HOTEL
ETROPOLE
NORTHUMBERLAND AVENUE
Axn
Whitehall ."Place, Trafalgar Square.
LONDON, ENGLAND,
IS ONE OF TIIK
LARGEST IN EUROPE,
all that Modern Improvements can
the Comfort and Convenience of Guest
PARIS,
12 Boulevard des Capucines,
CAREFULLY REORGANIZED BY THE NEW MANAGEMENT.
ELECTRIC LIGHT, WINTER GARDEN.
7OO Rooms and Saloons, from. 5 franco.
REDUCED TARIFF.
BREAKFASTS from 11 to 1 o'clock, 5 francs ; Wine, Coffee, and
Liqueur-Brandy included.
CONCERT DINNERS
At 6.30 o'clock, 8 francs; Wine Included.
CAFI': AND RESTAURANT. WITH OPEN TF.RltACE.
CAFE-DIVAN'. BILLIARDS. SMOKING-ROOM ; FOREIGN NEWSPAPERS ;
I'OST AND TELEGRAPH OFFICE: TICKET OFFICE FOR RE-
H:KYI:D SKATS FOR ALL TIIKATUKS; BATHS; LIFT.
ADVANTAGEOUS CONDITIONS FOR A LONG STAY.
' The CAVKS HI' CHANT) HOTEL (Wine Collars), at V2 Boulevard des Capucinps. under tin-
Hotel. (-(mstitntP 01 i most ivlhililo wiin- tra<les in Paris. The very ln-si WIIK-S
of all noted cr/.. and at very inodorato rates, are delivered iu qtianlities of. from one bottk- to
11 Pans. Europe, and America. The Company bottle wine at purchaser-
THE LANGHAM HOTEL
Portland Place, London, W.
Tins Hotel s.tuated in the most healthy and convenient position ii
London, has been recently redecorated throughout, and now combine
the modern improvements to be found in first-class establishments.
Postal and Telegraphic Offices, and large Hair-Cutting Saloon, ir
the building.
Telephonic Communication with all the Leading Business Houses
The Best Table d'Hote and the Finest Smoking-Room in London.
Steam Laundry on the premises.
TELEGRAPHIC REGISTER OF ALL THE LATEST NEWS.
A SELECT BAND PI, AYS EVERY
From six to half-past eight.
X . R The precautions against fire are all that human forethought
can devise Four experienced firemen are on duty dav and nio-ht and
a patent electric lire-alarm enables a visitor or servant to rail the fire-
lien immediately, as it indicates in all parts of the huildino- simul-
taneously the instant an accident occurs, and where it take's place
the corridors and staircases are fire-proof, and there are six exits
from the Hotel.
British and Foreign Railway Tickets may be procured in the Hotel,
and passages booked and luggage forwarded to all parts
of the Globe-CAYGILL & CO., Agents.
The " Lankan!" Special Omnibuses arc available for the conveyance of
t then- Iqggage to and from the various Metropolitan Jiuihvav St':
VISITORS KKCEIVKD AT A KlXKI) Sr.M 1>KK I>IKM.
W. B, Wedding Breakfasts, Regimental and Private Dinners,
All communications, &c., to be n<i
W. CLEATHER GORDON, Manager.
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THE AMERICAN TRAVELLER'S GUIDE.
HARPER'S HAND-BOOK
FOR
TRAVELLERS IN EUROPE
AND THE EAST:
BEING A GUIDE THROUGH
GREAT BRITAIN AND IRELAND, FRANCE, BELGIUM, HOLLAND, GERMANY, AUSTRIA,
ITALY, EGYPT, SYRIA, TURKEY, GREECE, SWITZERLAND, TYROL, DEN-
MARK, NORWAY, SWEDEN, RUSSIA, SPAIN, AND PORTUGAL.
BY W. PEMBROKE FETRIDGE, M.S.G.,
AUTHOR OF "THE EISB AJSD FALL OF THB PARIS COMMTTNE," "UABPER'S MEASE-BOOK,'' ETC.
WITH ONE HUNDRED AND FIFTEEN MAPS AND PLANS OF CITIES,
IN THREE VOLUMES.
VOLUME II.
GKRHAXY, AUSTRIA, ITALY, EGYPT, SYRIA, TURKEY, A>D GREECE.
TWENTY -FOURTH YEAR.
NEW YORK: HARPER & BROTHERS, PUBLISHERS.
PARIS: LANEE, 8 RUE DE LA PAIX. GALIGNANT & CO., 254 RUE RIVOLI.
W. W. }. ADAMS & SOXS, 59 FLEET STREET.-SAMPSOX LOW, MARSTON, & CO.
Flortnce, (JOODBAJI. Rome, PIALE.
Frankfort, UMITRSAL RKISK-BI-BSAU. Vienna, GKKOLD & Co. Berlin, ASHZK & Co.
1885.
THE Author of "Harper's Hand-books" wishes to inform all Hotel-keepers
that favorable notices of their houses can not be obtained by purchase ; that
complaints of dishonesty or inattention, properly substantiated, will cause their
houses to be stricken from the list of good establishments.
Favors from Travelers. Although the Author of "Harper's Hand-books" has
made arrangements to keep it as perfect as possible, and purposes devoting his
time to that purpose, he would still be under many obligations to Travelers if they
personally note any inaccuracies or omissions, and transmit them to him, at 13
Arenue du Bois de Boulogne, Paris.
iST Advertisers wishing to discontinue their advertisements must inform the
Publishers on or before the 1st of January in each year, that the necessary altera-
tions may be made in time for the New Edition.
Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1885, by
HARPER & BROTHERS,
In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington.
STACK ANNQt
ID
PREFACE
TO THE TWENTY-FOURTH YEAR.
THE success of "Harper's Hand-books" for over twenty-
years has stimulated the author and publishers to renewed exer-
tions to make it the most correct and useful work of the kind
published. The author, who resides in Europe, spent most of
the year 1884 in Great Britain, Ireland, France, and Spain, 1883
in Italy and the East, and 1882 in Belgium, Holland, Germany,
Austria, Great Britain, and France. All of these countries have
been entirely rewritten, :is well as the whole of Vol. II., contain-
ing Germany, Austria, Italy, and the East, while most important
additions and corrections have been made in the descriptions of
other countries, which will be found to vary materially from the
edition of 1884.
The vast amount of matter now collected has made it necessary
to divide the woi'k into three volumes, the carrying of which will
be found more convenient to the tourist.
The corrections are all brought down to January, 1885, which
is several years later than the date of any European Hand-book
of travel. The advantages of this are evident. New lines of
railway are constantly opened, bringing desirable places of resort
into easy communication with each other, which before were sep-
arated by days of uncomfortable posting.
While every effort has been made to secure absolute correct-
ness in the work, the author is fully aware of the difficulty of at-
taining perfection in this respect. As the London Spectator, in
its review of the edition of 1871, justly observed, "The labor and
incessant attention required to mark the changes of every year
must be a severe strain on any man's faculties." The corrections
and additions amount to several thousand every year; but the
author is confident that no important errors have escaped his ob-
servation, and that the information gathered with so much labor
MO PREFACE.
will be found to be correct in every essential particular. An ex-
cellent new map of Switzerland has been expressly engraved, with
sixty-nine different routes marked thereon ; also four smaller maps
of Switzerland. A large map of Sweden, Denmark, and Norway,
with numerous plans of cities, added last year, have been supple-
mented by a similar map of England, one of Scotland, and one of
Ireland ; also a large map of France, Germany, Italy, and Spain,
with two hundred and thirty-four routes marked thereon, making
in all four hundred and thirty-nine routes, with time and expense
given, some general information on the United States of America
not included. Plans are given of all the principal cities in these
countries.
A new general map of Europe has been substituted for the old
one. The Hand-books now contain one hundred and twenty
maps, plans, and diagrams of countries, cities, routes, and objects
of interest three times as many as are given in any other Hand-
book of travel.
W. P. F.
PREFACE
TO THE TWENTY-FOURTH YEAR'S ISSUE OF "HARPER'S HAND-
BOOKS FOR TRAVELERS IN EUROPE AND THE EAST."
THE remarkable success of "Harper's Hand-book, "first published in 1862, has
fully realized the expectations of both author and publishers, the instance being
very rare where a traveler has crossed the Atlantic without a copy in his possession
or in that of one of his party. The reason of this great success is very evident ; it
is not compiled from hearsay and books which are out of date, and of no possible
use to the traveler, but prepared by the author every year from his personal expe-
rience up to the moment of going to press, his time in Europe being wholly devoted
to that purpose. The greater portion of these volumes is entirely new, and dis-
tinct from the last year's edition, while the residue has been revised and corrected
up to the present moment.
To travel without a guide-book in any part of Europe is utterly impossible ; a
man without one being like a ship at sea without a compass dragged round the
country by a courier, and touching only at such points as it is the courier's interest
to touch. You should purchase guide-books or remain at home.
The great objection to foreign guide-books is their number. To make the tour
of Europe (even a short one of a few months), the traveler has formerly been com-
pelled to purchase some twenty-five or thirty volumes if published in the English
language, at a cost of sixty or seventy dollars, and suffer the inconvenience of
carrying some twenty-five pounds of extra baggage, and over one hundred vol-
umes if in the French language, one house alone in Paris publishing one
hundred and twenty volumes. As the majority of American travelers do not re-
main over six months on the Continent, they dislike to be compelled to carry
about a small library, when with the aid of a good Railway Guide and the present
volumes all their wants may be supplied.
The intention of the author of " Harper's Hand-books " is to give a distinct and clear
description of the best manner of visiting the principal cities and loading places of
interest in France, Germany, Austria, Russia, Turkey, Italy, Egypt, Syria. Palestine,
Switzerland, Tyrol, Denmark, Norway, Sweden, Spain, Great Britain, and Ireland;
to give the modes and cost of traveling the different routes by land and water, and
which lines are to be preferred ; the precautions to be taken to insure comfort and
security ; names and charges of the leading hotels ; the most responsible houses from
542 PREFACE.
which to make purchases ; all the items in reference to the transportation of bag-
gage, and the innumerable number of small charges which tend to swell the ac-
count of traveling expenses. By a careful attention to the tariff in such cases,
the traveler will find himself the gainer by fifty per cent.
The author also intends to give the names of the principal works of art by the
leading masters in all the different European galleries, with the fees expected by
the custodians. In short, he intends to place before the traveler a good net-work
of historical and other facts, pointing out where the reader may obtain fuller in-
formation if he desire it.
Of course it is impossible for perfect accuracy to be obtained in a work of this
description ; for while the author is watching the completion of the beautiful
mosque of Mehemet AH in Cairo, or the exquisite restorations that are being
made at the Alhambra in Granada, a new bridge may be erected at St. Peters-
burg, or a new hotel opened at Constantinople; but- to keep the information con-
tained herein as nearly accurate as possible, the author, in addition to having
made arrangements in the different cities to keep him acquainted with any im-
portant changes that may be made, requests that all mistakes or omissions noticed
by travelers may be transmitted to 13 Avenue du Bois de Boulogne, Paris, for
which he will be extremely thankful.
CONTENTS OF VOL. II.
For full Particulars of Routes, Historical Sketches, Excursions, small Cities, Towns,
etc^ see General Index at the End of this Volume.
EMPIRE OF GERMANY Page 547
Berliu,561; Potsdam, 573 ; Hildesheim, 577; Hanover, 577 ; Minden,579; Rebmee,
680; Oberhutisen, 5SO: Wesel, 681 ; Diisseldorf, 581 ; Cologne, 682; Aix-la-Chapelle,
685; Brandenburg, 5S7 ; Magdeburg, 5S7; Duchy of Brunswick, 5SS; Her/berg,
5<-2; Steiuheim, 593 ; Hamburg, 606; L'ibeck, 596; SchleswiL', 598 ; Schwerin, 599 ;
Bremen, 601 ; Stettin, 603 : Danzig, 604; Kunigsberg, 607 ; Frankfort. COS ; Bres-
lau, 609 ; Route No. 156, 610 ; Route No. 157, 612 : Route No. 15S, 614 ; Wittenberg,
616; Dessau, 617; Leipzig, 61U; Weimar, tj-J-_'; Gotha, 623: Frankfort, 625; Hom-
burg, 627; Ratisbon, 030; Saxony, C3-.' : Dresden, 633 ; Kis^iiigeu, 641 ; Nurem-
berg, 643 : Munich, 648; Stuttgart, MB ; Btraabnrg, 870 ; Constance, 73 ; Worth,
675; Saarbruck, 677 ; Bonn, 680 ; Cobleutz, 6S3 ; Mayeuce, 692 ; Darmstadt, 696 ;
Baden-Baden, 700 ; Wildbad, 703.
AUSTRIA 704
Vienna, 708 ; Prague, 722 ; Salzburg, 729 ; Trieste, 731 ; Presburg, 734 ; Pesth, 735;
Varna, 738 ; Baths of Gleicheuberg, 740.
ITALY 741
Rentes and Passes into Italy, 741 ; Venice, 757 ; Padua, 771 ; Verona, 773 ; Milan,
780 ; Como, 787 ; Turin, 792 ; Genoa, 799 ; Mantua, 805 ; Pisa, 809 ; Bologna, 815 ;
Ancoua, 822; Florence, 826; Civita Vecchia, 842; Rome, 846; Naples, Si5; Pses-
tum, 883 ; Vesuvius, 884 ; Pompeii, 886 ; Ischia, 891 ; Mileto, 893 ; Scylla, 893 ;
Taranto, 894.
SICILY AND MALTA 895
Sicily, 895; Palermo, 897; Syracuse, 901 ; Messina, 903; Catania, 904; Malta, 906;
Valetta, 910; Catacombs of St. Paul, 915.
EGYPT 916
The Nile, 917 ; Alexandria, 919 ; Cairo, 921 ; The Pyramids, 926 : Instructions for a
Voyage to Upper Egypt, 930 ; BeiiiBOoef, 935 ; Thebes, 939 ; Edfoo, 941 ; Phils, 943 ;
Aboo-Simbel, 944.
THE DESERT 945
Suez, 945 ; Tours from Cairo, 946.
SYRIA AND PALESTINE 953
Jaffa, 955 ; Jerusalem, 956 ; Bethlehem, 967 ; Dead Sea, 969 ; Nazareth, 973 ; Damas-
cus, 976 ; Tyre, 979 ; Cyprus, 981 ; Ephesns, 982.
TURKEY AND GREECE 983
Smyrna, 9S3; Constantinople, 984; Isles of Greece, 990 ; Athens, 993; ^Egina,995;
Coriuth, 997 ; Mount Parnassus, 999 ; Tripolitza, 1000 ; Pylos, 1002.
TABLE OF COINS 1003
INDEX.
MAPS AND PLANS OF CITIES IN VOL. II.
Ancona, 822.
Augsburg, 663.
Austria, 704.
Berlin, 861.
Bologna, 816.
Bonn, CSO.
Cairo, 921.
Carlsruhe, TOO.
Coblentz, 684.
Cologne, 582.
Dresden, 633.
Egypt and Northern Nubia, 916.
Europe, in Cover.
Ferrara, 807.
Florence, 826.
the Ufflzi Gallery, 831.
Frankfort, 626.
Genoa, 799.
Germany, General Map, in Cover, and p. 548.
Greece and the Ionian Islands, 990.
Hamburg, 595.
Harwich Route, 647.
Harz Mountains, 591.
Hessische Ludwigsbahn, 695.
Italian Lakes, 788.
Italy, General Map of, in Cover.
Jerusalem, 956.
Plan of the Holy Sepulchre, 962.
Mayence, 692.
Mantua, 805.
Mediterranean, the, and its Coasts, 884.
VOL. II. A 2
Metz, 676.
Milan, 730.
Moselle, from Treves to Coblentz, 685.
Munich, 649.
Naples, 875.
Museo Natiouale, 879.
Environs of, 882.
North Western of Austria Railway, 724.
Nuremberg, 643.
Palermo, 896.
Palestine, 953.
Pesth andOfen,735.
Pisa, 810.
Pompeii, 8SC.
Potsdam, the Emperor's Garden, 574
Prague, 720.
Rhine, the, from Basle to Baden, 679.
from Baden to Coblentz, 684.
from Coblentz to Diisseldorf, 681.
Rome, 846.
Ancient, 852.
the Forum, 850.
the Vatican, 860.
Strasburg, 670.
Thebes, 939.
Trieste, 731.
Turin, 792.
Turkey in Asia, 984.
in Europe, 984
Venice, 758.
Verona, 773.
Vienna, 708.
THE EMPIRE OF GERMANY.
POLITICAL DIVISIONS. [THE EMPIRE OF GERMANY.] POLITICAL DIVISIONS.
The startling events produced by tlio
Austrian and Prussian War of 1866, and
still later by the Franco-Prussian War of
1870 and 1871, have realized the fondest
dreams of German -writers and German
politicians, that of a common nationality.
The wildest hopes of Prussia have been
realized, and not only is Germany to-day
united (with the exception of that portion
which belongs to the Austrian Empire), but
two of France's most populous provinces,
viz., Alsace and Lorraine, comprising 5665
square miles (nearly one thousand square
miles larger than the State of Connecti-
cut), and containing over one and a half
million of inhabitants, have been added to
its territory. In addition to the territorial
conquest, France has been compelled to
pay live milliards of francs as a war in-
demnity, or enough to cancel all the regu-
lar debts of the empire (viz., 544,600,000
thalers), and the entire railroad debt of the
country, amounting to 576,000,000, leav-
ing a surplus in the treasury of nearly
236,000,000 dollars.
The modern German Empire was found-
ed on the basis of treaties concluded be-
tween the North German Confederation
and, 1st, the Grand-Duchy of Baden and
of Hesse, the loth of November, 1870; 2d,
the Kingdom of Bavaria, the 23d of Novem-
ber, 1870; 3d, the Kingdom of Wurtem-
berg, the 25th of November, 1870. The
ratification of these treaties was exchanged
at Berlin on the 26th of January, 1871, and
adopted by decree of the 16th of April,
1871, and the Constitution of the United
German Empire was first put in force May
4th, 1871. The presidency of the empire
belongs to the crown of Prussia, and is
hereditary ; King William I., of Prussia,
accepted it at Versailles, January 18, 1871,
and issued an address to the German peo-
ple to that effect.
The imperial power is restrained in cer-
tain functions by the Reichstag (represent-
atives'), freely elected by the German peo-
ple. The Confederation of States form the
Empire, the fundamental points of which
are based on the Constitution of the North
German Confederation. The imperial
power exercises the exclusive right of leg-
islation on all military and marine affairs,
on the finances, commerce, post, railroads,
telegraph, and all interior matters con-
nected with the surveillance and inspec-
tion of the empire ; on all foreign and in-
ternational affairs, the right to declare
war and conclude peace in the name of
the empire ; to conclude alliances and oth-
er treaties with foreign powers ; to ac-
credit and receive all foreign representa-
tives ; to settle all subjects of dispute be-
I tween the federal states ; to have jurisdic-
tion over consuls, and in cases of high
treason.
The Federal States reserve to themselves
the right of issuing and regulating mon-
ey, weights, and measures ; of citizens to
change their domicile; the organization
of railroads, of municipal and commercial
legislation ; the right of procedure in crim-
inal and civil affairs ; of copyrights and
patents ; all matters connected with the
liberty of the public press and the right
of public meetings.
The army of the empire on a peace
footing is 427,274 men, and 81,629 horses,
of which there are 274,602 infantry, 65,512
cavalry, the remainder being composed of
other branches of the service ; on a war
footing there are 1,278,619 men, 31,646
officers, and 300,206 horses, the emperor
being commander -in -chief. Each sepa-
rate state of the confederation furnishes
its respective quota of men and horses
for the imperial army.
The navy comprises 55 vessels of vari-
ous sizes (8 of which are not yet com-
pleted), 42 steam and 5 sail, carrying 484
guns of different calibre.
The receipts and expenses of the gov-
ernment are a little over $148,000,000 per
annum.
The following states compose the Ger.
man Empire, with their population in 1873
547
POLITICAL DIVISIONS. [THE EMPIRE OF GERMANY.]
Arm in
Enjrlish
sq. Miles.
Population.
Prussia and Lauenburg.
Bavaria
159,875
29,628
7,053
5,918
5,776
4,345
3,761
'2,4-21
1,531
1,419
971
799
707
510
461
448
433
1,017
331
327
207
144
151
127
106
5,665
27,278,911
5,254,778
1,971,118
1,570,196
2,972,805
557,877
85-2,894
312,596
311,764
2S6,lS'j
187,607
174,339
86,982
142,123
56,224
89,032
111,353
203,437
75,523
60,191
32,053
45,094 :
338,074
52,158
122,402
1,510,738
4S,622
2,054
Wiirtemberg
Baden
Saxony
Mecklenburg-Schwerin. .
Hesse
Oldenburg
Brunswick
1 Saxe-Weimtir
S;ixp-Meiniiigen
Saxe-Coburg-Gotha
Mecklenburg-Strelitz
Saxe-Altenburg
Waldeck
Reuss (Younger)
Lippe-Detmold
Anhalt- Dessau
Schwarzb.-Rudolstadt. . .
Schwarzburg - Sonders-
hausen
Lippe-Scbaumburg
Reuss (Elder)
Hamburg (free city)
Lubeck
Bremen
Alsace and Lorraine.
Troops in garrisons . .
Sailors
Total
235,301
45,194,172
These states extend over a large area
of Central Europe, between the Baltic Sea
on the north, and Austria and Switzerland
on the south; from the Netherlands and
the North Sea on the west, to Austria and
Russia on the east, embracing nearly a
quarter of a million square miles.
Within this extensive range the people
are nearly throughout German, and, with
some minor modifications, the language,
customs, usages, and manners are the same.
It is in regard to religious and social in-
stitutions that the chief differences are to
be noted.
These different states, while possessing
many characteristics of climate and natu-
ral productions in common, have, at least
so far as the larger of them are concerned,
some features which are peculiar to each.
The German provinces of Austria and
Prussia embrace about three fifths of the
entire extent of German}- ; the remaining
two fifths are included in the above table.
About twenty-six millions of the popula-
tion of the empire are Protestants, and six-
teen millions Roman Catholics ; a little over
two thirds of Prussia belong to the Prot-
estantfaith, while three fourths of the King-
dom of Bavaria are firm adherents of the
548
RIVERS, ETC.
! Papal Church. A little over half a million
inhabitants are Israelites.
The northern portion of Germany, to-
ward the shores of the North Sea and the
Baltic, is a level plain, although the great-
er portion is of mountainous aspect ; the
high grounds lie to the south and south-
west, and the entire country, as shown by
the course of its rivers, slo'pes to the eas't
and north.
The rivers of Germany are some of the
principal in Europe ; the Mine and Danube,
in the south and west of the country, being
two of the greatest importance in the world,
although the latter flows mostly through
Austrian territory. Rising on the eastern
| slopes of the Black Forest, crossing the Ba-
varian plains after passing through a por-
tion of Austria and Hungary, it empties
its waters into the Black Sea. The Rhine,
taking its source from the higher Alps, del
scends with great rapidity through a wine-
growing valley of supreme loveliness into
the flats of Holland, and* discharges its wa-
ters into the North Sea. On its banks are
built the cities of Basle, Mannheim, May-
I ence, Coblentz, Bonn, Cologne, and Dus-
, seldorf. Germany's other principal rivers,
i which flow into the North Sea, are the Elbe,
\ Weser, and Ems. The former, after pass-
: ing through a portion of the Austrian ter-
i ritory, divides the ranges of the Riesen-
Gebirge and Erz-Gebirge, and continues
its course in a northwesterly direction
to its outlet. On its banks are built the
i cities of Hamburg, Magdeburg, and Dres-
I den. The Werra and Fulda, the first draw-
j ing its waters from the Thuringian Forest,
the latter from the Rhon-Gebirge, unite to
| form the Weser, on the banks of which
) are built the cities of Bremen and Minden.
I The Oder flows directly north, the whole
i of its course being through the Prussian
dominions, and discharges its stream in
the North Sea. There are also the rivers
Niemen and Vistula, streams of considera-
ble importance.
The mountains of Germany are numer-
ous, but not of great altitude, averaging
only two thousand feet above the sea lev-
el, although there are some peaks double
that height. Toward the centre are the
Erz - Gebirge and Riesen - Gebirge, on the
borders of Bohemia and Saxony ; the
Schwarz-Wald, or Black Forest,"in the
southwest; the Fitchel-Gebirge and Sttiger
GER IS
Grave par J. Ceisendorfer, 2 r. d<3texier-ef Paris.
Harper's
nA-Books
MINERALS, ETC.
[THE EMPIRE OF GERMANY.]
RAILWAYa
Wold; the Thuringer Wald and Oden-
Wald; the Spessart Rhon-Gebiryf, Vogels-
Gebirge; the Taunus, Elbe-Gebirge, Harz,
and numerous others of lesser importance.
The Harz is the most northerly range in
Germany, being principally located in
Hanover, and particularly rich in lead and
silver mines, which form the chief product
of the Kingdom of Hanover.
The mineral productions of Germany are
exceedingly rich and numerous. The Erz-
Gebirge, on the borders of Saxony and Ba-
varia, produce iron, lead, nickel, zinc, sul-
phur, and arsenic, and other minerals rich
in value and in great abundance. The
Harz mountains produce lead, silver, iron,
copper, zinc, and small quantities of gold.
Nickel is largely produced, and is employed
in the manufacture of German silver, and
as a substitute for bronze in forming casts
of sculpture, being much cheaper and pos-
sessing all the requisite durability ; it is
also susceptible of receiving a fine metallic
surface, closely resembling bronze. Ger-
many exports large quantities of stone,
used especially by lithographers in all
countries ; it is found in Solenhofen, Ba-
varia. Coal is found in large quantities,
the basin of the Sarre a tributary of the
Moselle being exceedingly rich in that
mineral. Precious stones, such as topaz,
amethyst, opal, turquois, agate, jasper,
and rock-crystal, are found in abundance.
The climate of Germany is generally
healthy and temperate ; the southern
states are warm and sheltered, but toward
the Baltic the winters are severe, the weath-
er raw, changeable, and foggy. The soil is
generally productive, especially that bor-
dering on the rivers ; that of the north,
being heavy, is better adapted for corn ; in
the middle districts, between the sandy
plains of the north and the mountains of
the south, the soil is best. In the south,
the soil being light, is more suited to the
growth of the vine, particularly that bor-
dering on the east bank of the Rhine, be-
longing to the states of Baden, Hesse, and
the former state of Nassau, which has a
warmer climate and richer soil than any
other portion of Germany. Here grapes
of the finest quality are grown.
There are extensive forests in all parts
of Germany, which alternate in the north
with marshy and heath-covered districts.
Wild animals are numerous ; among them,
the boar, the wild stag, and fox. The
game birds are the geese, bustards, ducks,
grouse, black-cocks, and woodcocks.
The railways of Germany have been
rapidly increasing during the last twenty
years, and a glance at our new map of
Germany, just engraved (1876), will show
to what an extent they have attained.
There is now 11,000 miles in running order,
having cost four milliard two hundred
millions of marks, which is double the
number in running order at the close of the
French war. In 1870 Prussia possessed a
German mile of railway to every 15, 000 in-
habitants, now (January, 1876) the propor-
tion has risen to one mile (4f- English miles)
to every 10,805. Fifty pounds of baggage
is the weight allowed free ; all over that
must be paid extra. On each article is
pasted a numbered ticket, a corresponding
number is given to the owner, which must
be produced at the end of the journey to
reclaim the baggage. It is well to ask
when the number is being affixed to the
different pieces if it be the same as that
given you, as sometimes in haste the por-
ters paste on the wrong number, when
much annoyance is created, especially if
the destination of both parties be not the
same.
Few Germans ride in first-class car-
riages ; and it is an old saying that only
"princes, Americans, and fools ride first-
class ;" but it is a saying mostly in the
mouths of stingy people. If the American
can afford it, there is no position in which
he can be placed where he will enjoy the
luxury of money more ; if on a long jour-
ney you may have the compartment all
to yourself, instead of being crowded in
with seven others during a warm day or
night, suffocated with pipe-smoke or bad
cigars.
" Hendschell's Eisenbahn Telegraph"
contains the time-tables of all the Ger-
man lines, and is most admirably arranged.
Ladies' cars are attached to all the trains,
and on the principal lines one of " Mann's
elegant boudoir sleeping-cars." Travel-
ers not speaking the German language, and
not traveling with a courier, should by all
means provide themselves with one of
Harper's Phrase - books before leaving
America, otherwise they will find con-
siderable difficulty in getting along, and
must expect occasionally to be the victims
549
MONEY.
[THE EMPIRE OF GERMANY.]
HISTORY.
of cab-drivers, waiters, and commission-
aires, although in nearly all the hotels rec-
ommended in this work they will find
persons speaking the English or French
language.
The German Customs League. Former-
ly every different state in Germany had
its own custom-houses, its own tariff
and revenue laws, which frequently dif-
fered very widely from those of its neigh-
bors. Each petty state endeavored to pro-
cure a revenue for itself, or to advance its
own industry by taxing or prohibiting the
productions of those by which it was sur-
rounded, and customs' officers and lines of
custom-houses were spread over the coun-
try, instead of being reciprocal and depend-
ent. Now, throughout the whole extent
of this immense country, there is nothing
to prevent the freedom of commerce. A
commodity, whether for consumption or
transit, that has once passed the frontier
of the League, may be subsequently con-
veyed without let or hinderance through-
out its whole extent.
Money. Nearly throughout the entire
empire the old coinage of thaler and florin
has disappeared, and the mark and pfennig
are the legal coins of the realm. The dec-
imal system was adopted by law in 1871,
and is applied to weights and measures as
well as to money. Accounts are now kept
in marks, groschens, and pfennigs : 1 mark
=10 groschens = 100 pfennigs. The mark
is nearly equal to our 25-cent piece, or
our English shilling the exchange will
make it cost that and is a handsome coin.
The gold coins are 20 marks = $5, and 10
marks = $2 50. On one side they bear the
imperial eagle, with the words " Deutsches
Reich" (German Empire), the reverse va-
rying according to the state which coins
the piece.
As the old coin, the thaler, has not en-
tirely disappeared, the traveler will re-
member that that coin about equals 75
cents ; its third, 25 cents, or 1 mark ; its
sixth, 12^ cents ; and its 2| groschen pieces
6J cents. By noticing these pieces a few
times their relative value will become ap-
parent.
Length. The metre is the same as the
French, or 39^ 5 6 ff 8 i7 American inches, the
standard of linear measure intended to
be the ten-millionth part of the distance
from the equator to the north pole, as as-
.550
certained by actual measurement of an arc
of the meridian. The centimetre is one-
hundredth part of the metre, and the kilo-
metre equals one thousand metres ; 7000
metres = one German mile, which is about
if- English miles.
In surface measurement the square metre
is the basis, and in capacity the cubic me-
tre. The litre is the unit, and is the
TcfeiT P art of *^ e cubic metre. In weight
the kilogramme is the unit. This equals
one thousand grammes, or about 2.67951
pounds troy, or 2.20485 avoirdupois. It is
by law equal to the weight of a cubic de-
cimetre of distilled water, at the tempera-
ture of maximum density, or 39 Fahr.
Germany with the ancients, Germania ;
in German, "Deutschland." From 1815
until 1866 the denomination Germany re-
ferred more particularly to the parts be-
longing to the German Confederation.
Thus determined, Germany consisted of
35 states of very unequal extent, whose
population amounted to about 44,000,000
inhabitants.
After the treaty of Prague Germany was
divided into two parts :
1st. The Confederation of the North,
composed of 22 states, namely :
The Kingdom of Prussia, whose head is
President of the Confederation.
The Kingdom of Saxony.
The grand-duchies of Saxe- Weimar, of
Mecklenburg-Schwerin, of Mecklenburg-
Strelitz, of Oldenburg, and of Hesse-Darm-
stadt, mostly lying north of the Main.
The duchies of Brunswick, of Saxe-
Meiningen, of Saxe-Altenburg, of Saxe-
Coburg-Gotha, and of Anhalt.
The principalities of Schwarzburg-Rudol-
stadt, of Schwarzburg-Sondershausen, of
Lippe, of Waldeck, of Reuss (elder branch),
of Reuss (younger branch), and of Schaum-
burg-Lippe.
The free towns of Bremen, Lubeck, and
Hamburg.
2d. The kingdoms of Bavaria and Wiir-
temberg.
The grand-duchies of Baden and Hesse-
Darmstadt, mostly lying south of the Main.
The principality of Lichtenstein.
For a long time known under the name
of Germany, this vast country was, after,
the invasion of the barbarians, divided
[THE EMPIRE OF GERMANY.]
HlSTui-.Y.
among numerous independent tribes, up to
the period when Charlemagne subdued
and annexed them to his empire. After
the death of the Conqueror (814), how-
ever, these various elements, compulsive-
ly united, soon tended to separate again :
and the treaty of Verdun, signed (843) by
the sons of Louis le Debonnaire, gave birth
to the kingdom of Germany (which ac-
knowledged for its sovereign Louis, sur-
mmed the Germanic, the third son of
Louis le Debonnaire), as well as to those
of Alemannia and Bavaria, which shortly
after blended with the above mentioned
under the name of Germany.
Definitively separated from France and
Italy after the deposition of Charles le
Gross, 887, Germany was still for some
time governed by Carlovingian princes
Arnold of Carinthia, and Louis IV., sur-
named V Enfant, 887-911.
This family being extinct, the mon-
archy became elective. The crown was
then bestowed on Conrad I., duke of
Franconia. Henri I., 1'Oiseleur, succeeded
him in 919, and was the head of the house
of Saxony, which gave Germany five sov-
ereigns, and nearly restored in the person
of Otho the Great the empire of Charle-
magne, 962-973.
From this reign the imperial crown,
which had alternately devolved on French,
German, and Italian kings, began exclu-
sively to belong to Germany, which then
assumed the title of Holy Roman Empire
of the German Nation. The house of Sax-
ony annexed to the empire Lotharingia,
Bohemia, and Germany.
To the house of Saxony succeeded that
of Franconia, 1024-1125, which added to
the dominions of the empire the kingdom
of Aries, and was noted for its differences
with the Holy See.
The house of Suabia, or Hohenstaufen,
next ascended the throne : two sovereigns
of this house, Conrad III. and Frederick
Barbarossa, brought to its highest degree
the imperial power, 1138-1190 ; but their
successors, attacked both by their vassals
and the popes, and frequently deposed,
sunk into most ignominious helplessness.
Their reigns were disturbed by the inces-
sant strifes of the Gnelfs and Ghibellines.
On the death of Conrad IV. begins a
protracted interregnum, 1254-1273, during
which German}'- fell a prey to anarchy.
HISTORY.
The authority of the imperial crown
was somewhat restored by the valor of Ru-
dolph of Hapsburg, 1273^1291 ; but under
his immediate successors and the princes
of Bavaria and Luxemburg the power of
the great feudatories and the electors of
the empire was seen daily to increase.
Their rights were publicly sanctioned by
the far-famed " Golden Bull," the edict of
Charles IV., 1356.
In 1438 Albert of Hapsburg was elected
emperor, and became the head of the cele-
brated house of Austria. Charles V.,
fourth sovereign of this house, elected 1519,
gloriously revived the power of the em-
perors ; his arms were successful against
Francis I., and he gave for a time the pre-
ponderance to Germany ; but was power-
less against the Reformation.
Ferdinand I., Charles's brother, reigned
wisely ; and after him no important change
took place in Germany until the accession
of Ferdinand II., under whom began the
"Thirty -years War," 1618-1648, which
ended in the Peace of Westphalia, and
whose result was a decrease in the power
of Germany, the supremacy of France, and
confirmation of the Lutheran religion.
The reigns of Leopold I., of Joseph I.,
and of Charles VI. were filled up by pro-
tracted wars against Louis XIV. and Louis
XV.
The demise of Charles VI. was the oc-
casion of the war for the "succession of
Austria," which gave the crown to the
husband of Maria-Theresa, Charles VI.'s
daughter, and thus established on the
throne the House of Lorraine in the per-
son of Francis I.
Finally, in 1806, the German Empire
ceased to exist, in consequence of the ab-
dication of the Emperor Francis II., who
henceforth only reigned over his heredi-
tary states with the title of Emperor of
Austria.
Most of the small states which before
composed the Empire of Germany then
united under the name of " Confederation
of the Rhine " and the protectorate of Na-
poleon. These were :
The kingdoms of Bavaria, Wurtemberg,
Saxony, Westphalia.
The grand-duchies of Frankfort, Ba-
den, Berg and Cleves, Hesse-Darmstadt,
Wurtzburg, Saxe-Weimar.
The duchies of Saxe-Gotha, Saxe-Mein-
551
CONSTITUTION.
[THE EMPIRE OF GERMANY.]
GOVERNMENT.
ingen, Saxe-Hildburghausen, Saxe- Co-
burg - Saalfeld, Mecklenburg - Schwerin,
Mecklenburg-Strelitz.
The principalities of Nassau - U singen,
Nassau -Weilburg, Hohenzollern - Hechin-
gen, Hohenzollern-Sigmaringen, Isenburg-
Birstein, Lichtenstein, La Laj'en, Anhalt-
Bernburg, Anhalt-Kb'then, Anhalt-Dessau,
Lippe-Detmold, Lippe-Schaumburg, Reuss-
Ebersdorf, Reuss-Greitz, Reuss-Lobenstein,
Reuss-Schleitz, Schwarzburg-Rudolstadt,
Schwarzburg - Sondersbausen, Waldeck,
Lubeck,with the Duchy of Holstein-Olden-
burg.
The events of 1815 further modified this
state of things.
To the "Confederation of the Rhine"
was substituted the ' : Confederation Ger-
manique," but on the same plan, the pro-
tectorate of which was again bestowed on
the Emperor of Austria, but without the
title of emperor.
In the years 1848-49 it was attempted to
constitute a Military Germany ; a National
Assembly was called together at Frank-
fort to replace the Diet of former times ;
the old order of things was restored in
1850; but Prussia, victorious at Sadowa
(July 3, 1866), constituted Germany as it at
present is, Austria being excluded from it.
The Constitution of the Empire. The Em-
pire of Germany had been under the Car-
lovingians an hereditary monarch}'. When,
after them, the sovereignty became elect-
ive, the election at first devolved upon
the universality of the six nations forming
the Germanic body (Franks, Suabians, Ba-
varians, Saxons, Lotharingians, Prisons).
It became at a later period the exclusive
privilege of princes or great feudatories
(1156); it then concentrated, first from
mere custom, but afterwards by virtue of
the " Golden Bull," into the hands of seven
electors. The pope used originally to
anoint and crown the emperor; but Louis
the Bavarian declared, in 1338, that this
ceremony was superfluous, and that the
emperor, elected by a majority, was legit-
imate emperor by virtue of this election.
The emperors, in order to secure the
hereditament of the crown in their houses,
had their successors crowned in their own
lifetime ; the heir apparent assuming the
title of King of the Romans. The first King
of the Romans was Henri, the son of the
Emperor Frederick II., 1228.
552
The coronation of the emperors general-
ly took place at Frankfort-on-the-Main,
when the elected emperor signed a ca-
pitulation determining and limiting his
rights. He was bound to convoke the
States-General, or the Diet, not only for
the making of laws, but likewise for the
dispatch of the affairs of the empire in
general; viz., dec-hiring war or negotiat-
ing peace ; sending or receiving ambassa-
dors ; he even required the consent of the
Diet in matters of collation of benefices or
important fiefs, and especially for the rais-
ing of taxes.
The composition of the states was as
follows :
1st. Ecclesiastical members viz., the
ecclesiastical princes, electors ; the arch-
bishops and bishops, the priors, the abbots,
the Grand -master of the Teutonic Order
and that of the Order of St. John.
2d. Secular members viz., the secular
princes, electors ; the dukes, the princes,
the landgraves, margraves, burgraves, the
counts, and finally the imperial towns.
Business was transacted in three col-
leges : 1st, The college of the princes, elect-
ors ; 2d, that of the princes ; 3d, that of
the imperial towns. Each college deliber-
ated separately, and the unanimity of their
votes was requisite to impart legal force to
their decisions, which received then the de-
nomination of Recess of the Empire.
The establishment of the Confederation
of the Rhine, while bringing the old em-
pire to an end, destroyed at the same time
its constitution. Each of the principalities
of which it was composed became wholly
independent as to its interior government ;
and the unity of Germany was henceforth
confined to the relations of the country
with foreign powers.
The Confederation Germanique was es-
tablished on the same principle (1815).
The functions of the Diet were restricted
to three principal points : 1st, The uphold-
ing of the Federal States' independence or
exterior security ; 2d, the preservation of
peace among the Federal States, or interior
security ; 3d, intervention for the restoring
of peace and quiet among the Federal States.
Affairs were transacted in a Diet sitting
at Frankfort. The powers there represent-
ed were granted a number of votes in keep-
ing with their respective importance. The
now organization does not interfere with
SOVEREIGNS.
[THE EMPIRE OF GERMANY.]
SOVEREIGN^
the autonomy of the southern states, and
forms a Confederation of the North, includ-
ing three powers : the Presidency, which
belongs to Prussia ; the Federal Council,
composed of the representatives of the mem-
bers of the Confederation (43 votes) ; and
the Reichstag, or Parliament, whose mem-
bers are returned by means of universal
and direct elections.
SOVEREIGNS OF GERMANY.
CAKLOVINGIAN8. A.D.
Charlemagne, emperor 800-814
Louis le Uiibonnaire, emperor 814-840
Lothair I., associated with the em-
pire 817 ; emperor 840-855
Louis II., king of Germany, 843;
emperor 855-876
Charles the Bald, emperor S76-87T
Carlomau, king of Bavaria 876-880
Louis III., the Saxon, king of Ger-
many 876-881
Charles le Grots king of Alemanniu,
or Germany, 876; emperor and
king of Germany 8S1-8S7
Arnold (a natural son of Carloman),
king of Germany, 8S7 ; emperor. 890-899
Louis IV., 1'Eufaut, king of Ger-
many 899-911
IIOUSE OF FUANCONIA.
Conrad I., of Franconia, king 912-918
HOUSE OF SAXONY.
Henri I. , 1'Oiseleur, king. 919-936
Otho I., the Great, king, 936 ; em-
peror 962-973
Otho II., king, 962 ; emperor. 973-983
Otho III., king, 983; emperor 996-1002
Henri II., le Saint, emperor 1002-1024
HOUSE OF VBANCONIA.
Conrad II., le Salique, emperor. . .1024-1039
Henri III., emperor 1039-1056
Henri IV., emperor 1056-1106
Rudolph of Rheinfelden, anti-em-
peror 1077-10SO
Hermann of Luxemburg, anti-em-
peror 1081-lOa?
Conrad, king of Germany 1087-1099
Henri V., king of Germany, 1099 ;
emperor 1106-1125
HOUSE OF BAXONY.
Lothair II., of Supplingburg, king,
1125; emperor 1133-1137
HOUSE OF SUABIA, OB HOHENSTAUFEN.
Conrad III., emperor 1138-1152
Frederick I., Barbarossa, emper-
or 1152-1190
Henri VI., emperor 1190-1 197
Phillip, emperor 1198-1208
Otho IV., of Brunswick, anti-em-
peror, 1198-1203; emperor 1208-1218
Frederick II., emperor. 1218-1250
Henri/, the Jtaspon, of Thurinyia,
emperor 1246
Conrad IV. , emperor 1250-1254
GBEAT INTERREGNUM.
William of Holland 1247-1256
liicliard of Cormcall 1257-1272
A Ifonso of Castile 1257-1273
HOUSE OF UAPSIiUBG, OB AUSTRIA.
Rudolph I., emperor 1273-1291
Adolph of Nassau, emperor 1292-1298
Albert I., of Austria, emperor 1298-1308
HOUSE OF LUXEMBUBG AND UAVABIA.
Henri VII., of Luxemburg, em-
peror 1308-1313
Louis V., of Bavaria, emperor. . . .1314-1347
Frederick III., le Bel, anti-emper-
or 1314-1330
Charles IV., of Luxemburg, em-
peror 1347-1378
Wenceslas of Luxemburg, emperor. 1378-1400
Robert of Bavaria, emperor 1400-1410
Josee, of Moravia, emperor 1410-1411
Sigismund of Luxemburg, emper-
or. 1411-1437
HOUSE OF AUSTBIA.
Albert II., emperor 1438-1439
Frederick III., emperor, 1440-1493
Maximilian I., emperor. 1493-1519
Charles V., emperor 1519-1556
Ferdinand I., emperor 1556-1564
Maximilian II., emperor 1564-1576
Rudolph II., emperor. 1576-1612
Matliias, emperor. 1612-1619
Ferdinand II., emperor 1619-1637
Ferdinand III., emperor 1637-1657
Leopold I., emperor 1658-1706
Joseph I. , emperor 1705-1711
Charles VI., emperor 1711-1740
HOUSE OF BAVARIA.
Charles VII. (after an interreg-)
num), emperor 1742-1745
HOUSE OF AU8TBIA-1.OBBAINE.
Francis I., husband to Maria-The-
resa, emperor 17-45-1765
Joseph II., emperor. 1765-1790
Leopold II., emperor 1790-1792
Francis II., emperor 1792-1806
The Kingdom of Prussia, the king of
which has just been intrusted with the im-
perial crown, was previous to 1866 one of
the principal states of Europe, and was
formed of two distinct parts, separated one
from the other by foreign countries (Han-
over, the higher Hesse, Nassau, etc.) : the
one, Prussia proper, eastward; the other,
smaller, which was called Rhenish Prussia,
not taking into account a part of the King-
dom of Wurtemberg, the Principality of
Hohenzollern, ceded to the King of Prussia
in 1840. Since 1866 Prussia forms (if we
except a few states inclosed by it, which
are as well as herself included in the Con-
federation of the North : the Duchy of
Brunswick, that of Oldenburg, etc.) a com-
653
PROVINCES.
[THE EMPIRE OF GERMANY.]
HISTORY.
pact state, whose boundaries are : on the
north the German Ocean, Denmark, the
Grand-Duchy of Mecklenburg, the Baltic
Sea ; on the east Russia and Poland ; on
the south the Empire of Austria, the King-
dom and duchies of Saxony, the Kingdom
of Wiirtemberg, the grand-duchies of Ba-
den and Hesse ; on the west France and
Holland. Her present population is about
24,000,000 inhabitants, of which more than
13,000,000 are Protestants.
The Prussian states consist of ten ex-
tensive provinces, subdivided into govern-
orships and regencies, the governmental
districts of Eesse-Cassel and Wiesbaden,
and the Principality of Hohenzollern.
The governorships all go by the names
of their chief towns. The capital is Berlin.
PBOVINCES. GOVERNORSHIPS.
x itz, Aix-la-Chapelle.
(Hanover, Hildesheim, Lu-
. < neburg, Stade, Oanabruck,
( Auvich.
Brandenburg.. ..
Pomerania ....... Stettin, Stralsund, Kii.-lin.
Silesia ........... Breslau, Liegnitz, Oppelu.
Posnania ........ Posen, Bromberg.
Prussia nroner i Konigaberg, Gumbinnen,
a proper. . . j Da ntzic, Mariemverder.
(Magdeburg, Mereeburg, Er-
8axon y .......... \ flirt.
Westphalia ...... {*?*' MindeD ' A a '
Rhenish Province. | Cologne, Dusseldorf, Cob-
Hanover,
Sleswig-Holstein.. Kiel, Sleawig.
Governmental districts of Cassel and Wiesba-
den ; Principality of Hohenzollern.
To Prussia belong very remote and di-
verse countries. In Silesia, in Saxony,
and toward the Rhine are numerous mount-
ains (the Sudete, Carpathes, Harz, Thur-
inger Wald, Teutoburger Wald, etc.) ; the
other parts offer an immense extent of
plains. The sea washes about 400 miles
of Prussian coast.
Numerous railroads, most of which
centre in Berlin, facilitate communica-
tion. The principal rivers that water
this kingdom are the Rhine, the Weser, the
Elbe, the Oder, and the Vistula. There
are, and more particularly in the eastern
parts, many lakes and ponds, and two vast
lagoons, respectively called Kurische Haff
and Preussische Haff. Various canals serve
to connect the rivers Elbe, Oder, and Vis-
tula. The climate, varying according to
latitude, is very cold and damp in the north-
ern parts. Silesia and the provinces west
554
of the Weser are very fruitful, but the soil
of Brandenburg is extremely poor. About
twelve million acres are covered with for-
ests.
The principal productions are : grains,
vegetables, flax, hemp, saffron, tobacco,
hops ; on the banks of the Rhine, wine,
honey, silk, iron, copper, pewter, lead,
alum, saltpetre, lime, alabaster, kaolin,
jasper, onyx, and other precious stones.
On the coasts of the Baltic, yellow amber.
Mineral waters at Aix-la-Chapelle, Warm-
brunn, Hirschberg, etc. Active industry
in cloth, linen, silk, saddlery, coach-making,
hats, paper, carpets, clock and watch mak-
ing, brewing, tanning, Prussian blue, iron-
melting.
Trade, rather flourishing, particularly
west of the Weser, is greatly facilitated
by the association of customs, known by
the name of Zollverein, and which ex-
tends almost over the whole of Germany.
The government is monarchical and rep-
resentative. The reigning house is the
younger branch of the Hohenzollern.
Liberty of conscience is unlimited. Al-
though a large majority of the population
are Lutherans, the Catholics have two
archbishops (Gnesen, Cologne), and eight
bishops (Breslau, Culm, Ermeland, Mttn-
ster, Paderborn, Treves, Hildesheim, and
Osnabruck).
Public instruction is very forward : there
are six universities, viz., Berlin, Konigs-
berg, Halle, Breslau, Greifswalde, and
Bonn.
The army is very strong ; composed of
both regular troops and a national militia
called Landwehr: it amounts to more than
600,000 men.
The Prussian monarchy, which belonged
to the Germanic Confederation with Posen
and Prussia proper (admitted into it in
1848), belongs nowadays integrally to the
Confederation of the North, and is intrust-
ed with the presidence of it, and the com-
mand of the armies of the Confederation.
Out of the 43 votes of the Federal Council
she is entitled to 17, and her preponderance
secures for her almost all the rest.
IIISTOKY OF PRUSSIA.
The Prussian monarchy consisting of
various parts but very recently united,
this account will principally refer to the
successive accruments which have formed
HISTORY.
[THE EMPIRE OF GERMANY.]
IIlSTOBT.
this power, and be confined to the recalling
of the chief events of the Prussian states
since the loth century, when their reunion
began to take place.
1st. A Count of Hohenzollern, Conrad
Stein, of the house of Brandenburg, came,
as early as 1164, into possession of the
Burgraviate of Nuremberg, which unin-
terruptedly belonged to this house up to
the year 1801.
2(1. From 1248 to 1331 his successors
became possessed among other places of
Anspach, Culmbach, and Bayreuth ; in
fact, the whole of Franconia, or nearly so,
belonged toward that time to the above-
mentioned house ; but these possessions
were, at the beginning of the loth century,
divided between the two sons of Frederick
V. of Hohenzollern (John III., the elder,
and Frederick).
3d. In 1415 the Margraviatc of Branden-
burg, which had successively belonged to the
Ascaniaii house, and to that of Bavaria and
Luxemburg, was bought, with the title of
Elector which was inherent in it, by Fred-
erick VI. of Hohenzollern, who assumed
the title of Frederick of Brandenburg.
Frederick II., surnamed Iron-Tooth, soon
added to it the New Mark (1445). These
possessions, which had been divided on the
death of Frederick I. (1440), were again
united by Albert, the Achilles (1471), on
the demise of Frederick II.
4th. By the Treaty of Xanten (1614),
and that'of Dusseldorf (1624), John Sigis-
mund annexed to his states the half of the
Juliers' succession (i. e., Cleves, the Mark,
and Ravensberg).
5th. In 1618 the same John Sigismund
annexed to his states the Duchy of Prus-
sia, or Ducal Prussia, as son-in-law to the
last duke, Albert II., who was himself a
Hohenzollern, but of the Anspach and
Bayreuth line. This same Ducal Prussia,
which was at the time of the annexation
a Polish fief, became altogether a sovereign
state by the Act of Labian in 1656, and by
the Treaty of Wehlan in 1657.
6th. In 1648, by the Treaty of West-
phalia, Frederick William, called the Great
Elector, acquired Eastern Pomerania, the
secularised archbishoprics and bishoprics
of Magdeburg, Halberstadt, Minden, and
Caiuin, and the County of Hohenstein.
7th. After the institution as king of
Frederick, under the name of Frederick I.
(1701), the following states were annexed:
Mors, 1702 ; Tecklenbourg, Vallengin, and
Neuchatel, 1707 ; part of the Guelders
(Peace of Utrecht, 1713), Wollin, Usedom,
Stettin, and half Upper Pomerania (Peace
of Stockholm, 1720).
8th. Frederick II. conquered from Aus-
tria nearly the whole of Silesia, the pos-
session of which was confirmed to him by
the Peace of Aix-la-Chapelle, 1748, and
that of Hubertsburg, 1763. He had, more-
over (1743) inherited Eastern Frisia.
9th. The same Frederick obtained for
bis share in the first dismemberment of
Poland (1772-73) Polish Prussia, except
Dantzic and Thorn ; to which Frederick
William II. added, 1793, these two towns
and the whole of Great Poland, under the
name of Eastern Prussia ; and in 1795 Bialy-
stok, Plock, etc., under that of New East-
ern Prussia. This Prince had besides ob-
tained (1791) the cession of the Anspach
and Bayreuth margraviates.
10th. After losing, during the wars of the
French Revolution, her possessions west of
the Rhine, Prussia had received advanta-
geous compensations in the east in Sax-
ony and Westphalia, added to which Han-
over had been ceded to her by Napoleon
in 1806 ; but war having broken out a few
years after, her forces had been driven out
of Hanover; and the Treaty of Tilsit, 1807,
took from her all her possessions in West-
phalia and F.ranconia, as well as Great Po-
land, which became the Grand-Duchy of
Warsaw. Driven back to the Oder, she
was on the brink of complete annihilation,
when Napoleon's downfall suddenly saved
her. She recovered in 1814 and 1815 about
one-fourth part of Great Poland, and all her
other possessions (except Anspach and Bay-
reuth) ; she obtained besides Swedish Pom-
erania, nearly half the Kingdom of Sax-
ony, and both east and west of the Rhine
numerous territories which formed Rhenish
Prussia, otherwise the great duchy of Low-
er Rhine.
llth. Finally, in 1849, the sovereign prin-
ces of Hohenzollern-Hechingen andHohen-
zollern-Sigmaringen ceded their principal-
ities to Frederick William IV. for an an-
nuity, not giving up, however, their rights
to the succession to the throne of Prussia.
The capital events in the history of
Prussia since the acquisition of Branden-
burg by the houso of Hohenzollern (1415)
555
HISTORY.
[THE EMPIRE OF GERMANY.]
HlSTORT.
are : the important part played by the
Electors Frederick II. and Albert the
Achilles, during the Hussite wars in af-
fording help to the Emperor Frederick
III. (1440-1486); the introduction of Lu-
theranism into Brandenburg and Prussia
(1521 and subsequent years) ; the secular-
ization of Eastern Prussia, 1525, under Al-
bert of Brandenburg, Grand-master of the
Teutonic Order; the influence gained, as
early as 1577, by the Electors of Branden-
burg over Prussia, of which they ultimate-
ly became masters (1618) ; the glorious and
useful reign of the Great Elector Frederick
William, who was the real founder of the
Kingdom of Prussia, and materially in-
creased the population of his states by
opening them to the French refugees after
the revocation of the Edict of Nantes ; the
transformation of the Duchy into the King-
dom of Prussia under Frederick I. (1701),
and the participation of this prince in the
great war in the North (1701 and subsequent-
ly) a war which by the Peace of Stock-
holm still added to his dominions; the reign
of Frederick II. the Great, who, casting in
the shade all his predecessors, was for for-
ty years the most influential prince in Eu-
rope, added to his states Silesia and West-
ern Prussia, withstood almost single-handed
a most fearful coalition (the Seven-years'
War, 1756-63), prevented Austria from
seizing on Bavaria (1777), and made Prus-
sia balance the power of Austria ; the part
which his two successors took in the Eu-
ropean struggle against France ; the over-
running of Champagne by the Prussians
(1792) ; the Peace of Basle (1795) ; the
campaigns of 1806 and 1807, signalized by
the defeat of Jena, the occupation of Ber-
lin, and the loss of one half of the Prussian
states, and brought to a close (1807) by the
Peace of Tilsit ; the coalition of Prussia and
Russia after the Moscow disaster (1812) ; the
entering of the Prussians into France after
the battle of Leipsic, and their reintegra-
tion with important additions into the prov-
inces of which the}' had been deprived ;
Frederick William III. ; provincial assem-
blies, having consultative power (1820).
In 1847 Frederick William IV. granted
the united Diet, where the members of the
provincial assemblies were called together.
Consequent upon the revolution which
had broken out in Fraiice (1848), a new
constitution was sworn by the king (Feb-
556
ruary 6th, 1850) : it instituted two assem-
blies that of the Lords, and that of the
Deputies, the voting of taxes and laws by
these two Houses, and the responsibility of
ministers. His successor, William -Louis
(1861), had at first again to contend about
the constitution ; but, seconded by an able
minister, M. de Bismarck, he caused his
people's ideas to enter a different channel.
Thanks to easy successes gained over
Denmark (1864), and a war no less for-
tunate than venturous against Austria,
who was vanquished at Sadowa (July 3d,
1866), William-Louis annexed to his king-
dom Holstein, Sleswig, Lauenburg, Han-
over, both Electoral and Higher Hesse,
Nassau, Homburg, and Frankfort, and ex-
cluded Austria from Germany, which he
organized anew, arrogating to himself the
Presidency of the Confederation of the
North.
The following is the series of the sov-
ereigns of Prussia since the annexation
of Brandenburg :
1. MARGRAVES, ELECTORS OF BRANDENBURG.
Frederick 1 1415
Frederick II., Iron-tooth 1440
Albert, the Achilles 14T1
John, the Cicero I486
Joachim I., the Nestor 1499
Joachim II., the Hector 1534
John George 15T1
Joachim Frederick 1598
John Sigismund 1008
George William 1619
Frederick William, Great Elector 1640
Frederick III 16S8
2. KINGS OP PRUSSIA.
Frederick I. (?ame as Frederick III.). . 1701
Frederick William L 1713
Frederick II., the Great 1T40
Frederick William II 1786
Frederick William III 1797
Frederick William IV 1S40
Frederick, William the First, Louis, Em-
peror of German}', King of Prussia, etc.,
born March 22, 1797, son of King Frederick
William III. and of Queen Louisa Augusta
Wilhelmina Amelia, daughter to Charlet
Louis Frederick, Grand-Duke of Mecklen-
burg - Strelitz ; regent, October 9, 1858 ;
succeeded his brother, King Frederick Will-
iam IV. ; crowned October 18, 1861. Em-
peror of Germany, January 18, 1871 ; mar-
ried, June 11, 1829, to Maria Louisa Augusta
Catherine, Empress of Germany, Queen of
Prussia, born September 30, 1811, daughter
to the late Charles Frederick, Grand-Duko
HISTORY.
[THE EMPIRE OF GERMANY.]
ROUTE&
of Saxe- Weimar, Colonel of the Fourth
Regiment of Grenadiers of the Guard No.
4, " Queen."
Children: I.Frederick William Nicolas
Charles, Prince Imperial of the German Em-
pire ; Crown-Prince of Prussia, born Octo-
ber 18, 1831 ; General Field-Marshal ; In-
spector-general of the Fourth Inspection of
the Army of the German Empire ; Russian
General Field-Marshal ; President of the
Commission for the Defense of the Coun-
try ; Colonel of the First Regiment of East-
ern Prussia's Grenadiers No. 1, " Crown-
Prince ;" and of the Fifth Regiment of the
Westphalian Infantry No. 53 ; and of the
Second Regiment of the Silesian Dragoons
No. 8 ; attached to the First Regiment of
the Foot-Guard, and the Second Regiment
of the Silesian Grenadiers No. 11 ; Lieuten-
ant-Colonel of the First Regiment of the
Landwchr Guard ; Governor of Poinera-
nia ; Colonel of the Russian Husssrs No.
11, " Isum;" Owner of the Regiment of
Austrian Infantry No. 20, and of the Regi-
ment of Bavarian Lancers No. 1 ; married
in London, January 25, 1858, to
Victoria Adelaide Maria Louisa, Princess
Imperial of the German Empire ; Princess
Royal of Prussia ; Princess Royal of Great
Britain and Ireland, Duchess of Saxony,
born November 21, 1840; Second Chief of
the Second Regiment of Hussars (of the
Guard) No. 2.
Children: 1. Prince Frederick William
Victor Albert, born in Berlin, January 27,
1859; Sub -Lieutenant in the First Regi-
ment of the Foot-Guard ; attached to the
first battalion (Berlin) of the Second Land-
ivi'hr Regiment of the Guard, and attached
to the First Regiment of the Pomeranian
Grenadiers No. 2, "King Frederick Will-
iam IV.;" Russian Sub-Lieutenant; at-
tached to the Regiment of Grenadiers of
the Guard, "King Frederick William
III."
2. Princess Victoria Elizabeth Augusta
Charlotte, born at Potsdam, July 24, 1860.
3. Prince Albert William Henry, born at
Potsdam, August 14, 1862; Lieutenant in
the First Regiment of the Foot - Guard ;
Lieutenant in the Navy ; attached to the
Landwehr Foot-Guard, and to the Russian
Hussar Regiment No. 11, " Isum."
4. Princess Frederica Amelia Wilhelmi-
n;i Victoria, born at Potsdam, April 12,
1866.
5. Prince Joachim Frederick Ernest Wal-
demar, born in Berlin, February 10, 1868.
6. Princess Sophia Dorothea Ulrica Alice,
born at Potsdam, June 14, 1870.
7. Princess Margaret Beatrice Feodora,
born at Potsdam, April 22, 1872.
2d. Princess Louisa Maria Elizabeth,
born December 3, 1838 ; married Septem-
ber 28, 1856, to the reigning Grand-Duke
of Baden, Frederick William Louis of Ba-
den.
The Emperor has a brother, Prince Fred-
erick Charles Alexander, born June 29,
1801 ; married May 26, 1827, to
Princess Mary Louisa Alexandrina, born
February 3, 1808, daughter of the late
Charles Frederick, Grand-Duke of Saxe-
Weimar.
Their eldest son is Prince Frederick
Charles Nicolas, cousin to the Crown-Prince,
born March 20, 1828 ; generally called the
" Red Prince," and noted in the late war.
ROUTES.
Berlin, page 561.
ROUTE 145 (see page 576). Berlin to
Paris, via Stendal, Hanover, Minden. Diis-
seldorf, Cologne, and Aix-la-Chapelle.
ROUTE 146 (see page 587). Berlin to Co-
logne, via Magde'mrg. Elherfeld, and Deutz.
ROUTE 147 (see page 595). Berlin to
Hamburg and Sfestrig, via Wittenborge,
Hagenow, and Buchen.
ROUTE 148 (see page 599). Hamburg to
Strakund, via Lubeck and Rostock.
ROUTE 150 (see page 601). Berlin to
Bremen, via Stendal and Ulzen.
ROUTE 151 (see page 603). Berlin to
Dantzic, via Stettin.
ROUTE 152 (see page 605). Stettin to
fitrahund, via Pasewalk (Baths of Putbus).
ROUTE 153 (see page 606). Berlin to
Dntt-.ic, via Ciistrin, Schiifidcmuhl, and
Konitz, or via Bromberg (from Dirschau
to Konigsberg).
657
ROUTES.
[THE EMPIRE OF GERMANY.]
ROUTES.
ROUTE 154 (see page 608). Berlin to
Tilsit, via Frankfort-on-tbe-Oder, Posen,
Thorn, and Insterberg.
ROUTE 155 (see page 609). Stettin to
Breslau, via Posen.
ROUTE 156 (see page 610). Breslau to
Cracow, via Oppeln and Cosel.
ROUTE 157 (see page 612). Cracow to
Warsaw.
ROUTE 158 (see page 614). Cracow to
Vienna, via Oderberg, Prerau, Bisenz, and
Lundenberg.
ROUTE 159 (see page 614). Dusseldorfto
Bremen, via Miinster and Osnabriick (rail-
way in progress between Osnabriick and
Bremen), Miinster to Emden.
ROUTE 160 (see page 615). Berlin to
Leipzig, via Wittenberg.
ROUTE 161 (see page 617). Berlin to
Diisseldorf, via Halle, Eisleben, Nordhau-
sen, Cassel, and Elberfeld.
ROUTE 162 (see page 619). Dresden to
Frankfort-on-the-Main, via Leipzig, Wei-
mar, Erfurt, Gotha, Eisenach, Fulda, and
Friedberg.
ROUTE 163 (see page 625). Frankfort
to Cassel, via Friedberg and Giessen.
ROUTE 164 (see page 629). Berlin to
Breslau,via Frankfort-on-the-Oder, Guben,
Sagan, and Glogau.
ROUTE 165 (see page 629). Leipzig to
.Munich, via Eger (Junction lor Fnmzens-
i>ad and Carlsbad, and for Marienbad and
Vienna), and Regensburg.
ROUTE 166 (see page 632). Berlin to
Dresden.
ROUTE 167 (see page 639). Dresden to
Carlsbad, via Bodenbach.
ROUTE 168 (see page 640). Hanover to
Hamburg, via Celle, Uelzen, and Lune-
burg.
558
ROUTE 169 (see page 641). Frankfort
to Berlin, via Wiirzburg, Bamberg, Neuen-
markt, Hof, and Leipzig.
ROUTE 170 (see page 643). Frankfort
to Prague, via Wiirzburg, Nuremberg,
Schwarzenfeld, Pilsen, and Prague.
ROUTE 171 (see page 646). Dresden to
Schwarzenburff,viaFieibeTg, Chemnitz, and
Zwickau.
ROUTE 172 (see page 647). Berlin to
Gdrlitz, via Cottbus.
Munich, description, page 649.
ROUTE 173 (see page 663). Munich to
Paris, via Augsburg, Ulm, Stuttgart, and
Strasburg.
ROUTE 174 (see page 666). Munich to
Frankfort, via Gunzenhausen, Anspach,
and Wiirzburg.
ROUTE 175 (see page 667). Lindau to
Augsburg and Wiirzburg.
ROUTE 176 (see page 668). Munich to
Lindau (the most direct route to Switzer-
land).
ROUTE 177 (see page 668). Ulm to
Friedrichshafen, on Lake Constance.
ROUTE 178 (see page 669). Ulm to
Xchiiffhausen, via Immendingen.
ROUTE 179 (see page 669). Siultgart to
Schajfhausen, via Tubingen and Immendin-
gen.
ROUTE 180 (see page 670). Stuttgart to
Heidelberg, via Heilbronn.
ROUTE 181 (see page 670). Strasburg to
Basle and Constance, via Freiburg.
ROUTE 182 (see page 674). Strasburg to
Cologne, via Saarbruck,Treves, Hillesheim,
and Diiren.
A. Saarbruck to Mainz, via Spires and
Worms.
B. Saarbruck to Mainz, via Ludwigsha-
fen.
ROUTES.
ROUTE 183 (see page G7ty.Strai,bury to
Basle, via Colmar and Miiulhausen.
ROUTE 184 (see page 080). The tour of
the Rhinr from Cologne /o Strasburg, via
Bonn, CobUntz (excursion up the Moselle to
Treves), Bingen (excursion to Saarbruck
r/'i KIT iixii :ich), Mayence, Wiesbaden (ex-
cursion to Ems riu Schwalbach and Nas-
sau), Frankfort, Darmstadt, Mannheim,
Heidd'uerg, Cai'hruhe, and Baden-Baden.
ATSTRIAN ROUTES.
ROUTE 185 (see page 719). Vienna to
Dresden, ri i Bodenbach, Prague, Pardu-
bitz, and Brlinn.
ROUTE 186 (see page 724). Vienna to
/'f'tijite, Dresden, Berlin, and Hamburg, via
Zni'un and Lissa, by Northern of Austria
Railway (sleepiny-car route). [Excursion
to the Riesengebirge.~\
ROUTE 187 (see page 725). Vienna tc Eger
and Carlsbad, vin Egensburg and Budweis.
ROUTE 188 (see page 725). Vienna to
Prague, via Tabor.
ROUTE 189 (sec page 72G). Vimna to
Munich, ritt Linz, Wels, Attnang (junction
for Gmunden,Ebensee,andIschl), Salzburg,
and Ri)senheim (hence to Innsbruck ami
arross the Brenner Pass to Verona), or from
Vienna to Munich (mail route) ria Linz,
Neumarkt. and Semp.-u-h. (At Nounuirkt
a road to the right leads to Frankfort, tli
Katisbon and Nuremberg.)
ROUTE 190 (see page 730). Vienna to
Venice (direct route) and Trieste, via Briick,
Gratz, Laibach, and Adelsberg. (At Bruck
junction carriages are changed, travelers
to Venice direct continue, while those to
Trieste turn to the left.)
ROUTE 191 (see page 732). Villach to
Brirtn, by the Pusterthal and Villach to
Bruck.
ROUTE 192 (see page 733). Gratz to
Linz, riti Bruck. Steyer, and Enns.
ROUTE 193 (see page 733). Trieste to
Venice, ria Tdine and Treviso (rail), and
by steamer direct.
ROUTE 194 (see page 734). Vienna to
VOL. II. B
[THE EMPIRE OF GERMANY.]
ROUTES.
Constantinople, via Presburg, Pesth, and
Varna (Danube steamers to Rustchuk, rail
to Varna, and steamer to Constantino-
ple).
ROUTE 195 (see page 739). Pesth to
Pragerhof, via Boglar and the Plattensee.
ROUTE 196 (see page 739). Vienna to
Fiume, via Steinamanger, Agram, and
Karlstadt (Agram to Steinbruck).
ROUTE 197 (see page 739). Vienna to
Pesth, via Bruck, Raab, and Stuhlweissen-
burg.
ROUTE 198 (see page 740). Pesth to
Gratz, via Stuhlweissenburg, Kormond,
Steinamauger, and Felbach (railway lin-
ished).
ROUTE 199 (see pages 751, 757). Italy,
description.
ITALY ROUTES.
ROUTE 200 (see page 770). Venice to
Milan, via Padua, Lake Garda, Verona,
Brescia, and Bergamo.
ROUTE 201 (see page 787). Verona to
Innsbruck, via Trent, Botzen, and the Bren-
ner Pass.
ROUTE 202 (see page 787). Milan to
Coma and Lake Como.
ROUTE 203 (see page 790). Como to
Lake Maggiore, via Lake Lugano, and re-
turn to Milan by Novara.
ROUTE 204 (see page 791). Milan to
Turin, via Novara.
ROUTE 205 (see page 796). Turin to
Aosta, via Ivrea.
ROUTE 206 (see page 797). Turin to
Nice., via Cuneo and the Col di Tendo.
559
ROUTES.
[THE EMPIRE OF GERMANY.]
ROUTES.
ROUTE 207 (see page 797). Aronu to
Genoa, via Alessandria.
ROUTE 208 (see page 803). Milan to
Genoa, via Pavia.
ROUTE 209 (see page 804). Brescia to
Pavia, via Cremona.
ROUTE 210 (see page 805). Brest-iu to
Tirana and the Baths of Boruiio, by the
Bonnio Pass to Bregenz (see Route 55,
Switzerland, vol. iii.), Lago d'Iseo.
ROUTE 211 (see page 805). Verona to
Modena, via Mantua.
ROUTE 212 (see page 807). Padua to
Bologna, via Ferrara.
ROUTE 213 (see page
Nice, via the Riviera.
-Genoa to
ROUTE 214 (see page 808). Genoa to
Florence, via Spezia and Pisa.
ROUTE 215 (see page 812). Milan to
Florence, via Piacenza, Parma, Modena,
Bologna, and Pistoia.
ROUTE 216 (see page 819). Milan to
Brindisi, via Bologna, Ravenna, Rimini,
Ancona, and Foggia. Turin to Brindisi,
and Genoa to Brindisi.
ROUTE 217 (see page 825). Pisa to Flor-
ence, via the Baths of Lucca and Pistoia.
ROUTE 218 (see page 838). (Florence
and its environs), Florence to Rome (the
most direct line), via Arezzo, Perugia,
Foligna, Spello, and Terni.
ROUTE 219 (see page 842). Florence to
Rome, via Empoli, Pisa, Leghorn, Cecina,
Follonica, Grosseto, and Civita Vecchia.
ROUTE 220 (see page 843). Florence to
Rome, via Empoli, Siena, and Orvieto.
ROUTE 221 (see page 845). Fano to
Perugia, via Fossombrone, Urbino, and
Gubbio.
Rome and its Environs. Rome (excur-
sions in vicinitv of), page 846.
560 *
ROUTE 222 (see page 871). Rome to
Naples (railway), via Albano, Villetii,
Frosinone, Ceprano, Caserta, and Cancello.
ROUTE 223 (see page 872). Rome to Na-
pUs,via the Pontinc Marshes and Terracina.
ROUTE 224 (see page 873). Naples to
Fogyia, via Benevento.
Naples and its excursions, page 875.
ROUTE 225 (see page 874). Ancona to
Naples, via Pescara, Sulmona, and Iscr-
ROUTE 226 (see page 891). Naples to
Regrjio, via Salerno, Eboli, Cassano, Co-
senza, Catanzaro, and Monteleone.
ROUTE 227 (see page 893). Naples to
Taranto, via Potenza and Matera. (Kail-
way in progress from Eboli to Taranto.)
ROUTE 228 (see page 894). Taranto to
Reggio by the eastern coast. (Railway
finished the greater part of the distance.)
ROUTE 229 (see page 894). Naples to
the ruins of P cesium.
Sici'y. History, etc., page 895.
Naples to Palermo. Palermo and excur-
sions, page 895.
ROUTE 230 (see page 899). Palermo to
Girgenti.
ROUTE 231 (see page 900). Palermo to
Trapani, Marsala, and Castelvetrano.
ROUTE 232 (see page 900). Girgenti to
Syracuse, via Licata, Terranova, Modica,
and Palazzolo.
Palermo to Missina by steamer, page
902.
ROUTE 233 (see page 902). Palermo to '
Messina, via Termini, Patti, and Milazzo.
ROUTE 234 (see page 904). Messina to
Syracuse, via Acireale and Catania, Catania
and Mt. Etna and Lipari Islands. (Steam-
ers twice a week from Mcstina to Malta.)
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I Book
liKKI.IX.
[THE EMPIRE OF GERMANY.]
BERLIN.
BERLIN.
On arriving at the station at Berlin, a
controller will be found at the door who
distributes metallic tickets which corre-
spond with the number of the cab to which
the traveler is entitled. There are two
classes of cabs; ask for "Erste Classe,"
or " Zweite Classe;" and if not familiar
enough with the language to call out the
number, give it to a porter, who will de-
posit your small parcels therein. The out-
side porter, however, has nothing to do
with carrying out your baggage, and must
be paid separately.
Berlin, the capital of Prussia, contains
l.l-'-2,3GO inhabitants. Principal hotels,
Grand Central Hotel, the Kttiserhf, and
Hotel de Rome. The Grand Central Ho-
tel, one of the most magnificent houses
in Germany, was opened in 1881 ; it has
700 rooms, beautiful winter -garden, etc.
It is on the Friedrichstrasse, opposite the
Stadt-Bahnhof. The Kaiserhof is a mag-
nificent, palatial building on the Zi< th< n-
platz, greatly frequented by English and
Americans. It does a large wine and ex-
portation business with America. Hotel de
Rome, a new and magnificent building, con-
taining 200 rooms and saloons, is situated on
the Unter den Linden, the most fashiona-
ble thoroughfare, in the immediate vicin-
ity of the King's Palace, Royal Museum,
and Picture-Gallery. The cooking here is
admirable, prices reasonable, and the land-
lord (Mr. Miihling) very attentive to his
guests.
Berlin is situated on the River Spree, a
small sluggish stream, and is ordinarily
the residence of the monarch. It is one
of the largest and handsomest cities in
Europe, being about twelve miles in cir-
cumference. It lias a garrison of 20,000
soldiers. The Spree intersects the city,
insulating one of its quarters, and is cross-
ed by more than fifty bridges in various
parts of the city. The Spree is navigable
for barges, and is connected by means of
canals with the Oder, as well as the Elbe,
so that the water communication of Berlin
is very extensive.
The most prominent objects of attraction
to the stranger are the splendid palaces
and other buildings found upon either side
of the principal street, called Unttr den
Linden, from its magnificent avenue of
limes. At one extremity of this street Is
the Brandenburg gate, which forms the
principal entrance to the city, and is sur-
mounted by a magnificent triumphal arch,
erected in 1789. It is a copy of the Pro-
pylaeum at Athens. The Car of Victory
on the top was taken to Paris by Napoleon
as a trophy, but was returned after the
battle of Waterloo. Most of the other
streets are plain and without ornament;
but there are some extensive open spaces
or places adorned with statues.
The colossal equestrian statue of Fred-
erick the Great is one of the most magnifi-
cent monuments in Europe; covering the
sides of a pedestal of granite, twenty-five
feet high, are bronze groups, size of life,
of all the leading generals and statesmen
during the Seven Years' War, amounting
in all to thirty-one persons; chief among
these are four of his generals : the Duke
of Brunswick, Prince Heinrich of Prus-
sia, General Seydlitz, and General Zie-
then. At each corner of the pedestal,
above the groups, are figures of Justice,
Prudence, Fortitude, and Temperance ; be-
tween these are bass-reliefs representing
different periods in the life of Frederick :
the Muse teaching him history; Mercury
giving him a sword ; walking in the gar-
dens of his palace, surrounded by his fa-
vorite companions, greyhounds ; playing
on his flute; in the weaver's hut; draw-
ing the plan of a battle after his defeat at
Rollin. On the front tablet is the follow-
ing inscription : " To Frederick the Great.
Frederick William III., 1840, completed
by Frederick William IV., 1851." The
equestrian statue is seventeen feet high,
and most perfect in all its proportions ; a
mantle hangs from the monarch's shoul-
ders, his stick hanging from his wrist ; all
is most perfect and true to life. It is the
production of Ranch.
Berlin owes much to the taste and mu-
nificence of its sovereigns. The quarter
called the New Stadt was built by the great
elector, Frederick William, in the middle
of the 17th centurv. He also planned
561
BKRLIX.
[THE EMPIRE OF GERMANY.]
BERLIN.
Unter don Linden Street, and otherwise
greatly enlarged and beautified the city.
The succeeding monarchs, especially Fred-
erick I., Frederick the Great, and the late
monarch, have added many new streets,
squares, and suburbs, and have embellish-
ed the city with many splendid buildings
and monuments. The long bridge of stone
which crosses the Spree has a fine eques-
trian bronze statue of the great elector,
Frederick William, and is considered a
work of great merit. Opposite the Guard-
house stands the bronze statue of Blucher,
and on each side stand the marble st:itues
of Generals Bulow and Scharnhorst, all by
Rauch.
The Unter den Linden is considered one
of the finest streets in Europe. It is about
one mile long, from the ro} r al palace to
the Brandenburg gate. The fine avenues
in the centre are composed of chestnut,
linden, plantain, acacia, and afpen trees,
whose various foliage contrasts beautifully
with the elegant palaces and public build-
ings that line each side of the street. Here
are the palaces of the Emperor; that of the
Prince Imperial Frederick William of
Prussia (son-in-law to Queen Victoria), of
the Queen of Holland, the Academy of
Fine Arts, the Opera-house, the Arsenal,
and the Seminaries of the Artillery and
Engineers. Here the fashionable and
wealthy exhibit themselves and their
splendid equipages.
Berlin is the first city in Germany for
the variety of its manufacturing works.
The principal are those of cloths, linen, car-
pets, silks, ribbons, and printed cottons,
Berlin jewelry, paper, porcelain, and music-
al instruments. It is the great centre of
instruction and intellectual development
in Northern Germany. Its libraries are
large, and its educational establishments
very numerous. Its University, founded in
1808, comprising schools of jurisprudence,
medicine, and philosophy, has nearly two
thousand scholars. It has an Academy
of Fine Arts, an Academy of Sciences, an
Academy for the Encouragement of Indus-
try, and an Academy of Music, a Geo-
g -aphical Society, and Society of Natural
History, a Theologies! Seminar}', Schools
of Artillery, Military Engineering, Archi-
tecture, Sculpture, Painting, and Music.
The fixtures which strike the eye in the
streets of Hcrlin are vast fronts of build-
OG2
ing?, ornaments, statues, inscriptions, a
profusion of gilding, guard-houses, sentry-
bones ; the movables are sentries present-
ing arms every minute, officers with feath-
ers and orders passing unceasingly, hack-
ney droskies rattling about, and numbers
of well-dressed people. The streets are
spacious and straight, with broad margins
on each side for foot-passengers, and a band
of plain flag-stones on these margins make
them much more walkable than the streets
of most Continental towns.
The German capital has numerous res-
taurants and cafes in fact, they are to be
seen at every turning. Hitler's Restaurant,
62, 63 Unter den Linden, can be specially
recommended as enjoying the very highest
reputation for excellence and elegance.
Genuine Bavarian beer may be found at
Wagner's, 48 Charlottenstrasse, and at
Olbrich's, 83 Friedrichstrasse.
Tea and coffee constitute the favorite
beverages of the higher classes; and the
latter, when they can afford it, is popular
with all ranks. The gin-palaces are su-
perior to those of London, and more fre-
quented, dram-drinking being very preva-
lent in Berlin.
The droskies, or cabs, are open and shut,
and of two classes. The drivers of the
first-class are known by a white band
which they wear on their hats. They are
very good, but of limited number; their
fare for one or two persons, one and half
miles, is 1 mark. Three or four persons,
1 mark 50 pfennigs. The second-class
droskies charge for the same distance, one
or two persons, 50 pfennigs; for three or
four persons, 75 pfennigs. These prices
are augmented 25 pfennigs coming from or
going to the stations, and are doubled be-
tween midnight and 7 A.M.
For longer courses than one and half
miles a bargain should be made. The
driver is compelled to show you his tariff
of prices when asked for.
Very good carriages may be had for 15
marks per day, 1 mark pourboire. The
price is higher on Sundays and fete days.
American tramway (1'ferde-Eisenbahn)
to Charlottenburg and West-end every 10
minutes.
Omnibuses traverse the city in every di-
rection.
Steamers on the Spree leave the bridge
Jaiinowitz every half hour for Stralau,
BERLIN.
[THE EMPIRE OF GERMANY.]
BKRLIN.
Treptow, Eirhaeuschen, Neuerkrug, Se-
dan, Sadowa, and Kopnick.
Jiailif ;.'/ S(a>in.f. Tlicre :ire eight dif-
ferent railway stations in Berlin. For
Leipzig. Dn-Mli'ii. Prague, Vienna, Halle,
and Frankfort, the Anfiul? Station. For
Potsdam. Magdeburg, and Brunswick, the
; Station. For Frankfort-on-the-
Oder, Posen. Breslau, and Vienna, the
'>rl Station. For Stettin, Stratum',
Pomerania. and Dantzic, the Stettin Station.
For Ciistrin, D.mtzie, and Kiinigsberg,
,i Station. For Hamburg, Mecklen-
burg, and Holstein, the Hamburg Station.
For Riesen-Gebirga, the Gorlitz Station.
For Hanover, Bremen, and Cologne, the
Lehrte Station.
!--aj>h. The central office is in the
FranzOsischestrasae, but there are nearly
twenty other offices. At the present time
(1879) a message to New York costs forty
marks ; this price is liable to change. To
France and Switzerland, 3 marks '20 pfen-
nigs ; England, 5 in. Go pf.: Holland, 2 m.;
Italv. 5 m. The branch offices are open
from 8 A.M. to 9 P.M.; the central office
all night.
Post-ojfict '. The central office is in the
Leipzi/ where the traveler must
apply for any special information. The
office is open from 8 A.M. to 8 P.M. On
Sundays it is closed from 9 A.M. to 5 P.M.
Letters to America, France, and Italy,
30 pfennigs: England. 23 pf.; Switzerland,
Belgium, and Holland, 20 pf.
THEATRES.
The Opera-hrmse is one of the finest in
Europe, and few cities on the Continent
can boast such an opera company and such
a corps de ballet under one roof. There is
no city where music is more universally
patronized, or where the opera is better
performed or more heartily appreciated
than in Berlin. Mr. Strang says, ''It is
not fashion, but a passion for the art that
prompts the crowd of admiring listeners to
congregate in the Opera-house listeners
whose judicious applause is at once illus-
trative of their taste for and knowledge
of good music." The house holds 2000
spectators. The opera begins at 6.30 (near-
ly all the theatres commence at this hour)
and is over at 10. The best places
are Loge des Etranyers. price 10 marks ;
Atant Scene, 7 m. ; First Ba'cony, 5J m.
The Dentscher Theater, similar to the Theatre
I-'ranyii* of Paris, was opened in 1883.
The \etc Theatre, built by Schinkel, is
ornamented with a good deal of sculpture.
This theatre is dedicated to the regular
drama, and is generally well attended.
The German and French company play
alternate nights. The pieces are splendid-
ly put upon the stage. The prices are,
Loge des Et rangers, oi- m. ; Avant Scene
and Fir.it Ba'cony, 4 m. This theatre
commences at six o'clock, and is oft -n
visited by the emperor and imperial faiiu
i]y. There is a fine marble statue of Schil-
ler in front of the house. There is at-
tached to it subscription -rooms for balls
and concerts, which are frequently attend-
ed by the court. The concert-room is of
beautiful architectural proportions, and is
capable of holding 1200 persons. There
are also the Victoria Theatre, 'Friedrich
Wilhelmstaltei' Theatre, Wallner Theatre,
If,//'. r*lorf Theatre, Residenz Theatre. \u-
(ional Theatre, Variete Theatre, Belle Alli-
ance Theatre, and a circus during a short
season.
The Orpheum is a ball-room where the
lower classes dance and the higher classes
look on. The sights seen here are often
very amusing. The condiltoris are much
frequented by the upper classes. They
resemble our confectioners' shops, but are
far more spacious, and fitted up with great-
er attention to comfort and elegance. In
addition to refreshments of all kinds, they
are supplied with foreign and domestic
newspapers, and literary and scientific
journals.
There is a Sing-Academie, an amateur
musical association of male and female
performers, mostly belonging to the high-
er classes, who meet weekly for practice,
and give several delightful concerts every
year, to which the public are freely admit-
ted. The performance of sacred vocal mu-
sic is carried to a high state of perfection.
Concerts. The Kroll concerts, in the
Thiergarten, are given in a magnificent
saloon lighted by six hundred gas-burn-
ers, and are much frequented. On Sun-
days a grand table d'hote is served at 2
o'clock for two marks.
Behind Kroll's is another establishment
called TentfS : farther on in the same direc-
tion is the palace of Beltevue, the residence
of Duke William of Mecklenburg-Schwerin,
563
BKRLIN.
[THE EMPIRE OF GERMANY.]
BERLIN.
which contains some good pictures : the
park is open to the public. All these
gardens and parks are thronged with vis-
itors during Sundays and holidays.
SIGHTS OF BERLIN.
The best distribution of time may be made
brconsultiiiitthe //otel-Zcituiiy, as the hours
of admission to the different objects of inter-
est are continually being changed.
Daily. Royal Museum of Pictures and
Sculptures and New Museum, every day
between 10 and 4, Sundays and fete days
excepted ; Royal Palace, 10 to 4 ; Royal
Library, 10 to 1, Sundays and fete days
exeepted ; National Gallery, 11 to 2, fete
days excepted ; Historical Museum, 10 to
5; Raczynski Picture - Gallery, 11 to 3 ;
Exposition of Artists, 10 to 4, Sundays and
fete days, 11 to 3 ; Zoological Garden, from
9A.M.; Charlottenburg, all day ; Chang-
ing Guard and Military Band opposite the
Court House, 11 A.M. ; Palace of the Em-
peror and Prince Imperial, in their absence;
Exchange and Rathhaus, 12 to 2 ; Reichs-
tag, on the days when there is no sitting.
Sunday: Water -works at Sans Souci,
Potsdam, 12 to dusk; Hotel de Ville, 11
to 4 ; Museum of Mines, 8 to 3.
Monday : Hotel de Ville, 11 to 4 ; Royal
Museums arc closed.
Tuesday: Beuth - Schinkel's Museum,
11 to 1 ; Gallery Ravene, 11 to 2 ; Serres
Borsig, all day ; Museum of Mines, 8 to 3 ;
Zoological Museum, 12 to 2; Cabinet of
Mineralogy, 12 to 2 ; Royal Mint, by per-
mission.
Wednesday : Anatomical Museum, 2 to
4 ; Observatory, 9 to 11 ; Mineralogical
Cabinet, 12 to 2; Arsenal, 2 to 4 ; Hotel
de Ville, 11 to 4 ; Aquarium, after dark up
to P.M. lighted with gas.
Thursday : Water-works at Sans Souci,
(Grand Fountain) afternoon ; Museum of
Mines, 8 to 3 ; Models of Fortresses.
Friday : Museum of Schinkel, 11 to 1 ;
Gallery Ravene, 11 to 2 ; Serres Borsig,
all day.
Saturday: Museum of Mines, 8 to 3;
Observatory, 9 to 11 A.M. ; Ai>enal, '2 to
4; Gewerbe- Academy (models), 10 to 12
A.M. ; Aquarium, from dusk to t) P.M.
The Museum of Berlin stands unrivaled
in Europe, that is, if taken as a whole. As
a building, there are few that can surpass
it : the splendid marble columns and stair-
5G4
cases, the cleanliness and order with which
ever}- thing is arranged, renders the effect
truly magnificent. Its picture-gallery may
be surpassed by the picture-gallery at
Dresden, or the Uffizi Gallery or Pitti Pal-
ace at Florence ; but they have not its Mu-
seum of Antiquities nor historical relics.
On the ground floor is the Museum of
Antiquities, on the first the Sculpture-Gal-
lery, and on the second the Picturf-Gal-
lery. In the rear of the Old Museum, and
connected with it by a covered arcade,
stands the New Museum, a splendid build-
ing, rich in antiquities, Egyptian and
Northern, as well as historical and ethno-
logical collections. In front of the Old
Museum is the Lustgartcn, in the centre
of which stands the equestrian statue of
Friedrich Wilhelm III., by Wolff, erected
in 1871. On the other two sides of the
(larten arc the Palace and Cathedral. Here
may be seen the enormous vase of polished
granite, 6G feet in circumference, the larg-
est in the world. The block out of which
it was made was brought from Fiirsten-
wald, a distance of 32 miles, by floating
it down the Spree. It was polished by
steam - engines, and placed where it now
stands with incredible labor and expense.
On the right of the staircase stands the
celebrated group in bronze of a mounted
Amazon repelling the attack of a tiger, by
Kiss. On the left is a young horseman
launching his spear at an overthrown lion,
by Wolff.
Under the portico are marble statues of
four of Prussia's greatest artists and an-
tiquarians : that of Schinkel, by Tieck ;
Rauch, by Wichmann ; Winckelmann, by
Drake; and Scbadow, by Hagen.
The front walls of the colonnade are
adorned with frescoes executed under the
direction of Cornelius from the designs of
Schinkel. They are allegorical representa-
tions of the creation of the universe and
the civilization of mankind, and are much
admired. On the left is the Dance of the
Constellations : Jupiter organizes the new
course of the world ; Saturn ani the Titans,
having withdrawn into the shades of the
past. I'rometheus steals the heavenly fire
from the Dioscuri to give light to the earth ;
Luna drives her chariot to illuminate the
night ; Night unfolds her mantle, dis-
playing her sleeping children ; War still
slumbers ; Maternal love ; Peace ; the
BERLIN.
[THE
Muse ; a Child waters the earth w
rain; the Sun in his chariot rising froi.
the sea surrounded by tlie Graces, while^
a choir of harp.'rs herald his coming.
On the right is the Morning of life ; con-
test of Shepherds : the Muse and Psyche;
Summer and Noon : Harvest and its joys ;
Pegasus on the heights of Helicon, under
hoof springs the fountain of imag-
ination : Music of the forest : Nymphs
pour water into the fountain from which
the poet draws inspiration; Evening and
Autumn ; Sculpture ; Architecture : the
leaves of the Acanthus suggest the idea
of the Corinthian capital : Warrior's return
home: Festival of the wine-press; Age
rejoices at the visit of the Muses : the
wise man contemplating thc stars ; Luna j
descends into the sea; Commencement of
the new day.
Beneath the frescoes are smaller paint-
ings, those on the right representing the
Myth of Theseus, those on the left of Her-
cules.
A double staircase leads directly to the
gallery of the rotunda througli which the
Picture-* iallery is entered ; on the staircase
is a copy of the celebrated Warwick Vase,
also busts of Huml)oldt and Altenstein.
There are some tine frescoes designed
by Schinkel at the entrance to the ro-
tunda, representing the struggle of civ-
ilization against the barbarians and thc
elements.
Sculpture-Gallery. The entrance to this
gallery is through a grand circular hall
called the rotunda, rising the whole height
of the building, in the centre of which is a
statue in bronze of Frederick William III.
in the garb of a Roman emperor, by Kiss.
Between the columns which support the
dome are placed eighteen ancient statues.
Above these is the celebrated Gobelins tap-
estry worked from the cartoons of Raphael
for Henry VIII. at Arras; purchased by
the Duke of Alba at the sale of the ef-
fects of Charles I., and bought by Fred-
erick William IV. in 1*11.
The Sculpture -Gallery is indebted for
its origin to Frederick fie Great, and is
principally composed of the collection of
Cardinal Polignac. It comprises over one
thousand pieces of ordinary merit.
From the rotunda the visitor enters into
the gallery of Gods and Heroes. The gem
of this collection is the Boy Praying ; it is
GERMANY j
BERLIN,
' the history of mankind. First, the Fall
of Babel, and the Dispersion of the Na-
! tions. In the foreground the division of
j s *he tribes. Second, the Prosperity of
, )v '-eece. Homer approaching its shores.
likciH-G 0( te of Olympus in a rainbow above.
no en is 1)t ' strllction of Jerusalem by Titus.
duction. r re S round the High-priest killing
'
A stairwa - Ahasuerus, the Wan-
rotunda into i flecin f- A Christian family
roes descends t f v, "hile four prophets above
Antiquarium. whX? tlon - . ^urth, the Battle
lection of medals, r? m . e . !" the ^ckground.
h of hlm
..
cabinet of medals con hleld .
sand specimens, and is a?,/ thc * S<*h*-
Here may be seen the llon " lth u h ' s Cru '
" Hildesheimer Silberscha, , Slx | h > A S e of
at Hildesheim. ten feet belol 10 altar ls 8een
of the soil, in 1868. It consist. rround , ed b >'
plate (embossed silver) of the ti?. nd Bu g en -
gustus. lumerous
The Picturt-Callfry. There is 'u . cele "
oat.iloguc published of this collection,' 1 U
addition to which each room contains
catalogue of the pictures therein, whicl?"
renders it unnecessary to give the num-
bers in this guide. The gallery is di-
vided into thirty -seven rooms, each distin-
guished by a number over the entrance.
