths, and the petrels their burrows. "t
These islands are placed by the French, between 5 and 6
miles from SEALER'S COVE, and 4 or 5 miles S. E. from the next
point to the northward of it.
CORNER INLET, situated 7 leagues to the northward of SEALER'S Comer inlet;
COVE, is an extensive shoal bay, in the low land north of WIL-
SON'S PROMONTORY, and nearly joins a shoal lagoon which com-
* Flind. Introd.vol. i. p. 116. t Ibid.
150
Corner Inlet ;
AUSTRALIA BASS' STRAIT.
Fresh water ;
Tide;
Shoal off the
entrance.
municates with the head of PATERSON'S BAY. Mr. Bass, who
discovered this inlet in 1798, describes it as "little else than a
large flat, the greater part of it being dry at low water. There
is a long shoal on the outside of the entrance, which is to be
avoided by keeping close to the shore of the promontory ; but
when the tide is out, the depth, except in holes, nowhere exceeds
2| fathoms. A vessel drawing 12 or 13 feet may lie safely
under the high land, from which there are some large runs of
most excellent water. The Tide rises a foot less here than in
SEALER'S COVE, and flows an hour later ; arising, probably, from
the flood leaving it in an eddy, by setting past, and not into the
inlet."*
The entrance to CORNER INLET is about 1| mile across, and is
open to the eastward. The shoal which lies off it appears to
occupy an extent of more than 4 miles in a N. W. and S. E.
direction, and is detached from the land ; leaving a channel on its
west side, about a mile wide, and 2| to 3 fathoms deep ; and
another on its north side, of twice that width, but with an unknown
depth, probably not exceeding the former.
Long Beach ; The LONG NORTHERN BEACH commences at CORNER INLET,
and extends in a concave sweep, upwards of 60 leagues, to CAPE
HOWE, without meeting more than very slight interruption in its
long and uniform progress. The land, for some miles behind
it, is low, sandy, and partly covered with small trees ; at the
back of which, rise some elevated ranges of mountains that are
visible in clear weather, at the distance of 20, and perhaps 30
leagues These mountains approach the high land of WILSON'S
PROMONTORY and CAPE LIPTRAP, within 6 leagues ; after which,
they retire several leagues farther from the coast, and again
approach it towards CAPE HOWE and the RAM HEAD ; which is
a steep projection, bearing from the cape S. 71 W. distant 22
miles, with a shoal lagoon round its east side. In clear weather,
this high land is visible long before the low sandy coast ; though
no part of it appears to be sufficiently remarkable to be con-
sidered a conspicuous object.
At the distance of 7 leagues E. N. E. from CORNER INLET, the
and mountains
behind it.
Ram Head.
Flind. Introd. vol. i. p. 117.
AUSTRALIA BASS' STRAIT. 151
beach projects somewhat from the usual coast line, and marks the Shoals near
eastern termination of some shoal banks which front the inter-
mediate space, to the distance of 2 and 3 miles ; having openings
between them, which lead to several shoal inlets through the
beach to the northward. The remainder of this space appears to
be free from dangers beyond half a mile ; and at 5 leagues to the
X. Eastward of the last mentioned projection, Captain Flinders
found 1 1 fathoms water, at the distance of 2 or 3 miles from the
shore. The French navigators under Captain Baudin, in 1802,
place 67 fathoms (English) at the distance of 10 leagues off the
middle of the beach ; but 4 leagues farther out, they could find no
bottom at 92 fathoms, until the islands off WILSON'S PROMON-
TORY were approached. The soundings deepen rapidly towards Soundings,
the RAM HEAD and CAPE HOWE, both of which are bold, and
clear of dangers.
The LONG BEACH should be avoided by a ship using BASS' Long Beach to
STRAIT, and attention be paid to the directions given in pages
94 and 98 ; as gales often come on suddenly from the S. E. and
southward, and in the great bight which is formed between CAPE
HOWE and WILSON'S PROMONTORY, there is no port capable of
affording shelter to a ship of burden.
The direction of the wind in BASS' STRAIT, must not always
be considered as the criterion by which to judge of its direction
and strength to the eastward of FURNEAUX'S ISLANDS ; where it
is frequently found to blow from nearly the opposite quarter, and
is usually very variable. Thick weather accompanying a breeze
from the S. Eastward, especially in the winter months, from May
to September, is generally the precursor of a gale, and should be
regarded accordingly.
FURNEAUX'S ISLANDS stretch across the east entrance of BASS' Fumeaux's
STRAIT, between WILSON'S PROMONTORY and the X. E. cape of
VAN DIEMEN'S LAND, and occupy an extent of about 40 leagues.
From their primitive formation of hard granite, and the peculiar
manner in which they lie, as a connecting chain, these islands
would appear to have been the upper part of a range of hills
which once joined the two lands, before a combination of natural
causes effected their disunion, and produced the opening which
now bears the name of BASS' STRAIT. That such was the
152
Furneaujc's
Islands.
Tide,
Current,
and dangers
amongst them
Sir Roger
Curtis' Isles ;
AUSTRALIA BAS S' STRAIT.
original formation of this part, or at least its disposition a few
ages ago, appears extremely probable on inspecting the chart ;
as also that WILSON'S PROMONTORY and CAPE LIPTRAP were
formerly insulated, but have since been rejoined to the high
mountains behind them, by the S. E. gales of winter throwing up
the sand and loose earth which now form the LONG NORTHERN
BEACH. These points, however, can have little effect upon the
present navigation of the coast, which is the object exclusively
under consideration ; and they are merely alluded to thus
slightly, for the purpose of drawing the attention of those navi-
gators and scientific men, who may possess inclination and
opportunity to elucidate a subject so interesting to geography and
science.
The Tide runs strong between FURNEAUX'S ISLANDS, flowing
from the eastward, and ebbing in the opposite direction. The
stream of tide in the Strait, being thus confined within compara-
tively narrow limits, in its progress amongst them ; and these
limits being also the only outlet for the stream of Current, which
is forced into the Strait from the westward, by the prevailing
winds there ; no sandy shoals or banks are met with in their
vicinity, except a few on the eastern side of GREAT ISLAND,
which are quite removed beyond the influence of either. Some
few scattered rocks, with deep water close to them, have, how-
ever, been met with occasionally, and will be severally mentioned
in their proper places.
SIR ROGER CURTIS' ISLES consist of a small group of three
conspicuous islands, one only of which is of any considerable
size. It is 2 miles in length N. E. and S. W., and a mile broad,
with a high round summit on its S. Western part, which is visible
long before the lower part of the island, and may be seen at the
distance of 1 1 leagues from a ship's deck in clear weather. It
makes in form of a broad round hummock, and is placed by Cap-
tain Flinders 17 miles S. E. \ S. from RODONDO, or in lat.
39 30J' S., Ion. 146 37|' E. A high pyramidal rock lies 2
miles S. \ E. from the summit, and another 1^ mile S. E. \ E.
from it, with deep water close to them, except off the south side
of the last, where there is said to be a small rock, at the distance
of a quarter of a mile. No other dangers are known to exist
AUSTRALIA BASS' STRAIT. 153
Furneaux's
ubout these islands, and they have frequently been approached Islands.
close by many ships in passing.
H. M. Ship Volage steered close to the south side of the
cluster, in October 1826, and made CURTIS' ISLAND 3 10' east
from CAPE OTWAY, by chronometer, and 4 31 1' west from
SYDNEY COVE (PORT JACKSON), or in Ion. 146 43f ' E. from
Greenwich.
The French charts of 1802,* place this island 19 miles S.37E.
from RODONDO, and mark 44 English fathoms at the distance of Soundings near
7 leagues to the southward of it. Captain Flinders had 40
fathoms, coarse sand and shells, the same distance off to the
S. E. by S., and 45 fathoms at 7 or 8 miles to the S. W. ; but the
soundings cannot be taken as a guide, in approaching this land
during the night, as 35 fathoms have been found 20 miles from
it to the westward, on a bottom by no means regular.
DEVIL'S TOWER, known also by the name of FORTIFICATION Devii'sTower.
ISLAND, lies 3 leagues N. 41 E. from the summit of CURTIS'
ISLAND, on Captain Flinders' chart,t which places another island
of less extent, a mile from it to the N. E. It is a small but con-
spicuous lump of bare rock, frequented only by birds, seals, and
their pursuers, and appears to have no dangers in its immediate
vicinity.
MONCUR'S ISLES, the northernmost of FURNEAUX'S ISLANDS, Moncur'sisie*.
are three in number, according to Captain Flinders, and lie near
each other, at the distance of 6 or 7 miles east from RODONDO.
They are almost bare rocks, and appear bold and free from dan-
gers ; but ships seldom approach them in passing, as a preference
is given to the channel between CURTIS' ISLES and KENT'S
GROUPS.
CROCODILE ROCK is dangerously situated nearly in mid- Crocodile
channel, in a line between RODONDO and CURTIS' ISLAND. It is
just awash, or rather below the water's surface, and the surf
over it is said to be more easily distinguishable in fine weather,
than when the sea around is much agitated by a fresh breeze.
During high tides, it is also probably well covered, and may not
always break.
Freyc, Atlas, PI 6. f Aust. Atlas, PI. VI.
X
154 AUSTRALIA- BASS' STRAIT.
Furneaux's
islands. Mr. Horsburgh, in his East India Directory for 1826,* states,
Crocodile The Castle of Good Hope, Captain M'Askill, 7th of February
1 803, running at the rate of 9 miles per hour, in order to get
by the Castle through BASS' STRAIT before night, saw when entering the channel
of Good Hope:,
between SIR ROGER CURTIS ISLES and RODONDO, breakers
a-head very close ; the helm was put down, sail instantly reduced,
and the ship cleared the rock about half a cable's length, upon
which the sea foamed with breakers. It appeared about 12 or
14 yards in extent where the sea broke, but has probably a
greater base ; and although a part of this rock is only 2 feet under
water, the sea perhaps does not break on it at high tides when
the weather is fine. From RODONDO, it bears about S. E. \ E. 7
miles, and from SIR ROGER CURTIS' ISLES N. W. \ W., distant
by the Cato ; about 1 1 miles, and it is steep to. Captain Park, of the Cato,
3d of April 1803, saw also the CROCODILE ROCK, and passed
within a mile of it, in 45 fathoms water, the sea then breaking
high upon it : he states that it bears S. E. by E. 2| leagues from
the ROUND ISLAND, or RODONDO, and 5 leagues S. E. by S. from
WILSON'S PROMONTORY."
by the Wei- According to the same writer, the CROCODILE ROCK was also
seen by the Wellington, January 25th, 1816 ; " when it bore
S. by E. 5 or 5J miles, CURTIS' ISLAND bore S. E. \ S.4 leagues,
RODONDO W. N. W. 7 or 8 miles, easternmost of the MONCUR
ISLANDS south, DEVIL'S TOWER S. E. \ S., and HOGAN'S GROUP
E. by N."t The situation here attempted to be shown by the
Wellington is extremely uncertain, as none of that ship's
bearings agree with the account rendered either by the Castle of
Good Hope or the Cato ; nor does it seem practicable to recon-
cile them on the chart of this strait, by Captain Flinders ; which,
although perhaps a little in error in this part, on account of the
various materials of which it is constructed, is nevertheless suffi-
ciently correct to answer the common purposes of navigation.
This danger was seen December 3d, 1802, by the French corvette
by the Geo- Geographe, Captain N. Baudin, who passed within half a mile of
its east side, and places it nearly 8 miles S. E. by S. from
RODONDO, and 1 1 \ miles N. 38 W. from CURTIS' ISLAND ; those
Vol. i. pp. 100, 101, These bearings are by compass,
f Horsburgh, vol. ii. p. 565.
AUSTRALIA BASS' STRAIT. 155
Furneauje's
islands being laid down in the French chart bearing S. E, | S. islands.
and N. W. N. from each other, distant 6^ leagues.* No
soundings are given near this situation ; and at noon, the ship
being within 5 miles of the breakers, bearing west, made their
lat. 39 24i 7 S.
Some navigatorsf have reported this rock to lie 1 1 miles S. | E. and other
from RODONDO ; but there appears every reason to conclude it
will be found as stated by the Castle of Good Hope and the
Cato ; for Captain Flinders passed 2 miles S. W. of the last-
mentioned position of it without seeing any breakers, and in that
situation had soundings 45 fathoms, on a coral bottom.^
No other covered dangers are known to exist between CURTIS'
ISLAND and WILSON'S PROMONTORY, and the CROCODILE ROCK
has frequently been passed with safety, by borrowing within 2 or Directions for
3 miles of the islands on either hand ; but in the night, 'or during p '
thick weather, it will be prudent for a stranger, who is desirous
of clearing the Strait, to obtain a sight of CURTIS' ISLAND, and
pass on its south side ; as its high round summit and the two
pyramidal rocks to the southward of it, are remarkable objects,
by which its identity cannot be mistaken.
HOGAN'S GROUP is a cluster of 5 or 6 rocky islands ofHogan's
moderate height, lying close to each other, with some little vege-
tation on their upper parts. The largest and most elevated is in
the middle, and, according to the chart of Captain Flinders, is
distant between 9 and 10 leagues due east from RODONDO.
Freyc. Atlas, PI. 11.
f Mr. Pritchard, R.N., commanding H. M. Storeship Dromedary, in 1809; and
Lieutenant C. Jeffreys, R.N., probably the same account.
J This able navigator says, "A reef is mentioned by Captain Grant, as lying to
the southward between RODONDO and MONCUR'S ISLES ; and a rock, level with the
water, was seen in the same situation by the ships Cato and Castle of Good Hope,
from which last it received the appropriate name of Crocodile Rock. This also was
seen by Mr. Bass, and laid down in its relative situation ; but in the Investigator,
I was not sufficiently near to get sight of this important danger." Flinders,
vol. i. p. 223.
This position appears to be about 3 miles too far to the southward, according to
observations made in H. M. Surveying sloop Bathurst, in November 1820, which
show HOGAN'S GROUP bearing between N.34|and 59 W., when CURTIS' ISLAND
bore S. 63 W., DEVIL'S TOWER S. 74 W., and the N. E. extreme of KENT'S
156 AUSTRALIA BASS' STRAIT.
Pitrneaux's
islands. No dangers are known to exist near this cluster ; and th
soundings around it appear very regular, in about 35 fathoms.
Kent'sGroups: KENT'S GROUPS are two clusters of islands lying near each
other, at 7 and 10 leagues eastward of CURTIS' ISLES, and are
conspicuous objects from a ship passing between GREAT ISLAND
and WILSON'S PROMONTORY. The eastern, or outer group, is
The large ^he mos ^ extensive, and consists of two principal islands, which
cluster, are rocky, irregular, and steep ; and sufficiently elevated to be
visible 10 or 12 leagues from the deck of a ship in clear weather ;
the others are mere rocks, lying near the N. W. side of the wes-
ternmost island, and there is one detached a long mile from the
N. E. extreme of the easternmost.
Captain Flinders, who discovered these islands in 1798, made
the centre of the large group in lat. 39 29' S., Ion. 147 17' E.,
and sailed through the channel which separates them. This officer
says, " The channel is about 3 miles lone;, and a full mile in width ;
and channel J
through them ; is free from danger, and so deep that our hand-line could not reach
the bottom. There are two sandy coves on the east, and one on
the west side of the channel, where small vessels might find
shelter, if there were any inducement to visit these steep, barren,
granitic masses of rock. Above the cliffs we could occasionally
perceive a brown-looking vegetation of brushwood, and here
and there a few starved gum-trees ; but there was neither bird
nor quadruped to enliven the dreary scene."*
According to a partial survey of these islands by Lieutenant
John Murray, in 1801, the westernmost island, which is about 4
large GROUP S. 50| E. On the same day, at noon, the observed latitude was
39 12$' S. ; KENT'S GROUP bore about S. 14 E., and HOGAN'S GROUP S. 84 W.
H. M. Ship Tamar, Captain J. J. G. Bremer, C.B., passing through the Strait
from the westward, on the 24th of July 1824, observed the lat. at noon 3918'S.,
with the north extreme of KENT'S GROUP bearing due south, and the body of HOGAN'S
W. by N. All these observations tend to show that Captain Flinders' position of
the latter group, is 2 or 3 miles too far to the southward.
* " KENT'S large GROUP is not, however, so barren and deserted as appearances
bespoke. It has since been ascertained that, in the central parts of the larger islands,
there are vallies in which trees of a fair growth make part of a tolerably vigorous
vegetation, and where kangaroos of a small kind were rather numerous ; some seals
also were found upon the rocks, and fresh water was not difficult to be procured in
certain seasons." Introduction to Flinders, vol. i. p. 144.
AUSTRALIA BASS' STRAIT. 157
Fumeaux't
miles in length nearly north and south, is in several parts only a islands.
quarter of a mile wide ; and in one place, near the middle, is almost
divided by a very low narrow neck of loose stones. To the
northward of this isthmus, and on the east side of the island, is
situated WESTERN COVE, the only sandy bight it possesses ; the WestemCove,
remaining shores being high, rocky, and inaccessible, with deep
water close to them. WESTERN COVE is about a mile across in
a north and south direction, and is half as deep ; having a small
rocky islet half a cable's length off its north point, and some
small rocks lying much nearer to the south point. The depth
across the entrance is 8 to 12 fathoms, which shoals gradually
towards the beach, but deepens quickly to the eastward, towards
the middle of the channel, where the soundings are 28 and 30
fathoms, on a very regular bottom, nearly to the opposite shore.
Vessels lying in WESTERN COVE must have one cable to the
shore ; as the prevailing winds blow in strong flurries over the
high land ; and outside the line between the heads of the cove,
the tide runs with great strength, flowing from the northward.
The island which forms the east side of this passage, is the
largest and highest of the group ; and about a cable's length to
the northward of its steep N. W. point, lies a small rocky islet,
with 28 and 30 fathoms water close to it. Like the former, this
island is also steep and inaccessible from the sea, except at a
small sandy cove on its S. W. side, just within the southern Eastern Cove ;
entrance of the channel which separates them. This cove is
much smaller than the other, but is nearly as deep, and would
afford good shelter to a small vessel, from any wind; a com-
mander must, however, bear in mind that the winds which prevail
in winter are westerly, and that gales sometimes blow strong
from the S. Eastward during summer. The depth of water
across the entrance of this bight is 10 to 20 fathoms, shoaling
gradually to the beach, and increasing quickly towards the chan-
nel ; where the tide runs very strong, and should not be encoun-
tered by boats while it sets to windward. The water is deeper
near the beach here than in WESTERN COVE ; and in both of
them the depth is greater near their points of entrance than
towards their termination. The south point of EASTERN COVE
is a narrow strip of rocky land, with 20 fathoms water close to its
158 AUSTRALIA- BASS' STRAIT.
Fttrneawr's
islands. extremity, and a bank of half that depth extending from its S. W.
side, about a quarter of the distance across to the opposite western
shore. This is the narrowest part of the channel, which, according
to Mr. Murray's survey, is here only half a mile wide ; and in
no part does it appear to have any dangers that do not show
themselves above water.
In approaching this channel, either from the north or south, the
Tides must be narrowly watched, on account of their strength;
and small vessels should be prepared to encounter strong gusts
of wind, when it blows off the land.
Kent's small KENT'S small GROUP is separated from the large cluster by a
channel about 5 miles wide, which is not known to contain any
dangers. Captain Flinders passed through it in the Francis
schooner, when he discovered these islands in 1798, and observes,
" This small cluster consists of a steep island, near 1 mile in
length, of two smaller round islets, and two or three rocks ; one
Judgment o f which obtained the name of Judgment Rock, from its resem-
blance to an elevated seat. We passed close to the east side of
this group, at 6 o'clock, and perceived that the Tide, which before
had set to leeward, was then turned to the east : the moon had
just before passed the meridian."*
JUDGMENT ROCK is placed by Captain Flinders in lat. 39
31 1' S., Ion. 147 3' E., or between 10 and 11 miles N.86iW.
from the south extremity of KENT'S largest ISLAND: the other
islands and rocks of this small cluster, lie around it at the distance
of 1 to 1^ mile, on all sides except the N. W., and appear free
and soundings from dangers beyond a quarter of a mile. Soundings in 33
fathoms, gravel and sand, were found by their discoverer, at the
distance of 6 or 7 miles S. E. from the largest island ; and the
French ship Ge"ographe found 42 fathoms, at the same distance
to the southward of it.
Pyramid ; The PYRAMID is an elevated flat-topped rock of small dimen-
sions, through which there is a chasm. On the chart of Captain
Flinders, it lies 17 miles S. 19 E. from JUDGMENT ROCK, or in
lat. 39 47J 7 S., and Ion. 147 11^'E. ; but that navigator having
fixed its position with the very inadequate means he possessed in
* Flind. Introd. vol. i. p. 124.
AUSTRALIA -BASS' STRAIT. 159
the Francis schooner, Captain P. P. King has, by more recent islands.
observations, ascertained its true situation tobeinlat. 3952-f' S.,
and Ion. 147 11 J' E.* M. Freycinet places it in 39 51 J' S., and
25 miles due south from the eastern rock of KENT'S large GROUP.
A sunken reef extends upwards of half a mile from the south
side of the PYRAMID, but it is otherwise safe to approach ; having
38 fathoms water between 4 and 5 miles off to the N. W., and soundings
35 fathoms at the same distance to the S. S. W. Four or five near "'
leagues farther south, the depths are 30 and 28 fathoms, on a
bottom of sand and shells.
GREAT ISLAND, the largest of FURNEAUX'S ISLANDS, occupies Great island ;
an extent of 12 or 13 leagues in a N. by W. and S. by E. direc-
tion, and preserves an average width of 3 to 4 leagues. The
principal ridge upon it is high, barren, and mountainous, pre-
senting a bold, abrupt front to the prevailing westerly winds, and
sloping to low land on the eastern shore, which is lined with a
sandy beach. The shape of this island is not precisely known,
nor is it safe to approach very close, until better explored. Cap-
tain Flinders places its northern extreme in lat. 39 42i' S., Ion. its north point;
147 53i' E., and had 12 fathoms, sandy bottom, between 4 and
5 miles to the W. S. W. ; but should this land partake of the
error discovered by Captain King in the position of the PYRAMID,
its true situation will be nearer 39 47' S. By M. Freycinet it
is placed in 39 41 ' S. The extremity is sandy, with two small
rocks near it, and slopes gradually into the sea, from an elevated
round hill behind it.
From the north extreme of GREAT ISLAND, its sandy shore N. W. point ;
trends W. by S. S. 4 miles, to a point of a similar description,
off which dry and covered rocks extend about a mile. This pro-
jection forms the narrowest part of the channel between GREAT
ISLAND and KENT'S largest GROUP, the nearest part of which
bears from it N. W. by W. \ W., and has several dry rocks and
covered dangers in the intermediate space of 25 miles.t
King, vol. ii. p. 382.
t Captain Flinders, who passed within 2 miles of this part of GREAT ISLAND in
1198, remarks, " This northern land has some ridges of sandy-looking hills, extending
north and south between the two shores ; and they are sufficiently high to be visible
10 leagues from a ship's deck in clear weather. On the west side of the north point,
160 AUSTRALIA BASS' STRAIT.
f*ut*netiux' s
islands. The N. W. side of GREAT ISLAND contains several small sandy
N. w. and bights, in a space of 9 or 10 miles, and is fronted by rocks above
and under water, to the distance of a mile, as far as the island's
western extremity, which may be seen 10 leagues off at sea, and
is surrounded by a reef.
s.w.sboresof The S. W. side of GREAT ISLAND occupies an extent of 10
in ' or 11 leagues, but is very little known to navigators. Several
small islands are laid down in the charts, to the distance of 4 or
5 miles from it ; together with one piece of land more consider-
able in size and elevation than the others, which Captain Flinders
Hummock's called HUMMOCK'S ISLAND, but entertained some doubt as to its
ind ' separation from GREAT ISLAND. According to that enterprising
officer, it occupies an extent of more than 7 miles in a N. E. and
S. W. direction, and is from 2 to 4 miles wide ; its rocky shores
rising on all sides to several hills, which attain the height of 500
or 600 feet above the level of the sea, and may be seen at the
distance of 8 leagues from a ship's deck in clear weather. Its
centre is placed nearly 5 leagues due south from the west point
of GREAT ISLAND.
About 4 miles S. E. by S, from the south extreme of HUM-
and an islet to MOCK'S ISLAND, lies a small rocky islet, from which a reef projects
the_southward j. Q ^ e eas t war< i anc j northward, and probably joins them together.
Captain Flinders anchored in 5 fathoms water, coarse sandy
bottom, about a mile round its north side, and found there was
shelter from eastern winds ; but the bottom being everywhere
foul, and there being no escape in case of a shift of wind from
the westward, be again put to sea. At the distance of half a
mile from the west side of this rocky islet, the depth of water is
10 fathoms.
East shore of The east side of GREAT ISLAND extends S. 20 E. from its
nd ' north point, in a straight line of sandy beach for 6 leagues,
Patriarchs, towards three remarkable peaks called the PATRIARCHS, which
the hills come nearly down to the water ; but on the east side there is 2 or 3 miles
of flat land between their feet and the shore. The small trees and brushwood
which partly covered the hills, seemed to shoot out from sand and rock ; and if the
vallies and low land within be not better than what appeared from the sea, the
northern part of this great island is sterile indeed." Introduction to Flinders,
vol. i. p. 185.
AUSTRALIA BASS' STRAIT. 161
Furneaux's
rise conspicuously from low sandy land, and are detached from islands.
the high barren mountains to the westward, by a plain of the
same description. These peaks lie nearly in a line with each
other, N. E. by E. \ E. and S. W. by W. $ W. ; the lowest is
situated in the middle, and the highest lies 1 1 mile to the east-
ward of it, sloping down from a conical shaped summit, to the
very low sandy land which forms the east extremity of the island.
To the southward of this projection is a low unexplored shore,
which should not be approached.
BABEL ISLES, so named by Captain Flinders, from the dis- Babel Isles,
cordant and various notes of their innumerable feathered tenants,
lie off the east extremity of GREAT ISLAND, and consist of one
principal island about 3 miles in length, and two rocky islets
lying off its S. E. side. The former is partially covered with
tufted grass and brushwood, and has a remarkable pyramidal
hill near its north end, which is almost separated from the rest
of the island by a deep notch. This pyramid bears from the
eastern PATRIARCH E. by N. \ N. distant 6 miles. The inter-
mediate space contains a small dry rock surrounded with breakers,
nearly midway, and is otherwise so contracted by shoal spits of
sand, which project from each side, that it seems doubtful whether
the water will be found deep enough in any part of the channel
to admit a ship. The other islands of this cluster are low, rocky,
and very small, and lie about half a mile from each other, without
any safe passage among them, except for boats ; but they are
safe to approach on the east side, having 10 fathoms water at the
distance of half a mile. The whole are much frequented by
shags, sooty petrels, and other sea-birds, and were formerly the
resort of numerous seals.
The SISTERS are two high islands, nearly equal in size and Sisters.
elevation, lying from 1 to 5 miles off the north end of GREAT
ISLAND, and visible at the distance of 10 leagues from a ship's
deck in clear weather. They are upwards of a mile in diameter,
with rather uneven surfaces, which do not boast of much vegeta-
tion, but harbour numerous sea-birds. Breakers extend a short
distance off the north end of both islands ; and there is a small
detached rock lying about a mile to the S. E. of the northern-
most. The other is joined to GREAT ISLAND by a covered reef;
Y
162 AUSTRALIA BASS' STRAIT.
islands an( l much rippling wafer has also been observed between the two
SISTERS, which are situated about 3 miles apart.
Craggy island. CRAGGY ISLAND is a small cliffy piece of land between GREAT
ISLAND and KENT'S GROUPS, and has a sunken reef projecting a
long mile from its north side. It is situated 10 miles due west
from the inner SISTER, and nearly 4 leagues N. 15 W. from the
west extremity of GREAT ISLAND. Several sunken rocks are
said to lie between CRAGGY ISLAND and the north side of GREAT
ISLAND, which render great caution necessary in entering this
channel, even in the finest weather ; as the sea is then not suffi-
ciently rough to break over the dangers.
Tide. The Tide flows from the eastward amongst these islands, at
the rate of a mile and a half an hour, rises from 3 to 6 feet, and
makes high water about 10| hours after the moon passes over the
meridian.
Wright'sRock. WRIGHT'S ROCK is in a line between CRAGGY ISLAND and the
N. E. extremity of KENT'S large GROUP, at the distance of 6
miles from the former ; and although small, it is sufficiently con-
spicuous to be visible several miles from a ship's deck. Captain
Flinders passed near enough to its south side in the night, to hear
the growling of the seals upon it, and had 30 fathoms water, on a
coarse bottom : but he must then have been very close to a
sunken danger, which was seen in that direction by the brig
Endeavour, in 1817, and which renders the passage to the south-
ward of the rock very unsafe. There are soundings in 28 fathoms,
gravel and small stones, 3 miles to the N. W. by N. of WRIGHT'S
ROCK, and 29 fathoms on a coarse sandy bottom, 5 miles off to
the N. E. by E. This depth continues for 1 1 leagues farther in
the same direction, when it gradually increases, and the bottom
becomes fine sand.
Endeavour ENDEAVOUR ROCK was discovered in 1817, by Captain Ham-
Rock
mant, in the brig of this name, and is represented by him to lie
" in a line between CRAGGY ISLAND and WRIGHT'S ROCK, about
a third of the distance from the latter, or in lat. 39 38' S., Ion.
147 35' E. When the south* end of KENT'S GROUP bore W.
* The north end must here be meant, or the bearings, which are magnetic, will
not agree on the chart.
AUSTRALIA BASS' STRAIT. 163
by N., CRAGGY ISLAND S. S. E., and WRIGHT'S ROCK S. W. by islands.
