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 THE LIBRARY 
 
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 THE UNIVERSITY 
 
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 The Journal of an 
 
 Army Surgeon during the 
 
 Peninsular War.
 
 PREFACE. 
 
 bilO 
 
 /9iX 
 
 THE following pages contain the Journal kept by the 
 late Charles Boutflower, Surgeon to the 40th (then 
 the and Somersetshire and now South Lancashire) 
 Regiment, during the Peninsular War. 
 
 It has been considered better to print the Journal exactly 
 as it was written, and any reader who might feel inclined to 
 take offence at the views of the author will kindly bear in 
 mind that it was written over a hundred years ago : and that 
 any passages which might at the present date be deemed 
 better expunged merely express the individual views of the 
 writer at that remote date. 
 
 The reader will notice that the Journal opens up with an 
 apology by the author which he will no doubt bear in mind. 
 
 The Journal has been printed by the author's relatives 
 from the original by the permission of the Revd. Douglas S. 
 Boutflower, of Christ Church, Sunderland, in whose 
 possession the Journal now is.
 
 JOURNAL. 
 
 Haec olim Meminisse Juvabit. 
 
 [1809] A g this Journal is undertaken at the request of one or two 
 
 L DGDsTj ^-^ very dear Friends, and as it will certainly never come 
 
 under the inspection of many others, 1 trust they will 
 
 deem this some Apology for the Egotisms that will naturally 
 
 prevail in it. 
 
 On the loth August, 1809, I embarked on Board the 
 Thomas Transport in order to join the 40th Regiment with 
 Sir Arthur Wellesly. It was intended we should sail the 
 following Morning, but the wind getting rovmd to the westward 
 prevented us. In the course of the nth was introduced to 
 Capn. Rodney, of H.M.S. Fylla, under Orders for Lisbon 
 with Money. Capn. R. very politely offered me a Passage. An 
 offer so agreeable I immediately availed myself of, and lost 
 no time in removing my Luggage from the Thomas to the 
 Fylla. I had particular pleasure in bidding adieu to the 
 former Vessel, as, besides the inconvenience naturally resulting 
 from her smallness, the Officers on board her were from what 
 I could ascertain in so very short a period generally exception- 
 able. Very strong westerly winds prevented our sailing 
 till the 15th, on which day we received the particulars of the 
 Memorable Battle of Talavera. It was a source of some 
 regret to us that we could not convey to our friends in Spain 
 & Portugal an account of the Capture of Flushing. On this 
 day I recollected that my dear & revered Father completed 
 his seventy-third Year, and, while I offered up a Prayer to the 
 Almighty that his valuable Life might yet be spared to his 
 Family and Friends, I had a sensation of severe pain originating 
 in the idea that from his advanced age I should never see him 
 more. Having been now three days on board the Fylla I 
 had an opportunity of observing the several characters of those
 
 [1809] who were to form my Society for the next Week or ten Days. 
 [Adgust] Prior to my introduction to Capn. Rodney, he had received 
 into his Cabin as many as he could conveniently accommodate ; 
 it was therefore necessary that I should take my Passage in the 
 Gun Room with the Officers of the Ship. The day subsequent 
 to Capn. R.'s offer I had the good fortune to be particularly 
 introduced to the Second Lieutenant.from whom in consequence 
 I received the most marked attention. 
 
 Capn. R. is the son of the celebrated Lord Rodney. He 
 is six and twenty years of age, and has been at Sea almost from 
 his infancy ; he appears very fond of his profession, and 
 certainly is remarkably attentive to everything that relates to 
 the safety of the Ship, arising less, I believe, from any personal 
 fear of danger, than from a due Sense of the serious respon- 
 sibility that attaches to the Situation of a Captain of a 
 Man of War. His Education, from a reason above stated, has 
 been much neglected, added to which his Talents are certainly 
 not above Mediocrity. His disposition, however, is very good, 
 and I should certainly form an unfavourable Opinion of an 
 Officer who could not live pleasantly under his Command. 
 Capn. R. had two Gentlemen with him in his Cabin, one of 
 them Brigr. Genl. Madden going out to command a Brigade 
 of Portuguese Troops. He was formerly Major of the 12th 
 Dragns., and served with them in Egypt, but was 
 subsequently dismissed the Service, by the Sentence of a 
 General Court Martial ; tho' the crimes were undoubtedly a 
 breach of Military Discipline, it does not appear that his 
 reputation either as an Officer or Gentleman suffered in 
 consequence, having been since almost constantly employed 
 in England as an Inspecting Field Officer, and in his present 
 employment he is evidently thought worthy of a high 
 command. He is a Man of superior Abilities, and possesses a 
 general knowledge of Men and Manners. He has visited more 
 than once almost every Court in Europe, &, having a 
 perfect knowledge of nearly all the modern languages, he has 
 been enabled to form more accurate conclusions of what came
 
 under his observation than the generality of tliose who travel. 
 From his conversation, of which I very much availed myself 
 during the Passage,! derived both information and amusement. 
 The only other Passenger in the Cabin was a Mr. Vanzeleer, 
 who may justly be styled a " vrai-Portugues," being possessed 
 of all the prejudice which so eminently distinguishes that 
 Nation. He had come to England for the purpose of investing 
 a considerable sum of money in the English Funds, justly 
 considering that every species of property is become very 
 unsafe in Portugal. He had been six months in England, 
 and, never having been out of his own Country before, anyone 
 would have naturally supposed that he would have been both 
 astonished and delighted with what he had seen, as, according 
 to his own account, he had visited everything worth seeing in 
 London and its environs, but on the contrary nothing 
 appeared to have pleased him. Prejudiced, as he certainly is, 
 I verily believe that Envy had no small share in the dissatis- 
 faction he constantly expressed when speaking of England. 
 A Portuguese who has never travelled thinks there is nothing 
 in the world equal to Lisbon; disappointed, however, on arriving 
 in other Countries to find that he has been all his Life mistaken, 
 he has not ingenuousness sufficient to avow what it is impos- 
 sible but he must be so well acquainted with. 
 
 Our Number in the Gun Room consisted of seven ; namely, 
 two Lieutenants, the Purser, Lieutenant of Marines, a Young 
 Gentleman going out as a Volunteer to General Beresford, the 
 Surgeon of the Ship, and myself. To the whole of the Officers 
 I feel indebted for their attentions, and particularly to the 
 2d Lieutenant, to whom, as I before stated, I had the good 
 fortune to be particularly introduced. This Officer possesses 
 a highly cultivated Mind, and has so great a taste for reading, 
 that during the whole Passage when not on duty I scarcely 
 once observed him without a Book in his hand. His Library 
 consisted of upwards of three hundred Volumes of the most 
 approved Authors in the English, French, Spanish, & Italian 
 Languages, ot all of which he has attained considerable know-
 
 8 
 
 [1809] ledge. His disposition appears to be naturally of the sombre 
 [AoGosT] cast, the' the recent death of his Father may probably have 
 given it that turn. We passed many hours in conversation 
 together, and he succeeded so completely in gaining my esteem 
 and regard that it was with much reluctance I bade him 
 adieu. Good fortune will, I trust, bring us together again, 
 when I shall renew my intimacy with him with unfeigned 
 pleasure. 
 
 On the i5th while beating down Channel saw H.M.S. 
 Argo with Convoy from the West Indies. From a recol- 
 lection of my own Sensations on former occasions I had an 
 idea of the happiness they were enjoying on being so near 
 their Native Shore. 
 
 17th. Fired two shots at a strange Sail to bring her to. 
 She proved to be a Revenue Cutter from Guernsey on a 
 Cruise. The Master of her came on board the Fylla, and, 
 his manner being such as gave Capn. Rodney great offence, 
 much altercation ensued. Capn. R.at length let him go, previous- 
 ly writing across his Warrant an account of his disrespectful 
 Conduct for the information of any other Captain of a Man- 
 [of-war] who might board him. 
 
 On the 1 8th, notwithstanding the continuous contrary 
 winds, we found ourselves at g a.m. off the Lizard. In the 
 afternoon were boarded by a Fishing Boat belonging to Mount's 
 Bay, which not only supplied us with fresh Fish for Dinner, but 
 was also the bearer of some Letters ashore. I availed myself 
 of this opportunity to write to my inestimable friend Mrs. B. 
 At dusk the same Evening I lost sight of the Land's End. 
 How torpid the Bosom, and how unworthy the name of 
 Britain must he be, who can quit his country without offering 
 up a fervent Prayer for its welfare. In taking a last look of 
 its fading shores a variety of Sensations occupied my Mind, 
 some of them painful ; but I think the contrary predominated. 
 A thousand instances of its many blessings and general 
 Superiority over other Nations rushed upon my recollection,
 
 and it was not without a feeling of conscious pride that I 
 called myself an Englishman. The night proved stormy, and 
 I suffered much from sea-sickness till the morning of the 21st. 
 It is somewhat strange that my susceptibility for that Com- 
 plaint appears to increase with each succeeding voyage I make. 
 On the 20th we chased a ship under suspicious circumstances. 
 Prize Money was the Order of the Day. On coming up with 
 her, however, she proved to be a Merchant Man from London 
 bound to Malta. She ran from us under the idea that we 
 were a French Privateer. 
 
 The wind still continued contrary. On the 23rd we made 
 Cape Finisterre, but were so far in the Bay that we found it 
 impossible to weather it. We were consequently obliged to 
 tack and stand out to Sea. In the Afternoon the wind 
 fortunately shifted sufficiently to enable our getting round it. 
 
 On the 24th run down the coast of Spain, passing Vigo 
 and the River Minho, which divides that country from Portugal. 
 25th, had the wind fair but little of it ; in the Afternoon came 
 in site of the Burlings, Rocks perfectly well known to all who 
 have navigated this Coast. The wind freshening this Evening 
 gave us every hope of being in Lisbon the following Morning 
 about eleven. At night being in the Latitude of Lisbon we 
 lay to till Daylight the following Morning, when we again got 
 under weigh, and stood in shore ; having to beat up the 
 Tagus it was twelve o'clock before we came to an Anchor, 
 having had a Passage of eleven Days, and, with the exception 
 of the two or three Days' bad weather, to me as pleasant a one 
 as anything could be in a Ship. During our voyage I read 
 Mdme. De Stael Holstein's Corinna in the Original, and also 
 Robertson's History of the Reign of Charles V. The 
 former is doubtless a work of considerable ability ; to the 
 story the Authoress has very happily added an Acct. of the 
 chief Paintings, Sculpture, & other Works of Art, at present 
 remaining in Italy, which, at the same time it appears to say 
 everything necessary on the Subject, never fatigues by saying 
 more than is necessary. The characters of Lord Nelvil and
 
 10 
 
 [1809] Corinna are finely drawn and are perhaps faithful delineations 
 [Acgust] Qf jjjg difference existing in the two Nations. In writing this 
 work however I think an Englishwoman would not have tar- 
 nished so many good Qualities (as Madame S. bestowed on 
 Lord N.), by his unpardonable, and as appears to me his 
 unjustifiable, inconstancy. The Character of Lucilia is in my 
 opinion highly natural. Of the latter work, there has never 
 t)een any difference of Sentiment as to the Ability with which 
 it is written. Most People in reading it, however they may 
 admire the Political ingenuity and the firmness with which he 
 (Charles) carried into effect everything likely to conduce to 
 the great objects of his Ambition, will I doubt not feel more 
 interested for his less fortunate but certainly more principled 
 Rival, Francis, the King of France ; the subtle cunning 
 & perfidy of Charles form a striking contrast to the 
 open and unsuspicious disposition of Francis, and 
 whatever the former may gain of our Admiration, 
 the latter has the Superior Merit of commanding 
 our Esteem. The Spanish Monarch to me never appeared so 
 dignified and great, as when cultivating his garden at his 
 retirement at Saint Just, and I closed his History, fully deter- 
 mined, if possible, to visit that celebrated spot during my 
 sojourn in Spain. 
 
 From the entrance of the Tagus to Lisbon is a distance 
 of about fifteen Miles ; being obliged to beat up gave us an 
 opportunity of more particularly observing both Shores. That 
 on the right side furnishes little worthy of note. The left, or 
 Lisbon side, presents a beautiful and diversified prospect, 
 chiefly consisting of the Country Seats of the Queen, Prince 
 Regent, and Nobility. The principal Forts in the Tagus are 
 first a large Tower, intended as a State Prison, which stands 
 in the centre of the River ; higher up on the left is Fort St. 
 Julian ; and still higher on the same side is Belem Castle. At 
 Belem Lisbon may be said to commence, notwithstanding 
 the City is called three miles from it. Where Belem terminates, 
 Buenos Ayres, (so called from its high & supposed healthy
 
 II 
 
 situation) begins, and again at the end of Buenos Ayres is the 
 commencement of the City of Lisbon. The whole being built 
 of white stone, and standing on the Side of a Hill, presents a 
 pleasing coup d'oeil, and promises the newly arrived stranger more 
 gratification from the expectation of visiting it than he after- 
 wards realises. After being an hour or two at Anchor I went 
 ashore for the purpose of delivering a Letter from my Friend 
 Capn. B. to a Mr. Kennedy, the Agent Victualler. On 
 arriving in Lisbon, opposite to which we had brought up, I 
 found that Mr. K. resided at Belem. I had in consequence to 
 walk (as I have before stated) a distance of three miles, and 
 nearly the length of the whole Town. This walk gave me a 
 disgust of the place I have never since been able to overcome ; 
 tho' in some degree prepared to expect a City not remarkable 
 for its cleanliness, I had never formed an idea that a Met- 
 ropolis could be so abominably filthy. I shall not enter into a 
 description of it, but shall content myself by stating that the 
 impression made upon one of my senses was such as I shall 
 not easily forget. 
 
 From Mr. Kennedy I received a most polite and 
 kind attention, and had the pleasure a day or two after to meet 
 athis House at Dinner.a very old Friend, Capn. H.of the Navy, 
 the principal agent for Transports in the Tagus. Having 
 much the same idea of Lisbon as myself he had very wisely 
 fitted up his Cabin most comfortably and constantly resided 
 aboard. He gave me a most pressing invitation to remaui 
 with him during the few Days I should stay at Lisbon, an 
 offer so concordant to my wishes that I most gladly availed 
 myself of it. I had not yet quitted the Fylla, but, as she 
 was ordered to be in readiness to proceed to England, I lost 
 no time in removing my things from her. 
 
 The day after my arrival I waited on the Commandant, 
 who informed me that it would be necessary for me to proceed 
 to join my Regiment with as little delay as possible, 
 adding that he believed I should find them at Elvas, a 
 fortified Town on the Frontier. Great was my disap- 
 pointment when I understood that the Victory at
 
 12 
 
 [1809] Talavera had not been followed by more happy Consequences. 
 [AnGDsT] I j^g^jj fyjjy gxpected to have joined the Army at Madrid, elated 
 with hope and flushed with victory. On the contrary I found 
 that they were depressed by Famine and Sickness, and in full 
 march to the Frontiers of Portugal. This reverse was owing 
 to two Causes : the neglect of the Spanish Commissariat in 
 not furnishing Provisions, and the inability not to say worse of 
 Cuesta. Fortunately for his country this General solicited his 
 resignation, a request which the Junta appears very readily to 
 have complied with. 
 [Sept.] I remained in Lisbon, or rather in the Tagus, till 
 
 the 3rd September. The oppressive state of the weather 
 prevented me from paying that attention to its Curios- 
 ities I otherwise should. The Aqueduct, which is certainly the 
 principal, I only saw from a distance ; the theatres I never 
 visited. The Convent of San Jeronymo I found worthy of 
 attention ; it is an immense building and is calculated to afford 
 a high treat to the Lovers of Architecture ; it contains some fine 
 paintings by some of the most esteemed Masters, and a very 
 good Library. On the 3rd in the evening I crossed the Tagus 
 to Aldea Gallega, a small town nearly opposite to Lisbon, and 
 about fifteen miles over. This place furnishes nothing worthy 
 of remark, being a small and dirty Town. I had much 
 difficulty in procuring a Billet ; indeed I found the People 
 generally more uncivil here than in any other place. Having 
 procured a Couple of Mules I set forward on my Journey the 
 Afternoon of the 5th, intending to sleep that Night at a Village 
 called Pegoens. On my arrival there however I found it so 
 extremely miserable and so entirely devoid of every species of 
 accommodation, that I determined to proceed to another 
 village, Vendas Novas, three Leagues further, eight Leagues or 
 thirty two miles from Aldea Gallega, a Portuguese League 
 being fully equal to four English miles. It was late when I 
 reached Vendas Novas. The Inn however afforded some bad 
 Chocolate and a miserable Bed in a more miserable Room. At 
 an early hour the following morning I set off for Montemoro 
 Novo three leagues further. On my way 1 met Col. Stibball
 
 13 
 
 of the Guards, who first informed me of the 40th being in 
 Badajos. Just as I entered this Town it commenced a heavy 
 Rain, which I feared would detain me all that Day, and prevent 
 my reaching Elvas the following ; fortunately however it 
 cleared up in the afternoon, and enabled me to proceed to 
 Arreiolis that evening. Montemoro Novo is a pretty Town of 
 some extent. It stands very high, and is fortified. The accom- 
 modation however in the Inn was little better than at Vendas 
 Novas. Arreiolis is a miserable place three Leagues distant 
 from Montemoro. My Bed looked tolerably clean, but before 
 the Morning I was nearly eat up in it ; the irritation I suffered 
 nearly threw me into a fever. Early the next Day, being the 
 7th of the Month, I set off for Estremos, six Leagues further 
 on the Road. Half way is an Inn called Venda de Duque 
 where I stopped to refresh my Mule and get myself Breakfast. 
 While there, an Officer of the 40th entered on his way to Lisbon, 
 from whom I collected all the news of the Regiment. I 
 reached Estremos in the Afternoon, and found to my satisfac- 
 tion a very good Inn, and where everything comfortable was 
 to be procured. It is well fortified and stands upon a high 
 Hill. There is a certain cleanliness in its appearance not to be 
 met with in any other Town I saw in Portugal. Indeed were 
 I compelled to live in that Country I think I should select 
 Estremos as my place of residence. 
 
 On the 8th, in the Morning I recommenced my Journey 
 for Elvas, being six leagues further and twenty-seven from 
 Aldea Gallega. I had the satisfaction of reaching it early in 
 the Afternoon, after having travelled over an hundred and four 
 Miles, evincing not the smallest Vestige of Cultivation except- 
 ing in the immediate Vicinity of the different Towns. At Elvas 
 I remained till the loth, to enable my Servant to come up, 
 having left him behind on the Road. I had the good fortune 
 here to meet with a Doctor Deane, Physician to the Forces, 
 brother to Capn. Deane of the 96th Regiment, with whom I 
 had always lived on terms of the greatest intimacy. From Dr. 
 Deane I experienced the most gratifying attentions, indeed he
 
 [1809] received me with a kindness I have rarely experienced on a 
 [Sept.] fj^gj introduction. Elvas has long been celebrated for its great 
 strength, or rather the Fort which commands it known by the 
 Name of La Lippe, which is justly considered one of the 
 most impregnable Fortifications in the world. The Aqueduct 
 here also is a very singular Structure on an immense scale. 
 The water is conveyed by it to the Town over a very uneven 
 Surface for the distance of nearly a Mile. The Town itself 
 stands high, and is remarkably strong. Like the generality of 
 Portuguese Towns however it is filthy in the extreme, so much 
 so that I sincerely congratulated myself I was not going to 
 remain in it. The Convents I found generally filled with the 
 Sick of our Army, and the numbers were truly afflicting. 
 
 From Elvas Badajos may be most distinctly seen, and it 
 appears to be very near ; they are distant however at least 
 twelve Miles. On the loth I proceeded to Badajos, where I 
 met with many of my old Friends in the 40th. The short time 
 I had been absent from them had produced great changes, as I 
 perceived a variety of new faces. Badajos is the Capital of the 
 Province of Estremadura, situated on the River Guadiana, 
 over which you pass by a Bridge of twenty-one Arches, as you 
 enter the town from Elvas. The two Countries are separated 
 by a Branch of this River, which is nearly dry in the Summer, 
 and is distant about four miles from Badajos on the Elvas 
 road. The difference between the two people at this short 
 distance is remarkable ; there is such a jealousy and even 
 hatred existing between them, that each carefully avoids 
 imitating the Manners and Customs of the other. On entering 
 Badajos I was much pleased to find an air of cleanliness 
 superior to anything I had observed in Portugal. What most 
 particularly struck me was the vast superiority that the 
 Spanish Women have ^over the Portuguese in Person, Air, 
 Appearance, and Dress. The latter are in general very slovenly, 
 while the former are particularly neat in their modes of dress, 
 and have an inexpressible elegance and dignity in their walk 
 which I have never seen in any other women.
 
 [Oct.] 
 
 15 
 
 I found everything very uncertain relative to our future 
 Movements, every Person enjoying their own private opinions. 
 This place was Head-Quarters, Lord Wellington and the Heads 
 of Departments residing here. The 40th Regiment the only 
 one here, the Army being stationed in various Quarters in the 
 different Towns in the Neighbourhood in such a manner that the 
 whole might unite in one Day in Case of necessity. 
 
 On the i2th an opportunity presented itself of writing to 
 England by a Friend, of which I availed myself. Weather 
 dreadfully hot, scarcely to be borne, even by the Inhabitants 
 who dread it much. This Month has ever been considered 
 here as the most unhealthy in the Year. It has given rise to an 
 old Spanish proverb, that whoever lives out September may 
 expect to live another Year. Diseases generally predominating 
 are Fevers and Intermittents. 
 
 The ist October. — Accts. reach us from England of the 
 intended change of Ministers. Much anxiety of course on the 
 part of Lord Wellington ; indeed a general interest on the 
 occasion by all parties, as our remaining here very probably 
 depends on the Sentiments of those who may assume the Reins 
 of Government. 
 
 8th. Lord W. quitted Badajos for Lisbon, supposed in 
 great measure for the purpose of being enabled sooner to receive 
 accts. from England. The Day preceding he gave a Dinner 
 to a Number of Spaniards of both Sexes, and in the Evening a 
 Ball to the Garrison which was crowded almost to suffocation. 
 I was much pleased with his manner. 
 
 In the midst of a variety of Reports that the 
 Army was immediately to advance towards Lisbon for 
 the purpose of embarking for England, on the 9th 
 the 3d Batt. 27th Regt. marched in here from Lisbon, which 
 gave rise to the idea that we are as certainly to remain. From 
 undoubted authority I heard that a Voluminous Report of the 
 state of the country by the Marquis Wellesly and on which 
 everything was likely to depend, after having been perused by 
 Lord Wellington, was forwarded from here on the 19th ulto.
 
 [1809] On the loth came in here to be quartered two Battalions 
 
 [Oct.] Qj- jjjg Guards, making the Garrison to consist of four Regts. 
 besides Artillery, & the difficulty of getting billets was so 
 great that very serious remonstrances were obliged to be made 
 to the Junta on the occasion, who in their turn threatened the 
 Inhabitants with severe pains and penalties if they made any 
 unnecessary obstruction to the accommodation of British 
 Officers. They are evidently getting tired of us, and, tho' they 
 have no objection to our fighting for them, they would wish 
 the Troops to remain in the Fields during the Winter ; some of 
 them are so extremely uncivil that nothing will be sufficient 
 but the entrance of French Troops into their Houses to con- 
 vince them of their ingratitude. 
 
 I write this on the 22d. October, having hitherto been 
 unable to keep a regular Journal. What I have written is chiefly 
 from Memory aided by a very few Notes. Sickness has con- 
 stantly prevailed in the Army to an alarming extent, there being 
 seldom less than eight thousand sick on an average, of which 
 number the Deaths have been most afflicting. The Weather 
 still continues very hot, but the Mornings and Evenings are 
 extremely pleasant. Lord Wellington returns this Day from 
 Lisbon, when it is probable we may learn something of the 
 intended future arrangements ; as yet we are entirely ignorant 
 of the State of the Continent. An Officer who came here a few 
 days since from the French Head-Quarters states, that he was 
 informed by the French Commandant that Peace with Austria 
 was actually signed. Should such be the case, I think there 
 can be no doubt but we should evacuate the Peninsula. It 
 would be absurd in the extreme to attempt with our Numbers 
 to oppose the undivided force of France. The Spaniards are 
 apprehensive we shall leave them, but speak with confidence 
 of bringing the Contest to a happy issue. For my own part I 
 have no doubt that the French will possess all the principal 
 Towns and Fortresses in the Kingdom, but I feel certain that 
 they will never have undisturbed possession of them ; insurrec- 
 tions will constantly prevail wherever the French are not in
 
 force, and that irreconcileable hatred & detestation the 
 
 Spaniards have for the French will induce them to murder 
 
 them whenever they can possibly effect it. 
 
 Octr. 24. Lord Wellington did not return on the 22d. 
 
 as was expected. He is still detained at Lisbon, but on what 
 
 account we know not. 
 
 Yesterday I had the satisfaction of receiving several 
 
 Letters from England, a satisfaction only to be 
 
 appreciated by those who are abroad like myself, and who 
 
 possess Friends so valuable as mine are. 
 
 This Day War was proclaimed with the usual 
 
 formalities in the principal Streets against Denmark. 
 
 The political events likely to originate from this Circumstance 
 
 are, I conceive, very small. 
 
 27th. Letters were received this Morning from Lord W. 
 
 stating his intention of being here on the 29th Inst. It is certain 
 
 he has been visiting various Situations in Portugal, from which 
 
 it is inferred that he is about to take up positions for the 
 defence of that Country. In the meantime we go on in the old 
 
 way, continually inundated with reports which all in the end 
 prove equally fallacious. The most Credulous I believe are 
 now become suspecting, and even official Accounts are 
 received with distrust. 
 
 There iscertainly a general wish throughout the Army that 
 we may soon be ordered to England, and I am sorry to observe 
 that near nine out of ten of all the Officers I have conversed 
 with on the subject would hail the News of Peace being con- 
 cluded between Austria and France, provided it led to that 
 event. For my own part I have no wish to quit this Country. 
 The weather is getting pleasanter and the number of the Sick 
 is consequently decreasing. Time so far from hanging heavy, 
 as most complain, appears to me to fly with unprecedented 
 rapidity. It is true the Amusements are limited, but Duty, 
 Books and Riding amply suffice to fill up every hour. In the 
 Evening there is at the House of one of the principal Families 
 here a Conversazione, or as it is termed in the language of this
 
 i8 
 
 [1809] Country a Pertiglia. Hither the principal Persons of both 
 [Oct.] Sexes resort, and also as many British Officers as are disposed, 
 but as the Spanish Language is known to very few of them, 
 and, as without that knowledge these parties are certainly 
 very stupid, in general there are not many English Officers 
 there. When not otherwise engaged, I generally look in ; and 
 I find that it is a very good plan to adopt in order to improve 
 in the language. My frequent Visits, which have afforded me 
 an opportunity of becoming acquainted with many of the 
 Ladies of this place, have confirmed me in the superiority I have 
 always attached to my own fair Countrywomen over all others. 
 From habit and bad example the women here even of the first 
 rank have contracted an indelicacy in their ideas and conver- 
 sation which would shock the most abandoned in England. 
 Indeed public Morals in general in this Country in both Sexes 
 are at a very low ebb, and yet in no part of the world perhaps 
 are the forms of Religion more strictly adhered to. The Bells 
 are constantly ringing for Church, into which crowds are as 
 constantly entering. In the Houses of every Family you will 
 continually hear long prayers. In the Streets even you will 
 always observe some mark or other of Devotion. How is it 
 then that such general licentiousness, so many thefts, &c, &c. 
 prevail ? Doubtless because though they have the form of 
 Religion they possess not the Spirit ; and for my own part 
 I need no other proof of the fallacy and Error of the Romish 
 Church than the conviction forced upon my mind by the Lives 
 and Conduct of its Votaries, that it is not a Religion of the 
 Heart. A Religious Mind cannot but feel shocked at the pro- 
 fane manner in which the Sabbath is observed here. It is not 
 sufficient that Amusements are partaken of in the same manner 
 as on other Days. Sunday is always selected as a Day on 
 which they are pursued with unusual avidity. Neither is 
 working, buying or selling generally abstained from. When 
 witnessing their solemn Mummeries of a Sunday Morning 
 during the Celebrations of Mass, with their Priests, decked out 
 like those of Baal, performing a number of Mystical Cerempn-
 
 19 
 
 ies in the midst of Frankincense and lighted Candles, the idea 
 of their subsequent Mode of passing the Sabbath occurs to my 
 recollection, and I involuntarily exclaim with the Apostle — 
 " Be not deceived ; God is not mocked." 
 
 Badajos furnishes nothing particularly worthy of observa- 
 tion. It abounds with Churches, and has five Convents for 
 Friars and nine for Nuns. The Cathedral is a handsome 
 building and has three Organs. It is profusely hung with 
 CrimsonVelvet edged with Gold Lace; in one part is affixed a List 
 of Books prohibited to be read by the Inquisition under pain of 
 several severe Penalties ; among others I observed the letters 
 of Lord Chesterfield and also those of Lady Mary Wortley 
 Montague; the Religious Works of the celebrated Neckar are 
 also among them. 
 
 Octr. 30 Lord Wellington returned last Night, but 
 if he brings any News it has not yet transpired. We are now 
 a long time without Accounts from England ; from whence we 
 infer that the News brought from Talavera by Captn. Gordon 
 relative to the Peace between A.ustria and France is not true, 
 though it was published as Official in General Orders at the 
 French Head-Quarters. On the 2d. of next month Lord 
 Wellington goes to Seville for a few days in order to have an 
 interview with his Brother the Marquis. Doubtless a variety 
 of opinions will be the consequence of his undertaking this 
 second Expedition. Seville is distant from Badajos about one 
 hundred and twenty miles. 
 
 [Nov.] November. In consequence of a subsequent Arrangement 
 
 Lord Wellington quitted us this Morning for Seville, instead 
 of to-morrow, as was his intention. He has left an order- 
 behind him which has considerably annoyed us ; viz., for the 
 40th Regiment to march on the 3d. Inst, to Olivenza, a small 
 town about four leagues distant from hence. Having formed 
 an acquaintance with several of the most pleasant Families, we 
 were enabled to pass our Evenings agreeably. Olivenza, I hear, 
 does not abound with many of these Houses, and the difficulty
 
 20 
 
 [1809] and trouble of getting acquainted with those few is also to be 
 [Nov.] surmounted. Another reason why I most prefer the place we 
 are now in is its being Head-Quarters, by which means we get 
 the earliest intelligence of any News there may be stirring. 
 This being the day of All Saints has been observed here with 
 much Solemnity. About eight in the morning I was attracted 
 into the Convent of the Catalans by the sound of Female 
 Voices. On entering I observed a great many women kneeling 
 before an Altar, and really singing with considerable sweetness ; 
 soon after the Nuns entered a chapel behind, grated off from 
 the Church, where mass is performed. As they brought in 
 several Lights, I had an opportunity of observing their Coun- 
 tenances, and to my surprise I found that they were all very 
 old women, not one of them appearing less than sixty. They 
 seemed to be about thirty or forty in number. They performed 
 their devotions with considerable energy assisted by a 
 miserable old Spinnet. Several British Officers were earnestly 
 looking thro' the bars of the grating, which did not at all appear 
 to attract their attention. About nine High Mass was 
 performed in the Cathedral, at which a great concourse of 
 People attended of both Sexes. The Music consisted of a fine 
 toned organ with several Violins & other Instruments. There 
 was the usual Chorus assisted by some very good lay singers 
 hired for the purpose. The selection was chiefly from Pleyel, 
 & was really very well executed ; I was much pleased with 
 it. After Mass a Sermon was preached ; my knowledge of the 
 language was just sufficient to enable me to understand that 
 after dwelling on the Holiness of the Saints the Preacher 
 exhorted all to imitate them, reminding his Hearers that they 
 had the same assistance from above, and had no greater 
 difficulties or Passions to contend with than those whose 
 sanctity he was recommending them to imitate. During the 
 Service I observed much laughing & other marks of 
 indevotion among the People, and from which the Priests 
 themselves were by no means free. 
 
 Novr. 8. In obedience to orders we marched to
 
 this place (Olivenza) on the 3d. Inst. It is a neat Town 
 formerly belonging to the Portuguese, but ceded to the Span- 
 iards in the Peace of 1801. The inhabitants are nearly all 
 Portuguese, and the hatred I have before mentioned to exist 
 between the two People is here at its height. The Garrison 
 consists of five Regiments besides Dragoons and Artillery, 
 the whole under the command of the Honble. Majr. Genl. Cole. 
 We are still without any accounts from England; inconsequence 
 great fears are entertained for the safety of the Packet. The 
 news from Lisbon reports that Buonaparte is dangerously ill 
 at Vienna, and that the Armistice is in consequence prolonged. 
 
 nth. The arrival of English papers of the 27th Ulto. 
 has served to set at issue the thousand Reports and Rumours 
 we have been lately inundated with. There appears little 
 doubt that Peace between Austria and France is concluded, 
 and yet the .\ccounts of it in the English Papers as copied from 
 the Continental ones do not appear to be of such unequivocal 
 testimony as to demand our unqualified belief. Unfortunately 
 however as there is too much reason to give Credence to it, 
 everyone is supposing what will be tlie Instructions to Lord 
 Wellington in consequence. All are agreed that we must 
 immediately evacuate the Peninsula, but the Opinions as to 
 where the Army may afterwards be ordered are innumerable. 
 It is very probable that the strongest Regiments will not return 
 to England. Among these is the 40th, who are still very 
 effective. It is however impossible to form an idea of the 
 intentions of Government on this subject. I should not have 
 the smallest objection to go up the Mediterranean ; indeed I 
 feel no objection to go to any part of the world, the West 
 Indies alone excepted. 
 
 The Accounts of Peace will doubtless considerably dis- 
 hearten the Spaniards, tho' I believe they pretty generally 
 anticipate that such a circumstance will compel us to withdraw 
 our personal assistance. 
 
 Lord Wellington was to arrive at Badajos from Seville 
 last Night. It is said that the Packet has brought out to him
 
 [1809] Dispatches of the utmost importance, which may possibly 
 [Nov.] determine the point in question. It is difficult to form an idea 
 of what will be the Sentiments of the Spaniards, if we quit the 
 Country; whether vexation and discontent for our not remain- 
 ing to do more will not prevail over the gratitude they ought 
 to feel for what we have already done. 1 should be sorry to 
 think anything should beget an Animosity towards us from a 
 People I think generally disposed to admire and esteem the 
 English Character. It is, I believe, well ascertained that, in 
 the different wars between England and Spain, and when the 
 latter Country was in the closest alliance with France, an 
 Englishman was always received with an Attention and 
 marked Regard by the Spaniards which they never could 
 testify towards a Frenchman ; and as a proof of the high 
 estimation Spain has always considered an alliance with 
 England, there is an old Spanish proverb which runs thus; — 
 "Paz con Inglaterra Y con todo el Mondo Guerra,"which simply 
 means, " Peace with England, and war with all the world." 
 
 25th. Nothing particular has occurred since the last Date. 
 There has certainly been an action in La Mancha between the 
 French & Spanish Armies, but the result is not correctly 
 known. Lord Wellington is at present on a shooting expedi- 
 tion. He has the whole of his Baggage with him, in order, it 
 is supposed, that when he proposes moving to a greater dis- 
 tance it may not be suspected. There is a general rumour 
 that the Army is about to move, but it does not appear to rest 
 on any solid foundation. 
 
 The weather from being intensely cold has become 
 extremely pleasant. The Sickness in the Garrison has been 
 I and indeed still is very alarming. The number of Sick is not 
 
 less than five hundred in this place alone. 
 
 28th. Certain Accounts have reached this place of the 
 result of the action in La Mancha. The Spaniards in killed, 
 wounded and Prisoners have not lost less than 20,000 Men, 
 and it appears that the remainder of their Army is nearly 
 dispersed.
 
 23 
 
 By the arrival of the newspapers to the 15th Inst., and 
 Accts. from apparently good Authority it seems that Minis- 
 ters have determined on defending Portugal. How long we shall 
 be able to maintain ourselves, particularly since the defeat of 
 the Spaniards, remams to be proved. There are various 
 opinions on the subject ; that we shall ultimately be compelled 
 to quit, I think admits of little doubt, tho' probably the approach- 
 ing Season, and the difficulty of procuring Supplies may pre- 
 vent the Enemy from annoying us for some time. 
 
 [Dec] December 2d. The Spaniards do not seem to be the 
 
 least dispirited at the result of the late Battle— on the contrary 
 it appears to have roused them to fresh exertions. They deny 
 that it was so disastrous as has been represented, and tho' 
 they acknowledge to have lost an immense Number of Men 
 they affirm that the loss of the French was also very great. 
 The Marquis de la Romana is stated to have taken the Command 
 of the La Mancha Array, and it is said that the first act of his 
 power was the hanging of five Colonels, whether for Treason 
 or Cowardice I have not heard. Gerona continues to hold out ; 
 and I was a few days ago assured by one of the principal 
 Inhabitantsofthis place,in a manner and with a solemnity which 
 evinced his own Credence of what he was relating, that the 
 protracted defence of Gerona and the inability of the Enemy 
 to conquer it were owing to the intercession of a Bishop who 
 lived there about sixteen centuries since, and who from his 
 uncommon Piety was justly ranked among the most eminent 
 Saints this country had produced. He also informed me that 
 he (my informer) was a Native of Gerona, and that he has now 
 four Brothers residing there who have witnessed the Bishop 
 appearing among them and stimulating them to additional 
 exertions. He added his firm belief that Saragossa had held 
 out so long by the aid afforded by our Lady of Pilar, tho' he 
 could not explain how she had at length lost her interest. He 
 was much shocked at my doubting that she had never 
 possessed it.
 
 24 
 
 [1809] On quitting the 96th Regiment I made a promise to a 
 
 [Dec] Captn. Deane in it with whom I had been particularly intimate 
 to find out if possible a Brother of his serving in this Country 
 as Physician to the Forces. On arriving at Lisbon, I enquired 
 for him and was informed he was at Elvas. On reaching the 
 latter place I soon found him out, and on making myself 
 known to him was received with a kindness and warmth I 
 had scarcely ever before experienced. I remained with him 
 two Days during which short time from a Congeniality of Sen- 
 timent we became more intimately acquainted than is usual 
 in so short a period. The urgent duties of war prevented us 
 seeing one another so often as we wished. We continued 
 however to pay reciprocal visits once a fortnight, the distance 
 from Elvas to Badajos being not more than twelve miles. On 
 my removal to this place it became totally out of my power to 
 visit Elvas any more, and Dr. Deane from being equally 
 engaged was unable to come over to Olivenza. A few days 
 since, having occasion to send to Elvas, I wrote a Note to my 
 Friend, and was horror-struck on the return of the Bearer to 
 find that he was no more. He informed me that on reaching 
 Elvas he found poor Deane very ill ; that on the note being 
 presented to him he attempted to read it but failed. He 
 expired the following Morning, and with him as much worth 
 as I ever knew in any individual. He was about twenty-eight 
 years of age, intelligent in his Profession, irreproachable in 
 conduct, and of an excellent disposition. His Physiognomy 
 was most pleasing. His Forehead and Eyes reminded me 
 strongly of an highly valued Friend I possess in England. 
 While living he had engaged the esteem of all who had the 
 happiness of his acquaintance, and since his Death the sorrow 
 expressed for his loss loudly testifies the worth and value of 
 his character. 
 
 The weather is now most delightful, but the People here 
 seem much surprised that the Rainy Season has not set in some 
 time. Sickness still prevails in the Garrison & indeed 
 generally throughout the Army. My time is so much
 
 25 
 
 engrossed by my professional duties that it is with difficulty I 
 can steal an hour now and then to keep up my communications 
 with my Friends in England. 
 
 5th. A continuance of fine weather has had a most happy 
 effect on my Sick. Those in Hospital are getting considerably 
 better, and those out keep well. I have in consequence much 
 less to do at present than I have had since my Arrival in this 
 Country. I am now enabled to take long rides into the Neigh- 
 bourhood, and was yesterday much gratified to find myself in 
 a really neat and very pretty Village. It is called St. George, 
 and has an appearance of Health, Happiness and Contentment 
 I have seldom witnessed. It consists of two narrow Streets. 
 Vines are made to grow over from the houses on one side to 
 those opposite,which in the Summer most completely exclude 
 the Rays of the Sun. There is a general Cleanliness in the 
 whole Village which I have not before observed in this Country. 
 
 There is a certain bustle at Head-Quarters, and some 
 preparations are making which in the opinion of many 
 indicate a speedy Movement. If we are about to march it is 
 devoutly to be wished it may be before the setting in of the 
 bad Weather. 
 