The passage conducts the visitor into
room No. 4; by turning to the right and
proceeding through four rooms he will
commence at No. 1. the beginning of the
Italian school : returning through Nos. 2, 3,
and 4, he will continue to his left, visiting in
succession thc Italian. French, and Span-
ish schools ; then retracing his steps to
where he commenced, he will continue to
the right through the Flemish and Ger-
man schools. The collection of pictures
here has been much augmented by the
removal from the palace of Sans Souci,
in Potsdam, and different royal palaces in
Berlin, the principal works of art con-
tained therein, which has been done with
the permission of the king.
The formation epoch, or Venetian school,
as shown in room No. 1, commenced about
H30. Notice No. _'. dma, the Vir-in with
Saint; ; No. '2*. .\fnntegna. the body of
Christ carried by two Angels. Room two
contains some fine specimens of the ear-
ly Florentine school. Notice the Virgin
adoring the infant Christ. No. t',9, by Filip-
po Lippi ; and the Annunciation, by Pal-
565
BERLIX.
[THE EMPIRE OF GERMANY.]
BERLIN.
lajuolo. In the third room notice a Leo-
nardo da Vinci, a Virgin with the Child.
In room fifth there are several fine paint-
ings by Francesco Francia ; No. 135, Ra-
phael, Christ at the Tomb; No. 140, Gio-
eanni Santi, father of Raphael, an altar-
piece ; No 150, Adoration of the Magi, by
Giovanni lo Spagno, wrongly attributed to
Raphael.
Room sixth contains several works by
Titian : among others his own portrait, also
that of his daughter Lavinia ; No. 180, a
Venus, by Bordone ; and the Washing the
Feet, by Pordenone. Room seventh con-
tains another fine picture by this artist,
No. 190, the Woman taken in Adultery.
In room eighth are two pictures by Cor-
reggio lo and the Cloud, and Leda and
the Swan well worth examination, not
only as works of art, and for the celebrity
of the master, but on account of the inci-
dents connected with them. They were
formerly in the gallery of Philippe, duke
of Orleans, while Regent of France, and
were considered the most precious gems
there. After his death they descended to
his son, Louis, duke of Orleans, who was
renowned for his piety. From motives of
false delicacy, he cut out the heads of lo
and Leda, and burned them. He also cut
the picture of Leda to pieces, but by acci-
dent the pieces were not destroyed. Both
pictures were purchased by Frederick the
Great. The head of lo was replaced by
a French artist, and that of Leda by a
German. You can hardly discover that
they have ever suffered from any ill treat-
ment.
Room ninth contains some fine speci-
mens of the Florentine, Roman, Bologna,
and Ferrara schools ; among others, notice
No. 141, R'iph-iel, the Virgin reading ; No.
247,_.gag&ifl, tUe_Virgin with the Saviour
"and St. John, in the artist's first style, pur-
chased at Naples for $33,375 ; No. '248,
Raphu'l, th" %l Madonna di Casa Colonna,"
so called after tne palace where "it was
found this was purchased for $15,000;
No. 249, Fra Eartolomeo, the Assumption
of the Virgin.
In the eleventh room are several por-
traits by Tintoretto ; notice No. 300, by
the same artist ; in the next room. No.
316, Tintoretto, St. Mark, and three Pro-
curators ; No. 326, Paul Veronese, Jupiter,
Juno, Cvbele, and Neptune.
566
In the fourteenth room. No. 365, Cura-
vaggio, St. Matthew; and No. 359, the
same, Mount of Olives ; No. 385, the Del-
uge, by Doinenich'mo.
The fifteenth room contains a fine Carlo
Dolci, No. 423 ; and a Holy Family, by
Mengs, No. 483.
The next room contains several works
by Raphael Mengs ; and a Madonna, by
Van der Verff.
The seventeenth room, admirably light-
ed from the top, contains some fine speci-
mens of the French and Spanish schools.
There are several Murillos. No. 408, a pen-
itent Magdalene, and No. 414, St. Antonio
of Padua and the infant Jesus ; No. 428,
a Landscape, by Claude Lorraine ; No. 431 ,
Shipwreck, by Salcator Rosa ; No. 463,
Landscape, by JV. Poussin ; No. 369, Love,
by Caravaggio ; No. 471, the Family of M.
Jabach, of Cologne ; No. 468, the Pleasures
of French Comedy, by Watteau.
The visitor will now retrace his steps to
the fifth room on the right of the entrance,
where the Dutch and German pictures
commence, and here in the first room he
will find twelve pictures, the gems of the
collection, from Nos. 512 to 525. These
paintings, which are on six panels, are by
John and Hub. van Eyck. There were orig-
inalty thirteen panels, which formed the
wings of the celebrated altar-piece known
as the " Worship of the Spotless Lamb,"
in St. Bevon's Church at Ghent; they
were carried off by the French, and six fell
into the hands of a dealer when Paris was
taken in 1815, and sold to an Englishman
by the name of Solly for 100,000 francs,
who again sold them to the Museum for
375fOOO francs. Four of the others are
still at Ghent, two at Brussels, and the
third has disappeared. Every three days
the pictures are turned that the reverse
sides may be seen. They represent the
1 Just Judges. The old man on the hand-
some gray horse is a portrait of the painter
Hub. van Eyck : the black figure looking
! round is his brother John. The second,
Champions of Christ; third and fourth,
singingand playing Angels; fifth. Hermits;
and sixth. Pilgrims. On the reverse are
John the Baptist; Burgomaster of Ghent;
Annunciation ; and the Angel Gabriel and
the Virgin ; portrait of the wife of Jodocii*
Vyts, the burgomaster, as St. Elizabeth .
: and St. John the F.vangelist.
BERLIN.
In the same room arc copies of the pan-
els at Ghent : also No. . r .:j:',. Klijah IVd by
AngfK l>y Mfmliny; audfi.U. l>.-.-<vnt from
the Cross, by Vun der Weydf ; 501, Virgin
I the Child, liy Quentin Mntfj.*: ' M.
Rubens and Xnydcrit. a Stag-hunt : 77*. tin-
dead Christ mourned over by Mary Mag-
dalene, Van Dyck ; the Children of Charles
I. of England, by the same : 810, Rem-
brandt, a portrait of himself at the age of
28 ; 802, also l.y Rtmlrakdt. the Duke
Adolphusof Guelders threatens his captive
Father: >'><'>. l'< Msants in an Ale -house;
884, Sea-piece, by Ruysdntl ; 888, a Storm,
by Backkui/srn ; 973. Bear-hunt, by Snyders,
one of the finest pictures in the gallery ;
inptation of St. Anthony, by Tenters,
a most humorous production. The figures
are portraits : the artist as the saint : his
wife has a small portion of the devil's tail
sticking out from under her dress, while
the representative of that unfortunate class
of humanity, the mother-in-law, is repre-
sented as a mo>t decided devil. Two por-
trait- of old people by Denntr. most re-
markable productions, and very highly val-
ued, copies of which are to be seen in every
direction.
In the rear of the Old Museum there is
-age to the .\V / Mut.iint. a bridge
supported by columns. This beautiful
building was completed in 1855, after de-
signs by Xti'fter, and is internally the most
elegantly decorated building in Berlin.
The ground floor contains the Egyptian
Musi-urn, the Ethnological Collection, and
the \orthern A niiquities. On the first floor
are Casts of Sculpture, and on the upper
floor the Historical Collection. Architectural
Models, and Cabinet of Engraving?.
In the centre of the building is th.'
noble staircase, which forms a single flight
from the ground floor to the top of the
building. It is one hundred and thirty-
two feet high, and its walls are decorated
with Kaulbaeh's magnificent paintings in
water-rolor. by a new process, called " \Va<-
serglass-Malerei," a stereo-cromic process,
which consists in first preparing the sur-
face with a solution of silica and alkali.
then using the ordinary colors in distem-
per, covering the whole with the first
preparation, which forms a coat of thin
glass resisting the action of the acids.
The frescoes are divided into six sec-
tions, and represent important events in
VOL. II. B 2
|THK EMPIRE OF GERMANY.]
BERLIN,
the history of mankind. First, the Fall
of Babel, and the Dispersion of the Na-
tions. In the foreground the division of
the tribes. Second, the Prosperity of
Greece. Homer approaching its snores.
The Gods of Olympus in a rainbow above.
Third, Destruction of Jerusalem by Titus.
In the foreground the High-priest killing
himself and family. Ahasuerus, the Wan-
dering Jew, fleeing. A Christian family
leaving the city, while four prophets above
predict its destruction. Fourth, the Battle
of the Huns. Rome in the background.
Attila borne on a shield ; in front of him
stands Theodoric, king of the Visigoths.
Fifth, Godfrey de Bouillon with his Cru-
saders before Jerusalem. Sixth, Age of
the Reformation. Before the altar is seen
Luther, holding up a Bible, surrounded by
Calvin, Melanchthon, Zwingli, and Bugen-
hagen, while sitting around are numerous
i early Reformers, and on either side cele-
brated monarchs, philosophers, artists, au-
' thors, and generals. Around the entire
hall is a frieze representing the develop-
ment of mankind.
The Egyptian Museum is situated on the
ground floor of the building. In one of the
halls there is an Egyptian temple, sur-
rounded with pillars, and inclosing statues
of deities and kings. The whole collec-
tion is one of the most complete in Europe.
! Here are the ancient Egyptians' weapons
1 of offense and defense, implements used in
the various arts, articles of dress, medicine-
chests, cooking-utensils, instruments used
in embalming, such as brass hooks for
drawing the brain through the nostrils,
mummies of sacred animals they wor-
shiped, the contents of the tomb of a high-
priest brought from Thebes, viz., 2 mod-
els of such vessels as navigated the Nile
in former days, completely rigged, with
figures of a dead body and party of mourn-
ers on board ; a priest's wand, the leg and
skull-bone of an ox. These antiquities
fill five different apartments, and are most-
ly the collections of M. Lipsius, General
Minutoli, and M. Passalacqua.
The Berlin Museum is rich in its Histor-
ical Collections and works of art. and i
situated on the second floor of the Museum.
Among the latter is the Life of Christ,
carved in wood, an ivory crucifix by Mi-
chael Angelo, a head carved in wood by
Albert Dilrer.an ornamented cabinet made
567
BERLIN.
[THE EMPIRE OF GERMANY.]
for Philip II., duke of Pomerania. The
principal relics are the decorations and or-
ders of the Emperor Napoleon, presented
by the different sovereigns of Europe, also
his hat, all of which were found in his
traveling-carriage at Waterloo, from which
he escaped so narrowly ; a miniature wind-
mill made by Peter the Great while learn-
ing the trade of shipwright at the docks
of the East India Company at Amsterdam,
i wax figure of Frederick the Great, in the
same uniform he wore the day of his death,
surrounded by his books, walking - cane,
flute, a cast taken of his face after death,
the ball with which he was wounded at
the battle of Rossbach, etc. Here are also
two cannon-balls, both flattened on one
side. It is said they met in the air at the
siege of Magdeburg. There are also nu-
merous relics of the father of Frederick the
Great, prominent among which are his to-
bacco-pipes, a gaudy white dress that be-
longed to Murat, and a thousand other things
our space will not permit us to mention.
The Ethnological Collection comprises
numerous articles of dress and weapons,
and implements of foreign nations. It is
contained in thirty-four large glass cases.
In the American collection is a mantle of
red and yellow feathers, presented to Fred-
erick William III. by the King of the
Sandwich Islands.
The Collection of Engravings, 500,000 in
number, is placed on the second floor of
the building. It is only open to the pub-
lic on Sundays. There are also 20,000
drawings and etchings.
The Collection of Casts occupies the whole
of the first floor of the New Museum, and
is contained in twelve saloons. It is con-
sidered the richest and best-arranged col-
lection of copies, illustrating chronological-
ly the history of sculpture by its most cel-
ebrated works. The most ancient produc-
tions of sculpture are placed in the North
Court. Then, entering the first room to
the right of the grand staircase, the ear-
liest specimens of Greek art will be seen.
Passing through an anteroom, where there
is a copy of the celebrated Laocoon at
Rome, the Apollo Saloon is entered. Here
the principal object of attraction is an
admirable reproduction of the great Far-
nese Bull, the largest marble group of an-
tiquity. The next room contains Ajax
with the bod}' of Achilles.
568
BERLIN.
In the Saloon of the Niobides may be
seen a reproduction of that celebrated
group of Niobe now in the Uffizi Gallon-
at Florence. The figures once stood in
j the tympanum of a temple of Apollo.
| Here^also is the Dying Gladiator.
In saloon eight, called the Saloon of
Bacchus, are small casts, mostly taken
from objects found at Pompeii; one of the
principal is a sitting she-wolf.
In the Roman Saloon arc casts of the
principal Venuses of the world : Venus
de Medici, Venus of Milo, Venus Callipy-
gos, Capitoline Venus, Dancing Faun, etc.
The Cupola Saloon, or No. ten, contains
three large mural paintings, viz., Christi-
anity constituting the religion of the state,
by Slilke. Wittekind submitting to Charle-
magne, copied from Kaulbach. Inaugura-
tion of the Church of St. Sophia by the
Emperor Justinian, by Schroder. In the
centre is a copy of the Medici Vase.
The Mediaeval Saloon contains decora,
tions of French, English, and German
churches.
The last saloon is called the Hall of
Modern Art, and contains Michael Angelo's
Monuments of the Medici, Ghiberti's Doors
of the Baptistery at Florence, Canova's
Lion, and the Mercury of Giovanni da
Bologna.
It would be well to employ a valet de
place the first daj r the traveler vi-dts the
Gallery and Museum, after that he can go
alone.
National Gallery a very handsome
structure, finished in 1876. It is situated
at one side of the New Museum, and con-
tains, first, the celebrated collection of
Wagner, who was a banker, and one of the
first collectors of Germany, and who be-
queathed this selection to the city for the
purpose of forming a nucleus for a National
Gallery. The pictures are mostly modern,
by artists of the school of Munich and
Dusseldorf, and were formerly placed in
the Academy < if Fine Arts. Mr. Wagner
died in 1861. The collection contained
340 pictures. Among the number are
works by Achenbach. Meyer of Bremen,
Meyerheim, Hildebrandt, Schadow, Corne-
lius, Steinbruck, and numerous others of
the first artists of Germany, whose pro-
ductions may lie bought at Lepke's gal-
lery in the Unter den Linden any day.
The traveler has a longing, naturally, to
BERLIN
[THE EMPIRE OF GERMANY.]
BERLIN
possess all beautiful works of art which he
sees ; but nearly always the artist is dead,
and the works he leaves behind are only
within the reach of governments ; here one
can see the style he likes, and purchase
pictures by the same artist. In this gal-
lery the great progress of German art can
be seen. A commission of the Academies
of Berlin, Dusseldorf, and Konigsberg de-
cides each year on the new purchases to be
made. An exhibition takes place during
the last months of every year. A cata-
logue is being prepared this year (1&76).
Post-office. A curious museum was open-
ed in 1875. containing models of the prin-
cipal post-houses in Germany. Wax fig-
ures of the size of life represent postilions
in dress and undress uniform ; there is a
large number of models of carriages and
post-wagons with their internal arrange-
ments ; maps and geographical drawings,
with a collection of 2500 postage-stamps of
all countries in the world.
The University is a large and magnifi- '
cent building, and ranks, as an educational
establishment, second to none in Germany.
In its left wing is the Museum of Natural
History, op-.-n on Tuesdays and Fridays
from \'l ti '_'. Tickets of admission are given
out the day previous by the directors. On ,
the right wing uf the building is the Ana-
tomical Museum, one of the most valuable
in Europe. It is open every Wednesday
and Saturday, from 4 to 6 in the summer,
and from 2 to 4 in the winter.
The Royal Library is a very indifferent- '
looking building, but it contains, in addi-
tion to a large number of valuable relics
and curiosities, over 500,000 volumes and
5000 MSS. There is also a public reading-
room and a private reading-room, where
may be seen all the reviews and journals
of the day. One of the most intere>ting
curiosities in the library is an album, with
six very beautiful miniature portraits by
Lucas Cranaeh ; Luther's Bible, from which
he made his translation ; his translation
of the Psalms; Gutenberg's Bible, the first
book printed with movable types (1450) ;
also the prayer-book which Charles I. car- :
ried to the scaffold : the two hemispheres
of metal by which < )tto Guericke discovered
the principles of the air-pump, and numer-
ous other articles of great interest to the
scientific traveler.
The Royal Palace is a building of im-
mense size, built of brick and covered
with stucco. At the gate stand the
bronze horses, with grooms, copied from
the "Monte Cavallo" horses at Rome
a gift from the Emperor Nicholas. The
sumptuous furniture, the grandeur of the
apartments, and the historic interest which
liaiiL:~ about this palace, render it an ob-
ject of more than ordinary importance.
The royal chapel is quite modern in its fit-
tings, paintings, and decorations; it con-
tains numerous modern pictures and por-
traits. The White Hall is the most mag-
nificent apartment in Berlin; it contains
statues of the Brandenburg Electors and
allegorical figures. The Knights' Hall, or
throne -room, is sumptuously decorated.
Frederick the Great's rooms will be ex-
amined with much interest. It is said
this palace was formerly haunted by a
white lad;/, who appeared only to announce
the death of a member of the royal family.
The Schlosslrficke is ornamented with
eight groups of marble statuary, very fine-
ly executed. The Arsenal, on Unter den
Linden Street, is a very beautiful building.
It contains over 100,000 stand of arms, and
numerous warlike relics, such as samples
of all the weapons of war used by the dif-
ferent nations of Europe : the keys of nu-
merous fortresses captured by the Prus-
sians ; cannons, guns, colors, etc., etc.
The Palace of thf Emperor, an interest-
ing residence, is situated on the Linden,
facing the statue of Frederick the Great.
It may be visited in the absence of the
emperor, which is indicated by the flag
not being hoisted.
The Palace of the Prince Imperial, Fred-
erick William, on the Linden, in front of
the Arsenal, was at one time the residence
of Frederick the Great ; and here King
Frederick William III. lived and died. It
is shown in the absence of the family.
The Palace of Prince Charles, situated
on the Wilht-lmsplatz. contains a fine col-
lection of armor. Admission daily, from
10 to 5. It is rich in works of Italian mas-
ters. Address the Haushofmeister. No. 8.
The churches of Berlin are not of much
importance. The principal is the Cuthe-
ilral. situated on the eastern side of the
Lustgarten, between the Museum and Pal-
ace. It was founded about the middle of
the last century, and is celebrated for be-
ing the burial-place of some of the ances-
BERLIN.
[THE EMPIRE OF GERMANY.]
BERLIN.
tors of the royal family. It contains the
coffin of Frederick William, the great elect-
or, and Frederick I., king of Prussia. It
also contains statues of various electors,
and a mosaic of St. Peter, presented to the
late king by Pope Pius VII. The " Men-
delssohn's Choir" chant every Sunday at
10 A.M. Adjoining the Cathedral there
is a Campo Santo, or royal burial-ground.
The other churches are the Church of
Friedrichswerder, St. Peter's, St. Nicholas
this last contains the tomb of Pufendorf
and St. Iledicig. St. Michael's Roman Cath-
olic Church, finished in 1856, is a great
beaut}'. It was erected by Seller. The
statue of the Archangel Michael is by Kiss.
In Konigsplatz, No. 2, is situated the
Gallery Raczynski, a fine collection of mod-
ern pictures, visible from 11 to 3 every day
(catalogue, 7-| groschens). On the stair-
case is the Ganymede, by Tliortcaldsen.
No. 1, Christ in Hades, by Cornelius; 3,
Kaulbach's Battle of the Huns, as seen on
the grand staircase of the New Museum ;
14, Adam and Eve, by Deger; 21, Daugh-
ter of Herodias, by Schadow ; 37, Edward's
Children, by HUdebmndt; 38, Breakfast, by
Prfyer ; 58, Two Leonoras, by Sohn ; 115,
Pilgrims at Rome, by Paul Delaroche ; 142,
the Count Raczynski, by Madrazo.
In the centre of the Platz on which
stands the above gallery may be seen the
new Monument of Victory (SiegesdenkmaT),
constructed after the plans of Strack, a
pupil of Schinkel. It was unveiled Sep-
tember 2, 1873, in presence of the Emperor
William, although the mosaic cartoons
were still unfinished. The monument was
originally intended to commemorate the
wars with Denmark and Austria, but the
original design was changed to combine
the Franco-German War of 1870-71 as well.
The substructure is of square granite blocks,
on which rests an enormous square base,
with bass-reliefs by Siemering, destined to
perpetuate the late Prussian campaigns,
especially that of 1870-71 with France.
The base is surmounted by a portico, sur-
rounded by Doric columns, forming a tem-
ple, or Siegeshalle, with the names of the
battles and generals. Above the roof of
the temple, which is supported by sixteen
columns, rises a sandstone shaft with an
interior staircase. This shaft is divided into
three sections : the first containing twenty
Danish cannons, taken in battle these sur-
570
round the column ; next above are twenty
Austrian and above these twenty French
guns, the whole terminating with a capital
formed of eagles, and surrounded by a gilt
balustrade. This is crowned by a bronze
figure of Victory, by Drake, 43 feet high.
The reliefs represent on the east the at-
tack of a Danish fort at the battle of Kiinigs-
berg. On the north side the king decorat-
ing the crown-prince after the battle of Sa-
dowa. That on the west the delivery of
the letter of Napoleon III. to the King of
Prussia during the battle of Sedan. On
the south side is represented the triumphal
entrance of the troops into Berlin, June,
1871, with the words: "A grateful nation
to the victorious army." The allegorical
cartoons are by Salvati. The total height
of the monument is 58 metres 189 feet.
A bronze monument, erected to Baron
von Stein, the eminent Prussian statesman,
in the Donhofsplatz, was unveiled October
27, 1875, in presence of the crown-prince,
who attended as the representative of the
Emperor William, the crown-princess, the
Prince and Princess Charles of Prussia,
| Prince Frederick Charles, the Ministers,
j many generals and members of the Ger-
man Reichsrath and Prussian Diet, the
University professors, the clergy, the town
council, and municipal council of Berlin.
The Jtavene Collection is situated in
\ Wallstrasse, Nos. 92 and 93, and is open
on Tuesdays and Fridays from 11 to 2. En-
| trance, No. 92. Ring the first-floor bell.
This is a small but very choice collection
of modern German and French pictures.
Among the best is a Knaus, A Peasant-
Girl gathering Flower.-;, No. 1)7. Bohemian
Musicians, by Galltiit, No. 22. The Pleas-
: ures of Winter, by JJildebrandt. No. 4 6. No.
47, by the same. Massacre of the Jews in
London, by Robert Fleury, No. 142. Land-
scape with Animals, by Auguste and liosa
Bonheur, No. 14. Sea-piece, by Andreas
Achenbach.
The Gallery of Count Redern contains a
collection of ancient and modern pictures,
visible every day from 3 to 5, with permis-
\ sion. The palace contains several statues
by Ranch and Schwanthnler.
The Blankensee Gallery is situated at
No. 70 Unter den Linden. It can lie visit-
ed any day from 12 to 2, by special permis-
sion. It contains over two hundred an-
cient and modern pictures.
BERLIN.
[THE EMPIRE OF GERMANY.
BEBUX.
The Academy of Architecture contains
on the upper floor the tfchinkel Museum.
which is open to the public from 12 to 2
on Tuesdays ami Fridays. In it is a large
number of architectural drawings, sketch-
es, etc. : also the original designs of the
frescoes in the Museum.
The Museum if Jidtich, situated in the j
Lagerhaus, 7G Klo>t>-r-n-u--;>, contains a
collection of the works of that celebrated
sculptor.
The Hotel de Ville is an imposing struct-
ure, recently constructed of granite and
brick. Its size is 3-22 feet by 286. The in-
terior is to be seen every day gratis, from
11 to 4, except Thursdays and Fridays. To
ascend the tower, a ticket must be pro-
cured from the porter, for which half a
murk is demanded. The staircase and the
Banqueting and Municipal Halls are most
magnificently decorated.
The Iinyi.d foundry is situated in the In-
validenstr.isse, and may be seen daily (half
a mark fee). It contains a museum of
castings. The Hospital for old soldiers is
adjoining, in the centre of which stands a
monument erected to the memory of sol-
diers who fell in lsi<.
Opposite the Museum, on the other side
of the Spree, is situated the Bourse, or Ex-
ch'Aii'if, a handsome building, 2GO feet long
bv 2tin wide, built in the Renaissance style
of architecture, by Hitzig, and completed
in 1863.
The principal facade, which faces the
river on Btirgstrasse, is ornamented with
a double colonnade, surmounted in the
centre by a group in terra-cotta. represent-
ing Prussia protecting agriculture and
commerce, by Begas ; and on the wings are
smaller groups allegorical figures of the
different commercial cities in the world.
The principal hall is the largest in Berlin,
221 by 72 feet, divided into a Money and
Corn Exchange. It is beautifully 1'iv.
coed by Klilber. The hours of the Bourse
are from 12 to 2, when strangers are admit-
ted into the gallery. Enter from Ncue
Friedrichstrasse, the first door to the right,
and, mounting one flight, turn to the left. '
The Merchants' Club is situated over the
Exchange, to which your banker can in-
troduce you.
To the northwest of the Exchange is
the public garden of the Chateau Monbi-
jou, at present inhabited by the Princes*
Louise, daughter of Prince Charles. It ia
visiMe from 10 too, and contains an Histori-
cal Museum composed of relics of Branden-
burg and Prussia. One of the saloons is
exclusively devoted to Frederick the Great,
the Great Elector of Brandenburg, Fred-
crick I., and Frederick William I.
A visit should be paid to Boraigs's En-
gine-Factory, situated outside the Oranien-
burger gate ; three thousand men are here
employed.
The Industrial Museum is open to visitors
every day except Monday from 10 to 2.
Here may be seen an immense collection
of articles in all the various branches of
industry.
The Statues of Berlin are quite numer-
ous, in addition to that of Frederick the
Great, already described. There is on the
long bridge leading from the Konigstrasse
toSchlossplatx. the equestrian statue of
the Great Flu-tor. Frederick \\1Uiam. The
work is in bronze, and designed by Schlu-
ter. Opposite the Guard-house is a bronze
statue of Blucher, and on either side are
marble statues of Seharnhorst and Billow
von Dennewitz, both by Ranch.
Behind the Guard-house are cannons and
mortars brought from Paris after its capt-
ure by the allied armies.
N- ir the Potsdam gate are statues of the
heroes of the Seven-vears' War.
Berlin is celebrated for works of fine
art, and the best German artists live here.
Mr. N. L. Lepke, No. 4 A Unter den
Linden, has generally on exhibition paint-
ings by Ludwig Knaus. Andreas and Os-
wald Aehenbach. Meyer von Bremen, Ed.
Meyerheim. Ch. Hoguet, Carl Graeb, W.
Am'berg, Carl Becker. W. Kiefstahl. C. F.
Lessing. B. Vautier. Ed. Hildebrandt, F.
Kraus. and of all the best German, French,
Dutch, and Belgian painters. This exhi-
bition is recommended to strangers as the
most interesting in the town.
The gold and silver manufactures of
Berlin are unsurpassed. In the manu-
facture of carrnl furniture and fancy
articles, among which are wrir'ng - desks,
easy - chairs, card - cases, portfolios, clock-
BMM, wardrobes, sideboards, etc. Berlin
571
BERLIN.
[THE EMPIRE OF GERMANY.]
BERMN".
also excels, and in. no other city in Europe
are these articles carved finer or sold cheap-
er.
Of the Embroidery Manufactories, the
greatest is B. Somerfeld's, No. 42 Leip-
zig.'i-strassu, who keeps the principal store-
house of finished and unfinished embroid-
eries.
Grand Restaurant Strub. This first-class
and elegant restaurant is situated at No.
33 Unter den Linden, and enjoys the high-
est reputation among the grand monde of
Berlin.
A rich assortment of statues, groups of
figures, fountains, etc., is kept at the
Foundry for Objects of Art, A. Castner
(late M. Geiss), No. 25 Chausseestrasse.
Among the monumental productions of
this establishment, the first of its kind,
may be mentioned the colossal group of
the Amazon, after Kiss, which was pur-
chased \>y the United States government
for Washington.
Important to English and A merican Trav-
elers on the Continent. Charles Riesel, 42
Jerusalemstrasse, Berlin, S.W., Tourist Of-
fice (Cook's style). General information.
Reduced-price tickets for the most impor-
tant places in Europe : Brussels, Paris,
London, St. Petersburg, Bonn, Naples, Co-
penhagen, and for New York, Sidney. Mel-
bourne, etc. Best guide-books and time
tables. Mr. Riesel's Lexicon for Travelers.
Money changer. Sale of hotel coupons:
breakfast, dinner, and apartments, 8 frs.
per day. Arrangements for traveling par-
ties. Special trains to the most inter-
esting places on the Continent. Office
of Publicity. Chief Office, 42 Jerusalem-
strasse ; Branch Office, Central Hotel,
Friedrichstrasse, and Georgenstrasse.
Berlin to Paris (sleeping-car from Co-
logne), see Route 145. Berlin to Frunk-
fort-on-the-Mnin, fin Halle ; time, 11 h.
(sleeping-car, 8 marks, 8 P.M.) ; fare, 48
marks 90 pf. ; via Nordhausen ; time, 11
h. ; fare, 48 marks 90 pf. (sleeping-car, at
7.30 P.M., 8 marks).
Berlin to Munich; time, 17 h. (sleeping-
572
car, 2.30 P.M., 12 marks); fare, Co marks
70 pf. ; to Vanovie, 17^ h. (sleeping-car,
11.15 P.M.); fare, C marks; to Vienna
(sleeping-car, rin Dresden, 5.17 P.M.), 15 h.
12 in. ; 71 marks (see Route 186).
Environs of Berlin. The Brandenburg
Gate, erected in 1792 at a cost of $375,000.
This structure was built to imitate the
Propylaeum at Athens. It is surmounted
by a car of victory, by Schadotr, which
was carried to Paris in 1806 by Napoleon
I., but recovered by the Prussians when
Paris was captured by the allies in 1814.
Passing through this gate, which is the
terminus of Berlin's principal street,! 'liter
den Linden, the Thiergarten is entered.
This artificial park is about two miles long
by one wide, and is filled with magnificent
trees, small lakes, and canals, and is inter-
spersed with fine shrubberies ; the most
beautiful part of the park is the most dis-
tant from the city. It is separated into two
parts by a wide avenue ; here all the world
of Berlin may be seen in fine weather.
The lakes and canals are much used in
winter by skaters. Kroll's Winterg-irten
is situated here, also the places of amuse-
ment called the Tentes; the chateau of
Belleruf, more distant. At the extremity
of the park are situated the Zoological
Gardens, about twenty minutes' drive from
the Brandenburg Gate ; it contains the
Menagerie formerly at Potsdam, and is
much frequented in the afternoons by the
Berliners. Concerts often take place here.
There is a good restaurant.
Near the Louisen-Insel, on the borders
of a canal, is the monument of Frederick
William ///., erected in 1849 by the in-
habitants of Berlin. The statue is by
Drake, executed in marble, placed on a
fine pedestal highly or (lamented; the reliefs
representing the blessings of peace. It
is covered in winter to protect it from the
inclemency of the weather.
The avenue which divides the Thier-
:SIONS.
[THE EMPIRE OF GERMANY.]
POTSDAM.
half an
Abo
I'otxla
inml.i
conser
scale.
garten into two parts leads directly to Clinr-
lottenburg. An American tramway leaves
the Kupfergraben (behind the Arsenal j
every 10 minute's for that town. Time,
half an hour: faiv. .
About one and a half miles from the
Gate arc situated the Botanical
-. which well deserve a visit. Its
conservatories arc on a most extensive
scale, containing some twenty thousand
different plants. Some of the palms and
cactuses are enormous.
Berlin can now boast of a winter-garden
superior to almost any thing of the kind in
Europe. It is called the Flora, and is
situated at the extremity of the city, in
Louisenplatz.
Outside the Konigsthor is situated the
park of Friedrickihain-, and contiguous to
I it is a very pretty cemetery.
r the Halle Gate, in the Belle Alli-
ance Platz, rises the granite monument,
surmounted !>ya figure of Victor}', erected
by Ranch in l*4o to commemorate a peace
which had lasted twenty-live years.
Half a mile beyond the Halle Gate
stands the Volks-Denkmal (People's Monu-
ment). It consists of a Gothic cross, erect-
ed on a sand-hill, sixty-four feet high.
It was designed by Schiitkd. and thf statues
in the niches are by Rauch and TtC'-k. It
was erected in 1S21 by Frederick William
III., in memory of Prussia's recovered in-
dependence from the French.
Excursions in the riciniti/ of Berlin:
1st. The most important, and which
should on no account be omitted, is that to
Potsdam, the Versailles of Berlin.
2d. To rhaiintti-iibury. to visit the monu-
ment of the late King and Queen of Prus-
sia.
:!d. Tegel. the late residence of William
and Alexander von Humboldt. This last
can only be made by carriage, and is nine
and a half miles from the city. The cha-
teau was built by Schinkel in 1822, in the
style of a Roman villa, and contains nu-
merous works of art. In the park are the
tom!)> of William (1>3,V) and Alexander
They consist of a granite column
with a copy of Hope by Tlwriraldsen.
Kxcitrsion to Ch-irlotteitburg to see the
palace built by the queen of Frederick I.,
and the monuments of the late King and
Queen of Prussia. By the American
tramway or public voiture. The first
class costs, for one or two persons, 1J
marks ; for three or four persons, 2^ marks,
with pourboire. Queen Ix>uisa, who was
considered the most beautiful and amiable
prince.-s of her day, is buried here in a
small Doric temple. Her monument, that
all travelers visit, is considered the mas-
terpiece of the sculptor Rauch. Chariot-
ten burg has been rapidly increasing in
growth and beauty, and now numbers
21.210 inhabitants. It is the summer resi-
dence of many of the richer class, and the
holiday resort of the humbler ; it origi-
nally bore the name of Leitzen. In 1699,
Sophia Charlotte, queen of Frederick I.,
built the Schloss. It was erected from de-
signs by Schluter, and contains some very
fine works of art. The gardens are open
to the public, who throng here on Sundays,
when the weather is fine, for the purpose
of seeing the carp fed, and feeding them.
These are of great age and size, and are
very numerous in the Spree, which winds
through the gardens. When the bell rings
they collect in shoals, and rush forward to
be fed.
Passing through the Orangerie, and
along the alley of pine-trees, in about ten
minutes the monument of the beautiful
I.oiii-e, queen of Prussia, and her husband
is readied. The temple is in the Doric
style of architecture, and was designed by
Sc/t i nktl at the request of Frederick William
III., husband of Louise. The figure of
the queen is a masterpiece of Rauch ; it
reposes on a marble sarcophagus, the hands
folded on the breast. The figure of her
husband, buried thirty years later (1840),
is also by Rauch, and lies by the side of
his queen. At the feet of the group is the
heart of Frederick William IV., brother of
the present emperor, inclosed in a marble
casket. He died 1861. On either side is
a white marble candelabrum ; that to the
right is by Rauch, and represents the Three
Fates ; that to the left is by Tieck, and
represents the Three Muses. The eruci.ix
is by Achtermannof Rome.
Anniversary services are performed on
the 7th of June and 19th of July.
Escursion to Potsdam. Several train?
daily, in 30 minutes : fare, first class. 21
g. ; second class, 10 g.
The fountains play, in summer, every
Sunday from 12 o'clock to dark ; on Thurs-
day, the grand fountain only. A whole
573
POTSDAM.
[THE EMPIRE OF GERMANY.]
POTSDAM.
day should be devoted to this excursion,
starting early in the morning from the
Potsdamer Bahnhof, and taking a car-
riage, on the arrival of the train, for the
whole day, as the different objects of in-
terest are not by any means contiguous.
A carriage will cost 12 marks, and some-
times more, exclusive of pourboire. Take
a valet-de-place with you by all means,
and make a bargain with your driver.
The pourboire given to the domestics who
show the palaces, etc., is usually, for one
person, H marks ; for a party, 3 marks.
The following order should be adopted for
visiting the different sights : Freundschnfts-
Tempel, Palace of Sans Souci, Windmill,
Sicilian Gardens, New Palace, Temple of
Friendship, Charlottenhnf, Japanese House,
Neptune's Grotto, Pftngstberg, Marble Palace,
Brauhausberg, and the Castle of Babelsberg.
The town contains 43,784 inhabitants, with
a garrison of 7000 men. It is a great sta-
tion for the Prussian army, and is alto-
gether military in its aspect. It is beau-
tifully situated on the River Havel, sur-
rounded by groves and rivulets, streams
and forests, meadows and gardens, and
every thing to make a landscape lovely,
mountains alone excepted. The archi-
tecture of the houses is admirable. There
are five royal residences in and about
it the palace of Sans Souci, the Roy-
al Palace, the New Palace, the Marble
Palace, and Babelsberg. The town was
founded by the Great Elector of Branden-
burg, but owes its splendor principally to
Frederick the Great. The principal hotels
arc the Einsiedler and Deutsches Haus.
To the south of the long bridge over
which the visitor passes in coming from
the station to the town is the Lustgarten,
inclosed by a double colonnade. Near the
grand basin are fourteen busts of impor-
tant personages in the war of independ-
ence ; they are principally by Rauch.
The military band plays here on Sundays
at 11 o'clock. Contiguous is the old pal-
ace, or Residenz, erected toward the close
of the 17th century. It contains nothing
of importance except the furniture used by
Frederick the Great, the covering of which
was nearly all torn off by the claws of his
dogs ; his writing-table, covered with ink ;
his library tilled with French books ; music
composed by himself, etc. The apart-
ments are kept nearly in the same manner
574
' as when he was alive. Adjoining his bed-
room there is a small cabinet where he
used to dine alone, or with a friend, with-
out any attendance, every thing coming
through the floor in a dumb-waiter, he
placing the dishes on the table himself.
The apartments of Frederick William III..
with some pictures, standards, etc., also
those of his queen, Louise, remain intact,
as do those of Frederick William IV.,
which contain some modern pictures. The
Tabacks-Colleyium, or smoking-club, where
i Frederick's father used to hold his boister-
ous meetings and deliver his smoking lect-
ures, is bordering on the basin of the lake.
Opposite the Royal Palace is the Xicholai-
kirche, built by Sch'nkcl and Persius, sur-
mounted by a splendid dome, 75 feet in di-
ameter, by Staler and Prufer. The front
! of the portico is ornamented with a bass-
: relief of li the Sermon on the Mount, 7 ' by
j Kiss. The interior is magnificently dec-
orated. To obtain admission address the
custodian at the side of the church. In
j the Garnisonskirchf, in the town, lie the
remains of Frederick the Great. They are
contained in a plain sarcophagus, and lie
above the ground. He requested to be
buried with his favorite dogs and war-
horse in the garden of Sans Souci, but his
request was not complied with. Napoleon
I. carried off his sword, which formerly
laid upon the top of his coffin. The pulpit
and walls are adorned with French stand-
ards and eagles, also with others captured
in the war of 1870-71. The vault con-
tains the marble sarcophagus of William I.,
father to Frederick the Great. There are
also numerous Austrian flags captured in
the war of 1866. Behind the pulpit are
the uniforms the three allied monarchs
wore during the wars of 1813-14-15.
Around the walls are tablets with the
names of the brave soldiers who distin-
guished themselves during the war of in-
dependence.
Wilhelmsplatz is decorated with the bron ze
statue of Frederick William III., by Kiss,
with the inscription " To the Father of his
| Country." William was born in Potsdam.
The Hotel de Ville is built on the model
| of that of Amsterdam, and is surmounted
with an immense Atlas carrying the globe.
By the side of this latter is the Palace
Barberini, with large halls of reunion for
the artistic and scientific societies.
[THE EMPIRE OF GERMANY.]
POTSDAM.
Sans Souci was built by Frederick the
Great on heights planted with vines, olives,
and orange-trees. It is a series of low
and unpretending buildings, but has a tine
colonnade. The principal objects of in-
terest are the apartments in which the
Great Frederick died, it being the perma-
nent and almost exclusive residence of
that prince. They contain the clock he
used to wind up with his own hand, and
which stopped just at the moment he died,
twenty minutes past two. His portrait by
Feme is the only one for which he sat.
At the ends of the terrace are the graves
of his horse and dogs.
The Picture-Gallery contains some fine
pictures, the most celebrated being a
Christ's Head, by Raphael, for which
Frederick the Great paid 30,000 ducats.
Voltaire's apartment is shown close to that
of his royal host, its walls are covered with
caricatures illustrating the French philoso-
pher's habits and character.
Contiguous to Sans Souci stands the fa-
mous historical windmill. Frederick the
Great desired to purchase it, that he might
pull it down for the purpose of extending
his gardens in that direction ; the miller re-
fused, and the king brought a suit against
him, but was beaten in the court. He then
erected for the miller the present large mill,
as a monument of Prussian justice. Some
years since, the owner, having met with re-
verses, offered to sell the mill to the king.
who immediately settled enough on the
miller to defray his debts, saying the mill
belonged to Prussian history, and should
not be removed. In the grounds of Sans
Souci stands the villa of Charlottenhof,
built by Frederick William ; it is in imita-
tion of a Pompeian dwelling, with a bath.
fountains, statues, and bronzes, taken from
the ruins of Pompeii.
A little to the west of the palace is the
Orangeri", nearly 1000 feet long, construct-
ed in the Florentine style of architecture.
In the niches outside are some fine statues
in marble. In the vestibule there is one
of Frederick William IV., by Bldser. The
principal portion of the building is a long
saloon on the ground floor, in which ;iro
contained !."> copies of Raphaeft pictures.
There is a ' Salle de Malachite " which is
very beautiful, and contains, with other
rooms, some fine pieces of sculpture.
Among which are the Head of an Adonis,
POTSDAM.
by Thorwaldsen ; an Amour and Psyche, by
Hasenpflurj ; Hebe and the Eagle, by Voss,
etc. There are also some fine views in
the Holy Land, by }ftld;liraniJt, and por-
traits of celebrated Prussians, by Begas.
On the terrace is a reproduction of the
Farnese Bull.
At the entrance into the park of Sans
Souci is situated the Friedenskirche (Church
of Peace), erected from designs of Per-
sius. It is a model of St. Clement's
Church at Rome, and has a detached tower
130 feet high. It contains, among other
objects of interest, Ranch's last work, Mo-
ses, supported by Aaron and Hur, praying
for victory over the Amalekites. Opposite
to which are a Pieta, by Rietschel ; an an-
cient Mosaic from the church of St. Cypri-
an, at Murano; and a reproduction of the
Resurrection of Christ, by Thorwaldsen.
Near the last church (in the park) is
situated the Grand Fountain, which throws
a stream of water 115 feet high, and gen-
| erally plays during the summer on Sun-
! days and Thursdays. It is surrounded by
12 statues, among which is a Venus, by
Pigalle. To the south is a reproduction
! of the celebrated statue of Frederick the
Great, in Carrara marble. It is the work
of an Italian artist. The porphyry bust
situated at the north of the fountain is
that of Paolo Giordano, duke of Bracciano :
it was purchased by Frederick the Great at
a cost of 815,000.
An avenue over one mile in length in-
tersects the park of Sans Souci. and leads
to the Obelisk ; in the opposite direction is
the Welnbergs-Thor, erected to commemo-
rate the safe return of the Prince of Prussia
from the campaign against the Baden in-
surgents.
To the north of the celebrated windmill
is Ruinenberg, with artificial ruins which
conceal the fountains, and to the west are
the Sicilian Gardens, the Chinese Tower,
and the Btlviderc which commands a pan-
orama of the surrounding country the
(irutto ofXeptune, and the temple " des An-
tiques."
About two and a half miles from Potsdam
stands the .Vt-' PaJnce. erected by Frederick
the Great in 1 70S, after the Seven -years'
War. at an enormous expense, to show his
; enemies the extent of his finances : some of
j the apartments are beyond description in
the profusion and richness of the marble
575
POTSDAM.
[THE EMPIRE OF GERMANY.] BERLIN TO PARIS.
used ; one room is entirely lined with shells
and minerals stuck on the walls to repre-
sent a grotto. There are some very good
paintings here. There are also a theatre
capable of containing GOO persons, a grand
ball-room, and a marlile saloon. In a small
library, for Frederick's private use, there
is a copy of the king's own works, with
notes and criticisms in the handwriting of
Voltaire. The palace is now used as the
summer residence of the prince imperial.
Facing the palace is an immense building
called the Communs, used as a barrack for
trained infantry : a draft is made every [
year from each Prussian regiment to prac- :
tice uniformit}- in the regulation and drill.
In a small temple near the palace is a beau-
tiful statue of Louisa, queen of Prussia, by :
Rauch ; it is of life-size, and represents her
asleep.
About one mile southeast of the New
Palace stands the Italian villa of Charlnt-
tenhnf, reconstructed by Schinkel in 1826.
In the vestibule is a bust of Schinkel by
Rauch ; in the dining-room is a Ganymede
by Wrtdow and a David by Wolff. Two
of the rooms were set apart for the use of
Alexander von Humboldt, who was a na-
tive of Potsdam. In the gardens there is a
Pompeian bath beautifully decorated with
frescoes, with numerous fountains and stat-
ues, and with bronzes brought from Pom-
peii and Herculaneum.
About two miles' drive from Potsdam is
one of the prettiest spots in Prussia, or per-
haps in Germany Babelsberg, the coun-
try residence of the present empsror when
Prince Regent of Prussia. It is a modern
castle designed by Schinkel. The house
is beautifully furnished, and the grounds
laid out with exquisite taste. It contains
portraits of the royal family of England,
and some fine specimens of the princess
imperial's pencil, with numerous pictures
by Hildebramlt. Mover von Bremen, and
other modern artists. Visitors arc freely ad-
mitted. The housekeeper expects a fee of
a franc from each person. You arc obliged
to register your name in the visitors' book
before you leave.
About fifteen minutes' drive from Babels-
berg is the Marmor- Palais or Marble Pal-
ace, commenced by Frederick William II.
in 1786, and finished by Frederick William
IV. It is beautifully situated on a small
lake called the Heiligen-See, and filled with
57G
works of art, mostly by modern artists ;
among the number (in the colonnade) are
landscapes by Lompeck, with views of
the principal cities of Kliineland, Aix-la-
Chapclle, Spires, Troves. Mctz, Cologne,
Urachenfels, etc. : on the Danube, Vienna,
Biula-Pesth, etc. In the interior are nu-
merous Egyptian and Greek landscapes,
with modern sculpture by Canova, Thor-
waldsen, Drake, etc., and portraits by Be-
gus of eminent writers and composers,
etc., such as Humboldt, Meyerbeer. Men-
delssohn, Rauch, Schinkel, etc. The kitch-
en, which is some distance from the palace,
is built to resemble a temple, and is con-
nected with the main building by a sub-
terranean passage.
The Pjinfi.-'tlii r<j. which rises in the vicin-
ity of the Marble Palace, is ornamented
with towers, from which a most extensive
view can lie had of the surroundings, with
Berlin, Brandenburg, etc., in the distance.
Near Glicnicke, where there is a good
restaurant, is a chateau, the property of
Prince Frederick Charles. It is surround-
ed by a park and garden. In the grounds
is a hunting -lodge of the Great Elector,
which has been restored by Prince Charles.
ROUTE No. 145.
Berlin to Paris, or vice versa (mail
route), fin Mcndal. Hanoi-fr, Min'len, Dus-
stldorf. Cologne, and Aix-la-Chapelle. Time,
21 h. 40 m. (not including stoppage at Co-
logne; to Cologne, express. 9 h. 15 m.).
Fare, first class, 100 marks 80 pf. ; second
class in Germany and first in France
(Mixtc), 83 marks' pf. From Berlin to
Cologne, first class, 51! marks 30 pf. ; sec-
ond class. 39 marks CO pf. Sleeping car
(Cologne-Paris-, by 10.30 P.M.. or 8 P.M.
from Paris. 15 frs. ; (Cologne-Berlin), 8
P.M. or 10 P.M. from Berlin, 8 marks.
In 1 h. 44 in. (express) the train reaches
Stendal junction, where a line branches off
for Belgium and Holland, via Bremen and
Xordhausen. another to Hamburg via Wit-
tenberg, and another to Magdeburg.
HlMJESHEIM.
[THE EMPIRE OF GERMANY. !
HAXOVBK.
la! (hotels, Schwan and Adler) is an j
ancient city, formerly the capital of the
AUmarkt, resilience of the Margraves of
Brandenburg. It contains two interesting
old churches of the 15th century, the <'ath<-
tlrnl and .V/. .l/r>/V Church. The lloland's
Column, and an old palace of Henry the '
Fowler (now an inn), and two old irate-
ire the- only objects worthy of not; 1 .
Stendal was the birthplace of the archseol-
o.'i.-f \\'inckelniann. who was innrdered at
Tric-t:- in 17'J*. A statue has been erect-
ed to him.
Diligences leave three times a day for
T'iritfi rmi'tit'lf, situated on the banks of the
\en miles distant. It contains 4000
inhabitants, and has a most interesting
Rathhans.
Pas.-ing Obiffelde station and Lherte,
where branch lines run to Hambiu
Cil'i'. ami In Hl!d- ah<:im on the south.
[From Lherte to Ilildesheim. time, 40
minutes : fare. lir>t class. -J marks ; sec- j
ond class, 1^ marks.
f/ildfshtim is an old city of 21,000 in-
habitants. Ilijtel d'Angleterre. It was the
capital of an ancient Episcopal See founded
in *!">, and remained a free city until 1803.
It po-sesses many curious old houses with
fine wood carvings. The principal object
of attraction is the Dom or Cathedral, a
fine old specimen of the Romanesque style,
erected between 10JO and 1150. Its inte-
rior style was completely disfigured in re-
pairing it in the l*th century. Notice at
the entrance to the choir a colored ala-
baster pillar called the Irm< nsaulf ; it is
said to have l-een an idol of the Saxons,
and was brought from Corvey. The bronze
bronze font, and gilt shrine are all
deserving particular attention.
St. Michael's Church, erected at the com-
encement of the llth century, has a fine
; the walls of the choir are orna-
mented with figures of the apostle?; the
paintings on the ceilings date from the
iL'th century.
St. Martin's Church has been trans-
formed into a museum, and posse-
good collection of objects of the Middle
It wa* near Ilildesheim that a tine col-
lection of Roman plate was found (de-
scribed in the Berlin Museum)].
nn
id
HANOVER.
The kingdom of Hanover, now a prov-
ince of Prussia, occupies a large part of
North western Germany. Its northern
boundary is the North Sea; on the south
it is bounded by the Prussian dominions;
on the east by Prussia and the course
of the River Elbe, which divides it from
Mecklenburg and Holstein ; and on the
west by Holland. A small detached por-
tion of Hanover is separated from the rest
of the kingdom by the little territory of
Brunswick. In the detached part of Han-
over, to the southeast, is the metalliferous
group of the Hart/. Mountains ; their high-
est summit, the Brocken, is famous for its
spectral appearances a gigantic reproduc-
tion of the figures of the spectator and of
surrounding objects upon the white veil of
mist which envelops the mountain at ear-
ly dawn.
The late reigning family derived its ori-
gin from the union of the Marquis d'Este,
in the eleventh century, with a wealthy
princess of Bavaria, the issue of which
received the surname of Guelph from
his maternal ancestors, and inherited the
dukedom of Bavaria. Henry the Proud,
third in descent from him last mentioned,
married Gertrude, the ruling princess of
Brunswick. Their son. well known in the
history of the Crusades as Henry the Lion
(born 11-20 i, was the tirst (fUeipk Duke of
Brunswick. He married a daughter of Hen-
ry II., king of England, and from this mar-
riage both the houses of Brunswick and
Luneburg are descended. The Reformation
numbered the princes of Brunswick among
its most zealous supporters, and their snb-
Vcts, during the thirty-years' war, warmly
seconded their anti-papal efforts. Ernest of
Zell, the reigning duke, was one of the most
eloquent defenders of Luther at the Diet
of Worms. His endeavors to improve the
people, by establishing clerical and gener-
al schools, when learning was esteemed
only by the few, show him to be a man of
enlightened views. His grandson. Ern.->t
Augustus, married Sophia, granddaughter
of James I. of England (by his daughter
Elizabeth, the wife of the Elector-Palatine),
and on this marriage was founded the claim
of the elder branch of the house of Bruns-
wick to the English crown, acknowledged
577
HANOVER.
[THE EMPIRE OF GERMANY.]
HANOVER.
by Parliament in 1701. George Louis was
issue of this marriage, and became king
of England in 1714, from which time till
1837, at the death of William IV., both
England and Hanover have had the same
sovereign. The Salic law, which is in
force in Hanover, by which the crown does
not pass to the female line, then conferred
the Hanoverian crown on Ernest, duke of
Cumberland, fifth, but eldest surviving son
of George III.
In 1804 Prussia took possession of Han-
over, but ceded it in the same year to
the French, who constituted it a part of
the kingdom of Westphalia, established in
1808 to make a kingdom for Jerome Bona-
parte. At the peace of 1813, the King of
Great Britain reclaimed his rightful do-
minions, which were much enlarged by
the stipulations of the treaty of Vienna,
and formed into a kingdom, nntil absorbed
in 1866 by the King of Prussia. King
George protested against the annexation
of his territory at Vienna, in September,
1866.
Hanover, the capital of the Prussian
province of Hanover, and previous to
June, 1866, of the kingdom of the same
name, is beautifully situated in the midst i
of a plain, upon the banks of the swift-
flowing Leine, an affluent of the Weser.
A large and picturesque forest, which con
tains the Zoological Gardens and numer
ous romantic drives and walks, is situated
on the northern border, stretching its arnip
into the city, and protecting it against the
cold north wind. Population, with its sub-
urb, Linden, 140,000 ; city proper, 126,000.
Hotels: Royal Hotel, for many years a fa-
vorite resort of English and Americans.
Continental Hotel, a magnificent new house,
with lift, near the Royal Theatre. Han-
over is much resorted to by English and
Americans on account of the purity with
which the German language is spoken.
Between the station and hotel there is
a fine equestrian bronze statue of Ernest
Augustus.
The streets of the new town are
lined with handsome houses, particular-
ly George Street and Frederick Street,
opening on Waterlooplatz, which serves
578
for a parade-ground. It is adorned with
a handsome monumental rotunda of Leib-
nitz, the philosopher and mathematician.
On the south side of the square stands
the Waterloo column, 156 feet high, sur-
mounted by a figure of Victory, sacred
to the memory of the Hanoverians who
fell in the. battle of Waterloo. On the
north side of the square stands a statue
of General Alten, commander of the Han-
overian legion in Spain. The principal
public buildings are the royal palace, or
Schloss, of very good exterior, and beauti-
fully fitted up within. Visible every day
from 9 to 5. The Rittersaal, or Knights'
Hall, is splendidly furnished, and contains
some very fine portraits. Among the best
are Napoleon, Wellington, George I., II.,
III., and IV. of England. The Opera-house
is a very handsome building; also the Mint,
Arsenal, and viceroy's palace. Opposite
the theatre is the Polytechnic School, which
contains nearly 300 pupils. The royal sta-
bles, where the well-known breed of black
and cream-colored Hanoverian horses are
kept, are well worth a visit. This is the
same stock that draws the state carriage
of the Queen of England. The Schloss-
kirche is one of the handsomest churches
in the city; it contains the remains of the
Electress Sophia and her son, George I.,
king of England. In the picture-gallery
of Baurath Hausman there are some very
fine pictures.
On the Place George is erected a colos-
sal statue of Schiller, by Engelhard.
The Museum is situated No. 2 Sophien-
strasse. It is open even' day except Fri-
days (fee, half mark) from 11 to 2 ; Wed-
nesdays, 2 to 4 ; on Sundays, entrance free.
The Museum comprises a gallery of paint-
ings and sculptures, an historical collection,
and a cabinet of natural history. It also
contains a reproduction of the J/ildesheim
Plate, by Christolfe, now in the Berlin
Museum.
The collection of pictures formerly in the
chateau of George V. is now to be seen at
No. 13 Landschaftsstrasse, every day. A
small fee is expected. The guardian lives
in a court to the right. On the first floor
there are a few good modern pictures ; on
the second floor are the ancient masters,
specimens of Van Dj'ck, Teniers, Paul Ve-
ronese, Rembrandt, Rubens, Caraeci, etc.
A visit should be paid to the Old Tenon
HANOVER.
to sec the old Hotel de Ville, erected about
the middle of the 15th century. In front
of tliis latter is the Market Church of near-
ly a century curlier date; restored in 1855.
The Royal Theatre is one of the largest
in German}-, and contains the celebrated
curtain painted by liumslerg.
Tlu! Royal Library is open every day,
with the exception of Wednesdays and
Saturdays, from 12 to 1, and on those
days from 12 to 2 ; it contains 200,000
vols. uirl :><MM) MSS., many of which are
remarkable.
The Aquarium, established in 186(5, has
twenty-two basins of water, lighted from
aliovo. The collection is very good; en-
trance, half mark.
The Odeon and Tivoli music-gardens are
two of the best establishments of the kind
in Europe.
There is also a permanent Indus/rial Ex-
hibition open every day. entrance 2 g.
Passing through the (jeor yen-Park along
the Htrrfi,h-in*n A life, a beautiful avenue
of lime-trees, the palace of Herrenhausen
is reached. This was the favorite resi-
dence of George I., II., and V. The build-
ing is rather unpretentious; the gardens,
which cover some 120 acres, arc laid out in
the, French style, and contain a small the-
atre, fountains, etc. There is .1 building
adjoining the palace called GaUeneffebdude,
whi''h contains a collection of ancient and
modern sculptures. Near this are the
iiranijcrirs and Bfrgijaricn, rich in flowers.
In the former dwelling of the director, a
Museum af A ntiqnitii's has been established,
called the Welfen Museum ; open Mondays.
Wednesdays, and Saturdays.
At the bottom of the garden is the Roy-
al Mausoleum of Ernest Augustus and his
queen. The statues are in Carrara mar-
bio, by Rnuch ; they arc not shown.
The astronomer Herschel was a native
of Hanover, and was originally a musician
in the royal band.
To the northeast of Hanover lies the fine
forest of Eilenrode, at the extremity of
which are the Zoological Gardens. Leib-
nitz, the philosopher, spent the greater part
<>f his life in Hanover. His house and the
room where he died are to be seen.
There are numerous excursions in the
vicinity of Hanover, which will be pointed
out by the hotel proprietor if making a
lengthened stay.
[THE EMPIRE OF GERMANY. ]
MlNDEJJ.
/'mm Umiorer to Hamburg. Time, 3 h.
45 m.; fare, first class, 17i marks; second
class, 13 marks 10 pf.
from Hanover to Cologne. Time, 5 h.
15 m. ; fare, first class, 30 marks 30 pf. ;
second class, 22 marks 50 pf.
From li\inover to Bremen. Time, 3 h.
8 m. ; fare, first class, 10 marks 20 pf. ;
second class, 7 marks 60 pf.
From Hanover to Berlin, via Magde-
burg and Brunswick. Time, 4 h. 10 m. ;
fare, first class, 23 marks 20 pf. ; second
class, 17 marks 20 pf.
from Hanover to Mindm. Time, 1 h.
12 m. ; fare, first class, 5 marks 2 g. ; sec-
ond class, 3 marks 9 g,
In twelve minutes from Hanover the
station of Buckeburg is passed. This is
the principal town of the small principal-
ity of Schaumburg-Lippe. Hotel, Deut-
sches Haus. The town contains 4500 in-
habitants ; but there is nothing of interest
to see except the palace gardens of the
prince. The palace is any thing but mag-
nificent. In one hour
Minden, a strongly fortified town on the
River Weser, is reached: it contains 17,000
inhabitants. Hotels, Eisenbahn-Gasthof
and Twietmeyer. The new barracks and
cathedral are its principal buildings. The
last named is a Gothic structure, dating
from the 13th century. The six windows
in the aisle are noted for their beautiful
tracery. Under the altar-piece, at the
southern entrance, is a painting by All?-
grever of the meeting of the Saxon duke
Witikind with Charlemagne. The last
has some very pretty windows. The for-
tifications were blown up by Frederick
the Great at the end of the Seven-years'
War, but have since been rebuilt. A lit-
tle north of the town lies the field where
the battle of Minden was fought in 1759,
where Prince Ferdinand of Brunswick de-
feated the French. The Weser is here
crossed by a fine stone bridge 600 fee<i
long, one of the arches of which was'
blown up by the French in 1813. There
is nothing to be seen here of sufficient im-
portance to detain the traveler. There are
steamers on the Weser which ply between
Minden and Bremen.
Porta Station. The River Weser here
through a deep gap. On one of tin-
banks formerly stood a castle of the Saxon
Witikind, now replaced by a stone tower.
579
REHMES.
[THE EMPIRE OF GERMANY.]
OBERHAUSEN.
Near it are the ruins of an ancient chapel
in which it is said Charlemagne baptized
Witikind.
Returns. This place is noted for its salt-
works belonging to the Prussian govern-
ment. The artesian well from \vhich the
brine is obtained has been bored to the
depth of 742 yards, nearly half a mile.
Four thousand persons are employed.
Brine baths have been established in the
vicinity (Bad Oeynhattsen), which are con-
sidered efficacious in cases of gout and
rheumatism. Hotels, Vogler and Victoria.
The line now passes iJJhne junction,
whence a line branches oft' to Osnabriick,
Rheine, and Arnhem; but if the traveler
is intending to visit Holland, the most ex-
peditious route is to continue on to the
Oberhausen junction.
Herford, the second town in the county
of Ravensberg, contains 11,000 inhabitants.
Principal hotel, Stadt Berlin. The Miin-
sterkirche, a large Romanesque church, was
formerly attached to the nunnery founded
by the Saxon Witikind, and dates from
the 10th century. It contains the sar-
cophagus of Witikind, wbo was eventual-
ly compelled to submit to Charlemagne,
and be baptized by him.
Bielefeld station is reached in twenty-
five minutes. This town, which contains
some 19,000 inhabitants, is the central sta-
tion for the Westphalian linen trade, and
most of its inhabitants are occupied in that
traffic. Hotel, Drei Kronen. On the hill
above the town rises the old castle of <Spo-
renbery, used for the last century as a
prison.
To the south of BracLiccde station lies
the Teutoburgian forest, on the southern
slopes of which the defeat and death of the
Roman general Varus by Arminius, chief
of the Cherusci, took place.
Gi/firsloh. Hotel, Jteiters. This town
is noted for being the principal depot for
Westphalian hams, German sausages, and
the famous "Pumpernickel," or brown
bread of Westphalia. This bread is eaten
by all classes of people, and is considered a
delicacy by many ; the coarser kind is oft-
en given to horses. It is made of bran, or
the unsifted rye flour. The name is said
to be a corruption of the French words
"bon pour Nickel," a French soldier of
Napoleon's army having pronounced it too
bad for himself, butgood for his horse Nickel.
580
Ilamm junction is the capital of the
county of Mark, and contains 16,000 in-
habitants. It is the junction of lines to
Minister and Emden in the north, and
Paderborn and Cassel to the south and
east.
Dortmund, two hours from Minden, is
the junction of numerous small local lines
of railway, and is the largest and most im-
portant town in Westphalia. It contains
45,000 inhabitants. Hotels, IVencker-Pax-
mann and JJdlevtie. This was once an im-
perial town, and member of the Hanseatic
League. The Church of St. ReinhM has
; some line painted windows. Some of them
: represent the imperial eagle in Westpha-
lian colors green, black, and white. The
altar is decorated with a carved crucifixion
and the twelve apostles.
The Marienkirche is an elegant and lofty
church in the Gothic and Romanesque
style. It contains two fine altar-pieces.
In the Middle Ayes Dortmund was a
place of great celebrity, being the seat of
the supreme court of the Westphalian se-
cret society called the Vehmgericht, which
for six centuries extended its sway over
the whole of Germany and numbered 100,-
000 members, and here the Emperor iSigis-
mund himself was initiated in the Konigs-
hof under the linden-trees. The members
were bound by the most fearful oaths to
keep secret the proceedings of the court
and to execute the decrees of the tribunal.
The last session of the society was held in
1803. One of the lime-trees in the Konigs-
hof still exists and is said to be over four
hundred years old.
Oberhausen junction, a station of great
bustle and excitement, a continual chang-
ing of carriages and passing of trains.
Travelers from France or the Rhine on the
route to Holland change cars, also those
coming from Berlin, Hanover, etc., for Hol-
land. There is also a direct line from
Oberhausen to Aix-la-Chapelle passing by
Cologne.
From Oberhausen to A msterdam. Time,
4 h. 20 m. ; fare, first class, 15 marks 6 g. ,
second class, 12 marks 2 g.
From Oberhausen to Rotterdam. Time,
4 h. ; fare, first class, 17 marks 3 g. ; sec-
ond class, 13 marks G g.
[From Oberhausen to Emmerich, the last
Prussian town on the Holland frontier.
Time, 1 h. 5 m.
WESEL.
[THE EMPIRE OF GERMANY.]
DLSSELDORF.
Thirty minutes from Oberhausen (on the
line to Holland) is
II".-.'. :i fortress of the first class, situ-
ated at the junction of the Lippe with the
Kiiin . It contains 17,000 inhabitants.
Hotel, Dornbus* h. The Gothic Hitthhaiis,
which dates from the 14th century, is a
very interesting building, lately restored.
The church of SI. Wil'<bro<J. which dates
from the 12th century, lias been restored,
and is iruch injured by the restoration.
On an elevated position near the station
a monument has been erected to the eleven
Prussian officers who were shot by Napo-
leon I. for having t iken part in the revolt
of Major Schill at Stralsund.
Opposite Wesel is the tete-du-pont, Fort
E'ui-ker, formerly called Fort Napoleon.
Thirty minutes from Wesel is situated
Emmerich, a frontier Prussian town con-
taining 7750 inhabitants. It has a large
garrison, and bairgaire is examined coming
from Holland (leave your small b:i_
in the carriages, they will be perfectly
safe). The //.'/>-/ Ilni/ul, near the station,
is very good. There is nothing of interest
to detain the traveler.
For the remainder of this route to Rot-
terdam and Amsterdam, see Route 144,
Vol. I.]
Fifteen minutes from Oberhausen on the
route to Cologne and
Duisburffis reached. This is a manufact-
uring town of 31,000 inhabitants ; the cen-
tre of a most important coal district, and
rapidly improving in wealth and population.
A short branrli railway leads to the im-
portant manufacturing town of
, noted especially for the celebrated
Kmpp Steel Foundry. It contains 51,500
inhabitants, and was a free city down to
15ti:.i, when it was placed under the protec-
tion of an abbess.
The Miinsterkircke, which dates from the
10th century, was founded by the Emperor
Otho III. Its cloisters and altar-piece
were restored in 1850. It contains a most
curious old candelabrum presented to the
church in 098 by the Abbess Alhaidis,
daughter of Otho II.. and a M.S. of the
Gospels executed in 1060.
The Sled Factory of Hfrr Krupp is the
largest in the world, covering ne.irly 5u(t
acres, and occupying 7000 men ; -2 it) steam-
engines are continually running, employing
a force of 8500 horses. There are 50 steam-
hammers and 240 furnaces, using annually
78,000 tons of coal.
The steel guns of Krupp were first used
by the Viceroy of Egypt, and by the Ger-
mans during the last war with France.
Strangers are not admitted to see the works.
Dusseldorf. one of the prettiest and best-
built cities of the Rhenish provinces, is
pleasantly situated on the right bank of the
Rhine at the junction of the river Diissel.
from which it takes its name. (The Rhine
is here crossed by a bridge of boats.) It
contains 69,500 inhabitants. Principal ho-
tel, Breidenbnchcr ; much enlarged in 1875,
and one of the best in Germany ; admira-
bly conducted by Herr Mann. Dussel-
dorf was the capital of the duchy of Berg
until the commencement of the 18th cen-
tury : for one hundred years more, of the
Princes Palatine ; when they removed to
Mannheim, and afterward to Munich. Un-
til the peace of Luneville, Dusseldorf was a
fortitieu iown. some remains of the defenses
being still visible ; but at the present time
it is surrounded by gardens and pleasant
walks. The Hofgarten, in which is situ-
ated the residence of the Prince Hohen-
zollern, cousin to the Emperor William,
abounds with beautifully shaded walks.
It extends from the Grand Allee down to
the Rhine, and is the place of general re-
sort for the inhabitants of this famed little
city, which contains at present nothing
worthy of notice save the school of its liv-
ing artists (and a very popular school it is
among American art-lovers). They for-
merly occupied the palace near the Rhine
built by the Elector John William, whose
bronze equestrian statue stands in the
market-place. The palace was partially
destroyed by fire in 1872, since which time
the collection is in the Tonhalle in Scha-
dowstrasse. The main portion of the edi-
fice was destroyed by the bombardment of
the French in 1794. It was here, up to
1805, the famous collection of pictures
now of world-wide celebrity, and known as
the Munich Gallery was to be seen. All
were at that time removed save one large
painting of inferior quality, '-The Ascen-
sion of the Virgin,'' said to be, by Rubens,
which was left behind.
There is a most remarkable collection of
drawings by tin- old masters nearly 15,000
in number, including several by Raphael,
A. Montagua, (itiido, Romano, Domeni-
681
DfSSELDORF.
[THE EMPIRE OF GERMANY.]
COLOGNE.
chino, Michael Angel o, Titian, etc., etc. ;
also about 380 water- color copies of the
most remarkable paintings of the Italian
school from the fourth century, by Rantoul.
Below this gallerv is the public library.
The modern school of Diisseldorf artists,
which has, most curiously, risen up since
the removal of the old picture - gallery,
was only originated in 1828, under the
direction of the great Cornelius (a native
of the town), in whose studio most of the
distinguished artists of this school first dis-
played their now acknowledged talents.
The artists in 1860 purchased the celebra-
ted residence of the poet Jacoby, and there
established their club, known as the " Mal-
kasten " (Painters' box). Strangers can
easily procure admission thereto by intro-
duction of any artist, and then can have
the proud privilege of roaming through the
gardens where Goethe, Schiller, Lessing
(the poet), and all the most celebrated men
of their time were wont to congregate.
The Hofkirche contains some monu-
ments of former princes and some modern
pictures by Dusseldorf artists.
Diisseldorf is the residence of up-
ward of 200 artists, who mostly exhibit
iheir works at the general and perma-
nent exhibition of Mr. Schulte. This es-
tablishment has on exhibition and for
sale not only paintings by all eminent
artists of the Dusseldorf school, such as
Andreas and Oswald Achenbach, Knauss,
Yautier. Defregger, Diicker, Preyer. Oeder,
Meyer von Bremen. Rotta, Fritz Aug. Kaul-
bach, von Bachmann, Kiesel, Karl Lohn
Kowalski, and others, but also works of
other German and foreign schools.
There is an English Church service on
Sundays at the German Protestant Tem-
ple, Bergerstrasse, at 1H A.M.
A most noteworthy fact is the establish-
ment in this city of the celebrated Dr.
Mooren, the oculist, who. to aid the poor,
lias given up a most lucrative practice to
take the management of the Ophthalmic
Institution of this town. Thousands of
cases yearly are either cured or their suf-
ferings alleviated by this most worthy ben-
efactor of the human race. Parties from
582
all parts of the world flock to this young
man from China. India, Africa, America,
England nay. it would be difficult to state
from whence they come not; and though
large sums are frequently offered to secure
his services, yet the poor are the first to
meet attention at his hands.
About three miles from Dusseldorf is
Diisselthal, an old abbey converted into
an asylum for destitute children.
Cologne is situated on the left side of the
1 Rhine, and contains 144,751 inhabitants.
Its suburb, Deutz, with which it is connect-
ed by a bridge of boats, also by an iron
' bridge, contains 11,881. There is also a
garrison of 7000 men. The entire popula-
tion is therefore 148,132. Cologne is the
capital of the province, and is the third city
I of importance in the Prussian kingdom.
It is built in the form of a crescent close
by the water, and is strongly fortified, the
walls forming a circuit of nearly seven
i miles. The magnificent iron bridge, fin-
ished in 1859, is 1397 feet in length, resting
on three piers; part of it is used for the
railway, the remaining parts for ordinary
; traffic. Above the portal at the Cologne
' end is the equestrian statue of the late king
'Frederick William IV., and at the Deutz
! end another of the present emperor.
The principal hotel is the Hotel du Nord,
which is an elegant, first-class house, con-
taining over 300 rooms and saloons, near
the Cathedral and Rhine and Central sta-
tions, with large garden and every comfort.
Post, telegraph, and railway ticket-offices
in the hotel, and luggage checked to any
destination. Is under the able manage-
ment of the proprietor, Mr. Friedrich,
who is also purveyor in Rhine wines to
the Emperor of Germany and other mem-
bers of reigning families. An immense
garden - terrace, dining 300 people, and
an elegant English chapel, have been
added.
Cologne is a place oT great antiquity,
and was of considerable importance dur-
ing the Roman period. A Roman colony
was planted in it by Agrippina, daughter
of the Emperor Germanicus, who was born
CO
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20 Jesuiten Juncfa
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22 Museum
24 Fbstanvt,
25 ft*iester- Seminar
26 SalMaas
33 S* Cumber*
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36 S^e.^Sm.
37 J^ *>ann Baptists
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id-book
COLOGNE.
[THE EMPIRE OF GERMANY.]
COLOGNE.
here, and from its privileges as a Roman
colony (Colonia Agrippina) the modern
name of the city is derived. During the
Middle Ages, and for a lengthened period
of time, it was one of the most populous
and important cities in Europe. It was
also one of the chief cities of the Hauseatic
League, and had its principal depot at the
(iuildhall, London. In 1212 it became a
free town of the empire. The archbishops
continually tried to assert their authority
over the citizens ; but they were always
thwarted, and were finally compelled to re-
tire to Briihl, and afterward to Bonn. In
1370 feuds between the nobles and citizens
occasioned the expulsion of the whole body
of weavers, and also of the Protestants in
liio.x, who settled at Dusseldorf, Miilheim,
( 'refold, etc., to the great injury of the city.
In 1794 it lost its privileges as a free city
by the occupation of the French, having
become subject to that nation by the peace
of Campo Formio in 1787. In 1802 its
monasteries were seized and converted into
lay and national property bv the French.
January 14, 1814, the Russians took the
place, after which, and since, the town has
remained Prussian.
The chief glory of Cologne is its mag-
nificent Cathedral, or Minster of St. Peter,
which is one of the finest specimens of
Gothic architecture in the world. It was
commenced in the year 1248, and finished
in 1880. Its length is about 500 feet,
which is to be the height of its two towers
when finished; its width 230, and height
of choir 161. Behind the higli altar is
the chapel of the Magi, or the three kings
f Cologne. The custodian will tell you
that the silver case contains the bones of
the three wise men who came from the
East to Bethlehem to present their presents
to the infant Christ, and that the case,
which is ornamented with precious stones,
and the surrounding valuables in the chap-
el, are worth $2,000,000. These remains
were presented to the Archbishop of Co-
logne by the Emperor Barbarossa when he
VOL. II. C
captured the city of Milan, which at that
time possessed these valuable relics. The
skulls of the Magi, crowned with diamonds,
with their names written in rubies, are
shown to the curious on payment of 4
marks 5 g. for a party ; on Sundays and
festivals gratis. Near this chapel, or
shrine, repose the remains of the electors
of the house of Bavaria, and in front, be-
neath a slab without an inscription, the
heart of Maria do' Medici. Avoid obtru-
sive valets-de-place, they are of no use.
The nave and stained windows are open all
the day. During the hours of service, viz.,
7 to 8, 9 to 10, 3 to 4, the church is open, but
not shown. At other hours the beadle gives
tickets to one or five persons for 1^ marks
to visit the choir and outer galleries. The
choir consists of five aisles, and is beauti-
ful beyond description. Against the col-
umns stand fourteen statues of the Saviour,
Virgin, and twelve apostles, dating from
the 14th century. There are nine frescoes
by Steinle, and tapestry illustrating the
creed promulgated at Nice, all of which
was worked by ladies of Cologne, and
merits close inspection. The stalls were
carved in the 14th century. Among the
numerous relics in the sacristy is a bone
of St. Matthew. In the chapel of St.
Agnes there are some very fine paintings ;
among others, St. Ursula and her 11,000
virgins.
The church of St. Mary is remarkable
for its antiquity : said to have been built
on the site of the Roman capitol by Plec-
trudis in the year 700. Plectrudis was
the wife of Pepin, whom she abandoned on
account of his attachment for Alpais, the
mother of the famous Charles Martel.
There is an effigy of her let into the wall
outside of the choir. The church contains
several fine pictures, frescoes in the choir,
and a spacious cn'pt.
The church of &t. Peter will be visited
with interest, as it contains not only the
font in which Rubens was baptized he
was born in Cologne but also one of his
masterpieces, the Crucifixion of St. Peter,
which Rubens in his letters to Gildorp de-
scribes as the best picture he ever painted.
St. Peter beingcrucilied with his head down-
ward, the subject was considered most diffi-
cult. Rubens presented it to the church in
which he was baptized a short time before
his death. It in used as an altar-piece. On
583
COLOGNE.
[THE EMPIRE OF GERMANY.]
COLOGNE.
the outside of the shutter is a copy ; the
original will be shown for 1^ marks.
The church of St. Ursula is one of the
most remarkable sights in Cologne. The
tradition of St. Ursula is this : She was
the daughter of the King of Brittany,
who sailed up the Rhine as far us Basle,
accompanied by 11,000 virgins, to make
a pilgrimage to Rome ; from Basle she
traveled on foot, and was received at the
Holy City by the Pope with great hon-
ors. On her return the whole party was
barbarously murdered by the Huns, oe-
cause they refused to break their vows of
chastity. St. Ursula was accompanied by
her lover Conan and an escort of knights.
St. Ursula and Conan suffered death in the
camp of the Emperor Maximin. Ursula
was placed in the Calendar as the patron
saint of Chastity ; and the bones of all the
attendant virgins were gathered together,
and the present church erected to contain
the sacred relics. On every side you turn,
skulls, arm and leg bones meet your eye,
piled on shelves built in the walls. In ev-
en' direction these hideous relics stare you
in the face. Hood says it is the chastest
kind of architecture. St. Ursula herself
is exhibited in a coffin which is surrounded
by the skulls of a few of her favorite at-
tendants. The room in which she is laid
contains numerous other relics; among
these are the chains with which St. Peter
was bound, and one of the clay vessels used
by the Saviour at the marriage in Cana.
St. Gereon, a church dedicated to the
memory of 408 martyrs of the Theban le-
gion, who with their captains, Gereon and
Gregory, perished under the persecution of
Diocletian ; they became patron saints of
Cologne. A large number of the skulls
are arranged around the choir. A short dis-
tance east of this church is the archiepis-
copal palace, in front of which stands the
Mariensiiule, a monument to the Virgin,
erected in 1858 to commemorate the pro-
mulgation of the doctrine of the Immacu-
late Conception.
Apostles' 1 Church is a very fine structure,
situated in the Neumarkt, erected in the
12th century when the Romanesque style
had attained its perfection.
The Jesuits' Church, erected at the com-
mencement of the 17th century. It is rich
in decorations, marbles, and sculpture. It
contains the rosary of St. Ignatius Loyola
584
and the crosier of St. Francis Xavier. The
bells of the church were cast from cannon
taken by Tilly at Magdeburg.
There are several other churches well
worth a visit should you make any stay,
viz., St. Pantaleon, Gross St. ^fartin, etc.
A visit should be made to No. 10 Ster-
nengasse. It is not only historically in-
teresting as the house in which Rubens
was born in 1577, but where Maria de' Me-
dici breathed her last in 1(5-12; her head
was buried in the cathedral, ;iud her body
conveyed to France.
The well-known liquid which bears the
name of the city (eau de Cologne) is an im-
portant production of the place, and is ex-
ported in very large quantities. John Maria
Farina, opposite Jiilichsplatz, manufactures
the genuine Cologne, to which was awarded
the prize-medals of the London exhibitions
of 1851 and 1862, an honorable mention in
Paris. 1855, and prize-medals in Paris, 1867,
and Vienna, 1873; established in 1709. The
Julichsplatz is but two minutes' walk from
the principal thoroughfare, the Hochstrassa,
and the building easily recognized.
Museum (Wallraf"- Richartz). This
handsome Gothic edifice (with its contents)
owes its existence to the munificence of
two citizens of Cologne. The building was
constructed in 1861 by M. Richartz at an
expense of $150,000, and its contents are
the legacy of M. Wallraf. They consist of
objects of Roman antiquities, pictures of
the old school of Cologne, some 400 in num-
ber, consisting of specimens of Rubens, Hol-
bein, Cranach, Dilrer, and Van Dyck.
One of the wings is devoted to modern
paintings.
The exterior is decorated with statues
of noted citizens, and the staircase with
frescoes by Steinle. On the ground floor
there are three rooms devoted to an expo-
sition of pictures by Cologne artists.
In the Museumplatz, No. 16 Richartz-
strasse. first story, is a branch of Mr.
Schulte's celebrated picture collection, filled
with works by the best Diisseldorf artists.
The Rathhaus, or Town-hall, fronts on
the Altenmarkt. It dates from the thir-
teenth century, and was rebuilt in 1549.
The Hansa-Saal. which at one time held
the meetings of citizens who controlled the
commerce of the world, dates from the
fourteenth century. It has recently been
restored.
COLOGNE.
[THE EMPIRE OF GERMANY.] AIX-I.A-CHAPELLE.
To the south of the Rathhaus is situated
the Gurzenich, so called from the name of
the person who gave the ground ; it is the
most imposing of the ancient monuments of
Cologne. It was commenced in 1441, and
finished in 1474 ; it was restored in Itf59.
Several Diets of the empire were held here,
and numerous German emperors here en-
tertained the magnates of the city. The
large balls, concerts, and other entertain-
ments are given here. Over the eastern
door are the statues of Agrippa and Mursi-
lius, the founders and defenders of the city
in the time of the Romans.
The Casino is a handsome building with
ball and reading room.
The Chamber of Commerce and Exchange
is situated in a house belonging to tin-
Templars, which dates from the twelfth
century. It was enlarged and repaired in
1840.
The Zoological and Botanical Gardens
are situated a short distance down the
river, and are much resorted to by the cit-
izens. The wild animals are very line, and
equaled by few in Europe. There is also
an Aquarium. Small steamers run down
for '20 pfennigs. Entrance to each, one
murk. On Sundays to the Zoological Gar-
dens -J mark, and on days when there are
concerts 14 mark.
The theatres are the Sturttlheater, in the
Clock en gasse, and the Thalia-Theater.
Tlio old fortifications of Cologne have
been torn down, and new lines constructed
fallowing an enlargement of the city), with
detached and outlying forts. In the in-
undation that visited the l!lii'iii-li prov-
inces and the Palatinate at the beginning
of 1883, one of the forts (of Rodenkirc/ten)
was destroyed l>y the floods.
Carriages (droschke). In the city, one
or two persons, \ mark ; four persons, 1
mark. To Deutz, idem, with 75 pf. toll.
Steamers to Mainz in 12 hours, and back
in 8; fare, 7 marks 40 pf. Also to Bonn,
Coblentz, Mannheim, etc.
Cologne to Frankfort, 5 h. 30 m. ; fare,
first class, 18 m. 30 pf. ; second class, 13m.
20 pf. ; to Bonn, 40 minutes; fare, 2 m.
50 pf. ; to Coblentz, 1 h. 53 m. ; fare, 7 m.
30 pf. ; to Mainz, 3 h. 51 m. ; fare, first
class, 14 m. 90 pf. ; second class, 10 m. 90
pf.; to Aix-la-Chapelle (Aachen), 1 h. 22
m. : fare, first class, 7 m. 50 pf. ; second
class, 4 m. 50 pf. ; to Berlin, 10 h. 15 m.,
noon ; fare, first class, 53 m. 30 pf. ; second
class, 39 m. 60 pf. ; to Paris, at 10.30 P.M.,
in 11 h. 15 m., and at 8.30 A.M. in 11 h. 10
m. ; fare, 47 m. 80 pf. ; sleeping-car, Route
145.
Continuing Route 145 from Cologne to
Paris, after passing through a tunnel of
1625 yards in length, which occupies three
minutes in traversing, the junction Diiren
is reached. This town, the Marcodurum
of Tacitus, contains 8000 inhabitants, prin-
cipally devoted to the manufacture of pa-
per and cloth. It was captured by Charles
V. in 1543. In the church of St. Anne
there is a strong box which incloses the
head of that saint.
A railway to the left leads to the Eifel
and Treves. Another to the right leads to
\euss, in 1 hour 15 minutes, passing Bed-
linrrj. where there is a college for the sons
of the Rhenish nobility.
Aix-la-Chapelle is a city of 85,432 inhab-
itants. Its hotels are first class, and admi-
rably managed. They are the Grand Mo-
narque, Xuellen'g, Ktii. rbnd, and Xtubad.
The season lasts all the year. The proprie-
tors. Messrs. Dremel, are large wine-dealers.
Aix-la-Chapelle was known to the Ro-
mans as Aquis Granum ; its warm springs
being the strongest inducement to make
them settle there. Charlemagne, however,
raised the city to its groat eminence : it
was not only his birthplace, but also the
scene of his death, which event took place
in 814. It became the second city of his
great empire, and its capital north of the
j Alps, and thirty-seven of his successors were
585
AIX-LA-CHAPELLE. [THE EMPIRE OF GERMANY.] AIX-LA-CHAPBLLE.
crowned here between the date of his death
and 1531. In the Middle Ages it was a great
free imperial city, and the scene of many
Diets of the empire. It is also noted for the
numerous congresses held within its walls.
Since the days of the Romans it has been
known as a watering-place, and is annual-
ly frequented by hundreds ibr the cure of
chronic cutaneous diseases, gout, rheuma-
tism, and ulcerous affections. The Kaiser-
bad Spring contains a larger quantity of
sulphur than any other in Europe.
Aix-la-Chapelle was named after " the
chapel " erected \>y Charlemagne. It stood
on the site of the present cathedral or min-
ster, and was intended as a place of burial
for himself and descendants. It was con-
secrated by Pope Leo III., assisted by 365
bishops and archbishops. The church was
destroyed by the Normans in the 10th cen-
tury. The present edifice, however, is one
of the oldest in Europe, and is unequaled
in the number and value of the relics it
contains, some of which are only shown
once in seven years, when hundreds of
thousands make pilgrimages to see them.
They were presented to Charlemagne by
the Grand Patriarch of Jerusalem. They
consist of the swaddling-clothes in which
the Saviour was wrapped, the scarf he wore
at the Crucifixion, spotted with blood, a
cotton robe worn by the Virgin at the Na-
tivity, and the cloth on which the head of
John the Baptist was laid. These, with
numerous presents of great value present-
ed by different German emperors, are de-
posited in a silver vase of great cost, and.
as we before remarked, are shown only
every seventh year ; 1881 was the last
time.
There are also numerous other relics,
considered not as of much importance, but
guarded with jealous care. It requires a
fee of one mark, and one and a half mark
for a party, to make the guardian expose
them, the principal of which are a locket
of the Virgin's hair, and a piece of the
true cross, both of which Charlemagne wore
round his neck when he died and while in
the grave ; the leathern girdle of Christ ;
the bones of St. Stephen ; the cord which
bound the rod which smote the Saviour ; a
piece of Aaron's rod, and the arm-bone of
the Emperor Charlemagne. All the em-
perors and empresses of Germany for over
700 vears have sworn on these relics at
586
j their coronation. Under the centre of the
dome is a slab of marble, on which is in-
scribed ' C'irlomrtfjno," pointing out the
position of his tomb. A full mass is chant-
ed in the cathedral every Sunday at 10
o'clock A.M.
The Hotel de Ville is an imposing build-
ing of the 14th century, standing on the
site of the palace where Charlemagne was
born. It contains an ancient hall, beauti-
fully restored, with frescoes by Rethtl and
Kekren, and statuettes of thirty-six German
emperors. It is particularly celebrated
for the congresses held there that of 1748,
j when a general peace was signed by all
| the crowned heads of Europe, and that of
1818, when the Emperors of Russia and
Austria, and the King of Prussia, in addi-
tion to deputies from Louis XVIII. and
George IV., here assembled. The left tower
was completely destroyed in the great fire
jof 1883, when 35 other houses were burned
down. The magnificent Kaisersaal barely
escaped ruin. In the centre of the market-
place stands a fine bronze equestrian figure
of Charlemagne.
At the fountain of Elisa there is a cafe,
drinking -room, and restaurant. A band
plays from 7 to 8 o'clock A.M., from 12 to
1, and also in the evening. The Kurhaus,
at which place weekly balls are given, is
a fine suite of rooms. For the accommo-
dation of visitors, there is a reading-room
supplied with reviews and all the maga-
zines and foreign newspapers, for the use
of which visitors remaining any length of
time pay a small monthly subscription fee.
The manufactures of Aix are very ex-
tensive, in proportion to the population of
the town, chief among which is the manu-
facture of cloth, steam-engines and spin-
ning machinery, looking-glasses, and em-
broidery. There is an agency of the cele-
brated Saxon china established here, where
that beautiful porcelain may bo bought at
the same price as in Dresden.
Near Maestricht, Polytechnic School, a
handsome building in the Renaissance style.
Borcette, a small town three miles dis-
tant, is more retired, for persons taking the
waters. Hotels : St. Charles and Rosenbad.
In front of the Rhenish Railway Station
a monument has been erected in bronze, by
Drake,to the citizensof Aix-la-Chapelle who
died during the wars of 1866 and 1870-71.
BRANDENBURG.
[THE EMPIRE OF GERMANY.]
MAGDEBCRO.
An excursion should be made to Lous-
berg, about forty minutes from Aix. Its
promenades are very pretty and much fre-
quented, whence a beautiful view of the
surrounding country is obtained.
The Liftlvrtufrl concerts, which take
place every Saturday, are well worth a
visit, anil admittance can be easily gained
by applying to your hotel proprietor.
From Ais-ln-Ch'ipelle to Puris. Time,
10 h. 18 m. ; fare, first class, 38 marks 20
pf. Sleeping-car to Paris, see beginning
of the route. To Cologne, 1 h. 24 m. ;
fare, 7 marks 50 pf.
For description of route from Aix-la-
Chapelle to Paris, see Route 132, Vol. I.
ROUTE No. 146.
Berlin to Cologne, via Potsdam, Branden-
burg, Magdeburg (and Brunswick'), Elber-
feld, and Deutz. Time, 10 h. 24 m. ; fare,
first-class, 53 marks 30 pf. ; second class,
39 marks 60 pf.
[This is a route seldom made by travel-
ers, unless they have some particular ob-
ject in passing through these places. Many
take the route as far as Magdeburg, then
branch off through Brunswick, joining the
mail route via Stendal, and pass through
Hanover, Minden, etc. This last was for-
merly the mail route before the one via
Stendal was opened.]
Potfdam, described in excursions from
Berlin (see Index).
Brandenburg, an interesting town of
25,500 inhabitants, is situated on the Ha-
vel, which widens out here into the Lake,
of Plauen. Hotels, Schwarzer Bar and
Schwarzer Adlir. The town occupies the
site of the ancient Brenabor, captured in
1153 by Albert the Bear, count of Anhalt,
the same who founded Berlin, and took the
titlo of Margrave of Brandenburg.
The Cathedral is situated on a small isl-
and, which forms one of the quarters of the
town. A portion of it dates back to the
twelfth century, and is in the Romanesque
style. It was restored by Schinkel in
1836. The high altar is of carved wood,
and represents the Coronation of the Vir-
gin. In one of the chambers attached to
the church are some relics held in high
repute. Among others the pocket of Da-
vid's sling ; Goliath's staff; studs from the
bedstead of the Virgin ; the manger out
of which St. Joseph's ass fed.
The Church of St. Catharine is a very
handsome Gothic church, constructed of
brick, and dating from the 14th century.
It possesses several fine monuments and a
magnificent altar in sculptured wood.
In front of the Hotel de Ville. a fine
Gothic structure, there Is a Roland column,
eighteen feet high. To the northeast of
the town there is a hill, called the Marien-
berg, from which there is a fine view.
Passing Burg, a town of 15,000 inhab-
itants, all of whom are principally employ-
ed in the manufacture of cloth. The town
was founded by French refugees driven
out of Franca by the revocation of the
Edict of Nantes.
Magdeburg, the capital of the province
of Saxon y, is one of the strongest fortresses
in Europe. It contains 84,452 inhabitants.
Hotels, Weisser Sckwan, London f/otel, and
Stadt Braunschweig. Its citadel is built on
an island in the Elbe, which runs through
the town. Magdeburg is noted for its
manufactures of cottons, woolens, gloves,
lace, porcelain, and tobacco. It has an
active trade, which is facilitated by steam
packets on the Elbe. The town is very
ancient, having been in existence since
the bth century. It suffered much during
the religious wars of the 16th and 17th cen-
turies, but most of all when it was sacked
by Tilly. It resisted the Austrian army
under Wallenstein for seven months. It
was besieged and taken by the French in
1806, and also in 1813.
The principal and perhaps the only build-
ing worthy of note is the Domkirche, or
Cathedral, and that is truly splendid. The
interior is magnificent, and contains many
interesting and highly finished sculptured
monuments. It was badly used by the
French, who turned it into a stable ; it has
however, been lately restored by the Prus-
sian government at an enormous expense.
The principal monuments are, that of Arch-
bishop Ernest : it is in bronze, and sur-
rounded by figures of the twelve apostles ;
the tombs of the Emperor Otho, and of
his queen, Editha ; a monument of Bake, a
canon of the church, who saved it from de-
587
MAGDEBURG.
[THE EMPIRE OF GERMANY.]
BRUNSWICK.
struction by interceding with Tilly, whose
schoolfellow he was. There is also the
monument of the woman of Asseburg who
was buried alive, made her escape, return-
ed to her husband the night after her bur-
ial, had several children, and lived nine
years after. Tilly's sword and helmet are
shown here. In the old market, opposite
the Rathhaus, stand the equestrian statues
of the Emperor Otho and his two queens:
it was erected in 979. The French gen-
eral Carnot is buried here : he was Minis-
ter of War when Napoleon was First Con-
sul, and during the hundred days was Min-
ister of the Interior ; he was banished from
France at the Restoration, and died at Mag-
deburg in 1821. The most animated por-
tion of the city is the Breite Weg, a prin-
cipal street which traverses the town from
north to south. Here the Exchange is sit-
uated. It was restored in 1873. No. 146 of
the same street bears the inscription : " Ge-
denke des lOten Mai, 1631." It was here,
it is said, the traitor lived who betrayed
the town to Tilly.
The citadel is very strong, and serves as
a state prison ; Lafayette and Carnot were
both confined in it, as also Baron von
Trenck, who was guillotined in Paris in
1794. He was confined by Frederick the
Great, because he was in love with that
monarch's sister, the Princess Amelia.
On the east of the Domplatz are situated
the Schloss and government offices ; near
which stands the Marienkirche, connected
with some old abbey buildings now used
for educational purposes.
In front of the Hotel de Vllle stands an
equestrian statue of Olho the Great, which
dates from the 13th century ; it was re-
stored in 1858. Near to this is a statue to
Francke, the burgomaster, erected in 185G.
The Furstenwall, a terrace named from
Prince Leopold of Dessau, is the most fre-
quented promenade in the interior of the
city. Farther on is the new quarter of the
town, recently built with handsome houses ;
beyond which is the Frederick William
Garden, which occupies the place of the
Convent of Bergen, so celebrated in former
years. It is finely laid out, and commands
some exquisite views.
Luther went to school at Magdeburg,
and he himself records the fact that he
used to sing in the public streets in front
* f - rich men's houses to acquire the means
588
of supporting himself and prosecuting his
studies.