S., saw a reef with two small rocks on it, visible at the rebound
of the sea, (being then low water) bearing S. f W."* This and other
danger, and others which are reported to exist about CRAGGY n eafit!
ISLAND and the northern shore of GREAT ISLAND, render great
caution necessary in passing through the channels to the south-
ward of WRIGHT'S ROCK ; but the space of nearly 4 leagues
between it and KENT'S GROUP appears free from obstructions,
and is frequently used by borrowing towards the latter. The
soundings in this part must not be depended upon as a guide,
during the night, or in thick weather, as they are deeper close
to some of the dangers, and to the northward of them, than at the
distance of several miles to the eastward.
CAPE BARREN ISLAND, one of FURNEAUX'S GROUP, extends Cape Barren
east and west 20 miles, according to the chart of Captain Flinders,
and is from 3 to 5 miles wide. It is high, rocky, and irregular,
and has a peak on its eastern part, which is elevated about 1200
feet above the sea, and may be seen at the distance of 12 leagues
from the deck of a ship in clear weather. This piece of land is
separated from the southern part of GREAT ISLAND, by a strait
from 3 to 7 miles wide, which is full of small islands and rocks and small
that have never been properly explored. The easternmost of north ride.'
these is a low island, 3 or 4 miles long, with a hill in the middle;
it is the largest of the cluster, and from its north end a sandy
shoal projects 5 miles to the E. N. E., and appears to be very
little below the surface of the water. From the eastern elbow
of this sand, a three fathom bank extends to the S. E. and south-
ward for 4 miles, when it curves round to the westward, and is
joined to the south end of the island from which it commenced,
leaving a narrow but very doubtful passage between it and CAPE
BARREN ISLAND to the southward.t The water is deep close to
* Horsburgh, vol. i. p. 101.
f Captain Flinders, who discovered this shoal, in the Norfolk sloop, 7th of Janu-
ary 1799, says : " The wind being nearly at east, with a thick haze, we steered
to pass between CAPE BARREN and GREAT ISLAND. At 5 o'clock breakers were
seen 2 miles to the north, though no bottom could be found at 17 fathoms; at 6,
however, we fell suddenly into 3 fathoms ; but hoping to find a sufficient depth for
the sloop round the island which lies in the opening, stood on till the soundings
164 AUSTRALIA BASS' STRAIT.
Furneuux's
Islands, the edge of this shoal, and of that which fronts the N. E. side of
CAPE BARREN ISLAND to the extent of 1^ mile.
Cape Barren. CAPE BARREN, the east extremity of an island of the same
name, is placed in lat. 40 25 ' S., Ion. 14825' E., by Captain
Flinders, who says, " The extremity of the cape is a low point,
which runs out 2 miles east from the high land ; and off this
point lies a flat, rocky islet and a peaked rock. The shore is
sandy on each side of the Cape point : it trends N. 40 W. for about
5 miles on one side, and S. 49 W., past two sandy bights on
the other, to a rocky projection on which are two whitish cones,
shaped like rhinoceros' horns."* The peak on this part of CAPE
BARREN ISLAND bears from the cape W. | S., distant 5 miles ;
and being detached from its western part by low land, is the most
remarkable object by which this projection may be known. The
water is deep close to the rocks, which extend about a mile from
its extremity.
The Magnetic Variation off this cape, in 1799, was about
9 E., with a ship's head north or south.
Cape Franklin. CAPE FRANKLIN, the west extremity of CAPE BARREN ISLAND,
is situated 19 miles nearly due west from the last-mentioned
cape, or in lat 40 24' S., Ion. 148 0|' E. ; and being defended
by several detached rocks both above and below the water's
surface, to the extent of more than 3 miles, it is dangerous to
approach within that distance in a large ship. These dangers
lie mostly off the south end of the largest CHAPPELL ISLE, and
extend to the distance of 3 miles from each. Between this cape
and the high south extreme of GREAT ISLAND, distant 5 miles to
the N. N. E., are many small islands and rocks, which render
the passage unsafe until better explored.
Chappell Isles. CHAPPELL ISLES lie between 1 and 4 leagues to the westward
diminished to 9 feet, and breakers were seen all round a-head, from beam to beam.
It was then near sunset, and the breeze right aft ; but whilst I was considering what
could be done for our safety, the wind shifted suddenly, as if by an act of Providence,
to the opposite quarter, and enabled us to steer back, out of this dangerous place,
with all sail. At 9 o'clock, the wind returned to the S. Eastward, having just lasted
long enough to take us out of danger; at 11, we had 20 fathoms; and in 2 hours
more, steered N. by W. for the BABEL ISLES, with a fresh and fair wind." Intro-
duction to Flinders, vol. i. p. 192.
Flind. Introd. vol. i. p. 127.
AUSTRALIA BASS' STRAIT. 165
Fumeaux'a
ot CAPE BARREN ISLAND, from which they are separated by a islands.
channel containing several dry and covered rocks. This cluster
consists of three islands, and several small rocks scattered about
them ; but one only is of any considerable size, and according to
Captain Flinders, it is 4 miles in length E. S. E. and W. N. W.
The summit of the island is a smooth round hill near its northern
shore, called MOUNT CHAPPELL, which is elevated 500 or 600 Mount
feet above the level of the sea, and may be seen at the distance
of 8 leagues from a ship's deck in clear weather. The other
islands of this group are low and small, and lie about a mile from
each other to the W. S. W. ; with some dry rocks extending more
than a mile from their N. W. side, and a clear channel between
them and MOUNT CHAPPELL.*
. CLARKE'S ISLAND, the southernmost of the range which bears ciarke'sisiand.
the name of FURNEAUX, lies off the south side of CAPE BARREN
ISLAND, from which it is separated by ARMSTRONG'S CHANNEL ;
and forms the north side of BANKS' STRAIT. Its greatest length
is 6| miles in an E. N. E. and W. S. W. direction, and it is 4
miles wide ; the N. E. extreme projecting in a narrow sandy
point to the entrance of KENT'S BAY, in the eastern part of ARM-
STRONG'S CHANNEL. The rocky south end of this island is placed
by Captain Flinders in lat. 40 33' S., Ion. 148 9J' E., and
separates two small bights; that on the east side being filled with
* The above-mentioned navigator, who passed through this channel in the Norfolk
sloop, in 1798, says, " The passage is about two miles wide, and the water much
discoloured} but 10 fathoms of line did not reach the bottom. A similar appear-
ance in the water had been observed several leagues to the westward of the low
islands, where there was 23 to 25 fathoms, on a bottom of sand and broken shells.
This small group consists of three, or perhaps four islands, for the mount seemed to
stand detached from the land on the east side of the passage. The basis of the
whole is probably of granite, and they seemed nothing superior in fertility to the
worst of FURXEAUX'S ISLANDS ; but in a distant view, a slight covering of small
herbage upon their sloping, even surfaces, gave them a prepossessing appearance.
MOUNT CHAPPELL is 500 or 600 feet above the water ; and the elevation of the
other islands being inconsiderable, it was a very conspicuous object, until, by the
clearing away of the haze, the high mountains of the great island behind it became
visible ; their white, towering peaks, bathed in the late showers, reflected the
gleaming sunshine with great splendour, and presented a spectacle so magnificent,
that the circular, gently sloping MOUNT CHAPPELL no longer attracted attention."
Introduction to Flinders, vol. i. pp. 145, 146.
166
Furneaux's
Islands.
Look-out
Head.
Armstrong's
Channel :
Preservation
Island 5
Hamilton's
Road;
Rum Island :
Night Isle.
AUSTRALIA BASS' STRAIT.
shoal water, which fronts the east shore to the extent of nearly
3 miles.
The S. W. point of CLARKE'S ISLAND is called LOOK-OUT
HEAD. It is surrounded by rocks for about a quarter of a mile,
and has a shoal bay with an island in it, round its N. W. side : a
small detached reef, with two dry rocks upon it, lies about one
third of a mile to the S. E. of this head, and there is a larger one,
called LOOK-OUT ROCK, lying three quarters of a mile off, in the
opposite direction. All the western shore is rocky, and is fronted
by breakers for about a quarter of a mile.
ARMSTRONG'S CHANNEL, separating CLARKE'S and CAPE
BARREN ISLANDS, is about 10 miles long in an east and west
direction, and from three quarters of a mile to 4 miles wide.
At its western entrance, which is also the widest, the channel
is divided by PRESERVATION ISLAND, a rocky piece of land,
lj mile long in a N. W. and S. E. direction, and half a mile
wide ; at the S. E. extremity of which is HAMILTON'S ROAD,
" where shelter may be found from all winds, except between
South and S. S. E. ; and these do not throw in much sea :
the bottom is good holding sand, in from 4 to 3 fathoms, at
a quarter of a mile from the beach/'* The anchorage in
HAMILTON'S ROAD, which Captain Flinders made in lat. 40 28'
S., Ion. 148 6' E., is limited on the north side by a sandy spit
of 2 and 3 fathoms water, which extends 2 miles east from the
N. E. side of the island, and has 5 fathoms close to its extremity.
In the S. W. quarter, the anchorage is defended by RUM ISLAND,
which is small, and lies close to the south end of PRESERVATION
ISLAND, to which it is joined by a reef of dry and covered rocks.
Similar dangers surround both these islands to the distance of a
quarter of a mile in most parts, except off the N. W. side, where
they extend, in small detached patches, to the distance of half a
mile. A rock, called NIGHT ISLE, also lies l mile off the west
end of PRESERVATION ISLAND, and has some smaller detached
rocks straggling to the distance of more than half a mile from
its north and south ends : that to the south of it, is distinguished
by the name of DOUBLE ROCK, and appears connected with it by
a reef.
* Flind. Introd. vol. i. pp. 127, 128.
AUSTRALIA BASS' STRAIT. K>7
Fiaauaua'*
PRESERVATION ISLAND and the rocky islets adjoining are islands.
visited by numerous sea-birds, including the barnacle goose and Refreshments,
a few black swans;* and " well-tasted freshwater is collected, and fresh
at certain seasons, in small pools near the east end of the former ; v '
but that which drains from the rocks appears to possess some
pernicious qualities, as it was first used by the shipwrecked crew
of the Sydney Cove, until several of them died. Small runs
or pools of water are to be found almost everywhere under the
high parts of CAPE BARREN ISLAND, and it is probable there
may be some upon CLARKE'S ISLAND. "t
It is high watej; in HAMILTON'S ROAD, half an hour before the Tide,
moon comes to the meridian, according to the commander of the
Nautilus schooner ; but from what Captain Flinders observed,
without paying particular attention to it, the tide did not appear
to flow so late by an hour : the medium rise was about 7 feet.
The Magnetic Variation here, in 1798, was 9 E. ; but at the Variation.
SWAN ISLES, 5 leagues more to the southward, it was found to be
6 30', and induced our navigators to suppose that the stone con-
tained rather a large quantity of iron.
To the S. E. of RUM ISLAND is a clear passage 1| mile wide, West end of
by keeping in mid-channel, or avoiding the rocks which lie a little channel?*
way out from either shore ; but on the north side of PRESERVA-
TION ISLAND the channel is not three quarters of a mile across,
and the navigable space is contracted to half that width, by rocks
projecting from both shores. This channel is not so safe as the
former ; but a ship from the westward, making use of it, may
" The sooty petrel, better known at sea under the name of sheerwater,"
observes Captain Flinders, " frequents these islands in astonishing numbers. It is
known that these birds make burrows in the ground, like rabbits ; that they lay one
or two enormous eggs in these holes, and bring up their young there. A little after
sunset, the air at PRESERVATION ISLAND used to be darkened with their numbers,
coming in from sea ; and it was generally an hour before their squabblings ceased,
and everyone had found his own retreat. These birds are about the size of a
pigeon, and when skinned and dried in smoke, we thought them passable food. Any
quantity could be procured, by sending people on shore in the evening. The sole
process was to thrust in the arm up to the shoulder, and seize them briskly ; but
there was some danger of grasping a snake at the bottom of the burrow, instead of
a petrel." Introduction to Flinders, vol. i. pp. 133, 134.
f Flind. Introd. vol. i. p. 131.
168
Furneaux's
Islands.
AUSTRALIA BASS' STRAIT.
nnd dangers
near it.
avoid the dangers on either hand, by steering in mid-channel,
within half a mile of the northern shore: when past the north
end of PRESERVATION ISLAND, the course may be shaped (E. S.)
Point Womat, for POINT WOMAT, a low rocky projection on CAPE BARREN
ISLAND, with a small islet at its extremity, which may be passed
within a quarter of a mile. On the west side of this point is a
bight full of rocks and shoals ; and a short half mile E. f S.
from the islet at its extremity, lies a small detached rock, rising
above water from the depth of 10 and 12 fathoms. The space
between POINT WOMAT and the eastern elbow of the spit which
projects from PRESERVATION ISLAND, is little more than three
quarters of a mile in a S. W. direction, but contains from 5 to
10 fathoms water.
Battery Island, BATTERY ISLAND, On the north side of ARMSTRONG'S CHANNEL,
bears E. by N. distant 1 1 mile from the islet off POINT WOMAT,
and is situated in a sandy bight upwards of 3 miles wide, which
is formed between that projection and SLOPING POINT. It is
very small, and received this name from having four rocks upon
it, resembling mounted guns. Shoal water surrounds it to a
little distance, but 9 fathoms are found at less than a quarter of a
mile from its south side, and the same depth nearly midway to
the west end of a long narrow shoal, which extends from thence
to SLOPING POINT. It is doubtful whether any safe channel will
be found on the north side of this shoal, unless it be a narrow
one very close to SLOPING POINT ; and on the south side of
it, the channel is not so much as half a mile wide, between
it and a shoal flat which extends off the north side of CLARKE'S
ISLAND.
This is the most intricate part of ARMSTRONG'S CHANNEL,
because there are no intelligible marks by which to point out the
deepest water ; but the plan in Plate VI. of the Australian Atlas
appears entitled to credit, and may safely be relied upon, with a
good look-out. Captain Flinders, by whom this survey was
made in 1798, observes, " In the wider parts of ARMSTRONG'S
CHANNEL there are many shoals of sand on each side, but a
passage of sufficient width and depth is swept out by the tides,
for ships to go through in safety. The bottom is either rocky
or sandy : rocky in the deep and narrow parts, where the tide
and shoals
about it.
AUSTRALIA -BASS STRAIT. 169
Pmetuuf'a
runs 3 or 4 miles in an hour ; and sandy in the bights and shoaler islands.
places."*
SLOPING POINT is a rocky projection on CAPE BARREN ISLAND, Sloping Point,
and bears from POINT WOMAT E. S. distant 3j miles, with a
shoal sandy bight between them. This projection forms, with
the north point of CLARKE'S ISLAND, the narrowest part of ARM-
STRONG'S CHANNEL, which is here only three quarters of a mile
wide ; but the navigable space between them is contracted to less
than half a mile, by the small SEAL ROCKS which lie off the Seal Rocks,
southern shore. The depth of water between these rocks and
SLOPING POINT is 10 to 17 fathoms, on a rocky bottom ; and the
same depth is found along the east shore of the latter, at the
distance of a quarter of a mile.
At the east entrance of ARMSTRONG'S CHANNEL are situated Passage isie.
the PASSAGE ISLES, two in number, nearly 1 1 mile in length, and
separated from each other by a channel half a mile wide, in which
there is plenty of water. These islands are narrow and rocky ;
the westernmost is situated at the X. E. extremity of a shoal,
which extends 5 miles from it in the direction of S. S. W. J W.,
and surrounds several small low islets and dry rocks. A narrow
passage is said to exist between this shoal and the flat which
extends half a mile off the sandy east shore of CLARKE'S ISLAND ;
but it has not been sounded, and can be available only for small
vessels in fine weather.
At the distance of 1| mile W. 4 S. from CONE POINT, which
may be distinguished by having two whitish cones resembling
rhinoceros' horns upon it, lies PASSAGE POINT ; and behind a Passage Point,
sandy bight which separates them, is a lagoon of water, of a red
colour and rather brackish.t Several other ponds, of less dimen-
Flind. Introd. vol. i. p. 130.
t It is remarked by Captain Flinders, that "the lower parts of these islands arc
commonly sandy ; and in several places under the hills, swampi and pools are formed.
The water in these is generally tinged red ; and in one, situate between PASSAGE
and CONE POINTS, it had so much the appearance of blood, that be went to taste it ;
but, except being a little brackish, found nothing remarkable. Wb.etb.3r the water
become thus tinged, in its course down the hills, by earthly or metallic substances,
or acquire its colour from the roots and leaves of vegetables, he was unable to decide ;
but thought the former most probable. Small runs or pools of water are to be found
almost everywhere under the high parts of CAPE BARREN ISLAND, and it is probable
z
170
FurneatM's
Isfands.
Kent's Bay :
shoals and
reefs in it :
how to be
avoided.
AUSTRALIA BASS' STRAIT.
sions are to be met with on the west side of PASSAGE POINT,
and contain good water. This projection is the southern ex-
tremity of CAPE BARREN ISLAND, and is separated from the
easternmost PASSAGE ISLE by a channel one third of a mile wide,
which has not been sounded.
KENT'S BAY, on the south side of CAPE BARREN ISLAND, is
3| miles across its entrance, in an E. by S. and W. by N. direc-
tion, and is a mile less in depth ; it is situated in the eastern
part of ARMSTRONG'S CHANNEL, between PASSAGE and SLOPING
POINTS. The able navigator last quoted, observes, " The
greater part of KENT'S BAY is occupied by shoals ; but along the
shore of SLOPING POINT there is a deep channel running north-
ward, which leads into the western head of the bay ; and there,
behind a reef of dry rocks, which lies a short half-mile from the
west shore, several ships may lie in 4 or 5 fathoms, sheltered
from all winds. The Nautilus's tents were pitched upon the
borders of a run of fresh water, about one mile north of the
anchorage; and a garden, which Captain Bishop made there,
produced some tolerable vegetables."* The reef of rocks here
alluded to, is joined to the eastern shore of KENT'S BAY, by a
shoal flat which lines the head of it, and extends in patches nearly
to PASSAGE POINT : therefore, in order to avoid it while working
through this part of ARMSTRONG'S CHANNEL, a ship must not go
to the northward of a line between the reef and PASSAGE POINT,
(bearing from each other N. W. by W. and S. E. by E.) ; and
with a leading wind, may cleEir the shoals on either hand, by
keeping BATTERY ISLAND a little shut in, and POINT WOMAT a
little open of the rocky extremity of SLOPING POINT (W. \ N.).
With these marks on, the east shore of KENT'S BAY may be
approached within three quarters of a mile ; when the opening
between the PASSAGE ISLES will bear S. S. E., and may safely
be used by keeping in mid-channel, and avoiding a shoal which
almost connects the westernmost of these isles with the north
point of CLARKE'S ISLAND.
there may be some upon CLARKE'S ISLAND ; but at the PASSAOE ISLES, they found it
difficult to procure wherewithal to satisfy their thirst." See Introduction to Flinders,
vol. i. pp. 131, 132.
* Flind. Introd. Tol.i. pp. 146, 147.
AUSTRALIA BASS' STRAIT. 171
Furneaux's
BANKS' STRAIT separates FURNEADX s ISLANDS from the islands.
N. E. part of VAN DIEMEN'S LAND, and is 13 miles across from Banks' strait.
CLARKE'S ISLAND to the nearest part of CAPE PORTLAND. It is
not known to contain any dangers, except those in the immediate
vicinity of the cape, and of the SWAN ISLES, which lie contiguous
to it ; but being quite out of the track of ships bound through
BASS' STRAIT to and from PORT JACKSON, it is seldom used.
The Tide runs strong through this Strait, and flows from the S.
Eastward.
SWAN ISLES, in the southern part of BANKS' STRAIT, are a Swan isles.
small cluster lying about a league from the coast of VAN DIEMEN,
with a clear and safe passage all round them. The largest is
to the S. E., and, according to Captain Flinders, is situated in
lat. 40 43|' S., Ion. 148 6' E. ; with a low rocky islet sur-
rounded by several rocks both above and under water, lying one
mile from its N. W. end. This navigator adds, " The length
of the largest SWAN ISLE is 2J miles, by a medium breadth of
1 mile.* We anchored in a small sandy bay at its S. E. end, in 4
fathoms water; being well sheltered from north and western
winds, but entirely open to any that might arise from the opposite
quarters." Between the SWAN ISLES and the low sandy shore
of CAPE PORTLAND, distant 3 miles to the S. Westward, are
regular soundings in 7 and 8 fathoms, sandy bottom ; and 10
fathoms are found within half a mile of their east side.
The Magnetic Variation onshore was about 6 30' E. in 1798, Variation.
but a few miles from the land, it was found to be 9 E. ; the
stone of the islands appearing to contain rather a large quantity
of iron. In 1817, Captain King observed the variation near these
islands to be 8 4' E.
* " The stony parts are overrun with thick brushwood, and the sandy are mostly
covered with hassocks of wiry grass, to which the sooty petrels resort. In external
appearance, this island bears a resemblance to that of PRESERVATION ; but its sterility
is greater, and it is destitute of the kangaroo. We did not see any fresh water in
the vallies, a seal upon the shores, nor any marks of the island having been ever
visited by the natives of the opposite coast. On examination, these isles appeared
very little to deserve their name, for we did not see a single bird of that species,
or any of their nests ; but there were several of the barnacle geese, and two of
them were shot." Introduction to Flinders, vol. i. p. 148.
172
VAN DIEMEN'S LAND NORTH COAST.
DESCRIPTION of the Shores of VAN DIEMEN'S LAND, and the
ISLANDS contiguous ; with SAILING DIRECTIONS.
Van Diemen's VAN DIEMEN'S LAND, the southern portion of AUSTRALIA, was
discovered in the year 1642, by the celebrated Dutch navigator
Tasraan, who bestowed on it the name it now bears, in honour of
the governor-general of the Dutch possessions in the East. It is
its extent; of considerable extent, being situated between the parallels of
40 41' and 43 39' S., and from 144 38', to 148 27' E. lon-
gitude ; and is separated from the southern part of NEW SOUTH
WALES by BASS' STRAIT.
General de- The NORTH COAST of VAN DlEMEN's LAND forms the south
North'coltf side of BASS ' STRAIT, and will be included in the description of it
given in this work. This coast occupies an extent of more than
50 leagues, between FURNEAUX'S and HUNTER'S ISLES ; and near
the bottom of the bight which it forms by curving inwards to the
its Ports, southward, lie PORTS DALRYMPLE and SORELL ; the former being
the embouchure of the RIVER TAMAR. The whole of this shore
lies generally in very smooth water, the prevailing winds being
off the land, and the long S. Westerly swell outside being inter-
rupted by the islands at the western entrance of the Strait. Its
navigation is represented to be free from dangers to within a mile
of the shore, and of the islands which lie off it ; except in the
Dangers, neighbourhood of PORT DALRYMPLE ; where a three fathom bank
has been discovered at the distance of 8 or 10 miles from the
land, and a reef, on which the ship Hebe was lost in 1808, at
the distance of 1J mile. The shore to the westward of this
port, as far as ROCKY CAPE, having, however, been seen only at
a distance by Captain Flinders, whose chart is the principal
authority that has been relied on, for the following account of the
coast, it will be prudent for navigators not to approach that part
of it without a good look-out.
Tide, and The Tide flows to the westward along the North Coast of VAN
Current. DIEMEN'S LAND ; and there is said to be also a Current running
in the same direction, during greater part of the year. This
VAN DIEMEN'S LAND NORTH COAST. 173
circumstance, and the smoothness of the water, make it desirable
for a ship working through BASS' STRAIT against western winds,
to keep nearer to the shore of VAN DIEMEN'S LAND than to that
of NEW SOUTH WALES.
CAPE PORTLAND, the N. E. extremity of VAN DIEMEN'S LAND, Cape Portland ;
is in lat. 40 44' S., Ion. 147 56' E., and is thus described by
Captain Flinders : " From the eastern extremity" (since found
to be an island, lying 2 miles off a low projection which the
French call Cape Naturalist*), " the coast trends about N. 62 W.
6 leagues, and terminates in the point whose geographical position
is given above, off which lie some small rocky islets. The shore Islets and
consists of long, sandy beaches, separated by low and stony
points, which project very little beyond the coast line. The
country for 2 or 3 miles behind the shore is low and sandy ; but
it then ascends in gradations of gently rising hills, and being
covered with verdure, interspersed with clumps of trees and single
trees of a fair growth, it had a very pleasing appearance. At the
back of these hills, the bare and rugged tops of a ridge of distant
mountains appeared here and there, and formed a striking con-
trast to the verdure of the front scene. Our soundings along the
south side of the largest SWAN ISLE were generally 8 fathoms,
on a sandy bottom ; nor was there much decrease until noon,
when the low shore of CAPE PORTLAND was at something less,
and the outer rocky islets something more than a mile distant,
and we came rather suddenly into 3 fathoms. The latitude
observed was 40 43f' S., and the largest SWAN ISLE bore N. 85
to S. 84 E., distant 6 miles. There being little wind at this
time, the Norfolk, in passing round the rocky islets of CAPE
PORTLAND, was carried by the tide over a ledge where there dangers ofl' it.
was scarcely 2 fathoms ; and was then driven westward on a
curved line of rippling water, which extended northward from
the islets, as far as the eye could reach. We passed over the
rippling in 9 fathoms ; and the wind being entirely gone, were
then carried to the S. W. Soon after 4 o'clock, the ebb appeared
to be making; and the anchor was dropped in 11 fathoms, sandy
bottom, about 1 mile west of CAPE PORTLAND. The shore on
this side of the cape trends south, in rocky heads and beaches,
and afterwards curves westward, forming an extensive bay, that
174 VAN DIEMEN'S LAND NORTH COAST.
terminates in a point to \yhich was given the name of POINT
WATERHOUSE.
Tide and High water took place at this anchorage, about nine hours
after the moon passed over the meridian ; arid the tide ebbed
from between S. W. by S. and S. W. by W., at the rate of 2*
miles an hour. The Magnetic Variation was found to be
12 30' E., with the Norfolk's head S. W."*
Point Water- POINT WATERHOUSE bears from the extremity of CAPE
PORTLAND W. S. W., distant 16 miles, and is the rocky termi-
nation of a range of hills projecting from the southward. The
above navigator says, " The land at the back of POINT WATER-
HOUSE is higher than that of the island bearing the same name
which lies off it ; and is composed of grassy, woody hills, rising
over each other by gentle ascents. Upon the point there is a
sandy hillock, and a reef of rocks extends out from it a quarter
of a mile.t A French chart by M. Freycinet,| places this pro-
jection 3 miles nearer to the extremity of CAPE PORTLAND, and
on the bearing S. W. by W.
isle Water- ISLE WATERHOUSE, lying off the above projection of the same
name, is near 4 miles in length E. N. E. and W. S. W., and
about 1J mile wide. Its southern shore is represented by
Captain Flinders, to consist of " beaches and rocky points ; but
it rises abruptly to a moderate elevation. The level top is mostly
covered with wood ; and although its appearance did not bespeak
fertility, it was superior to any we had seen of FURNEAUX'S
ISLANDS."!
and passage to The passage between this island and the point is from 2 to 3
of C it! l r m 'l es wide, but the navigable space in the east entrance is con-
tracted to less than half that width, by rocks which project from
both shores, and make it necessary to keep in mid-channel,
where the same navigator had 8 fathoms water ; and in steering
to the westward through the passage, the soundings were 8, 7,
6, 5, 4, 5, 6 fathoms ; the sandy bottom being visible under the
sloop. At the west end of the channel, a rocky islet, almost
* Flind, Introd. vol. i. pp. 148, 149. f Ibid. 151.
J Freyc. Atlas, PI. 6. Flind. Introd. vol. i. p. 150.
VAN DIEMEN'S LAND NORTH COAST. 175
covered with sea birds and hair seals, and a small reef, were left A rocky islet
and a reef.
on the starboard hand.*
From POINT WATERHOUSE the shore trends S. 67 W. 5 or
6 miles, and is mostly rocky. It then takes the direction of
S. S. W., in a long sandy beach, and afterwards curves west-
ward, in an open sandy bight about 7 miles across, to
DOUBLE SANDY POINT. This projection, as its name implies, Double Sandy
is formed by two sandy points of the coast, resembling each
other, and lying 2 or 3 miles apart, in the direction of W. 1 S.
and E. N. They are over-topped with hillocks of almost
bare sand, and the back country was observed by Captain Flin-
ders to be manifestly worse than any before seen on this coast.
The pleasant-looking hills of POINT WATERHOUSE no longer
approached the shore ; but retiring far inland, left a low space
between the back hills and the sea, which had every appearance
of being sandy and barren. While passing the western extreme
of DOUBLE SANDY POINT within the distance of a mile, the
above-named officer had 5, and then 4 fathoms ; and saw a reef arid reef off it.
extending from it some distance to the westward. It was then
nearly dark, and he hauled off upon a wind, for the night; the
furthest visible extreme, a remarkable stony head, bearing
S. 70 W. about 8 miles. At the distance of a mile from the
eastern part of this projection, there is no bottom at the depth
of 13 fathoms.
NINTH ISLAND is a small piece of level land, of green appear- Ninth Island,
ance, lying near 6 miles N. W. from the western projection of
DOUBLE SANDY POINT, and 11 miles W. S. from the west end
of ISLE WATERHOUSE. Its vicinity is supposed to be clear of
dangers ; and in the French charts,t 30 to 34 fathoms are laid
The positions of ISLE and POINT WATERHOUSE would appear to be at least 3
miles farther to the eastward than laid down by Flinders. M. Freycinet considered
so ; and Lieutenant (now Commander) P. P. King, having passed through BANKS'
STRAIT, on the 1st of January 1818, observed the lat. at noon 40 33' 21" S., with
MOUNT CHAPPELL bearing true N. 2 E., the south end of CLARKE'S ISLAND S. 83E.,
largest SWAN ISLE S. 414 E., and ISLE WATERHOUSE S. 35j W. The depth of
water was then 1 9 fathoms, on a coarse bottom of coral and sand j and from that
to 21 fathoms, on the same kind of bottom, were found 3 leagues farther to the
westward.
f Freyc. Atlas, Pi. 6.