 I had an opportunity this Afternoon of witnessing the 
 Funeral of a Person of property. The procession consisted of the 
 different Orders of Clergy & Friars and the male Friends of 
 the deceased in great Numbers. The Body was conveyed in a 
 sort of half Coffin, and was dressed in the Clothes that the 
 deceased was in the habit of wearing when alive. During the 
 procession there was a general Clatter of the Bells, producing 
 the most inharmonious discord, so much that an Italian with 
 a fine ear would have envied the Defunct his inability of hear- 
 ing them. On entering the Church the Corpse was placed on 
 a Table, when the friends arranged themselves around it, each 
 bearing a large wax Candle. A solemn Mass is next chaunted, 
 in which the intercession of the Virgin Mary is frequently 
 invoked. This Mass performed they move to the Grave where 
 the Corpse is deposited, and a Napkin being thrown over the
 
 26 
 
 [1809] Face the Dirt is thrown in. A similar Mass is again performed 
 [Dec] which finishes the Service. Rich and Poor are all buried within 
 the Churches ; only the wealthy however are permitted to lie 
 near the Altar. It is never the custom to put a deceased 
 person into a Coffin in the mode we do in England. Both Sexes 
 are neatly dressed on their Death, and placed in a half Coffin 
 from which they are never moved. Children are frequently 
 put into the ground without any envelope. 
 
 gth. From the general orders of this Day, conjecture as 
 to moving is at an end. The Guards marched this morning 
 from Badajos, and the difl'erent Divisions of the Army are to 
 follow in succession. Speculation is however considerably 
 excited as to our destination, which is kept profoundly secret. 
 There seems no doubt that we shall in the first instance go to 
 Abrantes, but further all is lost in uncertainty. It will be 
 several Days before our Division moves. Most unfortunately 
 the weather has this Day assumed a very unpromising Appear- 
 ance, and we much fear that the wet Season is about to set in. 
 
 nth. We still know nothing of our destination. It is 
 considered very probable that we are going to the North of 
 Portugal, as information has been received of the complete 
 defeat of the Duke del Parque, and there is consequently no 
 obstacle there to an irruptionof the Army under Marshall Ney. 
 The weather continues threatening, but the wet has not yet 
 commenced. 
 
 i5th. We are still without our Route, though it is hourly 
 expected. At present our destination is Leyria. It is not 
 unlikely however it may [be] changed on the March. We have 
 had some heavy Rains and anticipate much more. The Sick 
 were most of them sent from hence this Morning. Many are 
 of opinion that we are about to embark : the Spaniards and 
 Portugueze have no other idea. We are now a long time 
 without News from England, which might probably throw 
 some light on our future Operations. Indeed it is said that 
 till Lord Wellington receives his next dispatches he is himself 
 ignorant as to our remaining or other^vise in the country.
 
 27 
 
 While writing the above the Route arrived. We march 
 to-morrow mornino; for Abrantes, at which place we are to 
 arrive on the 25th Inst, or Christmas Day. It is supposed on 
 our arrival at Abrantes that we shall receive a further route. 
 
 1 7th. At twelve o'clock this day we bade adieu to Olivenza, 
 and reached our resting place, Jerumenha, about three. It is 
 a small village prettily situated on a high Hill, but affording 
 very bad accommodation. Soon after our commencing our 
 March the Rain set in, and we arrived at our Billets well 
 drenched. Jerumenha is remarkable for having stood a long 
 Siege under Marshall Schomberg, and again in the last War 
 between the Spaniards and Portugueze. Distant from Olivenza 
 two Leagues. 
 
 i8th. Our march to-day was to Villa Vicosa about three 
 Leagues or twelve Miles. We were again considerably annoyed 
 by the wet. Villa Vicosa is one of the cleanest and neatest 
 Towns in Portugal. It is a Royal Residence, and has attached 
 to it a very extensive Park well stocked with Deer, where the 
 Prince Regent was frequently accustomed formerly to hunt. 
 
 19th. We this day marched into Estremos, twelve miles 
 from Villa Vicosa. This place I passed through on my way 
 from Lisbon to Elvas, and was much pleased with its cleanli- 
 ness over the other Towns I had observed in Portugal. The 
 difficulty in procuring Billets was very great. The Juez de 
 Foro or Chief Magistrate was a very good natured old man, 
 but appeared to know very little of the Duty attached to his 
 Situation. All the Billets he gave me proved of no use, and being 
 at length apprehensive of getting no place for myself or Horses 
 I remembered my good Friends at the Inn, who had treated me 
 very well on my passing thro' this place before. On entering 
 the House I was immediately recognised by all the Daughters, 
 four in number, and received with a most hearty welcome, 
 accompanied with the warmest Congratulations on my having 
 quitted Spain in safety, a circumstance in the opinion of a 
 Portugueze highly worthy of thanksgiving.
 
 28 
 
 [1809] 2oth. We halted this Day at Estremos. In the course of 
 
 [Dec] tjjg j)ay newspapers to the 2gth Ulto. arrived. They state ten 
 thousand men being about to embark for this Country, which has 
 been confirmed by Letters received by different Officers. This 
 renders it probable that the defence of this Country is certainly 
 to be attempted. 
 
 2ist. This IMorninn; I bade adieu to my fair Hostesses at 
 Estremos, who gave me their best wishes for my future wel- 
 fare and assurance of the best reception if I should ever again 
 travel this Road. I hadbeen two Days and Nights in this Inn 
 during which time I had a Fire constantly in my Room. They 
 provided me with an excellent Bed and good Breakfasts, also 
 Beds for my Servants and Stabling for my Horses. On going 
 away I demanded my Bill and to my Astonishment found all 
 the above comforts were provided for the moderate charge of 
 four shillings and sixpence sterling. 
 
 Our march this day was to a miserable place called Cano, 
 twelve Miles from Estremos. The Inhabitants are all poor, 
 and the place furnishes nothing worthy of observation, except- 
 ing the extreme beauty with which the Olive Groves in the 
 Neighbourhood are laid out. 
 
 22d. I was this Day detained at Cano several hours 
 after the Regiment in procuring a Car for the conveyance of 
 some Sick ; the Juez de Foro not being able to write or read 
 was obliged to issue his orders verbally, which appeared to me 
 to be very little regarded, and in consequence a considerable 
 delay took place. While the old Gentleman was busy search- 
 ing for the Car, I amused myself in conversing with his 
 Daughter, a really pretty Girl, but as ignorant of everything 
 not actually passing under her observation as a young savage in 
 the wilds of America. She overwhelmed me with Questions 
 as to the Modes and Customs of the English, and was par- 
 ticularly inquisitive as to the Ceremony of Matrimony. She had 
 been taught to belie\'e that an Englishman was by no means 
 limited in the number of his Wives.
 
 29 
 
 The Regiment halted this day at Avis, a dirty town, but 
 well known for the Richness of its Convent. We were all 
 quartered in this Building, which is certainly superior to anything 
 of the kind I have before witnessed. The Rooms of the Friars, 
 instead of being Cells (as they are generally termed), are 
 extremely well furnished, and have an elegance and neatness 
 about them scarcely observable in the private Houses of the 
 richest Inhabitants. Notwithstanding these People plead 
 poverty. 
 
 Here we learned that on our arrival at Abrantes we 
 should receive a further Route to Coimbra, a distance of about 
 ninety miles. 
 
 24th. We did not quit Avis till this morning, and our 
 resting place to-night is at Ponte del Sor, a miserable Village 
 affording nothing worthy of observation. 
 
 27th. We reached Abrantes on the 25th, and halted there 
 that and the succeeding Day. It is a populous town, standing 
 extremely high and capable of being very strongly fortified. 
 Like most other Towns in this Country it is intolerably filthy, 
 and on walking thro' it I felt much pleased that we were not 
 to remain there. The Dukedom was bestowed by Buonaparte 
 upon Junot, in consequence of its possessing some rich 
 domains, and I have no doubt His Grace on his return here 
 will make up his long Arrears with considerable interest. The 
 Tagus runs at the bottom of the Hill on which the town stands. 
 We crossed it by a Bridge of Boats, which might be almost 
 instantly destroyed in case of necessity. 
 
 Our march this Day was to asmall Village called Puenhete, 
 standing also on the Banks of the River. The Day being beau- 
 tiful and the Prospects fairer than anything I had before seen 
 in Portugal rendered this Morning's travelling extremely 
 pleasant. After our arrival here, having taken some refresh- 
 ment, I ascended to a great eminence for the purpose of 
 seeing a Convent, which however contained nothing remarkable. 
 The scenery however from this height was finer than anything 
 I ever saw, and were I compelled to live in Portugal I should
 
 30 
 
 [1S09] doubtless choose this Situation ; the extent of view from it is 
 [Dec] immense ; on every side were to be seen extensive Olive 
 Groves, and on the slopes of the Hills near the Tagus a variety 
 of neat houses were interspersed. The serpentine course of 
 the River in this neighbourhood adds much to the beauty of 
 the Prospect. I was much fascinated with this scene, and I 
 wished ardently for the power my sweet friend, C. M., 
 possesses with her Pencil, that I might have taken a sketch of 
 it. 
 
 30th. On the 28th we quitted Puenhete, and marched to 
 Thomar, a considerable Town and Head-Quarters for the 
 Portugueze Troops. Marshal Beresford is at present there. 
 We had an opportunity of seeing one of the Regiments at 
 Parade which have been drilled by English Officers. They 
 were well clothed and made an excellent appearance. The 
 Soldier-like Manner in which they went through their 
 Evolutions astonished the English Officers. I should really 
 expect much from them if opposed to the Enemy. 
 
 Our Commanding Officer was informed by Genl. Beresford 
 that our march would not terminate at Coimbra. Guarda a 
 town near the Frontiers is said to be our destination. The 
 last week has been remarkably fine, which at this time of the 
 Year we may consider a piece of singular good fortune. 
 
 Yesterday we halted at a small village called Aldeacruz, 
 but affording an excellent Market and at a much cheaper rate 
 than any other place we had been at in Portugal. We reached 
 our present halting place (Leyria) this Afternoon where we 
 are to remain to-morrow. Our Route this Day lay through a 
 variety of Fir Groves, which for their extent and beauty are 
 said to be unequalled. 
 
 [1810] Jan. 6th. We remained at Leyria on the 31st. The Town 
 
 [Jan.] is old, and affords little worthy of note. On an Eminence near 
 
 it stands a Ruin, which has long been considered as extremely 
 
 fine. It was formerly a Moorish Castle of great strength. The 
 
 Chapel still remains entire, but has not been used as a place
 
 31 
 
 of worship for some time. When the French were at Leyria, 
 some Monks made resistance, and three of them were shot in 
 the Chapel. 
 
 On New Year's Day we quitted Leyria, and marched to 
 Pombal, a small Town, but known in History as having given 
 a title to the most Eminent Minister that Portugal ever 
 possessed. In a Convent there we saw a Coffin containing the 
 remams of the celebrated Marquis, which, I know not for 
 what reason, have never been interred. In the same Chapel 
 was pointed out to us by the Friar who conducted us an Ima^ e 
 of the Virgin, which he said had been put into a Fire of great 
 heat but could not be consumed. The Image was of common 
 Wood. Near it was a Record of various Miracles which had 
 been performed thro' her intercession. We did not appear to 
 doubt his Narratives, and I fancy he quitted us laughing up 
 his sleeve at our apparent folly. 
 
 On the 2d. we marched to a small place called Condixe, 
 which afforded a good Market and better accommodation 
 than the exterior appearance of the Houses at first led us to 
 expect. I do not know that the People as we go Northward 
 are poorer than those of the South, but Shoes and Stockings 
 are not to be seen amongst the lower Orders of Females since 
 we quitted Leyria. The Men go well shod, with Stockings. 
 
 On the 3d. we reached Coimbra, the largest City in 
 Portugal, with the exception of Lisbon and Oporto. It is the 
 only University in the Kingdom, and appears to be at present 
 thronged with Students. They are formed into a Corps, and 
 many amongst them formerly distinguished themselves against 
 the Enemy. These are distinguished by a Medal and Ribband. 
 The common dress of the Students is a black Gown of Cloth 
 over their common Dress, which is also all black. The Cap is 
 likewise sable, and similar in shape to a double Night Cap. 
 
 This Town aflfords a great deal worthy of the attention of 
 a Traveller. The Colleges, Convents, &c. &c. are very fine. 
 There is also a Museum here which is said to contain a very
 
 32 
 
 [1810] rare collection of Natural Curiosities. Unfortunately my Time 
 [Jan.] there was so fully occupied by Duty that I was not able to 
 visit any of the Curiosities. My Billet there was excellent, 
 and my Bed-had so inviting an appearance, that I half feared 
 getting into it from an anticipation of the contrast I should 
 experience before reaching the end of my Journey. Here we 
 were made acquainted with our destination, which is a small 
 Town eighteen leagues from here called Celorico. The whole 
 Army are to be in Cantonments, at such distances as to be 
 easily brought together in case of necessity. It would appear 
 that Lord Wellington has no immediate expectation of a Visit 
 from the Enemy, as he purposes going to Lisbon, as the Army 
 are settled in their new Quarters. The Morning we quitted 
 Coimbra I saw him in his full dress uniform as Captain 
 General of Portugal, accompanied by Marshal Beresford and 
 a numerous Staff, going to review some Portugueze Regiments 
 Theinhabitants were running out in crowds in [order] to see him; 
 indeed he is perfectly idolized by the Portugueze nation. On 
 this day he purposed quitting Coimbra for Viseu which is to 
 be Head-Quarters. I am informed by an Officer who dined 
 with him at Coimbra, that he never saw him in such spirits. 
 He has however at present a most serious responsibility upon 
 him. 
 
 Yesterday we had a most fatiguing march of nearly Thirty 
 Miles thro' infamous Roads. It was dark before we reached 
 our halting place, a miserable Village called Puente de 
 Murcella, affording the most wretched Accommodation. My 
 fears at Coimbra were here amply realised. We quitted the 
 place at eight o'clock this Morning, and reached our halting 
 place, Leyroza, at three in the Afternoon. It is almost deserted 
 by the former Inhabitants, but we are much better off than 
 last N ight. The Scenery from Coimbra to this place is truly grand, 
 and quite exceeds an adequate description of it. The Hills are 
 immensely high, and the tops of the highest of them are 
 covered with Snow. Below all has the appearance of Spring, 
 from the extreme fineness of the weather, & from the
 
 33 
 
 immense quantity of wood about here, which is all of the 
 evergreen Species. 
 
 1 2th. On the 7th the Regiment marched for Penascos, 
 but the Cars with the Convalescents not having come up I 
 remained behind for them. It was late in the Afternoon before 
 they arrived, when I proceeded with them to another Village 
 about half a league in advance called Gallicis. Here we halted 
 for the Night, and a most uncomfortable Evening I passed. My 
 Room was exposed to all the keenness of a North wind which 
 blew with uncommon violence. I could not procure a spark 
 of Fire, and not having an individual to speak to made the 
 Evening appear still more cheerless. Early the following morning 
 we set out for Penascos, a distance of four long leagues thro' a 
 wretched Road. On arriving there I found that the original 
 Route of the Regiment was at present changed, and that 
 instead of going to Celerico they had proceeded to Melo, a 
 smaller place about three Leagues from hence & the same 
 distance from Celerico. My Evening at Penascos was spent 
 somewhat more pleasantly than the former one, the Night 
 being finer and my Room less exposed. I passed a couple of 
 Hours in the perusal of a French Poem I procured at Coimbra, 
 called Pitie, from the pen of De Lille. It does equal Credit to 
 the Head and Heart of its Author. 
 
 I forgot to state a circumstance which came under my 
 observation at Leyrosa. It was Sunday, and when the Priest 
 had finished the last Mass he repaired with several of the 
 principal Inhabitants to the House of one of them. A Table 
 being prepared for the purpose, and a Pack of Cards produced, 
 they commenced gambling with an eagerness and avidity I 
 scarcely ever before witnessed. 
 
 On the 9th I proceeded to this place, (Melo), and joined my 
 Regiment, where we still remain. It is conjectured that we 
 shall not march from here till the whole of the Troops going 
 forward shall have passed through Celerico, which will not be 
 before the 15th Inst.
 
 34 
 
 [1810] Majr. A. (with whom I have messed during the whole of 
 
 [Jan.] jjjg March) is in the House of the Bishop of Guarda, who fre- 
 quently resides here. He is a man of the most dignified 
 deportment and of a truly liberal Mind. He supplies us with 
 the most sumptuous Breakfasts and Dinners, and insists that 
 we shall not procure a single Article as long as we remain in 
 this place. The House may more properly be called his 
 Nephew's, who is a Colonel in the Portugueze Service. The 
 Dinners are cooked by the Wife of the latter, who evinces the 
 utmost anxiety lest they should not be dressed according to 
 our liking. The Bishop's chief Servant lived a great many 
 years with an English Merchant in Lisbon, by which means 
 he is of infinite use in directing the good Lady how to serve 
 up a dinner a la Mode Anglaise. 
 
 Jan. 1 6. As there was yesterday no probability of our 
 soon quitting this place, and our good Friend the Bishop still 
 insisted upon supplying our Table, I determined, notwithstand- 
 ing the kind manner in which he pressed me to continue, to secede 
 from his House, and eat my Mutton Chop in my own Quarters, 
 which resolution 1 accordingly put into execution. An Order 
 however is just arrived for us to be in readiness to march at a 
 Moment's Notice, and it is hinted we shall proceed to our original 
 destination (Celerico) the Day after to-morrow. This place is 
 about two hundred and fifty miles from Olivenza, and Celerico 
 is about twelve Miles from hence. The Weather during our 
 March was with the exception of one Day extremely fine. 
 Since our arrival here it has almost constantly rained. To-day 
 however it has cleared up, and promises to be fine. We may 
 therefore be considered as extremely fortunate. The 
 Enemy are advancing ; their Out Posts and our own 
 are now very near each other. We may daily 
 expect to hear of skirmishing, which must soon be 
 followed by a general Engagement. The late Move of the 
 
 1 Army has contributed very much to decrease the Sickness that 
 
 I so generally prevailed in it before.
 
 35 
 
 20th. On the i8th we marched from Melo to Celerico. 
 On our arrival there were surprised to find our Route still 
 further extended to Guarda, one day's march in advance of 
 Celerico, where we remain and are likely to remain, for some 
 time. Guarda is said to be the highest City in Europe. The 
 ascent to it from Celerico commences about a League from 
 hence, and is extremely steep. About half way up the Hill 
 we found ourselves amongst snow, which, we observed, 
 increased in depth as we advanced to the Summit. Here we 
 were enveloped in it. The cold is intense, not less severe than 
 in the Northern parts of England ; notwithstanding the 
 Inhabitants are not more provided against it within doors than 
 if it did not exist. There is not a fireplace in any of the 
 Houses with the exception of the Kitchen. The only means of 
 guarding against the cold are the Pans containing Charcoal, 
 and these are frequently not to be used without at the same 
 time having the windows open, on account of the pernicious 
 tendency they possess in producing Head Aches. 
 
 A day or two since a Party of our Dragoons observed 
 about thirty French Cavalry skirmishing near the Frontier ; 
 they did not sufficiently approach each other to come to blows. 
 The Main Body of the Army must remain inactive for some 
 time yet, the severity of the weather precluding the possibility 
 of undertaking any military operations. 
 
 28th. We received certain accounts yesterday that the 
 French are not making any demonstration of an intention to 
 advance, nor does it appear that they have lately received any 
 reinforcements. A large Fleet of Transports with Troops 
 passed Oporto for Lisbon on the 12th Inst, and must 
 have reached the latter place ere this. 
 
 We are at present inundated with reports. It is said that 
 there is an insurrection in the South of France, headed by 
 Madame Buonopart^ (that Lady having been divorced), and 
 aided by Talleyrand and Massena, and that in consequence 
 the French Army is retreating from Spain. This piece of 
 intelligence comes from the Duque del Parque, but very little
 
 36 
 
 [1810] credit is attached to it. Another rumour states that the 
 [Jan.] French in endeavouring to force the passes of the Sierra 
 Morena have been completely defeated by the Army under 
 General Blake. Certain it is that there is an unaccountable 
 inactivity amongst the Enemy. The utmost energy at the same 
 time prevails both with the Spaniards and Portugueze in the 
 organising of new levies, manufacturing of Arms, and fortify- 
 * ing of Cities, Passes, &c., &c. Notwithstanding the immense 
 
 shock they look forward to from the power of France being 
 likely to be concentrated against them, they anticipate more 
 confidently than ever an eventual Triumph ; and I observe 
 likewise that many English Officers, who a few weeks back 
 gave up the cause as entirely lost, now entertain an opinion 
 that they may ultimately succeed. For my own part I have 
 a much more favourable sentiment of the issue than I had at 
 the period of our quitting Olivenza. 
 [Fbb.] Febry 2d. It is said that the French are advancing 
 
 into Portugal by way of Badajos and Elvas, and that their 
 advance has actually reached Merida. Should this account 
 prove correct, we shall most probably be compelled to measure 
 back our steps in order to protect the Capital. Lord Wel- 
 lington left Head-Quarters a Day or two since to proceed in that 
 direction. The last English Newspapers concur in stating 
 that he is to go out to India with full power to settle, if possible, 
 the unhappy differences at present prevailing there. He is 
 so completely idolized by the Portuguese, that I am confident 
 bis removal from the chief Command in this Country will excite 
 more despondency among them than the loss of a general 
 engagement. We have accts. of three hundred men having 
 embarked to join our Battalion ; which will render us so 
 completely effective, that, whether affairs are soon brought to a 
 termination or not in this Country, there is no prospect of our 
 returning to England, as we shall doubtless be employed on 
 some other Service. In the present critical and unsettled 
 state of affairs it is impossible to conjecture where we may 
 next be sent to serve; the Mediterranean, India, or North
 
 37 
 
 America, it may be, will prove our destination. For my own part, 
 so that our expatriation does not exceed three or four years, I care 
 little where we go. The Mediterranean would certainly be 
 the most pleasant, and India the most profitable. With respect 
 to America I should have no other satisfaction in going there, 
 than in the hopes of witnessing the chastisement they so 
 richly deserve for their perfidious treatment to Great Britain, 
 and their unnatural connexion with France. 
 
 I this day complete my twenty eighth year. An event of 
 this kind cannot fail to produce in any mind in the least 
 tinctured with humility many mortifying reflections. In 
 ruminating over the years that are for ever gone past, the best of 
 us have abundant cause of self-abasement in the recollection — 
 to use the words of the Poet — " Of times misspent and fair 
 occasions gone for ever by." Happy are those, who haying 
 learnt at length justly to appreciate the value of time, not 
 only form sincere resolutions of not hereafter misspending it, 
 but conscientiously and fully fulfil those resolutions. For my 
 own part I look back with painful regret on the many, many 
 hours I have myself passed without improvement, and while 
 I resolve from henceforth to value it with a warmth proportion- 
 ate to its worth I fear lest each succeeding year should make 
 my retrospect still more painful. I look however with 
 resignation for the assistance promised from above, feeling as 
 I do so strongly the imperfection of Human Nature that 
 without the Divine Aid I should tremble to be a partaker of it. 
 
 1 2th. Affairs are again putting on a bad aspect. It is 
 confirmed beyond all doubt that the Enemy have forced the 
 Passes of the Sierra Morena and that Seville is in their 
 possession. Three Regiments just arrived at Lisbon from 
 England, together with the 87th, who were on Garrison Duty 
 there, sailed at three hours' Notice to assist the Spaniards at 
 Cadiz in the protection of that place, and also to prevent the 
 Fleet from falling into the hands of the Enemy. In the mean- 
 time we learn that the French are assembling in gteat force 
 in the Neighbourhood of Salamanca, obviously with the
 
 38 
 
 [1810] intention of attacking us. It is morally impossible that we 
 >■ ^^J can remain long in our present position, our right and left 
 Flank being both open to the Enemy. Lord Wellington is at 
 present at Lisbon, concerting, it is supposed, with the Regency 
 means for the defence of the Capital. The King's Speech, 
 received a few days ago, renders it plain that this Country is 
 not to be abandoned without a struggle. From the very 
 serious defeats the Spaniards have recently sustained it is 
 impossible not to look forward with more of fear than hope. 
 The iniquities of this People are certainly at their height, & 
 I feel convinced that the Judgments of God are upon them ; 
 when the Cup of His wrath shall be poured out, our finite 
 understandings leave us no means of knowing; it will be happy 
 for those Countries who have been hitherto exempt from the 
 horrors of War — among which England stands eminently 
 blessed — if they will take warnings from the afflictions of 
 others, and not provoke too far the long suffering of the 
 Almighty. I have myself no more doubt that these People are 
 at present visited for their Iniquities, than I have that the 
 Jews were formerly for the same cause. It is certain however 
 that they regard not their Calamities in this light ; on the 
 contrary in their own Eyes theirs are the only Countries where 
 God may be said to be truly worshipped. During my several 
 visits to Catholic Kingdoms I have constantly observed the 
 impression made on the Minds I have been most intimate with 
 by the Religion they profess, and with a truth equal to the 
 solemn occasion I can affirm I have never met with one whose 
 heart appeared to be touched with a coal from the Holy Altar 
 of God. As I have before observed, the Sabbath is wholly 
 disregarded by them, or, if remembered, it is only as a Day 
 when buying, selling, gaming, and other Amusements are 
 pursued with more than common Avidity : indeed so com- 
 pletely is this Holy Day prostituted that I see no means left 
 them but expunging from the Decalogue the fourth Command- 
 ment in the same manner they have long since done the second. 
 For every species of wickedness the Town [where] I am writing
 
 39 
 
 is eminently perspicuous : Common decency while performing 
 their most solemn Services is not to be observed ; the most 
 disgusting levity, even while burying the Dead, is constantly 
 practised — I mean by the Priests themselves. These Men in 
 conversation allow themselves a latitude, or rather, licentious- 
 ness, only to be credited by those who have heard them. Even 
 in a Convent of Nuns here, in a place and by a People 
 solemnly devoted to the Service of God, Conversations daily 
 take place between them and (I am ashamed to say,) certain 
 British Officers, from which the most abandoned women in 
 England would turn away with disgust. In this place Chastity 
 in women is scarcely considered a virtue, and it is notorious 
 that nine-tenths of the seductions are traced to the Clergy ; 
 yet these men continue notwithstanding to possess an unbound- 
 ed influence over the minds of the other Orders of the People ; 
 and so they will continue to do, till by the inscrutable, but 
 sure, operations of the Almighty a pure Religion is 
 introduced among them, and the present system of Idolatry is 
 for ever abolished. That the successes of the French are 
 contributing to this great end I have no doubt, and contem- 
 plating the present extraordinary state of Affairs in a moral 
 view, I look upon Buonaparte, notwithstanding his unworthi- 
 ness, as an Instrument in the Hand of Providence for the 
 completion of this great work. His antipathy to Convents 
 and Monks is notorious, and as he extends his Conquests he 
 goes on annihilating these Institutions regarding them, (as I do) 
 in the light of Hotbeds of Iniquity. I consider this as no 
 small step gained ; and as he likewise permits men to think 
 for themselves in matters of Religion, from which they have been 
 hitherto debarred, I think it may be reasonably expected that 
 an emancipation from the Shackles in which they have so 
 long been held is a circumstance likely to flow naturally from 
 the change this freedom will introduce into Men's Minds. This 
 subject has occupied me much within these few last days ; and 
 it is under this view of it that I think it even desirable that the 
 French should eventually succeed in subjugating Spain and 
 Portugal.
 
 40 
 
 [1810] ijth The Enemy have made an advance of four Leagues. 
 
 fFEB.j 'f hey are at present about two Leagues on the other side of 
 Ciudad Rodrigo, with the intention, it is supposed, of making 
 an attack on that place. The Inhabitants of Guarda are in the 
 utmost state of Consternation. Lord Wellington's absence 
 they consider as the greatest possible Misfortune that could 
 happen at this juncture. His Name is with them quite a Host 
 of itself. They know by sad experience what it is to be visited 
 by the French. They were here for a few days, and during 
 that time they laid the People under very heavy contributions : 
 besides which their general Conduct was brutal and ferocious 
 in the extreme. 
 
 2 1st. The Enemy advanced, as was supposed would be 
 the case, upon Ciudad Rodrigo, and after throwing a few Shots 
 & Shells into the place retired to their former Positions. 
 This movement, it is suspected, was merely intended to keep 
 us on the alert here, and prevent our making any Motions to 
 impede whatever other objects they may have in view in other 
 places. It appears certain that Badajos is invested, & that 
 the French have possessed themselves of Olivenza. General 
 Hill with his Division has marched from Abrantes, but whether 
 to relieve Badajos or to cover the retreat of the Sick from 
 Elvas is not known. From the Enemy pushing forward in so 
 many different directions it is generally and naturally supposed 
 they have received large Reinforcements. We hear they were 
 admitted into Seville, not only without resistance, but with 
 every apparent mark of Satisfaction. On mentioning this to 
 a Portugueze, he exclaims "What can you expect from Span- 
 iards ?" In the mean time we are expecting here that these 
 circumstances must soon lead to an evacuation of the 
 Peninsula, tho' from the determined Character of Lord 
 Wellington it is expected he will dispute every inch of the 
 Ground. The Troops in general continue very healthy. What 
 few Sick there are are sent weekly to Coimbra, in order that 
 the Army may be left to act free and unincumbered. As a
 
 41 
 
 precautionary measure the whole of the heavy Baggage has 
 been embarked;at Lisbon. 
 
 The Weather continues excessively cold, and we are 
 informed that the Snow and Frost prevail here till the middle 
 of June. The Inhabitants say that the only tolerably fine time 
 of the Year here is in the Months of August and September. 
 Perhaps as a residence it is one of the most." unpleasant 
 Situations in Europe ; its extreme height renders it very 
 inconvenient for taking exercise on Horseback, and its extreme 
 dirtiness makes it as unpleasant to take exercise on Foot. 
 
 [March] March 3. Nothing particular has occurred within these 
 
 few Days. The Enemy remains at Salamanca, and there is 
 reason to believe they have not been reinforced. It is 
 rumoured with some degree of confidence that they lost three 
 thousand Men in an Attack upon Cadiz, but there are so many 
 reports constantly going about that it is impossible to know 
 what to believe. A few Evenings since there was some skir- 
 mishing between a small party of our Riflemen & about two 
 hundred French. The latter left four dead ; we had not a Man 
 
 hurt. 
 
 nth. The Enemy continue occasionally to show them- 
 selves ; but it does not appear that their main Body, is in 
 advance of Salamanca. It is stated that Junot has arrived 
 there with thirty thousand men and that preparations are 
 making for the reception of Buonaparte. The News of one 
 Day is however generally falsified the next. We expect to 
 know something' decisive by the next Mail respecting our 
 remaining in this Country. As long as a British Army is in 
 Portugal, the People have no apprehension of danger; but they 
 say, if left to themselves, their doom at once is fixed. 
 
 This being the Season of Lent, there is abundance of 
 Fasting and Praying, but as little Devotion as at other Times. 
 The three Days prior to Ash Wednesday there was some very 
 beautiful Music and singing in the Cathedral ; the Organ is a 
 remarkably good one, and one of the Priests possesses the
 
 4a 
 
 [1810] finest Bass Voice I ever heard. Processions and Ceremonies 
 [March] are numerous, and the consumption of wax Candles is immense. 
 The number of Priests attached to the Cathedral alone is very 
 great, a Bishop, a Dean, three others possessing high Rank, 
 but difficult of pronunciation, thirty Canons, and a vast num- 
 ber of inferior Clergy. I was witness to the Ceremony of 
 Matrimony a few days since. It has a strong resemblance to 
 that of the Reformed Church, but the greatest levity prevailed 
 during the whole Service. The Bride did not appear to be 
 more than twelve or thirteen, and made her Responses with 
 the utmost pertness. The Bridegroom had the appearance of 
 a Person going to be involved in a different species of Noose 
 from that of Matrimony. 
 
 17th. There is little doubt that the Enemy have received 
 large reinforcements under Jun6t. Slight Skirmishes con- 
 tinue occasionally to take place. The idea that we must 
 almost immediately abandon our present Position is general, 
 and we are in daily expectation of an order to that effect. It 
 is the Opinion of every one that, immediately we begin our 
 Retreat, the French will advance in this direction, and annoy 
 us by every possible means. Indeed our distance from the place 
 of Embarkation is so great, that it is to be feared before reach- 
 ing it our Casualties will be very numerous. 
 
 The three hundred Men from England joined us 
 a few days since, and a very fine detachment they 
 certainly are. The 40th may with truth be 
 
 considered at present the very finest Regiment in the Army. 
 Our strength including Sergeants & Drummers is near 
 thirteen hundred men. I feel the responsibility attached to 
 the care of so large a body. 
 
 The weather is very bad ; the Rains are incessant, and 
 come down in Torrents. Notwithstanding, the Army generally 
 is in as good, if not better. Health than a Force of the same 
 magnitude would be in England. This being St. Patrick's 
 Day I much fear lest the intemperance that will certainly
 
 43 
 
 prevail should be the cause of Disease to many. The 
 Regimental Bands played through the Streets, as is usual on 
 this occasion, commencing at Midnight. On hearing it the 
 Inhabitants were elated with hope, conceiving it could be from 
 no other reason than the arrival of some great News. 
 
 2ist. The night before last at midnight fifteen hundred 
 French, led on by a General Officer of four and twenty and a 
 great favourite of Buonaparte, attacked four Companies of 
 the Rifle Corps under the command of Colonel Beckwith. 
 Notwithstanding the superiority of their numbers the French 
 were completely defeated with great loss. The Rifle Corps 
 had one Officer and three Men killed and six Men wounded. 
 The Affair was a very brilliant one, and the Rifle Corps main- 
 tained by their gallant conduct that character for Valour 
 which has so eminently and so long distinguished them. 
 
 The weather appears to have set in fine. Hostilities may 
 therefore be expected almost immediately to commence on a 
 larger scale. 
 
 27th. The Enemy have again retired to Salamanca, and 
 there are Accounts, which rest on very good Authority, that rein- 
 forcements which had actually entered Spain have been 
 suddenly ordered to return to France ; Marshal Ney has 
 likewise been sent for express to Paris. These circumstances 
 are said to have originated in consequence of a dispute 
 between France and Russia, which is likely to terminate in a 
 Rupture between the two Powers. The next Packet from 
 England will inform us as to the truth or falsehood of this 
 Rumour, which has certainly obtained much credit. We are 
 now an unusual time without a Mail — so much so that Fears 
 are entertained for the Safety of the Packet. We have had 
 no London Papers since the 14th of last month. 
 
 Having described the ceremonies of Marriage and Burial 
 in these Countries I am now enabled to add that of Baptism, 
 having witnessed it a few days since in the Cathedral in this
 
 44 
 
 [1810] place. The Sponsors are four in number, two of each sex. 
 [March] After a few Initiatory Prayers, some salt previously 
 consecrated is stuffed into the Child's Mouth ; after which the 
 Priest inserts Saliva from his own Mouth into the Ears and 
 Nostrils of the Baptised ; a variety of other ceremonies being 
 gone through, the unfortunate Infant is stripped perfectly 
 naked and immersed in the coldest water ; a few more 
 Prayers conclude the ceremony. This I saw practised on 
 a Child of three days old. The same laughing & other 
 marks of irreverence prevailed during this Ceremony as at the 
 others I have before noticed. 
 
 31st. The long expected Packet has at length arrived 
 and with it Papers to the 15th Inst. They do not confirm 
 the intelligence so confidently reported of Russia having 
 declared War against France, nor indeed do they mention 
 anything that can lead to the probability of such an event. 
 His Majesty's message for taking thirty thousand Portugueze 
 into British Pay having been approved by both Houses of 
 Parliament renders it no longer doubtful that the utmost is to 
 be done for the preservation of this Country. This decision 
 is a source of considerable disappointment to many 
 individuals in this Army. For my own part, tho' I see no 
 prospect of ultimately retaining our ground here, yet I do not 
 think we can abandon these People without a struggle 
 without sacrificing the National Character. We may 
 probably sustain much loss, but even that I consider as not 
 to be estimated when the Honour of England is at stake. 
 
 The weather is excessively gloomy, and remarkably cold 
 when the Latitude of this place is considered. The Climate 
 of England I consider much less variable than that of this 
 part of Portugal. 
 [April] April 6th. This afternoon three soldiers of the 27th 
 
 Regiment were executed in the presence of the whole 
 Garrison. They were convicted of Housebreaking, a Crime 
 Lord Wellington has declared he will never pardon. They
 
 45 
 
 were all very young, and met their Fate with great firmness. 
 The scene was truly melancholy, and was, I think, calculated 
 to generate any other sentiment than that of Pride in the 
 Hearts of the Spectators. For my own part I felt that I 
 could not exclaim with the Pharisee—" I thank Thee, O God, 
 that I am not as these Men, &c." The predominating 
 sentiment in my Breast was Humility together with a pious 
 Gratitude to that Being who had blessed me with Parents 
 whose united Precept and Example had taught me in early life 
 to distinguish right from wrong. The Execution was 
 performed in as heavy a Snow Storm as I ever experienced. 
 
 Several fresh Regiments have, it seems, arrived at Lisbon 
 from England, which must convince the most sceptical that 
 every effort is to be made to preserve this Country. We hear 
 that an Ambassador has arrived in London from Paris, but 
 no one appears to think that Peace can possibly be the 
 Consequence. For my own part I see not how such an Event 
 can anyhow be treated for, as long as we retain a footing in 
 the Peninsula. Were the French absolute Masters of 
 Spain and Portugal the case would be widely different. 
 
 April gth. I was yesterday attracted into the Cathedral 
 by seeing an unusual Number of Persons entering it, and on 
 enquiry found it was Passion Sunday, tho' with us Palm 
 Sunday. The sermon treated on the Sufferings and Death of 
 our Saviour, and was delivered in a tone of voice bordering on 
 crying ; this I was afterwards informed the Preacher is 
 obliged to do. During a particular part of the Discourse, and, 
 while he is describing in the most forcible language the 
 extent of those Sufferings, a Curtain is suddenly drawn back 
 by an invisible Hand, and an Image of our Lord upon the 
 Cross is exposed. The whole Female part of the Congregation 
 immediately commence an audible lamentation, which from its 
 generality 1 could not conceive to be real. The Sermon is 
 soon after concluded, when the whole Congregation strike 
 their Faces repeatedly with their Hands and dismiss.
 
 46 
 
 [1810] 13th. We are entirely without News of the Enemy in 
 
 [April] ^j^jg Quarter. The weather appears likely to be more 
 favourable than it has lately been, from which many infer we 
 shall soon be engaged. Regiments continue to arrive from 
 England at Lisbon, and indeed every circumstance tends to 
 prove that there will yet be a most obstinate Struggle before 
 the fate of this Country is finally fixed. 
 
 26th. Last week, being Passion Week, was one 
 continual round of Ceremonies and Processions ; were I to 
 attempt to describe them all this Book would be insufficient 
 for the purpose. The Thursday is here a more solemn Day 
 than the Friday, and every person who lays the smallest 
 claim to the denomination of a good Catholic makes a point 
 of confessing on that Day and afterwards communicating. 1 
 had an opportunity of being present at the different functions 
 performed in the Chapel of the Nuns. The Organ is a very 
 sweet one, and some of the Music particularly fine, but the 
 levity I have so frequently observed among the Canons in the 
 Cathedral may be styled Devotion in comparison with that 
 which prevails among these fair Recluses. I never before 
 had so convincing a proof of the inefficiency of this Religion 
 to touch and amend the Heart. 
 
 [May] May loth. Since the last date the Enemy have made 
 
 various movements indicating a disposition to attack us. 
 Lord Wellington in consequence removed his Head Quarters to 
 Celerico to be nearer the scene of action, and the whole 
 British Force together with several Portugueze Regiments have 
 been concentrated in this Neighbourhood. It is said 
 however that the French have again retreated upon 
 Salamanca, and that they may still be some time longer quiet. 
 Notwithstanding the advanced Season of the Year the 
 weather is cold and almost constantly wet, nor do the 
 Inhabitants give us hopes of having better, at least for 
 a Month to come. It is true we have not had any Snow very 
 lately, but they bid us prepare to expect it.
 
 47 
 
 By papers from England to the 20th Ulto. we have an 
 account of the late disturbances in the Metropolis. I much 
 fear that the flame is only partially smothered, to break out 
 at some future Day with augmented violence. It is 
 melancholy to reflect how the lower Orders of People are led 
 away. Could they but compare their lot with those of other 
 Countries, they would be sensible of the numerous Blessings 
 and Privileges they enjoy. This clamour for reform is made 
 by designing men a cloak for the most pernicious and 
 iniquitous Intentions. 
 
 30th. We still remain here unmolested, though the 
 Enemy have according to all Accts. been reinforced to an 
 immense Number. This inaction on their part is attributed 
 to the quantity of Water in the Rivers between them and us, 
 which have been and still are greatly swollen by the constant 
 and violent Rains that have lately prevailed. 
 
 On the verge of June we have not anything in this place 
 that indicates the approach of Summer. A Fire is still 
 as desirable as it is in England in the Month of May. By 
 descending the Mountain however on which this City stands 
 we can at once change our Temperature many degrees. 
 Nothing can be more beautiful than is the Valley at the Foot 
 of the Hill about four Miles from hence. So sensible are the 
 natives of the superiority of this charming Spot that everyone 
 of them who can scrape together a little money builds 
 a Quintal or Cottage there ; it is now extremely populous. A 
 variety of sketches of this valley have been taken by different 
 Draughtsmen. Indeed, on descending the Hill, it forms 
 a Landscape equal, if not superior, in Beauty to anything I 
 ever before witnessed. 
 
 I had a few Days since an Opportunity of going through 
 the Convent in this place. I went in with a Staff Officer, 
 who got admission under the pretext that it was necessary 
 for him to take the altitudes of the surrounding Mountains 
 from a high Tower belonging to the Convent, where the
 
 48 
 
 [1810] Sisterhood go to take the Air. The Abbess was completely 
 [May] taken in, and two Confessors being at hand to accompany us we 
 were accordingly admitted. On the Door being opened the 
 Abbess attended by Twenty Nuns presented themselves to 
 pay their respects. As soon as we thought we had been 
 a reasonable time in measuring distances we proposed to 
 descend, when one of the Nuns whispered us to ask 
 permission to see the whole of the Convent, which the 
 Abbess at once granted. So pleased were the Sisterhood 
 with this Visit, (the first they had ever known), that there was 
 not a Nook, Cranny, or Corner, they did not in a whisper 
 suggest to us to ask the Abbess to be permitted to see. In 
 the Chapel we were favoured with some Solos and Duets 
 executed in very superior stile and accompanied by the 
 Organ. Being a Medical Man I was allowed to visit their 
 Infirmary, where I saw a Nun a hundred and five years old 
 in the possession of all her Faculties except her Sight. Not 
 knowing I was near her, she was expressing to the Nuns who 
 accompanied me her Surprise and Indignation that anything 
 like a Man should be permitted to enter the Convent. We at 
 length took our leave. The Abbess, whose Heart appears to 
 be better than her Head, has been since made to believe 
 it was a trick, and I fancy she will not again open the Doors 
 on such a pretext. 
 
 [June] June 2d. Everything indicates an immediate movement. 
 