To the south of the public garden is the
small industrial town of Buckau.
Steamers run down the Elbe several
times a week to Hamburg and Harburg.
.\fatfdeburg to Paris. Time, 19 h. 32 m. ;
fare, first class, 108 frs. ; (Mixte). second
class in Germany, first class in France,
91 frs. G5 c.
Magdeburg to firemen. Time. 5 h. 37 m. ;
fare, first class, 21 marks 8 g. ; second
class, 16 marks 1 g.
Magdeburg to Hanover. Time, 4 h. ;
fare, first class, 12 marks ; second class, 8
marks 8 g.
Magdeburg to Brunswick. Time, 2 h.
10 m. ; fare, first class, 7 marks ; second
class, 5 marks.
Magdeburg to Leipzig. Time 2 h.
30 m. (express) ; fare, first class, 9 marks
6g.
Magdeburg to Berlin. Time, 2 h. 37 m. ;
fare, first class, 12 marks ; second class,
9 marks.
[Brunswick is out of the route to Krei-
ensen, but on the way to Hanover time,
1 h. 12 m. and was formerly on the high-
road between Berlin and Paris ; since de-
serted as a mail route.
DUCHY OF BRUNSWICK.
The duchy of Brunswick embraces three
detached portions of moderate size, in-
closed between the province of Hanover
and other Prussian dominions, together
with several pieces of much smaller extent.
The inhabitants of this duchy are mostly
descended from a branch of the ancient
Saxons, and the Low-German language is
universal among the villagers, except on
the Harz Mountains, where the mining
population speak High-German. Personal
courage and open-heartedness are the lead-
ing characteristics of the Brunswickers.
They are allowed to be the best situated,
in point of comfort and village economy,
of all the Germans, and the aspect of the
whole country is indicative of good order
and prosperity. It is one of the best-gov-
erned states in Europe. The public debt
amounts to $16,350,000.
BRUNSWICK.
[THE EMPIRE OF GERMANY.:
BRUNSWH K.
The present Duke of Brunswick is a I
lineal descendant of Henry the Lion, the ,
: the house of Welf, who held the ,
united duchies of Bavaria and Saxony ; his
elder brother, formerly Duke of Bruns-
wick, died at Geneva in 1^74, leaving thtit
city his whole private fortune. In their
rivalry with the Suabian house of Hohen-
staufen, in the 12th century, the party of
the powerful Welfs was stronger in Italy
than in Germany, and the jealousy enter- '
tained of their power in the former coun- '
try caused all the princes of the empire to
unite with the Emperor Frederick Barba- ;
rossa in humbling them. Henry the Lion, \
having refused to aid that emperor in his
wars with the free Italian cities and the
pope, was deprived. by a decree of the
Diet in 1180, of both his duchies, and only
left the possession of his allodial domain
of Brunswick and Luneburg (or Hanover),
which were subsequently split into numer-
ous branches, but merged finally into the
still reigning linos of Hanover and Bruns-
wick, which is the elder branch. As such
the crown of England would have de-
volved to this line, which claims descent
from the daughter of Henry II., on the ex-
tinction of the house of Stuart, had not the
Duke of Luneburg, afterward George I.,
by marrying the daughter of Elizabeth.
Countess Palatine, the daughter of James
I. of England, procured a prior claim to
the younger line.
Treaties of mutual inheritance existed
between the houses of Hanover and Bruns-
wick, and the succession only passes to the
female side when legitimate male heirs
fail. The intimate family connection which
in the last century subsisted between the
house of Brunswick and the reigning fam-
ilies of Great Britain and Prussia engaged
the princes of Brunswick in political alli-
ances with these two powers, in opposition
to France and occasionally to Austria. The
Prussian army, at the outset of the disas- :
trous campaign of 1806, was commanded
by the duke Charles William Ferdinand
of Brunswick, who fell in the battle of Jena.
Although he h;ul declared his duchy neu-
tral, and no Brunswick troops were with
the Prussian army, yet his lands were
immediately seized by the conqueror, and
incorporated with the kingdom of We~t-
phalia. His youngest son, Frederick Will-
iam, after the death of his eldest, and the
abdication of his second brother, the sole
remaining heir, served some time in the
Prussian, and afterward in the Austrian
army. In 1809 this adventurous prince
raised a small corps, and attempted, in co-
operation with the grand Austrian army,
to excite a diversion in the north of Ger-
many ; but, finding his cause ruined by the
victory of the French at Wagram, he cross-
ed the whole of Germany at the head of a
small body not exceeding 2000 men, and
marched from the Bohemian frontier to
the sea-coast near Bremen. Alternately
eluding and fighting the various French
corps which crossed his passage, with equal
good fortune and bravery he succeeded in
embarking for England, where his troops
joined the British army, with permission
to retain the black uniform which their
bravery had rendered celebrated, and
served until 1814 in the Peninsula. Hav-
ing regained his dominions under the stip-
ulations of the Treaty of Vienna, Freder-
iek William fell at the head of his troops
while maintaining his position at Quatre
Bras, two days before the battle of Water-
loo.
Brunswick, capital of the duchy, con-
tains 75,038 inhabitants. Hotels, Braun-
schweig Hotel, Deutsches Ifaus. II. <k Prusse,
and H. d'Angleterre. Henry the Lion
made this city his residence in the 12th
century, fortifying and adorning it. From
this prince the present royal family of
England are descended. The principal
objects of curiosity to be seen are the new
palace or ftesitJenzschloss : it is erected on
the site of the Grave I/of, which was burned
by the mob in 1839, and again burned in
1865. The principal facade is 400 feet
long, beautifully decorated. The beautiful
entrance is crowned by a celebrated Qua-
driga, or car, drawn by four horses as rep-
resented on ancient medals : the work is
in copper, by Riftschel. There are two
colossal statues on the summit of the edi-
fice, representing Henry the Lion and Otho
the Enfant, by Blaser. The interior, which
is very beautiful, is well worth a visit;
inquire of the intendant at the entrance.
The Cathedral of St. Blaize was finished
by Henry the Lion: it is an interesting
solid structure in the Byzantine Gothic
style. It contains the monuments of
Henry the Lion and his wife. Matilda (sis-
ter of Richard Coeur de Lion). In the
589
BRUNSWICK.
[THE EMPIRE OF GERMANY.]
BRUNSWICK.
vaults beneath the church lie the coffins of
Duke Charles William Ferdinand, who fell
at the battle of Jena, and his son, Duke
Frederick William, who fell at Quatre
Bras, nobly avenging his father's death.
Small black flags (the color of his uni-
form), presented, the one by the matrons,
the other by the maidens of Brunswick,
hang above Duke Frederick's coffin. Close
to these lies the coffin of Caroline of Bruns-
wick, the unfortunate queen of George IV.,
ling of England. The church contains
numerous relics brought from the East by
Henry the Lion : his own statue, the high-
priest's servant's ear, the bone of a whale,
which was formerly passed off as one of
Goliath's ribs, and various other articles.
Near the cathedral stands a large bronze
lion, said to have been cast in Constanti-
nople, and brought from there by Henry
the Lion, who placed it upon a pedestal in
front of his palace, on the site of which a
barrack now stands.
The Museum, also near the cathedral,
contains numerous gems of painting and
sculpture. Among the former there is a
portrait by Raphael, an Adam and Eve by
Giorgione, portraits by Rembrandt and Al-
bert Diirer, a Marriage Contract and a
Musical Party by Steens, a Crucifixion by
Benvenuto Cellini. Among the leading
antiquities there is a stone carving of St.
John Preaching in the Wilderness, by Al-
bert Diirer; Kosciusko's cup, carved in
prison ; Luther's ring, the sword of Duke
Frederick William, and the uniform of Fred-
erick the Great. The Museum is open
daily, excepting on holidays, from 25th
April until 19th October, from 10 to 1.30 ;
Sundays, 11 to 1 ; and Wednesdays and
Saturdays, 3 to 5. The church of "St. An-
drews with its steeples, one of which is
320 feet high containing a bronze font ;
and that of St. Catharine, with paintings
by Diebrich, and stained-glass windows
from designs by Cranach and Diirer; as
well as the church of St. Martin, in the
pointed Gothic style, are interesting to
lovers of the fine arts.
Brunswick contains numerous manufac-
tories of linen and woolen stuff, hardware.
He., with many excellent schools and char-
itable institutions. The city has a very
quaint appearance, with innumerable ga-
bles, high-pitched roofs, and overhanging
stories, one above the other, the tops of the
590
houses on opposite sides of the narrow streets
often making close approach to one anoth-
er. The city is surrounded with pretty
walks, which occupy the site of the former
ramparts ; here the citizens have erected a
cast-iron obelisk to the memory of the two
dukes whs fell at Jena and Quatre Bras :
it is 60 feet high. About a mile from the
city is the monument erected to the mem-
ory of the patriot Schill, who was shot by
the French. He was at the head of the
rising against the French in 1808, was un-
successful, captured, and shot, with many
of his companions in arms. The body-
guard of the present duke wear the same
uniform that distinguished the Duke Fred-
erick William jet black, with death's head
and cross-bones. Lessing, the celebrated
German author, is buried in the Muyni
Kirchhnf; there is also a statue erected to
his memory in Lessingplatz ; he was a Ion ;
time librarian to the Duke of Brunswick.
The space between the t;ates Steinthor
and Fallerslebentlior is now occupied by
the ducal park. At the terminus of Stein-
wegstrasse a handsome theatre was erected
in 1861, to commemorate the 1000th anni-
versary of the foundation of the city.
Outside the gate, on a road leading to
the exercising-ground, a column has been
erected to the memory of Olfentan, who
commanded the Brunswick troops at the
battle of Waterloo.
Not far from the city, on the Zinkenberg
hill, stands the pleasant chateau called the
Richmond, built for the duke in 1768 ; also
the villa Williamscastle, built in the Gothic-
Norman style, and surrounded by beauti-
ful gardens.
From Brunswick to Paris. Time, 19 h.
10 m. ; fare, first class, 81 marks 20 pf. ;
second (with first from Cologne), 74 marks.
Brunswick to Magdeburg. Time, 1 h.
40 m. ; fare, first class, 8 marks 70 pf. ;
second class, 5 marks 80 pf.
Brunswick to Hanover. Time, 1 h. 12 m. :
fare, first class, 5 marks 70 pf. ; second
class. -1 marks 20 pf.
Bnmstrick to Leipzig. Time, 4 h. 20 m. ,
fare, first class, 20 marks 70 pf.
Brunswick to Berlin. Time, 5 h. ; fare,
first class, 19 marks 20 pf. ; second class,
15^ marks.
Excursions can be made from Bruns-
wick to the Harz Mountains, also to Hal-
berstadt and Oschersleben. From Halber-
HARZ MOI-NTAINS. [THE EMPIRE OF GERMANY.] OSTERODE.
stadt there are branch railways to Blanken- 'of the empire, the birthplace of the Em-
bury, Quedlinbiirg, Thale, and Ballenstedt, peror Henry IV., and for many j-ears an
all penetrating into the Harz; also to Gos- imperial residence.
lar, the nearest point from Brunswick. If Here are still to be seen many interest-
on the Gottingcn side of the mountains, a ing specimens and relics of mediaeval ar-
day might be spent in making an exciir- chitecture ; among which the Imperial
sion to Goslar ; another from Goslar to Palace (Kuiserpfalz), built in the course of
Brocken, the third from Brocken to Blank- the llth century ; the Domkapdlc. or ca-
enburg, thence to the Rosstrappe and thcdral chapel, being the remnant of the
Alexisbad. Eight or nine days, however, celebrated cathedral built during the lat-
may well be spent in making a thorough ter part of the llth century, and pulled
tour of the mountains. One day in visit- down some fifty years ago. A few objects
ing the valley Selke and Alexisbad; second of art, having belonged to the church, are
day. Gernrode, Suderode, and Hexentanz- still shown inside; a small fee is expected.
platz ; third, Ifirsch, the valky of the Bode. The Town-hall, where the Btisskalze is to be
and Rosslrappf; fourth, Blankenburg, Rube- seen, that is, the Biting Cat, in which shrews
land, and Wernigerode ; fifth, the Steinerne used to be confined ; a huge tower called
]!< nnt, and Brocken ; sixth, Ilsenberg and j the Zicinger, by the Breitenthor, or Broad-
Burgberg; seventh, the environs of Harz- gate. A little way out of the town are
burg; eighth, the valley of the Oker and ; the pools, the waters of which are made
Goslar. Nearly all the points of interest yellow by the ochre that is found in them ;
can be visited in carriages. There is a
good road between Goslar, Herzberg, and
Wernigerode, between (Joslar and Oste-
rode, between Wernigerode, Elbingcrode,
and a short distance from them some curi-
ous rocks, nearly 100 feet high, calkd the
Kltts, where a grotto has been h^wu and
a chapel built.
and Blankenburg. One from Harzburg 1 On the way to Harzburg you go through
to the foot of the Brocken, and from Wer- a village called Oker, situated at the en-
nigerode, to the top of the Brocken by trance of the wild valley so called, and
Ilsenberg.
Carriage* with two horses cost 15 marks
renowned for extensive iron- works. Ho-
tel, Liier.
per day. not including tolls and pourboire. Harzburg. A place of great resort, sit-
Guides are almost indispensable; the usual uated at the entrance of the Radau dale,
price is four marks, and one groschen per The most striking feature is the hill, about
mile return-money. ] 1600 feet high, ycleped Burgberg, with the
The Harz Mountains are about sixty ruins of a castle built by the Emperor
miles long by twenty broad, and are the Henry IV., the prospect from which is
most northern mountain range in Germany, magnificent. At a short distance from the
The Oberharz is the most westerly portion ; town is to be seen a beautiful artificial
even' thing here is dark and gloomy, cascade. Taking Harzburg as a centre,
The eastern portion, or Unterharz, is pleas-
anter, and the scenery more picturesque.
The range lies on the borders of Hanover,
Brunswick, and Anhalt (see Germany).
interesting excursions may be enjoyed in
various directions to places not far remote.
The Hotel Burgberg is recommended.
Clausthal, the chief town of the Harz, is
The mountains, of which Brocken is the reached through the picturesque valley of
highest, are neither lofty nor grand, and the Oker, with about 10.000 inhabitants ;
the tourist must not expect to see either it is the most important mining place in
the Alps or Pyrenees. the Harz. The hill on which it stands is
August and September are the best 1800 feet above the level of the sea. and
months to visit the Harz. the country about it Js bare and desolate.
Supposing the traveler at Brunswick, Houses and churches are built of wood,
we will commence the tour of the Harz at There is in the School of Mines an exten-
Goflar. sive collection of models and minerals.
From Brunswick to Goslar (railway"). Hotel, The Krotij,
Time, 1 h.55 ni. ; fare, first clas?, 3 marks A high-road, affording gome beautiful
4 g. ; second class, 2 marks 8 g.
Goslar, Once an important free town
VOL. II. C 2
prospects, brings the tourist to
Osterode, a small town, interesting only
591
HERZBERG.
[THE EMPIRE OF GERMANY.]
BALLEXSTEDT.
on account of many very old houses. Ho-
tel, Englischer Hof.
Ilerzberg. The only attraction here is
a very old castle where the Dukes of
Brunswick used to reside. Tho lire-arms
manufactory is, however, well worth a
visit.
Andreasberg, reached through the pict-
uresque Sieber valley, is a small town
1960 feet above the sea, and most roman-
tically situated. Here is a silver foundry.
The foot-path along the llehberger Gra-
ben affords a most interesting walk to the
Bracken, the loftiest mount in the whole
range, being about 3300 feet above the
level of the sea. On the top and close by
the inn is a tower, from the top of which,
in serene weather, the prospect extends
80 or 90 miles. Here may then be de-
scried the spires of Gotdngen, Gotha, Mag-
deburg, and other cities. The various
masses of granite in the neighborhood of
this tower are distinguished by names bear-
ing reference to legends of the Middle
Ages, such as the Devil's Pulpit, etc.
Ilsenberg. On the top of an eminence
stands the castle of Count Stolberg-Wer-
nigerode, who owns here extensive cast-
iron works. Hotel, Deutscher II of.
The iron cross on the Ilsenstein height
in the Ilsen valley was erected by Count
Stolberg, to commemorate the names of
friends who perished in the wars for the
liberation of Germany.
Wernigerode. Chief town of the county
of Stolberg-Wernigerode, remarkable for
its handsome wooden buildings in Gothic
style. The Town-hall, prominent among
them, is of the 13th or 14th centurj r .
Pleasant walks and beautiful views may
be enjoyed in the immediate environs.
The castle, which commands a panoramic
view of the town, stands amid most pict-
uresque scenery. Hotel, Lindenberg.
Blankenburg. In a very romantic site.
Here is the splendid castle where Maria
Theresa lived in her youth. The town
was bombarded during the Thirty-years'
War. Hotel, The White Eagle, The sand-
stone rocks, 277 feet high, and the ruins of
a stronghold at Pegenstein, little more than
one mile from Blankenburg, are worth a
visit.
The Kosslrappe is a huge mass of granite
some 1500 feet above the sea, and 700 above
the Bode, rising perpendicularly on three
592
sides and projecting over the valley. It
owes its name (the Horse's Hoof) from a
legend of some princess, who, being pur-
sued by a giant, leaped her horse across
the valley of the Bode, who left in the
rock the dint of his hoof.
Quedlinburg, once a free town of the
empire, founded in the 10th century, con-
tains 17,000 inhabitants. Hotel, The Black
| Bear. The castle, rising on a rock, was
an abbey (secularized in 1802), whose ab-
j besses were persons of great importance,
bearing the title of Princesses of the Em-
; pire, and enjoying many privileges, which,
' however, they forfeited, as well as the best
part of their possessions, by embracing the
Lutheran doctrines.
Gernrode has a beautiful Roman church
of the 10th century. Hotels, The Gold-
en Lion and the Inn on the Stubbenberg.
The view enjoyed from the top of this rock
ought by no means to be missed, it being
\ considered the most charming and exten-
I sive in the Harz Mountains. Thence a path
gradually ascending through delicious
woodland brings you to Eambfrg and the
Victorshahe, on the summit of which rises a
tower commanding a most extensive pros-
pect. The same path downhill leads to A lex-
isbad, a small watering-place. Schaum's
Hotel. Diligences run daily from this
place to
Ballenstedt, in a very romantic situation,
has 4000 inhabitants. The ducal castle,
with a splendid park, contains a collection
| of choice pictures. Then, as you bend
your course in the direction of Nordhausen,
you meet Harzgerode and Stolberg. (/-'m-
tag's Hotel.) The castle contains some in-
; teresting objects. Neiutadt,~mtb the ruins
I of the Hohensttin ; Jlfeld, in the picturesque
( Berethal, formerly a monastery and far-
; famed school ; and then WaOeemied^ with
the ruins of a monastery, part of which is
still in a very good state of preservation.
The Lion Hotel.
From Afagdeburg to Kreiensen. Time,
2 h, 30 m. Passing Lutter, near which
Tilly gained a victory over Christian IV.
of Denmark, and Seesen, whence parties
visiting the Harz Mountains turn off,
Kreiensen is reached. This is the junction
of the Hanover and Cassel line. Good
restaurant at the station. The road here
crosses the Leine, and passes Jlolzm'nden,
which contains a celebrated grammar^clioo)
HflXTEK.
[THE EMPIHK OF GERMANY.]
STEINHEIM.
and engineering institution. On the left
bank of the Weser, which the road crosses,
is situated the remains of one of the most
noted Benedictine abbeys in Germany.
Corvey was founded by Louis the Pious in '.
813, and was governed by prince abbots for
nearly one thousand years. It was the first
seat oV Christianity in the district. The first
five books of the ''Annals of Tacitus" were ]
found here in the library in 1514. It is
now the property of Princa Hohenlohe.
Iloxter Hotel, Schwiete an ancient
town still surrounded by walls, at one
time a member of the Hanseatic League,
and a free town of the empire. The ruins
of the old watch-tower on the right of the
railway was at one time the stronghold of
Bruns, the brother of Witikind, hence the
name Brunsberg. It was one of the most
famous of the Saxon strongholds, and the
scene of a fierce conflict between Charle-
magne and the Saxons.
A fine avenue of lime-trees connects
Hoxter with the Abbey of Corvev.
From Hoxter a diligence runs twice a
day during the season to Pyrmont, a wa-
tering-place of considerable note. Hotels,
Krone and Lippixher Hof. The waters are
chalybeate. There is a line avenue, about
one mile long, leading from the springs to
the chateau of Prince Waldeck, which is
the principal promenade of the visitors.
At Driburg there are sulphurous mud- '
baths, surrounded with pleasure-grounds.
Altenbeken junction. Here there is a
line running to Schwarzburg and Cassel.'
Paderborn. Hotels, Ldjfelmann and
Concordia. An ancient and picturesque
town, containing 13,000 inhabitants. It
was the most ancient episcopal seat in
Wi-stphulia founded by Charlemagne.
The Cathedral, a large, peculiar building,
was reconstructed in 1243, after being
nearly destroyed by fire : it contains numer-
ous episcopal monuments, but nothing par-
ti.'iilirly interesting, if the two sculptured
portals bs excepted.
St. Bartholomew's Chapel, an older struct-
ure than the cathedral, is built in the Ro-
manesque style, it is said, by Greek work-
men.
The Rathhaus is a picturesque building
of the 17th century.
One quarter hour from the station is the
iron bathing establishment oflnselbad, and
five miles farther is the Lippe.*pringe, a wa-
tering-place much frequented. Its waters
are sulphurous, with much carbonic acid.
Hotel, Concordia.
At SteaJtan station a railway, nearly
finished, leads through Deimoldto Htrford
(see Route 145). In the mean time dili-
gence daily in 2 h. 30 min., passing Grot^n-
luirr), the highest summit of the Teutobur-
gcr Wald, TJOO feet above the level of the
sea, on the summit of which a monument
has been erected to the German hero Her-
mann, chief of the Cherusci, who defeated
the Romans under Varus.
The statue is an imposing work of art.
Eighty-live feet high from the point of the
uplifted sword to the legendary eagle trod-
den under foot by the victor, this gigantic
Hermann in form and countenance is in-
tended to impersonate the manly vigor,
frankness, and strength attributed to the
ancient Germans by their Roman enemies.
His costume, being the old Saxon tunic,
with bearskin and helmet, leaves arms and
legs uncovered, and gives full effect to the
huge pioportions of the second tallest figure
erected since the Rhodian Colossus. The
circular cupola temple which forms the
pedestal is 89 feet high, and is supported
by a foundation 66 feet in diameter. The
figure, being of chased copper, derives so-
lidity from a complicated system of iron
tubes placed in the interior of the body.
The copper used in making the statue
weighs 237 cwt., the iron 1133 cwt. In the
open temple which forms the base is a
bronze haut-relief of the German emperor,
and sundry German and Latin inscriptions
to commemorate the reign in which the
monument was completed. The German
inscriptions chiefly refer to the last war,
which established Unity and revived Em-
pire, while a Latin legend contains the
well-known words of Tacitus in his " An-
I nals," book 2, chapter 88, in which Her-
i mann is described as the only one who
had the courage to attack Rome, and the
strength to defeat her when at the height
' of her power. The monument was un-
veiled in 1875, in the presence of the Em-
peror William, who was particularly kind
to the aged architect, Herr von Bandcl.
The German crown - prince and Prince
Charles of Prussia attended the inaugura-
tion. The German minor sovereigns were
represented by generals and adjutants de-
puted for the occasion. On his way to
593
DETMOLD.
[THE EMPIRE OF GERMANY.]
ELBERFELD.
Detmold the emperor visited the ancient
imperial city of Goslar, the seat of the
Saxon emperors, where a large concourse
of people from the Harz Mountains and
East Hanover greeted his arrival and fol-
lowed his steps v,-hile inspecting the ca-
thedral and palaces. The monument over-
looks the spot where the battle is supposed
to have been fought in the year 9.
Between Lippespringe and Detmold stand
the Extern-shin, live blocks of stone rising
out of the ground like gigantic teeth. The
situation is particularly picturesque, and is
a favorite resort of the citizens of Detmold.
Detmold, or Lippe-Detmold, capital of the
principality, contains 7000 inhabitants. It
is a very pretty and agreeable town, and the
residence of the Prince of Lippe-Detmold,
who is very rich, owning nearly the whole
of the principality. The Palace is the
principal building, and is surrounded by
handsome gardens.
A visit should be made to the prince's
stables, called the Marstall, where some
seventy horses of the famous Senner breed
may be seen. They are of Arabian origin,
and are allowed to run wild in the Senner
Wald, where the prince has a breeding es-
tablishment (Lopshorn), about five miles
from Detmold.]
Passing the stations Salzkotten, where
there are salt-works, and Lippstaclt, a town
of 7500 inhabitants, where there are two fine
churches,
Soest is reached: this antiquated town
contains 12,000 inhabitants. Hotels, Over-
weg and Vossinnkel. It was a free impe-
rial city belonging to the Hanseatic League,
and in 1447 successfully withstood a famous
siege of 60,000 men under the Archbishop
of Cologne. It has several remarkable
old churches which deserve to be visited,
especially the Cathedral, Waisen-Kirche,
and Thomas-Kirche.
[Near Hagau the Ruhr-Sitg railway
branches off to the left, distant 2 h. 80 m.
from Sieffen, passing Limburg, a town of
4000 inhabitants. Situated in a very pict-
uresque position is the chateau of the
Prince of Bentheim-Tecklenbourg-Rheda.
Also in the distance are seen the ruins of
the Hohen-Syburg Castle, the residence of
Witikind, the last duke of the Saxons,
who was here conquered by Charlemagne.
From Limburg a small branch road runs
to Iserlohn, a manufacturing town of con-
594
siderable importance, containing 16,000
inhabitant?, devoted to the manufacture of
steam-engines, brass-ware, pins, needles,
wire, paper, etc.
About one and a half miles from the
station of Letmathe, near the railway, is the
highly interesting Dechenhohle, a cavern
discovered in 1868. Cards of admission ( J
mark) can be procured at the station, whence
the visitor proceeds to the Griinc, where
there is a small hotel. A foot-path leads
to the entrance of the cave, which has been
explored about four miles ; visitors gener-
ally visit only the Oryelgrotte, Nixengrotte,
Alhambra, and Vorhalle. The Nixengrotte
is considered one of the most magnificent
stalactite grottoes known. A beautiful il-
lumination is given at a cost of ten marks.
A very peculiar effect is produced by the
ignition of magnesium wi.e, which is sold
to the visitor.
There is another cave close by called
the Grurmannshiihle, where numerous re-
mains of animals have been discovered.
Siegen, an ancient town of 7260 inhabit-
ants, has now become the centre of the iron
traffic of the district. It contains two cas-
tles of the Princes of Nassau-Siegen. The
title became extinct in 1743. The lower
castle contains a monument of Prince Mau-
rice of Orange. It has recently been as-
certained that Siegen, and not Cologne, has
the honor of being the birthplace of Ru-
bens in 1577.]
. Schrcelm. Hotel, RosenJcranz. A busy
town of 6000 inhabitants, and considered
as marking the limits between the Franks
and Saxons. About a mile from the town
there is a large stalactite cavern, called the
Klutert. Near Gavehberg, a short distance
from Schwelm, Count Frederick of Isen-
burg murdered his cousin, Englebert, arch-
bishop of Cologne, on his way back from
the Diet of Knights at Soest, before which
body the count had been called to answer
for certain misconduct. He was appre-
hended a year later, and broken on the
wheel at Cologne.
Elberfeld and Barmen, two towns which
are connected by one long street, contain
together 146,500 inhabitants. Hotel, Wie-
denhnf at Elberfeld, and Vogler, near the
station, at Barmen. They are purely man-
ufacturing places, densely populated, pro.
ducing cotton, silk, ribbons, iron, cutlery,
etc.
SPANDAU.
[THE EMPIRE OP' GERMANY.]
HAMBURG.
A visit should be made to the Eitsenhohe.
a round tower on the top of the hill of
JIaardt. It is surrounded by pleasure-
gardens. There is a statue to St. Suitbcr-
tus, the first preacher of the Gospel here.
BOUTE Xo. 147.
Berlin to Hamburg and Schleswig, via
Wittenberg, Hayenow, and Euchen. Time
(express), 4f h.; ordinary trains, 5 h. 17
m., and 6 h. Fare, tirst class, '2o marks;
second class, 17 marks 20 pf. (sleeping-
car, 11 P.M., 8 marks).
Three miles after leaving Berlin the
railway crosses the Spree near the Char-
lotten gardens, and in twenty minutes
reaches Spandau, a strong fortress of the
second class, containing 17,500 inhabit-
ants. Hotel, Adler. The principal object
of attraction is the church of St. Nicholas,
which contains several handsome monu-
ments. The present Penitentiary was for-
merly the palace of the Brandenburg
Electors.
A new foundry for the manufacture of
cannon has lately been established here.
Ten miles east of Friesach is the battle-
field of Feftrbellin. where the Great Elector
of Brandenburg, Frederick William (in
1675\ with five thousand cavalry, van-
quished the Swedes, 11,000 strong. A
monument has been erected to commem-
orate the event.
Zernitz station, whence a diligence runs
daily to \Vittstock. a manufacturing town
of considerable importance, where the
Swedes, in 1G3G, gained a victory over the
imperial troops.
Wittenberg junction. A line from Mag-
deburg here joins the main line. There is
also a line to Hamburg through Luneburg,
which branches off to the left.
Grdbow is a small town in Mecklenburg,
noted for its storehouses of butter, which
is here sold in large quantities at annual
fairs.
r.mltrigsluiit, containing about 4500 in-
habitants. Hotel, N'fimw. It is the sum-
mer residence of the Grand-Duke of Mock-
lenburg-Schwerin, whose palace contains
some very fine pictures, also a collection
of Slavonic antiquities. The palace is sur-
rounded by a line park and garden. His
stables are well rilled with the finest horses
in the country. He pays particular atten-
tion to the improvement of the stock. The
Russian chapel contains the mausoleum
of the Archduchess Helena, who died in
1803.
At Buchen station the line to Lubccl-
diverges. Notice here and at Bergedorf
the peculiar and picturesque costume of
the peasant-women, who are supposed to
be descendants of the Dutch, from having
retained their costume.
Near to Bergedorf are some forests, and
Sachsenicald, presented to Prince Bismarck
bv the emperor.
595
Hamburg,;), free imperial city o f Germany,
situated on the River Elbe, about 75 miles
from its mouth. It contains 410,127 inhab-
itants. The principal hotels are KtreiCt,
the magnificent Hamburger ffqf, Hotel de
1 V Europe, Hotel Moser, and Hotel Germania.
It is the first commercial port of German}'.
! The population is nearly all Lutheran.
Its annual receipts and expenses are about
22,000,000 marks. Its debt 124.654,095
marks. Its total importations in 1873 were
over two thousand million marks=$500,-
000,000. Upward of 5000 vessels annually
enter and quit the harbor, and from 25,000
to 30,000 emigrants embark here annually,
most of them going to the United States.
One of the most successful lines which
cross the Atlantic is the Hamburg Amer-
ican Packet Company, sailing between
Hamburg and New York, and vice versa,
weekly ; also from Havre to New York.
These strong, safe, and powerfully built
steamships leave New York every Thurs-
day at noon, Hamburg every Wednesday
morning, and Havre every Saturday morn-
ing. The ships are all commanded by
men of the highest maritime ability, and
the cuisine does justice to Hamburg, whose
cooks for centuries have been proverbial.
This company also dispatches steamers
from Hamburg and Havre once a month
during the season to Havana and New Or-
leans, and the different West India Islands
every two weeks ; to Panama, all the ports
in the Pacific, Japan, China, etc. It is
one of the most important commercial cities
of the world. Vessels of large size come
595
HAMBURG.
[THE EMPIRE OF GERMANY.]
LUBECK.
quite up to the town, in front cf which the
river is divided into several channels by
numerous small and exceedingly fertile
islands. The older portion of Hamburg
was badly built, and consisted of narrow
and dirty streets, but in 1842 sixty-one
streets and 1747 houses were destroyed by
fire, and many important improvements
were made in the process of rebuilding.
The business portion of the city is really
very magnificent, but there are few public
buildings deserving of special note.
The Exchange here is a very beautiful
building. It wa a finished in 1841. One j
of the most interesting sights is to look
down from the galleries during change
and watch the excitement depicted on the
faces of 1 from 4000 to 5000 merchants, i
Some of the principal churches were de- i
stroyed by the conflagration of 1842, and j
have since been replaced by modern edi-
fices. There is an elegant Jewish temple,
besides several synagogues. The Gym-
nasium, a modern structure, possesses a
library of 200,000 volumes, with a museum.
The walls and various fortifications have
been converted into boulevards and gar-
dens, which extend nearly around the town.
The church of St. Peter's is the most an- ;
cient in the city, having been built in the
12th century, but St. Michael's is the most j
magnificent; it has a tower 460 feet high,
which is ascended by 600 steps. It con- j
tains an organ with 5GOO pipes, considered
one of the finest in German}'. The church
is capable of holding 6000 people. St.
Nicholas's, finished all but the tower in
1863, is built in the rich Gothic style of the
13th century.
The literary and charitable institutions
of Hamburg are very numerous. The
Orphan Asylum and the Great Hospital, ca-
pable of containing 5000 inmates, deserve
a visit. Its trade embraces every article
of German commerce, both in the way of
import and export, and the Elbe is the
great channel by which these commodities
are conveyed. It has likewise considera-
ble manufactures. The principal branches
of industrj-, in this respect, are sugar refin-
ing, brewing, and distilling, calico-print-
ing, dyeing, hat -making, silk and velvet
weaving, and the making of snuff and to-
bacco. The natives of Hamburg are fa-
mous for their hospitality, and persons vis-
iting the city, properly introduced, receive
596
the very best of attention from her mer-
chants. It is customary to fee the serv-
ants in private houses where, you dine;
they generally expect 50 cents from every
visitor. The city is subject to inundations
from the Elbe, which often rises twenty
feet, filling the cellars of houses bordering
on the river, the tenants of which make
arrangements for occupying the upper
floors. The suburbs of Hamburg are very
beautiful. The famous fortifications have
been converted into handsome promenades,
and the Alter and Ntuer Jungfernstieg, with
the Alsterdamm, are most beautiful. A
visit should be made to the Zoological Gar-
dens, Botanic Gardens, Water-works, and
Cemeteries. Flower-gardens, tea-gardens,
tombs, and monuments appear in every di-
rection. The Stadt- Theater, one of the
finest in Germany, should be visited. It
is not open during the three summer
months. The Thalia-Theater is devoted
to comic performances. The public ball-
rooms are much visited by the middle
classes. Carriages, the single course, J
mark ; by the hour, 1 J marks.
[An excursion should be made to the an-
cient and picturesque city of Lubeck. Time,
1 h. 20 m. Fare, first class, 5 m. 10 pf. ; sec-
ond class, 3 m. 80 pf. Lubeck is a free city of
Germany, and contains about 49,183 inhab-
itants. Its whole territory contains about
52,158. Hotels, Stadt Hamburg and Duff-
ke's Hotel. Its accounts are made in marks
and schillings, the same as in Hamburg.
Lubeck has considerable transit trade, but
no longer enjoys its ancient commercial
importance, having never recovered from
its destruction by the French troops in
1806. Blucher, after the defeat of the
battle of Jena, threw himself into this
town, much against the desire of the citi-
zens. He was hotly pursued by 70,000
French troops under the command of Mu-
rat, Soult, and Bernadotte, who carried the
town by storm. It was then committed
to the mercies of the French soldiers for
three days.
Lubeck was the smallest of the three
Hanseatic towns of the German Empire ;
by edict of the Emperor Frederick II., in
1226, and during a long period of prosper-
ity, it was the seat of government of tho
League, and its great prosperity only com-
menced to decay about the middle of tho
16th century. It now remains one of the
Lt'BECK.
[THE EMPIRE OF GERMANY.]
LCBECK.
best examples of singular antiquity in its
churches and houses.
The Hanseatie League, of which Lubcck
was one of the capitals, derives its name
from '' Hansa," an association, and was a
confederation of Northern German towns
for the purpose of protecting their com-
merce from the freebooters. It originated
in the 12th century by an alliance between
Lubeck and Hamburg, and gradually in-
creased until it numbered eighty -live
towns. It was divided into four sections,
the capitals of each being Lubeck, Dantzic,
Brunswick, and Cologne. Their power
was once so great that they frequently de-
clared war against Denmark and Sweden.
The League was dissolved after the Thirty-
years' War, and Lubeck, Hamburg, and
Bremen are the only Hanseatic towns left.
The city was formerly surrounded by walls
and bastions, which have been leveled and
converted into public walks. It is still
entered, however, by four ancient gates.
Many of the buildings present a highly
picturesque appearance, finely decorated
with high roofs and gable-ends. Sir God-
frey Kneller and the brothers Van Ostade
were born in Lubeck.
The IIoktein-Thor, an isolated part of
the fortifications, dates from the 15th cen-
tury. It has been recently restored. The
Rnthkauf, completed in 1517, is situated in
the market-place, and is constructed of red
and black glazed bricks, surmounted by
five pinnacles. Here the members of the
Hanseatic League held their meetings and
signed their treaties with foreign embassa-
dors. Fail not to visit the Rathskeller
(144;$), which has been converted into a res-
taurant (wine and oysters, but no beer).
The ^[ariejik'irche is very beautiful. It
was built in the early part of the 14th cen-
tury, and contains some fine pictures by
Overbeck, who is a native of Lubeck. The
principal object of attraction, however, is
the clock standing behind the high altar.
At 12 o'clock figures of the seven electors
p-i*s 1 1. -fore a statue of the emperor, each
bowing as it passes. The church was con-
structed of brick, in the Gothic style; the
nave is very hi^'h, but no part of it seems
at the present (1*7<>) to be perpendicular.
The picture called the Dance of Death is in
a closed chapel, which the custodian will
open. It is attributed to Holbein. No-
tice the Mass of St. Gregory, in the chapel
of the Bergenfahrer : the stained glass is
very fine ; it was executed in 1436.
The Cathedral, founded by Henry the
Lion in 117:!. was completed in 1334. Its
towers are 410 feet high. The side chapels
contain numerous monuments of the old
merchant princes, bishops, canons, etc.
The wood-carving of the^creen is admira-
bly executed. The elegant railing around
the pulpit is attributed to the devil ! What
object his satanic majesty had in produc-
ing such a work the custodian does not
explain.
In the Greveraden-Capelle are the finest
pictures in Lubeck ; they are attributed to
Memling. They are in the form of a trip-
tych, or altar-piece in three compartments ;
the middle one affixed to the wall, and the
other two folding on this. On the outside
shutters is the Annunciation, o.: the inner
shutters Saints Blasius, ^Egidius with the
deer, John the Baptist, and Jerome with the
lion. In the interior is the history of the
Passion, in three compartments and twenty-
three scenes, from the Mount of Olives to
the Ascension, the Crucifixion forming the
grand central scene.
In the Church of St. Catharine is a col-
lection of Lubeck antiquities.
The Hospital zum Heiligengeist, a fine
building, dates from the 13th century. It
is an admirably conducted institution.
The Casino, 1GO Beckergrube, is open to
strangers. The wooden tower on the ram-
parts, called Chimborasso, is an admirable
point from which to obtain a fine view of
the town and harbor.
Steamers to Travemunde, distance by
the Trave 9i miles, twice each day. This
was the former port of Lubeck, and is now
a watering - place. Hotels, Kurhaus and
Steamers three times each week
to Copenhagen (see Vol. III.) in 15 hours ;
to Christiania in 52 hours ; to Stockholm in
50 hours, twice a week ; and to St Peters-
burg weekly, in 60 hours.]
In addition to the Hamburg American
Packet Company's steamers mentioned
above, there are steamers leaving Hamburg
for Antwerp weekly in 40 hours ; for Am-
sterdam twice a week, in 35 hours ; for
Hull four times a week, in 40 hours ; for
Heligoland three times a week, in 6 h. 30
m. ; for London five times a week, in 45
hours; for New York twice a week.
[An excursion should be made from
597
HELIGOLAND.
[THE EMPIRE OF GERMANY.]
SCHLESWIG.
Hamburg to Heligoland, if here during the
months of July or August, or from the
middle of June to the middle of September,
which is nearly the length of the season.
Steamers leave several times a week, and
make the trip in from six to eight hours.
Fare, 16 marks ; return tickets, 26 marks.
Passing the t<iwn and fortress of Stade,
which is seen on the left, and which is
connected with the Elbe by a canal, is seen
near the open sea Cuihaveti, much fre-
quented by the Hamburgers as .1 bathing-
place. Hotels, Belvidere and Bellevue. The
sea-passage is only of three or four hours'
duration.
Heligoland is a small island, about one
mile long arrl one third broad. It was
ceded by Schleswig to Great Britain in
1807, and still remains in possession of
that country. The permanent population
is 3000, but during the bathing season there
are 1500 more persons on the island. The
principal hotels are Stadt London and Ho-
tel Queen of England. These are both in
the Oberland, or upper town ; there are
several others of poorer character in the
Unterland, or lower town.
A short distance from the principal isl-
and is a small sand-island called the Dune,
where the bathing takes place, in the cen-
tre of which is a pavilion ; on one side
the gentlemen batho, on the other the
ladies.
Several times during the bathing season
there are illuminations of the rocks and
grottoes, which are very pretty. There
are numerous row and sailing boats for hire.
Steamers run three times a week to Bre-
merhaven in connection with the railway
to Bremen. Time, 4 hours; fare, 12 marks.]
Hamburg to Altona time, 25 minutes
whence there is a train to Schleswig four
times each day.
The traveler who objects to a sea- voyage
to Copenhagen can go the whole distance
by rail through Schleswig-Holstein, Jut-
land, and Ftihnen time, 14 hours; or to
Stockholm by- the same route in 38 hours.
A Itona Bahnhofs - Hotel population,
75,000, finely situated on the north bank
of the Elbe, surrounded by handsome villas
and gardens. Altona is a free port, but
inferior to Hamburg in business and ex-
citement. The town was entirely burned
by the Swedes in 1713, consequently there
are no relics of antiquity.
598
Altona to Schleswig. Time, 2 h. 52 m. ;
fare, first class, 9 marks 12 pf. (Hamburg).
Altona to Nyborg. Time, 10 h. 30 m.
Altona to Copenhagen, by rail all the
way with the exception of a short distance
between the islands of Fiilmen and Seeland.
Time, 17 h. 45 m. ; fare, first class, 45 marks
(German) ; second class, 35 marks 1 pf.
Hamburg to Cupt-nhagen, ria Kiel. First
class, 30| marks; time, 12i hours.
Hamburg to Vienna, vi>i Leipzig and
Dresden (sleeping-car), see Route 186.
Altona to Kiel. Time, 2 h. 25 m. ; fare,
first class, 8 marks 50 pf.
Neumumter junction is reached in 1 h.
4 m. from Altona. This is a town of con-
siderable extent, containing nearly 10,000
inhabitants, principally devoted to the man-
ufacture of cloth. Here lines branch off
to Kiel and Neustadt, the main line to Jut-
land continuing directly north (for Kiel,
see Vol. IK.).
Rendsburg. Hotel, Stadt Hamburg. This
is a fortified place of 12,000 inhabitants,
built on the two banks of the Eider, which
here separates the duchies of Holstein and
Schleswig. The Eider falls into the North
Sea at Tonning, and is connected with the
Baltic by a canal.
As Schleswig is approached, the great
beauty and natural strength of the position
is at once apparent. The Danewerk, an
intrenchment which formerly defended the
Danish position, extends from the mouth
of the Schlei to Frederieksstadt, a distance
of forty -six miles. The intrenchments
have been entirely leveled since the war
with Denmark in 1864, the Danish force at
that time not being capable of defending
them against the Prussians and Austri-
an s.
Schlesitig. Hotels, Stadt Hamburg and
Raven. The town contains 13,600 inhab-
itants, and was founded in the early part of
the 10th century. It was formerly the
residence of the Dukes of Schleswig, but
its castle of Gottorp is now the residence
of the commander of the forces in Schles-
wig-Holstein, and the question is still an
open one whether the province will revert
back to Denmark or be retained by Prus-
sia. There is nothing of importance to
detain the traveler, if the celebrated altar-
piece of the cathedral be excepted. This
is a work in carved oak, by Brugrjemann,
and represents a history of the Passion in
[THE EMPIRE OF GERMANY.]
Fl-KX9BURG.
fourteen compartments. It was formerly I
in the possession of the monks of IJonles-
bolm, who, it is said, deprived the artist of !
his sight to render him incapable of ever
again executing so fine a work. The sit-
uation of Schleswig is very beautiful, and
the Erdburenburg might be visited for the
purpose of securing a most charming view.
The MDvenburij, a small island in the vi-
cinity of the town, is densely covered with
white sea-gulls the entire summer. They
j'oini' regularly in March, and remain un-
til cold weather, covering the ground like
snow. They are shot in July, when the
population take part in the grand battue.
A diligence runs daily to Eckernfiirde and
Borby, a small watering-place, and steam-
ers twice a day to Cappeln, a beautiful
jihice on the banks of the Schlei.
Parsing Lubeck, a small, quiet port on the
North Sea, where there is a large oyster
park, Flensbury is reached. Hotels, Jttisch
and ti/ii'tt Hiimftury. This is a nourishing
town of -2:>,(IUU inhabitants, beautifully sit- ;
uated on the Flensburg Fjord. There is an
exquisite view from the eminence called '
the Bellevue, where your guide will point
out the various battle-fields in the vicinity.
The village of Diippel is about thirteen i
miles from Flenshurg; the intrenchments !
of this town were carried by storm, April 18,
1864. This was considered the most brill-
iant achievement of the Prussians during
the Danish war. The " Lion of Flensburg,"
placed in the Cemetery to commemorate
the victory of the Danes at Idstedt, was
carried off to Berlin in 1864.
Opposite the town of Diippel is the isl-
and of A Isen, which contains 22,500 inhab-
itants. It is connected with the mainland
by a bridge of boats, and has a pleasant
little capital called Sonderburg, with 6000
inhabitants. Hotel, Stadt Hamburg.
At Woyens there is a branch line in
twenty-live minutes to Hadersleben, a town
of 8000 inhabitants.
Vamdrup is the frontier Danish town,
and the seat of the custom-house, where
baggage is examined.
At Kn/iliny there are the ruins of a fine
old castle ; but at Frettericia, where travel-
ers cross the Little Belt to Strifi, there is
nothing to be seen but the monument
erected by the Danes to commemorate the
victory over the Schleswig-Holsteiners in
1849.
SCHWERIN,
The line now crosses the fertile island
of I-'uhni'ii, ;m<l passes through its capital,
Odense (where in the church of Kt. Cunutt
are the tombs of kings John and Christian
II.), to the station \yborg, whence by
steamer to Korsoor, across the Great Belt,
and by rail to Copenhagen, in 3 h. 30 m.
(See Route 116, Vol. III.).
ROUTE No. 148.
Hamburg- to Slralsund, via Lubeck or
Schwerin and Rostock. Time 7 and 9 hours
to R '.istock. Fare, first class, bl marks.
From Rostock to Stralsund by diligence in
10 hours.
Lubeck is described in Route 147 (see
Index).
Lubeck to Schwerin in 2 h. 15 m. ; fare, 7
marks. If going to Hagenow, change cars
at this junction.
Schwerin, capital of the grand-duchy of
Mecklenburg-Schwerin, contains 25,000 in-
habitants. Principal hotels, Du Word and
Stern's. It is situated on the Lake of
Schwerin, and the modern portion of the
town is quite pretty.
The Cathedral, which dates from the
middle of the 14th century, is in the finest
Baltic-Gothic style, and has recently been
restored. The chapel of the Sacred Blood,
the burial-place of the ducal family, is very
fine ; the paintings and stained-glass win-
dows are by Cornelius. There is a beauti-
ful bronze monument of the Duchess He-
lena.
The Schloss, or grand-ducal palace, is
erected on an island in Lake Schwerin. It
is surrounded with handsome gardens,
which serve as a public promenade. The
palace is an imposing building, four stories
high, and includes a church, armory, etc.
The Picture-gallery is situated in the
Alexandrinenstrasse. There are nearly
eight hundred pictures, principally of the
French and Dutch schools.
The Antiquiirittm contains a fine collec-
tion of prehistoric remains, arranged by
the Mecklenburg Archaeological Society.
Near the Theater is a bronze statue to
599
STKALSUXD.
[THE EMPIRE OF GERMANY.]
RCGEN.
Paul Frederick, erected in 1849. There is
also an obelisk in granite in the palace
gardens to the memory of the Mecklen-
burg soldiers who fell in the revolution of
1348. The principal buildings arc an ar-
senal, ducal stables, and artillery bar-
racks.
At the Kleinen junction there is a branch
line which leads in half an hour to Wis-
mar, a Baltic sea-port, containing 13,2.00
inhabitants. Hotel, Stadt Hamburg. There
are several churches of no particular im-
portance. The Furstenhof is one of the
former residences of the Grand-Duke of
Mecklenburg ; the building is now used
for municipal purposes.
Passing Kleinen, Blankenburg, and But-
zow, near which is the large penitentiary
of Dreibergen ; whence to Rostock in 50 min-
utes. This is the most populous town in
the duchy, situated on the River Warnow,
and contains 32,000 inhabitants. Hotels,
Stadt Russia and Stadt Hamburg. It pos-
sesses the largest commercial trade in the
Baltic.
The Marienkirche is a fine edifice of the
13th century. A stone in the church marks
the spot where the learned Swedish embas-
sador Grotius was buried. He died here
on his way to the French court.
The Rathhaus is surmounted with seven
pinnacles, and is a most interesting speci-
men of architecture. Rostock is the birth-
place of General Blucher, of Waterloo no-
toriety. The house is shown where he
was born in 1742. Blucher crossed the
Rhine at Caub on New-year's-da}-, 1814,
in his 72d year, and defeated Napoleon
at La Rothiere on February 1st, and on
March 31st carried Montmartre at Paris
by storm. He was there created Marshal
and Prince of Wahlstadt by the King of
Prussia. A bronze statue is placed in the
square named after him Bliicherplatz.
There is a steamer every hour during
the season to Warnemiinde, a watering-place
at the mouth of the Warnow. Schnellpost
daily to Str.ilsund in 10 hours.
Stralfund. Hotels, Giebel and Jln/itilii-
burff. This important town, a fortress of
the second class, is entirely surrounded by
water, and contains 26,731 inhabitants
nearly one thousand less than it did ten
years ago. It is situated on the Stnila-
sund, a strait which separates the island of
Rugen from the mainland, and is onlv ap-
600
preached by three bridges. A stone built
into the wall near the Frankenthor bears
this inscription : " Dec. 22, 1715, Sweden's
king, Charles XII., had here his usual
night- quarters when Stralsund was be-
sieged by three kings, Prussia, Poland, and
Denmark."
The fortified island of Diinholni. about
one third of a mile in diameter, rises about
1000 feet above the Ittijlrltahn, and con-
tains the Prussian marine depot, with a
harbor for gun-boats, magazines, etc.
Stralsund was founded at the commence-
ment of the 13th century, and was at one
time one of the most important towns of
the Hanseatic League. In 1648 it was
awarded to Sweden by the Peace of West-
phalia. At the Treaty of Paris, in 1815,
it was adjudged to Prussia.
The Rathhaus, with its seven pinnacles,
is a rather striking object of antiquity. It
contains a museum and a library. The
churches of St. Nicholas and St. Mary are
interesting edifices, but contain nothing of
importance. A fine view of the town, har-
bor, and surroundings may be had from the
tower of the latter.
In 1628 Wallenstein swore to take the
city of Stralsund, " though it were fastened
by chains to heaven." His boast, how-
ever, was never destined to be fulfilled, as
he was obliged to raise the siege with a
loss of twelve thousand men.
Major Schill, a distinguished Prussian
officer of Hussars, who took up arms in
1808 in the hope of freeing Germany from
the French, retreated with his regiment to
Stralsund, and was killed in the street in
attempting a sortie. The spot where he
fell is indicated by a stone in the street
opposite No. 67 Fahrstrasse.
Steamers three times each week in the
summer to Malmo, in Sweden, in eight
hours, thence by steamer or rail to Copen-
hagen.
Stralsund to Berlin, 6J h. ; fare, 18 m.
Ferry across the strait in ten minutes to
Rugen, the largest island belonging to Ger-
many. It is separated only by the narrow
strait of GeUen from Pomerania, and is in-
cluded in that province. From 1648 to l*l:
it belonged to Sweden, at which time it
was ceded to Prussia. It contains 440
square miles, and abounds in romantic
scenerj-. Its sea-bathing resorts are nu-
merous, and it is much frequented by
PCTBUS.
[THE EMPIRE OF GERMANY.]
BREMEN.
visitors from all parts of Northern Ger- '
many.
I'utlus is one of the principal places on
tlic islami. and a noted watering- placa^
founded by the proprietor, the Prince of
Putbus. Hotels. HfV-iVm and //. d<' Xnl.
Bergen. Hotel, l'r'n,z ron J'reussen. This
is the principal town, and contains 3600 in-
habitants. A quarter of an hour from
Bergen is Rugard, nearly 500 feet above the
level of the sea, from whence there is a
magnificent view.
'xnkammer is the finest point on the
bland, and on Sundays and holidays the
last arrival cnn hardly ever secure accom-
modation. Here the rugged chalk prom-
ontorv rises 400 feet perpendicularly from
the sea. A staircase of six hundred steps
leads from the shore to the summit, which
is called the Konifjsgtuhl, it being the spot
whence Charles XII. of Sweden witnessed
a naval contest between the Danes and
. Hod-hot charcoal is thrown down
from the cliff, and illuminations of Bengal
lights frequently take place for the amuse-
ment of the visitors.
Diligences run in different directions be-
tween the most prominent places on the
island.
Two-horse carriages cost about 12 marks
per day.
ROUTE No. 150.
Berlin to firemen. Time, G h. 40 m. ;
faro, first class, 30 i marks; second class,
22 marks 70 pf.
Berlin to Stendal, 1 h. 34 in. (See Route
145).
At Ulaen junction, two hours from Sten-
dal, there are some immense blocks of
stone covered with a peculiar roof, sup-
posed to be of Druidical origin. The line
from Hanover to Bremen hen; crosses the
track. The lino now follows the River
Weser and arrives at
Bremen. Population, s:V200. Hotels,
nillm:in's J/iittl, a first-class house on the
iest part of the Quai. lately completely
novated by the proprietors. Mcs>i>. Hill-
and Eberbach. Bremen was former-
ly an independent and free city of the
empire, and only second to Hamburg as
of German commerce. It was
joined to Prussia in IxtiT, and is now
garrisoned by troops of the German Em-
pire. The greater number of German
emigrants for America embark at this
port. It is built on both banks of the
SVeser, about 40 miles above the mouth
of the river, and its many well-preserved
buildings of the Middle Ages convey some
idea of the former importance of the city.
Bremen is principally indebted for its great
commercial success to the construction of
its port orharbor, called Bremerhofen, which
was opened in 1830 : it now contains a popu-
lation of 11,000 inhabitants, and is rapidly
gaining in importance. There is an Au-
irund' r< : r Hints, erected in 1849, capable of
receiving three thousand departing emi-
grants, and feeding double that number
from its kitchen. There are several good
hotels : Beerman and Stein/toff". A visit
should be made to one of the magnificent
steamers of the \orih Germ in Lloyd Com-
pany, some of which are always in port.
This company, which runs steamers twice a
week to New York, stopping at Southamp-
ton, has the finest reputation in the world
for the manner in which their splendid fleet
is conducted. Tickets to visit the ships may
be procured at the office of the company.
The fortifications of the city having been
destroyed, the grounds on which they stood
have been laid out as public gardens, with
rivulets and sheltered walks. It lias a num-
ber of manufactures, the principal of which
are those of snuff and cigars the manufac-
tories of the latter are the largest in the
world- besides numerous distilleries and
breweries, linen and woolen factories. sugar
refineries, tanneries, soap and oil works. It
exports large quantities of linen and wool-
en goods, provisions, and grain. The sit-
uation of Bremen renders her the prin-
cipal emporium of Hanover, Brunswick.
Hesse, and other countries trarersed by
the Weser, in consequence of which she
has a large and increasing trade. The
city is governed by a senate, called /-/<
\Viithdt (''The Wisdom"). The princi-
pal buildings arc. the Cnthfdra 1 , built in
lliiO. The interior has been restored and
fitted up for a Protestant congregation.
Its organ is one of the finest in Germany.
The pulpit was presented by Queen (Jims'
601
BREMEN.
[THE EMPIRE OF GERMANY.]
OLDENBURG.
tina of Sweden. Notice the stained-glass
portraits of Luther and Melanchthon, exe-
cuted at Nuremberg. The Bleikeller un-
der the cathedral possesses the peculiar
property of preventing decomposition, and
contains several old mummies, some over
four hundred years old. The Museum is
situated a little north of the cathedral on
the same Platz, and contains a good nat-
ural-history collection and an ethnographic
collection; used also as a club. The
church of St. Ansgar has a spire 325 feet in
height. The new Town-hall, former!}' the
archiepiscopal palace, is a building of the
same elaborate character as the town halls
of Bruges and other cities of the Nether-
lands. The Exchange, or Neue Borse,
built in the Gothic style between 1864
and 1867. There are six allegorical stat-
ues on the western front ; the grand hall
is most imposing and beautiful!}' deco-
rated ; the Exchange opens at 1 o'clock ;
strangers admitted only with members.
Beneath the old town -hall, built in 1405,
are the famous wine - cellars, containing
vats filled with hock, said to be over 100
years old. In one compartment of this
cellar are some casks called " Rose and the
12 Apostles!" It is said the hock con-
tained in them is 150 years old, and was
formerly sold for two dollars a glass!
On the Djvishaide stands the bronze
statue of Gustavus Adolphus, modeled by
the Swedish sculptor Fogelberg, and cast
in Munich. It was intended for the city
of Gottenburg ; the vessel in which it was
conveyed was wrecked, but it was rescued
by boatmen from Heligoland. The statue
was purchased by some merchants of Bre-
men and presented to the city, and erected
here in 1856.
Close by the statue is the Kiinstlerverein,
or artists' club, a nice Gothic building late-
ly restored. It contains concert-rooms,
restaurant, etc. Strangers must be in-
troduced by a member. There is also a
very good club called the Union, where
strangers can be introduced.
In front of the Rathhaus stands the
Rolandssaule, a colossal figure of a man
in stone, eighteen feet high, erected in
1412. It was the palladium of the city.
In his left hand the figure bears a shield
with the imperial eagle. In his right hand
he holds a drawn sword, and at his feet are
the head and hand of a criminal, referring
602
to the extent of power enjoyed by the mu-
nicipal authorities.
The Kuivtthalle is a large building near
the Osterthor, containing a fair collection
of modern pictures and some sculptures.
The Museum of Natural History should
be visited. The collection of African birds
is superb.
At the Biirgerpark some good concerts
are given ; there is a restaurant, and the
place is much frequented by the citizens.
In the new quarter, to the west, there
are numerous very beautiful residences.
At the market which bears his name a
bronze statue was erected in 1865 to the
poet Korner, by Deneys, a Bremen sculp-
tor. There is also a monument in Carrara
marble erected to Olbers, the astronomer,
who discovered the planets Pallas and
Vesta ; it is by Steinhauser. Gibers was
born and died in Bremen. The prome-
nades in the vicinity of this monument are
very beautiful.
Bremen to Paris. Time, 19 h. 5 m. ;
fare, first class, 78 marks 30 pf.
Bremen to Berlin. Time, 6 h. 45 m. ;
fare, first class, 30 marks 70 pf.
Bremen to New York (North German
Lloyd). Fare, first class, 120.
Bremen to Baltimore (North German
Lloyd). Fare, first class, $100.
Bremen to Xew Orleans (North German
Lloyd). Fare, first class, $135.
Bremen to Hanover. Time, 2 h. 37 m. ;
fare, first class. 10 marks 20 pf. ; second
class, 6 marks 7 g.
Bremen to Cologne, via Osnabruck, in 6
h. 50 m. ; fare, first class, express, 30 marks
20 pf. ; second class, 22 marks 60 pf.
Bremen to \\~ilhelmshafeH. Time, 2 h.
50 m. ; fare, first class, 6 marks 7 pf. ; sec-
ond class, 4 marks 1 pf.
From Bremen an excursion should be
made to Wilhelmshafen and Emden.
From Bremen to Oldenburg, four trains
daily, in one hour. This town is the cap-
ital of the grand - duchy. Principal ho-
tels, De Russie and Erbr/rosshersog. A
quiet and agreeable town, situated on the
Hunte, with 13,400 inhabitants, surround-
ed by handsome promenades, which have
superseded the former ramparts. The
duchy became united to Prussia in 1867.
The principal building is the Grand-
Duke's Palace, which contains a small col-
lection of modern paintings. Close to the
[THE EMPIRE OF GERMANY.]
STETTIN-.
palace is the church of St. Lambert. The
A nifti.-iteum,a. handsome edifice, contains the
picture - gallery of the grand - duke. The
ground floor is used for temporary exhi-
bitions. The gallery is open week days
from 11 to 2, and on Sundays from 12 to 2.
Among the principal pictures, notice No.
KS. the Virgin, by Miirillo; 89, the Infant
Cardinal, liy Velasquez; 82. Venus and Love,
.ind a young Girl, by Paul Veronese : 129.
Peasants, by Tenters ; 107, St. Francis of
A^-i.-i, by Rubens ; 169, Landscape, by
lltmbrandt ; 106, a marine piece, by Back-
llfgMB,
From Oldenburg to Wilhelmshafen the
country is flat and uninteresting, passing
Vurel. a pleasant manufacturing town, near
which i> tlu- sea-bathing place of Dangnst,
quite an inexpensive place, with small Kur-
saal and all the appendages.
\\'ilhrlinsh<ifm. Hotel. Demi*gnflf. This
arsenal, dockyard, and military post is sit-
uated close to the mouth of the Weser, on
the west. The land was purchased from
the Duke of Oldenburg in 1854, and the
port opened in 18(59.
The docks have been excavated from
the low swampy land, and are protected
seaward by granite dikes. There are
three dry-docks for the building and re-
pairing of iron-clads. The immense dock
gates are worthy of attention. The gov-
ernment has already spent forty millions
of marks in the construction of these work?.
The harbor is considered so impregnable
that it has been called the " Sevastopol"
of the North Sea.
During the French war' the Prussian
fleet lay here in perfect safety.
At Oldenburg there is a branch railway
through Leer to Emden. Time, 1 h. 53
m. : fare, 8 marks 40 pf.
Leer. Hotel, Prim von Oraniem. A
small commercial town of 8800 inhabit-
ants, situated in the most fertile part of
tlio (M fries! and, at the confluence of the
Ems and I.eda. The line of Oldenburg
here joins that of Westphalia for Emden,
one of the most animated sea -ports in
Northern Germany. Hotels. Go/dene Sonne.
and Prim von Preussen. Population 13.ni MI.
It was formerly a free city of the empire.
situated on the banks of the Ems. now it
is distant one half hour's walk from that
river. The town is thoroughly Dutch in
its appearance, dikes, canals, etc. It has
suffered considerably from inundations, and
in 1826 the water remained for three months
twelve feet high in its streets.
The Hotel de Ville, a building in the
Renaissance style, contains a good col-
lection of armor and ancient fire-arms.
ROUTE No. 151.
Berlin to Danzig, via Stettin. Time, 11
h. 4 m. ; fare, tirst class, 41 marks 1 pf. ;
second class, 30 marks 7 pf.
Berlin to Danzig, via Cuttrin. Time, 9
h. 50 m. (quickest route); fare, 4L marks.
(See Route No. 152.)
Xeuslftdt, a manufacturing town of 3600
inhabitants, one hour from Berlin. [There
is a branch road eighteen miles to Wriezin,
6400 inhabitants, and situated on a branch
of the Oder.]
Aiir):rmiinde, an old town of 5700 inhab-
itants. A line here branches off to the left,
passing through Pasewalk to Stralsund
(see Route 152).
Stettin. Hotel de Pi-usse, du Xord, and
Deutsches Halts. This is a flourishing
commercial city and first-class fortress.
It contains 76,250 inhabitants, in addition
to a garrison of 6000 men. It came into
possession of the Swedes after the death
of the last Duke f Pomerania in 1637.
In 1720 it was transferred to Prussia by
the Treaty of Stockholm.
It is situated on the left bank of the
Oder, but connected with the suburb Las~
tadia by four bridges.
The quay of the city presents a most
animated appearance, the water being suf-
ficiently deep, 16 feet, for vessels of large
size ; those drawing more water stop at
Xtrirtemiinde, on the island of Usedotn.
Stettin is the capital of the province of
Pomerania, and one of the principal com-
mercial ports of Prussia, being the outlet
for all the manufactures of Silesia, and the
depot for all foreign goods required. Its
imports amount to about 150 millions of
marks, and its exports about 120 millions.
It is largely employed in manufacturing,
refining, and distilling. There are few
603
BELGKAD.
[THE EMPIRE OF GERMANY.]
DANZIG.
curiosities to be seen. The Old Castle, the
former residence of the dukes before they
became extinct, commands the city, and is
now used by the municipal a thorities.
In the Konigsplatz there is a marble
statue of Frederick the Great, by Schadow;
and near the theatre is another of Fred-
erick William III., by Drake.
In the new portion of the town sever-
al fine public buildings have been lately
erected.
The Logengartcn is outside the gates, and
is the principal promenade for the fashion-
able society iu the afternoons.
Stettin was the birthplace of Catharine
the Great of Russia, also of the Rusdan
Empress Maria, wife of Paul.
Between Stettin and the Baltic two isl-
ands are formed by the River Oder Usedom
and Wollin. On the first is situated Sicine-
miinde, the outport of Stettin, an important
place of 7000 inhabitants, with sea-baths j
about a mile distant. The beach is very
fine, and it is much frequented by the cit- !
izens of Stettin. It was on this island that '
Gustavus Adolphus landed, June 24, 1630,
with an army of 17,000 Protestant soldiers.
From Stettin to Danzig there are numer-
ous small towns of very trifling importance ; |
time, 9 h. 5 m. (uninteresting).
Stargard junction, the chief town in
Farther Pomerania, is situated on the river j
Ihna, and contains 17,000 inhabitants.
The line here continues on to the right to
Posen and Breslau. The line to Danzig
turns to the northeast, and at Belgrad, a
town of 5000 inhabitants, there is a branch
line (21 miles) which leads to the sea-port
town of Colbery. Hotel de Prusse. Pop-
ulation 13,500. This town is known by
its courageous defense against the French
for six months, 1806-1807. There is a
very fine Rathhaus, recent!}' erected, before
which is a bronze statue of Frederick Will-
iam III.
The Marienkirche is a five-aisled Gothic
structure, dating from the 14th century.
It is in possession of some remarkable an-
tiquities.
Coslin, a town on the Baltic, nearly three
hours from Stettin. Hotel, Diirre. It
contains 14,000 inhabitants, and is finely
situated at the foot of the Gottenberg, a hill
450 feet high, on the top of which is a mon-
ument to the memory of the Pomeranians
who fell in the war of the allies against the
G04
French in 1813. There is a statue of Fred-
crick William I. in the market-place, erect-
ed in IS-M.
Schlace junction, a town of 4000 inhab-
itants. A branch road turns west to the
sea-bathing place of
It i'< gen tc aide, and to the southeast to
Neu-Stettin,
Stolpe, a town of 14,000 inhabitants (Ho-
tel, Muller),
Lauenburg, Zoppet, and
Danzig. Hotels, Englisches llaus and
Berlin. This is one of the oldest cities of
Germany, a fortress of the first class, and
one of the principal sea-ports of Prussia.
It is situated on two arms of the Vistula,
about five miles above its entrance into the
Gulf of Danzig, and contains, with its gar-
rison of 7000 men, 90,000 inhabitants. It
was a leading member of the Hanseatic
League, and a free city of the empire.
At the second partition of Poland, in 1793,
it was awarded to Prussia. It was stormed
and taken by the French under Marshal
Lefebre in 1807, for which victory Napo-
leon created him Duke of Danzig. The
city is protected on the east by the forts
Bischofsberg and Hagelsberg ; the entrance
to the river by the fortress of Weischsel-
munde ; and the island called the Holm iu
the Vistula is equally fortified.
The Cathedral, or Marienkirche, is one
of the finest ecclesiastical monuments on
the borders of the Baltic. It dates from
the 14th century, and commands the city
like a fortress. It is 330 feet long and 112
wide; the transept, 212, and 93 feet high.
Around its interior are placed fifty chapels,
originally intended as burial-places for the
principal citizens. The high altar is a
Gothic work, executed in 1517, and orna-
mented with beautiful wood-carving repre-
senting the life of the Virgin. Behind this
altar there is a splendid window presented
by Frederick William IV. But the gem
of the church and of the city is the picture
of the "Last Judgment," originally at-
tributed to Van Dyck, but since its restora-
tion to J. Mending. The exterior portraits
are by Vim Eyck and Van der Goes.
According to tradition, this picture was
destined for the Pope, but the vessel on
which it was consigned was taken by pi-
rates on its way from Bruges to Roisie.
The pirate ship was captured by a Danzig
vessel and the picture retaken. It made
DANZIG.
[THE E.MPI1IE OF GERMANY, j
ZDSSOW.
the usual journey to Paris in 1807, but was
returned lifter the Peace. Frederick Will-
i:un III. wished to retain it in Berlin, and
offered the city 120,000 marks for it, but
the offer was refused.
The Langenmarkt and the Langgasse are
the two principal streets, and run the en-
tire length of the town. They are rich in
houses of the most fantastic and beautiful
construction.
The Rathhaus is situated in the Langen-
markt, and is a line example of the archi-
tecture of the 14th centuiV. The interior
has been restored. The Around floors are
devoted to summer and winter saloons of
reunion. The Ri-mpttr g;iliery is used for
the meetings of the municipal council.
Close to the Kathhaus is the Fountain
qfXeptune, cast in Holland in 1633. It is
the work of Adrian de I'ries.
The Artushnf, or Junkerhof, is an edi-
fice of simple exterior, dating from the 16th
century. Here the merchants of the city,
formerly styled " Stadtjunker," united to
transact their business. The great hall on
the ground floor is now the Exchange (hours
11 to 2). It was formerly the place of meet-
ing of the corporations and guilds. It is
decorated in a truly original manner with
pictures, carvings, and armor. The laws
of the merchants, in rhyme, are still hung
up. Among the pictures are a Last Judg-
ment, by A. Mailer, a pupil of Raphael,
and a Madonna, by fitech.
In the centre of the 'iall is a marble
statue of Augustus III. of Poland.
The Ar.<fnu' is situated in the Lang-
gasse, and is an interesting building.
An excursion should be made to Xm-
fithrwas.'ser, the fortified port of Danzig.
It is four miles distant, and steamers leave
ewry hour. Near it are bathing-places,
surrounded by gardens and promenades.
There are numerous other excursions.
Among others that to Jo&amtitberff, from
the top of which a magnificent view may
be enjoyed of the city, harbor, and the dis-
tant coasts.
At Oltrit, five miles from Danzig, at the
foot of the f'ir!.<l>i-rrf. stands the suppressed
('invent of Ollru. The church is a fine
building, around the choir of which hang
portraits of the Kings of Pnhnd and Dukes
of Pomerauia. The Peace l>"tween Sweden
and Poland was signed here in 1660.
I Fahrenheit, the inventor of the thermom-
VOL. II. D
eter, was born in Danzig toward the close
of the 17th century, and died here in 1736.
He perfected the thermometer in 1727,
using mercury instead of spirits of wine,
and forming a scale which is universally
adopted in the United States and Great
Britain.
The bathing- place of Brosen can be
reached in about one hour from Danzig
45 minutes by steamer and 20 by diligence.
Steamers leave Danzig twice a week for
Konigsljcrg, in 18 hours, and for Stettin
weekly, in 27 hours.
Danzig to Berlin. Time, 11 h. 13 m. ;
fare, 41 marks.
Danzig to Stettin. Time, 8 h. 36 m. ;
fare, first class, 32 marks 70 pf.
Danzig to Konigsberg. Time, 4 h. 27 m. ;
fare, first class, 15 marks 50 pf.
ROUTE No. 152.
Stettin to Stralsund, via Pasewalk. Time,
3 h. 35 m. ; fare, first class, 10 marks 90 pf. ;
second class, 7 marks.
Stettin is described in Route 151.
Pasewalk is the junction of the lines to
Stettin, Stralsund, Lubeck, and Schwerin.
Hotels, Stuthmann and Kronprinz. This is
an old town of 8000 inhabitants, retaining
its walls and towers.
Anclam is a small harbor containing 13,-
000 inhabitants, on the river Peine, which
was formerly the line between Prussia and
Sweden. Some of the houses an; fine spec-
imens of the Hanseatic architecture of the
Baltic towns. The tower of the Steinthor
is especially deserving of notice.
The Peinc commences here to be navi-
gable.
Two miles outside the gate may be seen
an ancient watch-tower, erected to protect
the town against the Counts of Schwerin.
Diligences daily in 5 h. 30 m. to the
baths nf Swinemunde. (See Route 151.)
Zitnnfiir, whence a branch line to\\'olyast,
an old commercial town, situated on the
Peine, opposite the island of Usedom. It
contains the ruins of a castle, an ancient
seat of the Dukes of Pomerania.
605
GKEIFSWALDE.
[THE EMPIRE OF GERMANY.]
MARIENBURG.
Greifswalde, a sea-port town of 17,500 in-
habitants. Hotel, Deutsches Haus. It con-
tains a university, founded in 145G, with
about 350 students. There is a monument
in the Universitatsplatz commemorating
the 400th anniversary of the foundation of
this institution. In the vicinity of Markt-
platz are some fine examples of picturesque
gabled houses.
Near Greifswalde are some important
salt-works. The town is connected to the
< , I'i'ifswalder Boden, an arm of the Baltic,
by the small river Hylde, near the mouth
of which are the ruins of the monastery
of Eldena, which was destroyed by the
Swedes.
Steamers daily during the season to
Lauterbach (the Baths of Putbus), on the
island of Riigen. Fare, 5 marks.
Miltzow Station. Diligences daily, dur-
ing the season, to Stahlbrode, thence by
ferry to Gleiwitz and Garz to Putbus.
Stralsund, described in Route 148.
ROUTE No. 153.
Berlin to Kdnigsberg,via Custrin, Schnei-
demiihl, Bromberg, and Marienburg, or vii
Danzig.
Time, 11 h. 48 m. ; fare, first class, 47
marks 20 pf. ; second class, 35 marks 40 pf.
Ordinary trains in 17 h.
This is the mail route, via Berlin, of Paris
and St. Petersburg. Berlin to St. Peters-
burg, in 45 J h. ; fare, 67 m. 20 pf. to Eyat-
kuhnen (frontier, change cars, and customs),
thence 25 roubles 20 cop. Sleeping-car to
Eyatkuhnen (see Route 186, Vol. III.), to
Dirschau, 11.15 P.M. ; fare, 18 marks.
Castrin. Hotel, Kronprinz. This town,
which is a strong fortress of the third class,
is completely surrounded by marshes, at
the confluence of the Warthe and Oder.
It contains 10.500 inhabitants. Frederick
the Great was imprisoned here by his fa-
ther when crown -prince, and was com-
pelled by his imperious father to look on
from a room in the castle while his friend
Lieutenant Von Katte was being behead-
ed, it having been discovered that he in-
tended to assist Frederick in his flight to
London. Six miles north of Custrin Fred-
crick the Great, with 30,000 troops, defeat-
ed the Russian army, 50,000 strong, in 1758.
GOG
Two hours and twenty minutes from Ber-
lin is
Landsberg, a busy town of 18,500 inhab-
itants, situated on the Warthe. Hotel,
i Kdnig von Preussen.
At the station Kreuz the line from Stet-
tin to Posen crosses the line to Konigsberg.
Schneidemuhl junction, the direct line
continues northeast toward Danzig. An-
other road, which makes a detour by Brom-
berg, continues to the east. Four lines in-
tersect at Bromberg. Hotel, Moritz. Al-
though containing 27,000 inhabitants, there
is nothing to detain the visitor. There is
a monument to Frederick the Great, erect-
ed in the market-place in 1861, the town
being indebted to him for connecting the
rivers Brahe and Netze by means of a ca-
!nul.
Dirschau junction (change cars for Dan-
zig) possesses a magnificent railroad bridge
half a mile in length, built at a cost of *2,-
000,000. This town was the birthplace of
Forster, who accompanied Captain Cook in
his second voyage round the world.
Marienburg, an ancient and celebrated
town situated on the River Nogat. It con-
tains 8000 inhabitants. Hotels, KiJtiit/ n,n
Preussen and J/ochmetsler. The town is
particularly noted as being the seat of the
once powerful Teutonic Knights, to whom
this country was ceded in the 13th century
by the King of Poland. These knights,
after a continuous war of fifty years, suc-
ceeded in subduing the pagan and barbar-
ous Prussians who then inhabited the sur-
rounding territory. The Schloss, or Pal-
ace of the Grand-Masters, is an imposing
edifice in the Gothic style, divided into
three portions. The Hochschloss was the
original castle of the order, and dates from
the 13th century. It contains the church
of St. Mary, with the prie-dieux of the
knights and the "golden gate." Beneath
it is the chapel of St. Anna, with the burial-
vault of the grand-masters.
The Mittelschloss was the entrance to the
Hochschloss, and was converted in 1309 into
the residence of the grand-master when the
seat of the order was removed from Venice
to Kiinig^berg. The Hochmeifters-Rentei,
or Hall of the Grand-Master, is forty-one
feet square, and supported by one single
pillar of granite. During the siege, in
1410, the Polish army endeavored to strike
this pillar and overwhelm the knights be-
[THE EMPIRE OF GERMANY.)
KoNIGSBERG.
neath the ruins. A magnificent passage-
way leads to the Ordens-Iientei, or Hall of
the Order, 103 feet long, 50 feet wide, and
30 high. The beautiful modern stained
windows illustrate subjects connected with
the order.
The castle and town were surrendered
to the Poles in 1457, after having been in
-ion of the order 148 years, and gov-
erned by 17 grand-master-.
A beautiful view may be obtained from
thi- summit of the tower.
ElLiiuj. Hotels, Stadt Jierlin and Konigl.
HI >f. An uninteresting commercial town
on the Kiver Elbing. Nothing to detain
the traveler.
From Elbing to the village of Frauen-
finrr/, the last residence of Copernicus, in
2^ hours by steamer. It is the residence
of the Bishop of Ermcland, whose palace
stands on a height above the town. The
Cathedral is a handsome structure, built in
the Gothic style, and fortified with towers
and walls.
K-.'i ';/.<' i-ff. Hi'ilfl de Prusse, Skibbe's
UC.ti '. and Deutsches Ilaus. This interesting
city, the fourth in Prussia in point of pop-
ulation, coining after Berlin, Breslau, and
( 'cilogne, contains 119,1'27 inhabitants. It
is >itiiated on lioth banks of the Kiver Pre-
gel, 4j miles from its mouth. It is a for-
trc-s of the first class, strongly protected
by forts, and keeps a garrison of 6680 men.
It was once the capital of Prussia proper,
and for a long time the residence of the
Dukes of Brandenburg. Itowes its founda-
tion to the existence of a fortress belonging
to the Teutonic Order, built on an eminence,
and called Kiinigsbcrg, or "Hill of the
King." in honor of Ottokar, king of Bohe-
mia. After the taking of the castle of Ma-
rienburg, Kc'inigsberg became the residence
of the Grand-Master of the Teutonic Order.
The tichloss. or Palace, is an ordinary
looking building. It was built by Otto-
kar in 1257. It ha^ undergone numerous
changes, and is now used by the municipal
government authorities. It was the resi-
dence of Frederick William III., King of
Prussia, when driven from Berlin by the
army of Napoleon. At the western wing
is the chapel where Frederick III.. Elector
of Brandenburg, placed the crown of Prus-
sia on his own head in 1701. declaring him-
self King of Prussia. The present empe-
ror, William I., did the same in 1861.
Before the eastern entrance of the palace
is a statue of Frederick I., by Schluter.
To the northwest is a handsome monu-
ment, erected in 1864, to the memory of
the celebrated philosopher Kant, who died
here in 1804. It is in bronze, by Rauch.
In front of the palace a handsome post-
office stands ; it is of recent construction ;
and near it is the Altstadtische Kirche,
finished in 1843, by Schinkel.
The Paradeplalz is adorned by the New
University Theatre and an equestrian statue
of Frederick William III., erected in 1851,
by Kiss.
The Cathedral is a Gothic building of the
14th century. It contains numerous mon-
uments of knights and grand-masters. In
the choir is a marble monument of the
Margrave Albert, bearing his effigy.
The Museum of the city contains a col-
lection of modern paintings. It is open to
the public from 11 to 2 on Sundays, and
from 11 to 1 on Wednesdays, and every
day to travelers on payment of 1 mark.
Notice No. 273, by Piloty, the Abbess of
Frauen-Chiemsee defending her convent
against bandits ; also 253, by Lessiny, a
monk praying near the coffin of the em-
peror Henry IV.; 262, Cmphavs<n, Wel-
lington and Blucher at Belle-Alliance.
In the same street is the Library, contain-
ing 160,000 volumes.
Near the Observatory, erected in 1813,
I are the Zoological and Botanical Gardens.
The exportation of amber was formerly
the most important product of this city,
and is still one of its chief exports. It is
found along the north coast of Prussia.
After severe storms it is thrown on the
coast with the sea-weed, having been torn
up from its bed by the severe storms that
occur in the Baltic. It is mostly export-
ed to the East, and many persons think it
is the product of the Levant. The right
to collect it was formerly one of the priv-
ileges of the grand-masters, who defrayed
tlie expenses of the order with tiie proceeds.
It became afterward a monopoly of the
court. The right is now leased to private
individuals. It is sometimes dug along
the coastal a depth of forty feet, and found
in the formation known as glanconite sand.
The "milky" amber is considered the
most valuable, and is found at the lowest
deptli. Some of it is worth $100 a
pound.
C07
FRANKFORT.
[THE EMPIRE OF GERMANY.]
POSEN.
The monopoly was so strict that ranges
of gallows were erected along the shore to
show the penalty of an infringement of the
law.
About twenty -five miles southeast of
Konigsberg lie the battle-fields of two of
Napoleon I.'s greatest victories. February
8, 1807, he gained a complete victory over
the Russians at Eylau, fighting them in the
snow ; and at Friedlund, June 14, in the
same year, when 25,000 Russians were
killed and 85 pieces of cannon taken.
Steamers leave Konigsberg daily for
Tilsit, in 14 hours ; to Danzig, semi-weekly,
in 18 hours ; to Stettin, semi-weekly, in 35
hours.
Konigsberg to Berlin. Time, 11 h. 32 m. ;
fare, first class, 53 marks 10 pf.
Konigsberg to Danzig. Time, 4 h. 11 m. ;
fare, first class, 15 marks 50 pf.
ROUTE No. 154.
Berlin to Tilsit, via Frankfort-on-the-
Oder, Posen, Thorn, and Inste.rburg . Time,
5 h. 11 m. ; fare, first class, 66 marks ; sec-
ond class, 50 marks
Seven miles from Berlin Kopenick sta-
tion is passed. This is a town of 4000 in-
habitants, situated on an island in the
Spree. Frederick the Great, when crown-
prince, was here tried by court-martial.
Passing the stations of Furstenwalde and
liosengartcn, of no importance, in 1 hour 20
minutes the train reaches Frankfort-on-the-
Oder. Hotels, Deutsches Uaus and Golde-
ner A dler.
This, after Berlin and Potsdam, is the
largest town in the province of Branden-
burg, and contains 43,250 inhabitants. It
is built on both banks of the river ; the
old town on the left bank, and the new on
the right, connected by a wooden bridge,
loaded with heavy stones to prevent its
being carried off when the river is swollen.
Frankfort lost considerable importance by
the removal of its university to Breslau in
1810. Three fairs are held here every
608
year, in March, July, and November, which
are mostly attended by Polish customers.
The principal building in Frankfort is
the Oberkirche, constructed of brick, and
dating from the 14th century. The carved
altar is beautifully embellished with pict-
ures on a gold ground. There is a cande-
labrum, with seven branches, of the 14th
century, said to have been found in the
Oder 300 years ago. Notice a picture at
the south entrance, which represents the
finding of the body of Prince Leopold,
nephew of Frederick the Great, who was
drowned in attempting to rescue a family
from drowning in the Oder during an in-
undation. Notice also the monument be-
yond the bridge in memory of the same
prince.
The Rathhaits, situated on the market-
place, was erected in 1607. There is a
theatre near the railway station.
Three miles east of the town the cele-
brated battle of Kvnersdorf was fought in
1759, on which occasion Frederick the
Great fought the united forces of Austria
and Russia, but was defeated.
Posen, a first-class fortress belonging to
Prussia, is situated at the confluence of the
Crbnia and Warthe. Hotels, de Dresden,
de Rome, and de r Europe.
Up to the year 1296 Posen was the resi-
dence of the Polish kings. In the Middle
Ages it belonged to the Hanseatic League.
It now contains 56,500 inhabitants, not
comprising 7000 soldiers in garrison. In
1815 it became the capital of Prussian Po-
land. The new fortifications, which were
erected in 1828, are well worth a visit.
About half the population is German, and
nearly 12,000 are Jews.
The Catltedral is situated in the poorest
quarter of the city. It contains two bronze
statues of kings of Poland, by Ranch, also
numerous monuments of bishops and no-
bles. There is also a beautiful Golden
Chapel, erected by a society of Polish no-
bles, adorned with paintings and mosaics.
The principal of the ancient edifices is
the Rathhuus, built in the Sclavonic - Ro-
manesque style.
From Posen to Broniberg. Time, 4 h.
30 m. ; fare, first class. 12 marks 20 pf.
From Posen to Breslau. Time, 3 h. 58
m. ; fare, first class, 13 marks 10 pf.
Gnesen. Hotel de Varsovie. An old town
of the former kingdom of Poland. It con-
THORN.
[THK EMPIRE OF GERMANY.]
BKESLAU.
tains 9000 inhabitants. It is said that it
was fniiiiiloil by I.ekh the First of Poland,
on the spot where he found an eagle's
nest, hence the name. It was the seat of
an archbishop from the year 1000 up to
1320.
The C'lthtilrttl, which dates from the close
of the Kith century, contains the tomb of
St. Adalbert, with numerous other monu-
ments of archbishops and canons. The
bronze valves, or folding-doors, contain in
their eighteen compartments subjects from
the history of St. Adalbert, who was the
patron saint of Gnesen, and was martyr-
ed in !I'J7 by the pagan Prussians in his at-
tempts to convert them.
At Inowraclaw junction there is a branch
line of railway to Bromberg, distance 27
miles.
Thorn junction. Hotel, Sans Souci. A
second-class fortress containing 17,000 in-
habitants. This city was founded in 1231
by knights of the Teutonic Order.
The Raihhaus dates from the 14th cen-
tury, and is well worth inspection. There
is a leaning Tower, called the Krumme
Thurm, and a fine old watch-tower.
The church of St. John contains a monu-
ment to Copernicus, who was born here in
1473.
There are junction lines from Thorn to
Cracow, Bromberg, and Warsaw.
ROUTE No. 155.
Stettin to Breslau, via Poien. Time, 13
h. 10 m. ; fare, first class, 30 marks 10 pf.
Stettin is described in Route No. 151.
Arnsirnldi', \\'ronke, and,SV(fcrare small
stations of no importance to the traveler.
Pospii is described in Route No. 154.
Lisstt, a small manufacturing town of
10,500 inhabitants, near which Frederick
the Great, with 30,000 men, defeated the
Austrian army of 90,000.
Riiwicz contains 10,000 inhabitants, and
has large corn and wool markets.
Breslau (in Polish, Wroclaw) is the sec-
ond city in Prussia in point of population,
containing ;7,.">',t8 inhabitants, 50,000 of
whom are Roman Catholics, and 2<i,OiMi
Jews. It contains also a garrison of 8000
soldiers. Principal hotels are Gulisch,
Zedlitz, and Kiber.
The city is situated on both banks of the
Oder, in tho midst of a fertile and finely
cultivated plain. It is of Slavonic origin,
and has been an episcopal see since 1051.
From the time of its foundation until 1KJ3
it belonged to Poland. It afterward be-
came the capital of the independent duchy
of Silesia. After the extinction of the
ducal family it passed to Bohemia. Then,
in 1527, to Austria, from whom it was taken
by Frederick II. and annexed to Prussia.
It was again taken by the Austrians in
1757, and recaptured by Frederick. It
was captured by the French under Van-
damme in 1800. It was here that Fred-
erick William III. published his appeal to
the people which commenced the war of
deliverance in 1813.
The French leveled all the fortifications,
since which time they have been replaced
by beautiful promenades, which separate
the old town from the new suburbs.
The commerce of Breslau consists in
wool, grain, and cloth. In the first of these
it is the most considerable of any city on
the Continent, and wool-markets are held
here semi-annually in June and October,
which are attended by merchants from all
parts of the world.
The Cathedral dates from the l'2th cen-
tury ; it has recently been restored. The
chapel behind the high altar is finely dec-
orated, and contains the effigy of the
founder, Bishop Pretzlaus. The chapel of
St. John contains an altar-piece V>y IMCOS
Cranach, the "Madonna unter Pannen."
There is a monument of Duke Christian
of Holstein, who fell in 1691 fighting
against the Turks. Notice the statues of
Moses and Aaron, by Bruckh<\f.
Kreuzkircke, a fine old brick structure,
dating from the end of the 13th century,
contains the bones of St. Innocent and St.
Benedict ; they are placed on two altars
under glass. In front of the high altar
stands an ancient monument of Duke
Henry IV. of Breslan.
The church of St. Elizabeth, recently re-
stored, is rich in modern stained-glass
windows. Its tower is 3G4 feet in height.
609
BRESLAU.
[THE EMPIRE OF GERMANY.]
CRACOW.
The church of 3fary Magdalene is quite
handsome. Its stained-glass windows were
presented by Frederick William IV.
The Rathhaus, situated in the Grossen
Ring, founded by King John of Bohemia
in the 14th century, was restored in 1862.
It is a fine specimen of mediaeval archi-
tecture. The hall, called the FvretoieQaf,
is where the Silesian princes held their
councils. There are four vaults, support-
ed by a central pillar. The basement of
the Furstensaal should be visited to see its
fine vaulted ceiling. It is now used as a
restaurant.
In front of the Rathhaus stands the
Staupsaule, or "scourging -column," sur-
mounted by a statue bearing a sword and
rod, which recalls the mode of administer-
ing punishment by the authorities.
The western part of the Grossen Ring is
ornamented with two statues, one of Fred-
erick the Great, the other of Frederick
William IV., both by Kiss.
Behind the statues stands the Stadthaus,
a modern structure, finished in 1863. Its
interior is finely decorated, and contains
the Public Library of 300,000 volumes,
also 2000 MSS., and a large collection of
stamps. Open daily from 10 to 2.
The University, transferred from Frank-
fort in 1811, numbers nearly one thousand
students. The building was originally an
imperial palace.
In Blucherplatz there is a colossal statue
of that general, by Ranch.
At the end of the fine street called
Schweidnitz stands the new theatre, erect-
ed in 1873, and the Government House,
both handsome structures.
The new Exchange, finished in 1867, is
decorated with great elegance ; it is open
everj- day from 11 to 1.
From Breslau to Paris. Time, 32 hours ;
fare, first class, 132 marks.
Breslau to Stettin. Time, 13 h. 10 m. ;
fare, first class, 36 marks 9 g.
Breslau to Stargard. Time, 9 h. 20 m. ;
fare, first class, 27 marks.
Breslau to Berlin. Time, 6 h. 35 m. ;
fare, first class, 26 marks.
Breslau to Dzieditz. Time, 7 h. 6 m. ;
fare, first class, 13 marks.
Breslau to Prague. Time, 9 h. 30 m. ;
fare, first class, 30 marks.
610
ROUTE No. 156.
Breslau to Cracow (in Austria). Time,
8 h. 37 m. ; fare, first class, 32 marks 54
pf. ; second class, 16 marks.
Breslau is described in Route No. 155.
Passing Uhlau. on the left bank of the
Oder, and Brleg junction, whence there is a
branch road which leads to Ncisse, a town
containing 19,500 inhabitants. Time, 1 h.
30 ra. ; fare, first class, 4 marks 1 g. A dili-
gence leaves daily during the season for
the water-cure establishment of Grdfen-
berg, in 6 h. 36 in. The town is situated
in Austrian territory.
The line crosses the Xeisse, and arrives
at Oppeln. Hotel, Schwarzer Adler. This
town, which contains 7000 inhabitants,
is the capital of Upper Silesia, and the
residence in former times of the grand-
dukes.
Gogolin station, from which excursions
are made to the Franciscan convent of
Annaberg, about five miles from the sta-
tion. The convent contains an image said
to be miraculous, and the object of great
veneration to numerous pilgrims who visit
it on St. Ann's day.
Kandrzin junction. From this point the
road turns to the east, and the southern
road leads to Vienna. On the opposite
bank of the Oder lies the town and fortress
of Cosel, with 4500 inhabitants.
Gleiiaitz, situated on the Klodnitz, con-
tains 13,000 inhabitants. This is the cen-
tre of the principal iron-works and iron-
mines in Upper Silesia.
Koniffshuite, celebrated for its iron foun-
dries, smelting-works, rolling-mills, etc.
At Kattowitz junction a line continues
north to Warsaw, and a short distance
further the line crosses the Austrian fron-
tier. At Trzebinia junction a line turns
south for Vienna.
Cracow. The last remnant of the great
kingdom of Poland. Since 1846 the capital
of the Austrian province of Upper Galicia.
It contains 43,000 inhabitants, of whom
12,000 are Jews.
The city of Cracow is situated in the
midst of an immense level plain at the con-
fluence of the Vistula and Rudowa, and
when seen from a distance appears to be a
city of great magnificence. It was up to
1766 the city where Poland's kings were
crowned. Then it became the capital of a
Cl'.ACOU'.
[THE EMPIRE OF GERMANY.]
CRACOW.
small republic under the protection of
Russia, Prussia, and Austria. After the
general rising of the populace in 1 ;'. a
new division of Poland took place, when
Cracow was apportioned to Austria, and
became a strong frontier town of that
empire. The interior of the city is poor
arid inanimate churches and barracks,
but little trade, and a poor population.
The space between the old city and the
suburbs, has been transformed into prom-
enades. Hotels, de Russie, de Saxe, and
Londre.
The Schloss, or castle, situated on a hill
called the Mount Wttrel. and strongly for-
tified, was founded by Cashnir the Great
in the 14th century, but only a small por-
tion of the ancient edifice is still existing.
It is a vast assemblage of isolated build-
ings. It was the residence of the Polish
kings up to IfilO, when Sigistnund III.
transferred his court to Warsaw. Down
to 1794 the regalia and treasures of the
crown were kept in the vaults below the
castle. In 1846 it was converted ir.to a
barrack and hospital.
The C-ith'ilral, which adjoins the Schloss,
is the principal object of attraction in Cra-
cow, containing as it does through all its
insurrections and partitions its treasures
intact. It was consecrated in 1359 under
Casimir the Great, and is the place of sep-
ulture for Poland's kings and heroes. The
vault under the church, constructed by
Stanislaus Augustus in 1788, contains the
remains of Poland's three most illustrious
heroes, viz., John Sobitski. who died in
1696; PomittO'rski. who was drowned in
the Elster, near L'ji pzig ; and Thuddens Kos-
ciitszko, the ' Thaddeus of Warsaw," the
adjutant of General Washington, to whom
grateful America raised a monument on
the banks of the Hudson, at West Point,
near his garden, where he used to walk and
meditate about his unhappy country.