176 VAN DIEMEN'S LAND NORTH COAST.
down at the distance of 7 or 8 miles to the northward, and no
bottom with 40 fathoms 4 miles to the westward of it.
stony Head. STONY HEAD, a conspicuous, but not very prominent projec-
tion of the coast, is the extremity of a ridge of hills which
branches out from the inland mountains, and stretches across the
low, sandy land in front, to the sea. Its northern extremity is
placed by Captain Flinders in lat. 40 58' S., Ion. 147 3J' E. ;
or 13 miles N. 65 E. from Low HEAD, at the entrance of PORT
Tenth island. DALRYMPLE. A small rocky islet, called TENTH ISLAND, lies
3 miles N. W. | W. from STONY HEAD, with a safe channel
inshore of it, and apparently no dangers in its immediate vicinity.
Port Dairym- PORT DALRYMPLE, at the entrance of the RIVER TAMAR, is the
pie '
principal harbour on the North Coast of VAN DIEMEN'S LAND,
but is difficult of access, on account of the numerous shoals- it
contains. By making the proper signal, strangers may always
procure pilots here, when the weather will admit of their going
off; but, for the guidance of those who are obliged to run in
without one, the following directions and a good look-out may
prove sufficient.
Captain Flinders, who discovered this port in 1798, observes,
" PORT DALRYMPLE and the RIVER TAMAR,* occupy the bottom
of a valley betwixt two irregular chains of hills, which shoot out
N. Westward, from the great body of inland mountains. In some
places, these hills stand wide apart, and the river then opens its
banks to a considerable extent ; in others, they nearly meet, and
contract its bed to narrow limits. Of the two chains of hills
Low Head ; which bound the valley, the eastern one terminates at Low HEAD,
in lat. 41 3' S., Ion. 146 47|' E. ; the other comes down to
the sea, 5 or 6 miles from it on the west side of the port. The
"So named by the late Lieutenant-Colonel Paterson, who was sent from PORT
JACKSON to settle anew colony there, in 1804. The first town established was
York Town, at the head of the Western Arm, but this proving inconvenient as a
sea port, it was proposed to be removed lower down, near GREEN ISLAND. Laun-
ceston, the capital of this colony, is fixed at the junction of the North and South Esks,
up to which the TAMAR is navigable for vessels of 150 tons. The tide reaches 9 or
10 miles up the NORTH ESK, and the produce of the farms within that distance may
be sent down the river by boats; but the SOUTH ESK descends from the mountains
by a cataract, directly into the TAMAR, and consequently is not accessible to navi-
gation of any kind." Introduction to Flinders, vol. i. p. 163.
VAN DIEMEN'S LAND -NORTH COAST. 177
Port Da/-
ends of these chains, when seen from directly off the entrance, rympie.
appear as two clusters of hills having some resemblance to each
other ; and in fine weather, the distant blue heads of the back
mountains will be seen over the tops of both clusters. These
appearances, joined to the latitude and longitude, are the best
distant marks for finding PORT DALRYMPLE. If a ship come
alongshore from the eastward, the NINTH ISLAND, and afterward
STONY HEAD, with the TENTH ISLET lying 3 or 4 miles to the
IV. W. will announce the vicinity of the port ; and Low HEAD
will be perceived in the bight to the S. S. W., but it is not a
conspicuous object. Three or 4 leagues to the westward of the
port, the back land is uncommonly high, and the top of the ridge
is intersected into uncouth shapes. These mountains, with the
direction of the coast and what has been said of the clusters of
hills, may serve as marks for PORT DALRYMPLE, to ships coming
alongshore from the westward.
" Reefs and banks extend out to a considerable distance on the Dangers in the
west side of the entrance ; so that strangers should avoid that er
side, and endeavour to come in with Low HEAD. The greater
part of these shoals, as also of those in SEA REACH, are covered
at half tide ; therefore the first of the flood, or even a little before,
is the best time to enter PORT DALRYMPLE, as almost the" whole
of the dangers are then visible. A signal post, with pilots, was
fixed at Low HEAD, on the settlement of the colony in 1804,
and beacons have since been placed on some of the most dan-
gerous rocks and -shoals."
The outer danger off this port appears to be a bank of 3 to 4 Outer Bank ;
fathoms, lying between 10 and 12 miles N. \ E. from Low HEAD,
and 3 leagues to the W. N. W. of TENTH ISLAND ; which renders
it necessary for a stranger to be careful in making the entrance of
the port from the northward.
Mr. Horsburgh's E. I. Directory* gives the following account
of the dangers lying nearer to the shore. " The HEBE'S REEF, Hebe's reef;
on which the ship of this name was wrecked, June 15, 1808,
is the outermost known shoal off the immediate entrance of PORT
DALRYMPLE, bearing from the flag-staff on Low POINT or POINT
Vol. ii. p. 563.
A A
178 VAN DIEMEN'S LAND NORTH COAST.
Port Dal-
rympie. CLARENCE W. N. by compass about 5 miles distant, and pro-
bably extends farther to sea. The Hebe got on the shoal at
high water, and had not less than 2^ fathoms on it, the swell
being rather high at the time ; but at low water, spring tides, the
sea upon it appears discoloured. The HEBE'S REEF bears from
the western reef about N. by W. true bearing, distant about 2
miles ; and the outer breakers on the western reef, bear west by
compass from the flagstaff."
Beacons, with Captain Kent, of H. M. S. Buffalo, placed three beacons on the
saiUng^nto ' shoals at the entrance of this port, and has given the following
the port ; directions for going in : " Steering in for PORT DALRYMPLE,
and being within 1 \ mile of Low HEAD or POINT, and a little to
the westward of it, look out for a beacon with sheers on its top,
which is placed on the east part of the easternmost of the
western shoals. Bring this beacon on with the centre of the
harbour, that is, the opening between the trees as high up as
GREEN ISLAND, steering by compass S. E. by S. until you are
within half a mile of the beacon ; this will keep you clear of the
rocks and shoals to the westward, part of which are always dry,
and also of the patches of weed which stretch out from Low
HEAD.* Look then out for a beacon placed on a half-tide rock,
situated a full cable's length from the inner part of Low HEAD,
toward which stand over, observing to give the sheer beacon a
good berth, because a patch lies a large cable's length eastward
from the beacon, having only 1 fathom on it at low water ;
and there are 2 fathoms between them. The half-tide rock
beacon, is a cask placed on an iron bar about 14 feet high, and
the west part of the rocks may be approached within 30 or 40
yards, in any ship. From hence you may run up to LAGOON
BEACH, taking care not to haul too much to the eastward, as
there is a patch of 2| fathoms more than a cable's length above
the beacon. As LAGOON BEACH is an exposed place, it is best
to run up to OUTER COVE, or above it, before anchoring, for the
* This mark will carry you between the two easternmost of several small rocks
which lie scattered in a line across the entrance of the port, at the distance of If
to 2 cables' lenjth from each other, on the bearing of S. 70 W. from the flagstaff
on Low HEAD. When the sheer beacon comes in a line with a white patch on
the western shore, bearing S. 30 W. (about S. S. W. by compass), you are inside
these dangers.
VAN DIEMEN'S LAND NORTH COAST.
Port Da/-
bottom between Low HEAD and OUTER COVE is thought to be rympie.
either a smooth sloping rock, or loose stones. Above GREEN
ISLAND, the bottom is all mud. The Buffalo drove upon the
eastern shoals with two bower-anchors ahead, and both these
anchors were hove up the bank from 15 to 2 fathoms ; the sheet-
anchor laid out with a whole cable, and backed by the stream-
anchor with 40 fathoms of cable to it, was also hove home a
little, but ultimately took the ship off.*
" In standing up the harbour, when you are abreast of LAGOON Lagoon Beach
BEACH, keep the low part of Low HEAD a sail's breadth open j s i am i ;
to the westward of the half-tide rock beacon, which will lead you
in mid-channel until you are as high up as the eastern shoals ;
you can then incline over to the westward, as the hetfbour here
takes a considerable bend that way, till you are up as high as
the shoals which lie to the N. W. of GREEN ISLAND. These
half-tide shoals are very dangerous, having within a boat's length
of them, 5, 7, and 9 fathoms ; they may, however, be easily
avoided, by looking out for a small sandy beach about half a mile
above OUTER COVE on the same side, bearing from the N. E.
part of GREEN ISLAND S. E. by E. by compass : take care to
keep some part of this beach open to the eastward of GREEN
ISLAND, for if you shut it in, you are onshore immediately.
Having passed those shoals, stand over to the N. W. point of
OUTER COVE, which is nearly steep to, and from thence into the Outer Cove ;
Cove, where you can anchor in 9 fathoms, sandy bottom, and
moor with half a cable each way. In standing for the Cove, keep
near the N. W. point, in order to avoid the MIDDLE SHOAL, over Middle Shoal ;
Another mark for sailing between the small rocks in the entrance of the port
is, to keep the half-tide rock beacon in a line with two others, which have been
erected on the shore behind LAGOON BEACH (bearing S. 64 E.), until the sheer
beacon comes in a line with the white patch on the western shore, as spoken of in
the last note. You may then steer to the S. S. E., in mid-channel between the
half-tide and sheer beacons, which are not so much as half a mile apart. The
depths among the patches of weed which extend from Low HEAD over towards the
western shoals, are generally from 3 to 2 fathoms. The flag-staff on Low HEAD
may be discerned a long way off; from which, according to Mr. Horsburgh, the
sheer beacon is said to bear S. by W. i W. distant 1 mile, and the outer two beacons
E. N. E. and W. S, \V. of each other. Since the Buffalo visited PORT DALRYMPLE,
GEORGE TOWN has been established on the north shore of OUTER COVE, and is now
the residence of the commandant.
180 VAN DIEMEN'S LAND NORTH COAST.
Port Dal-
t-ympie. which the tides set strong" until half flood, when it is covered,
and does not dry again till half ebb : its situation may be known
by a beacon, with a vane on its upper part ; and 3 fathoms water
are found all round at the distance of 20 yards. OUTER COVE
contains little room for a large ship, as it dries a long way from
its head, and eddy tides set in every direction. The stream
which falls into it is salt to a greater distance than can be reached
by a boat ; nor is any accessible fresh water to be found in its
neighbourhood. Above GREEN ISLAND, which lies about 2
cables' length from the western shore, and is connected with it
by a shoal, there is room for any number of ships, on tolerably
good holding ground ; but the bottom is very uneven, the tides
rapid and kregular, and many parts of the shore are fronted by
banks, which render great caution necessary while proceeding
without a pilot. A commander who is desirous of passing above
Porpoise Rock ; GREEN ISLAND, must avoid the PORPOISE ROCK, which lies
W. | N. 1 cable's length from POINT ROUNDABOUT, and has
no more than 4 feet upon it at low water ; but it may be
safely passed on either side, in 12 to 17 fathoms. A mile to the
Anchor Point; southward of POINT ROUNDABOUT, lies ANCHOR POINT, on the
opposite western shore, where the width of the port is contracted
to a quarter of a mile, and a rapid tide is found in 17 to 21
fathoms water. ANCHOR POINT must be avoided by a ship
Shag Rock ; bound into the TAMAR, in order to keep clear of the SHAG ROCK,
another small danger lying one eighth of a mile from it to the
S. E., and covered at the top of the flood. An easterly course
Middle Island ; may then be steered, towards MIDDLE ISLAND, which will be
seen 1 1 mile distant, and must be left on the starboard hand,
being connected with the shore to the southward by a shoal, which
also projects nearly half-way over towards the eastern bank of
River Tamar ; the river. The TAMAR is navigable for large ships as far as
SWAN POINT, which is 3 leagues above MIDDLE ISLAND ; but
small vessels may proceed to LAUNCESTON, which is 5 leagues
farther, and was the principal settlement before the establishment
of GEORGE TOWN, on the shore of OUTER or YORK COVE.
Western Arm ; The WESTERN ARM of PORT DALRYMPLE is narrow, and has
not more in the entrance than 3 fathoms, although, about 1 mile
up, there are 7 fathoms near the starboard shore. This arm is
VAN DIEMEN'S LAND NORTH COAST. 181
Part Da/-
not accessible to ships beyond 3 miles ; and even in that distance rympie.
there is much more shoal than deep water.
The MIDDLE ARM of this port lies to the southward, between Middle Arm ;
the entrance of the TAMAR and WESTERN ARM, and is divided
near the centre by MIDDLE HEAD ; but it is filled by shoals and
mud-flats, and is accessible only to boats and small craft, who
will find the deepest water near INSPECTION HEAD, on the western
shore, until coming abreast of MIDDLE HEAD, when the deepest
channel will be found to contain no more than 3 fathoms, and to
be situated near the latter.
As the prevailing winds are from N. W. to S. W., a ship may
wait long before a leading wind is got to carry her out of the
harbour ; she will, therefore, probably be obliged to kedge, or
back and Jill out with the tide.
High water takes place in PORT DALRYMPLE about a quarter
of an hour before the moon comes to the meridian, and the ebb
runs out 7 hours. The Tides set irregularly on, over, and through, Tides ;
among all the eastern and western shoals, at the entrance of the *
port ; rising 6 to 1 1 feet on the springs in PORT DALRYMPLE, but
as much as 16 feet in some parts of the TAMAR. In the channel
between GREEN ISLAND and OUTER COVE, Captain Kent found
the velocity of the tide did not exceed 2| or 3 miles an hour ;
but when Captain Flinders discovered and partly explored this
harbour, in 1798, he states that both ebb and flood ran with
much rapidity in the narrow parts.
Firewood is abundant here ; and there are many places at Wood ana
which fresh water may be procured with equal facility. The
latter may be got near the beacons on Low HEAD, and there is
excellent water in the WESTERN ARM; but no vessel should
attempt the latter, without previously examining the channel by
boats. The Magnetic Variation on shore, in 1 798, was 8j E. Variation.
On the west side of the entrance to PORT DALRYMPLE, the
coast trends to the W. S. W. for 5 or 6 leagues, and is said to
be low and sandy, with several ridges of well-wooded hills
immediately behind it ; but at the distance of 3 and 4 leagues
inland, a high and rugged range, called the ASBESTOS MOUNTAINS, Asbestos
occupies an extent of more than 7 leagues in an east and west
direction, and is very conspicuous in clear weather, from a ship
182
VAN DIEMEN'S LAND NORTH COAST.
and passage
above it ;
in passing. Under the eastern foot of this range is situated
PortSorell; PORT SORELL, the entrance to which lies 11 miles to the west-
ward of Low HEAD, and is about a mile wide ; but rocks pro-
jecting from both shores, contract the navigable space to a much
less width, and render it necessary to borrow on the west side of
Directions for mid-channel, in sailing in or out. After passing the narrow part
of the entrance, the port opens out into a width of more than 2
miles, and appears to be clear of dangers for the same distance
A small island, upwards. A small island, about 2 miles within the entrance,
will be seen midway between the shores to the S. E., and must
be left on the starboard hand, by a ship desirous of passing above
it, as it is connected with the western shore by a shoal. Similar
obstructions front both shores above this island, and make it
necessary to keep mid-channel in sailing upwards : but the
absence of any further information respecting this valuable port,
than the small delineation of it in Plate VI. of the Australian
Atlas, precludes the possibility of giving any notice of its navi-
gation, depth of water, or capabilities ; and should deter a stranger
from proceeding farther into it than is necessary, without making
a previous examination by boats. From its entrance, this port
extends to the S. E. for 3 leagues, in nearly a straight line ; and
about a mile from its termination on that bearing, there is a small
arm in the western shore which has not been examined, but will
probably be found to derive its origin from a torrent in the
ASBESTOS MOUNTAINS.
A ship in want only of wood and water, would perhaps find
PORT SORELL more convenient than PORT DALRYMPLE, on
account of the numerous dangers and strong tides which are
encountered in the latter ; but the intimation above given, as to
the depths of water and the approach to this port, should induce
Marks for the a stranger to proceed with caution. The same directions which
have been given for finding the entrance to PORT DALRYMPLE,
will also be available for that of PORT SORELL.
ROUND-HILL POINT is the first projection of any consequence
on the west side of PORT DALRYMPLE, and is surmounted by a
round hill, which bears from Low HEAD W. ^ S. distant 12
leagues. The intermediate space is a bight of low and chiefly
sandy shore, in which are several small openings, leading to a
Extent ;
Wood and
water ;
Round-bill
Point.
VAN DIEMEN'S LAND NORTH COAST. 183
hilly country , that is tolerably well wooded to the back mountains :
upon this elevated range are many variously shaped tops, the
most remarkable of which is a flat peak resembling an extin- A remarkable
guished volcano, lying 11 leagues S. 1 W. from TABLE CAPE,
and in that view assuming the form of a pointed cone. The
ridge upon which this peak is situated approaches the shore in a
N. E. direction, and terminates 6 or 7 miles to the S. Eastward
of ROUND-HILL POINT, in a bluff extremity, which does not
project beyond the general line of the coast : the land about it is
low, and having been seen only at a distance, should not be
approached in the night, or without due caution.
TABLE CAPE is the cliffy extremity of a woody, flat-topped Table Cape-
piece of land, which is sufficiently elevated to be visible at the
distance of 12 leagues from a ship's deck in clear weather. It
is placed by Captain Flinders in lat. 40 56' S., Ion. 145 43^ E.,
or 16 miles N. 59 W. from the extremity of ROUND-HILL POINT;
and has a small sandy bight round its S. E. side. Between
these projections the shore forms two sandy bights, and there
is a small islet lying a long mile off the point which separates
them.
ROCKY CAPE bears X. 66 W. distant 10 miles from TABLE Rocky Cape.
CAPE, and is fronted by a reef to the extent of a long half-mile.
CIRCULAR HEAD is represented by Captain Flinders, as "a Circular Head,
cliffy, round lump, in form much resembling a Christmas cake ;
and is joined to the main by a low, sandy isthmus. The land
at the back is somewhat lower than the head, and is formed into
very gentle slopes. A slight covering of withered grass gave it
a smooth appearance ; and some green bushes scattered over it,
much resembled, at a distance, a herd of seals basking upon a
rock." This navigator places the east extremity of the head in
lat. 40 46|' S., Ion. 145 19' E., and observes, " TABLE CAPE,
ROCKY CAPE, and CIRCULAR HEAD lie nearly in a line of
N. 62 W., and are about 10 miles apart from each other.
Between these, the coast forms two shallow bights ; the shore and coast to
of the first is mostly rocky, and an islet lies in the middle;
the western bight is sandy, and promises better anchorage,
particularly near CIRCULAR HEAD, where a vessel may be
sheltered against all winds from the western half of the
184 VAN DIEMEN'S LAND NORTH COAST.
compass.* The land at the back of the shore, from TABLE
CAPE westward, is of a different description to that before passed :
instead of having an extensive view over a variegated and well-
woeded country, the sight was there confined by a ridge of
stony hills, of which ROCKY CAPE is no more than a projecting
part."t
Circular Head CIRCULAR HEAD makes from the eastward like a small flat-
seen" topped island, and may be seen at the distance of 10 leagues
from the deck of a ship, in clear weather. Its rocky northern
extremity lies 4 miles N. W. from the eastern part; and in a
line between them there is a projecting point of a similar descrip-
Soundings off tion, separating two small sandy bights. Four and 5 fathoms
water are found as far out as 2 miles from the north side of the
head, and the former depth within half a mile of a small rock
dangers to the w hich lies close to it : but round the S. W. side, there is a shoal
westward.
flat fronting the low sandy shore to the distance of 3 miles, and
extending in nearly a straight line to the shoals on the south side
of ROBBINS' PASSAGE.!
* Lieutenant Robbins, R.N., who was despatched from PORT JACKSON two years
afterwards, to examine the channel which separates HUNTER'S ISLES from the N. W.
part of VAN DIEMEN'S LAND, anchored in 7 fathoms water, a long mile to the
southward of CIRCULAR HEAD, and found good shelter from all winds except those
between North and E. by S.
t Flind. Introd. vol. i. p. 16T.
| Here terminates the description of BASS' STRAIT and the NORTH COAST of VAN
DIEMEN'S LAND. An account of ROBBINS' PASSAGE and CAPE GRIM will be found at
page 122, et seq.
VAN DIEMEN'S LAND -WEST COAST. 185
DESCRIPTION of the WEST COAST of VAN DIEMEN'S LAND;
with SAILING DIRECTIONS.
THE WEST COAST of VAN DIEMEN'S LAND is generally a General De-
rocky shore, of sterile aspect, with reefs fronting it to the distance s
of 3 or 4 miles in some places ; and a heavy swell usually rolling
in upon it from the S. W. The prevailing winds are from the
same quarter, and bring much bad weather, especially in the Winds and
winter months of June, July, and August. An experienced
resident in that country* has observed, " whenever the wind veers
round to the S. E., or is easterly, it is a certain intimation of fine
weather; but whenever the wind shifts against the Sun, badweather.
weather is sure to follow. Mariners sailing along the coast
will, therefore, do well to pay attention to the state of the
wind, which affords almost infallible prognostics of good or
bad w r eather." The few first pages of this work will bring the
navigator acquainted with the winds and weather which are to be
expected off the Southern Coast of Australia ; and, with perhaps
a few exceptions, the same laws will be found to govern the
natural phenomena on the Western shore of VAN DIEMEN'S
LAND. The marine barometer is here of great use, its rise
preceding southerly and sea winds, whereas winds from the
northward and from the land mostly always lower it : this will be
found more steadily applicable to moderate weather.
Between the parallels of 40 and 44 S., from VAN DIEMEN'S
LAND to the meridian of CAPE LAGULLAS, strong north and
N. N. E. winds have frequently been encountered, shifting some-
times suddenly to N. W. and westward. Mr. Horsburgh, in his
valuable East India Directory,! says, " Several ships have
experienced these northerly winds when steering for BASS'
STRAIT, which drove them to the south of that route, and obliged
them to proceed round VAN DIEMEN'S LAND. In July, 1802,
Mr. G. W. Evans, Surveyor- General at VAN DIEMEN'S LAND, in his Geogra-
phical, Historical, and Topographical Description of it, p. 51.
f Vol. i.p. 104.
BB
18G VAN DIEMEN'S LAND WEST COAST.
the Perseus, running in lat. 40 S. for BASS' STRAIT, had strong
north and N. N. E. winds, with a southerly current, several degrees
to 'the westward of the Strait, which forced her to go round VAN
DIEMEN'S LAND: here the winds were very changeable, much
from the S. Eastward, with northerly currents, till her arrival at
PORT JACKSON, late in July.
" In November, 1800, the Royal Admiral, in lat. 43 to 44 S.,
running east for VAN DIEMEN'S LAND, had the winds mostly at
N. N. E., and N. W. ; sometimes at west and W. S. W. When
round the SOUTH CAPE, she had north and N. E. winds three
days, then variable between east and S. S. W. till her arrival at
PORT JACKSON, on the 20th of November."
Captain P. P. King, returning to England in H. M. S. Bathurst,
after completing his surveys of the AUSTRALIAN COASTS, took a
departure from the south coast of VAN DIEMEN'S LAND, on the
8th of October, 1822; but had a succession of heavy westerly
gales, with much damp weather, and did not reach KING GEORGE'S
SOUND till the 10th of November.*
* The following extract from a journal kept by an officer of the Bathurst may
prove useful in showing the nature of the winds and weather which may be expected
to the westward of VAN DIEMEN'S LAND, at this season of the year; and the reli-
ance which may be placed on the marine barometer, for its indication of any
changes: " At sunset, 8th of October, passed the Mewstone, with a fine breeze
from the N. Eastward, and steered west ; but before midnight, the barometer had
fallen from 29| to 29|- inches, the wind became light, and was afterwards squally,
with heavy' threatening weather. Before dawn on the 9th, the sloop was under
close reefed topsails, the wind having chopped round in sudden squalls from N. E.
to the N. W., in which quarter it remained for three days, blowing strong and
squally, with the barometer below 29i inches. On the lltb, it fell to 29,33, and the
wind inclined westerly and S. W. On the morning of the 13th, the mercury in
this useful and valuable instrument attained an elevation above 29i inches again,
and continued to rise while the wind veered round to the S. W. and southward,
attended with thick cloudy weather, frequent squalls, and rain ; in the evening, it
was at 30 inches, with a fresh breeze from the S. S. E. In less than 24 hours, the
wind had veered round by east (in its usual way) to north, and the mercury, which
had reached the height of 30,15 inches, then began gradually to descend. At noon,
on the 16th, being in lat. 40J S,, Ion. 134iE.,it had fallen nearly to 29$, and we
had another fresh breeze from W. N. W.: in which quarter, and from the S. W., it
prevailed in nearly the same way, till towards the latter end of the month, when we
had some moderate weather, and the barometer maintained an average height of
about 30 inches. A more northerly route was then attempted, but the same series
VAN DIEMEN'S LAND WEST COAST. 187
The northerly winds above alluded to, do not prevail near
the land ; but it is advisable for a ship making a passage not to
approach any part of this coast, unless impelled by necessity, as
the weather is frequently very boisterous in its vicinity; and
PORT DAVEY, situated near its southern part, is the only acces- Places of
shelter *
sible harbour in which a ship of burden can find shelter. MAC-
QUAIRE HARBOUR, inlat. 42 10' S., can at all times afford shelter
to vessels drawing 9 feet water, and in a case of emergency, a
ship might find secure anchorage in 6 to 12 fathoms water in its
OUTER ROAD, well sheltered from all S. W. winds by the west
point of the harbour's entrance ; but during blowing weather, it
is not advisable for any vessel to anchor in this situation, which
draws too much water to pass the bar, as the entrance of the
harbour is situated in an extensive sandy bight, quite open to
the west and X. Westward ; from which quarter the wind often
shifts suddenly, and blows with great violence.
The Tide flows to the northward along the West Coast of Tide ;
VAN DIEMEN'S LAND : and there is also a Current generally current ;
setting in the same direction, particularly during the prevalence
of S. W. and southerly winds, which throw a great body of water
upon this shore from the GREAT SOUTHERN OCEAN. The Mag- Variation.
netic Variation is between 8 and 9 E., and increases to the
southward.
The WEST POINT of VAN DIEMEN'S LAND is a sandy pro-
of hard W. N. W. gales and heavy squalls again obstructed our progress. On the
morning of November 1, the barometer was at 29,90, and in 12 hours fell a quarter
of an inch, when the wind had shifted from W. S. W., and blew a gale at N. W. :
in less than 12 hours afterwards, it had fallen to 29,35, and we were under reefed
storm-staysails, with a hard gale between VV. by N. and W. by S., accompanied by
severe squalls ; but in an equal space of time, the mercury rose with rapidity half
an inch, the gale veered southerly, moderated, and was succeeded by light winds
from the S. W. and N. W. for 2 days, with the barometer at 30 inches. The sloop
was then about 100 leagues to the E. S. E. of KING GEORGE'S SOUND, and made
TERMINATION ISLAND, the southernmost of the RECHERCHE ARCHIPELAGO, on the
6th, with moderate S. W. winds, and barometer above 30^ inches. An easterly
breeze, by which these were succeeded, having veered round to the S. W., contrary
to its usual routine, the barometer fell to 29$, and we had another gale from the
westward, which retarded our arrival in KING GEORGE'S SOUND till the night of
the 10th of November, after a tedious and boisterous passage from PORT J.VCKSOJ*
of 46 days." Journal of Lieutenant J. S. Roe, R.X.
188
VAN DIEMEN'S LAND WEST COAST.
West Point, jection, in lat. 41 4' S., Ion. 144 38' E., according to Captain
Flinders ; but in 41 2j' S., and 144 43' E. from Greenwich,
according to a French chart by M. Freycinet,* who tried for
soundings with 53 fathoms of line, 6 miles off to the westward,
and coast on but could find no bottom. At the distance of 4 leagues to the
N. E. of its extremity, is the bottom of a wide sandy bight which
was not seen by the above navigators, but is quite open to the
each side. westward. On the south side of this projection, the coast extends
to the S. by E. and S. S. E. for nearly 20 leagues, and consists of
sandy beaches, separated by points which have many straggling
rocks lying off them, to the distance of nearly 2 miles. At the
back of the shore, the land is low for 2 or 3 miles, and then rises
gently to a ridge of barren low hills. Behind these, there is a
second chain, much higher and better wooded than the front
ridge. Upon the north end of this chain, two hills situated near
each other, are conspicuous from a ship in the offing, and in clear
weather are visible before the coast-line abreast of them : the
northernmost is called MOUNT NORFOLK, and, according to Cap-
tain Flinders, lies in lat. 41 24' S., Ion. 144 58 J' E., or between
7 and 8 miles from the nearest part of the shore.
An opening io An opening like a small river was observed by the above
1 lt- navigator, round some low cliffs 6 leagues due south from MOUNT
NORFOLK, and was supposed to take a northerly course between
the front and back ridges of hills. Two conical rocks, and
several others, lie near the shore about 2 miles on the south
side of the opening, and were passed at the distance of a mile
and a half ; but other rocks being seen off the opposite northern
shore, and the wind veering more in from sea, this break in the
land could not be examined.
Cape Soreii. CAPE SORELL is a rocky projection of moderate height, and is
placed by Captain King in lat. 42 10|' S., Ion. 145 16|' E.
The extremity is low, terminating in straggling bare rocks of
brown appearance ; and the coast on each side is very rocky and
sterile. Many patches of breakers and rocks above water, lie
detached from the shore ; and there is one small rock just above
Mount Nor-
folk.
Frcj-c. Atlas, PI. 6.
