fop1^EESE LIBRARY 
 OF THK 
 
 UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA. 
 
 Received. (-^^^ iSS.f^ 
 
 Accessions No..^-^S^O. Shelf No -. 
 
 Zv- 
 
■.^^ \»*iW ' 
 
Digitized by the Internet Archive 
 
 in 2006 with funding from 
 
 IVIicrosoft Corporation 
 
 http://www.archive.org/details/cooksownbookhousOOIeenrich 
 
COOK'S OWN BOOK, 
 
 AND 
 
 HOUSEKEEPER'S REGISTER: 
 
 COMPREHENDirrO ALL VALUABLE RECEIPTS 
 
 FOR COOKING MEAT, FISH, AJVD FOWL; 
 
 AND COMPOSING EVERY KIND OF 
 
 SOUP, GRAVY, PASTRY, PRESERVES, ESSENCES, &c. 
 
 THAT HAVE BEEN PUBLISHED OR INVENTED 
 
 DURING THE LAST TWENTY YEARS. 
 
 WITH 
 
 NUMEROUS ORIGINAL RECEIPTS, 
 
 AND A COMPLETE SYSTEM OF 
 
 COJVFECTIOJVERY. 
 
 BY A BOSTON HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 TO WHICH IS ADDED, 
 
 MISS LESLIE'S SEVENTY-FIVE RECEIPTS 
 
 FOR PASTRY, GA^BSs^A-m^SWEETMEATS. 
 
 ALPHABETICALLY ARRANGED, 
 AKD BLANlHpT|EMN^E|rE]i>, F,OH RAMiL?? V^if ORANDUMS. 
 
 PUBLISHED, 
 IN BOSTON, BY MUNROE & FRANCIS ; 
 
 NEW- YORK, BY CHARLES S. FRANCIS ; PHILADELPHIA, BY CAREY, LEA, 
 AND BLANCHARD, AND GRIGG AND ELLIOT. 
 
 1833. 
 
Entered, according to act of Congress, in the year 1833, by 
 
 MuNROE & Francis, 
 In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of Massachusetts. 
 
^<*2' 
 
 PREFACE. 
 
 LIBa&KY 
 
 The cook exercises a greater power over the public health and 
 welfare than the physician, and if he should be a charlatan in his art, 
 alas ! for his employers. Hitherto, or until of late years, the cook 
 has had to educate himself, while the physician appropriates all the 
 knowledge of antiquity, and of every succeeding age ; his individual 
 cases are all classed according to general principles, while the rules 
 that have regulated the preparation of our food, have been discordant 
 and unnatural. In the present age, indeed, cookery has been raised 
 to the dignity of an art, and sa^es have given their treatises to the 
 world. Very has a monument in the cemetery of P^re La Chaise, 
 among the tombs of warriors, poets, and philosophers, recording of 
 his life that 'it was consecrated to the useful arts.' Virgil however, 
 writes that the best delights of Elysium were showered upon those 
 who received wounds for their country, who lived unspotted priests, 
 who uttered verses worthy of Apollo, or who, like V^ry, consecrated 
 their lives to the useful arts. On the utilitarian principle the cook 
 should be much elevated in public estimation, and were he to form a 
 strict alliance with the physician, the patriarchal ages would return, 
 and men would die of nothing but sheer old age. 
 
 After insanity, the most grievous affliction of Providence, or rather 
 of improvidence and imprudence, is Dyspepsy : a malady that under 
 different names has decimated the inhabitants of civilized countries, 
 and of almost all countries, in which man is a * cooking animal.' To 
 the dyspeptic, the sun has no cheering ray, the air no elasticity or 
 balm ; the flowers are without fragrance, music is without melody, 
 and beauty without charms. Life is a blank ; affection has lost its 
 power to soothe, and the blessings scattered by Providence, are con- 
 verted into ministers of torment. Food becomes a bane ; the very 
 staff that supports life, gives the flagellation that renders life a curse. 
 All that can delight is lost, — but all that can depress and sting, has a 
 tenfold activity and power. 
 
IV PREFACE. 
 
 The dyspeptic's < May of life, has fallen into the sear, the yellow 
 leaf.* Sleep that should visit every pillow but that of guilt, is to him 
 no friend ; if he slumbers, it is to dream, like Clarence, of hideous 
 forms of suffering, and to wake to their reahty. This is but a faint 
 picture of Dyspepsy. 
 
 * Her gloomy presence saddens all the scene. 
 Shades every flower and daikens eveiy green. 
 Deepens the murmur of the falling floods, 
 And breathes a browner horror ^ tlie woods.* 
 
 This malady is beyond the science of the physician, but within the 
 art of the cook ; in the proverb. Doctor Diet is ranked above Dpctor 
 Quiet and Doctor Merryman ; though all are good. 
 
 The late Mr. Abernethy referred almost all maladies to the stom- 
 ach, and seldom prescribed any remedy but a proper diet. This it is 
 the province of the cook to provide ; and the design of this book to 
 indicate. The work is not designed to spread a taste for pernicious 
 luxuries: and every recipe has been sanctioned by custom. The 
 responsibility of the cook is lightened, and his duty facilitated. He 
 has here a dictionary of reference, an encyclopedia of his art. The 
 details are full, and the authority is perfect. There were various 
 works of merit that it was useful for the cook to study, but here are 
 collected Jdie beet parts of all, with the convenience of alphabetical 
 arrangement, and in the compass of a moderate volume. If it is a 
 sin to waste the best gifts of Providence, it should be little less than 
 a felony to spoil them. When we have collected the materials for a 
 house, we never trust the building to an unskilful architect: yet we 
 are often obliged to commit the preparation of our feasts as well as 
 of our common food, to agents without knowledge. This knowledge 
 is now supplied. 
 
 More than health depends on the proper preparation of food : our 
 very virtues are the creatures of circumstances, and many a man has 
 hardened his heart, or given up a good resolution, under the operation 
 of indigestion. Who that knows the world, ever solicits with confi- 
 dence a friendly or charitable act of another before dinner. 
 
 The natural and moral world are reciprocally dependent ; soul and 
 body are so linked, that when one loses its tone the other is deprived 
 of its equanimity. The system of morals therefore becomes identi- 
 fied with that of cookery, and the great English moralist, who was 
 learned in both systems, thus spoke of the connexion ; < Some peo- 
 ple ' said Doctor Johnson, ' have a foolish way of not minding, or of 
 pretending not to mind, what they eat. I for my part mind my belly 
 very studiously, and very carefully, and I look upon it that he who 
 does not mind his belly will hardly mind any thing else.' 
 
PREFACE. V 
 
 It has been the study of the author, to make every recipe plain, 
 and the proportions certain ; little is left to discretion, that could be 
 reduced to measure. The system of confectionery is perfect ; and if 
 strictly followed every cook may become a first rate confectioner. 
 Labor, care, and expense have been bestowed upon the work, and the 
 publishers feel so secure of its merit, and of the public want of such a 
 book, that they have caused it to be stereotyped. This would have 
 been hazardous with a novel or almost any literary work ; but the 
 number of those who eat is far greater than of those who read. A 
 good book few can estimate ; all can enjoy a good dinner, and the 
 publishers anticipate a proportionate encouragement. 
 
 Having devised this work for families, we hope that it may offend 
 no one, that we give a word of counsel to domestics: our book may 
 be every way good, yet will its usefulness be much impaired if do- 
 mestics are not docile and faithful. 
 
 We have fortunately, in this country, but one class of people : all 
 are free, and all are politically equal. Our domestics are in New 
 England designated as help^ to indicate that they are the equals, and 
 assistants, rather than the inferiors of their employers. Yet the 
 feeling of independence may be carried too far, and it may be ungra- 
 ciously expressed. There is no disgrace, and there should be no 
 shame in filling well a subordinate station; the hired ploughman, 
 maid, or cook are not, in an offensive sense, any more the servants of 
 their employers, than the merchant and the lawyer. All these engage 
 to perform certain services for an equivalent, and it is the duty of all 
 to do them faithfully. 
 
 The number of domestics is very large — perhaps the average is 
 five to four families — and it may be even greater. Yet, unfortunate- 
 ly for their welfare, interest, or character, they are almost constantly 
 shifting, and in few families do they remain long. In England, a 
 good domestic is often provided for during life, and it is a desirable 
 situation. It might be so here, if our domestics would strive to ac- 
 commodate themselves to their situation. There is hardly a family, 
 in which a kind, respectful, and faithful domestic might not be regained 
 for yeais, and at the best wages. Here then is a home, comfort, and 
 friends. Yet the greater number are contented to live a few months 
 in a place, till the best years of life have slipped away, without pro- 
 vision for age, and without friends, or home. The proverb of the 
 rolling stone contains the best lesson for domestics. 
 
 Service in any department is no sacrifice of independence. A 
 domestic is in all things as free as any other class, but it is a 
 bad kind of independence that would lead one, when desired to do a 
 
TI PREFACE. 
 
 thing in the line of a common employment, to do it ungraciously, 
 and rather as an irksome or unjust task, than as a duty. 
 
 Minor vexations, frequently repeated, are equal to greater individ- 
 ual calamities; as many small enjoyments constitute much of the 
 pleasures of life. Around the social board every member of the fam- 
 ily is collected thrice at least in twenty-four hours. Thither the 
 head of the family returns from the labors or cares of his business to 
 recruit his strength and to relax his mind. If he return to a table 
 constantly and invariably ill spread ; to a dinner to which he could 
 invite no friend, and in which he can have no enjoyment; a cloud 
 will gather on the calmest brow, and a feeling of dissatisfaction may 
 be extended to other things. It is not beneath the solicitude of a 
 good wife, who would not suffer any abatement in the affection of 
 which she is the object, dihgently to study this book, and constantly 
 to provide a neat and well dressed repast. 
 
 Boston, Mai-ch, 1832. 
 
 %* The articles which follow j on Roasting ^ Boilings S^c. are 
 selected from the Cook's Oracle. 
 
V^ or THK ' f^ 
 
 'UFI7SESITT,; 
 
 MANAGmETtr-TTf^ 
 
 In domestic arrangement the table is entitled to no small share 
 of attention, as a well conducted system of domestic management 
 is the foundation of every comfort; and the respectability and 
 welfare of families depend in a great measure on the prudent 
 conduct of the female, whose province it is to manage the domes- 
 tic concerns. 
 
 However the fortunes of individuals may support a large expen- 
 diture, it will be deficient in all that can benefit or grace society, 
 and in every thing essential to moral order and rational happiness, 
 if not conducted on a regular system, embracing all the objects 
 of such a situation. 
 
 In domestic management, as in education, so much must depend 
 on the particular circumstances of every case, that it is impossible 
 to lay down a system which can be generally applicable. 
 
 The immediate plan of every family must be adapted to its own 
 peculiar situation, and can only result from the good sense and 
 early good habits of the parties, acting upon general rational 
 principles. 
 
 What one family is to do, must never be measured by what 
 another family does. Each one knows its own resources, and 
 should consult them alone. What might be meanness in one, 
 might be extravagance in another, and therefore there can be no 
 standard of reference but that of individual prudence. The most 
 fatal of all things to private families, is to indulge an ambition to 
 make an appearance above their fortunes, professions, or business, 
 whatever these may be. 
 
 The next point, both for comfort and respectability, is, that all 
 the household economy should be uniform, not displaying a parade 
 of show in one thing, and a total want of comfort in another. Be- 
 sides the contemptible appearance that this must have to every 
 person of good sense, it is productive of consequences, not only of 
 present, but future injury to a family, that are too often irreparable. 
 
 In great cities in particular, how common is it that for the vani- 
 ty of having a showy drawing-room to receive company, the family 
 are confined to a close back room, where they have scarcely either 
 air or light, the want of which must materially prejudice their 
 health. 
 
 To keep rooms for show, where the fortune is equal to having 
 a house that will accommodate the family properly, and admit of 
 this also, belongs to the highest sphere of life ; but in private fam- 
 ilies, to shut up the only room perhaps in the house which is really 
 wholesome for the family to live in, is inflicting a kind of lingering 
 
VIU FAMILY MANAGEMENT. 
 
 murder upon the inmates; and yet how frequently this considera- 
 tion escapes persons who mean well by their family, but who still 
 have a grate, a carpet, and chairs, too fine for every day's use. 
 
 Another fruit of this evil is, seeing more company, and in a 
 more expensive manner than is compatible with the general con- 
 venience of the family, introducing with it an expense in dress, 
 and a dissijmtion of time, from which it suffers in various ways. 
 
 Social intercourse is not improved by parade, but quite the 
 contrary; real friends, and the pleasantest kind of acquaintance, 
 those who like to be sociable, are repulsed by it. It is a failure 
 therefore every way — the loss of what is really valuable, and an 
 abortive attempt to be fashionable. 
 
 A fundamental error in domestic life of very serious extent, 
 involving no less the comfort than the health of the family, arises 
 from the ignorance or mistaken notions of the mistress of the house 
 upon the subjects of diet and cookery. 
 
 The subject of cookery is thought by too many women to be 
 below their attention, or, when practically engaged in, it is with 
 no other consideration about it than, in the good housewife's 
 phrase, to make the most of every thing, whether good, bad, or 
 indifferent; or to contrive a thousand mischievous compositions, 
 both savory and sweet, to recommend their own ingenuity. 
 
 If cookery is worth studying, as a sensual gratification, it is 
 surely much more so as a means of securing one of the greatest of 
 human blessings — good health; and we cannot quit this part of the 
 subject of domestic management without observing, that one cause 
 of a great deal of injurious cookery originates in the same vanity 
 of show that is productive of so many other evils. In order to 
 set out a table with a greater number of dishes than the situation 
 of the family requires, more cookery is often undertaken than 
 there are servants to do it well, or conveniences in the kitchen for 
 the purpose. Thus some viands are done before they are wanted 
 for serving up, and stand by spoiling, to make room for others; 
 these are again perhaps to be succeeded by something else; and 
 too often are things served up that had better be thrown away, 
 than to be used for food. 
 
 The leading consideration about food ought always to be its 
 wholesomeness. Cookery may produce savory and pretty looking 
 dishes without their possessing any of the qualities of food. It is 
 at the same time both a serious and ludicrous reflection that it 
 should be thought to do honor to our friends and ourselves to set 
 out a table where indigestion and all its train of evils, such as 
 fever, rheumatism, gout, and the whole catalogue of human dis- 
 eases lie lurking in almost every dish. Yet this is both done, and 
 taken as a compliment. We have indeed the " unbought grace 
 of polished society, where gluttony loses half its vice by being 
 stripped of its grossness." When a man at a public house dies of 
 a surfeit of beef steak and porter, who does not exclaim, what a 
 beast f 
 
COOKING UTENSILS. IX 
 
 How infinitely preferable is a dinner of far less show where 
 nobody need be afraid of what they are eating! and such a one 
 will be genteel and respectable. If a person can give his friend 
 only a leg of mutton, there is nothing to be ashamed of in it, pro- 
 vided it is a good one, and well dressed. 
 
 A house fitted up with plain good furniture, the kitchen fur- 
 nished with clean wholesome-looking cooking utensils, good fires, 
 in grates that give no anxiety lest a good fire should spoil them, 
 clean good table linen, the furniture of the table and sideboard 
 good of the kind, without ostentation, and a well-dressed plain 
 dinner, bespeak a sound judgment and correct taste in a private 
 family, that place it on a footing of respectability with the first 
 characters in the country. It is only the conforming to our sphere, 
 not the vainly attempting to be above it, that can command true 
 respect. 
 
 COOKING UTENSILS. 
 
 The various utensils uspd for the preparation and keeping of 
 food are made either of metal, glass, pottery ware, or wood; each 
 of which is better suited to some particular purposes than the 
 others. Metallic utensils are quite unfit for many uses, and the 
 knowledge of this is necessary to the preservation of health in 
 general, and sometimes to the prevention of immediate dangerous 
 consequences. 
 
 The metals commonly used in the construction of these vessels 
 are silver, copper, brass, tin, iron, and lead. Silver is prefera- 
 ble to all the others, because it cannot be dissolved by any of the 
 substances used as food. Brimstone unites with silver, and forms 
 a thin brittle crust over it, that gives it the appearance of being 
 tarnished, which may be accidentally taken with food; but this 
 is not particularly unwholesome, nor is it liable to be taken often, 
 nor in large quantities. The discoloring of silver spoons used 
 with eggs arises from the brimstone contained in eggs. — Nitre or 
 saltpetre has also a slight eflTect upon silver, but nitre and silver 
 seldom remain long enough together in domestic uses to require 
 any particular caution. 
 
 Copper and brass are both liable to be dissolved by vinegar, 
 acid fruits, and pearl-ash. Such solutions are highly poisonous, 
 and great caution should be used to prevent accidents of the kind. 
 Vessels made of these metals are generally tinned, that is, lined 
 with a thin coating of a mixed metal, containing both tin and lead. 
 Neither acids, nor any thing containing pearl-ash, should ever be 
 suff*ered to remain above an hour in vessels of this kind, as the 
 tinning is dissolvable by acids, and the coating is seldom perfect 
 over the surface of the copper or brass. 
 
 The utensils made of what is called block tin are constructed 
 of iron plates coated with tin. This is equally to be dissolved as 
 the tinning of copper or brass vessels, but iron is not an unwhole- 
 
X DIET. 
 
 some substance, if even a portion of it should be dissolved and 
 mixed in the food. Iron is therefore one of the safest metals for 
 the construction of culinary utensils; and the objection to its more 
 extensive use only rests upon its liability to rust, so that it requires 
 more cleaning and soon decays. Some articles of food, such as 
 quinces, orange peel, artichokes, &.c. are blackened by remaining 
 in iron vessels, which therefore must not be used for them. 
 
 Leaden vessels are very unwholesome, and should never be 
 used for milk and cream, if it be ever likely to stand till it become 
 sour. They are unsafe also for the purpose of keeping salted 
 meats. 
 
 The best kind of pottery ware is oriental china, because the 
 glazing is a perfect glass, which cannot be dissolved, and the 
 whole substance is so compact that liquid cannot penetrate it. 
 Many of the English pottery wares are badly glazed, and as the 
 glazing is made principally of lead, it is necessary to avoid put- 
 ting vinegar, and other acids into them. Acids and greasy sub- 
 stances penetrate into unglazed wares, excepting the strong stone 
 ware; or into those of which the glazing is cracked, and hence 
 give a bad flavor to any thing they are used for afterwards. They 
 are quite unfit therefore for keeping pickles or salted meats. 
 Glass vessels are infinitely preferable to any pottery ware but 
 oriental china, and should be used whenever the occasion admits 
 of it. 
 
 Wooden vessels are very proper for the keeping many articles 
 of food, and should always be preferred to those lined with lead. 
 If any substance has fermented or become putrid in a wooden 
 cask or tub, it is sure to taint the vessel so as to make it liable to 
 produce a similar eflfect upon any thing that may be put into it in 
 future. It is useful to char the insides of these wooden vessels 
 before they are used, by burning wood shavings in them, so as to 
 coat the insides with a crust of charcoal. 
 
 As whatever contaminates food in any way must be sure, from 
 the repetition of its baneful effects, to injure the health, a due 
 precaution with respect to all culinary vessels is necessary for its 
 more certain preservation. There is a kind of hollow iron ware 
 lined with enamel, which is superior to every other utensil for 
 sauces or preserves: indeed it is preferable for every purpose. 
 
 DIET. 
 
 That we require food, as vegetables require water, to support 
 our existence, is the primary consideration upon which we should 
 take it. But in our general practice of eating, it cannot be said, 
 **we eat to live," but are living passages or channels, through 
 which we are constantly propelling both solids and fluids, for the 
 sal^ of pleading our palates, at the severe cost often of our whole 
 eysfem. 
 
DIET. XI 
 
 A reasonable indulgence in the abundant supplies of nature, 
 converted by art to the purposes of wholesome food, is one of the 
 comforts added to the maintenance of life. It is an indiscriminate 
 gratification of our tastes, regardless of the consequences that 
 may ensue from it, that is alone blamable. But so great is our 
 general apathy in these respects, that even on the occurrence of 
 diseases, from which we are all more or less sufferers, we scarce- 
 ly ever reflect on our diet, as the principal, if not the sole cause 
 of them. We assign them to weather, to infection, to hereditary 
 descent, to spontaneous breeding, as if a disease could originate 
 without a cause; or to any frivolous imaginary source, without 
 suspecting, or being willing to own, mismanagement of ourselves. 
 
 We derive the renewal of our blood and juices, which are con- 
 stantly exhausting, from the substances we take as food. As our 
 food, therefore, is proper or improper, too much or too little, so 
 will our blood and juices be good or bad, overcharged or deficient, 
 and our state of health accordingly good or diseased. 
 
 By aliment, or food, is to be understood whatever we eat or 
 drink, including seasonings; such as salt, sugar, spices, vinegar, 
 &c. &c. Every thing, in short, which we receive into our sto- 
 machs. Our food, therefore, consists not only of such particles 
 as are proper for the nourishment and support of the human body, 
 but likewise contains certain active principles, viz. salts, oils, and 
 spirits, which have the properties of stimulating the solids, quick- 
 ening the circulation, and making the fluids thinner; thus render- 
 ing them more suited to undergo the necessary secretions of the 
 body. 
 
 The art of preserving health, and obtaining long life, therefore 
 consists in the use of a moderate quantity of such diet as shall 
 neither increase the salts and oils, so as to produce disease, nor 
 diminish them, so as to suffer the solids to become relaxed. 
 
 It is very difficult, almost impossible, to ascertain exactly what 
 are the predominant qualities either in our bodies or in the food 
 we eat. In practice, therefore, we can have no other rule but 
 observing by experience what it is that hurts or does us good; 
 and what it is our stomach can digest with facility, or the contrary. 
 But then we must keep our judgment unbiassed, and not suffer it 
 to become a pander to the appetite, and thus betray the stomach 
 and health, to indulge our sensuality. 
 
 The eating too little is hurtful, as well as eating too much. 
 Neither excess, nor hunger, nor any thing else that passes the 
 bounds of nature, can be good to man. 
 
 By loading the stomach, fermentation is checked, and of course 
 digestion impeded; for the natural juice of the stomach has not 
 room to exert itself, and it therefore nauseates its contents, is 
 troubled with eructations, the spirits are oppressed, obstructions 
 ensue, and fever is the consequence. Besides, that when thus 
 overfilled, the stomach presses on the diaphragm, prevents the 
 proper play of the lungs, and occasions uneasiness in our breath- 
 
•Xn DIET. 
 
 ing. Hence arise various ill symptoms and depraved effects 
 throughout the body, enervating the strength, decaying the senses, 
 hastening old age, and shortening life. Though these effects are 
 not immediately perceived, yet they are certain attendants of 
 intemperance; for it has been generally observed in great eaters, 
 that, though from custom, a state of youth, and a strong constitu- 
 tion, they have no present inconvenience, but have digested their 
 food, suffered surfeit, and borne their immoderate diet well ; if they 
 have not been unexpectedly cut off, they have found the symptoms 
 of old age come on early in life, attended with pains and innume- 
 rable disorders. 
 
 If we value our health, we must ever make it a rule not to eat 
 to satiety or fulness, but desist while the stomach feels quite easy. 
 Thus we shall be refreshed, light, and cheerful; not dull, heavy, 
 or indisposed. Should we ever be tempted to eat too much at one 
 time, we should eat the less at another. Thus, if our dinner has 
 been larger than usual, let our supper be less, or rather quite 
 omitted; for there is no man, however careful of his health, who 
 does not occasionally transgress in this way. 
 
 With regard to the times of eating, they must to a certain degree 
 be conformed to family convenience, but ought to be quite inde- 
 pendent of the caprices of fashion. The great things to be guard- 
 ed against are, either eating too soon after a former meal, or 
 fasting too long. — The stomach should always have time to empty 
 itself before it is filled again. 
 
 Some stomachs digest their contents sooner than others, and if 
 long empty it may destroy the appetite, and greatly disturb both 
 the head and animal spirits; for, from the great profusion of nerves 
 spread upon the stomach, there is an immediate sympathy between 
 that and the head. Hence the head is sure to be affected by 
 whatever disorders the stomach, whether from any particular ali- 
 ment that disagrees with it, or being overfilled, or too long empty. 
 Such as feel a gnawing in the stomach, as it is called, should not 
 wait till the stated time of the next meal, but take a small quanti- 
 ty of light, easily digested food, that the stomach may have some- 
 thing to work on. 
 
 Young persons in health, who use much exercise, may eat three 
 times a day. But such as are in years, such as are weak, as do 
 no work, use no exercise, or lead a sedentary life, eating twice in 
 the day is sufficient ; or, as in the present habits of society, it might 
 be difficult to arrange the taking only two meals, ]et them take 
 three very moderate ones. Old and weak persons may eat oflen, 
 but then it should be very little at a time. 
 
 The quality of our food is a subject of greater difficulty than 
 the quantity; moderation is an invariably safe guide in the latter 
 instance; but though always favorable to prevent ill effects from 
 any error in quality, it will not always be effectual. 
 
 To a person in good health, with a strong stomach, and whose 
 constant beverage is water, cold or tepid, according to the sea- 
 
DIET. 3011 
 
 aoxif or some aqueous liquor, the niceties of choice in food or 
 cookery are less material than to persons with naturally weak sto- 
 (inachs, or to those in sickness, or for children. But all persons 
 who would to a certainty preserve their health and faculties, and 
 live out the natural term of life, should use plain food, as all high 
 seasonings and compound mixtures have an injurious effect, soon- 
 er or later, on the strongest constitutions. If a few instances can 
 be quoted to the contrary, these, like other anomalies in nature, 
 cannot constitute an exception to a well established fact. 
 
 No part of our aliment is more important than our beverage. 
 It is essential to moisten and convey our more solid food into the 
 stomach, and from thence to the respective parts of the body. To 
 allay thirst, to dilute the blood, that it may circulate through the 
 minutest vessels, to dissolve and carry off by the watery secre- 
 tions the superfluous salts we take in our food; to answer these 
 purposes no liquid is so effectual as pure water, with the exception 
 of some few cases. No other liquid circulates so well, or mixes so 
 immediately with our fluids. All other liquors are impregnated 
 with particles which act strongly upon the solids or fluids, or both; 
 but water being simple, operates only by diluting, moistening, and 
 cooling, which are the great uses of drink pointed out to us by 
 nature. Hence it is evident that water is in general the best and 
 most wholesome drink; but some constitutions require something 
 to warm and stimulate the stomach, and then fermented liquors 
 taken in moderation are proper; such as beer, ale, cider, wine, 
 h-c. the choice and quantity of which depend on the age, consti- 
 tution, and manner of living of the drinker; and to have them 
 pure is above all things essential; as otherwise, instead of being 
 of any benefit, they will be highly detrimental. 
 
 Drams, or distilled spirituous liquors, the use of which is unhap- 
 pily very prevalent, are of the most poisonous qualities; and from 
 their direful effects are the destruction of thousands. From the 
 degree of heat they have undergone in distillation they acquire a 
 corrosive and burning quality, which makes them as certain to 
 kill as laudanum or arsenic, though not so soon. They contract 
 the fibres and vessels of the body, especially where they are 
 *the tenderest, as in the brain, and thus destroy the intellectual 
 faculties. They injure the coat of the stomach, and thus expose 
 the nerves and weaken the fibres till the whole stomach becomes 
 at last soft, flabby, and relaxed. From whence ensues loss of 
 appetite, indigestion, and diseases that generally terminate in 
 premature death. Spirituous liquors in any way, whether alone, 
 mixed with water, in punch, shrub, noyau, or other liqueurs, are 
 all slow poisons. 
 
 It would be endless to enter on an account of the different quali- 
 ties of all sorts of wines, but it may be said in general, that all 
 the light wines of a moderate strength, due age and maturity, are 
 more wholesome for ihe constitution than the rich, hot, strong, 
 
XIV BOILINO. 
 
 heavy wines; for the light wines inflame the juices of the body 
 less and go off the stomach with less difficulty. 
 
 The last thing to be said concerning liquors is, that wine and 
 all other strong liquors, are as hard to digest as solid strong food. 
 This is not only evident with respect to persons of weak stomachs 
 and digestion, but also from strong healthy people, who only 
 drink either water or small beer at their meals, and are able to 
 eat and digest almost double the quantity of what they could if 
 they drank strong liquors. It appears very plain, therefore, that 
 we should not drink strong liquors at our meals, as by their heat, 
 and activity they hurry the food undigested into the habit of the 
 body, and by that means lay a foundation for various distempers. 
 An abstinence, in short, from fermented liquors would preserve 
 our mental faculties in vigor, and our bodies from many painful 
 disorders that afflict mankind, as there is no doubt that we may 
 principally ascribe to them the gout, rheumatism, stone, cancer, 
 fevers, hysterics, lunacy, apoplexy, and palsy. 
 
 BOILING. 
 
 This most simple of culinary processes is not often performed in 
 perfection. It, does not require quite so much nicety and atten- 
 dance as roasting ; to skim your pot well, and keep it really boiling 
 (the slower the better) all the while, to know how long is required 
 for doing the joint, &c., and to take it up at the critical moment 
 when it is done enough, comprehends almost the whole art and 
 mystery. This, however, demands a patient and perpetual vigi- 
 lance, of which few persons are capable. 
 
 The cook must take especial care that the water really boils all 
 the while she is cooking, or she will be deceived in the time ; and 
 make up a sufficient fire at first, to last all the time, without much 
 mending or stirring. A frugal cook will manage with much less 
 fire for boiling than she uses for roasting. 
 
 When the pot is coming to a boil there will always, from the 
 cleanest meat and clearest water, rise a scum to the top of it, pro- 
 ceeding partly from the water ; this must be carefully taken off as 
 soon as it rises. 
 
 On this depends the good appearance of all boiled things. When 
 you have skimmed well, put in some cold water, which will throw 
 up the rest of the scum. 
 
 The oflener it is skimmed, and the cleaner the top of the water 
 is kept, the sweeter and the cleaner will be the meat. 
 
 If let alone, it soon boils down and sticks to the meat, which, 
 instead of looking delicately white and nice, will have that coarse 
 and filthy appearance we have too often to complain of, and the 
 butcher and poulterer be blamed for the carelessness of the cook 
 in not skinuning her pot. 
 
BOILING. XV 
 
 Many put in milk, to make what they boil look white ; but this 
 does more harm than good : others wrap it up in a cloth ; but 
 these are needless precautions : if the scum be attentively removed, 
 meat will have a much more delicate color and finer flavor than it 
 has when muffled up. This may give rather more trouble, but 
 those who wish to excel in their art must only consider how the 
 processes of it can be most perfectly performed : a cook, who has 
 a proper pride and pleasure in her business, will make this her 
 maxim on all occasions. 
 
 It is desirable that meat for boiling be of an equal thickness, or, 
 before thicker parts are done enough, the thinner will be done too 
 much. 
 
 Put your meat into cold water, in the proportion of about a quart 
 of water to a pound of meat : it should be covered with water during 
 the whole of the process of boiling, but not drowned in it ; the less 
 water, provided the meat be covered with it, the more savory will 
 be the meat, and the better will be the broth. 
 
 The water should be heated gradually, according to the thick- 
 ness, &c. of the article boiled. For instance, a leg of mutton of 
 ten pounds weight should be placed over a moderate fire, which 
 will gradually make the water hot, without causing it to boil for 
 about forty minutes ; if the water boils much sooner, the meat will 
 be hardened, and shrink up as if it was scorched : by keeping the 
 water a certain time heating without boiling, the fibres of the meat 
 are dilated, and it yields a quantity of scum, which must be taken 
 off as soon as it rises. 
 
 The editor placed a thermometer in water in that state which 
 cooks call gentle simmering ; the heat was 212^, i. e. the same 
 degree as the strongest boiling. 
 
 Two mutton chops were covered with cold water; one boiled a 
 gallop, while the other simmered very gently for three-quarters of 
 an hour : the chop which was slowly simmered was decidedly su- 
 perior to that which was boiled ; it was much tenderer, more juicy, 
 and much higher flavored. The liquor which boiled fast was in 
 like proportion more savory, and when cold had much more fat 
 on its surface. This explains why quick boiling renders meat 
 hard, &c., because its juices are extracted in a greater degree. 
 
 Reckon the time from its first coming to a boil. 
 
 The old rule of 15 minutes to a pound of meat, we think rather 
 too little : the slower it boils, the tenderer, the plumper, and whiter 
 it will be. 
 
 For those who choose their food thoroughly cooked (which all 
 will who have any regard for their stomachs), twenty minutes to a 
 pound for fresh, and rather more for salted meat, will not be found 
 too much for gentle simmering by the side of the fire, allowing 
 more or less time, according to the thickness of the joint, and the 
 coldness of the weather : to know the state of which, let a ther- 
 mometer be placed in the pantry ; and when it falls below 40 ®, tell 
 
Xn BAKING. 
 
 your cook to give rather more time in both roasting and boiling, 
 always remembering, the slower it boils the better. 
 
 Without some practice it is difficult to teach any art ; and cooks 
 seem to suppose they must be right, if they put meat into a pot, 
 and set it over the fire for a certain time, making no allowance 
 whether it simmers without a bubble or boils a gallop. 
 
 Fresh-killed meat will take much longer time boiling than that 
 which has been kept till it is what the butchers call tipe ; and long- 
 er in cold than in warm weather : if it h^ frozen, it must be thawed 
 before boiling as before roasting ; if it be fresh-killed, it will be 
 tough and hard, if you stew it ever so long, and ever so gently. 
 In cold weather, the night before the day you dress it, bring it into 
 a place of which the temperature is not less than 45 degrees of 
 Fahrenheit's thermometer. 
 
 The size of the boiling-pots should be adupted to what they are 
 to contain : the larger the saucepan the more room it takes upon 
 the fire, and a larger quantity of water requires a proportionate 
 increase of fire to boil it. 
 
 In small families we recommend block-tin saucepans, &c. as 
 lightest and safest. If proper care is taken of them, and they are 
 well dried after they are cleaned, they are by far the cheapest ; 
 the purchase of a new tin saucepan being little more than the ex- 
 pense of tinning a copper one. 
 
 Let the covers of your boiling-pots fit close, not only to prevent 
 unnecessary evaporation of the water, but to prevent the escape 
 of the nutritive matter, which must then remain either in the meat 
 or in the broth ; and the smoke is prevented from insinuating itself 
 under the edge of the lid, and so giving the meat a bad taste. 
 
 If you let meat or poultry remain in the water after it is done 
 enough, it will become sodden, and lose its flavor. 
 
 Beef and mutton a little wwder-done (especially very large joints, 
 which will make the better hash or broil,) is not a great fault ; by 
 some people it is preferred : but lamb, pork, and veal are uneata- 
 ble if not thoroughly boiled ; but do not over-Ao them. 
 
 A trivet or fish-drainer put on the bottom of the boiling-pot, raig* 
 ing the contents about an inch and a half from the bottom, will 
 prevent that side of the meat which comes next the bottom from 
 being done too much, and the lower part of the meat will be as 
 delicately done as the other part ; and this will enable you to take 
 out the contents of the pot, without sticking a fork, &.c. into it. 
 If you have not a trivet, use four skewers, or a soup-plate laid the 
 wrong side upwards. 
 
 BAKING. 
 
 Baking is one of the cheapest and most convenient ways of 
 dressing a dinner in small families; and, I may say, that the oven 
 is often the only kitchen a poor man has, if he wishes to enjoy a 
 joint of meat. 
 
BAKING. XVU 
 
 1 do not mean to deny the superior excellence of roasting to 
 baking; but some joints, when baked, so nearly approach to the 
 same when roasted, that I have known them to be carried to the 
 table, and eaten as such with great satisfaction. 
 
 Legs and loins of pork, legs of mutton, fillets of veal, and many 
 other joints, will bake to great advantage, if the meat be good; 
 I mean well-fed, rather inclined to be fat: if the meat be poor, no 
 baker can give satisfaction. 
 
 When baking a poor joint of meat, before it has been half 
 baked I have seen it start from the bone, and shrivel up scarcely 
 to be believed. 
 
 Besides those joints above mentioned, I shall enumerate a few 
 baked dishes which I can particularly recommend. 
 
 A pig, when sent to the baker prepared for baking, should have 
 its ears and tail covered with buttered paper properly fastened on, 
 and a bit of butter tied up in a piece of linen to baste the back 
 with, otherwise it will be apt to blister: with a proper share of 
 attention from the baker, I consider this way equal to a roasted 
 one. 
 
 A goose prepared the same as for roasting, taking care to have 
 it on a stand, and when half done to turn the other side upwards. 
 A duck the same. 
 
 A buttock of beef the following way is particularly fine. After 
 it has been in salt about a week, to be well washed, and put into 
 a brown earthen pan with a pint of water; cover the pan tight 
 with two or three thicknesses of cap or foolscap paper: never 
 cover anything that is to be baked with brown paper, the pitch 
 and tar that is in brown paper will give the meat a smoky, bad 
 taste: give it four or five hours in a moderately heated oven. 
 
 A ham (if not too old) put in soak for an hour, taken out and 
 wiped, a crust made sufficient to cover it all over, and baked in 
 a moderately heated oven, cuts fuller of gravy, and of a fin^r 
 flavor, than a boiled one. I have been in the habit of baking 
 small cod-fish, haddock, and mackerel, with a dust of flour, and 
 some bits of butter put on them; eels, when large and stuff*ed* 
 herrings and sprats, in a brown pan, with vinegar and a little 
 spice, and tied over with paper. A hare, prepared the same as 
 for roasting, with a few pieces of butter, and a little drop of milk 
 put into the dish, and basted several times, will be found nearly 
 equal to roasting; or cut it up, season it properly, put it into a 
 jar or pan, and cover it over and bake it in a moderate oven fOr 
 about three hours. In the same manner, I have been in the hab- 
 it of baking legs and shins of beef, ox cheeks, &c. prepared with 
 a seasoning of onions, turnips, &c.: they will take about four 
 hours: let them stand till cold, to skim off the fat; then warm it 
 up all together, or part, as you may want it. 
 
 All these I have been in the habit of baking for the first families. 
 
 The time each of the above articles should take depends much 
 upon the state of the oven, and I do consider the baker a suf- 
 
 B* 
 
XVm ROASTING. 
 
 ficient judge; if they are sent to him in time, he must be very 
 neglectful if they are not ready at the time they are ordered. 
 
 ROASTING. 
 
 Let the young cook never forget that cleanliness is the chief 
 cardinal virtue of the kitchen; the first preparation for roasting 
 is to take care that the spit be properly cleaned with sand and 
 water; nothing else. When it has been well scoured with this, 
 dry it with a clean cloth. If spits are wiped clean as soon as the 
 meat is drawn from them, and while they are hot, a very little 
 cleaning will be required. The less the spit is passed through 
 the meat the better; and, before you spit it, joint it properly, es- 
 pecially necks and loins, that the carver may separate them easi- 
 ly and neatly, and take especial care it be evenly balanced on 
 the spit, thai its motion may be regular, and the fire operate 
 equally on each part of it; therefore, be provided with balancing- 
 skewers and cookholds, and see it is properly jointed. 
 
 Make up the fire in time; let it be proportioned to the dinner 
 to be dressed, and about three or four inches longer at each end 
 than the thing to be roasted, or the ends of the meat cannot be 
 done nice and brown. 
 
 A cook must be as particular to proportion her fire to the busi- 
 ness she has to do, as a chemist: the degree of heat most desira- 
 ble for dressing the different sorts of food ought to be attended 
 to with the utmost precision. 
 
 The fire that is but just sufficient to receive the noble sirloin 
 will parch up a lighter joint. 
 
 Never put meat down to a burned-up fire, if you can possibly 
 avoid it; but should the fire become fierce, place the spit at a 
 considerable distance, and allow a little more time. 
 
 Preserve the fat, by covering it with paper, for this purpose 
 called " kitchen-paper," and tie it on with fine twine; pins and 
 skewers can by no means be allowed; they are so many taps to 
 let out the gravy: besides, the paper often starts from them and 
 catches fire, to the great injury of the meat. 
 
 If the thing to be roasted be thin and tender, the fire should 
 be little and brisk: when you have a large joint to roast, make up 
 a sound, strong fire, equally good in every part, or your meat 
 cannot be equally roasted, nor have that uniform color which 
 constitutes the beauty of good roasting. 
 
 Give the fire a good stirring before you lay the joint down; 
 examine it from time to time while the spit is going round ; keep 
 it clear at the bottom, and take care there are no smoky coals in 
 the front, which will spoil the look and taste of the meat, and 
 hinder it from roasting evenly. 
 
 When the joint to be roasted is thicker at one end than the 
 other, plf^ce th^ spit slanting, with the thickest part nearest the fire. 
 
ROASTING. xiX 
 
 Do not put meat too near the fire at first; the larger the joint) 
 the farther it must be kept from the fire: if once it gets scorched, 
 the outside will become hard, and acquire a disagreeable, empyr- 
 eumatic taste ; and the fire being prevented from penetrating into 
 it, the meat will appear done before it is little more than half 
 done, besides losing the pale brown color, which it is the beauty 
 of roasted meat to have. 
 
 Be very careful to place the dripping-pan at such a distance 
 from the fire as just to catch the drippings: if it is too near, the 
 ashes will fall into it, and spoil the drippings. 
 
 If it is too far from the fire to catch them, you will not only lose 
 your drippings, but the meat will be blackened and spoiled by 
 the fogtid smoke, which will arise when the fat falls on the live 
 cinders. 
 
 A large dripping-pan is convenient for several purposes. It 
 should not be less than twenty-eight inches long and twenty inch- 
 es wide, and have a covered well on the side from the fire, to 
 collect the drippings; this will preserve them in the most delicate 
 state : in a pan of the above size you may set fried fish, and vari- 
 ous dishes, to keep hot. 
 
 The time meat will take roasting will vary according to the 
 time it has been kept, and the temperature of the weather; the 
 same weight will be twenty minutes or half an hour longer in 
 cold weather, than it will be in warm; and if fresh killed, than if 
 it has been kept till it is tender. 
 
 Everybody knows the advantage of slow boiling. Slow roasting 
 is equally important. 
 
 It is difficult to give any specific rule for time; but if your fire 
 is made as before directed, your meat-screen sufficiently large to 
 guard what you are dressing from currents of air, and the meat 
 is not frosted, you cannot do better than follow the old general 
 rule of allowing rather more than a quarter of an hour to the 
 pound; a little more or less, according to the temperature of the 
 weather, in proportion as the piece is thick or thin, the strength 
 of the fire, the nearness of the meat to it, and the frequency with 
 which you baste it; the more it is basted the less time it will take, 
 as it keeps the meat sofi; and mellow on the outside, and the fire 
 acts with more force upon it. 
 
 Reckon the time, not to the hour when dinner is ordered, but 
 to the moment the roasts will be wanted. Supposing there are a 
 dozen people to sip soup and eat fish first, you may allow them 
 ten or fifteen minutes for the former, and about as long for the 
 latter, more or less, according to the temptations the "bon gout" 
 of these preceding courses has to attract their attention. 
 
 When the joiat is half done, remove the spit and dripping-pan 
 back, and stir up your fire thoroughly, that it may burn clear and 
 bright for the browning; when the steam from the meat draws to- 
 wards the fire, it is a sign of its being done enough; but you will 
 be the best judge of that, from the time it has been down, the 
 
XX PRYING. 
 
 strength of the fire you have used, and the distance your spit has 
 been from it. 
 
 Half an hour before your meat is done, make some gravy, and 
 just before you take it up, put it nearer the fire to brown it. If 
 you wish to froth it, baste it, and dredge it with flour carefully: 
 you cannot do this delicately nice without a very good light. 
 The common fault seems to be using too much flour. The meat 
 should have a fine light varnish of froth, not the appearance of 
 being covered with a paste. Those who are particular about the 
 froth use butter instead of drippings. 
 
 A good cook is as anxiously attentive to the appearance and 
 color of her roasts, as a young beauty is to her complexion at a 
 birthday ball. If your meat does not brown so much, or so even- 
 ly as you wish, take two ounces of glaze, i. e. portable soup, put 
 four table-spoonfuls of water, and let it warm and dissolve gradu- 
 ally by the side of the fire. This will be done in about a quarter 
 of an hour; put it on the meat equally all over with a paste-brush 
 the last thing before it goes to table. 
 
 Though roasting is one of the most common, and is generally 
 considered one of the most easy and simple processes of cook- 
 ery, it requires more unremitting attention to perform it perfect- 
 ly well than it does to make most made dishes. 
 
 That made dishes are the most difficult preparations, deserves 
 to be reckoned among the culinary vulgar errors; in plain roast- 
 ing and boiling it is not easy to repair a mistake once made; and 
 all the discretion and attention of a steady, careful cook, must 
 be unremittingly upon the alert. 
 
 FRYING. 
 
 Frying is often a convenient mode of cookery; it may be per- 
 formed by a fire which will not do for roasting or boiling; and by 
 the introduction of the pan between the meat and the fire, things 
 get more equally dressed. 
 
 The Dutch oven or bonnet is a very convenient utensil for small 
 things, and a very useful substitute for the jack, the gridiron, or 
 frying-pan. 
 
 A frying-pan should be about four inches deep, with a perfectly 
 flat and thick bottom, twelve inches long and nine broad, with 
 perpendicular sides, and must be half filled with fat: good frying 
 is, in fact, boiling in fat. To make sure that the pan is quite 
 clean, rub a little fat over it, and then make it warm, and wipe it 
 out with a clean cloth. 
 
 Be very particular in frying, never to use any oil, butter, lard, 
 or drippings, but what is quite clean, fresh, and free from salt. 
 Any thing dirty spoils the look; any thing bad-tasted or stale, 
 spoils the flavor; and salt prevents its browning. 
 
 Fine olive oil is the most delicate for frying; but the best oil is 
 expensive, and bad oil spoils every thing that is dressed with it. 
 
PRYING. xn 
 
 For general purposes, and especially for fish, clean fresh lard 
 is not near so expensive as oil or clarified butter, and does almost 
 as well. Butter often burns before you are aware of it; and what 
 you fry will get a dark and dirty appearance. 
 
 Dripping, if nicely clean and fresh, is almost as good as any 
 thing; if not clean, it may be easily clarified. Whatever fat you 
 use, after you have done frying, let it remain in the pan for a few 
 minutes, and then pour it through a sieve into a clean basin; it 
 will do three or four times as well as it did at first, i. e. if it has not 
 burned: but, the fat you have fried fish in must not be used for 
 any other purpose. 
 
 To know when the fat is of a proper heat, according to what 
 you are to fry, is the great secret in frying. 
 
 To fry fish, parsley, potatoes, or any thing that is watery, your 
 fire must be very clear, and the fat quite hot; which you may be 
 pretty sure of, when it has done hissing, and is still. We cannot 
 insist too strongly on this point: if the fat is not very hot, you 
 cannot fry fish either to a good color, or firm and crisp. 
 
 To be quite certain, throw a little bit of bread into the pan; if it 
 fries crisp, the fat is ready; if it burns the bread, it is too hot. 
 
 The fire under the pan must be clear and sharp, otherwise the 
 fat is so long before it becomes ready, and demands such attend- 
 ance to prevent the accident of its catching fire, that the patience 
 of cooks is exhausted, and they frequently, from ignorance or im- 
 patience, throw in what they are going to fry before the fat is half 
 hot enough. Whatever is so fried will be pale and sodden, and 
 offend the palate and stomach not less than the eye. 
 
 Have a good light to fry by, that you may see when you have 
 got the right color: a lamp fixed on a stem, with a loaded foot, 
 which has an arm that lengthens out, and slides up and down like 
 a reading candlestick, is a most useful appendage to kitchen fire- 
 places, which are very seldom light enough for the nicer opera- 
 tions of cookery. 
 
 After all, if you do not thoroughly drain the fat from what you 
 have fried, especially from those things that are full dressed in 
 bread crumbs, or biscuit powder, Slc, your cooking will do you 
 no credit. 
 
 The dryness of fish depends much upon its having been fried in 
 fat of a due degree of heat; it is then crisp and dry in a few min^ 
 utes after it is taken out of the pan: when it is not, lay it on a soft 
 cloth before the fire, turning it occasionally, till it is. This will 
 sometimes take fifteen minutes: therefore, always fry fish as long 
 as this before you want them, for fear you may find this necessary. 
 
 To fry fish, see receipt to fry soles, which is the only circum- 
 stantial account of the process that has yet been printed. If the 
 cook will study it with a little attention, she must soon become an 
 accomplished frier. 
 
 Frying, though one of the most common of culinary operations, 
 is one that is least commonly performed perfectly well. 
 
ZXU BROILING. 
 
 BROILING. 
 
 Cleanliness is extremely essential in this mode of cookery. 
 
 Keep your gridiron quite clean between the bars, and bright on 
 the top: when it is hot, wipe it well with a linen cloth: just before 
 you use it, rub the bars with clean mutton-suet, to prevent the 
 meat from being marked by the gridiron. 
 
 Take care to prepare your fire in time, so that it may burn 
 quite clear; a brisk and clear fire is indispensable, or you cannot 
 give your meat that browning which constitutes the perfection of 
 this mode of cookery, and gives a relish to food it cannot receive 
 any other way. 
 
 The chops or slices should be from half to three-quarters of an 
 inch in thickness; if thicker, they will be done too much on the 
 outside before the inside is done enough. 
 
 Be diligently attentive to watch the moment that any thing ig 
 done: never hasten any thing that is broiling, lest you make 
 smoke and spoil it. 
 
 Let the bars of the gridiron be all hot through, but yet not 
 burning hot upon the surface: this is the perfect and fine condition 
 of the gridiron. 
 
 As the bars keep away as much heat ^s their breadth covers, it 
 is absolutely necessary they should be thoroughly hot before the 
 thing to be cooked be laid on them. 
 
 The bars of gridirons should be made concave, and terminate in 
 a trough to catch the gravy and keep the fat from dropping into 
 the fire and making a smoke, which will spoil the broil. 
 
 Upright gridirons are the best, as they can be used at any fire 
 without fear of smoke; and the gravy is preserved in the trough 
 under them. 
 
 N. B. Broils must be brought to table as hot as possible; set a 
 dish to heat when you put your chops on the gridiron, from whence 
 to the mouth their progress must be as quick as possible. 
 
 When the fire is not clear, the business of the gridiron may be 
 done by the Dutch oven or bonnet. 
 
 Take care to have a very clear, brisk fire ; throw a little salt on 
 it; make the gridiron hot, and set it slanting, to prevent the fat 
 from dropping into the fire, and making a smoke. It requires 
 more practice and care than is generally supposed to do steaks to 
 a nicety; and for want of these little attentions, this very common 
 dish, which every body is supposed capable of dressing, seldom 
 comes to table in perfection. 
 
 Ask those you cook for, if they like it under, or thoroughly 
 done; and what accompaniments they like best; it is usual to put 
 a table-spoonful of ketchup, or a little minced eschalot, into a dish 
 before the fire; while you are broiling, turn the steak, &c. with a 
 pair of steak-tongs, it will be done in about tenor fifteen minutes; 
 rub a bit of butter over it, and send it up garnished with pickles 
 and finely-scraped horse-radish. 
 
BROTHS AND SOUPS. XlHi 
 
 BROTHS AND SOUPS. 
 
 The cook must pay continual attention to the condition of her 
 stew-pans, soup-kettles, &c. which should be examined every time 
 they are used. The prudent housewife will carefully examine the 
 condition of them herself at least once a month. Their covers 
 also must be kept perfectly clean and well tinned, and the stew- 
 pans not only on the inside, but about a couple of inches on the 
 outside: many mischiefs arise from their getting out of repair; 
 and if not kept nicely tinned, all your good work will be in vain; 
 the broths and soups will look green and dirty, taste bitter and 
 poisonous, and will be spoiled both for the eye and palate, and 
 your credit will be lost. 
 
 The health, and even life of the family, depends upon this, and 
 the cook may be sure her employers had rather pay the tinman's 
 bill than the doctor's; therefore, attention to this cannot fail to 
 engage the regard of the mistress, between whom and the cook it 
 will be my utmost endeavor to promote perfect harmony. 
 
 If she has the misfortune to scorch or blister the tinning of her 
 pan, which will happen sometimes to the most careful cook, I ad- 
 vise her, by all means, immediately to acquaint her employers, 
 who will thank her for candidly mentioning an accident; and cen- 
 sure her deservedly if she conceal it. 
 
 Take care to be properly provided with sieves and tammy cloths, 
 spoons and ladles. Make it a rule without an exception, never to 
 use them till they are well cleaned and thoroughly dried, nor any 
 stew-pans, &€. without first washing them out with boiling water, 
 and rubbing them well with a dry cloth and a little bran, to clean 
 them from grease, sand, &.C., or any bad smell they may have got 
 since they were last used: never neglect this. 
 
 Though we do not suppose our cook to be such a naughty slut 
 as to wilfully neglect her broth-pots; &c., yet we may recommend 
 her to wash them immediately, and take care they are thoroughly 
 dried at the fire, before they are put by, and to keep them in a dry 
 place, for damp will rust and destroy them very soon: attend to 
 this the first moment you can spare after the dinner is sent up. 
 
 Never put by any soup, gravy, &c. in metal utensils; in which 
 never keep any thing longer than is absolutely necessary for the 
 purposes of cookery; the acid, vegetables, fat, &c. employed in 
 making soups, &c. are capable of dissolving such utensils: there- 
 fore stone or earthern vessels should be used for this purpose. 
 
 Stew-pans, soup-pots, and preserving pans, with thick and round 
 bottoms (such as saucepans are made with), will wear twice as 
 long, and are cleaned with half the trouble, as those whose sides 
 are soldered to the bottom, for sand and grease get into the 
 joined part, and cookeys say that it is next to an impossibility to 
 dislodge it, even if their nails are as long as Nebuchadnezzar's. 
 
 Take care that the lids fit as close as possible, that the broth. 
 
BROTHS AND SOUPS. 
 
 soup, and sauces, &c. may not waste by evaporation. They are 
 good for nothing, unless they fit tight enough to keep the steam in 
 and the smoke out. 
 
 Stew-pans and saucepans should be always bright on the upper 
 rim, where the fire does not burn them; but to scour them all over 
 is not only giving the cook needless trouble, but wearing out the 
 vessels. 
 
 Lean, juicy beef, mutton, or veal, form the basis of broth; pro- 
 cure those pieces which afford the richest succulence, and as fresh 
 killed as possible. 
 
 Stale meat will make broth grouty and bad tasted, and fat meat 
 is wasted. This only applies to those broths which are required 
 to be perfectly clear: fat and clarified drippings may be so com- 
 bined with vegetable mucilage, as to afford, at the small cost of 
 one penny per quart, a nourishing and palatable soup, fully ade- 
 quate to satisfy appetite and support strength: this will open a 
 new source to those benevolent housekeepers, who are disposed 
 to relieve the poor, will show the industrious classes how much 
 they have it in their power to assist themselves, and rescue them 
 from being objects of charity dependent on the precarious bounty 
 of others, by teaching them how they may obtain a cheap, abun- 
 dant, salubrious, and agreeable aliment for themselves and fam- 
 ilies. 
 
 This soup has the advantage of being very easily and very soon 
 made, with no more fuel than is necessary to warm a room. Those 
 who have not tasted it, cannot imagine what a salubrious, savory, 
 and satisfying meal is produced by the judicious combination of 
 cheap homely ingredients. -" 
 
 The general fault of our soups seems to be the employment of 
 an excess of spice, and too small a portion of roots and herbs. 
 
 There is no French dinner without soup, which is regarded as 
 an indispensable overture; and believe it an excellent plan to begin 
 the banquet with a basin of good soup, which, by moderating the 
 appetite for solid animal food, is certainly a salutiferous custom. 
 
 We again caution the cook to avoid over-seasoning, especially 
 with predominant flavors, which, however agreeable they may be 
 to some, are extremely disagreeable to others. 
 
 Zest, soy, cavice, coratch, anchovy, curry powder, savory ra- 
 gout powder, soup herb powder, browning, ketchups, pickle li- 
 quor, beer, wine, and sweet herbs, and savory spice, are very 
 convenient auxiliaries to finish soups, &c. 
 
 The proportion of wine should not exceed a large wine-glass- 
 ful to a quart of soup. This is as much as can be admitted, 
 without the vinous flavor becoming remarkably predominant; 
 though not only much larger quantities of wine (of which claret is 
 incomparably the best, because it contains less spirit and more 
 flavor, and English palates are less acquainted with it), but even 
 veritable eau de vie is ordered in many books, and used by many 
 (especially tavern cooks). So much are their soups overloaded 
 
BROTHS AND SOUPS. aOBT 
 
 with relish^ that if you will eat enough of them they will certainly 
 make you drunk, if they don't make you sick: all this frequently 
 arises from an old cook measuring the excitability of the eaters' 
 palates by his own, which may be so blunted by incessant tasting, 
 that to awaken it, requires win3 instead of water, and cayenne 
 and garlic for black pepper and onion. 
 
 The art of Composing a rich soup is so to proportion the seve- 
 ral ingredients one to another, that no particular taste be strong- 
 er than the rest, but to produce such a fine harmonious relish that 
 the whole is delightful. This requires that judicious combination 
 of the materials which constitutes the ''ch^f d^osuvre'^ of culinary 
 science. 
 
 In the first place, take care that the roots and herbs be per- 
 fectly well cleaned; proportion the water to the quantity of meat 
 and other ingredients, generally a pound of meat to a quart of 
 water for soups, and double that quantity for gravies. If they 
 stew gently, little more water need be put in at first than is ex- 
 pected at the end; for when the pot is covered quite close, and 
 the fire gentle, very little is wasted. 
 
 Gentle stewing is incomparably the best; the meat is more ten- 
 der, and the soup better flavored. 
 
 It is of the first importance that the cover of a soup-kettle 
 should fit very close, or the broth will evaporate before you are 
 aware of it. 
 
 Place your soup-pot over a moderate fire, which will make the 
 water hot without causing it to boil for at least half an hour; if 
 the water boils immediately, it will not penetrate the meat, and 
 cleanse it from the clotted blood, and other matters which ought to 
 go off in scum; the meat will be hardened all over by violent heat; 
 will shrink up as if it was scorched, and give hardly any gravy: 
 on the contrary, by keeping the water a certain time heating with- 
 out boihng, the meat swells, becomes tender, its fibr is are dilated, 
 and it yields a quantity of scum, which must be taken off as soon 
 as it appears. 
 
 It is not till after a good half hdur*s hot infusion that we may 
 mend the fire, and make the pot boil : still continue to remove the 
 scum; and when no more appears, put in the vegetables, &c. and 
 a little salt. These will cause more scum to rise, which must be 
 taken off immediately; then cover the pot very closely, and place 
 it at a proper distance from the fire, where it will boil very gently, 
 and equally, and by no means fast. 
 
 By quick and strong boiling the volatile and finest parts of th.^ 
 ingredients are evaporated, and fly ofl^ with the steam, and the 
 coarser parts are rendered soluble ; so you lose the good, and get 
 the bad. 
 
 Soups will generally take from three to six hours. 
 
 Prepare your broths and soups the evening before you want 
 them. This will give you more time to attend to the rest of your 
 dmner the next day; and when the soup is cold, the fat may be 
 
 O 
 
XXVI BROTHS AND SOUPS. 
 
 much more easily and completely removed from the surface of it. 
 When you decant it, take care not to disturb the settlings at the 
 bottom of the vessel, which are so line that they will escape through 
 a sieve, or even through a tamis, which is the best strainer, the 
 soups appear smoother and finer, and it is much easier cleaned 
 than any sieve. If you strain it while it is hot, pass it through a 
 clean tamis or napkin, previously soaked in cold water ; the cold- 
 ness of^ this will coagulate the fat, and only suffer the pure broth 
 to pass through. 
 
 The full flavor of the ingredients can only be extracted by very 
 long and slow simmering ; during which take care to prevent 
 evaporation, by covering the pot as close as possible: the best 
 stew-pot is a digester. 
 
 Clear soups must 1)e perfectly transparent; thickened soups, 
 about the consistence of rich cream; and remember that thickened 
 soups require nearly double the quantity of seasoning. 
 
 To thicken and give body to soups and sauces, the following 
 materials are used: they must be gradually mixed with the soup 
 till thoroughly incorporated with it; and it should have at least 
 half an hour's gentle simmering after: if it is at all lumpy, pass it 
 through a tamis or a fine sieve. Bread raspings, bread, isinglass, 
 potato mucilage, flour, or fat skimmings and flour, or flour and 
 butter, barley, rice, or oatmeal and water rubbed well together. 
 
 To their very rich gravies, &c. the French add the white meat 
 of partridges, pigeons, or fowls, pounded to a pulp, and rubbed 
 through a sieve. A piece of beef, which has been boiled to make 
 broth, pounded in the like manner with a bit of butter and flour, 
 and gradually incorporated with the gravy or soup, will be found 
 a satisfactory substitute for these more expensive articles. 
 
 Meat from which broth has been made and all its juice has been 
 extracted, is then excellently well prepared for potting, and is 
 quite as goo(?, or better, than that which has been baked till it is 
 dry; indeed, if it be pounded, and seasoned in the usual manner, 
 it will be an elegant and savory luncheon, or supper, and costs 
 nothing but the trouble of preparing it, which is very httle, and a 
 relish is procured for sandwiches, &c. of what heretofore has been 
 by the poorest housekeeper considered the perquisite of the cat. 
 
 Keep some spare broth lest your soup-liquor waste in boiling, 
 and get too thick, and for gravy for your made dishes, various 
 sauces, &c, ; for many of which it is a much better basis than 
 melted butter. 
 
 The soup of mock turtle, and the other thickened soups, will 
 supply you with a thick gravy sauce (or poultry, fish, ragouts, &c.; 
 and by a little management of this sort, you may generally con- 
 trive to have plenty of good gravies and good sauces with very 
 little trouble or expense. 
 
 If soup is too thin or too weak, take off the cover of your soup- 
 pot, and let it boil till some of the watery part of it has evaporated, 
 or else add some of the thickening materials we have before men- 
 
OBSERVATIONS, XXVll, 
 
 tioned ; and have at hand some plain browning. This simple pre- 
 paration is much better than any of the compounds bearing that 
 name ; as it colors sauce or soup without much interfering with its 
 flavor, and is a much better way of coloring them than burning 
 the surface of the meat. 
 
 When soups and gravies are kept from day to day, in hot weather^ 
 they should be warmed up every day, and put into fresh-scalded 
 tureens or pans, and placed in a cool cellar; in temperate weather 
 every other day may be enough. 
 
 We hope we have now put the common cook into possession of 
 the whole arcana of soup-making, without much trouble to herself, 
 or expense to her employers. It would greatly diminish the ex- 
 pense, and improve soups, if the agents employed to give them a 
 zest were not put in above fifteen minutes before the finish, and 
 half the quantity of spice, &c. would do. A strong heat soon dis- 
 sipates the spirit of the wine, and evaporates the aroma and flavor 
 of the spices and herbs, which are volatile in the heat of boiling 
 water. 
 
 Warm fluids, in the form of soup, unite with our juices much 
 sooner and better than those that are cold and raw : on this ac- 
 count, RESTORATIVE SOUP is the bost food for those who are en- 
 feebled by disease or dissipation, and for old people, whose teeth 
 and digestive organs are impaired. 
 
 After catching cold, in nervous headaches, cholics, indigestions, 
 and different kinds of cramp and spasms in the stomach, warm 
 broth is of excellent service. 
 
 After intemperate feasting, to give the stomach a holyday for a 
 day or two by a diet on mutton broth, or vegetable soup, &c. is the 
 best way to restore its tone. " The stretching any power to its 
 utmost extent weakens it. If the stomach be every day obliged to 
 do as much as it can, it will every day be able to do less. A wise 
 traveller will never force his horse to perform as much as he can 
 in one day upon a long journey." 
 
 OBSERVATIONS ON CERTAIN ARTICLES. 
 
 We shall conclude these Introductory Observations, with a few 
 remarks on the qualities of certain Articles in common use. 
 
 Butter. 
 
 Well made pure butter is lenient and nourishing, eaten cold, 
 in moderation, with bread. But upon hot new bread, or hot 
 toast, or used as sauce to animal food, it is not wholesome. In 
 the two first instances it is very apt to turn acid in the stomach; 
 and in the latter, to float uppermost in the stomach, and disturb 
 the digestion. If melted thick and carefully, and eaten with 
 vegetable food and bread only, it is not so liable to this objection. 
 
 Butter is good for dry, constipated habits, but not for such as 
 are bilious, asthmatic, or corpulent, 
 
XXVUl OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 Honey. ■ *^ ■ 
 
 Honey is nourishing and wholesome, particularly for persons 
 
 with coughs, weak lungs, and short breath. It is balsamic, 
 
 cleansing, and makes the body soluble. 
 
 Great care should be taken to get it fresh and pure; it is apt 
 
 to turn sour by long keeping. 
 
 Sugar. 
 Sugar used in moderation is nourishing and good, but much 
 of it destroys the appetite, and injures the digestion. Moist 
 sugar is the sweetest, and most opening; refined sugar, of a bind- 
 ing nature. The preparations made of sugar, such as barley- 
 sugar, sugar-candy, &c. are all indigestible and bad, as the good 
 properties of the sugar are destroyed by the process it undergoes 
 in the making them. They are particularly injurious to children, 
 from cloying their delicate stomachs. Young children are in 
 general better without sugar, as it is very apt to turn acid and 
 disagree with weak stomachs; and the kind of food they take 
 has natural sweetness enough in it not at all to require it. 
 
 Salt. 
 
 Salt, moderately used, especially with flesh, fish, butter, and 
 cheese, is very beneficial, as it naturally stimulates weak or dis- 
 ordered stomachs, and checks fermentations. But if it be im- 
 moderately used it has a contrary eflTect. Very little salt should 
 be used with vegetable food of the grain or seed kind ; for the 
 less salt that is put to it the milder, cooler, pleasanter, and easier 
 of digestion it will be. Salt excites the appetite, assists the 
 stomach in digesting crude phlegmatic substances, is cleansing, 
 and prevents putrefaction; but if too much used, it heats and dries 
 the blood and natural moisture. It is best for phlegmatic, cold, 
 and moist stomachs; and most injurious to hot, lean bodies. 
 
 Salt-petre is particularly bad for bilious persons. 
 
 Vinegar. 
 
 Vinegar is cooling, opening, excites the appetite, assists diges- 
 tion, is good for hot stomachs, resists putrefaction, and there- 
 fore very good against pestilential diseases. Too much use of it 
 injures the nerves, emaciates some constitutions, is hurtful to the 
 breast, and makes people look old and withered, with pale lips. 
 
 The best vinegar is that which is made of the laest wines. 
 Lemon-juice and verjuice have much the same qualities and ef- 
 fects as vinegar. 
 
 The commonest vinegar is least adulterated. 
 
 Mustard. 
 Mustard quickens the appetite, warms the stomach, assbts in 
 digesting hard meats, and dries up surperfluous moisture. It sel- 
 dom agrees with weak stomachs. 
 
OBSERVATIONS. 30UJIC 
 
 ■ * 
 
 Spices. 
 
 Cayenne pepper, black pepper, and ginger, may be esteemed 
 the best of spices. 
 
 Nutmegs, cloves, mace, cinnamon, and allspice, are generally 
 productive of indigestion and headache to weak persons. 
 
 Garlic, Sfc. 
 
 Garlic, onions, rocambole, shallots, leeks, and horse-radish, 
 are occasionally good for strong stomachs, but generally disa- 
 gree with weak stomachs. 
 
 Tea. 
 
 The frequent drinking of a quantity of strong tea, as is the 
 general practice, relaxes and weakens the tone of the stomach, 
 whence proceeds nausea and indigestion, with a weakness of the 
 nerves, and flabbiness of the flesh, and very often a pale wan 
 complexion. Milk, when mixed with it in some quantity, lessens 
 its bad qualities, by rendering it softer, and nutritious; and, with 
 a moderate quantity of sugar, it may then be a proper breakfast, 
 as a diluent, to those who are strong, and live freely, in order to 
 cleanse the alimentary passages, and wash off the salts from the 
 kidneys and bladder. But persons of weak nerves ought to ab- 
 stain from it as carefully as from drams and cordial drops; as it 
 causes the same kind of irritation on the tender delicate fibres of 
 the stomach, which ends in lowness, trembling and vapors. 
 
 It should never be drank hot by any body. Green tea is less 
 wholesome than black or bohea. 
 
 Coffee. 
 
 CoflTee afl^ords very little nourishment, and is apt to occasion 
 heat, dryness, stimulation and tremors of the nerves, and for 
 these reasons is thought to occasion palsies, watchfulness, and 
 leanness. Hence it is very plain that it must be pernicious to hot, 
 dry, and bilious constitutions. If moderately used it may be 
 beneficial to phlegmatic persons, but, if drank very strong, or in 
 great quantities, it will prove injurious even to them. 
 
 The following remarks on Coffee, were published in London, 
 by a physician. 1st. The raw coffee should be round and small 
 grained, free from dirt and of a light color. It should have no 
 appearance of mouldiness, and be kept quite free from any strong 
 smell. It should not be long kept in sacks with other provisions, 
 as there is no substance more apt to obtain strong and disagree- 
 able odors from the presence of its neighbors. Rum injures it; 
 and Miller even goes so far as to state that a few bags of pepper 
 on board a ship from India upon one occasion spoiled the whole 
 cargo. 
 
 C2 
 
^^^ OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 2nd. When the grains are large, flat, and of a green color, 
 they should be kept on hand, in a dry situation, a long tinie before 
 use. Every West India planter knows this fact, although his 
 interest often induces him to send the article to market before it 
 is old and dry enough. 
 
 3d. Roasting coffee is by far the most difficult operation of the 
 housekeeper; when carried far enough, an aromatic oil is formed 
 by the heat and forces itself out upon the surface of the grains, 
 giving them a glossy appearance, and an odor which is consider- 
 ed their perfection; yet too little roasting prevents the aroma 
 from appearing, and too much completely volatilizes it, leaving 
 nothing but a flat bitter taste. The heat should be strong and 
 the operation shortened as much as possible without burning the 
 grains. The roaster should be close or well covered all the time, 
 and in order to improve the looks and flavor, a small piece of 
 butter may be added to the coffee, while parching. 
 
 4th. When thus prepared, coffee may be preserved for use in 
 large quantities, without losing much of its freshness, provided 
 the vessels containing it be well covered. 
 
 5th. An infusion of coffee is better than a decoction, simply 
 because the heat, in the last case, being stronger and more last- 
 ing, drives off more of the aromatic oil. It is better, therefore, 
 to grind the coffee very fine, and then to expose it, by means of 
 a bag or strainer, to the action of boiling water, than to boil it 
 any length of time. Heat, though unavoidable, injures the flavor, 
 and the best coffee I remember to have tasted was made by ex- 
 posing the powder to a pressure of cold water; a tea-spoonful of 
 this extract, thrown into a cup of hot water, was sufficient. It is 
 not a bad method to allow the ground coffee to lie in cold water 
 between meals, and then prepare it by adding hot water. Just in 
 proportion to the continuance of heat, in this and in the last 
 operation, the fragrance disappears, and is replaced by a strong 
 bitter taste, which, according to the experiments of Chenevix, de- 
 pends upon the presence of tannin (resembling that in tan bark). 
 Roasting, besides forming this bitter substance, deprives the cof- 
 fee of its nutritious qualities. 
 
 Chocolate. 
 
 Is rich, nutritious, and soothing, saponaceous, and cleansing; 
 from v/hich quality it often helps digestion, and excites the appe- 
 tite. It is only proper for some of the leaner and stronger sort of 
 phlegmatic constitutions, and some old people who are healthy, 
 and accustomed to bodily exercise. 
 
 Cocoa, 
 
 Is of the same nature as chocolate, but not so rich; and there- 
 fore lighter upon the stomach. 
 
OBSERVATIONS. XXXi 
 
 Fruit. 
 
 Fruits are of different degrees of digestibility. Those ofd. hard 
 texture, as some kinds of apples, melons, apricots, several sorts 
 of fleshy plums, and all immature fruits, are difficult of digestion. 
 
 Strawberries, raspberries, currants, gooseberries, cherries, 
 green-gages, peaches, nectarines, melting pears, mulberries, figs, 
 grapes, medlars, when all quite ripe, are more easily dissolved in 
 the stomach. 
 
 Fruit, moderately eaten, is wholesome, particularly as correct- 
 ing the grossness of animal food. But an excess of it, and es- 
 pecially of unripe fruit, is productive of many diseases; amongst 
 children in particular, it often occasions such as the nettle rash 
 and St. Anthony's fire. 
 
 Fruit invariably disagrees with bilious persons; but is a sover- 
 eign remedy for the sea scurvy, and for diseases arising from an 
 excess of animal food. 
 
 JWits and Almonds. 
 Most kinds of nuts, and almonds, from their milky or oily na- 
 ture, contain a good deal of nourishment; but they require to be 
 well chewed, as they are difficult of digestion. Persons with 
 weak stomachs should not eat them. The worst time at which 
 they can be eaten is after a meal. 
 
 Olives. 
 Olives that have been gathered immature or unripe, and put into 
 a pickle to keep them sound, are apt, especially if frequently eaten, 
 to obstruct the stomach and passages. The best way of eating 
 them is with good bread, when the stomach is properly empty. To 
 eat them upon a full stomach is very bad. 
 
 NOTE. 
 
 Receipts for making all kinds of Bread, Biscuits, Blancmange, 
 Buns, Broth, Cakes, Creams, Custards, Jams, Jellies, Paste, Pies, 
 Puddings, Soups, Sauces, &c., will be found under these general 
 heads ; the method of cooking the several meats are arranged under 
 the name of each meat. Still there are interspersed throughout the 
 book single receipts under the letter of the name, of which many of 
 the above articles are composed. We will instance the following, 
 viz : — 
 
 Cakes, — Almond, Crumpets, Echaudes, Fanchonettes, Flemish wa- 
 fers, Frangipane, Gateau, Gingerbread, Hedgehog, Jumbles, 
 Kisses, Lemon Bonbons, Macaroons, Madelains, Meat, Muf- 
 fins, Oat, Orange, Perlingo, Sally Lunns. 
 Bread, — Almond, Brentford, Filbert, French Rolls, Rusks. 
 Creams, — Under various fruits of which they are made. 
 Veal, — Frinr's chicken, Gratin, and many articles under Calf. 
 Fowls, — See also Chickens, Capons. 
 Beef, — See also Ox. 
 
XXXIU 
 
 The following Engraving represents the method of dividing an Ox 
 for the table, in England, and in most of the southern cities of the 
 United States. The method in Boston varies considerably, dividing 
 into smaller pieces, and this plan we pursue in the following tables y 
 but the manner of cooking each is nearly the same. 
 
 1. Sirloin. 
 
 10. Fore rib: Five ribs. 
 
 2. Rump. 
 
 11. Middle rib: Four ribs. 
 
 3. Edge Bone. 
 
 12. Chuck: Three ribs. 
 
 4. Buttock. 
 
 13. Shoulder or leg-of-mutton pierc. 
 
 5. Mouse Buttock. 
 
 14. Brisket. 
 
 6. Veiny Piece. 
 
 15. Clod. 
 
 7. Thick Flank. 
 
 16. Neck, or Sticking Piece. 
 
 8. Thin Flank. 
 
 17. Shin. 
 
 9. Leg. 
 
 18. Cheek. 
 
MARKETING TABLES. 
 
 BEEF. 
 THE HIND QUARTER. 
 
 Sirloin 
 Rump 
 Edge Bone 
 
 Round 
 
 Veiny Piece 
 Thick Flank 
 Thin Flank 
 Leg Ran 
 Leg 
 
 Price per lb. 
 
 10 to 12 cents 
 
 10 to 12 „ 
 
 6 to 8 „ 
 
 8 to 10 „ 
 
 6 to 8 „ 
 
 6 to 8 „ 
 
 6 „ 
 
 4 „ 
 
 2 „ 
 
 Method of cooking. 
 Roasted. 
 
 Roasted, or Steak, or Stew. 
 Boiled. 
 
 i Alamode, Boiled, or savory salt- 
 
 ( ed Beef. 
 
 Steaks or Roast ; or baked or salted. 
 Steaks, or corned. 
 
 do. 
 Boil ; Soup, or Stew* 
 Soup or Stew. 
 
 THE FORE QUARTER. 
 
 First Cut, 2 Ribs 
 Second Cut, 2 Ribs 
 Third Cut, 2 Ribs 
 Fourth Cut, 2 Ribs 
 Chuck Rib 
 
 Shoulder of Mutton Piece 
 Shoulder Clod 
 
 Brisket 
 
 Rattleran 
 Sticking Piece 
 Neck 
 
 Shin 
 
 Head (20 cents) 
 
 Tail (2 cents) 
 
 Heels, given with the head 
 
 10 cents 
 
 10 „ 
 
 8 „ 
 
 6 „ 
 
 5 „ 
 
 5 „ 
 
 3 „ 
 
 Roast, 
 do. 
 do. 
 do. 
 Boil or Stew, or for making gravy. 
 Steaks or Bouilli. 
 Boil or Soup, or Beef Sausages. 
 
 ( Boil, or Bouilli ; or stewing, or 
 
 I Harricot, or Salted. 
 Boil. 
 
 Boil, or Soup. 
 Gravy. 
 
 i Soup ; excellent Scotch barley 
 
 ( Broth, Stewed. 
 Soup, Stewed. 
 Soup, Stewed. 
 Boiled, Jelly, Soup. 
 
 MUTTON. 
 
 Leg 
 Loin 
 
 Rack, neck end 
 
 8 to 10 cents Boil, Roast. 
 
 6 to 8 
 5 to 6 
 
 Rack, best end 6 to 8 
 
 Shoulder 6 
 
 Breast 6 
 
 Head 4 
 
 The Chine or the Saddle 
 Loins. The Haunch 
 Leg and part of the Loin. 
 
 two \ 
 is a V 
 in, j 
 
 Chops — Roast, Boil, 
 
 j Boil, Roast, Irish Stew, Harricot> 
 
 ( Stewed, Broth. 
 Chops, or Broth. 
 Roast. 
 
 Broth, — Grilled. 
 Broth. 
 
 Roasted, Venisonified, 
 
XXXIV 
 
 MARKETING. 
 
 Loin 
 
 Leg ,, 
 
 Fillet „ 
 
 Knuckle, or whole Leg 8 
 
 Breast 8 to 10 
 
 Breast and Neck 6 
 
 Rack 6 
 
 Shoulder 6 
 
 Brisket 8 
 
 Cutlets 10 
 
 VEAL, 
 
 8 to 10 cents Roast, 
 
 Cutlets, Roast, Boil. 
 
 j Roasted, Veal Olives, Scotch 
 
 \ Collops. 
 
 Broth, Ragout, Stew, Soup. 
 Roast, 
 
 Roast, Stew, Ragout, Curry. 
 Soup — Chops to fry. 
 Roast, or Bake. 
 Stewed, Ragout. 
 Fried, Broiled. 
 
 Head, scalded, (50 to 60 cts. each) Broiled plain. Hash. 
 
 Beef is plentiest and cheapest from October to January ; and best 
 Jrom January to May. 
 
 Veal is best from April to July. 
 
 Mutton is best from October to June» 
 
 Grass Lamb is best from June to October. 
 
 The Quality of Butcher Meat varies quite as nmch cw the price of it 
 — according to its age — how it has been fed — and especially how it has 
 been treated the week before it has been killed. 
 
 
 PORK. 
 
 
 
 Comes into Market. 
 
 Plentiest 
 
 Roasting Pigs 
 
 May 
 
 June. 
 
 Quarter Pork 
 
 July 
 
 August. 
 
 Spare Ribs and Chine 
 
 Aug. 
 
 Nov. & Dec. 
 
 Middlings 
 
 salt, all the year. 
 
 
 Bacon Hams 
 
 November, and continue all the year. 
 
 
 POULTRY. 
 
 
 
 Cornea into Market. 
 
 Plentiest. 
 
 Chickens 
 
 July 
 
 Nov. 
 
 Fowls 
 
 All the year 
 
 do. 
 
 Ducks 
 
 July 
 
 October. 
 
 Geese 
 
 August 
 
 Nov. 
 
 Turkeys 
 
 September 
 
 Nov. & Dec. 
 
 Wild Ducks 
 
 do. 
 
 Oct. & Apr.' 
 
 Brants 
 
 April 
 
 May. 
 
 Partridges 
 
 September 
 
 October. 
 
 Quails 
 
 do. 
 
 January. 
 
 Woodcocks 
 
 July 
 
 August. 
 
 Obs. — Poultry is in greatest perfection, when in greatest plenty. 
 
 The price of it varies as much as the size and quality of it, and the 
 supply at market, and the demamd for it. 
 
 It is generally dearest from. March to July, and cheapest about Sep- 
 tember, when the Game season commences, and the weather being colder^ 
 allows of its being brought from more distant parts. 
 
MARKETING. XXXV 
 
 The above information will, we trusty he very acceptable to Economi- 
 cal Families^ who, from hearing the very high price Poultry sometimes 
 costs, are deterred from ever inquiring about it. In the cheap seasons 
 we have noted, it is sometimes as cheap as Butcher-meat. 
 
 Those who pay the highest, do not always pay the dearest, price. In 
 fact, the Best Meat is the cheapest ; and those who treat a tradesman 
 liberally, have a much better chance of being well served, than those who 
 are forever bargaining for the Market Penny. In dividing the Joints, 
 there is always an opportunity of apportioning the Bones, Fat, Flaps, 
 Sfc. so as to make up a variation of much more than a penny per pound 
 in mast pieces ; and a Butcher will be happy to give the turn of his knife 
 in favor of that Customer who cheerfully pays the fair price of the arti- 
 cle he purchases ; have those who are unwilling to do so any reason to 
 complain ? Have they not invited such conduct. 
 
 DIRECTIONS FOR* CURING AND COOKING PICKLED FISH.* 
 
 The use of Pickled Fish, such as Mackerel, Salmon, Shad, &c. 
 is becoming more general than formerly, and would be still more 
 extensive if the proper mode of preparing them for the table was 
 better understood. These fish constitute not only a salutary diet, 
 but in many cases makes a very beneficial change in our food. 
 
 Whoever will give the following directions a fair trial will be- 
 come sensible of their value: — 
 
 First. The fish should be kept covered by the pickle by means 
 of a flat stone or slate, laid on them. The oil, or animal fat, 
 which floats on the top of the cask, should not be removed, as it 
 prevents the fish from rusting; but in taking the fish from the 
 barrel or keg, this oil ought to be put aside, care being taken not 
 to let the fish touch it. Secondly — The fish should be washed 
 clean, then put to soak in a large quantity of water for eight or 
 ten hours, with the flesh side down. The time of soaking may be 
 varied to suit the palate. It must again be washed clean, put it 
 to soak six or eight hours in milk, (if you have it) then dry it by 
 the fire. Thirdly — When dry lay it on the gridiron, with the flesh 
 side downward, over pretty lively coals, for five minutes, or till it 
 is moderately browned, then turn it with a plate, or some flat in- 
 strument that will not break the skin, and let it remain over the 
 coals ten or fifteen minutes, or till it is cooked sufficiently. Slide 
 it off* the gridiron into the dish, and strip off" the backbone with a 
 broad knife: pat the fish, to cause the thick part of the fish to 
 absorb the fat from the belly part; use no butter — then you will 
 enjoy all the flavor and juices of the fish. 
 
 If a Mackerel or Shad so prepared does not relish, it must be 
 more the fault of the palate, than of the food. How many arti- 
 cles, capable of being made into excellent dishes, are lost or 
 spoiled from want of care and skill in dressing them. 
 
 ♦As the whole beauty of pickled Fish depends upon the right method of cooking it, we 
 insert by itself the receipt of Capt. Henry Purkitt, Massachusetts Inspector of Fish, who 
 obligingly handed it to tlie Editor. 
 
TABLE 
 
 OP 
 
 WEIGHTS AND MEASURES. 
 
 By which persons not having scales and weights at hand may 
 readily measure the articles wanted to form any receipt, without 
 the trouble of weighing. Allowance to be made for any ex- 
 traordinary dryness or moisture of the article weighed or meas- 
 ured. 
 
 WEIGHT AND MEASURE. 
 
 Eggs - - - 
 
 ten eggs are 
 
 one pound. 
 
 Brown sugar 
 
 one pound, two ounces, is 
 
 one quart. 
 
 White sugar, powdered 
 
 one pound, one ounce, is 
 
 one quart. 
 
 Loaf-sugar, broken 
 
 one pound is - - 
 
 one quart. 
 
 Butter — when soft - 
 
 one pound is - 
 
 one quart. 
 
 Indian meal 
 
 one pound, two ounces, is 
 
 one quart. 
 
 Wheat flour 
 
 one pound is - - 
 LIQUIDS. 
 
 one quart. 
 
 Four large table-spoonfuls are - - - 
 
 half a gill. 
 
 Eight large table-spoonfuls are - . - 
 
 one gill. 
 
 Sixteen large table-spoonfuls are - - - 
 
 half a pint. 
 
 A common-sized wine-glass - - - - 
 
 half a gill. 
 
 A common-sized tumbler holds - - •^ 
 
 half a pint 
 
THB 
 
 COOK'S OWN BOOK. 
 
 ALM 
 
 ABERDEEN CRULLA. (See Cakes.) 
 ALAMODE BEEF. (See Beef.) 
 ALAMODE VEAL. (See Veal.) 
 
 ALMOND CHEESECAKES. (1) 
 
 Talce half a pound of Jordan almonds, lay 
 them in cold water all night ; the next morn- 
 ing blanch them in cold water ; then talte them 
 out and dry them in a clean cloth, beat them 
 very fine in a little orange flower water ; then 
 take six eggs, leave out four whites, with a 
 little beaten mace ; beat them well in a mar- 
 ble mortar ; take ten ounces of fresh butter, 
 melt it, add a little grated lemon-peel, and 
 put tliem in tlie mortar with the other ingre- 
 dients; mix all well together and fill your 
 palty-pans, having lined them with thin puff 
 
 ALMOND CHEESECAKES. (2) 
 
 Blanch and pound four ounces of almonds, 
 and a few bitter with a spoonful of water ; 
 then add four ounces of sugar pounded, a 
 spoonful of cream, and the whites of two eggs 
 well beaten ; mix all as quick as possible ; 
 put into very small patty-pans, and bake in 
 a pretty warm oven twenty minutes. 
 
 ALMOND CHEESECAKES. (3) 
 Blanch six ounces of sweet, and half an ounce 
 of bitter almonds ; let them lie half an hour 
 in a drying stove, or before the fire ; pound 
 them very fine in a mortar, witli two table- 
 spoonfuls of rose water, to prevent them from 
 oiling ; set into a stew-pan half a pound of 
 fresh butter; set it in a warm place, and 
 cream it very smooth with the h^nd, and add 
 it to the almonds, with six ounces of sifted 
 loaf sugar, a little grated lemon-peel, some 
 good cream, and four eggs ; rub all well to- 
 gether with the pestle; cover a patty-pan 
 with puff paste; fill in the mixture; orna- 
 ment it with slices of candied lemon-peel and 
 almonds split, and bake it half an hour in a 
 brisk oven. 
 
 ALMOND CONSERVE, BURNT. 
 
 Blanch and cut six ounces of sweet almonds 
 into small strips, lay them on paper and put 
 them into an oven; when they are brown. 
 
 ALM 
 
 take them out, and throw them into two 
 pounds of sugar boiled to petit casse, stir 
 the mixture well until it begins to blow, and 
 then pour it into paper cases or moulds. 
 
 ALMONDS, ENGLISH FASHION. 
 
 Mix almonds and filberts sca'ded in equal 
 quantities ; chop one half very fine, cut the 
 rest each into two or tliree slices; put the 
 whole in double theii* weight of sugar, 
 prepared by boiling it with some lemon- 
 peel rasped; stir the almonds veiy well 
 in the sugar, taking it off the fii-e, and 
 add one or two whites of eggs ; pour it in 
 paper large enough to contain the whole, and 
 cut it in slices for use as you think proper, 
 when baked as usual. 
 
 ALMOND FRAZE. Blanch a pound 
 of Jordan almonds, and steep them in a pint 
 of cream, ten yolks, and four whites of eggs ; 
 take out the almonds and pound them fine in 
 a marble mortar; then mix them again in 
 the cream and eggs, put in sugar and grated 
 bread, and stir tliem all togetljer; then put 
 some fiesh butter into the pan, let it be hot 
 and pour it in, stirring it in the pan till they 
 are of a sufficient consistence ; and when 
 enough, turn it into a dish, strew sugar over 
 it, and serve it up. 
 
 ALMOND FRITTERS. Blanch three 
 quarters of a pound of sweet almonds, pour 
 over them three table-spoonfuls of rose water, 
 and in a quarter of an hour a pint of cream; 
 let them stand two or thi-ee hours, then pound 
 them in a mortar till they become (juite a 
 paste ; add the beaten yolks of six eggs, two 
 or three pounded Naples biscuit; sweeten 
 with pounded loaf sugar, and mix all well 
 togetlier ; melt a quarter of a pound of fresh 
 butter in a fiying-pan, and when hot, pour m 
 the mixture, and stir it constantly till thick, 
 and of a light brown co'.or. Serve it with 
 sifted loaf sugar over the top. 
 
 ALMOND BROWN GINGER- 
 BREAD. Beat a quiurter of a pound of 
 blanched almonds with tliin gum-water, a 
 few drops of lemon-juice, a little powdered 
 cinnamon, c d some ginger finely grated and 
 
ALM 
 
 ANC 
 
 seered to give it a brown color; sweeten 
 and smooth it well, roll it out thin, and cut 
 it into squares; dry it in a stove or before 
 the fire. 
 
 ALMOND ICEING, for Bride Cake. 
 The whites of six eggs, a pound and a half 
 of double-refined sugar, a pound of Jordan 
 ahnonds blanched and pounded with a little 
 rose water ; mix altogether and whisk it well 
 for an hour or two, lay it over the cake and 
 put it in the oven. 
 
 ALMOND MACAROONS, BITTER. 
 
 Take a pound of bitter almonds, rub them 
 well in a clean cloth, and beat them to a paste 
 witli the whites of three or four eggs ; then 
 put tliem into an earthen pan with three 
 pounds of powder-sugar, mix them together 
 well, and if the paste should be too dry, 
 raotsten it with white of egg. Drop it on 
 sheets of paper in lumps about the size of a 
 walnut, and bake them in a close, gentle oven. 
 
 ALMOND MACAROONS, SWEET, 
 
 Are done in the same way. But two pounds 
 of sugar are sufficient for a pound of almonds. 
 
 ALMOND MILK SOUP. Take half a 
 pound of sweet almonds, put them on the fire 
 with some water until near boiling, then 
 blanch and throw them into fl'esh water; 
 drain and pound them. Boil a pint of wa- 
 ter, a litde sugar, salt, cinnamon, coriander, 
 and lemon-peel, for a quarter of an hour, and 
 rub the almonds through a sieve to this. Lay 
 some slices of toasted bread in a dish, and 
 pom* the milk of almonds on it, as hot as 
 possible without boiling. 
 
 ALMOND PUFFS. Blanch two ounces 
 of sweet almonds, and beat them fine with 
 orange flower water, whisk the whites of 
 three eggs to a high frotii, strew in a little 
 sifted sugar, mix the almonds with the sugar 
 and eggs, and add more sugar till as thick 
 as paste. Lay it in cakes, and bake it on 
 pa|}er in a cool oven. 
 
 ALMOND RICE. Blanch sweet al- 
 monds, and poimd them in a marble mortar ; 
 mix them in a little boiling water; press 
 them as long as there is milk in the almonds, 
 adding fresh water every time; to everj^ 
 quart of ahiiond-juice, put a quarter of a 
 pound of rice and two teaspoonsful of orange 
 flower water; mix them all together, and 
 simmer it over a slow charcoal fire; stir it 
 repeatedly, and when done, sweeten it at 
 pleasm-e; serve it with beaten cinnamon 
 strewed over. 
 
 ALMOND ROLLS, BFrTER. Blanch 
 And pound eight ounces of almonds five of 
 
 sweet and three of bitter) to a very fine 
 paste ; then place eight ounces of flour on 
 your slab ; make a hole in the middle, and 
 put into it eight ounces of powder-sugar, the 
 yolks of four eggs, and a grain of salt ; mix 
 them all well together into a firm smootn 
 paste ; roll it out and cut it into four equal 
 pai-ts ; roll each piece to the same length ; 
 cut tliem into pieces about the size of a wal- 
 nut, and form them to the shape of a wild 
 turnip, and as you do them put them on a 
 baking-tin lightly buttered ; dorez them and 
 bake them of a proper color in a moderate 
 oven. When they are taken from tlie oven, 
 let them stand a little while to dry. 
 
 ALMOND 
 
 ding.) 
 
 PUDDING. (See Pud- 
 
 ALMOND TUMBLES. Blanch and 
 pound three ounces of almonds very fine, 
 when almost beaten enough, take the white 
 of an egg beaten to frotli, one pound of dou- 
 ble-refined sugar well beaten, and put it in 
 by degrees, working it into a paste with your 
 hands, roll it out and bake it on buttered 
 plates in a hot oven. 
 
 AMERICAN BLANCMANGE. (See 
 Blancmange.) 
 
 AMERICAN GINGERBREAD. Take 
 half a pound of fresh butter melted, one pound 
 and a half of dried and sifted floiu-, the sam« 
 quantity of brown sugar, a quarter of a pound 
 of pounded ginger, nine eggs, the yolks and 
 whites sepai'ately beaten, one glass of rose 
 water, and one of white wine; mix all these 
 well together, and l;eat it for an hour; then 
 with a spoon spread it over flat tin pans, 
 about the thickness of a penny-piece ; bake 
 it of a light brown, and while warai, cut it 
 into oblong pieces, and place them on end 
 till cool, when diey will be very crisp. 
 
 AMERICAN VINEGAR. (See Vin- 
 egar.) 
 
 AMERICAN SNOW BALLS. Boil 
 some rice in milk till it be swelled and sofl ; 
 pare and carefully scoop out the core of five 
 or six good-sized apples, put into each a lit- 
 tle grated lemon -peel and cinnamon ; place 
 as much of the rice upon a bit of linen as 
 will entirely cover an apple, and tie each close- 
 ly. Boil them two hours, and sene them 
 with melted butter, sweetened witli sugar. 
 
 ANCHOVIES, Wash half a dozen an- 
 chovies, and take the meat from the bones ; 
 cut them into four fillets, place them on a 
 dish with some sweet herbs, cut small ; and 
 the yoBks and whites of hard eggs, also cut 
 small. 
 
ANC 
 
 3 
 
 APP 
 
 ANCHOVY BUTTER. Wash youi- 
 anchovies carefully, take out the bones, and 
 dry them; then pound them in a moitai* 
 until they are reduced to a paste ; and mix 
 this paste with double the quantity of fresh 
 butter. 
 
 ANCHOVIES, BUITER OF. Wash 
 from the pickle some fine young anchovies, 
 bone, and take off the heads, then pound tliem 
 in a mortar with fresh butter till quite smootli, 
 and rub it through a sieve. 
 
 ANCHOVY PASTE. Pound them in a 
 mortar, then rub it through a fine sieve ; pot 
 it, cover it with clarified butter, and keep it 
 in a cool place. If you have essence of ancho- 
 vy, you may make anchovy paste extempore, 
 by rubbing the essence with as much flour as 
 will make a paste. 3Iem. — This is merely 
 mentioned as the means of making it imme- 
 diately ; it will not keep. 
 
 ANCHOVY POWDER. Pound the fish 
 in a mortar, rub them through a sieve, and 
 make them into a paste witli dried flom-, roll 
 it into thin cakes, and dry tliem in a Dutch 
 oven before a slow fiie ; pounded to a fine 
 powder, and put into a well-stopped bottle, it 
 will keep for years; it is a very savoury 
 relish, sprinkled on bread and butter for a 
 sandwich, &c. See Oyster Powder. 
 
 ANCHOVY TOAST. (1) Cut seme 
 tliin slices of bread about the length and 
 breadth of a finger; fry them in oil. Place 
 tliem on a dish, and pour on them a sauce 
 made of oil, vinegar, whole pepper, parsley, 
 sjallion, and shallots, cut up together. Then 
 cut the anchovies into thin slices, and lay 
 them on the toast. 
 
 ANCHOVY TOAST. (2) Bone and 
 wash the anchovies, pound them in a mortar 
 with a little fresh butter ; rub them through a 
 sieve and spread them on a toast. You may 
 add, while pounding tlie anchovies, a little 
 made nnistard and curry powder, or a few 
 grains of Cayenne, or a little mace or other 
 spice. It may be made still more savoury, by 
 frying the toast in clarified butter. — N. B. 
 Keep your anchovies well covered ; fiist tie 
 down your jar with bladder moistened widi 
 vinegar, and then wiped dry; tie leadier 
 over that: when you open a jar, moisten the 
 bladder, and it will come off easily; as soon 
 as you have taken out the fish, replace the 
 coverings; the air soon nasts and spoils 
 anchovies. 
 
 ANCHOVY TOAST. (3) Bone and 
 roll up two or thiee anchoivies, place tliem 
 upon pieces of dry toast, and garnish with 
 cm-led parsley. 
 
 ANGELICA TO CANDY. Cut the 
 
 stalks when thick and tender, put them on 
 in boiling water, and when very tender, di-ain 
 it off, and tlirow them into cold water ; peel 
 off tlie skin, and scald them in a tliin sirup, 
 made with the same proportion of sugar that 
 there is of fruit ; heat it twice a day till the 
 sirup is almost diied in, and then dry them 
 under garden glasses, or in a stove, and turn 
 them twice a day. 
 
 APPLES. Cooks, in choosing apples for 
 culinary purposes, should always be guided 
 by the weight, die heaviest being always the 
 best ; and tliose are particularly to be taken, 
 which, upon being pressed by the thumb, 
 yield witli a slight cracking noise. Large 
 apples possessing these qualities should be 
 taken in preference to small ones, as there 
 is less waste in peeling and coring. 
 
 APPLE BLACK-CAP. (1) Divide 
 
 twelve large apples in halves, core diem, and 
 place them on a thin patty-pan or mazarine, 
 quite close to each other, with the flat side 
 downwards; squeeze a lemon into two 
 spoonfiils of orange flower water, which pour 
 over them ; shred fine some lemon-peel, Uirow 
 it over them, and grate fine sugar all over. 
 Set them in a quick oven, and bake them 
 half an hour. When served, strew fine su- 
 gar all over the dish. 
 
 APPLE BLACK-CAP. (2) Pare 
 
 the apples, lay them in your pan, strew a few 
 cloves over them, a little lemon-peel cut very 
 small, two or three blades of cinnamon, and 
 some coarse sugar ; cover the pan with brown 
 paper, set it in an oven with' the bread, and 
 let it stand tih the oven is cold. 
 
 APPLES, TO BAKE WHOLE. Put 
 
 some sound and well chosen apples into a 
 pan, with a small proportion of cloves, a 
 little lemon-peel, some brown sugar, a glass 
 Oi- more of red wine, according to the quan- 
 tity of fruit; put them into a quick oven, and 
 bake them at least one hour. The sugar to 
 be limited according to tlie quality of the 
 apples. 
 
 APPLES, CHARLOTTE OF. (Set 
 Charlotte.) 
 
 APPLE CHEESECAKES. Pare, core, 
 and boil twelve apples with sufficient water 
 to mash them ; beat them veiy smooth, add 
 six yolks of eggs, the juice of two lemons, 
 and some grafed lemon-peel, half a pound of 
 fresh butter beaten to a cream, and sweet- 
 ened with powder sugar, beat it in with the 
 apples. Bake in a puff" cixist and serve open. 
 
 APPLES CLEAR. Boil half a pound 
 
APP 
 
 APF 
 
 of loaf sugar in a pint of water ; take off the 
 scum, and put in some large apples, pared, 
 cored, and cut into quarters, with the peel 
 and juice of a lemon ; let tlteni boil till clear, 
 without a cover upon tlie sauce-pan. 
 
 APPLES COMPOTE. (1) Cut some 
 apples in half, core them, prick tlie skins with 
 a knife and tlirow them into cold watei- ; 
 ' then put them into a pan with some clarified 
 sugar, and stew them gently till tender ; place 
 the apples in a dish, and pour the sirup 
 tlirough a sieve over them. 
 
 APPLES COMPOTE. (2) Pare and 
 cut half a dozen fine apples in half, and put 
 them into a pan with a little water and lemon- 
 juice ; tlien clarify half a pound of sugai-, and 
 when you have skimmed it put in your apples, 
 and the juice of a lemon ; turn tlie apples 
 frequently. As soon as you find the fork will 
 penetrate them, they are sufficiently done, and 
 may be taken out ; strain and reduce the 
 syrujT; strain it again, and tlien pour it over 
 your apples, which may be served eitlier hot 
 or cold. Garnish with the peel of a veiy red 
 apple, cut into various devices, and laid on 
 the apples. 
 
 APPLES, WHOLE. The proceeding is 
 the same as the last, es;cept that the apples, 
 when pared, are not divided, and tlie cores 
 are taken out with a piercer. 
 
 APPLE DUMPLINGS. Pare and 
 scoop out the core of six large baking apples, 
 put pait of a clove, and a little grated lem- 
 on-peel, inside of each, and enclose them in 
 pieces of puff paste ; boil tliein in nets for 
 the purpose, or bits of linen, for an hour. 
 Before serving, cut off a small bit from the 
 top of each, and put in a tea-spoonful of su- 
 gar, and a bit of fresh butter ; replace the bit 
 of paste, and strew over them pounded loaf 
 sugar. 
 
 APPLE DUMPLINGS, BAKED. 
 
 Make them in tlie same way, but instead of 
 tieing tliem in cloths lay tliem in a buttered 
 dish and bake them. 
 
 APPLES, DRIED OR BAKED. Al- 
 ways choose the clearest of baking apples, 
 prick them rather deep with a pointed knife 
 in several places, and put them in a mode- 
 rate oven upon a baking plate ; when half 
 done squeeze them pretty flat witli the hands, 
 strew them on botli sides with powder sugar, 
 and put them again into a soaking oven, 
 with some more sugar over them. Keep 
 them in a dry place. 
 
 APPLES FESTOONED. Peel some 
 golden pippins, core tliem whole, and stew 
 
 them to three parts with sugar and a little 
 water; make the sirup pretty rich to clog 
 to the apples ; wrap tliein round with a tliin 
 paste, cut with a paste-cutter, and make knots 
 or flo«'eis with the same paste to put on the 
 top of the apples ; rasp some sugar over, and 
 bake a vei-y short time. 
 
 APPLE FLOATING ISLAND. 
 
 Bake or scald eight or nine large apples j 
 when cold pare and pulp them through a sieve, 
 beat this up with fine sugar ; put to it the 
 whites of four or five eggs dial have been 
 beaten with a little rose water ; mix it a lit- 
 tle at a time, and beat it till it is light; heap 
 it on a rich custard or on jelly. 
 
 APPLE FOOL. Pare, core, and cut 
 into diin bits, some good stewing apples; 
 stew diem till tender, with a little water, 
 two cloves, a bit of cinnamon, and the peel 
 of half a lemon ; pulp half a pound through a 
 sieve, and add the same weight of brown sugar, 
 tlie juice of a lemon, and the whites of two 
 eggs; beat them all togedier for an hour. 
 Sene it upon rich cream, or a boiled custard, 
 in a glass dish. It may be made in the same 
 way as the gooseberiy fool, as may also stew- 
 ed rhubai'b. 
 
 APPLE FRAZE. Cut apples into thick 
 slices, and fi-y them of a clear light brown ; 
 take them from the pan, and lay them "to 
 drain ; they may be pared or not ; then make 
 a batter. Take five eggs, leaving out two 
 whites, beat them up with cream or flour, 
 and a little white wine, make it of the con- 
 sistence of pancake batter ; pour in a little 
 melted butter, mixed wiUi nutmeg and sugar. 
 Let the batter be hot, and drop in the fi-itters, 
 laying on eveiy one a slice of apple, and then 
 a spoonful of batter on each. Fiy them of 
 a pale brown, when taken up, strew double- 
 refined sugar all over tiiem. 
 
 APPLE FRITTERS. (1) Beat the 
 yolks of eight eggs, the whites of four, well 
 together, sti^ain them into a pan ; then take 
 a quart of cream, make it moderately hot, 
 and add two glasses of sack, three-quarters 
 of a pint of ale, and mix them well together 
 When it is cool^put to it the eggs, Ijeating 
 it well together, then add nutmeg and ginger 
 gi-ated, salt and flour at pleasiue. The bat- 
 ter should be pretty thick ; then put in sliced 
 apples, or scraped pippins, and fry diem quick 
 in butter. 
 
 APPLE FRITTERS. (2) Pare, 
 
 core, and cut your apples into cjuarters, soak 
 them for two or three hours in brandy, sugar, 
 green lemon-peel, and orange flower water; 
 when they have thoroughly imbibed the fla- 
 vor of these ingredients, drain, and put them 
 
APP 
 
 5 
 
 APP 
 
 into a cloth well sprinkled with flour, and 
 shake them so that tlie flour may adhere all 
 over them ; fry them of a good color, glaze 
 with sugar and a hot salamander. 
 
 APPLE FRITTERS. (3) Stew 
 some apjjles cut small, together with a little 
 water, t>ugar, lemon-peel, and cinnamon; 
 when soft, add a little white wine, die juice of 
 half a lemon, and a bit of fresh butter ; when 
 cold, mix diem wiUi a batter, as for Tun- 
 bridge puffs, or enclose them in rounds of puff 
 paste. Fry, and serve them with sifted loaf 
 sugar over diem. 
 
 APPLE FRITTERS. (4) Four well- 
 beaten eggs, half a pint of cream, two Uible 
 spoonfuls of yeiist, three of white wine, and 
 two of rose water ; half a tea spoonful uf gra- 
 ted nutmeg, and of salt ; make it into a tliick 
 batter with flour, peel and core two or three 
 apples, cut them into diin bits, and mix tliem 
 widi the batter ; cover it over, let it stand, 
 placed near the fire, about an hour ; diop it 
 into boiling lard, and serve them in a napkin 
 with sugar strewed over them. Gooseberries 
 previously stewed may be done in the same 
 way. 
 
 APPLES, GLAZED. Peel a doz-en of 
 apples and leave the tails; gore at the oppo- 
 site side not quite Uirough, and boil diem 
 widi half a pint of red wine, some sugar, 
 and a spoonful of brandy, simmer slowly that 
 they may not break ; when ncaily done, take 
 Uiem out, leduce the sirup to a caramel, and 
 put in the apples, rubbing them all over with 
 It ; or you may wrap them in a paste, rasp 
 sugar over, bake a short time, and glaze witli 
 a white glaze. 
 
 APPLE MARMALADE. (1) Boil 
 some pippins till they begin to get tender, dien 
 put diem into cold water; pare and core 
 them ; squeeze the pulp through a sieve and 
 put it over the fire, letting it lemaui till it Ije- 
 comes very diick ; then weigh an equal quan- 
 tity of fine sugar ; boil it till die sugar arises in 
 sparkles which cluster together ; put the mar- 
 malade to it, and stir Uiem well with a wood- 
 en spoon till die apple begins to boil ; then 
 take it off" and when a little cool, put it into 
 pots, but do not cover them till quite cold. 
 
 APPLE MARMALADE. (2) Pare, 
 core, and cut your apples into small pieces, 
 put them into water w ith a little lemon-juice 
 to keep thcin white. Take them out after a 
 short time and drain them. Weigh, and put 
 them into a stew-pan ; if for present use, half 
 a pound of sugar will be sufficient for each 
 pound of apples, but if for keeping, double 
 diat quantity will be necessary. Add to it a 
 stick of cinnamon and the juice of a lemon. 
 1* 
 
 Put tlie stew-pan over a brisk fire and cover 
 it ; when die apples are pulped stir die mix- 
 tm-e till of the proper consistence: then put 
 die marmalade into jx)ts. 
 
 APPLES IN PANCAKES. Cut some 
 apples vei-y small, stew them with a little 
 white wine, grated lemon-peel, pounded cin- 
 namon, and bi-own sugar; mash them, and 
 spread it o\ev pancakes ; roll diem up, and 
 sene widi sifted loaf sugar over them. 
 
 APPLE POUPETON. Pare some 
 good baking apples, take out the cores, and 
 put them into a skillet; to a pound and a 
 , half of ap'ples, put a quarter of a pound of su- 
 gar, and a wine glass of water. Do diem 
 over a slow fire, add a little cinnamon, and 
 keep them stining. When of Uie consist- 
 ence of a marmalade, let it stand till cool ; 
 beat up the yolks of four eggs, and stir in four 
 table spoonfuls of grated biead, and a quarter 
 of a poiDid of fresh butter ; then form it into 
 shape, bake it in a slow oven, turn it upside 
 down on a plate, and serve. 
 
 APPLE PRESER\nE. (See Pre- 
 serves.) 
 
 APPLES AND RAISINS. Pareandcut 
 twelve apples into quarters, and each quarter 
 into four pieces, put diem into a pan with four 
 ounces of good fresh butter, two of sugai-, over 
 which the zeste of an oiange has been grated, 
 and a quarter of a |X)und of currants well 
 washed ; toss up these ingsedients over a mod- 
 erate fire for a few minutes and dien let them 
 cool. Make a round under-crust seven inch- 
 es in diameter, moisten the edge and put on 
 it a Ijand of puff paste three-cjuarters of an 
 inch high and half an inch tiiick ; put your 
 a|)ples, &c. in this so a^ to form a sort of 
 dome, cover diem with the pu(f paste,. taking 
 care that it does not extend beyond the band, 
 upon which it must be piessed down ; wash 
 it over widi while of eg^, and bake it 
 in a gentle oven f^r about an hour. When 
 a little cooled, ttike the whites of two eggs, 
 whipped to a strong tioth and mixed with 
 two ounces of powder sugar, and mask with 
 it your cake, si)rinkling it widi sifted su- 
 gar; then, having drained and dried some 
 currants, mix diem widi sugar, and strew 
 diem over die dome ; form a crown of small 
 meringues with die remainder of the white 
 of egg, and place it on the band ; cover them 
 with sifted sugar, and color die whole of a 
 clear yellow in die oven, and then serve im- 
 mediately. 
 
 APPLES IN RICE. (1) Scoop om 
 the cores, and pare, very neatly, half a doz- 
 en good-sized apples ; boil them in diin, clari- 
 fied sugar ; let them imbibe die sugar, and 
 
APR 
 
 6 
 
 APR 
 
 be careful to preserve tlieir form. Make a 
 marmalade with some other apples, adding 
 to it apricot mannalade, and four ounces of 
 rice previously boiled in milk, with sugar and 
 butter, and the yolks of two or three eggs ; 
 put them into a dish for table, surround it 
 with a border of rice, and place the whole ap- 
 ples in tiie rice, and marmalade and bake it. 
 When done, put into each of the apples a tea 
 spoonful of any kind of sweetmeat you may 
 think proper. 
 
 APPLES IN RICE. (2) Pare, core, 
 and cut foiu* or five good apples in quarters ; 
 boil some rice in a cloth, and when soft put 
 in the apples, tie it up very loose, and boil 
 gently till sufficiently done. 
 
 APPLE SOUFFLET. Prepare apples 
 as for baking in a pudding, put them into a 
 deep dish, and lay upon the top, alx)ut an 
 inch and a half thick, rice boiled in new 
 milk with sugar; beat to a stiff" froth the 
 whites of two or three eggs, with a little sift- 
 ed loaf sugar, lay it upon die rice, and bake 
 it in an oven a light brown. Serve it instant- 
 ly when done. 
 
 APPLE A LA TURQUE. Neatly pare 
 and pierce out the cores of eight or ten ap- 
 ples, j)ut them on the fire with a thin sirup 
 of clai-ified sugar, cover them close and let 
 them simmer gently; turn them, that both 
 sides may be done. When thoroughly done 
 lay them on a dish, with a wet paper over 
 them. Put a paste round the dish you serve 
 them in, and bake in a gentle oven to hai-den 
 it, then put in a layer of apple sauce, over 
 which put the apples, and fill the holes where 
 the cores were with dried cherries or ap- 
 ricot jam, then cover it with the apple sauce ; 
 beat up the whites of six eggs to a froth, 
 and add powder sugar till they appear quite 
 smooth ; make the apples warm, and lay the 
 white of egg over them, smooth it neatly over, 
 and sift some powder sugar over it ; color it 
 in a gentle oven. 
 
 APPLE WATER. Cut three or four 
 large apples into slices, put them into a jug, 
 and pour a qiiait of boiling water over them ; 
 cover the jug. When quite cold, strain and 
 sweeten it, and add a little lemon-juice. 
 
 APRICOTS IN BRANDY. Weigh 
 equal quantities of loaf sugar and of apricots ; 
 scald them, and take off the skins. Clarify 
 and boil the sugar, put die fruit into it, a'ld 
 let it remain for two or three days ; put the 
 apricots into glasses. Mix witli the sirup 
 the best pale brandy, half and iialf, and pour 
 it over the apricots and kee[) them closely 
 covered. Peaches and nectai'ines may be 
 iione in the same way. 
 
 APRICOTS, CHARLOTTE OF. 
 
 Choose twenty-four fine, plump, but not too 
 ripe, apricots, pare and divide them into 
 eight parts, toss them up in a quarter of a 
 pound of fine sugar, and two ounces of warm 
 butter ; in the meantime line a mould as di- 
 rected (see Charlotte) ; })our in the apri- 
 cots, and finish as usual. When turned on 
 your dish, cover it lightly with apricot mar- 
 malade, and serve it immediately. 
 
 APRICOTS TO DRY. Pare tlie apri- 
 cots, and carefully take out the stones ; blanch 
 tlie kernels, and put them into the apricots ; 
 strew over a pound of fruit the same quantity 
 of finely-pounded loaf sugar, and let them 
 stand till the sugar has extracted the juice, 
 then boil all togeUier gently ; when the frxiit 
 is tender, take it out with cave, and boil the 
 sirup till very rich ; pour it over the fruit, 
 and in tlii'ee days put it upon dishes, and dry 
 tliem in the sun under garden glasses, turning 
 them once or twice a-day, to keep the shape 
 as round as possible. Any infeiior apricots 
 may be cut down and boiled in the sirup, for 
 
 APRICOT MARMALADE. Take 
 
 some fine apricots, and choose from amongst 
 them those which ai'e of the deepest yellow 
 and the ripest, (they must not be too ripe.) 
 Peel them, tal<e out the stones, and chop them 
 up ; weigh twelve pounds of them and put 
 them into a preserving-pan, with nine pounds 
 of powder sugar ; place your pan over a quick 
 fire, and keep your preparation constantly 
 stirring with a long wooden spoon. To find 
 out when die marmalade is sufficiently done, 
 let a few drops fall into a glass of cold water, 
 and if they do not spiead in tiie water your 
 marmalade is ready to put into pots. An- 
 other method of ascertaining when your mar- 
 malade is done is by taking some on the end of 
 your finger and thumb, and just rub them to- 
 gether, and if on separating them you find the 
 marmalade forms a thread, it is sufficiently 
 done. 
 
 APRICOTS A LA PORTUGAISE. 
 
 Take a dozen of ripe apricots, cut them in 
 half, and take out the stones ; place them on 
 a silver plate, and pour over some clarified 
 sugar, with a little water; put them on a 
 stove without covering them ; when suffi- 
 ciently done, take fliem fi-oin the fire, and 
 strew sugar over; then put on tlie lid of the 
 baliing-pan under die fire, to make diem of a 
 good color. 
 
 APRICOTS, WHOLE. Choose the fin- 
 est yellow, but not too ripe, ajn-icots; take 
 off the stalks, prick them on each side with 
 a pin, make an incision with the point of 
 a knife, dirough wliich extiact die stone 
 
ART 
 
 ASP 
 
 Then put them on the fire with as much wa- 
 ter as will cover them, until near boiling, 
 when, if soft, the apricots should be tlirown 
 into cold water ; take care they are all equal- 
 ly tender. Drain them on a hurdle, and in 
 the meantime clarify and boil some sugar 
 to the degree you require; put in a little 
 water, and when it boils remove it from the 
 fire, and add to it the fruit, and having given 
 them a few boilings together, let them cool, 
 then drain and place them in your compoiiers. 
 
 ARTICHOKES AND ALMOiNDS. 
 
 Take half a pound of sweet almonds blanch- 
 ed and beat fine, with two tea spoonfuls 
 of orange-flower or rose water ; tiien tcd<^e 
 a quart of cream, and boil it with a small 
 quantity of cinnamon and mace ; sweeten it 
 with fine sugar, and mix it with die almonds ; 
 stir them together, and strain it through a 
 sieve. Let the cream cool, and tliicken it 
 with the yolks of six eggs; then garnish a 
 deep disli, and lay paste at the bottom ; then 
 put in shred artichoke bottoms, being first 
 boiled ; and upon these a little melted butter, 
 shred citron, and candied orange; repeating 
 the same until the dish is nearly full, then 
 pour in tlie cream, and bake it without a lid. 
 When it is baked, grate sugar over it, and 
 serve it hot. Half an hour will serve to 
 bake it. 
 
 ARTICHOKES BOILED. Soak them 
 in cold water, wash them well, then put them 
 into plenty of boiling water, with a handfiil 
 of salt, and let them boil gently till they are 
 tender, which will take an hour and a half, 
 or two hours : the surest way to know when 
 they are done enough, is to diaw out a leaf; 
 trim them and drain them on a sieve ; and 
 send up melted butter with them, which some 
 put into small cups, so tliat each guest may 
 have one. 
 
 ARTICHOKES TO BOIL. Cut off the 
 stalks close to the bottom, wash them well, 
 and let diem lie for some hours in cold wa- 
 ter; put them on in boiling water with a 
 little Gait in it, cover the pan closely, and 
 boil tliem an hour and a half. If they are 
 old, and have not been fiesh gadiered, they 
 will take a longer time to boil. Melted but- 
 {ev is served with them in a sauce-tui'een. 
 
 ARTICHOKE BOTTOMS, to Dry 
 AND Pickle. Half boil the artichokes, 
 strip off the leaves, and pull out the choke ; 
 put the bottoms into small jars, and cover 
 tliem with a cold boiled brine of salt and 
 water ; put melted mutton suet on the top to 
 exclude the air, and tie bladder over them. 
 To dry them, they are boiled as for eating, 
 the leaves and choke pulled out, and the bot- 
 toms di'ied upon dishes in an oven, and then 
 
 kept in paper bags. When lo be dressed, 
 they must be laid into warm water, and soak- 
 ed for two or tlwee hours ; they may then be 
 plain boiled, and eaten with melted butter, 
 or stewed in gravy with a little mushroom 
 catsup, pepper, and salt, and thickened with 
 a bit of butter rolled in flour. They are a 
 great improvement to all made dishes and 
 meat pies. 
 
 ARTICHOKE BOTTOMS, PICKLED. 
 
 Boil the artichokes till the leaves can be pull- 
 ed off without breaking the bottoms ; leave 
 on the part called the choke, set them aside 
 till cold, then put them into wide-mouthed 
 bottles. Boil, in vinegar, some salt, pepper, 
 mace, and sliced nutmeg, and, when cold, 
 pour it over the artichokes ; tie bladder over 
 the bottles. 
 
 ARTICHOKES, JERUSALEM. (1) 
 
 Are boiled and dressed in tlie various ways di- 
 rected for potatoes. N. B — They should be 
 covered with thick melted butter, or a nice 
 white or brown sauce. 
 
 ARTICHOKES, JERUSALEM. (2) 
 
 They must be neatly peeled, and boiled very 
 gently by the side of the stove, with a little 
 salt m the water ; when done (but not too 
 much, or they will not look well) place them 
 on tlie dish, and serve witli plain butter, or 
 any other sauce you please. 
 
 ARTICHOKES, JERUSALEM, to 
 Fricassee. Wash and scrape or pare 
 them ; boil them in milk and water till they 
 are soft, which will be from a quarter to half 
 an hour. Take them out and stew them a , 
 few minutes in the f(;l!owing sauce: — Roll a 
 bit of butter, the size of a walnut, in flour, 
 mix it with half a pint of cream or milk ; 
 season it with pepper, salt, and grated nut- 
 meg. They may l^ served plain boiled, 
 with a little melted butter poured over 
 them. Scorzonei-a is fricasseed in the same 
 
 ARROW-ROOT. Mix with two or 
 three table-spoonfuls of arrow-root half a 
 pint of cold water ; let it stand for nearly a 
 quarter of an hour, pour off the water, and 
 stir in some pounded sugai*; boil a pint of 
 milk, and pour it gradually upon the arrow- 
 root, stirring it one way all the time. Or 
 it may be made with water in which lemon- 
 peel has been Iwiled, and then a glass of Port 
 or white wine and a little nutmeg stirred 
 into it. 
 
 ASPARAGUS. Set a stew-pan with 
 plenty of water in it on the fire ; sprinkle a 
 handful of salt in it ; let it boil, and skim it; 
 then put in your asparagus, prepared thus: 
 
ASP 
 
 8 
 
 BAC 
 
 scrape all the stalks till they are perfectly 
 clean ; tlirow tliem into a pan of cold water as 
 you scrape them ; when they are all done, tie 
 them up in little bundles, of about a quarter 
 of a hundred each, with bass, if you can get 
 it, or tape (string cuts them to pieces ; ) cut 
 off the stalks at the bottom that they may be 
 all of a length, leaving only just enough to 
 serve as a handle for the green part ; when 
 they are tender at the stalk, which will be 
 in from twenty to thirty minutes, they are 
 done enough. Great care must be talcen to 
 watch the exact time of their becoming ten- 
 der; take tliem up just at that instant, and 
 they will have their true flavor and color: 
 a minute or two more boiling destroys both. 
 While the asparagus is boiling, toast a round 
 of a quartern loaf, about half an inch thick ; 
 brown it delicately on both sides; dip it 
 lightly in tlie liquor the asparagus was boiled 
 in, and lay it in die middle of a dish: melt 
 some butter, then lay in the asparagus upon 
 the toast, which must project beyond the as- 
 paragus, that the company may see there is 
 a toast. 
 
 ASPARAGUS, BOILED. Scrape and 
 tie them in small bundles; cut them even, 
 boil them quick i^i salt and water ; lay tlxm 
 on a toast dipped in tlie v. ater the asparagus 
 was boiled in ; pom* over them melted butter. 
 
 ASPARAGUS AND EGGS. Toast a 
 slice of bread, butter it, and lay it on a dish ; 
 butter some eggs thus: take four eggs, beat 
 lliem well, put them into a sauce pan witli 
 two ounces of butter, and a little salt, until 
 of a sufficient consistence, and lay them on 
 the toast; meanwhile boil some asparagus 
 tender, cut tlie ends small, and lay them on 
 tlie eggs. 
 
 ASPARAGUS, FRENCH. BoiHt,and 
 chop small the heads and tender part of tlie 
 stalks, together with a boiled onion; add a 
 little salt and pepper, and tlie beaten yolk of 
 an egg ; beat it up. Serve it on sippets of 
 toasted bread, and pour over it a little melt- 
 ed butter. 
 
 ASPARAGUS SOUP. (See S<mps.) 
 
 ASPICK. Take a knuckle of veal, a 
 knuckle of ham, a tliick slice of beef, and if 
 they will not make your jelly stiff enough, 
 add two calf's feet, or some swards of bacon 
 I'asped ; put them into a sauce-pan widi a pint 
 of rich stock, and sweat it over a stove til) 
 reduced to a glaze, then moisten it with stock, 
 boil and skim it well. Put to it two onions, 
 two carrot.*, salt, parsley, scallions, four cloves, 
 two bay leaves, and a clove of garlick ; let 
 the whole stew for seven hours, dicn strain off 
 the liquor or consomme. Break four eggs 
 
 into a stewpan, and put to diem the consomme 
 when cold, the juice of two lemons, and two 
 spoonfuls of tarragon, and beat it with a 
 whisk over the file till near boiling, and w hen 
 it does so, remove your stew-pan to a smaller 
 fire, and place fire on die hd for half an hour; 
 then pass it dii'ough a wet napkin doubled. 
 If the jelly is not sufficiently clear, clarify it 
 a second time. Put a layer of tliis jelly, about 
 half an inch tliick, at the bottom of an aspick 
 mould, garnish itwidi tiufiles, whites of eggs, 
 sprigs of parsley, &c. according to your taste, 
 pour in anodier half inch of the jelly, while 
 liquid, with great care, so as not to discom- 
 pose your garnish, then put either calf's 
 brains, breasts of fowl, veal sweetbreads, 
 cocks' combs, kidneys, fat livers, or game. 
 Be sui'e to lay whatever you may use, as equal 
 and smooth as possible, tlien fill up yoiu- mould 
 with jelly, and let it stand till set. When 
 wanted, dip tlie mould in hot water an in- 
 stant, place your dish on Uie top and turn it 
 over. 
 
 ATTELETS, OYSTER. {See Oya- 
 ters.) 
 
 ATTELETS are silver skewers, 
 
 AUNT MARY'S PUDDING. {Set 
 Puddings.) 
 
 B. 
 
 BACCHIC CREAM. (See Cream.) 
 
 BACCHIC SAUCE. (See Sauce.) 
 
 BACON. Cover a pound of nice streaked 
 bacon or salt pork with cold water, let it boil 
 gently for three-tiuarters of an hour ; take it 
 up, scrape die under side well, and cut oflF 
 the rind: grate a crust of bread not only on 
 die top, but all over it, and put it before die 
 fire for a few minutes: it must not be there 
 too long, or it will dry it and spoil it. Two 
 pounds will require about an houi- and a half, 
 according to its thickness ; the hoc k or giun- 
 mon being very thick, will take more. The 
 boiling of bacon is a very simple subject to 
 com-.ient upon; but our main object is to 
 teach common cooks die art of dressing com- 
 mon food in die best manner. Bacon is 
 sometimes as salt as .salt can make it, there- 
 fore bef(Me it is boiled it must be soalved in 
 warm water for an hour or two, c-lianging 
 the water once; then pare off the rusty and 
 smoked part, trim it nicely on die under side, 
 and scrape die rind as clean as jwssible. 
 3 1 em. — Bacon is an extia\agant article in 
 housekeeping; there is often twice as much 
 dressed as need be: when it is sent to ta- 
 lkie as an accompanimct to boiled poulti-y 
 
BAC 
 
 BAR 
 
 w veal, a pound and a half is plenty for a doz- 
 en people. A good German sausage is a 
 very economical substiltite for bacon ; or filed 
 pork sausages. 
 
 Note. — Bacon in England and salt 
 pork in America are the same thing. 
 What we name bacon, the English call 
 ham. 
 
 BACON TO BROIL. Make up a sheet 
 of paper into the form of a dripping-pan ; cut 
 your bacon into thin slices, cut oft' tlie rind, 
 lay the bacon on the paper, put it upon tlie 
 gridiron, set over a slow fire, and it will 
 Broil cleanly. 
 
 BACON AND EGGS. Cut a quarter of 
 a pound of streaked bacon into thin slices, 
 and put them into a stewpan over a slow fire, 
 taking care to tm-n them fiequently; when 
 sufficiently done, pour the melted fat of the 
 bacon into a dish, bi"eak over it seven or eight 
 eggs, add two spoonfuls of gravy, a little 
 salt and pepper, and stew the whole over a 
 slow fixe : pass a salamander over it, and 
 serve. 
 
 BACON, GAMMON, TO BAKE. Lay 
 
 it to steep all night in water, scrape it clean, 
 and stuff it with all manner of sweet herbs, 
 as thjrme, sage, savory, sweet marjoram, pen- 
 ny-royal, strawberry leaves, violet leaves, and 
 fennel; chop these small, and mix tliem with 
 the yolks of hard eggs, pepper and nutmeg 
 beaten, and boil it until tender. When it is 
 cold pare off the under side, pull off the skin, 
 season it widi pepper and nutmeg, and put it 
 in a pie or pasty, with whole cloves and slices 
 of raw bacon laid over it, and butter ; close it, 
 and bake it. 
 
 BACON OR HAM SLICES. Ham, or 
 bacon, may be fried, or broiled on a gridiron 
 over a clear fire, or toasted with a fork: take 
 care to slice it of die same thickness in every 
 part. If you wish it curled, cut it in slices 
 about two inches long (if longer, the outside 
 will he done too much before the inside is 
 done enough); roll it up, and put a little 
 wooden skewer through it : put it in a cheese- 
 toaster or Dutch oven, for eight or ten minutes, 
 turning it as it gets crisp. This is considered 
 the handsomest way of dressing bacon ; but 
 we like it best uncurled, because it is crisper, 
 and more equally done. Slices of ham or 
 bacon should not be more than half a quarter 
 of an inch thick, and will eat much more 
 mellow if soaked in hot water for a quarter 
 of an hour, and then dried in a cloth before 
 they ai'e broiled, &c. 
 
 BACON RELISHING RASHERS. 
 If you have any cold b^con, you may ma^^ 
 
 a very nice dish of it by cntting it into slice* 
 about a quarter of an inch thick ; grate some 
 crust of bread, as directed for ham and pow- 
 der diem well with it on both sides ; lay the 
 rashei-s in a cheese-toaster, diey will be 
 browned on one side in about three minutes, 
 tui-n tiiem and do the other. These are a 
 delicious accompaniment to poached or fried 
 eggs: the bacon having been boiled first, is 
 tender and mellow. They are an exceUent 
 garnish round veal cutlets, or sweetbreads, 
 or calf's head hash, or green peas or beans^ 
 &c. 
 
 BAIN MARIE. A flat vessel, contain- 
 ing boiling water, meant to hold other sauce- 
 pans, eidier for purposes of cookeiy or to keep 
 dishes hot. The advantages of preserving 
 the heat of dishes by the bain marie is this, 
 that no change is effected in the flavor of 
 the ingredients. 
 
 BALM BEER. {See Beer.) 
 
 BANBURY CAKES. {See Cakes.) 
 
 BARLEY CREAM. {See Cream.) 
 
 BARLEY WATER. Take a couple of 
 oimces of pearl barley, wash it clean with 
 cold water, put it into half a pint of boiling 
 water, and let it boil for five minutes ; pour 
 off this water, and add to it two quarts of 
 boihng water: boil it to two pints, and strain 
 it. The above is simple barley water. To 
 a quart of this is; fi-equently added two ounces 
 of rigs, sliced ; the same of raisins, stoned ; 
 half an ounce of liquorice, sliced and bruised ; 
 and a pint of water. Boil it till it is re- 
 duced to a quart, and strain. Obs. — These 
 drinks are intended to assuage thirst in ardent 
 fevers and inflammatory disorders, for which 
 plenty of mild diluting liquor is one of the 
 principal remedies : and if not suggested by 
 the medical attendant, is frequently demanded 
 by honest instinct, in terms too plain to be 
 misundeistood : the stomach sympadiizes with 
 every fibre of the human frame, and no part of 
 it can be distressed widiout in some degree 
 offending the stomach : tiierefore it is of the 
 utmost impoitance to sooth this grand organ, 
 by rendering everything we offer to it as 
 elegant and agreeable as tht nature of the 
 case will admit of: the barley drink prepared 
 according to die second receipt, will be re- 
 ceived with pleasure by the most delicate 
 palate. 
 
 BARLEY BROTH. {See Broth.) 
 
 BARLEY GRUEL. Take Uiree ounces 
 of pearl barley, of which make a quart of 
 barley water ; if it be not white, shift it once 
 or twice ; put in two ounces of ciurants cleeg^ 
 
B£A 
 
 10 
 
 BEE 
 
 picked aiid waslied, and when tliey ane plump- 
 ed, pour out the gmel and let it cool a little; 
 tlien put in the yolks of tliree eggs well teat- 
 en, half a pint of white wine, and of new 
 thick cream half a pint, and lemon-peel ; 
 tlien sweeten witli fine sugar to your taste ; 
 stir it gently over the fire, until it is thick as 
 creaun. 
 
 BARLEY PUDDING. ( See Pud- 
 ding.) 
 
 BARBERRY JELLY. {See Jelly.) 
 
 BARBERRY CONSERVE. Put a pound 
 of ripe barberries and half an ounce of pow- 
 dered fennel seed into a silver vessel, wiUi a 
 glass of water ; boil them tlu'ee or four times, 
 and press the juice tlirough a sieve. Replace 
 the vessel on the fire witJi the juice, and add 
 to it a pound and a half of sugar, boiled au 
 casse. Boil together a few times, and then 
 pour the conserve into cases. 
 
 BARBERRY SIRUP. {See Sirup.) 
 
 BARBERRIES TO PICKLE. Boil the 
 bruised berries of a few bunches in salt- 
 and-water; strain, and put a gill of the 
 liquor to a quart of vinegar, with an ounce 
 of salt, a quarter of a pound of loaf sugar, 
 a quarter of an ounce of pounded ginger, and 
 a little sliced horse-radish ; boil and strain 
 it, then pour it hot over the bai-berries, tlie 
 finest bunches having been previously select- 
 ed and placed in jars ; when cold, cover them 
 closely wjtll bladder. They may also be 
 kept in a jar, with a strong brine of salt-and- 
 water poured over them. When any scum 
 is observed upon tlie surface, the brine must 
 be jK)ured oflf, and some fi-esli added. They 
 are kept closely covered. 
 
 BARBERRY SIRUP. (See Sirup.) 
 
 BASIL VINEGAR. (See Vinegar.) 
 
 BATH BUNS. (See Buns.) 
 
 BATTER FOR FISH, MEAT, FRIT- 
 TERS, &c. Prepare it wiUi fine flour, salt, 
 a little oil, beer, vinegar, or white wine and 
 the whites of eggs beat up ; . when of a proper 
 thickness it will drop out of the spoon about 
 the size of a nutmeg at once. Fry in oil or 
 hog's lard. 
 
 BATTER PUDDING. (See Pud- 
 ding.) 
 
 BEANS. Cut, wash, and boil the beans, 
 and then throw them into a cullender. Put a 
 piece of butter into your table-dish, lay the 
 beans on it, and garnish tliem widi chopped 
 
 parsley laid round like a cord ; heat the dish 
 and serve. 
 
 BECHAMELLE. Reduce some sauce 
 toumee over a good fire, moisten with chick- 
 en broUi or consomme, constantly stirring to 
 prevent its catching ; when of theproper con- 
 sifelence, add two glasses of boiling cream, 
 continue stirring ; pass it du-ough a hair sieve 
 and serve. 
 
 BECHAMEL, OR WHITE SAUCE. 
 
 Cut in square pieces, half an inch thick, two 
 pounds of lean veal, half a pound of lean ham ; 
 melt in a stewpan two ounces of butter; 
 when melted, let die whole simmer until it 
 is ready to catch at Uie bottom (it requires 
 great attention, as, if it happen to catch at 
 the bottom of the stewpan, it will spoil the 
 look of your sauce) ; Uien add to it three 
 table-spoonfuls of flour ; when well mixed, 
 add to it thiee pints of broUi or water (pour 
 a litde at a time, thai the thickening be 
 smooth); stir it until it boil; put the stew- 
 pan on die corner of die stove to boil gently 
 for two hours ; season it with four cloves, 
 one onion, twelve pepper-corns, a blade of 
 mace, a few muslirooms and a fagot made 
 of parsley, a sprig of diyme, and a bay leaf. 
 Let the sauce reduce to a quart, skim die fat 
 off", and strain it tlu'ough a taniis clodi. To 
 make a bechamel sauce, add to a quart of 
 die above a pint of good cream ; stir it until 
 it is reduced to a good diickness; a few 
 muslirooms give a good flavor to diat sauce; 
 strain it through a tamis clodi. 
 
 BEEF. The names of the various pieces, 
 according to the method of dividing die car- 
 cass, are as follows: — The hind quarter con- 
 tains die Sirloin ; Rump; Edge-bone; But- 
 tock, or Round; Mouse Buttock; Veiny 
 Piece; Thick Flank; Thin Flank; Leg 
 Ran; Legs; Fore Rib; Five Ribs.— The 
 fore quarter contains the Middle Rib of four 
 rib§; Chuck of three ribs ; Shoulder, or Leg- 
 of-Mutton Piece, containing a pai't of the 
 Blade-bone ; Brisket ; Clod ; Neck End, or 
 Sticking Piece; Shin; Cheek. Besides 
 these are the Tongue and Palate. The En- 
 trails consist of die Heai't; Sweetbreads; 
 Kidneys ; Skirts ; and diree kinds of Tripe, 
 the Double, die Roll, and die Red Tripe. 
 
 Ox beef is considered the best. The flesh 
 should feel tender, be fine in the grain, and 
 of a bright red color, nicely marbled or mix- 
 ed widi fat. The fat should be white, rather 
 dian of a yellow color. 
 
 Heifer beef is excellent when finely fed, 
 and is most suitable for small families. The 
 bone should be taken out of a round of beef 
 before it is salted, and it must be washed, 
 skewered, and bound round firmly before be- 
 ing boiled. Salt beef should be put on with 
 
BEE 
 
 11 
 
 plenty of cold water, and when it boils the 
 scum removed. It is then kept simmering 
 for some houi-s. A piece weighing fifteen 
 pounds will require three hours and a half to 
 boil. CaiTots and turnips for garnishing 
 should be put on to boil witli die beef. If 
 in the least tainted, a piece of charcoal may 
 be boiled with it. 
 
 When beef is to be kept any length of time, 
 it should be carefiilly wiped every day. In 
 warm weather, wood vinegar is an excellent 
 preservative : it is put all over the meat with 
 a brush. To protect the meat from flies, it 
 may be sprinkled over wi th pepper. Tainted 
 meat may be restored by washing in cold 
 water, afterwards in strong chamomile tea, 
 after which it may be sprinkled with salt and 
 used the following day, first washing it 
 in cold water. Roughly pounded charcoal 
 rubbed all over the meat also restores it when 
 tainted. In Scotland meat is frequently kept 
 a fortnight smothered in oatmeal, and care- 
 fully wiped every day ; and if it should be a 
 little tainted, it is soaked some hours before 
 it is used, in oatmeal and water. 
 
 These dii-ections equally apply to all sorts 
 of meat. The sirloin is the prime joint for 
 roasting. When to be used, it should be 
 washed, tlien di'ied with a clean clotli, and 
 the fat covered over witli a piece of white pa- 
 per tied on with tliread. The spit should be 
 kept at all times exceedingly clean : it must 
 be wiped dry immediately after it is drawn 
 from the meat, and washed and scoured every 
 time it is used. Care should be taken to bal- 
 ance the roast properly upon die spit, but, if 
 not exactly right, it is tetter to make it equal 
 by fastening on a leaden-headed skewer than 
 to piei-ce it again. The fire should be pre- 
 pared by putting on plenty of coals at the 
 back. When put down, it should be about 
 ten inches from the fire, and gradually drawn 
 nearer. It is first basted with a little butler 
 or fresh dripping, and then well basted witli 
 its own fat all the time it is roasting. Ten 
 minutes before seiTing, it should be sprinkled 
 with a little salt, then dredged with flour, and 
 basted till it is fi*otlied. When it is drawn 
 from the spit some gravy will run out, to 
 which may be added a little boiling salt-and- 
 water poured along the bone: the beef is dien 
 garnished with plenty of finely scraped horse- 
 radish. A sirloin, weighing about fifteen 
 pounds, should lie roasted for du"ee hours and 
 a half. A Uiinner piece of the same weight 
 requires only three hours. In cold weatlier 
 meat requires longer roasting than in warm, 
 and if newly killed than if it has been kept. 
 
 BEEF ALAMODE. (1) Take about 
 eleven pounds of the mouse buttock, or clod 
 of beef, or a blade-bone, or the sticking-piece, 
 or the like weight of the breast of veal ; cut 
 it into pieces of du-ee or four ounces each ; put 
 
 ^ „V THF. 
 
 three or four ounbte of beef drippings, and 
 mince a couple of B^^e onions, and put them 
 into a large deep st'eiKpao ; aa eoon as it is 
 quite hot, flour the meat, ptrt it into the stew- 
 pan, keep stirring it with a wooden spoon; 
 when it has been on about ten minutee, dredge 
 it with flour, and keep doing so till you have 
 stirred in as much as you think will thicken 
 it ; then cover it with boiling water (it will 
 take about a gallon), adding it by degrees, 
 and stirring it togedier ; skim it when it boils, 
 and dien put in one di"achm of ground black 
 pepper, two of allspice, and two bay leaves j 
 set the pan by the side of the fii'e, or at a dis- 
 tance over it and let it stew veiy slowly for 
 about tliree houi-s ; when you find the meat 
 sufiiciently tender, put it into a tureen, and 
 it is ready for table. 
 
 BEEF ALAMODE. (2) Take the 
 bone out of a small round of fine ox lieef, cut 
 some fat bacon in long strips, dip them into 
 common and shallot vinegar mixed, and roll 
 diera in the following seasoning : Grated nut- 
 meg, black and Jamaica pepper, one or two 
 cloves, and some salt, parsley, chives, lemon* 
 thjTiie, netted marjoram, and savoury, shred 
 quite small. Lard the beef very diickly, bind 
 it firmly with tape, and iiib the outside with 
 the seasoning. Put it into a saucepan, with 
 the rind of a lemon, four large onions, die red 
 part of tlu'ee or foiur canots, and two turnips 
 cut into dice; add a tea-cupfiil of strong ale 
 and one of vinegar ; let it stew for six or eight 
 hours, turning it two or' diree times. Half 
 an hour before serving, take out the beef and 
 vegetables, skim off" tlie fat, strain die sauce, 
 and thicken it with a little floui-and-water 
 mixed smooth, add a tea-cupful of Port wine, 
 return it all into the pot, and let it boil. 
 
 BEEF ALAMODE. (3) Take a rump 
 or piece of beef, bone it, beat it well and lard 
 it with fat bacon, then put it into a stewpan 
 with some rind of bacon, a calf's foot, an 
 onion, carrot, a bunch of sweet herbs, a bay 
 leaf, Uiyme, a clove of garlic, some cloves, 
 salt, and pepper, pour over die whole a glass 
 of water, let it stew over a slow fire for six 
 hours at least. A clean cloth should be 
 placed over die stew pan before the lid is 
 put on, which must be carefiilly closed. 
 When it is done, sti-ain the gravy dirough a 
 sieve, clear ofFdie fat, and serve. 
 
 BEEF ALADAUBE. Take a round, 
 a rump, or a veiny piece of beef, lard it with 
 bacon, half roast it, or fiy it brown ; put it 
 into a stewpan or a pot tliat will just hold 
 it; add some gravy, an onion stuck with 
 cloves, half a pint of white wine, a gill of 
 vinegar, a bunch of sweet herbs, pepper, 
 cloves, mace, and salt ; cover it down very 
 close, let it but just simmer till it is tender'; 
 
BEE 
 
 12 
 
 BEE 
 
 lake two ox palates, two sweetbi-eads, truf- 
 fles, morels, artichoke bottoms, stew them all 
 together in some gravy, and pour over the 
 b^f ; have ready some forced meat balls fried, 
 make some long, others round, dip some sip- 
 pets into batter, fry and cut them three cor- 
 ner ways, and stick them into the meat ; lay 
 the balls round the dbh. 
 
 BEEF ALABRAISE. (1) Bone a 
 rump of beef; lard it very tliickly with salt 
 pork seasoned witii pepper, salt, cloves, mace, 
 and allspice, and season the beef with pepper 
 and salt; put some slices of bacon into the 
 bottom of the pan, with some whole black pep- 
 per, a little allspice, one or two bay leaves, two 
 onions, a clove of garlic, and a bunch of 
 sweet herbs. Put in the beef, and lay over it 
 some slices of bacon, two quarts of weak 
 stock, and half a pint of white wine. Cover 
 it closely, and let it stew between six and 
 seven hours. Sauce for the beef is made of 
 part of the liquor it has been stewed in, 
 strained, and thickened with a little flour and 
 butter, adding some green onions cut small, 
 and pickled mushrooms. It is poured hot 
 over the beef. 
 
 BEEF ALABRAISE. (2) After a 
 rump of beef has hung for five or six days, 
 bone, and lard it tliickly, but so as not to ap- 
 pear upon tlie surface, with bits of salt pork 
 or ham cut about half an inch square, and 
 rolled in the following seasoning well mixed: 
 — Finely minced onion, parsley, thyme, a lit- 
 tle garlic, pepper, and salt. What is left over 
 of the seasoning add to a pint of vinegar, one 
 of Port wine, and a tea-cupful of salad oil ; 
 steep the beef in this for one night ; the fol- 
 lowing day paper it, and roast it in a cradle 
 spit. Baste it well, and serve it with a thick 
 brown gravy. A little lemon-juice and sliced 
 pickled cucumbers may be added. Garnish 
 with slices of boiled carrot and scraped horse- 
 radish. 
 
 BEEF ALANGLAISE. Take a iTimp 
 of beef, or any piece you like better of the 
 same size ; tie it up neatly with packthread, 
 and put it into a stewpan with two or tliree 
 carrots, a parsnip, three or four onions, a 
 bunch of parsley and green onions, a clove of 
 garlic, a bay leaf, tliyme, and basil ; moisten 
 widi some stock or water, season, and let 
 the beef stew gently till half done, then put in 
 a few small cabbages, jjrepared in the follow- 
 ing manner ; boil a large cabbage, and hav- 
 ing squeezed it perfectly diy, take off the 
 leaves one by one, and put witliin each leaf 
 a little veal or other forcemeat, smrounding 
 it with three or four more of die leaves, in 
 such a manner as to form little cabbages, 
 something larger than an egg ; tie these with 
 packtliread, and let them be stewed with the 
 
 beef. When the whole is done, clean ai^y 
 the outside loose fat, and put your beef in a 
 dish, cut the little cabbages in half, and place 
 them round the dish, witli the cut side out- 
 ward. Take a little of the stew, strain it 
 through a sieve, and having skimmed off the 
 fat, add a little cullis to thicken it. Reduce 
 tliis over the fiie to the consistence of a sauce, 
 seiTing it over tlie meat and cabbages. 
 
 BEEF BALLS. Mince very finely a 
 piece of tender beef, fat and lean ; mince an 
 onion, with some boiled parsley ; add grated 
 bread crumbs, and season A\ith pepper, salt, 
 grated nutmeg, and lemon-peel ; mix all to- 
 getlier, and moisten it with an egg beaten ; 
 roll it into balls ; flour and fry tliem in boil- 
 ing fi-esh dripping. Ser\'e them with fried 
 bread crumbs, or with a tliickencd brown 
 gravy. 
 
 BEEF BOUILLI. (1) In plain Eng- 
 lish, is understood to mean boiled beef; but 
 its culinary acceptation, in the French kitch- 
 en, is fresh beef dressed witliout boiling, and 
 only very gently simmered by a slow fii'e. 
 Gjoks have seldom any notion, that good soup 
 can be made without destioying a great deal 
 of meat ; however, by a judicious regulation 
 of the fire, and a vigilant attendance on the 
 soup-kettle, tliis may be accomplished. You 
 shall have a tureen of such soup as m ill satisfy 
 the most fastidious palate, and the meat make 
 its appearance at table, at the same time, in 
 possession of a full portion of nutritious succu- 
 lence. This re<|uires nothing more than to 
 stew the meat veiy slowly (instead of keeping 
 the pot boiling a gallop, as common cooks 
 too commonly do), and to take it up as soon 
 as it is done enough. See " Soup and 
 bouilli," " Beef Shin stewed," " Scotch 
 barley broth." Meat cooked in tliis manner 
 affords much more nourishment than it does 
 dressed in the common way, is easy of diges- 
 tion in proportion as it is tender, and an in- 
 vigorating, substantial diet, especially valua- 
 ble to the poor, whose laborious employments 
 require support. 
 
 BEEF BOUILLI. (2) Take a rump 
 of beef, or part of one ; bone and tie it togeth- 
 er in a neat form, and put it into a pot, with 
 any odd bits of butcher's meat you may hap- 
 pen to have in the house, either teef, \eal, or 
 mutton ; you may add, also, the Ijoiies, feet, 
 and necks of poultiy or game, the meat of 
 which has been taken for other dishes ; place 
 youi-pot on a moderate fue, not quite full of 
 water, and skim gently. When it has boiled 
 a shoit time, put in some salt, turnips, six 
 carrotjs, and six onions, into one of which you 
 should stick three cfoves; add a bunch of 
 leeks. Let die whole boil gently, till the beef 
 is perfectly done ; tlien take it out, and serve 
 
BEE 
 
 i^ 
 
 BEE 
 
 it up eitlier with fi-esh parsley, with a sauce, 
 or with onions or other vegetables. 
 
 BEEF BROSE. After any large piece 
 of beef has been taken out of tlie pot it was 
 boiled in, skim off the fat witli part of tlie 
 liquor, and boil it in a saucepan. Have 
 ready in a bowl oatmeal that has been toasted 
 brown before tlie fire, pour in the boiling 
 liquor and stir it a little ; if too thick, add 
 more liquor, and send it to table quite hot. 
 
 BEEF BAKED. Let a buttock of beef 
 which has been in salt about a week, be well 
 washed and put into an eaithen pan, with a 
 pint of water ; cover the pan tight witli two 
 or three sheets of foolscap paper — let it bake 
 foul' or five hom-s in a moderately heated 
 oven. 
 
 BEEF BAKED WITH POTATOES. 
 
 Boil some potatoes, peel, and pound them in 
 a mortar with one or two small onions; 
 moisten diem with milk and an egg beaten 
 up; add a little salt and pepper. Season 
 slices of beef, or mutton chops, widi salt and 
 pepper, and more onion, if the flavor is ap- 
 proved; nib the bottom of a pudding dish 
 with butter, and put a layer of the mashed 
 potatoes, which should be as thick as a bat- 
 ter, and tlien a layer of meat, and so on al- 
 ternately till the dish is filled, ending widi 
 potatoes. Bake it in an oven for one hour. 
 
 BEEF TO COLLAR. Cut off the end 
 of a brisket of beef, and bone it ; sprinkle it 
 widi salt and saltpetre, and let it lie a week ; 
 mix together some grated nutmeg, Jamaica 
 and black pepper, some chopped lemon thyme, 
 sweet marjoram, and parsley ; strew it over 
 the meat, roll it up hard, sew it in a cloth, 
 put it into a large jar of water, tie it closely, 
 and bake it in an oven ; take it out of die 
 jar and press it widi a heavy weight. When 
 it is quite cold, take off die cloth, and keep 
 it di-y. 
 
 BEEF BROTH. {See Broth.) 
 
 BEEF, COLD RUMP STEAKS TO 
 WARM. Lay them in a stewpan, with 
 one large onion cut in quarters, six berries 
 of allspice, the same of black pepper, cover 
 the steaks with boiling water, let them stew 
 gently one hour, thicken the liquor with flour 
 and butter rubbed together on a plate ; if a 
 pint of gravy, about one ounce of flour, and 
 the like weight of butter, will do ; put it into 
 die stewpan, shake it well over die fire for 
 five minutes, and it is ready ; lay the stealis 
 and onions on a dish and pom- die gravy 
 Ijhirough a sieve over them. 
 
 BEEF, COLD TENDERLOIN. (1) 
 
 Cut oft' entire the inside of a large sirloin of 
 beef, brown it all over in a stewpan, then 
 add a quart of water, half a pint of Port wine, 
 a tea-cupful of strong beer, two table-spoonfuls 
 of vinegar, some pepper, salt, and a large 
 onion finely minced ; cover the pan closefy, 
 and let it stew till the beef be veiy tender. 
 Garnish with pickles. 
 
 BEEF, COLD TENDERLOIN. (2) 
 
 Cut off" die meat, with a little of the fat, into 
 sti'ips diree inches long and half an inch 
 thick ; season widi pepper and salt, dredge 
 them with flour, and fry diem brown in but- 
 ter ; dien simmer them in a rich brown gravy ; 
 add of mushroom catchup, onion, and shallot 
 
 inegar, a table-spoonful each, 
 with filed parsley. 
 
 Garnish 
 
 BEEF CULLIS. 
 
 iSee Cullis.) 
 2 
 
 , BEEF FILLET IN MADEIRA. Lard 
 
 a good fillet of beef, the same as for roasting, 
 join die ends together, and place it in this 
 manner in a stewpan, with some onions, car- 
 rots, and a bouquet garni, some consomme 
 and Madeira, cover it with a buttered paper ; 
 let it boil for a moment, and aflerwards let 
 it boil slowly. Put fire upon the top of your 
 stewpan. When it is done strain the broth 
 through a silk sieve, reduce it, and serve it 
 as a sauce to your meat. 
 
 BEEF FILLET ROASTED. This fil- 
 let lies only in die inside of the sirloin next 
 to die chine, and is the tenderest part of the 
 ox ; spit diis on a small spit, but do not nin 
 it tlirough die best part of the meat : roast il 
 gently, and baste it with butter ; catch gravy 
 in a dish while die beef is roasting; in the 
 meantime make a sauce for it with sweet 
 herbs and parsley shred fine, the yolks of four 
 eggs, an onion, and some orange-peel chop- 
 ped small ; put these into sweet butter, gravy, 
 a spoonful or two of strong broth and vine- 
 gar, stew them all togedier. Put your beef 
 into diis sauce, and serve it hot. 
 
 BEEF FRICANDEAU. Take a nice 
 bit of lean beef, lard it with bacon, seasoned 
 with pepper, salt, cloves, mace, and allspice. 
 Put it into a stewpan with a pint of broth, 
 a glass of white wine, a bundle of parsley, all 
 sorts of sweet herbs, a clove of garlick, a 
 shallot or two, four cloves, pepper and sah. 
 When the meat is become tender, cover it 
 close; skim the sauce well, and strain it 
 Set it on the fire, and let it boil till it is re- 
 duced to a glaze. Glaze die larded side with 
 this, and serve the meat on sorrel sauce. 
 
 BEEF GOBBETS. Take about six 
 pounds of any piece of beef, except the leg w 
 shin, cut it i.ito pieces about the size of a hen's 
 egg, put diera into a stewpan, and just cover 
 
BEE 
 
 14 
 
 BEE 
 
 them Avith water, put tliem over tlie fire, and 
 when the scum rises, skim it clear off, then 
 put in some cloves, mace, allspice, and whole 
 pepper, tied in a muslin, six heads of celery, 
 cut an inch long and well washed, a cairot 
 or two cut in slices, two turnips cut in dice, 
 a bundle of sweet herbs, some pepper and 
 salt, and a crust of bread; stew it till tlie 
 meat is tender, and then take out tlie spice, 
 herbs, and bread ; have some crusts of French 
 roll crisped before the fii'e, put them in a dish, 
 and jjut the meat, &c. over them. You put 
 in two ounces of Scotch barley or rice when 
 you put in the herbs. 
 
 BEEF GRAVY. {See Gravy.) 
 
 BEEF H-BONE. Is to be managed in 
 exactly the same manner as tlie round, but 
 will be sooner boiled, as it is not so solid. 
 An H-boue of 201bs. will \oe done enough in 
 about four hours; of lOlbs. in tliree hours, 
 more or less, as tlie weatlier is hotter or 
 colder. Be sure tlie boiler is big enough to 
 allow it plenty of water-room : let it be well 
 co\'ered with water : set the pot on one side 
 of the fire to boil gently : if it boils quick at 
 first, no art can make it tender after. The 
 slower it boils, the better it will look, and 
 the tenderer it will be. The same accom- 
 panying vegetables as in "Beef Salt Round." 
 Dress plenty of carrots, as cold carrots are a 
 general favorite witli cold beef. Mem. — 
 Epicuies say, tliat tlie soft, fat-like marrow, 
 wiiich lies on tlie back, is delicious when hot, 
 and the hard fat about tlie upper corner is 
 best when cold. 
 
 BEEF HASHED. (1) Take tluee or 
 four onions, chop them very fine, and put them 
 into a stewpan, with a piece of butter and 
 a little flour ; stir it over tlie fire till nearly 
 done and well browned ; then moisten them 
 with a little stock and half a glass of wine, 
 adding some salt and coarse pepper ; let them 
 stew till they are thoroughly done, and veiy 
 little sauce remains; tlien put in the cold 
 beef, minced small, and let the whole sim- 
 mer till it has taken the flavor of the onion. 
 When you serve, add a spoonful of mustard 
 and a little vinegar. 
 
 BEEF HASHED. (2) Cut some of 
 the underdone part of the beef, in slices, 
 with some of Uie fat, put it into a small 
 stewpan, witli some onion or shallot, (a 
 very little will do), a little water, pepper, 
 and salt: boil it tiU the onion is quite soft, 
 then put some of tlie gravy of tlie meat to it, 
 aud the hash. Do not let it boil ; have a 
 small hot dish with sippets of bread ready, 
 and put the hash into it, but first mix a large 
 spoonful of vinegar with it; if shallot vinegar 
 is used there will be no need of the onion or 
 
 raw shallot. You may add a spoonftil of 
 wabiut liquor or catchup. Observe, that it 
 is owing to boiling hashes or minces, that 
 they get hard. All sorts of stews, or meat 
 dressed a second time, should be only sim- 
 mered ; and this hist only hot through. 
 
 BEEF HAM. Rub a little common salt- 
 over a piece of beef of about twenty pounds 
 weight ; take out tlie bone, and in one or two 
 days, rub well into tlie beef tlie following in- 
 gredients, finely pounded and well mixed: 
 — two ounces of sal-prunella, four oimces of 
 brovra sugar, six ounces of bay salt, one 
 ounce of white pepper, and of cloves and nut- 
 meg, a quarter of an ounce each ; tlien strew 
 over it half a pound of common salt. Let it 
 lie fifteen days, tm-ning it daily. It is tlien 
 hung up; or when taken out of the pickle, it 
 may l)e boiled, and allowed to stand till cold 
 in tlie water in which it was boiled ; or it 
 may be baked in a deep dish, covered with 
 a coarse paste. 
 
 BEEF HEART, TO ROAST. Wash 
 it well, and clean all die blood carefully from 
 the pipes : parboil it ten or fifteen minutes in 
 boiling water ; drip tlie water from it ; put 
 in a stuffing which has been made of bread 
 ciTunbs, minced suet or butter, sweet maijo- 
 ram, lemon tliyme, and parsley, season- 
 ed with salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Put it 
 down to roast while hot, baste it well with 
 butter, frotli it up, and serve it widi melted 
 butter and vinegar; or with gravy in the 
 dish, and current jelly in a sauce-tureen. 
 To hash it, follow tlie directions given for 
 hare. 
 
 BEEF HUNG, BURGESS'S METH- 
 OD OF BOILING. Hung beef for grat- 
 ing should be put on in boiling water, and, 
 to preserve tlie color, kept boiling as fast as 
 possible. Allow for six pounds of beef pne 
 hour and a half. It will keep good for a 
 length of time. 
 
 BEEF, HUNTING. Rub well into a 
 round of beef weighing about forty pounds, 
 three ounces of saltpetre ; let it stand five or 
 six hours ; pound tliree ounces of allspice, 
 one of black pepper, and mix them with two 
 pounds of salt, and seven ounces of brown su- 
 gar. Rub tlie beef all over with die salt and 
 spices, let it remain fourteen days, and every 
 otlier day tuin and rub it witli tlie pickle ; 
 tlien wash oft" the spices, and put it into a 
 deep pan. Cut small nearly six pounds of 
 beef suet, put some into the bottom of the 
 pan, but the greater part upon die top of the 
 beef. Cover it wiUi a coarse paste, and 
 bake it eight hours. When cold, take off" 
 the crust, and pour off tlie gravy. It will 
 keep good for three months. Preserve the 
 
BEE 
 
 15 
 
 BEE 
 
 gravy, as a little of it improves the flavor of 
 hashes, soups, or any made dishes, 
 
 - BEEF KIDNEY. Take some kidneys, 
 cut them into tiiin slices, and broil them witli 
 a piece of butter, some salt, pepper, parsley, 
 and green onions, and a clove of garlick, the 
 whole should be shred fine ; when they are 
 sufficiently done, take them off the fu-e (they 
 should not broil too long, or they will become 
 tough); add, when you serve them, a few 
 drops of vinegar and a little cullis. Beef 
 kidneys may hkewise be served, with shallot 
 sauce, or sauce piguante. 
 
 KIDNEY SAUCE. (See 
 
 BEEF 
 Sauce.) 
 
 BEEF MINCED. (1) Take some cold 
 roasted fillet of beef, cut out all the fat and 
 suet, then chop tlie meat as fine as possiWe, 
 and put it into a reduced Spanish sauce made 
 boiHng hot; when ready to serve, add a bit 
 of butter to it. Serve your mince with soil 
 boiled eggs round it, or with pieces of toast- 
 ed bread. 
 
 BEEF MINCED. (2) Mince your 
 beef vei7 small ; put it into a saucepan with 
 a little gravy and a little of the fat of 
 fowl or any other fat, moisten it with some 
 stock and a little white wine ; season accord- 
 ing to your taste, then let it simmer over a 
 gentle fii'e till it is sufficiently done. 
 
 BEEF OLIVES. Cut tlie beef into long 
 thin steaks; prepare a forcemeat made of 
 bread-crumbs, minced beef suet, chopped 
 parsley, a little grated lemon-peel, nutmeg, 
 pepper, and salt; bind it with the yolks of 
 eggs beaten ; put a layer of it over each steak ; 
 roll and tie them with thread. Fry them 
 lightly in beef dripping ; put tliem in a stew- 
 pan with some good brown gi"avy, a glass of 
 white wine, and a little Cayenne ; thicken it 
 with a little flour and butter ; cover the pan 
 closely, and let them stew gently an hour. 
 Before serving, add a table-spoonful of mush- 
 room catchup ; garnish with cut pickles. 
 
 BEEF AND OYSTER SAUSAGES. 
 
 Scald three-quarters of a pint of oysters in 
 tlieir own liquor ; take them out and chop them 
 finely ; mince one pound of beef and mutton, 
 and three-quarters of a pound of beef suet; 
 add the oysters, and season with salt, pepper, 
 mace, and two cloves pounded ; beat up two 
 eggs, and mix tliem well with the otlier ingre- 
 dients, and pack it closely into a jar. When 
 to be used, roll it into the forai of smaU sau- 
 sages ; dip them into tlie yolk of an egg beat- 
 en up; strew grated bread crumbs over them, 
 or dust with flour, and (vy them in fresh 
 dripping. Serve them upon fried bread hot. 
 
 BEEF PRESSED. Salt a piece of bris- 
 ket (thin part of the flank) or the tops of the 
 ribs, with salt and saltpetre, five days, then 
 boil it gently till exU'emely tender; put it 
 under a great weight, or in a cheese press, 
 till perfectly cold. It eats excellently cold, 
 and for sandwiches. 
 
 BEEF POTTED. Take three pounds 
 of lean beef, salt it two or three days with 
 half a pound of common salt, and half an 
 ounce of saltpetre ; divide it into pieces of a 
 pound each, and put it into an eeirthen pan 
 just sufficient to contain it ; pour in half a 
 pint of water ; cover it close with paste, and 
 set it in a very slow oven for four hoiu's : when 
 taken from the oven pour the gravy fi-om it 
 into a basin, shred the meat fine, moisten it 
 with tlie gravy poured from the meat, and 
 pound it tlioroughly in a marble mortar with 
 fi-esh butter, till it becomes a fine paste, sea- 
 son it with black pepper and allspice, or 
 cloves pounded, or grated nutmeg; put it in 
 pots, press it down as close as possible, put » 
 a weight on it, and let it stand all night ; / 
 next day, when it is quite cold, cover it a 
 quaiter of an inch thick with clarified butter, 
 and tie it over with paper. 
 
 BEEF SALT ROUND. As this is 
 too large for a moderate family, we shall 
 write directions for the di-essing half a round. 
 Get the tongue side. Skewer it up tight and 
 round, and tie a fillet of broad tape round it, 
 to keep the skewers in their places. Put it 
 into plenty of cold water, and carefully 
 catch the scum as soon as it rises : let it boil 
 till all the scum is removed, and dien put the 
 boiler on one side of the fire, to keep sim- 
 mering slowly till it is done. Half a round 
 of 151bs. will take about three hours: if it 
 weighs more, give it more time. When you 
 take it up, if any stray scum, &c. sticks to 
 it that has escaped the vigilance of your skim- 
 mer, wash it off with a paste-brush : garnish 
 the dishes with carrots and tiuTiips. Send 
 up carrots, turnips, and parsnips, or greens 
 &c. on separate dishes. Peas pudding, and 
 MY PUDDING, are all very proper accom- 
 paniments. N. B.— The outside slices, 
 which are generally too much salted and too 
 much lx)iled, will make a very good relish aa 
 potted beef. For using up the remains of a 
 joint of boiled beef, see also Bubble and 
 Squeak. 
 
 BEEF RAGOUT. Take a rump of beef, 
 cut the meat fi-om the bone, flour and fry it, 
 pour over it a little lx)iling water, about a 
 pint of small beer ; add a carrot or two, an 
 onion stuck widi cloves, some whole pepper, 
 salt, a piece of lemon-peel, a bunch of sweet 
 herbs; let it stew an hour, then add some 
 good gravy ; when die meat is tender take it 
 
BEE 
 
 16 
 
 BEE 
 
 out, strain the sauce, tliicken it with a little 
 flour; add a little celery ready boiled, a little 
 catchup, put in the meat, just simmer it up. Or 
 the celery may be omitted, and tlie ragout en- 
 riched by adding mushrooms fresh or pickled, 
 artichoke-bottoms boiled and quartered, and 
 hard yolks of eggs. A piece of flank, or 
 any piece that can be cut free fi-om bone, 
 will do instead of the runii>. 
 
 •BEEF RISSOLES. Ciiop finely a 
 pound of lean tender beef, and a quarter of a 
 pound of Ijcef suet ; pound thein in a maible 
 mortar ; mix with it a quarter of a pound of 
 grated bread, a little onion, and a head of 
 giiriick liruised ; season with salt and peppei-; 
 bind it \vith three eggs well beaten ; miike it 
 up intq small cakes, fry them of a light brown, 
 then stew them in gravy for fifteen or twenty 
 minutes. 
 
 BEEF RIBS BONED AND ROLLED. 
 
 When you have kept two or tluee ribs of 
 beef till quite tender, take out the bones, and 
 skewer it as round as possible (like a fillet 
 of veal): before they roll it, some cooks egg 
 it, and sprinkle it with veal stuffing. As the 
 meat is more in a solid mass, it will require 
 more time ai the fire ; a piece of tenor twelve 
 pounasweignt will not be well and thoroughly 
 roasted in less than four and a half hours. 
 For the first half hour, it should not be less 
 than twelve inches from the fire, tliat it may 
 get gradually warm to tlie centre: the last 
 half horn* before it will be finished, sprinkle 
 a little salt over it; and if you wish to fiotli 
 it, flour it, &c. 
 
 BEEF RUMP BAKED. Take a rump 
 of beef, what size you please, bone and lard 
 it, season it with salt and fine spices put it 
 into a stevvpan just large enough to hold it, 
 together with half a pint of white wine, some 
 green onions, mushrooms, and shallots ; some 
 lean bacon is an improvement. Close tlie 
 edges of the pan witli a strong paste ; let it 
 stew in an oven for five or six houi-s according 
 to the size of your meat, then serve it witli 
 its own sauce strained. You may dress a sir- 
 loin in tlie same way. 
 
 BEEF RUMP TO STEW. (1) Bind 
 tlie beef tightly, stick in four cloves, and put 
 it in a saucepan, with three quarts of water, 
 a quarter of an ounce of black pepper half 
 beaten, some salt, a bunch of sweet herbs, 
 and tluee anchovies; turn it often, and when 
 half done take it out, pour off the liquor ; put 
 in tlie l)eef again, with a pint of Port wine 
 and lialf a pint of table lx;er made scalding 
 liot, and some of the liquor strained ; stew it 
 till tender, clear off the fat, and if the sauce 
 is not stiong enough, add well-seasoned beef 
 gravy ; thicken it with flour rubbed down in 
 
 a little cold water. Dish the beef, and pour 
 the gravy round it. 
 
 BEEF RUMP TO STEW. (2) Tie 
 
 up the beef, and put it on to stew witli nearly 
 as much cold water as will cover it; add three 
 pounds of fat bacon cut into slices, ahandfiil 
 of thyme, eight onions, four small carrots, 
 two turnips, two or thi'ee bay leaves, some 
 black ]:epper, a little allspice, mace, and 
 three cloves, a pint of Port wine and one of 
 Sherry. Let it stew gently l)etween seven 
 and eight hours. Take out the beef, strain 
 the liquor, and skim off all the fat ; thicken 
 it with a little flour rubbed down in cold 
 water, boil it up, and pour it over tlie beef. 
 Have ready carrots and turnips, cut accord- 
 ing to fancy, and lx)iled tender in weak gra- 
 vy, and put tliera round the beef before sei-v- 
 
 *BEEF RUMP-STEAKS STEWED. 
 
 The steaks must be a little tliicker than for 
 broiling: let diem be all the same thickness, 
 or some will be done too little, and otliers too 
 much. Put an ounce of butter into a stew- 
 pan, with two onions ; when the butter is 
 melted, lay in the riunp-steaks, let them stand 
 over a slow fire for five minutes, then turn 
 them and ici ilie oilier side of them fry for 
 five minutes longer. Have ready boiled a 
 pint of button onions; they will take from 
 half an hour to an hour ; put tlie liquor they 
 were boiled in to the steaks ; if there is not 
 enough of it to cover them, add broth or boil- 
 ing water, to make up enough for that purpose, 
 witii a dozen corns of black pepper, and a 
 little salt, and let tliem simmer very gently 
 for about an hour and a half , and tlien strain 
 off as much of the liquor (about a pint and 
 a half) as you tliink will make the sauce. 
 Put two ounces of butter into a stewpan; 
 when it is melted, stir in as much flom* as 
 will make it into a stiff paste; some add 
 thereto a table-spoonful of claret, or Port 
 wine, tlie same of mushroom catchup half a 
 tea-spoonful of salt and a quaiter of a tea- 
 spoonful of ground black pepper: add the 
 liquor by degrees ; let it boil up for fifteen 
 minutes; skim it, and strain it; serve up the 
 steaks widi tlie onions round the dish,and pour 
 tlie gravy over. Veal cutlets or mutton chops 
 may be done the same way, or as veal olives. 
 
 BEEF RUMP-STEAK BROILED 
 WITH ONION GRAVY. Peel and slice 
 two large onions, put tliem into a quart stew- 
 pan, with two table-spoonfuls of water ; cover 
 tlie stewpan close, and set it on a slow fire 
 till the water has l)oiled away, and the onions 
 have got a little browned ; then add half a 
 pint of good broth, and boil the onions till 
 they are tender ; strain the broth fi-om them, 
 and chop tliem very fine, and season it with 
 
BEEF 
 
 17 
 
 BEEF 
 
 mushroom catchup, peppei', and salt: put the 
 onion into it, and let it boil gently for five 
 minutes ; pour it into the dish, and lay over it 
 a broiled rump steak. If instead of broth 
 you use good beef gravy, it will be super- 
 lative. 
 
 BEEF SAUSAGES. Take two beef 
 steaks about tlie size of two hands, and the 
 thickness of a finger ; beat them well to make 
 tliein flat, and pare the edges of them ; then 
 mince the parings with beef suet, parsley, 
 green onions, mushrooms, two shallots, and 
 some basil leaver, the whole slu-ed fine, and 
 mixed into a forcemeat widi the yolks of four 
 eggs; spread this forcemeat on the slices of 
 beef, and roll them up in the form of sausages ; 
 tie them up with packtluead, and stew them 
 with a little stock, a glass of wine, some salt, 
 pepper, an onion stuck with two or three 
 cloves, a carrot, and a parsnip ; when they 
 are done, strain the liquor; and, having 
 skimmed off the fat, reduce it over tlie fire 
 to the consistence of a sauce. Take care 
 that die sauce is not too higly flavored, and 
 serve it over your sausages ; or they may be 
 served with any i"^out of vegetables you 
 please. To serve the sausages cold, to make 
 a dish for the second course, i educe the sauce 
 by letting it boil witli the sausages till almost 
 all the fat is consumed ; then let diem stand 
 to cool wiUi what remains of the sauce ad- 
 hering to diem, and sene upon a napkin. 
 
 BEEF, SHORT OR SPICED. (To 
 
 be eaten cold.) Hang up ten or twelve 
 pounds of die middle part of a brisket of 
 beef for three or four days, Uien rub well into 
 it three ounces of finely powdered saltpetre, 
 and, if spice is npproved of, one ounce of 
 allspice, and half an ounce of black pepper; 
 let it stand all night, then salt it with tliree 
 pounds of well-pounded bay salt, and half a 
 pound of treacle, in which let it remain ten 
 days, rubbing it daily. When it is to be 
 boiled, sew it closely in a cloth, let the water 
 only simmer, upon no account allowing it to 
 boil, for nine hours over a slow fire, or upon a 
 stove. When taken out of the water, place 
 two sticks across the pot, and let the beef stand 
 over the steam for half an hour, turning it 
 from side to side, then press it with a heavy 
 weight. It must not be taken out of die 
 cloth till perfectly cold. 
 
 BEEF SOUP. (See Soup.) 
 
 BEEF, SPRING GARDEN. Cut a 
 
 piece of lean beef into thin slices like Scotch 
 collops, lard it thick with bacon, and put it 
 into a pan with salt, f)epper, mace, two or 
 three bay leaves, and a bunch of sweet herbs ; 
 bake it ; dien clear out all the gravy, and fill 
 it up with clarified butter. 
 2* 
 
 BEEF TO SALT FOR IMMEDIATE 
 
 USE. Salt a round of beef moderately up- 
 on the tops and sides, put it upon sticks, or 
 the tongs of a cheese-tub, over a tub of cold 
 water, and the salt will be drawn dirough it, 
 so that it will be fit for boiling next day. 
 
 ANOTHER METHOD IS— To rub 
 
 for half an hour into any piece of beef a good 
 quantity of salt, and let it lie for three or 
 four days without touching it, when it may 
 be used. 
 
 BEEF SIRLOIN. The noble sirloin of 
 about fifteen fwunds (if much thicker, the out- 
 side will be done too much before the iaside 
 is enough), will require to be before the fire 
 about diree and a half or four hoiurs ; take 
 care to spit it evenly, that it may not be 
 heavier on one side than the other ; put a little 
 clean dripping into the diippingpan, (tie a 
 sheet of paper over it to preserve t!ie fat), 
 baste it well as soon as it is put down, and 
 every (juarter of an hour all the time it is 
 roasting, till the last half hour ; then take 
 off the paper, and make some gravy for it ; 
 stir the fire and make it clear: to brown and 
 froth it, sprinkle a little salt over it, baste it 
 with butter, and dredge it with flour ; let it 
 go a few minutes longer, till die frodi rises, 
 take it up, put it on die dish, &c. Garnish it 
 widi hillocks of horse-radish, so-aped as fine 
 as possible with a very sharp knife. A York- 
 shire pudding is an excellent accompaniment. 
 
 BEEF SHIN STEWED. Desire the 
 butcher to saw the bone into three or four 
 pieces, put it into a stewpan, and just cover 
 it with cold water; when it simmers, skim 
 it clean ; dien put in a bundle of sweet herbs, 
 a large onion, a head of celery, a dozen ber- 
 ries of black pepper, and the same of allspice: 
 stew very gently over a slow fire till the meat 
 is tender; this will take from about three 
 hours and a half, to four and a half. Take diree 
 carrots, peel and cut them into small squares ; 
 peel and cut ready in small squares a couple 
 of turnips, with a couple of dozen of small 
 young round silver button onions ; boil them, 
 till tender; the turnips and onions will be 
 enough in about fifteen minutes ; the carrots 
 will require alxjut twice as long: drain them 
 diy. When die beef is quite tender, take it 
 out carefiilly with a slice, and put it on a dish 
 while you thicken a pint and a half of the gra- 
 vy: to do this, mix three table-spoonfuls of 
 flour with a tea-cupful of die beef liquor ; stir 
 this thoroughly togedier till it boils, skim off 
 the fat, strain it through a sieve, and put your 
 vegetables in to warm; season with pepper, 
 salt, and a wine-glass of mushroom catchup, 
 or Port wine, or both, and pour 't over the 
 beef. Dr. Kitchener commends this dish as 
 one of die very best that can be carried to 
 
BEEF 
 
 18 
 
 BEER 
 
 table, and advises it be called Rap^out Beef. 
 A LKG OF Mutton is excellent dre-sed 
 the same way. 
 
 BEEF STEAKS, BROILED. Cut 
 
 the steaks off a rump or the ribs of a fore 
 quarter ; beat them well with a rolling-j)in. 
 Have the gridiron perfectly clean and heated 
 over a clear quick fire ; lay on the steaks, 
 and, with meat tongs, keep turning them con- 
 stantly, till they are done enough ; throw a 
 little salt OAer them a little before taking them 
 off the fire. Serve them as hot as possible, 
 plain, or with a made gravy and sliced on- 
 ion, or rub a bit of butter upon the steaks 
 the moment of sening. Mutton chops are 
 broiled in tlie same manner. 
 
 BEEF STEAKS, STEWED. Fry the 
 steaks in a little butter; take them out of the 
 pan, and fry in it a minced onion ; return the 
 steaks, witli a little boiling water or gravy, 
 some pepper, salt, and a table-spoonful of vin- 
 egar ; stew them gently for two or three hours ; 
 thicken tlie sauce with butter rolled in flour; 
 and serve with or witiiout pickles. 
 
 BEEF STEAK PIE. {See Pie.) 
 
 BEEF STEAK PUDDING. {See 
 Pudding.) 
 
 BEEF STEAKS, DRESSED. Cut 
 thin steaks, longer tlian they are bi'oad, off a 
 rump ; beat them with a rolling-pin ; season 
 them with pepper, salt, and finely minced 
 onion ; roll and tie tliem widi a thread ; cut 
 tliem even at tlie ends ; firy them brown with 
 a little Ixitter ; make a sauce with a piece of 
 butter browned with flour, some gravy or 
 water, a minced onion, pepper, and salt. 
 Boil it, and add the steaks, and let them stew 
 an hour. Before serving, add some mush- 
 room catchup, and take off the tlireads. 
 
 BEEF, SCARLET. Mix a little mace, 
 cloves, allspice, black pepper, and salt- 
 peti'e together, rub it well into two pounds of 
 tender lean beef; let it lie six days, turning 
 it daily, and rubbing it with the pickle ; then 
 roll and tie it firmly with tape; put it and 
 die pickle info a small jar, with a slice or 
 two of beef suet under and over it ; tie it close- 
 ly, and bake it an hour. It is eaten cold, 
 cut in thin slices, and garnish with parsley. 
 If long kept, the color fades. 
 
 BEEF STEWED. (1) Stew in five 
 quarts of water the middle part of a brisket 
 of beef weighing ten pounds, add two onions 
 stuck widi two cloves, one head of celery, 
 one large carrot, two turnips cut small, a 
 liandful of sorrel leaves, half an ounce of 
 black peppc, and some salt. Stew it gent- 
 
 ly for six hours. Make a strong gravy with 
 ctirrots and turnips, the tnrnips to be scraped 
 and filed of a brown color in butter ; add 
 pepper, salt, a little Cayenne ; tliicken it widi 
 flour and butter, and pour it over the Ijeef, 
 with the carrots and turnips. 
 
 BEEF STEWED. (2) Take ten 
 pounds of a brisket of beef, cut the short ribs, 
 and put it into a well-buttered saucepan, with 
 two large onions, stuck widi three or four 
 cloves, two or three caiTots cut into quarters, 
 a bunch of sweet herbs, a small lemon sliced, 
 and five quarts of water ; let it stew seven 
 hours. Strain and clarify die gravy — thicken 
 it with butter and flour. Chop the carrots 
 with some capers, mushroom catchup, and 
 Cayenne. Any other pickle that is liked may 
 be added. 
 
 BEEF STOCK. {See Stock.) 
 
 BEEF, MUTTON, OR VEAL TEA. 
 
 Cut a pound of lean gra%y meat into thin 
 slices ; put it into a quart and half a pint of 
 cold water ; set it over a verj' gentle fire, 
 where it will become gradually warm ; when 
 the scum rises, let it continue simmering 
 gently for about an hour ; then strain it 
 through a fine sieve or a napkin ; let it stand 
 ten minutes to settle, and tlien pour off die 
 clear tea. N. B. — An onion, and a few 
 grains of black pepper, are sometimes added. 
 If the meat is boiled till it is thoroughly 
 tender, you may mince it and pound it and 
 mal<^e potted beef. 
 
 BEEF TRIPE FRICASSEE. Let 
 
 your tripe be very white, cut it into slips, 
 put it into some boiled gravy, with a little 
 cream and a bit of butter mixed with flour ; 
 stir it till the Ijutter is melted; add a little 
 white wine, lemon-peel grated, chopped 
 parsley, pepper and salt, pickled mush- 
 rooms, or lemon-juice ; shake all togedier; 
 stew it a little. 
 
 BEER, SPRUCE. When ten gallons 
 of water, six pounds of molasses, and three 
 ounces of bniised ginger have boiled togeth- 
 er for half an hour, two pounds of the outer 
 sprigs of the spiuce fir are to be added, and 
 boiled for five minutes; the whole is then to 
 be strained through a hair sieve, and when 
 milk-warm, put into die cask, and a tea- 
 cupfid of good yeast stiired well into it. 
 When it has fermented a day or two, it is to 
 lie bunged up, and the following day bot- 
 tled. It will be fit for use in a week. The 
 ginger is sometimes omitted, and instead 
 of the spruce fir, three ounces of the essence 
 may be used, which is to be well whisked, 
 together with the molasses, and a galli)n or 
 two of warm water; then put into tlie cask^ 
 
BEER 19 
 
 which is to be filled up with water, and the 
 
 jeast added. 
 
 BIS 
 
 BEER, SPRUCE. (2) The propor- 
 tions are ten gallons of water, three quarts 
 of mohirises, a tea-cupful of ginger, the same 
 of alUpic.e, three ounces of hops, tliree 
 ounces and a half of the essence of spruce, 
 and half a pint of good yeast. Tlie hops, 
 ginger, and allspice, must be boiled togetli- 
 er till the hops fall to the bottom ; the molas- 
 ses and spruce are then to be dissolved in a 
 bucket-full of the liquor, the whole strain- 
 ed into a cask, and tlie yeast well stu-red in ; 
 when die fermentation ceases, tlie cask is 
 to be bunged up. 
 
 BEER, BALM. Eleven gallons of 
 water and ten pounds of brown sugar are 
 to be clarified with the whites of twelve 
 eggs, carefully skimmed and boiled till 
 nearly reduced to ten gallons ; two pounds 
 and a half of the yellow flower of lemon 
 balm being put into a cask, the liquor, 
 when milk-warm, is to be poured over it, 
 and four or five table-spoonfuls of thick 
 yeast added. The cask must be filled u[) 
 morning and evening with what works over 
 it, and bunged up when the fermentation 
 ceases. In a month the beer may be Ixittled, 
 and in two or three months it will be fit for 
 drinking. Half the quantity of the flower 
 of lemon balm will probably be ibund to 
 communicate a flavor sufficiently strong, if 
 added when the fermentation is nearly over. 
 
 BEER, GINGER. For a ten-gallon 
 cask, eleven gallons of water, fourteen 
 pounds of sugar, the juice of eighteen lem- 
 ons, and one pound of ginger are allowed ; 
 die sugar and water are boiled witli the 
 whites of eight eggs, and well skimmed ; 
 just before coming to the boiling point, the 
 ginger, which must be bruised, is dien ad- 
 ded, and boiled for twenty minutes; when 
 cold, tlie clear part is put into the cask, to- 
 gether widi die lemon-juice anj two sjjoon- 
 fuls of yeiist ; when it has fermented for 
 diree or four days, it is fined, bunged up, 
 and in a fortnight bottled. It may be made 
 w.Jiout the fruit. 
 
 BEER, GINGER, QUICKLY MADE. 
 
 A gallon of boiling water is poured over 
 three-(iuarters of a pound of loaf sugar, one 
 ounce and a quarter of ginger, and the peel 
 of one lemon ; when milk-warm, tlie juice 
 of the lemon and a spoonful of yeast are ad- 
 ded. It should be made in the evening, and 
 bottled next morning, in half-pint stone bot- 
 tles, and die cork tied down widi twine. 
 
 BEER TO BOTTLE. When the 
 briskness and liveliness of malt liquors m 
 
 the cask fail, and they become dead and 
 vapid, which they generally do soon after 
 they are tilted; let them be bottled. Be 
 careful to use clean and dried bottles ; leave 
 them unstopped for twelve hours, and then 
 cork them as closely as possible widi good 
 and sound new corks ; put a bit of lump su- 
 gar as big as a nutmeg into each bottle: 
 the beer will be ripe, t. e. fine and spark- 
 ling, in about four or five weeks: if the 
 weather is cold, to put it up the day before 
 it is drunk, place it in a room where diere 
 is a fire. Remember there is a sediment, 
 &c. at the bottom of the bottles, which you 
 must carefully avoid disturbing ; so pom* it 
 off at once, leaving a wine-glassful at the 
 bottom. 
 
 *^* If beer becomes hard or stale, a few 
 grains of carbonate of potash added to it 
 at die time it is drunk will correct it, and 
 make draught beer as brisk as bottled ale. 
 
 BEET ROOT, May be eidier baked 
 or boiled ; it will take from an hour and a 
 half to thi-ee hours, according to the size of 
 the root, to cook properly. 
 
 BEET ROOT PICKLED. Boil die 
 roots tender, [leel, and cut them in what 
 shape you please . Put them into a jar, and 
 pour over them a hot pickle of vinegar, pep- 
 per, ginger, and sliced horse-radish. You 
 may add capsicums and Cayenne. 
 
 BENTON SAUCE. {See Sauce.) 
 
 BENTON CAKES. (See Cakea.) 
 
 BIRDS POTTED, how to pre- 
 serve WHEN THEY BEGIN TO GROW 
 BAD. When birds have come a great way 
 they often smell so l)ad U.at they can scarce- 
 ly be borne from die rankness of the butter, 
 by managing them in the following manner 
 diey may be made as good as ever. Set a 
 large saucepan of clean water on the fire ; 
 when it boils take oft' the butter at the top, 
 then take the fowls out one by one, throw 
 them into that saucepan of water half a 
 minute, whip it out, and dry it in a cloth 
 inside and out; continue till they are all 
 done, scald the pot clean; when tlie birds 
 are quite cold, season diem with mace, 
 p^epper and salt, according to taste, put 
 them down close in a pot, and pour clari- 
 fied butter over diem. 
 
 BISCUITS. (1) Weigh eight eggs, an 
 equal weight of sugar, and the weight of four 
 in flour ; beat up the yolks of five, and put 
 them in an earthen vessel with some rasped 
 lemon-peel and tlie sugar, l)eat them togeth- 
 er for a long time, dien add the whites of 
 eleven eggs also well beaten, then mix in the 
 
BIS 
 
 20 
 
 BIS 
 
 flour by degrees, pour this into paper cases 
 of whatever form and size you please ; strew 
 powder sugar bver them, and bake in a cool 
 oven. 
 
 BISCUITS. (2) Make a pound of flour, 
 the yolk of an egg, and some milk into a 
 very stiff paste ; beat it well, knead till quite 
 smooth, roll very thin and cut into biscuits, 
 prick and bake in a slow oven till dry and 
 crisp. 
 
 BISCUITS, ALMOND. (1) Blanch 
 and pound a quarter of a pound of sweet al- 
 monds, sprinkling them occasionally with fine 
 sugar; then beat them up for a quarter of an 
 hour with an ounce of flour, the yolks of three 
 eggs, and four ounces of fine sugar, adding 
 afterwards tlie whites of four eggs whipped to 
 a froth : have ready some paper moulds made 
 like boxes, about the length of two fingers 
 square ; butter them within, and put in the 
 biscuits, throwing over them equal quantities 
 of flour and powdered sugar : bake in a cool 
 oven, and when the biscuits are done of a 
 good color, take them out of the papers. 
 Bitter almond biscuits are made in the same 
 manner, with this difference, that to two 
 ounces of bitter almonds must be added one 
 ounce of sweet almonds. 
 
 BISCUITS, ALMOND. (2) Take 
 eight ounces of sweet, and as many bitter al- 
 monds, fifteen whites, and eight yolks of eggs, 
 two ounces of flour, and two pounds of powder 
 sugar, pour boiling water on your almonds, 
 and almost immediately after turn that away 
 and pour cold water on them ; rub off the 
 skins one by one witii a napkin, then pound 
 tliem to a paste inamortar, moistening them 
 with the whites of two eggs. Beat the fif- 
 teen whites to a snow, and the eight yolks 
 with half the quantity of the sugar, and then 
 mix them with tlie almond |)aste; put the 
 remainder of the sugar into a basin ; sift some 
 flour over it; stir the mixture till all the in- 
 gredients are thoroughly incorporated, and 
 pour it into small paper cases, glaze them 
 with the sugar and flour sifted over them. 
 Bake them in a pretty warm oven. 
 
 BISCUITS, ALMOND ( SMALL). 
 Beat up the yolks of three eggs for ten min- 
 utes, with four ounces of powder sugar and 
 one ounce of bitter almonds well ponnded ; 
 then add a whole egg, and beat it up five 
 minutes longer. Whip the whites to a strong 
 froth ; mix them and an ounce and half of 
 fine sifted flour with the yolks; work this 
 paste well, and then pour it into small well- 
 buttered copper moulds melon-shajjed ; glaze 
 them; sprinkle tliem with powder sugar, 
 and bake for eighteen or twenty minutes in i 
 a moderate oven. 
 
 BISCUITS, ALMOND (Souffles). 
 Blanch half a pound of sweet almonds, cut 
 them into dice and dry them in tlie oven. 
 Make a glaze with the whites of two new- 
 laid eggs ; mix the almonds and a pinch of 
 crisped orange-flowers into this, and put it 
 into very small paper cases ; do not fill them 
 above half full, as they rise considerably in 
 the oven, and would otherwise fall over and 
 spoil their appearance; bake them in a 
 moderately heated oven. As soon as they 
 are pretty firm, they are done. 
 
 BISCUITS, ANISE (SMALL). Wash 
 
 four drachms of starred anise, and dry it in 
 tlie oven ; work up the yolks of five eggs and 
 a (juarter of a pound of powder sugar for 
 about ten minutes; whip the whites to a 
 strong froth, and mix them lightly with tlie 
 yolks : add a quarter of a pound of dry sifted 
 flour and the anise ; pour this paste into a 
 paper case, eleven inches long by seven wide. 
 Bake it in a slow oven for about forty or 
 fifty minutes, when, if firm, take it out. As 
 soon as it is cold remove tlie paper, and cut 
 the biscuits into whatever forms you please: 
 dry thcin in the oven until they become 
 brittle. 
 
 BISCUIT, BREAD. Dry fine flour and 
 powder sugar, of each half a pound, thor- 
 oughly : beat up four veiy fresh eggs for ten 
 minutes, then add die sugar, beat them ten 
 minutes longer, put the flour, and continue 
 beating ten minutes more. Butter your bak- 
 ing plates and bake. Caraway or aniseed 
 may be added, if you please. 
 
 BISCUITS, BUTTER. Make a paste 
 as for sweet biscuits, and when you have 
 put in the flour, pour over it eight ounces of 
 melted butter, after it has cooled a little; 
 mix them together a short time with a wood- 
 en s|xwn, and put into buttered moulds, 
 which must only be filled three parts, as the 
 paste puffs up considerably, and would rise 
 from the moulds, without care. 
 
 BISCUIT CAKE. (See Cake.) 
 
 BISCUITS, CHESTNUT. Take six 
 ounces of roasted and skinned chestnuts, a 
 little grated lemon-peel, a pound and a half 
 of powder sugar, and ten whites of eggs. 
 Pound the chestnut^ to a paste, and then 
 beat it up in an eartlien pan with the other 
 ingredients ; when your paste is of a proper 
 thickness, take it up with a knife, and lay 
 it on paper, and form into biscuits whatever 
 size you please. Bake them in a moderate 
 oven, and when of a nice color take them 
 out. Do not remove tliem from the paper 
 till they are cold. 
 
BIS 
 
 21 
 
 BIS 
 
 BISCUITS, DROP. (1) Pound and sift 
 a pound of fine sugar, take tlie yolks of seven 
 and the whites of ten eggs and beat well sepa- 
 rately for an hour. Dry and sift a pound of 
 fine flour, and when cold mix it with tlie 
 eggs and sagai-, beat all together for a quarter 
 of an hour, drop upon paper, sift sugar over, 
 and bake them. 
 
 BISCUITS, DROP. (2) Beat a pound 
 of sugar, die yolks of four, and whites of two 
 eggs, wiUi a little white wine, then put in a 
 pound of flour, and a few seeds, mix all well 
 togetlier. Butter a paper, lay your batter 
 on in spoonfuls, ice them with fine sugar, 
 and set tliem in a gentle oven. 
 
 ■ ;■ BISCUITS EN CAPSULE. Put half 
 a pound of fine sugar into an eartlien pan, 
 and pour over it the yolks of twelve eggs ; 
 put the whites into a preserving-pan, and 
 whisk diem for half an hour ; in die mean- 
 time the sugar and yolks of eggs must be 
 stirred widi a wooden spoon, and pour them 
 on the -whites ; stu" them gently, add six 
 ounces of fine flour and two of powder sugar 
 sifted, and die grated rind of a lemon. Mix 
 it all well together, but with great caie, lest 
 the snow of the whites should fall. With 
 this fill some small buttered moulds, or pa- 
 per cases, and bake Uiem in a quick oveti to 
 a deep yellow, first sprinkling them with su- 
 gar. If diey are in moulds, turn them out 
 when baked; but diey may remain in the 
 paper cases, which need not be buttered. 
 
 BISCUITS, FILBERT. Take half a 
 pound of filljerts, an ounce of bitter almonds, 
 the whites of six, and the yolks of tliree 
 eggs, an ounce of flour, and half a pound of 
 sugar; blanch and pound the filterts and 
 almonds, adding, occasionally, a little white 
 of egg to prevent their oiling. Beat the 
 whites to a snow, then the yolks, mix the 
 latter with half the sugar; beat them well, 
 and having mixed the other ingredients to- 
 gether, put diem into a sieve, and whilst 
 you are beating, sift them into the whites; 
 when all are thoroughly incorporated, pour 
 the preparation into paper cases, and bake 
 them in a moderate oven. A little grated 
 lemon-peel, or any odier aromatic ingre- 
 dient added to tlie yolks, greatly improves 
 these biscuits. 
 
 BISCUIT, FRENOT. Weigh five eggs, 
 and their weight in dried and sifled flour, 
 and in (inely-ix)unded loaf sugar; beat the 
 whites of the eggs to a stiff" froth, and by 
 degrees beat in the sugar and die flour, and 
 then add the beaten yolks ; widi a spoon half 
 fill yellow tea-cups, previously nibbed with 
 butter, and sift loaf sugar over the top. Bake 
 thera in a quick oven, Or, drop the biscuit 
 
 in a round form upon sheets of white papef 
 buttered ; sift sugar over them. 
 
 BISCUIT, KING'S. Put lialf a pound 
 of butter into a basin, and work it about 
 well with a wooden spoon ; break six eggs 
 and whisk them well, add a half pound of 
 powder-sugar, and whisk ten minutes longer, 
 and then mix diem with the butter; stir in 
 six ounces of currants, and die same of dried 
 flour. When all is well mixed, drop it, the 
 size of a shilling, on paper, and bake in a 
 quick oven. Take them off while hot. 
 
 BISCUIT, LEMAN'S. Sifl and dry 
 a pound of fine floiu* ; rub it into a quarter 
 of a pound of butter, two ounces of pounded 
 and sifted loaf sugar, and a bit of volatile 
 salt about the size of a nut ; mix in as much 
 new milk warmed as will make it into a stiff 
 paste ; work it well together, and let it re- 
 main for two or diree hours, and then roll it 
 out, and make it into small square biscuits, 
 and into round balls a little flattened ; prick 
 tliem with a fork, and bake them upon tins 
 in a quick oven. Take care they do not 
 become brown. 
 
 BISCUITS, NAPLES. Put three- 
 quarters of a pound of fine flour to a pound 
 of fine sifted sugar ; sift bodi together three, 
 times, then add six eggs beaten well, and a 
 spoonful of rose-water; when the oven is 
 neai-ly hot, balte diem, but not too wet. 
 
 BISCUIT, THE NUNS. Take the 
 whites of twelve eggs, and beat them to a 
 fi-oth ; a pound of almonds, blanch them, and 
 beat them with the froth of the whites of 
 eggs, as it rises ; then take die yolks, and 
 two pounds of fine sugar and beat them well 
 together, then mix die almonds with the 
 sugar and eggs ; then add half a pound of 
 flour, with the peel of four lemons grated, and 
 some citron shred small ; put the composition 
 in little cakepaiis, and bake them in a quick 
 oven, and when they are tjolored, turn them 
 on tins to harden the bottoms : but before you 
 set them in die oven again, sift on them some 
 double-refined sugar. Let the pans be but- 
 tered, and fill them halfway. 
 
 BISCUITS, POTATO. (1) Beat the 
 yolks of fifteen eggs widi a pound of sifted 
 sugar, grate tlie rind of a lemon on a piece 
 of lum|> sugar ; scrape off the yellow sugar 
 with a knife, and having dried it well, add 
 it to the above, and continue to beat till it 
 becomes quite white ; in the meantime whip 
 up an equal numlier of whites, and mix them 
 lightly with die rest; dien sift into it half a 
 pound of potato flour; stir it in, and jx>ur 
 the preparation into paper cases, but not to fill 
 them ; glaze, and place the cases on paper 
 
BIS 
 
 22 
 
 BIS 
 
 laid on a clean baking-tin, and bake in a 
 moderate oven. 
 
 BISCUIT, POTATO. (2) Beat sepa- 
 rately the yolks and whites of fifteen eggs, and 
 with the yolks beat a pound of pounded and 
 sifted loaf sugar, and the grated jieel of a lem- 
 on ; when very light add the whites, and sift in 
 through a sillc sieve half a pound of flour of 
 potatoes ; mix all lightly together, half fiU 
 paper cases, and strew over them roughly 
 pounded sugar, put a piece of paper upon a 
 boai'd, place the paper cases upon it, and 
 bake them in a moderate oven. To ornament 
 tliem, put here and there upon the top a 
 little red-currant jelly, and serve them. 
 
 BISCUITS, THE QUEEN'S. Take 
 a pound and a half of floiu-, a pound and a 
 half of fine sugar, the whites of twenty-four, 
 and tlie yolks of eighteen eggs, put in cori- 
 ander seeds beaten small at discretion ; mix 
 these well together, and make them into a 
 soft paste, add a little soft yeast or not. Lay 
 this paste on paper, or in crusts about two 
 inches broad, and four inches long, set them 
 in a mod'u'ate oven, and when they begin 
 to turn brown, take them out, and lay them 
 on paper, in a dry place. 
 
 BISCUITS, RICE. Take the grated 
 rind of a lemon, the whites of sixteen eggs, 
 the yolks of six, half a pound of rice flour, 
 ten ounces of powder sugar, two ounces of 
 apple, and the same of apricot, marmalade, 
 and two ounces of orange-flowers. Pound 
 the marmalades and orange-flowers together, 
 then add the whites of eggs, whipped to a 
 snow ; beat the yolks with the sugar for a 
 quai-ter of an hoiu-, put them to the rest, and 
 when well mixed in, add tlie lemon-peel and 
 rice-flour ; work all together, pour tlie prep- 
 aration into paper cases, bake them in a 
 moderate oven, and glaze them. 
 
 BISCUITS, SMALL. Make a paste 
 with a quarter of a pound of flour, three 
 Sfraonfuls of fine powder sugar, and the same 
 of marmalade ; add whites of eggs to work 
 it pretty soft; and make this paste to what 
 shape and size you please. 
 
 BISCUITS, SPUNGE. Beat together, 
 for half an hour, four well-beaten eggs, and 
 half a pound of finely-pounded loaf sugar ; 
 then mix in lightly six ounces of dried and 
 sifted flour, and the grated peel of a lemon, 
 or a tea-spoonful of essence of lemon, with a 
 table-spoonful of rose water. Flour the 
 pans, fill them l^lf full, and sift pounded 
 sugai' over them. Bake them in a quick oven. 
 
 BISCUITS, ST. CLOUD. Sift two 
 ounces of rice-flour tbi-ough a tammy into an 
 
 earthen pan, with half a pound of powder 
 sugar, the yolks of four eggs, and a little 
 green lemon grated ; beat them up together 
 for a quarter of an hour : whisk the whites 
 of eight eggs to a froth and mix them with 
 the yolks. Put this into buttered moulds or 
 paper cases, and bake in a moderate oven. 
 When done take them from the mould while 
 hot, and ice them in the following manner: 
 beat up half the white of an egg and two 
 spoonfuls of powder-sugar witli a wooden 
 spoon, add occasionally a few drops of lem- 
 on-juice; when it becomes quite white lay it 
 over the biscuits ; and place them in the oven 
 a minute to diy. 
 
 BISCUIT, SUGAR. (1) Theweightof 
 eight eggs in finely-pounded loaf sugar, and 
 of four in dried flour; beat sepai-ately the 
 whites and yolks ; with the yolks beat the 
 sugar for half an hour, then add the whites 
 and the floui', and a little grated nutmeg, 
 lemon-peel, or pounded cinnamon. Bake 
 them in yellow te^-cups, or drop them upon 
 paper, as the French biscuits. 
 
 BISCUIT, SUGAR. (2) Mix together 
 one pound of dried and sifted flour, the same 
 quantity of pounded and sifted loaf sugar, 
 ten well-beaten eggs, and a few pounded 
 cloves. Drop this upon floured tins, and 
 bake it. 
 
 BISCUIT, SWEET. One pound of 
 flour, half a pound of butter, the same quan- 
 tity of finely-pounded sugar, and two eggs, 
 without being beaten; make it all into a 
 very stiff" paste with cool water, roll it out, 
 and to form the biscuits, roll a bit of the 
 paste into a ball about the size of the yolk 
 of an egg, flatten it a little, and place them 
 upon tins to bake. 
 
 BISCUITS, YARMOUTH. Pick and 
 wash half a pound of currants, dry them well, 
 rub a little flour with them, and put them 
 with half a pound of powder-sugar, tlvee- 
 quarters of a pound of sifted flour, and half 
 a pound of fresh butter; mix them into a 
 paste with three eggs, roll it out to the 
 thickness of the eighth of an inch, cut them 
 into what shapes you please. Bake diem of 
 a light color in a hot oven. 
 
 BISHOP. Roast four good-sized bitter 
 oranges till they are of a pale brown color; 
 lay them in a tureen, and put over them half 
 a pound of pounded loaf sugar, and three 
 glasses of claret; place the cover on tlie 
 tureen, and let it stand till next day. When 
 required for use, put the tureen into a pan of 
 boiling water, press the oranges with a spoon, 
 and run the juice through a sieve ; Uien boil 
 tlie remainder of the bottle of claret, taking 
 
BLA 
 
 BLA 
 
 care that it do not burn ; add it to the strain- 
 ed juice, and serve it warm in glasses. 
 
 BLANC. A mixture of butter, salt, 
 water, and a slice of lemon ; also as follows : 
 — Cut a pound of beef suet, and the same of 
 fat bacon into dice, half a pound of butter, 
 the juice of a lemon, salt and pepper, one or 
 two onions, a bunch of parsley, a little thyme, 
 a bay leaf and spice. 
 
 -BLANCMANGE. (1) To one ounce of 
 picked isinglass, put a pint of water, boil it 
 till the isinglass is melted, with a bit of cin- 
 namon; put to it tlu'ee-quarters of a pint of 
 cream, two ounces of sweet abnonds, six 
 bitter ones blanched and beaten, a bit of 
 lemon-peel, sweeten it, stir it over the fire, 
 let it boil, strain and let it cool, squeeze in 
 the juice of a lemon, and put into moulds ; 
 garnish to your fancy. Blancmange may be 
 colored green by adding spinach-juice ; red, 
 by a bit of cochineal in brandy, let it stand 
 half an hour and strain it ; yellow widi 
 saffron. 
 
 BLANCMANGE. (2) Boil for a few 
 minutes a pint and a half of new milk, wiUi 
 an ounce of picked isinglass (if in summer, 
 one ounce and a quarter), the rind of half a 
 lemon peeled very thin, a little cinnamon, 
 and a blade of mace, and two and a half 
 ounces of lump sugar: blanch and pound 
 eight or ten bitter, and half an ounce of 
 sweet almonds very fine, with a spoonfiil of 
 rose water, and mix them with die milk; 
 strain it through a lawn sieve or napkin into 
 a basin, with half a pint of good cream. 
 Let it stand half an hour; pour it into 
 another basin, leaving the sediment at the 
 bottom, and when nearly cold fill it into 
 moulds ; when wanted, put your finger round 
 the mould; pull out the blancmange; set 
 it in the centre of a dish, and garnish 
 with slices of orange. N. B. — ^About half a 
 gill of noyeau may be substituted for die al- 
 monds. 
 
 BLANCMANGE. (3) Boil till dissolv- 
 ed, in a large tea-cupful of water, tliree-quar- 
 ters of an ounce of isinglass; when milk- 
 warm, add it to a quart of rich cream, with a 
 stick of cinnamon, the peel of a lemon, two or 
 three laurel leaves, or a few bitter almonds ; 
 sweeten with pounded loaf sugar ; stir it 
 over the fire, and let it boil for two or three 
 minutes ; strain it through a bit of muslin 
 into a deep dish, and stir it till nearly cold, 
 then pour it into an eardien-ware mould or 
 sliape ; tlie following day, dip the mould into 
 warm water for a minute or so, clap it with 
 the hand to loosen the edge, place the glass 
 or china dish over tlie mould, and turn it 
 out quickly upon the dish. AJb much cow- | 
 
 heel stock as will half fill the shape may be 
 substituted for tlie isinglass. 
 
 BLANCMANGE. (4) Blanch and pound 
 with a litde ratafia, or rose-water, two 
 ounces of sweet, and six bitter almonds ; dis- 
 solve three-quarters of an ounce of isinglass ; 
 add it, when milk -warm, to a quart of good 
 cream ; half milk half cream may be used ; 
 mix in the almonds the peel of a small lem- 
 on, and a bit of cinnaii^on ; sweeten it with 
 pounded loaf sugar, let it stand for two or 
 three houis, put it into a saucepan, stir it 
 constantly, and let it boil for six or eight 
 minutes ; strain it through a lawn sieve, and 
 stir' it till nearly cold, then pour it into a 
 iiiould. 
 
 BLANCMANGE. (5) Blanch and pound 
 one ounce of sweet almonds with a glass of 
 sherry, and a table-spoonful of pounded loaf 
 sugar ; add it to thiee-quai"ters of an ounce 
 of isinglass dissolved in half a pint of water, 
 and boil it till the flavor of the almonds be 
 extracted, stirring it all the time; sti-ain it 
 through a bit of Uiin muslin, and mix with 
 it a quart of good cream ; stir it till quite . 
 cold, and pour it into a shape. 
 
 BLANCMANGE, AMERICAN. Mix 
 
 half a pint of cold water with two ounces of 
 arrowroot, let it settle for fifleen minutes, 
 pour off die water, and add a table-spoon- 
 ful of laurel water, and a little sugar ; sweet- 
 en a quart of new milk, boil it with a little 
 cinnamon, and half the peel of a lemon ; pick 
 out the cinnamon and lemon, and pour the 
 boiling milk upon the arrow-root, stirring it 
 all the time. Put it into a mould, and turn 
 it out die following day. 
 
 BLANCMANGE, DUTCH. Wash one 
 ounce and a half of isinglass, pour a pint 
 and a half of boiling water over it, let it 
 stand for an lioui-, and then boil it for twen- 
 ty minutes; stiain, and when it is nearly 
 cold, add the beaten yolks of six eggs, a 
 pint of Lisbon wine, the peel of one and 
 juice of two lemons, with a stick of cinna- 
 mon, and sweeten with pounded loaf sugar; 
 stir it over die fire till it begin to simmer, 
 but do not allow it to boil ; pick out the 
 peel and cinnamon, pour it into a basin, 
 stir it till nearly cold, and put it into a 
 shape. 
 
 BLANCMANGE EGGS. Make a small 
 hole at the end of four or five large eggs, 
 and let out all the egg carefully ; wash the 
 shell, drain, and fill them with blancmange, 
 place them in a deep dish filled with rice or 
 barley to keep them steady, and when quite 
 cold, gently break and peel oft' the shell. 
 Cut die peel of a lemon into delicately fine 
 
BRA 
 
 24 
 
 BRE 
 
 shreds, lay them into a glass dish, and put 
 in the eggs ; or sen'e them in a glass dish 
 with a pink cream round them. 
 
 BLACK COCK, MOOR GAME, AND 
 GROUSE, Are all to be dressed like par- 
 tridges; the black cock will take as much 
 as a pheasant, and moor game and grouse 
 as the paitridge. Send up with tliem cm- 
 rant-jelly and fried bread crumbs. 
 
 BOILING. See directions at beginning 
 Of die book. 
 
 BOLAR CAKE. See Cake. 
 
 BRANDY PUDDING. See Pudding. 
 
 BRAISING PAN. A deep well-tinned 
 copper vessel, with two ears, the lid of which 
 must close hermetically, and have a ledge 
 round so that coals or hot ashes may be 
 placed on the top when necessary. 
 
 BRAISING. This is a method of 
 dressing meat, poultry, &c. &c. witliout its 
 undergoing any evaporation. It is done by 
 lining a braising-pan with thin slices of bacon, 
 beef, or veal, upon which place whatever 
 you may intend to braise^ and also add 
 cauTots, onions, lemons, bay leaf, herbs, 
 pepper and salt. 
 
 BRAWN,^ A COLLAR OF. Wash, 
 scrape, and clean very thoroughly a large pig's 
 head, feet, and ears ; lay diem into salt and 
 water, with a little saltpetre, for three hours. 
 To make the collar larger, boil two ox heels, 
 with the head, feet, and ears, till all the 
 bones can be taken out easily, then put the 
 bead round die mould, and the feet and small 
 pieces into the middle; put it together while 
 hot, and press it with a heavy weight till it 
 becomes cold. Boil for half an hour, in as 
 much of the liquor as will cover the brawn, 
 one handful of salt, one ounce of pepper, 
 and one or two bay leaves. When cold, 
 poui- it over the brawn. 
 
 BRAWN, MOCK. Take the blade bone 
 out of the shoulder, and boil it gently two 
 hours or more, according to the age of the 
 boar. When it is cold, season it very high- 
 ly widi pepper, Cayenne, salt, a very little 
 allspice, minced onion, and thyme. Let it 
 lie a night in this seasoning; the following 
 day, make a savoury forcemeat of pounded 
 veal, ham, beef suet, minced parsley, thyme, 
 and an onion, a little lemon-peel, salt, nut- 
 meg, pepper, and Cayenne; bind it with an 
 egg beaten, and stuft" where the bone has 
 been taken out. Put it into a deep pan with 
 the brown side downwai-ds, and lay under it 
 twigs or small sticks, to keep it trom stick- 
 
 ing to the bottom ; pour in a botde of beer, 
 and put it into the oven. When neaily done, 
 tiike it out and clear off all die fat/ add a 
 bottle of Madeira and the juice of a large 
 lemon, return it to the oven, and bake it till 
 it become as tender as a jelly, so that a 
 straw will pierce it easily. If the boar is 
 an old one, it will re(|uire to be baked six or 
 seven hours. This dish is eaten hot. 
 
 BRAWN, TO BAKE. Take raw lean 
 brawn, and the same quantity of fat bacon, 
 mince them small, then pfjund them in a 
 stone moitar, with a handful of sage, swason- 
 ed with salt, pepper and ginger, add the 
 yolks of eggs, and some vinegar, then put 
 the brawn into a cold paste, lay on Viutter 
 and bay leaves, make your pie round and 
 bake it. To be eaten cold. 
 
 BREAKFAST CAKE. See Cake. 
 
 BREAD. (1) Put a quartern of flour into a 
 large basin, with two tea-spioonftils of salt ; 
 make a hole in the middle; then put in a 
 basin four table-spoonfuls of good yeast ; stir 
 in a pint of milk, lukewarm ; put it in the 
 hole of die flour; stir it just to make it into 
 a diin batter; dien strew a little flour over 
 die top; then put it on one side of the 
 fire, and cover it over; let it stand till the 
 next morning ; then make it into dough ; add 
 half a pint more of warm milk ; knead it 
 for ten minutes, and then set it in a warm 
 place by the fire for one hour and a half: 
 dien knead it again, and it is ready either 
 for loaves or bricks: bake them from one 
 hour and a half to two hours according to 
 the size. 
 
 BREAD. (2) Mix into six pounds of sifled 
 flour one ounce of salt, neaily half a pint of 
 fresh sweet yeast as it comes from the brew- 
 evy, and a sufficient quantity of warmed milk 
 to make die whole into a stiff dough ; work 
 and knead it well upon a pasteboard, on 
 which a little flour has been sti-ewed, for fif- 
 teen or twenty minutes, then put it into a 
 deep pan, cover it with a wanned towel, set 
 it befoie the fire, and let it rise for an hour 
 and a half, or perhaps two hours ; cut off a 
 piece of this sponge or dough ; knead it well 
 for eight or ten minutes, together with flour 
 merely sufiicient to keep it from adiiering to 
 the board; put it into small tins, filling Uiem 
 three-quarters full; dent the rolb all round 
 with a knife, and let them stand a few min- 
 utes before putting thom into the oven. 
 The remainder of the dough must then be 
 worked up for loaves, and baked either in 
 or out of a sliape. 
 
 BREAD, ALMOND. Take a pound o 
 die best ahnonds, slice diem the round way. 
 
BRE 
 
 25 
 
 BRE 
 
 beat and sift a pound of double-refined sugar, 
 and sU-ew it over the almonds as you cut 
 them, stirring them frequently to prevent their 
 sticking together ; when all die sugar is used, 
 put them into an eardien basin, with a few 
 carraway seeds, a little gum dragon (dis- 
 solved in rose-water and strained), three 
 grains of musk and ambergris dissolved in 
 fine sugar, and the whites of two eggs beaten 
 to a vei-y light froth, and two spoonfuls of 
 fine flour; when well mixed lay them on 
 wafers the size of macaroons; open them 
 with a knife or bodkin, lest two or tliree 
 pieces stick together; the quicker you lay 
 them, the better they will look ; put them 
 into a well-heated oven, taking care they do 
 not scorch ; when half baked, take them out, 
 wash tliem with the white of an egg beaten 
 to a froth, grate a little fine sugar over them, 
 and bake tliem about half an hour longer. 
 
 BREAD AND BUTTER PUDDING. 
 
 See Pudding. 
 
 BREAD, CHESTNUT. Roast a hun- 
 dred fine chestnuts, being carefid not to 
 burn them ; peel them well, and pound them 
 with butter and double cream; pass tliem 
 through a sieve ; add two eggs, and then 
 strain them again. Weigh your paste, and 
 for every pound, allow half a pound of 
 powder, a little vanilla in powder, and two 
 ounces of floui-; mix tliese together, and 
 form of the preparation as many chestnuts 
 as it will make; lay them on a sheet of 
 wafer paper, butter and dorez tliem seve- 
 ral times, and dien bake them in a hot oven. 
 
 BREAD CHEESECAKES. Slice a 
 large French roll very thin, pour on it some 
 boiling cream ; when cold, add six or eight 
 eggs, half a pound of butter melted, some 
 nutmeg, a spoonful of brandy, a little sugar, 
 and half a pound of currants. Put them in 
 puff paste as otlier cheesecakes. 
 
 BREAD, TO SERVE WITH COF- 
 FEE. Whip up the whites of ten eggs to 
 a thick snow ; add to them the yolks beaten 
 with eight ounces of powder-sugar, place it 
 over a charcoal fire, and wliij) it for half an 
 hour, then take it from the fire, and whip 
 again until cold. Mix in eight ounces of 
 sifted flour. Have ready buttered two 
 moulds lined with paper, pour tlie paste in- 
 to them, and bake them in a moderate oven ; 
 when done, take them out of the moulds and 
 remove die paper ; when cold, cut them in 
 slices alx>ut the size of a finger. Place Uiem 
 on a plate of copper, over a charcoal fire, 
 and when one side is brown, turn diem and 
 brown die odier side. These if kept dry 
 will be good for a long time. 
 3 
 
 BREAD CRUMBS, FRIED. Rub bread 
 
 that has been baked two days, through an 
 iron sieve or cullender ; put diera into a stew 
 pan with two ounces of butter ; place it ov&r 
 a moderate fire, and stir them with a wooden 
 spoon till of a fine gold color ; spread them 
 on a sieve, and let them stand ten minutes 
 to drain, turning them often. 
 
 BREAD, FRENCH. Take half a bushel 
 (or six pounds) of flour, put it on the slab, 
 make a hole in the centre, in which put two 
 ounces of yeast; make your dough with warm 
 water, to about the consistence of brioche; 
 work it up well, adding two ounces of salt, 
 dissolved in a little warm water; cover, and 
 set it in a warm place to rise ; on this part 
 of the operation depends the quality of the 
 bread. Having left the dough one or two 
 hours, (according to the season), knead it 
 again, and leave, it as before, for two hours. 
 In the meanwhile, heat the oven, divide the 
 dough into eight equal parts, of which form 
 as many loaves, into any shape you pleaae; 
 put them into the oven as quickly as possible. 
 As soon as they ai'e done, rub the crusts with 
 a little butter, which will give it a fine yellow 
 color. 
 
 BREAD, FRENCH, OR ROLLS. 
 
 Take half a bushel or six pounds of sifted 
 flour, knead it into dough, with two quarts 
 of milk, three-quarters of a pound of warm 
 butter, half a pound of yeast, and two ounces 
 of salt ; when the whole is well worked up, 
 cover, and leave it to rise. In two hours 
 time, form it into rolls, and lay them on 
 tinned plates. Place them in a slow oven. 
 When they have been in an hour, put them 
 into a very hot oven for twenty minutep. 
 Rasp diem as soon as they are baked. 
 
 BREAD FRITTERS. Boil half a pint 
 of milk till reduced to half, with a little 
 sugar, salt, half a spoonful of orange-flower 
 water, and a little lemon-peel shred fine; 
 have ready some pieces of crumb of bread, 
 cut about the size of half-crowns, but thicker ; 
 put them into the milk to soak a little, then 
 di-ain, flour, and fi-y them. Glaze them with 
 sugar, and pass the salamander over them. 
 
 BREAD, LONDON. To make London 
 bread, put a bushel of good flour which has 
 been ground a month or six weeks, in one 
 end of die trough, and make a hole in the 
 middle of it. Take nine quarts of warm 
 water, and mix it with one quart of good 
 yeast ; put it into the flour, and stir it well 
 with your hands ; let it remain until it rises 
 as high as it will go, which will take about 
 an hour and a quarter. Watch it carefidly 
 to its idtimate height, and do not suffer it to 
 
BRE 
 
 26 
 
 BRE 
 
 f^U; then make up the dough with eight 
 quarts more of warm water and one pound 
 of salt; work it well with your hands, and 
 then cover it over with a sack or other coarse 
 cloth. Put tlie fire into the oven; heat it 
 thoroughly, and by tlie time it is hot, the 
 dough will be ready. Next make the dough 
 into loaves, not exceeding four or five pounds 
 each, sweep out the oven clean, and put in 
 the loaves. Shut the oven close, and they 
 will be baked in about two hours and a half; 
 then o[)en die oven, and draw the bread. In 
 summer tlie water need not be moi'e than 
 blood warm, but in winter it must be a few 
 degrees higher in heat. Dui-ing a hard 
 fi'ost, however, the water should be as hot as 
 the hand could bear it, tliough not sufficiently 
 hot to scald die yeast, as that would spoil 
 the whole batch of bread. Other quantities 
 of bread are made in the same proportion. 
 
 BREAD, PLAIN SHORT. The same 
 proportions of flour and butter must be used 
 as in the receipt for short bread ; this must 
 be mixed together, rolled out, but not made 
 quite so diick as in the rich kind ; but in the 
 same form, pricked with a fork, and pinch- 
 ed all round. A little sugar may be added. 
 
 BREAD, RICE. Take a pound of rice, 
 and let it simmer in two quarts of water till 
 it is quite tender; when it is of a proper 
 warmth mix it thoi'oughly widi four pounds 
 of flour, adding yeast and salt, the same as 
 for ether bread ; the proper quantity of yeast 
 to be used, is about four spoonfuls ; knead it 
 well ; then set it to rise before the fire. A 
 portion of die flour should be reserved to 
 make up the loaves. If the rice should re- 
 quire more water, it must be added, as some 
 rice swells more than odier. 
 
 BREAD, SPICED, COMMON. (1) 
 
 Boil three pounds of honey in a gallon of 
 water f jr a quarter of an hour ; then pour it 
 on the flour in the trough ; mix Uiem together 
 well, until the flour will imbibe no more li- 
 quid ; when a little cooled, add three ounces 
 of potash, infused the night before in half a 
 pint of milk, knead the whole well, putting 
 to k some pounded anise. Roll out the 
 pa.ste, and with paste-cutters of various forms, 
 cut it into little figures, lay them on a well- 
 oiled tin, and bake them; when done, wash 
 them over with milk. With this paste 
 spiced nuts are made ; when formed, lay them 
 on tins, and leave in a wai'ni place for two 
 or diree days before they are baked. 
 
 BREAD, SPICED, (2) FLEMISH. 
 
 The evening before you wish to make 
 your spiced bread, dissolve three ounces of 
 white potash in half a pint of milk, and set 
 it aside. The next morning put a consider- 
 
 able quantity of sifted flour into a trough, 
 make a hole in the heap, inlo which pour six 
 pounds of clarified honey ; whilst boiling, stir 
 it well with a strong spatula, until die honey, 
 reduced to a firm paste, will imbibe no more 
 flour, dien spread it all over die bottuin of 
 die trough, and leave it for about ten or fif- 
 teen minutes ; at the end of that time, if die 
 paste be sufticiently cool for you to bear your 
 hand on it, rub its surface with the infusion 
 of potash; then let a strong person knead it, 
 in the same manner as die bakei-s knead 
 bread. Have ready a number of different- 
 sized moulds of pear tree wood, on Avhich 
 are cut (pretty deep) octagons of various di- 
 mensions ; then cut your paste into as many 
 pieces as you have moulds, in the following 
 proportions: — for the mould containing a 
 pound, take eighteen ounces of paste ; for a 
 half pound, fourteen ounces; a quarter of 
 a pound seven ounces of paste, and so on ; 
 knead each piece separately on the slab, rub 
 them widi flour to prevent their adhering, and 
 then put them into the respective moulds; 
 press it down tight ; in a minute or two turn 
 diem over, place them on a tin plate (pre- 
 viously rubljed with olive oil), and widi a 
 soft brush take off what flour may remain 
 on the surface of the spicdd bread, and bake 
 them in a moderate oven. Whilst they are 
 baking, dissolve some isinglass in a sufficient 
 quantity of beer, with which, by means of 
 a hair pencil, wash die outside of the spiced 
 bread as soon as it is done ; and then, while 
 it is moist and warm, decorate it widi 
 blanched almonds, candied lemon and orange 
 peel., cut into dice. You may, if you diink 
 proper, cut these sort of sweet meats into 
 very small pieces, and knead diem into your 
 paste at first. When diey are nearly cold, | 
 separate the pieces with a knife. ^ 
 
 BREAD, SHORT. For two pounds of 
 sifted flour allow one pound of butter, salt or 
 fresh ; a quarter of a pound of candied orange 
 and lemon }x;el, of pounded loaf sugar, 
 blanched sweet almonds, and carraway com- 
 fits, a quarter of a pound each ; cut die lem- 
 on, the orange peel, and almonds into small 
 thin bits, and mix them with a pound and a 
 half of the flour, a few of the CEU-away com- 
 fits, and the sugar ; melt thelautter, and when 
 cool, pour it clear from die sediment into the 
 flour, at the same time mixing it quickly. 
 Widi the hands, fonn it into a large round 
 of nearly an inch thick, using the remainder 
 of the flour to make it up wiUi ; cut it in- 
 to four, and with die finger and thumb pinch 
 each bit neatly all round the edge ; prick them 
 with a fork, and strew the rest of the carra- 
 way comfits over die top. Put the pieces 
 upon white paper dusted widi flour, and 
 dien upon tins. Bake them in a moderate 
 
BRO 
 
 27 
 
 BRO 
 
 BREAD, TIPSY. Pare off the crust, 
 and cut into thin round slices of four or five 
 inches, the cnunb of a twopenny or three- 
 penny roll ; spread over each bit raspberry 
 or sti-awberry jam, and place die slices one 
 over the other pretty high in a glass dish, 
 and pour over them as much sherry, sweeten- 
 ed with sugar, as the bread will soak in; 
 stick round the sides, and over the top, 
 blanched sweet almonds, cut like straws, and 
 pour a custivrd round it. It may Ix; made 
 the day before, or two or tlu-ee hours before 
 dinner, and widi the cnunb of loaf bread. 
 
 BREAD SAUCE. See Sauces. 
 
 BRENTFORD ROLLS. Mix witli 
 two pounds of flour a little salt, two ounces 
 of sifted sugar, four ounces of butter, and 
 two eggs beaten with two spoonfuls of yeast, 
 and about a pint of milk ; knead the dough 
 well, and set it to rise before the fire. Make 
 twelve lolls, butter tin plates, and set them 
 before the fire again to rise. When of a 
 proper size, bake them for half an hour. 
 
 . BRIOCHE. Divide half a quartern of 
 flour into three parts, and knead into one of 
 them half an oimce of yeast and a little warm 
 water, wi'ap it in a cloth and set it by, in 
 summer time for a quarter of an hour, and 
 in winter for a whole hour. When it has 
 risen, put it to the remainder of the flour, 
 with a pound and a half of butter, ten eggs, 
 half a glass of water, and nearly an ounce 
 of salt ; knead them together with your hand 
 thoroughly, and then wrap it in a clean nap- 
 kin and leave it nine or ten hours. Cut 
 tlie paste into the size you wish to make the 
 cakes, moisten, and i-oll them in the hand, 
 flatten tlie top, and gild them witli the 
 yolk of an egg. Half an hour will be 
 sufiicient to bake the small ones; lai-ge 
 cakes will require an hour and a half. 
 
 BROILING. See directions at begin- 
 ning of the book. 
 
 BROCCOLI. Set a pan of clean cold 
 water on the table, and a saucepan on the 
 fire with plenty of water, and a handflil of 
 salt in it. Broccoli is prepared by stripping 
 off all the side shoots, leaving the top ; peel 
 off the skin of the stalk with a knife ; cut it 
 close off at the bottom, and put it into the 
 pan of cold water. When the water in the 
 stewpan boils, and the broccoli is ready, 
 put it in; let it boil briskly till the stalks 
 feel tender, from ten to twenty minutes ; take 
 it up with a slice, that you may not brealc it ; 
 let it drain, and serve up. If some of the 
 heads of broccoli are much bigger than tlie 
 others, put them on to boil first, so that they 
 may get all done together. Obs,—r\i makes 
 
 a nice supper-dish served upon a toast, like 
 asparagus. It is a very delicate vegetable,, 
 and you must take it up the moment it is 
 done, and send it to table hot. 
 