Thaddeus Kosciuszko was born in 1746, at
Sichniewice, in Lithuania, and after fight-
ing for the independence of the United
. returned to his own country in
hen- In- M-rvrd under Poniatowski
as major-general against the Russi ins. and
distinguished himself in the fight at Dubi-
enskn, near Lublin, in 179'2. King Stani--
laus Augustus, having entered into a treaty
which delivered Poland into the hands of
her enemies, Kosciuszko left his country
' and retired to Leipzig. In 1794. on the
rising of Poland, he left his retreat, and
was proclaimed commander-in-chief of the
whole of the national forces. He defeated
the Russians at Wraclawice, near Cracow,
but was compelled at Choczim to retreat
| before the Prussians, who were coming to
1 effect their junction with the Russians.
Four months later (October 4), attacked at
Maciejowice by a Russian army very su-
perior in numbers, he fell on the field of
battle, stabbed in many places. It has been
said that as he lay on the ground he cried
out, "Finis Poloniae ! " but he himself de-
! nied that desponding exclamation. He
| was led a prisoner to St. Petersburg, where
! he remained two years. Being set at lib-
erty by Paul I., he traveled in England and
! America, came to Paris in 1798. and lived
j in retirement both in this capital and at
Fontainebleau. In 1814 he retired to So-
leure, in Switzerland, where he died in
1817. Kosciuszko had been proclaimed a
French citizen as early as 1792. He found-
ed in his will a school for the instruction
of the blacks in America. Jefferson car-
ried his intention into effect by instituting
at Newark the Knsc!it/s-/:n School.
In the centre of the nave of the church
stands the magnificent shrine of St. Stan-
islaus, the patron saint of Poland. The cof-
fin, which is supported on the shoulders of
four angels, is of solid silver, as well as the
supporters, altar, statues, candlesticks, etc.
It was in front of this altar that the Pol-
ish kings were all crowned. Around the
church arc sixteen chapels, containing nu-
merous monuments of kings and heroes.
The first chapel, on coming out of the
vaults, contains the recumbent figure of
King Casimir Jagello, who died in 1492.
The figure is in porphyry, and by Veit Stoss.
On the opposite side is that of Bishop Sol-
tyk. The second chapel contains Thor-
waldsfri's Christ, with several busts by the
same artist.
Notice the monument of Casimir the
Great, the " founder of cities." Behind
the high altar is the monument of King
John Sobieski, the conqueror of the Turks,
who died in 1696.
The Treasury, which contains the Polish
| regalia, is shown at 10 A.M.
The church of St. .Vary, in the market-
place, deserves a visit : it dates from the
13th century, and contains a fine monu-
611
CRACOW.
[THE EMPIRE OF GERMANY.]
WARSAW.
ment of Copernicus. The high altar was
the work of the great Nuremberg artist,
Veil Stoss.
The University, one of the oldest in Eu-
rope, was founded by Casimir the Great.
It contains the wood-cuts of one of the first
editions of the Bible printed in Europe ;
also a statue of Copernicus, who was a pro-
fessor here. There is a botanical garden
attached to the building.
A visit should be made to the Cloth-hall,
in the centre of the market-place. This
also was founded by Casimir the Great.
The lower part is occupied by shops, and
is exceedingly interesting.
About four miles to the north of Cracow
is situated an immense mound of earth,
thrown up by the united efforts of the peo-
ple to the honor of Kosciuszko. The view
from the summit is a splendid one. The
Austrians have used it as a pedestal for
one of their detached forts, with which they
have encircled the entire city at an enor-
mous expense.
A valet-de-place costs about two florins.
Florins of Poland, in which accounts are
kept, are equivalent to 12i cents U. S. cur-
rencj', or 8 to the dollar.
A visit should be made to the salt-mines
of Wieliezka. The mines were nearly de-
stroyed in 1868 by an inundation. Permis-
sion to visit them may be obtained on Mon-
days, Wednesdays, and Saturdays at 2.30
P.M. The fee paid depends on the extent
of the illumination from 8 florins to 100.
A railroad is built to them, but a pleasant
drive in a carriage will take one hour, j
These mines have been worked 900 years,
and abound in chapels, halls for music, j
dancing, and various entertainments, a
lake, caverns, grottoes, bridges, all cut out I
of solid, granite-like salt. There are now |
1200 persons employed ; G miles of horse-
railroad, employing 35 horses, hundreds of i
feet under the surface. The greatest depth ;
is about 450 feet. The mines are clean j
and well lighted. Take at least one dozen ]
Bengal lights, and three or four mines for
exploding for effect of echoes ; they are
obtained at the office, together with over-
dremea.
From Cracow to Breslau. Time, 7 h. 29
m. ; fare, first class, 32 marks 54 pf.
From Cracow to Vienna. Time, 9 h. 24
m. ; fare, first class, 19 fl. 62 kr. ; second
class, 14 marks 70 pf.
612
From Cracow to Paris. Time, 43 h. 10
m., via Myslovitz-Berlin ; fare. 192 francs
25 c.
ROUTE No. 157.
Cracow to Warsaw. Time, 12 h. 36 m.
Russia is entered at <iranit.-m, where bag-
gage and passports are examined.
Czenstocfuiu, situated on the Wartha.
It is noted for its convent, Jasiui (iiir i,
which contains a picture of the Virgin, ? .ii<!
to have been painted by St. Luke, and the
oliject of great reverence to numerous pil-
grims who come yearly to pay tlioir devo-
tions. The convent is surrounded l>y a
miniature fortress ; l,ut it has done good
service on several occasions when defend-
ing itself against its enemies.
Pelrikau, a town of .11,250 inhabitants,
situated on the Shavra. Some of the first
tribunals of Poland were held here.
At Skiernuvitse junction the line from
Berlin joins that from Vienna. This place
was formerly the residence of the Princes
Primate of Poland. It was presented to
Maria Grudzinska by Alexander I. on the
occasion of her marriage to the Grand-Duke
Constantine, who at her death bequeathed
it to the kings of Poland.
Warsaw. Situated on the left bank of
the Vistula. Principal hotels, Victoria and
Europe.
The price of droskies is 20 kopecks the
course, and 75 the hour. Accounts in Rus-
sia are kept in rubles and kopecks. 100
kopecks = 1 ruble = 75 cents I". S. currency.
The city of Warsaw was founded in the
12th century, and in the IGth Sigisnumd
III. made it the capital of Poland. There
is very little to detain the traveler here,
the pictures and objects of art having all
been carried off to Moscow or St. Peters-
burg in 1831.
The Royal Castle is situated on a large
square, in the centre of which stands the
bronze statue of Sigismund III. on a mon-
olith of native marble, erected by his M.I:.
Vladislas IV. It was built by the Duke
of Masovia, and restored by Augustus III.,
WARSAW.
[THE EMPIRE OF GERMANY.]
WARSAW.
and was a royal residence up to 1831. when
all its treasures were removed. The form-
er royal apartments are now used by the
lieutenant of the emperor. '1 he other
parts, formerly occupied liy the deputies
and senate of Poland, are now a caserne.
The Pod BUikon, the former palace of
the Prince Joseph Poniatowski, is now used
by the diplomatic- chancery. The Palace
.Square was the scene of two popular upris-
ings of the citizens in 1*01. On both oc-
casions a great slaughter of the people took
place.
The Cathedral dates from the 13th cen-
tury. It w:is restored liy King John So-
bieski. Notice a monument to Count Ma-
lakhovski. by Tkorioaldiem ; also another to
Bishop Albertrandi, a celebrated historian.
There are numerous other objects of lesser
import which the valet-de-place will point
out.
A visit should be made to the new Cita-
del, built in 1831 at the expense of the city,
as a punishment for their offense in getting
up an insurrection during that year. It
also completely commands the town in case
of another revolt.
A drive should be taken through the
Jews' quarter, near which is an admirably
managed Lun-ttic Asylum.
Near the palace of the archbishops of
Warsaw, last inhabited by the Archbishop
Fialkovski in 1801, is the confiscated pal-
ace of the Pats family, and the Church of
the Capuchins, attached to a convent founded
by John Sobieski III. in gratitude for his
victory over the Turks. His heart is con-
tained in a sarcophagus in a chapel erected
by the Emperor Nicholas. In the same
chapel is an urn dedicated to King Stanis-
laus Poniatowski.
In Saxony Square, where the Hotel dc
1'Europe is situated, there is an obelisk
erected to the Polish generals who were
supposed to be faithful to the Russian
cause in lxl<i. A bronze statue of Prince
Joseph Poniatowski. by Thorwaldsen, was
to have been erected here by the Emperor
Nicholas, and the statue was executed ; but
after the rising of the people in that year
the empen;r (.resented the statue to the
Kiiv-i.m General Paskewitcli. who put down
the insurrection. The general had the
head of the prince replaced by one of him-
self, and erected the statue on his own es-
tate at Homel.
VOL. II. D 2
The Briihl Palace is another structure
in Saxony Square. It was erected by
Count Briihl, a minister of Augustus III.,
and was the former residence of the Grand-
Duke Constantine when he was command-
er-in-chief of the Russian forces in Poland.
There are numerous other pala
Rudziwill, Zumoyski, and Poniatmctki
but they contain nothing to interest the
traveler.
In the church of the Holy Cross, of the
suppressed convent of Lazarus, founded
by the queen of King John Sobieski III.,
is the tomb of Prince Joseph Poniatowski.
Close to this church stands the monument
to Copernicus, by Thorwaldsen.
There is also a FieldofMars, or Parade-
ground, a National Theatre and French
Theatre, Lyceum, Military Academy, School
of Arts, Conservatory of Music, r Royal So-
ciity of the Friends of Science, with a tine
library, Agricultural Society, and Cabinet
of Natural Sciences.
In the Novi Sviat is a pretty church,
erected by the Emperor Alexander I. in
memory of the re-establishment of a king-
dom in Poland in 1815. In the division
: that took place after 1794 Warsaw was
awarded to Prussia, from whom it was
taken by the French under Murat in 1806,
and up to 1815 it was the capital of the
grand-duchy of Warsaw, created by Na-
poleon, after which time it was ceded to
Russia by the allies.
In front of this church are two crosses,
' separated by the statue of St. John of Ne-
' pomuck, the patron saint of bridges. It is
said they were erected to the memory of
two brothers who killed each other in com-
bat, both being in love with their owu
sister.
Near the Observatory and Botanical
Gardens is the park of LaziensLi. formerly
the country residence of the kings of Po-
land, and where the Emperor of Russia re-
1 sides when he visits Warsaw; near to
; which is the Belvidere Pa/ace, a former
i residence of the Grand -Duke Constan-
! tine.
A pleasant excursion should be made to
the Palace of Villanov, about one hour's
drive from Warsaw. It was a favorite
residence of King John Sobieski III., who
died here in 1696. Most of the palace was
built by the Turks taken prisoners by the
king, and ornamented with trophies taken
613
ODERBEI:G.
[THE EMPIRE OF GERMANY.]
MiJNSTER.
in his victorious campaign in the East;
and here he returned, amid the shouts of
his victorious countrymen, after driving
the Turks from under the walls of Vienna,
and saving the Austrian monarchy. One
room is filled with portraits of Polish kings
and queens, another with armor and other
curiosities. Notice the suit of armor pre-
sented by the Pope to King John. The
apartment of the lovely Mary of Arquien,
queen of John III., is very pretty ; one of
the rooms represents the amours of Jupiter.
In the park is the magnificent tent of
Kara Mustapha, brought from Vienna by
King John.
There are numerous interesting villas in
the vicinity that belong to Count Potocki,
with a fine deer park ; and Ursinov, the
former residence of Julius Ursin Niemce-
vicz, the friend of Washington and Kosci-
uszko.
From Warsaw to Paris, via Berlin.
Time, 42 h. 45 m. ; fare, 163 marks 50 pf.
From Warsaw to St. Petersburg. Time,
23 h. 55 m. ; fare, first class, 31 fl. 53 kr.
From Warsaw to Vienna. Time, 18 h. 40
m. ; fare, 10 fl. 75 kr.
ROUTE No. 158.
Cracow to Vienna, via Oderberg, Prerau,
Bisenz, and Lundenburg. Time, 9 h. 24
m. ; fare, first class, 19 fl. 62 kr.=$10. 1 fl.
50 cts.
At Dzieditz station a branch line runs in
one hour to Bielitz, a manufacturing town.
Oderberg, a frontier station of Austria,
situated on the Oder, is the junction of the
lines from Breslau and Cracow.
SchOnbrunn junction, a branch line, in
one and a quarter hours runs to Troppau,
one of the principal towns in Austrian Si-
lesia, containing 12,500 inhabitants. Capi-
tal of the duchies of Troppau and Jagern-
dorf.
Weisskirchen forms the boundary be-
tween Moravia and Austrian Silesia.
Prerau is one of the most ancient cities
of Moravia. Its castle of Berg was long
614
inhabited by Matthias Corvinius. The line
from Prague through Olmiitz falls in here.
Lundenburg junction is where the line
from Prague through Briinn joins the main
line ; also from Prague through Znaim.
Passing through the station Gdnzern-
dorf, where a line leaves for Presburg,
Pesth, etc., and
Florisdorf, where the Austrians estab-
lished a fortified tcte-du-pont against the
Prussians in 1SG6,
Vienna is reached. For description of
Vienna, see Route 185.
ROUTE No. 159.
Dusseldorf to Bremen, via Munster and
Osnabruck. Time, 6 h. 31 m. ; fare, first
class, 23 marks 60 pf. ; second class, 17
marks 70 pf.
For description of Dusseldorf, see Route
145.
In forty minutes from Dusseldorf the
station and junction of Oberhausen is
reached. Direct line to Berlin, also to
Holland.
Oberhausen is described in Route 145.
Munster, the capital of the province of
Westphalia, is situated on the River Aa,
and contains 28,000 inhabitants. Princi-
pal hotels, Kimig von England and tthein-
ischerhof. It is an Episcopal see of great
antiquity, and is said to have been founded
by Charlemagne : during the 13th and 14th
centuries it was one of the most celebrated
towns belonging to the Hanseatic League.
It was formerly ruled by archbishops, who
were independent princes; and one of
them, the Bishop of Galen, in 1678, during
the wars of France and the Netherlands,
maintained an army of 60,000 men, in-
fantry and cavalry, with 200 pieces of ar-
tillery. The town is finely preserved, and
some of the houses are remarkable speci-
mens of antiquity, especially those in the
principal street (Markt).
The principal Gothic building is the Ca
thedral, constructed between the 13th and
MlJKSTER.
[THE EMPIRE OF GERMANY.]
JUTERBOOK.
14th centuries. The interior has been
much mutilated by the Anabaptists, a sect
widely spread over Germany and the Neth-
erlands about the commencement of the
Reformation. Some of them still exist
under the name of Mennonites. In If.:!.'!
this se:-t, headed by a tailor, John Bock-
hold, from I.evden, in Holland, and Mat-
tliii-M-n, a baker from Haarlem, came to
MiinstcT, and with the aid of one or two
citizens succeeded in banishing the Epis-
copal party. Taking the reins of govern-
ment, they declared the tailor " King of
the New Sion." A reign of terror com-
menced ; fearful atrocities were committed ;
jMilygamy was introduced, and riot ran wild,
while pestilence and famine devastated the
town. The following year they were com-
pelled to capitulate, and the leaders were
put to fearful tortures and executed.
Behind the choir is the tomb of Bishop
Galen, the u warrior bishop."
The church of St. Ludger, originally
built in the Romanesque style in the 12th
century, was enlarged, after a fire in 1383,
in the Gothic stylo. It was restored be-
tween ixfit; and 18(iO, and deserves a visit.
Its stained-glass windows and sculpture
are very fine.
S7. Lambert Church is a very handsome
Gothic structure of the 14th century.
From its leaning tower hang the iron cages
in which the Levden tailor, or tailor king,
and his Anabaptist associates were tor-
tured with red-hot pincers previous to their
execution in the Great Square. The house
of John of Leyden is shown behind the
Post-office.
The Rathhaus has a fine Gothic front,
and dates from the 14th century. In one
of its saloons, called the f'riedenssaal, was
signed the Peace of Westphalia, October 24,
1648. It was restored in 1853, and con-
tains portraits of the embassadors who
signed the peace, and the princes who took
part in the Congress.
Under the colonnade are exposed the
tongs and pincers with which the Anabap-
tists were tortured previous to their exe-
cution.
In the Domplatz is a museum of antiq-
uities.
Behind the chateau there is a public
park, with a botanical garden.
There is a line from Minister through
Rhtina, Lingtn, and Meppen to Emden.
Rheina is a small commercial town on the
Ems, with a handsome Gothic church, and
has several fine modern buildings.
Osnabriick (hotel, Sch'iumbi.ry) is the
capital of the province of the same name,
and contains 24,000 inhabitants : it was
founded by Charlemagne in 783. The
Cathedral dates from the 12th century, and
contains numerous relics.
The adjoining square is ornamented
with a monument in bronze to Justus Mo-
ser, 1)}' Drake, erected to the " Westpha-
lian Franklin."
The church of St. Mary is a small edifice
of the purest Gothic ; it is rich in tracery
and sculpture. The altar is surmounted
I with a tabernacle beautifully decorated
and gilded.
Adjoining this is the Rathhaus, a castel-
lated building of the 15th century. Many
of the negotiations for the Peace of West-
phalia took place here, some souvenirs of
which still exist.
The line passes several stations before
reaching Bremen, which are of no impor-
tance.
Brem'n is described in Route 150.
ROUTE No. 160.
Berlin to Leipzig, via Wittenberg. Time,
3 h. 5 m. ; fare, first class, 15 marks 40 pf. ;
second class, 11 marks 80 pf.
Gros-t-Beeren, a station 11 miles from Ber-
lin ; the scene of a victory gained by the
Prussians over the French and Germans
under Oudinot, August 21, 1813. A cast-
iron obelisk, ornamented with a cross, marks
the spot.
Luckenwald, a town of 13,000 inhabitants,
celebrated for its cloth manufactories.
Juterbrgk junction. The line for Hallo
here turns to the right. The principal ob-
ject of attraction here is the noted indul-
gence-box in the church of St. Nicholas.
It was the property of Tetzel, Luther's an-
615
WITTENBERG.
[THE.EMPIRE OF GERMANY.]
WlTTEXBEUG.
tagonist, who was conveying it home filled
with gold when it was stolen from him
by a robber knight, Hans von Hacke. Tet-
zel had previously sold the robber an in-
dulgence for any action he might commit.
Some two miles from this station is the
battle-field of Dennewitz, where the Prus-
sians gained another victory over the
French, commanded by Ney and Oudinot.
The French lost 10,000 prisoners, and Ber-
lin was saved. A monument has been
erected to commemorate the event.
Wittenberg. Hotels, Ludwig, Zum golden-
en Adler, and Wtintraube. There is a good
restaurant at the station. Wittenberg is
a fortified town, situated on the right bank
of the Elbe. It is noted for being the
place where Martin Luther first com-
menced his war against the evils and
abuses of the Church of Rome. He was
Professor of Philosophy and Theology in
the University of Wittenberg, the same
school where Shakspeare's Hamlet stud-
ied. The Schlusskirche is the principal
building. It was against the doors of this
church that Luther hung up his ninety-five
arguments against the Church of Rome,
offering to defend them against all comers.
In the centre of the church are two tablets
let into the floor, pointing out the spot
where Luther and his friend Melanchthon
lie buried.
Martin Luther was born November 10,
1484, in Eisleben, a town in Prussian Sax-
ony. He was the son of a miner. He
studied at Eisenach, begging in the mean
time to obtain a subsistence. A thunder-
bolt having killed one of his companions at
his side, caused him to embrace religion.
He entered the convent of the Augustins,
and became professor of theology in the
University of Wittenberg. Having stud-
ied the writings of John Huss, he rapidly
acquired a taste for his opinions. The
sale of indulgences by the Pope furnished
him an occasion to open the controversy.
He published an argument in which he de-
nied their efficacy. Tho quarrel soon be-
came excited. Lnther, who at first at-
tacked but the abuses of the Church, now
attacked the authority of the Pope, the be-
lief in purgatory, the celibacy of the priests,
the possession of temporal wealth, the doc-
trine of transubstantiation, and the mass.
He married a nua yarned Katharine 'von
Bora, by whom he had six children. He
was excommunicated by the Pope, and
616
I Henry VIII. of England wrote strongly
i against him. He burned the bulls of the
Pope, and responded to Henry VIII. in the
strongest terms. The duchy of Saxony,
i Denmark, and Sweden took th part of
Luther in this quarrel. At the Diet of
Worms he supported his opinions. The
I first Diet of Spire, held in 1526. acknowl-
j edged the liberty of conscience; that hold
in 1529, desiring to rescind the acknowl-
edgment of the first, the Lutherans />/-
tested against it, from whence is derived
the name of Protestants. Luther died at
Eisleben, in 1504, in the sixty-third year
I of his age. He was a man of impetuous
i eloquence, and exercised an irresistible in-
fluence on the multitude. His works are
very numerous. Bossuet, in his Histoi~y
of the Variations of the Church, has tried to
refute his doctrines.
In addition to the tombs of Luther and
Melanchthon in the Sch'osskirche are the
monuments of Frederick the Wise and John
the Steadfast, both of whom were strong
suppo;ters of Luther and his doctrines.
There is also a line bronze statue of Fred-
erick the Great. In the Market J'luce
there is a Gothic temple of iron, and in it
a bronze statue of Luther, erected in 1821,
with this inscription in German : "If it be
the work of God, it trill endure ; if of man,
it will perish." In the University build-
ings, where he resided after he was mar-
ried, there still remain his chair, table,
beer-jug, and two portraits ot him by Cra-
nach, who was a native of Wittenberg ;
also a cast of 1 is face taken after his death.
Many of the nobles of the earth have stood
in this room, and left their names on the
wall as memorials of their visit ; among
others, Peter the Great, who wrote his
name with chalk over the door : it is now
covered with a piece of glass to protect it
from the touch of the curious. At the
Stadtkirche may be seen the font where
Luther baptized, also some very fine pict-
ures by Cranach. The present citadel
was formerly the castle of the electors.
The town of Wittenberg was besieged
by the Prussians for nearly one year in
1814, and was finally carried by storm :
the French suffered severely in this action.
On the place where Luther, on the 10th of
Dec., 1520, burned the Pope's bull, there is
a tree now standing inclosed by a railing.
The ancient University was removed in
1817, and united to that of Halle.
I ii WAD.
The line now crosses the Elbe by a
bridge 901) feet long, and arrives at Bitter-
feld junction. A line to the north goes to
',-, that to the west to Halle.
[DesmiH is a town of 19,000 inhabitants,
and the capital of the dukedom of Anhalt-
i. There are no public buildings but
hloss, which contains a picture-gal-
lery and a library with numerous MSS. of
Luther; there is one department devoted
t i relics, which contains several articles of
Napoleon captured at Waterloo. The
Schlosskirche contains the tombs of the
ducal family, and a Last Supper by Crn-
nach. Mendelssohn, the composer, was
born in Dessau.]
Ltipzig, described in Route No. 162.
ROUTE No. 161.
Berlin to Dusseldorf, via Halle, Eisleben,
Nordhausen, Cassil, and Elberfeld. Time,
15 h. ; fare, first class, 56 marks 10 pf. ;
second class, 39 marks 80 pf. (sleeping-car
to Diisseldorf and Aix-la-Chapelle,10 P.M.,
8 mark.- .
Berlin to Dusseldorf, direct, via Schwerte.
Time, 9 h. 57 m. ; fare, 49 marks 70 pf.
From Berlin to BitterfM, see Route 160.
Halle, situated on the river Saale, con-
tains 52, COO inhabitants. Principal ho-
tels, Stadt Hamburg, Kronprinz, and AV</ It
Zurich. The name of this town is derived
from the Greek, and means Salt Springs,
such springs having existed from the re-
motest period, and are worked to-<lay, pro-
ducing annually 11,000 tons of salt. There
are numerous private springs which rise'
within the town, where the water is boiled
down ; those outside the town belong to
the government, and are situated on an isl-
and in the river. The brine is pumped up
by a steam-engine.
Halle is celebrated for its University,
founded by Frederick I. of Prussia in !(>'.) 1,
whi'-h contains at the present time (l>7r, i
1000 students. That of Wittenberg was
transferred here in 1817.
This town formed part of the Hanseatic
League in the 13th and 14th centm
In the market-place visit the Rot lie
Thurm, or red tower, 27C feet high. Near
it is a colossal bronze statue of Handel,
the composer, who was burn he-re in li',,-:,.
He is represented in n court-dress, and at
the back of the music-desk a St. Cecilia
a portrait of Jenny Lind. Handel died
[THE EMPIRE OF GERMANY.]
ElSLEBEN.
in London in 1759. The monument was
raised by subscriptions collected in En-
gland and Germany. The ('at fit ilral con-
tains an altar-piece representing the Duke
Augustus of Saxony and his family. Ad-
joining the cathedral is the former resi-
dence of the Hivhbi-hnps of Magdeburg.
The principal religious monument in
Halle is the church of >7. Maurice. The
wood-work of the altar, representing Mary
with the Saint.-, is most exquisite.
This is the parish church of the work-
men of the mines called Hulloren. a distinct
race, supposed to be descendants of the an-
cient Wends, and who preserve their old
manners and customs.
The Marktkirche is a plain Gothic build-
ing flanked by four towers, dating from
the middle of the 16th century. It con-
tains a tine altar-piece the " Sermon on
the Mount," by J. Hiibner; also a fine
work by Lucas Cranach, painted by the
order of the Cardinal Albert of Branden-
burg, founder of the church ; the subjects
are the Annunciation and Madonna and
Child.
The Stifitingen, or FnmcTce's Institute,
founded in 1698, is composed of an Orp'ian
Aay'um, Laboratory, and Printing-office.
The establishment is ornamented with a
statue of the founder of these institutions,
by Ranch.
Near the cathedral are the ruins of the
chateau of Moritz'iurg, reduced to its pres-
ent state by the Thirty-years' War.
Ilnlle to~BtrUn. Time, 3 h.9 in. ; fare,
first class, 13 marks 2 g.
llulle to Frankfort. Time, 12 hours ;
fare, first class, 4:> marks 5 g.
Twenty -four miles from Halle, on our
route, is
Eisleben (Hotel, Goldenes ScfiiJF), con-
taining 12,750 inhabitants, noted as the
birthplace of Luther. The house where
the great Reformer was born is situated
near the Post-office, and is now used as a
school. His picture is placed over the
door. The font where he was baptized is
in tlii- }'? i--l'>niI-I\'n-< li .
The church of Xf. An<!reir. where Luther
preached, contains some remarkable tombs
of the counts of Mansfcld.
Kiirht miles from Eisleben is the town
of Mtmtjedi, where Luther spent the first
fifteen years of his life, mostly at the par-
ish school.
617
NoBDHAtiSEN.
[THE EMPIRE OF GERMANY.]
CASSEL.
On an adjoining hill stands one of the
old castles of the counts of Mansfeld.
X/mlh nisen.- Hotels, Romiscker Kaiser
and Eng'ischi-r Jlof. It contains ^0,000 in-
habitants, and is situated in a most fertile
country, at the extremity of the Harz
Mountains, the tour of which can be made
from this point. See Harz Mountains, in
Index.
In the church of St. Blasius are two fine
paintings by Lucas Cranach the " Ecce
Homo," and the "Young Man of Nain;"
in two of the mourners the artist has intro-
duced the portraits of Luther and Melanch-
thon.
At Leinfftlde there is a branch line to
Gotha.
Gottingen. Hotel*, Krone and Gebhardt.
Population, 15,000. This town contains
nothing of importance but its Univ rsity,
which was founded by George 1 1. of Han-
over in 1737. There are about 700 stu-
dents and 65 professors. The library is
very fine, and contains nearly 500,000 vol-
umes, with 5000 MSS. There is a very
fine Anatomical Museum, also a Museum of
Natural History. There is a very good
Botanical Garden and an Observatory.
The walks on the ramparts are quite pleas-
ant, but solitary.
Passing the station Mindtn, a town of
6000 inhabitants, where there is an old
Schloss, erected in 1566, a former residence
of the ancestors of the royal family of En-
gland, Cassel is reached.
Cassel, the capital of the late Electorate
of Hesse-Cassel, and present capital of the
province, is beautifully situated on both
sides of the Fulda. It contains a population
of 63,895 inhabitants. Principal hotels : du
Nord and Royal, opposite the station, and
Prim Friedrich Wilhelm, prettily situated in
the Friedrich Wilhelm's Platz. In the mid-
dle of the Friedrichsplatz, the largest square
in any German town, stands a statue of the
Elector Frederick, whose memory is uni-
versally detested by all freemen of the
Western world. He it was who hired his
bloodthirsty soldiers to the King of En- !
gland to crush the rising growth of our
young republic. Cassel is divided into the
Old and New towns, the former of which,
close to the river's bank, consists of nar- '
row and dirty streets ; the latter contains
the elector's palace and many other pub-
lic edifices, with several fine squares. The
618
Museum, which is situated on Friedrichs-
platz, next to the elector's palace, ia the
finest building in Cassel. It contains a
library of 200,000 volumes and a cabinet
of curiosities. Among the latter are sev-
eral antiquities from Hercnlaneum. busts
of Napoleon and his son, the young King
of Rome, by Canova, several very fine an-
tique statues purchased from the Pope,
among which are a Minerva and a bronze
head of Mars. The antique bronze figure
of Victory is the lion of the collection.
There are also some fine agates, from 3 to
4 feet long, from the Marburg mines. It is
open free on Monthly, Tuesday, Thursday,
and Friday during the summer, from 10 to
1, and Tuesday and Fridaj r in winter; on
other days it requires a fee of 3 marks for
one person and 6 marks for a party. The
Picture-gallery in the Belvidere contains
some very fine pictures. They are princi-
pally of the Dutch school, Rembrandt, Van-
dyke, and Teniers. There is a very fine
cattle-piece by Paul Potter, with numerous
Murillos, Titians, Raphaels, etc.
This gallery is open on Sundays from
12 to 2, on Wednesdays and Saturdays
from 9 to 1 ; on other days a small fee is
expected from strangers.
A little below the Friedrichsplatz, in
the old town, is the Kattenbwrg, a large un-
finished palace, begun upon the site of the
old electoral palace destroyed by fire in
1811. Work on it was suspended on ac-
count of the death of the elector who com-
menced it. It is now covered with moss
and weeds.
Cassel has eight churches, seven Prot-
estant and one Jewish. The principal is
the church of St. Martin : it is the burial-
place of the royal family. Its educational
and charitable institutions are very nu-
merous ; among the latter is the Wilhelms
Institttt, where a large number of poor are
not only provided for, but taught different
trades. In the Auyartcn, or public gar-
den, is situated the Marble Bath, a very
elaborate apartment, filled with statues
and bas-reliefs, not of the most delicate
character. Close to this is the orangery.
Cassel possesses few manufactures, com-
paratively speaking: the principal are
woolen, silk, and cotton fabrics, snuff, play-
ing-cards, and chemical products. It has
two fairs annually.
A straight and handsome road, shaded
WARBURG.
[THE EMPIRE OF GERMANY. J
by an avenue of limes three miles long,
leads to Wi'heltnfhlhe, the Versailles of
Germany, and summer residence of the
elector. Carriage, C marks. l|y no means
quit Cassc'l without visiting this lieautiful
S(>ot. The waters play every Wednesday
ami Sunday afternoon. The highest fount-
ain on the Continent is here ; one stream,
12 inches in diameter, is thrown to the
height of 200 feet. This palace is regard-
ed as one of the most magnificent resi-
dences in Europe. Apart from the im-
mense amount spent on it, its natural beau-
ties are hard to match. The palace lies at
the bottom of the hill ; it was occupied by
Jerome Napoleon while King of Westphalia;
close to it is the theatre he built, and where
he used to act. The principal objects of
interest here are the colossal Hercules and
the Cascade of Karlshurg. The cascade
is 900 feet long, and at its head is the co-
lossal statue, which stands on an octagon
building 1300 feet above the river. The
figure is of copper, and 30 feet high ; eight
persons can stand at one time in the hol-
low of the club the figure holds in his
hand. The view from the statue is most
delightful.
Eight miles from Cassel is the castle of
Wilfielmslhal, built by the Elector Wilhelm
III. It is situated in a beautiful park, and
well deserves a visit.
Warburg (population, 4000 ) ; an old, de-
cayed town, commanded by a hill, on
which may be seen the ruins of the castle
of Desenberg.
Xieder-Marsberg station, whence a dili-
gence in three hours to Arolsen, the resi-
dence of the Prince of Waldeck. whose pal-
ace contains a fine collection of antiquities
from Pompeii.
Arnsberg, an unimportant town, situated
on a hill nearly surrounded by the River
Ruhr. It contains 4000 inhabitants, and
was the former capital of the ancient duchy
of Westphalia.
Elberfeld, described in Route No. 146.
ROUTE No. 162.
Dresden to Frankfort -on -the -Main, via
Leipzig, Weimar, Gotha, Eisenach, and
Fulda. Time, 11 h. 30 m. ; fare, first class,
46 marks, 30 pf.
LEIPZIG.
Dresden, described in Route No. 166.
From Dresden to Leipzig, in 2 h. 16 m.,
by express; fare, first class, 11 marks 90
pf. ; second class, 9 marks ; or via Bobein
and .\feissen, 4 h. 30 m. ; there is nothing
specially to see via the express route.
Nearly 10 miles from Dresden is the
Niederau station, four miles from which is
the town of Meissen (Hotels, Ilirsch and
Stern), celebrated for its porcelain manu-
factory, where the Dresden china is made.
It contains a population of 8000 inhabit-
ants. Above the town, situated on a rock,
is the castle where formerly the govern-
ment facton r of Dresden china was situ-
ated. Part is now used as a state prison,
and the factory is at Triebischtbal, half a
mile farther up the Elbe. About 600 work-
men are now employed. The factory is to
be seen every day. Porcelain wi's origin-
ally brought from China, from which it
was named, and was first made in Europe
in the 16th century at this place. It is
said to have been first manufactured by
one Botticher, a native of Plauen, an alche-
mist of the 16th century, who accidentally
discovered the art of making it in the course
of his search for the philosopher's stone.
During the Seven - years' War this es-
tablishment was nearly ruined, Frederick
the Great having carried off its workmen,
medals, and archives. The ware now man-
ufactured does not equal that of the time
when the factory was carried on by the
former kings. Near the manufactory is
the Cathedral, which contains some very
fine paintings, also the tombs of the early
Saxon princes.
Meissen is the terminus of the mammoth
tunnel, twenty-four miles long, being made
for the purpose of draining the Freiberg
silver-mines, which have been for ages the
source of Saxon wealth.
Leipziffhas 149, 081 inhabitants. Huti'l- :
Ihtufte, Sedan, Heller zum Bamberger Jf<>f,
and de Rom-. Hotel Hauffe, is one of the
finest houses in Germany. Hotel Sedan is
a fine, first-class. IK wlv-huilt house opposite
the Thuringian Station. IJ<'>t< I Heller zum
Bamberrjfr llnf is a good house with mod-
erate prices. Hotel de Rome, en the Prom-
enade, near the principal station. Leipzig
is the second citv in Saxony, and one of
" 619
Licir/.ic..
[THE EMPIRE OF GERMANY.]
LEIPZIG.
the most industrious and commercial cities
in Europe. It stands on a fertile plain
near the right bank of the River Elster.
The traveler should ascend the tower of
the Pleissenburg, whence a magnificent
view of the city, country, and whole of the
field of the celebrated battle may be ob-
tained.
Leipzig, although a place of great his-
torical celebrity and commercial impor-
tance, has not much to detain the traveler
except during its three fairs, which are
held here annually, one beginning on New-
year's day, the other beginning on the first ;
Sunday after Michaelmas, and the last and ,
most important beginning the second Sun-
day after Easter. During these seasons
the town is very gay. Strangers are here
from all parts of the world : Turks and
Jews, Greeks, Romans, Armenians, Per-
sians, Americans, and Hindoos. While i
the fairs last the hotels charge double their i
usual price, and there are generally an
many strangers in the city as its popula-
tion amounts to. The money transactions
often amount to 80 million dollars. Leip-
zig is the centre of the German book-trade,
who, to the number of between six and j
seven hundred, meet here annually to bal-
ance their accounts, and their sales often
amount to two million dollars yearh*. |
Nearly every bookseller or publisher in |
Germany has an agency here. There are ;
about 130 depots for books, 15 steam-press-
es, and 200 hand-presses. The publishers ;
have an Exchange of their own, called the j
fluclihaudler-Borse, where they transact all
their business.
Leipzig is the seat of a University which
possesses a distinguished reputation, and
has numerous literary and scicntilic estab-
lishments. The city was of early origin,
and has often been noted in connection with
the events of modern history. Its Uni-
versity was founded in the early part of
the 15th century, and lias nearly 2000 stu-
dents; its buildings are very finely orna-
mented. It is called the Augusteum, and
was completed in 1836; back of which arc
the Paulinum and Puulinerkirche. This
last originally formed part of the Domin-
ican convent. The Paulinum contains
the University Library, with 300.000 vol-
umes and 2000 MSS. Open every day in
the week except Sunday. Goethe studied
at this University, and one of the " lions"
620
of the place is Auerbaeh's cellar, where he
laid one of his scenes in the tragedy of
1 aust. In this cellar Mepliistopheles sup-
plied the drunken students with wine from
gimlet-holes bored in the table. Here it
was Dr. Faustus performed his feats. In
this cellar Goethe himself held his midnight
orgies when a student at the University.
- On one side of the picturesque market-
place is the R'tthhuus, or town-hall, former-
ly the residence of the princes of Saxony.
Marshal Schwarzenberg, general of the
allied army, died in it. It was occupied
by Napoleon during the battle of Leipzig.
This battle was the most famous occurrence
in the annals of the town, when Napoleon
was defeated by the combined armies of
Austria, Russia, and Prussia in 1813, after
three days' contest, which was deservedly
designated "The Battle of Nations." It
was fought on the 16th, 17th, 18th, and 19th
A October. Napoleon's army amounted
to 170,000, and the allied forces to 300,000.
Napoleon left Leipzig minus 80,00!) men ;
the loss of the allies was about 50,000.
The August usplatz contains the very hand-
some New Th-- litre, finished in 18G7, at an
expense of 2,100,000 marks. It has a fine
Corinthian portico. The veranda at the
back overlooks the handsome little lake of
Schwanenteich.
On another side of the Augustusplatz is
the Mus urn, finished in 1858. It is a very
handsome building, and contains a good
collection of modern paintings collected by
the Leipzig Society of Artists. It is open
free on Sunday from 10.30 to 3 ; Tuesday,
Thursday, and Saturday, 10 to 4 ; and
Monday, 12 to 4.
On the ground floor are the casts; to
the right the exposition of the Society, and
to the left the cartoons and other draw-
ings.
On the staircase is a medallion of Hem-
rich Schletter, the donor of most of the
pictures, and to whom the Museum partly
owes its existence.
The first floor contains the paintings
ancient and modern pictures : and as there
is a good catalogue for sale (price 7i gro-
schens), it is not necessary to give any list.
There are fifteen rooms in all.
On the second floor there is a fine col-
lection of stamps and engravings.
In the garden of M. (ier.inl is a tomb-
stone erected to the ir.eiiioiy of the brave
LEIPZIG.
[THE EMPIRE OF GERMANY. j
NACMBCRG.
Prince Poniatowski, who was drowned in
attempting to swim his horse acmss the
Elster. He had been partially instrument-
al in preventing the capture of Napoleon
by covering his retreat ; had had his horse
shut under him, and was seriously wound-
ed. The stream was so filled with the
dead ainl dying men and horses that the
miserable steed on which he was mounted
was unable to push his way through, and
horse and rider both sank. He had been
made a Marshal of France three days be-
fore by Napoleon. The brave Macdonald
crossed at the same place, and was saved.
There is a model of Thorwaldsen's statue
of him here. There are two other monu-
ments erected here in connection with the
battle one where the three allied sover-
eigns met. and another to the memory of
Marshal Schwarzenberg. The walks and
gardens around the city walls are very in-
teresting, and the park of Rosentha'. is much
frequented during the summer months, to
listen to the free concerts given in the
cafes.
Leipzig has a large wool-market, which
is held here in May : it also has extensive
manufactures of silken fabrics, hosiery,
leather, and oil-cloths, playing-cards, to-
bacco, gold and silver articles, snuff", choco-
late, liquors, and musical instruments, with
numerous printing, engraving, and wool-
spinning establishments. In the publish-
ers' catalogue issued during the fair there
are often from 4000 to 5000 new books an-
nounced.
An excursion might be made to the res-
idence of Baron Speck, live miles from the
city. His gallery contains some very fine
paintings ; among them is a Madonna and
Child by Murillo.
The former citadel of Pleissenburg, now
a barrack, has a high tower from whence
a fine view of the battle-field can be ob-
tained.
The church of St. Nicholas dates from
the 12th century ; two of its towers are of
the same date, the other two date from
1555.
< >n the promenade is a bronze sitting
statue of Samuel Hahnemann* the founder
of the system of homoeopathy, born in
Mei-sen in 17")5. and died in Paris in 1843.
A stone monument, in the form of a sar-
cophagus, erected in memory of Poniatow-
ski by his friend General Poe/.niska, stands
near the spot where the brave Pole was
drowned.
Beyond the Milch-Insel gardens is ths
Kugel Denkma', erected in 1845 in memory
of the battle of Leipzig, near which is the
Schiitz nhnus a large music-hall, with gar-
dens.
There is a fine Gymnastic Establishment
in the Turnerstrasse, which cost the city
120,000 marks, which deserves to be seen.
It was erected in 1863.
There are five different railway stations
in Leipzig, from whence lines run north,
south, east, and west, and five lines of
American tramways running in every di-
rection.
A metal ticket is handed to the traveler
when he arrives at a station, indicating the
number of cab to which he is entitled,
Kit zing $ Helbig's Restaurant, the finest
in Leipzig, 19 Peterstrasse, is noted for its
cuisine and excellent wines.
Proceeding on the route to Weimar,
Corbetha junction is passed, five miles
west of which was the scene of a great vic-
tory of Frederick the Great over the French
and Austrians, Nov. 5, 1757.
About 20 miles from Leipzig is the town
of Weitsenfek, containing about 11,000 in-
habitants. Napoleon slept here the night
after the battle of Leipzig. On the height
above the town is the Castle, which was
formerly the residence of the dukes of
Weissenfels. It is rendered more famous
from the fact that Gustavus Adolphus, king
of Sweden, was brought here from the bat-
tle of Liitzen. where he was killed in 1633.
He was embalmed in a room in the castle,
and his blood is still shown on the wall.
His heart, which, it is said, weighed one
pound and two ounces, was conveyed to
Stockholm by his widowed queen.
Eight miles from Weissenfels and
Xnnmburg station is reached; the town is
some distance off, and contains 15,000 in-
habitants. Hotel, Sack. The Cathedral
dates from the 13th century, and contains
some fine sculptures of an early date. It
contains some singular monuments and
stained-glass windows. The Skidtkirche
contains a picture by Cranach of Christ
blessing little children.
Naumburg is a place of considerable his-
toric importance. It was here that Napo-
leon turned the flunk of the Prussian army,
resulting in his great victorv at -'cna. The
C21
WEIMAR.
[THE EMPIRE OF GERMANY.]
ERFURT.
possession of the town was hotly contested
by the French after the defeat of Leipzig.
Weimar. This charming town is situ-
ated on the Ilm, in the midst of beautiful
groves and handsome grounds ; its popula-
tion is 15,000. Principal hotels are Rus-
sicher Hof and //. Erbprinz. There are
few things here to detain the traveler any
length of time. It possesses, however, a |
great interest as the residence of some of |
the most distinguished literary men of
Germany, drawn thither by the enlighten-
ed patronage of the grand-duke. Among
the great names thus connected with it are
those of Schiller, Goethe, Herder, and \Vie-
land. Weimar has no trade or manufact-
ures of any importance, but its literary
and scientific establishments surpass those
of places of much larger size and vastly
greater commercial importance. It was
formerly called the Athens of Germany ; its
groves alone certainly remind one of the
academic groves of ancient Athens (there
are no groves there now, nor any shade
save that presented by stunted, mildewed
olive-trees).
The sights to be seen are the grand-ducal
Palace, which is a handsome structure ; it
contains some fine modern frescoes, illus-
trating the works of Weimar's greatest
poets. In one of the rooms is kept the ar-
mor and one of the thumbs of the Grand-
Duke Bernard, one of the Protestant lead-
ers in the Thirty -Years' War. His body
is buried in the StadtMrche. Adjacent to
the palace is the Public Library, which
contains busts of Goethe, Schiller, Herder,
and Wieland ; also numerous relics of Lu-
ther and others. The Stadtkirche con-
tains a fine painting by Lucas Cranach:
it represents the Crucifixion, and is con-
sidered one of his very best works. In
front of the church stand bronze statues of
Herder and Schiller. The interior of the
church contains Herder's remains. This
church was also the burial-place for the
members of the ducal family. The house
of Goethe has been hired by his heirs, and
can not now be seen except on Fridays.
Schiller's house has been purchased by the
town, and can be visited daily ; one will
here find a collection of numerous relics
of the great poet. There are statues of
Goethe and Schiller by Rietschel in the
Theaterplatz.
Out of the town is the New Church-yard,
622
which contains the present grand-ducal
burial-vault. Here i-eposc the bodies of
the poets Goethe and Schiller. Here also
lies the body of their friend and patron,
the late grand-duke. It was his desire
that the poets should lie on either side of
him, but courtly etiquette forbade the
proximity. This church-yard is a sweet
place to visit on a bright summer morn-
ing, the air made fragrant by the opening
rose-buds, and all nature still with the ex-
ception of the musical warbling of the
birds and the humming of the bees. Some
of the monuments are perfect gems of art.
Here may be seen an admirable arrange-
ment to prevent the accident of premature
burial in cr.ses of suspended animation.
In a dark chamber, lighted with a small
lamp, the body lies in a coffin ; in its fin-
gers are placed strings, which communi-
cate with an alarm-clock ; the least pulsa-
tion of the corpse will ring the bell in an
adjoining chamber, where a person is placed
to watch, when medical attendance is at
once supplied. There have been several
cases where persons supposed to be dead
were thus saved from premature interment.
About twelve miles southeast of Weimar
is the town of Jena, famous as the scene
of one of Napoleon's greatest victories over
the Prussians in 1806. It contains StiOO
inhabitants. Hotel, Sonne. It possesses a
celebrated University, which has number-
ed some of the most eminent men of the
present and preceding centuries among
its professors. To reach the battle-field go
by railway to Apoldu, from which place
there is a diligence in 1 h. 30 m.
Erfurt, finely situated on the Werra.
Population, 43,760. Hotels are //. Zum
Kaiser and //. Silber. This is an old and
well-built town, strongly fortified, and of
considerable commercial importance. It
contains a garrison of 4500. It was a
member of the Hanseatic League, and be-
longed to the Elector of Mayence up to
1802 ; then to Prussia until 1806. For the
following eight years it remained in pos-
session of France, since which time to
Prussia. Its University was suppressed in
1816. The principal edifice is the Cathe-
dral, which dates from the 12th century.
It possesses a famous bell, called Grosse
Sus'inna-, weighing 275 cwt. The church
contains some pictures and very fine mon-
uments. The painted glass is also very
GOTHA.
[THE EMPIRE OF GERMANY.!
ElSEXAi-Il.
good. The leading object of interest, how- !
ever, in the town is the orphan asylum.
occupying the Augustine convent of which
Luther was a member. One of the apart-
ments contains his Bible, portrait, and
other relics. The two churches, Prediger- \
1-ircheandBaarfusserkirche, are well worth i
a visit. It has now a Protestant and Ro-
man Catholic school, gymnasia, a normal
school, an academy of sciences, a museum, i
botanical gardens, and a public library of
20,000 volumes. It has extensive manu-
factories of woolen and cotton cloths, shoes,
leather, and vinegar. In 1808 the memor-
able interview between Napoleon and Alex-
ander, emperor of Russia, here took place.
Gotha conjointly with Coburg, the res-
idence of the sovereign prince of the Duchy
of Saxe - Coburg - Gotha is beautiful-
ly situated on the declivity of a hill, the
summit of which is crowned by the palace
of Friedenstein. It contains a population
of 20,000 inhabitants. Principal hotels are j
Deutschtr I/of, Miinchener, and Stadt Co-
burg. This capital has become familiar to
American ears from the relationship ex-
isting between its reigning sovereign and
England's mistress the duke's younger
brother, the late Prince Albert, having
married Queen Victoria.
Nature and art have made this city as
fair a capital in miniature as can well be
imagined. It is one of the best laid out
and best built towns in Germany, and sur-
rounded by handsome boulevards, which
replace its ancient fortifications. The sit-
uation is beautiful, and the climate exceed-
ingly healthy. The scenery around it is
varied, pleasing, romantic, and interesting.
Within, all the literary, religious, and sci-
entific institutions, such as museums of
natural history and the tine arts, Japanese
and Chinese museum, picture - galleries,
seven churches, a large number of chari-
table institutions, such as orphan and lu-
natic asylums, institutions for the improve-
ment of neglected children, and others
which distinguish larger cities, are to be
met with, as well as all the amusements,
and all the arrangements for convenience
and comfort, and for cheapness of living,
which are generally found only in first-
class cities.
The palace of Friedtnstein, which con-
tains the picture -gallery and museums, is
open to the public on Tuesday and Friday
from April 1 to October 31 gratis, and on
other days the fee is one thaler for a
party. In the picture-gallery there are
several fine paintings by Rembrandt, Ru-
bens, Van Eyck. Holbein, and Van der
Heist. In the Knit tkmnmer are many
valuable relics, among others the swords
of Charlemagne and John Sobieski. a pray-
er-book of James I., and a ring of Mary
Stuart. The library, Japanese and Chinese
museums, and museum of natural histo-
ry, are all in the same building. The col-
lection of medals and coins is considered
one of the first in Europe.
The theatre is a fine building, but open
only in winter. Close to it is the monu-
ment of Anio'di, founder of the life and
lire insurance companies in the town.
The D Tid Palace contains some good
pictures.
The " Almanach de Gotha" is the title of
a small book published here, which gives
you the pedigree of all the crowned heads
in Europe. Gotha has a large manufac-
tory of porcelain, and does considerable
trade in linen, woolen, and cotton fabrics.
Among other branches of its trade is that
of Gotha sausages, which are very fine, and
are sent to all parts of Germany. It also
does a large business in lacquered ware of
all kinds. A corner-house in the market-
place, now a school for girls, was the resi-
dence of the celebrated painter Crunack,
and bears his device, a winged serpent
Omnibuses daily (in 2 hrs. 30 m.) to the
great cloth manufacturing town ofLangen-
sa'z-i, noted for the battle between the
Hanoverians and Prussians in June, 1866.
Near the town are sulphur baths.
Eisenach, the capital of Saxc-Weimar-
Eisenach, is situated at the confluence of
the Xessa and Horsel, and contains 13,000
inhabitants. It was formerly one of the
most flourishing manufacturing towns be-
tween Leipzig and Frankfort. Its hotels
are H. Raute-nkranz and //. Htilbe Aland.
It is the principal town in the Thuringian
forest, and has been rendered famous from
the fact of Martin Luther having been de-
tained a prisoner in its C<i.t'i' qfWartbmy,
which is situated about 1J miles south of
the tov:n.
On the 4th of March, l.Vjl. as Luther
was returning to his home from the Diet
of Worms, where, in defiance of all threats
and the Pope's excommunication, he had
623
EISENACH.
[THE EMPIRE OF GERMANY.]
COBCRG.
boldly proclaimed the Protestant religion,
as he was entering the borders of the
wood his party was attacked by a body of
armed knights and dispersed ; he alone
was made prisoner. He was conducted to
the castle of Wartburg, where he discov-
ered the whole affair had been managed by
the order of his friend the Elector of Saxony,
who was present at the Diet when he left.
Although the Emperor Charles V. had giv-
en Luther assurance of safe-conduct, a de-
cree for his arrest was instantly sent after
him, and his sentence of death decided on.
The Elector's band reached him before the
warrant of arrest, and he was carried in
secret to Wartburg, where he remained for
ten months. He cultivated mustaches,
and passed at the castle for a j'oung noble-
man, thus screened by the friendly Elect-
or of Saxony until the first fury of the
storm had passed. The chamber which
Luther occupied in the castle contains his
portrait and that of his father and mother.
This room was the scene of his conflict
with Satan. There is an absurd story told
and believed that the Evil One appeared
before him gnashing his teeth and threat-
ening him with vengeance, whereupon Lu-
ther, who had defeated his foes with pen
and ink, thought he would try the ink
alone on the devil, and, seizing the ink-
stand, he hurled it with all his power at
the head of his satanic majesty, hitting his
imagination and the wall, making a
greater impression on the latter than Satan
did on the former. The hole in the wall is
now shown to the traveler.
In another part of the castle is the pict-
ure of St. Elizabeth of Thuringia, former-
ly a resident of the Wartburg, whose hus-
band was as hard-hearted as she was kind
and charitable to the poor. On one occa-
sion, when she had her apron filled with
food which ?he was about to bestow on the
hungry, her husl:and caught her in the
act, and, demanding what she had in her
apron, she replied, " Flowers ;" when, think-
ing to detect her in a falsehood, he tore
open her apron, and, lo and behold ! the
bread and cheese were transformed into
roses and lilies. She stands in the pict-
ure as if trembling for fear they will
change again. In another part of the cas-
tle are some beautiful suits of armor ; con-
spicuous among these is that of the rob-
ber-knight Kunz, of Kaufungen, who was
624
of gigantic stature: he was beheaded at
Freiberg for kidnapping two young Sax-
on princes. Also that of the Connetable de
Bourbon, who was slain while taking Rome
by assault; and those of the two Saxon
princesses Agnes and Kunegunde.
A fine excursion can be made to the
valley of Annatka!, sonic parts of which
are only three feet wide ! Three miles
from the valley is the Chateau of \\'ihe : ms-
tfni'. The return may be made by Ruhla,
a small but lovely watering-place.
[From Eisenach an excursion can be
made to Coburg. Time, 3 h. 30 m. : fare,
first class, 12 marks 4 g. ; second class, 7
marks 6 g.
One and a half hours from Eisenach the
watering-place of
Salzttng n K reached. This town is fine-
ly situated in the valley of the \Vtrra. It
possesses salt baths and an establishment
for inhalation of the vapor.
At Immelborn station a diligence runs in
forty minutes to the baths of Liebensti-in.
Wernshausen is the station for the an-
cient town of Schmalkalden, where the Prot-
estant League was drawn up by Luther,
Melanchthon, and other Reformers.
Wasu/igen, situated on the River Werra,
is an industrial town, and possesses an old
chateau.
Passing the ducal C/ist'e of LanJskrg. on
the right
M<-ining n is reached. This town con-
tains 8250 inhabitants. Principal hotel,
Sdchsischer Hof. This is the capital of
the Duchy of Saxe - Meiningen, and the
residence of the duke. It consists of an
old and new town. The Schloss in the
old town is used for government offices,
collections of natural history, modern and
ancient paintings, and a collection of en-
gravings. The present duke lives in a
new palace, which is surrounded by a fine
park. The church attached to the palace
has some fine stained-glass windows, ex-
ecuted in Munich.
r-A$*\ngHildbiirgkausen, the former resi-
dence of the dukes of Saxe-Hildliurghau-
sen. we arrive at Coburf/. Hotels, f.eut-
haiisfr. rictori:i. and Traube. Population,
12,750. This town, with Gotha, are the
town residences of the present Duke of
Saxo-Coburg-Gotha. It occupies a beau-
tiful position in the valley of the Itz, an
affluent of the Main, and is a clean and
[THE EMPIRE OF GERMANY.]
FRANKFORT.
pleasant town. Its former ramparts have
tciven place to elegant villas surrounded
by pretty gardens.
Tli'- -<''< Oti, or Khrenburg. was originul-
1\- a nmna.-tery. changed into a ducal resi-
dence by Duke Ernest I. in 154i. His
statue. I iy Schwa <tha!< /. stands in front of
the palace. Tliere are several line pictures
here in addition to numerous portraits
Qut't-n Victoria, Prince Albert, and others;
one apartment is devoted to gobelin tapes-
try. From the guard-house the traveler
ascends by steps to the Schlossgurten, which
extends along the slope of the hill, the sum-
mit of which is crowned by the old Castle,
nearly six hundred feet above the town.
and still in good repair. It was the former
residence of the Saxon dukes until Ernest
rebuilt the Srhloss. A portion of it is now
used as a Museum of Art and Antiquities.
The custodian expects a florin (two marks)
for a party.
In the centre of the city, in the market-
place, where the Rnthhatis. Arsenal, and
(lorernment ln.ildings stand, a statue of
Prince Albert was Inaugurated in 18G5, in
presence of Queen Victoria of England.
The tht'itre is owned by the prince, and
is well managed.
The diike lias numerous country-houses,
two of which are near Gotha, viz., Kallcn-
Ixr;/ and /,'iwn-tn, both surrounded by
splendidly wooded grounds. It was in the
latter that Albert, Prince-Consort of En-
gland, was born in 1^9, and here Queen
Victoria of England has resided during
various visits.
A branch railway leads to Sonncberg, a
town of 6000 inhabitants, noted for its
manufactories of dolls and other toys, boys'
marbles, hoiv.-s for sharpening razors, etc.
Licktenfelt junction, a town of 2000 in-
habitants, devoted to the lumber trade.
This is the junction of the line from Frank-
fort to Carlsbad, by Eger, etc.]
At Jtebrn junction the line turns to the
north to Cass,.l (^see Index), and south to
Futiln, a town of 10,500 inhabitants, with
nothing to detain the traveler.
<! Inhtinstn station, an ancient town of
the empire. On an island in the Kinzig
stand the ruins of a palace erected in llt>l.
Sixteen years later the Emperor Harha-
rossa here held a grand council to pro-
nounce the imperial ban against Henry the
Lion.
Passing Longfnsalbad station, where
there is a chateau, bought by Dom Miguel
of Portugal in 1850. Near this station is
the battle-field \\ here the French gained a
victory over the allies after their retreat
from Leipzig. The Russians, Austrians,
and Bavarians attempted to interrupt the
retreating French arm}', but they were
completely routed, and lost large numbers
in killed and wounded.
/fund'/, a manufacturing town of 20,000
inhabitants, situated at the confluence of
the Main and Kinzig. It was founded by
Protestants from Holland, to whom an
asylum had been refused at Frankfort.
The}- have carried on for centuries the
manufacture of silk and woolen goods, also
silver-ware.
Frankfort oit the - Main (described in
Route 163).
ROUTE No. 163.
Frankfort 'edberfj and
Gifssen. Time, 4 li. 1.'? m. fare, lirst class,
18 marks, or 9 fl. 27 kr. ; second class, 1:!
marks 30 pf.
Fruidforf was formerly a free city of
Gt nnany, but, owing to the fortunes of
war. was annexed to the kingdom of Prus-
sia October 8, 18GG. It is situated on the
025
FitANKFORT.
[THE EMPIRE OF GERMANY.]
right bank of tho River Main. Population,
149,309. Hotel d'Anykterre, a first-class
house, of European reputation.
Frankfort is one of the most ancient cit-
ies of Germany. Charlemagne had a pal-
ace'here, and held a council within its walls
in 794, and a century later it became the
commercial capital of Germany. In the
year 1154 it became a free city and the
sent of the German Diet, remaining such
until 1866. It is noted for the wealth of its
merchants, and for their commercial trans-
actions, their banking operations, and their
speculations in the funds. It is the native
place of the Rothschild family, one of
whom has a beautiful villa near the city.
The house in which the great banker was
born is shown ; it is situated in the Judm-
ga'sse (Jews' Street), No. 148. The bank-
ing-house is now situated at the corner of
Zeil and Judengasse. One side of the
last-named street was pulled down in 1872,
and the quarter is beginning to assume an
air of modern times. The city is connect-
ed with the suburb of Sachsenhausen by
an ancient stone bridge of fourteen arches,
950 feet long and 11 broad. Its former for-
tifications were demolished by the French,
and are now used as gardens and prome-
nades. The residences of the principal
bankers and merchants are on the most
magnificent scale, nearly all possessing a
very good collection of pictures and stat-
uary. The banks of the Main are lined
with spacious quaj's, and the streets in the
interior of the town have been widened and
much improved. A fine new street has been
opened from the Rossmarkt (the principal
square) to the Neue Mainzerstrasse ; on
this the new hotel is situated. The city
has two annual fairs, which are much fre-
quented for commercial purposes.
The Cathedral, or Djm, is an ancient edi-
fice of Gothic architecture ; its tower, which
is still unfinished, is 260 feet high ; it is
said to have been commenced in the 13th
century. One of the principal monuments
it contains is that of the Emperor Giinther,
who was killed by his rival, Charles IV. ;
also that of Rudolph of Sachsenhausen.
r n the election chapel all the emperors of
German}', from Conrad I. to Francis II.,
aiter being elected, were crowned in front
of the high-altar.
The Komer, or Town-hall, is noted only
for being the scene of festivities subse-
G2C
FRANKFORT.
1 quent to the election of the emperor. Here,
in the liauqueting-hall, he was entertained,
and kings and princes and the greatest
nobles of the land waited on him at table.
Opposite the hall, in the market-place, an
ox was roasted whole, from which the em-
peror ate a slice, and a fountain ran with
wine, from which the cup-bearer filled his
glass. The banqucting-hall is decorated
with portraits of all the emperors, forty -six
in number. In the election chamber may
be seen the "Golden Bull," by which the
Emperor Charles IV. arranged the manner
of conducting the elections of future em-
perors. Fee, 1 mark. Behind the Town-
hall, in St. Paul's Square, is situated the
church of St. Paul, where in 1848 the sit-
tings of the National German Assembly
were held, also the Horse, or Exchange, a
fine building, erected by Stieler in 1844.
The Exchange is open from 12 to 2.80.
The Stwlel Museum and Academy of
Painting (so named after its founder, a
rich banker and citizen, who, in 1810, be-
queathed $400,000, in addition to a large
collection of pictures and engravings, for
its foundation) is a handsome building,
and is open daily from 10 to 1, Saturdays
excepted : admission gratis. Some of the
modern pictures are very fine, particularly
those by Dutch and Flemi>h masters. Cat-
alogue costs CO pf. At the entrance are
busts of Raphael and Albert Dtirer. The
rooms to your left on entering contain
c.ists of antiques. Xcxt the /'/<, -YYWW',
on the ceiling of which is a fresco -by Vat
and llessemer, representing the introduc-
tion of the fine arts into Germany. Here
are casts of Ghiberti's bronze doors of the
Baptistery at Florence. Among the Italian
pictures are the Four Fathers of the Latin
Church at the Throne of the Virgin, by
Moretto, which cost 35,000 florins. There
are catalogues in each room.
Another sight of Frankfort is Danneck-
er's statue of Ariadne seated on a tiger. It
is in the villa of M. Bethman, and is con-
sidered by many judges one of the most
perfect productions of modern art. Out-
side of the Friedberg gate is situated the
colossal mass of granite rocks grouped to-
gether in memory of the Hessians who fell
defending Frankfort, the whole surmount-
ed by a military device cast from cannon
taken from the French. It was erected by
the King of Prussia. St. George's Hos-
FRAN
Hat
FORT.
9 J>en*mat(arl tiffr
10 DcnimaJ GoetJtt*
11 Dcnkm.Guttenterg's
L".' I'auls Kirohe.
23 Pcrman
!\-<<-rx Kircfie,
25 /W
brni-, Sirche
- " fu -/arm. KircAc < /'.
2b Ronicr
29 SaaUuff'
30 Stnkentery's
31 Statkl'j- JnttaU.
32 S? l*0nktinf Kirch
33
35 TufTianftalt,
36 1i
31 H r cuirfirulf!n> J&rrAc-
aid-Book
FRANKFORT.
[THE EMPIRE OF GERMANY. J
pital, the Public Library, and the Senken-
lnTic MtiM'um of Natural History, are all
well worth a visit. In front of th theatre
(a very fair one) is a monumental statue
erected to the poet Goethe, who was born
in r'ra;;kfort. The house is No. 71 in the
Hirsehgraben, and has his father's coat of
anus three /yns over the door. It con-
t-iins an mt<;Kst\ng,CollectionofCni-iosities.
' pf. ; Wednesday free. Goethe was
born here August 2*. 17-11'. A magnificent
bronze statue of Schiller was erected on
Schillerplatz in 1864.
The monument to Gutmbirg is situated
on the Kossmarkt. It was erected in 1858
by Launit/. The central figure, with the
types in his left hand, is Gutenberg; on
his right Fust, and left Scluijfer. On the
frieze are likenesses of celebrated printers,
and in the four niches the arms of the four
towns Mayeiu-e. Frankfort, Venice, and
Strasburg where printing was tirst prac-
ticed.
A magnificent new Opera House, some-
what resembling the Grand Opera at Paris,
was opened in 1881 ; it should be visited, as
the troupe is one of the best in Germany.
The house in the Domplatz where Luther
lived is pointed out.
The ancient fortifications of Frankfort
have been converted into Public Gardens,
which are one of the greatest attractions in
the city. During the summer fine bands
play twice daily, at four and at eight o'clock,
at the Zoological, and I 'aim Gardens. The
last is so named from a splendid collec-
tion of palm-trees, formerly belonging to
the Duke of Nassau, and purchased by the
city.
The o'd and jt<>/' r< </<}/..-, about _'-?.-
miles from the Friedbcrg gate, well :
a visit. They are situated in a clririnin^
position and contain some line monuments.
Notice particularly that of the Bethman
family, by Th iriral'lui n.
In the .Jewish burying-groiind there is a
beautiful monument, erected to the memory
v>f . \in.-chel Meyer Rothschild, the founder
cf the great banking-house.
A visit should lie made to the Imperial
Chocola'e Manufactory of Stollwerck Ki L,
of Coloirnr. the greatest establishment in
<Jermany (l.'di workmen and six engines
of SCO horse-power : eighteen court diplo-
mas and nineteen lir>t medals) ; has a very
liue salesroom at No. 3 Bockenheirnerstras-
HOMBURG.
se, which nobody should fail to visit. The
prices are fixed, anil low in comparison
with those of America and England.
Under the Frankfurter I/of is the Uni-
versal Reise - Bureau, where railway and
opera tickets, guides, money-exchange, and
numerous conveniences may be procured.
Near Frankfort, at the village of Born-
heim, Baron Charles Rothschild has a fine
estate called Giinsterberg, containing a large
collection of art treasures.
Carriages. One or two persons, 70 pf.
from or to the station ; in the city, 50 pf.
Sleeping-car office, 14 Bethmanstrasse.
Frankfort to Berlin, via Bebra; time, 12
h. ; fare. 48 marks 90 pf. (sleeping-car, 7.45
P.M.. 8 marks); via Nordhausen; time,
11^ h. (sleeping-car, 11 P.M., 8 marks) ;
to Paris; time, 13 h. -17 m.; fare, 67 marks
(sleeping-car, 5 P.M., 1.' marks); to Mu-
nirh ; time, 10 h. ; fare, 37 marks 40 pf. ;
to Dresden; time, 11 h. 25 m. ; fare, 46
marks 30 pf. ; to Cologne; time, 5 h. 5 in. ;
fare, 18 marks 30 pf. (see p. 694) ; to Co-
blent-.. Muyence, Wiesbaden, Heidelberg, and
Strasburg, see p. 694.
An excursion had better be made to Horn-
burg. Time by rail way, 30 and 40 minutes ;
fare, first class, 1 mark 80 pf. There is no
advantage in buying return tickets. Ho-
tels, Btllevue and De Hesse. The Bette-
vue, greatly frequented by Americans, is a
fine, tirst-class house, opposite the Casino.
The ]>< ll< sse is a good house, with moder-
ate charges, opposite the Casino. Homburg
was annexed to the kingdom of Prussia in
1866. It Mas quite an insignificant place
formerly; but after the establishment of
the baths and Kursanl it rapidly improved,
and became one of the most fashionable
places in German}'. .Since the suppression
of gambling in 1872 it has increased in at-
tractiven'--s.
Separated from the principal street by
an open space which is planted with shrubs
and bordered by orange-trees, stands the
Kursaal. which is decidedly the handsomest
in Germany. A beautiful portico fronts
627
OFFENBACH.
[THE EMPIRE OF GERMANY.]
MARBURG.
the street. A magnificent vestibule con-
ducts this visitor to the beautifully deco-
rated ball-room, which occupies the centre
of the building. On the left are the prin-
cipal saloons, elegantly decorated, and fur-
nished in the most gorgeous manner. On
the right there is a splendid saloon, beau-
tifully frescoed and furnished, in which
there is a table d'hote served daily at live
o'clock, with other rooms for refreshments.
There are also reading-rooms, supplied
with American, English, and Continental
journals, open freely to the public, with
private rooms for cards, chess, etc. In ad-
dition to the regular musical band which
the liberality of the management provides,
there are also gratuitous balls given week-
ly, and concerts three times a week. There
is also a handsome theatre. The principal
springs are the Elizabethbrunnen, the Kai-
serbrunnen, the Ludwig's and the Stahl-
brunnen, all of which are surrounded by
beautiful grounds, with splendid avenues
leading to them. The waters are considered
very efficacious in scrofulous diseases, indi-
gestion, and all diseases consequent on a too
free use of wines and ardent spirits.
The large wine-growing house of Hub.
Hiirter & Son, of Coblentz, has a branch
establishment here, No. 87 Louisenstrasse.
From Frankfort to Paris, via Binger-
briick, Saarbriick, and Metz (mail'), in 13
h. 47 m. ; fare, 67 marks ; second class, 50
marks 10 pf. Sleeping-cars. Ha Cologne,
18i h., same fare.
'Frankfort to Berlin. Time, 11J h. ; fare,
first class, 48 marks 00 pf.
Frankfort to Cologne. Time, 5 h. 5 m. ;
fare, first class, 18 marks 30 pf.
From Frankfort to Offenbach in twenty
minutes : this is a busy industrial town
containing 22,000 inhabitant.*.
In leaving Frankfort for Casscl the trav-
eler starts from the station at the west of
the town.
Bockenheim, two miles from Frankfort,
is a favorite holiday resort for the citizens
of Frankfort. It contains 7000 inhabitants.
Friedberg (Hotel, Trapp), containing
5000 inhabitants. It was formerly a free
city of the empire. It has an old castle
and two interesting churches.
Naithdm. Hotels, Be'l'W and d I I'.n-
t'ope. This is a watering-place for salt-
baths, and contains 5000 inhabitants. It
is finely situated at the base of a wooded
628
hill, the Johannisberg. It contains a Kur-
saal in a fine park with lake. The salt-
springs were granted by Napoleon to the
famous cavalry officer, General Kellcr-
mann. The fountain is inclosed in a brick
shaft, from the top of which is seen the
white jet. The water is conveyed through
pipes to a bath-house.
utzbach, a town of 2500 inhabitants,
three miles west of which is the castle of
Miinzenberff, destroyed during the Thirty-
years' War.
Giessen, situated on the River Lahn (Ho-
tels Kiihne and Elnhoni), contains 10,500
inhabitants. It is of comparatively mod-
ern origin, and the seat of a University
founded in 1607, frequented by 300 stu-
dents. There is a fine library attached
to the University.
[A railway to the left leads through Nas-
sau and Ems to Coblentz, passing Wetztar
once a free Imperial city, containing a line
cathedral of the eleventh century, and com-
manded by the ruin of Katsmnnt.
Weilburg. Hotel, Traube. Until 1816
the residence of the dukes of Nassau.
Weilburg. Their chateau is beautifully
situatsd on a rocky eminence, and is still
inhabited. Passing Runkel, an old town.
situated on the banks of the Lahn, and
Liinburg is reached. Tins line old town
is situated on the banks of the Lahn. and
contains 4500 inhabitants. Its seven-tow-
ered cathedral rises conspicuously in its
midst. Its architecture is pointed Gothic,
and is exceedingly interesting. It com
t;iins monuments of the princes of Nassau.]
Murbnrg (Hotels, PjMfft >' and Kilter),
finely situated on the River Ltthn, and
built in the form of a semicircle around
the hill, which is surmounted by the an-
cient castle of the Lnmlyrar: .- <f Hesse. It
became later a House of Correction, and
was well restored in I860. The interior
contains the archives of Hesse. The chapel
and knights' hall are well worth a visit.
This last is an immense apartment, and
remains in the same state as at the time
when Luther and Zwingli discussed the
question of the transubstantiation in the
presence of the Landgrave Philip.
The gem of Marburg is the church of
,S7. Kliz'ibf.th, constructed during the 13th
century, and restored in 1860. It is built
in the form of a cross, in the pure Gothic
stvle. This church was erected soon after
SOKAD.
[THE EMPIRE OF GERMANY.]
ALTENBUBG.
the death of Elizabeth, daughter of King
Andreas II. of Hungary, and wife of the
Landgrave Ludwig, and attracted thou-
sands of pilgrims from all parts of Europe,
among others the Emperor Frederick II.,
who placed a crown of gold upon the head
of the saint (Elizabeth was canonized in
1235 for the sanctity of her life). The
Landgrave Philip, who founded the Uni-
versity, to prevent the pilgrimages, caused
her remains to be removed to an unknown
spot in the church. The French carried
off the rich silver-gilt sarcophagus in 1810,
but it was restored in 1814. The mortuary
chapel is adorned -with carved representa-
tions of the coronation of the Virgin, and
pictures by Albert Durer. There are
numerous monuments of landgraves and
knights of the Teutonic Order.
The University was founded after the
Reformation, in 1527, by Philip the Gener-
ous, and contains about 'Ji.'O students.
At Kirchktiyn st.it'mn is seen the old city
of . 1 tiumeburg, with its ruined castle.
Passing G untershausen station, in three
miles
Catsel is reached. For description, see
Route Xo. 161.
ROUTE No. 164.
Berlin to Breslau, via Frankfort-on-tJie-
Oder. Time, 6 h. 50 m. ; fare, first class,
29 marks 70 pf. ; second class, 22 marks.
(Sleeping-car, 11 P.M., 8 marks.)
Frankfort, described in Route Xo. 154.
Guben is an industrial town of 20,000
inhabitants; then
'/, a town of no importance. At Hans-
dor/"junction there is a line to Gloynu. a
fortress of the second class, containing
'",000 inhabitants. The Cathedral, which
situated on an island, dates from the
h century, and contains a Madonna by
the elder Cranach. There are some cloth
manufactories, a town-hall, theatre, etc.
Bunzlau (Hotel, Kronprinz) contains
8700 inhabitants ; finely situated on the
iver Bober. In the market-place there is
VOL. II. E
an obel^k by Schinkel and Schadow to the
memory of the Russian general Kutusofif.
Jfdinau station, noted for a victory gained
by the Prussians over the French in 1813.
The town was destroyed by the- Hussites
in 1328, and all the inhabitants murdered.
Lieynitz (Hotel, Rautenkranz), situated
at the confluence of the Katzbach and
Schwarzwasser. Population, 20,150. This
was the ancient seat of the Piast family,
which flourished from the middle of the
6th to the middle of the 17th century, and
gave 123 dukes to Silesia and 24 kings to
Poland. The Catholic church contains the
tombs of the last branch of the Piasts, or
the Polonaise dynasty. The old Palace
near the station is now used by the govern-
ment.
On the Schulplatz there is a monument
to Frederick the Great.
Breslau, described in Route No. 165.
ROUTE No. 165.
Leipzig to Munich, via Eger (junction for
Franzensbad and Carlsbad, and Marienbad
and Vienna) and Regensburg.
Time to Eger, 5 h. 33 m. ; fare, 19 marks
50 pf. ; to Franzensbad. via Eger and
Tirschnitz, 6 h. 45 m., 20 marks 50 pf. ;
to Carlsbad, 9 h. 26 m., 24 marks 80 pf. ;
to Marienbad, via Eger, 8 h. 2 m., 22 marks
80 pf. ; to Vienna, via Eger, 11 h. 50 m.,
64 marks 30 pf. ; to Munich, 12 h. 10 m. ;
fare, first class, 49 marks 30 pf. ; second
class, 36 marks 90 pf.
This is the most direct line between Leip-
zig and Munich.
Attenburg (Hotel, de Russie), containing
18,500 inhabitants. This town is the cap-
ital of the Duchy of Saxe-Altenburg. No-
tice the peculiar costume of the peasantry
of the town and surroundings.
The Sch'oss, which is built on the slope
of a precipitous rock, was frequently the
residence of Charlemagne ; one portion of
it dates from the 13th century, the other is
more modern ; it contains an armory, and
is the residence of the ducal family. It waa
from this castle that the robber - knight
Kunz of Kaufungen, in 1455, stole the
Princes Ernest and Albert, who later be-
came the founders of the ducal and royal
family of Saxony.
629
GOSSNITZ.
[THE EMPIRE OF GERMANY.]
RATISBON.
Von Lindenau's Museum contains some
good modern pictures.
The Rathhaus, situated in the market-
place, is a good specimen of the Renaissance
style ; it dates from the middle of the 16th
century.
In the vicinity of Altenburg are the
Saxon tin-mines.
Gosmitz is a manufacturing town of
some importance, whence a railway to the
east leads to Chemnitz in 1 h. 30 m. ; also
one to the east to Gcra in 1 h. 20 m. This
last is an industrious manufacturing town,
containing 16,700 inhabitants. It is situ-
ated on the River Elster, and is mostly the
property of the Prince of Reuss-Ebersdorf,
to whom the picturesque castle belongs
which commands the town.
This branch extends to Neustudt and
Sadfeld. This last is a most picturesque
walled town in the centre of the Thuringian
forest, and contains a population of 5200
inhabitants. Hotels, Hirsch and Preussi-
scher H"f. Outside the walls there is a fine
chateau belonging to the family of Saxe-
Saalfeld. The old ducal Schloss is now a
mint.
The Gothic church of St. John has some
fine stained-glass windows.
Notice on the banks of the River Saale
the ruins of the fine old castle of Sorben-
burg, which dates from the 8th century.
Continuing on the route to Ratisbon,
passing Werdau station, where there is a
branch line to Zwick'tu,
Reichenbach is reached. Hotel, Lamm.
This is an important manufacturing town,
containing 12,000 inhabitants. Muslin,
cotton, wool, and thread arc its principal
productions.
The line now crosses the deep valley of
Golzfch by a viaduct 700 ygrds in length,
passing in the depth of the valley the final!
town and castle of Myl'U.
Passing numerous industrial towns of
no importance to the traveler, Adorf is
reached, near which is the bathing-place
of Elstcr. Next come the stations Bram-
bach and Voitersrenth. on the Austrian
frontier, where baggage is examined.
Eger Junction, whence Franzensbad (Rte.
169) is reached in 19 in., Carlsbad (Rte. 167)
in 1 h. 17 m., and Marienbad and Vienna in
47 minutes and 12 h. 15 m. respectively.
At Weiden station, a small town of 3000
inhabitants, the line from Coburg and
630
Baireuth joins the main line. Passing the
Walhallastrasse station, the line crosses the
Danube on a bridge over 600 yards long,
and reaches
Ratisbon, or Regensburg, the Castra Re-
gina of the Romans, containing 29,250 in-
habitants. Principal hotel, Goldenes Kreuz.
Barbara Blomberg, the mother of Don
John of Austria, was chambermaid in this
hotel. The room occupied by his father,
the Emperor Charles V., is still fitted up in
most elegant style for the reception of im-
perial guests, who always take up their
quarters here when on a visit to Walhalla.
It is beautifully situated on the Danube,
at the point where the Regen empties its
waters into that stream. It was for many
centuries one of the most important of the
imperial free cities, and was for one hundred
and fifty years the seat of the Imperial Diets.
It is surrounded by ramparts, now in a some-
what dilapidated condition. The river is
crossed by a stone bridge 1500 feet long.
The city still retains considerable of its
ancient commerce ; formerly a large por-
tion of the traflic of Europe passed through
it, when the Holy Crusaders emploj'ed its
boatmen to convey them down the Danube
on their way to the Holy Land. Ratisbon
is said to have sustained no less than sev-
enteen sieges, several of them accompanied
by bombardments, the last of which was
when it surrendered to Napoleon in 1809,
who was here wounded in the foot.
On several of the antique houses of Rat-
isbon one still can see the Eagle of the Em-
pire, the Lion of St. Mark, and the different
coats of arms of the principal nations of
Europe, whose representatives formerly re-
sided here in the Street of the Embassadors.
Many of the ancient houses are defended
with battlemented towers and loopholed
walls : the highest arc the Golden Tower,
and the Tower of Goliath ; on the last may
be seen a large representation of the giant.
The principal building is the Dome, or
Cathedral of St. Peter, a chef-d'reuvre of
architecture and sculpture, commenced in
1275, and finished in the early part of the
17th century; it was restored in 1838. It is
335 feet long, 160 wide, and 125 high. The
towers are still unfinished. The stained
glass windows arc done in Munich's mod-
ern style, and are very elegant. The church
contains numerous monuments: notice es-
pecially rh.;t of Bishop Dulbcr.:, designed
RATISBOX.
[THE EMPIRE OF GERMANY.]
RATISBON.
by Canova ; and the statue of the Virgin,
which stands in the north aisle ; also the
bronze monument of Marguerite Tucher,
by Vieher, a work of the early part of the
Kith century. Make the ascent of the
Asses' Tower (so called from the asses em-
ployed to carry the material up the inclined
plane which was used for the construction
of the building), from whence a magnificent
view of the Alps, Danube, and the Temple
of Walhalla may be obtained.
The RaMaus, or Hotel de Ville. in which
the Germanic Diet held their sittings for
irs, is a sombre and irregular edifice,
erected during the 14th century. In addi-
tion to some other pictures, it contains nu-
merous portraits of the principal men of
the imperial city. In the more ancient
portion of the building may be seen the
Hall of the Diet, with its chairs, tables, and
benches as in the days of the empire. Vis-
it by all means the dungeons and Chamber
of Torture, which still remain as in the
days when the refinement of cruelty was
in its highest state of perfection ; fee, 18 kr.
The ruins of the church of St. Emmeran
will well repay a visit. The abbey was
changed in 1830 into a residence for the
Prince of Thurn and Taxis. Visit the
Scotch ]lf-nr<Uctini> Church of St. James. It
was founded by a Benedictine monk named
Marian, who was driven from Scotland dur-
ing the usurpation of Macbeth in the llth
century : it contains some pictures, and a
very good library; ladies not admitted.
IV-hind the church is the Prince's Gar-
den, always open to the public; it commu-
nicates with the promenades, where there
are several monuments.
The new royal villa, built in the Gothic
style, near the Ostenthor, is a fine position
for an extended view.
An old stone bridge, which was con-
structed in the 12th century, uniting Ratis-
bon with its suburb, Stadt-am-Hof, was
completely destroyed by the French in
the battle'of April" 23d, 1809.
To visit the Temple of Walhalla (the prin-
cipal object in coming to Ratisbon) will oc-
cupy the day. One-horse carriage, 4 florins
24 kr.. two horses, 5 fl. 30 kr.. for one hour's
drive. The carriage leaves you at the foot
of the hill and returns to the village. The
road to fame is rather shabby a dirty vil-
lage to pass through ; but, once there, e very-
' ing is lovely. Wlkalla, or Temple of
[ Fame, lies six miles to the eastward of Ratis-
| bon ; it is situated on a hill over three hun-
| dred feet high, which rises above the north
bank of the Danube, and is seen at a great
distance. It was erected by the father of the
late King of Bavaria, and was designed to
contain the statues and busts of the most
distinguished men of Bavaria. The corner-
stone was laid in 1830, and it was finished
in twelve years, at an expense of eight mill-
ion florins. It is very similar in size and
style to the Parthenon at Athens. The ex-
terior is in the Doric, and interior in the
Ionic style. It is constructed entirely of
white marble, surrounded by 52 fluted Doric
columns, the roof being of iron, covered with
plates of copper. Its length is 218 feet,
breadth 102, and height 60. The interior
forms a saloon .of 160 feet in lergtb, 48 in
breadth, and 52 in height. The four walls
are divided in their height into two stories
by a cornice, on which fourteen virgin war-
riors, in color and form of caryatides, exe-
cuted by Schwanthaler, are carrying a
superior entablature, richly ornamented in
blue and gold. At the northern end, oppo-
site the principal entrance, is a recess des-
tined to contain the statue of the royal
i founder. Under the cornice runs a con-
! tinuous frieze, by Wagner, representing a
history of the Germanic race down to the
introduction ofChristianity. The side walls
are divided into three compartments each ;
in these are placed Rauch's six figures of
Victory, each worth 20,000 thalers. Over
the frieze are sixty-four tablets let into the
1 wall, with inscriptions in gold ; beneath
are the white marble brackets on which
arc placed the busts of the great and good
whom Bavaria delights to honor. The
pavement is of different colored marbles.
The whole is lighted by ground-glass win-
i dows in the roof, and one window at the
north end.
Among the 101 busts may be seen those
of Catherine II. of Russia, Count Joseph
Radetzky, Rubens, Van Dyck, Moritz von
Sachsen, Maria Theresa, Rudolph von Haps-
burg, "Dr." Martin Luther, Mozart. Schil-
ler, Goethe, Albert Durer, Wallenstein, and
Charlemagne. The custodian points out
the places No. 102. 103, H>4. which, h-
are for the Emperor William, Bismarck,
and Moltke.
At the village of Donaustauf, through
which we pass, notice the castle of the
631
LANDSHUT.
[THE EMPIRE OF GERMANY.]
SAXONY.
Prince of Thurn and Taxis. It is sur-
rounded by a beautiful garden, always
open to the public. The hereditary prince
is still a boy of 14 years (187G). There is
a small hotel here, the Walhalla.
From Ratisbon to Nuremberg. Time, 2 h.
13 m. ; fare, first class, 6 marks 70 pf.
From Ratisbon to Vienna. Time, 10 h. ;
fare, first class, 41 marks 20 pf.
From Ratisbon to Munich occupies by
express 2 h. 55 m. There is very little to
interest the traveler over this route. Pass-
ing Mooshain station, southwest of which
lies the battle-field of Eckmuhl, where, on
the 22d of April, 1809, the French Marshal
Davoust gained a decided victory over the
Austrians. He was rewarded by Napoleon
with the title of Prince of Eckmuhl for his
successful generalship.
At Geiselhfiring junction a line branches
ofF to the east for Passau and Vienna.
Landshut, situated on the borders of
the Isar, containing 14,250 inhabitants.
Principal hotel, Kronprinz. The town
has a very picturesque appearance, with
its numerous towers and church spires.
The principal churches are St. Martin's,
St. Jodocus, and the church of the Holy
Ghost.
In front of the Government Hotel is a
monument to Lewis the Rich, founder of
the University of Ingolstadt, which was
brought here in 1800, but transferred to
Munich in 1826.
The Castle of Trausnilz is situated on an
eminence above the town. It was former-
ly the residence of the dukes of Lower
Bavaria, and many of the apartments are
in fine order. Frederick of Austria was
confined here for three years by Lewis the
Bavarian.
Passing the ancient town of Afoosburg,
finely placed on the banks of the Isar, the
chain of Alps now appear, and Freising is
reached. This town has been the seat of
an episcopal see since the 8th century.
The cathedral dates from the 12th century ;
but it was so disfigured by the restoration
it experienced in the 18th century that
there is nothing but the crypt under the
cathedral which merits notice.
Outside the town is a monument erected
to the memory of Count Abensberg, who
was killed in a combat with a Bavarian
duke in 1455.
On the height to the west stands the
C32
Abbey of Weihenstephen, transformed into
an agricultural school.
Munich. For description see Route No.
172.
ROUTE No. 16C.
Berlin to Dresden. For description of
Berlin, see page 561. Time, 3 h. 4 m. ;
fare, nvst class, 17 marks 40 pf. ; second
class, 12 marks 20 pf.
Take your ticket to Dresden ; A Itsladi (or
"old tovvn") is the second station in Dres-
den, where all the best hotels and principal
sights are ; do not allow porters to entice
you to get out at the first station.
To Jiiterbog junction, see Route No. 160,
from whence the train pursues an easterly
route, joining the line from Leipzig at the
station lioderuu.
SAXONY.
The Kingdom of Saxony comprises one
of the finest portions of Germany. It is
inclosed by the dominions of Austria, Prus-
sia, and Bavaria. It contains 5854 square
miles and 2,556,224 inhabitants, and is fa-
vored alike by nature in regard to climate
and soil. Its mineral resources are great
silver, lead, and copper ores being found in
abundance ; also tin, cobalt, iron, and zinc.
The excellence of its fine breed of sheep
has made its wool celebrated in all coun-
tries. The forests furnish a most abundant
supply of fuel. Its manufactures of china
and fine cloth have always commanded the
highest admiration.
It is divided into four circles, which are
named after the principal town of each,
viz.: Dresden, Leipzig, Zwickau, and Baut-
zen.
Its monarchy is constitutional and hered-
itary. The receipts and expenses of the
government are 47,000.000 marks each,
and its public debt 340,000,000 marks.
Its army forms the twelfth army corps
of the Empire of Germany.
The royal house of Saxony is the branch
Albertine, or branch cadet (Catholics).
The reigning sovereign is Albert-Fred-
erick- Auguet-Antoine - Ferdinand - Joseph-
ORE
1 tCantuluJlcx SoUt>.
2 Frinztn. fttlcds
3
16 LandJicuu
17 ^W.fiw/
18 fblytedtn.. fnjttiut,
19 Japajiifchej Palai*r
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21 rwn<4uyujt JT
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I Boolt
SAXONY.
[THE EMPIRE OF GERMANY.]
DRESDEN.
Charles-Marie-Baptiste-Nepomucene-Will-
iam-Xavier-George-Fidele, horn April 23,
1828, and married to the Queen Carol ine-
Frederique - Fran9oise - Stephanie - Amelie-
Cecile, daughter of Gustave, prince of
Wasa, born August 5, 1838.
Dresden. On arriving at tlie station,
metal tickets are distributed indicating the
number of carriage to which the traveler is
entitled. Fares, 1 person 70 pf., 2 persons
80 pf., at night 1 m. 30 pf. ; two-horse car-
riages the regular course, 1J marks ; if the
bridge be crossed, 10 pf. more. The fares
are double after 10 P.M. The proprietors
of hotels generally have good private car-
riages to let, 15 to 20 marks per day ; 4 m.
per hour.
Dresden, the capital of the Kingdom of
Saxony, is situated in a fertile plain upon
both banks of the Elbe. It has 225,000 in-
habitants. The principal hotels are the
Victoria Hotel and Hotel de Bellevue, two of
the best in Germany. The city is com-
posed of the Altstadt (old town) on the left
bank of the Elbe, and the Nevstadt (new
town) on the right. Three bridges con-
nect the two banks of the river. Various
lines of tramways, built in the last few years
by an American, connect the city with the
different railroad stations, suburbs, and vil-
lages. All that is known of the origin of
Dresden is that it was founded by Slavoni-
ans and enlarged by German colonists. At
the beginning of the llth century Dresden
was already a city, belonging to the bish-
opric of Meissen ; it subsequently became
the residence of the margraves of Meissen,
and upon the partition, in 1484, fell to the
Albertine line of Saxony, the present royal
family of Saxony. The city suffered much
in the Thirty Years' War. It attained its
greatest splendor under the electors of Sax-
ony, who were kings of Poland, especially
in the reigns of Frederic Augustus I. and
II. The Seven Years' War did much dam-
age, it having been several times occupied
by the Prussians. In 1760 it .was bom-
barded by them, and 500 houses destroyed.
From 1806 to 1815 the city was occupied
several times by the French. The fortifi-
633
DRESDEN.
[THE EMPIRE OF GERMANY.]
DRESDEN.
cations were pulled down in 1810. In 1812
Napoleon assembled a Congress of Sover-
eigns there ; and in 1813 lie obtained a vic-
tory over the allied arms under its walls,
Moreau being killed in the battle. The
King of Saxony re-entered his capital in
June, 1815, and the ancient ramparts were
transformed into promenades. The revo-
lution in 1848 and 1849 did a great deal of
damage to the city. The kings Antoine
(deceased 1836) and Frederick Augustus
(deceased 1854) did much for the embel-
lishment of Dresden, which is now one of
the finest cities in Europe.
The most attractive quarter is the The-
ater Platz, near which are the principal ob-
jects of interest to the tourist. Upon this
place are the Zwinger, with its rich collec-
tion?, the Royal Palace, the Catholic Church,
and the Opera-house. Near the church is
the old bridge across the Elbe, a solid stone
structure, originally built with the money
raised by the sale of dispensations from the
Pope to eat butter and eggs during Lent.
At the end of the bridge, and extending
along the quay of the river, is the Brithl
Terrace, a favorite promenade, upon which
are the Palace of Rruhl and the Hall of the
A cademy of Fine A r/s.
On the opposite side of the river, about
midway between the old bridge and the
railway bridge, is the Japanese Palace, the
gardens of which extend to the river.
The Catholic Church was finished in 1756.
The grand altar -picture represents "The
Ascension," by Raphael Mengs, and there
are many other German and Italian pict-
ures of the 18th century. Under the sac-
risty are the vaults of the royal family ; 64
statues of saints adorn the aisles. The mu-
sic in this church (on Sundays, from 11 to
12, and at 4) is celebrated.
The Royal Palace, or "Schloss," a large
square of three or four stories, flanked by
numerous galleries and dependencies, and
inclosing three courts. The principal body
of the building by the side of the Catholic
church is surmounted by a tower 387 feet
high, the highest in Dresden. The palace
was built in the 14th century, and enlarged
in the 16th and 17th centuries ; the interior
is worthy of inspection. It contains sev-
eral pictures by modern artists ; and the
royal chapel is adorned with works of Ru-
bens, Rembrandt, Guido Reni, Caracci, and
Mengs. The great audience -rooOT, occu-
634
pied by Napoleon during his stay in Dres-
den, is adorned with paintings by Sylvestre.
The Theatre Royal, built 1837-1841, from
the designs of Semper, was burned down in
1869, but is replaced by the magnificent
Opera-house, from the designs of the young-
er Semper, since 1878. The front is deco-
rated by Johannes Schilling's bronze group
Dionysus and Ariadne on a carriage drawn
by four panthers. It contains a parquet and
five galleries, giving room to more than 2000
persons. The staircase and foyer arc built
of marble, with exquisite taste. The stage
is of immense extent, and the boxes of the
king and Prince George, as well as the
large Slaatsloge in the centre, are richly
furnished. The south side of the Theater
Platz is closed by the Zwinger, the construc-
tion of which was commenced under Au-
gustus II., at the beginning of the 18th cen-
tury. One side of the Zwinger is occupied
by the New Gallery. The Zwinger contains
most of the public collections in Dresden.
The Frauenkirche, or Church of Our Lady,
on the Neumarkt, was built 1726-1734, and
is capped by a dome which, in the siege of
1760, resisted bombs of the heaviest cal-
ibre. A very fine view may be enjoyed
from the lantern : it is 384 feet above the
street. Fee to the sacristan, J mark. It
has a famous organ, built in 1736, by Sil-
bermann, with 44 registers and 6000 pipes.