 An Order has been issued for each Regiment to be prepared 
 to march at half an hour's Notice ; every Man not entirely fit 
 for Service has been sent away, and one Day's Provisions are 
 kept constantly cooked beforehand. Whether this Movement 
 will be forward or backward, to the right or left, we are in 
 profound ignorance. The Weather has become fine, and it 
 does not appear probable that an Engagement between the 
 two Armies can be many Days delayed. 
 
 23d. We still remain at Guarda, and our quitting it 
 appears to depend entirely upon the Movements of the
 
 49 
 
 Enemy. They are now actively besieging Ciudad Rodrigo, 
 and, their Heavy Artillery having arrived, there is little 
 probability of its holding out many Days. They are now in 
 such force that it is generally conceived they will immediately 
 after advance into this Country, & almost everyone appears 
 to think that we cannot make any effectual resistance to their 
 progress. Our advanced Picquets are constantly in sight of 
 those of the Enemy, and the Men frequently approach so 
 near to each other as to hold Conversations. They say it is 
 nothing less than madness our remaining here, and that if we 
 do not speedily fly to our Ships we shall inevitably all 
 be eat up. 
 
 25th. Head Quarters remove this day to Almeida, but 
 there are no Orders as yet for the Troops to accompany 
 them. The Army is at present so generally healthy, that it 
 is supposed Lord Wellington will defer hutting them as long 
 as possible. — Almeida is distant from the French Head 
 Quarters only six Leagues. 
 
 Yesterday commenced here a large Fair, notwithstanding 
 its being Sunday, thus furnishing another instance of the 
 total disregard paid to the Divine Ordinances by a People 
 assuming to themselves an extraordinary degree of Religion, 
 and excluding from the Ark of God's Mercy all those whose 
 Religion tends to differ from theirs. 
 
 [JoLv] July loth. Ciudad Rodrigo still holds out, and furnishes 
 
 another instance of the extraordinary valour with which the 
 Spaniards defend their Cities. The Enemy have three times 
 attempted to storm the place with chosen Troops, and each 
 time have been repulsed with great slaughter. The defence 
 of the Garrison has excited universal admiration. The 
 weather is extremely fine, and at this time of the year Guarda 
 may be considered a very pleasant Quarter, as from its height 
 there is an almost constant breeze : in the Valleys the heat 
 is excessive, and the Troops are less healthy than those here.
 
 50 
 
 [1810] The Marquis Romana passed thro' here a few Days 
 
 [JOLY] since on his return to Badajos. He had been to Head 
 Quarters to have an interview with Lord Wellington. He 
 speaks, I am told, with great confidence of the ultimate 
 triumph of Spain over her oppressors. He is most devoted to 
 his Country, and I really believe determined not to survive 
 the extinction of her liberty. His appearance proves that 
 a very great soul does sometimes inhabit a very mean body. 
 
 1 2th. The enemy entered Ciudad Rodrigo by 
 Capitulation the Evening before last. Conjecture is afloat as 
 to what will be their next movement. Some think they will 
 push on for Almeida ; others are of opinion they will direct 
 their force against Badajos. A short time will determine. 
 
 In a skirmish Yesterday Colonel Talbot of the 
 14th Dragoons was killed. He is much lamented. 
 
 The Night before last a most horrid Murder was 
 committed a short distance from this place. There is too 
 much reason to suppose that the perpetrators were British. 
 I was directed by the General Yesterday Morning to go down 
 there, when the most dreadful Sight I ever witnessed 
 presented itself. Three Bodies, viz., a Man, Woman, and 
 their Daughter, a Child about eight years of Age, lay on the 
 Floor, weltering in Blood ; the former and the latter quite 
 dead, and the Mother with little sign of Life. A Hatchet lay 
 beside them with which the deed had evidently been 
 completed. The Heads of the deceased were literally beat to 
 a Jelly. The Woman still lives, and there are hopes of her 
 recovery. She is at present incapable of making a 
 deposition, but her return to reason is anxiously looked for, 
 in the hope that it may lead to the discovery of the 
 Murderers. The wretches were doubtless instigated to the 
 Murder from the fear of discovery, as Lord Wellington 
 invariably punishes Housebreaking with death.
 
 51 
 2 1 St. The enemy continue in force about Ciudad 
 Rodrigo, and there is every reason to suppose they will 
 immediately commence the Siege of Almeida. Genl. Loison, 
 equally notorious for his infamy & his impudence, sent in 
 a few days since a message to Lord Wellington offering him 
 a bet of five hundred Guineas that he would not dare to 
 attempt to raise the Siege of Almeida whenever it should be 
 attacked. Lord W's intentions as far as regards that 
 Fortress are profoundly secret. It is very strong and welt 
 provisioned ; consequently a protracted defence is expected 
 from it. 
 
 25th. Affairs are evidently drawing to a Crisis. The 
 Light Brigade had yesterday a very severe action in 
 attempting to defend a Bridge over the Coa. By the great 
 superiority of the Enemy they were repulsed on the third 
 attack with the loss of twenty-two Officers killed & wounded; 
 our loss in Men has not yet transpired. Several Regiments 
 that formed the advance are expected in here this Afternoon. 
 As the Garrison here has no order to march, many are of 
 opinion that a stand is to be made in this place. 
 
 26th. It appears that the Enemy did not succeed in 
 forcing the Bridge, but they were themselves compelled 
 to retire. Genl. Crawford remained in possession for several 
 hours, but thought it prudent to retire in the Evening. Our 
 loss amounted to thirty Officers and six hundred & fifty men. 
 The loss to the French is not known, but it must have been 
 very great. Their force was more than two to one. 
 
 There has been a great deal of firing the whole of this 
 Day from the Batteries at Almeida, from which it is 
 conjectured that the Enemy are raising Works in order 
 to commence the Siege of that Fortress. 
 
 The People here are in the greatest possible con- 
 sternation ; Cars and Mules laden with valuables are hourly
 
 52 
 
 [1810] leaving the Town, and I apprehend the greater number of 
 [Jt'Lvj Inhabitants will quit the place on the near approach of 
 the French. 
 
 30th. We now form the advance of the Army, and 
 there is no doubt shall commence our retreat, as soon as the 
 Enemy show themselves in force, it being generally believed 
 that Lord Wellington has at present no intention of brmging 
 the French to an Engagement. This place is nearly 
 deserted, scarcely a family remaining. The Nuns have 
 quitted the Convent, having obtained a Dispensation for that 
 purpose. With the exception of two or three they left it 
 almost broken hearted. I was particularly affected at seeing 
 one of them (the oldest of the community and who I find is 
 one hundred and seventeen years of age) quit the place she 
 had not been out of before for seventy-six years. She has 
 kept her Bed a great while, but with the exception of her 
 Sight she retains all her faculties. She was laid on a Car, 
 and bore her Sufferings without a Murmur, but fervently 
 praying that she might be released from them while on the 
 Road to the place she was going to. Having been in the 
 building every Day the last six weeks attending on a sick 
 Nun, I had an opportunity of knowing several of them, and 
 most worthy People many of them were, particularly the 
 Lady Abbess. She quitted the Convent last night, and I 
 attended her some distance out of the Town. She evidently 
 laboured under the severest mental Anguish : my Heart bled 
 for her. On parting with her she offered up a most fervent 
 Prayer for my happiness here and hereafter, and assured me 
 that it would afford her the most sincere gratification, could I 
 in the event of getting ■ safe out of the Country find means 
 to make her acquainted with it. 
 
 We perceive distinctly the Firing at Almeida, which is 
 to-day carried on on both sides with great spirit. Our 
 Baggage is kept constantly packed, but we do not expect 
 to march till the Enemy shall have possessed themselves 
 of that Garrison.
 
 53 
 
 [1810] Augst. 4th. The Enemy continue before Almeida, but, 
 
 [August] ^g g^]| communication is cut off between that place and this, 
 we are ignorant of the progress they make in the Siege. 
 They pushed their Patrols last night within a league and 
 a half of this Garrison. Lord Wellington is at Celerico, but 
 the main body of the Army is considerably in the rear. It is 
 now generally conceived that Lord W. will, if possible, bring 
 the Enemy to action between Ponte de Murcella & 
 Coimbra, and from the very great strength of the Position he 
 augurs a complete triumph. 
 
 6th. This Morning pursuant to the sentence of a 
 general Court Martial two soldiers of the 97th Regiment 
 were shot in presence of the whole Garrison paraded for that 
 purpose. The one was a German, the other an Irishman. 
 They met their fate with remarkable firmness. 
 
 A large party of Portugueze Peasantry yesterday 
 attacked a French foraging Party, & succeeded in killing 
 an officer and twenty-four men. They came in here this 
 Morning, bringing with them the Horses & Arms of the 
 Enemy. From the enormities committed by the French, it is 
 not to be wondered at that the Portugueze pursue so 
 sanguinary a mode of warfare ; but, if persisted in, the war 
 must inevitably become a war of extermination. 
 
 gth. The Enemy have not yet opened their Batteries on 
 Almeida. It is difficult to account for this delay. The 
 Deserters and Prisoners generally agree that they will not 
 advance into this Country till the Conquest of that Fortress 
 shall have been effected. In the meantime Lord W. is 
 making every preparation to give them a warm reception. 
 We amuse ourselves in this place chiefly at Cricket, 
 and from the ground where we play can distinctly see the 
 Fire from the Garrison of Almeida. From the Spirit with 
 which the Officers in general enter into this game one would 
 hardly suppose there was an Enemy within an hundred 
 Leagues of us.
 
 54 
 
 [1810] A Spaniard well-known by the Name of Don Julian 
 
 [Adgust] ^ygg j^g^g yesterday on his way to Celerico to have an 
 interview with Lord Wellington. He is a most enterprising 
 Character, and in the last three Months has succeeded in 
 destroying a great Number of the Enemy. He gives no 
 Quarter to any who make resistance. His followers 
 sometimes amount to a thousand, at others he cannot muster 
 fifty. They make a great deal by plunder, and absent 
 themselves for the purpose of spending their Money ; which 
 having done they again join his Standard. 
 
 igth. The Enemy have only this Day opened their 
 Batteries. The Firing on both Sides has been terrible. 
 Various are the Opinions as to the time the Garrison will 
 be able to hold out, a Week, ten Days, a Month, and some 
 think even to the first of October. Every Day will be 
 of consequence as the Harvest is nearly all in, and there jwill 
 be time afforded to transport it to the Rear, which must 
 greatly distress the Enemy when they advance. 
 
 21 St. Head Quarters remove this Day to Alverche, 
 and the Regts. in the rear are marching forward. 
 Whether it is intended to relieve Almeida or not must soon 
 be determined. This Movement has excited much confidence 
 among the People here. 
 
 31st. Since" the^.last date affairs have very materially 
 altered. It appears the Enemy did not open upon Almeida 
 till the 26th, and not on the 19th as was supposed. That 
 same Evening a Shell fell into a large Building containing the 
 Powder and Ammunition in an immense quantity, which 
 exploded and destroyed the whole Town. The loss of lives 
 on this melancholy occasion amounted it is said to upwards 
 of a thousand. The Garrison capitulated on the 28th in 
 consequence of this unlucky and unforeseen event. Measures 
 of the utmost precaution have been adopted by Lord 
 Wellington. The whole Army was Yesterday Morning in
 
 55 
 
 Motion ; the Brigade of General Campbell in the Valley of 
 Mondego moved a day's inarch towards Coimbra, and Genl. 
 Cole's Brigade, in which is the 40th, moved to the Valley. A 
 Battalion of Light Infantry alone remains in Guarda. The 
 Town itself is almost entirely forsaken by the Inhabitants. 
 None but the poorest Class of Inhabitants remain. We are 
 quartered in a Village called Faya situated on the Mondego. 
 Our sojourn here of course depends on the Movements of the 
 Enemy. The Valley is certainly one of the most beautiful 
 situations in Portugal. The Vines are in immense 
 abundance ; but the Grapes will not be ripe this Fortnight, 
 and ere that in all probability we shall have retrograded 
 many Leagues. 
 
 It does not appear that any blame attaches to Col. Cox, 
 the Governor of Almeida. The powder was secured in a 
 Bomb Proof, and it is supposed a train must have been 
 unfortunately laid from some damaged Bag, on which a 
 Shell fell and caused the fatal explosion. Col. C. did not 
 surrender till he had fired away the last round of Ammunition. 
 He was much beloved by the Garrison. He is of course 
 (with the few other English Officers that were at Almeida) 
 a prisoner of war. 
 
 [Sept.] Sepr. 5th. On the 2d. instant we received orders to quit 
 
 Faya, and proceeded to a village called Villa de Porco, half 
 a League distant only, but more in the line of March in case 
 of a sudden Order. We had just begun to make ourselves 
 comfortable in this latter place, when we were directed to 
 proceed as quick as possible to Lenhares, intelligence having 
 been received that the Enemy had forced our Dragoons at 
 Alverca, and that they were only two Leagues and a half 
 from us on our Flank. It was nearly dark when we 
 marched. Our road lay across the Mountains through 
 a Road nearly impassable. The night being dark rendered 
 the March a most fatiguing one. It was nearly four in the 
 Morning when we reached Lenhares, pretty well tired. On
 
 56 
 
 [1810] our arrival there we found an order to proceed again at five 
 [Sept ] £qj ^ village called Santa Marinha. The Day being very hot, 
 the Men were generally quite knocked up by the time they 
 reached their Quarters. Santa Marinha is a large but 
 extremely irregular Village situated in a beautiful Country, 
 half a League out of the Road from Celerico to Coimbra. 
 We fully expected to have marched again Yesterday 
 Morning, but the French do not appear to be advancing. 
 Our Dragoons patrolled yesterday into Guarda, but could see 
 nothing of them. General Cotton with the Cavalry is at 
 Celerico, five leagues in our rear. Lord Wellington is at 
 a place called Gouvea about a League from hence. Between 
 our Division and the Dragoons is the Light Division under 
 Genl. Crawford ; the remaining part of the Army is in 
 our front. 
 
 yth. I rode this morning to Head Quarters, but was not 
 able to collect a particle of News. The general opinion there 
 is that the Contest in this Country is likely to be a very 
 protracted one. The Enemy show no disposition whatever to 
 advance. Our Picquets remain in Guarda ; at Gouvea is 
 a very large Convent, formally a celebrated retreat of the 
 Jesuits but latterly inhabited by Nuns ; they however with 
 the other Societies of that kind have quitted their retirement 
 and fled to their Friends. 
 
 nth. Intelligence has reached Head Quarters that the 
 French entered Guarda on the evening of the gth, and that 
 Massena was to have his Head Quarters at Pinhel as 
 yesterday. From the exhausted state of that part of the 
 Country it is generally conceived they cannot remain there, 
 but must either advance upon us or otherwise make a 
 retrogade movement. With all our Money and the Coniman 
 of the Country the Commissariat have great difficulty in 
 supplying the Army. Unfortunately the Indian Corn is not 
 yet ripe, or we should not leave the Enemy a single Article 
 of subsistence.
 
 57 
 
 I7th. At nine in the Evening of the 15th we received 
 Orders to march the following Morning at Day Break. This 
 order was supposed to be in consequence of the Enemy 
 having entered the Valley of Mondego. Our Route was to 
 a small village called Vigea : at that place we had scarcely 
 begun to make ourselves comfortable, when another order 
 arrived to proceed without delay to Gallicis, two Leagues 
 further on the road towards Ponte de Murcella. It was 
 dark before we reached it. We contmued our March this 
 Mornmg, and after a great deal of Order, Counter Order and 
 Disorder reached this place (Villa Cova) about Noon. It is 
 the same distance from Ponte de Murcella as the place 
 we remained at last Night, viz., five Leagues. Whatever are 
 the present Movements of the Enemy, the Army is kept 
 in entire ignorance of them ; but from the short time we are 
 now allowed to halt we conclude they are advancing upon us. 
 
 19th. At Daylight Yesterday Morng. we quitted Villa 
 Cova, and after a long march through a Country more 
 abounding in beautiful Scenery than Corn or Wme halted for 
 the Night at a small Village called Paradella. This Morning 
 we resumed our Route, and passed the Puente de Murcella, 
 where our grand stand was to have been made. Our halt for 
 the Night is at a Village called San Miguel, about a mile out 
 of the high Road to Coimbra, and four Leagues from that 
 City. The Enemy, it is supposed, aware of the immense 
 strength of the position about Puente de Murcella have 
 declined taking this route, and are gone by Vizeu. If they 
 hope to reach Coimbra before us they will be mistaken, as 
 two Divisions of the British Army enter it this Evening. 
 The Country round Coimbra is extremely strong and capable 
 of defence. Many are therefore of opinion that Lord 
 Wellington will make a stand there. Others think we shall 
 not oppose the enemy till we reach Leyria, which is a still 
 stronger Position. There is every reason to believe that the 
 French Army is by no means so strong as has been supposed.
 
 58 
 
 [1810] Indeed it is now confidently asserted that they cannot bring 
 [Sept.] sixty thousand musquets into the Field, and, as they advance 
 into the interior, their force will rapidly decrease from Sickness 
 and other Casualties. On the contrary we are retreating upon 
 reinforcements. Besides a considerable force landed a few 
 days since in Lisbon, accounts have this day reached Head 
 Quarters of the arrival of three thousand men in Mondego 
 Bay, which from their proximity can immediately join the 
 Army. Certain it is that we never anticipated with so much 
 confidence as at present the entire defeat of the Enemy, should 
 they dare to attack us. 
 
 22d. On the 20th at daylight we quitted San Miguel, 
 and in the course of the forenoon crossed the Mondego at 
 a Ford called Barca de Conselto. The crossing of the River 
 excited a good deal of astonishment throughout the Army, as 
 it was generally supposed that our Position would be 
 immediately in the vicinity of Coimbra. Our halt that night 
 was at Penna Cova, where we found very good accommo- 
 dation, and from the circumstance of our advancing towards 
 the Enemy the Inhabitants were more civil than we had 
 experienced from them while we were retrograding. Yester- 
 day Morning we again commenced our route and marched 
 several Leagues thro' cross Roads, till we reached the high 
 Road leading from Coimbra to Vizeu. We halted at a most 
 miserable Village called Sula, where we could with difficulty 
 procure covering even for the Officers, the Men being obliged 
 to go into Huts. Here we still remain, and are likely to do 
 so till the Enemy come on us, our positions being all round 
 this Neighbourhood. Nothing in appearance can be stronger 
 than the Country about here. The Roads are extremely 
 narrow, passing through immense Chains of Mountains, 
 which will entirely prevent the Cavalry of the Enemy from 
 getting into Action. Our advanced Parties are continually 
 skirmishing. The Portugueze under Brigr. Genl. Pack were 
 yesterday engaged, and very much distinguished themselves.
 
 59 
 
 They took fifty Prisoners. The French as they advance use 
 the Inhabitants most cruelly, from which we infer that they 
 despair themselves of gaining the Country, or otherwise they 
 would be more likely to conciliate. Lord Wellington's Head 
 Quarters are near this place, at a celebrated Convent called 
 Busaco. It is the finest building of the kind in Portugal, and 
 well known formerly as an Exile for Persons of Rank from 
 the Court. Lord W. is constantly on Horseback recon- 
 noitring, and if we may judge from his Countenance & Spirits 
 he anticipates a complete triumph over the Enemy. This 
 place is about four Leagues from Coimbra, and the Advanced 
 Posts of the French are within two Leagues of us. 
 
 24th. We still remain at Sula, but are in constant 
 expectation of an order to change our ground a little more to 
 the left. There was smart skirmishing yesterday a few miles 
 in our front. The firing was very loud and distinct. Last 
 night the whole of the Cavalry retired to our rear. The 
 Light Division continue in advance. If hardly pressed they 
 will fall back upon us, and the action is then likely to become 
 general. All has been quiet hitherto this Day, and it is 
 now past Noon. 
 
 [Oct.] October 7th. I take up my Narrative from the last 
 
 Date, which has been a most eventful period, but,having lost 
 my Memorandums, my sketch will, I fear, be very imperfect. 
 On the 25th Ulto. the attack of the Enemy on our Light 
 Troops was of that Nature, that the Comr. of the Forces, 
 perceiving they meditated a general attack, directed them 
 to retire, which they did in the most perfect order. In the 
 meantime the whole Army took up its position on a ridge of 
 Mountains a little way in the rear of the Villages they had 
 occupied. This position may justly be considered one of the 
 strongest in the World. The enemy advanced to the ground 
 we had quitted. Hope brightened the countenance of Lord 
 Wellington, as he observed their approach. Skirmishing
 
 6o 
 
 '■ ^ continued durina; the Afternoon, but nothing material 
 [Oct.] . 
 
 occurred. On the morning of the 26th there was a thick Fog, 
 
 which at length cleared up, and displayed to each other the Rival 
 
 Armies drawn up on opposite Hills. A Valley between of 
 
 considerable breadth separated them : their Numbers appeared 
 
 most formidable, but the eagerness evinced by our Troops to 
 
 receive their attack may have been equalled but can never 
 
 have been surpassed. The Morning passed with only now 
 
 and then a random Shot. They were evidently unprepared. 
 
 In the afternoon the skirmishing between the Light Troops 
 
 became brisk ; it ceased at Dusk without much loss on either 
 
 side. General Officers were observed busily reconnoitring 
 
 our Position, and the expectation of an Attack the following 
 
 Morning was universal. — Our ideas were well founded ; at 
 
 dawn of Day the Enemy made a most furious Assault upon 
 
 our Right & Centre. All remained quiet on the left, in which 
 
 was our Division. We were consequently Spectators, and a 
 
 most gratifying view we had of the whole Affair. Lord W. 
 
 had directed the Troops to suffer the Enemy to come within a 
 
 short distance of the top of the Hill, when they were to give 
 
 them a deliberate Volley and charge. This we distinctly 
 
 observed. They were almost instantly thrown into the 
 
 greatest confusion, and fled precipitately. This Action 
 
 lasted but a short time, and skirmishing concluded the Day. 
 
 It was a subject of universal regret that they did not make 
 
 a general attack upon us. From the nature of our position, 
 
 and the valour of our Troops, there is little doubt but their 
 
 Army would have been nearly annihilated. Our loss this day 
 
 was, including Portugueze, seven hundred in killed and 
 
 wounded. That of the enemy, as we have since been able 
 
 pretty correctly to ascertain, was six General Officers, a great 
 
 number of other Officers, and four thousand Men. Gratifying 
 
 as was the result of this Battle it was more particularly so 
 
 from the great gallantry evinced by our Allies the 
 
 Portugueze. It was true much had been expected from them
 
 6i 
 
 by many, but there was a possibility of their failing in the 
 hour of trial. Such however was their conduct during the 
 Action (and they were very much engaged) that they gained 
 the entire admiration of the whole British Army. Indeed 
 they performed several individual Acts of Heroism that would 
 have done honour to the Veteran Troops of any Nation. 
 Having failed in their attempts on our right and centre, we 
 were in hopes they would the next morning (28th) endeavour 
 to force our left. In this however we were deceived. All 
 remained tranquil, with the exception of skirmishing between 
 the Sharp Shooters. They did not appear so numerous this 
 Day as before, and in the afternoon we observed their 
 Cavalry in motion & moving to the Rear. The opinion now 
 became general, that they would no more attempt to dislodge 
 us, but that they would either retrace their steps to the 
 Frontiers, or otherwise endeavour to turn our left by 
 outflanking us. At One in the Morning of the 29th Lord W., 
 having received information that the Enemy were actually 
 quitting their ground, ordered the whole British Army to 
 march towards Coimbra. We halted one League from that 
 place, entirely ignorant as to the route the Enemy had taken. 
 
 On the 30th we proceeded through Coimbra, and halted 
 about half a league from it on the high Road leading to 
 Lisbon. We ascertained this Day that the French were 
 directing their course towards Coimbra with the utmost 
 speed, and that their Advance Guard was only two Leagues 
 from us. To facilitate their movements they abandoned all 
 their wounded who were not Frenchmen, leaving them to be 
 massacred by the Portugueze Peasantry. About seven 
 hundred of these wretches were collected by our Rear Guard. 
 A large part of our Army commenced its march this Day 
 towards Lisbon, and it became pretty generally known that 
 no further opposition would be made to the progress of the 
 Enemy, till we should reach our lines in the Neighbourhood of 
 the Capital.
 
 62 
 
 [1810] Octr. gth. I resume my Journal of our proceedings. — On 
 
 [Oct.] ^}jg jgj instant at Day Break our Cavalry and those of the 
 Enemy were drawn up in a plain opposite each other about 
 half a league on the other side of Coimbra. No general action 
 ensued. The skirmishing however was very sharp, and several 
 were killed and wounded on both Sides. At length our Cavalry 
 retired through the Town, which was almost immediately 
 occupied by the Enemy. At Noon we received a sudden Order 
 to march two Leagues on the high road leading to Lisbon. 
 The Enemy evinced every disposition to press our rear, and 
 we expected to be engaged in the course of the Afternoon. 
 To describe the confusion of this Day is utterly impossible. 
 The Road was so thronged with Fugitives, that it was with 
 the utmost difficulty we reached our destination before sunset. 
 On passing through Condixe, a considerable Town, I observed 
 Lord W. at a window evidently affected at the Scenes of 
 distress which were passing. It had never been apprehended 
 that the Enemy would advance so rapidly, and therefore a 
 great proportion of the Inhabitants had not left their Houses. 
 In one mixed scene of confusion and misery were seen the old, 
 the lame, and the blind, all hastening away as fast as their 
 infirmities would allow, and all alike insensible to the blessings 
 of French Protection which so immediately they might have 
 enjoyed. We passed the night in an Olive Grove near the 
 Road Side, and could distinctly hear throughout the whole of it 
 the noise occasioned by the Fugitives. A number of Stores 
 and a large quantity of Ammunition was destroyed at Condixe 
 from the impossibility of removing them. 
 
 On the 2d we commenced our march before Day Break, 
 and halted half a League on this side of Pombal amongst some 
 Fir Trees. This day's march was most fatiguing, the distance 
 twenty-five Miles, and the Heat more oppressive than I ever 
 recollect to have experienced. The Fugitives on the Road 
 were in immense numbers, but from the great width of it they 
 were enabled to get along without incommoding the Troops. 
 LrOrd W. had his Head Quarters this Evening at Leyria.
 
 63 
 
 On the 3d we pursued our march five leagues further, 
 and passing through Leyria halted among some Trees a mile 
 and a half from that City. Here we halted on the 4th. This 
 once populous Town was now become a Desert, not an 
 Inhabitant remaining in it. — This day Lord W. expressed his 
 thanks to the Troops in General Orders for their conduct at 
 Busacos, and took that opportunity of informing them that, 
 tho' circumstances had compelled him to abandon the Position 
 the Enemy had in vain endeavoured to force, he yet confidently 
 hoped to frustrate all their intentions and finally to emancipate 
 this country from the Shackles the French were preparing to 
 impose upon it. This Order was both politic and necessary ; 
 for, from the precipitate manner with which we had abandoned 
 so large a track of Country, melancholy forebodings had 
 possessed the minds of a large portion of the Army. 
 
 On the 5th we marched three Leagues, and halted near 
 Cavalhos. Our rear Guard had this Day a very sharp skirmish 
 with the Enemy, in which we took several Officers and sixty 
 Men. I had a conversation with them subsequently, in which 
 they stated their force to be less than sixty thousand Men. 
 They expressed their astonishment at the Gallantry of the 
 Portugueze displayed in the Action of the 27th ulto., and their 
 wonder was not less excited at their appearance and discipline 
 as they passed them on the Road. — They were perfectly aware 
 of our retiring to a strong position, but remarked, whatever 
 might be the strength of it, Massena had no alternative but 
 must of necessity attack us. They allowed the possibility of 
 his failure, and accompanied it with a shrue more significant 
 than could have been expressed in any language. They 
 admitted that since entering Portugal they had scarcely seen 
 an Inhabitant, which was of course productive of much distress 
 to their Army. It is said that Massena wrote to Lord W. 
 remonstrating on the Order he had given to the People to quit 
 their homes on the approach of the Enemy ; to which his 
 Lordship merely replied that " He regretted extremely his 
 Excellency suffered any personal inconvenience from it."
 
 64 
 
 [1810] Nothing particular occurred on the 6th. We halted near 
 
 [Oct.] j^JQ Mayor, at which place Lord W. had his Head Quarters. 
 
 The Enemy continued to advance, occupying the Ground as 
 
 fast as we quitted it. 
 
 On the 7th we marched to Abrigada, three Leagues, and 
 distant from Lisbon nine. On our march we fell in with a 
 party of the Duke of Brunswick Oels Corps whose appearance 
 excited general astonishment. Anything so fierce I never 
 before saw ; their Dress is Black, and in their Caps they wear 
 a Death's Head. 
 
 Yesterday I consider as the most uncomfortable Day of my 
 Life without any exception. We commenced our March at 
 Day break having to goto Sobral, a distance of three Leagues. 
 It blew and rained with the most dreadful violence, and in a 
 very short time rendered the Roads nearly impassable. 
 Unfortunately we had a Brigade of Portugueze in our Front, 
 who, unused to march in such fearful weather, could with 
 difficulty be persuaded to face " the pitiless pelting of the 
 Storm." Such was our delay in consequence, that at the end 
 of thirteen hours we found ourselves still a League from our 
 destination. Most fortunately an order arrived for us to take 
 up our abode for the Night in Villages near us, where by 
 means of large Fires we succeeded in making ourselves 
 tolerably comfortable. 
 
 This morning (gth) is showery. It is now ten o'clock, 
 but we have as yet no orders to continue our March. 
 
 I ith. In the Afternoon of the gth we received orders to 
 move to Villages about a Mile nearer our Position. In the 
 course of the same Evening an express arrived, that the 14th 
 Dragoons had been compelled to quit Abrigada about two 
 Leagues from us by a very superior force of the Enemy. In 
 consequence we were directed to march the next Morning 
 (loth) to a village called Filiteira, which we reached about 
 Noon. If possible the Day was more violent than the 8th.
 
 65 
 
 Fortunately we had no Portugueze in our front, which rendered 
 our march comparatively very short. We passed through 
 Sobral, a Town of considerable size, in which was quartered 
 the first Division under Lieut. Genl. Sir B. Spencer. We still 
 remain at Filiteira, and probably shall till the French oblige 
 us to retire to our Position, which I conceive is very near. 
 We are scarcely two miles from Sobral. The first Division 
 has been under Arms there the whole of the Morning, the 
 enemy having compelled our Dragoons & Light Troops to 
 retire there. It is impossible from the severity of the weather 
 that they can commence Operations on any large scale at 
 present, as the Roads are so much cut up by the Rains, that 
 they will be unable to bring up their heavy Artillery.— This 
 place is distant from Lisbon six leagues. 
 
 14th. On the evening of the nth it was intended that 
 General Spencer's Division should attack the enemy who had 
 possession of Sobral, and our Division was in consequence 
 ordered out on the Road leading to that place to support them 
 in case of necessity. The night was dreadful. After remaining 
 upwards of an hour we were directed to return to our Canton- 
 ments, the French having retired from Sobral. 
 
 The morning of the 12th proved equally violent with the 
 preceding Night. The Commissary attached to our Division, 
 a Young Man of most amiable manners, and a most valuable 
 Character in his situation, was unfortunately drowned in 
 attempting to cross a narrow Bridge. His Horse slipped and 
 fell into the River, and he was immediately carried down by 
 the violence of the Torrent, and seen no more. No trace could 
 ever be discovered of his Body. Nothing material occurred 
 this Day. There was a good deal of skirmishing in the vicinity 
 of Sobral ; but the badness of the weather prevented any action 
 of importance. We remained in our Cantonments in Filiteira. 
 Yesterday Morning broke upon us in "Thunder and Clouds 
 & Storms : " notwithstanding we were ordered to remain under 
 Arms. Fortunately about eight, when we received our Orders
 
 66 
 
 [1810] to march, the weather had cleared considerably. We ascended 
 f^'^^-] some Hills behind the Village we had occupied, where we 
 remained till the Afternoon, when we were again put under 
 Cover, it appearing evident that we should not be called upon, 
 at least as yesterday. — The skirmishing between the Picquets 
 was considerable, and the first fortieth Blood was drawn in 
 the afternoon, one man on picquet being severely wounded. 
 The nth Portugueze Regiment, one of two attached to this 
 Division, had an opportunity of distinguishing themselves. 
 They had never been before engaged, and their Conduct was 
 most heroic. They were charged by a body of French Troops 
 which they not only gallantly resisted, but charged their 
 Enemy in return & killed a great many of them. Col. Harvey, 
 who commanded them and who has the merit of bringing them 
 to their present state of discipline, was severely wounded. 
 The privation of his services is considered a great publick loss 
 
 This day all remains quiet. The enemy show themselves 
 in force on the opposite Hills, but do not manifest any 
 disposition to advance. The weather is at present fine, but 
 does not appear entirely settled. Should it continue favour- 
 able, they must of necessity commence their operations, as the 
 exhausted state of the Country they have passed through will 
 not admit of delay. 
 
 15th. Yesterday at noon a very smart skirmish took 
 place in which the 71st was principally engaged. They main- 
 tained the high Character which has so long distinguished them. 
 It was an experiment on the part of the Enemy which entirely 
 failed. They lost several Officers and two Hundred Men. 
 Our loss was about fifty. In the Evening an Aide du Camp of 
 Genl. Miller, who has a command in the Portugueze service, 
 passed through here on his way to Head Quarters from 
 Coimbra. He represents that place in possession of the 
 Portugueze, Genl. M. being there with five thousand Men. 
 They found there four thousand sick and wounded French, 
 who were sent down to Oporto.
 
 67 
 
 The whole of this Day has been perfectly quiet, but 
 doubtless the Enemy has been preparing for the Attack which 
 from their desperate situation cannot be long delayed. The 
 weather continues unfavourable. 
 
 1 8th. Since the last Date nothing material has occurred ; 
 indeed scarcely a shot has been fired. The Weather has 
 become much finer, and the Enemy as well as ourselves have 
 been busy in throwing up Works. Our Advance Posts are very 
 near each other. We observe their Generals constantly 
 reconnoitring. One of them a few days since, advanced too 
 near and was fired at from one of the Batteries. He was 
 killed by the first Shot. His name is said to be La Croix or 
 St. Croix, an Officer of considerable eminence. 
 
 Many opinions are formed as to the cause of the delay of 
 the Enemy in attacking us. The most probable one is that 
 they are waiting for reinforcements. Deserters say that the 
 Ninth Corps is expected in a few days, and that operations 
 will not commence till their arrival. 
 
 2ist. Scarcely a single shot has been fired since the last 
 date. Our advanced Posts and those of the enemy are within 
 three hundred yards of each other. It was for several days 
 the practice of the men of both Armies to meet in the same 
 Vineyards in the Valleys, and even to talk and shake hands 
 with each other. This has however very properly been put a 
 stop to, it being very justly considered that the Simplicity of 
 our Fellows was no match for the Cunning of a Frenchman. 
 Desertions from the enemy are frequent — on an average not 
 less than fifty a Day. They all concur in stating their extreme 
 want of Provisions ; and indeed the voracity with which they 
 devour anything given them is ample Confirmation of the 
 truth of their Statement. 
 
 I this day visited an immense Fort which is situated 
 about Midway between the sea and the Tagus. It is a most 
 stupendous Work, and commands the admiration of all Military 
 Men. The View from it is very extensive ; the sea and the
 
 68 
 
 [1810] Tagus can be distinctly seen. From its great height, it has 
 ■•^ the advantage of exposing all the movements of the Enemy. 
 
 The Marquis Romana with ten thousand Men arrived in 
 
 the Neighbourhood Yesterday. From the emulation existing 
 between the Spaniards and the Portugueze much is expected 
 from these Troops. 
 
 25th. We remain as quiet as if we had not an Enemy 
 within an hundred miles of us. Marshal Ney's Corps is said to 
 be gone to the Rear to open a communication with Almeida, 
 and the Enemy are busily employed in throwing a Bridge 
 across the Tagus near Santarem for the purpose of procuring 
 Provisions from the Alentejo side. Unfortunately their having 
 possession of Villa Franca prevents our Gun Boats from getting 
 up and impeding them. It is thought however, that some 
 Dash will yet be done by the Navy to prevent their accom- 
 plishing their object. 
 
 The whole of the Enemy's Picquets are now French, and 
 they keep so vigilant a look out, that the Germans and other 
 Foreign Troops find it almost impossible to desert; consequently 
 but few come in. 
 
 29th. Still no movement on either Side. Our men are 
 constantly employed in throwing up works, making entrench- 
 ments,&c.,thus strengthening what was before considered almost 
 impregnable. The weather has today a very threatening 
 appearance. Should the Rain set, in the Enemy will suffer 
 infinitely more than ourselves from it. A few Mornings since 
 we were very much astonished here at the excessively loud 
 roaring of the Sea, and it appears that at the same time the 
 People at Lisbon were very much alarmed by the shock of an 
 Earthquake, which does not appear however to have done 
 any particular injury. 
 
 [Nov.] Novr. 3d. The Enemy manifest no intention of either 
 
 advancing or retiring. We know not by what means they 
 have been able to subsist themselves so long, but we trust
 
 6g 
 
 they will ere long be compelled to attack us or retreat. There 
 is scarcely a possibility of their succeeding in the former ; and 
 if they attempt the latter they will doubtless suffer considerably. 
 Massena has failed in redeeming the pledge he made to his 
 Troops to be in Lisbon by the ist of this Month, and it is 
 probable he has postponed his intention sine die. The weather 
 is very unpleasant, being extremely cold, attended frequently 
 with rain. The place we are in is most wretched, and furnishes 
 no one species of comfort. Scarcely a house in the whole 
 Village is weatherproof. 
 
 6th. This Morning we distinctly saw a number of 
 General & other Officers busily employed in reconnoitring our 
 Position. They came very near, but were not fired at. From 
 the richness of Uniform, the number of Officers attending and 
 the strength of the Escort, there is no doubt that it was Massena 
 himself. No idea however is entertained that they will venture 
 to attack us. 
 
 gth. The Day before yesterday Marshal Beresford was 
 installed a Knight of the Bath at the Palace at Mafra. This 
 circumstance may be considered as an Era in Military History. 
 Lord Wellington having availed himself of the opportunity to 
 give a splendid Dinner to two hundred People, in the Evening 
 there was a Ball and Supper to which a proportion of the 
 Officers of the Army were invited. Besides Lord Wellington 
 & General Beresford, most of the General Officers were 
 present. Several of the Regency and Ministers of State, with 
 Adml. Berkely and Family, and several Families of the first 
 distinction from Lisbon attended ; also the Marquis Romana 
 with other Spanish General Officers, and at least four or five 
 hundred Officers of inferior Rank of the Spanish, Portugueze 
 and British Armies. Lord W. was in the highest Spirits. He 
 withdrew privately about Midnight, and the whole had retired 
 soon after two o'Clock in the Morning. It was difficult to 
 conceive at the Moment that we were before an Enemy, 
 everything being conducted in the same manner as if it were 
 in a Country in a state of profound Peace.
 
 70 
 
 [1810] The Palace at Mafra is a most magnificent pile of building, 
 
 [Nov.] g^jjj jjj gvgi-y respect worthy of being a Royal Residence. It 
 was dark when we arrived there, which prevented our seeing 
 more of it than the Rooms that were thrown open ; and its 
 distance from this part of the Position, renders it difficult to go 
 there by Day for the purpose of viewing it with that attention 
 it is undoubtedly deserving of. 
 
 The weather is bad, and appears to be breaking. All ideas 
 of taking the Field seem to be abandoned, as the Tents which 
 were served out are ordered again to be returned into Store. 
 The Enemy remain in the same Positions they have for some 
 time occupied. 
 
 2ist. On the Evening of the 14th we observed that the 
 Enemy made much larger Fires Ihan usual, which gave reason 
 to believe they were about retreating. Our ideas were well 
 founded, as on the Morning of the 15th when Day broke not 
 one of them was to be seen. Lord W. in consequence ordered 
 forward immediately the Dragoons and Light Division, 
 supported by the First and Second Divisions. On the 17th, 
 it being considered probable that our Division would not march 
 for some Days, I took the advantage of our proximity to 
 Lisbon, being only six Leagues, to go there, from whence I 
 returned this Day. I found the people there, so far as I could 
 observe, generally dissatisfied that the French had got away. 
 They appeared to think that we should have attacked them, 
 and in their opinion the Portugueze Troops alone were amply 
 sufficient to have annihilated them. The Enemy on their 
 retreat took the direction of Santarem, where they still remain, 
 but whether from choice or necessity is uncertain. It is 
 supposed that they are detained there in consequence of some 
 Bridges being carried away by the late very heavy Rains 
 having swelled the Rivers. A variety of Prisoners have already 
 fallen into our Hands. The 40th Regiment left Palmira on 
 Sunday Morning the igth, and marched to Alenquer, a Town 
 of considerable size, and where it seems for some time Massena
 
 71 
 
 had his Head Quarters. Yesterday they came to another 
 large Town called Azemboja where they still remain, and in 
 which place I found them this Morning on joining. I came 
 here by way of Villa Franca, which formed the advance of the 
 French Army. From that town to this, a distance of three 
 Leagues, is exhibited one melancholy scene of desolation. The 
 Skeletons of the Houses only remain, and the Roads are strewn 
 with the Carcases of dead Animals. 
 
 26th. We still remain at Azemboja, and the enemy 
 continue at Santarem. Lord W.'s Head Quarters are at 
 Cartajo, about two leagues on this side of Santarem and the 
 same distance from this place. Of the minor movements of 
 the Enemy we know nothing. Their communication with the 
 Alemtejo is prevented by Genl. Hill, who crossed the River 
 some days since with the whole of his Division. This Town 
 is nearly two Miles from the Tagus, and separated from it by 
 a flat Marsh which in the months of August, September, and 
 October, must render it in my opinion little less unwholesome 
 than the Island of Walcheren. 
 