 BROTH, BARLEY. Chop a leg of 
 beef in pieces, boil it in tliree gallons of 
 water, with a cairot and a crust of bread, 
 till reduced to half; then strain it off and 
 put it into the pot again with half a joound 
 of barley, four or five heads of celei^ cut 
 small, a bunch of sweet herbs, an onion, a 
 little chopped parsley, and a few marigolds. 
 Let it boil an hour. Take an old cock or 
 large fowl and put it into the pot, boil till 
 the broth is quite good. Season with salt,? 
 take out the onion and herbs, and serve it. ; ' 
 The fowl may be omitted. ^^ 
 
 BROTH, OF BEEF. Wash a leg or 
 shin of beef very clean, crack the bone io 
 two or three places, add to it any trim- 
 mings you have of meat, game, or poultry 
 (heads, necks, gizzards or feet) and cover 
 them with cold water. Watch and stir it 
 up well from the bottom, and the moment it 
 begins to simmer, skim it carefully. Your 
 broUi must be perfectly clear and limpid — 
 for on this depends the goodness of the 
 soups, sauces, and gravies, of which it is 
 tlie basis. Then add some cold water to 
 make the remaining scum rise, and skim 
 it again. When tlie scum has done rising, ' 
 and the surface of the broth is quite clear, 
 put in one carrot, a head of celery, two ,' 
 turnips, and two onions. It should not 
 have any taste of sweet herbs, spice or gar^ • ," 
 lie J either of these flavors may be added ! • 
 afterward, if desired. Cover it close, set it 
 by the side of the fire, and let it simmer 
 very gently, so as not to waste the broth, 
 for four or five hours or more, according to 
 the weight of the meat. Strain it tlirough 
 a sieve into a clean and dry stone pan, and 
 set it in the coldest place you have. 
 
 |CU^ This is the foundation of all sorts 
 of soups and sauces, brown and white. 
 
 BROTH, CHICKEN. Take die re- 
 maining parts of a chicken firom which 
 panada has been made, all but the rump; 
 skin, and put them into the water it was 
 first boiled in, with the addition of a little 
 mace, onion, and a few pepper-corns, and 
 simmer it. When of a good flavor, put to 
 it a quarter of an ounce of s\Vfcet almonds 
 beaten with a spoonful of water ; boil it 
 a little while, and when cold, take off tlie 
 fat. 
 
 BROTH, CHICKEN PECTORAL,;' 
 
 Prepare a chicken in the usual way, and ; 
 put it into a saucepan with two pints and a 
 half of water, two ounces of pearl barley, 
 
BRO 
 
 28 
 
 BRO 
 
 ti» same of rice, and two ounces of the best 
 honey ; boil all together, skimming well for 
 three hours, until it be reduced to two-thirds. 
 
 BROTH, JELLY. Take a joint of mut- 
 ton, a capon, a fillet of veal, and three quarts 
 of water ; put these into an earthen pan, and 
 boil them over a gentle fii-e till reduced to 
 half; then squeeze all togedier, and strain 
 the liquor through a napkin. 
 
 BROTH, MUTTON. Take two pounds 
 of scrag of mutton; to take die blood out, 
 put it into a stewpan, and cover it with 
 cold water ; when the water becomes milk- 
 warm, pour it off; then put it in four or five 
 pints of water, with a tea-spoonful of salt, a 
 table-spoonful of best grits, and an onion ; set 
 it on a slow fire, and when you have taken 
 all the scum off, put in two or three turnips ; 
 let it simmer very slowly for two hours, and 
 strain it through a clean sieve. 
 
 BROTH, MUTTON, FOR THE SICK. 
 Have a pound and a half of a neck or loin 
 of mutton; take off the skin and the fat, and 
 put it into a saucepan ; cover it with cold 
 water, (it will talte about a quart to a pound 
 of meat), let it simmer veiy gently, and 
 skim it well ; cover it up, and set it over a 
 moderate fire, where it may stand gently 
 stewing for about an hour ; then strain it off. 
 It should be allowed to become cold, when 
 all tlie greasy particles will float on tiie sur- 
 fece, and becoming hard, can be easily 
 taken off, and the settlings will remain at 
 the bottom. N. B. — We direct the meat to 
 be done no more than just sufficiently to be 
 eaten ; so a sick man may have plenty of 
 good broth for nothing ; as by this manner 
 of producing it, the meat furnishes also a 
 good family meal. This is an inoffensive 
 nourishment for sick persons, and the only 
 mutton broth that should be given to conva- 
 lescents, whose constitutions require replen- 
 ishing with restorative aliment of easy di- 
 gestion. The common way of making it 
 with roots, onions, sweet herbs, &c. &c. is 
 too strong for weak stomachs. Plain broth 
 will agree with a delicate stomach, when 
 the least addition of other ingredients would 
 immediately offend it. 
 
 BROTH, MEAGRE, or Soup with 
 Herbs. Set on a kettle of water, put in 
 two or three crusts of bread, and all sorts of 
 good herbs ; season with salt ; put in buttei', 
 and a bunch of sweet herbs ; boil it for an 
 hour and a half: then strain it through a 
 sieve, or napkin. This will serve to make 
 l^tuce soup, asparagus soup, soup de sante, 
 &c. with herbs. 
 
 BROTH, MULLAGATAWNY, OR 
 
 CURRY. Make about two quarts of strong 
 veal broth, seasoned with two onions, a 
 bunch of parsley, salt and pepper ; strain it, 
 and have ready a chicken, cut in joints and 
 skinned ; put it into die broth, with a table- 
 spoonful of curry-powder ; boil tlie chicken 
 till quite tender, and a little before serving, 
 add the juice of a lemon, and stir in a tea- 
 cupful of cream. Serve boiled rice to eat 
 with this broth. 
 
 BROTH, RICE VEAL. Wash cleaij 
 six pounds of a knuckle of veal, and cut it 
 in two, put it in a saucepan with four quarts 
 of boiling water, half a pound of rice well 
 washed, a little mace, white pepper, and 
 salt, and a handful of chopped parsley ; let 
 it boil for two hours. Serve part of tlie 
 meat in the tureen with the broth. The 
 thick part of the knuckle may be sent up 
 as a separate dish, widi parsley and butter 
 poured over it. 
 
 BROTH, WHITE. Boil a fowl, and 
 when it is enough, take it up, and put it into 
 a dish ; then boil your cream with a blade of 
 mace, and thicken it with eggs ; then put in 
 the marrow of one beef bone, and take some 
 of the broth, and mingle diem together ; put to 
 it a spoonful of white wine, and let it thick- 
 en on the fire ; then put the fowl hot out of 
 the broth, set it on a chafing-disli of coals, 
 and serve it. 
 
 BROWN ROUX, OR THICKENING. 
 Put into a nicely tinned saucepan about a 
 pound of fresh butter, melt it slowly, and 
 dredge in flour till it becomes like a paste, 
 carefully stirring it all the time, put it for 
 a few minutes upon a quick fire, and then 
 return it to where there is less heat, and 
 stir it till it assumes a light brown color, 
 when it may be put into a jai-. These 
 thickenings keep for sometime. 
 
 BROWNING, Is a convenient article 
 to color those soups or sauces of which it is 
 supposed their deep brown complexion de- 
 notes die strength and savouriness of the 
 composition. Burned sugar is also a fe.- 
 vorite ingredient with the brewers, who use 
 it under the name of " essentia bina" to col- 
 or their beer : it is also employed by the bran- 
 dy makers, in considerable quantity, to color 
 brandy; to which, besides enriching its com- 
 plexion, it gives that sweetish taste, and ful- 
 ness in the mouth, which custom has taught 
 brandy drinkers to admire, and prefer to 
 the finest Cognac in its genuine state. When 
 employed for culinary purjioses, this is some- 
 times made with strong gravy, or walnut 
 catchup. Those who like a gout of acid 
 may add a little walnut pickle. Put half 
 a pound of pounded lump sugar, and a table> 
 
BUNS 
 
 29 
 
 BUNS 
 
 spoonful of water, into a clean iron sauce- ! 
 pan, set it over a slow fire, and keep stir- 
 ring it with a wooden spoon till it becomes : 
 a bright brown color, and begins to smoke ; j 
 then add to it an ounce of salt, and dilute it i 
 by degi-ees with water, till it is tlie thick- 
 ness of soy ; let it boil, take off the scum, 
 and strain the liquor into bottles, which 
 must be well stopi^ed : if you have not any 
 of this by you, and you wish to darken tlie 
 color of your sauces, pound a tea-spoonful 1 
 of lump sugar, and put it into an iron spoon ~ j 
 with as much water as will dissolve it; I 
 hold it over a quick fire till it becomes of a j 
 very dark brown color; mix it witli tlie 
 soup, &c. while it is hot. i 
 
 BRUNSWICK TART. See Tart. 
 
 BRUSSELS SPROUTS TO BOIL. 
 
 Trim and wash them peifectly clean, and 
 let them lie an hour in cold water. Put 
 them on in boiling water, with a little salt, 
 and boil them till tender. Di-ain off tlie 
 water, and sei"ve them hot. 
 
 BUBBLE AND SQUEAIC. Chop small 
 some boiled white cabbage ; season it with 
 f)epper and salt, and fry it witli a little butter ; | 
 pepper and broil some slices of cold boiled 
 salted beef; put the fried cabbage into a dish, I 
 and lay round it the slices of broiled beef, | 
 and serve it very hot. The beef does best i 
 when underdone. I 
 
 BUNS, BATH. Rub togetlier, with | 
 the hand, one pound of fine flour and a half | 
 a pound of butter; beat six eggs, and add 
 them to the flour with a table spoonful of good 
 yeast. Mix diem all together with half a tea- 
 cup full of milk ; set it in a warm place for 
 an hour ; mix in six ounces of sifted sugar, 
 and a few caraway seeds. Mould diem in- 
 to buns with a table spoon on a baking plate ; 
 throw six or eight cai-a way comfits on each, 
 and bake diem in a hot oven about ten min- 
 utes. These quantities should make eight- 
 een buns. 
 
 BUNS, COMMON. Rub four ounces of 
 butter into two pounds of flour, four ounces 
 of sugar, a few Jamaica peppers, and a few 
 can-away seeds. Put a spoonful or two of 
 cream into a cup of yeast, and as much good 
 milk as will make the above into a light 
 paste ; set it by the fire to rise. They will 
 bake quickly on tins ; you may add nutmeg. 
 
 BUNS, CROSS. To the above mix- 
 ture put one ounce and a half of ground all- 
 spice, cinnamon and mace, mixed, and when 
 half proved, press the form of a cross with 
 a tin mould in the centre, and finish as 
 above. 
 
 3* 
 
 BUNS, PLUM. To two pounds of the 
 plain bun paste, put half a pound of currants, 
 a quarter of a pound of candied orange- 
 peel, cut into small pieces, lialf a nutmeg 
 grated, half an ounce of mixed spice, such 
 as allspice, cinnamon, &c. Mould them in- 
 to buns, jag diem round die edges with a 
 knife, and proceed as above. 
 
 BUNS, PLAIN. To four pounds of sift- 
 ed flour put one pound of good moist sugar; 
 make a cavity in the centre, and stir in a 
 gill of good yeast, a pint of lukewarm milk, 
 with enough of the flour to make it die thick- 
 ness of cream ; cover it over, and let it lie 
 two hours ; then melt to an oil (but not hot) 
 one pound of butter, stir it into tlie other in- 
 gredients, with enough warm milk to make 
 it a soft paste ; throw a litlte flour over, and 
 let diem lie an hour; have ready a baking- 
 platter rubbed over with butter ; mould with 
 the hand the dough into buns, about the 
 size of a large egg ; lay them in rows fUl 
 three inches apart ; set them in a Avann place 
 for half an hour, or till they have risen to 
 double their size ; bake them in a hot oven 
 of a good color, and wash them over with 
 a brash dipped into milk when drawn from 
 the oven. 
 
 BUNS , RICHER. Put four pounds of 
 fine flour into a wooden bowl ; set a sponge 
 of it with a gill of yeast and a pint of 
 warm milk ; then mix with it one pound of 
 sifted sugar, one pound of oiled fresh butter, 
 coriander seeds, cinnamon, and mace, a small 
 quantity of each, poimded fine. Roll the 
 paste into buns, set them on a baking-plate 
 rubbed widi butter, put them in a moderate 
 oven to prove ; then wash them with a paste- 
 brush dipped in warm milk, and bake of a 
 good color. 
 
 BUNS, SCOTS CHRISTMAS. Take 
 
 four pounds of raisins stoned, two and a half 
 of currants well cleaned and dried, half a 
 pound of almonds blanched, of candied orange 
 and lemon-peel a quarter of a pound each, 
 cut small ; of pounded cloves, pepper, and 
 ginger, half an ounce each, four pounds of 
 flour, and twenty-two ounces of butter. 
 Then rub the butter with the flour, till well 
 mixed together; add a little warm vrater, 
 and a quarter of a pint of fresh good yeast, 
 and work it into a light smoodi paste; cut 
 off nearly one-third of the paste, to form the 
 sheet or case, and lay it aside; with the rest 
 work up the fruit, sweetmeats, and spices; 
 make it into a round form like a thick cheese. 
 Roll out the sheet of paste, lay the bun in the 
 centre, and gather it all round, closing it at 
 die bottom, by wetting the edges of the paste, 
 and cuttnig it so as to lie quite flat. Turn 
 it up, and run a wire or small skewer through 
 
BUT 
 
 30 
 
 BtT 
 
 from the top to the bottom every here and 
 there, and prick the top witli a fork. Dou- 
 ble and flour a sheet of gray paper, and lay 
 the bun upon it ; bind a piece round tlie 
 sides, also doubled and floui-ed, to keep the 
 bun in a proper shape. Bake it in a mod- 
 erate oven. 
 
 BUNS, SEED. Take two pounds of 
 plain bun dough, and mix in one ounce of 
 cai*away seeds, butter the insides of tart- 
 pans, mould the dough into buns, and put 
 one into each pan; set them to rise in a 
 warm placej and when sufficiently proved, 
 ice them witli tlie white of an egg beat to a 
 fijoth, lay some pounded sugar over that, and 
 dissolve it with water splashed from the 
 icing-brush. Bake ten minutes. 
 
 BURDWAN STEW. Cut into joints a 
 cold fowl or duck, put it into a stewpan, 
 with half a pint of gravy, a large wine-glass 
 of ale, half a one of white wine, the juice 
 erf" half a lemon, a tea-spoonful of soy and 
 Cayenne ; of mushroom catsup, lemon pickle, 
 cucumber vinegar, coi-ach escavecke, a des- 
 sert-spoonful each. Heat all tlioroughly be- 
 fore serving. 
 
 BUTTER BURNT. Put two ounces of 
 fresh butter into a small frjing-pan ; when it 
 becomes a dark brown color, add to it a 
 teble-spoonful and a half of good vinegar, 
 and a little pepper and saU. Obs. — This is 
 used as sauce for boiled fish or poached 
 eggs. 
 
 BURNET VINEGAR. See Vinegar. 
 
 BUTTER BISCUITS. See Biscuits. 
 
 BUTTER CAKES. See Cakes. 
 
 BUTTER, CLARIFIED. Put Uie butter 
 in a nice, clean stewpan, over a very clear, 
 slow fire; watch it, and when it is melted, 
 carefully skim off the buttermilk, &c. which 
 will swim on the top ; let it stand a minute 
 or two for the impurities to sink to the bot- 
 tom; then pour the clear butter through a 
 sieve into a clean basin, leaving the sediment 
 at tlie bottom of the stewpan. 06s. — But- 
 ter tlius purified will be as sweet as marrow, 
 a very useful covering for otted meats, &c. 
 and for frying fish equal to the finest Florence 
 oil; for which purpose it is conmionly used 
 by Catholics, and those whose religious ten- 
 ets will not allow them to eat vian& fried in 
 animal oil. 
 
 BUTTER, FRENCH MELTED. Mix, 
 in a stewpan, with a quarter of a pound of 
 fresh butter, a table-spoonful of flotrr, a little 
 salt, half a gill of water, half a spoonful of 
 
 white vinegar, and a little grated nutmeg'^ 
 Put it on the fire, stir it, and let it thicken, 
 but do not allow it to boil, lest it should taste 
 of the flour. 
 I 
 
 BUTTER, MELTED. (1) Dust a little 
 flour over a quarter of a pound of butter, put 
 it into a saucepan, widi about a wine-glass 
 of water ; stir it one way constantly till it be 
 melted, and let it just boil : a round wooden 
 stick, is tlie best thing to stir butter with in 
 melting. If tlie butter is to be melted with 
 cream, use the same proportion as of water, 
 but no flour ; stir it constantly, and heat it 
 thoroughly, but do not let it boil. To oil 
 butter, cut about a (juarter of a pound into 
 slices, put it into a small jar, and place it in 
 a pan of boiling water. When oiled, pour 
 it ofi" clear from tlie sediment. 
 
 I BUTTER, MELTED, (2) Is so simple 
 I and easy to prepare, tliat it is a matter of 
 general surprise, that what is done so often, 
 is so seldom done right. It is spoiled nine 
 times out of ten, more from idleness than from 
 ignorance, and rather because tlie cook won't 
 than because she can't do it ; which can on- 
 ly be the case wlien housekeepers will not 
 allow butter to do it with. Good melted 
 butter cannot be made with mere flour and 
 water ; there must be a full and proper pro- 
 portion of butter. As it must be always on 
 the table, and is tlie foundation of almost all 
 our sauces, we have. 
 
 Melted butter and oystere, 
 
 parsley, 
 
 anchovies, 
 
 eggs, 
 
 shrimps, 
 
 lobsters, 
 
 — capers, &c. &c. &c. 
 
 I have tried every way of making it; and I 
 trust, diat I have written a receipt, (3) 
 which, if die cook will carefully observe, 
 she will constantly succeed in giving satis- 
 faction. Ill the (juantities of the various 
 sauces I have ordered, I have had in view 
 the providing for a family of half a dozen 
 moderate jxjople. Never pour sauce o\ cr meat 
 or even put it into the dish; however well 
 made, some of tlie company may have an 
 antipathy to it; tastes are as different as 
 faces: moreover, if it is sent up separate in a 
 boat, it will keep hot longer, and what is left 
 may be put l>y for anodier time, or used for 
 anodier purjjose. 
 
 BUTTER, MELTED. (3) Keep a pint 
 stewpan ; for this pur|)ose only. Cut two 
 ounces of butter into little bits, that it may 
 melt more easily, and mix more readily; put 
 it into die stewpan with a large tea-spoon- 
 ful (i. e. about three drachms) of flour, 
 (some prefer arrow-root, or potato search) 
 
CAB 
 
 31 
 
 CAKE 
 
 and two table-spoonfuls of milk. When 
 thoroughly mixed, add six table-spoonfuls 
 of water ; hold it over the fire, and shake it 
 round every minute (all the while the same 
 •way), till it just begins to simmer; then let 
 it stand quietly and boil up. It should be of 
 the tliickness of good cream. N. B. — Two 
 lable-spoonfuls of mushroom catchup, instead 
 of the milk, will make as good niashroom 
 sauce as need be, and is a superlative accom- 
 paniment to eithei- fish, flesh, or fowl. 
 Obs. — This is the best way of preparing 
 melted butter; milk mixes with the butter 
 much more easily and more intimately than 
 water alone can be made to do. This is 
 of proper thickness to be mixed at table 
 with flavouring essences, anchovy, nnish- 
 room, or cavice, &c. If made merely to 
 pour over vegetables, add a little more milk 
 to it. N. B. — If the butter oils, i)ut a 
 spoonful of cold water to it, and stir it with 
 a spoon ; if it is veiy much oiled, it must 
 be poured backwards and forwards fi-om 
 tlie stewpan to the sauceboat till it is right 
 again. Mem. — Melted butter made to te 
 mixed with flavouring essences, catchups, 
 &c. should be of the thickness of light bat- 
 ter, that it may adlierc to the fish, &c. 
 
 BUTTER, OILED. Put two ounces of 
 firesh butter into a saucepan ; set it at a dis- 
 tance from the fire, so that it may melt grad- 
 ually, till it comes to an oil ; and poiu* it off 
 quietly from the dregs. 06s. — This will 
 supply the place of olive oil ; and by some is 
 preferred to it either for salads or frying. 
 
 BUTTER SAUCE. See Sauce. 
 
 C. 
 
 CABBAGE AND CHEESE SOUP. 
 See Soup. 
 
 CABBAGE, TO STEW. Wash a cab- 
 bage well, sli«;e it as for pickling, and pul it 
 into a stewpan, with half a tea-cnpful of 
 Port wine, and a bit of butter kneaded in 
 flour, a little salt and pepper; stir it till the 
 butter is melted ; cover tlie pan, and let it stew 
 a little, but not to become too soft ; as it eats 
 better rather crisp ; add a table-spoonful of 
 vinegar, give it one boil, and serve it hot. 
 The wine may be omitted. 
 
 CABBAGE, TO PICKLE. Choose two 
 middling-sized, well-colored, and firm red 
 cabbages, shred them very finely, first pulling 
 oflf ti»e outside leaves ; mix with them nearly 
 half a pound of salt, tie it up in a thin cloth, 
 and let it hang for twelve hours ; then put it 
 into small jars, and pour over it cold vinegar 
 
 that has been boiled widi a few barberries m 
 it ; tie the jar over closely with bladder ; or 
 boil, in a quart of vinegar, tliree bits of gin- 
 ger, lialf an ounce of pepper, and a quarter of 
 an ounce of cloves. When cold, pour it ovar 
 the red cabbage. 
 
 CAKES. Preparatory remarks. 
 The cm-rants and raisins should be prepared 
 as directed under the article headed. Pud- 
 dings and Pies, and the flour dried before 
 the fire on a large sheet of white paper, then 
 sifted and weighed. Almonds sliould be 
 blanched by pouring hot water over them, 
 and, after standing some minutes, taking off 
 the skin, then throwing them into rose or 
 cold water. When not pounded, they should 
 lie cut lengthwise into tliin bits. Sugar 
 sliould be roughly pounded, rolled widi a 
 bottle upf)n white paper, and then sifted. All 
 spices, after being well dried at the fire, should 
 be finely pounded and sifted. Lemon and 
 orange-peel must be pared very tliin, and 
 pounded with a little sugar. The butter, 
 after being weighed, should be laid into cold 
 water, or washed in rose water, and if salt, 
 be well washed in several waters. The 
 yolks and whites of eggs should be separately 
 and long beaten, then strained; two whiska 
 should be kept exclusively for that pur- 
 pose, as the whites especially require to be 
 managed with the greatest care. A horn 
 spoon should be used for mixing those cakes 
 which are not directed to be beaten with tlie 
 hand. To make cakes light, salvolatile, or 
 smelling salts, may be added immediately 
 before putting them into the oven, allowing, 
 to a sponge cake, made of one pound of flour, 
 one tea-spoonful ; and two or three to a large 
 plum cake. Cheese cakes, queen cakeg, 
 sponge biscuits, and small sponge cakes, re- 
 quire a quick oven till they have risen ; after- 
 wards the heat shouki be more modei-ate. 
 Plum, seed cakes, and all large kinds, must be 
 well soaked, and therefore do not recjuire a 
 brisk oven. To preserve their color, a sheet of 
 white paper is put over them, and after they 
 ha\e risen and become firm, they ai'e turned 
 round. To ascertain if a large cake be 
 siiifi(^iently done, a broad bladed knife is 
 plunged into the centre of it, and if dry and 
 clean when drawn out, the cake is baked ; 
 but if anything adheres to the blade, it must 
 instantly be returned to the oven, and thq 
 door closed. When the oven is too hot, it 
 is better to lessen tiie fire than to open the 
 door. 
 
 CAKE. Take two pounds and a half of 
 dried and sifted flour, die same of well clean- 
 ed and dried currants, two pounds of fresh 
 butter, two of finely-pounded and sifted loaf 
 sugar, a nutmeg giated, a tea-spoonful of 
 pouncied cinnamon, one ounce of citron and 
 
CAKE 
 
 32 
 
 CAKE 
 
 candied orange-peel, cut small, the yolks of 
 sixteen, and the whites of ten eggs, beaten 
 separately; then with the hand beat the 
 butter to a cream, and add the sugai-, tlien 
 the eggs by degrees, and the flour in tlie 
 same way, and then the currants, sweetmeats, 
 and spice, one glass of oi^ange-flower water, 
 and one of brandy. Butler a tin pan, line it 
 with white paper buttered, put in die cake, 
 and bake it in a moderate oven four hours. 
 
 CAKE, ALMOND. Blanch half a pound 
 of sweet, and three ounces of bitter almonds ; 
 pound them to a paste in a mortal' witii 
 orange-flower water ; add lialf a pound of 
 sifted loaf sugjir, and a little brandy; whisk 
 separately, for half an hour, tlie whites and 
 yolks of twenty eggs, add the yolks to tlie 
 almonds and sugar, and tlicn stir in tlie whites, 
 and beat them all well together. Butter a 
 tin pan, sift bread raspings over it, put the 
 cake into it, over the top of which strew sifted 
 loaf sugar. Bake it in a quick oven for 
 half or tliree-fjuarters of an hour. 
 
 CAKES, ALMOND SMALL. One 
 
 pound of butter beaten to a cream, half a 
 pound of finely-pounded and sifted loaf sugar, 
 half a pound of dried and sifted flour, and 
 the same quantity of blanched sweet almonds 
 cut into thin small bits, one well-l)eaten egg, 
 and a little rose water, must be mixed well 
 together, and with a spoon dropped upon 
 wafer paper or tias, and then baked. 
 
 CAKE, ALMOND. (1) Take eight 
 ounces of Jordan and one ounce of bitter al- 
 monds, blanch and pound tliem vei-y fine ; 
 tlien beat in with die almonds die yolks of 
 eight eggs, and whisk up the whites to a 
 solid frodi. Then take eight table-spoonfuls 
 of sifted sugar, five spoonfuls of fine flour, a 
 small cjuantity of grated lemon-peel and 
 pounded cinnamon, and mix all tlie ingre- 
 dients. Rub the inside of a mould with 
 fresh butter, fill it with tiie mixture and hnke 
 it of a light color. 
 
 CAKE, ALMOND. (2) Put a gill of 
 floiu- upon a pie-board, and make a hole 
 in the middle to receive a piece of butter the 
 size of ftii egg, a little salt, a quarter of a 
 pound of fine sugar, and six ounces of sweet 
 almonds pounded veiy fine : knead die whole, 
 and form it into a cake ; bake, and glaze it 
 with sugar and a hot salamander. 
 
 CAKE, ALMOND. (3) Weigh tiiree 
 eggs in their shells, take tlie same weight of 
 flour, of the finest fresh butter, and of grated 
 loaf sugar. Pound with these ingredients 
 three ounces of sweet almonds blanched ; add 
 a little grated lemon-jieel, or orange-flower 
 water, and die whites and yolks of tiiree 
 
 [ eggs. Continue pounding till the whole 
 forms a smooth paste. Butter Uie bottom 
 of a baking-pan, and put in the cake with 
 fii-e above and below. This cake may be 
 served eidier hot or cold, with grated sugar 
 over it. 
 
 CAKES, ANISEED. Put in an earthen 
 pan eight ounces of sugar pounded, and 
 the yolks often eggs ; stir them togetuer with 
 a wooden spoon for half an hour. In the 
 meantime have the whites of your eggs 
 whipped to a diick snow, and then pour in 
 the sugar and yolks. When thur<jughly 
 mixed, add an ounce of good aniseed, pre- 
 viously washed and dried, and ten ounces of 
 flour ; stir die whole gently, and then with a 
 spoon lay it on white paper in cakes about 
 die size of a crown-piece ; sprinkle them with 
 fine sugar, and bake. Remove them from 
 die paper, while hot, with a knife. 
 
 CAKE, APPLE. Pare and core a doz- 
 en apples, and make diem into marmalade, 
 with the zeste of a lemon and a little cinna- 
 mon, and pass diem through a bolting; put 
 them into a stewpan, with a spoonful of 
 potato flour, half a pound of sugar, and two 
 ounces of butter ; diy it over the fire, and 
 when cold add to it six eggs, stir them well 
 in, and having buttered a mould, pour your 
 preparation into it, and bake it in a slow 
 oven; when done, turn it in a dish and 
 serve it. 
 
 CAKE, ABERDEEN CRULLA. Beat 
 to a cream a quarter of a pound of flesh butter, 
 and mix with it die same quantity of pound- 
 ed and sifted loaf sugar, and four well-beaten 
 eggs ; add flour till diick enough to roll out ; 
 cut the paste into oblong pieces alx)ut four 
 or five inches in lengdi ; with a jjaste cutter, 
 divide the centre into three or four strips; 
 wet the edges, and plait one bar over the 
 other, 80 as to meet in die centre ; dirow 
 them into boiling lard, or clarified suet; 
 when fried of a light brown, drain them 
 before the fire, and serve diem in a najikin, 
 with or without grated loaf sug-ar strewed 
 over diem. 
 
 CAKE, BANBURY. Set a sponge with 
 two table-spoonftils of thick yeast, a gill of 
 warm milk, and a pound of flour ; when it 
 has worked a little, mix with it half a pound 
 of currants, washed and picked, half a 
 pound of candied orange and lemon peel cut 
 small, one ounce of spice, such as ground 
 cinnamon, allspice, ginger, and grated nut- 
 meg: mix the whole togedier Vvith half a 
 })ound of honey ; roll out puff" paste a quarter 
 of an inch thick, cut it into rounds with ai 
 cutter, about four inches over, lay on each 
 widi a spoon a sm^ill quantity of die mixture;.! 
 
CAKE 
 
 33 
 
 CAKE 
 
 close it round with the fingers in the form 
 of an oval ; place the join underneath ; press 
 it flat with the hand ; sift sugar over it, and 
 bake them on a plate a quarter of an hour. 
 
 CAKES, BATH BREAKFAST. Rub 
 into two pounds of flour half a pound of but- 
 ter, and mix with it one pint of milk a little 
 warmed, a quarter of a pint of fi-esh yeast, 
 four well-beaten eggs, and a tea-spoonful of 
 salt ; cover it, and let it stand before the fire 
 to rise for three-quarters of an hour ; make 
 it into thick cakes about the size of the 
 inside of a dinner plate ; bake them in a 
 quick oven, then cut them into three, that 
 the middle slice, as also the top and bottom 
 may be well buttered. Serve them very hot. 
 
 CAKE, BAIRN BRACK. To three 
 pounds of dried flour allow one pound of 
 firesh butter, one pound of good brown sugar, 
 two ounces of caraway seeds, eight well- 
 beaten eggs, three table-spoonfiils of fresh 
 yeast, and some grated nutmeg ; dissolve the 
 butter in a pint of milk, so as to make tlie 
 whole into a dough, not very stiff"; work it 
 well ; cover it with a cloth, and set it before 
 the fire to rise ; when well risen, bake it in 
 a buttered tin. When it becomes dry, it 
 may be toasted and eaten with butter. 
 
 , CAKES, BONNET. BoU in half a 
 pint of water, for ten minutes, a bit of cin- 
 namon, and of lemon-peel ; strain, and mix it 
 with tlu-ee table-spoonflils of flour, and stir 
 it over the fire for two or three minutes ; add 
 a bit of butter the size of a wakut ; when 
 cold, mix in the beaten yolks of two eggs, a 
 little salt and pepper ; beat it well, drop a 
 dessert-spoonfiil of the mixture into boiling 
 lard, tlien drain tliem upon tlie back of a 
 sieve, and when served, throw over pounded 
 loaf sugar. Instead of the salt and pepper, a 
 littJe preserve may be drooped upon each, 
 before die sugar is tlu-own over. 
 
 CAKE, BABA. Take the fourth part of 
 two pounds of flour, lay it on your paste- 
 board or slab, and having made a hole in 
 the middle of it, put in half an ounce of 
 yeast, work it up with one hand, whilst with 
 the otlier you pour in warm water ; make it 
 into a rather soft paste, put into a wooden 
 bowl, first pricking it in a few places, cover 
 it with a cloth and let it stand. When it 
 has risen well, take the remainder of the 
 flour, and spread it on the fiist made paste ; 
 mix them well together, adding to them 
 half an ounce of salt, six eggs, a pound of 
 fresh butter, half a pound of stoned raisins, 
 two ounces of currants, half a glass of Mal- 
 Bsa. wine, and a little saffron in powder. 
 Work them up together thoroughly, roll it 
 out two or three times, and then let it stand 
 
 for six hours; then having buttered a mould} 
 pour in your preparation and bake it. 
 
 CAKE, BOLAR. One pound of flour 
 dried in a slow oven, two spoonfiils of yeast, 
 some ahnond milk, and water to mix for a 
 sponge ; when raised, beat up three-quarters 
 of a pound of clarified butter, three eggs, and 
 three-quarters of a pound of sugar, well-beat- 
 en till the spoon comes clean away ; then 
 add cinnamon powder, candied orange and 
 lemon. Bake in earthen basins, well but- 
 tered ; keep it before the fire till put in the 
 oven. 
 
 CAKE, BOLAR. When tlie sponge is 
 beat, as for the last, instead of mixing the 
 sugar, it is rolled in the sugai' and cinnamon. 
 
 CAKE, DUTCH BOLAR. Done, as 
 above, without sugar ; then prick holes with 
 a sharp pointed knife, and while it is hot 
 pour in tlire^quarters of a pound of clarified 
 sugar, flavored with cinnamon or orange- 
 flower. Almonds and sweetmeats are pre- 
 viously put in the cake. Ornament your 
 cake with harlequin sugar-plums. This wa» 
 a fevorite cake of Queen Charlotte. 
 
 CAKE, BREAD. Take the quantity 
 of a quartern loaf fi-om the dough when mak- 
 ing white bread, and knead well into it two 
 ounces of butter, two of Lisbon sugar, and 
 eight of currants. Warm the butter in a 
 tea-cupful of good milk. By the addition 
 of an ounce of batter, or sugar, or an egg or 
 two, you may make the cake better. A 
 tea-cupfiil of raw cream improves it much.. 
 It is best to bake it in a pan, rather than as- 
 a loaf, die outside being less hard. 
 
 CAKE, BRIDE. Take four pounds of 
 fine flour well di'ied, four pounds of fresh 
 butter, two pounds of loaf sugar,, pwunded 
 and sifted fine, a quarter of an ounce of 
 mace, and the same quantity of nutmegs ; 
 to every pound of flour put eight eggs ; wash 
 and pick four jwunds of cuiTants, and dry 
 them before the fii*e; blanch a pound of 
 sweet almonds, and cut them lengdiways, 
 very thin, a pound of citron, a pound of 
 candied orange, a pound of candied lemon, 
 and half a pint of brandy ; &st work the 
 butter with your hand to a* cream, then 
 beat in your sugar a quarter of an hour; 
 beat the whites of your eggs to a very strong 
 froth ; mix them with yoiur sugar and but- 
 ter ; beat the yolks half an hour, at least, 
 and mix tiiem with your cake ; then put in 
 your flour, mace, and nutm^; keep beating 
 It till the oven is i-eady ; put in your brandy, 
 and beat the currants and almonds lightly 
 in ; tie Uiree sheets of paper round the bot- 
 tom of your hoops to keep it fi'om running 
 
CAKE 
 
 34 
 
 CAKE 
 
 out ; rub it well with butter, put in your 
 cake, and the sweetmeats in tliree lays, with 
 cake Ijetween every lay; after it is risen 
 and colored, cover it with paper before your 
 oven is stopped up ; it will take tlu-ee hours 
 baking. 
 
 CAKE, BRIE. Take some rich cheese, 
 knead it with a pint and half of flour, three 
 quartere of a pound of butter, and a little 
 salt ; moisten it with five or six eggs beaten 
 up; when it is well kneaded, let it stand 
 for an hour ; tlien form your cake and bake 
 as usual. 
 
 CAKES, BENTON-TEA. Rub into 
 a pound of flour, six ounces of butter, and 
 three sjwonfuls of yeast, and make into a 
 paste with new milk; make into biscuits, 
 and prick them with a clean fork. 
 
 CAKES, BUTTER. Beat a dish of 
 butter with your hands to a cream, add two 
 pounds of sifted sugar, tliree pounds of dried 
 flour, and twenty-four eggs, leave out half 
 the whites, and then l)eat all together for an 
 hour; when you are going to put it in the 
 oven add a qudrter of an ounce of mace and 
 a nutmeg, a little sack and brandy, seeds 
 and currants, if you think proper. 
 
 CAKE, WITHOUT BUTTER. Talte 
 the weight of three eggs in sugar, and the 
 weight of two in flour; whentlie five eggs are 
 well beaten, gradually add the sugai-, and 
 then the flour, with a little grated lemon- 
 peel, or a few caraway seeds. Bake it in 
 a tin mould, in rather a quick oven. 
 
 CAKES, CHESHIRE. Beat for half 
 an hour tlie yolks of eight, and the whites 
 of five eggs ; add half a pound of ix)unded 
 and sifted loaf sugar, a quarter of a pound 
 of dried and sifted flour, and the grated 
 peel of a small lemon ; beat all well togeth- 
 er, and bake it in a floured tin. 
 
 •CAKES, CARAWAY. (1) Tliree 
 quarters of a pound of flour, half a pound of 
 butter well rubbed into it, a quarter of a 
 pound of sifted loaf sugar, and some caraway 
 seeds ; make tliese into a stiff" paste widi a 
 little cold water, roll it out two or thi-ee 
 times, cut it Into round cakes, prick them, 
 and bake them upon floured tins. For a 
 change, currants may be substituted for the 
 caraway seeds. 
 
 CAKES, CARAWAY. (2) Mix half 
 a pound of sifted loaf sugar with a pound 
 of flour and a quarter of a pound of butter, 
 add some caraway seeds ; make it into a 
 stiff" paste, with three well-beaten eggs, and 
 a litOe rose water; roll it out thin, cut it 
 
 into round cakes, prick them with a fork, 
 and bake them upon floured tins in a quick 
 oven. 
 
 CAKES, CURD CHEESE. Boil, in 
 two quarts of cream, the well-beaten yolks 
 of four, and the whites of five eggs ; di'ain 
 oft" tlie whey gently, and mix wiUi tlie curd 
 grated nutmeg, pounded cinnamon, three 
 table-spoonfuls of best rose water, as much 
 white wine, four ounces of pounded loaf su- 
 gar, tlie same quantity of butter beaten to a 
 cream, and of pounded biscuit. Mix aU 
 these ingredients well together, and stir in 
 a quarter of a pound of currants. Bake it 
 in a large tm, or in patty-pans lined with 
 paste; or it may be baked m a dish previ- 
 ously buttered. 
 
 CAKES, CURRANT. (1) Take 
 two pounds of fine flour, one pound and a 
 half of butter, the yolks of five or six eggs, 
 one pound and a half of sugar, six spoonfiils 
 of white wine, tiiree spoonfuls of caraway 
 seeds, two nutmegs, and one pound of cur- 
 rants ; beat up the butter wiUi your hand 
 till it is veiy thin ; diy tlie flour well ; put in 
 the caraway seeds, and nutmegs, finely grat- 
 ed ; afterwards put tiiem all into your bat- 
 ter, widi the eggs, white wine, and rose 
 water; mingle them well together; put in 
 tlie currants ; let your oven be pretty hot, 
 and as soon as tliey are colored they will be 
 sufficiently done. 
 
 CAKES, CURRANT. (2) Take half a 
 pound of cleaned and dried currants, the 
 same quantity of dried and sifted flour, a 
 quarter of a pound of pounded sugar, a 
 quarter of a pound of fi-esh butter, four 
 yolks, and three whites of eggs, both well 
 beaten, and a little grated nutmeg or pound- 
 ed cinnamon; then beat the butter to a 
 cream ; add the sugar, and Uien the eggs 
 and the flour; beat these well for twenty 
 minutes, mij^ in the currants and the grated 
 nutmeg. Drop the cakes in a round form 
 upon buttered paper, or bake them in small 
 tins in a quick oven. 
 
 CAKES, CURRANT. (3) Take six 
 ounces of currants, the same quantity of 
 pounded loaf sugar, a little grated nutmeg, 
 half a pound of butter, and three-quarters 
 of a pound of dried and sifted flour ; rub the 
 butter with the flour till they be well mixed, 
 then add the other ingredients, and bind 
 tliem with three beaten yolks of eggs, and 
 two or three spoonfuls of ro^ or orange- 
 flower water; roll it out, and cut it into 
 round cakes with the top of a wme glass or 
 a tin. 
 
 CAKE, COMMON. (1) Take two 
 
CAKE 
 
 35 
 
 CAKE 
 
 quarts of flour, mix with it tliree-quarters 
 of a pound of butter, a tea-cupful of fresh 
 yeast, one pint of milk, nine well-beaten 
 eggs, two pounds of well-cleaned currants, 
 one pound and a half of good brown sugar, 
 the grated peel of a lemon, and one nutmeg ; 
 a glass of brandy must be stirred in just be- 
 fore it be put into a buttered tin. Bake it 
 for two hours or more. 
 
 CAKE, COMMON. (2) Rub into one 
 pound of flour a quarter of a pound of 
 good Ixitter; mix, with two well-beaten 
 eggs, and a table-spoonful of fresh yeast, as 
 much warm milk as will make tlie flour into 
 a very thick batter. Let this remain near 
 the fire, covered with a cloth for an hour, 
 tlien mix into it six ounces of good brown 
 sugar, and nine ounces of well-cleaned and 
 dried currants ; let it stand again for half 
 an hour, and bake it in a buttered tin for 
 an hour. 
 
 CAKE, COxMMON. (3) One pound and 
 a half of flour, one pound of good brown su- 
 gar, eight well-beaten eggs, and one ounce 
 of caraway seeds, are to be mixed together; 
 then add of fresh yeast, milk, and of water, 
 one table-spoonful each. Let it stand a lit- 
 tle time, and bake it in a floured tin. 
 
 CAKES, COLD HARBOR. Dissolve 
 one ounce of butter in as much milk warmed 
 as will make four pounds of flour into a stiff" 
 paste; about two pints may be required; 
 add half a tea-spoonful of salt, one egg 
 beaten togetlier with a table-spoonful of 
 yeast; mix it all well, cover it with a 
 clotli, and let it remain before the fii-e for 
 half an hour; then make it into small 
 round balls, and bake them upon tins in a 
 quick oven. 
 
 CAKES, CREAM. (1) Put a pound of 
 flour upon a pie-board ; make a hole in the 
 middle, put in half a pint of clotted cream, 
 and a little salt ; mix the paste lightly, let 
 it stand for half an hour, then add half a 
 pound of butter ; roll it out, five times, the 
 same as puff paste, and form it into small 
 cakes ; gild them with the yolk of egg, and 
 balve in an oven. 
 
 CAKES, CREAM. (2) Sift some 
 double-refined sugar; beat the whites of 
 seven or eight eggs; shake in as many 
 spoonfuls of the sugar; grate in the rind of 
 a large lemon ; drop the froth on a paper, 
 laid on tin, in lumps at a distance; sift a 
 good deal of sugar over them ; set tliem in a 
 moderate oven; the froth will rise; just 
 color them; you may put raspberry jam, 
 and stick two bottoms together ; put them 
 in a cool oven to di'y . 
 
 CAKES, CREAM. (3) Put into a 
 stewpan, two glasses of cream, a quarter of 
 a pound of butter, the rind of a lemony cut 
 small, a quarter of a pound of powder-sugar, 
 and a pinch of salt. Set it on the fire, and 
 when it begins to boil, put it by the side of 
 the stove ; take out tlie lemon-peel, and add, 
 by degrees, as much flour as tlie liquid will 
 bear ; keep stirring it constantly, and place 
 it on die fire again, for five minutes, tlien 
 pour it into a basin ; add to it, one by one, 
 as many eggs as will make the paste stick 
 to the fingers ; put the paste on a slab, and 
 make your cakes of a round form. 
 
 CAKES, CANAPES. Roll out three- 
 quarters of a pound of puff" paste, keeping it 
 long and narrow ; do not let it be more than 
 a quarter of an inch thick, and about three 
 inches wide. Cut the paste across with a 
 sharp knife, in slips three-eights of an inch 
 in width, and place them on the cut side, on 
 a baking-plate, each two inches apart ; bake 
 them in a hot oven, and when nicely colored, 
 sprinkle them with sugar, and glaze them. 
 When done, remove them from the plate; 
 and just before they are served, mask them 
 with apricot marmalade, or any other you 
 
 like better, and an'ange tiiem on your 
 
 en couronne. 
 
 may 
 dish 
 
 CAKES, CURD. Take a quart of 
 curds, eight eggs, leaving out foiu- w hites ; 
 put in sugar, grated nutmeg, and a little 
 flour; mix these well togetner, heat butter, 
 in a frying-pan, drop them in, and fiy like 
 fritters. 
 
 CAKES, DERBY OR SHORT. Rub 
 
 in with the hand one pound of butter into 
 two poiuids of sifted flour; put one pound 
 of currants, one pound of good moist sugar, 
 and one egg; mix all together widi half 
 a pint of milk: roll it out thin, and cut them 
 into round cakes with a cutter ; lay them on 
 a clean baking-plate, and put tliem into a 
 middling-heated oven for about five minutes. 
 
 CAKE, DIET BREAD. Boil, in half 
 a pint of water, one pound and a half of 
 lump sugar ; have ready one pint of eggs, 
 tlu-ee paits yolks, in a pan ; pour in die su- 
 gar, and whisk it quick till cold, or about 
 a quarter of an hour; dien stu* in two 
 pounds of sifl;ed flour; case the inside of 
 square tins with white paper ; fill them three 
 parts full ; sift a little sugar over, and bake 
 it in a warm oven, and while hot remove 
 tliem from the moulds. 
 
 CAKE, DAtJPHINE. Beat separate- 
 ly the whites and yolks of twenty eggs ; to 
 the yolks add a pound of pounded and sifl«d 
 loaf sugar, the gi-ated peel of one lemon, and 
 
CAKE 
 
 36 
 
 CAKE 
 
 two or three table-spoonfuls of orange-flower 
 water ; then stir in the whites, and lightly 
 mix in half a pound of dried and sifted flour. 
 Bake it in a moderate oven. 
 
 CAKE, FASHION. Mix a handful of 
 flour with a pint of good cream, half a pound 
 of beef suet, melted and sifted, a quarter of 
 a pound of powder-sugar, half a pwund of 
 raisins, stoned and chopped, dried flowers of 
 orange, a glass of brandy, a little coriander, 
 and salt ; bake it as all otl)er cakes, about an 
 houi-, and glare or gai-nish it. 
 
 CAKE, FOURRES. Make a puff paste, 
 form it into two equal parts the size of the 
 dish in which you mean to place your cake, 
 and the thickness of two crowns each; then 
 take one of the cakes and put upon it some 
 sweetmeats, leaving about an inch, as a 
 border, all round; wet it with water and 
 place the otlier cake upon it, draw up the 
 edges carefully with your fingers ; gild them 
 with the yolk of egg, and bake tliem in an 
 oven. 
 
 CAKE, FRENCH. Twelve eggs, the 
 yolks and whites beaten well and separately, 
 one pound of pounded and sifted loaf sugar, 
 the grated peel of a large lemon, half a pound 
 of sifted and dried flour, the same weight of 
 sifted and dried ground rice, four ounces of 
 sweet, and one of bitter almonds, pounded in 
 a mortar together, with a table-spoonful of 
 orange-flower water. Mix all these ingre- 
 dients gradually, and beat them well. Pa- 
 per the pan, and bake the cake for one hour. 
 
 CAKE, FAMILY. Take rice and 
 flour, of each six ounces, tiie yolks and 
 whites of nine eggs, half a pound of lump 
 sugar, poimded and sifted, and half an ounce 
 of caraway seeds. Having beaten tliis one 
 hour, Ijake it for the same time in a quick 
 oven. This is a very light cake, and is ve- 
 ry proper for young people and delicate 
 stomachs. 
 
 CAKES, RICH GINGERBREAD. To 
 
 0ne pound of dried and sifted flour, allow 
 half a pound of pounded loaf sugar, diree- 
 quarters of a pound of fresh butter washed in 
 rose water, one pound of treacle, one nutmeg 
 grated, the weight of a nuimeg of pounded 
 mace, and as much of pounded cinnamon, 
 one ounce of pounded ginger, one and a half 
 of candied oi-ange and lemon-peel, cut small, 
 half an ounce of blanched sweet almonds, cut 
 it into long thin bits, and two well-beaten 
 eggs. Melt the butter with the treacle, and 
 wben nearly cold, stir in the eggs and the 
 rest of the mgi-edients ; mix all well together, 
 make it into round cakes, and bake them 
 upon tins. 
 
 CAKE, GINGERBREAD. Take two 
 pounds of treacle, two and a quarter of flour, 
 of brown sugar and fresh butter three-quar- 
 ters of a pound each, four ounces of cai-away 
 seeds, die same quantity of candied orange- 
 peel cut small, four well-beaten eggs, and 
 half an ounce of j^earl ashes ; beat the butter 
 to a cream, and mix it with the r^t of the 
 ingredients. The next day work it well up, 
 and bake it in a buttered tin. 
 
 CAKE, GLOVE. With flour make into 
 a paste tliick enough to roll out, tlie beaten 
 yolks often eggs, five table-spoonfiils of rich 
 sweet cream, a little sugar, and some carda- 
 mons ; cut it into fanciful forms with small 
 tins, and tlirow diem into fresh boiling lard 
 or butter ; when of a light brown color, drain 
 them before the fire. If fried in butter, add 
 a litde water to the butter, and make it boil- 
 ing hot. 
 
 CAKES, GIRDLE. Rub three ojinces 
 of fresh butter into one pound of flour, with 
 half a tea-spoonful of salt ; moisten with a 
 sufficiency of sweet butter-milk to make it 
 into a paste ; roll it out, and cut it into cakes 
 witli a cup or tumbler, and bake them upon 
 a girdle. 
 
 CAKES, HONEY. One pound and a 
 half of dried and sifted flour, Uiree-quarters 
 of a pound of honey, half a pound of finely 
 pounded loaf sugar, a quarter of a pound of 
 citron, and half an ounce of oraiige-jjeel cut 
 small, of pounded ginger and cinnamon, tlu-ee 
 cjuaiters of an ounce. Melt the sugar with 
 the honey, and mix in theoUier ingredients; 
 roll out the paste, and cut it into small cakes 
 of any form. 
 
 CAKES, HEART. WiUi your hand 
 work a pound of butter to a cream, then put 
 to it twelve eggs, with only six of the whites 
 well-beaten, a pound of dried flour, a pound 
 of sifted sugar, four spoonfuls of good bi-andy, 
 and a pound of currants washed and dried 
 Ijefore the fire. As the pans are filled, put 
 in two ounces of candied orange and citron, 
 and continue beating the cake till you put it 
 into the oven. This quantity will be suffi- 
 cient to fill tln-ee dozen of middling sized 
 pans. 
 
 CAKES, IRISH SEED. Beat to a 
 cream eight ounces of fresh butter, and a 
 quarter of a pint of rose water, putting in a 
 table-spoonful of rose water at a time; by 
 degiees, mix into it a pound of sifted loaf 
 sugar, and then nine well-ljcaten eggs; add 
 twelve ounces of flour, and diree of flour of 
 rice dried and sifted, a quarter of a pound 
 of blanciied and pounded sweet or bitter al- 
 monds, a tea-spoonfiU of essence of lemon. 
 
CAKE 
 
 37 
 
 CAKE 
 
 and one ounce of caraway seeds ; beat all 
 these well together; bake it in a cake tin, 
 which must be buttered and lined vvitli paper, 
 also buttered. It will re(|uire alx»ut one hour 
 and a half to bake in a quick oven. It may 
 be made without the almonds or tlie essence 
 of lemon. 
 
 CAKES , LITTLE. To a pound of flour 
 dried, add a pound of lump sugar rolled veiy 
 line, tlie peel of two lemons cho|)ped small, 
 and five ounces of butter ; mix tiiem thor- 
 oughly ; let it stand sometime before the fire, 
 then add three eggs well teaten, the whites 
 separately, pick tliem with a fork into small 
 lumpS) and bake them on a tin: diis quanti- 
 ty will make about eighty cakes. Instead 
 of lemon-peel you may, if you please, add 
 sixty bitter almonds blanched and beaten 
 with white of egg until tliey are quite fine. 
 
 CAKES, MANON. Form some puff 
 paste into an under-crust and cover some 
 baking-plates widi it ; then spread all over 
 them some frangipane, or marmalade, of 
 whatever sort you please ; add some sweet- 
 meat, and then cover widi a very Uiin crust ; 
 gild and ornament them, dien put them in 
 the oven ; when they are three parts done, 
 sprinkle them with sugar, and glaze. When 
 they are glazed put tliem to finish baking in 
 a more gentle oven, and when done take 
 them out of die tins, and serve diem either 
 hot or cold. 
 
 CAKES, MONTROSE. Of dried and 
 sifted flour, pounded and sifted loaf sugar, 
 and of fresh butter, one pound each will be 
 required, also twelve well-beaten eggs, diiee 
 quarters of a pound of cleaned and dried 
 currants ; beat the butter to a cream with the 
 sugar ; add the eggs by degrees, and then the 
 flour and currants, with two table-spoonfuls 
 of brandy, one of rose water, and half a 
 grated nutmeg; beat all well together for 
 twenty or thirty minutes, when it is to be 
 put into small buttered tins, half filling them, 
 and baking them in a quick oven. The 
 currants may be omitted. 
 
 CAKES, MEAT. See Meat. 
 
 CAKES, NUNS. Take four pounds of 
 veiy fine flour, and mix with it diree pounds 
 of double-refined sugar, finely beat and sifted ; 
 dry diem by the fire till your other materials 
 are prepared; take four pounds of butter, 
 beat it in your hands till it is very soft like 
 cream ; beat thirty-four eggs, leave out six- 
 teen whites and take out the treads from all ; 
 beat the eggs and butter togedier till it ap- 
 pears like butter, pour in four or five 
 spoonfuls of rose or orange-flower water, and 
 beat it again; then take yom* flour and sugar 
 4 
 
 with six ounces of caraway seeds ; strew k 
 in by degrees, beating it up all die white, 
 for two hours together ; put in as much tinc- 
 ture of cinnamon, or ambergris, as you 
 please; butter your hoop, and let it stand 
 three hours in a moderate oven. 
 
 CAKES, NUNS' BEADS. Pound in a 
 mortar four ounces of good cheese, with a 
 little salt, the beaten yolks of three eggs, and 
 some crumbs of bread ; roll them as large as 
 walnuts, cover them with puff" paste, and firy 
 diem in butter a light brown color. Serve 
 them in a napkin. 
 
 CAKES, OATMEAI.. One only should 
 be made at a time, as the mixture dries 
 quickly. Put two or three handfiils of meal 
 into a bowl, and moisten it with water 
 merely sufficient to form it into a cake; 
 knead it out round and round with the hands 
 upon the paste-board, strewing meal under 
 and over it ; it may be made as thin as a 
 wafer, or diicker, according to taste, and 
 put it on a hot iron plate, called a girdle. 
 Bake it till it be a light brown on die under 
 side, then take it oflf, and toast that side 
 before the fire which was uppermost on the 
 girdle. The toaster is such as is conunonly 
 used for heating smoothing irons, having a 
 back to support the cake. To make these 
 cakes soft, they must not be toasted before 
 the fire, but bodi sides done quickly on the 
 girdle. 
 
 CAKE, PLUM. Three pounds of flour, 
 three pounds of currants, three-quarters of a 
 pound of almonds, blanched and beat grossly, 
 about half an ounce of them bitter, four 
 ounces of sugar, seven yolks and six whites 
 of eggs, one pint of cream, two pounds of 
 butter, half a pint of good ale yeast ; mix the 
 eggs and the yeast together, strain them ; set 
 die cream on the fire, melt the butter in it ; 
 stir in the ahnonds, and half a pint of sack, 
 part of which should be put to the almonds 
 while beating ; mix together the flour, cur- 
 rants and sugar, what nutmegs, cloves and 
 mace are liked: stir these to the cream: 'pit 
 in the yeast. 
 
 CAKES, POTATO CHEESE. (1) 
 Boil and peel half a pound of good potatoes, 
 bruise them in a mortar, and when nearly 
 cold drop in die yolk and white of an egg 
 at intervals, until four have been added, 
 beating the potatoes well all die time ; then 
 add a quarter of a pound of sifted bread 
 crumbs, and put in two more eggs. Beat 
 to a cream six ounces of fresh butter, with 
 the same quantity of pounded loaf sugar; 
 put it into the mortar, with die grated peel 
 of one lemon, and mix all thoroughly. Line 
 the patty-pans widi paste, fill them three 
 
CAKE 
 
 38 
 
 CAKE 
 
 parts full, and bake them in a moderate | sugar over them ; tliey are soon baked. They 
 oven. may be done in a Dutch oven. 
 
 CAKES, POTATO CHEESE. (2) 
 Pound in a mortar five ounces of potatoes 
 with four of fresh butter, and the same quan- 
 tity of pounded loaf sugar, the grated peel 
 and juice of half a lemon, three well-beaten 
 eggs, and a table-spoonful of brandy ; mix 
 aU well together, and bake as before di- 
 rected. 
 
 CAKES, PARIJAMENT. Put into a 
 sauce pan two poiuids of treacle, and when 
 it boils, add a quarter of a pound of butter, 
 and pour it upon two pounds of flour; add a 
 little alum, and a bit of pearlash about the 
 size of a nut, and an ounce of ginger. Work 
 it well with the hand till quite smooth ; let 
 it stand a day and a night, then roll it out 
 vei-y thin, and cut it into oblong cakes. 
 
 CAKE, POUND. (1) Take one pound 
 of dried and sifted (lour, the same quantity 
 of sifted loaf sugar, and of fresh butter wash- 
 ed in rose water ; the well-beaten yolks of 
 twelve, and the whites of six eggs ; then 
 with the hand beat the butter to a cream, 
 by degrees add the sugar, then the eggs and 
 the flour; beat it all well together tor an 
 hour. Bake it in a tin pan buttered, or in 
 small ones in a quick oven. 
 
 CAKE, POUND. (2) Take of dried 
 and sifted flour, sifted loaf sugar, fresh but- 
 ter, cleaned and dried currants, one pound 
 each, and twelve eggs ; then whisk the yolks 
 and whites of the eggs separately, while 
 another with the hand beats the butler to a 
 cream ; and as the frodi rises upon the eggs 
 add it to the butter, and continue so domg 
 till it is all beaten in; mix the flour and 
 sugar togetlier, and add them by degrees; 
 tlie last thing, mix in the currants, together 
 with a glass of brandy. It will require to 
 be beaten during a whole hour. Bake it in 
 a buttered tin. 
 
 CAKE, POUND. (3) To a pound of 
 sifted sugar, add a pound of fresh butter, and 
 mix them with the hand ten minutes ; put to 
 them nine yolks and five whites of eggs well- 
 beaten ; whisk all well, and add a pound of 
 sifted flour, a few caraway seeds, a quarter 
 of a pound of candied orange-peel cut into 
 slices, a few currants washed and picked, 
 and mix all together as light as possible. 
 
 CAKE, QUEEN. Beat one pound of 
 butter to a cream, with some rose water, 
 one pound of flour dried, one pound of sifted 
 sugar, twelve eggs ; beat all well together ; 
 add a few currants washed and dried ; butter 
 small pans of a size for tlie purpose, grate 
 
 CAKE, ROYAL. Put a very little lemon- 
 peel, shred fine, into a stewpan, with two 
 ounces of sugar, a small pinch of salt, a 
 piece of butter half the size of an egg, a glass 
 of water, and four or five spoonfuls of flour; 
 stir over the fire till the paste becomes thick, 
 and begins to adhere to the stewpan ; then 
 take it off, put in an egg, and stir it in the 
 I paste till it is well mixed; continue to add 
 one egg at a time, till the paste softens with- 
 out becoming liquid; then put in some 
 dried orange flowers, and two bitter almond 
 biscuits, the whole slu'ed fine; make the 
 paste into little cakes, about the size roimd 
 of a half-crown ; put them on buttered paper, 
 gild them witli the yolk of an egg beat up, 
 and bake half an hour in an oven moderately 
 hot. 
 
 CAKE, RICH. To two pounds and a 
 half of dried and sifted flour allow the same 
 quantity of fresh butter washed with rose- 
 water, two pounds of finely-pounded loaf 
 sugar, three pounds of cleaned and dried 
 currants, one nutmeg grated, half a pound 
 of sweetmeats cut small, a quarter of a 
 pound of blanched almonds pounded with a 
 little rose-water, and twenty eggs, the yolks 
 and whites separately beaten. The butter 
 must be beaten with tlie hand till it become 
 like cream; then add the sugar, and by 
 degrees the eggs, after these the rest of the 
 ingredients, mixing in at last the currants, 
 with a tea-cupful of brandy, and nearly as 
 much orange-flower water. This mixture 
 must be beaten t(jgether rather more than 
 an hour, then put into a cakepan, which has 
 previously been buttered and lined with but- 
 tered paper ; fill it rather more than three- 
 quarters full. It should be baked in a 
 moderate oven for three hours, and then 
 cooled gradually, by at fust letting it stand 
 sometime at the mouth of tlie oven. 
 
 CAKE, RICE. (1) Whisk ten eggs for 
 half an hour, add to them half a pound of flour 
 of rine, half a pound of pounded and sifted 
 loaf sugar, and the grated peel of two lemons; 
 mix this into half a pound of fresli butter, 
 previously beaten to a cream. Bake the 
 cake in a buttered tin. 
 
 CAKE, RICE. (2) Take six ounces of 
 ground rice, six ounces of flour, three-quar- 
 ters of a pound of fine sugar sifted, nine eggs, 
 the yolks arid whites beaten separately ; mix 
 all well togedier, grate in tlie rind of a lemon, 
 and beat it well half an hour. 
 
 CAKES, LITTLE RICE. Whisk well 
 six yolks and two whites of eggs ; tlien with 
 
CAKE 
 
 39 
 
 CAKE 
 
 a horn spoon beat in six ounces of finely- 
 pounded loaf sugar, add eight ounces of sift- 
 ed ground rice, and two tuble-spoonfuis of 
 orange-flower or rose water, or die gialed 
 peel of a lemon, and just before the mixture 
 IS to be put into tlie tins, stir into it six 
 ounces of fresh butter melted ; dust tlie patty 
 pans with flour, or rub them with butter ; 
 let tliem be half filled, and bake die calces 
 in a quick oven. 
 
 CAKES, SMALL RpUT. Rub into 
 one pound of di'ied and sifted flour, half a 
 pound of butter, six ounces of pounded and 
 sifted loaf sugar, and the yollis of two \vell- 
 beaten eggs ; mix tliem all into a paste with 
 a little rosewater ; divide tiie quantity, put 
 a few dried cmrants or caraway seeds into 
 one half; roll out tlie paste, cut it into small 
 round cakes, and bake tliem upon buttered 
 tins. 
 
 CAKE RICE, A SWEET dish. Wash 
 well and drain a quarter of a pound of rice. 
 Boil with a quart of fi-esh cream tlie peel of 
 one lemon, and when nearly cold take it out 
 and put in the rice; place the sauce pan over 
 a slow fire, and when the rice has swollen, 
 add a little salt, and sweeten widi pounded 
 loaf sugar; when the rice is quite tender, add 
 the yoUts of eight eggs, and mix in gradually 
 the beaten whites, with a good bit of firesli 
 butter, and p^ur it into a mould ; tui-n tliis 
 round, that die butter may equally cover 
 every part of it, then pour out the butter, and 
 strew over the inside a layer of grated bread ; 
 with a paste brush or a slip of paper, sprinkle 
 all over it some of the clarified butter, add 
 more grated bread, pour in die rice, and 
 bake it in a moderate oven for an hour. 
 Turn it out upon a dish, and serve it with 
 or vvidiout a garnishing of preserved rasp- 
 berries, cherries, or currants. 
 
 CAKES, SPANISH. Rub, till quite 
 fine and smootii, one pound of butter with 
 two pounds of flour, then add a pound of 
 good brown sugar, rolled fine; mix all to- 
 gether with four well-beaten eggs; break 
 the paste into small bits or knobs, and bake 
 them upon floured tins. 
 
 CAKES, SHREWSBURY. Take a 
 pound of buttfer, and put it in a little flat 
 pan, rub it till it is as fine as cream, then 
 take one pound of powdered sugar, a little 
 cinnamon and mace pounded, and four eggs, 
 yolks and whites together ; beat them widi 
 your hand till it is very light ; then take one 
 pound and a half of sifted flour, work it 
 together, and roll it on your dresser, to what 
 size you like, only very flat, let your oven be 
 rather slow, and let them change dieir color, 
 tlien take them out. 
 
 CAKE, SPONGE. (1) Weigh ten eggs, 
 and tlieir weight in very fine sugar, and that 
 of six in flour ; beat the yolks with die flour, 
 and the whites alone, to a very stiff froth; 
 dien by degrees mix the whites and the flour 
 with the other ingredients, and beat them 
 well haU" an hour. Bake m a quick oveu an 
 hour. 
 
 CAKE, SPONGE. (2) Take die juice 
 
 and grated rind of a lemon, twelve eggs, 
 twelve ounces of finely-pounded loaf sugar, 
 the same of dried and sifted flour; then widi 
 a horn spoon beat die yolks of ten eggs, add 
 the sugar by degrees, and beat it till it will 
 stand when dropped from die spoon ; put in 
 at separate times die two other eggs, yolks 
 and whites ; whisk the ten whites for eight 
 minutes, and mix in the lemon-juice, and 
 when quite stiff, take as much as the whisk 
 will lift, and put it upon the yolks and sugar, 
 which must be beaten all die time ; mix in 
 lightly the flour and grated peel, and pour it 
 all gradually over the whites ; stir it together, 
 and bake it in a buttered tin, or in small 
 tins ; do not more than half fill them. 
 
 CAKES, SHORT. Dissolve half a 
 pound of fresh butter in as much milk ai 
 will make a pound and a half of flour into 
 a paste, roll it out about a quarter of an 
 inch diick, and cut it into large round cakes. 
 Do them in a fiying-pan, and serve them hot. 
 They are eaten widi butter. 
 
 CAKES, SALLY LUNN. Take one 
 pint of milk quite warm, a quarter of a pint 
 of thick small-beer yeast ; put them into a pan 
 with flour sufficient to make it as thick as 
 batter, — cover it over, and let it stand till it 
 has risen as high as it will, t. e. about two 
 hours : add two ounces of lump sugai", dis- 
 solved in a quarter of a pint of warm milk, 
 a quarter of a pound of butter iiibbed into 
 your flour very fine ; then make your dough 
 the same as for French rofls, &c. ; and kt 
 it stand half an hour; then make up yoor 
 cakes, and put diem on tins : when diey have 
 stood to rise, bake them in a quick oven. 
 Care should be taken never to put your 
 yeast to water or milk too hot, or too cold, as 
 eidier extreme will destroy the fermentation. 
 In summer it should be lukewarm, in winter 
 a little warmer, and in very cold weather, 
 wanner still. When it has first risen, if you 
 are not prepared, it will not hurt to stand an 
 horn*. 
 
 CAKES, SUGAR. Take half a pound 
 of dried flour, die same quantity of fi-eeh 
 butter washed in rose water, and a quarter 
 of a pound of sifted loaf sugar ; then mix 
 together die flour and sugar : rub in the but- 
 ter, and add the yolk of an egg beaten with 
 
CAKE 
 
 40 
 
 CALF 
 
 a table-spoonful of cream ; make it into a 
 paste, roll, and cut it into small round cakes, 
 which bake upon a floured tin. 
 
 CAKES, TEA. With a pound of flour 
 rub half a pound of butter ; add the beaten 
 yolks of two, and the white of one egg, a 
 quairter of a pound of pounded loaf sugar, 
 and a few caraway seeds ; mix it to a paste 
 with a little warm milk, cover it with a 
 cbth, and let it stand before the fire for 
 nearly an hour ; roll out the paste, and cut it 
 into round cakes with the top of a glass, and 
 bake them upon floured tins. 
 
 CAKE, TWELFTH. Two pounds of 
 sifled flour, two pounds of sifted loaf su- 
 gar, two pounds of butter, eighteen eggs, 
 toui' pounds of ciu-rants, one half pound of 
 sdmonds blanched and chopiied, one half pound 
 of citron, one pound of candied orange and 
 lonon peel cut into thin slices, a large nut- 
 meg grated, half an ounce of ground allspice ; 
 ground cinnamon, mace, ginger, and corian- 
 ders, a quarter of an ounce of each, and a 
 gill of brandy. Put the butter into a stew- 
 pan, in a warm place, and work it into a 
 wnootli cream with tlie hand, and mix it 
 with the sugar and spice in a pan, (or on 
 your paste board) for sometime ; then break 
 in the eggs by degrees, and beat it at least 
 twenty minutes ; stir in the brandy, and then 
 the flour, and work it a little ; add the fruit, 
 sweetmeats, and almonds, and mix all to- 
 gether lightly ; have ready a hoop cased with 
 paper, on a baking-plate ; put in the mixture, 
 smooth it on the top with your hand, dipped 
 in milk ; put the plate on another, widi saw 
 dust between, to prevent the bottom from 
 coloring too muchr bake it in a slow oven 
 £oiar hours or more, and when nearly cold, 
 ice it with icing. This mixture would make 
 a handsome cake, foil twelve or fourteen 
 inches over. 
 
 CAKE, WHITE. Take of diied and 
 sifted flour ,of fresh butter and of finely-pound- 
 ed loaf sugar, one pound each ; five well-beaten 
 eggs, a quarter of a pint of cream, of candied 
 orange and lemon peel, cut small, three quar- 
 ters of an ounce each ; one ounce of cara- 
 way seeds, half a grated nutmeg, a glass of 
 brandy, and a little rose water ; then beat 
 the butter to a cream, and add all the other 
 ingi'edients to it, and at the last mix in one ta- 
 ble-spoonful of fi-esh yeast ; let the cake rise 
 before tlie fire for half an hour. Bake it in 
 a buttered tin. Instantly u}X)n taking it 
 out of the oven, with a feather, brush the 
 top all over with the beaten white of an egg, 
 and then sift loaf sugar upon it. Let it 
 ' at the mouth of the oven to harden. 
 
 CAKES, YEAST. Take a pound of 
 
 flour, two pounds of currants, washed and 
 picked, a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, 
 a quarter of a pound of Lisbon sugar, a quar- 
 ter of a pound of citron and candied orange- 
 peel cut into slices, cinnamon and mace, a 
 small quantity of each pounded and sifted. 
 Make a hole in the centre of the ingredients, 
 put in a gill of sweet wine, a little warm 
 milk, mix all together, fill a hoop with it, 
 let it remain till it rises, and bake it. 
 
 CAKES, YORKSHIRE. Take two 
 pounds of flour, and mix with it four ounces 
 of butter, melted in a pint of good milk, 
 three spoonfiils of yeast, and two eggs ; beat 
 all well together, and let it rise ; then knead 
 it, and make it into cakes ; let them rise on 
 tins before you bake, which do in a slow 
 oven. Another sort is made as above, leav- 
 ing out the butter. The fiist is shorter, the 
 last lighter. 
 
 CAKE, BISCUIT. One pound of flour, 
 five eggs well-beaten and sti-ained, eight 
 ounces of sugar, a little rose or orange-flower 
 water, beat the whole thoroughly, and bake 
 it for one hour. 
 
 CALF'S BRAINS, with Oysters. 
 Blanch and clean tlie brains, then wipe them 
 diy, dip them into yolks of eggs, and roll 
 tliem in bread crumbs ; fry them in boiling 
 lard till of a good color, dnlln them very 
 dry, and serve with oysters, stewed either 
 white or brown. Garnish with broiled ham 
 cut in small round pieces. 
 
 CALF'S BRAINS. Cleanse two calves' 
 brains, and stew diem in stock witli two or 
 three spoonfuls of vinegar, a bunch of pars- 
 ley, scallions, a clove of garlic, three 
 cloves, thyme, laurel, and basil ; when suifi- 
 ciently stewed, cut each piece of the brain 
 in two, dip them in a batter made of two 
 handfuls of flour, diluted with a little oil, half 
 a pint of white wine, and salt. Fry them in 
 lard until the batter is crisp and the brains 
 of a gold color. 
 
 CALF'S BRAINS, with fried par- 
 sley. Blanch three or four brains of 
 nearly an equal size; parlwil tliem, and 
 take ofi" the skin ; tlien boil them in water, 
 with a little salt, vinegar and butter. Serve 
 them with a sauce made of a little browned 
 butter, a table-spoonful of vinegar, some salt 
 and pepper, and some parsley fried very 
 green. 
 
 CALF'S CHITTERLINGS. Cut them 
 open with scissors, wash and cleanse them 
 thoroughly, lay them for a night into salt- 
 and-water, then wash them well, parboil, 
 and cut theui into small pieces, dip ti;em in-* 
 
CALF 
 
 41 
 
 CALF 
 
 to a thick batter, seasoned with pepper, 
 salt, and a little white wine. Fiy them of 
 a light brown color in beef drip[)iiig ; serve 
 with a fringe of fried parsley. Or, After 
 being parboiled, they may be roasted, when 
 they must be constantly basted with butter, 
 dredged with flour to froth them nicely; 
 then served with melted butter-, and lemon 
 pickle poured over them. Or, They may 
 be baked — when, after being parboiled, they 
 are rubbed over with butter, and put into 
 the oven on an iron frame, which is placed 
 in a deep dish. This oblong frame of 
 white iron, about two inches high, will be 
 found useful in baking ever} kind of meat. 
 
 CALF'S CHAUDRON, FRICASSEE. 
 
 Parboil a calf's chaudron, and when cold, 
 cut it in pieces about as big as walnuts; 
 season them with salt, pepper, nutmeg, cloves, 
 mace, an onion, tarragon, and parsley, shred 
 fine ; fry them iu a ladleful of good broth 
 and fresh butter; make a sauce of mutton 
 gravy, orange and lemon juice, eggs' yolks, 
 and grated nutmeg; toss up tliese ingredi- 
 ents with the chaudron, then dish it and 
 serve. 
 
 CALF'S-FEET PUDDING. See Pud- 
 dings. 
 
 CALF'S FEET JELLY. See Jelly. 
 
 CALF'S FEET, POTTED. Boil tlie 
 feet as for jelly, pick all the meat from tlie 
 bones, add to it half a pint of gravy, a little 
 salt, pepper, and nutmeg, garlic, a shallot 
 and some shred ham; simmer it for half an 
 hour, dip a mould into water, put in a lay- 
 er of the meat, then some neatly-cut pickled 
 beet root, and some boiled minced parsley, 
 then a layei- of meat, and so on, till the 
 mould be filled; when cold, turn it out. 
 Garnish widi pickled eggs, beet root, and 
 pai-sley. 
 
 CALF'S FEET, PLAIN. Scald, clean, 
 and blanch some calves' feet, boil them till 
 the bones will come out, then stew them in 
 a blanc. See Calf's Head, plain. When 
 done, drain and serve them with parsley 
 and butter. 
 
 CALF'S HEAD, HASHED. Boil the 
 head almost enough, and take die meat of 
 the best side neatly from tlie bone, and lay 
 it in a small dish; wash it over with the 
 yolks of two eggs, and cover it with crumbs, 
 a few herbs nicely shred, a little pepper, salt, 
 and nutmeg, all mixed togedier previously. 
 Set the dish before the fire, and keep tuin- 
 ing it now and dien, that all parts may be 
 equally brown. In the meantime slice the 
 remainder of the head, and the tongue, 
 4* 
 
 i (peeled); put a pint of good gravy into a 
 pan, widi an onion, a small bunch of herbs, 
 I (consisting of parsley, basil, savory, tarra- 
 ! gon, knotted marjoram, and a little thyme), 
 j a little salt and Cayenne, a shallot, a glass 
 i of Sherry, and a little oyster liquor: boil this 
 : for a few minutes, and strain it upon the 
 I meat, which must be sprinkled with flour. 
 j Add some fresh or pickled mushrooms, a 
 few truflles and morels, and two spoonfuls of 
 : catchup; beat up half the brains, and put 
 I them to die rest, with a bit of butter and 
 : (lour. Simmer th6 whole. Beat the other 
 i part of the brains widi shied lemon-peel, a 
 j little nutmeg and mace, some parsley shred, 
 ! and an egg ; fry this in little cali.es of a fine 
 j gold color; dip some oysters into die yolk 
 ■ of an egg, and fry die same way, also some 
 I good forcemeat balls, and garnish the dish 
 widi diem. 
 
 i CALF'S HEAD SOUP, OR MOCK 
 : TURTLt. See Soups. 
 
 CALF'S HEAD. Widi a sharp knife 
 cut all the meat entire fiom die bone, cut 
 out the tongue, and carefully take out the 
 brains ; lay diem all in cold water for two or 
 I three hours. Mince veiy small two pounds 
 I of lean veal, and one pound of beef suet, 
 with the grated crumb of a penny loaf, 
 some sweet herbs, grated lemon-peel, nutmeg, 
 pepper, and salt ; mix them well together, and 
 bind it with the yolks of four eggs beaten up; 
 reserve as much of the forcemeat as will 
 make twenty small balls: wash the head 
 clean, wipe it dry, and put the forcemeat in- 
 to the inside; close it, and tie it firmly with 
 tape ; put it into a stewpan with two quarts 
 of gravy, half a pint of white wine, and a 
 bunch of sweet herbs; cover it closely, and 
 let it stew gently ; boil die tongue, cut it in- 
 to thin slices, mince die brains widi a little 
 paisley and a tiible-spoonful of flour, add 
 some pepper, salt, grated lemon-peel, and 
 nutmeg; beat two eggs and mix with the 
 brains, drop it vvitli a spoon in small cakes 
 into a pan of boiling dripping, and firy 
 dieni of a light brown color. Fry the force- 
 meat balls, and drain them, widi die cakes, 
 upon the back of a sieve before the fire ; 
 when the head has stewed till it be suffic- 
 iently tender, put it into a dish and take off 
 the tape, strain the gravy, and diicken it 
 with a table-spoonful of flour of rice, and a 
 little bit of butter ; if not well seasoned, add 
 more salt and pepper, put in the tongue, 
 make it all hot, and pour it over the head. 
 Garnish with the brain-cakes, forcemeat 
 balls, and cut lemon. 
 
 CALF'S HEAD, ROASTED. Wash 
 
 and clean it well, parboil it, take out 
 die bones, brains, and tongue ; make force- 
 
CAhf 
 
 4^ 
 
 CALF 
 
 meat sufficient for the head, and some 
 balls with bread crumbs, minced suet, pars- 
 ley, grated ham, and a little pounded veal, 
 or cold fowl ; season with pepper, salt, grated 
 nutmeg, and lemon-peel; bind it with an 
 egg, beaten up, fill the head with it, which 
 must then be sewed up, or fastened ^vith 
 skewers and tied. While roasting, baste it 
 well with butter ; beat up the brains with a 
 little cream, the yolli of an egg, some minc- 
 ed parsley, a little pepj^er and salt; blanch 
 the tongue, citt it into slices, and fry it 
 with the brains, forcemeat balls, and thin 
 slices of bacon. Serve the head with white 
 or bro\vn thickened gravy, and place tlie 
 tongue, forcemeat balls, and brains round it. 
 Garnish with cut lemon. It will require 
 one hour and a half to roast. 
 
 CALF'S HEAD, PLAIN. Clean a 
 calf's head nicely, and cut out the bone of 
 the lower jaw, and of the nose, taking out 
 the nose lx)ne as close to the eyes as possi- 
 ble ; wash the head well in warm water, 
 and let it blanch in some clean water. Pre- 
 pare a blanc, or sauce, as follows: — One 
 pound of beef suet, and one pound of fat 
 bacon, cut small, half a pound of butter, a 
 bunch of parsley, a little thyme, two or 
 three bay leaves, one or two onions, and the 
 juice of a lemon ; season with salt, pepper, 
 mace, cloves, and allspice; boil all this an 
 hour in six pints of water, then tie up the 
 head in a cloth, boil it in the sauce about 
 tln-ee hours, and drain it; take out the 
 tongue, skin and replace it; serve quite 
 hot, with the following sauce — minced shal- 
 lots, parsley, the brains minced, some vine- 
 gar, salt, and pepper. 
 
 CALF'S HEAD, SOUSED. Scald 
 and bone a calf's head, and soak it for sev- 
 en or eight hours, changing the water twice ; 
 dry it well. Season with salt and bruised 
 garlic; roll it up, bind it very tight, and 
 boil it in white wine, salt and water; when 
 done, put it, with the liquor, in a pan, and 
 keep it for use. Sen'e up either whole, or 
 in slices, with oil, vinegar, and pepper. 
 
 CALF'S HEAD, BIGAREE. Clean 
 and blanch a calf's head, boil it till the 
 bones will come out easily, then bone and 
 press it between two dishes, so as to give it 
 an oblong form ; beat witli the yolks of four 
 eggs a little melted butter, pepper, and salt. 
 Divide the head when cold, and brush it all 
 over with the Ijeaten eggs, and strew over it 
 grated bread ; repeat this twice. With the 
 grated bread, which is put over one half, a 
 
 food quantity of finely-minced parsley should 
 e mixed; place the head upon a dish, and 
 bake it of a nice brown color. Serve it 
 with a sauce of parsley and butter, and 
 
 with one of good gravy, mixed with the 
 biains which have been previously Ijoiled, 
 and chopped, and seasoned with a little 
 Cayenne and salt. 
 
 CALF'S HEART, ROASTED. Fill 
 the heart with the following forcemeat: a 
 quarter of a pound of beef suet, chopped 
 small, grated bread, parsley, marjoram, lem- 
 on-peel, pepper, salt, nutmeg, and die yolk 
 of an egg. Lay a veal caul, or a sheet of 
 paper on the stuffing to keep it in its place. 
 Put the heart into a Dutch oven, before a 
 clear fire, and turn it frequently, till thor- 
 oughly roasted all round. Garnish with 
 slices of lemon, and pour melted butter over 
 it. 
 
 CALF LIVER, BROILED. Slice it, 
 season with pepper and salt, and broil nice- 
 ly: rub a bit of cold butter on it, and serve 
 hot and hot. 
 
 'CALF'S LIVER, LARDED AND 
 ROASTED. Lard a fine calf's liver the 
 same as a fricandeau, and let it lie for 
 twenty-four hours in vinegar, with a sliced 
 onion, some paisley, a little thyme, a bay 
 leaf, some salt and pepper. Roast, and 
 baste it well with butter, then glaze it with 
 a light glaze, and serve it with a poivmde, 
 or any other sauce. 
 
 CALF'S LIVER, ROASTED. (1) 
 
 Wash and wi[)e it ; then cut a long hole in it, 
 and stuff it with crumbs of bread, chopped 
 anchovy, a good deal of fat bacon, onion, salt, 
 pepper, a bit of butter, and an egg; sew 
 the liver up; lard it, wrap it in a veal caul, 
 and roast it. Serve with good brown gra- 
 vy and cui'iTint jelly. 
 
 CALF'S LIVER, ROASTED. (2) 
 
 Lard a calf's liver with streaky bacon; 
 roast and baste it fietjuently with its own 
 gravy. 
 
 CALF'S LIVER, ROASTED. (3) 
 
 Lard a fine calf's liver, and pickle it in 
 vinegar, with an onion, cut into slices, pars- 
 ley, salt, pepper, thyme, and a bay leaf. 
 When it has been s(jaked for twenty-foiu* 
 hours, fasten it Dn a spit, roast and baste it 
 fi-equently. Glaze it with a light glaze, as 
 it is naturally of a black color. Serve un- 
 der it a brown poivrade. 
 
 CALF'S LIVER, SCOLLOPS. Par- 
 boil and cut into slices a very nice calf's 
 liver, and shape them into hearts. Stew 
 some fine herbs, parsley, shallots, and mush- 
 rooms; then add the calf's liver, and let it 
 stew over a slow fire ; when done on one 
 side, turn and season it with pepper and 
 
CAP 
 
 43 
 
 CAP 
 
 salt; take out the liver, dredge in a little 
 flour over the heibs, and add some more 
 gravy; let this boil for ten minutes, then 
 heat the liver in the sauce before serving it. 
 This may be eaten at breakfast. 
 
 CALF'S PLUCK. Wash it very clean, 
 and, if liked, stuff the heart with a force- 
 meat, made of crumbs of bread, butter, and 
 parsley, and seasoned with pepper, salt, and 
 grated nutmeg. Fasten it firmly witli the 
 liver and lights, tying them to the skewers 
 while roasting; baste it well with butter, 
 and froth it the same way in which veal is 
 done, and serve it with melted butter, mix- 
 ed with a table-spoonful of lemon pickle, or 
 vinegar poured over it. 
 
 CAPER SAUCE. See Sauce. 
 
 CAPILLAIRE. Take fourteen pounds 
 ef sugar, three pounds of coarse sugar, six 
 eggs beat in with the shells, three quarts of 
 water; boil it up twice; skim it well, then 
 add to it a quarter of a pint of orange-flow- 
 er water ; strain it through a jelly-bag, and 
 put it into IxJttles; when cold, mix a 
 spoonful or two of this sirup, as it is liked 
 for sweetness in a draught of warm or cold 
 water. 
 
 CAPILOTADE ITALIAN. Cut up 
 
 a cold roast fowl ; then take a good slice 
 of butter, and some shred rauslirooms and 
 potherbs; fry these till tliey are about to 
 turn brown, with a tea-spoonful of flour: 
 then add to tliem a large glass of white 
 wine. Let the whole simmer togetlier for a 
 quarter of an hour ; next put in the pieces 
 of fowl, and heat them up for a few minutes. 
 Garnish your dish with fried slices of bread; 
 and just before you serve, pour into tlie 
 saucepan two table-spoonfuls of oil, taking 
 care that it does not boil, and stir it up weU 
 with the sauce. 
 
 CAPONS OR FOWLS, Mijst be kill- 
 ed a couple of days in moderate, and more 
 in cold weather, before they are dressed, or 
 they will eat tough: a good criterion of the 
 ripeness of jwultry for the spit, is the ease 
 with which you can then pull out the feathers ; 
 when a fowl is plucked, leave a few to help 
 you to ascertain this. They aie managed 
 exactly in the same manner, and sent up 
 with the same sauces as a turkey, only they 
 require proportionably less time at the fire. 
 A full-grown five-toed fowl, about an hour 
 and a quarter. A moderate-sized one, an 
 hour A chicken, from thirty to forty min- 
 utes. Here, also, pork sausages fried are 
 in general a favorite accomj)animent, or 
 turkey stuffing ; see forcemeats ; put in plen- 
 ty of it, so as to plump out the fowl, which 
 
 must be tied closely (both at the neck and 
 rump), to keep in die stuffing. Some cooks 
 put the liver of the fowl into this forcemeat, 
 and others mince it and pound it, and rub it 
 up widi flour and melted butter. When 
 the bird is stuffed and trussed, score the 
 gizzard nicely, dip it into melted butter, let 
 it drain, and then season it with Cayenne 
 and salt ; put it under one pinion, and the 
 liver under the other ; to prevent their get- 
 ting hardened or scorched, comr them with 
 double paper buttered. l^pife care that 
 your roasted poulti-y be well browned ; it is 
 as indispensable that roasted poultry should 
 have a rich brown complexion, as boiled 
 poultry should have a delicate white one. 
 
 CAPON, TO CHOOSE. If it is young, 
 his spurs are short and his legs smooth ; if^ 
 a true capon, a fat vein on the side of his 
 breast, the comb pale, and a thick belly and 
 rump; if fresh, he will have a close hard 
 vent ; if stale, a loose open vent. 
 
 CAPON, THE FRENCH WAY. Take 
 a quart of white wine, season the cajx)n 
 with salt, cloves, and whole fiepper, a few 
 shallots ; and then put the capon in an earth- 
 en pan ; you must take care it has not room 
 to shake ; it must be covered close, and done 
 over a slow charcoal fire. 
 
 CAPON PASTY. Roast a capon, let 
 it be cold, take the flesh from the bones and 
 slice it, but keep the thighs and pinions 
 whole. Add to the flesh of the capon, four 
 sweetbreads and half a pint of oysters, sea- 
 son them with salt, cloves, nutmeg, and 
 mace, sweet marjoram, pennyroyal, and 
 thyme, minced; lay a sheet of paper or 
 paste in your pasty -pan, and lay the thighs 
 and pinions on the bottom, and strew them 
 over with sliced onions, then put in the 
 flesh of the cajwn, the sweetbreads, and tlie 
 oysters, cut in halves; over these sti'ew a 
 handful of chestnuts, boiled and blanched, 
 then put butter over them, close up your pan 
 and bake it ; when done, add gravy, good 
 stock, drawn butter, anchovies, and grated 
 nutmeg ; garnish with slices of lemon, and 
 serve. Turkey may be done in the same 
 manner. 
 
 CAPONS A LA TURQUE. Pick, 
 
 and clean very nicely, two fine capons ; wash 
 the inside perfectly clean with warm water, 
 and let them soak in warm water for a 
 quarter of an hour; diy them well, and put 
 into them some rice which has been boiled 
 till soft in some rich well-seasoned stock, 
 truss and covei- tiieni with layers of bacon, 
 wrap them in paper, and roast diem for an 
 hour by a hanging-jack ; serve them, put- 
 ting all" round the dish a part of die rice 
 
CAR 
 
 44 
 
 CAR 
 
 which was prepared for the stuffing, and 
 pour over the fowls a veloute sauce. One 
 fine large fowl may be dressed in this 
 manner. 
 
 CAPSICUMS, TO PICKLE. Gather 
 the pods, with the stalks on, before they tiu-n 
 red; cut a slit down the side widi a pen- 
 knife, and take out all the seeds, but as lit- 
 tle of the meat as possible ; lay tliem in a 
 strong brine,.fcr three days, changing it eve- 
 
 Sday; th^|^ke them out, lay diem on a 
 )th, and j&y anotlier over them till they 
 are quite dry ; boil vinegar enough to cover 
 tliem, put in some mace and nutmeg beat 
 small ; put the pods into a glass or jar, and 
 when die liquor is cold, pour it over, then 
 tie a bladder and leaUier over them. 
 
 CARDOONS, WITH CHEESE. String 
 and cut them an inch long, put them into a 
 saucepan with red wine, seasoned with pep- 
 per and salt, stew them till diey are tender, 
 put in a piece of butter rolled in flour, and 
 when of a proper thickness pour them into 
 a dish, stjueeze die juice of an orange into 
 the sauce, and scrape over diem some Par- 
 mesan or Cheshire cheese, and then bvown 
 them with a cheese-iron, but not of too high 
 a color. 
 
 CARDOONS, TO DRESS. Cut them 
 in pieces six inches long, and put them on a 
 string ; boil till tender, have ready a piece 
 of butter in a jian, flour and fry tiiem. They 
 may also be tied in bundles, and served as 
 asparagus boiled on a toast, and pom- but- 
 ter over. 
 
 CARDOONS, SPANISH. Cut them 
 into lengdis of diree inches, be careful not 
 to use those which are hollow and green ; 
 boil them for half an hour, then put them 
 into lukewarm \\ ater to cleanse them from 
 their slime; then dress them in some stock, 
 with a spoonful of flour, some salt, onions, 
 roots, a bunch of sweet herbs, a little \'er- 
 juice, and a little butter ; when done, put 
 diem into a cull is with some stock; cook 
 them for an hour in diis sauce, and ser>'e. 
 
 CARROTS. Let diem be well washed 
 and brushed, not scraped. An hour is 
 enough for young spring carrots ; grown car- 
 rots must be cut in half, and will take from 
 an hour and a half to two hours and a half. 
 When done, rub off" die peels with a clean 
 coarse clodi, and slice diem in two or four, 
 according to dieir size. The best way to 
 tiy if they are done enough, is to pierce them 
 with a fork. Many people are fond of colil 
 carrot with cold beef; ask if you shall cocjk 
 enough for some to l)e left to send «p with 
 the cold meat. 
 
 CARAMEL, OR BOILED SUGAR. 
 Break into a small copper or brass pan, one 
 pound of refined sugar, — put in a gill of 
 spring water ; — set it on a fire, and when 
 it boils, skim it quite clean, and let it boil 
 quick, till it comes to the degree called 
 Crack, which may be known by dipping a 
 teaspoon or skewer into the sugar, and let 
 it drop to the bottom of a pan of cold water; 
 and if it remains hard, it has attained that 
 degree; squeeze in the juice of half a lemon, 
 and let it remain one minute longer on the 
 fire, dien set the pan into anotlier of cold 
 water: — have ready moulds of any shape, 
 — rub them over with sweet oil, dip a spoon 
 or fork into the sugar, and throw it over the 
 mould in fine threads, till it is quite covered: 
 — make a small handle of caramel, or stick 
 on two or three small gum paste rings, by 
 way of ornament, and place it over small 
 pastry of any description. 
 
 CARP, BOILED. Scale and clean a 
 brace of carp, reserving the liver and roe; 
 take half a pint of vinegar, or a quart of 
 sharp cider, add as much water as will cov- 
 er die flfli, a piece of horse-radish, an onion 
 cut into slices, a litde salt, and a faggot of 
 sweet herbs; boil the fish in this liquor, and 
 make a sauce as follows: — strain some of 
 the liquor the fish has been boiled in, and 
 put to it the liver minced, a pint of Port 
 wine, two anchovies, two or three heads of 
 shallots chop|)ed, some salt and black pep- 
 per, a little Cayenne, a table-spoonful of soy; 
 boil and strain it, thicken it with flom* and 
 butter, pour it over the carp hot, garnish 
 widi the roe fried, cut lemon and parsley. 
 
 CARP, STEWED. Scale and clean 
 a brace of carp, reserving the liver and 
 roe; pour over the fish in a deep pan a pint 
 of vinegar, which may be elder vinegar, if 
 the flavor is preferred, with a little mace, 
 three cloves, some sail and Jamaica pepper, 
 two onions sliced, a faggot of parsley, basil, 
 thyme, and marjoram; let them soak an 
 hour, then put them in a stevvjjan with the 
 vineg:ir, and other diings, the liver ciioppexl, 
 a pint of Madeira, and three pints of veal 
 stock ; stew (hem an hour or two accord- 
 ing to their size; take out die fish and put 
 them o\er a pan of hot Avater to keep wann 
 while the fidlowing sauce is made: — Strain 
 the liquor, and add the yolks of three eggs 
 beaten, half a pint of cream, a large spoon- 
 ful of flour, and a quarter of a pound of 
 butter, stir it constantly, and just before 
 putting it over the carp, squeeze in the 
 juice of a lemon. Boil or fry the roe. 
 Plain boiled carp may Ix; served with this 
 sauce, and is dished in a napkin. , 
 
 CARP, FRIED. Qean and scale a 
 
CAU 
 
 45 
 
 CHA 
 
 carp; split it up the back; flatten the back- 
 bone, sprinkle your fish with flour, then 
 sprinkle the roes which have been put aside, 
 put the whole into a frying-pan made very 
 hot, fiy to a rich oolor, and serve it with 
 lemon-juice. 
 
 CARROT FRITTERS. Beat two or 
 three boiled carrots to a pulp with a spoon ; 
 add to tliem six eggs and a handful of flour ; 
 moisten them with either cream, milk, or 
 white wine, and sweeten them. Beat all 
 together well, and fry in boiling lard. When 
 of a good color, take them off and squeeze 
 on them the juice of a Seville orange, and 
 strew over fine sugar. 
 
 CARROT PUDDING. See Pudding. 
 
 CASSILE. Mix two table-spoonfuls of 
 potato-flour with two or tliree of cream or 
 good milk; boil for a few minutes with a 
 quart of cream or milk, the peel of a lemon 
 and a bit of cinnamon ; stir it with the flour 
 and cream ; sweeten, and stir it again over 
 the fire for three or four minutes ; pour it in- 
 to a mould ; turn it out when cold. 
 
 CAULIFLOWER. Choose those that 
 are close and white, and of the middle size ; 
 trim off the outside leaves ; cut the stalk off 
 flat at the bottom ; let them lie in salt and 
 water an hour before you boil them. Put 
 them into boiling water with a handful of 
 salt in it ; skim it well, and let it boil slow- 
 ly till done, which a small one will be in fif- 
 teen, a large one in about twenty minutes ; 
 take it up the moment it is enough, a min- 
 ute or two longer boiling will spoil it. 
 
 CAULIFLOWERS OR BROCCOLI, 
 PICKLED. Choose tliose that are hard, 
 yet sufficiently ripe, cut away the leaves and 
 stalks. Set on a stewpan half full of water, 
 salted in proportion of a quarter of a pound 
 of salt to a quart of water ; throw in tlie 
 cauliflower, and let it heat gi^adually ; when 
 it boils take it up with a spoon fiilJ of holes, 
 and spread them on a clotli to Ary before 
 tlie fire, for twenty-foui' hours at least; when 
 quite dry, put them, piece by piece, into 
 jars or glass tie-overs, and cover them with 
 tlie pickle we have directed for beet roots, 
 or make a pickle by infusing three ounces 
 of the curiy powder for tliree days in a quart 
 of vinegar by the side of the fire. Nastur- 
 tiums are excellent prepared as above. 
 
 CAULIFLOWERS, PICKLED. Cut 
 
 the cauiiflowere in pieces, and tlirow them 
 Into boiling water for a quarter of an hour ; 
 then lay them on cloths to drain. Put tliem 
 in a jar with cloves and salt, and cover 
 them with the l>est vinegar. 
 
 CAULIFLOWER SALAD. When 
 
 you have prepared and boiled the cauli- 
 flowers, drain and let theni cool ; cut tliem 
 in pieces; season them with salt, pepper, 
 oil and vinegar, and eat them as any other 
 salad. 
 
 CAUDLE. (1) Boil up half a pmt of 
 fine gruel, with a bit of butter the size of a 
 large nutmeg, a large spoonful of brandy, 
 the same of white wine, one of capillaire, a 
 piece of lemon-peel, and nutmeg. 
 
 CAUDLE. (2) Make a fine smooth 
 gruel of half-grits ; when boiled, strain it, 
 stir it at times till cold. When wanted for 
 use, add sugar, wine, and lemon-peel, with 
 some nutmeg. According to taste, you may 
 add, if you please, besides the wine, a spoon- 
 ful of brandy, or lemon-juice. 
 
 CAUDLE, BROWN. Boil the gruel 
 the same as for white caudle, widi six spoon- 
 fuls of oatmeal, and strain it ; llien add a 
 quart of good ale, not bitter ; boil it, then 
 sweeten it according to your taste, and add 
 half a pint of white wine. When you do 
 not put in the white wine, let it be half ale. 
 
 CAUDLE, COLD. Boil a quart of 
 spring water; when cold, add the yolk of 
 an egg, tlie juice of a small lemon, six sj)oon- 
 fids of sweet wine, sugar to yoiu- taste, and 
 one ounce of sirup of lemons. 
 
 CECILS. Mix over the fire for a few 
 minutes the following ingredients: minced 
 meat of whatever kind you please, bread 
 crumbs, plenty of onion, lemon-peel, nut- 
 meg, parsley chopped, pepper, salt, a little 
 butter, and some anchovies. When nearly 
 ! cold, roll them up into balls about the size 
 I of an egg ; moisten tliem with egg, strew 
 I bread crumbs over them, and fi*y tliem of a 
 I good clear color: serve them with made 
 gvary. 
 
 I CELERY, TO STEW. Wash and 
 clean some heads of celery, cut them into 
 I pieces of two or three inches long, boil 
 I them in veal stock till tender. To half a 
 I pint of cream add the well-beaten yolks of 
 I two eggs, a bit of lemon-peel, grated nut- 
 I meg, and salt, also a bit of butter; make it 
 hot, stirring it constantly ; strain it upon the 
 I celery ; heat it thoroughly, but do not let it 
 I boil. 
 
 I CHARLOTTE. (1) Cut a sufficient 
 I number of diin slices of white bread to cover 
 I the bottom and line tlie sides of a baking- 
 i dish, first rubbing it thickly witii Ixitter. 
 Put thin slices of apples into the dish in 
 1 layers, till the disli is full, strewing sugar 
 
CHE 
 
 46 
 
 CHE 
 
 and bits of butter between. In the mean- 
 time, soak as many thin slices of bread as 
 will cover the whole, in warm milk ; over 
 which place a plate, and a weight, to keep 
 the bread close upon the apples ; let it bake 
 slowly for three hours. For a middling- 
 sized dish, you should use half a pound of 
 butter for the A\'hole. 
 
 CHARLOTTE. (2) This second course 
 may be made of any kind of fruit you please, 
 and is eaten hot. If apples are used, pare, 
 core, and cut about twenty of them into 
 small pieces, and put them into a stewpan 
 witli some water, a good piece of fresh but- 
 ter, powder-sugar, poundted cinnamon, and 
 grated lemon-peel, and stew till the water is 
 dried up ; then set them to cool in an earth- 
 en waie vessel. Cut some veiy thin slices 
 of crumb of bread, dip them in melted fresh 
 butter, and lay them neatly all over tlie bot- 
 tom and round the sides of the stewpan; 
 then pour in the apples, leaving a hole in 
 the middle, in which put apricot marma- 
 lade. Cover the whole with bread, sliced 
 tliin, and buttered as above. Place it in a 
 hot oven, bake it an hour, and turn it out. 
 
 CHARLOTTE DES POMMES. Pare, 
 core, and mince fourteen or fifteen French 
 rennet apples ; put them into a frying-jjan, 
 with some pounded loaf sugar, a little pound- 
 ed cinnamon, grated leraon-peel, and two 
 ounces and a half of fresh butter ; fry them 
 a quarter of an hour over a quick fire, stir- 
 ring diem constantly. Butter a shape of 
 tlie size the charlotte is intended to be ; cut 
 strips of bread about the width of two fin- 
 gers, and long enough- to reach from the 
 bottom to die rim of the shape, so that the 
 whole be lined with bread ; dip each bit in- 
 to melted butter, and dien put a layer of 
 the fried apples, and one of apricot jam or 
 marmalade, and tlien one of bread dipped 
 into butter; begin and finish with it. Bake 
 it in an oven for nearly an hour ; turn it cut 
 to serve it. It may be boiled, and served 
 with a sweet sauce. 
 
 , CHEESE, BOILED. Grate a quarter 
 of a pound of good cheese, put it into a 
 sauce pan, with a bit of butter the size of a 
 nutmeg, and half a tea-cupful of milk, stir it 
 over the fire till it boil, and then add a well- 
 beaten egg ; mix it all together, put it into 
 a small dish, and brown it before the fire. 
 
 CHEESE, CAKE OF. Take about the 
 fourth part of a close, fat Brie cheese, pound 
 and rub it through a sieve ; mix with it a 
 pint and a half of flour ; lay it on the lx)ard, 
 make a .iole in the middle, into which put 
 three quarters of a pound of butter, and work 
 it in wpll; add to it a little Gruyere cheese I 
 
 grated, and six eggs. Knead these all to- 
 gether well ; mould it up, and let it stand 
 for half an hour ; then roll it out, and make 
 it into a cake of about three inches ; mark 
 it widi a knife on one side in chequei-s, and 
 on the other in rays ; do^ez, and bake it in 
 a moderate oven. 
 
 CHEESE CREAM. Warm three half 
 pints of cream with one half pint of milk, 
 or according to the same proportion, and 
 put a little rennet to it ; keep it covered in 
 a warm place till it is curdled ; have a pro- 
 per mould with holes, eitlier of China or any 
 other; put the curds into it to drain, about 
 an hour, or less: serve with a good plain 
 cream, and pounded sugar over it. 
 
 CHEESECAKES. (1) Put two quarts 
 of new milk into a stewpan, set it near the 
 fire, and stir in two table-spoonfiils of ren- 
 net: let it stand till it is set (this will take 
 about an hour) ; break it well with your 
 hand, and let it remain half an hour longer; 
 then pour off the whey, and put the curd into 
 a colander to drain ; when quite dry, put it 
 in a mortar, and pound it quite smooth; 
 then add four ounces of sugar, pounded and 
 sifted, and three ounces of fresh butter ; oil 
 it first by putting it in a little potting-pot, 
 and setting it near the fire ; stir it all well 
 together: beat the yolks of four eggs in a 
 basin, with a little nutmeg grated, lemon- 
 peel, and a glass of brandy; add this to the 
 curd, with two ounces of cuirants, washed 
 and picked ; stir it all well together ; have 
 your tins ready lined with puff paste about 
 a quarter of an inch thick, notch tliem all 
 round the edge, and fill each with die cm-d. 
 Bake them twenty minutes. When you 
 have company, and want a variety, you can 
 make a mould of curd and cream, by put- 
 ting the curd in a mould full of holes, instead 
 of the colander: let it stand for six horn's, 
 dien turn it out very carefully on a dish, and 
 pour over it half a pint of good cream sweet- 
 ened with loaf ^igar, and a little nutmeg. 
 What there is left, if set in a cool place, 
 will make excellent cheesecakes die next 
 day. 
 
 CHEESECAKES. (2) Put a spoonful 
 of rennet into a quart of milk ; when turned, 
 drain the curd through a coarse sieve, gent- 
 ly break the curd, and rub in a quarter of 
 a pound of butter, a quai-ter of a pound of 
 sugar, nutmeg, and two Naples biscuits 
 grated, the yolks of four eggs, and the white 
 of one, half an ounce of almonds, half bitter 
 and half sweet, well beaten in a mortar, 
 with two spoonftils of rose water, foui- ounces 
 ofcuiTants; put in die curd, and mix all 
 together. One quart of milk, and three 
 dessert spoonfiils of rice-flour, six eggs, leave 
 
CHE 
 
 47 
 
 CHE 
 
 out three of the whites, and currants to 
 your taste. 
 
 CHEESECAKES. (3) Beat eight 
 eggs well, while a quart of milk is on the 
 fire, and when it boils, put in the eggs, and 
 stir them till they come to a curd ; then pour 
 it out, and when it is cold, put in a little 
 salt, two spoonfuls of rose water, and tlu-ee- 
 quarters of a pound of currants well washed ; 
 put it into puff paste, and bake it. If you 
 use tin patties to bake in, butter diem, or 
 
 you 
 
 ^ill not be able to take them out ; but 
 
 if you bake them in glass or china, only an 
 upjjer crust will be necessary, as you will 
 not want to take than out when you send 
 them to table. 
 
 CHEESECAKES. (4) Take one pound 
 of loaf sugar jx)unded, six yolks, and four 
 whites of eggs beaten, the juice of tliree fine 
 lemons, the grated rind of two, and a quar- 
 ter of a pound of fresh butter ; put these in- 
 gredients into a saucepan, and stir the mix- 
 ture gently over a slow fire till it be of tJie 
 consistence of honey; poiur it into small 
 jars, and when cold put paper dipped in 
 brandy over them. It will keep good for a 
 year. 
 
 CHEESE, POUNDED. Cut a pound 
 of good mellow cheese into thin bits ; add 
 to it two, and if the cheese is dry, three 
 ounces of fresh butter ; pound, and rub them 
 well together in a mortar till it is quite 
 smootli. When cheese is dry, and for those 
 whose digestion is feeble, this is the best 
 way of eating it ; and spread on bread, it 
 makes an excellent luncheon or supper. 
 The piquance of diis is sometimes increas- 
 ed by pounding with it curi^y powder, ground 
 spice, black pepper, Cayenne, and a little 
 made mustard ; and some moisten it with a 
 glass of Sherry. If pressed down hard in 
 a jar, and covered with clarified butter, 
 it will keep for several days in cool weath- 
 er. II 
 
 CHEESE, ROASTED. Grate three 
 ounces of fat cheese, mix it widi the 
 yolks of two eggs, four ounces of grated 
 bread, and three ounces of butter ; beat the 
 whole well in a mortar, with a dessert spoon- 
 ful of mustard, and a little salt and pepper. 
 Toast some bread, cut it into proper pieces ; 
 lay the paste, as above, thick upon them, 
 put them into a Dutch oven covered with a 
 dish, till hot through, remove die dish, and 
 let the cheese brown a little. Serve as hot 
 as possible. 
 
 CHEESE, STEWED. Melt diree- 
 quarters of an ounce of butter in a tea-cup- 
 ful of cream, mix with it a quarter of a 
 
 pound of good cheese finely grated, beat it 
 well togeUier; put a slice of toasted bread 
 into a dish, and pour the mixture over it, 
 and brown it with a balamander. 
 
 CHEESE TOASTED, OR RABBIT. 
 
 Cut a slice of bread, toast it, and soak it 
 in red wine, put it before the fire ; cut some 
 cheese in very thin slices, and rub some but- 
 ter over the bottom of a plate, lay the cheese 
 upon it, and pour in two or three spoonfuls 
 of white wine, and a litde mustard ; cover 
 it with another plate, and set it on a chafing- 
 dish of coals two or diree minutes, then stir 
 it till it is well mixed ; when it is mixed 
 enough, lay it upon the bread, and brown it 
 with a salamander. 
 
 CHEESE TOASTED. Cut a slice of 
 bread about half an inch thick ; pare off the 
 crust, and toast it very slightly on one side 
 so as just to brown it, without making it 
 hard or burning it. Cut a slice of good 
 fat mellow cheese, a quarter of an inch 
 thick, not so big as the bread by half an 
 inch on each side: pare off the rind, cut out 
 all the specks and rotten parts, and lay it 
 on die toasted bread in a cheese-toaster; 
 carefully watch it that it does not burn, and 
 stir it widi a spoon to prevent a pellicle 
 forming on the surface. Have ready good 
 mustard, pepper and salt. If you observe 
 the directions here given, the cheese Avill 
 eat mellow, and will be uniformly done, 
 and the bread crisp and soft, and will well 
 deserve its ancient appellation of a " rare 
 bit." This Receipt, as well as every other 
 worth extracting, is from die Cook's Oracle. 
 Tlie Editor goes on to say. We have noth- 
 ing to add to the directions given for toast- 
 ing the cheese in the last receipt, except that 
 in sending it up, it will save much time in 
 portioning it out at table, if you have half a 
 dozen smull silver or tin paas to fit into the 
 cheese-toaster, and do the cheese in these: 
 each person may then be helped to a sepa- 
 rate pan, and it will keep die cheese much 
 hotter than the usual way of eating it on a 
 cold plate. Obs. — Ceremony seldom tri- 
 umphs more completely over comfort than in 
 the ser\'ing out of this dish; which, to be 
 presented to the palate in ))erfection, it is 
 imperatively indispensable that it be intro- 
 duced to die mouth as soon as it appears on 
 the table. 
 
 CHERRY BRANDY. (1) Pick and 
 bruise eight pounds of black maroons, and the 
 same quantity of small black cherries ; let them 
 stand for two months in a cask with six 
 gallons of brandy, two pounds of crushed 
 sugar, and a quart of sack well stirred to- 
 gether. At die end of that time it may \y 
 drawn off and botded. 
 
CHI 
 
 48 
 
 CHI 
 
 CHERRY BRANDY. (2) Choose 
 fine sound morella cherries, and having 
 taken off the stalks, place diem in layers 
 in glass jars; strew powder-sugar between 
 each layer, and cover them with brandy. 
 As soon as the cherries have imbibed the 
 brandy, pour in more, so as to keep them 
 constantly covered. 
 
 CHERRIES, DRIED. Take large 
 chen'ies, not too ripe ; pick off the stalks, 
 and take out the stones with a quill cut 
 nearly as for a pen : to three pounds of which 
 take three pounds or pints of clarified sugar ; 
 boil it to the degree of blown ; put in the 
 cherries, give them a boil, and set them by 
 in an eartlien pan till the next day; then 
 strain tlie sirup, add more sugar, and boil 
 it of a good consistence ; put die cherries in, 
 and boil them five minutes, and set them by 
 another day: repeat the boiling two more 
 days, and when wanted, drain them some- 
 time, and lay them on wire sieves to diy in 
 a stove, or nearly cold oven. 
 
 CHERRY PUDDING. See Puddings. 
 
 CHERVIL, Is principally used in soups 
 and stuffing, and is generally preserved with 
 other herbs as follows : take of sorrel, chervil, 
 beet, purslain, and cucumbers, if in season, 
 quantities according to your liking; wash 
 them well; mince and press them in your 
 hand, to squeeze out all the water. Put 
 them into a kettle widi water, some butter 
 and salt, and boil them until the water is 
 entirely consumed. Then take them out, 
 and when cold, put them into pots; cover 
 them with warmed butter. When you 
 want to use diese herbs, put them into some 
 stock that has very little salt in it. If they 
 ai'e required for a farce or garnish, boil them 
 a minute or two in some butter; thicken 
 with the yolks of eggs and milk; when so 
 prepared, they may be served under hard 
 eggs or broiled fish. For sauce, it must be 
 chopped small, boiled in salt and water, and 
 mixed widi melted butter. 
 
 CHESTN UTS, Should be placed on the 
 fire in a pan with holes to roast ; first slitting 
 or cutting a notch in the skins, to prevent 
 their flying off. When done, serve them in 
 dessert on a napkin, as hot as possible. 
 Some boil the chestnuts instead of roasting 
 tiiem, as die skins are then cleaner, but the 
 nuts not quite so mealy; the better way 
 is to boil them in plenty of water, and 
 when nearly done, take them out and roast 
 them. 
 
 CHICKENS. Having picked the chick- 
 ens, suige them well to remove all the hairs, 
 &€., which may remain on the skin; dien 
 
 braise the bone close to the foot, and draw 
 the strings from the thigh. Take out die 
 crop by a slit cut in the back of die neck ; 
 then cut off the neck, leaving skin enough to 
 turn over the back. Cut off the vent, and 
 take out the inside, being carefiil not to break 
 the gall ; break the back-bone and the two 
 bones leading to the pinions ; wipe the chick- 
 en widi a cloth, and put in a little pepper 
 and salt. If the chicken is to be tinissed for 
 roasting, proceed as follows: — Turn the legs 
 close down to the apron and run a skewer 
 through ; run another skewer in die joint of 
 one wing dirough the body to the other wing ; 
 and having washed die liver and gizzard, 
 place them in die pinions. For boiling, the 
 under part of the thigh must be cut, and the 
 legs placed under die api-on, only letting die 
 ends be seen. Be sure to preserve the breast 
 very full. 
 
 CHICKEN BROTH. See Broth. 
 
 CHICKENS, BROILED OR GRILL- 
 ED. Pick and singe them nicely, wash 
 them clean, and dry them in a cloth ; cut them 
 down the back, truss the legs and wings, as 
 for boiling ; flatten them, and put diem upon 
 a cold gridiron ; when they become a little 
 dry, put diem upon a plate, baste them with 
 butter, and strew a little salt and pepper 
 over the inside, which part is laid first upon 
 the gridiron ; baste them fi-equenlly, and let 
 them broil slowly for about half an how. 
 Serve them very hot, with melted butter 
 poured over tlieui, or plenty of stewed mush- 
 rooms. The livers and gizzards may be 
 broiled with them, fastened into the wings, 
 or well seasoned, broiled, and ser\ed widi 
 the chickens. 
 
 CHICKEN BAKED IN RICE. Cut 
 
 a chicken into joints as for a fi'icassee, sea- 
 son it well widi pepper and salt, lay it into a 
 pudding dish lined widi slices of ham or ba- 
 con, add a pint of veal gravy, and an onion 
 finely minced ; fi^l up the dit;li widi boiled 
 rice well pressed and piled as high as the 
 dish will hold, cover it with a paste of flour 
 and water ; bake it one hour, and before serv- 
 ing take off die paste. 
 
 CHICKENS BOILED. (1) Put the 
 chickens into a saucepan by diemselves, and 
 boil a small one for fifteen, a larger one 
 twenty minutes. 
 
 CHICKENS BOILED. (2) When they 
 are drawn and trussed, lay the chickens in 
 skim milk for about two hours; dien put 
 thein into cold water, cover them close, and 
 set 'them over a slow fire, and skim diem 
 well. As soon as they have boiled slowly, 
 take diem from die fire, and let diem remain 
 
CHI 
 
 49 
 
 CHI 
 
 in the water close covered for half an hour ; 
 then drain and ser\'e with white sauce. 
 
 CHICKEN, BROILED. Split a couple 
 of chickens, take out the inside and back- 
 bones, beat them with a wooden spoon, dip 
 them in clarified butter, and broil them, the 
 inside next the fire (which should te of 
 charcoal), and only turn them to color them. 
 When done, pour on them a sauce made as 
 foll<jvvs : — Boil some stewed mushrooms with 
 beef stock and plain sauce, an equal quanti- 
 ty of each, until of a proper consistence; 
 flavor it with lemon-juice and Cayenne pep- 
 per. 
 
 CHICKENS CHIRINGATE. Having 
 taken off the feet, beat the breast bones of 
 your chickens flat without breaking the skin, 
 flour and fry them in butter ; when of a nice 
 brown take all the fat from the pan, leaving 
 in the chickens, over which lay a pound of 
 gravy beef cut in thin slices, another piece 
 of beef also cut thin, some mace, cloves, 
 pepper, an onion, a carrot, and a bunch of 
 sweet herbs : pour a quart of boiling water 
 over the whole, cover it quite close, and let 
 it stew ; in a quai-ter of an hour take out 
 the chickens, but let the gravy continue 
 boiling, and when very rich strain it ; then 
 put it again into the pan with a little red 
 wine and a few mushrooms ; then put in the 
 chickens, and when they are hot, dish them 
 up, and pour the sauce over them ; garnish 
 with slices of lemon and broiled ham. 
 
 CHICKENS CREME. (1) Parboil a 
 couple of young chickens, cut them in pieces, 
 and throw into warm water for half an hour ; 
 then do them over the fire in a little fresh 
 butter, with salt, parsley, pepper, morels, 
 &c. sprinkle with flour, and dilute with a 
 glass of boiling water; cover the stewpan 
 close, and let it stand on hot ashes until the 
 water has soaked into the chicken, tlien add 
 half a pint of cream and a little butter. The 
 yolks of three eggs may be put in also, but 
 in tliat case, a small quantity of verjuice 
 should be put in before the cream. 
 
 CHICKENS CREME. (2) Stuff and 
 roast your chickens, and when you take diem 
 from the spit, rub them with butter, cover 
 them with bread-crumbs, wrap them in 
 slices of bacon, and bake them a short time ; 
 serve with well thickened cream-sauce. 
 
 CHICKEN CROQUETTES. (1) Re- 
 duce two spoonfuls of veloute or sauce tour- 
 nee, and add to it the yolks of four eggs; 
 put to this the white meat of a chicken 
 minced very small, and well mixed with the 
 sauce, take it out, and roll it into balls about 
 the size of a walnut ; roll them in bread- 
 5 
 
 crumbs, giving them an elongated form; 
 then dip them in some well-beaten egg, 
 bread them again, and firy them of a light 
 brown. 
 
 CHICKEN CROQUETTES. (2) Mix 
 
 well into some very thick bechamelle and 
 some glaze the breast of a chicken, some 
 tongue, truffles and mushrooms all minced 
 very small ; when quite cold roll them into 
 little balls about the size of a nut, and hav- 
 ing beaten up three eggs throw the balls into 
 them. Take them out quickly and roll them 
 in bread-crumbs; dip them a second time 
 into the eggs, and cover them again with 
 bread-crumbs ; fry them as other croquettes. 
 Lay fried parsley on a napkin in a dish, 
 place the croquettes on, and round it, and 
 
 CHICKEN CURRY. Take the skin 
 off, cut up a chicken, and roll each piece in 
 curiy-powder and flour (mixed together a 
 spoonful of flour to half an ounce of curry) 
 fiy two or three sliced onions in butter; 
 when of a light brown, put in the meat and 
 fi'y them together till the meat becomes 
 brown ; tlien stew them together witli a lit- 
 tle water for two or three hours. More 
 water may be added if too thick. 
 
 CHICKEN CAPILOTADE. Put into 
 a stewpan a little butter and flour; add 
 mushrooms, parsley, and shallots cut small, 
 dilute these witli equal quantites of stock, and 
 red or white wine. When the sauce is well 
 boiled, skim it ; cut a roasted fowl in pieces, 
 and put it into this sauce; stew it gently 
 for a quarter of an hour. Add some gherkins 
 cut in thin slices. 
 
 CHICKEN, COLD FRIED. Cut the 
 
 chicken in quarters, and take off the skin, 
 rub it with an egg beaten up, and cover it 
 with giated bread seasoned with pepper, 
 salt, grated lemon-j)eel, and chopped parsley, 
 fry it in butter, thicken a little brown gravy 
 with flour and butter, add a little Cayenne, 
 lemon pickle, and mushroom catchup. 
 
 CHICKENS FRICASSEED. Prepare 
 and cut up two chickens ; put them in a 
 stewpan with some butter, parsley, a bay- 
 leaf, thyme, basil, two cloves, mushroomg, 
 and a slice of ham ; let them stew till scarce- 
 ly any sauce remains, then add a little flour, 
 warm water, salt and pepper; stew it again 
 and reduce tlie sauce. When nearly done 
 put in the yolks of three eggs beaten op 
 with a little cream or milk ; Uiicken it over 
 the fu-e, but do not let it boil ; a small quan- 
 tity of lemon-juice or vinegar may be added. 
 Place the breasts and bones of the chickens 
 on a dish, lay the legs and wings over them, 
 
CHI 
 
 50 
 
 CHI 
 
 and then pour the sauce over the whole; 
 garnish with the mushrooms. Take off the 
 skins before you cut up the chickens if you 
 wish the fricassee very white. 
 
 CHICKEN FRITTERS. Make a bat- 
 ter with four eggs, some new milk, and 
 rice-flour; to this, add a pint of cream, pow- 
 der-sugai', candied lemon-peel cut small, 
 fresh lemon-peel grated, and the white parts 
 of a roasted chicken shred small; set all 
 these together on a stove, and stir well for 
 sometime ; when done, take it oflf, roll out 
 the mixture, cut it into flitters, and fry 
 them; strew sugar on a dish, lay in the 
 fritters, strew sugar over, and serve them 
 hot. 
 
 CHICKENS IN A MINUTE. Cut a 
 chicken in pieces, and put it in a stewpan 
 with a little butter; add to it some mush- 
 rooms, parsley, sprinkle flour over, and 
 shake them ; moisten it with stock or water, 
 and white w*"ne; when it has boiled once, 
 take it from the fire and put in the yolks of 
 one or two eggs, and a little vinegar or 
 lemon-juice. 
 
 CHICKENS AND OYSTERS. Fill 
 your chickens with young oysters cut small, 
 truflles, parsley, and spices, and roast them. 
 Blanch about two dozen young oysters, and 
 toss them up in some melted butter, with 
 chopped herbs and olive oil. When they 
 have been on tlie fire a quarter of an hour, 
 add a little white wine and half a glass of 
 good stock, tliicken it over the fire for an- 
 other quarter of an hour, and when the 
 chickens are ready to sei-ve, pour the sauce 
 on them, and garnish the dish with oysters 
 and some lemon. 
 
 CHICKEN PANADA. Boil a chicken 
 in a quart of water until nearly done ; tlien 
 skin it, cut off the white meat, and pound 
 it with a little of the liquor it was boiled in 
 to a thick paste; season it with salt, nut- 
 meg, and lemon-peel ; boil it up all together 
 for a few minutes. 
 
 CHICKEN AND HAM POTTED. 
 
 Sea^)n some pieces of chicken, witli mace, 
 cloves, and pepper, and bake them for about 
 tliree hours in a close covered pan with 
 some water ; dien pound tliem quite small, 
 moistening either with melted butter, or the 
 liquor they were baked in. Pound also 
 some ham, and put this with the chicken in 
 alternate kyers, in potting pans, press them 
 down tight, and cover them with butter. 
 
 CHICKEN PULLED. (1) Half roast 
 a chicken or fowl, skin and pull off in small 
 flakes all the white meat and the meat of the 
 
 legs, break the bones, and boil them in a 
 little water till the strength be drawn out, 
 strain it, and when it becomes cold skim 
 and put it into a sauce pan witli a little mace, 
 white pepper, and salt ; add a bit of butter 
 mixed with flour, and rather more than a 
 quarter of a pint of cream, then put in the 
 meat, and a little mushroom powder ; before 
 ser^'ing, add the squeeze of a lemon. 
 
 CHICKEN PULLED. (2) Pick all the 
 white meat from the bones of a cold roasted 
 fowl, cut ofl[tlie legs, and keep the back and 
 sidesmen in one. Score, and season the legs 
 and back with pepper and salt, and broil 
 them; warm up the white meat in some 
 sauce made of the bones boiled in a little 
 water, and which has been strained and 
 thickened with a piece of butter, mixed with 
 flour, a little milk, and tlie yolk of an egg 
 beaten up and seasoned with white pepper 
 and salt; serve the broiled back upon the 
 mince, and the legs at each end. 
 
 CHICKEN PIE. See Pie. 
 
 CHICKEN ROASTED. See Fowls. 
 
 CHICKENS, SCOTCH WAY. Cut 
 
 your chickens into quarters, put them into a 
 saucepan, with only just water enough to 
 cover them, a bunch of parsley, some chop- 
 ped parsley, and a little mace, cover them 
 close down, when it boils, add six eggs 
 well-beaten; when the chickens are done, 
 take out the parsley, and serve tliem in a 
 deep dish with the sauce. 
 
 CHICKENS AND TOMATA SAUCE. 
 
 Mix together, in a stewpan, a little butter, 
 salt, pepper, lemon-juice, and grated nut- 
 meg, a sufficient quantity to put in two chick- 
 ens; tie it in, and lay thin slices of lemon 
 on the breast of the chickens, and lay them 
 in a stewpan lined widi thin rashers of ba- 
 con; cover them with the same, and stew 
 them with fire above and below for three 
 quarters of an hour; when done, drain them 
 in a cloth ; untie them, and serve with toma- 
 ta sauce. 
 
 CHINA CHILO. Mince a pint basin 
 of undressed neck of mutton, or leg, and 
 some of tlie fat ; put two onions, a lettuce, a 
 pint of green peas, a tea-spoonful of pepper, 
 four spoonfuls of water, and two or three 
 ounces of clarified butter, into a st.wpan 
 closely covered ; simmer two hours, and serve 
 in the middle of a dish of boiled dry rice. If 
 Cayenne is approved, add a little. 
 
 CHILI, OR CAYENNE WINE. Pound 
 and steep fifty fresh red Chilies, or a quar- 
 ter of an ounce of Cayenne pepper, in half 
 
CHO 
 
 61 
 
 CHO 
 
 a pint of brandy, white wine, or claret, for 
 fourteen days. This is a " bonne bouche" 
 for tlie lovers of Cayenne, of which it takes 
 up a larger proportion of its flavor tlian of 
 its fire: which being instantly difldised, it is 
 a very useful auxiliary to warm and finish 
 soups, sauces, &c. 
 
 CHOCOLATE. According as you wish 
 to make this beverage, either with milk or 
 water, put a cup of one or other of these 
 liquids into a chocolate-pot, with one ounce 
 of cake chocolate. Some persons dissolve 
 the chocolate in a little water before they put 
 it into die milk. As soon as the milk or 
 water begins to boil, mill it. When the 
 chocolate is dissolved, and begins to bubble, 
 take it off the fire, letting it stand near it 
 for a quarter of an hour ; then mill it again 
 to make it frotliy ; afterwards serve it out 
 in cups. The chocolate must not be milled, 
 unless it is prepared witii cream. 
 
 CHOCOLATE CREAM. See Creams. 
 
 CHOCOLATE FROTHED OR WHIP- 
 PED. Put half a pound of chocolate to a 
 glass of water over a small fire, stirring it 
 with a wooden spoon until perfectly dissolv- 
 ed; tlien take it off and add six yolks of 
 eggs, a pint of double cream, and three 
 quarters of a pound of powder-sugar. Pour 
 tile whole into a pan, and when cold, whip 
 it up as directed. See Cream Frothed. 
 
 CHOCOLATE WINE. Take a pint of 
 Sherry, or a pint and a lialf of Port, four 
 ounces and a half of chocolate, six ounces of 
 fine sugar, and half an ounce of white starch, 
 or fine flour ; mix, dissolve, and boil all tliese 
 together for about ten or twelve minutes. 
 But if your chocolate is made with sugar, 
 take double the quantity of chocolate, and 
 half the quantity of sugar. 
 
 CHOPS OR STEAKS. Those who 
 are nice about steaks, never attempt to have 
 them, except in weather which permits the 
 meat to be hung till it is tender, and give the 
 butcher some days' notice of their wish for 
 them. If, friendly reader, you wish to enter- 
 tain your mouth widi a superlative beef-steak, 
 you must have the inside of die sirloin cut 
 mto steaks. The next best steaks are those 
 cut from the middle of a rump, that has been 
 killed at least four days in moderate weatlier, 
 and much longer in cold weather, when they 
 can be cut about six inches long, four inches 
 wide, and half an inch thick: do not beat 
 them, which vulgar trick breaks the cells in 
 which the gravy of the meat is contained, 
 and it becomes dry and tasteless. N. B. — 
 If your butcher sends steaks which are not 
 tender, we do not insist that you should 
 
 object to let him be beaten. Desire the 
 butcher to cut them of even tliickness; if he 
 does not, divide die thicker from the thinner 
 pieces, and give tlieni time accordingly. 
 
 CHOWDER. Lay some slices cut from 
 the fet part of a belly-piece of pork, in a 
 deep stewpan, mix sliced onions witli a 
 variety of sweet lierl)s, and lay them on the 
 pork. Bone and cut a fresh cod into thin 
 slices, and place them on the pork ; then put 
 a layer of pork, on that a layer of biscuit, 
 then alternately the other materials until the 
 pan is nearly full, season with pepper and 
 salt, put in about a pint and a half of water, 
 lay a paste over the whole, cover die stewpan 
 very close, and let it stand, wiUi fire above 
 as well as below, for four hours ; then skim 
 it well, and put it in a dish, pour a glass of 
 Madeira made hot over it, also some Jamaica 
 pepper, stewed mushrooms, trufiles, and 
 oysters ; brown die paste slightly, and lay it 
 over the whole. 
 
 CHOWDER FOR TEN OR TWTELVE. 
 
 Take of salt pork cut in thin slices, as much 
 as will make half a pint of fat, when tried, 
 which will do for two good sized cod or 
 haddock. Be careful not to bm-n the fat. 
 First, put your fat in die pot. Secondly, 
 cut your fish in as large pieces as will go 
 into the pot ; then put a layer of fish on the 
 fat ; pepper, salt and a few cloves, then a 
 layer of the slices of pork, strewed over with 
 onions cut fine ; then a layer of shipbread 
 or hard crackers dipped in water ; Uien your 
 thickening. Go on again with fish, &c. &c. 
 as above, till your pot is nearly full, then put 
 in. water until you can just see it, and let it 
 stew slowly, so as not to break die fish. 
 After coming to a boil, it will be done in 
 twenty-five or thirty minutes. N. B. — Some 
 like potatoes cut in slices, which may lie in- 
 ti-oduced between each layer. Likewise 
 wine or cider, as you fancy. Qcf=This 
 Receipt is according to the most approved 
 method, practised by fishing parties in Bo»- 
 ton harbor. 
 
 CHOWDER, CLAM, May be made in 
 die same way, substituting a sufficient 
 quantity of clams instead of cod, the heads 
 or hard leadiery part being first cut off 
 Many prefer clam chowdei-, nicely cooked, 
 to chowder made of cod, haddock, &c. 
 The pilgdms to Plymouth, it is said, could 
 cook diis shell fish and lobsters m nearly 
 fifty different ways, and even as puddings, 
 pancakes, &c. 
 
 CHOUX. Put a pint of water into a 
 stewpan, with half a pound of fresh butter, 
 the rinds of two lemons grated, a quarter 
 of a pound of sugar, and a very little salt; 
 
coc 
 
 52 
 
 COD 
 
 as SDon as tlie water begins to boil, add as 
 much flour as tlie liquor will imbibe ; when 
 tlie paste becomes very tliick, keep stirring 
 with a spoon until quite done, then let it 
 cool. After tliat, break into it a sufliciaiit 
 number of eggs to make the paste soft ; taking 
 care that it be firm enough to allow you to 
 work it up with the hand ; when it may be 
 formed according to fancy. This paste may 
 be glazed and garnished either with almonds 
 or pistachio nuts ; when baking the choux, 
 be careful to keep the oven tightly closed. 
 
 CITRON CHEESECAKES. Boil a 
 pint of cream, and when cold, mix with it 
 two eggs well-beaten ; tlien boil them togeth- 
 er until they become a curd. Beat a few 
 blanched almonds in a mortar, with a little 
 orange-flower water ; put them to the cuid, 
 and add some Naples biscuits and green cit- 
 ron, chopped \evy small. Sweeten, and bake 
 in tins. 
 
 CITRON PUDDING. See Puddings. 
 
 CLARET PUFFS. Mix together, and 
 sweeten with pounded loaf sugar, a pint of 
 claret, and ratlier more than one of rich 
 cream ; let it stand a night, and dien whisk 
 it to a froth, which take off as it rises, and 
 put upon the back of a sieve to drain ; heap 
 it upon a dish, sweeten some rich cream, 
 and pour it round the froth, to make it float. 
 
 CLOVE, ESSENCE OF. Infuse a 
 di'achm of oil of cloves in two ounces of 
 the -strongest spirits of wine, apothecary's 
 
 CLOVE WATER. Mix a little cinna- 
 mon widi the cloves, or the scent will be 
 too strong ; allow half a score of cloves to a 
 quart of water ; put in a good piece of 
 sugar; let them infuse some time over hot 
 embers, or in a warm place ; tlien strain it 
 for use. 
 
 COBBLER. Name given to bread 
 toasted on one side only. 
 
 COCHINEAL PREPARED. Pound 
 an ounce of cochineal to a very fine powder, 
 pound also an ounce of cream of tartar, and 
 two drachms of alum; put these ingredients 
 into a saucepan with half a pint of water ; 
 when it boils take it from tlie firfe, and let 
 it cool ; pour it off into a bottle, as free from 
 isediment as possible, and set it by for use. 
 
 COCOA. Put i^o a saucepan one ounce 
 of good cocoa and onk quart of water ; cover 
 it, and when it boils, set it by die side of the 
 fire to simmer for two hours. It is some- 
 times made in a larger quantity, poui-ed 
 
 fi-om the sediment, and boiled up as it is re- 
 quired. 
 
 COCOA-NUT SWEETMEAT. (1) 
 
 Cut die nut out of the shell, pare it carefully, 
 and throw it into cold water; then giate it, 
 and boil it in clarified sugar, (a pound to each 
 pound of the cocoa-nut) until quite thick; 
 stir it frecjuently to prevent its burning. 
 Then pour it on a well buttered dish or mai'- 
 ble slab, and cut it into whatever forms you 
 tliink proper. 
 
 COCOA-NUT SWEETxMEAT. (2) 
 
 Proceed as above, but do not boil die sugar 
 so thick by a great deal ; then stir into it 
 whilst hot die yolks of six eggs; diis must 
 be served in jelly glasses. 
 
 COD. A cod-fish should be firm and 
 white, the gills red, and die eye lively; a 
 fine fish is vei-y thick about the neck; if the 
 flesh is at all flabby it is not good. Cod is 
 in its prime during die mondis of October 
 and November, if the weather be cold ; from 
 die latter end of March to May, cod is also 
 veiy fine. The length of time it requires 
 for boiling depends on the size of die fish, 
 which varies from one pound to twenty ; a 
 small fish, about two or three pounds weight 
 will be sufficiently boiled in a quarter of an 
 hour or twenty minutes after the water boils. 
 Prepare a cod for dressing in the fJjllowing 
 manner: — empty and wash it dioroughly, 
 scrape off all the scales, cut ojien the l>elly, 
 and wash and diy it well, rub a little salt 
 inside, or lay it for an hour in strong brine. 
 The simple way of dressing it is as follows : — 
 Tie up the head, and put it into a fish-kettle, 
 with plenty of water and salt in it; boil it 
 gently, and serve it with oyster sauce. Lay 
 a napkin under the fish, and garnish wiUi 
 slices of lemon, horse-radish, &c. 
 
 COD BAKED. (1) Soak a fine piece 
 of the middle of fresh cod in melted butter, 
 widi parsley and sweet herbs shred very fine ; 
 let it stand over die fire for sometime, and 
 dien bake it. Let it be of a good color. 
 
 COD BAKED. (2) Choose a fine large 
 cod, clean it well, and open the under part 
 to the bone, and put in a stufling made with 
 beef suet, parsley, sweet herbs slwed fine, an 
 egg, and seasoned w itli salt, pepper, nutmeg, 
 mace and grated lemon-peel ; put this inside 
 die cod, sew it up, wraji it in a buttered pa- 
 per, and bake it; baste it well with melted 
 buttei-. 
 
 COD, TO CRIMP. Cut a fresh cod in- 
 to slices or steaks ; lay them for three hours 
 in salt-and-water, and a glass of vinegar: 
 when they may be boiled, fried, or broiled 
 
COF 
 
 53 
 
 COF 
 
 CXDD PIE. See Pie, 
 
 COD SOUNDS. This ia the white skin 
 of the belly, and is reckoned a great delica- 
 cy, and may be either boiled, broiled, or 
 fried. Previous to dressing either way, they 
 should be well soaked, washed, and boiled a 
 little. 
 
 COD SOUNDS, Boiled with Gra- 
 vy. Scald thera in hot water, and rub them 
 well with salt ; blanch them, that is, take off 
 tlie blacked dirty skin, then set them on in 
 cold water, and let them sinuner till they 
 begin to be tender ; take them out, flour, and 
 broil them on the gridiron. In the mean- 
 time, take a little g^d gra\7, a little mus- 
 tard, a little bit of butter rolled in flour, give 
 it a boil, season it with pepper and salt. 
 Lay the sounds in your dish, and pour the 
 sauce over them. 
 
 COD SOUNDS, BROILED. Let them 
 lie in boiling water till it is nearly cold, rub 
 them with salt, and pull off" the black and 
 dirty skin, boil tliem in hot water, drain, 
 and dust them with flour, rub them over 
 with butter, season with white pepper and 
 salt, and broil them. Put a table-spoonful 
 of catchup, half a one of soy, and a little Cay- 
 enne, into melted butter, heat and pour it over 
 them. 
 
 COD SOUNDS, Roasted or Baked. 
 Wash and clean four or five cod sounds, and 
 boil them till nearly done in milk-and-water ; 
 when cold, make a forcemeat of bread 
 crumbs; a piece of butter, salt, nutmeg, 
 white pepper, and some chopped oysters; 
 beat up the yolks of two eggs to bind it, lay 
 it over the sounds, roll them up, and fasten 
 with a small skewer, baste them with melted 
 butter, and roll them in finely grated bi-ead 
 crumbs seasoned with pepper and salt; put 
 tliem on a tin in a Dutch oven, turn and 
 baste them with a feather dipped in melted 
 butter, and strew over bread crumbs as be- 
 fore ; when done, and of a nice brown, serve 
 them witli oyster sauce in the dish. 
 
 COD'S HEAD AND SHOULDERS, 
 TO Boil. Wash it clean; tie it up, and 
 dry it with a cloth. Allow in the propor- 
 tion of every three measures of water, one of 
 salt; when it boils take off the scum; put 
 in the fish, and keep it boiling very fast for 
 twenty-five or thirty minutes. Serve witli 
 the roe and milt parboiled, cut into slices, 
 and fried, and garnish witli curled parsley 
 and horse-radish. Sauces ;-r-oyster, melted 
 butter, or anchovy butter. 
 
 COFFEE. The coffee-pot should be 
 three parts full of boiling water ; tlie coffee 
 5* 
 
 is to be added a spoonfiil at a time, and well 
 stirred between each ; then boil gently, still 
 stirring to prevent the mixtui-e from boiling 
 over as the coffee swells, and to force it into 
 combination with the water, this will be ef- 
 fected in a few minutes, after which, the 
 most gentle boiling must be kept up during 
 an hour. The coffee must then be removed 
 from the fire to settle, one or two spoonful* 
 of cold water thrown in assists the clarifica- 
 tion, and precipitates the grounds. In about 
 an hour, or as soon as the liquor has become 
 clear, it is to be poured into another vessel, 
 taking care not to disturb the sediment. 
 Coffee made in this manner will be of the 
 finest flavor, and may be kept three days 
 in summer, and fom* or five in winter ; when 
 ordered for use, it only requires heating in 
 the coffee-pot, and may Ije served up at two 
 minutes' notice. Coffee should never be 
 roasted but at the precise time of its being 
 used, and then it should be watched with 
 the greatest care, and made of a gold color 
 rather than a brown one ; above all, take care 
 not to burn it, for a veiy few grains bunit 
 will be sufficient to communicate a bitter 
 and rancid taste to several pounds of coffee. 
 It is the best way to roast it in a roaster, 
 (over a charcoal fire), which turns with the 
 hand, as by that means it is not forgot, which 
 often is the case when on a spit before the 
 fire. 
 
 COFFEE, French method of 
 preparing. 1st. Let your coffee be dry, 
 not in the least mouldy or damaged. — 2d. 
 Divide the quantity that is to be roasted into 
 two parts. — 3d. Roast the first part in a 
 coffee- roaster, the handle of which must be 
 kept constantly turning until the coffee be- 
 comes the color of dried almonds or bread- 
 raspings, and has lost one eigiith of its 
 weight. — 4th. Roast the second part until 
 it assumes die fine brown color of chestnuts, 
 and has lost one fifth of its weight. — 5th. 
 Mix the two parts together, and grind tliem 
 in a coffee mill, — 6!.h. Do not roast or make 
 your coffee until the day it is wanted. — 7th. 
 To two ounces of ground coffee, put four 
 cups of cold water. Draw oft' this infusion, 
 and put it aside. — 8th. Put to the coffee 
 which remains in the biggin, three cups o( 
 boiling water, tlien drain it off and add this 
 infusion to that which has been put aside. 
 By this metiiod you obtain three cups more. 
 When your coffee is wanted, heat it quickly 
 in a silver coffee-pot, taking care not to let 
 it boil, that the perfume may not be lost b^ 
 undergoing any evaporation. Then pour it 
 into cups, which each person may sweeten 
 according to his taste. Particular care 
 should be takeri not to make coffee in a tin 
 vessel ; it should be made eidier in a China 
 vessel, or one of Delft ware, or in one of 
 
COL 
 
 54 
 
 cou 
 
 silver. For a long time, the tin biggins, in- 
 vented by Monsieur de Belloy, were made 
 use of; but some person has since improved 
 upon his plan, by making them of silver or 
 porcelain, which are found to be much better. 
 
 COFFEE CREAM. (1) Mix three 
 cups of good coffee with one pint of cream, 
 and sugar according to taste ; boil them to- 
 gether, and reduce them about one-third ; 
 obser^'e that the coffee must be done as if it 
 was for drinking alone, and settled very clear, 
 before you mix it widi the cream. 
 
 COFFEE CREAM. (2) Boil a calf's 
 foot in water till it wastes to a pint of jelly ; 
 clear off the sediment and fiit. Make a tea- 
 cup of very strong coffee ; clear it with a 
 bit of isinglass, to be perfectly bright; pom- 
 it to the jelly, and add a pint of very good 
 cream, and as much fine Lisbon sugar as is 
 pleasant; give one boil up, and pour into 
 the dish. It should jelly, but 'not be stiff. 
 Obser\'e that your cofl'ee be fi-esb. 
 
 COLLOPS. Cut some veal cutlets ; fry 
 them a good brown, but not too much ; take 
 some g(K)d gravy, diicken it with a little 
 flour, boil it a few minute? ; add Cayenne, 
 catchup, truffles, morels, salt, mushrooms 
 pickled, grated lemon-peel ; simmer this up, 
 just heat the ccllops through, add what gravy 
 came from them, but do not let them boil, or 
 they will be hard; add forcemeat balls, hard 
 yolk of eggs ; lay round little slices of ba- 
 con, notched and toasted, and sliced lemon. 
 
 COLLOPS, MINCED. Cut two 
 pounds of lean tender beef into thin slices — 
 it is best taken from off die rump, or round ; 
 mince it vei"y finely; brown two ounces of 
 butter in a frying-pan, dredging it with a 
 little flour, then add the minced meat, and 
 keep beating it with a beater till of a nice 
 brown color. Have ready some highly-sea- 
 soned beef ^ravy, which, with the minced 
 collo})s, put into a saucepan, and let it stew 
 half an hour ; and just before serving, put a 
 table-spoonful of mushroom catchup, and, if 
 liked, some green pickles. Beef suet is as 
 often used as 'butter to fry the col lops in. 
 
 COLLOPS, RUSSIAN. Break four eggs 
 into a stevvpan, and mix with them two 
 spoonfuls of flour, dien half a glass of good 
 cream, a spoonful of warm butter, and a 
 grain of salt ; when these ai'e well mixed to- 
 gether, pour some of it into a large fi^ing-pan, 
 and fry it of a light color on both sides; 
 then taike it out, and fi-y more in the same 
 way, like pancakes, until you have a dozen 
 very Uiin, cut each in half, and trim them 
 into oblong pieces all die same size: lay on 
 each some quenelle, minced fowl or game. 
 
 as if for croquettes; wrap the fried batter 
 round it, wetting the ed^es, that they may 
 adhere properly, with a little of the batter, 
 having reserved some for the purpose ; then 
 have ready beaten, six eggs and a little salt, 
 mask them widi bread-crumbs, fry diem of a 
 good color, and serve them quickly. 
 
 COLLOPS, SCOTCH. Cut veal cut- 
 lets (taken from the fillet) into small thin 
 pieces, and fry them in a little boiling lard 
 till of a light brown color. Drain diem dry, 
 put them into a stevvpan, add cullis, stewed 
 mushrooms, some blanched truffles, morels, 
 pieces of artichoke bottoms, some slices of 
 throat sweetbreads, and egg balls. Let 
 diem simmer over a j^ow fu'e till tender, 
 season to the palate, and serve them with 
 rashers of broiled bacon round them. 
 
 COLD MEAT BROILED, WITH 
 
 Poached Eggs. The inside of a sirloin 
 of beef is best for this dish, or a leg of mut- 
 ton. Cut the slices of even and equal diick- 
 iiess, and broil and brown them caiefully 
 and slightly over a clear smart fire, or in a 
 Dutch oven ; give those slices most fire that 
 are least done ; lay them in a dish before die 
 fire to keep hot, while you poach the eggs, 
 and mash potatoes. 
 
 COLORING FOR JELLIES, Cakes, 
 &c. For a beautiful red, boil fifteen grains 
 of cochineal in the finest powder, with a 
 drachm and a half of cream of taitar, in 
 half a pint of water very slowly, half an 
 hour. Add, in boiling, a bit of alum the 
 size of a pea. Or use lieet-nwt sliced, and 
 some liquor pouted over. For white, use 
 almonds finely {X)wdered with a little drop 
 of water ; or use cream. For yeflotv, yolks 
 of eggs, or a bit of saffron steeped in die li- 
 quor, and squeezed. For green, jxjund 
 spinach-leaves, or beet-leaves, express the 
 juice, and boil a tea-cupful in a saucepan 
 of water, to take off the rawness. 
 
 CONSOMME. Take eight or ten 
 pounds of be(;f-steaks, eiglit old hens, two 
 young ones, and four knuckles of veal ; put 
 these into a large pot, and fill it with stiong 
 broth; skim it well, cooling it three or four 
 times to make the scum rise, after \>liich let 
 it boil gently ; put into the pot carrots, tw- 
 nips, onions, and three cloves. When yotu- 
 meat is sufficiently .done, pass the liquor 
 through a fine napkin or silk sieve, that it 
 may be very clear. No salt need be put in 
 if strong broth be used. 
 
 COUGLAUFFLE, GERMAN. Take 
 
 three pounds of flour, an ounce and a half 
 of yeast, an ounce of fine salt, a quarter of a 
 pomid of sugar, twelve eggs, die yolks of 
 
cou 
 
 55 
 
 CRA 
 
 twelve more, two pounds of fresh butter, 
 three glasses of milk, and a quarter of a 
 pound of sweet almonds. Proceed with 
 these materials in the following manner: — 
 put the butter (having slightly wanned half 
 a pound of it), into a glazed pan, and with 
 a large wooden spoon work it up for six or 
 seven minutes ; then put in two whole eggs, 
 and stir it two minutes ; then add three yolks, 
 and stir again two minutes; in this manner 
 put in the whole number of eggs and yolks; 
 which will produce a kind of smooth cream. 
 Then by degrees mix in two pounds of the 
 flour, dissolve the yeast in a glass of warm 
 milk, sti'ain it through a napkin, stir this in 
 well, with another half pound of flour; 
 make a hollow in the paste, in which put 
 tlae salt and sugar in powder; afterwards 
 pour on it a glass of hot milk, and mix the 
 whole together with the remainder of the 
 flour; continue to work it up for some min- 
 utes after the whole ingredients are put in, 
 adding a small quantity of warm milk, which 
 will render it smooth. Have a mould ready, 
 butter it, and lay the sweet almonds, each 
 cat in half, over the bottom of tlie mould, in 
 forms, on which pour the paste carefully, 
 and in small quantities, so as not \o derange 
 the almonds. Place your mould m a warm, 
 but not a hot place, that the cake may rise 
 projjcrly ; and when tliat operation has taken 
 place, put it into a moderate oven, which 
 should be kept closed; in an hour's time 
 look at the Couglauffle, and if it be flexible, 
 and of a light color, let it remain thirty or 
 forty minutes longer ; but if it be firm and 
 red it is sufficiently done; when taken from 
 the mould, put it into the oven again for a 
 few minutes. 
 
 COUGLAUFFLES, SMALL. To 
 
 make a dozen small couglauffles, take three 
 quarters of a |>ound of flour, three drachms 
 of yearit, two of salt, two whole eggs, three 
 yolks, two ounces of sugar, a little cream, 
 and half a pound of butter. The prepara- 
 tion is made tlie same as the German Cou- 
 glauffle. When the paste is made, divide 
 it into twelve equal parts; butter a dozen 
 stnall biscuit moulds, and fill each with your 
 preparation, and let them stand: when risen 
 8o as to fill the moulds, put them into a 
 brisk oven, and take them out as soon as 
 they are of a light color. 
 
 COUQUES. Put into a saucepan the 
 yolks of sixteen eggs, the rinds of two lem- 
 ons, half an ounce of salt, and two ounces 
 of sugar; on these pour a pint of boiling 
 cream, stirring it quick ; set it on the fire, 
 but do not let it boil, strain it through a 
 bolting, and then let it cool; take two 
 pounds of flour, and make a quarter of it 
 
 into leaven with half an ounce of yeast and 
 a little warm water, keep it rather moist, 
 and put it into a warm place to rise: in the 
 meantime, make the remainder of the flour 
 into a paste, with the cream and a quarter 
 of a pound of butter, knead it up five or six 
 times; then put in the leaven, and knead it 
 again twice; tie it up in a floured clotli, and 
 set it in a warm place. In about two hours 
 take it out, and cut the paste in pieces tlie 
 size of an egg, form them to that shape, and 
 lay them on a baking tin, and leave them 
 for half an hour to rise, then gild and 
 bake them in a hot oven ; when done, open 
 each on one side, take out a little of the 
 crumb, in the place of which put a bit of 
 butter worked up with a little salt, and 
 serve them. 
 
 COURT BOUILLON. Cut a proper 
 quantity of carrots, onions, celeiy, and tur- 
 nips, and put them into a saucepan widi 
 butter, parsley, garlic, thyme, basil, salt, a 
 mignonette and cloves ; sweat them over a 
 gentle fire; add white wine, vinegar or 
 verjuice ; boil, and then strain it, and serve 
 it with whatever you may require it for. 
 It is generally used for fish. 
 
 COURT BOUILLON for all 
 SORTS OF Fresh Water Fish. Put 
 some water into a fish-kettle, with a quart 
 of white wine, a slice of butter, salt, pepper, 
 a large bunch of parsley and young onions, a 
 clove of garlic, thyme, bay-leaves, and basil 
 all tied together, some sliced onions and 
 some carrots ; boil the fish in tliis court 
 bouillon, (which will serve for several times) 
 and do not scale it ; when the fish will ad- 
 mit of it, take care to boil it wrapped in a 
 napkin, which makes it more easy to take 
 out without danger of breaking. 
 
 COW-HEEL, In the hands of a skilful 
 cook, will fin-nish several good meals; when 
 boiled tender, cut it into handsome pieces, 
 egg and bread-cinimb them, and fry them a 
 light brown; lay them round a dish, and put 
 in the middle of it sliced onions fi-ied, or the 
 accompaniments ordered for tripe. The 
 liquor they were boiled in will make 
 soups. 
 
 CRACKNELS. Mix a quart of flour, 
 half a nutmeg grated, the yolks of four eggs 
 beaten, with four spoonfiils of rosewater, into 
 a stiff paste, with cold water ; then rub in a 
 pound of butter, and make into a cracknel 
 shape; put tliem into a kettle of l?oiling 
 water, and boil them till they swim ; then 
 take them out, and put them into cold water; 
 when hardened, lay them out to dry, and 
 bake them on tin plates. 
 
CRE 
 
 56 
 
 CRE 
 
 CRACKNELS, small soft. Blanch 
 half a pound of sweet almonds, and pound 
 tliem to a fine paste, adding to them by de- 
 grees six eggs ; when thoroughly pounded, 
 pour on them a pound of powder-sugar, the 
 same of butter, and the rinds of two lemons 
 grated; beat up these ingredients in the 
 mortar: put a pound of flour on a slab, and 
 having poured the almond pziste on it, knead 
 them together until tliey are well incorporat- 
 ed ; roll it out, and cut the cracknels into 
 such forms as you may think proper, rub 
 tliem with yolk of egg, and strew over them 
 powder-sugar or ciimamon: then lay them 
 on a buttered tin, and bake them in a mode- 
 rate oven, taking great care that they do not 
 burn. When done, put them into glasses, 
 and if preserved in a dry place they are the 
 better for keeping. 
 
 CRANBERRIES, Different ways 
 OF DRESSING. For pies and puddings, 
 with a good deal of sugar. Stewed in a 
 jar, with the same ; this way they eat well 
 with bread, and are very wholesome. Thus 
 done, pressed, and strained, the juice makes 
 a fine drink for people in fevers. 
 
 CREAM, ALMOND. Blanch and 
 pound to a paste, with rose water, six 
 ounces of almonds, mix them with a pint 
 and a half of cream which has been boiled 
 with the peel of a small lemon ; add two 
 well-beaten eggs, and stir the whole over 
 the fire till it be thick, taking care not to 
 allow it to boil ; sweeten it, and when near- 
 ly cold, stir in a table-spoonful of orange- 
 flower or rose water. 
 
 CREAM, APPLE. (1) Boil twelve 
 large apples in water till soft, take off" the 
 peel, and press the pulp through a hair sieve 
 upon half a pound of pounded loaf sugar ; 
 whip the whites of two eggs, add them to 
 the apples, and beat all together till it be- 
 comes very stiff, and looks quite white. 
 Serve it heaped up on a dish. 
 
 CREAM, APPLE. (2) Peel and core 
 five large apples ; boil them in a little water, 
 till soft enough to press through a sieve; 
 sweeten, and beat with them the whisked 
 whites of five eggs. Serve it with cream 
 poured round it. 
 
 CREAM, ARROW-ROOT. Mix a ta- 
 ble-spoonful of aiTow-root with a tea-cupful 
 of cold water ; let it settle, and pour the wa- 
 ter off. Sweeten and boil a quart of milk 
 with the peel of a lemon and some cinnamon ; 
 pick them out, and pour it boiling upon the 
 arrow-root, stirring it well and frequently 
 till it be cold. Serve it in a glass or china 
 dish, with or without grated nutmeg on the 
 
 top. It may be eaten with any preserved 
 fruit, or fruit tarts. 
 
 CREAM, BACCHIC. Put a pint and a 
 half of white wine, with some lemon-peel, 
 coriander seed, a bit of cinnamon, and three 
 ounces of sugar, into a stewpan, and let 
 them boil a quarter of an hour; tlien mix 
 half a tea-spoonful of flour with the yolks of 
 six eggs in another stewpan, and stir in by 
 degrees the other previously boiled ingre- 
 dients. When about half cold, strain the 
 whole through a sieve and put it in a dish 
 in hot water, over the fire, till the cream is 
 set ; lastly, take it out, and put it in a cool 
 place till ready to serve. 
 
 CREAM, BARLEY. Boil a small quan- 
 tity of pearl barley in milk and water, till 
 tender, strain oflf the liquor, and put tlie 
 barley into a quart of cream, to boil a little. 
 Then take the whites of five eggs and the 
 yolk of one, beat them with one spoonful of 
 flour, and two of orange-flower water. Take 
 the cream from the fire, mix the eggs in by 
 degrees, and set it over the fire again to 
 thicken. Sweeten it, and pour into cups or 
 glasses for use. 
 
 CREAM, BURNT. Boil a pint of cream 
 with tbe peel of a lemon, sweeten it with 
 pounded loaf sugar ; beat, with the yolks of 
 six, and whites of four eggs, one table-spoon- 
 ful of flour, the same of orange-flower w ater 
 and of ratafia; strain tlie cream, and when 
 nearly cold, mix it with the eggs and otlier 
 things ; stir it over the fire till it becomes as 
 thick as a custard ; put it into the dish it is 
 to be served in. Boil with a little water 
 some pounded loaf sugar, till it turn brown, 
 but do not stir it till taken off the fire ; by 
 degrees pour it in figures over the top of the 
 cream. It may be eaten hot or cold. 
 
 CREAM CAKES. See Cakes. 
 
 CREAM, CHOCOLATE. (1) Take 
 a pint of milk, a gill of cream, the ynlks of 
 three eggs, and five ounces of povv der sugiir, 
 mix these ingredients together, set them on 
 the fire, stir it constantly, and let it boil till 
 reduced to a quarter ; then add two ounces 
 of grated chocolate ; and having boiled a lit- 
 tie longer, strain it, and let it cool. Serve 
 it cold. 
 
 CREAM, CHOCOLATE. (2) Take 
 about half a cake of chocolate, bruise it to 
 pieces, put it in a stewpan widi a little milk, 
 and stir it over a gentle fire till it looks 
 smooth and thick; then add a little more 
 milk, and stir it again over the fire; con- 
 tinue this till it takes tlie thickness of cream; 
 
CRE 
 
 57 
 
 CRE 
 
 sweeten it to your palate with clarified su-' 
 gar; stir in a little tiiick cream with a very 
 Uttle isinglass, rub it through the tammy, 
 and set it in the mould. 
 
 CREAM CUSTARD. See Custard. 
 
 CREAM FRITTERS. Mix a handful 
 of flour, with three whole eggs, and the yolks 
 of six, four pounded macaroons, some dried 
 orange-flowers, browned in sugar, a little 
 candied lemon-peel chopped veiy fine, half 
 a pint of cream, half a pint of milk, and a 
 lump of sugar ; boil die whole over a gentle 
 fire for a quarter of an hour, till the cream 
 turns to a thick paste ; then let it cool in a 
 dish well floured, shaking flour all over it. 
 When cold, cut the paste into small pieces, 
 roll them in your hands till diey become 
 round, and fry them of a good color; when 
 you serve them, piowder them all over with 
 sugar. 
 
 CREAM FROTH. Put a pint of fresh 
 double cream into a stone pan, with half a 
 pound of powder sugar, a pinch of gum 
 dragon, a little crisped orange-flower, and 
 three drops of cedrat essence ; when the su- 
 gar is dissolved, place the pan in another, in 
 which is three pounds of ice beaten up with 
 saltpetre ; whip die cream in Uie usual man- 
 ner, taking off" the froth as it rises with a 
 skimmer, lay it gently on a sieve over a 
 pan ; if the cream does not froth properly, 
 add the whites of two eggs. This cream is 
 usually served in large silver or gilt goblets, 
 and should be prepared two or three hours 
 before it is wanted. 
 
 CREAM FOR FRUIT TARTS. Boil 
 a stick of cinnamon, two or three peach 
 leaves, or a few bruised bitter almonds, in a 
 quart of milk; sti*ain, sweeten, and mix it, 
 when cool, with three or four well-beaten 
 eggs; stir it constantly over die fire till it 
 tiiickens. It may be eaten with stewed 
 apples, pj-unes, damsons, or any other fruit. 
 
 CREAM, IMPERIAL. Boil a quart of 
 cream with the thin rind of a lemon ; then 
 Btir it till nearly cold; have ready in a 
 dish or bowl that you are to sei've in, 
 tlie juice of three lemons strained, with as 
 much sugar as will sweeten die cream, which 
 pour into the dish from a large teapot, hold- 
 ing it high, and moving it about to mix with 
 the juice. It should be made at least six 
 hours before it is served, and will be still 
 better if a day. 
 
 CREAM ITALIAN. (1) Boil a pint and 
 a half of milk in a stewpan, then add to it 
 the peel of a young lemon, some coriander 
 seed, a bit of cinnamon, rather more than 
 
 half a quarter of a pound of sugar, and two 
 or three grains of salt ; let it boil till half ig 
 consumed; then let it stand to cool, and 
 have ready in another stewpan a little flour, 
 beat up with the yolks of six eggs ; stir it 
 by degrees into the cream ; strain it through 
 a sieve, and put it in the dish for table, 
 p'acing the dish in some hot water over the 
 fire till the cream is set. Before serving, 
 brown with a salamander. 
 
 CREAM ITALIAN. (2) Put a gill of 
 good fresh cream, two eggs, three spoonfiils 
 of powder-sugar, and a little orange-Hower 
 water, into a pan, and whip them up togeth- 
 er ; and when the cream is sufficiently thick, 
 put it into a deep dish, with plenty of pow- 
 der-sugar; set it on hot ashes, cover it, and 
 lay hot ashes on the top, which must be 
 renewed until the cream is done enough; 
 then let it cool, and serve it. 
 
 CREAM, LEMON. Steep the thinly- 
 pared rinds of four large lemons in a pint of 
 water for twelve hours; str-ain, and dissolve 
 in it three-quarters of a pound of fine loaf 
 sugar, add the juice of the lemons strained, 
 and the well-beaten whites of seven, and the 
 yolk, of one egg. Boil it over a slow fii'e, 
 stirring it constantly one way, till it is like 
 a thick cream ; pour it into a glass or china 
 
 CREAM, ORANGE. (1) Squeeze and 
 strain the juice of eleven oranges, sweeten 
 it well with pounded loaf sugar, stir it over 
 a slow fire till the sugar be dissolved, and 
 take off* the scum as it rises ; when cold, 
 mix it with die well-beaten yolks of twelve 
 eggs, to which a pint of cream has been 
 added ; stir it again over the fire till thick. 
 Serve in a glass dish or custard-cups. 
 
 CREAM, ORANGE. (2) Sweeten, 
 with pounded loaf sugar, a quart of good 
 cream; mix with it a small wine-glass of 
 orange-flower water, the grated rind and 
 the juice of a Seville orange; whisk jt till 
 quite diick; soak some macaroons in white 
 wine, and pile them in the middle of a glass 
 or china disli, and heap the whipped cream 
 over them as high as possible. Some hours 
 after, ornament it with slices of green citron 
 cut into straws, and stuck into the cream. 
 
 CREAM, RATAFIA. In a tea-cupful 
 of thin cream boil two or three large laurel, 
 or young peach leaves ; when it has boiled 
 three or four minutes, strain, and mix with 
 it a pint of rich sweet cream ; add three well- 
 beaten whites of eggs, and sweeten it with 
 pounded loaf sugar. Put it into a saucepan, 
 and stir it gendy one way over a slow fire 
 till it be thick ; poui' it into a china dish. 
 
CRE 
 
 68 
 
 CRE 
 
 and when quite cold, ornament it with sweet- 
 meats cut out like flowers; or strew over 
 the top harlequin comfits. 
 
 CREAM, RASPBERRY. (1) Mix a 
 
 little pounded loaf sugar with a pint and a 
 half of good 'cream, about a tea-cupful of 
 raspberry jelly, the grated rind of one, and 
 the juice of half a lemon ; beat it well to- 
 gether, and, with a syllabub mill, mill it 
 slowly for half an hour, or till it be thick and 
 solid. Put it into a glass dish, or serve it in 
 custard glasses. 
 
 CREAM, RASPBERRY. (2) Put six 
 ounces of raspberry jam to a quart of cream, 
 pulp it through a lawn sieve, mix it with the 
 juice of a lemon and a little sugar, and 
 whisk it till tliick. Sene it in a dish or 
 Iflasses. Strawberry cream may be made 
 m the same way. For common use, substi- 
 tute good milk for the cream. 
 
 CREAM, RED CURRANT. (1) Pick 
 tiie currants from the stalks, put ihera into a 
 jar closely covered, and stand it in a pan 
 of cold water ; let it boil for two hours, strain 
 the juice tlii-ough a sieve, and sweeten it 
 well widi pounded loaf sugar. When cold, 
 add a quart of cream to a pint of juice, and 
 beat it with a whisk till thick. Serve in a 
 deep glass dish. 
 
 CREAM, RED CURRENT. (2) 
 Squeeze three-quarters of a pint of juice 
 from red currants when full ripe, add to it 
 rather more than a quarter of a pound of 
 pounded loaf sugar, and the juice of one 
 lemon ; stir it into a pint and a half of cream, 
 and whisk it till quite ^ick. 
 
 CREAM ROSEAT, Beat to a stiff 
 froth the whites of four eggs ; sweeten and 
 boil a pint of good milk, drop about three 
 table-spoonfuls of the froth into it, turn it 
 over once or twice with the spoon, take it 
 out, and put it upon the back of a lawn sieve 
 placed over a large plate ; repeat diis till it 
 is all done; add to the milk another half 
 pint, with a little more sugar, and mix it 
 witli the beaten yolks of the eggs; stir it 
 over the fire till thick; put it into a basin, 
 apd stir now and then till nearly cold; add 
 a tablerspoonful of rose water, and one of 
 brandy. Serve it in a glass dish, and lay 
 the whites of the eggs over the top at equal 
 distances. Cut citron and candied orange- 
 peel into straws, and put them over the 
 whites of the eggs, or strew over them color- 
 ed comfits. 
 
 CREAM OF RICE SOUP. Mix one 
 
 or two table-spoonfuls of sifted flour of rice 
 >yitb a little good stock, rather cold than 
 
 hot; add this to some boiling stock, and 
 keep stirring till it boils; and let it boil till 
 suflSciently thick. The flour of rice may be 
 made as follows: — Wash in several waters 
 a pound of rice; wipe it in a clean towel, 
 and when perfectly dry poimd and sift it 
 through a sieve. 
 
 CREAM, SNOW. Take a pint of fresh 
 cream, and mix with it eight spoonfuls of 
 powder-sugar, the whites of two eggs, and 
 a spoonful of orange-flower water, or any 
 other aromatic ingredient you like better; 
 whip it, and remove the froth or snow in 
 the usual way. This cream may be colored 
 according to your fancy, with safeon, car- 
 mine, or indigo. 
 
 CREAM, SOLID. Squeeze the juice 
 of a large lemon upon three or four table- 
 spoonfuls of pounded loaf sugar, add two 
 table-spoonfuls of brandy, and one pint of 
 cream ; pour it from one cup into another, 
 till it be sufficiently thick. 
 
 CREAM, SPANISH. Boil, in half a 
 pint of water, half an ounce of isinglass, till 
 dissolved; strain, and mix it with a quart 
 of cream or good milk ; if cream, not so 
 much isinglass; stir it over the fire till it 
 come to a boil ; when a little cooled, add 
 gi-adually the beaten yolks of six eggs, and a 
 glass of white wine. Pour it into a deep 
 dish, sweeten with pounded loaf sugar, stir 
 it till cold, and then put it into a shape. 
 
 CREAM, STONE. Put three table- 
 spoonfuls of lemon-juice, and the grated peel 
 of one, some preserved apricots, or any other 
 sweetmeat, into a glass or China dish. Boil 
 a quarter of an ounce of isinglass in a little 
 water, till dissolved ; add it to a pint of cream, 
 sweetened well with pounded loaf sugar; 
 boil it, and stir it all the time ; pour it into 
 a jug, stir it now and then till milk- warm, 
 then |X)ur it over the sweetmeat round and 
 round. It may be made the day before 
 being served. 
 
 CREAM, SWISS. (1) Boil the grated 
 peel of a large lemon, and three-quarters of 
 a pound of pounded loaf sugar, in a pint of 
 cream ; stjueeze the juice of the lemon upon 
 a table-spoonful of flour, work it well togeth- 
 er, and gradually add to it the boiling cream, 
 and heat it all over tlie fire; pour it into a 
 basin, and when nearly cold, put it into a 
 glass or China dish, and garnish it with 
 candied orange-peel, and citron cut into 
 straws. This cream requires to be constant- 
 ly stiiTed till it is put into the dish in which 
 it is to be served. 
 
 CREAM, SWISS. (2) Whisk upon 
 
CRO 59 
 
 a hot plate, the yolks of eight eggs, half a 
 pound of finely-pounded sugar, tJhe gi-ated 
 rind of a lemon, and half a pint of light 
 French or Rhenish white wine, and send it 
 warm to table. 
 
 CREAM TART. See Tart. 
 
 CREAM, WHIPPED. Sweeten, with 
 pounded loaf sugar, a quart of cream, and 
 add to it a lump of sugar which has been 
 rubbed upon the peel of two fine lemons or 
 bitter oranges; or flavor it with orange- 
 flower water, a little essence of roses, the 
 juice of ripe sti-awberries, or of any other 
 fruit. Whisk the cream well in a large pan, 
 and as the frotii rises, take it off", and lay it 
 upon a sieve placed over another pan, and 
 return the cream which drains from the froth, 
 till all is whisked, then heap it upon a dish, 
 or put it into glasses. Garnish with thinly- 
 pared citron, or cedrat cut into small leaves, 
 or into any fanciful shape. To color the 
 rose cream, or to heighten that of strawber- 
 ry, a little carmine or lake may be mixed 
 with tlie cream, which may be iced wlien 
 made. 
 
 CREAM, WHITE LEMON. (1) Rub, 
 with some lumps of loaf sugar, tlie rinds of 
 six lemons, and grate off the remainder; 
 squeeze and sti-ain the juice, and add tlie 
 grated peel and sugar, with three-quarters 
 of a pound of pounded loaf sugar ; put to this 
 a quart of rich cream, and whisk it till very 
 tliick. The following day, soak five or six 
 sponge biscuits in white wine, and put over 
 tliem the cream. 
 
 CREAM, WHITE LEMON. (2) Boil 
 the thin peel of two lemons in a pint of 
 cream ; strain, and thicken it with the well- 
 beaten yolks of three, and whites of four 
 eggs ; sweeten it with pounded loaf sugar, 
 stir it till neai-ly cold, and put it into 
 
 /m.'z'^' 
 
 CROQUANTE OF PASTE. Roll out 
 paste, about the eighth of an inch thick; 
 rub over a plain mould with a little fresh 
 butter; lay on the paste very even, and 
 equally diin on both sides ; pare it round the 
 rim; then with- a small penknife cut out 
 small pieces, as fancy may direct, such as 
 diamonds, stars, circles, sprigs, &c. ; or use 
 a small tin cutter of any shape: let it lie to 
 dry sometime, and bake it a few minutes in 
 a slack oven, of a light color: remove it 
 from the mould, and place it over a tart, or 
 any other dish of small pastry. 
 
 CROQUE. These are large pieces of 
 ornamental confectionary, formed of various 
 materials, as gimbleiles, croquignole8,gen- 
 
 oisea, ^c, or iJ( otfanges, cut- i ._ . , 
 
 chestnuts, gree^ nuts, &c., arranged with* Vta 
 in moulds according to fency, aud cemenl^l>'^ 
 together with boiled sugsu-. 
 
 CROQUETS. Pound, in a raaiWe 
 moi-tar, cold veal and fowl, with a little suet, 
 some chopped lemon-peel, lemon tliyme, 
 chives, and parsley. Season with nutmeg, 
 pepper, and salt ; mix all well together, and 
 add the yolk of an egg well -beaten ; roll it 
 into balls, and dip tliem into an egg beaten 
 up, then sift; bread crumbs over tliem, and 
 fi-y them in butter. 
 
 CROQUETTES OF BOILED MEAT. 
 
 Mince some boiled meat very small; add to 
 it some sausage-meat, mashed potatoes, 
 crumbs of bread, soaked in milk, and sweet 
 herbs ; make them into a paste, and form i* 
 into little balls ; roll them in very fine rasp- 
 ings, and fry them of a nice color. Serve 
 them with sauce piquante. 
 
 CROQUETS OF SWEETBREADS. 
 Mince some cold sweed)reads, which have 
 been dressed, and boil them in a sauce ve- 
 loute ; when quite cold, form them into balls, 
 or into rolls, about two inches long ; fry and 
 serve them with fried parsley in die middle. 
 Or, make tlie croquet meat into a rissole. 
 Roll out a piece of thin puff paste, enclose 
 the meat in it, brush it over with a beaten 
 egg, and strew over it grated bread ; fry it 
 of a light brown color. 
 
 CRUMPETS. (1) Make a pint of 
 warm milk, a quarter of a pint of yeast broth, 
 strained into a su-ong batter, witii a sufficient 
 quantity of flour; cover, and set it in a 
 warm place to rise ; dien add a quarter of 
 a pint of warm milk, an ounce of butter 
 worked up in a little flour, but only flour 
 enough to prevent the batter from being too 
 diin ; in a quarter of an hour have Uie iron 
 rings ready on a plate of iron over a stove; 
 pour the batter into these rings, and bake 
 them. 
 
 CRUMPETS, OR PIKELETS. (2) 
 
 Set a sponge as for bread, excepting Uiat 
 half milk and half water must be used ; and 
 to every half-quartern of flour, two eggs 
 must be added; beat the eggs thoroughly. 
 Bake them in rings as usual. 
 
 CRUST, FOR VENISON PASTY. 
 
 Work into a paste with warm water, two 
 pounds and a half of butter, a peck of fine 
 flour, and four eggs; work it smooth, and 
 to a good consistence. The paste should be 
 put round the inside, but not at the bottom 
 of the dish ; let tlie cover be tolerably thick, 
 to bear the long continuance in tlie oven. 
 
cue 
 
 60 
 
 CUL 
 
 CRUST, RAISED. (1) Melt, in one 
 pint of water, one pound of fresh lard ; weigh 
 four pounds of flour, put it into a basin, and 
 when tlie water and lard is liot, with a horn 
 spoon stir it by degrees amongst die flour. 
 When well mixed, work it widi the hands 
 till it is a stifi" paste, when it is fit for use. 
 
 CRUST, RAISED. (2) Put into a 
 saucepan one pint and a half of water, four 
 pounds of flour, and four ounces and a half 
 of butter; stir it till it is a thick paste, take 
 it out, and add Uie yolks of diree or four 
 beaten eggs ; work it well togedier, roll it 
 out raUier more dian half an inch diick ; 
 cut out die top and bottom, and a long piece 
 of proper depth for die sides. Brush round 
 die bottom widi well-beaten whites of eggs ; 
 set on the sides, keeping die paste radier 
 widiiii die edge of the bottom ; pinch it all 
 round, to make the pieces adhere, dien fill 
 the pie, and brush round the upper sides of 
 the crust and die outer edges of die cover 
 with egg ; lay on the cover, pinch it round 
 neatly, and ornament it according to fancy 
 widi leaves, festoons, or chains of rings 
 made of the paste. 
 
 CRUST SHORT. (1) Pound, sift, 
 and diy two ounces of white sugar; then 
 mix it widi a jMJund of well dried flour, rub- 
 bing into it, so fine as not to be seen, three 
 ounces of butter ; dien put the yolks of two 
 eggs into some cream, and mix die whole 
 into a smooth paste; roll it out diin, and 
 bake it in a moderate oven. 
 
 CRUST SHORT, not sweet, but 
 RICH. (2) Mix into a stiffish paste, us- 
 ing as little water as }X)ssible, six ounces of 
 butler, widi eight ounces of fine flour, (rub- 
 bing the butter well into the flour, before 
 mixing it widi die water) beat it well, and 
 ix)ll it thin. This crust is proper as well as 
 the above, for tarts of fresh or preserved 
 fiuits. Let it bake in a moderate oven. 
 
 CUCUMBERS STEWED. Peel and 
 cot cucuml)ers in quarters, take out the seeds, 
 and lay diein on a clodi to drain off die wa- 
 ter: when they are dry, flour and fry them 
 in fresh butter ; let the butter be quite hot 
 before you put in the cucumbers ; fiy diem 
 till diey are brown, dien take them out with 
 an egg-slice, and lay them on a sieve to 
 drain the fat fi-om diem (some cooks fry 
 sliced onions, or some small button onions, 
 widi diem, till diey are a delicate light 
 brown color, drain them from the fat, and 
 tlien put them into a stewpan with as much 
 gravy as will cover diem): stew slowly till 
 they are tender; take out the cucumbers 
 widi a slice, thicken the gravy with flour 
 and butter, give it a boil u{), season it widi 
 
 pepper and salt, and put in die cucumbers; 
 as soon as diey are warm, they are ready. 
 The above, rubljed through a tamis, or fine 
 sieve, will be entitled to be called " cucum- 
 ber sauce." See Cucumber Vinegar. This 
 is a very favorite sauce with lamb or mutton- 
 cutlets, stewed rump-steaks, &c. &c.: when 
 made for die latter, a diird part of sliced 
 onion is sometimes fried widi tlie cucurabei . 
 
 CUCUMBERS AND ONIONS, SLIC- 
 ED. Cut full-grown cucumbers into slices 
 about a quarter of an inch thick, and slice 
 some onions thin; dien lay them into a dish 
 together, and strew salt over them; cover 
 them with another dish, and let them re- 
 main for twenty-four hours. Put them in- 
 to a cullender to drain, then into a large jar, 
 and pour over diem boiled vinegar, tliree 
 successive days ; die last time of boiling the 
 vinegar add pepper and ginger, pour it over 
 them hot, and closely cover them when cold. 
 
 CUCUMBER MANGOES. Cut a long 
 narrow piece out of the sides of large Tur- 
 key cucumbers, scoop out the seeds, and 
 with a part of them mix some mustard seed, 
 shred garlic, and grated horse-radish ; stuff 
 the space as full as it will admit of, and re- 
 place the piece which was cut ofl"; bind 
 them with a diread; put over them hot 
 vinegar three successive days, and boil witii 
 it the last time ))epper, flour of mustai'd, 
 and some salt ; put them into jars, and pour 
 over diem the boiling vinegar, and when 
 cold, cover them closely. 
 
 CULLIS. (1) Toaquartofgravy,puta 
 table-spoonful of thickening, or fiom one to 
 two table-spoonfuls of flour, according to 
 the thickness you wish die gravy to be, into 
 a basin, with a ladleful of die gravy ; stir it 
 quick ; add the rest by degrees, till it is all 
 well mixed ; dien pour it back into a stew- 
 pan, and leave it by the side of the fire to 
 simmer for half an hour longer, that the 
 tiiickening may dioroughly incorporate with 
 the gravy, die stewpan being only half cov- 
 ered, stirring it every now and then ; a sort 
 of scum will gadier on the top, which it is 
 test not to take off till you are ready to 
 strain it through a tamis.' Take care it is 
 neither of too pale nor too dark a color ; if 
 it is not diick enough, let it stevv longer, till 
 it is reduced to the desired thickness; or 
 add a bit of glaze, or portable souj) to it, 
 if it is too thick, you can easily thin it witi 
 a spoonful or two of warm broth, or water. 
 When your sauce is done, stir it in the ba- 
 sin you j)ut it into once or twice, while it is 
 cooling. 
 
 CULLIS. (2) Lay over the bottom of a 
 i stovvpan as much lean veal as will cover 
 
CU R 
 
 61 
 
 CUR 
 
 k an inch thick ; then cover the veal witli 
 some slices of undressed bacon (ganinion is 
 the best), tliree onions, diree bay leaves, 
 some sweet herbs, two blades of mace, and 
 three cloves. Put on die lid of the stewpan, 
 and set it over a slow fire ; but when the 
 juices come out, let the fire bq a little quick- 
 er. When die meat is of a nice brown col- 
 or, fill the stewpan with good beef broth, 
 boil and skim it, dien let it simmer for an 
 horn-; add a little water mixed with as 
 much flour as will make it properly thick; 
 boil it half an hour, and strain it. You 
 may keep tiiis cuUis a week. 
 
 CULLIS, A FAMILY ONE. Roll a 
 piece of buttei- in floui-, and stir it in a stew- 
 pan till the flour is of a fine yellow color. 
 Then put in some thin broth: a little gravy, 
 a glass of white wine, a bundle of sweet 
 herbs, two cloves, a little nutmeg or mace, a 
 few mushrooms, pepper and salt. Let it 
 stew an hour over a slow fire, dien skim all 
 tlie fat clean off, and strain it dirough a 
 sieve, 
 
 CULLIS, WHITE. Take a piece of 
 veal, cut it into small bits, with some diin 
 slices of ham, and two onions, each cut into 
 four; moisten it with brodi, seasoned with 
 mushrooms, a bunch of parsley, green onions, 
 three cloves, and so let it stew. Being 
 stewed, take out the meat and roots with a 
 skimmer, put in a few crumbs of bread, and 
 let it stew softly ; take the white of a fowl, 
 or two chickens, and put it into a mortar ; 
 being well pounded, mix it in die cuUis, but 
 it must not boil, and the cullis must be very 
 white ; but if not white enough, pound two 
 dozen of sweet ahxionds blanched, and put it 
 into die cullis ; then boil a glass of milk, and 
 add it to the cullis ; let it be of a good fla- 
 vor, and strain it ofi"; then put it into a 
 small kettle, and keep it warm. It may be 
 used for white loaves, crust of white bread, 
 and biscuits. 
 
 CURACOA. Put five ounces of thin- 
 cut Seville orange-peel, that has been dried 
 and poundi.d, or, which is still better, of 
 the fiesli peel of a fresh shaddock, which 
 may be bouglit at the orange and lemon 
 shops in the beginning of March, into a 
 quart of the finest and cleanest rectified 
 spirit; after it has been infused a fortnight, 
 strain it, and add a quart of sirup and filter. 
 See the following receipt. 
 
 CURACOA; how to make a 
 Q,UART. To a pint of the cleanest and 
 strongest rectified spirit, add two drachms 
 and a lialf of the sweet oil of orange-j^eel ; 
 shake it up: dissolve a pound of good lump 
 sugar in a pint of cold water ; make diis in- 
 
 to a claiified sirup, which add to the 
 spirit: shake it up, and let it stand till the 
 following day: diea line a funnel with a 
 piece of muslin, and that with filtering- 
 paper, and filter it two or three times till it 
 is quite bright. This liquor is an admii-a- 
 ble cordial ; and a tea-spoonfiil in a tumbler 
 of water is a very refreshing summer drink, 
 and a great improvement to punch. 
 
 CURDS AND CREAM. (1) With 
 
 about half a table-spoonfiil of rennet, turn 
 two quarts of milk just from the cow ; drain 
 off the whey, and fill a mould with die curd ; 
 when it has stood an hour or two, turn it 
 out. Strew colored comfits over it, sweeten 
 some cream, mix grated nutmeg with it, 
 and pour it round the curd. 
 
 CURDS AND CREAM. (2) Put two 
 
 quai'ts of new milk into die dish in which it 
 is to be served, and turn it with a tea-spoon- 
 ful of rennet; when die cm-d has come, serve 
 it with cream in a separate dish. 
 
 CURRANTS, AND OTHER FRUIT, 
 TO CANDY. Boil the fruit in clarified 
 sugar as for preserving; take it out of the 
 sirup and drain it upon sieves ; sift over it 
 through a lawn sieve, till quite white, pound- 
 ed loaf sugar. Place diem in a cool oven, 
 and tiu-n and dust diem with sugaji- till dry. 
 
 CURRANT FRITTERS WITHOUT 
 EGGS. Stir into half a pint of mild ale, 
 as much flour as will make it into a thick 
 batter ; add a little sugar and a few currants ; 
 beat it up quickly, and with a spoon drop 
 it into boiling lard. 
 
 CURRANT MARMALADE. Take 
 
 some ripe red currants, pick diem, and 
 squeeze out die juice from some of diem ; put 
 to it some juice of raspberries ; then put to 
 this die whole currants, boil them gently; 
 and when they begin to break, put in an 
 equal weight of sugar boiled to candy height ; 
 boil diem together, mash them as they boil ; 
 skim diem, put in some rose water, and 
 when it becomes as thick as marmalade, put 
 it into pots. 
 
 CURRANT PUDDING. See Pud- 
 ding. 
 
 CURRANTS FOR TARTS. Gather 
 
 the fruit perfectly dry, and before it be too 
 ripe, pick it from the stalks, and put it into 
 clean, dry, wide-mouthed bottles; if the 
 flavor of raspberries is approved, some may 
 be added with the currants ; tie tightly over 
 each bottle a piece of sound bladder previ- 
 ously soaked in water ; set them into a pan 
 of cold water widi a little straw at the hot- 
 
CUR 
 
 62 
 
 CUR 
 
 torn, and a little between the bottles; put j 
 tliena on tlie fire, and when they begin to 
 simmer, keep them in that state about three- 
 quarters of an hour, but they must not be 
 allowed to boil ; take the pan off the fire ; 
 the bladders will be raised, but will fall soon 
 after, and sink into the mouth of tlie bottles ; 
 in an hour, take them out, and tie strong 
 paper o\er each, and set them in a dry cool 
 place. The bottles may be placed in a 
 bottle rack with the neck downwards. 
 Damsons, cherries, and gooseberries, may 
 be done in this way ; any sort will keep for 
 a year. Cut oflf the stalks of the cherries, 
 and top and tail the gooseberries. 
 
 CURRANT TART. See Tarts. 
 
 CURRIES. Cut fowls or rabbits into 
 joints, and wash them clean ; put two ounces 
 of butter into a stewpan : when it is melted, 
 put in the meat, and two middling-sized 
 onions sliced, let them be over a smart fire 
 till they are of a light brown, then put in 
 half a pint of broth ; let it simmer twenty 
 minutes. Put in a basin one or two table- 
 spoonfuls of curry powder, a tea-spoonful of 
 flour, and a tea-spoonful of salt; mix it 
 smooth with a little cold water, put it into 
 the stewpan, and shake it well about till it 
 boils: let it simmer twenty minutes longer; 
 then take out tlie meat, and rub the sauce 
 tlirough a tamis or sieve: add to it two ta- 
 ble-spoonfuls of cream or milk ; give it a 
 boil up; then pour it into a dish, lay die 
 meat over it: send up the rice in a separate 
 dish. 
 
 CURRY. Cut a fowl into small pieces, 
 skin it, and let it blanch in cold water for 
 two hours; mince an onion very small, and 
 put it into a saucepan, with two ounces of 
 butterj and a large table-spoonful of flour 
 of rice stirred in by degrees; brown it well, 
 and when just boiling, add a (juart of cold 
 watei", with the pieces of f jwl and a large 
 table-spoonful of curiy powder mixed in it. 
 liCt it boil till the fowl be quite tender, and 
 just before serving, squeeze the juice of 
 half a lemon over the blade of a knife into 
 it. Vinegar will answer instead of the 
 juice; and if it be required very fine, in 
 place of rice, thicken it with an ounce of 
 sweet almonds blanched and pounded. 
 
 CURRY BALLS for Mock Turtle, 
 Veal, Poultry, Made Dishes, Sfc. Are 
 made with bread-crumbs, the ^olk of an 
 egg boiled hard, and a bit of fresh butter 
 about half as big, beaten together in a mor- 
 tar, and seasoned with curry powder. 
 
 CURRY, DRY. Skin and cut a fowl 
 into joints, or talte off small cutlets from 
 
 the best end of a neck of veal ; fi-y in hxAtGt 
 three or four miticed onions, and drain 
 them ; then fry die fowl or veal, and dust it 
 widi three tea-spoonfuls of curry powder, 
 and a quarter of a tea-spoonful of Cayenne. 
 Put the fiied meat and onions into a^ steve- 
 pan, with a little salt, half a pint of milk, 
 and the same quantity of water; keep the 
 pan closely covered, and let it stew till per- 
 fectly tender, and ten minutes before serv- 
 ing, add two tea-spoonfuls of lemon-juice. 
 
 CURRY, FISH. After a cod-fish, had- 
 dock, or mackerel has lain some hours in 
 salt, cut it into pieces, and stew it in water 
 sufficient to cover it, into which a large ta- 
 ble spoonful of curry powder has Ijeen mix- 
 ed. Fry in a quarter of a pound of l)utter, 
 a shallot and two or tlnee onions minced, 
 a little pepi)er and salt. When well browm- 
 ed, add it to the fish, and stew all together 
 till it 1)e (juite tender. Sprats make a good 
 curry, but should be stewed in less water. 
 
 CURRY, INDIAN. Stew in two ounc- 
 es of butter, for ten minutes, a teaspoonfiil 
 of Cayenne, and one of pepjier, a dessert- 
 spoonful of pounded coriander seed, six 
 small onions, and two heads of garlic min- 
 ced. Cut the fowl or rabbit into small 
 pieces, and cover it over wiUi the curd of 
 sweet milk. Put the whole into a stewpan, 
 with as much boiling water as may be de^ 
 sired for sauce, and let it simmer till veiy 
 tender. 
 
 CURRY POWDER. (1) Putthefollow^- 
 ing ingredients in a cool oven all night, and 
 the next morning pound Uiem in a marble 
 mortar, and lub them through a fine sieve. 
 Coriander-seed, diree ounces, turmeric, three 
 ounces, black pepper, mustard, and ginger, 
 one ounce of each, allspice and less carda- 
 mons, .half an ounce of each, cumin seed, 
 a (juarter of an ounce. Thoroughly pound 
 and mix together, and keep them in a well- 
 stopped bottle. Those who are fond of 
 curry sauces, may steep tliree ounces of die 
 powder in a quait of vinegar or white wine 
 for ten days, and will get a liquor impreg- 
 nated with all die flavor of die powder. 
 
 CURRY POWDER. (2) Pound ex- 
 tremely fine, in a mortar, six ounces of co- 
 riander seed, three ounces of jiepper, one 
 ounce and a half of fennigreck seed, one 
 ounce of cumin seed, three ounces of tur- 
 meric, and threcKjuarters of an ounce of 
 Cayenne; sift it through muslin, and put it 
 befoie the fire for four or five hours, stirring 
 it evei"y now and then. Keep it in a bottle 
 with a glass stopper. 
 
 CURRY OF VEAL, FOWL, &c. Fry 
 
cus 
 
 63 
 
 cus 
 
 diced veal, rabbit, fowl, or sweetbreads, in a 
 good deal of butter, dusting it with flour. 
 Dust one side with curry powder ; then turn 
 ?md dust the otlier, strewing over it finely- 
 minced onions, taking care not to burn them. 
 When the meat is of a ligl>t brown, add 
 some white stock, with a little salt ; stew it 
 till tender. Before serving, skim off the fat, 
 and add a tea-spoonful of lemon-juice or 
 vinegar. Rabbit, fowl, and sweetbreads 
 should be parboiled. 
 
 CUSTARD. (1) Sweeten a quart of thin 
 cream, or good milk, with pounded loaf 
 sugar; boil it with a bit of cinnamon, and 
 half the peel of a lemon ; strain it, and when 
 a little .cooled, mix it gradually with the 
 well-beaten yolks of ten eggs ; stir it over a 
 slow fire till it be pretty thick, pour it into a 
 basin, and add a table-spoonful of rose water, 
 and one of brandy; keep stirring it every 
 now and then till cold, and then put it into 
 gl^-sses, cups, or a dish. It may be made 
 the day before it is used. 
 
 CUSTARD. (2) Boil a pint of milk 
 with lemon-peel and cinnamon ; mix a pint 
 of cream, and the yolks of five eggs, well 
 beaten ; when the milk tastes of the season- 
 ing, sweeten it enough for the whole ; pour 
 it into the cream, stirring it well; then give 
 the custard a simmer till of a proper thick- 
 ness. Do not let it boil; stir the whole 
 time one way; then seaison witli a large 
 spoonful of peach water, and two tea-spoon- 
 fuls of brandy, or a little ratafia. If you wish 
 your custards to be extremely rich, put no 
 milk, but a quart of cream. 
 
 CUSTARDS. (3) Take six eggs, 
 leave out the whites; mix your eggs and 
 sugai- together with some rose water ; tlien 
 boil a pint of cream, and put in the eggs 
 (the cream must not boil after the eggs have 
 been put in). Stir them to prevent tliem 
 from curdling. 
 
 CUSTARDS, ALMOND. Blanch and 
 pound fine, with half a gill of rose water, six 
 ounces of sweet, and half an ounce of bit(er 
 almonds; boil a pint of milk, as in Baked 
 Custard sweeten it with twf) ounces and a 
 half of sugar; rub tiie almonds through a 
 fine sieve, with a pint of cream; strain the 
 milk to the yolks of eight eggs, and the 
 whites of three well-beaten ; stir it over a 
 fire till it is of a good thickness; talie it off 
 the fire, and stir it till nearly cold, to prevent 
 its curdling. N. B. — The above may be 
 baked in cups, or in a dish, with a rim of 
 puff paste put round. 
 
 CUSTARD, APPLE. Take thirty 
 fine apples, and pierce out the cores of ten 
 
 of them which are of an equal size ; pare 
 and trim them neatly, and boil them in six 
 ounces of sugar till pretty firm. Peel and 
 cut the remaining apples very small, and put 
 them into the above sirup; shred the rind 
 q{ an orange, and mix witli them ; stir the 
 whole constantly to pievent their sticking 
 to the pan ; when sufficiently done mb the 
 marmalade through a horse-liair sieve. Pre- 
 pare the crust as before mentioned, but dress 
 the sides a little higher; mix two spoonfuls 
 of apricot mannalade with that of your 
 apples, and then put four spoonfuls of it into 
 the custard ; place the whole apples, (hav- 
 ing put apricot marmalade in the place of 
 the cores), and then add the remainder of 
 the apple mannalade, tadcing care not to 
 cover die apples with it. Finish as above. 
 At the instant of serving it mask it with 
 apple jelly, apricot or quince marmalade, 
 cherry juice or verjuice. Garnish the top 
 of each apple with a cheiry or verjuice-berry. 
 Sei-ve this hot or cold. 
 
 CUSTARD, APRICOT GLAZED. 
 
 Cut twenty fine apricots in half, take out 
 the stones ; toss up twelve apricots in four 
 ounces of powder-sugar, and place them in 
 a cream according to the directions for 
 apple custard; bake and glaze as therein 
 directed. Put a glass of water and a quar- 
 ter of a pound of powder-sugar with the 
 rest of the fi"uit into a preserving-pan ; when 
 the sirup is properly reduced, take the skin 
 from the apricots and arrange them in the 
 custard; garnish each half apricot witli a 
 kernel, and when ready to serve, pour the 
 sirup on it. Serve hot or cold. 
 
 CUSTARD, BAKED. (1) Boil a 
 pint of cream with mace and cinnamon; 
 when cold, take four eggs, leaving out two 
 of the whites, a little rose and orange-flower 
 water, a little white wine, nutmeg, and 
 sugar to your taste ; mix diem well together, 
 and bake them in china cups. 
 
 CUSTARD, BAKED. (2) Boil in a 
 pint of milk, a few coriander seeds, a little 
 cinnamon and leraon-]X!el; sweeten witli 
 four ounces of loaf sugar, and mix with it a, 
 pint of cold milk ; beat well eight eggs for 
 ten minutes, and add the odier ingredients; 
 pour it from one pan into anotljer six or 
 eight times, strain it through a sieve, and 
 let it stand some time ; skim off tlie fi-oth 
 from the top, fill it in earthen cups, and 
 bake them immediately in a hot oven, give 
 them a good color ; about tea minutes will 
 do them. 
 
 CUSTARD, BOILED. (1) Boil in a pint 
 of milk, five minutes, lemon-peel, corianders, 
 and cinnamon, a small quantity of each, 
 
cus 
 
 64 
 
 cus 
 
 half a dozen of bitter almonds, blanched and 
 pounded, and four ounces of loaf sugar: mix 
 it with a pint of cream, the yolks of ten eggs, 
 and the whites of six, well-beaten ; pass it 
 through a hair sieve, stir it with a whisk 
 over a slow fire till it begins to thicken, re- 
 move it from the fire, and continue to stir 
 it till nearly cold ; add two table-spoonfuls 
 of brandy, fill the cups or glasses, and grate 
 nutmeg over. 
 
 CUSTARDS, BOILED. (2) Put a 
 quart of new milk into a stewpan, with the 
 peel of a lemon cut very tliin, a little grated 
 nutmeg, a bay or laurel leaf, and a small 
 stick of cinnamon ; set it over a quick fire, 
 but be careful it does not boil over: when it 
 boils, set it beside the fire, and simmer ten 
 minutes ; break the yolks of eight, and the 
 whites of four eggs into a basin ; beat them 
 well; then pour in the milk a little at a 
 time, stirring it as quick as possible to pre- 
 vent tlie eggs curdling; set it on the fire 
 again, and stir it well with a wooden spoon ; 
 let it have just one boil ; pass it through a 
 tamis, or fine sieve: when cold add a little 
 brandy, or white wine, as may be most 
 agreeable to the eater's palate. Sei-ve up 
 in glasses, or cups. Custards for baking 
 are prepared as above, passed through a 
 fine sieve ; put them into cups ; grate a little 
 nutmeg over each: bake them about fifteen 
 or twenty minutes. 
 
 CUSTARD, COMMON. Boil a pint 
 of milk with a bit of cinnamon and two or 
 three laurel leaves; mix widi one table- 
 spoonful of flour, or potato flour, two and a 
 half of cold milk, put it into a lawn sieve, 
 and pour the boiling milk upon it; let it 
 run into a basin, mix in by degi-ees the well- 
 beaten yolks of three eggs; sweeten, and 
 stur it over the fire for a few minutes to 
 thicken. 
 
 CUSTARDS OR CREAMS, to Orna- 
 ment. Whisk for one hour the whites of 
 two eggs together with two table-spoonfuls 
 of raspberry, or red currant sii-up or jelly 
 "ay it in " 
 
 )iled up 
 m a dish with cream round it. 
 
 lay it in any form upon a custard or cream, 
 piled up to imitate rock. It may be served 
 
 CUSTARD, DURHAM. To a pint of 
 cream add the well-beaten yolks of two eggs, 
 and about a third of a pint of mild strong 
 ale J sweeten, and stir it over the fire till it 
 nearly boils, then jwur it into a dish, in the 
 bottom of which is laid thin toasted bread, 
 cut into square bits. 
 
 CUSTARD OF FRESH FRUIT. 
 Have ready a tin or copper mould, and line 
 it completely with paste, taking care that it 
 
 takes all the form of the mould. Then take 
 a sufficient quantity of apricots, peaches, 
 plums, or any odier fruit you please ; and 
 having taken out the stones, seeds, and stalks, 
 mix the fruit up with powder-sugar; put it 
 into the crust, and bake it in a hot oven. 
 When ready for table, mask it with the 
 sirup and kernels, blanched and cut in 
 halves. 
 
 CUSTARD, LEMON. (1) Boil two 
 glasses of white wine, half a pint of water, 
 and two table-spoonfuls of brandy; when 
 nearly cold, add the grated peel and juice 
 of two lemons, with half a pound of pounded 
 loaf sugar, and the well-beaten yolks of six 
 eggs; stir it over a slow fire till it tliickens, 
 pour it into a basin, and stir now and then 
 till cold ; put it into a dish, or cups, with 
 sifted loaf sugar over tlie top. 
 
 CUSTARD, LEMON. (2) Put the 
 juice of four lemons, with three ounces of 
 pounded loaf sugar, into a deep dish. Boil 
 the grated peel of one lemon and two ounces 
 of poimded loaf sugar in a quart of cream, 
 and pour it ovei* the juice and sugai". It 
 will keep for four days. 
 
 CUSTARD, ORANGE. Sweeten the 
 strained juice of ten oranges with pounded 
 loaf sugar, stir it over the fire till hot, take 
 ofl" the scum, a,nd when nearly cold add to it 
 the beaten yolks of twelve eggs, and a pint 
 of cream ; put it into a saucepan, and stir 
 it over a slow fire till it diickens. Serve in 
 cups or a dish. 
 
 CUSTARD, RICE. Mix a pint of 
 milk, half a pint of cream, one ounce of sift- 
 ed ground rice, five or six bitter almonds, 
 blanched and pounded with two table-spoon- 
 fuls of rose water ; sweeten with loaf sugar, 
 and stir it all together till it nearly boils; 
 add the well-beaten yolks of tliree eggs ; 
 stir, and let it simmer for about a minute; 
 pour it into a dish, or serve it in cups, with 
 sifted loaf sugar over the top. 
 
 CUSTARD, TURKEY. Put a potmd 
 and a half of good rice into cold water over 
 the fire, and when it boils, take it off and 
 drain it well ; then put it into a large sauce- 
 pan, with twelve glasses of good milk, a 
 pound of butter,thesameof sugar, on which 
 have been rasped the peels of four oranges 
 or cedrats, and a grain of salt. Put the 
 saucepan over a moderate fire to swell the 
 rice, taking care tiiat none of the grains 
 burst ; stir it a little, and when done, add 
 to it two pounds of di7 cun-ants, the yolks 
 of twelve eggs, and some spoonfuls of Chan- 
 tilly cream ; after which mix in the twelve 
 whites whipped firm. Prepare the crust in 
 
DAM 65 
 
 tk^ iiiiual way; bake it in a moderate oven 
 two liours and a half; when I'eady for table, 
 brown it with a salamander. 
 
 CUSTARD, TURNING OUT. Mix 
 
 with the well-beaten yolks of four eggs a 
 pint of new milk, half an ounce of isinglass 
 dissolved, or enough of calfs-feet stock to 
 stiffen it, and two laurel leaves; sweeten 
 with pounded loaf sugar, and stir it over a 
 slow fire till it thickens ; })our it into a 
 basin, and stir it till a little cooled, then 
 pour it into cups to turn out when (juite cold. 
 Beat the yolks of two eggs with a little 
 cream; add it to nearly half a pound of 
 brown sugar burnt; strain it tJirough a 
 sieve, and when cold pour it round tlie cus- 
 tards. 
 
 DEV 
 
 D. 
 
 DAMSONS BOTTLED. Gather them 
 on k dry day before they are ripe, when they 
 have just turned their color. Put them in 
 wide-mouthed bottles, cork tliem close, and 
 let them stand a fortnight ; then carefully 
 examine them, and if any of them are 
 mouldy or spotted, take them out of the bot- 
 tles, and cork the rest close. Put die bot- 
 tles in sand, and they will keep good till the 
 spring. 
 
 DAMSON DUMPLINGS. Make a 
 ^ood hot paste crust, roll it pretty thin, lay it 
 in a basin, and put in as many damsons as 
 you please. Wet the edge of the paste and 
 close it up ; boil it in a cloth for an hour ; 
 pour melted butter over it, grate sugar round 
 the edge of die dish, and serve. 
 
 DAMSON JELLY. See Jelly. 
 
 DAMSON, OR OTHER PLUM 
 CHEESE. Take damsons that have been 
 preserved widiout sugar; pass them through 
 a sieve, to take out the skins and stones. 
 To every pound of pulp of fruit put half a 
 pound of loaf sugar, broke small ; boil them 
 together till it becomes quite stiff ; pour it 
 into four common-sized dinner plates, rubljed 
 with a little sweet oil ; put it into a warm 
 place to dry, and when quite firm, take it 
 from the plate, and cut it into any shape you 
 choose. N. B. — Damson cheese is generally 
 used in desserts. 
 
 DAMSONS FOR WINTER USE. 
 
 Gather the damsons when just rifxj, and per- 
 fectly sound ; fill a two-gallon brandy keg, 
 and pour over two pounds of molasses ; close 
 tlie keg firmly, and turn it every day. 
 
 DEER HORNS. Beat one white, and 
 six yolks of eggs; mix them widi five table 
 spoonfuls of pounded and sifted loaf sugar, 
 the same quantity of sweet cream, ten sweet 
 almonds, blanched and jwunded, the gi-ated 
 peel of one lemon, and as much flour as will 
 make the whole into a paste sufficiently 
 thick to roll out. Then cut it with tins for 
 the purpose, into the form of horns, branch- 
 es, or any other shape, and throw diem into 
 boiling lard. 
 
 DEVIL. (1) Score the leg of a roasted tur- 
 key, goose, or fowl ; pepper and salt it well, 
 broil it, and pour over it the following sauce 
 made quite hot: three table-spoonfuls (/f gra- 
 vy, one of melted butter, and one of lemon 
 juice, a large wine-glass of Port wine, of 
 mustard. Chili vinegar, Harvey sauce, and 
 mushroom catchup, a tea-spoonful each ; a lit- 
 tle Cayenne and pepper. The devil may be 
 served without a sauce, and be more highly 
 seasoned. When this dish is to he served 
 cold, the fat being carefully removed from the 
 goose, it may be ornamented or covered with 
 cold jelly made as f(jllows : — Boil for five 
 hours in four quarts of water the bones of the 
 goose, with diree nicely cleaned calf's feet, 
 strain it, and when cold take off all die fat, 
 and boil the jelly with some whole pe})per, 
 ginger, and salt; add two ounces of dissolv- 
 ed isinglass, the juice of two lemons, and 
 the beaten whites of three or four eggs ; stir 
 it while it is upon die fire, and allow it to 
 boil about ten minutes ; then run it through 
 a jelly-bag, and repeat this till it becomes 
 quite clear. 
 
 DEVIL. (2) The gizzard and rump, or 
 legs, &c. of a dressed turkey, capon, or 
 goose, or mutton or veal kidney, scored, 
 peppered; salted, and broiled, sent up for a 
 relish, being made very hot, has obtained 
 the name of a " devil." 
 
 DEVONSHIRE JUNKET. (1) Turn 
 some new milk fioin the cow widi a little 
 rennet ; sweeten some thick cream, add a 
 little pounded cinnamr.n, make it scalding 
 hot, and when cold pour it over the curd, 
 and put a little wine and sugar into die lx)t- 
 tom of the dish. 
 
 DEVONSHIRE JUNKET. (2) Turn 
 
 some new milk, as for cheese cakes, in a 
 wide shallow dish ; when cold, pour over the 
 top a pint of rich cream mixed with pounded 
 loaf sugar, six dessert s[x>onfuls of brandy, 
 and some grated nutmeg. 
 
 DEVONSHIRE WHITE POT. Beat 
 
 up a pint of cream with four eggs, a little 
 salt, some sliced mitineu;, and a good deal of 
 
 6* 
 
DUC 
 
 66 
 
 DUC 
 
 sugar; then slice veiy thin, almost the whole 
 of the crura of a penny loaf ; put it into a 
 dish ; pour the eggs and cream to it ; a 
 handful of Smyrna raisins boiled, and a 
 little sweet butter : bake it. 
 
 DIGESTER. An iron boiler, with a 
 top to screw on, to prevent the steam from 
 escaping. 
 
 DRIPPINGS, TO CLARIFY. Put 
 your dripping into a clean saucepan over a 
 stove or slow fire ; when it is just going to 
 boil, skim it well, let it boil, and then let it 
 stand till it is a little cooled; then pour it 
 through a sieve into a pan, Obs. — Well- 
 cleansed drippings, and the fat skimmings 
 of tlie brotli-pot, when fresh and sweet, will 
 baste every tiling as well as butter except 
 game and poultry, and should supply the 
 place of butter for common fries, &c.; foi* 
 which they are e(}ual to lard, esjiecially if 
 you re[)eat the clarifying twice over. N. B. 
 — If you keep it in a cool place, you may 
 preserve it a fortnight in summer, and long- 
 er in winter. When you have done frying, 
 let the dripping stand a few minutes to set- 
 tle, and then pour it duough a sieve into a 
 clean basin or stone pan, and it will do a 
 second and a diird time as well as it did 
 the fiist ; only the fat you have fried fish in 
 must not be used for any other purpose. 
 
 DRINK, COOLING. A palatable and 
 cooling drink may be made by pouring hot 
 water over slices of lemon ; when cold, to 
 be strained and sweetened. 
 
 DUCK. Mind your duck is well cleaned, 
 and wiped out with a clean cloth: for the 
 stuffing, take an ounce of onion and half an 
 ounce of green sage; chop them A-ery fine, 
 and mix them widi two ounces, i, e. about 
 a breakfast-cupful, of bread crumbs, a bit 
 of butter about as big as a walnut, a very 
 little black jiepper and salt, and the yolk of 
 an egg to bind it ; mix these thoroughly to- 
 gether, and put into the duck. From half 
 to three-(juarters of an hour will lie enough 
 to roast it, according to die size: contrive 
 to ha\'e the feet delicately crisp, as some 
 people are very fond of them ; to do this 
 nicely you must have a sharp fire. 
 
 DUCK, TO BOIL. Make a paste, al- 
 lowing half a pound of butter to a pound of 
 flour. Truss a duck as for boiling; put in- 
 to die inside a little pep|:)er and salt, one or 
 two sage leaves, and a little onion finely 
 minced; enclose the duck in the paste, with 
 a little jellied gravy. Boil it in a cloth, and 
 serve it with brown gravy poured round it. 
 
 DUCKS, TO CHOOSE. Their feet 
 
 should be supple, and they should be hard 
 and thick on the breast and belly. The feet 
 of a tame duck are thick, and inclining to a 
 dusky yellow. The feet of a wild duck are 
 reddish, and smaller than the tame ; they 
 should be picked dry. Ducklings should be 
 scalded, 
 
 DUCK, DRESSED IN DIFFERENT 
 WAYS, Take either a large duck, or two 
 ducklings, which truss like a fowl for boil- 
 ing ; put it into a ix)t (just about large 
 enough to hold die duck) with thin slices of 
 bacon, a little stock, a glass of wine, j^epper, 
 salt, onions, carrots, a head of celery sliced, 
 a bunch of sweet heibs, two cloves, and a 
 bay-leaf; when done, take out the duck, 
 wipe the fat off" very clean, and serve with 
 what sauce or ragout you choose, such as 
 sweedjieads, gieen-j)eas, turnips, chestnuts, 
 olives, cucunilaers, or any sort of stewed 
 greens, according to the season. 
 
 DUCKS, GEESE, DRESSED, OR 
 
 HASHED. Cut an onion into small dice; 
 put it into a stewpan with a bit of butter; 
 fry it, but do not let it get any color ; put 
 as much boiling water intQ the stewpan as 
 will make sauce for the hash; thicken it 
 with a little flour; cut up the duck, and put 
 it into the sauce to warm; do not let it 
 boil; season it with pepper and salt, and 
 catchup. Divide the duck into joints; lay 
 it by ready; put the trimmings and stufling 
 into a stewpan, with a pint and a half of 
 broth or water ; let it Ixiil half an hour, and 
 then laib it through a sieve ; put half an 
 ounce of butter into a stewpan; as it melts, 
 mix a table-spoonful of flour with it; stir it 
 over the fire a few minutes, then mix the 
 gravy with it by degrees; as soon as it boils, 
 take off the scum, and strain through a sieve 
 into a stewpan ; put in the duck, and let it 
 stew very gently for ten or fifteen minutes, 
 if the duck is rather undei-roasted: if there 
 is any fat, skim it ofl': line die dish you 
 serve it up in « itli sippets of biead either 
 fried or toasted. 
 
 DUCK OR GOOSE FORCED. Cut 
 the goose ofien at die battk, and carefully 
 take out the bones, excepting those of the 
 legs and wings. Take out all the meat fioin 
 the body, leaving the skin perfectly whole. 
 With the meat pound three-f|uarters of a 
 pound of lean and tender teef, add dirce 
 handfuls of grated bread, four well-beaten 
 eggs, and half a pint of rich sweet cream ; 
 season with pepper, mace, and salt; mix it 
 ail well together; let it stand for half an 
 hour, and then put it into die goose, which 
 sew up, and make it of as natural a form as 
 possible; but take care diat it he not too 
 much stuffed. Boil it for half an hour in 
 
DUG 
 
 67 
 
 DUM 
 
 some gootl stock, and then put It into a flat 
 tin baking-pan, with some fresh butter over 
 and under it. Bake it in an oven anollicr 
 half hour, and serve it wiUi the following 
 sauce: Brown a table-spoonful of butter 
 vvidi flour, add about a pint of the stock 
 in which the goose has been boiled, three 
 grated onions, two table-spoonfuls of capers 
 cut fine, a little lemon pickle, and a few 
 small pickled onions; boil it about a quar- 
 ter of an hour, and just befoie pouring it 
 over the goose, stir in gradually half a pint 
 of rich cream. 
 
 DUCK, HASHED, Cut a duck in 
 pieces, and flour it; put in a stewpan some 
 gravy, a little Port wine, shallots chopped 
 fine, salt, pepper, and a bit of lemon ; Iwil 
 this ; then put in the duck, toss it up, take 
 out the lemon, and serve widi toasted sippets. 
 
 DUCKS ROASTED. Season them 
 with sage and onion shred, pepper and salt; 
 half an hour will roast tliem. Giavy-sauce 
 w onion sauce. Always stew the sage and 
 onion in a little water, as it prevents its 
 eating stron<r, and takes oflT the rawness of 
 
 DUCK, TO STEW. (1) Cut one or two 
 
 ducks into cjuarters ; fry them a light brown 
 in butter; put them into a saucepan, witli 
 a pint of gravy, a tea-cupful of Port wine, 
 four onions whole, pepper and some salt, a 
 bunch of paisley, two sage leaves, a sprig 
 of winter savory, and sweet marjoi-am. 
 Cover the pan closely, and stew them till ten- 
 der; take out the herbs and pepper; skim it; 
 if the sauce be not sufliciently thick, mix with 
 two table-spoonfujs of it a little flour, and 
 stir it into the saucepan ; hoil it up, and 
 gai'nish tlie dish with the four onions. 
 
 DUCK, TO STEW. (2) Put into a duck 
 gome pepper, salt, a minced onion, and one 
 leaf of sage also minced; half roast it; 
 brown with two ounces of butter, a table- 
 spoonful i)f flour; add as much weak stock 
 or water as will half cover the duck, and 
 some pepper and salt; put in the duck, and 
 a quart of gree» peas; let it stew for half 
 an hour, stirring it now and then. For a 
 variety, a dozen of middling-si/.ed onions 
 may lie sui^stituted fur the j)eas, and stew- 
 ed the same length of time. Cold roasted 
 duck may be dressed qxactly in the same 
 manner; and to hash it, cut it into joints, 
 and heat it diorouglily in gravy, adding a 
 little soy, and a glass of Port wine. 
 
 DUCK, WILD. These birds should be 
 fat, the claws small, reddish and su|)ple; if 
 not fresh, on opening the lieak they will 
 
 smell disagieeable ; the breast and rump 
 should be firm and heRvy ; the flesh of the 
 hen-l)ird is the most delicate, though the 
 cock generally fetches the highest price. 
 Pick them dry, cut the wings vej-y close to 
 the lx)dy, take ofl" the necks, draw and singe 
 them, truss up tlie legs and skewer them ; 
 and having rubbed Uiem with their livers, 
 spit, and roast them ; take them up with 
 the gravy in, and serve with lemons. 
 
 DUCK, WILD, SALMIS OF. Cut 
 
 off" die best parts of a couple of roasted wild 
 ducks, and put die rest of the meat into a 
 mortar, with six shallots, a little parsley, 
 some pepper, and a bay-leaf, pound all these 
 ingiedients together well, and then put them 
 into a saucepan with four ladlesful of stock, 
 half a glass of white wine, the same of 
 broth, and a little grated nutmeg; reduce 
 these to half, strain them, and having laid 
 the pieces on a dish, cover them with the 
 above : keep the whole hot, not boiling, un- 
 til wanted for table. 
 
 DUMPLINGS, HARD. Mix as for a 
 paste, some flour with small beer or water, 
 and a little salt; roll them in balls rather 
 larger than an egg; when the water boils 
 put them in: half an hour will boil them; 
 currants may be added ; they are good Ixiil- 
 ed with lieef. They are eaten either with 
 cold or melted butter. 
 
 DUMPLINGS, HALF-HOUR. Mince 
 finely half a pound of suet, mix it with tlie 
 same proportion of grated bread, and a ta- 
 ble-spoonful of flour, a quaiter of a pound 
 of currants, some sugar, a little gi*ated lem- 
 on-peel, nutmeg, and three well-beaten eggs ; 
 roll die mixture into round balls, tie them 
 in bits of linen, and boil them for half an 
 iiour. Serve with melted butter and sugar 
 poured over diem. 
 
 DUMPLINGS, NORFOLK. Widi a 
 pint of milk, two eggs, a little salt, and 
 f-oine flour, make a batter; drop this in 
 small quantities into a pot of Iwiling water; 
 they will be boiled in three minutes; throw 
 them into a sieve or cullender to drain. 
 
 DUMPLING PASTE. Make a paste 
 with flour, milk, salt and yeast; let it stand 
 sometime in a warm place to lerment; dien 
 cut the ptiste into pieces of what size you 
 please, and boil them a good while; let 
 them cool; then cut each into two, and 
 soak them in milk, sugar, and lemon-j)eel, 
 about an hour, and drain and flour them fit 
 for flying; or, you may dip them in oil or 
 melted butter to broil, basting with the 
 same as they were dipped in. 
 
Bfift 
 
 68 
 
 EEL 
 
 DUTCH CREAM CHEESE. Beat 
 the yolks of eiglu, and the whites of three 
 eggs, and mix them with a pint of butter 
 milk; add tliis to tlnee quarts of boiling 
 milk just from die cow; let it boil up once, 
 take it off" die lire, cover it, and let it stand 
 a little that the curd may form ; then put it 
 into a small hair sieve, and press it with a 
 weight for twenty-four hours, when it may 
 be tiuned out. It is eaten with cream and 
 BUgar. 
 
 DUTCH FLUMMERY. (1) Boil, 
 with a pint of white wine, some sugar, die 
 juice of two, and the peel of one lemon, a 
 stick of cinnamon, and half an ounce of dis- 
 solved isinglass; stiain, and mix it with the 
 well-teaten yolks of seven eggs, stir it over 
 the fii-e till it sinmner, but do not allow it to 
 boil ; stir it till quite cold, and put it into a 
 
 DUTCH FLUMMERY. (2) Boil for 
 ten minutes, in half a pint of white wine, and 
 the same projjortion of water, the juice of 
 thiee, and the peel of two lemons, rather 
 more Uian a quarter of a jx)und of loaf sugar, 
 and an ounce of isinglass dissolved; strain, 
 and mix it gi-adually with the beaten yolks 
 of five eggs ; put it again over the fire, and 
 stir it for five minutes; stir it till cold, and 
 put it into a shape. 
 
 E. 
 
 ECHAUDE'S. Lay a quartern of flour 
 on a pasteboard or slab, make a hole in the 
 centre, in which put an ounce of salt, and a 
 little water to dissolve it, a pound of butter, 
 twenty eggs; mix the two latter well to- 
 gether, Uien the fiour; work it thoroughly 
 with your hands, if it be very firm add more 
 ^gs. When perfectly smooth, sprinkle a 
 cloth with fiour, lay die paste in it, and set 
 •it in a cool place for ten or twelve hours. 
 The next day heat about three quarts of 
 water, and having cut your paste into small 
 pieces, alx)nt an inch square, and liaving 
 floured each, put them into hot but not boil- 
 ing water, sliake the kettle the instant after 
 you have thrown Uiem in, and as they rise, 
 if they are firm to the touch, they are suf- 
 ficiently done, and must be taken out of the 
 saucepan, and thrown into cold water; let 
 tliem remain two or diree hours ; thenditiin, 
 and leave them again for tlu-ee hours or 
 more, and then bake Uiem for about twenty 
 minutes. 
 
 EELS AND SOLES, stewed Wio- 
 gy's way. Take two pounds of fine sil- 
 
 ver eels: the best are those that are lather 
 more than a half-crown piece in circumfer- 
 ence, (|uite fiesh, full of life, and " as brisk 
 as an eel:" wash them in several different 
 waters, and divide them into pieces alxjut 
 four inches long. Some cooks, dredge them 
 with a little flour, wipe them drj-, and then 
 egg and crumb them, and fry Uiem in drip- 
 pings till they are brown, and lay them to 
 dry on a hair sieve. Have ready a quart 
 of good beef gravy ; it must \ie cold when 
 you put the eels into it : set them on a slow 
 fire -to simmer very gently for about a quar- 
 ter of an hour, according to the size of Uie 
 eels; watch them, that they are not done 
 too much; take Uiem carefully out of the 
 stewpan with a fish-slice, so as not to teai* 
 their coats, and lay Uiem on a dibli about 
 two inches deep. 
 
 EELS BAKED. Skin and clean some 
 eels ; take a shallow pan, and cut the eels in 
 lengdis according to the depth of die ])an ; 
 put (hem in, letting Uiem stand upright in 
 it ; the pun should be filled ; put in a little 
 water, some salt, pepper, shallots cut small, 
 some sweet herbs, and a little parsley cut 
 small ; st!t them in the oven to bake ; when 
 they are done take the licjuor that comes 
 from them, put it into a saucepan, and thick- 
 en it with a piece of butter rolled in flour, 
 and a little white wine. 
 
 EELS BOILED. Small ones are pre- 
 ferable. Curl and put them on in boiling 
 sall-and-water, with a little vinegar. Gar- 
 nish with parsley. Sauce; — parsley and 
 butter. 
 
 EELS COLLARED. Take an eel, and 
 cut it oyicn ; take out the bones ; cut off' the 
 head and tail ; lay the eel flat, and shred 
 sage as fine as possible; mix with black 
 pepper pounded, nutmeg grated, and salt; 
 lay it all over the eel ; roll it up hard in a 
 cloth ; tie it up tight at each end ; then set 
 over Uie fire some water, with pepper and 
 salt, fi\e or six cloves,' three or four l)];u]e3 
 of mace, a bay-leaf or two ; boil lluse with 
 the lx>nes, head, and fail, well ; dieu put in 
 the eel, and boil it till it is tender; then take 
 it out, and boil the liquor, and when it is 
 cold, put it to the eel ; do not take ofl' the 
 cloth till you use them. 
 
 EELS FRIED. Cut them into piectes 
 of three or four inches long, and then score 
 across in two or three places ; seast)n them 
 with pepper and salt,and dust Uiem with fl-jur, 
 or dip them into an egg beat up, and sprinkle 
 Uiem wiUi finely-grated bread crumbs; fry 
 them in fresh lard or dripping. Let them 
 drain and dry upon the back of a sieve be-' 
 fore the fire. Garnish wiUi paisley. Sauce; 
 
EEL 
 
 69 
 
 EGG 
 
 —melted butter, and lemon pickle. If small, 
 they may be curled and fried whole. 
 
 EEL PIE.* Take eels about half a pound 
 each ; cut tliem into pieces three inches long, 
 season them with pepper and salt, and lill 
 your dish. Add a gill of water or veal 
 broth, cover it with paste, rub it over with a 
 paste-brush dipped in yolk of egg, ornament 
 it with some of tlie same paste, bake it an 
 hour; and when done, make a hole in tlie 
 centre, and pour in the following sauce 
 through a funnel: the trimmings boiled in 
 half a pint of veal stock, seasoned with pep- 
 per and salt, a table-spoonful of lemon-juice, 
 and thickened with flour and watei', strained 
 tlirough a fine sieve: add it boiling hot. 
 
 EELS POTTED. Bone diem; season 
 them well upon both sides with pepper, salt, 
 a little mace, and Jamaica pepper ; let them 
 lie for six hours, then cut them into small 
 pieces, and pack them close into a dish; 
 cover them with a coarse paste and bake 
 them. When quite cold, take off the paste, 
 and pour over them clarified butter. 
 
 EEL SOUP. See Soups. 
 
 EELS STEWED. (1) Cut the eels 
 into pieces about four inches long; take two 
 onions, two shallots, a bunch of parsley, 
 thyme, two bay leaves, a little mace, black 
 and Jamaica pppper, a pint of good gravy, 
 the same of Port wine, and tlie same of vin- 
 egar, six anchovies bruised ; let all boil to- 
 getlier for ten minutes; take out the eels; 
 boil the sauce till reduced to a quart; strain 
 and tliicken it with a table-spoonful of floui", 
 mixed smoodi in a little cold water. Put 
 in the eels, and boil them till they are ten- 
 der. Eels may also be roasted with a com- 
 mon stuffing. 
 
 EELS STEWED. (2) Cut the eels 
 into pieces, season well two pounds and a 
 half with salt and black pepper, put an ounce 
 of butter into a stewpan with a large handful 
 of sorrel, three or four sage leaves, half an 
 onion cut small, a little grated lemon-peel, 
 and one anchovy chopped; put in the eels 
 and pour over half a pint of water, stew 
 tliem gently for half an hour, shaking them 
 occasionally; Ijefoie serving, add a little 
 grated nutmeg, and the juice of half a lemon. 
 
 EELS SPITCHCOCKED. This the 
 French cooks call the English way of dress- 
 ing eels. Take two middling-sized silver 
 eels, scour them with salt, slit them on the 
 belly side, and take out the bones and vrash 
 and wipe them nicely ; then cut them into 
 pieces about three inches long, and wipe 
 Uiem quite dry; put two ounces of butter 
 
 into a stewpan with a little minced parsley, 
 thyme, sage, pepper, and salt, and a vei^ 
 little chopped eschalot ; set the stewpan 
 over the fire ; when the butter is melted, 
 stir die ingredients together, and take it off 
 tlie fire, mix the yolks of two eggs with them, 
 and dip tlie eel in, a piece at a time, and 
 then roll them in bread-crumbs, making as 
 much stick to them as you can ; then rub 
 the gridiron with a bit of suet, set it high 
 over a very clear fire, and broil your eels of 
 a fine crisp brown. Dish them with crisp 
 parsley, and send up with plam butter in a 
 boat, and anchovy and butter. 
 
 EGGS. (1) Eggs may be preserved for 
 twelve months, in a sweet and palatable state 
 for eating in the shell, or using for salads, by 
 boiling them for one minute; and when 
 wanted for use let them be boiled in the 
 usual manner: the white may be a little 
 tougher than a new-laid egg, but the yolk 
 will show no difference. 
 
 EGGS. (2) Pour a gallon of water 
 over a pound of unslacked lime, stir it well ; 
 die following day, pour off the clear water 
 into a jar, and put in the eggs as they are 
 laid. In tiiis manner tliey will continue 
 perfectly good for six months or more. 
 
 There are so many different ways of 
 dressing eggs, that the recipes would almost 
 fill a volume ; we have, dierefore, given such 
 as we esteem the best, and die most adapted 
 to the English taste. 
 
 EGGS AND BACON RAGOUT. 
 