The Kreuzkirche, or Church of the
Cross, is in the Kreuzstrasse. The first
church of the name, dating from the llth
century, was destroyed by fire in the bom-
bardment of 1760. The present church was
built 1764-1792, and forms an oblong square
247 feet long by 174 feet wide, surmounted
by a tower 345 feet high, composed of three
stories with columns. It contains some
good sculptures.
The Johanneskirche, corner of Pillnitzer-
stra?se and Eliasstrasse. Built in Gothic
style by Miickel in the years 1874-1878.
The interior sculptural works were done
by Kietz and others.
The English Church, corner of Beust-
strasse and Wienerstrasse, built in Gothic
style from the designs of the English archi-
tect St. Aubyn, is richly decorated with
painted window?.
The Russian Church, at the end of the
Reichsstrasse. was built by Herr von Bosse
in 1874. It is a point of attraction on ac-
count of its decorations and glass paintings.
DRESDEN.
[THE EMPIRE OF GERMANY.]
Next to it is the American Church of St.
John, built in Gothic style by the architects
Sommerschuh and Rumpcl in the year 1884.
The painted windows and the altar are pres-
ents of Americans.
The Bruhl J'aace was built in the 18th
century by Count Bruhl. Prime-minister of
Augustus II. It was occupied in the Seven
Years' War by the King of Prussia ; in 1813
by the Emperor Alexander ; and contains
at present the private collection of prints
of the late King Frederick Augustus.
The Botanic Garden is near the Bruhl
Terrace. The former A rsenal, not far from
the Botanical Garden, has been replaced by
a magnificent new edifice in the Albertstadt,
under the auspices of the kings Johann and
Albert of Saxony ; it contains ample rooms
for arms and munitions.
The Japanese Pahice, in the Neustadt, an
edifice in Dutch style, was built in 1715 for
Field-marshal Count Fleming. King Fred-
erick Augustus I. bought it in 1717, en-
larged and embellished it, and used it as
a summer residence. Frederick Augustus
III. presented it to the State, and it now
contains the Museum <>f Antiquities and the
Roycd I'uhlic Library. Attached to it is the
magnificent Pa'ace Garden, partly laid out
as a French garden and an English park.
From the small hill in it an admirable pan-
oramic view of Dresden and the banks of
the Elbe may be had.
The principal collections of pictures, en-
gravings, and casts arc in the Netc Museum,
the Zwinger. The New Museum was built
in 1854 from the plans of Semper. The
edifice forms an oblong square 49'2 feet long
by CO feet wide, and 95 feet high. The
grand entrance is in the form of a trium-
phal arch, with statues of Raphael and Mi-
chael Angelo in th3 niches; upon the cap-
itals of the columns are statuettes of St.
George, Friedrich Siegfried, and Samson ;
on the attic are statues of Giotto, Holbein,
A. Durer, and Cornelius. Numerous reliefs
adorn the facade. The edifice is formed of
a ground-floor and three upper stories. The
ground - floor contains the public collection
of prints and tngrarintjs. The :;r:ind stair-
of imposing proportions, and its bal-
ustrade is richly ornamented.
The Picture Gallery, the finest collection
in Germany, contains 2500 pictures and six
carpets from designs of Raphael. The gal-
lery was founded by Augustus I., and large-
DBESDES.
ly increased by Augustus II. and Augustas
III., the last of whom added to it the Modena
Gallery at a cost of 200, 000. It is classified
in schools and in chronological order. For
the proper study of this gallery the cata
logue of M. Hubner, which may be purchased
at the entrance, will be found very useful.
The gallery is open to the public every
week-day from 9 to 3 ; on Sundays and hol-
idays from 11 to 2. Admission, excepting
Mondays, Wednesdays, and Saturdays, 50
pf. ; and on Sundays. 25 pf.
The following are a few of the most re-
markable paintings: Raphael's "Madonna
ili San Sisto,'' the acknowledged gem of the
collection. It is in the best style of the great
master, and was painted only a few year-;
before his death. A room is set apart for
this picture, and at the farther extremity
another room is set apart foi the mas-
terpiece of the younger Holbein, "Jacob
Meyer, Burgomaster of Basle, with his
family, kneeling before the Virgin." This
is considered the greatest treasure of the
gallery, next to the great work of Ra-
phael. Correggio: "The Virgin and the
Infant Jesus in the Manger," consid-
ered the best work of the painter. Ti-
tian : " Tribute Money," "The Virgin and
Child and Saints," "Reclining Venus."
Albrecht Durer : "Crucifixion," portrait of
a man in black. Rembrandt : Portrait
of his mother; his own portrait, with his
wife sitting on his knee. Rubens: "The
Judgment," ''The Boar Hunt." Ruysdael:
' ; The Hunt." Vandyke: "Charles, his
Queen, and their Children." Portrait of
Rykatrt the painter. The portrait in
crayon of "La Belle Chocolatiere," once a
waitress in a cafe in Vienna, and a cele-
brated beauty, afterwards married to an
Austrian of rank, is much admired.
The gallery has been considerably in-
creased by purchases in the last years of
modern masters : Kaulbach, Achenbaeh,
Defregger, Pohle, Preller, Hubner, Wisli-
cenus, and others.
The Historical Museum, or Rast-Kammer,
formerly in the Ziciiiger.AnA combined with
the Gewehr-Gallerie, is contained now in
the old Picture-Gallery on the Neumarkt,
ciTiier of Augustus Strasse. This building
is very remarkable on account of its wall
pictures along the Augustus Strasse, repre-
senting all the ancestors of the House of
Wettin, and especially the Albertine line,
G35
DRESDEN.
[THE EMPIRE OF GERMANY.]
DRESDEN.
in chronological succession. This collec-
tion, the richest of its kind in Germany,
contains arms and armor of ancient Ger-
man}', costumes, and other objects of his-
torical interest. In the entrance-hall is a
cupboard once used by Luther, his drink-
ing-cup and sword; in the hunting-room,
No. 2, the hunting-horn of Henry IV. of
France; in the battle-room, No. 4. the ar-
mor of Gustavus Adolphus, which he left
at Weissenfels before the battle of Lutzen.
with his baton of command and sword, and
the armor of John Sobiesky ; in the pistol-
room, the pistol of Charles XII. of Sweden,
and of Louis XIV. ; in the parade-room, the
hat and sword of Peter the Great, a saddle
used by Napoleon, and the boots which he
wore at the battle of Dresden.
Open on even' week-day from 10 to 2 ;
Sundays and holidays from 11 to 2. Ad-
mission, week-days, 50 pf. ; Sundays and
holidays, 25 pf.
The collections, formerly in the Japanese
Palace, have been exhibited in the old
Picture-Gallery . called Johanneum, in the
Royal Castle, with the exception of the
collection of antiquities or Augusteum..
It occupies twelve apartments of the
ground -floor. It was founded in 1725
by Augustus I., who bought it of Prince
Chigi, and has been augmented by the col-
lection of Count Briihl.
It is open week-days from 10 to 2 ; Sun-
days and holidays from 11 to 2. Admis-
sion, 50 pf. on week-days; Sundays and
holidays free.
This museum contains busts of sover-
eigns of Saxony, the Borghese Gladiator,
the Amazon, repaired by Thorwaldsen,
Adrian as a Gladiator, and busts of many
Roman emperors, and of mythological per-
sonages.
The tenth saloon contains bronze figures
and Egyptian antiquities ; the eleventh,
vases and other objects of antiquity in terra
cotta ; the twelfth, Saxon antiquities.
The Keramic collection, in the second floor
of the Johanneum, contains over 600.000 ob-
jects, classified in chronological order, from
the earliest productions of Boettger to the
modern products of the royal manufactory
at Meissen. There is a rich collection of
porcelains of Sevres, China, and Japan.
The Royal Library, still in the Japanese
Palace, occupies three galleries and twenty-
four paloons, and contains nearly 250,000
G36
volumes, 2000 early editions of early works,
3000 and more manuscripts, and a rich col-
lection of geographical charts.
The Grune Gervolbe, or fi Green Vaults," in
the Eoyal Palace, is a collection of artistic
' objects which is considered the richest of
its kind in Europe. They amount in num-
ber to 3000, and occupy eight saloons. In
the first saloon are bronzes ; in the second
I ivory carvings ; in the third mosaics, shells,
corals, etc. ; in the fourth objects of gold
and silver ; in the fifth engraved stones and
precious objects of crystal; in the sixth
wood carvings and the insigniasof the Polish
coronation ; and in the seventh objects of
alabaster, jewels, pearls, and sculptures,
comprising more than 250 objects of great-
est value contained in the so-called Kleines
Cabinet, in the corner. Of this number
I there are more than 100 carved in ebony
and ivory ; a pearl of the size of a hen's
egg, representing the dwarf of Charles If.
of Spain; pearls transformed into gr<>'
personages; a golden egg inclosing a uoM
en fowl ; a crown, a signet-ring, and a dia-
mond ring ; a basket of flowers in enamel ;
an automaton spider ; some vases of onyx ;
two bracelets ornamented with shell cam-
eos, and some pictures in enamel. In the
eighth (the most interesting of all), arms,
jewels, and other articles of value, especial-
ly the works of Dinglinger, a celebrated
goldsmith of the 18th century. His most
celebrated work is " The Court of the Great
Mogul," a group in gold and enamel, upon
a plate of silver four feet four inches square,
of 132 persons. The artist, with his fam-
ily and fourteen workmen, were occupied
upon this work for eight years, and re-
ceived for their labor 58,400 thalers. Here
is also the largest piece of onyx known,
six and two thirds by two and one quar-
ter inches. In this room is the Saxon re-
galia, including the electoral sword borne
by the Saxon princes at the coronations,
and a large and costly collection of chains,
collars, and orders formerly worn by the
Saxon princes, including the Garter, the
Golden Fleece. Polish Eagle, etc. One case
is filled with sapphires, emeralds, rubies, and
pearls ; another with diamonds, among which
is the famous green brilliant, weighing forty
carats.
We have already mentioned the Briihl
Terrace, the alleys which separate the town
from the suburbs, the Botanical Garden,
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[THE EMPIRE OF GERMANY.]
DRESDEN.
and the Japanese Palace gardens ; besides
which is the Grosser Garten, laid out in the
17th century, and embellished by Augustus
II., being the most extensive public park
in Saxony. It lost a great part of its stat-
ues in the wars of the present and last cen-
tury. It is the principal pleasure-ground
of the people of Dresden, containing a num-
ber of cafes and restaurants. The basin of
the swans, and some groups and vases in
marble are noticeable.
Combined with the Grosser Garten is the
Zoological Garden, containing a number of
rare aninuils.
We further mention as a public prome-
nade the Anlagen of the Burgtrweise, which
is a splendid specimen of horticultural
art.
Beside the Picture-Gallery is the statue
of Carl Maria von Weber, and before the
Hotel de Saxc the monument of King Fred-
crick Augustus II.
In the centre of the Altmarkt is the stat-
ue of Germania, and in front of the Kreuz-
schule the statue of Theodor Korner. Near
the end of the Augustusbriicke, Neustadt,
is the equestrian statue of Augustus the
Strong (II.).
Worth seeing are the two bronze lions in
front of the two infantry barracks in the
Albertstadt.
A wonderful view all over Dresden may
be enjoyed from the Carolabriicke, connect-
ing the barracks in the Albertstadt, and
separated by the small river 1'riessnitz.
Very noticeable is the monument of Mo-
reau, in Rackintz, from which the tourist
has an admirable panoramic view of Dres-
den and the Saxon Switzerland.
Connected with the consulate is the
American banking-house of Robert Thode
& Co., a firm well known to all American
travelers, and deserving to be recommend-
ed in every respect ; they keep registers of
Americans, and have fine reading-rooms.
All banking and exchange business is trans-
acted there, as well ns letters of credit
cashed and issued. Tickets for all great
steamer lines are to be had there.
Messrs. Schloessmann & Schcffler, No. 26
Rosenstrasse, commission agents, highly
recommended by the American bankers,
Messrs. Thode & Co., attend to the forward-
ing of all kinds of goods to America.
The principal manufacturers of damask,
table-linen, and linen sheeting in Dresden
are Messrs. Proelss' Sons, corner of See and
Waiscnhaus Strasse, No. 8, opposite the Vic-
toria Hotel ; they also keep a large stock
of ready-made linen, embroideries, shirt-
ings, huckabacks, and diaper towelings.
For paintings, Buckner & Ernst ; and for
photographs, Arnold can be recommended.
637
DRESDEN.
[THE EMPIRE OF GERMANY.]
DRESDEN.
Dresden to Paris. Time, 28 h. 20 m. ;
fare, iirst class, 107 m. 30 pf.
Dresden to Vienna,via Lissa, by the North-
ern of Austria Railway (sleeping-car route~),
in 11 h. 44 m. ; 54 m. 70 pf. (See Route 186.)
Dresden to Berlin. Time, 3 h. 4 m. ; fare,
first class, 17 m. 40 pf.
When second class is not given, the dif-
ference is about 38 per cent, less than the
first class.
A short distance from Dresden, and near
the village of Racknitz, is the monument
erected to Jean Victor Moreau, who was
shot in the legs by a cannon-ball at the
battle of Dresden. His legs were ampu-
tated by Sir James Wylie. He was in the
service of Alexander, emperor of Russia,
and was at the moment he was shot recon-
noitring the movements of the French
army. The monument consists of a gran-
ite block surmounted by a helmet; under
this his legs are buried; his body was
conveyed to St. Petersburg, where in the
Catholic church of that city you may see
a marble slab which recounts the brilliant
deeds and unfortunate end of the hero of
Hohenlinden.
The excursions in the vicinity of Dresden
are numerous, conspicuous among which
is that to the Saxon Switzerland why
called Switzerland we hardly know, as the
scenery of the two countries is entirely
different. The River Elbe flows through
the centre of this beautiful country ; and
we advise all persons visiting Dresden
during the summer months to make excur-
sions to Pillnilz, Bastei, Ottowalder Grund,
Konigstein, Kuhstall, and Winterberg.
Good walkers can " do" most of these
delightful places in two days, and much
may be seen in one, with very little walk-
ing. If the traveler has no courier, a valet
de place had better be taken from Dresden.
638
The railroad and carriages had better be
taken as far as Schandau, and return by
boat to Dresden.
Or make the different excursions on dif-
ferent days. For instance, by rail to Pot-
scha, which is the station for the Bastei;
by rail to Konigstein, which is the station
for that fortress ; and to Krippen, which is
the station for Schandau and Kuhstall.
Guides may be found at the different
stations. The usual fare is one thaler per
day. Horses, ponies, and donkeys may be
hired at the different stations ; also chaise a
porteurs for ladies who can not ride. Boats
may also be hired along the banks of the
Elbe.
The cars start from the old town (Alt-
stadt), and, after passing the Great Garden,
the town of Pirna, above which stands the
castle of Sonnenstein, we arrive at Pilnitz,
the summer residence of the king. The
palace, which is modern, having been erect-
ed in 1818, contains some very fine frescoes
by Vogel. The conservatories, gardens,
and pleasure-grounds are very fine.
At Potscha we cross the Elbe by ferry
to visit the Bastei, the name given to one
of the most singular rocks in Europe, from
the top of which (COO feet above the river
"which sweeps round its base) one of the
most lovely views may be had. Along the
banks of the river, and over the plain, huge
columnar masses start up, even to a height
of 1200 feet; conspicuous among these are
the hills of Kunigstein and Lilienstdn. The
first is a virgin xortress, never yet having
been captured. Here, for ages, in time
of war, the treasures of the Green Vaults
in Dresden are stored by their Saxon
monarch?, and cases are always ready at
hand to store them in. Napoleon tried
to batter this fort from its neighbor Lilien-
stein, but without effect. Two years' pro-
visions for one thousand men can be stored
here, and water is drawn from a well cut
in the rock over GOO feet deep. Make the
ascent by all means ; the view from the
top is nowhere surpassed.
The natural obelisk of Lilienstein sur-
passes its opposite neighbor in height by
160 feet, and is the highest of these isolated
mountains. It is accessible by means of
ladders and paths cut in the rock.
From the Bastei to Schandau there is a
carriage-road, from whence an excursion
should be made to Kuhstall (Cow-stable),
TEPUI-Z.
[THE EMPIRE OF GERMANY.]
CARLSBAD
whicn is six miles distant. This is a most
singular cave or arch cut in the solid rock,
800 feet above the sea, wh'Tc many persons
have taken refuge in stormy times.
even, 1 season. It is considered the cheap-
est and most fashionable watering-place in
Europe. Dinners at the table d'hote about
33 cents, and a parlor and bedroom for five
dollars per week. There were diplomatic
Congresses held here in 1813 and in 1835.
The village of Schotiau is at the present
time a portion of Teplitz, being united to
it by a range of houses, among which are
the Xeubad, Sfrin'jtt I. and Schlangenbad ;
also the Public Baths, the Military Austrian
Bath, the Jews' Bath, and Prussian and
Saxon Military Baths.
A visit should be made to the Schloss-
iberg, about two miles from the town ; it is
surmounted by the ruins of a castle, from
whence there is a delightful view.
To the Millfsch'Mter, a mountain about
2500 feet high, is a fine excursion. Time,
3 hours.
Teplitz is connected with the line from
Time, 7 h. 34 m. ; fare, first class, 19 m. 40 j Vienna to Dresden by a branch line to
pf. ; second class, 15 m. 70 pf. Aussig, where travellers coming from Vicn-
Bodenbach, described in Route Xo. 185. na should change cars. The time is 40
Teplitz is celebrated for its warm springs, minutes from that station to Teplitz.
the medical properties of wlii.-h attract vis- Teplitz to Carlsbad, via Kommotau Junc-
itors from every part of the Continent. Pop- tion, in 3 h. 47 m. ; fare, 3 gl. 90 kr.
ulation, 8500 ; Hotels: Kiinig ron Prevssen,
Post, Xtitdt London, etc. The baths of
Teplitz, alkaline-saline (26-39 R.) are most
efficacious in cases of gout, rheumatism, Carlsbad (Hotel National, in a fine
neuralgia, and other nervous diseases, scrof- position on the hill, close to the baths
ulous growths and swellings, shot and sabre and park) contains a permanent popula-
wounds, broken bones, stiffness of joints ; tion of 3000 inhabitants, and is very
the mud-baths are also in high repute.; romantically situated in a narrow valley,
The bath establishments are numerous and i surrounded by hills covered with every
very comfortable: the Strt'ltba-1, Kaiser- j variety of foliage, and affording the most
bad, Steinbad, SMtngenbud (belonging to extensive and varied prospect. It is
ROUTE No. 1C7.
Dresden to Carlsbad, via Bohnbach.
(belonging
Schonau)are open, with the exception of the
Schlangenbad, summer and winter. There
is a fine theater, kursanl, with orchestra,
military music, a reading-room in Teplitz
and in Schonau, balls, etc.. etc. A bath
costs about 40 kr. ; one hour allowed. In
considered one of the most aristocratic
and fashionable watering-places in Eu-
rope, although the hotels are not by any
means the best, and as many as 17,000
visitors arrive here yearly. The springs
were first discovered by the Emperor
1883 visitors numbered over 30, 000. There! Charles IX. while hunting in the neigh-
are many good physicians. The principal
place of resort is the palace and the gar-
dens of the Prince of Clary. Behind
the Schloss rises an imitation castle, and
from the Schlackenburg there is a beauti-
ful prospect. On another prominent posi-
tion stands a monument of Frederick Will-
iam III., king of Prussia. The prome-
nades are very delightful. Teplitz owes its
celebrity to the number of crowned heads
and nobility of Europe who resort here
borhood. One of his dogs fell into the
Sprudel, which is the principal spring,
and the hottest in Europe (165 Fahr.).
The cries of the poor animal soon
brought the hunters to the spot. The
emperor was suffering at the time from
wounds received in battle. His phy-
sician recommended these waters, and his
wounds were cured in a miraculously short
time. He gave his name to the spring,
and endowed it with his patronage.
639
CARLSBAD.
[THE EMPIRE OF GERMANY.]
CELLE.
The principal baths, which are effica-
cious in diseases of the liver, kidneys, and
in cases of the gout, are the Muhlbiider
and Sprudelbader ; the principal springs
are the Sprudel and Hygeia. The princi-
pal ingredients of all the springs are near-
ly the same, viz., sulphate of soda, car-
bonate of soda, and common salt. The
Sprudel is covered with a colonnade, under
which the patients promenade in bad
weather.
The Hygeia is the other principal
spring ; but the Muhlbrunnen, whose
temperature is only 126 Fahr., is the
one which is principally drunk. The
Xeubi-unnen is also much used. The wa-
ter of the Sprudelbader and Muhlbader is
that used for baths in the two principal es-
tablishments. There are also vapor baths,
mud baths, and gas batlis.
The patient generally drinks the waters
from 5 to 8 A.M., some of them imbibing
as many as ten glasses; and while the wa-
ter is cooling they promenade, enjoying
the music of a band which is stationed in
the vicinity, open-air exercise being one
of the principal cures of the place, and
a most essential portion of the regimen
laid down by the physicians. The season
is at its height from the 1st of July to
the loth of August. Visitors partak-
ing of the waters of the baths are obliged
to follow certain rules in regard to diet,
which are laid down by the faculty of Carls-
bad, the neglect of which would be danger-
ous to the patient. The daily routine here
is the same as at Toplitz. The walks are
shady and delightful, and donkeys for rid-
ing and mounting the heights in plenty.
There is a reading-room and billiard-tables,
but gambling is strictly prohibited. It is
customary, in leaving the town, to give
one or two francs to the girls at the springs
who have waited upon you.
The tariffs may be seen at the hotels.
A few miles from Carlsbad, situated
in a highly picturesque valley, is the
bathing establishment Giesshubl-Puckstein,
source of the Giesshubler, the waters of
which are forwarded in more than 2,500,000
bottles to all parts of the world. The Giess-
hubler forms, on account of its agreeable
taste, an exquisite beverage at any time,
and is acknowledged and recommended by
the medical faculty as the purest acidulous
spring water. It is extremely efficacious
640
in cases of indigestion, of catarrh in the
stomach or bronchial tubes, liver com-
plaint, gout, chronic rheumatism, gravel,
hypochondria, and hysteria, and well suit-
ed, by its delicate action on the system, to
children, or to women in a weak state of
health. Its efficiency is recognized by the
Carlsbad phj'sicians, who nearly always
prescribe them before or after the Carlsbad
cure. The waters are taken either pure or
with goat's or ass's milk. An establish-
ment for those desiring benefit by these
waters was opened in the year 1844, where
lodgings may be obtained, either by single
persons or for entire families.
The Giesshiibler preserves its qualities
for many years after bottling if kept in
a cool place. The sole importers for the
United States are Scherer & Co., Park
Place, New York ; for England, 2C7 Ox-
ford Street, London.
Any details desired given by the pro.
prietor, Heinrich Mattoni, Carlsbad.
Visitors are taxed for the cure six flor-
ins, and for the band two florins.
The theatre commences its performance
at six, and is usually over by nine o'clock.
There is a reading-room, well supplied
with foreign journals, situated in the New
Kurhuus, as well as a very good restaurant,
much frequented. Another excellent res-
taurant is that of the Stadtpark; they are
both under the same management.
There are numerous cafes and gardens
situated in the handsome valley of the
Tepel, such as the Cafe Salon, Sans Souci,
Sch&nbrunn, etc.
An excursion a little farther, which will
well repay the walk or ride, is to the Pan-
orama to the north of Carlsbad; also to
the Kimiff Otto's Ilohe, from whence there
is an extensive and beautiful view.
Carlsbad to Paris. Time, 37 h. 40 m. ;
fare, 62 gl. 75 kr. (2 gl. = SI).
Carlsbad to Vienna. Time, 14 h. 28 m. ;
fare, 26 gl. 69 kr. = $13.35.
ROUTE No. 168.
Hanover to Hamburg, via Celle, Uelzen,
and Luneburg. Time, 5 h. 30 m. ; fare,
first class, 17 m. 50 pf. ; second class, 13 m.
10 pf.
Celle (Hotel, Adler) is a beautiful town,
noted for its inhabitants speaking the Ian-
LCNEBURG.
[THE EMPIRE OF GERMANY.]
KlSSINGEH.
puage in its greatest purity. The Ilandels-
is highly spoken of, as is its prin-
cipal, Dr. Fiedler. The town contains
li;,:;i>0 inhabitants. The old Schloss has
lately been restored, and contains an in-
teresting chapel. The Pfarrkirche, an
old parish church, contains the tomb of
the house of Brunswick-Luneburg.
In the French Garden there is a monu-
ment to Queen Caroline of Denmark, sis-
ter to George III. of England.
Uelzen, described in Route No. 150.
Luneburg, an interesting old town of
14,000 inhabitants. Principal hotel, Wel-
lenkamp. It is situated on the River II-
men'iu, which is navigable to this point.
It was formerly the capital of the duchy,
and retains its primitive appearance.
The Rathhuuf. situated on the market-
place, is rich in painted glass, frescoes, and
embroidery. Notice the new Council
Chamber, and its curious paintings. There
are numerous relics also shown to the vis-
itor ; the Biirgereid crystal - box, upon
which the burghers of Luneburg placed
their thumbs when the}- took an oath, Her-
mann Billing's drinking-horn in carved
ivory, etc.
The Johmne-'kirche is of the 14th cen-
tury. It has double aisles, a carved altar-
piece, also the pillar on which Luna stood,
hence the name of Lunaburg.
There are some extensive salt-tcorks in
the vicinity. There is a branch line to
Biichen and Lubeck. The line from Ber-
lin also crosses the track.
A short distance beyond Luneburg are
situated some of the remains of the former
town of Bardou-ieck ; previous to the exist-
ence of Hamburg it was the most impor-
tant town in Northern Germany. It was
destroyed by Henry the Lion in 11S9, and
only a portion of its cathedral remains.
J/nrburg is an industrious town contain-
ing 16,500 inhabitants. Hotel, Konig von
Schiceden.
A new line, recently opened, crosses the
north arm of the Elbe, and the traveler ar-
rives at the new station in Hamburg. For
description, see Route No. 147.
ROUTE No. 169.
Frankfort to Berlin (or Carlsbad), via
Witrzburg (the Baths of Kissingen), Bam-
bery, Xeuenmttrkt, Hof, and Leipzig.
Time to Berlin, 17 h. 13 m. ; fare, first
class, 46 marks ; second class, 32 marks 5
g. This is the most direct route to Carls-
bad. At Hof one changes cars for Eger,
thence to Carlsbad.
The direct line to Berlin is via Bebra or
Nordhausen, the latter only 11 hours; see
Frankfort, p. 627.
For Aschaffenburg and Witrzburg, see
Route No. 174.
In one hour from Wurzburg the Schioe in-
furt station is reached, where travelers
change cars for the Baths of Kissingen,
which are reached by a branch line in one
hour ; fare from Schweinfurt, 2 marks.
Schweinfurt (Hotel, Rabi-) contains
10,400 inhabitants. The old Rathhaus,
constructed in 1570, is of a most singular
architecture. Its fortifications are due to
Gustavus Adolphus of Sweden, also its
Gymnasium, which still exists. The man-
ufacture of paper is extensively carried on
here, and there are numerous sugar re-
fineries.
[Kisringen is situated in the Franco-
nian Saale, at the bottom of a valley.
Population, 3300. Principal hotels : San-
ner and Kaiserhof, both first class. This
was formerly a poor, miserable village,
but since the discovery of its celebrated
mineral waters it has rapidly increased
in importance, and during the season its
visitors often number 10.000. Half a
million bottles of its waters are annu-
ally exported. There are three differ-
ent springs : the Rakoczy, which is the
kind exported, and is used for drinking ;
the Pandnr, for bathing, excellent in cases
of gout and chronic diseases ; and the
Maxbrunnen, which is similar to Seltzer
water, and is usually prescribed for chil-
dren.
The principal rendezvous of the visitors
is to the Kurgarten, a large space in front
of the Kurhaus, and the Arcades, where
the Conversation-Room* are situated. The
garden is ornamented with two marble
groups, one a statue of Maximilian II. of
Bavaria ; the other of Hygeia, with sym-
bolical figures of the different sources.
Life here is rather monotonous when
compared with Baden-Baden and other
German watering - places. A theatre is
open during the season. The morning*,
641
HAMBURG.
[THE EMPIRE OF GERMANY.]
HOF JUNCTION.
from 6 to 8, are devoted to drinking the
Rakoczy, and promenading, while the
band performs up to 1 o'clock, at which
time all Kissingen dines, the fashionable
and invalid world retiring from sight.
After dinner, coft'ee and more promenad-
ing, supper, and to bed. A large quan-
tity of salt is obtained from the saline
springs a short distance up the valley.
The walks and drives in the vicinity are
very delightful.
Visitors have the usa of the journals
gratis in the Kurhaus. Hailman's Read-
ing-room in the Kurgarten, 1 fl. 24 kr. per
week. If one remains eight days for the
cure, he pays a tax of five florins ; if chef
defamille, the other members of the fam-
ily pay one and a half florins.
The excursions in the vicinity of Kis-
singen are numerous. Half an hour to
the ruins of Botenlaube, to Allenberg, Staf-
feltsberg, and the Grottos Witchel.
The buildings for the saline evapora-
tions are about half an hour north of
Kissingen. There is here also a bathing-
house at the Soolsprudd, an artesian well
over three hundred feet deep.
Twenty minutes farther, at the village
of Hausen, there is another artesian well
called the Schonbomsbrunnen, over half a
mile deep !
At Bock'et, one hour farther, situated on
the Saale, an iron source has been discov-
ered.
There is a printed tariff for carriages
making the excursions, to which the vis-
itor is referred.]
From Schweinfurt station to Bamberg,
one hour and twenty minutes.
Bamberg is one of the most imposing
cities in Southern Germany. It contains
26,000 inhabitants. Principal hotels are
Deutschfs If (ius, Bamberger ffof, Drei Kro-
nen, and Goldener Adler. It is splendidh-
situated on five hills. A suspension bridge
crosses the east arm of the Regnitz, and
leads from the suburbs to the town. The
Dom, or Cathedral, is the principal build-
ing; it was founded by the Emperor Hen-
ry II. in the early portion of the llth cen-
tury. The principal monument is the
tomb of the royal founder and his empress,
Kunigunde, in the centre of the nave.
Notice on the right of the altar the monu-
ment to Bishop Ebnet, by Vischer of Nu-
remberg. It is of bronze, let into the
642
' wall. The Schloss will repay a visit. It
; was Napoleon's head-quarters in 1806, and
; here he issued his declaration of war against
Prussia, in October of the same year. The
French Field-Marshal Berthier, Prince of
Neufchatel, lost his life here in 1815, by
falling from one of the windows.
The old Rathhaus with its faded frescoes
deserves a visit.
In MaanTnilianplafz is situated an ex-
tensive I'rifsts' Seminary, and in the mar-
ket-place the Jesuit church of St. Mar- '
tin's.
The Lyceum possesses a good library
and valuable MSS.
The Ludwig's Canal, which connects the
Danube with the Main, completed in 1846,
here unites with the Regnitz, and is crossed
by a modern iron and an old stone bridge.
The church of St. Michael contains at
the back of the high-altar a monument to
St. Otho. Near the church stands the
former abbey, founded by Henry II. in
1009. It is now a hospital, on the upper
floor of which is a Picture-Gallery ; admit-
tance, 24 kr.
There is a fine view from the adjoining
terrace.
The studio of C. Schmidt contains some
fine paintings on porcelain.
A short distance from the town, on the
summit of a high hill, may be seen the
ruins of the Castle of A lteburg, the resi-
dence of the famous robber-knight Count
Adelberg. who was betrayed by Bishop
Hatto, of Mayence, into the hands of the
Emperor Lewis ; and it was here that
Otho of Wittelsbach murdered the Em-
peror Philip II. In the dungeon where
| Berengarius died a prisoner you may now
| sit down and drink a glass of first-rate
j beer. The view from the donjon tower is
j very magnificent. There is a chapel fit-
ted up in a portion of the castle.
Passing Lichtcnfels (see Route No. 162),
near which stands the sequestered convent
of li ///z, now the seat of Duke Max of
Bavaria, Neuenmarkt junction is reached,
whence a railway south to B f iyre>ith. One
hour and a half and ffof junction and sta-
tion is reached. This small Bavarian town
was burned in 1823, and contains nothing
of importance. It is, however, a very im-
portant junction as regards the meeting of
different lines of railway ; to the north for
Berlin, Dresden, or Leipzig, and eouthast
N U R f
2 Diinrs Utuu.
'* Jfiinref Staiuiitiid .
5 XchaiKT Snainen .
6 (Gymnasium ,
7 funft urui VewerkschuU .
8 Cetitdldc- Siunlunq t Landauer.
Klastfr)
9 .
10 Wanhiiu.t von Hans Saths
11 Theater.
Oberpostamt .
15 Germ, Jfiaeum .
16 JTZorrnx.
17 SfStbaldu*.
18 StJegutim .
19 Frnuen Kirvke.
Of,l.Ce,st
21
Harper's 1
El RG
ook
FRAN/.KNM. ID.
j I1IF. EMPIRE OK GERMANY.]
NUREMBERG.
to Egcr, Maricnbad, Carlsbad, and Franz-
ensbad.
[From //of to Eg>: Time, 2 h. 5 m.
Nineteen minutes north of E.^er is
Franzensbad. Hotels: British, Gisela,
Holzer, Hiibner, Mttlkr, and Foft. The sit-
uation of the town is charming, it being
surrounded by lovely drives and resorts.
The baths, nine in number besides a gase-
ous spring of carbonic acid and a rich deposit
of ferruginous mud are ferruginous, alka-
line, saline, are remarkable for the quantity
of carbonic acid which they contain, and are
considered excellent in cases of scrofula, dis-
eases of the skin, impoverishment of the
blood (anemia and chlorosis) and its effects,
atony, indigestion, hemorrhoidal affections,
sterility, impotence, neuralgia, hysteria,
hypochondria, disordered menstruation,
chronic catarrh of the mucous membranes,
etc. There are 4000 rooms at the disposal
of guests, a fine kurhaus, splendid orchestra,
theatre ; concerts, reunions, balls, and varied
pastimes. The waters are shipped to all
countries, and all information as to apart-
ment?, etc., furnished, on application by
letter, or visit, to the Biirgermeisleramt
( .Mayor's Office). Franzensbad to Eger
jtinctitm in ten minutes, whence to Carlsbad
'by Route No. 167 in 1 h. 16 in.; and to
Marienbad by Route No. 187 in 37 m.
.'" (Hotel De%T), 21,000 inhabitants.
Kathchln castle was once the seat of the Voigt.
Hence to Leipzig by Route No. 165, and
thence to Berlin by Route No. 160.
ROUTE No. 170.
Frankfort to Prague, via Wiirzburg, Nu-
remberg, and Pilsen. Time, 19 h. 43 m. ;
fare, first class, 58 marks 25 pf. ; second
class, 43 marks 30 pf.
Frankfort to Vienna, via Nuremberg.
Time, 17 h. 53 m. ; fare, first class, 84
marks ; second class, 60 marks 60 pf.
Hanm, described in Route No. 165.
Wiirzlurr/ in Route No. 174.
From Wiirzburg to Fiirth in 2 h. 50 m.
This is a flourishing manufacturing town
of 21,000 inhabitants, and rivals Nurem-
berg in the manufacture of articles known
as Xurcml>erg articles, such as toys, dolls,
lead-pencils, looking-glasses, etc.
Tlu> principal objects of attraction are
the new liathhanf, with its handsome
tower, the church, and the Jewish Syna-
gogue.
Southeast of Furth on a height is situ-
ated the Old Fortress, known by the famous
battle fought there in 1C32 between Gus-
tavus Adolphus and Wallenstein.
Xtti-'.-mberg is beautifully situated on the
River 1'eicnitz, and contains 99,519 inhab-
itants. Hotels: Buy ischer Hof, everything
of the best ; the Strauss, a large, fine, new
house ; Wurtembergtr Hof, a finely situated,
new, first-class house, opposite the station.
Nuremberg was a free city of the empire till
1806, since which time it has belonged to Ba-
varia, and is now the second city, in point of
size and importance, in the kingdom. It
was celebrated during the Middle Ages as
one of the richest cities in Europe, and still
retains considerable of its former prosper-
ity. It is now principally noted for the
manufacture of childrens' toys, which are
exported to all civilized countries ; also for
bronze, tin, and foil used by jewelers ; lead-
pencils are manufactured here at an ex-
tremely low price. The city is surrounded
by ancient walls and turrets. The walls
are encircled by a dry ditch, 100 feet wido
and 50 deep. It is divided into two parts
by the River Pegnitz, which is crossed by
eight bridges. The two parts of the town
are named after the two principal churches :
St. Sebald's side, and St. Lawrence's side.
The churches, monuments, and public and
private edifices of Nuremberg, in spite of
all the changes of centuries, remain almost
unaltered, having escaped unharmed the
sieges, fires, and storms of war, to which
most other cities of Europe have been sub-
jected. The principal houses are mostly
built of stone, in the most substantial man-
ner, with singular gables, which front the
street ; the streets are narrow and tortu-
ous. A few days may be spent here with
interest.
The churches and public buildings of
Nuremberg owe much to eminent painters
and sculptors which she raised, such as Al-
bert Diirer, his master "NVohlgcmuth, and
pupils Kulmbach, Schauflelen. and Alt-
dorfer ; the sculptors Adam Krafft and
Stoss, all known to-day as leading masters
in their respective branches.
The fine Gothic church of St. Larrrence
is the principal one in Nuremberg: it is
dedicated to the gridiron saint of Spain.
It was constructed between the years 1278
and 1477, of a rich brown freestone. Be-
643
NUKEMBEKG.
[THE EMPIRE OF GERMANY.]
NUREMBERG.
tween the two towers is a magnificent port-
al, with numerous sculptures representing
the Last Judgment, with scenes in the lite
and sufferings of the Saviour. The bride's
door, on the northern side, is also very
magnificent. The interior of the church
contains some magnificent carvings, gor-
geous painted glass windows, mostly gifts
to the church from noble families, whose
coats of arms they contain. The principal
object of attraction in the church is the im-
mense stone Sacramenlshduskin, or Sanctu-
ary, which contains the sacramental wa-
fers : it is sixty-five feet high, and of very
exquisite finish, as is also the more modern
Stone pulpit.
Notice the small statue of the Emperor
Adolphus opposite the northern tower.
The Theatre, Museum, and Post-office
are all on the St. Lawrence side of the riv-
er. After crossing the river we arrive at
the Market-place, on the east side of which
stands the Frauenkirche, or Notre Dame.
It is open from 7 to 10 A.M. ; was erected
in the 14th century, and is adorned with
numerous sculptures by Schonhover. The
interior is highly ornamented with monu-
ments, many of them having been removed
from other churches of Nuremberg. No-
tice especially the Pergensdorfer monu-
ment, by Adam Krafft. Notice also the
picture of the High Altar, which is one of
the best in the cit}', painted at so early a
date as the 14th century.
The Public Library is situated in an
ancient convent of the Dominicans. It
comprises 40,000 volumes and 800 MSS.,
with numerous valuable autographs and
astronomical instruments. On the ground
floor there are collections of plaster casts
and sculptures in wood.
In front of Notre Dame stands the
Schonbrunnen, or Beautiful Fountain, the
masterpiece of the Brothers Schonhover.
Behind Notre Dame stands another fount-
ain, called the Gdnsemannchen, or Goose
Fountain, from the name of the market-
place in which it stands.
As we proceed along the Burgstrasse we
arrive on our right at the Hatkhaus, or Ho-
tel de Ville, constructed in 1619. In the
grand saloon, which is in the ancient por-
tion of the building, and dates back to the
year 1340, may be seen a fine picture by
Albert Diirer, representing the triumphal
cortege of the Emperor Maximilian. No-
644
tice especially a fresco by Weyer, repre-
senting an exi-cution by guillotine two and a
ha'f centuries before that instrument is gen-
erally supposed to have been invented ! prov-
ing emphatically that neither Guillotin,
who proposed it to the Constituent Assem-
bly in 1789, nor Dr. Antoine Louis, born
at Metz in 1723, who has the credit of in-
venting it, were its authors, as this fresco
dates from 1521, two hundred years before
either of them were born. There is but
little to be seen in the building at present,
except the decoration of the rooms ; but
could its dungeons or its torture-cham-
bers, with their infernal instruments of tor-
ture, speak, thej' could describe frightful
stories of civilization in the 16th century.
St. Sebald' s Church (shown by the sacris-
tan, fee 12 kr.) is the second finest church
in Nuremberg, and is considered one of the
finest in Germany. It was finished toward
the close of the 14th century, all but the
towers, which were not completed until the
end of the 15th. Here again that celebra-
ted sculptor in wood, Adam Krafft, has im-
mortalized himself in the exterior decora-
tions. Notice especially his Last Judg-
ment on the southern side. The interior
contains numerous gems in carving and
sculpture. The principal object of attrac-
tion is Peter Vischer's Shrine of St. Sebald.
It is said he and sons were employed on
it for the space of thirteen years. Be-
neath the canopy, the relics of the miracle-
working saint repose in an oaken box, in-
cased with silver. There are nearly one
hundred figures in bronze of different sizes,
including the twelve apostles, the fathers
of the Church, and numerous mythological
figures. Under the cofBn are bas-relief
representations of the saint's various mira-
cles, such as burning icicles, turning bread
into stone, etc.
Opposite St. Sebald, on the northern
side, is tli3 Picture-gallery of Nuremberg,
formerly the ancient chapel of St. Maurice.
It contains nearly two hundred pictures of
the Flemish and German school. Open to
the public on Sundays and Wednesdays
from 10 to 12, and at other times for a fee
of 24 kr. for a party.
Near the Fleischerbrucke is an Indus-
trial Museum, Open Mondays, Tuesdays,
and Wednesdays, from 2 to 5, and Sundays
from 10 to 1.30. It contains a collection of
ancient and modern industrial articles.
NUREMBERG.
[THE EMPIRE OF GERMANY.]
KARLSTEIN.
In the Durerplatz is a fine bronze statue '
of the celebrated painter, by Rauch, of J
Berlin : it was erected in 1840. The house ]
where he was born, No. 376 Albert Diirer
Street, still remains; it is occupied by a
society of artists.
The Froscktfutrm, a. few minutes east of
the castle, contains a chamber of torture,
with a collection of interesting and horri-
ble instruments of torture. Ring the bell
at the gate. A fee of twelve kreutzers is
expected.
The Burg, or Castle, is built on a high
rock, and occupies the most conspicuous
position within the town. It is supposed
to have been erected by Conrad III. in
1030, and was for a long time his favorite
residence, as well as of many of his success-
ors ; fee 24 kr. Notice in the chapel the
fine bas-reliefs. A portion of the castle
has been recently fitted up as a royal resi-
dence. Among other paintings here there
is a portrait of Albert Diirer : this is a copy;
the original was stolen by the painter en-
gaged to copy it and sold to the Elector of
Bavaria, and the copy put in its place. In
another portion of the castle there is an
exhibition of the works of native artists.
Notice the lime-tree in the court-yard : it
is said to be over seven hundred years old.
Visit next the Chapel of St. Giles to see
Vandyke's great painting of the Dead
Christ. It is the altar-piece. The Lan-
dauer Kloster contains some 200 pictures ;
the principal is the Banquet given on the
occasion of the Peace of Westphalia, by
Sandrart. There are also several works
by VLschcr and Albert Durer in the col-
lection. Open. Sundays and Wednesdays,
from 2 to 5 P.M.
A visit to the Church-yard of St. John,
outside the walls, should be made. The
monuments and grave-stones are all num-
bered, and many of them are very elegant.
Among the number is that of the good and
gentle Albert Durer, who was brought to
an untimely end by his scolding wife. In
the 15th century a citizen of Nuremberg,
Martin Kctzel, visited Jerusalem for the
purpose of getting the exact distances be-
tiie various stages in going from
Pilate's house to Calvary, that he might
represent the various scenes in the Passion
of the Saviour between his own house,
which is opposite Albert Dilrer's, and the
gate of the church-yard. After his return
he discovered that he had lost the measure-
ment, when he again returned to the Holy
Land, in company with Duke Otho of Ba-
varia, and brought back the proper dis-
tances, and erected seven stone pillars,
each one containing a bas-relief, by Adam,
Krafft, of the different scenes in the Pas-
sion.
Nuremberg has also another cemetery,
that of St. Rock.
The Germanisches Museum : it is placed
in the convent of Chartreux ; it was found-
ed by Baron Aufsess in 1852. It contains
a most interesting collection of historical
relics and national antiquities. In the prin-
cipal hall is Kaulbach's great picture, tha
opening of the grave of Charlemagne by
Otho III.
Some of the large manufactories should
be visited, especially that of Cramer-Klett.
a wagon manufacturer, who employs 3500
men ; the permanent Exposition of the
Society Durer's modern pictures. In ob-
jects of papier-mache, Fleischmann's is the
best ; and Behl for sculptured ivory.
Nuremberg to Paris, via Strasburg or Bin-
gerbriick. Time, 21 h. ; fare, 84 mk. 30 pf.
Nuremberg to Vienna. Time, 12 h. 20
m. ; fare, first class, 50 marks 45 pf.
Nuremberg to Prague. Time, 12 h. 10
m. ; fare, first class, 33 marks 95 pf.
Nuremberg to Munich. Time, 5 hours ;
fare, first class, 18 marks 15 pf.
Nuremberg to Rutiibon. Time, 2 h. 12
m. ; fare, first class, 9 marks 25 pf.
Passing Xchicandorf, the junction of the
line from Ratisbon to Eger, and Pil.<en, de-
scribed in Route No. 187. At Horowitz there
are numerous iron-works, and the castle of
the Elector of Hessen.
Karlstein station, near which is the most
remarkable castle in Bohemia, Schloss Karl-
stein ; it was constructed about the middle
of the 14th century by the Emperor Charles
IV., and decorated with nameless treasures
of art, most of which have been removed.
The small chapel of St. Catharine consisted
of a recess built in the solid wall, which is
twelve feet thick, and is inlaid with pre-
cious stones, and contains portraits of the
emperor and empress kneeling before the
Virgin. The Chapel of the Cross formerly
contained the Bohemian regalia and other
valuables, which were secured by four iron
doors and nineteen locks. The chapel is
also sumptuously decorated, and contains
645
TlIARAND.
[THE EMPIRE OF GERMANY.]
FREIBERG.
portraits of 130 saints, by Theodoric, of
Prague.
Prague. (For description, see Route No.
188 >
ROUTE No. 171.
Dresden to Schwarzenburg, via Freiberg,
Chemnitz, and Zwickau. Time, 5 h. 35 m. ;
fare, first class, 16 marks 30 pf.
The line passes through a picturesque
valley called the Plawnsche Grund, where
in a coal-mine 276 miners lost their lives
by an explosion in 1869.
Tharand, a small watering-place, roman-
tically situated, containing 1750 inhabit-
ants. Hotels, Deiitsches Haus and Bad.
The town is commanded l>y an old castle.
formerly a hunting-seat of the ancestors of
the present kings of Saxony. The sides of
the hill behind the castle are covered with
a dense wood, through which are cut beau-
tiful promenades.
The Forst-Academie is a nursery where
students are instructed in all the details of
planting and cultivating trees, for timber
and for ornament.
At HUbersdorf there is a royal foundry,
646
called Muld'-ntr Hutte. The line crosses
I the river Mulde by a viaduct 74 feet high,
near which are silver -mines producing
about 700,000 marks per annum.
Freiberg, an old imperial city, and for a
long time the residence of the Saxon
princes, contains 20,000 inhabitants. Ho-
tels, De Saxe and Rather Hirsch. The town
was founded immediately after the discov-
ery of its silver-mines in 1171. The prin-
cipal part of the population are occupied in
the mines, which produce yearly nearly
4,000,000 marks. It is calculated that up
to the present time (1876) they have pro-
duced 888,000,000 marks.
The population of Freiberg was at one
time double that of the present. It is hand-
somely situated on the Miinzbach, is the
centre of the Saxon mines, and the seat of
their administration. The miners are en-
rolled in a military corps, the workmen be-
ing privates, and the managers and inspect-
ors officers, and assemble several times a
year for parade, on which occasion thev
wear a uniform with the hinder apron, and
earn' the implement with which they work.
The Cathedral is a Gothic structure,
erected towai-d the close of the loth cen-
tury. It was constructed on the site of
an older church destroyed by fire in 1484,
of which one of the great sights of the pres-
ent church is the Golden Gate, partially
restored and richly ornamented. Behind
the altar is the tomb of Maurice of Sax-
ony ; it is a sarcophagus, richly decorat-
ed, surmounted with his kneeling effigy.
Above the monument, in a niche, is the
armor he wore on the battle-field of Sievers-
hausen. He was shot after gaining the
victory, and the hole in the armor is visi-
ble. Forty-one members of the house of
Saxony are interred here, from Henry the
Pious down.
Notice the two beautiful Gothic pulpits.
Adjoining the cathedral there is a fine
cloister.
The flat/ihaus dates from 1410, and is a
good specimen of the Gothic architecture
of that date.
The School oj Mines, founded in 1765,
possesses a rich collection of specimens of
the mineral productions of Saxony. Stu-
dents repair here from all parts of the world
for instruction in the mining art. Hum-
bold t and Werner were students of this in-
stitution. The tomb of the last mentioned
CHEMNITZ.
[THE EMPIRE OF GERMANY.]
is in the cloister of the cathedral, and a
monument lias been erected to him near
the rustle.
Tin; collection of the machinery used in
mining is most interesting. To visit one of
the mint's permission must be obtained from
the Bergmi'isti'r, when travelers are pro-
vided with a dress at the entrance, some
two miles from the town.
In the market-place a round stone marks
the place where the robber-knight Kunz of
Kaufungen was beheaded. It was he who
stole the two young Saxon princes, Ernest
and Albert, from their father's castle at
Altenlmrg.
In the northwest part of the town is the
ancient castle of Freudeiisfein.
A visit should be made to the Amal-
i/iimir- \\'irk>> at Ifnkbriicke, to witness the
extraction of silver from the ore by means
of quicksilver.
From Freiberg to Chemnitz the small
town otOetl'ran is passed ; then the fine im-
posing castle of AugHstunburg, built in 1572
by the Elector Augustus ; then the borough
of Schellenberg, and in the distance the Erz-
gebirgp.
F/oha, a small town, remarkable as the
birthplace of the great statesman Pufen-
dorf. There is a branch line from here to
.1 unnbcrg in 1 h. 45 m. This is a busy lit-
tle manufacturing town.
From the station Nicder- Weisa there is
a branch line to the two small manufactur-
ing towns of Frankenberg and //ayiric/un.
Chemni/z, the most important manufact-
uring town in Saxony. It is situated at
the base of the Erzgebirge, in a fertile val-
ley, and contains 63,500 inhabitants. Prin-
cipal hotels, Kkiucr Enrjel, Rvmischer Kai-
Sfr, Stadt Got/ia, Stadt Berlin, and I 'ictoria.
Its staple productions are cotton stockings
and other cotton fabrics; the former are
both better and cheaper than those manu-
factured in any other part of the world.
Nearly the entire production is sent to the
I 'niu-d States. The average price is about
3i marks the dozen, or about 7i cents the
p:iir! There is one establishment alone
that has over eighteen hundred spindles.
Spinning machinery is also largely manu-
factured here; also locomotives, one man-
ufactory employing '2501) men.
For works of art there is not much of in-
terest. The Jtatkktius is situated on the
Hauptmarkt, surmounted by a high towei.
ZWICKAU.
The Stadtkirche has a fine carved portal.
There is also nClith Hall and an K.rctutnge.
The ancient fortifications have been con-
verted into agreeable promenades.
Mr. Cropsey, United States consul here,
is exceedingly polite to American travelers.
There is a branch line running north to
Meissen, and one northwest to Leipzig.
Our route continues through a thickly
populated district, the inhabitants of which
are mostly engaged in the stocking trade.
Passing Glauchau, a manufacturing town
situated on the Mulde, with a population of
22,000 (hotel, Deutsches Ilaus), we arrive at
Zicickau (hotels, Post and Deutscher Kai-
ser). This picturesque old town, surround-
ed by a wall, is situated on the Zwickauer
Mn/ile, and contains 26,000 inhabitants.
The M<ti ientircke is a fine Gothic church
dating from the middle of the 15th century.
It is surmounted by a tall tower. The
altar-piece, which is by Wohlgemutk, is very
line ; it represents the Virgin, with nine
female saints, life size. Beneath it there is
another winged altar-piece, richly carved
in wood, by Adam Krafft. The Baptistery
contains a picture by Cranach, "Suffer lit-
tle children to come unto me."
The Catherinenkirche contains an altar-
piece of the " Feet-washing." Thomas
Miinzer, one of the Anabaptist leaders who
was beheaded at Miihlhausen, was at one
time minister here.
There are numerous coal-beds in the vi-
cinity.
Passing the junction of Nieder-Schlema,
from whence there is a branch line to
Schneeb(rg (15 minutes), a small town of
7500 inhabitants, the principal church of
which has a picture of the Virgin, the
masterpiece of Cranach, we arrive at
Schwarzenberg, the terminus of the line.
a small town of 3700 inhabitants, surround-
ed by mountains, and commanded by an
ancient castle. There are important iron-
works in the vicinity.
647
G6RLIT?:.
[THE EMPIRE OF GERMANY.]
BAVARIA,
ROUTE No. 172.
Berlin to Gorlitz, via Cottbus. (Excursion
to the Riesengebirge.) Time, 4 h. 50 ra. ;
fare, first class, 16 marks 70 pf. ; second
class, 12 marks 50 pf.
To Vienna, via Gorlitz. Time, 18 h. 34
m. ; fare, 65 marks 40 pf.
Lubben, situated on the Spree, contains
6000 inhabitants.
Cottbus junction, a busy manufacturing
town of 18,200 inhabitants, finely situated
on the Spree, with branch railways to Gu-
ben and Frankfort, also to Forst. The in-
habitants are principally occupied in the
manufacture of cloth. There is a collection
of Wend antiquities.
Gorlitz (hotel, Krone), formerly belonging
to Saxony, now the capital of the Prussian
province of Upper Lusatia, is situated on
the River Xeisse. Population, 43,000. It
retains many marks of antiquity. Cloth
and linen are its principal productions.
The church of St. Paul and St. Peter,
one of the largest in Saxony, deserves a
visit.
The Kreuzlcirche contains a representa-
tion of the Saviour's Passion. In the upper
story is a representation of the Last Sup-
per, behind which is a miniature copy of
the Holy Sepulchre.
About four miles distant is the prominent
hill of Landskrone, from whence there is a
beautiful view.
Notice the splendid viaduct, 1500 feet
long, which carries the Breslau Railway
across the Neisse.
648
About three hours from Gorlitz are situ-
ated the baths of Liebemrerda. situated in a
beautiful country, near which is the cele-
brated castle of Friedland, from which Wal-
lenstein received his title of Duke ; it was
presented to him by the Emperor Ferdinand,
and is now the property of the Count Clam
Gallas, and contains numerous interest-
ing relics of Wallenstein. An excursion
through the Riesfnyebirge (or Giant Mount-
ains) may be made from this point.
BAVARIA.
Bavaria consists of two distinct divisions
of territory, which cover an area of 29,628
square miles, and contains a population of
5,284,778, three and a half millions of whom
are Catholics, and five thousand Jews. The
larger division is bounded on the south and
east by the German provinces of Austria ;
on the west by the kingdom of Wurtemberg.
and the duchy of Baden ; and on the north
by the smaller German states. The smaller
portion is to the westward of the Rhine,
and bordering on the French frontier. It
has a mean elevation of sixteen hundred
feet above the level of the sea, is two hun-
dred miles long, and one hundred and fifty
wide. The greater portion of Bavaria is
within the basin of the Danube, which
crosses the country from west to east, and
is watered by that river and its numerous
affluents. The climate is in general tem-
perate and salubrious.
Bavaria is particularly noted for the
good quality of its beer, which is far supe-
rior to that of any other country ; in fact,
M U
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9 KasUica
10 KarUfjl. fuvi fieri x
11 /Jaxur-
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29 Academic
30 FeldJusrrriJuiMr
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book
MUNICH.
[THE EMPIRE OF GERMANY.]
Mcxicu,
its flavor is entirely different ; but you must
drink it in Munich. The quantity drunk
and brewed is incredible. Allowing twen-
ty-live million gallons to be exported every
year, the quantity brewed would leave sev-
enteen gallons per annum to every man,
woman, and child in the kingdom.
The population of Bavaria does not in-
crease so rapidly as in other German prov-
inces, principally owing to the law regulat-
ing marriages, which says that " no mar-
riage between persons without capital shall
be allowed without the permission of the
poor institutions." If any of the superin-
tendents of the poor, -whose duty it is to
keep a careful watch on persons wishing
to evade this law, should be derelict in their
duty, they are answerable for the mainte-
nance of the families arising from the union,
should they not be able to maintain them-
selves. The law is unquestionably a good
one to prevent improvident unions, but on
tlie score of morality it is questionable, as
in Munich half the births are illegitimate.
The government of Bavaria is constitu-
tional and hereditary, and by treaty with
the Confederation of Northern Germany in
1*7(1 the right of surveillance over persons
settling in Bavaria is not permitted to the
finpire.
Tin- kingdom of Bavaria reserves to it-
exclusive administration of the post
and telegraph, and the army of Bavaria
forms a separate and distinct part of the
German arm}-, having an independent ad-
ministration, and is placed under the mili-
tary sovereignty of the King of Bavaria,
but in times of war under the emperor, as
commander-in-chief of the imperial army.
Its army comprises two army corps,! and
2, divided each in two divisions.
The public debt of Bavaria amounts
to 793,000,000 marks. Its receipts and
expenses annually amount to 212,000,000
marks.
The reigning sovereign of Bavaria is a
member of the house of Wittelsbach, which
is Catholic. Louis II.,Otho Frederick Will-
iam. King of Bavaria, Count Palatine of
the Rhine, Duke of Bavaria, uf l-'ranconia,
and of Suabia. He was born at Nymphen-
burg. August -2.~)th, IX l,"j. Hi- succeeded his
father. Maximilian II., March 10th, 1864.
He has only one brother, Prince Otho, born
April 27th, 1848.
Munich, the capital of Bavaria, is situ-
ated on the left bank of the River Isar,
and contains 230,023 inhabitants. Its
principal hotels are: Bayerischer //^(Ba-
varian Hotel), Zu den I'ier Juhrtsztiten
(The Four Seasons Hotel), and the H6td
<T Angkterre (Engliscker Hof). The Bava-
rian is an immense establishment, situ-
ated on Promenadenplatz, one of the finest
positions in the city. The rooms are all
large, spacious, and cheap. American and
English papers are kept in the reading-
room ; hot and cold baths in the house : a
fine elevator, etc. ; servants speak all lan-
guages. The Four Seasons is very finely
situated in the Neu Maximilian Street,
near the Place Max Joseph and the Theatre.
This street is the fashionable promenade,
and contains the finest houses in Munich,
and perhaps in Germany. This spacious
hotel is furnished in the best manner pos-
sible, and is noted for its cuisine, wines, and
attendance. It has a hydraulic elevator,
and is much patronized by American and
English travelers. It contains numerous
private saloons, dining - saloons, coffee,
billiard, and smoking rooms ; hot and cold
baths. The terms are very moderate.
Hotel d'Angleterre, a reasonable first-class
house near the theatres. Koyal Palace, etc.,
well conducted by Mr. Straub. Avoid all
other hotels near the station, management
and patronage being of a lower order.
Munich is considered, in proportion to its
size, one of the finest cities of Europe ; and
perhaps, with the exception of Florence and
Madrid, shines conspicuously above all the
others in regard to its extensive collections
of works of art, principally brought togeth-
er under the care of Ludwig I., king of
Bavaria, who, to the Dtisseldorf Gallery,
removed here by Max Joseph, and the Man-
heim collection, transferred to Munich by
the Elector Palatine, added the galleries of
Nuremberg, Bambcrg, Augsburg. Wallen-
stein, and Boisseree. It is also rich in pub-
lic buildings of various kinds, and has nu-
merous gardens, squares, and monuments.
In this last it shines most conspicuous : the
genius of Schwantkaler, Stiglmayer, and
HI
MUNICH.
[THE EMPIRE OF GERMANY.]
MUNICH.
Miller, as well as the great facilities for cast-
ing monuments in bronze, has been appre-
ciated in many of the cities of Europe as well
as America. In literature it also stands
prominent, and its public library is, next
to that of Paris, the largest in the world.
To see Munich thoroughly, and to save
time, one should employ a valet de place.
In fact, without one it is impossible to see
the royal palace at least the whole of it.
Carriage-hire in Munich is very reason-
able. There are two kinds of conveyances,
the fiacre and droschke. The fiacres are
carriages with two horses, and have seats
for four persons. This class of carriage
charges for one or two persons to and from
the railway d6pot, 45 pf. ; for three or four
persons, 70 pf. A droschke, for one or two
persons, to or from the depot, 40 pf. In the
city or the suburbs, by the hour, the follow-
ing is the tariff: for fiacres. J hour, one or two
persons, 40 pf. ; three or four persons, 70 pf.
^ hour, one or two persons, 1 mark ; three
or four persons, 1 mark : hour, one or two
persons, 1 mark ; three or four persons, 1 m.
75 pf. : 1 hour, one or two persons, 1 m. 30
pf. ; three or four persons, 2 marks. For
every quarter of an hour 35 pf. additional.
The droschke charges, by the hour, or
parts of hours, the following: -J hour, for
one or two persons, 45 pf. : ^ hour, for one
or two persons, 70 pf. : 1 hour, for one or
two persons, 1 m. 20 pf. : 1J hour, 2 marks :
2 hours, 3 marks.
During the night there is an extra
charge of 10 pf. for every quarter of an hour
for the lanterns. After 10 o'clock the fare
is double. It is not customary, nor is it
expected in Munich, to give pourboire to
the driver.
It is impossible to give the time at which
the different sights of Munich may be vis-
ited, as it is continually being changed,
but it is published in a daily paper, the
Tagesanz iyer, to which we refer travelers.
The most important places, however, can
be given ; viz. : Die ResHenz, or Royal Pal-
ace, every day, at 11 A.M., except Sunday.
The Pinacothek, or Picture-gallery, every
day but Saturday, from 9 to 2, with Cab-
inetof Drawings and Engravings. The New
Pinacothek is c'osed Mondays. Wednesdays,
and Fridays, being open the other four days
from 8 to 12, and from 2 to 4. The
Glyptothek, or Sculpture-gallery, open ev-
ery Monday and Friday, from 8 to 12.
650
and from 2 to 4, and Wednesday from 8
to 12. The Library, from 10 to 12, except
Sunday ; fee, 70 pf. Statue of Bavaria, ev-
ery day; fee, 35 pf. National Museum,
daily, except Monday, from 10 to 2; Sun-
day and Thursday gratis ; other days, 90 pf.
Anatomical Museum, daily, from 9 to 12,
and from 2 to 4. Art Exhibition, opposite
the Glyptothek, daily, in summer from 9 to
5 ; fee, 35 pf. Royal A cademy of Science,
from 10 to 12; fossils, Saturday, from 10
to 1.
Erzgiesserei, or Royal Foundry, daily, from
1 to 6 ; Sunday, from 12 to 2 ; fee, 35 pf.
Kunstverein, or Art Union, from 9 to C.
Strangers must be introduced by mcmlwr?.
Month!}- tickets, 1 florin each.
Schioanthaler Museum, Monday, Wednes-
day, and Friday, gratis; other days, fee,
35 pf.
Schack's Picture- Gallery, from 2 to 5;
fee, 70 pf.
Wimmer Collection, daily, gratis.
The Resident, or Royal Palace of Munich,
is divided into three parts the Alte Jtrsi-
df-nz, or Old Residence, the Konigsbau, or
New Residence, and the Fcstsaalbau, or
Salle des Fetes. The Rich Chapel and
Treasury can only be visited by special
permission of the Hof-Marschallamt, office
of the Court Chamberlain. The Old Pal-
ace was finished in 1616 by Maximilian I. ;
and when the conqueror Gustavus Adol-
phus entered Munich, he above all ad-
mired this palace, and wished that he
could remove it to Stockholm on wheels!
The front of the palace lias two handsome
entrances, decorated with statues of Wis-
dom, Bravery, Justice, and Temperance,
with four bronze lions bearing shields
with the arms of Bavaria and Lorraine.
In the centre niche stands the Virgin Mary,
the patron saint of Bavaria. The ( )ld
Palace incloses four courts, viz.', the Kai-
serhof, Kiichenhof, Capellenhof, and Brun-
nenhof. This last takes its name from a
handsome bronze fountain, which is orna-
mented with mythological divinities Vul-
can. Neptune, Juno, and Ceres which
represent the four elements, with groups
of Tritons and aquatic animals. A bronze
statue of Otho de Wittelsbach, the founder
of the present house of Bavaria, armed
cap-a-pie, stands on a marble pedestal on
MUNICH.
[THE EMPIRE OF GERMANY.]
MUNICH
the heads of rams. Under the arch through
which you pass in going from the Brun-
nenhof to the Capellenhof, notice a large
black stone fastened by a chain, and three
large spikes driven into the wall at differ-
ent heights. This stone and these nails
are monuments of the strength and agility
of the Duke Christopher, son of Albert
III., and other Bavarian princes, as the
description in verse on the wall testifies.
Thi* immense stone, weighing 364 pounds,
the duke took up and hurled to a great
distance. The upper nail marks the spot
where his heel struck in leaping from the
ground (12 feet) ; the second nail, 9| feet,
marks the spot touched by Prince Conrad ;
and the third by Prince Philippe. This
occurred in the year 1490. What degen-
erate jumpers we are nowadays ! We now
arrive at Grottenhof, or Grotto Court,
which was formerly used as a summer
garden, and was ornamented with tropical
plants and water-works. Notice in the
centre of the garden a bronze statue of
iVrsrus, with the head of Medusa.
We pass into the Schatzkammer, or Treas-
ury. Notice the genealogical tree, and the
portraits of the princes and princesses of the
house of Wittelsbach. This collection of
royal jewels was commenced by the Duke
Albert V., and enriched by his successors.
It is, by the laws of the state, unalienable.
It embraces an incredible amount of valu-
ables and precious stones. Among the
diamonds is the great blue brilliant in the
ornament of the order of the golden fleece ;
the Palatine pearl, half white and half
black; the crowns of the Emperor Henry
the Saint and his Empress Kuniu'unda;
that of the Elector Frederick V., king of
Bohemia, captured at the battle of Prague
in HV20; that of Maximilian Joseph, and
of his queen Caroline ; complete toilet sets
of the Empress Amelie in enamel, and of
the Empress Josephine in lapis-lazuli.
Notice the equestrian statue of St. George
and the Dragon ; also, on the table in the
ivntn; of the saloon, a copy of the Emperor
Trajan's monument at Home. It was or-
dered by the Elector Charles Theodore,
and took twenty years of Valadier's life to
linish it.
The Rich Chapel (Reichc Capelle) was
dedicated to the Virgin in 1607, l.y Maxi-
milian I., and is most rich in ornaments,
relics, treasures, and precious stones. The
Annunciation, placed above the entrance,
is by Peter Candid. The roof is gold and
blue ; the walls of Florentine mosaic ; the
floor of amethyst, jasper, and marble. The
high-altar is of solid silver, also the side
j altars. In ebony caskets are contained
any quantity of saintly relics, such as
heads, hands, and toes. A Descent from
the Cross, in bas-relief, by Michael Ange-
lo ; a small portable altar, highly enam-
eled, formerly in possession of Mary Queen
of Scots, which she used during her cap-
tivity, and which she carried to the scaf-
fold. One of her attendants brought it to
Pope Leon XI., who presented it to Maxi-
milian I., elector of Bavaria.
The Kaiserzimmer, or the apartments of
: Charles VII., are well worth a visit, to
show in what luxury the ancient rulers of
Bavaria lived. These rooms consist of a
reception-saloon, dining-saloon, throne-
room, bedroom, cabinet of mirrors, and
cabinet of miniatures. They also contain
some very fine pictures, and were selected
by Napoleon for his private use when here.
In the ckambre a. couchcr examine with care
the curtains and coverings of the bed,
worked with gold ; they cost 800,000 flor-
ins, and forty persons were steadily em-
ployed fifteen years in embroidering them !
The bed stands inside a small inclosure.
Bonaparte, while here, did not sleep on the
bed, but used his camp-bed, which was set
up for him alongside the royal couch, and
inside the inclosure. There are several
other chambers connected with this suite
which are not shown. The throne-room
is now used by the young princes for a
billiard-saloon, and the room adjoining (not
shown) for a bowling-saloon. This suite
of rooms is entirely ignored by all the Eu-
ropean guide-books, for what reason we
can not understand. We think them the
most interesting rooms in the palace.
The Festsaalbuu, or Salle des Fetes,
fronts on the Hofgarten, and is that part
of the palace used for the state apartments
and for all court festivities. Its front is
800 feet long, was erected between th
years lx:V_> and lx-J'2. in the Palladian style,
after the designs of L. von Klenze, and is
one of the most magnificent works of the
present day. It is to be seen between the
hours of 3 and 4 P.M. Visitors generally
! assemble for this purpose over the state
! apothecary's apartments, and are all taken
651
MUNICH.
[THE EMPIRE OF GERMANY.]
' MUNICH.
through the different rooms by the custo-
dian at the same time. The fee is 70 pf.
each party.
At the left of the vestibule, as you enter,
are the Odysseus-Sale, six rooms devoted to
representations and scenes from the Odys-
sey of Homer. They were painted by Hil-
tensberger in encaustic, after designs by
Schwanthaler. Each of the six rooms con-
tains four poems, in eight pictures. One
of the best is in the first room, where the
assemblage of the gods decide that Ulysses
must leave the island of Calypso and re-
turn to his native land.
The magnificent double marble stair-
way, which is reserved for fetes and court
solemnities, conducts you to the state apart-
ments on the first floor (second story).
Travelers, however, are conducted through
an antechamber into the Sail-room, -which
is 130 feet long by 40 wide. The walls are
decorated by figures of dancers in relief, by
Schwanthaler. We now pass into two
saloons which are called Saloons of Beauty.
They are adorned -with 37 portraits of the
handsomest females who have lived, or still
live in Munich. They were taken by Jos.
Stieler, court painter, by order of the king.
The different personages have occupied
different social positions, from the queen
on the throne to the daughter of a bour-
geoise of Munich. This collection is unique
of its kind, as thirty-six such beautiful
women were never before seen at one time,
and they are all likenesses. Loia Montez
was one of the thirty -six ; but her like-
ness has been remored to the new Pinaco- '
thek, where, for an extra fee, it may be j
seen. The royal family were compelled
to remove it on account of frequent scur-
rilous verses written by Bavarian students
on the subject. The two gems of the
collection, in our opinion, are No. 10, the
Countess Irene, of Arco - Stepperg, born
Marquise of Pallavicini, and No. 32, Guil-
lemetti Sulzer, actress of the court thea-
tre. These beautiful portraits have been
photographed, and arc bound in book form,
under the title of "Collection of Beau-
ties" "Galerie de Trente-six Portraits!
ile Femme," created by the order of his
Majesty, Louis I., of Bavaria. They may
be purchased at the li Wimmer Collec-
tion."
The If all of Banquets, or of Battles, com-
052
prise fourteen splendid battle-scenes, paint-
ed by different leading artists, represent-
ing the principal valiant deeds of the Ba-
varian army between the years 1805 and
1815. After repassing the Salles des
Beautes and de Bal, we enter into three
saloons dedicated to the three great epochs
in the history of Germany during the Mid-
dle Ages. These rooms separate the Salle
de Bal from the Salle du Trone. The
paintings are from designs of J. de Schnorr.
The first is the Saloon of Charlemagne, com-
prising six large and twelve small pictures,
illustrating scenes in his life. The six
principal are, 1. Charlemagne as a boy,
anointed king of the Franks, in 754, by
Pope Stephen II., in presence of his father
Pepin ; 2. His victory over Desiderius at
Pavia; 3. His victory over the Saxons; 4.
Propagating Christianity among the van-
quished ; 5. The Council of Frankfort-on-
Main ; 6. He is crowned emperor at Rome
by Pope Leo III. The twelve smaller pic-
tures represent the events that would nat-
urally take place between the incidents
detailed in the large pictures.
Saloon of Frederick Barbarossa. There
are six large pictures and several small
frescoes. The larger are generally by J.
de Schnorr. 1. Frederick Hohenstaufen
(Barbarossa) elected Emperor of Germany ;
2. His entrance into Milan as conqueror;
3. He concludes a treaty of peace at Venice
with Pope Alexander III. ; 4. He gives a
grand public festival at Mayence in 1185 ;
5. The battle of Inconium; G. His death iu
the river near Seleucia.
Saloon of Rudolph if Hapsburg, founder
of the present house of Austria. The four
principal pictures represent, 1. Rudolph
gives his horse to a priest for the purpose
of carrying some water to administer the
Holy S*acrament to a dying person; 2. He
learns that he is elected Emperor of Ger-
many ; 3. He defeats Ottocar, king of Bo-
hemia, who refused to recognize his elec-
tion ; 4. He destroys the castles of the rob-
ber-knights and establishes public peace.
Notice the frieze in this saloon: it was
executed by Scbnorr. This suite of rooms
has a suitable termination in the Salle du
Tr'm'\ or throne-room, which is considered
the very perfection of architectural beau-
ty, and richness and delicacy of ornament.
The decorations are gold on a white ground.
The gallery is supported by twenty Co-
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rinthian marble columns, between which
st.niil twelve colossal bronze statues, rich-
ly gilded. They were modeled by Schwan-
thaler, c.ist li\- Stiglmayer, and represent
different princes of the house of Bavaria,
commencing with Otho the Illustrious,
count palatine of the Rhine in 1253, and
ending with Charles XII., king of Sweden.
The Ki"wr.ib-iii, or New 1'alace, fronting
on Max Joseph's Square, was completed in
18:55 by King Louis, from designs by
Klen/.e : was built in imitation of the Pitti
PalacQ at Florence. Its interior is most
magnificently linished. Only the ground
floor is at present shown to strangers, the
royal family occupying the other floors.
The apartments of the king are ornament-
ed with representations of paintings in en-
caustic, the subjects taken from the Greek
poets, and those of the queen from scenes
of the German poets. The suite of rooms
which are shown illustrate the Niebelun-
genlied, one of the great poems of Ger-
many : the frescoes, which are of great ce-
lebrity, are by Sehnorr. The first, or ante-
room, gives a view of all the characters
represented in the tragedy. Over the door,
the supposed author of the poem, between
Narrative and Tradition, the two sources
of his poetry. At. the right we see Sieg-
fried and Chriemhild : farther to the right,
Hagen, Volker. To the left King Gunther
an 1 Brunhilde. At the same side, but
higher up, Abarich, guardian of the treas-
ure of the Niebi'lung, and Kekwardr, mes-
senger of Chriemhild. On the third wall ;
King Etzel and his faithful Rudigcr, Die- j
trich of Berne, and the. a_red Master Ililde- |
brande. The arcli over the window con-
tains the mermaids who predict to Hagen,
the murderer of Siegfried, his defeat at
Vienna. Farther on, to the right of Etzel,
are the parents of Siegfried, King Sieg-
mund and Sieglinde. Then the Queen
Ute, mother of Gunther, with her two
younger sons, Gernot and Gieselher. The
; is the Bridal Chamber, containing
the principal episodes in the life of Sieg-
fried. ( )n the wall facing the window, his
return to the castle of King Gunther at
Worms. The larjxe frescoes arc, his re-
turn from the Saxon war: the arrival of
Brunhilde at Worms ; the marriage of
Chri -tnhild and Siegfried, by which the
mysteries of the poem are unraveled.
The Chamber of Z'reac^r?/. On the ceil-
VOL. II. F
ing Chriemhild's Dream : her falcon de-
voured by two eagles, and the Niebelungs'
treasure guarded by gnomes. Above the
doors 1. Chriemhild points out to Hagen
the spot where Siegfried is vulnerable, for
the purpose of better protecting him ; 2.
The departure of Siegfried for the chase ;
;i. Sigisrnunde apprised of the death of his
son, Siegfried ; 4. Hagen throws into the
Rhine the treasure of the Niebelnngs. The
four large pictures represent 1. The quar-
rel of the two queens, Chriemhild and Brun-
hilde, at the door of the Munster ; 2. The
murder of Siegfried by Hagen at the brook ;
3. Chriemhild, in going to the church, dis-
covers the dead body of Siegfried before
the door; 4. She recognizes that Hagen is
the murderer of her husband, because at
his entrance the wounds bleed afresh.
Th". Chamber of Rtvenye represents the
extermination of this heroic race, in conse-
quence of the bloody revenge of Chriem-
hild. The mermaids are again represent-
ed on the ceiling, which contains a fulfill-
ment of their prophecy. The principal
pictures are, Chriemhild reproaches lla-
gen with his treason ; combat on the lad-
der during the burning of the palace ; Die-
trich overcomes Hagen ; Chriemhild kills
Hagen, and is at lust slain by Hildebraixle.
The fifth and last chamber is that of
Lamentations, which represents the suryjv-
ing actors in the drama mourning over the
events, and relating them to the Bishop of
Passau. This closes our description of one
of the most interesting palaces in Europe.
The Arcades of the Jlofgarten, or garden
of the Court, which are situated on the
north side of the Resident, arc considered
one of the sights of Munich. The park or
garden was laid out by Maximilian I. in
1614, but is much changed since that time ;
whereas in former times it. contained 128
fountains, it now contains but four. In
the centre of the park is a building called
the Temple of the Fountain, surmounted
with a statue of Bavaria in bronze. The
principal ornaments of the garden, how-
ever, are the frescoes of the arcades, and
the bazars, collections of works of art, cafes,
shops, dining and supper rooms, which bor-
der its margin. During the summer months
the military band plays certain days in the
week, when, if the day be lovely, all the
world turns out. The historical frescoes
are twelve in number, and represent tha
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most important events in the history of the
reign of the house of Wittelsbach. There
are also twenty-eight landscape frescoes,
painted by Rottman, which represent scenes
in Italy and the island of Sicily, with po-
etical inscriptions explanatory of the sub-
jects, written by his majesty King Louis.
Notice here the united collection on the
north side of the garden : it consists of
Chinese, Egyptian, Roman, and Indian an-
tiquities, which well deserve a visit.
The Pinncothek, or Picture-gallery (open
even' day in the week except Saturday from
9 to 2), was erected between the years 1826
and 1836, by L. de Klenze. It is an immense
building, 520 feet long and 92 wide, in the
style of a Roman palace, and from every point
of view has a truly appropriate and magnifi-
cent appearance. The principal fa9ade is
ornamented with 24 statues of the most cele-
brated painters, modeled by Schwanthaler.
The gallery of paintings occupies thefirst
floor after ascending from the vestibule,
which is supported by four Ionic columns.
The gallery founded by Maximilian I.,
augmented by King Maximilian Joseph,
and enriched with important acquisitions
by King Louis (1827), is actually one of
the finest galleries of Europe. In nine
halls and twenty-three cabinets are found
nearly fourteen hundred paintings.
Hall of the Founders. The walls are
hung with the portraits of the sovereigns
who have contributed most largely to the
formation of the gallery, viz., the elect-
ors Maximilian I., Max. Emanuel, Johann
Wilhelm, founder of the Dusseldorf Gal-
lery : Karl Theodore, of the Palatinate ;
and the kings Maximilian, Joseph I., and
Ludwig I.
First Hall. This contains the paintings
of the ancient upper German school, from
the time of its foundation to the middle of
the 16th century. The most important
are the following : Albert Di'irer The like-
ness of an armed Cavalier (1), the Nativity
of Christ (73), Burial of Christ (66) ; De-
scent from the Cross (34), by Michael
Wohlgemuth ; the Adulteress before Christ
(56), portrait of the Count Fugger (62), St.
Peter and St. John (71), St. Paul and St.
Mark (76). Jesus on the Mount of Olives
(5), by John Holbein the elder.
Second Hall. The paintings contained
in this apartment are mostly from the old,
the rest from the later German school. A
654
portrait of Man (77), by Holbein the youn-
ger ; the Misers (95) ; Venus and Cupid
(97) ; Saint Dominico receiving the rosary
from the Holy Virgin (100), by Loth ; the
Month of May (116), by Sandrart ; the
Month of June (117) ; the Archangel Ga-
briel with a boy (118); the Holy Virgin
with the infant Jesus is seated on a throne,
St. Rosalie on one side, and St. Dominico
on the other (119) ; portrait of the celebra-
ted mathematician, John Neudorfer, who,
sitting on a table, is instructing his son
(120); Lazarus in the bosom of Abraham,
and the rich man in the flames of Hell
(149) ; a Money-changer (80), by Quinten
Matsys.
Third Hall. This contains pictures of
the Netherland school to the end of the
17th century: Resurrection of Lazarus
(187); portrait of the organist, Henry Li-
berti, of Antwerp (193) ; Stag Hunt (208) ;
portrait of the Elector John Guillaume on
horseback; Abraham (228); Christ taking
leave of the Virgin Mary (84).
Four/h Hall. This contains ninety-five
paintings, all by Rubens. The gems are,
No. 249, Reconciliation of the Sa bines with
the Romans ; 250, portrait of Don Ferdi-
nand, infanta of Spain, and brother of King
Philip IV. ; 256, portrait of the artist, with
that of his first wife, Elizabeth Brants ;
269, the Massacre of the Holy Innocents;
258, the celebrated large picture of the Last
Judgment, 20 by 14 feet ; 260, portrait of
Helen Forman, Rubens's second wife ; 278,
Susanna at the Bath; 274, a Wild-boar
Chase: the animals are painted by Snv-
ders; 287, Rubens in his garden at Ant-
werp, with his wife and son ; 289, the
Nymphs of Diana asleep in the forest.
Fifth Hall. This saloon contains the
gems of the Dutch school, and many por-
traits of distinguished beauty by Rem-
brandt, viz., 329, 335, 343, and 349. No.
344, Cimon in Prison, his daughter nour-
ishing him. by Honthorst ; 310, an Angel
delivering St. Peter from Prison, by the
same artist; 317, a Wild-boar Hunt, by
Snydcrs ; 331, portrait of Van Dyck's wife,
by himself; 342, the Prodigal Son at table
with Courtesans.
Sixth Hall. This saloon contains some
gems by Murillo, Nos. 348, 349, 357, 358.
These are unsurpassed delineations of beg-
gar children. Notice the old woman ex-
amining the boy's head, not a very tempt-
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ing occupation, No. 376. No. 392 is tho
portrait of Mine, do la Vallicre as St. Mad-
eleine. 39G, Sunset at Home. I y ll<>raet-
Vernet. 407, Sunrise, by Claude Lorraine.
There arc a large number of gems by this
artist in this saloon, as well as by Joseph
Veniet and Poussin. 420, St. John in the
island of Patmos.
Saloons 7, 8, and 9 contain the gems of
the Italian school. In No. 7 we would
particularly notice 469, the Virgin Jl.ii-y,
with the Saviour and two saints, by Oor-
: 421. the Crowning of Christ, by
Giu-rcino; -171. the Penitent Magdalen, by
Carlo Dolce ; -177, the Massacre of the In-
nocents, by Carraccio.
In the eighth saloon there are several
gems by Paul Veronese : 485, his Holy
Family, and 487, his Death of Cleopatra;
513, the Woman taken in Adultery, by the
same; 522, Susanna and the Elders, by
Domenichino, a splendid composition ; f>27,
tho Assumption of the Virgin, by Guido,
proved beyond a doubt : some critics, to es-
tablish a reputation by questioning every
picture's identity, pretend to doubt it ; 532,
Christ crowned with Thorns, by Caravag-
gio.
The ninth saloon contains some glorious
pictures, including three by Raphael, the
largest. 534. a Holy Family : 584, the same
subject, similar to the Madonna della Seg-
giola at Florence ; and 581, his Portrait.
546, Leonardo da Vinci ; 538, the Dead
Christ on the knees of the Virgin ; 575
represent.* the Holy Virgin worshiping the
child .1
Tlf C( I'Mtts. The first six of these cab-
inets embrace the schools of the Lower
Rhine. The lirst and second contain fine
work* by Wilhelm von Cologne and Israel
van Mekenen. The third, fourth, and fifth
cabinets arc the works of Johann von Eyck,
Johann Hernling, and Schoreel. In the
sixth an: found several small paintings by
Hemskerk, as 96, a Crucifixion, and 105,
John in the Wilderness. The seventh cab-
inet contains the paintings from the Upper
German school : 120, portrait of Oswald
KM., by Durer; 142, the Holy Virgin;
128, portrait of Durer's Father at seventy
years of age ; 150, portrait of the Princess
Marie Jacqueline of Baden, wife of Duke
William IV. In the eighth cabinet are
some handsome paintings of the Nether-
land school : !'>'.}, Mater Dolorosa, by Du-
rer ; 161, the Dying Virgin, by Durer;
169, Victory of Alexander the Great over
Darius in the battle of Arbela, by Altdorfer;
17o and 187 are handsome pictures of an
old man and an old woman, by Denner.
The ninth, tenth, and eleventh cabinets
contain, for the most part, the works of
Teniers, Veen, Rembrandt, and Brouwer.
In the twelfth cabinet are found thirty-nine
paintings by Rubens, mostly taken from
the life of Mary de' Medicis. In the thir-
teenth cabinet are found several paintings
by Anton van Dyck. 367, a Gothic Church,
by Vliet ; 374 and 375, Landscapes, by Ka-
bel and Wynants ; 59, a Servant-maid,
by Gerard Dow. The fourteenth and fif-
teenth cabinets contain some very hand-
some paintings of the Netherland school.
The sixteenth cabinet contains only the
works of Adrian van der WerflF. Most of
them are taken from the life and sufferings
of Christ, besides some portraits of the
Elector of the Palatinate, Johann Wilhelm,
and the electress. 477, Abraham and Ha-
gar. The seveententh cabinet 506 and 512
represent two landscapes, by Polemburg;
528, a Knife-grinder, by Weenix.
The eighteenth cabinet contains some
very fine mosaics and fresco paintings. In
the nineteenth cabinet are found onlv a
few paintings, from the Italian and Byzan-
tine schools, by Masaccio, Giotto, Pisano,
and Cimabue. The twentieth, twenty-
first, and twenty-second contain some very
fine works of the Italian school ; but those
of the twenty-third are of an inferior kind.
The Cabinet of Copper-plate. This cabi-
net, which was founded by Karl Theodore,
and enlarged by Maximilian Joseph, occu-
pies the first floor of the Pinacothek. The
whole collection, which embraces some of
the finest and rarest works of the best mas-
ters, from the earliest date to the present
day. is arranged in the order of the school*,
which are explained by a catalogue con-
tained in the establishment. It is open
every day in the week except Saturday.
The Cabinet of Desiyns. This cabinet
contains about nine thousand of the origi-
nal designs of Raphael, Correggio, Michael
Angelo, Fra Bartolomeo, Giulio Romano,
M::iite_'na. Holbein, Albert l>iirer, Rem-
brandt, and others. Lately, this collection
has lieeii enriched by some works of Mau-
rice Ktigeixlas, drawn by him during his
travels through South America.
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Cabinet of Grecian and Etruscan Vases.
This rich collection, formed by King Louis,
occupies live saloons. The modern paint-
ings were copied from ancient drawings
found in the Etruscan tombs : they repre-
sent funeral rites, marriages, and festivals.
Most of the vases of terra-cotta were found
in Sicily and Greece ; they date from the 6th
century B.C., and are composed of funeral
vases, destined only for solemn ceremonies
and for graves ; gymnic vases, given as
prizes in public games ; and nuptial vases.
The New Pinacothek, containing the pict-
ures of modern painters, is open Tuesday,
Thursday, Saturday, and Sunday, from 8 to
12, and 2 to 4. Catalogue, 36 kr. It is two
stories high, and contains 52 rooms. The
exterior walls are decorated with colossal
frescoes by Nilson, from designs by Kaul-
bach. As you enter the building, notice the
colossal model of Bavaria standing on the
triumphal car drawn by four lions. This
work, in bronze, decorates the Gate of Vic-
tory in Ludwigsstrasse. On the ground
floor is a fine collection of paintings on por-
celain, comprising many of the gems of the
Old Pinacothek. Here is seen the portrait
of Lola Montez, removed from the Gallery
of Beauties. In the first saloon notice the
large portrait of Ludwig I., by Kaulbach.
In the centre of the room is a large mala-
chite vase, presented by the Emperor Nich-
olas of Russia ; also a table of porphyry,
containing vases of the same marble, from
Charles XIV. of Sweden. In Room No. 2 is
Sc'aorn's great picture of the " Deluge," left
unfinished. This and Kaulbach's " De-
struction of Jerusalem" are considered the
gems of the gallery. No. 4 contains Piloty's
painting of the astronomer Seni near the
dead body of Wallenstein, and Achenbach's
Tempest at Sea. No. 6 contains Rottman's
23 Grecian landscapes, painted on the walls
in encaustic. In addition to these six large
saloons, there are six small, and fourteen
cabinets. No. 3 of the small saloons is well
worth attention ; the walls are painted by
Kaulbach, and from these paintings Nilson
took the designs for the large frescoes which
adorn the outside of the building. The sub-
jects are No. 32, King Ludwig surrounded
bv Artists and Savans ; 33, The Artists of
Modern Rome ; Artists receiving the Orders
of the King ; the Combat against Bad Taste
(the artists executing the ideas of the King) ;
a Fete of the Arts, in which they crown the
656
statue of the king; the allegorical figures of
Architecture, Sculpture, and Bronze Cast-
ing; Painting in Fresco, Painting on Glass,
and Painting on Porcelain ; the Manufact-
ure of Glass- Painting; the Ro3 r al Foundry
in full operation ; Presentation of the Art-
ists' Album to the King. Between the win-
dows, on the north side, are colossal por-
traits of fourteen of the greatest modern art-
ists: viz., Schraudolph, Kaulbach, Schorn,
Schwanthaler, Zubland, Rottman, Hess,
Schnorr, Gaertner, P. Hess, Ohlmiiller,
Cornelius, Klenz, and Thorwaldsen. On
the ground floor is the Antfquariiim, con-
taining a fine collection of Egyptian, Ro-
man, Greek, and German antiquities, and
statues in bronze, pottery, and marble.
Near the Pinacothek is the new North-
ern Cemetery.
Glyptothek, or Sculpture-gallery, opened
in 1830 by King Ludwig. Open Mondays,
Wednesdays, and Saturdays, from 8 to 12,
and from 2 to 4. This building is in the
Ionic order, and is one of the most chaste
and beautiful buildings in Munich. It is
surrounded by a handsomely laid-out gar-
den. The front is ornamented with sculp-
ture, corresponding with the Greek style,
that is, niches instead of windows, in which
stand, on the front, the statues of Vulcan,
Phidias, Prometheus, Pericles, Hadrian,
and Dajdalus. In the niches on the eaat
side were placed, in 1857, the statue of Ca-
nova, with the bust of Paris, by Thorwald-
sen ; Rauch, with a statuette of the King
Maximilian Joseph, by Tcnerani; and in
the year 1859, Schwanthaler, with the stat-
uette of Bavaria ; and of Gibson, by Brug-
ger. The paintings and decorations of the
interior are most exquisite. The sculp-
tures are arranged in chronological order,
commencing with Egypt, the cradle of
sculpture, and the basis of the Grecian art,
which was brought to such a high state of
perfection in Italy about the time of Prax-
iteles. The collection occupies 12 rooms ;
each room is devoted to a particular epoch
in the art, ornamented in keeping with its^
contents. The floors are of marble, the
ceilings richly frescoed, and the walls paint-
ed in imitation of marble. Room No. 1 con
tains Egyptian antiquities; 2, Greek and
Etruscan ; ;5, the valuable marbles from
the temple of Jupiter Panhellenius, yEgina,
considered the most valuable sculptures
of ancient art that have reached us ; 4, the
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Hall of Apollo, containing works of the
school of Phidias : this room takes its name
from the principal figure which occupies a
place in it, -the Apollo Cetharoeclus," or
Apollo of the Harp, formerly named the
Barberini Muee, and is an exquisite piece
of sculpture; No. 5, the Hall of Bacchus,
contains the Barberini Faun, or "Sleeping
Satvr:" it is considered from the chisel of
either Scopas or Praxiteles, and was found
in the ditch of the castle of St. Angelo, at
Koine, supposed to have been hurled from
the top of the wall by the Greeks when de-
fending themselves against the Goths ; the
6th, or Hall of the Sons of Niobe : the most
attractive figure in the room is that of the
kneeling Niobe, which, although armless
and headless, speaks with a most remark-
able truthfulness to life.
Nos. 7 and 8 do not contain any sculp-
ture, Imt they are ornamented with fres-
coes by Cornelius and his pupils, illustra-
ting the destruction of Troy by Homer.
No. 7, the Hall of the Gods, which repre-
sents the three kingdoms of the Ancient
Mythology, v\/.., Jupiter, Pluto, and Nep-
tune. The Trojan Hall (No. 8) is separa-
ted from the last by a small vestibule,
which contains some glorious frescoes : no-
tice Prometheus, having formed man, Mi-
nerva gives him life. The principal frescoes
represent the events which gave rise to the
Trojan war. No. 9, the Hall of the Heroes :
notice here the statue of Alexander the
Great, No. 157. Hall of the Romans (No.
10) is the largest and most splendid in the
Glyptothek, and is tilled with gems of Ro-
man art, sarcophagi, altars, busts, and re-
liefs. No. 11, Hall of Colored Sculpture :
notice the bronze statue of Proserpine, the
black and white marble statue of Ceres.
No. 12. the Modern Hall, containing works
of the present da}'. In the centre of this
room stands Thorwaldsen's statue of Ado-
nis ; Venus and Paris, by Canova; Louis
I., king of Bavaria, !>y Thorwaldsen ; and
numerous other gems by modern arti>t>.
A catalogue is for sale, and will be found
very serviceable.
Propylaen. This chaste, substantial, and
elegant structure is just finished (1863).
It occupies the northwest side of the square
on which stands the Glyptothek and A >is-
steilunfftgebuude, or Palace of Fine Arts.
It is built after the Doric order of architec-
ture, that the three buildings in the square
may represent severally the three Grecian
orders Corinthian, Doric, and Ionic. The
Propylaen is a triple archway, which leads
to the Nymphenburg, a royal summer res-
idence. The models of the relief in the
frieze were executed by Schwanthaler be-
fore his death ; the marble is by his cous-
in, X. Schwanthaler. This splendid com-
position is considered the late artist's mas-
terpiece. The side toward the country
represents, first, the centre figure, Victori-
ous Helas ; on the ri_rht and left appear
figures of Victorious, with trophies of both
land and sea: farther to the right, groups
of combatants and vanquished warriors;
a priest ; a wife rescuing her child from a
barbarian ; a colossal goddess. On the
left, a young hero avenging the loss of his
wife ; a dying chieftain ; a youth rowing
a boat; a (ire-god setting ships on fire, etc.