 This is generally and justly considered one of the most 
 sickening Campaigns in Military History ; notwithstanding 
 the advanced Season of the Year, there being no probability 
 of an early conclusion to it. A great portion of the Officers 
 of the British Army are disgusted with it, as the Gazette some 
 few Months hence will, I conceive, abundantly evince. 
 
 The French Prisoners brought in unanimously concur in 
 stating that the Enemy have received large reinforcements, 
 and with all the insolence of the French Character they tell 
 us a very short time will elapse before we are driven into the 
 Sea. It may here be worthy of remark, that in passing through 
 Alenquer (a Town of considerable size, which for some time 
 was Massena's Head Quarters) the British Officer observed 
 on the house he occupied written in large Letters — Le loge- 
 ment du Prince d'Esling ; he immediately inscribed under it —
 
 72 
 
 [1810] " Qui a fait plus de bruit au battant la caissequ'en betrant les 
 [Nov.] Anglais." It is said that Massena commenced his military 
 
 career as a Drummer. 
 [Dec] December 5th. The respective Armies remain in the 
 
 same positions as on the last Date. The situation is so far 
 advantageous for ourselves, as the troops are more cheaply 
 and expeditiously supplied by means of Boats, the greater part 
 of our army being in the vicinity of the Tagus. 
 
 I yesterday rode to the advance, a distance of about 
 twelve or fifteen miles from hence. I remained an hour 
 within Pistol Shot of their Centinels, but no Shots are now ever 
 exchanged. The Enemy are intrenching themselves as 
 strongly as possible at Santarem, from which it would appear 
 they have no intention of abandoning the Position they 
 at present hold. 
 
 English papers received yesterday to the 7th ulto. 
 confirm the unpleasant intelligence of the King's 
 Malady. On the supposition that it may continue, many 
 Speculations are afloat. It is conjectured by several, that in 
 the event of a Regency there will be an entire change in the 
 policy hitherto observed towards the Peninsula. Most people 
 however seem to think, that, should a British Force continue 
 here, no set of Ministers would dare to displace Lord 
 Wellington, as from his deserved popularity and local 
 knowledge such a change would not fail to excite the utmost 
 discontent among the British and despondency among the 
 Portugueze Troops. As the Wind has now been fair several 
 Days, we may very soon expect intelligence of a much 
 later date. 
 
 14th. Our news from England does not come later than 
 the 27th Ulto., at which time nothing had been done with 
 respect to a Regency. Whoever may be Ministers, I have 
 not a doubt that the same policy will be pursued towards this 
 Country. In the meantime the Enemy continue to maintain 
 themselves at Santarem, and from thence to Thomar and 
 Leyria. Lord Wellington amuses himself with hunting and
 
 73 
 
 shooting, and it is said that a few days since in the ardour 
 of the chace he and Massena were very near coming upon 
 each other. The rides in this neighbourhood are excellent. 
 There are several beautiful Quintas within a short distance, 
 but it is melancholy to observe the devastation committed on 
 them by the Enemy, every House exhibiting proof of the most 
 wanton and unprofitable barbarity. The Murders they have 
 perpetrated on the unfortunate Peasantry, instigated it is 
 supposed by disappointed Avarice, are horrible & scarcely 
 to be credited. 
 
 26th. A second journey to Lisbon, where I remained 
 three or four Days, afforded me an opportunity of observing 
 a great change in the Sentiments of the People. They now 
 appear to think that Lord W. was right in not risking an 
 attack on the Enemy. The utmost tranquillity prevails there, 
 and business and amusement are carried on and pursued with 
 as much avidity as if the Country were in a state of profound 
 peace. Nothing new on the part of the Enemy. It is 
 rumoured Lord W. means to move the Army somewhat 
 nearer Lisbon for the purpose of facilitating the supplies. 
 
 31st. An Aide du Camp of Massena's has been taken 
 with despatches on his way to Almeida. As he was disguised 
 when taken, he was liable according to the Laws of war to be 
 shot as a spy. His Life was offered him on condition of 
 making a full disclosure of everything he knew. The 
 information gained from him of course has not transpired ; but 
 it is supposed to be important, as Genl. Hill made a sudden 
 movement with his Division towards Abrantes, and 
 Sir Stapleton Cotton who was at Lisbon on the point of 
 embarking for England has joined the Army to assume again 
 the Command of the Cavalry. 
 [1811] January 13th. Another Fortnight has elapsed without 
 
 (Jan.] anything particular having occurred. It is confidently stated 
 that Reinforcements to an immense amount are on their way 
 to join Massena, but it would seem as if Lord W. did not
 
 74 
 
 [1811] expect operations would speedily commence, as Sir S. Cotton 
 [Jan.] j^jj^ other General Officers are proceeding to England. 
 
 20th. We were last night awoke at midnight with an 
 Order to pack the baggage, and be in readiness to march at 
 a Moment's Notice. At nine o'Clock this morning, however, 
 intelligence arrived from Head Quarters that this precaution 
 was no longer necessary. It seems the Enemy entered 
 Rio Mayor yesterday evening in force, & it was deemed 
 likely that they were about to advance to their old ground. 
 They moved back again however towards Leyria in the 
 course of the Night, and in consequence the bustle amongst us 
 subsided. 
 
 25th. The utmost tranquillity again prevails ; the 
 gth Corps has joined Massena, but it is probable that his 
 whole force is not at present more than it was when he 
 first entered Portugal. 
 
 The Marquis Romana died the day before yesterday at 
 Head Quarters ; his death adds another to the many instances 
 of the awful uncertainty of Human Life. On the 23rd Inst, his 
 Baggage passed thro' this place, and he was to have followed 
 it as yesterday ; it being his intention to have proceeded to 
 the Alemtejo with his Army to increase the Allied force in 
 that Quarter, under the apprehension that Mortier with the 
 5th Corps was about to invade that Province. A few hours 
 after his Baggage had set out he was seized with spasms 
 in his stomach & almost immediately expired. His zeal in 
 the cause was unquestionable, but his Talents were considered 
 below par. 
 [Febr.] February i. This Morning one of the Brunswick 
 
 Corps was shot here for attempting to desert to the Enemy. 
 So many of these men have lately been guilty of the same 
 Crime, that Lord W. found it necessary to remove them from 
 the position they occupied in front. They are now quartered 
 in this place. Their defection will furnish matter of great 
 triumph to the malicious Soul of Cobbett,
 
 75 
 
 In the late reconnoissance at Rio Mayor a French, 
 General Officer was certainly wounded in the Head. The 
 Deserters say that it was Junot, and that he has since 
 been buried at Thomar, the wound having proved mortal. 
 
 4th. Last Night about twelve o'Clock we felt distinctly 
 the Shock of an Earthquake, and Daylight this Morning 
 presented us the novel appearance of the immense flat 
 between this place & the Tagus in a complete state 
 of inundation. The General Officer wounded at Rio Mayor 
 was Junot. A letter from his lady written from Ciudad Rodrigo 
 announcing her happy accouchement was intercepted & 
 brought to Lord W. There being nothing of a political 
 nature in it, the latter transmitted it to its destination. This 
 piece of politeness was acknowledged by Junot in a letter to 
 Lord W. in which he states that in the skirmish at 
 Rio Mayor he was " Grievement blesse." 
 
 Preparations are making at Lisbon for the reception of a 
 great many Regiments from England & Sicily, and it is 
 confidently said that Lord W. will on their arrival, or as soon 
 after as the weather will permit, act on the offensive. This 
 appears to be the general wish ; the whole Army is tired of the 
 late inactivity. If something is not done soon, it is probable 
 the New Ministers will put a stop to all ulterior intentions 
 by withdrawing the Army from the Peninsula. Their Organ, 
 the Morning Chronich, appears to be feeling the public Pulse 
 on the subject. Such a proceeding would blot the Page of 
 History, and should only be recorded as a memento of the 
 infamy of those who could recommend and adopt such 
 a measure. 
 
 18. A continuance of Southerly Winds has prevented 
 our receiving any intelligence from England for a considerable 
 time. The same cause probably has operated against the 
 arrival of the expected reinforcements. In the mean time 
 all remains quiet on this side the Tagus. The 5th Corps of
 
 76 
 
 [1811] the French Army under Mortier on the other side has taken 
 [Ff.br.] Olivenza, & besieged or rather invested Badajos. The 
 Garrison made a Sortie a few days since, destroyed the Enemy's 
 works, & killed twelve hundred ; their own loss was severe. 
 General Foix, returning from Paris to the Head Quarters of 
 Massena a short time since, with an Escort of two thousand 
 Infantry and a thousand Cavalry, had his Rear Guard attacked 
 by a Colonel Miller with only Eighty of the Ordinanza with 
 him. It is worthy of record, that with this small force he 
 captured a great part of the Baggage and killed two hundred 
 & seven Men, among whom was the Colonel of the 70th 
 Regiment. Castanos is appointed to succeed the Marquis 
 Romana. This appointment has given great satisfaction. 
 [March] March i. Since my last date we have papers to the 
 
 2nd Ulto., at which time the Regency Bill had not passed both 
 Houses. Reinforcements to a large amount are coming out, 
 which will, it is generally supposed, render Lord W. 
 sufficiently strong to enable him to commence offensive 
 Operations with advantage. At all events it appears 
 impossible that the Enemy can remain long in their present 
 Position : there are the most unquestionable proofs of them at 
 present undergoing the severest privations, and two French 
 Officers who passed through this place Prisoners a few days 
 since unequivocally stated that the French Army was too 
 weak to hazard the attempt of forcing the Lines. Indeed they 
 avowed their opinion that Portugal would not be conquered 
 now or at any other time ; and this idea they principally 
 founded on the extraordinary devotion of the lower Orders to 
 their Country, & consequent detestation of their Invaders. 
 And indeed it is impossible not to admire this people. On the 
 approach of the enemy they instantly pack up their little all, 
 and abandon their Homes with a cheerfulness almost 
 inconceivable. — In the different Towns and Villages where 
 there are Military, subscriptions have been received by which 
 means several thousand of them are daily provided with an 
 excellent Dinner,
 
 77 
 
 In the meantime the Spanish Troops which marched 
 from this Neighbourhood a few weeks since have been 
 surprised by the Enemy near Badajos, who killed about two 
 thousand of them ; the rest dispersed in all directions, leaving 
 behind them the whole of their Baggage, and every piece of 
 their Artillery. They have now, I believe, no regular Army, 
 but they can do an infinite deal more mischief to the Enemy 
 by confining themselves to a desultory mode of warfare, such 
 as the intercepting of small Parties, Convoys, etc. Badajos 
 has not yet fallen, but it is not now expected to hold out long. 
 
 7th. On the evening of the 4th Orders were received for 
 the 4th Division to march the following Morning & occupy 
 Cantonments in the neighbourhood of Cartaxo ; the 3d 
 Divn. was directed to remove from Alemquer & take up 
 our Quarters at Azemboja ; these movements were in 
 consequence of Lord W. receiving information that a variety 
 of circumstances indicated an early movement on the part of 
 the Enemy. His conjectures were not ill-founded, as favoured 
 by the obscurity of Night, they abandoned their position about 
 eight o'clock on the evening of the 5th. The next Morning 
 all the British Army was in Motion ; the Dragoons & Light 
 Division went in pursuit of the Enemy ; the ist, 3d, & 4th 
 Divisions marched to Santarem, where we remained last 
 night. It is a town of very considerable size, but exhibits 
 a melancholy instance of French Barbarism ; the Churches in 
 particular have suffered the most unheard of devastation ; one 
 only was spared, and that had been converted into a regular 
 Theatre, where, so late as Sunday evening last, the triumphal 
 entry of the French Army into Lisbon was represented. The 
 Position they occupied here is certainly one of the finest in 
 Portugal. — It appearing that they had commenced their 
 retreat in two columns, the one by Torres Novas & the 
 other by Golgao, Lord W. likewise has divided his force in 
 pursuit of them. We arrived at the latter place this day, but 
 I have not yet been able to ascertain whether the Enemy (who
 
 78 
 
 [1811] quitted this Village this morning at eight o'clock) are 
 
 [March] retreating in the direction of Thomar, or have crossed the 
 
 Zezere and propose going by Castel Branco. Hitherto we 
 
 have made but few Prisoners. Lord W. is with that part of 
 
 the Army following them by the way of Torres Novas. 
 
 1 2th. On the 8th we marched to Thomar, which place 
 the Enemy had quitted the same Morning. We found that 
 their whole force was retreating in the direction of Coimbra. 
 We halted on the gth, on which Day it was generally 
 understood, & indeed certainly intended, that our Division, 
 with the Second, & a Brigade of Cavalry, should proceed 
 into the Alemtejo, and attack Mortier at present investing 
 Badajos. This arrangement was however altered, an Order 
 arriving in the Night for our marching the next Morning in 
 the direction of Pombal, the Enemy having shewn themselves 
 there in great force, & with an apparent intention of making 
 a resolute defence there, it being a considerable Depot for their 
 stores. We halted for the Night on the side of a Hill about 
 three Leagues from Thomar. On the following morning (the 
 nth) we proceeded on our way to Pombal, distant upwards of 
 five Leagues. On our route we heard the Enemy were in a 
 strong Position with every apparent intention of defending it. 
 The different Divisions were directed to march as quick as 
 possible, as Lord W. was most anxious to attack them before 
 Sunset. The length of the March & the badness of the 
 Roads rendered this impracticable ; the attack was therefore 
 deferred till this Morning, and the necessary orders given for 
 carrying it into execution at Day Break. The Town of Pombal 
 was carried very gallantly yesterday by the Dragoons & 
 Light Brigade ; it being however under the Fire of the 
 Enemy's Artillery, they were compelled to evacuate it. In the 
 Evening the Enemy took up a Position on some heights on the 
 right Hand of the great Road leading to Coimbra. Lord W. 
 took up his position immediately opposite to them. Between 
 the two Armies was a flat about half a mile in breadth and a
 
 79 
 
 River waist high running in the centre of it. The crossing of 
 this, it was generally conceived, would occasion much loss in 
 our Army, it being so completely commanded by the enemy's 
 Artillery. This loss however we had not to sustain, as at Day- 
 break we found the Foe had disappeared. We consequently 
 lost no time in pursuing them. We came up with them about 
 a league & a half from Pombal, when the Army was formed 
 for a regular attack, which they again evaded by a precipitate 
 flight. There was however a most beautiful affair of Posts, 
 in which the Enemy lost several hundred in killed, wounded & 
 Prisoners ; our loss was about a hundred. Lord W's dispositions 
 for the attack to day excited the greatest admiration throughout 
 the Army, & prove him to be a consummate General. We 
 have no means of ascertaining the force of the enemy, but it 
 is supposed it is only a Rear Guard consisting of about fifteen 
 thousand men, and, as we hear, all French.— They regularly 
 burn to the Ground every place they pass through. In following 
 them we find each Town & Village a heap of smoking ruins. 
 Our halt this night is near Redinha above three Leagues from 
 Condexa, but I do not at present know how far the enemy are 
 in advance of us. 
 
 14th. The Enemy were so strongly entrenched in 
 Condexa yesterday that it was not deemed prudent to attack 
 them. We halted above a League from that place & could 
 distinctly see the Town burning the whole day. In the after- 
 noon they retired, taking the direction of the Ponte de Murcella. 
 The Light Division took up a Position on the Enemy's side of 
 the Town ; it was feared the French would make a forced 
 march in the night and pass the Ponte de Murcella without 
 further opposition. At Daylight this Morning we commenced 
 our March & passed through Condexa ; not a solitary House 
 remained that was not burnt to the Ground. It was a beautiful 
 Town when we were last here. We had not got a mile from 
 Condexa when a sharp firing commenced in our front An 
 Order was received for our Division to march to Espinhal, 
 where we arrived this evening ; it is possible there may be a
 
 8o 
 
 [1811] double Meaning in this Movement. It is pretty certain that 
 [March] ^g ^^.^ destined for the Alemtejo, this place being in the high 
 Road from the Ponte de Murcella to Thomar & distant from 
 ' the latter place eight leagues ; there is little doubt but we shall 
 
 commence our march for Thomar to-morrow Morning. At 
 the same time by this movement we threaten the Enemy's 
 left Flank. Tho' distant from the Scene of Action we heard 
 the firing distinctly the whole Day ; the carnage must have 
 been dreadful ; we have not the possibility of knowing the 
 extent of our loss , but I think it may be fairly estimated at a 
 thousand men. We had the satisfaction of knowing however 
 that our brave fellows were compelling their Enemy to retire. 
 
 1 6th. Yesterday Afternoon we received an Order to 
 march in the direction of Thomar, which place we were to 
 have reached this Evening, but the distance (eight Leagues) 
 prevented us ; we have halted for the night at or rather in the 
 vicinity of a small Village called Venda Nova, and to-morrow 
 we pursue our march to Tancos, where it is intended we shall 
 cross the Tagus. It will be a week before we reach the 
 Enemy, and ere that period it is to be feared Badajos may 
 have fallen. Lord W., after pursuing his Foe to a certain 
 point, proposes assuming the command of the British force in 
 the Alemtejo. 
 
 The wretched Inhabitants are returning to their destroyed 
 dwellings. They could by no means understand our retrograde 
 movement of this Day, and it was with difficulty we could 
 persuade them that the French were not at our heels. The 
 enormities committed on the property and Persons of these 
 poor People by the Enemy can scarcely be recited with the 
 expectation of gaining belief. The entire destruction of the 
 different Towns and Villages they have lately passed through 
 renders it probable that they have no intention of ever again 
 invading the Country, but the Ruin and Devastation they have 
 occasioned cannot be entirely effaced in a less period than half 
 a Century.
 
 8i 
 
 1 8th. Early yesterday morning we reached Thomar 
 where we halted for the Day ; on our arrival there we had the 
 mortification to learn that Badajos surrendered on the loth. 
 Whatever were the intentions of Lord W., they are I suppose 
 suspended for the present ; in the meantime Marshal Beresford 
 who commands on this side of the water has directed the troops 
 to march in the direction of Portalegre, doubtless with a view 
 to covering the Alemtejo, which may be said in some degree 
 to be threatened by Mortier. Our march to-day was only 
 three leagues We halted for the Night in the vicinity of a 
 small Village immediately on the Banks of the Tagus called 
 Arripiada ; the Enemy have never had footing in it, but it is 
 not sufficiently capacious to accommodate the Troops. 
 
 We are without news from the Army, but we have learned 
 that notwithstanding the very heavy firing on the 13th our loss 
 did not exceed one hundred and fifty men. 
 
 20th. Yesterday Morning we commenced our march at 
 Daylight ; our Route lay through a difiicult but most picturesque 
 Country along the Banks of the Tagus. We halted for the 
 Night in the Neighbourhood of a village immediately opposite 
 Abrantes ; this Day we have marched four Leagues, and to our 
 great surprise are in houses in a miserable village called Ga vao ; 
 we are still Eight Leagues from Portalegre. On our arrival 
 there it is probable we shall know something respecting our 
 final destination. It is most desirable that the troops should 
 have a few Days' rest before they again encounter their 
 Enemy. A March of between two and three hundred miles 
 necessarily occasions a great wear and tear in the Appoint- 
 ments of Soldiers. 
 
 24th. On the 2ist we marched five Leagues and halted 
 at a place called Alpaltrao, sufficiently large to accommodate the 
 Division ; the following day we reached Portalegre, a Town 
 of considerable size. Here we had the mortification to learn 
 that the enemy had taken Campo Mayor. Papers from 
 England to the 6th Inst, announced to us the Regent's inteution
 
 82 
 
 [1811] of pursuing the War in the Peninsular with Vigour. The 
 
 [March] exhausted state of the Troops and the want of Shoes rendered 
 
 it necessary for the Division to halt the 23d. Portalegre has 
 
 a beautiful Cathedral, and the principal Cloth Manufactory of 
 
 the Kingdom is likewise there. 
 
 This day we marched Four leagues to Arronches ; 
 Marshal Beresford with the 2d Division had quitted it before 
 our arrival. Campo Mayor is distant from hence only four 
 Leagues ; the Enemy have four thousand Troops there, and 
 hopes are entertained that a part of our force may get between 
 them and Badajos & cut them off. — We have no Accts. from 
 Lord Wellington. 
 
 26th. We left Arronches at daybreak yesterday Morning 
 and arrived before Campo Mayor by a circuitous route about 
 two in the Afternoon. We found the enemy had quitted it at 
 Noon, and that they were closely pursued by our Dragoons. 
 It is impossible to describe the Joy of the Inhabitants as 
 we passed the Town ; they hailed us with the loudest 
 acclamations. We had not proceeded two miles further before 
 a very different Scene presented itself ; the road was strewn 
 with the dead and dying. At the end of a long League from 
 the Town we received Orders to return to Campo Mayor. 
 The Enemy were pursued by a part of the 13th Dragoons to 
 the very Walls of Badajos. In their Confusion they abandoned 
 everything, but unfortunately, the 13th not being supported 
 by Infantry, they were enabled to remove their Artillery &c., 
 &c., afterwards. One Howitzer & many Prisoners remained 
 in our possession & the Enemy's loss in killed was very great ; 
 on our side we lost three Ofificers & about fifty Men. — There 
 is nothing indicating a probability of our quitting this place ; 
 it is supposed that Marshal Beresford waits for instructions 
 from Lord Wellington. In the mean time he has taken up 
 his Quarters at Elvas. 
 
 29th. We are anxiously waiting for news from the Army 
 under Lord Wellington ; it is near a Fortnight since we have
 
 83 
 
 had any Acct. of it ; in the mean time we remain here in a 
 state of profound inactivity ; it appears that the 1 3th Dragoons 
 in pursuing the Enemy the other Evening took sixteen pieces 
 of Cannon, all their Baggage and upwards of a thousand 
 Prisoners, but from some strange infatuation the heavy 
 Dragoons & Infantry not being allowed to follow them they 
 were enabled again to take possession of all they had lost and 
 bear it in safety to Badajos. Complaints are deep and general 
 on the occasion against the Marshal, and it is very probable 
 the Affair will yet cause much stir. 
 [April] Apr. 2d. Yesterday morning we marched from Campo 
 
 Mayor to Elvas, where we occupy the Quarters vacated by 
 the 2d Division who are gone to Villa Vicosa. The utmost 
 secrecy as to our future Operations is observed ; preparations 
 however on a large scale are making for a siege, which it is 
 supposed can only be for the purposes of attacking Badajos. 
 
 The number of Military here is about fifteen thousand. 
 These with the inhabitants and a crowd of fugitives have filled 
 the Town to excess. Every Article is in consequence 
 enormously high. 
 
 The last accts. from Lord W. are of the 25th Ulto., at 
 which time his advanced Guard was at Celerico ; he had made 
 many Prisoners. 
 
 6th. We quitted Elvas on the morning of the 4th Inst., 
 and encamped the same day in the neighbourhood of 
 Jerumenha. We wait here till the 2d Division shall have 
 passed the Guadiana ; the River is not at present fordable, & 
 the floating Bridge is very incomplete ; in all probability we 
 shall not get across before to-morrow Morning. In the mean- 
 time we are in the most perfect ignorance of the movements 
 of the Enemy ; we do not even know whether or not they are 
 in possession of Olivenza, tho' it is only two Leagues from us. 
 We are in hopes that Lord W. will almost immediately be 
 with us, accts. from Head Quarters stating that the Enemy 
 have been dispossessed of Guarda, and that they have been
 
 84 
 
 [1811] compelled to retire to the other side of the Coa, so that the 
 [April] campaign in the North of Portugal may be considered as 
 terminated. The whole Army here long for the presence of 
 the Comr. of the Forces, so unbounded is their confidence in 
 him; and indeed he does appear to leave far behind him all 
 his Competitors for Military Fame. 
 
 loth. At one in the morning of the 7th we crossed the 
 Guadiana, and proceeded about half a League on the Road 
 leading to Olivenza. Our entrance into Spain was marked by 
 an event sufficiently calamitous, when it is considered it might 
 have been avoided by Common Prudence. We had just laid 
 down after reaching our halting ground on the Morning of the 
 7th when we were alarmed by a sharp firing in the midst of 
 the Camp ; the confusion was general, most of the men being 
 in a sound sleep. The cause of the Alarm was a Party of French 
 Dragoons who had forced our Picquets, and had the audacity 
 to come to the very confines of our Camp ; fortunately they 
 were not aware of our confusion and they retired. We had how- 
 ever the mortification to learn very soon that they surprised 
 two Squadrons of the 13th Dragoons, & that they had taken 
 them off in triumph to Olivenza. This unfortunate business is 
 said to be wholly attributable to the Officer commanding that 
 portion of the Cavalry who the' in the most advanced post of 
 the Army had suffered his men to unbridle, and they were thus 
 rendered incapable of resistance. — We remained on the same 
 ground the whole of that Day and the 8th, during which time 
 the other part of the Army, Artillery, Stores, Baggage, etc., 
 etc., were crossing the river. Yesterday morning we proceeded 
 on the Road towards Olivenza, and halted about a Mile from 
 the Town. Marshal Beresford sent in a Flag of Truce offering 
 Terms, which were rejected by the Garrison, tho' they do not 
 amount to four hundred men. Some very extraordinary reason 
 must be the cause of the enemy leaving so inefficient a force. 
 The Marshal has sent to Elvas for heavy Artillery for the 
 purpose of making a breaching Battery, & taking it by Storm,
 
 85 
 
 should they be so imprudent as to push things to that 
 extremity. It appears extremely odd that the possibility 
 not to say probability, of their refusing to deliver up the 
 Garrison should not have been earlier taken into Acct., and the 
 Battering Train on the spot ; there does appear however that 
 there is a fatality attending the Operations of this Army which 
 forms a striking Contrast with the energy and foresight 
 displayed in every movement by the troops under Lord W. 
 Fortunately the weather since last night has assumed an 
 appearance which promises to continue fine ; it has been for 
 several days dreadful, & the sufferings & hardships of the 
 Troops have in consequence been extreme. — Accts. have 
 reached us from Lord Wellington to the 3d on which Day he 
 crossed the Coa, and attacked the enemy, compelling them to 
 retreat with the loss of upwards of a thousand Men. 
 
 1 2th. Yesterday passed without any particular occurrence. 
 The siege is left to our Division (the 4th), the 2d & a Division 
 of Portugueze having marched to Valverde, a short distance 
 from hence, to act as a Corps of observation. Last Night the 
 Trenches were opened ; the Enemy kept up a smart Fire 
 during the Night ; the only casualty however was the loss of 
 one of the Brunswick Corps, whose Head was carried clean 
 off by a Cannon Shot. It is hoped that in the course of this 
 Night the breaching Battery will be completed & the Guns 
 mounted by Daylight ready to open ; its contiguity to the 
 Town will make the breach to be effected in a very short time 
 tho* it is probable they will capitulate before even that shall 
 be effected. 
 
 13 th. The breaching Battery is made in an old Redoubt 
 about two hundred and sixty yards from the Town ; it will be 
 completed this Night, but could not be finished sooner from 
 the great difficulty found in removing the Angle, where it will 
 be necessary for the guns to enter, the Gate leading into it 
 being exposed to the Enemy's Fire. The twenty-four
 
 86 
 
 [1811] Pounders are to open in the Morning ; it is intended to use 
 [April] every caution not to injure the Town. As soon as Olivenza 
 falls, it is understood we shall commence the siege of Badajos, 
 which is said to contain a Garrison of only Seven hundred 
 men ; we shall however find more annoyance there, as it is 
 much better supplied with Artillery. 
 
 17. The Battery was completed on the night of the 13th, 
 but on bringing up the Guns the entrance was found to be too 
 narrow : we had therefore the mortification of being obliged to 
 wait another 24 hours. This was remedied the following 
 Night & at Daylight yesterday the Battery was ready to open. 
 At half past five a Flag of Truce was sent in offering them 
 the honours of war ; which they rejected ; the Guns immediately 
 opened. At noon they sent out offering to deliver up the 
 place, provided they were allowed to go to France as Prisoners 
 of War, not to serve till regularly exchanged ; they were 
 answered, that as they had given us the trouble of erecting 
 and opening our Batteries, they must now surrender at 
 discretion. A second message was then received from them 
 requesting the terms offered them in the Morning : the only 
 reply was a renewal of the Firing. Finding us determined 
 and aware that a very short time would suffice to render the 
 breach practicable, they surrendered at discretion, and about 
 two o'clock a portion of our Troops marched in, when 21 
 Officers and upwards of four hundred Men were made 
 Prisoners. We were received by the Inhabitants with the 
 loudest acclamations. Notwithstanding the Enemy kept up 
 an incessant Fire Night and Day upon our working parties, 
 our Casualties were only four killed & eight wounded. The 
 expectation of marching immediately upon Badajos was general. 
 To our surprise however we yesterday received Orders to 
 proceed in the direction of Santa Marta which is on the high 
 Road to Seville, & distant from Olivenza seven Leagues. 
 We arrived in the neighbourhood of the former place this 
 Morning, when we found directions to wait here till further
 
 87 
 
 Orders. Marshal Beresford is in front with the Cavalry and 
 2d Division, but we are entirely ignorant of his plans and 
 intentions. We have passed through several Spanish Towns 
 and Villages, and they all bear evident marks of having enjoyed 
 the blessings of French protection ; the Country between this 
 & Olivenza is for the most part entirely barren. 
 
 20th. We remained encamped near Santa Marta till this 
 morning, when we received Orders to retrograde in the 
 direction of Olivenza ; we have halted for the present at a 
 Town called Almaudhral situated about half way between 
 those two places. It is conjectured we are immediately going 
 to invest Badajos. Lord W. reaches Elvas this Evening ; 
 under his auspices the Siege will doubtless be vigourously 
 conducted. 
 
 The 17th Dragoons had an opportunity a few days ago of 
 being revenged on the very troops who surprised their Squadron 
 near Jerumenha ; they came up with them near Zafra, and 
 destroyed & took prisoners nearly two hundred of them. 
 
 We have little news of the Army in the North ; it appears 
 our Advance have passed Ciudad Rodrigo, & that Almeida is 
 invested. 
 
 22d. Yesterday morning we left Alamandhral, & marched 
 to Valverde, which is distant from Badajos about four Leagues; 
 we hope to remain here till everything is ready to commence 
 the siege. The 1 6th of this Month was set apart at Lisbon 
 for a solemn Jubilee to celebrate the entire expulsion of the 
 Enemy from Portugal. It is impossible not to remark a great 
 Apathy amongst the Spaniards, when compared with the 
 extraordinary devotion to the cause of the Country pervading 
 the Breasts of the lower orders in Portugal. 
 
 25th. We received our Orders to quit Valverde at Noon 
 on the 23rd for the purpose of crossing the River at Jerumenha, 
 the latter place not being large enough to accommodate the 
 Brigade. Our Regiment remained in a small Village on this
 
 88 
 
 [1811] side of the water, intending to follow the Brigade to Elvas the 
 [April] following day. This plan was frustrated by the Bridge being 
 carried away, the heavy Rains we have lately had having 
 swollen the River to an unusual height. We know not what 
 was the intention of our going towards Elvas, & we are equally 
 ignorant what we are now going to do. Yesterday Afternoon 
 we were directed to march to Olivenza, and this morning we 
 proceeded from that place to Valverde, where we remain this 
 Night, and go on to-morrow to Talavera Real, & from thence it 
 is supposed to Merida, where we shall again meet our Brigade ; 
 in the mean time we are attached to the Light Brigade under 
 Genl. Alten. The weather has been for some time & still is 
 very unfavourable for carrying on the Siege ; it is to be hoped on 
 the settling of the fine weather everything will be ready for 
 conducting it vigorously. 
 
 27th. We reached Talavera yesterday Afternoon after a 
 fatiguing March of five Leagues through a most barren 
 Country. We have as yet no orders to proceed further. This 
 place is called Talavera la Real to distinguish it from Talavera 
 de la Reyna where Lord Wellington gained his celebrated 
 Victory. — It would appear as if the principal seat of warfare 
 will be in the North, Lord W. having left us again to join the 
 Army there. 
 [May] May 2d. On the 28th Ulto. we quitted Talavera, and 
 
 proceeded to a village called Lobon, two Leagues further on 
 the Merida road ; we halted there till yesterday morning, when 
 we reached Merida, where we crossed the Guadiana, and 
 to-day came to a small Town called La Puebla immediately 
 opposite to Lobon. The two other Regiments of the Brigade 
 are quartered in Montejo about half a Mile from hence. We 
 expect to remain here till the commencement of the siege ; the 
 accommodation is better than we have for a long time 
 experienced. 
 
 Merida is a town of very great antiquity ; the scientific 
 Antiquarian will find in it ample scope for his research ;
 
 89 
 
 amongst other ancient Structures is a very fine Aqueduct built 
 by the Saracens, & the remains of a large Roman Amphi- 
 theatre, which have since been converted into a Place del 
 Tores or place for Bull-fighting, but is now in Ruins. 
 
 4th. We remain in La Puebla without any intimation as 
 to the probability or improbability of an early removal. We 
 are so comfortable here that all. Officers & Men, are anxious 
 to stay. The German Brigade marched last night from 
 Talavera to commence the investment of Badajos. It is 
 possible we are to form a Corps of observation ; at all events 
 we are fortunate in getting to this Side of the River, as the 
 principal Operations will be carried on on the other. I call it 
 fortunate, because there is so much fatigue and so little glory 
 attending a besieging Army, that it is rarely one meets a 
 Military Man anxious to be engaged in such a service. 
 
 6th. It would appear as if the Siege was on the point of 
 commencing ; the Town is completely invested on the South 
 Side of the Guadiana, and we expect to march to-morrow or 
 the day after at farthest to complete the investment. In the 
 mean time we are entirely separated from our Division. The 
 Fusiliers & Portugueze Brigade marched this Morning from 
 Merida in the direction of Badajos, to take a part in the 
 operations to be carried on on the other side. A most obstinate 
 defence is expected from the Enemy ; nevertheless we hope to 
 be in possession of the Town by the 4th of June next. 
 
 gth. We quitted La Puebla early on the morning of the 
 7th, & bivouacked that Night in a wood. Yesterday about 
 ten o'clock we arrived on our ground in front of Fort 
 St. Christoval, a work of some strength on the North side of 
 the Guadiana, & from its Situation commanding the Town. 
 The Enemy for sometime disputed some heights near it, but 
 were at length compelled to retire into the Fort. They 
 communicate with the town by means of the Bridge. Last 
 night we broke ground for the purpose of erecting a Battery
 
 go 
 
 [1811] to dislodge the Enemy from the Fort ; at the same time our 
 [May] Friends on the opposite Side of the water commenced their 
 operations. The Siege appears to be well begun. The Fire 
 from the Enemy's guns has been very severe ; the loss of the 
 Brigade on this side of the River already amounts to about 
 eight Men killed & several Officers & fifty Men wounded. 
 Our situation is a most unpleasant one ; the weather is 
 extremely hot, and we have not the smallest possible Cover ; 
 we consequently look forward with much anxiety to the 
 completion of the Siege. 
 
 nth. The working Parties resumed their operations on 
 the night of the gth. Its proximity to the Enemy's work is 
 considered as rendering it a most daring undertaking to break 
 ground so near them. It would appear that they dread our 
 getting possession of it, and yesterday morng. soon after Day- 
 light they made a most serious effort to dislodge us from it. 
 They succeeded in getting possession of it for a moment, & 
 were proceeding to destroy the Work when they were charged 
 by the Picquets & compelled to retreat. Unfortunately our 
 Troops pursued them with their wonted ardour to the very 
 Walls, where they were exposed to a most destructive Fire of 
 Shell Shot and Musquetry ; notwithstanding with a very 
 .inferior force they completely routed their Enemy. Tho' 
 the affair was but of short duration, the Brigade lost four 
 hundred Men, of which two hundred were of the 40th ; the 
 loss of Officers was also very great ; we had eight wounded, 
 among whom my two Messmates, the Lieut. -Col. & Major, 
 were severely handled: it was one of the most painful Days of 
 my Life. 
 
 This Day our Battery opened, but the Enemy have been 
 able to bring so many Guns to bear upon it that it cannot act 
 with much effect, & indeed there is reason to fear they will 
 be enabled to dismantle it ; we have not found the co-opera- 
 tion we expected from the Army on the other Side of the Water.
 
 91 
 
 13. As was apprehended, the Guns were completely 
 silenced before the Evening of the nth. Little has been done 
 since, and we are all in a complete state of despondency at 
 having witnessed so much Blood shed in vain ; the blame 
 rests somewhere, & our Brigade have been, & continue to be 
 the victims of some shameful mismanagement ; our Casualties 
 continue very distressing. The Troops on the other side of the 
 River appear to have done absolutely nothing, and the whole 
 force of the Enemy has thus been permitted to fall upon us. 
 To add to our Misfortunes, the Weather yesterday set in very 
 bad, and continues to-day a most threatening appearance. 
 The Troops are so completely exhausted by hard labour, that 
 should the Enemy make another vigorous Sortie, our Situation 
 would be eminently critical. 
 
 15. To our utter astonishment an Order was received on 
 the Afternoon of the 13th to suspend the Operations, & to 
 convey to Elvas the various stores belonging to the Engineers, 
 Artillery & Commissariat : at the same time we found a similar 
 Order had been issued on the other Side of the Water. This 
 Order was said to be the consequence of the Marshal having 
 received information that Soult was on full march to attack 
 us with a superior force. Yesterday morning a dispatch 
 arrived directing the Order of the preceding day to be suspended 
 inasmuch as it was possible, & accordingly expresses were 
 sent to Elvas to bring back the Stores. On the opposite Side, 
 this Order could not be obeyed, as from the want of conveyance 
 they had been obliged to burn a vast quantity ; no directions 
 were however given to continue the Operations. Everything 
 continued the whole day in a state of uncertainty. This has 
 however been relieved this morning by another Order, to send 
 off without any delay all the Stores to Elvas, & in consequence 
 every exertion is 
 
 {With the above words the writer's first notebook covtes 
 to its close. The narrative has evidently been at once 
 carried on into a second book, of which the first leaf,
 
 . 92 
 
 [1811] containing some two Jiiindred and sixty-five words has 
 
 L^'^^J unfortunately perished. The tale, as we have it, re- 
 
 commences in the middle of a sentence). 
 
 possible at a Ford about a League above the town of Badajos; 
 the necessity was urgent as Soult with a large Army was 
 rapidly advancing upon Marshal Beresford ; it was however 
 found impracticable, and at night we quitted our ground & 
 proceeded to Elvas. The following morning (i6th) we 
 marched to Olivenza ; the distance being five leagues, & the 
 roads dreadfully bad, it was near dark before we reached that 
 place. There we learned that an Engagement had that day 
 taken place, the result of which we could not that Night 
 collect. At One o'Clock the following Morning we proceeded 
 in the direction of Valverde, & from thence to Albouera, near 
 which place the Battle had been fought. On our arrival on 
 the Field of Combat a Scene the most horrible that the 
 imagination can conceive presented itself. The ground was 
 covered with the dead & the dying. It appeared that Soult 
 having collected a Force amounting to twenty five thousand 
 Men, of which number at least five thousand were Cavalry, & 
 relying upon his superiority in this latter Force in a Country 
 so favourable for their acting, in the confidence of success 
 resolved to attack the allied Army of British, Spanish, & 
 Portugueze, amounting to thirty thousand. The attack com- 
 menced on the morning of the i6th by a feint on the left, which 
 was immediately succeeded by the real attack on the right. The 
 Allies of both Nations fought bravely ; but the British as 
 usual had the brunt of the Action ; the Conflict between them 
 & the Enemy was dreadful. The battle did not terminate till 
 towards Evening, when they retired in every direction. The 
 loss of the allied Army is estimated at five thousand Men, of 
 which number at least four thousand were British. It is 
 supposed the Enemy suffered in a still greater proportion. It 
 is difficult to say on which side the Victory lay ; we had the 
 honour of repulsing the Enemy in his attack, and frustrating
 
 93 
 
 his intention of relieving Badajos ; moreover all his wounded 
 fell into our hands : on the other side, in a charge made by his 
 Cavalry he succeeded in taking near a thousand of our Men 
 Prisoners, besides the Colours of three Regiments and a 
 Howitzer. Each Party will doubtless claim the Day, but the 
 decision must be made by some who cannot be weighed in it 
 by partiality. The Enemy retreated across a Plain, & took 
 up his Position in a thick wood about two Miles from the 
 Scene of Action ; there he remained the whole of the following 
 day. — It now became a general opinion that he would either 
 retreat that Night, or attack us again the following Morning. 
 At Daylight on the i8th we had the satisfaction of finding he 
 had preferred the former. His Cavalry still shewed a front 
 & some skirmishing took place ; in the course of the forenoon 
 they were entirely gone. This Movement was a great relief 
 to every one ; the British Troops had suffered so severely, that 
 another Attack was anticipated with much apprehension ; 
 besides the wounded demanded the utmost care, & in the 
 event of such another Day the loss of lives from the impossi- 
 bility of giving proper attendance to all would have been very 
 great indeed. — Yesterday (igth) our Brigade was employed in 
 carrying wounded Men to Valverde. We encamped near that 
 place last Night, & this Morning joined the Army. We have 
 taken up our Position in the Wood occupied by the Enemy 
 after the Action. It does not appear that they are rapidly 
 retreating ; their rear Guard is not more than four Leagues 
 from hence. In the opinion of many they will return, & give 
 us Battle again, it being an object of great importance to them 
 to save Badajos. In the meantime our hopes are elated by 
 the expectation of seeing Lord Wellington, who is to arrive 
 this Evening. Two Divisions of the Army are likewise on 
 their march here in order to oppose Reynier, who is advancing 
 in this direction with his Corps ; so that this is likely to become 
 the chief scene of Action. For my own part I have been so 
 completely horrified at the dreadful Scenes I have lately been 
 compelled to witness, that they have given me a disgust for
 
 94 
 
 [1811] the Army I never before entertained. I see however no 
 [May] prospect of an early termination to the Campaign ; on the 
 contrary every thing seems to indicate that it will be a very 
 protracted one. It is to be hoped we shall see but few more 
 such Battles as that of the i6th, as they would in a very short 
 time render the British Army a mere Name. 
 