 Boil half a dozen eggs for ten minutes; 
 throw them into cold water; peel diem and 
 cut them into halves ; pound the yolks in a 
 marble mortar, with about an ecjual fjuantity 
 of the white meat of dressed fowl, or veal, a 
 little chopped parsley, an anchovy, an escha- 
 lot, a quarter of an ounce of butter, a table- 
 spoonful of mushroom catchup, a little Cay- 
 enne, some bread-cruinbs, and a very little 
 beaten mace, or allspice ; incorporate them 
 well together, and fill the halves of the 
 whites with this mixture ; do diem over 
 witli the yolk of an egg, and brown them in 
 a Dutch oven, and sei ve them on relishing 
 rashers of bacon or ham. 
 
 EGGS AND BREAD. Put half a hand- 
 ful of bread crambs into a saucepan, with a 
 small quantity of cream, salt, pepper, and 
 nutmeg, and let it stand till the bread has 
 imbibed all the cream ; Uien break ten egge 
 into it, and having beaten diem up together, 
 fiy it like an omelet. 
 
 TV 
 
 EGGS AND CREAM. Boil half a pint . 
 of cream till reduced to half the quantity; 
 dien add eight eggs, season them with salt 
 
EGG 
 
 70 
 
 EGG 
 
 and pepper, boil lliem together, till tlie eggs 
 are partly hard ; i^at^s a ^aluinaiider over tlie 
 top, and serve. 
 
 EGGS A LA TRIPE. Cut into diick 
 round slices a dozen of hard-boiled eggs, 
 and put diein into the following sauce: cut 
 thvea large white onions into dice, fry them 
 white in Ijutter, and when nearly done, dust 
 them witli flour, and moisten tliem with s<jme 
 milk and a few spoonfuls of cream; keep 
 stirring with a wooden spoon, to prevent 
 tlieir burning. When tlie sauce is done, 
 grate in a little nutmeg, season with a little 
 --salt and pepper, and put in the eggs. 
 
 EGG BALLS. Boil four eggs for ten 
 minutes, and put diem into cold water ; when 
 they ai-e quite cold, put die yolks into a 
 mortar with the yolk of a raw egg, a tea- 
 spoonful of flour, same of chop|)ed pai-sley, 
 as much salt as will lie on a shilling, and a 
 little black pepper, or Cayenne; iiib them 
 well together, roll diem into small balls (as 
 they swell in boiling) ; boil Uiem a couple 
 of minutes. 
 
 EGGS BOILED, to eat in the 
 SHELL, OR FOR SALADS. The fieslier 
 laid the belter: put diem into boiling water; 
 if you like the white just set, about two 
 minutes boiling is enough; anew-laid egg 
 will take a little more; if you wish die yolk 
 to be set, it will take three, and to boil it 
 liard for a salad, ten minutes. A new-laid 
 egg will re(^uire boiling longer than a stale 
 one, by half a minute. 
 
 EGGS BOURGEOISE. Spread some 
 butter over the Ixdtom of a dish, cover it 
 entirely with thii\ slices of crumb of bread, 
 on diat lay thin slices of cheese, dien eight 
 or ten eggs, season diem with salt, pepper 
 and nutmeg, set die dish over a stove to cook 
 gently till done. 
 
 EGGS, BUTTERED. Beat and strain 
 ten or twelve eggs ; put a piece of butter into 
 a saucepan and keep turning it one way 
 tiU melted ; put in the beaten eggs, and stir 
 them round with a silver sjx)on till Uiey be- 
 come quite thick. Serve diem in a dish 
 upon buttered toast. They may be eaten 
 with fisli, fowl, or sausages. 
 
 EGGS EN SURPRISE. Take a dozen 
 eggs, and make a small hole at each end of 
 every egg, through which pass a stmw and 
 break the yolk ; dien blow out the yolk care- 
 fiilly. Wash the shells, and having drained, 
 di-y them in the open air ; mix the yolk of 
 an egg widi a little flour to close one of the 
 holes of the shells, and when dry, fill half die 
 nuuiber by means of ^ small funnel, vvidi 
 
 chocolate cream, and the remaining six with 
 coffee or orange-cream ; close the other end 
 of your eggs, and put them into a saucepan 
 of hot water ; set them on tHfe fire, taking 
 care diey do not boil ; when done, remove 
 the cement from the ends; dry, and serve 
 them on a folded napkin. 
 
 EGGS, FRIED. Eggs boiled hard, cut 
 into slices, and fried, may be sen'ed as a 
 second coiu-se dish, to eat with roasted 
 chickens. 
 
 EGGS FRIED WITH BACON. Lay 
 
 some slices of fine streaked bacon (not more 
 than a quarter of an inch thick) in a clean 
 dish, and toast them Ix;fore die fire in a 
 cheese-toaster, tiu-ning diem when the upper 
 side is browned ; first ask diose who are to 
 eat die bacon, if they wish it much or little 
 done, t. e. curled and crisfied, or mellow 
 and s<»ft: if the latter, parboil it first. Well- 
 cleansed dripping, or lard, or fiesh butter, 
 are the best fats for fiying eggs. Be sure 
 the frying-pan is quite clean ; when the fat 
 is hot, break two or three eggs into it ; do 
 not turn them, but, while diey are fiying, 
 keep pouring some of die fat over them with 
 a spoon ; when the yolk just liegins to look 
 white, which it will in about a couple of 
 minutes, they are done enough; die white 
 must not lose its transparency, but the yolk 
 lie seen blushing through it: if they are 
 done nicely, diey will look as white and 
 delicate as if they had lieen poached ; take 
 diem up widi a tin slice, drain die fat from 
 them, trim tliein neatly, and send diem up 
 widi die bacon round them. 
 
 EGGS FRIED, AND MINCED HAM 
 
 OR BACON. Choose some fine salt jioik, 
 streaked with a good deal of lean ; cut this 
 into very thin slices, and afterward into 
 small scjuare pieces; throw them into a 
 stewpan, and set it over a gentle fire; that 
 diey may lose some of their fat. W^hen as 
 much as Avill fieely come is thus melted fiom 
 them, lay them on a wiu-m dish. Put into 
 a stew|}an a ladle-full of melted bacon or 
 lard ; set it on a stove ; ))ut in abjut a dozen 
 of die small pieces of bacon, dien stoop the 
 stewpan and break in an egg. Manage this 
 carefully, and the egg will presently be done: 
 it will he vei-y round, and the little dice of 
 bacon will stick to it all over, so that it will 
 make a very pretty apj)earance. Take care 
 the yolks do not haiden ; when the egg is 
 dius done, lay it carefully in a warm di&li, 
 and do die odiei-s. 
 
 EGG FRITTERS. Pound a dozen 
 hard boiled eggs with a little cream, and a 
 (juarter of a {Knmd of beef marrow ; then , 
 pound half a dozen macaroons, some bitter 
 
EG G 
 
 almiQ^^, a little sugar, and lemon-peel; 
 mix these with the pounded eggs, and form 
 them into fritters, dip them into a batter 
 made with flour, butter, salt, and lemon- 
 peel ; fry them in vei-y hot lard, sprinkle su- 
 gar over, and serve. 
 
 EGGS FROTHED. Beat up the yolks 
 of eight eggs and die whites of four (set 
 aside the remaining whites) with a spoonful 
 of water, some salt, sugar, and die juice of a 
 lemon ; fry this, and tlien put it on a dish ; 
 whip the four whites (which were set aside) 
 to a froth with sugar, and place it over the 
 fried eggs ; bake it in a Dutch oven, or with 
 a high cover fitted for tlie purpose. 
 
 EGGS, GLASS. Butter a dish, and 
 break into it a piece of butter nearly as large 
 as an egg: add a tea-cupful of cream, and 
 drop in four or five eggs ; put upon each a 
 little pepper and salt, set the dish upon a 
 stove, and serve it when the eggs are firm, 
 which may be in ten or fifteen minutes. 
 
 EGG MARMALADE. (1) Blanch and 
 pound with a little rose water, two ounces of 
 sweet almonds, the same of orange marmalade, 
 and four of citron; add two spoonfuls of bran- 
 dy, and when quite smooth, the beaten yolks of 
 six and the whites of two eggs, with a little 
 pounded loaf sugar; put it into a saucepan, 
 and stir it till it becomes thick, then pour it 
 into a shajx;. When quite cold, serve it, 
 turned out and garnished with flowers. 
 
 EGG MARMALADE. (2) Clarifyapound 
 of sugar, keeping it ratlier thick ; when cool, 
 add to it the yolks of twenty eggs, which 
 sliould be perfectly free fiom the whites, and 
 well stirred, but not beaten; set these on 
 the fire, stining continually until it boils, and 
 then continue to stir until sufficiently thick; 
 if any scum should arise, it need not be taken 
 off, as the boilingandstirring will effectually 
 remove it. Orange-flower water may be 
 added, if approved. 
 
 EGGS, TO POACH. The cook who 
 wishes to display her skill in poadiing, 
 must endeavour to procure eggs that have 
 been laid a couple of days — those that are 
 quite new-laid are so milky that, take all 
 the care you can, your cooking of them will 
 seldom procure you the praise of being a 
 prime poacher; you must have fi-esh eggs, 
 or it is equally impossible. The beauty of 
 a poached egg is for the yolk to be seen 
 blushing through the white, which should 
 only be just sufficiently hardened, to form a 
 transparent veil for the egg. Have' some 
 boiling water in a tea-kettle ; pass as much 
 of it through a clean cloth as will half fill a 
 stewpan; break the egg into a cup, and 
 
 71 ELD 
 
 when tlie water boils, remove the stewpan 
 from tile stove, and gently slip the egg into 
 it ; it must stand till the white is set ; tlien 
 put it over a very moderate fire, and as soon 
 as the water boils, the egg is ready ; take it 
 up with a slice, and neatly round off the 
 ragged edges of the white; send them up on 
 bread toasted on one side only, with or with- 
 out butter; or without a toast, garnished 
 with streaked bacon nicely fried, or slices 
 of broiled beef or mutton, anchovies, pork 
 sausages, or spinage. The bread should be 
 a little larger than die egg, and about a 
 quarter of an inch Uiick ; only just give it a 
 yellow color: if you toast it brown, it will 
 get a bitter flavour ; or moisten it by pour- 
 ing a little hot water upon it: some sprinkle 
 it wiUi a few drops of vinegar, or of essence 
 of anchovy. 
 
 EGGS POACHED, with Sauce of 
 MINCED Ham. Poach the eggs as before 
 directed, and take two or three slices of 
 boiled ham; mince it fine with a gherkin, a 
 morsel of onion, a little parsley, and jjepper 
 and salt ; stew all together a quarter of an 
 hour ; seiTe up your sauce about half boiling ; 
 put the eggs in a dish, squeeze over the juice 
 of half a Seville orange, or lemon, and pour 
 the sauce over them. 
 
 EGG PUNCH. Take a punch-glass, 
 and put into it a wine-glass of sirup of punch 
 (see that article), and the yolk of an egg; 
 beat them together with a spoon, and then 
 fill up die glass with boiling water, stirring 
 a litde as you pour it in. 
 
 EGG TOAST. Put a glass of thick 
 cream, some sugar, two or tlu'ee macaroons 
 pounded, with a few almonds, a little grated 
 lemon, give them a boil; then add the yolks 
 of eight and whites of three eggs, beat the 
 whole up over a slow fire ; and lay on very 
 thin slices of fried bread; sprinkle sugar 
 over, and serve. 
 
 EGG WINE. Beat up an egg, mix with 
 it a spoonful of cold water ; set on die fire a 
 glass of white wine, half a glass of water, 
 sugar, and nutmeg. When it boils, pour a 
 little of it to die egg by degrees, till the 
 whole is in, stin-ing it weU; then return the 
 whole into the saucepan, set it over a gentle 
 fire, stir it one way for a minute, not longer, 
 for if it lx>il, or the egg is stale, it will curdle ; 
 serve widi toast. You may make it as above, 
 without warming the egg, and it will be 
 lighter on the stomach, though not so agree- 
 able to the palate. 
 
 ELDER FLOWER FRITTERS. 
 
 They are made vvhilat the elder flowers are 
 in bloom; and they diould raai-inate diree 
 
END 
 
 72 
 
 ESP 
 
 or four hours in brandy, sugar, orange-flower 
 water, and lemon-peel; when diained, dip 
 them in a good thick batter to fry, and serve 
 with rasped sugar, as in general. 
 
 ELDER ROB. Gatlier the elderberries 
 when quite ripe, put them into a stone jar, 
 tie a bladder or paper over tlie top, and 
 place the jar in a pan of water ; let it boil 
 till the terries are very soft; sti-ain tliem 
 through a coarse cloth, and to every pint of 
 juice allow half a pound of good brown su- 
 gar; put it into a preservnig-pan, stir it, and 
 when it boils, take off the scunj, and let it 
 boil for one hour. 
 
 ELDER VINEGAR. Choose the elder- 
 flowers when just blown, take away all the 
 stalks, and when tlie flowers are alx)ut 
 half dry, put them into a jar, and fill the jar 
 with vinegar, close it tight, and let it stand 
 in the sun for twenty days ; then draw it off, 
 press the flowers, and having filtered tiie 
 whole, bottle it; take care to keep the bot- 
 tles closely corked. 
 
 ELDERBERRIES. Can be made to 
 produce excellent wine, allowing to a ten- 
 gallon cask forty pounds of fiuit, forty pounds 
 of sugai-, and a (luarter of a pound of tartar. 
 When elder ben-y wine is desired for a warm 
 cordial, it is made in tlie following manner: 
 — Twenty-five pounds of fruit are to be boil- 
 ed for an hour, in eleven gallons of water, 
 and along with it, tied in a piece of linen, 
 one ounce of allspice, and two of ginger; 
 forty pounds of sugar being put into a tub, 
 the boiling liquor is strained over it, pressing 
 tlie fruit quite dry ; a quarter of a pound of 
 crude tartar, or cream of tartar, is dien 
 added to the liquid. When it has stood two 
 days in the tub, it may lie removed to the 
 cask, treated, as for sweet wine, in the usual 
 manner, and bottled in March following. 
 When to be drank, a portion of it is heated 
 with some sugar, two or three cloves, and a 
 little nutmeg. 
 
 X 
 
 EMPOTAGE. Put into a large sauce- 
 pan, three or four pounds of beef-steaks, a 
 knuckle of veal, and foui* old hens ; moisten 
 this quantity of meat with two ladiesful of 
 broth ; set it on a stove, and let it boil till 
 properly reduced, taking care that none of 
 the meat^ burns, which would make tlie 
 empotage of too high a color; fill up your 
 saucepan with broth, adding carrots, turnips, 
 and onions; let all lliese ingredients stand 
 over the fire for tliree hours and a half; then 
 strain the whole through a silk sieve, tliat 
 it may be perfectly clear. 
 
 ENDIVE IN VELOUTE. Take ofl" 
 'all the outer leaves of your endive, and having 
 
 opened the hearts, put them into cold water 
 to wash diem. In the meanwhile heat a 
 kettle of water, put in it a handful of salt, 
 then throw in tlie endive ; keep it constantly 
 under die water, to jirevent their turning 
 black. As soon as the endive is tender, 
 drain, and then put it into cold water, and 
 when quite cold, drain it again ; press the 
 water out with your hands ; then chop it 
 small, and put it into a saucepan, with some 
 butter, salt, and pepper, stir it well, and 
 then add five spoonfuls of veloute, the same 
 of consomme; reduce it till pretty thick, and 
 then put it in a dish, with fried bread round 
 it. Endive may also be dressed with cream, 
 in which case, put two spoonfuls of flour into 
 it, and moisten it with cream. 
 
 ENDIVE IN .GRAVY OF VEAL. 
 
 Wash and clean thoroughly ten or twelve 
 heads of fine endive, take oft' the outer leaves, 
 and blanch tlie heads in hot water ; throw 
 them into cold water, and then scuieeze them 
 as dry as possible. Stew them in as much 
 gravy as will cover them ; add a tea-spoon- 
 fiil of pounded sugar, and a little salt. When 
 perfectly tender, put in a little veloute sauce, 
 and serve quite hot. 
 
 ENTREE. There is no word precisely 
 equivalent to this in English. Any dish of 
 butcher's meat, fowl, game, or fish, dressed 
 for the Jirst course, is called an entree. 
 
 ENTREMET. There is no word equiv- 
 alent to this in English. All dishes of veg- 
 etables, jellies, pastries, salad, prawns, lob- 
 sters, and, in general, everything that aj)pears 
 in the second course, except die roast, is 
 called an entremet. 
 
 ESCHALOT WINE. Peel, mince, and 
 pound in a mortar, diree ounces of eschalots, 
 and infuse them in a pint of Sherry for ten 
 days ; then pour oft" the clear liquor on tliree 
 ounces more eschalots, and let the wine 
 stand on them ten days longer. This is 
 rather the most expensive, but infinitely 
 the most elegant preparation of eschalot, 
 and imparts the onion flavour to soups and ■ 
 sauces, for chops, steaks, or bioiled meats, 
 hashes, &c. more agreeably tlian any : 
 it does not leave any unpleasant taste in 
 tlie mouth, or to the breath ; nor repeat, 
 as almost all other preparations of garlic, 
 onion, &c. do. N. B. — An ounce of scraped 
 horseradish may be added to the above, and 
 a little tliin-cut lemon-peel. 
 
 ESPAGNOLE. Take an old fowl, and 
 about fourteen pounds of leg or shoulder of 
 veal ; chop the latter into pieces, and put it, 
 widi very little water, into a large saucepan, 
 with two carrots, three onions, a pound of 
 
FIL 
 
 73 
 
 FIS 
 
 faan, B few peppercorns, a small quantity of 
 spice, and a clove of garlic ; let this stew 
 over a moderate fire, sliaking it fitHjueiitly, 
 till it becomes of a brown color, when you 
 may add to it a sufficient quantity of hot 
 Mrater, to come about four inches above the 
 meat. ' Set it by the side of die stove to boil 
 gently, skimming when necessary, till the 
 meat comes from the bones ; then strain it 
 tlirough a silk sieve, and set it by for use. 
 
 ESSENCE. Take half a Ijottle of white 
 wine, half a glass of the best vinegar, the 
 juice of two lemons, thi-ee ounces of salt, 
 half an ounce of whole pepper, a little nut- 
 meg and mace, four cloves, four bay-leaves, 
 thyme, parsley, one small clove of garlic, ten 
 shallots, pounded, and an ounce of diy mush- 
 rooms; put all tliese ingredients into an 
 earthen pan, over a brisk iire ; when near 
 boiling, lessen the fire, and let it stand 
 on hot ashes for six or seven hours; then 
 strain it tlu-ough a coarse sieve, and after- 
 wards filter it. Keep it in closely corked 
 bottles: a small quantity is sufficient to fla- 
 vour a dish. 
 
 F. 
 
 FANCHONETTES. Put into a sauce- 
 pan, two ounces of flour, three of sugar, one 
 of butter, two of pounded almonds, some 
 green lemon-peel, two yolks, and one whole 
 egg, a little salt, and half a pint of milk; 
 put these ingredients on tlie fire, and let them 
 set like a cream ; line some tartlet-tins, or 
 moulds, widi puff" paste, fill them with the 
 preparation; place the moulds on a tin, and 
 bake the fanchonettes in a brisk oven ; when 
 about three parts done, take them out, put 
 frotlied eggs on, sprinkle sugar over, and re- 
 place them in the oven to finish the baking. 
 
 FAWN, Like a sucking pig, should be 
 dressed almost as soon as killed. When 
 very young, it is trussed, stuffed, and spit- 
 ted the same way as a hare: but they are 
 better eating when of the size of a house 
 lamb, and are then roasted in quarters ; the 
 hind-quarter is most esteemed. 
 
 They must be put down to a very quick 
 fire, and eitlier basted all the time they are 
 roasting, or be covered with sheets of fat 
 bacon ; when done, baste it with butter, and 
 dredge it with a little salt and flour, till 
 you make a i:ice froth on it. 
 
 N. B. — We advise our friends to half 
 roast a fawn as soon as they receive it, and 
 then make a hash of it. 
 
 Send up venison sauce with it. 
 
 FILBERT ROLLS. 
 7 
 
 Having peeled 
 
 half a pound of filberts, put them into a 
 preserving pan over a moderate fire, and 
 stir them constantly with a spatula until 
 they become equally colored of a light yel- 
 low: tlien set them to cool. When cold, 
 pound diem with a little white of egg to a 
 paste ; then mix them with half a pound of 
 flour, the same of powder sugar, and the 
 yolks of four or five eggs, and then finish 
 the operation as directed for almond rolls. 
 Froth, and trace on the surface an ear of 
 wheat, or anything else, with die point of a 
 knife: take care to dry them well in the 
 baking, that they may be crisp. Coarse 
 powdei* sugar may also be strewed ovei", be- 
 fore they are put in the oven. 
 
 FISH. We insert all the best remarks 
 that various culinary authors have made 
 on Fish. 
 
 There is a general rule in choosing 
 most kinds of fish; if their gills are red, 
 their eyes plump, and the whole fish stiff", 
 they are good ; if, on the contrary, the gills 
 are pale, the eyes sunk, and the fish flabby, 
 they are stale. The greatest care should 
 be taken that the fish is properly cleansed 
 before being dressed, but not washed be- 
 yond what is absolutely necessary for clean- 
 ing, as by perpetual watering, the flavour 
 is diminished. When clean, if the fish is 
 to be boiled, some salt, and a little vinegar 
 should be put into the water, to give it 
 finnness. Care should be taken to boil the 
 fish well, but not to let it break. Cod, 
 whiting, and haddock are much better for 
 being a little salted, and kept for a day. 
 
 There is often a muddy smell and taste at- 
 tached to fresh-water fish, which may be 
 got rid of by soaking it, after it has been 
 diorouglily cleaned in strong salt and wa- 
 ter ; or, if the fish is not too large, scald it 
 in the same ; then dry, and dress it. 
 
 Care should be taken that die fish is put into 
 cold water, and allowed to do very gently, 
 otherwise the outside will break before the 
 inside is done. 
 
 Crimp fish must be put into boiling water ; 
 and as soon as it boils up, a little cold 
 water should be put in, to" check die exces- 
 sive heat, and simmer it for a few minutes. 
 
 If the fish is not taken out of the water 
 the instant it is done, it wiU become wool- 
 ly; to ascertain when it is ready, the fish 
 plate on which it is dressed may be drawn 
 up, and if sufficiently done, it will leave the 
 bone. To keep hot for serving, aiid to 
 prevent it fiom losing its color, the fish 
 plate should be placed crossways over the 
 fish-kettle, and a clean cloth put over the fish. 
 
 Small fish may be either nicely firied 
 plain, or done over with egg and bread 
 crumbs, and then fried. Upon tlie dish on 
 which the fish is to he served, should be 
 
FIB 
 
 74 
 
 FIS 
 
 placed a folded damask napkin, and upon 
 this put the fish, with llie liver and roe; 
 then garnish the dish with horse-radish, 
 pjirsley, and lemon. Fish is a dish which 
 18 almost more attended to than any other. 
 
 To fry or broil fish properly, after it 
 b well cleaned and washed, it should be 
 wrapped in a nice soft cloth, and when 
 perfectly di-y, wetted with egg, and sprink- 
 led all over widi very fine bread crumbs ; it 
 will look still better to be done over with 
 egg and crumbs a second time. Then liav- 
 ing on the fire a thick-bottomed frying-pan, 
 with plenty of lard or dripping, boiling hot; 
 put the fish into it, and let it fry tolerably 
 quick till it is done, and of a nice brown 
 yellow. If it is done before it has obtained 
 a nice brown color, the pan should be drawn 
 to tlie side of the fire, the fish carefully 
 taken up, and placed either upon a sieve 
 turned upwards, or on the under side of 
 k dish, and placed l)efore the fii-e to drain, 
 and finish browning; if wanted particularly 
 nice, a sheet of cap paper must be put to 
 receive the fish. Fish fried in oil obtains a 
 much finer color than when done in lard or 
 dripping. Butter should never be used, as 
 it give^ a bad color. Garnish your dish 
 with a fringe of cm-led raw parsley, or with 
 fried parsley. 
 
 When fish is to be broiled, it must be 
 seasoned, floured, and done on a veiy clean 
 gridiron; which, when hot, should be rub- 
 bed over with suet, to hinder the fish from 
 sticking. It should be broiled over a very 
 clear fire, to prevent its tasting smoky, and 
 gieat care must be taken not to scorch it. 
 
 FISH. This department of the busi- 
 ness of the kitchen requires consideiable ex- 
 perience, and depends more upon practice 
 than any otjier. A very few moinents, more 
 or less, will thoroughly spoil fish ; which, to 
 be eaten in perfection, must never be put 
 on tJie table till the soup is taken off. 
 
 So many circumstajices operate on this 
 occasion, that it is almost impossible to 
 write general rules. 
 
 There are decidedly different opinions, 
 whether fish should be put into cold, tepid, 
 or boiling water. 
 
 Fish must by no means be allowed to re- 
 main in tlie water after it is boiled; if 
 therefore it should be ready before it can he 
 sent to table, it must be dished, the cover 
 put on, and a cloth put over it. The dish 
 is then to be set across the fish-kettle. 
 
 Fish should be fried over a clear quick 
 fire ; and with dripping, or hog's lard in 
 preference to butter. The ^lan should be 
 deep; and to ascertain that it is clean, a 
 little fat is first fried in it, poured out, and 
 the pan wiped with a clean cloth; as much 
 dripping or lard is tlien put in as will en- 
 
 tirely cover the fish. When it is boiling 
 hot, and begins to smoke, the fish is put in ; 
 if small, tliey may be turned in three or four 
 minutes, by sticking in a fork near the head 
 with one hand, and with the otlier support- 
 ing the tail with a fish-slice. When they 
 are done, they should be laid before tbe 
 fire upon an old soft towel, and tumed now 
 and then till tliey are dry upon boUi sides ; 
 or they may be put upon a targe sieve, 
 turned upwards, and which is kept for the 
 purpose, or put on the under side of a dish. 
 
 The fire for broiling fish must be very 
 clear, and the gridiron perfectly clean, 
 which, when hot, should be rubbed with a 
 bit of suet. The fish, while broiling, must 
 be often turned. 
 
 Several I'espectable fishmongers and ex- 
 perienced cooks have assured the editor, 
 that they are often in danger of losing their 
 credit by fish too fresh, and especially tur- 
 bot and cod, which, like meat, require a 
 certain time before tliey are in the best con- 
 dition to be dressed. They reconnnend 
 them to be put into cold water, salted in 
 proportion of about a quarter of a [wund of 
 salt to a gallon of water. Sea-water is 
 best to boil sea -fish in. It not only saves the 
 expense of salt, but the flavor is better. Let 
 them boil slowly till done; the sign of which 
 is, that the skin of tlie fish rises up, and 
 the eyes turn white. 
 
 It is tlie business of the fishmonger to 
 clean them, &.c. but the careful cook will 
 always wash them again. 
 
 Gainish with slices of lemon, finely scrap- 
 ed horseradish, fi-ied oysters, smelts, whit- 
 ings or strips of soles. 
 
 The liver, roe, and chitterlings should be 
 placed so that the carver may obser\e diem, 
 and invite the guest to partake of them. 
 
 Fish, like meat, recjuires more cooking 
 in cold than in warm weatlier. If it be- 
 comes FROZEN, it must be thawed by the 
 means we have directed for meat. 
 
 Fish are plenty and good, and in great 
 variety, in all the towns and cities on the 
 extensive coast of the United States. Some 
 of the interior towns are also supplied with 
 fish peculiai- to the lakes and rivers of this 
 country. 
 
 All kinds of fish are best sometime before 
 diey begin to spawn ; and are unfit for food 
 for sometime after they have spawned. 
 
 Fish, like animals, are fittest for tlie ta- 
 ble when diey aie just fiiU grown ; and what 
 has lieen said respecting vegetables, applies 
 equally well to fish. 
 
 The most convenient utensil to boil fish 
 in, is a turbot-kettle. This sliould be 
 twenty-four inches long, twenty-two wide, 
 and nine deep. It is an excellent vessel to 
 boil a ham in, &c. &c. 
 
 N. B.— The liver of the fish pounded and 
 
FIS 
 
 75 
 
 FLE 
 
 mixed with butter, with a little lemon-juice, 
 &c. is an elegant and inoffensive relish to 
 fish. Musluoom sauce extempore or the 
 soup of mock turtle, will make an excellent 
 fish sauce. 
 
 For liquids, you have meat gi'avy, lemon- 
 juice, sirup of lemons, essence of anchovy, 
 the various vegetable essences, musluoom 
 catchup, and the whites and yolks of eggs, 
 wines, and the essence of spices. 
 
 FISH, NEW METHOD OF DRESSING. 
 
 Talie any sort of fish you tliinl^ proper, be- 
 ing very careful that it is quite fresli ; clean 
 it tlioroughiy, dry, and season it to your 
 taste; then put it (without any moisture), 
 into a pan, which may be closely covered, 
 with the exception of a small hole, to allow 
 of evaporation. Put it into an oven as soon 
 as the bread is drawn, and let it stand until 
 the whole is so completely dissolved, that 
 the bones are not perceptible. When cold, 
 this malces a very transpai'ent, well-flavored 
 jelly. 
 
 FISH CONSOMME. Take carp, tench, 
 perch, eels, pike, and odier fiesh-water fish 
 of the same kind; clean them well, and cut 
 them into pieces, as near of a size as may 
 be; lay tliem in a stewpan, on a layer of 
 sliced onions and carrots ; as soon as they 
 begin to sweat, put in a bit of butter, and 
 leave them for a quarter of an hour ; mois- 
 ten them with fish brotli, and let them boil 
 gently for an hour; keep the pan closely 
 covered ; this will afford a very nourishing 
 brotli. 
 
 FISH KETCHUP. Take rather more 
 tlian a pint of vinegar, three pints of red 
 Port, two table-spoonfuls of pepper, pound- 
 ed very fine, plenty of shallots and horse- 
 radish, the peel of half a lemon, and two or 
 three bay-leaves, and a pound of anchovies ; 
 let die whole boil together until the ancho- 
 vies are dissolved, then strain, and when 
 cold, put it into bottles. Two or three 
 spoonfuls are sufficient foi- a pouiid of 
 butter. 
 
 FISH FORCEMEAT. Take two oun- 
 ces of either turbot, sole, lobster, shrimps, 
 or oysters; free from skin, put it in a mor- 
 tar with two ounces of fresh butter, one 
 ounce of bread-crumbs, the yolk of two eggs 
 boiled hard, and a little eschalot, grated 
 lemon-peel, and parsley, minced very fine; 
 then pound it well till it is thoroughly mixed 
 and quite smooth; season it with salt and 
 Cayenne to your taste ; break in the yolk 
 and white of one egg, rub it well together, 
 and it is ready for use. Oysteis parboiled 
 and minced fine, and an anchovy, may be 
 »dded, / 
 
 FISH GRAVY. (1) Cut two or three 
 little fish of any kind into small pieces ; put 
 them into a saucepan, with rather more 
 water than will cover them, a bit of toasted 
 bread, a blade of mace, some lemon-peel, 
 whole pepper, and a bunch of sweet herbs ; 
 let it simmer gently till it is rich and good; 
 brown a little bit of butter in a stewpan, 
 and when it is browned, strain the gravy in- 
 to it, aud let it boil for a few minutes. 
 
 FISH GRAVY. (2) Put some slices 
 of onion into a stewpan, and set them on 
 the fire ; when they are completely dissolved, 
 add a piece of butter, and some small fish, 
 or pieces of carp, tench, perch, or any other 
 you find convenient. As soon as tliey begin 
 to dissolve, and give out their moisture, put 
 a glassful of root broth to them, and boil 
 tliem for half an hour ; then add a glass of 
 white wine, and a little lemon-juice, and 
 boil it another half hour, when it may be 
 pressed dirough a sieve, widi great force. 
 
 FISH RECHAUFFE. (1) After pike, 
 cod, skate, turbot, soles, or any other white 
 fish has been dressed, pick it from the bones 
 into small bits ; add to a pound of fish, or 
 in die same proportion, haljf a pint of good 
 cream, one table-spoonful of mustard, the 
 same of anchovy e&sence, the same of ketch- 
 up, and of Hai'vey sauce, a little flour, some 
 salt, pepper, and butter ; make it all hot in 
 the saucepan, then put it into the dish in 
 which it is to be served up, strew cnimbs 
 of bread over it, and baste it with butter till 
 it is a little moist, then brown it with a 
 salamander, or in a Dutch oven. A wall 
 of mashed potatoes round the dish is an im- 
 provement. 
 
 FISH RECHAUFFE. (2) Pick from 
 the bone in large flakes about two pounds 
 of cold salmon, cod fish, or soles ; melt a 
 quarter of a pound of butter in half a pint of 
 cream, with a little flour and salt; add the 
 fish and heat it thoroughly. 
 
 FISH SAUCE. See Sauces. 
 
 FLEMISH WAFERS. Put into a 
 deep pan half a pound of flour; strain and 
 mix with it half a pint of vvamicd milk, and 
 two table-spoonfuls of fresh } east ; work the 
 paste till it be si)ft and smooth, and place it 
 in a stove, or cluse to the fijc, to rise; then 
 add the beaten yolks of six eggs, half a 
 pound of fresh butter beaten to a cream, 
 and a lump of sugar which has been rubbed 
 upon the peel of a lemon, and then pounded; 
 last of all, beat in lightly the well-whisked 
 whites of the eggs ; again |)luce the pan in 
 a wai-m place, and it will rise to nearly 
 double its bulk, Heat and rub the irons. 
 
FLU 
 
 76 
 
 FOR 
 
 which should be square, with a little butter; 
 fill one side with the mixture, and close 
 them ; when one side is done turn the oth- 
 er, and when of a fine color, take out the 
 wafers; put them upon a plate, and whilst 
 hot, sift over this quantity a quarter of a 
 pound of grated loaf sugar. 
 
 FLIP. To make a quart of flip:— Put 
 the ale on the fire to warm, and beat up 
 tliree or four eggs, with four ounces of moist 
 sugar, a tea-spoonful of grated nutmeg or 
 ginger, and a quartern of good old rum or 
 brandy. When the ale nearly boils put it 
 into one pitcher, and the rum, eggs, &c. in- 
 to another ; turn it from one to another till 
 it is as smooth as cream. This is called a 
 Yard of Flannel. 
 
 FLOATING ISLAND. Boil, with a 
 pint of milk, a bit of cinnamon, and half the 
 peel of a lemon; when almost cold, strain it. 
 and mix with it the beaten white of one, and 
 the yolks of three eggs; stir it over the fire till 
 thick, pour it into a dish, and stir it now 
 and then till cold. Whisk the whites of 
 two eggs, and half a pint of Guava, quince, 
 or red currant jelly, till it be a very stiff. 
 
 FLOUNDERS BOILED. (1) Put on a 
 stewpan with a sufficient quantity of water 
 to cover the flounders which are to be dres- 
 sed ; put in some vinegar and horse-radish ; 
 when the water boils put in the fish, having 
 been fii-st well cleaned, and their fins cut off; 
 ihey mustiiot boil too fast for fear they should 
 break ; when they are sufficiently done, lay 
 them on a fish plate, the tails in tiie middle. 
 Serve them with parsley and butter. 
 
 FLOUNDERS BOILED. (2) Wash and 
 clean them well, cut the black side of them 
 the same as you do turbot, then put them in- 
 to a fish-kettle, with plenty of cold water 
 and a handful of salt ; when they come to a 
 boil, skim them clean, and let them stand 
 by the side of the fire for five minutes, and 
 they are ready. Obs. — Eaten with plain 
 melted butter and a little salt, you have the 
 sweet delicate flavor of the flounder, which 
 is over'powered by any sauce. 
 
 FLOUNDERS or PLAICE, fried or 
 BOILED. Flounders are perhaps the most 
 difficult fish to fry very nicely. Clean them 
 well, flour 'them,'and wipe them with a dry 
 cloth to absorb all the water from them; 
 flour or egg and bread-crumb tliem. 
 
 FLUMMERY. Steep three large hand- 
 fuls of very small white oatmeal a day and 
 night in cold water; then pour it off clear; 
 then add as much more water, and let it 
 stand another day and a night, Then 
 
 strain it through a fine hair sieve, and boil 
 it till it is of the consistence of hasty pud- 
 ding, keeping it well stirred all the time it 
 is boiling. When first strained, put to it 
 one laige spoonful of white sugar, and two 
 of orange-flower water. Pour it into shal- 
 low dishes, and serve to eat with wine, ci- 
 der, milk or cream, and sugar. 
 
 FLUMMERY DUTCH. Boil yeiy 
 gently for half an hour, two ounces of isin- 
 glass in three half pints of water ; add a pint 
 of white wine, the juice of three lemons and 
 the thin rind of one, and rub a few lumps 
 of sugar on another to obtain the essence, 
 and with them add as much more sugar as 
 will make it sufficiently sweet; and having 
 beaten up the yolks of seven eggs, give tliem 
 and the above, when mixed, one scald; stir 
 all the time, and pour the whole into a ba- 
 sin; stir it till it is half cold; then let it 
 settle, and put it into a melon shape. 
 
 FLUMMERY FRENCH. Beat an 
 ounce of isinglass fine, put it into a quart of 
 cream, and boil it gently for a quarter of an 
 hour, keeping it stirring all the time. Then 
 take it off, sweeten it with fine powder su- 
 gar, put in a spoonful of rose and anotlier 
 of orange-flower water, strain it through a 
 sieve, and stir it till half cold. Put it into 
 a mould or basin, and when cold, turn it in- 
 to a dish, and garnish witii currant jelly. 
 
 FONDUS. Put some grated cheese into 
 a basin, with pepper and a little melted but- 
 ter, and tlie yolks of eggs ; stir them togeth- 
 er ; whip the whites of the eggs to a firm 
 froth, and add them, a little at a time, to 
 the cheese, stirring lightly with a wooden 
 spoon ; half fill as many paper cases as you 
 can, and bake them, like biscuits, in a 
 moderate oven. Serve them as quickly as 
 possible after they are done. 
 
 FORCEMEAT STUFFING. Force- 
 meat is now considered an indispensable 
 accompaniment to most made dishes, and 
 when composed with good taste, gives ad- 
 ditional spirit and relish to even that " sove- 
 reign of savouriness," turtle soup. 
 
 It is also sent up in patties, and for stuf- 
 fing of veal, game, poultry, &c. 
 
 The ingredients should be so proportion- 
 ed, that no one flavor predominates. 
 
 To give the same stuffing for veal, hare, 
 &c. argues a poverty of invention ; with a 
 little contrivance, you may make as great 
 a variety as you have dishes. 
 
 The poignancy of forcemeat should be 
 proportioned to the savouriness of the viands, 
 to which it is intended to give an additional 
 'est. Some dishes require a very delicate- 
 ly flavored forcemeat, for others, it must 
 
FOR 
 
 77 
 
 FOW 
 
 be full and high seasoned. What would be 
 piquant e in a turkey, would be insipid witli 
 turtle. 
 
 Most people have an acquired and pecu- 
 liar taste in stuffings, &c. and what exactly 
 pleas^ one, seldom is precisely what an- 
 other considers the most agieeable. 
 
 Custom is all in matters of taste : it is not 
 that one person is natui-aliy fond of this or 
 that, and another naturally averse to it ; but 
 that one is used to it, and anodier is not. 
 
 The consistency of forcemeats is rather a 
 difficult thing to manage ; they are almost 
 always either too light or too heavy. 
 
 Take care to pound it till perfectly smooth, 
 and that all the ingredients are tlioroughly 
 incorporated. 
 
 Forcemeat-balls must not be larger tlian 
 a small nutmeg. If they are for brown 
 sauce, flour and fi*y them; if for white, put 
 them into boiling water, and boil them for 
 three minutes: the latter are by far tiie most 
 delicate. 
 
 If not of sufficient stiffiiess, it falls to 
 pieces, and makes soup, &c. grouty and 
 veiy unsightly. 
 
 Sweetbreads and tongues are the favorite 
 materials for forcemeat. Forcemeat should 
 be made sufficiently consistent to cut with a 
 knife, but not dry or heavy. No one flavor 
 should predominate greatly; according to 
 what it is wanted for, a selection may be 
 made from tlie following list, being careful 
 to use the least of those articles which are 
 the most pungent: 
 
 Cold fowl, or veal, scraped ham, fat ba- 
 con, beef suet, crumbs of bread, parsley, 
 white pepper, salt, nutmeg, yolks and whites 
 of eggs, well beaten, to bind the mixture. 
 
 The forcemeat may be made with any 
 of these articles without any striking flavor; 
 therefore any of the following dift'erent ingie- 
 dients may be made use of to vary the taste. 
 
 Oysters, anchovies, tarragon, savory, pen- 
 ny-royal, knotted-marjoram, thyme, basil, 
 yolks of hard eggs, cayenne, garlic, shallots, 
 chives, Jamaica pepper in fine powder, or 
 two or tliree cloves. 
 
 To force or stuff turkeys, geese, ducks, 
 &c., see under the heads of the different 
 ways of dressing turkeys, geese, &c. 
 
 FORCEMEAT. Take an equal quantity 
 of lean veal scraped, and beef suet shred ; 
 beat them in a marble mortar ; add pepper, 
 salt, cloves, pounded lemon-peel, and nutmeg 
 grated, parsley and sweet herbs, chopped 
 flne, a little shallot and young onion, a few 
 bread-crumbs grated fine, and yolk of egg 
 sufficient to work it light; roll this into 
 balls with a little flour; if for white sauce, 
 boil them ; if for brown sauce, 67 them. 
 
 FORCEMEAT BALLS FOR FISH 
 
 7* 
 
 Soups, or Fish stewed. Beat tlie 
 flesh and soft parts of a middling sized lob- 
 ster, half an anchovy, a large piece of boil- 
 ed celery, the yolk of a hard egg, a little 
 Cayenne, mace, salt, and white pepper, 
 wiUi two table-spoonfuls of bread-crumbs, 
 one spoonful of oyster liquor, two ounces of 
 butter warmed, two eggs beaten for a long 
 time ; make into balls, and fiy them of a 
 nice brown color in butter. 
 
 FORCEMEAT-BALLS fok Turtle, 
 Mock Turtle, or Made Dishes. 
 
 Pound some veal in a marble mortar ; rub 
 it tlirough a sieve with as much of the udder 
 as you have veal, or about a third of the 
 quantity of butter: put some bread-crumbs 
 into a stewpan, moisten them with milk, 
 add a little chopped parsley and eschalot, 
 rub them well together in a mortar tiH they 
 form a smooth paste ; put it through a sieve, 
 and, when cold, jxjund, and mix all togeth- 
 er, with the yolks of three eggs boiled hard ; 
 season it with salt, pepper, and curry pow- 
 der, or Cayenne ; add to it the yolks of two 
 raw eggs ; rub it well together, and make 
 small balls: ten minutes before your soup is 
 ready, put tliera in, 
 
 FOWLS. When a cock is young, his 
 spurs are short ; take care that you are not 
 deceived by theii- having been cut or pai-ed, 
 a trick that is often practised. If fresh 
 their vent will be close and dark. Hens 
 are best, just before they begin to lay, and 
 yet are full of egg; if diey are old, their 
 combs and legs are rough. 
 
 All poultry should be very carefully pick- 
 ed, every plug removed, and tlie hair nicely 
 singed with pajier. 
 
 The cook should be ca)eful in drawing 
 poultiy of all sorts, not to break the gall- 
 bag, for no washing will take off the bitter 
 where it has touched. 
 
 If for roasting, black-legged fowls ar« 
 the most moist. A good-sized fowl will 
 take from three-tjiiarters of an hour to an 
 hour in roasting, a middling-sized one about 
 half an hour, and a very small one, or chick- 
 en, twenty minutes. 
 
 Tame fowls require more roasting, and 
 are longer in heating through than other*. 
 All sorts should be continually basted, that 
 they may be served with a froth, and appear 
 of a fine color. The fire must be very <juick 
 and clear before any fowls are put down. 
 Serve with egg sauce, bread sauce, or gar- 
 nished with sausages or scalded parsley. 
 
 A large bai-n-door fowl, well hung, should 
 be stuffed in the crop with sausage-meat, 
 and served with gravy in tlie dish, and with 
 bread sauce. / 
 
 The head should be turned under tbt 
 wing, like a turkey. 
 
row 
 
 FO w 
 
 For boiling, choose those that are not 
 black -legged ; pick them carefully, singe, 
 wash, and tniss them. Flour tliem, and 
 put tliem in boiling water; a good-sized 
 one will be done in half an hour. 
 
 Serve with parsley and butter; oyster, 
 lemon, liver, or celery sauce. If for dinner, 
 ham, tongue, or bacon, is commonly served 
 with them. 
 
 Fowls are ti^ussed in the same manner as 
 chickens. (See Chickens). 
 
 Chickens or fowls should be killed at 
 least one or two days before they are to be 
 dressed. 
 
 Turkeys (especially large ones) should 
 not be dressed till they have been killed 
 three or four days at least, in cold weather 
 six or eight, or they will neither look white 
 nor eat tender. 
 
 Turkeys, and large fowls, should have 
 the strings or sinews of die thighs drawn 
 out. 
 
 Truss them with the legs outward, they 
 are much easier carved. 
 
 FOWL A LA HOLANDAISE. Make 
 a forcemeat of grated bread, half its quantity 
 of minced suet, an onion, or a few oysters, 
 and some boiled parsley, season with pepper, 
 salt, and grated lemon-peel, and an egg 
 beaten up to bind it. Bone the breast of a 
 good-sized young fowl, put in the forcemeat, 
 cover the fowl with a piece of white paper 
 buttered, and roast it rather more tlian half 
 an hour ; have ready a thick batter made of 
 flour, milk, and eggs, take off the paper, and 
 pour some of the batter over the fowl; as 
 soon as it becomes dry add moj-e, and do 
 this till it is all crusted over, and of a nice 
 brown color ; serve it with melted butter and 
 lemon pickle, or a thickened brown gi'avy. 
 
 FOWL BOILED WITH RICE. Stew 
 a fowl in some well-skimmed clear mutton 
 broth, and seasoned with onion, mace, pep- 
 per, and salt. About half an hour before it 
 is ready, put in a quarter of a pint of rice 
 well washed and soaked. Simmer till ten- 
 der; then strain it from the broth, and put 
 the rice on a sieve before the fu'e. Keep the 
 fowl hot, lay it in the middle of a dish, and 
 the rice round it without the broth. The 
 less liquor the fowl is done witli, the better. 
 Serve with gravy, or parsley and butter for 
 sauce. 
 
 FOWL BROILED. Split them down 
 tlie back, well salt and pepper them ; dien 
 broil them. Serve with mushroom sauce. 
 
 FOWL CAPILOTADE. Take the re- 
 mains of a ready dressed fowl, and put 
 them into a stewpan; then do up some 
 parsley, shallots, and four mushrooms, all 
 
 shred small, in a little butter; as soon as the 
 latter becomes liquid, add four ladlefuls of 
 espagnole, and two of consomme, reduce, 
 and skim it ; pour it on your fowl, set it on 
 the fire to simmer for a quarter of an hour, 
 before you send it to table. , 
 
 FOWL CURRY. See Curry. 
 
 FOWLS DRESSED TO DRESS 
 
 AGAIN. Cut them in quarters, beat up an 
 eg^ or two (according to the quantity yon 
 dress) with a little grated nutmeg, and pep- 
 per and salt, some parsley minced fine, and 
 a kw crumbs of bread; mix diese well to- 
 gether, and cover the fowl, &c. with this 
 batter; broil them, or put them in a Dutch 
 oven, or have ready some dripping hot in a 
 pan, in which fiy them a light brown color; 
 thicken a little gravy with some flour, put 
 a large spoonful of catchup to it, lay the 
 ft-y in a dish, and pour the sauce round it. 
 You may garnish with slices of lemon and 
 toasted bread. 
 
 ICF' Turkey, Goose, Duck, Rabbit, 
 Pigeon, are all dressed same way. 
 
 FOWL, GAINfE, OR RABBIT hash- 
 ED. Cut them into joints, put the trim- 
 mings into a stewpan with a quart of 
 the broth they were boiled in, and a large 
 onion cut in four; let it boil half an hour; 
 strain it through a sieve; then put two table- 
 sjKionfuls of flour in a basin, and mix it 
 well by degrees with the hot broth; set it 
 on the fire to boil up, then strain it through a 
 fine sieve: wash out the stewpan, lay the poul- 
 tiy in it, and poui' the gravy on it (through 
 a sieve); set it by the side of the fire to 
 simmer very gently (it must not Iwil) for 
 fifteen minutes; five minutes before you 
 serve it up, cut the stuffing in slices, and 
 put it in to warm, then take it out, and lay 
 it round the edge of the dish, and put the 
 poultry in the middle; carefully skim the 
 fat off the gravy, then shake it roinid well 
 in the stewpan, and pour it to the hash. 
 N. B. — You may garnish the dish with bread 
 sippets lightly toasted. 
 
 FOWL HASHED. Cut a cold roasted 
 fowl into pieces as for a fricassee, put the 
 trimmings into a saucepan with two or three 
 shallots, a little lemon-peel, a blade of mace, 
 a quarter of a pound of lean ham, and a pint 
 of stock ; simmer it for half an hour, strain 
 it, put a bit of butter into a saucepan, and 
 whea melted, dredge in as much flour as will 
 di-y it up, stirring it all the time; dien add 
 the gravy, let it boil a minute, and put in the 
 fowl, also a little popper, salt, and a dust of 
 sugar. Before serving, squeeze in a little 
 lemon-juice. 
 
FOW 
 
 79 
 
 PRA 
 
 FOWL MINCED WITH VEAL. 
 
 Mince the white part of a cold roasted or 
 boiled fowl; put it, and some thin slices of 
 veal, into a saucepan, also some white stock, 
 a squeeze of a lemon, a few dr6ps of shallot 
 vine^r, and a dust of sugar; simmer it for 
 a short time, and serve it upon bread sippets, 
 with the slices of veal laid on the mince. 
 
 FOWL PULLED. Skin a cold chick- 
 en, fowl, or turkey; take off the fillets from 
 the breasts, and put them into a stewpan 
 with the rest of the white meat and wings, 
 side-bones, and merry-thought, with a pint 
 of broth, a large blade of mace pounded, an 
 eschalot minced fine, the juice of half a lem- 
 on, and a roll of die peel, some salt, and a 
 few grains of cayenne; thicken it with flour 
 and butter, and let it simmer for two or 
 three minutes, till the meat is warm. In the 
 meantime score the eggs and rump, powder 
 Uiem witli pepper and salt, broil them nicely 
 brown, and lay them on, or round your pulled 
 chicken. Three table-spoonfuls of good 
 cream, or the yolks of as many eggs, will be 
 a great improvement to it. 
 
 FOWL OR RABBIT. We can only 
 recormnend this method of dressing when the 
 fire is not good enough for roasting. Pick 
 and truss it the same as for boiling, cut it 
 0|ien down tlie back, wipe the inside clean 
 with a cloth, season it with a little pepper 
 and salt, have a clear fire, and set the grid- 
 iron at a good distance over it, lay the 
 chicken on with the inside towards the fire 
 (you may egg it and strew some grated 
 bread over it), and broil it till it is a fine 
 brown: take care the fleshy side is not burn- 
 ed. Lay it on a hot dish; pickled mush- 
 rooms, or mushroom sauce thrown over it, 
 or parsley and butter, or melted butter fla- 
 vored with mushroom ketchup. Garnish it 
 widi slices of lemon; and the liver and giz- 
 zard slit and notched, seasoned with pepper 
 and salt, and broiled nicely brown, with 
 0ome slices of lemon. 
 
 FOWLS WITH RICE, CALLED 
 PiLLACE. Roil a pint of rice in as much 
 water as will cover it, with black pepper, a 
 few blades of mace, and half a dozen cloves, 
 tied up in a bit of cloth ; when the rice is 
 tender, take out the spice; stir in a piece 
 of butter; boil a fowl and a piece of bacon; 
 lay them in the dish, covei- them witli the 
 rice: lay round die dish, and upon tlie rice, 
 hard eggs, cut in halves, quarters, and 
 lengthways, with onions, first boiled, and 
 then fried. 
 
 FOWLS ROASTED. Well pepper 
 and salt the fowls before you spit them; 
 roast them before a clear fii e ; fioth them 
 
 up when nearly done, by sprinkling them 
 over witli flour and salt, and basting thera 
 with butter. When done, be careful in tak- 
 ing out the skewers. Serve them with very 
 good clear gravy in the dish, and bread ot 
 egg sauce in a boat. 
 
 FOWL ROASTED WITH CHEST- 
 
 NUTS. Roast some chestnuts vei-y care- 
 fully, so that they may not be burnt, then 
 take off the skins, and peel them. Take 
 about a dozen of them, cut them small, and 
 bruise them in a mortar. Parboil die liver 
 of a fowl ; bruise it, and cut about a quarter 
 of a pound of ham or bacon, and pound it. 
 Then mix them all together, witli a good 
 quantity of chopped parsley, sweet herbs, 
 some mace, pepper, salt, and nutmeg. When 
 these are are all well mixed together, put it 
 into your fowl, and roast it. The best wav 
 of doing this is to tie the neck, and hang it 
 up by the legs to roast, with a string, and 
 then baste it with butter. For sauce, take 
 the rest of the chestnuts, peel and skin them, 
 put them into some good gi"avy, v\'ith a little 
 white wine; and thicken it wiUi a piece of 
 butter rolled in flour. Then place your fowl 
 in the dish; pour in the sauce; garnish with 
 lemon, and serve. 
 
 FOWL WITH ITS OWN GRAVY. 
 
 Truss a fowl the same as for boiling, lard it 
 quite through with bacon, ham, and pars- 
 ley ; put it in a pan with a little butter, two 
 or three slices of peeled lemon, a bundle of 
 sweet herbs, three cloves, sliced onions, 
 carrots, pepper, salt, a little stock, and a 
 glass of white wine ; stew them gently till 
 they are done ; skim and strain tiie sauce^ 
 and serve it with the fowl. 
 
 FOWL, WILD. The flavor of wild 
 fowl is preserved better by not stuffing them ; 
 put into each, pepper, salt, and a bit of but- 
 ter. Wild fowl do not require so much 
 dressing as tame ; they should be done of a 
 fine color, and nicely frodied. A rich brown 
 gravy should be served in the dish, and when 
 the breast is cut into slices, liefore it is taken 
 from the bone, it will be much improved by 
 a squeeze of lemon, some salt and pepper. 
 If you wish to take oft" the fishy smell which 
 these birds frequently have, put an onion, 
 salt, and hot water into the dripping pan, 
 and for the first ten minutes baste diem with 
 this ; then remove the pan, and keep con- 
 stantly basting widi batter. 
 
 FRAISE. See Calfs Chitterlings. 
 
 FRANGIPANE. Take a saucepan, and 
 put into if five spoonfuls of flour, five eggs, a 
 pint of milk, an ounce of butter and a little 
 salt; sot it on tlie fire, stirring constantly 
 
FRE 
 
 80 
 
 FRl 
 
 until it has boiled ten minutes, taking great 
 care that it does not burn ; then pour it into 
 a basin, and let it cool. Take a few al- 
 monds, (to eveiy six sweet put one bitter), 
 bruise them, and some macaroons, and wlien 
 reduced to powder, mix them with a little 
 cris|)ed orange-flour (also in powder), and a 
 sufficient quantity of powder-sugar to sweeten 
 it: add tliese to the above preparation, and 
 stir them in well with a wooden spoon. If 
 your frungipane Ije too thick, add anotljer 
 egg or two, and then make whatever use of 
 it you may desire. You may, if you think 
 proper, sul>stitute pistachios for die sweet 
 almonds, in which case a little spinach es- 
 sence must be added to color it, die maca- 
 roons and orange-flowers omitted, and tliree 
 bitter almonds only used. 
 
 FRENCH BEANS. Cut off the stalk 
 end first, and then turn to the point and 
 sti-ip off the strings. If not quite fresh, have 
 a bowl of spring-water, with a little salt 
 dissolved in it, standing before yon, and as 
 the beans are cleaned and stringed, tlirow 
 them in. When all are done, put them on 
 die fire in boiling water, with some salt in 
 it; after they have boiled fifteen or twenty 
 minutes, take one out and taste it; as soon 
 as they are tender take them up; throw 
 tliem into a colander oi* sieve to drain. To 
 send up the beans whole is much the best 
 meUiod when diey are thus young, and their 
 delicate flavor and color are much better 
 pj-eserved. When a little more grown, they 
 must be cut across in two after stringing; 
 and for common tables they are split, and 
 divided across ; cut them all the same length ; 
 but those who ai'e nice never have them at 
 such a growth as to recjuire splitting. When 
 they are vei'y large they look pretty cut into 
 lozenges. 
 
 FRENCH BEANS, NASTURTIUMS, 
 
 &c. When young, and most otlier small 
 green vegetables, may be pickled the same 
 way as gherkins. 
 
 FRENCH BEANS FOR WINTER 
 
 USE. Gather them when young, and on a 
 dry day, put a layer of salt into a jar, and 
 dien one of about two inches thick of beans ; 
 do this till the jar be nearly full ; place a 
 small plate upon the top of them, and tie a 
 bladder closely over the jar; keep it in a 
 cool dry place. When to be used, soak 
 them a night in cold water, and change it 
 on them repeatedly in the course of the day 
 they are to be dressed. Cut them, and put 
 them on in boiling water. 
 
 FRENCH BEANS TO DRESS 
 DRIED. Boil for more dian two hours, in 
 two quarts of water, a pound of die seeds or 
 
 beans of scarlet runners; fill a pint basin 
 with onions peeled or sliced, brown them in 
 a saucepan, vvidi rather more than a quar- 
 ter of a pound of fresh butter ; stir them con- 
 stantly; strain the water from the beans, 
 and mix them wiUi the onions; add a tea- 
 spoonful of pepper, some salt, and a little 
 gravy. Let diem stew for ten minutes, and 
 stir in tiie Ix^aten yolks of two eggs, and a 
 table-spoonful of vinegai'. Serve them hot. 
 
 FRENCH SUPPER DISH. Pare off 
 the crust, and cut one or two slices of bread 
 into bits of two or three inches square ; fry 
 them in butter; put them upon a hot dish, 
 and lay upon each bit some warmed preserve, 
 or stew for a few minutes, in sweet wine 
 and a little sugar, some stoned bloom raisins, 
 and put them upon and round the toast. 
 The preserves may be heated by placing tlie 
 jars in hot water by the side of die fire. 
 
 FRIARS' CHICKEN. Put four pounds 
 of a knuckle of veal into four quarts of wa- 
 ter ; boil it gently for two hours ; strain it 
 off; cut three chickens, or two young fowls 
 into joints ; skin them, and when the broth 
 boils put them in : season with white pepper 
 and salt; let them boil a short time, and 
 add a handful of parsley chopped small; 
 when the chickens are boiled tender, have 
 ready six or seven well-beaten eggs; stir 
 them (jnickly into the brodi one way, imme- 
 diately Ixjfore taking it off die fire. This 
 broth may be made entirely of veal instead 
 of chickens. 
 
 FRICANDELLANS. Mince about two 
 pounds of tender lean beef, and diree-quar- 
 ters of a pound of fresh suet, then pound it 
 till it \)e as smooth as a paste, and carefully 
 pick out all the threads and sinews ; add four 
 well-beaten eggs, half a pint of rich cream, 
 and as much grated and sifted bread as will 
 make it sulHciently consistent to form into 
 rolls resembling corks, and season it with 
 salt, and pepper. Boil the corks in some 
 good stock, or in boiling water. 
 
 FRICASSEE BROWN. Take two or 
 three young rabbits, cut them in pieces, and 
 slew them in gravy made of beef, some whole 
 pepper, two shallots, one or two anchovies, 
 a bit of horse-radish, and a little sweet mar- 
 joram powdered small. Stew the rabbits 
 about a quarter of an hour, then take them 
 out of the gravy, strain the liquor, fry your 
 rabbits in lard or butter; add a glass of 
 claret; you may fry some forcemeat balls, 
 made with the livers of the rabbits parboiled, 
 and a little parsley shred small, some nutmeg 
 giated, pepper, salt, a few bread ciumbs, 
 and two buttered eggs; mix these all to 
 gether, make them up into balls, dip them 
 
FRI 
 
 81 
 
 FRI 
 
 In the yolk of egg, roll them in flour, 
 then fiy tlietn, and garnish your dish with 
 them, with fried parsley, and sliced lemon. 
 
 FRICASSEE WHITE. Cut a couple 
 of rabbits into pieces, and let them soak in 
 warm water to cleanse them from the blood ; 
 then lay them in a cloth to dry; put them 
 into a stewpan with milk and water, and let 
 them stew till they are tender, and then take 
 a clean pan, and put into it half a pint of 
 cream, and a quarter of a pound of butter; 
 Btir them well together till the butter is melt- 
 ed ; be careful to keep it constantly stirring, 
 or it will be greasy ; put in the rabbits, take 
 a little dried mace, a little pounded nutmeg, 
 and a few mushrooms ; shake tliem together 
 for a few minutes, and then put it to the 
 mbbits. You may add white wine if you 
 choose. 
 
 FRIED TOASTS. Cut the crumb of 
 a twopenny loaf into round or oblong pieces, 
 nearly an inch tliick, and soak them for four 
 or five hours in a pint of cream, mixed with 
 three well-beaten eggs, half a pint of white 
 wine, a little grated nutmeg, and sweetened 
 witli pounded loaf sugar. Fry them in but- 
 ter, till of a light brown color, and serve 
 with wine and sugar sauce. 
 
 FRITTERS. (1) Make them of any of 
 the batters directed for pancakes, by dropping 
 a small quantity into the pan, or make the 
 plainer sort, and put pared apples sliced and 
 cored in the batter, and fiy some of it with 
 each slice. Currants or sliced lemon, as 
 thin as possible, are very nice. 
 
 FRITTERS. (2) Fritters should be sent 
 to table served upon a folded napkin in the 
 dish. Any sort of sweetmeat, or ripe fruit, 
 may be made into fritters. 
 
 FRITTERS, ENGLISH-AND- 
 FRENCH. Take a marrow pudding, and 
 when nearly cold, cut it into thin slices, and 
 then cut them again into pieces two inches 
 long, by three-quarters of an inch wide, dip 
 them into batter, and fry them in the usual 
 manner ; when drained, glaze tliem with fine 
 sugar, and serve them very hot. The batter 
 for the above fritters is made as follows : — 
 Put a glass and a half of water, a grain of 
 salt, and two ounces of fresh butter into a 
 saucepan ; when it boils stir in a sufficient 
 quantity of flour to make it a ratlier firm 
 batter, keep it stirring three minutes, then 
 pour it into another vessel. 
 
 FRITTERS A LA DAUPHINE. 
 Take a pound of bHoche paste, and roll it 
 out as thin as possible, to the form of a long 
 square ; on part of this lay small quantities 
 
 of apricot marmalade at internals, slightly 
 wet the paste round each piece of preserve, 
 and lay over the plain part of the paste so as 
 to cover the other completely, press it down 
 lightly that the marmalade may not escape 
 in tlie cooking, and cut out your fi-itters 
 with a circular paste-cutter of two inches in 
 diameter; flour them a little, and then lay 
 them in rather a hot friture, when the paste 
 will swell them into little balls ; as soon as 
 they are of a proper color take them out, 
 drain them on a napkin, sprinkle them with 
 fine sugai-, and serve them. 
 
 FRITTERS A LA COTE. Soak in 
 brandy some leaves and the young and ten- 
 der shoots of the vine, dip them in a batter 
 made of milk, yolks of eggs, and flour, fiy 
 them in boiling oil, sprinkle them with su- 
 gar. Elder flowers are made into fi-itters in 
 the same manner. 
 
 FRITTERS AU BLANC. Mix to^ 
 
 gether a handful of rice-flour and some milk,, 
 set them on the fire, stirring cxinstantly, add 
 a little ci'eam, sugar, lemon-peel, and orange- 
 flowers; when it has become of a proper 
 consistence, take it from the fire ; as soon 
 as it is cold, roll it into balls about the size 
 of a nut, dip them in batter and fi-y diem. 
 
 FRITTERS BLONDIN. Put some 
 butter into a saucepan, and when it is melt- 
 ed add to it a glass of milk, and a pinch of 
 salt, keep it on the fire till it boils ; then 
 mix in a sufficient quantity of flour to make 
 it into a consistent paste, which will not 
 stick to the fingers; spread it on a table, 
 roll it out to tlie thickness you may require, 
 cut it in round, oval, or any odier formed 
 pieces you may diink proper, and fiy them of 
 a nice color, in the best oil; sprirJtle sugar 
 over, and serve tiiem. 
 
 FRITTERS, FRENCH, OF BRAN- 
 DY FRUITS. Take a dozen apricots 
 (or other fruits) presei-ved in brandy, drain, 
 and cut them in half: then wrap them in wa- 
 fers cut round and previously moistened, dip 
 them in the same kind of batter as that used 
 for fritters EngHsh-and- French, and fiy 
 them ; sprinkle tliem with sugar, and sei-ve. 
 
 FRITTERS EN SURPRISE. Take 
 eight middling-sized apples, pare, and leave 
 on the stalks ; cut oft' about a fourtli part of 
 the stalk end of each apple, and scoop out 
 the inside of each piece, so as to foi-m a sort of 
 cup with a lid ; put them to soak for two hours 
 in a glass of brandy with a little lemon-peel 
 and cinnamon ; at the end of that time take 
 them out, drain, and fill each apple with 
 apricot marmalade, or frangipaue ; mix up 
 a little floiu- and white of egg to cement thft 
 
FRO 
 
 82 
 
 FRU 
 
 tops of the apples to the other parts; dip 
 them in batter and (vy tliem. When they 
 are of a proper color, glaze and serve them. 
 
 FRITTERS MIGNON. Put two good 
 spoonfuls of flour into a stewpan, and mix 
 it with the whites and yolks of two eggs, a 
 little salt, two ounces of sugar, some lemon- 
 jxjel grated, half a tea-spoonful of milk, and 
 half a tea-spoonful of cream ; stir it over a 
 slow fire, and, when done and well thicken- 
 ed, spread tlie cream upon a floured dish, 
 shalve flour over it, and, when cold, cut it 
 into bits with a paste-cutter, dip each bit 
 into a paste made vvitli two spoonfuls of 
 flour, a spoonful of brandy, and a little salt, 
 mixed with two eggs ; fry the fritters, and 
 serve, glazed with sugar and a salamander. 
 
 FRITTERS, ROYAL. Put a quart of 
 new milk into a saucepan, and as soon as it 
 begins to boil, pour in a pint of v liite wine ; 
 then take it off', and let it stand five or six 
 minutes, skim off the curd, and put it into a 
 basin; beat it up well with six eggs, and 
 season it with nutmeg; then Ixjat it with a 
 whisk, and add flour sufficient to give it the 
 proper consistence of batter. Put in some 
 sugar and fry them quick. 
 
 FRITTERS, SOUFFLES. Make 
 some flour and teer into a batte-i" that will 
 flow a little; lake a little of it out with a 
 spoon, throw it into a frying-pan w ith boil- 
 ing oil; the moment it rises, take it out, 
 and proceed in tlie same way till all the bat- 
 ter is used; then sprinkle them with salt, 
 and serve. 
 
 FROMAGE CUIT. Cut half a pound 
 of Cheshire cheese into thin bits, and pound 
 it in a mortar; add by degrees tlie well- 
 beaten yolks of two, and the white of one 
 egg, and half a pint of cream ; mix it well 
 together and bake it for ten or fifteen min- 
 utes. 
 
 FROST OR ICING FOR CAKES. 
 Beat till very light the whites of four eggs, 
 and add gradually three-quarters of a jjound 
 of double-refined sugar, pounded and sifted 
 through a lawn sieve; mix in the juice of 
 half a lemon; teat it till vei-y light and 
 white; place the cake before the fire, pour 
 over it the icing, and smooth over the top 
 and sides with tlie back of a spoon. 
 
 FROTH TO PUT ON Cream, Cus- 
 tard, OR Trifle. Sweeten half a pound 
 of the pulp of damsons, or any other sort of 
 Bcalded fi-uit; put to it the whites of four 
 eggs beaten, and beat die pulp with them 
 till it will stand as high as you wish, and 
 being put on the cream, &c, will) a spoon, 
 
 it will take any form j it should be rough, 
 to imitate a rock. 
 
 FRUIT, CANDIED. (1) It must first be 
 preserved, tlien dipped in warm water, dried 
 with a cloth, and strewed all over with sift- 
 ed sugar, and dried in a stove or oven, tura- 
 ing as occasion requires. 
 
 FRUIT, CANDIED. (2) When the 
 fruit is preserved, dry it in a stove till the 
 sirup is quite out, dip it into sirup boiled to 
 candy height, and diy it again. All di'ied 
 and candied fruit must lie kept in a very 
 di"y place. 
 
 FRUIT IN JELLY. Have in readiness 
 a plain mould, eitlier long or round, about 
 three inches deep; then have ready some 
 mould jelly, and spread it at the bottom 
 of the mould, about a (juarter of an inch 
 thick ; let it be cold ; then put in ripe peach- 
 es, grapes, or any sort of ripe fruit you 
 please, preserved fruit, or China oranges 
 cut into quaiters, or whatever sha|)e you 
 choose ; put in a little warm jelly, and let it 
 stand till it is cold, to fasten the fruit in its 
 place, otherwise it will rise up; then fill the 
 mould up with warm jelly, let it stand till it 
 is quite cold, then turn it into a dish, and 
 garnish it according to your own taste. 
 
 FRUIT, PRESERVED, REMARKS 
 
 ON USING. Preserved fruits should not be 
 baked long ; those that have been preserved 
 witli their full proportion of sugar, require 
 no baking; the ciiist should be baked in a 
 tin shape, and die fruit be afterwards added ; 
 or it may be put into a small dish or tart- 
 pans, and the covers be baked on a tin cut 
 out according to your taste. 
 
 FRUIT, TO PREPARE FOR BrANDY. 
 
 Take the proposed quantity of fruit, gather- 
 ed before they are perfectly ripe ; dry them 
 carefully, prick and put them into cold water ; 
 when all in, set the vessel over a moderate 
 fire, keeping the water, however, constantly 
 nearly boiling, until the fruit will give to the 
 touch; then throw them, with great cai*e, 
 into cold water again ; drain away this wa- 
 ter, and add fiesh ; cluuige the water twice 
 more within a quarter of an hour, after 
 which, drain them for the last time, and put 
 them in bottles ; if any of die fruit is the 
 least broken or bniised, it must be put iiside, 
 as it would spoil tlie rest. In tlie mean- 
 while, take a proper quantity of sugar (as a 
 pound and a half for twenty-five peaches) ; 
 clarify and boil it to la nappe; measure, 
 and put double its quantity of good brandy; 
 mix and pour them into a glazed pan; let 
 them stand awhile, and then poiu- tlie raix- 
 tui-e on the fniit. 
 
GAM 
 
 83 
 
 GAM 
 
 FRUIT TO PREPARE FOR CHIL- 
 DREN. Put ap[)les sliced, or plums, cur- 
 rants, gooseberries, &c. into a stone jar, and 
 sprinkle as much Lisbon sugar as necessary 
 among them ; place the jar on a hot hearth, 
 or in a saucepan of water, and let it remain 
 till the fruit is perfectly done. Slices of 
 bread or rice may be stewed with the fruit, 
 or the fruit may be eaten with slices of dry 
 bread, or with rice, plain boiled. 
 
 G. 
 
 GAME. In choosing venison, the fat of 
 that which is good is thick, clear, and bright ; 
 the clift part smooth and close. When the 
 venison is perfectly fresh, it is hung in a cool 
 place, and carefully wif)ed dry every day. 
 When extreme tenderness is required from 
 long keeping, but widiout its having a high 
 flavor, it is well rubbed over with powdered 
 charcoal. 
 
 The haunch is the prime joint, and when 
 it is required to be roasted, it is first well 
 washed in lukewarm milk-and-water, and 
 then made quite dry before it is spitted. It 
 is then covered with a sheet of well-buttered 
 white paper, over which is laid a coarse 
 paste of llour-and-water, about a quarter of 
 an inch thick; this is again covered with 
 buttered white papei", and tied on with pack- 
 thread. A substantial fire being made, tlie 
 haunch is put down, and constantly basted 
 with fresh beef dripping, till nearly done, 
 when the paste is taken off, the meat well 
 basted with butter, and lightly dredged with 
 flour, till it froths and becomes of a fine light 
 brown color. It is ser^-ed with its own gra- 
 vy in the dish, if there be enough of it ; also 
 a sauce tureen of good brown gravy, and 
 one of currant jelly sauce beat up, and melt- 
 ed with a little Port wine and sugar. 
 
 A large haunch takes about four hours to 
 roast. 
 
 A neck and shoulder, when roasted, is 
 managed in die same way as the haunch, 
 omitting the paste; but it is more frequently 
 used for soups, pasties, and collops. 
 
 Hare. — When fresh, the body is stiff; 
 and if young, the claws are smooth and 
 sharp, the ears tender and easily torn. 
 Hares are kept from a week to a fortnight 
 for roasting ; but for soup, they cannot have 
 been too recently killed. 
 
 Rabbits are chosen by the same rules as 
 hares. 
 
 Wild fowl, in general, is chosen by the 
 same niles as tame poultry. The birds 
 should be plump and fat, and hard in the 
 vent. If the skin comes off when rubl)ed 
 hard with the finger, they are stale. Old 
 birds improve by keeping for sometime; 
 
 young birds are best if dressed soon; and 
 small birds, of all descriptions, should be 
 immediately di-es.'sed. In warm weather, a 
 stopper of charcoal should be put into the 
 vent of all game, and a string tied tightly 
 round the neck. 
 
 To roast pheasants and partridges, they 
 are picked, cleaned, and nicely singed; a 
 slit is made in the back part of the neck, and 
 the craw taken out, leaving on the head, the 
 feet twisted closely to the lx)dy, the claws 
 cut off, and the head turned under the wing. 
 Both sorts are roasted by the directions for 
 roasting a turkey or a fowl. A pheasant is 
 served with gravy in the dish ; partridges 
 with a gravy, or laid upon buttered toast, 
 and melted butter poured round them. Bread 
 sauce is served with both. A pheasant will 
 require nearly an hour to roast ; partridges 
 half an hour. Guinea and pea-fowl are 
 roasted in the same way as pheasants. 
 
 To roast black-cock, follow the directions 
 for roasting pheasants and partridges; it 
 will require an hour, and is served with gra- 
 vy in the dish, and bread sauce in a sauce 
 tureen. 
 
 Moorfowl are roasted in the same manner, 
 and require three-quarters of an hour. They 
 may be sei"ved upon buttered toast, or with 
 gravy in the dish, and bread sauce in a sauce 
 tureen. 
 
 To restore tainted game or poultry, pick 
 it carefully, clean, and wash it, then put into 
 each bird a little newly-made pounded char- 
 coal, tied in a bit of muslin. Before serving, 
 take out the bag, which will have a most 
 offensive smell, while the bird will be left 
 perfectly sweet. 
 
 To roast wild duck. — It should be roasted 
 by a quick fire, well basted with butter, and 
 browned. It will refjuire nearly three-quar- 
 ters of an hour, and when to be served, some 
 beef gra\y is poured through the duck into 
 the dish, and in a pau(!e tureen some hot 
 Port wine is served. The carver makes 
 four cuts along the breast, it is then sprin- 
 kled with salt and a little Cayenne, the juice 
 of half a lemon is s(iueezed over it, and the 
 Port wine is then poured all over. 
 
 To roast a w ild goose, the same directions 
 are followed as lor wild duck, allowing 
 more time to roast it, accoi'ding to tlie size 
 of the bird. 
 
 Widgeons and teal are dressed in the 
 same manner as the wild duck, and are 
 roasted in ten minutes, and may be served 
 upon fried bread crumbs. 
 
 Woodcocks and snipes are roasted with- 
 out being drawn ; a piece of toasted bread 
 buttered is put under each bird, to catch the 
 trail; they are well basted with butter, and 
 served upon the hot toast over which they 
 were roasted ; a rich brown gravy, or melt- 
 ed butter, is poured round tliem. Wood- 
 
GAM 
 
 84 
 
 GAT 
 
 cocks will require half an hour, sni|)es and 
 quails fifteen or twenty minutes to roast. 
 
 Ortolans and green plovers are not drawn, 
 and are roasted and served in tlie same 
 manner as woodcocks. 
 
 To roast larks, wheatears, and other 
 small birds, tliey are nicely picked, gutted, 
 cleaned, and trussed; brushed over with 
 melted butter, and rolled in grated bead, 
 then spitted on a bird spit, which is fastened 
 upon a larger one. They are basted with 
 witter, and sprinkled with some bread 
 cnimbs. They will require nearly fifteen 
 minutes to roast, and are served upon fiied 
 bread crumbs, and brown gravy in a sauce 
 tureen. 
 
 Wild pigeons may be roasted, or made 
 into a pie. 
 
 Plovers' eggs are boiled hard, and served 
 in a napkin, or with green moss put round 
 each in the dish. 
 
 GAME, ESSENCE OF. Take four 
 rabbits, four partridges, two pounds of veal, 
 two pounds of steaks; put tliem into a 
 stevvpan, with a bottle of white wine; boil 
 them until the whole is entirely reduced to 
 a jelly ; then add to it broth, and consomme, 
 (e<^ual quantities of each), eight carrots, ten 
 onions, three cloves, a little tliyme and ba- 
 sil ; let the whole boil very gently, until the 
 meat is quite done ; then strain it through a 
 napkin. No salt need be put into it, as the 
 brotli and consomme are sufficiently seaaon- 
 ed to flavor the essence of game. 
 
 GAME FRITTERS. Take any of 
 tliose parts of cold roasted game, which can 
 be cut into thin slices, dip them into gofxl 
 batter, and fry them in olive' oil, or lard. 
 Sprinkle the fritters when done, witli salt 
 and spices, pounded very fine. 
 
 GAME HASHED. See Fowl. 
 
 GARLIC BUTTER SAUCE. Pound 
 half a dozen cloves of garlic; rub them 
 through a silk sieve, with a wooden spoon ; 
 put this into a mortar with some butter, and 
 beat it until thoroughly incorporated; then 
 put this butter into any sauce you please. 
 
 GARLIC, ESSENCE OF. Take an 
 earthen skillet, place it on the fire, and put 
 into it a bottle of white wine, half a glass of 
 vinegar, the juice of two lemons, six cloves 
 of garlic, the same number of cloves, the 
 quarter of a nutmeg, and two bay -leaves: 
 when near lx)iling, reduce the fire, and let it 
 stand on hot ashes for seven or eight hours ; 
 strain it through a coarse sieve, and then 
 filter it. Keep it in very closely corked 
 bottles. A veiy small quantity of this es- 
 sence is retjuisite to impart its flavor to a dish. 
 
 GARLIC GRAVY. Slice a pound and 
 a half of veal, or Ijeef ; season it with pep- 
 per and salt; put it into a stewpan, with 
 two carrots split, and four cloves of garlic 
 sliced, a quarter of a pound of sliced ham, 
 and a large spoonful of water ; put the stew- 
 pan over a gentle fire, and watch when the 
 meat begins to stick to the pan ; when it 
 does, turn it, and let it lie very well browned, 
 (but take care that it is not in the least 
 burnt) ; then dredge it with flour, and pour 
 in a quart of broth, a bunch of sweet herbs, 
 a couple of cloves bruised, and slice in a 
 lemon ; set it on the fire again, then let it 
 simmer gently for an hour and a half longer; 
 dien skim oft" die fat, and strain oflfthe gra- 
 vy, by pouring it through a napkin, strain- 
 ing and pressing it very hard. 
 
 GATEAU DE COMPIEGNE. Take 
 
 three pounds of flour, two pounds of butter, 
 an ounce and four drachms of yeast, an 
 ounce of salt, a quarter of a pound of sugar, 
 a glass of cream, twelve yolks and twelve 
 whole eggs, and five or six spoonfuls of 
 whipped cream. 
 
 With tliese ingredients proceed as follows: 
 sift the flour, of which ]m{ a fourth part on 
 the slab, make a hole in the middle, put into 
 it a glass of warm water and the yeast; mix 
 them togetlier as lightly, and with as much 
 despatch as possible, adding more warm 
 water if necessary ; when well worked up 
 for some minutes, gather it together, (it 
 ought to leave the slab and die hand freely) , 
 put it into a saucepan ; cover it, and place 
 it in a tolerably warm situation to rise. 
 Take the rest of the flour, lay it on tlie slab 
 make a hole in the middle of it, in which 
 put the salt, sugar, and cream ; stir tliese 
 together well, and then put in the eggs, one 
 at a time, (break them into a basin, in case 
 all should not lie good) ; the eggs being put 
 in, add by degrees the butter, stirring Uiem 
 well ; then mix the flour, a little at a time, 
 with the above, until the whole is formed 
 into a smooth paste; more eggs must be 
 added if it lie too stiff; work it up a little, 
 and then add the leaven ; woik that in ; and 
 lastly, put in the whipped cieam. The 
 whole operation being tinis peifurmed, have 
 ready a cylindrical fluted mould, (about 
 eight inches in diameter, and nine in height) ; 
 butter it by means of a sfionge, being care- 
 ful that it is done in all parts, otherwise the 
 gateau will adhere to it; place the mould 
 in a moderately warm place, liut where 
 diere is a free current of air. When the ga- 
 teau has risen so as to fill the mould, and 
 the surface is a little inflated, it should be 
 put into die oven instantly, if not, it ialls and 
 becomes heavy. The oven must be of a 
 moderate heat,, and kept closed while the 
 gateau is baking ; take it out in about an 
 
GHE 
 
 GIN 
 
 hour, and if it be flexible and light colored, 
 replace it for thirty or forty minutes; but 
 if, on the contrary, it is red, and firm to the 
 touch, place a tin plate on die top, and put 
 it in the oven till done ; remove the mould 
 with care, and the gateau is finished. If 
 the mould does not come away quite so well 
 as it ought, strike it gently with a spatula. 
 When taken out, put it in the oven for a few 
 minutes to dry. 
 
 This gateau is sometimes varied by the 
 addition of six ounces of sugared anise, and 
 the same quantity of dry currants. 
 
 GATEAU DE POMMES. Boil in a 
 pint of water one pound and a half of loaf 
 sugar till it become a rich sirup; weigh 
 two pounds of apples after they have been 
 peeled, cored, and cut small ; boil them in 
 the sirup with the grated peel and juice of a 
 large lemon till they are reduced to a pulp ; 
 put it into a mould. The following day 
 serve it, turned out in a glass dish, with a 
 rich custard. 
 
 GERMAN PUFFS. (1) Mix veiy well 
 with two large table-spoonfuls of flour, a quar- 
 ter of a pint of cream, two well-beaten eggs, 
 and a tea-spoonful of grated nutmeg, a verj- 
 little salt, and one ounce of butter teaten to 
 a cream ; bake it in buttered cups for twen- 
 ty or thirty minutes ; turn them out upon a 
 dish, and serve them instantly; poui' a sweet 
 sauce round them. 
 
 GERMAN PUFFS. (2) Beat to a 
 cream a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, 
 blanch and pound one ounce of sweet almonds 
 with a little rose water, beat five yolks and 
 three whites of eggs; mix all together witii 
 two large table-spoonfuls of flour, and sweeten 
 it with pounded loaf sugar; bake it in but- 
 tered cups, and serve them with a sweet 
 sauce. 
 
 GHERKINS OR cucumbers pick- 
 led. Choose gherkins veiy green and 
 straight, brush, and place a layer in a pan, 
 sprinkle them with fine salt, then anodier lay- 
 er of gherkins, which sprinkle wiUi salt also, 
 and continue diis operation until you have 
 used nearly a bushel of gherkins, leave them 
 in the salt for twenty-four hours, which will 
 draw all the water from them; at the end 
 of that lime drain and place them in a jar, 
 with a handful of allspice, the same of tarra- 
 gon, a little balm, ten shallots, six cloves of 
 garlic, two or ihree long peppers, twenty 
 cloves, a lemon cut in quarters, and two 
 small handfuls of salt. Boil two gallons of 
 the best vinegar, pour it over the gherkins, 
 and let them stand till the next day, when 
 boil the vinegar a second time, and pour it 
 on agam; "^ the following day boil the vine- 
 8 
 
 gar for the third and last time, pour it OYer 
 the gherkins, and when quite cold, cover the 
 jar with a wet parchment. 
 
 GIBLET PIE. See Pies. 
 
 GIBLETS STEWED. Clean two sets 
 of giblets, put them into a saucepan, just 
 cover diem with cold water, and set them on 
 die fire ; when diey boil, take off the scum, 
 and put in an onion, diree cloves, or two blades 
 of mace, a few berries of black pepper, the 
 same of allspice, and half a tea-spoonfijl of 
 salt ; cover die ste wpan close, and let it simmer 
 very gently till the giblets are quite tender: 
 this will take from one hour and a half to 
 two and a half, according to the age of the 
 giblets ; the pinions will be done first, and 
 must dien be taken out, and put in again to 
 warm when the gizzards are done: watch 
 them that they do not get too much done: 
 take them out and thicken the sauce with 
 fiour and butter; let it boil half an hour, or 
 till there is just enough to eat with die gib- 
 lets, and dien strain it through a tamis into 
 a clean stewpan ; cut the giblets into mouth- 
 f'uls ; put them into the sauce with the juice 
 of lialf a lemon, a table-spoonful of mush- 
 room ketchup ; pour the whole into a soup- 
 dish, with sippets of bread at die bottom. 
 Ox-tails prepared in the same way are ex- 
 cellent eating. 
 
 GINGERBREAD. Rub one pound of 
 butter well into diree pounds of flour ; then 
 add one pound of powtler-sugar, one pound 
 of treacle, and two ounces of ginger pounded 
 and sifted very fine ; one nutmeg grated very 
 fine ; dien warm a quarter of a pint of cream, 
 and mix all togedier ; you may add carra- 
 ways and sweetmeats if you choose; make 
 it into a stiff' paste, and bake it in a slow 
 oven. If cake or biscuits are kept in paper 
 or a drawer, they will acquire a disagreeable 
 taste. A pan and cover, or tureen, will 
 {M-eserve them long and moist; or if to be 
 crisp, laying diem before die fire will make 
 them so. 
 
 GINGERBREAD, AMERICAN. See 
 
 American. 
 
 GINGERBREAD WITHOUT BUT- 
 TER. Mix two pounds of treacle; of or- 
 ange, lemon, cition, and candied ginger, 
 each four ounces, all thinly sliced ; one ounce 
 of coriander-seeds, one ounce of caraways, 
 and one ounce of beaten ginger, in as much 
 paste as will make a soft paste; lay it in 
 cakes or tin plates, and bake it in a quick 
 oven. Keep it dry in a coveied earthen 
 vessel, and it will be good for some months, - 
 
 GINGERBREAD INDIAN. Take 
 
GIN 
 
 86 
 
 GIN 
 
 twelve ounces of pounded loaf sugar, a quar- 
 ter of a pound of fresh butter, one pound of 
 dried flour, two ounces of pounded ginger, 
 and of cloves and cinnamon a quarter of an 
 ounce each. Mix tne ginger and tlie spice 
 with the flour ; put the sugar and a small 
 tea-cupful of water into a saucepan ; when 
 it is dissolved, add the butter, and as soon 
 as it is melted, mix it witli the flour and 
 other tilings; work it up, and form the 
 paste into cakes or nuts, and bake them 
 upon tins. 
 
 GINGERBREAD, LAFAYETTE. 
 Five eggs ; half a pound of brown sugar ; half 
 a pound of fresh butter; a pint of sugai-house 
 molasses ; a pound and a half of flour ; four 
 table-spoonfuls of ginger; two large sticks of 
 cinnamon ; three dozen grains of allspice ; 
 three dozen of cloves ; the juice and grated 
 peel of two lemons. Stir the butter and su- 
 gar to a cream ; beat the eggs very well ; 
 pour the molasses at once, into the butter 
 and sugai". Add the ginger and other spice, 
 jmd stir all well together. Put in the egg 
 and flour alternately, stirring all the time. 
 Stir the whole very hard, and put in llie 
 lemon at the last. When the whole is mix- 
 ed, stir it till very light. Butter an eardien 
 pan, or a thick tin or iron one, and put the 
 gingerbread in it. Bake it in a moderate 
 oven, an hour or more, according to its 
 thickness. Take care that it do not burn. 
 Or you may bake it in small cakes, or lit- 
 tle tins. Its lightness will be much improv- 
 ed by a small tea-spoonful of pearlash dis- 
 solved in a tea-spoonful of vinegar, and stir- 
 red lightly in at the last. Too much pearl- 
 ash will give it an unpleasant taste. If you 
 use pearlash, you must omit the lemon, as 
 its taste will be entirely destroyed by the 
 pearlash. You may substitute for the lem- 
 on some raisins and currants, well floured 
 to prevent tiieir sinking. 
 
 GINGERBREAD NUTS. (1) Take four 
 pounds of flour, half a pound of sifted sugar, 
 an ounce of caraway-seeds, half an ounce 
 of ginger pounded and sifted, six ounces of 
 fi-esh butter, and two ounces of candied or- 
 ange-peel cut into small slices ; then take a 
 pound of treacle or honey, and a gill of 
 cream, make tliera warm together; mix it, 
 with all the ingredients, into a paste, and 
 let it lay six hours ; then roll it out, make it 
 into nuts, and bake them in a moderate oven. 
 
 GINGERBREAD NUTS. (2) Take 
 one pound of dried and sifted flour, one 
 pound of treacle, three ounces of brown su- 
 gar, four ounces of fresh butter, one ounce 
 and a half of pounded and sifted ginger, of 
 candied orange-peel and citron, cut small, 
 ihree-quai'ters of an ounce each; melt the 
 
 butter with the treacle, and when it is about 
 milk-warm, add it to the flour and other 
 ingredients, and then mix all well together ; 
 witli a spoon drop the nuts upon buttered 
 tins, and bake them. 
 
 GINGERBREAD NUTS. (3) Dis- 
 
 solve a quarter of a pound of butter in three- 
 quarters of a pound of tieacle, put it into a 
 pan large enough to contain the rest of the 
 ingredients, and when almost cold, stir in 
 one pound of dried and sifted flour, half a 
 pound of coarse brown sugar, half an ounce 
 of caraway seeds, three-quarters of an ounce 
 of pounded gingei', and the grated peel of a 
 lemon ; mix all these well together, and let 
 it stand till it be stiff, or till the following 
 day, then make it into nuts, by pinching it 
 into pieces with the finger and tliumb. 
 Bake them upon buttered tins in a quick 
 oven. Half an ounce of coriander seeds 
 u)ay be added. 
 
 GINGERBREAD NUTS. (4) Rub 
 half a pound of butter into two pounds of 
 flour; add one pound of coarse sugar, and 
 one ounce of pounded ginger; mix all well 
 together with one pound and two ounces of 
 treacle ; form it into nuts, or roll it out, and 
 cut it into round cakes; bake them upon 
 tins. 
 
 GINGERBREAD, OATMEAL. Sift 
 four pounds of oatmeal, and mix with it four 
 pounds of treacle, half a pound of brown su- 
 gar, the same quantity of melted butter, and 
 tliree-(|uarters of an ounce of powdered gin- 
 ger. Woik it all well together, let it re- 
 main for twenty-four hours, and then make 
 it into cakes. 
 
 GINGER BEER. See Beer. 
 
 GINGER CAKES. Put four pounds of 
 flour u]3on the dresser ; then take a copper 
 saucepan, and break into it six eggs, and 
 mix them well with a spoon ; add one pint 
 of cream to them, and beat them well; put 
 the saucepan over the fire, stir till your mix- 
 ture is warm ; put two pounds of butter into 
 the cream and eggs, and one pound of sugar, 
 and keep stirring it over a very slow fii-e, 
 just to melt all the butter; put in four ounces 
 of pounded ginger, and as soon as all the 
 butter is melted, pour it all into the middle 
 of the flour ; mix it as well as you possibly 
 can, till it becomes a fine paste ; then roll it 
 out with flour under it on your dresser; cut 
 them to the size of the top of a tea-cup, a 
 quarter of an inch in thickness ; and before 
 you put them into the oven (which should be 
 very hot), place three papers under them. 
 
 GINGER IMITATION. Peel off the 
 
GLA 
 
 87 
 
 GOO 
 
 oater coat of the tender stems of lettuce that is 
 short, cut it into bits one or two inches long, 
 and throw it into cold water ; to each pound 
 put in a tea-spoonful of Cayenne, and a 
 little salt ; let it stand one or two days ; al- 
 low an ecjual proportion of fine loaf sugar, 
 which clarify. Soak some good ginger in 
 hot water, slice it, and add it to the sugar, 
 allowing one ounce and a half to the pound, 
 and boil it for fifteen minutes ; strain off the 
 water from the lettuce, and pour over it 
 the sirup, keeping back the ginger, with 
 which die simp must be boiled three times, 
 and poured over the lettuce, two or tlu-ee 
 days intervening between each boiling; and 
 at last add the strained juice of one or two 
 lemons. 
 
 GLACE, ROYAL. Put the white of a 
 new-laid egg into a pan, and mix with it a 
 Bufficient quantity of white powder-sugar to 
 make a glace or icing, neither too dry nor 
 too liquid; beat it well, and add a little 
 lemon-juice to whiten it. By mixing witli 
 this glace, carmine, saffron, indigo, spi- 
 nach-juice, &c. ; it will be either rose-col- 
 ored, yellow, blue, green, &c. according to 
 your taste. 
 
 GLAZE. (1) Take the remains of 
 any liquor in which meat has been cooked, 
 and strain it through a silk sieve until quite 
 clear ; then put it into a saucepan and re- 
 duce it over a brisk fire: as soon as it is 
 suflSciently done, that is, when it sticks to 
 the spoon, put it into a smaller saucepan, 
 and set it in the bain-marie; when wanted, 
 add a small piece of fresh butter to it, to 
 correct its saJtness. 
 
 GLAZE. (2) Make a consomme with 
 whatever remnants of fowls or meat that may 
 be in the house ; strain it, and then put it on 
 the fire with two or three whites of eggs 
 beaten to a snow ; stir till it boils, and then 
 set on the side of tlie stove, and place fire 
 on tlie saucepan lid ; as soon as the eggs are 
 set, pass the glaze through a wet cloth ; re- 
 duce this over a large fire, stirring it con- 
 stantly with a wooden spoon to prevent its 
 sticking ; then pour it into a j)ot for use. 
 When wanted, put a small quantity of it in- 
 to a saucepan, and make it hot over a slow 
 fire; and, in this state, lay it gently over 
 such articles as may require glazing, by 
 I of a feather. 
 
 GLAZE. (3) Desire the butcher to break 
 the bones of a leg or a shin of beef, of ten 
 pounds weight (the fresher killed the better) ; 
 put it into a soup-pot (a digester is the l)est 
 utensil for this purpose) that will well hold 
 it; just cover it with cold water, and set it 
 on the fire to heat gradually till it nearly 
 
 boils (this should be at least an hour) ; skim 
 it attentively while any scum rises ; pour in 
 a little cold water, to throw up the scum 
 that may remain ; let it come to a boil again, 
 and again skim it carefully: when no more 
 scum rises, and the broth appears clear (put 
 in neither roots, nor herbs, nor salt), let it 
 boil for eight or ten hours, and then strain 
 it through a hair sieve into a brown stone 
 pan ; set the brotli where it will cool quickly; 
 put the meat into a sieve, let it drain, make 
 potted beef, or it will be very acceptable to 
 many poor families. Next day remove 
 every particle of fet from the top of it, and 
 pour it through a tamis, or fine sieve, as 
 quietly as possible, into a stewpan, taking 
 care not to let any of the settlings at the 
 bottom of die stone pan go into the stewpan, 
 which should be of thick copper, perfectly 
 well tinned ; add a quarter of an ounce of 
 whole black pepper to it ; let it boil briskly, 
 with the stewpan uncovered, on a quick 
 fire j if any scum rises, take it oflf with a 
 skimmer: when it begins to thicken, and is 
 reduced to about a quart, put it into a smal- 
 ler stewpan ; set it over a gentler fire, till k 
 is reduced. 
 
 GODIVEAU. Take fillet of veal or 
 breasts of fowl or game, fresh pork or 
 sausage meat, beef-marrow or suet, equal 
 quantities of each, veal sweetbreads, trut 
 fles, and mushrooms ; season these articlei 
 with pepper, cloves, and nutmeg, all in 
 powder; pound them all togedier, and 
 put in (one at a time) the yolks of eggs; 
 pour in also a little water, pounding con- 
 tinually, until it is reduced to a sort of paste. 
 Make a small ball of it, which boil in a 
 little water to ascertain whetlier it be suf. 
 ficiently salt; sweet herbs may be added 
 when you are about to use it. The godiveau 
 is used as a farce for tourtes and hot pie«. 
 
 GOOSE, TO CHOOSE. Be careful 
 
 in choosing a goose, that the bill and feet 
 are yellow, as it will be young : when old 
 the feet and bill are red. When they are 
 fresh tlie feet are pliable ; if stale they are 
 diy and stiff. Green geese are in season 
 from May or June, till they are three months 
 old; they should be scalded. A stubble 
 goose is good till it is five or six months 
 old, and should be picked dry. 
 
 GOOSE ROASTED. A stubble gooee 
 should be stuffed with sage and onions, 
 chopped small, and mixed with pepper and 
 salt ; boil die sage and onion in a little ws»- 
 ter before they are chopped, or mix a few 
 bread crumbs with tliem when chopped; 
 either will render tliem less strong. Put it 
 first at a distace fi-om the fire, and by de- 
 grees draw it nearer, A slip of paper 
 
GOO 
 
 88 
 
 GRA 
 
 should be skewered on the breast bone. 
 Baste it very well. When the breast is 
 rising, take off the paper, and be careful to 
 serve it before tlie breast falls, it will be 
 spoiled by coming to table ffettened. Serve 
 it with good grav7 and apple sauce, in 
 boats. It will take about an hour and a 
 I fcalf to roast. 
 
 GOOSE TO TRUSS. The goose must 
 be first well picked and stubbed, tlien cut 
 off the pinions at the first joint, and the 
 feet also. Make a slit in tlie back of the 
 neck, and take out the throat, cut off tlie 
 neck close to the back and the skin, but 
 leave enough to turn over the back ; make a 
 slit between the vent "and the rump, through 
 which draw out the entrails, then wipe it 
 clean. Draw the legs up, keeping them 
 close to the side, then put a skewer into 
 the wing, through the middle of the leg, 
 body, and the leg and wing on the other 
 side ; put another skewer through the small 
 of the leg, which keep close to the sidesmen ; 
 run it through, and do the same on the oth- 
 er side. Cut tlii-ough die end of tlie vent, 
 through which put the rump, to prevent the 
 stuffing from falling out. 
 
 GOOSEBERRY CREAM. Boil one 
 quart of gooseberries very quick, in as much 
 water as will cover them : stir in about half 
 an ounce bf good butter; when they are 
 soft, pulp them through a sieve; sweeten 
 the pulp while it is hot, with sugar, then 
 beat it up with the yolks of four eggs ; serve 
 in a dish, cups,' or glasses. 
 
 GOOSEBERRY FOOL. Put goose- 
 beiTies into a stone jar, with some fine su- 
 gar ; put the jar either in a stove, or in a 
 saucepan of water, over the fire ; if in a 
 stove, a large spoonfiil of water should be 
 added to the fruit. When it is done to pulp, 
 press it through a colander ; have ready a 
 sufficient quantity of new milk, and a tea- 
 cupfiil of raw cream, boiled together, or 
 you may use an egg instead of the cream ; 
 leave it to get cold, then sweeten well with 
 fine sugar, and mix the pulp by degrees 
 with it. 
 
 GOOSEBERRY MARMALADE. Boil 
 them a moment, or only scald them in boil- 
 ing water, sift them through a sieve ; reduce 
 them over the fire to half, then mix them 
 with sugar prepared to the ninth degree (a 
 ia grande plume) , half a pound of sugar to 
 a pound of fruit. 
 
 GOOSEBERRY JAM. See Jam, 
 
 GOOSEBERRY PASTE. Gather, 
 whoa quite ripe, the rough red gooseberries ; 
 
 top and tail tliem ; put them into a jar, tie 
 it over with bladder, and boil it in a pot 
 of water till the fruit be perfectly soft ; pour 
 off the thin juice, and with a wooden spoon 
 rub the gooseberries tlirough a fine hair 
 sieve ; allow rather more than half the 
 weight of the pulp of pounded loaf sugar, 
 mix it together, and boil it till it will jelly, 
 which will take almost two hours ; stir, and 
 skim it, then put it into a dish, and seiTe 
 when cold, to be eaten with cream. The 
 thin juice may lie boiled with its weight of 
 good brown sugar, and used as gooseberry 
 
 jelly- 
 
 GOURDS FRIED. (1) Cut five or six 
 gourds in quarters ; take off the skin and 
 pulp ; stew them in the same manner as for 
 table: when done, drain them quite dry; 
 beat up an egg, and dip the gourds in it, 
 and cover them well over with bread-crumbs ; 
 make some hog's-lard hot, and fi-y tliem a 
 nice light color ; throw a little salt and 
 pepper over them, and serve up quite dry. 
 
 GOURDS FRIED. (2) Take six or 
 eight small gourds, as near of a size as pos- 
 sible; slice them with a cucumter-slice ; 
 dry them in a cloth, and then fry them in 
 very hot lard ; throw over a little pepper and 
 salt, and serve up on a napkin. Great at- 
 tention is requisite to do these well ; if the 
 fat is quite hot they are done in a minute, 
 and will soon spoil ; if not hot enough, they 
 will eat greasy and tough. 
 
 GOURDS STEWED. Take off all 
 the skin of six or eight gourds, put them in- 
 to a stewpan, with water, salt, lemon-juice, 
 and a bit of butter, or fat bacon, and let 
 them stew gently till quite tender, and sen'e 
 up with a rich Dutch sauce, or any other 
 sauce you please that is piquante. 
 
 GRAPES, COMPOTE. Boil a quarter 
 of a pound of sugar with half a glass of wa- 
 ter, till it is reduced to a strong sirup ; skim, 
 and dien put into it a pound of grapes, pick- 
 ed from the stalks, and the seeds taken out; 
 give them a boil two or three times, and 
 then place them in a dessert dish: if there is 
 any scum upon them, carefully wij)e it off 
 with white paper. 
 
 GRAPES, PICKLED. The giapes 
 must be at their full growth, but not ripe, 
 cut them in small bunches ; put them in a 
 stone jar, with vine leaves Ijetween each 
 layer of grapes, till the jar is full; then take 
 as" much spring-water as will cover the 
 grapes and the leaves ; as it heats put in as 
 much salt as will make a brine sufficiently 
 strong to bear an egg ; you must use half 
 bay salt and half common salt ; when it 
 
GRA 
 
 89 
 
 GRA 
 
 boils, skim it ; strain it thi-ough a flannel 
 bag, and let it stand to settle ; by the time it 
 is cold it will be quite settled ; strain it a 
 second time through a flannel bag ; then pour 
 it into the jar, upon the grapes, which must 
 be well covered ; fill the jar with vine leaves ; 
 then tie it over with a double cloth, and set 
 a plate upon it; let it stand for two days, 
 then take off" the cloth, pour away the brine, 
 and take out the leaves and the grapes, and 
 lay them between two cloths to dry; then 
 take two quarts of vinegar, one quart of 
 spring-water, and one pound of coarse sugar, 
 boil it for a short time, and skim it veiy 
 clean as it boils ; let it stand till it is quite 
 cold; wipe the jar very clean and dry, lay 
 some fi-esh vine leaves at the bottom, between 
 every bunch of gra{)es, and on the top ; then 
 pour and strain the pickle on the grapes ; 
 fill tlie jar ; let the pickle be above the grapes ; 
 tie up a thin piece of board in a flannel, lay 
 it on the giapes to keep them under the 
 pickle ; tie them down with a bladder, and 
 over that a leather. Always keep the grapes 
 under the pickle. 
 
 GRATIN. Cut half a pound of fillet of 
 veal into dice, and put it into a stewpan 
 with a piece of butter, a few mushrooms, 
 parsley, shallots chopped small, salt, pepper, 
 and spices; stir them up with a wooden 
 spoon ; and when the meat has been on the 
 fire about a quarter of an hour, take the 
 drain off" the butter, mince it very small, and 
 put it into a mortar, with fifteen fowl or 
 game livers, well washed, dried, and par- 
 boiled, all the bitter parts taken out, pound 
 them, adding at times as much panada as 
 you have meat; boil some calf's udder, trim, 
 and remove all the skin when cold, and put 
 al)OHt a third of the quantity of meat, and 
 pound them together, adding, one at a time, 
 three yolks, and three whole eggs ; season 
 with salt, pepper, and spices; when well 
 pounded, set it by in an earthen pan for 
 use. 
 
 GRAVY. 
 Sauces. 
 
 See also Cullis and 
 
 GRAVIES, DIRECTIONS respect- 
 ING. — The skirts of beef and the kidney, 
 will make quite as good gravy as any other 
 meat, if prepared in the same manner. 
 
 The kidney of an ox, or the milt, makes 
 excellent gravy, cut all to pieces, and pre- 
 pared as other meat ; and so will the shaYik 
 end of mutton that has been dressed, if much 
 gravy is not required. 
 
 The shank-bones of mutton add gi'eatly to 
 the richness of gravy ; but they should" be 
 first well soaked, and scoured clean. 
 
 To obtain the flavor of French cookery, 
 and to improve the taste of the gravies, tar- 
 8* 
 
 ragon should be used ; but it must not be 
 added till a short time before serving. 
 
 GRAVY. (1) Take three pounds of beef 
 steaks, two rabbits, (excepting the heads 
 and breasts), a knuckle of veal, five carrots, 
 six onions, two cloves, two bay leaves, a 
 bunch of parsley and scallions ; put all these 
 into a stewpan, with two ladlesfiil of broth, 
 and set them over a good fire to reduce; 
 then cover the stove, and let the stev»rpan 
 sta)id over it, until the meat begins to give 
 out tlie gravy, and adheres slightly ; the jel- 
 ly at the bottom of the stewpan ought to be 
 nearly black, and when that is the case, 
 take it from the stove, and let it stand for 
 ten minutes ; then fill up the stewpan with 
 good broth, or water, (if die latter, not so 
 large a quantity) ; let this simmer for three 
 hom-s; skim and season it well. If water 
 is used instead of broth, the gravy must be 
 strained before it is used. Gravy may also 
 be made of any pieces of ready dressed 
 meat, in the following manner: cut some 
 onions into slices, lay tliem at the bottom of 
 the stewpan, and the meat on them, witli 
 the same ingredients as above, and two or 
 three glasses of water ; dien proceed in the 
 same manner as the other, until the bottom 
 of the stev\'pan is nearly black, when add 
 water according to the quantity of meat; 
 put salt if necessary, and simmer the whole 
 len strain it through a 
 
 for two hours 
 sieve 
 
 GRAVY. (2) Cut down into slices four 
 pounds of lean beef, rub the bottom of the 
 pot with butter, and put in the meat ; turn it 
 frequently till it be well browned, and do it 
 slowly, then add four quarts of cold water ; 
 when it has boiled two hours, put in two 
 dessert-spoonfuls of whole pepper, one car- 
 rot, and three onions ; let it stew gently for 
 four hours longer, strain it, and when it is 
 required for use, take off the fat. This gra- 
 vy answers for all made dishes when brown 
 gravy sauce is used. 
 
 GRAVY AND STUFFING FOR 
 DUCKS. Boil all the giblets excepting the 
 liver for an hour in a pint of water with ai 
 chopped onion, some salt and pepper; strain, 
 and add a veiy little browning, with a tea- 
 spoonfiil of coratch, and one of mushroom 
 ketchup; for the stuffing, mince the raw 
 liver with two sage leaves, a small onion, 
 some pepper and salt, a bit of butter, and 
 grated bread crumbs. 
 
 Send your sauces to table as hot as pos- 
 sible. 
 
 Nothing can be more unsightly than the 
 surface of a sauce in a fi-ozen state, or gar- 
 nished with grease on the top. The best 
 way to get rid of this, is to pass it through 
 
(iRA 
 
 90 
 
 GRA 
 
 a tamis or napkin previously soaked in cold 
 water ; the coldness of the napkin will coag- 
 ulate the fat, and only suffer the pure gravy 
 to pass through : if any particles of fat re- 
 main, take them off by applying filtering pa- 
 per, as blotting paper is applied to writing. 
 Let your sauces boil up after you put in 
 wine, anchovy, or thickening, that theii- fla- 
 vors may be well blended witli the other in- 
 gredients; and keep in mind that the 
 top-knot of COOKERY is, to entertain die 
 mouth witliout offending the stomach. 
 
 GRAVIES AND SAUCES. It is of 
 
 as much importajiice that die cook should 
 know how to make a boat of good gravy for 
 poultry, &c. as that it should be sent up of 
 proper complexion, and nicely frodied. 
 
 We shall endeavor to introduce to her all 
 the materials which give flavor in sauce 
 which is the essence of soup, and intended 
 lo contain more relish in a tea-spoonful 
 than the former does in a table-spoonful. 
 
 We hope to deseive as much praise fiom 
 the economist as we do from the bon vivant; 
 as we have taken great pains to introduce to 
 him the methods of making substitutes for 
 those ingredients, which are always expen- 
 sive, and often not to be had at all. Many 
 of these cheap articles are as savory and 
 as salutary as the dearer ones, and tliose who 
 have large families and limited incomes, will, 
 no doubt, be glad to avail themselves of 
 them. 
 
 The reader may rest assured, that wheth- 
 er he consults this book to diminish the ex- 
 pense f)r increase the pleasures of hospitality, 
 he will find all the information that was to 
 be obtained up to 1832, communicated in 
 the most unreserved and intelligible manner. 
 
 A great deal of die elegance of cookeiy 
 depends upon the accompaniments to each 
 dish being appropriate and well adapted 
 to it. 
 
 We can assure our readers, no attention 
 has been wanting on our j)art to render this 
 department of the work worthy of their pe- 
 i*usal I each receipt is the faithful "narrative 
 of actual and repeated experiments, and has 
 received the most deliberate consideration 
 before it was here presented to diera. It is 
 given in the most circumstantial manner, 
 and not in the technical and mysterious lan- 
 guage former wiiters on these subjects seem 
 to have preferred ; by which their directions 
 are useless and unintelligible to all who have 
 not regularly served an apprenticeship at tlie 
 stove. 
 
 It will be to very little purpose that I 
 have taken so much pains to teach how to 
 manage roasts and boils, if a cook cannot or 
 will not make the several sauces Uiat ai-e 
 usually sent up with them. 
 
 We have, therefore, endeavored to give 
 
 the plainest directions how to produce, with 
 the least ti-ouble and expense possible, all 
 the various compositions the English kitchen 
 affords ; and hojie to present such a whole- 
 some and palatable variety as will suit all 
 tastes and all pockets, so that a cook may 
 give satisfaction in all families. The more 
 combinations of this sort she is acquainted 
 with, the better she will comprehend the 
 management of every one of them. 
 
 Let your seiuces each display a decided 
 character; send up your plain sauces (oys- 
 ter, lobster, &c.) as pure as possible: they 
 should only taste of the materials from which 
 they take their name. 
 
 The imagination of most cooks is so in- 
 cessantly on the hunt for a relish, that they 
 seem to think Uiey cannot make sauce suffi- 
 ciently savory without putting into it every- 
 tliing that ever was eaten; and supposing 
 every addition must be an improvement, diey 
 frequently overpower the natural flavor of 
 their plain sauces, by overloading them 
 with salt and spices, &c. : but, remember, 
 these will he deteriorated by any addition, 
 save only just salt enough to awaken die 
 palate. 
 
 On thecontraiy, of COMPOUND sauces; 
 the ingredients should be so nicely propor- 
 tioned, that no one be predominant; so that 
 from the equal union of die combined fla- 
 vors such a fine mellow mixture is produced, 
 whose very novelty cannot fail of teing ac- 
 ceptable to die persevering gourmand, if it 
 has not pretensions to a permanent place at 
 his table. 
 
 An ingenious cook will form as endless a 
 variety of these compositions as a musician 
 with his seven notes, or a painter with his 
 colors ; no part of her business offers so lair 
 and firequent an opportunity to display her 
 abilities: spicks, herbs, &c. are often 
 very absmdly and injudiciously jumbled to- 
 gether. 
 
 Why have clove and allspice, or mace and 
 nutmeg, in the same sauce; or marjoram, 
 thyme, and savory; or onions, leeks, es- 
 chalots, and garlic'? one will very well suj)- 
 ply the place of the other, and the frugtd 
 cook may save something considerable l<r 
 attending to this, to the advantage of hei- 
 employers, and her own time and trouble. 
 
 ICZF^ -See Sauces and Cullis for 
 other important particulars. 
 
 GRAVIES, ESSENCE OF HAM 
 FOR. Pick off all die bits of meat from a 
 ham-bone, pound them, break the bone, and 
 put all intO'H saucepan, together with neaily 
 half a pint of water, and a bunch of sweet 
 herbs ; simmer gently for sometime, stirring 
 it occasionally ; then add a pint of gocd beef 
 gravy, and some pepper, and continue to 
 simmer it till it be well flavored with th« 
 
GRA 
 
 91 
 
 GRA 
 
 herbs ; stniin, and keep it for improving rich 
 gravies and sauces of all descriptions. 
 
 GRAVY FOR BOILED MEAT, May 
 
 be made with parings and trimmings; or 
 pom- from a fiuarter to half a pint of the li- 
 quor in which the meat was boiled, into the 
 dish vvidi it, and pierce the inferior part of 
 the joint with a shsu-p skewer. 
 
 GRAVY FOR ROAST MEAT. (1) 
 
 Most joints will afford suflicient triinmiiiga, 
 &c. to make half a pint of plain gravy, which 
 )'OH may color with a few diops of browniiig: 
 for those that do not, alwut half an hour be- 
 fore you think die meat will be done, mix a 
 gait-spoonful of salt, with a full cjuarter-pint 
 of boiling water; drop this by degrees on 
 the brown parts of the joint ; set a dish un- 
 der to catch it (the meat will soon brown 
 again); set it by; as it cools, the fat will 
 float on the surface ; when the meat is ready, 
 carefully remove the fat, and warm up die 
 gravy, anri pour it into the dish. 
 
 The common method is, when the meat 
 is in the dish you intend to send it up in, 
 to mix half a tea-spoonful of salt in a quarter 
 pint of boiling water, and to drop some of 
 this over the corners and underside of the 
 meat, and to pour die rest dirough the hole 
 the spit came out of; some pierce tlie infe- 
 rior parts of the joints with a sharp skewer. 
 
 The following receipt was given us by a 
 very good cook: — You may make good 
 browning for roast meat and poultrj', by 
 saving tlie brown bits of roast meat or broil- 
 ed; cut them small, put them into a basin, 
 cover them with boiling walei-, and put them 
 away till next day ; Uien put it into a sauce- 
 pan, let it boil two or three minutes, strain 
 it tlii'ough a sieve into a basin, and put it 
 away for use. When you want gravy for 
 roast meat, put two table-spoonfuls into half 
 a pint of boiling water widi a little salt: if 
 for roasted veal, put three table-spoonfuls 
 into half a pint of thin melted butter. 
 
 The gravy which comes down in the dish, 
 the cook (if she is a good housewife) will 
 pr'Cf^erve to enrich hashes or little nuide 
 dishes-, &.C. 
 
 GRAVY FOR ROAST MEAT. (2) 
 
 About a quarter of an how before the meat 
 is taken from the fire, put a common dish 
 with a tea-spoonful of salt in it under the 
 meat; when it has all run into the dish, re- 
 move it, baste and froth the meat, and pour 
 tile gravy into the dish on which the roast is 
 to be served. 
 
 GRAVY MADE FROM BONES. 
 Break into small pieces a pound of beef, 
 mutton, or veal bones, if mixed together so 
 much the better ; boil them in two quarts of 
 
 water, and afler it boils, let it simmer for 
 nearly du-ee hours : boil with it a couple of 
 onions, a bunch of sweet herbs, some salt 
 and {lepper; strain, and keep it for making 
 gravy oi" sauces. The bones of broiled and 
 roasted meat being scraped, washed clean, 
 and boiled in less water, answer equally well 
 for this purpose. 
 
 GRAVY MADE WITHOUT MEAT. 
 
 (1) Slice duee onions, and ti-y them brown 
 in a little buttei- ; add diem to half a pint 
 of water, and die same of beer, put in some 
 I)eppercorns, salt, a little lemon peel, three 
 cloves, a Itttle mace or pepper, a spoonful 
 of wahuit pickle, and one of mushroom 
 ketchup, of soy and essence of anchovy a 
 dessert-spoonful each, a small bunch of sweet 
 herbs, and a quarter of a slice of bread 
 toasted brown on both sides ; simmer all to- 
 gether in a closely covered saucepan for 
 twenty minutes, dien strain it for use, and 
 when cold take off the fat. It will taste 
 exactly like a gravy made widi meat. 
 
 GRAVY MADE WITHOUT MEAT. 
 
 (2) Knead a good deal of flour into a piece 
 of butter the size of an egg, fiy it in a frj'- 
 ing-pan over a clear fire, stir it constantly 
 with a wooden spoon till it become a nice 
 brown color, taking particular care that it 
 be made perfectly smooth; pour in some 
 boiling water, add a little finely-minced on- 
 ion, some whole pepper and a little salt, put 
 it into a 'small saucepan, cover it closely, 
 and simmer it for a short time; strain, and 
 mix with it a little mushroom ketchup, and 
 Port wine. 
 
 GRAVY OR RICH CULLIS. Cut 
 
 into slices some lean beef, veal, and mutton, 
 cover the bottom of the saucepan with die 
 veal, then put in a few slices of salt pork, 
 next a layer of beef, add a few onions sliced, 
 and the red part of one or two carrots, a 
 little mace, two or Uiree cloves, some wiiole 
 pep[)er, and two or three bay-lea\es, abo^e 
 that th.e nuitton ; cover the pan closely, set it 
 on a slow fire, and when the meat is a fine 
 brown, mix quite smooth a small qnanlity 
 of flour in water, stir it in, and dien add asj 
 much boiling water as will cover the meat 
 well, and a little salt; cover the pan closely, 
 and let it stew an hour and a half; strain, 
 and keep it for use; it will continue good for 
 eight or ten days. 
 
 GRAVY DRAWN. Put a few pounds 
 of gi-avy-beef sliced, and a little whole 
 pepper, into ajar with a cover to fit closely; 
 set die jai- into a pot of cold water, and wheu 
 it boils, add an it wastes more hot water, 
 and keep it boiling gently for six or seven 
 hours, when the richest giavy imaginable 
 
GRA 
 
 92 
 
 HAM 
 
 will be obtained. It may be U! 
 state, or reduced witli water. 
 
 GRAVY, TO MAKE A PINT OF 
 RICH. Brown a quarter of a pound of 
 butter, dredging in two table-spoonfiils of 
 flour, and stirring it constantly ; add a pound 
 of gravy-beef cut into small bits, and two or 
 three onions chopped. When it becomes 
 brown, add some whole pepper, one carrot, 
 a bunch of sweet herbs, and three pints of 
 water ; let it boil gently till reduced to one, 
 tlien strain it. This gravy may be served 
 with roasted turkey or fowl. 
 
 GRAVY, TO CLARIFY. Clarify gra- 
 vy, drawn from beef or veal, with the beaten 
 whites of eggs, allowing one white to a 
 quart. Gravies and soups which are to be 
 clarified should be made very strong, and be 
 highly seasoned. 
 
 GRAVY AND SAUCE ingredi- 
 ents. Browning for made dishes. — Put into 
 a saucepan one pound of good brown sugar, 
 stir it constantly over a slow fire, boil it 
 till it is as thick as treacle, and resembles 
 it in color ; take the pan off" the fire, stir it 
 for a minute or two, and pour in very slowly 
 a quart of boiling water, stirring constantly ; 
 
 !)ut it again on the fire, and boil it for a 
 ittle; pour it into a bowl, and when cold, 
 bottle it. This browning will keep good 
 for a year, and very little of it serves for 
 coloring soups, gravies, or sauces. 
 
 To clarify butter. — Put the butter cut into 
 slices into a nicely-cleaned brass pan, stii" it 
 gently till dissolved: when it lx)ils, draw tlie 
 pan to the side of the fire, skim it, and let 
 it lx)il gently a second lime, and if any scum 
 again rises, take it off"; let it settle for two 
 or three minutes, and strain it gently through 
 a sieve which has a piece of muslin laid 
 into it. 
 
 Fresh Ijeef suet, picked free from skin 
 and sinews, is dissolved in the same way ; 
 it is then strained through muslin into small 
 jars, and when cold, covered with bladder, 
 or it may be strained into cold water; and 
 the cake when cold, wiped dry, folded in 
 white paf)er, and kept in a linen bag. 
 
 Beef suet will keep fresh for sometime 
 if finely chopped and dredged with tlour, 
 and kept in white paper bags in a cool place. 
 
 Beef and mutton drippings are clarified 
 exactly in the manner butter is done, and 
 each kept in a sepamte jar. 
 
 'J'o melt hog's-lard, put it into a jar plac- 
 ed in a pot of water or water bath, strain it 
 into clean bladders or small jars, and cover 
 tliem with paper. Thus prepared, it will 
 keep good a length of time, and is the best 
 thing for frying fish in. 
 
 To fry parsley, wash it, pick it clean. 
 
 in that j and put it into fresh cold v<'ater ,' take it out 
 and then throw it into boiling lard or drip- 
 ping, when it will instantly become crisp; 
 it is then taken out with a slice. 
 
 GRUEL. DR. KITCHENER'S. Ask 
 
 those who are to eat it, if they like it 
 thick or thin ; if the latter, mix well togeth- 
 er by degrees, in a pint basin, one table- 
 spoonful of oatmeal, with three of cold wa- 
 ter ; if the former, use two spoonfuls. 
 
 Have ready in a stewpan, a pint of boil- 
 ing water or milk ; pour this by degrees to 
 the oatmeal you have mixed ; return it into 
 the stewpan ; set it on tlie fire, and let it 
 boil for five minutes ; stirring it all the time 
 to prevent the oatmeal from burning at the 
 bottom of the stewpan ; skim and strain it 
 through a hair sieve. 
 
 2d. To convert this into caudle, add a 
 little ale, wine, or brandy, with sugar ; and 
 if the bowels are disordered, a little nutmeg 
 or ginger, grated. 
 
 Obs. — Gruel may be made with broth in- 
 stead of water; and may l)e flavored with 
 sweet herbs, soup roots, and savory spices, 
 by boiling them for a few minutes in tlie 
 water you are going to make the gruel with. 
 
 H. 
 
 HAM. If it is a very diy Westphalia 
 ham, it must be soaked, according to its age 
 and thickness, from twelve to twenty-four 
 hours ; for a green ham, from four to eight 
 hours will be sufficient. Lukewarm water will 
 soften it much sooner than cold, when suffi- 
 ciently soaked, trim it nicely on the under- 
 side, and pare oflT all the rusty and smoked 
 parts till it looks delicately clean. 
 
 Give it plenty of water-room, and put it 
 in while the water is cold ; let it heat very 
 gradually, and let it be on the fire an hour 
 and a half Ijefore it comes to a boil; let it 
 be well skimmed, and keep it simmering 
 very gently: a middling-sized ham of fiftfien 
 pounds will be done enough in about four or 
 five hours, according to its thickness. 
 
 If not to be cut till cold, it will cut the 
 shorter and tenderer for being boiled about 
 half an hour longer. In a very small family, 
 where a ham vyill last a week or ten days, 
 it is best economy not to cut it till it is cold, 
 it will be infinitely more juicy. 
 
 Pull oflf the skin carefully, and preserAe it 
 as whole as possible; it will form an excel- 
 lent covering to keep the ham moist; when 
 you have removed the skin, rub some bread 
 raspings tlirough a hair sieve, or grate a 
 crust of bread; put it into the perforated 
 cover of the dredging-box, and sliake it over 
 
HAM 
 
 93 
 
 HAM 
 
 it, or glaze it; trim the knuckle with a 
 fringe of cut writing-paper. You may gar- 
 nish with spillage or turnips, &c. 
 
 To pot ham is a much more useful and 
 economical way of disposing of the remains 
 of the joint, tlian making essence of it. 
 
 HAM AND EGGS. Cut some ham 
 into thin slices, and broil them on a gridiron. 
 Fry some eggs in butter. Serve it, laying 
 an egg on each slice of ham. 
 
 HAM, ESSENCE OF. Take three or 
 four pounds of lean ham, cut it into pieces 
 about an inch thick, and lay them in a stew- 
 pan, with slices of carrots, parsnips, and 
 tliree or four onions ; let them stew till they 
 stick to the pan, but take care they do not 
 burn; then by degrees pour in some good 
 veal gravy, a few fresh mushrooms cut in 
 pieces, (or mushroom-powder), truffles, mor- 
 els, cloves, parsley, leek, basil, and a crust 
 of bread; cover it close, and simmer till 
 pretty thick, then strain it off for use. 
 
 HAM GRAVY. Take a deep sauce- 
 pan, put into it a piece of fresh butter, seve- 
 ral slices of ham, about six pieces of veal 
 the size of a walnut, and two or three car- 
 rots cut in small pieces; set these over a 
 slow fire, and let diem stand till tliey give 
 out their juices, and the ham and veal be- 
 come crisp and stick; then put in a little 
 stock, and let it boil ; in an hour's time add 
 a glass of white wine, leave it a quarter of 
 an hour, when it will be sufficiently done; 
 take off every particle of fat ; strain it into 
 a pan, and set it by for use. 
 
 HAM LOAF. Soak a fine ham in cold 
 water for one or two days, according to its 
 age; then put it into a saucepan just big 
 enough to hold it, with no more water than 
 will cover it, and a pint of white wine; let 
 it boil, skimming it carefully, till done. 
 When cold, take out the hock and under 
 bones, and the skin ; pare away some of the 
 fat, and trim it to an oval form as much as 
 possible. Make a farce with the parings of 
 the fat, some veal or game, and sweet herbs 
 minced and pounded. Take a pan the size 
 you wish to have your loaf, lay all over the 
 inside a pretty firm paste, and tlien (hav- 
 ing cut your ham into thin slices) place al- 
 ternate layers of it and the farce in tlie pan, 
 until it be quite full. Put a crust over the 
 top, which must unite with that in which 
 itte ham is ; turn it over on a baking plate, 
 flour it, and put it into a very hot oven for 
 an hour and a half or two hours, according 
 to its size. Serve it cold. 
 
 HAM, MINCED, WITH FRIED EGGS. 
 
 §ee E^gs- 
 
 HAM OMELET. Take a slice of boiled 
 ham, mince it as small as possible, and mix 
 it with a dozen eggs beaten witli a little veal 
 gravy; fry it (keeping it of an equal tliick- 
 ness) in the usual manner. 
 
 HAM, OR TONGUE POTTED. Cut 
 
 a pound of the lean of cold boiled ham or 
 tongue, and pound it in a mortar with a 
 quarter of a pound of the fat, or with fresh 
 butter (in the proportion of about two ounces 
 to a pound), till it is a fine paste (some sea- 
 son it by degrees with a little pounded mace 
 or allspice) : put it close down in pots for 
 that purpose, and cover it with clarified 
 butter, a quarter of an inch tliick; let it 
 stand one night in a cool place. Send it 
 up in the pot, or cut out in thin slices. 
 
 HAM ROASTED WITH MADEIRA. 
 
 Take a fine Westphalia or Bayonne ham, 
 pare and trim it of as round a form jis possi- 
 ble, take off the end bone, and remove 
 the rind fi"om the knuckle ; then lay the ham 
 on a gridiron over the fire, till you can take 
 it up with ease ; soak it, if necessary, and 
 put it in a pan, with slices of carrots and 
 onions, thyme, bay-leaf, and coriander ; pour 
 a bottle of Madeira upon it, cover it with a 
 clean cloth, and close the pan as tight as 
 possible, and let it remain twenty-four hours; 
 then wrap the ham in very thick pajier, fas- 
 ten it with paste, so tliat it may be com- 
 pletely enclosed, tie it on a spit, and put 
 it to roast for three hours; then make a 
 small hole in the paper, and pour in, by 
 means of a funnel, 4;he Madeira wine, paste 
 paper over the hole, and let it roast anoUier 
 hour. When done, take off the paper care- 
 fully, so that none of the g^"avy may escape, 
 mix it with some reduced espagrwhy glaze 
 the ham, and serve it. 
 
 HAM TOAST. Cut some crumb of 
 bread into thin slices; then take an equal 
 number of thin slices of ham, beat them well 
 with a rolling pin, and then soak them in 
 warm water for about two hours ; take them 
 out, dry them well, and put them into a 
 saucepan with a little bacon, a slice of veal, 
 and half a glass of stock ; let tliem boil for 
 half an hour, and then add half a glass of 
 veal blond. Fry yoiur bread to a nice col- 
 or in some lard ; lay it on a dish, and on each 
 piece lay a slice of the ham ; pour the sauce 
 over them. Take particular care to cut 
 the ham as nearly as possible the size and 
 shape of tlie bread. 
 
 HAM TO STEW. Soak the ham in 
 lukewarm water for twelve houi-s, drain it, 
 and scrape the rind ; put it into a stewpan 
 with some slices of fat bacon round the sides, 
 four quarts of weak stock, a good deal of 
 
HAR 
 
 94 
 
 HAR 
 
 parsley, a bunch of sweet herbs, six large 
 ■onions, four caiTots, a little allspice and 
 pepper, a pint of Madeira, and one of Port 
 wine. Cover the ham witli slices of fat ba- 
 con, and put over it a sheet of white paper; 
 stew it eight hoiu's, or ten if it be a very 
 large ham. Before sening, take off the 
 rind, strain the sauce, skim it well, and 
 •boil it till reduced to a glaze, and pour it 
 round the ham, or serve it witli any other 
 eauce diat may be preferred. 
 
 HAM WITH MADEIRA. Soak in 
 water for two hoiu-s a Bayonne, or any other 
 fine ham, bofl it for two hours, trim it quick- 
 ly, and then put it into a stewpan, with thin 
 «lices of veal at tlie bottom ; add some car- 
 rots and parsley, and season with spices. 
 Pour over the ham a pint of rich stock and 
 a bottle of Madeira ; let it boil for two hours, 
 strain and skim the fat off the sauce, 
 which, with tlie ham, must be served quite 
 hot. 
 
 HARE. As soon as the cook receives a 
 hare, she should take out the liver, &c., wipe 
 it well, put in a little pepper, and hang it 
 ■•op. When wanted for dressing, cut off 
 ihe four legs at the first joint, raise the 
 skin of the back, and draw it over the 
 hind legs ; leave the tail whole, tlien draw 
 the skin over the back, and slip out the foiu- 
 legs ; cut it from the neck and head ; skin 
 the ears, and leave them on. Clean tlie 
 vent. Cut the sinews under the hind legs ; 
 bring them forward ; run a skewer through 
 one hind leg, the body, and another hind 
 leg ; do the same with the fore legs ; lay the 
 head rather back ; put a skewer in at the 
 mouth, through the back of tlie head and 
 between the shoulders; put in the stuffing, 
 and tie it round ^ith a string, passing it 
 over the legs to keep them in their places : 
 the hare is then ready for roasting. See 
 Hare Rotutted. 
 
 HARE, JUGGED. Having skinned a 
 hare, cut off the shoulders and legs, and di- 
 vide the hack into three pieces; rub them 
 well with fat bacon, and put them into a 
 stewpan with the trimmings, allspice, mace, 
 whole pepijer, a small clove of garlic, two 
 bay-leaves, three onions, parsley, thyme, 
 sweet marjoram, a quart of veal stock, and 
 thiee gills of Port wine ; simmer the whole 
 till three parts done ; then take out the shoul- 
 ders, legs, and back ; put them into another 
 stewpan, strain the liquor to them, add a 
 little flour and butter, stew them till quite 
 done ; take off the fat, season with cayenne, 
 fialt, and lemon-juice, and serve the whole 
 in a deep dish. 
 
 JiARE ROASTED, Out the skin from 
 
 a hare that has been well soaked ; put it on 
 the spit and rub it well with Madeu-a, prick- 
 ing it in various places tliat it may imbibe 
 plenty of wine; cover it entirely with a 
 paste, and roast it. When done, take away 
 the paste, rub it quickly over witli eg^, 
 sprinkle bread-crumbs, and baste it gently 
 with butter (still keeping it turning before 
 the fire) until a crust is formed over it and 
 it is of a nice brown color; dish it over 
 some espagnole with Madeira wine boiled 
 in it; two or three cloves may be stuck into 
 the knuckles if you think proper. 
 
 HASHED HARE. Cut up the hare 
 into pieces fit to help at table, and divide 
 the jotnts of the legs and shoulders, and set 
 them by ready. Put the trimmings and 
 gra\'y you have left, witli half a pint of wa- 
 ter (there should be a pint of liquor), and a 
 table-spoonful of currant jelly, into a clean 
 stewpan, and let it boil gently for a quarter 
 of an hour: then strain it through a sieve 
 into a basin, and pour it back into the stew- 
 pan ; now flour the hare, put it into the 
 gravy, and let it simmer very gently till the 
 hare is warm (about twenty minutes) ; cut 
 the stuffing into slices, and put it into the 
 hash to get warm, about five minutes before 
 you serve it ; divide the head, and lay one 
 half on each side the dish. 
 
 HARICOT BY WAY OF SOUP. 
 
 Cut a large neck of mutton into two pieces, 
 put the scrag into a stewpan witli a quart 
 of water, four large carrots, and turnips; 
 boil it gently over a slow fire till all the 
 goodness be out of the meat; then bruise 
 the vegetables into the soup to thicken it. 
 Fry six onions (sliced) in butter, and put 
 the other part of die meat to the soup, and 
 stew till the latter is tender; season with 
 pepper and salt, and serve it very hot in a 
 tureen. 
 
 HARICOT MUTTON. Cut the best 
 end of a neck or loin of mutton, that 
 has been kept till tender, into chops of 
 equal thickness, one rib to each ; trim off 
 some of the fat, and die lower end of the 
 chine bone, and scrape it clean, and lay 
 them in a stewpan, with an ounce of butter ; 
 set it over a smart fire ; if your fire is not 
 sharp, the chops will be done before they 
 are colored ; the intention of frying them la 
 merely to give them a very light browning. 
 
 While the chops are browning, peel and 
 l)oil a couple of dozen of young button onions 
 in about three pints of water for about fifteen 
 or twenty minutes, set them by, and pour off 
 the liquor they were boiled in into the stew- 
 pan wiUi die chops: if that is not sufficient 
 to cover them, add as much boiling water as 
 will remove the scum as it rises, and be 
 
HAT 
 
 95 
 
 HER 
 
 <»reM they are not stewed too fast or too 
 much ; so take out one of Uiem witli a fish- 
 slice, and try it: when they are tender, 
 which will be in about an hoiur and a half, 
 then pass the gravy through a sieve into a 
 basin, set it in the open air that it may get 
 cold, you may then easily and completely 
 skim off the fax ; in the meantime set the 
 meat and vegetables by the fire to keep hot, 
 and pour some boiling water over the button 
 onions to warm them. Have about six 
 ounces of cari-ots, and eight ounces of tur- 
 nips, peeled and cut into slices, or shaped 
 into balls about as big as a nutmeg; boil 
 tlie caiTots about half an houi', the turnips 
 about a quarter of an hour, and put them on 
 a sieve to drain, and then put them round 
 the dish, the last thing. 
 
 Thicken die gravy by putting an ounce of 
 butter into a stewpan; when it is melted, 
 stir in as much floiu- as will stiffen it ; pour 
 the gravy to it by degrees, stir together till 
 it boils; strain it through a fine sieve or 
 tamis into a stewjsan, put in the carrots and 
 turnips to get waiin, and let it simmer 
 gently while you dish up the meat ; lay the 
 chops round a dish, put the vegetables in the 
 middle, and pour the thickened gravy over. 
 Some put in capers, &c. minced gherkins, 
 &c. 
 
 Rump-steaks, veal-cutlets, and beef-tails, 
 make excellent dishes dressed in the like 
 manner. 
 
 HASH, COLD. Mince a nice white 
 piece of veal, wash and core some anchovies ; 
 take some pickled oysters, pickled cucum- 
 bers, and a lemon; shred and mix tl;em 
 with the veal, and place it in a dish; lay 
 round it slices of veal, fillets of anchovies, 
 pickled cucumbers sliced, whole pickled 
 oysters, mushrooms and capers; lettuces 
 shred small ; pour in oil and vinegar, salt 
 and pepper, and serve. 
 
 HASHES, MADE DISHES, STEWS, 
 RAGOUTS, SOUPS, TO WARM. Put 
 
 what you have left into a deep hash-dish or 
 tureen; when you want it, set this in a stew- 
 pan of boiling water: let it stand till tlie 
 contents are quite warm. 
 
 HATTERED KIT. (1) Make two 
 quarts of new milk scalding hot, and pour 
 it quickly upon four quarts of fresh-made 
 butter milk, after which it must not be stir- 
 red; let it remain till cold and firm, then 
 take off the top part, drain it in a hair sieve, 
 and put it into a shape for half an hour. It 
 is eaten with weam, served in a separate 
 dish. 
 
 HATTERED KIT. (2) Put into the 
 dish it is to be served in, one-tliird of cream 
 
 with two-diifds of butter-milk, add a little- 
 pounded loaf sugar, and beat it well togeth- 
 er. Strew over it a little pounded cin- 
 namon, and let it stand for three or four 
 hours. 
 
 HAWTHORN LIQUOR. The M\ 
 
 blossoms of the white thorn are to be picked 
 di-y and clean from die leaves and stalks, 
 and as much put into a large bottle as it will 
 hold lightly without pressing down; it is 
 then to be filled up widi French brandy, 
 and allowed to stand two or three months, 
 when it must be decanted off", and sweetened 
 with clarified sugar, or with capillaire. 
 Without the sweetening, it is an excellent 
 seasoning for puddings and custards. 
 
 HEDGEHOG TO MAKE. Blanch 
 two pounds of sweet almonds, beat them to 
 a paste in a mortar, moistening occasionally 
 with Canary and oi*ange-flower water ; beat 
 the yolks of twelve, and the whites of seven 
 eggs with a pint of cream and some powder 
 sugar; put this with the almond paste and 
 half a pound of fresh butter into a saucepan, 
 set it over a stove and keep it constantly 
 stirring till sufficiently firm to be moulded 
 into the shape of a hedgehog: stick it full 
 of blanched almonds, cut lengthwise, into 
 slips, and place it in a dish; beat up the 
 yolks of four eggs, put them to a pint of 
 cream (sweetened to the taste) ; stir them 
 over a slow fire till hot, then pour it round 
 the hedgehog and let it stand: when cold, 
 serve it. A good calf's-foot jelly may be 
 poured round, instead of the cream, if pre- 
 ferred. 
 
 HERBS, A BUNCH OF SWEET, Is 
 
 made up of parsley, sweet marjoram, winter 
 savory, orange and lemon diyme; the great- 
 est proportion of parsley. 
 
 HERBS, SWEET. These in cookei-y 
 are parsley, chibbol, rocambole, winter sa- 
 vory, thyme, bay-leaf, basil, mint, borage, 
 rosemary, cress, marigold, marjoram, &c. 
 The relishing herbs or Ravigotte are tar- 
 ragon, garden-cress, chervil, burnet, civet, 
 and green mustard. 
 
 HERBS TO DRY, SWEET AND 
 SAVORY. It is very important to those 
 who are not in the constant habit of attend- 
 ing the markets to know when the various 
 seasons commence for purchasing sweet 
 herbs. 
 
 All vegetables are in tiie highest state 
 of perfection, and fullest of juice and flavor, 
 just before they begin to flower: tlie first 
 and last crop have neither the fine flavor, 
 nor the perfume of those which are gathered 
 in the height of tlie season ; that is, when 
 
HER 
 
 96 
 
 HOG 
 
 the greater part of the crop of each species 
 is ripe. 
 
 Take care they are gathered on a dry 
 day, by which means they will have a bet- 
 ter color when dried. Cleanse your herbs 
 well from dirt and dust ; cut off the roots ; 
 separate the bunches into smaller ones, and 
 dry them by die heat of a stove, or in a 
 Dutch oven before a common fire, in such , 
 quantities at a time, that Uie process may be 
 speedily finished ; i. e. ' Kill 'era quick,' 
 says a great t)otanist ; by this means their 
 flavor will be best preserved: there can be 
 no doubt of the propriety of drying herbs, 
 &c. hastily by the aid of artificial heat, 
 rather than by the heat of the sun. In the 
 application of ailificial heat, the only cau- 
 tion requisite is to avoid bmning ; and of 
 this a sufficient test is afforded by the pres- 
 ervation of die color. The common cus- 
 tom is, when they ai'e perfectly dried to put 
 them in bags, and lay them in a diy place; 
 but the best way to preserve the flavor of 
 aromatic plants is to pick off the leaves as 
 soon as they are dried, and to pound them, 
 and put tlieni through a hair sieve, and keep 
 them in well-stopped bottles. The common 
 custom is to put them into paper bags, and 
 lay them on a shelf in the kitchen, exposed 
 to all die fumes, steam, and smoke, &c.: 
 thus they soon lose their flavor. 
 
 N. B. Herbs nicely dried are a very ac- 
 ceptable substitute when fresh ones cannot 
 be got; but, however carefully dined, the 
 flavor and fragrance of the fresh herbs are 
 incomparably finer. 
 
 HERRINGS. There are three sorts of 
 herrings, fresh, salted, and dried or red her- 
 rings. They are emptied and cleaned like 
 any other fish; when fresh, they are broiled, 
 and servied with melted butler, white sauce, 
 &c. 
 
 The salted herring should l:>e soaked in 
 cold water before it is cooked ; this is also 
 broiled ; sometimes, however, it is cut in 
 pieces, and eaten raw. 
 
 The red herring is split down Uie back, 
 the head and tail are cut off, and the fish 
 broiled like die odiers. 
 
 They may also be dressed as follows: 
 when they have lain in cold water a suffi- 
 cient time, soak them for two hours in milk, 
 then split them down the back ; then have 
 ready some melted butter, in which has Ijeen 
 mixed basil and bay-leaf, minced small, the 
 yolks of two eggs, pepper and nutmeg ; nib 
 die herrings well widi diis, bread them; 
 broil them over a gentle fire, and serve with 
 lemon-juice. 
 
 The best red herrings are full of roe, 
 are firm and large, and have a yellow 
 cast. 
 
 Of die fieah herring the scales are bright 
 
 if good, the eyes are ftill, and the gills i«l, 
 the fish also should be stiff. 
 
 HERRINGS, BOILED. Scale, and 
 otherwise prepare the herrings in the usual 
 way ; drj- them well, and rub them over with 
 a litde salt and vinegar ; skewer dieir tails 
 in their mouths, lay diem on a fish-plate, and 
 put them into boiling water; in ten or 
 twelve minutes take diem out, drain them, 
 lay them on the dish, the heads towards die 
 middle ; serve them with melted butter and 
 parsley, and garnish with horseradish. 
 
 HERRINGS, RED. Plain broil tiiem, 
 or pour over some beer made hot, and when 
 it is cold drain and wipe them diy ; heat 
 them thoroughly, and rub o\'er a little butter, 
 and sprinkle them with pepper. 
 
 HERRINGS TO BAKE. They must 
 be perfectly fresh, and well cleaned, but not 
 washed ; die heads and fins cut ofl", and the 
 bones cut out ; strew over them pc|)per, salt, 
 and a slice of onion minced veiy finely, to 
 each ; roll diem up tight ; pack them into a 
 jar, and poui* over in the proportion of a 
 pint of vinegar to two of v ater, widi half 
 an ounce of whole black pepper ; tie over 
 the jar a piece of bladder or paper, and 
 bake them in an oven for an hoiu-. Take 
 off the cover when diey are cold, and poui 
 over a little cold vinegar, and tie diem up. 
 
 HERRINGS TO FRY. Scrape off 
 the scales; cut off the fins; draw out the 
 gut, keeping in the roes and melts; wipe 
 dicm in a clean cloth; dredge them widi 
 flour, and fry them in boiling dripping; put 
 them before the fire to drain and keep hot. 
 Sauces; — melted butter, and parsley and 
 butter. When herrings are to be broiled, 
 they are prepared in the same manner, and 
 done upon the gridiron. They must not be 
 washed. 
 
 HIPPOCRAS. Talie one ounce of 
 cinnamon, two drachms of ginger, two pen- 
 ny-weights of cloves, nutmeg, and galangal 
 a penny-weight of each. I'ound these to- 
 gether well, and infuse them in a pint of red 
 or white wine, and a pint of malmsey ; to 
 this, add a pound of the best loaf sugar. 
 These proportions will make a quart of 
 the liquor. 
 
 HOG'S HEAD. Put a head into some 
 pickle, and when it has lain sufficiently long, 
 take it out and boil it till the bones will 
 come out with ease; tiien skin, bone, and 
 chop the meat, whilst hot; season it widi 
 pepper (black and white), nutmeg, and salt, 
 if necessary; lay part of die skin at the 
 bottom of a potting pan, press in the meat. 
 
HUN 
 
 97 
 
 ICE 
 
 cover it with the remainder of tlie skin, put 
 on a weight, and let it stand till quite cold. 
 Then turn it out. Boil the liquor it was 
 dressed in with some vinegar, skini it well, 
 ,, W<1 when cold put the head into it. 
 
 HONEY TO CLARIFY.— M. Fou- 
 que's method. Take six pounds of 
 honey, a pound and three-quarters of water, 
 two ounces and a quarter of pounded chalk, 
 five ounces of coal, (pulverised, washed, and 
 well dried), the whites of tiiree eggs beaten 
 in three ounces of water, for each pound of 
 honey. 
 
 Put the honey, water, chalk, and eggs, 
 into a copper vessel, capable of holding 
 about one-tliird more than the above quanti- 
 ties ; let them boil for two minutes, throw 
 in the coal, mixing it with a spoon, and 
 continue die boiling two minutes longer; 
 then take the saucepan from the fire, and 
 let it stand nearly a quarter of an hour, that 
 the liquor may cool ; then tiike a new sieve 
 (which must be well washed, or it will nn- 
 part a disagreeable taste), pass the honey 
 tlirough it, taking care to filter the first 
 drops twice, as tliey generally carry with 
 them some portion of the coal. » 
 
 The sirup which still adlieres to the coal, 
 and other materials, may be separated as 
 follows: pour boiling water on them until 
 they no longer retain any sweetness; then 
 put these different waters together, set them 
 over a lai'ge fire to evaporate, till the sirup 
 only remains. This sirup contracts the fla- 
 vor of barley sugai", and must not be added 
 to the clarified honey. 
 
 HORSERADISH POWDER. The 
 
 time to make diis is during November and 
 December ; slice it die diickness of a shil- 
 ling, and lay it to diy very gradually in a 
 Dutch oven (a strong heat soon evaporates 
 its flavor) ; when dry enough, pound it and 
 bottle it. 
 
 HOT PICKLE. Boil, in two quarts of 
 vinegar, a quarter of a pound of salt, two 
 ounces of shallots or garlic, and two of gin- 
 ger, one ounce of pep|)er, one of yellow mus- 
 tard seed, and a quarter of an ounce of 
 cayenne ; put into a jar that will hold foiu- 
 quarts, two ounces of allspice, and pour on 
 it tlie hot pickle. When cold, put in any 
 fresh-gathered vegetables or fruit, such as 
 asparagus, cauliflower, French beans, radisli 
 pods, uinipe apples, gooseberries, currants, 
 which may be added as the opportunity of- 
 fers, and, as the pickle wastes, it should be 
 replenished with tlie suine mixture. 
 
 H-BONE OF BEEF. See Beef. 
 
 HUNG BEEF. See Beef. 
 9 
 
 HUNTING BEEF. See Beef. 
 HUNTER'S PIE. See Irish Stew. 
 
 ICE. Sorbetieres or moulds for cream 
 or fiuit-ices, are made of two sorts of ma- 
 terials, block-tin and pewter; of these, the 
 latter is tlie best, the substance to be iced 
 congealing more gradually in it than in the 
 former; an object much to be desired, as 
 when the ice is formed too quickly, it is very 
 apt to be rough, and full of lumps like hail, 
 especially if it be not well worked with the 
 spatula ; tlie other utensils necessai-y for this 
 operation, ai-e, a deep pail, with a cork at 
 the bottom, and a wooden spatula about 
 nine uiches long ; being so fai- provided, fill 
 the pail with pounded ice, over which spread 
 four handfuls of salt; then having filled the 
 sorbetiere, or mould, with cream, &c. ; put 
 on the cover, and immerse it in the centre 
 of die ice-pail ; taking care the ice touches 
 the mould in all parts ; dirow in two more 
 handfuls of salt, and leave it a quarter of an 
 hour ; then take the cover from die mould, 
 and widi die spatula stir the contents up to- 
 gether, so diat diose parts which touch the 
 sides of the mould, and consequently congeal 
 first, may be mixed wiUi the liquid in the 
 middle ; work this about for seven or eigh^- 
 minutes; cover the mould, take the pail by 
 the ears, and shake it round and round for 
 a quarter of an hour ; open the moidd a sec- ' 
 ond time, and stir as before ; continue these 
 operations alternately, until the cream, or 
 whatever it may be, is entirely congealed, 
 and perfectly smooth, and free from lumps. 
 Take care to let out tlie water, which will 
 collect at tlie bottom of die pail, by means 
 of die cork, and press the ice close to the 
 sorbetiere with the spatula. 
 
 When the cream is iced, take it from the 
 pail, dip the mould in warm water, but not 
 to let it remain an instant; dry it quickly, 
 turn it out, and serve it as soon as possible. 
 
 All sorts of ices are finished in this man- 
 ner ; the prepai-ation of the articles of which 
 diey are composed, constitutes the only dif- 
 ference between diem. 
 
 ICE, A VERY LARGE CAKE. Beat 
 
 tlie whites of twenty fresh eggs ; then, by 
 degrees, beat a [lound of double-refined su- 
 gar, sifted through a lawn sieve; mix diese 
 well in a deep earthen pan; add orange- 
 flower water, and a piece of fresh lemon- 
 peel ; do not use more of the orange-flower 
 water than is just suflicient to flavor it. 
 Whisk it for diree hours till die mixture is 
 thick and white; then, With a thin broad 
 
ICI 
 
 98 
 
 IRI 
 
 bit of board, spread it all over the top and 
 sides, and set it in a cool oven, and an hour 
 will harden it. 
 
 ICE FOR ICING (HOW to pre- 
 PARE). Take a few pounds of ice, break 
 it almost to powder, and throw in among it 
 a large handful and a half of salt ; you must 
 prepare in the coolest part of the house, that 
 as little of the warm air as possible may 
 come. The ice and salt lieing in a bucket, 
 put your cream into an ice-pot, and cover it ; 
 immei-se it in the ice, and draw that round 
 the pot, so that it may touch every part. In 
 a few minutes put a spatula or spwon in, and 
 stir it well, removing the parts that ice round 
 the edges to the centre. If the ice-cream or 
 water, be in a form, shut the bottom close, 
 and move the whole in the ice, as you can- 
 not use a spoon to that without danger of 
 waste. There should be holes in the buck- 
 et, to let the ice off as it thaws. 
 
 ICING FOR CAKES. For a large 
 cake, beat and sift eight ounces of fine sugar, 
 put it into a mortar, with four spoonflils of 
 rose water, and the whites of two eggs, 
 beaten and strained, whisk it well, and 
 when the cake is almost cold, dip a feather 
 in the icing, and cover the cake well ; set it 
 in the oven to harden, but do not let it re- 
 main long enough to discolor. Keep the 
 cake in a dry place. 
 
 ICING FOR TARTS. Beat the yolk 
 of an egg and some melted butter well toge- 
 ther; wash the tarts with a feather, and 
 sift sugar over as you put them into the 
 oven ; or beat white of egg, wash the paste, 
 and sift white sugar. 
 
 ICING, FOR TWELFTH OR BRIDE 
 
 CAKE. Take one pound of double-refined 
 sugar, pounded and sifted through a lawn 
 sieve ; put into a pan quite free from grease ; 
 break in die whites of six eggs, and as much 
 powder blue as will lie on a sixpence; beat 
 it well with a spattle fur ten minutes ; then 
 squeeze in the juice of a lemon, and beat it 
 till it becomes thick and transparent. Set 
 the cake you intend to ice in an oven or 
 wann place five minutes ; then spread over 
 the top and sides with the mixture as smooth 
 as possible. If for a wedding cake only, 
 plain ice it; if for a twelfth cake, ornament 
 it with gum paste, or fancy articles of any 
 description. A good twelfth cake, not bak- 
 ed two much, and kept in a cool dry plac*, 
 will retain its moisture and eat well, if 
 twelve mondis old. 
 
 ICING FOR FRUIT TARTS, PUFFS, 
 
 OR PASTRY. Beat up in a half-pint mug 
 the white of two eggs to a solid fi-oth ; lay 
 
 some on tlie middle of the pie with a paste- 
 brush ; sift over plenty of pounded sugar, and 
 press it down Avith the hand, wash out the 
 brush, and splash by degrees widi water till 
 tlie sugar is dissolved, and put it in the oven 
 for ten minutes, and serve it up cold. 
 
 IMPERIAL. Put two ounces of cream 
 of tartar, and die juice and peel of two lem- 
 ons, into a stone jar, pour on diem seven 
 quarts of boiling water, stir, and cover close. 
 AVhencold, sweeten it widi loaf sugar, strain 
 it, bottle and cork it tight. Add in botding, 
 half a pint to the whole quantity. 
 
 INDIA PICKLE. (1) Take one pound of 
 ginger, put it into a pan widi salt and wa- 
 ter, and let it lay all night, then scrape it, 
 and cut it into thin slices ; put it into a pan 
 with half a pound of bay salt, and let it lay 
 till all the following ingredients are prepar- 
 ed; a pound of garlic peeled, and laid in 
 salt for three days, then take it out, wash it, 
 then let it lay in salt for another three days, 
 dien take it out and let it lay in the sun for 
 another, till half dry; an ounce of long pep- 
 per, an ounce of capsicum, salted and laid 
 in the *in for diree days, a pint of black 
 mustard-seed bruised, half an ounce of tur- 
 meric, beat very small ; put all these ingre- 
 dients togedier in a jar, then put in as much 
 vinegar, as, when the cabbage, or whatever 
 you intend to pickle, is put into it, the vine- 
 gar will rise to the top of the jar. Then 
 take cabbage, cauliflower, or whatever you 
 choose to pickle, and cut them into small 
 pieces, throw a good handful of salt over 
 them, and set tliem in tlie sun (when it is 
 very hot) for three days, drain the water 
 from them every day, and fresh salt Uiem 
 again, turning the leaves till they are dry, 
 then put them into the pickle, being partic- 
 ular that they are completely covered wiUi 
 the vinegar; tie it up close, let it stand a 
 fortnight, fill it again with more vinegar, 
 carefiilly watch it from time to time, to fill 
 it uji wiUi vinegar, as it will waste very fiist. 
 
 INDIA PICKLE. (2) OnegaUon of vin- 
 egar, one pound of gailic, a quarter of a 
 pound of long pepper split, half a pound of 
 flour of mustard, one pound of ginger scrap- 
 ed, and split, and two ounces of turmeric. 
 When you have prepared die spice, and put 
 it into the jar, pour die vinegar boiling hot 
 over it, and stir it every day for a week. 
 Then put in your cabbage, cauliflower, or 
 whatever you intend to pickle. 
 
 INDIAN CURRY. See Curry. 
 
 IRISH PUFFS. Add to five well- 
 beaten yolks and two whites of eggs, a large 
 table-spoonfiil of flour, not quite an ounce of 
 
ISI 
 
 99 
 
 JAM 
 
 melted butter, and half a tea-spoonful of salt ; 
 beat it all well foi- ten minutes, and add half 
 a pint of cream; bake it in buttered tea- 
 cups ; turn them out, £uid sen'e them with a 
 Bweet sauce. 
 
 IRISH ROCK. Blanch a pound of 
 sweet and an ounce of bitter almonds, pick 
 out a few of the sweet almonds, and cut 
 them like straws, and blanch them in rose 
 water ; pound the rest in a mortar with a 
 table-spoonful of brandy, four ounces of 
 pounded and sifted loaf sugar, and half a 
 pound of salt butter well washed; pound 
 them till the mass looks very white, and set 
 it in a cool place to stiffen ; tlien dip two 
 table-spoons into cold water, and with them 
 form the paste, as much like an egg as pos- 
 sible; place in tlie bottom of a glass dish, a 
 small plate or saucer turned, and lay the 
 rock high up; stick ovei- it the cut almonds 
 with green sweetmeats, and ornament witli 
 a sprig of myrtle. 
 
 IRISH STEW, OR HUNTER'S Pie. 
 
 Take part of a neck of mutton, cut it into 
 chops, season it well, put it into a stewpan, 
 let it brase for half an houi', take two dozen 
 of jjotatoes, boil diem, mash tliem, and sea- 
 son them, butter your mould, and line it with 
 the potatoes, put in the mutton, bake it for 
 half an hour, then it will be done, cut a hole 
 in tlie top, and add some good gravy to it. 
 
 IRISH STEW. Take five thick mut- 
 ton chops, or two pounds off the neck or 
 loins; two pounds of potatoes; peel them, 
 and cut them in halves ; six onions, or half 
 a pound of onions ; peel and slice them also : 
 fii-st put a layer of potatoes at the bottom of 
 your stewpan, then a couple of chops and 
 some of the onions ; then again potatoes, and 
 60 on, till the pan is quite ilill ; a small 
 spoonful of white pepper, and about one 
 and a half of salt, and three gills of broth or 
 gravy, and two tea-spoonfuls of mushroom 
 ketchup; cover all very close in, so as to 
 prevent the steam from getting out, and let 
 them stew for an hour and a half on a very 
 slow iive. A small slice of ham is a great 
 addition to tliis dish. The cook will be the 
 best judge when it is done, as a great deal 
 depends on the fire you have. Great care 
 must be taken not to let it burn, and that it 
 does not do too fast. 
 
 ISINGLASS, TO CLARIFY. Take 
 an ounce and quarter of the best isinglass, 
 cut it into small pieces, and wash tliem sev- 
 eral times in warm water. Put the isinglass 
 into a preserving pan, with five glasses of 
 filtered water, set it on tlie fii-e, and, as soon 
 as it boils, place it at tlie side of the stove, 
 so as to keep up the boiling ; take off the 
 
 scum directly it rises ; and when the whole 
 is reduced to three-quarters, strain it through 
 a cloth into a basin for use. Some add, in 
 clarifying isinglass, lemon-peel, to remove 
 its disagreeable taste ; but as good isinglass 
 ought to have no flavor, and as tlie lemon- 
 peel is certain to give a yellow tinge to Uiat, 
 it is much better left out. 
 
 ITALIAN CHEESE. Mix widi near- 
 ly half a pound of pounded loaf sugar, the 
 juice of three lemons, two table-spoonfuls 
 of white wine, and a quart of cream ; beat 
 it with a whisk till quite thick, which may 
 be in half an hour ; put a bit of muslin into 
 a hair sieve, and pour in die cream. In 
 twelve hours turn it out, and garnish it with 
 flowers. It may be put into a tin shape, 
 with holes in it. 
 
 ITALIAN MACAROONS. Take, one 
 pound of Valentia or Jordan almonds, blanch- 
 ed, pound them quite fine with tlie whites 
 of four eggs ; add two pounds and a half of 
 sifted loaf sugar, and rub them well togeth- 
 er with the pesth ; put in by degrees about 
 ten or eleven more whites, working diem 
 well as you put them in ; but the best crite- 
 rion to go by in tiying their lightness is to 
 bake one or two, and if you find them heavy, 
 put one or two more whites ; put the mix- 
 ture into a biscuit-funnel, and lay them out 
 on wafer-paper, in pieces about die size of a 
 small walnut, having ready about two oiuices 
 of blanched and dry almonds cut into slips, 
 put diree or four pieces on each, and bake 
 them on wires, or a baking-plate, in a slow 
 oven. Obs. — ^Almonds should be blanched 
 and dried gi-adually two or three days be- 
 fore they are used, by which means they 
 wiU work much better, and where large 
 quantities ai'e used, it is advised to grind 
 tliera in a mill provided for that puipose. 
 
 JAM, APRICOT. (1) Weigh equal 
 quantities of pounded loaf sugar and of ap- 
 ricots ; pare and cut them quite small ; as 
 they are done, strew over half of the sugar. 
 The following day boil the remainder, and 
 add the apricots ; stir it till it boib, take 
 oft" die scum, and when {perfectly clear, add 
 part of die kernels blanched, and boil it 
 two or three minutes. 
 
 JAM, APRICOT. (2) Allow, equal 
 proportions of pounded loaf sugar and of 
 apricots ; pare, and cut diem small ; as they 
 are done, strew part of llie sugar over them, 
 and put the parings into cold water. Break 
 the stones, blanch and ponnd the kernels* 
 
JAM 
 
 100 
 
 JEL 
 
 which, with tlie shells and parings, boil till 
 halftlie quantity of water is reduced, and 
 there is a sufficiency of the liquor, when 
 strained, to allow three or four table-spoon- 
 fuls to a pound of apricots ; put it, with tiie 
 sugar and fruit, into a preserving pan ; mash, 
 and take off tlie scum ; boil it quickly, till 
 transparent. 
 
 JAM, APRICOT, OR ANY PLUM. 
 
 After taking away the stones from the apri- 
 cots, afld cutting out any blemishes they 
 may have ; put them over a slow fire, in a 
 clean stewpan, with half a pint of water; 
 when scalded, rub them through a hair 
 sieve: to eveiy pound of pulp put one pound 
 of sifted loaf sugar ; put it into a preserving- 
 pan over a brisk fire, and when it boils 
 skim it well, and throw in the kernels of 
 tile apricots, and half an ounce of bitter al- 
 monds, blanched; boil it a quarter of an 
 hour fast, and stirring it all the time ; re- 
 move it from the fire, and fill it into pots, 
 and cover them as directed in Raspbeny 
 Jam. N. B. — Green gages or plums may 
 be done in the same way, omitting the ker- 
 nels or almonds. 
 
 JAM, BLACK CURRANT. Gather 
 your currants on a dry day, when they are 
 full ripe, pick them from the stalks, wash 
 them well in a basin, and to every pound 
 of currants, put a pound of double refined 
 sugar, beaten and sifted; put them into a 
 preserving pan, boil them half an hour, skim, 
 and keep them stirring all tlie time: then 
 put tliem into pots: when cold, put brandy 
 paper over, and tie white paper over all. 
 
 JAM, CHERRY. Having stoned and 
 boiled three pounds of fine cherries, bruise 
 them, and let the juice run fi'om them; then 
 boil together half a pound of red currant 
 juice, and half a pound of loaf sugar, put 
 the cherries into these whilst they are boil- 
 ing, and strew on them tliree-quarters of a 
 pound of sifted sugar. Boil all together vei-y 
 fast for half an hour, and then put it into 
 pots. When cold put on brandy papers. 
 
 JAM, GOOSEBERRY. Take what 
 quantity you please of red, rough, ripe goose- 
 berries ; take half their quantity of lump su- 
 gar; break them well, and boil them to- 
 gether for half an hour, or more if necessa- 
 ry. Put it into pots, and cover with paper. 
 
 JAM, Gooseberry, for Puddings. 
 Allow equal weight of the red rough goose- 
 berries, and of good brown sugar; gather 
 the fruit upon a dry day ; top and tail them, 
 and put a layer alternately of gooselierries 
 and of sugar into a preserving pan ; shake 
 it frequently, skim it well, and boil it till 
 
 the sirup jellies, which may be ascertained 
 by cooling a little in a saucer. Black and 
 red currants may be done in this way for 
 common use. 
 
 JAM, PEACH. Gather the peaches 
 when quite ripe, peel and stone them, put 
 tliem into a preserving-pan, and mash them 
 over the fire till hot; rub them through a 
 sieve, and add to a pound of pulp the same 
 weight of pounded loaf sugar, and half an 
 ounce of bitter almonds, blanched and pound- 
 ed ; let it boil ten or twelve minutes, stir 
 and skim it well. 
 
 JAM, RASPBERRY. Weigh equal 
 proportions of poimded loaf sugar and of 
 raspberries ; put the fruit into a preserving- 
 pan, and with a silver spoon bruise and 
 mash it well ; let boil six minutes ; add tlie 
 sugar, and stir it well with the fruit ; when 
 it boils, skim it, and boil it for fifteen min- 
 
 JAM, STRAWBERRY. GaUier the 
 scarlet strawberries when perfectly ripe, 
 bruise tliem well, and add the juice of other 
 strawberries ; take an equal weight of liunp 
 sugar, pound and sift it, stii- it thoroughly 
 into the fruit, and set it on a slow fire ; boil 
 it twenty minutes, taking off the scum as it 
 rises ; pour it into glasses, or jars, and when 
 cold, tie tliem down. 
 
 JAM, WHITE OR RED CURRANT. 
 
 Pick the fruit very nicely, and allow an 
 equal quantity of finely-pounded loaf sugar ; 
 put a layer of each altemately into a preserv- 
 ing pan, and boil for ten minutes ; or they 
 may be boiled the same length of time in 
 sugar previously clarified and boiled candy 
 high. 
 
 JAUNE MANGE. Boil an oimce of 
 isinglass in three-quarters of a pint of water 
 till melted ; strain it, then add the juice of 
 two Seville oranges, a quartei" of a pint of 
 white wine, the yolks of four eggs, beaten 
 and strained ; sugar according to taste ; stir 
 it over a gentle fire till it just boils up: when 
 cold, put it into a mould, taking care, if 
 there should happen to be any sediment, not 
 to pour it in. 
 
 JELLY. To a quart of the stock jelly 
 put half a pound of loaf sugar poiuided, a 
 stick or two of cinnamon broken into small 
 bits, the peel of a lemon, a pint of currant 
 wine, and one of Sherry or Tenerifte, and the 
 beaten whites of five eggs; put it all into a 
 nicely-cleaned saucepan, stir it gently till it 
 boils, and boil it for three or four minutes. 
 Pour it into a jelly -bag, witli a Ijasin or mug 
 placed underneath; run it immediate^ 
 
JEL 
 
 101 
 
 JEL 
 
 through the bag again into anothei' basin, 
 and repeat this till it begins to drop. It 
 will then be as transparent as possible, and 
 may be put into moulds or glasses. When 
 all has apparently dripped, pour about a 
 pint of boiling wat*^' into the bag, whioii 
 will produce a little thin jelly fit to drink ; 
 the stand with the jelly-bag should be plac- 
 ed near to the fire ; Sherry alone, or Tene- 
 rifFe, may be used. The jelly may be put 
 into quart bottles corked tightly, which will 
 make it keep good for some weeks ; place 
 the bottle in warm water when it is requir- 
 ed for use. 
 
 JELLY, ALE OR PORTER. For a 
 large shape, put to tlie prepared stock or 
 jelly, more than half a bottle of strong ale 
 or porter, a pound of loaf sugar, the peel of 
 one, and tlie juice of four large lemons, a 
 stick of cinnamon, and the beaten whites of 
 eight eggs; put it all into a saucepan, stir 
 it gently ; let it boil for fifteen minutes, and 
 pour it into a jelly-bag till it runs perfectly 
 clear. 
 
 JELLY, APPLE. (1) Pare, core, and 
 cut thirteen good apples into small bits ; as 
 they are cut, tiirow tliem into two quarts 
 of cold water; boil them in this, with the 
 peel of a lemon, till llie substance is ex- 
 tracted, and nearly half the liquor wasted ; 
 drain them through a hair sieve, and to a 
 pint of the liquid add one pound of loaf su- 
 gar pounded, the juice of one lemon, and the 
 beaten whites of one or two eggs ; put it into 
 a saucepan, stir it till it boils, take off the 
 Bcum, and let it boil till clear, and then pour 
 it into a mould. 
 
 JELLY, APPLE. (2) Pare and mince 
 three dozen of juicy acid apples, put them 
 into a pan, cover them with water, and boil 
 them till very soft; strain them through a 
 thin cloth or flannel bag ; allow a {Xtund of 
 loaf sugar to a pint of juice ; clarify and 
 boil it; add the apple juice, with the grated 
 peel and juice of six lemons; boil it for 
 twenty minutes ; take off die scum as it rises. 
 
 JELLY, APPLE. (3) Pare and cut 
 into slices eighteen large acid apples ; boil 
 them in as much water as will cover them; 
 when quite soft, dip a coarse cloth into hot 
 water, wring it dry, and stmin the apples 
 through it ; to each pint of juice allow four- 
 teen ounces of fine loaf sugar, clai-ify it, and 
 add, with the apple juice, the peel of a large 
 lemon ; boil it till it jellies, which may be in 
 twenty minutes; pick out the lemon peel, 
 and immediately put it into jars. 
 
 JELLY, APRICOT. Take eighteen fine 
 apricots, let tliem be of a nice red color, 
 9* 
 
 stone them, and cut them in pieces into some 
 simp, (usually made with twelve ounces of 
 sugar, but for apricot jelly it should be 
 rather moie liquid than for otlier jellies.) 
 When the fmit is done put it into a napkin, 
 to express out all the juice you possibly can ; 
 M'hich you must add to the sirup in which 
 the apricots have been done, and which has 
 been previously strained through a silk sieve, 
 and after having mixed with it a proper 
 quantity of isinglass to tliicken it, finish the 
 same as all other jellies. 
 
 JELLY, ARROW-ROOT. Steep for 
 some hours, in two table-spoonfuls of water, 
 the peel of a lemon, and tliree or foiu- bitter 
 almonds pounded; strain, and mix it with 
 three table-spoonfuls of arrow-root, the same 
 quantity of lemon-juice, and one of brandy; 
 sweeten, and stir it over the fire till quite 
 thick, and when quite cold, put it into jelly 
 glasses. 
 
 JELLY, BARBERRY. (1) Pick a 
 pint of barberries, and put them into a stew- 
 pan with boiling water, cover it close and 
 let it stand till neaily cold. Set on tlie fire 
 some clarified sugar with a little water, 
 (making a quart together ; ) when it begins 
 to boil, skim it well, put in the barberries, 
 let them boil an hour ; squeeze the juice of 
 three lemons through a sieve into a basin, to 
 tliis, pass tlie liquor from the barberries, and 
 then tile isinglass. 
 
 JELLY, BARBERRY. (2) Take some 
 very ripe barberries (what quantity you 
 please) and before you seed diem take two 
 thirds of their weight in sugar. Boil your 
 sugar, then put your barberries into it, and 
 give the whole a few boilings, then pass it 
 through a silk sieve into a pan, pressing the 
 barberries with a spoon to extract as much 
 juice as possible from them ; this done, put it 
 again over the fire, and when you jjerceive 
 it begins to form the scum, take it off and 
 pour it into pots. 
 
 JELLY, BREAD FOR AN INVALID. 
 Cut the crum of a penny roll into thin slices, 
 and toast them equally of a pale brown ; boil 
 them gently in a quart of water till it will 
 jelly, which may be known by putting a 
 little in a spoon to cool ; strain it upon a 
 bit of lemon-peel, and sweeten it with sugar. 
 A little wine may be added. 
 
 JELLY BROTH. See Broth. 
 
 JELLY, CALF'S FEET. (1) Take 
 four feet, slit them in two, take away 
 tlie fat from lietween the claws, wash them 
 well in lukewarm water; then put them in 
 a large stewpan, and cover them with water: 
 
JEL 
 
 102 
 
 JEL 
 
 when the liquor boils, skim it Avell, and let 
 it boil gently six or seven hours, that it may 
 be reduced to about two quarts ; then strain 
 it through a sieve, and skim off all the oily 
 substance which is on tlie surface of the 
 liquor. 
 
 If you are not in a hurry, it is better to 
 boil the calf's feet the day before you make 
 the jelly; as when die liquor is cold, the 
 oily part being at the top, and the other be- 
 ing firm, with pieces of kitchen paper appli- 
 ed to it, you may remove every particle of 
 the oily substance, witliout wasting any of 
 the liquor. 
 
 Put the liquor in a stewpan to melt, with 
 a pound of lump sugar, the peel of two lem- 
 ons, the juice of six, six whites and shells of 
 eggs beat together, and a bottle of Sherry or 
 Madeira; whisk the whole together until it is 
 on the boil ; dien put it by tlie side of the 
 stove, and let it simmer a quarter of an 
 hour ; strain it through a jelly-bag : what is 
 strained first must be poured into the bag 
 again, until it is as bright and as clear as 
 rock-water ; then put the jelly in moulds, to 
 be cold and firm : if the weather is too wai'm, 
 it requires some ice. 
 
 When it is wished to be very stiff, half an 
 ounce of isinglass may be added when tlie 
 wine is put in. 
 
 It may be flavored by the juice of various 
 fiiiits, spices, &c. and colored with saf- 
 firon, cochineal, red beet juice, spinage juice, 
 claret, &c. ; and it is sometimes made with 
 cherry brandy, or noyeau rouge, or Curacoa, 
 or essence of punch, instead of wine. 
 
 JELLY, CALF'S FEET. (2) Take 
 the fat and bones from eight feet, and soak 
 them in water for tliree or four hours; 
 then boil them in six quarts of water, skim- 
 ming often ; when reduced to a third, strain 
 and set it by to cool ; when cold, take every 
 particle of fat from the top, and remove 
 whatever may have settled at the bottom. 
 Dissolve it in an earthen pan, adding to it 
 two quarts of white wine, mace, cinnamon, 
 and ginger, or not, as you please. Beat up 
 the whites of twelve eggs with three pounds 
 of fine sugar, mix these with tlie jelly, boil it 
 gently, adding the juice of two lemons, and 
 then strain it for use. 
 
 JELLY, CHERRY. Take the stones 
 and stalks from two pounds of fine clear 
 ripe cherries ; mix them with a quarter of 
 a pound of red currants, from which the 
 seeds have been extracted; express the 
 juice from these ti-uits, filter and mix it with 
 three-quarters of a pound of clarified sugar, 
 and one ounce of isinglass. Finish the same 
 as Barberry jelly. 
 
 JELLY OF CURRANTS, GRAPE, 
 
 RASPBERRY, Are all made precisely 
 in the same manner. When the fruit is full 
 ri|5e, gather it on a dry day: as soon as it 
 is nicely picked, put it into a jar, and covei" 
 it down very close. 
 
 Set die jar in a saucepan about diree 
 parts filled with cold water ; put it on a gen- 
 tle fire, and let it simmer for about half an 
 hour. Take die pan fiom the fire, and pour 
 the contents of the jar into a jelly-bag: pass 
 the juice dirough a second timej do not 
 squeeze the bag. 
 
 To each pint of juice add a pound and a 
 half of very good lump sugar pounded ; when 
 it is dissolved, put it into a preserving-pan ; 
 set it on the fire, and boil gently ; stirring 
 and skimming it the whole time (about thir- 
 ty or forty minutes), i. e. till no more scum 
 rises, and it is perfectly clear and fine: 
 pour it while warm into pots; and when 
 cold, cover diem with paper wetted in 
 brandy. 
 
 Half a pint of this jelly, dissolved in a 
 pint of brandy or vinegar, will give you ex- 
 cellent currant or raspberry brandy or vine- 
 gar. 
 
 Obs. — Jellies from other fruits are made 
 in the same way, and cannot be preserved 
 in perfection without plenty of good sugar. 
 
 Those who wish jelly to tuni out very stiff, 
 dissolve isinglass in a little water, sti-ain 
 through a sieve, and add it in the proportion 
 of half an ounce to a pint of juice, and put 
 it in with the sugar. 
 
 The liest way is the cheapest. Jellies 
 made witli two small a proportion of sugar, 
 re(]uire boiling so long; there is much more 
 waste of juice and flavor by evaporation than 
 the due (juantity of sugar costs ; and they 
 neidier look nor taste half so well. 
 
 JELLY, DAMSON. To eight pounds 
 of damsons, put eight pounds of fine sugar, 
 and half a pint of water; boil lliem for half 
 an hour over a gentle fire, till the skins 
 break ; then take them off, and set them by 
 for an hour ; set them on the fire again, tor 
 half an hour more ; set them by again for 
 the same time; do so the third time; while 
 they stand ofl" the fire, put a weight upon 
 them to keep them under die sirup. The 
 last time, you must Ixul them till you per- 
 ceive they are of a vei-y high color in the 
 part where the skin is broken; then take 
 them oft", set them by to cool, and when they 
 are cold, drain oft' the sirup, and make the 
 jelly in thefidlowing manner: — Boil a quan- 
 tity of green apples, gi-een gooseberries, and 
 quince cxires, to a mash; then strain them 
 through a hair sieve. Take an equal quan- 
 tity of this jelly and the former sirup, and 
 lx)il them over a gentle fire together till they 
 jelly; skim it well, and while it is hot, put 
 i it into glasses or puts. 
 
JEL 
 
 103 
 
 JEL 
 
 JELLY FOR ENTRE3IETS. Harts- 
 horn, calPs feet, and isinglass, are the usual 
 materials used to coagulate sweet jellies ; of 
 these three, the latter is the best, as, when 
 properly clarified, (for which see isinglass), 
 it is tlie clearest, and has no unpleasant 
 flavor. 
 
 JELLY FRUIT. Clarify half a pound 
 of sugar, but the instant before it is quite 
 clear, put in a small quantity of cochineal ; 
 then strain, and mix with it an ounce of 
 clarified isinglass, and the juice of two lem- 
 ons; add to this tlie fnut of which your jel- 
 ly is to be composed; stir them togetiier 
 lightly, pour the jelly into a mould quickly, 
 and put the mould on ice. Observe that the 
 sugar and isinglass should be no more than 
 lukewarm when mixed together. These 
 jellies may lie made of any kind of fruit, or 
 the grated rinds of lemon, orange, or ce- 
 drats. 
 
 JELLY, GLOUCESTER. Take an 
 ounce of rice, the same of sago, pearl-barley, 
 hartshorn-shavings, and eringo root; sim- 
 mer with three pints of water, till reduced 
 to one pint, strain it. When cold it will be 
 a jelly ; when you use it, serve dissolved in 
 wine, milk, or broth. 
 
 JELLY, GRAPE. Take out the stones, 
 then mash the grapes with your hands, (they 
 must be ripe) then squeeze them through a 
 cloth to extract all the juice from them, and 
 boil and finish the same as cui*rant jelly. 
 Use half a pound of sugar to each pound of 
 fruit. 
 
 JELLY, HARTSHORN. Boil half a 
 pound of hartshorn shavings for three hours 
 and a half in four pints and a half of water ; 
 strain it through a bit of muslin, and stir in- 
 to it three ounces of dissolved isinglass ; if 
 large, the peel of one, if small, of two lem- 
 ons, and their juice, half the peel of an or- 
 ange, three parts of a tea-cupful of brandy, 
 and one of white wine ; sweeten with pound- 
 ed loaf sugar, and when lukewarm put it 
 into a saucepan with the beaten whites of 
 six eggs ; stir it, and let it boil for two min- 
 utes ; strain it through a jelly-bag two or 
 three times till perfectly clear. 
 
 JELLY, ORANGE. (l)Squeezethe juice 
 of eight oranges and six lemons, grate the 
 peel of half the fruit, and steep it in a pint 
 of cold water; mix it with the juice, tlu-ee- 
 quarters of a pound of loaf sugar, one ounce 
 and a quarter of isinglass, and the beaten 
 whites of seven eggs ; put it into a sauce- 
 pan, and stir it till it boils ; let it boil a few 
 minutes, and strain it through a jelly-bag till 
 clear ; put it into a mould or glasses. 
 
 JELLY, ORANGE. (2) Boil in a 
 pint of water one ounce and a (|uarter of 
 picked isindass, the rind of an orange cut 
 thin, a stick of cinnamon, a few corianders, 
 and three ounces of loaf sugar, till the isin- 
 glass is dissolved ; then squeeze two Seville 
 oranges or lemons, and enough oranges to 
 make a pint of juice : mix all togedier, and 
 strain it througli a tamis or lawn sieve into 
 a basin ; set it in a cold place for half an 
 hour ; pour it into another basin free from 
 sediment ; and when it begins to congeal, 
 fill your mould : when wanted, dip the 
 mould into lukewarm water ; turn it out on 
 a dish, and garnish with orange or lemon 
 cut in slices, and placed round, N. B. — A 
 few grains of saffron put in the water will 
 add much to its appearance. 
 
 JELLY, OX-HEEL. Slit them in two, 
 and take away the fat between the claws. 
 The proportion of water to each heel is 
 about a cjuart: let it simmer gently for eight 
 hours (keeping it clean skinmied); it will 
 make a pint and a half of strong jelly, which 
 is frequently used to make calf's feet jelly, 
 or to add to mock turtle and otlior soups. 
 
 JELLY, PEACH. Cut ten or twelve 
 peaches in halves, take out the stones and 
 peel them ; set a pint of smooth clarified su- 
 gar, diluted with water, on the fire ; when 
 it has boiled and been skimmed, put in tlie 
 peaches, the kernels should be broken and 
 put in with them ; let them boil, very gently 
 for ten minutes, then take out four or five 
 of the halves, and lay them on a plate to be 
 in readiness for garnishing the jelly;, let 
 the remainder of the peaches boil for ten 
 minutes longer; while they are boiling take 
 three lemons, cut ofiT the rind, squeeze tlie 
 juice through a silk sieve in a basin, pass 
 the li(iuor of the peaches into it, and then 
 the isinglass, running it through die sieve 
 two or three times, in order to mix it well; 
 fill die mould half full of jelly, and when set, 
 put in the peaches and a little more jelly, 
 and when that is set, fill up the mould. 
 The reason why the lemons are peeled be- 
 fore they are squeezed for this jelly is, that 
 the oil in the rind would rather spoil the fla- 
 vor of the jelly, than be any addition. 
 
 JELLY, QUINCE. Quinces for jelly 
 ought not to be quite ripe, they should, how- 
 ever, be of a fine yellow color ; take off" the 
 down which covers them, quarter, core, put 
 them into a saucepan, with water enough to 
 cover them ; set Uiem on the fire, and when 
 soft, lay the pieces on a sieve to di-ain, 
 pressing them very slightly; strain the li- 
 quor, and measure it; clarify, and boil to 
 casse an ecjual quantity of sugar ; then take 
 it off, add the liquor to it, stirring it well; 
 
JUI 
 
 104 
 
 KAV 
 
 when mixed, put it on tlie fii-e, still stirring; 
 as soon as the jelly spreads over the spoon, 
 and fells from it like treacle ; take it from 
 the fire, and when cold, pour it into pots. 
 
 JELLY, RASPBERRY. Take two 
 thirds of rasljerries, and one third red cur- 
 rants; pick them, piess the juioe through a 
 sieve into a pan, cover, and place it in a 
 cellai-, or any other cool place for three days ; 
 at the end of that time raise the thick skin 
 formed at the top, and pour the juice into 
 another vessel: weigh it, and put it, with 
 half the (juantity of siigtir, into a preserving 
 pan, set it on the fire ; a gi'eat deal of sciun 
 will rise at first, which must aU be taken off; 
 leave it on the fire for an hour; tlien j)oui' a 
 few drojis on a cold plate, if it cools of die 
 proper consistence for jellies, take it from 
 the fii-e and whilst hot pour it into pots ; 
 Let the jelly be quite cold before the pots are 
 covered. 
 
 ^ JELLY, RUM. Oarify, and boil to a 
 sirup, a pound of loaf sugar ; dissolve one 
 ounce of isinglass in half a pint of watei', 
 strain it through a sieve into tlie sirup when 
 it is half warm, and when nearly cold, stir 
 in a quart of white wine; mix it well, and 
 add one or two table-spoonfuls of old Ja- 
 maica rum, stir it for a few minutes, and 
 poui" it into a mould, or into glasses. 
 
 JELLY, STRAWBERRY. Put some 
 fresh-gathered strawberries into an eardien 
 pan, bruise them with a wooden s|X)on, add 
 a little cold water, and some linely-pounded 
 loa|" sugar. Li an hour or two, strain it 
 through a jelly-bag, and to a quart of the 
 juice add one ounce of isinglass, which has 
 been dissolved in half a pint of water, well- 
 skimmed, strained, and allowed to cool; mix 
 all well, and pour it into an earthen mould. 
 
 Raspljerry jell}', red currant jelly, and red 
 currants mixed with raspberries, may be 
 made exactly in the same manner ; and the 
 bright red color may be improved by mixing 
 in a little carmine or lake. When this kind 
 of jelly is to be made w'ith cherries, the fruit 
 should be boiled a few minutes in clarified 
 sugar, and when cold, the juice of one or two 
 lemons may be added with the isinglass. 
 
 A little lemon juice may be added to any 
 of the other jellies, in proportion to tlie acid- 
 ity of the fruit. 
 
 They may be iced by covering and sur- 
 rounding the mould widi ice, without any salt. 
 
 JUICE. The proportion of oranges 
 should be double that of lemons; the fruit 
 being selected free from decay, and wiped 
 dry, they are to be sciueezed, and the juice 
 strained through a sicive into an earthen pan; 
 to each pint, according to die acidity of the 
 
 fruit, a pound and a half, or a jx)und and 
 three-cjuarters, of double-refined sogar, bro- 
 ken small, is to be added. It must be stirred 
 and skimmed daily, till die sugar is well in- 
 corporated, or as long as the scum risee; 
 and when it has been a month in the pan, it 
 may be boiled. 
 
 JUICE OF FRESH FRUIT ICED. 
 Press through a sieve the juice of a pint of 
 pickled currants or ras])berries, add to it 
 four or five ounces of pounded loaf sugar, a 
 little lemon juice, and a pint of cream. It 
 may be whisked previous to freezing, and a 
 mixture of the juice may be used. 
 
 JULIENNE. This soup is composed 
 of carrots, turni|)s, leeks, onions, celery, let- 
 tuce, sorrel and chervil ; the I'oots are cut in 
 thin slips, about an inch long, the onions are 
 halved and then sliced; die lettuce suid sor- 
 rel chopped small; toss up the roots in a 
 little butter, when they are done, add the 
 lettuces, &c. moisten them widi broth, and 
 lx)il the \\ hole over a slow fire lor an hour or 
 more, if necessary; prepai'e some bread in 
 the usual way, and poui- die julieime over it. 
 
 JUMBLES. Mix one pound of fine 
 floui" w itli one pound of fine powder sugar, 
 make dicni into a light paste with whites of 
 cj^S^i well beaten ; add half a pint of cream, 
 half a pound of fresh butter, melted, and a 
 jwund of blanched almonds, pounded ; knead 
 them all togediei-, thoroughly, with a little 
 rose Mater, and cut out the jumbles into 
 whatever forms you diink proper; and eiih- 
 ei- bake them in a gentle o\eii, or fj-y them 
 in fi'esh butter; serve them in a dish, melt 
 fresh butter widi a sjioonfiil of mountain, and 
 strew fine sugar over the dish. 
 
 JUSTICE'S OIL\NGE SIRUP FOR 
 Punch or Puddings. Squeeze the or- 
 anges, and strain the juice from the pulp 
 into a large pot; boil it up with a pound and 
 a half of fine sugar to each pint of juice j 
 skim it well; let it stand till cold; then 
 botde it, and cork it well. Obs.— This 
 makes a fine, soft, mellow-flavored punch; 
 and, added to melted butter, is a good relish 
 to puddings. 
 
 K. 
 
 KAVIA. Take the hard roes of several 
 stiugeon, and lay diem in a tub of water; 
 take away all the fibres as jou would from 
 a calf's brains, then, widi a whisk, l>eat the 
 roes ia die water, shaking off fiom the whisk 
 whatever fibres may be adliering to it ; then 
 lay die roes on sieves for a short time ; after 
 
KID 
 
 105 
 
 KIS 
 
 which put them into fresh water again ; and 
 continue to whip them, and change tlie wa- 
 ter, until the roes are perfectly cleansed and 
 free fi'om fibre ; lay them on sieves to drain, 
 season tjiem well with salt and pepper; 
 wrap them in a coarse cloth, tying them up 
 like a ball, and let them drain thus till the 
 next day, when serve tliem with fried bi'ead, 
 and shallots chopped small. If they are to 
 be kept for sometime, put more salt to them. 
 
 KEBOBBED VEAL. See Veal. 
 
 KELLY'S SAUCE. See Sauce. 
 
 KERRY BUTTER MILK. Put six 
 quarts of butter-milk into a cheese cloth, 
 hang it in a cool place, and let the whey 
 drip from it for two or three days ; when it 
 is rather thick, put it into a basin, sweeten 
 it witli pounded loaf sugar, and add a glass 
 of brandy, or of sweet wine, and as much 
 I'aspberry jam, or sirup, as will color and 
 give it an agreeable flavor. Whisk it well 
 together, and serve it in a glass disli. 
 
 KETCHUP, ENGLISH. Peel ten 
 cloves of garlic, bruise them, and put them in- 
 to a quart of white wine vinegar ; take a quart 
 of white Port, put it on the fire, and when it 
 boils, put in twelve or fourteen anchovies, 
 washed and cut in pieces ; let them simmer 
 in the wine till they are dissolved; when 
 cold, put them to the vinegar; then take 
 half a pint of white wine, and put into it 
 some mace, some ginger sliced, a few cloves, 
 a spoonful of whole pepper bruised ; let them 
 boil a little; when almost cold, slice in a 
 whole nutmeg, and some lemon-peel, with 
 two or three spoonfuls of horse-radish ; add 
 it to the rest, stop it close, and stir it once 
 or twice a day. Keep it close stopped up. 
 
 See Mushroom Ketchup. 
 
 KEW MINCE. Cut a pound of meat 
 fi-om a leg of cold roasted mutton, and mince 
 it veiy finely, together with six ounces of 
 suet, mix with it three or four table-spoon- 
 fuls of crumbs of bread, the beaten yolks of 
 four eggs, one anchovy chopped, some pep- 
 per and salt, and half a pint of Port wine ; 
 put it into a caul of veal, and bake it in a 
 quick oven ; turn it out into a dish, and pour 
 some brown gravy over it; serve with it 
 venison sauce. When a veal caul is not to 
 be had, the mince may be done in a sauce- 
 pan. 
 
 KID. Kid is good eating when it is but 
 three or four months old, its flesh is then 
 delicate and tender, but is not used after it 
 has done sucking. To be good, it ought to 
 he fat and white. It is dressed iu tlie same 
 manner as lamb or fawn. 
 
 KIDNEYS. Cut them through die long 
 way, score them, and sprinkle them over 
 with a little pepper and salt; in order to 
 broil all over alike, and to keep tliem from 
 curling on the giidiron, rim a wire skewer 
 right through them. They must be broiled 
 over a clear fire, being careful to turn them 
 frequently till diey are done; they will take 
 about ten or twelve minutes broiling, provi- 
 ded diey are done over a brisk fire ; or, if 
 you choose, you may fry them in butter, and 
 make gravy for them in the pan (after the 
 kidneys are taken out), by putting in a tea- 
 spoonful of flour; as soon as it looks brown, 
 put in a sufficient quantity of water as will 
 make gravy; tliey will take five minutes 
 longer frying than broiling. Garnish with 
 fried parsley: you may improve them if you 
 think proper, by chopping a few parsley 
 leaves very fine, mix them with a bit of fresh 
 butter, and a little pepper and salt, and then 
 put some of this mixture over each kidney. 
 
 KISSES. (1) Put the whites of eight 
 eggs, and two spoonfuls of orange-flower 
 water, into a China basin, and whisk till 
 they become a firm froth, tlien add half a 
 pound of sifted sugar, stir it in with great 
 care by means of a spatula: tliat done, lay 
 small pieces of this mixture on white paper ; 
 make each drop about tlie size of a ratafia, 
 rather conical dian flat; place the paper 
 which contains them on a piece of wood 
 about an inch thick, and put Uiem in a vei-y 
 hot oven: watch them, and as soon as you 
 perceive they begin to look yellowish, take 
 them out, and detach tliem from the paper 
 with a knife as cautiously as possible, foF 
 they are very tender. Take a small spoon» 
 and with tlie end of it remove tlie moist part, 
 wiiich is at the bottom, so as to make them 
 a little hollow, and as you do diem, lay each 
 on die paper, the hollow side upwards ; put 
 them on the wood into the oven again for a 
 few minutes to dry ; when done, lay them 
 in boxes, and keep diem in a dry and warm 
 place. If diey are for table, fill the hollow 
 of each with a little whipped cream or rasp- 
 Ixjrry jam; put them together by couples, 
 the cream or jam inside ; place them in a 
 dish, and serve them as soon as possible. 
 
 KISSES. (2) One pound of the best loaf 
 sugar, powdered and sifted. The whites of 
 four eggs. Twelve drops of essence of lem- 
 on. A tea-cup of cunant jelly. Beat the 
 whites of four eggs till they stand alone. 
 Then beat in, gradually, the sugar, a tea- 
 spoonful at a time. Add the essence of lem- 
 on, and beat die whole veiy hard. Lay a 
 wet sheet of paper on the bottom of a square 
 tin pan. Drop on it, at equal distances, a 
 small tea-spoonfiil of stiff currant jelly. 
 With a large spoon, pile some of the beaten 
 
LAM 
 
 106 
 
 LAM 
 
 white of egg and sugar, on each lump of 
 jelly, so as to cover it entirely. Drop on 
 the mixture as evenly as possible, so as to 
 make the kisses of a round smooth shape. 
 Set tiiem in a cool oven, and as soon as 
 they are colored, they are done. Then take 
 them out and place them two bottoms to- 
 gether. Lay tiiem lightly on a sieve, and 
 dry them in a cool oven, till tlie two bot- 
 toms stick fast together, so as to form one 
 ball or oval. 
 
 KNUCKLES. See the several meats 
 to which they belong. 
 
 L. 
 
 LAMB. The fore quarter of lamb con- 
 sists of the shoulder, the neck, and the 
 breast together ; the hind quarter is the leg 
 and loin. There are also the head and 
 pluck, the fi-y or sweetbreads, skirts, lamb- 
 stones, and liver. In choosing the fore 
 quarter, the vein in the neck should be rud- 
 dy, or of a bluish color. In the hind quar- 
 ter, the knuckle should feel stiff, the kidney 
 small, and perfectly fresh. To keep it, the 
 joints should be carefully wiped every day, 
 and in warm weather, sprinkled with a lit- 
 tle jjepper. The fore quarter is the prime 
 joint, and should be roasted and basted 
 with butter; the gravy is made as for beef 
 or mutton. Mint sauce is served in a sauce 
 tureen, and half a lemon is sent to table 
 with it, the juice of which is squeezed upon 
 the ribs after the shoulder is cut off, and 
 tliey have been sprinkled- with salt. If tlie 
 joint weighs five pounds, it will require to 
 be roasted one hour; if ten pounds, one hour 
 and three-quarters. The hind quarter may 
 be roasted, or the leg of it boiled. The 
 loin is then cut into steaks, fried, and serv- 
 ed round it; the outside bones being cover- 
 ed with a fringe of fried parsley. A dish 
 of spinach is generally served with the 
 lamb. 
 
 LAMB, Is a delicate, and commonly 
 considered tender meat; but those who talk 
 of tender lamb, while they are tliinking of 
 ■the age of the animal, forget that even a 
 chicken must be kept a proper time after it 
 has been killed, or it will be tough picking. 
 To the usual accompaniments of roasted 
 meat, green mint sauce, and a salad, is com- 
 monly added; and some cooks, about five 
 minutes before it is done, sprinkle it with a 
 little fresh gathered and finely minced pars- 
 ley. Lamb, and all young meats, ought to be 
 tlioroughly done ; therefore do not take eidier 
 lamb or veal off the spit till you see it drop 
 white gravy. When green mint cannot be 
 
 got, mint vinegar is an acceptable substitute 
 lor it ; and crisp parsley on a side plate, is 
 an admirable accompaniment. 
 
 Hind-Quarter, Of eight pounds, will 
 tiike fiom an hour and three-tjuarters to two 
 hours: baste and froUi it. The leg and 
 the loin of lamb, when little, should be 
 roasted together; die former being lean, tlie 
 latter fat, and the gra\y is better preserved. 
 
 Fore-Quarter, Often pounds, about two 
 hours. It is a pretty general custom, when 
 you take off' the shoulder from the ribs, to 
 squeeze a Seville orange over diem, and 
 sprinkle them with a little jxjpper and salt. 
 This may as well be done by the cook be- 
 fore it comes to table ; some people are not 
 remarkably expert at dividing these joints 
 nicely. 
 
 Leg, Of five pounds, from an hour to an 
 hour and a half. 
 
 Shoulder, With a quick fire, an hour. 
 
 Ribs, About an hour to an hour and a 
 quarter : joint it nicely, crack tlie ribs across, 
 and divide them fi-om tlie brisket after it is 
 roasted. 
 
 Loin, An hour and a quarter. 
 
 Neck, An hour. qq 
 
 Breast, Three-quarters of an hour. 
 
 LAMB BREAST. Cut it into pieces, 
 and stew it in a weak stock, wiUi a glass 
 of Port wine ; add pepper and salt. When 
 it is perfectly tender, thicken the sauce 
 with butter and flour. Have ready cucum- 
 bers stewed in grav7, put diera over the 
 lamb bef()re serving. A breast of mutton 
 may be served in the same way. 
 
 LAMB CHOPS BROILED. Cut a 
 
 loin or best end of the neck into chops, flat- 
 ten tliem, and cut off the fat and skin ; rub 
 the gridiron with a little fat, and broil them 
 on a clear fire. Turn them with steak tongs, 
 till quite done. Serve Uiem hot. 
 
 LAMB CHOPS. Cut a neck or loin of 
 lamb into chops ; rub them over with the 
 beaten yolk of an egg ; dip diem into grated 
 bread, mixed with })lenty of chopped pars- 
 ley, and season witli lemon-peel, pepper, 
 and salt ; fry them a light brown in good 
 dripping; make a sauce with the trimmings, 
 and diicken the sauce with butter rolled in 
 flour; add a little lemon pickle and mush- 
 room ketchup. Gai-nish with fried parsley. 
 They may be served with or wiUiout tlie 
 gravy. 
 
 LAMB CUTLETS. Cut the cutlets off 
 die loin, into round bits; trim off the fat and 
 skin; dij) them into die beaten yolk of an 
 egg, and tlien into bread crumbs, mixed 
 with minced parsley, grated nutmeg, and 
 lemon-peel, pepper, and salt. Fry them a 
 
LAM 
 
 107 
 
 LAR 
 
 light bro\vn in clarified beef suet; dmin 
 them on the back of a sieve before die fire. 
 Serve them with melted butter with a little 
 lemon pickle in it, or a brown sauce tliick- 
 ened. Garnish with cut lemon. 
 
 LAMB DRESSED WITH RICE. 
 
 Half roast a small fore quarter of lamb ; cut 
 it into steaks, season them with a little salt 
 and {jepper ; lay them into a dish, and pour 
 in a little water. Boil a pound of rice 
 with a blade or two of mace ; strain it, and 
 stir in a good piece of fresh butter, and a 
 little salt, add also the greater part of the 
 yolks of four eggs beaten ; cover the lamb 
 with the rice, and with a feather put over 
 it the remainder of tlie beaten eggs. Bake 
 it in an oven till it has acquired a light 
 brown color. 
 
 LAMB FEET. Clean, well wash, and 
 blanch six lamb's feet; stew them, till they 
 become tender, in some white stock, with a 
 slice of lean ham, one onion, some parsley, 
 thyme, two blades of mace, a little whole 
 pepper, and a few mushrooms. Before 
 serving, strain the sauce ; thicken it with 
 flour and butter, and half a pint of cream ; 
 boil it a quarter of an hour, add the feet 
 and the juice of half a small lemon. Gar- 
 nish with sipf)ets of thin toasted bread, cut 
 into a three-cornered shape. 
 
 LAMB FRY. Fry it plain, or dip it 
 in an egg well beaten on a plate, and strew 
 some fine stale bread-crumbs over it; gar- 
 nish with crisp parsley. 
 
 LAMB, LEG OF, BOILED. It should 
 be boiled in a cloth, that it may look as 
 white as possible. Cut the loin in steaks, 
 dip them in egg, strew them over with 
 bread-crumbs, and fry them a nice brown, 
 serve them round the dish, and garnish >vitli 
 dried or fried parsley ; serve with spinacii 
 to eat witli it. 
 
 LAMB PIE, THE GERMAN WAY. 
 
 Cut a (Quarter of lamb into pieces, and lard 
 them with small lardons of bacon, season- 
 ed with salt, pepper, cloves, nutmeg, and a 
 bay-leaf; add fat bacon pounded, small on- 
 ions, nutmeg, and sweet herbs ; put these 
 into the pie, and let it bake for three hours; 
 when baked, cut it open, skim off all the 
 fat, pour in a ragout of oysters, and sei-ve 
 hot. 
 
 LAMB PIE, A SAVORY ONE. Cut 
 
 the meat into pieces, and season it with 
 pepper, salt, mace, cloves, and nutmeg, 
 finely beaten. Make a good puff paste 
 crust, put the meat into it, with a few 
 lamb stones and sweetbreads, seasoned 
 
 I the same as the meat. Then put in some 
 oysters and forcemeat balls, the yolks of 
 hard eggs, and llie tops of asparagus, about 
 two indies long, first boiled green. Put 
 butter all over the pie, put on the lid, and 
 let it bake for an hour and a half in a quick 
 oven. In tlie meantime, take a pint of gra- 
 vy, the oyster liquor, a gill of red wine, and 
 a little grated nutmeg. Mix all togetlier 
 with the yolks of two or diree eggs, finely 
 beaten, and keep stirring it tlie same way 
 all the time. When it boils, jx)ur it into 
 the pie, put on the lid again, and serve it to 
 table. 
 
 LAMB, TO ROAST OR BOIL. A 
 
 quarter of an hour is generally allowed to 
 each pound of meat ; a leg of lamb of five 
 pounds will therefore take an hour and a 
 quarter to roast or boil, the other joints in 
 die same proportion ; serve either with sa- 
 lad, pickles, brocoli, cauliflowers, string 
 beans, pease, potatoes, or cucumbers, mw 
 or stewed. 
 
 LAMB SHOULDER, GRILLED. Boil 
 it ; score it in chequers about an inch square, 
 i-ub it over with die yolk of an egg, pepper 
 and salt it, strew it with bread-crumbs and 
 dried parsley, or sweet herbs, and carbo- 
 nado, i. e. grill, i. e. broil it over a clear 
 fire, or put it in a Dutch oven till it is a 
 nice light brown ; send up some gravy with 
 it, or make a sauce for it of flour and water 
 well mixed together with an ounce of fresh 
 butter, a table-spoonful of mushroom or 
 walnut ketchup, and the juice of half a lem- 
 on. See Grill sauce. Breasts of lamb 
 are often done in the same way, and widi 
 mushroom or mutton sauce. 
 
 LAMB STEAKS FRIED. Fry Uiem 
 of die nicest brown; when served, dirow 
 over them a good quantity of crumbs of 
 bread fried, and crisped parsley. Or you 
 may season them and broil diem in buttered 
 papers, eidier with crumbs and herbs, or 
 without, according to taste. 
 
 LARD, HOG'S. The lard should be 
 carefully melted in a jar, put into a kettle 
 of water, and boiled ; run it into bladders 
 that have been particularly well cleaned. 
 It is best to have die bladders small, as the 
 lard will keep better, for, after the air 
 reaches it, it becomes rank. Whilst it is 
 melting, put in a sprig of rosemary. This 
 being a very useful article in frying fish, it 
 should be prepared with great care. Mix- 
 ed with batter, it makes a fine crust. 
 
 LARKS. These delicate litde birds are 
 in high season in November. When they 
 are thoroughly picked, gutted, and cleansed. 
 
LEI 
 
 108 
 
 LEM 
 
 truss tliem; do tliem over with the yolk of 
 egg, and then roll them in bread-crumbs ; 
 spit them on a lark spit, and fasten that on 
 to a laiger spit, ten or fifteen minutes will 
 be sufficient time to roast diem in before a 
 quick fire; whilst they are roasting, baste 
 them with fresh butter, and sprinkle diem 
 with bread-crumbs till diey are well cover- 
 ed with tliem. Fry some giated bread in 
 buttei-, set it to drain before die fire, that it 
 may harden. Serve tlie crumbs in the dish 
 under the larks, and garnish widi slices of 
 lemon. 
 
 LAVENDER DROPS. Fill a quart 
 bottle with the blossoms of lavender, and 
 
 Eur on it as much brandy as it will contain ; 
 it stand ten days, Uien strain it, and add 
 of nutmeg bniised, cloves, mace, and cochi- 
 neal, a quarter of an ounce each, and bot- 
 tle it for use. In nervous cases, a little may 
 be taken dropped on a bit of sugar ; and in 
 the beginning of a bowel complaint, a tea- 
 spoonful, taken in half a glass of pepper- 
 mint water, will often prove efficacious. 
 
 LAVENDER WATER. Put into a 
 large bottle, eight ounces of the best recti- 
 fied spirits of wine, three diachms of oil of 
 lavender, one drachm of essence of amber- 
 gris, and threepence-woith of musk ; cork 
 it tightly, and shake it well every day, for 
 a fortnight or three weeks. 
 
 LEAVES, TO GREEN, FOR ORNA- 
 MENTL\G FRUIT. Take small leaves 
 of a pear-tree, keep them close stopi)ed in 
 a pan of verjuice and water, give them a 
 boil in some sirup of apricots ; put them be- 
 tween two pieces of glass to dry ; smooth 
 and cut them into tlie shape of apiicot- 
 leaves (die leaves should be procured with 
 stallis) ; stick them about tlie api'icots or 
 any other preserved fruit; but the leaves 
 must be cut in the shape of die leaf Avhich 
 belongs to the fruit you ornament. 
 
 LEEKS. Leeks are most generally used 
 for soups, ragouts, and other made dishes, 
 tliey are very rarely brought to table ; in 
 which case dress them as follows: — Put 
 tliem into the stock-pot till about three parts 
 done ; then take them out, drain, and soak 
 them in vinegar seasoned with pepper, salt, 
 and cloves; drain them again, stuflf the 
 heai-ts with z. farce, dip them in batter, and 
 fi-y tliem. 
 
 LEIPZEGER PANCAKES. Beat well 
 the whites of four, and the yolks of eight 
 fresh eggs, and add, by degrees, half a 
 pound of pounded loaf sugar, a pint and a 
 half of sweet cream just warmed, half a 
 pound of clarified fresh butter, two table- 
 
 spoonfuls of fresh yeast, and a wine-glass full 
 of spirits of wine; then mix in as much sifted 
 flour as will make it into a thick batter; 
 let it rise for half an hour ; roll it out thin ; 
 cut it into rounds or oblong pieces, and lay 
 on them jam or marmalade ; double them, 
 and let them stand again to rise, and fry 
 them in boiling fresh lard or butter. 
 
 LEMONADE. To a gallon of spring 
 water add some cinnamon and cloves, plen- 
 ty of orange and plenty of lemon-juice, and 
 a bit of the peel of each; sweeten well with 
 loaf sugar, and whisk it with the whites of 
 six eggs, and the yolk of one ; give it a boil, 
 and Uien let it simmer for ten minutes; then 
 run it through a jelly-bag, and let it stand 
 till cold, beiore it is drank. 
 
 LEMONADE TRANSPARENT. The 
 peel of fourteen lemons having been soaked 
 in two quarts of water for two hours, their 
 juice, one pound and a half of sugar, and a 
 quart of white wine, are to be added ; a 
 quart of new milk, made boiling hot, is then 
 to be mixed widi it, and when it has stood 
 an hour, it is to be strained through a jelly- 
 bag till it runs cleai-. 
 
 LEMON BONBONS. Take two pounds 
 of the best lump sugar, clarify and boil it to 
 caramel; but just before it leaches diat 
 point, grate die rind of a lemon and put in 
 it; in the rneanwhile melt a little butter; 
 skim, and pour it ofl^ clear; take a spoonful 
 of this butter, and rub it with your hand over 
 a copperplate or marble slab, on \\ liich pour 
 die caramel sugar : then have a sword blade, 
 take an end in each hand, and impress lines 
 in die sugar about an inch apart ; then im- 
 press similar lines across the first, so as to 
 form small cakes ; this operation should be 
 performed as quickly as possible, lest the 
 sugar should cool before the whole is mark- 
 ed ; when however all is done, pass the 
 blade carefully between the sugar and die 
 slab, lay it on sheets of white paper, and 
 when perfectly cold, separate the bonbons, 
 and wrap each in paper; keep them in a 
 dry place. 
 
 LEMON BRANDY. Three quarts of 
 brandy being put into an earthen jar that is 
 fitted with a cover, a pound and diree-quar- 
 ters of fine loaf sugar, the diin parings of 
 six lemons, and the juice of twelve, are to 
 be added ; one quart of boiling milk is to be 
 poured over the mixture, which must be 
 stirred daily for eight days ; it is dien to be 
 run through a jelly-bag and bottled. 
 
 LEMON CHEESECAKES. Boil the 
 peel of two large lemons till they are quite 
 tender, and dien pound it well in a mortar. 
 
LEM 
 
 109 
 
 ■^^ 
 
 M 
 
 THE 
 
 with four or five ounces of loaf sugar, the 
 yolks of six eggs, lialf a pound of fre-sh but- 
 ter, and a little curd beaten fine: pound and 
 mix altogether, lay a rich putT paste in some 
 patty-pans, fill them half full, and bake them 
 carefully. 
 
 LExMON CHEESECAKES. Mix four 
 ounces of sifted lump sugar, and four ounces 
 of butter together, and gently melt it ; then 
 add the yolks of two, and the white of one 
 egg, the rind of three lemons shred fine, and 
 tlie juice of one lemon and a half, one sa- 
 vory biscuit, some blanched almonds, pound- 
 ed, tlu-ee spoonfuls of brandy; mix tlie 
 whole well together, and put it to paste 
 made with the following ingredients: eight 
 ounces of flour, six ounces of butter, two- 
 thirds of which must be mixed with the 
 flour first ; then wet it with six spoonfuls of 
 water, and roll in tlie remainder of the but- 
 ter. 
 
 LEMON CHIPS. Take large smooth- 
 rinded Malaga lemons ; race or cut off their 
 peel into chips with a small knife (this will 
 require some pmctice to do it properly) ', 
 throw them into salt and water till next 
 day; have ready a pan of boiling water, 
 throw diem in and boil them tender. Drain 
 them well: after having lain sometime in 
 water to cool, put them in an earthen pan, 
 pour over enough boiling clarified sugar to 
 cover them, and then let them lie two days ; 
 then strain the sirup, put more sugar, and 
 reduce it by boiling till the sirup is quite 
 thick; put in the chips, and simmer them a 
 few minutes, and set them by for two days: 
 repeat it once more ; let them be two days 
 longer, and they will be fit to candy, which 
 must be done as follows: take four pints of 
 clarified sugar, which will be sufficient for 
 six pounds of chips, boil it to the degree of 
 blown (which may be known by dipping the 
 skimmer into the sugar, and blowing strong- 
 ly through the holes of it; if little bladders 
 appear, it has attained that degree); and 
 when the chips are thoroughly drained and 
 wijied on a clean cloth, put them into the 
 sirup, stirring them about with the skimmer 
 till you see the sugar become white; then 
 take them out with two forks ; shake them 
 lightly into a wire sieve, and set them into 
 a stove, or in a warm place to dry. Orange 
 chips are done in the same way. 
 
 LEMON ESSENCE. Rasp your lem- 
 ons all round, very thin, and for every quar- 
 ter of a pound of rind, allow one pound of 
 sugar ; mix it well wiUi a large spaddle till 
 you find it is all of the same color, and that 
 the rind is well mixed ; put it into a stone 
 jar, and press it down as hard as you can ; 
 put a bladder over the paper you cover with, 
 10 
 
 T.T 
 
 and tie it WeHuJK tigliV; put itlyj' W ifi 
 a month's lime it will be fit for use". 
 
 LEMON JUICE TO PRESERVE. 
 Squeeze, and ,-t.;;ii; a pint of lemon-juice ; 
 put into a China basin one pound of double- 
 refined sugar finely pounded and sift^ed, add 
 the lemon-juice, and stir it with a silver 
 spoon till the sugar be perfectly dissolved. 
 Bottle it, and cork it tightly ; seal the cork, 
 or tie bladder over it, and keep it in a dry 
 cool place. 
 
 LEMON MARMALADE. AUow to a 
 pound of lemons eighteen ounces of fine 
 loaf sugar ; grate the rind of a few ; cut 
 them into half; squeeze and strain the juice ; 
 boil the skins in the same way as those 
 of the orange skins are done; scoop out the 
 pulp and white part; cut half into thin chips 
 or parings, and pound the other half in a 
 mortar ; pound the sugar, and pour over it 
 the juice ; stir, and let it boil for five min- 
 utes; skim it; take it off die fire; put in the 
 parings and the pounded skins ; boil it for 
 five minutes, then add the grated peel, and let 
 it boil for five minutes more ; take it off, and 
 stir it till half cold, before putting it into jars. 
 
 LEMON MINCE PIES. Squeeze out 
 the juice from a large lemon ; boil the out- 
 side till sufiiciently tender to beat to a mash, 
 add to it tliree large apples chopped, and 
 four ounces of suet, half a pound of currants, 
 four ounces of sugar ; put the juice of tlie 
 lemon, and add candied fruit, the same as 
 for other pies. Make a short crust, and fill 
 the patty-pans in the usual manner. 
 
 LEMON-PEEL ESSENCE. Wash 
 and brush clean the lemons; let them get 
 perfectly diy : take a lump of loaf sugar, and 
 rub them till all the yellow rind is taken up 
 by the sugar: scrape off the surface of the 
 sugar into a preserving pot, and press it 
 hard down ; cover it very close, and it will 
 keep for sometime. 
 
 LEMON-PEEL QUINTESSENCE. 
 Best oil of lemon, one drachm, strongest 
 rectified spirit, two ounces, introduced by 
 degi-ees till the spirit kills, and completely 
 mixes with the oil. This elegant prepara- 
 tion possesses all the delightful fragrance and 
 flavor of the freshest lemon-peel. 06s.— A 
 few drops on the sugar you make punch with 
 will instantly impregnate it witii as much 
 flavor as the troublesome and tedious meth- 
 od of grating the rind, or rubbing die sugar 
 on it. It will be found a superlative sub- 
 stitute for fiesli lemon-peel for every purpose 
 tliat it is used for: blancmange, jellies, cus- 
 tards, ice, negus, lemonade, and pies and pud- 
 dings, stuffings, soups, sauces, ragouts, &c. 
 
LEM 
 
 110 
 
 LEM 
 
 LEMON-PEEL TINCTURE. A very 
 easy and economical way of obtaining, and 
 preserving the flavor of lemon-peel, is lo fill 
 a wide-mouthed pint bottle half full of bran- 
 dy, or proof spirit ; and when you use a 
 lemon, paie the rind off veiy thin, and put 
 it into the brandy, &c.: in a fortnight it 
 will impregnate the spirit with the flavor 
 very strongly. 
 
 LEMON PICKLE. (1) Grate off a 
 little of the outer rind of two dozen of lem- 
 ons, divide tliem into four rather more than 
 half way down, leaving the bottom part 
 whole ; rub on them equally half a pound 
 of finely-beaten salt, spread them upon a 
 large dish, and put them into a cool oven. 
 When the juice has dried up, put them into 
 a stone jar, with an ounce of cloves and one 
 of mace finely beaten, one ounce of nutmeg 
 cut into thin slices, a quarter of an ounce of 
 cayenne, and four ounces of garlic peeled, 
 also half a pint of white mustard-seed bruis- 
 ed and tied in a bit of muslin. Pour over 
 the whole two quarts of boiling vinegar, 
 stop the jar closely, and let it stand for duee 
 months ; then strain it tlu-ough a hair sieve, 
 pressing it well through; let it stand till tlie 
 next day, pour off" the clear, and put it into 
 small bottles. Let the dregs stand covered 
 some days, when it will become fine. It 
 will keep good for years. When the lem- 
 ons are to be used as pickle, no straining is 
 necessaiy. 
 
 LEMON PICKLE. (2) Cut into quar- 
 ters, and pick out all the seeds of six mid- 
 dling sized lemons; })ut them into a jar, 
 strew over them two ounces of well beaten 
 salt ; cover the jar with a cloth and plate, 
 and let it stand three days ; then put to them 
 cloves and a quarter of an ounce of mace 
 beaten fine, one ounce of garlic or shallot, 
 two of mustard -seed bruised, and one nut- 
 meg sliced. Make a quart of vinegar Veil- 
 ing hot, and pour it over the ingredients ; 
 cover tlie jar, and in three or four days, close 
 it with a bung, and tie leather over it. It 
 will be fit for use in a week, and is an im- 
 provement to most sauces, fuid particularly 
 to fish sauce. 
 
 LEMON POSSET. Squeeze the juice 
 of two lemons into a China bowl, or small 
 deep dish, that will hold a quart ; sweeten 
 it like sii-up, add a little brandy ] boil one 
 pint of cream with a bit of orange-peel ; 
 take out the peel ; when cold, put the cream 
 into a teapot, pour it to tlie sirup, holding 
 it high. Make it the day before it is want- 
 ed. 
 
 LEMON PUDDING. See Pudding. 
 
 LEMON RINDS MARMALADE. 
 
 Having squeezed the juice from your lemons, 
 cut out all the white part, and put the rinds 
 into boiling water ; as soon as they begin to 
 soften, take them from the fire, and throw 
 them into cold water ; tlien lay them on a 
 sieve to drain, and make them into marma- 
 lade, in the same manner as apricots. Or- 
 ange rinds are done tliis way. 
 
 LEMON SPONGE. Boil half an . 
 of isinglass in a pint of water till dissolved; 
 strain it, and the following day add the 
 juice of two lemons, and the grated peel of 
 one ; rub through a hair sieve, into the isin- 
 glass a good quantity of raspberiy jam, that 
 has stood before the fire some time, and 
 whisk it all together till like a sponge; put 
 it into an eiuthen mould, set it in a cold 
 place for some hours, and turn it out. Any 
 ether sort of preserve may be used, and if 
 made with only orange or lemon-juice, 
 sweeten it with sugar, or make it with 
 orange jelly which may have been left the 
 day before. * 
 
 LEMON SYLLABUBS. Take a pint 
 of cream, a pint of white wine, the peel of 
 two lemons giated, and the juice ; sugar ac- 
 cording to taste; let it stand some time; 
 mill or whip it, lay the froth on a sieve ; put 
 the remainder into glasses, and lay on the 
 froth. They should be made the day before 
 they are wanted. If you should wish tliem 
 to taste very strong of the lemon, you must 
 make use of the juice of six lemons, and 
 nearly a pound of sugar; they will keep, 
 four or fise days. { 
 
 LEaiONS, SIRUP OF. Put a pint of ! 
 fresh lemon-juice to a pound and thi'ee- 
 quarters of lump sugar; dissolve it by a 
 gentle heat ; skim it till the surface is quite 
 clear; add an ounce of thin-cut lemon-peel; 
 let them simmer (very gently) together for a 
 few minutes, and run it through a flannel. 
 When cold, bottle and cork it closely, and 
 keep it in a cool place. Or, Dissolve a 
 quarter of an ounce (avoirdupois) of citric, 
 i. e. ciystallized lemon acid, in a pint of .;. 
 clarified sirup; flavor it witli the peel, or ; 
 dissolve the acid in equal parts of simple 
 sirup, and sirup of lemon-peel. ! 
 
 LEMON WATER. Put two slices of 
 thinly pared lemon into a teapot, a little bit 
 of the peel, and a bit of sugar, or a large 
 spoonful of capillaire ; pour in a pint of boil- 
 ing water, and stop it close for two hours. 
 
 LEMON CONSERVE, WHITE. Boil 
 a pound of the finest sugar j take it off" the 
 fire, and squeeze into it die juice of one 
 lemou at different times, stirring continually ; 
 
LOB 
 
 111 
 
 LOB 
 
 it will make the sugar as white as milk if 
 properly done ; take care not to drop any 
 of the seeds into it ; work it well together, 
 and when it is of an equal substance (which 
 prove in the same manner as any other jelly), 
 pour it into a mould. Lemon conserve is 
 made in the same manner, only diat the su- 
 gar must be boiled to a greater height than 
 for white lemon conserve. 
 
 LOBSTER. Buy these alive; the lob- 
 ster merchants sometimes keep them till 
 they are starved, before they boil them ; 
 they are then wateiy, have not half their 
 flavor, and like other persons that die of a 
 consumption, have lost the calf of their legs. 
 Choose lliose that (as an old cook says, are 
 "heavy and lively," and) are full of mo- 
 tion, which is the index of their freshness. 
 Those of the middle size are the best. Nev- 
 er take them when the shell is incrusted, 
 which is a sign they are old. The male 
 lobster is preferred to eat, and the female 
 (on account of the eggs) to make sauce of. 
 The hen lobster is distinguished by having a 
 broader tail than the male, and less claws. 
 Set on a pot, with water salted in propor- 
 tion of a table-spoonful of salt to a quart of 
 water; when the water boils, put it in, and 
 keep it boiling briskly from half an hour to 
 an hour, according to its size ; wipe all tlie 
 scum off it, and rub the shell with a very 
 little butter or sweet oil; break off the 
 great claws, crack them carefully in each 
 joint, so tliat tliey may not be shattered, 
 and yet come to pieces easily; cut the tail 
 4own the middle, and send up the body 
 whole. 
 
 LOBSTERS, to choose. The heaviest 
 are considered the best. When alive, if they 
 are quite fresh, the claws will have a strong 
 motion when you put your finger on the eyes 
 and press tiiem. When you buy tiieiii ready 
 boiled, try whether their tails are stiff and 
 pull up with a spring, otherwise that part 
 will \)e flabby. The cock-lobster may l)e 
 distinguished from the hen by the narrow 
 back part of the tail, and the two uppermost 
 fins within it are stiff and hard; but tliose 
 of the hen are soft, and the tail broader. 
 The male, diougli generally the smallest, has 
 the highest flavor, the flesh is fu-mer, and 
 the color when boiled is a deeper red. They 
 come in about April, and remain in season 
 till the oysters return. lien lobsters are 
 preferred for sauces, on account of their 
 coral. 
 
 lid*" Lobsters are sold in Boston, al- 
 ready boiled, and are always fresh and 
 good. 
 
 LOBSTER A LA BRAISE. Pound 
 the meat of a large lobster very fine with 
 
 two ounces of butter, and season it with 
 grated nutmeg, salt, and white pepper ; add 
 a little grated bread, beat up two eggs, re- 
 ser\'e part to put over the meat, and with 
 the rest make it up into the form of a lob- 
 ster. Pound the spawn and red part, and 
 spread it over it ; bake it a quarter of an 
 hour, and just before serving, lay over it the 
 tail and body shell, with tlie small claws put 
 underneath to resemble a lobster. 
 
 LOBSTERS OR CRABS, buttered. 
 Pick all the meat from the bodies of either, 
 mince it small, put it into a saucepan with 
 two or three table-spoonfuls of white wine, 
 one of lemon-pickle, and three or four of 
 rich gravy, a bit of butter, some salt, pep- 
 per, and grated nutmeg; thicken it with 
 the yolks of two eggs beat up, and when 
 quite hot, put it into the large shells ; gar- 
 nish them with an edging of bread toasted. 
 
 LOBSTER FRICASSEE. Break die 
 shells, and take out the meat carefully, cut 
 it and the red part, or coral, into pieces, 
 adding the spawn ; thicken with flour and 
 butter some white stock, with which the 
 shells have been boiled; season it with 
 white pepper, mace, and salt, put in tlie 
 lobster and heat it up ; just before serving, 
 add a little lemon-juice, or lemon pickle. 
 The stock may be made with the shells, only 
 boiled in a pint of water, with some white 
 pepper, salt, and a little mace, thickened 
 with cream, flour, and butter. 
 
 LOBSTER KETCHUP. Choose a 
 lobster that is full of spawn, and weighing 
 as nearly as possible three pounds ; pick out 
 all die meat, and pound the red j)iirt or co- 
 ral in a marble mortar; when coin|)letely 
 bruised, add the meat; jjound, and moisten 
 it with a little sherry wine, mix witli it a 
 tea-spoonful of cayenne, add the rest of the 
 bottle of sheny, and mix it thoroughly; put 
 it into two wide-mouthed Iwttles, and on 
 tlie top put a small table-sp<X)iiful of whole 
 pepper, cork the bottles lightly, and tie 
 diem over with leaUier. It will keep good 
 a twelve-month, and exactly resembles hesh 
 lobster sauce. Four table-spoonfuls heated 
 in melted butter are sufficient for a large 
 sauce-tureen. 
 
 LOBSTER PATTIES. (1) Pick the 
 meat and red berries out of a lobster, mince 
 them finely, add grated bread, chopped pars- 
 ley, and butter; season with grated nutmeg, 
 white pepper, and salt ; add a little vyhite 
 stock, cream, and a table-spoonful of white 
 wine, with a few clio|)ped oysters ; heat it 
 all together. Line the patty-pans with puff 
 paste; put into each a bit of crumb of bread, 
 about an inch squzu'e, wet the edge of the 
 
LOB 
 
 112 
 
 MAC 
 
 pauste, and cover it with another bit ; with 
 tlie paste-cutter mark it all round the rim, 
 and pare off the paste lound the edge of the 
 patty-pan. When baked, take off the top, 
 and with a knife take out the bread and a 
 little of the inside paste, put in the prepar- 
 ed loljster, lay on the top paste, and serve 
 them in a napkin. Another way to pre- 
 pare the paste. — Roll it out nearly half an 
 mch thick, and cut it into roun^ witli a 
 tin cutter, and, with one or two sizes less, 
 mark it in the middle alwut half dirough. 
 When diey are baked, carefully cut out die 
 inner top of tiie paste, and scoop out die in- 
 side, so as to make room for the mince, which 
 put in, and place on die top. 
 
 LOBSTER PATTIES. (2) Prepare the 
 patties as in the last i-eceipt. Take a hen 
 lobster already boiled; pick the meat from 
 the tail and claws, and chop it fine; put it 
 into a stewpan, with a little of the inside 
 spawn pounded in a mortal- till quite smooth, 
 an ounce of fresh butter, half a gill of cream, 
 and half a gill of veal consomme, cayenne 
 pepper, and salt, a tea-spoonfiil of essence 
 of anchovy, the same of lemon-juice, and a 
 table-spoonfiil of flour and water: stew it 
 five minutes. 
 
 LOBSTER PIE. (1) Boil the lobsters, 
 and cut the meat of the tail into four bits ; take 
 out die meat from die claws and bodies, 
 pound it in a mortar, add die soft part of 
 one lobster, and season with pepper, salt, 
 and nutmeg, add three table-spoonfuls of 
 vinegar ; melt half a pound of butter, and 
 mix it with the pounded meat and the crumb 
 of a slice of grated bread. Put puff paste 
 round the edge and side of the dish ; put in 
 the tail of the lobster, then a layer of oys- 
 ters with dieir liquor, and next the pounded 
 meat ; cover it with a puff paste, and bake 
 it till the paste be done. Before serving, 
 pour in some rich gravy, made of a little 
 weak stock in which the lobster shells have 
 been boiled, with an onion, pepper, and 
 salt, and which has been strained and thick- 
 ened with a bit of butter rolled in flour. 
 