VAN DIEMEN'S LAND - WEST COAST. 189
the water's surface, lying one fifth of a mile to the N. W. of the
Cape, with apparently no safe channel inshore of it.
This Cape is the south point of a deep sandy bay, between 4 Bay round its
and 5 leagues across, and 10 or 11 miles in depth, which is quite nc
exposed to the westward and X. W. About 1 mile from its
long sandy beach, there are 12 and 13 fathoms water, and the
depth then suddenly decreases to half that quantity on a regular
sandy bottom. In the S. E. corner of this bay, is situated the
entrance to MACQUARIE HARBOUR ; and 3 or 4 miles behind its
northern shore is a woody range of high and irregular mountains,
extending in a S. S. E. direction from MOUNT XORFOLK, and
then diverging towards the interior. The highest and most con-
spicuous of these are MOUNTS HEEMSKERK and ZEEHAAN, named Mount
by Captain Flinders after the two ships of the early Dutch navi-
gator Tasman, who discovered this land Xovember 24, 1642.
The first is the most elevated, lies 16 miles north from CAPE
SORELL, and may be seen at the distance of 10 or 12 leagues.
MOUNT ZEEHAAN bears from it E. 20 S., distant between 4 and Mount Zee-
5 miles, and has a peaked summit.
MACQUARIE HARBOUR is an extensive sheet of water, occu- Macquarie
pying a space of 14 or 15 leagues, in a S. E. by S., and X. W. Harbour>
by X. direction, and is from 2 to 4 leagues wide, according to
some authorities ; but by Mr. Evans, the Survey or- General in
VAN DIEMEN'S LAND, its dimensions are considered to be much
less. The entrance, which is very narrow, is situated at the south its entrance,
extreme of the long sandy bight last mentioned, and is formed
between the rocky shore of CAPE SORELL, and a low sandy point
to the eastward. A bar, with- only 9 feet on its deepest part at Bar ;
low water, lies about three quarters of a mile outside of a small
rocky island, in the narrow part of the entrance, and separates
two anchorages, which are known by the names of the Outer
and Inner Roads. Within the narrow part of the entrance,
which is three quarters of a mile in length, and at its inner part
less than a quarter of a mile across, the harbour gradually expands
in width, but is almost filled with extensive sandy shoals for more
than 4 miles ; among which are some very narrow channels, con- Channels,
taining in their deepest part 2 fathoms, and in the shoalest 7
feet, at low water: only one of these channels is supposed to
190 VAN DIEMEN'S LAND WEST COAST.
Macqiiarie
Harbour. lead to deep water, and it was called KELLY'S CHANNEL, by
Captain King, after the original discoverer of the harbour. The
water then deepens to .10 and 20 fathoms in a S. E. direction ;
and there are 25 and 26 fathoms in mid-channel, for several
leagues, where the shores are removed to their greatest dis-
tance, and run nearly parallel with each other for more than
30 miles.
Eastern Arm. Jn the eastern corner of this extensive port, there is a con-
siderable arm branching off to the N. Eastward, and extending
about 10 miles in that direction, towards some high ridges of
white-topped mountains, which are visible from the borders of the
RIVER DERWENT. On the summit of these mountains, an
Lake, extraordinary lake was discovered in 1817, by Mr. Beaumont,
and reported by him to be of angular form, and upwards of 50 miles
in circumference. It is supposed to be the source of the RIVER
Rivers, DERWENT, and of two rivers, the GORDON and BIRCH, which fall
into the southern part of MACQUARIE HARBOUR. Mr. Feen, who
visited this port in the brig Sophia, soon after its discovery in
1816, states the entrance of GORDON RIVER to be about 50 miles
from the bar ; and in tracing it in his boat, the first falls were
discovered nearly 50 miles farther inland ; the course of the
river being through what was thought the Western Mountains,
directly east from the harbour's mouth.*
This harbour, and the rivers which fall into it, are said to be
enclosed by land wholly unfit for cultivation ; but the forests
Productions, abound with various kinds of timber, fit for spars, boat-buildino-,
joiners' and cabinet work, and architecture. Fish may also be
procured in plenty, near the rocky parts of the shore, and fresh
water in almost every part ; indeed, the latter appears to be so
abundant at certain seasons, that on several parts of the shore
there are marks of the water rising to the height of several feet
above its usual level. At those periods, which probably happen
when long continued rains have swollen the great lake in which
the rivers of this harbour are supposed to have their source, the
channels among the shoals are deeper than usual, and the water
rushes with great rapidity, in a continued ebb, through the
* Horsburgh's East India Directory, vol. ii. p. 659.
VAX DIEMEN'S LAND WEST COAST. 191
Mucfjunrie
narrow channels at ENTRANCE ISLAND ; but at other times, a Harbour.
vessel drawing more than 9 feet water cannot cross over the bar.
An excellent survey of the entrance to MACQUARIE HARBOUR*
was made by Lieutenant (now Commander) Philip P. King, in
1819, and may safely be relied upon for navigating to the deep
water inside ; though it is necessary to observe, on account of
the shoals and banks being composed of sand, and for other
reasons stated above, that the channels are liable to shift both in
position and depth. According to Captain King's survey, which
was made in the latter part of January (middle of summer),
the Bar extends about three quarters of a mile outside of the The Bar;
narrow part of the entrance, and has only 9 feet on its deepest
part at low water. The mark for crossing over in this depth, is
to keep the centre of ENTRANCE ISLAND in a line with the
eastern pitch of the summit of a flat-topped hill, called MOUNT
WELLINGTON, which is distant a long mile from it, on the
bearing of S. 15 E. This mount rises rather abruptly from the
shore on the w r est side of the harbour, and will be easily distin-
guishable by its table top, which is elevated 260 feet above the
level of the sea, and is separated from the other hills to the west-
ward, by a deep notch, that gives it the appearance of being
insulated, before the connecting land becomes visible. By
bringing these marks carefully in "a line, when in 7 or 8 Directions for
fathoms water, at three quarters of a mile from the bar, the cr
depth will gradually decrease to 9 feet at low water, and will
continue so in the space of one eighth of a mile, when a small
rock which lies contiguous to the northern part of CAPE SORELL
will open out a little from the land, on the bearing of W. N. W.
Steer then to the S. W., and keep the sea horizon in view between
the rock and the land, until the east pitch of MOUNT WEL-
LINGTON comes over the west end of ENTRANCE ISLAND ; you
will then be just inside the bar, and may steer for the island,
with these marks in a line, in from 10 to 48 feet water.
ENTRANCE ISLAND is small, and little else but a mass of rock, and for sailing
having some small rocks extending to the distance of 60
* Published at the Hj drographical Office of the Admiralty, and to be had of the
Agents selected for selling the Admiralty Charts.
192
Mucquarie
Harbour.
Inner Road.
Tide*.
VAX DIEMEN'S LAND WEST COAST.
70 yards from its north extremity, and another small rock
near its X. W. point. This extreme of the island is placed
by Captain King in lat. 42 11' 37" S., Ion. 145 19' 58" E.
Between this island and the low sandy shore to the eastward, is
a space of a long quarter of a mile, which is filled with shoal
water, extending from the latter to within a few yards of the
island ; close to which is a very narrow channel, containing a
depth of apparently 10 or 12 feet. The proper channel into the
harbour, is that between ENTRANCE ISLAND and a steep rocky
projection 70 yards to the westward of it, where the depth is 7
to 11 fathoms, with deep water close to the rocks. In sailing
through this channel against the ebb, keep the western shore
aboard while passing the island ; as the tide sets strong out of a
bight just within it, and is likely to drift a vessel upon the island,
in the absence of a commanding breeze.
The space between ENTRANCE ISLAND and the Bar, is called
the INNER ROAD, and contains good anchorage on a clear sandy
bottom, in from 10 to 36 feet, with the centre of MOUNT WEL-
LINGTON over the west point of the narrow entrance ; but the
width between the breaking water on each side is, in some parts,
only a quarter of a mile. In working through the INNER ROAD,
do not approach the shoals on the east side nearer than to bring
the east pitch of MOUNT WELLINGTON'S summit over the west
end of ENTRANCE ISLAND ; nor approach the shoals on the west
side nearer than to bring the centre of the narrow western channel
in a line with the inner extremity of the low sandy east point
of the harbour's entrance.
Great attention must be paid, not only to these marks and
to obtaining quick soundings, but to the Tides, which run here
with great strength, and during freshes, have been experienced
at the rate of 5 and 6 miles an hour. The ordinary time of
high water on the bar, at full and change of the moon, was
ascertained by Captain King to be at 7 hours, and the rise 3
feet ; but both these phenomena are influenced at times by the
above, and other local causes, which involve them in much
uncertainty. During Captain King's stay of a fortnight, at
MACQUARIE HARBOUR, the tides were found to be very irregular,
making high water sometimes twice, and at other times only
VAN DIEMEN'S LAND-WEST COAST. 19
Macquarie
once in 24 hours ; and in both cases, the ebb ran twice as long Harbour.
as the flood, producing a difference in the level of the water,
which on several occasions did not exceed the average fall of
one foot and a half.* During the prevalence of rainy or thick
cloudy weather, the high mountains on the eastern side of this
extensive harbour contribute materially to the increase of its
waters, and in part occasion the irregularities above-mentioned.
The westerly and N. W. gales, which frequently blow with great
violence on the western shores of VAN DIEMEN'S LAND, not
only influence the tides in this harbour very considerably, but
render it unsafe for any vessel to anchor outside the Bar, when
there is a prospect of the wind blowing from those quarters ; as
there is no shelter between north and west, in the OUTER ROAD, Outer Road,
for any but small vessels. The best anchorage there in fine
weather, to wait for the tide on the Bar, is in 6 or 7 fathoms
water, sandy bottom, with the north extremity of CAPE SORELL
bearing due west, and the eastern foot of MOUNT WELLINGTON
just in sight through the narrow channel on the west side of
ENTRANCE ISLAND : in this situation, the distance from the N.
Eastern part of CAPE SORELL will be nearly half a mile, and
somewhat more from the nearest part of the Bar. A pilot may
* The following extract from a journal kept by one of Captain King's Assistant
Surveyors, will show the little dependence which can be placed upon the tides in
MACQUARIE HARBOUR, on account of their great irregularity: "We sometimes
experienced only one tide in 24 hours, the flood running 8 hours, and ebb 10 ;
and at other times, two tides occurred during the day, running with the greatest
velocity of 2$ miles an hour (though in the narrows at the rate of about 3
miles), without any regular time of high water/ or fixed quantity of its rise and
fall. The latter may be called one foot and a half upon an average, though it
frequently fell far short even of that. Mr. Kelly, commander of the brig Sophia,
and the original discoverer of this harbour in 1810, says he has experienced a con-
stant strong outset, or ebb, for 9 days together, without the water rising or falling
so much as one foot ; though at other times, during N. W. gales, the rise has been
very great, and subjected the adjoining low lands to repeated inundations. As one
of the many proofs of this, there is, near our station staff, at the west end of
ENTRANCE ISLAND, the trunk of a huon-pine tree, 16 or 18 feet long, and nearly
3 feet in diameter, which has been left on the top of some sharp-pointed rocks, al
least 10 feet above the common level of the sea; and from which the boat's crew
cut a considerable quantity of firewood, whilst we were taking the requisite obser-
vations for the survey/' Journal of Lieutenant I. S. Roe, R.N.
cc
194
VAN DIEMEN'S LAND WEST COAST.
Harbour.
W alts' Hill.
Outer Bay.
be obtained here, by making the proper signal, or by sending a
boat to a small sandy bight in the N. E. part of the Cape.
WATTS' HILL is a conspicuous lump of rock on the N. E. side
of CAPE SORELL ; and at the distance of a quarter of a mile due
east from it, lies a small rocky islet, about 100 yards from the
shore. At low tide, the least water between them is 3 fathoms,
and the greatest 4% fathoms, on a sandy bottom ; with some-
what less round its south side, in a small bight which is formed
in the western sands of the Bar. This small nook, although
scarcely one eighth of a mile across in any direction, would
nevertheless afford shelter in very smooth water, to any vessel
which might be caught suddenly by a northwester in the OUTER
ROAD, and be unable to cross over the Bar. About half a mile
to the southward of this rocky islet, is a curving sandy beach,
called OUTER BAY ; at the west end of which, behind some dry
and covered rocks, is a small run of fresh water, communicating
with some swampy land behind it ; but the whole of this Bay is
very shoal, and accessible only by boats.
An eminence, similar to WATTS' HILL, but with a remarkable
double head, lies half a mile to the southward of this beach, and
is little more than half that distance from the sea to the west-
Mount Antiii. ward : it is called MOUNT ANTILL, and has abundance of fresh
water in its neighbourhood.
SANDY POINT, forming the east side of the entrance to MAC-
QUARIE HARBOUR, lies nearly three quarters of a mile S. E. by S.
from ENTRANCE ISLAND, and has 20 feet water close to its
beach, with 14 feet about 100 yards to the westward. The
shoals which form the eastern part of the Bar, commence at this
projection, and curve round from thence to the N. W. and north-
ward, occupying the eastern half of the space between the shores,
which in some parts are not so much as a quarter of a mile
asunder. The land on each side of SANDY POINT is low and
sandy for several miles, and is covered with shrubs : that which
forms the western side of the channel, is steep, and rises to
several ranges of irregular rocky hills, amongst which are several
masses of quartz, and other white stone, which give them the
appearance of being partially covered with snow.*
* To the same cause may, perhaps, be attributed similar appearances of snow, which
Sandy Point,
and opposite
shore.
VAN DIEMEN'S LAND WEST COAST. 195
Uaemtarie
Along this western side of the narrows lies the deepest chan- llariour '
nel, in which are from 2 to 10 fathoms, and deep water within a
few yards of the rocks, until approaching a small BUSHY ISLAND Bushy island,
situated near the west shore, at the distance of three quarters of
a mile within ENTRANCE ISLAND : here the shores retire farther
from each other, and the intermediate space is almost entirely
occupied by extensive shoals and sand banks, which are partially
uncovered by the tide, and have some narrow channels among
them.
BUSHY ISLAND bears S. by W. I W., distant a short quarter of a
mile from the S. W. extremity of SANDY POINT, with from 20 to 35
feet water between them, deepening towards the former. It is
small, but conspicuous, with a round bushy summit ; and two small
dry rocks lie a full cable's length to the southward of it. The whole
must be left on the starboard hand, in sailing up the harbour ;
and in passing between BUSHY ISLAND and SANDY POINT,
borrow towards the former, to avoid a spit which projects from
the eastern shoals, and approaches the island within one eighth
of a mile, in the direction of X. E. from its summit. A narrow
channel, with 13 feet water, will be found between this small
cluster and the western shore, by keeping the former aboard ;
as also between it and a small sandy bay at the foot of MOUNT
WELLINGTON; but the latter should not be used when it is
practicable to pass through that to the eastward of BUSHY
ISLAND.
MOUNT WELLINGTON is about one third of a mile south from Mount Wei-
BUSHY ISLAND, and has already been mentioned. The deep linston>
channel lies close round its foot, and on its east side is about
one sixth of a mile wide, with from 12 to 30 feet water ; this
many navigators have observed on the inland and more elevated ranges of hills, while
the temperature at the level of the sea has not tended to confirm so plausible a suppo-
sition. H. M. Sloop Bathurst, homeward bound from PORT JACKSON, passed round
the south coast of VAN DIEMEN'S LAND in October, Ifc22; at which time all the
elevated parts appeared to be partially covered with snow near their summit,
although Fahrenheit's thermometer on board was at 56 and 57 in the shade, and
did not fall below 54 when exposed to a fresh N. Eastern wind blowing off the
shore. Many of the highest mountains in this land, including those on the east side
of MACQCARIE HARBOUR, which are elevated 3500 feet above the level of the sea,
are said by the colonists to be covered with snow during great part of the year.
196 VAN DIEMEVS LAND WEST COAST.
depth increase? to 40 and 60 feet on the S. E. side of the Mount,
where the channel is contracted to little more than half the above
width, and the tide runs with increased velocity.
Baud Hei. ROUND HEAD is the next projection to MOUNT WELLINGTON.
from the foot of which it bears S. S. E. | E. distant one mile,
and forms with it CHANNEL BAY. A shoal in the S. Western
part of this Bay divides the channel into two parts ; one of
which, containing from 12 to 4 30 feet water, follows the sweep
of the bight ; and the other, called MIDDLE CHANNEL, about a
cable's length across, and containing 9 to 13 feet, extends in a
S. E. direction towards ROUND HEAD. There is a conspicuous
white mark about half way up the side of the bills on the south
side of MOUNT WELLINGTON, which serves as a mark for sailing
through the MIDDLE CHANNEL, by keeping it on the opposite
line of bearing with the pitch of ROUND HEAD (X. W. J X. and
S. I A very small bight with a sandy beach, situated
about one sixth of a mile to the southward of this white mark, is
-,' , called MUSQUITO COVE, and has a run of fresh water in its
X". Western corner. There is good anchorage abreast of it in
12 to 20 feet water, on a sandy bottom, within 40 or 50 yards of
the shore.
ROUND HEAD is a high steep projection, and has from 15 to
36 feet water close to it all round. At the distance of one third
of a mile to the X. E. of this point, is a patch of sand near the
edge of the extensive northern shoals which dries at three quarters
ebb. Tbe water shoals gradually towards it from ROUND HEAD,
and then deepens to the E. by S. | S., in what is supposed to be
the only channel which leads upwards to the deep water of the
harbour. Captain King named this KELLY'S CHANNEL, after
its discoverer, and found the width of it towards the western end
to be less than half a cable's length : its entrance on that side is
very little more, and will be found close to the south side of the
drying sand.
A vessel crossing CHANNEL BAY, either by the inshore
passage or by MIDDLE CHANNEL, should stand close over to
ROUND HP. AD, until its western extremity nearly shuts in the
west end of a sandy beach about 4 or 5 times larger than Mus-
QUTTO COVE, situated in the southern part of the Bay. Steer
VAN DIEMEN'S LAND WEST COAST. 197
then in the opposite direction, E. X. (E. by N. J N. by com- H^U
pass), keeping the end of the beach just in sight, and it will lead
into the narrow western entrance of KELLY'S CHANNEL, formed
between a covered spit on the south side, and the above men-
tioned drying sand to the northward.* In the absence of a perma-
nent beacon, were a limb of a tree, or any other mark, placed on
the south end of this sand, and kept exactly under the white
mark on the hills near MOUNT WELLINGTON, bearing W. by
N. | X. (W. | X. by compass), it would lead a vessel clear
through the narrow part of KELLY'S CHANNEL, in between 7 and Kelly's Chan-
8 feet least water ; which will oblige a vessel of greater draught
either to wait for high water, or lighten sufficiently to cross over.
The extensive sandy shoals on the south side of this channel
are connected with and surround a small but conspicuous island,
which lies nearly one mile X. W. $ W. from a high steep point
on the southern shore, whose form and appearance have gained
for it the name of TABLE HEAD. This is called BETSEY'S
ISLAND ; and when its centre comes under the west end of the
flat-topped summit of the head, bearing S. | E. (S. by E. | E.
by compass), KELLY'S CHANNEL widens, and forms an elbow by
trending E. X". Eastward. An E. X. E. (compass) course for
2 miles further, will cany a vessel beyond the eastern extremity
of the shoals on either hand, and give a berth of half a mile to
the verge of that which extends off RIVER POINT, which is the
eastern termination of the low sandy shore which forms the east
side of the harbour's entrance : the water then deepens to 6, 12,
and 20 fathoms, the flat summit of TABLE HEAD will bear to
the westward of S. S. W., and the harbour will be found free from
shoals for several leagues.-f-
Besides KELLY'S CHANNEL and the imperfect one immediately ^^^ r
among
If you shut in the whole of this beach behind the western extremity of Rorxp
HEAD, you will go onshore upon the covered spit, near the extremity of which are
no more than 3 feet at low water. On its south side, a wider and deeper
channel than KELLY'S runs parallel with it to the E. by S. S. for nearly a, mite and
a half ; when it suddenly shoals to 6 and 5 feet, abreast the spot where the latter
begins to widen and become deeper.
t In steering the E. N. E. course here recommended, the lead must be hove
quickly, as the banks on each side are very steep, and the water shoals from 40 to 3
feet in the space of a few yards ; being deepest near the edge of the northern shoals.
198
Macquarie
Harbour.
VAN DIEMEN'S LAND WEST COAST.
to the southward of it, there are two others which terminate in a
similar way, by a bar at their eastern extremities, which make
them impassable for any vessel drawing more than 6 feet water.
The first of these, which is very narrow, commences at SANDY
POINT, on the east side of the narrow entrance of the harbour ;
and after winding close to the low sandy shore for about a
mile and a half, edges off from it in a S. S. E. direction, from
the bottom of a bight, and finds a shallow outlet into that part
of KELLY'S CHANNEL which is situated near the elbow in its
eastern part. The other channel commences round the S. E.
side of ROUND HEAD, and follows the elevated steep shore of a
bight which it forms with another high projection, called POINT
the shoals. BACK-AGAIN, situated 1 \ mile S. E. by S. from it. Close to
this point are upwards of 4 fathoms water, which shoals gra-
dually to the northward, eastward, and S. E., until the channel is
said finally to be lost among the shoals which surround BETSEY'S
ISLAND. These channels, however, have not been thoroughly
examined, and may possibly contain more water at what is
supposed to be their eastern termination, than is found in the
shoalest part of KELLY'S CHANNEL.
Table Head. TABLE HEAD is situated nearly midway in a line between
POINT BACK- AGAIN and LIBERTY POINT, and forms two bights,
one on each side, about a mile across, and nearly a mile in depth.
The westernmost of these is mostly occupied by the shoal-flats
which surround BETSEY'S ISLAND ; but the other bight is supposed
to be free from dangers, though its depth of water is not known.
Liberty Point. LIBERTY POINT projects to the N. Eastward in a narrow
sharp ridge of moderate elevation, and forms with RIVER POINT
the southern termination of Captain King's survey of MACQUARIE
HARBOUR. It is placed by him in lat. 42 16' S., and 6' East
from the N. W. point of ENTRANCE ISLAND, or in Ion. 145 26'
E. Eleven fathoms water are found within a mile of the shore
to the southward of it, increasing to 25 and 26 fathoms 3 or 4
miles farther to the eastward.
Twain Cove. A small sandy bight, called TWAIN COVE, lies between 7 and
8 miles* S. by E. from LIBERTY POINT, with four fathoms in
This distance, and those which will be mentioned with reference to the
remainder of MACCUARIK HAKBOUB, are on the supposition that it extends 14 or 15
VAN DIEMEN'S LAND WEST COAST. 199
Maequarie
its narrow entrance, and much less water inside. This cove is Harbour.
not half a mile in extent, and is much contracted by a projection
near the middle of it, which renders the anchoring space very
confined, even for the small vessels which are enabled to cross
over the bar at the harbour's mouth : good shelter for boats may,
however, be found here ; and there are several runs of fresh
water crossing over the beach from the higher land behind.
BIRCH'S RIVER, which falls into the southern part of MAC- Birch's Rmr.
QUARIE HARBOUR, appears likely to prove of considerable im-
portance to the interior communication with this part of VAN
DIEMEX'S LAND ; though its banks and the adjoining country
are said to be totally unfit for cultivation. Its entrance is much
contracted by shoal flats extending from both shores, with from
7 to 10 fathoms water between them, and a clear space within ;
the river, however, has not been explored beyond 4 or 5 leagues
in a S. S. E. direction from its entrance, and is supposed to have
its origin among the high mountains to the northward and east-
ward.
Several small islands and rocks lie near the southern shore,
3 or 4 miles N. W. from the entrance of BIRCH'S RIVER, and
have 5 to 8 fathoms on a muddy bottom, near their S. E. side.
*The same depth is found for 7 miles farther, in a S. E. direc-
tion, to the entrance of
GORDON'S RIVER, which also empties itself into the southern Gordon's Ri-
part of MACQUARIE HARBOUR, 3 or 4 miles to the eastward of
BIRCH'S RIVER, and is supposed to have its source in the same
mountains. A shoal extends nearly 2 miles off the east point of
its entrance ; abreast of which is a channel of 4 fathoms near the
opposite shore. Captain Feen, of the brig Sophia, is said to
have sounded a passage, by which any vessel that can cross the
bar, may proceed within half a mile of the falls.
INIAD POINT lies 6 or 7 miles north from the entrance to iniad Point.
GORDON'S RIVER, and separates two considerable arms in the
northern shore. That on its east side is the largest, and extends
leagues in a S. E. by S. direction from ENTRANCE ISLAND ; which, however, does
not appear to be satisfactorily ascertained.
* On these islands there is a Government establishment for convicts who have
been re-transported for crimes committed in the colony.
200 VAN DIEMEN'S LAND-WEST COAST.
Harbour. about 10 miles in a N. E. direction towards the feet of the
elevated ranges of hills which bound the east side of the harbour.
Nothing is known of the depth or capabilities either of this
brunch, or of that to the westward of INIAD POINT ; except that
a shoal projects upwards of 2 miles from the west point of
the latter, and approaches within the same distance of the small
islands and rocks which lie to the N. W. of BIRCH'S RIVER.
A conical lull, A remarkable conical /'//, of considerable elevation, lies 7
leagues north from INIAD POINT, or in lat. 42 13' S. ; and may
be seen at the distance of 26 leagues. It lies 10 or 11 leagues
from the western coast of VAN DIEMEN'S LAND, and 13 leagues
E. 4| S. from the extremity of CAPE SORELL. There is also a
ami double conspicuous double peak on the same range of high rocky hills,
which bears S. W. distant 8 miles from the CONE : both these
hills serve in clear weather to point out the entrance of the
harbour.
store island. STORE ISLAND lies 3 leagues N. W. | W. from INIAD POINT,
and about a mile from the northern shore of MACQUARIE HAR-
BOUR. It is small, and surrounded by a two fathom bank;
which also fronts the shore on each side of it to the distance of
Coal Head. 3 miles, and gradually approaches the land of COAL HEAD,
situated 3 or 4 miles farther to the northward. At or near the
latter projection, a stratum of coal, six feet thick, had been
reported to exist ; but subsequent visitors have been disappointed
in their expectations of finding any. From COAL HEAD the
northern shore of the harbour trends N. W. J N. for 4 or 5
PuintM'Carty. leagues, without any remarkable sinuosity, to POINT M'CARTY,
which is low, and has 10 fathoms water 2 miles to the westward
of it.
Pine Cove. PINE COVE is a small bight in the shore 5 miles to the north-
ward of POINT M'CARTY, and 8 miles N. E. by E. \ E. from
RIVER POINT, on the opposite shore of the harbour. A shoal
extends a long Ij mile off its west extreme, with 12 fathoms
water close to its south side, and upwards of 16 fathoms in the
space between it and the extremity of the steep bank which
surrounds RIVER POINT. The depths, however, are very irre-
gular in this part, and render caution necessary in approaching
the steep margin of the shoal off PINE COVE ; especially while
VAN DIEMEN'S LAND WEST COAST. 201
so much uncertainty exists as to its distance from the opposite Harbour' 6
western shore of the harbour. The greater part of this Cove is
occupied by shoal water ; but within its entrance there is good
anchorage for small vessels, in 3 fathoms, muddy bottom.* its anchorage,
The surrounding country affords abundance of timber, which productions,
is serviceable for various purposes ; and a tree, usually called
the Adventure Bay Pine, which is fit for small spars. The latter
grows to the ordinary height of 40 to 50 feet, and is from 12 to 16
inches in diameter, with leaves resembling parsley. These spars
are generally rafted over the bar, and taken on board in the
Outer Road.
There is little or no set of tide in PINE COVE, and its rise and and tide.
fall does not usually exceed a foot and a half.
Round the north side of PINE COVE is an inlet, called ULTIMO Ultimo River.
RIVER, which has its rise among the elevated ranges of hills to
the eastward, but is very little known. The same may be said
of all the northern part of this extraordinary harbour situated
above PINE COVE and RIVER POINT, which contains several
places of shelter in a space of 3 or 4 leagues, and good anchorage
in every part, secure from all but S. E. and southerly winds.
SWAN PORT lies 7 or 8 miles to the northward of RIVER swan Port.
H. M. Sun-eying Cutter, Mermaid, Lieut. P. P. King, anchored in this Cove
21st of February, 1819, and procured some of the timber, which grows on its shore
in great quantities, to within a few feet of the water's edge. This intelligent officer
observes, " On our way to the shore in our boat, we disturbed two flights of black
swans, who flew away at our approach. Having landed at the bottom of the Cove,
where the brig Sophia had obtained a cargo of timber, we found the Huon pine trees,
interspersed with many others of different species, growing in great profusion within
three yards of the edge of the water, upon a soil of decomposed vegetable matter,
which, in many parts, was so soft, that we often suddenly sank ankle-deep, and occa-
sionally up to the knees ID it : this swampy nature of the soil is to be attributed to
the crowded state of the trees ; for they grow so close to each other, as to prevent
the rays of the sun from penetrating to the soil. The ground is also strewed with
fallen trees, the stems of which are covered with a thick coat of moss, in which
seedlings of all the varieties of trees and plants that grow here were springing up,
in the prostrate stem of perhaps their parent tree ; and it was not rare to see large
Huon pines of 3 feet in diameter, rooted in this manner on the trunk of a sound tree
of even larger dimensions, that had, perhaps, been lying on the ground for cen-
turies ; while others were observed, in appearance sound, and in shape perfect, and
also covered with moss, which, upon being trod upon, fell in and crumbled away."
King's Australia, vol. i. pp. 156, 137.
D D
202 VAN DIEMEN'S LAND WEST COAST.
POINT, and is said to be a secure basin, 2 or 3 miles in extent,
in which a vessel may lie completely landlocked. Very little,
however, is known of this port, and it does not appear to be
much frequented : some small islands in the entrance render the
channel into it very narrow.