On the side toward the city we see, in the
centre, Otho, late king of Greece (who is a
Bavarian prince), surrounded by figures
of warriors, of Peace, Religion, Science,
Poetry, tradesmen, and agriculturists. The
original models may be seen at the atelier
of X. Schwanthaler. There are several pri-
vate collections of pictures in Mur.ich well
deserving notice, but the hours -\vhen they
may be seen being uncertain, travelers
are referred to the gallery of Wimmer &
Co. for particulars. In the Old Picture-
gallery is deposited the united collection of
antiquities ; and the University, formerly
the Jesuits' College, contains all the spec-
imens of coins and medals, and Museum of
Natural History. The fossil collection,
situated on the ground floor, is very fine.
Wimmer <$ Co.'s Collection of Fine Arts,
j No. 3 Briennerstrasse is on a more extensive
scale than any other, not only in Munich,
but in Germany. The gallery of art con-
sists of different branches : eight rooms,
with modern paintings by the best Mu-
nich artists. A large and handsome gal-
lery especially for paintings in porcelain
[contain over two hundred of the finest
! copies from celebrated paintings in the
'European galleries.
I As Munich is the city most celebrated
for its paintings on porcelain, so is the Wim-
mer collection one of the most celebra-
ted, not only for the number of its paint-
ings, but for their beauty and uncommon
, size of plates. These paintings received
! the medal at the last London International
657
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Exhibition. Other saloons are devoted to
the colossal works of Hans Makart, Piloty,
:i large collection of first-rate copies in oil etc., which are exhibited during the summer
of the best pictures in the Munich gal- months at their rooms in the Royal Odeon,
leries. This galL-ry extends over 6000
square feet.
The gallery of Whinner and Co. has
befn in existence since 1825, and is one of
the best known of its kind in the world.
The members of this firm have acquired
such a reputation for probity that orders
are sent to them from all parts, leaving
subject and price to their taste and judg-
ment.
This exhibition, representing all branch-
es of fine arts, with the exception of sculp-
ture, is decidedly deserving of a visit from
every traveler in Europe ; and to it the
fine galleries of our Stewarts, Lennoxes,
Aspinwalls, Belmonts, and other leading
citizens and patrons of the fine arts, are in-
debted for many of their gems.
It may not be generally known that
Munich is at the head of all cities in the
world for photography. Such, neverthe-
less, is the fact. All branches of the arts,
however, are carried to a greater state of
perfection here than elsewhere ; and the
photographs of Munich are as far in ad-
vance of the photographs of Paris as those
of New York are to those of London.
The principal jeweler of Munich, and one
of the first in Germany, is Merk, No. 13
Odeonsplatz, where jewelry is manufact-
ured in every variety and sold at whole-
sale prices. Mr. Merk has received prizes
and decorations at several exhibitions for
excellence of workmanship in this industry.
The Fine Art Gallery of E. A. Fleisch-
mann, No. 1 Maximilianstrasse, close to the
Hotel Four Seasons, and founded in 1806,
contains works of some of the most promi-
nent German artists, Knauss, Defregger,
Wittelbacherer Platz. The royal family,
the Berlin National, and the Dresden gal-
leries are among their customers, besides
numerous Continental and American ama-
teurs. The firm having branches in Lon-
don, at 17 Charla St., Haymarket, and in
New York, at M. Max Herrmann's, 80
Pearl St., pictures can be forwarded to either
place, and packing, forwarding, and custom-
house clearances attended to by the firm,
all trouble to the customer being avoided.
The Museum of Schwanthaler, Bava-
ria's greatest sculptor, should be visited.
It is situated in the street that bears his
name, No. 90.
Travelers should by no means fail to
pay a visit to the superb Exhibition of fine
Arts, opposite the Glyptothek. It is or-
ganized liy all the principal artists of Mu-
nich, contains several different branches of
fine arts, and will be found not only a sight
worth seeing, but even one of the most in-
teresting sights of the city. It is open ev-
ery day from 9 A.M. till 5 P.M., from May
to October. The paintings exhibited are all
selected by a jury chosen from the Munich
Association of Fine Arts, and are all for sale.
Hofbrciuhaus, or Royal Brewery, near
the Four Seasons Hotel, Platzl, will well
repay a visit, whether you drink beer or
not. Its beer is very celebrated.
Stained glass in the highest perfection
of the art has always had its home in Mu-
nich, cathedrals, churches, chapels, and pri-
vate residences in every quarter of the globe
receiving their beautiful windows from the
Royal Glass-painting Manufactory (Kdnirj-
liche Hnfglasmalerei) of this city, situated in
the Briennerstrasse, No. 23. Chefs-faeuvrt,
finished and in course of preparation, illus-
trative of every theme and subject, are al-
ways to be seen. Herr Zettler, the director,
is the chief of a group of some thirty artists
who devote their time and talent to the
work, which will well repay a visit.
The Public Library of Munich, next to
that of Paris, is the largest in the world.
The building is of irurmnse extent, and
three stories in height. It is said to contain
800,000 volumes, 23,000 MSS., a collection
F. A. Kaulbach, Gabriel Max, etc., as well of engravings which number 300,000, and
as a variety of the productions of younger j 10,000 Greek and Roman coins. Among
artists. The firm is constantly acquiring i the many valuable relics in this library ia
658
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the Bible of Luther, which contains his
own and Melanchthon'fl portraits. The su-
perb Reading Hull is adorned with the
busts of the dukes of Bavaria.
The. manuscripts, which are of artist-
like, historic, or intrinsic value, are pre-
served with great care in the Hall of
" C'imelien ;" the most ini|K>rtant of which
are the following: the Tables of Wax,
after the manner of the Roman tables of
tha loth century; Codex Purpureus; the
Gospels, written in gold and silver on pur-
ple vellum of the 9th century ; the Codex
Aluricianus, of the Cth century ; Codex
traditionum Ecclesiaj Kavenrii.tis, on pa-
pyrus of the 10th century ; a most su-
perb Bible and Missals, given to the ca-
thedral of Bamberg by the Emperor St. j
Henry: Orl. Lasso's Seven Penitential
I'salms ; Sehah-Nameh, an heroic Persian
poem by Firdusi, ornamented with minia-
tures; a Prayer-book, printed in 1515, i
with drawings on the margin by Diirer
and Cranach; the Tournament of Duke
William IV.
The National .!/,*=:..! is open daily, ex-
cept Monday, from 10 to 2. Sunday and i
Thursday gratis ; other days. :>0 kr. This
magnificent structure is 520 feet in length,
and was founded by Maximilian II. in
1855, and finished in 1*68. It was de- j
signed by Hi /./. and executed under the
instructions of Kuppelmayer. The attic
of the middle structure is surmounted by
a Bavarian lion. It contains one of the
richest collections of antiquity, objects of
art, and curiosities in the world ; and the
Museum owes its ^roat success to the abil-
ity of M. d'Aretin and M. de Hefner-Alten-
eck, who have collected and admirably
arranged all the antiquities and objects
of curiosity that were formerly scattered
about in the royal palaces, and other places
in Bavaria.
The gro'ind foor on the right wing con-
tains Roman. Germanic, and Celtic antiq-
uities ; the left wing contains objects of
Gothic art from the 13th to the loth cen-
tury.
The first jloor, right wing, contains the
collection of armor, weapons, costumes, and
musical instruments ; the left, the < 'erumic
collection. There are 29 rooms on this
floor, ornamented with a series of 143 lar^e
frescoes bv Munich artists, taken from sub-
jects in Bavarian history.
The second Jloor ia filled with works of
Renaissance and modern times, with splen-
did specimens of tapestry of different pe-
riods, down to the gobelin of Napoleon I.
It would be impossible to give a de-
scription of the thousand articles of in-
terest in this vast collection ; the pur-
chase of a catalogue is therefore recom-
mended.
Opposite the museum is the new and
handsome Government Palace, built of terra
cotta. It contains seven large halls and
two hundred bureaus.
The Picture-Gallery of Bun n von Schack,
19 Brunnenstrasse, is open daily from 2 to 5.
The M<ixiiniicin: um Museum, just over the
Isur, at the end of Maximilianstrasse, is open
Wed. and Sat. from 10 to 12 ; fee otherwise.
The Bavarian Bronze-Foundery, or Erz-
giesserei, is open daily from 1 to 6 ; Sun-
day, 12 to 2; fee, 12 kr. This is an es-
tablishment that every American nm-t
take an interest in visiting, as from it have
been sent nearly all the great statues one
sees in America. The equestrian statue
of Washington, at Richmond, Va., the stat-
ues of Patrick Henry, Marshall, Jeffer-
son ; Rogers's bronze doors for the Capitol
at Washington, with nearly all of that fa-
mous artist's great works, have been cast
here, not speaking of the mammoth statue
of " Bavaria." Nearly every city of Ger-
many has some specimen of its work.
The Roynl Academy >f Arts and Sciences
in Xeuhausergap.se is open daily, from 10
to 12. It is divided into three divisions :
Architecture, Sculpture, and Painting. It
was founded in 1808. The ground floor
contains plaster casts of antique works.
The studio of Carl von Piloty is also
here ; he is at present director of the Acad-
emy. The Academy of Science contains
collections of fossils, of physical and opti-
cal instruments, a cabinet of minerals, a
geognostic cabinet, and cabinet of coins
and medals.
A visit should be paid to the studio of
Mr. David Neal, 6 Maximilianplatz : as an
historical painter he is unsurpassed by any
of his countrymen abroad ; indeed few for-
e ; ^n artists can compete with him. His
last work (Maria Stuart), painted for Mr.
Mills of California. i~ a great success.
The Xeue Ratlthaus, recently construct-
ed, deserves a visit. It is situated on the
north side of the Marienplatz. The Fest
659
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saal is adorned with a fine fresco by Piloty,
and 9 fine glass paintings from the Hof-
glasmalerei, by Zettler.
The ^fonuments of Munich are numer-
ous, the principal of which is the gigantic
bronze statue of Bavaria, modeled by
Schwanthaler, Bavaria's greatest sculptor,
and cast in bronze at the Royal Foundery
by Miller. This statue, which is consid-
|ered the most elaborate and comprehen-
sive of the kind in the world, stands on a
granite pedestal thirty feet high, the top
of which is reached by 49 steps. The
statue itself stands sixty-six feat high, and
seventy-eight tons of metal were used in
the casting. It was commenced in 1844,
and finished in 1850. The material is
mostly the cannon captured from different
nations ; the principal were the Turkish
guns taken at the battle of Navarino. In
the figure's left hand is a wreath of glory,
in her right a sword adorned with circling
laurels, prepared to crown all those found
worthy of such glory. The attitude of
this commanding figure is exceedingly
fine. She is clothed in flowing garments
and a fur tunic. At her side stands the
Bavarian lion, of colossal size. In the
rear of the statue a bronze door is placed,
through which you pass up a flight of
stairs to the top of the pedestal ; then an-
other, of iron, to the inside of the head,
where eight persons can comfortably sit
at one time. It is said that the day on
which it was raised to its place twenty-
nine men and two boys were in the head,
and that, amid the universal joy and as-
tonishment of the multitude, they emerged
from one of the locks of Bavaria's hair,
and one after another descended a long
ladder. On one of the locks which rep-
resent hair is the following inscription
in German : ' This colossal statue, erect-
ed by Ludwig I., king of Bavaria, was
designed and modeled by Ludwig von
Schwanthaler, and was cast in bronze
and executed, between the years 1844 and
\1850, by Ferdinand Miller." The arms
are 24 feet 9 inches long, the nose 1 foot
11 inches, the mouth 15 inches wide, and
the eyes 11 inches. The total cost of the
statue, not comprising the pedestal, was
.7 '.'T.i 100. Ladies with delicate nerves had
better not make the ascent into the head
during the summer months, as the great
660
heat of the bronze often causes them to
faint. To restore them there is impossi-
ble, and it is by no means expeditious un-
der the circumstances. Surrounding the
statue, something in the form of a horse-
shoe, is the Ruhmeshalle, or Hall of Glory.
The centre front is 214 feet long, the sides
93 feet; it is GO feet high, including the
base. There are 48 pillars, in the Doric,
each 24 feet high, between which are seen
affixed to the wall busts of Bavaria's
greatest inen. The ends of the two wings
are adorned with four female figures, by
Schwanthaler, which represent the four
provinces of Bavaria, viz., Bavaria, the
Palatinate, Franconia, and Suabia. The
frieze is ornamented with forty-four vic-
tories, between which are placed forty-
eight figures Industry. Science, and the
Arts. The whole is situated a short dis-
tance out of town, on an elevated spot in
the Theresian Meadows, where the annual
October Volkfest takes place, and contig-
uous to the race-course.
In front of the Xeubau, or New Palace,
in Max-Joseph Platz, is the monument of
the king Maximilian Joseph I. It is of
colossal size, cast in bronze, and repre-
sents the king seated on a throne. It is
from the designs of Rauch, of Berlin. In
the new Maximilian Street, opposite the
Government Palace, notice the monument
erected to General Deroy, who died on the
battle-field of Polotzk in 1812.
In the Wittelsliarh Platz, near which
stands the palace, deserving a visit, notice
the magnificent equestrian statue erected
to the Elector Maximilian I. The pedes-
tal is of marble, the horse and rider bronze.
It was modeled by Schwanthaler, and cast
by Stiglmayer. On the Carolinenplatz,
surrounded by gardens and beautiful resi-
dences, is a splendid bronze obelisk erect-
ed by Ludwig to the Bavarians who fell
in the Russian campaign of 1*1 '2.
The Slerjesthor. or Gate of Victory, situ-
ated at the end of the Ludwigstrasse, was
i finished in 1850. and is a most exquisite
| monument ; it was built after the model
of Constantino's triumphal arch at Rome,
and dedicated to the Bavarian army by
King Ludwig. The arch is crowned by a
colossal statue of Bavaria in a triumphal
| chariot, harnessed with four Bavarian lions,
the whole executed in bronze from designs
| by Von Wagner. At the other end of this
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beautiful street notice the Feldherrenhal'e,
or Hall of the Marshals, with the bronze
statues of General Tilly and Prince Carl
Wrede.
The last erected, and one of the most
beautiful monuments in Munich, that to
Maximilian II., who died March 10, 1864, I
to the great grief not only of Munich, for
which he had done so much, but of all
Havana, was unveiled September, 1875,
amid great rejoicings. It is situated at one
end of the magnificent new street he built,
vi/.. Maximiliansstrasse.
The socle of the monument is of black
syenite (the hardest stone found in Bava-
ria) ; the upper part is, however, of red
granite (found in Saxony). All the ma-
sonry work was executed by Ackermann.
of Weissenstadt. The socle, including
pedestal, is 41 feet high, the figure of the
king 19 feet ; the whole 60 feet high.
The sculptura is by Professor Zumbusch,
of Vienna. The whole was cast in the Royal
Bronze-Foundery here, under the direction
of the present proprietor, Mr. Miller. The
four figures represent Justice, Science, Peac.~,
and Power, the height of which, if standing,
would be 16 feet. There are four boys
with shields in front, holding up wreaths
of laurel.
The cost of the entire work was 164,000
florins.
In Jfarienplatz, or Market-place, stands
one of the oldest monuments of Munich:
it is a pillar of red marble, crowned with a
bronze statue of the Virgin and Child, and
is called Marien-Saule. It was erected by
Maximilian I. in 1033, in memory of the
victory gained by him over Frederick, the
elector palatine. There are several fine
monuments, some of them erected recent-
ly, on the Promenadenplatz.
The churches of Munich are ven r inter-
esting, but do not compare with the pict-
ure-galleries in point of interest. The
principal is the Cathedral, or f'rauenkirche,
which was founded at the end of the 13th
century. The present building was finish-
ed at the end of the 15th : it is surmounted
by two tall towers, variously stated by
different authors at from 318 to 335 feet in
height. The most remarkable monument
in the church, and one deserving particular
attention, is the tomb of the Kmperor Louis
of Bavaria, erected to his memory by the
Elector Maximilian I. in the year io.'-_' ;
VOL. II. F 2
and in the catafalque beneath repose the
remains of the Bavarian royal family from
1295 to 1G26. The organ is remarkable
fur its size and tone. A very fine picture
of the Assumption, by P. Candide, may be
seen over the high-altar.
Mlfhatlshnfkirche, or Jesuits' Church
of St. Michael, erected for the Jesuits by
Duke William V. The interior of the
church is in the Corinthian style, high-
ly ornamented. The altar-piece is by
Schwartz, and represents the Fall of the
Angels. The great attraction of the church
is Thorwaldsen's monument to Eugene
Beauharnais, duke of Leuchtenberg, for-
mer vice-king of Italy, erected to his mem-
ory by his widow, daughter of the King
Max-Joseph : it is of pure Carrara marble.
The prince is represented standing, dressed
in a plain toga, before the door of ilie tomb :
his left hand on his heart, in his right he
holds a crown of laurels. At his feet lie
the iron crown of Italy, his helmet, and
armor. To his right stands the. Muse of
History, and to his left the Genius of
Death and Immortality. The tower of
this church fell down in the course of its
erection, and has not since been finished.
The Tkeatiner-/fofkirche, situated in Lud-
wigstrasse, was built by Adelaide, wife of
the Elector Ferdinand Maria, in pursuance
of a vow so to do should she be blessed
with an heir to the throne, having been
married eight years without that event
having taken place. The altar-piece rep-
resents Adelaide, her husband, and son of-
fering up thanks to St. Cajetan. There is
a Descent from the Cross, by Tintorett.
All the royal family, from Ferdinand Ma-
ria to Maximilian Joseph, are interred be-
neath the church. Notice particularly the
tomb of the Princess Josephine Max Caro-
line, who died at the age of 11 years : it is
executed by Eberhard from designs by
Klenze.
The Basilica of St. Bonifacius, situated
on Carlsstrasse. was constructed at the ex-
pense of King Ludwig, to commemorate the
twenty-fifth anniversary of his marriage,
or silver wedding. The first stone was laid
October 12. 1835. and it was consecrated in
November, 1850. It is 262 feet long by
1:25 wide and 80 high. The interior is di-
vided into five naves by C6 marble col-
umns, with richly ornamented capitals.
The walls are most beautifully frescoed by
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STAHRENBERG.
Hess and his scholars. The upper pict-
ures in the middle nave, 36 in number,
represent the spread of Christianity in Ger-
many. The twelve large pictures repre-
sent episodes in the life of St. Bonifacius,
the most influential of all the German
saints. The ten smaller pictures represent
the less important events of his life. In
the niche behind the high-altar notice the
magnificent fresco of the Saviour surround-
ed by a glory of angels : beneath are the
saints and martyrs. In the centre, St. Boni-
face ; to his right and left, those saints who
have in particular labored for the advance-
ment of Christianity in Bavaria. All of
these frescoes are of a depth and freshness
of coloring which oil painting can never
attain ; and the whole interior is consider-
ed one of the most beautiful creations of
modern art. To the right, after you enter
the church, notice a sarcophagus in mar-
ble : it is destined to contain the body of
Ludwig I. after his death. His queen,
Thcrese, who died in 1854, now lies here.
Ludwiyskirche, or church of St. Louis, in
Ludwigstrasse, is 230 feet long, 150 broad,
and has two towers which rise to the height
of 220 feet. The front is ornamented with
statues of Christ and the four Evangelists,
by Schwanthaler, and colossal statues of
St. Peter and St. Paul. The frescoes of
the interior are most exquisite : they were
designed by Cornelius. The lion, howev-
er, of the church is his great fresco of the
Last Judgment, which was designed by
him in Rome in 1835, and painted by him-
self in 1836, 1837, and 1838. It is surpassed
by few pictures either in size or execution :
it is 63 feet high and 39 wide.
The other churches are the parish church
of Maria Hilf, on the other side of the riv-
er, in the suburb of Au ; the chapel of All
Saints, behind the palace ; and the parish
church of St. Peter, which is the oldest in
Munich.
Visit the Tsar Thor, one of the ancient
entrances into the old city. It w is re-
stored by Gartner in 1833, and decorated
with a beautiful fresco.
One of the finest promenades and re-
treats in warm weather is the English Gar-
den, which adjoins the Hofgarten before
described ; it is four miles long by half a
mile wide. It was laid out by Karl Theo-
dore, the elector, but owes its adornment
principally to Maximilian Joseph I. Here
662
we have beautiful meadows, magnificent
groups of trees, lakes, fountains, running
brooks, and shady walks. There are also
bath-houses, temples, and pagodas.
At the end of the English Garden, on
the right side of the Isar river, is Dr.
Steinbacher's celebrated cure establish-
ment Brunnthal, where, during twenty
3'ears past, patients have been cured with
good effect by a new system the Schrotli-
Priessnitz, in combination with Banting
cure, electro -galvanism, gymnastics, etc.
A new and beautiful bathing-saloon has
all the hydraulic improvements which are
now known. The establishment is also
much frequented in winter time.
The Strafarbdtshaus, or Great Prison,
as well as the Public Cemetery, will well
repay a visit. The royal painting glass
manufactory should also be visited ; fee
12 kr. Some most remarkable sights may
be seen at the Anatomical Museum; fee 24
kr. The principal theatres of Munich are
the Theatre National and Royal or Court
Theatre, in Max-Joseph Platz ; the Thea-
tre Royal of the Residenz; and the Volks,
or People's Theatre, Gaertner Platz.
The principal excursions in the vicinity
of Munich are, first, the royal palace of
Nymphenburg, about three miles distant,
connected with Munich by a very beau-
tiful avenue of linden-trees. It is built
something in the style of Versailles. It
was commenced by the Elector Ferdinand
Maria for his queen, Adelaide, in the year
1663. It is surrounded with the usual
number of fountains, parks, gardens, etc.
In one part of the side pavilions the royal
porcelain factory is situated.
The royal palace of Schleissheim, about
two hours' walk from Munich, will well
repay a visit. It formerly contained a
splendid gallery of paintings, but the prin-
cipal paintings were removed to the Pina-
cothek some time since ; there is still, how-
ever, a fine collection here.
An excursion should be made, if the trav-
eler have time,to the Lake of Stahrenberg, in
1 h. 5 m. from Munich ; fare, 2 marks 10 pf.
Stahrenberg. Hotels, Baynscher Jlof
and Pellet. From these houses there is a
lovely view of the chain of Alps. Prince
Charles has a handsome chateau behind
the town.
At Possenhnfen there is a chateau, the
property of the Duke Maximilian. Feld-
o a
Harper'
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1 osuii*. Caotre
8 ffmaUf Calient umd.
frlyt** Sa/uUr
9 Biklu'thtt, und.
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AUGSBURG.
[THE EMPIRE OF GERMANY.]
afing, from whence a fine prospect can be
had, is one of the places the most visited
on the lake. On the other side of the lake
(fifteen minutes to cross) is Lfoui. Near
this is the Chateau de Berg, which belongs
to the king. The visitor should ascend the
height RottmcaukOht, from which place there
is a most charming view.
There is a small steamer running on the
lake. Return tickets are sold at reduced
price at Munich.
A new line of railway has been opened
direct from Munich to Lindau (Lake Con-
stance), the nearest route to Switzerland.
Time, 5 h. 20 m. ; fare, first class, 20 marks
15 pf. ; second class, 14 marks 20 pf. (Route
33, Vol. III.)
From Lindau, steamer on the lake to
Constance. Ili/tel Bad, a new and splen-
did establishment.
Munich to Paris. Time, 23 h. 35 m. ;
fare, first class, 88 marks 80 pf. ; second
class, C4 marks 50 pf.
Munich to Leipzig. Time, 11 h. 55 m. ;
fare, first class, 49 marks 30 pf.
Munich to Frankfort. Time, 9 h. 41 m. ;
fare, first class, 37 marks 40 pf.
Munich to Berlin. Time, 1C h. 5 m. ;
fare, first class, 74 marks 40 pf.
Munich to I'ienna. Time, 11 h. 56 m. ;
fare, 42 marks 45 pf.
ROUTE No. 173.
Munich to Strasburg and Paris, via A ugs-
bury, Ulm, and Stnttgnrt. Time, 36 hours
(to Paris) ; fare, first class, 96 marks ; sec-
ond class, 76 marks.
From Munich to Augsburg. Time, 1 h.
35 m.
Augsburg is an important manufactur-
ing town, situated on the river Lech, a
branch of the Danube, in the western por-
tion of the kingdom of Bavaria. It con-
tains 52,000 inhabitants. There is noth-
ing of importance here to detain the trav-
eler. The city was formerly surrounded
by walls ; they are now, however, razed to
the ground, and laid out in very agreeable
promenades. It was a free city of the em-
AUGSBUBO.
! pirc from 12C8. In the 15th and 16th cen-
turies it had attained its greatest prosper-
ity, and was the centre of commerce be-
tween the east and the north of Europe.
Many of its citizens enjoyed great wealth
and power, and three of its maidens (one
the daughter of a barber) married princes.
I The celebrated "Fugger" family raised
themselves within a century from poor
weavers to the wealthiest nobles of the day,
and became the creditors of monarch* ;
and Welser, another of its citizens, fitted
out a squadron to take possession of Vene-
zuela, which had been pledged to him by
the Emperor Charles V. Augsburg is cele-
brated for the making of clocks, and its
goldsmith and jewelry works.
The Bishop's Palace, or Sch/oss, is his-
torically noted for containing the hall in
which the Protestant Confession rf Faith
was presented to the Emperor Charles V.,
1530. Here also the interview between
Martin Luther and the Cardinal Cajetan
took place in 1542. The Cathedral is an
irregular building in the Byzantine style.
The bas-reliefs on its bronze doors are very
fine.
In Maximiliansstrasse, which is the prin-
cipal street in Augsburg, are three bronze
fountains ; two of them, by Adrian de
Vries, are very interesting specimens of
art.
The gallery of paintings situated in the
old convent of St. Catharine contains a
good collection of the old German masters,
Burgkmair, Zeitblom, etc. It is open
every day, from 10 to 12 : fee, 24 kr. There
are several pictures of Hans Holbein the
elder, who was a native of Augsburg. The
leading political paper in German}', the
A Ugemcine Zeittmg, is published here by the
bookseller Baron von Cotta.
Augsburg contains an historical souvenir
in tin- house in which the Emperor Napo-
leon III. resided with his mother between
the years 1821 and 1824. The house at
the present time belongs to Count Fugger-
Kirchberg-Weisscnhorn. Prince Napoleon
during that time attended the academy of
St. Anne.
In the centre of Place Louis, near the
Hotel de Ville. stands the fountain of Au-
gustus, founder of the city, executed in
bronzu in liJOO. The Fountains of Her-
cules and Mercury are also both executed
in bronze. To the right is the fine " House
ULM.
[THE EMPIRE OF GERMANY.]
STUTTGART.
of Fugger," the exterior of which was dec-
orated in 1863 by paintings in fresco illus-
trating events in the life of this family.
The house where Philippina Welser, who
married the Archduke Ferdinand of Aus-
tria, was born, is here pointed out.
To visit the castle of HoheKschwangau,
and examine its superb frescoes and glori-
ous scenery, requires six hours' time from '
Augsburg two, by rail, to Kempten, and
four, by coach, to Fussen. The castle is
about four miles from Fussen, and is situ-
ated on the top of a high rock. It was an
old Roman castle, and was rebuilt and
decorated by the late King of Bavaria
when crown-prince in 1832. The frescoes |
are most magnificent. The first floor is
used by the queen, and consists of three
saloons and three chambers. The second
floor, occupied by his majesty the king, '
consists of six saloons. The third floor is
reserved for the royal princes. The royal
family usually reside here a few weeks
every summer.
From Augsburg to Ulm, distance 53 miles;
time, 1 h. 50 m.
Ulm is the second town of importance in
the kingdom of Wiirtemberg. It is finely i
situated on the Danube ; contains 24,800 j
inhabitants, and a garrison of 5000 sol-
diers. Hotels, Kronprinz and Russischer
Hof. From 1842 to 1866 it was a fortress
of the Germanic Confederation, jointly
garrisoned by Bavaria, Wiirtemberg, and
Austria. The army of Wiirtemberg now
composes the 28d army corps of the Im-
perial army. It was formerly one of the
free cities of the German empire, and is
still a place of considerable trade. The
manufacture of linen is one of the most
active brandies of industry carried on
here. There is nothing to detain the trav-
eler unless he has plenty of time, the Min-
ster, or church, being the only object of
interest in the town. That, certainly, is
very fine, its carved work being equal to
any thing of the kind in Germany. The
military importance of Ulm has occa-
sioned its frequent conquest during pe-
riods of war. The destruction of Gen-
eral Mack's army by Napoleon, when,
through the stupidity of the general,
30,000 Austrians surrendered their for-
tress without striking a blow, forms
the chief event of the kind in its mod-
ern history. Large quantities of Khine,
664
Swiss, and other wines are shipped from
here to Vienna.
The cathedral of Ulm was founded in
1377, and is one of the finest Gothic churches
in Germany, though still unfinished. Its
tower, which is intended to be 475 feet high,
is only 2-10. An inscription announces that
it was ascended in 1492 by the Kmperor
Maximilian. There is a magnificent view
of the Alps from the summit. The restora-
tion of this edifice has been going on for
some years, and it is expected that the
tower will one day be finished.
Notice the beautiful entrance underneath
the tower. The stalls are finely carved in
oak, and are from the 15th century ; they
were executed by Jorg .^yrlin. The stained-
glass windows are of the same date. The
pulpit and shrine are very beautiful ; they
were executed in 1500. The organ is the
largest in Germany, and has 100 stops.
The chapel of the ttesserer family contains
a beautiful statue of Eitel Bessercr. The
custodian lives on one side of the principal
entrance ; fee, 30 kr.
The Rathhaus is situated on the market-
place. It is constructed in the half Gothic
and half Renaissance style, and is decorated
on the outside with frescoes.
From Ulm there are lines of railway
running to Friedrichshafen, on Lake Con-
stance ; also to Lindau, on the same lake.
From U.m to Stuttgart. Time, 2 h. 30 m.
Passing (JeisKngen, above which rise the
ruins of H'1f,-nst<in, and the stations of
Goppingen, a nice modern town, and Ploch-
ingen, the town of Esslinr/en is passed (for
description, see Route No. 179), and we ar-
rive at Stuttga: t.
KINGDOM OF WUKTEMBERG.
The government of AVurtenibprg is con-
stitutional and hereditary. The state con-
tains 7618 square miles of territory, and
1,818,539 inhabitants, of which two thirds
are Protestants.
The reigning sovereign is Charles I.,
Frederick Alexander, born in Stuttgart
the 6th of March, 1823. He succeeded his
father, William I., June 25th. 1864. He
married the queen, Olga Nicolaievna (liorn
llth September. 1S22). daughter of Nich-
olas, emperor of Russia, the loth of Julv,
1846.
Stuttgart, the capital and chief citv of the
STVTTQART.
[THE KMI'IRK OF GKRMAXY.]
STCTTGABT.
kingdom of Wurtemberg, is situated a short !
distance to the west ot'tlie Nt-ckar, and sur-
rounded by hills covered to their summits
with vine-yards and orchards. It contain* a
population of 117.303. The principal hotel,
and one of the best in Germany, is Ili'<hl
Marqunrdt. The city owes its importance
to the residence of the court and foreign
ministers. The surrounding country is very
lovely. Although a place of great autiq-
uitv, atti-.-ted by an ancient castle which
existed here in the llth century, a large
part of the town is of recent origin, having
been Imilt since Napoleon raised Wiirtein-
berg from a dukedom to a kingdom. The
chief | leculiaritiesof Stuttgart arecleanliness
and good order. It consists of one principal
street, a Magnificent palace, and some very
extensive public buildings. The Ntw Pa!-
. very imposing edilice. It is said to
contain as many rooms as there are days in
the year. Immediately above the grand
entrance, on the roof, is an enormous gilt
crown, giving the building rather a singu-
lar appearance. The palace,- with the ex-
ception of the private apartments, may be
seen every day by ticket, which can be
procured from the inspector. A fee of a
florin is expected. There are some very
fine pictures, and some statuary by Thor-
waldsen. It has one great advantage, be-
ing situated in Iwth town and country ;
opening, on one side, into a line park which
leads to the open country, and. on the other,
into a spacious square in the very heart of
the city. In the same square with the
New Palace stands the Old Palace. In the
court-yard is an equestrian statue of Count
Everard. who was promoted to the dignity
of duke by the Emperor Maximilian in the
15th century. It is in this court that you
procure from the Intendant-General tickets
to visit Rosenstein and Wilhelmina. The
theatre also stands in this square. It \ a
very indifferent building. Stuttgart has
been distinguished as the birthplace or
ace of some of the most eminent
German literati and artists, such as Schiller,
who wrote his ' Robbers" hero. Dannecker,
Menzel, and Baron von Cotta, the famous
publisher. Printing, bookbinding, weav-
ing, cotton and woolen goods, and the manu-
facture of musical, optical, and mathemat-
ical instruments, die the principal branches
of manufacturing industry.
The public library should be visited ; it
contains over 300,000 volumes, 3(500 MSS. ;
it has one of the tincst collections of Bibles
in Germany, printed in over eighty different
languages. In the same street (the Neck-
arstrasse) there is a Mnoum ./' Natural
History ; open every day from 11 to 12 and
2 to 3. The cabinet of medals (19,000) com-
municates with the library.
.In the Schl ,s.--pl :tz stands the "Com-
memorative Column," erected in 1841, on.
the occasion of the 25th anniversary of the
reign of King William : " To the m'>st faith-
ful ft i nd of t/ie peop'e, William the icetl-
\ beloved."
The Museum of Fine Arts has of late
years rapidly increased in interest, and a
day may now be well spent here. It con-
tains casts of the most celebrated works
of ancient and modern sculpture, among
which are casts of all the works of Thor-
waldsen, presented by himself in 1844. It
is open to the public from 11 to 1 and 2 to 4
on Sundays ; Monday. Wednesday, and
Friday from 10 to 12 and 2 to 4 ; the other
clays at the same hours ; fee, 24 kr. The
picture-gallery is open on Sundays. Wednes-
days, and Fridays free. It contains some
paintings of Murillo, Rubens, Guido, Paul
Veronese, Rembrandt, Velasquez, Titian,
Zurbaran, Tintoretto, and others equally
celebrated.
On the Konigsstrasse, which is the hand-
somest street, opposite the Schlossplatz,
stands the Kdnig*ban, finished in 1860.
The ground floor contains the Exchange
open from 2 to 3, a splendid cafe, and a
handsome arcade, near which is the palace
of the dowager queen, the Ministry rf t'o -
dgn Affair,*, and a splendid Ha
There is also a fine new Post-office.
The Museum is the property of a club,
containing reading-room, restaurant, etc.
Introduction by members.
The Lierierk ille is the property of a vocal
association. Large concerts are often given
here. A tine garden is attached. Opposite
to this is the Carltschnle, an institution of
high reputation. It was here that Schiller
received his elementary education.
The king's stables should most certain-
ly be vi.-iteu : hi.* stud of Arabian horses
is the finest in Germany. A fee of 'J4 kr.
is expected.
One of the most interesting visits the
traveler can make, and one he will never
forget, is that to the king's Grecian villa
665
CANXSTADT.
[THE EMPIRE OF GERMAN!.]
CANNSTADT.
of Rosensteln. It is absolutely necessary
to procure a ticket to gain admittance :
this may be done at the Hotel Marquardt.
The villa is situated at the extremity of
the Palace Gardens, and is reached by a
beautiful avenue, shaded with trees, two
miles in extent (notice the two marble
horses, by Hofer, on your way). The
view from this villa is one of the most
lovely in Germany, and the different rooms
are lilled with paintings and sculpture of
the rarest excellence. The views of the
principal places in Spain, Italy, and the
Hoi}' Land are most correct, and are de-
cidedly interesting to travelers who have
visited those countries. A fee of 30 kr. is
expected, or one florin for a party. A
short distance from Rosenstein the king
has erected a lovely Moorish building,
called Wilhelmina, which can be visited at
the same time. The interior is perfectly
beautiful.
About two and a half miles from Stutt-
gart, reached by railway or American
tramway, is the favorite resort of the citi-
zens,
Cannstadt, noted for its saline and other
springs. Hotels, Hermann, Bellevue, and
Cannstadt. Endeavor to be in Cannstadt
about the 28th of September, at which time
the Volksfest takes place. This is the day
after the king's birthday, on which occa-
sion he distributes prizes to the successful
breeders of horses and cattle, in the pres-
ence of the different members of the royal
family. All the surrounding country
turns out to do honor to the day. After
the prizes are distributed the horse-racing
takes place on the course adjoining the
fair ground. The performances are most
exciting and very amusing.
The baths of the River Neckar are very
good and cheap only 25 pfennigs, with
linen. Those of Strudel, adjoining the
theatre (15 kreutzers), are also very fine.
After the morning's bath the bathers as-
semble at the Kursaal, behind which are
some very beautiful walks. Observe the
painted notices stuck up requesting friends
or acquaintances not to take off their hats :
" Man bittet slth nic/tt durch IIut-Abnthmen
za griissen." The custom of continually
taking off your hat, not only to a friend or
acquaintance, but, if walking with a friend,
to doff it to his friend or acquaintance, al-
though you may never have seen him be-
" 6C6
fore, is decidedly tiresome; consequently,
for the convenience of promenaders, who
are continually meeting one another dur-
ing their walks, the notice informs them
that they are expected to dispense with the
custom so universal in Germany. Ascend
the height of the Sulzerain, near which
three of the principal springs arise, and get
a glorious view of the surrounding country.
The mineral springs in and around the
town are very numerous, being over forty
in number : they are nearly all cold one
alone is tepid. The railway passes by them :
only 8 minutes from Stuttgart.
Excursions should also be made to the
Solitude (an abandoned castle, or hunting-
lodge, belonging to the king, built about
one hundred years ago). It was formerly
the celebrated Carlsschule. The grounds
command an extensive view. Schiller's
father was inspector of the gardens here.
In the vicinity there is a deer park and
bears' den. The deer are fed at 11 A.M.,
and the wild boars at 6 P.M. Cards of
admission in office of the Royal Chasse at
the Academy in Stuttgart. JJohenlicim,
another chateau, built by the Duke Charles
in 1768, six miles from Stuttgart, should
also be visited. Carriages may be procured
at the Hotel Marquardt to make these dif-
ferent excursions.
Stuttgart to Pans. Time, 16 h. 45 m. ;
fare, first class, 66 marks 80 pf. ; second
class, 49 marks.
Stuttgart to Friedrichshafen (on Lake
Constance). Time, 5 h. 58 m. ; fare, first
class, 15 marks 90 pf. ; second class, 9
marks.
Stuttgart to Munich. Time, 5 h. 50 m. ;
fare, first class, 22 marks 5 pf. ; second
class, 15 marks 50 pf.
From Stuttgart to JBruchsal Junction.
Time, 2 h. 3 m. ; fare, 6 marks 35 pf. For
description of Route from Bruchsal, see
Route No. 184.
ROUTE No. 174.
Mim'ch to Frankfort, via Gunzenhau-
sen, A >ifp ich, and Wuriburg. Time, 9 h.
INOOLSTAUT.
[THE EMPIRE OF GERMANY.]
HEILBRONN.
41 m. ; faro, first class. 37 marks 10 pf. ; sec-
ond class, 26 marks 15 pf. There i- vt-ry
little to interest the traveler in this route.
I'.-is-ing several unimportant stations,
we reach the fortress ami town of
Inyolttadt.Hote], 1,'oldat r.ldl r. Pop-
ulation, 13,000. This ancient town is situ-
ated on the Danube, and contains nothing
of importance. Its Cathedral was built in
the; loth century, and contains the monu-
ments of Tilly and Mercy ; also of the
famous Dr. Eck, the adversary of Luther.
Ingolstadt was the first place in Ger-
many where a Jesuit college was founded.
Gustavus Adolphus vainly besieged it in
1)!3'J, while Tilly was lying mortally wound-
ed within its walls. It was captured by the
French under Moreau, after a three months'
siege, in 1800. Its fortifications were con-
siderably augmented in 1827.
Communicating on the Danube with
Baiiabon,
Eickstadt (Hotel, Bayrischer Hf) con-
tains 7600 inhabitants, and is finely situ-
ated in the valley of the Altmuhl. It is
the chief town of a small principality which
was bestowed on Prince Eugene Beauhar-
nais, duke of Leuchtenberg, in 1817, and
was the residence of the duke, his son, up
to 1854, whose successors have, by an
imperial Russian ukase, become imperial
princes and princesses. It has bean the
seat of a bishop since 740, when it was
founded by St. Willibald.
The Cathedral was founded in 1042, and
is an interesting edifice. Its choir dates
from 1351. The church of St. Walpurgi*
contains the tomb of that saint, who was its
founder. On the first of May. which is the
saint's fete-day, thousands of pilgrims re-
pair to his shrine.
On the height above the town stand the
ruins of the castle of \YVlibaldsbtirg.
The next station is Solnhofen, where
nearly all the lithographic stones used in
the world are quarried. None others have
been found so good, and the entire village
is occupied in quarrying them and convey-
ing them to the railway ami Danube.
-ing the station and junction where
lines cross running to Stuttgart and Nu-
remberg. we arrive at
Anxp-icfi, a town of 12.750 inhabitants.
Hotel, Xtern. It was formerly the capital
and residence of the margraves of Anspaeb,
and later of the princes of Bayreuth. They
were connected with the younger branch
of the imperial house of Germany, to whom
the last of his line sold the property. It was
acquired by Bavaria in 1806.
About two hours by carriage or omnibus
is the town of
//eilbronn. which contains a most inter-
esting church, founded in 1150, and restored
in 1860. It possesses some fine monuments
of the margraves of Brandenburg.
At Steinach travelers wishing to visit
the old and interesting town of Rothenburg
may do so by diligence, which leaves three
times per day. Time, two hours. It was
formerly a free city of the empire. Its wall
and ramparts are still well preserved, and
the architecture of its churches, Kathhaus,
and houses most interesting. Its principal
church is St. James's, founded in the 14 th
century ; its altar and stained-gHss win-
dows are very fine.
\\'iirzburg contains a population of 45,000.
Hotel, Crown Prince of Bavaria, an admira-
bly managed house, situated in front of the
Kind's Palace. Wurzburg is situated on
the Main, and is connected with its suburb,
.\fninriertel, by a stone bridge adorned with
saints ; it is finely built, with wide streets,
and contains many quaint old houses. The
Royal Palace, built after the plan of Yer-
seilles, has many handsome apartments,
including a chapel decorated in the Louis
XIV. style, 312 rooms, and 25 kitchens;
and, inside and outside, few royal palaces in
any country can compare with it. Three
days in the week there is military music in
front of the palace; the gardens in the rear
are quite beautiful.
The Cathedral, in the Domstrasse, which
dates from the 12th century, contains mon-
uments of the Prince Bishops. The Xeu-
munsttr Church, which dates from the 10th
century, contains in the crypt the remains
of St. Kilian and his companions. Among
other monuments is that of the trouba-
dour Walther von der Vogelweide, cele-
brated by Longfellow. There are thirteen
other churches, with nine others in the sub-
urb, including a Jewish synagogue. The
city also contains numerous schools, hos-
pitals, and other charitable and scientific
institutions. Its University was founded
in l.")S2, and is celebrated as a medical
school. A visit should be made to the
celebrated CitmM of Maritnberg, which is
open to the public free.
667
KAUFBECERN.
[THE EMPIRE OF GERMANY.]
RAVENSBURC*
ROUTE No. 175.
Lindau to Augsburg and Wiirzlury, via
Nordlingen and Mergentheim. Time from
Lindau to Augsburg, 5 h. ; fare, 18 marks 55
pf. ; to Wiirzburg, tt'aGunzenhausen,!! h.
5m.; fare,40mks.; from Augsburg to \Vurz-
burg, 5 h. 35 m. ; fare, first class, 111 inks. 30 pf.
( KOUTE No. 176.
Munich to Linlau (on Lake Constance,
the most direct route to Switzerland).
Time, 5 h. 20 m. ; fare, first class, 20 marks
15 pf. ; second class, 14 marks 20 pf.
At the station BuMoe .the line unites
with that from Augsburg.
Kavfbtuem, an old but unimportant
town. Hotel, Sonne. Passing through a
narrow gorge, on the heights above are
seen the ruins of the castle of Wagegg, and
crossing the river f.'ler we arrive at
Kempten, finely situated on the Iller,
containing 11,000 inhabitants. Hotel,
Kron a . This old imperial town was the
Capodunum of the Romans. It was at one
time the residence of the powerful Prince
Abbots of Kempten, who formerly held a
court here in a castle in the upper town,
now used by the authorities. Close to the
castle is a fine church, dating from the 18th
century.
Immenstadt (Hotels, Kreuz and ffirscK),
a handsome town situated in a pretty val-
ley surrounded by high mountains, which,
separate Bavaria from the Tyrol. The
Griinten, 5(>32 feet above the level of the
sea, is celebrated for its beautiful pano-
rama; there is a hotel at the top. It is
called the Bavarian Rigi. Two omnibuses
leave daily for Xonthofen, situated up the
valley about one hour from Immenstadt,
which is the best point to make the ascent.
The railway is carried to the banks of
the lake.
Linlau. Ih'itel de Baviere, a large, first-
class house in every respect, opposite the
steamboat landing, with a splendid view of
the lake and mountains, and offering every
inducement for a prolonged stay. This
a nail and strongly fortified town, belong-
ing to the kingdom of Bavaria, and of con-
piderable importance during the Middle
Ages, is very beautifully situated on two
small islands in Lake Constance, and is
connected with the shore by long wooden
bridges. On your right as you enter the
668
harbor an immense Bavarian lion, sitting
on his hind-legs, greets you with any tiling
but a welcoming smile. On the opposite
side of the entrance there is a high watch-
tower and light-house. On the port there
is a monument to Maximilian II., erected
in 1856, after the model of Holbig: it rests
on a pedestal the sides of which are orna-
mented with the coats of arms of different
cities, and figures representing Navigation,
Industry, Commerce, and the Arts. The
remnants of an old tower called the //'-
d'nthiirm stand at the end of the old bridge.
It is supposed to be of Roman origin. An
excursion should be made along the shore
of the lake to iSchachenbad, in half an hour,
where there is a pleasant tea-garden.
There is a charming view of the lake to
be obtained here. Fifteen minutes farther
there is an establishment called Lindenkof,
with a fine greenhouse and park. Tues-
day and Friday free ; other days 30 kr. fee.
Steamers in correspondence with trains
sail several times each day for Constance,
Bregenz, Romanshorn, and liorschach.
Trains several times each day to Munich,
Augsburg, and Dim.
ROUTE No. 177.
Ulm to Friedrichshafen. Time, 3 h. 10
m. ; fare, first class, 8 marks 60 pf. ; second
class, 5 marks 80 pf.
U/m, described in Route No. 173.
Biberach, formerly a free imperial city,
at present a small town surrounded by
walls and towers, containing 7100 inhabit-
ants. Hotel, Deutscher Kai*er. The place
is now noted for the manufacture of chil-
dren's toys. The poet Wieland was born
in the adjoining village of Obcrholzheim.
Niederbiegen, to the left of which notice
the old abbey of \\'dn.rjdrt-n, which for-
merly belonged to the Benedictine monks,
and was noted at one time for possessing
some of the Saviour's blood. The abbey
is now an orphan asylum. The church
contains the tomb of the Guelphs, who
were its founders. It was finely restored
by the orders of the King of Hanover in
1859, from Klenze's design. The organ
was built by Gdbler. Frequent pilgrim-
ages are made to this church.
Ravensburg contains 8500 inhabitants.
Hotel, Pust. This old town was formerly
FRIEDRICHSHAFEN. [THE EMPIKE OF GERMANY.]
a free imperial city. It is surrounded by
vine-covered hills, and is encompassed l>y
numerous old towers of different shapes.
There is an old (iothic church, recently
restored. From Vtlhburg, a hill some 1625
feet high, fifteen minutes from the town.
there is a magnificent view over Lake Con-
stance. Switzerland, and the Alps. About
five miles east of the town stands the Cas-
tle of Walburrj. the stronghold of the
M'ruchsess of \Valburg," an ancient fam-
ily who held the hereditary title of Mint re
d'hiitel of the empire.
ilrich'-htifen, a town of 2900 inhabit-
ants, is situated on Lake Constance. Ho-
tel and Pension, Bellevue, a fine house over-
looking the lake, and near the steamboat
landing and railway station. Garden, car-
. etc. Managed liy the proprietor,
Mr. H. Ueeg. This is a commercial town
of recent origin, and was founded by Fred-
erick of Wurtemberg; it is the principal
port on the lake for German goods shipped
to Switzerland and Italy. The King of
Wiirtemberg has a palace in the vicinity,
from the garden of which are numerous
lovely views. The town is much resorted
to in the summer for bathing in the lake.
Steamers leave four or five times each
day for different points on the lake. To
Romanshorn, opposite, in one hour.
TUBINGEN.
ROUTE No. 179.
ROUTE No. 178.
Ulm to Schuffhaitsen, ria Immendingen.
Time, * h. 37 m. ; fare, 19 marks 30 pf.
/linrjen Junction is first reached (on
Rontc 17l>), in 1 h. 39 m. ; fare, 5 marks ;
whence by Route 179 to Schaffhausen in 5
h. 56 m. ; fare, 15 marks 95 pf.
Schaffhausen, see Route 23, Vol. III.
Stuttgart to XcJwfihnusen, ria Tubingen
and Immendinyen. Time, 6 h. 37 m. ; fare,
first class, 18 marks 80 pf. ; second class,
12 marks 50 pf.
jEsstinyen, situated on the Neckar, con-
tains 14,100 inhabitants. Hotel, Krone.
Tl i- was at one time one of the most im-
portant of the free imperial cities. It was
founded in 1216 by the Emperor Frederick
II., and is still partly surrounded by
walls.
The principal church is the Liebfrauen-
kirche, finished about the commencement of
the 16th century. It is constructed in the
purest Gothic style. It was restored in
1862. It contains some fine stained-glass
windows and handsome sculptures. The
churches of St. Paul and St. Dems are also
well deserving a visit. From the old im-
perii:! castle of Pvrfried there is a fine
view. Esslingen carries on considerable
trade in sparkling wines and machinerj'.
At Pishing: n, situated at the confluence
of the Fits and AVc>\ the route leaves the
line to Ulm and continues in a southern
direction to
Reutlingen. Hotels, Oclis and Kronprinz.
This town contains 14,300 inhabitants, is
situated on the River Eehnz, and was for-
merly a free imperial city. The water
from the town is conducted through the
streets.
The Ifari nl-irch", which is said to be the
finest church in Wiirtemberg, was found-
ed in the 13th century, and has recently
been restored. The baptismal font is very
beautiful, and the sculpture is most admi-
rably executed. The Holy Sepulchre is a
work of rare excellence.
Near the station there is a bronze statue
by Keitz, erected to the memory of the po-
litical economist Li.<t.
Tubingen, finely situated on the Neckar.
Hotels, Traube and Prii.z Carl. It is prin-
cipally noted as the seat of a University,
dating from 1477, founded by the Duke
Eherhard. Melanchthon was at one time
a lecturer here.
The principal church is the Stiftikirckf,
which contains numerous monuments ;
among others that of Duke Eberhard. The
stained-glass windows are very fine. The
University contains a line collection of fos-
sils. A splendid view may be obtained
"G69
ROTTENBURG.
[THE EMPIRE OF GERMANY.]
from the old Schloss which commands the
town.
About one hour's distance from Tubin-
gen is the line old monastery of hi-l-n1i>i-
sen, founded in 1183. It is considered one
of the finest Gothic structures in the coun-
try.
Rottenburg, an old town containing 6200
inhabitants; admirably situated on the
banks of the Neckar. Hotel, Gollener
Hirsch. It is connected with its suburb
Ehingen by a bridge. The town is the seat
of a Catholic bishop. The church of St.
Martin is the principal building. The
Bischofshof contains a collection of Roman
antiquities.
Roll well contains 5200 inhabitants. It
is still surrounded by walls and towers.
It was a free city of the empire up to 1802.
The handsome church of the Holy Cross,
lately restored, dates from the 12th cen-
tury.
Tuttlinyen, a. town of 7200 inhabitants,
was destroyed by fire in 1803. Hotel,
Post. Commanding the town are the ruins
of the castle of llornburg.
Immendingen, whence Schaffhausen is
reached in 1 h. 26 m.
Schaffhausen. See Index.
ROUTE No. 180.
Stuttgart to Heidelberg, via Heilbronn.
Time, 5 h. 38 m. ; fare, first class, 10 marks;
second class, 6 marks.
The express route to Heidelberg is via
Bruchsal Junction in 3 h. 3 m. ; fare, 10
marks 30 pf. and 7 marks 25 pf.
Bietiykeim junction; the line to Bruch-
sal here turns to the left.
Heilbronn, beautifully situated on both
banks of the Neckar. Eisenbahn Hotel, at
the station. Up to the commencement of
the present century it retained its privi-
leges as a free city of the empire. It now
contains 19,000 inhabitants, and is one of
the most important commercial towns in
"VVurtemberg. A handsome promenade
has taken the place of the former ramparts,
which separate the old town from its sub-
urbs.
The principal building is the church of
St. Kilian, built in the old German style,
and founded in the 13th century. The
670
STRASBCKG.
altar-piece is a fine example of painting
and sculpture combined. It represents
the Birth of Christ with the Resurrection
and the Death of the Virgin. There are
several fine monuments in the church. In
the square tower is a massive bell, which
was cast in 1479 ; it tolls every day at
noon. In the vicinity of the church is the
"Holy Spring," to which the town owes
its origin.
In the church of St. Xichotat, in 1525,
the first Protestant service was performed.
The Rathhuus dates from the middle of the
16th century.
In a high square tower on the banks of
the Neckar, called Gutzens Thurm, Goethe
represents the celebrated G<">tz ni Jl< ///<//-
iagen, the knight of the "iron hand," to
have died.
Steamers daily to Heidelberg on the
Neckar in 7 hours.
Trains several times daily from Heil-
bronn to Hall in 2 hours. There are some
salt-mines here.
Several unimportant stations are passed,
then Heidelberg ; for description, see Route
No. 184.
ROUTE No. 181.
Strasburg to Basle and Constance, via
Freiburg. Time, 3 h. 38 m. ; fare, 11 marks
35 pf.
Strasburg to Bask, via Muhlhausen (ex-
press, Route 183). Time, 2 h. 59 m. ; fare,
13 marks 10 pf.
Basle to Constance, via Schaffhausen and
Singen. Time, 4 h. 38 m. ; fare, 14 fr. 50 c.
Strasburg (formerly the chief city in
the old department Du bus Rhin, France ;
since its capture by Germany during the
last war the principal city of the Ger-
man provinces of Alsace and Lorraine ; the
residence of the commandant-general of the
15th army corps of German}-) contains 104,-
501 inhabitants. Principal hotels, and the
three best in the cit}-, are the National, the
Pa>~is, and the cT Angleterre. The National
is an elegant modern house, on the square
opposite the station. Strasburg, although
of late belonging to France, is essentially a
German town, both in appearance and in
the language and costume of the lower or-
ders, few of whom speak French, although
until lately it was taught in all the public
schools. It is situated about 1J miles from
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(1 - Book
STRASBURG.
[THE EMPIRE OF GERMANY.]
STRASDURG.
the Rhine, which is crossed here by a
bridge of bouts. It was licsicjrc.il ami tak-
en by Louis XIV. in I<M, since which
time it belonged to the French up to 1*71,
when it was annexed to Ger.nany. It is
considered one of the r-trnii^st fortresses
in Europe, and opposed a desperate resist-
ance to the German troops. It was bom-
barded from the 18th of August until the
'.'Ttli of September, when it surrendered.
In addition to its fortifications, there are
sluices constructed by Vauban, which,
when opened, will flood the country for
miles around. The arsenal, when in pos-
session of the French, contained 1000 pieces
of cannon, and anus far 150,000 men. The
piles of Strasburg are closed at 10 o'clock
in summer and 8 o'clock in winter, but
travelers are generally admitted at all
times.
The principal object of interest, and the
one to which travelers first resort after
tlieir arrival, is the Ctithtdml, or ,!//*>/</.
This masterpiece of architecture is the
work of Erwin of Steinbacli, and continued
after his death by his son and daughter
Sabina : it was begun in 1277, and finish-
ed in 1601; John Hultz. of Cologne, com-
pleted the work. Its spire is remarkable
for being the highest in tin- n-nrlil, standing
468 feet above the level of the cathedral
floor : it is 25 feet higher than the Pyramid
of Cheops at Cairo, although the pyramid
must have been about the same height,
but has been worn away by the action of
the elements, the surface of its top being
now about 15 feet in diameter. The view
from the top of the spire is most grand :
the windings of the Rhine, the Vosges
Mountains of France, and the Black For-
est of Germany the scene of so many his-
torical romances. A bird's-eye view of
the whole panorama will well reward the
adventurous sight-seer adventurous, be-
cause the ascent can not be made without
some (Linger, and requires considerable
nerve and steadiness of head. The stone-
work is so very open that, in case of a sud-
ilfii attack of giddiness or the slipping of
the foot, the body might pass through ;
there have been several such cases. Two
thirds of the way up there is a watchman's
station, where persons live to keep a look-
out for lires ; here the visitor's register is
kept, and you can purchase prints, plans,
and books descriptive of the cathedral.
The interior is rich in stained glass, but
the most remarkable object of interest it
contains is its world-renowned clock, in-
vented three hundred years ago. It would
require a volume to describe it. When
you visit it, be particular to be present at
12 o'clock prtdteljh as that is the only time
during the twelve hours when the cock
crows, and all the images, puppets, etc.,
are set in motion. The old Episcopal Pal-
J ace has been transformed into the 1'iiinr-
sity, on the second floor of which a new li-
I brary is rapidly being formed.
The church of tit. Thomas should be vis-
ited for the purpose of examining the mon-
ument of Marshal Saxe by Pigalle, erected
to the memory of that hero by his sover-
eign, Louis XV. It is considered one of
the finest efforts of the chisel. This church
also contains two bodies in gla.-s cases,
said to be those of the Count of Nassau and
his daughter; the flesh and clothes have
been preserved in their present state for
over 400 years. The Public Library, which
formerly contained over 100,000 volumes,
was rich in its collection of early efforts in
the art of printing, among which were Me-
telin's Bible, printed in 14(>G, and Cicero,
printed by Fust in 14G5. This building
was destroyed by the Prussian bombs dur-
ing the late siege. Gutenberg, to whom
a statue by David has been erected on
Place Gutenberg, made his first attempt
at printing here in 1435. On the site of
the old Prefecture, in the middle of the
14th century. 2<)00 Jews were burned to
death, accused of having poisoned the fount-
ains and wells, which gave rise to the
plague which at that time desolated the city.
The J'lace ttrnglie, constructed by Ma-
r6chal Broglie in 1740, is the most animated
portion of the town. It contains the new
theatre and the best cafes. A military
band plays here twice a week in the even-
ings. The old Prefecture is in front of tho
theatre ; near it is the bronze statue erect-
ed to the Marquis de Lezay-Marnesia, a
former prefect.
On l'l< tee Kleber stands a bronze statue
of that famous general, who was born hero
in 17.~>.",, and assassinated in 1800 by a Turk
at ( 'aim. The statue is by Grass.
Strusburg is noted for the celebrated
/'lit,'* defois gras, made from the livers of
geese. They are fed in such a manner
that the liver grows to an unnatural size ;
671
STRASBCKG.
it often weighs three pounds when the
goose is killed.
The memorable siege of Strasburg by
the Prussians, and its heroic resistance,
only equaled by that of Paris, well deserve
a few lines.
On the 8th of August a German officer
appeared with a white flag before the city,
and summoned the commandant, General
Uhrich, to surrender, threatening a bom-
bardment in case of refusal. This request
was peremptorily denied, notwithstanding
that the town was by no means in a state
of defense, most of the garrison having
been withdrawn from the town by Mar-
shal McMahon. On the 19th of August
the bombardment commenced, from which
time it continued almost without interrup-
tion until the surrender of the city on the
28th of September, 1870. Among the prin-
cipal buildings destroyed were the Bank
of France, the Public Library, the Museum
of Painting, the Theatre, the Prefecture,
the Arsenal, the Palace of Justice, several
churches, and part of the roof and the or-
gan of the Cathedral. Whole streets were
devastated, and the citadel was literally a
mass of ruins.
On the llth of September, a delegation
sent by the Swiss, offering an asylum to
the women and children of Strasburg, en-
tered the city, and on the 15th 500 persons,
and on the 17th 568 persons old men,
women, and children passed the Prussian
lines on their way to Switzerland, where
every comfort was afforded 1 them.
[THE EMPIRE OF GERMANY.]
VlLLINGEN.
There are one or two excursions in the
vicinity of Strasburg, viz., that to Mount
Saint Odile, where is situated the celebrated
convent of the same name ; and that to
Savernf, a town of 6500 inhabitants, where
there is a handsome castle. The town is
commanded by the ruins of the old fortress
of Greifenstfin.
672
Kehl stands opposite Strasburg on the
other side of the Rhine. It was from this
point that Strasburg was bombarded dur-
ing the French war. The batteries were
placed in such a manner that they were
out of sight of the French, communication
being carried on by telegraph from an of-
ficer on a distant steeple to the forces in
the trenches.
Kehl suffered much during the last war,
but it was used to it, as it has been bom-
barded and razed a dozen times by French
armies when crossing the Rhine. It now
contains some 2200 inhabitants.
At ApjH/tu-tier junction carriages are
changed when going to Basle; distance
45 minutes from Strasburg. On the left
notice the old castle of Stanfenberg, which
dates from the llth century.
Offenbury junction. Hotel, Fortuna.
This town is finely situated at the entrance
to the valley of Kinzig, in the Grand-Duchy
of Baden. It contains 5300 inhabitants.
There is a statue erected here to Sir Fran-
cis Drake, the celebrated English admiral,
who introduced the potato into Europe
from Santa Fe, Mexico.
\_0jfenburg to Constance, via Triberg, Vil-
lingen, Immending, and Singen, in 4 h. 55 m.
(direct route and express) ; fare, 14 m. 40 pf. ;
distance, 180 kil.
Passing Ortenberg, with the Gothic chateau
of the Russian Baron Berkholz ; Ilausach,
with the ruined castle of Fiirstenberg,
whence to Wolfach'm 25 m.; through beau-
tiful scenerj', especially on the right to Horn-
berg, situated on a.height surmounted by an
old donjon keep, to
Triberg. This is a much -frequented sum-
mer spot, and the centre of the clock indus-
try. The falls, in seven stages, over a gran-
ite rock 550 feet high, are among the finest
in Germany. The principal hotel is the
Foret Noire, in a very fine situation near
i the falls. To Constance, 3 h. 20 m. ; to Of-
fmburg, 1 h. 15 m. Passing Villingen (COOO
inhabitants), Neudingen, Geisengen, and
Immeiiding, whence are seen the exten-
sive ruins of llochlurg castle, and whence a
branch line leads to Stuttgart, we pass Hat-
tingen, Emmcn, Welschingen, and Muhlhuu-
sen, and arrive at
Xlnije.i ; to Constance, 50 m. ; 2 marks;
30 kil. ; to Basle, 4 h. 5 m. ; 10 marks,
20 pf. ; 115 kil.
Constance, see below.]
[THE EMPIRE OF GERMANY.]
CONSTANCE.
Before arriving at Freiburg the station
Denzlinfjtn is passed, near which is the town
of It Hldkirch, with its ruins of the castle of
Ktistrrlterg close by. As the train arrives
at Freiburg, the ruined castle of the counts
of Ziihringetij founders of the Grand-Duchy
of Ruli'ii. is |i
Freibury (/{tidi.n) contains 24,600 inhab-
itants. The town is prettily situated on
the outskirts of the Black Forest. The
best hotel, and the only good one, opposite
the railway station, is the Hotel Sommer
Ziihringerhof. It has been recently much
enlarged, contains reading, billiard, and
bath rooms, and possesses a large garden ;
the whole is under the admirable manage-
ment of the proprietors, the Messrs. Sommer.
The principal object of attraction in Frei-
burg is the Maltster, or Cdt/u-ilnil, univer-
sally admired for its beautiful proportions
and the chasteness of its decorations. It
was commenced in 1122, and finished in
1513.
The western tower, about the only one
ever finished in Germany, is 394 feet high.
It is surmounted by a spire of most exqui-
site work and proportions. Tha principal
entrance is decorated with sculpture of
great beauty and richness. Its interior
dimensions are: length, 338 feet; breadth,
100 feet; and height 91 feet. The church
can lie seen from 10.30 A.M. to 7 P.M. ; 18
kr. fee to the custodian.
The interior contains a monument of
Berthold V., the last duke of Zahringen,
erected 1228 ; a beautifully carved pulpit ;
and a remarkable work, consisting of thir-
teen carved figures, representing the Last
Supper. The stained - glass windows are
very beautiful.
Notice the painting over the high-altar
by (,'riiit. The ("niversity chapel contains
two pictures by llnliidii.
The University contains 300 students,
mostly natives of Baden. There is an An,-
atomicul Museum attached to the Univer-
sity.
In front of the University stands a mon-
ument erected to the memory of a Fran-
ciscan friar, Bertkold ScittOQn, who, it is
asserted, first invented gunpowder here in
1340.
There are three handsome fountains in
the Kaiserstrasse : one adorned with statues
of knights and saints, another erected in
1807 in honor of the Grand-Duke Charles
Frederick, and the third with a statue of
Archduke Albert, founder of the Superior
School. This last is of recent construc-
tion.
The Kauf haus, near the Cathedral, is a
curious old Gothic building.
[A branch railway leads to the old im-
portant fortress of A //-/!/< /.<<!<//, situated on
a high rock on the banks of the Rhine, and
at one time the key of German}' in the west.
At Muhlhtim station there is a diligence
four times each day to the Baths of Hd<l< n-
tftiler. These baths were known to the
Romans, and those erected by them were
discovered in 1748 ; they consist of swim-
ming-bath, vapor-bath, etc., in all twelve
baths, and are regarded as the most perfect
west of Rome. There is a fine Kur.iaal,
with a small park. The excursions are
numerous in the vicinity, among which is
the ascent of the Blawn, which can be
made in two hours from Badenweiler.
There is a lovely view of the district from
Sopkienruhc, distance twenty minutes from
the baths.]
Passing Schliengen station, where the
Archduke Charles was defeated by the
French under Morcau in 179(j, we arrive at
Basle. For description, see Index, Vol.
III.
From Basle the train passes through
Swiss territory nearly to Constance. Time,
4 h. 38 m. ; fare, first class, 14 fr. 50 c. ;
second class, 9 fr. 65 c.
Constance is a very ancient city, but its
population has become considerably re-
duced. It now contains 10,250 inhab-
itants. Although situated on the Swiss
side of the lake, it belongs to the Duchy
of Baden, having been ceded by Austria in
1805. Hold Constanzc.rhof,
673
CONSTANCE.
[THE EMPIRE OF GERMANY.]
CONSTANCE.
The Cathedral, or Munster, of Constance
is -A fine Gothic structure, founded in 1048;
was rebuilt at the commencement of the
16th century. It was in this cathedral
that John Huss was condemned. Robert
Hallam, bishop of Salisbury, president of
the English delegation which condemned
him to be burned, is buried in front of the
high-altar The place is pointed out by a
brass plate where II uss stood when receiv-
ing the sentence. Notice the bas-reliefs
on the doors of the principal entrance.
There are twenty compartments, repre-
senting scenes in the life of the Savior.
Make the ascent of the tower : the view is
magnificent. Examine the relics in the
sacristy.
The'anciont convent of the Dominicans,
situated on a small island connected with
the town by a bridge, is noted as the place
of confinement of Huss : it is now used as
a store-house. The SaJle de la Douane,
erected in 1388, contains numerous Roman,
Germanic, and Huss relics ; fee 1 fr. This
building is particularly interesting from
being the place of meeting of the famous
Council of Constance, the object of which
was to vindicate the authority of general
councils, to which the Roman pontiff was
declared to be amenable. The Council
first proceeded to dispose of three popes
John XXII., Gregory II., and Benedict X.
They then elected Startin V., settling the
variances that had disturbed the Church
for forty years. A dark blot will, howev-
er, forever rest on the memory of the Coun-
cil for their treachery in arresting John
Huss and Jerome of Prague after the Pres-
ident of the Council, the Emperor Sigis-
mund, had promised to give the former
safe-conduct out of the reach of his ene-
mies. Huss was treacherously seized, con-
demned, and burned at the stake on the 6th
July, 1415, and Jerome on the 30th May
the following year. The works of Wycliffe
were condemned to be burned. The Coun-
674
oil consisted of over 400 of the greatest
magnates and scholars of the Continent, in-
cluding emperors, popes, cardinals, bish-
ops, and archbishops. The sittings con-
tinued four years, from 1414 to 1418. The
place where Huss suffered martyrdom, a
short distance from the city, is still point-
ed out; also the house in Paulsstrasse in
which he lodged, and which contains a
likeness of this celebrated theologian in re-
lief on the wall. In the old building, now
the Cafe Jiarbaro sa, the Emperor Fried-
rich concluded peace with the Lombard
cities in 1183.
Boats leave Constance for Friedrichs-
hafen. Time, 1 hour ; fare, 3 marks 8 kr.
To Romanshorn ; time, 1 hour. To Lin-
dau, 1 h. 30 m. (This is the most direct
route to Munich. Time, 4 hours. To
Rorschach, 2 h. 30 m.)
Lake Constance is the largest of the
German lakes, thirty-five miles long by
eight wide. At its greatest depth it is
nearly one thousand feet deep. The Rhine
enters it at the southwest, and issues from
it at the northwest. Its banks are noted
for their great fertility, abounding in vine-
yards, corn-fields, and orchards, with hand-
some villas and smiling villages.
An excursion should be made to the inl-
and of Meinau, four miles from Constance.
The house was once the property of the
knights of the Teutonic Ovder. Steamers
every few hours. Another excursion is
that to the island nf Reichenaii, noted for
its monastery, founded by Charlemagne,
some portions of which still exist.
Constance to Paris, via Bel fort. Time,
17 h. 12 nj. ; fare, first class, 63 marks 5 pf.
Constance, to Schaffkuusen. Time, 1 h.
27 m. ; fare, 4 marks.
ROUTE No. 182.
Strasburg to Cologne, via Forbach and
Mi-tz, Saarbntck, Treves, Hillesheim, and
Duren (excursion).
HAGENAU.
[THE EMPIRE OF GERMANY.]
WORTH.
From Strusburrj to Fofb<ich, time 5J- hrs. ; '
and from Forbach to ^fe/z, 1 Ii. 12 in.
ll,nj>i,'i'i (Hotel, P'St) contains ll,2. r >0
inhabitants. It is situated on the River
Mulrr, and was at one tune a free city of
the (iernian Empire, afterward one of the
principal French towns of the department
of tlio 15as Khin, and became again German
after the late French war. There are few
relics existing of its antiquity. Richard
Cceur de Lion was here confined l>y the Em-
peror Henry VI. The church of St. George
is the principal building ; it dates from the
12th century (42 minutes to Strasburg).
[A line of railway branches off to the
right to Mannheim, passing through the
towns of WuHuA*r$ and Xnittmlt.
\\'i-i.-i*riilmrij, an old walled town sit-
uated on the Lauter, formerly belonging
to the province of Alsace, but now an-
nexed to Germany. It contains 7000 in-
habitants. Hotel, EnyfJ.
About three miles southeast of this town
is
Geisberg, where one of the first battles
of the late Franco-German war took place,
August 4, INTO. Here the brave General
Douay was killed, after struggling for an
entire day, outnumbered ten to one De
Failly's division being 10,000, and that of
the crown - prince 100,000, two Prussian
and one Bavarian army corps. General
Douay's tomb is in the fyiedkofobmeteay,
near the hattle-lield. (The first fight took
place at Saarbruck, 30th of July, when
the French attacked that town and were
repulsed; the attack was renewed August
2, and the town taken.)
At Winden station there is a branch line
six miles to the, west. Here lies the old
town of Rergzabern, containing a fine old
castle. Hotel, Rossle. This is a good point
of departure for excursions in the Vosges. !
I.nnddu. This town is finely situated on
the Queich, and contains 7000 inhabitants
and :iOOO troops. Hotels. I 'faker If of And
svAHv/71.. It was fortified at a very early
late, besieged and taken seven times dur-
ing the Seven-years' \Var ; taken from
the German Empire by Louis XIV., and i
fortified by Vauban in 1688. It was cap-
tured by the Margrave Lewis of Baden in
170'J, but remained a French town from
the Peace of Rastadt, in 1714, to 1814.
An excursion should be made from
Landau to the ruins of the castle of Ma-
denburff, destroyed by the French in 1689 ;
the distance two and a half hours, and the
view one of the finest in the country.
A branch railway leads from Landau
to
Anniceiler (time, 40 minutes ; hotels, Ro-
ther Ochse and Tri'fels), a small town of 2700
inhabitants, mostly known as the nearest
point to the famous ruined cast'e ofTriffeJs,
where Richard Coeur dc Lion, king of En-
gland was confined by the Emperor Henry
VI. for two years, 1192-1294. Returning
from the Crusades, which he had undertaken
in conjunction with Philip Augustus, king
of France, and the Emperor Barbarossa,
he was thrown on the coast of Dalmatia,
and in traversing the territory of the Duke
of Austria, was seized by that enemy and
imprisoned in Diirenstein, near Krems.
He was afterwards sold by Duke Leopold
to the Emperor Henry "VI. for 30,000
marks, by whom he was brought in chains
before the Diet at Hagenau to answer the
charge of murder. Proving his innocence,
his chains were removed ; but his liberty
was only restored by the payment of
250,000 marks of silver to the emperor.
It is said that the minstrel Blondel dis-
covered here the place of the king's con-
finement.]
The line continues on through Xeustadt
and Worms to Mayence. See route from
Saarbruck to Mayence.
Passing through the forest of Hagenau
and several unimportant stations, that of
\\~i'>r1h is reached. This small village
of 1200 inhabitants is situated at the con-
fluence of the Sauer and Salzach. Hotel,
Clunil ft' Or. It is now principally noted
for the battle fought there on the (!th of
August between the large army of the
crown - prince, numbering 140,000 men,
augmented by another Bavarian corps and
the Wilrtemberg legion, and the retreating
division of General Donay (beaten Augu.-t
4) and the residue ofMardchal Mat-Main >n'<
corps, which, according to his report,
numbered 35,000 men, where the French
were again outnumbered four to one.
The tree under which MacMahon stood
during a portion of the fight is pointed
out, only half a mile from the town.
Nearly all the personal staff of MacMahon
were killed ; he himself had been in the
saddle fifteen hours ; and there was no am-
munition left after three o'clock.
075
FKOSCHWEILER.
[THE EMPIRE OF GERMANY.]
NEUKIRCHEN.
Reichshofen station is five miles from the
town of
Froschwei'er, the centre of MacMahon's
position during the battle of Worth. It
was completely destroyed during the fight,
but has since been rebuilt.
Niederbronn (Hotel, Vuuxkalt), a place of
annual resort during the summer months [
on account of its mineral waters, which
were known to the Romans.
On the right, after leaving Niederbronn,
notice on the heights the ruins of the
castle of Falkensteia. Ten miles farther
and the celebrated stronghold of Bitch is
reached. This fortress is situated on a
steep rock of red sandstone. The citadel
was constructed by Vauban in 1679; and
although the town was reduced to ashes, and
the barracks and other buildings burned
after a long bombardment, commenced on |
August 8, it never was taken, and was
only delivered up to Germany by the
Treaty of Frankfort.
[Discontinuing the Route No. 182, and
turning west, visiting Metz and Forbach,
then crossing Route No. 182, the traveler
can proceed east through Mannheim and
Worms to Mayence.
Metz was formerly one of the strongest for-
tresses belonging to France, and the capital
of the department of the Moselle ; it is now
the capital of German Lorraine. Hotel : de
I' Europe, a large, first-class house, newly re-
stored. It was at one time a free city of the ;
German Empire. It is situated on the Mo-
selle, and contains a population of 54.817. It
possesses a fine cathedral, partof which dates
from the 14th century. The whole church
was restored in 1830-1835. The steeple is j
385 feet high, from which the visitor has a
magnificent view of the surrounding forts
and battle-fields. On the Place d'Armes
there is a statue to Jfarechnl Fabert, dis-
tinguished in the wai-s of Louis XIV.
The church of $t. Vincent is a fine Gothic
structure, dating from the 13th century.
The church of St. Euchaise dates from the
12th century. In the Place Eoynh stands
the bronze statue of Marechal Ney, who
was born at Metz. It was erected in 1861,
and contains the simple name "Ney."
He was shot in Paris December 7, 1815.
At the southwest of the city there is a
handsome Esplanade, near which is the
great Caserne Emperor William.
The town contains also a large arsenal,
676
with a cannon-foundry, and a military hos-
pital. The fortifications were planned by
Vauban. The most important works are
the forts of Belle Croix and La Double
Couronne; also a redoubt called Le Pate,
which may be converted into an island. It
was besieged in 1552 during ten months
by the Emperor Charles V., who was final-
ly obliged to raise the siege, when it was
ceded to France with Toul and Verdun.
Until the late war it has borne the nama
of the Virgin Fortress; but on the 'J7th of
October, 170, it capitulated : 3 marshals
of France, C6 generals, 6000 officers, and
173,000 troops surrendered themselves pris-
oners of war. The whole army was under
the command of Marshal Bazaine, who was
tried by a court-martial in 1873, sitting at
the Grand Trianon, under the presidency
of the Due d'Aumale, and sentenced to be
degraded and shot, for not having done all
that duty and honor required. The court,
however, recommended him to the clem-
ency of the president, and Marshal Mac-
Mahon commuted his sentence to impris-
onment for twenty years. The Peace of
1871 incorporated the fortress with the new
German empire.
Four miles from Metz is Grai'elutte,
which will forever remain an object of
great historical importance, on account of
the bloody deeds it saw on the 16th and
18th of August, 1870. Opposite the hotel
Chfnal d'Or stands the house where Na-
poleon III. and the prince imperial slept
August 16th. Here the King of Prussia
lost 20,000 men in his attempt to stop Ba-
zaine's retreat on Verdun.
The battle of Vionville was fought on the
16th, and that of Gravelotte on the 18th.
The French, in both battles, were out-
numbered by 114,000 men. Xo colors,
guns, or prisoners were taken in either
fight. The French had 110,000, and the
Germans 190,000 infantry and 24,000 cav-
alry. An excursion should be made past
the fort St. Privat to the Chateau Frascati,
where the capitulation of Metz was signed.
Forbach. A busy manufacturing town,
and before the war the seat of the French
custom-house.
Neulirchen junction, whence the direct
line to Mayence proceeds northeast through
Oberstein, and the line to Mannheim east
through Neustadt.
From Neukirchen to Neustadt. Time, 2
M
1 yfcf
2
3 Jhlats tt* Justice
G Jardin dAi FLz
7 March* Gni
8 Th*atn>
9 Xoptiat S*2fi
10 /LJpiia.1 Bon secvurs
U. Prison
12
13 J&tfui/actur? dtxf Tabatzr
r*
S*. Svniphowem\\
X
Harper
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*** jWB *rF'Y/ //
-^i.
IB Mr d '.-trtijbrtr
17 Castfnr d'JrtiUmi*
18 Gttrfvtf Ju i'fritf
1 9 .1n*nal du dtnie
20 Jrxmal Jria Otadeilr
21
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30 .t?
32 Sfjbiim
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, ^f^-J^/J S8 Temptr i
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Book
ZWEIBRUCKEX.
[THE EMPIRE OF GERMANY.]
SAABBRUCK.
hours. Passing Hamburg, a fortress cele-
brated in tin- Thirty-years' War, whence
there is a branch line to
Zirdbriicken, former!}' the capital of the
Duchy of Zweibriicken, and the seat of its
dukes.
LanJstuhl. The former residence of the
counts of Sickingen, whose ruined castle
commands the town.
Kniferslaittent.A busy town of 18,000
inhabitants. Hotel, Schwan. A prison
now occupies the old castle built by the
Emperor Barbarossa. There are a number
of iron and woolen manufactories in the
town.
At Neustadt junction (Hotel, Lowe),
situated in a charming position, the di-
rect line from Strasburg passes through
the town.
Tin-re is a small branch line, in 45 min-
utes, to Durkhtim, a small town of 7000
inhabitants, and much frequented in the
autumn for the grajie-eure.
Lu<{iri;;*/<'i/'< a (Hotel, Deutsche* Huns),
containing TiT.OO inhabitants, formerly one
of the um-k'iit fortresses of Mannheim, and
daily becoming, since the erection of its
port, of more importance. Travelers for
lleidelberg here change ears.
Worms (Hotel, Alter Kaiser), situated
51 minutes by rail from Mayence. It
contains 11,000 inhabitants, and was al-
most entirely destroyed in 1689 by the
French under Melae. Worms was at one
time a free imperial city, and the seat of
numerous Diets, two of which were of much
importance in the history of the world.
One, held in 1495, which abolished the
right of private war; and the other at
which Luther declared for the Reformed
doctrines.
The Cathedral is the finest building in
Worms, built in the solid Romanesque
order. It has two towers at each end. It
was repaired in 1860. It has two choirs
and two altars, one for the chapter and
the other for the laity. In the chapel of
the Fonts are two fine tombs of the loth
century ; it is ordinarily closed, but a
small jiourbnire will open the door.
Notice close to the Cathedral the foun-
dations of the Blschofshof, destroyed in
1689 and 179 1. It was here that 'l.uther
appeared before Charles V. and the Diet of
the empire, which resulted in the latter
declaring his doctrines to be heretical.
VOL. II. G
On Lutherplatz stands the fine monu-
ment erected to the memory of Luther, the
last work of the sculptor Rietschel, in-
augurated June 25, 1868. It is composed
of eight statues, in bronze, elevated on a
lofty pedestal rifty feet square. In the
centre is Luthar intent on his Bible, having
at his feet his four precursors, viz., Wick-
liffc, Waldo, John Huss, and Savonarola.
At the four corners are Frederick the Wise,
Philip the Generous, Melanchthon, and
Reuchlin. Three females personify the
three cities connected with the Reforma-
tion Magdeburg, Augsburg, and Spire.
The Liebfraiienicirche, north of the city,
most of which dates from the 15th century,
was restored in 1868, and is much fre-
quented by pilgrims.
The old Jewish Synagogue, which dates
from the 12th century, is well worth a
visit.
The country around Worms is mostly
the scene of the old German poem, the
Nilielungenlied.
Railway to Frankfort, Heidelberg, and
Mannheim. For Mayence, see Route No.
184.J
Continuing our Route No. 182 we arrive
at
Saarbruck, finely situated on the River
Saar, which waters a country abounding
in fortresses. The town is divided into two
i parts by the river one side is called St.
\ Johann,&nd the other Saarbruck connected
j by a bridge, and together containing 17,200
inhabitants. Hotels, Zix on one side, and
(jiiepratte on the other.
The Schlos< was inhabited up to 1793
by the princes of Nassau-Saarbruck, and
its church contains numerous tombs of
members of this family. The town is
noted for its fine coal-mines, which em-
ploy some 15,000 workmen.
At Saarbruck the French war opened
by an attack on the town, July 30, 1870.
This was repulsed by the Germans ; but it
was again renewed on the 2d of August
with success. It was considered of the
greatest importance by Napoleon to cap-
ture this place, as it commanded three lines
of railways, on which troops and stores
were being rapidly moved. The action
commenced between nine and ten o'clock,
and at one the French had their batteries
planted in the parade-ground. When the
French had gained the heights command-
677
SAARLOCIS.
[THE EMPIRE OF GERMANY.]
TBEVES.
ing the town, the celebrated mitrailleuses j
were first posted, and with great success. |
A detachment of German soldiers under-
took to cross the railway bank, when the
mitrailleuses fired at a distance of nearly
a mile. In a moment the detachment
was dispersed, leaving half its number on
the field. A second detachment shared
the same fate. The French were in rap-
tures at this success of a weapon now first
tried in actual warfare. It was here that
the prince imperial received his " baptism
of fire."
Descending the lovely valley of the
Saar, and Saarlouis is reached. This is
a strong fortress, belonging to Prussia since
1815. It was fortified by Vauban, 1681,
in one year, for the purpose of winning a
bet he had made with Louis XIV. Its
name was changed during the first French
Revolution to Stirretibre. It is the birth-
place of Marechal Ney, whose family man-
sion is pointed out. There is an establish-
ment of faience in the vicinity.
Mettlnch. Here is an old Benedictine
abbey, founded in the 7th century. It is
now used as a manufactory of faience,
which is quite celebrated. On the top of a
rock, almost inaccessible, are the ruins of
Montclair, destroyed in 1350 by the Elector
of Treves.
Before arriving at Saarburg, notice on
the heights on the right-hand side the
chapel of Caste 1 . Frederick William IV. of
Prussia repaired it in 1838, for the purpose
of burying the remains of John of Bohe-
mia, the blind king, who was killed at the
battle of Crecy in IHlt',.
Sunrburg (Hotel, Posf), picturesquely ;
situated at the bottom of a valley, and :
commanded by the ruins of an ancient
castle belonging to the Elector of Treves. !
Treves, in Rhenish Prussia, contains a
population of 21.84 '.(. Principal hotels, |
Trierischer //'_>/' and Mnison Rouge, both j
admirably conducted. This ancient city !
is situated on the right bank of the Mo- '
selle, and has the reputation of being the
oldest city in Germany. A colony was ;
established here by the Emperor Augustus.
It afterward became the capital of the Ro- ;
man Empire north of the Alps, and the res-
idence of Constantine, Julian, Valentinian,
Theodosius, and other emperors. Treves
became the residence and was under the
rule of a series of archbishops for one thou-
678
sand years, who were princes and electors
of the German Empire. The last of these
removed to Coblentz in 1786, since which
time Treves has declined in importance.
This city contains a greater quantity of
Roman remains than any other city in
Northern Europe, more remarkable, how-
ever, for their vastness than for the beauty
or purity of their style.
The PaltUK of the Electors occupies the
site of a Roman edifice, a part only of
which remains, the rest having been de-
stroyed to make way for the palace. This
portion is now called the Heathen's Tower ;
the walls are ten feet in thickness, and,
though composed entirely of bricks and
tiles, are without a crack on the surface.
This was the favorite residence of Constan-
tine. The palace to which this building
was attached is a handsome edifice, now
used as a barrack. A little in front of the
palace are remains of Roman baths, and a
quarter of a mile east of the baths, outside
the walls, is a Roman amphitheatre, the
size of which is 234 feet long and 155 feet
broad. Here Constantine entertained his
subjects with Frankish sports, which con-
sisted of exposing thousands of unarmed
Franks to be torn to pieces by wild beasts.
The Cathedral at Treves is supposed to
have been built by the Empress Helena,
mother of Constantine, who placed here
our Saviour's coat without seam. Little
remains of the original building. It is
supposed to have consisted of nine arches,
supported bv four granite pillars ; three of
these still remain, but were walled up for
the preservation of the building in the llth
century, the fourth column having given
way. The church contains several inter-
esting monuments of the Electors of Treves.
The church of Xotre Dame, or Llehfmuen-
kirch", dates from the 13th century, and is
one of the finest specimens of pure Gothic
seen in Germany. The interior, in the
shape of a Greek cross, is supported by
12 elegant columns, on each of which is
painted an apostle. The church was re-
stored in 1871. The Bariicti, constructed
in the 4th century, formerly the residence
of the bishops, has been transformed into
a Protestant church.
To the south of this there are some R >-
man Buth*; five hundred yards from which
are situated the ruins of a Roman amphi-
theatre, in the centre of vine-covered hills.
THE RHINE FROM BASLE TO BADEN
Hai-por's Hand -Hook.
GEROI.STEIX.
; I HP. EMPIRE OF <i Kit MANY.]
COLMAR.
It was capable of containing fiC, 000 persons.
The Port 1 1 \it/ra, or Black (iate, is one of
the most interesting inoiiuments of Treves,
believed to have been built during the
time of Constantino. In the llth century,
Simeon of Syracuse made its summit his
habitation, in imitation of Simeon Stylites.
After his death he was enrolled in the cal-
endar of saints ; the building was conse-
crated, a circular apsis was attached to one
end, thus forming three churches in it, one
above another, where service was regu-
larly performed. The Town Library con-
tains some 95,000 volumes, with some rare
MSS.
To obtain a fine view of Treves, go up to
the top of the Mariensaule, a high tower
crowned by a statue of the Virgin.
An excursion should be made to fgel,
two hours from Treves, to examine the
Roman c >lumn nf ///</, one of the finest
monuments west of the Alps.
The bridge over the Moselle, mentioned
by Tacitus, is believed to have been found-
ed in the time of Augustus. It was blown
up by the French during the wars of Louis
XIV., and the piers of large stones are the
only ancient parts remaining: in, my of
thc-c arc from six to nine feet in length.
HITS navigate the Moselle, arriving
and departing each day from and to Cob-
lentz ; descending the river in twelve
hours, and ascending in thirty-six. Fare,
12 marks. By rail to Coblentz, time, 2J h. ;
to Cologne, time, 4 h. 43 m. ; fare, s marks
90 pf. and 14 marks 00 pf. respectively.
The time from Treves to Diiren on the
Cologne and Aix-la-Chapelle road is :; h.
48 m. ; fare, first class, 13 marks fcO pf. ;
second class, 10 marks 40 pf.
The route passes by the mountains of
Eifel, and part of the distance by the val-
ley of the Moselle, passing Khrung, where
it mounts through most picturesque val-
ley over bridges and viaducts.
Kylburg is finely situated at the foot of
a mountain on the banks of the Kyll,
commanded by the Gothic church of St.
Thomas.
G<rolstein. Hotels, Post and Clemens.
Picturesquely situated on the A"////, and
commanded by the ruins of an old castle.
Numerous excursions in the Eifel are
made from this point ; also that to Daun,
in 2 h. 30 m.
It id from this town that Field-Marshal
Daun, who defeated Frederick the Great
at Kolin, takes his name, although born in
Vienna in 1705.
After passing numerous unimportant
.-tat ions,
Ziilpich is reached : this is a small town
of 1500 inhabitants. It is surrounded by
mediaeval walls. In the subterranean
church under the church of St. Peter it is
supposed- that Clovis, after the battle of
Tolbiacum, was baptized, after adopting
the Christian religion.
Diiren. See Route No. 145.
ROUTE No. 183.
Strasburg to Basle, ria Colmar and Miihl-
hausen. Time, 2 h. 59 m. ; fare, first class,
13 marks 10 pf. ; second class, 9 marks
20 pf.
Slrasburg, described in Route No. 181.
There is nothing of importance to be
seen passing over this route, the towns
being only important in a manufacturing
point of view. The line runs through the
valley of Alsace, and parallel with the
Rhine anl the Canal <ln PJinm n Rhin.
S'-h'tttstndt (Hotel, de I'Aigl-), situated
on the left bank of the III, containing 9500
inhabitants, formerly a free city of the em-
pire. It was bombarded from October the
19th to the 24th, 1870, when it surrendered
to the Germans. It was unsuccessfully
besieged by the Allies in 1815.
The fortifications erected by Vaubaii
have been dismantled since the Franco-
German War. The churches of .S7. (leorgz
and St. Foy deserve a visit ; the latter was
constructed in the llth century, after the
model of that of the Holy Sepulchre at
Jerusalem.
Ribeaumlle is prettily situated at the en-
trance of a picturesque valley. Above the
town are the ruined castles of fiibeaupierre,
Girsberg, and St. t 'trick.
Two hours south of this lies the ancient
town of Kaiserberg, at the entrance to the
valley nfthe II
Colmar contains 22.000 inhabitants.
Hotel, DenxBles. This town was formwly
the capital of the department of the llnut
Rhin, now the principal seat of the Court
of Appeal for Alsace and Lorraine. In
679
JNif HL.UAUSEN.
[THE EMPIRE OF GERMANY.]
BONN.
the 13th century Colmar became a free
city of the empire. It was taken by Louis
XIV. in 1673, and its fortifications destroy-
ed. They are now used as promenades.
The Cathedral dates from the early part
of the 17th century, and contains some
good painted glass.
The Museum contains a few paintings
and a library of 35,000 volumes. Sun-
day and Thursday free, other days a small
pourboire. Notice an aerolite which fell
here in 1492.
The Halle aux BUs was formerly a
church.
Admiral Rapp was a native of Colmar.
Monuments have been erected to him on
Place Rapp and on the Champs de Mars.
Muhlhausen (Hotels, Roman and de la
Paix) was formerly the principal manu-
facturing city in the French department
of the Upper Rhine. It contains 51,000 in-
habitants, many having left when the city
was transferred to the Germans, most go-
ing to Algeria, and many of the principal
manufacturing firms going to Paris.
Muhlhausen was formerly the capital
of a small independent state, from 1466 to
1798, when it was united to France. It
was transferred to Germany in 1871 by
ihe Treaty of Frankfort. The Hotel de
Ville is the principal building in the town ;
it dates from 1551, and was restored in
1846, and contains some allegorical frescoes.
The Reformed Church is a handsome
Gothic building of modern construction ; it
is surmounted by five spires.
The edifice belonging to the Industrial
Society contains a cabinet of natural his-
tory and a technical collection.
Passing Huningiie, fortified by Vauban
in lf>79, and destroyed by the Austrians
in 1815, we arrive at
Bask. For description, see Index, Vol.III.
ROUTE No. 184.
THE TOUR OF THE RHINE.
From Cologne to Strusburg, via Bonn,
Coblentz (excursion of the Moselle to
Treves), Bit/gen (excursion to Saarbruck
via Kreuznach), Mayence, Wiesbaden (ex- j
cursion to Ems via Schwalbach and Nas-
sau), Frankfort, Darmstadt, Mnniiln-im,
1I< i>l< n,,T>/. Carhrvkt, and Badi-n - Jinden.
(For time and fares between all these locali-
ties, see p. 694.)
If making the Rhine tour for the first
time, most travelers will prefer taking the
steamer during the summer season, al-
though the views from the river's banks
in many cases surpass those from its sur-
face.
Stc-amers leave Cologne and Deutz
daily for different points on the Rhine.
There are two lines, the Dutch Company,
which runs steamers between Rotterdam
and Mannheim, and the Cologne and Dils-
seldorf Company. The boats of the last
named are the better of the two lines.
They are built somewhat on the style of
the small river boats of the United States,
having deck saloons whence an unob-
structed view in all weather. The usual
time to Mayence, which is as far as the
tourist should go by steamer, is twelve
hours. The time descending is about one
third less.
As the hours of departure are contin-
ually being changed, the traveler had
better inquire at the agency in the town ;
he had also better purchase his tick-
ets there, otherwise he may be charged
with the whole distance the steamer has
come.
Breakfasts and dinners are supplied on
board at very reasonable prices. There is
always a printed tariff which can be con-
sulted.
The Rhine ranks first among European
rivers in regard to the variety and beauty of
the scenery through which it flows, and also
in respect to the historical associations and
traditionary memories connected with its
banks, and exceeds in length any other
European river that flows directly into
the ocean being little short of SOO miles,
and draining an area of over 71,000 square
miles.
As between Cologne and Bonn there is
nothing to admire, the tourist had better
proceed to the latter point by rail. The
railway is finished to Mayence on both
banks of the river.
THE RHINE FROM COBLENZ TO DUSSELDORF
Harper's Haiul-Book .
BONN.
[THE EMPIRE OF GERMANY.]
DKACHENFEI.S.