 LOBSTER PIE. (2) Take out, a^ 
 whole as possible, the meat from the tail 
 and claws of two or three boiled lobsters ; 
 cut diem into slices, and season diem with 
 nutmeg, pepper, and salt. Make a force- 
 meat of the soft part of the bodies, together 
 with grated bread, some parsley, and one 
 anchovy minced, grated lemo)i-i>eel, mace, 
 salt, and pepper, the yolks of two hard- 
 l)oiled eggs bruist^l, and a bit <jf butter ; mix 
 it all together widi the well-beaten yolk of 
 an egg, and make it up into small balls. 
 Put the lobfeter into the pie-flish, and cover 
 it with the f6rcemeat balls, and hard-boiled 
 
 yolks of eggs; add more dian half a pint of 
 rich white stock, a glass of white wine, and 
 a table-spoonful of lemon-juice or vinegai*. 
 Cover it with puff paste, and bake it only 
 till die paste be done. 
 
 LOBSTER SAUCE. Choose a fine 
 spawny hen lobster; be sure it is fresh, pick 
 out the spawn and tlie red cx)ral into a mor- 
 tar, add to it half an ounce of butter, pound 
 it quite smooth, and rub it through a hair- 
 sieve with the back of a wooden spoon ; cut 
 the meat of die lobster into small squaies, or 
 pull it to pieces with a fork; put the pound- 
 ed spawn into as much melted butter as you 
 think will do, and sth* it together till it is 
 dioroughly mixed ; now put to it die meat 
 of the lobster, and warm it on the fire ; take 
 care it does not boil, which will spoil its 
 complexion, and its brilliant red color will 
 immediately fade. The above is a very easy 
 and excellent manner of making this sauce. 
 Some use strong beef or veal gravy instead 
 of melted butter, adding anchovy, cayenne, 
 ketchup, cavice, lemon-juice, or pickle, or 
 wine, &c. 
 
 LUNCHEON FOR AN INVALID. 
 
 Put bread crumbs and red cuirant, or any other 
 jelly, alternately into a tumbler, and when 
 nearly half full, fill it up with milk. 
 
 M. 
 
 MACARONI, TO MAKE. Beat four 
 eggs for eight or ten minutes, strain them, 
 and stir in flour till stiff enough to work into 
 a paste upon a marble, or stone slab ; add 
 flour till it be a stift' paste, and work it well ; 
 cut off a small bit at a time, roll it out as 
 diin as paper, and cut it with a paste-cut- 
 ter or knife into very narrow strips ; twist, 
 and lay them upon a clean cloth, in a dry, 
 warm place ; in a few hours it will be per- 
 fectly hard; put it into a box, with white 
 paper under and over it. It may be cut in- 
 to small stars, or circles, to be used for soup, 
 and does not require so much boiling as the 
 Italian Macaroni. 
 
 M A CARON I . The usual mode of dress- 
 ing it in England is by adding a white 
 sauce, and Parmesan or Cheshire cheese, 
 and burning it; but this makes a dish which 
 is proverbially unwholesome : its bad quali- 
 ties arise from the oiled and burnt cheese, 
 and the half-dressed flour and butter put into 
 the white sauce. Macaroni plain boiled, 
 and some ri(;li stock or portable soup added 
 to it ([uite hut, will be found a delicious dish 
 and very wholesome. Or, boil macaroni aa 
 directed in die receipt for the pudding, and 
 
MAC 
 
 113 
 
 MAC 
 
 it quite hot in a deep tureen, and let 
 each guest add grated Parmesan and cold 
 >. butter, or oiled butter served hot, and it is 
 ..excellent; this is die most common Italian 
 (mode of dressing it. Macaroni with cream, 
 (jdagar, and cinnamon, or a little varicelli 
 i«dded to the cream, makes a very nice sweet 
 I dish. See Macaroni Pudding for the 
 Boiling of it. 
 
 MACARONI DRESSED SWEET. 
 
 Boil two ounces of macaroni in a pint of 
 milk, witli a bit of lemon-peel, and a good 
 ,bit of cinnamon, till the pipes are swelled to 
 
 , their utmost size without breaking. Lay 
 them on a custard-dish, and pour a custard 
 
 i^.over them hot. Serve cold. 
 
 ^ MACARONI GRATIN. Lay fried 
 la-ead pretty cljsely round a dish, boil your 
 . macaroni in the usual way, and pour it into 
 . the dish ; smooth it all over, and strew biead- 
 , crumbs on it, then a pietty thick layer of 
 • grated Parmesan cheese ; drop a little melt- 
 ed butter on it, and color it with a salaman- 
 der. 
 
 MACARONI NAPOLITAINE. Boil 
 two pounds of macaroni for half an hoiu*, in 
 salt and water ; then put it into a cullender 
 to drain. Take three-quarters of a pound 
 of cheese grated; put a layer of macaroni, 
 in a deep dish or tureen, and on it a layer 
 of macaroni, the cheese, and so on, alter- 
 nately, till both are used up, making the 
 cheese the top; pour over it some gravy, 
 melt half a pound of fresh butter, and put on 
 the whole. Serve it very hot. 
 
 MACARONI TO SERVE. (1) Sim- 
 mer it in a little stock, with pounded mace 
 and salt. When quile tender, take it out 
 of the liquor, lay it in a dish, grate over it a 
 good deal of cheese, then over that put bread 
 grated very fine. Warm sotne butter with- 
 out oiling, and pour it from a boat through 
 a little earthen cullender all over the crums, 
 then put the dish in a Dutch oven to ro^ist 
 tile cheese, and brown the bread of a fine 
 color. The bread should be in separate 
 crums, and look light. 
 
 MACARONI TO SERVE. (2) Wash 
 it well, and simmer it in half milk, and 
 half of veal or mutton stock, till the 
 macaroni is tender; then take a spoonful 
 of the liquor, put to it the yolk of an egg, 
 beaten in a spoonful of cream ; just make it 
 hot to thicken, but do not let it boil; pour 
 it over the macaroni, and then grate fine old 
 cheese all over it, and add bits of butter; 
 brown it nicely with the salamander. 
 
 MACARONI STEWED. Boilaquar- 
 10* 
 
 ter of a pound of macaroni in beef stock, till 
 nearly done ; then strain it, and add a gill 
 of cream, two ounces of butter, a table sijoon- 
 ful of the essence of ham, three ounces of 
 gi-ated Parmesan cheese, and a little cayenne 
 pepper and salt ; mix them over a fire for 
 five minutes, then put it on a dish, strew 
 grated Parmesan cheese over it, smooth it 
 over witli a knife, and color it willi a very 
 hot salamander. 
 
 MACARONI TIMBALE. Take some 
 puff paste, roll it thin, and cut it into narrow 
 bands; twist each into a kind of cord, 
 which place round the insides of buttered 
 moulds, snail fashion ; fill each mould with 
 macaroni, cover the tops with grated bread, 
 and P;u:mesan cheese (equal quantities of 
 each) ; put the JHmhales into a warm oven, 
 and bake them three-quarters of an hour; 
 tlien turn them on a dish, and ser\'e. 
 
 MACAROONS. Take a pound of sweet 
 almonds blanched, and nicely pounded, add a 
 little rose-water to prevent their oiling; add 
 a pound of sifted sugar, then whisk the whites 
 of ten eggs to a solid froth, and atld to 
 the above ; beat all togedier for some time. 
 Have ready wafer paper on tin plates, drop 
 die mixture over it separately, die size of a 
 shilling, or smaller; sift over them a little 
 sugar, and bal^e them. 
 
 MACAROONS, SWEET. Blanch a 
 pound of sweet alinotids, throw diem into 
 cold water for a few minutes, lay them in a 
 napkin to dry, and leave them for twenty- 
 four hours ; at the end of Uiat time, pound 
 them, a handful at a time, adiling occasion- 
 ally some white of egg, till the whole is re- 
 duced to a fine paste ; ihan take two pounds 
 of the best lump sugar, pound and sift it, 
 then put it to the almoiids, with die grated 
 rinds of two lemons ; beat these ingredients 
 togedier in the mortar, adding one at a time, 
 as many eggs as you find necessary to moist- 
 en the paste, which should be thin, but not 
 too much so, ;is in that case it would lun ; 
 your paste being ready, take out a little in a 
 spoon, and lay the macaroons on sheets of 
 while paper either round or oval, as you 
 please; lay them at least an inch apart, be- 
 cause they spread in baking, and if put near- 
 er would touch. The whole of your paste 
 being used, place the sheets of paper on 
 tins in a moderate oven for tliree-quarters of 
 an hour. 
 
 This kind of cake requires gi-eat care and 
 attention ; it will be well therefore to take 
 notice of the following rules: 1. To mind 
 that the almonds are perfectly dry before 
 you begin to pound them. 2. Take great 
 care that not a particle of the yolk is mixed 
 with the white of egg, \\ hich would entirely 
 
MAC 
 
 114 
 
 MAI 
 
 spoil the color of the macaroons, and prevent 
 their rising in the oven ; to avoid this, open 
 each separately, and if perfectly fresh, divide 
 the yolk and white witli great care. 3. The 
 oven must be no more than moderately heat- 
 ed, nothing being more liable to bm-n than 
 almonds and sugar ; by the least negligence 
 in this respect, the surface would be burned, 
 whilst the inside would remain unbaked. 
 The best method to obviate any mischief of 
 this sort: — put two or three macaroons into 
 tlie oven to try it; leave them in the usual 
 time ; and if, when you take them out, they 
 ai-e of a clear yellow, the oven is properly 
 heated, and the whole of the macaroons may 
 then be put in. 
 
 MACKEREL, TO CHOOSE. Their 
 gills should be of a fine red, their eyes full, 
 and the whole fish stiff and bright; if the 
 gills are of a faint color, the fish limber and 
 wrinkled, tiiey are not fresh. 
 
 MACKEREL BAKED. Cut off their 
 heads, open them, and take out the roes and 
 clean them thoroughly ; rub them on die in- 
 side witli a little pepper and salt, put the 
 roes in again, season tliem (with a mixture 
 of powdered allspice, black pepper, and 
 salt, well rubbed together), and lay them 
 close in a baking-pan, cover them with equal 
 quantities of cold vinegar and water, tie 
 them down with strong white paper doubled, 
 and bake them for an hour in a slow oven. 
 They will keep for a fortnight. 
 
 MACKEREL BOILED. This fish 
 loses its life as soon as it leaves the sea, and 
 the fi-esher it is the better. Wash and clean 
 them thoroughly (the fishmongers seldom do 
 tliis sufficiently), put them into cold water 
 with a handful of salt in it ; let them rather 
 simmer than boil ; a small mackerel will be 
 done enough in about a quarter of an hour ; 
 when the eye starts and the tail splits, they 
 are done ; do not let them stand in the wa- 
 ter a moment after; they are so delicate 
 tluit the heat of the water will break them. 
 
 MACKEREL BROILED. Clean a fine 
 large mackerel, wi|)e it on a dry cloth, and 
 cut a long slit down the back ; lay it on a 
 clean gridiron, over a very clear, slow fire; 
 when it is dune on one side, turn it; be 
 careful that it does not burn; .send it up 
 with fennel sauce; mix well together a 
 little finely minced fennel and parsley, sea- 
 soned with a little {)epper and salt, a bit of 
 fresh butter, and when the mackerel are 
 i-eady for the table, put some of this into 
 each fish. 
 
 MACKEREL, THE GERMAN WAY. 
 
 Split them down the back, and season them 
 
 with pepper and salt; broil them, and serve 
 with the following sauce; pick and wash 
 some fennel, parsley, mint, tliyme, and green 
 onions ; but use only a small quantity of each. 
 Boil tliem tender in a little veal stock ; then 
 chop them up, and add to tliem some fresh 
 butter, the liquor they were boiled in, some 
 grated nutmeg, the juice of half a lemon, a 
 little cayenne pepper, and salt. Let it boil, 
 thicken it with fiour, and serve in a sauce 
 boat. 
 
 MADE DISHES. Be carefiil to trim 
 off all the skin, gristle, &c. that will not be 
 eaten ; and shape handsomely, and of even 
 thickness, the various articles which compose 
 your made dishes : this is sadly neglected by 
 common cooks. Only stew them till they 
 are just tender, and do not stew them to 
 rags; therefore, what you prepare the day 
 before it is to be eaten, do not dress quite 
 enough the first day. We have given re- 
 ceipts for the most easy and simple way to 
 make hashes, &c. Those who are well 
 skilled in culinary arts can dress up things 
 in this way, so as to be as agreeable as they 
 were the first time they were cooked. 
 
 MADELAINES. Take nine ounces of 
 powder-sugar, eight of flour, the yolks of 
 four and six whole eggs, two spoonfuls of 
 brandy, and a grain of salt; put these into 
 a saucepan, stirring continually, until the 
 paste thickens ; after which, stir only one 
 minute; clarify ten ounces of good fresh but- 
 ter, with which, butter a!x)ut two and thirty 
 madelaine moulds, pour the remainder of the 
 butter into your preparation; set it on a 
 gentle stove, stir till it begins to become li- 
 quid, take it off before it has time to get too 
 hot, put a little of this into each mould, and 
 bake them in a moderate oven. 
 
 MADELAINES IN SURPRISE. 
 
 Make them in the usual way; when cold, 
 cut a thin slice from the lx)ttom, take out 
 nearly all the inside; pound four ounces 
 of blanched filberts, mix them with ei^jht 
 spoonfuls of apricot marmalade, which 
 mixture put into the madelaines, and place 
 the slice taken from the bottom, and serve 
 them. 
 
 MAITRE D'HOTEL, COLD. Put a 
 
 quarter of a pound of butter into a saucepan, 
 with some parsley and shallots, minced small, 
 salt, whole pepper, and lemon-juice; mix 
 the whole together with a wooden spoon. 
 Pour the Maitre d' Hotel either over, un- 
 der, or into whatever meat or fish you in- 
 tend to serve. 
 
 MAITRE D'HOTEL MAIGRE. Put 
 
 into some nicely melted butter a little chop- 
 
MAT 
 
 115 
 
 MIL 
 
 ped parsley, salt, and lemon-juice; one or 
 two minced shallots may be added, and heat 
 it all together. 
 
 MARCHPANE ROYAL. Take a 
 pound of sweet almonds, blanch and throw 
 them into cold water, drain and pound them, 
 moistening with orange-flower and plain 
 water, but take care not to put too mucii at 
 once. The almonds being reduced to a 
 paste, put them into a preserving pan with 
 naif a pound of powder sugar, set tlie pan 
 on a moderate fire to dry the paste, which 
 will be sufficiently so if, when you touch it, 
 it na longer sticks to your finger, then take 
 it out and place it on a plate or wafer paper, 
 previously sprinkled with sugar: as soon as 
 It is cold cut it in pieces, which roll in your 
 hand to the size of your little finger; form 
 them into rings, and lay them on iron gi-at- 
 ings, glaze and put them into a brisk oven 
 to color. The above paste may also be em- 
 ployed as follows: roll it out and cut it in 
 half, spread over one piece apricot marma- 
 lade, or any other preserve you please, cover 
 it with the other piece, cut it into lozenges, 
 crescents, &c., according to your fancy, lay 
 them on the grating as above, glaze and co- 
 lor tliem in a quick oven. 
 
 MARJORAM, SWEET, TO PRE- 
 SERVE. Beat up very well the white of 
 an egg, then l^eat very fine and sift some 
 double-refined sugar; take some marjoram 
 and rub it on a glass that is quite clean, and 
 lay it in the form of the glass ; so do it with 
 tlie egg, then sear it with the sugar on it, and 
 lay it on paper to dry. 
 
 MARMALADE. Marmalade may l)e 
 composed of almost any fruits; the best, 
 however, for this purpose are, apricots, peach- 
 es, oranges, quinces, egg-plums, apples, &c. 
 They are usually made by boiling the fruit 
 and SMgar togetlier to a kind of pulp, stir- 
 ring them constantly whilst on the fire; it is 
 kept in pots, which must not be covered till 
 the marmalade is quite cold. The propor- 
 tion of sugai- is half a pound to each {)ound 
 of fruit. 
 
 ICJ^ 'See Names of Articles, of which 
 it is made. 
 
 MARROW BONES. Chop the bones 
 at each end so as to stand steady, then wash 
 them clean, saw them in halves, cover the 
 top with a fioui"ed cloth : boil them, and serve 
 with dry toast. 
 
 MATELOTE MEAT. Take beef, veal, 
 mutton, and pork, a large slice of each, and 
 a small one of leg of lamb ; cut them in small 
 pieces, wliich put into a saucepan with e(|ual 
 quantities of stock and champaign, salt and I 
 
 spices, cover them very close, and set them 
 on hot ashes for six hours, then serve it. 
 
 MEAD. (1) To every gallon of water 
 put four pounds of honey, boii it an hour. 
 Then put it into a tub with some yeast on a 
 toast ; cover it over. If it ferments well af- 
 ter tliree or four days, draw it oflT clear, and 
 put it into a cask, with one lemon sliced to 
 every gallon ; add a bottle of brandy to eve- 
 ry ten gallons. The rind of Seville oranges 
 cut very thin, suspended in the baiTel, is a 
 great improvement to the flavor. It is best 
 to wash the cask round with .part of the 
 brandy, before the liquor is put in. 
 
 MEAD. (2) One part of honey is dissolv- 
 ed in three parts of water, and boiled over a 
 moderate fire till it is reduced to two-tliirds 
 of the quantity. It is then skimmed, and 
 put into a barrel, which must be quite full; 
 it is allowed to subside for three or four ■ 
 days, and then drawn off* for use. To make 
 it from the combs from which honey has been 
 drained, they are to be beaten in warm wa- 
 ter, and after the liquor has subsided, it is 
 to be strained. The cottagers in Scodand 
 make an excellent beer by adding a little 
 yeast to the strained liquor, and allowing it 
 to ferment, for a few days, in a cask, and 
 tlien bottling it. 
 
 MEAT CAKES. Take whatever meat, 
 game, or poultry, you may chance to have, 
 (it is the better for being under-done) ; mince 
 it fine, adding a little fet bacon or ham, or 
 anchovy; season with a little pepper and 
 salt ; mix the whole well together, and make 
 it into small cakes, about tliree inches in 
 length, an inch and a half in width, and half 
 an inch thick ; fry them of a light brown, 
 and serve them with good giiivy ; or put it 
 into a mould, and boil or bake it. 
 
 MEAT, TO KEEP HOT. If your 
 meat is done tefore you are ready to serve, 
 take it uj), set the dish over a pan of boiling i 
 water, put a deep cover over it, so as not to 
 toucii tiie meat, and then put a clodi over 
 that. I'his way will not di-y up the gravy. 
 
 MILK COFFEE FOR BREAKFAST. 
 
 See Coffee. 
 
 MILK PUNCH. (1) Beat up two 
 
 eggs well, mix them in a quart of milk, su- 
 gar, nutmeg, and lemon-peel to yom- taste; 
 boil it gently, stirring it all the time till 
 thick enough; take it off' the fire a very few 
 minutes, then add to it a full quarter of a 
 pint of rum. It must be stirred all the time 
 tlie rum is pouring in, or it will not be good. 
 
 MILK PUNCH. (2) Eight pounds of re- 
 
MIN 
 
 116 
 
 MO^Oie 
 
 fined sugar are to be dissolved in the strain- 
 ed juice of three dozen lemons, and, when 
 quite settled, two gallons of brandy, and two 
 gallons and a half of cold water, are to be 
 added, and also the lemon-peel ; one gallon 
 of boiling milk being then poured over die 
 ingredients, they ai'e to stand closely covered 
 for twenty-four hours ; when, being skimmed 
 and run through a very thick jelly-bag, it 
 may be quickly bottled, and will be fit for 
 immediate use ; but it improves by keeping. 
 
 MINCED COLLOPS. This is a fa- 
 vorite Scotch dish ; few families ai-e with- 
 out it: it keeps well, and is always ready to 
 make an extra dish. Take beef, and chop 
 and mince it very small ; to \vhich add some 
 salt and pepper. Put this, in its raw state, 
 into small jars, and pour on die top some clar- 
 ified butter. When intended for use, put the 
 clarified butter into a fi-ying-pan, and slice 
 some onions into the pan, and fry them. Add 
 a little water to it, and then put in the minced 
 meat. Stew it well, and in a few minutes 
 it will be fit to serve up. See Collops. 
 
 MINCE MEAT. Two pounds of beef 
 suet, picked and chopped fine; two pounds 
 of apple, pared, cored, and minced ; three 
 pounds of currants, washed and f)icked ; one 
 pound of raisins, stoned and chopjied fine; 
 one pound of good moist sugar; half a pound 
 ofcitron, and one pound of candied lemon 
 and orange-peel, cut into thin slices; two 
 pounds of leady-dressed roast beef, free from 
 skin and gristle, and chopped fine ; two nut- 
 megs, grated; one ounce of salt, one of 
 ground ginger, half an ounce of coriander 
 seeds, half an ounce of allspice, half an oun«e 
 of cloves, all ground fine ; the juice of six 
 lemons, and their rinds grated ; half a pint 
 of brandy, and a pint of sweet wine. Mix 
 the suet, apples, currants, meat-plums, and 
 sweetmeats, well together in a large pan, 
 and strew in the spice by degrees; mix the 
 sugar, lemon-juice, wine, and brandy, and 
 pour it to the other ingredients, and stir it 
 M'ell together ; set it by in close-covered pans 
 in a cold place : when wanted, stir it up from 
 the bottom, and add half a glass of brandy 
 to the quantity you require. N. B.— The same 
 weight of tripe is frequently substituted for 
 the meat, and sometimes the yolks of eggs 
 boiled hard. Obs. — The lean side of a but- 
 tock, tlioroughly roasted, is generally chosen 
 for mince meat. 
 
 MINUTEN FLEISH. Cut from off a 
 leg of veal some slices as thin as the blade 
 of a knife, and about four inches long; sea- 
 son them with pepper and salt, lay them in- 
 to a deep dish, pour over them nearly half 
 a pint of white wine, let it stand for three 
 hours. Cover the bottom of a stewpan with 
 
 butter, dredge each slice of the veal on both^ 
 sides with fiour; add a little more wine, « 
 and as much good white stock as will cover 
 it, and the juice of a lemon. Cover the pan 
 closely, and let it simmer five minutes, and 
 serve it instantly, otlierwise it will become 
 hard. 
 
 MOCK ARRACK. Dissolve two scru- 
 pies of flowers of benjamin in a quart of 
 good mm, and it will immediately impart 
 to it the inviting fragrance of " Vauxhall 
 nectar." 
 
 MOCK BRAWN. See Brmon. - 
 
 MOCK CAPER SAUCE. See Sauce 
 Caper. 
 
 MOCK GOOSE, OR LEG OF PORK ' 
 
 ROASTED WITHOUT THE SkiN. ParboH i 
 
 it ; take off the skin, and dien put it down ' 
 to roast; baste it with butter, and make a ; 
 savory powder of finely minced, or dried ' 
 and powdered sage, ground black pcj^per, '. 
 salt, and some bread-crumbs, rubted togeth- . 
 er through a colander; you may add to this • 
 a little very finely minced onion; sprinkle it • 
 with this when it is almost roasted. Put I 
 half a pint of made gravy into the dish, and 
 goose stuffing under the knuckle skin; or 
 garnish the dish wiUi balls of it fried or ' 
 boiled. « 
 
 MOCK ICE. Of preserved strawber- 
 ries, raspberries, and red currant jelly, a 
 table-spoonful each ; rub it through a sieve, 
 with as much cream as will fill a shape ; 
 di.stolve three-quarters of an ounce of isin- 
 glass in half a pint of water; when almost 
 cold, mix it well widi the cream, put it into 
 a sha|)e, set it in a cool place, and turn it 
 out the following day. 
 
 MOCK TURTLE. See Soup Calf's 
 Head. 
 
 MOORFOWL, TO STEW. Truss; 
 them, keeping on their heads, but draw the ; 
 legs within the body; mix well some salt 
 and pepper with flour and a piece of hiuter, 
 and put a small bit into each bird; fry tliem 
 all over of a nice brown in butter. Brown 
 some butter and fiour, and add to it some good 
 gravy, seasoned with pepper, salt, mace, and 
 two cloves pounded; boil up the sauce, put 
 in the moorfovvl, and let tliem stew very 
 slowly till tender. A little before taking 
 them off tlie fire, add a table-spoonful of 
 mushroom ketchup. If the birds are old, 
 stew them for two hours; if young ones, 
 half that time. Cold roasted moorfowl are 
 dressed exactly in the same way only cut 
 into joints, and stev/ed very gently nearly as 
 
MUS 
 
 117 
 
 MUS 
 
 long. Half an hour before sei-ving, a small 
 Hea-cupful of Port wine should be added. 
 
 MUFFINS. (1) Take one pint of milk 
 quite warm, and a quarter of a pint of thick 
 small-beer yeast; strain tliem into a pan, and 
 add sufficient flour to make it like a batter ; 
 cover it over, and let it stand in a warm 
 place until it has risen ; tiien add a quarter 
 of a pint of warm milk, and one ounce of 
 butter rubbed in some flour quite fine ; mix 
 them well together : then add sufficient flour 
 to make it into dough, cover it over, and 
 let it stand half an hour ; tlien work it up 
 again, and break it into small pieces: roll 
 them up quite round, and cover tliem over 
 for a quarter of an hour; then bake them. 
 
 MUFFINS. (2) Mix two pounds of 
 lour with a cou|jle of eggs, two ounces of 
 outter melted in a pint of milk, and four or 
 five spoonfuls of yeast ; beat it thoroughly, 
 and set it to rise two or three hours. Bake 
 it on a hot liearth in flat cakes, and turn 
 them, when done, on one side. 
 
 MUFFINS. (3) Take two quarts of 
 warm water, two spoonfuls of yeast, dn-ee 
 pounds of flour; beat it well for half an 
 hour, and let it stand an hour or two ; bake 
 Uiem on an iron baking-stove (rub it well 
 over wiUi uiutton-suet as often as they are 
 laid on) ; as soon as they begin to color, 
 turn tliem; diey will be sufiiciently baked 
 when colored on botli sides. 
 
 MULLAGATAWNY. Boil slowly in 
 two quarts of water one pound of split peas, 
 half an ounce of butter, two onions sliced, a 
 little salt, cayenne, and two bladfcs of mace. 
 When the peas are tender, put in a large 
 fowl, cut in joints and skinned, two (juarts 
 of boiling water, or stock, if the soup be re- 
 quired very rich ; twenty minutes beibre 
 sending, add a large table spoonful of curi-y- 
 powder, and Uie same of ground rice. 
 
 rrj^ For Mullagatawny Soup, see 
 Soups. 
 
 MULLED WINE. Put into a pint of 
 Port witie two or three cloves and a bit of 
 cinnamon ; boil it for a few moments ; take 
 out die spice, sweeten it with loaf sugar, 
 and grate in a little nutmeg. Serve with a 
 slice of toasted bread, the crust pared off", 
 and cut into oblong pieces. The Port wine 
 is sometimes boiled widi a tliird of its quan- 
 tity of water. 
 
 MUSHROOMS, TO CHOOSE. The 
 
 mushrooms proper to be used in cookery 
 grow in tlie open pasture land, for those that 
 
 grow near or under trees, are poisonoas. 
 Tlie eatable mushrooms first appear very 
 small, and of a round form, on a little stalk. 
 They grow very rapidly, and tlie upper part 
 and stalk are white. As they increase in 
 size, the under part gradually opens, and 
 shows a fringed fur of a very fine salmon co- 
 lor, which continues more or less till the 
 mushroom has gained some size, and then 
 turns to a dark brown. These marks should 
 be attended to, and likewise whether the 
 skin can be easily parted from the edge 
 and middle, and whether they have a pleas- 
 ant smell. Those which are poisonous have 
 a yellow skin, and die under part has not die 
 clear flesh color of the real mushroom ; be- 
 sides which, they smell rank and disagreea<». 
 ble, and the fur is white or yellow. 
 
 MUSHROOM KETCHUP. If you 
 
 love good ketchup, gentle reader, make it 
 yourself, after the following directions, and 
 you will have a delicious relish for made- 
 dishes, ragouts, soups, sauces, or hashes. 
 
 Mushroom gravy approaches the nature 
 and flavor of meat gravy, more than any vege- 
 table juice, and is the superlative substitute 
 for it: in meagre soups and extempore gra- 
 vies, the chemistry of the kitchen has yet 
 contrived to agreeably awaken the palate, 
 and encourage die appetite. 
 
 A couple of quarts of double ketchup, 
 made according to the following receipt, 
 will save you some score pounds of meat, 
 besides a vast deal of time and trouble ; as it 
 will furnish, in a few minutes, as good sauce 
 as can be made for either fish, flesh, or fowl. 
 
 I believe the following is die best way of 
 extracting and preparing die essence of 
 mushrooms, so as to procure and preserve 
 their flavor for a considerable lengdi of time. 
 
 Look out for mushrooms from die begin- 
 ning of Septemlxjr. 
 
 Take care they are the right sort, and 
 fresh gathered. Full-grown flaps are to be 
 prefer) ed : put a layer of these at the bottom 
 of a deep cardien pan, and sprinkle them 
 with salt ; then another layer of mushrooms, 
 and some more salt on them ; and so on al- 
 ternately, salt and mushrooms: let them re- 
 main two or thi-ee hours, by which time the 
 salt will have penetrated the mushrooms, and 
 rendered them easy to break ; then pound 
 them in a mortar, or mash diem well with 
 your hands, and let them remain for a couple 
 of days, not longer, stirring them up, and 
 mashing them well each day ; then |X)ur them 
 into a stone jar, and to each quart add an 
 ounce and a half of whole black pepper, and 
 half an ounce of allspice; stop the jar very 
 close, and set it in a stewpan of b<jiling wa- 
 ter and keep it boiling for two hours at least. 
 Take out the jar, and pour the juice clear 
 
MUS 
 
 118 
 
 MUX 
 
 Scorn the settlings through a hair sieve (without 
 squeezing the mushrooms) into a clean stew- 
 pan; let it boil very gently for half an hour: 
 those who are for superlative ketchup, will 
 continue the boiling till the mushroom-juice 
 is reduced to half the quantity ; it may then 
 be called double cat-sup or dog-sup. 
 
 There are several advantages attending 
 this concentration ; it will keep much better, 
 and only half the quantity lie required; so 
 you can flavor sauce, &c. without thinning 
 It: neither is this an extravagant way of 
 making it, for merely the aqueous part is 
 evaporated ; skim it well, and pour it into a 
 clean dry jar, or jug ; cover it close, and let 
 it stand in a cool place till next day ; then 
 pour it off as gently as possible (so as not to 
 disturb die settlings at the bottom of the 
 jug,) through a tamis, or thick flannel bag, 
 till it is perfectly clear ; add a table-spoon- 
 fid of good bi*andy to each pint of ketchup, 
 and let it stand as l)efore; a fresh sediment 
 will be deposited, from which the ketchup is 
 to be quietly poured off, and bottled in pints 
 or half pints (which have been washed with 
 brandy or spirit): it is best to keep it in 
 such quantities as are soon used. 
 
 Take especial cai-e that it is closely cork- 
 ed, and sealed down, or dipped in bottle ce- 
 ment. 
 
 If kept in a cool, dry place, it may be 
 preserved for a long time ; but if it be badly 
 corked, and kept in a damp place, it will 
 soon spoil. 
 
 Examine it from time to time, by plac- 
 ing a strong light behind the neck of the 
 bottle, and if any pellicle appears about it, 
 boil it up again witli a few peppercoi-ns. 
 
 MUSHROOMS TO PICKLE. Cut 
 
 offtlie stalks, and wash clean, in cold wa- 
 ter, some small button mushrooms ; rub them 
 with a bit of flannel, then tlirow them into 
 fi'esh water, and when perfectly clean, put ! 
 them into a saucepan with fresh cold water, 
 and let them boil eight or ten minutes; strain i 
 off the water, lay them into riie folds of a i 
 clotli. Boil, in a quart of vinegar, a quarter 
 of an ounce of pepper, the same of allspice, ' 
 and two or three blades of mace, and a tea- '■. 
 spoonful of salt ; put the mushrooms into a j 
 jar, and when Uie vinegar is cold, pour it, I 
 with tlie spices, over them. 
 
 MUSHROOMS TO STEW. For a 
 
 good-sized dish, take a pint of white stock, 
 season it withsalt, pepper, and a little lemon 
 pickle, thicken it with a bit of butter rolled 
 in flour; cleanse and peel the mushrooms, 
 sprinkle them witli a very little salt, boil 
 them for tliree or four minutes, put them into 
 the gravy when it is hot, and stew them for 
 fifteen minutes, 
 
 MUSTARD. Mix (by degrees, by rub- 
 bing together in a moitar) the best flour of 
 mustard, with vinegar, white wine, or cold 
 water, in which scraped horseradish has 
 been boiled; rub it well together for at least 
 ten minutes, till it is perfectly smooth; it 
 will keep in a stone jar closely stopped, for a 
 fortnight : only put as much into tlie mustard- 
 pot as will be used in a day or two. Obs. — 
 Mustard is the best of all the stimulants that 
 are employed to give energy to the digestive 
 organs. Some opulent epicures mix it with 
 Sherry or Madeira wine, or distilled or fla- 
 vored vinegar, instead of horseradish water. 
 The French flavor tlieir mustard with Cham- 
 paigne and other wines, or with vinegar fla- 
 vored with capers, anchovies, tarragon, elder, 
 basil, burnet, garlic, eschalot, or celery, 
 warming it with cayenne, or the various 
 spices; sweet, savory, fine herbs, truffles, 
 ketchup, &c. &c., and seem to consider 
 mustard merely as a vehicle of flavoi-s. 
 
 MUSTARD IN A MINUTE. Mix 
 
 very gradually, and rubtogetlier in a mortar, 
 an ounce of flour of mustard, with three ta- 
 ble-spoonfuls of milk (cream is better), half 
 a tea-spoonful of salt, and die same of sugar;' 
 nib them well together till quite smooth. 
 Obs. — Mustard made in this manner is not 
 at all bitter, and is tlierefore instantly ready 
 for the table. 
 
 MUTTON. (1) The pipe that runs along 
 the bone of the inside of a chine of mutton 
 ought to be taken away; and if it is to be 
 kept any length of time, the part close round 
 the tail should be rublied with salt, previously 
 cutting out the kernel. 
 
 It is test for the butcher to take out the 
 kernel in die fat on the thick part of the leg, 
 as that is the part most likely to become 
 tainted. The chine and rib-bones should be 
 wiped every day ; and die bloody part of the 
 neck be cut off, in order to preserve it. The 
 brisket changes first in the breast; therefore, 
 if it is to be kept, it is l)est, should the 
 weather be hot, to rub it with a little salt. 
 
 When intended for roasting, it should hang 
 as long as it will keep, the hind quarter 
 particularly ; but not so long as to become 
 tainted. 
 
 Mutton for boiling ought not to liang 
 long, as it will prevent its looking of a good 
 color. 
 
 The greatest care should be taken to pre- 
 serve, by paper, the fet of what is roasted. 
 
 MUTTON. (2) As beef requires a large, 
 sound fire, mutton must have a brisk and 
 sharp one. If you wish to have mutton 
 tender, it should be hung almost as long as 
 it will keep; and tlien good eight-tooth, i. e. 
 
MUT 
 
 119 
 
 MUT 
 
 fi>ur years old mutton, is as good eating as 
 venison. 
 
 The leg, haunch, and saddle will be die 
 better for being hung up in a cool airy place 
 for four or five days at least; in temperate 
 weathei", a week ; in cold weaUier, ten days. 
 
 A Leg, of eight pounds, will take about 
 two hours: let it be well basted, and frothed. 
 
 A Chine or Saddle, (i. e. the two loins) 
 of ten or eleven pounds, two hours and a 
 half: it is the business of the butcher to take 
 off the skin and skewer it on again, to defend 
 the meat from extreme heat, and preserve its 
 succulence ; if tliis is neglected, tie a sheet 
 of paper over it (baste the strings you tie it 
 on with directly, or they will burn) : about a 
 quarter of an hour before you think it will 
 be done, take off the skin or paper, that it 
 may get a pale brown color, then baste it and 
 floui' it lightly to froth it. N. B. Desire 
 the butcher to cut off tlie flaps and the tail 
 and chump end, and trim away every part 
 that has not indisputable pretensions to be 
 eaten. This will reduce a saddle of eleven 
 pounds weight to about six or seven pounds. 
 
 A Shoulder, of seven pounds, an hour and 
 a half. Put the spit in close to the shank- 
 bone, and nin it along the blade-bone. 
 N.B. The blade-bone is a favorite luncheon 
 or supper relish, scored, peppered and salt- 
 ed, and broiled, or done in a Dutch oven. 
 
 A Loin, of mutton, from an hour and a 
 half to an hour and three-quarters. The 
 most elegant way of carving this, is to cut it 
 lengthwise, as you do a saddle. N. B. Spit 
 it on a skewer or lark spit, and tie that on 
 tlie common spit, and do not spoil the meat 
 by running the spit through die prime part 
 of it. 
 
 A Neck, about the same time as a loin. 
 It must be carefully jointed, or it is very 
 difficult to carve. The neck and breast are, 
 in small families, commonly roasted together ; 
 the cook will then crack the bones across the 
 middle before tliey are put down to roast : if 
 tliis is not done carefully, they are very 
 ti-oublesome to carve. Tell die cook, when 
 she takes it from the spit, to separate them 
 before she sends them to table. N. B. The 
 best way to spit this is to run iron skewers 
 across it, and put the spit between them. 
 
 A Breast, an hour and a quarter. 
 
 MUTTON, BAKED WITH POTA- 
 TOES. See Beef. 
 
 MUTTON BREAST COLLARED. 
 
 Bone it and take out all the gristles, 
 make a forcemeat with cmmbs of bread, 
 chopped parsley, a little lemon diyme, and 
 one anchovy minced; season with salt and 
 while pepper, nib the mutton over with an 
 egg beaten up, cover it with die fijrcemeat, 
 roll it fiimly ; tie it with tape, and put it on 
 
 in boiling water. Make a good gravy of 
 die bones, two onions, a bunch of pai-sley 
 and lemon thyme, pepper and salt; strain 
 and thicken it with a piece of butter mixed 
 with flour. A little before serving, add a 
 table-spoonful of vinegar and two of mush- 
 room ketchup. Garnish with cut lemon or 
 pickles. 
 
 MUTTON, BREAST, ROASTED 
 WITH Wine. Skin and bone a breast of 
 mutton, then roll it up in a collar like a 
 breast of veal. Roast it, and baste it with 
 half a pint of red wine ; when you have used 
 up all the wine, finish basting with butter. 
 Have a little good gravy in readiness, and 
 when the mutton is done, set it upright in a 
 dish, pour in the gravy, prepare sweet sauce 
 the same as for venison, and send it up to 
 table without any garnish. 
 
 MUTTON BROTH. Cut a neck of 
 mutton into pieces, preserving a handsome 
 piece to be served up in the tureen ; put all 
 into a stewpan with three quarts of cold beef 
 stock, or water, widi a litde oatmeal mixed 
 in it ; some turnips, onions, leeks, celei-y cut 
 in pieces, and a small bunch of diyme and 
 parsley. When it boils, skim it clean, and 
 when nearly done, take out the piece you in- 
 tend to serve in the tureen, and let the other 
 pieces stew till tender ; then have ready tur- 
 nips cut into dice, some leeks, celery, half a 
 cabbage, some parsley, all cut small, and 
 some marigolds ; wash them, strain the li- 
 quor off die meat, skim, it fiee from the fat, 
 add it to the ingredients with the piece of 
 mutton intended for the tureen, adding a lit- 
 tle pearl barley. Season with salt, simmer 
 all together till done, and serve with toasted 
 bread on a plate. 
 
 MUTTON CHOPS. Cut the chops 
 off a loin or the best end of a neck of mutton, 
 pare off die fat, dip them into a beaten egg, 
 and strew over them grated bread, seasoned 
 with pepper, salt, and some finely minced 
 parsley ; fry them in a little butter, and lay 
 them upon the back of a sieve to drain be- 
 fore the fire. Thicken about half a pint of 
 gravy, add a table-sjxionful of ketchup, and 
 one of Port wine ; put the gravy into the dish, 
 and lay in die chops; garnish with fried 
 parsley or cut lemon. 
 
 MUTTON CHOPS, BAKED. Cut a 
 
 neck of mutton into neat chops, season them 
 with salt and |iepper, butter a dish, lay in 
 the chops and pour over diem a batter made 
 of a quart of milk, four eggs beaten up, four 
 table-spoonfuls of flour, and a litde salt. An 
 hour will bake them. 
 
 MUTTON CHOPS MAINTENON. 
 
MUX 
 
 120 
 
 MUT 
 
 Cut a neck of mutton into chops ; beat them 
 flat with a rolling-pin. Bruise the yolk of 
 a hard-boiled egg, and mix with it chopped 
 sweet herbs, grated bread, nutmeg, salt, and 
 pepper. Cover the steaks with it, and put 
 each' into a piece of well-buttered paper ; 
 bi-oil them over a clear fire, turning them of- 
 ten. SerA'e them in the paper, or with a 
 browned gravy. 
 
 MUTTON CUTLETS. Cut into cut- 
 'lets a pound and a half of the thick part of 
 a leg of mutton, and beat them ; mix with 
 grated bread crumbs, some pepper, salt, and 
 finely chopped parsley, lemon tliyme, and 
 sweet marjoram. Rub the cutlets with melt- 
 ed butter, and cover them thickly witli the 
 prepared bread ; fi-y them for ten minutes in 
 butter, tlien put them into a saucepan with 
 gome good gravy thickened with flour and 
 butter, and simmer tliem for ten or fifteen 
 minutes. 
 
 MUTTON FILLET, STEWED. Put 
 
 a fillet of mutton or a piece of beef, weigh- 
 ing about seven pounds, into a slewpan, with 
 a caiTot, a turnip, an onion stuck with two 
 or three cloves, and a pint of water. Put 
 round the edge of the stewpan, a rim of 
 coarse paste, that the cover may be kept 
 very close, and let it stew gently, three hours 
 and a half; take out the meat, skim off the 
 fiit, strain and thicken the gi"avy, have ready 
 some boiled carrots and turnips cut to fancy, 
 add them to the gravy, make all hot, and 
 serve widi a garnish of sliced gherkins. 
 
 MUTTON CUTLETS Breaded and 
 Broiled. Trim and season yoiu- cutlets 
 witli pepper and salt, put tliem into some 
 melted butter, and when they have imbibed 
 a sufficient quantity of it, take them out, and 
 cover them completely widi biead crumbs ; 
 give the cutlets a good shape, and broil them 
 over a clear fire ; tiike care not to do the cut- 
 lets too much, to burn the bread. 
 
 MUTTON GRAVY FOR VENISON 
 OR Hare. The best gravy for venison is" 
 that made with the trimmings of the joint: 
 if this is all used, and you have no undressed 
 venison, cut a scrag of mutton in pieces ; 
 broil it a little brown ; then put it into a 
 clean stewpan, witli a quart of boiling wa- 
 ter ; cover it close, and let it simmer gently 
 for an hour: now uncover the stewpan, and 
 let it reduce to duree-quarters of a pint ; pcmr 
 it through a hair-sieve ; take the fat oflf, and 
 send it up in a boat. It is only to be sea- 
 soned witli a little salt, that it may not over- 
 power the natm*al flavor of the meat. 
 
 MUTTON, TO HASH. Cut tlie meat 
 into thin slices, trim off" all the sinews, skin. 
 
 gristle, &c. ; put in notliing but what is tD 
 be eaten, lay tliem on a plate, ready; pre- 
 pare youi- sauce to warm it in, pnt in the 
 meat, and let it simmer gently till it is thor- 
 oughly warm: do not let it boil, as that will 
 make the meat tough and hard, and it will 
 be a hai-sh, instead of a hash. Select for 
 your hash those parts of the joint that are 
 least done. Hashing is a mode of cookery 
 by no means suited to delicate stomachs: 
 unless tlie meat, be considerably under-done 
 the first time, a second dressing must spoil 
 it, for what is done enough the first time, 
 must Ije done too much tlie second. 
 
 MUTTON HAM, TO CURE. Cut si 
 
 hind quarter of good mutton into the shape of 
 a ham, pound one ounce of saltpeti'e, with 
 one pound of coai'se salt and a quarter of a 
 pound of brown sugar, rub the ham well with 
 this mixture, taking care to stuff" the hole of 
 the shank well with salt and sugar, and let 
 it lie a fortnight, rubbing it well with the 
 pickle e\ ery two or three days ; then take 
 it out and press it with a weight for one 
 day ; smoke it with saw-dust for ten or fif- 
 teen days, or hang it to di^ in the kitchen. 
 If tlie ham is to be boiled soon afi;er it has 
 been smoked, soak it one hour, and if it has 
 been smoked any length of time it will re- 
 quire to be soaked several hours. Put it on 
 in cold water, and boil it gently two hours. 
 It is eaten cold at breakfast, luncheon, or 
 supper. A mutton ham is sometimes cured 
 with the above quantity of salt and sugar, 
 with the addition of half an ounce of pepper, 
 a cjuarter of an ounce of cloves, and one nut- 
 meg. 
 
 MUTTON HAUNCH, LIKE VENI- 
 SON. Take a fat haunch of large fine 
 mutton, let it hang a week, then pound 
 one ounce of black, and one ounce of Jamai- 
 ca pepper, and nib them o\er the mutton, 
 pour a lx)ttle of Port wine over it, and let it 
 remain in this five days, basting it frequent- 
 ly every day with tlie liquor, take it out and 
 hang it up four or five days more, or as long 
 as the weather favors its keeping; wipe it 
 tliree or four times a day with a clean clolli. 
 While it is roasting baste it with tiie liquor 
 it was steeped in, adding a little more Port 
 wine; a quarter of an hour before taking it 
 from the fire, baste it well with butter, and 
 dredge flour over it to fi-oth it up. Serve it 
 with sauces as for venison. 
 
 MUTTON HAUNCH. It should 
 be kept as long as you can possibly keep it 
 sweet by tlie different modes ; and if neces- 
 sary, wash it with warm milk and water, 
 or vinegar, and when going to be dressed, be 
 carefid to wash it well, to prevent the out- 
 side fi'om having a bad flavor from keeping ; 
 
MUT 
 
 121 
 
 MUT 
 
 you put the haunch to the fire, fold it 
 in a paste of coarse flour, or strong paper ; 
 then set it a good distance from the fire, and 
 allow proportionable time for tlie paste ; do 
 not take it off, till about thirty -five or forty 
 minutes before serving tlie mutton, and then 
 baste continually ; bring the haunch nearer 
 before taking off the paste, and froth it up 
 in the same manner as venison. For g»"avy, 
 take a pound and a half of loin of mutton, 
 and simmer it in a pint of water till reduced 
 to half, use no seasoning but salt : brown it 
 with a little burnt sugar, and serve it up in 
 the dish ; but there should be a good deal of 
 gravy in the meat, for though long at the fire, 
 Sie covering and distance will prevent its 
 roasting out. Serve with currant-jlelly sauce. 
 
 MUTTON LEG. (1) If your leg 
 of mutton is roasted, sei-ve with onion or 
 currant-jelly sauce ; if it is boiled, serve with 
 caper-sauce and vegetables. In roasting or 
 boiling, a quarter of an hour is usually allow- 
 ed for each pound of meat. 
 
 MUTTON LEG. (2) Cut off the shank 
 bone, and trim the knuckle, put it into luke- 
 warm water for ten minutes, wash it clean, 
 cover it with cold water, and let it simmer 
 very gently, and skim it carefully. A leg 
 of nine pounds will take two and a half or 
 three hours, if you like it thoroughly done, 
 especially in very cold weather. 
 
 The tit-bits with an epicure are the 
 " knuckle," the kernel, called the "pope's 
 eye," and the " gentleman's" or " cramp 
 bone." 
 
 When mutton is very large, you may di- 
 vide it, and roast the fillet, i. e. the large 
 end, and boil the knuckle end; you may 
 also cut some fine cutlets off the thick end 
 of the leg, and so have two or three good 
 hot dinners. 
 
 The liquor the mutton is boiled in, you 
 may convert into good soup in five minutes, 
 and Scotch barley broth. Thus managed, a 
 leg of mutton is a most economical joint. 
 
 MUTTON LEG STUFFED. Make 
 a stuffing with a little beef-suet chopped, 
 some parsley, thyme, marjoram, a little 
 grated lemon, nutmeg grated, pepper, salt, 
 and a few bread crumte, mix all together 
 with the yolk of an egg, put this under the 
 skin in the thickest part of a leg of mutton 
 under the flap; then roast it, and serve it to 
 table witli some good gravy in the dish. 
 
 MUTTON LEG STUFFED with 
 Oysters. Make a forcemeat of beef-suet, 
 chopped small, the yolks of hard boiled eggs, 
 with lliree anchovies, a little onion, thyme, 
 savory, and some oysters, a dozen or fourteen, 
 
 all cut fine, some salt, pepper, grated nut- 
 meg, and crumbs of bread, mixed up with 
 raw eggs ; put this forcemeat under the skin 
 in the thickest part of the leg of mutton, un- 
 der the flap, and at the knuckle. For sauce, 
 some oyster-liquor, a little red wine, an an- 
 chovy, and some more oysters stewed, and 
 served under the mutton. 
 
 MUTTON LOIN. Roast it; some 
 people think it eats much better if cut length- 
 ways like a saddle. It may also be used 
 for steaks, pies, or broth, only taking care 
 to cut off as much fat as possible. 
 
 MUTTON LOIN, STEWED. Bone 
 
 and skin the loin; stew it in a pint of 
 water, turning it frequently; when the li- 
 quor is half wasted, take out the loin and 
 strain it, and when cold take off the fat^ 
 make a rich highly-seasoned gravy of the 
 bones; strain and mix it with the liquor the 
 loin was stewed in; add a tea-cupful of 
 Port wine, and some small mushrooms; 
 thicken the sauce with butter rolled in flour ; 
 put in the mutton, and heat it thoroughly; 
 garnish with pickles. 
 
 MUTTON NECK. (1) This joint is 
 particularly useful, as so many dishes may 
 be made of it. The bone ought to be cut 
 short. , 
 
 The best end of the neck may be boiled, 
 and served with turnips; or if you think 
 proper, it may be roasted, or dressed in 
 steaks, or made into pies, or used for harrico. 
 
 You may stew the scrags in brotli ; or in 
 a little water, with small onions, some pep- 
 percorns, and a small quantity of rice, all 
 served together. 
 
 When you wish that a neck which is to 
 be boiled should look particularly well, saw 
 down the chine bone, strip the ribs half 
 way down, and chop off the ends of the 
 bones, about four inches. 
 
 To make the fat look particularly white, 
 the skin should not be taken off till it is 
 boiled. 
 
 The fat belonging to the neck or loin of 
 mutton, if chopped very fine, makes a most 
 excellent suet-pudding, or crust for a meat 
 pie. 
 
 MUTTON NECK. (2) Put four or 
 five pounds of the best end of a neck (that 
 has been kept a few days) into as much cold 
 soft water as will cover it, and about two 
 inches over; let it simmer very slowly for 
 two hours: it will look most delicate if you 
 do not take off the skin till it has lieen boil- 
 
 MUTTON PASTY, to eat as nice 
 
MUX 
 
 122 
 
 MUX 
 
 AS Venison. Xake a fat loin of mutton, 
 and let it hang for several days, then bone it. 
 Beat it well witli a rolling pin; then rub 
 ten pounds of meat witli a quarter of a pound 
 of sugar, and pour over it one glass of Port, 
 and one glass of vinegar. Let it lie for five 
 days and five nights ; after which, wash and 
 wipe the meat veiy dry, and season it highly 
 with Jamaica pepper, nutmeg, and salt. 
 Lay it in your dish, and to ten pounds put 
 one pound of butter, spreading it over the 
 meat. Put a crust round tlie edge of the 
 dish, and cover with a thick crust, otherwise 
 it will be over-done before the meat is soak- 
 ed; it must be baked in a slow oven. 
 
 Put the bones in a pan in the oven, with 
 just sufficient water to co\er them, and one 
 glass of Port, a small quantity of pepper and 
 salt ; by this means you will have a little rich 
 gravy to add to the pasty when drawn. 
 
 Sugar gives a greater shortness to meat, 
 and a better flavor than salt, too gi-eat a 
 quantity of which hardens the meat. Sugar 
 is quite as great a preseivative. 
 
 MUTTON POLPETTES. Take the 
 lean of any joint of cold roasted mutton, pare 
 off the skin, and mince the meat with a little 
 grated bacon and calf's udder ; season with 
 salt, pepper, nutmeg, a few mushrooms and 
 parsley, shred small; unite them together 
 with the yolks of three eggs, and make twelve 
 or fifteen Ijalls of it, dip them in beaten egg, 
 and bread them twice. Flatten these balls 
 a little, and fry them in clarified butter; 
 when done, drain and place them on the 
 dish. Serve them witli tomato sauce or 
 
 MUTTON, ROLLED. Bone a slioulder 
 of mutton carefully, so as not to injure the 
 skin, cut all the meat from the skin, mince 
 it small, and season it highly vinth pepper, 
 nutmeg, and a clove, some parsley, lemon 
 thyme, sweet marjoiam chopped, and a 
 pounded onion, all well mixed, together with 
 a well-beaten yolk of an egg ; roll it up vei"y 
 tightly in the skin, tie it round, and bake it 
 in an oven two or three hours, according to 
 the size of the mutton. Make a gravy of the 
 bones and parings, season with an onion, 
 pepper and salt, strain and thicken it with 
 flour and butter; add vinegar, mushroom 
 ketchup, soy, and lemon pickle, a table- 
 spoonful of each, and a tea-cupfiil of Port 
 wine; garnish with forcemeat balls, made 
 of grai^ bread, and part of tlie mince. 
 
 MUTTON, COLD shoulder broil- 
 ed. A cold shoulder of roaist mutton ha v i ng 
 only a little meat upon the blade bone, may 
 be scored, sprinkled with pepper and salt, 
 then broiled and served with caper sauce 
 
 pom-ed over it, or melted butter, in which 
 should be mixed of mushroom ketchup, lemon 
 pickle, and Harvey sauce, a table-spoonful 
 each. 
 
 MUTTON SHOULDER, BAKED. 
 
 Lard a shoulder of mutton with streaked 
 bacon, put it into an earthen stewpan pro- 
 portioned to the size of the joint of meat, 
 with two or diree sliced onions, a parsnip 
 and carrot sliced, one clove of garlic, two 
 cloves, half a bay-leaf and some basil; add 
 about a quarter of a pint of water or stock 
 (stock is the best), some salt and pepper; 
 put tlie meat into tlie sauce, and set it in an 
 oveu. When the meat is done, strain the 
 sauce through a sieve, and skim it, squeezing 
 the vegetables so as to make a thickening for 
 your sauce: serve tlie sauce with the meat. 
 
 MUTTON SHOULDER, STEWED. 
 
 (1) Bone a shoulder of mutton with a 
 sharp knife, and fill the space with the fol- 
 lowing stuffing: — grated bread, minced suet, 
 parsley, pepper, salt, and nutmeg; bind 
 with the yolks of two eggs well beaten. 
 Sew or fasten it with small skewers; brown 
 it in a frying-pan with a bit of butter. Break 
 the bone, put it into a saucepan, with some 
 water, an onion, pepper, salt, and a bunch 
 of parsley; let it stew till the strength be 
 extracted; strain, and thicken it with butter 
 rolled in flour; put it, with the mutton, and 
 a glass of Port wine, into the saucepan ; cover 
 it closely, and let it stew gently for two 
 hours. Before serving, add two table-spoon- 
 fuls of mushroom ketchup. Gai-nish with 
 pickles. 
 
 MUTTON SHOULDER, STEW- 
 ED. (2) Bone and flatten a shoulder 
 of mutton, sprinkle over it pepper and 
 salt, roll it up tightly, bind it with tape, and 
 put it into a stewpan that will just hold it, 
 pour over it a well-seasoned gravy made with 
 the bones, cover the pan closely, and let it 
 stew till tender; before serving, take off tlie 
 tape, thicken the gravy, and garnish with 
 cut pickles. 
 
 MUTTON STEAKS, BROILED. Cut 
 
 some mutton steaks from the loin, about 
 half an inch thick, take off" the skin, and part 
 of the fat. As soon as the gridiron is hot, 
 rub it with a little suet, lay on the steaks 
 (place the gridiron over the fire aslant), turn 
 the steaks frequently; when they are done, 
 put them into a hot dish, rub them with 
 a little butter; slice a shallot very thin into 
 a spoonful of water, and pour it on them ; 
 add a little ketchup; garnish with scraped 
 hoise-radish, and pickles, and send them up 
 hot to table. 
 
NOU 
 
 OAT 
 
 N. 
 
 NAPLES CURD. Put into a quart of 
 new milk a stick of cinnamon, boil it a few 
 minutes, take out the cinnamon, and stir in 
 eight well-beaten eggs, and a table-spoonful 
 of white wine ; when it boils again, strain 
 it through a sieve; beat tlie curd in a basin, 
 togetlier with about half an ounce of butter, 
 two table-spoonfuls of orange-flower water, 
 and pounded sugar sufficient to sweeten it. 
 Put it into a mould for two hours before it 
 is sent to table. White wine, sugar, and 
 cream, may be mixed together, and poured 
 round the curd; or it may be served in a 
 sauce tureen. 
 
 NASTURTIUMS PICKLED. As soon 
 as the blossoms are off, gatlier the little 
 knobs; put them into cold water with some 
 salt; shift them once a day for three suc- 
 cessive days; make a cold pickle of white 
 wine vinegar, a little white wine, shallot, 
 pepper, cloves, mace, nutmeg, cut in quar- 
 ters, and horse-radish ; and put your nastur- 
 tium buds into this pickle. 
 
 NEAT'S TONGUE Fresh, in a 
 Plain Way. Lard a tongue with tolera- 
 ble-sized lardons, and boil it in broth, or in 
 water, with a few onions and roots ; when 
 it is done, peel it, and serve it with broth, 
 sprinkling it over witli a little pepper and 
 salt; it is also used without larding, and 
 being boiled fresh in tliis manner, is consid- 
 ered very good for mince-pie meat. 
 
 NEAT'S TONGUE, Roasted, a la 
 Francaise. Boil a neat's tongue, and 
 blanch it; set it by till it is cold, then cut a 
 hole in the under part, and take out the 
 meat, mince it with two or three hard eggs, 
 an apple, beef-suet, and bacon ; season with 
 salt, beaten ginger, and sweet herbs, shred 
 vei-y fine; stuff the tongue with this force- 
 meat ; then cover tlie end with a veal caul, 
 lard it with bacon, and roast it; serve with 
 a sauce made of gravy, butter, and the juice 
 of oranges, garnish tlie dish vvitli sliced lem- 
 on-peel and barberries. 
 
 NOUGAT. Blanch and wash a pound 
 of sweet almonds, and having drained tliem 
 well, cut each into five slips, which place in 
 a gentle oven to dry ; let tliem be all equally 
 colored of a clear yellow ; in the meantime, 
 put thi'ee-quarters of a pound of fine sugar 
 into a preserving pan, set it on a stove, stir- 
 ring with a wooden spoon until completely 
 dissolved ; then take the almonds out of the 
 oven, and whilst hot throw them into the li- 
 quid sugar; mix them togedier well. Have 
 ready a mould well oiled, of any shape you 
 
 think proper, in the interior of which place 
 tlie slips of almonds, by means of lemon-juice, 
 when tlie whole is covered, remove the mould 
 carefully, and serve the Nougat. 
 
 NOYAU. (1) Peaches and nectarines, 
 in equal quantities, are to be bruised, the 
 stones broken, and the kernels blanched and 
 bi-uised ; they are then to be put into a jar 
 in layers, one of fruit, one of kernels, and 
 one of pounded loaf sugar, and so on until 
 the jar is full; as much white brandy is 
 tlien to be added as the jar will hold ; and 
 when it has stood for five or six months, it 
 is to be filtered and bottled for use. 
 
 NOYAU. (2) One pound of bitter al- 
 monds, blanched, is to be steeped three 
 montlis in four quarts of large-still proof 
 whisky, or pale brandy, fom- pounds of^ loaf 
 sugar are then to be clarified and added to 
 the strained or filtered spirits, together witli 
 half a pint of pure honey. It is sometimes 
 colored with a little cochineal; and may 
 also be made, allowing three parts of sweet, 
 and one of bitter almonds. 
 
 NOYAU. (3) The rinds of three large 
 lemons, half a pound of pounded loaf sugar, 
 one ounce of bitter almonds, blanched and 
 pounded, ai-e to be mixed into a quart of the 
 'best Hollands gin, tliree table-spoonfuls of 
 boiling milk being added. It is to l)e put 
 into a bottle or jar, and shaken eveiy day 
 for three weeks, and then filtered through 
 chamois leather or blotting paper, when it 
 will be fit for use. 
 
 O. 
 
 OAT CAKES-^— are made in the same 
 manner as muffins, using gifted oatmeal in- 
 stead of flour, and three gallons of water in- 
 stead of two: pull the dough into pieces, 
 roll and finish tlie cakes as directed for muf- 
 fins. When wanted, pull tlie edges apait, 
 toast them nicely on bolli sides, and tlien 
 open them completely; lay in small pieces 
 of butter, until you have as much as you may 
 want; close them again, set them before 
 the fire, and cut each in halves or quarters. 
 
 OATMEAL PORRIDGE. Boil some 
 water in a saucepan with a little salt, and 
 stir oatmeal into it with a thevil ; when of 
 a proper thickness, let it boil for four or 
 five minutes, stirring it all the time ; then 
 pour it into a dish, and serve with it cream 
 or milk. It is sometimes eaten with porter 
 and sugar, or ale and sugar. If made witli 
 milk instead of water, less meal is requisite, 
 and it is then eaten with cold milk. 
 
OME 
 
 124 
 
 OME 
 
 OLIVE ROYALS. Boil one pound of 
 potatoes, and when nearly cold rub them 
 perfectly smootli with four ounces of flour 
 and one ounce of butter, and knead it to- 
 gether till it become a paste; roll it out 
 about a quarter of an inch thick, cut it into 
 rounds, and lay upon one side any sort of 
 cold roasted meat cut into thin small bits, 
 and seasoned with pepper and salt ; put a 
 very small bit of butter over it, wet the 
 edges, and close the paste in the form of a 
 half cii'cle. Fry them in boiling fresh drip- 
 ping of a light brown color ; lay them be- 
 fore tlie fire, on the back of a sieve, to drain. 
 Serve them with or widiout gravy in tlie 
 dish. For a change, mince the meat, and 
 season it as before directed. The potatoes 
 should be very mealy. 
 
 OLIVES. There are three sorts, the 
 Italian, Spanish, and French; they may 
 be had of various sizes and flavors, some 
 prefer one sort, and some another. 
 
 The fine salad oil is made from this fruit, 
 for which purpose they ai*e gathered ripe; 
 for pickling they are gathered when only 
 half ripe, at the latter end of June ; they are 
 put into fresh water to soak for a couple of 
 days ; after this they are thrown into lime- 
 water, in which some pearl-ashes have been 
 dissolved; in this liquor they lie for six and 
 thirty hours ; they are then put into water 
 which has had bay-salt dissolved in it; this 
 is the last preparation, and they are sent 
 over to us in this liquor ; they are naturally, 
 as they grow on tlie tree, extremely bitter, 
 and therefore all these preparations are nec- 
 essary to bring them to their fine flavor. To 
 some olives tliey add a small quantity of es- 
 sence of spices, which is an oil drawn fi-om 
 cloves, nutmeg, cinnamon, coriander, and 
 sweet fennel-seed disrtilled together for that 
 purpose ; twelve drops are sufficient for a 
 bushel of olives ; some prefer tliem flavored 
 with tliis 
 
 OMELETS AND VARIOUS WAYS 
 
 OF DRESSING Eggq. There is no dish 
 which may be considered as coming under 
 tlie denomination of a made dish of tlie sec- 
 ond order, which is so genei-ally eaten, if 
 good, as an omelet ; and no one is so often 
 badly dressed : it is a very faithfi^il assistant 
 in the construction of a dinner. 
 
 When you are taken by surprise, and wish 
 to make an appearance beyond what is pro- 
 vided for the every-day dinner, a little port- 
 able soup melted down, and some zest and a 
 few vegetables, will make a good broth ; a 
 pot of stewed veal warmed up ; an omelet ; 
 and some apple or lemon fritters, can all Vje 
 got ready at ten minutes notice, and with 
 tlie original foundation of a leg of mutton, or 
 a piece of beef, will make up a very good 
 
 dinner when company unexpectedly arrives, 
 in the countiy. 
 
 The great merit of an omelet is, that it 
 should not be greasy, burnt, nor too much 
 done : if too much of the white of the eggs is 
 left in, no art can prevent its being hard, if 
 it is done: to dress the omelet, the fire 
 should not be too hot, as it is an object to 
 have the whole substance heated, witliout 
 much browning die outside. 
 
 One of the great errors in cooking an om- 
 elet is, tiiat it is too thin ; consequently, in- 
 stead of feeling full and moist in tlie mouth, 
 the substance presented is little better than 
 a piece of fried leather: to get the omelet 
 thick is one of the great objects. With re- 
 spect to the flavors to be inti-oduced, these 
 are infinite; that which is most common, 
 however, is the best, viz. finely chopped 
 parsley, and chives or onions, or eschalots: 
 however, one made of a mixture of tarragon, 
 cher\'il, and parsley, is a veiy delicate va- 
 riety, omitting or adding the onion or chives. 
 Of the meat flavors, the veal kidney is the 
 most delicate, and is die most admired by 
 the'French: this should be cut in dice, and 
 should be dressed (boiled) before it is added; 
 in the same manner, ham and anchovies, 
 shred small, or tongue, will make a very 
 delicately flavored dish. 
 
 The olyection to an omelet is, tliat it is 
 too rich, which makes it advisable to eat 
 but a small quantity. An addition of some 
 finely mashed potatoes, about two table- 
 spoonfuls, to an omelet of six eggs, will 
 much lighten it. 
 
 Omelets are often served witli rich gra- 
 vy ; but, as a general principle, no substance 
 which has been fried should be served in gra- 
 vy, but accompanied by it, or Avliat ought to 
 eat diy and crisp, becomes soddened and 
 flat. 
 
 In the compounding the gravy, great care 
 should be taken that the flavor does not over- 
 come that of the omelet, a thing too little 
 attended to: a fine gravy, with a flavoring 
 of sweet herbs and onions, we think the test ; 
 some add a few drops of tarragon vinegar ; 
 but this is to be done only with great care : 
 gravies to omelets are in general thicken- 
 ed: til is should never be done with flour; 
 potato starch, or arrow-root, is the best. 
 
 Omelets should be filed in a small fry- 
 ing-pan made for that purpose, with a small 
 quantity of butter. The omelet's great 
 merit is to be thick, so as not to taste of the 
 outside ; therefore use only half die number 
 of whites that you do yolks of eggs: eveiy 
 care must be taken in fiying, even at the 
 risk of not having it quite set in the middle: 
 an omelet, which has so much vogue 
 abroad, is here, in general, a thin doubled- 
 up piece of leadier, and harder Uian soft 
 leather sometimes. The fact is, diat as nptucli 
 
OME 
 
 125 
 
 ONI 
 
 dfipfe must be bestowed on tlie frying, as 
 should be taken in poaching an egg. A 
 salamander is necessary to those who will 
 have the top brown ; but the kitchen shovel 
 may be substituted for it. 
 
 The following receipt is the basis of all 
 omelets, of which you may make an end- 
 less variety, by taking, instead of the pars- 
 ley and eschalot, a portion of sweet herbs, 
 or any of the articles used for making force- 
 meats, or any of the forcemeats. 
 
 Omelets are called by the name of what 
 is added to flavor them: a ham or tongue 
 omelet; an anchovy, or veal kidney ome- 
 let, &c. : these are prepared exactly in the 
 same way as in the first receipt, leaving out 
 tlie parsley and eschalot, and mincing the 
 ham or kidney very fine, &c., and adding 
 that in the place of them, and then pour over 
 them all sorts of thickened gravies, sauces, 
 &c. 
 
 OMELET. (1) Five or six eggs will 
 make a good-sized omelet; break them 
 into a basin, and beat them well with a fork ; 
 and add a salt-spoonful of salt ; have ready 
 chopped two drachms of onion, or three 
 drachms of parsley, a good clove of eschalot 
 minced very fine; beat it well up with the 
 eggs ; then take four ounces of fresh butter, 
 and break half of it into large bits, and put 
 it into the omelet, and the odier half into 
 a very clean frying-pan ; when it is melted, 
 pour in the omelet, and stir it with a spoon 
 till it begins to set, then turn it up all round 
 the edges, and when it is of a nice brown it 
 is done: the safest way to take it out is to 
 put a plate on the omelet, and turn the pan 
 upside-down: serve it on a hot dish; it 
 should never be done till just wanted. If 
 maigre, grated cheese, shrimjjs, or oysters. 
 If oysters, boil them four minutes, and take 
 away the beard and gristly part; they may 
 eitlier be put in whole, or cut in bits. 
 
 OMELET. (2) Beard and parboil twelve 
 or sixteen oysters, seasoning them with a few 
 peppercorns, strain and* chop them ; beat 
 well six eggs; parboil and mince a little 
 parsley ; mix all together, and season with a 
 little nutmeg, salt, and a table-spoonful of 
 mushroom ketchup; fry it lightly in three 
 ounces of butter, and hold it for a minute or 
 two before die fire. 
 
 OMELET. (3) Beat well and sti-ain six 
 eggs; add them to three ounces of butter 
 made hot ; mix in some grated ham, pepper, 
 salt, and nutmeg, some chopped chives and 
 parsley. Fry it of a light brown color. 
 
 OMELET. (4) Take as many eggs as 
 you Uiink proper (according to the size of 
 your omelet) break them into a basin with 
 11* 
 
 some salt and chopped parsley; then beat 
 them well, and season diem according to 
 taste, then have ready some onion chopped 
 small ; put some butter into a frj'ing-pan, and 
 when it is hot (but not to burn) put in your 
 chopped onion, giving them two or three 
 turns ; then add your eggs to it, and fry the 
 whole of a nice brown, you must only fry 
 one side. When done, turn it into a dish, 
 the fried side uppermost, and serve. 
 
 OMELET FRITTERS. Make two or 
 three thin omelets, adding a little sweet ba- 
 sil to the usual ingredients; cut them into 
 small pieces and roll them into the form of 
 olives; when cold, dip them into batter, or 
 enclose them in puff paste ; fi-y, and serve 
 them with fried parsley. 
 
 omi;let with kidney of 
 
 VEAL. To eight well-beaten eggs, add a 
 little salt, and part of a cold roasted kidney 
 of veal, finely minced; season with pepper, 
 and a little more salt ; melt in a frying-pan 
 one ounce and a half of butter, and pour in 
 the omelet ; fry it gently, and keep the mid- 
 dle part moist ; when done, roll it equally 
 upon a knife, and serve it very hot. 
 
 OMELET AU NATUREL. Break 
 eight or ten eggs into a pan, add fXipper, 
 salt, and a spoonful of cold water, beat them 
 up with a whisk; in the meantime put some 
 fresh butter into a frying-pan, when it is quite 
 melted and nearly boiling, put in the eggs, 
 &c. with a skimmer; as it is frying, take 
 up the edges, that they may be properly 
 done; when cooked, double it; serve very 
 hot. 
 
 ONIONS . The small round silver buttoh 
 onions, about as big as a nutmeg, make a 
 very nice pickle. Take off their top coats, 
 have ready a stewpan, three parts filled with 
 boiling water, into which put as many on- 
 ions as will cover the top: as soon as they 
 look clear, immediately take them up with 
 a spoon full of holes, and lay them on a cloth 
 three times folded, and cover them with 
 another till you have ready as many as you 
 wish: when they are quite dry, put them into 
 jars, and cover them with hot pickle, made 
 by infusing an ounce of horseradish, same of 
 allspice, and same of black pepper, and same 
 of salt, in a quart of best white-wine vinegar, 
 in a stone jar, on a trivet by the side of the 
 fire for three days, keeping it well closed ; 
 when cold, bung them down tight, and cover 
 them with bladder wetted with the pickle 
 and leather. 
 
 ONIONS STEWED. The large For- 
 tugal onions are the best: take off the top- 
 coats of half a dozen of these (taking care 
 
ONI 
 
 126 
 
 OR A 
 
 not to cut off the tops or tails too near, or 
 the onions will go to pieces), and put them 
 into a stewpan broad enough to hold them 
 witliout laying tliem atop of one anotlier, 
 and just cover them widi good bi'oth. Put 
 them over a slow fire, and let diem simmer 
 about two hours ; when you dish tliem, tui'n 
 them upside down, and pour the sauce over. 
 
 OPIIONS TO PICKLE. Peel tlie onions 
 till they look white; boil some strong salt 
 and water, and pour it over tliem ; let them 
 stand in this twenty-four hours, keep tlie 
 vessel closely covered to retain the steam: 
 after that time wipe the onions quite dry, 
 and when they are cold, pour boiling vinegar, 
 with ginger and white pepper over them. 
 Take care the vinegar always covers the 
 onions. 
 
 ONION SAUCE, YOUNG. Peel a 
 pint of button onions, and put them in water 
 till you want to put them on to boil; put 
 them into a stewpan, widi a quart of cold 
 water; let them boil till tender; they will 
 take (according to their size and age) fi'om 
 half an hour to an hour. 
 
 ONION SAUCE. Those who like the 
 full flavor of onions only cut off the strings 
 and tops (without peeling off any of die 
 skins), put them into salt and water, and let 
 them lie an hour ; then wash them, put them 
 into a kettle with plenty of water, and boil 
 them till they are tender: now skin them, 
 pass them through a colander, and mix a 
 little melted butter with them. N. B. Some 
 mix the pulp of apples, or turnips, with the 
 onions, others add mustard to them. 
 
 ONIONS, TO PREPARE FOR SEA- 
 SONING. Peel and mince three or four 
 onions, put them into a saucepan with a lit- 
 tle cold water. Let them boil till quite 
 tender, and dien pulp them with the liquor 
 through a hair sieve, when it may be mixed 
 with any made dishes or sauces. 
 
 ONIONS YOUNG, TO PICKLE. 
 
 Choose some of the small silver onions, put 
 them on in cold water, and when it is scald- 
 ing hot, take them out with an egg slice; 
 peel off the skins till they look white and 
 clear ; Liy them into the folds of a clodi. 
 Boil, in a quart of vinegar, half an ounce of 
 pepper, a quarter of an ounce of allspice, the 
 same of garlic, and one sliced nutmeg ; put 
 tlie onions into a jar, and pour over them 
 tlie boiling vinegar and spices. When cold, 
 tie leather over the jar. 
 
 ONIONS, PLAIN BOILED. Peel 
 them, and let them lie an hour in cold water, 
 put them on in boiling milk and water; 
 
 boil diem till tender, and sei-ve them with 
 melted butter poured over them. 
 
 ONIONS, ROAST. Roast them with 
 the skins on in a Dutch oven, that Uiey may 
 brown equally. They are eaten with cold 
 fresh butter, pepper, and salt. 
 
 ONIONS STEWED. (1) Take a dozen 
 of good-sized onions, jjeel and put them on 
 in the following sauce: — A pint of veal stock, 
 a bit of butter roiled in flour, a little pepper, 
 and salt. Stew them gently for an hour, 
 and, just before serving, mix in three table- 
 spoonfuls of cream. To stew them in a 
 brown sauce, take the same quantity of good 
 gravy. In a stewpan brown, of a light co- 
 lor, a little butter and flour, add die gravy 
 and onions, with a little pepper and salt, and 
 stew them gently one hour. 
 
 ONIONS STEWED. (2) Peel five or 
 six large onions, put them into a Dutch oven 
 or cheese-toaster to roast, turn tiiem frequent- 
 ly, and when they are well browned, put 
 tliem into a saucepan, widi a bone of dressed 
 or undressed meat, a slice of bacon, a little 
 water, and some pepper. Cover tlie pan 
 closely, and stew them till tender. Take 
 out the bone and ' die bacon ; thicken the 
 sauce with a bit of butter rolled in flour. 
 
 ORANGE BISCUITS. Take the grat- 
 ed rind of an orange, six fresh eggs, a 
 quarter of a pound of flour, and diree-tiuar- 
 ters of a pound of powder sugar ; put these 
 into a mortar, beat them to a paste, which 
 put into cases, and bake like other bis- 
 cuits. 
 
 ORANGE CHEESECAKES. To be 
 
 made in the same way, as lemon cheese- 
 cakes. 
 
 ORANGE CREAM, frothed. Make 
 a pint of cream very sweet, ]iut it over tlie 
 fire, let it just boil, put the juice of a large 
 orange into a small deep glass, having pre- 
 viously steeped a bit of orange-peel for a 
 short time in the juice, when the cream is 
 almost cold, pour it out of a tea-pot upon 
 the juice, holding it as high as possible. 
 
 ORANGE CUSTARD. Having boiled 
 the rind of a Seville orange very tender, beat 
 it in a mortar to a fine paste ; put to it the 
 juice of a Seville orange, a spoonful of the 
 best brandy, four ounces of loaf-sugar, and 
 the yolks of four eggs ; beat them all well 
 together ten minutes, then pour in by degrees 
 a pint of boiling cream; keep beating it till 
 cold ; put it into custard glasses. Set them 
 in an etuthen dish of hot water; let tliem 
 stand till they are set, dien stick presened 
 
ORA 
 
 127 
 
 OVE 
 
 orange, or orange chips, on the top. It may 
 be sei'ved hot or cold. 
 
 ORANGE FOOL. Take the juice of 
 six oranges, six eggs well beaten, a pint of 
 Cieam, a quarter of a pound of sugar, a little 
 cinnamon and nutmeg. Mix all well togeth- 
 61- ; stir it over a slow fire till thick, then put 
 in a small piece of butter, and keep stirring 
 it till cold. 
 
 ORANGE GINGERBREAD. Sift two 
 pounds and a quarter of fine flour, and add 
 to it a pound and three-quarters of treacle, 
 six ounces of candied orange-peel cut small, 
 three-quarters of a pound of moist sugar, one 
 ounce of ground ginger, and one ounce of 
 allspice: melt to an oil three-quarters of a 
 pound of butter ; mix the whole well togeth- 
 er, and lay it by for twelve horn's ; roll it 
 out witli as little flour as possible, about 
 half an inch thick ; cut it into pieces three 
 inches long and two wide ; mark them in 
 the form of checkers with the back of a 
 knife ; put tliem on a baking-plate about a 
 quarter of an inch apart ; iiib them over with 
 a brush dipped in tlie yolk of an egg beat up 
 with a tea-cupful of milk ; bake it in a cool 
 oven about a quarter of an hour : when done, 
 wash them slightly over again, divide the 
 pieces with a knife (as in baking they will 
 run together). 
 
 ORANGE LIQUOR. To each orange, 
 one quart of strong spirits, and one pound 
 and a quarter of loaf sugar are allowed; six 
 or eight cloves are to be stuck into each or- 
 ange, whicii, with the spirits and sugar, is 
 to be put into a jar. It must be closely cov- 
 ered, and stirred occasionally in the course 
 of two months ; it is then to be filtered through 
 blotting paper, and bottled for use. 
 
 Lemon liquor is made in the same way, 
 substituting lemons for oranges. Instead of 
 mixing the sugar with the other materials in 
 tlie jar, it may be made into a sirup, and 
 added to the strained or filtered spirits. 
 This, though more ti'oublesome, will be found 
 a better method. 
 
 ORANGE OR LEMON-PEEL, TO 
 
 MIX WITH STUFFING. Peel a Seville or- 
 ange, or lemon, veiy thin, taking off" only the 
 fine yellow rind (witliout any of the white); 
 pound it in a mortar with a bit of lump su- 
 gar; rub it well with the peel; by degrees 
 add a little of the forcemeat it is to be mixed 
 with: when it is well ground and blended 
 with this, mix it with the whole: there is 
 no other way of incorporating it so well. 
 Forcemeats, &c. are frequently spoiled by 
 the insufficient mixing of the ingredients. 
 
 ORANGE SIRUP, for Punch or 
 Pudding. See Justice. 
 
 ORANGEADE. (1) Squeeze the juice; 
 pour some, boiling water on the peel, aad 
 cover it closely ; boil water and sugar to a 
 thin sirup, and skim it; when all are cold, 
 mix the juice, the infusion, and the sirup, 
 with as much water as will make a rich 
 sherbet ; sti*ain it tlirough a jelly-bag. 
 
 ORANGEADE. (2) This refreshing 
 beverage is made precisely in the same man- 
 ner as lemonade, only substituting oranges 
 for lemons. 
 
 ORANGE PEEL RATAFIA. Put 
 
 the peels of a dozen thick-skinned oranges 
 into a gallon of brandy ; dissolve two pounds 
 of sugar in the juice of the oranges, add to it 
 the brandy, and having stirred them togeth- 
 er well, close the vessel tightly, and leave it 
 for a month ; then strain it off, and bottle it. 
 
 ORGEAT. (1) Pound very fine one 
 pound of Jordan, and one ounce' of bitter, 
 almonds, in a marble mortar, witli half a gill 
 of orange-flower water to keep tliem from 
 oiling; then mix with them one pint of 
 rose and one pint of spring-water ; rub it 
 through a tamis cloth or lawn sieve, till the 
 almonds are quite dry, which will reduce the 
 quantity to about a quart : have ready three 
 pints of clarified sugar or water, and boil it 
 to a crack (which may be known by dipping 
 your fingers into the sugar, and then into 
 cold water ; and if you find the sugar to crack 
 in moving your finger, it has boiled enough) ; 
 put in the almonds ; boil it one minute, and 
 when cold put it into small bottles close 
 corked; a table-spoonful of which will be 
 sufficient for a tumbler of water: shake the 
 bottle before using. If the orgeat is for 
 present use, the almonds may be pounded as 
 above, and mixed with one quart of water, 
 one quart of milk, a pint of capillaire or 
 clarified sugar, rubbed through a tamis or 
 fine sieve, and put into decantere for use. 
 
 ORGEAT. (2) A quarter of a pound 
 of sweet, and one ounce and a half of bitter 
 almonds, are to be blanched, and thrown into 
 cold water, then Ixjaten in a marble mortar, 
 and moistened occasionally with a spoonful 
 of milk, to prevent their oiling ; three pints 
 of milk are then to be mixed gradually with 
 them, and after being sweetened, boiled, 
 stirred till cold, and strained, a glass of wine 
 or brandy is to be added. 
 
 OVEN, DIRECTIONS FOR THE. 
 
 Be very careful to keep your oven clean, and 
 that there are no remains of sugar or fat tliat 
 may have run over from any thing that has 
 been baking. Puff-pastes recjuire a mode- 
 rately hot oven, but not too hot, or it will 
 spoil tlie shape and turn it over ; tart-paste, 
 
oxc 
 
 1^8 
 
 OYS 
 
 ©r short crust, requires a slower oven ; pe- 
 tits-bhoux, one still slower; but for raised 
 pies, let it be as hot as for puff-paste at first, 
 and well closed, so that the pies may not fall. 
 Therefore, when you give a dinner where 
 paste is necessary, endeavor to make it in 
 the morning; heat your oven first for the 
 puff-paste, which must be baked the fii-st; 
 tlien let the oven go gradually down, and 
 bake your pastes in rotation, as the heat 
 fells. Savoy biscuits require a cool oven, 
 and, by degrees, raise the heat as tlie biscuits 
 are baking. For souffles or light puddings, 
 have a gentle oven, and contrive so as to have 
 them ready by the time they are wanted, or 
 they will fall. The greatest attention should 
 also be paid in heating the oven for baking 
 cakes, particularly for those that are large. 
 If not pretty quick, the batter will not rise. 
 Should you fear its catching by being too 
 quick, put paper over the cake to prevent its 
 being burnt. If not long enough lighted to 
 have a body of heat, or if it has become 
 slack, tlie cake will be heavy. To know 
 when it is soaked, take a broad bladed 
 knife that is very bright, and plimge it into 
 tlie centre ; draw it instantly out, and if the 
 least stickiness adheres, put the cake imme- 
 diately in, and shut up the oven. If the heat 
 was sufficient to raise, but not to soak, fresh 
 fuel must be quickly put in, and the cakes 
 kept hot until the oven is fit to finish the 
 soaking, but this must only be done in a case 
 of great emergency;- for those who are em- 
 ployed ought to be particularly careful that 
 no mistake occur from negligence. 
 
 OX-CHEEK STEWED. Prepare this 
 the day before it is to be eaten ; clean it, and 
 put it into soft water just warm ; let it lie 
 tliree or four hours, then put it into cold wa- 
 ter, and let it soak all night; next day wipe 
 it clean, put it into a stewpan, and just cover 
 it with water ; skim it well when it is com- 
 ing to a boil, then put two whole onions, 
 stick two or three cloves into each, three 
 turnips quartered, a couple of carrots sliced, 
 two bay -leaves, and twenty-four corns of all- 
 spice, a head of celery, and a bundle of 
 sweet-herbs, j^epper, and salt; to these, 
 those who are for a " haut gout " may add 
 cayenne and garlic, in such proportions as 
 the palate that requires them may desire. 
 Let it stew gently till perfectly tender, i. e. 
 about du-ee hours; then take out the cheek, 
 divide it into handsome pieces, fit to help at 
 table ; skim, and strain die gravy ; melt an 
 ounce and a half of butter in a stewpan ; stir 
 into it as much flour as it will take up ; mix 
 with it by degrees a pint and a half of the 
 gravy; add to it a table-s}K)onful of basil, 
 tarragon, or elder vinegar, or the like quan- 
 tity of mushroom or walnut ketchup, or cav- 
 ice, or Port wine, and give it a boil. 
 
 OX CHEEK, TO BOIL. Wash very 
 clean, half a head ; let it lie in cold water 
 all night; break the l)one in two, taking care 
 not to break the flesh. Put it on in a pot 
 of boiling water, and let it boil from two to 
 three hours; take out the lx)ne. Serve it 
 with boiled cairots and tuniips, or savoys. 
 The liquor the head has been boiled in may 
 be strained and made into Scots barley broth, 
 or Scots kale. 
 
 OX FEET JELLY. Put a little hot 
 water over die top of the stock, pour it off, 
 and wipe it dry with a clean cloth; put a 
 quart of it into a saucepjin with the beaten 
 whites of five or six eggs, the juice of five 
 lemons made very sweet with good brown 
 sugar, a clove or two, and a little cinna- 
 mon pounded; let it boil twenty minutes, 
 stirring it all the time ; take it off the fire, 
 and add a pint, or half a pint of white 
 wine, and run it through a jelly-bag till 
 clear. 
 
 OX-TAILS STEWED. Divide them 
 into joints; wash them; parboil them; set 
 them on to stew in just water enough to 
 cover thorn, — and dress them in the same 
 manner as we have directed in Stewed Gib- 
 lets, for which they are an excellent substi- 
 tute. 
 
 OYSTERS. Some piscivorous gour- 
 mands think that oysters are not best when 
 quite fresh from their beds, and that their 
 flavor is too brackish and harsh, and is much 
 ameliorated by giving them a feed. 
 
 To FEED oysters. — Cover them with 
 clean water, with a pint of salt to alx)Ut two 
 gallons (nothing else, no oatmeal, flour, nor 
 any other tnuupery) ; this will cleanse them 
 from die mud and sand, &c. of the bed ; af- 
 ter they have lain in it twelve hours, change 
 it for fresh salt and water, and in twelve 
 hours more they will lie in prime order for 
 the mouth, and remain so two or diree days: 
 at the lime of high water you may see them 
 open their shells, in expectation of receiving 
 their usual food. This process of feeding 
 oysters is only employed when a great many 
 come up together. 
 
 Common people are indifferent about the 
 manner of opening oysteis, and the time of 
 eating them after they are opened ; nodiing, 
 however, is more imjwrtant in the enlight- 
 ened eyes of the exjierienced oyster-eater. 
 
 Those who wish to enjoy this delicious 
 restorative in its utmost perfection, must 
 eat it the moment it is opened, with its own 
 gravy in the under shell ; if not eaten while 
 absf>lutelv alive, its flavor and spirit are lost. 
 
 Shell-iish have long held a high rank in 
 the catalogue of easily digestible and speedi- 
 ly restorative foods; of these Uie oyster cer- 
 
0¥S 
 
 129 
 
 OYS 
 
 tainly desenea tlie best character, but we 
 ditnk it has acquired not a little more repu- 
 tation for these qualities tlian it deserves ; a 
 well-dressed chop or steak, will invigorate 
 the heart in a much higher ratio ; to recruit 
 the animal spirits, and sup|>ort strengtli, 
 there is nothing equal to animal food ; when 
 kept till properly tender, none will give so 
 little trouble to the digestive organs, and so 
 much substantial excitement to the constitu- 
 tion. 
 
 OYSTER ATTELETS. Cut into small 
 pieces a sweetbread and a slice or two of 
 bacon, beard some large oysters, and season 
 all highly with chopped parsley, shallot, a 
 little tljyme, pe[)per and salt. Then fasten 
 them altennitely upon wire skewers; put 
 sifted bread crumbs over them, and broil or 
 fiy them of a light brown color. Take them 
 on the skeweis, and serve them with some 
 rich gravy, to which add a little ketchup and 
 lemon pickle. 
 
 OYSTERS, BAKED. Grate a small 
 loaf of stale bread. Butter a deep dish well, 
 and cover the sides and bottom with bread 
 crumbs. Put in half the oysters with a lit- 
 tle mace and pepper. Cover them with 
 crumbs and small bits of butter strewed over 
 them. Then put in tlie remainder of the 
 oysters. Season them. Cover diem as 
 before with cri!H!!j.s and butter. If the oys- 
 ters are fresh pour in the liquor. If they 
 are salt, substitute a little water. Bake it a 
 very short time. 
 
 OYSTERS, FRIED. (1) Make a batter 
 as for pancakes, seasoned with grated nut- 
 meg, white |iep|>er, and salt, and add some 
 finely grated bread crumbs ; dip in the oys- 
 ters, and fry them of a light brown in beef 
 dripping. 
 
 Another way is, to dip (hem into the white 
 of an egg beat up, and roll diem in finely 
 grated bread crumbs, seasoned with grated 
 nutmeg, juipper and salt, and fry Uiem as 
 directed. 
 
 OYSTERS, FRIED. (2) The largest 
 and finest f)ysters are to lie ch<)sen for this 
 purpose; simmer them in their own liquor 
 for a couple of minutes, take them out and 
 lay them on a cloth to drain, beard them and 
 then flour them, egg and bread-crumb them, 
 put them into boiling fat, and fry them a 
 delicate brown. Obs. — An elegant garnish 
 for made dishes, stewed rump-steaks, boiled 
 or fried fish, &c. ; but diey are too hard and 
 dry to be eaten. 
 
 OYSTERS, FRIED. (3) For frying, 
 choose tile largest and finest oysters. Beat 
 pome yolks of eggs, and mix with tiiem grat- 
 
 ed bread, and a small quantity of beatra 
 nutmeg and mace, and a little salt. Hav- 
 ing stirred this batter well, dip yoiu- oys- 
 ters into it, and fry them in lard, till they 
 are of a light brown color. Take care not 
 to do tiiem too much. Serve Uiem up hot. 
 For grated bread, some substitute crackers 
 pounded to a powder, and mixed widi yolk 
 of egg and spice, 
 
 OYSTERS, TO KEEP AND FAT- 
 TEN. Put them into water, and wash and 
 clean them with a birch broom ; laying them 
 with the deep shell downwards into a tub or 
 broad platter, and Uien sprink le them over with 
 salt. The ft)llowing day pour over them and 
 fill the vessel with clean cold water, in which 
 they must remain an hour, then pour it off 
 again ; sprinkle tiiem with salt, and let this 
 be repeated evei-y day. This method will 
 keep them good for a fortniglrt. 
 
 OYSTER KETCHUP. (1) Take 
 fine fresh oysters ; wash them in their own 
 liquor; skim it; pound them in a marble 
 mortar ; to a pint of oysters add a pint of 
 Sherry ; boil them up, and add an ounce of 
 salt, two drachms of j)oundcd mace, and one 
 of cayenne; let it just boil up again; skim 
 it, and rub it through a sieve, and when cold, 
 bottle it, cork it well, and seal it down. 
 
 N. B. It is the best way to pound the salt 
 and spices, &c. witii theoysters. 
 
 Obs. — This composition very agreeably 
 heightens the flavor of white sauces, and 
 white made-dishes; and if you add a glass 
 of brandy to it, it will keep good for a consi- 
 derable time longer than oysters are out of 
 season. 
 
 OYSTER KETCHUP. (2) Boil one 
 hundred oysters witii their liquor, till the 
 strength lje extracted from tiiem ; strain them 
 well, and add to the liquor an equal quanti- 
 ty of wine, one half Port and the other 
 Sherry, also a quarter of an ounce of mace, 
 the same of white pepper and of allspice, a 
 drachm or tea-spoonful of ginger, and six 
 anchovies; boil all together about fifteen 
 minutes. Put into ajar twelve shallots, tiie 
 peel of a lemon, and a piece of horse-radish 
 cut small; poui' upon tiiem the boiling li- 
 quor, and when cold, bottle it, together with 
 tlie spices. 
 
 OYSTER LOAVES. Cut off the top 
 of some small French rolls, take out tiie 
 crumb, and fry tiiem brown and crisp with 
 clarified butter, tiien fry some bread crumbs ; 
 stew the reciuisite quantity of oysters, beard- 
 ed and cut in two, in their liquor, with a 
 little white wine, some gravy, and seasoned 
 with grated lemon-peel, pounded mace, pep- 
 per, and salt; add a bit of butter; fill the 
 
OYS 
 
 130 
 
 OYS 
 
 roHs with the oysters, and serve them with 
 the fried bread crumbs in the dish. 
 
 OYSTER PATTIES. (1) Roll out puff 
 paste a quarter of an inch thick, cut it into 
 squares with a knife, sheet eight or ten patty 
 pans, put upon each a bit of bread die size 
 of half a walnut ; roll out anotlier layer of 
 paste of the same thickness, cut it as above, 
 wet the edge of the bottom paste, and put 
 on the top, pare diem round to the pan, and 
 notch them about a dozen times with the 
 back of the knife, rub them lightly with yolk 
 of egg, bake them in a hot oven about a 
 quarter of an hour : when done, take a diin 
 slice off the top, then, with a small knife or 
 spoon, take out the bread and the inside 
 paste, leaving the outside quite entire ; then 
 parboil two dozen of large oysters, strain 
 them from their licjuor, wash, beard, and cut 
 tliem into four, put them into a stewpan 
 widi an ounce of butter rolled in flour, half 
 a gill of good cream, a little grated lemon- 
 peel, die oyster liquor, free from sediment, 
 reduced by boiling to one half, some cayenne 
 pepper, salt, and a tea-spoonful of lemon- 
 juice ; stir it over a fire five minutes, and 
 fill the patties. 
 
 OYSTER PATTIES. (2) Make some 
 rich puff paste, and bake it in very small tin 
 patty-pans. When cool, turn them out upon 
 a large uish. Stew some large fresh oysters 
 witha few cloves, a little mace and nutmeg, 
 some yolk of egg boiled hard and grated, a 
 little butter, and as much of the oyster liquor 
 as will cover diem. When they have stew- 
 ed a little while, take them out of the pan, 
 and set diem away to cool. When quite 
 cold, lay two or three oysters in each shell 
 of puff-jjaste. 
 
 OYSTER PIE. Beard a quart of fine 
 oysters, strain die liquor, and add diem to 
 it. Cut into thin slices the kidney fat of a 
 loin of veal; season them with while pep- 
 per, salt, mace, and grated lemon-peel ; lay 
 them on the bottom of a pie dish, put in the 
 oysters and liquor, with a little more season- 
 ing ; put over them the marrow of two bones. 
 Lay a border of puff paste round the edge of 
 the dish ; cover it widi paste, and bake it 
 nearly three-quarters of an hour. 
 
 OYSTERS, PRESERVED. Open 
 the oysters carefully, so as not to cut them 
 except in dividing die gi'istle which attaches 
 die shells; put them into a mortar, and 
 when you have got as many as you can con- 
 veniently pound at once, add about two 
 drachms of salt to a dozen oysters ; pound 
 them, and rub them through the back of a 
 hair sieve, and put them into a mortar again, 
 widi as much flour (which has been pre- 
 
 viously thoroughly dried) as will make them 
 into a paste ; roll it out several times, and, 
 lastly, flour it, and roll it out the dilcknesg 
 of a half-crown, and divide it into pieces 
 about an inch square ; lay them in a Dutch 
 oven, where they will diy so gently as not to 
 get burnt: turn them every half hour, and 
 when diey begin to dry, cnimble them ; they 
 will take about four hours to dry; then 
 pound them fine, sift them, and put diem 
 into bottles and seal them over. 
 
 N. B. Three dozen required seven and a 
 half ounces of dried flour to make them into 
 a paste which then Weighed eleven ounces ; 
 when dried and powdered, six and a quar- 
 ter ounces. 
 
 To make half a pint of sauce, put one 
 ounce of butter into a stewpan with diree 
 di-achms of oyster powder, and six table- 
 spoonfuls of milk; set it on a slow fire; stir 
 it till it boils, and season it with salt. 
 
 This powder, if made with plump, juicy 
 oysters, will abound widi the flavor of the 
 fish; and if closely corked, and kept in a 
 dry place, will remain good for sometime. 
 
 This extract is a welcome succedaneum 
 while oysters are out of season, and in such 
 inland parts as seldom have any, is a valua- 
 ble addition to the list of fish sauces: it is 
 equally good widi boiled fowl, or nimp steak, 
 and sprinkled on bread and butter makes a 
 very good sandwich, and is esjiecially wor- 
 thy the notice of country housekeepers, and 
 as a store sauce for the army and navy. 
 
 OYSTERS, TO PICKLE. Open them 
 carefully, preserving all their liquor; put 
 them into a saucepan over the fire, stirring 
 them now and dien, and when the liquor 
 boils take diem off, skim die surface, and 
 put the oysters into a bowl; let the liquor 
 settle, pour off the clear part, and put it on 
 to boil, with, to three hundred oysters, half 
 an ounr^ of whole black pepper, a little 
 mace and allspice; boil it ten minutes, then 
 add the oysters, and let diem boil two min- 
 utes ; put diem into a jar, and when they 
 are cold, tie a paper over it. 
 
 OYSTER SAUCE. When your oys- 
 ters are opened, take care of all the liquor 
 and give them one boil in it. Then take 
 die oysters out, and put to die liquor three 
 or four blades of mace. Add to it some 
 melted butter, and some thick cream or 
 rich milk. Put in your oysters and give 
 them a boil. 
 
 OYSTERSOUP. (1) Three pints of large 
 fi-esh oysters. Two table-spoonfuls of but- 
 ter, rolled in flour. A bunch of sweet herbs. 
 A quart of rich milk. Pepper to your taste. 
 Take the liquor of three pints of oysters. 
 Strain it, and set it on die fii-e. Put into it. 
 
OYS 
 
 131 
 
 OYS 
 
 pepper to your taste, two table-spoonAils of 
 cutter rolled in flour, and a bunch of sweet 
 marjoram and other pot-herbs. When it 
 boils add a quart of rich milk — and as soon 
 as it boils again take out the herbs, and 
 put in the oysters just before you send it to 
 table. 
 
 OYSTER SOUP. (2) Boil in water die 
 crumb of two twopenny rolls, with a few blades 
 of mace, a tea-spoonfiil of whole white pep- 
 per, and four onions cut small. Pick out 
 tlie spice, and rub the bread and onions 
 tlu'ough a hair sieve, then add it to three 
 quarts of well-seasoned strong veal stock. 
 Rub down tlu'ee ounces of butter, witli a 
 table-spoonful of flour, and mix it gradually 
 with half a pint of the soup, and then stir all 
 well together. When it has boiled a short 
 time, add with tlie liquor half a hundred or 
 more of fine oysters, and let the whole sim- 
 mer for ten or fifteen minutes. If tlie soup 
 is not quite salt enough with the liquor of 
 the oysters, a little salt may be added. 
 
 OYSTERS SCALLOPED. (1) Put 
 them, with their liquorstrained, two or three 
 blades of mace, a few peppercorns, a little 
 cayenne, and a piece of butter tlie size of a 
 walnut, kneaded with flour, into a stewpan. 
 Simmer them very gently for half an hour, 
 by no means letting them boil ; pick out the 
 mace and pepper ; have ready, finely grated 
 bread-crumbs, seasoned with pepper and 
 salt; put into the scallop-shells, or into a 
 dish, alternately a layer of bread-cnimbs, 
 then one of oysters and part of their liquor ; 
 and stick over the last layer of bread-crumbs 
 a few bits of butter, and brown tliem in a 
 Dutch oven for fifteen or twenty minutes. 
 
 OYSTERS SCALLOPED. (2) Take 
 off the beards, stew them in their liquor 
 strained, widi a little mace, white pepper, 
 and salt. Fry in a stewpan, with a bit of 
 butter, some grated bread-crumbs, till of a 
 nice brown; put them alternately with the 
 oysters into a dish. 
 
 OYSTERS SCALLOPED. (3) A 
 good way to warm up any cold fish. Stew 
 die oysters slowly in Uieir own liquor for two 
 or three minutes, take them out with a spoon, 
 beard them, and skim the liquor, put a bit 
 of butter into a stewpan ; when it is melted, 
 add as much fine bread-crumbs as will dry 
 it up, then put to it the oyster liquor, and 
 give it a boil up, put the oysters into scal- 
 lop-shells that you have buttered, and strew- 
 ed with bread-crumbs, then a layer of oys- 
 ters, then of bread-crumbs, and then some 
 more oysters ; moisten it with Qie oyster li- 
 
 quor, cover them with bread-crumbs, pat 
 about half a dozen little bits of butter on the 
 top of each, and brown them in a Dutch ov- 
 en. Essence of anchovy, ketchup, cayenne, 
 grated lemon-peel, mace, and other spices, 
 &c. are added by diose who prefer piquance 
 to the genuine flavor of the oyster. 
 
 Cold fish may be re-dressed the same way 
 N. B. Small scallop-shells, or saucers that 
 hold about half a dozen oysters, are the most 
 convenient. 
 
 OYSTERS STEWED. (1) Stew with 
 a quart of oysters, and their liquor strained, 
 a glass of white wine, one anchovy bniised, 
 seasoned with white pepper, salt, a little 
 mace, and a bunch of sweet herbs ; let all 
 stew gently a quarter of an hour. Pick out 
 the bunch of herbs, and add a quarter of a 
 pound of fresh butter kneaded in a large ta- 
 ble-spoonful of flour, and stew them ten or 
 twelve minutes. Serve them garnished with 
 bread-sippets and cut lemon. They may te 
 stewed simply in their own liquor, seasoned 
 with salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg, and 
 thickened with cream, flour, and butter. 
 
 OYSTERS STEWED. (2) Open the 
 oysters and strain the liquor. Put to them 
 some grated stale bread, and a little pepper 
 and nutmeg. Throw them into the liquor, 
 and add a glass of white wine. Let tliem 
 stew but a very short time, or they will be 
 hard. Have ready some slices of buttered 
 toast widi the crust off". When the oysters 
 are done, dip the toast in the liquor, and 
 lay the pieces round the sides and in the 
 bottom of a deep dish. Pour die oystei-s and 
 liquor upon the toast and send them to ta- 
 ble hot. 
 
 OYSTERS STEWED. (3) Large oys- 
 ters will do for stewing, and by some are pre- 
 ferred. Stew a couple of dozen of these in 
 dieir own liquor; when they are coming to a 
 boil, skim well, take them up and beard them ; 
 strain die liquor through a tamis-sieve, and 
 lay the oysters on a dish. Put an ounce of 
 butter into a stewpan ; when it is melted, 
 put to it as much flour as will dry it up, the 
 liquor of the oysters, and three table-spoon- 
 fuls of milk or cream, and a little white pep- 
 per and salt; to this some cooks add a little 
 ketchup, or finely-chop|)ed parsley, grated 
 lemon-peel, and juice; let it boil up for a 
 couple of minutes, till it is smooth, dien take 
 it off" the fire, put in the oysters, and let them 
 gel warm (diey must not diemselves be boil- 
 ed, or they will become hard) ; line the bot- 
 tom and sides of a hash-dish with bread- 
 sippets, and pour your oysters and sauce 
 into it. 
 
PAN 
 
 1132 
 
 PAN 
 
 P. 
 
 PALATES AND SWEETBREADS. 
 Boil the palates till the black skin can be 
 easily peeled off; parboil the sweetbreads 
 with them; skin and cut the palates into 
 pieces, and if the sweetbreads ai-e large, cut 
 them in two the long way ; dust them with 
 flour, and fry tliera of a light brown, in but- 
 ter ; then stew them in rather more tlian a 
 pint of the liquor in which they were boiled. 
 Brown a piece of butter with flour; add 
 it, with a little cayenne, salt, pepper, grated 
 lemon-peel, and nutmeg, and a glass of white 
 wine. A little before serving, stir in a 
 spoonful of vinegar, or tlie squeeze of a lem- 
 
 PANADA. (1) Boil some pieces of stale 
 bread in a sufficient quantity of cold water 
 to cover them, with a little cinnamon, lemon- 
 peel, and caraways ; when the bread is quite 
 soft, press out all the water, and beat up the 
 bread with a small piece of butter, a little 
 milk, and sugar to the taste ; a little spice 
 may be added. 
 
 PANADA. (2) Set a little water on 
 the fire with a glass of white wine, some su- 
 gar, a veiy little nutmeg, and lemon-peel ; 
 meanwhile grate some crumbs of bread : the 
 moment the water boils up, put in the bread- 
 crumbs (without taking it off the fire), and 
 let it boil as fast as it can. When of a 
 proper consistence, that is, when just of a 
 sufficient thickness to drink, tsike it off the 
 fire. 
 
 PANCAKES AND FRITTERS. Break 
 three eggs in a basin ; beat them up with a 
 little nutmeg and salt ; then put to them four 
 ounces and a half of flour, and a little milk ; 
 beat it of a smooth batter ; then add by de- 
 grees as much milk as will make it of the 
 thickness of good cream: the frying-pan must 
 be about the size of a pudding plate, and 
 vexy clean, or they will stick ; make it hot, 
 and to each pancake put in a bit of butter 
 about as big as a walnut: when it is melted, 
 pour in the batter to cover the bottom of the 
 pan; make them the thickness of half a 
 crown; fry them of a light brown on both 
 sides. The above will do for apple fritters, 
 by adding one spoonful more of flour ; peel 
 your apples, and cut them in tliick slices ; 
 take out the core, dip them in the batter, 
 and fry diem in hot lard ; put them on a 
 sieve to drain ; dish them neatly, and grate 
 some loaf-sugai' over tliem. 
 
 PANCAKES IN APPLES. Cut some 
 
 apples very small, stew them with a little 
 white wine, grated lemon-peel, pounded cin- 
 namon, and brown sugar ; mash them, and 
 spread it over pancakes ; roll them up, and 
 
 I serve with sifted loaf-sugar over them. 
 
 I 
 
 I PANCAKES COMMON. With near- 
 ly half a pound of flour, mix five well-beaten 
 eggs, and dien add, by degrees, a quart of 
 good milk; fry them in fresh lard, and 
 serve them with pounded loaf-sugar sti-ewed 
 
 i between each. 
 
 I PANCAKES FINE. To three table- 
 spoonfuls of flour add six well-beaten eggs, 
 thi"ee table-spoonfuls of while wine, four 
 ounces of melted butter nearly cold, tlie same 
 quantity of pounded loaf-sugar, half a grated 
 
 I nutmeg, and a pint of cream ; mix it well, 
 
 I beating the batter for sometime, and poor 
 
 ' it thm over the pan. 
 
 I PANCAKE, RICE. Add to three well- 
 \ beaten eggs a pint of new milk, three table- 
 ' spoonfiils of boiled rice, some sugar, and a 
 little pounded cinnamon ; mix it all well to- 
 gether, and fry it in butter ; brown the up- 
 ! per side for a minute before the fire ; serve 
 I it, cut into four, widi pounded sugai- strewed 
 ' over it. 
 
 I PANCAKE RISSOLES. Mince fine- 
 
 j ly some cold veal, season it with grated lem- 
 
 I on-peel, nutmeg, pepper, salt, and a little 
 
 ! lemon pickle ; warm it up with some good 
 
 gravy, and a small bit of butter rolled in 
 
 ! flour. Have ready a batter as for pancakes, 
 
 I seasoned with a little salt and grated nutmeg. 
 
 j Fry a thin pancake, turn it, and put into 
 
 I the middle two table-spoonfuls of the minced 
 
 I veal; fold it in at each side and at die ends 
 
 in an oblong fonn, and fry them of a light 
 
 brown color ; lay them upon die back of a 
 
 sieve to drain before the fire. Four or six 
 
 I will make a dish. They are served as a 
 
 I corner or top dish. 
 
 PANCAKES, SCOTCH. Mix with 
 
 six table-spoonfuls of flour a little cream, add 
 
 the beaten yolks of six eggs, and then mix in 
 
 a pint of cream, the giated peel of a small 
 
 lemon, a table-spoonful of pounded sugar, 
 
 j and a little ratafia ; when the batter is very 
 
 well lieaten, and just before using, mix in 
 
 I the whites of die eggs beaten widi a knife, 
 
 i to a stiff frodi. Put a little butter or lard 
 
 1 into the fiying-pan, make it hot, pour it out, 
 
 I and wipe the pan with a clean cloth ; put in 
 
 ; some butter or lard, and when hot, jjour in a 
 
 i tea-cupful of the batter; shake it, and when 
 
 I fiurm, prick it a little with a fork, but do not 
 
 I turn it ; hold it before the fire a minute to 
 
PAR 
 
 133 
 
 PAR 
 
 Inown. Serve them with pounded loaf-su- 
 .gar strewed over them. 
 
 PANCAKE, THICK. Beat separate- 
 ly the yolks and whites of two egqs ; mix 
 witli tlie yolks a table-spoonful and a half of 
 flour, a little sugar and white wine, half a 
 pint of cream or good milk ; add the whites, 
 and fry it in a broad saucepan, with butter 
 or clarified suet ; brown the upper side be- 
 fore the fire; warm any sort of preserve, 
 spread it upon one half, and turn the other 
 over it, and sti-ew upon it pounded loaf su- 
 gar. 
 
 PANNEQUETS. Put into a pan, two 
 ounces of sifted flour, four of powder-sugar, 
 the same of bitter macaroons, and a spoon- 
 ful of dried orange-flowers; break up all 
 tliese articles, and mix vvidi them the yolks 
 often eggs, four large ghisses of double cream, 
 and a pinch of salt. Wash the bottom of a 
 frying-pan lightly with some warm clarified 
 butter, then put in it a spoonful of the above 
 preparation, spread it over the pan, to make 
 tlie paste as tliin as jwssible ; when die pan- 
 nequet becomes lightly colored, turn it over 
 carefully, and do the other side ; then put it 
 on a tin plate, spread a little apricot marma- 
 lade over, and having strewed ci'ushed maca- 
 roons on that, roll up die pannequet till about 
 an inch in diameter; in die meantime put a 
 second spoonful of your preparation into the 
 pan, and proceed in the above manner, gar- 
 nishing one pannequet whilst another is 
 cooking; taking care, however, to set the 
 pan over a gentle fire. When all are done, 
 cut the pannequets three inches in length, 
 glaze, and dish diem. 
 
 PARSLEY. To preserve parsley through 
 the winter: — in May, June, or July, take 
 fine fresh-gathered sprigs; pick, and wash 
 them clean ; set on a stewpan half full of wa- 
 ter; put a little sjilt in it; boil, and skiin it 
 clean, and dien put in the parsley, and let it 
 boil for a couple of minutes ; take it out, and 
 lay it on a sieve before the fire, that it may 
 be dried as quick as possible ; put it by in a 
 tin box, and keep it in a dry place: when 
 you want it, lay it in a basin, and cover it 
 with warm water a few m^wtes before you 
 use it. 
 
 PARSLEY BUTTER. Wash some 
 parsley very clean, and pick it carefully leaf 
 ty leaf; put a tea-spoonful of salt into half 
 a pint of boiling water: boil the parsley 
 about ten minutes; drain it on a sieve; 
 mince it quite fine, and then bruise it to a 
 pulp. The delicacy and excellence of Uiis 
 elegant and innocent relish de|jend8 u»)on the 
 parsley being minced very fine: put it into a 
 sauce-boat, and mix with it, by degrees, 
 12 
 
 about half a pmt of good melted butter, odi]^ 
 do not put so much flour to it, as the paw- 
 ley will add to its thickness: never poiMr 
 parsley and butter over boiled things, but 
 send it up in a boat. 
 
 PARSLEY, CRISP. Pick and wash 
 young parsley, shake it in a diy cloth to 
 drain the water from it ; spread it on a sheet 
 of clean paper in a Dutch oven before the 
 fire, and turn it frequently until it is quite 
 crisp. This is a much more easy way of 
 preparing it than frying it, which is not sel- 
 dom ill done. 
 
 PARSNIPS, TO BOIL. Scrape and 
 wash them nicely ; when large, divide them ; 
 boil them in milk and water till quite tender; 
 they will take nearly as long to boil as car- 
 rots. They may also be mashed like tur- 
 nips. 
 
 PARTRIDGES, TO CHOOSE. When 
 they are young the bill is of a dark color, 
 and Uieir legs are of a yellowish color ; and 
 when fresh, the vent is firm, but diis part 
 will look greenish when stale. The plumage 
 on die breast of the hen is light, tliat on the 
 cock is tinged with red. 
 
 PARTRIDGES BROILED. Take 
 five parti-idges, cut them in halves, trim and 
 dip them in melted buttei-, and bread them 
 twice ; a quarter of an hour before dinner 
 broil them. 
 
 PARTRIDGES MINCED. Take the 
 fillets from eight roasted partridges, mince, 
 and put them into a saucepan ; make a light 
 roux, in which put the livers and lights of 
 the birds, a bay-leaf, a clove, three shallots, 
 and a little sage, give Uiem a few turns, and 
 then add two laige glasses of stock, reduce 
 the sauce to half, stiain and put it to the 
 mince, stirring till it is thick and smooth ; 
 make it hot, but not boiling; serve it over 
 fried bread, and garnish your dish, with 
 either poached or hard eggs. 
 
 PARTRIDGE IN BREAD. Take a 
 nice shaped loaf, of about a pound weight; 
 make a hole at one end, through which take 
 out all die crumbs, rub the crust over with a 
 little butter or lard, and set it in the oven for 
 a few minutes to dry: fill this with minced 
 partridge (see that article), and put the loaf, 
 bottom upwards, into a stewpan ; add two 
 spoonfuls of veal blond, with any other gar- 
 nish you please; let it remain on the fire till 
 the bread is soft enough to allow a straw to 
 penetrate it, then take it out and dish it with 
 the sauce round. 
 
 PARTRIDGE PIE IN A DISH. Take 
 
PAR 
 
 134 
 
 PAS 
 
 SxHc partridges, pick and singe them; cut 
 off their legs at the knee; season with pep- 
 per, salt, chopped jjarsley, thyme, and musli- 
 rooms. Put a veaJ steak and a slice of ham 
 at the bottom of the dish ; put in the par- 
 tridges with half a pint of good consomme. 
 Line the edges of the dish with puff paste, 
 and cover with die same; do it over with 
 egg, and let it bake for an hour. 
 
 PARTRIDGE TO ROAST. Take 
 out the entrails, and singe the partridge over 
 tlie stove, riien roll a bit of butter in pepper 
 and salt, and put it into the inside of the 
 bird ; truss it neatly with the head turned on 
 one side, keeping the breast as full as possi- 
 ble ; over which should be laid slices of fat 
 bacon tied on with pack-thread ; before it is 
 put on the spit, break the back-bone, that it 
 may lay the better on tlie dish. A good 
 sized partridge will take half an hour ; when 
 nearly done, take away the bacon, brown 
 the partridge well ; sprinkle it with flour and 
 salt, and froth it with butter; serve it with 
 water-cresses, a good gravy under it, and 
 bread sauce in a boat. 
 
 PARTRIDGE TO TRUSS. Let it be 
 well picked and singed, then cut a slit in 
 the back of the neck, and carefully take the 
 crop out without breaking it; then cut off 
 the vent, and draw out the inside; after this, 
 well wipe tlie inside, and tlien pui in a little 
 pepper and salt, mixed with a bit of butter. 
 Having cleansed it, proceed to truss the 
 bird, by first cutting off the pinion at the first 
 joint, so that the feathers need not be picked 
 off that part ; break die back-bone, and truss 
 it in the same manner as a fowl, by pressing 
 the legs close to the apron, then turn the bird 
 on the breast, and run a skewer through the 
 end of the pinion, the leg, the body, and the 
 leg and pinion on the, other side, with the 
 head fixed on the end of the skewer, and 
 over the breast lay a slice of fat bacon, and 
 tie it on with pack-thread. If for boiling or 
 stewing, truss them tlie same as a fowl for 
 boiling. 
 
 PARTRIDGES TO Sl^EW. Truss 
 the partridges as fowls are done for boiling ; 
 pound the livers with double the quantity of 
 fat bacon and bread-crumbs boiled in milk; 
 and some chopped parsley, thyme, shallots, 
 and mushrooms; season widi pepjjer, salt, 
 grated lemon-peel, and mace. Stufl' tlie in- 
 side of the birds, tie them at both ends, and 
 put tliem into a stewpan lined with slices of 
 bacon ; add a quart of good stock, half a pint 
 of white wine, two onions, a bunch of sweet 
 herbs, and a few blades of mace ; let them 
 stew gently till tender ; take them out, strain 
 and tliicken the sauce with flour and butter, 
 make it hot, and pour it over the partridges. 
 
 PASTE. Be very particular that yonr 
 slab or paste table, rolling-pin and cutter* 
 are clean, and free from all old paste, and be 
 very careful that both the flour and butter 
 are extremely good. Have a dry sieve al- 
 ways in readiness, in or by the flour tub, 
 so as to use none without sifting it; for, 
 though it may appear pure and fine, bran, or 
 small particles of old paste may have fallen 
 into it; sifting is, therefore, always neces- 
 sary. Weigh one pound of flour, lay it in a 
 circle on the slab: break one egg in the cen- 
 tre, put a small quantity of salt, and a little 
 bit of butter ; mix all these together lightly, 
 add a little water, mix them again, then add 
 more water, and so proceed until it binds 
 into paste; but take care that you do not 
 make it too stiff, nor squeeze it much to- 
 gether, till you find there is sufficient water; 
 then work it wel? together, and roll it out on 
 the slab, but do not roll it too thin ; work a 
 pound of butter on tlie slab, spread it out to 
 the size of the paste, with a knife cut it off 
 altogether, and lay it on the paste; then 
 double the ends of the paste together, to in- 
 close the butter; then give it one turn, thus: 
 roll it out till you just perceive the butter 
 through the paste; turn the end which is 
 next to you half way over, and the other end 
 over that, roll it once or twice with the roll- 
 ing-pin ; then let it stand, this is called one 
 turn; then, in three minutes time, turn it 
 again, and so proceed until you have given 
 it six turns; then roll it out, and cut it for 
 patties or any shajie you please ; but observe 
 not to put over tliem too much e^g, as that 
 will prevent their rising; as soon as tliey 
 are baked, take them off" the sheet, lay them 
 on paper, and when cold, scrape die bottoms, 
 neatly cut out the insides ready for what- 
 ever you mean to put into them. For bak- 
 ing, see directions for the oven. 
 
 PASTE, BEEF DRIPPING. Rub 
 
 into one pound of flour half a ]X)und of 
 clarified beef dripping, till it all looks like 
 flour; work it to a stiff" paste with cold wa- 
 ter, and roll it out two or three times. This 
 paste answers very well for common pies, but 
 must be used when hot and fresh bAed. 
 
 PASTE FOR BOILED PUDDINGS. 
 
 Pick and chop very fine half a pound of beef 
 suet, add to it one pound and a quarter of 
 flour, and a little salt: mix it with half a 
 pint of milk or water, and beat it well with 
 the rolling-pin, to incorporate the suet with 
 the flour. 
 
 PASTE FOR CHEESECAKES. Rub 
 
 equal quantities of flour and butter, together 
 widi a little pounded and sifted loaf sugar, 
 make it into a paste, with warm milk, roll 
 it oui, and line tlie pans with it. 
 
PAS 
 
 136 
 
 PAS 
 
 PASTE, CRISP. Rub a quarter of a 
 poand of flour, add two table-spoonfuls of 
 pounded loaf-sugar, and the well-beaten yolks 
 of two or three eggs, work it well with a 
 horn-spoon, and roll it out very thin, touch- 
 ing it as little as possible with the hands ; 
 the moment l)efore putting into a quick oven 
 rub it over with the well-beaten white of an 
 egg, and sift all over the tart finely-pounded 
 sugar. This crust may be used for any fruit 
 tarts. 
 
 PASTE FOR CROQUANTS OR 
 Cut Pastry. To half a pound of fine 
 flour put a quarter of a pound of sifted loaf- 
 sugar; mix it well together with yolks of 
 eggs till of a good stiflfness. 
 
 PASTE FOR A COMMON DUM- 
 PLING. Rub into a pound of flour six 
 ounces of butter, then work it into a paste 
 with two well-beaten eggs and a little water. 
 This paste may be baked, a large table-spoon- 
 ful of pounded loaf-sugar being added to it. 
 
 PASTE FOR FAMILY PIES. Rub 
 
 into one pound and a half of flour half a 
 pound of butter, wet it with cold water suffi- 
 cient to make it into a stiff" paste ; work it 
 well, and roll it out two or three times. 
 
 PASTE, POTATO. Mash sixteen oun- 
 ces of boiled potatoes, while they are warm, 
 then rub them between the hands, together 
 with twelve ounces of flour ; when it is well 
 mixed, and all Iqoks like flour, add half a 
 tea-spoonful of salt, and, witli a little cold 
 water, make it into a stiff" paste ; beat and 
 roll it out three or four times, making it very 
 thin the last time. Lay it over black cur- 
 i"ant jam, raspberries, or any sort of preserve, 
 rub the edges with water, roll it up like a 
 bolster pudding, and boil it in a buttered 
 and floured cloth for three or four hours. 
 Serve it with a sweet sauce. 
 
 PASTE, PUFF. Weigh an equal qnan- 
 tity of flour and butter, rub rather more tlian 
 the half of the flour into one third of the 
 butter, then add as much cold water as will 
 make it into a stiff" paste; work it until tlie 
 butter be completely mixed with the flour, 
 make it round, beat it with the rolling-pin, 
 dust it, as also the rolling-pin, with flour, and 
 roll it out towards the opposite side of the 
 slab, or paste-board, making it of an equal 
 thickness; then witli the point of a knife put 
 little bits of butter all over it, dust flour over 
 and under it, fold in the sides and roll it up, 
 dust it again with flour, beat it a little, and 
 roll it out, always rubbing the rolling-pin 
 with flour, and throwing some underneath the 
 paste, to prevent its sticking to the board. 
 If tlie butter is not all easily put in at the 
 
 second time of rolling out the paste, the 
 remainder maybe put in at the third; it 
 should be touched as little as possible with 
 the hands. 
 
 PASTE, PYRAMID. Make a rich 
 puff" paste, roll it out a quarter of an inch 
 thick, and cut it into five or seven pieces 
 with scalloped tin paste cutters, which go 
 one within another ; leave the bottom and 
 top piece entire, and cut a bit out of the 
 centre of the others ; bake them of a light 
 brown upon buttered paper placed upon tins. 
 When served, build them into a pyramid, 
 laying a diff"erent preserved fruit upon each 
 piece of paste, and on the top a whole apri- 
 cot, with a sprig of myx'tle stuck into it, or 
 green-gages, ornamented with a bunch of 
 barberries. 
 
 PASTE FOR MEAT OR SAVORY 
 PIES. Sift two pounds of fine flour to one 
 and a half of good salt butter, break it into 
 small pieces, and wash it well in cold wa- 
 ter; rub gently together the butter and flour, 
 and mix it up with the yolk of three eggs, 
 beat together with a spoon; and nearly a 
 pint of spring-water ; roll it out, and double 
 it in folds Uiree times, and it is ready. 
 
 PASTE FOR RAISED PIES. Take 
 
 four pounds of flour, one pound of butter, 
 and a little salt, mix these together, adding 
 water, a little at a time, taking care not to 
 put too much, as this paste must b^ made as 
 stiff" as possible; when thoroughly mixed, 
 give it two or three turns, roll it and cut it 
 out to the shape you want for your pie. 
 Sometimes the butter is melted in warm wa- 
 ter, and so mixed with the flour; then it 
 will not require so much wat-er, and the 
 paste will stand better; but as you work 
 your paste, when you find it get too cold, 
 warm it a little ; the first method of doing 
 it is the best, if intended to be eaten. 
 
 PASTE, RICE. (1) Mix together half 
 a pound of sifted ground rice and a quarter 
 of a pound of fresii butter, work it into a 
 paste with cold water, dredge flour over the 
 paste-board and rolling-pin, roll out the 
 paste, and put over it, in little bits, another 
 quarter of a pound of butter ; fold and roll it 
 out three times, strewing each time a little 
 flour over and under it, as also over the 
 rolling-pin. Cover the tart, and glaze it be- 
 fore being baked. This paste must be eaten 
 the day it is baked. 
 
 PASTE, RICE. (2) Boil, in a pint of 
 water, half a pound of good rice ; drain off" the 
 water, and pound the rice in a mortar, with 
 a small bit of butter, and an egg beaten } 
 then roll it out to cover any fruit tart. 
 
PEA 
 
 136 
 
 PEA 
 
 PASTE, RICH SHORT. Weigh 
 equal quantities of flom*, of butter, and of 
 pounded and sifted loaf-sugar; rub the but- 
 ter with the floui-, then mix in the sugar, 
 and rub it together till it will roll out ; put 
 it about half an inch tliick over the tart, 
 which may be of cheiries, raspberries, or 
 currants. 
 
 PASTE, SHORT, FOR TARTS. 
 
 Take one poimd of flour, lay it on the slab, 
 and in the centre put half a pound of butter, 
 two eggs, a very little salt, and a little wa- 
 ter, mix them lightly togetlier, and continue 
 adding more water, till you find it bind ; mix 
 it on the slab a little, and give it two turns, 
 it is then ready for use. 
 
 PASTE, SUET. Rub well with half a 
 pound of fresh beef suet, chopped as finely as 
 possible, three-quarters of a pound of flour, 
 and half a tea-spoonful of salt; make it into 
 a stiff paste with cold water, work it well, 
 beat it with the rolling-pin, and roll it out 
 two or three times. This paste answers for 
 any kind of boiled fi-uit pudding. 
 
 PASTE, SWEET. Rub into half a 
 pound of flour three ounces of butter and the 
 same of pounded loaf-sugar, add one Ijeaten 
 egg, and as much warm water as will make 
 it into a paste ; roll it thin for any kind of 
 fruit tart, rub it over with the beaten white 
 of an egg, and sift sugar over it. 
 
 PASTE FOR STRINGING TART- 
 LETS. Mix with your hands a quarter 
 of a pound of flour, an ounce of fresh butter, 
 and a little cold water; nib it well between 
 the board and your hand till it begins to 
 string ; cut it into small pieces, roll it out, 
 and draw it into fine sti'ings, lay them across 
 your taitlets in any device you please, and 
 hake them immediately. 
 
 PATTIES FOR FRIED BREAD. Cut 
 the crumb of a loaf of bread into squai'e or 
 round pieces nearly three inches high, and 
 cut bits the same width for tops ; mark them 
 neatly with a knife; fry the bread of a light 
 brown color in clarified beef-dripping or fine 
 lard. ' Scoop out the inside crumb, take 
 care not to go too near to the bottom ; fill 
 them with mince meat, prepared as for pat- 
 ties, widi stewed oysters, or with sausage 
 meat ; put on tlie tops, and serve them upon 
 a napkin. 
 
 PATTIES, LOBSTER. See. Lobsters. 
 
 PEACHES, CHARLOTTE OF. Take 
 twenty tolerably ripe peaches, cut them in 
 halves, and scald diem in a light sirup ; then 
 drain and cut each h&lf into three pieces 
 
 (lengthwise) of equal thickness ; put these 
 into a pan witli a quarter of a pound of pow- 
 der-sugar, and half the quantity of warm 
 butter; ^ them lightly, and having prepar- 
 ed your Charlotte in the usual way, pour in 
 the peaches and finish it (see Charlotte). 
 When in tlie dish for table, cover it com- 
 pletely with the sirup, and serve immedi- 
 ately. 
 
 PEARS BAKED. (1) Take twelve large 
 baking peai's ; pare and cut them into halves, 
 leaving the stem about half an inch long; 
 take out the core with the point of a knife, 
 and place diem close together in a block-tin 
 saucepan, the inside of which is quite bright, 
 with the cover to fit quite close ; put to them 
 the rind of a lemon cut thin, with half its 
 juice, a small stick of cinnamon, and twenty 
 grains of allspice; cover them with spring- 
 water, and allow one pound of loaf-sugar to 
 a pint and a half of water: cover them up 
 close, and bake them for six hours in a very 
 slow oven: they will be quite tender, and of a 
 bright color. Obs, — Prepared cochineal is 
 generally used for coloring the pears; but 
 if the above is strictly attended to, it will be 
 found to answer best. 
 
 PEARS BAKED. (2) Take half a 
 
 dozen fine pears, peel, cut them in halves, 
 and take out the cores ; put tliem into a pan 
 with a little red wine, a few cloves, half a 
 pound of sugar, and some water. Set them 
 in a moderate oven till tender, then put thera 
 on a slow fire to stew gently; add grated 
 lemon-peel, and more sugar if necessary. 
 They will be sufiiciently red. 
 
 PEARS COMPOTE. Choose your 
 fruit carefully, take off" the tops, and trim 
 the tails, wash and drain tliem well ; then 
 put them into a skillet with sugar, cinna- 
 mon, two or three cloves, a little red wine, 
 and some water. Set them on a slow fire, 
 taking care to skin them. When sufficiently 
 done, they will look wrinkled. Peel yoiu: 
 fruit, and put it into a well glazed pipkin, 
 with a glass of wine, a little cinnamon, 
 sugar to the taste, and a little water ; put in 
 also a pewter spoon ; cover the pij)kin close, 
 and set it on hot ashes. When done, the 
 peai-s will be of a fine red color. 
 
 PEARS TO COMPOUND. Take a 
 dozen large pears, coddle them ; when ten- 
 der, take them out and lay them in cold wa- 
 ter, pare and cut them in halves; take out 
 the cores, put them in sinip made thus: — 
 Two pounds and a half of sugar to three 
 pints of water, a little lemon-peel pared very 
 thin, boiled in them, and a little cochineal 
 bruised and put into a muslin bag: cover 
 tliem, boil them quick till they are tender 
 
PEA 
 
 137 
 
 PEP 
 
 and of a good color ; when cold, squeeze in 
 the juice of two or three lemons. 
 
 PEARS PRESERVED. Take care 
 in making this preserve that the fruit be not 
 too ripe ; they are in a fit state as soon as 
 the pips are black. Set the pears on the 
 fire in a sufficient quantity of water to cover 
 tliem; take them off when quite soft, and 
 tlu-ow tliem into cold water; paie them 
 lightly, cut off the stalks, prick each with a 
 piu sufficiently long to reach the core, and 
 put them again into cold water, with a 
 handful of alum ; set them on the fire to boil 
 until the pears arc tender, then take tliem out, 
 and put them into cold water for the third 
 time. Clai'ify and boil some sugar, put some 
 water to it, and when it boils, add the pears, 
 cover the pan, and give the whole a boil; 
 skim and pour it into an earthen pan and 
 leave it. The next day, drain the sirup 
 fi-om the pears, add a little more clarified 
 sugar to it, and boil it again; pour it over 
 the fruit, and leave it as before; the next 
 and two successive days, pioceed in the same 
 way, each time increasing tlie degree of 
 boiling, then add the pears, give the pre- 
 serve a boil (covered), skim and pour it into 
 a pan, and place it in a stove for two days, 
 then drain tlie fruit, and put it by for use. 
 
 PEARS STEWED. (1) Wash and prick 
 some large stewing pears, and set them on 
 the fire in a large stewing-pan of water to 
 scald; when scalded, take them out, and 
 put them on the fire in a pan with a sufficient 
 quantity of tliin clarified sugar to cover them, 
 a stick of cinnamon, a little mace, and two 
 or three cloves; let them stew gently till 
 they begin to soften and look rather red, 
 then put in a bottle of Port wine, and let 
 them continue stewing until perfectly done, 
 and look very rich and red ; then put tliem 
 in a basin or jar, with the liquor over them ; 
 they will be all the better for keeping four or 
 five days. 
 
 PEARS STEWED. (2) Pare, cut into 
 
 quarters, and take out die core of six good 
 baking pears ; throw them as they are done 
 into water. To a pound of fruit allow a 
 quarter of a pound of brown sugar, and three 
 cloves; put them into a saucepan, cover 
 them with cold water, keep the pan closely 
 covered, and stew them gently, till red and 
 tender; add, just before serving, a glass of 
 Port wine. They may be eaten hot or cold, 
 with cream, after dinner or at supper. 
 
 PEAS, GREEN. Young green peas, 
 
 well dressed, are among the most delicious 
 
 delicacies of the vegetable kingdom. They 
 
 must be young; it is equally indispensable 
 
 12* 
 
 that they be fresh gathered, and cooked as 
 soon as they are shelled for they soon lose 
 both their color and sweetness. After being 
 shelled, wash diem, drain them in a cullen- 
 der, put diem on in plenty of boiling water, 
 with a tea-spoonful of salt, and one of pound- 
 ed loaf sugar ; boil diem till diey become 
 tender, which, if young, will be in less dian 
 half an hour ; if old, they will require more 
 tlian an hour; drain them in a cullender, 
 and put them immediately into a dish with 
 a slice of fresh butter in it; some people 
 diink it an improvement to boil a small bunch 
 of mint with the peas; it is then minced 
 finely, and laid in small heaps at the end or 
 sides of die dish. If peas are allowed to 
 stand in the water after being boiled they 
 lose dieir color. 
 
 PEAS FOR A SECOxND COURSE. 
 
 Put a quart of fine green peas, together with 
 a bit of butter the size of a walnut, into as 
 much warm water as will cover them, in 
 which let them stand for eight or ten min- 
 utes. Strain off the water, put them into a 
 saucepan, cover it, stir them frequently, and 
 when a little tender, add a bunch of parsley, 
 and a young onion, nearly a dessert-spoonful 
 of loaf-sugar, and an ounce of butter mixed 
 with a tea-spoonful of flour ; keep stirring 
 them now and then till the peas be tender, 
 and add, if they become too thick, a table- 
 spoonful of hot water. Before serving, take 
 out the onion and parsley. 
 
 PEAS PUDDING. Take a pint of 
 good split peas, and having washed, soak 
 them well in warm water; then tie them in 
 a cloth, put die pudding into a saucepan of 
 hot water, and boil it until quite soft. When 
 done, beat it up with a little butter and salt; 
 serve it with boiled pork or beef. 
 
 PEAS POWDER. Pound together 
 in a marble moitar half an ounce each of 
 dried mint and sage, a drachm of celeiy- 
 seed, and a quarter of a drachm of cayenne 
 pepper ; rub them dirough a fine sieve. This 
 gives a verj' savory relish to peas soup, and 
 to water gruel, which, by its help, if the 
 eater of it has not the most lively imagina- 
 tion, he may fancy he is sipping good peas 
 soup. Obs.—'A diachm of allspice, or black 
 pepper, may be pounded with the above as 
 an addition, or instead of the cayenne. 
 
 PEPPER POT. Take as much spinach 
 as will fill a good sized dish, put it in a 
 saucepan without any water, set it on the 
 fire, and let it boil ; then drain off all the li- 
 quor, chop the spinach very fine, and return 
 it to the saucepan, with the water just drain- 
 ed from it, more water, onions, three or four 
 
PER 
 
 138 
 
 PIC 
 
 potatoes, a lettuce or head of endive cut 
 small, the bones of any cold roast meat, if 
 you have them, and half a pound of bacon ; 
 put the whole on the fire, and when it has 
 boiled for about an hour, put in a few suet 
 dumplings ; leave it twenty or thirty min- 
 utes longer; season it well with cayenne, and 
 serve. 
 
 PEPPER POT IN A TUREEN. Stew 
 gently in four quarts of water, till reduced to 
 uiree, three pounds of l>eef, half a pound of 
 lean ham, a bunch of dried thyme, two on- 
 ions, two large potatoes pared and sliced; 
 then strain it through a cullender, and add 
 a large fowl, cut into joints and skinned, 
 half a pound of pickled pork sliced, the 
 meat of one lobster minced, and some small 
 suet dumplings, the size of a walnut. When 
 the fowl is well boiled, add half a peck of 
 spinach, that has been boiled and rubbed 
 through a cullender; season with salt and 
 cayenne. It is very good witliout tlie lean 
 ham and fowl. 
 
 PERCH BOILED. Put them into cold 
 water, and let them boil carefully ; serve widi 
 melted butter and soy. 
 
 PERCH BROILED. Scrape, gut, and 
 wash them ; dry them in a cloth, dust them 
 with flour, and broil them. Sauce ; — melted 
 butter. Or tliey may be broiled without 
 gutting them. They may also be stewed as 
 carp are done. 
 
 PERCH WITH WINE. Having scal- 
 ed and taken out the gills, put the perch into 
 a stewfjan, with equal quantities of stock 
 and white wine, a bay-leaf, a clove of gar- 
 lic, a bunch of parsley and scallions, two 
 cloves, and some salt. When done, lake 
 out the fish, strain ofi" the liquor, the dregs 
 of which mix with some butter and a little 
 flour; beat these up, set fliem on the fire, 
 stirring till quite done, adding pepper, grated 
 nutmeg, and a ball of anchovy butter. Drain 
 the perch well, and dish them with the above 
 
 PERLINGO. Take a pound and a half 
 of sifted flour, and having placed it on your 
 slab, make a hole in the middle of it, into 
 which put three-quarters of a pound of brown 
 sugar, half a pound of fresh butter, the rind 
 of two lemons grated, and ten eggs ; knead 
 all tliese ingredients togetlier well, until you 
 have a pretty firm paste ; if it should Ije too 
 thin, add a handful more flour. Then cut 
 the paste into email pieces, each of which 
 roll in ihe palms of your hands, till they are 
 tlie lenglli and thickness of your finger ; take 
 a round stick (about half the diameter of your 
 
 paste), press this down on each of the 
 pieces, so that they may be tlieir original 
 thickness on one side, and tliin on the other ; 
 when all are thus pressed, form them into 
 little crowns (the flat side inwards, and the 
 thin end uppermost), lay them on white pa- 
 per, and bake them in a moderate oven ; in 
 the meanwhile, make some white sugar var- 
 nish or icing, and when the perlingoa are 
 sufficiently done, dip them carefully in the 
 varnish, one by one; then replace them in 
 the oven, a minute or two, to dry. 
 
 PERRY. Pen-y is a pleasant and whole- 
 some liquor, made from the juice of pears, 
 by means of fermentation, somewhat in the 
 same manner as cider is made from apples. 
 
 PETTITOES. Boil the feet, the liver, 
 and tlie heait, of a sucking pig, in a little 
 water, very gently, then split the feet, and 
 cut the meat very small, and simmer it with 
 a little of the water till the feet are perfectly 
 tender; thicken with a bit of butter, a little 
 flour, a spoonful of cream, and a little pepper 
 and salt ; give it a boil up, pour it over a few 
 sippets of bread, put the feet on the mince. 
 
 PICKLE FOR MEAT. Six poimds 
 of salt, one pound of sugar, and four ounces 
 of saltpetre, boiled with four g'allons of water, 
 skimmed, and allowed to cool, forms a very 
 strong pickle, which will preserve any meat 
 completely immersed in it. To eflect this, 
 which is essential, either a heavy board or a 
 flat stone must be laid upon the meat. The 
 same pickle n)ay be used repeatedly, provided 
 it be boiled up occasionally with additional 
 salt to restore its strength, diminished by the 
 combination of part of the salt with the 
 meat, and by the dilution of the pickle by 
 the juices of the meat extracted. By boiling, 
 the albumen, which would cause the pickle 
 to spoil, is coagulated, and rises in the form 
 of scum, wliicii must be carefully removed. 
 
 An H-bone, of ten or twelve pounds, 
 weight will require about ihree-f^uartos of a 
 pound of salt, and an ounce of moist sugar, 
 to be well rubbed into it. It will he ready 
 in four or five days, if turned and rubbed 
 every day. 
 
 The time meat requires salting depends 
 upon the weight of it, and how much salt is 
 used: and if it be rubbed in with a hea^y 
 hand, it will te ready much sooner than if 
 only lightly rubbed, 
 
 N. B. Dry the salt, and rub it with the 
 sugar in a mortar. 
 
 Pork requires a longer time to cure (in 
 
 proportion to its weight) than beef. A leg 
 
 of poik should 1)6 in salt eight or ten days ; 
 
 turn it and rub it every day. 
 
 I Salt meat should be well washed before it 
 
PIE 
 
 139 
 
 PIE 
 
 is "Ifciled, especially if it has been in salt 
 long, tliat the liquor in which the meat is 
 boiled, may not be too salt to make soup of. 
 If it has been in salt a long time, and you 
 fear that it will be too salt, wash it well in 
 cold water, and soak it in luke-warra water 
 for a couple of hours. If it is very salt, 
 lay it in water the night before you intend to 
 dress it. 
 
 PICKLE FOR TONGUES. To four 
 gallons of water, add two pounds and a 
 half of treacle, eight pounds of salt, two 
 ounces of saltpetre ; boil it, and skim it un- 
 til clear, sprinkle salt over the tongue, and 
 let it stand two days, wipe it clean before 
 you put it into the pickle, which must be quite 
 cold; boil the pickle, every two or three 
 months, adding two or three handfuls of salt, 
 skimming it well. Half the quantity is suf- 
 ficient for two tongues. 
 
 PICKLE FOR BEEF. Allow to four 
 gallons of water two (rounds of brown sugar 
 and six puinds of salt, boil it about twenty 
 minutes, taking off the scum as it rises; the 
 following day pour it over tlie meat which 
 has been packed into the pickling-tub. Boil 
 it every two months, adding three ounces of 
 brown sugar and half a pound of common 
 salt. By this means it will keep good a 
 year. The meat must be sprinkled with 
 salt, and the next day vyiped dry, before 
 pouring the pickle over it, with which it 
 should always be completely covered. With 
 tlie addition of two ounces of saltpetre and 
 one pound of salt, this pickle answers for 
 pickled pork, hams, and tongues. The 
 tongues sliould be rubbed with common salt, 
 to cleanse them, and afterwards witli a little 
 saltpetre, and allowed to lie four or five days 
 before they are put into the pickle. The 
 meat will be ready for use in eight or ten 
 days, and will keep for three months. 
 
 PICKLES. Pickles ought to be stored 
 in a dry place and the vessels most approv- 
 ed of for keeping them in, are wide-moutli- 
 ed glass bottles, or strong stone-ware jars, 
 having coiks or bungs, which must \)e fitted 
 in widi linen, and covered with bladder or 
 leather ; and for taking the pickles out and 
 returning them to the jar, a small wooden 
 spoon is kept. The strongest vinegar is 
 used for pickling; that of cider more partic- 
 ularly recommended, but sugar vinegar will 
 generally l)e found sufficiently strong. It is 
 essential to the excellence and beauty of 
 pickles, that they be always completely cov- 
 ered with vinegiir. 
 
 See Hot Pickles, India Pickles, Onions, 
 Cucumbers, Sfc. fyc. 
 
 PIE, ANGLO-FRANCAIS. Take a 
 
 deep dish, line the edge with puflf paste like 
 a common pie ; stew a quarter of a pound 
 of rice with some sugar until quite soft and 
 sweet ; take a pound of ripe juicy cherries, 
 which pick and roll in a quarter of a pound 
 of powder-sugar, and lay about a quarter of 
 them at the bottom of the dish ; cover these 
 with a fourdi part of the rice, then the cher- 
 ries again, and so on till your materials are 
 used, taking care to keep the pie high in the 
 middle ; cover it with a layer of pufF paste, 
 which wash over lightly with some white of 
 egg, and strew a little powder-sugar over; 
 put it in a moderate oven for an hour and a 
 quarter; then take it out, mask the crust 
 with apricot marmalade, and a few maca- 
 roons crushed. Serve it eidier hot or cold. 
 
 PIE, APPLE. (1) Take eight russe- 
 tings, or lemon pippin apples; pare, core, 
 and cut not smaller than quarters; place 
 them as close as possible together into a pie- 
 dish, with four cloves; rub together in a 
 mortar some lemon-peel, \\'\i\\ four ounces 
 of good moist sugai", and, if agreeable, add 
 some quince jam ; cover it with puff paste ; 
 bake it an hour and a quarter. (Genei-ally 
 eaten warm). 
 
 PIE, APPLE. (2) Pare, quarter, and 
 core die apples; cut them into thin bits. 
 Put into the bottom of a pie-dish a table- 
 spoonful of brown sugar, with a tea-spoon- 
 fol of grated ginger and lemon-peel, then 
 a layer of apples, and so on alternately, 
 till the dish is piled as full as it will hold. 
 The next day wet die rim of the dish, line 
 it with puff or tart paste, brush it with wa- 
 ter, and cover it with paste; press die edge 
 all round, notch it witli a paste-cutter, and 
 make a small hole with the point of a knife 
 in the middle. It may be seasoned wiUi 
 two table-spoonfuls of lemon or orange mar- 
 malade, pounded cinnamon, mace, and 
 cloves, in addition to the ginger and lemon- 
 peel. 
 
 PIE, APPLE WITH MUSCADEL 
 RAISINS. Peel twenty renneting apples, 
 cut them in quarters, and then cut each quar- 
 ter into five or six pieces; toss them in a 
 |Xin with four ounces of sugar in powder, 
 (over which should be grated the peel of a 
 lemon), four ounces of butter lukewarm, 
 and four ounces of fine muscadel plums. 
 Line the edge of a deep dish with a good 
 puff paste, then put in your fniit, and cover 
 j your dish with a good puff paste a cjuarter 
 of an inch in thickness, glaze with the white 
 of an egg, and strew sti<^tir over it. Let it 
 bake an hour in a moderate oven, and serve 
 it hot. 
 
 PIE, APRICOT. Line a dish widi puff 
 
PIE 
 
 140 
 
 PIE 
 
 \yaste, and then put in eighteen fine apricots, 
 (cut in halves and the stones taken out,) 
 with four ounces of sugar in powder, and 
 four ounces of butter lukewarm. Then lay 
 on the upi^er crust, glaze with die white of 
 egg, and strew sifted sugar all over. Let it 
 Ixike in a moderate oveu to a nice light col- 
 or. Serve it hot. When you wish to serve 
 it cold, you must leave out the butter. 
 
 PIE, BEEF KIDNEY. Cut some kid. 
 neys into thin slices, and place them in 
 -the bottom of yom* pie-dish, then sweet 
 herbs chopped, such as parsley, thyme, shal- 
 lots, mushrooms, |3epper, and salt; con- 
 tinue this till the dish is full, then cover the 
 ■whole with slices of bacon, then finish your 
 pie ; bake it in die o\'en ; when done, take 
 out the bacon, and skim off the fat; make a 
 sauce w ith a glass of white wine, a tolerable 
 quantity of cullis, and reduce it to the con- 
 sistence of a good sauce, then squeeze an 
 orange in it. Serve your pie hot. 
 
 PIE, BEEF-STEAK. Cut the steaks off 
 a rump, or any nice piece of beef, fat and 
 lean together, about half an inch thick ; Ixjat 
 them a little vvidi a rolling-pin, put over 
 tliein some f)epper, salt, and parboiled onion 
 minced ; roll them up, and pack them neatly 
 into the disii, or lay the beef in slices; add 
 some spoonfuls of gravy, and a tea-spoonful 
 of vinegar. Cover the' pie with a puff paste, 
 and bake it for an hour. It is a common 
 but mistaken opinion, that it is necessary 
 to put stock or water into meat pies. Beef, 
 mutton, veal, and pork, if not previously 
 dressed, will be found to yield a sulliciency 
 of gravy, and the pie will be better without 
 any additional liquid. N. B. — Large oys- 
 ters, parboiled, bearded, and laid alternately 
 with the steaks, their liquor reduced and 
 substituted instead of the ketchup and wine, 
 will be a variety. 
 
 PIE, CHICKEN. Parboil, and then 
 cut up neatly two young chickens ; dry them ; 
 set them over a slow fire for a few minutes; 
 liave ready some veal stuffing or forcemeat, 
 lay it at the bottom of the dish, and place in 
 the chickens upon it, and with it some pie- 
 ces of dressed ham; cover it with paste. 
 Bake it from an hour and a half to two 
 hours ; when sent to table, add some good 
 gravy, well seasoned, and not too thick. 
 Duck pie is made in like manner, only sub- 
 stituting the duck stuffing instead of the veal, 
 N. B. — The above may be put into a raised 
 French crust and baked; when done, take 
 off the top, and put a ragout of sweetbread 
 to the chicken. 
 
 PIE, COD. Lay a fine jiiece of fresh 
 cod in salt for several hours, then wash it 
 
 well, season it with pepper, salt, nutmeg and 
 mace; place it in a dish, with a little but- 
 ter and some good stock. Lay a crust over, 
 and bake it ; when done, pour in a sauce, 
 made as follows: — a spoonful of stock, a 
 quarter of a pint of cream, flour and butter, 
 grate irt a Httle nutmeg and lemon-peel, and 
 a few oysters, boil die whole once. 
 
 PIE, COLD BEEF, VEAL, OR MUT- 
 TON. Pound in a mortar some Ixjiled po- 
 tatoes; boil a cupful of milk, and while hot, 
 mix it with the potatoes, and beat them till 
 they become like a light paste; roll it out, 
 cut it widi a flat dish, the size of a pie dish, 
 so as it may be laid from oflf it upon the 
 pie ; cut the meat into slices, season it with 
 pepper and salt, put half a pint of gravy, wet 
 the edges of the dish, and put over it die 
 paste, and bake it till the paste be sufficiently 
 done. 
 
 PIE, DEVIZES. Cut into xeiy thin 
 slices, after being dressed, cold calf's head, 
 with some of the brains, pickled tongue, 
 sweetbreads, lamb, veal, a few slices of ba- 
 con, and hard-boiled eggs; put them in lay- 
 ers into a |)ie-dish, vvidi plenty of seasoning 
 Ijctween each, of cayenne, white pepper, 
 allspice, and salt; fill up the dish with rich 
 gravy ; cover it with a flour and water paste ; 
 bake it in a slow oven, and when perfectly 
 cold, take off the crust, and turn the pie out 
 upon a dish; garnish it with parsley and 
 pickled eggs cut into slices. 
 
 PIE, DUCK. Scald a couple of ducks, 
 and make them very clean ; cut off the feet, 
 pinions, necks, and heads. Take out the 
 gizzards, livers, and hearts; pick all clean, 
 and scald them. Pick out the fat of the in- 
 side, lay a good pufl-paste crust all over the 
 dish, season the ducks both inside and out, 
 with pepper and salt, and lay diem in die 
 dish, with the giblets at each end, projierly 
 seasoned. Put in as much water as will 
 nearly fill the pie, lay on the ciust, and let it 
 be well baked. 
 
 PIES, EGG MINCE. Boil six eggs 
 until they are hard, shred them small; shred 
 double the quantity of suet; then add one 
 jKiund of currants picked and washed, (if 
 the eggs were large you must use more cur- 
 rants) the peel of one lemon shred very fine, 
 and the juice, six spoonfuls of sweet wine, 
 mace, nutmeg, sugar, a very small quantity 
 of salt, orange, lemon, and citron candied. 
 Make a light paste for them. 
 
 PIE, FRENCH. Mince some cold roast 
 veal togedier with a little ham, season it 
 highly with pepper, salt, mace, and lemon- 
 peel ; add a large table-spoonful of mush- 
 
PIE 
 
 141' 
 
 PIE 
 
 room ketchup, and a quarter of a hundred 
 of oysters, widi their liquor, and three or 
 foiir table-spoonfuls of rich gravy. Line a 
 dish witii puft" paste, put in die ingredients, 
 cover the pie, aiid let it remain in die oven 
 long enough to bake the paste. 
 
 PIE, GIBLET. Stew the giblets in a 
 little water, with an onion stuck widi two or 
 three cloves, a bunch of sweet herbs, some 
 salt, and whole pepper; cut a fowl into 
 joints, skin and wash it, season it with pep- 
 per, salt, and lialf an onion finely minced. 
 Take out die onion, herbs, and whole pep- 
 per; put die fowl, giblets, and gravy into a 
 dish, add a glass of white wine, and two ta- 
 ble-sfK5onfuls of mushroom ketchup; cover 
 the dish with puff paRte, and bake it for an 
 hour. 
 
 PIE, GOOSE. Prepare a very strong 
 raised crust, and make the sides diick and 
 stiff. Take the bones out of a goose, tur- 
 key, and fowl, cutting each down the back ; 
 season them highly with pepper, salt, mace, 
 cloves, and nutmeg, all finely pounded and 
 well mixed. Lay die goose upon a dish, 
 with the breast skin next die dish ; lay in 
 the turkey, put some slices of boiled ham 
 and tongue, and then the fowl ; cover it with 
 little biS of ham or bacon. Put it all into 
 the pie, made of an oval form, and the sides 
 to stand an inch and a half above the meat ; 
 put on the top, and make a hole in die cen- 
 tre of it. Brush the outside of die pie all 
 over with the beaten whites of eggs, and 
 bind it round with diree folds of buttered 
 paper ; paste the top over in the same way, 
 and when it comes out of the oven, take off 
 the paper, and pour in at the top, through a 
 fuimel, a pound and a half of melted butter. 
 
 PIES, LOBSTER. See Lobster. 
 
 PIE, ITALIAN. Mix together some 
 chopped thyme, parsley, and one or two sage 
 leaves, some salt, white and cayenne pep- 
 per; lay into die bottom of a dish some thin 
 slices of lean veal, sprinkle them with the 
 seasoning, and add slices of ham, and a few 
 forcemeat balls; put a layer of seasoned 
 veal, and of ham and forcemeat balls, till die 
 dish is full, and then add the yolks of five 
 hard-boiled eggs, and some good white stock ; 
 cover the dish with a puff paste, and bake 
 it for an hour. Before serving, pour in, 
 thi-ougli a funnel at the centre of the crust, 
 a tea-cupful of rich cream. 
 
 PIES, MAIGRE FISH. Salt-fish pie. 
 The thickest part must be chosen, and put 
 in cold water to soak the night before want- 
 ed; then boil it well, take it up, take away 
 tlie bones and skin, and if it is good fish it 
 
 will be in fine layers ; set it on a fish-drain- 
 er to get cold: in the meantime, boil four 
 eggs hard, peel and slice them very thin, 
 the same quantity of onion sliced thin ; line 
 the bottom of a pie-dish with fish forcemeat, 
 or a layer of potatoes sliced thin, then a 
 layer of onions, then of fish, and of eggs, and 
 60 on till the dish is full ; season each layer 
 with a little pepper, then mix a tea-spoonful 
 of made mustard, the same of essence of an- 
 chovy, a little mushroom ketchup, in a gill 
 of water, put it in die dish, dien put on the 
 top an ounce of fresh butter broke in bits ; 
 cover it with puff paste, and bake it one 
 hour. Fresh cod may be done in the same 
 way, by adding a little salt. All fish for 
 making pies, whether soles, flounders, her- 
 rings, salmon, lobster, eels, trout, tench, &c. 
 should be dressed first; this is die most 
 economical way for Cadiolic families. 
 
 PIES, MINCE. (1) Carefully stone and 
 cut, but not too small, one pound and a half 
 of bloom raisins ; cut small half a pound of 
 orange-peel, mince finely half a dozen of 
 middling-sized good apples, a quarter of a 
 pound of sweet almonds, pounded to a paste 
 with a little white wine, half a nutmeg grat- 
 ed, a quarter of an ounce of pepper, one 
 head of clove, and a little cinnamon pound- 
 ed ; one pound and a half of fresh beef suet, 
 finely minced, one pound of good brown su- 
 gar; mix all these ingredients extremely 
 well, and add half a pint of white wine, and 
 one glass of brandy. Pack it closely into 
 small stone jars, and tie them over with pa- 
 per. When it is to be used, add a little more 
 wine. 
 
 PIES, MINCE. (2) Cut the root off a 
 neat's tongue, rub the tongue well with salt, 
 let it lie four days, wash it perfecdy clean, 
 and boil it till it becomes tender ; skin, and 
 when cold, chop it very finely. Mince as 
 small as possible two pounds of fresh beef 
 suet from the sirloin, stone and cut small two 
 pounds of bloom raisins, clean nicely two 
 pounds of currants, pound and sift half an 
 ounce of mace and a quarter of an ounce of 
 cloves, grate a large nutmeg ; mix all these 
 jngredients Uioroughly, together widi one 
 pound and a half of good brown sugar. 
 Pack it in jars. When it is to be used, al- 
 low, for the quantity sufficient to make 
 twelve small mince pies, five finely-minced 
 apples, die grated rind and juice of a large 
 lemon, and a wine-glass and a half of brandy ; 
 put into each a few bits of citron and pre- 
 served orange-peel. Three or four whole 
 green lemons, preserved in good brown su- 
 gar, and cut into diin slices, may be added 
 to the mince meat. 
 
 PIES, BRANDY, MINCE. Clean a 
 
PIE 
 
 142 
 
 PIE 
 
 pound of currants, mince a pound of non- 
 pareil apples, and one of fresh beef suet; 
 pound a pound of loaf sugar ; weigh each 
 article after being prepared ; the peel of two 
 lemons grated, and tlie juice of one ; a quar- 
 ter of a pound of citron, the same of orange- 
 peel minced. Mix all these ingredients 
 well with a quart of brandy. 
 
 PIES, LEMON MINCE. Weigh one 
 pound of fine large lemons, cut them in half, 
 squeeze out the juice, and pick the pulp from 
 tlie skins; boil them in water till tender, 
 and pound them in a mortar; add half a 
 pound of pounded loaf sugar, the same of 
 nicely cleaned currants, and of fresh beef 
 suet minced, a little grated nutmeg, and 
 citron cut small. Mix all these ingredients 
 well, and fill the patty-pans with rather more 
 of tlie mince than is usually put. 
 
 PIE, MUTTON OR VEAL. Cut into 
 chops, aftd trim neatly, and cut away the 
 greatest part of the fat of a loin, or best end 
 of a neck of mutton (the former the best), 
 season them, and lay them in a pie-dish, 
 witli a little water and half a gill of mush- 
 room ketchup (chopped onion and potatoes, 
 if approved) ; cover it with paste, bake it 
 two hours ; when done, lift up the crust from 
 tlie dish with a knife, pour out all the gravy, 
 let it stand, and skim it clean; add, if 
 wanted, some more seasoning; make it boil, 
 and pour it into the pie. Veal pie may be 
 made of tlie brisket part of the breast; but 
 must be parboiled first. 
 
 PIE, PIGEON OR LARK. Truss 
 half a dozen fine large pigeons as for stew- 
 ing, season tliem with pepper and salt ; lay 
 at the bottom of the dish a rump-steak of 
 about a pound weight, cut into pieces and 
 trimmed neatly, seasoned, and beat out with 
 a chopjMjr: on it lay the pigeons, the yolks 
 of three eggs boiled hard, and a gill of broth 
 or water, and over these a layer of steaks ; 
 wet the edge of the dish, and cover it over 
 with puff paste, or tlie paste as directed for 
 seasoned pies; wash it over with yolk of 
 egg, and ornament it witli leaves of paste and 
 the feet of the pigeons ; bake it an hour and 
 a half in a moderate-heated oven : before it 
 is sent to table make an aperture in the top, 
 and pour in some good gravy quite hot. 
 
 PIE, RAISED PORK. Make a rais- 
 ed crust, of a good size, about four inches 
 high ; take the rind and chine bone from a 
 loin of pork, cut it into chops, beat them 
 with a chopper, seiison them with pepper 
 and salt, and fill your pie ; put on the top 
 and close it, and pinch it round the edge; 
 rub it over with yolk of egg, and bake it two 
 hours \vith a paper over it, to prevent the 
 
 crust from burning. When done, pour ra 
 some good gravy, with a little ready-mixed 
 mustard (if approved). N. B. — As tlie 
 above is generally eaten cold, it is an excel- 
 lent repast for a journey, and will keep for 
 several days. 
 
 PIE, POTATO. Peel and slice your 
 potatoes very thin into a pie-dish ; between 
 each layer of potatoes put a little chopped 
 onion (three-quarters of an ounce of onion is 
 sufficient for a pound of potatoes) ; between 
 each layer sprinkle a little pepper and salt; 
 put in a little water, and cut about two 
 ounces of fresh butter into little bits, and lay 
 them on the top: cover it close with puft' 
 paste. It will take about an hour and a half 
 to bake it. N. B. The yolks of four eggs 
 (boiled hard) may be added; and when 
 baked, a table-spoonful of good mushroom 
 ketchup poured in through a funnel. 06s. — 
 Cauliflowers divided into mouthfuls, and 
 button onions, seasoned with cun-y-powder, 
 &c. make a favorite vegetable pie. 
 
 PIES, RAISED, MUTTON OR 
 PORK. Put two pounds and a half of flour 
 on tlie paste-board ; and put on the fire, in a 
 saucepan, tlu'ee-quarters of a pint of water, 
 and half a pound of good lard ; when tlie 
 water boils, make a hole in the middle of 
 the flour, pour in the water and lard by de- 
 grees, gently mixing the flour Avith it with 
 a sjx)on ; and when it is well mixed, then 
 knead it with your hands till it becomes stifi": 
 dredge a little flour to prevent its sticking to 
 tlie board, or you cannot make it look smooth: 
 do not roll it with the rolling-pin, but roll it 
 with your hands, about the tliickness of a 
 quart pot ; cut it into six pieces, leaving a 
 little for the covers; put one hand in the 
 middle, and keep the other close on the out- 
 side till you have worked it either in an oval 
 or a round shape: have your meat ready cut, 
 and seasoned with pepper and salt: if pork, 
 cut in small slices; the griskin is the best 
 for pasties: if you use mutton, cut it in very 
 neat cutlets, and put them in the pies as you 
 make them; roll out the covers with the 
 rolling-pin just the size of the pie, wet it 
 round the edge, put it on the pie, and press 
 it together with your thumb and finger, and 
 then cut it all round with a pair of scissors 
 quite even, and pinch them inside and out, 
 and bake them an hour and a half 
 
 PIE, RAISED FRENCH. Make 
 
 about two pounds of flour into a paste ; knead 
 it well, and into the shape of a ball ; press 
 your diumb into the centre, and work it by 
 degrees into any shape (oval or round is the 
 most general), till about five inches high; 
 put it on a sheet of paper, and fill it with 
 coarse flour or bran; roll out a covering for 
 
PIE 
 
 143 
 
 PIG 
 
 it about the same thickness as the sides ; ce- 
 ment its sides with the yolk of egg ; cut the 
 edges quite even, and pinch it roiuid with die 
 finger and thumb, rub yolk of egg over it with 
 a paste-brush, and ornament it in any way 
 fancy may direct, with the same kind of 
 paste. Bake it of a fine brown color, in a 
 slow oven ; and when done, cut out the top, 
 remove the flour or bran, brush it quite 
 clean, and fill it up with a fricassee of chick- 
 en, rabbit, or any other entree most conve- 
 nient. Send it to table widi a napkin under. 
 
 PIE, HAM RAISED. Soak a small 
 ham four or five hours ; wash and scrape it 
 well; cut off the knuckle, and boil it for 
 half an hour ; then take it up and trim it very 
 neatly ; take off the rind and put it into an 
 oval stewpan, with a pint of Madeira or 
 Sheri-y, and enough veal stock to cover it. 
 Let it stew for two hours, or till three parts 
 done; take it out and set it in a cold 
 place ; then raise a crust as in the foregoing 
 receipt, large enough to receive it ; put in 
 tlie ham, and round it tlie veal forcemeat; 
 cover and ornament ; it will take about an 
 hour and a half to bake in a slow oven: 
 when done, take off the cover, glaze the top, 
 and pour round the following sauce, viz. tike 
 the liquor the ham was stewed in; skim it 
 free from fat ; tliicken with a little flour and 
 butler mixed together ; a few drops of brown- 
 ing, and some cayenne pepper. 
 
 PIE, SEA. Skin and cut into joints a 
 large fowl ; wash and lay it into cold water 
 for an hour; cut some salt beef into diin 
 slices, and if it is very salt, soak it a short 
 time in water; make a paste of flour and 
 butter in the proportion of half a pound of 
 butter to one of flour, cut it into round pieces 
 according to the size of the bottom of the 
 pot in which the pie is to be stewed; rub 
 with butter the bottom of a round iron pot, 
 and lay in a layer of the beef, seasoned with 
 pepper, and finely-minced onion ; tiien put a 
 layer of the paste, and then the fowl, highly 
 seasoned with pepjier, onion, and a little 
 salt ; add another layer of paste, and pour 
 in three pints of cold water ; cover the pot 
 closely, and let ii stew gently for nearly four 
 hours, taking care it does not burn, which, j 
 if neglected, it is apt to do. It is served in i 
 a pudding dish, and answers well for a family j 
 dinner. 
 
 PIE, SQUAB, OR DEVONSHIRE. | 
 Talie a few good baking-apples, pare, core, j 
 and slice them; chop some onions very j 
 small; line a deep dish with paste, put in a \ 
 layer of the apples, strew a little sugar, and | 
 some of the chopped onions over them ; sea- ! 
 son them, and lay lean mutton chops, also 
 seasoned, more onions, tiien the apples, &c. 
 
 as before, and so on till the dish is quite 
 full ; cover, and bake the pie. 
 
 PIE, SQUASH. One pint of squash, 
 stewed and strained; one pint of milk, and 
 one of cream ; ten eggs ; half teacup of rose- 
 water; quarter pound of sugar, and one 
 grated nutmeg. Bake in plates lined with 
 puff paste. 
 
 PIE, SWEETBREAD. Parboil five 
 or six sweetbreads; cut them into two or 
 three pieces, stew them ten or fifteen minutes 
 in a little white stock, witli some chopped 
 shallot, a bit of butter rolled in flour, some 
 salt, and white pepper, and a good many 
 mushrooms. Put them into a pie-dish, with 
 some asparagus tops, forcemeat balls, and 
 hard-boiled yolks of eggs, and slices of fat 
 bacon on the top ; cover it, and bake it till 
 the paste be done enough ; or it may be put 
 into a vol-au-vent, and served upon a nap- 
 kin; or baked in a plate. 
 
 PIE, VEGETABLE. Of a variety of 
 vegetables, such as carrots, turnips, pota- 
 toes, artichoke bottoms, cauliflower, French 
 beans, peas, and small button onions, equal 
 quantities of each ; half boil Uiem in good 
 broth for a short time, put them into a pie 
 dish, cover it with puff paste, and bake it in 
 a slow oven ; make a gravy of a bit of veal, 
 a slice of ham, pepper, salt, a bay leaf, mush- 
 rooms, shallots, parsley, and an onion ; when 
 it has boiled tliick, strain the liquor, and mix 
 in three or foiu" table-spoonfuls of cream, and 
 pour it into the pie before being served. The 
 ci-eam may be omitted. 
 
 PIG, Is in prime order for tlie spit when 
 about tliree weeks old. 
 
 It loses part of its goodness eveiy hour af- 
 ter it is killed ; if not quite fresh, no art can 
 make tlie crackling crisp. 
 
 To be in perfection, it should be killed in 
 the morning to be eaten at dinner: it requires 
 very careful roasting. A sucking-pig, like 
 a young child, must not be left for an in- 
 stant. 
 
 Tlje ends must have much more fire than 
 the middle: for this purpose is conti-ived an 
 iron to hang before the middle part, called a 
 pig-iron. If you have not this, use a com- 
 mon flat iron, or keep the fire fiercest at the 
 two ends. 
 
 For the stuffing, take of the crumb of a 
 stale loaf about five ounces; rub it tlirougha 
 colander ; mince fine a handful of sage (i. e, 
 about two ounces), and a large onion (about 
 an ounce and a half). Mix these together 
 with an egg, some pepper and salt, and a bit 
 of butter as big as an egg> Fill the belly of 
 the pig with this, and sew it up: lay it to 
 die fire, and baste it widi salad oil till it is 
 
PIG 
 
 144 
 
 PIG 
 
 quite done. Do not leave it a moment : it 
 requires the most vigilant attendance. 
 
 Roast it at a clear, brisk fii-e at some dis- 
 tance. To gain the praise of epicurean pig- 
 eaters, the crackling must be nicely crisped 
 and delicately lightly browned, without be- 
 ing either blistered or burnt. 
 
 A small, three weeks old pig will be done 
 enough in about an hour and a half. 
 
 Before you take it from die fire, cut off the 
 bead, and part that and the body down the 
 middle: chop the brains very fine, with some 
 boiled sage leaves, and mix them wiUi good 
 veal gravy, or beef gravy, or what runs from 
 the pig when you cut its head off. Send up 
 a tureenful of gravy besides. Currant sauce 
 is still a favorite with some of the old school. 
 
 Lay your pig back to back in the di;;li, 
 witli one half of the head on each side, and 
 the ears one at each end, which you must 
 take care to make nice and crisp ; or you 
 will get scolded, and deservedly, as the silly 
 fellow was who bought his wife a pig with 
 only one ear. 
 
 When you cut off the pettitoes, leave the 
 skin long round the ends of the legs. When 
 you first lay the pig before the fire, rub it all 
 over widi fresh butter or salad oil: ten 
 minutes after, and the skin looks diy; 
 dredge it well with flour all over, let it re- 
 main on an hour, then nib it off with a soft 
 cloth. 
 
 N. B. A pig is a very troublesome subject 
 to roast; most persons have Uiem baked. 
 Send a quarter of a pound of butter, and beg 
 the baker to Ijaste it well. 
 
 PIG, BAKED. Lay your pig in a dish, 
 flour it well all over, then rub jt over Avitli 
 butter ; butter die dish you lay it in, and put 
 it into die oven. When done enough, take 
 it out, and rub it over with a butter cloth ; 
 then put it again into the oven till it is dry, 
 then take it out and lay it in a dish; cut it 
 up, take a little veal gravy, and take off the 
 fat in the dish it was baked in, and there 
 will be some good gravy at the bottom ; put 
 diat to die veal gravy, with a little bit of but- 
 ter, rolled in flour ; boil it up, and put it in 
 a dish in which die pig has been laid, and 
 put the brains widi some sage into die belly. 
 Some persons like a pig to be brought to 
 table whole, in which case you are only to 
 put what sauce you like into die dish. 
 
 PIG, BARBICUED. Scald, &c., a pig, 
 of about nine or ten weeks old, the same as 
 for roasting; make a stuffing with a few 
 sage-leaves, the liver of die pig, and two an- 
 chovies boned, washed, and cut extremely 
 small; put diem into a mortar, widi some 
 bread-crumbs, a quarter of a pound of butter, 
 a very little cayenne pepper, and half a pint 
 of Madeira wine; beat them to a paste, and 
 
 sew it up m the pig ; lay it at a good di 
 before a large brisk fire; singe it well; put 
 two bottles of Madeira wloe into the drip- 
 ping-pan, and keep basting it all the time it 
 IS roasting ; when half done, put two French 
 rolls into the dripjiingpan ; and if diere is not 
 wine enough in the drippingpan, add more: 
 when the pig is nearly done, take the rolls 
 and sauce, and put diem into a saucepan, 
 with an anchovy cut small, a bunch of sweet 
 herbs, and the juice of a lemon ; take up the 
 pig, send it to table with an apple in its 
 mouth, and a roll on each side; then strain 
 die sauce over it. 
 
 Some barbicue a pig of six or seven weeks 
 old, and stick it all over with blanched al- 
 monds, and baste it in the same manner with 
 Madeira wine. 
 
 PIG, TO COLLAR. Cut off the feet, 
 head, and tail ; bone and wash it well, and 
 dry it in a clodi. Season it highly with a 
 quantity of pepper and salt ; roll it up firmly, 
 and bind it with a piece of linen; sew it 
 tightly. Put it on in boiling water, with die 
 bones, let it boil for an hour, then put it un- 
 der a weight to press till it be cold, and take 
 off the cloth. 
 
 PIG'S CHEEK, TO COLLAR. Strew 
 over a pig's face, and a neat's or pig's tongue, 
 a little salt and saltpetre ; let it stand eight 
 or nine days, then boil iheni with two cow- 
 heels, till all be sufficiently tender to admit 
 of the bones being taken out ; lay upon a 
 dish a piece of strong cloth, put the cheek 
 upon it with the rind downwards ; season it 
 highly widi pcpjier, cloves, and a little salt ; 
 add the tongue and cow-heels, with more 
 seasoning; roll and sew it up finiily, put it 
 into a jar and boil it for two hours, dien 
 press it widi a hanvy weight, and when cold 
 take off the clodi. Ttie cow-heel may be 
 omitted, and both cheeks used. 
 
 PIG'S CHEEK, TO CURE. Strew 
 salt over it, and let it lie two or three days, 
 then pour over it the following mixture when 
 it is cold; half a pound of bay salt, li:df an 
 ounce of saltpetre, a cjuarter of a pound of 
 coarse brown sugar, one handful of common 
 salt, and a penny-worth of cochineal, boiled 
 in a pint of strong beer or porter ; let it lie 
 in the pickle a fortnight, turning it daily, 
 then hang it to smoke for a week. When 
 to be dressed, put it into lukewarm water to 
 soak for a night, and in diessing it, follow 
 the directions given for boiling hams. 
 
 PIG'S FEET AND EARS PICKLED. 
 Wash die feet and ears veiy clean, and be- 
 tween every foot put a bay-leaf; when they 
 are well soaked, add some cloves, mace, co-' 
 riander-seed, and ginger; put a bottle of 
 
PIG 
 
 145 
 
 PIG 
 
 white wine to three pair of feet and ears, 
 some bay-leaves, a bunch of sweet herbs; 
 let them boil gently till tlieyare tender, tlien 
 take them out of tlie liquor, lay them in an 
 eardien pan ; when cold, take oft' the fat, 
 and stiaia the liquor over them. They eat 
 well cold, or warmed in the jelly, thickened 
 with butter rolled in flour ; or take die feet and 
 ears out of the jelly, dip them in yolk of egg, 
 and dien in crumbs of bread, and broil Uiem, 
 or fry them in butter ; lay the ears in the 
 middle, and the feet round: or ragout them. 
 
 PIG'S FEET AND EARS SOUSED. 
 
 Clean Uiem, and boil them till diey are ten- 
 der; then split the feet, and put them and 
 tlie ears in salt and water. When you use 
 them, dry them well in a cloth, dip them in 
 batter, fry them, and send them to table with 
 melted butter in a boat. They may be eaten 
 cold, and will keep a considei'able time. 
 
 PIG'S FEET, TO STEW. Clean them 
 well, and boil them till they are tender. 
 Brown some butter with flour, and add it to 
 a quantity of gravy or water sufficient to 
 stew the feet in. Season with a minced 
 onion, three sage leaves, salt, and black pep- 
 per. Cut the feet in two, add them, and 
 cover the pan closely ; let them stew half an 
 hour. A little beftjre serving, mix in half 
 a table-spoonful of lemon pickle or vinegar, 
 and pick out the sage leaves. 
 
 PIG'S HARSLET. (1) Parboil the liver 
 and lights, slice and fry them along widi thin 
 bits of bacon. Garnish with fiied parsley. 
 
 PIG'S HARSLET. (2) Wash and dry j 
 some livers, sweetbreads, and some fat and 
 lean pieces of pork, beating the latter with 
 a rolling-|)in to nrake them tender; season 
 with pei)[)er, salt, and sage, and a little onion 
 shredded fine; when mixed, put all into a 
 cawl, and fasten it tight with a needle and 
 thread, and roast it by a jack, oi- by a string. 
 Or, serve in slices, with parsley, for a fry. | 
 Serve with a sauce of Port wine and water, 
 and mustard, just boiled up, and put it into 
 a dish. 
 
 PIG'S HEAD COLLARED. Veiy 
 nicely scour the head and ears; take off die 
 hair and snout, and take out the eyes and 
 brain ; let it lay for one night in water ; then 
 drain it ; salt it exti-emely well, with com- 
 mon salt and saltpetre, and let it lie for five 
 days. Boil it sufficiently to take out the 
 bones ; then lay it on a dresser, turning tlie 
 thick end of one side of the head towar<£ tlie 
 thick end of the other, to make the roll of an 
 equal size; sprinkle it well -with salt and 
 white pepper, and roll it with the ears; and, 
 if you think proper, put the pig's feet round 
 13 
 
 the outside, when boned, or the thin parts 
 of a couple of cow-heels. Put it into a cloth, 
 bind with a broad tape, and boil it till quite 
 tender ; dien put it under a weight, and do 
 not take oflthe covering until it is quite cold. 
 If you wish it to be more like brawn, salt it 
 longer, and let die proportion of saltpetre be 
 greater, and put in also some pieces of lean 
 jwrk, and then cover it widi cow-heel, to ^ 
 look like the horn. This may be kept either * 
 in or out of pickle of salt and water, boiled 
 with vinegar. If likely to spoil, slice and fry 
 it, either with or widiout batter. 
 
 PIG'S HEAD, TO POT. Split the 
 head of a small pig, take out the brains, cut 
 oflf the ears, and let it lie in cold water for 
 one day, then boil it till all the bones come 
 out ; take off the skin, keeping it as whole 
 as possible. Chop the tongue and all the 
 meat while it is hot; season it highly with 
 pepper, salt, and nutmeg ; place part of the 
 skin at the bottom of a potting-pan or bowl, 
 lay in the chopped meat, and put the rest of 
 the skin over the top; press it down hard, 
 place a small plate upon it, put on Uiat a 
 heavy weight, which must not be taken off 
 till it be perfectly cold. Boil up part of the 
 liquor widi some vinegar and salt, and keep 
 the head in this pickle. It may be served 
 for breakfast or luncheon, and is eaten with 
 vinegar and mustard. 
 
 PIG'S HEAD AND FEET, SOUSED. 
 
 Clean them extremely well and boil them; 
 take for sauce part of the liquor, and add 
 vinegar, lime or lemon juice, salt, cayenne, 
 and i)epper; put in, either cut down or 
 whole, the head and feet ; boil all together 
 f )r an hour, and pour it into a deep dish. 
 It is eaten cold with mustard and vinegar. 
 
 PIG'S KIDNEYS, AND SKIRTS. 
 
 Clean and wash them very nicely, cut the 
 kidneys across, and die skirts into small 
 scjuare bits; fry them a light brown in beef 
 (hipping, brown a bit of butter the size of a 
 walnut, with a little flour, and add as much 
 boiling water as may be required of gravy, 
 and an onion minced small. Add the meat, 
 a little pepper, salt, and mushroom ketchup, 
 and let It stew till tender. 
 
 PIGEONS. Pigeons should be extreme- 
 ly fiesh ; when so, and in good order, they 
 are plump and fat at the vent, and their feet 
 pliable; but when they lue stale, the vent is 
 open, green, and withered. Tame pigeons 
 ai-e considered prefemble to die wild. 
 
 PIGEONS ^HOLE, TO BROIL. 
 
 Clean them well, cut off the wings and neck, 
 leaving skin enough at the neck to tie ; make 
 a forcemeat with bread crumbs, thiee or foxm 
 
PIG 
 
 146 
 
 PIK 
 
 <rf the livers, one anchovy, sonoe parsley 
 minced, and a quarter of a pound of butter ; 
 season with salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg, 
 bind it with the yolk of an egg l>eaten up, and 
 put into each pigeon a piece the size of a large 
 walnut; tie the neck and rump, rub them 
 with butter, and dust them with pepper, salt, 
 and nutmeg mixed ; broil them over a slow 
 fire ; to baste them, put them upon a plate, 
 and with a feather bi-ush them over witli but- 
 ter; broil tliem of a nice brown color; sei"ve 
 them with melted butter and parsley, or a 
 thickened brown gravy. 
 
 PIGEON PIE. Qiop some parsley and 
 lemon thyme, witli a few mushrooms; stew 
 these in a little butter, into which put fialf a 
 dozen young pigeons, with pepper and salt 
 in their insides, and their legs turned in; 
 stew them for a few minutes and turn them ; 
 when they begin to fry, put in sufficient con- 
 somme to cover them, in which let them stew 
 till they are well done ; take them from the 
 fii"e to cool ; in the meantime make a good 
 puff paste, part of which roll out, and place 
 round the edge of a dish ; lay the pigeons in 
 with the yolks of four eggs, boiled hard, and 
 pour over them half of the litiuor they were 
 stewed in ; add a little pepper and salt, then 
 lay on the top paste, trimming it neatly 
 round, the same as jou would any other pie ; 
 on the top form a star of leaves, with a hole 
 in the centre ; egg it lightly over, and put it 
 to bake in a moderate oven, taking care that 
 it has not too much color ; when done, add 
 to the liquor that remained from the pigeons, 
 a little butter sauce, make it very hot, and 
 pour it on the pie. Sene it hot, either for 
 a remove or side dish. 
 
 PIGEONS WITH RICE and Par- 
 mesan Cheese. Pick and wash clean 
 half a dozen nice pigeons, cut them into quar- 
 ters ; brown some butter with flour, add to 
 it a pint of good stock, with three grated 
 onions, some |)epper and salt, stew die pig- 
 eons in this till tender, take them out and 
 mix in the juice of one lemon, boil and strain 
 the sauce over the pigeons. Boil about three- 
 quarters of a pound of whole rice in a pint 
 and a half of stock, with half a pound of fresh 
 butter, some grated nutmeg and salt ; when 
 it is tender, add two handfuls of grated Par- 
 mesan cheese. Put more than half of the 
 rice ecjually round the dish in which the pig- 
 eons are placed, and cover them with what 
 remains, brush it over with a well-beaten 
 egg, and then strew it thickly with more 
 Pai-mesan ; cover a flat baking-tin with salt, 
 place the dish upon this, and bake it for nearly 
 tliree-quarters of an hour ifi a slow oven ; it 
 should be of a fine gold color. 
 
 PIGEONS, TO ROAST. Pick, clean. 
 
 singe, and wash them well ; truss them with 
 three feet on, and put into then) some jiepper 
 and salt. While roasting, baste them with 
 butter. A little before serving, dust them 
 witli flour, and froth them with butter. 
 Roast them for half an hour. Serve them 
 with parsley and butter in the dish, or make 
 a gravy of the giblets, some minced parsley, 
 seasoned with pepper and salt. Thicken 
 witli a little flour and butter; pour it with 
 tlie giblets into tlie dish, and tlien put in the 
 pigeons. 
 
 PIGEONS, STEW. (1) Clean tliem nice- 
 ly, tru9B them as for boiling, put into their in- 
 side some pepper and salt ; brown in a sauce- 
 pan three ounces of butter with a table-spoon- 
 ful of flour, add as much gravy or water as will 
 nearly cover the pigeons, put them in with 
 the livers, gizzards, and pinions, salt, and 
 some miViced parsley, spinach may also be 
 added ; let them stew for three-quarters of 
 an hour; add, a few minutes before serving, 
 the yolks of four or six hard-boiled eggs. 
 
 PIGEONS, STEW. (2) Wash and clean 
 six pigeons, cut them into quarters, and put 
 all their giblets with tliem into a stewpan, a 
 piece of butter, a little water, a bit of lemon- 
 peel, two blades of mace, some chopped pars- 
 ley, salt, and pepper ; cover the pan closely, 
 and stew them till tliey be tender; thicken 
 the sauce with the yolk of an egg beaten up 
 with three table-sjxjonfuls of cream and a bit 
 of butter dusted with flour ; let tliem stew- 
 ten minutes longer before serving. 
 
 PIKE, BAKED. Scrape the scales oflT 
 a large pike, take out the gills, and clean it, 
 without breaking the skin-; stuft' the fish 
 with a forcemeat made of two handfuls of 
 grated bread, one of finely-minced suet, some 
 chopped j)arsley, and a little fresh butler, 
 seasoned with pepper, salt, mace, grated 
 lemon-peel and a nutmeg, pounded ali togeth- 
 er in a mortar, widi two whole eggs. Fasten 
 die tail of the pike into its mouth with a 
 skewer, then dip it, first into a well-beaten 
 egg, and then into grated biead, which repeat 
 twice; baste it over with butter, and bake 
 it in an oven. 
 
 If two of diem are to be served, make one 
 of them of a green color, by mixing a quan- 
 tity of finely-minced parsley with die grated 
 bread. When the fish is of a fine brown 
 color, cover it with paper until it is done. 
 Serve widi a Dutch sauce in a sauce-tureen. 
 
 PIKE, BOILED. Wash clean, and 
 takeout the gills; stuff" them with the follow- 
 ing forcemeat : equal parts of chopped oys- 
 ters, grated bread crumbs, beef suet, or butter, 
 two anchovies, a little onion, pepper, salt, 
 nutmeg, minced parsley, sweet marjoram. 
 
POI 
 
 147 
 
 FOR 
 
 thyme, and savory; an egg to bind it. Stuff 
 the insides, and sew tliein up ; put them on 
 in boiling salt-and- water, with a glass of vin- 
 egar, and let tliem boil half an hour. Sauces ; 
 —oyster, and melted butter. They may 
 also be broiled. 
 
 PILLAU, TO MAKE. Wash very 
 clean two pounds of rioe, stew it till per- 
 fectly tender with a little water, half a 
 pound of butter, some salt, whole pepper, 
 cloves and mace, and keep the stewpan 
 closely covered; boil two fowls and one 
 pound and a half of bacon, put the bacon in 
 the middle, and the fowls on each side, cov- 
 er them all over with the rice, and garnish 
 with hard-boiled eggs and fried whole 
 onions. 
 
 PLOVERS, TO CHOOSE. Choose 
 them by the hardness of the vent, which 
 shows that they are fat; and when new, 
 they are limber-footed. In other respects, 
 choose them by tlie same marks as other 
 fowls. There are tliree sorts; the gray, 
 gi-een, and bastard plover or lapwing. 
 
 PLOVERS, TO DRESS. Green plov- 
 ers should be dressed the same as wood- 
 cocks, without drawing, and served on a 
 toast. Gray plovers should be stewed. — 
 Make a forcemeat with the yolks of two 
 hard eggs bruised, some maiTow cut fine, 
 artichoke bottoms cut small, and sweet 
 herbs, seasoned with pepper, salt, and nut- 
 meg: stuff the birds, and put them into a 
 saucepan, with just a sufficient quc^ntity of 
 good gravy to cover them, one glass of 
 white wine, and a blade of mace; cover 
 them close, and let them stew veiy gently 
 till they are tender; then take up the plov- 
 ers, lay them in a dish, keep them hot ; put 
 a piece of butter roiled in flour, to thicken 
 the sauce, let it boil till smooth; squeeze 
 into it a little lemon; skim it, and pour it 
 over the plovers. 
 
 POINT DE JOUR FRITTERS. Mix 
 
 with two handfuls of flour a glass of sweet 
 wine, a table-spoonful of brandy, and warm 
 milk, sufficient to make it into a paste ; add 
 the well-beaten whites of four eggs, a little 
 minced citron, candied orange-peel or cur- 
 rants; beat it well together, and drop it 
 through a wide tin funnel, into boiling lard. 
 Serve with pounded loaf sugar strewed over 
 them. 
 
 POIVRADE. Put into a stewpan a 
 large bunch of parsley-leaves, some scallions, 
 two bay-leaves, a little thyme, a dessert- 
 spoonful of fine white pepper, a glass of 
 vinegar, and a small quantity of butter ; set 
 the pan on the fire, and reduce the whole 
 
 till nearly all gone, when add two ladlefiils 
 of espagnole, and one of stock; reduce 
 these again to the proper consistence, and 
 strain it for use. 
 
 PORK. Dairy-fed pork is the best; 
 the flesh should look white and smooth, and 
 tlie fat be white and fine. In preparing a 
 hog for bacon i the ribs are cut, witli a very 
 little flesh on them, from the side, which 
 has the fore and hind leg attached to it; 
 the hind leg is then called a gammon of ba- 
 con, but it is generally reserved for a ham. 
 On each side there is a large spare rib, 
 which is usually divided into two, one call- 
 ed the sweet bone, tlie other the blade bone. 
 There are also griskins, chine, or back 
 bone. 
 
 Hog's lard is the inner fet of the bacon 
 hog. 
 
 Porkers are not so old as hogs; they 
 make excellent pickled pork, but are cho- 
 sen more paiticularly for roasting. 
 
 To roast a leg, a small onion is minced 
 together with three sage leaves, seasoned 
 with pepper and salt, and put under the 
 skin at the knuckle bone; the skin is cut 
 into strips nearly ha!f an inch apart, and 
 rubbed over witli a bit of butter. If weigh- 
 ing seven or eight pounds, it will require 
 nearly three hours to roast. 
 
 A spare rib should be" roasted, is basted 
 with butter, and has sage leaves dried, rub- 
 bed to a powder, and mixed with salt and 
 pepper, sprinkled over it. 
 
 Botli a loin and neck are jointed, the 
 skin scored in narrow stt-ips, and rubbed 
 with butter. If weighing six or seven 
 pounds, it will require ratlier more than two 
 hours to roast. 
 
 A griskin may be either broiled or roast- 
 ed. 
 
 A chine is stuffed here and there with 
 bread crumbs, mixed with a little butter, 
 and seasoned with some finely shred sage, 
 parsley, and thyme, some pepper and salt. 
 The skin is cut into strips and rubbed with 
 butter; it is then roasted, and served with 
 apple sauce, as aie also tlie preceding 
 roasts. 
 
 A porker's head is stuffed like a sucking 
 pig, sewed firmly, and hung on a string to 
 roast. 
 
 The shoulder may be roasted, but, being 
 very fat, it is generally preferred pickled. 
 
 The breast may be made into a pie, or 
 broiled. 
 
 To boil hams, they should be put on in 
 water, the chill taken off, and simmered for 
 four or five hours, taking care not to allow 
 them to boil. 
 
 The prime season for pork is from No- 
 vember to March. 
 
 Take particular care it be done enough; 
 
POR 
 
 148 
 
 POR 
 
 oilier meats under-done are unpleasant, but 
 pork is absolutely uneatable ; the sight of it 
 is enough to appal the sharpest appetite, if 
 its gravy has the least tint of redness. 
 
 Be careful of the crackling; if this be 
 not crisp, or if it be burned, you will be 
 scolded. Pickled Pork, takes morc time 
 than any other meat. If you buy yoiu- pork 
 ready salted, ask how many days it has 
 been in salt; if many, it will require to be 
 soaked in water for six hours before you 
 dress it. When you cook it, wash and 
 scrape it as clean as possible; when deli- 
 cately dressed, it is a favorite dish with al- 
 most everybody. Take care it does not 
 boil fest; if it does, the knuckle will break 
 to pieces, before the tliick part of the meat 
 is warm through; a leg of seven pounds 
 takes three hours and a half very slow sim- 
 mering. Skim your pot very carefully, and 
 when you take the meat out of the boiler, 
 scrape it clean. 
 
 A leg of nice pork, nicely salted, and 
 nicely boiled, is as fine a cold relish as cold 
 ham ; especially if, instead of cutting into 
 the middle when hot, and so lettmg out 
 its juices, you cut it at the knuckle: slices 
 broiled are a good luncheon, or supper. 
 
 Mem. — Some persons who sell pork ready 
 sailed have a silly trick of cutting the knuc- 
 kle in two; we suppose that this is done to 
 save their salt ; but it lets all the gravy out 
 of the leg; and unless you Iwil your pork 
 merely for the sake of the pot-liquor, which 
 in this case receives all the goodness and 
 strengtli of the meat, friendly reader, your 
 oracle cautions you to buy no leg of pork 
 which is slit at the knuckle. 
 
 If pork is not done enough, nothing is more 
 disagreeable ; if too much, it not only loses 
 its color and flavor, but its substance be- 
 comes soft like a jelly. 
 
 It must never appear at table without pars- 
 nips; they are an excellent vegetable, and 
 deserve to be much more popular ; or carrots, 
 turnips, and greens, or mashed potatoes, &c. 
 
 Obs. — Remember not to forget the mus- 
 tard-pot. 
 
 PORK, LEG, Of eight pounds, will re- 
 quire about tliree hours : score the skins across 
 in narrow stripes (some score it in dia- 
 monds), about a quarter of an inch apart; 
 stuff die knuckle with sage and onion, minced 
 fine, and a little grated bread, seasoned with 
 pepper, salt, and the yolk of an egg. 
 
 Do not put it too near the fire : rub a little 
 sweet oil on the skin with a paste-brush, or 
 a goose-feather: this makes the crackling 
 crbper and browner than basting it with 
 dripping ; and it will be a better color than 
 all the art of cookery can make it in any 
 other way ; and this is the best way of pre- 
 
 venting tlie skin firom blistering, which W^ 
 principally occasioned by its being put te#'^ 
 near the fire. ^^ 
 
 PORK Spare Rib, Usually weighs about 
 eight or nine pounds, and will take from two 
 to three hours to roast it thoroughly ; not ex- 
 actly according to its weight, but the thick- 
 ness of the meat upon it which varies very 
 much. Lay the thick end nearest to the 
 fire, 
 
 A proper bald spare rib of eight pounds 
 weight (so called because almost all the meal 
 is pared off), with a steady fire, will be done 
 in an hour and a quarter. There is so little 
 meat on a bald spare rib, that if you have a 
 large, fierce fire, it will be burned before it 
 is warm through. Joint it nicely, and crack 
 tlie ribs across as you do ribs of lamb. 
 
 When you put it down to roast, dust on 
 some flour, and baste it with a little butter ; 
 dry a dozeii sage leaves, and rub them through 
 a hair-sieve, and put them into the top of a 
 dredging-box ; and about a quarter of an hour 
 before the meat is done, baste it with button j 
 dust with the pulverized sage. - 
 
 Obs. — Make it a general rale never to 
 pour gi'avy over any thing that is roasted ; 
 by so doing, the dredging, &c. is washed off, 
 and it eats insipid. 
 
 Some people carve a spare rib by cutting 
 out in slices the thick part at the bottom of 
 the bones. When this meat is cut away, 
 the bones may be easily separated, and are 
 esteemed very sweet picking. 
 
 Apple sauce, mashed potatoes, and good 
 mustard are indispensable. 
 
 PORK CHEESE. Choose the head of 
 a small pig which may weigh about twelve 
 pounds the quarter. Sprinkle over it and 
 the tongues of four pigs, a little common salt 
 and a very little saltjietre. Let ihem lie 
 four days, wash them, and tie them in a clean 
 cloth ; boil them until the bones will come 
 easily out of the head, take oft' the skin as 
 whole as possible, place a bowl in hot water 
 and put in the head, cutting it into small 
 pieces. In the bottom of a round tin, shaj^ed 
 like a small cheese, lay two strips of cloth 
 across each other, they must be long enough 
 to fold over the top when the shape is full, 
 place the skin round the tin, and nearly lia 11^ 
 fill it with the meat, which has been highly 
 seasoned with pepper, cayenne and salt ; put 
 in some tongue cut into slices, then the rest of 
 the meat and the remainder of the tongue, 
 draw the clotli tightly across die top ; put on 
 it a lx>ard or a plate that will fit into the shape, 
 and place on it a heavy weight, which must 
 not Ije taken off till it be quite cold. It is 
 eaten witli vinegar and mustai'd, and served 
 for luncheon or supper. 
 
POT 
 
 149 
 
 POT 
 
 POTATOES. The vegetable kingdom 
 affords no food more wholesome, more easily 
 procured, easily prepared, or less expensive, 
 than die potato : yet, although this most useful 
 vegetable is dressed almost every day, in 
 almost every family, for one plate of potatoes 
 that comes to table as it should come, ten are 
 spoiled. 
 
 Wash them, but do not pare or cut them, 
 unless they are very large. Fill a saucepan 
 half full of potatoes of equal size (or make 
 them so by dividing the larger ones), put to 
 them as much cold water as will cover them 
 about an inch: diey are sooner boiled, and 
 more savory, than when drowned in water. 
 Most boiled things are spoiled by having too 
 little water, but potatoes are often spoiled by 
 too much : they must merely be covered, and 
 a little allowed for waste in boiling, so that 
 tliey may Ije just covered at the finish. 
 
 Set them on a moderate fire till ^ey lx)il ; 
 then take them off, and put them by the side 
 of the fire to simmer slowly till they are soft 
 enough to admit a fork (place no dependence 
 on the usual test of their skins' cracking, 
 which, if they are boiled fast, will happen to 
 some potatoes when they are not half done, and 
 the insides quite hard) . I'hen pour the wa- 
 ter off (if you let tlie potatoes remain in the 
 water a moment after they are done enough, 
 they will become waxy and watery), uncover 
 the saucepan, and set it at such a distance 
 from the fire as will secure it from burning; 
 their superfluous moisture wjll evaporate, and 
 the potatoes will be }ierfectly dry and mealy. 
 
 You may afterward place a napkin, folded 
 up to the size of the saucepan's diameter, 
 over the potatoes, to keep them hot and 
 mealy till wanted. 
 
 This method of managing potatoes is in 
 every respect equal to steaming tliem ; and 
 they are dressed in half the time. 
 
 There is such an infinite variety of sorts 
 and sizes of potatoes, that it is impossible to 
 say how long they will take doing: thel)est 
 way is to try them with a fork. Moderate- 
 sized potatoes will generally be done enough 
 in fifteen or twenty minutes. 
 
 POTATOES, NEW. The best way to 
 clean new potatoes is to rub them with a 
 coarse cloth or flannel, or scrubbing-brush. 
 
 New potatoes are poor, watery, and insip- 
 id, till they are full two inches in diameter: 
 they are not worth die trouble of boiling be- 
 fore midsummer day. 
 
 Obs. Some cooks prepare sauces to pour 
 over potatoes, made with butter, salt, and 
 pepper, or gravy, or melted butter and ketch- 
 up; or stew the potatoes in ale, or water 
 seasoned with pepper and salt ; or bake them 
 with herrings or sprats, mixed with layers 
 of potatoes, seasoned with pepf)er, salt, sweet 
 herbs, vinegar, and water ; or cut mutton or 
 13* 
 
 beef into slices, and lay them in a stewpan, 
 and on them potatoes and spices, then anoth- 
 er layer of tlie meat alternately, pouring in 
 a little water, covering it up very close, and 
 boiling it slowly. 
 
 POTATO BALLS. Mix mashed pota- 
 toes with the yolk of an egg; roll them into 
 balls; flour them, or egg and bread-crumb 
 them ; and fry Uiem in clean drippings, or 
 brown tiiem in a Dutch oven. 
 
 POTATO BALLS RAGOUT, Are 
 
 made by bidding to a pound of potatoes a 
 quarter of a pound of grated ham, or some 
 sweet herbs, or chopped parsley, an onion or 
 eschalot, salt, pepper, and a little grated 
 nutmeg, or other spice, with the yolk of a 
 couple of eggs : they are then to be dressed 
 as Potato Balls. 
 
 Obs. An agreeable vegetable relish, and 
 a good supper-dish. 
 
 POTATOES BOILED, TO BROIL. 
 
 After boiling potatoes not quite sufficiently to 
 send to table, put them on a gridiron over a 
 clear fire, and turn them frequently till they are 
 of a nice brown color all over ; serve them 
 hot ; take cai'e they do not become too hai'd, 
 as that spoils the flavor. 
 
 POTATOES, CASSEROLE. Boil and 
 peel some good mealy potatoes, pound them, 
 and mix with them some butter, cream, and 
 a little salt, put tliem about an inch and a 
 half high upon a flat dish, and leave an open- 
 ing in the centre ; bake them of a light brown 
 color, and take out as much fiom the centi'e 
 as will admit of a ragout, fricassee, or mac- 
 aroni, being put into it. . 
 
 POTATOES, COLCANNON. Boil 
 
 potatoes and greens, or spinage, separately; 
 mash the potatoes ; squeeze the greens di*y ; 
 chop them quite fine and mix them with the 
 potatoes, with a little butter, pepper, and 
 salt ; put it into a mould, buttering it well 
 first; let it stand in a hot oven for ten min- 
 
 POTATO CROQUETTES. When 
 
 boiled and peeled, allow four large mealy 
 potatoes, half their weight of butter and of 
 pounded loaf sugar, two eggs beaten, half 
 the grated peel of a lemon, and a little salt ; 
 pound the |)otatoes in a mortar with tlie 
 other ingredients; beat the yolks of four 
 eggs; roll up the croquettes ; dip them into 
 the beaten eggs, and roll them in sifted bread 
 crumbs; in an hour, roll them again as be- 
 fore, and fry them in butter; put them upon 
 the back of a sieve before the fire to drain. 
 
 POTATO EGGS. Mash perfectly 
 
POT 
 
 150 
 
 POT 
 
 smooth six or seven boiled potatoes, add a 
 piece of butter the size of a walnut, the bea- 
 ten yolk of an egg, half an onion pounded, 
 a little boiled minced parsley, some j)epjx;r 
 and salt; make it into the form of small 
 eggs or pears, roll them into a well-beaten 
 egg, and then into grated bread seasoned, 
 with pepper and sail ; fry them in plenty of 
 lard or dripping till they are of a fine brown 
 color, lay tliem before the fire to drain; 
 serve them with a fringe of fi-ied parsley. 
 
 POTATOES FRIED IN SLICES 
 OR RIBBONS. Peel large potatoes ; slice 
 them about a quarter of an inch thick, or 
 cut them in shavings round and round, as 
 you would peel a lemon ; di-y them well in a 
 clean cloth, and fry them in lard or dripping. 
 Take car^ that your fat and frying-pan are 
 quite clean; put it on a quick fire, watch it, 
 and as soon as the lard boils, and is still, 
 put in the slices of potato, and keep moving 
 them till they are crisp. Take them up, 
 and lay them to di-ain on a sieve : send them 
 up with a very little salt sprinkled over them. 
 
 POTATOES FRIED WHOLE. When 
 nearly boiled enough, put them into a stew- 
 pan with a bit of butter, or some nice clean 
 beef-drippings ; shake them about often (for 
 fear of burning them), till they are brown 
 and crisp ; drain them from the fat. Obs. — 
 It will be an elegant in>iirovement previous 
 to frying or broiling the potatoes, to flour 
 them and dip them in the yolk of an egg, 
 and then roll thfem in fine-sifted bread- 
 crumbs ; they will then deserve to be called 
 
 POTATOES FULL DRESSED. 
 
 POTATOES RAW OR COLD, TO 
 FRY. Wash, peel, and put them into cold 
 water for one or two hours, cut them into 
 slices about half an inch thick, and fry them 
 a light brown in boiling clarified beef suet. 
 Cold boiled potatoes, cut in slices, may be 
 done in the same manner. 
 
 POTATO FRITTERS. Peel, and 
 pound in a mortar, six mealy potatoes, with 
 a little salt, a glass of white wine, some 
 pounded sugar, cinnamon, and an ounce of 
 butter; roll it out with a little flour, cut 
 them the size of a wine glass, and fry them 
 in boiling clarified dripping. Serve them 
 with sifted loaf sugar over them. 
 
 POTATOES, MASHED. (1) When 
 your potatoes are thoroughly boiled, drain 
 them quite dry, pick out every speck, &c. and 
 while hot, rub them through a colander into 
 a clean stewpan. To a pound of potatoes 
 put about half an ounce of butter, and a ta- 
 ble-spoonful of milk: do not make them too 
 moist; mix them w< II together. Obs. — 
 
 When die potatoes are getting old and 
 specky, and in frosty weather, this is the 
 best way of dressing them. You may put 
 them into shapes or small tea-cups; egg 
 them with yolk of egg, and brown them very 
 slightly before a slow fire. 
 
 POTATOES, MASHED. (2) Boil the 
 potatoes, peel and mash them very smoothly ; 
 put for a large dish four ounces of butter, 
 two eggs beat up in half a pint of good milk, 
 and some salt; mix diem well togeUier, 
 heap it upon a dish with a table-spoon to 
 give it a rough and rocky appearance, or 
 put it on a dish and score it with a knife, 
 dip a brush or feather into melted butter, 
 and bnish over the top lightly ; put it into 
 a Dutch oven, and let it brown gradually 
 for an hour or more. To mash potatoes in 
 a plain way, mix with them two ounces of 
 butter, half a pint of milk, and a little salt. 
 When mashed potatoes are not browned, it 
 is a great improvement to add pepper, salt, 
 and one onion minced as finely as possible; 
 heat the potatoes in a saucepan, and serve 
 them hot. 
 
 POTATOES, ROASTED. Wash and 
 dry your potatoes, (all of a size), and put 
 them in a tin Dutch oven, or cheese-toaster: 
 take care not to put them too near the fire, 
 or they will get burned on the outside before 
 they are warmed through. Laige potatoes 
 will require two hours to roast them. 
 N. B. To save time and trouble, some 
 cooks half boil them first. This is one of 
 the best opportunities the baker has to 
 rival the cook. 
 
 POTATOES ROASTED UNDER 
 MEAT. Half boil large potatoes, drain the 
 water from them, and put them into an earth- 
 en dish, or small tin pan, under meat that is 
 roasting, and baste them witii some of the 
 dripping: when they are browned on one 
 side, turn them and brown the other ; send 
 them up round the meat, or in a small dish. 
 
 POTATOES SCALLOPED. Mash po- 
 tatoes as directed, then butter some nice 
 clean scolloi)-shells, patty-pans, or tea-cups 
 or saucers; put in your potatoes; make 
 tliem smooth at the top; cross a knife over 
 them; strew a few fine bread-cruml>s on 
 them: sprinkle them with a paste-brush 
 with a few drops of melted butter, and then 
 set them in a Dutch oven ; when they are 
 browned on the top, take them carefully out 
 of the shells, and brown the otlier side. 
 
 POTATO SNOW. The potatoes must 
 be free fioni spots, and the wiiitest you can 
 pick out ; put them on in cold water; when 
 they begin to crack, sti-ain the water from 
 
POT 
 
 151 
 
 POU 
 
 (hem) and put them into a clean stewpan by 
 tlie side of the fire till they are quite dry, 
 and fall to pieces ; rub them through a wire 
 sieve on the dish they are to be sent up in, 
 and do not disturb them afterward. 
 
 POT POURRI. Gather, when perfect- 
 ly diy, a peck of roses ; pick off the leaves, 
 and strew over them three-quarters of a 
 pound of common salt; let them remain 
 two or three days, and if any fresh flowers 
 are added, some more salt should be sprin- 
 kled over them. Mix with the roses half a 
 pound of finely-pounded bay salt, the same 
 quantity of allspice, of cloves, and of brown 
 sugar, a quarter of a pound of giun-benja- 
 min, and two ounces of orris-root; add a 
 glass of brandy, and any sort of fragrant 
 flower, such as orange and lemon flowers, 
 rosemary, and a great quantity of lavender 
 flowers — also white lilies: a green orange 
 stuck with cloves may be added. All the 
 flowers must be gathered jierfectly dry. 
 
 POTTING BEEF, VEAL, GAME, or 
 POULTRY. Take three pounds of lean 
 gravy beef, rub it well with an ounce of 
 saltpetre, and then a handful of common 
 salt ; let it lie in salt for a couple of days, 
 rubl)ing it well each day; then put it into 
 an eartiien pan or stone jar that will just 
 hold it ; cover it with the skin and fat that 
 you cut off, and pour in half a pint of wa- 
 ter; cover it close with paste, and set it in 
 a very slow oven for about fom* hours. 
 
 When it comes from the oven, drain the 
 gravy from it into a basin ; pick out the gris- 
 tles and the skins; mince it fine; moisten it 
 with a little of the gravy you poured from 
 tlie meat, which is a verj' strong consotnine 
 (but rather salt), and it will make excellent 
 pea.se soup, or browning ; pound the meat 
 patiently and thoroughly in a mortar with 
 some fiesh butter, till it is a tine paste (to 
 make potted meat smooth there is nothing 
 etpial to plenty of elbow-grease) ; seasoning 
 it by degrees, as you are l)eating it, with 
 a little black jiepper and allspice, or cloves 
 poundetl, or mace, or grated nutmeg. 
 
 Put it in (X)ts, press it down as close as 
 possible, and cover it a (]uarter of an inch 
 thick with clarified butter; and if you wish 
 to preserve it a long lime, over that tie a 
 bladder. Keep it in a dry place. 
 
 You may mince a little ham or bacon, or 
 an anchovy, sweet or savory herbs, or an 
 eschalot, and a little tarragon, chervil, or 
 burnet, &c., and pound them with the meat, 
 witli a glass of wine, or some mustard, or 
 forcemeat. 
 
 It is a very agreeable and economical 
 way of using the remains of gjime or poul- 
 try, or a large joint of eitlier roasted or 
 boiled beef, veal, ham, or tongue, &c. to 
 
 mince it with some of the fat, or moisten 
 it with a little butter, and beat it in a mor- 
 tar with the seasoning, &c. 
 
 Meat that has beien boiled down for 
 gravies, &c. (which has heretofore been 
 considered the perquisite of the cat) and is 
 completely drained of all its succulence, beat 
 in a mortar with salt and a little ground 
 black pepper and allspice, as directed in 
 the foregoing receipt, and it will make as 
 good potted lieef as meat that has been 
 baked till its moisture is entirely extracted, 
 which it must be, or it will not keep two 
 days. 
 
 Mem. — Meat that has not been previous- 
 ly salted, will not keep so long as that 
 which has. 
 
 POULTRY. In choosing a turkey, the 
 young cock bird is to be preferred ; the best 
 have black legs, and if young, the toes and 
 bill are pliable and feel soft. A hen turkey 
 is chosen by the same rules. 
 
 Fowls with black legs are the Ijest; if 
 fresh, the vent is close and dark ; if young, 
 the combs are bright in the color, and the 
 legs smooth — the spurs of a young cock are 
 short. 
 
 A goose, if young and fine, is plump in 
 the breast, the fat white and soft, the feet 
 yellow, and but few hairs upon them. 
 
 Ducks may be chosen by tlie same rules, 
 and are hard and thick on the breast and 
 belly. 
 
 Pigeons should be quite fresh, the breast 
 plump and fat, the feet elastic, and neither 
 flabby nor discolored at the vent. 
 
 To prepare a turkey for dressing, every 
 plug is carefully picked out ; and in drawing 
 turkeys and fowls, care must be taken not 
 to break the gall bag, nor the gut which 
 joins the gizzard, as it is impossible to re- 
 move the bitterness of the one, or the gritti- 
 ness of the other. The hairs are singed off" 
 with white paper; the leg-bone is broken 
 close to the foot, and the sinews drawn out 
 — a cloth is then put over the breast, and 
 the bone flattened with a rolling-pin, the 
 liver and gizzard, made delicately clean, are 
 fastened into each pinion. A stufling made 
 with sausage meat, adding soTue grated 
 bread, and mixing it with the beaten yolks 
 of two eggs, or a stuffing as for a fillet of 
 veal, is then put into the breast, and, the 
 turkey, well rubbed over with flour, is put 
 down to roast. It is basted constantly with 
 butter, and when the steam draws towai-ds 
 the fire, it is nearly done; — it is then dredg- 
 ed with flour, and basted with more butter, 
 served with gravy in the dish, and garnished 
 with sausages, or with forcemeat balls if 
 veal stuffing is used, and bread sauce in a 
 sauce tureen. 
 
 To boil a turkey. After being nicely 
 
POU 
 
 152 
 
 PRESERVES 
 
 cleaned, it is trussed with the legs drawn in 
 under the skin, stuffed with a forcemeat, as 
 for veal, adding a few chopped oysters; 
 then boiled in a well-floured cloth, and serv- 
 ed with oyster, white or celery sauce, poured 
 over it, and also some in a sauce tureen. 
 Boiled ham, tongue, or pickled pork, is eat- 
 en with it. A large-sized turkey will require 
 more than two hours to boil. Turkey, with 
 celery sauce, is stuffed and tnissed neatly, 
 laid all over with slices of bacon, tied in a 
 clotli, and boiled in water, with a little salt, 
 butter, and lemon-juice added. It is served 
 tliickly covered with celery sauce. 
 
 Turkey poults are stuffed and roasted in 
 tlie same manner as a full-grown tiu-key. 
 They will require rather more than an hour 
 to roast. They are dressed with the heads 
 twisted under the wing, as are also turkeys 
 sometimes, but it seems an injudicious cus- 
 tom, as the side on which the head is cannot 
 be nicely browned, and in carving, the blood 
 from the neck is apt to mingle with the 
 gravy. 
 
 To roast a fowl. It is picked, nicely 
 cleaned, and singed; the neck is cut off 
 close by the back ; the fowl is then washed, 
 and if a large one, stuffed with forcemeat. 
 It is trussed and dredged with flour ; and 
 when put down to roast, basted well with 
 butter, and frothed up. When the steam is 
 observed to draw towards the fiie, it is 
 Bufiiciently done ; served with giavy in the 
 diSh, and bread sauce in a butter tureen. 
 A good-sized fowl will require above an hour 
 to roast. 
 
 Chickens are roasted as the above, and 
 served with gravy in the dish, which is 
 garnished with fi'ied eggs, and bread sauce 
 in a sauce tureen ; they will require from 
 imif an hour to three-fjuarters to roast. 
 
 To boil a fowl. When nicely singed, 
 washed, and trussed, it is well dredged with 
 flour, and put on in boiling water, and if a 
 large one, boiled nearly > an hour. It is 
 served with parsley and buttei", white, or 
 liver sauce. 
 
 Two boiled fowls, served with a tongue 
 between them, make a handsome top disli. 
 
 Boiled chickens are improved by being 
 stuffed, and will require nearly half an hour 
 to boil. 
 
 To roast a goose. After being well 
 cleaned, picked, and singed, it is washed, 
 made perfectly dry, and stuffed with about 
 four table-spoonfuls of grated bread, an on- 
 ion finely minced, together with three sage- 
 leaves, seasoned with salt and pepper, and 
 mixed with a well-beaten egg; or, the 
 stuffing is made of boiled mashed potatoes, 
 seasoned in the same way as the other, and 
 mixed with a beaten egg. If roasted on a 
 spit, each end is tied on tightly ; it is basted 
 at first with a little bit of butter, after which 
 
 the fat that drops from it is used. It is 
 served with gravy in the dish, and apple 
 sauce in a sauce tureen. A large goose will 
 require an hour and a half to roast. At ta- 
 ble, an opening is cut in the apron, and a 
 glass of Port wine, with which is mixed a 
 large tea-spoonful of made mustard, is pour- 
 ed into the body of the goose. This is also 
 an improvement to ducks. 
 
 A green goose, about two or three months 
 old, is seasoned with pepper and salt only, 
 and lequires to be basted with butter. It 
 requires about an hour to roast. 
 
 To roast ducks. They are nicely picked, 
 cleaned, singed, and washed, seasoned with 
 pepper and salt ; or stuffed, and served with 
 gravy, as directed in pp. 66, 67. A duck 
 may be boiled for nearly an hour, and served 
 with onion sauce poured over it. 
 
 PRESERVES, SWEETMEATS. &c. 
 
 All sweetmeats should be preserved in a 
 brass pan, which must be well scoured with 
 sand and vinegai-, washed with hot water, 
 and wiped perfectly dry before it is used. 
 
 An iron plate or stove is preferal)le to a 
 fire for preserving on; and by boiling the 
 fruit quickly, the form, color, and flavor, 
 will be belter preserved, and there will be 
 less waste than in slow boiling. A round 
 wooden stick, smaller at one end than at 
 the other, in Scotland called a thevil, is 
 better adapted for stirring sugar or preserves 
 with than a silver spoon, which last is only 
 used for skimming. That there may be no 
 waste in taking off the scum, it is put through 
 a fine silk sieve, or through a hair sieve, 
 with a bit of muslin laid into it; the clear 
 part will run into the vessel placed lielow, 
 and may be returned to the preserving- 
 pan, 
 
 A silver soup ladle is used for putting pre- 
 serves into the jars, which should be of 
 brown stone, or of white wedgewood wai-e. 
 After the jellies or preserves are put in, they 
 must not be moved till quite cold, when they 
 are covered with a piece of white paper, cut 
 so as to fit into the jar, and dipped into brandy 
 or rum. They are then stored in a cool dry 
 ))lace, and should be looked at occasionally. 
 If in a few weeks they l)e oljserved to fer- 
 ment, the sirup should be first strained fiom 
 the fruit, then boiled till it is thick, and 
 again poured over the fruit, previously put 
 into clean jars. 
 
 Sugar, low in price, and consequently 
 coarse in quality, is far from lieing cheapest 
 in the end ; while that which is most refin- 
 ed is always the test. White sugars should 
 be chosen as shining and as close in texture 
 as possible. 
 
 The best sort of brown sugar has a bright 
 and gi-avelly appearance. 
 
 A jelly-bag is made of half a square of 
 
PRESERVES 
 
 153 
 
 PRESERVES 
 
 flannel folded by the cornerg, and one side 
 sewed up; the top bound with tape, and 
 four loops also of tajje sewed on, so as to 
 hang upon a stand made of four bars of 
 wood, each thirty-six inches in height, fast- 
 ened with four bars at the top, each meas- 
 uring ten inches, with hooks upon the cor- 
 ners. Twelve inches from the bottom four 
 more bars are placed. A pan or basin is 
 put underneath to receive the juice or jelly 
 as it di-ops through the bag. 
 
 To. save Sugar in Preserving Cher- 
 ries, Green Gages, Damsons, Currants, 
 and Raspberries. Gather the fiuit perfectly 
 dry, and to a pound allow five ounces of finely- 
 pounded loaf sugar ; put a layer of fruit into a 
 wide-mouthed bottle or jar, and then one of 
 sugar, till the vessel is full ; tie over it tightly 
 two fold's of sound bladder, and put them into 
 a copper or pan, with straw in the bottom, 
 and water as high as the necks, and let them 
 simmer for tlnce hours. When the water 
 cools, take out the bottles, and keep them 
 in a cool dry place. 
 
 FRUIT, WITHOUT 
 
 SUGAR. Take damsons when not too 
 ripe ; pick off the stalks, and put them into 
 wide-mouthed glass bottles, taking care not 
 to put in any but what are whole, and with- 
 out blemish ; shake them well down (other- 
 wise the bottles will not be half full when 
 done) ; stop the bottles with new soft corks, 
 not too tight ; set them into a very slow oven 
 (nearly cold) four or five hours ; the slower 
 they are done the better; when they begin 
 to shrink in the bottles, it is a sure sign that 
 the fruit is thoroughly warm: take them 
 out, and before tiiey are cold, drive in the 
 corks quite tight ; set them in a bottle-rack or 
 basket, with the mouth downwards, and they 
 will keep good several years. 
 
 Green gooselierries, morello cherries, cur- 
 rants, green gages, or bullace, may be done 
 the same way. 
 
 Obs. — If die corks are good, and fit well, 
 tliere will be no occasion for cementing 
 tliem ; but should bungs be used, it will be 
 necessary. 
 
 APPLES. (1) Pare, core. 
 
 and quarter six pounds of good hard bak 
 ing apples ; finely pound four pounds of loaf 
 sugar ; put a layer of each alternately, with 
 half a pound of die test white ginger, into a 
 jar; let it remain eight-and-forty hours ; infuse, 
 for half that time, in a little boiling water, 
 half a quarter of a pound of bruised white 
 ginger; strain and boil the liquor with the 
 apples till they look clear, and the sirup rich 
 and tliick, which may be in about an hour. 
 Take oflF die scum as it rises. When to be 
 eaten, pick out the whole ginger. 
 
 PRESERVED APPLES. (2) Weigh 
 
 equal quantities of good brown sugar and of 
 apples; peel,coie, and mince them small. Boil 
 the sugar, allowing to every three pounds a 
 pint of water ; skim it well, and boil it pretty 
 thick; then add the apples, the grated peel 
 of one or two lemons, and two or three 
 pieces of white ginger; boil till the apples 
 fall, and look clear and yellow. This pre- 
 serve will keep for years. 
 
 APPLES, GREEN COD- 
 
 LINGS. Gather the codlings when not 
 bigger than French walnuts with the stalks 
 and a leaf or two on each. Put a handful of 
 vine leaves into a presei-ving-pan, then a layer 
 of codlings, then vine leaves, and then cod- 
 lings and vine leaves alternately, until it is 
 full, with vine leaves pietty thickly strewed 
 on the top, and fill the pan with spring wa- 
 ter ; cover it close to keep in the steam, and 
 set it on a slow fire till die apjiles become 
 soft. Take them out, and pare off the 
 rinds with a penknife, and then put them 
 into the same water again with the vine 
 leaves, but taking care that the water is 
 become quite cold, or it will cause them 
 to crack; put in a little alum and set 
 them over a slow fire till they are green, 
 when, take them out and lay them on a 
 sieve to drain. Make a good sirup and 
 give them a gentle boil three successive 
 days; then put tliem in small jars with 
 brandy paper over them, and tie tliem 
 down tight. 
 
 APPLES, Golden Pippins. 
 
 Take the rind of an orange and boil it very 
 tender ; lay it in cold water for Uiree days ; 
 take two dozen golden pippins, pare, core, 
 and quarter them, and boil them to a strong 
 jelly, and run it through a jelly-bag till it is 
 clear; take the same quantity of pippins, 
 pare and core them, and put three pounds 
 of loaf sugar in a preserving-pan with a 
 pint and a half of spring water; let it boil ; 
 skim it well and put in your pippins, with 
 tlie orange rind cut into long thin slips ; 
 then let them boil fast till the sugar becomes 
 thick and will almost candy; then put in a 
 pint and half of pippin jelly, and boil fast 
 till the jelly is clear; then squeeze in the 
 juice of a fine lemon ; give the whole an- 
 other boil, and put the pippins in pots or 
 glasses with the orange-jieel. 
 
 Lemon-peel may be used instead of or- 
 ange, but then it must only be boiled, and 
 not soaked. 
 
 APRICOTS. Pare your ap- 
 
 ricots, and stone what you can whole, tlien 
 give them a light boiling in water propor- 
 tioned to the quantity of fruit, only just 
 enough ; then take tlie weight of die apricots 
 
PRESERVES 
 
 154 
 
 PRESERVES 
 
 in sugar, and take the liquor in which they' 
 have boiled, smd the sugar, and boil it till 
 it comes to a sirup, and give diem a light 
 boiling, taking off the scum as it rises. 
 When the sirup jellies it is enough; then 
 take up the apricots and cover them with 
 tlie jelly ; put cut paper over them, and lay 
 them down when cold. 
 
 BLACKCURRANTS. Gather 
 
 the currants upon a dry day; to every 
 pound allow half a pint of red currant 
 juice, and a pound and a half of finely- 
 pounded loaf sugar. With scissors clip off 
 the heads and stalks ; put the juice, sugar, 
 and currants into a preserving pan ; shake 
 it frequently till it boils; carefully remove 
 the firuit from the sides of tlie pan, and take 
 (^ the scum as it rises ; let it boil for ten or 
 fifteen minutes. This preserve may be eat- 
 «Q with cream, and made into tarts. 
 
 — ; CHERRIES. To a pound of 
 
 cherries allow tliree-quarters of a pound 
 of pounded loaf sugar; carefully stone them, 
 and as tliey are done, strew part of the su- 
 gar over them ; boil them fast, with the re- 
 mainder of the sugar, till the fruit is clear 
 and the sirup thick ; take off the scum as it 
 rises. Or they may be boiled ten minutes 
 in an equal quantity of sugar, which has 
 been previously clarified and boiled candy 
 high. Part of the kernels may be added. 
 
 CUCUMBERS. Take large 
 
 and fresh-gathered cucumbers; split them 
 down and take out all tlie seeds ; lay them 
 in salt and water that will bear an egg, 
 three days; set them on a fire with cold 
 water, and a small lump of alum, and boil 
 them a few minutes, or till tender; drain 
 them, and pour on them a tliin sirup; let 
 them lie two days; boil tlie simp again, and 
 put it over the cucumbers; repeat it twice 
 more; then have ready some fresh clarified 
 sugar, boiled to a blow ; put in the cucumbeis, 
 simmer it five minutes; set it by till next 
 day; boil the sirup and cucumbers again, 
 and set them in glasses for use. 
 
 CUCUMBERS, SMALL. 
 
 Weigh equal proportions of small green cu- 
 cumbers and of fine loaf sugai-, clarify it; 
 rub tlie cucumbers with a cloth, scald them 
 in hot water, and, when cold, put them into 
 the sirup, with some white ginger and the 
 peel of a lemon ; boil them gently for ten 
 minutes. The following day just let them 
 boil, and repeat this three times, and the 
 last, boil them till tender and clear. 
 
 DAMSONS. (1) To every pound 
 
 of damsons allow three-quarters of a pound 
 of pounded loaf sugar; put into jars alter- 
 
 nately a layer of damsons, and one of sugar; 
 tie tliem over with bladder or strong paper, 
 and put them into an oven after the bread is 
 withdrawn, and let them remain till the oven 
 is cold. The following day strain off the 
 sirup, and boil it till thick. When cold, 
 put the damsons one by one into small jars, 
 and pour over them the sirup, which must 
 cover them. Tie them over with wet 
 bladder. 
 
 DAMSONS. (2) Prick them 
 
 with a needle, and boil them with 
 the saipe proportion as in ■ the receipt" to 
 preserve damsons, till the sirup will jelly. 
 Carefiilly take off all tlie scum. 
 
 — GREEN GAGES. Put the 
 
 plums into boiling water, pare off the skin, 
 and divide them ; take an equal quantity of 
 pounded loaf sugar, stiew half of it over the 
 fruit; let it remain some hours, and, with 
 the remainder of the sugar, put it into a 
 preserving pan; boil till the plums look 
 quite clear, take off the scum as it rises, 
 and a few minutes before taking them off 
 the fii'e, add the kernels. 
 
 LARGE SWEET GREEN 
 
 Gooseberries. (1) Weigh equal pro- 
 portions of sugar and of fruit ; widi a pen- 
 knife slit the gooseberries on one side, and 
 take out all the seeds ; put them into a pre- 
 serving pan widi cold water, scald them; 
 pour off the water when cold ; put over and 
 under them vine leaves, with more cold water ; 
 set them over the fire togreen. Clarify die su- 
 gar ; put the gooseberries into a deep jar, and 
 pour the boiling sinip over tliem; in two 
 days pour it off, boil, and put it over the 
 fruit ; repeat this till the sirup becomes thick, 
 then put them into small jars. 
 