 23d. We remained in the wood during the 2 ist,& marched 
 from it Yesterday Morning at daybreak in the direction of 
 Almandralejo. We halted for the Night about two Leagues 
 from that place, understanding that the enemy continued in 
 the neighbourhood of Azenchal. The Army moved forward 
 this Morning in that direction, with the intention of giving 
 them a broad hint to take themselves off; on arriving near we 
 found they had gone. The 2d Division was therefore directed 
 to march to Almandralejo into Cantonments, & our Division 
 fthe 4th) is quartered in Azenchal. We have now the expect- 
 ation of remaining some Days quiet, and indeed the Army 
 stands much in need of it. This is a miserable place for the 
 accommodation of so many. The French quitted it yesterday 
 Morning, which furnishes the Inhabitants with an excellent 
 excuse for denying the possession of any one Comfort, alleging 
 that they took away every thing away with them. It is 
 melancholy to observe the Apathy that prevails among the 
 People in general; it appears to me that they think it a matter 
 of little moment whether they surrender their independence 
 or not. 
 
 A letter from a Genl. Gazan to Soult has been intercepted 
 in which he says that he has with him four thousand some 
 hundred wounded in want of every species of Aid & Comfort ; 
 he mentions also having been obliged to leave three hundred 
 in Almandralejo, which we have found to be the case. Their 
 loss on the i5th was very great, it cannot be estimated at a 
 less number than eight thousand. Lord Wellington has 
 taken up his Head Quarters at Elvas and Badajos is again 
 invested by a Division of Portugueze ; there is no doubt that,
 
 Missing 
 
 Total 
 
 547 
 
 4138 
 
 26 
 
 380 
 
 573 
 
 4518 
 
 95 
 
 when the Siege begins, it will be carried on with the utmost 
 vigour ; half measures do not suit his Lordship. 
 
 25th. We remain in Azenchal, nor have we any prospect 
 of soon quitting it. Our accommodation is but bad, however 
 it is luxury compared with what we have lately been 
 accustomed to. We are in hopes of remaining here during the 
 Siege. The 3rd & 7th Divisions have ere this arrived before 
 Badajos, & they with the Portugueze will form an ample P'orce. 
 
 Our loss on the Battle of the i6th is as follows : — 
 Killed Wounded 
 British 886 2705 
 
 Portugueze 102 252 
 
 Total 988 2957 
 
 221 Officers included in the above. 
 
 The Spaniards had 1500 Men killed & wounded &c. The 
 only General Officer killed was Majr. Genl. Houghton ; Majr. 
 Genls. the Hon. W. Stewart & the Hon. G. L. Cole both 
 commanding Divisions were wounded. The Army has 
 particularly to lament the Death of Sir Wm. Myers, who fell 
 at the head of the Fusilier Brigade which he was leading on 
 most gallantly ; at an early Age he had attained very high 
 rank being a Lieut. Col. at Eighteen ; his superior Abilities 
 excessive zeal & entire devotion to the Service however proved 
 that he was admirably qualified for the situation he filled ; he 
 died at the age of twenty eight, and his Death may be justly 
 considered as a most severe loss to his Country. 
 
 By a distinguished act of gallantry a Corporal of Artillery 
 prevented a Gun from falling into the Hands of the Enemy ; 
 Lord Wellington with a liberality worthy his great mind has 
 given him an hundred Dollars, & directed him to be promoted 
 on the first vacancy. 
 
 We have accounts of the fall of Almeida, which completes 
 the entire expulsion of the Enemy from Portugal. So great a 
 blessing the Portugueze as a Nation have deserved ; their
 
 96 
 
 [1811] loyalty and devotedness to a sacred cause are unparallelled in 
 [May] ^[jg history of Nations, and do them immortal honour. Could 
 I witness but a twentieth part of their loyalty in the Spaniards, 
 I should anticipate their emancipation with Confidence. As 
 it is I confess I look forward with more of fear than hope. 
 They appear disposed to be content under any Government. 
 Such a People deserve not to enjoy the sacred blessing of 
 Freedom. 
 
 27th. A very brilliant affair took place on the 25tb 
 between our heavy Dragoons and a portion of the Enemy's 
 Cavalry. A small number of ours only showed themselves 
 which induced the French to cross a narrow Bridge for the 
 purpose of attacking them : the main Body then fell upon 
 them, and routed them with great slaughter. Their loss in 
 killed, wounded, & missing was four hundred besides many 
 Officers : we had only three killed and twenty wounded. 
 
 We have no expectation of any thing being done for some 
 time ; Marshal Beresford has quitted the Army for Elvas, 
 from whence it is said he proceeds to Lisbon for the purpose 
 of still further augmenting the Portugueze Force. — Genl. Hill 
 is daily expected here to take the command of this Corps of 
 the Army ; he is a very popular Officer. — The Marines & 
 Artificers belonging to the Regiments in this Neighbourhood 
 to be employed at the Siege of Badajos marched from hence 
 this Morning. 
 
 30th. The Siege of Badajos has not yet commenced, but 
 the preparations on a very large scale are going on as fast as 
 possible. Lord W. has taken possession of a Quinta in the 
 Neighbourhood, & his presence will infuse energy in every one 
 concerned in the Operations. In the meantime Soult is 
 collecting another Army at Llerena, which is only nine 
 Leagues from here. He has at present a numerous Cavalry 
 and about twelve thousand Infantry. It is supposed that 
 Reynier with about ten thousand Men has reached Truxillo, 
 and he will doubtless effect his junction with Soult. Unless
 
 97 
 
 the latter however can get further reinforcements from the 
 South he will not be in strength to raise the Siege. The heat 
 of the Weather is dreadful, and will I fear be productive of 
 much Sickness in this Corps of the Army ; indeed I think it 
 probable notwithstanding the warlike appearance of every 
 thing that in the course of the next six Months we shall lose 
 more Men by Sickness than by the Sword. 
 
 [June] June 2d. We hear nothing further of the Enemy, nor 
 
 have we any reason to believe that they will be able to raise 
 the Siege. We are in hopes that our Batteries opened this 
 Morning, and, as they are on an immense scale, it is generally 
 believed the place will fall in a few days. What are the 
 intentions of Lord W. when this occurs we know not ; it is 
 generally thought however that we shall not advance far into 
 the interior of this Country. 
 
 5th. We have reason to believe that the Batteries 
 opened on the 3d. They are said to be excessively formidable, 
 consisting of about fifty pieces of heavy Canon besides a large 
 quantity of Mortars & Congreve Rockets. One of the Bat- 
 teries was erected only fifty paces from the Walls. To 
 prevent the Enemy from hearing the Men at Work during the 
 Construction the following expedient was hit on : — several 
 hundred Sheep & Goats each with a Bell about the neck were 
 driven immediately under the walls between the intended 
 Battery & the enemy ; the noise they made effectually preven- 
 ted the French from knowing what was going on till Daylight, 
 by which time the work was completed. General Hill, who 
 has been in England some time severely indisposed, arrived 
 yesterday to take the Command of the two Divisions of the 
 Army in this Neighbourhood ; he is a Man of such conciliating 
 manners & of a disposition so truly amiable that his return has 
 excited the most lively satisfaction. 
 
 8th. It appears that the walls at Badajos are so excess- 
 ively hard, that the progress in the Siege is by no means so 
 quick as the Engineers had flattered themselves ; no particular
 
 98 
 
 [1811] Day is now mentioned when the Breach may be expected to 
 [June] ^^ complete. It is said that Fort St. Christoval will be taken 
 to-night by Storm ; the possession of it will materially contri- 
 bute to the success of the ulterior Operations ; the excessive 
 heat of the weather and the entire want of Shelter must make 
 the whole duty most painful to the besiegers. We hear 
 nothing further of the Enemy ; but it cannot be doubted that 
 Soult is making every exertion to raise a Force sufficient to 
 compel us to abandon our intentions. 
 
 loth. We yesterday received Orders to be in immediate 
 readiness to march, which were repeated early this Morning 
 with directions to have the Baggage Animals kept saddled ; 
 eight hours have elapsed since this latter Order, & we hear no 
 further on the subject. 
 
 An attempt was made the other Night upon St. Christoval, 
 which failed, as is said, from the Storming Party mistaking 
 the proper place and the Ladders being too short by several 
 feet ; we lost fifty Men on the occasion. 
 
 nth. ID a.m. We have this moment received orders to 
 march and to reach Albouera this Evening. There is not a 
 doubt that the enemy are in motion, and it seems probable 
 there will be another sanguinary Contest on the same ground; 
 much depends upon the issue. 
 
 Another unsuccessful attempt was made upon St. Chris- 
 toval the Night before last : we lost many Men ; it is said that 
 the Siege was raised last night. 
 
 13th. We quitted Azenchal on the Afternoon of the nth, 
 but did not march further than a League ; we are encamped 
 in an Olive Grove midway between Azenchal & Solano on the 
 Road leading to Albouera. Every thing is again quiet in 
 front, the movements of the Enemy the other day could have 
 been nothing more than a reconnoissance, tho' it is highly 
 probable they will again advance. It seems certain that the 
 Siege of Badajos has been converted into a Blockade: the
 
 99 
 
 Engineers found too late that they had erected their breaching 
 Batteries against the most impregnable part of the place ; they 
 were literally battering a Rock. Much Blood has been most 
 unsuccessfully spilt. Our hopes now rest on being able to 
 keep Soult in check and starving the Garrison ; this is at the 
 best uncertain. No blame is imputed to Lord W. ; there is 
 no doubt that he was deceived by the too sanguine represen- 
 tations of the Engineers. 
 
 15th. We marched at noon on the 13th from our 
 encampment near Solano, and proceeded two Leagues in the 
 direction of Albouera, when we halted ; at two o'Clock in the 
 Morning of yesterday we again marched, & encamped in the 
 wood occupied by the Enemy after the Battle of the i6th, & 
 in which we halted after they quitted it ; there is no doubt 
 that Lord Wellington has selected the same Position for the 
 Scene of Action. His Head Quarters are in the Village of 
 Albouera. We do not exactly know where the Enemy's 
 advance at present is ; but they continue approaching us, 
 and it is probable that the conflict will take place in a day 
 or two. 
 
 i6th. It is supposed that Marshal Marmont who lately 
 succeeded Massena in the command of the French Northern 
 Army is advancing rapidly on the right bank of the Guadiana. 
 When joined with Soult, they would have such an alarming 
 superiority, that it would be rashness, if not madness, to think 
 of engaging them. In consequence we last Evening quitted 
 the wood, and crossing the river at the bridge of Albouera 
 remained for the Night on some heights above that place ; at 
 3 o'clock this morning we marched in the direction of Badajos, 
 & are now halted in a wood about a League from that Town. 
 Our sojourn here is very precarious, having just received 
 Orders to have every thing prepared to start again at a 
 Moment's Notice. Of the intentions of his Lordship we are 
 gnorant, but it is generally conceived we are going to the 
 other side of the Guadiana for the purpose of taking up some
 
 100 
 
 [1811] strong position till we can be joined by Genl. Spencer, who is 
 LJfNEj gg^jj J.Q |_|g advancing with our Northern Army. This neces- 
 sity is to be lamented as it compels us to uncover Badajos, 
 and thus defeats at once what we have spilt so much valuable 
 blood in endeavouring to attain. 
 
 19th. On the 17th we quitted our encampment near 
 Badajos, and crossing the Guadiana at a Ford halted in an 
 Olive Grove in the Vicinity of Elvas. The Day turned out 
 most severe, and during the Night the Thunder & Lightning 
 were truly awful, no Person in the Camp ever having experi- 
 enced anything so dreadfully terrific ; the Rain came down in 
 such Torrents, that in a very short time we were almost 
 completely under water. In Consequence Yesterday Morning 
 we were ordered into Elvas, which place we quitted again this 
 Day ; we are at present halted about two Leagues on the Road 
 leading to Portalegre, and, as we suppose, in the neighbourhood 
 of our Position, provided the French choose to attack us in it. 
 They have an immense Force, Marmont having certainly 
 united with Soult. To counteract this General Spencer with 
 the principal part of our Northern Army has made a parallel 
 movement, and can join us in a few hours. The desponding 
 are of opinion that we shall be immediately compelled to retire 
 to our Lines, whereas others think that the combined move- 
 ment of the Enemy was merely for the purpose of throwing in 
 succours into Badajos ; having effected which they will cease 
 to molest us. Lord W. has however prepared for the worst ; 
 under the possibility that Elvas may be besieged, the Inhabi- 
 tants have been recommended to quit their Houses, and every 
 other necessary precaution has been made. 
 
 There is a report very current & which has gained some 
 credit at Head Quarters viz., that we have taken in the 
 Mediterranean ten Sail of the Line, having nine thousand 
 Troops on board, making a push from Toulon to Catalonia, 
 where it is certain the Enemy have lately been losing ground. 
 Should this prove true, it will very materially alter the nature
 
 lOI 
 
 of things in the Peninsula, and Soult will most assuredly be 
 obliged to retrace his steps hastily. 
 
 23d. We still continue in the same encampment, the' our 
 stay in it is very uncertain. Yesterday was a day of bustle ; 
 the Enemy kept us constantly on the qui vive ; they shewed 
 themselves in considerable force both in the Neighbourhood of 
 Elvas & Campo Mayor. In a skirmish we took two Officers 
 and some Men, but most unfortunately a Picquet of the nth 
 Dragoons, just arrived from England, was surprised, & three 
 Officers & forty Men made Prisoners ; the enemy retired to 
 Badajos in the afternoon, and they have not since been seen. 
 Opinions are divided whether this movement was a reconnois- 
 ance previous to their advancing, or if it was only intended to 
 cover a retrograde Movement towards Seville, they having 
 succeeded in their object of throwing succours into Badajos. 
 
 28th. A severe pectoral complaint compelled me to quit 
 the Regiment on the 23d for the purpose of avoiding the night 
 dews. I was recommended to try the air of Portalegre, at 
 which place I arrived the 24th, and still remain, having found 
 the greatest benefit from the few Days I have been here. 
 Portalegre is generally considered the Montpellierof Portugal ; 
 it is prettily situated surrounded by Hills chiefly covered with 
 the Olive ; like the other large Towns in this Country it abounds 
 with Priests of every description. I had an opportunity this 
 day of seeing the Bishop officiate in the Cathedral, and I must 
 say a more undignified Gentleman I never saw ; very unlike 
 indeed my good Friend, the Bishop of Guarda. 
 
 This place is seven Leagues from the Head Quarters of 
 the Army. I have no certain accounts from thence, but it 
 appears that the Enemy having gained their object of relieving 
 Badajos have again retired, and, as it is said, in two Columns, 
 one on Merida, & the other in the direction of Seville, for the 
 purpose of preventing Blake (who marched some days since 
 with the whole Spanish force) from getting possession of that 
 place.
 
 102 
 
 [1811] English papers to the 12th instant inform us that the good 
 
 [Jdne] people there are highly delighted with the battle of Albouera, 
 and it even appears that two great Houses have unanimously 
 decreed their thanks to a certain Individual " for the disting- 
 uished ability displayed by him &c. &c." O Tempora, O Mores. 
 
 [July] j^jy ^d. It having been satisfactorily ascertained that 
 
 the Enemy had retired, the Army Yesterday marched into 
 Cantonments; the 5th Division entered this place (Portalegre). 
 Having again in great measure regained my wonted health, I 
 purpose going to-morrow in search of my Regt. 
 
 Great reinforcements are expected from England ; but it 
 is hoped that nothing will be done till the three next months 
 shall have passed by, as the extreme heat in this Country 
 in the Months of July, August, and September occasions even 
 under Circumstances the most favourable great degree of 
 sickness amongst the Troops. 
 
 9th. Only three Divisions of the Army are in Cantonments, 
 the uncertainty of the Enemy's Movements rendering it 
 necessary that the remainder should be accessible to act as 
 circumstances may require. I found my Division in the same 
 place I left it. It does not seem likely that anything will be 
 done for some time. It is said the Enemy are concentrating 
 everything in Estremadura, and in the meantime reinforce- 
 ments are daily arriving from England ; probably, when the 
 hot season is over, a great blow may be struck. 
 
 Genl. Graham, the Conqueror at Barrosa, is coming here 
 as second in command. This appointment has given universal 
 satisfaction ; the various Casualties of war might possibly 
 deprive us of the Services of Lord W., and under such a 
 calamity it would be a great consolation to every one that the 
 Command of the Army should devolve on an Officer of such 
 avowed talents as Genl. Graham. 
 
 14. Nothing whatever in the shape of news has lately 
 occurred. Reinforcements continue to arrive from England,
 
 103 
 
 and amongst others four hundred men & upwards have arrived 
 to join my Regiment ; this puts out of all probability the likeli- 
 hood of our returning to England, even tho' circumstances 
 should eventually oblige us to quit the Peninsula ; which 
 however appears less probable than ever. 
 
 25th. On the 2ist we broke up from our encampment, 
 and marched in the direction of Elvas, near which place we 
 remained for the night. The 22nd we continued our route, & 
 bivouacked in the Neighbourhood of Borba. The following 
 morning we reached Estremos, where we are likely to remain 
 some time, it being destined as the Quarters of the 4th Division. 
 The whole Army are now in Cantonments, & it is expected 
 they will remain so during the continuance of the hot Season, 
 which lasts till about the first week in October. On leaving our 
 encampment strict Orders were issued not on any account to 
 destroy the huts, from whence is inferred the possibility that 
 we may have at some future time to occupy them again. 
 Head quarters are at Portalegre & the different Cantonments 
 of the Army extend from the Tagus to the Guadiana. 
 
 30th. The old Adage of their being nothing certain under 
 the Sun is at present abundantly verified by our receiving 
 orders to quit our cantonments, & march to-morrow Morning 
 in the direction of Castello Branco. This has come most 
 unexpectedly upon us, as everyone was making himself 
 comfortable at least for a period of two months. It appears 
 that Tarragona has fallen, & that Soult is marching upon 
 Carthagena ; Marmont is in consequence left alone, and it is 
 supposed Lord W. is going to attack him before he can be 
 reinforced. 
 
 [Aug.] August 4. We marched from Estremos according to 
 
 route on the 31st, & bivouacked near the small Town of 
 Fronteira. On the ist we proceeded to Crate, four Leagues 
 further, where we were miserably accommodated in Canton- 
 ments. On the 2nd we marched to Alpalhao two Leagues, &
 
 104 
 
 [1811] yesterday arrived at Nisa, two more Leagues, where we halt 
 [Aug.] this Day. 
 
 We are still entirely in the dark as to the cause of our 
 present movement. Many are of opinion that Lord W. is 
 about to make a demonstration on Madrid, in order to compel 
 the Enemy in the South to desist from their operations there. 
 It appears more probable however that we are going into 
 Cantonments in the North ; there is no doubt that a vast 
 number of lives will be saved by such a change of Quarters. 
 
 We continue our march to-morrow Morning, and shall 
 cross the Tagus at Villa Velha for the purpose of proceeding 
 to Castel Branco, where we shall receive another Route. 
 
 8th. On the 5th we quitted Nisa, & marched by almost 
 impassable Roads to Villa Velha, three Leagues ; the following 
 Day we proceeded to a small village called Sarnadas, and 
 yesterday morning reached the ancient City of Castel Branco. 
 It is a Bishop's See, but the Cathedral & Town are alike in 
 a state of great dilapidation. The Palace and Gardens of his 
 Reverence however are in complete repair, and have an Air of 
 luxury and Comfort about them I have not before witnessed in 
 this Country. 
 
 When we reached Castel Branco, the General Officer 
 Comg. the Division was without Orders to proceed any further. 
 In the course of the Day however an Order was received 
 directing us to march this Morning towards Penamacor, which, 
 tho' only eight Leagues distant from Castel Branco, we are to 
 be four Days in performing. The excessive heat of the 
 Weather renders it impossible to go long marches without 
 infinite injury to the Troops ; agreat deal of sickness at present 
 prevails, to which a number of officers are victims ; indeed I 
 consider the Climate of this Country during the hot months in 
 Autumn as little less unhealthy than the West Indies. 
 
 No enquiries we could make have been able to give us the 
 smallest insight into the intentions of Lord Wellington.
 
 105 
 
 Every one therefore is at perfect liberty to enjoy his own 
 Opinion, and we wait till Time shall disclose whose 
 Speculation is the wisest. 
 
 13th. On the gth we marched to San Miguel, two 
 Leagues, and on the loth to Pedrogo, the same distance. At 
 the latter place we were to go into Villages in the Neighbour- 
 hood ; accordingly on the morning of the nth the Division 
 went into its several Cantonments. Our Regiment is in two 
 wretched Villages, merely affording Covering ; we can purchase 
 no one Article whatever. It is probable we shall not remain here 
 many days. The Divisions in our front are said to be moving, 
 & we hear that our advance is within three leagues of Ciudad 
 Rodrigo. Among other Speculations many are of opinion that 
 Lord W. is about to attack that Fortress to prevent his left 
 flank from being constantly menaced ; the idea is at least 
 plausible, tho' there may be no intention whatever to undertake 
 such an Operation. 
 
 The name of our principal Village is Aldea de Joao Perez, 
 about a League from Penamacor. 
 
 17. We hear nothing about moving, but it appears that 
 the Enemy were at a Village about five Leagues from hence 
 the day before yesterday demanding Rations ; it is not supposed 
 they are coming in this direction, but that they are moving in 
 the direction of Ciudad Rodrigo, which place it is asserted 
 Lord W. is certainly threatening. Head Quarters are beyond 
 the Frontier, but I know not at what place. 
 
 20. The enemy continue to make their occasional appear- 
 ance within a few Leagues of us. Two or three Days since 
 they took a Convoy of Mules laden with Provisions for the 
 Light Division ; a party of the i6th Dragoons, and an officer 
 were also surprized. It is certain that our Cavalry are by no 
 means so expert in the Out Post duty as the German Hussars ; 
 there is no instance of their having been surprized.
 
 io5 
 
 [18111 24. We are likely to remain in this wretched place a 
 
 [Aug.] considerable time ; the Weather is dreadfully hot, but the 
 
 Troops are much healthier than they were a week ago. 
 
 Reinforcements, particularly Dragoons, continue to arrive 
 from England, and Lord W. in the last Gazette appears as a 
 General with temporary Rank, that is, in Spain & Portugal 
 only. The papers to the 7th inst. give a deplorable acct. of 
 His Majesty's state ; indeed they leave little reason to hope 
 that he is now alive. On the accession of the Prince to the 
 Throne, it is probable the same System with regard to this 
 Country will be persevered in ; and, as the enemy themselves 
 no longer talk of driving us into the sea, it is impossible to 
 calculate when hostilities in the Peninsula will have an end. 
 
 29. On the evening of the 27th we received a sudden and 
 most unexpected Order to commence our March in the direction 
 of Penamacor, which place we passed through Yesterday 
 Morning and halted near a village called Merimoa. This Day 
 we have had a march of two long Leagues thro' a deplorably 
 barren country. We are in bivouac in the neighbourhood of 
 the wretched remains of a Village called San Antonio. 
 Tomorrow we proceed Northward ; our destination is said to 
 be in front of Almeida beyond the Frontier. It seems certain 
 that Lord W. is about to commence the siege of Ciudad 
 Rodrigo. The heavy battering Train will very soon be ready. 
 From the circumstance of nearly the whole Army being 
 brought up it is inferred that his Lordship will give battle to 
 any Force the Enemy can bring to oppose him. 
 
 31. Our Route was Yesterday Morning changed, and we 
 were directed to march to Villa de Toro, where we were to receive 
 instructions as to the Cantonments we were this day to occupy. 
 Accordingly at an early hour this morning the Division 
 marched into different Villages, extending nearly in a line 
 about three Leagues distant from Guarda. Here it was 
 intended we should have remained for some time, but an Order 
 has just arrived, directing us to march to-morrow & take up
 
 107 
 
 our original destination, which we suppose to be between the 
 Coa & the Agueda. We are entirely ignorant as to the cause 
 of these different changes. 
 
 It was a twelvemonth yesterday since we quitted Guarda 
 under circumstances which would have rendered the idea of 
 our being at this time in the neighbourhood as nothing less 
 than madness ; there is no calculating on the future, but 
 certainly during no period of the Contest have our prospects 
 been brighter than at present. 
 
 [Sept.] Sept. 2. We yesterday Morning marched from Mamolina 
 
 to a village called Preixal. This Morning we proceeded to a 
 village, whose Misery beggars description, & which unfortunately 
 is assigned as our Cantonment ; it is called San Pedro, & bemg 
 only two Miles from the Spanish Frontier in the direction of 
 Ciudad Rodrigo it has consequently frequently been visited by 
 the Enemy, who have left it nearly a heap of Ruins. 
 
 5th. We hear nothing of the Enemy, nor are we as yet 
 able to assign any probable cause for our movement to this 
 part of the Country. Since I have been here I have had an 
 opportunity of riding over to Almeida, it being only a league 
 from hence and a most melancholy spectacle it presents; nothing 
 can be more complete than the destruction of the Bastions ; 
 indeed with the exception of two or three houses the Town is 
 one heap of undistinguished Ruins. I had also yesterday an 
 opportunity of seeing Fort Conception, which is situated just 
 within the Spanish Frontier ; it was destroyed last year by order 
 of Lord W. when the enemy advanced upon Almeida ; its 
 destruction also is very complete. 
 
 nth. It is reported that the Enemy are concentrating 
 their Forces for the purpose of throwing succours into Ciudad 
 Rodrigo, which are there much wanted ; this Lord W. will of 
 course endeavour to prevent unless he is greatly outnumbered. 
 The Light Division are some distance in front of Ciudad Rodrigo 
 in the direction of Salamanca. Sickness unhappily prevails to
 
 io8 
 
 [1811] a melancholy extent in our Army ; in my Regiment alone the 
 [Sept.] present returns of Sick are fifteen Officers and six hundred 
 Men. As the weather however is beginning to get cool, we 
 are in hopes that the Troops will be more healthy ; the total 
 Amount of ineffectives at present is, I believe, not less than 
 twenty thousand Men. 
 
 19th. Early on the Morning of the 17th our Division 
 received a sudden Order to change its Cantonments ; we 
 marched four Leagues that Day, & bivouacked for the Night 
 in the neighbourhood of a small village called Alamandilla ; it 
 is in Spain but chiefly inhabited by Portugueze. Yesterday 
 morning we resumed our march, and reached our cantonment 
 at the most wretched of all wretched Villages called Fencalhos : 
 it is in Portugal ; the remainder of the Division are in Spain. 
 This is the second time we have had the ill luck to get into 
 Portugueze Villages, when we expected to be in Spain : besides 
 that the Enemy have not done a hundredth part of the 
 mischief to the latter that they have to the former, there is an 
 air of cleanliness in the Spanish Villages one can never meet 
 with in Portugal, which renders the former so infinitely 
 preferable as a Cantonment. 
 
 We know not whether anything is likely to be done soon 
 or not. It is said the Great Convoy is expected to quit 
 Salamanca as to-morrow. I should rejoice at anything that 
 would remove us from the state of misery we are in in this 
 place. We have observed every night for the last week a 
 Comet from which is reflected a very considerable light ; it is 
 situated immediately under the Constellation of the Great 
 Bear ; our being in this place is by many jocosely attributed 
 to its malign influence. 
 
 21. There is a probability that we shall not remain long 
 in this village : an Order has been received from Head 
 Quarters for the Division to hold itself in readiness to march 
 at a Moment's Notice. Whether our Movements will be 
 forward or retrograde we have no idea ; it seems however that
 
 log 
 
 the Enemy has been carrying everything before them in the 
 South East of Spain, which may possibly frustrate the 
 execution of any plans Lord WelHngton contemplated in this 
 quarter ; should we be obliged to fall back it is thought we 
 can take up a position on the Coa sufficiently strong to oppose 
 any Force the Enemy can bring against us. 
 
 24th. We left Fencalhos yesterday Morng., & marched 
 two Miles in front of Lord W's Head Quarters (Fuente de 
 Guinaldo) where we are bivouacked. It is said that the enemy 
 are in such force, that it was impossible to prevent them 
 throwing Succours into Ciudad Rodrigo, which it is supposed 
 entered that place Yesterday & this Morning : they are reported 
 to be sixty thousand strong, which outnumbers us by at least 
 fifteen Thousand. Tho' Lord W. does not feel himself strong 
 enough to act offensively, it would appear that he thinks 
 himself equal to defend himself if attacked ; should they 
 advance, the Contest will probably be in this Neighbourhood ; 
 strong parties are at work throwing up entrenchments etc. 
 
 We are in Spain almost immediately on the banks of the 
 Agueda (which washes the walls of Ciudad Rodrigo) and 
 about four Leagues from that place. 
 
 29. On the 25th the Enemy in Force attacked the 
 Division who were in advance beyond the Agueda. We were 
 in consequence ordered to their support, but did not come into 
 action as the affair was over before we came up. In the 
 Evening both Divisions took up a Position in front of Fuente 
 Guinaldo having the Enemy about three Miles from us in 
 great Force. We fully expected to be attacked the next 
 morning at Daylight & Lord W. had ordered every species of 
 Baggage to be out of the Village an hour before daybreak ; 
 they did not however come on. We remained the whole day in 
 the same position, and from a height in our possession had a 
 distinct view of the French Army, which was vastly superior 
 to what we had supposed, amounting to about six thousand 
 Cavalry and thirty thousand Infantry ; whereas our Force
 
 no 
 
 [1811] opposed to them was not more than fifteen hundred of the 
 [Sept.] former and about twelve thousand of the latter. In the course 
 of the Day further reinforcements were observed to come to 
 them, as also a large Force of Artillery of the largest calibre. 
 They had now such an overwhelming superiority that 
 Lord W. directed the whole Army to retreat that night in the 
 direction of Sabugal. The next morning (27th) a considerable 
 part of our Force was assembled near a Village called Aldea 
 de Ponte in Portugal, & about three Leagues distant from 
 Fuente Guinaldo ; at ten o'Clock the enemy's Cavalry began 
 to appear, and in a very short time presented a most formid- 
 able appearance supported by Infantry ; at noon they drove in 
 our out posts and advanced rapidly upon us; the business 
 lasted about an hour, when they were completely repulsed. 
 All remained quiet for some hours, & we were about to make 
 ourselves comfortable for the Night, when just before dusk 
 they renewed their attack, and were repulsed, as in the Day. 
 Our loss amounted in both affairs to not more than sixty in 
 killed &. wounded besides several Officers. ^At two o'Clock 
 Yesterday Morning we again commenced our march and 
 halted at a place called Soito at Daylight ; a position was 
 taken up on some heights above it, and we were in a moment- 
 ary expectation of again seeing the Enemy. They have not 
 however since appeared, and without knowing anything certain 
 an idea is entertained that they have taken the direction of 
 Almeida by way of proceeding to Celorico, where we have 
 Stores, a General Hospital &c. This idea is strengthened by 
 the Circumstance of the 5th Division having received orders 
 this morning (29th) to make a forced March beyond Sabugal 
 in the direction of Guarda. We occupy still the high ground 
 above Soito, but are in momentary expectation of an Order to 
 march. It is not probable that the Enemy can with any 
 force penetrate far into Portugal, as the Country is so entirely 
 destitute of every species of supply ; for my own part I 
 conceive the game in Spain as nearly up, & I doubt not that our 
 future attention will be almost exclusively directed to this
 
 Country, which is as much as our limited means will enable 
 us to defend. 
 
 [Oct.] Octr. i. — Yesterday morning the Division received orders 
 
 to march in the direction of the Coa for the purpose of being 
 cantoned in Villages near it, but on this side of the River : as 
 a temporary arrangement for the night we occupied a small 
 place called Bismula, where we still remain. It was intended 
 to have made the final arrangements this Morning, but during 
 the Night, Orders were received from Lord W. for our 
 Division to proceed to-morrow and occupy Villages about two 
 Leagues in front of this, where it is probable we shall remain 
 some time unless prevented by the Enemy. We shall have 
 the Light Division on our right, but nothing in our front; we 
 shall therefore be obliged to remain constantly on the alert 
 & exposed to perpetual Alarms. 
 
 It is considered a most fortunate circumstance that we 
 retreated from Fuente Guinaldo at the time we did. An Aid 
 du Camp of Lord W.'s who went in with a Flag of Truce on 
 the Morning of the 26th & was detained by them, but has 
 since been sent in, states that they had a most overwhelming 
 force, with which they meant to have attacked us the following 
 Morning ; while their Cavalry & Sharp shooters manoeuvred 
 in our front, our right & left were to have been turned by 
 twenty thousand Men on each flank. Our vast inferiority 
 would have rendered it impossible to have sustained such an 
 attack, and the consequences of a defeat under such circum- 
 stances would have been dreadful ; in all probability Portugal 
 would have been lost by it. It is scarcely to be wondered that 
 Marmont was much annoyed when he found that Lord W. 
 had eluded his plans, & he exclaimed " Voila encore la belle 
 etoile de Wellington." Our incapacity to resist the enemy on 
 this occasion arose from the absolute necessity Lord W. was 
 under of watching the different entrances into Portugal, by 
 which means it was impossible for him to concentrate a large 
 force on any one point.— It appears that at the time we
 
 112 
 
 [1811] commenced our march on the Morning of the 28th from above 
 [Oct.] Aldea de Ponte, expecting that the Enemy would follow us to 
 the Position near Soito, where Lord W. was determined to give 
 them Battle, & under circumstances that promised the most 
 happy issue, they had themselves gone off two hours before 
 quite satisfied with the reception they had met with in their 
 two attacks on the preceding day ; they returned thro' Fuente 
 Guinaldo with Colours flying. Bands playing etc. etc. assuring 
 the Inhabitants that they had near annihilated the British 
 Army. 
 
 It is pleasing to observe the decided antipathy to French 
 dominion that still pervades the Breasts of the Portugueze. 
 When we commenced our retreat the other Evening, & the 
 poor People were of course ignorant how far we might go, 
 they one and all packed up what little they had, & with the 
 utmost cheerfulness set off as last year for the Mountains. 
 Whilst this Spirit continues amongst them, it is impossible 
 they can be subdued. 
 
 5th. The 4th Division is cantoned in Villages extending 
 from Villa Formosa to Nava d'Aver, at which latter place we 
 are quartered ; Almeida & Fuente d'Onore likewise are a part 
 of the Cantonments of our Division ; Genl. Crawford with the 
 Light Division occupies different villages on our right ; the 
 Head Quarters of the Army are at Frenada, about a League 
 in our rear. There is no doubt that the French have all left 
 this Neighbourhood, but it is not yet satisfactorily 
 ascertained, whether the whole body has retired from Sala- 
 manca, or whether a large portion of them have taken the 
 route towards Gallicia for the purpose of destroying the 
 Spanish Army at present organising there. 
 
 The 97th Regiment, being almost entirely wasted by the 
 casualties of war, marched thro' this place yesterday on their 
 way to Lisbon to embark for England. It is impossible to 
 conceive a more happy set of Fellows than they appeared ; as 
 they marched by, they excited certain emotions in my Mind,
 
 113 
 
 which can only be conceived by those who have experienced 
 a long and painful exile from a beloved Country. 
 
 We are not in expectation of having anything to do for 
 several Months, but the idea is that the Enemy will make 
 every effort to concentrate such an overwhelming force by the 
 ensuing Spring, as shall render all resistance on our part 
 unavailing. Unquestionably the majority of the Officers of 
 this Army would hail any Circumstance that should compel us 
 to quit the Peninsula without absolute disgrace ; nor indeed 
 can it be wondered at, for the History of all former Wars 
 furnishes no parallel to the sufferings and privations endured 
 both by the Officers & Soldiers in Spain and Portugal. I trust 
 however that such will not be the case, but that the gallantry 
 and constancy of this People will ultimately be rewarded by 
 the entire expulsion of the Enemy. 
 
 This place is not less miserable than those we have lately 
 occupied ; in wet weather the very best houses are absolutely 
 incapable of affording protection ; the Equinoctials which 
 have now set in find access by a thousand different entrances. 
 We are four Leagues from Ciudad Rodrigo. 
 
 8th. We have not a word of the Enemy, and the 
 probability of there being nothing done for some time to come 
 may be considered fortunate for us, as the Army was never 
 before in such a state of inefficiency ; the Sick in our Regi- 
 ment alone amount to seven hundred & fifty, being exactly 
 one half ; the prevailing disease is Intermittent Fever, which, 
 tho' not so violent, is scarcely less prevalent than the 
 Walcheren Ague. 
 
 The Comet is still visible, & in greater briUiancy than 
 ever ; it has changed its situation, being at present over the 
 Tail of the Constellation of the Great Bear, instead of under 
 it, as it first appeared. 
 
 It seems that the affair of the a5th Ulto. was one of the 
 most gallant that has taken place in this Country. Lord W.
 
 114 
 
 [1811] has expressed his sense of it in terms of approbation quite 
 [Oct.] unusual to him. He was himself in the whole of it, and had 
 thus an opportunity of observing the gallantry he so much 
 admired. It is nothing less than miraculous how he escapes 
 on these occasions, as he constantly exposes himself in the 
 most unguarded manner ; his Staff both on that day & the 
 27th were in utmost alarm for his safety. The Regiments 
 who distinguished themselves on the 25th were the ist 
 German Hussars & nth Dragoons, and the 2nd Battn. 5th & 
 77th Regiments, and 21st Regt. of Portugueze Infantry. 
 
 13th. The Enemy are in considerable force at Placentia, 
 and it is conjectured that they will unite with the Army of the 
 South, and endeavour to make an irruption into the Alemtejo. 
 Should this be the case, we shall of course be compelled to retrace 
 the steps we so lately trod, and make the best of our way to 
 that part of the Country. The weather is at present fine, but, 
 as the wet season may be almost immediately expected, we 
 anticipate a march of such magnitude with no very agreeable 
 feelings. 
 
 Lord W.'s dispatch to the Regency states that the Force 
 we should have had opposed to us at Guinaldo, had we 
 waited their attack, was not less than Sixty thousand, among 
 which were six thousand Cavalry & twenty two Battalions of 
 the Imperial Guards ; their Artillery amounted to one hundred 
 and twenty five pieces. When reflecting on the small force 
 we had to oppose to this terrific one, it is impossible to con- 
 template without horror the consequences that might have 
 resulted, had we awaited the result of so unequal a conflict. 
 
 17th. Our Division yesterday changed its cantonments ; 
 we now occupy a line extending from Espeja on the right to 
 Barba del Puerco on the left ; the 40th are quartered in 
 Gallegos, distant only eight Miles from Ciudad Rodrigo. 
 The Enemy's Garrison there consists of a few Cavalry, and 
 about two thousand five hundred Infantry ; we are not there- 
 fore very apprehensive of a visit from them ; such a proceeding
 
 115 
 
 would be extremely hazardous. A Party of Don Julian's 
 Men succeeded the day before yesterday in taking the Gover- 
 nor & several other OfBcers Prisoners : they were on a riding 
 excursion in the Vicinity of the place, when these people 
 surprized them. They likewise took two hundred & sixty 
 head of Cattle, besides Sheep and Goats ; this loss will doubt- 
 less be very seriously felt by them. 
 
 26th. There was an idea Yesterday Evening that the 
 Enemy meditated an attack upon San Felices de Chico last 
 night for the purpose of possessing himself of a considerable 
 quantity of Bullocks that are in the vicinity of that place ; we 
 were in consequence ordered to keep on the alert, and the 
 Men were directed to sleep accoutred ; no alarm however took 
 place. 
 
 Nothing can possibly exceed the dullness and monotony 
 of our present mode of life. We know nothing whatever of 
 the enemy, but it is certain that they have no other force near 
 us than the Garrison of Ciudad Rodrigo. 
 
 [Nov.] Novr 3d. Information was received two or three Days 
 
 ago that the Enemy were again concentrating a Force, with 
 the object, as was supposed, of throwing in more Stores & 
 particularly Bullocks into Ciudad Rodrigo, in lieu of those 
 taken from them lately by Don Julian. In consequence, the 
 Night before last we were ordered to proceed as yesterday 
 Morning at daylight & unite with the Light Division at 
 El Bodon, a Village about four Leagues on our right, and 
 two from Ciudad Rodrigo, from whence we were to have gone 
 to another Village called Pastores with the intention of inter- 
 cepting the Convoy. On our arrival at El Bodon we found 
 that we were one day too late, as the Enemy had thrown in 
 the supplies and a new Governor at eight o'Clock the 
 preceding Night, and after resting a few hours the escort, 
 consisting of about five thousand men, had again quitted the 
 place. In this instance Lord W's information was very 
 incorrect ; had we been twenty four hours sooner something
 
 ii6 
 
 [1811] very dashing might have been done. We were directed (as 
 [Nov.] were the whole Army) to return to our Cantonments, which 
 we did this day. 
 
 Circumstances have turned out much more favourably in 
 the South under General Hill ; we have not all the particulars, 
 but it appears that ten days ago, Genl. H. surprized a Corps 
 of the enemy under Genl. Girard, and besides killing a great 
 many made a thousand Prisoners & took three pieces of 
 Cannon. The Prince of D'Aremberg & Genl. Brunn were 
 also taken as was Genl. Girard, but the latter got away 
 afterwards. The Duke D'Aremberg, brother to the Prince, 
 was among the killed. The brilliancy of this affair is consider- 
 ably enhanced by its having been performed almost without 
 bloodshed, our loss on the occasion being only thirty in killed 
 & wounded. We may expect to hear of many more 
 Prisoners being made, as, when the despatches came away, 
 the Cavalry were in pursuit, & the Enemy's force were in the 
 utmost disorder & completely dispersed. — General Hill is a 
 man so entirely beloved by every one, that the business having 
 been atchieved by him has afforded the most general and 
 lively satisfaction. 
 
 On our way to and from El Bodon, we passed over the 
 hill on which was placed the Portugueze Artillery on the 
 25th Sept. It was taken by the enemy and retaken by 
 a most gallant and successful charge made by the 5th 
 Regiment. The scene of action is marked by the unburied 
 Bones of the unfortunate French, who on that day closed 
 there their earthly career, victims of the Ambition of the 
 wretch who is yet permitted by Heaven to live as a scourge 
 to Europe. 
 