Bonn contains 31,510 inhabitants. Prin-
cipal hotel, Grand ll<'>t<-l Royal, beautifully
situated on the banks of the Rhine, withi
fine English garden. This town is noted
for its splendid University. The build-
ing was constructed early in the last
century, is nearly a quarter of a mile
lung, and has a spacious library of over
100,000 volumes. The University was
established here by the King of Prussia
in 1818, and owes its celebrity to thej
splendid discipline maintained among the
students, who now number 820. Prince
Albert was formerly a student here. The
University contains a museum of Rhenish
antiquities. The academical hall is orna-
mented with singular fresco portraits, in
which the four faculties of philosophy, ju-
risprudence, medicine, and theology are
portrayed in the faces of the most cele-
brated teachers of the respective sciences.
The Munster, said to have been founded
by the Empress Helena, is surmounted by
five towers. It contains a few monuments,
and a bronze statue of the empress; it was
restored in 1845. The beauty of Bonn
consists in its lovely environs and long
avenues of shade-trees.
The celebrated composer Beethoven was
born here in 1770. A bronze statue by
I/iihnel'was erected to his memory in 1845.
Fifteen minutes southwest of the town
stands the castle of Poppebdoff, which con-
tains a fine collection of minerals and ob-
jects in natural history ; also a bas-relief
of the Rhine from Mayence to Bonn.
One of the finest excursions in the neigh-
borhood is to the church on the summit
of KraaAerg, behind Poppelsdorf. The
church contains a copy of the Scala Santa,
or Holy Stairs at Rome, which led to Pi-
late's jdgment-seat, and bears the stains
of the blood which fell from the Saviour's
head when wounded by the crown of
thorns. Pilgrims go up and down the
stairs upon their bended knees. In the
vault below are the bodies of the monks
who lived in the convent which formerly
stood on the site of the church. They lie
in twenty-five coffins, in an undecayed
state, exposed to the gaze of the curious.
Their shriveled skin and horrid appear-
ance, while it fills the superstitious with
holy awe, turns the intelligent traveler
away in disgust.
Godesbery. Hotel, Blinzler. A town of
10,")0 inhabitants. Much frequented for
its agreeable situation and mineral waters.
The ruins of the ancient castle of the Elec-
tors of Cologne is a most conspicuous ob-
ject ; it dates from the early part of the
13th century. It was destroyed in 1583.
The ruins are now the property of the Em-
press of German y.
There are numerous excursions in the
vicinity.
Kijnigswinter (on the left going up). Ho-
tels, efe I 'Europe and de Merlin. A hun.l-
some modern town containing 1550 inhab-
itants, and situated at the foot of the Seven
Mitinitt.tins, the best point from whence to
make a tour of the beautiful scenery of
this group of hills.
/Jrai'/n >ij','lf- so called from its cave, in
which the dragon was killed by ti.e horned
Siegfried. Its summit is crowned by an
old castle, once the fortress and watch-tow-
er of the robbers of the Rhine. Here they
could espy the vessels they intended to
plunder, and defend themselves against
one hundred times their number when at-
tacked. On one of the other summit.* was
another castle, belonging to the Archbish-
op of Cologne. Byron gives a glowing
description of this, the most enchanting
portion of the lovely Rhine :
" The castled crag of Drachenfels
Frowns o'er the wide and winding Rhine.
Whose brea?t of waters broadly swells
Between the banks which bear the vine,
And hills all rich with blossom' d trees,
And fields which promise corn and wine,
And scatter'd cities crowning the-e,
Whose far white walls along them shine,
Have strew' d a scene which I should see
With double joy wert thou with me.
" And peasant-girls, with deep blue eyes,
And hands which offer early flowers,
Walk smiling o'er this paradise ;
Above, the frequent feudal towers
Through green leaves lift their walls of gray,
And many a rock which steeply lowers,
And noble arch in proud de-ay,
Look o'er this vale of vintage-bowers ;
But one thing want these banks of Rhiiic
Thy gentle hand to cla-p i:i lain.'.
" The river nobly foams and fl >\vs.
The charm of this enchanted grourvl.
And all its t!n.u-:\ml turns disclose
Some fresher b-Miity varying round :
The haughtiest breast its wish might boun<1
Through life t<> dwell delighted here'
Nor could on earth a spot be found
To Nature and to me so dear,
Could thy dear eyes, in foKo \ ing mine,
Still sweeten more these bank' of Rhine."
G81
ROLAHDSECK.
[THE EMPIRE OF GERMANY.]
ANDEKNACH.
A railway *vas laid in 1883 to the sum-
mit of the Drachenfels ; 10 min. ; 1-J m.
As far as lovely scenery is concerned,
this portion of the Rhine is considered the
finest. On a small island in the river is
the building once used by the nuns of St.
Ursula. When these establishments were
broken up by the French, this one was pre-
served through the intercession of Jose-
phine. It is now used as a nunnery for
Sisters of Charity. The bride of Roland,
nephew of Charlemagne, took the veil here
on hearing a false report of her husband's
death, and on the left bank (right as you
ascend) of the Rhine stands the castle of
Rolundseck, built, it is said, by Roland,
that he might see the convent where his
bride had hidden herself from the world.
The castle was at one time the home of a
band of robbers, who made themselves the
terror of the Rhine.
Rolandstck station. Hotel, de Rolands-
eck. The modern Bdcidere, built high
above the castle, some twenty minutes
from the hotel, is one of the very best
points of view on the Rhine; fee, 5 g.
Half a mile farther is the crater of Roders-
bery, seventy feet deep, and four hundred
yards in diameter.
On the right as we ascend the town of
Unkel is passed, where the river makes
a wide curve. The country residences
here are numerous and handsome.
Remagen. Hotel, Furstenberg. This is
a centre for numerous excursions. This
was the Rigomagus of the Romans. Be-
low this town, situated on an eminence,
stands the magnificent Gothic church of
Apollonariakirche, erected by the Count
Filrstenberg - Stammheim. Open from
9.30 A.M. to 12 M., and from 2 to 4 P.M.
It was finished in 1839 by Zwirner, archi-
tect of the Cologne Cathedral. It is orna-
mented with ten large frescoes, by Deger,
M tiller, and Ittenbach. The view from
the church is superb.
On our left, near the water, is the town
of Linz, strongly fortified. The archbish-
ops of Cologne built the tower we still see
thee for the purpose of defending the town
against the natives of Andernach, and to
collect the toll from the navigators of the
Rhine.
ThePfarrkirche, on the height, contains
a fine picture of the Annunciation and
Crucifixion, Nativity, Presentation, and
682
Adoration. Twenty minutes from the
town are the basalt quarries of Dutteitberrj ;
and one and a half hours farther are those
of Afindenberg, near which is the chateau
of the Prince of Salm-Kryburg.
On the same side the blackened walls
of the castle of Ockernfelt arc passed.
The castle of ^-1 rnifi-ls, which rises on
our right, was erected by Henry of Isen-
bnrg, and now the property of Count Wes-
terholt, by whom it has been restored.
llonninyen station on the same side, then
Niederbreisiff on the left : at the south
end of this town there is an old Templars'
lodge.
On our left we pass the small village of
RMaeet, to the east of which rises a
square tower eighteen feet high, the only
remnant of the castle of Rheincck, which
was dismantled by the French in 1089. and
destroyed in 1775. Adjoining it a new
castle was erected by Herr von Bethmann-
Holl\veg in 1832. The interior contains
some fine frescoes and modern pictures.
On our right we pass the village of
Brohl : it is celebrated for its tufa-stone,
of volcanic origin, which, when ground up
into powder, possesses the peculiar proper-
ty of hardening under water, often being
made into cement. The stone was used
by the Romans for coffins, as it had the
property of absorbing the moisture of
the bod}'. This gave them the name of
sarcophagi, or " flesh-consumers," applied
now to all stone coffins. The cement is
used largety in the construction of the
dikes of Holland.
On the left notice on the summit of a
rock the remains of the castle of Hammer-
stein. This was the refuge, in 1105, of the
Emperor Henry IV. when persecuted by
his son, Henry V. It was also during that
time the place of deposit of the re^lia of
the empire. It was besieged and occu-
pied by the Swedes during the Thirty-
years' War, and destroyed by the Arch-
bishop of Cologne in 1660.
Amkntach (Hotel, llackenbrucli), one
of the most ancient towns on the banks of
the Rhine. It was called by the Romans
Antonacum,and was conquered by the Ale-
manni in 335 ; retaken by the Emperor
Julian in 359. It was captured and burned
l>y the French in 1698. Notice the lofty
watch-tower breached by the French can-
non.
NECWIED.
[THE EMPIRE OF GERMANY.]
COBLESTZ.
On the left we pass the town of Xeuwied.
Hotel, Aitkn: In this town is a palace be-
lon^ing to the Prince of Wind, which con-
tains numerous relics dug up near the
town, and supposed to belong to the inhal>-
itants of the colony of Victoria, destroyed
in the 4th century.
The community of the IferrenAuttr, or
Moravian Brothers, occupy a separate por-
tion of the town. They munlicr about 400
members. They were originally follow-
ers of John Huss. They have their own
laws, which are administered by their
elders. The unmarried brethren live in
a separate building, carrying on different
trades, the produce of which is devoted to
the society. The females are all dressed
in a particular manner, according to their
station iu life. The head-dress of a young
girl is red ; unmarried young woman,
pink; married, lilue : and willows, white.
Strangers can visit their establishment,
but they are expected to purchase some of
their wares.
On the right notice a square watch-tow-
er called > I 'tin.i(-nf/i a /-HI. or ''White Tower,"
on the frontier of Treves. It is noted for
being the place where the French crossed
the Rhine in 1797. in spite of the Anstrians,
who fiercely contested their passage. A
monument has been erected to the French
General Hoche, who consummated that
memorable exploit by imitating Julius
Caesar, who, nearly 20UO years ago. cross-
ed the river in the same manner when
leading his armv against the Sicam-
bri.
On the opposite side of the river stands
the village of En</cr.<. the ancient capital
of the Engersgaii. Here in the 14th cen-
tury the Archbishop von Falkenstein erect-
ed a castle to protect the Rhine traders
against the counts of "\Vesterwald. No-
tice a portion of its tower rising from a
modern chateau erected in 1758, now used
as a military school.
Mfilillii'fni, above which are the iron-
works. Sonic three miles up the valley
is the village and chateau of .">>/.'/, the
property of the Prince fSayn-Wittgeiistein.
It contains some fine modern paintings,
which are shown in the absence of the
family. Some distance beyond are the
ruins of the old castle of the same family
destroyed by the French during the Thir-
ty-years' War, and farther on is the castle
of the robber-knights the Counts of I sen-
burn.
At Xeuendorf many of the large timber
rafts the tourist meets on the Rhine are
formed from smaller ones.
On the right, near Kesselheim, stand
the ruins of the castle of Schonbornlimt,
formerly the residence of the Electors of
Treves, and during he French Revolution
the residence of many of the Bourbon
princes, the head-quarters of the exiles,
where all their plots were hatched for the
recovery of France from the Republicans.
Before arriving at Coblentz the com-
manding rock of Ehrenbreitstein, the "Gi-
braltar of the Rhine," comes in view. It
stands 400 feet above the level of the
Rhine. As early as 1018 it was presented
by the Franconian king Dagobert to the
bishops of Treves, who made it their
stronghold; later they built a palace at
the foot of the rock. The fortress has
only twice been captured : first by the
French, in 1631, through stratagem, and
again by the French in 1798, when all its
proviMons had been exhausted. It was
besieged by Louis XIV. in 1688 ; and, al-
though the great engineer Vauban brought
all his ability to bear against it, he was
unsuccessful. It was also besieged dur-
ing the years 1795 to 1798. The French
added some new works to increase its
strength ; but after the Peace of Lune-
ville in 1801 they blew it up. After the
Peace of Pari.s it was restored to Prus-
sia, and the French paid fifteen million
francs for the purpose of placing it in its
former condition. , It cost the Prussian
government eighteen million francs to re-
pair it.
It is capable of accommodating 100,000
men, but 5000 are sufficient to man it
properly. It is defended by 400 cannon.
It is said that provisions for 8000 men for
ten years can be stored in its magazines.
It contains about 50,000 stands of arms,
all needle-guns. It may be visited by
procuring a ticket, for which a small fes is
demanded.
Fort . -1 *t< >vt> in is situated south of Eh-
renbreitsteir. and completes the fortiiica-
tions on that side of the Rhine.
Ci: li/ii/,'-.. -The river is here crossed by
a bridge of boats. The town is built upon
a triangular piece of land between the
rivers Moselle and Rhine, and is surround-
683
COBLEXTZ.
[THE EMPIRE OF GERMANY.]
COBLEXTZ.
ed by powerful fortifications. The streets
are mostly regular, and many of the pub-
lic buildings handsome. Principal hotel,
and one of the best on the Rhine, is the
Giant, directly opposite the steamboat land-
ing; the proprietors are vine-dealers.
Coblentz was founded B.C. 9, and was
called Confluentes, from the confluence of
the two rivers Moselle and Rhine, which
name has become corrupted to Coblentz.
It is the capital of the Rhenish provinces
of Prussia, and the strongest bulwark of
Germany.
It was taken by the French in 1794, who
made it the capital of the department of
the Rhine and Moselle. In 1814 the Allies
compelled the French to evacuate the town,
since which time it has belonged to Prus-
sia. Its situation is one of the most love-
ly and agreeable on the Rhine, especially
during the summer season ; the great num-
ber of arrivals and departures each day
(as all tourists must stop here), the pres-
ence of the military, who are every where
to be seen, its parades, music, etc., make
two or three daj's' residence very enjoy-
able.
Near the junction of the two rivers is
situated the church of St. Castor, founded
in 836 ; it is the church in which Charle-
magne divided his empire among his
grandchildren. Most of the present
structure dates from the 13th century, and
its pointed arches belong to the 15th. In
the choir there is a fine monument to Arch-
bishop von Falkenstein ; also two good
modern frescoes. There is also a monu-
ment to St. Riza, eracted in 18C2. In
front of this church is a fountain, erected
as a monument by Napoleon on his march
to invade Russia, with an inscription re-
cording the event. A few months later,
the Russians, in pursuit of the French
army on their way to Paris, passed the
monument, when the commander of the
forces ordered the following sarcastic ad-
dition to the inscription : " Vu et approuve
par nous, commandant Russe de la Ville de
Coblence, Janvier l er , 1814 " " Seen and
approved by us, Russian commandant of
the city of Coblentz, January 1, 1814."
The principal building in Coblentz is the
palace built by the Bishop of Treves in
1778. It has been fitted up for the Em-
peror of Germany as a summer residence.
It fronts on the great square, on which
684
stands a fountain obelisk. Parades are
held here once a week, when the military
band plays, Wednesdays at 11.30. The in-
terior is beautifully adorned, and may be
visited when the imperial family are ab-
sent. The banqueting and electoral halls
are very fine. The north wing contains
the palace chapel, adjoining is an English
chapel, which the emperor has placed at
the disposition of the resident English.
Above the bridge of boats a splendid
new iron railway bridge was opened in
1866. Foot passengers can also cross.
Near this is the .4 nlayen, or Rhine Gardens
land reclaimed from the Rhine by the Em-
press of Germany a beautiful walk along
the banks of the river, where the military
band often plays. There is a Cn.<ii> in
the town, with a fine ball-room, reading-
rooms, and garden. Coblentz is not a
business place of great repute ; it is only
well known for the production of spark-
ling Moselle and Hock wines. Messrs. H.
Htirter and Son, wholesale wine merchants,
purveyors to the Emperor of Germany,
have the finest establishment and lar-
gest wine-cellars here, and well worth a
visit. They keep an immense stock of the
choicest sparkling Moselle and Hock, far
superior to Champagne. Besides these
wines, you will find in their cellars a col-
lection of all the choice wines of the coun-
try, viz., the genuine Castle Johannisberg,
the Steinberg Cabinet, Hochheim, Marco-
brunn, etc. The gentlemen of the firm are
most happy in showing visitors the whole
process of preparing the wines. This house
has also a branch establishment at Ham-
burg, near Frankfort, also one in London,
11 Adam St. Seltzer-water and wine are the
principal articles of commerce at Coblentz.
On the left bank, below the junction of
the Moselle, stands the monument erected
to the youthful and heroic General Mar-
ceau, who was killed at the battle of Al-
tenkirchen in 1796.
" By Coblentz, on a rise of gentle ground,
There is a small and simple pyramid,
Crowning the .summit of a verdant mound;
Beneath its base a hero's ashes hid
Our enemy's ; but let not that forbid
Honor tn Uarcean, o'er whose early tomb
Tear?, bier trars, gushed from the rough sol-
diers' lid,
Lamenting and yet envying such a doom,
Falling for France, whose rights he battled to
resume."
THE RHINE FROM BADEN TO COBLENZ
^ {tlfHliU!
- ! r "filiffffen
THE MOSELLE FROM TREVES TO COBLENZ
HUI-JXT'S Hand -Book.
COBLEXTZ.
[THE EMPIRE OF GERMANY.]
COCHEM.
The excursions in the vicinity of <'<>!>-
Icntz are both interesting iind numerous.
The principal is that to the castle of AVo/-
ii/i/'i/.t. It was built by one of the arch-
bishops of Troves, both as a residence and
fortress, and is one of the most imposing
castles on the Rhine, and the view is un-
surpassed. It was presented to the King
of Prussia by the city of Coblentz, by
whom it was repaired. Many of the rooms
are beautifully frescoed. The armory
contains numerous relics, among -which
are the swords of Murat, Napoleon, and
Blucher. Queen Victoria and the Prince
Consort were entertained here by the
King of Prussia in 18-15. It may be
either visited by carriage from Coblentz
one-horse carriage, 4 marks ; two horses,
5 marks ; distance three miles or from the
railway station of Cupellen, fee for one per-
son, 1 mark : for a party, 3 marks. About
half an hour's distance from the town stands
the hydropathic station of Laubaclt, where
there is good accommodation for moderate
prices. It is finely situated on the verge
of a forest, where there is capital shooting :
it belongs to the Messrs. Hiirter of Cob-
lentz, who are exceedingly kind in
granting visitors permission to shoot.
To the Hill of Ckartreute^ another inter-
esting walk or drive, a visit should ba
made ; the view is magnificent. It is
half a mile above the town, and takes its
name from an old convent, which was re-
moved to give place to Fort Congtuntinr.
Furt Alexander crowns the top of the slope.
Another excursion is that to the Kuh-
kopf, the highest point of the forest, llOi)
feet above the level of the sea. From this
spot there is a magnificent view of the
" Seven Mountains " near Bonn, the Eifel,
Coblentz, and all the surrounding vil-
lages.
The following excursions are well worth
making, each one of which will occupy one
day :
1. To the Castle o/Eltz, belonging to the
Count of Eltz, a splendid drive along the
^I<i.'lle ; it is beautifully situated in a ra-
vine surrounded by mountains.
'2. To tho. Lake nf Lttac/t, where the vi-
cinity is all volcanic; near which is A7/< /-
.!/ ///'/, a village with a dozen or more
breweries. The cellars are very cold, sit-
uated in volcanic stones. Return by the
valley of Brohl and the iron watering-
Voi.. II. G 2
place of Tdtriutan the water here re-
sembles those of Setters (accommodation
at the Kurhatis) and by Andernach.
3. To.\ Hii/ti/ir, a watering-place opened
in 1858. The waters of which are most
efficacious in cases of pulmonary com-
plaints, gout, and scrofula; less strong
than those of Carlsbad, but stronger than
those of Ems or Vichy ; they are also
beneficial in cases of diabetes. On a lofty
peak rises the Castle ofNeunatr, once the
seat of a younger branch of the Counts
Von cler Ahre.
From this place to Altenahr in one hour
through a magnificent valley, where the
famous Wulporzheim red wine grows. Go
by rail from Coblentz to Remagen, then by
carriage to Neuenahr, Altenahr, and back
to Remagen.
4. To A hrenberg, where there is a church
built by the priest himself, the interior
of which is in imitation of mosaic, from
whence there is another splendid view of
Ehrenbreitstein, Coblentz, and the Rhine
and Moselle valleys.
[The Mosel'e River to Treves. This is ao
excursion that can not be particularly rec-
ommended, unless the traveler has plenty
of time, and has some particular reason for
going to Treves by river, occupying two
days ; or coming from Treves to Coblentz,
taking twelve or fifteen hours. There are
few objects of attraction, with the excep-
tion of ruined castles and pretty views;
and if the water should be low, which is
! generally the case in summer, recourse
j must be taken to row-boats, or land and
take the diligence. For a pedestrian the
route is always interesting. We would,
however, advise an excursion as far as
Cochem, up one day and down the next.
The railway from Coblentz to Treves is
only 2 h. 16 m. ; fare, 8 marks 90 pf.
The principal towns on the river going
up are, on the right, Winningen, where some
of the best wine is produced.
Right. C'ibein, above which is the cas-
tle of Niederburg, the seat of the knights
of Cobern.
Riyht. Gondorf, with an old electoral
castle, and the family mansion of the C"vnts
von der Leyen. A large quantity of pipe-
clay is shipped from here to Holland.
Left. Alken, an old town, connected by
walls and towers to the Castle ofThurand,
situated on the height above. It dates
685
BHODENBACH.
[THE EMPIRE OF GERMANY.]
NEUMAGEN.
from 1197, and was in the 13th century
the stronghold of the robber-knight Pfalz-
grate Zorn, who was here besieged for two
years by the Archbishop of Treves. The
garrison, having been starved out, were
obliged to surrender, but Zorn cut his way
through the enemy.
Brodenbach stands near the mouth of the
Ehrenbach, on our left. Two miles back
is the fine old Castle of Ehrenberg, the
finest of the castles on the Moselle, and
equaled by few on the Rhine. It is now
the property of the Stein family.
Right. Moselkern, situated at the mouth
of the Eltz. In the valley of this river
stands the old Castle, of Eltz, and higher
up that of Bisckofstein, built in the 13th
century, and belonging at one time to the
Archbishop of Treves.
Right. Cochem contains a population
of 2600 inhabitants. Here may be seen
the ruins of a castle which served as the
residence of the Archbishop of Treves from
the 14th to the 16th century. In a side
valley lower down is the Castle of Winne-
berg, the most ancient family seat of the
princes of Metternich. It has lately been
restored by its owner, the present prince,
who resides at Vienna.
Right. A If, situated at the entrance of
the valley of that name, through which
the tourist passes the ruins of the Castle of
Arras on the route to Kertrich (Hotels,
Klering and Werlinrj), a watering - place,
whose baths are efficacious in cases of
gout, rheumatism, and maladies of the
nerves. There is a good road from the
river to the baths.
Left. Zell, an old town of 2000 inhab-
itants, overlooked by an ancient watch-
tower.
Left. Punderich. On the opposite side,
half an hour from the shore, stand the cel-
ebrated ruins of the ancient castle and
convent of Marienbury. The view from
the eminence of Prinzenskopfcken is con-
sidered the most beautiful on the river.
There is a small place of entertainment
situated within the ruins, where one can
breakfast or dine.
Right. Traben. Hotel, Feist. On the
heights are the ruins of Mont Royal, built
by Vauban in 1686 by order of Louis X I V.
After many millions had been spent upon
it, it was razed to the ground in accordance
with the Treaty of Ryswick, sixteen years
686
after it was built. It completely com-
mands the river, up and down.
Left. Nearly opposite Traben stands
Trarbttch, a small industrious town, one
of the most flourishing on the river, but
with narrow, dirty streets. It is surmount-
ed by the ruins of the Cast'e of Grafinbnrg,
which completely commands the river, and
is the most formidable position between
Coblentz and Treves. It was constructed
in the 14th century by the Count of Spon-
heim, with the proceeds of the ransom of
the Archbishop of Treves, whom his mother
captured one night when descending the
Moselle, and confined within the castle for
attempting to infringe upon her rights.
The castle was dismantled by the French
in 1734.
Right. Uerzig. Below the village, in
the face of a red cliff, a wall may be seen
which covers the mouth of a cave, once
the residence of a band of robber-knights.
A road leads from here to Wittlich and the
Eifel.
Left. Berncastel, the capital of the dis-
trict, contains 2000 inhabitants. It is sur-
mounted by the ruined Castle of Landshut.
It was partly burned in 1857. There is
a diligence to Treves in six hours, and to
Birkenfeld in the same time.
Left. Neiimagen, the Noviomagus of the
Romans, M'here Constantine formerly had
a castle, few vestiges of which now remain,
and they might be the ruins of any thing
else. There is a church which dates from the
12th century, and, it is said, was mostly con-
structed with material taken from the castle.
There are several other small places of
no importance, then Treves.
Route 182. Treves to Metz, 2J hours ; 8
m., 20 pf.
Coblentz to Paris, via Cologne. Time, 13
h. 52 m. ; fare, 55 marks 10 pf.
Coblentz to Cologne (rail). Time, 1 h. 56
m. ; fare, first class, 7 marks 30 pf.
Coblentz to Mayence. Time, 1 li. 51 m. ;
fare, first class, 7 marks 90 pf.
Coblentz to Frankfort. Time, 2 h. 44 m. ;
fare, first class, 11 marks 30 pf.
If wishing to visit Ems direct, without
making the excursion from Wiesbaden by
carriage through Schwalbach and Nassau,
the time from Coblentz by rail is only one
hour. If wishing to make some stay at
that charming watering-place, go direct
by rail. If not intending to make the ex-
OBERLAHXSTKIN.
[THE KM FIRE OF GERMANY.]
WELMICK.
cursion by carriage, make a visit from '
Coblentz, and return there.
The Nassau St it,- Railway from Cob-
lentz to \Viesb.iden. on the left bank of
the Rhine going up, in 2 h. 30 m. Several
trains daily.
Continuing our route up the Rhine, we
pass on the IP ft the ruined church of St.
John ; then
Oberlnhnftiin (Hotel, WeUer\ surround-
ed by the remains of ancient walls. The '
old castle, once the residence of the Elec-
tors of Mayence, was founded 1394. Some
restorations were made during the last
century. Behind the town rises the pict-
uresque f'astlf off.ahneck, from which there
is :\ charming view. It has been bought
by a Mr. Moriarty. an Irish gentleman,
who has repaired it with considerable taste.
A 1 love Cupellen, the station for Stolzen-
fels. H the Kdniffsttukl, originally construct-
ed by the Emperor Charles I V. in liJTti. and
rebuilt out of the old material in 1843.
The electors held their meetings on the
stone seat at the top. This place was chosen
by the four Rhenish electors as their place
of meeting, as e.ieh party on breaking up
could reach his dominions in a few min-
utes : the town of Braubach belonging to
the Palatinate, Stolzenfels to Treves, Lahn-
stein to Mayence, and Rhcnse to Cologne.
Hen- numerous emperors were elected,
treaties signed, and decrees issued. Ten
minutes from here lies the town of
Rheuse, still surrounded by the walls and
fus-cs erected by the Electors of Cologne.
B/aubdch, a small town on our left, sit-
uated at the Imttom of a conical hill, on
which stands the imposing Castle of Markt-
burg, 500 feet above the river. It was
originally a chap;-], dedicated to St. Mark
by Count Philip of Katzenelnbogen. The
government of Nassau used it as a state
prison. It contains numerous horrible dun-
geons, one of which is called the Ifangloch.
where prisoners were let down in a bucket.
There were also dungeons expressly for
torture - rooms, in one of which the Em-
peror Henry IV. was confined by his son.
After passing the village of Ostfrspny.
above which rises the Castle of Liebeneck,
Koppard is reached. It is an ancient.
walled to'.vn. on our right as we ascend.
and contains :>.V() inhabitants. It was for-
merly a free imperial city, and numerous
Dietswere held here. The principal church,
the f/auplkirche, deserves a visit. Behind
tin- town stands the old Convent ofMarien-
linn/, transformed into a water-cure estab-
li.-hmcnt. On the bank of the river is an-
other water-cure establishment, that of
M ithl'iii'l. Above Boppard, on the other
side of the river, lies
Camp, so called from the remains of an
intrenehment found on the hill. They
may lie Roman or more modern.
On the right stands the Convent 'fBcrn-
h'>i'< ti. a favorite resort of pilgrims, above
which stand ' the Brothers," or the ruins
of two castles inhabited by the brothers Con-
rad and Heinrich von Boppard, who both
loved their foster-sister Hildegarde. There
are two stories told of their lives and death.
One that they fought and killed each other;
the other, the more interesting and roman-
tic of the two, is that Heinrich, with gener-
ous impulse, departed for the Crusades, to
leave his brother in possession of the beauti-
ful maid ; but Conrad, hearing of the brave
deeds of his brother, pined to join him,
and became cold and indifferent to his
sister. He soon left for the wars, leaving
Hildegarde to brood and pine over the loss
of her lover; but he soon returned with a
young and beautiful Grecian bride. The
indignant Hildegarde shut herself up in
one of the loneliest chambers of the castle.
Late one night a stranger knight craved
shelter, who proved to be the brother
Heinrich, who, hearing the wrongs of his
outraged sister, challenged his brother to
mortal combat ; but Hildegarde insisted on
a reconciliation, and soon after, Conrad's
bride proving faithless, Hildegarde retired
to the convent of Bornhofen, and the two
brothers lived ever after in harmony and
affection.
On the left we pass Wefmick, with the
ancient Castle of Thurnberg. On the op-
posite side St. Goar (Hotel, Hheinftls), with
the Ctistlf, end Furtress of It h( in ft Is. At the
present time it l>elongs to the King of Prus-
sia, and is one of the most imposing ruins
on the river. It was founded in 1245 br
Count Diether III. of Katzenelnbogen, for
the purpose of collecting an increased
Rhine toll : a confederation of Rheni.-h
towns determined to resist the tax, and
1 tin- c-a-tl? unsuccessful!}' for tit-
teen months. In lt">9'2 it was successfullv
defended against the French ; but was capt-
ured by them in 1758, in whose possess! <:
687
OBERWESEL.
[THE EMPIRE OF GERMANY.]
BACHARACH.
it remained five years. It was again taken
by the French revolutionary forces in 1794.
Three years after it was blown up and
sold for 300.
The Castle of Xi-u-Katzenelnbogen, known
as the "Cat, 71 is situated behind St. Goar,
and was erected by Count Johann of Kat-
zenelnbogen in 1393. It fell into the
hands of the French in 1794, who razed its
fortifications.
Three miles up the Swiss valley stands
the Castle of Reicheriberg, built in 1284 ; de-
stroyed soon after; then restored by the
Elector of Treves, and again destroyed by
Tilly during the Thirty-years' War.
On our right is the celebrated echo rock
Lorelei, rising 450 feet perpendicularly
above the Rhine. There is an old romance
that a siren who dwelt here used to lure fish-
ermen and sailors to her abode at the top,
and then dash them headlong to destruc-
tion. The echo is repeated a great many
times. The German students amuse them-
selves by asking the rock, "Who is the
burgomaster of Oberwesel?" (the adjoining
town) ; the question is repeated, but only
the termination is heard, "Esel," which
means ass in German. The mountain is
penetrated by the railway tunnel.
Obenoesel, on the right, is one of the
most picturesque villages on the Rhine.
Hotel, Goldentr Pfropfenzieher, " Golden
Corkscrew." The sign, painted by a Diis-
seldorf painter, is kept in the coffee-room.
Thetowu is surroundedbytowers and walls,
and was once a free town of the empire.
The church of Our Lady is a beautifully
proportioned Gothic building, erected early
in the 15th century. The old wood-carv-
ings of the high-altar are very fine. A
portion of the altar-piece in the north
chapel represents the landing of the 11,000
Virgins.
Behind this church, on an elevation,
is situated the Castle ofSchomberg, destroy-
ed by Louis XIV. in 1689. This was the
ancient seat of the celebrated counts of
Schomberg, one of whom was a general of
the Prince of Orange, and was killed in
Ireland at the celebrated battle of the
Boyne. He was afterward interred in
Westminster Abbey.
Back of the small town of Caub, on our
ri.ccht, rises the stately Castle of Gutenfels,
where in 1257 the Duke of Cornwall, broth-
er of Henrv III. of England, and Emperor
688
of German}', married the beautiful Count-
ess of Falkenstein. In 1804 it became the
property of the Duke of Nassau, was dis-
mantled by Napoleon in 1805, and in 1807
finally abandoned.
Nearly opposite in the river rises a
small island, on which is built a singular
castle. It is called the 1'falz, and was
erected by the Emperor Lewis of Bavaria,
at the commencement of the 12th century,
as a toll-house for exacting tribute from
passing vessels. It was on this little isl-
and that Louis Le Debonnaire retired to die
in 840, wearied with the world and tired of
the cares of his empire ; and here the Count-
esses Palatine always repaired previous to
their accouchemeuts, that they might be
secure and quiet during that period of
their lives from the turbulence of the out-
er world.
Bacharach so called from Bacchi Ari,
the Altar of Bacchus is situated on the
right as we ascend, and has a most pict-
uresque appearance, surrounded by walls
and towers. The town received its name
from a rock in the river, generally cover-
ed with water, but in dry seasons (which
is best for the culture of the grape) the
rock is exposed, which is a sure barometer
to the wine-grower. The town was early
celebrated for its wine, and Pope Pius II.
had annually a cask of the wine of Bacha-
rach sent to Rome ; the town of Nurem-
berg obtained its freedom from the Em-
peror Wenzel by paying a tribute of four
casks of this wine every year.
The church of St. Peter is a remarkable
specimen of the Romanesque style, back
of which stands the ruin of St. Werner's
Church, erected in the loth century to com-
memorate the canonization of a boy called
Werner, who was said to have been mur-
dered by the Jews. Behind it rise the
ruins of the Castle ofStahleck, formerly the
seat of the Electors Palatine. It was de-
stroyed by the French in 1680. and is now the
property of the Dowager Queen of Prussia.
Up the adjacent valley are the ruins of
the Cattle of Stahlberg.
On our right we pass the round tower
of the ancient Castle of Ffirstenberg, de-
stroyed by the French in 1689. When the
Emperor Adolph was on his way to his
coronation at Cologne, the occupants of
this castle had the impudence to demand
toll, which being refused his vessel was
LORCH.
[THE EMPIRE OF GERMANY.]
EHRENFELS.
fired on by the retainers. It was besieged
and captured in 1321 by the Emperor Lewi?,
who p resented it to his queen, Margaret of
Holland.
Lorch (Hotel, Schu-an) dates from the
9th century. This town was at one time
the residence of the noble families of the
Ithfingau. It is situated on our left as we
ascend, at the mouth of the picturesque
valley of the H'w/>er. The old church con-
tains numerous objects of interest, among
others a carved altar, font, and monument
to John UHchen, field-marshal, who distin-
guished himself against the French and
Turks.
On the left is the village of Niederheim-
bach, above which is the ruined Castle of
J/> imlurg. Higher up, where the valley
of ilie Rhine contracts, is the picturesque
tower of Soaneck. It belonged originally
to a robber castle built to guard the en-
trance to the valley. It was dismantled
by the Emperor Rudolph, and is now the
property of the royal family of Prussia.
On our right we juiss the village of
Trtcfttings/iau.<fn, beyond which rise the
ruins of t'a'kenJjitrg. a very ancient castle,
built by a robber-knight. Philip von Ho-
henfels. It was dismantled by the Rhen-
ish Confederation of Towns : but again re-
stored by its owner, who again commenced
his depredatory excursions, when it was
again besieged by the Emperor Rudolph,
and its owner consigned to the gallows.
Assmannshdnsen, on the left, noted for
its celebrated red wines, near which nu-
merous Roman baths have been discovered.
On the opposite bank rises the cele-
brated Ctiftle nf Jlheiii.tffin. Origin un-
known. but dating back to the llth century.
In 1348 it was the property of the Von
Falkensteins. Between 1825 and 1829 it
was rebuilt by Prince Frederick of Prussia,
whose remains are interred in a side chapel.
The castle is furnished and decorated to
resemble that of a castle of olden times.
Paintings, armor, painted -glass windows,
etc. It is shown freely to strangers. Fee,
one person, 1 mark ; party, '2 marks.
The Clemenskirchf, close by, was aldo re-
stored bv Prince Frederick.
THE RHEINGAU.
Whoever visits the Rhine must feel
sensible of the beauty of its vineyards,
covering steep and shore, interlacing with
the most romantic ruins. Nowhere is the
fondness for vine cultivation more evident
in ever}' grade and class of farmer than in
the Rhenish wine districts. The humblest
peasant has his square yard of vineyard,
and every accessible spot, it will be seen,
is decorated with the favorite plant. From
Mayencc to Coblentz, and from the latter
city to Bonn, the country is covered with
vineyards.
The true Hochheimer -wine, from which
is derived and erroneously used the name
"Hock," which is applied to all German
! wines, is grown to the eastward of May-
ence, at Hochheim, on the banks of the
Main, between that place and Frankfort.
The town stands in the midst of vineyards.
The whole produce is only twelve large
casks, which sell on the spot for $800 per
cask. The property is divided among sev-
eral owners. The whole eastern bank (the
left bank as we ascend) of the Rhine to the
Rheingau, throughout its entire extent,
has been remarkable for its wines during
| many centuries. In fact, the whole dis-
trict is a delicious wine-garden. The cult-
] ure of the vine was introduced here by
the Emperor Probus.
A very erroneous conception exists in re~
' gard to the respective qualities of the wine
grown on the Rhine or in the Rheingau,
and on the authority of a gentleman whom
we consider the first judge of Rhine wines,
we give them in the following order,
viz., first, Rudesheimer Berg, Johannisberg,
Steinberger, Jtautntkaler, Marcobrunner,
and Hochheimer. Of the second order,
Geisenhtimer, Oestricher Winket, etc. Of
the sparkling wines, the "Pearl of the
Rhine," Hiirter & Son, Coblentz, is the
best-
Above Rheinstein, on the opposite bank,
rise the ruins of Ehrenfels, founded by the
governor of the Rheingau in 1210. It was
the frequent residence and stronghold of
the archbishops of Mayence, who generally
retired here with their treasures in danger-
ous times. It was stormed by the Swedes
in 1635, also during the Thirty-years' War,
and destroyed by the French in 1689.
Here lie the celebrated slopes of t\\z R'udes-
kdmer fiery, where the surface is raised
terrace above terrace. It is said that
Charlemagne, observing from his castle at
IngeiAdm that the snow first melted here,
689
EHRENFELS.
[THE EMPIRE OF GERMANY.]
ordered the vines to be brought from Or-
leans and planted on this spot.
Near the mouth of the river, and oppo-
site the Castle of Ehrenfels, is a small
square tower, immortalized by Southey in
the following tradition :
"BISHOP HATTO.
" The summer and autumn hath been so wet,
That in winter the corn was growing yet ;
Twas a piteous sight to see all around
The grain lie rotting on the ground.
"Every flay the starving poor
Crowded around Bishop Hatto's door,
For he had a plentifal last year's store;
And all the neighborhood could tell
His granaries were furnish' d well.
" At last Bishop Hatto appointed a day
To quiet the poor without delay :
He bade them to his great barn repair,
And they should have food for the winter
there.
" Rejoiced at such tidings, good to hear,
The poor folk flock'd from far and near ;
The great barn was full as it could hold
Of women and children, and young and old.
" Then, when he saw it could hold no more.
Bishop Hatto he made fast the door ;
And while for mercy on Christ they call,
He set fire to the barn and burnt them all.
" ' I' faith, 'tis an excellent bonfire :* quoth he,
' And the country is greatly obliged to me
For ridding it, in these times forlorn,
Of rats that only consume the corn.'
" So then to his palace returned he,
And he sat down to his supper merrily,
And he slept that night like an innocent man ;
But Bishop Hatto never slept again.
"In the morning, as he enter'd the hall,
Where his picture hung against the wall,
A sweat like death all o'er him cam" 1 ,
For the rats had eaten it out of the frame.
" As he look'd there came a man from his farm ;
He had a countenance white with alarm.
'My lord, I open'd your granaries this morn,
And the rats had eaten all your corn.'
"Another came running presently,
And he was as pale as pale could be :
< Fly ! my lord bishop, fly,' quoth he ;
' Ten thousand rats are coming this way;
Th Lord forgive you for yesterday!'
" I'll go to my tower on the Rhine,' replied he;
'Tis the safest place in Germany;
The walls are high, and the shores are steep,
And the stream is strong, and the water deep !'
" Bishop Hatto fearfully hasten- d away,
And he cross' d thft Shlae without delay,
And reach'd Ilia tower, and barrM with care
All the windows, doors, and loop-holes there.
" He laid him down, and closed his eyes ;
But soon a scream made him arise ;
He started, and saw two eyes of flame
On his pillow, from whence the screaming
came.
"He listen'd and look'd: it was only the cat,
But the bishop he grew more fearful for that;
690
BiNGEN
For she sat screaming, mad with fear,
At the army of rats that were drawing near.
' For they have swum over the river so deep,
And they have climb'd the shores so steep,
And now, by thousands, up they crawl
To the holes and windows in th-j wall.
" Down on his knees the bishop fell.
And faster and faster his bends did he tell,
As louder and louder, drawing near,
The saw of their teeth without he could her.r.
"And in at the windows, and in at the door,
And through the walls by thousands the?
pour,
And down through the ceiling, and up through
the floor,
From the right and the left, from behind and
before,
From within and without, from above and b2-
low
And all at once to the bishop they go.
"They have whetted their teeth against ths
stones,
And now they pick the bishop's bones ;
They gnaw'd the flesh from every limb,
For they were sent to do judgment on him."
It is presumed that M"nttJinrm was cor-
rupted into Mouse Tower, instead of Tower
of Customs ; and some practical, unro-
mantic people pretend that Southey was
wrong, and that the tower was built two
hundred years after Bishop Hatto's death.
The River Nuhe here enters the Rhine,
and is crossed by an iron bridge. There is a
ferry across the river from Bingen to Riides-
heim. On a terrace above Riidesheim stands
a magnificent bronze statue, the " Germa*
nz'a," unveiled by the Emperor in 1883.
Bingen is situated on the right in ascend-
ingthe river, and forms the frontier between
Hesse and Prussia. Hotel : Victoria, a very
good house, directly facing the river and the
" Germania " monument.
The scenery of the neighborhood is par-
ticularly beautiful at this place. Bingen
contains 7100 inhabitants, and does consid-
erable trade in wines. It was the junction
of two Roman roads ; one to Treves, the
other to Cologne.
Back of the town rise the ruins of the
castle of Kl< >pp, which was destroyed by the
French in 1689. The ruins are entered
from the gardens of ihc White JJor.-e Hotel;
fee, 7 g. Beautiful view of the surround-
ings.
On the hill above Bingen is situated the
chapel of St. Koch, where on the 16th
of August thousands of pilgrims offer up
their devotions. On the slope below is
Hotel Hartmann, grape-cure.
[An excursion should be made from Bin-
[THE EMPIRE OF GERMANY.]
KREUZNACH.
gen to Kreuznach or Saarbruck, or through
to .Ifetz.
From Saarbruck to Metz, see Route No.
182.
Time to Saarbruck, 3 h.20 m. ; thence
to Met/, 1 li. 32 in. Fare to Saarbruck,
lirst class, 12 marks 4 g. ; second class,
(> mark- '_' sr.
I'.i-sinj; through the beautiful valley of
t!u- \'i/t", ten miles from Bingen is the
station and watering-place of
Krfuznach. Hotel, Knrhnus Hotel, with
restaurant connected with the Kurhaus.
Mr. John Barter has a private hotel,
t;o; Kurhausstrasse, highly recommended.
Kreuznach is situated in a most charming
position, and has lately become quite cele-
brated for the medicinal properties of its
waters, which are beneficial in female com-
plaints and scrofula.
The springs rise mostly in and near an
island on the Nahe, where there is a A'wr-
kaiis, with a bathing establishment, hotel
and restaurant, with accommodation for
guests at reasonable rates, assembly and
reading rooms, where some eight thousand
invalids annually gather during the season,
morning and evening, to drink the water
from the Elizabeth-Bnmnen. Here, also,
are situated the brine baths.
There is a church situated on tne isfand,
erected in 1768 to replace one of an earlier
period, some remains of which still exist ;
near which stands a statue erected to Dr.
Prieger, who died in 18C3.
On the northwest side of the town rises the
Schlossberg, with the ruined castle of Kau-
zenbery, erected by the Prince of Sponheim,
and afterward the property of the Electors
Palatine. In lfi:>2 the town was taken by
Gustavus Adolphus.
There are numerous excursions from
Kreuznach : viz., to the castles of Dissibo-
//, in 3 hours ; to the ruins of Mont-
fort, 2 hours ; and to Ebernburg, by Gatts
and J-thi.-inyraJ'enateln, in 3 hours. Also to
the salt-mines of Theodoi-shalle, one mile
from the town.
Miiitstcr-am-Stem (hotel, Kurhaus), an-
other salt-mine belonging to Prussia ; also
saline baths. At this point the h'/iciiiyrii/ii-it-
ttein, a cliff of porphyry, rises perpendicu-
larly 450 feet above the Nahe. A short
distance from this, to the west, is situated
WlNKEU
the /-:tiernbury, a castle which belonged to
the; knight-arrant Franz von Sickingen,
who was at one time so powerful that he
besieged Metz and Treves with an army of
J(). lino. The castle was the asylum for
bandits, outlaws, and fugitives; also for
many of the early Reformers. An inn is
situated in the ruins, which contains nu-
merous relics. The castle was fortified by
the French in 1689, but after the Peace of
Kyswick was dismantled.
The other towns of Staudernheim, So-
bcnihi-iin, Munziiiyen, and Oblerstein arc
small unimportant places, with absolutely
nothing to interest the traveler.]
From Rudesheim, opposite Bingen, there
is a line of railway to Biebrich, opposite
Mayencc, in 1 hour.
Geisenheim, on the left, is a town of 2500
inhabitants, distinguished by the two Goth-
ic towers which surmount its old church,
restored in 1836.
\\'inkel station, on the same side, where
Charlemagne's wine-cellars were situated,
and Oestrich, both give names to noted
wines.
To our left, on an eminence, is situated
the celebrated castle of Johannisbe ry, cel-
ebrated because the Johannisberger once
took the lead in the wines of the Rhine ;
but previous to 1867 the sequestration of
the castle from Prince Metternich for the
payment of many years' arrears of taxes
due to the state of Nassau, and which the
prince repudiated, in some degree preju-
diced the vineyard ; and the great care and
energy displayed afterward in the manage-
ment of the vineyard of Steinberg, owned
by the Duke of Nassau, caused that wine
to bring the, same price as the Johan-
nisberger. The extent of the Johannis-
berger vineyard is 38 acres ; that is, of
the first-class wine ; the yearly proceeds
amount to $40,000. This favored spot was
once the property of the Church, and also
of the Prince of Orange. Napoleon pre-
sented it to General Kellermann. After
the downfall of Napoleon it was presented
to Prince Metternich by the Emperor of
Austria. The highest price ever paid was
$5 50 per bottle on the spot, but two mon-
archs were the purchasers. The Johan-
nisbcrger and Steinberger wines are sold
ever}' year at auction in casks of 1200 or
600 litres. In good years the Prince of
691
ERBACII.
[THE EMPIRE OF GERMANY.]
MAYEXCE.
Metternich reserves several casks, which are
bottled five or six years later. These wines
are sold for from 3 to 20 florins per bottle ;
they are of equal value and merit ; the Jo-
hannisberger is distinguished for its great
freshness and bouquet, and the Steinberger
for its body, warmth, and peculiar aroma.
To visit the castle a fee of 2 marks is ex-
pected for a party, and in the cellars you
are expected to drink a bottle of wine,
costing anywhere from two to ten dollars.
Passing the island of Sandau, connected
with the left bank, and between Westpha-
lian and Rheinau, is the Mtirkbrunuen, near
which is the celebrated vineyard of Marco-
brunner, one of the finest of the Rhenish
wines.
Erbach, on the left, in front of which lies
the island of Rhtinau, the property of the
Princess Marianne of the Netherlands.
The chateau of Rheinhurdtshausen. in the
village, also belongs to that princess, and
is shown Monday, Wednesday, and Friday.
A wide path leads, in one hour, from
Erbach to the Cistercian abbey ofEbtrbach,
founded by St.Bernhard of Clairvaux in the
12th century. The refectory now contains
the wine-presses for the celebrated Stein-
berg wine, one of the most celebrated in
the Rheingau, and here the famous cabinet
wines were formerly kept. The Steinberg
vineyard comprises 60 acres, and since the
12th century has been cultivated by the
monks of Eberbach. Farther up the val-
ley is situated the noted lunatic asylum of
Eichberg.
Eltmlle, formerly the capital of the
Rheingau. Hotel, Keiseiibuch. It contains
3100 inhabitants, and is well situated in
the midst of the finest vineyards of the
Rhine. It is surrounded by numerous
handsome country residences.
It was here that the German king Giin-
ther resigned to his opponent, Charles IV.,
in 1349. There are some ruins left of the
castle built by Baldwin, archbishop of
Treves, in the 14th century, and here one
of the first printing-presses was established
in 1465.
About two miles northwest of Eltville
lies the village of Kiedrich, formerly a
place of great resort for pilgrims to the
ehurch of St. Valentine. The church of St.
Michael, built in 1440, and restored in 1858,
well deserves a visit.
A short distance from Kiedrich is the
692
celebrated vineyard of Grafenberg, one of
the best in the Rheingau.
During the season a diligence runs to
[ ScJdangenbad in one hour, and in two hours
to Schicalbach, two noted watering-places.
(See excursion from Wiesbaden to Ems.
Route No. 184.)
On the left lies Nieder-Walluff. about
| four miles from which is the famous vine-
Biebricfi, on our left (whence passengers
disembark for Wiesbaden, Frankfort, and
Homburg. To Wiesbaden, 10 minutes: and
to Frankfort, 1 h. 10 in.). Hutd de I' Europe
and Rhtinischtr Hof. The Chateau was the
former summer residence of the dukes of
Nassau previous to its sequestration by the
King of Prussia in 1866. It is a hand-
some structure, built of red sandstone.
The gardens are large, and open to the
public, and there may be seen, in a min-
iature castle, a collection of Roman an-
tiquities.
On our right, a little above Biebrich, is
Muyence, or Mainz. Principal hotel is the
D'Angleterre, facing the Rhine, and rank.
ing very high.
Mayence is the largest town in the for-
mer Grand-Duchy of Hesse-Darmstadt. It
was annexed to Prussia in 1866. It con-
tains a population of 56,000, including the
garrison, which consisted of 7000 soldiers
previous to its Prussian annexation. Its
fortifications are of great strength. Abridge
of boats, upward of sixteen hundred feet
loniT, connects the town with the suburbs
of Castel on the opposite bank of the Rhine.
A permanent railway bridge was also con-
structed in 1862 across the river to the
fortress of Muinspitse, 1200 feet long, over
which run the trains to Frankfort. The
cost was nearly one and a half million
dollars. Mayence is a city of great an-
tiquity. It was founded by Drusus 14
years B.C. It was the seat of the first
German archbishop, St. Boniface (751).
Under Charlemagne and his successors it
became the first ecclesiastical city of the
Roman Empire. In modern times it became
celebrated for the memorable siege it en-
dured, when it was successfully defended
by the French troops who garrisoned it.
The Museum is situated in the Kurfurst-
liche Schloss, and contains a small collec-
tion of paintings and Roman antiquities.
Fee, 50 pf. ; Wednesdays free.
MAYENCE.
[THE EMPIRE OF GERMANY.]
WlESBADEX
The town library contains 100,000 vol-
umes and some valuable MSS.
The Grossherzogliche Schloss was occu-
pied by Napoleon I. ; it is now inhabited
by the governor of the fortress. A barrack
and arsenal are also situated in the Schloss-
platz.
The Xeue A nlage, or Public Gardens, sit-
uated outside the walls, should be visited.
There is a lovely promenade thence to the
railway bridge, where the visitor can as-
cend one of the towers (fee, 12 kr.), and
obtain a charming view of Mayence and
the river.
In Schillerplatz stands a bronze statue
of Schiller, erected in 1862. The pillar of
the fountain was brought from the palace
of Charlemagne at Ingelheim.
The Cemetery, on the heights, contains
some fine monuments.
Among the principal edifices of May-
ence, which are of great antiquity, is the
Cathedral, a vast pile of red sandstone
buildings, begun in the 10th and finished
in the llth century; it has suffered con-
siderable damage at different times, hav-
ing been burned by the Prussians in 1783,
and used as a barrack by the French in
1813. The interior is tilled with the mon-
uments of the different Electors of May-
ence. who always presided at the election
of the emperor, and were the archbishops
and first princes of the German Empire. It
is open to 11.30 A.M., and from 2 to G P.M.
To ascend the tower, ring at the door south
of the transept ; fee, 1 mark.
The church of St. Etienne, a Gothic edi-
fice dating from the 14th century, stands
in an elevated position above the city. It
suffered by an explosion of gunpowder in
1857, but has been restored, and contains
some fine monuments of the Middle Ages.
The Citadel occupies the position of an
ancient Roman camp, and here the traveler
may ascend the Tower of Druxus, who was
son-in-law of Augustus, and founder of the
city ; this tower is supposed to be his tomb.
A soldier will accompany the visitor (fee,
a half-mark.
The site formerly occupied by the dwell-
ing-house of Gutenberg, the inventor of
printing, a native of the town, will be seen
with interest. An excellent statue, mod-
eled by Thorwaldsen, stands in an open
area opposite the theatre.
Mainz to Paris, 13 h., via Saarbruck,
16f h., rift Cologne (sleeping-car); fare,
67 marks, I otli ways; to London, via Co-
logne and Ostende ; time, 12J h. ; fare, 82
marks 40 pf. ; to Cologne, Coblcntz, Wiesba-
den, Frankfort, Heidelberg, etc., see p. 695.
Wiesbaden. Hotels: Rose (t Bains, Hotel
et Villa Xassau, four Seasons, and Rhine.
Rose, a splendid large establishment, sur-
rounded by its own gardens, opposite the
Kursaal and promenade, with an elegant
bath-house. The Hotel et Villa Nassau, in
a beautiful position opposite the Kurhaus,
promenade, etc., enjoy a European reputa-
tion ; spring and electric baths in the house.
Goetz Brothers are the proprietors. Hotel
Four Seasons, a first-class house, on the cor-
ner of the promenade and the square facing
the Kursaal (one of the finest positions), has
a large bath-establishment, and is ably man-
aged by Mr. Zais. The Rhine is a favorite,
first-class house, close to the promenade and
the station.
On the Heidenberg, north of the town, re-
mains of a Roman fortress were discovered
in 1838, with fragments of walls and towers,
and many implements of war, now in the mu-
seum. According to the inscriptions, the
camp was garrisoned by the 14th and 22d
legions.
This watering-place, by virtue of its salu-
brious climate and the curative properties of
its mineral springs, has long been a house-
hold word with Englishmen and Americans.
Wiesbaden lies in one of the side valleys
of the Rheingau, the fairest portion of the
Rhine, and is some 360 feet above the level
of the sea. It is almost entirely sheltered
from the colder winds, the temperature of
the entire neighborhood being considerably
higher, and with fewer atmospheric changes
than other places in the same latitude. For
these reasons Wiesbaden is gaining in favor
a< a winter residence. Its environs are un-
surpassed for delightful walks and carriage
drives. In summer the gardens attached to
the Kursaal, and the park, which extends as
far as the village of Sonnenberg, with its
picturesque ruins, abound in beautiful spots,
rare trees, and flowers. Here, also, concerts
by the celebrated municipal orchestra and
military bands, as well as many festivities
and entertainments, take place.
Including the great Kochbrunnen (boil-
ing spring), Wiesbaden has no less than 23
hot springs, yielding 61 cubic feet of water
per minute. The diseases which, by the in-
693
WIESBADEN.
[THE EMPIRE OF GERMANY.]
WIESBADEN.
ternal, external, or joint use of the water,may! the choir from the body of the church. The
be cured, are chronic catarrh of the stomach
and intestines, rheumatism and gout, chron-
ic disturbances of the glands, diseases of the
bones, shot wounds, female diseases, ner-
vous complaints, diseases of the organs of
the chest, of the skin, etc.
There are 24 thermal bath-houses, con-
taining 900 baths, with all modern improve-
ments andcomforts, together with many oth-
er establishments where electric, Roman,
sarcophagus of the duchess is in white mar-
ble, the effigy being surrounded by statu-
ettes of the twelve Apostles ; at the corners
are figures of Faith, Hope, Charity, and
Immortality. The custodian expects a fee
of 1 florin; he lives near by.
The view from the chapel is beautiful.
On the opposite slope lies the Centetrrij,
which contains some handsome monuments,
among which is that of Gen. von Baring,
Irish, Russian, Turkish, vapor, and all other who defended La llaye Sainte at Waterloo,
varieties of baths can be had. There are An excursion should be made to Platte,
milk, whey, cold-water, and grape-cure es-
tablishments, the latter directly managed by
the Municipal Cure Administration, which
also superintenJs the bottling of the Koch-
brunnen water and the manufacture of Koch-
brunnen lozenges, salt, soap, etc., for use
abroad.
Wiesbaden has an English church, Eng-
lish and German resident physicians, excel-
lent schools, theatre royal, with opera and
ballet, English and German circulating li-
braries, cricket and base-ball grounds, pis-
a hunting-residence of the former duke.
Times and fares for 1884 between Cologne,
Frankfort, Col'eniz, Ems, Bingerbriick,
Kreuznach, Mayence, Wiesbaden, Schwal-
buch, Schlangenbad, Hamburg, Frankfort,
Darmstadt, Mannheim, Heidelberg, Carls-
ruhe, Baden-Baden, Wildbad, and Strasburg :
Cologne to Coblentz, 1 h. 53 m., 7 marks
30 pf. ; to Bonn, 34 m., 2i marks ; to Ems
(via Coblentz, change cars), 2 h. 51 m., 9
marks 70 pf. ; to Wiesbaden (via Bonn, Nie-
tol shooting-gallery, riding-school, fishing, derlahnstein, and Rudesheim), 5 h. 10 m.,
hunting, museum, picture-galleries, etc. |15 marks 70 pf. ; to Wiesbaden (VM Cob-
The Kursaal establishments, patronized
extensively, are fitted up in the most luxu-
rious manner, and contain, besides tlie large
lentz, Niederlahnstein, and Rudesheim, ex-
press route), 4 h. 49 m., 15 marks 70 pf. ;
to Wiesbaden (via Coblentz, Mayence, and
concert-hall, a restaurant, with beer saloon j Castel, crossing the Rhine by ferry at May-
adjoining, conversation, lecture, chess, and ence, most agreeable route*), oh. 19m., 15 inks.
extensive reading rooms, the latter with "0 pf. ; to Bingerbriick (via Coblentz), 4 h.
above 300 periodicals of all countries. 30 m., 12 marks ; to Maytnce (via Coblentz
Among the sights is the Museum, in the and Bingerbriick, express route), 3 h. 52 m.,
Schlosschen, Moorish palace of Prince Nich- 14 marks 90 pf. ; to Mayence. (via Coblentz,
olas, Ministerial Buildings, in Florentine Niederlahnstein, Mosbach, and Castel,
style, and Protestant and Catholic churches. \ crossing river as above), 5 h. 13 m., 15 marks
In the Louisenplatz stands an Obelisk, \ 80 pf. ; to Frankfort (via Bonn, Nieder-
erected to the memory of the soldiers of lahnstein, and Wiesbaden), 5 h. 2 m., 18
Nassau who fell in the battle of Waterloo. 1 marks 80 pf. ; to Frankfort (mail route via
Wiesbaden is noted for the number and i Coblentz, Bingerbruck, and Mayence, a
good quality of its educational establish-
ments.
About one mile north of the town stands
beautiful ride along the Rhine), 4 h. 45 m.,
18 marks 30 pf. ; to Frankfort (via Cob-
lentz, Niederlahnstein, and Wiesbaden), 5
the eminence of Neroberg (so called from ' h. 40 m., 19 marks 30 pf. ; to Kreuznach
the tradition that the Emperor Nero here (via Bingerbruck), 4 h. 2 m., 13 marks 30
built a palace), on which is situated the ' pf. : to Strasburg (via Bingerbruck and
beautiful Russian Chapel, erected by the Weissenburg), 7 h. 49 m.. 34 marks 70 pf. ;
Duke of Nassau as a mausoleum for his ' to Heidelberg (via Mayence and Darm-
wife, the Duchess Elizabeth Micbailowna, stadt), f>| h. (1 h. 20 m. from Darmstadt),
a Russian princess. It is erected in the 24 marks 30 pf. ; to Baden-Baden (via
form of a Greek cross, surmounted by a Mayence, Darmstadt, and Cos Junction),
large gilded dome, this last being surround- 9J h., 32 marks 90 pf.
ed by four smaller ones. The interior is
of solid marble ; a rich screen separates
694
Coblentz to Ems, via Niederlahnstein
Junction, 29 m., 2 marks 10 pf. ; to Wict-
S< 1 1 \\AI.BACH.
[THE EMPIRE OF GERMANY.]
NASSAU.
badm, 3 h. 21 m., 7 marks 60 pf. ; to Wies-
baden, via Mayencc, :f li. 21 in., S marks 90
pf. ; to M ni/i ''"'< ', ' ' ' Bingerbriick, 1 li. 51
in., 7 marks 110 pf. ; to Frankfort, express,
via Mayenee, '_' li. II m., 11 marks ;>0 pf. ;
to Frankfurt, fin Niederlalinslein and
Wieabftden, :! li. :>:> m., 12 marks.
liiiiyerbriickto Maycnce, 40 m., '_' inks. 'JO
pf. ;to ( 'oblentz, 1 h. 10 in., 4 inks. 70 pf. ;
to Frankfort, ria Mayence, 1 b. 33 in., 6 inks.
30 pf. ; to Kreuznach, 36 m., 1 mk. 30 pf.
Mayence (Mainz) to Wiesbaden, 38 in., 1
mark (crossing the Rhine by ferry to Castel
in 12 in. incl. stop.); to Frankfort, 45 in., 3
mks. 25 pf. ; to Darmstadt, 55 m., 3 niks. 40
pf. ; to Heidelberg, 2 h. 9 m., 9 mks. 20 pf.
Ems to Cologne, Coblentz, Frankfort, etc.,
see those places, above and below.
Wiesbaden to Cologne, Coblentz, Mayence,
and Frankfort, see above and below.
Sfluralbach and Schlungenbad to Ems,
Coblentz, or Wiesbaden, see description.
Frankfort to Hamburg (see description of
Homburg) ; to \\"n>xba<l<'ii. r'ct ( 'astt:l,59 m.,
3 marks 80 pf. ; to Colof/ne, Coblentz, Mni/-
encc, and litwjerbruck (see those places
above); to Darmstadt, Mannluiin, and
Heidelberg (see description of those places) ;
to Strasburg, 5 h. 32 in., 21 marks 80 pf. ;
to Basle, 8 h. 15 m., 30 marks 80 pf.
H> iddberg and Darmstadt, see description.
Baden-Baden to Ileiddberg, 2 h. 5 m., 8
marks (>5 pf.
1 ( "ildbad to Stuttgart. 2 h. 8 m., 7 mks. 95 pf.
[By no means fail to visit the lovely water-
ing-places of Schwulbach and Ems. Engage
a carriage, at any of the hotels, for Schwal-
bach, and spend a few days there ; then
take another to Ems, via Nassau. If not
visiting Schlanrjenbad medicinal] y, make an
excursion from Schwalliach to that place.
\\'<>'$btiden to Schwalbach, by diligence,
2 h. 35 m. ; fare, 1 mark 90 pf., going by
the high-road leading to Ems and Coblentz.
Hotel A lleesaal (de la Promenaded) and Vil-
la Grebert, in a beautiful position close to
the Kurhaus, can be highly recommended.
SefttOO&acA, in a lovely situation on the
northern slope oftheTaunus mountains, in
a fresh and invigorating climate, contains
a population of 3000 souls ; its waters, sur-
passing all other German chalybeates, the
richest in carbonic acid, and disposed in
most excellent bath-houses, are considered
very efficacious in cftlorotif, poverty of the
blood.and diseases connected with them, ner-
vous affections, women's diseases, muscular
weakness, affections of the mucous mem-
branes (genital catarrh and urinary organs),
etc.
Close to the bath-house are the two drink-
ing-springs, thaMahlbrunnen and Wnnbrun-
nen (aqua, vinaria of the Romans), and far-
ther up the valley is the Paulinenbrunnen,
The season lasts from May 10 far into Oc-
tober. A season drinking-ticket costs 2
ink., and the iar-tax ticket, entitling the
holder to enjoyment of reading-rooms, re-
unions, concerts, etc., at the Kursaal, 10 ink.
The band alternates at the Stahl- and Wein-
brunnen in the daytime, and in the hand-
some Kursaal in the evening. Excursion?,
fishing, and shooting in the environs. All
inquiries should be made of the Kur-ver-
icallung. Dr. Grebert is a good physician.
About half an hour from Schwalbach are
the ruins ofAdotp/iseck, a castle built by the
Emperor Adolph for a favorite mistress.
Schwalbach to Eltville (R'y Sta.), by dili-
gence, 10 miles , 2 h. ; fare, 1 mark 50 pf. ;
to Hahnstiitten (R'y Sta.), 16 miles ; 2 h.
50 m. ; fare, 2-J marks ; to Schlangenbad,
5 miles ; 1J h. ; fare, 70 pf. ; to Wiesbaden,
12 miles ; 2 h. ; fare, 1 mark 90 pf.
Wiesbaden to Schlangenba'1, 17 miles ; 4 h.;
fare, 2 marks 16 pf.
Schwalbach to Paris, via Eltville (R'y
Sta.), Rudesheim, and Cologne ; time, 18
h. ; fare, 64 marks 80 pf.
Sc/ilangenbad, a beautiful summer resi-
dence, in a sequestered valley, with charm-
ing environs. Hotel Victoria and Nassauer
f/of, two very good houses. The baths, cel-
ebrated for two centuries, are considered
most efficacious in nervous and women's
diseases, gout and rheumatism, scrofula,
diseases of the skin and complexion, etc.
There is a cow's and goat's milk cure, and
miles of dustless walks. There are three
bath-houses, the newest, the Xetdiau, being
the finest, and containing the reunion, card,
and billiard rooms. Between (lie Neuban
'and the Xassauer Hof is the elegant new
Trinkhalle colonnade.
Sir Francis Head's "Bubbles from the
Brunnens " can be read with interest.
Schlnnge'tbad to Paris. Time, 17 h. 20
m. ; farej G4 marks (45 m. dil. to Eltville).
Nassau may either be reached in 12 m.
by rail from Ems (fare 60 pf.), or by private
carriage from Schwalbach.
This town contains nothing of special
695
EMS.
[THE EMPIRE OF GERMANY.^
DARMSTADT.
importance, except the ruins of the castle
of Nassau, the cradle of that important
family. It is situated on a height above
the town. It was built by a Count of Lau-
fenburg in 1100. Some centuries later the
family divided : the elder branch remained
dukes of Nassau, while the younger is rep-
resented by the royal house of Holland.
The River Lahn is here crossed by a
handsome suspension bridge.
Nassau was the birthplace of Baron von
Stein, the noted Prussian minister whom
Napoleon alludes to in his "Memoires,"
and who was compelled to reside in Russia
during the existence of the empire.
Ems is beautifull}' situated on the right |
bank of the Lahn. Hotels: d'Angleterre, \
large and first-class, and Quntre Tours,
Very aristocratic. Although Ems cannot
compete with Baden-Baden or Wiesbaden
in the magnificence of its Kursaal, the
company is considered much more select I
than at either of the other watering-places. I
The season commences in May and ends in |
September. The excursions are numerous,
and the daily routine about the same as at
Wiesbaden. Public baths are numerous. >
The town is beautifully situated on both
sides of the River Lahn, surrounded by j
high rocks covered with trees and vines,
and the air one breathes is pure and balmy.
The sources of the water are numerous,
and are all alkaline. The water is limpid
and without smell, and is considered effica-
cious in all diseases of females, and in cases
of catarrh and liver and pulmonary com-
plaints, and, what is of great importance
to Americans, sovereign in cases of dys-
pepsia. These waters were known and
highly prized in the time of the Romans
for the cure of sterility; and it has been
stated that to the use of them Agrippina,
wife of Germanicus, was indebted for her
son, Caligula a questionable compliment
for the waters.
The attractions of Ems consist princi-
pally in its handsome promenades and ex-
cursions, which are numerous.
The baths are taken at three principal
establishments the old Kurhaus, Quatre-
Tours, and Newbadhaus. The prices are
2 marks and 3 marks ; douche baths, 1J
marks. Tickets for a certain number of
baths are usually purchased in advance.
There are five principal sources Krahn-
ehen, Furstenbrunnen, Kesselbrunnen, Ntu-
696
quelle, and Bubenquelle ; this last is the one
used in case of sterility. The principal
used by drinkers is the Keeselbrunnen,
116 Fahrenheit.
The Kursaal is a very handsome build-
ing. It contains a cafe, the former play-
rooms, reading-rooms, and a beautiful ball-
room, with marble columns, where balls
are given weekly. A handsome covered
hall connects the Kursaal with the source
of the Kesselbrunnen.
The number of visitors is about 20,000,
and the permanent population 8000.
Myriads of donkeys stand on both sides
of the river, to assist in making the nu-
merous excursions in the vicinity.
It was on the promenade at Ems that
the Emperor William gave the slight to
Benedetti which led to the Franco-German
war of 1870.
Frankfort, described in Route No. 1 62.
Frankfort to l)arni.<tndi, ;(' i in. ; fare,l mk.
90 pf. ; to other places, see p. 694 and 627.
Darmstadt, capital of the duchy, and the
residence of the Grand-Duke of Hesse, con-
tains 39,650 inhabitants. Principal hotel,
Darmstadter Ilof. The main object of at-
traction is the Ducal Palace, which con-
tains the court library (over 450,000 vol-
umes), open every day from 9 to 12 and
from 2 to 4 ; a collection of rare arms and
costumes, open Thursday and Friday from
11 to 1, and Sunday 10 to 1 ; and a fine
gallery of paintings, some 700 in all, situ-
ated on the first floor. Among them are a
Raphael, St. John in the Wilderness ; a
Sleeping Venus, by Titian: a David and
Nathan, by Domenichino ; Rembrandt, a
portrait of his second wife ; the Interior of
a Stable, by Paul Potter ; a Virgin and
Child, by Holbein ; Diana returning from
the Chase, by Rubens; A Hunt, by Sny-
ders; several Dutch landscapes by Ach it-
bach. The second floor contains the Ro-
man antiquities, engravings, shells, miner-
als, and fossils. These last are most val-
uable specimens, found in the bed of the
Rhine.
The Catholic church and Maison d' Ex-
ercise are also worthy of a visit. Notice
at the end of the Rue du Rhin a fine statue
of the Grand-Duke Louis, to whom Darm-
stadt owes its importance. It stands liio
feet high, and was erected in 1844. The
model was furnished by Schwanthaler. The
view from the summit is superb ; fee, 1 mk.
[THE EMPIRE OF GERMANY.]
MANNHEIM.
The gardens of the palace are hand- Starkenburg. It was built by the abbots
sonielv laid out. of Lorsch, and became liter the most ]MMV-
Thcre i> a small palace built by < v )ueen erful stronghold of the Archbishop of May.
Victoria of England for her daughter, the em e. It was taken by the Spaniards in
- Alice, who married Prince Louis 1H21. and was twice besieged by Turenne.
of Hesse.
About one mile from the town are tho
ducal preserves, where wild boars are kept
for the ducal chase.
Darmstadt to Mannheim.
The road now crosses the Laden fron-
tier.
At Friedrichsfeld junction travelers vis-
iting Mannheim change cars, those to Hei-
Time, 1 h. 20 i del berg continue, thirteen and fourteen
in. ; fare, 5 marks 20 pf. ; to Heidelberg ; minutes respectively,
time, 1 h. 18 m. ; fare, 5 marks 10 pf. (both j Mannheim, situated at the confluence of
via Friedrichsfeld Jn.) ; to Erbach; time. 1 the Rhine and Neckar, is a place of the
h. 53 m. ; fare, 4 marks 10 pf. (See p. 694.) greatest commercial importance in the
Erbach is a small town prettily situated i Duchy of Baden. It contains 53,454 in-
in the Miimling valley, and contains 2400 habitants. Principal hotel, de I Europe.
inhabitants. The only object of attraction
it presents is its modern-built castle of the
Counts of Erbach, built on the site of an an-
cient castle. The castle contains a most im-
portant collection of objects of interest be-
The town is comparatively modern, having
been founded in 1GOG by Frederick IV.,
Elector Palatine. It owes its importance,
however, to the Elector Charles Philip,
who in 1721 left Heidelberg to make
longing to the Middle Ages fire-arms and Mannheim his capital. On account of its
armor. Of the last are two suits of great once strong fortifications it suffered much
interest, those of Wallenstein and Gustavus in sieges and bombardments. It was razed
Adolphus. There is also the armor of to the ground by the French in 1689, also
Thomele, the dwarf of the Archduke Fer- during the Thirty - years' War; by the
dinand of Austria, which he wore on state French again in 1794, and by the Austri-
occasions, and in which he was once served ans in 1795. The modern town is built.
in a pie to a company at dinner. In the like Philadelphia, in regular squares.
chapel is the sarcophagus of Eginhard, the The principal building is the Schloss,
friend and biographer of Charlemagne. constructed between 1720 and 1730, but
Diligence to Hirschhorn K'y St.,3 h.37 m.; partially destroyed by fire in 1795. It was
fare, 3 ink.; to Xeckargemund K'y St. in 6 h. erected by the Elector Charles Philip. It
In thirty minutes from Darmstadt is is partially used as a Picture-Gallery, Cubi-
situated the town of Zirinrjenberg, whence net of Xutural History, Collection of En-
excursions to the Od-inr/i'</ : then the grarii/gx and of Plaster Casts.
handsome village of Aui-rbach (hotel, ' It has a fine garden attached.
Krn< i, much frequented during the sum- The The'itre was restored in 1854, and is
HIT months on account of its mineral one of the best in Germany : here Schiller's
springs. It contains a small cat/lt-, with a first pieces were produced. The adjoining
large park, belonging to the Grand-Duke
of lli'.-se. About two miles distant are
the ruins of the castle of Auerbach, de-
stroyed by Turenne in 1G74.
Branch railway to Worms, passing the
town of Lorsch, which possesses a church
built in 1130, and which contains the re-
mains of Ixntis the German, founder of the
Gorman Empire.
Passing Bensheim, a small
town of 4900 inhabitants, formerly a pos-
session of the Electors of Mayence,
Ue/tjiei/hcim is readied. This town con-
tains a church founded by Charlemagne.
Schillcrplatz contains a fine statue of the
poet. To the right and left are two other
statues: one to the celebrated actor Jffland,
who died 1814. and who made his debut in
Mannheim, and the other to Dnhlberg, the
manager of the theatre up to 1803 : lie was
one of the grand-duke's ministers, and
brother of the prince primate.
The Church of the Jesuits is a handsome
animated building, richly decorated.
A monument has been erected by the
citizens to the Elector Charles Theodore,
who died in 1799.
The town is connected with iM&oigtknfm
On a height some distance behind the town by a new rail.vay bridge, erected in 1867,
lay be seen the ruins of the castle of j and finely ornamented.
697
HEIDELBERG.
Mannheim to Frankfort; time, 1 li. 37 m. ;
fare, 7 marks 45 pf. ; to Darmstadt ; time,
57 m. ; fare, 5 marks 20 pf. ; to Heidelberg;
time, i h. ; fare, 1 mark 80 pf. ; to Rtras-
burg; 3 hrs.,by Speyer; fare, 13 marks 70 pf.
Heidelberg. Carriages to and from ilie
station, 7 gs. one person ; each extra person
i! gs. Heidelberg, one of the principal towns
of Baden, contains 20,100 inhabitants, one
third of whom are Catholics. Principal
hotels : Prince Charles, close under the
castle walls ; splendid table and low
prices ; one of the best houses in Europe.
Railway tickets for sale in the hotel.
Victoria, in a fine position near the sta-
tion, admirably conducted and reasonable
prices; it is situated on the Anltige, the
fashionable promenade. Hotel Schrieder,
a large, fine house, connected with the sta-
tion, well managed by the proprietress,
Madame Back. Grand Hotel, a first-class
house, close to the station. The town is
pleasantly situated on the Neckar, one of
the most beautiful localities in Germany.
There is one principal street, which is
nearly two miles long, into which all the
others run. The valley in which the town
is situated is overlooked by well-wooded
hills at the back, while, the rising ground
on the opposite side of the river is covered
with rich vineyards as rav as the eye can
reach. Heidelberg owes its celebrity to its
castle, the ancient residence of the Elect-
ors Palatine, its University, which, next
to that of Prague, is the oldest in Germa-
ny, and to the many historical events
that have transpired there : pillaged three
times, bombarded five times, and twice
laid in ashes.
The Castle of Heidelberg was founded by
the Elector Rudolph in the 14th century,
and combined the double character of pal-
ace and fortress. Its styles partake of all
the successive varieties of the 14tl>, 15th,
and 16th centuries, and is highly interest-
ing for its immensity, its picturesque sit-
uation standing at an immense height
above the town and its architectural mag-
nificence. It is a solid square building,
witli towers at each end, one low and
round, the other higher and of an octagon-
al shape. It was sacked and partly burned
by the French in 1693, and struck by light-
ning in 17C4, since which time it has been
roofless. That portion called the English
palace was built by the Elector Frederick
[THE EMPIRE OF GERMANY.]
HEIDELBERG.
V. as a residence for his bride, daughter
of James I. of England. The cellars of
the castle are very extensive ; in one of
them is the celebrated Heidelberger Fass,
said to hold 283,200 bottles of wine when
full, or fsno hogsheads. It has been filled
but three times during the last hundred
years. Notice in front of it a wooden stat-
ue of the court fool Porkes, who never went
to bed sober, and always on a short allow-
ance of from 15 to 18 bottles daily. In an
adjoining cellar remains a small cask
which holds 60,000 gallons. The cellar
was formerly filled with 13 casks of this
size. From the terrace and gardens most
magnificent views may be obtained. A
path leads from the garden to the Molken-
cur in twenty minutes. It is a lovely
walk, and from the restaurant there is a
glorious view.
Near the Hotel Prince Charles we per-
ceive a very curious spectacle, viz., the
church of the Holy Ghost, which is divided
by a partition running the whole length
of the church directly through the middle,
and the two services, Catholic and Prot-
estant, are performed under the same roof.
In 1719, the Elector Palatine wishing to
deprive the Protestants of their half, the
oiti/'.-ns raised such a storm about his ears
that he was obliged to remove his court to
Mannheim. The oldest church in the town
is that of St. J'et'r; it was on the doors of
this church that Jerome of Prague nailed
his celebrated theses, challenging the
world to dispute them.
The rniversity was founded in 1386,
and is. after Vienna and Prague, the oldest
in Germany. It has a library of 200.000
volumes and 1800 valuable MSS., an ar-
chaeological institute, botanical garden, zo-
ological museum, and mineral collection.
It has at the present time about 800
students, about one quarter of whom are
"corps students," or fighting students.
There are some seven or eight different
corps, between most of whom a great
jealousy exists in regard to their fighting
abilities, which are tested every Friday
morning by duels fought with swords at
the HirvcAffOttt, a house on the opposite
side of the Neckar. The swords are very
sharp, and double edged, and are used as
sabres ; consequently the cuts are numer-
ous, but are scarcely ever mortal. When
they fight only for the honor of the corps,
HEIDELBERG.
[THE EMPIRE OF GERMANY.]
they wear caps, and have their necks and
right arms heavily bandaged. When the
light is to resent an offense or insult, the
caps arc removed, and six, seven, and
eight cuts are often given and received
during a light of lifteen minutes, the dura-
tion of all combats ; at the end of which
time the party receiving the least number
of cuts is declared the victor. Should a
serious wound prevent cither of the com-
bat ints from proceeding with the light, it
is renewed at a future day. The corps
surgeon is always in attendance, and he
decides whether a duelist is able to pro-
ceed, the flow of blood sometimes being so
great as to stop the light while the wound
is sewed up or stopped in some manner.
It is rather difficult to obtain permission
to visit the Hirsehgasse during one of
these combats. It can only be accom-
plished through a presentation to some
member of the corps. If you are stop-
ping at the Prinz Carl, Mr. Somnter, the
obliging landlord, may accomplish it for
you. Should you succeed in obtaining
entrance to this scene of fearful interest,
nothing less than a thaler should be given
to the custodian who waits on the duelists.
and keeps their swords ground sharp.
The students are very particular who is
present, as the authorities are always on
the alert to take them in the act. They,
however, do not seem to accomplish much,
as the students have spies stationed along
the bridge and shore to signalize the ap-
proach of an interfering part}-. During an
entire summer the author spent in Heidel-
berg, visiting the Hirsehgasse nearly ev-
ery Friday, he never saw a government of-
ficer on the ground.
An excursion to the Kdnigsstiihlis one of
the things "to do" at Heidelberg: it is
the highest point of the district, and may
be reached in 1 h. 15 m. You here obtain
a most extended view of the valley of the
Neckar, the Rhine, Odenwald, the Hardt
Mountains, and the Black Forest. A don-
key there and back costs 2 fl. SO kr.
An excursion should also be made to the
\\'<>'f.tbrunmn (only two miles), where the
Enchantress Jetta was torn in pieces by a
wolf. The situation of the inn is very "ro-
mantic ; the trout, which are kept in ponds,
are of immense size, and are verv linelv
served up by the landlord of the inn.
A visit should be made to the handsome
BADEN.
gardens of Schiretzinyen, distance about six
miles ; the ridi: is a most charming one.
On the right bank of the Neckar there is
a most agreeable walk, called the Philoso-
jikemreff (Philosopher's walk\ from where
th'-re is a most magnificent view of the
Rhine valley, the Castle, etc.
Hti'Mberg to Paris, via Strasburg. Time,
15 h. 56 m. ; fare, G3 marks; to Basle;
time, 5J h. ; fare, 23 marks.
llei'lelberg to Carlsruhe. Time, 1 h. 5 m. ;
fare, 5 marks 5 pf. ; to Stuttgart, via Bruch-
sal ; time, 2 h. 38 m. ; fare, 10i marks.
Heidelberg to Frankfurt. Time, 1 h. 47
m. ; fare, 7 marks 35 pf.
Htidelberg to Baden-Baden. Time, 2 h.
8 m. ; fare, 8 marks 65 pf.
Passing Bruchsul station, where travel-
ers to Stuttgart. Munich, or Vienna change
cars (see Route No. 173), we reach
Dmiach (Hotel. Curhburg), formerly the
residence and capital of the Margraves of
Baden Durlach. From the distance may
be >e:-n the Toirer of '1 hnrmberg, the cradle
of the ducal fatnilv of Baden.
THE GRAND-DUCHY OF BADEN.
Baden is a narrow strip of land 200 miles
long, with nearly an average of 25 miles
wide, or containing 5 ( J66 square miles. Its
territory extends along the eastern bank
of the Rhine across the lower course of
the Neckar. In picturesque beauty and in
productiveness Baden is the Garden of Ger-
many. The Black Forest, like the back-
bone of a fish, extends through its entire
length. The Feldberg is the highest point
of the ridge, 4G75 feet above the level of
the sea. The Rhine flows along the south-
ern and western frontiers, and is its chief
river. In the eastern slopes of the Black
Forest the Danube takes its rise.
Baden is entirely agricultural ; its vine-
yards are of large extent, and its orchards
numerous. From its cherries is produced
the delicious liquor Kirschwasser. Its min-
erals are numerous, and it is particularly
rich in mineral waters.
Baden contains a population of 1,461,-
562, two thirds of whom are. Catholics.
Its annii:il receipts and expenses amount
to C9,OiMi.()()0 marks >17, 250,000, and its
total debt to J.JO.IMHMIOII marks -$62,500,-
000. The army forms the principal part
of the 14th German army corps.
699
CAKLSRCHE.
[THE EMPIRE OF GERMANY.]
BADEN-BADEN.
Carlsruhe, one of the most attractive
capitals in situation and appearance, lies a
few miles from the east bank of the Rhine,
and contains 38,6*2 inhabitants. Princi-
pal hotels, Erbprinz and Englischer Hof.
The plan of the city is very much like
Washington the Ducal Palace, a building
of considerable extent, being in the posi-
tion of the Capitol, the main streets radi-
ating in all directions. The streets are
wide and well-paved, and many of the
houses very handsome. In the street lead-
ing from the station to the palace there is
a monument erected to the Grand-Duke
Karl, who died in 1818, and also one to the
Margrave Charles William, founder of the
town. There is also in the court-yard of
the palace a bronze statue by Schwanthaler.
The palace, erected in 1754, contains the
Museum of Natural History in its east wing ;
also the Court Library, with 70,000 volumes.
The Parliament meets here, and the debates
are open to the public : they usually com-
mence in November. In the palace garden
a monument has been erected to the poet
Jlebel. To the left of the entrance of the
garden is a long glass gallery, or Wintergar-
ten, 420 feet long, with conservatories, bo-
tanical gardens, etc., all open to the public.
Near the Botanical Gardens stands the
Kunsthalle, built of gray sandstone and
decorated with frescoes. It contains a
collection of paintings, free to the public
on Sundays and Wednesdays from 11 to 1
and 2 to 4 ; on other days a fee of 1 mark.
Lessing, the celebrated painter, is at pres-
ent (1876) director. The modern pictures
are very good ; the old masters indifferent.
There is a catalogue for sale, 1^- marks.
The Polytechnic School numbers 800 pu-
pils, and is quite celebrated.
One of the most interesting places of
Carlsruhe is Friedrichsplatz, surrounded
with new buildings ; in the southern part
is the Vereinigte Sammlungen, or united col-
lections. The central part of the building
resembles an arch of triumph. The build-
ing is by Bergmuller, erected in 1874.
The Catholic church is built in the form
of a pantheon.
Rastadt, the ancient residence of the last
margraves of Baden-Baden, is situated on
tlie Murg, and is a fortress of the empire.
It contains 12,000 inhabitants. Hotel, Post.
The place is so dull that the last time the
author visited it he saw but one man in the
700
streets, and he was moving towards the
station with a valise in his hand ! It con-
tains a large palace, of red sandstone, sur-
mounted by a gilded statue of Jupiter. In
a room of this palace, in 1714, Prince Eu-
gene and Marshal Villars signed a treaty
of peace between France and Germany.
From 1797 to 1799 a congress was held
here to arrange the differences between
France and Germany. Two of the French
envoys, Roberyot and Bonnier, were assas-
sinated at the gates of the town, when the
conference was broken off.
At the station Oos a branch line leads
in fifteen minutes to the most celebrated
watering-place in the wo*ld,
BADEN-BADEN,
situated at the northwestern extremity
of the Black Forest, surrounded by lux-
uriant pine -woods, in the lovely valley
of the Oos. Sheltered on the north, east,
and south by a high range of hills i. e.
to the north, the Haardtberg (377 metres
high), Schlossberg (565 metres), Grosse
Staufen (672 metres), Kleine Staufen (625
metres) ; to the east, the Steinberg (678 me-
tres), Obersterberg (565 metres), Kuchen-
berg and Hummelsberg (534 metres); and
to the south, the Fremersberg (526 metres),
Yherg (517 metres), Korbmattenkopf (519
metres), Wurzgartenkopf (481 metres), and
Leissberg (420 metres) the town, com-
prising a population of about 12,000 inhab-
itants, and visited every year by nearly
50,000 people, is built in the form of ter-
races, on the slopes of the Schlossberg,
surrounded by a garland of sumptuous vil-
las in the midst of a highly luxuriant veg-
etation, favored by the most advantageous
climatic conditions, by means of which the
whole of its environs are formed into one
immense and lovely garden the "Garden
of Germany." The town lies at an eleva-
tion of 210 metres above the level of the
sea; its longitude is 5 54' east of Paris,
and latitude 48 46', with a mean annual
temperature of 8.9 Cent., a mean atmos-
pheric pressure of 743.70, vaporic tension
of 7.5, and a relative annual humidity of
79; thus making it the most preferred cli-
matic sojourn of Southern Germany, which,
as to advantages of climate, equals many
other places lying farther south and on the
other side of the Alps.
The principal hotels are liotd de FEu-
BADEN-BADEN.
[1 UK KMNKi: ()F (il.II.M. \.\Y.j
BADEN-BADEN.
rope, Hittel Victoria, Hotel d'l/oll nxl- .
l/i'i/il tic In C'ir de Bade, and Hold >le
Russie, l/uttl Stephanie, and Hotel Belltvue. j
There arc no better houses than these in
Germany. There are several other hotels,
whose prices are a shade lower, but they
are otherwise inferior.
Here the price of every thing is fixed bj'
government, and travelers are better pro-
tected from extortion than in almost any
other part of Europe. It is hardly ever
necessary to drive a bargain for any thing.
The price of carriage, 15 minutes, 70 pf.;
three or four persons, 1 in. ; half an hour,
1 m. 5 pf. or 1 m. 40 pf.; one hour, 1 m.
70 pf. or '1 in. 15 pf. ; donkey, half a day,
2 m. 50 pf. ; one day, 4 m.
liadcn-Badun is the annual resort of
idlers, pleasure-seekers, and invalids from
all parts of the world. Its springs have
bi-cn long and favorably known. even in
tin; times of the Komans, and the new
palace, now belonging to the Grand-duke,
occupies the site of a Roman villa and
baths. The waters of the springs are
warm, the principal one having a temper-
ature of 153 Fahrenheit ; the taste is salt-
ish, and, when drank as it issues from the
spring, much resembles weak broth; it is
very clear, but has a peculiarly disagree-
able smell. The quality is saline, with a
mixture of muriatic and carbonic acid, and
small portions of silex and oxyd of iron.
The hot springs are 13 in number, and the
portion of the town where they issue goes
by the name of " Hell."
The new Grand-ducal Bathing Estab-
lishment, named t'ri'^h ri<- Bath*, is a model
institution, and lias no equal in any other
watering-place, or even in any large city
of Europe, as regards elegance and perfec-
tion. On the southern slope of the Schloss-
bcrg (Castle Hill), the three-storied edifice
rises up in the form of terraces, with its
back leaning directly against the region
whence the hot springs issue forth. In this
magnificent structure, both as regards its
exterior and interior, all the requirements
of comfort, and more especially the latest
progress and improvements of balneothera-
py. have been brought into use and exe-
cution, in order that the healing properties
of these old-renowned, rich mineral springs
should come into full and general use.
The Frederic Baths contain the follow-
ing balneotberapeutk a rran foments of spe-
Y..I-. II. H
cial interot : Common tub-baths; large
hip-baths supplied with mineral water, with
a continual stream ( ! \ 'ildbader) ; an electric
bath ; rooms for inhaling the pulverized
thermal water; baths for the cold-water
treatment and cold shower-baths; vapor-
baths and hot-air-baths, both for several
persons at once ; swimming-baths of dif-
ferent degrees of temperature ; vapor-baths
for single persons or for two together, and
vapor-baths in boxes. Douches of every
description and temperature are to be found
at the disposal of bathers, viz. : A monster
shower douche, with high-pressure, of 55
Fahr. ; upward shower and jet douches,
77 Fahr. ; one shower and one jet douche,
73 Fahr. ; one side douche, 73 Fahr. ; one
Scotch douche, with jets of alternating cold
water, 55 Fahr., and hot of 100 Fahr.;
one Kapellen douche (general douche from
all sides), 64 Fahr. ; one cold hip-bath, 55
Fahr. ; and one tepid hip-bath, 73 Fahr.
The douche apparatus is in most cases pro-
vided with a contrivance for the purpose
of varying the temperature, by special reg-
ulating water-cocks, according to liking.
The plan for the construction of the
Frederic Baths was designed by and exe-
cuted under the superintendence of the
Grand-ducal superintendent of buildings,
Mr. Dernfeld, who, in company with the
j late Dr. Freeh, had visited the most fre-
I quented watering-places of Germany and
, France, and inspected the most prominent
bathing establishments of Vienna, Buda-
Pesth, and Berlin, and was thus enabled
, to bring into bearing his much enriched
experience on that point.
The introduction of public gambling-
tables had given to this watering-place a
falsely directed impulse, and in some meas-
ure had repressed and forced, as it were,
the importance and hygienic value of the
thermal springs to the background ; but
the frequentation of this watering-place
since their abolition sufficiently proves that
the celebrity of these springs is being re-
instituted in its right, and the present
model institution will essentially concur
in this object. These old -renowned hot,
alkaline, chlorate of soda, thermal springs
precious gems of the town and the whole
country must thus resume their authority
and worth under this new form and set-
ting, and bring about the conversion of the
greatest skeptics as to their hygienic value.
701
IiAUEX-BADEX.
[THE EMPIRE OF GERMANY.]
BADEX-BADEX.
May Goethe's beautiful word? written
in gold letters over the principal entrance
of the Frederic Baths be realized in thou-
sands and thousands of persons who, after
long and weary sufferings, may regain
health by the rejuvenating powers of the
thermal springs.
The Triiikhdl'c is beautifully situated on
the public walks, nearly opposite tiie Hotel
de 1'Europe. The water is convoyed here
from the spring in pipes, and visitors drink
it lietween the hours of (5i and 7^ A.M.,
promenading around: meanwhile a band
discourses most elegant music. The front
of the hall is ornamented with frescoes,
representing legends of the Black Forest.
The great and universal rendezvous,
however, is the Conversationshaus, which is
the most splendid establishment of this
kind in the world, the small Chinese
pagoda in front of which cost alone 70.000
francs. It was erected in 1859. and in-
tended as a stand for the band, which per-
forms here twice a day. The building
which is a most elegant one, with a Co-
rinthian portico includes an immense as.
sembly-room, reading-room, with a great
choice of newspapers ; coffee and billiard
rooms, open all the year ; a splendid res-
taurant, where dinners may be had a la
carte. At the other end of the building is
a theatre, and a most magnificently fur-
nished suite of apartments for assembly and
ball purposes. They are open once or
twice a week. Should there be no public
entertainment while you remain, obtain
permission from the proprietor to visit this
suite of rooms ; they are well worth seeing.
The season is at its height during July, Au-
gust, and September. Many visitors ar-
rive as early as the 1st of May, staying up
to the 1st of October, and five months can
be spent here as pleasantly as at any spot
in Europe.
The following are special attractions :
grand concerts ; symphony and quartet
soirees; special concerts by renowned art- !
ists; bals pares, reunions; children's fes- >
tivals ; splendid orchestra (48 musicians),
with solo - players, three concerts daily :
military concerts ; operas and comedies ;
ballet; fire- works and illuminations; shoot-
ing and fishing; pigeon-shooting, and grand
races.
There are also delightful and secluded
promenades, where in five minutes you
TO.'
may enjoy the solitude of the darkest
woods and the deepest glens.
Directly above the town is the new
Schloss, or palace of the grand-duke, in
which his ancestors have lived for the last
400 years, a fact that would rather relieve
it from the title of new were it not that the
old Schloss is immediately above the new,
where the ancient dukes resided previous
to the loth century. The building is re-
markable for the curious vaults and mys-
terious dungeons that are now exhibited
to the curious by the castellan.
The Parish Church contains several in-
teresting monuments. It is the burial-
place of the margraves and dukes of Ba-
den, and contains the monuments of Leo-
pold William, Louis William Frederick,
bishop of Utrecht, Marie-Victoire-Pauline,
and the Margrave Fhilihert.
To the southeast of the town we notice
the new Protestant Church. It is finely
situated on the right bank of the Kiver
Oos. It was consecrated in 1864. In the
three windows of the choir are beautiful
representations of the birth, crucifixion,
and resurrection of the Saviour. In the
four rosettes are portraits of Luther, Cal-
vin, Melanchthon, and Zwingli.