 LARGE SWEET GREEN 
 
 Gooseberries. (2) Gadier the largest- 
 sized gooseberries, and allow an equal quan- 
 tity of pounded loaf sugar ; cut the gooseber- 
 ries in half, and take out tlie seeds ; wet the 
 sugar with a little water, and put all togedier 
 into a preserving pan; carefully stir and 
 scum them, and boil them till the sirup is 
 clear and the fruit soft. 
 
 GOOSEBERRIES. The tops 
 
 and tails being removed from the gooseber- 
 ries, allow an equal quantity of finely-pounded 
 loaf sugar, and put a layer of each alternate- 
 ly into a large deep jar ; pour into it as much 
 dripped currant juice, either red or white, as 
 will dissolve the sugar, adding its weight in 
 sugar ; the following day put all into a pre- 
 serving pan and boil it. 
 
 GREEN PEAS. Put into a 
 
PUDDINGS 
 
 155 
 
 PUDDINGS 
 
 saucepan of boiling water fresh gathered 
 and fresh-shelled peas, but not very young ; 
 as soon as they boil up, pour off the water, 
 and put them upon a large dry cloth folded, 
 and tlien upon another, tliat ^ they may be 
 perfectly dry witliout being bruised; let 
 them lie some time before the fire, and then 
 put them into small paper bags, each con- 
 taining about a pint, and hang them up in 
 the kitchen. Before using, soak them for 
 two or three hours in water, and tlien boil 
 them as directed for green {leas, adding a 
 little bit of butter, when they are put on to 
 boil. 
 
 PRESERVED JARGONELLE PEARS. 
 Gather pears with stalks before they are 
 quite ripe ; allow equal quantities of fine 
 loaf sugar and of fmit. Pare the pears as 
 thinly as possible, keeping on the stalks ; 
 carefully cut out the black top ; as they are 
 peeled put them into cold water. Put cab- 
 bage leaves into the bottom of a preserving- 
 pan; lay in the pears, cover them with 
 cold water and one or two cabbage leaves 
 upon the top; boil them thirty minutes, and 
 lay them upon a dish. To six pounds of 
 sugar, allow a pound of water, boil and 
 skim it; then add one ounce of white gin- 
 ger, previously soaked in hot water, and 
 scraped clean, add the juice and thinly par- 
 ed rinds of two lemons. Boil the sirup ten 
 minutes, put in the pears, and let tliera boil 
 twenty minutes; take them out, put them 
 into a bowl or deep dish, boil the sirup 
 eight minutes, and when cold pour it over 
 the pears; cover them with pajjer; in four 
 days pour off the sirup, boil it eight minutes, 
 and pour it over the pears when cold. In 
 four days repeat this process, and do it a 
 third lime; then stick a clove in each pear, 
 where the black top was cut out. Put them 
 into jars, divide the ginger and lemon-peel, 
 and pour on the sirup when cold. 
 
 RED PEARS. Parljoil a doz- 
 en of pound pears in vvatei-; peel them. 
 Clarify the same weight of fine loaf sugar 
 that there is of peais ; add a pint of Poit 
 wine, the juice and rind of one lemon, with 
 a little cochineal, a few cloves, and a stick 
 of cinnamon ; boil the pears in this till they 
 become clear and red; take them out, boil 
 up the sirup, sti'ain, and put it over the 
 pears. 
 
 PUDDINGS, PIES, AND TARTS. 
 
 Great nicety is to be observed in prepar- 
 ing every material used for boiled or baked 
 puddings. 
 
 The eggs require to be well beaten, for 
 which purpose, if many are to be done, a 
 whisk is used ; if few, a three-pronged fork. 
 The flour is dried and sifted. The cuxrants 
 
 are carefidly cleaned, by putting them into 
 a cullender, and pouring warm water over 
 them; if very dirty, tliis is to be repeated 
 two or three times, and after being dried in 
 a dish before the fire, diey are rubbed in a 
 clean coarse cloth, all the stalks and stones 
 picked out, and then a little flour dredged 
 over them. The raisins are stoned with a 
 small sharp-pointed knife ; it is cleansed in 
 a basin of water, which also receives the 
 seed. The pudding cloth must be kept es^ 
 pecially clean, or it will impart an unpleas- 
 ant taste to anyUiing that is boiled in it ; 
 and when taken off a pudding, it ought im- 
 mediately to be laid in cold water, and af- 
 terwards well washed with s(3da or peai'l- 
 ashes in hot water. Just before being used 
 for a rice, bread, or batter pudding, it 
 should be dipped into hot water, wrung, 
 shaken, and well dredged with flour; and 
 for a plum, suet pudding, or any sort of 
 fruit pudding in paste, it must be buttered 
 before being floured. 
 
 The water should boil quick when die 
 pudding is put in ; and it should be moved 
 about for a minute, for fear the ingredients 
 should not mix. 
 
 When the pudding is done, a pan of cold 
 water should be ready, and the pudding 
 dipped into it as soon as it con)es out of the 
 pot, which will prevent its adhering to the 
 cloth. 
 
 A bread pudding should' 'be tied loose; 
 if batter, it must be tied tight over, and a 
 batter pudding should be strained through a 
 coarse sieve when all is mixed. In others, 
 the eggs only. If you boil the pudding in 
 a basin or pan, take care that it is always 
 well buttered. 
 
 When you make your puddings without 
 eggsi, they must have as little milk as will 
 mix, and must boil for three or four hours. 
 A few spoonfuls of small beer, or one of 
 yeast, is the best substitute for eggs. Your 
 puddings will always be much lighter if you 
 beat the yolks and whites of the eggs long 
 and separately. You may, if you please, 
 use snow instead of eggs, either in puddings 
 or pancakes. Two large spoonfuls will sup- 
 ply the place of one egg ; the snow may be 
 taken up from any clean spot before it is 
 wanted, and will not lose its virtue, though 
 the sooner it is used the better. 
 
 All puddings in paste are tied tightly, but 
 other puddings loosely, in the cloth. When 
 a pudding is to be boiled in a shape, a piece 
 of buttered white paper is put upon the top 
 of it, before the floured cloth is tied on. 
 The pan, dish, or shape, in which the pud- 
 ding is to be eiUier boiled or baked, must 
 always be buttered before it is filled. It is 
 an improvement to puddings in general to 
 let them stand some time after being prepared 
 eitlier for boiling or baking. When a pud- 
 
PUDDINGS 
 
 156 
 
 PUDDINGS 
 
 ding is to be boJIfed, it must be put on in a 
 covered pot, in plenty of boiling water, and 
 never for a moment be allowed to be off the 
 boil until ready to be served. As the water 
 wastes, more, and always boiling, must be 
 added. A plum pudding is the better for 
 being mixed tlie day before it is to he boiled. 
 It may be useful to observe that this pudding 
 will keep for months after it is dressed, if 
 the cloth be allowed to remain upon it, and 
 if, when cold, it be covered with a sheet of 
 foolscap paper, and then hung up in a cool 
 place. When about to be used, it must be 
 put into a clean cloth, and again boiled for 
 an hour; or it may be cut into slices, and 
 broiled as wanted. If in breaking eggs a 
 bad one should accidentally drop into the 
 basin amongst the rest, the whole will be 
 spoiled; and therefore they should be broken 
 one by one into a tea-cup. When the 
 whites only of eggs are required for a jelly, 
 or other things, the yolks, if not broken, will 
 keep good for three days, if the basin they 
 are in be covered. 
 
 A slab of marble, stone, or slate, is pref- 
 erable to wood for rolling out paste on. 
 The rolling-pin, cutters, and every other im- 
 plement used in these processes, must be 
 kept particularly clean ; they should always 
 be washed immediately after teing used, 
 and then well dried. Before using butter 
 for paste, it is 'aid for some time into cold 
 water, which Is changed once or twice. 
 When salt butter is used, it is well worked 
 in two or three waters. If it should not be 
 convenient to make the paste immediately 
 before it is baked, it will not suffer from 
 standing, if made early in the morning, and 
 the air excluded from it, by putting first a 
 tin cover over the pie or tartlets, and 
 above that a folded table-clolh. To ascer- 
 tain if the oven be of a proper heat, a little 
 bit of paste may be baked in it, before any 
 tiling else be put in. Puft' paste requires 
 rather a brisk oven. If too hot it binds the 
 suiface and prevents the steam fiom rising, 
 and if too slow it becomes sodden and flat. 
 Raised crusts require a quick oven; puffs 
 and tartlets, which are filled with preserved 
 fruit, are sufficiently done when the paste is 
 baked. When large pies have been in the 
 oven for a few minutes, a paper is put over 
 them to prevent their being burned. 
 
 PUDDING. Sweeten a pint and a half 
 of cream, and boil it with the peel of a small 
 lemon ; cut the crumb of a twopenny roll, 
 and put it into the cream, and Iwil it for 
 eight minutes, stirring constantly ; when 
 thick add a quarter of a pound of fresh but- 
 ter beaten to a cream, a tea-spoonful of gi-a- 
 ted nutmeg, and four well-beaten eggs; beat 
 it all well togedier for some minutes. It 
 may be baked or boiled. 
 
 APRICOT. Take six-and- 
 
 thirty nice fine red apricots, cut them ia 
 halves, and tal^e out the stones, and roll 
 them in a pan with four ounces of powdered 
 sugar. Pi-ejKire your cnist, line your mould 
 with it, put in your apricots, and finish the 
 same as in the receipt for Apple Pudding a 
 la Francaise. 
 
 ALMOND, BAKED. Steep 
 
 four oynces of crumbs of bread sliced 
 in a pint and half of cream, or grate the 
 bread ; dien beat half a pound of blanched 
 almonds very fine, till tliey become a paste, 
 with two tea-spoonfiils of orange-flower wa- 
 ter ; beat up the yolks of eight eggs, and the 
 whites of four ; mix all well together ; put in 
 a quarter of a pound of loaf sugar, and stir 
 in thi"ee or four ounces of melted butter; 
 put it over the fire, and keep stirring until 
 it is thick ; lay a sheet of paper at the bottom 
 of a dish, and pour in die ingiedients. To 
 bake half an hour. 
 
 ALMOND. Blanch and beat 
 
 a pound of sweet almonds with a little 
 rose-water, mix a pound of bread grated, 
 a nutmeg, half a pound of butler, and tlie 
 yolks of six eggs, boil a pint of cream, co- 
 lored with a very little saffron, add it to the 
 eggs and a little flour, knead it well, and 
 then put in the almonds, beating it up till 
 all is mixed together. Boil it for half an 
 hour in a buttered cluth. 
 
 AMBER. Put a pound of 
 
 butter into a saucepan, with three-quarters 
 of a pound of powder-sugar ; when melted 
 and well mixed together, add the yolks of 
 fifteen eggs beaten, and as much candied or- 
 ange beaten to a paste as will give color and 
 flavor to it. Line the dish with paste for 
 turning out, and when filled with the above, 
 lay a crust over, as you would a pie, and 
 bake in a slow oven. It may be eaten hot 
 or cold. 
 
 APPLE. (1) Weigh one 
 
 pound and three-quarters of apples, pare, 
 core, and cut them into thin bits; weigh 
 also ten ounces of brown sugar; make a 
 suet paste, rolled thinner towards the edges 
 than in the middle, and sufficiently large to 
 lay into a two-quart basin, previously but- 
 tered ; put in the apple and sugar alternate- 
 ly, wet tlie edges of the paste, and fold it 
 closely over ; dredge it with flour, and tie a 
 pudding clod) over the top of a basin ; boil 
 it for three hours. A light paste may be 
 made with flour, half its quantity in bulk of 
 grated bread and suet, mixing it with milk 
 or water, and, instead of apples, currants, 
 damsons, or any other fniit, may be enclos- 
 ed in it. 
 
PUDDINGS 
 
 157 
 
 PUDDINGS 
 
 APPLE. (2) Peel and core 
 
 aix very large apples, stew them in six ta- 
 ble-spoonfuls of water, witli tiie rind of a 
 lemon ; when soft, beat tliem to a pulp, add 
 aix ounces of melted ft-esh butter, tlie same 
 <tf good brown sugar, six well-beaten eggs, 
 half a wine-glass of brandy, and a tea- 
 fipoonful of lemon-juice; line a dish with a 
 puff paste, and when baked, stick all over 
 the top tliin chips of candied citi'on and 
 lemon-peel. 
 
 APPLE. (3) Make a batter wiUi 
 
 two eggs, a pint of milk, and three or four 
 spoonfuls of flour; pour it into a deep dish, 
 and having pared six or eight small apples, 
 place diem whole in tlie batter and bake it. 
 
 APPLE, BOILED. Chop four 
 
 ounces of beef suet very fine, or two ounces 
 of butter, lard, or dripping ; but the suet 
 makes the best and lightest crust ; put it 
 on the paste-board, with eight ounces of 
 flour, and a salt-spoonful of salt, mix it well 
 together wiUi your hands, and then put it all 
 of a heap, and make a hole in the middle ; 
 break one egg in it, stir it well together 
 with your finger, and by degrees infuse as 
 much water as will make it of a stiff paste: 
 roll it out two or tliree times, with the roll- 
 ing-pin, and dien roll it large enough to re- 
 ceive thirteen ounces of apples. It will look 
 neater if boiled in a basin, well buttered, 
 llian when boiled in a pudding-cloth, well 
 floured; boil it an hour and three-quarters: 
 but the surest way is to stew the apples first 
 in a stevvpan, with a wine-glassful of water, 
 and then one hour will boil it. Some people 
 like it flavored widi cloves and lemon-peel, 
 ajid sweeten it with two ounces of sugar. 
 Gooseberries, currants, raspberries, and cher- 
 ries, damsons, and various plums and fruits, 
 are made into puddings with tlie same crust 
 directed for apple puddings. 
 
 APPLE, A LA FRAN- 
 
 CAISE. To make the entremets proper- 
 ly, it is necessary to have a mould in the 
 form of a dome four inches deep and six in 
 diameter ; this mould and its lid should be 
 pierced all over, the same as a skimmer. 
 There should be a rim round die lid of the 
 dome diat it may cover it so closely that all 
 air may be excluded. 
 
 Peel six and thirty small red apples 
 and cut diem into quarters ; toss diem in a 
 stewpan with four ounces of fine sugar 
 (over which must be grated die rind of an 
 orange), and four ounces of butter luke- 
 warm; then place the stewpan over die 
 Btove, with fire on the cover. When your 
 apples are done, pour them into a dish. 
 Whilst they are cooling mix up three-quar- 
 ters of a pound of stiff paste ; then roll out 
 14 
 
 half of it to the thickness of the eighdi of an 
 inch. With this crust line die inside of 
 your mould, which must be previously well 
 buttered. Be careful diat the paste lays 
 quite flat, leaving a piece all romid the edge 
 of the mould, then put in the best quarters 
 of the apples, and fill up die mould with the 
 rest of the apples and their liquor, then roll 
 out die rest of the paste very thin, into two 
 parts, cut in rounds. Slightly moisten the 
 paste which you have left round the edge of 
 the mould, and place upon it one of the 
 rounds of paste, pinching the edges carefully 
 together, then slightly moisten, and place 
 upon it your other round piece of paste, 
 pinching the edge of this with the others to 
 make it quite close, then cover them with 
 the lid of die mould well buttered. 
 
 Now, turn your mould over into the mid- 
 dle of a napkin, and tie up die corners of it 
 close over the top of the dome, and put it 
 into a saucepan (nine inches deep and nine 
 wide) full of boiling water; and let it be 
 kept constantly boiling for an hour and a 
 half; when it has boiled for this time, take 
 it out of the saucepan, untie the napkin, 
 take out the mould, remove the lid, place 
 the mould on a dish, and dien carefully take 
 it off from the pudding ; strew fine sugar all 
 over your pudding, and serve it quite hot. 
 
 ARROW-ROOT. From a quart 
 
 of new milk take a small tea-cupful, and 
 mix it with two large spoonfuls of arrow- 
 root. Boil the remainder of the milk, and 
 stir it amongst the arrow-root; add, when 
 nearly cold, four well-beaten yolks of eggs, 
 widi two ounces of pounded loaf sugar, 
 and die same of fresh butter broken into 
 small bits ; season with grated nutmeg. Mix 
 it well together, and bake it in a buttered 
 dish fifteen or twenty minutes. 
 
 AUNT MARY'S. Of bloom 
 
 raisins stoned, currants nicely cleaned, suet 
 finely minced, bread grated, apples minced, 
 and brown sugar, a quarter of a pound of 
 each ; four well-beaten eggs, a tea-spoonful 
 of pounded ginger, half a one of salt, half a 
 nutmeg grated, and one glass of brandy; 
 mix all the ingredients well, and boil it in a 
 cloth for two hours. Sei^ve with a sauce of 
 melted butter, a glass of wine, and some 
 sugar. 
 
 BARLEY. Take a pound of 
 
 pearl barley well washed, three quarts of 
 new milk, one quart of cream, and half a 
 pound of double refined sugar, a grated nut- 
 meg, and some salt ; mix them well together, 
 then put them into a deep pan, and bake it; 
 then take it out of the oven, and put into it 
 six eggs well beaten, six ounces of beef mar- 
 row, and a quarter of a pound of grated 
 
PUDDINGS 
 
 158 
 
 PUDDINGS 
 
 bread ; mix all well together, then put it in- 
 to another i>an, bake it again, and it will be 
 excellent. 
 
 BATTER, BAKED OR BOIL- 
 ED. Break thi-ee eggs in a basin witli 
 as much salt as will lie on a sixpence; 
 beat diem well togeUier, and then add four 
 ounces of flour ; beat it into a smooth bat- 
 ter, and by degrees add half a pint of milk : 
 have your saucepan ready boiling, and but- 
 ter an earthen mould well, put the pudding 
 in, and tie it tight over with a pudding- 
 cloth, and boil it one hour and a quarter. 
 Or, put it in a dish that you have well but- 
 tered and bake it three-quarters of an hour. 
 Corrants washed and picked clean, or rai- 
 sins stoned, are good in this pudding, and 
 it is then called a black cap : or, add loaf 
 (sugar, and a little nutmeg and ginger with- 
 out the fruit, — it, is very good that way; 
 verve it witli wine sauce. 
 
 BATTER. Take six ounces 
 
 of fine flour, a little salt, and three eggs ; 
 beat it well with a little milk, added 
 by degrees till the batter become smooth; 
 make it the thickness of cream ; put into 
 a buttered pie-dish, and bake three-quarters 
 of an hour: or into a buttered and floured 
 basin, tied over tight with a cloth: boil one 
 and a half hour, or two hours. 
 
 BATTER, WITHOUT 
 
 Mix six spoonfuls of flour with a 
 
 EGGS 
 
 nnall portion of a quart of milk; and when 
 smooth add the remainder of the milk, a tea- 
 spoonful of salt, two tea-sjwonfuls of grated 
 ginger, and two of tincture of saffion ; stir 
 all together well, and boil it an hour. Fmit 
 may be added or not. 
 
 BEEF-STEAK. Get rump- 
 steaks, not too thick, beat them with a chop- 
 per, cut them into pieces about half the size 
 of your hand, and trim ofl* all the skin, sin- 
 ews, &c. ; have ready an onion peeled and 
 chopped fine, likewise some potatoes peeled 
 and cut into slices a quarter of an inch 
 thick; rub the inside of a basin or an oval 
 plain mould with butter, sheet it with paste 
 as directed for boiled puddings, season the 
 steaks with pepper, salt, and a little grated 
 nutmeg; put in a layer of steak, then anotlier 
 of potatoes, and so on till it is full, occasion- 
 ally throwing in part of the chopped onion ; 
 add to it half a gill of mushroom ketchup, a 
 table-spoonful of lemon-pickle, and half a 
 gill of water or veal broth ; roll out a top, 
 and close it well to prevent the water getting 
 in ; rinse a clean cloth in hot water, sprinkle 
 a little flour over it, and tie up the pudding; 
 have ready a large pot of water Ixjiling, 
 put it in, and boil it two hours and a half; 
 
 take it up, remove the cloth, turn it down- 
 wards in a deep dish, and when wanted take 
 away the basin or mould. 
 
 BEEFS TEAK, BAKED., 
 
 Make a batter of milk, two eggs, and flour, 
 or, which is much better, potatoes boiled and 
 mashed through a cullender ; lay a little of 
 it at the bottom of the dish ; then put in tlie 
 steaks, prepared as above, and very well 
 seasoned ; pour the remainder of tlie batter 
 over tliem, and bake it . 
 
 BISCUIT. Pour a pint 
 
 of boiling milk over three Naples biscuits 
 grated ; cover it close ; when cold add the 
 yolks of four eggs, two whites, nutmeg, a 
 little brandy, half a spoonful of flour, and 
 some sugar. Boil it an hour in a basin. 
 
 BOSTON APPLE. Peel one 
 
 dozen and a half of good apples ; take out 
 the cores, cut them small, put into a stewpan 
 that will just hold them, with a little water, 
 a little cinnamon, two cloves, and the peel 
 of a lemon; stew over a slow fire till quite 
 soft, then sweeten with moist sugar, and 
 pass it through a hair sieve; add to it the 
 yolks of four eggs and one white, a quarter 
 of a pound of good butter, half a nutmeg, 
 the peel of a lemon grated, and the juice of 
 one lemon : beat all well together ; line the 
 inside of a pie-dish with good puff" paste; 
 put in the pudding, and bake half an hour. 
 
 BRANDY. Line a mould with 
 
 jar-raisins stoned, or dried cherries, then 
 lay thin slices of French roll ; next put a lay- 
 er of ratafias or macaroons, then the fruit, 
 roUs, and cakes, in succession, until the 
 niOuld l)e full, pouring in at times, two 
 passes of bi-audy. Beat four eggs, yolks and 
 whites separately, put to them a pint of milk 
 or cream, lightly sweetened, half a nutmeg, 
 and the rind of half a lemon grated. Pour 
 it into the mould, and when the solid has 
 imbibed it all, flour a cloth, tie it tight over, 
 and boil an hour ; keep the mould the right 
 side upwards. 
 
 BREAD AND BUTTER. 
 
 Cut thin slices of bread and butter, without 
 the crust, lay some in tlie bottom of a dish, 
 then put a layer of well-cleaned currants, or 
 any preserved fruit; tlien more bread and 
 butter, and so on till the dish is neaily filled ; 
 mix with a quart of milk four well-lieaten 
 eggs, three table-spoonfuls of orange-flower 
 or rose water ; sweeten it well with brown 
 sugar, and pour it over the bread and butter, 
 and let it soak for two or three hours before 
 being baked. It will take nearly an hour. 
 Serve with a sauce, in a sauce-tureen, made 
 with a tea-cupful of currant wine, a table- 
 
PUDDINGS 
 
 159 
 
 PUDDINGS 
 
 spoonful of brown sugar, three of water, and 
 a bit of butter the size of a wakut, stirred till 
 boiling hot. 
 
 BREAD. (1) Cut two or three 
 
 slices of bread rather thin, and without the 
 crust, put them in a dish, and pour over 
 them half a pint of boiling milk ; let it stand 
 till cold, and then mash the bread ; lay into 
 the bottom of a pudding dish a layer of pre- 
 served gooseberries, then add the bread; 
 sweeten well a pint of good milk, and mix 
 with it thi-ee well-beaten eggs with two ta- 
 ble-spoonfuls of rose water; pour it over the 
 bread, and bake it for an hour. Before 
 serving, nutmeg may be grated over the top. 
 
 BREAD. (2) Make a pint of 
 
 bread-crumbs ; put them m a stewpan with 
 as much milk as will cover them, the peel 
 of a lemon, a little nutmeg grated, and a 
 small piece of cinnamon; boil about ten 
 minutes ; sweeten with powdered loaf sugar ; 
 take out the cinnamon, and put in four eggs ; 
 beat all well together, and baJie half an hour, 
 or boil rather more than an hour« 
 
 PLAIN BREAD. Make five 
 
 ounces of bread-crumbs ; put them in a ba- 
 sin ; pour three-quarters of a pint of boiling 
 milk over them ; put a plate over the top to 
 keep in the steam ; let it stand twenty min- 
 utes, tlien beat it up quite smooth with two 
 ounces of sugar and a salt-spoonful of nutmeg. 
 Break four eggs on a plate, leaving out one 
 white ; beat them well, and add them to the 
 pudding. Stir it all well together, and put it 
 in a mould that has been well buttered and 
 floured ; tie a cloth over it, and boil it one 
 hour. 
 
 BUTTER-MILK. Turn t 
 
 Ik? 
 
 quarts of new milk with one of butter-mii 
 drain off the whey, and mix with the curd 
 the grated crumb of a twopenny roll, the 
 grated peel of a lemon, nearly a whole nut- 
 meg grated, half a pint of rich cream, six 
 ounces of clarified butter, and the beaten 
 yolks of nine, and the whites of four eggs ; 
 sweeten it well, and bake it with or without 
 a puff paste, for thi'ee- quarters of an hour. 
 It may be boiled. 
 
 CAMP. Put into a saucepan 
 
 half a pint of water, a quarter of a pound of 
 butter, a table-spoonful of brown sugar, add 
 the peel of half a lemon or orange. Let it 
 just come to a boil, take it off, and stir in a 
 quarter of a pound of sifted flour ; mix it 
 perfectly smooth, and when cold, beat in 
 four well-beaten eggs. Half fill twelve yel- 
 low tea-cups, and bake them in a quick 
 oven. Serve them with a sauce of wine, 
 sugar, and butter, in a sauce-tureen. 
 
 CARROT. Pound in a mortar 
 
 the red part of two large boiled carrots ; add 
 a slice of grated bread, or pounded biscuit, 
 two ounces of melted butter, the same quan- 
 tity of sugar, a table-spoonful of marma- 
 lade, or a bit of orange-peel minced ; half a 
 tea-spoonfiil of grated nutmeg, and four well- 
 beaten eggs ; mix all well together ; bake it 
 in a dish lined with puff paste. 
 
 CALF'S FEET. Pick all 
 
 the meat off three well-boiled calPs feet; 
 chop it finely, as also half a pound of fi-esh 
 beef suet ; grate the crumb of a penny loaf; 
 cut like straws an ounce of orange-peel, and 
 the same of citron ; beat well six eggs, and 
 grate a small nutmeg ; mix all tliese ingre- 
 dients well together, with a glass of brandy 
 or rum, and boil it in a cloth nearly three 
 hours. Serve widi a sweet sauce. 
 
 CHERRY, ANGLO FRAN- 
 
 CAIS. Pick two pounds of fine ripe 
 cherries, and mix them with a quarter of a 
 pound of picked red currants, (having ex- 
 tracted tlie seeds), and six ounces of powder 
 sugar. Make yoiu* pudding as directed in 
 ihe receipt for apple pudding, with Musca- 
 del raisins. You may make use of rasp- 
 berries instead of currants ; or mix red or 
 white currants and raspben'ies. 
 
 ^ CHEESE. (1) Grate one 
 
 pound of mild cheese; beat well four eggs, 
 oil one ounce of butter ; mix these ingredi- 
 ents together with one gill of cream, and 
 two table-spoonfuls of grated and sifted 
 bread, and bake it in a dish oi* tin lined 
 with puff paste. 
 
 CHEESE. (2) Grate a quarter 
 
 of a pound of good cheese, put it into a sauce- 
 pan with half a pint of good milk, and nearly 
 two ounces of grated bread, and one beaten 
 egg; stir it till the cheese be dissolved; put 
 it into a buttered dish, and brown it in a 
 Dutch oven. Serve it quite hot. 
 
 CITRON. (1) Mixtogedier 
 
 pint of cream and the yolks of six eggs ; add 
 to this four ounces of fine sugar, the same of 
 citron, shred fine, two spoonfuls of flour, and 
 a little nutmeg; place this mixture in a deep 
 dish, bake it in a hot oven, and turn it out. 
 
 CITRON. (2) The yolks oftliree 
 
 eggs beaten, half a pint of cream, one spoon- 
 ful of flour, two ounces of citron cut thin ; 
 sugar to the taste ; j)ut this into large cups 
 buttered; bake them in a tolerably quick 
 oven ; when done, tuni them out of the cups, 
 and serve. 
 
 , COCOA-NUT, Quarter pound 
 
PUDDINGS 
 
 160 
 
 PUDDINGS 
 
 Cocoa-nut grated : same of powdered sugar ; 
 three' and half ounces butter; whites of six 
 eggs ; half tea-spoon of rose-water, and half 
 glass of wine and brandy mixed. Take the 
 thin brown skin from off the meat, and wash 
 the pieces in cold water, and wipe dry. 
 Grate a quarter pound fine. Stir the butter 
 and sugar to a cream, and add the liquor 
 and rose-water to thenv Beat the whites 
 of tlie eggs till they stand alone, and then 
 stir them into the butter and sugar; after- 
 wards sprinkle in the grated nut, and stir 
 hard all the time. Put puff paste into the 
 bottom and sides of tlie dish, pour in the 
 mixture, and bake Jn a moderate oven 
 about half an hour. 'Grate loaf sugm- over 
 it, when cold. 
 
 COTTAGE POTATO OR 
 
 CAKE. Peel, boil, and mash, a couple of 
 pounds of potatoes: beat them up into a 
 smooth batter, with about three-quarters of 
 a pint of milk, two ounces of moist sugar, 
 and two or three beaten eggs. Bake it 
 about three-quarters of an hour. Three 
 ounces of currants or raisins may be added. 
 Leave out the milk, and add tliree ounces of 
 butter, — it will make a very nice cake. 
 
 COTTAGE. Six ounces of 
 
 currants, half a pound of minced suet, and 
 the same quantity of grated bread, half a 
 grated nutmeg, a table-spoonful of white 
 wine, or rose water ; mix all well together, 
 with die beaten yolks of five eggs, to a stiff 
 paste, and with floured hands roll it into 
 twelve or thirteen small puddings in the form 
 of sausages ; fry them gently in butter till of 
 a nice brown; roll tliem well in the frying- 
 pan . Serve wi th pounded loaf sugar strewed 
 over them, and with a sweet sauce. They 
 may be boiled. 
 
 CRANBERRY. Stir into a 
 
 quart of batter, made stiffer than for batter 
 pudding, about a pint of cranberries, and 
 boil as usual. Or, make a paste as for apple 
 pudding, and put in the cranberries, with 
 molasses sufficient to sweeten their acidity. 
 Eaten with sweet sauce. 
 
 CURD, BOILED. Rub the 
 
 curd of two gallons of milk, well drained, 
 through a sieve ; then mix with it six eggs, 
 a little cream, two spoonfuls of orange- 
 flower water, half a nutmeg grated, three 
 spoonfuls of flour, and three spoonfuls of 
 bread-crumbs, half a pound of currants, and 
 half a pound of raisins stoned. Let it lx)il 
 for one hour, in a tliick clodi well floured. 
 
 CURRANT. A pound of cur- 
 
 rants, a pound of suet, five eggs, four spoon- 
 
 fuls of flour, half a nutmeg, a tea-spoonful of 
 ginger, a little powder sugar and a little 
 salt; boil this for three hours. 
 
 CURRANT DRY. Cliop a 
 
 jwund of suet, and mix it with a pound of 
 liour, half a pound of currants, (well wash- 
 ed), a tea-spoonful of pounded ginger, half a 
 spoonful of tincture of saffron, and a little 
 salt ; stir in a sufficient quantity of water, 
 to make it a proper consistence ; tie it in a 
 buttered cloth, and boil it for an hour; serve 
 it with melted butter, white wine, and sugar. 
 
 CUSTARD. Boil a pint of 
 
 milk, and a quarter of a pint of good cream ; 
 thicken with flour and water made perfectly 
 smooth, till it is stiff enough to bear an egg 
 on it ; break in the yolks of five eggs ; sweet- 
 en widi powdered loaf sugar; grate in a 
 little nutmeg and the peel of a lemon: add 
 half a glass of good brandy ; then wliip the 
 whites of the frve eggs till quite stiff, and 
 mix gently all together: line a pie-dish with 
 good puff paste, and bake half an hour. 
 N. B. — Ground rice, potato flour, panada, 
 and all puddings made froni powders, are, 
 or may be, prepared in the same way. 
 
 DAMSON. Make a batter 
 
 with tliree well-beaten eggs, a pint of milk, 
 and of flour and brown sugar four table- 
 spoonfuls each; stone a pint of damsons, 
 and mix them with the batter ; boil it in a 
 buttered basin for an hour and a half. 
 
 EGG. Melt a quarter of a 
 
 pound of butter, and when nearly cold, mix 
 well widi it the following ingredients: — ten 
 weH-beaten yolks and two whites of eggs, 
 hiffl a pint of rich cream, half a pound of 
 gp&d brown sugar, two table-spoonfuls of 
 flour, a grated nutmeg, and a glass of bran- 
 dy ; bake it witii or without a lining of puff 
 paste. 
 
 FRUIT SUET. Of finely 
 
 minced suet, flour, grated bread, and clean- 
 ed currants, a quarter of a pound each ; a 
 tea-spoonful of pounded ginger, one of salt, 
 two ounces of brown sugar, and a tea-cup- 
 ful of milk; mix all the ingredients well to- 
 gether, and boil it in a cloth for two hours. 
 Serve with a sweet sauce. 
 
 FAMILY. Mix with a pound 
 
 of flour half a pound of raisins stoned and 
 chopped, the same quantity of minced snef, 
 a little salt, and milk or water sufficient to 
 make it into a stiff batter; boil it for five 
 hours. Serve with melted butter poured 
 over it. Two well-beaten eggs may ba 
 added. 
 
PUDDINGS 
 
 161 
 
 PUDDINGS 
 
 G9OSEBERRY, BOILED. 
 
 This pudding is made in the same manner , 
 as Apple pudding. I 
 
 INDIAN. (1) It is a good plan \ 
 
 to make this pudding the night before. It 
 requires a great deal of boiling, say four 
 or five hours. Sifted meal and warm milk 
 stirred together preRy stiff; salt and suffi- 
 cient molasses added. Boil in a stout bag, 
 or tightly covered pan; let not the water 
 get in, and be careful in tying to leave room 
 for the meal to swell. Let the milk you use 
 be warm, not scalding. You may add 
 chopped suet, which is very much liked by 
 some, and likewise ginger, if preferred. If j 
 you have not milk, water will answer. 
 
 INDIAN. (2) Boil in a quart of 
 
 as for tartlets, and bake it in a moderately 
 heated oven. 
 
 LEMON. (2) Put half a pound 
 
 of fresh butter with half a pound of loaf su- 
 gar, into a saucepan, and keep it sturring 
 over the fire till it boils; put it into an 
 earthen pan, and grate tlie rind of a large 
 lemon into it, and let it stand till cold ; beat 
 eight eggs, and squeeze the juice of the lemon 
 on them; mix the sugar and butter with 
 them ; put some rich puff paste at the bottom 
 of a dish, then put in the preparation, and 
 add bits of candied lemon-peel when you 
 have put in the preparation. Bake with 
 great care. 
 
 good milk a tea-cupful of Indian meal, stir 
 it constantly till tliick, sweeten it with trea- 
 cle or brown sugar, and stir in two well- 
 beaten eggs, and an ounce of butter; bake 
 it in a Dutch oven for half an hour. Haifa 
 grated nutmeg may be added, and it may be 
 made without eggs. A boiled Indian meal 
 pudding is made in the same way, and after 
 being mixed with or without eggs in it, it is ' 
 tied in a buttered and floured cloth, and boil- j 
 ed for two hours. It is eaten with cold or | 
 melted butter. j 
 
 I 
 I 
 
 LEMON. (3) Boil in water, 
 
 in a closely covered sauce[)an, two large 
 lemons till quite tender ; take out the seeds, 
 and fx)und the lemons to a paste ; add a 
 quarter of a pound of pounded loaf sugar, 
 the same of fresh butter beaten to a cream, 
 and the yolks of three well-beaten eggs; mix 
 all together, and bake it in a tin lined with 
 puff paste; take it out, strew over the top 
 grated loaf sugar, and serve it upon a napkin. 
 
 MACARONI. (1) Simmer half a 
 
 JELLY. Beat to a light cream 
 
 ten ounces of fresh butter, then add by de- 
 grees six well-beaten yolks of eggs, and half 
 a pound of loaf sugar pounded ; stir in two 
 or three table-spoonfuls of rose water; beat 
 to a stiff froth the whites of six eggs, mix 
 them in lightly ; bake it five-and-twenty min- 
 utes in a dish lined with puff paste. 
 
 JENETON. Butter a mould, 
 
 and ornament it with raisins in festoons, or 
 in any other form; line it with sponge bis- 
 cuit, and fill it up with a mixture of ratafia 
 and sponge biscuit, then pour a rich custard 
 over the whole, and let it stand for two 
 hours, adding more custard as it soaks into 
 the biscuit. The mould being quite full, tie 
 a cloth over it, and Iwil it for about an hour. 
 
 LEMON. (1) Peel four lemons 
 
 thin; boil them till they are tender; rub 
 them through a hair sieve, and preserve the 
 fine pulp. Take a pound of Naples biscuits, 
 a little grated nutmeg, and two ounces of 
 fresh butter, and pour over them some boil- 
 ing milk or cream in which a stick of cin- 
 namon has been boiled. When cold, mix 
 with them the pulp of the lemons, and eight 
 eggs well lieaten; sweeten according to 
 taste, and if you choose, add brandy. Edge 
 a dish with good puff paste, put in the mix- 
 ture; gai-nish the top with strings of paste, 
 14* 
 
 pound of macaroni in plenty of water, and a 
 table-spoonful of salt, till it is tender ; but 
 take care not to have it too soft ; though ten- 
 der, it should be firm, and the form entirely 
 presei-ved, and no part beginning to melt (this 
 caution will serve for the preparation of all 
 macaroni). Strain the water from it; beat 
 up five yolks and the whites of two eggs ; take 
 half a pint of the best cream, and the breast 
 of a fowl, and some thin slices of ham. 
 Mince the breast of the fowl with the han»; 
 add them with from two to thi-ee table- 
 spoonfuls of finely-grated cheese, and sea- 
 son with pepper and salt. Mix all these 
 with the macaroni, and put into a pudding- 
 mould well buttered, and then let it steam in 
 a stewpan of boiling water for about an 
 hour, dnd serve quite hot, with rich gravy 
 (as in Omelet). 
 
 MACARONI. (2) Take an ounce 
 
 or two of the pipe sort of macaroni, and 
 simmer it in a pint of milk, and a bit of 
 lemon-peel and cinnamon, till tender; put it 
 into a dish, with milk, three eggs, but only 
 one white, some sugar, nutmeg, a spoonful 
 of almond-water, and half a glass of raisin 
 wine; lay a nice paste round the edge of the 
 dish, and put it in the oven to bake. If 
 you choose you may put in a layer of orange- 
 marmalade, or raspberry-jam: in this case 
 you must not put in the almond-water or 
 ratafia. 
 
 MARROW. Put into a mug 
 
PUDDINGS 
 
 162 
 
 PUDDINGS 
 
 the crumb of a pound loaf, and pour over it 
 a pint and a half of boiling milk ; cover it 
 closely for an hour; cut into small bits half 
 a pound of marrow, stone and cut a quarter 
 of a pound of raisins, take the same quantity 
 of nicely-cleaned currants, beat well six eggs, 
 a tea-spoonful of grated lemon-peel, and the 
 same of nutmeg ; mix all thoroughly with the 
 bread and milk, sweeten it well with bro\vn 
 sugar, and bake it, widi or without a bor- 
 der of puff paste round the dish, thi-ee-quar- 
 ters of an hour. It may be baked in a 
 Dutch oven, and after baking it for three- 
 quartei-s of an hour, put a tin cover over 
 tlie top, and place the dish upon a gridiron, 
 over a slow fire, and let it remain for fifteen 
 minutes. 
 
 MILLET. Wash four table- 
 spoonfuls of the seed, boil it in a quart of 
 milk with grated nutmeg and lemon-peel, 
 and stir in, when a liltle cooled, an ounce of 
 firesh buttei'; sweeten with brown sugar, 
 and add the well-beaten yolks of four, and 
 the whites of two eggs, and a glass of wine 
 or spirits. Bake it in a buttered dish. 
 
 MY. Beat up the yolks and 
 
 whites of tliree eggs ; sti-ain them through a 
 sieve (to keep out the treddles), and gradu- 
 ally add to them about a quarter pint of milk ; 
 stir these well together. Rub together in a 
 mortar two ounces of moist sugar and as 
 much grated nutmeg as will lie on a shilling ; 
 stir them into the eggs and milk ; then put 
 in four ounces of flour, and beat it into a 
 smooth batter ; by degrees stir into it seven 
 ounces of suet (minced as fine as possible) 
 ahd three oimces of bread crumbs. Mix all 
 thoroughly together at least half an hour be- 
 fore you put the pudding into the pot. Put it 
 into an earthen pudding mould, that is well 
 buttered. Tie a cloth over it very tight; 
 put it into boiling water, and boil it tliree 
 nours. Half a pound of raisins cut in half 
 added to the above, will make a most admi- 
 rable plum pudding. Grated lemon-peel is 
 also fine. 
 
 Don't let the water cease to boil : it will 
 spoil the pudding. And it is always best 
 that puddings be mixed an hour or two be- 
 fore put into the pot, tlie ingredients get 
 amalgamated, and the whole becomes richer 
 and fuller of flavor. 
 
 The above pudding may be baked in an 
 oven, or under meat, as Yorkshire pudding, 
 only add half pint more milk. Should it be 
 , above an inch and quarter in thickness, it 
 will take full two hours; and requires care- 
 ful watching; for if tlie top gets burned, a 
 bad flavor will pervade the whole pudtiing. 
 Or, butter some tin patty-pans or saucers, 
 fill them with pudding, and bake about an 
 hour in a Dutch oven. 
 
 NASSAU. Put into a saucer- 
 pan the whole yolks of eight, and the whites 
 of four eggs, half a pound of pounded loaf 
 sugar, and one pound of fresh butter ; stir it 
 over a slow fire for nearly half an hour ; line 
 a dish with thin puff paste and lay over the 
 bottom a tliick layer of orange mai-malade, 
 and then put in the jr\dding. Bake it for 
 fifteen or twenty minutes. 
 
 NEW COLLEGE. Haifa pound 
 
 of fresh beef suet, finely minced, the same of 
 currants, a quarter of a pound of grated 
 bread, and of pounded sweet biscuit, half a 
 tea-spoonful of salt, a small nutmeg grated, 
 an ounce of candied orange-peel minced; 
 mix all together with two or three well- 
 beaten eggs, and fry them in butter till of a 
 light brown; shake the pan, and turn them 
 fi-equently till done enough. Serve with 
 pounded loaf sugar sti'ewed thickly over 
 them. 
 
 NEWMARKET. Put on to 
 
 boil a pint of good milk, with half a lemon- 
 peel, a little cinnamon, and a bay leaf; boil 
 gently for five or ten minutes; sweeten with 
 loaf sugar ; break the yolks of five, and the 
 whites of three eggs, into a basin ; beat them 
 well, and add the milk: beat all well togeth- 
 er, and strain through a fine hair sieve, or 
 tamis: have some inead and butter cut very 
 thin ; lay a layer of it in a pie-dish, and then 
 a layer of currants, and so on till the dish is 
 nearly full ; then pour tlie custard over it, 
 and bake half an hour. 
 
 NEWCASTLE, OR CABI- 
 NET. Butter a half melon mould, or quart 
 basin, and stick all round with dried cher- 
 ries, or fine raisins, and fill up with bread 
 and butter. Sec. as in the above; and steam 
 it an hour and a half. 
 
 NOTTINGHAM. Peel six 
 
 good apples; take out the core with the 
 point of a small knife, or an apple corer, 
 if you have one ; but be sure to leave the 
 apples whole; fill up where you took the 
 core from with sugar; place them in a pie- 
 dish, and pour over them a nice light batter, 
 prepared as for batter pudding, and bake 
 an hour in a moderate oven. 
 
 OATMEAL. Sift a pound 
 
 of oatmeal, chop three-quarters of a pound 
 of suet, mince some onions, and mince all 
 together ; season well widi pepjier and salt ; 
 half fill die skins, and boil and dress them 
 as directed in the receipt for ox-blood pud- 
 dings. Some people think a little sugar an 
 improvement. 
 
 ORANGE.(l)The yolks of, six 
 
PUDDINGS 
 
 163 
 
 PUDDINGS 
 
 and the whites of three eggs, well beaten ; 
 three table-spoonfuls of orange marmalade, 
 a quarter of a pound of loaf sugar pounded, 
 the same of melted butter ; three table-spoon- 
 fiils of grated bread, and a quarter of a pint 
 of cream; mix all well together, and lake 
 them in a dish lined with puff paste. 
 
 ORANGE. (2) Cut In half 
 
 three large Seville oranges, squeeze and 
 strain the juice; boil the' skins till quite 
 soft in a good deal of water, pound them in 
 a mortar, and mix them with nine beaten 
 yolks and four whites of eggs, nearly a 
 pound of pounded loaf sugar, the juice of 
 the oranges, and half a pound of melted 
 butter. Bake it in a dish lined with puff 
 paste for half an hour. 
 
 PEAS. Put a quart of split 
 
 peas to soak for two hours into warm wa- 
 ter ; boil them in soft water, with a bit of 
 butter, till sufficiently tender to press through 
 a sieve ; pulp them, and add tlie beaten yolk 
 of one egg, a little pepper and salt, and an 
 ounce of butter. Tie it into a buttered and 
 floured clolh, and put it on in boiling wa- 
 ter; boil it nearly an hour. 
 
 PLUM. (1) One pound of fresh 
 
 beef suet, finely minced, one pound of raisins 
 stoned, five table- spoonfuls of flour, five of 
 brown sugar, five well-ljeaten yolks, and 
 tln*ee whites of eggs, a tea-spoonful of salt ; 
 mix all the ingredients thoroughly, and boil 
 it in a cloth for four or five hours. Serve 
 with grated loaf sugar, and melted butter 
 poured over it. 
 
 PLUM. (2) One pound of rai- 
 
 sins, stoned and cut in half: one jx)und of cur- 
 rants, picked, washed, and dried: one pound 
 beef suet chopped fine: a pound of grated 
 bread, or half pound each of giated bread 
 and flour : eight eggs : quarter pound of su- 
 gar: salt-spoon of salt: table-s|X)on of cinna- 
 mon and mace mixed:. two grated nutmegs: 
 a glass each of wine and brandy : quarter 
 pound of sugar, and a pint of milk. Pre- 
 pare all the day before, except the eggs, that 
 you may mix them the next moining: it re- 
 quires six hours boiling. Beat the eggs 
 lightly, then put to them half the milk and 
 beat t(jgether. Stir in the flour and l)read ; 
 tlien the sugar by degrees; then the suet and 
 fruit; the fruit to be well floured to keep it 
 from sinking. Stir hard. Now add the 
 spice and lifjuor, and the remainder of the 
 milk. If it is not thick enough, add more 
 bread or flour; but if there be too miu^h 
 bread or flour the pudding will be heavy. 
 Wet the cloth in boiling water, shake it out, 
 and sprinkle it with flour. Lay it in a dish 
 and pour into it the pudding Tie it tight, 
 
 allowing room to swell. Boil six hours. 
 Wiien you turn it out, stick over the out- 
 side blanched almonds in slips or slips of cit- 
 ron, or both. If you add grated lemon-peel 
 to liie other ingredients it will much improve 
 the pudding. 
 
 PLUM. (3) One pound of the 
 
 best raisins stoned, half a pound of currants 
 well cleaned, one pound of fresh beef suet 
 finely minced, five table-spoonfiils of grated 
 bread, three of flour, two of brown sugar, 
 one tea-spoonful of pounded ginger, one of 
 cinnamon, and one of salt, six well-beaten 
 eggs, and three wine-glasses of rum, all to 
 be mixed tlioroughly together the day before 
 it is to be boiled. Boil it in a cloth or 
 mould for four or five hours. Serve widi 
 melted butter, or the following sauce: — 
 Heat two or three table-spoonfuls of sweet 
 cream, and mix it gradually with two well- 
 beaten yolks of eggs ; add tliree table-spoon- 
 fuls of white wine, brandy, or rum, and a 
 table-spoonful of sugar ; season with grated 
 nutmeg, and stir it over the fire till quite 
 hot ; but do not allow it to boil. 
 
 PLUM. (4) Four ounces of 
 
 apples finely minced, the same quantity of 
 currants cleaned and dried, and of grated 
 bread, two ounces of raisins, stoijed and 
 minced, two of pounded loaf sugar, half a 
 nutmeg grated, a little candied orange or 
 lemon peel, four well-beaten eggs, one ounce 
 and a half of melted butter just warm; mix 
 all the ingredients well together, and boil it 
 in a buttered shape for four hours. If the 
 pudding does not fill the shape, add a slice 
 of <the crumb of bread at the bottom. Serve 
 with a sweet sauce. 
 
 — PLUM, WITHOUT EGGS. 
 
 Haifa pound of grated bread, a quarter of a 
 pound of finely -minced suet, a table-sjwonfid 
 of flour, half a pound of currants cleaned, 
 radier niDie than two ounces of brown sugar, 
 a glass of brandy; mix all together with a 
 sufficient quantity of milk to make it into a 
 stiff batter; l)oil it in a cloth for four hours. 
 It may be baked, adding half a pound of 
 stoned raisins, and a little candied oi"ange 
 and lemon-peel. 
 
 POTATO. (1) Boil three 
 
 large mealy potatws, mash them very smooth- 
 ly, with one ounce of butter, and two or 
 three tal)le-spoonfuls of thick cream ; add 
 three well-beaten eggs, a little salt, grated 
 nutmeg, and a table-spoonful of brown sugar. 
 Beat all well togetliei-, and bake it in a but- 
 tered dish, fur half an houi- in an oven, and 
 three-quarters of an hour in a Dutch oven 
 A few currants may be added to the pud- 
 
PUDDINGS 
 
 164 
 
 PUDDINGS 
 
 POTATO. (2) Boil half a 
 
 pint of milk, and the same quantity of cream, 
 witli a stick of cinnamon, and the peel of 
 a lemon; strain it, and stir in gradually 
 three table-spoonfuls of potato flour, mix it 
 very smoothly, and add six well-beaten eggs ; 
 sweeten with pounded loaf sugar; stick all 
 round a buttered tin mould, dried cherries, 
 or stoned raisins, put in the pudding, and put 
 a bit of buttered linen over the top, and then 
 the cover of the mould ; place it in a sauce- 
 pan of boiling water, boil it for an hour and 
 a half; take care the water does not boil 
 over the mould. Serve with a sweet sauce. 
 
 POTATO-FLOUR. Boil some 
 
 cinnamon, lemon-peel, and sugar, in a quart 
 of milk; strain, and stir it with three table- 
 spoonfuls of potato flour previously mixed 
 smooth with a little cold milk ; stir it till it 
 be nearly cold ; add four well-beaten eggs, 
 a glass of sweet wine, or two table-spoonfuls 
 of spirits, and a little marmalade. Bake it 
 in a Dutch oven. 
 
 PRUNE. Stew a pound of 
 
 prunes with halfa pint of Port wine, a quarter 
 of a pint of water, and a large table-spoon- 
 ful of brown sugar; break the stones, and 
 put the kernels with the fruit; spread it 
 over a sheet of puff paste, wet the edges, and 
 roll it iato the form of a bolster ; tie it fa-m- 
 ly in a buttered and floured cloth, and boil 
 it between two and three hours. Serve 
 with sweet wine sauce. 
 
 QUINCE. Take a sufiicient 
 
 number of ripe quinces to yield a pound of 
 pulp, to which put half a jwund of powder- 
 sugar, cinnamon, and ginger, of each two 
 drachms, pounded; mix them well. Beat 
 up tlie yolks of eight eggs in a pint of cream, 
 add the quince, &c. stir the whole togedier, 
 flour a cloth, tie the pudding in, and boil it. 
 
 RATAFIA. Pound, with a lit- 
 tle rose-water, two ounces of blanched sweet 
 almonds, and half a quartei- of a pound of 
 ratafia cakes, add the well-beaten yolks of 
 six, and the whites of two eggs, a pint of 
 thick cream, two glasses of white wine, and 
 one ounce of pounded loaf sugar. Bake it 
 in a dish, lined with puff paste, for three- 
 quarters of an hour. 
 
 REGENT'S. Rub an earthen- 
 ware mould with butter, and cover the lx)t- 
 tom with bloom raisins stoned; cut thin 
 slices of the crumb of bread, butter, and lay 
 one or two over the raisins ; upon that put 
 a layer of ratafia cakes, then one of bread 
 and butter, and raisins ; do this till the mould 
 is nearly full, and |)our over it the following 
 mixtures: a pint of cream well sweetened 
 
 with jwunded loaf sugar, and mixed with 
 four well-beaten yolks of eggs, a glass of 
 brandy, and two table-spoonfi.»ls of rose-wa- 
 ter ; let it soak one or two hours ; put over 
 the top a piece of writing-paper buttered, 
 and tie over it a cloth. Boil it for one hour 
 and a half, and ser\'e it with wine sauce. 
 
 GROUND RICE, RICH. (1) 
 
 Stir into a quarter of a pound of ground 
 rice, a pint and a half of new milk ; put it 
 into a saucepan, and keep stirring it till it 
 boils ; then add three ounces of melted but- 
 ter, the same quantity of sugar, half a grated 
 nutmeg, and a tea-spoonful of grated lemon- 
 peel; mix it very well, and when cold, add 
 the well-beaten yolks of four, and the white 
 of one egg, widi a glass of ratafia, and half 
 a one of orange-flower or rose water ; bake 
 it in a dish lined widi puff paste for three- 
 quarters of an hour. Before serving, strew 
 over tlie top grated loaf sugar. 
 
 GROUND RICE. (2) Mix 
 
 till quite smooth, with a small tea-cupful of 
 ground rice, a quart of good milk, stir it 
 over die fire till it boils, and let it boil for 
 three minutes ; put it into a basin, and when 
 nearly cold, add the well-beaten yolks of 
 six, and the whites of two eggs, with a tea- 
 cupful of sweet wine, or a glass of spirits ; 
 put it into a buttered dish, and bake it for 
 three-quarters of an hour, or for one hour in ^ 
 a Dutch oven, in the same way as the mar- 
 row pudding is done. Any sort of preserve 
 may be put into the bottom of the dish, and 
 a sweet sauce may be served with it. 
 
 GROUND RICE. (3) Boil 
 
 in a pint of milk a quarter of a pound of 
 flour of rice, with two table-spoonfuls of 
 rose water, and half the peel of a lemon, stir 
 it till tliick, take it off, and mix in a quar- 
 ter of a pound of butler, half a grated nut- 
 meg, the well-beaten yolks of four, and the 
 whites of three eggs ; sweeten it with brown 
 sugar, pick out the lemon-peel, and boil it 
 in a butteied basin, Avhich must be complete- 
 ly filled. Serve with a sauce made with a 
 glass of white wine, boiled in melted butter, 
 and sweetened wiUi brown sugar. 
 
 RICE, BAKED OR BOIL- 
 
 ED. Wash in cold water and pick very 
 clean six ounces of rice, put it in a quart 
 stewpan three parts filled with cold water, 
 set it on the fire, and let it lioil five minutes; 
 pour away the water, and put in one quart 
 of milk, a roll of lemon-peel, and a bit of 
 cinnamon ; let it boil gently till the rice is 
 quite tender; it will take at least one hour 
 and a quarter; be careful to stir it every 
 five minutes; take it off the fire, and stir in 
 an ounce and a half of fresh butter, and beat 
 
PUDDINGS 
 
 165 
 
 PUDDINGS 
 
 ap three eggs on a plate, a salt-spoonful of 
 nutmeg, two ounces of sugar; put it into the 
 Iding, and stir it till it is quite smootli; 
 
 line a pie-dish big enough to hold it with 
 puff paste, notch it round the edge, put in 
 your pudding, and bake it three-quarters of 
 an hour: this will be a nice firm pudding. 
 
 If you like it to eat more like custard, 
 add one more egg, and half a pint more 
 milk ; it will be better a little thinner when 
 boiled ; one hour will boil it. If you like 
 it in little puddings, butter small tea-cups, 
 and either bake or boil them, half an hour 
 Avill do either: you may vaiy the pudding 
 by putting in candied lemon or orange peel, 
 minced very fine, or dried cherries, or tliree 
 ounces of currants, or raisins, or apples 
 minced fine. If the puddings are baked or 
 boiled, serve them with white wine sauce, or 
 butter and sugar. 
 
 RICE. Boil a quarter of a 
 
 pound of rice in water till it is soft, then 
 drain it in a sieve, and pound it in a mor- 
 tar; add five well-beaten yolks of eggs, a 
 quarter of a pound of butter, the same pro- 
 portion of sugar, a small nutmeg, and half 
 llie rind of a lemon grated ; work them well 
 togedier for twenty minutes, and add a 
 pound of cleaned currants ; mix it all well 
 and boil it in a pudding cloth for an hour 
 and a half. Serve with wine sauce. 
 
 RICE, WITHOUT EGGS. 
 
 Weigh six ounces of rice, six of brown su- 
 gar, and thiee and a half of fresh butter ; 
 break the butter into small bits ; wash the 
 rice in several waters ; put all into a pudding- 
 dish, and fill it up witli good milk; let it 
 soak some hours. Bake it in a moderate 
 oven for nearly two hours, and as the milk 
 wastes, fill up tiie dish with more, till the 
 rice be swelled and soft ; then let it brown. 
 
 RICH. Put into a saucepan 
 
 four ounces of fi-esh butter, six ounces of 
 pounded loaf sugar, six of marmalade, and 
 six ounces of eggs, well beaten; stir all one 
 way till it be tlioroughly warmed; it must 
 not be allowed to boil. Bake it in a dish 
 lined widi puff paste. 
 
 SAGO. (1) Boil five table-spoon- 
 fuls of sago, well picked and washed, in a 
 quart of water, also half the peel of a lemon, 
 and a stick of cinnamon ; when it is rather 
 tliick, add half a pint of white wine, and 
 sweeten it Avith good brown sugar ; beat six 
 yolks and three whites of eggs, pick out the 
 lemon-peel and cinnamon, mix all well to- 
 gether, and bake it in a dish with or witli- 
 out puff paste. 
 
 SAGO. (2) AVashhalfapound 
 
 of sago in several waters (vrarm) ; then pat 
 it into a saucepan with a pint of good milk, 
 and a little cinnamon ; let it boil till thick, 
 stirring frequently ; pour it into a pan, and 
 beat up with it half a pound of fresh butter ; 
 add to it the yolks of eight, and whites of 
 four eggs, beaten separately, half a glziss of 
 white wine, sugar according to taste, and a ' 
 little flour; mix all together well, and boil 
 it. Serve with sweet sauce. 
 
 ■ — SALT. Take a pint of milk, 
 
 four dessert-spoonfiils of flour, a little suet, 
 shred fine, four eggs, salt, and pounded gin- 
 ger; mix first the eggs and milk, then add 
 the flour, &c. ; put more flour, if necessary, 
 to give it consistence ; tie your pudding m 
 a buttered cloUi, and boil it two hours. 
 
 SCOTCH. Eight well-beaten 
 
 yolks and three whites of eggs, half a pound 
 of pounded loaf sugar, a quarter of a pound 
 of melted butter, tJie grated peel and juice 
 of one lemon; mix all togetlier, and bake it 
 in a dish lined with puff paste ;' turn it out 
 to serve, and strew over tlie top grated loaf 
 sugar. 
 
 SIPPET. Cut a small loaf into 
 
 extremely thin slices, and put a layer of them 
 at tlie bottom of a dish, tlien a layer of mar- 
 row, or beef suet, a layer of currants, and 
 then a layer of bread again, &c.j, and so 
 continue until the dish is* filled; mix four 
 eggs, well beaten, with a quart of cream, a 
 nutmeg, a quarter of a pound of sugar, and 
 pour over ; set it in the oven, it will take 
 half an hour baliinsf. 
 
 SHROPSHIRE. Of fresh beef 
 
 suet finely minced, of brown bread grated, 
 and of brown sugar, one pound each, one 
 nutmeg grated, a tea-cupful of brandy, eight 
 well-beaten yolks, and four whites of eggs ; 
 mix all well togedier, and l>oil it in a cloth 
 or mould for four hours. Serve it with a 
 sauce of melted butter, sugar, and two table- 
 spoonfuls of brandy. 
 
 SPRING FRUIT. Peel and 
 
 well wash finir dozen sticks of rhubarb: put 
 into a stewpan with the pudding a lemon, a 
 little cinnamon, and as much moist sugar as 
 will make it quite sweet; set it over a fire, 
 and reduce it to a marmalade ; pass through 
 a hair sieve, and proceed as directed for the 
 Boston pudding, leaving out die lemon-juice, 
 as the rhubarb will be found sufficiently acid 
 of itself. 
 
 SPEAKER'S. Stone and 
 
 weigh three-quarters of a pound of raisins. 
 Rub wiUi butter a plain oval mould, and 
 etick upon it some of the raisins, in stripes 
 
PUDDINGS 
 
 166 
 
 PUDDINGS 
 
 or circles. Cut some thin slices of bread 
 witliout the crust, dry them awhile before 
 the fire, butter, and cut them into strips 
 about an inch and a quarter wide ; line tlie 
 mould witli part of the bread, then put a 
 layer of raisins, and sti-ew over a table- 
 spoonful of prjunded loaf sugar ; add a layer 
 of tlie bread and butter ; fill the shape nearly 
 full, putting bread and butter on the top. 
 Mix with a pint of good milk, the weli-bea- 
 ten yolks of four eggs, a table-spoonful of 
 sugar, one and a half of rose-water, and a 
 glass of brandy ; pour this over the pudding, 
 and let it soak one or two hours. Bake it 
 tluee-quarters of an hour. It may be boiled 
 by steam for an hour and a half. 
 
 SQUASH. One good squash 
 
 stewed and well bruised; six laige apples 
 stewed tender; mix them well together; 
 add seven spoonfuls of bread ciiinih^ ; half 
 pint of milk; two spoonfuls of rose-water, 
 two of wine ; six eggs ; one gi-ated nutmeg ; 
 salt and sugar to taste. Beat all together till 
 smooth, and put in a dish lined with puft" 
 paste. Bake three-quarters of an hour. 
 
 SUET, WIGGY'S WAY. 
 
 Suet, a quarter of a pound; flour, three table- 
 spoonflils; eggs, two; and a little grated 
 ginger; milk, half a pint. Mince the suet 
 as fine as |X)ssible, roll it witli tlie rolling- 
 pin so as to mix it well with the flour ; beat 
 up the eggs, mix -them with the milk, and 
 then mix all together; wet your cloth well 
 in boiling water, flour it, tie it loose, put it 
 into boiling water, and boil it an hour and a 
 (}uarter. Mrs. Glasse has it, " when you 
 have made your water boil, tlien put your 
 pudding into your pot." 
 
 SUET. Mix six table-spoonfuls of 
 
 grated bread with a pound of finely-minced 
 fresh beef suet, or that of a loin of mutton, 
 one pound of flour, two tea-spoonfuls of salt, 
 six well-beaten eggs, and nearly a pint of 
 milk. Boil it in a cloth four or five hours. 
 Ser\'e it plain, or with a sweet sauce. 
 
 APPLE SUET. Of finely minc- 
 
 ed fi-esh mutton suet, grated apples, flour, and 
 brown sugar, six ounces each, half a grated 
 nutmeg, a tea-spoonful of salt, and four well- 
 beaten eggs, all well mixed together; boil- 
 ed for two hours, and served witli a sweet 
 
 SUET, OR DUMPLINGS. 
 
 Chop six ounces of suet very fine ; put it in 
 a basin with six ounces of flour, two ounces 
 of bread crurnljs, and a tea-spoonful of salt ;' 
 stir it all well together: beat two eggs on a 
 plate, add to them six table-spoonfuls of 
 milk, put it by degrees into the basin, and 
 
 stir it all well together; divide it into six 
 dumplings, and tie them separate, previously 
 dredging the cloth lightly witli flour. Boil 
 them one hour. This is very good the next 
 day fried in a little butter. The above will 
 make a good pudding, boiled in an earthen 
 ware mould, with tlie addition of one more 
 egg, a little more milk, and two ounces of 
 suet. Boil it two hours. 
 
 N. B. — The most economical way of mak- 
 ing suet dumplings, is to boil them without a 
 cloth in a pot with beef or mutton ; no eggs 
 are then wanted, and the dumplings are quite 
 as light without: roll them in flour before you 
 put them into the pot ; add six ounces of 
 curi-ants washed and picked, and you have 
 currant pudding: or divided into six parts, 
 currant dumplings; a little sugar will im- 
 prove them. 
 
 SWEETMEAT. Slice thin, 
 
 of orange, lemon-peel, and citron, an ounce 
 each ; lay them at the bottom of a dish, lin- 
 ed with a light puflf paste; mix with half a 
 pound of butler melted, the yolks of seven 
 eggs and the whites of two, and five ounces 
 of sugar ; |X)ur diis over the sweetmeats, and 
 set it in the oven ; it will take rather more 
 than half an hour baking. 
 
 TANSY. Pour over a thick 
 
 slice of the crumb of bread a quart of boiling 
 milk; cover it till cold. Beat the yolks of 
 four and the whites of two eggs. Pound 
 some tansy with two or thiee leaves of 
 spinach; squeeze the juice, and put as 
 much of it as will make the pudding a good 
 green color, a glass of brandy, half a grat- 
 ed nutmeg, and four ounces of fresh butter; 
 mix all the ingredients, sweeten, and put it 
 into a saucepan, and stir it over the fire till 
 it be hot. Bake it in a buttered dish for 
 half an hour. Before ser\ ing, strew grated 
 loaf sugar over the top. 
 
 TRANSPARENT. Put eight 
 
 eggs well-l)eaten into a stewpan with half 
 a pound of sugar, pounded fine, half a pound 
 of butter, and some nutmeg grated. Set it 
 on the fire, and keep (X)nstautly stirring till 
 it thickens. Tlien set it into a basin to 
 cool ; put a rich puff" paste round the edge 
 of the dish ; poi\r in die pudding, and bake 
 it in a modeiate oven. It will cut light 
 and clear. Candied orange and citron may 
 be added, if you tliink proper. 
 
 TAPIOCA. Put four table- 
 
 spoonfuls of tapioca into a quart of milk, 
 and let it remain all night, then put a spoon* 
 ful of brandy, some lemon-peel, and a little 
 spice; let them boil gently, add four eggs, 
 and the whites well l>eaten, and a quarter 
 of a pound of sugar. Bake it. 
 
PUDDINGS 
 
 167 
 
 QUA 
 
 TREACLE. Mix together a 
 
 pound of stoned raisins, three-quarters of a 
 pound of shred suet, a pound of flour, a pint of 
 milk, a table-spoonful of treacle, grated gin- 
 ger, and pounded spice; when well stirred up, 
 tie it m a floured cloth, and boil it four hours. 
 
 WEST COUNTRY. Mix, with 
 
 four well-beaten eggs, half a pound of apples 
 finely minced, the same quantity of grated 
 bread, and of well-cleaned currants, a quar- 
 ter of a pound of brown sugar, and half a 
 tea-spoonful of grated nutmeg , This pudding 
 may be eitiier boiled or baked, and instead 
 of grated bread, four ounces of whole rice 
 may be used, which must be boiled in milk, 
 strained, and allowed to be cold before being 
 mixed with the other ingredients. This 
 puddding is boiled one hour and a half, and 
 served with a sweet sauce. 
 
 WHITE. Boil in a quart of 
 
 milk two table-spoonfuls of rose-water ; add 
 to two well-beaten eggs, three table-spoonfuls 
 of flour, and a little salt ; stir it into the 
 milk, and if not thick, dredge in a little 
 more flour; just before it is taken off" the 
 fire, put in a bit of fresh butter the size of a 
 walnut. Serve it with red currant jelly up- 
 on tlie top of it. 
 
 — WHORTLEBERRY. This 
 
 pudding may be made both of flour and In- 
 dian meal. Use a pint of milk, some mo- 
 lasses, and a little salt, stirred quite stiff" 
 with meal, and a quart of berries mixed in 
 with a spoon. Tie the bag loose, and let it 
 boil three hours. When made of flour, pre- 
 pare it like batter puddings, rather stiff to 
 keep the berries from settling. Boil two 
 hours. Tie the bagr loose. 
 
 WILTSHIRE. Mix, with three 
 
 well-beaten eggs and a pint of milk, as much 
 flour as will make it a thick batter, and a 
 little salt; beat it for some minutes, stir in 
 gently a large tea-cupful of picked red cur- 
 rants; boil it in a cloth for two hours, turn 
 it out upon the dish it is to be served in, cut 
 it into slices about three-quarters of an inch 
 tliick, but do not separate them ; put tetween 
 each a thin slice of butter, and some brown 
 sugar, and serve it hot. 
 
 YORKSHIRE, under roast 
 
 MEAT. This pudding is an especially ex- 
 cellent accompaniment to a sirloin of beef, 
 — loin of veal, — or any fat and juicy joint. 
 Six table-spoonfuls of flour, three eggs, a 
 tea-spoonful of salt, and a pint of milk, so 
 as to make a middling stiff batter, a little 
 stifier than you would for pancakes; beat 
 it up well, and take care it is not lumpy; 
 put a dish under the meat, and let the drip- 
 
 pings drop into it till it is quite hot and 
 well greased; tlien pour in the batter;— 
 when the upper surface is brown and set, 
 turn it, that both sides may be brown alike: 
 if you wish it to cut firm, and the pudding 
 an inch thick, it will take two hours at a 
 good fire. 
 
 N. B. — The true Yorkshire pudding is 
 about half an inch tliick when done ; but it 
 is the fashion in London to make them fiill 
 twice that thickness. 
 
 PUFFS. (1) Roll out puff paste nearly 
 a quarter of an inch thick, and, with a small 
 saucer, or tin cutter of that size, cut it into 
 round pieces: place upon one side raspberry 
 or strawberry jam, or any sort of preserved 
 fruit, or stewed apples; wet the edges, fold 
 over the other side, and press it round with 
 the finger and thumb. Or cut the paste into 
 the form of a diamond, lay on the fi"uit, and 
 fold over the paste, so as to give it a trian- 
 gular shape. See Paste. 
 
 PUFFS. (2) Put into a saucepan a pint 
 of milk, boil slowly, and stir in flour till it 
 be very thick, like paste; when cold, mix 
 with it six well-beaten eggs, a table-spoon- 
 ful of sugar, half a nutmeg, and the peel of 
 a small lemon grated, and a table-spoonful 
 of brandy ; beat it well together for fifteen 
 minutes, and when quite light, drop it from 
 a dessert-s[X)on into a pan of boiling clarified 
 suet or lard. Serve with pounded loaf sugar 
 strewed over them. 
 
 PUFFS OF PRESERVED FRUIT. 
 
 Roll out, a quarter of an inch thick, good 
 puff paste, and cut it into pieces four inches 
 square; lay a small quantity of any kind of 
 jam on each, double them over, and cut them 
 into square, triangle, or, with a tin cutter, 
 half moons ; lay them with paper on a baking- 
 plate; ice them, bake them about twenty 
 minutes, taking care not to color tlie icing-. 
 
 PUNCH. See Justice's Sirup. 
 
 Q. 
 
 QUAILS, HUNTERS. Put the quails 
 in a saucepan, with a little butter, a bay- 
 leaf, sweet herbs, salt and pepper ; set them 
 on a fierce fire, and keep shaking them until 
 they are tender, when add a dessert-spoonful 
 of flour, half a glass of white wine, and a 
 little stock, when tliis is thick, and quite 
 hot (witliout boiling); take it fi-om the fire 
 and serve. 
 
 QUAILS, SPANISH. Mix die juice 
 
QUE 
 
 168 
 
 QUI 
 
 of a lemon with some butter, salt, and pep- 
 per; pick, and prepare eight quails, stuff 
 them well with the above mixture; then 
 £isten the legs to the body, leaving the claws 
 free; truss them a good shape, and put them 
 into a saucepan on slices of bacon, cover 
 them also with slices, add a gravy, moisten- 
 ed with equal portions of white wine and 
 stock ; set tliem on the fire for half an hour ; 
 then take them out, drain and untie tlie 
 birds, place each on a piece of fried bread 
 tlie size of the quail, and serve with a clear 
 Spanish sauce, with the addition of a little 
 glaze. 
 
 QUAILS, HOT PIE. Make a raised 
 crust in the usual way, spread over the bottom 
 of it some farce cuite mixed with the livers 
 of the quails, pounded, and some sweet 
 herbs ; take eight quails, take out the thigh 
 bones, and half dress them in a little butter 
 and sweet herbs ; when cold, stuff each with 
 some of the above-mentioned farce, arrange 
 them in the pie, fill up the intestines and the 
 centre with the remainder of the farce, season 
 it well, lay slices of bacon over the quails ; 
 wet the edges of the paste with water, cover 
 the pie with a very tliin crust; do it over 
 widi egg, and decorate it according to fancy. 
 Put it into the oven to bake, an hour and a 
 quarter will suffice. When done, raise the 
 top carefully, remove the bacon, take off all 
 the fat, pour in some good giavy, and serve. 
 
 QUAILS, ROASTED. Truss the birds, 
 and stuflf them with beef-suet and sweet 
 herbs, both shred very small, seasoned with 
 salt, pepper, and nutmeg ; fasten them to a 
 spit, and put thevn to the fire; iKiste with 
 salt and water when they first Ijegin to get 
 warm; then dredge them with flour, and 
 baste with butter. Put an anchovy, two or 
 three shallots, and the juice of a Seville or- 
 ange into a little rich gravy ; set it on the 
 fire, shake it about, and when the anchovy 
 is dissolved, serve it with the quails. Gar- 
 nish the dish with filed bread crumbs. These 
 birds are sometimes roasted, wrapped first in 
 a slice of bacon, and then in a vine-leaf 
 They should be kept at a moderate distance 
 from the fire. 
 
 QUAILS, STEWED. Put a little 
 butter worked up with flour, and a few green 
 onions into a stewpan; when brown, put 
 in some quails, a glass of wine, the same of 
 stock, parsley, some more small onions, a 
 bay-leaf, and two or three cloves ; stew these 
 till the quails are sufficiently done. Garnish 
 your dish with cock's-combs, artichoke bot- 
 toms, fried bread, &c. 
 
 QUEEN'S POTAGE. Draw, wash, 
 and clean three chickens, or young fowls, put 
 
 them into a stewpan, with a bunch of parsley 
 and some well-seasoned boiling veal stock; 
 let it stew for an hour ; take out the fowk, 
 and pound all the meat to a fine paste in a 
 marble mortar, with the crumb of two penny 
 loaves, previously soaked in the soup, and 
 the yolks of three or four hard boiled eggs; 
 rub all through a sieve, and add it to the 
 soup stirring it well. Put a quart of rich 
 cream on the fire, and stir it till it boils, and 
 then mix it with the soup and serve it quile 
 hot. 
 
 QUEEN OR HEART CAKES. One 
 pound of sifted sugar, one pound of butter, 
 eight eggs, one pound and a (jiiarter of flour, 
 two ounces of currants, and half a nutmeg 
 grated. Cream the butter, and mix it well 
 with die sugar and spice, then put in half 
 the eggs, and beat it ten minutes — add the 
 remainder of the eggs, and work it ten min- 
 utes longer — stir in die flour lightly, and the 
 currants afterwards, — then take small tin 
 pans of any shape (hearts the most usual), 
 rub the inside of each with butter, fill and 
 bake them a few minutes in a hot oven, on 
 a sheet of matted wire, or on a baking plate 
 — when done, remove them as early as pos- 
 sible from die pans. 
 
 QUEEN'S DROPS. Leave out four 
 ounces of flour from the last receipt, and 
 add two ounces more of currants, and two 
 ounces of candied peel, cut small — work it 
 the same as in the last lecoipt, and when 
 ready put the mixture into a biscuit funnel, 
 and lay them out in dro|)s about the size of 
 half a crown, on white i)aper, — bake diem 
 in a hot oven, and when nearly cold, take 
 them from the paper. 
 
 QUINCE COMPOTE. Take six 
 quinces, cut them in halves, and core them; 
 scald and pare them neatly. Put some clear 
 sirup into a preserving-pan, with the juice 
 of a lemon ; when hot, add the quinces, and 
 give them a boil together; drain die fruit, 
 arrange it in the compotier; leave the sirup 
 to thicken a little, and pour it over die 
 quinces. 
 
 QUINCE CREAM. Take four or five 
 ripe quinces, and roast them, but not to sof- 
 ten them; pare, core, slice them thin, and 
 then boil them slowly in a pint of good 
 cream, widi a little ginger; when tolerably 
 thick, strain it, add sugar to your taste, and 
 flavor it with rose-water. 
 
 QUINCE JELLY. Quinces for jelly 
 ought not to be quite ri|ie, they should, how- 
 ever, be of a fine yellow color ; take off the 
 down which covers them, quarter, core, put 
 them into a saucepan, widi watei- enough 
 
QUI 
 
 169 
 
 to cover them; set them on the fire, and 
 vrhea soft, lay the pieces on a sieve to drain, 
 pressing them very slightly; strain the liquor, 
 and measure it; clarify, and boil to casse 
 an equal quantity of sugar ; then take it off, 
 add the liquor to it, stirring it well; when 
 mixed, put it on the fire, still stirring; as 
 soon as the jelly spreads over the spoon, and 
 falls from it like molasses; take it from 
 tlie fire, and when cold, pour it into pots. 
 
 QUINCES TO KEEP. Gather the 
 fruit quite ripe, but perfectly sound; rub 
 each carefiilly with a clean cloth, to remove 
 the down ; then quarter, and put them into 
 bottles, corked tight. Give them half an 
 hour's boil in the bain-marie. 
 
 QUINCE MARMALADE. Gather 
 the fruit when fiiUy ripe, and of a fine yel- 
 low; pare, quarter, and core it. Put the 
 quinces into a saucepan, with a little water, 
 set them on the fire until they are quite soft; 
 tlien take them out, and lay them on a sieve 
 to drain; rub tliem through, weigh the 
 pulp; boil an efjual quantity of sugar to 
 petit casse, then add the pulp, stir them 
 together ovei- the fire, until it will fall from 
 the spoon like a jelly; the marmalade is 
 then fit to be put into {X)ts, and when cold, 
 cover them close. 
 
 QUINCES TO PICKLE. Pare and 
 cut half a dozen quinces into small pieces, 
 and put them, with a gallon of water, and 
 two pounds of honey, into a large sauce- 
 pan; mix them togetlier well, and set them 
 on a slow fire for half an hour: strain the 
 liquor into a jar ; when ([uite cold, wipe the 
 quinces perfectly dry, and put diem into it; 
 cover them very close. 
 
 QUINCES PRESERVED IN WHITE 
 
 JELLY. Take as many quinces as you 
 may require, choose them sound; pare, 
 quarter, and core them, strewing povvder- 
 sug:ir over as you do them, filling up all the 
 holes also with sugar; throw in a small quan- 
 tity of water, and when all are cut, add more 
 water, and set them on a fierce fiie to boil 
 quickly. As soon as the quinces are tender, 
 and the sirup clear, add some apple-jelly, 
 give the whole one boil, and then pour it 
 into gkisses ; when cold, drain off the sirup 
 and jelly, put them into a saucepan, and 
 let tliem boil as quick as you can ; just be- 
 fore the jelly is taken off, put in a small 
 quantity of musk, or any other ingredient 
 you may wish to flavor the preserve with, 
 and then pour it in the glasses again, over 
 the quinces, and when cold cover them. 
 This may also be colored red by adding a 
 email quantity of prepared cochineal; in 
 this case, the jelly should be red too. 
 15 
 
 i» tAis spamsh wa 
 
 ki:^^ 
 
 QUIN 
 
 Pare and core ten pounds of quinces, 
 them into a stewpan with a pint and a h'alJ 
 of water and two pounds of fine sugar 
 them on a slow fire, and when they begin 
 to dry, moisten them widi rose-water and 
 sack, or white wine; then press the paste 
 dirough a coarse sieve, add two pounds of 
 sugar, a little orange-flower and rose water. 
 When sufiiciently done, it will come off 
 clean, if dropped on a plate; then set it 
 aside to cool. Put it into shallow pots, 
 strew perfumed comfits over, and cover 
 them close. 
 
 QUINCES, SIRUP OF. Pare and 
 scrape some vei-y ripe quinces into a linen 
 cloth, press out the juice, which put in a 
 very warm place, or where it is exposed to 
 the sun, until all the fecula falls to the bot- 
 tom; then strain it well, and for every 
 (juarter of a pound of juice, take one pound 
 of sugar ; mix them together, and boil the 
 whole to perle; take it off, and when the 
 sirup is nearly cold, it may be bottled. 
 Take care to keep the bottles well corked. 
 
 QUINCE TART. Take some preser- 
 ved quinces, make a sirup with some sugar 
 and water, of which, and the preserve, take 
 an equal weight, and put it into a preserving- 
 pan; boil, skim, and then put in the fruit; 
 when tolerably clear, lay the quinces in a 
 tart-dish with puff paste as usual ; cover and 
 bake it ; as soon as it is done raise the top 
 gently, pour in the sirup, ice it, and serve. 
 
 QUIN'S SAUCE. See Sauce. 
 
 QUINTESSENCE OF ANCHOVY. 
 
 The goodness of this preparation depends 
 ulmost entirely on having fine mellow fish, 
 that have been in pickle long enough (t. e. 
 about twelve montlis) to dissolve easily, yet 
 are not at all rusty. 
 
 Choose those that are in the state they 
 come over in, not such as have been put into 
 fresh pickle, mixed with red paint, which 
 some add to improve the complexion of the 
 fish; it has been said, that others have a 
 trick of putting anchovy liquor on pickled 
 sprats; you will easily discover this by wash- 
 ing one of them, and tasting the flesh of it, 
 which in the fine anchovy is mellow, red, 
 and high-flavored, and the bone moist and 
 oily. Make only as much as will soon be 
 used, the fresher it is the better. 
 
 Put ten or twelve anchovies into a mortar, 
 and pound them to a pulp ; put this into a 
 very clean iron, or silver, or very well 
 tinned saucepan; then put a large table- 
 spoonful of cold spring-water (we prefer 
 good vinegar) into the mortar; shake it 
 round, and pour it to the pounded anchovies. 
 
RABBIT 
 
 170 
 
 RABBIT 
 
 set them by the side of a slow fire, very fre- 
 quently stirring them together till they are 
 melted, which they will be in the course of 
 five minutes. Now stir in a quarter of a 
 drachm of good cayenne pepper, and let it 
 remain by the side of the fire for a few min- 
 utes longer ; then, while it is warm, rub it 
 through a hair sieve, widi the back of a 
 wooden spoon. 
 
 The essence of anchovy, is made with 
 double the above quantity of water, as they 
 are of opinion that it ought to be so thin as 
 not to hang about the sides of the bottle ; 
 when it does, the large surface of it is soon 
 acted upon by the air, and becomes rancid 
 and spoils all the rest of it. 
 
 A roll of thin-cut lemon-peel infused with 
 the anchovy, imparts a fine, fresh, delicate, 
 aromatic flavor, which is very grateful ; this 
 is only recommended when you make sauce 
 for immediate use ; it will keep much better 
 without: if you wish to acidulute it, instead 
 of water make it with artificial lemon-juice. 
 
 R. 
 
 RABBITS. (1) Truss your rabbits short, 
 lay them in a basin of warm water for ten 
 minutes, then put them into plenty of water, 
 and boil them about half an hour; if large 
 ones, three-quarters; if very old, an hour: 
 smother them with plenty of white onion 
 sauce, mince the liver, and lay it round the 
 dish, or make liver sauce, and send it up in 
 a boat. 
 
 Obs. — Ask those you are going to make 
 liver sauce for, if they like plain liver sauce, 
 or liver and parsley, or liver and lemon sauce. 
 
 N. B. — It will save much trouble to the 
 carver, if the rabbits be cut up in the kitchen 
 into pieces fit to help at table, and die head 
 divided, one-half laid at each end, and slices 
 of lemon and the liver, chopped very finely, 
 laid on the sides of the dish. 
 
 At all events, cut off the head before you 
 send it to table, we hardly rememl)er that 
 the thing ever lived if we don't see tiie head, 
 while it may excite ugly ideas to see it cut 
 op in an attitude imitative of life; besides, 
 for the preservation of the head, the poor an- 
 imal sometimes suffers a slower death. 
 
 RABBITS. (2) If your fire is clear 
 and sharp, thirty minutes will roast a young, 
 and forty a full grown rabbit. When you 
 lay it down, baste it with butter, and dredge 
 it lightly and carefully with flour, that you 
 may have it frothy, and of a fine light brown. 
 While the rabbit is roasting, boil its liver 
 with some parsley ; when tender, chop them 
 together, and put half the mixture into some 
 melted butter, reserving the other half for 
 
 garnish, divided into little hillocks. Cut 
 off the head, and lay half on each side oi- 
 the dish. 
 
 Obs. — A fine, well-grown (but young) 
 warren rabbit, kept sometime after it has 
 been killed, and roasted widi a stuffing in 
 its belly, eats veiy like a hare, to the nature 
 of which it approaches. It is nice, nourishing 
 food when young, but hard and unwholesome 
 when old. 
 
 RABBIT, BROILED. Take a couple of 
 young rabbits, cut them up, and put them to 
 steep for a few hours in a little oil, mixed 
 with parsley, leeks, a few mushrooms, and a 
 clove of garlic, all shred fine, salt and pepper; 
 roll each piece of rabbit in a raslier of bacon, 
 and put them, with a part of the seasoning, 
 into pieces of white paper ; butter the papers 
 inside; broil upon a gridiron over a vei"y 
 slow fire, and serve hot in the papers. 
 
 RABBITS, IN A FRICASSEE. Take 
 two fine white rabbits, and cut them in 
 pieces, by cutting off the legs, shoulders, and 
 back; blanch them in boiling water, and 
 skim them for one minute; stir a few trim- 
 mings of mushrooms in a stewpan over the 
 fire, with a bit of butter, till it begins to fry, 
 then stir in a spoonful of flour; mix into the 
 flour, a little at a time, nearly a quart of 
 good consomme, which set on the fire, and 
 when it boils, put the rabbits in, and let them 
 boil gently till done, then put them into 
 another stewpan, and reduce the sauce till 
 nearly as thick as paste; mix in about half 
 a pint of good boiling cream, and when it 
 becomes the thickness of bechatnelle sauce 
 in general, squeeze it through the tammy 
 to the rabbits ; make it very hot, shake in a 
 few mushrooms, the yolk of an egg, and a 
 little cream, then serve it to table. Rabbits 
 may also be preserved, white or brown, in 
 the same manner as chickens. 
 
 RABBIT, MINCED. Take the re- 
 mains of a roasted rabl)it, cut off all the 
 meat, and mince it with a little roast mutton. 
 Then break the bones of the rabbit into 
 small pieces, and put them into a stewpan, 
 with a slice of butter, some shallots, half a 
 clove of garlic, thyme, a bay-leaf, and basil; 
 give these a few turns over the fire, then shake 
 in a little flour; moisten with a glass of red 
 wine, and the same quantity of stock, and 
 let it boil over a slow fire for half an hour ; 
 strain it off, and put in the minced meat, 
 adding salt and coarse pepper; heat the 
 whole, without boiling, and serve hot: gar- 
 nish widi fried bread. 
 
 RABBITS IN A MINUTE. 'Cut your 
 rabbits into pieces, wipe them perfectly diy ; 
 put a quarter of a pound of butter into a 
 
RABBIT 
 
 171 
 
 RABBIT 
 
 stewpan, set it on the fire, and when warm, 
 put in the rabbit with a little pounded spice, 
 salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg ; let the fire 
 be brisk, and as soon as the pieces are 
 browned, add a little shred parsley and shal- 
 lots, leave it three or four minutes longer on 
 the fire, and then serve. Ten or fifteen min- 
 utes are sufficient to cook this dish. 
 
 RABBIT PIE. Cut a couple of young 
 rabbits into quarters, and bruise a quarter 
 of a pound of bacon in a mortar, with the 
 livers, some pepper, salt, a little mace, pars- 
 ley, cut small, and a few leaves of sweet ba- 
 sil ; when diese are all beaten fine, line your 
 pie-dish with a nice crust, then put a layer 
 of the seasoning at the bottom of the dish, 
 and put in the rabbits; pound some more 
 bacon in a mortar, mix with it some fresh 
 butter, and cover tlie rabbits with it, and 
 over that lay thin slices of bacon; put on the 
 cover, and place it in the oven ; it will be 
 done in about two houi's ; when baked, take 
 off the cover, take out the bacon and skim 
 off the fat, and if there is not a sufficient 
 quantity of gravy, add some rich mutton or 
 veal gravy. 
 
 RABBIT PIE, RAISED. Cut your 
 rabbits in pieces, and put them into a stew- 
 pan, with a bit of fresh butter, lemon-juice, 
 pepper, salt, parsley, thyme, shallots, chopped 
 very fine, and a little pounded mace. When 
 tlie pieces of rabbit are about half done, lay 
 them on a dish, and when cold, raise the 
 cinst; put light forcemeat at the bottom; 
 the rabbit upon it, and more forcemeat upon 
 the top. Cover it, and put it in a moderate 
 oven to bake gently; when done, take off 
 the cover, and add a ragout of sweetbreads 
 cock's combs, &c., and serve. 
 
 RABBITS, PORTUGUESE. Cutoff 
 the heads of a couple of rabbits, turn the 
 backs upwards, the two legs stripped to the 
 end, and tnissed'with a couple of skewers 
 in the same manner as 'chickens, the wings 
 turned like the pinions of a chicken ; lard 
 and roast them with good gravy ; if they are 
 intended for boiling, they should not be lard- 
 ed, but be served with bacon, and greens, 
 or celery sauce. 
 
 RABBITS, POTTED. Take two or 
 three young, but full-grown rabbits, cut them 
 up, and take off the leg bones at the thigh, 
 season them well with pepper, mace, cay- 
 enne, salt, and allspice, all in very fine pow- 
 der, and put them into a small pan, placing 
 them as closely together as possible. Make 
 the top as smooth as you can. Keep out the 
 heads and carcasses, but take off the meat 
 about the neck. Put plenty of butter, and 
 let the whole bake gently. Let it remain in 
 
 the pan for two days, then put it into small 
 pots, adding butter. The livers should also 
 be put in. 
 
 RABBIT PRESERVED. Having 
 boned a rabbit, lard it with bacon and ham ; 
 season it well inside and out, roll it up, be- 
 ginning with the legs, make it tight, and 
 tie it. Put it into a stew-pan, with some 
 oil, thyme, bay-leaf, and basil; set these 
 on the fire till done enough (but without 
 boiling). When sufficiently cooked, take 
 out the rabbit, drain, let it cool, and tliea" 
 cut it into small pieces, which put into bot- 
 tles; fill them with oil and cover with wet 
 bladders. When required for table, take 
 them out, cut them into fillets, and place 
 on a dish with shred parsley and oil. 
 
 RABBITS PULLED. Half boil your 
 rabbits, witli an onion, a little whole pep- 
 per, a bunch of sweet herbs, a piece of 
 lemon-peel ; pull tlie flesh into flakes ; put 
 to it a little of the liquor, a bit of butter roll- 
 ed in flour, pepper, salt, nutmeg, chopped 
 parsley, and the liver boiled and bruised; 
 boil this up, shaking it round, and serve. 
 
 RABBITS, ROASTED. Truss them 
 for roasting, and stuff tliem with the liver 
 minced raw, grated bread, and ham, butter 
 or suet, and chopped parsley, seasoned with 
 a little lemon thyme, grated nutmeg, salt, and 
 pepper, and bound with an egg beaten. Sew 
 them up, and roast them before a quick fire, 
 and baste them with buttei". Serve them 
 with gravy, or melted butter with lemon 
 pickle in it. Two will take an hour to 
 roast. They may also be fricasseed or fried, 
 cut into joints, with plenty of fried parsley, 
 and sen'ed with a sauce made of the liver 
 and some parsley chopped, and mixed in 
 melted butter, with a little pepper and salt, 
 or made into a pie the same as chickens. 
 
 RABBIT SOUP. Cut an old rabbit 
 into pieces, put them into a quart of water ; 
 boil it well, take out all the bones, and beat 
 the meat in a marble mortar, as for potting; 
 add a little salt, mace, and white pepper, to 
 your taste; stir it into the liquor the rabbit 
 was boiled in, with the addition of a very 
 little cream. 
 
 N. B. The meat of the whole rabbit is 
 too much for one quart; quei"y, would it 
 not be enough for twol 
 
 RABBITS STEWED, WITH A 
 
 BROWN SAUCE, OR WITH A WHITE 
 
 SAUCE. Wash and clean the rabbits well, 
 let them lie for two or three houi-s in cold 
 water, cut them into joints, wash and diy 
 them in a cloth, dust them with flour, and 
 fiy them of a light brown with butter, and 
 
RAG 
 
 172 
 
 RAS 
 
 Btew them in the following sauce: Brown 
 Aree ounces of butter in a stewpan, with a 
 table-spoonful of flour, a minced onion, some 
 pepper and salt ; add a pint of gravy and 
 the rabbits, stew tliem till they are tender, 
 and a little before serving, stir in a table- 
 spoonful of ketchup. When it is wished to 
 dress with a white sauce, the rabbits are not 
 fried, hut stewed in white stock, which is 
 seasoned with white pepper, and salt, and 
 thickened with a piece of butter mixed witli 
 flour. A few minutes before serving, a little 
 cream is added, and a table-spoonful of lemon 
 pickle. 
 
 RADISHES IN BROTH. Take some 
 young radishes, pick and scald them, cut 
 them into halves or quarters according to 
 their size, and boil tiiem with a slice of ba- 
 con in some stock. In a little time take 
 them out, drain, and put them into another 
 stew-pan, with consomme, or veal gravy, 
 and a bit of butter rolled in flour. Let them 
 stew gently in this till they are flavored, of 
 a good color, and tlie sauce pretty thick ; 
 then serve them. 
 
 RAGOUT POWDER. Two ounces 
 of truffles, two of dried mushrooms, tlie 
 peel of a lemon, and the same of a Seville 
 orange grated, half a grated nutmeg, half an 
 ounce of mace, the same of pepper, and one 
 drachm of cayenne, dry them all well before 
 the fire, pound them to a fine powder, add 
 one ounce of salt, sift the powder through a 
 sieve, and keep it it in a bottle for use. 
 
 RAGOUT OF SNIPES. Pick six or 
 eight snipes very nicely, but do not wash 
 them ; take out the inside. Roast the birds, 
 and cut off" all the meat from the breasts, in 
 thin slices; pound the bones, legs, and 
 backs, in a mortar, and put lliem into a 
 stew-pan, with the juice of a lemon, a little 
 flour, and some well-seasoned gravy ; boil it 
 till it be thick, and well flavored with the 
 game, then strain it. Cut half a pound of 
 nam into thin long slices, and heat it in a 
 little butter, with two minced shallots ; put 
 it, with the breasts of the snipes, into the 
 strained sauce, and let it boil. Pound the 
 inside, or trail, with a little salt, sj)read it 
 over thin bits of toasted bread, and hold 
 over it a hot salamander. Put the ragout 
 upon tliis, and place the ham round it. 
 
 RAGOUT OF COLD VEAL. Either 
 a neck, loin, or fillet of veal, will furnish 
 this excellent i"agout with a very little expense 
 or trouble. Cut tlie veal into handsome cut- 
 lets; put a piece of butter or clean drip[)iiig 
 into a frying-pan; as 'soon as it is hot, flour 
 and fry the veal of a light brown: take it 
 out, and if you have no gravy ready, make 
 
 some as follows: put a pint of boiling water 
 into the frying-pan, give it a boil up for a 
 minute, and strain it into a basin while you 
 make some thickening in the following man- 
 ner: put about an ounce of butter into a 
 stewpan ; as soon as it melts, mix witli it as 
 much flour as will dry it up ; stir it over the 
 fire for a few minutes and gradually add to it 
 the gi'avy you made in the frying-pan; let 
 them simmer together for ten minutes (till 
 thoroughly incorporated) ; season it with pep- 
 per, salt, a little mace, and a wine-glassful of 
 mushroom ketchup or wine ; strain it through 
 a taniis to the meat, and stew very gently 
 till the meat is thoroughly warmed. If you 
 have any ready boiled bacon, cut it in slices, 
 and put it in to warm with tlie meat. 
 
 RAMEQUINS. Take a quarter of a 
 pound of Cheshire cheese, scrajjed, the same 
 quantity of Gloucester cheese, and beat them 
 in a mortar, with a quarter of a pound of 
 fresh butter, the yolks of four eggs, and the 
 inside of a French roll, boiled in cream tilj 
 soft ; when all is beaten to a paste, mix it 
 with the whites of the eggs, previously beat- 
 en, and put the paste into small paper cases, 
 made rather long than square, and put them 
 to bake in a Dutch oven, till of a fine brown, 
 They should be served quite hot. You may, 
 if you think proper, add a glass of white wine. 
 
 RASPBERRY CREAM. See Cream- 
 
 RASPBERRY DUMPLINGS. Take 
 some good puff" paste, roll it out, and spread 
 raspben-y jam over it; roll it up, and boil it 
 rather more than an hour; cut it into five 
 slices ; pour melted butter into the dish, grate 
 sugar round, and serve. 
 
 RASPBERRY FRITTERS. Grate 
 two Naples biscuits, or the crumb of a French 
 roll ; put to either a pint of boiling cream. 
 When this is cold, add to it tlie yolks of four 
 eggs, well beaten; beat all well together 
 with some raspl)en-y juice ; drop this in very 
 small quantities, into a pan of boiling lard; 
 stick them with blanched almonds, sliced. 
 
 RASPBERRY FLUMMERY. Mix 
 
 with half a pint of white wine vinegar one 
 pound of raspberries, or one pound of pre- 
 served raspberries, let it boil for three or 
 four minutes, stirring it constanly; strain 
 it tlirough a hair sieve ; dissolve one ounce 
 of isinglass in half a pint of water; mix 
 with it three-quarters of a pound of pounded 
 sugar, add it to the strained raspberries 
 stir it all well together; boil, and stniin it 
 through a bit of muslin, and put it into a 
 shape. Turn it out when cold. 
 
 RASPBERRY JE}XY. See Jelhf, 
 
REL 
 
 173 
 
 RICE 
 
 RASPBERRY ICE. Press the juice 
 from as many raspberrries as will yield a 
 pound and a half; put it into a glazed pan, 
 and leave it for four days. Then carefully 
 raise the skin that has formed on the top of 
 it, pour off the juice into another vessel; 
 clarify a pound and a half of sugar, with a 
 pint and a half of water, add the juice, and 
 give them half a dozen boils ; if not suffi- 
 ciently red, put in a root of orkanet, which 
 leave in till of the proper color; strain the 
 preparation through a sieve ; when cold, put 
 it into the sabotiere, and freeze it. See Ice. 
 
 RASPBERRY SPONGE. Dissolve 
 in a little water three-quarters of an ounce 
 of isinglass, add to it three-quarters of a 
 pint of cream, and the same proportion of 
 new milk, nearly half a pint of raspberiy 
 jelly, and the juice of a lemon. Whisk it 
 well one way till it becomes thick, and looks 
 like sponge, then put it into an earthenware 
 mould, and turn it out the next day. 
 
 RASPBERRY TART. Line your 
 dish with a nice puff paste, lay in sugai* 
 and fruit, put bars across, and biike. 
 
 RASPBERRY TART with cream. 
 Line a patty-pan with thin puff paste, lay 
 in some raspberries, and strew some very 
 finely sifted sugar over them; cover them 
 with pufF paste, and bake it ; when done, 
 cut it o|ien, and put in half a pint of cream, 
 in which has been previously beaten the yolks 
 of two or three eggs, and sweetened with a 
 little sugar; when this is added to the tart, 
 return it to the oven five or six minutes. 
 
 RED CABBAGE. Get a fine purple 
 cabbage, take off the outside leaves, quarter 
 it, take out the stalk, shred the leaves into 
 a colander, sprinkle them with salt, let them 
 remain till the morrow, drain them diy, put 
 them into a jai", and cover them with the 
 pickle for beet roots. 
 
 RED MULLET. Scrape and wash 
 them, fold them in buttered paper, lay them 
 into a dish, and bake them gently. The 
 liquor that comes from them, boil with a 
 piece of butter, dusted with flour, a tea- 
 spoonful of soy, two of essence of anchovy, 
 and a little white wine. Serve the sauce in 
 a butter-tureen. This fish is called the sea 
 woodcock, fiom being dressed with the 
 inside. 
 
 RELISH FOR CHOPS, &c. Pound 
 fine an ounce of black pepper, and half an 
 ounce of allspice, with an ounce of salt, and 
 half an ounce of scraped horseradish, and 
 the same of eschalots, peeled and quartered ; 
 put these ingredients into a pint of mushroom 
 15* 
 
 ketchup, or walnut pickle, and let them ste^ 
 for a fortnight, and then strain it. 
 
 Obs. — A tea-spoonful or two of this is 
 generally an acceptable addition, mixed 
 with tlie gravy usually sent up for chops and 
 steaks, or added to thick melted butter. 
 
 REMOULADE, INDIAN. Pound the 
 yolks of ten hard eggs to a paste, dilute it 
 with eight spoonfuls of oil, put in one at a 
 time, and continue pounding all tlie time; 
 then add about a dozen allspice, a tea-spoon- 
 ful of saffron, four or five spoonfuls of vine- 
 gar, salt, and pepper ; amalgamate the whole 
 perfectly, strain it through a bolting-cloth, 
 and serve it in a sauce tureen. This sauce 
 should be rather thick. 
 
 RENNET. (1) As soon as the calf 
 is killed, take out the stomach, and scour it 
 inside and out with salt, after it is cleared 
 of the curd always found in it. Let it drain 
 for a few hours, after which sew it up with 
 two large handfuls of salt in it, or stretch it 
 on a stick well salted; or keep it in the 
 salt, wet, and soak a bit, which will do over 
 and over by fresh water. 
 
 RENNET, (2) Prepare the maw the 
 same as in the above receipt : on the follow- 
 ing day, put a handful of hawthorn-tops, a 
 handful of sweet briar, a handful of rose- 
 leaves, a stick of cinnamon, forty cloves, 
 four blades of mace, a sprig of knotted mar- 
 joram, and two large spoonfuls of salt, into 
 two quarts of fresh spring water; let them 
 boil gently till the water is reduced to three 
 pints, then strain it off, and when only milk 
 warm, pour it on the maw. Slice a lemon, 
 and add to it ; in two days, strain it again, 
 and put into laottles. Aromatic herbs may 
 be put in also ; take care that it is sufficient- 
 ly salt. If the maw be again salted for a 
 few days, and dried as above, it will be 
 quite as fit for use as before ; it should be 
 kept in a cool, dry place, A small quantity 
 of the liquid is sufficient for turning. 
 
 RHUBARB TART. Let the stalks be 
 of a good size, take off the thin skin, and 
 cut them into lengths of four or five inches; 
 lay them in a dish, and put over a thin 
 sirup of sugar and water ; cover with another 
 dish, and let it simmer slowly for an hour 
 upon a hot hearth, or do them in a block- 
 tin saucepan. As soon as cold, make it 
 into a tart ; when tender, the baking the 
 crust will be sufficient; or you may cut the 
 stalks into little bits, the size of gooseberries, 
 and make your tart the same as goosebory 
 tart. 
 
 RICE BLANCMANGE. Put a tea. 
 cupful of whole rice into the lea^t water 
 
RICE 
 
 174 
 
 RICE 
 
 possible, till it almost bursts ; then add half 
 a pint of good milk or thin cream, and boil 
 it till it is quite a mash, stirring it the whole 
 time it is on the fire, that it may not burn ; 
 dip a shape in cold water, and do not diy 
 it; put in the rice, and let it stand until 
 quite cold, when it will come easily out of 
 the shape. This dish is much approved of; 
 it is eaten Avith cream or custard, and pre- 
 served fiuits ; raspberries are best. It should 
 be made the day before it is wanted, that it 
 may get firm. This blancmange will eat 
 much nicer, flavored with spices, lemon-peel, 
 &c., and sweetened with a little loaf sugar, 
 add it with the milk, and take out the lemon- 
 peel before you put in tlie mould. 
 
 RICE, TO BOIL. Wash the rice jier- 
 fectly clean, and put on one pound in two 
 quarts of cold water; let it boil twenty min- 
 utes, strain it through a sieve, and put it be- 
 fore the fire; shake it up with a fork every 
 now and then, to separate the grains, and 
 make it quite di-y. Serve it hot. 
 
 RICE CASSEROLE. Take a pound 
 and a half of rice, wash it thoroughly in 
 geveral waters (warm), and then put it 
 into a saucepan, at least eight inches in 
 diameter; moisten it with stock, in this pro- 
 portion ; if tlie rice lies an inch thick, let 
 the stock come two inches above it, and 
 four ladlefuls of fowl skimmings ; place the 
 saucepan on a hot stove; when the rice 
 boils, set it on the side, and skim it; tiien 
 put it on hot ashes, cover, and let it boil 
 slowly for fifteen to twenty minutes; stir it, 
 let it boil as before; in twenty or twenty- 
 five minutes, stir it again ; if by this time 
 tlie rice is perfectly soft, take it off, but if 
 not, add a little more liquid, and continue 
 Iwiling until it is so; place tlie saucepan 
 aslant on the side of the stove that the fat 
 may drain away and be taken off easily. 
 As soon as the rice is lukewarm, work it 
 into a firm, smooth, paste, with a spatula; 
 it can hardly be worked up too much, as 
 evei-y grain of rice ought to pass under pres- 
 sure (if necepsaiy, add more stock, a very 
 little at a time). When the paste is thus 
 thoroiighly worked up, form your casserole 
 of it, first laying it in a heap, four or five 
 inches high, and seven in diameter; do it 
 with the hand as you would a raised crust; 
 make the ornaments of the outer surface with 
 the point of a knife, or by carrots cut for 
 the purpose, taking care that the decorations 
 be detached fiom the mass of rice, at least 
 sn inch; attention to this particular will 
 not only add to tlie beauty of the form, but 
 t« the cf»lor also, as the raised parts will be 
 lightly colored, while the groimd will he 
 quite white. When properly formed, mask 
 the whole surface with clarified butter, and 
 
 place it in a hot oven for an hour and a half, 
 by which time it M'ill be of a fine clear yel- 
 low. Take off the top of your casserole, 
 clear away all the rice from the inside that 
 does not adhere to the crust (which ought to 
 be very thin), and mix it with bechameMe, 
 espagnole, or whatever other sauce mav be 
 proper, put it in again, and then fill your 
 casserole, with such ragouts as your fancy 
 may dictate; glaze the surface of the outer 
 ornaments, and serve it. Water, with but- 
 ter and salt, is frequently thought prefeiable 
 to the stock, &c., as the rice is thereby 
 rendered much whiter. 
 
 RICE CASSOLETTES. The rice 
 prepared as above may be put into smaller 
 moulds, those called dariole moulds, and 
 it should be quite cold before it is turned out, 
 the mince or whatever is put inside being 
 also cold ; it must be put in carefiiUy, that 
 none of it may mix with the rice, otherwise 
 the cassolettes would break in the process 
 of frying; for the same reason, the dripping 
 must be very hot. Fi-jing is the best and 
 quickest method of doing them, but they may 
 also be browned in the oven as the casserole 
 of rice. 
 
 RICE CHEESE. Boil an ounce of 
 rice, thick as hasty pudding, in rather less 
 than half a pint of milk (new) ; pour it hot 
 on an ounce and a half of butter, the same 
 weight of sugar, mixing it Avell together; let 
 it stand till cold; then add one egg, and the 
 yolk of another, and a little white wine. 
 
 RICE CREAM. Mix some rice flour 
 with half a glass of cold milk ; then by de- 
 grees, add a pint more, also cold, and put 
 it with a bay-leaf into a saucepan, set it on 
 a slow fire for an hour and a half, then strain 
 and flavor it with orange-flower water, 
 sweeten to your taste, and serve it hot. It 
 should be stirred fre(juently whilst boiling; 
 eggs may be added if you think proper. 
 
 RICE CROQUETTES. Wash and 
 scald a quarter of a pound of rice, put it 
 into a saucepan, with the rind of a lemon, 
 shred small, a quarter of a pound of powder- 
 sugar, a pinch of salt, a little crisjied orange- 
 flowers, an ounce of butter, and half a pint 
 of milk; set these on the fire, and when the 
 rice is quite soft, add the yolks of four eggs, 
 stir them in over the fii-e, but do not let them 
 boil ; pour the preparation on a large tin or 
 slab, spread it equally; let it cool, and then 
 I divide it into small equal parts; roll these 
 I into balls, dip them into an omelet, roll 
 I them in bread-crumbs, and fry them in a 
 i very hot pan. As soon as the cn)f|uettes 
 ! are" of a nice color, drain, sprinkle them 
 I with powder-sugar, and serve them. 
 
RICE 
 
 175 
 
 RICE 
 
 RICE CUPS. Sweeten a pint of milk 
 with pounded loaf sugar, and boil it with a 
 stick of cinnamon; stir in sifted ground 
 rice till thick ; take it off the fire, and add 
 the well-teaten whites of three eggs ; stir it 
 again over the fire for two or three minutes, 
 Uien put it into tea-cups previously dipped in 
 cold water ; turn tliem out when cold, and 
 pour round them a custard cream made with 
 tlie yolks of the eggs ; place upon the rice a 
 little red currant jelly or raspberry jam. 
 This dish may be served warm or cold ; if 
 cold, raspberry cream or custard may be 
 pom-ed round it. 
 
 RICE CUSTARDS WITHOUT 
 CREAM. One tea-spoonful of rice-flour, 
 a pint of new milk, the yolks of three eggs, 
 a table-spoonful of ratafia (or two or three 
 laurel leaves boiled in), sugar to your taste; 
 mix the rice very smooth, and stir it with 
 the eggs into the boiling milk, until thick. 
 Arrow-root is better than rice. 
 
 RICE FLUMMERY. (1) Boil a pint of 
 new milk, with a bit of lemon-peel and cin- 
 namon: then mix just sufficient rice-flour, 
 with a little cold milk as will make the 
 whole of a good consistence, sweeten ac- 
 cording to taste, flavor with a little pound- 
 ed bitter almond ; boil it, taking care not to 
 let it burn ; pour it into a shape or pint ba- 
 sin, taking out the spice. When the flum- 
 mery is cold, turn it into a dish, and serve 
 with cream, milk, or custard, all round, or 
 seiTe with sweet sauce in a boat. 
 
 RICE FLUMMERY. (2) Boil in a quart 
 of milk five ounces of sifted ground rice, half 
 an ounce of bitter almonds, blanched and 
 pounded with two table-spoonfuls of rose- 
 water; sweeten, and stir it till very thick, 
 so that the bottom of the saucepan is seen, 
 and then put it into a mould; when quite 
 cold turn it out, stick over it sweet almonds, 
 cut into straws, and pour round it some thick 
 cream, and a little white wine and sugar 
 mixed with it. 
 
 RICE FRITTERS. Boil the rice in 
 milk with some powder-sugar, orange-flower 
 water, a pinch of cinnamon |)o\vder, and a 
 little butter; when (jiiite soft put to it a 
 liaison of yolks of eggi?, pour it into a pan 
 to cool. Make your preparation into balls, 
 about the size of an egg, dip them in egg, 
 fry them, sprinkle them with sugar, and 
 serve. 
 
 RICE, GATEAU OF. Boil a quart 
 of cream, add to it half a pound of powder- 
 sugar, and three-quarters of a pound of 
 rice; when tlie latter is (|uite soft, dissolve 
 in it a quarter of a pound of butter, and 
 
 then put in the grated rind of a lemon, let 
 it cool. When quite cold, stir in four yolka 
 and four whole eggs, more if the rice be 
 veiy thick ; butter a mould lightly, put the 
 rice into it, place the mould in hot ashes, so 
 that it mav be completely enveloped in and 
 covered with them ; in half an hour the ga- 
 teau will be done enough ; then turn it out, 
 and serve. If you wish, you can make a 
 souffle, by whipping the whites of six eggs; 
 like other souffles, m this case it should be 
 served in a silver dish. In putting the 
 preparation into the mould, be careful not 
 to fill it, as the rice would swell and run 
 over tlie edge. 
 
 RICE MILK. Allow an ounce of rice 
 for each person, wash it thoroughly in warm 
 water ; set some milk on the fire, and when 
 it boils, put in the rice ; continue to boil it 
 over a slow fire, stirring often for two or 
 three hours; add salt or sugar according 
 to taste, and cinnamon. 
 
 RICE AND MILK. To every quart 
 of good milk allow two ounces of rice; 
 wash it well in several waters ; pui.dt with 
 the milk into a closely-covered s^cepan, 
 and set it over a slow fire; when it boils 
 take it off; let it stand till it be cold, and 
 simmer it about an hour and a quarter be- 
 fore sending it to table; and serve it in 
 a tureen. 
 
 RICE PANCAKES. Boil half a pound 
 of rice in a small quantity of water, until 
 quite a jelly; as soon as it is cold, mix it 
 with a pint of cream, eight eggs, a little 
 salt and nutmeg; make eight ounces of 
 butter just warm, and stir in with the rest, 
 adding to the whole as much butter as will 
 make ihe batter thick enough. They must 
 be fried in as small a quantity of lard aa 
 possible. 
 
 RICE PASTE. Rub three ounces of 
 butter well, into half a pound of ground 
 lice, moisten it with water, and roll it out 
 with a little flour. 
 
 RICE, PYRAMIDS OF. Boilsome 
 whole rice, make it up into the form of pyr- 
 amids about three inches high, or press it 
 into small tin frames of that shape; take 
 out part of the rice at the bottom, and fill tlie 
 sjjace widi sausage, or rich forcemeat ; place 
 them in a dish, take oft" the frame, and pour 
 round them some rich brown gravy. 
 
 RICE SAVOURY. Carefiilly wasli 
 and pick some rice; set it to stew very 
 gently in a little veal or rich mutton broth, 
 add an onion, a blade of inace, pepper, and 
 salt. When it is swelled it should not be 
 
RIS 
 
 176 
 
 ROLLS 
 
 boiled to mash ; put it to diy on tlie shallovv 
 end of a sieve before tlie fire. You may 
 serve it dry, or put it in die middle of a 
 dish, and pour the gravy round, having first 
 heated it. 
 
 RICE SNOW BALLS. Wash and 
 pick half a pound of rice very clean, put it 
 on in a saucepan widi plenty of water ; when 
 it boils let it boil ten minutes, drain it on 
 a sieve till it is quite dry, and dien pare six 
 apples, weighing two ounces and a half each. 
 Divide the rice into six parcels, in separate 
 cloths, put one apple in each, tie it loose, 
 and boil it one hour; ser\e it wiUi sugai- 
 and butter, or wine sauce. 
 
 RICE SOUP. (1) Carefully blanch 
 some well picked rice, then drain it on a 
 sieve ; put about a tea-cupful in the soup-pot, 
 with one head of celery, and a quart of 
 consomme, and let it simmer by the side 
 of the stove for three hours. If it thickens 
 too much add more consomme, season with 
 a little salt ; take out the celery, and send 
 the soup to table, 
 fit 
 
 Rltui: SOUP. (2) Wash your rice 
 well in warm water, changing it frequently ; 
 then put the rice into a saucepan, with 
 some good stock; set it on the fire, and 
 leave it to swell for half an hour, but do 
 not let it boil ; Avhen the rice has imbibed 
 all the stock, add a sufficient quantity to 
 cover the rice, cover, and boil it slowly for 
 two hours; in the meantime broil two or 
 three slices of beef, and pep|)er and salt them 
 well; when of a nice dark color, throw 
 them into the rice soup, to which tiiey will 
 impai-t a rich flavor and a fine color. 
 
 RICE, WHOLE IN A SHAPE. 
 Wash a lai'ge tea-cupful of rice in several 
 waters, put it into a saucepan with cold 
 water to cover it, and when it boils, add 
 two cupfuls of rich milk, and boil it till it 
 becomes dry; put it into a shape, and press 
 it in well. When cold, turn it out, and 
 serve with preserved black currants, rasp- 
 berries, or any sort of fruit round it. 
 
 RISSOLES. (1) Cutpuffpastewitha 
 round tin cutter, about three inches wide; 
 have ready some cold fowl or veal, Aery 
 finely minced, and seasoned with a little 
 pounded garlic, grated lemon-peel, pepper, 
 salt, and mace, the juice of half a lemon, 
 and moistened with a little good gravy. 
 Put some of the mince upon a bit of the 
 paste, wet the edges, and lay over it anoth- 
 er bit ; press it gently round the rim ; brush 
 them all over with a \\ell-l)eaten eg^, and 
 strew over them sifted bread crumbs; fry 
 them a light brown in boiling clarified beef 
 
 dripping, and lay them upon the back of a 
 sieve before the fire to drain. Ser^'e them 
 in a napkin. The paste may be cut of the 
 size of a large breakfast plate, then the 
 mince put into the middle of it, the edges 
 wet all round, and gathered up into the 
 form of a pear, brushed over with egg, and 
 strewed over with bread crumbs. Served 
 in a dish garnished with firied parsley. 
 
 RISSOLES. (2) Mince very finely some 
 cold roasted veal, and a small bit of bacon; 
 season it with grated nutmeg and salt; 
 moisten it with cream, and make it up into 
 good-sized balls; dip them into the yolks 
 of eggs beaten up, and then into finely -grat- 
 ed bread. Bake them in an oven, or fry 
 them of a light brown color in fresh drip- 
 ping. Before serving, drain them before 
 the fire on the back of a sieve. Garnish 
 with fried parsley. 
 
 ROLLS. (1) Dissolve two ounces of but- 
 ter in one pint of new milk, and stir it into 
 four pounds of flour, as also three table-spoon- 
 fuls of yeast, a tea-spoonful of salt, and the 
 well-bealen whites of two eggs ; cover the 
 pan with a warmed towel, and set it before 
 the fire to rise for half an hour, then work it 
 one way for fifteen minutes; form it into 
 rolls, place them upon tins, and let them 
 lise foi- ten minutes before putting them into 
 the oven. 
 
 ROLLS. (2) Warm an ounce of butter in 
 half a pint of milk, then add a spoonful and 
 a half of yeast of small beer, and a little salt. 
 Put two pounds of flour into a pan, and put 
 in the above. Set it to rise for an hour; 
 knead it well ; make it into seven rolls, and 
 bake them in a quick oven. 
 
 ROLLS, FRENCH. (1) Mix rather more 
 than an ounce of coarse salt with eight 
 pounds of sifted flour; make a hole in the 
 middle, and pour in about half a pint of 
 good yeast, the well-l)eaten whites of four 
 eggs, and as much new milk warmed as 
 will mix it to a middling stifl'ness; clap 
 and work it down one way for hall' an hour, 
 but do not knead it; cover it with a warm- 
 ed towel, and let it rise l^efore the fire for 
 half an houi-; take off the surface, which 
 soon becomes hard, and put it aside to be 
 made into a roll; work and clap the dough, 
 form it into rolls, place diem ujion tins, and 
 let them rise for ten minutes; bake them 
 in a quick oven. 
 
 ROLLS, FRENCH. (2) Rub one ounce 
 of butter into a pound of flour; then add to it 
 one egg beaten, a little yeast that is not bit- 
 tor, and a siitficient quantity of milk, to make 
 a dough of moderate stifiiiess. Beat it well, 
 
ROS 
 
 177 
 
 SAG 
 
 but do not knead it ; let it rise, and bake on 
 tins. 
 
 ROLLS, FRENCH. (3) Warm three 
 spoonfuls of milk, and the same quantity of 
 water, with a bit of butter the size of a wal- 
 nut, put it to two spoonfuls of thick yeast; 
 put this into the middle of rather more than 
 a quart of flour, mix the whole together to 
 the consistence of a batter-pudding, adding 
 more flour if necessary, to make it the proper 
 thickness; sti'ew a little flour over it from 
 the sides, and if the weather is cold, set it at 
 a little distance from the fire ; do this three 
 hours before it is put into the oven ; when it 
 breaks a good deal through the flour and ris- 
 es, work it into a light paste with more warm 
 milk and water; let it lie till within a quar- 
 ter of an hour of setting into the oven, then 
 work them lightly into rolls; flour a tin, and 
 drop them on, handle them as little as possi- 
 ble ; set them before tlie fire- About twenty 
 minutes will be sufficient time to bake them; 
 put a little salt into the flour. Rasp the 
 rolls. 
 
 ROLLS, SHORT, HOT. Dry before 
 the fire a sufficient quantity of flour to make 
 three penny-rolls, or larger if you like; add 
 to it an egg well beaten, a little salt, two 
 spoonfuls of yeast, and a little warm milk; 
 make it into a light dough, let it stand by 
 tlie fii"e all night. Bake the rolls in a quick 
 oven. 
 
 ROSE-WATER, double-distilled. 
 The rose generally chosen for this purpose, 
 is the common pale (single or double) rose, 
 but the white rose is best of all. Gather the 
 flowers in fine weather, two hours after sun- 
 rise; take out the calix, and separate the 
 leaves, pound them in a marble moriar to a 
 paste, and leave them five or six hours in the 
 mortar; then put them into a large close 
 cloth, and let two persons wring it with all 
 their strength. Having by this operation ob- 
 tained four pounds of juice, infuse in it an 
 efjual weight of fresh rose-leaves for twenty- 
 four hours; at the end of that time put the 
 whole into the alembic, which place in a 
 sand-badi, and distil it according to rule. 
 (See Distilling). When you have collect- 
 ed abnit an ounce of the water, unlute the 
 receiver, and if that which issues from the 
 etill is as odoriferous as that which proceeded 
 first, continue the operation ; but if not, col- 
 lect it into another vessel, as tins second 
 water is only single, and must be kept sepa- 
 rate from the first, which is the Essential 
 Water. Should the second water have an 
 unpleasant smell (caused by the application 
 of too much heat), expose it to the sun for 
 a few days, covered only by a sheet of paper. 
 The utmost care is necessary in distilling this 
 
 and all other odoriferous substances. A still 
 more powerful essence than the above may be 
 procured by the following method: — Gather 
 as many roses as will afford thirty pounds of 
 leaves, pound these with four pounds of salt; 
 when pounded, place the paste in a vessel in 
 layers with salt between each, press them 
 closely, cork them tight, leave the vessel 
 twelve days, and tlien distil as usual. 
 
 ROSE-WATER, SINGLE. Put four 
 pounds of rose-leaves into a pan, with three 
 quarts of river water, and leave it four-and- 
 tvventy hours ; then put it into a metal alem- 
 bic, and distil from it as much odoriferous 
 water as you can, being sure to stop the mo- 
 ment you observe the phlegm. Take off 
 the alembic, throw away its contents, and 
 rinse it out well ; after this, fill it to two- 
 thirds with fresh-gathered rose-leaves, on 
 which pour die above drawn rose-water; 
 distil this, and when you have procured as 
 much good rose-water as it will yield, let the 
 fire go out gradually. 
 
 ROUX.' Put a pound of butter into a 
 saucepan, shake it about till dissolved, when 
 add a sufficient quantity of sifted flour, to 
 make it the consistence of thick houilli; 
 then set it over a fierce stove, and stir it un- 
 til it begins to take color, when make a good 
 fire of cinders, place the roux on it, and let 
 it stand to increase in color ; it ought to be 
 of a clear light brown. Set it by, and iKe it 
 as occasion may require. 
 
 ROUX, WHITE. Prepare your butter 
 and flour as above, place it on a moderately 
 lieated stove, stirring it constantly till veiy 
 hot ; be careful that it does not take color at 
 all, for the whiter it is the more desirable. 
 
 RUSKS. To three pounds and a half 
 of flour allow half a pound of butter, the 
 same (]uantity of pounded loaf sugar, and 
 five spoonfuls of yeast; mix the flour and 
 sugar togetiier; melt the butter in two pints 
 and a half of milk, and mix it with the flour, 
 tlien add the yeast and one beaten egg; 
 woik it well together; cover it, and let it 
 stand for five or six hours ; take it out of 
 the pan, and form it into little rolls; place 
 them upon tins, and let them rise for about 
 »n hour; bake them in a quick oven, and 
 when diey become brown, cut them dirough 
 the middle or into three slices; put them 
 again into the oven to brown and crisp. 
 
 SAGE GARGLE. Boil quickly in a 
 pint of water, a large handful of sage leaves ; 
 
SAL 
 
 178 
 
 SAL 
 
 cover the pan closely, and when reduced to 
 one-half, sti-ain it ; when cold, mix it with 
 tlie same quantity of Port wine and of vine- 
 gar ; sweeten it witli honey, or with brown 
 sugai'. The decoction of sage may lie used 
 alone cis a gargle, or witli vinegar and hon- 
 ey, without die Port wine; or gargle widi 
 vmegar and water. 
 
 SAGO. Let it soak for an hour in cold 
 water, to take off the earthy taste; pour 
 tliat off, and wash it well ; then add more 
 water, and simmer gently until the berries 
 are clear, with lemon-peel and spice. Add 
 wine and sugar according to taste, and boil 
 all up togetlier. 
 
 SAGO MILK. When well cleansed, 
 boil it slowly with new milk, A small 
 quantity will be sufficient for a quart of milk, 
 it swells so much, and when done, it should 
 be reduced to about a pint. It requires 
 neither sugar nor flavoring. 
 
 SALAD MIXTURE. Endeavor to have 
 your salad herbs as fresh as possible ; if you 
 suspect tliey are not " morning gatliered," 
 they will be much refreshed by lying an hour 
 or two in spring water; then carefully wash 
 and pick them, and trim off all the worm- 
 eaten, slimy, cankered, diy leaves; and, 
 after washing, let them remain awhile in 
 the colander to drain: lastly, swing them 
 gently in a clean napkin: when properly 
 picked and cut, arrange them in the salad 
 dish, mix the sauce in a soup-plate, and put 
 it into an ingredient bottle, or pour it down 
 the side of the salad dish, and don't stir it 
 up till tlie mouths are ready for it. 
 
 If the herbs be young, fresh gathered, trim- 
 med neatly, and drained dry, and the sauce- 
 maker lenders patiently over the following 
 directions, he cannot fail obtaining the fome 
 of being a very accomplished salad-dresser. 
 
 Boil a couple of eggs for twelve minutes, 
 and put them in a basin of cold water for a 
 few minutes; the yolks must be quite cold 
 and hard, or tliey will not incorporate with 
 tlie ingredients. Rub them tlirough a sieve 
 with a wooden spoon, and mix them with a 
 table-spoonful of water, or fine double cream ; 
 then add two table-spoonfiils of oil or melted 
 butter; when these are well mixed, add, by 
 degrees, a tea-spoonful of salt, or powdered 
 lump sugar, and the same of made mustard : 
 when these are smoothly united, add very 
 gradually three table-spoonfuls of vinegar; 
 rub it with the other ingredients till thor- 
 oughly incorporated with them; cut up the 
 white of the egg, and garnish the top of the 
 ealad with it. Let die sauce remain at the 
 bottom of the bowl, and do not stir up the 
 salad till it is to be eaten: we recommend 
 the euters to be mindful of the duty of masti- 
 
 cation, without the due performance of 
 which, all undressed vegetables are trouble- 
 some company for the principal viscera, and 
 some sure even dangerously indigestible. 
 
 SALAD, WINTER. Wash very clean 
 one or two heads of endive, some heads of 
 celery, some mustard and cresses ; cut them 
 all small, add a little shredded red cabbage, 
 some»slices of boiled lieet-root, an onion, if 
 the flavor is not disliked ; mix them together 
 with salad sauce. In spring, add radishes, 
 and also garnish tiie dish with them. 
 
 SALINE DRAUGHT. Salt of worm- 
 wood, twenty grains ; lemon-juice, a table- 
 spoonful; water, two table-spoonfuls; mag- 
 nesia, twenty grains ; mix it in a tumbler, 
 together wiUi a little pounded sugar, and take 
 two or tluee of these in tlie day. 
 
 SALLY LUNNS. Take tluee, quarts 
 of dried flour, half a cupful of yeast, a quar- 
 ter of a pound of butter, melted in a sufficient 
 quantity of milk to dissolve it, the yolks of 
 three eggs, and a little salt: make tliese in- 
 gredients into a light dough, let it stand be- 
 fore the fire (covered), for an hour to rise, 
 and bake in a quick oven. The above may 
 be made into small cakes. 
 
 SALMON. When salmon is fresh and 
 good, die gills and flesh are of a bright red, 
 the scales clear, and the whole fish is stiff. 
 When just killed, there is a whiteness be- 
 tween the flakes, which gives gi'eat firnmess ; 
 by keeping, this melts down, and the fish 
 becomes richer. 
 
 SALMON, BAKED. Clean and cut 
 the fish into slices, put it in a dish, and make 
 tlie following sauce: — Melt an ounce of but- 
 ter, kneaded in flour, in a pint and a half 
 of gravy, with two glasses of Port wine, two 
 table-spoonfuls of ketchup, two anchovies, 
 and a little cayenne. Wlien the anchovies 
 are dissolved, strain and pour tlie sauce over 
 the fish, tie a sheet of buttered paper over 
 the dish, and send it to the oven. 
 
 SALMON, BOILED. Put on a fish- 
 ketde, with spring water enough to well 
 cover the salmon you are going to dress, or 
 the salmon will neidier look nor taste well: 
 (boil the liver in a separate saucepan). 
 When the water boils, put in a handful of 
 salt; take off the scum as soon as it rises; 
 have the fish well washed ; put it in, and if 
 it is thick, let it boil veiy gently. Sahnon 
 requires almost as much boiling as meat; 
 about a quarter of an hour to a ix)und of 
 fish: but practice only can perfect Uie cook 
 in dressing salmon. A quarter of a salmon 
 will take almost as long boiling as half a 
 
SAL 
 
 179 
 
 SAL 
 
 one: you must consider the thickness, not the 
 weight: ten pounds of fine full-grown salmon 
 . will be done in an hour and a quarter. Lob- 
 .«ter Sauce. 
 
 Obs. — The thinnest part of the fish is 
 the fattest ; and if you have a " grand gour- 
 mand" at table, ask him if he is for thick 
 or thin. 
 
 N. B. — If you have any left, put it into 
 a pie-dish, and cover it witli an equal por- 
 tion of vinegar and pump water, and a little 
 salt: it will be ready in three days. 
 
 SALMON, BOILED IN WINE. Sea- 
 son with pepper and salt, some slices of ba- 
 con, fat and lean together, a pound of veal 
 cut tliin, and a pound and a half of beef; put 
 these into a deep stewpan, then a fine piece 
 of fresh salmon cut out of the middle, then 
 pour in just as much water as will cover it, 
 and let it simmer over a gentle fire till the 
 sahnon is almost done, then pour the water 
 away, and put in two quarts of white wine, 
 with an onion cut in slices, some thyme, and 
 sweet marjoram, picked from the stalks ; let 
 them stew gently, and while they are doing, 
 cut a sweetbread into thin slices, then cut the 
 slices across, and stew them in a saucepan, 
 with some rich gravy ; when they are done 
 enough, add a quarter of a pint of essence 
 of ham ; take up the salmon, lay it on a dish, 
 and serve with tlie sweetbread, and its sauce 
 poured over. 
 
 SALMON, BOILED, Berw^ick re- 
 ceipt. The tail of the salmon is first cut 
 off near and below the last fin, the fish is 
 tlien cut up the back, keeping the bone on 
 one side, and then cut up into pieces of half 
 a pound each, the blood well washed out of 
 the fish in cold water, but the scales not to be 
 removed ; a pickle to be made of salt and 
 water, strong enough to bear an egg, and, 
 when boiling, the fish to be put in, and boil- 
 ed very quickly for fifteen minutes. During 
 the boiling, the scum to be taken off carefully 
 as soon as it rises. Sauces; — lobster, melt- 
 ed butter, and anchovy sauce. 
 
 N. B. — The hardest \vater is preferable 
 for boiling salmon. 
 
 SALMON, BOILED, receipt by an 
 Aberdeen FISHERMAN. When the wa- 
 ter is hot, put salt into it, and stir it well ; 
 taste it ; when strong enough to force you to 
 cast it from your mouth, it will do; when 
 the water boils put in the fish; when it boils 
 again, give twenty minutes for a salmon, and 
 sixteen for a gristle. When salmon is cut 
 in slices an inch thick, let them boil ten 
 minutes. Serve with it a sauce tureen of 
 the liquor the fish was boiled in. 
 
 SALMON STEAKS BROILED. Cut 
 
 the steaks from the thickest parts of the fish 
 nearly an inch thick; butter pieces of white 
 paper; fold the steaks in diem, and broil 
 them over a slow fire for ten or twelve minutes. 
 Take off the paper; serve and garnish with 
 plenty of fried parsley. Dressed in this 
 way, they may be put round salmon boiled, 
 in slices. Sauces; — melted butter, lobster, 
 or slu-imp sauce. 
 
 SALMON, FRESH BROILED. Clean 
 the salmon well, and cut it into slices about 
 an inch and a half thick ; dry it thoroughly 
 in a clean cloth ; rub it over with sweet oil, 
 or thick melted butter, and sprinkle a little 
 salt over it: put your gridiron over a clear 
 fire, at some distance; when it is hot, wipe 
 it clean ; rub it with sweet oil or lard ; lay 
 the salmon on, and when it is done on one 
 side, turn it gently and broil the other. An- 
 chovy sauce, &c. 
 
 Obs. — An oven does them best. 
 
 SALMON CAVEACH. Boil in two 
 quarts of vinegar three heads of shallots, half 
 an ounce of whole black pepper, three cloves, 
 two blades of mace, and a little salt. Fry 
 the fish, cut in slices, of a light brown color 
 in fine oil, or clarified dripping; put them, 
 when cold, into a pan, pour over tlie vinegar 
 and spices, and put on the top eight or ten 
 spoonfuls of oil. Soles may be done in this 
 way, only lay over tliem sliced onions instead 
 of shallots. 
 
 SALMON, DRIED KIPPER. Cut the 
 
 fish up the back, and take out the bone ; wipe 
 it veiy clean with a cloth ; score it, and put a 
 handful of salt on each side, and let it lie 
 for three days; then hang it up to dry, and 
 it will be fit for use in two days, and eats 
 well with a little pepper put over it, and 
 broiled. 
 
 SALMON, DRIED, TO DRESS. Lay 
 
 it in soak for two or three hours, then broil 
 it, shaking a little pepper over it. Dried 
 salmon is eaten broiled in paper, and only 
 just warmed through ; egg sauce and mashed 
 potatoes are usually served with it; or it 
 may l)e boiled, especially the bit next the 
 
 SALMON, PICKLED. (1) Cut a 
 
 salmon into two or three pieces, put it in 
 a fish-kettle, and set it on the fire with a 
 sufficient quantity of water to cover it, and 
 plenty of salt ; as soon as it begins to boil, 
 set it aside to simmer very gently until done ; 
 then take it off the fire, and let it stand in 
 the liquor until cold, take it out, lay the 
 pieces close together in a tub to pickle, and 
 over them five anchovies, a small quantity 
 of pounded saltpetre, and a quarter of a 
 
SAL 
 
 180 
 
 SAL 
 
 pint of sweet oil ; being thus prepared, put 
 the top of the salmon liquor into a stewpan, 
 to which add the same quantity of white 
 wine vinegar; put it on the fire to skim, 
 and boil it for two or three minutes ; take it 
 off, and let it cool. When cold, pour it 
 over the salmon and tie it down ; in three 
 days turn it, and in a week's time it will 
 be fit for use ; this is merely in a small way ; 
 a great quantity being done at once, recjuires 
 neither oil nor anchovies. Serve garnished 
 with fennel. 
 
 SALMON, PICKLED. (2) Cut the sal- 
 mon into pieces ; boil it as for eating, and lay 
 it on a dry cloth till the following day ; boil 
 two quarts of good vinegar with one of the li- 
 quor the fish was boiled in, one ounce of whole 
 black pepper, half an ounce of allspice, and 
 four blades of mace. Put the salmon into 
 something deep, and pour over it the prepar- 
 ed vinegar when cold. A little sweet oil 
 put upon die top will make it keep a twelve- 
 month. 
 
 SALMON, PICKLED. (3) To a quart 
 of liquor the fish has teen boiled in, put rath- 
 er more than half a pint of good vinegar, and 
 half an ounce of whole black pepper; boil 
 it, and when it is cold pour it o\'er the fish, 
 previously laid in a deep dish. 
 
 SALM9N, PICKLED, TO DRESS. 
 
 Soak a piece of pickled salmon all night 
 in pump-water ; then lay it on a fish-plate, 
 and put it in a stewpan, with three spoon- 
 fuls of vinegar, a little mace, some whole 
 pepper in a bit of muslin, an onion, a nut- 
 meg bruised, a pint of white wine, a buncli 
 of sweet herbs, some parsley, lemon-peel, 
 and a quarter of a pound of butter rolled in 
 flour ; cover the stew|)aii very close, and let 
 it simmer over a gentle fire for a cjuarter of 
 an hour; then take up the salmon, lay it in 
 a dish, keep it hot Ijefore the fiie; let the 
 sauce boil till it is of a proper consistence ; 
 take out the spice, onion, and sweet herbs, 
 and serve tlie sauce over the fish. 
 
 SALMON, POTTED. Take off the 
 head; cut the salmon in thick slices; wipe it 
 di"y, but do not wash it ; pound half an ounce of 
 nutmeg, mace, and cloves, the least part of 
 cloves, half an ounce of white pepper, and 
 some salt; chop fine one onion, six bay- 
 leaves, and six anchovies ; season ea<^h slice ; 
 put it into a pan, wiUi veiy thin slices of 
 butter between each layer; bake it, when 
 well done ; drain off the butter, and, when 
 cold, pour over some clarified butter. 
 
 SALMON, TO SALT. Cut the fish up 
 the back, and cut out the bone ; wipe it 
 clean, and sprinkle it widi salt; let it lay a 
 
 night to drain off the liquor; wipe it dry; 
 rub on it two or three ounces of pounded 
 saltpetre; cut it into pieces; pack it close in 
 a pot with a thick layer of salt between each 
 layer of fish. If the brine does not rise in 
 a few days, boil a strong one, and pour it, 
 when cold, upon the salmon, which must 
 always be covered with it. 
 
 SALMON, STEW. Clean and scrape 
 the fish ; cut it into slices, and stew it in a 
 rich white gravy. A little before serving, 
 add two table-spoonfuls of soy, one of es- 
 sence of anchovy, and a little salt, some 
 chopped parsley and chi\es. 
 
 SALMON, SPICED. Mix togedier, in 
 the proportion of one third of salt-and-water to 
 one pint of vinegar, one ounce of whole black 
 pepper, and one ounce of cinnamon. Cut 
 the salmon into slices, and boil it in this; 
 when cold, pack it close in a pan, and pom* 
 over it the liquor it was boiled in, with the 
 spices, so as to cover it completely; cover 
 the pan closely, to exclude tlie air. 
 
 SALMON, MACKEREL, SPRATS, 
 HERRINGS, &c. picklkd. Cut the fish 
 into proper pieces ; do not take off the scales ; 
 make a bi"ine strong enough to tear an egg, 
 in which boil the fish; it must be boiled in 
 only just liquor enough to cover it ; do not 
 oveiboil it. When the fisii is boiled, lay it 
 slantingly to drain off all the liquor; when 
 cold, pack it close in the kits, and fill them 
 up with equal parts of the liquor the salmon 
 was boiled in (having first well skimmed it), 
 and test vinegar ; let them rest for a day ; 
 fill up again, striking the sides of the kit with 
 a coof)er's adz, until the kit will receive no 
 more; then head them down as close as pos- 
 sible. 
 
 Obs. — This is in the finest condition 
 when fresh. Some sjirigs of fresh-gathered 
 young fennel are the accompaniments. 
 
 N. B. — The diree indispensable marks 
 of the goodness of pickled salmon are, 1st, 
 The brightness of the scales, and their stick- 
 ing fast to the skin; 2dly, The firmness of 
 the flesh ; and, 3dly, lis fine, pale-red rose 
 color. Without these it is not fit to eat, 
 and was either stale tefore it was pickled, 
 or has teen kept too long after. 
 
 The above was given us as the actual 
 practice of those who pickle it for the Lon- 
 don market. 
 
 N. B. — Pickled salmon warmed by steam, 
 or in its pickle liquor, is a favorite dish at 
 Newcastle. 
 
 SALOOP. Boil a little water, wine, 
 lemon-peel, and sugar, togetter; then mix 
 with a small quantity of Uie powder, pre- 
 viously rubted smooth, in a little cold water; 
 
SAL 
 
 181 
 
 SAN 
 
 stir the whole well together, and boil for a 
 few minutes. 
 
 SALPICON. Tills is a mixture compo- 
 sed of various articles, such as sweetbreads, 
 fat livers, tongue, ham, champignons, truf- 
 fles, &c., previously dressed, cut into dice, 
 and cooked in some rich sauce, and seasoned 
 witli pepper, salt, nutmeg, cloves, shallots, 
 Bweet herbs, and a litde butter ; take care 
 tliat all the articles are sufficiently boiled be- 
 fore they are cut up. Many things, such as 
 beef-palate, fowl, cocks'-combs, indeed al- 
 most any article you please, may be added to 
 the above. 
 
 SALT, Is as Plutarch calls it, sauce 
 for sauce. 
 
 Common salt is more relishing than bas- 
 ket salt ; it should be prepared for die table 
 by drying it in a Dutch oven before the fire; 
 then put it on a clean paper, and roll it with 
 a rolling pin ; if you pound it in a mortar 
 till it is quite fine, it will look as well as 
 basket salt. 
 
 *^* Select for table-use the lumps of 
 salt. 
 
 Obs. — Your salt-box must have a close 
 cover, and be kept in a dry place. 
 
 SALT, SPICED. Take four drachms 
 of grated nutmeg, the same of cloves, two 
 of white pef>}Ter, two of allspice, two of I 
 mace, two of bay-leaf, two of basil, and j 
 two of thyme (these three latter articles i 
 should be dried in an oven). Put these all j 
 into a mortar, and jwund them to an iin[)al- i 
 pable powder, and sift it. Take a pound 
 of fine white salt, dry it thoroughly in an 
 oven, or stove, pound it ;is fine as possible; 
 sift, and mix with it an ounce of the above 
 mentioned spices; amalgamate them thor- 
 oughly, keep the spiced salt in a tin box, 
 which will shut perfectly close. Use it in 
 the following proportion: four drachms to a 
 pound of boned veal. 
 
 SALTING MEAT. In the summer 
 season, especially, meat is fiecjuently spoiled 
 by the cook forgetting to take out the ker- 
 nels; one in the udder of a round of beef, in 
 the fat in the middle of the round, those 
 about the thick end of die flank, &c.: if 
 these are not taken out, all die salt in the 
 world will not keep the meat. 
 
 The art of salting meat is to rub in the 
 salt thoroughly and evenly into every part, 
 and to fill all the holes full of salt where the 
 kernels were taken out, and where die butch- 
 er's skewers were. 
 
 A round of beef of 25 pounds will take a 
 
 pound and a half of salt to be rubbed in all 
 
 at first, and requires to be turned and rubbed 
 
 every day with the brine; it will be ready 
 
 16 
 
 for dressing in four or five days, if you do 
 not wish it very salt. 
 
 In summer, the sooner meat is salted after 
 it is killed, the better; and care must be 
 taken to defend it from the flies. 
 
 In minter, it will eat the shorter and 
 tenderer, if kept a few days (according to 
 the temperature of the weather) until its 
 fibre has become short and tender, as these 
 changes do not take place after it has been 
 acted upon by the salt. 
 
 In frosty weather, take care the meat is 
 not frozen, and warm the salt in a frying- 
 pan. The extremes of heat and cold are 
 equally unfavorable for the process of salting. 
 In the former, the meat changes before the 
 salt can affect it: in the latter, it is so har- 
 dened, and its juices are so congealed, that 
 die salt cannot penetrate it. 
 
 If you wish it red, rub it first with salt- 
 petre, in the proportion of half an ounce, and 
 die like quantity of moist sugar, to a pound 
 of common salt. 
 
 You may imprecate meat with a very 
 agreeable vegetable flavor, by pounding some 
 sweet herbs, and an onion with the salt. 
 You may make it still more relishing by ad- 
 ding a litUe ZEST or savory spice. 
 
 SALT PORK, BOILED. See Bacon. 
 
 SAMPHIRE, TO DRY, OR PRE- 
 SERVE. Take it in bunches as it grows ; 
 set a large deep stewpan full of water on the 
 fire; as soon as it boils, throw in a little 
 salt, and put in the samphire; when it looks 
 of a fine green, remove the pan directly from 
 the file, and take out the samphire with a 
 fork; lay it on sieves to drain; when cold, 
 lay it on earthen plates, strew sugar well 
 over it, next day turn (hem on a sieve, and 
 strew it again with sugar, keep turning dai- 
 ly until it is dry; take care the stove is not 
 too hot. 
 
 SAMPHIRE, TO PICKLE. Lay some 
 samphire that is green in a pan, sprinkle 
 over it two or three handfuls of salt, and 
 cover it with spring water, and let it lay for 
 twenty-four hours ; then put it into a large 
 brass saucepan; throw in a handful of salt; 
 cover the pan close, and set it over a very 
 slow fire; let it stand till it is quite green, 
 and crisp ; then take it off", for if it becomes 
 soft it is spoiled ; put it into a jar, cover it 
 close, and when it is cold, tie it down. 
 
 SANDWICHES FOR TRAVEL- 
 LERS. Spread butter, very thinly, upon 
 the upper part of a stale loaf of bread cut 
 very smooth, and then cut off" the slice; now 
 cut off" another thin slice, but spread it with 
 butter on the under side, without which pre- 
 caution tlie two slices of bread will not fit 
 
SAUCES 
 
 182 
 
 SAUCES 
 
 one another. Next take some cold heeC, or 
 ham, and cut it into very minute particles. 
 Sprinkle tliese tliickly over the butter, and, 
 having added a little mustard, put the slices 
 face to face, and press tliem together. Last- 
 ly, cut the whole into four equal portions, 
 each of w hich is to l^e vv'rapiied in a separate 
 piece of paper. 
 
 SANDWICHES. (1) Cut some bread 
 into thin slices, pare off the crust, and spread 
 a little butter on them ; cut them nicely into 
 oblong pieces, put between each some bits 
 of fowl, and then thin bits of ham, both nice- 
 ly trimmed; add a little mustard and salt. 
 Any cold roasted or potted meat may be used. 
 Serve them for luncheon, garnished with 
 curled parsley. 
 
 SANDWICHES, (2) Properly prepai- 
 ed, are an elegant and convenient luncheon 
 or supper, but have got out of fashion, from 
 the bad manner in which they are common- 
 ly made : to cut the bread neatly with a 
 sharp knife seems to be considered the only 
 essential, and the lining is composed of any 
 offal odds and ends, tliat cannot be sent to 
 table in any other form. Whatever is used 
 must be carefully trimmed fiom every bit of 
 skin, gristle, &c. and nothing introduced 
 but what you are absolutely certain will be 
 acceptable to the mouth. 
 
 SANDWICHES, CAKE. Cut a sponge 
 cake, a few days old, as for bread sand- 
 wiches, and spread strawberiy jam or cur- 
 rant jelly over them. 
 
 SAUCE. (1) Few things require more 
 care than making sauces, as most of them 
 should be stirred constantly, the whole atten- 
 tion should be directed to them ; the better 
 way therefore, is to prepare the sauces before 
 cooking those articles which demand equal 
 care ; they may be kept hot in the bain- 
 marie. 
 
 Butter, and those sauces containing eggs, 
 ought never to boil. 
 
 The dnckest stewpans should be used for 
 making sauces, and wooden-spoons used 
 for stirring them. 
 
 SAUCE. (2) Mix togetlier a pint of 
 vinegar, two shallots or heads of garlic, a 
 tea-spoonful of cayenne, three large table- 
 spoonfuls of Indian soy or mushroom ketch- 
 up, and two of walnut pickle. Let it stand 
 a week, shaking it daily; strain, and bottle 
 it for use. 
 
 FOR ANY SORT OF MEAT. 
 
 Boil and strain three table-spoon fu is of gra- 
 vy, two of vinegar, a blade of mace, a little 
 pepper, salt, and a large sliced onion. 
 
 ANCHOVY. Pound three an- 
 chovies in a mortar with a little bit of but- 
 ter; rub it through a double hair sieve with 
 tlie back of a wooden spoon, and stir it into 
 almost half a pint of melted bulter ; or stir 
 in a table-spoonful of essence of anchovy. 
 To the above, many cooks add lemon-juice 
 and cayenne. 
 
 APPLE. (1) Pare, core, and 
 
 slice some apples ; boil them in water, widi 
 a bit of lemon-peel ; when tender, mash them ; 
 add to tliem a bit of butter tl>e size of a 
 walnut, and some brown sugar. Heat, and 
 serve in a sauce-tureen. / 
 
 APPLE. (2) Pare and core 
 
 three good-sized baking apples; put them 
 into a well-tinned pint saucepan, with two 
 table-spoonfuls of cold water; cover tlie 
 saucepan close, and set it on a trivet over a 
 slow fire a couple of hours before dinner 
 (some apples will take a long time slewing, 
 others will be ready in a quarter of an hour) : 
 when the apples are done enough, pour off 
 the water, let them stand a few minutes to 
 get dry; then beat them up with a fork, 
 with a bit of butter about as big as a nut- 
 meg, and a tea-spoonful of powdered sugar. 
 
 N. B. — Some add lemon-t^eel, grated, or 
 minced fine, or boil a bit with tlie apples. 
 
 ATTELETS. Take of finely- 
 
 minced parsley, mushrooms, and shallots, a 
 table-spoonful each ; fiy diem with a little but- 
 ter, and then dredge in a little flour; moisten 
 the mixture with some good stock, season 
 it with [jepper and salt, and boil it till it 
 begins to thicken ; then take it off the fire, 
 and add the well-beaten yolks of two or 
 three eggs. Stir it well all the time it is 
 making. 
 
 BEEF-GRAVY, or Brown 
 
 Sauce for Ragout, Game, Poultry, 
 Fish, fyc. If you want gravy immediately, 
 see Potato Soup, or Glaze. If you have 
 time enough, furnish a thick and well-tinned 
 stewpan with a thin slice of salt pork, or an 
 ounce of butter, and a middling-sized onion; 
 on this lay a pound of nice, juicy gravy 
 beef, (as the object in making gravy is to 
 extract the nutritious succulence of the meat, 
 it must be beaten to comminute the contain- 
 ing vessels, and scored to augment the sur- 
 face to the action of the water) ; cover the 
 stewpan, and set it on a slow fire; when 
 the meat begins to brown, turn it about, 
 and let it get slightly browned (but take 
 care it is not at all burned): then pour in a 
 pint and a half of boiling water; set the 
 pan on the fire; when it boils, carefully ; 
 catch the scum, and then put in a crust of 
 bread toasted brown (don't burn it) a 
 
SAUCES 
 
 183 
 
 SAUCES 
 
 sprig of winter savory, or lemon thyme and 
 parsley — a roll of thin cut lemon-peel, a doz- 
 en berries of allspice, and a dozen of black 
 pepper. Cover the stewpan close, and let 
 it stew very gently for about two hours, 
 then strain it through a sieve into a basin. 
 Now, if you wish to thicken it, set a clean 
 stewpan over a slow fire, with about an 
 ounce of butter in it ; when it is melted, 
 dredge to it, by degrees, as much flour as 
 will diy it up, stirring them well together ; 
 when thoroughly mixed, pour in a little 
 gravy — stir it well together, and add the re- 
 mainder by degrees ; set it over the fire, let 
 it simmer gently for fifteen minutes longer, 
 skim off the fat, &c. as it rises; when it is 
 about as thick as cream, squeeze it through 
 a tamis or fine sieve — and you will have a 
 fine rich Brown Sauce, at a very moderate 
 expense, and without much trouble. 
 
 FOR BOILED BEEF. Mince 
 
 a large onion, parboil it, and drain oflf the 
 water ; put the onion into a saucepan, with 
 a table-spoonful of finely-chopped parsley, 
 some good gravy, and one ounce of butter 
 dredged with a little flour. Let it boil 
 nearly ten minutes, and add a spoonful of 
 cut capers, which must be thoroughly heat- 
 ed before the sauce is served. 
 
 BROWN. Take a pound or 
 
 two of steaks, two or three pounds of veal, 
 some pickings of fowl, carrots, and onions, 
 put all these into a saucepan with a glass 
 of water, and set it on a brisk fire; when 
 scarcely any moisture remains, put it on a 
 slow fire, that the jelly may take color with- 
 out burning; and as soon as it is brown, 
 moisten it with stock (or water), add a 
 bunch of parsley and green onions, two bay- 
 leaves, two cloves, and some champignons, 
 salt it well, and set it on the fire for three 
 hours, then strain ; dilute a little roux with 
 your liquor, and boil it an hour over a gentle 
 fire, take off all the fat, and run it through 
 a bolting. 
 
 BONNE BOUCHE, FOR 
 
 Goose, Duck, or roast Pork. Mix 
 a tea-spoonfiil of made mustard, a salt-spoon- 
 ful of salt, and a few grains of cayenne, in a 
 large wine-glassful of claret or Port wine ; 
 pour it into the goose by a slit in the apron 
 just before serving up ; or, as all the com- 
 pany may not like it, stir it into a quarter 
 of a pint of thick melted butter, or thicken- 
 ed gravy, and send it up in a boat. A fa- 
 vorite relish for roast pork or geese, &c. is, 
 two ounces of leaves of green sage, an ounce 
 of firesh lemon-peel pared thin, same of salt, 
 minced eschalot, and half a drachm of 
 cayenne pepper, ditto of citric acid, steeped 
 for a fortnight in a pint of claret ', shake it 
 
 up well every day ; let it stand a day to set- 
 tle, and decant the clear liquor ; bottle it, 
 and cork it close ; a table-spoonful or more 
 in a quarter pint of gravy, or melted butter. 
 
 BREAD. (1) Boil, in a pint of 
 
 water, the crumb of a French roll or of a 
 slice of bread, a minced onion, and some 
 whole pepper. When the onion is tender, 
 drain off the water, pick out the pepper- 
 corns, and rub the bread through a sieve; 
 then put it into a saucepan, with a gill of 
 cream, a bit of butter, and a little salt. 
 Stir it till it boil, and sei*ve it in a sauce- 
 tureen. 
 
 BREAD. (2) Mix, in rather 
 
 more than half a pint of milk or water, a 
 slice of grated bread, a dessert-spoonful of 
 potato flour, a small onion pounded, a bit of 
 butter the size of a walnut, a few whole 
 pepper corns, a little mace, and salt. Boil 
 it well, pick out the spices, and mix it 
 smooth. Serve quite hot. 
 
 BREAD. (3) Put a smaU 
 
 tea-cupful of bread crumbs into a stewpan, 
 pour on it as much milk as it Avill soak up, 
 and a little more; or instead of the milk, 
 take the giblets, head, neck, and legs, &c. 
 of the poultry, &c. and stew them, and 
 moisten the bread with tliis liquor ; put it on 
 the fire with a middling-sized onion, and a 
 dozen berries of pepper or allspice, or a lit- 
 tle mace; let it boil, then stir it well, and 
 let it simmer till it is quite fetift", and then 
 put to it about two table-spoonfuls of cream 
 or melted butter, or a little good broth; 
 take out the onion and pepper, and it is 
 ready. 
 
 db». — ^This is an excellent accompani- 
 ment to game and poultry. 
 
 FOR BOILED MEAT, Game, 
 
 AND Poultry. Bruise the yolks of two 
 hard-boiled eggs with a little water and salt ; 
 bone one anchovy, and mince it, a small on- 
 ion, two shallots, a little parsley and tarra- 
 gon, and a few capers ; mix them with the 
 egg, add a table-sf>oonful of fine oil, a little 
 mustard, two table-spoonfuls of lemon, and 
 one of tarragon vinegar; mix all exceed- 
 ingly well together, put it into a sauce-tu- 
 reen, and serve it with the broil ; or it may 
 be served with cold veal. 
 
 CAPER. To make a quarter 
 
 of a pint, take a table-spoonful of capers, 
 and two tea-spoonfuls of vinegar. 
 
 The present fashion of cutting capers is 
 to mince one-third of them very fine, and 
 divide the others in half; put them into a 
 quarter of a pint of melted butter, or good 
 tliickened gravy; stir them tlie same way 
 
SAUCES 
 
 184 
 
 SAUCES 
 
 as you did the melted butter, or it will oil. 
 Some boil, and mince fine a few leaves of 
 parsley, or chervil, or tarragon, and add 
 these to the sauce ; others tlie juice of half 
 a Seville orange, or lemon. 
 
 Keep the caper bottle vei*y closely corked, 
 and do not use any of the caper liquor: if 
 the capers are not well covered with it, they 
 M'ill immediately spoil ; and it is an excel- 
 lent ingredient in hashes, &c. The Dutch 
 use it as a fish sauce, mixing it with melted 
 butter. 
 
 CARRIER. Scrape a small 
 
 stick of horse-radish, cut an onion or two 
 in thin slices, put tliese into a sauce-tureen 
 with a little vinegar and whole pepper ; set 
 the tureen in tlie dripping-pan under a 
 shoulder of mutton whilst roasting; serve 
 this sauce quite hot with the meat. 
 
 CELERY, WHITE. Pick and 
 
 wash two heads of nice white celery ; cut it 
 into pieces about an inch long; stew it in a 
 pint of water, and a tea-spoonful of salt, till 
 tiie celei-y is tender ; roll an ounce of butter 
 with a table-spoonful of flour; add this to 
 half a pint of cream, and give it a boil up. 
 
 CELERY PUREE, /or boiled 
 
 Turkey, Veal, Fowls, fyc. Cut small 
 half a dozen heads of nice white celery that 
 is quite clean, and two onions sliced; put 
 in a two-quart stewpan, with a small lump 
 of butter: sweat them over a slow fire till 
 quite tender, then put in two spoonfuls of 
 flour, half a pint of water (or beef or veal 
 broth), salt and pepper, and a little (jream or 
 milk ; boil it a quarter of an hour, and pass 
 through a fine hair sieve with the back of a 
 spoon. If you wish for celery sauce when 
 celery is not in season, a quarter of a drachm 
 of celery seed, or a little essence of celeiy, 
 will impregnate half a pint of sauce with a 
 sufficient portion of the flavor of the vege- 
 table. 
 
 nicely-cleaned currants, add three table- 
 spoonfuls of grated bread, a piece of butter 
 tlie size of a walnut, four cloves, and a glass 
 of Port wine; stir it till it boil, and serve it 
 hot. 
 
 CURRY, Is made by stirring a 
 
 sufficient quantity of curry powder, into gra- 
 vy or melted butter, or onion sauce, or onion 
 gravy. The compositions of curry powder, 
 and the palates of those who eat it, vary so 
 much, that we cannot recommend any spe- 
 cific quantity. The cook must add it by 
 degrees, tasting as she proceeds, and take 
 care not to put in too much. 
 
 DUTCH. (1) Beat up the yolks 
 
 of six eggs, mix in a little flour, cream, salt, 
 and lemon vinegar. Strain it through a 
 sieve, add a small piece of fresh IxUter, two 
 blades of pounded mace, and a little pepper. 
 Put it into a saucepan, and stir it till it 
 is almost boilinjr. 
 
 CHESTNUT, FOR ROAST 
 
 TURKEY. Scald a pound of good chest- 
 nuts in hot water for five minutes, skin them, 
 and stew them slowly for two hours in white 
 stock, seasoned and thickened with butter 
 <ind flour. Cut a pound of pork sausages 
 into bits about an inch long, dust them with 
 flour, and fi-y them a light brown ; lay them 
 into the dish on which the turkey is to be 
 served, and pour the chestnuts and sauce 
 over tliem. Some people prefer the fried 
 sausages stewed a little with the chestnuts; 
 but this metliod makes the sauce of a darker 
 color. 
 
 CURRANT, FOR VENISON. EGG. (2) Boil three or four 
 
 Boil in water for a few minutes au ounce of eggs about a quarter of an hour, put them 
 
 DUTCH. (2) Put into a stewpan 
 
 a tea-spoonful of flour, foiu- table-spoonfuls of 
 elder vinegar, a quarter of a pound of fresh 
 butter, the yolks of five eggs, and a little 
 salt ; keep stirring it over the fire, and work 
 it well till thick. If it be not curdled, it 
 will not require to be strained. Season 
 with pepper. 
 
 DUTCH, FOR Fish or Boii.- 
 
 ED Fowls. Mix, with two ounces of 
 fresh butter, one tea-spoonful of flour, two 
 table-spoonflils of cold water, the same 
 quantity of vinegar, and one well-beaten 
 egg ; put it into a saucepan, and stir it over 
 the file till it be quite hot, but do not allow 
 it to boil. 
 
 EGG. (1) This agreeable accom- 
 paniment to roasted poultry, or salted fish, 
 is made by putting three eggs into boiling 
 water, and boiling them for about twelve 
 minutes, when they will be hard; put them 
 into cold water till you want them. This 
 will make the yolks firmer, and prevent 
 their surface turning black, and you can cut 
 them much neater: use only two of the 
 whites, cut the whites into small dice, the 
 yolks into bits about a quarter of an inch 
 square; put them into a sauce-boat; pour 
 to them half a pint of melted butter, and 
 stir them together. 
 
 If you are for superlative egg sauce, 
 pound 'die yolks of a couple of eggs, and rub 
 tl)em with the melted butter to thicken it. 
 
 N. B. — Some cooks garnish salt fish with 
 hard-boiled eggs cut in half. 
 
SAUCES 
 
 185 
 
 SAUCES 
 
 into cold water, take off the shells, cut three 
 of the whites and four yolks into small 
 pieces, mix them with melted butter, and 
 heat it well. 
 
 ESCHALOT. Take four es- 
 chalots, and make it in the same manner as 
 garlic sauce. Or, you may make this sauce 
 more extemporaneously by putting two table- 
 spoonfuls of eschalot wine, and a sprinkling 
 of pepper and salt, into (almost) half a pint 
 of thick melted butter. This is an excellent 
 sauce for chops or steaks; many are very 
 fond of it with roasted or boiled meat, 
 poultry, &c. 
 
 ESCHALOT, FOR BOIL- 
 
 ED MUTTON. This is a very frequent 
 and satisfactory substitute for caper sauce. 
 Mince four eschalots very fine, and put them 
 into a small saucepan, with almost half a pint 
 of the liquor the mutton was boiled in: let 
 them boil up for five minutes; then put in a 
 table-spoonful of vinegar, a quarter tea-spoon- 
 ful of pepper, a little salt, and a bit of butter 
 (as big as a walnut) rolled in flour; shake 
 together till it boils. 
 
 ESCAVEKE SAUCE, for 
 
 Cold Game, Fowl, or Meat. Beat, 
 in a marble mortar, the following ingredients : 
 five cloves of garlic, six cloves of shal- 
 lot, as much pounded ginger as will lie upon 
 a sixpence, and the same of cayenne, a ta- 
 ble-spoonful of coriander seed, and a little 
 salt. Pour upon them, boiling hot, a pint 
 of the best white wine vinegar ; add the peel 
 of a lemon, cut veiy thin. When cold, put 
 the whole into a bottle, cork it tightly, and 
 shake it well before using. 
 
 FOR FISH. (1) The melted 
 
 butter for fish, should be thick enough to ad- 
 here to thefish, and, therefore, must be of the 
 thickness of light batter, as it is to be dilut- 
 ed with essence of anchovy, soy, mushroom 
 ketchup, cayenne, or Chili vinegar, lemons 
 or lemon-juice, or artificial lemon-juice, &c. 
 which are exf)ected at all well-served tables. 
 Cooks, who are jealous of the reputation of 
 their taste, and housekeepers who value their 
 health, will prepare these articles at home : 
 there are quite as many reasons why they 
 should, as there are for the preference usually 
 given to home-baked bread, and home-brew- 
 ed beer. The liver of the fish jX)unded and 
 mixed with parsley and butter, with a little 
 lemon-juice, &c. is an elegant and inoffensive 
 relish to fish. 
 
 FOR FISH. (2) Two wine-gla 
 
 68 of Port, and two of walnut pickle, four of 
 
 mushroom ketchup, half a dozen anchovies, 
 
 pounded, the like numljer of eschalots sliced 
 
 16* 
 
 and pounded, a table-spoonful of soy, and 
 half a d»-achm of cayenne pepper ; let them 
 simmer gently for ten minutes ; strain it, and 
 when cold, put it into bottles, well corked, 
 and sealed over, it will keep for a considera- 
 ble time. 
 
 06s.— This is commonly called Quln's 
 
 FOR FISH. (3) A table- 
 spoonful of anchovy juice, one of soy, and 
 two of mushroom ketchup, mixed in a quar- 
 ter of a pound of melted butter. 
 
 FOR FISH. (4) Three ancho- 
 
 vies and an onion chopped, and a small bit 
 of horseradish boiled in some stock, then 
 strained, and thickened with a piece of but- 
 ter rolled in flour. 
 
 FOR FISH. (5) Boil in half a 
 
 pint of water one or two anchovies, two 
 cloves, a blade of mace, a bit of lemon-peel, 
 a few peppercorns, and two table-spoonfuls 
 of Port wine ; strain and thicken it with a 
 piece of butter rolled in flour. 
 
 FOR FISH. (6) Mix well with 
 
 two ounces of melted butter, of mushroom 
 ketchup, essence of anchovies, and lemon 
 pickle, a table-spoonful each, a tea-spoonful 
 of soy, and a little cayenne. Boil it before 
 serving. 
 
 FOR FISH. (7) Chop two dozen 
 
 of whole anchovies, mix with them half a 
 pint of anchovy liquor, two shallots cut small, 
 and three pints of Port wine, one of vinegar, 
 one lemon sliced, one handful of scraped 
 horseradish, and ten blades of mace, one 
 nutmeg, twelve peppercorns, six cloves, all 
 bruised, and one table-spoonful of flour of 
 mustard. Boil these together about fifteen 
 or twenty minutes; wlien cold, strain and 
 bottle it, waxing the corks. It will keep 
 good a year. A table-spoonful improves 
 oyster sauce, and that quantity is sufficient 
 for a sauce-tureen of melted butter. 
 
 FOR FISH. (8) A quart of Port 
 
 wine, half a pint of best vinegar, one pound 
 of bruised anchovies, one ounce of mace and 
 one of cloves, half an ounce of i:)epper, one 
 large onion, and the peel of one lemon; boil 
 all these ingredients togetlier, over a slow 
 fire, till a pint is wasted ; then strain, and 
 bottle it, and keep it closely stopped. 
 
 FISH OR MEAT SAUCE, TO MAKE 
 A QUART BOTTLE OF, To half a 
 bottle of vinegar put one ounce of cayenne, 
 two cloves of garlic, one table-spoonful of 
 soy, two of walnut, and two of mushroom 
 ketchup. Let it stand six days, shaking it 
 
SAUCES 
 
 186 
 
 SAUCES 
 
 fi^uently, then add the remaining half of 
 the bottle of vinegar; let it stand another 
 week, strain, and put it into small bottles. 
 
 WHITE, FOR FISH. Four 
 
 anchovies chopped, two glasses of white 
 wine, a large one of vinegar, an onion stuck 
 with three cloves, and cut into quarters ; let 
 all these simmer till the anchovies dissolve; 
 sti'ain it, and add a quarter of a pound of 
 butter kneaded in a table-spoonful of flour. 
 When it has melted, stir in gradually, one 
 way, half a pint of cream, taking care that 
 it do not boil. When thoroughly heated, 
 serve in a sauce-tureen. 
 
 LIVER, FOR FISH. Boil the 
 
 liver of the fish, and pound it in a mortar 
 with a little flour ; stir it into some broth, 
 or some of the liquor the fish was boiled in, 
 or melted butter, parsley, and a few grains 
 of cayenne, a little essence of anchovy, or 
 soy, or ketchup; give it a boil up, and rub 
 it through a sieve : you may add a little lem- 
 on-juice, or lemon cut in dice. 
 
 PINK, FOR FISH. Put into a 
 
 pan, or wide-mouthed jar, one quart of good 
 vinegar, half a pint of Port wine, half an 
 ounce of cayenne, one large table-spoonful 
 of walnut ketchup, two ditto of anchovy 
 liquor, a quarter of an ounce of cochineal, 
 and six cloves of garlic. Let it remain forty 
 hours, stirring it two or three times a-day; 
 run it through a flannel bag, and put it into 
 half-pint bottles. 
 
 FOR PIKE. Mix with a pint 
 
 of cream a table-spoonful of anchovy sauce, 
 the same of soy, and two of ketchup, a 
 piece of butter rolled in flour; put it into a 
 saucepan, and stir it one way till nearly 
 boiling. 
 
 WHITE, FOR PIKE. Simmer 
 
 till half wasted, two table-spoonfuls of white 
 wine, one of vinegar, half a small onion, and 
 «5ome grated nutmeg; add a piece of butter 
 rolled in flour, then a small tea-cupful of 
 cream; heat it thoroughly, stirring it all the 
 time, and taking care that it do not boil. 
 
 GREEN GOOSEBERRY. Boil 
 
 some green gooseberries in water till soft, 
 aad sweeten them with brown sugar. 
 
 GOOSEBERRY. Top and tail 
 
 them close with a pair of scissors, and scald 
 half a {)int of green gooseberries; drain them 
 on a Irair sieve, and put them into half a 
 pint of melted butter. Some add grated 
 ginger and lemon-peel, and the French, min- 
 ced fennel ; others send up the gooseberries 
 whole or maslied, witliout any butter, &c. 
 
 GOOSE STUFFING. Chop 
 
 very fine an ounce of onion and half an ounce 
 of green sage leaves ; put them into a stew- 
 pan with four spoonfuls of water; simmer 
 gently for ten minutes; then put in a tea- 
 spoonful of pepper and salt, and one ounce 
 of fine bread crumbs; mix well together; 
 then pour to it a (inarter of a pint of broth, 
 or gravy, or melted butter, stir well togeth- 
 er, and simmer it a few minutes longer. 
 
 — GRANDE. Take three or four 
 
 slices from the under part of a knuckle of 
 veal, and put them into a large stewpan 
 with two ladlefuls of consomme, set it on a 
 fierce fire, taking care to skim it as much as 
 possible, and with a cloth wipe away all 
 that adheres to the inside of the stewpan ; 
 when the consomme is reduced, prick the 
 slices with a knife to let out the giavy; then 
 set the stewpan on a slow fire, that the meat 
 and glaze may adhere together, and as soon 
 as the latter is of a clear light color, take it 
 off", leave it covered for ten minutes, then fiU 
 it up with rich stock, in which is four or 
 five large can-ots, and three onions; let it 
 boil slowly for two hours. In the meantime 
 put the knuckle into a saucepan with four or 
 five carrots, as many onions (one stuck with 
 cloves), and two ladlefuls of consomme; 
 set it on a brisk fire that the liquor may re- 
 duce to a jelly; as soon as this jelly begins 
 to take color, pour on it the liquor from the 
 other saucepan to dissolve the jelly gradual- 
 ly; then make it boil. Dilute some roiix 
 with the above liquor, and add it to the meat 
 with some champignons, a bunch of parsley, 
 scallions, and two bay-leaves, skim it when 
 it begins to boil, and again when the ronx 
 is .added, put in more consomme or roux, 
 according as it is too thick or too thin. 
 
 When it has boiled an hour and a half, 
 take off" all the fat ; and when the meat is 
 quite done, strain the sauce dnough a bol- 
 ting-cloth. 
 
 GRILL. To half a pint of gravy, 
 
 add an ounce of fresh buitei', and a table- 
 spoonful of flour, previously well rubbed to- 
 gether, the same of mushroom or walnut 
 ketchup, two tea-spoonfuls of lemon-juicei, 
 one of made mustard, one of minced capers, 
 half a one of black pepper, a quarter of a 
 rind of a lemon grated very thin, a tea- 
 spoonful of essence of anchovies, and a little 
 eschalot wine, or a very small piece of mii>- 
 ced eschalot, and a little Chili vinegar, or a 
 few grains of cayenne; simmer together for 
 a few minutes; pour a little of it over tlie 
 grill ; and send up die rest in a sauce-tureen. 
 
 HARVEY. Chop twelve ancho- 
 
 vies, bones and all, vei-y small, with one 
 ounce of cayenne pepper, six sjMXtnfuls of 
 
SAUCES 
 
 187 
 
 SAUCES 
 
 soy, six ditto of good walnut pickle, three 
 heads of garlic, chopped not very small, a 
 quarter of an ounce of cochineal, two heads 
 of shallots, chopped not vei-y small, one gal- 
 lon of vinegar; let it stand fourteen days, 
 stir it well, twice or thrice every day ; then 
 pass it Uirough a jelly-bag, and repeat this 
 till it is perfectly clear; then bottle it, and 
 tie a bladder over the cork. 
 
 HORSERADISH, TO EAT 
 
 WITH Hot or Cold Meat. Mix a tea- 
 spoonful of mustard, a table-spoonful of vin- 
 egar, and three of cream ; add a little salt, 
 and as much finely-grated horseradish as 
 will make the sauce tlie consistence of 
 onion sauce. 
 
 FOR HASHES AND MADE 
 
 DISHES. A pint of Port wine, twelve 
 anchovies chopped, a quarter of a pint of 
 vinegar, as much beaten pepper as will lie 
 on half a crown, two or three cloves, a 
 blade or two of mace, a nutmeg bruised, 
 one small onion minced, two bay-leaves, a 
 little lemon thyme, marjoram, and partijey, 
 and a piece of horseradish about the length 
 (rfa finger split into quarters; put all into a 
 saucepan, and let it simmer till the ancho- 
 vies are dissolved ; then strain it, and, when 
 oold, bottle it for use. 
 
 FOR HASHED OR MINCED 
 
 VEx4L. Take the bones of cold roast or 
 boiled veal, dredge them well with flour, 
 and put them into a stewpan with a pint 
 and a half of broth or water, a small onion, 
 A little grated or finely-minced lemon-peel, 
 or the peel of a quarter of a small lemon, 
 pared as thin as possible, half a tea-spoonful 
 of salt, and a blade of pounded mace; to 
 thicken it, rub a table-spoonful of flour into 
 half an ounce of butter ; stir it into the 
 broth, and set it on the fire, and let it boil 
 very gently for about half an hour ; strain 
 through a tamis or sieve, and it is ready to 
 put to tlie veal to warm up; which is to be 
 done by placing the stewpan by the side of 
 tlie fire. Squeeze in half a lemon, and cov- 
 er die bottom of the dish with toasted bread 
 sippets cut into triangles, and garnish the 
 dish with slices of ham or bacon. 
 
 FOR HASHES OF MUTTON 
 
 OR BEEF. Unless you are quite sure you 
 ix;rft;ctly understand the palate of those you 
 are working for, show those who are to 
 eat the hash this receipt, and beg of them to 
 direct you how they wish it seasoned. 
 
 Half the number of the ingredients enu- 
 merated will he more than enough: but as it 
 is a receipt so often wanted we have given 
 variety. 
 
 Chop the bones and fragments of the joint. 
 
 &c., and put them into a stewpan; cover 
 them with boiling water, six berries of 
 black pepper, the same of allspice, a small 
 bundle of parsley, half a head of celery cut 
 in pieces, and a small sprig of savory, or 
 lemon thyme, or sweet marjoram ; cover up, 
 and let it simmer gently for half an hour. 
 
 SUce half an ounce of onion, and put it 
 into a stewpan with an ounce of butter ; fry 
 it over a sharp fire for about a couple of 
 minutes, till it takes a little color; then stir 
 in as much flour as will make it a stiff 
 paste, and by degrees mix with it the gravy 
 you have made from the bones, &c. ; let it 
 boil very gently for about a quarter of an 
 hour, till it is the consistence of cream; 
 strain it through a tamis or sieve into a ba- 
 sin ; put it back into the stewpan : to season 
 it, cut in a few pickled onions, or walnuts, 
 or a couple of gherkins, and a table-spoonful 
 of mushrooni ketchup, or walnut or other 
 pickle liquor; or some capers, and caper 
 liquor; or a table-spoonful of ale; or a little 
 eschalot, or tarragon vinegar ; cover the bot- 
 tom of the dish with sippets of bread (that 
 they may become savory reservoirs of gra- 
 vy), which some toast and cut into triangles- 
 You may garnish it with fried bread sippets. 
 
 N. B. — ^To hash meat in perfection, it 
 should be laid in this gravy only just long 
 enough to get properly warm through. 
 
 Obs. — If any of the gravy that was sent 
 up with, or ran from the joint when it was 
 roasted, be left, it will be a great improve- 
 ment to the hash. 
 
 If you wish to make mock venison, instead 
 of the onion, put in two or three cloves, a 
 table-spoonful of currant jelly, and the same 
 quantity of claret or Port wine, instead of 
 the ketchup. 
 
 You may make a cuny hash by adding 
 some curry jam. 
 
 N. B. — A pint of Beef-gi'avy Sauce is an 
 excellent gravy to warm up eitlier meat or 
 poultry. 
 
 KELLY'S, FOR BOILED 
 
 Tripe, Calf-head, or Cow-heel. 
 Garlic vinegar, a table-spoonful ; of mustard, 
 brown sugar, and black pepper, a tea-spoon- 
 ful each ; stirred into half a pint of oiled 
 melted butter. 
 
 KELLY'S PIQUANTE. Pound 
 
 a table-spoonful of capers, and one of minced 
 parsley, as fine as possible; then add the 
 yolks of three hard eggs, rub them well to- 
 gether with a table-spoonful of mustard; 
 bone six anchovies, and pound them, rub 
 them through a hair sieve, and mix with two 
 table-spoonfuls of oil, one of vinegar, one of 
 eschalot ditto, and a few grains of cayenne 
 pepper; rub all these well together in a 
 mortar, till thoroughly inf;orporated ; then 
 
SAUCES 
 
 188 
 
 SAUCES 
 
 Bth* them into half a pint of good gravy, or 
 ineked butter, and put the whole through a 
 
 LEMON. Pare a lemon, and 
 
 cut it into slices twice as thick as a half- 
 crown piece ; divide these into dice, and put 
 them into a quarter of a pint of melted but- 
 ter. Some cooks mince a bit of the lemon- 
 peel (pared very thin) very fine, and add it 
 to the above. 
 
 LEMON AND LIVER. Pare 
 
 off the rind of a lemon, or of a Seville orange, 
 as thin as possible, so as not to cut off any 
 of the white witli it; now cut off all the 
 white, and cut the lemon into slices about 
 as thick as a couple of half-crowns ; pick out 
 the pips, and divide the slices into small 
 squares : add these, and a little of the peel 
 minced very fine to the liver, prepared as 
 directed above, and put them into the melted 
 butter, and warm them together ; but do not 
 let them boil. 
 
 N. B. — The poulterers can always let you 
 have fresh livers, if that of the fowl or rabbit 
 is not good, or not large enough to make as 
 much sauce as you wish. 
 
 Obs. — Some cooks, instead of pounding, 
 mince the liver very fine (with half as much 
 bacon), and leave out the parsley; others 
 add the juice of half a lemon, and some of 
 the peel grated, or a tea-spoonful of tarragon 
 or Chili vinegar, a table-spoonful of white 
 wine, or a Utile beaten mace, or nutmeg, 
 or allspice: if you wish it a little more liyely 
 on the palate, pound an eschalot, or a few 
 leaves of tarragon or basil, with anchory, or 
 ketchup, or cayenne. 
 
 LIVER AND PARSLEY, OR 
 
 LIVER AND LEMON. Wash the liver 
 (it must be perfectly fresh) of a fowl or rab- 
 bit, and boil it five minutes in five table- 
 spoonfuls of water; chop it fine, or pound 
 or bruise it in a small quantity of the licjuor 
 it was boiled in, and mb it through a sieve: 
 wash aix>ut one- third the bulk of parsley 
 leaves, put them on to boil in a little boiling 
 water, with a tea-spoonful of salt in it; lay 
 it on a hair sieve to drain, and mince it very 
 fine; mix it with the liver, and put it into a 
 quarter pint of melted butter, and warm it 
 up; do not let it boil. 
 
 . LOBSTER. (1) Bruise the body, 
 
 add it to some thick melted butler ; pull the 
 flesh into small bits, and mix all together 
 witli some rich beef gravy ; boil it up, and 
 before serving add a little salt, and squeeze 
 in a little lemon-juice. 
 
 LOBSTER. (2) Pound veiy 
 
 finely the spawn of a lobster, nib it tlirough ! 
 
 a sieve, mix it with a quarter of a pound 
 of melted butter, th^n add the meat of the 
 lobster cut into small bits. Make it quite 
 hot, but do not allow it to boil. 
 
 LOBSTER. See Lobster. 
 
 FOR LOBSTER. Bruise the 
 
 yolks of two hard-boiled eggs with the back 
 of a wooden spoon, or rather pound tliem in 
 a mortar, widi a tea-spoonful of water, and 
 the soft inside and the spawn of the lobster ; 
 rub them quite smooth, with a tea-spoonful 
 of made mustard, two table-spoonfuls of 
 salad oil, and five of vinegar; season it with 
 a very little cayenne pepper, and some salt. 
 
 LOVE-APPLE, ACCORDING 
 
 TO UDE. Melt in a stewpan a dozen or 
 two of love-apples (which, before putting in 
 the stewpan, cut in two, and squeeze the 
 juice and the seeds out) ; then put two es- 
 chalots, one onion, with a few bits of ham, 
 a clove, a little thyme, a bay-leaf, a few 
 leaves of mace, and when melted, rub them 
 through a tamis. Mix a few spoonfuls of 
 good Espagnole or Spanish sauce, and a 
 little salt and pepper, with this puree. Boil 
 it for twenty minutes, and serve up. 
 
 MINT. (1) Pick and wash 
 
 some green mint; add, when minced, a 
 table-spoonful of the young leaves, to four 
 of vinegar, and put it into a sauce-tureen, 
 with a tea-spoonful of brown sugar. 
 
 —MINT. (2) Wash half a hand- 
 ful of nice, young, fresh-gathered green mint 
 (to this some add one-third the quantity of 
 parsley) ; pick the leaves from tlie stalks, 
 mince them very fine, and put them into a 
 sauce-boat, with a tea-spoonful of moist su- 
 gar, and four table-spoonfuls pf vinegar. 
 
 MOCK CAPER. Cut some 
 
 pickled green pease, French beans, gherkins, 
 or nasturtiums, into bits the size of capers; 
 put them into half a pint of melted butter, 
 with two tea-spoonfuls of lemon-juice, or 
 nice vinegar. 
 
 MOCK OYSTER. Put into a 
 
 saucepan two or three chopped anchovies, a 
 quarter of a pint of water, a little mace, and 
 one or two cloves; let them simmer till the 
 anchovies be quite dissolved. Strain it, and 
 when cool, add a tea-cupful of cream; thick- 
 en it with a piece of butter rolled in flour, 
 and heat it up. It may be poured over 
 boiled fowls or veal. 
 
 MOCK TOMATA. The only 
 
 difference between this and genuine love- 
 apple sauce, is the substituting the pulp of 
 
SAUCES 
 
 189 
 
 SAUCES 
 
 apple for that of tomata, coloring it with 
 tumeric, and communicating an acid flavor 
 i^^ii by vinegar. 
 
 ' MUSHROOM. Pick and peel 
 
 half a pint of muslirooms (the smaller the 
 better) ; wash them very clean, and put them 
 into a saucepan, with half a pint of veal 
 gravy or milk, a little pepper and salt, and 
 an ounce of butter rubbed with a table-spoon- 
 ful of flour ; stir them togetlier, and set them 
 over a gentle fire, to stew slowly till tender ; 
 skim and strain it. 
 
 Obs. — It will be a great improvement to 
 this, and die two following sauces, to add to 
 them die juice of half a dozen mushrooms, 
 prepared the day before, by sprinkling them 
 with salt, the same as when you make ketch- 
 up ; or add a large spoonful of good double 
 mushroom ketchup. 
 
 See Quintessence of Mushrooms. 
 
 MUSHROOM, FOR BOILED 
 
 Turkey or Fowl. Pick clean and 
 wash a pint of small mushrooms, rub them 
 with flannel, put them into a saucepan with a 
 blade of mace, a little salt, grated nutmeg, 
 a piece of butter rolled in flour, and a pint 
 of cream, keep stirring them till they boil, 
 then pour tliem round the turkey, fowl, or 
 chicken. 
 
 WHITE ONI9N. The follow- 
 
 inp; is a more mild and delicate preparation : 
 ts^e half a dozen of the largest and whitest 
 onions (the Spanish are the mildest, but 
 these can only be had from August to De- 
 cember); peel them and cut them in half, 
 ftnd lay diem in a pam of spring water for a 
 quarter of an hour, and then boil for a quar- 
 ter of an hour ; and then, if you wish them 
 to taste very mild, pour off that water, and 
 cover them with fresh boiling water, and let 
 tliem boil till they are tender, which will 
 sometimes take tliree-cjuarters of an hour 
 longer. 
 
 ONION. Boil twelve or more 
 
 onions in water; when it boils, pour it off", 
 add more hot water, and when the onions 
 are tender, strain and mash them in a bowl, 
 add a piece of butter, a little salt, and one 
 oi" two spoonfuls of cream. Heat it before 
 serving. An apple may be boiled with the 
 onions. 
 
 ONION, OR ONION GRAVl!. 
 
 Peel and slice the onions (some put in an 
 efjual quantitjiof cucumber or celei-y) into a 
 quart stewpan, with an ounce of butter; set 
 it on a slow fire, and turn the onion about 
 till it is very lightly browned ; now gradually 
 stir in half an ounce of flour ; add a little 
 broth J and a little pepper and salt; boil up 
 
 for a few minutes ; add a table-spoonful of 
 claret, or Port wine, and same of mush* 
 room ketchup, (you may sharpen it with a 
 little lemon-juice or vinegar), and rub it 
 through a tamis or fine sieve. Curry powder 
 will convert this into excellent curry sauce. 
 
 N. B. — If this sauce is for steaks, shred 
 an ounce of onions, fi-y them a nice brown, 
 and put them to the sauce you have rubbed 
 through a tamis; or some very small, round, 
 young silver button onions, f)eeled and boil- 
 ed tender, and put in whole when your sauce 
 is done, will be an acceptable addition. 
 
 Obs. — If you have no broth, put in half a 
 pint of water, and just before you give it the 
 last boil up, add to it another table-spoonfid 
 of mushroom ketchup, or the same quantity 
 of Port wine or good ale. The flavor of 
 diis sauce may be varied by adding tarragon 
 or burnet vinegar. 
 
 ONION. See Onion. 
 
 ORANGE GRAVY, for wild 
 
 Ducks, Woodcocks, Snipes, Widg- 
 eon, Teal, &c. Set on a saucepan with 
 half a pint of veal gravy ; add to it half a 
 dozen leaves of basil, a small onion, and a 
 roll of orange or lemon peel, and let it boil 
 up for a few minutes, and strain it off". Put 
 to the clear gravy the juice of a Seville or- 
 ange, or lemon, half a^ tea-spoonful of salt, 
 the same of pepper, and a glass of red wine ; 
 send it up hot. Eschalot and cayenne may 
 be added. This is an excellent sauce for 
 all kinds of wild water-fowl. 
 
 Gravies should always be sent up in a 
 covered boat : they keep hot longer ; and it 
 leaves it to the choice of the company to 
 partake of them or not. 
 
 OYSTER. See Oysters. 
 
 PIQUANT, Put a little chop- 
 ped shallot and a few spoonfuls of gravy in- 
 to a saucepan ; let it boil till the gravy be 
 nearly boiled away, but not burned to the 
 bottom of the saucepan ; add as much 
 braise as may be required for the sauce, 
 season with pepper and salt, boil it a few 
 minutes, then add a little lemon-juice, sugar, 
 and a tea-spoonful of garlic vinegar. 
 
 N. B. — Braise is an onion stuck wi'h 
 cloves, and boiled till tender in gravy and 
 white wine. 
 
 PIQUANT, for cold Meat, 
 
 Game, Poultry, Fish, ^c. or Salads. 
 Pound iti a mortar the yolks of two eggs 
 that have been boiled hard Avith a mustard- 
 spoonful of made mustard, and a little pep- 
 per and salt ; add two table-spoonfuls of sal- 
 ad oil ; mix well, and then add tliree table- 
 spoonfuls of vinegai- ; rub it up well till it ia 
 
SAUCES 
 
 190 
 
 SAUCES 
 
 quite smooth, and pass it through a tamis or 
 sieve. 
 
 Obs, — ^To the above, some add an an- 
 chovy, or a table-sf)Oonful of mushroom 
 ketchup, or wahiut pickle, some finely-chop- 
 ped parsley, grated horseradish, or young 
 onions minced, or burnet, horseradish or 
 tarragon, or elder vinegar, &c., and cay- 
 enne or minced pickles, capers, &c. This 
 is a piquante relish for lobsters, crabs; cold 
 tish, &c. 
 
 SALAD OR PIQUANT, FOR 
 
 COLD Meat, Fish, &c. Pound together 
 an ounce of scraped horseradish, half an 
 ounce of salt, a table-spoonfiil of made mus- 
 tard, four drachms of minced eschalots, 
 half a drachm of celery seed, and half ditto 
 of cayenne, adding gradually a pint of bur- 
 net, or tarragon vinegar, and let it stand in 
 a jar a week, and then pass it through a 
 sieve. 
 
 POIVRADE, FOR COLD 
 
 MEAT. (1) Chop finely six shallots and a 
 Iiandful of picked and washed parsley ; mix 
 with it a little vinegar, mustard, cayenne 
 some cold gravy, and salt. 
 
 POIVRADE, FOR COLD 
 
 MEAT. (2) Bruise the yolk of a hard- 
 boiled egg with a little salt and mustard, 
 oil, soy, chopped parsley, and chives, and 
 pour it over slices of any cold meat. 
 
 PUDDING. Mix with half a 
 
 pint of melted butter two wine-glasses of 
 sherry, and a table-spoonful of pounded 
 loaf sugar; make it quite hot, and serve in 
 a sauce-tureen, witli grated nutmeg on tlie 
 top. 
 
 QUIN'S. (1) Half a pint of 
 
 mushroom pickle, the same of walnut pickle, 
 three whole and three pounded cloves of 
 garlic, six anchovies bruised, and a tea- 
 spoonful of cayenne. Mix all together in a 
 large bottle, shake it daily for three weeks, 
 then sti-ain, and bottle it for use. 
 
 QUIN'S. (2) One pint of 
 
 Port wine, one of mushroom ketchup, one 
 of walnut liquor, one of essence of ancho- 
 vies, and a tea-spoonful of cayenne; mix 
 all together, and boil it for a quarter of an 
 liour. If essence of anchovies, is not to be 
 had, lx)il half a pound of anchovies in a 
 quart of water till reduced to a pint. Strain, 
 and use it. 
 
 REVEREND. Chop up some 
 
 lemon-peel, and two or three pickled cu- 
 ciunbers; put them into a stewpan with 
 two spionfiils of ctjlljs, a little butter rolled 
 
 in flour, season with salt and pepper, put 
 It on the fire, and make it quite hot without 
 boiling, stirring all the lime, make a liaison 
 with yolks of eggs, and serve. 
 
 RICE. Steep a quarter of a 
 
 pound of rice in a pint of milk, with onion, 
 pepper, &c. as in the last receipt; when 
 the rice is quite tender (take out the spice), 
 rub it through a sieve into a clean stewpan: 
 if too thick, put a little milk or cream to it. 
 
 Obs. — This is a very delicate white 
 sauce; and at elegant tables is frequently 
 served instead of bread sauce. 
 
 FOR ROAST BEEF. (1) Mix 
 
 well together a large table-spoonful of 
 finely-grated horseradish, a dessert-spoon- 
 ful of made mustard, and half a one of 
 brown sugar, then add vinegar till it l;e as 
 thick as made mustard. Serve in a sauce- 
 tureen. 
 
 FOR ROAST BEEF. (2) Put 
 
 into a stone jar one gill of soy, two of vine- 
 gaj', two of water, a good-sized stick of 
 horseradish, and two sliced onions. Cover 
 the jar closely, and set it into a pan of cold 
 water; when it boils, let it simmer for two 
 or three hours. 
 
 ROBART, FOR Beef Steaks 
 
 OR Mutton Chops. Put into a saucepan 
 a littJe gravy, two ounces of butter dredged 
 with flour, a small slice of raw ham, and 
 two or three minced onions; when the on- 
 ions ai"e browned, dust in a little more 
 flour, and add nearly a pint of gravy, a lit- 
 tle salt and pepper, a tea-spoonful of mus- 
 tard, and a table-spoonful of vinegar. Boil 
 it for some minutes, strain and sene it. 
 
 SALAD. (1) Bruise the yolk 
 
 of a hard-boiled egg with a small tea-spoon- 
 ful of salt, then add a dessert-spoonful of 
 mustard, and stir in gradually a large table- 
 spoonful of olive oil, oiled butter, or cream, 
 Uien by degrees mix in two or three table- 
 spoonfuls of vinegar; serve it in a sauce- 
 tureen, or mix it with the salad. Instead 
 of tlie hard egg, some persons prefer the 
 tiauce made with the yolk raw. 
 
 SALAD. (2) Rub smooth a 
 
 hard-boiled egg, beat well a raw egg, and 
 mix them together with a little water, a 
 tea-spoonful of salt, one of cayenne, one of 
 pepper, and one of mustard, a table-spoon- 
 ful of vinegar, one of essence of anchovies, "f 
 and five of rich cream. 
 
 The artist, as he styled himself, who in- 
 vented this salad sauce drove in his carriage 
 to his employers, and charged them ten shil- 
 lings and sixpence for each visit ! 
 
SAUCES 
 
 191 
 
 SAUCES 
 
 SAUCES. See also Gravy, page 89. 
 
 SHALLOT. (1) Boil a few minc- 
 ed shallots in a little clear gravy and nearly 
 as much vinegar, add a few peppercorns and 
 a little salt. Strain, and serve it in a sauce- 
 tureen. 
 
 SHALLOT. (2) Take two spoon- 
 
 fhls of the liquor tlie meat was boiled in, two 
 spoonfuls of vinegar, two or three shallots cut 
 fine, and a little salt; put diese ingredients 
 into a saucepan, widi a bit of butter rolled 
 in flour; let it stew a little, and serve it up 
 with your mutton or beef. 
 
 SHARP, FOR VENISON. 
 
 Put into a silver, or very clean and vvell- 
 tinned saucepan, half a pint of the best 
 white wiue vinegar, and a quarter of a 
 pound of loaf-sugar pounded: set it over the 
 fire, and let it simmer gently ; skim it care- 
 fully ; pour it through a tamis or fine sieve, 
 and send it up in a basin. 
 
 Obs. — 'Some people like this better than 
 the sweet wine sauces. 
 
 - SHRIMP. (1) Pick some shrimps 
 
 nicely from the shell, put them into melted 
 butter, add a table-spoonful of lemon pickle 
 and vinegar; heat it. 
 
 SHRIMP. (2) Shell a pint of 
 
 shrimps; pick them clean, wash them, and 
 put diem into half a pint of good melted 
 butter. A pint of unshelled shrimps is about 
 enough for four persons. 
 
 06s, — Some stew the heads and shells 
 of the shrimps, (with or without a blade 
 of bruised mace), for a quarter of an hour, 
 and strain off tlie liquor to melt the butter 
 with, and add a little lemon-juice, cayenne, 
 and essence of anchovy, or soy, cavice, 
 &c. ; but the flavor of the shrimp is sp deli- 
 cate, that it will be overcome by any such 
 additions. 
 
 Mem. — If your shrimps are not quite 
 fresh, they will eat tough and thready, as 
 other stale fish do. 
 
 SORREL. (1) Pick and wash 
 
 some sorrel, put it into a stewpan with a lit- 
 tle water, stir it, to prevent its burning, and 
 when it is tender, drain and mince it finely; 
 fry it for half an hour in a stewpan with a 
 little buttfr, then dredge in a table-spoonful 
 of flour, moisten it with boiling cream, and 
 let it stew on a slow fire for an hour ; add a 
 little salt, and if too acid, a little sugar. 
 Before serving, diicken with the beaten yolks 
 of four eggs. 
 
 SORREL. (2) Pick and thor- 
 
 oughly wash two double handfuls of young 
 
 sorrel, well drain it from water, and then pOt 
 it into a stewpan, well covered with a bit of 
 butter, and let it stew verj' gently over a slow 
 fire ; when done, put it to drain on a sieve for 
 three minutes, then, with a wooden spoon, 
 rub it through a tammy into a dish ; put it 
 into a stewpan, with a bit of butter, stir- 
 ring it over the fire till thoroughly mixed; 
 you may add, if you choose, three spoon- 
 fuls of good consomme, and when it has 
 boiled for a few minutes, add to it half as 
 much cream sauce as there is sorrelj and if 
 necessary season with a little salt ; this is 
 pi-oper for a fricandeau of veal or entrees 
 of fish. 
 
 SUPERLATIVE. Claret, or 
 
 Port wine, and mushroom ketchup, a pint of 
 each. Haifa pint of walnut or odier pickle 
 liquor. Pounded anchovies, four ounces. 
 Fresh lemon-peel, pared very thin, an ounce. 
 Peeled and sliced eschalots, the same. 
 Scraped horseradish, ditto. Allspice, and 
 black pepper powdered, half an ounce each. 
 Cayenne, one drachm, or curry-powder, 
 three drachms. Celery-seed bruised, one 
 drachm. All avoirdupois weight. Put 
 these into a wide-mouthed bottle, stop it 
 close, shake it up eveiy day for a fortnight, 
 and strain it (when some think it improved 
 by the addition of a quarter of a pint of soy, 
 or thick browning), and you will have a 
 "delicious double relish." Dr. Kitchiner 
 says, this composition is one of the " chefs 
 d'cEuvre " of many experiments he has made, 
 for the purpose of enabling the good house- 
 wives of Great Britain to prepare their own 
 sauces: it is equally agreeable with fish, 
 game, poultry, or ragouts, &c., and as a 
 fair lady may make it herself, its relish will 
 lie not a little aun[inented, by the certainty 
 that all die ingredients are good and whole- 
 some. 
 
 Obs. — Under an infinity of circumstances, 
 a cook may be in want of the substances ne- 
 cessary to make sauce: the above composi- 
 tion of the several articles from which the 
 various gravies derive their flavor, will be 
 found a very admirable extemporaneous sub- 
 stitute. By mixing a large table-spoonful 
 with a quarter of a pint of thickened melted 
 butter, or broth, five minutes will finish a 
 boat of very relishing sauce, nearly equal to 
 drawn gravy, and as likely to put your lin- 
 gual nerves into good humor as any thing 1 
 know. 
 
 To make a boat of sauce for poultry, &c. 
 put a piece of butter about as big as an egg 
 into a stewpan, set it on die fire; when it 
 is melted, put to it a table-spoonful of flour; 
 stir it thoroughly together, and add to it 
 two table-spoonfuls of sauce, and by degrees 
 about half a pint of broth, or boiling water, 
 let it simmer gently over a slow fire for a 
 
SAUCES 
 
 192 
 
 SAUCES 
 
 few minutes, skim it and strain it through a 
 «ieve, and it is ready. 
 
 FOR STEAKS, CHOPS, OR 
 
 CUTLETS. Take your chops out of tlie 
 frying-pan; for a pound of meat keep a ta- 
 ble-spoonful of the fat in the pan, or put in 
 about an ounce of butter; put to it as much 
 jflour as will make it a paste; rub it well 
 together over the fire till they are a little 
 brown ; then add as much boiling water as 
 will reduce it to the thickness of good cream, 
 and a table-spoonful of mushroom or walnut 
 ketchup, or pickle, or browning; let it boil 
 together a few minutes, and pom* it through 
 a sieve to the steaks, &c. 
 
 Obs. — To the above is sometimes added 
 a sliced onion, or a minced eschalot, with 
 a table-spoonful of Port wine, or a little 
 eschalot wine. Garnish witli finely-scraped 
 horseradish, or pickled walnuts, gherkins, 
 &c. Some beef-eaters like chopped escha- 
 lots in one saucer, and horseradish grated 
 in vinegar, in another. Broiled mushrooms 
 are favorite relishes to beef steaks. 
 
 SWEET, FOR VENISON OR 
 
 HARE. Put some currant jelly into a 
 stewpan ; when it is melted, pour it into a 
 sauce-boat. 
 
 N. B. — Many send it to table without 
 melting. 
 
 This is a more salubrious relish than 
 either spice or salt, when the palate pro- 
 tests agiiinst animal food unless its flavor be 
 masked. Currant jelly is a good accom- 
 paniment to roasted or hashed meats. 
 
 SWEET. Put some cinnamon 
 
 into a saucepan, with as much water as 
 will cover it; set it on the fire, and when it 
 has boiled up once or twice, add two 
 spoonfuls of powder sugar, a (quarter of a pint 
 of white wme, and two bay-leaves; give 
 the whole one boil, and then strain it for 
 table. 
 
 TARTARE. Pound in a mor- 
 tar three hard yolks of eggs ; put them into 
 a basin, and add half a table-spoonful of 
 made mustard, and a little pepper and salt ; 
 pour to it by degrees, stirring it fast all the 
 while, about two wine-glassfuls of salad oil; 
 stir it together till it comes to a good thick- 
 ness. 
 
 N. B. — A little tarragon or chen'il minc- 
 ed very fine, and a little vinegar, may be 
 added. 
 
 TOMATA. See Tomata. 
 
 TOURNEE. To a little white 
 
 thickening add some stock driwn from the 
 trimmings of veal, poulti-y, and ham ; do 
 
 not make it too thick. Boil it slowly with 
 a few mushrooms, a bunch of parsley, and 
 some green onions ; strain and skim it well, 
 and use it as required. German sauce is 
 made as the sauce toumee, adding tlie beat- 
 en yolks of two or more eggs, and is used 
 for ragouts, fricassees, and any made dish 
 which may require a rich white sauce. 
 
 WHITE. Thicken half 
 
 pmt 
 
 of ci-eam with a litile flour and butter, four 
 shallots minced, a little mace and lemon- 
 peel; let it boil, and a little l^efore serving, 
 add a spoonful of white wine, the well-beaten 
 yolk of an egg, the scjueeze of a lemon, and 
 a tea-spoonful of anchovy liquor. This sauce 
 will answer for boiled fowls, or for a fricas- 
 
 WHITE, FOR FOWLS OR 
 
 TURKEY. Put on, in a quart of water, 
 the necks of fowls, a piece of the scrag-end 
 of a neck of mutton, two blades of mace, 
 twelve peppercorns, one anchovy, a small 
 head of celeiy, a slice from off" the end of a 
 lemon, and a bunch of sweet herbs ; cover it 
 closely, and let it boil till reduced to nearly 
 half a pint; strain, and put to it a quarter 
 of a pound of butter dredged with flour ; let 
 it boil for five minutes, and then add two 
 spoonfiils of pickled mushrooms. Mix with 
 a tea-cupful of cream, the well-beaten yolks 
 of two eggs, and some grated nutmeg; stir 
 this in gradually, and shake the pan over 
 the fire till it is all quite hot, but do not al- 
 low it to boil. 
 
 WHITE ITALIAN. 
 
 Peel 
 
 some mushrooms, jtnd throw them into a 
 little water and lemon-juice, to keep them 
 white. Put into a stewpan two-diirds of 
 sauce tournee, and one-third of good veal 
 stock, two table-spoonfuls of finely -chopped 
 mushrooms, and half a table-spoonful of 
 washed and chopped shallots ; let it boil till 
 well flavored, and then serve it. Tlie 
 mushrooms should be as white as possible. 
 
 WHITE SHARP. Boil with 
 
 a little taiTagon, or- tarragon vinegar, if the 
 tarragon is not to be had, four table-spoon- 
 fijls of white wine vinegar, and about twen- 
 ty peppercorns; reduce this to one-fourth, 
 and add it to six table-spoonfuls of sauce- 
 tournee, and two of good stock ; boil and 
 strain it; put it again on the fire, and thick- 
 en it with the beaten yolks of two eggs, a 
 small bit of butter, a little salt and cayenne. 
 Just before serving, stir in a spoonful of 
 cream. 
 
 WHITE, FOR BoiLKD Fowls. 
 
 Melt in a tea-cupful of milk a large table- 
 spoonful of butter kneaded in flour, beat up 
 
SAU 
 
 193 
 
 SAU 
 
 the yolk of an egg with a tea-spoonful of 
 cream, stir it into the butter, and heat it 
 over the fire, stirring it constantly; chop- 
 ped parsley improves tliis sauce. It also 
 may be made by melting the butter with 
 water, and mixing milk with the egg. 
 
 SAUCE, WINE, FOR VENISON OR 
 HARE. A quarter of a pint of claret or 
 Port wine, the same quantity of plain, un- 
 flavored mutton gravy, and a table-spoonful 
 of currant jelly: let it just boil up, and send 
 it to table in a sauce-boat. 
 
 SAUCE, WOW WOW, FOR Stewed 
 OR BouiLLi Beef. Chop some parsley- 
 lejives very fine; quarter two or- thiee pickled 
 cucumbers, or walnuts, and divide them into 
 small squares, and set them by ready: put 
 into a saucepan a bit of butler as big as an 
 egg; when it is melted, stir to it a table- 
 spoonful of fine flour, and about half a pint 
 of the broth in which die beef was boiled; 
 add a table-spoonful of vinegai-, the like 
 quantity of mushroom ketchup, or Port wine, 
 or both, and a tea-spoonful of made mustard ; 
 let it sinuner together till it is as thick as 
 you wish it; put in the parsley and pickles 
 to get warm, and pour it over the beef; or 
 i-ather send it up in a sauce-tureen. 
 
 06s. — If you think the above not sufficient- 
 ly piquante, add to it some capers, or a 
 minced eschalot, or one or two tea-spoonfuls 
 of eschalot wine, or essence of anchovy, or 
 basil, elder, or tarragon, or horseradish, oi' 
 burnet vinegar; or strew over the meat car- 
 rots and turnips cut into dice, minced capers, 
 walnuts, red cabbage, pickled cucumljers, or 
 Frencii beans, &c. 
 
 SAUSAGES, (1) Are composed of va- 
 rious kinds of meat, chopped exceedingly 
 small, with pounded spices, and aromatic 
 herbs, shred fine; these ingredients are put 
 into skins, or guts (thoroughly washed), and 
 tied into lengths of fiom two to five inches. 
 Some persons add to the mixture a glass 
 of Rhenish, Champagne, Madeira, or other 
 wine. 
 
 SAUSAGES, (2) Are best when quite 
 fresh made. Put a bit of butter, or dripping 
 into a clean frying-pan; as soon as it is 
 melted (before it gets hot) put in the sausa- 
 ges, and shake the pan for a minute, and 
 keep turning them (be careful not to break 
 or prick them in so doing) ; fry them over a 
 very slow fire till they are nicely browned 
 on all sides ; when they are done, lay them 
 on a hair sieve, placed before the fire for a 
 couple of minutes to drain the fat from them. 
 The secret of frying sausages is, to let them 
 get hot very gradually; they then will not 
 burst, if they ai-e not stale. The common 
 17 
 
 practice to prevent their bursting, istopi^id: 
 them with a fork; but this lets the gravy 
 out. You may froth them by rubbing them 
 with cold fresh butter, and lightly dredge 
 them with flour, and put them in a cheeee- 
 toaster or Dutch oven for a minute. Sonae 
 over-economical cooks insist that no butler 
 or lard, &c. is required, their owd fat 
 Ixiing sufficient to fry them : we have tried 
 it; the sausages were partially scorched, 
 and had that piebald appearance that all 
 filed things have when sufficient fat is not 
 allowed. 
 
 Obs. — Poached eggs, pease pudding, and 
 mashed potatoes, are agreeable accompani- 
 ments to sausages ; and sausages are as wel- 
 come boiled with roasted poultry or veal, or 
 boiled tripe; so are ready-dressed German 
 sausages; and a convenient, easily digestible, 
 and invigorating food for the aged, and those 
 whose teeth are defective. 
 
 N. B. — Sausages, when finely chopped, 
 are a delicate " bonne bouche;" and require 
 very little assistance fi'om the tcedi to render 
 them quite ready for the stomach. 
 
 SAUSAGES. (3) Take a pound of 
 (he inward fat of the pig, and half a pound 
 of lean pork ; pick tliem both from skin and 
 sinews, mince them very finely, grate a large 
 nutmeg, take its weight of pounded mace 
 and cloves, the largest proportion mace, the 
 weight of all of pepper, and twice the weight 
 of the spices of salt ; chop finely a few sage 
 leaves and a little lemon thyme ; mix all well 
 together wiUi two large table-spoonfuls of 
 grated bread and the yolk of an egg beaten. 
 It may be put into skins, or packed into a 
 jar and tied closely with bladder. When 
 to be used, moisten it with the yolk of an 
 egg beaten, make it up in the form of sausa- 
 ges, flour them, and fly them in butter. 
 
 SAUSAGES, BEEF AND OYSTER. 
 See Beef. 
 
 SAUSAGES, TO MAKE. Chop to- 
 gether two pounds of lean pork, and one 
 and a half of the inward fat of the pig, the 
 crumb of a penny loaf cut into slices and 
 soaked in cold water; season with pepper, 
 salt, grated nutmeg, lemon thyme, and a 
 little sage. Mix all the ingredients well, 
 and half fill the skins ; boil them half an 
 hour. 
 
 SAUSAGES, BOLOGNA. Take the 
 legs and shoulders of a pig, from which cut 
 all the lean, scrape it well, remove all the 
 sinews, and rub the meat well with a sea- 
 soning made of salt, pepper, coriander, 
 cloves, cinnamon, nutmeg, and bay-leaf. 
 When properly flavored, take some bacon, 
 lard, and leaf, and cut the whole uito dice ; 
 
SAT 
 
 194 
 
 SCO 
 
 Biix the fat and lean together, and put it in- 
 to ox-guts, tie up the ends, and lay the 
 sausages in a pan of water, with salt, and 
 saltpetre; cover the pan close, and leave it. 
 In a week's time take out the sausages 
 and drain them. Tie them between two 
 pieces of wood, hang them up to dry, and 
 smoke. When dry, untie tliera, and rub 
 each over with oil, and the ashes of vine- 
 twigs, mixed together. Keep diem in a 
 dry place. 
 
 SAUSAGES, ROYAL. Mince small 
 the meat of a partridge, a capon, or pullet, 
 a piece of gammon, and other bacon, and 
 a bit of leg of veal ; shred also some parsley, 
 chives, truflSes, and mushrooms; mix these 
 all together, and season with pepper, salt, 
 beaten spice, and garlic; bind the whole 
 with the yolks of six, the whites of two eggs, 
 and a little cream ; when thoroughly mixed, 
 roll the preparation into tliick pieces, which 
 wrap in very thin slices of fillet of veal, well 
 beaten with a rolling-pin; each sausage 
 should be about the thickness of a man's 
 wrist, and of proportionate length Line an 
 oval stewpan with slices of bacon and thin 
 beef steaks, put in the sausages, cover them 
 with beef steaks and bacon, shut the stew- 
 pan very close, and set it on a moderate 
 fire, put hot embers on the lid, and let it 
 stand ten or twelve hours ; then take it off, 
 and when cold, take out the sausages care- 
 fully, I'emove the veal, and all the fat, with 
 a a^trp knife cut them into slices, and serve 
 cold. 
 
 SAUSAGES, SPREADBURY'S. Cut 
 from the leg or griskin one pound of nice 
 lean pork, free from sinews and skin, mince 
 it very finely : mince one pound of the best 
 beef suet, mix it with the pork, and pound 
 it as finely as possible in a marble mortar ; 
 add two large table-spooiifuls of stale bread 
 rubbed through a sieve, also a good deal of 
 pepper, salt, and a little finely-chopped sage, 
 mix all together with the yolks of two eggs 
 beaten up. It will keep for sometime, if 
 put into an earthen jar and pressed closely 
 down. When it is to be used, make it into 
 rolls, and as thick as common sausages, and 
 tluree or four inches long: dust them with a 
 little flour; have ready a frying-pan made 
 very hot, and fry them without any, thing 
 but their own fat, till tliey are done quite 
 tlirough, taking care not to make them too 
 dry. By breaking one of them, the cook 
 will know whetlier they are sufficiently 
 done. They may be fried in lard or fresn 
 beef di'ipping. 
 
 SAVORY CABBAGE. See Cabbage, 
 
 SAVOY BISCUITS. To he made as 
 
 drop biscuits, omitting the caraways, and 
 quarter of a pound of flour: put it into the 
 biscuit-funnel, and lay it out about the length 
 and size of your finger, on common shop 
 paper ; strew sugar over, and bake them in 
 a hot oven ; when cold, wet the backs of tlie 
 paper with a paste-brush and water: when 
 they have lain sometime, take them carefully 
 off, and place tiiem back to back. 
 
 SAVOYS, Are boiled in the same man- 
 ner as cabbages; quarter them when you 
 send them to table. 
 
 SCOTCH BARLEY BROTH ;~a good 
 and substantial dinner for sixpence per 
 head. Wash three-quarters of a pound of 
 Scotch barley in a little cold water ; put it 
 in a soup-pot with a shin or leg of beef, of 
 alx>ut ten pounds weight, sawed into four 
 pieces (tell the butcher to do this for you) ; 
 cover it well with cold water ; set it on the 
 fire: when it boils skim it very clean, and 
 put in two onions of about three ounces 
 weight each ; set it by the side of the fire to 
 simmer very gently about two hours; then 
 skim all the fat clean off, and put in two heads 
 of celery, and a large turnip cut into small 
 squares, ; season it with salt, and let it boil 
 an hour and a half longer, and it is ready: 
 take out the meat (carefully with a slice, 
 and cover it up, and set it by the fire to keep 
 warm), and skim the broth well before you 
 put it in the tureen. 
 
 SCOTCH BROSE. This flworite Scotch 
 dish is generally made with the liquor meat 
 has been boiled in. Put half a pint of oat- 
 meal into a porringer with a little salt, if 
 there be not enough in the broth, of which 
 add as much as will mix it to the consistence 
 of kisty pudding, or a little thicker ; lastly, 
 take a little of the fat that swims on the 
 broth, and put it on the crowdie, and eat it 
 in the same way as hasty-pudding. 
 
 Obs. — This Scotsman's dish is easily pre- 
 pared at very little expense, and is pleasant- 
 tasted and nutritious. 
 
 N. B. — For various methods of making 
 and flavoring oatmeal gruel, see Gruel. 
 
 SCOTCH BURGOO. This humble dish 
 forms no contemptible article of food. It 
 possesses the grand qualities of salubrity, 
 pleasantness, and cheapness. It is, in fact, 
 a sort of oatmeal hasty pudding without 
 milk ; much used by those patterns of com- 
 bined industi-y, frugality, and temperance, 
 the Scottish peasanti^; and this, among 
 other examples of the economical Scotch, is 
 well woilhy of being occasionally adopted 
 by all who have large families and small in- 
 comes. It is made in tlie following easy and 
 expeditious manner: — To a quart of oatmeal 
 
SCO 
 
 195 
 
 SHE 
 
 add gradually two quarts of water, so that 
 the whole may smoothly mix : tlien stirring 
 it continually over the fire, boil it together for 
 a quarter of an hour ; after which, take it up, 
 and stir in a little salt and butter, with or 
 without pepper. This quantity will serve a 
 family of five or six persons for a moderate 
 meal. 
 
 SCOTS COLLOPS. Cut some very 
 thin slices of beef; rub with butter the bot- 
 tom of an iron stewpan that has a cover to 
 fit quite closely ; put in the meat, some pep- 
 per, and a little salt, a large onion, and an 
 apple minced very small. Cover the stew- 
 pan, and let it simmer till the meat is very 
 tender. Serve it hot. 
 
 SCOTCH DUMPLING. Make a paste 
 with some oatmeal and butter, form it into 
 a dumpling, and place a haddock's liver 
 in tlie middle, well seasoned with pepper 
 and saltj it should be boiled in a cloth. 
 
 SCOTCH HAGGIS. Make the haggis- 
 bag perfectly clean; parboil the draught; 
 boil the liver very well, so as it will grate ; 
 dry the meal before tlie fire; mince the 
 draught and a pretty large piece of beef veiy 
 small; grate about half of the liver; mince 
 plenty of the suet and some onions small ; 
 mix all these materials very well together, 
 with a handful or two of die dried meal; 
 spread them on the table, and season them 
 properly with salt and mixed spices; take 
 any of the scraps of beef that are left from 
 mincing, and^ome of the water that boiled 
 the draught, and make about a choppin (i. e. 
 a quart) of good stock of it ; then put all the 
 haggis meat into tlie bag, and that broth in 
 it ; dien sew up the bag ; but be sure to put 
 out all the wind before you sew it quite close. 
 If you tliink the bag is thin, you may put 
 it in a cloth. If it is a large haggis, it will 
 take at least two hours boiling. 
 
 N. B. — The above we copied verbatim 
 from Mrs. Maciver, a celebrated Caledo- 
 nian professor of the culinary art, who 
 taught, and published a book of cookery, at 
 Edinburgh, A. D. 1787. 
 
 SCOTS KALE. Put bailey on in cold 
 water, and when it boils take oflf the scum, 
 put in any piece of fresh beef, and a little 
 salt; let it boil three hours, have ready a 
 cullender full of kale, cut small and boil them 
 till tender. Two or three leeks may be ad- 
 ded with the greens, if the flavor is approved 
 of. This broth is also made with salted 
 beef, which must be put in water over night 
 to soak. 
 
 SCOTCH SHORT BREAD. Take 
 two pounds of flour, dry, and sift it well; 
 
 then mix with it a pound of powder-sugar, 
 three ounces of candied citron and orange- 
 peel cut into dice, and half a pound of cara- 
 way comfits ; put half a pound of butter into a 
 saucepan, set it on the fire, and when quite 
 melted, mix it with the flour, &c. ; the paste 
 being nicely made, roll it out to the thicloiess 
 of half an inch, cut it into cakes, lay tliem 
 on white paper, prick and bake them ; they 
 should be of a pale color. 
 
 SEA CALE, BOILED. Let it lie some- 
 time in cold water, then clean and trim it 
 nicely, cutting off any part that may be at 
 all green, and parting it as little as possi- 
 ble. Put it on in boiling water,\vith a lit- 
 tle salt. Let it boil half an hour ; drain off 
 the water. Pare the crust off a slice of 
 toasted bread, lay it in the dish, pour over 
 it a little melted butter, and serve the cafe 
 upon it. 
 
 SEED CAKE. Sift two and a half 
 pounds of flour, with half a pound of good 
 white or loaf sugar, pounded into a pan or 
 bowl ; make a cavity in the centre, and pour 
 in half a pint of lukewarm milk, and a ta- 
 ble-spoonful of thick yeast; mix the milk 
 and yeast with enough flour to make it as 
 thick as cream (ihis is called setting a 
 sponge) ; set it by in a warm place for one 
 hour; in the meantime, melt to an oil half a 
 pound of fresh butter, and add it to the other 
 ingredients, with one ounce of caraway- 
 seeds, and enough of milk to make it of a 
 middling stfffness ; line a hoop with paper, 
 well rubbed over with butter; put in the 
 mixture ; set it sometime to prove in a stove, 
 or before the fire, and bake it on a plate 
 about an hour, in rather a hot oven ; when 
 done, rub the top over with a paste-brush 
 dipped in milk. 
 
 SHEEP'S KIDNEYS, BROILED. 
 
 Wash and dry some nice kidneys, cut them 
 in half and with a small skewer keep them 
 open in imitation of two shells, season them 
 vyith salt and pepper, and dip them into a 
 little fresh melted butter. Broil first the side 
 that is cut, and be careful not to let the gravy 
 drop in taking them off the gridiron. Serve 
 them in a hot dish, with finely-chopped pars- 
 ley mixed with melted butter, the juice of a 
 lemon, pepper and salt, putting a little upon 
 each kidney. This is an excellent break- 
 fast for a sportsman. 
 
 SHEEP'S LIVER. Cut it into slices; 
 wash it well, and dry it in a cloth; flour 
 and season it with pepper and salt, and fry 
 it in butter, with a good deal of minced 
 parsley and an onion ; add a sufficient quan- 
 tity of gravy or hot water to make a sauce, 
 and let it stew a few minutes. It may be 
 
SHE 
 
 1^6 
 
 SHR 
 
 fried quite plain, and when cut into slices, 
 should be washed in milk and water. 
 
 SHEEP'S MI^^CE. Wash the heart 
 and lights veiy clean ; boil them about half, 
 an hour ; mince tiiem finely ; mix a piece of 
 butter with flour, brown it in a stewpan, and 
 add some of the liquor tlie heart and lights 
 were boiled in. Put in the mince with some 
 chopped onion ; season with salt and jiepper, 
 cover it closely, and let it stew half an hour. 
 Before serving, add a table-spoonful of mush- 
 room ketchup. 
 
 SHEEP'S TONGUES, BROILED. 
 Having pat'boiled the tongues in a little 
 stock, split each, give them a few turns in 
 some melted bacon, strewing over them salt, 
 pepper, shred parsley, and bread crumljs; 
 when well covered with the latter, lay them 
 on a gridiron, and broil tliem slowly. 
 
 SHEEP'S TONGUES PIE. Line a 
 
 diah with some good puff paste, and lay at 
 the bottom of the dish some good forcemeat, 
 made of roasted poultry, suet, parsley chop- 
 ped, mushrooms, pepper and salt, and a few 
 fine spices; upon this place the tongues cut 
 in two, and upon them a good slice of ham, 
 a little butter, and a few slices of bacon; 
 put on the cover and bake it ; when done, 
 take out tlie bacon and ham, skim off all the 
 fat, and pour on it what sauce you please. 
 
 SHEEP'S TONGUES ROASTED. 
 
 Take half a dozen sheep's tongues, and hav- 
 ing properly prepared them, lard them with 
 small lardons, tie them to a skewer, wrap 
 a buttered paper round, and fasten them on 
 a spit, and roast tliem before a moderate 
 fire ; a little Ijefore they are done, take off 
 the paper, baste the tongues with butter, 
 and make them of a nice color. Serve witli 
 whatever sauce you may prefer. 
 
 SHEEP'S TROTTERS STUFFED. 
 Boil the feet in good stock till the bones 
 will come out with ease ; fill the space lefl 
 by them with a good fowl or chicken farce; 
 dip them in lard, bread them well, and bake 
 in a moderate oven. The space left by tlie 
 bones is sometimes filled up with a bit of 
 fi"ied bread ; in diis case the feet are only 
 previously boiled, and then served with 
 ; cream sauce. 
 
 . SHEEP'S TROTTERS FRIED. Oean 
 some sheep's trottei-s nicely, scald and wash 
 them in hot water ; stew them in that sauce 
 in which calf's head plain is boiled, 
 and bone them. Fry, Ijut not till brown, 
 in a little butter, some carrots, onions, a 
 little parsley roots, all cut small, thyme, a 
 shallot, a small bay leaf, and a clove. When 
 
 they l^egin to color, moisten them with wa- 
 ter and vinegar mixed in ecjual parts, and let 
 it all stew till the vegetables are quite ten- 
 der ; season with pepper and salt, and strain 
 it through a silk sieve over the sheep's trot- 
 ters, then fry the trotters in this batter; put 
 nearly four table-spoonfuls of flour into an 
 earthen pan, with a little salt, a little olive 
 oil, and as much good beer or water as will 
 moisten the paste; when well mixed, add 
 the beaten whites of two eggs, dip the trot- 
 tei-s into this, and fry them instantly. The 
 marinade cuile, or pickle, into which the 
 trotteis are laid, and the paste in whi(;h they 
 are fried, may be used for beef, and other 
 meats. I'he same receipt may be followed 
 exactly for calf's feet. 
 
 SHERBET. This is a delicious bever- 
 age, composed of cream, mixed with various 
 articles, such as almonds, tea, pistachios, 
 coffee, chocolate, &c., and sugar, and then 
 iced. Sherliet may also be made with the 
 juice of various fruits, sweetened to the 
 taste. When the liquid is sufficiently lim- 
 pid and cold, pour it into a silver, or tin 
 sorbetiere, and ice it as usual. 
 
 SHERBET, TURKISH. Wash a small 
 fore quarter of veal, put it on the fire with 
 nine pints of water; skim it well, and let it 
 boil till reduced to two pints; run it through 
 a sieve, and when cold, add to it a pint and 
 a half of clear lemon-juice, and two pounds 
 of loaf sugar which has been made into a 
 sirup with a pint and a half of water, and 
 cleared with the white of an egg. It is 
 served in glass mugs for a dessert table, or 
 offered at any other time as a refreshment. 
 
 SHRUB. (1) One measure of lemon- 
 juice is allowed to five of rum, and to every 
 gallon of the mixture, six pounds of loaf su- 
 gar, which is to be melted in water, and the 
 whole strained tlirough flannel. 
 
 SHRUB. (2) To one part of lemon- 
 juice, three of good orange are allowed, 
 and, to every pint of juice, a pound and a 
 half of very finely-pounded loaf sugar ; these 
 being well mixed, it is put into a cask, and 
 one tjuart of the best rum added to each pint 
 of the juice ; the whole to be shaken three 
 times a-day for a fortnight, or longer, if tlie 
 cask be large. It is then allowed to stand 
 to fine for a month, or till it lie sufficiently 
 clear to bottle. The dregs may be made 
 into excellent milk punch, by pouring wann, 
 but not boiling, milk on them, allowing three 
 parts of milk to one of dregs; after being 
 well mixed, it is fit for use. 
 
 SHRUB. (3) Put a quart of Seville 
 orange-juice to a gallon of rum, with three 
 
SIR 
 
 197 
 
 SKA 
 
 pounds of lump sugar, and a handful of the 
 peel pkred extremely thin ; let it stand in the 
 cask for three months, then filter it through 
 a clodi, and bottle it. 
 
 SHRUB. (4) Take a quart of orange- 
 juice, strain it, put to it two pounds of lump j 
 sugar, four quarts and one pint of rum ; put j 
 half the peels of the oranges into the rum, \ 
 and let it stand one nigfit, then mix the rum I 
 with the orange-juice and sugar, put it into | 
 a vessel which has a spigot, shake it four or j 
 five times daily till the sugar be all dissolved ; | 
 when it is clear, which may be in about a I 
 fortnight, bottle it off for use. If the or- i 
 anges are very ripe, a pound and a half of 
 sugar is sufficient. 
 
 SHRUB, LEMON OR ORANGE. The 
 
 rind of the lemons or oranges being grated 
 ofl', they are to be squeezed, and two pounds 
 of finely-pounded loaf sugar is to be added \ 
 to every pint of the strained juice ; when the j 
 sugar is quite dissolved, two pints of rum ' 
 are allowed to every pint of sirup ; the whole i 
 is to be well mixed in a cask, and allowed 
 to stand five or six weeks, and then drawn ! 
 oflf. ! 
 