 15th. Since my last date no single circumstance 
 whatever has occurred worth relating; at Head Quarters 
 Chimnies are building in all the Houses, and everything 
 appears to indicate a long period of inactivity. Lord W. has 
 got out a pack of Fox Hounds from England, with which he
 
 117 
 
 amuses himself twice a week ; several Accidents have occurred 
 from severe falls, and amongst others the Prince of Orange 
 narrowly escaped with his life. 
 
 We are now a period of fifty two Days without News 
 from England, the longest time since the British Army have 
 been in the Peninsula ; the wind having got Northerly we are 
 anxiously expecting the Mail, when we shall be inundated 
 with Papers; by them we shall have, it is probable, the 
 investment of the Prince with the full powers of Royalty, and 
 also we may expect some insight into his intentions and policy 
 respecting these countries. 
 
 [Dec] Deer. i. On the 23d Ulto. an order was received to 
 
 march immediately in the direction of El Bodon. We halted 
 for the day at a small Village called Arrapiles, and resumed 
 our march the following Morning for El Bodon. On our 
 arrival there we found there was not room for us, & we were 
 directed to retrograde to Fuente Guinaldo. The whole Army 
 was in motion, and it was generally understood that a large 
 Convoy with a very strong escort, was on its way from 
 Salamanca to Ciudad Rodrigo. We remained at Guinaldo 
 till the 29th, when we were ordered to resume our former 
 Cantonments. The Divisions that had been a considerable 
 way in the rear, have fresh Cantonments assigned them, more 
 to the front. It does not appear certain whether another 
 convoy was on its way, or whether the large body of French 
 Troops from Salamanca that moved in the direction of Ciudad 
 Rodrigo was not a party intended to levy Contributions on 
 all the intermediate Towns. It seems that Lord Wellington 
 expects something will yet be done, as each Regiment has 
 orders to make itself thoroughly acquainted with all the Roads 
 in our Front. The weather is fine but excessively cold and 
 frosty. Our Regiment is still very ineffective from sickness; 
 the convalescence is very protracted, & the relapses are 
 frequent ; indeed the Corps has this Autumn received a shock 
 It will, 1 fear, be a very long time recovering.
 
 ii8 
 
 [1811] Our last accounts from England inform us that Parliament 
 
 [Dec] jg fuj-ther postponed. The policy of the Regent therefore as 
 far as regards the Peninsula remains yet to be discovered. It 
 , would seem almost impossible that the enormous expense 
 
 attending this contest can be long supported ; Money is 
 already so scarce that the Army is only paid up to the 24th 
 August, an arrear unprecedented in our Military History ; the 
 supplies also in consequence are not so good as formerly ; a 
 plenty might be obtained, but the People are tired of promissory 
 payment, & conceal their Corn, etc, etc. 
 
 nth. It is rumoured that the enemy purpose attempting 
 to introduce another convoy about the 20th, in the event of 
 which it is supposed we shall cross the Agueda at a Ford in 
 our front (if the Rains do not set in very much) instead of 
 going round by El Bodon. It is certain, notwithstanding 
 Marmont's boast of having thrown in supplies for a year, that 
 they are by no means well off for Provisions ; it will however 
 be impossible for them to relieve the place, unless they bring 
 a Force superior to ours, which at this Season of the year 
 they cannot do without the utmost annoyance to themselves. 
 
 The Affairs in the Peninsula fluctuate between hope & fear. 
 The Enemy as a prelude to the conquest at Valencia, have 
 taken the Fortress of Sagunto. They obtained it by Capitulation 
 after five ineffectual attempts to take it by Storm. On the 
 other hand, the Guerillas are daily increasing in numbers & 
 boldness. A most brilliant affair was lately performed by the 
 celebrated Partizan Mina ; with nine hundred men he attacked 
 eleven hundred of the enemy of which number three only 
 escaped who were not either killed or made Prisoners. 
 
 A singular hoax was a few days since played off upon the 
 good People of Lisbon. Advertisements were stuck up in all 
 parts of the Town, stating that a British Officer had invented 
 a pair of Cork Boots of a very singular construction, with 
 which he purposed on such a day at twelve o'Clock to walk 
 across the Tagus from Beleni to the opposite side of the River
 
 iig 
 
 and to return at one. Almost the whole Population of Lisbon 
 repaired to Belem to witness this extraordinary feat : the Tower 
 was reserved for the Regency, Marshall Beresford and the other 
 great characters with their Families ; it exhibited a Blaze if not 
 of Beauty, at least of Diamonds. After waiting several hours, 
 and no performer appearing, they perceived the hoax, & 
 departed to their respective homes, each laughing at the other. 
 
 28. Nothing particular has occurred since the last date. 
 We hear nothing of any intention on the part of the Enemy to 
 throw further supplies into Ciudad Rodrigo. The successes of 
 the Spaniards in the South have obliged Marmont to detach a 
 portion of his Army to reinforce Suchet in Valencia. In the 
 meantime Lord Wellington is building a Bridge on the 
 Agueda, which is already in a considerable state of forward- 
 ness. The Engineer Department have orders to provide every 
 requisite for an immediate Siege. Some think that Lord W. 
 taking advantage of Marmont's present weakness will certainly 
 attack Ciudad Rodrigo, notwithstanding the unfavourable 
 Season of the Year ; while others are of opinion the great 
 preparations making are nothing more than a demonstration, to 
 compel the French Chief to recall the Detachments he has 
 sent to the South. It is devoutly to be wished that the latter 
 may be the real object, as from the severity of the Weather 
 and the generally exhausted state of the Army the consequences 
 of taking the Field must be dreadful. 
 
 [1812] 
 
 rj^j, -1 Jan. 4. There is too much reason to fear that we shall 
 
 take the Field in the course of a very few days, notwithstanding 
 
 the weather is at present as bad as it can possibly be. 
 
 We march to-morrow Morning to San Felices El Chico, 
 a small village to our left, for the purpose of making room for 
 Head Quarters and the Guards who come here. This place 
 is a scene of the utmost hurry and bustle ; nothing to be seen 
 but Engineers, & all the Implements requisite for a Siege; 
 the Bridge will be completed the day after to-morrow,
 
 120 
 
 [1812] Doubtless Lord W. must have some extraordinary and 
 
 [Jan.] most urgent reasons for commencing the Siege at this 
 inclement season. The consequences to the health of the Army 
 I shudder to think of, it is scarcely too much to expect that 
 every one who has suffered from disease during the last six 
 months will not relapse. Should this be the case, the Troops 
 will be absolutely inefficient to any active operations in the 
 Spring. Every one appears astonished, and all contemplate 
 the preparations with a horror equal to their wonder. 
 
 5. The order for our March this day was last Night 
 countermanded ; but it is feared that it is only a suspension for 
 twenty four hours in consequence of the Bridge not being quite 
 ready. 
 
 1 2. We did not leave Gallegos till the 7th, when we came 
 to a small Village called Villa de Porco, where we still remain ; 
 on the 8th Ciudad Rodrigo was invested, & the Evening of the 
 same day a Redoubt of considerable importance to the final 
 success of the enterprise was attacked and carried in very fine 
 style by a Party of the Light Division under the orders of Col. 
 Colburne of the 52d Regt. On the same Night ground was 
 broke ; the Siege is carried on each Day by a Division of the 
 Army ; the Light, ist 3d & 4th are the whole employed. We 
 took the duty on the loth. During the twenty four hours our 
 casualties amounted to three killed & twelve wounded, which 
 was more than a half of the loss of the whole Division. There 
 appeared much despondency at the commencement of the busi- 
 ness on the part of the Engineers, though they seem since to think 
 better of it ; it is however rumoured that Marmont is assembling 
 a formidable force, and many are of opinion he may succeed 
 in raising the Siege. Our Batteries will not be ready to open 
 these two or three Days. I have not heard what time it is 
 calculated it will take to make a practicable breach, but it is 
 certain that the Battering Train is as fine a one as ever was 
 employed. — The weather is extremely cold, but very fine; 
 our Cantonment is twelve miles from Ciudad Rodrigo. —
 
 121 
 
 There can be no doubt that Lord W. will give the Enemy 
 Battle, unless the Enemy have a very superior force. Our 
 three remaining Divisions are moving up from the rear. From 
 the weakness of the Garrison in Ciudad one Brigade will be 
 sufficient to keep it in check. 
 
 21. On the 13th the Convent of Saint Antonio was taken 
 by a party of the German Legion ; it is situated near the River 
 on our right & annoyed our workmen considerably. The 
 following day our Division went again on duty, & the same 
 Evening the 40th were directed to storm the Convent of San 
 Francisco, where the Enemy had a Mortar and Gun, which alto- 
 gether prevented our going on with our Approaches. Consider- 
 able resistance was expected, but, on the Men appearing on the 
 walls of the Convent, the Enemy fired a Volley, and fled to the 
 Town with precipitation ; only three Men were wounded in this 
 affair. We (the 40th) remained in possession of the Convent 
 and Suburbs during the remainder of the Siege, instead of 
 returning to our Cantonments, as was the case with the 
 remainder of the Army. On the afternoon of the 14th our 
 Batteries opened. On the 15th ourfire was resumed with much 
 spirit, and with considerable effect. On the i6th there was so 
 impenetrable a fog, that scarcely a shot could be fired ; a new 
 Battery however was nearly completed for the purpose of 
 making a second breach ; on the Evening of the same day 
 Lord W. summoned the Town, which was answered by the 
 Governor in terms expressing his determination to perish in the 
 Ruins rather than surrender. The 17th proving a beautiful 
 Morning, our Batteries opened with great vivacity, and 
 continued firing till Evening,a[ which time considerable progress 
 was made in effecting the Breach. On the i8th the new Battery 
 commenced ; by sunset the first Breach was declared practicable 
 and much impression was made on the wall by the 
 New Battery. At Noon on the 19th both Breaches 
 were declared by the Engineers practicable, and every 
 arrangement was made in consequence to storm the
 
 122 
 
 [1812] Town the same Evening. For this duty, the Light and 3d 
 [Jan.] Divisions, and Genl. Pack's Portugueze Brigade were selected. 
 At eight o'clock the storming parties moved to the breaches 
 while others escaladed the walls in different places. The first 
 conflict was terrible. No description however, can do justice 
 to the grandeur of the Scenery ; the rapid fire of the Musketry, 
 the infinite number of Hand Grenades, and the explosion of 
 two Mines, presented a Coup d'Oeil beautifully awful. We 
 had soon the satisfaction of hearing our brave Fellows give the 
 cheer of Victory, a Victory however dearly purchased ; I have 
 not yet seen the amount of our loss, but it is said that the Siege 
 and assault together cost us not less than seven hundred men, 
 and a number of excellent Officers. Genl. MacKinnon was 
 killed by the explosion of one of the mines ; Genl. Crawfurd 
 Comg. the Light Division and Col. Colburne of the 52d, who 
 so gallantly stormed the redoubt on the first Evening, are both 
 dangerously wounded ; their deaths would indeed be a national 
 loss. The Governor had no right to stand the assault ; he had 
 not the means after the breaches were practicable of defending 
 himself against our superior numbers. By the laws of war, 
 we should have been justified in putting the whole Garrison to 
 death ; they were almost all however suffered to escape with 
 their lives ; this was at best but a milk and water humanity, 
 and in point of policy should be severely condemned : we may 
 live to lament the effects of it. 
 
 The unfortunate inhabitants, as is ever the case on such 
 occasions, were shamefully plundered by our Troops ; in fact, 
 no distinction was made by them between French and 
 Spaniards ; gallant as are our soldiers when opposed to an 
 Enemy, I fear they yield to no people on earth in their thirst 
 for plunder. 
 
 It is almost impossible sufficiently to appreciate the value 
 of this achievement ; its conception on the part of Lord W. at 
 this season of the Year, was most admirable, and perhaps 
 exceeds in brilliancy all his former exploits. In justice to
 
 123 
 
 every Department of the Army it must be stated that their 
 exertions were unparallelled. The Siege lasted only eleven 
 days, & the place was taken after five Days of open Trenches ; 
 whereas the French when they took it had been besieging it 
 for six weeks, and did not get possession of it till after seven- 
 teen Days of open Trenches. 
 
 Marmont is said to be advancing upon us with fifty 
 thousand Men, but it is probable that when he hears of the fall 
 of the place he will retrace his steps. In the meantime we 
 have resumed our Cantonments in Villa de Porco, where we 
 are likely to remain till it is ascertained whether the French 
 General will continue to advance or not. 
 
 26. Head Quarters were to have moved this Day to 
 Frenada, but in consequence of the enemy manifesting a 
 disposition to advance they remain for the present at Gallegos. 
 
 I was yesterday at Ciudad Rodrigo, and was much aston- 
 ished to observe the wonderful progress that has been already 
 made in repairing the Breaches ; the place is now as inaccess- 
 ible to an assault as it was the first Day we appeared before 
 it. While there I witnessed the funeral of Genl. Crawford, 
 who died of his wound the preceding Day ; it was a very 
 solemn and impressive ceremony, almost every Officer of 
 Rank in the Army being present ; he was buried close to the 
 small Breach, on the Spot where he received his wound ; he 
 is considered a real loss to the Service, tho' from the peculi- 
 arity of his disposition it is said he had attached but few 
 People to him. 
 
 30th. It would appear that the Enemy are gone back, 
 but Head Quarters still remain at Gallegos. The disposition 
 for a general change of Cantonments is made out, and will, 
 it is supposed, be carried into effect in a day or two. The 
 rainy Season has effectually set in, which will prevent the 
 Enemy from commencing active Operations in this quarter 
 for some time.
 
 124 
 
 [1812] The Battering Trains employed by the French in the 
 
 [Jan.] reduction of Ciudad Rodrigo have been found there with an 
 infinite quantity of Stores of every description. It seems to 
 have been the chief depot of the Enemy's Northern Army. 
 
 [Feb.] Feb. 5. We are detained in our present Cantonments 
 
 by the very heavy rains that have prevailed the last three 
 days ; in Consequence the small Rivers in our rear called the 
 Duas Casas & Turon are absolutely impassable ; should the 
 bad weather continue, it is difficult to conceive how the Army 
 will receive their supplies. 
 
 Head Quarters are returned to Frenada, & the repairs at 
 Ciudad Rodrigo go on with activity ; it is the intention of 
 Lord Wellington to make it much stronger than it ever was ; 
 for this purpose, the Fort of San Francisco taken on the 
 Evening of the 8th is to be considerably enlarged and a new 
 Fort is to be erected on an eminence in front of the old one on 
 a spot where it was intended our breaching Battery should 
 have been, had we not succeeded in breaching from our first 
 parallel. 
 
 gth. We have at length received our Route, and march 
 at daylight to-morrow morning ; our destination is Punhete on 
 the Tagus, where we shall be able to get our Clothing & every 
 article of equipment of which we stand very much in need. 
 The other part of the Brigade remains in this Neighbourhood 
 for the present. 
 
 20th. We marched according to orders on the loth Inst, 
 and reached Aldea de Ponte, five Leagues, the same day, 
 where we joined the Brigade in the ist Division under the 
 Command of Genl. Stopford, with whom it was intended we 
 should proceed. At Night however a counter Order was 
 received and we were directed to return the following day to 
 Villa Formosa & there wait for Orders : this arrangement 
 was in consequence of our Clothing having left Abrantes, & 
 being considerably advanced on its Route towards us. On
 
 125 
 
 the I2th we n arched to Villa de Ciervo, where we still 
 remain : it is a vt-y good Cantonment, and was Head Quarters 
 of the Division at die time we lay at Gallegos. We do not 
 expect however tc be long here. It is notorious that the 
 utmost exertions are making to commence again the Siege of 
 Badajos, and as it is a Fortress of such vast importance the 
 Enemy will doubtless make every effort to relieve it, and it 
 will of course be necessary for Lord Wellington to have his 
 whole Force in that Quarter. Unhappily we still continue 
 very Sickly, & it is to be feared that, whatever may be our 
 numerical strength, our physical force will be found most 
 lamentably short of it. Head Quarters still remain at Frenada, 
 tho' it is said they will remove in a very few Days to Castello 
 Branco. 
 [March] March 3d. We quitted Villa de Ciervo on the 27th 
 
 Ulto. having received a route to proceed to Castello Branco : 
 we reached Alamanda that day & halted there. On the 28th 
 we halted at Villa Mayor : 29th at Villa Boa ; & on the ist 
 Inst, we crossed the Coa at Sabugal & halted at a village 
 called St. Estevao : our march yesterday was a very long and 
 painful one, being five Leagues : we remained for the night at 
 Pedrogao, & this day came to St. Miguel, only two Leagues 
 & good road. On our arrival at Castello Branco, we shall 
 receive a fresh route : we know we are to go to Portalegre, & 
 it is expected we shall remain there a short time. There is 
 no doubt that Lord W. purposes besieging Badajos, tho' it is 
 probable there may be a previous general engagement, as the 
 Deserters who have come in within these few days concur in 
 stating that Marmont is marching his whole force Southward. 
 
 i2th. On the 4th we halted at a small village called 
 Escalhas de Cima, and the following day reached Castel 
 Branco, at which place we halted on the 6th. On the 7th we 
 remained at a most wretched place called Requisa, which 
 scarcely afforded Covering for one fourth of the Men. On the 
 8th we had a most fatiguing march to Nisa a distance of five
 
 126 
 
 [1812] Leagues & a half over the worst roads in P >rtugal, added to 
 [March] •\Yi^ich, we had the dragging of the Nine iPounders up two 
 most tremendous Hills ; the Men came in ? o exhausted in the 
 Evening, that we have had much accession to our Sick List 
 since in consequence. On the gth we halted at Alpalhao, our 
 third visit to this place : on the loth we reached Portalegre, 
 where we still remain, tho' it is probable we shall march in 
 the direction of Badajos in a day or two. Head Quarters left 
 this place yesterday Morning for Elvas, where there is to be 
 this day a grand installation, Genls. Hill & Graham being to 
 be made Knights of the Bath. Everything is said to be ready 
 for the Siege, & the weather continues remarkably fine. 
 
 The probability of a general Action increases. The 
 advanced Guard of the enemy is said to have reached Merida ; 
 a few days therefore will in all probability develop great 
 
 events. 
 
 22d. On the 14th we received a sudden Order to quit 
 Portalegre & proceed in the direction of Elvas ; we reached 
 Monforte, a clean and pretty Town that day, and on the 
 following day arrived at Elvas. There we found the dispositions 
 of the Army were as follows ; the ist, 2nd, 6th, & 7th 
 Divisions, with almost the whole of the Cavalry and Horse 
 Artillery, formed the covering Army, and were to proceed 
 upon Villa Franca near Zafra (at which place the enemy had 
 a Corps), by two separate Routes under the orders of 
 Sir Thos. Graham & Sir Rowland Hill ; the Light 3d & 4th 
 Divisions formed the besieging Army. The whole moved on 
 the following morning (i6th). On the same day Badajos was 
 invested, & ground was broke on the Evening of the 17th. 
 A vast deal of work has been since done, but no Guns have 
 as yet been placed in the Batteries, neither is it known when 
 our Fire will open. On the i8th the enemy made a Sortie, 
 but were almost immediately driven in without our works 
 sustaining the smallest injury ; the fire was very sharp & our 
 loss amounted to about twenty killed & a hundred wounded ;
 
 127 
 
 amongst the latter was Col. Fletcher, the Chief Engineer ; 
 fortunately however it has not altogether deprived the Army 
 of his valuable Services. The loss of the Enemy is said to 
 have been double. 
 
 On the very day that we invested the place the wind 
 shifted to the S.W. It has rained ever since almost without 
 intermission. Lord W. and the whole of Headquarters are 
 encamped. 
 
 We know not whether the enemy can concentrate in 
 sufficient force to compel us to raise the siege : the Corps they 
 had at Zafra retired on the approach of Genls. Graham & 
 Hill. 
 
 It is stated that the Engineers calculate that it will require 
 three weeks from this time to reduce the place, but it is 
 generally supposed that their real opinion is it will be effected 
 in a fortnight. 
 
 25th. The wind changed yesterday Evening to the 
 Northward, and the weather now promises to be fine. For 
 seven days it was dreadful, the rains being so excessively 
 heavy, that it became at length extremely disheartening. 
 
 Our Batteries opened this day at ten o'Clock : it is said 
 that Fort Piccolini, a work of considerable importance, will 
 be stormed to-night ; it is highly essential to the success of 
 our enterprise that it should be in our possession. 
 
 26th. At eight o'clock last Night the Fort was stormed 
 in a Stile of unexampled Gallantry by the Covering Parties of 
 the 3d Division. Independent of its strength, they had a 
 variety of obstacles to overcome, & the resistance made by the 
 enemy was very great. They succeeded however in surmoun- 
 ting all the difficulties. The French, being reinforced from 
 the Town, attempted to retake the place, but were repulsed 
 with great slaughter. The Fire from the Enemy's Batteries 
 during the business exceeded anything I ever witnessed. Our 
 loss in this important Conquest was about an hundred & fifty ;
 
 128 
 
 [1812] that of the Enemy was certainly more than double. Their 
 [March] JQgg ^^g principally in killed ; several Officers'& about eighty 
 Men were made Prisoners. 
 
 The weather continues fine, & everything appears to 
 augur a successful issue to the Sie^e. 
 
 30th. The first breaching battery opened this Morning, 
 and the remainder will commence their fire to-morrow ; it is 
 confidently expected that, the place will fall by the 4th, tho' it 
 is generally apprehended that it must be taken by Storm ; 
 should this be the case it is scarcely to be conceived the 
 Enemy will come off so well as they did at Ciudad Rodrigo. 
 
 It is known that a large French force is advancing to the 
 relief of the Garrison, but it is supposed that they cannot 
 possibly arrive here before the loth. 
 
 [Apr.] Apl. 2. The Breach is in a considerable state of forward- 
 
 ness, and appears to be fifty or sixty yards wide ; the wall was 
 found exceedingly tough, and it is only this Afternoon that 
 they have well got to the Earth ; eighteen Guns from two 
 Batteries are constantly playing upon' it, & it is hoped that on 
 the day after to-morrow it will be perfectly practicable. 
 Besides the great Breach a second is making from an Eight 
 Gun Battery, the effect of which is I believe still more 
 advanced than the other. The Fire from the Enemy is very 
 great ; they have brought between thirty & forty guns to bear 
 upon our works ; the Batteries of course are much injured by 
 them, but the Casualties amongst the Men are very few. 
 
 A very desperate resistance is apprehended at the Storm- 
 ing, It is impossible to anticipate the carnage that must 
 ensue without feelings of the utmost horror ; no idea is enter- 
 tained of a Capitulation, indeed it is one of the fundamental 
 rules of the Code Napoleon, that any Governor giving up a 
 Fortress without standing the assault shall be shot. 
 
 We have heard nothing further respecting the advance of 
 Soult. Genls. Graham & Hill have with them thirty thousand
 
 i2g 
 
 men, which probably may be sufficient to keep him in check. 
 It is reported that Marmont is making preparations for the 
 Siege of Rodrigo, but such a rumour appears too absurd to be 
 entitled to any credit. 
 
 5th. Both Breaches were considered practicable last 
 Night, and it was generally apprehended that the Storm 
 would take place. There is no doubt that the assault will be 
 made either this Evening or before daylight to-morrow 
 Morning. Everything is ready. The Town has not been 
 summoned, and it is supposed will not ; it is said that Lord 
 Wellington is unwilling to subject himself to an insolent reply. 
 
 The assault will be made by the three Divisions that 
 have been employed during the Siege ; viz. the Light, 3rd, & 
 4th ; the Light Divn. are to storm the small breach, the 4th 
 the large One and the 3rd are to Escalade the Castle walls. 
 
 All idea or probability of an early visit from Soult or 
 Marmont appears at an end ; the former it is said left Seville 
 with his Army in this direction, but again retrograded after 
 two days March. Marmont is reported to have actually 
 invested Rodrigo ; he is without heavy Artillery to commence 
 a regular Siege, but is supposed to found his hopes of again 
 getting possession of the place from its not being provisioned 
 sufficiently ; should this actually be the case, it would seem 
 absolutely necessary that we should again go to the North for 
 the purpose of raising the Blockade. 
 
 loth. The period that has elapsed since the last date has 
 been a truly eventful one, and will certainly long hold a place 
 in the recollection of those who have witnessed it and yet 
 survive. The assault did not take place on the night of the 
 5th, as was fully expected. Orders for the Attack were 
 actually issued when about five in the Evening they were 
 countermanded. A third Breach was determined upon, which 
 was effected in the course of the following Day ; the Attack 
 was then ordered to take place at ten o'clock the same Night
 
 130 
 
 [1812] (6th). One Breach was given to the Light Division, two to 
 [Apr.] j.j^g ^j-jj -pjjg jrd were ordered to scale the Walls of the 
 Castle, and a Brigade of the 5th to escalade the walls of the 
 Town near the Olivenza Gate. At the appointed hour the 
 Troops moved to their respective Posts, when a scene of 
 horror at once dreadful and sublime presented itself. There 
 was no Moon but the stars afforded just sufficient light to 
 enable the Men to find their respective destinations. On their 
 being discovered by the Enemy, a Fire so tremendous opened on 
 them, that the oldest Military Men present declare that they 
 never witnessed anything that could be at all compared to it. 
 The explosions from the several Mines the Enemy had prepared 
 were indescribably awful, but certainly furnished a Coup d'Oeil 
 such as I never expect or indeed wish again to witness. 
 The access to the Breach was most difficult from the Counter- 
 carp not having been blown in ; it was necessary to descend 
 into the Ditch by means of Ladders ; on reaching it, it was 
 found full of water, and in some places it was so deep that the 
 Men were drowned in it ; on gaining the summit of the Breach, 
 obstacles the most insurmountable presented themselves ; 
 Chevaux de frise made of swords were placed the whole length 
 in the rear of the Breach, and further in the Rear Trenches 
 upon Trenches were cut ; repeated attempts were made to get 
 in but our People were as constantly repelled, with the most 
 horrible loss. The Escalades were at length successful, which 
 so much attracted the Enemy's attention from the Breaches, 
 that the men were enabled to get in, and the Garrison was 
 surrounded. In the meantime the Governor (Philippon) had 
 fled to St. Christoval, but finding it impossible to make any 
 effectual resistance he surrendered at discretion. The usual 
 humanity of the English, was eminently displayed on this 
 occasion, not a French Soldier was put to the sword, tho' 
 according to the laws of war we should have been justified in 
 putting every Soul to Death. It was about one o'Clock on 
 the Morning'of the 7th when our People got possession of the 
 place. For the space of three hours, they had been exposed
 
 131 
 
 to the destructive fire I have before stated ; our loss was in 
 consequence most melancholy, not less I believe than three 
 thousand eight hundred killed & wounded besides at least two 
 hundred and fifty Officers ; in my Regiment, twenty four 
 Officers marched off from the Camp Ground, of which number 
 only six escaped. Notwithstanding the extent of our loss, the 
 taking of Badajos is considered as one of the most important 
 events of the Peninsula ; it is of infinite consequence to the 
 Spaniards, and it insures the safety of Portugal. 
 
 15th. On the 1 2th we marched from our encampment, and 
 passing by Badajos halted at Campo Mayor. The following 
 Day we bivouacked in the Neighbourhood of Arronches, and 
 yesterday reached Portalegre. This morning we came to a 
 most comfortable quarter called Castel de Vida, about two 
 Leagues distant from Portalegre. We have no Orders as yet 
 to continue our March to-morrow, but it is probable they will 
 arrive in the course of the Evening, and that Nisa will be our 
 next halting place ; the following day we expect to cross the 
 Tagus. Every One is horrified at the idea of again going to 
 the North, but it is rendered necessary by the Enemy taking 
 advantage of our absence at the Siege of Badajos, & making 
 incursions into Portugal in considerable force ; they entered 
 Castel Branco, and, it is said, came as far as Villa Velha. It 
 is to be feared we shall be kept continually in hot water 
 between the two Fortresses of Badajos & Rodrigo : so much 
 marching is disheartening in the extreme. The Army is far 
 from healthy or rather that part of it employed in the late 
 Siege ; the dreadful weather, aided by the horrid intemperance 
 that took place after the assault, is making a melancholy 
 ravage amongst the men ; till drunkenness becomes a punish- 
 able crime a British Army in the Peninsula never can be 
 properly effective. 
 
 Since quitting Badajos we have received Accts. of an 
 Affair between a Brigade of our Cavalry, and some Cavalry 
 of the Enemy in which the latter were completely routed with
 
 132 
 
 [1812] the loss of seven or eight hundred in killed, wounded, and 
 [Apr.] prisoners ; our loss is not yet stated, but it is said to be 
 comparatively very trifling. 
 
 i8th. We remained the i6th at Castel de Vida, & 
 yesterday marched to a most miserable Village called Povoa 
 das Meadas, where we still are. Tomorrow we cross the 
 Tagus at Villa Velha, and proceed to Sarnadas, a wretched 
 place about two Leagues on this side of Castel Branco. Head 
 Quarters reached the latter place yesterday. We are entirely 
 ignorant as to what is going on Northward, but from the 
 slowing of our Movement it would not appear that Lord W. 
 is under much apprehension respecting Almeida or Ciudad 
 Rodrigo. 
 
 2ist. We quitted Povoa on the 19th, & crossing the 
 Tagus halted at Villa Velha. Yesterday we reached 
 Castel Branco, and this day marched to Escalhas de Cima. 
 It is understood that Marmont has about twenty five thousand 
 Infantry, & two thousand Cavalry, a force altogether in- 
 adequate to make a stand against the number Lord W. can 
 bring against him ; Ciudad Rodrigo & Almeida are still in a 
 state of Blockade, but the Governor of the former is said to 
 have written to Lord W. stating his ability to hold out till the 
 I St of the month; it is supposed that as soon as a sufficient 
 Convoy of Stores & Provisions shall be thrown into the place, 
 we shall again go Southward. 
 
 The Enemy in their late incursion to this part of the 
 country found the same determined hostiUty that they before 
 experienced ; not an individual remained in their Houses ; 
 everything that could possibly be serviceable to the French, 
 that they could not carry away, they destroyed. Surely such 
 a People never can be subdued ; such unexampled patriotism 
 must present a barrier more insurmountable than a wall of 
 Adamant, to the iniquitous designs of their unprincipled 
 Invaders.
 
 133 
 
 25 — On the 22d we halted at a small village called 
 Aldea da Santa Margaritta, and on the 23d proceeded to 
 Val de Lobo or the Valley of Wolves, a Village so called 
 from the number of those Animals found in its Neighbourhood ; 
 yesterday we came to another wretched place called 
 Quinta de Saint Bartholomew, and to our astonishment 
 remain here to-day, nor have we any Orders to proceed 
 further to-morrow. Head Quarters were yesterday at Alfayates, 
 but we know nothing of them to-day ; we are also entirely 
 ignorant as to the movements of the Enemy : it is said, that 
 Don Carlos has succeeded in destroying the Bridges over the 
 Agueda, and that they cannot in consequence effect their 
 retreat; this intelligence is to be doubted, as the Coa which 
 is close to us here is perfectly fordable. 
 
 The Enemy have been in all the Villages thro' which we 
 have lately passed, and it is impossible to describe the un- 
 profitable mischief & devastation they have everywhere 
 committed; the misery of the Inhabitants beggars description, 
 indeed I cannot conceive how they will be able to support 
 life. 
 
 [May] May 2d — On the 26th we quitted Quinta San Bartholeme w, 
 
 which is close to Sabugal, & instead of crossing the Coa, as 
 we expected, received a route to proceed in the direction of 
 the Douro. The Enemy have entirely abandoned the 
 Neighbourhood of Ciudad Rodrigo. On the 26th we halted 
 at Parades, 27th, Lamegal, 28th, Cerejo ; 29th Marialva ; 30th 
 Rehnadas, and yesterday arrived at our destination San Joao 
 de Pesqueira, which is a small town about a league from the 
 Douro. Here it is probable we shall remain for some time 
 to recruit. The 3d & 5th Divisions are also in this Neighbour- 
 hood. Genl. Graham with the ist 6th & yth Divisions has 
 marched again Southward, and Lord Wellington with the 
 Light Division & 2 Regiments of Cavalry remained when we 
 last heard in the Vicinity of Rodrigo.
 
 134 
 
 [1812] We are much disappointed in this place, having heard it 
 
 [May] ^y^g ^jj excellent Cantonment, and furnishing everything in 
 
 abundance ; whereas it barely affords accommodation for two 
 
 weak Regiments, and there is scarcely any single thing to be 
 
 procured with the exception of wine. 
 
 1 2th. We remain still at San Joao de Pesqueira, nor is 
 it probable that there will be any Movement in the Army till 
 Rodrigo & Almeida are well provisioned. Head Quarters are 
 yet at Guinaldo. Lord W. wrote to Genl. Pakenham who is 
 ill in Lisbon, that the Spaniards had deceived him in 
 not provisioning the former place according to promise, by 
 which means he had been compelled to remove his Army 
 Northward, and had in consequence lost the finest sport that 
 ever any Troops had in view. As war has undoubtedly ere 
 this taken place between France & Russia, it is probable that 
 there will be a very active Campaign in this Country, & the 
 South certainly would appear as the most likely part for the 
 Scene of Action : it is generally expected therefore that we 
 shall again move in that direction in the course of a very short 
 time. 
 
 26th. Since my last date I have visited Oporto, attracted 
 by the double motive of Curiosity, and the necessity of fitting 
 myself out afresh with almost everything. I left this place 
 (San Joao de Pesqueria) on the i6th, & returned yesterday, 
 highly gratified by my Expedition. The distance from hence 
 is about eighty miles. I was accompanied by a Friend ; we 
 went by Water, but owing to unfavorable Winds we did not 
 reach Oporto till the afternoon of the i8th. Our Horses & 
 Servants went by Land ; the Navigation of the Douro is at 
 all times somewhat perilous, and in the Winter is absolutely 
 impracticable from the Rapidity of the current, & the number 
 of concealed Rocks. The Scenery on some parts of the River 
 is fine beyond all description ; never before did I so much 
 regret not being a Draughtsman. Oporto itself is a very 
 large & populous Town, being the second in Portugal : it is
 
 135 
 
 most beautifully situated, and in point of comfort is superior 
 to any I ever saw out of England ; indeed it resembles an 
 English Town more than I could have possibly expected. It 
 is infinitely cleaner than Lisbon, and superior to it in every 
 respect ; like Lisbon however it abounds in Churches & 
 Convents, and the number of Monks parading the Streets is 
 absolutely disgusting. The Theatre is a very elegant one, but 
 the Performers are wretched. I had the gratification of 
 seeing that part of the Douro, which was the scene of Lord 
 W.'s brilliant exploit in April 1809, when Soult fled with such 
 precipitation before him. The Inhabitants are excessively 
 loyal, & his Lordship is little less than a Divinity in their 
 estimation. 
 
 We quitted Oporto on the afternoon of the 22d, and rode 
 to Penafiel, a large Town distant six Leagues ; here we found 
 a good hotel, kept by a Black. On the 23d we rode to 
 Amaranthe, four leagues ; from this place the Portuguese 
 General Silveira takes his Title of Count. It is impossible 
 that any Situation can be more truly beautiful, but the French 
 having met with an unusual resistance from the Portugueze 
 Militia, headed by Sylveira about three years since, on gaining 
 possession of the Town they entirely destroyed it, with the 
 exception of a large Convent of the Dominican Order. At 
 this Convent we were entertained by the Monks, & though 
 there was the appearance of Hospitality, it was that niggardly 
 sort of hospitality, that leaves no impression of gratitude on 
 the Mind. On the 24th we rode seven Leagues to a Village 
 about six Leagues from hence, where we were comfortably 
 entertained in the house of a Fidalgo. The Fidalgos in 
 Portugal are a set of superior Gentry, and have in general 
 more pride than the Nobility ; the word Fidalgo, is derived 
 from Filho de Algo, which in English may be literally trans- 
 lated Son of Somebody. Yesterday we rejoined our Regiment 
 and find there is a general expectation of an early move, 
 though various opinions as to its direction ; some thinking we
 
 136 
 
 [1812] shall march immediately Southward, while others conceive 
 [May] ^^g shall in the first instance make a dash at Salamanca, & 
 then proceed South by the way of Placentia. 
 
 [Jcne] June 3d. We still remain at Pesqueira ; English Papers 
 
 to the nth Ulto. have been received, which do not furnish 
 anything very interesting, but a private letter from London of 
 the 1 2th mentions the assassination of Mr. Percival in the 
 Lobby of the House of Commons the preceding Evening. 
 There is something so truly dreadful in this proceeding, that 
 the . reflection on it I find attended with an horror I never 
 before experienced. Independent of the great loss I conceive 
 the Nation to have sustained by their deprivation of Mr. P.'s 
 talents & integrity, I fear this diabolical act is the precursor 
 of much woe & bloodshed to England : the Country appears 
 ripe for mischief, & I have a melancholy presage that she is 
 about to bleed at every pore. It is impossible not to consider this 
 most foul murder as a visitation from Heaven on a guilty land ; 
 England, blessed beyond other Nations by her insular situa- 
 tion, and consequently a stranger to the horrors of war, is at 
 length I fear about to become a prey to all the accumulated 
 woes of internal discord. The long-suffering of the Almighty, 
 so visibly displayed in her exemption from those miseries, that 
 for so many years have afflicted Continental Europe, has 
 never been remembered by her with a gratitude proportionate 
 to mercies so distinguished ; on the contrary these blessings 
 of Heaven have been received with the same unthankfulness 
 as they were by the Israelites of old, and to us may justly be 
 applied the passage of the Prophet, " Shall I not visit for these 
 things, saith the Lord, and shall not my soul be avenged on 
 such a Nation as this ? " That England, is about to suffer 
 for her manifold iniquities, I can have no doubt, but I indulge 
 the hope that the Mercy of Heaven may be yet extended to 
 her, from the consolatory reflection that she still retains 
 within her Bosom her " Seven thousand, who have not yet 
 bowed the Knee to Baal."
 
 137 
 
 Great exertions are making to complete a Depot forming 
 on the Douro not far from Almeida ; it is generally supposed 
 we shall then march, and that the operations of the Army will 
 be carried on with a degree of activity unparallelled in the 
 Annals of Military History ; tho' it is to be feared the lamen- 
 ted death of Mr. Percival, by introducing a new set of Men 
 into the Cabinet, (& consequently new Measures) may tend to 
 paralyze the exertions of Lord Wellington. For my own part 
 I indulge the hope that the new Administration will be formed 
 by Lord Wellesly, in which case the war in this Country may 
 be expected to be carried on with ever increased vigour. 
 
 Genl. Hill it seems has been again successful, taking the 
 Bridge at Almaraz by a Coup de Main, with loss to the Enemy 
 of upwards of five hundred men and a very large depot of 
 Stores etc. etc. Our loss on this occasion is said to be about 
 one hundred in killed & wounded. 
 
 6th. On the Evening of the 3rd a Route was received, 
 directing us to quit San Joao de Pesqueira on the 5th Inst. & 
 march to a large wood near Espeja, & about three Leagues 
 from Ciudad Rodrigo. We reached Rehnadas yesterday, & 
 were to have proceeded on our March this day, for which 
 purpose we fell in at 4 o'Clock this morning : just as we were 
 about to set off, an Order was received to remain at Rehnadas 
 to-day, & to go on according to route to-morrow. This delay 
 is said [to] be occasioned by the Road we are to go not being 
 clear of another Division of the Army. 
 
 We are ignorant of the object of our march to Espeja, 
 but we hear that the whole Army is to rendezvous there, with 
 the exception of the 2d Division ; if this be the case there can 
 be no doubt that we are going against Salamanca ; the Enemy 
 are said to have collected immense Magazines in that place. 
 
 On the 7th we quitted Rehnadas and halted at a small 
 Village called Cotinos. On the 8th we reached Pinhel, formerly 
 a very neat Town but at present bearing the most deplorable
 
 138 
 
 [18121 marks of French devastation ; it is a Bishop's See, but his 
 [June] Excellency's House is entirely devasted. On the gth we 
 marched to Aldea de Bispa ; & the morning of the loth 
 proceeded according to route in the direction of Espeja. On 
 reaching Alamada, we received an order to bivouack in the 
 wood near that place ; it was generally understood the Division 
 would be viewed by Lord W. on this day, but yesterday 
 evening we were directed to proceed by Gallegos, & cross the 
 river Agueda at the Bridge of Marialva. We are encamped 
 about a league from Ciudad Rodrigo & it appears to be 
 generally understood we shall march immediately upon 
 Salamanca without any delay whatever. 
 
 14th. On the i2th we halted, & yesterday crossed the 
 Agueda at Ciudad Rodrigo & proceeded three Leagues beyond 
 that place on the Salamanca road ; we bivouacked in a wood 
 near a small Village called Santispiritus. This day we have 
 had a march of four Leagues and are in bivouack in a beauti- 
 ful wood near San Munoz; we are at present nine Leagues 
 from Salamanca. It is confidently reported the Enemy have 
 quitted the place, which may make a difference in our move- 
 ments ; should they be Northward it would appear hazardous 
 to follow them, as Lisbon would then be open to the incursions 
 of Soult & Suchet. 
 
 The weather is so intensely hot, that it is scarcely 
 supportable. 
 
 15. We marched to-day three leagues thro' a beautiful 
 Country and are encamped in the Neighbourhood of a Village 
 called Cojos de Robliza. It does not appear that the enemy 
 have as yet quitted Salamanca, tho' from several movements 
 there is reason to believe they do not purpose making a stand 
 there. 
 