From CAPE SORELL, according to Captain Flinders, the coast
trends to the S. S. E., waving in rocky bights and projections to
a broad point, distant 5| leagues. Between, and nearly 12 miles
from CAPE SORELL, there is a small islet or rock at about 3
miles from the nearest shore, with some sunken rocks to the
eastward of it. From the above point the coast again falls in to
- the S. S. E. and south, forming another bight or bay which is
terminated by a projecting point of land, named by the above
officer POINT HIBBS. The land in all this space rises by a
gentle ascent for 2 or 3 miles from the shore, apparently smooth
and uniform, but destitute of wood, and almost of other vege-
tation.
Point Hibbs. POINT HIBBS projects westward about 3 miles from the coast,
and is higher than the neck by which it is joined to the back land.
A remarkable pyramidal rock lies nearly 3 miles N. E. from it,
which by an observer to the southward of the point, may be seen,
when bearing N. 31 E. over its extremity, appearing like the
crown of a hat. On the south of the point is an extensive ledge
of rocks.
The coast to the southward of POINT HIBBS is more irregular
in its trending ; it is of somewhat greater elevation, and not so
destitute of wood as that on the north side. At the distance of
10 or 12 miles S. E. by S. from the point, is a cliffy head with
high rocks lying a mile from it : and two leagues further south-
ward, there are some patches of breakers lying two miles off the
shore. A projection, which from its appearance this officer
named Rocky Point, lies about 2 leagues to the southward of
the breakers, in lat. 43 0|' S., Ion. 145 33' E.,* and 23 miles
S. S. E. i E. from POINT HIBBS.
From ROCKY POINT, the direction of the coast changes so as
to form a deep bight, the shore round which is high, and at
the back are several bare white peaks, as if covered with snow.
Aust. Atlas, PI. VI.
VAN DIEMEN'S LAND WEST COAST. 203
The greatest elevation of these peaks was estimated at about
1200 feet by Flinders, who, supposing they were what Tasman
named DE WITT'S ISLES (from his distance having been too far
off to distinguish the connecting land), called the highest of them
MOUNT DE WITT. It lies in 43 9' south,* and may be seen 10 MountdeWitt.
or 12 leagues.
S. I W. from MOUNT DE WITT is a projecting point of land,
named POINT ST. VINCENT, near to which are two small hills: Point .St. Vin-
this point, according to the chart, lies S. E. 20 miles from ROCKY R^y p oint .
POINT ; and 4 miles further, S. E. by E., is the north point of
an opening, which has lately been explored and named PORT
DAVEY. The other point of this opening is 4 miles S. by E.
from thence ; it is a projecting cliffy head, with an adjacent
pyramidal rock by which it may be known, and is placed in
lat. 43 21' S., Ion. 145 59' E.t
PORT DAVEY, discovered by Mr. Kelly in 1816, has a bold
entrance : it consists of two arms, of which, one runs to the
northward with a moderate depth of water, and the other to the
eastward ; the latter is called BATHURST HARBOUR.! Two mo-
derately extensive rivers disembogue in this port, the waters of
one of which are said to flow with great impetuosity from the
direction of the western mountains. | The following description
of the port is taken from the Neio South Wales Monitor, of
March 26, 1828. " On entering PORT DAVEY, the land on each
side is of the most rugged and barren description, being steep
and mountainous towards the east. As the traveller ascends,
it gradually becomes narrower, till at last he finds himself, if in
a boat, placed in a narrow but deep channel, in a chasm formed
of perpendicular or overhanging rocky sides, reaching to so great
a height as almost to exclude the light of day. The progress of
the boat is at last stopped by its narrowness, not having room
to ply the oars, and by a cataract of singular beauty. The water
has evidently cut this channel for itself at some remote period ;
and having thus formed an outlet, has left the basin of the great
lake which had formly existed, a fertile plain above, of very
Flinders' Introd. vol. i. p. 177. f Aust. Atlas, PI. VI.
t Evans' Description of Van Diemen's Land, p. 43.
VAN DIEMEN'S LAND-SOUTH COAST.
large extent. The cargoes of Huon pine which have hitherto
been brought from PORT DAVEY, have usually consisted of logs
and trees, that have been washed down this narrow chasm, and
deposited on the sloping beach below."
In the absence of other authority, we give place to the following
instruction for entering this port, extracted from the Remark
Book of Lieut. C. Jeffreys ; but as it is avowedly not written
by himself, we recommend great caution in its use. It says,
" The entrance to PORT DAVEY is bold, and the principal land-
mark is the pyramidal rock near the South Head. Steer
toward this rock, giving it a moderate berth on your starboard
hand ; after passing it and the South Head, with a southerly
wind, you may haul up for an anchorage in the South Arm, which
is good all over the port, in 12 fathoms." *
DESCRIPTION of the SOUTH and SOUTH-EAST COASTS of VAN
DIEMEN'S LAND, with SAILING DIRECTIONS.
The greater part of the southern coast of VAN DIEMEN'S LAND,
comprized between the South- West and the South Capes, as
might be concluded from its exposed situation to the storms of the
polar regions, is rugged, abrupt, and barren, with some small
islands lying off it, from 3 to 14 miles distance. The projecting
heads of land are supported by basaltic columns, like the GIANT'S
CAUSEWAY in IRELAND ; and it is without any known places of
shelter from onshore winds. Captain Nicolas Baudin says, " It
is tolerably high and steep. In fine weather it may be seen a
long way off, and has the appearance of a mass or cluster of
islands, which circumstance is owing to the indentations of the
coast. This coast has not yet been examined with the care
which it requires ; for the irregularities of which we have spoken
appear to authorize the presumption that various bays would be
found there more or less proper to serve as refuge for navigators.
The bottom appeared to us to be clear beyond the islands and
rocks which are situated some distance from it. That of the
MEWSTONE, the one most advanced to the southward, is in form
nearly round, and as it is steep and high, may be ranged at a short
* Jeffreys' Remark Book, p. 92.
VAN DIEMEN'S LAND-SOUTH COAST. 205
distance."* It may be here remarked, that the south-east part of
the coast presents a similar appearance of basaltic columns, but
it is furnished with several good bays and coves, besides the
rivers DERWENT and HUON T ; the former of which affords com-
modious anchorage for an immense number of ships.
The South- West Cape, which is the western limit of the
south coast, is, according to Captain King, in lat. 43 39' S.
but Captain Flinders placed it 1 miles further north, of which we
shall presently have occasion to speak. The latter officer says,
" Seven islands and rocks were counted to the eastward, lying at
different distances from the coast : and the wind having veered
to west, permitted us to pass within them. At noon, a steep
head, which lies 4 or 5 miles N. 79 E. from the South- West
Cape, bore S. 74 W. 3 miles, and the nearest land was a steep
head bearing N. 66 E. one mile and a half: between these the
shore forms a sandy bay 4 miles deep, where it is probable
there may be good anchorage, if two clumps of rock, which lie
in the entrance, will admit of a passage in. After taking bear-
ings of MAATSUYKER'S ISLANDS and the different headlands, we
bore away eastward, and passed another deep sandy bight,
probably the same in which Mr. Cox anchored in 1789.t At
two o'clock, the South- West Cape, distant 15 or 16 miles,
bore W. 2 S., and a steep head at the furthest extreme, which
proved to be the South Cape, S. 72 E. At this time we were
one mile within, or north of the largest of the islands. From
hence we steered for the easternmost isle, lying off a wide open
bight in the coast, 'and afterwards hauled up for the South Cape.
The wind died away at 6 o'clock, when the Cape was one mile
distant ; but thick clouds were gathering in the south and west,
" Baudin's Voyage, p. 33.
f The brig Mercury, commanded by John Henry Cox, Esq. anchored at the
entrance of a deep bay on the south side of VAX DIEMEX'S LAND, on July 3, 1789.
This bay was then first discovered, and lies N. by W. 10 miles from the MEWSTONE.
The country was found to be agreeably interspersed with hills and valleys, and
some of the hills were luxuriantly clothed with trees to their very summits. About
4 miles from the vessel there was a stream of fresh water ; and close to it stood a
hut, or rather hovel, neatly constructed of branches of trees and dried leaves. July
5, a heavy swell from the southward obliged Mr. Cox to get under way, and ha
worked along shore to the eastward. Flinders' Introduction, vol. i. p. 31.
206 VAN DIEMEN>S LAND- SOUTH COAST.
and strong gusts with heavy rain presently succeeded. For-
tunately the squalls came from the westward, so that we were
enabled to get further from these stupendous cliffs : had they
come from the south, the consequences might have been fatal to
the Norfolk.
" The first steep head to the eastward of the South Cape,
opened round it at E. 7 N. (allowing 4 east variation), and a
second from the first, at E. 16 N., their distances asunder being
each about 5 miles. It is the middlemost of these three heads
which is called South Cape by Captain Cook, as appears by the
relative situations of his Peaked Hill and of SWILLY ROCK;
but he had not the opportunity of seeing the heads opening one
from the other, as we had in the Norfolk. I make the latitude
of the Cape to be 43 37' S. nearly as Captain Furneaux did."
Captain P.P. King, who passed round the south end of VAN
DIEMEN'S LAND in October, 1822, speaks of the opportunity he
then had of verifying some observations formerly made by him-
self, by which it appeared to him, that the coast between STORM
BAY and the South West Cape was very erroneously laid down,
both by Captain Flinders and by the French expeditions under
D'Entrecasteaux and Baudin.
He says, " When Captain Flinders passed round VAN DIE-
MEN'S LAND, in the Norfolk, he obtained a meridional supplemen-
tary altitude of the sun to the south, his vessel being under the
land, which made the South-West Cape in 43 29' S. ; but
finding the next day that his instrument was 2' 40" in error to
the north, he assigned to the Cape a position of 43 32'. In the
Introduction to his Voyage* he makes some remarks in a note
upon the positions assigned to it by Captains Cook and Fur-
neaux : the latter officer placed it in 43 39', in which I also found
it to be by its transient bearing from the South Cape. By a
series of bearings carried along the coast, its position is 33
miles W. 3 S. true, from the South Cape.
" All parts of the coast in this interval are proportionally
in error as to latitude, but tolerably well placed in reference to
the coast. The subjoined are the positions now assigned to the
following places, viz.
* Flinders' Introduction, vol. i. \>. 179.
VAN DIEMEN'S LAND SOUTH COAST. 207
Latitude.
South-west Cape... 4339' ... 146 12' -.
Mewstone 43 46 ... 146 31 J 1
South Capo 43 38 ... 146 56 I
" I passed outside the MEWSTONE, and took its bearing as it
came on with the points of land between the South-West and the
South-East Capes, by which I satisfied myself beyond a doubt of
the correctness of my observations, and of the errors into which
Captain Flinders had fallen ; and which must either be attri-
buted to the imperfection of his instrument, or to his reading off
the altitude 10' in error ; and as there is just that difference
between it and the position assigned by Captain Furneaux, which
is also confirmed by my observation, the probability is in favour
of the last conjecture."*
To these positions Flinders' chart t has been corrected.
PEDRA BLANCA and the EDDYSTONE are two cliffy islets, seen Pedra Bianca
by Tasman, in 1642. The former, which is the westernmost
(and is the SWILLY of Furneaux, resembles PEDRA BLANCA,
near the coast of CHINA), is placed in the above chart in lat.
43 50' S. Ion. 146 T E., or 54'' eastward of the South-
West Cape. Captain Vancouver, in 1791, made the difference of
longitude between it and the Cape 55' 40." | The EDDYSTONE
lies above a mile to the eastward of it, and resembles an awk-
ward tower ; they appear to be connected by a rocky reef.
Six miles N. E. by E. from PEDRA BLANCA is a dangerous Sidmout h
rock, that was seen by Capt. W. Gunner, of the ship Lord Sid- Rock -
mouth, on March 5, 1819 : a boat was sent to examine the rock,
which was found to be about 100 yards in diameter above the
surface of the sea, with a reef projecting from it about half a mile
to the N. E. No bottom with 20 fathoms of line could be found
in sounding all around it, and the passage between it and the
EDDYSTONE appeared safe, in case of necessity.
The channel between these islets and the South Cape of VAN
DIEMEN'S LAND is 13 miles wide ; and near the middle of it 60
fathoms water has been found, on broken coral and shells.
* King, vol. ii. pp. 222, 2'23, 224.
t Australian Atlas, PI. VI.
J Vancouver's Voyage, p. 59.
208 VAN DIEMEN'S LAND- SOUTH-EAST COAST.
Another rock. RuRiCK is an islet or rock lying 29 miles S. 73 E. from
PEDRA BLANCA, in lat. 44 0' S., and Ion. 147 45' E. It is
said to have been seen by the Russian ship Rurick, in 1822.
The South-East Coast.
From the South Cape the land trends E. 7 N. about 3 miles
to another Capej from which TASMAN'S HEAD, the south cape of
BRUNY ISLAND, is distant 21 miles N. 71 E. according to Capt.
Flinders ; but N. 62 E. according to Captain King.*
Between the South Cape and TASMAN'S HEAD is the entrance
of a passage to the RIVER DERWENT, known under the name of
D'Entrecas- D'ENTRECASTEAUX'S CHANNEL. It was discovered in April,
^eaux 1792, while on an expedition in search of the unfortunate Perouse,
by the ships under the command of Rear-Admiral Bruny D'En-
trecasteaux, whose name it bears ; and who gave its details in
the beautiful charts that have been executed with so much care
and precision by the hydrographers of the expedition. The
channel is about ten leagues in length, being formed by BRUNY
ISLAND on the east, and the coast of VAN DIEMEN'S LAND on the
west side. It is slightly sinuous, but its general direction is
about N. N. E.| E., and S. S. W. W. ; its breadth is irregular,
varying from seven tenths of a mile to seven miles.
In describing this channel and its harbours, we will commence
with RECHERCHE BAY, it being the place where the Rear-
Admiral, with the ships Recherche and Esperance, first anchored ;
then proceed northward to the other places in succession ; and,
lastly, give directions for navigating the channel.
Recherche RECHERCHE BAY, so named after the Admiral's ship, is,
Bay.
* Alluding to the errors of Captain Flinders' observations, Captain King says,
" The south-east cape of BRUNY ISLAND. TASMAN'S HEAD, is also placed too
much to the southward in Captain Flinders' Chart, as well as in that of
Baudin. From the Mermaid it was set in a line with the South-East Cape, on
the bearing of N. 56 E. (the vessel's head being to the eastward); and on this
occasion (the brig's bead being to the westward) it bore, when on the same line,
N. 53 E. The variation in the latter case was 9 E., but in the former no more
than 6 was allowed ; and Captain Flinders found even 4 sufficient," King, vol. ii,
p. 241.
VAN DIEMEN'S LAND-SOUTH-EAST COAST. ^00
according to the French chart,* about 3 miles wide and 2 miles irE^/rccaa-
deep. In this bay the ships anchored in 12 1 fathoms water, at ,*""'*
about three quarters of a mile to the northward of a point of land,
by them named ROCKY POINT, but now called POINT ARTHUR.
Boats were sent to examine the two harbours which were disco-
vered in it, and which, from their relative situations, were named
SOUTH PORT and NORTH PORT.
SOUTH PORT is situated in the south part of RECHERCHE BAY, South rori.
and, according to the plan drawn by M. Jouvency, is nearly two
thirds of a mile wide at the entrance, from whence it extends in
a south-westerly direction about a mile and one third. A small
cluster of rocks, above and under water, lie in the entrance, with
apparently a passage on each side of it ; but that on the N. W.
side, although there is a depth of 3 fathoms, is so choked with
weeds, that it was with difficulty a boat could pass. The other
channel has a depth of 5 to 4 fathoms, shoaling to 3 and 2$ in
the interior, in any part of which a ship may ride in perfect
security on fine sand, in a depth suitable to her draught. The
shores round this harbour are covered with thick wood, and rise
to a considerable height ; and there are two or three rocks above
water at its upper extremity. Fresh water may be obtained at a
little cove on the western shore.
NORTH PORT, according to the plan of Messrs. Jouvency and N^-th Port.
Beautemps Beaupr6, is about one third of a mile wide at the
entrance, but increases to two thirds immediately within : it
extends northward nearly 1 \ mile, with a depth of 5, 4, and 3
fathoms to three quarters of a mile above the entrance, at a mode-
rate distance from the shores. A small rock above water, named
the Pearl, lies in the entrance, about one tenth of a mile from
the east point, between which, in mid-channel, there are from 5
to 6^ fathoms water, on mud, with 2| fathoms near the PEARL,
and also near the point: this channel, although narrow, is easy
to discover ; the eastern point is very safe, and 9 feet water will
be found at half a boat's length from the shore. In entering,
steer in from the south-eastward towards the PEARL, until a
small point of remarkable rocks, and which you must approach
* D'Entrecasteuux's Atlas, PI. 4.
t The depths in this channel nre all reduced to Rnglish fathoms.
E E
210
D'Entrecas-
tcaux's Chan'
nel.
Soundings in
Recherche
Bay.
Rocks and
dangers off
Recherche
Bay.
VAN DIEMEN'S LAND SOUTH-EAST COAST.
close to, is abreast of you. You will then leave on the starboard
hand a bank of weed, which is connected with the rocks at the
bottom, in the centre of which are only 2| fathoms water. You
will steer for the Observatory Point in such a manner as to keep
it open on your starboard bow : this point is safe, and may be
rounded as close as you please ; but you must not go so far to
the westward of it as to open the PEARL ROCK outside the south-
ernmost point of land.
The sloping shores of this excellent harbour are covered with
thick wood, and the water is so smooth, that it is scarcely agitated
with the most violent winds. Its general depth is about 3
fathoms, with a black muddy bottom, in which the anchors bury
themselves, and ships may ground without any danger. The
Recherche and Esperance anchored about one sixth of a mile
N. by E. from OBSERVATORY POINT, in 3f fathoms. Fresh
water may be obtained on the west shore. From a 'mean of
several observations, OBSERVATORY POINT was found to be in
lat. 43 32' 17" S. Var. 7 39' E. 1792.
The western coast of RECHERCHE BAY is bordered by a chain
of rocks, at somewhat less than a cable's length from the shore ;
and at the distance of a cable and a half, from 3 to 4 fathoms were
found : further to the eastward, and near the north part of the
bay, there is a bank of weed. With the PEARL ROCK bearing
north, there were 6 fathoms, on sand and gravel ; a little further
eastward 7 fathoms, increasing to 12 and 13 near the ship's
anchorage in the bay.
Some rocks, according to the chart of M. Beautemps Beaupre",*
lie off the north point of RECHERCHE BAY, extending a consider-
able distance from the shore, some of which are even with the
surface of the water, and others tolerably elevated : through these
the boats passed when proceeding to the northward. Nearly a
mile to the eastward of these rocks is a reef on which the sea
breaks, with a depth of 13 fathoms near its south end ; and
between these are 15 fathoms. The reef bears from POINT
ARTHUR N. 55 E. distant 1| mile ; and nearly a mile farther in
the same direction, is another rock about a mile distant from
D'Entrecasteanx's Atlas, PI. 4.
VAN DIEMEN'S LAND-SOUTH-EAST COAST. 211
the coast: between these and the coast, there are from 8 to 10 D'Entrecaa-
fathoms water. <' s Chan '
About 5 miles N. E. by E. from POINT ARTHUR, and 2 miles
in nearly the same direction from the rock last mentioned, is the
northern end of the STERILE ISLES (now named ACTJEON ISLANDS, sterile or AC-
from a vessel of that name having been wrecked near their south tseon Islands%
end). These are joined at low water; they are about a mile in
length, and have a reef projecting to the southward. About l
mile S. 17 W. from the STERILE ISLES, and 3| miles N. 75 E.
from POINT ARTHUR, is an islet or rock (now called CHARLES'S
ISLE), from which a reef and breakers appear to extend more than
half a mile to the east, west, and south.
Captain Horsburgh, Hydrographer to the East India Company,
is in possession of a survey of the south part of D'ENTRECAS-
TEAUX'S CHANNEL, in which the position of these rocks and
dangers differ considerably from those above stated. It was
made by Captain J. Welsh, in 1825 ; and on the supposition that
his meridian line therein is magnetic, 9 east variation has been
allowed, in order to reduce the bearings to the true meridian.
According to Captain Welsh, the north end of ACTION ISLAND
lies 7 J miles N. 48 E. from POINT ARTHUR ; and CHARLES'S
ISLE lies 5| miles E. N. E. from the same point : the former dif-
fering 2 miles in distance, and 8 more northerly in bearing ;
the latter, 2^ miles in distance, and 6 or 7 in bearing. A reef
stretches a mile to W. S. W. from CHARLES'S ISLE, and patches
of reefs and breakers extend nearly 4 miles to the south and
S. S. E., and one mile to the east of it : the S. E. extremity of
these dangers lies E. J N. 6 miles, and the S. W. extremity
E. N. E. 3 miles from South-East Cape, leaving a passage
between them and the shore, of 3 miles in breadth. Captain W.
places POINT ARTHUR in lat. 43 37' S., which is nearly 3 miles
to the southward of the position assigned to it by the French
surveyors ; the latter, from observations made on the point, saw
BRUNY HEAD bearing N. 66 E. true, distant 10 miles ; by
Captain W.'s chart it bears N. 60 E. distant 16 J miles, differing
6 in bearing and 6| miles in distance.
Nearly 2 miles from POINT ARTHUR, in a direct line towards
BRDNY HEAD, is the S. W. end of a bank of rock-weed, which
VAN DIEMEN'S LAND SOUTH-EAST COAST.
extends thence in the same direction 1 mile : this patch or bank
Chan- is about 1 1 mile broad, and is marked in the chart with 7 fathoms
on it. About 1 1 mile N. by E. from it is the south end of a
rocky reef, which extends in the same direction nearly a mile :
between these there are 5 or 6 fathoms water : this reef lies about
a mile from ELIZA POINT. Between this rock-weed bank and
the reef that stretches to W. S. W. from CHARLES'S ISLE, the
channel is 1J mile wide.*
Musei Bay. About 6 miles north-eastward of RECHERCHE BAY, according
to the French chart,t is MUSCLE BAY, having 3 islets or rocks off
its southern point, the southernmost of which is called ROCHE
BLANC. MUSCLE BAY is about 2J miles deep to the westward,
with 14 fathoms in the middle, and 6 fathoms near the shore on
the south side. To the southward of some islets or rocks that
lie well up the bay, there are 4 or 5 fathoms, on fine grey sand.
Westward of these islets the water is shallow, and there is a
narrow channel which communicates with a lagoon to the N. W.
Close to the north point of this bay, named POINT ROSSEL, is a
small rock above water, from which CAPE BRUNY, on BRUNY
ISLAND, bears S. 59 E. distant 5| miles.
Enp-ranca ESPERANCE BAY. >rx miles and a half N.N. Eastward from
Ba - r - MUSCLE BAY, is the entrance of ESPERANCE BAY, about 1 \ mile
wide, and more than 4 miles deep, first in a N. W. and then in a
S. W. and west direction. This bay was surveyed by M. Jou-
vency, by whose plan J it appears that at three quarters of a mile
within the entrance there is a small island; named LAHAYE, of
half a mile in extent, and covered with trees; with a small islet
lying near to its north side ; between which and the north point
of entrance there are from 15 to 7 fathoms water. LAHAYE
ISLAND lies about half a mile from the south coast; and in the
channel between are from 15 to 25 fathoms water, with sand and
* Since this survey was made, another rock has been discovered, lying N. W. by
N. from the inner island of ACTION'S REEF, a little more than half way to the main,
and in a large bed of kelp : the rock is about 20 yards long, with only 3 feet water
on the top, 5 fathoms abreast, and 12 fathoms 100 yards from it. This rock, lying
as it does in the passage, may be avoided by keeping close to the island, till the
black rock to the westward bears W. N. W. Sydney Gazette February 27, 1828;
f D'Entrecasteaux's Atlas, PL 4 and 6.
J D'Eutrecasteaux'j Atlas, PI. 1
VAX DIEMEN'S LAND SOUTH-EAST COAST. 213
muddy bottom, where a ship may be sheltered from all winds. D'Entrecas-
S. W. from the island is a narrow but deep bay, bordered by high ne ^
mountains, and closed by a sort of ravine. At the bottom of this
bay there is a rivulet of excellent water, sufficient for the supply Fresh water,
of several vessels. There are 7 fathoms in the entrance, 4^ in
the middle, and 2| at the bottom ; and also sufficient shelter for
heaving a vessel down. To the north-westward of LAHAYE
ISLAND about three quarters of a mile is an islet, accessible only
upon its S. E. side, all the other parts being bordered by reefs
which extend about a musket shot's distance ; and about half a
mile to the N. W. of this islet is a rivulet upon the northern
coast, the water of which is brackish and muddy, and also diffi-
cult to be obtained. W. N. W. \ W. nearly a mile from LAHAYE
ISLAND, is a point of land projecting northward ; behind which
there is a small gully, where a vessel may anchor completely
landlocked ; but the water here shoalens suddenly.
HUON RIVER. The entrance of this river is 4 miles N. N. E.
\ E. from the north point of ESPERANCE BAY, and is about \\
mile wide ; it extends 7 miles N. W. by W., and then takes a
N. by E. direction to nearly the same distance. On the north
side of this river, at about \\ mile from the entrance, is PORT DE
CYGNE, or SWAN PORT, of which M. L. Freycinet gives the Swan Pori.
following description : " Its extent in a north and south direc-
tion is upwards of 4 miles, upon a width considerably less : many
deep bays present themselves on both sides, with all the neces-
sary accommodation for the safety of vessels. Its coasts,
although a little elevated, are, in general, steep : their declivity
is gentle, and the remarkable fertility of the soil offers every
where the most enchanting and varied appearance. In several
places natural quays are formed, easy of access for the largest
vessels, or even for the purpose of careening. The middle of
the harbour has from 3% to 7 fathoms water, upon a mud and
sandy bottom ; and with the exception of the interior of some of
the bays, a depth of less than 3 to 4 fathoms is seldom found at
a musket shot's distance. The only river of any importance that
we found there, and the only one that appeared to us to possess Fresh water,
fresh water all the year, is the river FLEURIEU ; but its opening is
marshy and obstructed by a bank of sand, which prevents its
214 VAN DIEMEN'S LAND SOUTH-EAST COAST.
D'Entrecas- approach. It is, however, probable that streams may be found
te x ' s Chm- - n gome O f tne bayg w hj cn border upon the entrance of this port ;
for in this district there are a great number of ravines, and it is
likely that some of them serve for the beds of permanent
rivulets." *
HUON ISLAND, according to the chart, t lies directly off the
entrance of the above river ; and li mile further east, is a small
perforated rock, called the ARCH. J From the same island to
SATELLITE ISLAND, it is 3 miles E. S. E. ; and to ISLE AUX
PERDRIX, or PARTRIDGE ISLAND, about 6 miles S. 26 W. From
SATELLITE ISLAND to POINT RICHE the bearing and distance are
N. 34 E. 5| miles ; from POINT RICHE to CAPE LE GRAND,
N. 4 W. 4 miles ; and to VERTE (or GREEN) ISLAND, north, 2
miles. From CAPE LE GRAND to POINT GREQUELthe distance
is 5 miles N. 8 E. ; and thence to POINT PIERSON 3 miles, N.
38 E : between these points there is a large bay, named KORTH-
WEST PORT. POINT PIERSON, on the main, and CAPE SORTIE,
the north end of BRUNY ISLAND, form the north end of D'ENTRE-
CASTEAUX'S CHANNEL; the former lying north-westward of the
latter about three quarters of a mile.
NORTH-WEST PORT is an irregular quadrilateral : its opening
is 2 miles wide, and depth 5. The two points at the entrance are
high and rocky, but the other parts of its shores are much less
elevated, and every where easy of access. M. Freycinet says,
" Many rivers discharge themselves in its southern part : the
most considerable one, which appeared to have its source in
MOUNT TABLE, served us as a watering-place. Its entrance is
divided into two branches, obstructed by many banks mixed
with large trunks of trees, rendering the approach difficult even
for small boats. We only succeeded in getting about 100 casks,
and even that with difficulty : after all, the water of this river is
not of a good quality, although in cases of necessity it is
drinkable."
Having spoken successively of the bays, &c. on the west side
* Freycinet Terr. Aust. p. 34.
f D'Entrecasteaux's Atlas, PI. 4.
{ " Nous passames pres d'un rocher trou^, qui formoit une espece d'arcade."
Pot/age d'Entrecasteaux, tome i. p. 71.
VAN DIEMEN'S LAND SOUTH-EAST COAST. 215
of D'ENTRECASTEAUX'S CHANNEL, M. Freycinet proceeds to D'Entrecas.
teaux's Chan-
give some description or those on the east side, formed in the nei.
shores of BRUNY ISLAND. This island, he says, is about 9 leagues Bruny island.
long, and of very irregular form, having several isthmuses, the
most remarkable of which separates the bay of this name from
that of ADVENTURE on the east side of the island. The land is
unequally elevated ; some parts, rather high, are remarkable for
their geological character. CAPE CANNELE, or FLUTED CAPE, Fluted Cape.
among others, and that part of the coast which is joined to it to
the southward, presents to the eye an abrupt cut, which appears
composed of immense basaltic columns. Vegetation is vigorous
every where, and proves the fertility of the soil.