 SHRUB, WHITE CURRANT. The 
 
 currants are to be bruised and put into a 
 bag to drip; three-quarters of a pound of 
 loaf sugar is to be dissolved in two quarts 
 of juice, and a quart of rum being added, it 
 is to be bottled for use. 
 
 SIRUP OF CURRANTS, RASPBER- 
 RIES, OR Mulberries. Pick the fruit 
 from the stalks ; squeeze the juice, and let it 
 stand ten days or a fortnight, or till the fer- 
 mentation ceases, which may be known by 
 the scum cracking; carefully take off the 
 scum, and pour the juice gently into a fresh 
 vessel; let it stand twenty-four hours, and 
 again pour it off, to one pound of pounded 
 loaf sugar allow thirteen ounces of the juice, 
 put it into a preserving-pan, and when it be- 
 gins to boil, strain it through a jelly-bag, 
 and bottle it when cold. Burie pears 6oiled, 
 in a little of the sirup, are beautiful.. 
 
 SIRUP OF ORANGE OR LEMON 
 PEEL. Of fresh outer rind of Seville orange 
 or lemon peel, three ounces, ajpothecaries' 
 weight ; boiling water a pint and a half; in- 
 fuse them for a night in a close vessel ; then 
 strain the liquor: let it stand to settle; and 
 having poured it off clear from the sediment, 
 dissolve in it two pounds of double-refined 
 loaf sugar, and make it into a sirap with a 
 gentle heat. 
 
 Obs. — In making this sirup, if the sugar 
 be dissolved in the infusion w ith as gentle a 
 heat as possible, to prevent the exlialation 
 * 17* 
 
 of. the volatile parts of the peel, this sirup 
 will possess a great share of the tine flavor 
 of tlie orange or lemon ped. 
 
 SIRUP, CLARIFIED. Break into bits 
 two pounds (avoirdupois) of double-refined 
 lump sugar, and put it into a clean stewpan 
 (that is well tinned), with a pint of cold 
 spring water; when the sugar is dissolved, 
 set it over a moderate fire: beat about half 
 the white of an egg, put it to the sugar be- 
 fore it gets waiTO, and stir it well together. 
 Watch it; and when it boils take off the 
 scum ; keep it boiling till no scum rises, and 
 it is perfectly clear; then run it through a 
 clean napkin: put it into a close-stopped 
 bottle; it will keep for months, and is an 
 elegant article on the sideboard for sweet- 
 ening. 
 
 Obs. — The proportion of sugar ordered in 
 the above sirup is a quarter pound more than 
 that directed in the Pharmacopoeia of the 
 London College of Physicians. The quanti- 
 ty of sugar must be as much as the liquor is 
 capable of keeping dissolved when cold, or 
 it will ferment, and quickly spoil: if kept in 
 a temperate degree of heat, the above pro- 
 portion of sugar may be considered the basis 
 of all sirups. 
 
 SKATE, FRIED. After you have 
 cleaned the fish, divide it into fillets; dry 
 them on a clean cloth ; beat the yolk and 
 white of an egg thoroughly together, dip tlie 
 fish in this, and then in fine bread-crumbs; 
 fi-y it in hot lard or drippings till it is of a 
 delicate brown color; lay it on a hair sieve 
 to drain; garnish with crisp parsley, and 
 some like caper sauce, with an anchovy 
 in it. 
 
 SKATE, TO CRIMP. Skin the skate 
 on both sides, cut it an inch and a half 
 broad, and as long as the skate, roll up each 
 piece and tie it with a thread ; lay them for 
 three hours in siilt and water, and a little 
 vinegar ; boil them fifteen minutes in boiling 
 salt and water ; before serving, cut off the 
 threads. Sauces: — shrimp, butter and an- 
 chovy. When the skate are very small, they 
 are preferable broiled. 
 
 SKATE, LARGE, DRESSED LIKE 
 
 Veal Cutlets. Crimp, or cut the skate 
 in square pieces, roll them in beaten eggs, 
 and then in grated bread mixed with chop- 
 ped parsley, pepper, and salt ; fry them of^a 
 nice brown colo)-, and serve witli a rich 
 brown gravy. 
 
 SKATE, STEWED. Skin the skate, 
 cut it into sqtiare pieces, and l)rown it with 
 butter in a frying-pan ; make a rich sauce 
 with the skin and parings, to be boiled Iq 
 
SNI 
 
 198 
 
 SOL 
 
 three pints of water, with an onion, some 
 pepper and salt; strain and thicken it with 
 a little butter mixed with flour, add some 
 very finely chopped parsley, and chives; of 
 hot vinegar, mushroom ketchup, and Harvey 
 eauce, a table-spoonful each, and a little 
 cayenne; boil it up and put it in tlie skate 
 five minutes before serving it. 
 
 SKATE, Is very good when in good 
 season, but no fish so bad when it is other- 
 wise: those persons that like it firm and diy, 
 should have it crimped ; but those that like 
 it tender, should have it plain, and eat it 
 not earlier than the second day, and if cold 
 weather, three or four days old it is better: 
 it cannot be kept too long, if perfectly sweet. 
 Young skate eats very tine crimped and 
 fried. 
 
 SKATE, SMALL, TO FRY. Clean, 
 wash, and lay them one or two hours in vin- 
 egar, or vinegar and water, with a sliced 
 onion, some chopped parsley, pepper, and 
 salt; drain and di-y them well, dip them into 
 beaten eggs, dredge them with flour, and fry 
 tliem of a fine brown color ; garnish them 
 with fried parsley. Sauces ; — melted butter, 
 and shrimp sauce. 
 
 SKIRRETS. Wash and scrape them, 
 put them on in boiling water, and boil them 
 for ten minutes; di*y them in a cullender, 
 and fiy them brown in a little butter. They 
 are sometimes plain boiled, and a little mel- 
 ted butter poured over them. 
 
 SMELTS, TO FRY. This delicate lit- 
 tle fish, when perfectly fresh, must not be 
 washed, but wiped with a clean cloth, and 
 dredged with flour, or brushed over with a 
 feather, dipped into the yolk of an egg beat- 
 en, and rolled in a plate of finely-grated 
 bread-crumbs, and fried in boiling dripping, 
 or fresh lard. They vaiy in size, and some 
 will be done sooner than others. When of 
 a clear yellow brown, take them out careful- 
 ly, and lay them before the fire upon the back 
 of a sieve to drain and keep hot. Dish 
 them, heads and tails alternately; garnish 
 with fried parsley. Sauce — melted butter. 
 They may also l)e broiled. 
 
 SMELTS, ITALIAN. Boil your smelts 
 with a large glass of white wine, half a glass 
 of water, two spoonfuls of oil, two slices of 
 lemon, a pinch of salt, and a pinch of fennel. 
 When sufficiently done, make a liaison with 
 yolks of eggs, and shred chervil, and serve 
 your fish witii its own sauce. 
 
 SNIPES. When the snipes have \>een 
 picked, they must be singed over a charco:il 
 fire; in trussing them press tlie legs close to 
 
 the side, and pierce the beak through them; 
 tie a slice of bacon over each bird, run a long 
 iron skewer through the sides, and tie ihem 
 to the spit ; in the meantime cut two or three 
 slices of bread, according to the number of 
 the birds, fry them of a fine brown color in 
 butter; put the birds to roast, and put the 
 fried bread in a dish under them, to receive 
 the inside, which will drop after they have 
 hung a few minutes^ just before they are 
 roasted sufficiently, cut off the bacon, that 
 they may take color. Serve tliem on the 
 dish with the bread under them, and plenty 
 of good gravy. Some prefer eating tiiem 
 with butter only, considering that gravy 
 takes off from the tine flavor of the bird. 
 They should be carved the same as fowls or 
 pigeons, and the head should be optnied, a.s 
 some are fond of the brains. Snipes are 
 generally dressed in the same manner as 
 woodcocks. 
 
 SNOW-BALLS, BOILED IN BUT- 
 TER. Mix with six well-beaten eggs one 
 pint and a half of sour cream, and add by 
 degrees as much flour as will make the bat- 
 ter thick enough for the spoon to stand in 
 it; sweeten it with brown sugar, and put 
 in a few cardamons; stir into this mixture 
 half a pint of l)eer, beat it all well to- 
 gether, and drop it with a dessert-spoon 
 into some boiling lard, or butter. Drain 
 them upon a towel before the fire, and serve 
 them in a napkin, with sugar sifted over 
 them. 
 
 SNOW CHEESE. Sweeten, with poun- 
 ded loaf sugar, a quart of good cream ; add 
 the strained juice of three lemons, and one 
 ounce and a half of blanched sweet almonds 
 pounded, and two table-spoonfuls of rose- 
 water, and one of ratafia. Beat it with a 
 whisk till thick, and put it into a shape or 
 sieve with a bit of muslin laid into it, and 
 in twelve hours take it out. 
 
 SODA WATER. Tartaric acid half 
 an ounce, arated soda, half an ounce. Have 
 two tumblers about one-third full of water, 
 put a tea-spoonful of the soda into one glass, 
 and the same of the acid into the other; 
 when dissolved, mix them together, and 
 drink it immediately. The two sorts of salts 
 must be kept in separate bottles, and should 
 Ije bought ready powdered. 
 
 SOLES OR OTHER FISH, TO FRY. 
 
 An hour befoi-e you intend to dress them, 
 wash tliem thoroughly, and wrap them in a 
 clean cloth, to make them perfectly dry, or 
 tlie bread-crumbs will not stick to them. 
 
 Prepaie some bread-crumbs, by lubbing 
 some stale bread through a colander; or, 
 if you wish the fish to apj)ear veiy delicate 
 
SOL 
 
 199 
 
 SOL 
 
 and highly finished, through a hair sieve ; or 
 use biscuit powder. 
 
 Beat the yolk and white of an egg well 
 together, on a plate, with a fork ; flour your 
 fish, to absorb any moisture that may remain, 
 and wipe it off with a clean cloth; dip them 
 in the egg on both sides all over, or, what 
 is better, egg them widi a paste-brush ; put 
 die egg on in an even degree over the whole 
 fish, or the bread crumbs will not stick 
 to it even, and the uneven part will burn 
 to the pan. Strew die bread crumbs all 
 over the fish, so that diey cover every part, 
 take up the fish by the head, and shake off 
 the loose cnunbs. The fish is now ready 
 for die frying-pan, into which put a quart 
 or more of fresh sweet olive oil, or clar- 
 ified butter, dripping, lard, or clarified drip- 
 pings; lie sure that they are quite sweet 
 and perfectly clean (die fat ought to cover 
 the fish): what we here order is for soles 
 about ten inches long; if larger, cut them 
 into pieces the proper size to help at table ; 
 this will save much time and trouble to the 
 cirver: when you send them to table, lay 
 them in the same form they were before ihey 
 were cut, and you may strew a little curled 
 parsley over them: tlwy are much easier 
 managed in die frying-pan, and require less 
 fat: fry the thick part a few minutes before 
 you put in the thin, you can by this means 
 only fiy the thick part enough, widiout fry- 
 ing' the thin too much. Very large soles 
 should he boiled, or fried in fillets. Soles 
 cut in pieces, crossways, about the size of a 
 nmelt, make a very pretty garnish for stewed 
 fish and boiled fish. 
 
 Set die frying-pan over a sharp and clear 
 fire; watch it, skim it with an egg-slice, and 
 when it boils, i. e. when it has done bub- 
 bling, and die smoke jnst l)egins to rise from 
 die surface, put in the fish: if the fat is not 
 extremely hot, it is impossible to fry fish 
 of a good color, or to keep them firm and 
 crisp. 
 
 The best way to ascertain tlie heat of the 
 fat, is to try it wilh a bit of bread as big as 
 a nut ; if U is quite hot enough, die bread 
 will brown immediately. Put in the fish, 
 and it will l>e ciisp and brown on die side 
 next the fire, in about four or five minutes; 
 to turn it, stick a two-pronged fork near the 
 head, and support the tail with a fisli-slice, 
 and fry the odier side nearly the same length 
 of time. Fry one sole at a time, except the 
 pan is very large, and yon have plenty of fat. ] 
 
 When the fish are fried, lay them on a soft | 
 cloth (old table-clodis are best), near enough I 
 the fire to keep them warm; turn them j 
 every two or three minutes, till they are 
 quite dry on both sides ; this common cooks | 
 commonly neglect. It will take ten or fifteen ] 
 minutes, if die fat you fried diem in was not ; 
 hot enough; when it is, they want very little 
 
 drying. When soles are fi-ied, they will 
 keep very good in a dry place for three or 
 four days ; warm them by hanging them on 
 the hooks in a Dutch oven, letting them heat 
 very gradually, by putting it some distance 
 from the fire for about twenty minutes, or in 
 good gravy, as eels, Wiggy's way. 
 
 Obs. — There are several general rules in 
 this receipt which apply to all fried fish : 
 we have been very particular and minute in 
 our directions; for, although a fried sole is 
 so frequent and favorite a dish, it is very 
 seldom brought to table in perfection. 
 
 SOLES, TO BOIL. A fine, fresh, thick 
 sole is almost as good eating as a turbot. 
 Wasli and clean it nicely; put it into a fish- 
 kettle with a handful of salt, and as much 
 cold water as will cover it ; set it on the side 
 of the fire, take off the scum as it rises, and 
 let it boil gently; about five minutes (accord- 
 ing to its size) will be long enough, unless 
 it be very large. Send it up on a fish-drain- 
 er, garnished with slices of lemon and sprigs 
 of curled parsley, or nicely-fried smelts, or 
 oysters. 
 
 Obs. — Slices of lemon are a universally 
 acceptable garnish with either fried or broil- 
 ed fish : a few sprigs of crisp parsley may be 
 added, if you wish to make it look very 
 smart ; and parsley, or fennel and butter, are 
 excellent sauces, or chervil sauce, or anchovy. 
 
 SOLES, TO DRESS MAIGRE. Put 
 
 the fish into a stewpan, with a large onion, 
 four cloves, fifteen berries of allspice, and the 
 same of black pepper; just cover them with 
 boiling water, set it where they will simmer 
 gently for ten or twenty minutes, according 
 to the size of the fish; strain off the liquor 
 in another stewpan, leaving the fish to keep 
 warm till the sauce is ready. Rub together 
 on a plate as much flour and butter as will 
 make the sauce as diick as a double cream. 
 Each pint of sauce season with a glass of 
 wine, half as much mushroom ketchup, a tea- 
 spoonfiil of essence of anchovy, and a few 
 grains of cayenne; let it boil a few minutes, 
 put the fish on a deep dish, sti'ain the gravy 
 over it; garnish it widi sippets of bre:id 
 toasted or hied. 
 
 SOLE, Carp, Trout, Perch. Eel, 
 OR Flounder, to stew. When the fish 
 has been properly washed, lay it in a stew- 
 pan, with half a pint of cbret or Port wine, 
 and a (juart of good gravy, a large onion, a 
 dozen lierries of black p<?pper, the same of 
 allspice, and a few cloves, or a bit of mace: 
 cover the fish-kettle close, and let it stew 
 gently for ten or twenty minutes, according 
 to the thickness of the fish : take die fish up, 
 lay it on a hot dish, cover it up, and thicken 
 die liquor it was stewed in with a little 
 
sou 
 
 200 
 
 SOUPS 
 
 flour, and season it with pepper, salt, essence 
 of anchovy, mushroom ketchup, and a little 
 Chili vinegar; when it has boiled ten min- 
 utes, strain it through a tamis, and pour it 
 over the fish: if there is more sauce than 
 the dish will hold, send the rest up in a boat. 
 The river trout comes into season in April, 
 and continues till July; it is a delicious fish. 
 
 SORREL, TO STEW. Strip the leaves 
 from the stalks, wash them well, scald tliem 
 in boiling water in a silver saucepan, or in 
 an earlhern pipkin ; strain and stew them in 
 a little gravy till tender. Serve with hard- 
 boiled eggs cut in quartera. 
 
 SORREL, IN GRAVY. Mince, and 
 put it into a saucepan, with butter, bacon, 
 parsley, and scallions ; add a glass of con- 
 somme; set it over a moderate fire, and 
 when quite soft, put to it some fowl gravy, or 
 veal blond. Make the sauce thick, and do 
 not let it boil, cover the sorrel when served. 
 
 SORREL OMELET. Pick, wash, and 
 blanch some sorrel, cut it in pieces, and 
 fi-y it lightly in a little butter, with shred 
 parsley and. scallions; then put tlie sorrel 
 mto a saucepan, with a little cream ; season, 
 and let it boil slowly; in the meantime make 
 an omelet in the usual way, lay it on a dish, 
 thicken the sorrel with the yolks of two eggs, 
 pour it on the omelet, and serve it very hot. 
 
 SOUFFLET, APPLE. Prepare apples 
 as for baking in a pudding, put them into a 
 deep dish, and lay upon the top, about an 
 inch and a half thick, rice boiled in new 
 milk with sugar; beat to a stiff froth the 
 whiles of two or three eggs, with a little 
 sifted loaf sugar, lay it upon the rice, and 
 bake it in an oven a light brown. Serve it 
 instantly when done. 
 
 SOUFFLET, RICH. Soak in white 
 wine and a little brandy, sweetened with su- 
 gar, some slices of sponge cake ; put them 
 into a deep dish, and pour over them a rich 
 custard ; beat to a stiff froth the whites of 
 three or four eggs, and with a table-spoon 
 lay it over the top in heaps to look rough ; 
 brown it in a Dutch oven, and serve quickly. 
 
 SOUFFLET, RICE. Soak in half a 
 pint of milk, for an hour, one ounce of rice, 
 and the peel of a lemon cut thin; put it into 
 a saucepan, with a little salt, and add by 
 degrees a pint of new milk, and a bit of but- 
 ter the size of a walnut; stir it till it boil, 
 and for five minutes after. When cool, add 
 the yolks of six eggs, beaten with two table- 
 spoonfuls of pounded loaf sugar, and stir in 
 the well-l)eaten whites of the eggs, and dress 
 the soufflet in the dish like a pyramid. 
 
 Bake it in an oven. It may l)e made with 
 two table-spoonfuls of potato flour, which 
 mix with a little milk, and a little salt, and 
 then thicken it over the fire with more milk ; 
 put a little orange-flower water, or any other 
 perfume ; whilst in the oven it may l)e glazed 
 with sifted loaf sugar. 
 
 SOUFFLET, ORANGE. Mix with a 
 table-spoonful of flour a pint of cream, put 
 it into a saucepan, with two spoonfuls of 
 rose-water, a little cinnamon and orange- 
 peel; stir it till it boil; strain and sweeten 
 it, and when cold, mix in two table-spoon- 
 fuls of orange marmalade; beat well six 
 eggs with a glass of brandy; mix all togeth- 
 er; put it in a buttered shape; place it in 
 a saucepan of boiling water, over a stove ; 
 let it boil one hour and a quarter without a 
 cloth or cover over it. 
 
 SOUPS. Every utensil employed in a 
 kitchen must lie kept scrupulously clean, 
 and a cook ought to take esf)ecial care that 
 all her saucepans be in good order. Brass 
 pans are prefei-able for preserving in, and 
 double block tin are the best sort in use for 
 every other piupose; their covers, should be 
 made to fit closely, and die tinning always 
 renewed as soon as it is observed to be 
 wearing ofi". While new, they may be 
 easily kept clean by washing them regularly 
 in hot waler, and rubbing on them when 
 quite dry, a little Avhiting with leather or 
 flannel. After long use, they will require 
 occasional scouring with fine sand ; and be- 
 fore they are used, they ought always to be 
 rinsed out with hot water, and wiped with 
 a clean cloth. A landlady will find it good 
 economy, and for her advantage in other 
 respects, to provide plenty of stone ware and 
 earthen vessels, and also common dishes for 
 the kitchen, that the table set may not be 
 used to keep cold meat on. 
 
 In boiling soup, less water is used in a 
 digester than in a common pot, as in a di- 
 gester no steam can escape. 
 
 To extract the strength from meat, long 
 and slow boiling is necessary, but care must 
 Ije talien that the pot is never oft' the boil. 
 All soups are better for Ijeing made the day 
 before they are to be used, and they sliouid 
 then be strained into eardien pans. When 
 soup has jellied in the pan, it should not be 
 removed into another, as breaking it will 
 occasion its l)ecoming sour sooner than it 
 would odierwise do; when in danger of not 
 keeping, it should be boiled up. It never 
 kee|)s long with many vegetables in it. The 
 meat used for soups or broths cannot be too 
 fresh. When any animal food is plain, 
 boiled, the liquor, vviUi the addition of the 
 trimmings of meat and poultry, make good 
 soups and gravies, as do also the bones of 
 
SOUPS 
 
 201 
 
 SOUPS 
 
 or broiled meat. The g^vies left 
 in the dishes answer for hashes, and the 
 liquor in which veal has been boiled, may 
 be made into a glaze by boiling it with a 
 ham bone till reduced to a thii-d or fourth 
 part, and seasoning it with the necessary 
 iierl» and spices. 
 
 In boiling weak soups, the pan should lie 
 uncovered that the wateiy particles may 
 escape. Cow-heel jelly improves every 
 sort of rich soup; and for thickening, truf- 
 lles, morels, and dried mushrooms, may be 
 used with advantage. 
 
 Directions are given with each of the 
 following soups for thickening with flour 
 aiid butter, cream and eggs ; after the cream 
 and eggs are added, the soup must not be 
 allowed to boil. 
 
 Should brown gravy or mock turtle soup 
 be spoiling, fresh-made charcoal, roughly 
 pounded, tied in a little bag and boiled wiUi 
 either, will absorb the bad flavor and leave 
 it sweet and good. The charcoal may be 
 made by simply putting a bit of wood into 
 tlie fire, and pounding tlie burnt part in a 
 mortar. 
 
 ASPARAGUS. This is made 
 
 with the points of asparagus, in the same 
 manner as the green pease soup is with 
 pease: let half the asparagus be rubbed 
 through a sieve, and the other cut in pieces 
 about an inch long, and boiled till done 
 enough, and sent up in the soup: to make 
 two quarts, there must be a pint of heads 
 to tliicken it, and half a pint cut in ; take 
 care to preserve these green and a little 
 crisp. This soup is sometimes made by 
 adding tlie asparagus heads to common pease 
 soup. 
 
 BEEF, THICK. In eight quarts 
 
 of water boil gently for seven hours, skim- 
 ming it well, a shin, or a leg of beef, and a 
 bimch of sweet herbs ; strain it the next day, 
 take off the fat, and cut all the gristly and 
 sinewy parts from the bones, add them to 
 the soup with some leeks, onions, celery, 
 pepper, salt, and ten or twelve ounces of 
 Scotch barley parboiled; boil it gently for 
 two or three hours. This stock or jelly will 
 keep good for weeks in cold weather. 
 
 BEEF* OR MUTTON. Boil 
 
 very gently in a closely covered saucepan, 
 foui' quails of water, with two table-spoon- 
 fuls of sifted bread raspings, three pounds 
 of beef cut in small pieces, or the same 
 quantity of mutton chops taken from the 
 middle of the neck; season with pepper 
 and salt, add two turnips, two carrots, two 
 onions, and one head of celery, all cut sihall ; 
 let it stew with tliCfie ingredients four hours, 
 when it will be ready to serve. 
 
 BEET ROOT. Boil till tender 
 
 two roots of beet, and rub off the skin with 
 a coarse towel, mince them finely, as also 
 two or three onions; add this to five pints 
 of rich gravy soup, so as to make it rather 
 thick, then stir in three or four table-spoon- 
 fuls of vinegar and one of brown sugar; let it 
 boil, and throw in some fricandellans made 
 up in die form of corks, and rolled in flour. 
 
 AND BOUILLI. The best 
 
 parts for this purpose, are the leg or shin, 
 or a piece of the middle of a brisket of 
 beef, of about seven or eight pounds' weight ; 
 lay it on a fish drainer, or when you take it 
 up, put a slice under it, which will enable 
 you to place it on the dish entire ; put it in- 
 to a souppot or deep stewpan, with cold 
 water enough to cover it, and a quart over, 
 set it on a quick fire to get tlie scum up, 
 which remove as it rises ; then put in two 
 carrots, two turnips, two leeks, or two 
 large onions, two heads of celery, two or 
 three cloves, and a faggot of pai-sley and 
 sweet herbs ; set the pot by the side of the 
 fire to simmer very gently, till the meat is 
 just tender enough to eat ; this will require 
 about four or five hours. 
 
 Put a large carrot, a turnip, a large onion, 
 and a head or two of celery, into the soup 
 whole, — take them out as soon as they are 
 done enough, lay them on a dish till they are 
 cold, then cut them into small squares: — 
 when the Beef is done, take it out careful- 
 ly, — strain the Soup through a hair sieve 
 into a clean stewpan, take off the fat, and 
 put the vegetables that are cut into the 
 soup, the flavor of which you may heighten, 
 by adding a table-spoonful of mushroom 
 ketchup. 
 
 If a Thickened Soup is preferred, take 
 four large table-spoonfuls of the clear fat 
 from the top of the pot, and four spoonfuls 
 of flour; mix it smooth together, then by 
 degrees stir it well into the soup, which 
 simmer for ten minutes longer at least, — 
 skim it well and pass it through a tamis, 
 or fine sieve, and add the vegetables and 
 seasoning the same as directed in the clear 
 soup. 
 
 Keep the beef hot, and send it op (as a 
 remove to the soup) with finely chopped 
 parsley sprinkled on tlie top, and a sauce- 
 boat of Wow Wow sauce. 
 
 BROWN, wiTHOcT Meat. 
 
 Put three quarts or more of water, with a 
 sufficient quantity of raspings to thicken it; 
 two or three onions cut across, some whole 
 pepper, and a little salt ; cover it close, and 
 let it boil an hour and a half; ti^ko it ofT, 
 and strain it through a sieve; (ry in butter 
 some celery, endive, lettuc*, spmach, and 
 any other iierbs cut small; then tak« % 
 
SOUPS 
 
 202 
 
 SOUPS 
 
 gtewpaa (sufficiently large to hold all the 
 ingredients,) and put in a good piece of but- 
 ter, stick in a little flour, and keep stirring 
 till it is colored of a nice brown ; then put 
 in the herljs and soup ; boil it till tlie heibs 
 are tender, and tlie soup of a projjer consist- 
 ence, tlien pour the soup into a tiu-een, and 
 send to table; sen'e with fried bread, either 
 in the soup or in a dish. 
 
 BROWN GRAVY. (1) Take 
 
 fifteen pounds of a leg or shin of beef, cut off 
 the meat in bits, rub the bottom of the pot 
 witli butter, put in the meat, let it brown 
 for nearly an hour, turning it constantly, 
 break die bone and take out the marrow, 
 which may be kept for a pudding, but it is 
 considered better than butter to brown the 
 meat with; put to it fourteen quarts of cold 
 water, and tlie bones ; when it boils, skim 
 it perfectly clean, and add six good-sized 
 red onions, one carrot cut in three, one 
 head of celery, a good handful of whole 
 black and Jamaica pepper mixed; let this 
 boil very gently ten or twelve hours closely 
 covered, if u|X)n a fire, but if done upon a 
 hot plate, not lo be covered ; strain it through 
 a cullender, and then through a hair sieve, 
 into a laige pan, to be kept for use. Re- 
 turn the meat and bones into die pot with 
 diree or four quarts of hot water ; let it boil 
 nearly two hours, and strain it off. This 
 makes good stock for gravies, stews, or 
 any made dishes. 
 
 This gravy soup keeps perfectly good for 
 three or four weeks. When it is to be 
 boiled to send to table, first boil vermicelli, 
 or macaroni, in a little salt and water, till 
 tender; strain it, and add it to the soup 
 just before serving. This soup is quite 
 pure, and requires no clearing. It is a 
 most convenient thing to have in a house in 
 cold weadier, as it is always ready for use; 
 and, served with dry toast to eat with it, 
 makes an acceptable luncheon. 
 
 The trimmings of meat, giblets, and bones, 
 may be boiled with the beef for this soup. 
 
 BROWN GRAVY. (2) ait 
 
 down three pounds of gravy beef, and put it 
 on in a stewpan with diree onions cut small, 
 and two ounces of butter; let it brown well, 
 stirring it to prevent the onions from burn- 
 ing ; then add four quarts of water,- one 
 head of celeiy, of carrots and turnips two 
 each, with some whole black pepper and 
 gait ; boil it gently for four hours ; strain it ; 
 and the next day take off the fat. When 
 it is heated, add some vermicelli, previously 
 boiled in water, and serve it after boiling 
 ten minutes. 
 
 CALF'S HEAD, OR MOCK 
 
 TURTLE. (1) Parboil a calf's head, take 
 
 off the skin and cut it in bits about an inch 
 and a half square, cut the fleshy parts in bits, 
 take out the black part of the' eyes, and cut 
 die rest in rings, skin the tongue, and cut it 
 in slices, add it all to three quarts of good 
 stock, and season it with cayenne, two or 
 three blades of mace, salt, the jieel of half a 
 lemon, and half a pint of white wine, with 
 about a dozen of forcemeat balls ; stew all 
 this an hour and a half, rub down with a 
 little cold water, two table-spoonfuls of flour, 
 mix well amongst it half a pint of the soup, 
 and then stir it into the pot ; put in the 
 juice of half a large lemon, and the hard- 
 boiled yolks of eight eggs ; let it simmer for 
 ten minutes, and tiien put it all in the tureen. 
 
 CALF'S HEAD. (2) Scald 
 
 and clean thoroughly a calf's head with 
 the skin on, boil it an hour gently in three 
 quarts of water, and pat-boil with it some 
 sweetbreads. Cut off the meat, slice and 
 fi-y of a light brown in butter two pounds 
 of gravy beef, one of veal, and one of mut- 
 ton, with five onions cut small ; put all into 
 die liquor, adding die bones of the head 
 broken; rinse the frying-pan with two 
 quarts of boiling wajer, and put it to the 
 meat, and other things, with two whole on- 
 ions, and a bunch of sweet herbs, and twice 
 their quantity of parsley ; the peel of one 
 lemon, four cloves, a little allspice, salt, 
 and black pepper, with a slice of the crumb 
 of bread dried before the fire ; let all this 
 stew slowly for five hours, strain it, and 
 when cold, take off all the fat. Cut the 
 meat of the calf's head, tongue, and sweet- 
 breads, in small square bits, add them to 
 tlie soup, and when it has boiled, mix very 
 gradually widi a large table-spoonful ot 
 flour a cupful of the soup, and stir it gently 
 into the pot ; twenty minutes before serving, 
 add a small tea-spoonful of cayenne, the 
 yolks of eight or ten hard-boiled eggs, and 
 the same number of forcemeat balls ; a pint 
 of white wine, — Madeira is the best, — and 
 just before serving, add thejuiceof a lemon. 
 Forcemeat balls for this soup are made as 
 follows: — Mix the brains with five table- 
 spoonfuls of grated bread, the same of finely 
 minced beef suet, a tea-spoonful of salt, one 
 of white pepper, the grated peel of a lemon, 
 some nutmeg, and boiled parsley chopped; 
 beat the yolks and whites of two eggs, roll 
 the balls the size of the yolk of an egg, and 
 fry diem of a light brown in boiling drip- 
 ping. 
 
 CALF'S HEAD. (3) Take as 
 
 much as is required of not very stiong veal, or 
 beef stock, in which six onions have been 
 boiled, brown a quarter of a pound of butter 
 and thicken it well with flour, then add the 
 stock by degrees; when it boils, put in the 
 
SOUPS 
 
 203 
 
 SOUPS 
 
 calPs head, cut in small pieces, and some fried 
 forcemeat balls; season it with salt and 
 pepper. The peel of half a lemon improves 
 it. When it has boiled twenty minutes, 
 add two table-spoonfuls of ketchup, three of 
 essence of anchovies, and as much lemon 
 pickle as will make it a pleasant acid. To 
 give the soup a good color, and to enrich the 
 flavor, may be added a large table-spoonful 
 of flour, mixed perfectly smooth in a tea- 
 cupful of cold water, and stirred gradually 
 into tlie soup, after which let it boil a few 
 minutes. 
 
 CARROT. Scrape and wash 
 
 half a dozen large carrots; peel off the red 
 outside (which is the only part. used for this 
 soup); put it into a gallon'stewpan, with 
 one head of celery, and an onion, cut into 
 thin pieces; take two quarts of beef, veal, 
 or mutton brotli, or if you have any cold 
 roast beef bones (or liquor, in which mutton 
 or beef has been boiled), you may make very 
 good broth for this soup: when you have 
 put the broth to the ropts, cover the stewpan 
 close, and set it on a slow stove for two 
 hours and a half, when the carrots will be 
 soft enough (some cooks put in a tea-cupful 
 of bread-crumbs) ; boil for two or three 
 minutes; rub it through a tamis, or hair 
 sieve, with a wooden spoon, and add as much 
 brotli as will make it a proper thickness, 
 t. e. almost as thick as pease soup: put it 
 into a clean stewpan ; make it hot ; season 
 it with a little salt, and send it up with 
 some toasted bread, cut into pieces half an 
 inch square. Some put it into the soup; 
 but the best way is to send it up on a plate, 
 as a side dish. 
 
 CELERY. Split half a dozen 
 
 heads of celery into slips about two inches 
 long; wash them well; lay them on a hair 
 sieve to drain, and put them into three quarts 
 of clear gravy soup in a gallon soup-pot ; set 
 it by the side of the fire to stew very gently 
 till the celery is tender (this will tiike about 
 an hour). If any scum rises, take it off; 
 season with a little salt. 
 
 Obs. — When celery cannot be procured, 
 half a drachm of the seed, pounded fine, 
 which may be considered as the essence of 
 celery, put in a quarter of an hour before the 
 soup is done, and a little sugar, will give as 
 much flavor to half a gallon of soup as two 
 heads of celery weighing seven ounces, or 
 add a little essence of celery. 
 
 COCKY-LEEKY. Take a 
 
 scrag of mutton, or shank of veal, three 
 quarts of water (or liquor in which meat has 
 been boiled), and a good sized fowl, with 
 two or three leeks cut in pieces about an 
 inch long, pepper and salt ; boil slowly about 
 
 an hour: then put in as many more leeks, 
 and give it three-quarters of an hour longer: 
 this is very good, made of good beef stock, 
 and leeks put in at twice. 
 
 CRAWFISH. This soup is 
 
 sometimes made with beef, or veal broth, or 
 with fish, in the following manner: Take 
 flounders, eels, gudgeons, &c., and set them 
 on to boil in cold water ; when it is pretty 
 nigh boiling, skim it well; and to three 
 quarts put in a couple of onions, and as many 
 carrots cut to pieces, some parsley, a dozen 
 berries of black and Jamaica pepper, and 
 about half a hundred craw-fish ; take off the 
 small claws and shells of the tails; pound 
 them fine, and boil them with the broth 
 about an hour; strain ofi', and break in 
 some crusts of bread to thicken it, and, if 
 you can get it, the spawn of a lobster ; pound 
 it, and put it to the soup ; let it simmer verj 
 gently for a couple of minutes ; put in your 
 craw-fish to get hot, and the soup is ready. 
 
 CRESSY. (1) Wash clean, 
 
 and cut small, eight carrots, eight turnips, 
 three heads of celery, and six onions; put 
 them in a stewpan with a quarter of a pound 
 of butter and a slice of ham, stew them 
 gently for an hour, stirring them constantly: 
 when they begin to brown add as much 
 gravy soup as will fill the tureen ; let it boi: 
 till the vegetables are sufficiently tender to 
 pulp with a spoon through a sieve, after 
 which put it on the fire and boil it half an 
 hour, skin, and season it with pepper and 
 salt. This soup should be as thick as melt- 
 ed butter. Two pounds of beef boiled in 
 four (juarts of water till reduced to three, 
 will answer for the soup. 
 
 CRESSY. (2) Slice twelve 
 
 large onions, and fry them pretty brown in 
 a quarter of a pound of fresh butter ; scrape 
 and clean two dozen of good red carrots, 
 boil them in four quarts of water till quite 
 soft ; [»ound them in a marble mortar, mix 
 them with the onions and add the liquor in 
 which the carrots were boiled, a bunch of 
 sweet herbs, pepper, salt, a blade of mace, 
 and two or three cloves ; let them all boil 
 about an hour, then rub them through a hair 
 sieve ; put it on again to boil rather quickly, 
 till it be as thick as rich cream. Put a lit- 
 tle dry boiled rice in the tureen, and pour 
 the soup over it. If the carrots are large, 
 one dozen will be found sufficient. 
 
 CUCUMBER. Make some 
 
 broth with a neck of mutton, a thick slice 
 of lean bacon, an onion stuck with three 
 cloves, a carrot, two turnips, some salt, and 
 a bunch of sweet herbs ; strain it ; brown 
 with an ounce of butter the crumb of a 
 
SOUPS 
 
 204 
 
 SOUPS 
 
 French roll, to which put four large cucum- 
 bers, and two heads of lettuce cut small ; let 
 them stew a quarter of an hour, and add to 
 them a quart of tlie broth; when it boils 
 put in a pint of green pease, and as it stews, 
 add two quarts more of the broth. 
 
 CURRY, OR MULLAGA- 
 
 TAWNY. Cut four pounds of a breast of 
 veal into pieces, about two inches by one; 
 put the trimmings into a stewpan witli two 
 quarts of water, witli twelve corns of black 
 pepper, and tlie same of allspice ; when it 
 boils, skim it clean, and let it boil an hour 
 and a half, then strain it off; while it is 
 boiling, fry of a nice brown in butter tlie 
 bits of veal and four onions; when they are 
 done, put the broth to them ; put it on the 
 fire; when it boils, skim it clean; let it 
 simmer half an hour; then mix two spoon- 
 fuls of curry, and the same of flour, with a 
 little cold water and a tea-spoonful of salt; 
 add tliese to the soup, and simmer it gently 
 till the veal is quite tender, and it is ready; 
 or bone a couple of fowls or rabbits, and 
 stew them in the manner directed above for 
 the veal, and you may put in a bruised esr 
 chalot, and some mace and ginger, instead of 
 black pepper and allspice. 
 
 CURRY. Mince small three 
 
 I quantity of parsley, two drachms of allspice, 
 1 the same of black pepper ; cover it close, 
 and let it boil gently for two hours; then 
 strain it off, and skim it vei^ clean. To 
 thicken it, put three ounces of butter into a 
 clean stewpan; when it is melted, stir in as 
 much flour as will make it of a stiff paste, 
 then add the liquor by degrees ; let it simmer 
 for ten minutes, and pass it through a sieve ; 
 then put your soup on in a clean stewpan, 
 and have ready some little square pieces of 
 fish fried of a nice light brown, either eels, 
 soles, plaice, or skate will do; the fried 
 fish should be added about ten minutes be- 
 fore the soup is served up. Forcemeat balls 
 are sometimes added. 
 
 or four onions, according to their size, put 
 them into a saucepan w ith two ounces of 
 butter, dredge in some flour, and fry them 
 till of a light brown, taking care not to 
 burn them; rub in by degrees a large table- 
 spoonful and a half of curry-powder, till it 
 be quite a paste; gradually stir in three 
 quarts of gravy soup, mixing it well togeth- 
 er; boil it gently till it be well flavored 
 with the curry-powder; strain it into anoth- 
 er saucepan, and add a fowl skinned and 
 cut in small pieces, dividing each joint; 
 stew it slowly an hour. In half a pint of 
 the soup put a large table-spoonful of tama- 
 rinds, and stew them so as to separate the 
 stalks and stones ; strain and stir it into the 
 soup with half a tea-spoonful of salt, and 
 boil it for fifteen minutes before serving. 
 
 EEL. To make a tureenful, take 
 
 a couple of middling-sized onions, cut them 
 in half, and cross your knife over them two 
 or diree times; put two ounces of butter 
 into a stewpjm, when it is melted put in the 
 onions, stir them about till they are lightly 
 browned; cut into pieces three pounds of 
 eels, put tliem into your stewpan, and shake 
 them over the fire for five minutes ; then add 
 three quarts of boiling water, and when they 
 come to a boil, take the scum off very clean ; 
 then put in a quarter of an ounce of the 
 green leaves (not dried) of winter savory, 
 the same of lemon thyme, and twice tlie 
 
 GIBLET. Clean very nicely 
 
 two sets of giblets, parboil diem. Take the 
 skin off the feet ; cut the gizzards in quar- 
 ters, the necks in three bits, the feet, pin- 
 ions, and livei-s, in two, the head in two 
 also, first taking off the bill; boil them till 
 nearly done enough in a quart of weak gravy 
 soup with an onion. Have ready boiling 
 some rich highly-seasoned brown gravy soup ; 
 add the gibleLs and the liquor they have been 
 boiled in, with some chopped parsley ; take 
 out tlie onion, and thicken the soup with a 
 bit of butter kneaded in flour. If the giblets 
 are not perfectly sweet and fresh, do not add 
 the weak soup they were boiled in. Half a 
 pint of wine may be added a little before 
 serving, but it is very good without. 
 
 GOURD, Should be made of 
 
 full-grown gourds, but not those that have 
 hard skins ; slice diree or four, and put dieni 
 in a stewpan, with two or three onions, and 
 a good bit of butter ; set them over a slow 
 fire till quite lender (be carefiil not to let 
 them burn) ; then add two ounces of crust of 
 bread, and two quarts of good consomme; 
 season with salt and cayenne pepper: boil 
 ten minutes, or a quarter of an hour; skim 
 off all the fat, and pass it through a tamis ; 
 then make it quite hot, and serve up with 
 fried bread. 
 
 GRAVY, CLEAR. Cut half a 
 
 pound of ham into slices, and lay them at 
 the bottom of a large stewpan or stockpot, 
 with two or three pounds of lean beef, and 
 as much veal ; break the bones, and lay them 
 on the meat; take off the outer skin of two 
 large onions and two turnips; wash, clean, 
 and cut into pieces a couple of large carrots, 
 and two heads of celery ; and put in three 
 cloves and a lai^e blade of mace. Cover 
 the stewpan close, and set it over a smart 
 fire. Wlien the meat begins to stick to the 
 bottom of die stewpan, turn it ; and when 
 there is a nice brown glaze at the bottom of 
 Uie stewpan, cover tlie meat with hot water: 
 
SOUPS 
 
 205 
 
 SOUPS 
 
 watdk it, and wlien it is coining to boil put 
 in half a pint of cold water ; take off tlie 
 scum ; then put in half a pint more cold 
 water, and skim it agjiin, and continue to 
 do so till no more scum rises. Now set it 
 on one side of the fire to boil gently for about 
 four hours ; strain it through a clean tamis 
 or napkin (do not squeeze it, or the soup 
 will be thick) into a clean stone pan ; let it 
 remain till it is cold, and then remove all the 
 fat. When you decant it, be careful not to 
 disturb the settlings at the bottom of the 
 pan. 
 
 The broth should be of a fine amber color^ 
 and as clear as rock water. If it is not 
 quite so bright as you wish it, put it into a 
 stewpan; break two whites and shells of 
 eggs into a basin; beat them well together; 
 put them into the soup: set it on a quick 
 five, and stir it with a whisk till it boils; 
 then set it on one side of the fire to settle 
 for ten minutes ; run it through a fine napkin 
 into a basin, and it is ready. 
 
 However, if your broth is carefully skim- 
 med, &c. according to the directions above 
 given, it will be clear enough without clari- 
 fying; which process impairs the flavor of 
 it in a higher proportion than it improves 
 its appearance. This is the basis of almost 
 all gravy soups, which are called by the 
 name of the vegetables that are put into them. 
 Carrots, turnips, onions, celery, and a few 
 leaves of chervil, make what is called spring 
 soup, or soup sante; to this a pint of green 
 pease, or asparagus pease, oi French beans 
 cut into pieces, or a cabbage lettuce, are an 
 improvement. With rice or Scotch barley, 
 with macaroni or vennicelli, or celery cut 
 into lengths, it will be the soup usually call- 
 ed by those names. Or turnips scooped 
 round, or young onions, will give you a clear 
 turnip or onion soup ; and all these vegeta- 
 bles mixed together, soup gressi. The 
 roots and vegetables you use must be boiled 
 first, or they will impregnate the soup with 
 too strong a flavor. The seasoning for all 
 these soups is the same, viz. salt and a very 
 little cayenne pepper. 
 
 GAME. In the game season, it 
 
 is easy for a cook to give a very good soup 
 at a very little expense, by taking all the 
 meat off the breasts of any cold birds which 
 have l)een left the preceding day, and pound- 
 ing it in a mortar, and beating to pieces the 
 legs and bones, and boiling them in some 
 broth for an hour. Boil six turnips; mash 
 them, and strain them through a tamis cloth 
 with the meat that has been pounded in a 
 mortar; strain your broth, and put a little 
 of it at a time into the tamis to help you to 
 strain all of it through. Put your soup-ket- 
 tle near the fire, but do not let it boil: when 
 ready to dish vour dinner, have six yolks of 
 18 
 
 ^gs mixed with half a pint of cream; stiraiiil' 
 through a sieve ; put your soup on the fire, 
 and as it is coming to boil, put in die eggs, 
 and stir well with a wooden spoon: do not 
 let it boil, or it will curdle. 
 
 HARE. Cut the hare in joints 
 
 as for a fricassee, and put it in a stewpan, 
 with a little allspice, three blades of mace, 
 some salt, and whole black pepper, a buncJi 
 of parsley, a sprig of lemon tliyme, one of 
 winter savojy, four quarts of water, a slice 
 of ham, and four pounds of lean beef, two 
 carrots, and four onions cut down; let it 
 boil till it l)e reduced to three quarts ; sepa- 
 rate the hare, and strain die soup over it, 
 and add a pint of Port wine ; boil it up be- 
 fore serving. 
 
 HERB. Wash and cut small 
 
 twelve cabbage lettuces, a handful of chervil, 
 one of purslane, one of parsley, eight large 
 green onions, and diree handfuls of sorrel; "^ 
 when pease are in season omit half the quanti-' 
 ty of soirel, and put a quart of young green 
 pease; put them all into a saucepan, with 
 half a pound of butter and three c:irrots cut 
 small, some salt and pepper ; let them stew 
 closely covered for half an hour, shaking 
 them occasionally to prevent their adhering 
 to the pan ; fry in butter six cucumbers cut 
 longways in four pieces; add them with four 
 quarts of hot water, half a French roll, and 
 a crust of bread toasted upon both sides; 
 and let the whole boil till reduced to three 
 quarts, then strain it through a sieve; beat 
 up the yolks of four eggs widi half a pint 
 of cream, and stir it gently into the soup just 
 before serving. 
 
 HERB POWDER, OR VEG- 
 
 ETABLE RELISH. Dried parsley, win- 
 ter savory, sweet marjoram, lemon thyme, 
 of each two ounces; lemon-peel, cut very 
 thin, and dried, and sweet basil, an ounce ' 
 of each. Some add to the above bay-leaves ^ 
 and celery-seed, a drachm each. Dry them 
 in a warm, but not too hot Dutch oven: 
 when quite dried, pound them in a mortar, 
 and pass them through a double hair sieve ; 
 put them in a bottle closely stopped, they 
 will retain their fragrance and flavor for 
 several months. 
 
 Obs. — This composition of the fine aro- 
 matic herbs is an invaluable acquisition to 
 the cook in those seasons or situations when 
 fresh herbs cannot be had ; and we prefer it 
 to the ragout powder. It impregnates sauce, 
 soup, &c. with as much relish, and renders 
 it agreeable to the palate, and refreshes the 
 gustatory nerves, without so much risk of 
 offending the stomach. 
 
 INVALID. Cut in small pieces * 
 
SOUPS 
 
 206 
 
 SOUPS 
 
 one pound of beef or mutton, or part of both ; 
 Loil it gently in two qiuiils of water; take 
 off the hcuui, and when reduced to a pint, 
 stritin it. Seiison with a little suit, and take 
 a ten-cupful at a time. 
 
 LOBSTER. (1) Cut small a 
 
 dozen of C()inm(>n-si/.ed onions, put them into 
 abtewpan with a t^mall bit tif buHer, a slice 
 or two of lean ham, and a slicre of lean l)eef ; 
 when llie oninns are quite soft, mix gradu- 
 ally with them some rich stock; let it Ix^il, 
 and strain it through a fine iiair sieve, press- 
 ing the pulp (if the onions with a wooden 
 Bpoon; then boil it well, skiaiming ii all the 
 time. Beat the meat of a boiled cod, the 
 spawn and Ixxly of a large l.)bster, or etf two 
 small ones, in a marble moitar; add grad- 
 ually to it the soup, stirring it till it is as 
 smooth as cream; let it boil again and scum 
 it. Cut the tail and the claws of the I'-bster 
 into pieces, and add them to the soup l)efore 
 serving it, and also some pepper, cayenne, 
 white pepjier, and a glass of white wine. 
 Forcemeat balls may l)e adde I to oyster soup 
 and lobster soup, nrade as directed under the 
 article " Forcemeat for fish." 
 
 LOBSTER. (2) You must 
 
 have three fine lively young hen lobsters, 
 split the tails; take out the fish, crack the 
 clawe, and cut the meat into mouthfuls: 
 take out the coral, and soft part of the body ; 
 Lruise part of the coral in a mortar; pi(tk 
 out the fish from the chines; l)eat part of it 
 with the coral, and with this make forcemeat 
 Iwlls, finely-flavijred with mace or nutmeg, 
 a little graieii lemon-peel, anchovy and cay- 
 enne ; pound these wiUt the yolk of an egg. 
 
 Have three quarts of veal broth; bruise 
 the small legs and the chine, and put them 
 into it, to boil for twenty minutes, then 
 strain it ; and then to thicken it, lake the 
 live spawn and bruise it in a mortar with a 
 little butter and flour; nib it through a sieve, 
 and add it to the soup with the meat (jf the 
 iol>sters, and the remaining coral; let it 
 simmer very gently for ten minutes; do not 
 let it boil, or its fine red color will iunne- 
 diately fade; turn it into a tureen; adl the 
 juice of a good lemon, and a little essence 
 of anchovy. 
 
 LORRA iN. Boil in four quarts 
 
 of water a knuckle of veal, one |Miund of 
 lean beef, and (jne |X)und of mutton, a car- 
 rot, a Uunip, a bunch of parsley, ami a little 
 lemon tJiyme, some salt and white pepper, 
 till reduced to three, then strain die liipmr; 
 pound very finely in a marble mortar, all the 
 white meal of a large roast el fowl, with a 
 quarter of a pojjnd of l)lanc,hed ahuonds, and 
 ll»e y<ilks of f)Ur liani l)oiled «*ggs; ImmI in 
 JDJlk the crumb of a Frencii rult^ uiid |iound 
 
 it with the odier ingreriients, and Ftir it all 
 well into the soup; let it boil gently for tear 
 minutes before serving. 
 
 MAIGRE, OR VEGETABLE 
 
 GRAVY. Put into a galhm slewpan dnee 
 ounces <jf buttei ; set it over a slow fire ; 
 while it is melting, slite four ounces of 
 onion; cut in small pieces one turnip, one 
 ; carrot, and a head of celery; put tliem iu the 
 I stewpan, cover it close, let it iiy till they are 
 lightly browned; diis will take aljout IweD* 
 ty-five minutes: have ready, in a saunepan,,' 
 a pint (.f |)ease, with four (|uarls of water; 
 v^-hen the roots in the slew|>an are quite 
 brown, and the |x'ase come to a Ixjil, put Uie 
 pease an! water to them; put it on the fire; 
 when it boils, skim it clean, and put in a 
 crust of bieatl about as big as the top of a 
 twojK^nny loaf, tvventy-foiw berries of all- 
 spice, the same of black pepi;er, and two 
 blades of mace; cover it close, let it simmer 
 gently for one hoi'r and a half; then set it 
 from the fire for ten minutes; then pour it 
 oft' very gently (so as not to disturb the sedi- 
 ment at the bottom of the stewpan) into a 
 large basin; let it stand (about two hours) 
 till il is (|uite cleir: while this is doing, 
 shied one large turnip, the red part of a 
 large carrot, three (,uuces of onion minced, 
 and one large h<'ad of celeiy cut into small 
 bits; put the turnips and carrots on die fire 
 in cold water, let them boil five minutes, 
 then diaiu them on a sieve, then pour oft" the 
 soup clear into a stewpan, put in the roots, 
 put the soup on the fire, let it sinuner gently 
 till the herbs aie tender (from thirty U> forty 
 minutes), season it with salt anl a little 
 cayenne, and it is ready. You may add a 
 table-six)onfid <;f mushroom ketchup. You 
 will have three quarts of soup, as well color- 
 ed, and almost as well tiavoreti, as if made 
 widi gravy uieat. To make tins it requires 
 nearly five hours. To fry the herl)s retjuiie-s 
 twenty-five minutes; to lx>il all togedier, one 
 hour and a half; to .settle, at the least, tw&, 
 hours ; when clear, and put on the fire agtiin, 
 half an hour mure. 
 
 MACARONL (1) Boil for three 
 
 hours very (piickly, in five (juaits of water, 
 seven pounds of veal, a little .salt, a dessert- 
 s[)oonful of white pepper, and three or four 
 blades of maco ; strain it oflT, put it into a 
 sauce|;an, and keep it hot upon a stove. 
 Mix five fable-spoonfids of flour with two 
 o\mces of butter, put it into an ir<m-linned 
 sjuicepan, and stii it over the fire till it be 
 melted ; add half a pint of the strained stock, 
 and then gradually mix the whole together, 
 and keep stirring constantly liil it liiirkeus, 
 an I then add two ounces and a luilf of mac- 
 aroni, |!ie\iously Ixtiled in milk and water 
 fir eight minutes; stir il again till it boil. 
 
SOUPS 
 
 207 
 
 SOUPS 
 
 Take the pan off tliR stove, and ftir in by 
 degrees about three-:inarier9 of a pint of rich 
 swcei cieain, and jujit let it boil before ser- 
 ving. 
 
 -MACARONI. (2) Make a good 
 
 stock with a knuckle of veal, a little sweet 
 maijoraai, paislej', some salt, white pepper, 
 three blades of mace, and two or three on- 
 ions; strain and boil it. Break in small bits 
 a quarter of a pound of macaroni, and gently 
 simmer it in milk and water till it be swell- 
 ed and is tender; strain it, and add it to the 
 soup, which thicken with two table-spoonfuls 
 of Hour, mixe' in half a pint of cream, and 
 stirred gi-a lually into the soup. Boil it a few 
 minutes before serving. 
 
 MOCK TURTLE. Endeavor 
 
 to have the head and the broth ready for the 
 
 soup, the day before it is to be eaten. It 
 
 will take eight hours to prepare it propei ly. 
 
 hours. 
 
 Cleanin? and snakin? the he id 1 
 
 To p rlioil it t > c.it up 1 
 
 Coo in.', n arly 1 
 
 Making the broth and finishing the soup 5 
 
 8 
 Get a calf's head with the skin on (the 
 fresher t\\e letter); take out the brains, 
 wash the head several times in cold water, 
 let it soak for about an hoiu- in spring water, 
 then lay it in a stewpan, and cover it with 
 cold water, and h ilf a gallon over; as it be- 
 comes warm, a great deal of scum will rise, 
 which must be immediately removed ; let it 
 boil gently for one hour, take it up, and when 
 almost Colli, cut the head into pieces about 
 an inch and a half by an inch and a quarter, 
 and the tongue into mouthfuls, or rather 
 make a side-dish of the tongue and brains. 
 
 When the head is taken out, put in the 
 stock me;it, about five pounds of knuckle ofc 
 veal, and as much Ijeef; add to the stock all 
 the trimming*! and bones of the head, skim 
 it well, and then cover it close, and let it 
 boil five hours (reserve a couple of quarts of 
 this to make gravy sauces) ; then strain it off, 
 and let it stand till the next morning; then 
 take off the fat, set a large stewpan on the 
 fire with half a pound of good fresh butter, 
 twelve ounces of onions sliced, and four oun- 
 ces of green sage ; elrip it a little; let these 
 fry one hour ; then rub in half a pound of 
 flour, and by degrees add your broth till it is 
 the thickness of cream ; season it with a 
 quarter of an ounce of ground allspice and 
 \ half an ounce of black pepper ground very 
 fine, salt to your taste, and the rind of one 
 lemon peeled very thi;i ; let it simmer very 
 gep'ly for one hour and a half, then strain it 
 through a hair sieve; do not rub your soup 
 to get it through tlie sieve, or it will make it 
 grouty; if it does not run through easily, 
 
 knf»ck yonr wooden «poon against the sidt 
 of your sieve; put it in a clean stewpan with 
 the head, and season it by adding to each 
 gallon of soup half a pint of wine^; Uiis should 
 be Madeira, or, if you wish to darken the 
 color of your soup, claret, and two table- 
 spoonfuls of lemon-juice; let it sinuner gently 
 till die meat is tender ; this may take from 
 half an hour to an hour: take care it is not 
 over-done ; stir it frequently to prevent the 
 meat sticking to the bottom of the stewpan, 
 and when the meat is quite tender the soup 
 is ready. 
 ( A head weighing twenty pounds, and ten 
 pounds of stock meat, will make ten quartA 
 of excellent soup, besides die two quarts of 
 stock you have put by for made dishes. 
 
 Obs. — If thei e is more meat on the head 
 than you wish to put in the soup, prepare it 
 for a pie, and, with the addition of a calPs 
 foot boiled tender, it will make an excellent 
 ragout pie; season it with zest, and a little 
 minced onion, put in half a tea-cupful of 
 stock, cover it with puff paste, and bake it 
 one hour: when the soup conies from table, 
 if there is a deal of meat and no soup, put it 
 into a pie-dii>h, season it a little, and add 
 some little stock to it; then cover it with 
 paste, bake it one hour, and you liave a 
 good mock turtle pie. 
 
 To season it, to each gallon of soup pnt 
 two table-spoonfuls of lemon-juice, same of 
 mushroom ketchup, and one of essence of 
 anchovy, half a pint of wine (this should be 
 Madeira, or, if you wish to darken the color 
 of your soup, claret), a tea-spoonful of curry 
 powder, or a quarter of a drachm of cayenne, 
 and the peel of a lemon pared as tliio ag 
 possible; let it simmer five minutes more, 
 take out the lemon-peel, and the soup is ready 
 f(»r the tureen. 
 
 While the soup is doing, prepare for each 
 tureen a dozen and a half of mock turtle 
 forcemeat balls, and put them into the tureen. 
 Brain balls, or cakes, are a very elegant ad- 
 dition, and are made by lioiling the brains 
 for ten minutes, then putting diem in cold 
 water, and cutting them into pieces about as 
 big as a large nutmeg ; take savory, or lemon 
 tliyme dried and finely pinvdered, nutmeg 
 grated, and pepper and salt, and |:x)un(l thera 
 all together; beat up an egg, dip the brains 
 in it, and then roll them in this mixture, and 
 make as much of it as possible stick to them; 
 dip them in the egg again, and then in finely- 
 grated and sifted bread-crumbs; fry them id 
 hot fat, and send them up as a side dish. 
 
 A veal sweetbread, not too much done or 
 it will break, cut into pieces the same size 
 as you cut die calf's head, and put in the 
 soup, just to get warm before it goes to table, 
 is a su|)erb " bonyte bouche;" and pickled 
 tongue, stewed till very tender, and cut into 
 raoudifuls, is a favorite addition. We order 
 
SOUPS 
 
 208 
 
 SOUPS 
 
 tlie meat to be cut into mouthfuls, that it 
 may be eaten with a spoon: the knife and 
 fork have no business in a soup-plate. 
 
 N. B. — In helping this soup, the distri- 
 buter of it sliould serve out the meat, force- 
 meat, and gravy, in equal parts ; however 
 trifling or needless this remark may appear, 
 the writer has often suffered from die want 
 of such a hint being given to the soup-serv- 
 er, who has sometimes sent a plate of mere 
 gi-avy widiout meat, at odiers, of meat with- 
 out gravy, and sometimes scarcely any thing 
 but forcemeat balls. 
 
 Obs. — This is a delicious soup, within 
 tlie reach of those who " eat to live ; " but 
 if it had been composed expressly for those 
 who only " live to eat," I do not know how 
 it could have been made more agreeable: as 
 it is, tlie lover of good eating will *' wish his 
 tliroata mile long, and every inch of it palate." 
 
 MGOR-FOV.'T,. It may be 
 
 made with or wiUiout brown gravy soup; 
 when with the former, six biids are sutii- 
 cient, when with moor-fi>\\ I only, buil five in 
 four quarts of water, pound tiie breasts in a 
 mortar and rub it through a sieve, put it 
 with the legs, backs, and Uiree more moor> 
 fowl, cut down in joints, into the liquor, 
 season witli a pint of Port wine, |X|.|,ci, 
 and salt, and let it boil an li >i r. \Vli(h 
 only six birds are used, pound the breasts 
 of three or four. 
 
 MOCK MOCK TURTLE. Line 
 
 the bottom of a stewpan that will hold five 
 pints, witli an ounce of nice lean bacon or 
 ham, a pound and a half of lean gravy beef, 
 a cow-heel, tlie inner rind of a carrot, a sprig 
 of lemon thyme, winter savory, three times 
 tlie quantity of pai-sley, a few green leaves 
 of sweet basil, and two eschalots; put in a 
 large onion, witli four cloves stuck in it, 
 eighteen corns of allspice, the same of black 
 [lepper ; pour on these a quarter of a pint 
 of cold water, cover the stewpan, and set it 
 on a slow fire, to boil gently for a quarter 
 of an hour ; then, for fear the meat should 
 catch, take off the cover, and watch it ; and 
 when it has got a good brown color, fill up 
 die stewpan with boiling water, and let it 
 simmer very gendy for two hours: if you 
 wish to have tlie full benefit of the meat, 
 only stew it till it is just tender, cut it into 
 mouthfuls, and put it into the soup. To 
 thicken it, pour two or three table-spoonftils 
 of flour, a ladleful of die gravy, and stir it 
 quick till it is well mixed ; pour it back in- 
 to the stewpan where the gravy is, and let 
 it simmer gently for half an hour longer; 
 skim it, and then strain it through a tamis 
 into the stewpan: cut the cow-heel into 
 pieces about an inch square, squeeze through 
 a sieve the juice of a lemon, a table-spoon- 
 ful of mushroom ketchup, a tea-spoonful of 
 salt, half a tea-spoonful of ground black 
 |)epper, as much grated nutmeg as will lie 
 on a sixpence, and a glass of Madeira or 
 Sherry wine; let it all simmer together for 
 five minutes longer. Forcemeat or egg balls 
 may be added if you please. 
 
 A pound of veal cutlets, or the belly pait 
 of pickled pork, or nice double tripe cut in- 
 to pieces about an inch square, and half an 
 inch thick, and rounded and trimmed neat- 
 ly from all skin, gristle, &c. and fit«"wed till 
 they are tender, will be a great addition. 
 
 MULLAGATAWNY. (1) Put 
 
 half a pound of fresh butter, widi six large 
 onions sliced, three cloves of garlic, some 
 j chopped parsley, and sweet marjoram, into 
 j a stewpan, let it stew over a slow fire till 
 of a light brown color; cut in small pieces 
 j five pounds of lean beef, and let diat stew 
 I till the gravy be extracted, and then put in 
 j diree quarts of boiling water, and half a 
 j pound of Scotch barley, and let it simmer 
 four hours very slowly; mix four table- 
 spoonfuls of cuny-powder with cold water, 
 and add it to the stock ; take out the beef, 
 and rub the bailey dirough a sieve, to thick- 
 en the soup. Cut a fowl in joints, skin it, 
 and put it in a stewpan with a piece of but- 
 ter, and let it stew till quite tender ; the 
 8tewj)an must be kept closely covered : this 
 to be added to the soup, the last diiiig, wiUi 
 a pint of boiling milk, and the juice of two 
 lemons. Boiled rice must always be &er\ed 
 widi diis soup. 
 
 MULLAGATAWNY. (2) 
 
 Make a strong stock of the bones of roasted 
 beef, mutton, and fowl ; while it is prepar- 
 ing, put into a stewj^an, with six ounces of 
 butter, diree quarts of sliced turnip, two 
 quarts of carrots, and eight large onions 
 also sliced; let them stew upon the stove till 
 tender ; dien add three quarts of tiie pre- 
 pared stock, a large slice of the crumb of 
 bread, and two table-spoonfuls of cuny- 
 powder; let them stew four or five hours; 
 strain it through a tammy cloth, with 
 two wooden spoons, taking care that no 
 bones be left amongst the vegetables ; if too 
 diick to go through, add more stock. Then 
 cut a fow'l in pieces, fry it in a frying-pan 
 with butter, and add it to the soup; after 
 it has boiled a little, draw it to the side 
 of the stove, and let it simmer, that the 
 grease may be taken off. A liltle good 
 beef stock, in addition to diat made of the 
 bones will be an improvement. It is some- 
 times thickened with whole or ground rice, | 
 instead of bread, and ought to be made'' 
 upon a stove. h 
 
 ON10.\. Boil in four quarts of 
 
 water six pounds of a knuckle of veal, w'itb 
 
SOUPS 
 
 209 
 
 SOUPS 
 
 a dessert-spoonful of wliole white pepjrer, 
 and a few hludcs of innce; when the meat 
 is so much hailed as to leave the ix.iie, ftiain 
 off the stock. The folhwing d.iy b.iil nine 
 or ten large Spanish onions in milk and 
 water, till sufficiently tender to |)ulp ihrongli 
 a sieve; take the fat off from the top of the 
 stock, boil it up, and add the onions with 
 about a (jnarter of a pound of fresh butter 
 worked with two heat>ed table-spoonfuls of 
 sifted Hour of rice, and a little salt; l)oil it 
 getitly f)r half an hour, stirring it constantly, 
 and a little before serving, stir in half a pint 
 of rich cream. 
 
 OX-HEAD, Should be pre- 
 
 pared tiie day belore it is to be eaten, as you 
 cannot rut the meit off the liead into neat 
 moutlifnis unless it is cold: theief>re, the 
 day belore yon want this soup, put half an 
 ox-cheek into a t«b of cold water to soak 
 for a couple of hiins; then break the bones 
 that have not Ijeen broken at the butcher's, 
 and wiisjj it very well in warm water; put 
 it into a put, and cover it with cold water; 
 when it boils, skim it very clean, and dien 
 put in ime head of celery, a couple of carrots, 
 a turnip, two large onions, two dozen ber- 
 ries of black pep|)er, same of allspice, and 
 a bundle of sweet herbs, such as maijorain, 
 lemon thyme, savory, anti a liandfal of pars- 
 ley ; cijver the soup-pot close, and >!et it on a 
 slow fire; take off the scum, which will rise 
 when i*. is coming to a boil, an I set it by the 
 fireside to stew very gently f.w alx>ut three 
 hours; take out the" head, hy it on a rli.sh, 
 ytnur the soup througli a fine sieve into a 
 stone-waie pan, and set it and the head by 
 in a cool j)lace till the next day; then cut 
 the meat into neat mouthfnls, .-^kim and strain 
 off the br(»th, put two (|n.irts! of it and the 
 meat into a clean stewpan, let if simmer very 
 gently for half an hour r»ng=»r, and it is 
 ready. If you wish it diickened, put two 
 ounces of butter into a stewpan; when it is 
 melted, fh"ow in as mu h Hour as will dry it 
 up; when they are all well mixed together, 
 and browneJ by degret^s, pour to this your 
 soup, and stir it well together; let itsinnner 
 for h df an hour longer; strain it through a 
 hair sieve into a clean stewpan, and put to 
 it the meat of the head ; let it stew half an 
 hour longer, and season it with cayenne 
 pepi^er, salt, an 1 a glass of g >od wine, «>r a 
 table-spoonful of brandy. If you serve it as 
 soup for a dozei [)eople, thicken «me tureen, 
 and ee id up the meat in that; and send up 
 the other as a clear gravy soup, with some 
 of the carrots and tui nips shiedded, or cut 
 into shapes. 
 
 OX-HEEL, Must be made the 
 
 day befnc it is to Ihj eaten. Procu.e ,\n 
 ox-heel undressed, or only scalded, and two 
 18*' 
 
 that have been boiled as they usually are at 
 the tri|)e sht)ps. 
 
 Cut (he meat off the boiled heels into neat 
 mouthfnls, and set it by on a plate; put the 
 trimmings and bones in a stewpan, with three 
 quarts of water, and theunl)oiled heel cut into 
 (juirters; furnish a stewpan with two onions, 
 and two turnips pared and sliced; pare off 
 the red part of a couple of large carrots, add 
 a couple of eschalots cut in half, a bunch of 
 savory or lemon thyme, and double the quan-. 
 tity of parsley; set this over, or by the side 
 of a si )W, steady fire, and keep it closely 
 covered and siuunering very gently (or the 
 soup li(|uor will eva|K)rate) f>r at least sevea 
 hours: during whicdi, take care to remove 
 the fat and scnni that will rise to the surface 
 of the soup, which must be kept as clean as 
 pos.<iible. 
 
 Now strain the liquor through a sieve, 
 and put two ounces of butler into a clean 
 stewpan; when it is melted, stir into it as 
 much dour as will make it a stiff paste; add 
 to it by degrees the soup liquor; give it a 
 boil up; strain it througli a sieve, and pa| 
 in die |)eel of a lemon p.ared as thin as pos^ 
 sible, and a couple of Lay-leaves, and the 
 meat of the boiled neels; let it go on siiiv* 
 mei ing for half an hour longer, i. e. till the 
 meat is tender. Put in the juice of a leinow, 
 a glass of wine, and a table-sf)oonfnl of mush- 
 room ketchup, and the soup is ready for the 
 tureen. 
 
 'J'hose who are disposed to make this a 
 more sul)stantial dish, may introduce a 
 couple of sets of goose or duck giblets, or 
 ox-tails, or a pound of veal culleti?, cut into 
 moudifuls. 
 
 OX-TAIL. Three tails, costing 
 
 about 2d. each, will make a tureen of soup 
 (desire the butcher to divide them at tlie 
 joints); lay them to soak in warm water, 
 i while you get ready the vegetables. 
 I Put into a gallon stewpan eight cloves, 
 j two or ihi-ee onions, half a drachm of all- 
 spice, and the same of black |)epper, and 
 1 the tails: cover them with cold water; skim 
 I it carefully, when and as long as you see 
 any scum rise; then cover the f)ot as close 
 as |K)s«ible, and set it on the side of the 
 ' fire to keep gently simmering till the meat 
 l)ecomes tender and will leave the Iwnea. 
 easily, U^cause it is to be eaten with aspoon, 
 I without tlie iussistance of a knife or fork J thi» 
 will rtK|nire atiuut two houis: mind it is not 
 done too much: when perfectly tender, take 
 out the meat and cut it off the l)ones, in 
 neat moutlifnis; ski.ii the broth, and strain 
 j it through a hie\e; if you prefer a ihicken- 
 i e t 8ou|<, put iknn- an i buttcH., as directed ia 
 the preceding ie-ei|.f; or put two tablo". 
 spo<inful.s of tin; f.tt yoiv have taken off the. 
 broth into a clean st^vvp^^it vvitli as muc^ 
 
SOUPS 
 
 210 
 
 SOUPS 
 
 flour as will make it into a paste j set this 
 over the fire, and stir them well together; 
 then pour in die brodi by degrees, stirring 
 it, and mixing it with the thickening; let 
 it simmer for another half hoar, and when 
 you have well skinuued it, and it is quite 
 ^raoodi, tlien strain it througli a tarais into 
 a clean stevvpan, put in the meat, with a 
 itable-spoonful of mushroom ketchup, a glass 
 of wine, and season it with salt. 
 
 Obs. — If die meat is cut off the bones, 
 you must have diree tails for a tureen, some 
 put an ox-cheek or tails in an eartlien 
 pan, with all die ingredients as above, and 
 eend diem to a slow oven for five or six 
 hours. 
 
 PEAS, GREEN. (1) A peck of 
 
 peas will make you a good tureen of soup. 
 In shelling them, put die old ones in one 
 basin, and the young ones in another, and 
 keep out a pint of them, and boil them 
 separately to put into your soup when it is 
 finished: put a large saucepan on the fire 
 half full of water ; when it boils, put the 
 peas in, widi a handful of salt; let them 
 boil till they are done enough, i. e. from 
 twenty to thirty minutes, according to their 
 age and size; dien drain Uiem in a colan- 
 der, and put them into a clean gallon stew- 
 pan, and three quarts of plain veal or mut- 
 ton broth (drawn from meat without any 
 Bj)ices or herlis, &c. which would overpow- 
 er the flavor of the soup) ; cover the stewpan 
 close, and set it over a slow fire to stew 
 gently for an hour ; add a tea-cupful of bread 
 cruml>s, and Uien rub it through a tamis in- 
 to another stewpan ; stir it with a wooden 
 spoon, and if it is too thick, add a little 
 more broth: have ready boiled as for eating, 
 a pint of young peas, and put them into die 
 soup ; season with a little sak and sugar. 
 
 Some cooks, while this soup is going on, 
 slice a couple of cucumbers (as you would 
 f^r eating) ; take out the seeds ; lay Uiem 
 on a ciodi to drain, and then flour them, 
 and fry Uiem a light brown in a little but- 
 t^r ; ptit Uiera into the soup the last thing 
 l>efoie it goes to table. 
 
 If the soup is not green enough, pound a 
 handful of pea-hulls or spinage, and squeeze 
 tjae juice through a cloth into the soup: some 
 leaves of mint may be added, if approved. 
 
 PEAS, GREEN. (2) Put a 
 
 pint of old green peas into diree quarts of 
 water, a slice of the crumb of bread, two 
 onions, a sprig of mint, some salt and pep- 
 per; boil them till the peas are perfectly 
 soft, then pulp them through a sieve ; have 
 ready two lettuces stewed tender in butter, 
 and a pint and a half of young green peas 
 Ijoiled; put them into the soup with a little 
 iipinach juice, and a quarter of a pint of 
 
 the juice of the youngest pea pods, and boil 
 it all together before serving. 
 
 PEAS, GREEN, WITHOUT 
 
 MEAT. Take a quart of green peas (keep 
 out half a ])int of the youngest ; boil them 
 separately, and put them in the soup when 
 it is finished) ; put them on in boiling water; 
 boil them tender, and dien pour off the wa- 
 ter, and set it by to make the soup with: put 
 the peas into a mortar, and pound them to 
 a mash ; then put them into two quarts of 
 the water you boiled the peas in; stir all 
 well together ; let it boil up for about five 
 minutes, and then rub it dirough a hair sieve 
 or tamis. If the peas are good, it w ill be 
 as thick and fine a vegetable soup as need 
 be sent to table 
 
 PEAS, OLD. (1) Put a pound 
 
 and a half of split peas on in four quaits of 
 water, with roast beef or mutton bones, and 
 a ham bone, two heads of celery, and four 
 onions, let them boil till the peas be suflli- 
 ciently soft to pulp through a sieve, strain it, 
 put it into the pot with pepper and sah, and 
 boil it nearly an hour. Two or three hand- 
 fuls of spinach, well washed and cut a little, 
 added when the soup is strained, is a great 
 improvement; and in the summer young 
 green peas in place of the spinach. A tea- 
 spoonful of celery seed, or essence of celery, 
 if celery is not to be had. 
 
 PEAS, OLD. (2) Boil in five 
 
 quarts of water one quart of split peas, an 
 ounce of butter, four pounds of beef, two 
 carrots, three turnips, four heads of celery, 
 three onions, some salt and black pepper; 
 boil them till the peas are dissolved and 
 will easily pulp, put it all tlumigh a sieve, 
 dien put the soup over the fire widi diree 
 ounces of butter and a table-s^ioonful of flour, 
 and boil a small bit of lean ham in it, till it 
 is time to serve; take it out before dishing, 
 and have ready some celery stewed in butter, 
 and ft-ied bread cut in dice, and dried mint 
 rubbed very fine, to send to table with it. 
 
 — PEAS, OLD. (3) Boil m four 
 
 quarts of water a shank of ham, or a piece 
 of bacon, and alwut half a pound of mutton, 
 or salt beef, and a pint of split pens ; boil 
 all together very gently till die peas are 
 quite soft, strain them through a hair sieve, 
 and bruise them with the back of a spoon till 
 all is pulped through, then boil die soup gent- 
 ly for one hour before serving. Thin slices 
 of bead toasted and cut in dice to !« served 
 with it, either upon a dish or in the soup ; 
 if in the soup, it should be fried in butter, 
 and dried mint rubl)ed fine and sent to table 
 in a small dish. It may \)e also made widi 
 four-pence worth of bones, boiled for some 
 
SOUPS 
 
 211 
 
 SOUPS 
 
 hours in four quarts of water, with a carrot, 
 a head of celery, three onions, some pepper 
 and sah, strained, and the next day the fat 
 taken off, and the peas boiled in the liquor 
 with a little bit of butter, till sufficiently ten- 
 der to pulp through a sieve. 
 
 PEAS, PLAIN. To a quart 
 
 of split peas, and two heads of celery (and 
 most cooks would put a large onion), put 
 three quarts of broth or soft water ; let tliem 
 simmer gently on a trivet over a slow fire 
 for three hours, stirring up every quarter of 
 an hour to prevent the peas burning at the 
 bottom of die soup-kettle (if the water boils 
 away, and the soup gets too thick, add some 
 boilmg water to it) ; when they are well sof- 
 tened, work them through a coarse sieve, 
 and then through a fine sieve or a tamis; 
 wash out your stewpan, and then retui-n the 
 soup into it, and give it a boil up ; take off 
 any scum that comes up, and it is ready. 
 Prepare fried bread, and dried mint, as di- 
 rected in Old Peas (2) and send them up 
 with it on two side dishes. 
 
 Obs. — This is an excellent family soup, 
 produced with very little trouble or expense. 
 
 PIGEON. (1) Have a strong beef 
 
 stock, highly seasoned, and if for rich soup, 
 take six or eight pigeons according to their 
 size, wash tliem clean, cut off the necks, pin- 
 ions, livers and gizzards, and put them into 
 the stock; quarter the pigeons and brown 
 them nicely; after having strained the stock, 
 put in the pigeons; let them boil till nearly 
 ready, which will be in about half an hour, 
 then thicken it with a little flour, rubbed 
 down in a tea-cupful of the soup, season it 
 with half a grated nutmeg, a tal)le-spoonful 
 of lemon juice or of vinegar, and one of 
 mushroom ketchup; let it boil a few minutes 
 after all these ingredients are put in, and 
 serve it with the pigeons in the tureen; a 
 better thickening than flour is to boil quite 
 tender two of the pigeons, take off all the 
 meat and pound it in a mortar, rub it through 
 a sieve, and put it, with the cut pigeons, 
 into the strained soup. To make partridge 
 soup, paitridges may be substituted for pig- 
 eons, when only four birds will be required ; 
 pound the breast of one. 
 
 PIGEON. (2) Take eight pig. 
 
 it boils, mix in a handful of bread crumba, 
 keep stirring them with a knife tjfl of a fine 
 brown; boil the whole pigeons till they be- 
 come tender in the stock witli the herbs, and 
 fried bread. If the soup be not sufficiently 
 hi»h seasoned, add more mixed spices anS 
 salt. 
 
 PORTABLE. Put on, in four 
 
 gallons of water, ten pounds of a shin of 
 beef, free from fat and skin, six pounds of a 
 knuckle of veal, and two fowls, break the 
 bones and cut the ftieat into small pieces, 
 season with one ounce of whole black pep- 
 per, quarter of an ounce of Jamaica pepper, 
 and tlie same of mace, cover the pot very 
 closely, and let it simmer for twelve or four- 
 teen hours, and then strain it. The follow- 
 ing day, take off the fat, and clear the jelly 
 from any sediment adhering to it; boil it 
 gently upon a stove, without covering the 
 saucepan, and stir it frecjuently till it be- 
 comes very thick and in lumps about the pan. 
 Put it into saucers about half full, and when 
 cold lay the cakes upon flannel to dry before 
 the file or in die sun ; keep them in a tin 
 box, with white paper between each cake. 
 About an ounce weight will make a pint of 
 rich soup ; pour boiling water upon it with 
 a little s:ilt, and stir it till it dissolves. It 
 also answers well for gravies and all brown 
 sauces. 
 
 FOR THE POOR, Wash an 
 
 ox-head very clean ; break the bones, and 
 cut the meat in pieces; put it on in thirteen 
 gallons of water, and a peck and a half of 
 potatoes, half a peck of turnips, the same 
 quantity of onions, and some carrots ; peel and 
 cut them all down. A handfiil of pot herbs, 
 I and two quarts of oatmeal; season with 
 pepper and salt. Cover the pot closely, and 
 let it stew till the next morning; add as 
 much hot water as may have wasted in boil- 
 ing, and let it stew for some hours longer, 
 when it will be fit for use. This soup will 
 \ye found very good for a family dinner. 
 
 eons, cut down two of tlie oldest, and put 
 them, with the necks, pinions, livers, and 
 gizzards of the others, into four quarts of 
 water; let it boil till the substance be extrac- 
 ted, and strain it; season the pigeons with 
 mixed spices and salt, and truss them as for 
 stewing ; pick and wash clean a handful of 
 pai-sley, chives or young onions, and a good 
 t^eal of spinach ; chop them ; put iiv a frying- 
 pan a quarter of a pound of butter, and when 
 
 QUEEN. Pound in a marble 
 
 mortar the white meat of three cold roasted 
 fowls, and half a pound of sweet almonds 
 blanched ; add a little cream whilst pound- 
 ing. Boil this with four quarts of well-sea- 
 soned beef stock, then strain it, and just 
 before serving stir in a pint of cream. 
 
 SANTE. (1) Peel four large 
 
 onions, cut them small, with four white let- 
 tuces, a handful of spinach, and a slice of 
 grated bread. Stew all these ingredients 
 for an hour in a quart of broth and a quarto: 
 of a pound of butter, then add three pints- 
 more of broth, skim ofl" all the fat, and boil 
 it a quarter of an hour, season with pepper 
 
SOUPS 
 
 212 
 
 SOUPS 
 
 and salt. Before serving, adrl half a pint 
 of good cream. A pint of green peas, ad- 
 ded with tlie other vegetables, is a great im- 
 provement. 
 
 SANTE. (2) Lay six or eight 
 
 alices of lean ham, witli some heef ovei' them, 
 at the battom of a stewpan, then some veal, 
 with some partri.lgerlegs, or moor game, or 
 chicken, salt, |)eppercortis, Jamaica pepper, 
 three or f.Hir cloves, a bay-leaf, and (me 
 clove of garlic; let the whole stew together 
 till it takes a tine brown color, then (ill it up 
 with half water, and half good beef stock ; 
 • add three heads of celery, two good turnips, 
 parsley, lemon thyme, two carrots, three 
 large onions, and a small bnnch of winter 
 savofy; when the whole is thoroughly well 
 done, pass it through a lawn sieve into a ba- 
 sin. Cut two good-sized turnips and three 
 large leeks, into pieces, about the thickness 
 of a (juill, and an inch and a half iong; fry 
 these together of a nice brown color: next, 
 shred two cabbage-lettuces, (-elery, endive, 
 sorrel, and chervil ; and slew them down on 
 a very sl.»w fire with a small bit of butter. 
 When done, put them in a sieve with the 
 turnips; then put them into a soup-pot, and 
 pour the soup from the basin over them; set 
 it on a stove, skim if, and as soon a< it boils, 
 set it on one side, and let it simmer for two 
 hour-s very gently; take the crumb of a 
 couple <;f French rolls, and cut if into round 
 pie<;es, which brown in the oven, and |)nt 
 them into the tureen, and pour the soup upon 
 them. If you think proper, it may l)e clari- 
 fied, the same as od»er clear soups; but the 
 real Soup de jS'an/c ought not to be clarified. 
 
 SIMPLE. Cut small one pound 
 
 of carrots, one |X)un:l of tiu-nips, half a 
 p<iund of onions, one lettuce, a little celery, 
 and a handful ol' parsley; stew them for 
 tiventy minutes with a (jtiarter of a pound 
 of butter, scmie salt an I |)ep|M'r; then put 
 them into three (|narts of stock, made with 
 two pounds of veal, and add one (|uart of 
 green peas, and let it stew for fhiee hours. 
 Press it through a sieve, and boil it up before 
 sending it to table. 
 
 SPRIIVG. Put on in four quarts 
 
 of water a knuckle of veal cut down, and a 
 quarter of a pound of lean ham, or a gam- 
 mon of bacon; a quart of gieen split peas; 
 cut small three or f mr onions, three turnips, 
 a little parsley, tliyme, celery, and one leek ; 
 stew them all together till the peas aie very 
 soft ; take out the meal and press the le- 
 niainder through a fi'ie sieve; season the 
 soup wilh pepiMir and s:df. Cut small like 
 |ieas a Iniiich of tiie tn^s of aspaiag is, the 
 iiearts of two or tiiree cabb;ig.!S, culling oH' 
 the tup part and tlie outside leaves, and a 
 
 little green mint, stew them till tensor, 
 kee{)ing them of a good green, and add them 
 to the soup a (|uarfer of an hour bcfoie serv- 
 ing. If it shoidd not be green enongh, 
 pound some spinach, s(jueeze the juice 
 through a cloth, put about a fiuarter of a 
 pint inl(» the tureen, and pour in the soup, 
 'I'his is the best method to make gieen peas 
 soup of a good color. 
 
 STOVE OR SPL^ACH. Boil 
 
 in two quarts of water three sliced onions. 
 Pick and clean as iinicli spinach as will 
 make two large dishes, paiboil and put it in 
 a cullender, to let the bitter water drip from 
 it; let cold water run upon it dn- a minute 
 or two, and then press out the water. Knead 
 two ounces of fresh butter, with a table- 
 spoonfnl and a half of flour, mix it w ith the 
 spinach, which boil fur fifteen minutes in the 
 wafer and onions, then put in half a pint of 
 cream or good milk, some salt and pepper, 
 boil it for fifteen minutes more. In the 
 season of green peas, a quart added with 
 the spinach is a great impro\euient. It is 
 common to boil a lamb's head and pluck 
 with the soup, and send them to table in the 
 tureen. The soup is then calle<l Lamb's 
 Stove ; but with the peas it is quite as good 
 without. 
 
 VEGETABLE. Pare and cut 
 
 small one dozen of common-sized onions, 
 five large yellow turnip's, two heads of celeiy, 
 and the red part of three large carrots ; wash 
 and put them in a stewpan with tw(» oimces 
 of butter, cover it cKjsely; and when the 
 vegetables are a little soft, add to them four 
 (juarts of well-seasoned giavy soup made of 
 roast beef Ixmes, and let ii stew four or five 
 hours; rub it through a tauuny, put it on the 
 fire, boil and skim it lx?fore serving. 
 
 WINTER VEGETABLE. (I) 
 
 Peel and slice six large onions, six |)otatoes, 
 and lour tiunips; fry them in half a |M)und of 
 butter or very ftesh dripping; toast a crust 
 of bread brown and haul, put it, with two or 
 three heads of celery cut small, some herbs, 
 pepper, and salt, with the fii'd vegelablr:^, 
 into five pints of water, to stew gently for 
 four hours, then strain it through a sieve, 
 add a little cairot and celery cut small, and 
 some chopped parsley, one anchovy or a red 
 herring, and a little cayenne; lx»il it till the 
 vegetables are tender. 
 
 WINTER VEGETABLE. (2) 
 
 To every gallon of water allow, when cut 
 d(»wn small, a (juart of the following vegeta- 
 bles; e<iual (|uaulities of tiirni|s, carrots, and 
 potatoes, tlu<!e tiiiicms, two heads of celery, 
 and a bumh of sweet heibs; fiy them brown 
 ill a quarter of a pound of butter, add tlie 
 
SOUPS 
 
 213 
 
 SOUPS 
 
 water with salt and pepper, and boil it till 
 reduced to three quarts, and serve it with 
 filed toasted bread. 
 
 VENISON. Boil down in five 
 
 quaits of water two poiuids of a shank of 
 veal, or fowl, and five pounds of the breast 
 of venison cut small; two oc three onions 
 chopped, some whole white pepper and salt, 
 witli a quarter of a pound of lean ham. 
 Let it stew till it be completely boiled down, 
 when all the strength will be extracted ; rub 
 it tlirough a sieve, thicken it with a little 
 butter, kneaded in flour, and add a pint of 
 Madeira, and boil it for a quarter of an 
 hour or twenty minutes. 
 
 BROWN VENISON. Cut in 
 
 small pieces six or seven pounds of the 
 breast of venison, put it in a stewpan with 
 two or three ounces of butter; cover it 
 closely, stir it once or twice, and let it stew 
 an hour. Mix four quarts of cold Avater 
 with a pint and a half of the blood, put it 
 on the fire in another stewpan, and stir it 
 constantly till it boil ; tlien add the stew to 
 it with an onion minced small, and a whole 
 carrot, some salt, black and Jamaica pep- 
 per. If the meat be young, let it boil gent- 
 ly for two hours ; if old, two and a half will 
 be necessai-y. A little before serving, take 
 out the carrot and all the bones, leaving a 
 little of the meat; mix in half a pint of 
 Port wine, and let it boil a short time. It 
 may be thickened with a little flour and 
 buttei". 
 
 VERMICELLI. The 
 
 be- 
 
 fore it is required make four quarts of good 
 stock, and boil in it one carrot, one tiu-nip, 
 four onions, one or two parsley roots, three 
 blades of mace, salt, and some white pepper ; 
 strain it, and, lielure using, take off all the 
 fat ; boil in some of the liciuor the crumb of 
 three French rolls till soft enough to mash 
 smooth; boil the soup and stir well in the 
 mashed rolls; boil it for a quarter of an 
 hour, and, before serving, add the yolks of 
 two eggs beaten witli thi-ee table-spoonfuls 
 of cream; boil in water two or three ounces 
 of vermicelli for fifteen or twenty minutes, 
 strain and put it into the tureen, and pom" 
 the soup upon it. 
 
 — . — WHITE. (1) Boil together a 
 knuckle of veal, a fowl, or two chickens 
 skinned, a carrot, a turnip, an onion, some 
 salt, and a little whole white pepper; take 
 out die chickens when tender, cut them in 
 joints, and add them to the soup when 
 strained, beat up the yolks of nine eggs, mix 
 tliem with a pint of cream and a table-spoon- 
 ful of well-l)oiled lice; stir it gradually into 
 the soup, and heat it gently before serving. 
 
 A cow-heel that haa been previously boiled, 
 cut up in pieces, may be used instead of the 
 chickens. 
 
 WHITE. (2) Take a good 
 
 knuckle of veal, or two or three short shanks, 
 boil it about four hours, with some whole 
 white pepper, a litde mace, salt, two onions, 
 and a small bit of lean ham ; strain it, and 
 when cold take off all the fat and sediment ; 
 l)eat up six yolks of eggs and mix them with 
 a pint of good cream, then pour the boiling 
 soup upon it by degrees, stirring it well, 
 and if it is liked, add the best part of the 
 gristles. 
 
 WHITE. (3) Put.on in four 
 
 quarts of water, a knuckle of veal, six pounds 
 weight, a quarter of a pound of lean ham or 
 bacon, two slices of the crumb of bread, one 
 ounce of blanched sweet almonds, put in 
 whole ; six middling-sized onions, two heads 
 of celery, some whole white pepper, three 
 blades of mace, a bunch of parsley, and a 
 sprig of thyme; stew all these gently for 
 eight hours, strain it, and when cold take 
 off all the fat; boil it, and just before serv- 
 ing, take it off the fire, and stir in very 
 gradually a pint of thick cream. 
 
 WHITE. (4) Boil in four 
 
 quarts of water four pounds of veal, and a 
 fowl, with some whole white pepper, a little 
 mace, and three middling-sized onions whole, 
 and a bunch of parsley; let it boil three 
 hours, strain it, and put it on again to get 
 quite hot, and just before serving, stir in 
 gradually half a pint of cream with the yolks 
 of three eggs well beaten. Do not let it boil, 
 as diat makes the eggs curdle. 
 
 WHITE. (5) Stew in three quarts 
 
 of boiling water, till quite tender, a knuckle 
 of veal, with a quarter of a pound of whole 
 rice, tliree whole onions, a bunch of parsley, 
 a little sweet. marjoram, and two or three 
 blades of mace, and some salt ; a little before 
 the soup is strained, add two anchovies; 
 strain through a hair sieve and tlien through 
 a silk one, or tammy, put it again upon the 
 fire, and stir in half a pint of rich cream, or 
 a pint of milk widi tlie yolks of two eggs 
 beat up in it; let it be hot but not boiling. 
 If it is required to be richer, boil a fowl m 
 the stock, with two ounces of pounded blanch- 
 ed svveet almonds. 
 
 WHITE. (6) Put on in five 
 
 quarts of water, four pounds of a shank of 
 veal, break the bone well, let it simmer till 
 it be reduced nearly half; boil a tea-cupful 
 of whole rice till very tender, pulp it through 
 a cullender, strain the liquor, and add die 
 rice, seJison with salt and white pepper, let 
 
SPA 
 
 it simmer for nearly an hour, and add, a 
 iittle li<-fore serving, six yolks ot eggs beaten 
 «xU-emeiy well. 
 
 SOUR KROUT. The best cabbage for 
 this purpose is the drum, or vviiite Stras- 
 burgh. and it should not be used till it has 
 endured some severe frost; the stoi'ks are 
 then cut into halves, and shred donn as line 
 as |x»ssible with a knife, or m<jre properly 
 with a plane made in the form of a cucumlier 
 slice. Burn a little juniper in a ca&k or tub 
 which is |->erfectly sound and clean, and put 
 a little leaven into the seam round tlie bot- 
 -tom, — tlour and vinegar may be substituted 
 for the leaven; dien put in three or four 
 handfuls of cabbage, a good sprinkling of 
 salt, and a teji-spoonfulol" caraway seed, and 
 press this hard with a wooden mallet; next 
 add another layer of cabbage, with sJilt and 
 caraway seed, as at first; and so on in the 
 same manner until the cask I* full, ptessing 
 down each layer firmly as you advance. A 
 good deal of water will come to the t(ip, of 
 which a part may be taken off. The ca.>k 
 being ftdl, put on the head so as to press 
 upon the cabbage, and place it in a warm 
 foliar to ferment; when it has worked well 
 for diree weeks, ttike off the sciun which 
 will have gathered on the top, and lay a 
 clean cloth on the kront; replace the head, 
 and put two or dnee heavy stones upon it. 
 The juice should always stand upon die top. 
 Thus in a good (Cellar it will keep for yeais. 
 When to be dressed, it is bulled for five or 
 «ix hours in water, or stewed with a little 
 gravy, and may Ix^ also substituied for a 
 crust over a beef-steak pie, when cheese is 
 grated over it. 
 
 SOUR KROUT WITH PIKE. When 
 llie krout is boiled, clean a large pike, 
 scrape and cut it into neat |)icces, dip them 
 into the beaten yolk of an egg, dien into 
 bread crumbs, and fry them of a nice brown ; 
 r«b some butter upon a dish, and put into 
 it a layer of krout, and some grated cheese, 
 then a layer of pike, and a little sour cream ; 
 tlien krout, and so on till the dish tie full. 
 On the top put some bits of butter, and 
 some good brcjth or gravy ; strew crumlis 
 of bread thickly over it, and bake it half 
 an iiour. 
 
 SPANISH PUFFS. Put into a sauce- 
 pan, half a pint of water and a quarter of 
 a p<jund of butter; stir it till it boils, and 
 mix in four table-spoonfuls of flour; stir it 
 well togedier, and add six yolks and four 
 whites of eggs, two at a time; let it co<jl, 
 and, with a dessert-spoon, drop it into lioil- 
 it)g clarified dri|;ping or lard. 
 
 To make ginger puffs, a tea-spoonful of 
 pounded ginger may Ix; added. 
 
 214 SPI 
 
 SPARE RIB ROASTED. See Pork. 
 
 SPICE FOR WHITE SAUCE. Pound 
 two ounces of pepper, a quarter of an ounce 
 of inace, grate one nutmeg, and the ixiel of 
 one lemon; mix all logeUier in a bottle. 
 
 SPICE FOR GENERAL USE. One 
 
 ounce and a half of pep|x;r, cinnamon, nut- 
 meg, and ginger, half an ounce each, and 
 eight cloves; pound and mix all together in 
 a Ixntle. A little of each kind of spice 
 should be well dried, pounded, and kept 
 separately in small bottles, which should be 
 labelled. 
 
 SPINACH, TO DRESS. Pick the 
 
 spinach with great care; strip the leaves 
 from die stalks, and wash it in several wa- 
 ters, till perfectly clean; boil the spinach in 
 salt and water ; drain it well; jxiund it in 
 a moriar, and put it into a slewpan with a 
 little butter and broth, and let it stew over 
 a slow fire f »r three-(]uarters of an hour, till 
 it l)e very dry; then add a quarter of a 
 pound of fiesh butter, with salt and grated 
 nutmeg; woik the spinach well, till it is 
 thick, but take care die butler does not 
 turn to oil. Gaini.sh wilh fried toasts of 
 bread, which may lie cut like cock's combs, 
 or in any other form. 
 
 SPINACH, TO BOIL. (1) Pick it very 
 carefully, and wash it thoroughly two or 
 three times in plenty of cold water, then put 
 it on in lioiling water with a little salt; let 
 it boil nearly twenty minutes, put it into a 
 cullender, hold it under the water cock, and 
 let the water run on it for a minute; put it 
 into a saucepan, lieat it peifectly smooth 
 with a lieater or with a wooden spoon, add 
 a bit ( f butter, and three table-spoonfuls of 
 cream; mix it well together, and make it 
 hot before serving. When dished, it is 
 scored in squares with tlie back of a knife. 
 
 SPINACH, TO BOIL. (2) After 
 Ijeing nicely picked and well washed, put it 
 into a saucepan, witii no more water dian 
 adheiestoit; add a little salt; cover the 
 pan closely, and boil it till tender, frequent- 
 ly shaking it ; beat it quite smoodi, adding 
 butler and cream, and make it (piite hot. 
 Spinach may be served wilh p<jaclied eggs, 
 or fi ied sausages laid on it. 
 
 When the spinach is bitter, it is prefera- 
 ble to Ixiil it in water. 
 
 SPINACH TOASTS. Boil some spi- 
 nach f<)r a (juarter of an hour; then scjueezo 
 out all die water, chop it small, and put it 
 into a inoitar, wilh three or four s[K>onfuis 
 of apple marmalade, tlie yolks u( four hard* 
 boilwl, and three raw eggs, two biscuiti; 
 
SP R 
 
 215 
 
 STO 
 
 eoaHed in cream, sugar, and a pinch of salt; 
 pound all tliese togetiier to a |)a.<te, put it 
 into a fiitih, and mix with it a few dry cur- 
 rant:^, and thiee or faur spoorfiiis of melted 
 butter. Cut sume slices of bread half an 
 inch thick, four inches long, and two broad ; 
 toast them nicely, and spread the spinach, 
 &c. over them, to the thickness of half an 
 inch, wash each over with white of egg; 
 place the toasts on a baking-tin (well l)ntter- 
 ed) and bake them for half an hour. When 
 done, grate nutmeg, and stjueeze orange-juice 
 over them, and serve. 
 
 SPRATS, TO BAKE. Clean them; 
 take off the heads; put tiiem into a deep 
 dish, and C(»ver them with vinegar and wa- 
 ter, e«jMal (|nantities of each, 'I'o a quart of 
 liquid, put half an ounce of whole black pep- 
 per, a little allspice, two or three bay-leaves, 
 some salt, and an onion. Tie paper over 
 the dish, and bake diem in a cool oven, or 
 do them over a sluw fire in a water bath. 
 Herrings may l)e done in this way. Both 
 will keep good some weeks. 
 
 SPRATS, STEWED. Wash and dry 
 your sprats, atid lay them as level as you 
 can in a stewpan, and l)e(ween every layer 
 of sprats put three |)eppercorns,and as many 
 allspice, with a few grains of sidt; barely 
 cover them with vinegar, and stew them one 
 hour over a slow fire; they nnjst not boil: 
 a bay-leaf is s(jmetimes added. Herrings or 
 mackerel may be stewed the same way. 
 
 SPRATS, BROILED. Ifyouhavenot 
 a sprat gridiron, gel a piece of pointed iron 
 wire as thick as packdnead, and as long as 
 your gri<liron is broad; run this through the 
 heads ol" your sprats, sprinkle a little flour 
 and salt over them, put your gridiron over a 
 clear, (piick fire, turn them in about a couple 
 of minutes; when die other side is brown, 
 draw out the wire, and send up the fish widi 
 melted butter in a cup. 
 
 Obs. — 'J'liat sprats are young herrings, is 
 evident by tlieir anatomy, in which there is 
 no fierceptible difference. They appear verv 
 soon after the herrings are gone, and seeiii 
 to be the spawn just vivified. 
 
 SPRIiVG FRUIT— ^ Mock Goose- 
 berry Sauce for Mackerel, fyc. Make a 
 mannilade of three dozen sticks of ihnliarb, 
 sweetened with moist sugar; pass it through 
 a hair sieve, and serve up in a sauce-boat. 
 
 SPRING FRUIT TART. Prepare 
 rhubarb as alwve: cut it into small pieces 
 into a tart-dish; sweeten with loaf-sugar I 
 pounded; cover it with a gix/dshoit crust) 
 paste; sift a Utile sugar over the top, and j 
 
 bake half an hour in a rather hot oven ; 
 up cold. 
 
 SPRING CREAM, or Mock Goose-^ 
 berry Fool. Prepare a marmalade as di» 
 rected for the pudding: to wlii'^h add a pint 
 of good thick cream ; serve up in glasses, or 
 in a deep dish. If wanted in a shape, dis- 
 solve two ounces of isinglass in a little water; 
 strain it through a tamis, and when nearly 
 cold put it to the cream ; pour it into a jelly 
 mould, and when set, turn out into a dish,, 
 and serve up plain. 
 
 SPRING FRUIT SHERBET. Boil 
 
 six or eight sticks of rliubai b (quite clean): 
 ten minutes in a (piart of water; stniin the 
 li(|Uor dirough a tamis into a jug, widi the 
 peel of a lemon cut very thin, an:l two table- 
 spoonfuls of daiified sugar; let it stand five 
 or six hours, and it is fit to diink. 
 
 SPRUCE BEER. See Beer. 
 
 SPROUTS AND YOUNG GREENS. 
 
 The leceipt for cabbnges will answer as well 
 for sprouts, only they will lie boiled enough 
 in fifteen or twenty minutes. 
 
 STEAKS OR CHOPS. See Chops. 
 
 STOCK, FOR BROWN OR WHITE 
 SOUPS. Take a povind of scate, five floun- 
 ders, and two pounds of eels ; cut them in 
 pieces, put them into a stewpan, with as 
 much water as will cover them, a little inace,^ 
 an onion stuck with cloves, a head of celery, 
 two parsley roots sliced, some pepper and 
 salt, and a bunch of sweet heibs; cover 
 close ; strain it off for use; if it is fir brown 
 soup, fry the fish brown in butter, and tlien 
 put it to stew. 
 
 STOCK, FOR GRAVY SOUP OR 
 GRAVY. Cut a knuckle of veal into sli- 
 ces, slice also a pound of lean beef, and a 
 pound of die lean of gammon of bacon ; put 
 these into a stewpan, with three scmped 
 carrots, a couple of onions, a couple of tur- 
 nips, two heads of celery, and two quarts 
 of water. Let the meat stew till cpiite ten- 
 der, but it must not be brown. When thus 
 prepared it will serve either f()r soup, or 
 brown or white gravy ; if for brown gravy, 
 it must be fiist colored in the usual manner. 
 
 STOMACHIC TINCTURE. Peruvian 
 
 bark, bruised, one ounce and a half, orange- 
 peel, do. one ounce, brandy, or proof spirit, 
 one pint. Let these ingiedients steep for 
 ten days, shaking the lK)ttle every day; let 
 it remain (juiet two days, and then decant 
 tlie clear liquor. Dose — a lea-spoouful ia 
 
STR 
 
 216 
 
 STU 
 
 a wine-glass of water, twice a day, when 
 you feel languid, i. e. when the stomach is 
 empty, about an hour before dinner, and in 
 the evening. This agreeable aromatic tonic 
 is an effective help to concoction; and we 
 are under personal obligations to it, for fre- 
 quently restoring our stomach to good tem- 
 per, and procuring us good appetite and good 
 digestion. In low nervous affections arising 
 from a languid circulation, and when the 
 stomach is in a state of debility from age, 
 intemperance, or other causes, this is a most 
 acceptable restorative. 
 
 N. B. — Tea made with dried and bruised 
 orange-peel, in the same way as common 
 tea, and drank with milk and sugai-, has 
 been taken by nervous and dyspeptic per- 
 sons widi gi-eat benefit. Sucking a bit of 
 dried orange-peel about an hour before din- 
 ner, when the stomach is empty, is very 
 grateful and strengthening to it. 
 
 STRAWBERRY CREAM. Put six 
 ounces of stravvloerry jam to a pint of cream, 
 pulp it tlnough a sieve ; add to it the juice 
 of a lemon, whisk it fast at the edge of a 
 dish, lay the froth on a sieve, add a little 
 more juice of lemon, and when no more froth | 
 will rise, put the cream into a dish, or into | 
 glasses; and place tlie froth upon it, well 
 drained. j 
 
 STRAWBERRIES AND RASPBER- 
 RIES. From either of these fruits agree- 
 able wine may be obtained, by following tlie 
 rules given for making currant wine ; but it 
 will be found a cheaper and a better meth- 
 od, to add a little sirup or juice of the fruit 
 to any flavorless currant wine; when the 
 fermentation begins to decline, currant wine 
 may also be flavored with odoriferous flow- 
 ers, such as cowslip, elder, or mignionetle. 
 The (juality of roughness is communicated 
 by catechu and keno, chips of oak and of 
 beech, and also the sloe; a small quantity 
 of these, or of the flowers, is put into the 
 cask when the first fermentation is over, and 
 as soon a? the wine has acquired the desired 
 flavor, it is racked and fined. The flavor- 
 ing articles, such as orris-root, cloves, gin- 
 ger, sweet and biltar almonds, are put into 
 a muslin bag, and hung in the cask for a 
 few days, during the stage of insensible fer- 
 mentation, that is, after the first fermentation 
 has ceased; care being taken to taste the 
 liquor frequently, so that the flavoring mat- 
 ter may be withdrawn as soon as it has pro- 
 duced the desired effect. 
 
 STRAWBERRIES, POUNDED, for 
 
 Strawberry Cream. Take equal 
 
 weight of sugar and of strawberries ; pound 
 
 and sift the sugar, add it to the strawberries, j 
 
 and pound them in a marble mortar till per- I STUFFING FOR VEAL, ROAST 
 
 fectly smooth. Put it into jars, and tie 
 them over closely with paper. It will keep 
 good for several months. 
 
 STRAWBERRY SOUFFLE. Take 
 
 a basket of very fine strawberries, pick, and 
 crush them, and tlien rub them through a 
 sieve. Whisk the whites of eighteen eggs 
 to a firm froth, to which add a pound and a 
 half of powder sugar, stir them together as 
 lightly as possible ; then mix them witli the 
 strawberries. Pour the whole into a crotis- 
 tade, and bake it for an hour in a moderate 
 oven ; when done, glaze it, and serve. 
 
 STRAWBERRY TART. Pick, and 
 put into a basin two quarts of the best scar- 
 let strawberries, then add to tliem half a 
 pint of cold thick clarified sugar, and half 
 a pint of Madeira, with the juice of two or 
 three lemons ; mix tliese well together, with- 
 out breaking the strawbenics, and put them 
 into a puff paste, previously baked; be care- 
 ful to keep diem very cool. 
 
 STRING BEANS. See French Beans. 
 
 STUFFING WITHOUT MEAT. Sea- 
 son a quarter of a pound of finely-minced 
 laeef suet, and an eciual quantity of grated 
 bread, with grated nutmeg, lemon-peel, lem- 
 on thyme, and parsley, salt, and pepper; 
 mix it well together, and bind it with a 
 well-lieaten yolk of an egg, when it may be 
 used for stufiing veal and fowl. 
 
 STUFFING FOR TURKEY OR 
 FOWL. Wash a quart of oystei-s in their 
 own liquor, strain it, and put into it die 
 oysters, with a litde mace, whole pepper, 
 and lemon-peel ; when par!x)iled, chop small 
 a dozen and a half, add an equal weight of 
 grated bread, twice the (luantity of finely- 
 minced beef suet, the yolks of three hard- 
 lK)iled eggs, one anchovy, a little salt, pep- 
 per, nutmeg, lemon-peel, and some minced 
 parsley; bind it with the beaten yolks of 
 two eggs. For the sauce, boil with the 
 liquor of the oysters, a pint of white stock, 
 half a pint of white wine, one anchovy, 
 pepper, salt, and nutmeg; strain it, and 
 add a quarter of a pound of butter rolled in 
 flour, beat it up with tlie remainder of the 
 oysters. 
 
 STUFFING FOR A HARE. Parboil 
 the liver, and mince it ; add an equal quan- 
 tity of grated bread, double the quantity of 
 fat bacon chopped, a bit of butter the size 
 of a walnut. Season witli pepper, salt, nut- 
 meg, chopped lemon thyme, and parsley; 
 bind with an egg beaten. 
 
STU 
 
 217 
 
 SUG 
 
 Turkey, Fowl, &c. Mince a quarter 
 of a pound of beef suet (beef marrow is bet- 
 ter), the same weight of bread crumbs, two 
 draclims of parsley leaves, a draclun and a 
 half of sweet marjoram or lemon thyme, and 
 the same of grated lemon-peel and onion 
 cliopped as fine as possible, a little pepper 
 and salt ; pound thoroughly together with the 
 yolk and white of two eggs, and secure it 
 m the veal with a skewer, or sew it in with 
 a bit of thread. Make some of it into balls 
 or sausages; flour them, and boil, or fry 
 tliem, and send them up as a garnish, or in 
 a side dish, with roast poultry, veal, or cut- 
 lets, &c. 
 
 N. B. — This is about the quantity for a 
 turkey poult: a very large turkey will take 
 ijearly twice as much. To the above may 
 be acided an ounce of dressed ham ; or use 
 equal parts of the above stuffing and pork 
 sausage meat poimded well together. 
 
 Obs. — Good stuffing has always been con- 
 sidered a chief thing in cookery: it has given 
 immortality to 
 
 "Puor Roffer Foviler,whn 'd a generous mind, 
 Nor would submit to have his hand contin'd, 
 Bui aime I at all, — } et never could excel 
 In any thing but stuffing of his veal." 
 
 STUFFING FOR HARE. Two oun- 
 ces of beef suet chopped fine ; three ounces 
 of fine bread crumbs; parsley, a drachm; 
 eschalot, half a drachm ; a drachm of mar- 
 joram, lemon thyme, or winter savory; a 
 drachm of grated lemon-peel, and the same 
 of pepper and salt: mix these with the white 
 and yolk of an egg; do not make it thin — 
 it must be of cohesive consistence: if your 
 stuffing is not stiff enough, it will be good 
 for nothing: put it in the hare, and sew it 
 up. If the liver is quite sound, you may 
 parboil it, and mince it very fine, and add 
 it to the above. 
 
 STURGEON, BAKED. Clean, and 
 take the skin from a small sturgeon; split it 
 along the belly, without separating it. Lay 
 it in a large baking dish, season it with 
 salt, pepper, pounded sweet herbs; moisten 
 with oil, lemon-juice, and a bottle of white 
 wine. Put it in the oven, baste it frequent- 
 ly; make it a nice color, and serve it with 
 its own gravy. 
 
 STURGEON, FRESH, TO BROIL. 
 
 Cut it into cutlets; rub them with the yolk 
 of an egg beat up; strew them over with 
 sotne parsley, minced very fine, and mixed 
 with grated bread crumbs, pepper, and salt ; 
 put them into pieces of white paper buttered, 
 and broil them gently. Sauces; — oyster, 
 melted butter, and anchovy. 
 
 STURGEON, FRESH. 
 19 
 
 The best mode 
 
 of dressing this, is to have it cut in thio 
 slices like veal cutlets, and broiled, and rob- 
 bed over with a bit of butter and a little 
 pepper, and served very hot, and eaten with 
 a squeeze of lemon-juice. Great care, how- 
 ever, must lie taken to cut off the skin bo- 
 fore it is broiled, as the oil in the skin, if 
 burned, imparts a disgusting flavor to the 
 fish. The flesh is very fine, and comee 
 nearer to veal, perhaps, than even turtle. 
 Sturgeon is frequently plentiful and reason- 
 able in the London shops. We prefer this 
 mode of dressing it to the more savory one 
 of stewing it in rich gravy, like carp, &C. 
 which overpowers the peculiar flavor of die 
 fish. 
 
 STURGEON, ROASTED. Take a 
 
 large piece of sturgeon, or a whole small 
 one, clean and skin it properly ; lard it with 
 eel and anchovies, and marinade it in a 
 white wine marinade. Fasten it to the 
 spit, and roast it, basting fieciuently with 
 the marinade sti'ained. Let the fish be a 
 nice color, and serve with a pepper sauce. 
 
 SUET TO KEEP FOR A TWELVE- 
 MONTH. Choose the firmest part, and 
 pick it free from skin and veins. Put it 
 into a saucepan, and set it at some distance 
 fi-om the fire, in order that the suet may 
 melt without frjing, or it will taste disagree- 
 able. When it is melted, pour it into a pan 
 of cold water. When it has caked quite 
 hard, wipe it very dry, fold it in fine paper, 
 and then in a linen bug, and keep it in a 
 dry, but not in a hot place. When you wish 
 to use it, scrape it fine, and it will make a 
 nice crust, either with or without butter. 
 
 SUET MILK. Cut into very small 
 shavings one ounce of fi-esh beef suet; dis- 
 solve it slowly over the fire in one pint of 
 milk, together widi a bit of lemon-peel and 
 cinnamon; sweeten with pounded loaf sugar. 
 
 SUET DUMPLINGS. This batter 
 should be made the same as for suet ptid- 
 ding, (second receipt), but much thicker, let- 
 your cloth be wetted, shake it all over with 
 flour, and tie up in several parts of the ck>th, 
 as much as it will hold, two or three spoon- 
 fuls of batter. Or you may make the batter 
 as usual, and put it in tea-cups, well butter- 
 ed ; tie them in cloths, and boil an hour. 
 
 SUGAR, TO CLARIFY. To every 
 
 three pounds of loaf sugar, allow the beaten 
 white of one egg, and a pint and a half of 
 water ; break the sugar small, put it into a 
 nicely-cleaned brass pan, and pour the water 
 over it ; let it stand sometime before it be 
 put upon the fire ; then add the beaten whites 
 of the eggs ; stir it till the sugar be entirely 
 
SWE 
 
 218 
 
 SWE 
 
 (lifieolved, and when it boils up, pour in a 
 quarter of a pint of cold water; let it boil 
 up a second time; take it off the fire and let 
 it settle for fifteen minutes; carefully take 
 off all the scum; put it on the fire, and boil 
 it till sufficiently thick, or if required, till 
 candy high; in order to ascertain which, 
 drop a little from a spoon into a small jar 
 of cold water, and if it become quite hard, 
 it is then sufficiently done; or dip the ihevil 
 into the sugar, plunge it into cold water, 
 draw oflT the sugar which adheres to the 
 stick, and if it be hard and snaps, the fruit 
 to be preserved must be instantly put in and 
 boiled. 
 
 SUGAR ORNAMENTS. 
 amel. 
 
 See Car- 
 
 SUGAR RUFFS. A pound of pounded 
 and sifted loaf sugar beaten well with the 
 whites of three eggs, and flavored with oil 
 of cinnamon, lemons, or orange-flower wa- 
 ter, and baked in the same way as the 
 meringues, served in a napkin, or used to 
 garnish dishes of preserves. 
 
 SUGAR, TO BOIL. To every pound 
 of sugar allow half a pint of water; stir it 
 over the fire till the sugar be entirely dissolv- 
 ed; when it first boils up, pour in a little 
 cold water, and when it boils a second time, 
 take it off the fire ; let it settle ten minutes, 
 carefully scum it, and boil it for half an hour 
 or a little longer, and then put in the fruit. 
 
 SWEETBREADS, Italian Attk- 
 LETS. Blanch some nice sweetbreads, and 
 stew them in a well-seasoned gravy, made 
 of meat and vegetables; when cold, cut 
 them into pieces of nearly an inch square, 
 put them into a satice d'attelets, and let 
 them cool. With silver skewers, skewer 
 the sweetbreads, and a bit of ready-dressed 
 caiPs udder alternately; make them all as 
 much as possible of an equal size, and of a 
 square form. Moisten them with the sauce, 
 and cover them with grated bread, then 
 dip them into four well beaten eggs, strew 
 over them some more grated bread, and 
 level it with a knife; fry them of a fine 
 brown, and serve with an Italian sauce, 
 white or brown. 
 
 If the attelets are ready before they are 
 required to be fried, strew grated biead 
 over the cover of a stewpan, and lay tliem 
 upon it. 
 
 SWEETBREAD, TO BOIL. Parboil 
 k, rub it with butter, and broil it over a 
 slow fire, turn it frecjuently, and baste it 
 now and then, by putting it upon a plate 
 kept warm by the fire with butter in it. 
 
 SWEETBREADS a la Dauphink. 
 
 If for a round dish, take four large and fino 
 sweetbreads. If for a long dish, three will 
 >jnffice. Pare off the fat and sinews, and 
 blanch them in warm water, parboil them, 
 and when cold, lard them. Rub a stew- 
 pan with fresh butter, and put into it a few 
 sliced carrots and onions, then a layer of 
 slices of fat bacon, place the sweetbreads 
 upon the bacon, sprinkle a little salt over 
 them, and stew them with a great deal of 
 fire on the top, and* a very slow one be- 
 neath ; when they are nicely browned, cover 
 them with a piece of buttered paper, cut 
 round, and lessen the fire upon the top. 
 They will require to stew for three-quarters 
 of an hour, then drain and put them into a 
 pan with some glaze, and the bacon under- 
 neath. Leave them in the glaze till dinner 
 time. 
 
 SWEETBREADS FULL DRESSED. 
 
 Parboil them, and let them get cold; then 
 cut them in pieces, about three-quarters of an 
 inch thick ; dip them in the yolk of an egg, 
 then in fine bread crumbs (some add spice, 
 lenjon-peel, and sweet herl)s) ; put some 
 clean dripping into a frying-pan: when it 
 boils, put in the sweetbreads, and fiy them 
 a fine brown. For gainish, crisp parsley 
 and for sauce, nuishroom ketchup and melted 
 butter, or anchovy sauce, or bacon or ham. 
 
 SWEETBREADS, SMALL CASES 
 
 OF Scollops of. Blanch and parboil 
 some sweetbreads, cut them into small scol- 
 lops. Tlien chop separately, and finely, half 
 a pint of mushrooms, a little parsley, and 
 four or five shallots, add a little fat bacon 
 rasped, and a piece of fresh butter; season 
 the scollops with pepper, salt, and a little 
 mace, stew it all together over a slow fire; 
 when d(jne, drain ofl the fat, place the scol- 
 lops in small paper cases, which have been 
 fried in olive oil, cover them with plenty of 
 finely-chopped herbs, and strew over them 
 fi ied bread crumbs; lay the paper cases for 
 a moment into the oven, and before serving, 
 pour into each a little rich gravy, and a little 
 lemon-juice. 
 
 SWEET HERBS. See Herbs. 
 
 SWEETMEAT FRITTERS. Cut 
 small any sort of candied fiuit. and heat it 
 with a bit of fresh butter, some good milk, 
 and a little grated lemon-peel ; when quite 
 hot, stir in enough of flour to make it into a 
 stiff paste, take it off the fire, and work in 
 eight, or ten eggs, two at a time; when 
 cold, form the fritters, and fry, and serve 
 them with pounded loaf sugar strewed over . 
 them. 
 
SYL 
 
 219 
 
 TAR 
 
 SYLLABUBS. Take the juice of a 
 large lemon, the peel (pared very thin), a 
 glass of brandy, two of white wine, and a 
 quarter of a pound of powder-sugar ; put 
 these ingredients into a pan, and leave them; 
 the next day, add a pint of thick cream, and 
 the whites of two eggs; whip the wliole 
 well, and pour the syllabub into glasses. 
 They are the better for keeping a day or 
 two. If the syllabubs are not wanted quite 
 so good as the above, raisin or mountain 
 wine will do as well as brandy. 
 
 SYLLABUB, Somersetshire. Put 
 a pint of Port, and a pint of Siierry, or 
 any other white wine, into a large bowl, 
 sweeten it according to taste; milk the bowl 
 full; in about twenty minutes' time, cover 
 it tolerably high with clouted cream; grate 
 nutmeg over it ; add pounded cinnamon, and 
 nonpareils. 
 
 SYLLABUB, Staffordshire. Put 
 a pint of cider, a glass of brandy, sugar, and 
 nutmeg, into a bowl, and milk into it; or 
 pour warm milk from a large tea-pot some 
 height into it. 
 
 SYLLABUB. (1) One poun(/ of ratafia 
 cakes pounded and steeped in two bottles 
 of Port wine, one of claret, and one of 
 brandy, tlie grated peel and juice of two 
 lemons, one large nutmeg grated, and two 
 ounces of sweet almonds, blanched and 
 pounde<l with a little rose-water, and pound- 
 ed sugar sufficient to make it sweet — Put 
 all these ingredients, well mixed, into a 
 large China bowl, or bowls of an equal size, 
 and let the milk of a good cow be milked 
 upon them ; add a little rich cream and sift- 
 ed loaf sugar, and fcover it to keep it warm. 
 It may be served out into glasses witli a silver 
 ladle. 
 
 SYLLABUB. (2) A large glass of Madei- 
 ra, one of rich sweet wine, and half a one of 
 ratafia, half a pound of pounded loaf sugar, 
 tlie grated peel of a large lemon, the juice 
 of two, and a little pounded cinnamon; stir 
 it all together till the sugar \)e dissolved, and 
 add a quart of rich cream; whisk it well; 
 lay some macaroons into the bottom of a 
 dish, and pile the frothed syllabub high upon 
 it. It may be kept nine or ten days, and is 
 better the third and fourth than when first 
 made. 
 
 SYLLABUB, SOLID. A quarter of a 
 pint of mountain, the same of white wine, 
 the grated peel of two, and juice of one 
 lemon ; sweeten, and add it to a quart of 
 rich cream ; whisk it for an hour, and put it 
 into glasses. It will keep a week in cold 
 weather, 
 
 SYLLABUB, COMMON. Half a pint 
 of currant, the same of Port or white wine, 
 half a grated nutmeg, and the peel of a 
 lemon; sweeten well with pounded loafer 
 good brown sugar, and mix it together in a 
 China bowl, and when the surar dissolves, 
 milk upon it tliree or four pmts of milk. 
 Serve it when cold. 
 
 SYLLABUB, WHIPT. (1) Mix to- 
 gether half a glass of brandy, a little lemon- 
 juice, and grated peel, with sugar enough to 
 sweeten the whole; stir it into a pint of 
 thick cream, and add the well-beaten whites 
 of six eggs; whisk it for an hour, and put 
 the froth, as it rises, upon a sieve to drain; 
 put a little Port and sweet wine into glasses, 
 and fill them up with the froth. 
 
 SYLLABUB, WHIPT. (2) Mix with 
 a pint of cream, half a pint of sweet wine, 
 a glass of brandy, the juice of a lemon, grat- 
 ed nutmeg, six ounces of sifted loaf sugar: 
 nearly fill the custard-glasses with the mix- 
 ture, and lay on with a spoon some of the 
 whip. 
 
 T. 
 
 TAMIS, a coarse kind of cloth for straii^ 
 
 ing soups and gravies. 
 
 TARTE, ROYAL BERLIN. Take 
 half a pound of sweet almonds, and havin^r 
 blanched, pound tliem with six eggs, in a 
 marble mortar to a very fine paste, add to it 
 a pound of broken sugar, a pound of fresh 
 butter, and the grated rind of two lemons, 
 beat it well as each ingredient is put in; 
 lay about sixteen or eighteen ounces of sift- 
 ed flour on the slab, place the almond paste 
 on it, and knead them well together. Di- 
 vide this into several pieces, which roll to 
 the eighth of an inch in thickness; from 
 these cut from twelve to sixteen circular 
 layers, the largest about seven inches in 
 diameter, the rest, each somewhat smaller 
 than the other ; when all are cut, place them 
 on white paper on tins, and bake tliem in a 
 moderate oven to a clear brown, then take 
 them out, and let them cool. As soon as 
 cold, place the largest piece on a China 
 dish, of a sufficient size to let it lay flat, and 
 spread over it equally some preserved fruit; 
 cover this with the second sized layer, on 
 which also spread presei'ved fruit; then a 
 third layer, and so on until all the paste is 
 used, taking care to put each layer in its 
 proper order, so that the whole may form a 
 cone, and that between every one must be 
 a different kind of preserve; when done, 
 glaze, and ornament it as follows: cut 
 
TARTS 
 
 220 
 
 TARTS 
 
 candied lemon, and orange-peel into tlie 
 form of leaves, which arrange in garlands 
 round the tart, putting here and there a 
 small presened fruit; when done, replace it 
 in the oven for two or three minutes to dry, 
 and then serve. 
 
 TARTLETS. (1) Butter some small 
 tartlet pans; line them with a nice thin 
 puff paste, jnark it neatly round the edges, 
 bake them ; when they are cold, fill them 
 with custard, pieseive, or any sweetmeat 
 you think proper, and if you choose, pour 
 euatard over. 
 
 TARTLETS. (2) Roll out the paste 
 about a quarter of an inch thick, and lay 
 upon it the lop part of the patty-pan ; cut it 
 round with the paste cutter. Rub the patty- 
 pans with a little butter, and line them with 
 the paste, and place in the middle a little bit of 
 bread, which take out when they are baked. 
 They may l)e filled with any preserved fruit, 
 and a staroi- leaf of paste placed on the top. 
 To make ornaments of paste, roll it quite 
 thin, and as even as possible; cut it with 
 tin stars, leaves, or any odier form, and 
 bake them a light brown color, upon flat 
 tins dusted with flour. 
 
 TART, APPLE, CREAMED. Use 
 green codlings, in preference to any other 
 apple, and proceed as in the last receipt. 
 When the pie is done, cut out the whole of 
 the centre, leaving the edges; when cold, 
 pour on the apple some rich lx)iled custard, 
 and place round it some small leaves of puff 
 of a light color. 
 
 TART, CHERRY. The cherries may 
 be stoned, and a few red currants added; 
 sweeten with loaf or brown sugar, and put 
 into the bottom of the dish a small tea-cup; 
 cover it with paste. 
 
 TART, CRANBERRY. Take cran- 
 berries, pick and wash them in several wa- 
 ters, put them into a dish, with the juice of 
 half a lemon, a quarter of a pound of moist 
 or pounded loaf sugar, to a quart of cran- 
 berries. Cover it with puff or tart paste 
 and bake it three-quarlei-s of an hour ; if 
 tart paste is need, dniw it from the oven 
 five minutes before it is done, and ice it, re- 
 turn it to the oven, and send it to table 
 cold. 
 
 TART, CURRANT. To a quart of 
 red currants add one pint of red raspber- 
 ries, strawberries, or cherries ; sweeten tliem 
 well with brown sugar; l)efore putting in 
 the finiit, line the side of the dish with tart 
 paste, place in it a small tea-cup, put in the 
 fruit, and cover it with paste. 
 
 Four ounces of brown sugar are general^ 
 ly allowed to a quart of fruit. 
 
 TART OF PRESERVED FRUIT. 
 
 Cover a flat dish, or tourte pan, with tart 
 paste, about an eighth of an inch thick; roll 
 out puff paste, half an inch thick, and cut it 
 out in strips an inch wide; wet the tart 
 paste, and lay it neatly round the pan by 
 way of a rim ; fill the centre with jam or 
 marmalade of any kind, ornament it with 
 small leaves of puff paste, bake it half an 
 hour, and send it to table cold. 
 
 'I'he alwA-e may be filled befoi-e tiie puff 
 paste is laid on, neatly strung with paste, 
 and the rim put over after. 
 
 The most general way of sending tourtes 
 to table, is with a crofjuante of paste, or a 
 caramel of spun sugar put over after it is 
 baked. 
 
 TARTS, PRESERVED FRUIT. Rub 
 
 over with a little butter an oval dish, or tin 
 shape, line it with paste, and fill it with any 
 sort of preserved fruit. Roll out a bit of 
 paste thin, and, with a paste cutter, cut it 
 into narrow stripe; brush with water the 
 rim of the shape, and lay the bars of paste 
 across and across, and then put round a 
 border of paste, and mark it with the paste 
 cutter. 
 
 TARTS, RIPE FRUIT. Gooseberries, 
 damsons, morello cherries, currants mixed 
 with raspberries, plums, green gages, white 
 plums, &c. should be quite fresh picked, and 
 washed: lay them in the dish with the cenfre 
 highest, and about a quarter of a pound of 
 moist or loaf sugar pounded to a quart of 
 fruil (but if quite ripe they will not require 
 so much) ; add a little water ; rub the edges 
 of the dish with yolk of egg; cover it with 
 tart paste, about half an inch thick; press 
 your thumb round the rim, and close it well; 
 pare it round witli a knife; make a hole in 
 the sides below the rim ; bake it in a mode- 
 rale-heated oven ; and ten minutes before it 
 is done, take it out and ice it, and return it 
 to tije oven to dry. 
 
 TART, RHUBARB. Strip off the peel, 
 and if the rhubarb is large, cut it into two 
 or three strips, and tlien into bits about an 
 inch long; sweeten well with brown sugar, 
 and cover the dish with paste. 
 
 TART PASTE, FOR FAMILY PIES. 
 
 Rub in widi the hand half a pound of butter 
 into one pound and a quarter of flour, mix it 
 with half a pint of water, and knead it well. 
 
 TART PASTE, Swket, or Short 
 AND Crisped. To one pound and a quar- 
 ter of fine flour add ten ounces ot' fi-esh butter. 
 
TEW 
 
 221 
 
 the yolks of twoegfgs beaten, and three oun- 
 ces of sifted loaf sugar ; mix up together with 
 half a pint of new railk, and knead it well. 
 N. B. — This crust is fi-equently iced. 
 
 TEA CREAM. Infuse an ounce of the 
 best green tea in half a pint of boiling milk, 
 simmer it five minutes, then strain it through 
 a tammy, pressing the leaves well. Boil a 
 pint of rich cream, add to it the yolks of four 
 eggs, well beaten, and a sufficient quantity 
 of clarified sugar; pour this whilst hot to the 
 milk, stir them together well; put in as much 
 clarified isinglass as will set it, and pour the 
 cream into the mould, or glasses; place them 
 on ice; when perfectly cold, turn it out of 
 the mould, or serve in the glasses. 
 
 TEAL, ROASTED. Shred a little 
 lemon-peel, and mix it with a bit of butter, 
 salt, pepper, and lemon-juice; stuff your 
 birds with tiiis, cover them first with slices 
 of lemon, then bacoji, and lastly, buttered 
 paper sprinkled with salt; tie them up se- 
 curely, fasten them to the spit, and roast 
 them. When done, let the butter lun out, 
 remove the wrappers, and dish them. Serve 
 them with a sauce made as follovvsj: put into 
 a saucepan three ladlefuls of espa°;nole, a 
 spoonful of consomme, a bit of glaze, the 
 rind of a quarter of a lemon, and a little pep- 
 per; give them a boil up together, and strain 
 it over the teal. 
 
 TENCH. They are a fine-flavored fresh 
 water fish ; when good, the eyes are bright, 
 the body stiff, and the outside free from slime ; 
 tench should be dressed as soon as caught. 
 
 TENCH, FRIED. Take a couple of 
 large tench, scale and cleanse them as for 
 broiling. Cut off the fins, split them down 
 the back, take out the boties; sprinkle them 
 with flour and salt; squeeze a little lemon- 
 juice over, and fry diem in butter, and serve 
 them dry. 
 
 TENCH, ROASTED. Take off scales, 
 heads, and fins, of the tench, cleanse and dry 
 them well, then put into each a little butter, 
 mixed with sweet herbs; lay them for about 
 five minutes in melted butter, with salt, pep- 
 per, and sweet herbs; wrap each fish in pa- 
 per, fasten them to a spit, and roast them. 
 
 TEWAHDIDDLE. A pint of table 
 beer (or ale, if you intend it for a supplement 
 to your " night cap"), a tal)le-spoonful of 
 brandy, and a tea-spoonfui of brown sugar, 
 or clarified sirup; a little grated nutmeg or 
 ginger may be added, and a roll of very thin- 
 cut lemon-peel. 
 
 Obs. — Bef'^re our readers make any re- 
 marks on this composition, we beg of them 
 19* 
 
 to ta.«!te it: ff Qie fiwtwia^are goocCand i * 
 their palate vibrates in unison with our own, 
 they will find it one of the pleasantest bever-bw» 
 ages they ever put to tlieir lips; and, as Lord' " 
 Ruthven says, " this is a right gossip's cup' 
 that far exceeds all the ale that ever Mother 
 Bunch made in her life-time." 
 
 THICKENING. Clarified butter is best 
 for this purpose; but if you have none ready, 
 put some fresh butter into a stewpan over a 
 slow, clear fire; when it is melted, add fine 
 flour sufficient to make it the thickness of 
 paste; stir it well together with a wooden 
 spoon for fifteen or twenty minutes, till it is 
 quite smooth, and the color of a guinea: this 
 must be done very gradually and patiently; 
 if you put it over too fierce a fire to hurry it, 
 it will become bitter and empyreumatie: pour 
 it into an earthen pan, and keep it for uee. 
 It will keep good a fortnight in summer, ami 
 longer in winter. 
 
 A large spoonful will generally be enough 
 to thicken a (juart of gravy. 
 
 Obs. — This, in the French kitchen, is 
 called roux. Be particularly attentive in 
 making it; if it gets any burnt smell or 
 taste, it will spoil everything it is put into. 
 When cold, it should be thick enough to cut 
 out with a knife, like a solid paste. 
 
 It is a very essential article in the kitchen, 
 and is the basis of consistency in most made- 
 dishes, soups, sauces, and ragouts; if the 
 gravies, &c. are too thin, add this thicken- 
 ing, more or less, according to the consistence 
 you would wish them to have. 
 
 Mem. — In making thickening, the less 
 butter, and the more flour you use, the bet- 
 ter; they must be thoroughly woiked to- 
 gether, and the broth, or soup, &"c. you pat 
 tiiem to, added by degrees: take especial 
 care to incorporate them well together, or 
 your sauces, &c. will taste floury, and have 
 a disgusting, greasy appeaiance: therefore, 
 after you have tliickened your sauce, add to 
 it some broth, or warm water, in the pro- 
 |)ortion of two t;ible-spoonfuls to a pint, and 
 set it by the side of the fire, to raise any fat, 
 &c. that is not thoroughly incorporated with 
 the gravy, which you must carefully remove 
 as it comes to the top. This is called 
 cleansing, or finishing the sauce. 
 
 Half an ounce of butter, and a table-spooq- 
 ful of flour, are about the proportion for a 
 pint of sauce to make it as thick as cream. 
 
 N. B. — The fat skimmings off the top 
 of the broth-pot are sometimes substituted 
 for butler; some cooks merely tliicken their 
 soups and sauces with flour. 
 
 TIMBALE. Put a pound of floor on 
 the slab, make a hole in the middle of it, 
 into which pour a little water, three or four 
 spoonfuls of oil, a quarter of a pound of but* 
 
TOA 
 
 222 
 
 TOM 
 
 ter, the yolks of two eggs, and a pinch of 
 gait; knead these ingredients thoroughly into 
 the flour, until it becomes a tolerably firm 
 paste; roll it out to nearly half an inch in 
 thickness, line one large, or several small 
 plain round moulds, with this paste; let the 
 moulds be well buttered, and the paste come 
 about half an inch al*)ve the top of the mould; 
 fill your timbale with any farce, or ragout, 
 you think proper, covei* it with a layer of 
 paste, pressing the edges together; bake it, 
 and when done, turn <he timbale on a dish, 
 make a hole, pour in souie rich sauce or 
 gravy, and serve. 
 
 TINCTURE OF ALLSPICE. Of 
 allspice bruised, three ounces, apothecaries' 
 weight; brandy, a quart. Let it steep a 
 fortnight, occasionally shaking it up; then 
 pour ofiT the clear liquor: it is a most grateful 
 addition in all cases where allspice is used, 
 for making a bishop, or to mulled wine ex- 
 tempore, or in gravies, &c. or to flavor and 
 preserve potted meats. 
 
 TIPSY CAKE. Pour over a sponge 
 cake, made in the form, of a porcupine, as 
 much white wine as it will absorb, and stick 
 it all over with blanched sweet almonds, cut 
 like straws; or pour wine in the same man- 
 ner over a thick slice of sponge cake, cover 
 the top of it with preserved strawbeiries or 
 raspberries, and stick cut almonds all round it. 
 
 TOAST AND CHEESE. See Cheese. 
 
 TOAST, WITH BUTTER. Spread 
 butter over some slices of fried bread; lay 
 on them sweet herbs, tossed up in melted 
 butter, and serve. 
 
 TOASTS, GENOA. Lard a French 
 roll with partly anchovies, and partly ham; 
 cut tlie roll into slices, lay on each a thin 
 slice of bacon, dip diem into batter, and fry 
 them; drain, and sei^ve with ravigote. 
 
 TOASTS, GRENADA. Cut some fat 
 and lean bacon into dice, give them a few 
 turns over the fire with parsley, scallions, 
 shallots, pepper, sail, and the yolks of three 
 eggs; stir it fre(]uently, till it forms a kind 
 of forcemeat, spread it over slices of bread, 
 cut of an equal thickness, and fry them. 
 
 TOASTS, ITALIAN. Cut sr.me slices 
 of bread, about half an inch in thickness, 
 fry them in sweet oil, let it be dry, and 
 crisp, lay them on a dish, and spread over 
 tiiem any light good farce you may think 
 proper; pour over them an appropriate 
 sauce and serve them. 
 
 TOAST AND WATER. Pare the 
 
 crust off a thin slice of stale bread, toast 
 it brown upon both sides, doing it equally 
 and slowly, that it may harden without being 
 burnt; put it into a jug, and pour upon it 
 boiling water; cover the jug with a saucer, 
 and set it in a cool place. 
 
 TOASTS, SPANISH. Roll out some 
 almond paste, nearly an inch thick, cut it 
 into pieces, about two inches square, press 
 them down widi a s(]uar« piece of wood, a 
 little smaller than the paste, which will leave 
 the edges higher than the rest; bake the n, 
 and when cold, pour in any prepared cream 
 you please, as high as the borders; ice, and 
 color them with a salamander. 
 
 TOMATA SAUCE. Bake six tomatas 
 in an oven till (juite soft; with a tea-spoon 
 take out the pulp, add salt, cayenne, and 
 vinegar, till of the consistence of thick cream. 
 
 TOMATA SOUP. Wash, scrape, and 
 cut small the red part of three large carrots, 
 three heads of celei y, four large onions, and 
 two large turnips, put them into a saucepan, 
 with a table-spoonful of butter, and half a 
 pound of lean new ham ; let them stew very 
 gently for an hour, then add three (]uarts of 
 brown gravy soup, and some whole black 
 pepper, with eight or ten ripe tomatas ; let 
 it boil an hour and a half, and pulp it through 
 a sieve ; serve it witli fried bread cut in dice. 
 
 TOMATA SAUCE, FRENCH. Cut 
 
 ten or a dozen tomatas into quarters, and 
 put them into a saucepan, with four on- 
 ions sliced, a little parsley, thyme, one clove, 
 and a quarter of a pound of butter; set tlie 
 saucepan on the fire, stirring occasionally for 
 three-quarters of an hour; strain the sauce 
 through a horse-hair sieve, and serve with 
 the directed articles. 
 
 TOMATA SAUCE, ITALIAN. Take 
 
 five or six onions, slice, and put them into 
 a saucepan, with a little thyme, bay-leaf, 
 twelve or fifteen tomatas, a bit of butter, 
 salt, half a dozen allspice, a little India saf- 
 fron, and a glass of stock; set them on tlie 
 fire, taking care to stir it freqnenly, as it is 
 apt to stick ; when you perceive ilie fauce is 
 tolerably thick, strain it like a puree. 
 
 TO^'ATA KETCHUP. (1) Take t. m;- 
 tas when fully ripe, bake them in a jar till 
 tender strain tliem, and rub them through a 
 sieve. To every pound of juice, add a pint 
 of Chili vinegar, an ounce of shallots, half anr 
 ounce of garlic, both sliced, a quarter of an 
 ounce of salt, and a quarter of an ounce of 
 white pepper, finely powdered; boil the 
 whole till eveVy ingredient is soft, rub it 
 again through the sieve. To every pound 
 
TOM 
 
 223 
 
 TON 
 
 add the juice of three lemons ; bnil it again 
 to the consistence of cream; when cold, bot- 
 tle it, put a small quantity of sweet oil on 
 each, tie bladders over, and keep it in a dry 
 place. 
 
 TOMATA KETCHUP. (2) Gather a 
 
 peck of tomatas, pick out the stems, and 
 wash them ; put tliera on the fire witliout 
 water ; sprinkle on a few spoonfuls of salt ; 
 let them boil steadily an hour, stirring them 
 frequently ; strain them through a colander 
 and then through a sieve ; put the liquid on 
 the fire with half a pint of chopped onions, 
 eighth of an ounce of mace broke into small 
 pieces, and if not sufficiently salt, add a little 
 more; one table-spoonful of whole black 
 |>epper; boil all together until just enough 
 to fill two bottles; cork it tight. 
 
 [The seasoning may be varied to suit the 
 taste. Allspice instead of mace — common 
 red pepper instead of black pepjxjr, and less 
 cJiopped onion.] 
 
 TOMATO KETCHUP. (3) One gal- 
 lon skinned tomatas, four table-spoons of 
 salt, four do. black pepper, two do. allspice, 
 eight pods red pepper, eight table-spoons of 
 mustard seed. These articles to be bruised 
 fine and simmered slowly in a pint of vineg;ir 
 tln-ee hours ; then strained through a hair 
 sieve. To be stewed down to half a gallon 
 of ketchup. 
 
 TOMATAS, METHOD OF PRE- 
 SERVING. (1) A sufficient quantity of salt 
 is dissolved in spring or river water to make 
 it strong enough to bear an egg; select per- 
 fectly ripe tomatas, and place them well and 
 without pressing them, in a stone or glazened 
 earthen pot, with a deep plate in such a 
 manner that it presses upon the fiuit, and by 
 tliis simple process tomatas may l)e preserxed 
 more than a year without attention. Before 
 cooking them they should be soaked in fresh 
 water for several hours. 
 
 TOMATAS, METHOD OF PRE- 
 SERVING. (2) Gather them carefully 
 without bruising; put them in a stone jar, 
 and pour in strong brine, to the top — putting 
 on a light weight to keep them gently pressed 
 down below the surface of the brine. Soak 
 them in fresh water and cook them in the 
 usual way, seasoning to suit tlie taste, as 
 when fresh from the vine. 
 
 TOMATA MARMALADE. Gather 
 full-grown tomatas while quite green; take 
 out the stems and stew them till soft; rub 
 them through a sieve ; put the pulp on the 
 fire, seasoned highly with pepper, salt and 
 powdered cloves; add some garlic, and stew 
 all together till thick. It keeps well, and is 
 
 excellent for seasoning gravies. Besides th« 
 numerous modes of preparing this delicioHS 
 vegetable for the table, it may be stewed, 
 after being peeled, with sugar, like cranber- 
 ries and goosebeiTies, producing a tart equal 
 to either of those fruits. Tomatas make 
 good pickles, pickled green; to peel them, 
 pour boiling water on them, when tlie skin 
 will come off easily. 
 
 TONGUE. (1) A tongue which has 
 not teen dried will require very little soak- 
 ing, but if dried, it should be soaked in 
 water for three or four hours; then put it 
 into cold water, and let it boil gently till 
 tender. 
 
 TONGUE. (2) A tongue is so hard, 
 whether prepared by drying or pickling, that 
 it requires much more cooking than a ham; 
 nothing of its weight takes so long to dress 
 it properly. 
 
 A tongue that has Ijeen salted and dried 
 should be put to soak (if it is old and verj' 
 hard, 24 hours befoie it is wanted) in plen- 
 ty of water^ a green one fresh from the pic- 
 kle requires soaking only a few hours: put 
 your tongue into plenty of cold water ; let 
 it be an hour gradually warming; and give 
 it from three and a half to four hours' very 
 slow simmering, according to the size, &c. 
 
 Obs. — When you choose a tongue, en- 
 deavor to learn how long it has been dried 
 or pickled, pick out the plumpest, and that 
 which has the smoothest skin, which de- 
 notes its being young and tender. 
 
 The roots, &c. make an excellent relish 
 potted, or peas soup. 
 
 TONGUE, TO STEW. Wash it very 
 clean, and rub it well with common salt and 
 a little saltpetre; let it lie two or three days, 
 and then boil it till the skin will pull off. 
 Put it into a saucepan, with part of the li- 
 quor it has been boiled in, and a pint of 
 good stock. Season with black and Ja- 
 maica pepper, and two or three pounded 
 cloves; add a glass of white wine and a 
 lable-spoonful of mushroom ketchup, and 
 one of lemon pickle; thicken the sauce with 
 butter rolled in flour, and pour it over the 
 tongue. 
 
 TONGUE, PICKLED, GLAZED. 
 
 Boil a large tongue till it be tender, skin 
 and glaze it, and seive it with mashed tur- 
 nips on one side, and mashed carrots, or 
 carrots and spinach on the other. 
 
 TONGUE, POTTED. See Ham. 
 
 TONGUES, TO SALT. Salt two 
 tongues, and tuin them every day for four or 
 five days; then rub them with two ounces 
 
TR I 
 
 224 
 
 TRI 
 
 of common salt, one of brown sugar, and half 
 an ounce of saltpetre; turn tliem daily, and 
 in a fortnight they may be used. 
 
 The best sort of vessel for salting them 
 in is an earthen-ware pan, as wide at top 
 as bottom, so that the tongues may lie in it 
 long-ways. 
 
 TRIFLE. (1) Add to a pint of rich 
 cream a tea-cupful of white wine, sweeten it 
 with pounded loaf sugar, whisk it well, and 
 as the froth rises lay it upon a sieve placed 
 over a deep dish; as it drains, pour the 
 cream into the pan in which it is whisked 
 till all is done ; dip some sponge biscuit, rata- 
 fia cakes, or Savoy biscuit, into sweet wine 
 and a little bi-andy; pour ov^r them a rich 
 boiled custard, and when quite cold, lay on 
 the whipt cream, piled as high as possible. 
 Colored comfits may be strewed over the 
 top. 
 
 TRIFLE. (2) Mix three table-spoon- 
 fuls of white wine, and one of sugar, with a 
 pint and a half of thick cream; whisk it, 
 and take off as much froth as will heap upon 
 the dish, into which lay some pieces of 
 sponge cake, or some sponge biscuit, soaked 
 with sweet wine, and coveied with preserv- 
 ed strawberries, or any other fruit; pile the 
 froth upon this, and pour the remainder of 
 the cream into the bottom of tlie dish ; gar- 
 nish with tlowers. 
 
 TRIFLE. (3) Cover the bottom of 
 the dish with Naples biscuits, and maca- 
 roons, broke in halves, wet with brandy and 
 white wine, poured over them; cover them 
 with patches of rasplierry jam; fill the dish 
 with a good custard, then vviiip up a sylla- 
 bub, drain the froth on a sieve ; put it on 
 the custard, and strew comfits over all. 
 
 TRIPE. Take care to have fresh trii^e; 
 cleanse it well from the fat, and cut it into 
 pieces about two inches broad and four long ; 
 put it into a stewpan, and cover it with 
 milk and water, and let it boil gently till it 
 is lender. 
 
 If the tripe has been pi'epared as it usual- 
 ly is at the tripe shops, it will l)e enough in 
 about an hour, (this depends upon how long 
 it has been previously boiled at the tripe 
 shop) ; if entirely undressed, it will require 
 two or three hours, according to the age 
 and quality of it. 
 
 Make some onion sauce in the same man- 
 ner as you do for rabbits, or boil (slowly by 
 themselves) some Spanish or the whitest 
 common onions you can get ; peel them be- 
 fore you boil them ; when they are tender, 
 which a middling-sized onion will be in 
 about three-quarters of an hour, drain them 
 in a hair sieve, take off the top skins till 
 
 they look nice and white, and put them 
 with the tripe into a tureen or soup-dish, 
 and take off the fet if any floats on the 
 surface. 
 
 Obs. — Rashers of bacon, or fried sau- 
 sages are a very good accompaniment to 
 boiled tripe, cow-heels or calf's feet, see " 
 Kelly's sauce or parsley and butter, or ca- 
 per sauce, with a little vinegar and mua> 
 tard added to them, or salad mixtm-e. 
 
 Tripe holds the same rank among solids, 
 that water gruel does among soups, and the 
 former is desirable at dinner, when the lat- 
 ter is welcome at supper. 
 
 TRIPE, TO FRY. Cut it into bita 
 three or four inches s(|uare ; make a batter 
 thicker than for pancakes, of three egga 
 beaten up with flour and milk, a little salt, 
 pepper, and nutmeg; dip in the tripe, and 
 fry it in butter, or fresh dripping, of a light 
 brown color. Serve it garnished with pars- 
 ley. Sauce; — melted butter with lemon 
 pickle in it. 
 
 TRIPE PIE. Lay into the bottom of 
 a dish some thinly-sliced cold or Kaw ham, 
 then put in a layer of tripe with the jelly 
 adhering to it, season with pepper and salt, 
 and add a bit of butter; fill the dish in this 
 manner, and put in a few table-spoonfuls 
 of brown stock; cover the dish with puff 
 paste. A beefsteak may be substituted for 
 the ham, laid into the bottom, and the dish 
 filled up with tripe. 
 
 TRIPE, TO BOIL. Clean it extreme- 
 ly well, and take off the fat; let it lie a 
 night in salt-and-water, again wash it well, 
 and let it lie in milk-and-water for the same 
 length of time; then cut it into small pieces, 
 roll and tie them with thread ; put them, 
 with a clean-washed marrow-bone, into a 
 linen bag; tie it closely, and put it into a 
 stewpan that has a cover to fit ([uite close- 
 ly, fill it up with water, and let it Iwil 
 gently for six hours. Take the tripe out 
 of the bag, put it into a jar, and pour over 
 it the liquor in which it was boiled. When 
 to be dressed, boil some whole small onions 
 in a part of the liquor, add a little salt, then 
 put in the tripe and heat it thoroughly. 
 
 Or it m.'iy l)e fried in butter fricasseed, or 
 stowed in a brown sauce. 
 
 Instead of being boiled in a bag, the tripe 
 may be put, with some salt and whole pep- 
 per, into a stone-ware jar, which must have 
 a piece of linen tied over it, and a plate laid 
 upon the top. The pot should always \)e 
 kept full of boiling water, taking care that 
 it do not boil into the jar. 
 
 TRIPE, TO ROAST. Cut the tripe 
 into two oblong pieces, make a forcemeat 
 
TRO 
 
 225 
 
 TUN 
 
 of bi*ead cnimbs and chopped parsley, sea- 
 soned with pepper and salt; bind it with 
 the yolks of two eggs ; spread it upon the 
 fat side of the tripe, and lay on the other 
 fat side ; then foil it very tigl)tly, and tie it 
 with packthread. Roast, and baste it with 
 butter: it will take one hour, or one hour 
 and a half. Serve it with melted butter, 
 into which put a table-spoonful oflietchup 
 and one of lemon pickle. 
 
 TRIPE, BREADED. Cut your tripe 
 into small square pieces, and give them a 
 few turns in some butter, with parsley, salt, 
 and pepper; roll each bit in grated bread, 
 and broil them slowly. When done, serve 
 them with slices of lemon. 
 
 TROUT. This fish is held in great 
 estimation, it is a fiesh water fish, and 
 when good, of a flesh color, and the spots 
 upon it are very bright ; the female is con- 
 sidered the best, and is known by the head 
 being smaller, and the body bemg deeper 
 than that of the male. 
 
 TROUT, POTTED. Mix together 
 the following quantity of finely-powdered 
 spices: — One ounce of cloves, half an ounce 
 of Jamaica pepper, quarter of an ounce of 
 black pepper, quarter of an ounce of cay- 
 enne, two nutmegs, a little mace, and two 
 tea-spoonfuls of ginger; add the weight of 
 the spices, and half as much again of salt, 
 and mix jill thoroughly. Clean the fish, and 
 cut off the heads, fins, and tails ; put a tea- 
 spoonful of the mixed spices into each fish, 
 and lay them into a deep earthen jar, with 
 the backs downwards; cover them with 
 clarified butter, tie a paper over the mouth 
 of the jar, and bake them slowly for eight 
 hours. When the back bone is tender, the 
 fish are done enough. Take them out of 
 the jar, and put them into a milkpan with 
 the backs upwards; cover them with a 
 board, and place upon it a heavy weight. 
 When perfectly cold, remove the fish into 
 fresh jars, smooth them with a knife, and 
 cover them with clarified butter. 
 
 TROUT, TO COLLAR. Wash them 
 clean, split them down the back bone, and 
 dry them well in a cloth ; season them well 
 with finely-pounded black pepper, salt, and 
 mace; roll them tight, and lay them close 
 into a dish ; pour over an equal quantity of 
 vinegar and l)eer, with two or three bay- 
 leaves, and some whole black pepper; tie 
 over the dish a sheet of buttered paper, and 
 bake them an hour. 
 
 TROUT, TO BROIL. Cut off the fins, 
 and cut the fish down the back, close to the 
 bone, and split the head in two. Anotlier 
 
 way is, after they have been cut open, to 
 rub a little salt over them ; let them lie three 
 or four hours, and then hang them up in the 
 kitchen. They will be ready to broil the 
 next morning for breakfast. 
 
 TROUT, TO BOIL. Clean and gut 
 them ; make the water as salt as for boil- 
 ing salmon in, and when it boils put in the 
 trout, and let them boil fast from fifteen 
 to twenty minutes, according to their size. 
 Sauce;— melted butter. 
 
 TROUT, TO FRY. Cut off the fins, 
 clean and gut them ; dust them with flour, 
 and dip them into the yolk of an egg beaten ; 
 strew grated bread crumbs over, and fry them 
 in fresh dripping; lay them upon the back 
 of a sieve before the fire to drain. Sauce; 
 — melted butter, with a table-spoonful of 
 ketchup, and one of lemon pickle in it. 
 When they are small, roll thera in oatmeal 
 before tliey are fried. 
 
 TRUFFLES. The truffle, like the mush- 
 room, is a species of fungus common in 
 France and Italy ; it generally grows about 
 eight or ten inches below the surface of the 
 ground; tis it imparts a most delicious flavor, 
 it is much used in cookeiy. Being dug out 
 of the earth, it requires a gieat deal of wash- 
 ing and brushing, before it can be applied to 
 culinary purposes; when washed, the water 
 should be warm, and changed frequently. It 
 loses much of its flavor when dried. 
 
 TRUFFLE SAUCE. Mince two or 
 three truffles very small, and toss them up 
 lightly, in either oil or butter, according to 
 your taste ; then put to them four or five la- 
 dlefuls of veloute and a spoonfiil of con- 
 somme; let it l)oil for about a quarter 
 of an hour over a gentle fire, skim off all 
 the fat; keep your sauce hot in tlie bain- 
 marie. 
 
 TRUFFLES TOURTE. Take two 
 pounds of fine truffles, wash and pick them ; 
 put them into a stewpan, with six thin slices 
 of ham, a veiy little carrot, a sliced onion, 
 a bay-leaf, sweet herbs in powder, salt, and 
 Champagne ; lay rashers uf bacon over the 
 whole, and stew them to nearly a jelly. 
 When cold, put the truffles into a crust with 
 all the seasoning; bake the tourte, and serve 
 as usual. 
 
 TUNBRIDGE CAKES. Rub two 
 
 ounces of butter into half a pound of dried 
 flour ; add a few caraway seeds, and a quar- 
 ter of a pound of pounded loaf sugar ; mix 
 it to a stiff paste with a little water, roll it 
 out veiy thin, cut it into round cakes with 
 a glass or the top of a dredging lx)x, pricH 
 
TU R 
 
 226 
 
 TUR 
 
 them with a fork, and bake them upon 
 floured tins. 
 
 TUNBRIDGE PUFFS. Put into a 
 nicely-tinned saucepan a pint of milk, and 
 when it boils, stir in as much flour as will 
 make it a thick batter; add three well- 
 beaten eggs, and two or three drops of oil 
 of cinnamon, or any other seasoning; dust 
 a large flat plate with flour, with a spoon 
 throw on it the batter, in the form of balls 
 or fritters, and drop diem into boiling cla- 
 rified dripping or lard. Serve them with 
 pounded loaf sugar strewed over. 
 
 The batter may be made into a pudding, 
 adding with the eggs an ounce of salt but- 
 ter. Boil and serve it with a sweet sauce. 
 
 TURBOT. Turbot, when good, should 
 be thick and full, and the belly of a yellow- 
 ish white or cream color. 
 
 TURBOT, BAKED. Wash your fish 
 in several waiters, dry it well, and soak it 
 in melted butter, with sweet herbs, parsley, 
 pepper, salt, and nutmeg; in half an hour 
 put the whole into a baking dish, envelope 
 it completely in bread crumbs, and bake it. 
 
 TURBOT, BREADED. Prepare a 
 small turbot as usual, slit it across the back, 
 and soak it for an hour in melted butler, 
 or lemon-juice, with parsley, sweet herbs, 
 Bait, and jiepper. Cover the fish with 
 bread crumbs, and broil it; when done, 
 squeeze lemon, or Seville orange-juice over 
 it, and serve. 
 
 TURBOT, STUFFED AND BAKED. 
 
 Your turbot being properly cleansed, turn 
 over the skin of the under side, without cut- 
 ting it off; make a/arce, with some butter, 
 parsley, scaliions, morels, sweet herbs, all 
 shred, and united together, with yolks of 
 ^gs, and seasoned with pepper and salt ; 
 spread this all over the under part of the 
 fish, cover it with the skin, and sew it up. 
 Dissolve some butter in a saucepan ; add to 
 it when melted, the yolk of an egg, sweet 
 herbs shred, salt, and pepper; rub the fish 
 all over with tliis, then bread, and bake it. 
 
 TURBOT, TO BOIL. (1) This excellent 
 fish is in season the greatest part of the sum- 
 mer ; when good, it is at once firm and ten- 
 der, and abounds with rich gelatinous nu- 
 triment. 
 
 Being drawn, and washed clean, if it be 
 quite fresh, by rubbing it lightly with salt, 
 and keeping it in a cold place, you may in 
 moderate weather preserve it for a couple 
 of days. 
 
 An hour or two before you dress it, soak 
 U in spring water witl) some salt in it, then 
 
 sco>-e the skin across the thickest part of 
 die back, to prevent its breaking on the 
 breast, which will happen fiom the fish 
 swelling, and cracking the skin, if this pre- 
 caution lie not used. Put a large handful 
 of still into a fish-ketile with cold water, 
 lay your fish on a fish-strainer, put it in, 
 and when it is coming to a boil, skim it 
 well ; then set the kettle on the side of tlie 
 fire, to boil as gently as possible for about 
 fifteen or twenty minutes (if it boils fest, 
 the fish will break to pieces) ; supposing it 
 a middling-sized turbot, and to weigh eight 
 or nine pounds. 
 
 Rub a liltle of the inside red coral spawn 
 of the lobster through a hair sieve, with- 
 out butter; and when the turbot is dished, 
 sprinkle the spawn over it. Garnish the 
 dish with sprigs of curled parsley, sliced 
 lemon, and finely-scraped horseradish. 
 
 If you like to send it to table in full dress, 
 surround it with nicely-fried smelts, gudg- 
 eons are often used for this purpose, and may 
 be bought very cheap when smelts arc veiy 
 dear; lay the largest opposite the broadest 
 part of the turbot, so that they may form a 
 well-proportioned fringe for it; or oysters; 
 or cut a sole in strips, crossways, about the 
 size of a smelt ; fry them and lay them 
 round. Send up lobster sauce, two boats 
 of it, if it is for a large party. 
 
 Obs. — The thickest part is the favorite; 
 and the carver of this fish must remember 
 to ask his friends if they are fin-fanciers. 
 It will save a troublesome job to the carver 
 if the cook, when the fish is boiled, cuts the 
 spine bone across the middle. 
 
 TURBOT, TO BOIL. (2) Put into 
 the turbot kettle, with the water, two large 
 handfuls of salt, and a tea-cupful of vinegar; 
 when it boils very fast, take off the scum; 
 put in the turlx>t, and when it boils again 
 keep it boiling fast till the turbot rises from 
 the drainer; when it is sufficiently done, 
 dish and garnish it with a fringe of curled 
 parsley and cut lemon. Sauces; — lobster 
 and melted butter. 
 
 Cold boiled turbot eats well with salad 
 sauce. 
 
 Turbot is generally considered liest per- 
 fectly fresh ; but some people prefer it kept 
 for a few days, hung up by the tail in a 
 cool place. 
 
 TURBOT, GRILLED. Split the fish 
 down the back, and soak it for sometime, 
 with melted butter, parsley, sweet herbs, 
 salt, and pepper. Bread the turbot well, 
 bioil, and serve it with lemon, or Seville, 
 orange-juice. 
 
 TURBOT, WITH WHITE SAUCE. 
 Put a sliced onion, some tliyme, basil, and^ 
 
TUR 
 
 227 
 
 TUR 
 
 Bweet herbs into a stewpan, place a small 
 turbot on these, strew similar herbs, salt, 
 pepper, and a leek, cut in pieces over it; 
 cover the fish with equal quantities of vine- 
 gar, and white wine; let it boil over a 
 moderate fiie until sufficiently done; in the 
 meantime, melt a pound of butter, add to it 
 a couple of boned anchovies, two spoonfuls 
 of capers, shred small, two or three leeks, 
 salt, pepper, nutmeg, a little vinegar, water, 
 and a sprinkling of flour; make all these 
 quite hot, stirring constantly till done; then 
 dish the turbot, |X)ur tlie sauce over it, and 
 
 TURKEY, BOILED. Make a stuffing 
 of bread, herbs, salt, pepper, nutmeg, lem- 
 on-|)eel, a few oysters, or an anchovy, a bit 
 of butter, some suet, and an egg ; put this 
 into the crop, fasten up the skin, and boil 
 the turkey in a floured cloth to make it very 
 while. Have ready some oyster sauce 
 made rich with butter, a little cream, and a 
 spoonful of soy, and serve over the turkey, 
 or you may serve over it a liver and lemon 
 sauce. 
 
 TURKEY, TURKEY POULTS, and 
 OTHEK Poultry. A fowl and a turkey 
 require the same management at the fire, 
 only the latter will take longer time. 
 
 Many a Christmas dinner has been spoil- 
 ed by the turkey having been hung up in a 
 cold larder, and becoming thoroughly fro- 
 zen; Jack Frost has ruined the reputation 
 of many a turkey roaster. 
 
 Let them be carefully picked, &c. and 
 break the breast bone (to make them look 
 plump), twist up a sheet of clean wiiting 
 paper, light it, and thoroughly singe the 
 turkey all over, tuniing it about over the 
 flame. 
 
 Turkeys, fowls, and capons have a much 
 better appearance, if, instead of trussing 
 them with the legs close together, and the 
 feet cut oflT, the legs are extended on each 
 side of the bird, and the toes only cut off, 
 with a skewer through each foot, to keep 
 them at a proper distance. 
 
 Be careful, when you draw it, to preserve 
 the liver, and not to break the gall-bag, as 
 no washing will take off" the bitter taste it 
 gives, where it once touches. 
 
 Prepare a nice, clear, brisk (ire for it. 
 
 Make stuffing ; stuff" it under the breast, 
 where the craw was taken out, and make 
 some into balls, and boil or fry them, and 
 lay them round the dish ; they are handy to 
 help, and you can then reserve some of the 
 inside stuffing to eat with the cold turkey, 
 or to enrich a hash. 
 
 TURKEY EN DAUBE. Take an old 
 turkey, truss it in the usual way ; roll some 
 
 I large lardons in a mixture of stih, pepper, 
 j four spices, and sweet herbs, and then lard 
 the turkey with ihem; lay slices of bacon 
 in a braising-pan, put the turkey on them, 
 with two small knuckles of veal, the feet of 
 the bird, four carrots, six onions, three 
 cloves, two bay-leaves, thyme, a bunch of 
 parsley, and young onions; cover the whole 
 with bacon and a piece of buttered paper; 
 dilute it with four ladlefuls of stock (or 
 more if the turkey be very large), put in a 
 little salt, and set the pan on the fire to boil 
 slowly for three hours and a half; then take 
 it off", but do not take the bird out for at 
 least half an hour. Strain off" the liquor, 
 and then reduce it to a fourth, or more if 
 very thin; break an egg into another sauce- 
 pan, beat it up well, and then pour the li- 
 quor on it, whisk them well together, and 
 if It wants flavor, add a few sweet herbs, 
 parsley leaves, and a young onion or two; 
 put it on ; the fire, stirring it violently until 
 ready to boil; as soon as it has boiled up 
 once or twice; set it by the side of a stove, 
 put fire on the top of the saucepan, and let 
 it simmer half an hour ; then strain it care- 
 fully through a fine cloth, and let it cool to 
 serve it widi the turkey. 
 
 TURKEY, HASHED. (1) Cut up the 
 
 remains of a roasted turkey, put it into a 
 stewpan, with a glass of white wine, chop- 
 ped parsley, shallots, mushrooms, truffles, 
 salt and' pepper, two spoonfuls of cullis, and 
 a little stock ; boil half an hour, and reduce 
 to a thick sauce; when ready, add a pound 
 of anchovy, and a squeeze of lemon ; skim 
 oflf all the fat from the sauce, and serve all 
 i together. 
 
 TURKEY, HASHED. (2) Stir a 
 piece of butter rolled in flour into some 
 cream, and a little veal gravy, till it boils 
 up; mince some cold roasted or boiled 
 turkey, but not too small; put it into the 
 sauce, add grated lemon-peel, white pepper, 
 pounded mace, a little mushroom ketchup or 
 mushroom powder ; simmer it up, and serve. 
 Oysters may be added. 
 
 TURKEY, ROASTED. It may be 
 
 either stufl^d with sausage meat, or stuffing 
 the same as for fillet of veal. As this makes 
 a large addition to the size of the bird, take 
 care that the heat of the fire is constantly to 
 that part, as it frequently happens that the 
 breast is not sufficiently done. A strip of 
 paper should be put on the bone to prevent 
 its scorching, while the other parts are 
 roasting. Baste well, and froth it up. Serve 
 with gravy in the disli, and bread sauce in a 
 sauce tureen. A few bread crumbs, and a 
 beaten egg should be added to tlie stuffing 
 of sausage meat. 
 
TUR 
 
 228 
 
 TUR 
 
 TURKEY, STUFFED WITH SAU- 
 SAGES AND CHESTNUTS. Roast 
 what (jiiaiuiiy of clicstnuts yon tliink neces- 
 sary, \yeel tliein, and pound a part of tliem 
 lo make a farce, with the liver, chopped 
 parsley, shallots, a little salt and pepper, a 
 bit of butter, and the yolks of three raw 
 eggs, put lU'is farce into the crop, and stuff 
 the body with the whole chestnuts, and small 
 sausages, first fried in butter till about half 
 done ; cover the turkey with slices of bacon, 
 and put paper over that, then roast it, and 
 serve with a chestnut cuUis. 
 
 TURNIPS, TO DRESS YOUNG 
 WHITE. Wash, peel, and boil them till 
 tender in water with a little salt; serve them 
 with melted buKer poured over them. Or, 
 They may \)e stewed in a pint of milk thick- 
 ened with a bit of butter rolled in flour, and 
 seasoned with salt and pepper, and served 
 with the sauce. 
 
 TURNIPS. Feel off half an inch of the 
 stringy outside. Full-grown turnips will 
 take about an hour and ahalf gentle boiling; 
 if you slice them, which m :st people do, they 
 will be done sooner; try them with a fork; 
 when tender, take them up, and lay them on 
 a sieve till the water is thoroughly drained 
 from I hem. Send them up whole; do not 
 slice them. 
 
 TURNIPS, TO Boil Yellow or 
 Large White. Wash, pare, and throw 
 them into cold water; put them on in boiling 
 water with a little salt, and boil them from 
 two hours to two and a half, drain them in 
 a cullender, put them into a saucepan, and 
 mixing in a bit of butter, with a beater uiash 
 them very smoothly, add half a pint of milk, 
 mix it well with the turnips, and make them 
 quite hot Ijefore serving. If they are to \ie 
 served plain, dish them as soon as the water 
 is drained off. 
 
 TURNIP TOPS, Are the shoots which 
 grow out (in the spring) of the old turnip 
 roots. Put them into cold water an hour 
 before they are to be dressed ; the more wa- 
 ter they are boiled in, the better they will 
 look ; if boiled in a small quantify of water 
 they will taste bitter: when the water boils, 
 put in a small handful of salt, and then your 
 vegetables; if fresh and young, they will be 
 done in about twenty minutes; drain them 
 on the back of a sieve. 
 
 TURTLE SOUP. (1) To dress a 
 Turtle weighing one hundred and twenty 
 pounds. Having cut off the head close to 
 the shell, hang up the turtle till the next 
 day, tlien open it, tearing the knife heavi- 
 ly on the Ixick of the animal in cutting it 
 
 off all round; turn it on its end, that all 
 the blood and water may nm out, then cut 
 the flesh off along the spine, sloping the knife 
 towards the bones so as to avoid touching 
 the gall, and having also cut the flesh from 
 the legs and other members, wash the whole 
 well and drain it. A large vessel of boil- 
 ing water being ready on the fire, put in 
 the breast shell, and when the plates will 
 separate easily take them out of the water; 
 boil the back and belly in water till the softer 
 parts can be taken off easily ; but before they 
 are sufficiently done, as they aie to be again 
 boiled in the sauce, lay them to cool singly 
 in eaithen vessels that they may not stick 
 together, let the bones continue to stew for 
 some time, as the liquor must be used for 
 moistening the sauces. 
 
 All tJie flesh cut from the body, the four 
 legs and head must be stewed in the following 
 manner. Lay a few slices of ham on the 
 bottom of a large stewpan, and over the ham 
 two oi' three knuckles of veal, then above the 
 veal, the inside flesh of the turtle, and that 
 of the members over the whole, adding a 
 large bunch of sweet herbs, such as sweet 
 basil, sweet marjoram, lem(jn ti)yme,a hand- 
 ful of parsley, and green onions, and a large 
 onion stuck with six doves. Then partly 
 moisten it with the water in which the shell 
 is lx)iling, and when it has stewed some 
 time, moisten it again with the liquor in 
 which the back and belly have been boiled. 
 When the legs are tender, take them out, 
 drain, and put them aside to be afterwards 
 added to the sauce; and when the flesh is 
 completely done, drain it through a silk sieve, 
 and mix with the .auce some very thin white 
 roux; then cut all the softer paits, now 
 sufficiently cold, into pieces about an inch 
 s(|uare, add them to the sauce, and let them 
 simmer gently till they can be easily pierced ; 
 skim it well. 
 
 Next chop a small quantity of herbs, and 
 boil them with a little sugar in four Iwttles 
 of Madeira till reduced to two, then rub it 
 through a tamn)y, mix it with the turtle 
 sauce, and let it boil for a short time. Make 
 some forcemeat balls as fbllows: — Cut off 
 about a pound of meat from the fleshy part 
 of a leg of veal free from sinews or fat, soak 
 in milk about the same quantity of crumbs 
 of bread ; when quite soft, squeeze and put 
 it into a mortar, together with the veal, a 
 small quantity of calf's uddei-, a little butter, 
 the yolks of four hard-boiletl egg^, a little 
 cayeime, salt and sf)ices; pound the whole 
 very finely, then thi\;ken the mixtme with 
 two whole eggs and the yolk of a third, throw 
 a bit into boiling water, and if not sutficiently 
 firm, add the y)lk of another egg, and for 
 variety some chopped parsley may l)e mixed 
 with half of the fo)cemeat. Let the whole 
 cool so that it may be formed into balls about 
 
TUR 
 
 229 
 
 VEAL 
 
 the size of the yolk of an egg, poach them in 
 Jboiiing water, and add them to the turtle. 
 Befijre serving, mix a little cayenne with 
 -jthe juice of two or three lemons, and add it 
 r to the soup. It is generally preferable to 
 prepare the soup the day before it is required 
 for use, and it will be best heated in a water 
 bath, or flat vessel containing water, which 
 is always kept very hot, but not allowed to 
 boil. By the same method, sauces, stews, 
 and other made dishes may be kept hot. 
 
 When the fins cf the turtle are to be served 
 as a side dish, they must be first parboiled, 
 then skinned, and stewed in a little turtle 
 sauce, with some Port wine, and seasoned 
 with cayenne, salt, and a little lemon-juice, 
 and thickened with butter and flour. 
 
 Fricandeaux and Blanquettes may also be 
 made of the flesh of the turtle, in the same 
 way as those of veal. 
 
 TURTLE SOUP. (2) The day before 
 you dress a turtle, chop the herbs, and make 
 the forcemeat; then, on the preceding eve- 
 ning, suspend the turtle by the two hind fins 
 with a cord; and put one round the neck, 
 with a heavy weight attached to it to draw 
 out the neck, that the head may be cut oft' 
 with more ease ; let the turtle hang all night, 
 in which time the blood will be well drained 
 from the body. Then, early in the morning, 
 having j'oin- stoves, and plenty of hot water 
 in readiness, take the turtle, lay it on the 
 table on its back, and with a strong pointed 
 knife cut all round the under shell, (which is 
 the callipee) ; there are joints at each end, 
 which must be carefully found, gently sepi- 
 niting it from the callipasli (which is the 
 upper shell) ; be careful that in cutting out 
 the gut you do not break the gall. When 
 the callipee and the callipash are perfectly 
 separated, take out that part of the gut that 
 leads from the throat; that, with the three 
 hearts, put into a basin of water by them- 
 selves; the other interior part put away. 
 Take the callipee, and cut off the meat 
 which adheres to it in four quarters, laying 
 it on a clean dish. Take twenty pounds of 
 veal, chop it up, and set it in a large pot, as 
 directed for expagnole, putting in the flesh 
 of the turtle at the same time, with all kinds 
 of turtle herbs, carrots, onions, one pound and 
 a half of lean ham, pepper corns, salt, a little 
 spice, and two bay leaves, leaving it to stew 
 till it takes the color of espagnole; put the 
 fins (the skin being scalded off") and hearts in, 
 half an hour before you fill it, with half wa- 
 ter, and half beef stock ; tlien carefidly skim 
 it; put in a bunch of parsley, and let it boil 
 gently, like consomme. While the turtle is 
 stewing, carefully scald the head, the calli- 
 pee, and all that is soft of the callipash, at- 
 tentively observing to take oft" the smallest 
 particle of skin that may remain; put them 
 
 with the gut into a large pot of water to boil 
 till tender; when so, take them out, and rat 
 them in squares, putting them in a basin by 
 themselves till wanted for the soup. The 
 next thing is the thickening of the soup, 
 which must be prepared in the same manner 
 as sauce foumee. The turtle being well 
 done, take out the fins and hearts, and lay (hem 
 on a dish ; the whole of the liquor must pass 
 through a sieve into a large pan ; then, with 
 a ladle, take oft" all the fat, put it into a ba- 
 sin, then mix in the turtle li(]uor (a small 
 quantity at a time) with the thickening made 
 the same as sauce tournee; but it does not 
 require to, neither must it be, one twentieth 
 part so thi('k ; set it over a brisk fire, and 
 continue stirring till it boils; when it has 
 boiled two hours, being skimmed all the 
 while, squeeze it through the tammy into 
 another large stewpan, put it on the fire, and 
 stir it as l)efore, till it boils; when it has 
 boiled gently for one hour, put in the calli- 
 pee and callipash, with the gut, hearts, and 
 some of the best of the meat and head, all 
 cut in squares, with the forcemeat balls and 
 herbs, which you should have ready chopped 
 and stewed in espagnole j (the herbs are 
 parsley, lemon thyme, marjoram, basil, sa- 
 vory, and a few chopped mushrooms). It 
 must Ije carefully attended to and skimmed, 
 and one hour and a half l)efore dinner, put in 
 a bottle of Madeira wine, and nearly half a 
 bottle of brandy, keeping it c<intiniially boil- 
 in* gently, and skimming it; then take a 
 basin, put a little cayenne pepper into it, 
 with the juice of six lemons squeezed through 
 a sieve. W^hen the diimer is wanted, skim 
 the turtle, stir it well up, and put in a little 
 salt, if necessary ; then stir in the cayenne 
 and lemon-juice, and ladle it into the tureen. 
 This receipt will answer for a turtle between 
 fifty and sixty pounds. 
 
 |C3=' For Mock Turtle and oihm- 
 Soups, See Soups. 
 
 TWELFTH 
 Icing. 
 
 CAKE ICING. S^e 
 
 V. 
 
 VEAL. The names of die joints are as 
 follows: Loin, best end — Loin, chump end 
 — Fillet — Hind Knuckle — Fore knuckle — 
 Neck, best end — Neck, scrag end — Blade 
 bone — Breast, best end — Brisket end. 
 
 Veal should be fine in the grain, firm, 
 white, and fat, and the leg bone small. The 
 finest calves have the smallest kidney, aiH it* 
 lieing well covered with thick white fat, in- 
 dicates good veal. The fillet of a cow calf 
 is to be preferred, on account of the udder. 
 The prime joints are tite fillet, tiie loin, the 
 
VEAL 
 
 230 
 
 VEAL 
 
 chomp end of the loin, and the best end of 
 the neck. To keep it, the same directions 
 may be followed, which are given for keeping 
 beef. 
 
 When the fillet is to be roasted, it should 
 be washed, well dried, and the bone taken 
 out, and die space filled with a fine stutTing, 
 part of which should be put under the flap, 
 then formed into a round and firmly skew- 
 ered. That the fire may be clean and strong, 
 it should be madeups<imetime before putting 
 down the roast, which should at first bo 
 placed at some distance from it, and be fre- 
 quently and well basted with butter. When 
 about half roasted, a piece of white paper is 
 tied over the fat; a little before serving, it 
 is removed, the meat is then sprinkled with 
 salt, dredged with flour, and well basted to 
 froth it. When dished, finely melted butter 
 18 poured over it, with which may or may 
 not be mixed some lemon pickle or brown 
 gravy. It is garnished with cut lemon. 
 
 Veal is expected to come to table looking 
 delicately clean; and it is so easily discol- 
 ored, that you must be careful to have clean 
 water, a clean vessel, and constantly catch 
 the scum as soon and as long as it rises. 
 Send up bacon, fried sausages, or pickled 
 pork, greens, and parsley and butter, and 
 onion sauce. 
 
 Veal requires particular care to roast it a 
 nice brown. Let the fire be the same as for 
 beef; a sound large fire for a large joint, and 
 a brisker for a smaller ; put it at some dis- 
 tance from the fire to soak thoroughly, and 
 then draw it near to finish it brown. 
 
 When first laid down, it is to be basted; 
 baste it again occasionally. When the veal 
 is on the dish, pour over it half a pint of 
 melted butter: if you have a little brown 
 gravy by you, add that to the butter. With 
 those joints which are not stuffed, send up 
 forcemeat in l)alls, or rolled into sausages, as 
 garnish to the dish, or fried pork sausages; 
 bacon and greens, are also always expected 
 with boiled veal. 
 
 Fillet of Veal, Of from twelve to sixteen 
 pounds, will re<iuire from four to five hours 
 at a good fire ; make some sluflSng or force- 
 meat, and put it in under the flap, that there 
 may be some left to eat cold, or to season a 
 hash ; brown it, and pour good melted butter 
 over iu 
 
 Garnish with thin slices of lemon and 
 cakes or balls of stufiing, or duck etuflSng, or 
 fried pork sausages, curry sauce, bacon and 
 greens, &c. 
 
 A bit of the brown outside is a favorite 
 with the epicure in roasts. The kidney, cut 
 out, sliced, and broiled, is a high relish, 
 which some bons vivarUs are fond of. 
 
 A Loin, Is the best part of the calf, and 
 will take about three hours roasting. Pa- 
 per tlie kidney fat, and the back: some 
 
 cooks send it up on a toast, which is eaten 
 with the kidney and (he fat of this part, 
 which is as delicate as any marrow. If 
 there is more of it than you think will be 
 eaten with the veal, before you roast it cut 
 it out ; it will make an excellent suet pud- 
 ding; take care to have your fire long 
 enough to brown the ends; same accom- 
 paniments as alwve. 
 
 A Shoulder, From three hours to three 
 hours and a half; stuff it with the force- 
 meat ordered for the fillet of veal, in the 
 under side. 
 
 Neck, best end. Will take two hours; 
 same accompaniments as fillet. The scrag 
 part is best made into a pie, or broth. 
 
 Breast, From an hour and a half to two 
 hours. Let the caul remain till it is almost 
 done, then take it off to brown it; baste, 
 flour, and fioth it. 
 
 This makes a savory relish for a luncheon 
 or su[)[)er: or, instead of roasting, boil it 
 enougli ; put it in a cloth between two pew- 
 ter dishes, with a weight on the upper one, 
 and let it remain so till cold; then pare 
 and trim, egg, and crumb it, and broil, or 
 warm it in a Dutch oven ; serve with it 
 cajiers, or wow wow sauce. Breast of 
 mutton may be dressed the same way. 
 
 VEAL ALAMOUE. 
 mode. 
 
 See BeefAla- 
 
 VEAL BREAST, STEWED WITH 
 Green Peas. Make a (juart of gravy 
 with the scrag end; strain it; cut the rest 
 of the veal into small pieces of nearly an 
 equal size; putjt into a stewpan with the 
 gravy, some |)ep|)er, salt, mace, half an 
 ounce of butter, anrl a tjuart of green peas. 
 Cover the pan closely, and let it stew nearly 
 two hours; then put in a lettuce cut small, 
 and let it stew half an hour longer. A lit- 
 tle before serving, add half an ounce of 
 browned butter, mixed with a little flour. 
 
 VEAL BREAST, BROILED. Half 
 roast and then score it; season it with pars- 
 ley, a few finely-minced sweet herbs, a lit- 
 tle j)epper and salt, and broil it. Make a 
 sauce with some giavy seasoned with onion, 
 grated nutmeg, mace, salt, and an anchovy ; 
 boil and strain it; thicken it with flour and 
 butter. Add some minced capers and small 
 mushrooms ; pour it quite hot over the veal. 
 Garnish with sliced lemon. 
 
 VEAL BREAST, COLLARED. Bone 
 it, and lay over it a thick layer of force- 
 meat, made with bread crumbs, chopped 
 oysterS; parsley, and grated ham, seasoned 
 with lemon-peej, salt, pepper, and nutmeg, 
 mixed with an egg beaten up. Roll and 
 bind it witli tape ; boil it in a cloth, and put 
 
VEAL 
 
 231 
 
 VEAL 
 
 it on in boiling water ; let it boil gently for 
 three hours. Boil the bones with an onion, 
 a bunch of sweet herbs, salt, and pepper; 
 strain and thicken it with three table-spoon- 
 fuls of cream, the yolks of two eggs beaten 
 up, and a bit of butter mixed with flour. 
 Parboil and slice the sweetbread, dip it 
 into an egg, and strew over it grated bread; 
 fry it with forcemeat balls. Serve the 
 veal with the sauce poured over it. Gar- 
 nish with the sweetbread and forcemeat 
 balls. 
 
 VEAL BREAST, STEWED. (1) Half 
 roast the veal till of a light brown, then 
 stew it over a stove for two hours, in a 
 rich gravy, with a shallot, three cloves, a 
 blade of mace, a little walnut pickle, some 
 oyster liquor, and a few small mushrooms. 
 Half an hour before serving, add a little 
 anchovy liquor. Garnish with cut lemon 
 and curled parsley. 
 
 VEAL BREAST, STEWED. (2) Cut 
 
 out the blade bone, and stuff the whole with 
 a nice forcemeat ; sew it up, half rojist it, 
 and make a quart of gravy of the bones and 
 trimmings; season it with whole pepper, 
 two blades of mace, a bit of lemon-peel, a 
 large onion, some salt, and a bunch of pars- 
 ley. Strain and thicken it with butter roll- 
 ed in flour; put io the veal, and a table- 
 spoonful of vinegar; let it stew nearly two 
 hours. A little before serving, add a table- 
 spoonful of lemon pickle, and a glass of 
 white wine. Forcemeat balls may be serv- 
 ed with it. 
 
 VEAL BREAST, STEWED. (3) Cut 
 
 off the short bones or gristles of a breast 
 of veal; stew them in a little white stock, 
 with a slice of ham, an onion stuck with 
 one or two cloves, some whole f)epper, a 
 bunch of parsley, and a little salt. When 
 tender, take out the meat, strain the stock, 
 and put it on with a pint and a half of 
 green p)eas; boilthem, and add the veal, 
 and let them stew for twenty minutes. 
 Serve the gristles in the middle, and the 
 peas round them. 
 
 VEAL BROTH. See Broth. 
 
 VEAL, BROWN ROLLKLOPS. Cut 
 
 off some thin slices from a fillet of veal, and 
 beat them. Take part of the fat from the 
 loin and kidney : mince it finely with a 
 small bit of veal, and six anchovies; season 
 with salt, pounded ginger, and mace ; put 
 it over the slices of veal, and roll them up. 
 Dip them into the beaten yolk of an egg, 
 and then into grated bread; repeat this a 
 second time, and fry them of a nice brown 
 color in clarified beef dripping, then stew 
 
 them in some good gravy, adding a little 
 walnut pickle and half a pint of white wine. 
 
 VEAL CAKE. Take some nice thin 
 slices of veal, and season them with salt, 
 pepper, and nutmeg, grated; have ready 
 some hard-boiled eggs, sliced, and put a 
 layer of these at the bottom of a basia 
 or pan, then a layer of veal, then some slices 
 of ham, over this strew marjoram, thyme, 
 parsley, shred fine, bread crumbs and lemon- 
 peel, chopped small ; then a layer of eggs, 
 veal, ham, &c. and so continue till the pan 
 is filled; pour some good gravy over the 
 whole, cover the pan with coarse brown 
 paper, tie it closely over, and set it to bake 
 in a slow oven; an hour will be sufficient 
 to bake it; when cold, turn it out upon a 
 dish, and serve; garnish with parsley. 
 
 VEAL CAKE, io be eaten cold. Pound 
 in a mortar as much cold roasted lean veal 
 as will fill a small mould, together with a 
 slice of ham, or bacon, a piece of the crumb 
 of bread soaked in cold milk, two beaten 
 eggs, a small bit of butter, the same of shal- 
 lot, or onion ; season with pepper and salt, 
 and mix all well together ; butter the mould, 
 fill it, and bake it in an oven for about aa 
 hour; turn it out when cold, and cut it into 
 slices. Garnish with pickled eggs and pars- 
 ley. 
 
 VEAL COLD. Cut some cold veal into 
 thin slices, the size and thickness of a half 
 crown, dip them into the yolk of an egg 
 well beaten, cover them with bread crumbs, 
 sweet herbs, lemon-peel shred fine, and 
 grated nutmeg. Put a little fresh butter in- 
 to a pan, make it quite hot, fry the veal in 
 it, and when done, lay it on a dish by the 
 side of the fire; make a little gravy of a 
 bone of veal, shake a little flour into the 
 pan, stir it round, add the gravy and a little 
 lemon-juice, pour it over the veal, and gar- 
 nish with lemon. 
 
 VEAL CHOPS, BREADED. Take 
 
 six or seven handsomely cut chops, season 
 them well with salt and pepper, and put them 
 into melted butter ; when sufficiently soaked, 
 put them into beaten eggs, take them out, 
 and roll each separately in bread crumbs; 
 make the chops as lound as you can with 
 your hand, and lay them on a dish ; when 
 all are breaded, broil them slowly over a 
 moderate fire, that the bread may not be too 
 highly colored. Serve with clear gravy. 
 
 VEAL, TO COLLAR. Bone a broist 
 of veal, and beat it flat; cover the inside 
 with a nice stuffing moistened with eggs; 
 roll it very tightly, bind it, and Ixike it in an 
 oven with some weak stock in the dish. 
 
VEAL 
 
 232 
 
 VEAL 
 
 Mak« a rich gravy; strain and thicken it, 
 and pour it over the veal. Serve with or 
 without forcemeat balls, and garnish with 
 cut lemon. It will keep fur a long time in 
 a pickle made with bran and water, a little 
 salt, and vinegar, poured cold over it. 
 
 VEAL CONES. Mince small one pound 
 and a half of cold veal, two ounces of butter, 
 and a slice of lean ham; pound them in a 
 mortar, and mix, in five table-spoonfuls of 
 cream, two tea-spoonfuls of pepper, one of 
 salt, and some grated lemon-peel. Make it 
 op into cones about three inches high ; rub 
 them over with an egg beaten up, sift grated 
 bread over tliem, and fry them of a light 
 brown color; put fried bread crumbs into 
 the dish, and place the cones upon them, or 
 serve them with a brown gravy instead of 
 crumbs. jCk>ld fowl, turkey, or rabbit make 
 good cones. Half the ingredients will be 
 sufficient for a corner dish. 
 
 VEAL, COLD DRESSED. Mince 
 finely the fat and lean of cold roast veal, 
 season it with grated nutmeg, lemon-peel, 
 pepper, and salt; moisten it with a little 
 rich white stock, and a teaten egg; butter 
 a pudding, shape, put in the mince, and 
 press it firmly, cover it closely, and set it 
 into a pan of boiling water; let it boil an 
 hour or two. Serve it with a white gravy 
 thickened, or when turned out of the shape, 
 rub it over the top with the beaten yolk of 
 an egg; sift bread crumbs thickly over, and 
 brown it in a Dutch oven; baste it with a 
 little melted butter. Garnish with fried 
 parsley or cut lemon. 
 
 VEAL CUTLETS. (1) Let your cutlets 
 be about half an inch thick; trim them, and 
 flatten them with a cleaver; you may fry 
 them in fresh butler, or good drippings ; when 
 brown on one side, turn them and do tlie 
 Other; if the fire is very fierce, they must 
 change sides oftener. The time they will 
 take depends on the thickness of the cutlet 
 and the heat of the fire; half an inch thick 
 vrill take about fifteen minutes. Make some 
 gravy, by putting the trimmings into a stew- 
 pan with a little soft water, an onion, a roll 
 of lemon-peel, a blade of mace, a sprig of 
 tliyme and parsley, and a bay leaf; stew 
 over a <!low fire an hour, then strain it; put 
 an ounc^e of butter into a slewpan; as soon 
 a.s it is melted, mix with it as much flour as 
 will dry it up, stir it over the fire for a few 
 minutes, then add the gravy by degrees till 
 ft is all mixed, boil it for five minutes, 
 and strain it through a tamis sieve, and put 
 it to the cutlets ; you may add some brown- 
 " ing, mushroom, or walnut ketchup, or lemon 
 pickle, &c.: Or, Cut the veal into pieces 
 about as big as a crown-piece, heat ihem 
 
 with a cleaver, dip them in eggs beat up 
 wiih a little salt, and then in fine bread 
 crumbs; fry them a light brown in boiling 
 lard ; serve under them some good gravy or 
 mushroom sauce, which may be made in five 
 minutes. Garnish with slices of ham or 
 rashers of bacon, or pork sausages. 
 
 Veal forcemeat or stuffing, pork sausages, 
 rashers of bacon, are very relishing accom- 
 paniments, fried and sent up in (he form of 
 balls or cakes, and laid round as a garnish. 
 
 VEAL CUTLETS. (2) Cut a neck of 
 veal into cutlets, or take them off a leg. 
 Season two well-beaten eggs with pounded 
 mace, nutmeg, salt, pepper, and finely-chop- 
 ped sweet marjoram, lemon thyme, and pars- 
 ley; dip the cutlets into it, sift over them 
 grated bread, and fry them in clarified butter. 
 Serve with a white sauce, forcemeat balls, 
 and small mushrooms. Garnish with fried 
 parsley. 
 
 VEAL CUTLETS. (3) Cut a neck 
 of veal into thin cutlets, and beat them; 
 brown some butter with an onion and some 
 parsley chopped small. Dip the cutlets into 
 the butter, and then into finely grated bread, 
 seasoned with pepper and salt; broil them 
 of a brown color; mince the peel of half an 
 orange pared very thin; add it and a grate 
 of ginger to some good thickened gravy, and 
 pour it hot upon the cutlets. 
 
 VEAL CUTLETS. (4) Cut them off 
 a leg, or fiom the thick part of a loin of 
 veal; beat them a little with a rolling-pin, 
 and fry them in butler of a light brown. 
 Take them out of the pan, pour otf the but- 
 ter, and strew over them grated bread, sea- 
 soned with minced parsley and lemon thyme, 
 grated lemon-peel and nutmeg, pepper, and 
 salt. Put them into a stewpan, with a piece 
 of fresh butter, and let ihem fiy slowly till of 
 a good brown. Add a quarter of a pint of 
 good gravy, and a small tea-ctipfiil of tliick 
 cream; let it be made very hot, frequently 
 shaking the pan. Serve it garnished with 
 cut lemon or forcemeat balls, mushrooms, 
 and false eggs. False eggs are made of the 
 yolks of two hard-boilecl eggs, which are 
 rubbed smooth, and then made up with fresh 
 butter into the form of small eggs. 
 
 VEAL CUTLETS, VENITIAN. Cut 
 
 into neat cutlets the best part of a neck of 
 veal; trim and flatten them. Chop sepa- 
 rately half a pint of mushrooms, a few shal- 
 lots, and a little jmrslev; stew these over a 
 slow fire, with a small bit of butter and a 
 little raeped fat bacon. When done, put in 
 the cutlets, and season them well with pepper 
 and salt, and let them stew over a slow fire 
 till quite tender; skim off' the fat, and add 
 
VEAL 
 
 233 
 
 VEAL 
 
 a spoonful of sauce tournee, and the yolks 
 of three eggs beaten with a little cream, then 
 mix in the juice of a lemon, and a little cay- 
 enne. 
 
 VEAL, FILLET, STEWED. Bone, 
 lard, and stuff a fillet of veal ; half roast, and 
 tlien stew it with two quarts of white stock, 
 a tea-spoonful of lemon pickle and one of 
 mushroom ketchup. Before serving, strain 
 the gravy, thicken it with butler rolled in 
 flour, add a little cayenne, salt, and some 
 pickled mushrooms; heat it, and pour it over 
 tlie veal. Have ready two or three dozen of 
 forcemeat balls to put round it and upon the 
 top. Garnish with cut lemon. 
 
 VEAL, FLORENTINE. Take two 
 veal kidneys, and mince them with their 
 fat, very small, and mix it with a few cur- 
 rants, the yolks of four or five eggs, bailed 
 hard, and chopped small, a pippin cut fine, 
 some bread crumbs, candied lemon-jjeel, cut 
 small, and season with nutmeg, cloves, salt, 
 mace, a little mountain wine, and some 
 orange-flower water ; line the bottom of a 
 dish with a nice puff paste, put in the above, 
 cover it with puff paste, and set it to bake 
 in a slow oven. 
 
 VEAL FORCEMEAT. Of undressed 
 lean veal (after you have scraped it quite 
 fine, and free from skin and sinews), two 
 ounces, the same quantity of beef or veal 
 suet, and the same of bread crumbs; chop 
 fine two drachms of parsley, one of lemon- 
 peel, one of sweet herbs, one of onion, and 
 half a drachm of mace, or allspice, beaten to 
 fine powder ; pound all together in a mortar ; 
 break into it the yolk and white of an egg; 
 rub it all up well together, and season it with 
 a little pepper and salt. This may lie made 
 more savory by the addition of cold boiled 
 pickled tongue, anchovy, eschalot, cayenne 
 or curry powder, &c. 
 
 VEAL,FRICANDEAT7. (1) Cut a piece 
 of veal from the leg, the same in width and 
 depth, and about eight inches in length. 
 Make a hole in the under part, and fill it 
 with forcemeat ; sew it up, lard the top and 
 sides, cover it with slices of fat bacon, and 
 then with while paper. Put into a sauce- 
 pan some slices of undressed mutton, three 
 onions and one carrot sliced, a bunch of 
 Bweet herbs, and a quart of good stock ; put 
 in the veal, cover the pan closely, and let it 
 stew for three hours. Take out the veal, 
 strain the gravy, and take off all the fat; 
 add a table-spoonful of lemon pickle, and 
 three of white wine ; IkjII it quick to a glaze ; 
 keep the fi icaiuleau over hot water and cov- 
 ered, then glaze it, and serve with the rest 
 20* 
 
 of the glaze poured round it, and sorrel sauce, 
 in a sauce tureen. 
 
 VEAL, FRICANDEAU. (2) Cut some 
 slices of veal, lard them all through, and put 
 them into a saucepan with some white stock, 
 and a bit of ham, one onion, a little mace 
 and pepper. Stew them gently an hour and 
 a half; take them out, strain the gravy, and 
 take off all the fat; boil it up quickly, lay in 
 the fricandeau, and stew them till the liquor 
 becomes like a brown jelly; lake care they 
 do not burn. Scald in boiling water three 
 handfuls of sorrel, chop it, take out the meat, 
 and make the sorrel hot in the sauce, and 
 serve the fricandeau upon it. 
 
 VEAL, FRICANDEAU. (3) Chop venr 
 finely one pound of the lean of a loin of veal, 
 and half a pound of the kidney fat; season 
 it with pepper, salt, grated lemon-peel, tl>e 
 juice of one lemon, and a finely-shred an- 
 chovy. Soak, in boiling milk, two rusks, 
 or biscuits, and mix it all well together; 
 make it into balls, with a little flour. Fry 
 them of a light brown, in butter, then stew 
 them in some highly-seasoned gravy, dish 
 tliem carefully, and strain the gravy over 
 i them. Garnish with cut lemon. 
 
 VEAL, FRICANDEAU. (4) Take the 
 round or part of the round of a fillet, fry it 
 in butter, of a nice brown, with onions cut 
 in slices, and a little garlic, then set it to 
 slew in some very rich gravy or cuUis: when 
 tender, take it out, thicken the gravy with 
 flour, add a little lemon-juice, and serve 
 this sauce over the veal. 
 
 VEAL FRITTERS. Cut the remains 
 of a tender piece of veal into small, thin, 
 round pieces; dip these into a good batter, 
 and fry them in the usual way, in oil. When 
 done, drain, sprinkle salt over, and serve 
 diem. 
 
 VEAL, HASHED OR MINCED. To 
 
 make a hash cut the meat into slices; — to 
 prepare minced veal, mince it as fine as 
 possible (do not chop it) ; put it into a stew- 
 pan with a few spoonfuls of veal or mutton 
 broth, or make some with the bones and 
 trimmings, as orderal for veal cutlets, a little 
 lemon-peel minced fine, a spoonful of milk or 
 cream; thicken with butter and flour, and 
 season it with salt, a table-spoonful of lemon 
 pickle, or Basil wine, or a pinch of curry 
 powder. 
 
 If you have no cream, beat up the yolks 
 of a couple of eggs with a little milk: line 
 the dish widi sippets of lightly toasted bread. 
 
 Minced veal makes a very pretty dish put 
 into scollop shells, and bread crumbed over. 
 
VEAL 
 
 234 
 
 VEAL 
 
 and sprinkled with a little butter, and brown- 
 ed in a Dutch oven, or a cheese-toaster. 
 
 VEAL, KEBOBBED. Cut into thin 
 bits the size of a crown-piece some lean veal ; 
 season theui with tumeric, |)epper, and salt. 
 Slice onions very thinly, and some garlic: 
 put the slices of veni and onion upon a skewer, 
 together widi thin bits of pickled pork. Fry 
 ihem brown with butter, and garnish with 
 plenty of fried parsley. 
 
 VEAL, KNUCKLE, RAGOUT. Cut 
 
 a knuckle of veal into slices about half an 
 inch thick; pepper, salt, and flour them; 
 fi-y them a light brown ; put the trimmings 
 into a stewpan, with the bone broke in sev- 
 eral placet*; ;*.n onion sliced, a head of cele- 
 ry, a bunch of sweet herbs, and two blades 
 of bruised mace: pour in warm water enough 
 to cover them about an inch ; cover the pot 
 close, and let it stew vei y gently for a couple 
 of hours; strain it, and then thicken it with 
 flour and butler ; put in a spoonful of ketch- 
 up, a glass of wine, and juice of half a lemon ; 
 give it a boil up, and strain into a clean 
 stewpan ; put in the meat, make it hot, 
 and serve up. 
 
 Obs. — If celery is not to be had, use a 
 carrot instead or flavor it with celery seed. 
 
 VEAL KNUCKLE, STEWED WITH 
 RICE. As boiled knuckle of veal cold is 
 not a ve)y favorite relish w itit the generality, 
 cut off some steaks from it, which you may 
 dress as in the foregoing receipt, and leave 
 the knuckle no larger than will be eaten the 
 day it is dressed. Break the shank bone, 
 M-ash it clean, and put it in a large stewpan 
 with two ^quarts of water, an onion, two 
 blades of mace, and a lea-s|)oonful of salt: 
 get it on a quick fire ; when it boils, take 
 off all the scum. Wash and pick a quarter 
 of a pound of rice ; put it into tlie stewpan 
 with the meat, and let it stew very gently 
 for about two hours: put the meat, &c. in a 
 deep dish, and the rice round it. Send up 
 bacon with it, parsnips, or greens, and finely 
 minced parsley and butter. 
 
 VEAL, KNUCKLE, SOUP. A knuckle 
 of veal of six pounds, weight, will make a 
 large tureen of excellent soup, and is thus 
 easily prepared: cut half a pound of bacon 
 into slices alwut half an inch thick, lay it at 
 tile bottom of a soup-kettle, or deep stewpan, 
 and on this place the knuckle of veal, having 
 first chopped the bone in two or three places ; 
 furnish it with two carrots, two turnips, a 
 head of celery, two large onions, with two 
 or three cloves stuck in one of them, a dozen 
 <;orns of black, and the same of Jamaica 
 pepper, and a good bundle of lemon thyme, 
 * winter savory, and parsley. Just cover the 
 
 meat with cold water, and set it over a quick 
 fire till it boils; having skimmed it well, 
 remove your soup-kettle to the side of the 
 fire ; let il stew veiy gently till it is quite 
 tender, i. e. about four hours ; then take out 
 the bacon and veal, strain the soup, and set 
 it by in a cool place till yon want it, when 
 you must take off" the fat from the surface of 
 your liquor, and decant it (keeping back tlie 
 settlings at the bottom) into a clean pan. 
 
 If you like a thickened soup, put three ta- 
 ble-spoonfuls of the fat vou have taken oft' the 
 soup into a small stewpan, and mix it with 
 four table-spoonfuls of flour, pour a ladleful 
 of soup to it, and mix it with the rest by de- 
 grees, and boil it up till it is smooth. 
 
 Cut the meal and gristle of the knuckle 
 and the bacon into mouthfuls, and put them 
 into the soup, and let them get warm. 
 
 You may make this more savory by ad- 
 ding ketchup, &c. Shin of beef may be 
 dressed in the same way ; see Knuckle of 
 Veal stewed with Rice. 
 
 VEAL LEG IN SURPRISE. Lard 
 the veal with slips of baf-on, and a little 
 lemon-peel cut very thin ; make stuffing the 
 same as for a fillet of veal, only mix with it 
 half a pint of oysters chopped small, and 
 stufl" your veal with this, and put it to stew 
 with just sufficient water to cover it ; let it 
 stew very gently till (juite tender ; then take 
 it up; skim off the fat from the liquor, 
 and add some lemon-juice, some mushroom 
 ketchup, die crumb of a roll grated fine, half 
 a pint of oysters, a pint of cream, and a bit 
 of butter rolled in flour; let this sauce thick 
 en over the fire, and serve it over the veal ; 
 garnish the dish with oysters, dipped in 
 butter, and fried, and thin slices of toasted 
 bacon. 
 
 VEAL, MINCED. Cut thin slices of 
 lean cold veal ; mince ihem very finely with 
 a knife, and season with pepper, salt, grated 
 lemon-peel and nutmeg; put it into a sauce- 
 pan, with a little while stock or water, a 
 table-spoonful of lemon pickle, and a little 
 mushroom powder. Simmer, but do not let 
 it boil ; add a bit of butter rolled in flour, 
 and a little milk or cream; put all round 
 the dish thin sippets of bread cut into a 
 three-cornered shape; or cover the mince 
 thickly with grated bread, seasoned with 
 pepper, salt, and a little butter, and brown 
 it with a salamandi'r ; or serve with poached 
 eggs laid upon the top. 
 
 VEAL OLIVES. Cut thin slices off a 
 fillet, and flatten them with a roller; season 
 them highly with pepper, mace, salt, and 
 grated lemon-peel; put a bit of fat into each 
 roll, and tie diem with a thread. Fry them 
 of a li'dit brown, and stew tlietn in some 
 
VEAL 
 
 235 
 
 VEAL 
 
 white stock with two dozen of fried oysters, 
 a glass of white wine, a table-spoonful of 
 lemon pickle and some small mushrooms. 
 Stew them nearly an hour; take off the 
 threads before serving. 
 
 Beef olives may be dressed in the same 
 way. 
 
 VEAL PATTIES. Mince some under- 
 done veal with a little parsley, one or two 
 sage leaves, a very little onion ; season wi.th 
 grated lemon-peel, nutmeg, |iepper, and salt; 
 add some grated lean ham or tongue, moisten 
 it with some good gravy, heat it up, and put 
 it into the patties. 
 
 VEAL AND HAM PATTIES. Chop 
 about six ounces of ready-dressed lean veal, 
 and three ounces of ham very small ; put it 
 into a stewpan with an ounce of butter roll- 
 ed into dour, half a gill of cream ; half a 
 gill of veal stock ; a little grated nutmeg and 
 lemon-peel, some cayenne pepper and salt, a 
 spoonful of essence of ham and lemon-juice^ 
 and stir it over the Are • sometime, taking 
 care it does not bum. 
 
 VEAL AND HAM PIE. Take two 
 pounds of veal cutlets, cut them in middling- 
 sized pieces, season with pepper and a very 
 little salt; likewise one of raw or dressed 
 ham cut in slices, lay it alternately in the 
 dish, and put some forced or sausage meat 
 at the top, with some stewed button mush- 
 rooms, and the yolks of three eggs boiled 
 hard, and a gill of water; then proceed as 
 with rump-steak pie. 
 
 N. B. — The best end of a neck is the fine 
 part for a pie, cut into chops, and the chine 
 bone taken away. 
 
 VEAL PIE. (1) Cut a neck of veal into 
 neat steaks, season them well with white 
 pepper, salt, mace, and grated nutmeg mix- 
 ed; pack them closely into a dish, and put 
 in half a pint of white stock ; five hard-boil- 
 ed yolks of eggs may be added ; put pufl^ 
 paste on the edge of the dish, and cover with 
 tlie same. Lambs' tails may be made into a 
 pie, with lamb chops seasoned in the same 
 manner as (he above. 
 
 VEAL PIE. (2) Cut into steaks a 
 loin or breast of veal, season them highly 
 with pepjjer, salt, giaied nutmeg, mace, and 
 a little lemon-peel mixed ; lay them into 
 the bottonj of a dish, and then a few slices 
 of sweetbreads seasoned with the spices; 
 add some oysters, l()rcemeat balls, and hard- 
 boiled yolks of egg?!, half a pint of white 
 stock, a glass of white wine, and a table- 
 spoonful of lemon pickle; put puff |>aste on 
 tlie edge of the dish, and cover with the 
 same : bake it for one hour. 
 
 VEAL PIE. (3) Chop, but not very 
 small, the meat of a cold loin of veni, season 
 it with minced parsley, pepper, salt, grated 
 lemon-peel, and nutmeg; add rather nfcre 
 than half a pint of stock made with the 
 bones, thickened with a bit of butter rolled 
 in flour, and seasoned with a tea-spoonful 
 of lemon pickle, and a table-spoonful of 
 white wine ; make a paste of the fat of tlie 
 loin, and an equal quantity of Hour, rub it 
 together, and mix with it a little cold water, 
 roll it out two or three times, line tlie sides 
 of tlie dish, put in the meat, and cover it. 
 
 VEAL PIE, SOLID. Stew in veal 
 stock, till it be perfectly tender and like a 
 jelly, a piece of a knuckle of veal, with the 
 gristles adhering to it; let it cool, and then 
 pull the meat and gristles into small bits; 
 butter a pie dish or shape, and lay at regular 
 distances some hard-boiled yolks of eggs, 
 and some of the white part cut into rings 
 or strips ; then put over some bits of the 
 meat and gristle, and strew over il some 
 pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg mixed, and 
 a little of the gravy, and then more eggs, 
 with small bits of beet root, green pickles, 
 and the red part of a carrot cut to fancy; 
 add more meat seasoning, and all the gravy; 
 when the shape is full, put it into an oven 
 for twenty minutes, and when quite cold 
 turn it out. If rightly done, it will have a 
 glazed appearance, and the variety of col- 
 ors look well by candle light. 
 
 VEAL, POTTED. Cut slices off a leg 
 of veal, and season therh with pepper, pound- 
 ed mace, cloves, and salt. Lay thin slices 
 of fresh butter between each layer of meat 
 into a potting pan or jar; cover it closely, 
 and bake it with bread. When it is cold, 
 pound the meat in ^ marble mortar, pack it 
 closely into a jar, and pour clarified butter 
 over it. 
 
 VEAL, COLD, AN EXCELLENT 
 RAGOUT. Either a neck, loin, or fillet of 
 veal, will furnish this excellent ragout with 
 a very little expense or trouble. 
 
 Cut the veal into handsome cutlets ; put 
 a piece of butter or clean dripping into a 
 frying-pan ; as soon as it is hot, flour and 
 fry the veal of a light brown: take it out, 
 and if you have no gravy ready, make some 
 as directed under sauces, or put a pint of 
 boiling water into the frying-pan, give it a 
 boil up for a minute, and strain il into a 
 basin while you make some thickening in 
 the following manner: put about an ounce 
 of butter into a stewpan; as soon as itmelis, 
 mix with it as much flour as will diy it up; 
 stir it over the fire for a few minutes, and 
 gradually add to it the gravy you made in 
 the frying-pan; let them simmer together 
 
VEAL 
 
 236 
 
 VEG 
 
 for ten minutes (till thoroughly incor|)orat- 
 ed); season it with pepper, salt, a little 
 mace, and a wine-glassful of mushroom 
 ketchup or wine; strain it througl) a tamis 
 to the meat, and stew very gently till the 
 meat is thoroughly warmed. If you have 
 any ready-boiled bacon, cut it in slices, and 
 put it in to warm with the meat. 
 
 VEAL ROLL. Bone a small breast of 
 veal, and spread over it a rich and higiily- 
 seasoned forcemeat. Cut four hard-lxjiled 
 eggs the long way into four pieces, and lay 
 them in rows, with green pickles between 
 each row. Roll up the veal tightly, and 
 tew it; then put it into a cloth, and bind it 
 with tape. Lay a slice of ham over it, and 
 put it into a saucepan, together with some 
 strong stock, and a little whole pepper, and 
 Btew it for three hours. Make a rich gra- 
 vy, and boil it up with a little white wine 
 and lemon-juice or lemon-pickle; po ir it 
 over the veal ; add some egg and forcemeat 
 balls, and garnish with cut green pickles. 
 Thij dish is very gopd when cold. 
 
 VEAL SAUSAGES. Take equal quan- 
 tities of lean veal and fat bacon, a handful 
 of sage, and a few anchovies. Beat all in 
 a mortar, and season well with pepper and 
 salt; when wanted for use, roll and fry it, 
 and serve either with fried sippets, or on 
 Stewed vegetables, or white coUops. 
 
 VEAL SEMELLES. Cut part of a 
 fillet of veal into slices an inch thick, season 
 them with salt and p.;pper, »id give them a 
 few turns in a little butter, with a bay leaf. 
 Lay at the Iwttom of a deep saucepan a very 
 thin slice of bacon, and on it one of the 
 slices of veal, and continue to lay diem in 
 alternately, until the whole are used, then 
 add a glass of water and some bay leaves ; 
 close the saucepan very tight, first putting 
 a sheet of paper over tiie meat ; stew it on 
 hot ashes for four or five hours ; take care 
 to keep the fire up to tlie same point ail the 
 time. 
 
 VEAL STOCK. Cut a leg of veal and 
 some lean ham into pieces, put them into 
 a saucepan, with a quart of water, some 
 carrots, turnips, onions, leeks, and celery ; 
 stew them down till nearly done, but do not 
 let it color; then add a sufficient quantity 
 of beef stock to cover the ingredients, and 
 let it boil for an hour; skim off all the fat, 
 and strain it ; a little game slewed down 
 with the above will greatly improve the fla- 
 vor; be particularly careful that it does not 
 burn. 
 
 VEAL SWEETBREADS ROASTED. 
 
 Trim off the tough part, and blanch for thiee 
 
 minutes in a stevvpan of water, with a little 
 salt, three heart sweeibre-ads, then take them 
 out, and put them info a basin of cold water 
 till cool; have an egg heat up in a dish, some 
 bread crumbs, and clarified butter, run a 
 skewer through the sweetbreads, and fasten 
 them on tiie spit ; egg them all over, shake 
 some bread crumbs over, then sprinkle clari- 
 fied butter over, and then bread crumbs 
 again ; put them down to roast again for a 
 quarter of an hour, then take them off tho 
 skewer, and serve them on a dish over a little 
 butter sauce, mixed with a spoonful of gravy, 
 a small bit of glaze, and a scjueeze of lemon- 
 juice; let it be hot, but not boiling, and 
 tiidioughly well mixed before it is served 
 under the sweetbreads. 
 
 VEGETABLES. There is nothing in 
 which the difference between an elegant and 
 an ordinary table is more seen than in the 
 dressing of vegetables, more especially greens. 
 They may l)e e(]nally as fine at first, at one 
 place as at anodier; but their look and 
 taste are afterward very different, entirely 
 from the careless v\'ay in which they have 
 been cooked. 
 
 They are in greatest perfection when in 
 greatest {.lenty, i. e. when in full season. 
 
 By season, I do not mean diose early days, 
 that luxury in the buyers, and avarice in the 
 sellers, foice die vegetable^; but that time 
 of the year in which by nature and common 
 cukute, and the mere operation of the sun 
 and climate, they are in most plenty and 
 perfection. 
 
 As to the quality of vegetables, the middle 
 size ^^e preferred to the largest or the small- 
 est; they are more tender, juicy, and fiill 
 of flavor, just before they are quite full-grown. 
 Freshness is their chief value and excellence, 
 and I should as soon think of roasting an 
 animal alive, as of boiling a vegetable after 
 it is dead. 
 
 The eye easilv discovers if they have been 
 kept too long; they soon lose their beauty in 
 all respects. 
 
 Roots, greens, salads, &c. and the various 
 productions of the garden, when first gatlier- 
 e<l, are plump and firm, and have a ti-.igrant 
 freshness no art can give them ag-ain, w en 
 they have lost it by long keeping; though it 
 will refresh them a little to put them into 
 cold spring water for sometime before they 
 are dressed. 
 
 To boil them in soft water will preserve 
 the color best of such as are green ; if you 
 have only hard water, put to it a te;i-spoon- 
 ful of carbonate of potash. 
 
 Take caie to wash and cleanse them 
 thoroughly from dust, dirt, and insects: this 
 re(|uires great attention. Pick off all the 
 outjiide leaves, trim them nicely, and, if not 
 (juite fiesh galheied and have become flaccid. 
 
VE G 
 
 237 
 
 VEG 
 
 it is absolutely necessary to restore their 
 crispness before cooking tliem, or they will 
 be tough and unpleasant: "lay them in a pan 
 of clean water, with a handful of salt in it, 
 for an hour before you dress tlieni. 
 
 They should always be boiled in a sauce- 
 pan by themselves, and have plenty of water; 
 if meat is boiled with them in the same pot, 
 they will spoil the look and taste of each otiier. 
 if you wish to have vegetables delicately 
 clean, put on your pot, make it boil, put a 
 little salt in it, and skim it perfectly clean 
 before you put in the greens, &c.; which 
 should not be put in till the water boils brisk- 
 ly: the quicker they boil, the greener they 
 will he. When the vegetables sink, they are 
 generally done enough, if the water has loeen 
 kept constantly boiling. Take them up im- 
 mediately, or they will lose their color and 
 goodness. Drain the water from them 
 thoroughly before you send them to table. 
 This branch of cookery requires the most 
 vigilant attention. 
 
 If vegetables are a minute or two too long 
 over the fire, they lose all their beauty and 
 flavor. 
 
 If not thoioughly boiled tender, they are 
 tremendously indigestible, and much more 
 troublesome during their residence in tlie 
 stomach, than under-done meats. 
 
 Once for all, take care your vegetables 
 are fresh : for as the fishmonger often suffers 
 for the sins of the cook, so the cook often 
 gets undeservedly blamed instead of the 
 green-grocer. 
 
 Strong-scented vegetables should be kept 
 apart; leeks, or celery, laid among cauli- 
 flowers, &c. will quickly spoil them. 
 
 Succulent vegetables are best preserved in 
 a cool, shady, and damp place. 
 
 Potatoes, turnips, carrots, and similar 
 roots, intended to be stored up, should never 
 be cleaned tiom the earth adhering to them, 
 till they are to be dressed. 
 
 They must be protected from tlie action 
 of the air and frost, by laying them in heaps, 
 burying them in sand or earth, &c., or cov- 
 ering them with sti-aw or mats. 
 
 When vegetables are quite fresh gathered, 
 they will not require so much boiling, by at 
 least a third of the time, as when they have 
 been gathered the usual time of those that 
 are brought to public markets. 
 
 Vegetables are always best when newly 
 gathered, and should be brought in from the 
 garden early in the morning; they will then 
 have a fragrant freshness, which they lose by 
 keeping. 
 
 They must be cleaned with the greatest 
 care, the outside leaves of every description 
 of greens removed, and they, and all other 
 vegetables, more particularly when not re- 
 cently gathered, should be laid for several 
 hours in cold water, and well shaken to 
 
 throw out the insects. A tea-spoonful of 
 salt should always be put into the water ia 
 which they are to be boiled, and if it is hard, 
 a tea-spoonful of salt of tartar, or potash, 
 may be added to preserve the green cobr of 
 the vegetables. 
 
 All, vegetables should be boiled quickly, 
 and, with the exception of spinach, in an 
 open vessel, skimming them carefully. 
 
 Kitchen greens should be kept in a cool 
 and shady place. Potatoes, carrots, turnips, 
 and beet root should be stored up, without 
 being cleaned from the earth adhering to 
 them, in layers of sand, or laid in heaps, and 
 covered with earth and straw. Parsnips and 
 skirrets not being injured by frost, are gen- 
 erally left in the ground, and taken up as 
 wanted. Onions are stored in a warm, dly 
 place, never in a cellar; they are sometimes 
 strung in bunches, and suspended from the 
 roof, and, more effectually to prevent their 
 growing, some people select the finest bulbs, 
 and singe the roots with a hot iron. 
 
 Herbs of all sorts should be gathered when 
 in flower, and on a dry day, and being well 
 cleaned from dust and dirt, they are tied up 
 in small bunches, and dried before the fire in 
 a Dutch oven. They may then be kept in 
 paper bags labelled ; or rubbed to a powder, 
 sifted, and put into bottles. 
 
 VEGETABLE ESSENCES. The fla- 
 vor of the various sweet and savory herbs 
 may be obtained by combining their essen- 
 tial oils with rectified spirit of wine, in the 
 proportion of one drachm of the former to 
 two ounces of the latter, or by picking the 
 leaves, and laying them for a couple of 
 hours in a warm place to dry, and then fill- 
 ing a large-mouthed bottle with them, and 
 pouring on them wine, brandy, proof spirit, 
 or vinegar, and letting them steep for four- 
 teen days. 
 
 VEGETABLE MARROW, Is fit for 
 
 use when about the size of a turkey's egg. 
 After being washed clean, it is put on in 
 boiling water, with a little salt, and when 
 tender, it is drained from the water, cut into 
 half, and served on toasted bread, over 
 which some melted butter has been poured. 
 Or, after being boiled in milk and water, 
 they may be fricasseed as Jerusalem arti- 
 chokes, or stewed like cucumbers. 
 
 VEGETABLES STEW. Pick and 
 wash very clean as much spinach as will 
 make a dish ; mince finely three small on- 
 ions, pick and clwp two handfuls of parsley; 
 put all into a saucepan, with rather more 
 than half a pint of gravy, a bit of butter 
 dusted with flour, a little salt and pepper. 
 Cover the pan closely, stir it now and then, 
 and when the spinach is tender, mash it 
 
VEN 
 
 238 
 
 VEN 
 
 smooth, serve it with slices of broiled ham, 
 or with sausages. 
 
 VELOUTE. Take the cuttings and re- 
 mains of any joints of veal and fowl you 
 may liave in the house, of which take four 
 pounds, and put into a large stevvpan, with 
 some carrots, onions, parsley, scallions, 
 three bay-leaves, three cloves, and a ladle- 
 ful of stock ; put your stevvpan on a fierce 
 fire, skim it well, and take care that the 
 meat does not stick; when sufficiently re- 
 duced, add as much stock as will nearly fill 
 the stewpan, salt it well; give it a boil, 
 skim it, and then put it on the side of the 
 fire to simmer for two hours; after which 
 strain it through a tammy. Make a white 
 roux, stir into it for ten minutes a few 
 champignons, then pour on it, a little at a 
 time, the above liquor; let it boil up once, 
 skim it, and set it again by the side of the 
 fire for an hour and a half: take off all the 
 fat, strain it again, and then out it by for 
 use. Take care that the veloute is not in 
 the least colored, as, the whiter it is tlie 
 better. 
 
 VENISON. The choice of venison 
 should be regulated by the appearance of 
 the fat, which, wheu the venison is young, 
 looks thick, clear, and close; as it begins 
 to change first towards the haunches, run a 
 knife into that part; if tainted you will 
 perceive a rank smell, and it will have a 
 green or blackish appearance. 
 
 If you wish to preserve it, you may by 
 careful management and watching, keep it 
 for a fortnight by the following method : wash 
 it well with milk and water very clean, and 
 dry it perfectly with cloths until there is not 
 the least damp remaining, tlien dust pound- 
 ed ginger over every part ; this is a good 
 preventive against the fly. When to be 
 dressed, wash it witli a little lukewarm 
 water, and dry it. Pepper should also be 
 added to keep it. 
 
 VENISON COLLOPS. These are 
 dressed in the same manner as mince col- 
 lops of beef, only diat, in place of the sea- 
 soning of the collops of heef, they have a 
 little pepper, salt, and some Port wine. 
 
 VENISON, HASHED. (1) If you have 
 
 enough of its own gravy left, it is preferable 
 to any to warm it up in : if not, take some 
 of the mutton gravy, or the bones and trim- 
 mings of the joint (after you have cut off all 
 the handsome slices you can to make the 
 hash) ; put Uiese into some water, and stew 
 them gently for an hour ; dien put some but- 
 ter into a stew|)an; when melted, put to it 
 as much flour as will dry up the butter, and 
 ptir it well together; add to it by degiees 
 
 the gravy yon have been making of the trim- 
 mings, and some red currant jelly; give it a 
 boil up; skim it; strain it through a sieve, 
 and it is ready to receive the venison: put it 
 in, and let it just get wami: if you let it 
 boil, it will make the meat hard. 
 
 VENISON, HASHED. (2) Warm it 
 
 in its own gravy ; if there is no fat left, take 
 some slices of mutton fat, set it on the fire 
 with a little Port wine and sugar, and let it 
 simmer till dry ; then add it to llie hash. 
 
 VENISON, HASHED. (3) Take some 
 anchovies, boil them till they are dissolved, 
 then add some oysters with their liquor, a 
 little milk, some red wine, and a little ketch- 
 up; put in your venison, let it warm in this, 
 but do not let it boil, and serve it with fried 
 sippets, and the sauce &c. over it. 
 
 VENISON, MOCK. Hang up, for 
 several days, a large fat loin of mutton; then I 
 bone it, and take off" all tlie kidney fat, and 
 tlie skin from the upper fat; mix together 
 two ounces of brown sugar, and one ounce 
 of ground black pepper. Rub it well into 
 the mutton ; pour over it two or three wine- 
 glasses of Port wine ; keep it covered with 
 the skin ; rub and turn it daily for five days. 
 When to be roasted, cover it with the skin, 
 and paper it the same way as venison ia 
 done. Serve it with made gi"avy, and tiie 
 same sauces as for venison. 
 
 VENISON PASTY. (1) Cut a neck or 
 breast into small steaks, rub them over with 
 a seasoning of sweet herbs, giated nutmeg, 
 pepper, and salt; fry them slightly in butter; 
 line the sides and edges of a dish with puff 
 paste, lay in the steaks, and add half a pint 
 of rich gravy made with the trimmings of 
 the venison ; add a glass of Port wine, and 
 the juice of half a lemon, or tea-spoonful of 
 vinegar ; cover the dish with puflf paste, and 
 bake it nearly two hours ; some more gravy 
 may be poured into the pie before serving it. 
 
 VENISON PASTY. (2) Take a neck, 
 shoulder, or breast of venison, that has not 
 hung too long ; bone them, trim off all the 
 skin, and cut it into pieces two inches square, 
 and put them into a stewpan, widi three 
 gills of Port wine, two onions, or a few 
 eschalots sliced; some pepper, salt, three 
 blades of mace, about a dozen allspice, and 
 enough veal broth to covei- it; put it over a 
 slow fire, and let it stew till three parts done ; 
 put tlie trinunings into another saucepan, 
 cover it with water, and set it on a fire. 
 Take out the pieces you intend for the pasty, 
 and put them into a deep dish with a little 
 of their liquor, and set it by to cool; then 
 add the remainder of the liquor to tlie bono* 
 
VER 
 
 239 
 
 VIN 
 
 and trimmings, and boil it till the pasty is 
 l-eady; then cover the pasty with paste, orna- 
 ment the top, and bake it for two hours in a 
 glow oven; and before it is sent to table, 
 pour in a sauce made with the giavy the 
 venison was stewed in, strained and skimmed 
 free from fat; some pepper, salt, half a gill 
 of Port, the juice of half a lemon, and a little 
 flour and butter to thicken it. 
 