 Our Army moves in three Columns. The centre 
 comprised of the 4th, 5th, & Light Divisions, with the ist 
 Hussars, 12th & i6th Dragoons, and heavy German Brigade,
 
 139 
 
 is more immediately under the command of Lord Wellington 
 in Person ; the right, consisting of the ist, 6th, & 7th Divisions, 
 with the 14th Dragoons, is commanded by Sir Thos. Graham ; 
 & the left, of the 3rd Division, Genl Pack's & Bradford's 
 Portugueze Brigades, with the nth Light Dragoons & Genl. 
 Le Marchant's Heavy Brigade, are under the command of 
 Genl. Picton. Lord W. is gone to reconnoitre as near as 
 possible ; on his return it is probable the orders that will be 
 then issued will give us some insight into his intentions. 
 
 16. We are in bivouack about a League & a half from 
 Salamanca. There has been some skirmishing to-day in 
 which we lost three Officers, & a few men wounded. Marmont 
 is supposed to be still there, with about a thousand Cavalry 
 and five thousand Infantry, but it is probable they will go 
 off to-night, leaving a Garrison in two very strongly fortified 
 Convents, which it is thought may give us some trouble. By 
 a variety of intercepted Letters it appears that they have an 
 intrenched camp, a short distance on this side of Valladolid, 
 where they will be able to concentrate near forty thousand 
 men, & where they purpose making a stand. Our force is 
 about the same, added to which we are to be joined by twenty 
 thousand Spaniards under Castanos. There is said to be little 
 danger from Soult & Suchet, Lord W. having combined a 
 plan of operations in the South, that will keep them fully 
 employed. 
 
 26th. The Enemy went off on the night of the i6th, 
 leaving seven or eight hundred men in the Convent of [San 
 Vincente] which is fortified by several strong works. On the 
 Morning of the 17th the whole Army moved to their front; 
 Genl. Graham's & Picton's Columns crossed the Tormes by 
 two Fords one above & the other below the River [? Town] ; 
 the 6th Division entered the Town, & the 4th & 5th Divisions 
 bivouacked in a wood near the Ford where Genl. Picton's 
 Column crossed. As the Convent the enemy possessed 
 commanded the Bridge, without which Lord W. could not
 
 140 
 
 [1812] move forward his Army with safety, preparations were 
 [June] immediately made for commencing the Siege of it. Ground was 
 broke that Night as near as possible ; on the 19th our Batteries 
 opened, but from a scarcity of Ammunition no great 
 impression was made on the Works ; the Fire from the enemy 
 was excessively galling and our loss considerable, particularly 
 in Artillery. On the morning of the 20th we received a 
 sudden Order to cross the River & advance, the Enemy 
 having appeared in force about three Leagues distant. 
 Lord W. took up an extremely advantageous position within 
 a League of the Town, & in the Afternoon the two Armies 
 were in sight of each other ; some skirmishing took place. A 
 portion of the 6th Division remained in the Town, but the 
 Siege was for a time converted into a Blockade. On the 21st 
 there was a general expectation that we should be attacked, 
 but the day passed with a little skirmishing only ; in the 
 Afternoon the Enemy were observed to receive considerable 
 reinforcements. On the 22d at Day Break they were found 
 to have possession of a Hill which threatened our right ; they 
 were in consequence attacked and driven from it by the 7th 
 Division, with the loss of about 70 Men on our side : Marshal 
 Marmont was observed extremely busy the whole day in 
 reconnoitring. At Daylight on the 23d they were not to be 
 seen, and it appeared they went off about 11 o'Clock the 
 preceding Night. They did not retrograde much, but brought 
 up on some Hills about a League distant. The remainder of 
 the 6th Division were again ordered into town, and in the 
 Afternoon our Batteries recommenced firing. In the Evening 
 the Enemy were observed crossing Troops over the River ; in 
 consequence of which Genl. Graham crossed likewise. At 
 night the Enemy's works in Town were twice attempted to 
 be stormed, but both attacks failed, as is said thro' the short- 
 ness of the ladders ; on this occasion Genl. Bowes was killed, 
 and our total loss was several Officers, and about 130 men. 
 On the 24th the whole Army moved to its right, the Enemy 
 having made a parallel movement to their left : they had
 
 141 
 
 about 10,000 men across the river, to which Force Lord W. 
 opposed some Cavalry & the ist Division ; a slight skirmishing 
 only took place ; in the afternoon the Enemy again retired, 
 and are brought up a League from us, where they still remain. 
 There is no doubt they are anxious to relieve the Garrison in 
 Town and are manoeuvring for that purpose. Their force is 
 supposed to be nearly equal to ours, but on these terms they 
 do not appear willing to attack. It is generally understood 
 they will be joined to-morrow by Bonnet from the Asturias, 
 which will probably give them a numerical superiority over 
 us of nearly eight or ten thousand men. A general confidence 
 however prevails that the result will be glorious to the allied 
 Arms, should there be a general conflict. Of the Spanish 
 Northern Army under Castafios we have a thousand contra- 
 dictory reports, it is natural to suppose however, they are 
 somehow or other acting in concert with us. — -Accounts from 
 the South state that on the 20th & 21st Genl. Hill & Soult 
 were drawn up opposite to each other at Albuhera without 
 coming to action ; it is reported that General Hill has since 
 retired upon Portalegre, but this requires confirmation. 
 
 Salamanca is a very delightful Town, but has suffered con- 
 siderably from French protection. The Colleges are all 
 destroyed. The Cathedral is an exquisite structure ; it has 
 nothing gaudy in its interior but the Architecture is superbly 
 magnificent ; it is impossible sufficiently to admire it and as 
 impossible to convey by the Pen any adequate idea of its beauty ; 
 the Enemy have thrown a few shells into it, but it is hitherto 
 little injured. — That part of the Inhabitants in the French 
 Interest quitted the Town with the Enemy ; they are said to 
 comprise about one hundred & twenty five families. Those who 
 remain appear extremely loyal, and hailed the entrance of British 
 Troops into their city with the loudest acclamations There 
 is at present however a great despondency among them from 
 the circumstance of the enemy hovering in the Neighbourhood, 
 and the consequent possibility that they may again take
 
 142 
 
 [1812] possession of the Town. The present period is certainly an 
 [June] eventful one ; on the issue of the next few days in all prob- 
 ability depends the question, whether Spain shall or shall not 
 be free. 
 
 30th. The firing continued against the Fort all day of 
 the 26th with considerable effect ; in the evening red hot Shot 
 were thrown which succeeded in setting Fire to the Convent 
 which however was got under ; at Night a storming party fell 
 in, and were on the point of moving off, when they were 
 countermanded. On the Morning of the 27th the Convent 
 was again set on fire ; it burned with considerable violence and 
 evidently could not be subdued ; the breach in the works was 
 also considered practicable. Under these circumstances, 
 Lord W. summoned the Enemy, who refused to surrender ; 
 the storming party which was previously ready immediately 
 advanced, when the Enemy held out a white Flag, & the several 
 Forts were taken possession of without resistance ; the number 
 of Prisoners made was between six & seven hundred. The 
 Town was instantly in a tumult of joy, & were it not for the 
 protection afforded by the British, the French would certainly 
 have fallen Victims to the Ferocity of the Lower Orders of the 
 Inhabitants. The 28th was completely a Gala Day, and the 
 satisfaction of the People was in no small degree enhanced by 
 the circumstance of the Enemy having gone off the preceding 
 night. The Cathedral was magnificently decorated, & Te Deum 
 performed at which Lord W. attended in state ; at night the 
 Town was illuminated. The Square in Salamanca is one of 
 the handsomest in Europe, and the lights on this occasion 
 being extremely numerous, rendered it uncommonly beautiful. 
 
 Yesterday Morning the whole Army marched, and this day 
 continued their route ; we are at present six Leagues from 
 Salamanca, but are altogether ignorant what is our destination. 
 Valladolid is generally supposed to be the place we are going 
 to, but it is not improbable the enemy will avail themselves of 
 the extremely strong position of Toro, which may give us some
 
 143 
 
 trouble to force. The Country we pass through is highly 
 fertile, but the Corn is everywhere lamentably destroyed. The 
 Villages have been systematically plundered by the Enemy, 
 the Churches destroyed, and vast numbers of Houses burnt to 
 the ground ; indeed the same scenes present themselves, that 
 we witnessed in Portugal on the retreat of Massena. It would 
 really appear from these horrible devastations that they have 
 little hope or expectation of speedily returning to this part of the 
 Country. Official accounts from the South state that Soult has 
 retired, being unwilling to risk an action with the Force under 
 General Hill. 
 
 [Joly] July 3d. We continued our route towards Valladolid 
 
 yesterday and the preceding day. We halted yesterday near 
 a considerable Town called Medina del Campo, where we still 
 remain. Of the cause of the halt we are entirely ignorant. 
 There was some skirmishing yesterday, in which the Enemy 
 lost about thirty men ; ours was very trifling. We have heard 
 some firing to-day on the left, but know not what was the cause 
 or consequence of it. Medina is a large and very old town, 
 standing on the high Road from Madrid to Corunna. Its 
 population before the war was about twelve thousand, but it is 
 at present greatly deserted. This being the first time a British 
 Force has been there, the people are remarkably civil ; they 
 have had a French Garrison in the place from the very first 
 day it was occupied by them. 
 
 The enemy have abandoned Toro, leaving a small 
 Garrison there ; it is probable however we shall not trouble 
 ourselves about them. It lies off the Road to Valladolid, 
 where their principal force is. Medina is distant from Madrid 
 thirty Leagues, and from Valladolid eight. 
 
 7th. There has been no move since my last date. Our 
 inactivity proceeds from an impossibility of crossing the 
 Douro. The Enemy have destroyed the several bridges over 
 it, with the exception of that at Tordesillas, which is so 
 strongly fortified that it cannot be forced. There are different
 
 144 
 
 [1812] Fords, but they are all too deep to admit of the passage of 
 [July] Artillery or Baggage. It is probable steps are taking for the 
 construction of a Bridge, but, if so, it is not generally known. 
 It is rumoured that it is not intended that the Army should 
 move in the direction of Valladolid, but that on the junction 
 of Castanos the Spaniards should remain to watch the 
 Salamanca Road, while Lord W. makes a flank movement 
 to his right, which appears to mean nothing more or less than 
 moving directly upon the Capital. 
 
 Head quarters are at Rueda, a distance of two short 
 Leagues from Tordesillas, and our advanced Posts are about 
 three hundred yards from those of the Enemy. — The weather 
 is most oppressively hot, and such is the nature of this part 
 of the Country, that it is altogether impossible to procure 
 wood or any other substance for the purpose of sheltering the 
 troops from the excessive power of the Sun. 
 
 10. Head quarters remain at Rueda, & there have been 
 no material changes in the Army. We moved last night at 
 Midnight one League, for the purpose of occupying ground 
 vacated by the 5th & 6th Divisions, who are gone I know 
 not where ; it was adviseable that this move should not be 
 overlooked by the Enemy. We lie about equal distance 
 between the Towns of Rueda and Nava. In point of shelter 
 we are not a bit better off than we were before. 
 
 There appears no probability of our soon seeing 
 Valladolid. It is said that Lord Wellington has gained his 
 end, in having dispossessed the Enemy of all the fine Corn 
 Country throughout the province of Salamanca, and extending 
 along the Tagus as far as Talavera de la Reyna. The 
 concentration of all their force to oppose us will likewise 
 afford a splendid opportunity to the Guerillas, of which no 
 doubt they will not fail to avail themselves. 
 
 We hear from deserters that Bonnet has joined, and that 
 Caffarelli with a considerable force is coming from Navarre ; 
 on his junction it is supposed we shall be attacked.
 
 145 » 
 
 Sit Thomas Graham has been compelled from ill health 
 to quit the Army, and is gone home to the great regret of 
 everybody : conjecture says that he will be succeeded by 
 Sir Edw. Paget, a very deservedly popular Officer. The 
 present second in command is Sir Stapleton Cotton, an officer 
 who has some knowledge of Cavalry Movements, but who is 
 entirely inexperienced in all the detail necessary to make a 
 good Commander in Chief. It would indeed be dreadful, 
 were anything now to happen to Lord W. ; to say the least 
 of it, the safety of the Army would be endangered. 
 
 i6th. In consequence of the enemy making a movement 
 to their right yesterday, & concentrating a large force opposite 
 the Ford at Polios, where the 3d Division are stationed, 
 Lord Wellington moved his troops to their left in order to be 
 able to support that Division in case of their being attacked ; 
 Head Quarters also were changed from Rueda to a place 
 called Nava del Rey about two leagues further to the left. As 
 it was not unlikely that the enemy would this morning attempt 
 to force the Ford at Polios, we were under Arms an hour 
 before Daylight to be in readiness. Everything however 
 remained very quiet, & about seven we took up our 
 ground on some heights, near to those we quitted last night, 
 the Light Division occupying those we left. We have now been 
 a fortnight in this neighbourhood, and we are still unable to 
 form an idea when we shall be able to advance. The very 
 strong position of the Enemy renders them secure from our 
 Attack, and notwithstanding the arrival of their reinforce- 
 ments they appear as unwilling to attack us. In the 
 meantime a singular mode of warfare is carried on ; it is not 
 uncommon to see five hundred of the Enemy, and as many 
 of our men, bathing together in the Douro in the most perfect 
 good humour possible, at the same time that the Cavalry of 
 the two rival Armies come down on their respective sides of 
 the River to water, it being perfectly understood that neither 
 party shall ever approach the River armed. Any infringement 
 of this agreement is noticed by firing on any armed Cavalry 
 or Infantry of either side.
 
 146 
 
 [1812] 2ist On the Evening of the i6th we received a sudden 
 
 [July] order to march to Villa Verde, a village about a Mile in rear 
 of Medina del Campo ; this movement was occasioned by the 
 Enemy having in the Afternoon crossed the Douro on our 
 left. On reaching Villa Verde we were directed to proceed 
 near three leagues further to a place called Castrejon, on the 
 Salamanca Road, which we did not reach till after daylight 
 of the 17th. We remained there the whole of that day, and 
 the enemy advanced as far as Nava del Rey, about five miles 
 from us. Early on the i8th skirmishing commenced, & about 
 six o'clock the French appeared in great force. As our Army 
 was not concentrated we fell back upon the Divisions in our 
 rear, and as was understood into the neighbourhood of a 
 position Lord Wellington meant to meet them in. During 
 the day there were several severe skirmishes, and amongst 
 others some most furious charges of Cavalry ; the enemy had 
 two opportunities of cannonading, which they availed 
 themselves of most vigorously, but happily our loss was but 
 little. I was myself very nearly being one of the Victims, 
 a Cannon Shot passing within a few inches of my head. 
 The enemy pressed us in a manner, and with a spirit, 
 we were never before accustomed to. At length, a 
 favorable opportunity occurring. Lord W. directed the 
 4th Division to attack their advanced guard ; as the 
 Attack was made by the Division left in front, it fell 
 to the 27th & 40th Regts composing the left Brigade to bear 
 the brunt of the affair. These two regiments, on approaching 
 the Enemy, advanced to the charge in the most undaunted 
 manner, notwithstanding the force opposed to them was near 
 three times their number ; the French presented a firm front, 
 till our People arrived within about twenty paces of them, 
 when they fired a volley, and flew in the utmost confusion. 
 Unfortunately, the assailants were so much exhausted from 
 a long previous march, and the great heat of the weather 
 fwhich was so excessive that several men and officers actually 
 died on the march), that they were unable to follow them up
 
 H7 
 
 as could have been wished. The business was soon over 
 with a loss to the Division of 5 Officers killed and wounded, 
 and about two hundred men, of which one Officer and 
 seventy [Men] belonged to my Regiment : the loss of the 
 Enemy was estimated at upwards of six hundred Men. After 
 this Affair the Enemy did not attempt to advance a step, but 
 took up a position, while we did the same. — We remained in 
 position on the 19th till the Evening, when the French were 
 observed moving in force to their left, the British Army in 
 consequence moved to their right, and head quarters were 
 established for the night at Villase.— At dawn of day on the 
 morning of the 20th the whole British Army was formed in 
 order of Battle on an immense plain, which was as fair a 
 Challenge to the Enemy as could possibly be given; they 
 however declined it and continued to move to their left ; we 
 were again necessarily put in motion, and moved parallel 
 with them. We halted about Noon near a Village, three 
 Leagues from Salamanca, the Enemy being in position 
 between us and the Tormes— At daylight this Morning, we 
 marched in the direction of Salamanca, and are now bivouacked 
 on the Tormes about a mile from that City. Genl. Picton 
 with a column is on our old position, to prevent the Enemy 
 getting possession of it ; Genl. Clinton with the 6th Division 
 is across the River, observing the Motions of a part of the 
 French Army that went over yesterday Evening, and the 
 remainder of our force are along the banks of the River, to be 
 ready to cross it or move to the position, according as the 
 motions of the Enemy shall render one or the other 
 necessary — Thus without fighting a battle have they compelled 
 us to retrograde all the way from the Douro to this place, and 
 it is even now very doubtful whether we shall be able to 
 maintain ourselves at Salamanca, as in the event of their 
 continuing to move to their left, we must of necessity move 
 parallel with them, and uncover it. I have not been into the 
 Town, but I hear the utmost consternation prevails there at 
 the idea of again having the French with them. Events may
 
 148 
 
 [1812] yet turn out well, but at present I fear we have gained but 
 [Jt'LY] \in\e popularity by our irruption into the North of Spain. 
 
 26th. The events since my last date have been of an 
 importance altogether unprecedented since the commencement 
 of hostilities in this Country. On the Evening of the 2ist it 
 having been ascertained that nearly the whole of the French 
 army had passed the Tormes, the British army crossed it 
 likewise, and took up a position about a League from Salamanca 
 having our left upon the River. At daybreak on the 22d we 
 discovered the enemy posted on the heights opposite us. They 
 very soon sent out a large party of Dragoons, & Sharpshooters, 
 and a very smart skirmish commenced, which lasted for two 
 or three hours ; this was not with any intention of subsequently 
 attacking us, but merely to cover a movement of their Army 
 to their left. In the course of the forenoon they had occupied 
 some most advantageous heights, near a league further to their 
 left ; & while they were able from their immense Artillery & 
 apparently impregnable position to cannonade us with effect, 
 it reduced Lord W. to the necessity of either uncovering 
 Salamanca, or allowing them to get on the Ciudad Rodrigo 
 Road in which latter case our Baggage would have been taken, 
 and our supplies intercepted. His Lordship therefore (notwith- 
 standing their advantageous position) resolved to attack them. 
 The Attack commenced about four o'Clock in the afternoon, 
 and continued till eight at night, when the Enemy were 
 dislodged from their heights, and pursued in the utmost 
 confusion. They recrossed the river the same night at Alba 
 de Tormes, & the Head Quarters of the British Army were 
 established at that place. On the 23d the pursuit continued, 
 when a great number of Prisoners were made ; the Brigade of 
 Heavy Germans made a charge upon two solid Columns and 
 took fifteen hundred Prisoners. On the- 24th the Army 
 continued to move forward. Yesterday we were compelled to 
 halt in order to enable the Stores & Provisions of the Army to 
 reach us. This day we marched four Leagues, and are at
 
 149 
 
 present about ten from Salamanca ; we are ignorant where 
 Head Quarters are this Evening. 
 
 The battle of the 22d was crowned by the completest 
 Victory on record. The French lost several General officers, 
 five Eagles, twenty pieces of Artillery, a great quantity of 
 Baggage, & about fifteen thousand Men ; the loss on our part 
 is between three & four thousand. Genl. Le Marchant is killed 
 & Genls. Beresford, Leith, Cole & Alten wounded ; the 
 Divisions employed on this memorable day were the 3d, 4th, 
 5th, & 6th, the Light, ist & 7th Divisions being in reserve. 
 The whole business was performed by the Bayonet, & the most 
 sceptical must now be surely convinced how superior in the 
 use of it is the British Soldier to every other in the world. 
 Among the French General officers wounded was Marshal 
 Marmont, the Commander in Chief ; he had an arm amputated 
 at Alba de Tormes, and received besides another wound ; the 
 operation was of necessity hastily performed, and he left that 
 place in the greatest agitation of mind. It is reported he is 
 since dead, & the event is extremely probable ; perhaps it were 
 better for him that such were the case, as his reputation as a 
 great General by this late business has received a mortal stab. 
 Lord W. on the contrary, has by this achievement placed 
 himself almost beyond the reach of rivalry. Splendid as are 
 his military talents, he must consider himself in great measure 
 indebted to his success from his good fortune in commanding 
 the bravest Troops in the world ; men who when well led on 
 will hesitate at nothing. It is to be hoped that some pen equal 
 to the task will describe the heroic Acts of the 22d, & thus do 
 justice to that valour which may almost be considered as 
 romantic- 
 
 28th. Yesterday we marched two Leagues & a half, & 
 bivouacked near a village called Castillejos on the River 
 Zapadiel. This day we have come the same distance, & are 
 encamped on the same River, near the village of San Vicente 
 del Palacio ; Head Quarters are at a Town called Olmedo,
 
 ISO 
 
 [1812] about two Leagues in front of us, and on the high road from 
 [Jcly] Madrid to Valladolid. It is confidently rumoured that the junction 
 of the Enemy with their reinforcements from Madrid has been 
 prevented and that their advanced Guard has been fallen in 
 with and defeated by our Cavalry ; King Joseph is said to be 
 with them. The Road we have marched on this time has been 
 very far to the left of that we took when we advanced last upon 
 the Douro ; this has been from the necessity imposed upon 
 Lord W. of following the track of the Enemy. It is supposed 
 we shall this time endeavour to cross the river at Tudela, by 
 which means we avoid the Pisuerga, which it would be necessary 
 to pass if we passed the Douro at Tordesillas. — Marmont is 
 reported to have died at Arevallos. The command of the 
 French Army is said lo have devolved upon General Foy, who, 
 if we may believe the prisoners, gained but little credit for his 
 exertions on the battle of the 22d. He commanded the Cavalry. 
 
 31st. On the 29th we crossed the river Adaja & 
 encamped near a village called Hornillos on the Eresma. 
 Yesterday we passed the latter at a Ford, and the Cega at a 
 bridge ; after marching four Leagues we were directed to halt 
 in a wood near the Village of Boccillo, for orders ; this place 
 was only distant five miles from Valladolid, the Spires of 
 which City we could plainly see. While we were indulging 
 ourselves with the idea of entering it, an order was received 
 to retrograde two Leagues, & encamp on the Cega, where we 
 remain this day. — The Enemy left Valladolid yesterday 
 Morning. Lord Wellington with a squadron of the nth 
 Dragoons entered it a few hours after. He was received with 
 loud acclamations by the Inhabitants, and after remaining 
 there for some hours he returned to the village of Mojados 
 near our encampment, and where his Head Quarters are at 
 present established. — About seven hundred sick & wounded 
 French were found in Valladolid. The enemy have taken the 
 direction of Aranda, a town situated on the Douro, for the 
 purpose it is supposed of uniting with the reinforcements under 
 Joseph ; it is probable they will yet make another struggle 
 before they abandon the Capital,
 
 151 
 
 [AcG.] Aug. 2d. Yesterday we marched three Leagues, & 
 
 encamped on the same River as the preceding day ; our march 
 this day is only two Leagues, and we are again in bivouac on 
 the banks of the Ceja. The last few days, we have enjoyed the 
 luxury of Trees, having marched constantly in an extensive 
 wood ; the soil however is very sandy, & extremely painful 
 to the Troops in marching. The weather, as may be supposed, 
 is most oppressively hot. Our present bivouac is about two 
 miles from an old fortified Town called Cuellar, where Head 
 Quarters at present are. 
 
 It is uncertain whether the enemy took the direction of 
 Burgos or Aranda, but it is reported the former ; in which 
 case I see no reason whatever why we should not march 
 immediately upon the Capital. There are no Troops between 
 Madrid and us, excepting the twelve or fourteen thousand men 
 with Joseph : these latter are said to have quitted Segovia 
 yesterday, having previously levied a contribution of one 
 million & a half of Dollars on the unfortunate Inhabitants. 
 
 6th. We remained in our bivouac upon the Cega till this 
 morning, when we marched 3 leagues in the direction of 
 Segovia. We are encamped on the River Piron, near the 
 Village of Mudriar, and about six Leagues distant from 
 Segovia. Our Cavalry entered that City on the day before 
 yesterday. There does not appear any obstacle to our 
 marching to the Capital, should such an arrangement be the 
 intention of Lord W. The Army of Joseph is composed in 
 great measure of Juramantados who are said to be deserting 
 in great numbers. — The Army of Marmont has not yet 
 recovered from its panic ; there is little or no doubt that he 
 himself died on the 30th, & Accts. have been received of five 
 other Generals having also died. Our wounded General 
 Officers are doing remarkably well, as are the wounded in 
 general. The 6th Division with Genl. Clinton remain at 
 Cuellar for the present ; four regiments [which] lately joined 
 the Army, & are suffering very much from sickness, are also
 
 152 
 
 [1812] with him ; Head Quarters have been at Cuellar the last five 
 
 [Aug.] days, but we know not if they have moved from thence to-day 
 
 or not. Cuellar is a very old Town, possessing a most 
 
 spacious Castle, in which was an Armoury ; it has been 
 
 however totally destroyed by the French. 
 
 yth. Our march this day was 3 Leagues. We are 
 bivouacked near the Village of Yenques, on the river Eresma, 
 and distant from Segovia three leagues ; it appears the Enemy 
 have left a Garrison in the Castle there, for the reduction of 
 which some heavy Guns are moving with us. 
 
 The Country we have reached is much more plentiful 
 than any we have been accustomed to for a very long period 
 of time ; Geese, Turkeys, Ducks &c. &c. are now to be pro- 
 cured at a reasonable price. The Costume of the Peasantry 
 in this neighbourhood is altogether different from any I have 
 before seen, & considerably resembles the Chinese dress. As 
 we pass thro' the several Towns & Villages, the acclamations 
 of the People are unbounded. 
 
 loth. On the 8th we marched near four Leagues & 
 bivouacked at el Palacio del Rio frio, about a league from 
 Segovia. This place takes its name from a Royal Palace built 
 not many years since for the accomodation of the Court while 
 hunting in this Neighbourhood ; it is an immense square 
 building & has fifty one windows on each face ; it has nothing 
 remarkable except the Stair Case which is very handsome and 
 worthy of a Royal residence. On the 9th we remained in the 
 same bivouac ; this gave us an opportunity of visiting Segovia. 
 We were misinformed when we were told that there was a 
 French Garrison in that city ; it having been entirely aban- 
 doned several days since by the Enemy. It is a very ancient 
 town, and is well worthy of observation. The Castle is known 
 to every one who has read the History of Gil Bias, as having 
 been the place of his Confinement, when he fell into disgrace ; 
 on one of the Apartments is marked, " Here the celebrated 
 Gil Bias was confined." The Cathedral is a very fine
 
 153 
 
 building, but will not bear the test of comparison with that of 
 Salamanca. There is also a fine Aqueduct, and amongst 
 other curiosities we were shewn King Joseph's Apartments in 
 the Bishop's Palace ; in his bedroom is a Table & Chair 
 where he sat with his head leaning on the former, from whence 
 his Ministers could not prevail upon him to go for the space of 
 three days, after he heard of the defeat of his Army ; he quitted 
 Segovia on the first Inst. Head Quarters were at Segovia on 
 the 7th, & at San Ildefonso on the 8th and gth. This latter is 
 estimated as one of the finest Palaces in Spain. — This day we 
 marched four Leagues, & are bivouacked near the village of 
 Espinal. We are now only nine Leagues from the Capital ; 
 it appears to me very probable that Lord W. purposes entering 
 it on the i2th, being the birthday of the Prince Regent ; we 
 have not heard that any Opposition is expected on the part of 
 the Enemy. — The Country we have entered to-day is moun- 
 tainous, & forms a pleasing contrast to the insipid flats we 
 have so long been marching through ; the heat is in conse- 
 quence infinitely less oppressive. 
 
 nth. This day we came through the celebrated Pass of 
 the Guadarrama. The ascent to it is beautiful, but its summit 
 was not so difficult as we had been led to expect. From the 
 top, had the morning been clear, we should have had a distinct 
 view of Madrid, but the haze prevented us seeing any distant 
 object. At the Village of Guadarrama a few of us turned off 
 for the purpose of visiting the well known Palace of the 
 Escurial. 1 had expected so much from it, that I must confess 
 I was greatly disappointed. The Palace itself is as far 
 destroyed as it well could be, the enemy having entirely 
 stripped the regal Apartments of everything that decorated 
 them ; notwithstanding we were much gratified by our visit, 
 the Mausoleum, the Church, and the Library, each being 
 worthy of observation. In the former are deposited the remains 
 of a great number of the Kings & Queens of Spain ; amongst 
 them is the body of Charles the 5th. The Coffins are all of
 
 154 
 
 [1812] the finest marble in separate niches of four, one above the 
 [AoG.j other : there are twelve of these Coffins still unoccupied ; the 
 Mausoleum is called the Pantheon, and is certainly a very 
 splendid & beautiful edifice — the Church is also particularly 
 elegant ; the Ceiling is beautifully painted ; the subjects are 
 Scriptural, & the Day of Judgment is the chef d' Oeuvre. — 
 The Library is also a large painted Room ; the subjects 
 illustrative of the different Arts & Sciences. Not a Book 
 however remains in it ; the French with their accustomed 
 rapacity have taken them all ; a pair of Globes, & an Orrery 
 alone have been spared from the grasp of these merciless 
 Robbers. By ascending a hill & looking down upon the 
 Escurial, the form of a Gridiron in which it was built is 
 perceived ; it was erected by Philip the 2d in commemoration 
 of Saint Lorenzo ; who is said to have suffered Martydom by 
 being burnt to death on that Instrument. 
 
 We are at present six leagues from Madrid, and had 
 flattered ourselves we should have taken quiet possession of 
 it ; it is likely however we are deceived, as while I am writing 
 a heavy Cannonade can be distinctly heard in that direction ; 
 there can therefore be no doubt that they yet maintain 
 themselves in the Retiro, & from the strength of it we may 
 have a good deal of trouble in dislodging them from it. 
 
 2ist. A long period has elapsed since my last date, from 
 my time having been too fully occupied to allow of my 
 bringing up my Journal. The firing heard on the Evening of 
 the nth proceeded from a severe skirmish which took place 
 with the Enemy about two Leagues on this side of the 
 Capital. Genl. D'Urban with near a thousand Portuguese 
 Cavalry was in front with a Brigade of English Horse Artillery, 
 supported about a half League in their rear by the Brigade 
 of Heavy German Cavalry. Towards Evening some enemy's 
 Cavalry shewed themselves, when a slight skirmishing took 
 place, the Enemy retiring on Madrid. At length they 
 appeared in considerable force ; and made a disposition to
 
 155 
 
 charge the Portugueze ; the latter instantly fled in the 
 most shameful manner without attempting any resistance ; 
 the consequence was that the Guns were left unprotected, and 
 three of them were taken. At the same time, from the rapid 
 flight of the Portugueze, the Germans had not sufficient time 
 to get under arms, before the Enemy was amongst them ; the 
 few who were prepared made three most gallant charges on 
 an infinitely superior force, and consequently sustained a 
 severe loss ; about fifty Men & seventy Horses. This event, 
 so unexpected, threw a general gloom over the whole Army ; 
 Lord W. was said to be more annoyed by it than by anything 
 that had ever happened ; they were the first British Guns the 
 Enemy had taken since the commencement of the Peninsular 
 war. Fortunately something occurred to prevent the French 
 from keeping possession of them, as they were found the 
 following day spiked near Madrid ; they have since been put 
 again into a state of Service. 
 
 On the 1 2th we bivouacked about three Leagues from 
 Madrid, and on the same day Lord W. & Headquarters 
 entered the Capital. Nearly the whole of the population came 
 out to meet him, old & young, rich & poor ; it was with 
 difficulty we could get into the Town, so excessive was the 
 joy of the People. On the 13th at daylight our Division 
 marched towards Madrid, & bivouacked in a wood about a 
 mile from the City, & close to the King's Country House. I 
 was in the town about eight o'Clock, & at this time the 
 concourse of People was immense. The approach to Madrid 
 within two miles of it was very fine, the Town itself is the 
 most beautiful I ever saw ; there are an immense number of 
 Palaces, & other fine houses, and the Streets are wide and 
 well built ; it far exceeds the expectations of every one. — On 
 the Evening of the 13th the Constitution as framed by the 
 Cortes was proclaimed ; the sight was truly affecting ; the 
 Houses of the Streets through which the procession passed 
 were ornamented with silks of various colours ; & the windows
 
 156 
 
 [1812] filled with remarkably fine women ; everything bore the 
 [Aug.] appearance of the most unsophisticated Joy. At length the 
 Constitution was proclaimed amid the acclamations of 
 thousands, who once more respired the air of liberty, after 
 having for more than four years endured the galling Chains 
 of the most odious Slavery. The rejoicings continued for 
 three days, and for the same number of nights the town was 
 most beautifully illuminated. In the midst of all this gaiety 
 the preparations for carrying on the operations against the 
 Retiro were carried on with vigour. On the night of the 13th 
 the Outworks were stormed and taken, and on the following 
 Morning at ten o'Clock a number of Troops deemed sufficient 
 for the purpose were selected from the 3d Division to storm 
 the remainder of the works. Just as they were about to move 
 off for the purpose, a flag of Truce issued from the Fort ; the 
 result of the conference, which lasted some time, was the 
 surrendering up the Fort and all it contained to the Allied 
 Army. The surprize excited by this most unlocked for event 
 was so great, that it was with difficulty believed. At four 
 o'clock in the Afternoon the Garrison marched out with the 
 honors of war, to the amount of two thousand; they were 
 nearly all in a state of intoxication, and their gestures and 
 language was very violent ; they exclaimed that they were 
 sold, and that their Officers ought every one to be burnt 
 alive. For my own part I shall never cease to believe, that 
 the Governor yielded to the " Auri sacra fames " tho' such an 
 opinion is very assiduously scouted at Head Quarters ; at all 
 events it may very fairly be inferred that that Gentleman will 
 never break his Parole. — In the Fort were found 190 pieces 
 of Cannon, 20,000 Musquets, Ammunition in proportion, and 
 immense Magazines of every description. 
 
 On the 18th our Division marched & bivouacked on the 
 same ground we occupied on the 12th. On the 19th it reached 
 the Escurial, where we still remain ; I did not leave Madrid 
 myself till the igth and arrived here just at the same time
 
 157 
 
 with the Division. I will confess I never left a place with 
 more sincere regret, having passed there a most delightful 
 week. On the day of my arrival there I was particularly 
 fortunate in being introduced to a Family of the first rank, 
 and of the most amiable manners ; from them I received 
 attentions and kindnesses I can never forget ; the father is an 
 old General Officer, and in the time of Charles the 4th held 
 the situation of Minister at war, and a Privy Counsellor of 
 the Empire. 
 
 The principal curiosities of Madrid are the Royal 
 Palace (which in point of magnificence is said to be 
 unrivalled in Europe), the Museum, and the public walk 
 called the Prado ; in the Palace & Museum are some 
 Chef d'Oeuvres of Rubens, & Titian, and other great 
 Masters, in the latter are to be found collections of 
 every Beast, Bird, Fish, Mineral, precious Stones, &c. &c. in 
 the world, besides an infinite variety of Curiosities from every 
 part of the Globe. The Prado is said to be the finest public 
 walk in Europe.— The Churches in Madrid have nothing extra- 
 ordinary in them ; the principal one is dedicated to San Isidro, 
 but it is very inferior to the Cathedral at Salamanca ; there are 
 two Theatres tolerably good, but the performers are very 
 indifferent, the principal Actors having gone off with the 
 intrusive King. The two great inconveniences we sustained 
 at Madrid were the excessive heat (by far greater than 
 I have ever before experienced it) and the hardness of the 
 pavement, so much so that there was a general complaint of 
 sore feet. — What most particularly strikes a stranger in Madrid 
 is the elegance of the Women, the beauty of their dress, and 
 their inimitable walk. 
 
 There are at present concentrated in the Escurial, the ist 
 4th, 5th, & 7th Divisions of Infantry, & Generals Pack's & 
 Bradford's Brigades of Portugueze ; the 3d Division remains 
 at Madrid, with Head Quarters ; the Light are still at Valverde, 
 & the 6th have moved from Cuellar to Olmedo. I know not 
 where are the Head Quarters of the Cavalry.
 
 158 
 
 [1812] In the meantime the French have again occupied Valladolid 
 
 [Adg.] ^ jjjg neighbouring places, but it is not apprehended they will 
 march upon Salamanca, as such a movement could not be 
 performed without risk. From the extreme heat of the weather 
 a season of rest is most devoutly to be wished, but it is very 
 little to be expected. 
 
 24th. Nothing has occurred to induce us to expect we 
 shall quit this place soon ; Head Quarters remain in IVIadrid 
 with the Light & 3d Divisions ; the ist, 4th, & 7th are here; 
 the 5th marched Yesterday Morning to Arevallo, to be in 
 communication with Genl. Clinton. 
 
 King Joseph, who was supposed to be going to Valencia, 
 is said to have changed his direction, & is gone towards Aragon ; 
 it is certain there have been great disturbances in his Army 
 between the French & Spanish troops, & much blood has been 
 shed ; many of the Families who left Madrid in his train have 
 returned to their houses, preferring to be tried by some Court 
 established for the purpose to remaining with him. 
 
 [Sept.] Sept. 15th. On the 25th Ulto. I went to Madrid, and after 
 
 being there a day or two was attacked with remittent Fever, 
 from which I have only just recovered ; I returned yesterday 
 to the Escorial, where my Division alone remains ; Lord W. 
 left Madrid on the ist inst. & took the direction of Valladolid; 
 he has with him the ist, 5th, 6th, & 7th Divisions, & Genl. 
 Pack's & Bradford's Brigades of Portugueze. It is conjectured 
 they are by this time near Burgos, the Siege of which place, or 
 rather of the Castle there, is determined on. By the last Accts. 
 it was supposed the French Army would not make a stand in 
 that neighbourhood. In the meantime the French have raised 
 the Siege of Cadiz ; this most important event took place on 
 the night of the 24th Ulto. It appears to have been done with 
 much precipitation, as they left a vast quantity of stores behind 
 them, and it is said Artillery to the Amount of fifteen hundred 
 pieces. This movement must have been the consequence of 
 our possession of the Capital, by which the communication
 
 159 
 
 between the Armies of Soult & Suchet was threatened. By the 
 last Accts. Soult had arrived at Granada, on his way, it was 
 supposed, to Valencia. On the whole, everything goes on most 
 prosperously, & it is not too much to expect that before Christmas 
 there will not be a Frenchman on this side of the Ebro. 
 
 The weather has lately been hot beyond all precedent, 
 but, heavy rain having set in the last few days, the temperature 
 has become much milder. 
 
 23d. We still remain at the Escorial ; Head Quarters are 
 at Burgos, & the Siege of the Castle at that place has 
 commenced ; we do not know the amount of the Force the 
 Enemy has left there; this place is wretchedly stupid, & we are 
 entirely out of the way of all news. Genl. Hill is said to be at 
 Talavera. 
 
 28th . 1 1 appears that on the i gth at Night a strong Outwork 
 at Burgos was stormed ; our People were repulsed the first 
 attack, but succeeded on the second ; our loss was severe 
 amounting to about four hundred & fifty killed & wounded; the 
 Fort was garrisoned by five hundred of the Enemy, of which 
 number only seventy remain who were not bayonetted. On the 
 Evening of the 22d a second Outwork was stormed, but without 
 success ; the loss was not very great ; Majr. Laurie of the 79th 
 was killed on the occasion. Genl. Hill's Corps is at Toledo & 
 Aranjuez. 
 rOcT 1 Octr. 6th. Another unsuccessful attack was made at 
 
 Burgos on the Evening of the 29th, and, as is said, under 
 circumstances not at all creditable to the assailants. After the 
 very distinguished proofs of gallantry performed by the British 
 Army in the Peninsula, it is painful to have to record these 
 several failures, which only required the accustomed Spirit of a 
 British Soldier to have ensured their success. 
 
 I write this at Madrid, to which place I came on the 2d 
 Inst. I had yesterday an opportunity of witnessing a Bull 
 fight, a spectacle the mo?t delightful there can be to the people
 
 i6o 
 
 [1812] of this Nation, but which to a mind tinctured with the smallest 
 [ CT,] degree of humanity cannot be witnessed without horror. On 
 these occasions ten or twelve Bulls & nearly as many horses 
 are sacrificed amid every species of cruelty, & the applauding 
 shouts of an immense Multitude. So concordant is this 
 Spectacle with the ideas of the Spaniards of both Sexes, that 
 many a poor Family, who know not where to get money to 
 purchase a bit of bread to eat, will sell the Clothes they wear, 
 or the Bed they lie on, in order to procure wherewithal to pay 
 for their admittance. The shouts of applause are in an exact 
 ratio with the degrees of cruelty that are practised, and if the 
 unfortunate Bulls are killed without half a dozen Horses & 
 at least one of the Fighters being also Victims the disappoint- 
 ment is extreme. The mode of fighting is as follows : — The 
 Animals having for several days previous been goaded by 
 every species of torture into madness are on the day appointed 
 let loose one by one into the Court ; two Men on Horseback 
 and ten or twelve on Foot then commence the attack ; the 
 former are armed with Spears, and the latter carry a large 
 Cloth in one hand and a dart in the other. On being attacked 
 by the Bull, they throw the cloth over his Eyes, & plunge the 
 dart into his Body. When charged furiously by the Animal, 
 with amazing agility they leap the fence that separates the 
 Court from the Spectators. When the Horse is charged by 
 the Bull, his attack is generally parried by the adroitness of 
 the Rider, who wards it off by plunging the Spear into the 
 Animal. It frequently happens however that the Horse 
 receives the whole vengeance of the Bull, and tho' completely 
 gored even to the protrusion of his Bowels, the Rider is 
 compelled to remain on his Back till he drops. At other 
 times the Horse & his Rider are both knocked over by the 
 strength of the Bull, when, to prevent the Man being killed 
 by the enraged Animal, he is assailed by all the Combatants 
 on foot, on whom he immediately turns, and the Rider again 
 springs into his Seat. At length the poor Animal opposed to 
 such a host of Enemies becomes dispirited, & refuses to
 
 i6i 
 
 combat any longer, when by a refinement of cruelty the darts 
 are armed with crackers and a great number of them are 
 plunged into him ; the united powers of agony & terror 
 stimulate him again into madness, but by the violence of his 
 fury he is soon exhausted. A new personage then presents 
 himself called the Matador, splendidly dressed, and holding 
 in his right hand a long straight sword, and in his left a red 
 Flag ; he advances boldly to the Animal, & placing himself 
 immediately in front of him, by every irritating gesture at 
 length provokes him to a momentary fury. The Bull makes 
 a charge upon the Matador, who with an extraordinary 
 address plunges the Sword into the Spine of the Animal, & 
 kills him in an instant, amid the tumultous shouts of an 
 applauding Audience. Bands of Music instantly commence 
 playing, & three or four mules richly caparisoned are brought 
 in, to which the carcase of the Animal is attached, and they 
 carry it off in the galop. Another Victim is then immediately 
 driven in, and the same scene of barbarity ensues. Though 
 the number of Bulls for yesterday's Amusement was ten, I 
 could not witness the sufferings of more than one ; I had a 
 presentiment of the disgust I should experience, and I can 
 with truth assert that my feeling was never before so 
 completely horrified. The endurance of this barbarous 
 amusement, and the protection afforded to it by the Govern- 
 ment, I consider as a stain upon the National Character, but 
 the applause & joy manifested by the people at the sufferings 
 of the poor Animals has given me an idea of their hearts as 
 bad as it is possible to conceive. It is to the credit of the 
 English Character, that scarcely a British Officer has gone to 
 witness it a second time. 
 