Many deep bays on its shores afford good anchorages ; GREAT Great Cove,
COVE, LITTLE COVE, ISTHMUS BAY, and that which runs to the anJ^Snui
N. E. of CAPE LE GRAND, all on the west side of the island, are Ba J r -
capable of receiving the largest vessels. GREAT COVE, says
M. Freycinet, is spacious, and consequently but little sheltered
from the winds. He anchored at its entrance one mile to the
eastward of PARTRIDGE ISLAND : the S. W. wind which blew at
this time incommoded him a little ; however, the sea was not
rough; and this anchorage would answer very well, if finer ports
were not in the neighbourhood. The coast on the outside of the
ISLAND BRUNY presents two remarkable bays: one, called BAD BadBa and
BAY, is exposed to all the fury of the S. W. winds ; the other,
called by Furneaux ADVENTURE BAY, is, on the contrary, an Adventure
excellent place for shelter with the winds from that quarter. At Bay '
all seasons an abundance of fresh water is found.
D'ENTRECASTEAUX'S CHANNEL. The soundings in the middle Sailing Direc-
of this channel, according to M. FREYCINET, are from 6 to 23 t!
fathoms, on a black muddy bottom : the navigation is not difficult ;
and if provided with the plans of Beautemps Beaupre,* it may be
navigated either by night or day without fear. The only danger
that exists, is an extensive bank which lies along the coast abreast
of POINT RICHE, facing ISTHMUS BAY : it does not extend far out ;
and though no marks are given, yet, knowing its general posi-
tion, it may be easily avoided. " In the run that we made
A reduced plan will be found in the Australian Atlas, PI. VI.
210 VAN UIEMEN'S LAND -SOUTH-EAST COAST.
D'Entrecus- from GREAT COVE to NORTH-WEST PORT, we met with rery
nei? contrary winds, which appeared to follow the direction of the
mountains : when we passed abreast of the valleys we met with
very strong gusts, and a moment afterwards it was quite calm
an inconvenience common to lands of this description. At our
various anchorages, we always found much trouble in weighing
our anchors, in consequence of the tenacity of the muddy bottom
which every where exists. In GREAT COVE, for instance, when
the aqchor was hove up, there was found upwards of 1000 pounds
weight of hard black mud, which the motion and wash of the sea
did not detach. Yet, notwithstanding this considerable resistance
of the bottom, we frequently dragged our anchors, although we
were riding with a long scope of cable."
" Of all the anchorages in which we were in this channel, none
were exempt from inconveniences : GREAT COVE and NORTH-
WEST PORT are too large to afford, at all times, shelter from the
winds. SWAN PORT would be a sure and valuable refuge in the
event of wanting to refit ; but fresh water is rare and difficult to
procure, and after all, not of a good quality." This is not the
case with the harbours in RECHERCHE BAY.
From the Remark Book of His Majesty's ship Rainbow, the
Hon. H. J. Rous, Captain, who went through D'ENTRECAS-
TEAUX'S CHANNEL in her passage to Hobart Town, in February,
1827, we extract the following description, &c. : " The entrance
of this channel (on the west side) is bounded by a dangerous
reef (the Acteon), or rather several reefs of rocks under water.
These reefs, which are in form like a horse-shoe, are very
extensive, and the eastern elbow of them bears from the South-
East Cape E. \ N. by compass full 6 miles. Therefore ships
entering this channel from the south-westward, after passing the
South-East Cape, should steer about E. \ S. 7 miles at least,
or until CAPE BRUNY bears N. by E. by compass ; they will
then be to the eastward of the reef, and may haul in N. N. W.
provided the wind be from the westward. But should the wind
be from the southward, they may steer N. by W., as that course
VAN DIEMEN'S LAND-SOUTH-EAST COAST. 217
(made good) will lead nearly in mid-channel, in from 15 to 20 P'
' tca
fathoms water, as far up as PARTRIDGE ISLAND, where this chan-
nel turns off to the north-eastward, and is free from danger all
the way up to the entrance of the Derwent. There is nothing
to fear, even with a working wind ; but if the wind should be
from the westward and blowing strong, which it generally does
when in that quarter ; it will be necessary to close reef the top-
sails, as the squalls come down from the mountains in tremen-
dous gusts. " About 6 miles W. by S. from CAPE BRUNT and
east of LAGOON POINT, is a small island with some straggling
rocks under water on the east side : this island should not be
approached nearer than one mile at least.
Captain J. Welsh, of whose sketch of the south part of this
channel we have spoken in page 211, in his instructions for
navigating in it, says, " This channel, which affords at once the
safest shelter for shipping, perhaps in the world, is not to be
recommended as a passage for ships bound to HOBART TOWN,
except in the summer season, when dependence may be placed
on the sea breeze, as the following observations will demon-
strate.
" In making the land from the westward ships have frequently
taken this passage, as affording immediate anchorage, secure
from all winds ; but they are likely to be detained several days
before they can reach HOBART TOWN. The detention is caused
by the direction given to the wind, even when it blows strong at
sea from the S. W. by the very high hills and deep openings
that line the western coast of the channel ; such as SOUTH PORT,
(MuscLE BAY) ESPERANCE BAY, the HUON, and the opening to
the river above GREEN ISLAND, each of which gives a respective
or distinct course to the wind.
" Upon standing in for this channel, it has been the usual
practice for ships to sail to the eastward of the reef that lies
athwart the entrance, on which the Action was wrecked ; but,
though this is the widest channel, that to the westward is pre-
ferable, as the difficulty above stated, may in most cases be
there overcome. A north-easterly course will take a ship through
the latter to PARTRIDGE ISLAND; but to gain this from the
eastern channel, the course would be north-westerly.
' FF
218 VAN DIEMEN'S LAND-SOUTH-EAST COAST.
D'Entrecas- ^he channel between the ACTION REEF and the western
teuuz't Chan-
nel. shore, I found on examination, to be perfectly clear, with the
exception of a ridge of rocks that lies in the direction of the
passage, about a mile from ELIZA POINT : close to these rocks
there is 5 fathoms water. Between the above-mentioned rocks
and ACTION'S REEF, there is a good passage, with 8, 9, and
10 fathoms clear ground, from one to two miles broad. Se-
veral patches of rock-weed will be met with here, but as they
only denote foul ground, and not shallow water, the mariner
need not be alarmed.* Many pieces of this weed are from 15
to 20 fathoms long, and the least depth of water is from 5 to 7
fathoms.
" Having entered the channel, which commences between
POINT ARTHUR and CHARLES'S ISLAND, the southernmost of the
ACTION ISLES to the eastward, the course should be directed to
pass the ridge of rocks above-mentioned, either to the east or
to the west ; and leaving two small rocks on the larboard hand,
the channel formed by the high land of MUSCLE BAY and BRUNY
ISLAND is entered, where there is good anchorage in 10, 12, and
14, fathoms water.
" A patch of rock-weed lies to the N. E. from MUSCLE BAY,
on which I did not sound, it being too far to the westward to
interrupt the course of any ship sailing up the channel. The
South-east Cape should be rounded at 1 or 2 miles distance :
the ship will then be within the outer reef, and there will be no
danger, but what can be seen.
" RECHERCHE BAY affords good shelter for shipping, that may
by stress of weather, when going round the island to the west-
ward, be obliged to seek a harbour ; there is an abundance of
fish and fresh water ; but in sailing into the bay the larboard
shore should be kept on board, and a ship may then anchor well
up the bay, in 3 or 4 fathoms water."
CHARLES'S ISLAND, the outermost of the cluster that lies
within the reef, would be a desirable situation for a lighthouse ;
to guide vessels through this channel, when they fall in with the
land during the night; being the only part of the coast where
* See, however, the note at the bottom of page 212.
VAN DIEMEN'S LAND SOUTH-EAST COAST. 219
any danger exists that is likely to prove fatal ; this island forming D'Entrecas-
4 v i c J.T- teaux's Chan-
the eastern shore of the passage. netf
" The erection of such an establishment has been strongly
recommended to the Lieutenant Governor ; and I trust that an
object so much required, will, ere long be completed."
" Experience, however, proves that the passage to HOBART
TOWN by STORM BAY is preferable. I have, in several voyages
to this colony, found great advantage by taking this ., and
strongly recommend all commanders to follow it."
From CAPE BRUNY to TASMAN'S HEAD the bearing and dis-
tance are S. 79 E. 8 miles. TASMAN'S HEAD is high and
abrupt, being composed of basaltic pillars ; and nearly a mile to
the southward of it there are several islets named BOREEL'S ISLES,
three of which produce some vegetation. The two easternmost,
called the Friars by Captain Furneaux, are bare pyramidal
rocks, and except where they are made white by the gannets,
are of a black weather beaten colour : a patch of breakers lies
one mile to the N. E. from them.
From TASMAN'S HEAD to CAPE PILLAR the distance is 35 storm Bay.
miles in a N. E. by E. direction. Between these points is the
entrance to STORM BAY, in the N. W. corner of which, between
CAPE SORTIE, the north end of BRUNY ISLAND, and CAPE
DIRECTION, lies the mouth of the RIVER DERWENT. Seven miles
north-eastward from CAPE DIRECTION is the mouth of NORTH
BAY, leading to PITT WATER and NORFOLK BAY. On the Adventure
western shore is ADVENTURE BAY, the south point of which,
named FLUTED CAPE, is high, steep, and projecting, composed
of basaltic columns, and covered with trees : and adjacent to its
northern part is PINGUIN ISLAND, of moderate height, and also
covered with trees. This was surveyed by the French in 1793,
who give the latitude of PINGUIN ISLAND in 43 20' 38" S. The
ship anchored nine tenths of a mile S. W. by W. W. from
PINGUIN ISLAND in 1 1 fathoms water, at the distance of four
cables from the point ; near which are two rivulets of fresh water.
His Majesty's store-ship Coromandel, James Downie commander,
anchored here in 1820, in a depth of 13 fathoms, on sandy bot-
tom, with PINGUIN ISLAND, bearing E. S. E. g E., by compass,
distant half a mile, and CAPE FREDERICK HENRY N. by E. $ E.
FF2
220
VAN DIEMEN'S LAND- SOUTH-EAST COAST.
Storm Bay.
Hirer Der-
went.
Hobart Town.
This bay abounds with wood and water, but difficult to be
obtained from the heavy surf, which generally breaks upon the
beach ; but it is a good place of shelter from S. W. and westerly
gales of wind.
RIVER DERWENT. -The entrance of this river between CAPE
SORTIE and CAPE DIRECTION is about 2 miles wide, and continues
of the same breadth for 5 miles, to the south point of Double
Bay, which extends 6 miles north and south, and 2 in depth ;
with an entrance of 1 1 mile wide, and the soundings from 7 to 2
fathoms.
HOBART TOWN stands on the west bank of the river, about
10 miles from CAPE SORTIE ; it is situated on a gently sloping
plain, at the foot of the MOUNT TABLE, and is nearly a mile
in length from north to south. FORT MULGRAVE, on the south
point of SULLIVAN COVE, (the port of HOBART TOWN) Is in
latitude 42 53' 35" S.; and the variation of the compass,
9 10' E.*
Lieutenant C. Jeffreys says that ships from the westward,
bound into the DERWENT, through STORM BAY, ought to give
TASMAN'S HEAD a good berth in order to avoid the islands and
rocks lying off it, before described. In proceeding northward
past FLUTED CAPE, the most remarkable object will be the
MOUNT TABLE, which is very high, and in appearance resembles
the Mountain of the same name at the CAFE OF GOOD HOPE.
In advancing up the bay, BETSEY'S ISLAND which is high,
soon appears in sight, and will enable you to steer for a small
rocky islet, named the IRON POT, between which and CAPE
DIRECTION there is only a boat passage. Having now entered
the DERWENT, steer about N. by W. for a low sloping point on
the larboard hand, and when abreast of it the town will open in
view to the westward. Ships may anchor as near to the settle-
ment as they please; but one anchor should be laid well out to
the S. E. for the convenience of getting under way.
There is no danger all the way up, and ships may stand
within half a cables' length on either side : the holding ground is
good in every part, and the depth of water no where exceeds 18
fathoms. The anchorage is called SULLIVAN COVE, although it
* Remark book of H. M. S. Satellite, M. J. Currie Commander, March 1823.
VAN DIEMEN'S LAND SOUTH-EAST COAST. 221
is merely a bend of the land ; but the low sloping point before Storm Bay.
mentioned shelters the shipping from the sea ; though there is a
long fetch from the S. E., which, when it blows hard from that
quarter, causes a short breaking sea. The Coromandel Store-
ship anchored here at about one third of a mile from the landing
place, with the spire of the church in HOBART TOWN, S. 77 W. by
compass ; and the flagstaff in FORT MULGRAVE S. 7 W. distant
three quarters of a mile: great difficulty was experienced in
weighing the anchors. Merchant ships generally anchor in the
coves, the anchorage is good any where off the town in from 12
to 9 fathoms, on soft mud ; but care must be taken to give the
Jetty where the wharfs are, a good berth, as there is a ledge of
rocks extending to the eastward a cable's length, over which
there are only 10 feet at low water.
RISDON COVE is 4 miles higher up the DERWENT, in a
N. N. W. direction, and the river becomes contracted in breadth,
to less than half a mile.
The TIDES in this river, and all throughout D'ENTRECASTEAUX'S Tidei.
CHANNEL seem to be very irregular ; at times they rise 8 or 10
feet, at others 4 or 5 feet, and sometimes there is said to be no
fall of tide for two or three days together. The stream is
likewise irregular, but the ebb in general runs at the rate of 2
or 3 miles an hour. Captain Flinders surveyed the RIVER
DERWENT, in December 1798, and in speaking of the tides, he
says " In RISDON COVE the tide rises between 4 and 5 feet,
which is more by at least a foot than at the entrance cf the river.
The time of high water is about 8 hours after the Moon's passage
over the meridian, or one hour later than in Adventure Bay.
In the narrow parts above SULLIVAN COVE, the tides run with
tolerable regularity, and with some degree of strength; but
towards the entrance of the river, the water at the surface
sometimes ran down twelve hours together, and at other times
as much upwards, whilst the rise and fall by the shore were at
the usual periods. These anomalies were probably occasioned
by the wind, and seemed not to extend far below the surface ;
for I found a counter current at the bottom."
BETSEY'S ISLAND is about 2| miles to the eastward of CAPE Betey'lsiand.
DIRECTION, and according to Captain Flinders, is high, and
222
VAN DIEMEN'S LAND SOUTH-EAST COAST.
Storm Bay,
Soundings In
Storm Bay.
Sea and Land
breezes.
accessible only towards its north end : its length is a mile, and
mean breadth about half a mile. Two flat rocks lie near the
main to the northward of it ; and at three quarters of a mile to
the southward of its south point, there is a dangerous rocky reef.
The ground in STORM BAY, consists of fine red sand, with
black specks, mixed with small broken shells. The depth of
water at half a mile from CAPE RAOUL is 50 fathoms, whence it
gradually decreases towards BRUNY ISLAND, there being in the
middle of the bay 35 fathoms ; and in a direct line from thence
about N. by W. to BETSEY'S ISLAND, it shoalens gradually to
25, 16, and 12 fathoms. In crossing towards the DERWENT, the
bottom becomes muddy, which is generally found to be the case
where there is any run of fresh water.* This is corroborated by
the remarks of Mr. R. Skinner, who commanded H. M. Store-
ship Dromedary, in January 1820: he says "in approaching
BETSEY'S ISLAND, the water shoals gradually, from 40 to' 30, 20,
and 10 fathoms. Between CAPE FREDERICK HENRY and CAPE
PILLAR, there are from 45 to 50 fathoms, on sandy bottom ; so
that in calms or light winds, ships may if necessary, anchor with
a Stream or Kedge until they get a breeze. During a great part
of the summer season, when the weather is fine and settled, sea
and land breezes generally prevail, the land breeze coming off
between 8 and 10 o'clock: both these changes are preceded by
The following appeared In the Sydney Gazette of October JO, 1827. "It Is
worthy of remark, that the sand banks in some parts of the DERWENT are shifting,
and in others gradually accumulating. The water is now more shallow between the
northern end of BRUNY ISLAND and IRON POT ISLAND by some feet, than as surveyed
and laid down in 1803, by Captain Flinders. We doubt not the propriety of a
regular survey of the entrance of the river, will soon be apparent to government.
In a dark night or foggy weather, the bottom as laid down in charts, and ascertained
by vessels heaving the lead, is almost the only guide. It was but the other day that
the Denmark Hill in a similar state of weather, got abreast of the Settlement nt
MARIA ISLAND, Captain Foreman thinking he was coming up the DERWENT, until
undeceived by Major Lord the Commandant, who went on board the vessel. Thera
is the same depth of water in the channel, as between IROX POT and BBTSKY'S
ISLANDS, which would appear to have been the cause of the mistake in the late
wreck of the Hope. A ship in the situation in which that unfortunate vessel was
does not get into shoal water, until she is so close into danger that sbe cannot
escape it, the banks fall off so abruptly ; but if surveyed, and the distinguishing
marks of the bottom clearly laid down, these dangers might always be avoided,"
VAN DIEMEN'S LAND-SOUTH EAST COAST. 223
an interval of calm or light airs, for two or three hours.* The Mo Ba v-
navigation seems perfectly safe and easy even for strangers, as
there appears, as far as my observations and enquiries enabled
me to judge, no danger in entering, or sailing up or down the
RIVER DERWENT, by daylight. CAPE DIRECTION appears at a
short distance like a low island.
Ships coming in from the eastward, after rounding CAPE PILLAR Approach from
the Eastward.
and CAPE RAOUL, should steer over towards CAPE FREDERICK
HENRY, and sail up along that shore, which is a direct guide to
the entrance of the RIVER DERWENT. If with a beating wind,
work up along the same shore, in order to> avoid the outset from
NORTH BAY, which with a N. W. wind is strong.
Should the wind come to blow hard from the N. W. when off
BETSEY'S ISLAND, so as to prevent a ship from working into the
river, she may obtain sood anchorage either in ADVENTURE BAY
or NORTH BAY ; and as Captain Flinders anchored in the latter
under similar circumstances, on the 15th of December 1798, it
seems advisable to give his description of it.
NORTH BAY. This Officer says, " The wind being at N. W. North Bay.
we passed SLOPING ISLAND (Isle St. Aignan of D'Entre-
casteaux,) and steered north-eastward to explore the inlet.
After running 3| miles with soundings from 13 no bottom to 5
fathoms, we anchored under a small island which lies S. 75 W.
l mile from POINT RENARD, the uppermost station of the
French boats. This small spot received the descriptive name of
ISLE of CAVES, and lies in the passage from NORTH BAY to a
large extent of water which appeared to the eastward, and which
the French boats did not explore.
" From the ISLE of CAVES we ran 6 miles E. S. E. up the new
bay, for SMOOTH ISLAND. The width of the entrance, from
Point Renard to Green Head is 2 miles : the soundings are
from 6 to 16 fathoms, and there are no dangers. SMOOTH ISLAND,
behind which we anchored in 4 fathoms, is three quarters of a
mile long.
" December 16. We anchored 2 miles to the S. E. of SMOOTH
ISLAND, in 6 fathoms, near a point of the main. In the evening
* The land and sea breezes prevail from November to April : from January to
March, the N. W. winds come in very hard squalls. Satellites' Remark Book.
224 VAN PIEMEN'S LAND- SOUTH EAST COAST.
Storm Bay. W e shifted our berth to the north side of the point ; between
which, and an islet lying half a mile from it, the depth was from
5 to 7 fathoms.
" December 18. The wind still blowing fresh from the west-
ward, we worked up to SMOOTH ISLAND, and then stretched
over to the south side of the bay. The soundings were generally
9 fathoms, on mud and sand, to within a mile of the shore ; and
at half a mile, where the anchor was dropped, the depth was 4
fathoms. We then steered northward along the west side of
the bay, with soundings from 8 to 4 fathoms. In the evening,
we had worked back into NORTH BAY, and come to an anchor
under the N. E. end of SLOPING ISLAND.
The great eastern bay now quitted, had never been entered
till this time ; and as it proved not to be FREDERIK HENDRIK'S,
I have named it NORFOLK BAY. It is about 8 miles long, north
and south, and 3 to 5 miles broad from east to west. The
largest fleet may find shelter here, with anchorage on a good
bottom, of 4 to 9 fathoms deep.
" In NORTH BAY, the upper part seemed to be circumscribed
by a sandy beach, and to offer nothing of particular interest ;* we
therefore steered downward for the DERWENT RIVER, but rainy
squalls coming on from the south, ran for a small beach on the
western shore, and anchored off it in 2| fathoms. On the
following day proceeded round for the DERWENT, and passed
between BETSEY'S ISLAND and the two flat rocks near the main,
with from 5 to 9 fathoms water ; in which depths the gigantic
sea weed grows up to the surface."
Ships bound to sea from the DERWENT, and caught in STORM
BAY with a south-easterly gale, may find safe anchorage in the
north entrance of D'ENTRECASTEAUX'S CHANNEL, between the
north end of BRUNY ISLAND and POINT PIERSON, in 9 fathoms
water, on good holding ground, with the Farm on BRUNY
ISLAND, called KELLY'S FARM, bearing E. byN. by compass.
Captain Flinders finding he could not beat against a strong S. E.
wind in the bay, ran into this channel, and anchored in PRUEN
COVE, in 4 fathoms. Here a small creek was found, in which
* There is however, in the north part of this bay a narrow entrance into a large
bay or lagoon, named PUT WATER.
VAN DIEMEN'S LAND SOUTH-EAST COAST. 226
the water was fresh, at a few hundred yards above where it falls storm, Bay.
into the cove.
On the east side of STORM BAY, QUOIN ISLAND/ of about half
a mile in length, lies off QUOIN BAY, and in the N. E. part of the Q uo j n Bay.
latter, BARNETT HARBOUR, all of which have been explored by
Captain J. Welsh. According to his sketch it appears that
Quoin Bay is about I mile wide, and 2 miles deep, in an easterly
direction, and terminates in a low sandy shore, with shoal water
to a considerable distance. Two islets, which do not seem to
have been closely examined, and some rocks, extend from its north
side ; and besides being shoal, it is exposed to westerly winds.
The entrance into BARNETT HARBOUR is about a quarter of a mile Bamett
wide, and above a mile in length north-eastward, with 12 fathoms
in the middle, and long kelp near the shores on either side. The
harbour takes a S. E. direction, and the soundings decrease
gradually to 6 and 4 fathoms, with mud bottom. Captain W.
says, " This harbour is easy of access, and will afford shelter for
small vessels only; its head is surrounded by sand-banks.
Fresh water may be procured, but with some difficulty. The
tides are very irregular, and the rise, at two days after full moon,
was 3 feet 9 inches, but from the appearance of the shore it may
be more."
Although these bays are small, yet from their position near
the entrance of the Derwent, they may often be found useful to
small vessels, when strong adverse winds prevent their reaching
that river.
From CAPE RAOUL to CAPE PILLAR the distance is 9 miles
N. 80 E. Between these two high columnar capes, the shore
falls back, and forms a bay, which has also been explored by
Captain J. Welsh, and named by him PORT ARTHUR. He Port Arthur,
places it about 3 \ miles north-eastward of Cape Raoul, and
makes the entrance about two-thirds of a mile wide, from whence
it extends northward about 3 \ miles. The eastern shore is nearly
straight, but on the west side there are some good coves, capable of
affording excellent shelter for the largest ships : the first of these
is named SAFETY COVE, the next OPOSSUM BAY, in the N. W.
part of which there is a little creek, called Stewart's Harbour.
The depths are from 26 fathoms in the middle, to 8 or 7 on each
GG
F. B.
226 VAN DIEMEN'S LAND EAST COAST.
side. Captain W. says, " This harbour, affording shelter for any
number of shipping, is easy of access. The bays on the west
side afford good anchorage ; fresh water is easily procured ; it
abounds with fish of various descriptions ; and excellent timber
of gum, stringy bark, lightwood, and sassafras, in great quantities,
can be had conveniently. With the exception of Safety Cove, all
the bays are surrounded, at the head of them, with soft banks of
sand and mud, most of them dry at low water. The irregularity
of the tide prevented me from ascertaining the rise and fall; but
I suppose it to be about 4 feet." The harbour is surrounded by
an amphitheatre of lofty mountains, which extend from Cape
Raoul to Dolomien Bay, and form a sort of barren chain or
barrier, about three miles from the shore.
DESCRIPTION of the EAST COAST of VAN DIEMEN'S
LAND.
THE coast from CAPE PILLAR to CAPE PORTLAND occupies a
space of about 52 leagues ; the former according to lieutenant
C. Jeffreys, is in latitude 43 14' S. and is the most remarkable
land on the coast, being a succession of perpendicular columns
of basalt rising to a great height, and there forming a flat
surface. A high Island of similar appearance lies close to the
southward of the cape, and between them there is a narrow
passage. M. Freyciriet in his description of this coast, says,
Cape Pillar. "Near to CAPE PILLAR is TASMAN'S ISLAND of a black and
rugged aspect ; it is of considerable height, and entirely rocky
and sterile. Cape Raoul, Cape Pillar, and Cape Haiiy, as well
as Tasman's Island, appear to be formed of a multitude of rocky
columns ; the high neighbouring lands of Cape Pillar are in
general without wood, but to the north-west there is an appear-
ance of vegetation.
Dolomieu Bay " DOLOMIEU BAY which is not more than a mile broad at its
entrance, is terminated by a remarkable white sandy beach. The
sea appeared smooth,but we were not convinced that the anchorage
was good ; and it could only be tenable with land winds, there
being no obstacle to those from the sea.
VAN DIEMEN'S LAND EAST COAST. 227
" MONGE BAY is large and very open, and is separated from Monge B(.J .
Norfolk Bay by a low isthmus. From CAPE SURVILLE, the
north extremity of Monge Bay, to CAPE FREDERIK HENDRIK, Capo Frederik
the shore is high and steep, and the coast offers neither anchorage
nor shelter, as the sea breaks every where with violence.
Between this last cape and that of Bernier, is MARION BAY,
a large open road, practicable only in the south part. Marion Bay.
" From CAPE BERNIER to POINT RESSAC the coast is of
moderate height, and indented with shallow sandy bights which
may be approached with off-shore winds. The one nearest to
Cape Bernier, in this case, will be found the most convenient.
From Point Ressac to the entrance of PORT FREDERIK
HENDRIK which lies in the S. W. angle of the bay, is a flat sandy Port
beach, where landing is dangerous at all times, and impossible Henddk.
with winds from the sea, an enormous surf breaking more than
two cables' length off. A mountain torrent pours through this
beach, but in the rainy season only.
" The breakers which ^are at the entrance of Port Frederik
Hendrik, appear to render the channel difficult ; it has, however,
not less than 3 fathoms water ; and by ranging tolerably close to
the reef off the outer point, and then closing the eastern shore,
deeper and smoother water will be found. This port can be
useful to vessels of a small tonnage only ; the soundings being
irregular and every where shallow ; in the south part, where they
appear to be deepest, we had only 3 fathoms, and the port is
otherwise obstructed by extensive banks, which dry at low
water. The shores are high, and form several small peninsulas
and deep bays. A single rivulet of fresh water was found in the
S. E. part of the port ; but a boat cannot approach within a mile
of it. The many dry torrent beds however show that there is no
want of water in the rainy season.
" Wood may be had here, and plenty of fish may be taken on
the large bank at the entrance. The country is of the same
description as that in D'Entrecasteaux's Channel, and apparently
inhabited. It was not possible to make any correct observation
of the tides, but they rise about 4 feet, and produce a current, at
the entrance, of nearly 2 knots.
There is, however, a little rocky bight, called Blackman'i Bay.
228
VAN DIEMEN'S LAND EAST COAST.
Oyster Bay.
Maria Island. " MARIA ISLAND lies N. E. from the Bay of Marion and is
separated from Van Diemen's Land by a channel of about a
league broad. Its length from south to north, is 12 miles ; and its
greatest breadth about 7 miles ; but it narrows toward the middle,
where it forms a low and sandy isthmus, which separates Oyster
and Riedl6 Bays on opposite sides of the island.
" In entering the above channel from the southward, there will
be found from 30 to 25 fathoms ; but the depth diminishes
quickly, to 9 or 8 fathoms, at the place of our anchorage, abreast
of OYSTER BAY. In this bay the greatest depth is not more
than 3| fathoms, and generally not more than 2 or 3, with a white
sandy bottom.
" The POINT LESUEUR and POINT MAUGE,* forming the
extremities of Oyster Bay, are very low, but the coast rises
in going to the southward, where it is steep and rocky. The
south and east coasts are all of granite, abrupt, and rise like a
wall of 200 to 300 feet in height, with some caverns in which the
water breaks with a loud noise. From CAPE MAUROUARD the
coast lowers gradually as far as the point contiguous to the
isthmus, where a landing may be effected with the wind offshore ;
but further to the northward, the approach to the coast is
prevented by a dangerous bar. The soundings in the bottom of
this bay are from 10 to 15 fathoms, fine sand ; but near the
land, and towards the N. E. the bottom is of rock, with not more
than 5 or 6 fathoms. RIEDLE BAY would be a very bad
anchorage for vessels who intend to remain any length of time,
being entirely exposed to wind and sea from south to N. E.
" From CAPE MISTAKEN to CAPE BOULLANGER the coast is
high and steep, but from thence to POINT LESDEUR the land again
becomes low and wooded.
" We were at Maria Island," says M. Freycinet, " in the
driest season of the year, it is therefore not astonishing that
fresh water was scarce. The watering places in Oyster Bay
were entirely dry ; but we discovered two near the point of
Tombeaux in Riedle" Bay, which run sufficiently in all seasons :
M. Freycinet places Point Maugg in 42 41' 62'( S. and 148 15' E. of Green-
wich. The variation 9 8' E. in 1802. Mean Temperature at noon, in February,
83 (Fahrenheit.)
Hiedlt! Bay.
VAN DIEMEN'S LAND -EAST COAST. 229
the westernmost Is the most convenient and yields the best water ;
but in order to embark it, you must anchor at the entrance of the
bay, which is dangerous. The soil of this island is excellent,
and very deep in the valleys. Oysters, lobsters, and muscles
are abundant, and the former are of an extraordinary size ; but
other species of fish are scarce, particularly at the beginning of
winter.