 VENISON PIE OR PASTY. All 
 kinds of meat intended for pies and pasties 
 must be hijfhly spiced when served hot, and 
 still more highly spiced when served cold ; 
 but tlie seasoning must be regulated by judg- 
 ment and taste. Take one or two breasts 
 of venison, (according to the size 3'ou wish 
 to make your pie or pasty), bone it thorough- 
 ly, beat it very flat, and lard it through and 
 through with larduns, well seasoned with all 
 sorts of spices, and sweet herbs finely chop- 
 ped ; roll it up as tight as possible, and tie 
 it up with strong twine. Put into a stewpan 
 the bones and trimmings of the venison, with 
 carrots, onions, parsley, one clove of garlic, 
 thyme, bay-leaf, pepper-corns, and allspice, 
 and let all stew till nearly dry; fill it up with 
 equal (juanlities of l)eef or mutton braise, and 
 water, which let boil very gently till done, 
 then put in the roll of venison; put paper on 
 the top, cover very close, and let it stew 
 gently with fire over and under. When 
 sufficiently done, take it off the fire, and let 
 it stand in the liquor until nearly cold ; then 
 prepare a [Jain paste of four poundsof flour to 
 one pound of butter, the same as for raised 
 pie, but instead of making it stiff, mix it as 
 «oft as possible; lay part of this paste as 
 thick as you well can round the edge <»f the 
 dish; cut off the twine from the venison, 
 skin, and lay it in the dish, and pour some 
 of the gravy it h;is stewed in ; put on the 
 cover, trim it very neatly, make a hole in 
 the top, do it over with egg, and bake it in 
 a moderate oven {ov three or four hours; 
 reduce the remainder of the liquor it was 
 stewed in, and when the pie is baked, pour 
 it in; serve it cold. The pasty can scarcely 
 be made too thick. 
 
 VERMICELLI, QUEEN'S Blanch 
 alK)ut a ([uarter of a pound of vermicelli in 
 boiling water, diain it, and throw it into 
 some rich well-seasoned stock ; when tender, 
 take it out of die soup, and put it into the 
 tureen; tliicken the soup with eight well- 
 beaten eggs, mixed with half a pint of cream, 
 and pour it, when <j!iite hot, upon the ver- 
 micelli. 
 
 VERMICELLI IN MILK. Boil the 
 quantity of milk yon may require, and put 
 into it half a pound of vermicelli peeled, and 
 a sufficient quantity of sugar ; stir it fiequent- 
 
 ly that the vermicelli may not form a paste: 
 half an hour will be long enough to boil it. 
 A little almond milk may be added when 
 ready for table. 
 
 VERMICELLI PUDDING. (1) Boil 
 
 a quarter of a pound of vermicelli with, a 
 little cinnamon, in a quart of milk; in the 
 meantinje mix a (juarter of a pound of melt- 
 ed butter with a pint of cream, and the yolks 
 of four eggs; pour in the vermicelli when 
 quite sfjft ; add a little flour and beef mar- 
 row, and powder sugar to die taste ; beat all 
 up for half an hour, tie it in a floured cloth, 
 and boil it. 
 
 VERMICELLI PUDDING. (2) Boil 
 
 four ounces of vermicelli in a pint of new 
 milk, until quite tender, with a stick or two 
 of cinnamon. Then add half a pint of thick 
 cream, a quarter of a pound of butter, a 
 quarter of a pound of sugar, and the yolks 
 of four eggs, thoroughly beaten; lay the 
 above in a dish and bake. 
 
 VERMICELLI SOUP. Take as much 
 goyd stock as you re<]uire for your tureen, 
 strain, and set it on the fire, and when it 
 boils, put in the vermicelli, and let it simmer 
 for half an hour by a slow fire, that the ver- 
 micelli may not burst; the soup ought not to 
 be very thick. Half a pound is sufficient 
 for eight or ten persons. 
 
 VINEGAR. This is an acid liquor, pre- 
 pared by a second fermentation from various 
 liquors, such as wine, cider, perry, beer, 
 mead, skimmed milk, &c. But the most 
 common method of making it, in England, 
 is from malt, and the process is as follows: — 
 infuse a quantity of malt in hot waier for an 
 hour and a half, then pour it into a cooler. 
 As soon as the infusion is sufficiently cold, 
 put it into deep tuns, add yeast to it, and 
 leave it to ferment for four or five days ; after 
 which put the liquor into banels, in a room 
 heated with stoves, so that a moderate warmth 
 m^y be kept up for six weeks, and the fer- 
 mentation continue regularly. By the end 
 of that time the whole will l)e completely 
 soured, and must now be <;hanged into other 
 barrels ; lay a tile on the bung-holes to keep 
 out the wet, but not so close as to prevent a 
 free circulation of air, and then place them 
 in tiie open air for four or five months, ac- 
 cording as the weather is warm or otherwise; 
 during the whole of this jjeriod, the fermenta- 
 tion proceeds, and at the enrl, die vinegar is 
 nearly done. The next operation is this: the 
 vinegar is poined into large vessels, called 
 rapetuns, to which there are false bottoms cov- 
 ered with rape, that is, the refuse of raisins, 
 or other fiuit, from which wine has been 
 made; fill one of these tuns entirely with 
 
VIN 
 
 240 
 
 VIN 
 
 the vinegar, and another alwut tliree- fourths 
 full, and every day take a portion of tlie 
 liqnor out of the fullest barrel, and put it into 
 the other, until the vinegar is in a fit state to 
 be drawn off; when it must be closely bar- 
 relled. 
 
 Vinegar may also be made in much smaller 
 quantities for domestic purposes ; the mate- 
 rials of various kinds, witli the addition of 
 sugar; raisins, currants, and ripe goose- 
 berries, however, are die principal; some- 
 times it is made from brown sugar, and wa- 
 ter alone. 'I'he prof>ortions are the same as 
 those necessaiy for strong wine; make the 
 barrel about three- fourths full, add a toast 
 covered vvidi yeast, put in the bung very 
 loosely, and place the barrel where it will 
 be exposed to the sun, or, if it be winter, 
 near the fire. The fern>entation should be 
 moderate and constant till the vinegar is 
 complete; then draw if off clear, give it a 
 boil, and when quite cold, strain and bottle 
 it. 
 
 Vinegar is obtained from wine, by mixing 
 widi d)e latter its own (lowers, or ferment, 
 and its tartar reduced to powder, and put 
 into a vinegar or any other cask; if the 
 latter, it must be placed in a warm situation, 
 full of the steam from vinegar; in either case 
 tlie liquor should be stirred frequently; the 
 second fermentation will s[)eedily commence; 
 it will become heated, and turn acid by de- 
 grees, and in a short time (he vinegar will 
 be produced. 
 
 It is commonly supposed that wine which 
 has become acid, will produce excellent vin- 
 egar; this, however, is a mistaken idea, for 
 the stronger and better the quality of the 
 wine, the stronger and Ijeiter will be the 
 vinegar. 
 
 The French have several meUiods of mak- 
 ing vinegar, which are subjoined. 
 
 The vinegar makers of Orlenns pour the 
 wine, of which they intend to make their 
 vinegar, into casks, at the bottoms of which 
 are close gratings of lime twigs; these serve 
 to clarify the wine, as the lees adhering to 
 the twigs, leave the liquor perfectly clear. 
 They then procure a ntimter of casks, each 
 containing a hundred gallons, either new or 
 which have previously contained vinegar; 
 these are set upright, and in the top of every 
 one is bored a hole, two inches in diameter, 
 these are kept constantly open: the last men- 
 tioned casks are called Mothers; pour into 
 all of them twenty-five gallons of boiling 
 vinegar; to this, in a week's time, add 
 three g-allons of wine, drawn from the first 
 mentioned casks; continue to add the wine, 
 at intervals of a week, until the Mothers 
 are quite full ; then leave them for a fortiiight, 
 and at the end of which period they generally 
 draw off the vinegar, taking care always to 
 leave tlie Mothers half full, at least, and 
 
 Uien to fill diem with wine as before. Tlie 
 method of proving when the vinegar is fit for 
 use, is, by plunging a stave into it; if on 
 taking it out, a white line is jierceptible on 
 the end of it, the vinegar is quite ready. 
 Tile place wlieie the casks are kept should 
 be very airy, and in the winter lime, by 
 means of stoves the temperature should be 
 raised to eighteen degrees of Reaumur. 
 
 Paris vinegar varies from tlie above, and 
 the process is veiy simple. A large quantity 
 of wine lees is put into coarse sacks, and 
 laid ill tui)s, which are placed one upon an- 
 other to form a kind of press; by means of 
 a screw, every drop of wine i^ gradually 
 squeezed from the lees; this operation cannot 
 be performed in less time than a week. The 
 wine thus extracted is put into casks; in 
 the headings a hole is made, as above, which 
 holes are left constantly open; in summer 
 time the casks so filled arc placed in die sun, 
 and, generally speaking, the vinegar is fit 
 for use in a fortnight. In the winter, the 
 fermentation will last doul>le the time, and 
 must be assisted by artificial warmth. It 
 sometimes happens Uiat the liquor heats to 
 so great a degree that the hand cannot be 
 borne in it; in this case, the progress of 
 the fermentation must be checked by adding 
 more wine, until it proceeds more regularly. 
 When the vinegar is made, put it into casks, 
 which have the beech twigs at the bottom, 
 as above mentioned; let it remain a fort- 
 night, by which time it will lie sufficiently 
 fermented to draw off into the casks for 
 keeping it. 
 
 Anodier very simple method is also prac- 
 ticed in France; a few quarts are drawn 
 fiom a barrel of excellent vinegar, and an 
 equal quantity of very clear white wine is 
 put into the barrel, close the bung lightly, 
 and keep it in a place where the heat is 
 moderate and regular. In a month's time 
 draw off the same quantity as aixjve, and 
 pour in an ecjual jwrtion of white wine. A 
 barrel of good vinegar will thus afford a 
 constant supply for a length of time without 
 leaving the slightest deixisit. 
 
 A cask whi(;h has not contained vinegar 
 before, should have a quart of bi)iling hot 
 vinegar poured into it, shaken till cold, and 
 allowed to stand for some hours. 
 
 VINEGAR, BASIL. Sweet basil is in 
 full perfection about the middle of August. 
 Fill a wide-mouthed bottle with the fresh 
 green leaves of basil (these give inurh finer 
 and more flavor than the dried,) and cover 
 them with vinegar, or wine, and let them 
 steep for ten days: if you wish a vciy strong 
 essence, strain the liquor, put it on some 
 fresh leaves, and let tliem steep four lecn days 
 more. 
 
 Obs. — This is a very agreeable addition 
 
VIN 
 
 241 
 
 VIN 
 
 to sauces, soups, and to the mixture usually 
 made for salads. 
 
 It is a secret the makers of mock turtle 
 may diank us for telling; a table-spoonful 
 put in when the soup is finished will impreg- 
 nate a tureen of soup with the basil and acid 
 flavors, at very small cost, when fresh basil 
 and lemons are extravagantly dear. 
 
 The flavor of the other sweet and savory 
 herbs, celery, &c. may be procured, and pre- 
 served in the same manner by infusing them 
 in wine or vinegar. 
 
 VINEGAR, AMERICAN. Boil six 
 gallons of water, and add, while it is hot, 
 four quarts of molasses ; put it into a tub to 
 cool; when milkwarm, stir in a pint of 
 fresh yeast; put it into the cask, and set it 
 by the fire ibr twenty-four hours ; then put 
 it in the sun, with a'bottle in the bung-hole. 
 Bottle it three months afterwards. 
 
 VINEGAR, BURNET OR CUCUM- 
 BER. This is made in precisely the same 
 manner as directed above. The flavor of 
 burnet resembles cucumber so exactly, that 
 when infused in vinegar, the nicest palate 
 would pronounce it to l)e cucumber. This 
 is a very favorite relish wiUi cold meat, sal- 
 ads, &c. 
 
 VINEGAR, CAMP. Cayenne pepper, 
 one drachm, avoirdupois weight. Soy, two 
 table-spoonfuls. Walnut ketchup, four ditto. 
 Six anchovies chopped. A small clove of 
 garlic, minced fine. Steep all for a month 
 in a pint of the best vinegar, frequently shak- 
 ing the bottle: strain through a tamis, and 
 keep ii in small bottles, corked as tightly as 
 possible. 
 
 VINEGAR, CHILI. This is commonly 
 made with the foreign bird pepper; but you 
 will obtain a much finer flavor from infusing 
 fifty fresh red English Chilies (cut in half, or 
 pounded) in a pint of the l)est vinegar for a 
 fortnight, or a quarter of an ounce of cayenne 
 pepper. Many people cannot eat fish widi- 
 out the addition of an acid and cayenne 
 pepper: to such palates this will be an 
 agreeable relish 
 
 VINEGAR, CRESS. Dry and pound 
 halftan ounce of cress-seed (such as is sown 
 in the garden with mustard,) pour upon it a 
 quart of the best vinegar, let it steep ten 
 days, shaking it up every day. This is very 
 strongly flavored with cress; and for salads 
 and cold meats, &c. it is a great favorite 
 with many. 
 
 Celery vinegar is made in the same 
 manner. 
 
 VINEGAR, ELDER FLOWER AND 
 21 
 
 TARRAGON. Fill a quart bottle withr 
 the flowers of elder, or the leaves of tarragon, 
 when it is in flower; pour vinegar upon . 
 tliem, and let them infuse for a fortnight; 
 then strain it Uirough a flannel bag, and put 
 it into small bottles. By the same means, 
 vinegar may be flavored with the fresh gath- 
 ered leaves of any sweet herb. 
 
 VINEGAR, GARLIC. Cut small one 
 ounce and a half of garlic, bruise one nutmeg 
 and three cloves, steep them in a quart of 
 vinegar for a week, shaking it daily ; then 
 strain and bottle it. Shallot vinegar is made 
 in tlie same manner. 
 
 VINEGAR, GOOSEBERRY. Gadier 
 yellow gooseberries when quite ripe, crush 
 and mash them well in a tub with a large 
 wooden pestle; to every two gallons of 
 gooseljerries, after being mashed, put two of 
 water; mix them well together; let it work 
 for three weeks, stirring the mass two or 
 three times each day; then strain the liquor 
 through a hair sieve, and put to every gallon 
 one pound of brown sugar, one pound of 
 treacle, and a table-spoonful of fresh yeast ; 
 let it work for three or four days in the same 
 tub, which has been well washed; then run 
 it into iron-hooped casks. Let it stand 
 twelve months, and bottle it for use. This 
 is a verj' strong vinegar. 
 
 VINEGAR, HONEY. Half a pound 
 of honey must be put to a pint of wa- 
 ter, and the honey well dissolved. This 
 mixture is then exposed to the greatest heat 
 of the sun, without closing wholly the bung- 
 hole of the cask, which must te merely cover- 
 ed with coarse linen, to prevent the admission 
 of insects. In alxjut six weeks, the liquor 
 becomes acid, and changes to a very strong 
 vinegar, and of excellent quality. 
 
 VINEGAR, HORSERADISH. Horse- 
 radish is in highest perfection abcut^^ovem- 
 ber. Pour a quart of best vinegar on three 
 ounces of scraped horseradish, an ounce of 
 minced eschalot, and one drachm of cay- 
 enne; let it stand a week, and you will have 
 an excellent relish for cold beef, salads, &c. 
 costing scarcely any thing. A portion of 
 black pepper and mustard, celery or cress- 
 seed, may be added to the above. 
 
 VINEGAR, RASPBERRY. The best 
 way to make this, is to pour three pints of 
 the best white wine vinegar on a pint and a 
 half of fresh-gathered red raspberries in a 
 stone jar, or china bowl (neither glazed 
 earthenware, nor any metallic vessel, must 
 be used ; ) the next day strain the liquor over 
 a like qnantity of fresh raspberries; and the 
 day following do the same. Then drain off 
 
VOL 
 
 242 
 
 WAF 
 
 the liquor without pressing, and pass it 
 through a jelly-bag (previously wetted with 
 plain vinegar) into a stone jar, with a pound 
 of pounded lump sugar to each pint. When 
 the sugar is dissolved, stir it up, cover down 
 the jar, and set it in a saucepan of water, 
 and keep boiling for an hour, taking off the 
 scum ; add to each pint a glass of brandy, 
 and l)oltle it: mixed in about eight parts of 
 water, it is a very refreshing and delightful 
 Hummer drink. An excellent cooling bever- 
 age to assuage thirst in ardent fevers, colds, 
 and inflammatory complaints, &c. and is 
 agreeable to most palates. 
 
 VINEGAR FOR SALADS. Take of 
 tarragon, savory, chives, eschalots, three 
 ounces each; a handful of the tops of mint 
 and balm, all dry and pounded ; put into a 
 wide-mouthed bottle, with a gallon of best 
 vinegar; cork it close, set it in the sun, and 
 in a fortnight strain ofl^, and squeeze die 
 herbs ; let it stand a day to gettle, and then 
 strain it through a filtering bag. 
 
 VOL-AU-VENT. (1) Cut some cold 
 turkey or veal into small thin slices, season 
 it with dried lemon-peel grated, pepper, 
 pounded mace, and salt ; add one anchovy, 
 some garlic and onion pounded, also a little 
 good gravy, a table-spoonful of lemon pickle, 
 one of white wine, and an ounce of butter 
 rolled in flour; then make it quite hot, but 
 do not ftllovv it to boil, and serve it in the 
 pi-epju-ed vol-au-vent. The gravy may be 
 made with the bones, or a little cream, and 
 the beaten yolk of an egg may be substituted 
 for the cream. 
 
 VOL-AU-VENT. (2) In opening the 
 oystei*s, separate them from the licjuor, which 
 must be strained; take oft' the beards, and 
 add to them the liquor, togetlier with some 
 white stock, a bit of butter rolled in flour, 
 two or three blades of mace, a bit of lemon- 
 peel, pepper, and salt ; simmer them for fifteen 
 or twenty minutes, and a little before putting 
 them into the vol-au-vent, pick out the lemon- 
 )X"-'I, add a table-spoonful of white wine, and 
 three of good cream, and make it quite hot. 
 To make oyster patties, when they are to be 
 hoarded, cut them into three or four bits, 
 and prepare them in the same manner. 
 
 VOL-AU-VENT. (3) Rollofl^tait paste, 
 till about the eighth of an inch thick: then, 
 with a tin cutter made for that purpose 
 (about the size of the bottom of the dish you 
 intend sending to table,) cut out the shajx;, 
 and lay it on a baking-plate with paper; 
 rub it over with yolk of egg; roll out "^ood 
 puflT paste an inch thick, stamp it with the 
 Kxtae cutter, and lay it on the tart paste; 
 then take a cutter two sizes smaller, and 
 
 press it in the centre nearly tlirough tlie puff 
 paste; rub the top with yolk of egg, and 
 bake it in a quick ovevi about twenty minutes, 
 of a light brown color: when done, take out 
 the paste inside the centre mark, preserving 
 the top, put it on a dish in a warm place, 
 and when wanted, fill it with a white frica- 
 see of chicken, rabbit, ragout of sweetbread, 
 or any other entree you wish. 
 
 VOLDRON . Melt eleven ounces of fi-esh 
 butter in a brass pan, and when quite hot, 
 add the same quantity of pounded loaf sugar, 
 and eight well-beaten eggs; stir constantly 
 for six or eight minuies, and put it into a 
 dish; the following day, mix with it a wine 
 glass of orange-flower water; of citron, 
 orange, and lemon-peel, cut fine, half a 
 pound; butter a pudding dish, and lay into 
 the bottom a sheet of white paper buttered, 
 then put in the voldron, and bake it for 
 twenty minutes; turn it out, ornament it 
 with cut citron and orange-peel, and serve 
 it in a silver or glass dish. 
 
 W. 
 
 WAFERS. Take a pint of good cream, 
 half a pound of sifted flour, half a pound of 
 powder sugar, and two drachms of orange- 
 flower water. Beat the cream with the 
 flour, a little at a time, until both are mixed 
 perfectly smooth and free from lumps, then 
 add the other articles; and as much more 
 cream as will make the paste nearly as thin 
 as milk; make the iron hot, dip a feather in 
 some melted butter, and rub the iron over 
 with it; put on the iron about a spoonful 
 and a half of the paste, press tliem a little 
 gently, and place the iron on a stove ; open 
 the iron *5i little fiequently, to see if it be 
 done; when one side is baked, turn the iron, 
 and do the other. The wafers should only 
 be lightly colored. Take them from the 
 mould carefully with a knife. 
 
 WAFERS, GERMAN. Take seven- 
 teen ounces of sifted flour, and half a pint of 
 good yeast, which make into a paste, witli 
 as much warm milk as will make it run from 
 the spoon freely, without being too clear; 
 then put it into a warm place. When it has 
 risen well, add to it the yolks of fourteen 
 eggs well Ijeaten, the whites whipped to a 
 snow, and the grated rind of two lemons. 
 The whole being well mixed, pour over it 
 seventeen ounces of fiesh butter melted, but 
 not too hot ; stir it gently wiUi a wooden 
 spoon, and put the preparation again into a 
 warm place to rise a second time; when it 
 has risen sufficiently, and your pan quite hot, 
 rub tlie latter witli butler, fill it witli the 
 
WAL 
 
 243 
 
 WAL 
 
 i't set it over a brisk fire, and fry your 
 wafers; make both sides equally brown; 
 when done, sprinkle them with powder sugar 
 (and cinnamon, if you like), and serve them 
 hot. Be careful in taking out the paste to 
 fill the pan, not to disturb, nor to plunge the 
 spoon into the preparation, when not using 
 it; the upper part of the paste should be 
 taken off very gently, and the spoon laid 
 across the top of the vessel ; if these precau- 
 tions be not attended to, the good appear- 
 ance of the wafers will be desti'oyed. 
 
 WAFERS, ITALIAN. Talce eight 
 eggs, fourteen ounces of powder sugar, a 
 pound of flour, six ounces of cream, the same 
 of milk, an ounce of orange flowers, and the 
 rind of a lemon grated. Beat the eggs with 
 the sugar and flour first ; then add the cream, 
 milk, and other materials, by degrees; mix 
 them well, and take care there are not the 
 slightest lumps. Make the wafers as di- 
 rected. 
 
 WALNUTS. Make a brine of salt and 
 water, in the proportion of a quarter of a 
 pound of salt to a quart of water ; put the 
 walnuts into this to soak for a week; or if 
 you wish to soften them so that they may 
 be soon ready for eating, run a larding 
 pin tlirough them in half a dozen places — 
 this will allow the pickle to penetrate, and 
 they will be much softer, and of better fla- 
 vor, and ready much sooner than if not per- 
 forated : put them into a stewpan with such 
 brine, and give tliem a gentle simmer ; put 
 them on a sieve to drain; then lay them on 
 a fish plate, and let them stand in tlie air till 
 they turn black — this may take a couple of 
 days; put them into glass, or unglazed stone 
 jars; fill these about three parts with the 
 walnuts, and fill them up with the following 
 pickle. 
 
 To each quart of the strongest vinegar put 
 two ounces of black pepper, one of ginger, 
 same of eschalots, same of salt, half an ounce 
 of allspice, and half a drachm of cayenne. 
 Put these into a stone jar ; cover it with a 
 bladder, wetted with pickle, tie over that 
 some leather, and set the jar on a trivet by 
 the side of the fire for three tfeys, shaking it 
 up three times a day, and then pour it while 
 hot to the walnuts, and cover them down with 
 bladder wetted with the pickle, leather, &c. 
 
 WALNUTS AND BUTTERNUTS. 
 
 Gratlier them for pickling when the head of 
 a pin will pierce them easily; run a large 
 needle through them here and there, or score 
 them on one side with a knife; lay them 
 into a brine of salt-and-water for twelve 
 days, changing the brine twice in that time; 
 strain, and put them into a jar, and sprinkle 
 a little salt over them. Boil four quarts of 
 
 vinegar for a hundred walnuts, allowing to 
 each quart one ounce of whole pepper, and 
 one of ginger, half an ounce each of sliced 
 nutmeg and whole allspice, a table-spoonfiil 
 of mustard seed, and one of scraped horse- 
 radish, one head of garlic, or a small onion; 
 pour it boiling hot over the nuts, and put a 
 plate on the jar; when cold, tie it' closely 
 down. After the nuts are used, the liquor 
 may be boiled, strained, and bottled, to use 
 as a pickle. 
 
 WALNUT KETCHUP. (1) Thorough- 
 ly well bruise one hundred and twenty young 
 walnuts; put to them three quarters of a 
 pound of salt, and a quart of good wine vin- 
 egar; stir them every day for a fortnight; 
 then strain and squeeze the liquor from thera 
 through a cloth, and set it aside; put to the 
 husks half a pint of vinegar, and let it stand 
 all night; then strain and squeeze them as 
 before, adding the liquor which is obtained 
 from tliem to what was put aside the preced- 
 ing day, and add to it one ounce and a 
 quarter of whole black pepper, forty cloves, 
 half an ounce of nutmegs bruised, or sliced, 
 half an ounce of ginger, and five drachms of 
 mace, and boil it for half an hour; tlien 
 strain it off from the spices, and bottle it for 
 use. 
 
 WALNUT KETCHUP. (2) Take six 
 half-sieves of green walnut-shells, put them 
 into a tub, mix them up well with common 
 salt, (from two to three pounds,) let them 
 stand for six days, frequently beating and 
 mashing them; by this time the shells be- 
 come soft and pulpy ; then by banking it up 
 on one side of the tub, and at the same time 
 by raising the tub on that side, the liquor 
 will drain clear off to the other ; then take 
 that liquor out: tlie mashing and banking- 
 up may be repeated as often as liquor is 
 found.- The quantity will be about six 
 quarts. When done, let it be simmered in 
 an iron boiler as long as any scum arises; 
 then bruise a quarter of a pound of ginger, a 
 quarter of a pound of allspice, two ounces of 
 long pepper, two ounces of cloves, with the 
 above ingredients; let it slowly boil for half 
 an hour ; when bottled, let an equal quantity 
 of the spice go into each bottle ; when cork- 
 ed, let the bottles be filled quite up: cork 
 them tight, seal them over, and put them 
 into a cool and dry place for one year before 
 tliey are used. 
 
 WALNUT KETCHUP, FOR FISH 
 SAUCE. Take a quart of walnut pickle, 
 add to it a quarter of a pound of anchovies 
 and three-quai'ters of a pint of red Port, arid 
 let it boil till reduced to one-third; then 
 strain it, and when Qold, put it into small 
 bottles, and keep them closely corked. 
 
WEL 
 
 244 
 
 WHI 
 
 . WALNUT PICKLE. Put any quanti- 
 ty of the outside sliells or green rinds of 
 npe walnuts into a tub in which there is a 
 tap-hole; sprinkle them with water, raise 
 the tub on one side, that it may stand in a 
 sloping direction, place another vessel under 
 it to receive llie juice as it drops from the 
 tap-hole ; this it will soon begin to do ; and, 
 when a sufficient quantity has been obtained, 
 to one gallon of this black liquor add two 
 large table-spoonfuls of salt, one large onion, 
 a stick of horseradish, a bunch of sweet 
 herbs, two bay leaves, a quarter of an ounce 
 of black pepper, the same of allspice and of 
 bruised ginger. Boil it slowly for twenty 
 minutes; strain it, and, when cold, stir it 
 and bottle it for use, putting the spice into 
 the bottles. 
 
 WALNUTS, TO PICKLE. Gather 
 the nuts before the inside shell is hard, which 
 may be known by trying them wifli a pin; 
 lay them into salt and water nine days, 
 changing the liquor every three days; then 
 take them out, and dry them in the air on a 
 sieve or mat; they should not touch each 
 other, and they should be turned, that every 
 side may become black alike; then put 
 them into a jar. When half the nuts are 
 in, put in an onion, witli about thirty cloves 
 stuck into it. and add the rest of the nuts. 
 To one hundred walnuts allow half a pint 
 of mustard seed, a quarter of an ounce of 
 mace, half an ounce of peppercorns, and 
 sixty bay leaves ; boil all the spice in some 
 good common vinegar, and pour it boiling 
 upon tlie nuts, observing that they are en- 
 tirely covered ; stop the mouth of the jar 
 widi a cloth, and when cold, cover it with 
 bladder or leather. In about six weeks 
 they will be fit for use, when they siiould \ie 
 examined, and if they have absorbed the 
 vinegar so much as to leave any of the nuts 
 dry, more should be added, but it need not 
 be boiled. 
 
 WATER SOUCHY. Make a stock 
 witli three or four flounders, boiled in three 
 quarts of water, two onions, and a bunch of 
 parsley, till they are soft enough to pulp 
 through a sieve widi the liquor they were 
 boiled in ] then season it with pep|)er, salt, 
 and some parsley chopped, and boil in it a 
 few flounders, with the brown skin taken 
 off, some nicely cleaned perch or tench. 
 Serve in a tureen, and with slices of bread 
 and butter to eat with it. 
 
 WELSH RABBIT. Pare the crust off 
 a slice of bread, toast it nicely, divide it in 
 two, butter it, and lay upon each half a thin 
 slice of cheese which has been toasted in a 
 Dutch oven ; if, when put upon the toast, it 
 ia not sufficiently browned, hold a salaman- 
 
 der, or hot shovel, over the top. Serve it 
 very hot. 
 
 WHEY. (1) Make a pint of milk boil; 
 put to it a glass or two of white wine ; put it 
 on the fire till it just boils again ; then set it on 
 one side till the curd has settled ; pour off 
 the clear whey, and sweeten it as you like. 
 
 Cider is often substituted for wine, or 
 half the quantity of vinegar that we have 
 ordered wine. When there is no fire in 
 the sick room, this may be put hot into a 
 bottle, and laid between the bed and mat- 
 tress; it will keep warm several hours. 
 
 WHEY. (2) Put a very small portion 
 of rennet into a quart of milk, and let it 
 stand by the side of the fire until turned ; 
 then serve it in a dish, with sugar and a 
 little nutmeg, grated, and strewed over, or 
 strain the liquor carefully from the curd, 
 and serve quite clear. 
 
 WHEY, WHITE WINE. Boil a 
 pint of milk, and when it rises in the pan, 
 pour in one glass of sherry and one of cur- 
 rant wine ; let it again boil up, take it off 
 the fire, and, when it has stood a few min- 
 utes, remove the curd, pour off die clear 
 whey, and sweeten it. 
 
 WHIM WHAM. Sweeten a quart of 
 cream, and mix with it a tea-cupful of white 
 wine, and the grated peel of a lemon ; whisk 
 it to a froth, which drain upon the back of a 
 sieve, and put part into a deep glass dish ; 
 cut some Naples biscuit as thin as jx)ssible, 
 and put a layer lightly over the froth, and 
 one of red cm-rant jelly, then a layer of the 
 froth, and one of the biscuit and jelly ; finish 
 with the froth, and pour the remainder of the 
 cream into the dish, and garnish with citron 
 and candied orange-peel cut into straws. 
 
 WHITE BEET, LEAVES. Pick and 
 wash tliem clean, put them on in boiling 
 water with a little salt, cover the saucepan, 
 and boil them longer than spinach ; drain off 
 the water, and beat them as spinach, with a 
 bit of butter and a little salt. 
 
 WHITINGS. In choosing whitings, be 
 careful that the skin has a silvery appear- 
 ance, that the body is firm, and the fins 
 stiff; these are sure proofs of its fresh- 
 ness. 
 
 WHITINGS, ENGLISH WAY. Put 
 into a saucepan two spoonfuls of oil, half a 
 lemon sliced (the pips and rind taken off), 
 salt, and pepper, two glasses of white wine, 
 the same of water, and let them boil nearly 
 a quarter of an hour ; then put the whitings, 
 properly cleaned, cook them in the above. 
 
WH 
 
 245 
 
 WOO 
 
 blanch a clove of garlic, and beat it with 
 tlie back of a knife, put it with parsley, 
 shallots, and two glasses of champagne, into 
 a stewpan ; let it boil five minutes, then add 
 some butter, rolled in flour, salt, and pepper; 
 stir it over the fire till smooth, then serve. 
 
 WHITINGS, FRIED. (1) Take as many 
 whitings as you may require; cleanse, scale, 
 and wipe them dry ; then run them through 
 the eyes with a skewer, soak them well in 
 milk ; flour, and fry them of a nice color. 
 Serve them on a napkin. 
 
 WHITINGS, FRIED. (2) Skin them, 
 preserve the liver, and fasten their tails to 
 their mouths; dip them in egg, then in 
 bread-crumbs, and fry them in hot lard, or 
 split them, and fry them like fillets of soles. 
 A three-quart stewpan, half full of fat, is the 
 best utensil to fry whitings. They will be 
 done enough in about five minutes; but it 
 will sometimes require a quarter of an hour, 
 to drain the fat from them and dry them (if 
 the fat you put them into was not hot enough), 
 turning them now and then with a fish- 
 slice. 
 
 WHITE FISH AND SAUCE. Make 
 a rich gravy with a bit of veal, the heads and 
 fins of four or five haddocks, three or four 
 onions, some parsley, a little cayenne, black 
 pepper and salt, the juice of a lemon, half 
 the peel, q table-spoonful of ketchup, half a 
 pint of white wine, and two quarts of water ; 
 simmer them for an hour, strain, and put to 
 it the meat of a lobster or crab minced, and 
 forcemeat balls; thicken it with half a pint 
 of cream, the yolks of three eggs beaten, and 
 a pint of butter kneaded in flour. Have 
 ready boiled ihree haddocks skinned and 
 without their heads, pour the sauce over 
 them in a deep dish. Make the forcemeat 
 balls of a small boiled haddock finely minc- 
 ed, grated bread crumbs, butter, pepper, 
 salt, grated nutmeg, and pai-sley ; bind them 
 with the whites of two eggs beaten, and fry 
 them in fresh lard of a liglu brown. 
 
 WHITE POT. Beat up the yolks of 
 eight, and the whites of four eggs, with two 
 quarts of new milk, a little rose water, a 
 nutmeg, grated, and a quarter of a pound 
 of sugar ; cut a small roll into very thin 
 slices, lay them in a dish, and pour the 
 milk, &c. over them ; put a bit of butter on 
 the top, and set it in the ovenj it will take 
 half an hour baking. 
 
 WHITE ROUX, or IVhite Thickening 
 for Sauces and Made Dishes. Melt 
 gradually, over a slow fire, a good piece of 
 butter, and dredge in a sufficiency of flour to 
 make it like a thin paste ; keep stirring it 
 21* 
 
 for a quarter of an hour, and then put it into ^ 
 a small jar to be kept for use. 
 
 WHITE SAUCE. See Bechamel. 
 
 WIDGEONS AND TEAL, Are dressed 
 exactly as the wild duck ; only that less time 
 is requisite for a widgeon, and still less for 
 a teal. 
 
 WILD DUCKS. For roasting a wild 
 duck, you must have a clear, brisk fire, and 
 a hot spit ; it must be browned upon the out- 
 side, without being sodden within. To have 
 it well frothed and full of gravy is the nicety. 
 Prepare the fire by stirring and raking it 
 just before the bird is laid down, and fifteen 
 or twenty minutes will do it in the fashion- 
 able way; but if you like it a little more 
 done, allow it a few minutes longer; if it is 
 too much, it will lose its flavor. 
 
 WINE (MADEIRA) SAUCE. Take a 
 tea-spoonful of flour, and a preserved green 
 lemon, cut into dice, mix them with a glass 
 of Madeira wine, and a little consomme, 
 add an ounce of batter, some salt and nut- 
 meg ; set tliese on a very hot stove to boil 
 for a quarter of an hour ; then take it oflf, 
 put in a quarter of a pound of butter, set it 
 agaih on the fire, stirring constantly till the 
 butter is melted. 
 
 WINTER HOTCH-POTCH. Take 
 
 the best end of a neck or loin of mutton; 
 cut it into neat chops ; cut four carrots, and 
 as many turnips into slices; put on four 
 quarts of water, with half the carrots and 
 turnips, and a whole one of each, with a 
 pound of dried green peas, which must be 
 put to soak the night l)efore; let it boil two 
 hours, then take out the whole carrot and 
 turnip; bruise and return them; put in the 
 meat, and the rest of the carrot and turnip, 
 some pepper and salt, and boil slowly three- 
 quarters of an hour; a short tinie before 
 serving, add an onion cut small and a head 
 of celery, 
 
 WOODCOCKS. (1) The greatest 
 possible care should be taken, in picking of 
 these birds, to handle them as little as pos- 
 sible, on account of the skin being so par- 
 ticularly tender, that when broken it spoils 
 the beauty of the bird. When picked, cut 
 off* the pmions at the first joint, press the 
 legs close to the side, through which, and 
 the body, pierce the Ixjak of the bird ; then 
 cross the Jeet, and lay a slice of bacon over 
 the breast. Woodcocks and snipes may be 
 dressed according to the same rules. 
 
 WOODCOCKS. (2) Take a pound 
 of lean beef, cut it into pieces, and put it 
 
woo 
 
 246 
 
 TEA 
 
 into a saiiceisan, with two quarts of water, 
 an onion stuck with cloves, two blades of 
 mace, and some whole pepper, boil all these 
 together till reduced to half; then strain it 
 off into another saucepan : draw the wood- 
 cocks, and lay the trail in a plate ; put the 
 woodcocks into the gravy, and let them boil 
 in it for twelve minutes; while they are 
 boiling, mince the trail and liver very small ; 
 put them into a small saucepan, with a lit- 
 tle mace ; add four or five spoonfuls of the 
 gravy the woodcocks are boiled in; then 
 take the crumb of a stale roll, rub it fine 
 into a dish placed before the fire, and put to 
 tlie trail, in the small saucepan, half a pint 
 of red port, a bit of butter, rolled in flour, 
 set it on the fire, and shake it round till the 
 butler is melted; tlien put in the bread- 
 crumbs, and shake tlie saucepan round ; lay 
 die woodcocks in the dish, pour the sauce 
 over them, and serve. 
 
 WOODCOCKS. (3) Woodcocks should 
 not be drawn, as the trail is by the lovers 
 of " haul gout" considered a " bonne 
 bouchej" truss their legs close to the body, 
 and run an iron skewer through each thigh, 
 close to the body, and tie them on a small 
 bird spit; put them to roast at a clear fire; 
 cut as many slices of bread as you have 
 birds, toast or fiy them a delicate brown, 
 and lay them in the diipping-|)an under the 
 birds to catch the trail ; baste them with 
 butter, and froth them with flour ; lay the 
 toast on a hot dish, and the birds on the 
 toiist ; pour some good beef gravy into tlie 
 dish, and send some up in a lx)at, twenty or 
 thirty minutes will roast them. Garnish 
 with slices of lemon. Some epicures like 
 this bird very much under-done, and direct 
 that a woodcock should be just introduced 
 to tlie cook, for her to show it the fire, and 
 then send it up to table. 
 
 WOODCOCKS IN A MINUTE. Put 
 
 a brace of woodcocks into a fryingpan, 
 with some butter, shred shallotsji grated 
 nutmeg, salt, and pepper ; set the pan on a 
 fierce fire, and fi-y the woodcocks lightly for 
 teven or eight minutes; then add the juice 
 of two lemons, half a glass of white wine, 
 and some raspings ; and leave them on the 
 fire till the sauce has boiled up once; then 
 serve altogether. 
 
 WOODCOCK SALMIS. Cut up the 
 woodcock on tlie table, and put the pieces 
 on a dish, which place on a stand, with a 
 lamp under it; add pepper, salt, shred shal- 
 lots, nearly a glass of white wine, the juice 
 of three lemons, and a bit of butter; strew 
 raspings over, and boil slowly for ten min- 
 utes, stirring occasionally. Use spirits of 
 wine for your lamp. 
 
 WOODCOCK SAUCE. Pound the 
 bones and livers of roasted woodcocks, and 
 put them into a stewpan, with two spoon- 
 fuls of cullis, and two spwonfuls of red port ; 
 reduce it to the consistence of a sauce, and 
 then strain it; when strained, add pepper, 
 salt, and tlie juice of two oranges. 
 
 Y. 
 
 YEAST. Beer yeast, which is the best 
 for bread, should be strained through a hair 
 sieve, and two or tliree quarts of cold spring 
 water poured over it; when it has stood for 
 twenty-four hours the water should be poured 
 off, the yeast will then be found at ihe bottom 
 of the vessel, quite thick. To preserve that 
 which may be left over the baking, it should 
 be put into a bottle, corked tight Iv, and kept 
 in a cool place. In cold weather it will 
 continue good for a fortnight, hut fresh yeast 
 is always preferal)le. When it does not ap- 
 pear sufticiently strong, honey or brown sugar 
 may be mixed with it, in the proportion of a 
 tea-spoonful to half a pint. 
 
 YEAST, BAKER'S. Boil two ounces 
 of hops in four qu.irts of water one hour, 
 adding more water as it decreases, carefully 
 stirring it all the time, and taking care that 
 it d(5 not boil over; strain the liquor, and 
 mix well wilh it two pounds of malt; cover 
 it, and let it stand for eight hours, or until it 
 be milk warm, then stir in half a pint of 
 good yesist; wlien mixed well together, let 
 it woik for ten hours, and then strain it 
 through a hair sieve. 
 
 YEAST, BRAN. Boil for ten minutes, 
 in two quarts of water, one pint of bran, and 
 a small handful of good hops; strain it 
 through a sieve, and- when milk warm, add 
 three or four table-spoonfuls of beer yeast, 
 and two of brown sugar or treacle: put it 
 into a wooden stoup or jug ; cover it, and 
 place it before the fire to ferment. It may 
 be bottled, tightly corked, and kept in a cool 
 place. 
 
 YEAST DUMPLINGS. Make a very 
 light dough with yeast, the same as for bread, 
 but widi milk instead of water, add salt; 
 set it by the fire, covered up in a pan, for 
 half an hour, or an hour, to rise ; in the mean 
 tin e, set on the fire a large saucepan of hot 
 water, and as soon as it boils, roll up the 
 dough into small balls, and put them into the 
 boiling water; keep them continually boiling 
 for ten minutes, then take them out, and serve 
 them inunediately, with wine sauce over 
 them. To ascei tain whether tliey are suffi- 
 
YEA 
 
 247 
 
 ZES 
 
 ciently boiled, stick a fork into one, and if it 
 comes out clean, it is done enough. Some 
 think tlie best manner of eating them is by 
 dividing them from tlie top by two forks, as 
 they liecome heavy by their own steam, and 
 eat them immediately with meat, or sugar 
 and butter, or salt. 
 
 YELLOW GLAZE. Make a glaze, 
 with a quarter of a pound of fine sugar in 
 powder, the white of an egg, to which add 
 by degrees as much lemon -juice as may be 
 necessary ; when sulBciently beaten up, (and 
 the longer it is beaten the whiter it will be), 
 add to it a small quantity of infusion of saf- 
 fron, strained, and the yellow rind of one or 
 two lemons grated on a piece of sugar, scrap- 
 ed off and pounded; take care, however, 
 not to put too much of the latter, lest the 
 glaze should be bitter. 
 
 YEAST, TO MAKE. Boil for half an 
 hour two quarts of water, thickened with 
 aljout three spoonfuls of fine flour, and 
 sweetened with nearly half a pound of brown 
 sugar; when almost cold, put it into a jug, 
 adding four spoonfuls of fresh yeast; shake 
 it well together, let it stand uncovered near 
 the fire for a day, to ferment. There will be 
 
 a thin liquor on the top, pour this off; shake 
 the remainder, and cork it up for use. To 
 make a half peck loaf you should use a quar- 
 ter of a pint of the above. 
 
 YEAST, POTATO. Boil some good 
 mealy potatoes ; peel and weigh them ; while 
 hot, bruise them finely, and mix them quickly 
 with boiling water, allowing one quart to 
 each pound; rub it through a hair sieve, 
 then add honey or brown sugar in the pro- 
 portion of one ounce to each quart of water; 
 boil it to the consistency of batter, and when 
 nearly cold, add a large table-spoonfiil of 
 good yeast to every quart of water ; cover it 
 with a cloth to rise, and the following day it 
 will be ready for use ; keep a bottle of it, 
 which may be used instead of beer yeast for 
 the next making, first pouring off the thin 
 liquid that is on the top. It must be made 
 with fresh beer yeast every two or three 
 months. Double the quantity of this, as of 
 beer yeast, is required to make bread 
 light. 
 
 ZESTS. Zest (a term of art, used by 
 confectioners) is the peel of oranges, lemons, 
 or citrons, cut from top to bottom, in 
 slips or zests, as thin as possible. 
 
RECEIPTS 
 
 FOR MAKING ALL KINDS OF 
 
 CONFECTIONERY. 
 
CONFECTIONERY 
 
 ALM 
 
 ALM 
 
 ALMONDS, BLOWN. Scald a few al- 
 monds, and pound them to about half as fine 
 as for bificuits, beat them with lemon-juice, 
 whites of eggs and powder-sugar; drop 
 them on paper, about the size of almonds, 
 and dry them in a stove or gentle oven, 
 
 ALMONDS BLOWN ROYAL. 
 
 Choose four ounces of small thick almonds, 
 and put them into an oven until they are 
 slightly colored. Whilst they are cooling, 
 mix four ounces of sugar with an egg; 
 beat them up for ten minutes ; add a little 
 carmine to make it a fine rose color; dip 
 the almonds into this: take them out; dis- 
 engage them fiom the egg, so that they may 
 be only just covered with it; lay them two 
 and two on a sheet of strong paper three- 
 quarters of an inch between each pair; 
 they may also be placed in threes to form 
 the tre-foil, on which may be added a fourths 
 Bake them in a cool oven. 
 
 ALMOND BUTTER. To a quarter 
 of a pound of blanched almonds, well beat, 
 put some new milk and rose water ; take 
 a quart of thick cream, and the yolks of 
 twelve eggs beat well with a little of the 
 cream ; then add the rest of the cream ; put 
 a quarter of a pint of new milk to the al- 
 monds, and strain them into the cream till 
 there is no strength left ; strain all togeth- 
 er into a skillet, set it over a charcoal fire, 
 and stir it till it comes to a tender curd; 
 put it into a strainer, and hang it up till the 
 whey is drained out ; then take six ounces 
 of fine sifted sugar and a little rose water, 
 and beat it all into butter with a spoon. 
 
 ALMOND BITTER CAKE. Pound 
 diree ounces (half bitter and half sweet) of 
 almonds, put them into an earthen pan with 
 six ounces of powder sugar; the same of 
 sifted flour, two whole eggs, and six yolks, 
 a spoonful of brandy and a grain or two of 
 salt ; work these up together for five min- 
 utes and then add six ounces of fresh but- 
 ter which is slightly warmed, work that in 
 for four minutes longer. Then, having 
 whipped the whites of two eggs, mix them 
 into the paste. Butter a well-tinned copper 
 
 mould or paper case, ten inches long, five 
 wide, and two high ; pour in your prepara- 
 tion, and bake it in a cool oven. While bak- 
 ing, whip the whites of two eggs, and mix 
 two ounces of powder sugar with them, and 
 cut foui' ounces of sweet almonds into slips 
 (shortwise ; ) mix them also with two ounces 
 of powder sugar and a spoonful of white of 
 egg whipped. In three-quarters of an hour 
 take out tlie cake, and if it be firm and well 
 colored, cover it with the whipped egg and 
 sugar, and on that strew the almonds equal- 
 ly, pressing them in, that all may be colored 
 alike. This operation must be performed as 
 quick as poss^.ble, and when done, turn the 
 cake out and cut it in four slips (length- 
 wise,) and then divide each into six parts 
 lozenge-shaped ; this will give you twenty- 
 four cakes, which must he arranged in stars 
 on your dish, six to e\evy star. They 
 may also be cut in two lengths instead of 
 four, and these divided into fifteen small 
 pieces, and then, with a paste-cutter, form- 
 ed into crescents. The ingredients, and the 
 proper quantities for this cake are as follows: 
 — six ounces of flour, t^ie same of powder 
 sugai', three ounces of sweet and bitter al- 
 monds, six yolks, and two whole eggs, six 
 ounces of butter, two of sugar mixed with 
 the whites of two eggs whipped, four ounces 
 of cut almonds added to the sugar and eggs, 
 a spoonful of brandy and a grain of sfilt. 
 
 ALMOND CANDY. Blanch a pound 
 of the best almonds, and cut them very 
 thin, lengthways, put them into a pound of 
 clarified sugar to crisp them, stir them over 
 the fire till boiled to souffle; then take 
 them off and keep stirring till the sugar is 
 dry like sand: then sift it, so that the al- 
 monds may be left, divide them into four 
 parts to color them differently, one part 
 red, the second yellow, the third green, and 
 the fourth left white as they come from the 
 sugar. To color the first, soak a smaU 
 quantity of carmine in clarified sugar, and 
 lay your almonds in it; do the same with a 
 little tincture of safiion for the yellow, and 
 spinach juice for the green. Place the col- 
 ored almonrls on, a sieve in a stove ; when 
 diy, mix all togedier, adding tlie white 
 
ALM 
 
 262 
 
 ALM 
 
 ones. Boil nearly as much sugar as your 
 mould will require to souffle, put it in, and 
 when tlie almonds are quite dry, garnish the 
 surface of the sugar with them; do not, 
 however, lay them too thick, and just press 
 them down with a fork ; put the mould in- 
 to a moderate oven for five houi-s, then drain 
 it well, and in anotlier two hours it may be 
 taken from the mould. 
 
 ALMONDS CINNAMON SPANISH. 
 
 Blanch your almonds, then with a bit of 
 butter tied in a piece of clotii, rub the pan 
 and brown them. Have ready some clari- 
 fied sugar, with powdered cinnamon stirred 
 in it, put in the almonds, and when well cov- 
 ered with the sugar and cinnamon, lay them 
 separately on tins, and dry in a slow oven. 
 
 ALMONDS TO COLOR. Almonds 
 ROSE COLORED. Blanch and cut sweet 
 almonds in small pieces, put them on a bak- 
 ing plate, and pour on them a little of any 
 vegetable liquid, of an infusion of cochineal, 
 or carmine; ilien rub them in your hands, 
 to mix them well with the color; when all 
 are so done, dry them in a stove or in tlie 
 oven. 
 
 ALMONDS VIOLET. Are done in the 
 same way, the coloring ingredients are 
 cochineal, and a little indigo dissolved in 
 water, put but a small quantity of the latter 
 at a time as it is \ery powerful. 
 
 ALMONDS GREEN. The same pro- 
 ceeding: the color is made with two hand- 
 fuls of fresh spinach, well washed, drained, 
 and then pounded; when very fine, press it 
 through a napkin; let the juice drop on a 
 dish, which place on a hot stove ; as soon as 
 it begins to boil, take it off, stirring it con- 
 stantly, till the green curdles, then pour it 
 tlirough a horsehair sieve, and when well 
 drained strain it through a silk sieve or tam- 
 my; the juic^ thus obtained, will give the 
 ahnonds (which must be put in a few at a 
 time) a clear and even greeu color. 
 
 ALMONDS BLUE. Dissolve a little in- 
 digo in water, strain it through a cloth and 
 use it as above mentioned. 
 
 ALMONDS ORANGE COLORED. 
 Mix a htde liquid red, and a little infusion 
 of saffron together, and proceed with the al- 
 monds as usual. 
 
 ALMONDS LEMON COLORED. 
 
 Infuse a small quantity of saffron in nearly 
 boiling water for a few minutes; straiu and 
 follow the above direction. 
 
 ALMONDS CHOCOLATE COLOR- 
 
 ED. Are dyed with chocolate dissolved in 
 water and strained. 
 
 The almonds may be cut in slips, dice, 
 &c. according to fancy. Observe that the 
 ' color of your almonds should be light and 
 delicate; when done, place them, either 
 separately or mixed together, in papei 
 cases. 
 
 ALMOND COUPEAUX. Blanch and 
 pound half a pound of sweet almonds with 
 the whites of three eggs into a very fine 
 paste, add to it six ounces of powdered su- 
 gar and the rind of a lemon grated ; when 
 thoroughly mixed together, pour over it 
 about lour spoonfuls of orange-flower water: 
 stir up the paste (which ought to be rather 
 thin,) once more, and then lay it with a 
 spoon on a plate of bright copper, in an 
 oval form, about three or four inches in 
 length. The plate being quite full, take it 
 up by both hands, and strike it steadily upon 
 a table, so that the paste may be extended, 
 but not much ; then bake them until they be- 
 come of a deep yellow. Take them from 
 the copper with a knife, and whilst hot put 
 them on a wooden roller, about the thick- 
 ness of an arm, and press them with your 
 hand, that they may acquire the form of the 
 wood, and when cool place in a box, and 
 keep them diy. These coupeaux aie very 
 brittle. 
 
 ALMONDS CRISPED. Rub a pound 
 of the best sweet almonds in a cloth to take 
 off all the dust, and then put them, with 
 a pound of sugar, half a glass of water and 
 a little carmine, into a preserving pan; put 
 them on the fire, and let them remain; when 
 ihe ahnonds crackle take them off and work 
 them about until the sugar is detached fiom 
 the almonds, then take away part of the su- 
 gar, put the almonds on the fire again, and 
 stir them lightly with a sjmtula, (be careftil 
 that the fire be not too quick ; ) and when 
 they have taken the sugar, add that which 
 had been removed, and continue to burn 
 diem till they have imbibed that also. Place 
 a sheet of paper on a sieve, throw your al- 
 monds on it, separate those which adiiere 
 together, and let them cool. 
 
 ALMOND DRAGEES. Take of the 
 best and largest almonds what quantity you 
 please, and having washed them in cold wa- 
 ter, let them drain and dry on a sieve for 
 twenty-four hours. The next day weigh 
 them, and for each pound of almonds take 
 three pounds of sugar; clarify the latter and 
 lK)il it to the degree petit lisse; then let it 
 cool a little. Have your tossing pan ready ; 
 on your right hand, a chafing dish to keep 
 your pan containing die sirup constantly 
 warm ; and on your left hand, a table with 
 
ALM 
 
 253 
 
 AL 
 
 a mixture of powder and flour (of each half 
 a pound to a pound of ahnonds). All being 
 ready, put the almonds into tlie pan, and 
 pour over them one or two large spoonfuls 
 of the sirup, and shake them so that all the 
 almonds may be wetted with sirup; then 
 take a handful or two of the flour and pow- 
 der, and strew it over the wet almonds; 
 shake them again, that the flour may adhere 
 all round the almonds. After this, swing 
 the pan backwards and forwards, by which 
 means the almonds roll about in every direc- 
 tion; continue this motion until they become 
 dry; then moisten and powder them as be- 
 fore; swing the pan again, and when dry, 
 repeat the process a third, fourth, and fifth 
 time, or more, until they are of a proper 
 size ; then pour over them the sirup for the 
 last time, without the powder, and, having 
 swung and dried them, take them out and 
 place them on sieves in a warm place, that 
 tliey may dry perfectly before you put tliem 
 by "for use. 
 
 Observe, that after a few layers of the 
 sirup, the superabundant ptirts of that and 
 the powder form a white crust at the bottom 
 of tlie pan; as soon as it acquires any de- 
 gree of tljickness, the pan must be taken 
 from the fire, the ahnonds carefully removed 
 with an iron spatula, and the crust broken 
 off; when the pan has been well washed and 
 dried, replace the almonds and proceed with 
 your work. This must l»e strictly attended 
 to, not only with this, but in making all 
 kinds of sweetmeats. The sugar thus clear- 
 ed away may be made useful for many pur- 
 
 Common Almond Dragees are made in 
 the same manner; the only difference con- 
 sists in having ingredients of an inferior 
 quality. 
 
 ALMONDS (MiLK OF) FANeHON- 
 IVETTES. Blanch and pound eight ounces 
 of sweet and one of bitter almonds, and 
 when the paste is very fine, add to it three 
 glasses of nearly boiling milk, then press 
 this mixture through a napkin to draw out 
 the milk. Put into a stewpan four yolks 
 of eg;js, three ounces of powder-sugar, one 
 of sifted flour, and a grain of salt, mix them 
 well together, and add by degrees the al- 
 mond milk, put this on a moderate fire, stir- 
 ring it constantly. Line about thirty tartlet 
 moulds with thin puft" paste, and put on them 
 a little of the above preparation, and bake 
 them in a moderate oven. When properly 
 done, take them out and let them cool. Mix 
 with the whites of three hard eggs, four 
 ounces of powder-sugar, stir it well to soften 
 the egg, and make it work easily; put some 
 of the remainder of your preparation on 
 each of the fanchonneUes, and cover them 
 lightly with tlie egg; put some white of egg 
 
 on the blade of a lai-ge knife, and with a 
 small one as quick as possible take off sev- 
 en meringues about the size of a filbert, 
 and arrange them in the form of a crown on 
 each fanchonnette; when you have done 
 five or' six, cover them with powder-sugar 
 very equally, and then bake them in a cool 
 oven. When of a reddish brown they are 
 done and may be served. 
 
 ALMOND CHEESE, BITTER. Peel, 
 
 wash, and drain, three ounces of sweet, and 
 one ounce of bitter almonds, pound them to 
 a paste, moistening with two spoonfufe of 
 water. Put them into an earthen pan, with 
 two glasses of nearly boiling milk, in which 
 eight ounces of sugar have been dissolved ; 
 let this stand an hour, then strain it through 
 a fine sieve, and put to it six diachms of 
 isinglass lukewarm j place the whole -in ice 
 and when ii begins to set, add some whipped 
 cream; pour it into a mould which has been 
 kept in ice, put it in ice again for half an 
 hour, and then take i\\e fromage from the 
 mould. 
 
 ALMOND FLUMMERY. Boil diiee 
 ounces of hartshorn in two quarts of spring 
 water ; let it simmer six or seven hours till 
 half the water is consumed ; strain it through 
 a sieve ; l)eat half a pound of almonds very 
 fine, with a quantity of orange-flower water; 
 mix a little of the jelly and some fine sugar 
 with it ; strain it with the rest of tl:e jelly, 
 stirring it till it is a little more than blood 
 warm ; pour it into basins or cups, and stick 
 in almonds cut small. 
 
 ALMOND GARLANDS. Take half 
 a pound of march-pane paste, the whites of 
 two or three eggs, some pou^ered cinnamon 
 and a little flour, knead them into a paste, 
 and roll them into the form of sausages with 
 your hand on the table, first strewing the 
 table with almonds minced, but not very fine ; 
 so that they may adhere to the sausages, 
 which ought to be about the size of yoiu" 
 finger ; then form them into rings or gar- 
 lands t)f what size you please, fixing the ends 
 together with water : place them on paper, 
 and bake them in a quick oven until they are 
 of a clear brown color. 
 
 ALMOND LITTLE CAKE, BITTER. 
 
 Pound six drachms of bitter almonds, strain 
 them through a sieve, and mix them in an 
 earthen vessel, with nearly the white of an 
 egg, and six ounces of sugar, .>tir these with 
 a silver spoon for a few minutes. Take 
 three-quarters of a poimd of pufl' paste, roll 
 it to tlie thickness of a (juai ter of an inch, 
 and cut out of it thirty ovai cakes two inches 
 and a half long by two and a (juaiter wide 
 pointed at tlie ends ; put on each a q!.iarter 
 
ALM 
 
 254 
 
 ALM 
 
 of a spoonful of the almond glaze, and with 
 the blade of a knife spread it equally over 
 the surface for about the eighth of an inch, 
 and then let them stand for half an hour 
 before you put them into the oven, which 
 miist be moderate. If you bake them imme- 
 diately after putting on tiie glaze, it wrinkles 
 and shrivels up, which spoils their appear- 
 ance, as they ought to be quite smooth and 
 even ; the cakes also require considerable 
 care in the baking; they should be slightly 
 colored on llie top and the lower part red- 
 
 ALMOND GENOESE, BITTER. 
 
 Blanch two ounces four drachms of sweet, 
 and two ounces and a half of bitter almonds, 
 poirtid them to a paste and then put them 
 into the following preparation : blanch and 
 pound^ four ounces of sweet almonds, and 
 when perfectly smooth, mix them in an earth- 
 en pan with six ounces of flour, the same of 
 powder-sugar, six yolks and two whole eggs, 
 a spoonful of brandy and a grain of salt. 
 Stir the whole for six minutes, then add six 
 ounces of butter slightly warmed but not 
 melted ; work the butter well into the paste 
 for four or five minutes. Butter two moulds, 
 or pajier cases, about nine or ten inches 
 square, pour in your preparation, smooth it 
 with the blade of a knife and then put them 
 to bake in a moderate oven, first strewing 
 on them four ounces of sweet almonds minced 
 and mixed with two ounces of powder-sugar, 
 and a little white of egg. When done, cut 
 tliem into all possible forms, then replace 
 thera in the oven to dry ; when brillle, take 
 them out, let them cool, and decorate them 
 to yeur fancy, 
 
 ALMOND, GRILLAGE. Blanch 
 half a pound of almonds, cut them into four 
 or five slips, lengthways, pralinez them 
 with three-eighths of a pound of sugar, sand 
 them when they begin to crackle ; then put 
 them on the fire again till tliey are well mixed 
 together and form a mass, yVhich put on 
 wafer-paper lightly oiled, lay it flat, strew 
 over it cinnamon, sugar, plain or white 
 nonpareils, and then cut it in pieces, 
 
 ALMOND KNOTS. Take two pounds 
 of almonds, and blanch them in hot w ater ; 
 beat them in a mortar, to a very fine paste,, 
 with rose water, be careful to keep them from 
 oiling. Take a pound of double-refined su- 
 gar, sifted through a lawn sieve, leave out 
 some to make up the knots, put the lent in 
 a pun upon the fire, till it is .scalding hot, at 
 tlie same time have the almonds scalding 
 hot in another ])Hn ; then mix tliem togelher 
 with the whites of three eggs beaten to froth, 
 and let it stand until it is coM ; dien roll it 
 wttlj some of -the sugar left out for that 
 
 purpose, and lay them in platters of paper^^ 
 They will not roll into shajje, therefore lay 
 them as well as may be, and bake tliem inr 
 a slow oven. 
 
 ALMOND MILK. Take six ounces of 
 sweet almonds, and a pint of milk, four 
 drachms of orange-flower water, and five 
 ounces of sugar. Blanch and pound the 
 almonds to a very smooth paste, moistening 
 them occasionally with a few drops of milk ; 
 when your paste crumbles, put it in the milk 
 and mix ihem well, and boil it till reduced 
 to half, dien let it boil up once more ; let 
 it cool and serve. 
 
 ALMOND MIRLITONS. Blanch an 
 ounce of sweet, and the same of bitter al- 
 monds, and dry them in an oven ; when cold, 
 pound them with a little white of egg to 
 prevent their oiling ; then put them into an 
 earthen pan with two ounces of bitter maca- 
 roons, five ounces of powder-sugar, four whole 
 eggs, and a grain of salt ; when these are 
 well mixed together, add two ounces of butter, 
 lukewarm. Make a proper quantity of puff 
 paste, roll it out thin, and cut it into thirty 
 round pieces alxjut two inches and three- 
 quarters in diameter, and put each of these 
 into a tartlet mould buttered ; put the mirli- 
 tons on this, and when all are equally full, 
 cover them with powder sugar sifted over 
 them through a tammy ; as soon as that is 
 dissolved strew more (but not such fine) pow- 
 der sugar over, and bake them in a moderate 
 oven. Serve either hot or cold. 
 
 ALMOND MONCEAUX. Take half 
 a pound of sweet almonds, cut them into thin 
 slips (lengthways) and roast them on an iron 
 until tliey are of a deep yellow color, inclin- 
 ing to brown ; beat up the whites of six or 
 eight eggs w'ith a spoon in an earthen pan. 
 Pour over the almonds a pound of sugar finely 
 powdered, Piur ounces of candied orange peel, 
 the same of candied lemon-peel, also cut into 
 thin slips, half a spoonful of powdered cinna- 
 mon, and six or eight cloves pounded ; mix 
 these ingredients ^vell in the pan, and place 
 it on paper in little heaps of a pyramidal 
 form, and bake them in a well-heated oven. 
 
 ALMOND PASTE. Blanch two pounds 
 of Bvveet almonds, and soak them in cold 
 water for twelve hours, then dry them in a 
 napkin^ and pound a (|uarter of them to a 
 very fine paste with a little water and lemon- 
 juice, |)ass tliem through a sieve, and then 
 jwiund the remainder (half a jwund at a time.) 
 When all aie done, mix them with a pound 
 of sifted sugar ; place them over a gentle fire, 
 .stirring it conlinually, until the paste v/ill 
 flow from the spoon ; then pour it into a 
 jHoriar, and when it Ix'comes lukewarm, 
 
ALM 
 
 255 
 
 ALM 
 
 pound it again with an ounce of gum-dragon 
 previously dissolved in a glass of water and 
 strained, the juice of two lemons, and a 
 pound of sifted sugar. As soon as your paste 
 is of the proper consistence, take it out and 
 lay it on the slab, sprinkled first with sugar ; 
 divide your paste into three parts, and color 
 each part according to your fancy. The 
 coloring or dyes are made of the same 
 materials as are used for almonds. 
 
 ALMOND PASTE to keep six, or 
 even twelve months. Blanch and pound 
 a pound of swajt almonds, moistened occa- 
 sionally with water, 1o prevent their oiling; 
 when well beaten, add half a pound of fine 
 powdered sugar, and mix the whole into a 
 paste to use when you have occasion. When 
 wanted, mix a piece about the size of an egg 
 with three gills of water, and strain it through 
 a napkin. 
 
 ALMOND PRALINES, (dried, pre- 
 served or burnt.) A pound of the best 
 almonds must be washed in cold water ; 
 when dioroughly dry, put them into a pre- 
 serving pan with a pound of sugar and a pint 
 and a half of water, keep them on the fire, 
 stirring them continually, until they crackle 
 and fly about, and the sugar begins to color, 
 stir them about gently to gather the sugar, 
 and leave them in the pan to dry about two 
 hours, in a stove or any moderate heat. 
 
 ALMONDS, RED CRISPED. Pre- 
 pare them as above until they have taken 
 the sugar and are ready to be taken off the 
 fire, put the almonds upon a sieve with a 
 disli under, take the sugar that drops, and 
 put it into the same pan, adding a little 
 fresh ; refine it till it comes to the twelfth 
 degree au casse, then take cochineal, color 
 sufficient to tinge the almonds, and put them 
 therein ; give them a few turns over the fire 
 in the sugar, and finish as at first. 
 
 ALMOND SWEETMEATS (YEL- 
 LOVV^) Blanch a pound of sweet almonds, 
 wash them in cold water, and when quite dry, 
 pound them with a sufficient quantity of yolks 
 of eggs, into a fine but rather stiff" paste : 
 add to them a pound of powdered sugar and 
 the rinds of two lemons grated ; knead the 
 paste well with your hands, first sprinkling 
 the table with sugar. Form tlie paste into 
 what figmes you please, such as fleur-de-lis, 
 trefoil, &:c. each being about the size and 
 weight of a macaroon. Place them on white 
 paper and on an iron plate, fry them in a mo- 
 derately hot stove. If they are of a deep 
 yellow, they are sufficiently done. — These 
 sweetmeats may be still further ornamented 
 in the following manner: — Boil some sugar 
 in orange-flower water to the degree called 
 
 grande plume, and as soon aa the sweet- 
 meats are taken from the stove or oven, wash 
 them over with a light brush dipped in the 
 sirup ; this will give them a delicious per- 
 fume, and they may then be called d la 
 glace. When cold, take them from the 
 paper and put them into glasses for the table. 
 
 ALMONDS, ROCK OF ALICAN- 
 TE, SPANISH. Clarify honey, and 
 stir into it as many blanched almonds as 
 you can entangle. Leave it to cool. This 
 makes a pretty ciystaline ornament for the 
 dessert ; it is also called Rock of Gibraltar. 
 
 ALMOND WAFERS. Take a pound 
 of s^veet almonds, blanch and pound them, 
 add a pound of powder-sugar, a pinch of 
 orange-flowers pralinee, put them into a 
 basin, and moisten them with a sufficient 
 quantity of whites of eggs to enable you to 
 spread the paste on vvaler paper with the 
 blade of a knife (the wafer paper must be 
 rubbed with virgin wax and sweet oil) ; lay 
 the preparation on as thin as possible ; chop 
 some sweet almonds veiy small, mix diem 
 with sugar, and strew them over the wafers 
 and put them into a hot oven ; wiien about 
 half baked, take them out and cut them in 
 squares ; replace them a minute in the oven, 
 take them out again, and press them on a 
 stick to give them the proper form ; as soon 
 as they are cold, put them on a sieve. Just 
 before they are served they should be slightly 
 warmed. 
 
 ALMOND COMPOTE, GREEN. 
 
 Take the peel very carefully from your al- 
 monds, and put them with water on the fire 
 till they are tender ; then take them off" and 
 add a little more water ; when nearly cold 
 put them on the fire again, but do not let 
 them boil ; as soon as you find the head of 
 a pin will penetrate easily, they are then 
 sufficiently done, and may be thrown into 
 cold water; and when the fruit is quite cold, 
 drain them. In the meantime put some 
 clarified sugar on the fire, and when it boils 
 put in the almonds ; boil them in the sugar 
 about twenty times, then remove them, and 
 let the almonds stand to take the sugar : in 
 about two hours' time put them on the fire 
 again, and boil them up a dozen times ; after 
 which, take them off", skim, and let them 
 cool. When quite cool drain and put the 
 fruit in a compotier. If the sugar should 
 not be sufficiently done, boil as much more 
 as you may think necessary ; squeeze in the 
 juice of an orange, boil it once again, and 
 when nearly cold strain it through a cloth 
 into the compotier over the almonds. 
 
 ALMOND NONPAREILS, GREEN. 
 
 Drain some green almonds that have been 
 
ANG 
 
 256 
 
 ANG 
 
 preserved in brandy ; dip them one by one 
 in sugar prepared au cassi, and roll them 
 in white, or any other colored nonpareils, 
 and dry them in a stove, or gentle oven. 
 
 ALMOND (GREEN) PRESERVED. 
 
 Put some water into a saucepan, with tv\'o 
 handfuls of bran, and when it has boiled up 
 twice, throw in some green almonds ; let 
 them boil up once, then take them out with 
 a skimmer, and rub them well in your hands 
 to take off the down ; as you do this, tlirow 
 them into cold water ; then boil them in 
 water till, on pricking them, a pin easily 
 enters and they shrink : then clarify some 
 sugar, a pound to a pound of fruit ; boil up 
 the sirup four or five successive days, morn- 
 ing and evening, without the fruit, which 
 you leave to drain upon a sieve ; lastly, put 
 the fruit into a pan, and when rather more 
 than lukewarm, pour the sirup over it ; when 
 they look very green they are sufficiently 
 done. 
 
 ANDAYE BRANDY. An ounce of 
 bruised aniseed, an ounce of bruised corian- 
 der seed, two ounces of powdered Florence 
 iris, the zesles of two oranges ; put them 
 with three quarts of distilled brandy into the 
 alembic bain-marie ; dissolve two ponnrls 
 and a half of sugar in two pints and a half 
 of clear river water, add them to the distilled 
 liqueur, pass the whole through a strainer, 
 and put into bottles. 
 
 ANGELICA CAKES. Take Uxr oun- 
 ces of angelica powder, and two pounds of 
 fine sugar. Beat up the white of an egg 
 with a little sifted sugar, until it is of the con- 
 sistence of cream cheese ; dissolve the sugar 
 in a skillet and skim it ; when it has boiled 
 a little, throw in the angelica, and boil the 
 sugar to petit casse, then take it from the 
 fire, put in half a spoonful of the lieaten egg, 
 and stir it quickly until the sugar rises, then 
 stop, and when it has fallen again, stir till 
 it rises a second time ; it may now be pour- 
 ed into moulds or paper cases, well oiled and 
 sprinkled with sifted sugar. 
 
 ANGELICA (ESSENCE of) JELLY. 
 Having washed and well dried two ounces of 
 angelica-roots ; cut them in pieces and throw 
 them into boiling sirup, (three-quarters of a 
 pound of sugar,) with an ounce of bruised 
 angelica seeds ; cover the mixture close, and 
 when cold, add to it half a glass of kirsch- 
 wasser, and pass it through a tammy ; then 
 filter, and afterwards put to it an ounce of 
 isinglass : stir it lightly with a silver spoon ; 
 pound ten pounds of ice, and put it into a 
 large sieve or pan, place your mould in the 
 middle of the ice, taking care that it touches 
 the ice in every part ; pour the jelly into tlie 
 
 mould, cover it with a saucepan lid, put ice 
 on tliai, and let it stand for three hours ; after 
 that time have ready a saucepan large enough 
 to take in the mould easily ; fill it with water 
 so warm that you can scarcely bear your hand 
 in it ; plunge the mould in so as to allow the 
 water to p:iss over the whole, but as quickly 
 as possible, and then turn the jelly into your 
 dish for table. This last operation should 
 be performed with great agility. Observe, 
 in making these kind of jellies, that no tinned 
 or pewter vessels or spoons should be used, 
 as they impart a violet tinge to your jellies, 
 which ought to be of the color of the ingre- 
 dients employed, as for instance the above 
 should be a clear light green color. 
 
 ANGELICA LIQUEUR. Wash, 
 scrape, and cut in small pieces, twelve ounces 
 of fresh, or half the quantity of Bohemian 
 angelica roots, and infuse them for a week 
 in six pints of brandy and one of water, vvitli 
 a drachm of mace, two drachms of cinnamon, 
 and twelve cloves ; at the end of that lime 
 distil it, then dissolve three pounds of sugar 
 in three pints of water ; mix it with the 
 liqueur, strain it through a jelly-bag, or fil- 
 ter it through paper. Observe, that the best 
 brandy for liqueurs is that which is ruade 
 at Montpelier, as it yields more in distilla- 
 tion than the Cogniac. Take notice also 
 that the first drops which fall from the alem- 
 bic after it is placed on the stove, must not 
 be mixed with the liqueur. A glass should, 
 therefore, be placed under the mouth of the 
 alembic to receive diem, and when about a 
 quarter of it is filled you may remove it, and 
 place your bottles or matrass. The phlegm, 
 as these droppings are called, are good for 
 nothing. 
 
 ANGELICA PASTE. Take young and 
 pithy angelica stalks, boil them till tender, 
 drain and press all tlie water out ; beat them 
 in a mortar to a paste, and rub it through a 
 sieve. Next day dry it over the fire, and to 
 every pound of paste put a pound of powder- 
 sugar. When the paste is hot add the sugar, 
 stirring it till thoroughly mixed, over a gentle 
 fire. Drop it on plates, dust a little sugar 
 over them, and dry them in a stove. 
 
 ANGELICA PRESERVED. Take the 
 stalks of angelica when of a good size, but 
 Ixjfore they have run to seed ; clear off the 
 leaves, and as you cut Uie stalks into proper 
 lengths throw them into water, and lx>il them 
 till the stalks are soft; take them from the 
 fire, and put them into cold water ; take off 
 the skin, and again put them into cold water ; 
 then drain and put them into an earthen pan, 
 and pour over a sufficient quantity of clarified 
 sugar to float the angelica. In twenty-four 
 hours boil the sugar ten or a dozen times. 
 
ANI 
 
 257 
 
 ANI 
 
 and when lukewarm pour it over the stalks. 
 Proceed in the same way for four succeeding 
 idays ; after which, drain the stalks, and in 
 the meanwhile boil the sugar (adding more, 
 if necessary) to the degiee grande perle ; 
 put the angelica to this, cover it close, and 
 let it boil five or six times. Take it from 
 tlie fii-e, scum, and put it by in pots. 
 
 ANGELICA PRESERVED DRY. 
 
 Proceed as for the liquid, until you have 
 poured the sugar au grand perle over the 
 angelica ; leave it for a day in die sugar, 
 then drain and dry it on slates, or iron plates, 
 in a stove. 
 
 ANGELICA RATAFIA. Take six 
 pints of brandy, a [)int of river watei', tlnee 
 pounds of sugai', two ounces of fresh gathered 
 angelica-roots, the same (juantity of angelica 
 eeed ; mace and clove, a drachm of each. 
 Wash and dry the roots well, cut them in 
 slices, and put them, widi the seeds and 
 spices bruised, into (he brandy, to infuse for 
 twenty days ; Uien strain it, and having ad- 
 ded to it the sugar dissolved in river water, 
 filler and bottle your ratafia. 
 
 ANGEUCA RATAFIA. Strip die an- 
 selica stalks of their leaves, and cut them 
 into small pieces, which put into the l^est 
 brandy and water, in the projmrtion of f(«ir 
 lities of brandy and two of water to one 
 pound of angelica, and four pounds of sugar 
 to die same quantity ; add cloves and cinna- 
 mon ; let it stand six weeks, tlien filter and 
 bottle it. 
 
 ANGELICA WATER. Wash eight 
 handfuls of angelica leaves, cut, and lay them 
 on a table to dry. When (jiiite dry, put 
 them ill an earthen pot witli a gallun of strong 
 wine lees. Let it stand twenty-four hours, 
 Btir it twice in that time, then put it into a 
 warm still or alembic ; draw off into bottles, 
 covered widi paper pricked in holes, and let 
 them stand thus two or three days. Sweeten 
 it, and when it is settled, bottle, and stop it 
 close. 
 
 ANISEED, OIL OF. Is made like ani- 
 seed water, the only difference is, that an 
 additional pound of sugar is necessary to 
 make the sirup. 
 
 ANISE PETIT PAINS. Put two 
 glasses of water and two ounces of fresh but- 
 ter into a stewpan, and when the li(]uid boils 
 take it from the fire, and mix with it six 
 ounces of sifted flour; amalgamate it thor- 
 oughly, so diat It may be quite free from 
 lumps ; dien di-y it over die fire. Take it 
 out of the saucepan, and add to it two eggs, 
 and two ounces of powder-sugar ; mix them 
 '22* 
 
 well in, and then put in two more eggs and 
 the zeste of a lemon minced fine : when 
 these are also well incorporated, add another 
 egg or two, if the paste (which should be ra- 
 ther firm,) will bear them. Sprinkle ^our 
 paste slab with flour, cut the paste into 
 pieces, each the size of a walnut; roll these 
 with as little flour as possible, to about three 
 inches long, and as you roll diem place diem 
 on a baking-tin, two inches apart; dorez 
 and bake tliem in a tolerably warm oven till 
 they are firm. Then' cut some anise into 
 fillets, boil a quarter of a pound of sugar to 
 casse, and tiie moment it reaches that de^ 
 gree set it by the side of the fire that the 
 sugar may not lose its wliiteness; dip the 
 top and one side of each petit pain in the 
 sugar as quick as possible, and as you take 
 diem out, strew die anise over them lightly. 
 Red anise is also used for diese petit 
 pains. 
 
 ANISEED RATAFIA. To make a 
 quart of this li(|ueur, boil a pound of sugar 
 with a demisetier of water, until the sugar 
 is (juite clear; then heat anodier demisetier 
 of water, and put in it diree ounces of anise ; 
 take it from die fire before it boils; let it 
 stand a (juarter of an hour, and then pour it 
 widi three pints of brandy into the sugar; 
 mix all well together, and then pour into a 
 vessel, which must be closed tight, and 
 placed in die sun. Let'it stand three weeks, 
 and dten bottle it. 
 
 ANISEED WATER. Choose eight 
 oimces of new green anise, sift it well to 
 free it from the dust, and then infuse in six 
 pints of brandy, with the zestes of three 
 lemons, and half an ounce of cinnamon ; in 
 a week's time distil it over a moderate fire, 
 put a pint of wafer into the alembic; take 
 care to collect the phlegm before you draw 
 off the aniseed water. Dissolve three pounds 
 of sugar in three pints of water. As the 
 anise contains an acid salt, which renders 
 this liqueur milky, the following proceeding 
 is necessary: — Reserve a pint of the water 
 fiom that in which you dissolved the sugar, 
 and mix with the white of three or four 
 eggs, well whipped, and while the sirup is 
 hot put to it this egg-water and the aniseed 
 water; stir it over die fire until the whole 
 is hot without boiling; then put it into a 
 glass jar, cork it well, and let it stand;, dip 
 next day bottle and filter it. 
 
 ANISETTE DE BORDEAUX. Take 
 two ounces of green aniseed,, half a pound 
 of aniseed, two ounces of coriander, and the 
 same of fennel seeds. Bruise, and put thera, 
 with sixteen pints of brandy„ into an alenv- 
 bic bain-marie. Then dissolve thirteen 
 pounds of sugar in two (juarts of river water. 
 
APP 
 
 256 
 
 APR 
 
 which must be put to your liqueur when dis- 
 tilled. Filter and bottle it. 
 
 APPLE FRITTERS. Turn twelve 
 small apples, cut fliem into halvei!, and boil 
 them in sirup, tl)cn leave tiicm to cool. 
 When they are cold, make an extremely 
 thin crust with brioche paste. Make a 
 fritter for each half apple, then fry them and 
 finish the same as Fritters d la Dauphine. 
 
 Pears cut into quarters are made in the 
 same manner as the above. 
 
 APPLETS AND ALMONDS Little 
 Cakes. Proceed the same as above till 
 the marmalade is spread ovei- the under- 
 crust, then cover it with almonds cut in fil- 
 lets, press them in lightly; mask them with 
 powder-sugar and bake in a m')derale oven. 
 As soon as* cold, cut your gateaux accord- 
 ing to your fmcy, cilher round, oblong, lo- 
 zenge, or crescent-shaped. 
 
 APPLE MARMALADE, Little 
 Cakes. Mtd\e a marmalade of twenty-four 
 apples in the usual way, with a (|uarter of a 
 pound of sugar, and a quarter of a pot of 
 apricots, and I lie zeste of a lemon, shred 
 fine. Make your paslej and proceed as di- 
 rected for Pfctits Gateaux gluces of api'icots. 
 Sprinkle them (when marked) widi povvder- 
 eugar. Bake them in a moderate oven and 
 finish tliom. 
 
 APPLE PETIT GATEAUX WITH 
 
 Pistachios. Make an under-crust of the 
 Bamc size and thickness as directed (or petits 
 g&teoiiX glaces of apiicots, and cover it 
 with apple marmalade; when baked, mash 
 the apples with a little apricot marmalade, 
 and strew over a qtiarter of a pound of pis- 
 tachio nuts cut in small pieces, and then put 
 it in the oven again fjr a few minutes to dry 
 tlie apricots. When cold cut them into the 
 usual fjrms, 
 
 APPLES AND PISTACHIOS. Pre- 
 pare and toss up a dozen apples for this 
 gateau witii apples and raisins, with the ad- 
 dition of two ounces of sugai', and instead 
 of the zeste of an orange, grate that of a 
 lemon, and put three ounces of pistachio nuts 
 blanched, in the place of the raisins. Pro- 
 ceed in the same manner as directed in that 
 recipe, strewing on the dome of the gdteau 
 pistachio and sugar, each nut cut into six 
 pieces; and when the crown is put round 
 the band, place a pistachio nut in the mid- 
 dle of each meringue, bake it of a light 
 color in a slow oven, and serve it hot. 
 
 APPLE MERINGUEES. Put some 
 apple marmalade on a dish, in a pyramid: 
 
 whip the whites of two eggs to a froth, miyt 
 with them two s|X>onful3 of powder-sugar 
 and a little lemon-peel chopped extremely 
 small ; decorate your apples with this prep- 
 aratiim, glaze them with sugar, and color 
 tiiem in the oven. 
 
 APPLE MERINGUE. Lay a timbale 
 paste in a tart pan, egg and prick it all over, 
 and bake it; lay in it a puree of ap|)les, and 
 finish with white of egg, as for a la Turque; 
 serve it hot. 
 
 APPLES PUREE. Peel and core a 
 dozen or more good baking apples ; set them 
 over the fire to stew with some clarified 
 sugar and a small bit of lemon-peel; when 
 soft, stir tliem well vvitli a wooden spoon, 
 and put in a spoonful of apricot jam; stir it 
 at times till the jam is mixed and the apples 
 diicken, then rub the whole through a 
 tammy. 
 
 APPLES, SOUFFLE PARISIEN. 
 
 Make a marmalade of three dozen apples, 
 half a pound of powder-sugar, the peel of a 
 lemon, and a glass of water; dry it as much 
 as you possibly can, f )r on that the good ap- 
 pearance of the souffle parisien chiefly 
 depends; then put it into a large stewpan. 
 Whip the whites of fiileeu eggs to a strong 
 fiolh, with a pound of powder-sugar. Mix 
 a quarter of this at first, with the apple mar- 
 malade, then stir the whole together, and 
 pour it into a croustade prepared as usual. 
 (See Souri'LE.) Bake it for an hour in a 
 nwderate oven. Serve it as soon as possi- 
 ble after taking it from die oven. Glaze it 
 with powder-sugar. 
 
 APPLE SIRUP. Take six apples, 
 pare and cut them into snrall pieces; put 
 them into a matrass with thn^-quarters of 
 a pound of sugar and two glasses of water; 
 stop it cl(jse and place it in a bain marie, 
 and leave it a!j(jut two Ixnirs, letting the 
 water be boiling; move the matrass fre- 
 quently without taking it out of the water; 
 this must Ije done carefully lest it should 
 break on lx?ing exposed to the cold air; 
 when done put out the fire, and let tlie mat- 
 rass cool Ijefore you take it out. When tlie 
 sirup is nearly cold, flavor it with lemon- 
 juice, and add a spoonful of spirits of lemon 
 or cinnamon, orange-flower water, or wbat- 
 evei- else you may choose. If any dregs 
 should arise, let it stand for some hours 
 longer, and then gently pour the sirup into 
 bottles. Great care must be taken to pre- 
 vent its being muddy. 
 
 APRICOTS BOTTLED. Press the 
 quantity of ripe apricots you may require 
 
APR 
 
 ^50 
 
 APR 
 
 through a horse-hair sieve; put the pulp into 
 bottles, cork theij) very close, and tie them 
 over; phice tliese bottles uprigiit in si large 
 Kaucepan, witij hay l)etvveeii to prevent their 
 tonchino ; put the saucepan on the fire, and 
 fill it witii water. When ihe water is near 
 boiling, take it off and let it stand till the 
 Ijottles are cold ; then put them in a cellar, 
 without touching each other, until wanted, 
 when they will be found as good to use as 
 frej^h fruit. The apricots may also ber pre- 
 served whole by th<? same means. 
 
 APRICOTS IN BRANDY. Choose 
 your apricots when (jiiite ripe, let them l)e 
 fiee from spots, rub them carefully with a 
 linen chith, to take off the down. Weigh 
 your fruit, and to each pound put a (|narter 
 of a pound of sugar. Clarify il, and boil it 
 to the degree grand perle, then put in the 
 apricots: boil them three or four times, tak- 
 ing care to tarn them frequently, that they 
 luay take the sugar in nil parts. Take them 
 off the fire, and put them one by one into 
 glass botdt's; the sirup being by this time I 
 nearly col I, pour the brandy (three demise- 
 tiers to eacii pound) into it by degrees, stir- 
 ring constantly to mix it well with the sirup. 
 When thoroughly incorporated, pour it into 
 the bottles, the fruit at first will float; but 
 \\hen the brandy and sugar have soaked in 
 they will sink to the bottom; tliey are then 
 fit to eat. 
 
 APRICOT COMPOTE, GREEN. 
 
 Green apricots are done exactly tlie same as 
 green almonds. See Almonds. 
 
 APRlCOT COMPOTE. Peel, cut, 
 and take the stones from your fruit, and put 
 them on th.e fire in a little water, and when 
 they rise they are sufficiently done, and may 
 be taken out, cooled, and drained. Then 
 put them into a little clarified sugar and give 
 them three or four boilings; skim them well, 
 and iluMi put yom- fruit aside; boil the sugar 
 alone f )ur or five times more, and pour it 
 over the apricots. When cold place them 
 in the compotier. 
 
 APRICOT CONSERVE. Take half- 
 ripe ajiiicots, peel and cut them into thin 
 slices, dry them over a gentle fire; to four 
 ounces of fruit put one pound of sugar, boil- 
 ed to tl/e degree la plume forte; when the 
 sugar is nearly cold put in ihe fruit, taking 
 rare to t. *' it well with a spoon, that they 
 may be w^ll incorporated. 
 
 APRICOTS PARISIEN. Take five 
 dozen very fine apricots, cut them in half, 
 and put them, a few at a time, over the fire, 
 with half a pound of sugar and fair glasses 
 of water; as soon as you find the peel will 
 
 come ofT easily, take them out and drain 
 them, and put fi-esh apricots into the sirup, 
 and proceed the same until all are pealed, 
 then reduce the sirup to the usual consis- 
 tence. Put a pound of rice, half a pound 
 of butter, the same of sugar, on which grat& 
 the zestes of four lemons, a little salt, eight 
 or nine glasses of milk, and three-quarters 
 ,of a pound of raisins, into a saucepan, and 
 when it boils take it from the fire and put it 
 on hot cinders, stirring it occasionally for 
 an hour, when, if the rice be quite soft, mix 
 the yolks of ten eggs with it- 
 
 APRICOTS IN JELLY. Pare and 
 stone \'our apricot*!, scald them a little, lay 
 them in a pan, and cover them with clari- 
 fied sugar; next day drain the sirup, and 
 boil it smooth, then add the apricots and 
 boil together; the following day make a 
 jelly with codlings, boiling some apricots 
 among them, to give a better flavor. When 
 the jelly is done put in the other fruit with 
 the sirup, and lx>il altogether, skim it well 
 and put it in glasses. 
 
 APRICOT MARMALADE. Peel the 
 apricots, and take out the stones ; to each 
 pound of fruit put diree-quarters of a pound 
 of clarified sugar, boil it tovthe degree gro9 
 boulet, then put in tlie apricots, boil both to- 
 gether: when it flows readily it may be put 
 into pots. 
 
 APRICOT RATAFIA. Peel and cut 
 into pieces as many ripe apricots as you 
 may require, and boil them in white wine 
 (about a pint to four dozen;) strain and 
 mix it with an equal quantity of brandy; 
 put the whole into a jar, with the kernels 
 bruised, add a quarter of a pound of sugar 
 to each pint. Let it infuse for three weeks, 
 then filter and bottle it. 
 
 APRICOT SWEETMEAT, whole 
 AND DRY. Choose fine firm apricots , make 
 a little opening at the top to take out the 
 stone, put them into cold water, then blanch 
 them over the fire; when they begin to boil, 
 take out those which are soft, throw them 
 into cold water, and drain them. In the 
 meantime, prepare some clarified sugar to 
 petit lisse. When it boils put in the apri- 
 cots, and boil up a few times together. The 
 next day separate the sugar fiom the fiuit, 
 boil d la nappe, and then pour it over the 
 apricots again ; the following day Iwil the su- 
 gar ^Jefii jaer/e, then add the fruit, and boil 
 together; the fourth day drain tliem ; and, 
 having placed them on iron [)lates, sprinkle 
 them with sugar before you put tliem into 
 the stove to dry ; when dry, place in boxes 
 in layers, [-Jacing a sheet of pajier between 
 each layer. 
 
BAR 
 
 260 
 
 BAR 
 
 B. 
 
 BADIANE, INDIAN. Take a pound 
 of starred anise, pound and infuse it in six 
 quarts of good brandy for a week, when 
 add to it a pint and a half of water, and 
 distil it. Dissolve seven pounds and a 
 half of sugar in seven pints of water, and 
 add it to the distilled liqueur. Stir it well, 
 strain and bottle it. This is also called 
 Badiane Cream. Some persons color it 
 with a little cochineal, it is then called Oil 
 of Badiane. 
 
 BALM WINE. Boil twenty pounds of 
 lump sugar in four gallons and a half of 
 water gently for an hour, and put it in a 
 tub to cool. Bruise two pounds of the 
 tops of green balm, and put them into a 
 barrel with a little new yeast, and when 
 the sirup is nearly cold pour it on the 
 balm. Stir it well together, and lei it 
 stand f vventy-four hours, stirring frequently ; 
 bring it up, and wlien it has stood for six 
 weeks, bottle it. Put a lump of sugar into 
 each bottle ; cork it tight. The longer it 
 is kept the better it will be. 
 
 BALSAM, SIRUP OF. Put an ounce 
 of balsam of tolu into a quart of spring wa- 
 ter, and boil them two hours; add a pound 
 of white pounded sugar-candy, and boil it 
 half an hour longer. Take out the bal- 
 sam, and strain the sirup twice; when cold, 
 bottle it. 
 
 BARBADOES CREAM. Take the 
 zests of three fine cedrats, two drachms of 
 cinnamon, and two of mace, and put them 
 into three quarts of brandy ; close the ves- 
 sel hermetically, and let it infuse for a 
 week, then distil it in an alembic. Dis- 
 solve over the fire three pounds of sugar in 
 a quart of pure river water, add to it half a 
 pound of orange-flower water, work the 
 mixture, and filter it through a straining 
 bag into bottles for use. 
 
 BARBADOES WATER. Take the 
 outer rind of eight large florenline citrons, 
 half an ounce of bruised cinnamon, and a 
 gallon of rectified spirit; distil in the bain 
 marie; dissolve two pounds of sugar in a 
 quart of water ; mix it with the distilled 
 liquor ; filter and bottle it for use. 
 
 BARBADOES WATER AMBER- 
 COLORED. Infuse the yellow rind of 
 six bergamots, half an ounce of cinnamon, 
 and two draclims of doves bruised, for six 
 
 days in a gallon of rectified spirit; then 
 add a drachm of saffron, and let the whole 
 stand six days longer. Dissolve two pounds 
 of sugar in a quart of water, add it to the 
 infusion, and filter for use. 
 
 BARBERRY BISCUITS. Press the 
 juice through a sieve from two pounds of 
 barberries, and mix with it five pounds of 
 sifted sugar ; whisk the whites of four eggs 
 and add them to the fruit ; prepare some 
 square paper cases, fill them with the jam, 
 make them quite smooth, lay them on 
 sieves, and put them into a stove, and let 
 them remain six or eight days. When 
 peifectly dry, take away the papers : keep 
 them in a dry place. 
 
 BARBERRIES, TO CANDY. Take 
 the barberries out of the preserve, and 
 wash off the sirup in warm water ; then 
 sift over them some fine sugar, and set 
 them in an oven, often moving them, and 
 strewing sugar upon them until they are dry. 
 
 BARBERRY DROPS. Cut off the 
 
 black tops, and roast the fruit before the 
 fire till soft enough to pulp with a silver 
 spoon through a sieve into a china basin, 
 then set the basin in a saucepan of water 
 the size of the top of the basin, and stir 
 the barberries till they become thick. 
 When cold, put to every pint, a pound and 
 a half of the best sugar pounded as fine as 
 possible. Beat the fruit and sugar together 
 for two hours and a half (or more for a 
 large quantity), then drop it on sheets of 
 white thick paper. If, when you drop, it 
 runs, there is not sugar enough, and it will 
 look rough if you put too much. 
 
 BARBERRY ICE. Put some barber- 
 ries into a pan without water, set it over 
 a gentle fire, stirring them constantly; 
 when warm, pass them through a sieve, 
 into a pan, add to the liquor clarified sugar j 
 if too thick, put a little water, but no lem- 
 on-juice, as the barberries are sufficiently 
 acid without; then put it into the sabotiere 
 to congeal. 
 
 BARBERRY ICE CREAM. Put a 
 
 large spoonful of barberry jam into a pint 
 of cream ; add the juice of a lemon and a 
 little cochineal ; stir it well, and finish as 
 directed, see Ice. 
 
 BARBERRY ICE WATER. Mix one 
 
 spoonful of barberi-y jam with the juice of 
 a lemon, a pint of water, and a little coch- 
 ineal; pass it through a sieve and freeze it; 
 take care that it is thick and smooth be- 
 fore you put in moulds. 
 
BAR 
 
 261 
 
 BER 
 
 BARBERRY MARCHPANE. Take 
 three pounds of sweet almonds, two pounds 
 and a half of sugar, and a pound of bar- 
 berries ; pound the ahnonds to a paste, mix 
 them with the sugar boiled to petit boule, 
 and then add tlie juice of the barberries 
 strained; stir them together well, and place 
 them on hot ashes, stirring them continual- 
 ly until tlie paste is formed ; then put it on 
 a table sprinkled witli sugar and let it cool; 
 spread it out about the thickness of a crown 
 piece, cut it into various forms, place them 
 on sheets of paper, and bake them in a 
 moderate oven and glaze them. You may 
 use any other fruit you think proper. 
 
 BARBERRY PASTILE. Dissolve 
 
 half an ounce of gum-dragon in a glass of 
 water, strain it in a cloth or bag, and put 
 it into a mortar, with a spoonful of bar- 
 berry marmalade; mix it well, and add as 
 much powder-sugar as will make it into a 
 malleable paste ; you may also put in a lit- 
 tle cochineal dissolved ; form .it into what 
 shapes you please > 
 
 BARBERRIES PRESERVED IN 
 
 Bunches, Choose those barberries which 
 have the largest seeds, which may be ex- 
 tracted carefully with the nib of a pen. 
 Weigh your fruit, and mix it with an 
 equal weight of sugar boiled to petit boule; 
 boil them together two or three times, and 
 skim it. Set it aside in an earthen vessel 
 until the next day, when it may be put in 
 pots and covered. 
 
 BARBERRY WAFERS. Press oyt 
 the juice from as many barberries as you 
 may require, and mix it with powder-su- 
 gar, anfl the white of one egg, and stir it 
 up with a wooden or silver spoon, to a 
 fine jjaste. Lay a sheet of wafer paper on 
 a baking plate, and spread your paste over 
 it very thin with a knife; cut it into twelve 
 pieces, and put them round a stick (the 
 paste upwards) in a hot stove to curl ; when 
 half curled, take them off carefully, and set 
 them up endways in a sieve ; let them stand 
 for a whole day in a hot stove. 
 
 BARBERRY WATER. Put two large 
 spoonfuls of barberry jam, the juice of two 
 lemons and a gill of sirup in a basin, and 
 dilute it with water; add a little cochineal, 
 {ind if not rich enough, more sirup; strain 
 it through a fine sieve. 
 
 BARLEY SUGAR. Clarify two pounds 
 of sugar, and boil it to caramel height, in 
 ji deep copper ve.-jsel with a lip ; pour it in 
 straight lines about an inch thick, on a 
 maible slab previously rubbed with butter. 
 Whilst hot, take each end of the strips of 
 
 sugar and twist it; when cold cut it into 
 proper lengths and put them by in glasses. 
 They must be kept in a dry place. 
 
 BARLEY SUGAR DROPS. Proceed 
 as for barley sugar. Have ready a large 
 sheet of white paper, covered with a smooth 
 layer of sifted sugar. Pour out the boiled 
 sugar in drops the size of a shilling; when 
 cold, fold them separately in paper, a few 
 drops of the essence of ginger or lemon will 
 improve the flavor. 
 
 BARLEY SIRUP. Make of a pound of 
 barley three quarts of barley water ; strain 
 out the barley, and put to the water a hand- 
 ful of scabious, tormentil, hyssop, agrimony, 
 horehound, maiden hair, sanicle, betons, 
 burage, buglose, rosemary, marigolds, sage, 
 violets and cowslips, of each a pint, when 
 picked; a pound of raisins stoned, half 
 a pound of figs cut, a quarter of a pound of 
 dates stoned; half a pound of green licjuor- 
 ice, caraway, fennel and aniseed, of each 
 one ounce, hartshorn, ivy, elecam{)ane 
 roots, of each an ounce; the roots of fen- 
 nel, asparagus, couchgrass, poli|io(iium, 
 and oak parsley, of each a handful : clean, 
 bruise the seeds, slice the roots, and put all 
 into the barley water, cover close, and 
 boil gently for twelve hours ; then strain 
 and press out the juice, and let it stand 
 twenty-four hours ; when clear, add to it 
 rose water and hyssop, half a pint of each, 
 and a pint of clarified juice of coltsfoot, a 
 drachm of safl'ron, three pints of the best 
 honey, and as many pounds of sugar as 
 quarts of liquor, boil this an hour and a 
 half, keeping it clean scummed, then bot- 
 tle it, cork it well, and put by for use. 
 
 BARLEY WATER. Put a quarter 
 of a pound of pearl-barley into two quarts 
 of water, let it boil, skim it ver}' clean, 
 boil half away, and strain it off. Sweeten 
 according to taste, and put in two glasses 
 of white wine, or some lemon-juice. Drink 
 it warm. 
 
 BERGAMOT DROPS. Mix the juice 
 of four or five lemons, and some sifted su- 
 gar, with a wooden spoon; add to this 
 twenty drops of essence of bergamot ; mix 
 it well in, and having stirred it over the 
 fire three or four minutes, drop it about 
 the size of a sixpence on writing paper, 
 and let them stand till cold. 
 
 BERGAMOT WAFERS. Squeeze 
 six lenions into a basin, and mix some 
 sifted sugar, essence of bergamot, and the 
 white of an egg, with the juice; beat 
 them together till very white ; if it becomea 
 too thick, add tlie juice of another lemon i 
 
BIS 
 
 265 
 
 BIS 
 
 spread your paste, and dry them as bar- 
 berry wafers. 
 
 BERGAMOT WATER. To the rinds 
 of three bergamots, put a gallon of proof 
 spirit, and two quarts of water; draw off 
 one gallon by the bain marie, and sweeten 
 witli sugar. 
 
 BERGAMOT WATER. Take three 
 gills of sirup, the juice of six lemons, and 
 when diluted sufficiently with water, add 
 a tea-spoonful of essence of bergamot. 
 Strain it through a fine sieve for use. 
 
 BERGAMOT WATER ICE. Stir 
 together the juice of three lemons, two gills 
 of sirup, half a pint of water, and half a 
 tea-spoonful of essence of bergamot, strain 
 and freeze it. 
 
 BETONY, CONSERVE OF. Take 
 a pound of betony, three jwunds of lotf su- 
 gar, beat them in a stone mortar; buil the 
 sugar with two quarts of betony water to 
 the thickness of a sirup, then mix them to- 
 gether by little and little, over a gentle 
 fire, make it into a conserve, and keej) it in 
 glasses. 
 
 BISCUITS. Lay the rind of a lemon 
 in boiling water, till it l)e tender; take half. 
 a pound of sweet almmds, and blanoh them 
 in cold water, and two ounces of gum-drag- 
 on, which soak in fair water; tlum pound 
 the almonds, putting in as you pound, the 
 whites of two eggs beaten hollow; pound 
 the lemon in a stone mortar by itself, and 
 put the gum and the lemon into the almonds, 
 and mix them well together; then beat a 
 pound of fine sugar in a mortar with the al- 
 monds, gum and lemon, and afterwards add 
 t\vo pounds more of fine sugar, stirring it 
 with a spoon, then roll it up in litile rolls, 
 and lay them upon white papers, and set 
 tliem in the oven, 
 
 BISCUITS IN CASES. Prepare 
 your mixture the same as for spoon biscuits, 
 and fill some little round or square cases 
 with it. Tlien with the rolling pin crush 
 some fine sugar, but not to a poyvder, and 
 strew it over your biscuits, which place on 
 a cop{)er plate, and when the sugar begins 
 to dissolve put them in a gentle oven, at the 
 mouth of which put a shovel full of burning 
 coals to crystallize the sugar; and when that 
 assumes the appearance of little pearls, re- 
 move the coals and close the oven. These 
 biscuits will require from twenty to fwenty- 
 five minutes baking. 
 
 BISCUITS ICED. Beat up the vyhite 
 of eight, and the yolks of six eggs, with a 
 
 pound of fine nowdered sugar, for two hours. 
 Have ready fourteen ounces of well-dried 
 sifted flour ; when the oven is ready and 
 your plates buttered, mix the flour as quick 
 as possible with tiie eggs, &c., and lay the 
 biscuits on the plates ; you may add a little 
 musk and ambergi-is. Bake in a quick oven, 
 
 BISCUIT, ITALIAN. Bake a biscuit, 
 made like Iced biscuit, in a plain, round 
 mould ; cut it across, in slices an inch 
 thick ; pour on each slice a spoonful of true 
 maras(!hino, and wiien they have ijnbibed 
 this, place them in their proper form, and 
 mask the whole, either with white of egg and 
 sugar, as biscuit with sweetmeats, or with 
 apricot marmalade, on which strew pounded 
 macaroons. 
 
 BISCUITS OF ITALIAN WATER. 
 
 Whisk up six eggs, and an equal weight of 
 powder-sugar, for half an hour. Take six 
 more eg:^s and I heir weight of flour, and mix 
 all togedier, and lay this mixture on pa|)er, i« 
 cakes the eighth of an inch thick, and about 
 two inches diameter ; lay them quite flat, 
 and do not let them touch. The oven should 
 be h(jt; five minutes will bake Uiem. When 
 cold, wet the unrier side of tlie paper, and 
 they will then remove easily. 
 
 BISCUITS, JUDGES. Break six 
 eggs into a basin, and whisk them well 
 for five minutes, add half a pound of pow- 
 der-sugar, and whisk again for ten minutes 
 longer; put some caraway-seeds and half 
 a pound of dry sifted flour ; mix them all 
 together with a wooden spoon. Droptliem 
 on pa|)er about the size of a crown-piece, 
 and thick in the middle ; sift sugar over, 
 and bake them in a brick oven. Take 
 them off the paper while hot. 
 
 BISCUITS, LIGHT. Take ten eggs, 
 put the yolks of five in a pan with a few 
 crisped orange- flowers, the peel of a greeo 
 lemon, both shied fine, and three-quarters 
 of a pound of fine sugar; beat the whole 
 together till the sugar is dissolved and well 
 mixed with the eggs. Beat tlie ten whites 
 to a froth, and add to the sugar, stir in 
 lightly, and by degrees, six ounces of flour, 
 put them into buttered moulds, powdering 
 them with fine sugar, and bake tliem in a 
 moderate oven. 
 
 BISCUITS, MANQUES. Put into an 
 earUien pan half a pound of powder-sugar, 
 three-quarters of a pound of flour, a quarter 
 of a pound of butler, the same of pounded 
 almonds, a little salt, and some orange- 
 flower water, six yolks, and two whole 
 eggs ; l)eat up tliese ingredients well j whip 
 the six whites, and mix them gradually 
 
BIS 
 
 263 
 
 BIS 
 
 with the above preparation ; make a paper 
 case, butler and pour in it your biscuit 
 paste and bake it. Meanwhile cut some 
 almonds into either dice or slips, mix them 
 with some powder-sugar and white of egg; 
 when the biscuit manques is about three 
 parts done, dorez and cover it with this 
 latter mixture ; then replace it in the oven 
 and finish baking. As soon as it is done, 
 take it out and cut it into whatever forms 
 your fancy may dictate. 
 
 BISCUITS, MARBLED. Make twen- 
 ty-four eggs, a pound of powder-sugar, and 
 three-quarters of a pound of dried and sifted 
 flour, into a biscuit paste, as directed for 
 Spoon Biscuits) then beat four ounces 
 of dissolved chocolate in an earthen pan, 
 and add to it a third of the paste; when it 
 is well mixed, divide it in half, and to one 
 half mix a quarter of the biscuit-paste, which 
 will tinge that portion a light chocolate col- 
 or. After this, mix together some vegeta- 
 ble red and infusion of saffron to color half 
 the remaining paste orange; then divide 
 that again, and mix the last quarter with 
 half the orange-color, thus your paste will 
 be colored with two shades of chocolate 
 and two of orange. 
 
 Make two paper cases, each eight inch- 
 es square and three high, pour into one of 
 these a large spoonful of the chocolate- 
 paste, and when it has spread over the bot- 
 tom of the case, pour in one of the orange- 
 colored, on which another of the chocolate, 
 and so on, alternately, until the case is half 
 full ; then sprinkle it with flour, and piit it 
 into a slow oven for three-quarters of an 
 hmir. Put the remainder of your biscuit- 
 paste (both colors) into a pan and stir them 
 together with a spoon till the whole is 
 veined, or clouded with the two colors ; pour 
 it into the other case, sprinkle it with flour 
 and bake like the former; when quite cold, 
 cut them into slices about two inches thick, 
 half of which should be broken, and the oUier 
 half cut in pieces of an equal size, lay them 
 on a baking-plate, and dry them in the oven. 
 These are generally used to make the rocks 
 in ornamental pastry, and may be colored 
 with the usual materials, according to your 
 fancy. 
 
 BISCUITS, MARCHPANE. Beat a 
 pound of sweet almonds to a very fine 
 paste, moisten them with water, then put 
 them and a pound of powder-sugar into a 
 saucepan, over a clear but not fierce char- 
 coal fire, stirring constantly, till the paste 
 leaves adhere together ; put it on a floured 
 slab, and work it well with your hands for 
 some time, then roll small pieces of it about 
 three inches long and half the thickness of 
 your little finger, join the ends of each and 
 
 make them mto round rings, lay them on a 
 sieve in a dry warm place for two or three 
 days. When wanted, mix some powder- 
 sugar widi the whites of eight eggs, and 
 beat them with a wooden spoon in each 
 hand ; add a cup of orange-flower water. 
 Put your rings into this icing, and cover 
 them completely ; lay them on a sheet of 
 paper and bake in a slow oven until the 
 icing sets and they Fiegin to change color. 
 Do not remove them fiom the paper till cold . 
 
 BISCUITS, MILLEFRUIT. Take 
 
 preserved orange and lemon-peel, a quar- 
 ter of a pound of each, §ix ounces of angel- 
 ica, the same of sweet, and one ounce of 
 bitter almonds ; cut all the aboVe ingredients 
 into pieces half an inch long and a quarter 
 wide. Make an icing with white of eggs, 
 sugar and orange-flower water ; put the al- 
 monds, &Ci into this, and having paper on 
 your baking-tin, lay the cakes on it, of 
 whatever size you please ; then with a hair 
 pencil touch them here and there with a 
 little cochineal. Bake tiiem, but not in too 
 hot an oven. 
 
 BISCUITS, MONKEY. Take the 
 vveight of six eggs in powder-sugar, and 
 mix it with the yolks and a little pounded 
 cinnamon; whisk the whites to a firm froth, 
 and stir them lightly into the yolks; add 
 four \vhole eggs, and their weight of dry 
 sifted flour, mix them well together; take 
 this mixture in a spoon, and lay it in about 
 the size of a half-crown piece on paper, 
 join two together with the spoon, and when 
 your paper is full, sprinkle powder-sugar 
 over and bake them ; a few minutes will do 
 them. Remove them from the paper while 
 hot and put tlie two undersides together. 
 
 BISCUITS, PRINCESS AMELIA. 
 
 Put the whites of twelve eggs into an earth- 
 en pan, whisk them to a thick snow, and 
 add to them eight ounces of double refined 
 sugar, pounded and sifted; having mixed 
 them, put in three ounces of flour, and three 
 of powder-sugar sifted, the grated rind of 
 one or two lemons and half a coffee cup of 
 orange-flower watei", stir them well with a 
 wooden spoon, but take care not to spoil the 
 snow: drop them on paper of a larger size 
 than the sweet biscuits, and bake them to 
 a clear brown in a moderate oven. Take 
 them from the paper while hot. 
 
 BISCUITS, SAVOY. Whip twelve 
 whites of eggs to a snow; beat the yolks 
 with a pound and a quarter of powder-sugar, 
 mix them together, with three-cjuarters of a 
 pound of flour and the grated rind of a lem- 
 on, into a paste, rub your mould with melted 
 butter, and bake it. 
 
BIS 
 
 264 
 
 BIS 
 
 BISCUITS, LARGE SAVOY. Take 
 fifly-?ix eggs, four pounds of sugar, tlie zes- 
 tes of four oranges, a pound and three-quar- 
 ters of potatoe-flour sifted ; and make your 
 biscuit as follows: grate tlie zestes of tiie 
 oranges on a piece of sugar, and as soon as 
 it becomes colored, scrape it off, and grate 
 again until all the zeste is done, then dry 
 tlie sugar perfectly, crush and sift it. 
 
 Break your eggs one by one, (taking care 
 that all are perfectly fresh ; ) put the yolks 
 and whites into separate vessels ; mix half 
 your sugar with the former, stirring it in 
 with a spatula until perfectly smooth, then 
 add the remainder, and work it well for 
 twenty minutes. Whip the whites till quite 
 firm, putting in a small quantity of pounded 
 alum; when sufficiently whipped, which 
 may be known by little points rising when 
 the whisk is taken out; mix a little with 
 the yolks; still, however, keeping the whites 
 stirring; then pour tSe yolks on them very 
 gently mixing them together as you pour, 
 with the whisk: sift over the whole a pound 
 of potatoe-flour, stirring the mixture all the 
 time; when ready to put into the mould, 
 your paste should be very smooth, and some- 
 what of the consistence of treacle. Butter 
 the mould, and put in a few spoonfuls of 
 your paste at first, to prevent any globules 
 of air appearing on the top when baked; 
 pour in the remainder carefully. Cover a 
 baking-plate with hot ashes, lay the mould 
 in the midst of ihem, and place it in a mod- 
 erate oven; keep it open for an hour, that 
 the biscuit may be watched, and if it takes 
 color too quickly, cover it with paper. In 
 three hours tirne take it from the oven, and 
 if it he of a good color, and firm, turn it on 
 a baking-tin, tie round it a band of double 
 pa|ier, and replace it in die oven for a quar- 
 ter of an hour to dry. 
 
 IBID, WITH ALMONDS. The in- 
 
 gredients for this biscuit are the same as 
 above, with the addition of four eggs, and 
 half a pound of bitter almonds: blanch the 
 almonds, then wash, drain, and dry them in 
 a napkin ; pound them with whites of eggs 
 in the usual way, to a fine paste, pass it 
 tlirough a sieve, and then mix it with the 
 additional eggs; add this to the sugar and 
 yolks, and proceed as above. 
 
 BISCUITS, SPICE. Take three 
 pounds of flour, three pounds of almonds, cut 
 in half, three ounces of cinnamon and mace 
 pounded, and one pound of powder-sugar; 
 mix them all together on your slab; boil 
 three pounds of Lisbon sugar with some wa- 
 ter ; make the above ingredients into a paste 
 with this, and roll it to the size of a large 
 rolling-pin; lay it on a sheet of paper, flat 
 it down a little with your hand, keeping it 
 
 higher in the middle than at the ends; put 
 it into a very hot oven ; when done, take it 
 out, and while hot, cut it across, in slices an 
 eighth of an inch thick, and dry diem. 
 
 BISCUITS, FINE SPONGE. Breiik 
 
 twelve eggs, separate the yolks and whites; 
 to the former put tliree (j^iarters of a pound 
 of powder-sugar, stir them well with a wood- 
 en spoon, till it rises in large bladders; 
 whisk the whites to a very firm fiotii, and 
 then mix them very lightly with the yolks 
 and sugar, and when incorporated, add ten 
 ounces of fine dried and sifted flour. Stir 
 them all together well, and pour the mix- 
 ture into well-buttered tin moulds, sift sugar 
 over, and bake them in a moderate oven. 
 Take them from the tins while hot. 
 
 BISCUITS, SPOON. Break four eggs, 
 put the yolks and whites into separate 
 basins; add to the former a quarter of a 
 pound of powder-sugar; having grated on 
 it the zeste of a lemon, mix these together 
 well with a spatula fur ten niimncs; then 
 whip the whites to a froth, and put about 
 half of them to the yolks, and when that is 
 well mixed in, add the rest; stir it very 
 lightly, and lay them with a spoon on paper, 
 make them about three inches long, and the 
 breadth of a finger. Glaze them with pow- 
 der-sugar, and place them on baking tins, 
 add, as the sugar dissolves, and they shine, 
 put the biscuits into a moderate oven, which 
 must be kept open for seven or eight minutes 
 then close it until your biscuits are of a pro- 
 per color. Wlien cold, detach them Irom 
 the paper with a thin kniti;-blade, and lay 
 them by, in couples, die glazed sides out- 
 wards, till wanted 
 
 BISCUITS, SWEET. Take half a 
 pound of fine pounded sugar, and sift it 
 tlirough a tammy. Put the whites of twelve 
 eggs into a p,reserving-pan, and the yolks 
 into an eardienware tureen ; whip the whites 
 to a snow, and then carefully pour on it the 
 yolks and sugar; stir them gently; place 
 your pan over a chafing-dish ; continue 
 whipping the whole for a full half hour, and 
 then, if the drop which falls from the whisk 
 lays a little while without spreading, take it 
 from the fire, and whisk again till it is cold; 
 then add half a pound of line sifted flour, stir 
 it in gently with a wooden spoon. Drop 
 them on paper, sift sugar over, and bake 
 them in a warm oven until of a deep yellow; 
 take them from the papers while warm; 
 bake them as soon as possible after they are 
 di-opt on paper. 
 
 BISCUITS, SWEETMEAT. Cut 
 
 some Naples biscuits into pieces about an 
 inch thick, and an inch afid a half s(|ua>e. 
 
BLA 
 
 265 
 
 and just crisp them in the oven. Make some 
 icing witii whites oreggs, sugar, and orange- 
 flower water; dip one side of tlie bfsciiit 
 into it; cut some preserved lemon and 
 orange-peel and angelica into small pieces ; 
 strew them over the biscuits, and dry the 
 icing in the oven. 
 
 BISCUITS, TOAD-IN-A-HOLE. 
 
 Beat a pound of sweet, and an ounce and a 
 half of bitter almonds to a fine smooth paste, 
 moisten with water, and mix die paste, 
 which should not be too thin, with a pound 
 and a c|uarter of white sugar. Lay a sheet 
 of writing-paper on your baking-plate, and 
 wafer-pa|)er on that; lay the biscuits about 
 the size of a half-crown piece ; put a diied 
 cherry in the middle of eacli ; sift sugar over 
 and bake diem in a moderate oven. When 
 done, cut die wafer-paper round, but do not 
 take it away. 
 
 BLACKBERRY WINE. Put full ripe 
 blackberries into a large vesf^el with a cock 
 in it, pour on as much boiling water as 
 will cover diem, and as soon as the heat 
 will permit, bruise them well with the hand 
 till all the berries are broken; cover them, 
 and in about three or four days, when the ber- 
 ries rise to die top, draw oif the clear part 
 into aiiodier vessel ; add to every ten quarts 
 of the liquor one pound of sugar, stir it well 
 in, and let it stand a week or ten days to 
 work. Draw it oiFdirough a jelly-bag. Sleep 
 four ounces of isinglass in a pint of sweet 
 wine fur twelve hours, tlien boil it slowly 
 till dissolved, [)ut it in a gallon of the black- 
 beiTy juice, boil them together and then 
 put a" .ogether ; let it stand a few days, and 
 bottle. 
 
 BLANC-MANGE, DUTCH. Put a 
 
 pint of cleared calf's-lbot jelly into a stew- 
 pan ; mix with it die yplks of six eggs, set 
 it over a fire, and whisk till it begins to 
 boil; then set the pan in cold water, and stir 
 the mixture till nearly cold, to prevent it 
 from curdling, and when it begins to thicken 
 fill the moulds. 
 
 BLANC-MAiNGE, FRENCH. Blanch 
 one pound of sweet, and a score of bitter 
 almonds: drain them on a sieve, and after- 
 wards dry them, by rubbing them in a nap- 
 kin; pound them in a mortar, continually 
 moistening them with half a tea-spoonful of 
 water at a time, to prevent their oiling. 
 When they are pounded as fine as possible, 
 take them out of the mortar, and put them 
 into a pan; then with a silver spoon, beat 
 lip your almonds gradually, with five glasses 
 of filtered water; after this, spread a napkin 
 over an oval dish, and put your almonds 
 upon it ; then gather up the corners of your 
 23 
 
 ..TTTTT ^r TT V ■ .. r m 
 
 napkin, and «6vrmg it very %ht, lo presa oat ' 
 all the milk from the almonds; then pot 
 into this milk, twelve ounces of ci-ystallized 
 sugar, broken into small pieces; when the v 
 sugar is dissolved, pass the whole through a 
 napkin; and then add to it one ounce of 
 clarified isinglass, rather warmer than luke- 
 warm; and when the whole is well incorpo- 
 rated together, pour it into your mould. 
 Your mould should be previously put into 
 ten pounds of pounded ice ; when your blanc- 
 mange is ready to serve, (which will be in 
 two hours after it has been put into the 
 mould,) you must take it out of the mould 
 according to the rule prescribed in Violet 
 Jelly. 
 
 BLANC-MANGE WITH FRUIT. 
 
 Boil an ounce and a half of isinglass, and 
 when quite dissolved, strain it. Let it cool 
 for half an hour, skim, and pour it free from 
 sediment into anodier pan ; dien whisk wiUi 
 it a table-spoonful of cedraf, and half a 
 pound of currant jelly, strawberry, or rasp- 
 berry jam ; and when it begins to jelly, fill 
 the moulds. 
 
 BLANC-MANGE, without either 
 Isinglass or Icing. Prepare your 
 almonds in the same manner as in the re- 
 ceipt for Blanc-mange a la Francaise, but 
 only using hall the quantity specified in Uiat 
 receipt, and likewise leaving out the isinglass. 
 Then put into a pan the whiles of four eggs, 
 and whip tliein till they begin to whiten, 
 then add your blanc-mange, and place your 
 pan over hot ashes, and continue to whip 
 your preparation until the egg is thoroughly 
 mixed with the almonds, and the whole be- 
 gins to turn to a thick cream ; and when it 
 is of a proper consistence, pour into little 
 cups, and serve it either hot or cold. 
 
 When you wish to serve this entremet 
 in little cups, and of any flavor you please, 
 you must only make use of two-Uiirds of the 
 quantity of almonds, named in the receipt 
 for Blanc-mange French. 
 
 BOUCHEES DE DAMES. Mix with 
 
 six eggs, a quarter of a pound of sugar, 
 three ounces of potato-flour, a little salt, 
 and a pinch of dried orange-flowers : beat 
 them together well, and havmg buttered a 
 tin, lay your paste on it, and bake it in a 
 gentle oven for a quarter of an hour ; when 
 done, cut it in pieces, about the size of a 
 crown piece, and glaze them, mask them 
 according to your pleasure, and dry them 
 in the oven. 
 
 BOUCHEES PETITES, GLACEES. 
 Roll some puff paste to about tlie eighth of 
 an inch in thickness, and with a plain roood 
 paste-cutter, of two inches diameter, cut out 
 
BOU 
 
 266 
 
 BUT 
 
 as many cakes as you may require; then 
 with a smaller cutter, take out the middle 
 of half the number, so as to make rings of 
 them ; moisten the edges of the former, and 
 lay the rings on them; wet them also as 
 you lay them down, sprinkle them lightly 
 with powder sugar, and bake them in a 
 brisk oven. These bouchees require great 
 attention in baking, as the sugar is apt to 
 dissolve and color too quickly ; when done, 
 they should be of a reddish tinge. Fill 
 them with sweatmeats, preserves, or whip- 
 ped cream, according to fancy. 
 
 BOUCHEES DE MONSIEUR. Pound 
 a stick of vanilla with two ounces of pow- 
 der-sugar, and then sift it; mix with it 
 seven additional ounces of dry powder-su- 
 gar, and half a pound of sifted flour; add to 
 this the whites of four eggs, whipped firm, 
 and work them together till the paste is 
 very smooth and soft. Heat two copper- 
 plates, rub them over with wax, and then 
 wipe them; when cold, lay the paste with 
 a knife, in pieces about the size of a filbert, 
 shaded quite round, leave three-quarters of 
 an inch space between each; when tlie 
 plates are full, put them on stools in an oven, 
 so tliat they can receive no heat from below, 
 then put a stove with hot coals on the top 
 of the oven, and let them remain in this 
 state for twenty-four hours ; then put them 
 for fifteen or twenty minutes into a mode- 
 rate oven. Take them from the plates 
 whilst hot, and as soon as cold, finish them 
 in the same way as bouchees de dames; 
 gJaze them with chocolate, a la rose, with 
 pistachios, orange, cedrat, &c. &c. They 
 may also be masked with sugar, pistachios, 
 currants, &c. 
 
 BOUCHEES PETITES, MERIN- 
 GUES A UX PISTACHES. Make them 
 the same as above, strew sugar over with- 
 out wetting the rings, and bake them to a 
 light color in a moderate oven. Then mix 
 a quarter of a pound of powder-sugar with 
 three whites of eggs, well whipped, and 
 mask the bouchees lightly with it, and 
 glaze them with sugar; having ready a 
 quarter of a pound of pistachio-nuts blanch- 
 ed, and each cut across sloping ; place these 
 pieces round the edge of the bouchees like 
 a crown ; and each piece of the pistachios 
 being placed on the cut side, they stand out 
 from the edge of the bouchee: this process 
 being finished, put them in the oven again a 
 few minutes, to color the egg ; and in the 
 meantime stir up the white of egg which 
 remains, and make with it half as many 
 meringuees as you have bouchees, sprin- 
 kle them with sugar, and color both sides 
 of them in a slow oven ; and when the bou- 
 chees are ready for table, fill them with 
 
 whipped cream, with pistachios, and cofter 
 each with half a meringue. 
 
 BOUCHEES PETITES, PERLEES. 
 
 Your bouchees being made and baked as 
 above, whip the whites of two eggs to a 
 firm froth, and mix them with four spoon- 
 fuls of sifted sugar, and when very smooth, 
 mask your bouchees with it: then take 
 some white of egg, and with the point of a 
 knife, drop them in pearls about the size of 
 a grape-stone, round each bouchee, half an 
 inch apart, sprinkle them lightly with sugar, 
 and dry the egg in the oven, taking care 
 tney do not lose their whiteness. 
 
 When cold, place between each pearl a 
 smaller one of red-currant jelly. Fill your 
 bouchees with apricot marmalade, apple- 
 jelly, &c. ; i<^ however, the jelly, or what- 
 ever else you may use, be of a red color, 
 your intermediate pearls should be composed 
 of ligiit-colored preserve, such as apricot 
 marmalade, &c. These should be pearled 
 a few at a time only. 
 
 BOUCHEES PETITES, PRALI- 
 
 NEES. Having prepared the bouchees as 
 usual, dorez and bake them in a moderate 
 oven ; when they are of the proper color, 
 mask them with whites of eggs mixed with 
 sugar, and almonds minced very small; re- 
 place them in the oven a minute or two, 
 and then strew red, or any other colored 
 sugar on them, but not so thick as to cover 
 the almonds entirely. Fill the bouchees 
 as usual. 
 
 BOUCHEES PETITES, a la 
 Reine. The same as above, only the 
 paste must be cut thicker, and liefore you 
 dorez, let them stand a few minutes. Bake 
 in a brisk oven. 
 
 BUCKTHORN, SIRUP OF. (1) Gath- 
 er the berries in the heat of the day, and set 
 in an earthen vessel in the oven ; squeeze out 
 the juice, and for each peck of berries put 
 two pounds of white sugar, and boil them 
 together a quarter of an hour ; let it cool, 
 and then bottle it. 
 
 BUCKTHORN, SIRUP OF. (2) Take 
 three quarts of the juice of clarified buck- 
 thorn berries, and four pounds of brown 
 sugar; make them into a sirup over a gentle 
 fire, and while warm, mix with it a drachm 
 of the distilled oil of cloves, dissolved on a 
 lump of sugar. The true buckthorn may be 
 known by the number of its seeds, having 
 four, tlie alder buckthorn has only two, and 
 the cherry buckthorn one seed. The for- 
 mer is to be used. 
 
 BUTTER, BLACK. Three pounds of 
 
CAN 
 
 267 
 
 CAP 
 
 fruit, currants, gooseberries, raspbeiTies, 
 and cherries, to a pound of coarse sugar, 
 boiled till quite tiiick. It must waste to 
 half the quantity. 
 
 C. 
 
 CAKES MADE OF FLOWERS. Boil 
 double refined sugar to a candy height, and 
 strew in your flovvei-s and let them boil 
 once up; "then, witli your hand, lightly 
 strew in a little double refined sugar sifted, 
 and put it directly into little pans raatle of 
 card, and pricked full of holes at the bot- 
 tom; you must set the pans on a cushion, 
 and when they are cold, take them out. 
 
 CAKES, HONEYCOMB. Boil your 
 sugar to a candy height ; then put in your 
 flowers, which must be cut; have little pa- 
 pers with four corners ready ; drop some of 
 your candy on the papers, take them off 
 when ready, and if they are rightly done, 
 they will look full of holes like honeycombs. 
 
 CAKES, LIQUORICE. Take hyssop 
 and red rose water, of each half a pint, half 
 a pound of green liquorice, tiie outside 
 scraped off, and then beat with a pestle; 
 put to it half a pound of aniseeds, and steep 
 it all night in the water; boil it with a 
 gentle fire till the taste is well out of the 
 liquorice ; sti-ain it, put to it three pounds 
 of liquorice powder, and set it on a gentle 
 fire till it is come to the thickness of cream; 
 take it off, and put to it half a pound of 
 white sugar candy seered very fine; beat 
 this well together for at least three liours, 
 and never suffer it to stand still; as you 
 beat it, you must strew in double-refined 
 sugar finely seered, at least three pounds ; 
 half an hour before it is finished, put in half 
 a spoonful of gum dragon, steeped in or- 
 ange-flower water: when it is very white 
 then it is beat enough ; roll it up with white 
 sugar; and if you want it perfumed, put in 
 a pastil or two. 
 
 CANDYING. Fruit intended for can- 
 dying must be first preserved, and dried in 
 a stove before the fire, that none of the sir- 
 up may remain in it. Sugar intended for 
 the use of candying must be thus prepared: 
 put into a tossing-pan a pound of sugar, 
 with half a pint of water, and set it over a 
 very clear fire. Take off the scum as it 
 rises; boil it till it looks clear and fine, and 
 take out a little in a silver spoon. When 
 it is cold, if it will draw a thread from 
 your spoon, it is boiled enough for any kind 
 of sweetmeat. Then boil your sirup, and 
 wbea it begins to candy round the edge of 
 
 your pan, it is candy height. It is a gr^t 
 mistake to put any kind of sweetmeat into 
 too thick a sirup, especially at the first, as 
 it widiers the fiuit, and botli the beauty and 
 flavor are thereby destroyed. 
 
 CANDY FLOWERS. Take the 
 best treble-refined sugar, break it into 
 lumps, and dip it piece by piece into water; 
 put them into a vessel of silver, and melt 
 diem over tlie fire; when it just boife, 
 strain it, and set it on the fire again, and 
 let it boil till it draws in hairs, which you 
 may perceive by holding up your spoon; 
 then put in the flowers, and set them in cups 
 or glasses. When it is of a hard candy, 
 break it in lumps, and lay it as high as you 
 please. Dry it in a stove, or in the sun, 
 and it will look like sugar-candy. 
 
 CANDY, ALL SORTS OF FRUIT. 
 When finished in the sirup, put a layer into 
 a new sauce, and dip it suddenly into hot 
 water, to take off the sirup that hangs about 
 it; put it on a napkin before the fire to 
 drain, and then do some more on the sieve. 
 Have ready-sifted double-refined sugar, 
 which sift over the fruit on all sides, till 
 quite white. Set it on the shallow end of 
 tlie sieves in a lightly-warm oven, and turn 
 it two or three times. It must not be cold 
 till di-y. Watch it carefully, and it will be 
 beautiful. 
 
 CANELLONS. Make a stiff paste, 
 with a little melted butter, a spoonful or 
 two of water, some rasped lemon-peel, an 
 egg, a quarter of a pound of floui', and half 
 that quantity of sugar ; roll it very thin ; 
 make a little cane of caid-paper, butter it 
 well on the outside, and wrap it in some of 
 the paste; bake it a few minutes; take out 
 the card, and fill the paste with currant jel- 
 ly, or any other jelly or sweetmeat you 
 please. 
 
 CANNELLONS MERINGUES. WTiip 
 
 the whites of two eggs, and having mixed 
 tliem with two spoonfuls of powder-sugar, 
 then mask the cannellons; when baked, 
 crush a quarter of a pound of fine sugai*, 
 and roll the cannellons in it; replace them 
 a few minutes in the oven, and then finish. 
 The masking of these cannellons may be 
 varied according to taste, with pistachios, 
 dried currants, &c. the former cut in pieces, 
 the latter well washed, dried and mixed 
 with an efjual quantity of sugar. 
 
 CAPILLAIRE, SIRUP OF. The 
 
 capillaire of Canada, aUhough lliat of Mont- 
 pelier is equally good, is a very odorife- 
 rous vegetable, light and agreeable, but so 
 extieraely volatile, that the greatest part of 
 
CAR 
 
 268 
 
 CAR 
 
 it is dissipated during tlie preparation of 
 the sirup. To preserve then the odour of 
 the capillaire, when your sirup is sufficient- 
 ly done, pour it, whilst boiling, upon some 
 fresh capillaire coarsely chopped up; then 
 cover your vessel, and let it stand until it 
 is quite cold, then pass it through a bolting- 
 cloth to separate it from the leaves of the 
 capillaire. 
 
 Take one ounce of the capillaire from 
 Canada; put it into a glazed pan, pour upon 
 it four pints of boiling water, leave it to in- 
 fuse for twelve hours over some warm ashes ; 
 strain it and let it run into a vessel, it will 
 give you a strong tincture of capillaire; 
 melt in this tincture four pounds of sugar, 
 put the whole into a preserving-pan, and 
 put it on the fire, and clarify it with the 
 while of an egg, continue the cooking; when 
 your sirup is perle, put some fresh capil- 
 laire, chopped, into a pan, and pour your 
 sirup, whilst boiling, upon it; cover your 
 pan carefully, and let it cool; when your 
 sirup is cold, you may flavor it if you please. 
 Put it into bottles, and cork them hermeti- 
 cally. 
 
 CAPILLAIRE, SIRUP OF. (2) Take 
 some good capillaire, chop it up, not very 
 small, put it upon a sieve; pour upon it 
 some boiling water, and then let it infuse 
 for ten hours in a vessel well covered ; strain 
 this infusion, and put into it some sugar 
 boiled au casse; clarify this sirup with the 
 whites of eggs whipped; skim it till it is 
 very clear ; when it rises, take it off the 
 fire, and leave it to cool, then put it into 
 bottles. 
 
 Viard and Beauvilliers, whose receipts 
 are nearly the same, boil their capillaire for 
 a quarter of an hour in river- water; after 
 having passed this boiling through a sieve, 
 they put into it some powder-sugar, and 
 clarify their sirup with water, or a ^hole 
 egg beaten up; then skim it, and when it is 
 veiy clear and has boiled au lisse, they 
 take it off the fire, and put into it some 
 orange-flower water, and strain it through 
 a napkin or straining-bag, leaving it to 
 cool before putting it into bottles. 
 
 For three pints and a half of sirup, you 
 must use two good ounces of capillaire, four 
 pints of water, and four pounds of sugar, 
 powder-sugar is the best, as it prevents sir- 
 ups from candying. 
 
 CARAMEL. Break into a small copper 
 or brass pan one pound of refined sugar ; 
 put in a gill of spring-water ; set it on a 
 fire; when it boils skim it quite clean, and 
 let it lx)il quick, till it comes to the degree 
 called crack; which may be known by dip- 
 ping a tra-spoon or skewer into the sugar, 
 and letting it drop to the bottom of a pan 
 
 of cold water; and if it remains hard, it has 
 attained that degree : squeeze in the juice 
 of half a lemon, and let it remain one min- 
 ute longer on the fire ; then .set the pan into 
 another of cold water : have ready moulds 
 of any shape; rub them over with sweet 
 oil ; dip a spoon or fork into the sugar, and 
 throw it over the mould in fine threads, till 
 it is quite covered: make a small handle of 
 caramel, or stick on two or three small gum 
 paste rings, by way of ornament, and place 
 it over small pastry of any description. 
 
 CARAMEL CONSERVE. Clarify the 
 quantity of sugar you may require, and boil 
 k to caramel ; have ready some cases of 
 double paper; pour in your sugar to the 
 thickness of half an inch, and trace on its 
 surface the forms you wish it to have ; when 
 cold, break it according to those marks. 
 This conserve may be colored and flavored 
 according to the fancy. 
 
 CARAMEL COVER FOR SWEET- 
 MEATS. Dissolve eight ounces of double- 
 refined sugar in three or four spoonfuls of 
 water, and three or four drops of lemon- 
 juice; then put it into a copper untinned 
 skillet; when it boils to be thick, dip the 
 handle of a spoon in it, and put that into a 
 pint basin of water, squeeze the sugar from 
 the spoon into it, and so on till you have all 
 tlie sugar. Take a bit out of the water, 
 and if it snaps and is brittle when cold, it is 
 done enough ; but only let it be three parts 
 cold, then pour the water from the sugar, 
 and having a copper mould oiled well, run 
 the sugar on it, in the manner of a maze, 
 and when cold you may put it on the dish it 
 is to cover ; but if, on trial, the sugar is not 
 brittle, pour off the water, and return it in- 
 to the skillet, and boil it again. It should 
 look thick like treacle, but of a bright light 
 gold color. It makes a most elegant cover. 
 
 CARDAMUM COMFITS. Procure 
 your cardamums at the chemists, and they 
 will be in a shell; put them into the oven to 
 dry the skins, and they will break; pick all 
 the seeds from them, put the seeds into a 
 large comfit-pan, and have a fire irtider the 
 same as for others; mix your gum, starch, 
 and sirup, and finish them the sauie as cara- 
 way comfits. 
 
 CARAW^AY CAKE. Dry a quarter 
 of a peck of fine flour in an oven; rub a 
 pound and a half of fresh butter in it, till it 
 is crumbled so small that none of it is to be 
 seen ; then take six spoonfuls of rose water, 
 half a pint of canary, half a pint of cream, 
 and three-quarters of a pint of new ale yeast, 
 an i ihe whites of two, and yolks of four 
 eggs ; mix all these well together, let it lie 
 
CAS 
 
 CHA 
 
 before the fire, and wlien you make it up 
 put in a pound and a half of Naples biscuits, 
 and three-quarters of a pound of card way- 
 comfits. Bake it. 
 
 CARAWAY COMFITS. Take some 
 fine caraway seeds, sift all the dust from 
 them, and have a large copper preserving- 
 pan, about two feet wide, and with two 
 iiandles and two pieces of iron made as a 
 ring on each side ; then you must have a 
 pulley fixed to the beam, and a cord with a 
 hook to each end, so as to fix it at each 
 side of the pan to let it sling; then have 
 some fine starch as white as you can get, 
 and just soften it, boil some sirup a quarter 
 of an hour, and mix it with the starch; 
 take some giun arable, put it into some 
 water, then put that into another pan, and 
 make it just warm; have an iron-pot with 
 charcoal fire under the large pan, but not 
 too hot, only just to keep the pan warm; 
 have a large tub to put your pot of fire at 
 bottom, and your large pan must l)e on the 
 top ; put the cai^away seeds into your pan ; 
 add a large ladleful of gum arable, rub them 
 with your hands until you find they are all 
 dry, then put a ladleful of starch and sirup, 
 and do the same over your pan of fire, until 
 you find they are all dry; put the gum only 
 threeror four times to them at first, then the 
 starch and sugar, but boil your sij-up more 
 as you find they come to coat with it, and 
 not so much starch ; when you have dried 
 them seven or eight times, put them into 
 your sieve; put them into the stove, do 
 them the next day, and so, successively, for 
 six or seven days. 
 
 CARAWAY DRAGEES. Take any 
 quantity of caniway seeds you think proper, 
 put them into a preserving-pan, and when 
 quite warm, put in clarified sugar, a little 
 at a time, stirring it occasionally, till of the 
 size you wish; then proceed as directed for 
 Almond Dragees. 
 
 CASSIA CANDIED. Pound a little 
 musk and ambergris witli as much of the 
 powder of cassia as will lie on two shil- 
 lings. Having pounded them well together, 
 take a quarter of a pound of fine sugar, and 
 as much water as will wet it, and boil it to 
 a candy height, then put in your powder 
 and mix well together. Butter some pew- 
 ter saucers, and when it is cold turn it out. 
 
 CASSIA RATAFIA OF. Take a 
 pound of cassia, half a pound of bitter 
 cherries, a quarter of a pound of cassia 
 leaves, and half a drachm of cinnamon; 
 bruise the two first, cut up the leaves, and 
 pound the cinnamon, infuse these ingredi- 
 ents in three quart? of brandy for tliree 
 23* 
 
 weeks. Dissolve two pounds of sugar in a 
 quart of water, and mix with the liqueur, 
 and let it stand some time longer, then 
 strain and bottle it. Cork it up close. ' 
 
 CEDRATS, BLANCMANGE OF. 
 
 Grate the rind of a cedrat upon some sugar 
 in the usual way, until six ounces of sugar 
 have been used ; blanch and pound a pound 
 of sweet almonds, moistening them with 
 water; when perfectly smooth, dilute them 
 with five glasses of water put in by degrees ; 
 then pour them in a napkin, and squeezing 
 it, express the milk of almonds from them; 
 divide this into two equal parts, with one 
 of which mix the six ounces of sugar witli 
 the cedrat, and with the other portion, mix 
 the same quantity of plain sugar; as soon 
 as both are dissolved, strain them, and put 
 in each half an ounce of isinglass: your 
 mould being placed in ice, pour into it the 
 white blancmange to three-quarters of an 
 inch in depth ; as soon as that is set, pour 
 in an equal quantity of the other, which 
 ought to be of a clear yellow ; when that 
 also is set, pour in some white, and so on 
 alternately, till the mould is full. Turn out 
 the blancmange as directed in Blancmange 
 French. 
 
 CEDRAT, CONSERVE OF. Grate 
 the rind of a cedrat all round, until the juice 
 is ready to ooze out; this must be done by 
 rubbing it against a large piece of sugar, 
 (about a pound;) remove the surface of 
 this sugar, to which the grated rind adheres, 
 with a knile, and squeeze to it half the juice 
 of the cedrat. Dissolve the remainder of 
 the sugar to the degree grande plume, 
 then take it from the fire, and when it has 
 stood a little while, put in your cedrat, stir- 
 ring it with a spoon, until a sort of ice 
 forms on the top ; you may then pour your 
 conserve into moulds. Be careful nut to 
 put it in too hot. 
 
 CEDRAT ZESTES, JELLY OF. 
 Take three-quarters of a pound of lump su- 
 gar, grate on it the zestea of two cedrats, 
 and, as the sugar becomes colored, scrape 
 it oft' with a knife, and grate again, and so 
 on until all the zeste is gone; dissolve the 
 scraped sugar in two glasses of water, and, 
 witli the juice of four lemons, pass it through 
 a jelly bag. Clarify the remainder of the 
 sugar, and then put a fourth of it into a 
 small preserving pan; boil it to caramel 
 height, to color the jelly; mix this, the 
 fruit, the sirup, and an ounce of isinglassr 
 together, and finish in the usual way. 
 
 CHANTILLY BASKET. Dip some 
 ratafia cakes into clarified sugar boiled to 
 caramel height; place ihem round the ia- 
 
CHE 
 
 2tO 
 
 CHE 
 
 side of a dish ; then cut more ratafia cakes 
 into squares, dip tliem also into sugar, and 
 pile them coiner-ways on the row, and so 
 on for two or three stories high. Line the 
 inside with wafer-paper, and fill it with 
 sponge biscuit, sweetmeats, blanched al- 
 monds, or some made cream; put tritle 
 over tliat, and garnish the froth with rose- 
 leaves, colored comfits, or caramel sugar 
 thrown lightly over the top. 
 
 CHERRIES LN BRANDY. Choose 
 the finest and rijjest cherries, leave on half 
 the stalks, and put them into very cold wa- 
 ter. In about half an hour take them out, 
 and drain them on a sieve; weigh them, 
 and to every pound of fruit, allow a quarter 
 of a pound of sugar ; when you have clarified 
 and boiled it to grand perle, put in the 
 fruit, boil theui up two oi three times, stir- 
 ring them gently wilii a skimuier; then take 
 them from the fire carefully, and put the 
 cherries into b')ttles or glass jars; when 
 filled, add to each twelve cloves and half an 
 ounce of cinnamon lied in a linen bag. Put 
 to the sugar, when ne-aily col I, brandy (in 
 the proportion of a pint and a half to a 
 pound of fruit); mix them together well, 
 and pour tht^m on the ch(,>rries. In two 
 months time taste them, an.) if sufhciently 
 flavored, take out the f'loves and cinnamon. 
 Cover the jars <jr bottles close. 
 
 CHERRIES, TO CANDY. The fruit 
 must be gathered before it is rijie; prick 
 and stone ihem; boil clarified sugar, and 
 pour it over them. 
 
 CHERRY ICE. Take the stones and 
 stalks from two pounds of ripe cherries, 
 bruise, and set them on the fire with a little 
 water, and half a |iound of sugar. When 
 they have boiled, pass them through a hair 
 sieve into an earthen pan. Pound a handful 
 of the kernels, put them in a basin with the 
 juice (»f two lemons. Adrl to the cherries a 
 puund of sugar au petit lisse, and strain on 
 them the lemon-juice and kernels; mix the 
 whole together, and put it in a sabotiere, 
 Avith pounded ice. Work the cherries up 
 with it well, until it has set, then place it in 
 glasses. 
 
 CHERRY ICE CREAM. Take half a 
 pound of preserved cherries, pound them, 
 stones and all; put them into a basin, with 
 one gill of sirup, the juice of a lemon, and a 
 pint of cream, pass it through a sieve, and 
 freeze it according to custom. 
 
 CHERRY MARMALADE. Choose 
 the ri|Te3t, largest, best red colored cherries, 
 you c^n meet with, and take of them double 
 tbe weight of tlie sugar you intend to use; 
 
 stone and tail; and then put them 6ri a 
 gentle fire, and keep stirring them till re- 
 duced to half. Clarify and boil your sugar 
 to petit casse, then add the fruit to it, and 
 stir it until you can see the bottom of the 
 pan ; the marmalade is then sufficiently done, 
 and may be put into jwts. 
 
 CHERRY MARCHPANE. Take three 
 pounds of sweet almonds, two and a half 
 of sugar, and a pound of cherries ; pound 
 the almonds to a paste, and mix it with the 
 sug-.ir, boiled to petit houle; then having 
 stoned, well bruised, and squeezed out the 
 juice of the cherries, add it to the rest, stir 
 it well, place it on hot ashes, stirring con- 
 stantly until the paste is properly done; 
 then finish it in the usual way, (See 
 Marchpank.) Stiawl)erries, raspber- 
 ries, currants, or any other fruit may be 
 used in the same way. 
 
 CHERRY RATAFIA. Crush ten 
 pounds of cherries, and |)ut them into a jar 
 with a quart of brandy ; cover the jar close, 
 and infuse the cherries for five or six days; 
 at the end of that time put the fruit into a 
 cloth, and press the juice out through. Boil 
 five pounds of fine currants, with three pounds 
 of sugar, and press out the juice as you did 
 that of the cherries; mix the two juices, 
 measure thfu, and for every pint allow a 
 pint of brandy. Add a pound of the kernels 
 of the cherry-stones, half a pound of corian- 
 der, a little mace, some cloves and cinna- 
 mon, all well poiuxled, put them into a jar, 
 and pour the litjurjr over them ; cover it 
 close and let it infuse for six weeks, after 
 which, pass the whole through a jelly-bag, 
 and bottle it; cork it carefully. 
 
 CHERRIES, SIRUP OF. The best 
 cherries for tliis purpose are the black sour 
 ones ; take out the stones and express die 
 juice into an earthen pan, where it must 
 stand in a cool place for twenty-four hours 
 to clear: at the end of that time poui' the 
 juice gently into a pan, and add to it, for 
 each pound of juice, two pounds of crushed 
 sugar, and two drachms of cinnamon, pre- 
 viously infused in a glass of water, wrap the 
 cinnamon in a piece of linen, and put it with 
 the wafer into your pan; boil all together 
 for half an hour, skimming it carefully. 
 When sufficiently done take out the cinna- 
 mon ; strain the sirup till quite clear, and 
 when cold bottle it. 
 
 CHESTNUTS IN CARAMEL. (1) 
 
 Roast chestnuts as for the table; take off 
 the skins ; dip each in the whites of eggs 
 beaten, and then roll them in powder-sugar; 
 lay then) separately on paper to cby, in a 
 moderate oven j tiiey may he cut into dif- 
 
CHE 
 
 271 
 
 CHO 
 
 ferent forms if you think proper, and glazed 
 either white or brown. 
 
 CHESTiVUTS IN CARAMEL. (2) 
 
 Cut some osier rods or reeds into pieces 
 about two or three inches long, and on the 
 point of each put a roasted and skinned 
 chestnut. Take a piece of very fresh but- 
 ter, (about tiie size of a nut), and rub it 
 with the palm of the hand, on an iron plate 
 or marble slab, taking care to rub every 
 part well. Then having boiled some clari- 
 fied sugar to caramel height; take a piece 
 of die osier, with a chestnut on the end, in 
 each hand, and dip them in the sugar, twist- 
 ing them round repeatedly, that the sugar 
 may adhere e(]!ially about the chestnut till 
 it l)egins to cool, then lay them on the but- 
 tered slab, and dip in two more, proceed- 
 ing as above; when all are done and cold, 
 take out the osier twigs, and wrap each 
 chestnut in pa])er, with a device if you 
 think proper. These chestnuts make a de- 
 licious sweetmeat, but they should be eaten 
 the day on which they are made. 
 
 CHESTNUT COMPOTE. (1) Take 
 the outer skin from about a hundred 
 chestnuts, and then put them into a sauce- 
 pan with water, a lemon cut in pieces, and 
 three hundfuls of bran ; put them on the fire 
 and blanch them: as soon as a pin will go 
 into tliem easily, they are sufficiently done ; 
 rub off the second skin, and throw them 
 into cold water, with the juice of a lemon. 
 Clarify and boil a pound and a half of sugar 
 to petit lisse, and having diained your 
 chestnuts, put them into the sugar with the 
 juice of a lemon, the quarter of a glass of 
 orange-flower water; put these on ihe fire 
 dr a short time, l)ut not to let them boil : 
 tlien take them off and set them by. The 
 next day drain the chestnuts, and boil up 
 the sirup four times ; then add more sugar, 
 and having boiled it to souffle, put in the 
 cliestnuts; blanch them instantly afterwards, 
 and put them into computiers. 
 
 CHESTNUT COMPOTE. (2) Roast 
 your chestnuts as for the dessert, and 
 when they are peeled and skinned, put them 
 into a saucepan, with a quarter of a pound 
 of sugar, and half a glass of water ; let 
 tliem simmer for a quarter of an hour; 
 squeeze in a little lemon-juice, and when 
 ready to serve, strew powder-sugar over 
 tliem. 
 
 CHESTNUT CREAM. (1) Pound 
 twenty-five roasted chestnuts in a mortar, 
 with a little milk ; then put (he paste so made 
 into a stewpan, with the yolks of two eggs, 
 half a pint of milk, two ounces of butter, and 
 four ounces of powder -sugar ; wlien it has 
 
 boiled a little while, strain it, put it into 
 a dish, or glass for table, and let it cool. 
 
 CHESTNUT CREAM. (2) Roast, and 
 then pound a quarter of a hundred of chest- 
 nuts, with a small quantity of milk ; to this 
 add the yolks of two eggs, a pint of milk^ 
 a (juarter of a pound of powder-sugar, and 
 about an ounce of butter. Boil these to- 
 gether for some minutes, then strain it, and 
 set it by to cool. 
 
 CHESTNUT CUSTARD. Take three 
 pounds of well roasted chestnuts, removing 
 such parts as were colored by the fire, and 
 pound them with a pound of fresh butter; 
 when a smooth paste, add three-tiuarters of 
 a pound of powder-sugar, the yolks of 
 twelve eggs, a pinch of salt, and a few 
 spoonfuls oj^ whipped cream, the whites 
 whipped firm, and finish the custard as di- 
 rected. 
 
 CHESTNUT PASTE. Make a mar- 
 malade by boiling chestnuts in water, and 
 rubbing them through a sieve, then pound 
 them, and to three-quarters of a pound of 
 this, add a quarter of a pound of any other 
 fruit marmalade; mix them well up with an 
 e(]ual weight of sugar boiled to grand 
 plume; put it into your moulds and bake it 
 as clierry, or any other paste. 
 
 CHINESE TEMPLE. Having boiled 
 an ounce of double-refined sugar, with half 
 an ounce of butter, and a little water, set it 
 by till colfi, and then add to it an egg well 
 beaten. With this, make four ounces of 
 flour into a very stiff paste ; roll it out as 
 thin as possible, and lay it in a set of tins 
 the form of a temple, and bake them in a 
 slow oven. When cold, take the paste 
 from the tins, and join each piece together 
 according to the proper forms, with isin- 
 glass and water. The lower part, of 
 course, ought to be stronger than the top, 
 in order that it may sustain the weight of 
 the whole. The pieces also must be cut 
 as exact as possible to the shape of tlie 
 tins. 
 
 CHOCOLATE ALMONDS. Take a 
 pound of chocolate finely grated, and a 
 pound and a half of the best sugar, finely 
 sifted ; soak some gum-dragon in orange- 
 flower water, and work them into what 
 form you please ; the paste must be stiff; 
 dry them in a stove. You, may write de- 
 vices on paper, roll them up, and put them 
 in the middle. 
 
 CHOCOLATE BONBONS. Put a 
 
 quarter of a pound of chocolate over a fire, 
 to dissolve it; and having boiled two pounds 
 
CHO 
 
 272 
 
 CHO 
 
 of sugar to forte perle, put a spoonful or 
 two into the chocolate; stir it till it forms a 
 thin paste, and then pour it on the sugar, 
 and boil both together to caramel. In the 
 meantime melt a little butter, skim, and 
 pour it off clear into a Irasin ; take a spoon- 
 ful of it, and rub it with your hand over a 
 marble slab or table: on this pour the choco- 
 late and sugar ; then take two ends of a 
 sword-blade, (one in each hand), and press 
 lines an inch apart all down it ; cross them 
 in like manner, so as to mark the sugar in 
 small s(]uares all over ; doing it as quick as 
 possible, lest the sugar should cool before 
 you have done ; then pass the sword -blade 
 between the marble and the sugar ; lay un- 
 der the latter sheets of paper ; and when 
 cold, break it into pieces according to the 
 marks, and wrap each square in paper. 
 
 CHOCOLATE COMFITS. Take two 
 ounces of chocolate, beat it small with a 
 little warm water over the fire ; when it is 
 dissolved and reduced to a paste, pour it 
 upon a pound of masse pain or sweet 
 paste, to which add some cinnamon or va- 
 nilla at discretion; mix the whole well to- 
 gether; then spread it over some wafer 
 shapes, and bake it in a moderate oven. 
 If the paste does not appear deep colored 
 enough, you may color it with bolus Ar- 
 menicum. 
 
 CHOCOLATE CONSERVE. (1) Dis- 
 solve' two oun(-es of good chocolate in a 
 little water, put it into a skillet with half a 
 pound of sugar boiled to perle ; keep the 
 sugar stirring, and when it boils put the 
 Conserve into moulds. 
 
 CHOCOLATE CONSERVE. (2) Dis- 
 
 solve a quarter of a pound of grated choco- 
 late in a small quantity of clarified sugar ; 
 boil a |K)und of sugar to the premiere 
 plume, put your chocolate into it, stirring 
 it well to mix it; serve it whilst it is warm. 
 
 CHOCOLATE DROPS. Take one 
 pound and a half of chocolate, put it on a 
 pewter sheet or plate, and put it in the 
 oven just to warm the chocolate ; then put 
 it into a copper stewpan, with three- 
 quarters of a pound of powdered sugar; 
 mix it well over the fire, take it off, and 
 roll it in pieces the size of small marbles, 
 put them on white paper, and when they 
 are all on, take the sheet of pap6r by each 
 corner, and lift it up and down so that the 
 paper may touch the table each time, and 
 by that means you will see the drops come 
 quite fat, about the size of a six|)ence ; put 
 some sugar nonpareils over them, ajid cover 
 all that are on the paper, tlien sliake them 
 off, and you will see all the chocolate drops 
 
 are covered with the sugar nonpareils; let 
 them stand till cold, and they will come ofT 
 well, and then put them in a box pajjered. 
 
 CHOCOLATE ICE CREAM. (1) 
 
 Take any quantity of chocolate, melt it over 
 tlie fire in a small pan ; when melted pour 
 it into that in which you are to make your 
 cieam; break your yolks of eggs into it, 
 (four eggs to every pint of cream) add some 
 pounded loaf sugar to it, keep stirring con- 
 tinually; then add your cream by little and 
 little, stirring and turning it till the whole 
 is mixed properly together; then set your 
 pan over the fire, and keep stirring with a 
 wooden spoon till you see your composition 
 is near boiling, tlien take it off immediate- 
 ly, for, from the moment you set your com- 
 position over the fire till that it offers to 
 lx)il, it has sufticient time to incorporate 
 well and thicken sufficiently, without need 
 of boiling; and should you let it boil, you 
 would risk the turning your cream into 
 whey, on account of the yrilks of eggs, which 
 would do too much. Take great care 
 likewise your cream is fresh and sweet, 
 for otherwise as soon as it is warm it will 
 turn to curds and whey ; therefore, be care- 
 ful, stir it continually, from the time you 
 set it on the fire till you take it off; then 
 put it in the sabotiere to make it congeal 
 after the usual manner. 
 
 CHOCOLATE ICE CREAM. (2) 
 
 Dissolve the chocolate in a little water on 
 a slow fire; when properly done, mix it 
 with a pint of cream, three yolks of new 
 laid eggs, and alx)ut half a pound of sugar. 
 
 CHOCOLATE ICE WATER. Take 
 three oimces of chocolate, warm it, and 
 mix with it half a gill of sirup, and half a 
 pint of water; mix it well, and freeze it 
 thick. 
 
 CHOCOLATE MACAROONS. Put 
 
 a quarter of a jiound of chocolate on a tin- 
 plate over a coal fire, and when it is dis- 
 solved pour it on a plate; put to it a spoon- 
 ful or two a( sweet almond paste, made as 
 for macaroons, stir it in well, and then pour 
 it upon the remainder of the almond paste, 
 in which you have mixed a tea-spoonful of 
 powdered cinnamon or vanilla, or both: 
 beat tliem together well in a mortar, lay 
 them on paper, and bake tliem for three- 
 quarters of an hour in a moderate oven. 
 
 CHOCOLATE PARFAIT AMOUR. 
 
 For four bottles of brandy, take one pound 
 of the best chocolate, cut in small bits; a 
 little salt, two cloves, and a little cinna- 
 mon ; you must infuse all in the brandy, with 
 two bottles and half a pint of water, with 
 
CIN 
 
 273 
 
 CIN 
 
 whites of eggs, and filter it through the pa- 
 per. You must be careful not to take more 
 than two bottles from every four, except 
 from the cinnamon, from which you are to 
 take as much as you can get. 
 
 CHOCOLATE PASTILS. Take a 
 little chocolate, which put in a pan over the 
 fire to melt it; stir it with a spoon; when 
 it is melted, take half a pound of loaf su- 
 gar, pounded in a mortar and sifted, which 
 dissolve in a little clear water. When that 
 is done, put in your chocolate ; if you find 
 the paste too thick, add a little water, 
 enough to bring it to that degree of liquidity 
 that you may take it up on a knife; then 
 take half a sheet of piiper, and cover it with 
 little round and flat drops, which we call 
 pastils, of the size of a sixpence ; let them 
 diy naturally in a cupboard ; and when dry, 
 take them off from the paper, and put tliem 
 in boxes. 
 
 CHOCOLATE PASTIL PASTE. 
 
 Melt half an ounce of gum-dragon in a little 
 water till it is quite dissolved and thick; 
 sift it through a linen cloth, pound it in a 
 mortar with a quarter-pait of whites of 
 eggs, a chocolate cake bruised, and half a 
 pound of fine powder-sugar, mixed by de- 
 grees, and adding either more or less sugar, 
 according as the paste is malleable ; it must 
 be pretty firm ; form it into what flowers or 
 designs you please, as shells, lozenges, any 
 kind of corn or beans, &c. 
 
 CHOCOLATE PETIT PAINS. These 
 are made in the same w-ay as Petits Pains 
 a la Duchesse (see that article), but with- 
 out the dorure. When cold fill them with 
 a cream patissiere, mixed with two ounces 
 of vanilla chocolate, and sweetened with 
 sugar, flavored with vanilla ; then put three 
 ounces of sifted sugar, the same of choco- 
 late, and half the white of an egg into a 
 pan; stir these ingredients with a silver 
 spoon until yon have a smooth transparent 
 glaze, with which mask the top and sides 
 of the petits pains, spreading it equally 
 with the blade of a knife. 
 
 CHOCOLATE SWEETMEATS. 
 
 Take two ounces of chocolate, and break it 
 into a little warm water, put it on the fire, 
 and when quite dissolved, mix it with a 
 pound of marchpane paste, to which may be 
 added vanilla or cinnamon ; stir it up well, 
 and then spread it on wafer-pa|)er in what 
 forms you please, and bake them in a mod- 
 erate oven. If the sweetmeats be not suffi- 
 ciently dark colored, add a little bol-ammo- 
 
 CINNAMON CAKES. Whisk 
 
 up 
 
 half a dozen eggs with three table-sponnfiik 
 of rose water ; add to it a pound of sifted 
 sugar, a dessert-spoonful of powdered ciima- 
 mon, and a sufficient quantity of. flour to 
 make it into a paste; roll it ouf thin, and 
 cut it into whatever forms your fancy may 
 dictate, place them on paper, and bake 
 them. When done, remove them from the 
 paper. Keep tliem dry. 
 
 CINNAMON CANDIED. (1) Soak cin- 
 namon in water for four and twenty hours, 
 and then cut it into pieces about an inch 
 long ; prepare some sugar to grand lissiy 
 and give the cinnamon a boil in it; drain 
 and dry it in a stove to the proper consis- 
 tence; then put it in the moulds with sugar 
 boiled to souffle, and when half cold, dry 
 it. Before the candy is removed from the 
 moulds, they should be laid on one side for 
 some time. Keep them in paper in a dry 
 place. 
 
 CINNAMON CANDIED. (2) Cut 
 
 some cinnamon into small sticks of about an 
 inch or an inch and a half long; then put 
 them into thin sugar, and boil them as it 
 were in a sirup. Then take off the pan, 
 and set it by for five or six hours fo soak, 
 take them out and lay them on a wire-grate, 
 dry them thoroughly in the stove; after- 
 wards ptit them in order in tin moulds 
 upon little grates made for the purpose, and 
 set into the moulds, so that there may bo 
 three rows set one above another, separated 
 by those grates. In the meantime, boil su-» 
 gar till it is blown, and pour it into your 
 mould, so that some of it may lie upon the 
 uppermost grate; then set them in the stove 
 with a covered fire, and let them stand alj 
 night ; the next morning take notice whether 
 Uie cinnamon be well coagulated ; turn the 
 mould upside down, and set it in the stove 
 again, with a plate underneath; and when it 
 is thoroughly drained, take out your sticks 
 of cinnamon, loosening them, by little and 
 little, gently; then lay them upon a sieve, 
 set in the stove, and dry them thoroughly. 
 
 CINNAMON, CONSERVE OF, 
 
 Bruise four drachms of cinnamon, dilute it 
 with a little clarified sugar, or sirup of mal- 
 lows; boil two pounds of sugar to petit 
 cass6, throw in the cinnamon, stir it well, 
 and then take it from the fire, and when the 
 sugar begins to whiten", pour the conserve 
 into cases or moulds, and dry it as usual, 
 
 CINNAMON, DRAGEES OR SU- 
 GARED. Soak a quarter of a pound of 
 the best cinnamon in sticks, for twelve hours 
 in water to soften it ; at the end of that time, 
 cut it into slips, lay them on a sieve in a 
 warm place for some days. When quite 
 
CIN 
 
 274 
 
 CIT 
 
 hard anrl diy, boil some fine sugar to the 
 degree grand per le; have ready a quantity 
 of fine powder, and proceed in the same 
 manner as in doing Almond Dragees, 
 until the 6innamon slicks are of the proper 
 tliicknesri; tliose which are to be twisted or 
 curled, sliould not be so thick as the others. 
 Be equally particular in removing the sugar, 
 that cakes on the bottom of the pan, as in 
 making Almond Dragees. 
 
 CINNAMON DRAGEES, COMMON. 
 
 Infuse a quarter of a pound of gum-dragon, 
 in as much water as will cover it; the next 
 day put the infusion into a mortar, and stir 
 it well with a pestle, and tl)e longer it is 
 stirred the whiter it becomes ; in ratlier 
 more than a quarter of an hour, add to it 
 the caked sjigar which was removed from 
 U>e pr&serving-pan, and which must be well 
 pounded and sifted, also a |x)und of powder- 
 sugar, a spoonful of cinnamon powder, and 
 by degrees two or three pounds of flour; 
 moisten the whole occasionally with water ; 
 when the paste is of a proper consistence, 
 place it on the slab or pasteboard, knead it 
 well for a short time, roll it out in sheets, 
 not thicker than the eighth of an inch, and 
 then cut it into slips of the same size as the 
 cinnamon (see above,) put them on paper 
 or a sieve in a warm place for some days. 
 Then boil some connnon sugar to perle, 
 and sugar the slips of paste as above direct- 
 ed; instead of the fine powder, flour is suffi- 
 cient, until the last two layers, when the 
 powder may be used to give them whiteness. 
 When of the requisite size, lay them on 
 sieves to dry. In a few days theie may be 
 curled, and colored, which is done in the 
 eame manner as coriander seeds. Observe, 
 fine sugared cinnamon is always white. 
 
 CINNAMON, ESSENCE OF. This 
 is made by infusing oil of cinnamon in 
 highly rectified spirits of wine, in the pro- 
 portion of half a drachm of the former to an 
 ounce of the latter. 
 
 CINNAMON PASTILS. Dissolre 
 half an ounce of gum-dragon in a glass of 
 water, and strain it through a lawn sieve 
 into a mortar, and add to it a tea-spoonful 
 of powdered cinnamon, and a sufficient 
 quantity of sifted sugar to make the paste of 
 a proper consistence ; form into such figures 
 as you may fancy, and dry them in a stove. 
 Keep them in a dry place. 
 
 CINNAMON SWEETMEATS. Take 
 a pound of marchpane {wiste, and dilute 
 it with as many whites of eggs ai will 
 make it spread easily with a knife; add to 
 this, a spoonful or two of prepared bole-am- 
 moniac, which will give it a fine red tinge, 
 
 and half an ounce of cinnamon-powder. 
 When all these ingredients are well mixed, 
 cut some wafer-paper into such forms as you 
 may think proper, and Iq^ on them tlie paste 
 about the thickness of the eighth of an inch ; 
 place tliem on paper, and bake them in a 
 moderate oven. When done, they may be 
 finished in the following manner: — Boil 
 some sugar in orange-flower water, to la 
 plume, and as you take the sweetmeats from 
 the oven; dip a Jiair-pencil into the sirup, 
 and brush them over; this dries almost im- 
 mediately, and considerably improves the 
 look of them. 
 
 CINNAMON WAFERS. Pound and 
 sift six ounces of sugar, and put it with an 
 equal quantity of melted fresh butter, the 
 same of flour, half an ounce of powdered 
 cinnamon, and a small egg; stir these up in 
 an earthenware vessel, with a sufficient 
 quantity of milk to make it into a thin, but 
 not too clear, paste. Make an iron plate 
 quite hot, rub it well with butler, then lay 
 on it a spoonful of the paste; fry it, and 
 when brown on both sides, roll it, still over 
 the hot iron, round a small stick ; do this 
 until all the paste is used. 
 
 CINNAMONUM. Take a quarter of 
 a pound of cinnamon, two drachms of mace, 
 and one ounce of stick-liquorice; bruise 
 them well, and then put them into three 
 quarts of the best brandy; let the infusion 
 stand for some days before you distil it; 
 dissolve four pounds of sugar in three pints 
 and a half of water; mix this sirup with tlie 
 liqueur, and then strain tliem. This is 
 sometimes called Oil of Cinnamon. 
 
 CITRON, CANDIED. Pare the citrons 
 very thin and narrow, and throw them into 
 water; these are called faggots; then cut 
 the citron into slices of any thickness you 
 think proper ; take out the inner part with 
 great care, so as to leave only the white 
 ring, and put them with the faggots into 
 boiling water; when tender, drain them. 
 Boil a sufficient quantity of clarified sugar 
 to souffle; then put in the rings, and boil 
 them together. Take it from the fire, and 
 when a little cool, rub the sugar against the 
 side of the pre-erving-pan widi the back of 
 a spoon; as soon as it becomes white, take 
 out the rings with a fork very carefully, one 
 by one, and lay them on a wire-grate to 
 drain: boil and proceed with the faggots in 
 a similar way; when taken out, cut them 
 into proper lengths with a pair of scissors, 
 and lay them also on the wire to drain. 
 
 CITRON PASTE. Cut off the ends 
 of the citrons, take out the middle, with all 
 the seeds; boil them in some water; and 
 
CIT 
 
 275 
 
 COF 
 
 when quite tender, take them from the fire, 
 and throw them into cold water a moment; 
 then, having pressed them in a cloth to get 
 the water out, pound and sift them. To 
 evepy quarter of a pound of this marmalade 
 put half a pound of clarified sug-.ir; simmer 
 them together, stirring constantly until well 
 mixed ; then put them into moulds, and place 
 them in a stove to dry. 
 
 CITRON WHITE PRESERVED. 
 
 Lay some white citrons, cut into pieces, in 
 salt and water for four or five hours; then, 
 having washed them in cold water, boil 
 them; when tender, drain, and lay them 
 into as much clarified sugar as will cover 
 them. The next day drain off" the sirup, 
 and boil it; when quite smooth and cold, 
 pour it on the citrons; let them stand twen- 
 ty-four hours; then boil the sirup again, 
 and put in the citrons. The third day, 
 boil both together, and put them into moulds 
 to candy. 
 
 CITRON PRESERVED LIQUID. 
 
 Cut a slit in the sides of some small citrons, 
 so that the inside may take the sugar as 
 well as the outside, and put them over the 
 fire in some water; whenever they are near 
 boiling, put cold water to them. As soon 
 as the citrons rise to the top, take tliem out, 
 and throw them into cold water. They 
 must then be put on the fire again, in the 
 same water, and boiled gently until tender; 
 then take them out, and pat them in cold 
 water. After this, boil them seven or eight 
 times in clarified sugar; pour the whole 
 into an earthen pan, and let it stand. The 
 next day drain die fruit, and boil up the 
 sirup twenty or thirty times; add a little 
 more sugar, and pour it over the citrons; 
 do this for three successive days, increasing 
 the degree to which you boil the sugar daily, 
 so that at the last boiling the degree may 
 be au perle. The fruit may then be put 
 into pots. 
 
 To preserve them dry, they must be done 
 exactly the same; only, instead of putting 
 the fruit into pots, they should be dried on 
 sieves in a stove. With the remaining su- 
 gar the citrons may be glazed. 
 
 CITRON RATAFIA. Pare seven or 
 eight citrons very thin; cut the peel into 
 small pieces, and put them into a jar, with 
 three pints of brandy, and let them infuse 
 for three weeks ; then add to this a pound 
 of sugar, boiled in half a pint of water, and 
 well skimmed ; let it stand twelve or fifteen 
 days longer, when it may be botded. 
 
 CITRON, SIRUP OF. (1) Put into 
 a china bowl alternate layers of fine powder- 
 eugar, and citron, pared, and cut in very 
 
 thin slices, and let them stand till the next 
 day; tlien stram oflf the sirup, and clarify it 
 ovei' a gentle fire. 
 
 CITRON, SIRUP OF. (2) Put the 
 rinds of three citrons into an earthen ves- 
 sel, and strain on them the juice; to this 
 put a little water; pour the mixture into a 
 basin in which is four pounds of clarified 
 sugar, boiled to fort boulet. Place this 
 basin in a large saucepan, half filled with 
 water, over the fire ; stir the contents of 
 the basin frequently; and wiien the sugar is 
 entirely dissolved, and the sirup quite clear, 
 take the saucepan from the fire, and let it 
 cool. As soon as it is cold it may be bot- 
 tled. 
 
 CITRONNELLE RATAFIA. For 
 
 two quarts of the best brandy, take the 
 zestes or rinds of a dozen fine sound lem- 
 ons, two drachms of bruised cinnamon, an 
 ounce of coriander, and two pounds of su- 
 gar, dissolved in a pint and a half of water; 
 infuse the whole for a month, then strain 
 and bottle it. 
 
 CLOVES, OIL OF. This is made in 
 the same manner as cinnamonum ; the quanti- 
 ties are, an ounce of cloves to three quarts 
 of brandy, and four pounds of sugar dis- 
 solved in four pints of water. 
 
 CLOVE PASTILS. Are made like 
 those of cinnamon. The proportions are 
 six cloves to half an ounce of gum-dragon. 
 
 CLOVES, SIRUP OF. Put a quarter 
 of a pound of cloves, and a quart of boiling 
 water into a stewpan, cover it close, and 
 boil them gently for half an hour; drain the 
 cloves, and to a pint of the liquor put two 
 pounds of sugar ; beat up two eggs in a little 
 cold water, add them to the above, and sim- 
 mer the whole till it becomes a strong sirup. 
 When cold, bottle it. 
 
 COFFEE BONBONS. Take about a 
 pint of coflfee made wiUi water; put in it a 
 pound of loaf-sugar ; set it on the fire and 
 boil it to a high degree ; then add a full pint 
 of double cream, and let it boil again, keep- 
 ing continually stirring till it comes to cara- 
 mel height; to know when it is come, to 
 that point, you must have a basin of water 
 by you; dip your finger in it, and put it 
 quickly in your sugar, then in the water 
 again, to remove the sugar, which will have 
 stuck to it ; take a bit of it in your teeth ; 
 if it is hard in its crackling, take it off, it 
 is sufficiently done ; pour it upon a tin plate, 
 which must be rubbed before with a little 
 butter, or it will stick to the plate; then 
 spread it with a rolling pin ; (observe, the 
 
CON 
 
 276 
 
 CRE 
 
 rolling pin must likewise be rubbed with 
 butter, for fear it should stick ; ) when it is 
 warm, you may cut it into little scpiares, lo- 
 zenges, or any other shaped pastilles, and 
 draw a few strokes over them with a knife. 
 
 COFFEE CONSERVES. Clarify and 
 boil to the first degree a pound of sugar ; 
 take the sugar off the fire, and put into it 
 one cup of coffee ; stir it about until it conies 
 to the sixtli degree, that the conserve may 
 take the sugar and dry. 
 
 COFFEE EGGS. Make some good 
 strong coffee; let it rest to clear as usual, 
 and sweeten it with sugar according to dis- 
 cretion; teat up six yolks of eggs, with 
 about four cups of coffee, and sift it; pour 
 this into little moulds in the form of eggs, or 
 of any other, (do not fill them quite,) and 
 bake in a mild oven, or a Dutch one, or 
 with a brazing-pan; cover between two 
 fires. They are made after this manner, in 
 tlie shape of any fruits or birds, if you have 
 proper moulds, eitlier of copper or china, 
 &c. 
 
 COLTSFOOT, SIRUP OF. Take of 
 coltsfoot six ounces, maidenhair two ounces, 
 hyssop.one ounce, li(juorice-root one ounce; 
 boil ihem in two quarts of spring water till 
 one fourth is consumed ; then strain it, and 
 put to the liquor two pounds of fine povvdei- 
 Bugar; clarify it with the whites of eggs, 
 and boil it till it is nearly as thick as 
 honey. 
 
 CONSERVES, DRIED. For all sorts 
 of conserves, the sugar should be prepared 
 to the ninth degree, according to the quan- 
 tity wanted ; they are all made much after 
 tlie same manner, the oidy difference l)eing 
 in the quantity of fruits pro|x>sed. Con- 
 serves are made with all sorts of sweetmeat 
 marmalade, sifted in a sieve, and soaked 
 pretty dry over a slow fire ; use about half 
 a pound of the sugar tlius prepared, to a 
 quarter of a pound of sweetmeat marmalade; 
 take the sugar off the fire to work them 
 well together; warm the whole for a mo- 
 ment, and pour it into paper cases made for 
 the purpose; when it is cool it may be cut 
 into cakes of what size you please. 
 
 CONSERVE OF FOUR FRUITS. 
 Take strawberries, currants, clierries, and 
 raspberries, of each a quarter of a pound, 
 and three pounds of sugar. Bruise your 
 fruit, and having strained off the juice, put 
 it in a saucepan over a gentle fire, stirring 
 it till reduced to half. Dissolve the sugar, 
 fikim, and boil it to casae; take it from the 
 fii'e while you put in the juice, then put it 
 oa again, and give it one boil, take it off, 
 
 and keep stirring till the sugar bubbles, when 
 the conserve may be poured into moulds. 
 
 CONSERVES, HARD IN MOULDS. 
 
 These are made in the same manner aa 
 other conserves, except that they are com- 
 posed of sugar, and distilled aromatic wa- 
 ter ; and may be colored like pastils. 
 
 CORIANDER DRAGEES. Take any 
 quantity of coriander seeds, put them in the 
 tossing-pan over the fire, and let them warm; 
 when they are warm throw in about half a 
 glass of vinegar, stir theui well till they are 
 dry; have clarified sugar, vvliioh boil in an- 
 other pan ; then when the corianders are 
 dry, add a little gum to them, and do the 
 same again till they are dry, and continue 
 so doing till you see the coriandei"s are cov- 
 ered to the size you want to have them; 
 when that is done, take the corianders out 
 from the pan, wash them woll, and put them 
 in again, and stir them well till they are all 
 warm ; then take your clarified sugar, which 
 you have previoui^ly boiled to the first de- 
 gree; when this is. done, put it in an instru- 
 ment of copper, made on fjurpose for the 
 operation, and at the bottom of which there 
 is a little hole; hang it up by a packthread 
 string, that the sugar njay fall from about a 
 yard height into the pan where tlie corian- 
 ders are ; while the sugar falls into your pan 
 keep stirring well your drage.es till you see 
 they are well jjeailed over, or rough and 
 grainy ; when they are sufficiently so, take 
 them out, and place tliem in the stove to 
 finish drying. 
 
 CORIANDER SUGARED. These 
 seeds are sugared in the same manner as 
 sugared almonds. 
 
 CREAM, BAIN-MARIE. Mix up 
 
 whatever ingredient of which the cream 
 is to be made, with eggs and sugar ; for the 
 proportions, see the respective articles; 
 strain them through a fine sieve, and pour 
 the preparation into a mould lightly buttered 
 witliin side. Put this mould into a large 
 saucepan, with a sufficient quantity of boil- 
 ing water to reach within an inch of the 
 mould ; place the saucepan on hot ashes, 
 cover it, and place hot coals on the lid; 
 renew the fire underneath occasionally, so 
 as to keep the water at the same tempera- 
 ture, that is, nearly, but never quite, boil- 
 ing for an hour and a half; then, if the 
 cream is properly set, which may be known 
 by touching it with your finger, and observ- 
 ing wheUier it may be easily detached from 
 the mould, take it from the bain-marie and 
 let it stand; when no more than lukewarm, 
 turn it out on your dish. 
 
 It sometimes happens, unavoidably, that 
 
CRE 
 
 277 
 
 CRO 
 
 bubbles arise on the surface of the cream ; 
 in such a case, boil a glass of cream, and 
 add to it, by degrees, three yolks of eggs; 
 stir it constantly with a wooden spoon ; mix 
 three ounces of fine sugar with it, and con- 
 tinue stirring it over the fire, till of a proper 
 consistence, and on tlie point of boiling, 
 then take it off and strain it. Wiien the 
 cream is ready for table, cover it complete- 
 ly witli the last made cream, which will 
 hide its defects. 
 
 CREAM BISCUITS. Break six eggs, 
 separate the yolks and whites, beat the 
 former with six ounces of powder-sugar, 
 and the same of flour ; whisk the whites, 
 and then mix them together ; add to it 
 whipped cream, in proportion to the sugar 
 and flour, stir it carefully, pour this into 
 moulds or paper cases, and bake. 
 
 CREAM CARAMEL. Put a pint of 
 milk and half a pint of cream, with a bit 
 of cinnamon, some coriander-seeds, and 
 the peel of a young lemon, into a saucepan, 
 and boil them for a quarter of an hour; 
 then take it ofif the fire ; and lx>il a quarter 
 of a pound of sugar with half a glass of wa- 
 ter, until it becomes of a nice dark color; 
 take it off" the fire, and mix with the cream ; 
 then put it on the fire again, until the sugar 
 and cream are well mixed together; then 
 place a saucepan, with some hot water in 
 it, over hot ashes ; take a dish, in which 
 you intend serving, and pour into it your 
 cream, then place it in the saucepan ; put 
 on the lid of the saucepan, with fire ai)ove, 
 and let it boil till the cream is set. Serve 
 hot. 
 
 CREAM, SNOW. Put to a quart of 
 cream the whites of three eggs well l)eaten, 
 four spoonfuls of sweet wine, sugar to your 
 taste, and a bit of lemon-peel ; whip it to a 
 froth; remove die peel, and serve in a dish. 
 
 CREAM OF ANY PRESERVED 
 FRUIT. Take half a pound of the pulp 
 of any preserved fruit, put it in a large pan, 
 put to it the whites of two or three eggs, beat 
 together well for an hour; lake it off with 
 a spoon, and lay it heaped on a dish, or 
 glass salver, with other creams, or put it 
 in the middle of a basin. Raspberries will 
 not do this way. 
 
 CREAM RHENISH. Put over the 
 fire a pint of Rhenish wine, a stick of cin- 
 namon, and half a pound of sugar; while 
 this is boiling, take seven yolks and whites 
 of eggs, beat them well together with a 
 whisk, till your wine is half driven in them, 
 and your eggs to a sirup; strike it very ffist 
 witli the vvhisk> till it comes to such thick- 
 24 
 
 ness that you may lift it on the point of a 
 knife, but be sure not to let it curdle; add 
 to it the juice of a lemon, and orange-flower 
 water; pour it into your dish; garnish it 
 with citron, sugar, or biscuit, and serve. 
 
 CREAM, ROYAL ICES. Take any 
 
 quantity of cream, add to it yolks of eggs in 
 proportion (that is, four yolks of eggs to 
 every pint of cream) put a little half pound- 
 ed coriander, cinnamon, orange or lemon- 
 peel; add some pounded lump sugar, and 
 set it on the fire till it nearly boils; then 
 pass it through a sieve, and put it to ice. 
 
 CREAM, WHITE SHERBET. Put 
 
 the yolks of six eggs, and a dessert spoon- 
 ful of orange-flower water or crisped orange 
 flowers in powder, into two quarts of cream, 
 and boil it up once in a covered saucepan ; 
 then pass it through a sieve, add to it tliree- 
 quarters of a pound of powder-sugar, and 
 as soon as it is peifectly dissolved, pour the 
 whole into a sorbetiere, which place in an 
 ice pail, and proceed to cool it as directed. 
 See Sherbet. 
 
 CREAM SNOW. Mix a quart of 
 cream with the whites of six eggs, sweeten 
 it with sugar and rose water, and strain 
 them; then beat up the cream with a bundle 
 of reeds tied together, or with a whisk; 
 and as the snow rises take it up with a 
 spoon in the cullender, that the liquid part 
 may run out: when you have taken off as 
 much of the snow as you please, boil the 
 rest of the cream, with a stick of cinnamon, 
 some cloves, and a little bruised ginger; 
 boil it till it is thick; strain it, and when 
 it is cold, put it into a dish, and lay your 
 snow upon it. 
 
 CREAM, CARAMEL WHIPPED. 
 
 Boil six ounces of sugar to caramel, and 
 when it has acquired the proper reddish, 
 yellow tinge, dissolve it in half a glass 
 of boiling water, over hot ashes; after 
 which, it must be reduced to a rather thick 
 sirup. When cold, mix it with the whip- 
 ped cream in the usual way. See Wkip" 
 ped Cream. 
 
 CROQUETTES OF DESTREES. 
 
 Use the best puff paste; roll it pretty thin, 
 and cut it into different shapes, as fancy 
 leads; bake it, and dress each piece upon 
 a dish, in a handsome manner; rub them 
 with a little caramel, to make them stick 
 as you place them ; dien put some currant 
 jelly all over the top, and make what flow- 
 er or design you please, with nonpareils of 
 different colors, round it. 
 
 CROQUETTES OF PARIS. Take 
 
CUR 
 
 ^7S 
 
 CUR 
 
 a stick of vanilla, pound it with two 
 ounces of sugar, and sift both through a 
 silk sieVe; mix it with seven ounces of 
 sugar, well dried and pounded, and half 
 a pound of fine sifted flour ; then stir in the 
 whites of four eggs, whipped firm, and 
 work tlie whole together for some minutes. 
 
 Heat two large haking-plales of copper, 
 rub tliemover lightly with virgin wax; when 
 tliey are cold, take a spoonful of the prepa- 
 ration, and lay it on the plate the same as 
 the spoon-biscuitP, taking care to lay them 
 three-quarters of an inch apart ; when both 
 plates are full, place them on stools, in the 
 oven or stove; close the top, and lay embers 
 over it, so that the croquettes may lie as far 
 removed from the fire as possible ; let them 
 remain in this state all night; the next 
 moming put them into a moderate oven, and 
 bake them 'fifteen or twenty minutes; they 
 should then quit the plate easily, and be of 
 a clear reddish color; remove them from 
 the plates whilst hot. The croquettes 
 may be flavored according to your fancy. 
 
 CURACAO. This is a species of bitter 
 ©r wild orange, of which the rind is dried, 
 and may be had at the druggists. To make 
 the liqueur called by this name, wash a 
 pound of curacao several times in warm 
 water; then, having well drained, put them 
 into a vessel with four quarts of brandy, and 
 one of water; let it stand closely covered 
 for a fortnight, shaking it frequently; distil 
 it after that in the usual way, and drain the 
 curacao on a sieve. Sweeten it with five 
 pounds and a half of sugar, dissolved in 
 three pints of water, mix it with the spirit 
 and then filter it. 
 
 CURDS AND WHEY. Take a num- 
 ber of the rough coats that line tlie gizzards 
 of turkeys and fowls; clean them from the 
 pebbles they contain, rub them well with 
 scalt, and hang them to dry. This makes a 
 more tender and delicate curd than common 
 rennet. When to l^e used, break off some 
 bits of the skin, and put on it some boiling 
 water; in eight or nine hours use the liquor 
 as you do other rennet. 
 
 CURRANT CAKES. Pick and wash 
 tlyj currants, either white or red ; to two 
 quarts of currants, put one pint of water; 
 when boiled, run the juice through a jelly 
 bag, do not press the bag; to one quart of 
 juice put three pounds of sugar; boil up the 
 juice, and strew in the sugar; pour it into 
 glasses, dry it in a stove till it will turn out, 
 then dry the cakes on plates. 
 
 CURRANTS, CONSERVE OF. 
 
 Take tl>e seeds fiom two pounds of red cur- 
 rants, and put them on the fire in a silver 
 
 pan, to dry them; then press them through 
 a sieve, and put them again on the fire, stir- 
 ring constantly until you can see the bottom 
 of the pan; then, having dissolved and boil- 
 ed three pounds of sugar to casse, pour it on 
 the fruit, stirring continually; in a short 
 time take it ofl^, stirring it as before until it 
 bubbles ; then pour it into moulds. 
 
 CURRANT ICES. (1) Boil two pounds 
 of red currants a moment with a quarter of 
 a pound of raspberries; rub them through a 
 sieve, adding a pint of water, and then the 
 sugar, which must be very well dissolved 
 before icing. 
 
 CURRANT ICES. (2) Pick some cur- 
 rants from their stalks, and squeeze them 
 through a sieve; then take clarified sugar, 
 boil it to a very high degree, add it to your 
 currant juice, and, if you choose, squeeze in 
 the juice of four lemons, it will make it 
 more mellow; strain them through the sieve 
 a second time, put them in the icing pot, and 
 finish the same as all other ices. 
 
 CURRANT ICE CREAM. Take one 
 large spoonfiil and a half of currant jelly, 
 put it into a basin, with half a gill of sirup, 
 squeeze in one lemon and a half; add a pint 
 of cream and a little cochineal, then pass it 
 through a sieve, and freeze it according to 
 custom. 
 
 CURRANT WATER ICE. Take a 
 large spoonful and a half of currant jelly, put 
 it into a basin, and add to it the juice of 
 two lemons, half a gill of sirup, and a pint 
 of water: then freeze it rich. 
 
 CURRANT JELLY FRAMBOISEE. 
 
 Take seven pounds of fine ripe red currants, 
 three of white, and two of white raspber- 
 ries, press them through a very close horse- 
 hair sieve; pour the juice on nine pounds 
 of double-refined sugar, broken in small 
 pieces, place the whole on a brisk fire, tak- 
 ing care to remove the scum as soon as it 
 appears. When the boilings follow each 
 other very quickly, take out the skimmer, 
 (which should be of copper) stir it, and let 
 the jelly lall from it; on quitting the skim- 
 mer it ought to fall like treacle. If it does 
 so, it is sufficiently done. This jelly should 
 be rose-ool(jred ; by making it entirely of 
 red curnints and red rasplierries, the color 
 of the jelly will l)e red. 
 
 CURRANT PASTE. Pick and take 
 the seeds fiom ten pounds of fine red cur- 
 rants, crush them, and having pressed out 
 the juice, strain it through a silk sieve. 
 Clarity and boil to casse an equal quantity 
 of sugar, pour the currant juice on it, set the 
 
DRA 
 
 279 
 
 DRA 
 
 whole over a gentle fire, stirring constantly 
 until it becomes of a proper consistence, 
 which may be known by observing when the 
 bottom of tlie pan can be seen clearly ; take 
 it off from the fire as soon as that is the 
 case, and pour the paste into tin moulds, 
 which must be placed on slates, or copper 
 plates: smooth the tops with the blade of a 
 knife, sprinkle sifted sugar over, and place 
 tliem in a stove, where they must remain till 
 next day ; when the paste should be turned 
 in the moulds; sprinkle sifted sugar over 
 them again, and set them in the stove a 
 second night; on the following day remove 
 them from the moulds, lay it in boxes, with 
 white paper between each layer, and keep 
 them in a dry place. A sixth part of the 
 quantity of raspberries added to the currants, 
 would greatly improve the flavor of this 
 paste. 
 
 CURRANT PASTILS. Take half a 
 pound of pounded loaf sugar on a plate, then 
 a quantity of curranLs, which squeeze through 
 a sieve ; when that is done, add the juice to 
 the sugar, till it makes a paste as clear and 
 thick as you think proper. 
 
 CURRANT SHRUB. To five pints of 
 Currant juice, either red or white, one pound 
 and a half of loaf sugar; when dissolved, 
 put to it one gallon of rum or brandy ; clear 
 It tlirough a flannel bag. 
 
 CURRANT SIRUP. Put five or six 
 pounds of red, two of white currants, and 
 two bottles of raspberries, into a sieve ; crush 
 them, and press the juice through it into a 
 pan, and place it in a cellar to ferment; in a 
 week's lime, pass the juice through a strain- 
 ing bag, and having clarified, and boijed to 
 fort souffle four pounds of sugar, put the 
 juice to it, and boil them togelher once; 
 skim, and take it from the fire. It is ne- 
 cessary that the currant juice should ferment, 
 to prevent its becoming a jelly in the bottles. 
 
 D. 
 
 DRAGEES, COMMON. The paste for 
 these dragees is made in the same manner 
 as for the better sort, but the materials differ 
 a little: thus to a quarter of a pound of the 
 gum, take' either equal quantities of sugar 
 and powder, or one-third of the former to 
 two-thirds of the latter. When these and 
 tlie gum are well mixed, roll out the paste 
 until it is as thin as the back of a knife- 
 blade; then take a paste-cutter, shaped like 
 a sugar-loaf, with the top taken oft", with the 
 largest end of which, cut as many pieces of 
 the paste as will about two-tliirds fill the 
 
 cutter ; press these through the smaller end 
 into paper cases ; set them in a warm place 
 for several days. These kind of dragees 
 may, if liked, be sugared in the same man- 
 ner as almonds. 
 
 DRAGEES EN PASTILLAGE. These 
 dragees are made of the same materials as 
 the superfine dragees; the only difference 
 consists in their forms, which resemble the 
 bonbons: to make them, it is necessary to 
 have a number of wooden moulds, (pear- 
 tree wood is the best), on which must be 
 stamped small squares, with various devices 
 engraved on them. Cut your paste into 
 small pieces ; press each piece on a mould ; 
 take off all the super-abundant paste ; then 
 dip your finger in water, and with it remove 
 the paste from the mould ; dry them in cases 
 like the other dragees. 
 
 DRAGEES, SUPERFINE. Put a 
 
 quarter of a pound of the best gum-dragon 
 into a pan, with a pint of cold water, cover, 
 and let it stand for twenty-four hours; then 
 take a strong close cloth, about two feet 
 long, and put a part of your gum into it; 
 fold it three times, so as to envelope the gum; 
 then wring the cloth, by which means the 
 purest gum will be forced through; scrape 
 it off carefidly with a knife, and then proceed 
 in the same way, until all the gum be strain- 
 ed ; put it into a marble mortar, and stir it 
 about with a pestle for half an hour; then 
 add to it a pound of double-refined sifted 
 sugar; mix them together well, until it be- 
 comes a stiff paste; divide this into five 
 parts, four of which must be tinged as fol- 
 lows: red, blue, yellow, and green, (the fifth 
 left white), with the usual coloring materials. 
 Before, however, they are colored, add to 
 each piece, a pound and a half of double- 
 refined sugar, sifted, dipping the paste in 
 water occasionally, to enable it to receive 
 the additional quantity of sugar. When you 
 mix in the coloring materials, add also a 
 corresponding perfume: as, to the red, rose- 
 water, and a few drops of essence of roses; 
 to the blue, oil of violets; to the yellow, es- 
 sence of cedar; to the green, essence of 
 bergamot ; and with the white, mix a little 
 orange-flower water, and some drops of es- 
 sence o{ Neroli. 
 
 Your paste l^ing thus prepared, form it 
 of whatever little ornaments you please, such 
 as eggs, balls, turnips, (adding green leavea 
 to these), &c. of the white; of the yellow, 
 apricots, pears, carrots, &c. ; plums, &c. 
 of the blue; and so on; rolling them in your 
 hands to smootli them, and niake them all 
 quite small; to those which imitate fruits, 
 add tails and tops, cut fiom cheri-j' -stalks, 
 and stuck on whilst the paste is damp; and 
 1 with a hair-pencil, dipped in powdered cin- 
 
EGG 
 
 280 
 
 riL 
 
 nabar, tinge the pears, apples, and apricots, 
 slightly breathing on ihera to moisten the 
 aurface. When all are done, put them into 
 paper cases, and set them in a warm place 
 for several days, to dry. 
 
 'EGGS CARAMEL. Take the yolks 
 of a dozen hard eggs, bruise them in a sauce- 
 pan, with some powder-sugar, three almond 
 biscuits, and half a glass of cream ; make 
 these into a paste, of which form little eggs, 
 dip them in caramel sugar, and brown them. 
 
 EGGS DUCHESSE. Boil a pint and 
 a half of cream with some sugar, orange- 
 flower, candied lemon-peel, marchpane, and 
 burnt almonds, all chopped small or bruised ; 
 •whip up the whites of eight eggs well, and 
 then take two or three spoonfuls of them at 
 a time, and poach them in the cream ; drain, 
 and lay them on a dish, so as to resemble 
 ^gs poached without the yolks. When all 
 the whites are thus used, put the cream on 
 the fire, and reduce it, and as the dish is 
 sent to table, add the yolks to the cream, 
 and pour die sauce gently over the eggs. 
 
 EGGS FILAGRAMME. Take a pint 
 of white wine, half a pound of fine powder- 
 gugar, and make it into a clear sirup with 
 the white of an egg', beat up well eight 
 eggs, and pour them through a colander 
 into tlie sirup; a very short time is sufficient 
 to cook them. Serve either hot or cold. 
 
 EGGS OF SNOW. Break ten eggs, 
 and having separated the yolks and whites, 
 whip the latter as for biscuits; then add 
 two spoonfuls of powder-sugar, and a little 
 dried orange-flower in powder. Pour a 
 quart of milk, six ounces of powder-sugar, 
 and a little orange-flower, into a saucepan, 
 and when it boils put into it, a dessert-s|x»on- 
 fol at a time, of the white of egg ; poach the 
 latter, and then set them on a sieve to drain. 
 Then beat up the yolks, and mix them with 
 half the milk, put it on the fire, and stir it 
 with a wooden-spoon till it begins to thick- 
 en ; then take it off", lay the jwached eggs in 
 a dish, and cover them with tlie yolks and 
 milk. 
 
 EGGS, WHITE OF. To make a dish 
 of these, take the whites of twelve eggs, 
 beat them up with four spoonfuls of rose-wa- 
 ter, some lemon-peel grated, and a little 
 nutmeg; sweeten them with sugar, mix 
 them well, and boil them in four bladders; 
 tie them in the shape of an egg^ and boil 
 them hard; tliey will take half an hour; 
 
 lay them in a dish ; when cold, mix half a 
 pint of thick cream, a gill of mountain, and 
 the juice of half an orange all together; 
 sweeten it with fine sugar, and serve it over 
 the eggs. 
 
 FILBERT BISCUITS. Take some 
 Barcelona filbert nuts, and put them in a mor- 
 tar to break their shells ; pick all the shells 
 from them clean, pound them in a mortar 
 very fine, and mix whites of eggs with them; 
 take care they do not oil; mix three pounds 
 of powdered-sugar, with the nuts and whites 
 of egg», to a proper thickness ; let your oven 
 be of a moderate heat, then widi the spaddle 
 and knife, drop small pieces, about half as 
 big as a nutmeg ; put two or three sheets of 
 paper under them, let them bake of a fine 
 brown, and all alike; and let them be cold 
 before you take them ofi" tlie paper. 
 
 FILBERT CANNELLONS. Bum 
 
 and pound six ounces of filberts, moist- 
 ening them with white of egg; when well 
 pounded, add a quarter of a pound of 
 fine pounded sugar, and half the white of an 
 egg; dry this paste a little, and then press 
 it through a syringe, cutting the cannellons 
 about four inches in length ; make the fri- 
 ture quite hot, dip the cannellons in baiter, 
 and fry them. Sprinkle them with sugar, 
 and glaze them with a salamander. T-.ike 
 particular care to keep the cannellons per- 
 fectly straight. 
 
 FILBERT BURNT, ICE CREAM. 
 Roast some Barcelona nuts well in the oven, 
 and pound them a little with some cream; 
 put four eggs into a stewpan, with one pint 
 of cream and two gills of sirup; boil it till it 
 becomes thick, pass it through a sieve, and 
 freeze it; then mix the filberts with it be- 
 fore you put it into your moulds. 
 
 FILBERT MACAROONS. Take a 
 pound of filberts, and put a quarter of them 
 into a preserving-pan (immediately after you 
 have taken tiiem from the shells,) over a 
 moderate fire; stir them continually with a 
 silver spoon, until ihey are colored, and the 
 skin begins to peel off; then take them out ; 
 rub off the skin entirely, and when quite 
 cold, pound them with a little white of egg: 
 proceed in the same manner with the re- 
 maining three-quarters; and when all are 
 thus pounded separately, put the whole to- 
 gether into the mortar, with a pound of 
 sugar, and the whites of two eggif, and beat 
 them for ten minutes; after which, add two 
 pounds more of sifted sugar, previously beat- 
 
GOO 
 
 281 
 
 GRE 
 
 en up with six whites of eggs; stir all these 
 together well for five or six minutes, when 
 the preparation should be sufficiently firm, to 
 prevent its spreading when laid ; if, how- 
 ever, it he too firm, add to it more white of 
 egg. When you have proceeded so far, wet 
 tlie palms of your hands, and loll a spoonful 
 of the preparation to the size and form of a 
 nutmeg; when all done, dip your hands in 
 water, and pass them gently over the maca- 
 roons, which will make their surface smooth 
 and shining; put them into a nearly cold 
 oven; close it tight, and let them remain in 
 it for three-quarters of an hour. Lay the 
 macaroons at least an inch apart, and as 
 round as possible. 
 
 FLOWERS IN SUGAR. Clarify su- 
 gar to a caramel height, which may be 
 known by dipping in a fork, and if it throws 
 the sugar as fine as threads, put in the flow- 
 ers. Have ready some tea-cups, widi the 
 insides rubbed with sweet oil; put into each 
 cup four table-spoonfuls of the sugar and 
 flowers, and when cold turn them out of the 
 cups, and serve them to table piled one upon 
 another. 
 
 FRUIT BISCUITS. To the pulp of 
 any scalded fruit, put an e(jual quantity of 
 sugar sifted, l)eat it two hours; then put it 
 into little while paj^er forms; dry them in a 
 cool oven, turn them the next day, and in 
 two or three days box them. 
 
 FRUIT, PRESERVED, BISCUITS 
 OF. Take dried preserved fruits, such as 
 apricots, verjuice, grapes, plums, oranges, 
 and a little orange-llower marmalade; 
 pound them together, and sift in a sieve; 
 then mix it with yolks of new laid eggs, and 
 fine powder-sugar, until it comes to a supple 
 paste, not too licjuid; then bake them on 
 paper in a moderate oven. 
 
 G. 
 
 GINGER, CANDIED. Put an ounce 
 of ginger, grated fine, and a poimd of sifted 
 sugar into a preserving-pan with as much 
 water as will dissolve it. Stir them well 
 together over a slow fire, till the sugar he- 
 gins to boil ; then add aiiotlier pound, stir- 
 ring constantly till it thickens. Take it 
 from the fiie, drop it on earthen dishes, set 
 them in a warm place to dry, and they will 
 be hard and brittle and look white. 
 
 GOOSEBERRY CAKES. Break the 
 
 gooseberries, press out the juice, and strain 
 
 it through a muslin; to one pint of juice a 
 
 pound of sugar; boil up tlie juice; strew in 
 
 24* 
 
 the sugar: stir it well; simmer it well till 
 the sugar is melted; pour it into glasses: 
 dry it in a stove till it will turn out, then 
 dry the cakes on plates. 
 
 GOOSEBERRIES, GREEN, COM- 
 POTE OF. Give them a little cut on one 
 side to squeeze out the seeds, and put them 
 in hot water to scald, till they rise to the 
 top; then put cold water to them, adding a 
 little salt, to bring them to their natural 
 green ; simmer them in clarified sugar, and 
 let them remain in sometime to imbil)e the 
 sweet ; take them out, and put them in the 
 compotier ; reduce the sirup to a good con- 
 sistence, and pour it over the fruit. This 
 is for green gooseberries ; but if you make 
 use of preserved ones, warm them in their 
 own sirup and a little water, and serve it 
 eidier hot or cold. These will not keep 
 long, particularly if they have been wanned 
 again: if exposed to the air any time, they 
 will lose their color. 
 
 GRAPE ICE. Take ripe grajies, pick 
 them from their stalks, pass them through 
 a sieve; mix some sugar with the juice of 
 four lemons squeezed upon it; pass the 
 whole together a second time through a 
 sieve, then freeze it. 
 
 GRAPES RATAFIA. Take some 
 fine muscadine grapes, pick them from the 
 stalks; bruise and press them, so as to ex- 
 tract all their juice ; then dissolve some su- 
 gar in the grape juice, adding to it brandy 
 and cinnamon ; let the whole infuse for a 
 fortnight ; then strain it through a filtering 
 bag, and bottle it off. The proper propt)r- 
 tions are one pint of brandy, and ten ounces 
 of sugar to one pint of grape juice. 
 
 GREEN-GAGES TO CANDY. When 
 finished in the sirup, (see greengages to 
 preserve,) put a layer into a new sieve, 
 and dip it suddenly into hot water, to take 
 off' the simp that hangs about it; then put 
 it on a na|)kin before the fire to drain, and 
 then do some more on the sieve. Have 
 ready some sifted double-refined sugar, sift 
 this all over every part of the fruit, till it ia 
 perfectly white. Set it on the shallow end 
 of sieves in a lightly warm oven, and turn 
 it two or three times. It must not be cold 
 till dry. Watch it carefully. 
 
 GREEN GAGES TO PRESERVE. 
 
 ■ You must choose the largest, when they be- 
 gin to soften; split without paring them, and 
 having previously weighed an equal quanti- 
 ty of sugar, strew a part of it over them; 
 blanch the kernels with a small sharp knife ; 
 next day, pour the sirup from the fruit, and 
 boil it with tlie other sugar, very gently, for 
 
JUN 
 
 282 
 
 LEM 
 
 BIX or eight minutes ; skim, and add the 
 phims and kernels. Simmer till clear, 
 taking off any scum that risps ; put tlie fruit 
 single into small pots, and pour the sirup 
 and kernels upon it. 
 
 GUM PASTE. Put a pound of gum- 
 dragon in a basin, with warm water enough 
 to cover one inch above the gum ; set this in 
 a warm closet for four and twenty hours ; 
 have a new tammy ready laid over a dish ; 
 spread it on it, and squeeze through as 
 iBuch as you can at first; then opeu the 
 tammy, spread the gum out again, and then 
 squeeze it; repeat this till the whole is 
 tlirough; then lay it on the slab, work it 
 well with your hand, put in nearly all the 
 juice of one lemon, and a pound of the best 
 double refined powder-sugar, by degrees, as 
 you work it; but before you have put in the 
 whole of the sugar, begin lo add some of 
 the best starch powder; blend them thor- 
 oughly together, till the paste l)egins to 
 take an impression; then roll it in a cloth, 
 and let it stand in a damp place for a week 
 or ten days, (it is the better for keeping), 
 work it with powder, and it will cut and 
 mould to any shape you please, and when 
 you want it to harden, set it in a dry place; 
 if you wish to color it, to make it red, use 
 cochineal or carmine ; for blue or violet 
 color, use indigo ; for yellow, saffron ; for 
 green, the juice of beet leaves, scralded over 
 the fire, the tliick part mix with the paste. 
 When you put in colors, be careful to blend 
 them well, and be particular that the color 
 is good. 
 
 H. 
 
 HARTSHORN CREAM. Boil a quar- 
 ter of a pound of hartshorn-shavings in three 
 pints of water ; when reduced to half a pint, 
 strain it through a jelly-bag; put it to a 
 pint of cream and a quarter of a pound of 
 powder-sugar, and give them one lx)il to- 
 gether; then put it into cups or glasses, and 
 let them stand till cold, when turn them out 
 on a dish; stick some sliced blanched al- 
 monds on the top of each. White wine 
 and sugar is usually eaten with them. 
 
 JUNIPER BERRIES, ICES OF. In- 
 
 fuse some juniper berries in warm water, 
 or take about a handful of the berries, and 
 boil them a moment with a pint of water, 
 half a pound of sugar, and a bit of cinna- 
 mon, and sift them ituough a sieve with ex- 
 pression, and finish the same as all othei-s. 
 
 JUNIPER RATAFIA. Take three 
 ounces of juniper berries, anise, corian- 
 der, cinnamon, and cloves, of each eight- 
 een grains; bruise all these ingredients, and 
 infuse them, for a month, in three pints of 
 brandy; then strain it, add three-quarters 
 of a pound of sugar dissolved in half a pint 
 of water, stir them together, pass the whole 
 through a jelly-bag, and bottle it; keep it 
 well corked. 
 
 LEMON BRANDY. Put the peel of 
 two lemons into a bottle of brandy, let it 
 stand for four and twenty hours, then strain 
 i it ; boil two ounces of loaf sugar in a quar- 
 ter of a pint of water; then skim, and let it 
 stand till cold; when cold, mix it with the 
 brandy. 
 
 LEMON CAKES. Quarter as many 
 lemons as you think proper, they must have 
 good rinds, and boil them in two or three 
 waters, till they are tender, and have lost 
 their bitterness; then skin them, and put 
 them in a napkin to fry; with a knife take 
 all the skins and seeds out of the pulp, shred 
 the peels fine, put them to the pulp, weigh 
 them, and put rather more than their weight 
 of fine sugar into a tossing-pan, with just 
 sufficient water to dissolve the sugar; boil 
 it -till it becomes perfectly dissolved, tmd 
 then by degrees put in the peel and pulps; 
 stir them well before you set them on the 
 fire, boil it very gently till it looks clear and 
 thick, and then put it into flat-lxittomed 
 glasses ; set them in a stove, and keep them 
 in a continual and moderate heat, and turn 
 them out upon glasses, as soon as they are 
 candied. 
 
 LEMON COMPOTE. Cut them in 
 small pieces, and boil them in water till 
 they are tender, then change them into cold 
 water; then make a sirup with a glass of 
 water, and a quarter of a pound of sugar, 
 and put in the fruit; let it simmer gently 
 over a slow fire for half an hour, and serve 
 cold. 
 
 LEMON CONSERVE. Grate the rind 
 of a lemon on a piece of sugar (about a 
 pound,) scrape off the surface of the sugar 
 as the lemon adheres to it, until you have 
 rasped the whole of the rind ; squeeze half 
 the juice on the scraped sugar, and then 
 boil the rest to la grande plume; take it 
 from the fire when at this degree, and let it 
 stand a little; stir in the lemon gently, and 
 when it forms a sort of glace on the top of 
 the st^ar, pour the conserve into moulds ; 
 
LEM 
 
 283 
 
 LEM 
 
 being cAreful, however, that it is not too 
 hot. 
 
 LEMOIV DROPS. Grate three large 
 lemons, with a large piece of double refined 
 sugar; tlieii scrape the sugar into a plate, 
 add half a tea-spoonful of flour ; mix well 
 together, and beat it into a light paste, with 
 the white of an egg. Drop it upon white 
 paper, put them on a tin-plate, and set them 
 in a modeiate oven. 
 
 LEMOx\ ICE CREAM. Take the juice 
 of three or four lemons, and grate the peel 
 of one lemon; add two gills of sirup, and 
 one pint of cream ; mix it all together, pass 
 it through a sieve, and freeze it. 
 
 LEMONS TO KEEP FOR PUD- 
 DINGS. When you squeeze the fruit, 
 throw the outside in water, without the 
 pulp ; let them remain in the same a fort- 
 night, adding no more ; boil them in the 
 same till tender ; strain it from them, and 
 when they are nearly dry, throw them into 
 any jar of candy you may have remaining 
 from old sweetmeats ; or, if you have none, 
 boii a small quantity of sirup, of common 
 loaf sugar and water, and pour over them ; 
 in a week or ten days, boil them gently in 
 it till they look clear; and that they may 
 be covered with it in the jar, you may cut 
 each half of the fruit in two, and they will 
 occupy a smaller space. 
 
 LEMON PASTILS. Take half a pound 
 of pounded loaf sugar, sifted as fine as pos- 
 sible ; put it in a plate, take three or four 
 lemons, and squeeze their juice over the su- 
 gar; mix it well with a spoon, till you make 
 It rather a thickish paste, so that you can 
 tJike it upon a knife ; then take half a sheet 
 of paper, and cover it with little round and 
 flat drops, about the size of a sixpence, place 
 them in a stove with a slow fire till they are 
 quite dry, then take them off from the paper; 
 you may use, if you please, some of the peel 
 grated, but notchi{)ped; for, as it is a melt- 
 ing pastil, some of the bits would remain in 
 the mouth. 
 
 LEMON PEEL CANDIED. Take 
 
 some thick-rinded lemons, pare off the yel- 
 low |)epl, and thiow it into Iwiling water till 
 soft, when it must be put into cold water. 
 Clarify some fine sugar, and boil it au petit 
 lisse, and having drained the lemon-peel, 
 pour on it the sirup (whilst hot) ; the next 
 day boil the sirup again, and return it to the 
 peel; the third and fourth days proceed in 
 the same manner, adding a small quantity of 
 clarified sugar; the last time the sirup is 
 boiled, as soon as it rises to perle, put in 
 the peel, cover and boil the whole together 
 
 once, and when cold, drain and dry them in 
 a stove. 
 
 LEMON PEEL, TO CANDY. Take 
 some lemon-peels, and clean them well from 
 the pulp, and let them lay two days in salt 
 and water; then scald and drain them dry, 
 then boil them in a thin sirup till they look 
 quite clear. After which, take them out, 
 and have ready a thick sirup made with fine 
 loaf sugar; put them into it, and simmer 
 them till the sugar-candies about the pan and 
 [)eels. Then lay them separately on a) hair 
 sieve to drain, strew sifted sugar over them, 
 and set them to dry in a slow oven. 
 
 LEMON PEEL, CARAMEL. Take 
 
 some veiy dry preserved lemon-peel, and 
 cut it into several small square pieces; put 
 these pieces each on the point of little sticks 
 for this purpose, and dip them into caramel 
 sugar as directed. See chestnuts au car- 
 amel. 
 
 LEMON PEEL SIRUP OF. Take 
 
 five ounces of fresh lemon-peel, put it into a 
 glass cucurbite, which has been gradually 
 heated ; pour on them two pounds of nearly 
 boiling water; close the vessel very tight, 
 and place it on hot ashes for twelve hours ; 
 after which, let the infusion run out gently 
 without pressing the peel ; add two pounds 
 of powder-sugar, and then boil the whole to 
 grand perle, when about half cold, put in 
 a few drops of spirit of lemon. 
 
 LEMON SWEETMEATS. Take a 
 pound of marchpane paste, and mix it with 
 as many yolks of eggs as will enable you to 
 spread the paste with a knife ; add to it a 
 sufficient quantity of grated lemon-peel to 
 impart the flavor ref|uired. The whole 
 being well mixed, cut some sheets of wafer 
 paper into such figures as your fancy may 
 dictate, and spread the paste over them, 
 about a quarter of an inch in thickness; 
 place them on paper, and bake them in a 
 moderate oven. If you wish to glaze your 
 sweetmeats, lioil some sugar with orange- 
 flower water to la plume, and wlien they 
 are taken out of the oven, wash them over 
 with the sirup, which dries almost immedi- 
 ately. 
 
 LEMONS, SIRUP OF. Squeeze as 
 many lemons as will yield aliout three-quar- 
 ters of a pound of juice, taking particular 
 care that the peel of every lemon is perfectly 
 sound, and that they are none of them in the 
 least degree bitter. Set your juice in the 
 cellar for four days, and then filter it through 
 blotting-paper. Break a pound and a half 
 of double-refined sugar into pieces about an 
 inch square ; put them into a gallon matrass. 
 
MAC 
 
 284 
 
 MAR 
 
 pour the lemon-juice over it, close the mat- 
 rass with paper, and place it in a bain ma- 
 rie until the sugar is entirely dissolved ; then 
 extinguish your fire, and let the matrass cool 
 gradually ; wiien cold, add two spoonfuls of 
 spirit of lemons, then bottle it, keep it well 
 corked. 
 
 LEMON WAFERS. Squeeze the juice 
 of six lemons into a basin ; pound and sift 
 some double- refined sugar, and mix it with 
 the lemon-juice ; put the white of one egg 
 with it, and mix the whole well together 
 with a wooden s|x>on, to make it of a good 
 consistence ; take some sheets of wafer-pa- 
 per, and put one sheet of it on a pewter 
 sheet or tin plate; put on it a spoonful of 
 the preparation, and spread it all over tiie 
 paper with a knife ; cut it into twelve pieces, 
 and put them across a stick in a hot stove, 
 with that side the paste is on uppermost, 
 and you will find they will curl ; when they 
 are half curled, take diem off very carefully 
 and put them up, endways, in a sieve, that 
 they may stand up ; let them be in the hut 
 Btove one day, and you will find they will be 
 all curled, and then they are done. 
 
 LIQUORICE PASTE. Scrape and 
 bruise a quarter of a pound of liquorice-root, 
 and boil it in a little water till it is much 
 reduced ; let it stand to settle, and pour it 
 clear off, and dissolve in it half an ounce 
 of gum-dragon : when thoroughly dissolved, 
 sift it in a linen bag, and mix sugar with it 
 till it is brought to the consistence (»f a paste; 
 then cut it into what dowel's or designs you 
 think proper. 
 
 M. 
 
 MACAROONS, SPICED. Take a 
 pound of sweet almonds, and two pounds of 
 sifted sugar; make your paste as usual, to 
 which add a spoonful of powdered cinnamon, 
 six or eight cloves, also pounded, some pre- 
 served lemon and orange-peel (of each a 
 gpoonfiil,) chopped small, and the grated 
 rind of two lemons; mix them all together 
 in the mortar, and then lay your macaroons 
 as usual, and bake them with equal care. 
 
 MACEDOINE OF FRUIT. The 
 macedoine is an ornamental dish, composed 
 of transparent jelly, with various fruits en- 
 closed in it; for this purpose it should be 
 done as follows: Have a dome-shaped mould 
 six inches and a half in diameter, and four 
 in height, the sides fluted ; the smaller mould 
 must be of a similar form, but only four inch- 
 es and a half in diameter, and two and three- 
 quarters high; to this latter have four han- 
 dles, bent at the end, to hang it exactly in 
 
 the centre of the larger mould. Prepare a 
 strawl)erry transparent jelly, |)lace the larger 
 mould as straight as possible in jwunded ice, 
 hang the small one in it, and pour the jelly 
 into the former; whilst it is congealing, 
 pick alwut twenty fine white strawberries, 
 the same number of very red ones, the san>e 
 of while raspberries, a dozen bunches of red, 
 and tlie same of white currants; wash all 
 these well, but tou(;h them as little as possi- 
 ble, that tiiey may not lose their freshness; 
 when the jelly is perfectly set, pour some 
 hot water into the small mould which will 
 enable you to remove it with ease ; raise it 
 with great care, so tliat the space may 1^ 
 found without the slightest flaw; then place 
 on the jelly (in the centre of this space) two 
 bunches of white currants, surroimd these 
 with a ring of white slrawl)erries, and the 
 latter with a crown or ring of white rasp- 
 berries; pour over very carefully two or 
 three spoonfuls of the jelly, and when that Ts 
 congealed, proceed in the s^ame way with 
 the red cmranls, strawberries, and raspber- 
 ries, then the jelly, and so on alternately, 
 until all the fruit is used ; fill the mould with 
 jelly; as soon as the whole is congealed, dip 
 your mould into a large saucepan of hot 
 water, and tlien turn it into a dish instantly. 
 The macedoine may be garnished in this 
 manner with any kind of fruit you think 
 proper. It may also be filled with two jel- 
 lies as follows: white lemon jelly in the 
 large mould, and finished with the same 
 jelly, tinged with either rose-color or yellow; 
 indeed tlie moulds may be varied in any way 
 your fancy may dictate. 
 
 MALLOWS, SIRUP OF. Take half 
 a pound of mallows root, and having scrap- 
 ed and washed it well, cut it into small 
 pieces, which set on the fire with three pints 
 of water; when su<5ciently boiled, the wa- 
 ter will be glutinous, strain off the decoction, 
 and pour into it four pounds of sugar; clari- 
 fy it in the same manner as capillaire; boil 
 it to lisse, run it through a jelly-bag, and 
 when cold, bottle it. 
 
 MARASCHINO. Take sixteen poimr's 
 of fine sharp cherries, stone and take off 
 the stalks; put them into five quarts of 
 brandy to infiise, covered close for three 
 days, then distil the infusion; distil also a 
 pound of cherry -leaves in six quarts of filter- 
 ed liver water, from which you will obtain 
 about a gallon; dissolve in this four pounds 
 and a half of fine sugar; add it to the li- 
 queur, with two pints and a half of kirschen- 
 wasser, an ounce and four drachms of spirits 
 of rose, the same of orange-flowers, and 
 three drachms of spirits of jessamine; mix 
 them altogether, run it through a jelly-bag, 
 and bottle it; cork them well. 
 
MAR 
 
 285 
 
 EL 
 
 MARASCHINO, CONSERVE OF. 
 
 Pound and sift some of the best lump sugar, 
 mix it in a china basin with spirit of maras- 
 chino, until it is of the consistence of pastil 
 paste; then put it info a skillet over the fire, 
 and heat it gently, stirring it constantly (but 
 without letting it boil,) till very liquid, when 
 it may be poured into funnel-sliaped tin 
 moulds; put these moulds on iron plates, 
 and di7 the conserve in a stove. 
 
 MARASCHINO ICE CREAM. Take 
 two quarts of cream, twelve eggs, a pound 
 of double-refined sugar, and three glasses 
 of true maraschino ; put the cream on to 
 l)oil, and in the meantime whisk the whites 
 of the eggs to a firm snow, then pour in 
 eight yolks, and the sugar pounded and 
 sifted, stir them together lightly, and then 
 add by degress the boiling cream, whipping 
 continually; set it on the fire, and do not 
 cease whipping until it has boiled up three 
 or four times ; pour it through a sieve into 
 a basin, stirring a little to enable it to run 
 more freely ; when cold put it into the sor- 
 betiere with the maraschino; cover it in- 
 stantly, and ice it as usual. 
 
 MARCHPANE. Take four pounds of 
 sweet almonds, throw them into boiling 
 water, let them lay till the skin loosens, 
 then put them into cold water, after a few 
 minutes Wanch and throw them again into 
 cold water to wash them thoroughly. When 
 dry, pound them (a handful at a time) to a 
 very fine paste, moistening each handful 
 with two spoonfuls of water; the whole 
 quantity of almonds being pounded, put the 
 paste into a large preserving pan, with four 
 pounds of the best lump sugar finely pound- 
 ed and sifted ; set the pan on a coal fire, 
 stir and work them up together with a 
 large wooden spatula, rather sharp at the 
 bottom : be very careful that none of the 
 paste adheres to the pan ; the consequence 
 of such neglect would be, that the march- 
 pane would be spotted with yellow, and 
 would smell unpleasantly. Whilst working 
 it up, the paste, which when put in was 
 tolerably firm, will become rather liquid, 
 and a gieat deal of vapor may be observed ; 
 the first is caused by the sugar dissolved by 
 the heat and moisture, the second by the 
 evaporation of the water. Continue to stir 
 and work it up in this manner without 
 ceasing for two hours, and if at the end of 
 that time, you can touch the paste without 
 its adhering to your fingers, it is sufliiciently 
 dried; in which case remove it all to one 
 side of the pan, clean the bottom and side 
 of the other, sprinkle it well with flour, then 
 put the paste to (hat part, clean and sprin- 
 kle that side also; then take the pan by 
 both ears and move It round and round, so 
 
 that the paste may all unite together; as 
 soon as it has done so, put it into a sheet of 
 paper, or, if you want to use it immediate- 
 ly, on a well floured table. This paste, if 
 the almonds be well pounded and then thor- 
 ougWy dried, will keep good for six months; 
 if these two precautions are not properly 
 attem^d to, it will become sour in ten days. 
 
 MARIGOLDS, CONSERVE OF. Take 
 four ounces of marigold-flowers, conserve of 
 hyacinth and hermes, of each four drachms, 
 the powder of pearl two ounces, and as 
 much sirup of citron as will make them into 
 a conserve, mixing and bruising them to- 
 gether with refined sugar. 
 
 MARJORAM CONSERVE. Take 
 the tops and tenderest part of sweet marjo- 
 ram, bruise it well in a wooden mortar or 
 bowl ; take double its weight of fine sugar, 
 boil it with marjoram-water till it is as 
 thick as sirup, then put in your beaten mar- 
 joram. 
 
 MARSEILLES, OR GINGER. Take 
 a pound and a half of double-refined sugar,, 
 and boil it to fort souffle, add to it ao 
 ounce of ginger in powder, remove the pan 
 from the fire, and with a round slick (like 
 a plain round rule) stir the sugar, inclining 
 the stick towards the sides of the pan, then 
 with a spoon take the sugar that sticks to 
 the edges and put it amongst the liquid, then 
 work it up again with the stick, remove the 
 solid sugar as before, and repeat this opera- 
 tion four times, when it will have l)ecome tole- 
 rably thick and firm ; pour it into paper cases,^ 
 about half an inch thick, and with a fork 
 trace on its surface, whilst warm, lozenges 
 of what size you please; afterwards, with 
 the point of a knife, mark some of these 
 deeper than the others; when quite cold, 
 take them out of the papers, and separate 
 them, where the lines are deepest. The 
 Marseilles, if preserved in a warm or dry 
 place, will keep good for a long time. 
 
 MARSEILLES SPICED. Take a 
 pound and a half of fine sugar, boil it to 
 casse; take a quarter of preserved orange- 
 peel, the same of candied lemon-peel, (or, 
 if you like it better, two ounces of blanched 
 ))istachio nuts), cut them into dice, and put 
 the»n with half an ounce of cloves, the same 
 of cinnamon (both pounded) into the sugar, 
 stir them in gently, continue to boil your 
 sirup to forte plume; then beat it up, pour 
 it into cases, and finish as the Marseilles, 
 
 MELONS, TO PRESERVE LIKE 
 GINGER. Half a pound of ginger to one 
 pound of melon; scrape the ginger, and 
 save the scraping?; |)our a quart of boiling 
 
MIN 
 
 286 
 
 MYR 
 
 water on the ginger, let it i>tand two days: 
 scald tiie melon (with the scrapings of the 
 ginger in tlie water), taking care not to 
 make it too soft: cut it into small pieces 
 resemhiing ginger; then pre|)are a sirup, 
 lialf a pound of sugar to a pint of water ; 
 boil the ginger in it; when rold, put in the 
 melon, and set it over the fire for tt^hort 
 time, but not to boil ; let the sirup, with 
 the ginger, be boiled every day for a fort- 
 night, but not poured upon the melon till 
 nearly cold; tlieo boil a rich sirup tu keep 
 it in. 
 
 N. B. Carrot is equally good with melon. 
 
 MERINGUES. (1) Whisk the whites of 
 nine eggs to a solid froth; tlien add the rind 
 of six lemons, grated extremely fine, and a 
 spoonful of sifted sugar; after which, lay a 
 fihect of wet |)aper on a tin, and with a 
 spoon drop the mixture in little kim()s, 
 seprately upon it, sift sugar over, and put 
 them to Iwke in a moderately heated oven, 
 taking care that they are done of a nice 
 color. Then put ra8pl)erry, apricot, or any 
 other kind of jam l)etween two of these bot- 
 toms, add them together, and lay tbem in 
 a warm place, or Ixjfore the fire to di^. 
 
 MERINGUES. (2) Take the whites 
 of twelve eggs, six ounces of the best lump 
 sugar, |)ounded and sifted, and half a pound 
 of pista(-hios; blanch and beat the latter in 
 a mortar, with a little white of egg, to a 
 very fine jwste. Whisk the white** of eggs 
 to a soow, then add the sugar, and pista- 
 chio paste, mix tljem well, but very lightly, 
 and when they are thoroughly incor|)orated, 
 put some sheets of paper on tin plates, lay 
 your pre|i:n-.uion on the pa[)er, with a spoon, 
 lay the meringues, at least an inch apart; 
 sprinkle sifted sugar over them, and put 
 them into a moderate oven or stove ; wljen 
 done, detach them gently from the pa|)er 
 with a knife, and place them on a sieve in 
 a dry place. Just Iwfore they are sent to 
 table, fill each with a littk whip|x;d cream, 
 to which add a small quantity of either 
 orange-fiowcr, rose, or vanilla water. 
 
 MILK PUNCH. Pare six oranges, and 
 six lemons, as thin as you possibly can, 
 grate tliem after with sugar to obtain the 
 flavor. Steep the peels in a bottle of rum 
 or brandy, stopped doae. for four and twenty 
 hours. Squeeze the fruit on two pounds of 
 sugar, add four quarts of water to it, and 
 one (juart of new milk, boiling hot; stir the 
 rum mlo the above, and run it through a 
 jellv-bag until it is quite clear: bottle and 
 cork it close immediately. 
 