 Genl. Hill is here at present, and in addition to his 
 Corps has taken under his command the Light 3d & 4th 
 Divisions ; the latter is coming from the Escorial into this 
 Neighbourhood ; this change is said to be in consequence of 
 some movements of Soult who appears to be threatening the 
 Capital.
 
 1 62 
 
 [1812] 13th. I quitted Madrid yesterday & found my Brigade 
 
 [Oct.] jj Pinto, a large village distant three leagues from the Capital. 
 The demonstrations of Soult were the means of making Genl. 
 Hill concentrate his force ; at present, it is supposed, that 
 Soult has taken a direction towards Valencia for the purpose 
 of concentrating with Suchet. — Burgos still resists all our 
 efforts ; the Outworks however at length have been all carried, 
 and nothing remains but the Castle. The Enemy made a 
 Sally a few Evenings since upon our Trenches, & were 
 immediately driven in ; in a short time they sallied a second 
 time with an increased force, and succeeded in driving our 
 People from their work; and, before the Covering Parties could 
 repel them, they had knocked off the Trannions of one of the 
 only heavy guns we have there ; in this last Service Majr. 
 Cocks of the 79th, an Officer of very great promise, was 
 unfortunately killed ; it is said our total loss since the 
 commencement of the Siege amounts to fourteen hundred men. 
 Lord Wellington is expected at Madrid as soon as Genl. Paget 
 shall have arrived at Burgos to take the command of that part 
 of the Army. 
 
 25th. Since my last date, having been Gazetted to a 
 Staff Surgeoncy, I am at present at Madrid waiting the 
 result of an application of Genl. Cole, who has written to the 
 Inspr.of Hospls. to request I may be appointed to this Division; 
 should it fail, I shall go immediately to Burgos. On the 23d 
 I bade adieu to the 40th Regiment, after having been with 
 them nearly eleven years ; they are unquestionably one of the 
 finest Regiments in the Army, and will always have my 
 warmest wishes for their welfare. 
 
 On the 2 1 St the 4th Division moved from Valdemoro & 
 Pinto to Villages near Aranjuez, and the 3d Divn. marched 
 the same day to occupy the quarters vacated by the 4th Divn. 
 On the 22d I rode over to Aranjuez, which has ever been 
 esteemed the favorite Royal residence in this Country. The 
 Palace is by no means equal in point of magnificence to that
 
 i63 
 
 at this place ; it stands immediately on the Tagus ; the 
 gardens have been very beautiful & tasty, but latterly have 
 been suffered to run to decay. The chief curiosity at Aranjuez 
 is a small royal residence called the Casa del Labrador ; it is 
 exquisitely beautiful. The day I was at Aranjuez there was 
 an unusual bustle ; the Enemy in front were making demon- 
 strations of advancing on that Road, & on our part every 
 precaution was making ; all the heavy Baggage, Forge & 
 Forage Waggons &c. &c. were moving to the rear for the 
 purpose of crossing the River, and the several Bridges were 
 mined and ready to be blown up. On the following day how- 
 ever it was ascertained they had taken a direction to their 
 right ; had they come on by the Aranjuez Road, they would 
 have had to encounter a most superb position, which, I doubt 
 not, would have proved to them another Busaco ; it is situated 
 about five Leagues from hence, & two from Aranjuez. This 
 Morning it is said our Troops are again all in Motion in the 
 direction of Alcala, which is to our left, as the Movements of 
 the Enemy indicate an intention of endeavouring to penetrate 
 to the Capital, by the road of Guadalaxara. The intrusive 
 King is said to have reached Cuenca, which looks as though 
 he had really hopes of again possessing himself of this place. 
 In the midst of all these movements it is a subject of much 
 regret that, in the event of a general Action here, there is no 
 certainty of our having Lord W. to preside over it. Our last 
 Accts. from Burgos are to the 20th. It appears that on the 
 evening of the 19th another unsuccessful attempt was made to 
 storm ; on the 20th the Enemy shewed every disposition to 
 advance & relieve the place ; Massena had assumed the 
 command ; Lord W. withdrew all the Troops from before 
 Burgos, with the exception of the First Divisn. & was deter- 
 mined to give Battle if the Enemy offered it ; under all 
 these circumstances much & very important matter may be 
 expected to take place in a few days ; there is some little 
 panic here, but it is not general ; one Portugueze regiment 
 only is left at this place.
 
 i64 
 
 [1812] 28th. The Enemy are in force at Aranjuez, but it is not 
 
 [Oct.] known that they have as yet passed the Tagus, though the 
 Fords are all practicable. A general Action is expected in a 
 day or two, and nothing is heard of Lord W. The Spaniards 
 in particular are in despair on the occasion, & augur nothing 
 but defeat from his absence ; it is yet to be hoped he may 
 arrive in time. 
 
 The Enemy made a strong reconnoisance in front of 
 Burgos, with fifteen Squadrons of Cavalry & about ten 
 thousand Infantry ; Lord W. attacked them & immediately 
 repulsed them with loss. Since that he has entirely raised the 
 siege, & our army is said to be in position about two Leagues 
 on this side of Burgos. 
 
 [Nov.] Novr. I. The events of the last few days have been of 
 
 the most painful nature, nor were they at all suspected by any 
 
 one. On the 29th rumours were afloat in the Morning, that 
 
 the British Army was about to retreat for the purpose of 
 
 concentrating with Lord W. Towards the Afternoon an 
 
 unusual bustle was observed to prevail among the Civil 
 
 Authorities & their Families, & Equipages were seen severally 
 
 quitting the Town. On the morning of the 30th the removal 
 
 of all the sick & wounded and the destruction of the Guns in 
 
 the Retiro left no sort of doubt that we were going to 
 
 abandon the Capital ; the Shops were nearly all shut, & the 
 
 greatest agitation evidently prevailed.- — I quitted Madrid 
 
 myself in the Afternoon of the 30th, having previously taken 
 
 leave of the Family I have before spoken of and for whom I 
 
 must ever entertain the most grateful recollection. Their 
 
 situation is peculiarly a painful one ; the state of health of the 
 
 old general entirely precludes his being removed, & from the 
 
 Family having been always suspected during the time the 
 
 Enemy were in Madrid before, & their having given constant 
 
 proof during our stay of their attachment to the British, they 
 
 will, I fear, have to undergo many hardships & indignities. 
 
 The most profound grief pervaded them when I bade them
 
 i65 
 
 adieu, & I can with truth say I participated most warmly in 
 their distresses. 
 
 On the night of the 30th I remained with a part of the 
 Army in Las Rosas, about two & a lialf Leagues on the Road 
 leading to the Escorial. On that night the Retiro was entirely 
 & most effectually blown up without at all injuring the Town, 
 which was at one time feared would be the case. At Las 
 Rosas I learned from Genl. Pakenham, that the enemy had 
 been secretly able to collect such a force in the North, that 
 there was every reason to fear they would overwhelm Lord 
 W. if brought to action, or otherwise press him so hard as to 
 prevent our forming a junction with him. Yesterday I accom- 
 panied Genl. P. to the Escorial, & here we learned that there 
 was every reason to believe that the enemy had occupied the 
 strong Pass of the Guadarrama, & that there was no retreat 
 for us but by the Mountains of Avila, by which it was con- 
 sidered our Sick, Artillery, Stores & Baggage would be all lost ; 
 Lord W. was supposed to have been worsted in a general 
 Action, & to have been compelled to retire beyond the Tormes ; 
 in short nothing could possibly be more gloomy than our 
 prospects. In the evening Genl. Hill arrived here, & we found 
 that he was in possession of a letter from Lord W. of the 29th 
 & that everything was going on pretty well. The rumour of 
 the French having occupied the Pass proved to be unfounded, 
 nor is there any fear of such an event. It is still supposed 
 probable that, in order to join Lord W., Genl. Hill will be 
 compelled to attack the French Army in his front, unless they 
 decline such a contest by suffering the two Armies quietly to 
 unite. The Enemy had not entered Madrid at a late hour 
 last Night, but it is supposed they are there by this. Head 
 Quarters of Sir R. Hill remain here to-day, & it is probable 
 we shall cross the Guadarrama to-morrow. In the meantime 
 Soult by no means presses us as might be expected from his 
 superiority of Cavalry ; there has been but little skirmishing 
 hitherto ; the day before yesterday, they attempted to force a
 
 1 66 
 
 [1812] Bridge defended by our People, and tho' they attacked it in 
 [Nov]. very superior numbers they were driven back with loss, not- 
 withstanding it is said their Officers made most extraordinary 
 exertions to animate their men — In the North there was a 
 sharp affair in which we sustained a severe loss it is said in 
 Cavalry, particularly the i6th Dragoons ; the enemy's Cavalry 
 came on in a manner perfectly wild, & from their numbers 
 drove our People before them ; they were at length however 
 checked by the German Light Infantry. 
 
 It is impossible to calculate the consequences of our being 
 compelled to quit the Capital, but it is not unlikely that it will 
 have so great an effect on the minds of the People as to excite 
 a despondency fatal to the liberties of the Country. It is 
 certain that they have not availed themselves as they should 
 have done of the much that has been done, & it may I think 
 be fairly questioned whether in that time, with two thirds of 
 their country unoccupied by the French, they have added ten 
 thousand Men to their Army. 
 
 3d. I moved yesterday morning with the Head Quarters 
 of Sir R. Hill from the Escorial ; we crossed the Guadarrama 
 & halted at the village of Espinar. This morning we marched 
 five Leagues, and are now at a place called Lavajos. Lord 
 Wellington is at Rueda, & the probability that we could not 
 effect a junction with him without an action is now at end ; 
 our Force may now be said to have joined him, at least to- 
 morrow such will be the case. — The enemy did not arrive at 
 Madrid till the night before last ; they approached it very 
 cautiously with a small party of Dragoons, &, having ascer- 
 tained that we had entirely left it, they demanded the Keys, & 
 having ordered forty thousand Rations for three days they 
 quitted it, & proceeded to Valdemoro, where they were in 
 force. It is not known whether they have since returned to it, 
 but there is a very general idea that they do not mean to 
 occupy it, but that the present movements of Soult indicate 
 an intention of proceeding down the Valley of the Tagus, &
 
 1 67 
 
 making an incursion into the Alemtejo : such a manoeuvre 
 would oblige Lord W. to detach an opposing force & prevent 
 him from pressing on the Army of the North. — On reaching 
 the Guadarrama Pass, the whole of the Cavalry made a forced 
 March, & now precede the Infantry, they not being required 
 in the Country we are passing thro'. Indeed it does not 
 appear that the Enemy are sending a man after us. 
 
 6th. On the 4th we marched to a village called 
 Villa Nueva de Gomez, and received intelligence in the 
 Afternoon that the Advanced Guard of the Enemy had 
 reached Villa Castin, a place about five Leagues distant. 
 Yesterday we halted at Fontiveros, four Leagues ; the Enemy 
 followed us, & remained two Leagues from Sir R. Hill's 
 Head Quarters ; a few Shots were in the course of the day 
 exchanged. 
 
 I quitted Fontiveros this morning at daybreak and am 
 at present at Penaranda, three Leagues distant. I have not 
 heard what are the movements of the Enemy this day ; 
 Sir R. Hill, it is intended, shall have his Hd. Quarters about 
 half a league from hence in front, and with him will remain 
 the Light & 4th Divisions as the rear guard. The weather 
 is not promising, and it has rained a good deal to-day ; should 
 it continue it will very much embarrass our movements. 
 The numbers of Sick & the quantity of Baggage and Stores 
 is so immense that they appear to have no end. To cover 
 these the Army has been obliged to make only a short march 
 of only two leagues & a half to-day. This place is four 
 Leagues from the Tormes, which River it is probable the 
 Sick, Stores, & Baggage, will all cross to-morrow. Lord W. 
 remained yesterday morning at Rueda but it is said he has 
 moved. — Every one is ignorant of the intentions of his 
 Lordship, but it is supposed, should Soult follow us with all 
 his force, that his superiority in numbers will be so great as 
 to render the issue of a general Action too hazardous to be 
 risked ; in which case nothing appears to remain for us but to
 
 1 68 
 
 [1812] retire once more behind the Agueda ; the mere possibility of 
 [Nov.] such an event is mortifying in the extreme. 
 
 8th. Yesterday morning we marched to Alba de Tormes, 
 and the whole day was occupied in passing over the Bridge 
 the Sick, Baggage, Stores, &c. &c. Most fortunately the 
 enemy did not press us or the consequences must have been 
 either to abandon them, or otherwise, an Action to cover them. 
 In the Evening the 2d Division crossed the River, & 
 bivouacked on the opposite side ; the Baggage continued to 
 pass the whole Night & this Morning the 3d, 4th, & Light 
 Divisions crossed, as also the Cavalry, the Enemy shewing 
 no disposition to come after us. Genl. Hill had given 
 directions that his Head Quarters should be this Evening at 
 Calvaraia, a village midway between Alba & Salamanca, but 
 about midday this arrangement was altered, & he determined 
 on remaining here this Night ; the 2d & Portugueze Divisions, 
 with the Brigade of Cavalry that accompanied them from the 
 Alemtejo, recrossed the river and are cantoned here. It is 
 said the enemy are in Penaranda, but I know not whether 
 they are there in force or not ; strong picquets of Cavalry & 
 Infantry are gone out on that Road. Hopes are revived in 
 consequence of the 3d, 4th, & Light Divisions having marched 
 to join Lord W. at Salamanca, that it is his intention to 
 defend the City ; a very short time must show what is his 
 policy, as the weather has set in so very bad that it will be 
 altogether impossible to keep the Field many days. 
 
 1 1 th. On the 9th I quitted Alba, & repaired to Salamanca 
 where I received orders to join the 4th Division as StafT 
 Surgeon ; on that day nothing particular occurred. Yesterday 
 Morning the Light Division marched into Salamanca, where 
 they were cantoned with the 7th. The ist, 5th, and 6th were 
 in Position in front of the Town, on the same ground we 
 occupied during the Siege of the Forts at that place ; the 3d 
 & 4th remained in bivouack midway between Alba & 
 Salamanca near to Calvaraia de Amiba, and Genl. Hill at
 
 i6g 
 
 Calvaraia de Baxo with his force with the exception of Genl. 
 Howard's Brigade, who remained in Alba for its defence. 
 Towards the Evening the Enemy in force attempted to dislodge 
 our People from that Town, but failed ; we lost about forty 
 men on the occasion. There has been some fire in the same 
 place this Morning, but the result is not known ; early to-day 
 also there was a good deal of Musquetry near the Ford of 
 Huerta, which is defended by Genl. Pack ; of the issue of this 
 we are likewise ignorant ; neither is it known that there has 
 been any change in the Positions of the different Divisions 
 since yesterday ; Lord W. has his Headquarters at Salamanca, 
 & it would appear that it is his intention to defend the place. 
 The weather is again very fine, and the River will soon be 
 fordable in many places ; this may give a new turn to the 
 movements of the Enemy. 
 
 14th. 5 a.m. There has been nothing done since the 
 nth, when the Enemy again attempted to get possession of 
 Alba, & at the same time to dislodge Genl. Pack from the 
 Ford at Huerta ; in both which attempts they failed. On the 
 1 2th everything was remarkably quiet, & yesterday not a shot 
 was exchanged, but their movements during the Afternoon 
 & Evening indicate every probability that there will be an 
 Action this day. They reconnoitred & tried several of the 
 Fords & moved a considerable force upon two or three of 
 them. In consequence we are all upon the alert ; it wants 
 but an hour of daybreak, when the intentions of the Enemy 
 will probably be manifested ; it is impossible they can remain 
 long inactive ; the want of Provisions will compel them either 
 to fight or retire. Their force is not exactly ascertained, but 
 it is conjectured to amount to seventy thousand men ; Joseph 
 is said to be with them. 
 
 26th. At Day break on the 14th the Enemy crossed the 
 Tormes above Alba ; they passed considerable bodies of 
 Cavalry with some Artillery & Infantry ; about 8 a.m. the 
 bridge at Alba was blown up. The 4th Division had taken
 
 170 
 
 [1812] up before daylight a position on some heights above that Town 
 [Nov.] ^Q cover the retreat of Genl. Howard's Brigade from it ; this 
 done the army retired near a League & took up its position. 
 The Troops in position on this side of the River consisted of 
 the Light 2d, 3d, & 4th Divisions. The intentions of the 
 Enemy very soon manifested themselves ; they moved with 
 rapidity to their left ; some skirmishing took place, but before 
 the Evening our right flank was completely turned. 
 Immediately after dusk, the Army was again in motion, we 
 retrograded another League, and a position was taken up 
 upon the Arapiles, the same heights where the battle of the 
 22d July was fought ; Lord W. had this time the advantage 
 of being able to take possession of both Hills ; our left, which 
 was formed by the 4th Division, rested on the village of 
 Calvaraia di Amiba. All this day the enemy continued to 
 move across the river immense Columns of Infantry. 
 
 On the 15th it was very soon evident that the Enemy 
 declined attacking us in position ; he pursued the same system 
 as the preceding day, and moved to his left. Lord W. was 
 therefore compelled to withdraw the several Divisions from 
 the other side of the Water, & abandon Salamanca to its fate. 
 To prevent the enemy getting possession of the high road 
 leading to Ciudad Rodrigo, the position of the Arapiles was 
 also abandoned, and the whole Army moved upon that Road. 
 About noon it commenced raining in torrents, which did not 
 cease during the whole Afternoon & Evening ; the Army 
 bivouacked about two Leagues from Salamanca on the Ciudad 
 Rodrigo Road. — The Morning of the i6th was equally wet, 
 but it cleared in the course of the day ; the Army marched in 
 two Columns ; we were in the left Column, & had the Rear 
 Guard, we marched three leagues, & halted in a wood near the 
 Village of Martilla. We were not annoyed by the Enemy 
 during our march, but we had scarcely been an hour upon 
 our ground when they shewed themselves upon some heights, 
 & also in a place about a Mile in our front ; the 2d Divn. on 
 our right skirmished with them ; fortunately they had not any 
 Artillery up, & we therefore passed the Evening quietly.
 
 171 
 
 At 4 o'clock on the morning of the 17th we continued our 
 retreat ; the weather was again dreadful, & the roads in 
 consequence scarcely passable ; after marching three leagues 
 we halted near the Village of San Munoz, at which place there 
 is a Ford over a River ; the object of our halt was to cover 
 the retreat of Baggage & Stragglers, as also the rear of the 
 right Column, which had to pass at this Ford. The Enemy 
 pressed us a good deal at this place, & brought up about 
 twenty pieces of Artillery on some heights opposite to us. 
 There was some severe skirmishing during the Afternoon, in 
 which we lost some Officers & about an hundred & fifty Men ; 
 but we had this day particularly to lament the loss of Sir 
 Edw. Paget who very recently came out to this Country as 
 second in Command ; he was passing from one Divn. to 
 another, unconscious of any danger, when a party of French 
 Dragoons surprised him & carried him off ; they also possessed 
 themselves of a great deal of Baggage, & amongst others the 
 whole of the Baggage of Lord Dalhousie lately arrived, was 
 taken. After everything had crossed the Ford, we marched 
 half a league, & bivouacked for the night near the village of 
 Abrillas : the rain continued so heavy that we were literally 
 up to our Ancles in Mud & Water. — On the i8th the weather 
 was better ; our march this day was four leagues & a half ; 
 we halted on the side of a Hill half a League on this side the 
 Village of Tenebron. Most fortunately for the 4th Division 
 the enemy did not press us this day, or we must have suffered 
 dreadfully from their Artillery ; we had to wait on the top of 
 a Hill several hours, to cover the retreat of other Divisions 
 who cut in upon us, and from this Hill had the Enemy 
 pursued us they would have had the finest opportunity in the 
 world of annoying us, as after descending it we had an 
 extensive plain to cross, which for two miles would have been 
 completely within the range of their Artillery. — On the 19th 
 we marched only a League and a half and bivouacked in a 
 Wood one League from Ciudad Rodrigo, at which place 
 Head Quarters had arrived the preceding Day. There was
 
 172 
 
 [1812] no small degree of consternation prevailing there, from the 
 [Nov.] circumstance of the breach (which had been entirely repaired) 
 • having given way from the violence of the late rains. The 
 
 people were however soon tranquilized on finding that the 
 Enemy were ceasing to follow us ; in fact they were as 
 completely exhausted as ourselves and in consequence 
 incapable of further annoying us. — On the 20th the Rains 
 again commenced with all their former violence ; the march 
 of the Divn. was this Day a most painful one, four Leagues 
 & a half through almost impassable Roads : we bivouacked on 
 the very same ground that we were on on the loth [of] June 
 last, when the Army was concentrating for the purpose of 
 proceeding against Salamanca. — On the 21st we went into 
 Cantonments, the Head Quarters of the Division being at 
 Villa de Ciervo, the same place they were in on the 21st 
 November last. These Cantonments however are considered 
 merely temporary, it being understood that we shall proceed 
 in a few days to occupy winter Cantonments in the direction 
 of the Douro for the purpose of being nearer our supplies. — 
 On reviewing the late retreat there is certainly cause of much 
 mortification. After so splendid a campaign results more 
 brilliant were doubtlessly expected ; at the same time it is but 
 fair to take the whole campaign, and not look only to the last 
 two months as is the case with many ; if the question is fairly 
 put, what has Lord W. done this campaign ? the answer as 
 fairly is ; he has secured the two keys of Portugal ; raised the 
 siege of Cadiz, cleared the South of Spain ; destroyed the 
 French Magazines at Madrid, and fed his army five months 
 on those supplies which otherwise would have been possessed 
 by the Enemy. In point of what is called military luck Lord 
 W. has lately not had his usual good fortune ; had the rains 
 when we were at Madrid set in two days earlier, the Enemy 
 could not have crossed the Tagus, & thus the junction of their 
 Armies would have been prevented ; again had they com- 
 menced two days sooner than they did at Salamanca, they 
 could not have passed the Tormes, and instead of having that
 
 173 
 
 River for their line they must of necessity have retrograded 
 as far as the Dome. Every effort was made by his Lordship 
 to save Salamanca, but such is the nature of the Positions on 
 this side of the River that an Enemy with a superior force 
 can at all times turn them. Lord W. calculates the force 
 opposed to him, consisting of the united Armies of Joseph, 
 Marmont & Soult at an hundred thousand Men ; their Cavalry 
 alone amounted to eight thousand ; ours can scarcely be 
 estimated at five thousand. It may not be irrevelant here to 
 notice the melancholy falling off from that dash & spirit 
 which formerly distinguished our Cavalry ; this lamentable 
 dereliction from what they were is not attributed to any 
 degeneracy in the Men, but to the incapacity, not to add, 
 want of courage, of many of their Generals. I have long 
 forborne to notice this circumstance ; but it has become so 
 notorious, that there is scarcely a Dinner party, or assemblage 
 of persons where military matters are at all discussed, where 
 the conduct of our Cavalry Generals is not spoken of with 
 disgust & contempt. 
 
 The late retreat will long be remembered for its excessive 
 severity ; if I mistake not the Gazettes will in a short time be 
 abundantly productive of resignations in consequence of it. 
 There are various opinions as to the amount of the loss the 
 allied Army sustained in the retreat, but I think myself it may 
 very fairly be estimated at two thousand. Many of these 
 perished on the road from the excessive severity of the weather : 
 of those picked up by the Enemy a good many may be expected 
 to escape. 
 
 Head Quarters of the Army moved on the 24th from Ciudad 
 Rodrigo to their old station at Frenada, and there it is probable 
 they will remain during the Winter. If we are quite three or 
 four Months in Quarters, the Army will agam become respect- 
 able in point of numbers. It is rumoured that it is the intention 
 of Ministers to send every Man they can muster to this country 
 and, if affairs continue to go on well in Russia, we shall I trust
 
 174 
 
 [1812] next Year be in a state to commence another brilliant 
 f °^J Campaign, & which in its consequences, will prove more 
 fortunate than the one we have just concluded. The Enemy 
 are not nearer to us than Salamanca, & it appears that Joseph, 
 not willing to trust himself with the good people of Madrid, 
 has for the present established his Court at Valladolid. — The 
 weather has set in frosty, & promises to be fine for some time. 
 
 [Dec] Deer. 4th. On the Evening of the 26th our Route arrived, 
 
 and on the morning of the 27th we commenced our march for 
 our old Cantonment, San Joao de Pesqueira ; our route lay as 
 follows : — 
 
 27th. Junca. 
 
 28th. Azinhal. 
 
 29th. Laminas. 
 
 30th. Sant' Euphemia. 
 Dec. I St. Manilva. 
 
 2nd. Sedevin. 
 3rd. San Joao de Pesqueira. 
 Nothing could be more miserable than our accommodation 
 during the whole march, and even here at Pesqueira we are 
 anything but comfortable, tho' only one Regiment is here with 
 the Headquarters of the Divn. It is probable we shall remain 
 at least a period of three Months, & under that presumption 
 Chimnies are building in all the Houses, where it is possible to 
 persuade the owners of them to add this species of Comfort, a 
 case frequently of great difficulty. It is to be understood that 
 the expence attending the building of a Fireplace is always paid 
 by the Officer ; five times out of six the Chimnies are destroyed 
 by the owners of the Houses immediately on our quitting them . 
 
 17th. This place affords no matter for a Journal ; it has 
 rained incessantly ever since we have been here nor is there any 
 prospect of better weather. 
 
 Lord W. is gone to Cadiz to consult with the Regency as 
 is supposed in his Capacity of Generalissimo, the plan of the 
 next Campaign, & enforce by his presence the adoption of such 
 preparations as in the meantime may be requisite.
 
 175 
 
 It appears that the Enemy only remained four days in 
 Madrid ; they abandoned it on the 6th Ulto. & had not again 
 occupied it on the 25th. There is reason however to believe 
 
 that they have since entered it. 
 
 [1813] 
 
 [Jan.] Jan. 5th. The Enemy reoccupied IVIadrid on the 3d Ulto. 
 
 but, from the complexion of affairs in the North, there is every 
 reason to hope that in a very short time they will feel themselves 
 obliged to withdraw their Army from the Peninsula ; four 
 thousand Cavalry have already gone to France. 
 
 Lord W. arrived at Cadiz on the 24th Ulto. and is to 
 return via Lisbon, where great preparations are making for his 
 reception and where he is idolized as little less than a Divinity. 
 
 The frost set in here on Christmas Day, and has continued 
 more or less ever since ; there appears little difference in the 
 Climate here and in England ; the only advantage here is that 
 at midday there is more Sun. 
 
 1 2th. Already the successes of the Russians begin to 
 appear in this Country ; the Enemy have abandoned the line 
 of the Tormes and we hear they are mining Burgos and preparing 
 again to evacuate the Capital ; it is confidently said they have 
 commenced defiling a large body of Infantry to France. 
 Lord W. is expected at Hd. Qrs. on the 17th. 
 
 [Feb.] February ist. Lord W. arrived at Frenada on the 25th. 
 
 Nothing respecting the object of his journey to Cadiz has tran- 
 spired, but whatever it may have been, it is said his wishes 
 have not been realized by the Regency at Cadiz. 
 
 The Enemy it appears still occupy the Tormes, but in less 
 force ; various accounts from Spain make it appear probable 
 that they have it in contemplation to retire beyond the Ebro. 
 
 The Weather continues very cold, and the number of sick 
 is still considerable; the Army is yet very far from being in a 
 state to take the Field. It is probable we shall not move from 
 our Cantonments for at least these two Months.
 
 176 
 
 [1813] 14th. I left Pesqueira on the 2d for Lamego, where I 
 
 [Feb.] arrived on the 4th, & where I still remain, being on Evidence 
 on a General Court Martial sitting on Lieut. Colonel Archdale, 
 40th Regiment. — Lamego is a Town of considerable Population, 
 situated near the Douro, & is a Bishop's See ; I am quartered 
 in his Palace ; he is a very unostentatious old man, but is said 
 to be the most charitable Man alive ; so greatly is he venerated 
 that it is reported, on his death, he will be canonized. 
 
 The Cathedral is handsome, but the same levity I have 
 observed amongst the Priests in other places prevails here 
 also. 
 
 Notwithstanding the entire destruction of the French Army 
 in the North, it does not appear that the Enemy have as yet 
 commenced any retrograde movements. It will indeed be extra- 
 ordinary if they maintain their present ground during the 
 ensuing Campaign. 
 
 25th. The Court Martial did not terminate till the 22d, 
 on which day I quitted Lamego, & arrived at Pesqueira 
 yesterday. 
 
 The worthy old Bishop & myself became extremely intimate 
 during my stay at his house ; he possesses many virtues, but is 
 extremely bigoted ; he assured me of his entire belief in the near 
 fulfilment of a Prophecy, which states that about this time the 
 whole world will be brought over to the true faith, which 
 faith of course in his idea is the Catholic. 
 
 This day I give over all the Papers relating to my Situa- 
 tion in the Division to a Gentleman appointed to succeed 
 me. — By the unsolicited kindness of Dr. McGregor I have 
 leave of absence from the 4th Inst, for two Months to England ; 
 I will not here attempt to describe the thousand fond feelings 
 the anticipation of revisiting that land of happiness is calcu- 
 lated to arouse in every breast possessed of common Sensi- 
 bility ; they are indeed inexplicable.
 
 177 
 
 [March] March 2d. On the 26th Ulto. I quitted Pesqueira, Genl. 
 
 Cole having the day before received an order to have the 
 Divn. in readiness to march. I remained that night at 
 Sedevin with my old Friends of the 40th. The following Day 
 I rode four Leagues to a Village called Villar where I remained 
 with my Friend Col. Carr of the 83d ; before leaving Sedevin, 
 they were apprized that the Division was to march on the 
 28th, but they were ignorant of their destination, tho' it was 
 supposed to be the Neighbourhood of the Coa or Agueda. On 
 the 28th my route was to Pedrosos, five Leagues ; and on 
 the 6th March I reached Vizeu, three leagues. Vizeu is a 
 large Town and is a Bishop's See ; the Cathedral has nothing 
 in it worthy of Notice ; the Town is not at present occupied 
 by Troops but is a General Hospl. Station, containing about 
 twelve hundred Sick ; the Guards in Vizeu & the neighbour- 
 hood have in the last two or three months lost six hundred 
 men by sickness.— This morning I quitted Vizeu, and came to 
 a large village called Tondella, three Leagues through a 
 beautiful Country ; the Weather set in fine the day I left 
 Pesqueira, & has continued delightful ever since. 
 
 6th. On the 3d my route was four Leagues to a Village 
 called Mortiagoa where I was well accommodated in the house 
 of the Padre Prior of the place.— On the 4th another four 
 Leagues to a village called Mealhada ; this day I passed over 
 the Sierra of Busaco where the Action was fought in Septem- 
 ber 1810 ; the unburied Bones of the French still point out 
 the place of Combat, & will remain an everlasting Monument 
 of the rashness of their Commander. Yesterday I reached 
 Coimbra, three Leagues. This place has suffered very little 
 from the incursion of the French ; it is the third Town in 
 Portugal and has a very fine Cathedral, which however is not 
 well finished. Notwithstanding it is so large a Town there is 
 a greater difficulty in procuring a Billet in it, than any other 
 Town in the Country, though the people have suffered less 
 almost than any other ; I look upon them as the most uncivil 
 in Portugal, perhaps with the exception of those of Lisbon.
 
 178 
 
 [1813] This day I have only come two Leagues, to a town called 
 
 [March] Condeixa formerly one of the prettiest in Portugal, but which 
 
 now exhibits a memorable instance of French barbarity, 
 
 scarcely a single house remaining ; when I last passed thro' 
 
 it, it was in flames. 
 
 8th. Yesterday I halted at Pombal, & this day at Leyria. 
 Both places are nearly a heap of Ruins, but are beginning 
 somewhat to recover themselves. The Cathedral here is 
 undergoing repair as fast as circumstances will admit ; it was 
 only half destroyed ; the walls only of the Bishop's Palace 
 are remaining ; but he lives here notwithstanding in a small 
 house. — The horrors the Enemy committed especially on this 
 Road are not without their use ; the sight of them have had 
 their due effect upon the minds of the Portugueze Soldiery ; & 
 it is I verily believe a holy thirst of vengeance which keeps 
 them to their Colours ; for were it not with them a war of 
 feeling it would be idle to suppose they would remain consoli- 
 dated with the miserable Pay & feeding they receive. — The 
 weather continues delightfully fine, but the heat already for 
 three or four hours in the Day is becoming oppressive. 
 
 27th. The long interval since my last has been occasioned 
 by illness; on the gth I proceeded to a small Inn, four Leagues, 
 where I got tolerably well accommodated. — On the loth I set 
 off for Alcoentre, six Leagues ; on reaching Rio Mayor, four 
 Leagues, 1 felt myself extremely unwell with the usual 
 Symptoms of Fever ; notwithstanding I proceeded on my 
 journey, & reached Alcoentre, where I was obliged to go 
 immediately to Bed. — The following Morning (nth) feeling a 
 little better, I mounted my Horse, & with some difficulty 
 reached Villa Franca on the Tagus, & distant from Lisbon 
 five Leagues. In the Evening of the same I availed myself 
 of a Boat going down to Lisbon, & arrived at Lisbon that 
 night at half past Eleven, extremely ill ; where with the 
 utmost difficulty I succeeded in procuring a Bed. The next 
 day (i2th) I made several ineffectual attempts to procure a
 
 179 
 
 Billet, & was shocked at the pitiful evasions made at the 
 several houses at which I presented my Billets. It appeared 
 to me there was a degree of ingratitude in their conduct 
 (considering it is to the British they are indebted that the 
 French do not at this moment occupy Lisbon) which ought to 
 be held up to everlasting execration, not because it happened 
 to myself, but as it is notorious that a sick Officer constantly 
 finds the same difficulty in Lisbon in making good his Billet. 
 At length, in a state of absolute exhaustion from fatigue, I had 
 the good fortune to meet a most particular friend in the 
 Person of a Mr. Guthrie, at the Head of the Medical Depart- 
 ment here, who immediately brought me to his house & had a 
 comfortable Bed prepared for me, from which I did not rise 
 till the 24th. — My disease was the Bilious Remittent Fever of 
 the country, and I feel it is owing to the unremitting attention 
 & judicious treatment of Mr. G. that I am indebted to my 
 early recovery from a Complaint which was ushered in in its 
 attack by Symptoms of peculiar violence. 
 
 I am now convalescent, & tho' in a state of great debility, 
 shall I doubt not speedily regain my wonted strength. In the 
 meantime my delay at the Court Martial at Lamego, Journey 
 down, & subsequent illness have together spun out my leave 
 to within one week of its termination ; I feel I shall not be 
 able to embark before its expiration and to [do] it afterwards 
 without a further extension would be an act of manifest 
 impropriety. I have therefore this day written to Hd. 
 Quarters on the subject, and I cannot for a moment bring 
 myself to doubt that by any possibility a further indulgence 
 will be denied me. — I therefore still fondly anticipate being in 
 England by the 20th of the ensuing Month. 
 
 [Apr.] April 9th- On the 28th Ulto. at Night I had the 
 
 misfortune to experience a relapse, and tho' short in duration 
 my Fever was scarcely less violent than the preceding One ; 
 I have now been several days Convalescent, & the two last
 
 i8o 
 
 [1813] days have been able to ride out on Horseback ; notwithstand- 
 [ PR ] ing^ I regain my strength very slowly — My leave to England 
 is now beyond the caprice of any individual, a Medical Board 
 having recommended me there for the recovery of health. — A 
 convoy is expected to sail about the 14th, and with it, God 
 willing, I hope to take my passage to that land where all my 
 wishes centre. 
 
 25th. After making every arrangement to go home in 
 a transport, an offer of a passage in the Impeteux of 78 Guns 
 (the Convoying Ship) was made me, & I accordingly embarked 
 in her on the 17th at Night. On the Morning of the i8th we 
 got under weigh with near sixty sail, and in the course of the 
 day entirely lost sight of Lisbon. Notwithstanding that it is 
 certainly a handsome City, I dislike it more than any place 
 I was ever in, and this altogether from the want of cleanliness 
 of its Inhabitants. — The last few days I was there afforded 
 me an opportunity of witnessing their most splendid pro- 
 cessions, & Church services (it being Passion week) ; some 
 of the Music was really beautiful, being entirely executed by 
 public Performers. 
 
 Since we have been at sea, we have been almost constantly 
 baffled by contrary winds ; we are now out a week, and are 
 only this day in Lat. 40. 29. Our prospect is however at 
 present better, as we are now very nearly able to lie on our 
 course. — Our Mess in the Ward room consists of twenty four, 
 & much good humour prevails ; the monotony of the Passage 
 is a good deal relieved by the bustle that always exists in a 
 Ship of this size.— We have had a good deal of hard blowing 
 with a high running sea, but hitherto I have not at all suffered 
 from sea-sickness. — The day after quitting the Tagus, we fell 
 in with the Pomona, having Sir Thos. Graham, & other 
 General Officers on board for the Army under Lord W. — 
 The Impeteux is commanded by a Captain Bateman who to 
 much professional knowledge adds a temper of the most 
 conciliatory nature, & is much beloved by his Officers. The
 
 i8i 
 
 latter are particularly civil to all their Guests ; indeed the 
 perfect harmony subsisting between them & the Military on 
 board evinces how entirely the two professions are qualified to 
 esteem each the other. 
 
 [May] May 3d. We this morning at daylight made Scilly, & 
 
 as the wind appears likely to blow for some time from the 
 Eastward, the Commodore has determined upon that 
 Anchorage, till a change takes place ; this is a severe 
 disappointment to all as we may be detained there a very long 
 time ; as we are at present to leeward of the Roadstead, it is 
 uncertain whether we shall be able to get in to-day. 
 
 7th. We anchored late on the 3d in St Mary's Roadstead. 
 On the following Morning, the Wind being fair, signal was 
 again made to weigh ; we had time however to go ashore, and 
 visit the Capital of the Scilly Islands; it is rather [a] pretty 
 place, & the neatness & cleanliness of the Houses could not 
 fail to strike a Person who had lived near four years in the 
 Peninsula. 
 
 We were scarcely out of the Roadstead, when the Wind 
 again shifted to the Eastward, and we have since been beating 
 about the Channel ; we are at present off Plymouth, & the 
 wind being at South, we are just enabled to lie our Course : 
 there is however little of it. — We may possibly reach Spithead 
 to-morrow, but our passage hitherto has been so unfortunate, 
 that I am afraid to hope such will be the case ; had we not 
 had Convoy with us, we should have been at the end of our 
 passage upwards of a week since. Notwithstanding the many 
 advantages a Man of War possesses over a Transport I will 
 confess that my Philosophy was never put to such severe trials 
 as it has been the last few days — What sickness so painful, 
 as that sickness of the heart which ariseth from hope 
 deferred.
 
 CHARLES BOUTFLOWER 
 
 (F.R.C.S.) 
 
 was the fourth son of the Reverend John Boutflower, Vicar of Seamer, 
 Yorkshire, his mother being Susanna, daughter of Samuel Peach, of 
 Chalford, Gloucestershire. He was born at Enfield, Middlesex, 
 2 February, 1782, and received his training for the medical profession 
 from his eldest brother, Mr. John Johnson Boutflower of Manchester, 
 and at the University of Edinburgh. At the close of the year 1801, he 
 joined the 40th Regiment, then at Malta, as an assistant Surgeon. He 
 served with his Regiment in the West Indies and South America, and 
 afterwards during the Peninsula War, obtaining promotion as Surgeon to 
 the staff of Sir Rowland Hill's Brigade, 9 November, 1812. In 1813 he 
 married Charlotte, daughter of the Rev. John Douglas, D.D., sometime 
 Fellow of Magdalene College, Oxford. Retiring from the service in 1815, 
 he practised as a Surgeon in Colchester for a period of nineteen years, 
 removing in 1834 to Liverpool, where he at once interested himself in his 
 new surroundings and became in course of time a Town Councillor. He 
 was chosen as a Member of a Committee to take in hand the drainage of 
 Liverpool, in his attention te which duty, he contracted typhoid fever, 
 and died 24 March, 1844. 
 
 Mr. Boutflower was described by his sons and nephews, as a man of 
 great activity, and a general favourite with all his acquaintances. He 
 was keenly interested in his professional work, and in this and beyond it 
 his ambition was to be accounted a faithful public servant.
 
 MANCHESTKR 
 REFUGE PRINTING DEPARTMENT, STRANGEWAVS, 
 
 1913,
 
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