" During our stay at this anchorage, the winds blew from all
points of the compass ; those from N.N.E. to S.S.E. being the
most constant, and from S.S.W. the strongest ; and we often
had rain and fog, without being able to observe whether they
were regulated by the direction of the prevalent winds.
" CAPE BERNIER which lies in latitude 42 46' 5" S. and cape Bemier.
nearly on the same parallel as the southern extremity of Maria
Island, is high and very remarkable for its conical shape. From
thence to the northward as far as POINT GALETS, the coast is
steep, with 6 or 7 fathoms water close to it ; and beyond this
last point there is a bay of shingle, which serves for the outlet of
a marshy pond.* The shore then rises and again t falls to a low
point with a sandy bank in front, and nearly opposite to an island,
which, from its position between, in the channel, is named
MIDDLE ISLET. It is of an oval form, its greatest diameter
being about 1 20 toises, and the least 65. It is encircled with
large rocks and shingle, and has neither tree nor shrub. The
soil however, which covers the face, of the granite rock of which
it is formed, appears to be of a good quality ; and a species of
fine long cow-grass, which for cattle is an excellent pasture,
grows there in abundance.
" Two miles and a half N.W. from Middle Islet, there is a
steep cape ; and from thence a high rocky coast, trending to the
N.W. about 5 miles, leads to an opening of a mile in breadth,
which is the entrance of PORT MoNTBAZiN.t The extent of this port Mont-
harbour is inconsiderable, in consequence of a great mud-bank, bazin '
on which there is not more than 1 or 1 \ fathoms water ; a vessel
may anchor in its entrance in from 5 to 9 fathoms water, on
* Now called Sandspit River.
+ The bay from whence Port Montbazin branches off is now called Prosser Bay,
from a river of that name falling into it.
230 VAN PIEMEN'S LAND -EAST COAST.
muddy bottom, but not sheltered from the southerly winds, which
are so violent in this region.
" Many salt rivers that swell with the rains, have an outlet in
this port, and at the time of exploring it, in February, there was
no fresh water. The land in the neighbourhood is marshy and
without trees ; but in the interior of the country, the woods
appear to multiply, and vegetation to resume its force. A chain
of mountains' runs in the direction of N.E. and S.W. ; but they
are 4 or 5 miles from the coast.
" From PORT MONTBAZIN to CAPE BOUGAINVILLE, the coast
for an extent of 5 miles, is steep and almost inaccessible, with
not less than 13 fathoms close to the shore. From thence to
CAPE BAILLY the land is less elevated, but still steep and
wooded like that to the southward.
" PHOQUES ISLAND, just 2 leagues off shore, is a sterile rock.
At two boats' length to the westward there are 13 fathoms, and
27 at a mile distance. The Sea-lions on it were innumerable.
Fieurieu Buy. " CAPE BAILLY forms one extremity of FLEURIEU BAY. The
depth from North to South of this spacious opening is 15 miles,
and its breadth 10. Its north part is low and sandy, and though
higher and steeper to the westward, it is no where inaccessible.
The eastern side of this bay is formed by FREYCINET PENINSULA
and SCHOUTEN ISLAND, which are separated by GEOGRAPHE
STRAIT. We did not sound in the middle of the bay, but, judging
from what we had upon its coasts, good anchorage may be found
every where. In fact the road is entirely open to the southward.*
" Freycinet Peninsula, and Schouten Island are high, steep,
and sterile toward the sea, but low and wooded on the western
side. Cape Tourville is also high, and these alternate mountains
and isthmuses, give this part of the coast, at sea, the appearance
of a chain of islands. The southernmost Isthmus is 1| mile
long and half a mile wide ; a pond of fresh water which is formed
by the rains, occupies the greatest part of its surface ; and is only
separated from the sea on its western side by an interval of 25
* Between 2 and 3 miles N. N. westerly from Cape Bailly is the entrance of a
small river, called Little Swan Port, fit only for boats ; and in the N. E. angle of
Fieurieu Bay is another river, named Great Swan Port: its direction is westward
from the entrance which is very narrow.
VAN DIEMEN'S LAND EAST COAST. 231
toises of sandy downs : the pail which is not occupied by the
pond is tolerably thickly wooded. The two bays to the westward
of the Isthmus, offer good anchorage ; and REFUGE ISLAND, Refuge Island.
which is in the entrance of the best of them, is of moderate height,
well wooded, and affords some shelter. A vessel anchored there
will procure wood with facility, and plenty of water from the
above pond, and there is a small stream of excellent water on
the southern part of Schouten Island, where a boat can easily
land.
" From CAPE TODRVILLE to CAPE LODI, the coast is rocky
and barren ; but towards ST. PATRICK'S HEAD it appears to be
well wooded, and rising higher near ST. HELEN'S POINT, presents
several remarkable points of a pyramidal shape in the interior.
Off this point there is a ledge of rocks above water, which stretch
out to seaward about a league.
" MAUROUARD ISLAND lies a short distance to the southward Manrouard
of St. Helen's point ; it is about a mile in diameter, and affords
some fresh water ; and in case of absolute necessity a ship
might anchor in 18 fathoms on its western side.
" EDDYSTONE POINT is still more lofty than St. Helen's Point,
but from thence the mountains recede into the interior, and the
coast taking a N.W. direction, to CAPE PORTLAND sinks into a
low sandy beach, upon which the sea breaks with fury.
" Two groups of extraordinarily formed rocks may be remarked
i this interval ; the northernmost is abreast of CAPE NATURAL-
ISTE, from which it is about a league distant. At first sight they
have every appearance of being two large villages, the steeples
of which are represented by the summits of the pointed rocks.
" We often observed on this coast that the sea rose imme-
diately with the wind, and calmed as quickly when the wind
lulled: and this effect appeared to us to depend upon the
currents."
232
AUSTRALIA EAST COAST.
Winds and
Weather.
Currents.
WINDS, WEATHER, and CURRENTS on the EAST COAST
of AUSTRALIA.
From CAPE HOWE, where the south coast of Australia termi-
nates and the east coast commences, to SANDY CAPE, within a
degree of the tropic, the south-east trade-wind most generally
prevails in the summer season, or from the beginning of October
to the end of April ; and produces sea and land breezes near the
shore, with fine weather. There are, however, occasional inter-
missions of this rule, especially in the southern parts, where gales
from the south or S. W., as well as strong breezes between
north and N. E. bring heavy rain, with thunder and lightning, but
these are usually of short duration. A sultry land-wind from the
N. W., in the summer, is almost certainly followed by a sudden
gust from between S. E. and S. S. W., against which a ship near
the coast should be particularly guarded : and its effect on the
atmosphere is so immediate, that Captain Flinders says he has
seen the thermometer descend, at Port Jackson, on one of these
occasions, from 100 to 64 in less than half an hour.
In the winter season, from May to September, the western
winds are most prevalent, and are generally accompanied with
fine weather ; the gales come from the eastward, between N.E.
and south, and bring rain with them ; indeed there is no settled
weather in the winter, with any winds from the sea, and even with
N. W. and north winds there is frequent rain, though they are
usually light when in that quarter. It is, however, to be under-
stood, that the sea and land breezes in the summer are more
regular near the tropic ; and that the winter winds partake more
of the S. E. trade there than they do from latitude 30 to Cape
Howe.
Tt is a singular fact, that while the prevailing winds are from
the S. E. in summer, and from the S. W. in winter, the current
almost constantly sets to the south along this part of the east
coast, and at a rate which sometimes reaches two miles an
hour. Its greatest strength is felt near the points which project
most, and its usual limits may be reckoned at from four to twenty
AUSTRALIA-EAST COAST. 233
leagues from the land. Further out there seems to be no con-
stancy in its direction ; and close in with the shore, especially in
the bights, there is very commonly an eddy setting to the north-
ward, from a quarter to one mile an hour. It is along the
southern part of this coast that the current runs the strongest ; and
towards Cape Howe it takes a direction to the eastward of south ;
whereas in other places it usually follows the line of the shore.*
This exposition of the winds and currents, beyond the tropic,
points out the advantage of keeping at not more than 3 or 4
leagues from the land, when sailing northward, and intending to
touch on the coast ; but in the winter season this must be done
with caution, because galeg then often blow from the eastward.
A marine barometer will be of singular advantage; for if the Barometer,
weather be tolerably fine, and the mercury do not stand above
30 inches, there is no probability of danger ; but when the
mercury much exceeds this elevation, and the weather is becoming
thick, a gale is to be apprehended, and a ship should immediately
obtain a proper offing. With respect to the rise and fall of the
barometer, it may be taken as a general rule upon this east coast,
that a rise denotes either a fresher wind in the quarter where it
then may be, or that it will veer more to seaward ; and a fall
denotes less wind, or a breeze more off the land : moreover, the
mercury rises highest with a south-east, and falls lowest with a
north-west wind, and north-east and south-west are the points of
mean elevation.
A ship sailing along the coast to the southward, should not, to
have the advantage of the current, come nearer than 5 or 6
leagues, unless towards the projecting points ; and if the distance
were doubled, so as to have the land just in sight, the current
His Majesty's Ship Rainbow, in her passage from Van Diemen's Land to Port
Jackson, in Feb. 1827, experienced an easterly current, which set her 30 miles in
21 hours.
In a passage from Port Jackson to Moreton Bay in June the same year, she sailed
on the 14th, and on the two following days experienced a southerly set of 21 and 12
miles. Returning to Sydney, had a southerly set of 13 miles per day for three
days ; and on July 1st, in lat. 34 24' S., long. 152 37' E., experienced a southerly set
of 31 miles. On the 2d, lat. 34 34' S., long. 152 6' E., had a set S. 4&- E. GO miles,
with the wind S. W., W.S. W., and West, :i heavy gale ; and on the 3d had a set
S. 40 E. 14 miles. On the 5th anchored at Sydney.
HH
234
South-east
trade-win J.
AUSTRALIA-EAST COAST.
would be found equally strong, and the offing would obviate the
danger of the gales.
While western winds prevail on the southern part of the east
coast, the south-east trade blows regularly within the tropic,
producing sea and land breezes near the shore, with a serene
atmosphere ; and in advancing to the northward, the fine weather
becomes more permanent, till at Cape York, the trade commences
in the beginning of April, and extends to the middle or end of
November.*
The EAST COAST / AUSTRALIA, from CAPE HOWE to
PORT STEPHENS.
t
Cape Howe. CAPE HOWE, the S. E. point of Australia, is situated in lat.
37 30' S. long. 150 7' E. : it is a low point of rocks and sand,
with a small island close to it. It may be known by the trending
of the coast, which is nearly west on one side, and north on the
other, and also by some round hills in its vicinity. N. 14 E.
distant 5% leagues from Cape Howe is GREEN CAPE, which is
smooth and sloping, with a deep bight or bay to the southward.
From Green Cape the coast trends N. 17 W. 6 miles to
Haycock Point, and thence N. 50 W. about 3 miles to RED
POINT, on the south side of the entrance of Twofold Bay, the
shore being all along bold, and mostly rocky.
Twofold Bay. TWOFOLD BAY was surveyed by Captain Flinders in October,
1798; he places Snug Cove, which is situated in its N, W.
angle in lat. 37 4' S. long. 150 3' E. The shores of this bay
are .of moderate elevation, and consist of steep heads, rocky
points, and sandy beaches.
This officer says, " Twofold Bay is not, of itself, worthy of
any particular interest ; but as nothing larger than boats can find
shelter in any other part of this coast, from Comer Inlet, or
from Furneaux's Isles to Jervis Bay, in 35 6' lat., it thereby
becomes of importance to whalers, and to other ships passing
along the coast.
" Besides its latitude, Twofold Bay may be known by Mount
Dromedary, which, in moderately fine weather, may be seen at
Flinder's Terra Australis, Vol. ii. pp.283, 4, mid 5.
AUSTRALIA EAST COAST. 235
the distance of 15 or 16 leagues to the northward ; and also by
the land behind the bay lying more in hummocks than elsewhere.
One of these hummocks is round, and much higher than the rest ;
and when it bears S. 60 W. (S. W. J W. nearly by compass,)
a course for it will bring a ship into the middle of the bay. On
approaching, a look-out should be kept for two rocks, rather
pointed, of which one lies off the outer north, and the other off the
outer south point. SVUG COVE is difficult to be distinguished s "g Cove.
by a stranger ; but on getting near the rocky head, at the south-
west end of the long northern beach, it will be seen on the south
side of that head, and the anchor must then be ready to let go.
If the wind be from the southward, it should be dropped a little
before the head shuts on with the south point of the bay, in 5 or 6
fathoms water, and in veering away, the lead should be kept out
astern of the vessel. There is room for two or three small
ships in Snug Cove, but not for more.
" Wood, in abundance, can be procured on every side of the
bay ;but there are only two places where fresh water was found,
and that not very good. One of these was a swampy pond upon
the low neck behind Snug Cove, where casks might be filled
without much difficulty ; the other is near the inferior anchorage
on the south side of the bay ; and both are indicated in the par-
ticular plan."*
The southern anchorage is not so well sheltered as Snug Cove,
for the Nautilus surveying vessel was not quite land-locked in 3
fathoms water.
" The ponds and lagoons, which are to be found at the back of
most of the beaches, are frequented by ducks, teal, herons, red-
bills, and pome small flights of the curlew and plover ; and the bay
appeared to be well-stocked with fish. The tide rises 6 or? feet,
and it is high water about nine hours after the moon passes over
tho meridian. The variation of the azimuth compass observed on
thebearh was 9' 29', and of the surveying theodolite, 11 8' east."
At the distance? of 7 leagues to the northward of Twofold Bay Barmouth
C . i c J.
is the south point of Barmouth Creek, the intermediate coast being
of moderate elevation, and bending a little westward, with three
islands contiguous to it. The above creek is thus mentioned in
See the Plan, in the Chart of Terra Australis, South Coast, sheet VI., published
at the Hydrographical Office.
336 AUSTRALIA-EAST COAST.
Flinder's voyage. " A strong wind, which burst from the south,
obliged Mr. Bass (in a whale-boat) to run for a gap in the land,
which had just before been noticed. Here, on a little beach, at
the mouth of an inlet, across which the sea was breaking, the
boat was hauled up for the night. Next morning, the inlet being
free from breakers, he entered the prettiest little model of a
harbour he had ever seen. Unfortunately it is but a model ; for
although the shelter within be complete for small craft, yet the
depth over the bar is too small even for boats, except at high
water, when there is 8 or 9 feet."
From Barmouth Creek to Cape Dromedary the bearing and
distance are N. 14 E. 26 miles : the coast gradually declining in
height, and terminating in a low sandy shore. All 'the coast
between Cape Howe and this promontory may be safely ap-
proached to a reasonable distance, as soundings extend to the
distance of 3 or 4 leagues.
CAPE DROMEDARY is a projecting head-land, with a double
mountain over it, which, from its figure, was named by Captain
Cook MOUNT DROMEDARY : it is of considerable elevation, and
may be seen at the distance of 20 leagues. The Cape is in lat.
36 18' S., and about 6 miles to the eastward of it lies Montague
Island, of nearly 2 miles in length, from north to south, with a
depth of 12 fathoms near its west side, where ships may anchor,
but on a rocky bottom. There are some rocks near the S. W.
end of the island.
From the Cape the coast trends N. by E. about 10 leagues to
Bateman Bay. BATEMAN BAY, which is about 2 leagues in width, and contains
several islands. A fine, clear, and capacious river, with 9 feet
water on the bar, and, deepening within to six fathoms, empties
itself into this bay ; and Lieutenant R. Johnstone, R. N. in 1822,
carried a depth of 7 to 4 fathoms, upwards of 20 miles within the
' bar. Lieutenant Jeffreys says that small vessels frequently take
shelter behind one of these islands, but that it would be an impru-
dent risk for a stranger, except in a case of absolute necessity.
Three leagues N. N. E. from the north point of Bateman Bay
Point Upright, is POINT UPRIGHT, so named by Captain Cook on account of its
perpendicular cliffs : it is in latitude 35 35', and from it to Cape
Ueorge the bearing and distance are N,E. nearly 11 leagues.
There are a few small islands in the interval ; and a little
AUSTRALIA-EAST COAST. 237
way inland a remarkable peaked hill, named the Pigeon House pigeon House,
by Captain Cook, from its resemblance to a dove-house with a
dome at its top : it is situated in latitude 35 20|' S.
The coast from Mount Dromedary is of a moderate height,
forming alternately rocky points and sandy beaches ; but high
mountains are seen in the interior, which, except two, are
covered with wood : these two lie inland behind the Pigeon
House, and are remarkably flat at the top, with steep rocky cliffs.
CAPE GEORGE, in latitude 35 10' S. is to the southward of
the entrance of Jervis Bay; and is, (says Lieutenant Jeffreys) Coast about
the best landfall to make on this coast, particularly in thick or
hazy weather, when ships are uncertain of their latitude ; it being
no more than 25 leagues from Port Jackson. The land to the
southward, between Cape George and the Pigeon House is low
and thickly wooded, with sandy beaches, and a bold clear
shore. The north head of the bay, named Point Perpendicular,
is formed of high cliffs, with a flat summit, and neither tree nor
shrub. The coast, for 3 or 4 miles to the northward has a similar
appearance ; but gradually decreases in height, and abruptly ends
in a point.
JERVIS BAY"* extends about three leagues from north to Jervis Bay.
south, and nearly 2 leagues in breadth. The north point of the
entrance, according to Lieutenant Jeffreys, is in lat. 35 6' 28"
S., and the south point is formed by a small low island lying
contiguous to Cape George, between which there is a passage,
though a very bad one. The entrance is about li or 2 miles
wide, with a depth of 15 to 20 fathoms ; and within, the soundings
are regular from 14 to 10 fathoms, decreasing to 8 and 7 fathoms
near the shore on either side. There is sufficient room for ships
of any size to work in or out ; but there are some dangers, to
avoid which we havo no marks to offer. A sunken rock lies about
one and one-third mile within the north point of the entrance,
and a mile distant from the shore. A ree/projects from Rocky
Point, to the northward of the rock just mentioned ; and,
indeed, from Mr. Weatherhead's sketch, it appears that reefs
* This bay was discovered by Lieutenant R. Bo\ven, on August, 19th 1701, and
afterwards explored by Mr. Matthew Weatherhead, of the ship Matilda, employed
in the South Whale Fishery. See his Plan published at the Hydrographical Office.
2S8
AUSTRALIA EAST COAST.
extend from almost all the points in the bay. The course in is
about \V. N. W. fresh water may be procured on the western
side, between Cabbage-tree Point and an inlet to the northward.
There is good anchorage in the N. E. part of the bay, in 7 or 8
fathoms water, off a long sandy beach. Here H. M. Sloop
Satellite, M. J. Currie commander, anchored during a S. E. gale
of wind, in February, 1823, in 7 fathoms, perfectly land-locked.
But Lieutenant Jeffreys says, " The best and most convenient
anchorage is from 6 to 10 fathoms, under Boiceiis Island. Give
this island a moderate berth before you haul up : the north shore
is steep too. There is very excellent water on the island, close
to the beach ; and this bay abounds with fish. Though so close
to Port Jackson, the natives are very treacherous and cruel ; no
boat ought to land without being armed, and on their guard
against a surprise." This spacious bay seems to be deserving
of an accurate survey.
A few miles to the northward of Point Perpendicular, is the
north point of the peninsula that forms the east side of Jervis Bay ;
Crook Havtn. and the bight behind it is named Crook Haven, which is sepa-
rated from the bay by an isthmus of not more than 400 yards
across. From thence to Point Bass the distance is 5 leagues ;
and about half-way there is a small port, but the entrance is
choked with sand, and the interior with banks of mud, leaving,
however, a sufficient channel for boats. The discoverers called
Shoal Httven. it Shoal Haven, and found that the tide rose there 6 or 8 feet ;
with high water at full and change, at half-past 8 o'clock. About
2 miles further northward Shoal Haven River disembogues.
The land to the southward of this river is low. and to the north-
ward, of considerable elevation, but declines again to a eandy
flat, towards Red Point, which is about 4 leagues X. by E. J E.
from Point Bass. All the coast, from Jervis Bay to Red Point,
may be approached with safety.
Red Point. RED POINT, so called from the dull red colour of the cliffs and
rocks of which it is composed, is in latitude 34 29' S., and 35
miles N. E. from Point Perpendicular. Captain Flinders says
that there are four hillocks on it, which present the form of a double
saddle ; and it may also be readily known by a remarkable hill,
about 8 miles W. N. W., which from its form was named HAT
AUSTRALIAN AST COAST. 239
HILL by Captain Cook. There are two rocky islands off the
point ; and at a short distance to the northward another group
called Afartiti's Isles : there is also a shoal hereabout. From Martin's Isles
Red Point to Cape Solander the bearing and distance are N. by E.
| E. 29 miles, in the first 20 of which there does not appear to
be any opening in the coast ; but at Wattamoulee, a small cove, Wattamoult*.
protected by a reef of rocks, afforded a refuge to Captain Flinder's
boat in very trying circumstances. He says that large boats may
find good shelter and fresh water there, except with the wind
from S. E. by E., the bearing of the extremity of the reef, to
E. N. E. the bearing of the north head of the cove.
About a league further to the northward brings uS to PORT Port Hacking
HACKING, or DEEBAN, of which no survey or satisfactory de-
scription has reached this office : yet, from Flinder's account it
appears to have 3 fathoms in the entrance, to divide into three
branches, and to carry from 3 to 8 fathoms water in the middle
one, at the distance of two miles from the sea.
The shore continues low and sandy, for 5 or 6 miles from Red
Point ; and to it succeed some coal cliffs ; and about 3 leagues to
the southward of Cape Solander there is a range of whitish cliffs,
which extend some distance further south. The land over these
is moderately high and level, with a small clump of trees
ii{)on it.
CAPE SOLANDER, in latitude 34 0' 45" S., longitude 151 15'
50 ' ' E. forms the south point of the entrance to Botany Bay,* Botany Bay
and CAPE BANKS the north point. The narrowest part of the
entrance is about half a mile, and lies in a north-westerly
direction, the depth of water decreasing gradually from 16 or 18
fathoms outside, to 6, 5, and 4 fathoms within the bay. To sail
in, keep about mid-channel, between the heads, until fairly
within them, then haul over a little toward the northern shore,
and anchor in 5 or 6 fathoms.
Round the shores of this extensive bay the water is very shoal,
generally from 4 to 10 or 12 feet. Although the anchorage
fronting the entrance is of considerable extent, where ships may lie
in from 4 to 7 fathoms water, there is no shelter from easterly
winds ; and when these blow from the S. E. a heavy sea rolls!
* See Plan annexed to Sheet I. of the East Coast of Australia.
240 AUSTRALIA EAST COAST.
into the bay, rendering the anchorage unsafe. Fresh water is
also scarce on the shores that bound the lower part of the bay.
It is high water at full and change at 8 o'clock, and the tides rise
from 5 to 7 feet.
Port Jackson. PORT JACKSON* is a safe and excellent harbour; a ship may
run in between the heads without fear, for the passage is clear,
the coast pretty steep on both sides, and as the sea breaks on the
rocks, even in fine weather, it shows all those that are a little
detached from the shore.
On the OUTER SOUTH HEAD stands the Lighthouse, or
Macquarie Tower; but the reasons for choosing this situation
for it, in preference to the North Head, are not very obvious ; as
on the latter it would seem to be more conspicuous at sea, and
more useful in taking an anchoring berth at night. The light,
which revolves, is said to be 350 feet above low water, and visible
at 10 or 12 leagues distance. According to Captain P. P. King,
its latitude is 33 51' 11" S., and being 4' 30 ' E. of Sir T. M.
Brisbane's observatory at Sydney, its longitude is 151 19' 45"
E. of Greenwich. On the same high ridge, and about | mile
more to the northward, stand a flag-staff and semaphore, which
communicate with the town of Sydney, the chief settlement and
seat of government.
About 1| mile N.N.W. (magnetic) from the lighthouse,
the ridge breaks down to a low rocky point, called the INNER
SOUTH HEAD, from which a broad reef projects more than a
cable's length ; but, as from this point the INNER and OUTER
NORTH HEADS bear N. N. E. and N. E. by E. (mag.), and are
of a mile, and 1 mile distant, there is abundant room to work
into the mouth of the harbour. If the wind hang from the south-
ward, it would be imprudent for a stranger to work past the Sow
and Pigs, the only danger of importance in Port Jackson ; he
may therefore anchor any where between the Middle and South
Heads, according to the wind, and wait there for a pilot, who
readily comes on board, when the signal has been made in the
offing.
To sail in with a leading wind, steer for Middle Head, a pro-
* See small plan annexed to sheet I., <fcc, &c*, or Lieutenant Roe's Survey, pub-
lished at the Hydrographic Office.
AUSTRALIA EAST COAST. 241
jecting cliff that faces the entrance, until the harbour opens round Sow and p jggj
the Inner South Head, half a mile inside of which lies the Sow r Mid , dle
Ground.
AND PIGS, or MIDDLE GROUND. This is a bank of sand and
rocks about 400 fathoms in length, and lf>0 in breadth, its
length being in the direction of the harbour. A small portion of
it is dry, and consists of a few rocks, upon which the sea almost
always breaks ; they form the outer end of the shoal, and are in
the line of bearing of the Outer North and Inner South Heads.
The south-western tail of the bank is chiefly sand, with rocks
scattered about ; but on the greater portion of it there are 12
feet water, which gradually deepens to 3 fathoms, beyond the
rocky limits of the shoal. There is a safe channel on either side,
and the choice must depend on the direction of the wind.
To sail through the WESTERN CHANNEL, which is from one-
third to half a mile wide, steer towards George's Head, a high
rocky point about three quarters of a mile S. W. from Middle
Head ; but keep this point on the larboard bow, and the sea-
horizon well open, until you are within the line of bearing be-
tween a small sandy beach on the western shore and Green Point,
a grassy mound half a mile S. S. W. from the Inner South Head,
and forming the south-west point of Camp Cove. Then steer for
George's Head, and gradually round it ; and when you have
brought it to bear about west, steer boldly up the harbour. In
rounding Point Bradley, which is about 1 1 mile further in, you must
avoid a rocky shelf that runs off the point for perhaps half a cable's
length. You may pass on either side of Pinchgut Island; but
when hauling into Sydney Cove, a wide berth must be given to a
reef, which extends from point Bennilong for rather more than a
cable's length^ and which should not be approached nearer than
in 8 or 9 fathoms water, till the eastern side of the cove is
open to view.
To sail through the EASTERN CHANNEL, or to the eastward of
Cbanuel
the Sow and Pigs. After rounding the reef off the Inner South
Head, haul in towards Green Point, till the trend of the head is
in one with the summit of the Inner North Head, or about
N. N. E. by compass ; then steer S. S. W. till past Green Point,
when the course may be directed up the harbour.
If absolutely necessary to work through either of these channels
242 AUSTRALIA EAST COAST.
without a pilot, go no nearer to the Sow and Pigs than 3 J fathoms
at low water, unless the vessel is small, nor within a cable's
length of the shore, for although it is bold in most parts, yet
there are some straggling rocks off the south point of Watson's
Bay^ and also round Shares Island.
There is good anchorage in all parts of the harbour, when
within the Middle Head. There is also anchorage in North
Harbour, .but not to be recommended, for the swell sometimes
roils heavily in there; but no swell can affect the anchorage
between Middle Head and the Sow and Pigs.
Sjdnej Cove. SYDNEY COVE is nearly half a mile long and 200 fathoms
wide, and would contain more than 20 ships swinging at their
moorings. The shores are bold too, and, excepting the rocky
shoals that extend off Point Bennilong and Point Duwes, ships
may approach very near.
On the eastern side of the cove there is a convenient place for
heaving down : it belongs to government, but merchant ships
may use it, by paying a small sum, according to the length of
time it is occupied. Wood is easily obtained on tlii north shore
of the port, where it may be cut close to the beach ; and water,
which is collected in tanks, is abundant, except during a very dry
season.
The tide rises from 6 to 8 feet, and at full and change it is high
water in Sydney Cove at half-past 8 o'clock, but at the Heads it
precedes this time by a quarter of an hour. The variation of the
compass observed at Sydney Cove, in 1822, was 8 42' E., at
Garden Island, 9 6', arid at Camp Cove, 9 42'.
If a ship, bound to Port Jackson, should, from want of obser-
vations, be uncertain of her latitude, and fall in with the land
either to the southward or northward of it in blowing weather,
she may find shelter in Botany Bay or in Broken Bay, as circum-
stances require. The former is about 4 leagues to the south-
ward, and the latter about 5 leagues to the northward of Port
Jackson ; and it is of the utmost consequence that such ships as
may happen to be in bad condition, and unable to keep off shore*
should be aware of these useful places of refuge. Botany Bay
has been already described.
AUSTRALIA EAST COAST. 243
BROKEN BAY.* In latitude 33 44' S. and about 5 leagues to Broken Bay.
the northward of Port Jackson is the South Head of Broken Bay,
so called from the appearance of the shores, the coast between
being high and rocky, with bluff heads of land, and very few sandy
beaches. The entrance may be easily known, by the land pro-
jecting from the North Head to a considerable distance eastward.
Here the Hawkesbury, the most considerable river yet discovered
o)i this part of the coast, falls into the sea. The distance between
the South and North Heads is one mile and a half, and a narrow
bar of 5 fathoms extends from one to the other. On approaching
it from without, the depths are 12, 10, 8, and 6 fathoms, to 5 on
the bar ; and immediately within, there are 6 and 7 fathoms. This
bay contains several excellent anchorages ; particularly PITT put Water.