 MINT, DISTILLED LIQUEUR OF. 
 Take two handfuls of fresli galliered garden 
 
 ( mint, and infuse it for some days in a gallon 
 
 I and a half of brandy, and a quart of water; 
 
 j then distil ii as usual. Di8st)lve three 
 
 |)ounds and a half of sugar in seven pints of 
 
 water, mix the sirup with the liqueur, and 
 
 run tlie whole tiirough a jelly bag. 
 
 MINT WATER. Take four pmmds of 
 dried mint, two gallons and a half of proof 
 spirits, and three gallons of water; distil 
 them, and sweeten the water with a (X}und 
 and u half of sugar. 
 
 MIRLITONS. Put into a pan two 
 yolks, and two whole eggs, four ounces of 
 |)owder-sugar, three ounces of sweet maca- 
 roons crushed, half an ounce of crisped 
 oK^nge-flowers in powder, and a grain of 
 sjilt; stir these together a minute, then add 
 two ounces of melted butter; whip the two 
 whites very firm, and put them also to the 
 preparation. Line thirty tartlet moulds with 
 puft'-paste, into each of which pour an equal 
 quantity of the above; cover liiem with 
 sifted sugar, and when ihat is dissolved, 
 strew over a little sugar, a la grele; and 
 put them into a moderate oven : serve either 
 hot or cold. 
 
 MULBERRIES, SIRUP OF. Take 
 
 as many mulberries as will yield three pints 
 of juice, which put into a preserving pan 
 with three pints of water; Iwil until this 
 quantity is reduced to one pint; then lay the 
 fruit on a sieve to drain. Clarify three 
 |x>unds of sugar, boil it to bouille; tlien add 
 the mull)erry-juice; give them one boil, and 
 skim lliem. Pour the sirup into a pan, and 
 let it stand ; when cold, bottle it. 
 
 MUSK, TO PREPARE FOR LI- 
 QUEURS. Take two grains of musk and 
 a quarter of a poimd of sugar, pound them 
 in a mortar and mix them well; keep it in 
 a closely stopped bottle. The (luantity re- 
 quired of this is one pinch to four or five 
 quarts of liqueur. Anil)ergris is pre|iared 
 in a similar manner, but being less |X)werful 
 than the musk, four grains is the proportion 
 to a quarter of a [K>und of sugar. 
 
 MYRTLE, OIL OF. Put two ounces 
 of |)earh leave.*, and the half of a nutmeg, 
 iM'uised, into six quarts of brandy; distil 
 from this in a bain marie alembic your li- 
 queur, in which, infuse half a |x>und of myr- 
 tle flowei-s for four days. Dissolve five 
 pounds of sugar in three (juarts of pure river 
 water; the moment it Ix'gins to l)oil, take it 
 from tlie fire, and let it cool; take the myr- 
 tle flowers from the liqueur, and put in the 
 sugar; mix them well, color it witli tincture 
 of saflfron, strain and bottle it. 
 
NUT 
 
 287 
 
 ORA 
 
 N. 
 
 NONPAREIL. Poppy s*^? sugared in 
 the manner directed under tJ)e articles Su- 
 gared Seedt, are calted Nonpareils; 
 tbev are tingfed of different colorn, by the in- 
 troduction of the various coloring materials 
 into the sugar with which they are cor- 
 ered. 
 
 KOUGAT. Blarjch and wash a pound 
 of Rweet almonds, and having drained diem 
 well, cut each into five slips, which place in 
 a gentle oven to dry; let them be all equally 
 cobred of a clear yellow; in the meantime, 
 put tliree-<^narler« of a pound of fine sugar 
 into a pfesening pan, set it on a stove, 
 stirring with a wooden spoon until com- 
 pletely dissolved ; then take tlie almonds out 
 of llie oven, and whilst hot throw them into 
 the liquid sugar; mix them together well. 
 Have ready a mould well oiled, of any shape 
 you tliink jiroper, in the interior of^ which 
 place the slips of almonds, by means of lem- 
 on-juice, wlien the whfjle is covered, remove 
 ti»e mould carefully, and serve ll»e Nougat. 
 
 NOYAU, ENGLISH. Two gallons of 
 gin, two pounds of bitter almonds, one pound 
 of sweet almonds, b*jih beaten to a fine paste ; 
 six pmmds of limip Fugar, prjunded (some of 
 it with the alnjonds.) Let theiie stand ten 
 days in the gin, then filter it through blotting 
 paper, and bottle it. 
 
 NUT BONBONS. Boil a poand of 
 Spanii^h nuts ; when they are well boiled, 
 rub off their skin with a napkin, if some 
 stick too hard,_pare it off with a knife; 
 grate your nuts very fine on a sheet of pa- 
 per ; then take a pound of powdered sugar 
 to a pf>und of nuts, put it in a pan over a 
 slow fire; when your sugar is all niehed 
 (you must stir it constantly with a wooden 
 B|K»on) fjut y»ur nuts in, and work them well 
 till all is well mixed, and pour it upon a tin 
 plate; tlien spread it with a rolling pin, this 
 must be done very quickly, as it co«il8 very 
 fast; when it is cold, cut it into what form 
 you please ; you must take care tlie sugar is 
 not too much melted, for it is very apt to 
 soften M hen the nuts are added to it. 
 
 NUTS PRA LINED. Take a pound 
 of Sfjanish nuts, fake them out of their 
 stielle, and put them into a pan, with a 
 pound of loaf sugar, and a little water; let 
 them boil till lliej- begin to sparkle; then 
 take them off the fire, and stir them weM 
 with a wooden spoon, till you perceive the 
 sugar tunw giavdty; then set them again 
 
 over a slow fire, to dbaolre the sugar; keep 
 stirring, tliat the flogar may stick to the nuts, 
 and when you see them turn reddish, and 
 are well covered with sugar, take them off, 
 pom- them into a sieve, cover tliem with a 
 clean cloth, and put them into a stove; thb 
 will preserve their gloss. 
 
 NUTMEGS TO CANDY. Take a 
 potmd and a half of double refined sugar, 
 iialf a quarter of a pint of damabk rose-wa- 
 ter, and a very little gum arabic ; hiW these 
 to a candy height ; let your nutnw'g^ be first 
 soaked in water; then put tliem into an 
 earthen pan, pour your candy to them, keep 
 them very ckise covered, set them in a warm 
 pbce for about three weeks, and they will 
 be of a rock candy. 
 
 O. 
 
 OIL OF JUPITER. Take three quarts 
 of spirits of wine, flavored with essential oil 
 of knnon, the same quantity flavored with 
 spirit of cedrat ; make a sirup with seven 
 pounds of sugar, a gallon of wafer, and two 
 Iwttles of Sculjac ; mix the whole together, 
 and liy stirring, it will become thick ; to 
 clarify it, take the whites of two ^gs in 
 about a pint of tlie Itquear, and afterwards 
 put it to the whole ; stir it ; tlien put it into 
 a still in tlie bain marie moderately lieated ; 
 let it remain for twelve hours; filter tlie pro- 
 duce of your distillation, and bottle it. 
 
 OIL OF VENUS. Reduce the foHow- 
 ing articles to an impalpable powder: — an 
 ounce of hkirret seeds, an ounre of caraway 
 seeds, an ounce of anise seeds, a drachm 
 and a half of mace, and the rind of an or- 
 ange ; infuse these ibr five da}-g in a gallon 
 of brandy, then distil from it in a bain ma- 
 rie, two quarts of liqueur; dissolve over 
 the fire four pounds of sugar in two quarts 
 of pure water; when cold, mix it with the 
 distilled liqueur, and color it of a clear ycl- 
 k)W, with a little tincture of safiron ; uter 
 and boule it ; seal the corks. 
 
 ORANGES IN BRANDY. Choose 
 tlie oranges very round and smooth, pare, 
 prick th«n in the middle, and put tliem into 
 cold water; then blanch them in boiling 
 water; when they are tender, throw them 
 again into cokl water ; in a short time give 
 them seven or eiglit boils in fugar, a la pe- 
 tite nappe, skim, and let them stand tJB 
 next day, when the same process must be 
 gotie througti; skim them again, then pMt 
 them into bottles, poor over ibem eqoal 
 quantities of sirup and water ; take care to 
 oork them wdL 
 
ORA 
 
 288 
 
 ORA 
 
 ORANGE, COMPOTE. Cut them 
 in small pieces, and boil them in wa- 
 ter until they are tender, then change them 
 into cold water; next make a sirup with 
 one glass of water and four ounces of sugar, 
 and put in the fruit; let it simmer gently 
 over a slow fire for half an hour ; serve cold. 
 
 ORANGE, CROQUE EN BOTI- 
 CHES OF. Pare a dozen fine oranges, 
 and divide each into twelve pieces, all of 
 the same size ; scrape off every particle of 
 the white, without breaking the thin skin 
 which contains the juice ; when all are done, 
 dip each piece into some sugar boiled to 
 casse (and lightly colored,) and place them 
 in a plain mould of six inches diameter, and 
 five in height ; the first row inclined one way, 
 the second the reverse way, and so on ; lay 
 them at the bottom in a star. As soon as 
 the mould is full, turn it Out, and serve it 
 with all possible expedition, as the moistuie 
 of the fiuit dissolves the sugar so rapidly, 
 that the croque en bouche is liable to ^11 
 to pieces. 
 
 ORANGE CAKES. Divide the or- 
 anges in half, lake out the seeds, and put 
 the pulp and juice into a basin; boil the 
 rinds in a saucepan of water, closely cover- 
 ed; when very tender take them out, and 
 dry them upon a cloth ; allow to a pound of 
 orange rinds, two of pounded loaf sugar; 
 pound the rinds in a mortar ; add by degrees 
 tlie sugar, and then the juice and pulp; mix 
 it thoroughly till thick and yellow ; drop it 
 upon tins in small cakes, and dry them un- 
 der garden glasses, or in a cool oven. If 
 it be too thick to drop, let it stand a night. 
 
 ORANGE SHERBET. Dissolve a 
 pound and half of sugar in a quail of very 
 pure water; take nine fine oranges and two 
 lemons; wipe them well with a napkin, and 
 having grated the most flagrant rinds, squeeze 
 on them the juice of these fruits; sweeten 
 this juice with the above sirup, run the whole 
 through a close hair sieve, and finish in 
 die usual way. (See Sherbet.) 
 
 ORANGE SHRUB. Put ten pounds 
 of crushed su^ar to two gallons of water, 
 and boil it untd the sugar be dissolved ; skim 
 it well, and put it into a tulj; when quite 
 cold, pour it into a barrel ; add three quarts 
 of Jamaica rum, and six quarts of orange- 
 juice (take care there are no pips.) Beat 
 up the white of an egg, mix it with the 
 shrub, and let it stand for a week ; then 
 draw it off and bottle it. 
 
 ORANGE SUGAR. Rasp on a piece 
 of sugar the rinds of the l)e8t oranges, but 
 80 lightly that not a particle of the white is 
 
 mixed with it; scrape oflT the surface of the 
 sugar as it becomes colored, and continue 
 this operation until you have as much sugar 
 as you require ; then lay it in a stove, or at 
 the mouth of the oven to dry ; when it is 
 perfectly so, pass it through a very fine 
 sieve. Lemons and cedrats may be grated, 
 and the sugar dried in tlie same manner. 
 
 9RANGES, GREEN. Scrape out the 
 insides of the oranges quite clean, then let 
 them lie for three days in cold vvater, chang- 
 ing the water daily, then boil them very 
 slowly till the water is bitter; then put 
 them into other boiling water, set them by; 
 repeating this daily till all the bitterness is 
 extracted: make a rich sirup of the last 
 vvater they are boiled in, with Lisbon sugar; 
 when cold, put them in ; the next day boil 
 tliem in the sirup; repeat this till they are 
 green and tender; cover with brandy-paper. 
 
 ORANGE, WATER ICE. Take off 
 the rind of two Seville oranges, very fine 
 and thin ; squeeze the juice into a basin 
 with one lemon ; add half a pint of sirup, 
 and half a pint of water ; pass tliem tlirough 
 a sieve, and freeze them rich. 
 
 ORANGE-FLOWER CONSERVE. 
 Boil half a pound of clarified sugar to grande 
 plume, take it from the fire, and pour into 
 it a dessert spoonful of orange-flower water ; 
 stir them together well, set the mixture on 
 the fire, and when warm, pour it into shal- 
 low paper-cases; let it cool, and then cut it 
 into cakes of any form you please. 
 
 9RANGE-FLOWER PASTILS. Pul- 
 verise a good pinch of dried orange-flowers; 
 pound them with gum-dragon, previously 
 dissolved in one glass of plain, and the 
 same quantity of orange-flower water; add 
 a sufficient proportion of powder-sugar, to 
 make the paste of the requisite consistence, 
 which form according to your taste into 
 cones, lozenges, &c. 
 
 ORANGE-FLOWER PRALINES. 
 Take a pound of very fresh white orange- 
 flowers, pick, and throw them into cold 
 water; clarify, and boil two pounds of sugar 
 to souffle, then put in the flowers; stir 
 them with a spatula, until your sugai* re- 
 gains the degree of souffle; take the pan 
 from the fire, and continue stirring till the 
 sugar is separated from the flowers, and In- 
 comes a powder; set it in a stove to dry, 
 then set the whole on a sieve, that the sugai" 
 may run through and leave the flowers, 
 which put into bottles. If preserved in a 
 dry place tliey will keep for twelve months. 
 
 ORANGE-FLOWERS SIRUP. Clar- 
 
ORG 
 
 289 
 
 ORG 
 
 ify and boil four pounds of sugar to perle, 
 then add three-quarters of a pound of fresh 
 orange-flowers picked, and boil tliem once ; 
 tlien take the pan from the fire, and let it 
 fitand for two hours, after which, replace it 
 on the fire ; when it has had about a dozen 
 boilings, pour it through a sieve into anoth- 
 er saucepan, boil the sirup to lisse, and 
 put it aside; when quite cold, bottle it. 
 The flowers may be used as follows: put 
 tliem into powder-sugar, with which rub 
 them well with your hands, till quite dry, 
 then sift and put them in a stove. 
 
 ORANGE-FLOWER WATER. Put 
 
 into a si ill ten pounds of fresh gathered or- 
 ange-flowers, and six quarts of pure river 
 water ; take particular care to close up all 
 the apertures of the still perfectly, and set it 
 on a moderate fire, that the eiiullition may 
 not lie too strong ; be particular in cooling 
 it fi-equenlly, or, at least, whenever tlie wa- 
 ter in the boiler becomes too warm, change 
 it, and put in fi-esh ; much depends on the 
 attention paid to this part of the operation. 
 From the above quantity, three quarts of 
 orange-flower water may be drawn. 
 
 ORANGE-FLOWE.R DOUBLE 
 Water. Di-aw four quarts of orange- 
 flower water from six quarts distilled as 
 above; put to this water the same quantity 
 of fresli flowers, distil it in the same manner, 
 and it will yield five pints. 
 
 ORANGE PEEL TO CANDY. Take 
 some orange peel, and let it soak in seve- 
 ral waters till it has lost its bitterness, tJien 
 boil it in a solution of double-refined su- 
 gar in water, till it becomes tender and 
 traiisparent. 
 
 ORANGE PEEL TO PRESERVE. 
 
 Cut the oranges in halves, take out the pulp, 
 put the peel in strong salt and spring water, 
 to soak for three days, repeat this three 
 times, then put them on a sieve to dry ; 
 take one pound of loaf sugar, add to it one 
 quart of spring water, boil it, skim it until 
 quite clear; let the peels simmer until they 
 are quite transparent ; dry them before the 
 fire; take loaf-sugar, with just sufficient 
 water to dissolve it; whilst the sugar is 
 boiling, put in the peels, stirring continually 
 until all the sugar is candied round tliem, 
 then put them to dry either before the fire 
 or in an oven, and when perfectly dried, 
 put them by for use. 
 
 ORGEAT. Blanch a pound of sweet, 
 and twenty-four bitter almonds ; pound them 
 to an exceedingly fine paste, adding water 
 25 
 
 occasionally to prevent their oiling; mix a 
 gallon of water, two pounds of sugar and 
 orange-flower water, with this paste; beat 
 them together for some time; then strain it 
 two or three times through a jelly-bag, stir- 
 ring it with a spatula, and serve it in de> 
 canters. 
 
 ORGEAT PASTE. Pound the almonda 
 with a little orange-flower water to a fine 
 paste, and dien work up with it an equal 
 weight of powder-sugar. This paste will 
 keep a long while, and by dissolving a small 
 portion of it in water, and straining it, or- 
 geat may be prepared very quickly. An 
 ounce of the paste is sufficient for half a 
 pint of water. 
 
 ORGEAT SIRUP. Take a pound and 
 a half of sweet, and half a pound of bitter 
 almonds, throw them into boiling water, and 
 leave tliem till the skins can be removed 
 with ease, then throw them into cold water 
 for a minute before you blanch them, after 
 which, they must again be put into cold 
 water; then pound them, a few at a time, 
 in a marble mortar, adding occasionally 
 some water to prevent their oiling; when 
 all are beaten to a very fine paste, dilute this 
 with the greater part of a quart of water, 
 (of which reserve six ounces) ; put the 
 paste into a strong cloth ; squeeze and wring 
 out all the milk from the almonds, put the 
 latter into the mortar, aud pound them 
 again, adding by degrees the remainder of 
 the water, and then squeeze these also in a 
 cloth; pour the whole of thig milk into a 
 matrass, large enough to contain, at least, 
 one-third more liquid, add to it two pounds 
 of lump-sugar, and a pint of orange-flower 
 water; cork the matrass tight, and set it 
 on a bain marie; when the sugar is com- 
 pletely dissolved, (which should be accelera- 
 ted by shaking the matrass occasionally), les- 
 sen the fire by degrees, and as soon as the 
 vessel is cjuite cold, put the sirup into bottles. 
 
 If you should have no matrass, you may 
 make your sirup in the following manner: 
 boil die above mentioned quantity of sugar 
 to forte plume, then add the milk of al- 
 monds, and as soon as it has boiled up twice, 
 take it from the fire; when cold, flavor it 
 with a pint of orange-flower water. 
 
 Or this sirup may be made in a still more 
 simple way, as thus: put the milk of al- 
 monds into some pounded sugar, without 
 being clarified or boiled previously; when 
 the sirup begins to boil, add about a coflfee- 
 cupful of orange-flower water, and after it 
 has boiled up two or three times, take it 
 from the fire ; let it get quite cold before 
 you bottle it. Keep it well corked. 
 
PA» 590 
 
 PEA 
 
 P. 
 
 PARFAIT AMOUR. Take four very 
 fine fresh cedrats, pare them very thin, and 
 infuse them with half an ounce of fine cinna- 
 mon, and four ounces of coriander, in three 
 gallons of strong brandy, and a quart of wa- 
 ter, for a week or ten days, when distil it 
 in the bain marie; this quantity of brandy, 
 if good, will yield two gallons and half a 
 pint of spirit. Dissolve three pounds and a 
 half of sugai" in seven pints of river water, 
 color it with cochineal, then add it to the 
 spirit, filter, and bottle it. 
 
 PASTILLES. To make these articles, 
 it is necessary to have a small cop|)er stew- 
 pan that will hold about a pint, rather deep 
 than wide, with a pointed lip on the right 
 side, and a tolerably long handle, also two 
 
 f)ieces of wood, one about eighteen inches 
 ong, and four in diameter, called tlie bois 
 a tabeller, the other about half the length, 
 one inch in diameter, and the lower end, 
 pointed so that it will exactly fit the lip of 
 the pan; this is called the bois a egoutter; 
 six or eight tin plates about the size of a 
 sheet of letter-paper. 
 
 For the best pastilles, take a pound of 
 double-refined sugar reduced to an impalpa- 
 ble powder; sift it through a tammy on a 
 sheet of white paper, put four or five spoon- 
 fuls of this sugar into your pan, pour on it a 
 little orange-flower water, and beat it well 
 with the large* stick, until the preparation 
 is sufficiently thin to run from the stick 
 without being clear ; if it be so, more sugar 
 must be added. Put the pan over a chafing- 
 dish filled with live coals, and let it stand 
 (stirring constantly) till it boils; then take 
 it off" the chafing-dish, add two more spoon- 
 fuls of sugar, work it up well, scrape away 
 whatever sugar adheres to the stick, set it 
 aside, and take tlie smaller stick in your 
 right hand, hold the pan in your left (slant- 
 ing) over one of the tin-plates ; ihe sugai- 
 will, by these means, flow to the lip, then 
 strike the point of the stick into tlie lip of 
 the pan, which action will separate the 
 liquid, so that each time the stick strikes 
 the lip a single drop of the preparation will 
 fall on the tin ; a little practice will be ne- 
 cessary before this operation can be perform- 
 ed neatly. As soon as all your sugar, &c. 
 is used, replenish the pan and proceed as 
 above directed, until you have as many 
 pastilles as you may require. When cold 
 and hard, remove them from the tins with 
 your hand, and keep them in boxes in a 
 dry place. You may, if you please, color 
 the pastilles, taking care to perfume them 
 with a corresponding odour. 
 
 PASTILLES, COxMMON. These are 
 made in the same manner as the best sort, 
 the difference consists in the materials, 
 (which are a quarter of a pound of powder 
 to three-quarters of a pound of sugar) and 
 tlie perfumes are omitted. 
 
 PASTILLAGES. Put two ounces of 
 well-washed gum dragon into an earthen 
 pan, with as much clear hot water as will 
 cover it, lay a sheet of paper to keep out 
 the dust, and let it stand twenty-four hours; 
 then squeeze it through a coarse cloth into 
 a marble mortar, and add to it as much 
 starch and sugar (both in powder) as the 
 gum water will contain ; pound these ingre- 
 dients well, and strain them through a tammy 
 into a pan which keep covered with a damp 
 cloth. This pastillage is used to form the 
 ornamental pans of pastry and confection- 
 ary, such as temples, baskets, &c., and may 
 be tinged of the requisite sliades, by mix- 
 ing with it any of die coloring materials. 
 
 PEACHES IN A COMPOTE. Cut 
 
 your j)oaches in half, l;!ke out the stones, 
 peel them, then set them on the fire in a 
 sugar-pan, with a sufficient quantity of thick 
 clarified sugar to cover them, and let them 
 simmer in diis gently till done; then take 
 them out in a basin, put in the kernels to 
 the sugar, and let it boil until tolerably thick ; 
 put in the juice of two or three lemons, and 
 pour the sirup over the peaches; serve them 
 in a deep hot dish. 
 
 PEARS IN BRANDY. Take some 
 beurre pears, not too ripe, put them into a 
 saucepan with a sufficient quantity of water 
 to cover them, set them on the fire, and let 
 them simmer, but not boil, until the pears 
 will yield to the pressure of your finger; 
 then change them into cold water; pare 
 them with the greatest care, so that not a 
 single spot may remain ; prick, and put them 
 again on the fire in fresh water and the juice 
 of a lemon; let them boil very fast. As 
 soon as tlie pears are soft enough for the 
 head of a pin to penetrate them easily, take 
 them out carefully with a skimmer, and lay 
 them in cold water. In the meantime, hav- 
 ing boiled your sugar to lisse, pour the 
 boiling sirup on the pears, (previously 
 drained from the water,) and leave tiiem. 
 The next day drain off" the sirup, boil it to 
 la nappe, then put in the pears, give them 
 a boil also ; proceed in the same manner on 
 the third day, after which, drain tl»e fruit, 
 and put it into bottles. Boil up the sirup a 
 few more times, let it cool, and then pour 
 on it some brandy, (three-fourths of the 
 quantity of the sirup;) run the mixture 
 through a bag, put it to the pears, and cork 
 the bottles well. 
 
PIS 
 
 291 
 
 PLU 
 
 PEARS CANDIED. Are done like 
 apricots. 
 
 PEARS, COMPOTE OF. Take some 
 good sized pears, cut tliem in halves, and 
 put them into boiling water; when soft, 
 change them into cold water, in which 
 squeeze a little lemon-juice. Boil some 
 clarified sugar, drain the fruit well from die 
 water, and then put them into the sinip; 
 boil together until the pears are sufficiently 
 done; skim, and place them in the compo- 
 tier. A little Burgundy wine and prepared 
 cochineal will give the compote a red color. 
 
 PEAR MARMALADE. Take six 
 pounds of small pears and four pounds of 
 sugar ; put the pears into a saucepan with 
 a little water, set it on the fire ; when the 
 fruit is soft, take them out, paie, (juarter, 
 and core them; as yo-i do this, Uirow each 
 piece into cold water, in another saucepan, 
 and when all ere done, set them on the tire. 
 As soon as they are sufliciently soft, rub 
 them through a sieve, and having in the 
 meantime clarified and boiled the sugar to 
 petit lisse, pour the sirup to the pulp, set it 
 on the fire, and stir them together until the 
 marmalade is of tlie proper consistence; 
 tlien take it off, put it into pots, and when 
 cold, tie them down. 
 
 PERSICA. Cut about one hundred 
 peach leaves, put them into a wide-mouthed 
 bottle, pour on them a quart of the best 
 brandy, cork it close ; in three weeks strain 
 it off, and put to it an equal quantity of ca- 
 pillaire. It is good in custards, puddings, 
 and as a liqueur. 
 
 PINE APPLE CHIPS. Pare and 
 trim a pine-apple, divide, and slice each 
 half into pieces a quarter of an inch thick ; 
 take half the weight of the fruit in powder- 
 sugar: lay the slices in a basin, with sugar 
 strewed between ; let it stand till die sugar 
 be dissolved, then set it on a moderate fire 
 to simmer till the chips he quite clear, when 
 set it by. The next day remove all the 
 sirup from the slices, place them on glasses, 
 and dry them in a gentle oven. 
 
 PINE APPLE IN A COMPOTE. 
 
 Turn off tlie rind of a pine, cut it in slices, 
 but not too thin ; have some sugar on the 
 fire in a sugar-pan, into which put the slices 
 of pine, and let them boil gently till the sirup 
 is tolerably thick, then take out tlie pine, 
 and lay it on a dish ; mix with tlie sugar, 
 the jaice of a couple of lemons, and pour it 
 over the pine. 
 
 PISTACHIO MARCHPANE. Put a 
 pound and a half of pistachios into a mortar, 
 
 pound them, moistening with white of egg^ 
 to a vei-y fine paste; in the meantime clari- 
 fy the same quantity of sugar, boil it to petU 
 boule; then take the pan from the fire, put 
 in the pistachios, stir them together vvell, 
 replace die pan on hot ashes, continually 
 stirring, till the paste is of a proper consis- 
 tence, tlien pour it on a slab well sprinkled 
 widi sugar; as soon as it is cold, cut it into 
 whatever forms your fancy may dictate. 
 
 PLUMS, IN BRANDY. Take twelve 
 pounds of fine magnum bonum plums, and 
 three pounds of sugar; the fruit should be 
 tuined in color, but not ripe ; prick, and put 
 them into a saucepan with cold water, set 
 them on the fire; when the water boils and 
 the plums rise, take them out carefully with 
 a skimmer and put them into a pan of cold 
 water; clarify and boil the sugar to petit 
 lisse, put the plums to it, and give them a 
 boil; the two succeeding days, drain off 
 and boil the sirup, first alone, and after- 
 wards with the fruit; the tliird day drain 
 die plums, and put them into bottles ; then 
 boil the sirup to la nappe, and when cold, 
 add to it three-fourths of its quantity of the 
 best brandy, stir it well, strain and pour the 
 mixture over the plums. Cork the bottles 
 tight. Green-gage plums are done like 
 apricots. (See Apricots in Brandy.) 
 
 PLUMS CANDIED. Choose your 
 fruit of a nice shape and good size; cut 
 them in halves, lay them on a large shallow 
 dish, strew powder-sugar over, and put 
 them into a moderate oven, tightly closed; 
 in half an hour's time, take them out, and 
 place the plums one by one on glass plates 
 to dry. 
 
 PLUMS, CLEAR CAKES OF. Fill 
 a jar with the white pear plums, set it in a 
 saucepan of boiling water on the fire ; when 
 sufficiently done, let the clear juice run 
 from it, and to every pint of it, add an equal 
 quantity of sugar, boiled to candy height; 
 put the juice to the sirup, set it on the fire, 
 and keep stirring it till the whole is quite 
 hot, but not boiling; tlien pour it into glass- 
 es, and dry tlie cakes in a stove. 
 
 PLUMS, MARMALADE OF. Take 
 
 six pounds of plums, and four pounds of 
 sugar; stone, and put the fruit into a cul- 
 lender, beat it through with a wooden pestle 
 into a preserving-pan, which set on the fire, 
 to dry die pulp, stirring it constantly. In 
 the meantime, clarify and boil die sugar to 
 petit casse, then mix it widi the fruit (still 
 on the fire,) stir it till the whole is of the 
 consistence of jelly, then take it off, and 
 pour the marmalade into pots. 
 
 If the plums are not quite ripe, they must 
 
POM 
 
 292 
 
 POU 
 
 be boiled once or twice before they are 
 pressed through the cullender. Some of 
 the kernels may be added, if approved; 
 tliey should be pounded before putting in the 
 marmalade. 
 
 PLUMS PRESERVED, DRY. Gath- 
 er tlie plums when full grown and just turn- 
 ing color, pi ick and put them into a saucepan 
 of cold water, set them on the fire until the 
 water is on the point of boiling; tlien take 
 tliem out, drain and boil them well in some 
 clarified sugar, let them settle, and then boil 
 them again ; if they shrink and will not take 
 the sugar, prick them as they lay in the pan, 
 and then give them another boil, skim and 
 fiet them by: the next day, add some more 
 sugar, boiled to souffle, to the fruit, and 
 eirup, then do them together; place them 
 in a stove till next day, when drain the 
 plums from the sirup, sprinkle a little pow- 
 der-sugar over, and dry them in a stove. 
 
 PLUMS, PRESERVED LIQUID. 
 Gather the plums green, firm, and when the 
 etone may be extracted with ease, cut the 
 Btalks close, and prick the fruit in several 
 places, especially round the stalk; then 
 place them in a saucepan of water over the 
 fire, and as soon as the water is ready to 
 boil, take the saucepan from the fire; in 
 four-and-twenty hours, replace the plums in 
 Ihe same water on a gentle fire, with a small 
 quantity of verjuice to preserve their color. 
 Keep the water hot, without allowing it to 
 boil, for three hours, stirring it occasional- 
 ly ; when the fruit is perfectly green, increase 
 tlie heat till the plums rise to the surface, 
 when they must be taken out and thrown 
 > into cold water, which change frequently till 
 the plums are perfectly cold, then (Train 
 tliem. Put the fruit in some sugar boiled to 
 la nappe, boil them up a few times, adding 
 a little water; skim, and then pour the 
 whole into a pan ; the next two days, drain 
 off the sirup, and increase the degi'ee of 
 boiling each day ; the third and fourth days, 
 boil the fruit with the sirup, keeping them 
 covered, and increasing the degree, until the 
 last time, it reaches to perle. Put the 
 preserve into pots, and place them for two 
 days in a stove. 
 
 The same fruit may be preserved dry 
 also. The operation is the same, but the 
 sirup is drained off, and the plums laid on 
 tin plates before they are put into the stove. 
 
 POMEGRANATE CLEAR CAKES. 
 Pare some good boiling apples, and put them 
 into a saucepan with as much water as will 
 cover them, set them on the fire, and when 
 perfectly soft, press the pulp through a sieve, 
 aod then strain it. Boil tliis jelly with the 
 
 juice of two or three pomegranates, tiRat of 
 one orange, and one lemon, and the rind of 
 each grated; strain it again, and to every 
 pound of jelly add a pound and a quarter 
 of fine sugar, boiled till it cracks, color it 
 with cochineal; pour it into glasses (taking 
 off the scum before it becomes cold). Set 
 them in a stove, and when the top is dry, 
 turn them out, and put them to dry again ; 
 then cut them into whatever forms yoo 
 please, put them into the stove or oven to 
 harden, then lay them on sieves, and when 
 thoroughly dry, place them in boxes with 
 paper between. As they are apt to become 
 moist, they should be looked at frequently. 
 
 POMEGRANATE JELLY, TRANS- 
 PARENT. Take the seeds from five 
 very fine pomegranates, from which extract 
 the juice by pressing it hard through a 
 horse-hair sieve; filter this juice and mix it 
 with some sirup tinged of a rose color, with 
 a little cochineal; add the isinglass to this, 
 and finish as usual. (See Jelly Fruit.) 
 
 POMEGRANATE SIRUP. Take 
 
 five very ripe large pomegranates, extract 
 the seeds (which must be very red); crush, 
 and put them into a skillet, with half a 
 pint of water; set them on the fire till soft, 
 and then squeeze the juice through a new 
 coarse cloth ; clarify a pound and half of 
 sugar, and boil it to souffle, then add the 
 juice, boil them together to the usual con- 
 sistence of sirups. It must not be bottled 
 until quite cold. This number of pome'- 
 granates will yield a quart of sirup. 
 
 POUPELIN. Put into a saucepan four 
 glasses of water, a quarter of a pound of 
 butter, die zeste of a lemon, and a pinch 
 of fine salt; set it on the fire, and as soon 
 as it begins to boil, take it off, and put in 
 as much sifted flour as will make a paste 
 the consistence of choux, then replace it 
 on the fire, and keep stirring till it dries; 
 make a similar mixture, and when that 
 also is dry, put both into a mortar, with 
 half a pound of powder sugar, an ounce of 
 orange-flowers, and two eggs at a time, un- 
 til five and twenty or thirty are used, by 
 which time the paste will be of the proper 
 consistence, then pour it into a lightly but- 
 tered tin; put it into a moderate oven, and 
 leave it. In three hours' time, if the 
 poupelin is of a nice gold color, take it 
 out, cut off the top, and with a spoon re^ 
 move all the inside, then set it in the 
 oven to dry. When cold, spread all over 
 the interior apricot marmalade, on which 
 strew sweet macaroons crushed, tlien tiun 
 it on a dish, and serve. 
 
RA3 
 
 293 
 
 ROS 
 
 Q. 
 
 QUINCE CAKES. Pare and core 
 half a dozen quinces, boil them till quite 
 soft ; then nib the pulp through a sieve, and 
 strain it; mix this with half a pint of sirup 
 of quinces, and die same of sirup of barljer- 
 ries, and a quarter of a pound of fine sugar ; 
 boil die whole to casse, and then pour it 
 into small shallow moulds, of any shape 
 you please ; let them cool a little, and then 
 dry them in a stove. 
 
 QUINCE CAKES TRANSPARENT. 
 
 Take a quart of sirup of quinces, and half a 
 pint of the sirup of barljerries ; set them on 
 a gentle fire, boi and skim them well; then 
 add two pounds and a half of fine sugar, 
 keep stirring until it reacdies candy height; 
 then take it off, and when nearly cold, lay 
 it, in any form you please, on tin plates. 
 Dry diera in a stove. 
 
 R. 
 
 RASPBERRY CAKES. Gather some 
 raspterries before they are quite rijje, pick, 
 and lay them in a stove to dry; then beat 
 them in a mortar. Take a pound and 
 quarter of fine sugar, clarity anil boil it to 
 casse; then weigh half a pound of raspber- 
 ries, dried as above; throw them into the 
 sirup, with half a spoonful of white of egg, 
 beaten in cream ; stir it carefully, give it a 
 boil, and pour it in moulds or paper cases. 
 
 RASPBERRIES OF MARCHPANE. 
 Take a pound of marchpane, the juice of 
 four lemons, a quarter of a pound of rasp- 
 berry jelly, and a little cochineal; mix these 
 together with a strong wooden spatula ; then 
 add two handfuls of flour, and some powder 
 sugar ; when well worked up, roll them into 
 pieces about the size of a finger, cut these 
 into dice, roll each into a ball, pinch the 
 top into a point, so as to resemble the form 
 of a raspberry: then put them one by one 
 into paper cases, which place in a dry 
 warm place, for eight or ten days. At the 
 end of that time, put a portion of sirup of 
 raspberries, a little cochineal, and a small 
 quantity of powder-sugar into a pan; mix 
 them together with a spoon, and then throw 
 into it a couple of handfuls of the raspber- 
 ries ; take the pan in both hands, and shake 
 it about, so that the raspberries may be 
 equally covered with the red sirup; then 
 put sugar a la grele on a large sheet of 
 paper, spread it out a little, and while the 
 raspberries are wet widi the sirup, throw 
 25* 
 
 them into the sugar; then take the four 
 corners of the paper, shake it about well, 
 by which means the sugar will adhere to 
 the raspberries in all parts, and give them 
 a perfect resemblance to the real fruit ; take 
 them out carefully one by one, lay them on 
 paper, and put them in a warm place for 
 some days. These artificial raspberries are 
 of a pleasant flavor, and will keep several 
 years. 
 
 RASPBERRY MARMALADE. Take 
 
 double the weight of raspberries to that of 
 sugar. Rub the fruit through a sieve, and 
 put the pulp into a saucepan ; set it on the 
 fire, and stir till it is reduced to half ; then 
 pour on the sugar, previously clarified and 
 boiled to petit boute, stir it well in, put it 
 on the fire, give it a few boils, and then 
 pour it into pots. 
 
 RASPBERRIES PRESERVED. Take 
 five or six pounds of red, but not too ripe 
 raspberries, pick, and put them into a pre- 
 serving pan, with an equal weight of clari- 
 fied sugar, boiled to petit boulej when 
 they have boiled up about a dozen times, 
 skim, and pour the whole into a pan till the 
 next day, then drain the fruit, and put it 
 into jars; put to the sirup about two glass- 
 es of cherry juice, previously strained ; boil 
 the sugar to la nappe, and then pour it 
 over the raspberries ; add afterwards, about 
 a spoonful of currant jelly to each pot, and 
 when cold, lay on brandy papers, and tie 
 tliem down. 
 
 RATAFIA OF FOUR FRUITS. Take 
 ten pounds of very ripe cherries, two pounds 
 and a half of raspberries, five pounds and a 
 half of red and two pounds of black cur- 
 rants; pick, and mix diese fruits together, 
 press the juice from them, measure it, and 
 for every quart of juice, take half a pound 
 of sugar, and an equal quantity of brandy; 
 dissolve the sugar in die juice, then put in 
 the brandy, a drachm of mace, and two 
 drachms of cloves. Let the whole stand 
 some time, filter, and bottle it. Keep them 
 well corked. 
 
 ROSES, CANDIED. Crisp two hand- 
 fuls of rose-leaves in some clarified sugar, 
 boil them to fort souffle, then take the pan 
 from the fire, pour it on a sieve, let the sir- 
 up run from the leaves, rubbing the latter in 
 your hands, then dry them in a stove. Boil 
 your sugar again to souffle, adding a little 
 carmine to color it, have a proper mould 
 ready, pour the sugar into it, and put the 
 flowers on it, push them down lightly with 
 a fork, that they may be completely cover- 
 ed with the sugar ; place the mould in a 
 moderate stove or oven for five days, then 
 
SEE 
 
 294 
 
 STR 
 
 drain off the sirup ; lay a sheet of paper on 
 the table, and turn the candy quickly out 
 of tlie mould. 
 
 ROSES, CONSERVE OF. Boil half 
 a pound of sugar to fort souffle, pour into 
 this sirup the best double-distilled rose 
 water; boil it again to fort perle, mix 
 with it a little prepared cochineal or car- 
 mine to color it, and pour your conserve 
 into moulds. 
 
 ROSE RED DROPS. Take a small 
 quantity of red bastard saffron, and a little 
 -Calcined alum, boil these in some water until 
 it is sufficiently tinged for your purpose; 
 tlien filter or strain it through a veiy close 
 linen cloth; put five or six spoouAils of sift- 
 ed sugar into the pan, dilute it with the 
 colored water, work it well with the bois a 
 tabeller, and set it over a chafing-dish ; when 
 it begins to boil, add two more spoonfuls 
 of sugar, and having worked it well, per- 
 fume it with some dro[)s ol' essence of roses, 
 and finish as directed. (See Orange-flow- 
 er Drops.) 
 
 ROSSOLS. Take three-quarters of a 
 pound of picked orange-flowers, a |)ound 
 of musk roses, six drachms of cinnamon, 
 and two of cloves (both bruised); put theuj 
 into a cucurbite with three gallons of pure 
 water; on distilling this, it will yield a gal- 
 lon and a half, in which dissolve twelve 
 pounds of fine sugar broken up ; add to it 
 an equal quantity of spirit of jessamine, col- 
 or it crimson with cochineal, filter and bot- 
 tle it. 
 
 S. 
 
 SEEDS, SUGARED. These are done 
 in the same manner as sugared almonds. 
 The seeds most generally used for this pur- 
 pose are anise, cummin, and fennel. 
 
 The best method of proceeding is as fol- 
 lows: place a small preserving-pan over a 
 charcoal fire, on the side of which have a 
 chafing dish, on which keep a pan with a 
 quantity of sugar boiled to lisse; (this su- 
 gar should be kept quite hot, but not boil- 
 ing) ; on the other side have some fine pow- 
 der. When so far prepared, put your seeds 
 into the pan, and as soon as they begin to 
 heat, pour over them a large sjwonful or 
 two of the sirup ; stir them about, that all 
 may be thoroughly saturated with it ; then 
 sprinkle over it a handful or two of powder, 
 Btill shaking the pan to make the seeds 
 equally white. When dry, pour on some 
 more sirup, then the powder, and continue 
 tliis alternately until your seeda are suf- 
 
 ficiently large; then lay them on a sieve, 
 keep them in a warm place for some days, 
 after which put them into glass bottles. 
 
 SOUFFLE FRANCAIS. Make a 
 croustade eleven inches in diameter, and 
 three and three-quarters in height; put 
 round it three sheets of buttered paper, and 
 bake it. 
 
 Take twelve glasses of boiling milk, in 
 which infuse whatever ingredients you may 
 think proper, such as vatiilla, coffee, orange- 
 flowers, &c. (the proportions will be found 
 under the different articles). In the mean- 
 time, wash a pound of rice thoroughly in 
 warm water, then put it into a saucepan 
 of cold water, and when it has boiled a few 
 minutes, strain the rice, and put it with 
 your infusion into another saucepan, and 
 set it again on the fire; as soon as it boils, 
 place the saucepan on hot ashes, that the 
 rice may burst gradually; in tliree-{iuarters 
 of an hour, add a pound of powder-sugar, 
 three-quarters of a pound of fresh butter, 
 and a pinch of sail, stir them well in; put 
 fresh hot ashes under the saucepm, that the 
 rice may be kept constantly simmering for 
 an hour, by which time it ought to be per- 
 fectly soft, and should be rubbed through a 
 bolting-cloth cjuickly, like a puree; put this 
 into another saucepan over hot ashes, to 
 keep it warm. Take sixteen eggs, sepa- 
 rate the yolks and whites, beat the former 
 well, and whisk the latter till nearly firm ; 
 then mix the yolks with the rice (taking 
 off the ashes) ; the preparation ought to be 
 of the same consistence as a cream palis- 
 siere; add, at first, a quarter, and after- 
 wards the whole of the whites ; stir them in 
 as lightly as for biscuit paste; the whole be- 
 ing thoroughly amalgamated, pour it into 
 the croustade, and place it in a moderate 
 oven for two hours and a half; when done, 
 cover a baking tin with red cinders, on 
 which place the souffle the moment it is 
 taken out of the oven; this prevents its 
 falling, whilst you mask it witli powder- 
 sugar, and glaze with the salamander; car- 
 ry it into the dining-room on a tin, have a 
 dish ready with a napkin folded on it; 
 place the souffle on the dish, and let it be 
 served immediately. Remember tliat a 
 souffle cannot be seived too quickly. 
 
 STRAWBERRY, COMPOTE OF. 
 
 This is made in the same manner as Rasp- 
 berries, only diat the strawberries do not 
 require being mixed with any otlier fruit. 
 
 STRAWBERRY CONSERVE. Take 
 
 some very ripe fresh strawberries, pick, and 
 crush them through a tammy. For every 
 dessert spoonfiil of juice, allow six ounces 
 of sugar ; boil this to fort perle, take it 
 
SUG 
 
 295 
 
 SUG 
 
 off tlie fire, and pour in the juice ; stir them 
 together with a silver spoon, until the con- 
 serve begins to whiten and dry, then put it 
 into moulds or paper cases. If the conserve 
 be too white, add a little carmine to the 
 sirup. 
 
 STRAWBERRY MARCHPANE. 
 
 Take two pounds of sweet almonds, two 
 pounds and a half of sugar, and a pound of 
 picked strawberries. Beat the almonds to 
 a fine paste, and mix them with the sugar 
 (boiled to petit boule;) crush, and strain 
 die juice of the fruit, which add to the al- 
 mond paste and sirup; stir the mixture well, 
 set it on hot ashes, and continue stirring until 
 die paste is sufficiently dune; tliis may be 
 proved i)y laying a piece on the back of your 
 hand ; if it may be removed without its 
 sticking, it is enough; when cold, spread it 
 over a slab, and cut it of any size and shape 
 you diink proper. 
 
 SUGAR, TO CLARIFY. Take fo.ir 
 pounds of sugar, and break it into pieces; 
 put into a [)reserving-pan the white of an 
 egg, and a glass of pure spring water; mix 
 them well with a whisk, add another glass, 
 still whipping, until two quarts of water 
 have been put in ; when the pan is full of 
 froth, thi'ow in the sugar, and set it on the 
 fire, being careful to skim it eveiy time the 
 scum rises, which will be the case as the 
 sugar boils up. After a few boilings, the 
 sugar will rise so high as to run over the 
 edges of the pan, to prevent which, throw 
 on it a little cold water ; this will lower it 
 instantly, and give time for the skimming, 
 for the scum should never be taken off whilst 
 die sugar is bubbling ; the cold water stills 
 it, and that is the moment to skim it. Re- 
 peat diis operation carefully three or four 
 times, when a whitish light scum only will 
 rise; then take die pan off, lay a napkin, 
 slightly wetted, over a basin, and pour the 
 sugar through it. 
 
 The scum thus taken off, put into a china 
 basin; and when the sugar is clarified, wash 
 the pan and the skimmer with a glass of 
 water, which put to the scum, and set it 
 aside for more common purposes. 
 
 SUGAR, Different Degrees of Pre- 
 paring. The various purposes to which 
 sugar is applied, require it to be in different 
 slates; these are called degrees, and are 
 thirteen in number, called as follows: 
 
 Petit Lisse, or First Degree. Re- 
 place the clarified sugar in the preserving- 
 pan, to boil gently, take a drop of it on the 
 thumb, touch it with the fore- finger; if, on 
 opening Uiem, it draws to a fine thread, and 
 in breaking, forms two drops on each finger, 
 it is at the right point. 
 
 Lisse, Second Degree. A little more 
 boiling brings it to this point; when the 
 thread will draw further before it breaks. 
 
 Petit Perle, T'hird Degree. At this 
 point the thread may be drawn as far as the 
 span will open, without breaking. 
 
 Grand Perle, Fourth Degree. On 
 still increasing the boiling, little raised balls 
 are formed on the surface of the sugar. 
 
 Petit Queue de Cochon, Fifth Degree. 
 Take, up some of the sugar on a skimmer, 
 and drop it on the rest, when it should form 
 a slanting streak on the surface. Boil it a 
 little longer, and it will reach the 
 
 Grande Queue de Cochon, or Sixth 
 Degree. The streak or tail is now larger. 
 
 Souffle, Seventh Degree. Take out a 
 skimmeiful of the sugar, blow through it, 
 and small sparks of sugar will fly from it. 
 
 Petit-Plume, Eighth Degree. The 
 same proof as above ; die sparks should be 
 larger and stronger. 
 
 Grande Plume, Ninth Degree. Take 
 the sugar in the skimmer, as before, give it 
 a shake, and if the sparks are large, and 
 adhere together on rising, it is at the right 
 point. 
 
 Petit Boulet, Tenth Degree. Dip 
 your fingers in cold water, and then into 
 the sugar instantly, and again into the wa- 
 ter, when the sugar will roll into a ball, 
 which will be supple when cold. 
 
 Gros Boulet, Eleventh Degree. At 
 this point, the ball or bullet will be harder 
 when cold than at the last. 
 
 Casse, Twelfth Degree. Prove as 
 above; the bullet should crumble between 
 the fingers, and on biting, will stick to the 
 teeth ; at the next point. 
 
 Caramel, Thirteenth Degree, It 
 should snap clean. This point is very diflS- 
 cult to attain, for in increasing the height, 
 the sugar is apt to burn ; it is better there- 
 fore to try the proof veiy frequently. 
 
 Another caramel is frequently used by the 
 coiirecti<jner, and is of a deep color; it is 
 made by putting a little water to die sugar, 
 and boiling it without skimming, or odier- 
 wise touching the sugar, till of the right 
 color, then take it off and use immediately. 
 
 If, on preparing the sugar, you happen to 
 miss the right point, add a little cold water, 
 and boil once more. 
 
 Observations. — The skimmer should 
 never be left in the preserving- pan after the 
 sugar is clarified, nor after the sciun is re- 
 moved. 
 
 Be very careful not to stir or disturb the 
 sugar, as that would cause its diminution. 
 
 In boiling the sugar (particularly the two 
 last degrees), the sugar is continually rising 
 and falling; and on falling, leaves marks on 
 die sides of the pan, which die heat of the 
 fire would soon burn, and thereby spoil the 
 
TRl 
 
 296 
 
 VAN 
 
 whole of the sugar ; to avoid this, have by 
 the side of you a pan of cold water, and a 
 sponge, with which wipe tlie sides of tlie 
 pan carefully, the instant after die sugar has 
 fallen. 
 
 SUGAR LIKE SNOW. Blanch a 
 quarter of a pound of bitter almonds, pound 
 tliem to a very fine paste in a marble mor- 
 tar, with the whites of four eggs; when 
 perfectly smooth, add a pound of the best 
 lump sugar (in powder), and five or six 
 more whites of eggs ; stir all together well, 
 until of such consistence that it may be 
 kneaded without adhering to the hands. 
 Divide this preparation into two parts, one 
 of which, tinge of a red color, either with 
 bolus armena, or cochineal, and perfume it 
 with essential oil of roses or bergamot; 
 leave the other portion of paste while, but 
 flavor it as follows: — grate the rind of two 
 fine sound lemons on a small piece of sugar, 
 scrape off the surface, and when pounded in 
 a small mortar, work it into the uncolored 
 
 Eortion of sugar-paste, then roll it out to about 
 alf an inch in thickness (having previously 
 sprinkled the slab with powder-sugar,) cut 
 it with a tin-paste cutter about two inches 
 diameter; arrange them on white paper, 
 which place on a baking tin, and put them 
 into a moderate oven for about three-quar- 
 ters of an hour ; proceed in the same manner 
 with the colored paste. When cold, detach 
 them from the paper. 
 
 SUGAR PASTE. Take a pound of 
 flour, a quarter of a pound of sugar, a quar- 
 ter of a pound of butter, a little salt, one 
 egg; mix all together with a little water. 
 This paste may be used for any second- 
 course dish. 
 « 
 
 T. 
 
 TABLET OF PATIENCE. Take 
 eight eggs, and whip the whites to a firm 
 snow; in the meantime have the yolks 
 beaten up with six ounces of powder-sugar; 
 (both these operations should be peiformed 
 for at least half an hour) ; tlien mix the two 
 together, add six ounces of sifted flour, and 
 when well incorporated, pour in half a pint 
 of rose or orange-flower water; stir the 
 whole together for some time. Have ready 
 some tin plates, well rubbed with butter; 
 take a funnel that has three or four tubes, 
 fill it with the paste, and push out your 
 tablets; when the tin plates are full, put 
 them into a pretty warm oven. When done, 
 take them from the tins whilst hot. 
 
 TRIFLE. (1) Sweeten three pints of 
 
 cream ; add to it half a pint of mountain wine, 
 grate in the rind of a lemon, squeeze in the 
 juice, and grate in half a nutmeg ; whisk this 
 up, lay the froth on a large sieve, and the sieve 
 over a dish that has ratafia cakes, maca- 
 roons, sweet almonds, blanched and pound- 
 ed, citron, and candied orange-|)eel, cut into 
 small pieces, some currant jelly, and rasp- 
 berry jam in it, that the liquor may run 
 upon them; when they are soaked, lay them 
 in the dish you intend to serve in, put on the 
 frotli as high as possible, well drained; 
 strew over nonpareils, and stick on little 
 slices of citron, orange, or lemon-peel. 
 
 TRIFLE. (2) Lay some macaroons 
 and ratafia drops over the bottom of your 
 dish, and soak them well with raisin wine, 
 when soaked, pour on them a very rich cold 
 custard. It must stand two or three inches 
 thick; on that put a layer of raspberry jam, 
 and cover the whole with a very high whip 
 made the preceding day, of rich cream, tlie 
 whites of two eggs, well beaten, sugar, lem- 
 on-peel, and raisin wine, well lx;at with a 
 whisk. It is best to make it tlie day before 
 it is wanted, being more solid and better 
 tasted. 
 
 TRIFLE. (3) Put half a pound of maca- 
 roons into a dish, pour over them some while 
 wine, and a pint of custard over that, make 
 a whip, and put on it; garnish according to 
 your fancy. 
 
 V. 
 
 VANILLA CREAM. Take two 
 drachms of vanilla, a quart of milk, the 
 yolks of three eggs, five ounces of sugar, and 
 a pint of cream ; beat up the eggs well with 
 the milk, and tlien add the other ingredients; 
 set the whole on a moderate fire, and stir it 
 constantly with a wooden spoon, till the 
 cream will adhere to it; then strain, and 
 serve it cold. 
 
 VANILLA CREAM, BOLTED. 
 
 Take as much cream as will fill the mould 
 you intend to use, and boil it up a few 
 times, with the proportionate quantities of 
 vanilla and sugar; then let it cool, and if 
 the mould will contain a (juart, mix twelve 
 yolks and three whole eggs with the cream, 
 and run it five times through a bolting cloth. 
 Butter the mould, pour the cream into it, 
 and place it in the bain marie, bui not too 
 hot; when the cream is set, which yon may 
 know by touching it gently with your finger, 
 turn it on a dish; take the reuiaintler of 
 the cr^am, stir it over the fire like white 
 
VER 
 
 297 
 
 vio 
 
 sauce, and as soon as it sticks to the spoon 
 (which must be of wood), tJike it off, stir it 
 an instant, and then pour it over tlie other 
 cream, and serve cold. 
 
 VANILLA CREAM WHIPPED. Put 
 a pinch of gum-dragon into a pint of cream, 
 add a small quantity of orange-flower water, 
 powder-sugar to tlie taste, and a little milk, 
 m which some vanilla has been boiled, and 
 the milk strained; whip these ingredients 
 with a whisk, until the whole is sufficiently 
 frothed ; tlien lay it carefully on a dish, in a 
 pyramidal form, and serve it. 
 
 VANILLA CREAM ICE. Whisk the 
 whites of twelve eggs to a firm froth in a 
 preserving pan, pour on them the yolks of 
 eight, and a pound of sifted sugar, whip the 
 whole well with a whisk, and pour in by de- 
 grees two quarts of boiling cream; continue 
 to whip it for some little lime, and then put 
 it on the fire, with half an ounce of vanilla 
 bruised; still whipping, when it has boiled 
 up three or four times, strain it, and fi-eeze 
 as usual. (See Ice.) 
 
 VANILLA CREAM LIQUEUR. 
 
 Dissolve over the fire two pounds ten ounces 
 of broken sugar, in three pints of purified 
 river water; when it has boiled up once, 
 pour it into a jar, on three drachms of va- 
 nilla, cut in pieces, and half a grain of amber. 
 When quite cold, add three pints of good 
 brandy, cover the vessel, and when it has 
 infused six days, color it with a little pre- 
 pared cochineal; filter, and bottle the li- 
 queur. Cork the bottles tight, and seal the 
 corks. 
 
 VANILLA STICKS. Take some 
 marchpane paste, a quarter of a poiuid of 
 chocolate, and the same of vanilla; mix 
 these well into the paste, and then form it 
 into sticks, like the vanilla in its original 
 form; lay tliem on a sheet of paper, and 
 bake in a slow oven. 
 
 VERDE. Infuse the rind of three lem- 
 ons and four oranges in two quarts of rum 
 or brandy, for four-and-twenty hours, close- 
 ly stopped ; then squeeze the juice through 
 a strainer; if the fruit is good, tliere will be 
 half a pint, and if there is not so much, make 
 it that; add to it a pound and a quarter of 
 sugar, pour to it three quarts of water, and 
 keep stirring till all the sugar is dissolved; 
 when it is dissolved, stir in the peel and 
 spirits, and then one pint of cold new milk; 
 pass it through a bag till clear; bottle it. 
 It will keep good for twelve months. 
 
 VERJUICE. (1) Verjuice is the young, 
 unripe, and sour grape; it is frequently 
 
 used in French cookery, but Tery rarely put 
 into English dishes. 
 
 VERJUICE. (2) Take some crab 
 apples when the kernels turn black, lay them 
 in a heap to sweat ; then pick them from 
 the stalks and rottenness, beat them to a 
 mash, and press the juice through a bag of 
 coarse hair cloth into a clean vessel ; it will 
 be fit for use in a month's time. If inten- 
 ded for white pickles, distil it in a cold still. 
 It may be put into sauces when lemon is 
 wanting. 
 
 VESPETRO. Take half a pound of 
 each of the following seeds: angelica, cori- 
 ander, fennel, and caraway, the rinds of 
 four lemons, and as many oranges, infuse all 
 these in two gallons and a half of the best 
 brandy, close the vessel hermetically. In 
 five days time, distil it in the bain marie 
 alembic, and draw from the above quantity 
 five quarts of liqueur. Dissolve seven 
 pounds of sugar in a gallon of pure river 
 water ; add this sirup to tlie liqueur, filter, 
 and bottle it. 
 
 VIOLETS CANDIED. Pick off the 
 green stalks from some double violets ; boil 
 some sugar to souffle; put in the violets, 
 and keep them in till the sugar again boilg 
 to souffle; then rub the sugar against the 
 sides of the pan until it is white ; stir all 
 together till the sugar leaves the violets, and 
 then sift and dry them. 
 
 VIOLETS TO ROCK CANDY. 
 
 Pick the leaves off the violets; then boil 
 some of die best, and finest sugar to souffle^ 
 pour it into a candying-pan made of tin, in 
 die fonn of a di'ipping-pan, about three inches 
 deep; then strew the violet leaves as thick 
 as possible on the top, and put it into a hot 
 stove, in which let it remain for ten days; 
 when it is hard candied, break a hole in one 
 corner of it, and drain off all the sirup; 
 break it out, and place it in heaps upon a 
 tin to dry in a stove. 
 
 VIOLETS, CONSERVE OF. Take 
 a quarter of a pound of early violets, picked ; 
 bruise them in a mortar; boil two pounds 
 of sugar to casse, take it off, put in the pulp, 
 and mix them together over the fire, and 
 when the sugar bubbles up, pour the conserve 
 into tlie moulds. 
 
 VIOLET DRpPS. (1) Take a cer- 
 tain quantity of sirup of violets, which mix 
 with an equal portion of water; use this 
 mixture, and make your drops precisely as 
 directed. You may, if you please, perfiime 
 it with oil of violets, but that is not neces- 
 sary, as the sirup, imparts sufficient odour 
 
VIO 
 
 298 
 
 WOR 
 
 VIOLET DROPS. (2) Take the 
 juice of six lemons, mix with it some finely 
 sifted powdered sugar, and two spoonfuls 
 of essence of violets, and color it of a fine 
 blue color; mix the whole well together, 
 and dry it over the fire, the same as all oth- 
 ers, and drop them off a knife on paper, the 
 usual size of drops; let them stand till cold, 
 be careful that your mixture is not too thin ; 
 when the drops are cold, put them into pa- 
 pered boxes. 
 
 VIOLETS, MARMALADE OF. Take 
 three pounds of violets, and four pounds of 
 sugar, put the former into a mortar and 
 bruise them to a pulp; in the meantime boil 
 tlie sugar to souffle, then add the flowers ; 
 «tir them together, add two pounds of ajiple 
 marmalade, and when it has boiled up a 
 few times, put the marmalade into pots. 
 
 VIOLETS, SIRUP OF. Pound jery 
 lightly in a marble mortar, and with a 
 wooden {jestle, one pound of picked violets; 
 warm gradually a glass, or earthenware ves- 
 sel with a small opening, into which put the 
 pounded flowers, and pour over them two 
 pounds of Ijoiling water; close ihe vessel 
 hermetically, and place it on liot ashes, re- 
 newing tliem when necessary, to keep up an 
 
 equal temperature for twelve hours; after 
 that time pass the whole through a close 
 cloth, squeezing it well ; let it stand for half 
 an hour; then pour it off very carefully, that 
 all the sediment may remain at the bottom; 
 weigh it, and the above quantities will have 
 yielded seventeen ounces ; put into a matrass 
 two pounds of crushed sugar with the infu- 
 sion, close the matrass tight, and set it in 
 the bain marie, over a moderate fire ; shake 
 it occasionally to accelerate the dissolution 
 of the sugar, and when perfectly dissolved, 
 let the fire go out and the matrass cool g-rad- 
 ually. When cold, pour the sirup into 
 bottles. 
 
 W. 
 
 WORMWOOD CREME LIQUEUR. 
 
 Distil in the bain-marie the zests of two 
 oranges, and half a jwund of fresh gathered 
 wormwood tops, in a gallon of brandy, 
 which will produce nearly half the quantity 
 of liqueur. Dissolve four pounds of sugar 
 in as many pints of filtered river water ; mix 
 this sirup with the liqueurs run it through 
 a jelly-bag, and bottle it. 
 
 ICF'Many receipts for Confectionery may be found in the fir^'. 
 part of this Book . '' ; 
 
EXPLANATION 
 
 Of some of the Terms m^de use of in the foregoing Pages. 
 
 Atelets — Small silver skewers. 
 
 Baba — A French sweet yeast cake. 
 
 Bain-Marie — See the word in its place. 
 
 Bouquet — A bunch of parsley and scallions tied up to put in soups, &c. 
 
 Bouquet garni, or Assaisonne — The same, with the addition of cloves and aromatic 
 
 herbs. 
 Bourguignote — A ragout of truffles. 
 Braise — See word iu its place. 
 
 Brioche — A French yeast cake. **' 
 
 Buisson — A whinasical method of dressing up pastry, &c. E 
 
 Capiloiade — A common hash of poultry. r« ▼ iw t^ 
 
 Caramel, see page 295. /SIT * 
 
 Casse, see page, 295. 
 
 Civet — A hash of game or wild fowl. Vf "t ^» 
 
 Compiegne — A French sweet yeast cake, with fruit, &c. &c. J ^ V»^^ 
 
 Compote — A fine mixed ragout to garnish white poultry, &c. ; also a mem^^flPlTOwing 
 
 fruit with sirup for desserts. 
 Compotier — A dish amongst the dessert service appropriated to the use of the compote. 
 Couronne — To serve any prescribed articles on a dish in the form of a crown. 
 Court or short (to stew) — To reduce a sauce very thick. 
 Crcustade — Bread baked in a mould, and scooped out to contain minces, &c. 
 Croutons — Bread cut in various shapes, and fried lightly in butter or oil. 
 Dorez — To wash pastry, &c. with yolk of egg well beaten. 
 Dorure — Yolks of eggs beaten well. 
 Entrees — Are dishes served at the commencement, or during the first course of the 
 
 dinner. 
 Entremets — Small ornamental dishes, served in the second and third courses. 
 Farce, stuffing. 
 
 Financiere — An expensive, highly-flavored, mixed ragout. 
 Flan — A French custard. 
 Glaze, {to fall to a) — To reduce sauces till they become a jelly, and adhere to the 
 
 meat. 
 Glaze — Is usually made from reduced consomme, or juices from the bottoms of braised 
 
 white meats; it should be presei-ved in jelly-pots. 
 Glaze, Glace, or Ice — Is composed of white of egg beaten with powder-sugar. 
 Godiiseau — A common veal forcemeat. 
 Grand Plume, see page 295. 
 Grand Perle, see page 295. 
 Grand Queue de Cochon, see page 295. 
 Gros Boulet, see page 295. 
 
 Gras (au) — Ti»is signifies that the article specified is dressed with meat gravy. 
 Graiin — A layer of some particular article is spread over a silver, or any other dish that 
 
 will bear die fire, and placed on a stove or hot ashes until it burns to it. 
 Hors d'ceuvre — A small dish, sei-ved during tlie first course. 
 Hatelets — The same as Atelets. 
 Lard — To stick bacon, or other specified articles, into poultry, meat, &c. ; it is done by 
 
 means of a larding-pin, one end of which is pointed, the other square, and hollow; 
 
 the lardon is put into this hollow, the point is then inserted into the meat, and on be- 
 ing drawn out, leaves the lardon standing up in its proper place. 
 Lardons — The pieces into which bacon and other things are cut, for the purpose of 
 
 larding meat, &c. &c. 
 Larding-pan — An utensil by means of which meat, &c. is larded. 
 Liaison — A finish with yolks of eggs and cream, for ragouts and sauces. 
 
SOO COOKERY TERMS EXPLAINED. 
 
 Liase, see page 295. 
 
 Madeleines — Cakes made of the same composition as pound>cakes. 
 
 Maigre — Soups, &c. dressed without meat. 
 
 Marinade — A prepared pickle for meat, fish, &c. 
 
 Mask — To cover completely. 
 
 Nouilles — An Italian paste, resembling macaroni; it is flat, instead of being in pipes. 
 
 Panada — Bread soaked in milk, used principally for quenelles and fine farces. 
 
 Passer — To irv lightly. 
 
 Pate — A raised crust pie. 
 
 Petit Boulet, see page 295. 
 
 Petit Lisse, see page 295. 
 
 Petit Perle, see page 295. 
 
 Petit Plume, see page 295. 
 
 Petit Queue de Cochon, see page 295. 
 
 Poele — A light braise for white meats. The difference between this and the bi-aise is, 
 that in the former the meat, or whatever it may be, need not be so much done as in 
 the latter. 
 
 Potage — Another term for soup. 
 
 Puree — Any meat, fish, or other article, boiled to a pulp, and rubbed through a sieve. 
 
 Quenelles — A fine farce; it is generally poached when used. 
 
 Salmi — A highly seasoned hash. 
 
 Sauter — To fry very lightly. 
 
 Sabotiere, or Sorbetiere — A pewter or tin vessel, in which are placed the moulds con- 
 taining the substance to be frozen. 
 
 Souffle, see page 295. 
 
 Tammy — A silk sieve. 
 
 Tourner, or Turn — To stir a sauce; also to pare and cut roots, vegetables, and fruits, 
 neatly. 
 
 Tourte — A puff-paste pie. 
 
 Vanner — ^To take up sauce, or other liquid, in a spoon, and turn it over quickly. 
 
SEVENTY-FIVE 
 
 RECEIPTS 
 
 FOA 
 
 PASTRY, CAKES, AND SWEETMEATS. 
 
 BY MISS LESLIE, OF PHILADELPHIA. 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 The following Receipts for Pastry, Cakes, and Sweetmeats, 
 are original, and have been used by the author and many of her 
 friends with uniform success. They are drawn up in a style so 
 plain and minute, as to be perfectly intelligible to servants, and 
 persons of the most moderate capacity. All the ingredients, with 
 their proper quantities, are enumerated in a list at the head of each 
 receipt, a plan which will greatly facilitate the business of procur- 
 ing and preparing the requisite articles. 
 
 There is frequently much difficulty in following directions in 
 English and French Cookery Books, not only from their want of 
 explicitness, but from the difference in the fuel, fire-places, and 
 cooking utensils, generally used in Europe and America; and 
 many of the European receipt-s are so complicated and laborious, 
 that our female cooks are afraid to undertake the arduous task of 
 making any thing from them. 
 
 The receipts in this little book are, in every sense of the word, 
 American; but the writer flatters herself that (if exactly follow- 
 ed) the articles produced from them will not be found inferior to 
 any of a similar description made in the European manner. Ex- 
 perience has proved, that pastry, cakes. Sec. prepared precisely 
 according to these directions will not fail to be' excellent: but 
 where economy is expedient^ a portion of the seasoning, that is, 
 the spice, wine, brandy, rose-water, essence of lemon, &.c. may 
 be omitted without any essential deviation of flavor, or difference 
 of appearance; retaining, however, the given proportions of eggs, 
 butter, sugar, and flour. 
 
 But if done at home, and by a person that can be trusted, it 
 will be proved, on trial, that any of these articles may be made in 
 the l^est and most liberal manner at one half of the cost of the 
 same articles supplied by a confectioner. And they will be found 
 particularly useful to families that live in the country or in small 
 towns, where nothing of the kind is to be purchased. 
 
PASTRY. 
 
 PRELIMINARY REMARKS. 
 
 In making pastry or cakes, it is best to begin by weighing out 
 the ingredients, sifting the flour, pounding and sifting the sugar 
 and spice, washing the butter, and preparing the fruit. 
 
 Sugar can be powdered by pounding it in a large mortar, or by 
 rolUng it on a paste-board with a roUing-pin. It should be made 
 very fine and always sifted. 
 
 All sorts of spice should be pounded in a mortar, except nutmeg, 
 which it is better to grate. If spice is wanted in large quantities, 
 it may be ground in a mill. 
 
 The butter should always be fresh and very good. Wash it in 
 cold water before you use it, and then make it up with your hands 
 into hard lumps, squeezing the water well out. 
 
 If the butter and sugar are to be stirred together, always do 
 that before the eggs are beaten, as (unless they are kept too warm) 
 the butter and sugar will not be injured by standing awhile. For 
 stirring them, nothing is so convenient as a round hickory stick 
 about a foot and a half long, and somewhat flattened at one end. 
 
 The eggs should not be beaten till after all the other ingredients 
 are ready, as they will fall very soon. If the whites and yolks are 
 to be beaten separately, do the whites first, as they will stand 
 longer. 
 
 Eggs should be beaten in a broad shallow pan, spreading wide 
 at the top. Butter and sugar should be stirred in a deep pan with 
 straight sides. 
 
 Break every egg by itself, in a saucer, before you put it into the 
 pan, that in case there should be any bad ones, they may not spoil 
 the others. 
 
 Eggs are beaten most expeditiously with rods. A small quantity 
 of white of egg may be beaten with a knife, or a three-pronged 
 fork. 
 
 There can be no positive rules as to the exact time of baking 
 each article. Skill in baking is the result of practice, attention, 
 and experience. Much, of course, depends on the state of the 
 fire, and on the size of the things to be baked, and something on 
 the thickness of the pans or dishes. 
 
 If you bake in a stove, put some bricks in the oven part to set 
 the pans or plates on, and to temper the heat at the bottom. Large 
 sheets of iron, without sides, will be found very useful for small 
 cakes, and to put under the pans or plates. 
 
PASTRY. 
 
 PUFF PASTE. 
 
 Half a pound and two ounces of sifted flour. 
 Half pound of best fresh butter, washed. 
 A little cold water. 
 
 This will make puff-paste for two Pud- 
 dings, or for one soup-plate Pie, or 
 for four small Shells. 
 
 Weigh half a pound and two ounces of 
 flour, and sift it through a hair-sieve into 
 a large deep dish. Take out about one 
 fourth of the flour, and lay it aside on one 
 corner of your paste-board, to roll and 
 sprinkle with. 
 
 Wash, in cold water, half a pound of 
 the best fresh butter. Squeeze it hard with 
 
 J 'Our hands, and make it up into a round 
 ump. Divide it in four equal parts ; lay 
 them on one side of your paste-board, and 
 have ready a glass of cold water. 
 
 Cut one of the four pieces of butter into 
 the pan of flour. Cut it as small as possi- 
 ble. Wet it gradually with a very little 
 water (too much water will make it tough) 
 and mix it well with the point of a large 
 case-knife. Do not touch it with your 
 hands. When the dough gets into a lump, 
 sprinkle on the middle of the board some 
 of the flour that you laid aside, and lay the 
 dough upon it, turning it out of the pan 
 with the knife. 
 
 Rub the rolling-pin with flour, and sprin- 
 kle a little on the lump of paste. Roll it 
 out thin, quickly, and evenly, pressing on 
 the rolling-pin very lightly. Then take 
 the second of the four pieces of butter, and, 
 with the point of your knife, stick it in 
 little bits at equal distances all over the 
 sheet of paste. Sprinkle on some flour, 
 and fold up the dough. Flour the paste- 
 board and rolling-pin again ; throw a little 
 flour on the paste and roll it out a second 
 time. Stick the third piece of butter all 
 over it in little bits. Throw on some flour, 
 fold up the paste, sprinkle a little more 
 flour on the dough, and on the rolling-pin, 
 and roll it out a third time, always pressing 
 on it lightly. Stick it over with the fourth 
 and last piece of butler. Throw on a little 
 more flour, fold up the paste and then roll 
 it out in a large round sheet. Cut off" the 
 sides, so as to make the sheet of a square 
 form, and lay the slips of dough upon the 
 square sheet. Fold it up with the small 
 pieces of trimmings, in the inside. Score 
 or notch it a little with the knife; lay it 
 on a plate and set it away in a cool place, 
 but not where it can freeze, as that will 
 make it heavy. 
 
 Having made tlie paste, prepare and mix 
 
 your pudding or pie. When the mixture 
 is finished, bring out your paste, flour the 
 board and rolling-pin, and roll it out with 
 a short quick stroke, and pressing the rol- 
 ling-pin rather harder than while you w^le 
 putting the butter in. If the paste rises in 
 blisters, it will be light, unless .spoiled in 
 baking. 
 
 Then cut the sheet m half, fold up each 
 piece and roll them out once more, separ- 
 ately, in round sheets the size of your plate« j 
 Press on rather harder, but not too hard. 
 Roll the sheets thinnest in the middle and 
 thickest at the edges. If intended for pud- 
 dings, lay them in buttered soup-plates, and 
 trim them evenly round the edges. If the 
 edges do not appear thick enough, you may 
 take the trimmings, put them all together, 
 roll them out, and having cut them in slips 
 the breadth of the rim of the plate, lay 
 them all round to make the paste thicker 
 at the edges, joining them nicely and even- 
 ly, as every patch or crack will appear dis- 
 tinctly when baked. Notch the rim hand- 
 somely with a very sharp knife. Fill the 
 dish with the mixture of the pudding, and 
 bake it in a moderate oven. The paste 
 should be of a light brown color. If the 
 oven is too slow, it will be soft and clammy ; , 
 if too quick, it will not have time to rise 
 as high as it ought to do. 
 
 In making the best puff-paste, try to avoid 
 using more flour to sprinkle and roll with, 
 than the small portion which you have laid 
 aside for that purpose at the beginning. . 
 If you make the dough too soft at first, by 
 using too much water, it will be sticky, and 
 require more flour, and will eventually be 
 tough when baked. Do not put your hands 
 to it, as their warmth will injure it. Use 
 the knife instead. Always roll from you 
 rather than to you, and press lightly on the 
 rolling-pin, except at the last. 
 
 It is difficult to make puff-paste in the 
 summer, unless in a cellar, or very cool 
 room, find on a marble table. The butter 
 should, if possible, be washed the night 
 before, and kept covered with ice till you 
 use it next day. The water should have 
 ice in it, and the butter should be iced as it 
 sets on the paste-board. After the paste is 
 mixed, it should be put in a covered dish, 
 and set in cold water till you are ready to 
 give it the last rolling. 
 
 With all these precautions to prevent its 
 being heavy, it will not rise as well, or be 
 in any respect as good as in cold weather. 
 
 The handsomest way of ornamenting the 
 edge of a pie or pudding is to cut the rim 
 in large square notches, and then fold over' 
 triangularly one corner of every notch. 
 
PIES AND TARTS. 
 
 COMMON PASTE FOR PIES. 
 
 '¥■■ ■ 
 
 ^'il pound and a half of sifted flour. 
 Three quarters of a pound of butter, washed. 
 
 This will make one large pie or two small 
 ones. 
 
 Sift the flour into a pan. Cut the butler 
 into two equal parts. Cut one half of the 
 butter into the flour, and cut it up as small 
 as possible. Mix it well with the flour, 
 wetting it gradually with a little cold 
 water. 
 
 Spread some flour on your paste-board, 
 take the luuip of paste out of the pan, 
 flour your rolling-pin, and roll outtlie paste 
 into a large sheet. Then stick it over with 
 the remaining half of the butter in small 
 pieces, and laid at equal distances. Tluow 
 on a little flour, fold up the sheet of paste, 
 
 flour it slightly, and roll it out again. 
 Then fold it up, and cut it in half or in 
 four, according to the size of your pies- 
 Roll it out into round sheets the size of 
 your pie-plates, pressing rather hai'der on 
 the rolling-pin. 
 
 Butter your pie-plates, lay on your under 
 crust, and trim the edge. Fill the dish 
 witli the ingredients of which the pie is 
 composed, and lay on the lid, in which you 
 must prick some holes, or cut a small slit 
 in tiie top» Crimp the edges with a sharp 
 knife. 
 
 Heap up the ingredients so that the pie 
 will be highest in the middle. 
 
 Some think it makes common paste more 
 crisp and ligiit, to beat it hard on both sides 
 with the rolling-pin, after you give it the 
 first rolling, when all the butter is in. 
 
 If the butter is very fresh, you may mix 
 vyith, the flour a salt-spoonful of salt.. 
 
 PIES AND TARTS. 
 
 MINCE PIES. 
 
 Two pounds of boiled beef's heart, or fresh 
 tongue, or lean fresh beef — chopped when 
 cold. 
 
 Two pounds of beef suet, chopped fine. 
 
 Four pounds of pippin apples, chopped. 
 
 Two pounds of raisins, stoned and chopped. 
 
 Two pounds of currants, picked, washed, 
 and dried. 
 
 Two pounds of powdered sugar. 
 
 One quart of white wine. 
 
 One quart of brandy. 
 
 One wine-glass of rose-water» 
 
 Two grated nutmegs. 
 
 Half an ounce of cinnamon ^ 
 
 A quarter of an ounce of cloves > powdered. 
 
 A (juarter of an ounce of mace * 
 
 A tea-spoonful of salt. 
 
 Two large oranges. 
 
 Half a pound of citron, cut in slips. 
 
 Parboil a beef's heart, or a fre.sh tongue. 
 After you have taken off the skin and fat, 
 weigh two pounds. When it is colJ,cliop 
 it very fine. Take the inside of the suet; 
 weigh two pounds, and cliop it as fine as 
 possible. Mix the meat and suet togetiier, 
 adding the salt. Pare, c<jre, an<l clioj) the 
 apples, and then stone and chop the raisins. 
 Having prepared die curi>ants, add them to 
 the other fruit, and mix the- fruit with the 
 meat and suet. Put in the sugai^and spice, 
 and the grated peel and juice of the oranges. 
 Wet the whole with the rose water and 
 liquor, and mix all well together. 
 
 Do not put in the citron till you are filP- 
 ing the pies: then lay it on the top. 
 
 Make the paste, allowing for each pie, 
 half a pound of butter and three quarters 
 of a pound of sifted flour. Make it in the 
 same manner as puff-paste, but it will not 
 be (juite so rich.. Lay a.slieet of paste all 
 over a soup-plale. Fill it with mince-meat, 
 laying slips of citron on the top. Rollout 
 a sheet of paste, for the lid of the pie. 
 Put it on, and. crimp the edges with a knife. 
 Prick holes in the lid. 
 
 Bake the pies half' an hour in a brisk 
 oven. — 
 
 Keep your ujince meat in a jar tightly 
 covered. Set it in a dry, cool place, and 
 occasionally add more brandy to it. 
 
 Instead of the heart or tongue, you may, 
 if you choose,, use part of a round of fresh 
 beef.. 
 
 OYSTER PIE. 
 
 A iiuiidred. largo fresh oysters, or more if 
 
 small. 
 T!ie yolks of six eggs boiled hard. 
 A large slice of stale-bread, grated-.. 
 A tea-.spoonfid of salt. 
 A table-spoonful of pepper. 
 A table-spoonlul of mixed spice, nutmeg,. 
 
 mace and cinnamon. 
 
 Take a large round dish, butter it, and 
 spread a rich paste over the sides, aad 
 round the edge, but not at the bottom. 
 
6 
 
 PIES AND TARTS. 
 
 Salt oysters will not do for pies. They 
 should be fresh, and as large and fine as 
 possible. 
 
 Drain off part of the liquor from the 
 oysters. Put them into a pan, and season 
 them with pepper, salt and spice. Stir 
 them well with the seasoning. Have ready 
 the yolks of eggs, chopped fine, and the 
 grated bread. Pour the oystei's (with as 
 much of their liquor as you please) into 
 the dish that has the paste in it. Strew 
 over them the chopped egg and grated 
 bread. 
 
 Roll out the lid of the pie, and put it on, 
 crimping the edges handsomely. 
 
 Take a small sheet of paste, cut it into 
 a square and roll it up. Cut it with a 
 sharp knife into the form of a double tulip. 
 
 Make a slit in the centre of the upper 
 crust, and stick the tulip in it. 
 
 Cut out eight large leaves of paste, and 
 lay them on the lid. 
 
 Bake the pie in a (juick oven. 
 
 If you think the oysters will be too much 
 done by baking them in the crust, you can 
 substitute for them, pieces of bread, to keep 
 up the lid of the pie. 
 
 Put the oysters with their liquor and the 
 seasoning, chopped egg, grated bread, &c. 
 into a pan. Cover them closely, and let 
 them just come to a boil, taking them off' 
 the fire, and stirring them frequently. 
 
 When the ciust is baked, take the lid 
 neatly off (loosening it round the edge with 
 a knife) take out the pieces of bread, and 
 put in the oysters. Lav the lid on again 
 very carefully. 
 
 For oyster patties, the oysters are pre- 
 pared in tlie same manner. 
 
 They may be chopped if you choose. 
 They must be put in small shells of pufF- 
 paste. 
 
 OYSTER PATTIES. 
 
 Make some rich puff-paste, and bake it 
 in very small tin patty pans. When cool, 
 turn them out upon a large dish. 
 
 Stew some large fresh oysters with a ft;w 
 cloves, a little mace and nutmeg, some yolk 
 of egg boiled hard and grated, a little but- 
 ter, and as much of the oyster li<juor as 
 will cover them. Whcii they have stewed 
 a little while, take them out of the ])an, 
 and set- them away to cool. W'hen quite 
 cold, lay two or three oysters in each shell 
 of puff-paste. 
 
 FRUIT PIES. 
 
 Fruit pies for family use, are generally 
 made with common paste, allowing three 
 
 quarters of a pound of butter to a pound 
 and a half of flour. 
 
 Peaches and plums, for pies, should be 
 cut in half, and the stones taken out. 
 Cherries also should be stoned, and red 
 cherries only should be used for pies. 
 
 Apples should be cut into very thin slices, 
 and aie much improved by a little lemon- 
 peel. Sweet apples are not good for pies, 
 as they are very insipid when baked, and 
 seldom get thoroughly done. If green 
 apples are used, they should first be slewed 
 in as little water as possible, and made 
 very sweet. 
 
 Apples, stewed previous to baking, should 
 not be done till they break, but only till 
 they arc tender. They should then be 
 drained in a cullender, and chopped fine 
 with a knife or the edge of a spoon. 
 
 In making pies of juicy fruit, it is a good 
 way to set a small tea-cup on the bottom 
 crust, and lay the fruit all round it. The 
 juice will collect under the cup, and not 
 run out at the edges or top of the pie. 
 The fruit should be mixed with a sufficient 
 quantity of sugar, and piled up in the mid- 
 dle, so as to make the pie highest in the 
 centre. The upper crust should be pricked 
 with a fork, or have a slit cut in the middle. 
 The edges should be nicely crimped with a 
 knife. 
 
 Dried peaches, dried apples, and cran- 
 berries should be stewed with a very little 
 water, and allowed to get quite cold before 
 they are put into die pie. If stewed fruit 
 is put in warm, it will make the paste heavy. 
 
 if your pies aie made in the foi-m of 
 shells, or without lids, the fruit should al- 
 ways be stewed first, or it will not he suf- 
 ficiently done, as the shells (which should 
 be of puff-paste) nnist not bake so long as 
 coveied pies. 
 
 Shells intended for sweetmeats, must b^' 
 baked empty, and the fruit put into them 
 before they go lo table. 
 
 Fruit pics witii lids, should have loaf- 
 sugar grated over them. If they have 
 been baked the day bef )re, tliey should be 
 warmed in the stove, or near the fire, be- 
 fore they are sent to table, to soften the 
 crust, and make them taste fresh. 
 
 Ra>pberry and apple-pies are much im- 
 proved by taking oil" the lid, and pouring 
 in a little cream, just before they go to ta- 
 ble. Replace the lid very carefully. 
 
 PliS'E-APPLE TART. 
 
 One large pine-apple, or two small ones. 
 Half a pound of powdered white sugar. 
 Half a pint of cream. 
 
 Pare your pine-apple, cut it in small 
 pieces, and leave out the core. Mix the 
 
PUDDINGS. 
 
 pine-apple with the sugar, and set it away 
 in a covered dish till sulBcient juice is 
 drawn out to stew the fruit in. 
 
 Make and bake two shells of puff-paste 
 in soup-plates. 
 
 Stew the pine-apple in the sugar and 
 juice till quite soft; then mash it to a mar- 
 malade with the back of a spoon, and set 
 it away to cool. 
 
 Wlieii tlie shells are baked and cool, 
 mix the pine-apple with half a pint of 
 cream, and fill the shells with it. Grate 
 loaf-sugar over the top. 
 
 These tarts are very fine. 
 
 If your pine-apple is not of the largest 
 size, one will not be sufficient for two 
 tarts. 
 
 PEACH TART. 
 
 Take ripe juicy free-stone peaches, pare 
 them, and cut them into small pieces; of 
 course leave out the stones, half of which 
 must be cracked, and the kernels blanched 
 and mixed with the peaches. Mix in a 
 sufficient quantity of sugar to make them 
 very sweet, and set the peaches away till 
 tlie sugar draws out the juice. Then 
 stew them (without water) till quite soft. 
 Take them out, mash them with the back 
 of a spoon, and set them away to cool. 
 
 Have ready some shells of fine puff-paste, 
 baked of a light brown. When cool, put 
 the peaches into the shells; having first 
 mixed the stewed fruit with some cream. 
 Grate white sugar over lliem. 
 
 You may substitute for the kernels a 
 handful of fresh peach-leaves, stewed with 
 the fruit and then taken out. The kernels 
 or leaves will greatly improve the flavor of 
 tlie peaches. 
 
 Peach-leaves may be kept fresh in water 
 for two or tliree days. 
 
 BEEF-STEAK PIE. 
 
 Butter a deep dish, and spread a sheet 
 of paste all over the bottom, sides, and 
 edge. 
 
 Cut away from your beef-steak all the 
 bone, fat, gristle, and skin. Cut the lean 
 in small thin pieces, about as large, gener- 
 ally, as the palm of your hand. Beat the 
 meat well with the rolling-pin, to make it 
 juicy and tender. If you put in the fat, it 
 will make the gravy too greasy and strong, 
 as it cannot be skimmed. 
 
 Put a layer of meat over the bottom- crust 
 of your dish, and season it to your taste, 
 with pepper, salt, and, if you choose, a 
 little nutmeg. A small quantity of mush- 
 room ketchup is an improvement j so also, 
 is a little minced onion. 
 
 Have ready some cold boiled potatoes 
 sliced thin. Spread over the meat a layer 
 of potatoes, and a small piece of butter; 
 then another layer of meat, seasoned, and 
 then a layer of potatoes, and so on till the 
 dish is full and heaped up in the middle, 
 having a layer of meat on the top. Pour 
 in a little water. 
 
 Cover the pie with a sheet of paste, and 
 trim the edges. Notch it handsomely with 
 a knife; and, if you choose, make a tulip 
 of paste, and stick it in the middle of the 
 lid, and lay leaves of paste round it. 
 
 Fresh oysters will greatly improve a 
 beef-steak pie. So also will mushrooms. 
 
 Any meat pie may be made in a similar 
 manner. 
 
 PUDDINGS. 
 
 PLUM PUDDING. 
 
 One pound of raisins, stoned and cut in 
 
 half. 
 One pound of currants, picked, washed and 
 
 dried. 
 One p<^)und of beef suet chopped fine. 
 One pound of grated stale bread, or, half a 
 
 pound of fiour and half a pound of bread. 
 Eight eggs. 
 One pound of sugar. 
 A glass of brandy. 
 A pint of milk. 
 A glass of wine. 
 
 Two nutmegs, grated. 
 
 A table-spoonful of mixed cinnamon and 
 
 mace. 
 A salt-spoonful of salt. 
 
 You must prepare all your ingredients 
 the day before (except beating the eggs) 
 that in the morning you may have nothing 
 to do but to mix thein, as the pudding will 
 re(|uire six hours to boil. 
 
 Beat the eggs very light, then put to them 
 half the milk and beat both together. Stir 
 in gradually the flour and grated bread. 
 Next add the sugar by degrees. Then the 
 
PUDDINGS. 
 
 suet and fruit alternately. The fruit must 
 be well sprinkled with flour, lest it sink to 
 the bottom. Stir very hard. Then add 
 the spice and liquor, and lastly the remain- 
 der of the milk. Stir the whole mixture 
 very well together. If it is not thick 
 enough, add a little more grated bread or 
 flour. If there is too much bread or flour, 
 tlie pudding will be hard and heavy. 
 
 Dip your pudding-cloth, in boiling water, 
 shake it out and sprinkle it slightly with 
 flour. Lay it in a pan and pour the mix- 
 ture into the cloth. Tie it up carefully, 
 allowing room for the pudding to swell. 
 
 Boil it six hours, and turn it carefully 
 out of the cloth. 
 
 Before you send it to table, have ready 
 some blanched sweet almonds cut in slips, 
 or some slips of citron, or both. Stick 
 them all over the outside of the pudding. 
 
 Eat it with wine, or with a sauce made 
 of drawn butter, wine and nutmeg. 
 
 The pudding will be improved if you add 
 to the other ingredients, the grated rind of 
 a large lemon or orange. 
 
 LEMON PUDDING. 
 
 One small lemon, with a smooth thin rind. 
 Three eggs. 
 
 A quarter pound of powdered white sugar. 
 A quarter pound of fresh butter — washed. 
 A table-spoonful of white wine and brandy, 
 
 mixed. 
 A tea-spoonful of rose-water. 
 
 Five ounces of sifted flour, and a quarter 
 of a pound of fresh butter for die paste. 
 
 Grate the yellow part of the rind of a 
 small fresh lemon. Then cut the lemon in 
 half, and squeeze the juice into ihe plate 
 that contains the gi-ated rind, carefully tak- 
 ing out all the seeds. Mix the juice and 
 rind together. 
 
 Put a (juarter of a pound of powdered 
 white sugar into a deep earthen j)an, and 
 cut up in it a quarter of a ])ouud of the 
 best fresh butter. If the weather is very 
 cold, set the pan near the fire, for a few 
 uiinutes, to soften the l)Mtter, but do not 
 allow it to melt or it will lie lieavy. Stir 
 the butter and sugar togedicr, with a stick 
 or wooden sjioon, till it is perfectly light 
 and of the consistence of cream. 
 
 Put the eggs in a shallow broad pan, and 
 beat them with an egg-boater or rods, till 
 they are (juite smooth, and as thick as a 
 boiled custard. Then stir the eggs, grad- 
 ually, into tlie pan of butler and sugar. 
 Add the liquor and rose-water by degrees, 
 and then stir in, gradually, the juice and 
 grated rind of the lemon. Stir the whole 
 very hard, after all the ingredients are in. 
 
 Have ready a puff-paste made of Ave 
 ounces of sifted flour, and a quarter of a 
 pound of fresh butter. The paste must be 
 made with as little water as possible. Roll 
 it out in a circular sheet, thin in the centre, 
 and thicker towards the edges, and just 
 large enough to cover the bottom, sides, 
 and edges of a soup-plate. Butter the 
 soup-plate very well, and lay the paste in 
 it, making it neat and eveii round the broad 
 edge of the plate. With a sharp knife, 
 trim off the superfluous dough, and notch 
 the edges. Put in the mixture with a 
 spoon, and bake the pudding about half an 
 hour, in a moderate oven. It should be 
 baked of a very light brown. If the oven 
 is too hot, the paste will not have time to 
 rise well. If too cold, it will be clammy. 
 When the pudding is cool, grate loaf sugar 
 over it. 
 
 Before using lemons for any purpose, 
 always roll them awhile with your hand on 
 a table. This will cause them to yield a 
 larger quantity of juice. 
 
 ALMOND PUDDING. 
 
 Half a pound of sweet almonds, which will 
 
 be reduced to a quarter of a pound, when 
 
 shelled and blanched. 
 An ounce of blanched bitter almonds or 
 
 peach-kernels. 
 The whites only, of six eggs. 
 A quarter of a pound of butter. 
 A quarter pound of powdered white sugar. 
 A table-spoonful of mixed brandy, wine, 
 
 and rose-water. 
 
 Shell half a pound of sweet almonds, 
 and pour scalding water over thpm, which 
 will make the skins peal ofl'. As they get 
 cool, pour more boiling water, till the al- 
 monds are all blanched. Blanch also the 
 bitter almonds. As you blanch the almonds, 
 throw them into a bowl of cold water. 
 Then take them out, one by one, wipe them 
 dry in a clean towel, and lay them on u 
 plate. Pound them one at a lime to a fine 
 paste, in a marble mortar, adding, as you 
 pound them, a few drops of rose-water to 
 prevent their oiling. Pound the bitter and 
 s^veot almonds alternately, that they may 
 be well mixed. They must be made per- 
 fectly fine and smooth, and are the better 
 for being jnepared the day Ixjfbre they are 
 wanted lor the pudding. 
 
 Stir the butter and sugar to a cream, and 
 add to it, gradually, the licjuor. 
 
 Beat the whites of six eggs till they stand 
 alone. Stir the almonds and white of eggs, 
 alternately, into the butter and sugar; and 
 then stir the whole well together. 
 
 Have ready a puff-paste suflicient for a 
 soup-plate. Butter the pkite, lay on the 
 
PUDDINGS. 
 
 9 
 
 paste, trim and notch it. Then put in the 
 mixture. 
 
 Bake it about half an hour in a modei-- 
 ate oven. 
 
 Grate loaf-sugar over it. 
 
 ORANGE PUDDING. 
 
 One large orange, of a deep color, and 
 
 smooth thin rind. 
 One lime. 
 
 A quarter pound of powdered white sugar. 
 A quarter of a pound of fresh butter. 
 Three eggs. 
 
 A table-spoonful of mixed wine and brandy. 
 A tea-spoonful of rose-water. 
 
 Grate the yellow rind of the orange and 
 lime, and squeeze the juice into a saucer or 
 soup-plate, taking out all the seeds. 
 
 Stir the butter and sugar to a cream. 
 
 Beat the eggs as light as possible, and 
 then stir them by degrees into the pan of 
 butter and sugar. Add, gradually, the li- 
 quor and rose-water, and then by degrees, 
 the orange and lime. Stir all w^ll to- 
 getiier. 
 
 Have ready a sheet of puff-paste made 
 of five ounces of sifted flour, and a quarter 
 of a pound of fresh butter. Lay the paste 
 in a buttered soup-plate. Trim and notch 
 the edges, and then put in the mixture. 
 Bake it about half an hour, in a moderate 
 oven. Grate loaf-sugar over it, before you 
 Bend it to table. 
 
 COCOA-NUT PUDDING. 
 
 A quarter of a pound of cocoa-nut, grated. 
 A quarter pound of powdered white sugar. 
 Three ounces and a half of fresh butter. 
 The whites only of six eggs. 
 A table-spoonful of wine and brandy mixed. 
 Half a tea-spoonful of rose-water. 
 
 Break up a cocoa-nut, and take the thin 
 brown skin carefully off, with a knife. 
 Wash all the pieces in cold water, and 
 then wipe them dry, with a clean towel. 
 Weigh a quarter of a pound of cocoa-nut, 
 and grate it very fine, into a soup-plate. 
 
 Stir the butter and sugar to a cream, and 
 add the liquor and rose-water gradually to 
 them. 
 
 Beat the whites only, of six eggs, till 
 they stand alone on the rods; and then stir 
 the beaten white of egg, gradually, into 
 the bqtter and sugar. Afterwards, sprinkle 
 in^ by degrees, the grated cocoa-nut, stirring 
 hard all the time. Then stir all very well 
 at the last. 
 
 Have ready a puff-paste, sufficient to 
 
 cover the bottom, sides, and edges of a 
 soup-plate. Put in the mixture, and bake 
 it in a moderate oven, about half an 
 hour. 
 
 Grate loaf-sugar over it, when cool. 
 
 SWEET POTATO PUDDING. 
 
 A quarter of a pound of boiled sweet potato. 
 Three eggs. 
 
 A quarter pound of powdered white sugar. 
 A quarter of a pound of fresh butter. 
 A glass of mixed wine and brandy. 
 A half-glass of rose-water. 
 A tea-spoonful of mixed spice, nutmeg, 
 mace and cinnamon. 
 
 Pound the spice, allowing a smaller pro- 
 portion of mace than of nutmeg and cin- 
 namon. 
 
 Boil and peal some sweet potatoes, and 
 when they are cold, weigh a quarter of a 
 pound. Mash the sweet potato very 
 smooth, and rub it through a sieve. Stir 
 the sugar and butter to a cream. 
 
 Beat the eggs very light, and stir them 
 into the butter and sugar, alternately with 
 the sweet potato. Add by degrees the li- 
 quor, rose-water and spice. Stir all very 
 hard together. 
 
 Spread pufll'-paste on a soup-plate. Put 
 in the mixture, and bake it about half an 
 hour in a moderate oven, 
 
 Grate sugar over it. 
 
 PUMPKIN PUDDING. 
 
 Half a pound of stewed pumpkin. 
 
 Three eggs. 
 
 A quarter of a pound of fresh butter, or a 
 
 pint of cream. 
 A quarter pound of powdered white surar. 
 Half a glass of wine and brandy mixed. 
 Half a glass of rose-water. 
 A tea-spoonful of mixed spice, nutmeg, 
 
 mace and cinnamon. 
 
 Stew some pumpkin with as little water 
 as possible. Drain it in a cullender, and 
 press it till dry. When cold, weigh half a 
 pound, and pass it through a sieve. Pro- 
 pare the spice. Stir together the sugar, 
 and butter, or cream, till they are perfectly 
 light. Add to them, gradually, the spice 
 and liquor. 
 
 Beat three eggs very light, and stir them 
 into the butter and sugar alternately with 
 the pumpkin. 
 
 Cover a soup-plate with puff-pagte, and 
 put in the mixture. Bake it in a moder- 
 ate oven (tbout half an hour. 
 
 Grate sugar over it, when cool, 
 
10 
 
 PUDDINGS. 
 
 Iniitead of the butter, you may boil a pint 
 of milk or cream, and when cold, stir into 
 it in turn the sugar, eggs, and pumpkin. 
 
 GOOSEBERRY PUDDING. 
 
 A pint of stewed gooseberries, with all their 
 
 juice. 
 A quarter of a pound of powdered sugar. 
 Two ounces of fresh butter. 
 Two ounces of grated bread. 
 Three eggs. 
 
 Stew the gooseberries till quite soft. 
 When they ai-e cold, mash them fine with 
 the back of a spoon, and stir into them two 
 ounces of sugar. Take two ounces more 
 of sugar, and stir it to a cream with two 
 ounces of butter. 
 
 Grate very fine, as much stale bread as 
 will weigh two ounces. 
 
 Beat three eggs, and stir them into the 
 butter and sugar, in turn witli the goose- 
 berries and bread. 
 
 Lay puff-paste in a soup-plate. Put in 
 tlie mixture, and bake it half an hour. 
 
 Do not grate sugar over it. 
 
 BAKED APPLE PUDDING. 
 
 A pint of stewed apples. 
 
 Half a pint of cream, or two ounces of butter. 
 
 A quarter of a pound of powdered sugar. 
 
 A nutmeg, grated. 
 
 A table-spoonful of rose-water. 
 
 A tea-spoonful of grated lemon-peel. 
 
 Stew your apple in as little water as pos- 
 sible, and not long enough for the pieces to 
 break and lose their shape. Put them in 
 a cullender to drain, and mash them with 
 the back of a spoon. If stewed too long, 
 and in too much water, they will lose their 
 flavor. When cold, mix with them the 
 nutmeg, rose-water, and lemon-peel, and 
 two ounces of sugar. Stir tlie other two 
 ounces of sugar, with the butter or cream, 
 and then mix it gradually with the apple. 
 
 Bake it in pulT-paste, in a soup-dish, 
 about half an hour in a moderate oven. 
 
 Do not sugar the top. 
 
 BATTER PUDDING. 
 
 Six eggs. 
 
 One pound of sifted flour. 
 
 One quart of milk. 
 
 A salt-spoonful of salt. 
 
 Stir the flour, gradually, into tlie milk 
 carefully dissolving all the lumps. Beat 
 
 the eggs very light, and add them by de- 
 grees to the milk and flour. Put in the 
 salt, and stir the whole well together. 
 
 Take a very thick pudding-cloth. Dip 
 it in boiling water, and flour it. Pour into 
 it the mixture and tie it up, leaving room 
 for it to swell. Boil it hard, one hour, and 
 keep it in the pot, till it is time to send it 
 to table. Serve it up with wine-sauce. 
 
 A square cloth, which when tied up will, 
 make the pudding of a round form, is bet- 
 ter than a bag. > 
 
 Apple Batter Pudding is made by pour- 
 ing the batter over a dish of pippins, pared, 
 cored, and sweetened, either whole or cut 
 in pieces. Bake it, and eat it with butter 
 and sugar. 
 
 INDIAN PUDDING. 
 
 A pound of beef-suet, chopped very fine. 
 
 A piiit of molasses. 
 
 A pint of rich milk. 
 
 Four eggs. 
 
 A large tea-spoonful of powdered nutmeg 
 
 and cinnamon. 
 A little grated or chipped lemon-peel. 
 Indian meal sufficient to make a thick batter^^. 
 
 Warm the milk and molasses, and stir 
 them together. Beat the eggs, and stir 
 them gradually into the jnilk and molasses, 
 in turn with the suet and Indian meal. 
 Add the spice and lemon-jjeel, and stir all 
 very hard together Take care not to put 
 too much Indian meal, or the pudding will 
 be heavy and solid. 
 
 Dij) the cloth in boiling water. Shake 
 it out, and flour it slightly. Pour the mix- 
 ture into it, and tie it up, leaving room for 
 the pudding to swell. Boil it three hours. 
 Serve it up hot, and eat it with sauce made 
 of drawn butter, wine and nutmeg. 
 
 When cold, it is very good cut in slices 
 and fried. 
 
 BREAD PUDDING. 
 
 A quarter pound of grated stale bread. 
 A (juart of milk, boiled with two or three 
 
 sticks of cinnamon, slightly broken. 
 Eight eggs. 
 
 A (juarter of a pound of sugar. 
 A little grated lemon- peel. 
 Two ounces of butter. 
 
 Boil the milk with the cinnamon, strain 
 it, and set it away till quite cold. Mix 
 the butter and sugar. 
 
 Grate as much crumb of stale-bread aa 
 will weigh a quarter of a pound. Beat 
 
PUDDINGS. 
 
 11 
 
 'the eggs, and when the milk is cold, stir 
 them into it, in turn with the bread and 
 sugar. Add the lemon-peel, and if you 
 choose a table-spoonful of rose-water. 
 
 Bake it in a buttered dish, and grate 
 nutmeg over it when done. Do not send 
 it to table hot. Baked puddings should 
 never be eaten till they have become cold, 
 or at least cool. 
 
 RICE PUDDING. 
 
 A quarter of a pound of rice. 
 
 A quarter of a pound of butter. 
 '■■ A quarter of a pound of sugar. 
 r'A pint and a half of milk, or cream and 
 
 - milk. 
 
 • "Six eggs. 
 
 - A tea-spoonful of mixed spice, mace, nut- 
 
 meg and cinnamon. 
 A half wine-glass of rose-water. 
 
 Wash the rice. Boil it till very soft. 
 
 . Drain it, and set it away to get cold. Put 
 
 tlie butler and sugar together in a pan, and 
 
 • stir them till very light. Add to them the 
 'spice and rose-water. Beat the eggs very 
 
 light, and stir them, gradually, into the 
 milk. Then stir the eggs and milk into 
 the butter and sugar, alternately with the 
 rice. 
 - Bake it and grate nutmeg over the top. 
 
 Currants or raisins, floured, and stirred 
 in at the last, will greatly improve it. 
 
 It should be eaten cold, or quite cool. 
 
 GROUND RICE PUDDING. 
 
 Take five table-spoonfuls of ground rice 
 and boil it in a quart of new milk, with a 
 grated nutmeg or a tea-spoonful of pow- 
 dered cinnamon, stirring it all the time. 
 When it has boiled, pour it into a pan and 
 stir in a quarter of a pound of butter, and 
 a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar, a 
 tiutmeg and half a pint of cream. Set it 
 away to get cold. Then beat eight eggs, 
 omitting ihe whites of four. Have ready 
 a half pound of dried currants well cleaned, 
 and sprinkled with flour; stir them into 
 the mixture alternately with the beaten egg. 
 Add half a glass of rose-water, or half a 
 glass of mixed wine and brandy. Butter 
 a deep dish, put in the mixture, and bake 
 it of a pale brown. Or you may bake it 
 in sancers. 
 
 CHICKEN PUDDING. 
 
 Cut 
 
 and 
 
 up a pair of young chickenSj 
 season them with pepper and salt and a 
 
 little mace and nutmeg. Put them into a 
 pot with two large spoonfuls of butter, and 
 water enough to cover them. Stew them 
 gently ; and when about half cooked, take 
 them out and set them away to cool. Pour 
 off the gravy, and reserve it to be served 
 up separately. 
 
 In the meantime, make a batter as if 
 for a pudding, of a pound of sifted flour 
 stirred gradually into a quart of milk, six 
 eggs well beaten and added by degrees to 
 the mixture, and a very litlle salt. Put a 
 layer of chicken in the bottom of a deep 
 dish, and pour over it some of the batter; 
 then another layer of chicken, and then 
 some more batter; and so on till the dish 
 is full, having a cover of batter at the top. 
 Bake it till it is brown. Then break an 
 egg into the gravy which you have set 
 away, give it a boil, and send it to table in 
 a sauce-boat to eat with the pudding. 
 
 BOSTON PUDDING. 
 
 Make a good common paste with a pound 
 and a half of flour, and three quarters of 
 a pound of butter.* When you roll it out 
 the last time, cut off" the edges, till you get 
 the sheet of paste of an even square shape. 
 
 Have ready some fruit sweetened to your 
 taste. If cranberries, goosel^erries, dried 
 peaches, or damsons, they should be stew- 
 ed, and made very sweet. If apples, they 
 should be stewed in a very little water, 
 drained, and seasoned with nutmeg, rose- 
 water and lemon. If currants, raspberries, 
 or blackberries, they should be mashed with 
 sugar, and put into the pudding raw. 
 
 Spread the fruit very thick, all over the 
 sheet of paste, (which must not be rolled 
 out too thin.) When it is covered all over 
 witli the fruit, roll it up, and close tlie 
 dough at both ends, and down the last side. 
 Tie the pudding in a cloth and boil it. 
 
 Eat it with sugar. It must not be taken 
 out of the pot till just before it is brought 
 to table. 
 
 FRITTERS. 
 
 Seven eggs. 
 
 Half a pint of milk. 
 
 A salt-spoonful of salt. 
 
 Suflicient flour to make a thick batter. 
 
 Beat the eggs well and stir them gradu* 
 ally into the milk. Add the salt, and stir 
 
 * Or three quarters of a pound of beef-raet, 
 chopped very fine. Mix the suet at once with 
 the flour, knead it with cold water into a stiif 
 dough, and then roll it out into a large tbin 
 sheet. Fold it up and roll it again. 
 
22 
 
 CUSTARDS, CURDS, AND CREAMS. 
 
 in flour enough to make a thick batter. 
 They must set an hour to rise. 
 
 Fry them in lard, and serve them up hot. 
 ' Eat them with wine and sugar. 
 
 They are improved by stirring in a ta- 
 ble-spoonful of yeast. 
 
 These are excellent with the addition of 
 cold stewed apple, stirred into the mixture, 
 in which case use less flour. 
 
 Oyster Fritters are made by putting a 
 large oyster in the middle of each fritter, 
 while frying. They are very fine. 
 
 A CHEESE-CAKE. 
 
 Four eggs. 
 
 Half a pint of milk. 
 
 A quarter of a pound of butter. 
 
 A quarter of a pound of powdered sugar. 
 
 Two ounces of grated bread. 
 
 A table-spoonful of mixed brandy and wine. 
 
 A tea-spoonful of rose-water. 
 
 A tea-spoonful of mace, cinnamon, and 
 
 nutmeg, mixed. 
 A quarter of a pound of currants. 
 
 Pick the currants very clean. Wash 
 them through a colander, wipe them in a 
 towel, and then dry them on a dish before 
 the fire. 
 
 When dry take out a few to scatter over 
 the top of the cheese-cake, lay tliem aside. 
 
 and sprinkle the remainder of the currants 
 with the flour. 
 
 Stir the butter and sugar to a cream. 
 Grate the bread, and prepare the spice. 
 Beat the eggs very light. 
 
 Boil the milk. When it comes to a boil, 
 add to it half the beaten egg, and boil both 
 together till it becomes a curd, stirring it 
 frequently with a knife. Then throw the 
 grated bread on the curd, and stir all toge- 
 ther. Then take the milk, egg, and bread 
 off the fire, and stir it, gradually, into the 
 butter and sugar. Next, stir in the re- 
 maining half of the egg. 
 
 Add, by degrees,, the liquor and spice. 
 
 Lastly, stir in, gradually, the currants. 
 
 Have ready a pufl'-paste, which should 
 be made before you prepare the cheese-cake, 
 as the mixture will become heavy by stand- 
 ing. Before you put it into the oven, scat- 
 ter the remainder of tlie currants over the 
 top. 
 
 Bake it half an hour in rather a quick 
 oven. 
 
 Do not sugar the top. 
 
 You may bake it eitlier in a soup-plate, 
 or in two small tin patty-pans, which, for 
 cheese-cakes, should be of a square shape. 
 If baked in square patty-pans leave at each 
 side a flap of paste in the shape of a half- 
 circle. Cut long slits in these flaps and 
 turn them over, so that they will rest on 
 the lop of the mixture. 
 
 You can, if you choose, add to the cur- 
 rants a few I'aisins stoned, and cut in half. 
 
 CUSTARDS, CURDS, AND CREAMS. 
 
 FINE CUSTARDS. 
 
 A quart of milk or cream. 
 The yolks only, of sixteen eggs. 
 Six ounces of powdered white sugar. 
 Half an ounce of cinnamon, broken in small 
 
 pieces. 
 A large handful of peach-leaves, or half an 
 
 ounce of peach-kernels or bitter almonds, 
 
 broken in pieces. 
 A tablenspoonful of rose-water. 
 A nutmeg. 
 
 Boil in the milk the cinnamon and the 
 peach-leaves, or peach-kernels. When it 
 has boiled, set it away to get cold. As 
 aoon as it is cold, strain it through a sieve, 
 to clear it from the cioiiamon, peach-leaves, 
 
 &c. and stir into it, gradually, the sugar, 
 spice, and rose-water. 
 
 Beat the yolks of sixteen eggs very light, 
 and stir them by degrees into the milk, 
 which must be quite cold or the eggs will 
 make it curdle. Put the custards into cups, 
 and set them in a baking-pan, half filled 
 with water. When baked, grate some nut- 
 meg over each, and ice them. Make the 
 icing of the whites of eight eggs, a large 
 tea-spoonful of powdered loaf-sugar, and 
 six drops of essence of lemon, beaten all 
 together till it stands alone. Pile up some 
 of the icing on the top of each custard, 
 heaping it high. Put a spot of red nonpa- 
 reils on the middle of the pile of icing. 
 
 m _ w 
 
 If the weather be damp, or the eggs not 
 new-laid, more than eight whites will be 
 required for the icing. 
 
fcUSTARDS, CURDS, AND CREAMS, 
 
 «l 
 
 PLAIN CUSTARDS. 
 
 A quart of rich milk. 
 
 Eight eggs. 
 
 A quarter of a pound of powdered sugar. 
 
 A handful of peach-leaves, or lialf an ounce 
 
 of peach-kernels, broken in pieces. 
 A nutuEieg. 
 
 Boil the peach-leaves or kernels in the 
 milk, and set it away to cool. When cold, 
 strain out the leaves or kernels, and stir in 
 the sugar. Beat the eggs very light, and 
 stir them gradually into the milk, when it 
 is quite cold. Bake it in cnps, or in a 
 iarge white dish. 
 
 When cool, grate nutmeg over the top. 
 
 COLD CUSTARDS. 
 
 A quart of new milk, and a half a pint of 
 
 cream, mixed. 
 A quarter pound of powdered white sugar. 
 A large glass of wiiite wii>e, in which an 
 
 inch of washed rennet has been soaked. 
 A nutmeg. 
 
 Mix together the milk, cream, and su- 
 gar. Stir tlie wine into it, and pour the 
 mixture into your custard-cups. Set them 
 in a warm place near the fire, till they be- 
 come a firm curd. Then set them on ice, 
 or in a very cold place. Grate nutmeg over 
 them. 
 
 ALMOND CUSTARD. 
 
 One pint of cream. 
 One pint of rich milk. 
 Half a pound of shelled sweet almonds. 
 Two ounces of shelled bitter almonds. 
 Four table-spoonfuls of rose-water. 
 A quarter of a pound of white sugar. 
 The yolks of eight eggs. 
 A little oil of lemon. 
 
 Blanch the almonds and pound them to 
 a paste* mixing the rose-water gradually 
 with tliem. Powder the sugar, and lieat 
 the yolk of egg till very light. Mix the 
 cream and milk together, and stir into it 
 gradually the sugar, the pounded almonds, 
 and the beaten yolk of egg. Then stir the 
 whole very hard. Put tlie mixture into a 
 skillet or sauce-pan, and set it in a heated 
 stove, or on a charcoal furnace. Stir it 
 one way till it becomes thick, but take it 
 off the iire before it has been long enough 
 to cm-die. Set it away to get cold. Take 
 half tlie whites of the eggs, and beat them 
 to a stiff froth, adding a little powdered 
 sugar, and a few drops of oil of lemon 
 B 
 
 (the latter in proportion to its strength.). 
 Put the custard into a glass dish or bowl,j 
 and heap the frothed white of egg upon it. 
 You may ornament the top with nonpareils 
 or sugar-sand. 
 
 Or you may put it in small cups, piling 
 some froth on each-. 
 
 RICE CUSTARDS. 
 
 Half a pound of rice. 
 
 Half a pound of raisins or currants. 
 
 Eight yolks of eggs or six whole eggsi 
 
 Six ounces of powdered sugar. 
 
 A quart of rich milk. 
 
 A handful of peach-leaves, or half an ounce 
 
 of peach-kernels, broken in pieces. 
 Half an ounce of cinnamon, broken in pieces. 
 
 Boil the rice with the raisins or curraiitsj 
 which nmst first be flouredi Butter some 
 cups or a mould, and when the rice is quite 
 soft, drain it, and put it into them. Set it 
 away to get cold. 
 
 Beat the eggs well. Boil tlie milk with 
 the cinnamon and peach-leaves, or kernels. 
 As soon as it has come to a boil, take it 
 off and strain it through a sieve. Then 
 set it again on the fire, stir into it alter- 
 nately, the egg and sugar, taking it off fre- 
 quently and stirring it hard, lest it become 
 a curd. Take care not to boil it too long, 
 or it will be lumpy and lose its flavor; 
 When done, sot it away tocuol. Turnout 
 the rice from the cups or mould, into a 
 deep dish. Pour some of the boiled cus- 
 tard over it, and send up the remainder of 
 the custard in a sauce-boat^ 
 
 You may, if you choose, ornament the 
 lumps of rice, (after the custard is poured 
 round them) by making a stiff froth of 
 white of egg (beaten till it stands alone) 
 and a few drops of essence of lemon, with 
 a very little powdered loaf-sugar. Heap 
 the froth on tire top of each lump of rice. 
 
 CURDS AND WHEY. 
 
 Take a small piece of rennet about twd 
 inches square. Wash it very clean in cold 
 water, to get all the salt off, and wipe it 
 dry. Put it in a tea-cup, and pour on it 
 just enough of lukewarm water to cover it. 
 Let it set all night, or for several hours. 
 'I'hen take out the rennet, and stir the 
 water in which it was soaked, into a quart 
 of milk, which should be in a broa^ 
 dish. 
 
 Set the milk in a warm place, till it be- 
 comes a firm curd. As soon as the curd 
 is completely made, set it in a cool placet 
 
14 
 
 CUSTARDS, CURDS, AND CREAMS. 
 
 or on ice (if in summer) for two or three 
 hours before you want to use it. 
 
 Eat it with wine, sugar, and nutmeg. 
 
 The whey, drained from the curd, is an 
 excellent drink for invalids. 
 
 A TRIFLE. 
 
 A quart of cream. 
 
 A quarter pound of loaf-sugar, powdered. 
 Half a pint of white wine 1 • i 
 Half a gill of brandy 5 '"''''''^• 
 
 Eight maocaroons, or more if you choose. 
 Four small sponge-cakes or Naples biscuit. 
 Two ounces of blanched sweet almonds, 
 
 pounded in a mortar. 
 One ounce of blanched bitter almonds or 
 
 peach-kernels. 
 The juice and grated peel of two lemons. 
 A nutmeg, grated. 
 A glass of noyau. 
 A pint of rich baked custard, made of the 
 
 yolks of eggs. 
 
 Pound the sweet and bitter almonds to a 
 smooth paste, adding a little rose-water as 
 you pound them. 
 
 Grate the yellow peels of the lemons, 
 and squeeze the juice into a saucer. 
 
 Break the sponge cake and maccaroons 
 into small pieces, mix them with the al- 
 monds, and lay them in the bottom of a 
 large glass bowl. Grate a nutmeg over 
 them, and the juice and peel of the lemons. 
 Add the wine and brandy, and let the mix- 
 ture remain untouched, till the cakes are 
 dissolved in the liquor. Then stir it a 
 little. 
 
 Mix the cream and sugar with a glass 
 of noyau, and beat it with a whisk or rods, 
 till it stands alone. 
 
 As the froth rises, take it off with a 
 spoon, and lay it on a sieve (with a large 
 dish under it) to drain. The cream, that 
 drains into the dish, must be poured back 
 into the pan with the rest, and beaten over 
 again. When the cream is finished, set it 
 in a cool place. 
 
 When the custard is cold, pour it into 
 the glass bowl upon the dissolved cakes, 
 &c. and when the cream is ready, fdl up 
 the bowl with it, heaping it high in the 
 middle. You may ornament it with non- 
 pareils. 
 
 If you choose, you can put in, between 
 the custard and the frothed cream, a layer 
 of fruit jelly, or small fruit preserved. 
 
 WHIPT CREAM, 
 
 A quart of cream. 
 
 The whites of four eggs. 
 
 Half a pint of white wine. 
 
 A quarter pound of powdered loaf-Sugar. 
 
 Ten drops of strong essence of lemon, or 
 
 two lemons cut in thin slices, or the juice 
 
 of a large lemon. 
 
 Mix together, in a broad pan, all the in- 
 gredients, unless you use slices of lemon, 
 and then they must be laid at intervals 
 among the froth, as you lieap it in the 
 bowl. 
 
 With a whisk or rods, beat the cream 
 to a strong froth. Have beside your pan 
 a sieve (bottom upwards) with a large dish 
 under it. As the froth rises, take it light- 
 ly off with a spoon, and lay it on the sieve 
 to drain. When the top of the sieve is 
 full, transfer the froth to a large glass or 
 china bowl. Continue to do this till the 
 bowl is full. 
 
 The cream which has dropped through 
 the sieve into the dish, must be poine<l into 
 the pan, and beaten over again. When 
 all the cream is converted into froth, pile 
 it up in the bowl, making it highest in the 
 middle. 
 
 If vou choose, you may ornament it with 
 red and green nonpareils. 
 
 If you put it in glasses, lay a little jelly 
 in the bottom of each glass, and pile the 
 cream on it. 
 
 Keep it in a cool place till you want to 
 use it. 
 
 ICE CREAM. 
 
 A quart of rich cream, boiled and set 
 away till cold. 
 
 Half a pound of powdered loaf-sugar. 
 
 The juice of two large lemons, or a pint 
 of strawberries or raspberries; or an 
 ounce of bitter almonds, blanched and 
 pounded in a mortar with rose-water. 
 
 Put the cream into a broad pan.* Then 
 stir in the sugar by degrees, and when all 
 is well mixed, strain it through a sieve. 
 
 Put it into a tin that has a close cover, 
 and set it in a tub. Fill the tub with ice 
 broken into very small pieces, and strew 
 among the ice a large quantity of salt, tak- 
 ing caie that none of the salt gets into the 
 cream. Scrape the cream down with a 
 spoon as it freezes round the edges of the 
 tin. While the cream is freezing, stir in 
 gradually the lemon-juice, or the juice of a 
 pint of mashed stravvberries or rasp ber- 
 ries. When it is all frozen, dip the tin in 
 lukewarm water; take out the cream, and 
 
CAKES, NUTS, AND GINGERBREAD. 
 
 15 
 
 fill your glasses; but not till a few minutes 
 before you want to use it, as it will very 
 9Qon melt. 
 
 You may heighten the color of the red 
 iiruit, by a little cochineal. 
 
 If you wish to have it in moulds, put the 
 cream into them as soon as it has frozen in 
 the tin. • Set the moulds in a tub of ice 
 and salt. Just before you want to use the 
 cream, tiike tlie moulds out of the tub, 
 wipe or wash the salt carefully from the 
 outside, dip the moulds in lukewarm water, 
 and turn out the cream. 
 
 You may flavor a quart of ice-cream 
 with two ounces of sweet almonds and one 
 ounce of bitter almonds, blanched and 
 beaten in a mortar with a little rose-water 
 to a smooth paste. Stir in tiie almonds 
 gradually while the cream is freezing. 
 
 ANOTHER KIND OF ICE-CREAM. 
 
 A pint and a half of rich cream. 
 
 A quart and a half-pint of morning's milk. 
 
 One pound of loaf-sugar. 
 
 Two eggs. 
 
 One table-spoonful of flour. 
 
 Two lemons. 
 
 Or half a Vanilla bean, split into small 
 
 pieces. 
 Or two ounces of sweet almonds and one 
 
 ounce of bitter almonds, blanched and 
 
 split into pieces. 
 
 Take half of the milk and put in the 
 ingredient that is to flavor it, either the 
 vanilla, the almonds, or the grated rind of 
 the lemons. Boil it, stirring in gradually 
 the sugar. 
 
 Having beaten the eggs well, add to them 
 two table-spoonfuls of cold milk, and pour 
 them into the boiling milk. Let them sim- 
 mer two or three minutes, stirring them all 
 the time. Then take tiie mixture off the 
 fire and strain it through book-muslin into 
 a pan. Add the cream and the remainder 
 of the milk, and put the whole into the tin 
 freezer, which must be set in a tub filled 
 with ice, among which must be scattered a 
 great deal of salt. 
 
 Squeeze the juice from the two lemons 
 and stir it into tlie cream, by degrees, 
 while it is freezing. 
 
 When it is all frozen, turn it out, first 
 dipping the tin for a moment in warm water. 
 
 If you wish to flavor it with strawberry 
 or raspberry juice, that, like the lemon- 
 juice, must be stirred gradually in while 
 the cream is freezing. 
 
 In places where cream is not abundant, 
 this receipt (though inferior in richness) 
 will be found more economical than the 
 preceding one. It is, however, less easy 
 and expeditious. 
 
 FLOATING ISLAND. 
 
 Six whites of eggs. 
 
 Six large table-spoonfuls of jelly. 
 
 A pint of cream, sweetened with loaf-sugar. 
 
 Put tlie jelly and white of egg into a 
 pan, and beat it together with a whisk, till 
 it becomes a stiff froth and stands alone. 
 
 Have ready the cream, in a broad shal- 
 low dish. Just before you send it to table, 
 pile up the froth in the centre of the 
 cream. 
 
 CAKES, NUTS, AND GINGERBREAD. 
 
 GENERAL DIRECTIONS. 
 
 In making cakes, it is particularly necessary that the eggs should 
 be well beaten. They are not sufficiently light till the surface 
 looks smooth and level, and till they get so thick as to be of the 
 consistence of boiled custard. 
 
 White of egg should always be beaten till it become a heap of 
 stiff froth, without any liquid at the bottom; and till it hangs from 
 the rods or fork without dropping. 
 
 Eggs become light soonest when new-laid, and when beaten 
 near the fire, or in warm dry weather. 
 
 Butter and sugar should be stirred till it looks like thick cream, 
 and till it stands up in the pan. 
 
m CAKES, NUTS, AND GINGERBREAD. 
 
 It should be kept cool. If too warm, it will make the cakes 
 heavy. 
 
 Large cakes should be baked in tin or earthen pans, with straight 
 sides, that are as nearly perpendicular as possible. They cut inta 
 handsomer slices, and if they are to be iced, it will be found very 
 inconvenient to put on the icing, if the cake slopes in towards 
 the bottom. 
 
 Before you ice a cake, dredge it all over with flour, and then 
 wipe the flour off. This will enable you to spread on the icing 
 more evenly. 
 
 Before you cut an iced cake, cut the icing by itself with a small 
 sharp penknife. The large knife with which you divide the cake, 
 will crack and break the icing. 
 
 L^Xge Gingerbread, as it burns very easily, may be baked in an 
 earthen pan. So also may Black Cake or Pound Cake. Tin 
 pans or moulds, with a hollow tube in the middle, are best for 
 cakes. 
 
 If large cakes are baked in tin paus, the bottom and sides should 
 be covered with sheets of paper, before the mixture is put in. 
 The paper must be well buttered. 
 
 Sponge cakes, and Almond c^kes should be baked in pans that 
 are as thin as possible. 
 
 If the cakes should get burnt, scrape them with a knife or gralH 
 er, as soon as they are cool. 
 
 Always be careful to butter your pans well. Should the cakes 
 stick, they ca,nnot be got out without breaking. 
 
 For queen-cakes, Sec. the small tins of a round or oval shape 
 fire most convenient. Fill them but little more than half. 
 
 After the mixture is completed, set it in a cool place till all the 
 qakes are baked. 
 
 In rolling out cakes made of dough, use as little flour as possi-. 
 h\^. When you lay them in the pans, do not place them too close 
 together, lest they run ^nto each other. 
 
 When you are cutting them out, dip the cutter frequently in 
 flour, to prevent its sticking. 
 
 If cakes are not properly baked they will have heavy streaka 
 through them, and the bottoms will be uneven and misshapen. 
 
 It is always safest to have large cakes done in a baker's oven. 
 
 QUEEN CAKE. j Pound the spice to a fine powder, in a, 
 
 I marble mortal-, and sift it well. 
 One pound of powdered wliite sugar. Put the su^ar into a deep earthen pan,. 
 
 One pound of fresh l)utter— washetl. and cut the butter into it. Stir them to-. 
 
 Fourteen ounces of sifted flour. gether, till very light. 
 
 Ten eggs. Beat the eggs ia a broad shallow pan> 
 
 gne wine-glass of wine and brandy, mixed, till they are perfectly smooth and thick, 
 alf a glass of rose-water, or twelve drops Stir into the butter and sugar a little of 
 of essence of lemon. the beaten egg, and then a little flour, and 
 
 One tea-«poonful of mace and cinnamon, so on altei'nately, a little egg and a little 
 mixed. flour, till the whole is in ; continuing all 
 
 One nutmeg, beaten or grated. , the time to beat the e^s^ aiwi stirring the 
 
CAKES, NUTS, AiND GINl 
 
 
 mixture very hard. Add by degrees, the 
 spice, and then the liquor, a little at a 
 time. Finally, put in the rose-water, or 
 essence of lemon. Stir the whole very hard 
 at the last. 
 
 Take about two dozen little tins, or 
 more, if you have room for them in the 
 oven. Rub them very well with fresh but- 
 ter. With a spoon, put some of the mix- 
 ture in each tin, but do not fill them to the 
 top as the cakes will rise higli in baking. 
 Bake them in a quick oven, about a quar- 
 ter of an hour. When they are done, tliey 
 will shrink a little from the sides of the tins. 
 
 Before you fill the tins again, scrape 
 them well with a knife, and wash or wipe 
 them clean. 
 
 If the cakes are scorched by too hot a 
 fire, do not scrajie off the burnt parts till 
 they have grown cold. 
 
 Make an icing with the whites of three 
 eggs, beaten till it stands alone, and twen- 
 ty-four tea-spoonfuls of the best loaf-sugar, 
 powdered, and beaten gi-adually into the 
 white of egg. Flavor it with a tea-spoon- 
 ful of rose-water or eight drops of essence 
 of lemon, stirred in at the last. Spread 
 it evenly with a broad knife, over the top 
 of each queen -cake, ornamenting them, 
 (while the icing is quite wet) witli red 
 and green nonpareils, or fine sugar-sand, 
 dropped on, carefully, with the thumb and 
 finger. 
 
 When the cakes are iced, set them in a 
 warm place to dry; but not too near the 
 fire, as that will cause the icing to crack. 
 
 You may color icing of a fine pink, by 
 mixing with it a few drops of liquid cochi- 
 neal, which is prepared by boiling very 
 slowly in an earthen or china vessel twenty 
 grains of cochineal powder, twenty grains 
 of cream of tartar, and twenty grains of 
 powdered alum, all dissolved in a gill of 
 soft water, and boiled till reduced to one 
 half. Strain it and cork it up in a small 
 phial. Pink icing should be ornamented 
 with white nonpareils. 
 
 In buying essence or oil of lemon, en- 
 deavor to get that which is white, it being 
 much the strongest and best. When it 
 looks greenish, it is generally very weak, 
 so that when used, a double or treble quan- 
 tity is necessary. 
 
 ALMOND CAKE. 
 
 Two ounces of blanched bitter almonds, 
 
 pounded very fine. 
 Seven ounces of flom", sifted and dried. 
 Ten eggs. 
 
 One pound loaf-sugar, powdered and sifted. 
 Two table-spoonfuls of rose-water. 
 
 Take two ounces of shelled bitter al- 
 monds, or peach-kernels. Scald them in 
 B2 
 
 hot wat9^ ai>4 as you peel them, throw 
 them into »^ fabwl of cold water, then wipe 
 them dry, aftd.pt)und tiiem one by one in a 
 mortar, till they are quite fine and smooth. 
 
 Break ten eggs, putting the yolks in one 
 pan and the whites in another. Beat them 
 separately as light as possible, the whites 
 first, and then the yolks. 
 
 Add the sugar, gradually, to the yolks, 
 beating it in very hard. Then by degrees, 
 beat in the almonds, and then add the rose- 
 water. 
 
 Stir half the whites of the eggs into the 
 yolks and sugar. Divide the flour into 
 two equal parts, and stir in one half, slowly 
 and lightly, till it bubbles on the top. 
 Then the other half of the white of egg, 
 and then the remainder of the flour very 
 lightly. 
 
 Butter a large square tin pan, or one 
 made of paste-board which will be better. 
 Put in the mixture, and set immediately in 
 a quick oven, which must be rather hotter 
 at the bottom than at the top. Bake it 
 according to the thickness. If you allow 
 the oven to get slack, the cake will be 
 spoiled. 
 
 Make an icing with the whites of three 
 eggs, twenty-four tea-spoonfuls of loaf-su- 
 gar, and eight drops of essence of lemon. 
 
 When the cake is cool, mark it in small 
 squares with a knife. Cover it with icing, 
 and ornament it while wet, with nonpareils 
 dropfjed on in borders, round each square 
 of the cake. When the icing is dry, cut 
 the cake in squares, cutting through the 
 icing very carefully with a penknife. Or 
 you may cut it in squares first, and then 
 ice and ornament each square separately. 
 
 Eat it while fresh. 
 
 POUND CAKE. 
 
 One pound of flour, sifted. 
 
 One pound of white sugar, powdered and 
 sifted. 
 
 One pound of fresh butter* 
 
 Ten eggs. 
 
 Half a glass ol' wine- \ 
 
 Half a glass of brandy > mixed. 
 
 Half a glass of rose-water^ 
 
 Twelve chops of essence of lemon. 
 
 A table-spoouful of mixed mace and cin- 
 namon. 
 
 A nutmeg, powdered. 
 
 Pound the spice and sift it. There 
 should be twice as much cinnamon as mace. 
 Mix the cinnamon, mace, and nutmeg to- 
 gether. 
 
 Sift the flour in a broad pan, or wooden 
 bowl. Sift the powdered sugar into a 
 large deep pan, and cut the butter into it, 
 in small pieces. If tlie weatlier is very 
 
18 
 
 CAKES, NUTS, AND GINGERBREAD. 
 
 cold, and the butter hard, set the pan near 
 the fire for a few minutes; but if the butter 
 is too warm, the cake will be lieavy. Stir 
 tlie butter and sugar together, with a wood- 
 en stick, till they are very light, and white, 
 and look like cream. 
 
 Beat the eggs in a broad shallow pan 
 with a wooden egg-beater or whisk. Thej' 
 must be beaten till they are thick and 
 smooth, and of the consistence of boiled 
 cuatard. 
 
 Pour the liquor and rose-water, gradual- 
 ly, into the butter and sugar, stirring all 
 the time. Add, by degrees, the essence 
 of lemon and spice, 
 
 Stir the egg and flour alternately into the 
 butter and sugar, a handful of llour, and 
 about two spoonfuls of the egg (which you 
 must continue to beat all the time,) and 
 when all is in, stir the whole mixture very 
 hard, for near ten minutes. 
 
 Butter a large tin pan, or a cake mould 
 with an open tube rising from the mi,ddle. 
 Put the mixture into it as evenly as possi- 
 ble. Bake it in a moderate oven, for two, 
 or three, or four hours, in proportion to its 
 thickness, and to the heat of the fire. 
 
 When you think it is nearly done, thrust 
 a twig or wooden skewer into it, down to 
 the bottom. If the stick comes out clean 
 and dry, the cake is almost baked. When 
 quite done, it will shrink from the sides of 
 the pan.,^ and cease making a noise. Then 
 wUkh'aw the coals (if baked in a dutch 
 oven) take off the lid, and let the cake 
 remain in the oven to cuol gradually. 
 
 You may ice it either warm or cold. 
 Before you put the icing; on a large cake,^ 
 di-edge the cake all over with flour, and 
 then wipe the flour off; this will make the 
 icing stick on better — If you have sufficient 
 time, the appearance of l!ie cake will be 
 nmch improved by icing it twit^. Put on 
 the first icing soon after the cake is taken, 
 out of t!ie oveji, and the second the next 
 day wheji the first is perfectly dry. While 
 (he last icing is wet, ornament it yvith ca- 
 lored sugar-sand or nonpareils. 
 
 SPONGE CAKE. 
 
 Twelve eggs. 
 
 Ten ounces sifted flour, di^ed ney.r the fire. 
 A pound of louf sugar, powdiued and sifted. 
 Twelve drops of essence of leaioi^. 
 A grated nutmeg. 
 
 A tea-spoonful of powdered cinnamon and 
 mace, mixed. 
 
 Beat the eggs as liglitas possible. Eggs 
 for sponge or almond cakes require more 
 beating than for any other purpose. Beat 
 the sugar, by degrees, into the eggs. Beat 
 very hard, and continue to beat some time 
 after the sugar is all in. 
 
 No sort of sugar but ^oaf, will make light 
 sponge-cake. Stir in, gradually, the spice 
 and essence of lemon. Then, by degrees, 
 put in the flour, a little at a time, stirring 
 round the mixture very slowly with a knife. 
 If the flour is stirred in too hard, the cake 
 will be tough. It must be done lightly and 
 gently, so that the top of the mixture will 
 be covered with bubbles. As soon as tlie 
 flour is all in, begin to bake it, as setting 
 will injure it. 
 
 Put ii in small tins, well buttered, or in 
 one large tin jjan. The thinner the jians, 
 the better for sponge-cake. Fill the small 
 tins about half full. Grate loaf-sugar over 
 the top of each, before you set them in the 
 oven. 
 
 Sponge-cake requires a very quick oven, 
 particularly at the bottom. It should be; 
 baked as fast as possible, ojc it will be tough 
 and lieavy, however light it ipay have been 
 before it went into the oven. It is of all 
 cakes the most liable to be spoiled in bak- 
 ing. When taken out of the tins, the cakes 
 should be spread on a sieve to cool. If 
 baked in one large cake, it should be iced. 
 
 A large cake of twelve eggs, should be. 
 baked at least an hour in a quick oven. 
 
 For small cakes, ten minntes' is generally 
 sufficient. If they get very much out of 
 shape in baking, it is a sign that Uie oven 
 is too slow. 
 
 Some think that sponge-cakes and al-. 
 mond cakes are lighter, when the yolks and 
 whites of the eggs are beaten in separate, 
 pan^, and mixed gently together before the 
 sugar is beaten into them. 
 
 If done sepaiately from the yolks, the. 
 whites should be beaten till they stand alone. 
 
 Sponge-cake is best the day it is baked.. 
 
 BLACK CAKE, Oil PLUM CAKE.. 
 
 One pouixl of flour sifted. 
 
 One pound of fresh butler. 
 
 One pound of powdered w.hite sugar. 
 
 Twehe eggs. 
 
 Two pounds of the best raisins.. 
 
 Two pounds of currants. 
 
 Two table-si)oonful3 of mixed spice, mace 
 
 and cinnamon. 
 T\vo nutmegs powdered. 
 A large glass of wine ^ 
 A large glass of brandy > mixed together. 
 Half a glass of rose-water ^ 
 A pound of citron. 
 
 Pick the currants very clean, and wash 
 them, draining them through a colander. 
 Wipe them in a towel. Spread them out 
 on a large dish, and set them near the fire, 
 or in tlie hot sun to dry, placing the dish 
 jti a slanting position. Having stoned th^^ 
 
CAKES, NUTS, AND GINGERBREAD. 
 
 19 
 
 raisins, cut them in half, mid when all are 
 done, sprinkle them well with sifted tiour, 
 to prevent their sinking to the bottom of 
 the cake. When the currants are dry, 
 sprinkle them also with flour. 
 
 Pound the spice, allowing twice as much 
 cinnamon as mace. Sift it, and mix the 
 mace, nutmeg, and cinnamon together. 
 Mix also the liquor and rose-water in a 
 tumhler or cup. Cut the citron in slips. 
 Sift the flour into a broad dish. Sift tlie 
 sugai- into a deep earthen pan, and cut the 
 butter into it. Warm it near the fire, if 
 the weather is too cold for it to mix 
 easily. Stir the butter and sugar to a 
 cream. 
 
 Beat the eggs as light as possible. Stir 
 them into the butter and sugar, alternately 
 with die flour. Stir very hard. Add 
 gradually the spice and liquor. Stir the 
 raisins and currants alternately into the 
 mixture, taking care that they are well 
 floured. Stir the whole as hard as possi- 
 ble, for ten minutes after the ingredient^ 
 are in. 
 
 Cover the bottom and sides of a large 
 tin or earthen pan, with sheets of white 
 paper well buttered, and put into it some 
 of the mixture. Then spread on it some 
 pf the citron, which must not be cut too 
 small. Next put a layer of the mixture, 
 and then a layer of citron, and so on till 
 it is all in, having a layer of the mixture 
 at the top. 
 
 This cake is always best baked in h 
 baker's oven, and will require four or five 
 hours, in proportion to its thickness. 
 
 After this cake is done, it will be the 
 better for withdrawing the fire (if baked 
 in an iron oven) and letting it stay in tlie 
 oven all night, or till it gets quite cold. 
 
 {ce it, next day. 
 
 FRENCH ALMOND CAKE, 
 
 Six ounces of shelled sweet almonds. 
 Three ounces of shelled bitter almonds, or 
 
 peach-kernels. 
 Three ounces sifted flour, dried near the fire. 
 Fourteen eggs. 
 
 One poimd of powdered loaf-sugar. 
 Twelve drops of essence of lemon. 
 
 Blanch the almonds, by scalding them in 
 hot water. Put them in a bowl of cold 
 water, and \vi})e them dry, when you take 
 them out. Pound tliem, one at a time, in 
 a mortar, till they are perfectly smooth. 
 Mix the sweet and bitter almonds together. 
 Prepare them, if possible, the day before 
 the cake is made. While pounJing the 
 almonds, pour in occasionally a little rose- 
 water, It makes them much lighter. 
 
 Put the whites and yolks of the eggs, 
 into separate pans. Beat the whites till 
 they stand alone, and then the yolks till 
 they are very thick. 
 
 Put the sugar, gradually, to the yolks, 
 beating it in very hard. Add, by degrees, 
 the almonds, still beating very hard. Then 
 put in the essence of lemon. Next, beat 
 in, gradually, the whites of the eggs, con- 
 tinuing to beat for some time after they 
 are all in. Lastly, stir in the flour, as 
 slowly and lightly, as possible. 
 
 Butter a large tin mould or pan. Put 
 the cake in and bake it in a very quick 
 oven, an hour or more according to its 
 thickness. 
 
 The oven must on no account be hotter 
 at the top, than at the bottom. 
 
 AVhen done, set it on a sieve to cool. 
 
 Ice it, and ornament it with nonpareils. 
 
 These almond cakes are generally baked 
 in a turban-shaped mould, and the nonpa^-v 
 reils put on, in spots or sprigs. 
 
 This cake eats best the day it is baked"^ 
 
 A pound of almonds in the shells (if the 
 shells are soft and thin,) will generally 
 yield half a pound when shelled. Hard,^ 
 thick-shelled almonds, seldom yield much 
 more than a quarter of a pound, and should 
 therefore never be bought for cakes or pud-- 
 dings. 
 
 Bitter almonds and jjeach-kernels can 
 always be purchased with tlie shells off". 
 
 Families should always save their peach- 
 kernels, as they can be used in cakes, pud- 
 dings and custards. 
 
 MACAROONS. 
 
 Half a pound of shelled sweet almonds^ 
 
 A quarter poimd of shelled bitter almonds. 
 
 The whites of three eggs. 
 
 Twenty -four large tea-spoonfuls of powr<fer- 
 ed loaf-sugar. 
 
 A tea-spoonful of rose-water. 
 
 A laige tea-spoonful of mixed spice, nut- 
 meg, n^ace and cinnamon. 
 
 Blandi and yjound your almonds, beat 
 them very smooth, and mix the sweet and 
 bitter togetlier; do them, if you can, the 
 day liefore you make the macaroons. 
 Pound and sift your spice. Beat the 
 whites of three eggs till they stand alone; 
 add to them, very gradually, the powdered 
 sugar, a spoonful at a time, beat it in very 
 hard, and put in, by degrees, the rose-water 
 and spice. Then stir in, gradually, tlie 
 almonds. The mixture must be like a soft 
 dough; if too thick, it will be heavy; if 
 too thin, it will iim out of shape. If you 
 find your aUnonds not sufficient, prepare a 
 
20 
 
 CAKES, NUTS, AND GINGERBREAD. 
 
 few more, and stir them in. When it is 
 all well mixed and stirred, put some flour 
 in the palm of your hand, and taking up a 
 lump of the mixture with a knife, roll it on 
 your hand with the flour into a small round 
 ball; have ready an iron or tin pan, but- 
 tered, and lay the macaroons in it, as you 
 make them up. Place them about two 
 inches apart, in case of their spreading. 
 Bake them about eight or ten minutes in a 
 moderate oven ; they should be baked of a 
 pale brown color. If too much baked, 
 they will lose their flavor; if too little, 
 they will be heavy. Let the top of the 
 oven be hotter than the bottom. They 
 should rise high in the middle, and crack 
 on the surface. You may, if you choose, 
 put a larger proportion of spice. 
 
 Cocoa-nut cakes may be made in a similar 
 manner, substituting for the pounded al- 
 monds half a pound of finely grated cocoa- 
 nut. They must be made into small round 
 balls with a little flour laid on the palm of 
 the hand, and baked a few minutes. They 
 are very fine. 
 
 APEES. 
 
 A pound of flour, sifted. 
 Half a pound of butter. 
 Half a glass of wine, and a table-spoonful of 
 
 rose-water, mixed. 
 Half a pound of powdered while sugar. 
 A nutmeg, grated. 
 A tea-spoonful of beaten cinnamon and 
 
 mace. 
 Three table-spoonfuls of car ra way seeds. 
 
 Sift the flour into a broad pan, and cut 
 up the butter in it. Add the carraways, 
 sugar, and spice, and jwur in the liquor 
 by degrees, mixing ii well with a knife: 
 and add enough of cold water to make 
 it a stiflf dough. Spread Home flour on 
 your pasteboard, take out the dough, and 
 knead it very well with your hands. Cut 
 it into small pieces, and knead each sepa- 
 rately, then put them all togetiier, and 
 knead the whole in one lump. Roll it out 
 in a sheet about a quarter of an inch thick. 
 Cut it out in round cakes, with the edge of 
 a tumbler, or a tin of that size. Butter an 
 iron pan, and lay the cakes in it, not too 
 close together. Bake them a few minutes 
 in a moderate oven, till they are very 
 slightly colored, but not brown. If too 
 much baked, they will entirely lose their 
 flavor. Do not roll them oat too thin. 
 
 The top of the oven should be hotter 
 than the bottom, or the cakes will lose their 
 shape. 
 
 JUMBLES. 
 
 Three eggs. 
 
 Half a pound of flour, sifted. 
 
 Half a pound of butter. 
 
 Half a pound of powdered loaf-sugar. 
 
 A table-spoonful of rose-water. 
 
 A nutmeg, grated. 
 
 A tea-spoonful of mixed mace and cinnamon. 
 
 Stir the sugar and butter to a cream. 
 Beat the eggs very light. Throw them, 
 all at once, into the pan of flour. Put in, 
 at once, the butter and sugar, and then add 
 the spice and rose-water. If you have no 
 rose-water, substitute six or seven drops 
 of strong essence of lemon, or more if the 
 essence is weak. Stir the whole very hard, 
 with a knife. 
 
 Spread some flour on your paste-board, 
 and flour your hands well. Take up with 
 your knife, a portion of the dough, and lay 
 it on the board. Roll it lightly with your 
 hands, into long thin rolls, which must be 
 cut into equal lengths, curled up into rings, 
 and laid gently into an iron or tin pan, 
 buttered, not too close to each other, as 
 they spread in baking. Bake them in a 
 quick oven about five minutes, and grate 
 loaf-sugar over them when cool. 
 
 The top of the oven may be nearly red 
 hot, otherwise the jumbles will run into 
 each other, and become flat and shapeless. 
 
 KISSES. 
 
 One pound of the best loaf-sugrar, powdered 
 
 and sifted. 
 The whites of four eggs. 
 Twelve drops of essence of lemon. 
 A lea-cup of currant jelly. 
 
 Beat the whites of four eggs till they 
 stand alone. Then beat in, gradually, the 
 sugar, a tea-spoonful at a time. Add the 
 essence of lemon, and beat the whole very 
 hard. 
 
 Lay a wet sheet of paper on the bottom 
 of a square tin pan. Drop on it, at equal 
 distances, a small tea-spoonful of stiff" cur- 
 rant jelly. It is better to put a little of the 
 beaten white of egg and sugar at first un- 
 der the cui-rant jelly. With a large spoon, 
 pile some of the beaten white of egg and 
 sugar, on each lump of jelly, so as to cover 
 it entirely. Drop on the mixture, as even- 
 ly as possible, so as to make the kisses of 
 a round smooth shape. 
 
 Set them in a cool oven, and as soon as 
 they are colored, they are done. Then 
 take them out and place them two bottoms 
 together. Lay them lightly on a sieve, 
 and dry them in a cool oven, till the two 
 bottoms stick fast together, so as to form 
 one ball or oval. 
 
CAKES, BUNS, AND GINGERBREAD, 
 
 ^ 
 
 RUSK. 
 
 A quarter of a pound of powdered sugar. 
 
 A quarter of a pound of fresh butter. 
 
 One pound of flour, sifted. 
 
 One egg. 
 
 Three wine-glasses of milk. 
 
 A wine-glass and a half of the best yeast. 
 
 A table-spoonful of rose-water. 
 
 A tea-spoonfui of powdered ciunaiuon. 
 
 Sift your flour into a pan. Cut up the 
 better in the milk, and warm them a little, 
 so as to soften the butter, but not to melt it 
 entirely. Beat your egg; pour the milk 
 and butter into your pan of flour, then the 
 egg, then the rose-water and spice, and 
 lastly the yeast. Stir all well together 
 with a knife. 
 
 Spread some flour on your paste-board: 
 lay the dough on it, and knead it well. 
 Then divide it into small pieces of an equal 
 size, and knead each piece into a little 
 thick round cake. Butter an iron pan, 
 jay the cakes in it, and set them in a warm 
 place to rise. Prick the tops with a fork. 
 When they are quite light, bake them in a 
 moderate oven. 
 
 Rusk should be eaten fresh. 
 
 SPANISH BUNS. 
 
 Four eggs. 
 
 Three quarters of a pound of flour, sifted. 
 Half a pound of pow4ered whitp sugar. 
 Two wine-glasses and a^ ha|f of rich milk. 
 Six ounces of fresh butter. 
 A wine-glass and a half of the best yeast. 
 A table-spoonful of rose-water. 
 A grated nutmeg. 
 
 A large tea-spoonful of powdered mace 
 and cinnamon. 
 
 Sift half a pound of flour into a broad 
 pan, and sift a quarter of a pound, separ- 
 ately, into a deep plate, and set it aside. 
 Put the milk into a soup-plate, cut up the 
 butter, and set it on the stove or near the 
 Hre to warm, but do not let it get too hot. 
 Wlien the butter is very soft, stir it all 
 through the milk with a knife, and set it 
 away to cool. Beat the eggs very light, 
 and mix the milk and butter with them, all 
 at once ; then pour all into the pan of flour. 
 Put in tlie spice, and the rose-water, or if 
 you prefer it, eight drops of essence of 
 lemon. Add the yeast, of which an in- 
 creased quantity will be necessary, if it is 
 not very strong and fresh. Stir the whole 
 very hard, with a knife. Add the sugar 
 gradually. If the sugar is not stirred in 
 rfbwiy, a little at a time, the buns will be 
 heavy. Tlien, by degrees, sprinkle in the 
 remaining quarter of a pound of flour. 
 
 Stir all well together; butter a square ir<Mi 
 pan, and put in the mixture. Cover it 
 with a cloth, and set it near the fire to rise. 
 It will probaljly not be light in less than 
 five hours. VViien it is risen very high, 
 and is covered with bubbles, bake it in a 
 moderate oven, about a quarter of an hour 
 or more in proportion to its thickness. 
 
 When it is quite cool, cut it in squares, 
 and ^n-ate loaf-sugar over them. This 
 quantity will make twelve or fifteen buns. 
 
 They are best the day tliey are baked. 
 
 You may, if you choose, bake them sep-« 
 arately, in small square tins, adding to the 
 batter half a pound of currants or choppe4 
 raisins, well floured, and stirred in at the 
 last. 
 
 In making buns, stir the yeast well before 
 you |)ut it in, having first poured off the 
 beer or thin part from the top. If your 
 yeast is not good, do not attempt to make 
 buns with it, as they will never be light. 
 
 Buns may be made in a plainer way, with 
 
 the following ingredients, mixed in thei 
 
 above manner. 
 
 Half a pound of flour, sifted into a pan. 
 
 A quarter pound of flour, sifted in a plate, 
 and set aside to sprinkle in at the last. 
 
 Three eggs, well beaten. 
 
 A quarter of a pound of powdered sugar. 
 
 Three wine-glasses of milk. 
 
 A wine-glass and a half of the best yeast. 
 
 A large tea-spoonful of powdered cinna- 
 mon. 
 
 A quarter of a pound of butter, cut up, 
 and warmed in tlie milk. 
 
 All buns should be eaten quite iresh. 
 
 NEW-YORK CUP CAKE. 
 
 Four eggs. 
 
 Four cufis of sifted flour. 
 
 Three cups of powdered white sugar. 
 
 One cup of butter. 
 
 One cup of rich milk. 
 
 One glass of white wine. 
 
 A grated nutmeg. 
 
 A tea-spoonful of cinnamon beaten. 
 
 A small tea-spoonful of jjearl-aeh. 
 
 The cups should hold about a half-pint. 
 
 Warm tlie milk and cut up the butter m 
 it, keeping it by the fire till the butter is 
 melted. Prepare the spice, and sift the 
 flour. Beat the eggs very light, and stir 
 them into the milk in turn with the floin*. 
 Add the spice, and wine, and lastly the 
 {)earl-ash, having melted it in a little vine- 
 gar. Stir all very hard. 
 
 Butter some small tins, fill tbem half^^utt 
 
23 
 
 CAKES, NUTS, AND GINGERBREAD. 
 
 with the mixture, and bake them in a 
 moderate oven of equal beat throughout. 
 
 INDIAN POUND CAKE. 
 
 Eight eggs. 
 
 One pint of powdered sugar. 
 
 One pint of Indian meal, sifted, and half a 
 
 pint of wheat flour. 
 Half a pound of butter. 
 One nutmeg, grated, — and a tea-spoonful 
 ' of cinnamon. 
 Half a glass of mixed wine and brandy. 
 
 Stir the butter and sugar to a cream. 
 Beat the eggs very light. Stir the meal 
 and eggs, alternately, into the butter and 
 sugar. Add the spice and liquor. Stir 
 all well. Butter a tin pan, put in the mix- 
 ture, and bake it in a moderate oven. 
 
 This cake should be eaten while fresh. 
 
 GINGER CUP CAKE. 
 
 Five eggs. 
 
 Two large tea-cups foil of molasses. 
 The same of brown sugar rolled fine. 
 The same of fresh butter. 
 One cup of rich milk. 
 Five cups of flour, sifted. 
 Half a cup of powdered allspice and cloves. 
 Half a cup of ginger. 
 
 A small lea-spoonful of pearl-ash melted in 
 vinegar. 
 
 Cut up the butter in the milk, and warm 
 them sligiitly. Warm also the molasses, 
 and stir it into the milk and butter: then 
 stir in, gradually, llie sugar, and set it 
 away to get cool. 
 
 Beat the eggs very light, and stir them 
 into the mixture alternately with the flour. 
 Add the ginger and other spice, with the 
 pearl-ash, and stir the whole very hard. 
 
 Butter small tins, nearly fdl them with 
 the mixture, and bake the cakes in a mod- 
 erate oven. 
 
 PUTTER BISCUITS. 
 
 Half a pound of butter. 
 Two pounds of flour, sifted. 
 Half a pint of milk, or cold water. 
 A salt-spoonful of salt. 
 
 Cut up the butter in the flour, and put 
 the salt to it. Wet it to a stiiT dough with 
 the milk or water. Mix it well with a knife. 
 
 Throw some flour on the paste-board, 
 take the dough out of the pan, and knead 
 it very well. 
 
 Roll it out into a large thick sheet, and 
 beat it very hard on both sides witli the 
 rolling-pin. Beat it a long time. 
 
 Cut it out with a tin, or cup, into small 
 round thick cakes. Beat each cake on 
 both sides, with the rolling-pin. Prick 
 them with a fork. Put them in buttered 
 pans, and bake them of a light brown in a 
 slow oven. 
 
 LOAF CAKE. 
 
 Two pounds of sifted flour, setting aside 
 half a pound to sprinkle in at the last. 
 
 One pound of fresh butter. 
 
 One pound of powdered sugar. 
 
 Four eggs.. 
 
 One pound raisins, stoned, and cut in half. 
 
 One pound of currants, washed and dried. 
 
 Half a pint of milk. 
 
 Half a glass of wine. 
 
 Half a glass of brandy 
 
 A table-spoonful of mixed spice, mace, nut- 
 meg and cinnamon. 
 
 Half a pint of the best brewer's yeast; or 
 more, if the yeast is not very strong. 
 
 Cut up the butter in tlie milk, and warm 
 it till the butter is quite soft; then stir it 
 together, and set it away to cool. It must 
 not be made too warm. After you have 
 beaten the eggs, mix them with the butter 
 and milk, and stir the whole into the pan 
 of flour. Add the spice and liquor, and 
 stir in the sugar gradually. Having poured 
 off" the thin part from the top, stir the 
 yeast, and pour it into the mixture. Then 
 sprinkle in the remainder of the flour. 
 
 Have ready the fruit, which must be well 
 floured, stir it gradually into the mixture. 
 Butter a large tin pan, and put the cake 
 into it. Cover it, and set it in a warm 
 place for five or six hours to rise. When 
 quite light, bake it in a moderate oven. 
 
 This cake is best the day it is baked. 
 
 SUGAR BISCUITS. 
 
 Three pounds of flour, sifted. 
 
 One pound of butter. 
 
 A pound and a half of powdered sugar. 
 
 Half a pint of milk. 
 
 Two table-spoonfuls of brandy. 
 
 A small tea-spoonful of pearl-ash dissolved 
 
 in water. 
 Four table-spoonfuls of carraway seeds. 
 
 Cut the butter into the flour. Add the 
 sugar and carraway seeds. Pour in the 
 brandy, and then the milk. Lastly, put in 
 the pearl-ash. Stir all well with a knife. 
 
CAKES, NUTS, AND GINGERBREAD. 
 
 and mix it thoroughly, till it becomes a 
 lump of dough. 
 
 Flour youi- paste-board, and lay the 
 dough on it. Knead it vei-y well. Divide 
 it into eight or ten pieces, and knead each 
 piece separately. Then put them all to- 
 gether, and knead them very well in one 
 lump. 
 
 Cut the dough in half, and roll it out into 
 sheets, about half an inch thick. Beat the 
 sheets of dough very hard, on both sides, 
 with the rolling-pin. Cut them out into 
 round cakes with the edge of a tumbler. 
 Butter iron pans, and lay the cakes in them. 
 Bake them of a very pale brown. If done 
 too much, they will lose their taste. 
 
 Let the oven be hotter at the top than at 
 the bottom. 
 
 These cakes kept in a stone jar, closely 
 covered from the air, will continue perfect- 
 ly good for several months. 
 
 GINGERBREAD NUTS. 
 
 Two pounds and a half of flour, sifted. 
 
 One pound of fresh butter. 
 
 One quart of sugar-house molasses. 
 
 Two ounces of ginger, or more, if it is 
 
 not very strong. 
 Twelve dozen grains of allspice, \ powder- 
 Six dozen cloves, ? ed and 
 Half an ounce of cinnamon, ' sifted. 
 A half tea-spoonful of pearl-ash or sal 
 
 seratus, dissolved in a little vinegar. 
 
 Cut up the butter in the flour, and mix 
 it with the ginger and other spice. Wet 
 the whole with the molasses, and stir all 
 well together with a knife. Then add the 
 dissolved pearl-ash or sal aeratus. 
 
 Tlirow some flour on your paste-board, 
 take the dough (a large handful at a time) 
 and knead it in separate cakes. Then put 
 all together, and knead it very hard for a 
 long lime, in one large lump. Cut the 
 lump in half, roll it out in two even sheets, 
 about half an inch thick, and cut it out in 
 little cakes, with a very small tin, about 
 the size of a cent. Lay them in buttered 
 pans, and bake them in a moderate oven, 
 taking care they do not scorch, as ginger- 
 bread is more liable to burn than any oUier 
 cake. 
 
 The oven should be hottest at top. 
 
 You may, if you choose, shajje the gin- 
 gerbread nuts, by putting flour in your 
 hand, taking a very small piece of the 
 dough, and rolling it into a little round 
 ball. 
 
 If the molasses is thin, or the weather 
 warm, they will require additional flour. 
 
 G ingerbread nuts are best when a week 
 old. 
 
 MILK BISCUITS., 
 
 Two pounds of flour, sifted. 
 Half a pound of butter. 
 Two eggs. 
 
 Six wine-glasses of milk. 
 Two wine-glasses of the best brewer's yeast, 
 or three of good home-made yeast. 
 
 Cut the butter into the milk, and warm 
 it slightly on the top of the stove, or near 
 the fire. Sift the flour into a pan, and 
 pour the milk and butter into it. Beat the 
 eggs, and pour them in also. Lastly the 
 yeast. Mix all well together with a knife. 
 
 Flour your paste-board, put the lump of 
 dough on it, and knead it very hard. Then 
 cut the dough in small pieces, and knead 
 them into round balls. Stick the tops of 
 them with a fork. 
 
 Lay them in buttered pans and set thern 
 to rise. They will probably be light in an 
 hour. When they are quite light, put 
 them in a moderate oven and bake them. 
 
 They are best when quite fresh. 
 
 COMMON GINGERBREAD. 
 
 A pint of molasses. 
 
 One pound of fresh butter. 
 
 Two pounds and a half of flour, sifted. 
 
 A pint of milk. 
 
 A small tea-spoonful of pearl-ash, or 
 
 if it is strong. 
 A tea-cup full of ginger. 
 
 Cut the butter into the flour. Add the 
 ginger. 
 
 Having dissolved the pearl-ash in a little 
 vinegar, stir it with the milk and molasses 
 alternately into the other ingredients. Stir 
 it very hard for a long time, till it is quite 
 light. 
 
 Put some flour on your paste-board, take 
 out small portions of the dough, and make 
 it with your hand into long rolls. Then 
 curl up the rolls into round cakes, or twist 
 two rolls together, or lay tliem in straight 
 lengths or sticks side by side, and touching 
 each other. Put iliem carefully in buttered 
 pans, and bake them in a moderate oven, 
 not hot enough to burn them. If they 
 should get scorched, scrape off with a 
 knife, or grater, all the burnt parts, before 
 you put the cakes away. 
 
 You can, if you choose, cut out the 
 dough with tins, in the shape of hearts, 
 circles, ovals, &c. or you may bake it 
 all in one, and cut it in squares when 
 cold. 
 
 If the mixture appears to be too thin, 
 add, gradually, a little more sifted flour. 
 
24 
 
 CAKES. NUTS, AND GINGERBREAD. 
 
 LAFAYETTE GINGERBREAD; 
 
 Five eggs. 
 
 Half a pound of brown sugar. 
 
 Half a pound of fresh butter. 
 
 A pint of sugar-house molasses. 
 
 A pound and a half of flour. 
 
 Four table-spoonfuls of ginger. 
 
 Two large sticks of cinnamon, n a • a 
 
 Three dozen grains of allspice, > ' , -r. i 
 rrr, , r 1 S and silted. 
 
 1 nree dozen oi cloves, •' 
 
 The juice and grated peel of two large 
 
 lemons. 
 
 A little pearl-ash or sal jeratus. 
 
 Stir the butter and sugar to a cream. 
 Beat the eggs very well. Pour the molas- 
 ses, at once, into tiie butter and sugar. 
 Add the ginger and other spice, and stir 
 all well together. 
 
 Put in the egg and flour alternately, stir- 
 ring all the time. Stir the whole very hard, 
 and put in the lemon at the last. Wiien 
 the whole is mixed, stir it till very light. 
 
 Butler an earthen pan, or a tiiick tin or 
 iron one, and put the gingerbread in it. 
 Bake it in a moderate oven, an hour oi" 
 more, according to its thickness. Take 
 care that it do not burn. 
 
 Or you may bake it in small cakes j or 
 little tins. 
 
 Its lightness will be much improved by a 
 small tea-spoonful of pearl-ash dissolved in 
 a tea-spoonful of vinegar, and stirred lightly 
 in at the lasti If the pearl-ash is strong, half 
 a tea-spoonful will be sufficient, or less even 
 will do. It is I)etter to stir the pearl-ash 
 in, a little at a time, and you can tell by 
 the taste of the mixture, when there is 
 enough. Too much pearl-asiij will give it 
 an unpleasant taste. 
 
 If you use pearl-ash, you must omit the 
 lemon, as its taste will be entirely destroy- 
 ed by the pearl-ash. Yf)U may substitute 
 for the lemon, some raisins and currants, 
 well floured to prevent their sinking. 
 
 This is the finest of all gingeibread, but 
 should not be kept long, as in a few da3s 
 it becomes very hard and stale. It is best 
 the day it is baked. 
 
 NEW-YEAR'S CAKE. 
 
 Seven pounds of flour, sifted. 
 Half a pound of butter. 
 Half a pound of lard. 
 
 Two pounds and a half of white Havanna 
 sugars 
 
 Having sifted the flour, spread the sugar 
 on the paste-ljoard, a little at a timcj and 
 crush it to powder by rolling it with the 
 
 rolling-pin. Then mix it with the flouri 
 Cut up in the flour the butter and the lard, 
 and mix it well by rubbing it in with your 
 hands. Add by degrees enough of cold 
 water to make a stiff dough. Then knead 
 the dough very hard, till it no longer sticks 
 to your hands. Cover it, set it away for 
 an hour or two, and then knead it again 
 in the same manner. You may repeat the 
 kneading several times. Then cut it into 
 pieces, roll out each piece into a sheet half 
 an inch thick. Cut it into large flat cakes 
 with a tin cutter. You may stamp each 
 cake with a wooden print, by way of or- 
 namenting the surface. 
 
 Spiinkle with flour some large flat tin 
 or iron pans, lay the cakes in them and 
 bake them of a pale brown> in an oven of 
 equal heat throughout. 
 
 These cakes require more and harder 
 kneading than any others, therefore it is 
 best to have them kneaded by a man, or a 
 very strong woman; 
 
 They are greatly improved by the addi- 
 tion of some carraway seeds worked into 
 the dough. 
 
 A DOVER CAKE. 
 
 Half a pint of milk. 
 
 A half tea-spoonful of pearl-ash, dissolved 
 
 in a little vinegar. 
 One pound of sifted flour. 
 One jwund of jx>vvdered white sugar* 
 Half a pound of buttert 
 Six eggsi 
 
 One glass of brandyj 
 Half a glass of rose-water. 
 One grated nutmeg. 
 A tea-spoonful of powdered cinnamon. 
 
 Dissolve the pearl-ash in vinegar. Stir 
 the sugar and butter to a cream, and add 
 to it gradually, the spice and liquor. Beat 
 the eggs very light, and stir them into tJid 
 butter and sugar, alternately, witiithe flour; 
 Add, gradually, the milk, and stir the 
 whole very hard. 
 
 Butter a large tin pan, and put in th6 
 mixture. Bake it two hours or morcj in a 
 moderate oven. If not thick, an hour or 
 an hour and a half will be sufticient. 
 
 Wrap it in a thick cloth, and keep it 
 from the air, and it will continue moist and 
 fresh for two weeks. The pearl-ash will 
 give it a dark color. 
 
 It will be much improved by a pound of 
 raisins, btoned and cut in half, and a pound 
 of ciUTants, well washed and dried. 
 
 Flour the fruit well, and stir it in at the 
 last; 
 
CAKES, NUTS, AND GINGERBREAD. 
 
 •2:5' 
 
 CRULLERS. 
 
 iTalf a pound of butter. 
 
 Three quarters of a pound of powdered 
 
 white sugar. 
 Six eggs, or seven if they are small. 
 Two pounds of flour, sitted. 
 A grated nutmeg. 
 
 A tea-spoonful of powdered cinnamon. 
 A table-spoonful of rose-water. 
 
 Cut the butter into the flour, add the 
 sugar and spice, and mix them well to- 
 gether. 
 
 Beat the eggs, and pour them into the 
 pan of flour, &c. Add the rose-water, and 
 mix the whole into a dough. If the eggs 
 and rose-water ai"e not found sufficient to 
 wet it, add a very little cold water. Mix 
 the (lough very well with a knife. 
 
 Spread some flour on your paste-board, 
 take the dough out of the pan, and knead 
 it very well. Cut it into small pieces, and 
 knead each separately, i'lit ail the pieces 
 together, and knead the uhjle in one lump. 
 Roll it out into a large square sheet, about 
 half an inch thick. Take a jagging-iron, 
 or, if you have not one, a sharp knife; run 
 it along the slieet, and cut the dough into 
 long narrow slips. Twist them up in va- 
 rious forms. Have ready an iron pan 
 with melted lard. Lay the crullers lightly 
 in it, and fry them of a light brown, turn- 
 ing them with a knife and fork, so as not 
 to break them, and taking care that both 
 sides are cquiilly done. 
 
 When sufficiently fried, spread them on 
 a large dish to cool, and grate loaf-sugar 
 over them. 
 
 Crullers may be made in a plainer way, 
 with tlie best brown sugar, (rolled very 
 iine,) and without spice or rose-water. 
 
 They can be fried, or latlior boiled, iii a 
 deep iron pot. They shuuld be d(Mie in a 
 large quantity of lard, and taken out with 
 a skimmer that has holes in it,auJ held on 
 the skimmer till the lard diains from them. 
 If for family use, they can be made an inch 
 thick. They will keep several days, and 
 be as good as when fresh. 
 
 WAFFLES. 
 
 Six eggs. 
 
 A pint of milk. 
 
 A quarter of a pound of butter. 
 
 A quarter pound of powdered white sugar. 
 
 A pound and a half of flour, sifted. 
 
 A tea-spoonful of powdered cinnamon. 
 
 Warm the milk slightly. Cut up the 
 butter in it and stir it a little. Beat the 
 «gg3 well, and pour them into the butter 
 C 
 
 and milk. Sprinkle in half the flouf) 
 
 gradually. Stir in the sugar, by degrees, 
 and add the spice. Stir in, gradually, the 
 remainder of the flour, so that it becomes 
 a thick batter. 
 
 Heat your wafile-iron; then grease it 
 well, and pour in some of the batter. Shut 
 the iron tight» and bake the waffle on both 
 sides, by turning the iron. 
 
 As the waflies are baked, spread them 
 out separately on a clean napkin. When 
 enough are done for a plate-full, lay them 
 on a plate in two piles, buttering them, 
 and sprinkling each with beaten cinnamon. 
 
 DOUGH-NUTS. 
 
 Three pounds of sifted flour. 
 
 A pound of powdered sugar. 
 
 Three quarters of a pound of butter. 
 
 Four eggs. 
 
 Half a iarge tea-cup full of best brewer's 
 
 yeast. 
 A pint and a half of milk. 
 A tea-spoonful of powdered cinnamon. 
 A grated nutmeg. 
 A table-spoonful of rose-water. 
 
 Cut up the butter in the flour. Add the 
 sugar, spice, and rose-water. Beat the 
 eggs very light, and pour them into the 
 mixture. Add the yeast, (half a tea-cup 
 or two wine-glasses full,) and then stir in 
 iha uiiik by degrees, sf) ix-j to make it a soft 
 dough. Cover it, and set it to rise. 
 
 When quite light, cut it in diamonds 
 with a jagging-iron or a sharp knife, and 
 fry them in lard. Grate loaf-sugar over 
 them wiien done. 
 
 SOFT MUFFINS. 
 
 Five eggs. 
 
 A quart of milk. 
 
 Two ounces of butter. 
 
 A t«a-spoonful of salt. " 
 
 Two large table-spoonfuls of brewer's yeasl 
 
 or four of home-made yeast. 
 Enough of sifted flour to make a stiff batter. 
 
 Warm the milk and butter togedier, and 
 add to them the .salt. Beat the eggs very 
 light and stir them into the milk and but'- 
 ter. Then stir in the yeast, and lastly, 
 sufficient flour to make a thick batter. 
 
 Cover the mixture, and set it to rise, in 
 a warm place, aliout three hours. 
 
 When it is quite light, grease your bak" 
 ing-iron, and your nuiffin rings. Set the 
 rings on the iron, and pour the batter into 
 them. Bake them a light brown. When 
 you split them to put on the butter, do not 
 
36 
 
 CAKES, NUTS, AND GINGERBREAD. 
 
 cut them with a knife, but pull them open 
 with your hands. Cutting them while hot 
 will make them heavy. 
 
 INDIAN BATTER CAKES. 
 
 A quart of sifted Indian meal, \ 
 
 A handful of wheat flour sifted, > mixed. 
 
 Three eggs, well beaten, ' 
 
 Two table-spoonfuls of fresh brewer's yeast, 
 
 or four of home-made yeast. 
 A tea-spoonful of salt. 
 A quart of milk. 
 
 Make the milk quite warm, and then 
 put into it the yeast and salt, stirring them 
 well. Beat the eggs, and stir tlieni into 
 the mixture. Then, gradually, stir in the 
 flour and Indian meal. 
 
 Cover the batter, and set it to rise four 
 or five hours. Or if ihe weather is cold, 
 and you want the cakes for breakfast, you 
 may mix the batter late the night befoie. 
 
 Should you find it sour in the morning, 
 dissolve a small tea-spoonful of pearl-ash 
 in as much water as will cover it, and stir 
 it into the batter, letting it set afterwards 
 at least half an hour. This will take oft' 
 the acid. 
 
 Grease your baking-iron, and pour on 
 it a ladle-fiill of the batter. When brown 
 on one side, turn the cake on the other. 
 
 Indian batter cakes may be made in a 
 plain and expeditious way, by putting three 
 pints of cold water or cold milk into a 
 pan, and gradually sifting into it (stirring 
 all the time) a quart of Indian meal mixed 
 with half a pint of wheat-flour, and a small 
 spoonful of salt. Stir it very hard, and it 
 may be baked immediately, as it is not ne- 
 cessary to set it to rise. 
 
 CREAM CAKES. 
 
 A quart of cream. . 
 
 Four eggs. 
 
 Sifted flour sufficient for a thick batter. 
 
 A small tea-spoonful of pearl-ash, or a 
 
 larger one of sal-aeratus. 
 A small tea-spoonful of salt. 
 
 Beat four eggs till very light, and stir 
 them by degrees into a quart of cream. 
 Add, gradually, enough of sifted flour to 
 make a thick batter. Put in the salt. 
 Dissolve the pearl-ash in as much vinegar 
 as will cover it, and stir it in at the last. 
 
 Bake the mixture in muflin-rings. Send 
 the cakes to table quite hot. TuU them 
 open, and butter them. 
 
 For these cakes sour cream is better than 
 sweet. 
 
 FLANNEL CAKES OR CRUMPETS. 
 
 Two pounds of flour, sifted. 
 
 Four eggs. 
 
 Three table-spoonfuls of the best brewer's 
 
 yeast, or four and a half of home-made 
 
 yeast. 
 A pint of milk. 
 
 Mix a tea-spoonful of salt with the flour, 
 and set the pan before the fire. Then warm 
 the milk, and stir into it the flour, so as 
 to make a stiff" batter. Beat the eggs very 
 light, and stir them into the yfiast. Add 
 the eggs and yeast to the batter, and beat 
 all well together. If it is too stiff", add a 
 little more warm milk. 
 
 Cover the pan closely and set it to rise 
 near the fire. Bake it, when quite light. 
 
 Have your baking-iron hot. Grease it, 
 and pour on a ladle-full of batter. Let it 
 bake slowly, and when done on one side, 
 turn it on the other. 
 
 Butter the cakes, cut them across, and 
 send them to table hot. 
 
 ROLLS. 
 
 Three pints of flour, sifted. 
 
 Two tea-spoonfuls of salt. 
 
 Four table-spoonfuls of the best brewer's 
 
 yeast, or six of home-made yeast. 
 A pint of hike-warm water. 
 Half a pint more of warm water, and a 
 
 little more flour to mix in before the 
 
 kneading. 
 
 Mix the salt with the flour, and make a 
 deep hole in the middle. Stir the warm 
 water into the yeast, and pour it into the 
 hole in the flour. Stir it with a spoon just 
 enough to make a thin batter, and sprinkle 
 some flour over the top. Cover the pan, 
 and set it in a warm place for several hours. 
 
 When it is light, add half a pint more 
 of luke-warm water; and make it, with a 
 little more flour, into a dough. Knead it 
 very well for ten minutes. Then divide it 
 into small pieces, and knead each separate- 
 ly. Make them into round cakes or rolls. 
 Cover them, and set them to rise about an 
 hour and a lialf. 
 
 Bake them, and when done, let them re- 
 main in the oven, without the lid, for about 
 ten minutes. 
 
 RICE CAKES FOR BREAKFAST. 
 
 Put half a pound of rice in soak over 
 night. Early in the morning boil it very 
 soft, drain it from the water, mix with it 
 a quarter of a pound of butter, and set it 
 
SWEETMEATS AND JELLIES. 
 
 27 
 
 away to cool. When it is cold, stir it into 
 a quart of milk, and add a very little salt. 
 Beat six eggs, and sift half a pint of flour. 
 Stir the egg and flour alternately into the 
 rice and milk. Having beaten the whole 
 very well, bake it on the griddle in cakes 
 about the size of a small dessert-plate. 
 Butter them, and send them to table hot. 
 
 JELLY CAKE. 
 
 Stir together till very light, half a pound 
 of fresh butter and half a pound of pow- 
 dered white sugar. Beat twelve eggs very 
 light, and stir ihem into the butter and su- 
 gar, alternately with a pound of sifted flour. 
 Add a beaten nutmeg, and half a wine- 
 glass of rose-water. Have ready a flat 
 
 circular plate of tin, which must be laid 
 on your griddle, or in the oven of your 
 stove, and well greased with butter. Pour 
 on it a large ladle-full of the batter, and 
 bake it as you would a buck-wheat cake, 
 taking care to have it of a good shape. 
 It will not require turning. Bake as many 
 of the.se cakes as you want, laying each on 
 a separate plate. Then spread jelly or 
 marmalade all over the top of each cake, 
 and lay another upon it. Spread that also 
 with jelly, and so on till you have a pile 
 of five or six, looking like one large thick 
 cake. Trim the edge nicely with a pen- 
 knife, and cover the top with powdered 
 sugar. Or you may ice it; putting on the 
 nonpareils or sugar-sand in such a manner 
 as to mark out the cake in triangular di- 
 visions. When it is to be eaten, cut it in 
 three-cornered slices as you would a pie. 
 
 SWEETMEATS AND JELLIES. 
 
 GENERAL DIRECTIONS. 
 
 In preparing sugar for sweetmeats, let it be entirely dissolved, 
 before you put it on the fire. If you dissolve it in water, allow 
 about half a pint of water to a pound of sugar. 
 
 If you boil the sugar before you add the fruit to it, it will be 
 improved in clearness by passing it through a flannel bag. Skim 
 off the brown scum, all the time it is boiling. 
 
 If sweetmeats are boiled too long, they lose their flavor and 
 become of a dark color. 
 
 If boiled too short a time, they will not keep well. 
 
 You may ascertain when jelly is done, by dropping a small 
 spoonful into a glass of water. 
 
 If it spreads and mixes with the water, it requires more boiling. 
 If it sinks in a lump to the bottom, it is sufficiently done. This 
 trial must be made after the jelly is cold. 
 
 Raspberry jelly requires more boiling than any other sort. 
 Black currant jelly less. 
 
 Keep your sweetmeats in glass jars, or in those of white queen's 
 ware. 
 
SWEETMEATS AND JELLIES. 
 
 BLANCMANGE. 
 
 Four calf's feet. 
 
 A pint and a half of thick cream.* 
 
 Half a pound of loaf-sugar, broken up. 
 
 A glass of wine. 
 
 Half a glass of rose-water. 
 
 A tea-spoonful of mace, beaten and sifted. 
 
 Get four calf's-feet; if possible some 
 that have been scalded, and not skinned. 
 Scrape, and clean them well, and boil them 
 in three quarts of water till all the meat 
 drops off the bone. Drain the liquid 
 through a colander or sieve, and skim it 
 well. Let it stand till next morning to 
 congeal. Then clean it well from the sed- 
 iment, and put it into a tin or bell-metal 
 kettle. Stir into it, the cream, sugar, and 
 mace. Boil it hard for (ive minutes, stir- 
 ring it several times. Then strain it 
 through a linen cloth or napkin into a 
 large bowl, and add the wine and rose- 
 water. 
 
 Set it in a cool place for three or four 
 hours, stirring it very frequently with a 
 spoon, to prevent the cream from separat- 
 ing from the jelly. The more it is stirred 
 the better. Stir it till it is cool. 
 
 Wash your moulds, wipe them dry, and 
 then wet them with cold water. When the 
 blancmange becomes very thick, (that is, 
 in three or four hours, if tlie weather is not 
 too damp) put it into your moulds. 
 
 When it has set in them till it is quite 
 firm, loosen it carefully all round with a 
 knife, and turn it out on glass or china 
 plates. 
 
 If you wish to make it with almonds, 
 take an ounce of blanched bitter almonds, 
 and two ounces of sweet. Beat them in a 
 mortar to a fine paste, pouring in occasion- 
 ally a little rose-water. When the mixture 
 is ready to boil, add the ahnonds to it grad- 
 ually, stirring them well in. Or you may 
 stir them in, while it is cooling in the 
 bowl. 
 
 If it inclines to slick to the moulds, set 
 them an instant in hot water. It will then 
 turn out easily. 
 
 If you choose to make it without calf's 
 feet, you can substitute an ounce of the best 
 and clearest isinglass (or, if in summer, an 
 ounce and a quarter) boiled with the other 
 ingredients. If made with isinglass, you 
 must use two ounces of sweet, and an ounce 
 of bitter ahnonds, with the addition of the 
 grated rind of a large lemon, and a large 
 stick of cinnamon, broken up, a glass of 
 wine, and half a glass of rose-water. These 
 
 * Blancmange is greatly improved by boiling 
 in the cream an ounce of bitter almonds brok- 
 en in pieces, or a handful of peacli-leaves. 
 
 ingredients must be all mixed together, with 
 a quart of cream, and boiled haid for five 
 minutes. The mixture must then be strain- 
 ed through a napkin, into a large bowl. 
 Set it in a cool place, and stir it frequently 
 till nearly cold. It must then be put into 
 the moulds. 
 
 You may substitute for the almonds, 
 half a gill of noyau, in which case, omit 
 the wine. 
 
 CALF^S-FEET JELLY. 
 
 Eight calf's feet. 
 
 Three quarts of water. 
 
 A pint of white wine. 
 
 Three lemons. 
 
 The vi^hites of six eggs. 
 
 Half an ounce of cinnamon. 
 
 Half pound loaf-sugar, broken into lumps. 
 
 Endeavor to procure calf's-feet, that 
 have been nicely scalded, but not skinned, 
 as the skin being left on, makes the jelly 
 much firmer. 
 
 The day before you want to use the jelly, 
 boil the eight calf's-feet in three quarts of 
 waier, till the meat drops from the bone. 
 When sufficiently done, put it into a colan- 
 der or sieve, and let the liquid drain from 
 the meat, into a broad pan or dish. Skim 
 off the fat. Let the jtlly stand till next 
 day, and then carefully scrape off the sedi- 
 ment from the bottom. It will be a firm 
 jelly, if too much water has not been used, 
 and if it has boiled long enough. If it is. 
 not firm at first, it will not become so af- 
 terwards when boiled with the other ingre- 
 dients. There should on no account be 
 more than three quarts of water. 
 
 Early next morning, put the jelly into a 
 tin kettle, or covered tin pan j set it on the 
 fire, and melt it a little. Take it off, and 
 season it with the cinnamon slightly broken, 
 a pint of Madeira wine, three lemons cut 
 in thin slices, and half a pound of loaf- 
 sugar, broken up, 
 
 U yi>u w ish it high-coloj-ed, add two ta- 
 ble-spoonfuls of French brandy. Mix all 
 well together. Beat, slightly, the whites 
 of six eggs (saving the egg-shell) and stir 
 the whites into tiie jelly. Break up the 
 egg-shells into very small pieces, and throw 
 them in also. Stir the whole very well 
 together. 
 
 Set it on the fire, and boil it hard five 
 miiuites, but do not stir it, as that will pre- 
 vent its clearing. Have ready a large 
 white flannel bag, the top wide, and the 
 bottom tapering to a point. 
 
 Tie the bag to the backs of two chairs, 
 or to the legs of a table, and set a white 
 dish or a mould under it- 
 After the jelly ha$ boiled five roinyteSj 
 
SWEETMEATS. 
 
 pour it hot into the bag, and let it drip 
 through into the dish. Do not squeeze tlie 
 bag, as that will make the jelly dull and 
 cloudy. 
 
 If it is not clear the first time it passes 
 through the bag, empty out alP the ingre- 
 dients, wash the bag, suspend it again, put 
 another white dish under it, pour tlie jelly 
 back into the bag, and let it drip through 
 again. Repeat this six or eight times, or 
 till it is clear, putting a clean dish under it 
 every time. If it does not drip freely, 
 move the bag into a warmer place. 
 
 When the jelly has all dripped through 
 the bag, and is clear, set it in a cool place 
 to congeal. It will sometimes congeal im- 
 mediately, and sometimes not for several 
 hours, particularly if the weather is warm 
 and damp. If the weather is very cold von 
 must take care not to let it freeze. When 
 it is quite firm, which perhaps it will not 
 be till evening, fill your glasses with it, 
 piling it up very high. If you make it in 
 a mould, you must either set the mould un- 
 der the bag while it is dripping, or pour 
 it from the dish into the mould while it is 
 liquid. When it is perfectly congealed, 
 dip the mould for an instant in Ijoiling water 
 to loosen the jelly. Turn it out on a glass 
 dish. 
 
 This quantity of ingredients will make 
 a quart of jelly when finished. In cool 
 weather it maybe made a day or two before 
 it is wanted. 
 
 You may increa.se the seasoning, (that is, 
 the wine, lemon, and cinnamon,,) according 
 to your taste, but less than the above pro- 
 portion will not be sufficient to flavor the 
 
 '"t 
 
 Ice jelly is made in the same manner, 
 only not so stiff. Four calves-feet will Ixi 
 sufficient. Freeze it as you would ice- 
 cream, and serve it up in glacises. 
 
 APPLE JELLY. 
 
 Take the best pippin, or bell-fl(nver ap- 
 ples. No others will make good jelly, 
 rare, core, and (juarter them. Lay them 
 in a preserving kettle, and put to them as 
 much water only, as will cover tiiem, and 
 as much lemon-peel as you choose. Boil 
 them till they are soft, but not till they 
 break. Drain off the water through a co- 
 lander, and mash the apples with the back 
 of a spoon. Put them into a jelly-bag, set 
 a deep dish or pan under it, and squeeze out 
 the juice. 
 
 To every pint of juice, allow a pound 
 of loaf-sugar, broken up, and the juice of 
 two lemons. Put the apple-juice, the su- 
 gar, and the lemon-juice, into the preserv- 
 ing kettle. Boil it twenty minutes, skim- 
 ming it well. Take it immediately from 
 C2 
 
 the kettle, and pour it warm into your 
 glasses, but not so hot as to break them. 
 When cold, cover each glass with white 
 paper dipped in brandy, and tie it down 
 tight with another paper. Keep them in a 
 cool place. 
 
 Quince Jelly is made in the same man- 
 ner, but do not pare the quinces. Quarter 
 them only. 
 
 RED CURHANT JELLY. 
 
 Wash your currants, drain them, and 
 pick them from the stalks. Mash them 
 with the back of a spoon. Put them in a 
 jelly-bag, and squeeze it till all tlie juice is 
 pressed out. 
 
 To every pint of juice, allow a pound of 
 the best loaf-sugar. Put the juice and the 
 sugiir into your kettle, and boil them twen- 
 ty minutes, skimming all the while. Pom- 
 it warm into your glasses, and when cold, 
 tie it up witli brandy paper. Jellies should 
 never be allowed to get cold in the kettle. 
 If boiled too long, they will lose their fla- 
 vor, and become of a dark color. 
 
 Strawberry, raspberry, blackberry, and 
 grape jelly may be made in the same man- 
 ner, and with the same proportion of loaf- 
 sugarv 
 
 Red cui'rant jelly may also be made in a 
 \ery simple manner, by putting the currants 
 whole into the kettle, with the sugar; al- 
 lowing a pound of sugar to a pound of cur- 
 rants. Boil thom together twenty minutes, 
 skinvning carefully. Then pour them into 
 a sieve, with a pan under it. Let them 
 drain thnjugh the sieve into the pan, press- 
 ing them down with the back of a spoon. 
 
 Take the jelly, while warm, out of the 
 pan, and put it into your glasses. Tie it 
 up with brandy paper when cold. 
 
 This jelly is best made of an equal quan- 
 tity of red and white currants. 
 
 BLACK CURRANT JELLY. 
 
 Pick the currants from the stalks, wash 
 and drain them. Mash them soft with a 
 spoon, put tiiem in a bag, and squeeze out 
 tlie juice. To each pint of juice, allow 
 three quarters of a pound of loaf-sugar. 
 Put the juice and sugar into a preserving 
 kettle, and boil them about ten minutes, 
 skimming them welL Take it immediate- 
 ly out of the kettle. Put it warm into 
 your glasses. Tie it up with brandy paper. 
 
 The juice of black currants is so very 
 thick, that it recjuires less sugar and less 
 boiling than any other jelly. 
 
-w 
 
 30 
 
 SWEETMEATS. 
 
 GOOSEBERRY JELLY. 
 
 Cut the gooseberries in half, (they must 
 be green) and put them in a jar closely 
 covered. Set the jar in an oven, or pot 
 filled with boiling water. Keep the water 
 boiling round the jar till the gooseberries 
 are soft, take them out, mash them with a 
 spoon, and put tliem into a jelly-bag to 
 drain. When all the juice is squeezed out, 
 measure it, and to a pint of juice, allow a 
 poimd of loaf-sugar. Put the juice and 
 sugar into the preserving kettle, and boil 
 them twenty minutes, skimming carefully. 
 Put the jelly warm into your glasses. Tie 
 them up with brandy paper. 
 
 Cranberry jelly is made in the same 
 manner. 
 
 GRAPE JELLY. 
 
 Pick the grapes from the stems, wash 
 and drain them. Mash them with a spoon. 
 Put them in the preserving kettle, and cov- 
 er them closely with a large plate. Boil 
 them ten minutes. Then pour them into 
 your jelly bag, and squeeze out the juice. 
 
 Allow a pint of juice to a pound of sugar. 
 Put the sugar and juice into your kettle, 
 and boil them twenty minutes, skimming 
 them well. 
 
 Fill your glasses while the jelly is warm, 
 and tie them up with brandy |)apers. 
 
 PEACH JELLY. 
 
 Wipe the wool off your peaches, (which 
 should be free-stones and not too ripe) and 
 cut tliem in quarters. Crack the stones, 
 and break the kernels small. 
 
 Put the peache-s and the kernels into a 
 covered jar, set them in boiling water, and 
 let them boil till they are soft. 
 
 Strain them throiigh a jel!y-bag, till all 
 the juice is squeezed out. Allow a pound 
 of loaf-sugar to a pint of juice. Put the 
 sug.ir and juice into a presersing kettle, 
 and boil them twenty minutes, skimming 
 carefully. 
 
 Put the jelly warm into y.ur glasses, and 
 when cold, tie thein uj) with brandy paper. 
 
 Plum, and green-gage jelly may be made 
 in the same manner, witli the kernels, 
 which greatly improve the flavor. 
 
 PRESERVED QULNCES. 
 
 Pare and core your quinces, carefully 
 taking out the parts that are knotty and 
 
 defective. Cut them into quarters, or into 
 round slices. Put them into a preserving 
 kettle, and cover them with the parino-s 
 and a very little water. Lay a large plate 
 over them to keep in the steam, and boil 
 them till they are tender. 
 
 Take out the quinces, and strain the 
 liquor through a bag. To every pint of 
 liquor, allow a pound of loaf-sug-ar. Boil 
 the juice and sugar together, about ten 
 minutes, skimming it well. Then put in 
 the quinces, and boil them gently twentv 
 minutes. When the sugar seems to have 
 completely penetrated them, take them out, 
 put them in a glass jar, and pour the juice 
 over them warm. Tie them up, when cold, 
 with brandy paper. 
 
 In preserving fruit that is boiled first 
 without the sugar, it is generally better 
 (after the first boiling) to let it stand till 
 next day before you put the sugar to it. 
 
 PRESERVED PIPPINS. 
 
 Pare and core some of the largest and 
 finest pippins. Put them in your preserv- 
 ing kettle,* with some lemon-peel, and all 
 the apple-parings. Add a very little water, 
 and cover them closely. Boil them till 
 they are tender, taking care tliey do not 
 burn. Take out the apples, and spread 
 them on a large dish to cool. Pour the 
 liquor into a bag, and strain it well. Put 
 it into your kettle with a pound of loaf- 
 sugar to each pint of juice, and add lemon 
 juice to your taste. Boil it five minutes, 
 skimming it well. Then put in the whole 
 apples, and boil them slowly half an hour, 
 or till they arc quite soft and clear. Put 
 them with the juice, into your jars, and 
 when quite cold, tie them up with brandy 
 paper. 
 
 I'eserved apples are only intended for 
 present use, as they will not keep long. 
 
 Pears may Ije done in the same way, 
 either whole or cut in half. They may be 
 flavored either with lemon or cinnamon, 
 or bolh. The pears for preserving should 
 be green. 
 
 PRESERVED PEACHES. 
 
 Take the largest and finest free-stone 
 peaches, before they are too ripe. Pare 
 
 * Tlie use of brass or bell metal kettles is 
 now almost entirely superseded by the enam- 
 elled kettles of iron lined with china, called 
 preserving kettles ; brass and bell-metal hav- 
 ing always been objectionable on account of 
 the verdigris which collects in them. 
 
SWEETMEATS 
 
 31 
 
 them, and cut them in halves or in quarters. 
 Crack the stones, and take ont the kernels, 
 and break tlieui in pieces. Put the peach- 
 es, witli the parings and kernels, into your 
 preserving kettle, with a very little water. 
 Boil them till they are tender. Take out 
 the peaches and spread them on a large 
 dish to cool. Strain the liquor through a 
 bag or sieve. JXext day, measure the juice, 
 and to each pint allow a pound of loaf- 
 sugar. Put tlie juice and sugar into the 
 kettle with the peaches, and boil them 
 slowly half an hour, or till they are quite 
 soft, skiinming all the time. Take the 
 peaches out, put them into your jars, and 
 pour the warm liquor over them. When 
 cold, tie them up with brandy paper. 
 
 If boiled too long, they will look dull, 
 and be of a dark color.* 
 
 If you do not wish the juice to be very 
 thick, do not put it on to boil with the 
 sugar, but first boil the sugar alone, with 
 only as much water as will dissolve it, 
 and skim it well. Let the sugar, in all 
 cases, be entirely melted before it goes on 
 the lire. Having boiled the sugar and 
 water, and skimmed it to a clear sirup, 
 then put in your juice and fruit together, 
 aud boil them till completely penetrated 
 with tlie sugar. 
 
 ANOTHER WAY OF PRESERVING 
 PEACHES. 
 
 Take large juicy ripe free-stone peaches, 
 pare them and cut them in quarters. Crack 
 half the stones, and blanch the kernels in 
 scalding water. Weigh the peaches, and 
 to each pound allow a pound of loaf-sugar. 
 Mix them with the kernels, lay them in a 
 deep dish, or tureen, and mix with them 
 also the sugar. Cover them and let them 
 set all night. 
 
 In the morning put the peaches and su- 
 gar with the kernels into a preserving ket- 
 tle, and boil them till soft and clear; skim- 
 ming tiiem carefully. Use no water, as 
 the juice that has been drawn out while 
 they lay in the sugar will be sulticient. 
 
 When colJ, put them in jars and tie 
 them up witli brandy-paper, leaving the 
 kernels among them. 
 
 Green gages and plums may be done in 
 this manner when quite ripe, using also 
 half the kernels. 
 
 * To preserve peaches whole, pare them 
 and thrust out the stones with a skewer. 
 Then proceed as above, only blanch the ker- 
 nels and keep them whole. When the peach- 
 es are done, stick a kernel into the hole of 
 every peach, before you put them into the jars. 
 Large fruit will keep best in broad shallow 
 Blone pots. 
 
 PRESERVED CRAB APPLES. 
 
 Wash your fruit. Cover the bottom of 
 your preserving kettle with grape leaves. 
 Put in the apples. Hang them over the 
 fire, with a very little water, and cover 
 them closely. Do not allow them to boil, 
 but let them simmer gently till they are yel- 
 low. Take them out, and spread them on 
 a large dish to cool. Pare and core them. 
 Put them again into the kettle, with fresh 
 vine-leaves under and over them, and a 
 very little water. Hang them over the 
 fire till they are green. Do not let them 
 boil. 
 
 Take them out, weigh them, and allow a 
 pound of loaf-sugar to a pound of crab- 
 apples. Put to the sugar just water enough 
 to dissolve it. When it is all melted, put 
 it on the fire, and boil and skim it. Then 
 put in your fruit, and boil the apples till 
 they are quite clear and soft. Put them 
 in jars, and pour the warm liquor over 
 them. When cold, tie them up with bran- 
 dy paper. 
 
 PRESERVED PLUMS. 
 
 Cut your plums in half, (they must not 
 be quite ripe,) and take out the stones. 
 Weigh the plums, and allow a pound of 
 loaf-sugar to a pound of fruit. Crack the 
 stones, take out tlie kernels and break them 
 in pieces. Boil the plums and kernels very 
 slowly for about fifteen minutes, in as little 
 water as possible. Then spread them on 
 a large disli to cool, and strain the liquor. 
 
 Next day make your sirup. Melt the 
 sugar in as little water as will suffice to 
 dissolve it, (about a gill of water to a 
 pound of sugar) and boil it a few minutes, 
 skimming it till quite clear. Then put in 
 your plums with the liquor, and boil them 
 fifteen minutes. Put tliem in jars, pour 
 the juice over them warm, and tie them 
 up, when cold, with brandy paper. 
 
 Plums for common u.~e,are very good done 
 in molasses. Put your plums into an earthen 
 vessel that hohls a gallon, having first slit 
 each plum widi a knife. To three quarts 
 of plums put a pint of molasses. Cover 
 them and set them on hot coals in the 
 chimney corner. Let them stew for twelve 
 hours or more, occasionally stirring them, 
 and renewing the coals. Next day put 
 them up in jars. Done in this manner 
 ihey will keep till the next spring. 
 
 Sirups may be improved in clearness, 
 by adding to the dissolved sugar and water, 
 some white of egg very well l>eaten, allow- 
 ing the white of one egg to two pounds of 
 sugar. Boil it very hard, (adding the 
 egg-shells) and skim it well, that it may 
 be quite clear before you put in your fruit. 
 
32 
 
 SWEETMEATS. 
 
 PRESERVED STRAWBERRIES. 
 
 Weigh the strawberries after you have 
 picked off the stems. To each pound of 
 fruit allow a pound of loaf-sugar, which 
 must be powdered. Strew half of the su- 
 gar over the strawberries, and let them 
 stand in a cold place two or three hours. 
 Then put them in a preserving kettle over 
 a slow fire, and by degrees strew on the 
 rest of the sugar. Boil tliem fifteen or 
 twenty minutes, and skim them well. 
 
 Put them in wide-mouthed bottles, and 
 when cold, seal the corks. 
 
 If you wish to do them whole, take them 
 carefully out of the sirup, (one at a time) 
 while boiling. Spread them to cool on 
 large dishes, not letting the strawberries 
 touch each other, and when cool, return 
 them to the sirup, and boil them a little 
 longer. Repeat this several times. 
 
 Keep the bottles in dry sand, in a place 
 that is cool and not damp. 
 
 Gooseberries, currants, raspberries, cher- 
 ries and grapes may be done in the same 
 manner. The stones must be taken from 
 jfc;.. the cherries (which should be morellas, or 
 rt*- the largest and best red cherries ; ) and the 
 seeds should be extracted from the grapes 
 withthesharppointof a penknife. Goose- 
 berries, grapes, and cherries, require long- 
 er boiling than strawberries, raspberries or 
 currants. 
 
 PRESERVED CRANBERRIES. 
 
 Wash your cranberries, weigh them, and 
 to each pound allow a pound of loaf-sugar. 
 Dissolve the sugar in a very little water, 
 (about a gill of water to a pound of sugar) 
 and set it on the fire in a preserving kettle. 
 Boil it nearly ten minutes, skimming it 
 well. Then put in your cranberries, and 
 boil them slowly, till they are quite soft, 
 and of a fine colour. 
 
 Put them warm into your jars or glasses, 
 and tie them up with brandy paper, when 
 cold. 
 
 All sorts of sweetmeats keep better in 
 glasses, than in stone or earthen jars. 
 \Vhen opened for use, they should be tied 
 up again immediately, as exposure to the 
 air spoils thetn. 
 
 Common glass tumblers are very conve- 
 nient for jellies, and preserved small fruit. 
 White jars are better than stone or earth- 
 en, for large fruit. 
 
 PRESERVED PUMPKIN. 
 
 Cut slices from a fine high-colored pump- 
 kin, and cut the slices into chips about the 
 thickness of a dollar. The chips should 
 
 be of an equal size, six inches in length, 
 and an inch broad. Weigh them, and al- 
 low to each pound of pumpkin chips, a 
 pound of loaf-sugar. Have ready a suffi- 
 cient number of fine lemons, pare off the 
 yellow rind, and lay it aside. Cut the 
 lemons in half, and squeeze the juice into 
 a bowl. Allow a gill of juice to each pound 
 of pumpkin. 
 
 Put the pumpkin into a broad pan laying 
 the sugar among it. Pour the lemon-juice 
 over it. Cover the pan, and let the pump- 
 kin chips, sugar and lemon-juice, set all 
 night. 
 
 Early in the morning put the whole into 
 a preserving pan, and boil all together 
 (skimming it well) till tlie pumpkin be- 
 comes clear and crisp, but not till it breaks. 
 It should have the appearance of lemon- 
 candy. You may if you choose, put some 
 lemon-peel with it, cut in very small pieces. 
 
 Half an hour's boiling (or a little more) 
 is generally sufficient. 
 
 When it is done, take out the pumpkin, 
 spread it on a large dish, and strain the 
 sirup through a bag. Put the pumpkin 
 into your jars or glasses, pour the sirup 
 over it, and tie it up with brandy paper. 
 
 If properly done, this is a very fine 
 sweetmeat. The taste of the pumpkin 
 \\ ill be lost in that of the lemon and sugar, 
 and the sirup is particularly pleasant. It 
 is eaten without cream, like preserved 
 ginger. It may be laid on puff-paste shells, 
 after they are baked. 
 
 RASPBERRY JAM. 
 
 Allow a pound of sugar to a pound of 
 fruit. Mash the raspberries and put them 
 with the sugar into your preserving-kettle. 
 Boil it slowly for an hour, skimming it 
 well. Tie it up with brandy paper. 
 
 All jams are made in the same manner. 
 
 PRESERVED PINE-APPLE. 
 
 Pare your pine-apples, and cut them in 
 thick slices taking out the core. Weigh 
 the slices and to eacli pound allow a pound 
 of loaf-sugar. Dissolve the sugar in a verj 
 small quantity of water, stir it, and set it 
 over the fire in a preserving-kettle. Boil 
 it ten minutes, skimming it well. Then 
 put in it the pine-apple slices, and boil 
 them till they are clear and soft, but not 
 till they break. About half an hour (or 
 perhaps less time) will suffice. Let them 
 cool in a large dish or pan, before you put 
 them into your jars, which you must do 
 carefully, lest they break. Pour the sirup 
 over them. Tie them up with brandy paper. 
 
SWEETMEATS. 
 
 ANOTHER WAY OF PRESERVING 
 PINE-APPLES. 
 
 Having pared your pine-apples, slice 
 thern and take out the core from the noid- 
 dle of each slice, leaving a round hole. 
 To each pound of pine-apple allow a pound 
 of loaf-sugar. Mix half the sugar with 
 the pine-apple, and let them lie in it all 
 night, or for several hours, to extract the 
 juice. Then mix them with the remaining 
 half of the sugar, and put the whole into a 
 preserving-kettle. Boil it till they are 
 clear and tender, but not till the slices 
 break. Skim it well. Set it away to 
 cool, and then put it into large glass-jars 
 tied up with brandy-paper. 
 
 but will be tough and ropy: and must be 
 boiled over again. 
 
 While boiling, stir it frequently, and 
 take care that it does not burn. After it 
 has boiled about two hours and a half, stir 
 in the lemon-juice or the essence of lemon. 
 It will be improved by adding the yellow 
 rind of the lemon, grated so fine as not to 
 be visible when boiled. If the lemon is 
 put ill too soon, all the taste will be boiled 
 out. 
 
 MOLASSES CANDY. 
 
 Two quarts of West India Molasses. 
 One pound of brown sugar. 
 The juire of two large lemons, or a tea- 
 spoonful of strong essence of lemon. 
 
 Mix together the molasses and sugar — 
 taking care to use West India Molasses, 
 which for this purpose is much the best. 
 
 Put the mixture into a preserving-kettle, 
 and boil it for three houis over a moderate 
 fire. When it is thoroughly done, it will 
 of itself cease boiling. If sufficiently boil- 
 ed, it will be crisp and brittle when cold. 
 If not boiled enough, it will never congeal, 
 
 When it is quite done, butter a square 
 tin pan and pour the mixture into it to cool. 
 If you prefer it with ground nuts, roast 
 a quart of them, and then shell and blanch 
 them. Stir the ground-nuts into the mix- 
 ture, a few minutes before you take it from 
 the fire. Stir them in gradually. In the 
 same manner you may make it with al- 
 monds. The almonds must be blanched, 
 cut in pieces and stirred in raw, when the 
 molasses and sugar have just done boiling. 
 If you wish to make it yellow, take some 
 out of the tin pan while it is yet warm, and 
 pull it out into a thick string between the 
 thumb and fore-finger of both hands. Ex- 
 tend your arms widely as you pull the candy 
 back and forwards. By repeating this for 
 a long time it will gradually become of a 
 I light yellow color, and of a spongy consist- 
 I ence. When it is quite yellow, roll it into 
 ; sticks; twist two sticks together, and cut 
 j them off smoothly at both ends. Or, you 
 j may variegate it by twisting together a 
 I stick that is quite yellow and one that, not 
 \ having been so much pulled, still remains 
 ! brown. 
 
 OYSTERS. 
 
 SPICED OYSTERS. 
 
 Two hundred large fresh oysters. 
 
 Four table-spoonfuls of strong vinegar. 
 
 A nutmeg, grated. 
 
 Three dozen of cloves, whole. 
 
 Eight blades of mace, whole. 
 
 Two tea-spoonfuls of salt if the oysters are 
 
 fresh. 
 Two tea-spoonfuls of whole allspice. 
 As much cayenne pepper as will lie on the 
 ) point of a knife. 
 
 Put the oysters, with their liquor, into 
 a large earthen pitcher. Add to them the 
 vinegar and all the other ingredients. Stir 
 all well together. Set them in the stove, 
 or over a slow fire, keeping them covered. 
 Take them off the fire several times, and 
 stir them to the bottom. As soon as they 
 boil completely they are sufficiently done ; 
 if they boil too long they will be hard. 
 
 Pour thern directly out of the pitcher 
 
 into a pan, and set them away to cool. 
 They must not be eaten till quite cold, or 
 indeed till next day. 
 
 If you wish to keep them a week, put a 
 smaller quantity of spice, or they will taste 
 too much of it by setting so long. Let 
 them be well covered. 
 
 Oysters in the shell may be kept all win- 
 ter by laying them in a heap in the cellar, 
 with the concave side upwards to hold in 
 the li(|Uor. Sprinkle them every day with 
 id water, and then with Indian 
 
 strong salt and 
 meal. Cover then: 
 old carpet. 
 
 with matting or ao 
 
 STEWED OYSTERS. 
 
 Open the oysters and strain the liquor. 
 Put to the liquor some grated stale bread, 
 and a little pepper and nutmeg, adding a 
 glass of white wine. Boil the liquor with 
 these ingredients, and then pour it scalding 
 
34 
 
 OYSTERS. 
 
 hot over the dish of raw oysters. This 
 will cook iheni sufficiently. 
 
 Have ready some slices of buttered toast 
 with the crust cut off. When the oysters 
 are done, dip the toast in the liquor, and 
 lay the pieces round the sides and in the 
 bottom of a deep dish. Pour the oysters 
 and liquor upon the toast, and send them 
 to table hot. 
 
 OYSTER SOUP. 
 
 Three pints of large fresh oysters. 
 
 Two table-spoonfuls of butter, rolled in 
 
 flour. 
 A bunch of sweet herbs. 
 A saucer full of chopped celery. 
 A quart of rich milk. 
 Pepper to your taste. 
 
 Take the liquor of three pints of oysters. 
 Strain it, and set it on the fire. Put into 
 it, pepj:>er to your taste, two table-spoonfuls 
 of butter rolled in flour, and a bunch of 
 sweet marjoram and other pot-herbs, with 
 a saucer full of chopped celery. When it 
 boils, add a quart of rich milk — and as 
 soon as it boils again, take out the herbs, 
 and put in the oysters just l)efore you send 
 it to table. Boiling them in the soup will 
 shrivel them and destroy their taste. Leave 
 in the celery. Toast several slices of bread. 
 Cut them into small squares, and put them 
 into the soup before it goes to table. 
 
 ANOTHER WAY OF STEWING 
 OYSTERS. 
 
 Strain all the liquor from the oysters, 
 and thicken the liquor with stale bread 
 grated (which is much better than flour) 
 some whole pepper, and some mace. Grate 
 some nutmeg into it. Boil the liquor with- 
 out the oysters, — adding a piece of butter 
 rolled in flour. 
 
 Lay a slice of buttered toast in the bot- 
 tom of a deep dish, and surround the sides 
 vvith small slices cut into three corner or 
 pointed pieces. All the crust must be cut 
 off from the toast. 
 
 Put the raw oysters into the dish of toast, 
 and when the liquor has boiled hard, pour 
 it scalding hot over them. Cover the dish 
 closely, and let it set for five minutes or 
 more, before you send it to table. This 
 will cook the oysters sufticiently, will swell 
 them to a larger size, and cause them to 
 retain more of their flavor than when stew- 
 ed in the liquor. 
 
 Take care not to make it too thick with 
 the grated bread. 
 
 FRIED OYSTERS. 
 
 For frying, choose the largest and finest 
 oysters. Beat some yolks of eggs, and 
 mix with them grated bread, and a small 
 quantity of beaten nutmeg and mace and a 
 little salt. Having stirred this batter well, 
 dip your oysters into it, and fry them in 
 lard, till they are of a light brown color. 
 Take care not to do them too much. Serve 
 them up hot. 
 
 For grated bread, some substitute crack- 
 ers pounded to a powder, and mixed with 
 yolk of egg and spice. 
 
 BAKED OR SCOLLOPED OYSTERS. 
 
 Grate a. small loaf of stale-bread. But- 
 ler a deep dish well, and cover the sides 
 and bottom with bread crums. Put in 
 half the oysters with a little mace and pep- 
 per. Cover them with crums and small 
 bits of butter stiewed over them. Then 
 put in the remainder of the oysters. Sea- 
 son them. Cover them as before with 
 crums and butter. If the oysters are 
 fresh, pour in a little of the liquor. If 
 they are salt, substitute a little water. 
 Bake them a very short time. You may 
 cook them in the small scolloped dishes 
 made for the purpose. 
 
 OYSTER-SAUCE. 
 
 When your oysters are opened, take care 
 of all the liquor, and give them one boil 
 in it. Then take the oysters out, and put 
 to the liquor three or four blades of mace. 
 Add to it some n)elted butter, and some 
 thick cream or rich milk. Put in your 
 oysters and give them a boil. As soon as 
 they come to a boil, take them off" the fire. 
 
 PICKLED OYSTERS. 
 
 Four hundred large fresh oysters. 
 
 A pint of vinegar. 
 
 Eight spoonfuls of salt. 
 
 A pint of white wine. 
 
 Six table-spoonfuls of whole black pepper,. 
 
 Eight blades of mace. 
 
 Strain the liquor of the oysters and boil 
 it. Then pour it hot over the oysters, and 
 let them lie in it about ten minutes. Then 
 take them out, and cover them. Boil the 
 liquor with the salt, pepper, mace, vinegar 
 and wine. When cold, put the oysters in 
 a close jar, and pour the liquor over them. 
 Cover the jar very tight, and the oysters 
 will keep a long time. 
 
 If the oysters are salt, put no salt to tjhe 
 liquor, . *^ 
 
MISCELLANEOUS. 
 
 35 
 
 TERRAPINS. 
 
 Having boiled your terrapins for ten 
 minutes, take them out of tlie water and 
 pull off the outer shell. Then boil them 
 again, till the claws become tender. 
 
 Afterwards take them out of the inner 
 shell, and be careful not to break the gall, 
 which must be taken from the liver and 
 thi-own away: likewise throw away the 
 spongy part; all the rest being fit to eat. 
 
 Cut the terrapins into small pieces, put 
 them into a stew-pan, with a little salt, 
 cayenne pepper, and some butter. After 
 they have stewed a few minutes in the but- 
 ter, pour in a very small quantity of water, 
 in the proportion of a wine-glass- full to 
 each terrapin. 
 
 When tliey have stewed about ten min- 
 utes, add some butter rolled in flour, and 
 a glass of white wine to each terrapin, and 
 let them stew five minutes longer. Then 
 take them from the fire. 
 
 Have ready some beaten yolk of egg 
 (allowing one yolk for two terrapins) stir 
 it in, cover the pan tightly, let it set for 
 five or six minutes, then put it into a tur- 
 een or deep dish and send it to table. 
 
 A-LA-MODE BEEF. 
 
 A round of fresh beef weighing from eight- 
 een to twenty pounds. 
 
 A pound of the fat of bacon or corned pork. 
 
 The marrow from the"! 
 
 bone of the beef, , , , 
 
 A quarter of a pound ^ chopped together. 
 
 of beef-suet, J 
 
 Two bundles of pot herbs, parsley, thyme, 
 small onions, &c. chopped fine. 
 
 Two large bunches of ^ sufficient when 
 sweet marjoram, f powdered to make 
 
 Two bunches of sweet f four table-spoon- 
 basil, J fuls of each. 
 
 Two large nutmegs, ) i . 
 
 Hir ° r , > beaten to a pow- 
 
 all an ounce ol cloves, c , *^ 
 
 Half an ounce of mace. 
 
 One table-spoonful of salt. 
 
 One table-spoonful of pepper. 
 
 Two glasses of Madeira wine. 
 
 If your a-la-mode beef is to be eaten 
 cold, prepare it three days before it is 
 wanted. 
 
 Take out the bone. Fasten up the open- 
 ing with skewers, and tie the meat all 
 round with tape. Rub it all over on both 
 sides with salt. A large round of beef 
 will lie more tender than a small one. 
 
 Chop the marrow and suet together. 
 Pound the spice. Chop the pot-herbs very 
 fine. Pick the sweet marjoram and sweet 
 basil clean from the stalks, and rub the 
 leaves to a powder. You must have at 
 least four table-spoonfuls of each. Add the 
 
 pepper and salt, and mix well together all 
 the ingredients that compose the seasoning. 
 
 Cut the fat of the bacon or pork into 
 pieces about a quarter of an inch thick 
 and two inches long. With a sharp knife 
 make deep incisions all over the round of 
 beef and very near each other. Put first 
 a little of the seasoning into each hole, 
 then a slip of the bacon pressed down hard 
 and covered with more seasoning. Pour 
 a little wine into each hole. 
 
 When you have thus stuffed the upper 
 side of the beef, turn it over and stuff in 
 the same manner the under side. If the 
 round is very large, you will require a 
 larger quantity of seasoning. 
 
 Put it in a deep baking dish, pour over 
 it some wine, cover it, and let it set till 
 next morning. It will be much the better 
 for lying all night in the seasoning. 
 
 Next day put a little water in the dish, 
 set it in a covered oven, and bake or stew 
 it gently for twelve hours at least, or more 
 if it is a large round. It will be much 
 improved by stewing it in lard. Let it re- 
 main all night in the oven. 
 
 If it is to be eaten hot at dinner, put it 
 in to stew the evening before, and let it 
 cook till dinner-time next day. Stir some 
 wine and a beaten egg into the gravy. 
 
 If brought to table cold, cover it all over 
 with green parsley, and stick a large bunch 
 of something green in the centre. 
 
 What is left will make au excellent hash 
 the next day. 
 
 A BONED TURKEY. 
 
 A large turkey. 
 
 Three sixpenny loaves of stale bread. 
 
 One pound of fresh butter. 
 
 Four eggs. 
 
 One bunch of pot-herbs, parsley, thyme, 
 
 and little onions. 
 Two bunches of sweet marjoram. 
 Two bunches of sweet basil. 
 Two nutmegs. j , , 
 
 Half an ounce of cloves, i pounded 
 
 A quarter of an ounce of mace, ^ 
 A table-spoonful of salt. 
 A table-spoonful of pepper. 
 
 Skewers, tape, needle, and coarse thread 
 will be wanted. 
 
 Grate the bread, and put the cnists in 
 water to soften. Then break them up 
 small into the pan of crumbled bread. Cut 
 up a pound of butter in the pan of bread. 
 Rub the herbs to powder, and have two 
 table-spoonfuls of sweet marjoram and two 
 of sweet basil, or more of each if the tur- 
 key is very large. Chop the pot-herbs, 
 and pound the spice. Then add the salt 
 and pepper, and mix all the ingredients 
 well together. Beat slightly four eggs, and 
 
36 
 
 MISCELLANEOUS. 
 
 mix them with the seasoning and bread 
 crums. 
 
 After the turkey is drawn, take a sharp 
 knife and, beginning at the wings, care- 
 fully separate tlie flesh from the bone, scrap- 
 ing it down as you go; and avoid tearing 
 or breaking the skin. Next, loosen the 
 flesh from the breast and back, and then 
 from the thighs. It requires great care 
 and patience to do it nicely. When all the 
 flesh is thus loosened, take tlie turkey by 
 the neck, give it a pull, and the skeleton 
 will come out entire from the flesh, as 
 easily as you draw yoin" hand out of a glove. 
 The flesh will then be a shapeless mass. 
 With a needle and thread mend or sew up 
 any holes that may be found in the skin. 
 
 Take up a handful of the seasoning, 
 squeeze it hard and proceed to stuff the 
 turkey with it, beginning at the wings, 
 next to the body, and tlien the thighs. 
 
 If you stuff" it properly, it will again 
 assume its natural shape. Stuff' it very 
 hard. When all the stalling is in, sew up 
 the breast, and skewer the turkey into its 
 proper form, so that it will look as if it had 
 not been boned. 
 
 Tie it round with tape and bake it three 
 hours or more. Make a gravy of the gib- 
 lets chopped, and enrich it witli some wine 
 and an egg. 
 
 If the turkey is to be eaten cold, drop 
 spoonfuls of red currant jelly all over it, 
 and in the dish round it. 
 
 A large fowl may be boned and stuffed 
 in the same manner. 
 
 COLLARED PORK. 
 A leg of fresh pork, not large. 
 Two table'spoonfuls of powdered sage. 
 Two table-spoonfuls of ^ 
 
 sweet marjoram, 1 , , 
 
 One table-spoonfJl of [ Powdered. 
 
 sweet basil, J 
 
 A quarter of an ounce of mace, •\ 
 Half an ounce of cloves, > powdered. 
 
 Two nutmegs, ^ 
 
 A bunch of pot-herbs, chopped small. 
 A sixpenny loaf of stale bread, grated. 
 Half a pound of butter, cut into the bread. 
 Two eggs. 
 
 A table-spoonful of salt. 
 A table-spoonful of black pepper. 
 
 Grate the bread, and having softened 
 the crust in water, mix it w ith the cruins. 
 Prepare all the other ingredients, and mix 
 them well with the grated bread and egg. 
 
 Take the bone out of a leg of poik, and 
 rub the meat well on both sides with salt. 
 Spread the seasoning thick all over the 
 meat. Then roll it up very tightly and tie 
 it round with tape. 
 
 Put it into a d'^ep dish with a little wa- 
 
 ter, and bake it two houre> If eaten hot; 
 put an egg and some wine into the gravy. 
 VVhen cold, cut it down into round slices. 
 
 CHICKEN SALAD. 
 
 Two large cold fowls, either boiled or 
 
 roasted. 
 The yolks of nine hard-boiled eggs. 
 Half a pint of sweet oil. 
 Half a pint of vinegar. 
 A gill of mixed mustard. 
 A small tea-spoonful of cayenne pepper. 
 A small tea-spoonful of salt. 
 Two large heads, or four small ones, of 
 
 fine celery. 
 
 Cut the meat of the fowls from the bones, 
 in pieces not exceeding an inch in size. 
 
 Cut the white part of the celery into 
 pieces about an inch long. Mix the chick- 
 en and celery well together. Cover them 
 and set them away. 
 
 With the back of a wooden spoon, mash 
 the yolks of eggs till they are a perfectly 
 smooth paste. Mix them with the oil, 
 vinegar, mustard, cayenne, and salt. Stir 
 them for a long time, till they are thor- 
 oughly mixed and quite smooth. The long- 
 er they are stirred the better. When this 
 dressing is sufficiently mixed, cover it, and 
 set it away. 
 
 Five minutes before the salad is to be 
 eaten pour the dressing over the chicken 
 and celery, and mix all well together. If 
 the dressing is put on long before it is 
 wanted, the salad will be tough and hard. 
 
 This salad is very excellent made of cold 
 turkey instead of chicken. 
 
 LOBSTER SALAD. 
 
 Take two large boiled lobsters. Extract 
 all the meat from the shell, and cut it up 
 into very small pieces. 
 
 For lobster salad, you must have lettuce 
 instead of celery. Cut up the lettuce as 
 small as possible. 
 
 Make a dressing as for a chicken-salad, 
 with the yolks of nine hard-boiled eggs, 
 half a pint of sweet oil, half a pint of vin- 
 egar, a gill of mustard, a tea-spoonful of 
 cayenne, and a tea-spoonful of salt. Mix 
 all well together witii a wooden spoon. 
 
 A few minutes before it is to be eaten, 
 pour tlie dressing over the lobster and let 
 tuce, and mix it very well. 
 
 STEWED MUSHROOMS. 
 
 Take a quart of fresh mushrooms. Peel 
 them and cut pff the stems. Season them 
 with pepper and salt. Put them in a 
 sauce-pan or skillet, with a lump of fresh 
 butter the size of an egg, and sufficient 
 cream or rich milk to cover them. Put on 
 the lid of the pan, and stew the mushrooms 
 
MISCELLANEOUS. 
 
 37 
 
 about a quarter of an hour, keeping them 
 well covered or the flavor will evaponite. 
 
 When you take theui off I he fire, have 
 ready one or two beaten eggs. Stir the 
 eggs gradually into the stew, and send it 
 to table in a covered dish. 
 
 TOMATA KETCHUP. 
 
 Slice the tomatas. Put them in layers 
 into a deep earthen pan, and sprinkle every 
 layer with salt. Let them stand in this 
 state for twelve hours. Then put them 
 over the fire in a preserving-kettle, and 
 simmer them till they are quite soft. Pour 
 them into a thin linen bag, and squeeze the 
 juice from them. Season the liquor to 
 your taste, with grated horse-radish, a little 
 garlic, some mace, and a few cloves. Boil 
 it well with these ingredients — and, when 
 cold, bottle it for use. 
 
 PEACH CORDIAL. 
 
 Take a peck of cling-stone peaches J 
 such as come late in the season, and are 
 very juicy. Pare them, and cut them from 
 the stones. Crack about half the stones 
 and save the kernels. Leave the remaind- 
 er of the stones whole, and mix them with 
 the cut peaches; add also the kernels. 
 Put the whole into a wide-moutlied demi- 
 john, and pour on them two gallons of 
 double-rectified whisky. Add three pounds 
 of rock-sugar candy. Cork it tightly, and 
 set it away for three months : then "bottle 
 it, and it will be fit for use. It will be im- 
 proved in clearness by covering the bottom 
 of a sieve with blotting-paper (secured with 
 pins) and straining the cordial through it. 
 
 RASPBERRY CORDIAL. 
 
 To each quart of raspberries allow a 
 pound of loaf-sugar. Mash the raspberries 
 and strew the sugar over them, having first 
 pounded it slightly, or cracked it with the 
 rolling-pin. Let the raspberries and sugar 
 set till next day, keeping them well cover- 
 ed, then put them in a tliin linen bag and 
 squeeze out the juice with your hands. 
 To every pint of juice allow a quart of 
 double-rectified whisky. Cork it well, 
 and set it away for use. It will be ready 
 in a few days. 
 
 Raspberry Vinegar (which, mixed with 
 water, is a pleasant and cooling beverage 
 in warm weather) is made exactly in the 
 same manner as the cordial, only substitut- 
 ing the best white vinegar for the whisky. 
 
 BLACKBERRY CORDIAL. 
 
 Take the ripest blackberries. Masii 
 them, put them in a linen bag and squeeze 
 out the juice. To every quart of juice al- 
 low a pound of beaten loaf-sugar. Put ilie 
 
 sugar into a large preserving-kettle, and 
 pour the juice on it. When it is all melted, 
 set it on the fire, and boil it to a tliin jelly. 
 When cold, to every quart of juice allow a 
 quart of brandy. Stir them well together, 
 and bottle it for use. It will be ready at 
 
 CHERRY BOUNCE. 
 
 Take a peck of morella cherries, and a 
 I»eck of black hearts. Stone the morellas 
 and crack the stones. Put all tlie cherries 
 and the cracked stones into a demi-john, 
 with three pounds of loaf-sugar slightly 
 pounded or beaten. Pour in two gallons 
 of double-rectified whisky. Cork the de- 
 mi-john, and in six months the clierry- 
 bounce will be fit to pour off and bottle for 
 use; but the older it is, the better. 
 
 GIxNGER BEER. 
 
 Put into a kettle, two ounces of powder- 
 ed ginger, (or more if it is not very strong,) 
 half an ounce of cream of tartar, two large 
 lemons cut in slices, two pounds of broken 
 loaf-sugar, and one gallon of soft water 
 Simmer them over a slow fire for half an 
 hour. When the liquor is nearly cold, stir 
 into it a large table-spoonful of the best 
 yeast. After it has fermented, bottle it for 
 use. 
 
 YEAST. 
 
 Have ready two quarts of boiling water ; 
 put into it a large handful of hops, and let 
 them boil twenty minutes. Sift into a pan 
 a pound and a half of flour. Strain the 
 liquor from the hops, and pour half of it 
 over the flour. Let tlie other half of the 
 liquid stand till it is cool, and then pour it 
 gradually into the pan of flour, mixing it 
 well. Slir into it a large tea-cup full of 
 good yeast, (brewer's yeast if you can get 
 it.) Put it immediately into bottles, and 
 cork it tightly. It will be fit for use in an 
 hour. It will be much improved and keep 
 longer, by putting into each bottle a tea- 
 spoonful of pearl-ash. 
 
 COLOURING FOR ICING, &c. 
 
 To make a red coloring for icing. 
 Take twenty grains of cochineal powder, 
 twenty grains of cream of tartar, and twen- 
 ty grains of powdered alum. Put them 
 into a gill of cold soft water and boil it, 
 very slowly till reduced to one half. Strain 
 it through thin muslin, and corkit up for 
 use. A very small quantity of this mixture 
 will color icing of a beautiful piiik. With 
 pink icing, white nonpareils should be used. 
 
^oS^I^H^a^^^ LIBRARY 
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