WATER, on the south side, close within the South Head : the
entrance to it, however, is contracted by a shoal bank, which
extends from the eastern side full two-thirds across ; but leaving
the western side comparatively bold. The narrowest part is
abreast the West Point, the depth there being only 3 fathoms at
low water, and shoaling gradually towards the bank ; keep,
therefore, pretty close to the West Point, and having passed it,
the depth gradually increases to 8 and fathoms. Above the
second point on the western shore there is plenty of room with
deep water, so that a ship may run up in the mid-channel without
fear: both shores are there tolerably bold, except off some of
the points. There are several coves in Pitt Water, where ships
may conveniently lighten and careen. Wood and water may
be easily obtained in various parts of the harbour ; and fish may
be caught in all the sandy bays.
The SOUTH- WEST ARM is considered the best harbour for S. w.ann.
large ships ; it is separated from Pitt Water by a peninsula
formed of several rocky points, with steep high land over them,
and some small sandy bays between. About half a mile within
the bar, and opposite the mouth of this arm, there is a rocky
island, of small extent, but of great perpendicular height at the
east end, named Mount Etliot, which is a good mark for any part
of the bay. It is advisable for a stranger seeking shelter here
* See small plan annexed to Sheet I., East Coast of Terra Australis, published at
the Hydrographical Office.
244
AUSTRALIA EAST-COAST.
from a gale of wind, to steer for the island : it may be passed on
either side : but the direct passage to the S. W. arm is to the
southward of it. Keep about mid-channel between it and the
south shore, which may be approached to two cables' length. In
proceeding upward at that distance you will pass to the south-
ward of the Middle Ground or Bank, on which there is about 15
feet at low water, with a gradual decrease of depth towards it ;
and when the N. W. arm appears fairly open, you will be to the
westward of it. Here a ship 1 may anchor well sheltered. But if
it is intended to go higher up the S. W. arm, it is only necessary
to keep nearly in mid-channel, and the least water will be 5
fathoms for several miles. There are also some coves or inlets
extending from this arm, with a good depth of water for ships.
There is a channel on the north side of the Middle Ground, but
the south one is the widest and deepest.
N. W, arm. To enter the North-west Arm, after passing the Middle
Ground, steer for the western side of its entrance, and run up by
it for some distance, in order to avoid a shoal, which extends
about two-thirds over from the east side, passing which the
channel turns to the north-eastward into a bay, and thence to the
north and westward. This branch has several inlets of a quarter
to half a mile in breadth, extending a considerable distance into
the country ; and the Hawkesbury River falls into it from the
westward, which is navigable by vessels drawing 9 feet water
Upwards of 4.0 miles from its mouth.
This river, although its banks are of considerable elevation, is
subject to Violent inundations during heavy rains, which are very
destructive to the valleys through which it runs. The ebb tide
generally runs tolerably strong in it.
There is a fourth arm of the bay, close within the north head of
the entrance, which extends northward, but it is shallow, and
navigablb only for boats and small vessels.
On full and change it is high water at 8 o'clock, and the tide
rises from 8 to 8 feet.
Port Hunter. PoRf HUNTER* is 59 miles N. 22 E. from Port Jackson ;
Huwkesbury
River.
* See the Plan annexed to sheet I, East Coast of Australia, published at the Hy
drographical Oilice.
AUSTRALIAEAST COAST. 245
the Xobby, or Coal Island, which shelters the entrance, being in
32 56' S., and 151 43' E. There are but scanty materials for
giving directions for this harbour, but it is understood that a light- Li< ? hthouse -
house stands upon Coal Head, or the southern point of the entrance,
and that pilots are established who go off to vessels that arrive.
From Coal Island several reefs project more than a quarter of
a mile north, east, and south, but leaving a narrow channel with 3
fathoms water on its western side. The mark for this channel is
two small lights, kept in the same line, about S. S. \V. W.
(magnetic) ; one of them is placed on the outer end of a wharf
that projects from the town, and the other on the shore. The
channel does not appear to be a cable's length wide, and to the
westward of it there is a great extent of foul ground, on which many
vessels have been wrecked, reaches to the main land. The best
anchorage is about a cable's length N. of the wharf in 3 fathoms.
The above information is chiefly from a sketch by Lieutenant
Jeffreys in 1816, since which it is said that convicts have been
employed in connecting Coal Island with the light-house point by
a kind of breakwater, which will tend to direct the stream and
tide through the channel, and also to protect it from the surf and
swell, which, in a S. E. gale, renders the access to the harbour
difficult and dangerous.*
The town was formerly called King's Town, but it appears to
have been changed to that of New Castle, and Coal River has
partly superseded the more legitimate name of Port Hunter.f
On the full and change days of the moon, it is high water at
lOh. 45m., and the tide rises 6 feet.
From Port Hunter to Point Stephens the bearing and distance
are E.N. E. 8 leagues. Before reaching the latter there is
another projecting point in the same direction, at the distance of
Signals made to vessels in the offing :
A blue flag, pierced with a yellow square. Stand off to sea; it is not safe to approach
the harbour.
A yellow flag, pierced with a blue square. Stand in for the harbour, you may approach
with safety.
A white flag, pierced with a red square. Lay to for a boat.
A red flag, pierced with a blue square. The pilot boat has left the wharf.
From the Australian (X. S. Wales), Oct. lltb, 1827.
t King-, vol. ii. pp. 253,254.
246 AUSTRALIA-EAST COAST.
17 miles from Port Hunter; the land between forms a bay with
a low sandy shore, on which the surf beats at all times heavily,
and a ship may be lost in the Rollers, at the distance of 1 ? ; mile
from the shore. This must be particularly guarded against by
ships bound either to Port Hunter or Port Stephens. At the
eastern part of this bay the land is of considerable height, and
continues so to Port Stephens.
Cape Stephens. CAPE STEPHENS, according to the Hon. Captain H. J. Rous,
is in latitude 32 4?' 33" S. and longitude 152 11' 40" E. It
appears from the offing like an island, though joined to the shore
by a narrow neck of land, and may be safely approached within a
cable's length.
Two miles N. W. from the Cape, the entrance of Port
Stephens opens between two high headlands, called Yacubah
and Tomaree, which are N. E. andS.W. of each other, and
about half a mile asunder. The land about this part is very
remarkable, as the hills near its mouth, when seen from 6 or /
leagues to the south-eastward appear like a group of islands of
the form of sugar loaves ; and Yacilbah Head, which is a high
hill, is easily known by the low land and water behind it, and by
two small islands, which lie half a mile E. S. E. and N. E. from
its pitch.
Port Stephen? PORT STEPHENS is a basin of considerable magnitude, being
8 or 9 miles in length, and in some places more than 2 in breadth.
It is divided into two harbours of nearly equal size, by a long
tongue of land, called Soldier's Point. The Inner, or Western
Harbour contains many small islands, and unfortunately many
large shoals, leaving but a small portion on its ]S T . E. shore fit for
vessels of burden. The Outer Harbour, likewise, is intersected
by extensive shoals, but still leaving sufficient space for anv
number of ship?, and of any size; and its approach is rendered
difficult by a lank, which extends from Tomaree Head nearly
two-thirds across the entrance.
Mr. William Johns, master of H. M. S. Rainbow, surveyed
the harbour in 1828, and gives, the following directions:
Ships bound in with a leading wind, should steer for the south
side of the North or Yacabah Head, and when within a cable's
length of it, haul in about W. N. W. (magnetic) until the North
AUSTRALIAEAST COAST. 247
point of Tomaree, or the South Head, bears S. S.E. | E. : then
steer directly for Nelson's Head, which maybe passed within half
a cable's length, as it is steep to. After passing this head, keep
close along by the south shore, for the channel between Myall
Bank and Nelson's Bay, is little more than a quarter of a mile
wide; but there is nothing to fear in this part of the channel, with
a leading wind, even with a ship of the line, as the edge of the
bank shows itself at high water, and is steep to ; the shore is
also steep to. W. S. W. one and one-third mile from Nelson's
Head, and N. by E. from a red spot in the cliff, is a small patch
of only 12 feet, with 3 fathoms on its south side, and 7 or 8 to the
northward of it. The south land of Yacabah, just open of Nelson's
Heat/, will lead to the northward of this shoal pafcJi, in the best
channel. When the red spot in the cliff bears S. by E. you will
have passed it, and must haul in for the south shore, to avoid the
S. E. point of the West Sand Bank, which never shows itself even
at low water, except when it blows strong from the southward ;
then the shoalest part breaks. This part of the channel is, there-
fore, the most dangerous for a large ship ; the course through it
is about W. by S.and close along by the south shore, keeping the
lead going until Salamander Bay opens, or until Soldier's Point
bears W. N. W. | W. You will then be past all danger, and
may anchor any where, in from 8 to 12 fathoms, on mud, and in
smooth water.
The entrance to the Western Harbour is divided into two
Cliannds ; the northernmost is generally the most eligible, ex-
cept with a south-westerly wind. The spring-tides in both these
channels run 6 knots, and a ship must be well prepared to bring
up, as the anchorage immediately contracts to a small space, com-
pared with a large sheet of water that presents itself to the eye.
At the S. E. side of Farm Cove, or on the west side of the North
Arm, a ship of 1000 tons may anchor close to the shore. In other
parts of the harbour the tides run from 3 to 4 knots, so that a
ship may be dropped up with light winds ; but it would not be
safe for a large ship to pass Nelson's Head without a leading
wind.
The anchorage below Nelson's Head, is, with that point
248 AUSTRALIA-EAST COAST.
bearing S. S. W. | W., distant a quarter of a mile, in 7 or
8 fathoms; but a heavy swell rolls in here with southerly
winds.
Fresh water may be procured in several places.
On full and change it is high water at a quarter past 9 o'clock,
and the tide rises 8 feet .
The variation of the compass in 1828 was 1 E,
INDEX.
Acta3on'sReef,211,218.
Action, or Sterile Islands, 21 1 , 21 8.
Adventure Bay, 215, 219, 221, 223.
Albatross Island, 114.
Albion's Island, 81.
Alouarn St., Islands, 6, 7.
Althorpe's Isles, 63, 74.
Amsterdam Island, (Indian Oceay.) 1
Anchor Point, 10.
Ante-chamber Bay, 73, 75.
Antill, Mount, 194.
Anxious Bay, 40.
Arch Rock, 214. J*
' Arden, Mount, 59.
Arid, Cape, 25, 26, 27, 29.
Armstrong's Channel, 97, 166, to 1 70.
Arthur, Point, 210, 211, 218.
Arthur, Port, 25.
Arthur's Seat, 127.
Asbestos Mountains, 181.
Avoid Bay and Point, 45.
Bailly, Cape, 230. .
Babel Isles, 161.
Backstairs Passage, 66, 73 to 75.
Bad Bay, 215.
Bald Head, 9, 10.
Bald Island, 16.
Banks, Cape, 239.
Banks' Strait, 171.
Banks, West Cape, 83.
Barmouth Creek, 235.
Barn Hill, 59.
B&rnett Harbour, 225.
Barometer recommended, 3, 4, 185,
186, 187, 233.^
Barren Cape, Island, 163.
Barren, Cape, 164.
Barren Island, 117.
Barren Mounts, 18.
Bassr, Point, 238.
Bass' Strait, 9*,to 171.
- Directions for sailing
Eastward, 95.
" Directions fdf sailing
Westward, 97.
Bateman Bay, 236.
Baudin*k H Rocks, 78, 80.
Bauer, Cape, 38.
Bedout, Cape, 72.
Bell, Point, 33.
Bell's Rock, 97, 112.
Bennilong, Point, 241.
Bernier, Cape, 227, 229.
Bernouilli, Cape, 77.
Betsey's Island, 220, 221, 222, 224.
Birch's River, 199. ,
Bicker Isles, 52.
Blackman Bay, 227.
Black Pyramid, 113.
Bolingbroke,
Borda, Cape, 71, 72.
Boreel's Isles, 219.
Boston, Point and Island, 52.
Botany Bay, 239.
Botany and Broken Bays, places of
refuge, 243.
Boufflers, Cape, 83.
Bougainville, Cape, 230.
INDEX.
Boullauger Cape, 228.
Bowen's Island, 238.
Bradley, Point, 241.
* Breaksea Island, 13.
Bridgewater, Cape, 85.
Broken Bay, 243.
Brown, Point, 36, 38.
* Brown, Mount, 69, 66.
Bruny Head or Cape, 211, 219.
Bttiny Island, 208, 215, 222, 224.
Bushy Island, 195.
Cabbage Tree Point, 238.
Camp Cove, 241.
Cannele or Fluted Cape, 215.
Cape Barren Island, 163.
Carpenters, 84.
Casuarina's Reef, 22.
Catastrophe, Cape, 47, 63.
Caves Isle, 223.
Channel Bay, 190.
Chappell Isles, 164.
Chappell, Mount, 165.
Charles's Isle, 211,218.
Chatham, Cape, 7.
Circular Head, 183.
Clarke's Island, 97, 165.
Coal Head, (Van Diemen's Land})
200.
Coal Head and Island, (Australia,)
245.
Coal River, or Port Hunter, (Aus-
tralia,) 245.
Coffin's Bay, 44, 92.
Compass, variation of, see variation.
Condillae, Cape, 55, 56.
Conical Hill, 200.
Corner Inlet, 149, 234.
Corny Point, 02.
Corvisart Bay, 39.
Craggy Island, 162.
Crocodile Rock, 96, 153, 154, 155.
Crook Haven, 238.
Culver, Point, 30.
Currents, from Cape Leeuwin to
Bass' Strait, 4.
ID Bass' Strait, 94.
off the North Coast of Van
Diemen's Land, 172.
. off the West Coast of Van
Diemen's Land, 186, 187.
off the East Coast of Aus-
tralia, 232.
Curtis' Island, 95, 96.
Cuvier Bay, 117.
Cygne, or Swan Port, 213.
Dalrymple, Port, 98, 176 to 181.
. ..... Directions for, 178,
Dangerous Reef, Spencer' t Gulf,)
51.
Davey, Port, 203.
Decasn's Islands, 76.
Deeban, or Hacking, Port, 239.
Denial Bay, 35, 36.
D'Entrecagteaux's Channel, (Van
Dieman's Land), 208.
Direc-
tions for, 215, 224.
D'Entrecasteaux's Point, ( Austra-
lia,) 7, 8.
Derwent River, 217 to 224.
. Directions for, 220.
D'Estaing Bay, 84.
Devil's Tower, 153.
De Witt, Mount, 203.
Direction, Cape, 219 to 223.
Dolomieu Bay, 226.
Dombey, Cape, 80.
Douington, Cape, 51, 55.
Dorothee Island, 43.
Double Peak, 200.
Double Sandy Point, 175.
Doubtful Isles, 17.
Doubtful Island Bay, 18, 92,
Douglas's Isle, 27.
Dover, Point, 30.
Draper's Island, 21, 22,
INDEX.
Dromedary, Mount, 234, 236.
Dromedary, Cape, 236.
Drummond, Point, 43.
Eastern Channel, ( Port Jackson),
241.
Eastern Group, (Reck. Arch.,) 28.
Eclipse Islands, 10.
Eddystone Islet, 207.
Eddystone Point, 231.
Elbow Hill, 57.
Elie, Cape, 122.
Eliza Point, 212, 218.
Elliot Mount Isle, 243.
Encounter Bay, 76.
Endeavour Rock, 162.
Entrance Island, 191.
Esperance Bay, (South Coast Aus-
tralia,) 22, 23.
Esperance Bay, (Van Diemen's
Land,) 212.
Evans' Isle, 38.
Flat topped Point, 92.
Flat Hill, 238.
Flinders' Island, 41.
Fleurieu Bay, 230.
Fluted Cape, 215, 219, 220.
Fowler's Bay, 33, 34, 92.
Fowler, Point, 33, 34,
Franklin, Cape, 164 to 171.
Franklin's Isles, 36.
Frederick Henry, Cape, 219,1222,223
Frederik Hendrik, Cape, 227.
Frederik Hendrik, Port, 227.
Freycinet Peninsula, 230.
Friar's Isles, 219.
Furneaux's Islands, 151, 234.
Galets, Point, 229.
^Gambiers Isles, 63, 64.
Gambier, Mount, 85.
Gantheaume, Cape, 72.
Gardner, Mount, 14.
Geography's Reef/ SowfA Coa$t,)32.
Geographe Strait, ( Van Diemen't
LandJ 230.
George, Cape, 237.
George's Head, 241.
Glennie's Isles, 148.
Goose Island Bay, 26, 92.
Gordon's River, 199.
Grantham, Island, 53.
Great Cove, 215.
Great Eastern Shoal, fSpencer't
Gulf,) 60.
Great Island, 159.
Green, Cape, 234.
Green Head, 223.
Green (Verte) Island, 217.
Green Point, 241 .
Greenly's Isles, 46.
Greenly, Mount, 44.
Grequel, Point, 204.
Grim, Cape, 124.
Grindal's Island, 51 .
Guioken Bay, 79, 80.
Hacking or Deeban, Port, 239.
Hamilton's Road, 98.
Hammant'a, or Hammet's Island, 82.
Harbinger's Reefs, 95, 100 to 103.
Hardwicke Bay, 61, 64.
Haul-off Rock, 16.
Haiiy, Cape, 226.
Hawkesbury River, 243, 244.
Haycock Point, 234.
Hebe's Reef, 177.
Heemskerk, Mount, 189.
Helen's, St., Point, 231.
Hibbs, Point, 202.
Hillier, Point, 8.
Hobart Town. 219 to 221.
Hogan's Group, 155.
Hood, Point, 17.
Hopkins' Isle, 50.
INDEX.
Howe, Cape, 232 to "234.
Howe, West Cape, 8.
Hummock's Island, 160.
Hummock Hill, 58, 60.
Hunter's Isles, 96, 98, 113 to 124.
Hunter Port, or Coal River, 245.
Huon Island, 214.
Indented Head, 130.
Iniad Point, 199.
Investigator's Strait, 74.
Iron Pot Islet, 220, 222.
Isthmus Bay, 215.
^*
Jackson, Port, 238, 240*
- Directions for, 240.
Jaffa, Cape, 80.
Jervis Bay, 234, 237.
Jervis, Cape, 66,
Judgment Rock, 158.
Kangaroo Head, 68, 70, 71.
Kangaroo Island, 68 to 75.
Kelly's Channel, 197.
Kelly's Farm, 224^
Kent's Bay, 170.
Kent's Groups, 96, 97, 98, 156.
Keraudren, Cape, 117.
King George's Sound, 8 to 14, 92.
King's Island, 96, 100 to 110.
King's Town, or Newcastle, 245.
Kirkby Island, 56.
Knob, Cape, 17.
Lacepede Bay, 77.
Lacy'* Isles, 38.
Lady Julia Percy's Isle,
Lagoon Point, 217.
Lahaye Island, 212.
Lannes, Cape, 81.
Lawrence's Isle, 87.
Leeuwin, Cape, 2j 6, 7.
Le GrandJ Cape, (Soutk Coast
Australia,) 23.
Le Grand, Cape, ( Van Diemen't
Land,) 214.,,
Lesueur, Point, 228.
Lewis Isle, 50.
Liberty Point, 198.
Lighthouse, Port Hunter, 245.
Lighthouse, Port Jackson,240.
Liguanea Island, 47.
Lincoln, Port, 52 to 55, 64.
Liptrap, Cape, 146.
Little Cove, 215.
Little Isle, 50.
Lodi, Cape, 231.
Lofty, Mount, 67.
Long Beach, 98.
Long Island, 116.
Lound's Isle, 36.
Louth Bay, 55.
Louth Islands, 55.
Low Head, 176.
Lowly Point, 58, 59.
Lucky Bay, 24.
Maatsuyker's Islands, 205.
Macquarie Harbour, ( Van Diemen's
Land,) 189 to 201.
Directions for, 191.
Malcolm, Point, 29, 92.
Manypeak, Mount, 15.
Maria Island, 222, 228.
Marion Bay, 227, 228.
Marsden, Point, 68.
Martin's Isles, 239.
Maug6, Point, 228.
Maurouard, Cape, 228.
Maurouard Island, 231 .
M'Carty, Point, 200.
Memory Cove, 48.
Mewstone, 204, 207.
Michaelmas Island, 14.
Middle Back, Mount, 57.
INDEX.
MiddieGroutid, or Sowand Pig3,241 .
Middle Island, (Reck. Arck.J 26.
Middle Islet, ( Van Diemen's L&nd,)
229.
Middle Island, (Port Dalrymple,)
180.
Middle, Mount, 57.
Middle Shoal, (Spencer's Gulf,) 60.
Mistaken, Cape, 228.
Moncur's Isles, 163.
Monge Bay, 227.
Montague Island, 236.
' Montbazin, Port, 229, 230.
Montenote Isles, 32.
Morard-de-Galles, Cape, 77.
Mulgrave, Fort, 220.
Muscle Bay, 212.
Musquito Cove, 196.
Naturaliste, Cape, 231.
Nelson, Cape, 86, 87.
Nelson's Head and Bay, 247.
Nepean Bay, 68 to 70, 74.
Nepean, Point, 125.
Neptune's Isles, 50, 64.
Newcastle or King's Town, 245.
New year's Isles, 96, 100, 101.
Ninth Island, 175.
Nobby, or Coal Island, 245.
Norfolk Bay, 219, 224, 227.
Norfolk, Mount, 188.
North Port, 209.
North Bay, 223, 224
North-side Hill, 54.
Northumberland, Cape, 84.
North-west high bluff, (Cape Jer-
vis,) 66.
North-west Port, 214.
Nuyts' Archipelago, 34 to 43.
Nuyts', Cape, 31,33.
Nnyts', Point, 8.
Nnyta' Reefs, 31.
Observatory Island, 22, 23, 92.
Olive'fl Isle, 39.
Opossom Bay, 225.
Otway, Cape, 89, 125.
Oyster Bay, 228.
Oyster Harbour, 10 to 13.
Pages, Islets, 75.
Partridge Island, 214, 217.
Pasley, Cape, 28.
Passage Isles and Point, 169.
Paterson, Cape, 145.
Paterson's Bay, 146.
Patriarchs, 160.
Patrick's, St. Head, 231.
Patton, Cape, 91.
Paul St., Island, (Indian Ocean,}
1.
Peak Head, 9.
Pearce, Point, 61,64.
Pearl Rock, 210.
Pearson's Isles, 42.
Pedra Blanca Rock, 207.
Pelican Lagoon, 70, 71.
Perforated Isle, 45.
Peron's Channel, 1 19.
Perpendicular, Point, 237, 238.
Peter St., Isles of, 36.
Peter, Point, 36.
Petrel Bay, 35, 37, 92.
Phillip, Port, 96, 99, 125 to 132.
Directions for, 126.
Phillip Island, 132.
Phoques Island, 230.
Pierson, Point, 214, 224.
Pigeon House Hill, 237.
Pillar, Cape, 219, 222 to 22G.
Pinchgut Island, 241.
Pine Cove, 200.
Pinguin Island, 219
Pitt Water, (Van Diemen's Land,)
219.
Pitt Water, (Australia,) 243.
Porpoise Rock, 180.
Portland Bay, 87.
INDEX.
Portland, Cape, 173, 231 .
Princess- Royal Harbour, 10 to 13.
Preservation Island, 97.
Prospect Hill, 70, 71.
Prosser Bay, 229.
Pruen Cove, 224.
Purdie's Isles, 35, 36.
Pyramid Rock, 158.
Quoin Bay and Island, 225.
Radstock, Cape, 40.
Ragged Mount, 29.
Ram Head, 150. "
Raoul, Cape, 222 to 226.
Reevesby Island, 56.
Recherche Archipelago, 20 to 28.
Recherche Bay, 208.
Red Point, (Twofold Bay,} 234.
Red Point, 239.
Refuge Island, 231.
Reid's Rocks, 97, 107 to 112.
Remark Island, 22.
Renard, Point, 223.
Ressac, Point, 227.
Riche, Cape, 16.
Riche, Point, 214.
Riedle Bay, 228.
Riley Point, 60, 65.
Risdon Cove, 221.
Rivoli Bay, 80.
Robbins' Passage, 122.
Rocky Cape, 183.
Rocky Point,f Van Diemen'sLand,}
202.
Rocky Point, (Australia,} 237.
Rocks, White, 8.
Rocks off Recherche Bay, 210.
Rodondo Isle, 147.
Rollin, Cape, 58.
Round-hill Point, 182.
Round Head, 196.
Round Island, 28.
Route, southern, from PortJackson,4
Rurick Rock, 208.
Safety Cove, 225.
Salamander Bay, 247.
Sandspit River, 229.
Sandy Cape, 232.
Sandy Point, 194.
Satellite Island, 214.
Schanck, Cape, 144.
Schanck, Mount, 85.
Schouten Island, 230.
Sea-elephant Bay, 98, 103 to 105.
Sealer's Cove, 148.
Seals, Bay of, 107.
Seal Isles, 149.
Seal Point, 108.
Seal Rocks, 169.
Sesostris' Reef, 79.
Shag Cove, 48.
Shag Rock, 180.
Shark's Island, 242.
Shoal Cape, 19.
Shoal Haven and River, 238.
Sidmouth Rock, 207.
Sinclair's Rocks, 34.
Sir Isaac, Point, 44.
Sir Joseph Banks' Group, 55.
Sir Roger Curtis' Isles, 95, 96, 152,
Sir William Grant, Cape, 87.
Sisters, 161.
Sleaford Bay, 47, 54.
Sleaford Mere, 54.
Sloping Island, 223, 224.
Sloping Point, 169.
Smith's Island, 50.
Smoky Bay, 35, 36.
Smooth Island, 223, 224.
Snug Cove, 234, 235.
Solander, Cape, 239.
Soldier's Point, 246.
Sorell, Cape, 188.
Sorell, Port, 98, 182,
INDEX,
Sorrell, Port, Directions for, 182.
Sortie, Cape, 214, 220.
South-east Isles, 27.
South Cape, 205, 207, 208.
South-west Cape, 205, 207.
South Port, 209.
Sow and Pigs,or MiddleGround,241
Spalding Cove, 53.
Spencer, Cape, 62.
Spencer's Gulf, 47 to 65, 92.
Spilsby Islands, 56.
Stamford Hill, 54.
Station Peak, 129.
Steep Head Island, 116.
Stephen's, Cape and Port, 246.
Sterile, or Actaeon Isles, 211.
Stewart's Harbour, 225.
Stony Head, 176.
Store Island, 200.
Storm Bay, 219, 222, 224, 225.
Directions for, 220, 223,
224.
Streaky Bay, 38.
St. Alouarn Isles, 6, 7.
St. Francis, Isles of, 37.
St. Helen's Point, 231.
St. Patrick's Head, 231.
St. Paul, Island (Indian Ocean ), 1.
St. Peter, Isles of, 36.
St. Vincent, Gulf of, 66 to 68.
Sullivan Cove, 220.
Surfleet Point, 52.
Surville, Cape, 227.
Swan Isles, 98, 171.
Swan Port, (Macquarie Harbour,
Van Diemen's Land,} 201.
Swan Port, 213.
Sydney Cove, 242.
Table Cape, 183.
Table Head, 198.
Table, Mount, 214, 220.
Tamar River, 180.
Tasraan's Head, 219, 220.
Tasman's Island, 226.
Taylor's Isles, 51.
Tenth Island, 176.
Termination Island and Reefs, 20,
Thistle's Cove, 24, 92.
Thistle's Island, 49, 63.
Thorny Passage, 50, 63.
Three-hummock Island, 119.
Tomaree Head, 246.
Tombeaux Point, 228.
Top-gallant Isles, 42.
Tortoise Head, 140.
Tourville, Cape, 230, 231.
Trefoil Island, 115, 117.
Troubridge Hill, 65, 74.
Troubridge Shoal, 65.
Tumby Island, 55.
Twain Cove, 198.
Twia Peaks, 25.
Twin Rocks, 21.
Twofold Bay, 234.
Two People, Port of, 15, 93.
Ultimo River, 201.
Upright, Point, 236.
Vancouver's Breakers, 9.
Variation of the Compass, 2, 13, 17,
20, 25, 27, 30, 32, 34, 35, 39, 42,
43, 46, 48, 55, 56, 58, 61 , 62, 68,
69, 74, 76, 78, 81, 86, 101, 125,
131,144,148,164,167,171,174,
181, 187, 210, 220, 235,243.
Venus' Bay, 145.
Verte, or Green, Island, 214, 217.
Vincent St., Gulf of, 66 to 68.
Volney, Cape, 87, 91.
Volney Isle, 57.
Waldegrave's Isles, 141.
Ward's Isles, 42.
Waterhouse, Isle, 98, 174.
INDEX.
Waterhouse, Point, 174.
Watson's Bay, 242.
Wattamoulee Cove, 239.
Watts' Hill, 194.
Wedge Island, 63.
Wellington, Mount, 195.
Westell, Point, 39, 40.
Western Chanuel, (Port Jackson,)
241. :
Western Port, 99, 132 to 144.
: Directions for, 142.
West Cape Banks, 83.
West Group, 21.
West Cape Howe, 8,
Weyland, Point, 40,
Whidbey, Point, 45.
Whidbey's Isles, 45.
White Rocks, 8.
Wiles, Cape, 46.
Williams, Isle, 48.
Willoughby, Cape, 73.
Wilson's Promontory, 125, 146.
Winds, near Cape Leeuwin, and to
Bass' Strait, 2.
on the South Coast of Aus-'
tralia, 3.
in Bass' Strait, 94.
on the West Coast of Van
Diemeu's Land, 185.
on the East Coast of Austra-
lia, 232.
Womat, Point, 168.
Wright's Rock, 162.
Yacabah Head, 246.
Yorke's Peninsula, 60 to 68.
Young, Mount, 58.
Zeehaan, Mount, 189.
ERRATA.
Page 9, margin, for " Eastwar" read " Eastward.'
40, liue 6, for 32 12', read 33 12'.
100, Note, line 2, for 141 42' read 1442:}'.
000074809 I