On the hill behind the Trinkhalle is the
Greek Chapel, erected at the expense of
the Russian Prince Stourdza.
The Theatre, although small, is one of
the most beautiful little gems in Europe,
and does honor to the munificence of M.
Benezet. It was constructed by M. Cou-
teau, and does the architect great credit.
A short distance from Baden-Baden is
situated the small village of JJfezheim,
which has lately obtained a European ce-
lebrity by its beautiful race- course, proba-
bly the finest in Europe. Here, during the
early days of September, the finest horses
and the elite of Europe make their appear-
ance. There are three beautiful tribunes,
one for the Grand-duke, another for mem-
bers of the jockey-clubs and representa-
tives of the press, and another, the largest,
for the use of the general public. A fine
view of the entire course may be obtained
from any of the stands. A magnificent
picture of a race-day has lately been paint-
ed by Heyrault, and engraved by Harris.
Most of the numerous characters and pa-
trons of the turf are taken from life.
Among the numerous lovely -excursions
BADEX-BADBS.
around Baden are, first, the i.ll Scklost. the
original resilience of the reigning house of
Baden, and one of the most interesting ru-
ins in (Jena. my. The view from the top,
on which there is a very line spy-glass for
the benelit (if visitors, is very grand the
town of Baden at your feet, the luxuriant
Black Forest on one side. On the other
,-iil' 1 we see the Rhine vinding through it?
lovely plain. int'-rsper.-ed \\iih ntics. towns,
and villages, the whole bordered by the
- Mountains of France. In a clear
clay the cathedral spire of Strasburg the
highest in the world is plainly visible.
There is a restaurant in the castle, and
breakfasts or dinners may be obtained.
Residents at Baden frequently make ex-
cursions for the purpose of breakfasting
here. Many improvements have been
made, such as rooms for dancing, etc.
About one mile northeast of the old cas-
tle are the ruins otElfrstfinburi/, which we
pass in making the delightful excursion to
The I-'av .rite. This lovely summer retreat
was built in 172 J by the Margravine Sibylle-
Auguste of Baden, noted for her beauty
and amours. The rooms are large and
comfortable, but ornamented in the most
singular manner. In one the walls are of
in glass, in another porcelain, in
another they arc hung with tapestry work-
ed by the margravine and her maids of hon-
or. One of the boudoirs contains 72 por-
traits of the margravine, all taken in dif-
ferent costumes. The china is very quaint
and antique. The dishes for the table are
all in imitation of some meat, fruit, or veg-
etable, such as ham, duck, woodcock, as-
paragus, cabbage, artichoke, or melon.
A short distance from the palace is the
Iltnnitage, or chapel, where the margravine
lived during Lent, in the strictest seclu-
sion, seeing no one, and repenting of sins
committed during the preceding year. In
this chapel are shown the breastplate and
belt, each armed with nails, which she wore
n.mce, besides several other articles
used for the same purpose, such as a cat-
o'-nine-tails. and iron plates armed with
sharp spikes, which she put into the heels
of her shoes. In the dining-room, seated
at the table, are three wax figures, repre-
senting Mary, Joseph, and the child Jesus.
clothed in garments made by the margra-
vine's own hands. With these figures
slie diucd overv dav. Her bedroom con-
[Tlir. KMI'IKi; OF GERMANY.]
WlLDBAD.
' tains simply a straw mat, upon which she
slept.
There are a great many other walks and
excursions which should be made, viz. :
Walks. The Lichtenthal Alley, Swigs
Chalet, Thiergarten, Leopoldshohe. Sauers-
berg, Valley of Gunzenbach, Fremersberg,
Hunting-lodge, Friesenberg, the new Cas-
tle (witli park), the Echo, Shooting-gallery,
the Ruins of the Old Castle, the Kocks, the
R tiins of Ebersteinburg, the Angel's and the
Devil's Pulpit, Tiirkenweg (Turk's-way),
the Wolfrschlucht (Wolf's Gorge), Mount
Mercury, Annaberg, Falkenhalde (Falcon's
Holt), the Convent of Lichtenthal, the Ca-
cilienberg (lit. St. Cecilia, Seelach, Korb-
rnattenfelsen, the Ruins of Yburg Castle,
the Cascade of Geroldsau, Gaisbach, the
Lichtenthal Valley (with Piseicultural Es-
tablishment), the Schmalbach Valley, etc.
Excursions. Eberstein Castle, Valley of
the Mourg, Gernsbach. Weissenbach, For-
baeli, Rothcnfels (with the Elizabeth Min-
eral Springs), the Chateau de Plaisance
(Favorite), the Forester's House of the
Plattig, the Badener Hohe and Herren-
wiese (Baden Heights and Lord's Mead-
ow), Xen weier, Steinbach and Erwin's Mon-
ument, the Buhlerthal, the Ruins of Win-
deck, Erlenbad, Achern, Mummelsee, Hor-
nisgrunde, the Valley of Oberkappel, the
Ruins of the Convent and the Cascades of
Allerheiligen, the Valley of the Rench,
Kinzig Valley, etc.
Court Photographer. The atelier of J/r.
W. Kuntzemiiller, 1 Friedrichstrasse, is to
the left of the Cvnversationshaus.
Baden-Baden to Paris, via Strasburg.
Time, 13 h. 53 m. ; fare, 56 marks 20 pf. ;
to London, via Paris ; time, 26 h. 33 m. ;
fare, 10 marks 40 pf. : to Frankfort ; time,
4 h. 5 m. ; fare, 16 marks.
WiUbad may be reached by rail from
Pforzheim (see Route No. 173). This place
has become quite celebrated for its cures
of gout and rheumatism. It contains 3000
inhabitants. Principal hotel, Klumpp, an
elegant and complete first -class house,
close to the promenade, and opposite the
Conversation-house. The town is finely
situated in the valley of the Enz, on both
sides of that river. At the end of the prin-
cipal street a magnificent Kurhaus has late-
ly been conducted, containing reading-
rooms, bath-rooms, and cafe.
703
AUSTRIA.
POPULATION.
[AUSTRIA.]
ROYAL FAMILY.
WE now enter one of the largest, most
populous, and most important of the Euro-
pean states, viz., THE EMPIKE OF AUSTRIA.
According to its recent division, the Aus-
trian Empire embraces seventeen provinces
or governments, some of which are countries
of large extent; their names and popula-
tion are as follows :
Souare
Miles.
Population.
1. Austria (Upper aud Lower)
2. Salzburg
12,208
2,788
8,785
4,053
3,902
3,052
4,183
11,109
19,953
8,602
1,988
33. son
22,196
76,S03
13,071
15,138
2,880,424
153,159
1,137,990
336,400
473,293
549,960
521,010
885,789
5,107,514
2,030,783
513,352
4,705.525
2,115,024
11,979,303
1,448,481
437,000
3. Styria
4. (Jarinthia
6. Goertz, Gradisca, Is-)
tria, and Trieste . . ) "
8. Tyrol and Vorarlberg
9. Bohemia
10. Moravia
11. Silesia
12. Galicia
13. Transylvania
14. Hungary
15. Croatia and Slavouia. . . .
16. Dalraatia
17. (Military Frontier)
Total
241,691
35,275,106
The empire is bounded on the north by
Russia, Prussia, Poland, and Saxony; on
the west by Bavaria, Switzerland, and the
kingdom of Italy ; on the south by Italy,
the Adriatic Sea, and Turkey ; and on the
east by Roumania and Russia. Its great-
est length is 860 miles, and its average
breadth 400 miles, the total area being
nearly twice the size of Great Britain and
Ireland, and one third more than the whole
of the Middle and Northern States of our
own country.
The countries brought together under the
rule of Austria comprise a greater portion
of the European continent than belongs to
any other single power excepting Russia.
They include provinces inhabited by people
of different race and language, and whose
only bond is that of political rule. The
nucleus of Austrian power is German, and
thf German provinces of the empire com-
prehend the portion of its population that
is most advanced with regard to civil and
social condition. But the German prov-
inces constitute less than a third part of
704
the entire extent of the empire ; the Hun-
garian countries form more than half of
its entire area, and include two fifths of its
population. Galicia, or Austrian Poland,
is equal to one eighth of the whole empire
as regards size, and includes more than
that proportion of its population. Previ-
ous to 1866 the Italian subjects of Austria
amounted to one eighth of the population.
The chief defect of the empire, in regard
to natural capabilities, is the limited extent
of its sea-coast. The entire range of this is
only about 500 miles, which are confined to
the shores of the Adriatic ; and even of
this, by far the greater part belongs to the
Hungarian provinces, a portion which is
only united to the empire by political ne-
cessity, and liable at any time to be dis-
severed. The entire frontier measures over
4000 miles. Most of the provinces, how-
ever, are united by peaceable means, that
is, by inheritance or treaty, and their bound-
aries are the same as when they formed in-
dependent states. The principal ports are
Trieste and Fiume, in Hungary.
IMPERIAL AND ROYAL FAMILY.
Francis Joseph I., Charles, Emperor of
Austria, Apistoiic King of Hungary, King
of Bohemia, etc., Jerusalem, etc., born Aug.
18th, 1830, married April 24th, 1854, to
The Empress Elizabeth - A melie - Eugenie,
born Dec. 24th, 1837, daughter of Maximi-
lian-Joseph, duke of Bavaria.
Children : I. Arch-duchess Gwt'fe-Louise-
Marie, born July 12th, 1856, married in Vi-
enna April 20th, 1873, to LeopoW-Maximili-
an-Joseph-Marie-Arnolphe, prince of Bava-
ria, born Feb. 9th, 1846.
II. Arch-duke jRurfofyjA-Francis-Charles-
Joseph, prince imperial of Austria, hf-ir to
the throne, prince royal of Hungary, Bohe-
mia, Jerusalem, etc., married in Vienna
May 10th, 1881, to
Arch-duchess Sttphanie-ClotiUc-'Louise-
Hermine-Marie-Charlotte, duchess of Sax-
ony, born at Lacken, May 21st, 1S04. daugh-
ter of the King of the Belgians. Leopold
II., and of the Queen Maria Henrietta, arch-
duchess of Austria.
III. Arch-duchess Marie, born April 22d,
1868.
u :
par J C-eisendorfer a r. de,MeiL&~es f
Ilarperi
sc
Books
HISTORY.
[AUSTRIA. 1
HlSTOk..
Austria proper was originally part of
the Roman provinces respectively called
Norica and Upper Pannonia. It became
part of the Roman Empire under Tiberius,
toward the year .'53 A.D. From the 5th
century onward it was invaded in turn
by the Huns, the Ostrogoths, the Boians,
the Vandals, the Langobards, and then
divided between the Bavarians and the
A van's until the time when Charlemagne
drove the Avares out of it (799), and an-
nexed it to his empire under the name of
Austria, or Eastern .March. In 928 Henry
the Falconer, king of Germany, in order
to check the incursions of the Hungarians,
made Austria a margravate. In 982 Otho
II., second Emperor of Germany, gave the
investiture of it to Leopold of Babenberg,
or Bamberg, whose descendants pi.
that province, first, with the title of Mar-
quis or Margrave (980), then with that of
Duke from 1156. On the extinction of
this family (124Gi, Austria passed into the
hands of the Emperor Frederick II. (He-
henstaufen) ; then into those of Ottocar,
king of Bohemia (1251). In 1273, Rudolph
of Hap?hurg w;is elected emperor. This
remarkable prince, the founder of the
house of Austria and first promoter of
its future greatness, was the eldest son of
Albert, Count of Hapsburg, in Switzerland,
and Landgrave of Alsace, to whom he suc-
ceeded in 1240. He joined the above-named
Ottocar in a crusade against the pagans of
Prussia (1254) ; added to his possessions the
counties of Kybtirg, Baden, and Lenzburg,
and came into such high repute for upright-
ness, courage, and ability that the cantons
of Schwyz, Uri, Unterwalden, and Zurich
placed themselves, of their own accord,
under his protection. The imperial dig-
nity was also conferred on him, as he was
considered equal to putting down the an-
archy which had been tearing the empire
to pieces ever since the downfall of the
house of Hohenstaufen. and incapable at
the same time of encroaching on the rights
of the reigning princes. Pope Gregory X.
himself, whom Rudolph had conciliated by
boto wing on him the exarchate of Ravenna
and other possessions, had sanctioned his
election. Ottocar, nevertheless, refused to
do so. Rudolph thereupon led an army
into Bohemia, and compelled him to sue
for peace (1276), which was granted only
I iy the cession of Austria, Styria, and ( ar-
niola, the investiture of these states being
by the Diet forthwith settled on Rudolph's
eldest son, Albert (1282), whose descend-
ants have continued in the possession of
them, first with the title of dukes, and from
1453 with that of archdukes ; and it thus
became the house of Austria, and obtained,
through these important acquisitions, won-
derful preponderance and power. Ottocar,
however, having the following year renew-
ed the war, was completely routed, and per-
ished in the decisive battle of Marchfeld
(1278).
Rudolph fully answered ultimately the
fond expectations of those by whom he
had been raised to the imperial throne ; for
he effectually put a stop to the tyranny and
brigandage of the nobles by destroying
their strongholds, and thus insured public
peace.
Several descendants of the house of
Hapsburg, or Austria, had, after Rudolph
and up to the election of Albert II. (1438),
occupied the imperial throne of Germany.
From the accession of this prince the dig-
nity of emperor became hereditary. To
Austria had been joined Rudolph's patri-
mony, viz., Alsace, Suabia, and the protect-
! orate of part of Switzerland (1282). But
I Albert I., who bad inherited neither the
political abilities nor the upright and hon-
orable character of his illustrious father,
having attempted to convert into sover-
eignty the rights of simple patronage, the
whole country flew to arms, and, under tho
guidance of the far-famed William Tell,
succeeded, after a three-years' struggle,
in recovering their independence.
The marriage of Maximilian with Mary
of Burgundy, daughter of Duke Charles the
Bold (1477), gave the house of Austria the
Low Countries, Artois, a large part of Bur-
gundy, with Franche-Comte ; the accession
of Charles V., grandson to Ferdinand and
Isabella of Spain, added Spain, with her im-
I mense possessions in the Old and the New
Worlds. By the partition of territory be-
I tween Charles V. and Archduke Ferdi-
! nand, his brother, the Low Countries and
' Burgundy, with its dependencies, fell to
i the lot of the Spanish branch of Austria.
' Ferdinand retained possession of the arch-
duchy of Austria with all its dependencies,
to which he added Bohemia, and Hungary
705
HlSTOBT.
[AUSTRIA.]
GoVKIQUfKNT.
through his marriage with Anno, sister of
King Louis, who was killed at the battle
of Mohacz (1526) then Moravia, Silesia,
and Lusatia. The Treaty of Westphalia
detached from Austria the last-named prov-
ince as well as Alsace : these losses were,
however, compensated by the acquisition of
Transylvania and Croatia. The t:-< atirs of
Utrecht (1713) and Kasta.lt (17H) brought
to Austria the inheritance of Charles V.,
kingof Spain, consisting of Burgundy and its
appendages, the duchy of Mantua, and the
kingdoms of Naples and Sardinia. In 1720
Austria exchanged Sardinia for Sicily ; in
1735 she ceded to the Infant Don Carlos the
Two Sicilies, and received in exchange
Parma, Placentia, and Guastalla. These
easy acquisitions, mostly brought about
through marriages, inspired some wit with
the following distich :
" liella gernnt alii ; tu, ftlix Austria, nube:
Xani ({' IK Mar.? ulii.s, dat tibi regna Venus."
In 1740, the male line of the house of
Austria having become extinct by the
death of the Emperor Charles VI., his
daughter, Maria Theresa, became Empress
of Germany, and succeeded to all the late
emperor's hereditary dominions. Her hus-
band, Francis of Lorraine, grand-duke of
Tuscany, was, after a lengthened contest,
raised to the imperial dignity (1745), under
the name of Francis I., and became the head
of the new house of Autriche - Lorraine.
Austria, at the termination of the Seven-
years' War, ceded to Frederick the Great
the best part of Silesia (1763), but obtained,
in the partition of Poland, Galicia and Lo-
domeria, to which was added Bukowina,
ceded by Turkey in 1777.
It is unnecessary to attempt any sketch
of the fluctuations of the Austrian power
during the eventful period that has elapsed
since the breaking out of the French Rev-
olution in 1789. At certain stages of her
great struggle with France, Austria seem-
ed to be depressed to the rank of a second-
rate power. But the insatiable ambition
of Napoleon effecting his downfall, Austria
was left at the end of the contest as pow-
erful as over, the loss of the Low Countries
being fully compensated by her acquisi-
tions in Italy and elsewhere.
In 1804 Francis assumed the title of he-
reditary Emperor of Austria, and on the
Cth of August, 1806, renounced the title of
706
Emperor of Germany. The latter event
had been preceded by the formation of the
Confederation of the Rhine, and the entire
dissolution of the old Germanic Confedera-
tion. His son, Ferdinand I., succeeded
him in March, 1835, and he was succeeded
by the present emperor, Francis Joseph,
born Aug. 18, 1830, ascended the throne
Dec. 2, 1848.
The government of Austria is an hered-
itary and almost absolute monarchy, in
which the chief legislative as well as the
executive power is in the hands of the Em-
peror. Nearly three fourths of the popu-
lation cf Austria are the followers of the
Roman Catholic Church. Next in num-
bers are the members of the Greek Church,
who are most numerous in Transylvania,
Southern Hungary, Slavonia, Croatia, and
Galicia. Members of the various Protest-
ant churches are found chiefly in Hun-
gary and Transylvania ; in these countries,
however, as in the bulk of the empire, the
people are Roman Catholics, and the Prot-
estants are confined to the Magyar portion
of the population.
Education is not generally in an ad-
vanced condition in Austria, though more
so in the German-speaking provinces than
in other parts of the empire; but in our
country we have a wrong impression en-
tirely. The spirit of elementary instruc-
tion, if not the most enlightened, inculcates,
at every step, morality, the advantage and
happiness of a virtuous life, the evils of
vice, and the miseries consequent on crime.
The military resources are considerable.
and a very large standing army is main-
tained. Military science is highly esteem-
ed, and there are various institutions for
the purpose of its cultivation at Vienna
and other principal cities of the empire.
The people of the southern counties lead a
semi-military life, and are almost constant-
ly under arms. The navy is small and of
modem date, but the inhabitants of the
Adriatic coasts and islands are enterpris-
ing ship -builders and mariners, and are
much addicted to nautical pursuits. The
estimated strength of the Austrian army,
when on a war footing, is little short of
821,000. The navy consists of 72 vessels
of all descriptions, the tonnage of which
is 109,820 tons, carrying 522 cannon : 47
of these vessels are steamers. :
As every province in Austria forms a
J A so r.\ <;!;.
separate land, each has its peculiar lan-
guage or dialect, and its extinguishing
(.u.-toins and habits, (if tin- .SI tvonic lan-
guages, tlm lVli>h po-se-cs the riclu-st
literature : but the Bohemian has of late
years been highly cultivated, :mil frrms
the written language of the Moravians and
Slowaks of the northwest counties of Hun-
gary.
The dialect of Oarniola has been
methodized, and is grammatically taught
as the written language of Illyria and Cro-
atia. The ephemeral existence of the II-
lyrian kingdom, established by Napoleon,
sufficed to call forth the powers of a lyric
poet of considerable merit named Wodnik,
who wrote in this dialect.
The Slavonian nations have all the dis-
tinguishing characteristics of ardent feel-
ings and sanguiuity of temperament, which
makes them more easily elated and sooner
depressed than their neighbors the Ger-
mans. They are fond of music, and every
district has its national airs, which are
often of great antiquity, and usually plaint-
ive. Among the Slavonians the Poles are
[AUSTRIA.] MOSEY.
ful uttilo, (a frock-coat trimmed with fur)
are only worn on state occasions by the
nobles ; but the tight pantaloon and short
boot is the usual dress of the peasant, who
also wears a blue jacket and low-brimmed
hat. Though fond of music, the Hunga-
rians are no musiciaus. The national
dances are often highly pantomimic, and
the Magyar, who is seldom seen to smile,
expresses the excitement of his feelings,
whether in joy or sorrow, in dancing. The
Magyar language is used in the courts of
justice and in the public offices. The dress
of the Wallachian peasantry on festive oc-
casions is highly ornamental and becoming.
The Italian costume is both rich and ele-
gant, especially the head-dresses of the
women, which are more tasteful than those
worn on the north side of the Alps. In the
conflict for superiority between the Ger-
mans and Italians, neither nation does per-
haps justice to the good qualities of the
other; but the northern Italian must be
allowed the merit of displaying those of
continence, sobriety, and industry in a
distinguished by a martial disposition and high degree, though he be less the slave
love of show. The national eostume is now of form than his German neighbor.
only kept among the peasantry, whose win-
ter dresses especially are tasteful and even
elegant. In the other Slavonic nations of
the empire the love of ornament is less re-
markable, the national spirit having sunk
A large portion of the Austrian dominions
are occupied by the Alps, and its scenery
is most enchanting. Sir Humphrey Davy
says. "The variety of the scenery, the verd-
ure of the meadows and trees, the depths
in the lapse of time during which they of the valleys and altitudes of the mount--
have been dependent. No Slavonic dia-
lect is used in the courts of justice, or in
public instruction in the higher schools of
the empire.
The German peasants wear the dress
commonly met with all over Germany,
with varieties in the color and head-gear
ains, the clearness and grandeur of the
rivers and lakes, give it, I think, a decided
superiority over Switzerland." There is
a greater disparity in the manners and
customs of the people than in the scenery
of the two countries. In Austria you are
struck with the warm reception accorded
in nearly every village. The Austrian j to you from all with whom you come in
women wear caps or bonnets made with ; contact, and the earnest desire evinced to
gold lace and decorated with spangles. In i give you all thev can for your monev.
Tyrol the German costume is most pictur- j Money. Accounts in Austria are kept
esque. : in florins and kreutzers. A florin at par
The German language is that used in = 50 c. U. S. currency ; but its value, as
transacting public business in the German paper money fluctuates, is from 35 c. t<> H
and Slavonian provinces, and in the uni- c. U. S. currency. One hundred kreutzers
versities on the north side of the Alps.
TheMagyar>. .r inhabitants of the Hun-
garian plains, of Tartar descent, are a high-
spirited race, warmly attached to their hab-
its and rights Their national costume is
the most splendid in Europe, and everv
family wears its distinguishing colors. The
rich dolman (hussar jacket) and the taste-
= 1 florin.
AUSTBIAN MONTT.
F. K.
(Pieces of S ft"
"^Imperial .Uieat 4 TO
Nores of 1, 5, 10, 50, 100, and
1000 florin?.
Silver : Pieces of 10 and 20 kreutzers.
Copper : Pieces of 1 nnd 4 kreutzers.
707
Gold:
Paper :
[AUSTRIA.]
VlEXKA.
VIENNA.
Vienna, the capital of the Austrian Em
pire, is situated on the level of the Danube.
Population, 1,103,857. Hotels: delnMe-
tropo'e, Golden Lumb, Sucker's Hotel de I' Op-
era. The Hotel de la Metropole, a mag-l
nifieent edifice, containing 30 parlors and'
400 chambers, is fitted up in most eleganti
style, and contains a fine view of the Dan-J
ube ; its restaurant is renowned. It is un-
der the experienced direction of Mr. Speiser.
Hotel Golden Lumb, an old-established, first-
class house in the Praterstrasse, has for
many years been a favorite hotel with Eng-
lishmen and Americans. It should not be
confounded with a house of the same name
in another street. Backer's Hotel de f Op-
era, 4 Augustinerstrasse, is a fine, first-class ;
house, opposite the Opera, and in the finest
quarter of Vienna, the Ring, etc. Its res-
taurant is celebrated as being one of the
first in Europe ; Sucker's Summer Restau-
rant, in the Prater, is also greatly frequent-
ed during that season.
Vienna Is a city of ancient origin, and
has been the scene of many interesting his-
torical events. It was successively taken
by the Goths and Hun?, and subsequently
by Charlemagne, who placed it under the
government of the margraves of the East, as
part of his dominions, whence it was called
Oesterreicfi, and then Austria. The mar-
graves, afterward dukes, held Vienna until
the middle of the 13th century, when it was
taken by the Emperor Frederick II., and
again by Rudolph I., founder of the Haps-
burg dynasty, in 1297. The Hungarians
vainly besieged it in 1477; but eight years
later it was obliged to surrender to Mathias,
who then possessed the united crowns of
Hungary and Bohemia, and made it the
seat of his court. Since the time of Maxi-
milian I. it has been the usual residence of
708
the archdukes of Austria and emperors of
Germany. The most memorable event in
its history, however, and one that largely
influenced the fortunes of Christendom,
was its famous siege in 1683 by a Turkish
army '200,000 strong, under the command
of Kara Mustapha, when it was only saved
from surrender by the timely arrival of
John Sobieski, the heroic King of Poland,
who defeated the besiegers with great
slaughter under the very walls of the city.
In 1619 Vienna was unsuccessfully block-
aded by the Bohemian Protestants. In
1805 it submitted to the conquering arms
of the first Napoleon, and again, after a
short resistance, in 1809.
Vienna is of nearly circular form, be-
ing twelve miles in circumference. The
old city, or city proper, is, however, scarce-
ly three miles round ; it was formerly in-
closed by fortifications. Immediately out-
side of these was a wide esplanade, called
the Glad*, which has recently been elegant-
ly built up, and is called Ringstrasse one
of the most splendid streets in the world.
Beyond are the extensive suburbs of the
capital, which are about fifteen miles in
circumference. In addition to the Ring-
strasse, Vienna possesses numerous fine
public promenades, among which are two
extensive parks the Prater and the Au-
garten. The Prater, beginning at the end
of the Praterstrasse in the suburb called
Leopoldstadt, was formerly a large park
where deer were kept, and is now the fa-
vorite promenade of the Viennese. The
chief alley about 2^ miles long forms
the centre of reunion for the better classes,
and in the month of May is thronged with
all the elegant equipages of the city. At
the left side of this superb carriage-road
there are coffee-houses, restaurants, music-
halls, etc. This part of the Prater is chief-
ly frequented by the lower classes, and on
Sundays is generally crowded. Near the
entrance, at your left, is the Aquarium,
which is well worth seeing, and about
half a mile farther down is the Exhibition
Palace of 1873. The chief buildings still
exist, but in a few years they will be de-
molished. The Augarten is a very shady
place in the proximity of the Prater. The
other principal public gardens are Belvedere
Garten. Schwarzenberg Garten, Botanis-
cher Garten, Stadtpark, and Volksgartpn.
Vienna, from its wealth and size, comes
37 AvyJkA K> tn/tmtimn fit
ft - 'il
39 >>wii Mff' 42 TaltivatiM ./trt
*~-:.t&xm
N A
VIENNA.
nearer London and Paris than any other
European city. It (lifters from these rit-
ies in this respect, that it preserves about
it more antique grandeur, and that it is
the old, and not the new pans of the city
that form the fa>hioiiable quarters, and
rniiMins most of the objects of interest
whii-h Vienna j TCM nts to the stranger, in-
cluding, besides the imperial palace, those
of Prince Esterhazy, Lichtt-nstein, Met-
ternich, Schwarzenberg, and Auersberg,
aa well as the principal churches, muse-
ums, galleries, libraries, and public offices
of every kind. There is no city in Europe
that has so large a number of resident no-
bility as Vienna. There are nearly 200
families of princes, counts, and barons
who make Vienna their residence the great-
er part of the year, spending from $50,000
to $200,000 yearly. It is said, with the
exception of London, the citizens of Vien-
na are the richest in Europe.
The streets in the suburbs of Vienna are
generally broad and straight ; but some of
them, being unpaved, are in wet weather
muddy and dirty, and in dry weather dusty.
The thoroughfares in the city proper are,
on the contrary, uniformly clean and well
paved. Most of the squares or spaces in
Vienna are ornamented with fountains or
monuments. In the Josephsplatz is a fine
equestrian statue of Joseph II. ; in the
interior Burgplatz that of the Emperor
Francis I. ; in the exterior Burgplatz the
equestrian statues of Prince Eugene of
Savoy and Archduke Charles ; in the
Stadtpark the fine statue of the celebrated
musician Schubert, and in the Schwarzen-
bergplatz that of the renowned General
Schwarzenberg.
Vienna is far from being distinguished
as a literary city, and amusement seems
to form a principal object of its pleasure-
seeking population. A fondness for music
is general among all classes. The Vien-
nese have, in fact, been described as a
more eating and drinking, good-natured,
illiterate, laughing, pleasure-loving, and,
[AUSTRIA.] VIENNA.
character about which they display much
jealousy or anxiety. So long as it is grant-
ed that they can produce among their citi-
/.ens a greater number of decent perform-
ers on the violin or piano than any other
capital, they have no earthly objection to
have it said that they can likewise produce
a greater number of blockheads and dcl>-
auchees." "With all due deference to Mr.
Ku^sell, we must beg to differ with him,
although they may well be proud of their
musical composers. Mozart, Haydn, Bee-
thooven, and others have composed their
best works in or near Vienna.
PUBLIC BUILDINGS.
Cathedral of St. Stephen, which stands
in the very heart of the city, and from
which radiate nearly all the streets not
only of the city proper, but ,.lso those of
the suburbs. It is an elegant Gothic build-
ing of imposing dimensions, being equal
in size and richness of architecture to those
of Strasburg and Antwerp. Its length
is 850 feet, breadth 220 feet, and height of
its graceful spire. 450 feet. Its bell weighs
358 cwt.. and was made of the 180 pieces
of cannon taken from the Turks. Midway
up the tower is the fine watch-station of
the city, where a watchman stands ; a tel-
escope is arranged in such a manner that,
when he sees a fire, by reference to the
chart of the city he can discover in what
street and number it is. He immediately,
by the aid of the telegraph, conveys the
information to the fire-office, when in a
very short time assistance is on the spot.
The view from the top of the spire is most
magnificent, taking in the famous battle-
fields of Wagram, Lobau, and Essling, as
well as the suburbs of the city and wind-
ings of the Danube. The interior of the
cathedral is rich in sculpture and stained
glass. The principal objects of interest
it contains are the gorgeous chapel of
the Lichtenstein family, the monument of
Prince Eugene, who is buried here, and
that of the Emperor Frederick II. This
withal, hospitable set of people than the , last is decorated with 240 figures, and rep-
inhabitants of any other large city in Eu- I resentations of 40 coats of arms. Around
rope. Neither here nor in any other large ! the sceptre in the hand of the effigy are
town in Germany do social morals occupy the vowels, which was Frederick's motto,
a very high grade. Mr. Russell says. "The
Viennese take to themselves the reputa-
tion of being the most musical people in
Europe, and this is the only part of their
VOL. II. H 2
A, E, I, O, U : Austria Est Imperare Orbi
Universe, "Austria must rule the world."
The crypt of St. Stephen's has been the
burial-place of the royal family for cen-
709
VIENNA.
[AUSTRIA.]
VIENNA.
turies, but for the last 200 years only the
bowels of the dead have been interred
here. Their bodies have been deposited
in the Church of the Capuchins, and their
hearts in the Church of the Augustrnesl
The open space that now surrounds the
cathedral was formerly a church-yard, but
Francis Joseph II. ordered the remains to
be removed and placed in the vaults under
the church, and the ground to be paved.
The Church ofih>- Aiywftinta is one of
the handsomest in Vienna. It is princi-
pally noted for the masterpiece of Canova,
the monument of the Archduchess Chris-
tine. It consists of a pyramid of marble'
30 feet high, in the centre of which is an
opening representing the entrance to the
vault. This is reached by two broad mar~
ble steps, which are the base of the pyra-
mid. Ascending the steps is a figure rep-
resenting Virtue .bearing an urn which,
contains the ashes of the deceased. By
her side are two little girls, carrying torch-
es; behind them is a figure of Benevolence
supporting an old man bowed down by
age and grief. A little child accompanies
him, the very picture of innocence and sor-
row. On the other side is an admirably
drawn figure of a mourning genius, and at
his feet crouches a melancholy lion. Over
the entrance to the vault is a medallion of
the archduchess, held up by Happiness,
while a genius is presenting her with a
palm, indicative of success. There are
also monuments of Leopold II., General
Daun, Van Swieten, and others. Through
the door to the Loretto Chapel may be
seen the silver urns in which are contain-
ed the hearts of the imperial family, con<
spicuous among which are those of Maria
Theresa and Napoleon II.
The Church of the Capuchins contains the
vault where are interred the bodies of the
royal family. This vault is shown at all
times by torchlight, under the guidance
ef one of the brothers ; but you must not
come during dinner-hour ; gold will not
move them then. One of the first coffins
the visitor will look for will be that of the
only son of the great Napoleon, the only
prince of the Napoleon dynasty, with the
exception of the late Emperor Napole-
on III. and his son Eugene, born under
the imperial purple. There is a sorrowful
romance connected with his life and death
that makes it an object of universal attrac-
710
tion. It is of simple copper, with a raised
cross upon it. Not far removed from this
is the coffin of his grandfather, the late
Emperor Francis III., who was passionately
fond of the prince during his life, and re-
quested to be placed near him after death.
The coffin of Joseph I. is of pure silver.
Here also are those of Joseph II., his fa-
ther Francis, and his mother Maria The-
resa. It is said of the last that for thir-
teen years she every day descended this
mausoleum to mourn for her husband, until
death gave her permission to lie continu-
ally by his side. There are over eighty
coffins in this narrow house of royalty.
The unadorned coffin of the early instruct-
or of the Empress Maria Theresa, the
Countess Fuchs, lies here, by the special
request of the empress.
The Votivldrche, situated before the
Schottenthor, is well worth a visit, as it is
a building of perfect Gothic style. It was
founded by the late Emperor Maximilian
of Mexico, in commemoration of an unsuc-
cessful attempt made upon the Emperor of
Austria's life by a Hungarian assassin.
The other principal churches in Vienna
are the Carmelite church, which has some
fine stained glass, the church of St. Mi-
chael, and the St. Charles Borromeo, a splen-
did building in the Byzantine style of ar-
chitecture. There are some sixty other
churches, eighteen conventual establish-
ments, a Scotch church, several Greek
churches, and a number of synagogues.
The Imperial Palace, or Burg is a con-
fused mass of buildings occupying a large
extent of ground, attached to which is
the Imperial Riding-school, the Library,
the Jewel office, a museum of Antiquities,
Minerals, Zoology, and Botany. The im-
perial apartments arc shown when the
court is absent. There are hundreds of
palaces in Europe far superior to this in
magnificence, although it contains some
fine collections in art and science. Adjoin-
ing this is the palace of the Archduke Al-
bert, which is a very splendid structure.
It contains one of the finest collections of
engravings and drawings in Europe : they
were mostly collected by the Duke of Saxe-
Teschen, and largely increased by his son-
in-law, the late Archduke Charles ; they
amount to more than 200,000. There are
over one hundred sketches and drawings
by Raphael ; among these is the sketch for
VIENNA.
[AUSTRIA.]
his great picture, the Transfiguration. The
figures aro all drawn naked, for the purpose
of studying the. anatiunv of each figure.
There are a large number of sketches by
Michael Angelo, including the figures
for his Last Judgment. The gallery is
open on Mondays and Thursdays, from 9
tol.
Attached to the Imperial Library is an-
other magnificent collection of engravings,
commenced by the Prince Eugene, num-
Jering nearly :l"0,OuO. In this collection
are whole volumes of the drawings of Ra-
phael. Rembrandt. Vandyke, Rubens, Al-
bert Diirer. and other great masters. The j
Imp- r'd! Library is a beautiful building, !
Mtuated on the Josephsplatz. It contains
nearly 350,000 volumes and 20,000 manu-
M-ri]>ts. In the centre of the grand hall, a
splendid apartment '2-Ki feet long, 54 feet
wide, and GO high, is situated a statue of
Charles VI., founder of the library; at
least it was thrown open to the public for ,
the first time by this monarch. Among
its other curiosities, it contains the Psalm-
book of Charlemagne, in gold letters, and
an engraving on bronze of an act of the
Roman Senate prohibiting the Bacchanalia,
bearing date 18t> years lie fore Christ ; also
the MS. nf Tasso's Jerusalem Delivered,
Dante's Divina Comedia, in two copies,
from the 14th and 10th centuries, and a
military map of the Roman Empire in the
fourth centurv.
The Cabinet of Antiquities contains many
rich and valuable relics. It is open on
Mondays and Fridays. It contains 125,000
coins and medals, 50,000 of which are Greek
and Roman. Here may be seen the cele-
brated salt-cellar carved by Benvenuto
Cellini for Francis I. It was formerly in
the Ambras Museum. There are several
other works here by this celebrated artist :
his Leda and the Swan, etc. The finest
cameo in the world is in this collection.
The workmanship is considered the per-
fection of art : it represents the Apotheosis
of Augustus, and is about '26 inches in cir-
cumference.
The Cabinet of Minerals, which is open
on Wednesdays and Saturdays, contains
some fine specimens of diamond crystals
and fossil remains ; also a large collection
of meteoric stones, which have fallen from
the sky in different parts of the world, some
of then\ weighing a much as 70 pounds.
Among the most noteworthy' relics is a bou-
quet of flowers, made of precious stones, for
the Empress Maria Theresa.
The Museum of Natural History, Zool-
ogy, and Botany is considered second to
none in Europe. The specimens of birds
are very complete. The leading curiosities
are, an immense goose with four !
pigeon with the same number of pedal sup-
porters, a horse covered with long woolly
hair, and a horned owl. This museum is
open only on Thursdays.
The most interesting apartment, how-
ever, in this vast establishment is the
Schatzkammer, or Imperial Jewel Office,
which may be visited on Tuesday, Thurs-
day, and Saturday by ticket, although one
florin is quite as effectual, and perhaps
more so, as it secures a deal of informa-
tion from the custodian that a ticket
i.ot. Tickets of admission must be
procured one day previous. The articles
and relics contained in these chambers
are rare and beautiful, and of fabulous
value. Standing foremost among these is
the diamond which was lost by Charles
th;; Bold on the battle-field of Granson ; it
was found by a Swiss soldier, and sold for
it weighs 133 carats ! There is also
an eiiK-ruld hen; weighing 298i> c:;r.it~.
Here is kept the regalia of Charlemagne,
taken from his grave at Aix-la-Chapelle,
and used for centuries at the coronation of
the German emperors ; the crown and scep-
tre of Rudolph II. ; the robes, crown, and
sceptre worn by the Emperor Napoleon
when he was crowned King of Lombard y
the jewels, however, are only imitations ;
but they look so much like real stones that
only good judges can tell ths difference
the silver cradle of his son Nap-ileon IT.,
king of Rome, which was present -vl to him
by the citizens of Paris. Among the relig-
ious relics are the table-cloth used at the
I.a>t Supper, a tooth of John the Bapti.-t, a
piece of the true cross, the arm-bone of St.
Anne, etc. There are also the sabre of
Tamerlane and the horoscope of Wallen-
stein.
Situated under the library is the imperial
Clinch-house, in which are kept all the state
carriages. Here may be seen the ele_'ant
stati< .--ledge of Maria Thert-.-a. The i.n-
prrinl Hiiliny Schooi i also worthy of a
visit.
The YoVuyarte* (people's garden) and
711
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Hofyarten, fronting the palace, are hand-
somely laid out, and in the summer season
are the usual resort of the citizens ; in the
former is situated a temple, built for the
express purpose of securing Canova's fine
group of Theseus killing a Centaur. The
artist received the order for the execution
of this piece of sculpture from Napoleon,
who intended it to decorate the triumphal
arch at Milan. The soldier in attendance
expects a small fee. Corti's Caf6, which is
one of the best in Vienna, is situated in
this garden ; and here Strauss' celebrated
band or military bands play every day at
a grand concert, on which occasion the
garden is always crowded by the beau
monde of Vienna. In the winter season the
concerts take place on Sunday afternoon.
The Imperial Royal Picture-Gallery, Up-
per Belvedere. This is considered the sec-
ond in quantity and quality in all Germany.
It is open on Tuesdays and Fridays ; a fee
of one franc will obtain entrance on other
daj's. The palace which contains this gal-
lery is in the Italian style of architecture
of the last century. It was built by the
Austrian general in chief, Eugene of Sa-
voy, in 1724. Its architect was Jean Luc
de Hildebrand, who was the constructor of
many other ma<_fnificent palaces in Vienna.
It came into possession of the government
in the reign of Maria Theresa, and was ap-
propriated by Joseph II. to hold the pic-
tures of the imperial court. This palace,
with its rich flower-garden, is one of the
finest sights of "the capital, and the view
of the city and its environs from the sec-
ond story is superb. David Teniers, the
younger, was counselor of the Archduke
William, one of the most zealous collectors
of this gallery, and was director of the
German portion of this collection at Brus-
sels ; one of his best pictures is in the sixth
room, No. 34 : it represents him in presence
of the Archduke with a large number of
his Italian collection of pictures.
In the grand marble saloon which forms
( -the entrance to the imperial gallery, and
which is beautifulh- frescoed, we perceive
two portraits, one of Joseph II., and the other
of Maria Theresa, painted by Maron, 1775,
and considered the best likenesses exist-
ing of those noted personages. On the first
story, the first seven rooms on the right are
devoted to the Italian and Spanish schools ;
the left seven rooms, and two cabinets, are
712
devoted to the Dutch and Flemish schools.
On the second gtory, the four rooms on the
right ;ire devoted to the ancient German,
Flemish, and Dutch masters ; on the left
of the same story, the apartments contain
entirely modern German pictures. The
general catalogue does not describe these,
as they are daily increasing; they are de-
scribed in a separate catalogue. On the
ground floor, four chambers on the right
contain pictures of the Italian school ; the
fifth chamber is devoted to the library, and
the five chambers on the left to pictures of
the Flemish school, and to copies. In tb..s
pavilion attached are exposed the scu'^
tures in marble of modern artists.
In the first chamber the principal pict-
ures are, No. 1, the Saviour at the house
of Simon the Leper, with Mary Magdalen
at his feet school of Paul Veronese; 12,
Mars and Venus school (if Titian ; 23, the
Annunciation of St. Mary, by Paul Vero-
nese; 34, Judith with the head of Holo-
fernes, by the same ; 49, Apollo and the
Muses, by Tintoretto ; 50, a Holy Family,
with Saints Catharine and Barbara, by Paul
Veronese ; 54, Venus and Adonis, of the
school of Titian.
In the second chamber the principal
pictures are, 2, Visitation of Man-, by Pal- .
ma the elder ; 17, Diana and Kalliste, with
the Nymphs, by Titian ; 19, the celebrated
Ecce Homo : in this picture, which was
formerly in the collection of Charles I. of
England, and sold by Cromwell, the artist,
in addition to his own portrait, has given
those of several celebrated personages of
his time that of the Emperor Charles V.,
as a chevalier in armor ; the Sultan Soli-
man as a Turkish chevalier ; Pitale is rep-
resented by a friend of Titian's, Peter Are-
tino ; the date 1543. with Titian's name, i
ie on the picture ; 36, Danue reposing on a \
Couch, by Titian. From 35 to 46, with one
exception, arc all of Titian ; 46 is a fine
portrait of John Frederick, elector of Sax-
ony, by Titian : 06. a young Girl embraced
by a Warrior in armor, both of whom are
being crowned by Victory : before them
stands the God of Love, by Paris Bordone ;
CO, the Woman taken in Adultery and
conducted before Christ, by Titian : 59, an
Allegory : the old man on the right sup-
posed to be the celebrated general of
Charles V., the Marquis del Vasto, and the
young girl before him his sweetheart.
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In the third chamber we see two Roman
battl S08. 56 and 57. by Salvator
This mom contains Raphael'? Ma-
donna of the Meadow the Virgin, Child,
and St. John in :i meadow. The edge of
the Virgin's robe bears the (late MDVI.
It is painted on wood, half life size, and is
numbered o.">. In the Golden Cabinet is
Henri Fiiger's celebrated allegorical pic-
ture of the Peace of 1814, a magnificent
composition.
In the fourth room are sevsral tine pic-
tuns by Carlo Dolce, an exquisite painter.
Th,-,. arc, '.'. St. MarxjAJthJ-hiJlifant; 16,
Chri-t with the Cross: ajidJ
in (irief ; 2','. the Presentation in the Tem-
ple. Simon holding the Infant Jesus, and
at his sides St. Joseph. St. Anne, and St.
* Elixaheth, by Fra Hnrtolomeo. Rubens
I formed bis style of painting from this pic-
' ture. -
In the fifth room are a large number of
paintings by the celebrated master, Guido
Reni, born l">7f>. died 1642. Chief among
these are, 1, theBaptism^pf .Christ ; 15, an
allegorical pietuTff OfTne Four Seasons;
24, a Magdalen at Prayer : 27. the Present-
ation in the Temple; 13, Adonis surprises
Venus by the side of Love, by Annibale
Caracci ; 30, the Jieturit of the Prodigal
Son, and 32, the Prodigal Son receiving
new Garments from his Father, both by
Guercino ; 3'i, two Females at the Toilet,
by Elizabeth Sirani.
In the sixth room, 2, Venus playing with
Love, in the background a Satyr, by Lo-
dovico Caracci : 4, the Incredulity of St.
Thomas, by Preti ; 5, Death of Cleopatra,
by Guido Cavnacci : 12. Christ and the
woman of Samaria at the FomnTatny by
Annibale Caracci; 17. Roman Charity, by
Franceschini ; 19. Jupiter, hidden in a
cloud, embraces Io, by Correggio : 27. St.
John as a Child, with a lamb, by Murillo ;
4'.', 4:;. 44. 45, and -17. -is, 1ft. f><'. the Tri-
umphs of Julius Caesar, by Andrea Mon-
tague.
In the seventh room. 14. Picture of a
family, by Velas<mc/ excellent : !:' and
15 by the same master; 44. the Archangel
Michael lighting the rebellion:. Angels, by
Luca Giordana ; 58. a figure of a female
and Love, by Andrea Schiavone ; 60, the
Dead Christ, supported on the top of the
tomb by Angels, by Antonello da Messina.
. The first room on the left of the hall
contains numerous portraits by Rembrandt,
Fy t, Van !>, and other painters ; 14 and 15
are Fish-market- the figures are by Jor-
daens ; the rest of the pictures by Van Es.
In the second room are several fine land-
scapes by Ruysdael ; 29 and 36, TenierB
the elder, and Backhuysen. The view of
Amsterdam by the last is his best picture
here ; the port is tilled with vessels.
The third room is mostly filled with pot
traits by Vandyke : 2 is one of his master
pieces St. Mary with the Infant on tha
Throne : the child is crowning St. Rosalia
with flowers, an angel with flowers is
standing by her side, with the apostles Pe-
ter and Paul on either side of the throne ;
4, portrait of Prince Rupert, son of tha
Elector Frederick V., is excellent, by Van-
dyke ; 9, portrait of a lady in a black robe.
by Kneller; 17 and 29, by De Craven
very fine.
The fourth chamber is entirely filled
with Rubens' paintings. The principal
pictures are, 1, St. Ignatius Loyola cast-
ing out Devils ; 2. the Assumption of the
Holy Virgin ; 3j_St! Francis Xavier preach-
ing and doing miracles among the Indians ;
*. St. Ambrose refusing the Emperor The-
odosins admission into the church at Mi-
lan, touched up by Vandyke Sir Joshua
Reynolds says, "The better for even-
touch :" 9, the Alliance of Frederick III.,
king of Hungary, afterward emperor of
Germany, with Charles Ferdinand of
Spain ; 16. a scene from the Decameron
of Boccace Cimon finding Iphigenie and
her two companions asleep ; near a basin
is a dog. a monkey, and a bird, with vases
of fruits and flowers.
In the White Cabinet are some elegant
specimens of fruits and flowers. The Green
Chamber contains three very magnificent
pieces : 20, the Water Doctor, by Gerard
Dow ; and 103 and 104, by Balthasar Don-
ner : they are the heads of an old man and
old woman, and are most remarkable for
the manner in which the hair and wrinkles
are painted.
The fifth room is nearly filled with Ru-
ben-' work. The principal are 1, 6, 7. 11,
21, 22, 23. Xo. 6, the penitent Magdalen
and her sister Martha; 7. the Feast of Ve-
nn a statue of the goddess surrounded
by dancing satyr-, nymphs, and little cu-
pids : the sacriticc is burning before the
statue ; 11, a portrait of Helena Fonnan,
713
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4
Rubens' second wife, entering a bath, par-
tially covered with a wrapper.
The sixth room is mostly filled with
works of that celebrated artist, David 'IV-
niers the younger ; also some of David Te-
niers the elder. No. 11, a cabinet of art,
with pictures and a variety of objects in
nature and art, with visitors examining
the same, by Jordaens ; 17, a Sorceress
chasing Phantoms, by David Kyckaert;
23, Venus and Adonis, by Jansens; 31,
Pan, with nymphs and satyrs, by Teniers
the elder ; 34, the interior of the picture-
gallery at Brussels, with portrait of the
painter, Teniers the younger, in the fore-
ground; 51, the Archduke Leopold Wil-
liam, governor general of the Low Coun-
tries, receiving a deputation from the cross-
bowmen of Brussels the painter Teniers,
with his family, in the foreground. Nos.
43, 44, and 5-), by the same artist, are very
fine.
In the seventh room are some fine por-
traits by masters of the Spanish school,
with a number of pictures by Rubens.
Nos. 27 and 47, by Jordaens, are very ex-
cellent ; 54, an Attack of Cavalry, by Pala-
medes, good.
In the first room on the second floor a
number of the masterpieces of Albert Du-
rer are to be found, his best works being
preserved in this collection : they are Nos.
13, 15, 18, 26, 28, and 30. No. 18, the
Holy Trinity, is considered his best. There
are also a number of portraits by Holbein
the younger. No. 81, an altar-piece, the
Crucifixion, by Schongauer a magnificent
composition.
In the second room we find a number
of pictures by Quintin Matsys : 29, 32, and
37. No. 38 is a very fine picture.
In the third chamber we find the Tower
of Babel, by Pierre Breughel ; 17, Adam
and Eve driven from Paradise, by F. Flo-
ris ; a number of fine portraits by Pierre
Porbus the elder, and a number of very
excellent pieces by Roland Savery.
In the fourth room stand prominent, 1,
David and Bethsaba ; 4, Mercury surprises
Venus in the arms of Mars ; 5, the Re-
union of Bacchus and Ceres, by Van Achen ;
11, Venus reposing on a Couch, by Joseph
Heinz; 19, by the same artist; -J-1. Mar-
riage of St. Catharine ; 39, Bacchus and
Venus, by Van Achen.
The four rooms corresponding to the
714
last described have no catalogue of pict-
ures. They are all of the modern school
of Germany. There is one landscape de-
serving of especial notice. It is by Han-
schofer. In the vestibule of the ground
floor the visitor will find a magnificent
marble statue of the Emperor Charles VI.
in the antique costume of the Roman em-
perors. It was executed by George Ra-
phael Donner in 1734. The nine rooms on
the ground floor are devoted to copies, and
Italian, Flemish, and Dutch masters, and '
in the adjoining pavilion may be seen some
sculpture.
The Lower Belvedere, at the lower end
of the garden, contains the celebrated A *-
bras Collection of armor, so called from hav-
ing been brought from the castle of Ambras,
in Tyrol, where it was collected by the
Archduke Ferdinand, count of Tyrol, and
son of the Emperor Ferdinand I. It is
considered the most authentic historical
collection in Europe, the prince having
himself written to all the contemporary
sovereigns for the purpose of obtaining
suits of armor of the most distinguished
persons attached to the different courts in
the 14th, loth, and 16th centuries. There
are three apartments filled with armor. In
the first room are kept all the armor be-
longing to members or connections of the
imperial family; in the second, those of
celebrated German princes and nobles ; in
the third, those of Spanish and Italian
princes and nobles. The most noteworthy
in the collection are suits of Don John of
Austria and Philip II. of Spain ; the armor
of the Emperor Maximilian ; that of Mau-
rice of Saxon}-, and Alexander Farnese,
duke of Parma ; the steel suit of Albert the
Bear, elector of Brandenburg.
There are numerous other apartments
in this palace, filled with portraits of all
the principal European sovereigns and dis-
tinguished persons, Roman antiquities,
weapons of sport, and musical instruments,
collections of precious stones, valuable jew-
elry, collections of dresses brought from
the South Sea by Captain Cook, etc., etc.
The gallery is open to the public Tuesdays
and Fridays ; at other times a small fee
will obtain an admission. A catalogue
may be obtained at the door.
There are quite a number of very val-
uable private galleries in Vienna, which
may he visited by paying a small fee to
VIENNA.
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VlIIX.NA.
the custodian say one franc. One of the
best pi< -lure-galleries, the J:'stfrhazy liiil-
lery, which contained several Murillos. lla-
phucKl'aul Potters. Kubenses. Tintorettos,
nl'i da Vim-is, Domenichinos, Rem-
lirandts, and other great masters, was trans-
ferred to Pe>th Mime years ago. Tin- pict-
ure-gallery in the summer palace of Prince
I.ii'k'inxtein .may be visited any day in the
week from 9 to 12, or 3 to C. Among the
most valuable of this collection are Ra-
phaels, Correggios, Titians, Guides, Do-
nu'iiichinos, and Giorgiones, also several
portraits by Vandyke and Gerard Dow.
Tin 1 grounds about this palace arc beauti-
fully laid out, and kept in excellent order.
The picture-gallery of (.'<-nnt I'-.intin con-
tains a small collection; the pictures are,
however, very choice. The Counts of
Schdnbxunn, Harrach. I.emberg, and many
other noblemen, have collections of choice
paintings.
One of the most important places which
the traveler should see in Vienna is the
Impt-rinl Arsenal, within the walls of which
i tilled barracks capable of holding
III.IKMI men. It WU ei, eh <1 in 1*W, and
is a large and massive structure. Within
its walls it cnntains every tiling necessary
for the maintenance, of a l.irirc :.rmy. It
has manufactories of all kinds of weapons,
from the largest cannon to the smallest
dirk. It also has a hospital, a church, and
an officers' barrack. It coi-t ::i::s 200,060
stands of arms always ready for use. Its
collection of arms and armor is one of the
largest and U .-t in Ivirop:-. li may be vis-
ited any day by a ticket (.bt ii:ied from the
Minister of War, and is open to the public
on Thursdays from 9 till 5. Around the
court-yard is hung the monster chain which
the Turks threw across the Danube in 1529.
It is composed of 8000 links. The upper
rooms contain a great many interesting
historical relics, among which are Marl-
borough's arms, the armor of John Sobies-
ki. Mohammed'! green standard, which So-
bieski captured at the siege of Vienna, the
elk-skin coat worn by Gustavus Adolphus
at the battle of Lutzen. an immense number
of standards captured in battle, and other
relics.
In the Town Ar.on/if is a large quan-
tity of arms, the same that were stolen bv
the mob in the late revolution. Here is
kept the head of the Grand Vizier Kara
Mustapha, commander of the Turkish
forces at the siege of Vienna in 1683. He
wa< Mrangled by order of the Sultan, on
account of having failed to take the city.
When Belgrade was taken, his body was
disinterred, the head cut off and brought
to Vienna, as well as the cord with which
he was strangled.
The public institutions of Vienna are
many and liberally endowed. Few capi-
tals can compare with it in the number of
its colleges, schools, and hospitals. Its
Unirersity, which was founded in 1237. is
celebrated on the Continent as a school cf
medicine, and is probably attended by a
greater number of students than any other
German University except that of Berlin.
There are between 80 and 90 professors,
who are paid by the government, and are
neither permitted to receive fees on their
own account nor to give private 1*
The theological, surgical, and veterinary
courses are delivered free, but the student
has to pay about $8 for attendance on lec-
tures on philosophy, and $13 for those of
medicine and jurisprudence. This amount
is appropriated to the use of indigent stu-
ilents. The .\nrmit! School of Vienna was
founded by Maria Theresa, and is a copy
for all others in the Austrian dominions.
Soldiers' children, and children of parents
too poor to pay for their schooling, are
taught gratuitously.
The General Hospital of Vienna is an
immense building, capable of holding 3000
patients. It is ranged round numerous
quadrangles, and receives annually 30,000
patients. Connected with this hospital is
the Lying-in Hospital, to enter which not
even the name of the applicant is demand-
ed. She may enter veiled or masked, and
remain incognito the whole time she con-
tinues in the house. She receives every
attention. None are permitted to r-ce her
but her physician and nurse, and when her
confinement is over, she may leave tha
hospital without any person having tha
slightest knowledge of who she is.
has only to inclose her name in a sealed
envelope ami deposit it with the superin-
tendent, that, in case of death, her relatives
may be apprised of the event. The
are so carefully guarded by the govern-
ment that neither parents, friends, nor
even the officers of justice can approach
them, and it is contrarv to law to prove
715
VIENNA.
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their presence in this establishment in a
court of justice. According to their cir-
cumstances, they pay for their mainte-
nance ; the best accommodations are about
50 cents per day, 30 c. and 12 j c. for inferior.
Persons not able to pay any thing are
obliged to act as nurses for two months.
Nearly 20,000 children are supported in
this institution at one time. The mother
may either take or leave the child in the
hospita>; if the latter, she receives a tick-
et, by presenting which the child ma}- be
reclaimed at any time. If he be not taken
away at a suitable age, he is brought up to
some trade, or made a soldier; if a girl,
a nurse in a hospital. The mortality
among the children is very great. The
object of this institution is to prevent the
many cases of infanticide which would oth-
erwise occur, but there can be no doubt that
the secrecy it guarantees acts as a powerful
incentive to the immorality of the Viennese.
Vienna has six theatres, three in the city
proper and three in the suburbs ; the last
are the minor theatres. The Opera-house,
one of the most splendid theatres in Eu-
rope, is very large, and is devoted to the
opera and ballet. The pieces are magnifi-
cently put upon the stage, and only the best
performers are engaged. The house has
three rows of boxes, and half a row next the
pit. The Hofburg Theater is attached to
the palace, and, as well as the Opera, is
supported by the government. It is de-
voted solely to the performance of the best
classic and modern dramas and comedies.
The performers, after ten years' service,
have a pension settled upon them for life
by the government, with an annuity after
death for their widows.
The Stadttheater gives the same kind
of performances, but the actors are much
inferior to those of the Hofburg. The the-
atre at the Wieden a very spacious room
and the Carltheater in the Leopoldstadt
are devoted to modern operettes, farces, and
sensational dramas of German or French
origin. The theatre in the Josephstadt,
opened only during the winter, can scarce-
ly offer anj' attraction to a stranger. Dur-
ing the summer time a seventh theatre is
opened in the Prater. It is called /'>'/ r*/-
theater ; appropriated to farces, and patron-
ized by the middle and lower classes. It
is the arena on which the national charac-
ter is painted in the most lively colors and
716
broadest manner. The best seats in all
these theatres are the orchestra-stalls
price from 1 to 2 dollars.
Cafe-concerts, music, and dancing halls
abound in Vienna and its environs, for the
entertainment of its citizens and strangers.
The City Park has been lately much im-
proved, and large additions made to it. It
is now one of the most beautiful in Europe.
At one end a splendid building called the
Cure -hall has been erected; in it are a
handsomely decorated concert-room, a cafe
saloon, and a drink-hall : at the last may be
obtained the genuine waters from all the
celebrated springs of Europe ; the city au-
thorities exercise a supervision over this es-
tablishment, to see that all the waters sold
are genuine. A portion of the park is ex-
clusively reserved for children as a plav-
ground; here pure milk only is sold. A
" horse-railway " has been laid around the
old city in the elegant street called the
"Ring," from which radiate railways to
all the different parts of the suburbs. The
magnificent structures recently erected on
the "Ring" put the finest buildings in
Paris to shame ; notwithstanding the rapid
improvement one sees in Paris, Vienna is
rapidly gaining upon it.
One of the most important products of
Vienna are articles in Russian leather, the
prices being much lower here than else-
where. The principal house is that of
August Klein, No. 20 Graben (only), with
branch houses in Paris and London. His
stock of bronzes, ivory carvings, traveling
articles, etc., is immense.
Among the principal manufactures of
Vienna are velvet, silk, and cotton cloths.
Its manufacture of meerschaum pipes is
carried on to a very large extent. The
meerschaum is a kind of clay, consisting of
VIENNA. [AUSTRIA.]
hydrate of magnesia and silex. It is found
in beds in various parts of Europe, but
particularly in Asia Minor, and when first
taken out is soft, and makes lather like
soap. When manufactured, it is boiled in
oil or wax, and baked. Pipes may be
bought here much cheaper than at any
other place in Europe.
Carriages. There are three classes of
carriages for hire in Vienna ; the first class
is the Stadtlohnwtigen : these are the same
as private carriages, and have the privilege
to enter into the court -yard of private
houses ; all other kinds must set you down
in the street; they may be hired by the
day, week, or month, at from 84 to G per
day, with 50 cents to the coachman. The
next best class is thejiacre, which has no
fixed price, and for which a bargain should
invariably be made ; the ordinary price is
50 cents per hour.
No American traveler should leave Vi-
enna without making an excursion to Pres-
burg. Pesth, etc., on the Danube (for de-
scription of tours, see Index); and all trav-
elers to the East should adopt the Danube
route to Constantinople and the Holy Land,
it being the quickest and most reasonable.
The "Danube Steamship Company" have
a large fleet of splendid passenger boat*,
and by a direct accelerated service between
Vienna and Constantinople passengers can
reach the latter city in the short space of
68 hours. Steamers to Rustchuk, rail to
Varna, and steamer to Constantinople.
The fares, including coffee, luncheon, din-
ner, and tea, are only, first class, 121 A. 80
kr. ; second class, 85 fl. 80 kr.
VIENNA.
The Enrirnns of Vienna are worthy of
notice, and much frequented by pleasure-
parties from the metropolis. The principal
place is Schvnbrunn, the favorite summer
residence of the emperor. This palace wa
begun by Matthias, and finished by Maria
Theresa. It possesses a melancholy histor-
ical interest on account of Napoleon II.,
duke of Reichstadt, having died here, and
in the same bed that his imperial father oc-
cupied in 1809. This occurred in 1832. An
impression is prevalent in our country that
this prince was detained in Austria as a state
prisoner. It is a mistake. He was univer-
sally beloved for his goodness of heart and
mild disposition, and was a favorite with his
grandfather, the late emperor, who kept a
watchful eye on him, that he might not be-
come the victim of designing men who
wished to carry him to France ; but there
was not the slightest restriction on his per-
sonal liberty. Some fine pictures and por-
traits adorn the palace, and the furniture is
very rich. The gardens behind the palace
were made memorable by the attempted
assassination of Napoleon by the German
student Stapps, who was convicted and
shot a few hours afterward. The gardens
are beautifully laid out in the French style,
with long avenues bordered with hedges,
rising to a great height. At the extrem*
ity of one of the avenues is the Beautiful
Fountain, or Schone-Brunnen, from which
the palace derives its name. From the
Glorietta Temple, in the rear of the garden,
a beautiful view of the grounds, and Vi-
enna in the distance, may be obtained.
There is a fine Botanical Garden and Me-
nagerie attached to the grounds.
Near Hitttedlorf is the emperor's deer-
park, at which place may be seen 3000 wild
boars, rather an unusual sight.
A short distance from Schijnbrunn is
the beautiful village of Heitzing. In the
church-yard there is an exquisite monu-
ment, by Canova, erected to the memory
of the Baroness Pillersdorf. The Casino
of Dommeyer contains a cafe, restaurant,
billiard-room, and dancing-saloon. It is
beautifully fitted up, and the music is su-
perb. Parties from Vienna generally visit
it for the purpose of obtaining suppers,
which are finely got up.
The "Neue Welt," fine park and res-
taurant ; theatre and concerts every day
during summer ; more frequented than any
similar establishment in Vienna. At the
end of this little town begins a very ro-
mantic valley called the "Bruhl," where
woods and green meadows, ruins of old
717
VIENNA.
[AUSTRIA.]
VIENNA.
castles and modern country-houses, togeth- !
er with a magnificent aqueduct, present to
the eyes of rhe tourist a most varying .mil
delightful scenery.
Laxenburg, to which you can proceed by
railroad, forms one of the most agreeable
excursions from Vienna. It was the fa- ,
vorite summer residence of Maria Theresa j
and of the late emperor. There is a beau- j
tiful avenue of trees which connects it with
the palace of Schonbrunn. The palace in \
itself is not worth the visit, but the gardens
and park are exquisitely laid out. The
winding avenues and walks are so densely
hemmed in with shrubbery that you are
obliged to take a guide at the entrance to
prevent your missing your way. The
"lion" of Saxenhurg, however, is the Fran-
zenburg, or Ritterschloss, an antique castle
situated in the centre of a small lake. It
will occupy several hours to examine all its
antique furniture, its carvings in wood and
stone. Its collection of armor is rich and
varied ; in fact, it is a perfect museum of
antiquities and curiosities. Among the
collection of armor are numerous suits
made for females and children. In one of
the rooms there is a procession of knignts
proceeding to a tournament, and another is
surrounded with statues of celebrated Ger-
man emperors. In another room there is
a fac-simile of a chamber of torture, and in
the miniature dungeon a wooden prisoner.
The whole castle is a very correct imita-
tion of a feudal fortress of the Middle Ages,
filled with authentic relics. Near to this
castle is the Turnierplatz, where tourna-
ments formerly took place by members
of the imperial family and young nobles.
There is also here a Temple of Diana, a
Prater, and artificial waterfall.
A very interesting excursion may be
made, to Mddling to see the castle and
park of Prince Lichtenstein and the Knight
Templars' Church of Holy Otmar. At
your left on the way to Mi-idling you
pass the Spinnerin am Kreuz (the spin- [
ner at the cross), a Gothic cross erected
in 151(1 by Crispinus, adorned with a stat-
ue of Crispinus and Crispiamis. It re-
ceived its name from a tradition, which is
generally believed among the natives, that
a maiden during the Holy Wars made a
vow, when her lover set out for Palestine,
to sit here and spin until his return.
We could neither find out whether she
718
kept her vow, or whether he ever came
back.
An excursion to the warm springs of
Baden (one hour by railway), if in the sea-
son, to see the manner of bathing in com-
pany, will to some be found very amusing.
Some of the baths will accommodate 200
persons at once. Male and female, attired
in long 4re88ing-gown, enter the bath pro-
miscuously, and stand or move around up
to their necks in .steaming water. The
ladies enter from one side and the gentle-
men from the other, but in the bath there
is no separation. Every body is talking,
ever^ body joking, aud every body try-
ing to make himself or herself agreeable.
Many who are in perfect health take great
delight in mixing in this motley crowd.
The balconies around the bath are filled
with the friends of the bathers, but they
are often compelled to retire, as it is al-
most impossible to withstand the beat of
the steam.
The Archduke Albert and many of the
nobility have palaces here, and often dur-
ing the season, the town, which contains
5000 inhabitants, has a population of 15,000.
The walks about the town are charming,
and the valley of Helenenthal, where ev-
ery body repairs after dinner, is really
charming. The valley is surrounded by
heights on all sides, covered in many places
with ruined castles, to reacli which are
paths running up the woody sides of the
valley in all directions. On the left is the
beautiful palace of the Archduke Albert,
surrounded by groves and flower-gardens;
on the heights are the ruined castles of
Rauhenstein, Rauhcneck, and Scharfeneck.
The owners of Rauhenstein were robber-
knights, and, during the reign of Maxi-
milian I. they stopped the empress on the
high-road and robbed her. This act was
the cause of their downfall.
Another excursion may be made to Le~
opoldsbcrff, Kahlenberg, and KfosterneubuTff.
The building on the summit of Kahlenberg
was formerly a convent, but was suppress-
ed by Joseph II. It afterward came into
>ion of the Prince de Ligne. who
died here. It is now the property of a
company, which has built there a fine ho-
tel and several country-houses.
The view from the Kahlenberg and Le-
opoldsberg is a most magnificent one, as
you see before you the city of Vienna in
VlKNXA.
all its grandeur, the superb river the Dan-
ube and the mountains of the \\ ieiier-
wald, covered with well- cultivated vine-
yards <>r superb forests. Since 1873 a
railway brings you to the summit of
mountains. It is constructed in
the same way as that on the Kigi in
[AUSTRIA.] BRUNT*.
ROUTE No. 185.
Vienna to Dresden, via Brunn, Pardu-
bitz. and Prague. Time, 13 h. 13 m. ; fare,
1st class, 27 fl. G5 kr. ; 2d class, 20 fl. 55 kr.
Vienna to Prague, by this, the Austrian
State Railway (quickest), or by the Kaiser
Franz Joseph's Railway, or the Northwest
Switzerland. It is in connection with ' Railway, see Prague, p. 723.
the small steamers leaving Vienna from Half an hour from Vienna the station
the pier near the Metropolitan Hotel, of Wagram is passed. It was at this point
it- is a very pleasant, attractive, and easy that the celebrated battle, of Wagram was
excursion, which nobody should omit to \ fought between the French and Austrians
make. ! on July 5th and 6th. 1809, under the com-
Klosterneuburg contains one of the larg- mand of Napoleon and the Archduke
iid oldest monasteries in Austria; it Charles. The French were the victors.
is also one of the wealthiest.
yards of Klosterneuburg belon
IT t<> this monastery. It has a library of
volumes. The monastery was
founded during the early part of the 12th
The vine- Napoleon rewarded General Berthier with
exclusive- the title of Prince of Wagram.
At the station of Gansendorf the line to
Presburg diverges to the right.
At Xuitz the Oriental tower in the park
century by St. Agnes, wife of St. Leopold, of the Prince Lichtenstein may be seen
.Margrave of Babenberg, who was canon- in passing. At Xilcolsburg the armistice
ixed by Pope Innocent VIII. in the loth between the Austrians and Prussians was
century. Of course there is a legend at- concluded July 26, 1866. Above the town
taehed to its foundation there always is. are situated the Palace Mountains, crowned
It is said that Agnes, having determined by a ruined castle.
to erect a convent, in looking for a site, Briinn, the capital of Moravia, is situated
had her veil blown away. It was not found 1 near the junction of the Schwarza and
until nine years afterward, at which time Zwittawa, two small affluents of the River
her husband, while out hunting, discovered Morava, which carries its waters to the
it on a tree perfectly preserved, which Danube. It contains a population of
clearly proved t/tat was the site for the pro- 50.000 inhabitants. Its principal hotels
jected convent. The veil and part of the are Drt i Fiirsten and Kaiser von Oester-
tree are both shown to convince the un- > reich. Terms moderate ; dinner a la carte.
believer! (We were once told by a trav- j The city is distinguished as a great seat
eler that he had caught a brook trout j of the woolen manufacture, as well as for
,* f<( f'ti;/.' and on our venturing to sug- its silk, soap, glass, tobacco, and cotton
few inches off as a compromise, he
ottered to .--h'.- //.-.- the brook where he ca'/ght
works. It contains nothing to detain the
traveler, unless he wishes to visit the vil-
it, as conclusive proof!) The Emperor lage of Austerlitz, the scene of one of Na-
Maximilian II. placed the ducal coronet on ' poleon's greatest victories, which lies thir-
the shrine of St. Leopold, praying the saint
to take charge of the same. Joseph II.,
whose name should have been Thomas,
'.thought the keeper of the crown jewels at
Vienna the better custodian of the two,
and removed it accordingly. Leopold II.
thought he would give his namesake an-
other trial, and sent it back to the saint,
where it still remains.
teen miles to the east. On a hill to the
west rises the Spielberg, the citadel of
Briinn, formerly a state prison. This was
the place of captivity for eight years of the
Italian poet, Count Silvio Pellico. The
Museum open Wednesday. Saturday, and
Sunday contains a collection of Antiqui-
ties and Natural History.
The Cathedral presents a fine aspect,
situated on an eminence.
The church of St. James is a Gothic ed-
ifice founded in 1314, noted for its elegant
proportions. In the choir there is a mon-
ument to Marshal Souches, the defender
of the town against the Swedes.
719
AUSTERLITZ.
[AUSTRIA.]
PRAGUE.
To the west rises the Franzensberg, on j Vienna, is the most important place in the
which an obelisk has been erected t.> the German provinces of Austria, and ranks
Emperor Francis I. It is surrounded by
fine promenades.
[On the branch line from Briinn to Pre-
rau thirty minutes from Briinn, is the sta-
tion Atisterlitz, close to which was fought,
December 2, 1805, the celebrated battle of
the Drei Kaiser- Schlacht, or the " Three
Emperors," generally known as the battle
of A uster/itz, where the Emperor Napoleon
gained the greatest of all his victories.
The Russian forces were 100,000 men, com-
manded by the Emperor Alexander I. in
person. The Grand -Duke Constantine
was also in command. The Austrians
numbered 200,000, commanded by the Em-
peror Francis I. in person. The French
forces were considerably outnumbered, but
they were commanded by Napoleon in per-
son, with Bernadotte, Oudinot, and Rapp,
and other of his most famous generals.
During the time a part of the Russian
forces were crossing a small frozen lake,
Napoleon brought his cannon to bear on
the ice, when the entire force w;is sent., to
destruction. The French took 20,000 pris-
oners, 50 pieces of cannon, and large quan-
tities of other spoils.]
Passing the station offiaifz, the summer
next to the capital in point of size and
population.
Hotels: The d'Angleterre, one of the
oldest established houses in Austria ; Hotel
de Saxe, magnificently furnished, with very
moderate prices ; Hotel Victoria, a favorite
resort of Americans (English landlady);
Hotel Goldenen Engel, good, first-class house,
conducted by the proprietor, Mr. F. Stickel.
Prague stands on both sides of the Mol-
dau (the chief tributary of the Elbe), in the
centre of the province, and in the midst cf
a fertile and beautiful region. It is the
chief seat of the manufacturing industry
of Bohemia.
The principal quarters of the city are the
Neustadt, the Kloinseite, and the Hrad-
schin. The Altstadt, or old town, is gloomy,
and the Judenstadt, or Jews' town, filthy.
The Moldau, which flows north through
the city, is crossed near the middle by the
celebrated stone bridge, begun in the 14th
and finished in the 16th century : it is 1850
feet in length, and is ornamented on each
side with 28 statues of saints, and has a
lofty tower at each end. Near the centre
of the bridge stands the bronze statue of
St. John Nepomuk, who was drowned in ~
residence of Prince Salm, and the exten- this river by King Wencislaus, because he
sive ruins of Boskowitz, the town of Letto-
witz is reached, noted for its ancient abbey
and castle of Count Ralnokey.
Pardubitz, a small, pleasant town, sur-
mounted by the extensive ruins of a mag-
nificent castle.
[A branch line leads to Zittaii in 7
hours. Near the station Kdrdgsf/ratz. the
great battle between the Prussians and
Austrians was fought, July 3. 1866, when
the latter were defeated.]
Podiebrad station, near which the great
battle that terminated the Hussite war
took place in 1434, and also where on June
18, 1757, the Austrians under Marshal Daun
gained a great victory over Frederick the
Great, and drove the Prussians out of Bo-
hemia.
Prague. This city, the capital of Bohe-
mia, stands in a basin surrounded on all
sides by rocks and eminences, upon the
would not betray the secrets which the
queen had intrusted to him in the holy rite
of confession. The place where his body
was found is still marked bv a cross and
live stars. There is a legend in existence
here that flames were seen issuing from
the 'water at this place until his body was
searched for and found. There is a gor-
geous silver shrine, weighing nearly 4000
pounds, placed in the Cathedral of St. Viti:.s.
In this shrine, incased in a silver and crys-
tal coffin, is the body of St. John ; around
the shrine are silver lamps continually
burning. From the circumstance of his
death, St. John has become the patron saint
of all bridges in Catholic countries. He -
was not canonized until the early part of
the 18th century.
The peculiar architecture of Prague, and
its numerous domes, spires, and turrets,
give it quite an Oriental appearance.
slopes of which the buildings rise tier aft- j The first object that strikes the eye on en-
er tier as they recede from the water's tering Prague is the Hradschin, or palace
brink. It contains 189,994 inhabitants, of the hill, the former residence of Bohe-
10,000 of whom are Jews, and, next to ; mia's kings : it is an immense pile of build-
720
P R
C nAitcttdfl Kesititnx,
i Zai>koroitx.tcher thl
9 Cbllfgium (Tementimim
13 (IconCaUaxscherlbl.
franxens -Monument
"N'eustadt
17
18 J? ' Smniausiiirt/te
10 Salfn '.\cJlfn (^flr-tfft
;20 Bofunischf
Judenstadt
21 J7*- Synagogue
22 ^ller tsnulitisclur-
U E.
Book.
PRAGUE.
[. \rsTRI A.]
PRAGUE.
Ull
he
TC
ings, more remarkable for extent than
beauty. Immediately behind the Hrad-
schia are the heights of L:iiirfi:zil;i-r^.
whore in ancient times the native pagans
celebrated the rites of iire-wor.-hip. On a
im mediately below the palace are
two obelisks, which mark the spot where
the imperial commissioners and their sec-
retary, sent thither with the most intoler-
ant edicts against the Bohemian Protest-
ants, were indignantly thrown out of the
windows of the palace by the deputies of
the kingdom : this was in 1618, and was
the commencement of the Thirty- years'
War. which secured the liberties of Ger-
many, and ended with the Peace of West-
phalia in 1'il*. Within the precincts of
the Hradschin stands the Cathedral tf St,
}'i/n,<: open from 5 to 12 and '2 to <>; it \vas
begun in 1340, and finished in 1-W.. It Is
a nn>-t intere-ting edifice, and a complete
museum of curiosities. Its choir was built
by Charles IV.. and the chapels that sur-
round it are much admired. In the Ca-
thedral is the monument erected by I.u-
dol|,h II. as a tomb for himself and other
Bohemian kings. It is of white marble,
and most beautifully executed. Over
the high-altar is an excellent picture of
St. Luke painting the Virgin. It is in
front of this altar the Emperors of Austria
are crowned Kings of Bohemia. At the
back is the tomb of Ottocar, who was kill-
ed in battle by Rudolph of Hapsburg, the
founder of the present house of Hapsburg.
In addition to the chapel of St. John Xepo-
miik, already described, is that of St. Wen-
zel, patron saint of Bohemia, who was mur-
dered by his brother in the 10th century:
his statue, armor, and sword are here. In
theSchatzkammer of the Cathedral are kept
some very curious relics, among which are
some of the bones of Abraham, Isaac, and
Jacob, a piece of the true cross, two thorns
from the dying Saviour's crown, one of the
palm-branches over which he rode.the pock-
et-handkerchief of the Virgin Mary, the
bridal robe of Maria Theresa, worked by
rself into a mass-robe, with numerous
lies used at the coronation of the kings.
Near the Hradschin is the palace of the
counts of Czerin, which was one of the
linest iii Bohemia ; it is now turned into a
barrack. There are also many other fine
palaces in this neighborhood, among which
that of the Ci rand-Duke of Tuscany.
The Carolinum is remarkable as the first *
great public school established in Ger--, /
many. This university was founded by
Charles IV. in 1350, and contained at one /
time 40,000 students, who were composed
of Bohemians, Austrian.", Poles, Saxons,
and Bavarians. A measure proposed by
John Huss,the celebrated reformer, abridg-
ing the privileges of foreigners, caused the
secession of 25,000, who founded the Uni-
versities of Heidelberg, Leipzig, and Cra-
cow. The Carolinum is now exclusively
devoted to instruction in medicine, law,
and the sciences, while theology is con-
ducted in the Clementinum.
Among the numerous churches is that
of the Tttfin-Kirche, noted for containing
the grave of Tycho Brahe, the great a.--
tronomer, as well as the place where the
heads and hands of the Protestant leaders
were buried after being taken down from
the gate tower of the bridge after the bat-
tle of White Hill, where they were stuck
up to appease the anger of Ferdinand.
The Rathhaus, and the square in which it
stands, are historically interesting from the
many remarkable events that have here
occurred. Here, during the Hussite troub-
les, the mob entered into the council-
chamber, and threw the German council-
! ors out of the windows on the pikes and
spears of the rabble below. Sixty years
later the mob again entered the Rathhaus,
1 and threw the magistrates out in the same
style. John of Luxembourg, king of Po-
land and Bohemia, who was killed at the
battlo of Crccv. was severely wounded in
a tournament in this square. This war-
I rior, commonly known as the. " Blind King
of Bohemia," was son of the F.mp.Tor Hen-
ry VH. After the defeat of the Lithua-
nians, when he lost an eye, and was on his
way to Montpellier to consult a physician,
he fell into the hands of a Jew, who caused
him to lose the other. This diminished
not in the least his taste fur war. At the
battle of Crccy, whither lie went to render
as.-i>t;mce to his ally, Philip of Valois, his
horse was led on either side by a brave
warrior. lie here lost his life, and the
Black Prince gained his spurs and the
feathers and motto which the princes of
Wales bear to this day. which were original-
ly possessed by the "Blind King of Bohe-
mia."
On the Kolowratstrassc, in the same
721
PRAGUE.
[AUSTRIA.]
PRAGIK.
quarter with the Rathhaus Alstadt, is sit-
uated the Bohemian or National M
containing some fine antiquities found near
Prague. There is also a .Museum of Xat-
ur.il History and library. Op.-n to tlie
public Tuesdays and Fridays, from 8 to
12; at other times a fee of 35 kr. Promi-
nent in the latter is the autograph chal-
lenge of John Huss, which was aftixed
to the gate of the University of Prague,
challenging all comers to dispute with
him on the articles of his belief. This
celebrated Reformer was born at Huss, in
Bohemia, in 1376 ; he was educated at
Prague, and became rector of the Univer-
sity, and confessor of Sophia of Bavaria.
queen of Bohemia. Having become strong-
ly imbued with the doctrinas of the English
reformer Wycliffe, he set out to reform the
Church. He declared boldly that the wor-
ship of the Virgin and saints was idolatry.
The Pope condemned him for a heretic ;
but, protected by Wencislaus, king of Bo-
hemia, he pursued his plan of reform with
energy and boldness. He was summoned
to Constance to render an account of his
doctrine. Under the assurance of safe-con-
duct from the Emperor Sigisnmnd, he went.
Hardly had he arrived before he was
thrown into prison, tried, and condemned
to be burned. He suffered martyrdom
with heroic courage. A portion of his
ashes were thrown into the Rhine ; the
residue were retained by his di-ciples. who
distributed them to their masters, crying
for vengeance. Thus commenced the fa-
mous Hussite war.
The Hussites put at their head John
Trocznow (nicknamed Ziska, from having
lost an eye in battle), to avenge the death
of Huss on the Catholics. He was de-
scended from a noble family of Bohemia ;
was very successful ; took the city of
Prague, and refused to recognize Sigis-
mund as King of Bohemia. He attacked
and vanquish >d the emperor at the siege
of Raby, where he lost his second eye.
After several victories over Sigismund, Hfe
forced him to accord to himself the title
of Viceroy of Bohemia ; but, taking the
plague, he died suddenly in 1-J24. It is
said he gave orders to have a drum made
out of his skin to frighten his enemies
again after his death.
This was the first of the reformed relig-
ion, when, after flickering for nearly a cen-
722
tury, the flame suddenly burst forth in tho
Reformation of Luther. The Hussites car-
ried their blind zeal to too great an ex-
tent : they destroyed nearly all the sculp-
ture and ornaments of the different church-
es, defacing the frescoes, and breaking the
beautiful painted glass; this accounts for
the uninteresting state of the ancient
churches of Prague.
Among the different places worthy of
a visit in the Neustadt are the Military
Hospital. House of Correction, Mad-house,
( 'ustom-house. General Hospital, and Mon-
ument to the Swedes.
On the same side of the river, above
the suspension bridge, is the 1 \~i.*f< m r l, or
Acropolis. These precipices are famous
in history. It is said that Queen Libussa,
the founder of Prague, who was a notori-
ous wanton, used to pitch her lovers from
this giddy height into the river as soon as
she got tired of them, and wished a new
one. A country clown, who was moro
successful than the rest in retaining her
passion, was the ancestor of the long line
of Bohemian kings.
Xear the Czernin Palace, in the HracT-
schin, is situated the Loretto Chnpfl, which
is an exact copy of the wandering house
of Loretto in Italy (neither of which are
any thing like the house at Nazareth").
This is considered the holiest place in
Prague, and pilgrimages are made to it
from all parts of Germany. Here you will
be shown the leg-bone of Mary Magdalen
and th'- skull of one of the wise virgins!
The building was erected by the Princess
of Lobkowitz, and contains a large quan-
tity of Church plate. A fee of 40 kreutzers
is expected.
In the palace of Count Sternberg there
is quite a large picture-gallery, but the
paintings are very indifferent on the whole.
One of the most important palaces in
Prague is that of }\'at!< */> in, built by the
hero and generalissimo of the Thirty-Years'
War, Albert, duke of Friedland and Meck-
lenburg, prince of S.igau and Glogau. In
addition to the-.> e.-t.stes he owned lord-
ships in Bohemia and Moravia, and, attha
time he was dismissed from the imperial
service, lived in state equal to the Emper- r.
It was found necessary, when this ]
was built, to pull down one hundred 1:
to make room for it. The most skillful
workmen on the Continent were employe*}
[AUSTRIA.]
Kiixu;-
in beautifying and adorning it. I!i< -t i-
blcs, iu which he kept three hundred car-
vi.-re prnfu-cjy ornamented with
marble. He had sixtv p:ige> of noble
! loodto wait on him, uniliu his ante-cham-
ber were always to l>o found an abundance
of tiamns and kni.'hts in waiting. When
lie traveled from home a hundred car-
- and wagons were necessary for his
->. witli lifty of the finest
in liis train. Although
hi* income was over live million dollars
yearly, he was often troubled for the want
of a few hundred dollars during the war.
It is said you can travel from Prague to
Vienna, a distance of nearly three hundred
miles, without quitting his estate.
The principal places of resort for prom-
enade and amusement are th" bastions
which surround the Kleinseite and the two
i.-lands in the river. The -
is frequented by the higher classes. It
contains a hall-room, bathing e-tablish-
ment, and numerous cafes. The Gross
';! Mand i^ the favorite place of re-
sort for the lower i I
,t 1 "> miles east of the city is the
of the battle of Prague. A monu-
ment i- there to the memory of Schwerin,
!> -ileriek the Great's favorite general, who
was killed in this battle.
1'r.igue has manufactures of cotton, lin-
en, silk, and woolen stuffs, hats, earthen-
ware, and sugar refineries, and is the cen-
tre of an extensive and rapidly inerea.-iug
transit trade. It is al>o noted for its beau-
tiful Bohemian glass-ware, which is manu-
factured here very extensively, f
The old Jewish burial-ground is rather
a singular place, and well worth a visit.
It is no longer used, not being capable
of holding more. There are some tombs
which date hack 1200 years !
Prague was taken by the Prussians un-
der Frederick the Great in 1741, but they
were soon compelled to evacuate the city,
since which lime it has been held by the
A.nstriaqB.
Drosky from the station, 30 kr. ; two-
horse fiacres, 50 kr. Half a day in the
rown. -1 tl.; whole day. (', ti. ; 1 ll.'f
Prague to Paris, rii Nuremberg-Pagny.
Time, 33 h.10 m. ; fare, first class, tin fl.40k"r.
Vienna to Prague, iiu Brunn and Kolin
(Austrian State !{';/. Route 185, quickest),
in 7 h. 50 m. ; fare. 20 fl. 28 kr. ; to Prayue,
via Gmttndand Tabor, by Route 188 (A'wVr
I riin: Joseph's R'y) ; time, 10 b. 7 m. ; fare,
17 tl. 7~> kr.; to Prague, via /naim, Deutsch-
brod, and Lissa (Northwest R'y) ; time, 9J
h. ; fare, 20 fl. 42 kr. (sec Rout
The line to Dresden now crosses several
arms of the Moldnu. on a bridge of eighty-
seven arches, over three quarters of a mile
long, which cost $1,700,000.
Krjglup, a junction of two lines leading to
Kladircr, in the midst of a large coal district.
\Veltruf, a small village, with a chateau
and park belonging to Count Chotek.
Three miles from this station is the
town of Mi-lnil:. belonging to Prince Lob-
kowitz. and farther on is the station Raud-
iated on the Ell>e : here is the castle
of I'niK-i- Lubkoir'ttz, which contains a fine
armory, picture-gallery, and a library of
46,000 volumes. It was in this castle
that It'tiji-.i, the last of the Tribunes." was
conlincd in 1350, by the Emperor Charles
IV.
l.'-!>"filz station is remarkable as the
spot where the first battle of the Seven-
\Var took place, when Frederick
tin- Great defeated the Austrians under
Marshal Braun.
At Sitl-xl: station notice on the opposite
bank of the river the extensive ruins of
. the property of Prince Lob-
kowitz. It was destroyed by the Hussites
in 1 l-2i'..
Aim.-,!,/, Travelers here from Toplitz or
Carlsbad change cars. This town does
considerable traffic in the coal trade, but
otherwise is of no importance. It was the
birthplace of the celebrated painter Ra-
phael Mengs.
JioJeiibiich station. This is the frontier
station between Prussia and Austria, and
travelers descend in whatever direction
they are traveling. Baggage is exam-
ined, and the proprietor of the restaurant
changes Austrian money into German, or
.-T. A stop of nearly an hour takes
place.
As the line approaches Dresden it pro-
ceeds through the interesting scenery of
the " Saxon Switzerland." jia.-siim
Ki"'rn\:<s.ttn'n, a celebrated fortress rising
750 feet above the River Elbe, and com-
manding a splendid prospect. It has
been garrisoned by Prussian troops since
1866.
", a high rock on the opposite bank,
723
JOSEPHSTADT.
[AUSTRIA.]
REICHENBACH.
from whence there is a magnificent view
of the whole of " Saxon Switzerland."
Dres le:>. For description, see Index.
ROUTE No. 186.
Vienna to Prague, Dresden, Berlin, and
Hamburg, by North Western of Austria Rail-
way (sleeping-car route), via Znaim, Deutsch-
brod, Kolin (Prague'), Riesa (Prague), Vsetat-
Privor (Prague), Aussig (Teplilz, Carlsbad,
etc.), Tetschcn, and Dresde::; thence to Ber-
lin, vi i Rodeniu, and to Leipzig and Ham-
burg, via Riesa. [Excursion to the Riesen-
gebirgc.~\ The sleeping-car goes direct to
Dresden, Berlin, Leipzig, and Hamburg; but
for Prague should be left, or taken, at Lissa,
and for Teplitz and Carlsbad, at Aussig.
Vienna to Prague, via Lissa, 9J h. ; 20 fl.
42 kr. ; to Teplitz, via Aussig (33 min. from
Aussig), 11 h. 12 m. ; 26 fl. 4 kr. ; to Carls-
bad, via A utsiy (4 h. 12 m. from Aussig), 15
h. 9 m. ; 26 fl. 78 kr. ; to Dresden, 11 h. 29
m. ; 54 marks, 70 pf. ; to Berlin, 15 h. 17
m. ; 71 mks. ; to Leipzig, via Riesa, 14 h.
14 m. ; 66 mks. 60 pf. ; to Hamburg, via
Riesa and Stendhal, 21 h. 5 m. ; 101 mks.,
40 pf. Sleeping-car tickets are rated as fol-
lows : Vienna to Dresden, 10 mks. ; to Ber-
lin, 12 mks. ; to Hamburg, 16 mks. ; other
distances are charged for at the rate of 6 mks.
for 250 kil. (155 E. m.), greater distances cost-
ing 75 pf. for every 50 kil. (31 E. m.) or un-
der.
Two hours from Vienna, passing through
Kornenburg (16 kil.), Stockerau (26 kil.), and
Oberhallnbrunn and Zdlendorf junction (74
kil.), four small localities, we reach
Znnim (101 kil.), a junction, with a branch
line to Grussburg ; a short stoppage is made
here, and then on to
Deutschbrod junction (225 kil.), 4 h. 55 m.
from Vienna ; branch lines thence to Par-
dubitz, Josephstndt, Reichenbach, and Bres-
luu. Through Goltz-Jenikau and Czaslau,
Kolin junction (299 kil.) is reached, C h.42
m. from Vienna: branch line to Prague in
1 h. 3 m. ; through Gross Wossek (308 kil.,
line to A. Paka), Podebrad, Nimburg junc-
tion (323 kil., lines to Dobrowitz, Jungbunzl,
Turnau, Reichenbach, Seidenberg, Gdrlitz"), to
Lissajunction (338 kil.), whence to Prague
in 1 h. llm. (see above).
Vsetat-Privor (362 kil.), another line to
Prague hence ; Melnik. and
Aussiff junction (434 kil.), good buffet,
724
change of cars for Teplitz, Carlsbad, etc. (see
above). Hence 31 min. to
Tetschen (458 kil.), 10 h. 1 m. from Vienna,
and the Austrian frontier station (see above).
Remainder of route to Dresden, etc., see
Route 185, and Index.
Excursions can be made from Vienna via
Pardubitz and Josephstadt into the Riesenge-
Itiryi'. the "Giant Mountains" of Silesia.
Passing Hirschberg, Warmbrunn (sulphur-
ous springs), and Hermsdorf Castle. Schnff-
gotsch should be visited, and an excursion
be made to the Schneekoppe. The custodian
of the ruins tells the following legend :
In olden times the castle was inhabited
by a great beauty, named Kunigunde, the
only daughter of its lord, who had made a
vow that she would never wed unless the
claimant for her hand should first ride
around the castle on the top of the outer
wall, a fearful depth to the frightful abyss
below. Being rich and beautiful, she had
numerous suitors, most of whom retired
when they heard the conditions of success ;
but many made the attempt, and horses
and riders were dashed to pieces. As she
wished to remain single, this was the cruel
price she put upon her hand. Finally a
knight arrived whose manly beauty and
daring zeal awakened a real interest in
the hard-hearted Kunigunde, and for the
first time she hoped the suitor would be
successful, and watched with fear and
trembling the horse and rider make the
dreadful circuit ; when he had dismounted,
she advanced toward him with open arms,
but, instead of the expected embrace, she
received a box on the ear, and, before she
had time to recover from her indignation
and amazement, the horse and rider had
departed. It seems to have been the
Landgrave of Thuringia, a married man,
who, to avenge his brother's death, had
practiced his horse to accomplish the dar-
ing feat.
Excursions are made to the top of the
Schneekoppe, in five hours from Herms-
dorf. This is the highest summit of the
Riescngebirge, being 5100 feet above the
level of the sea. There was a chapel
erected on the summit in 1681, and two
inns one on the Bohemian, and the other
on the Prussian side of the peak.
i i<"ii -lit-, described in Route Xo. 172.
Ri i' henbach. Hotel, Simue. It was to
this town that the Russians. and Prussians
HAMBURG
JVitttnbergt
BERLIN
JMh
Leipzig
Keichenberg
Litbau
NORTH-WESTERN OF AUSTRIA
RAILWAY,
SLEEPING CAR ROUTE BETWEEN AUSTRIA, SAXONY,
AND NORTH GERMANY.
VIENNA"
LOBA0.
[AUSTRIA.]
TABOR.
returned after thoir defeat by Napoleon
at Bautzen, May 20, 1813; and the Rus-
sian ball which mortally wounded Duroc,
Napoleon' s favorite, was fired from this
village. Two miles from the town a
simple block of sandstone marks the spot
where Duroc and Kirchner fell. A sum
of money was bequeathed by Napoleon for
that purpose, and the monument was
erected in 1840.
Lubnu, an ancient Saxon town. Rail-
icay Hotel. The Rathluvis is of great an-
tiquity, and here for five centuries the
deputies of the six towns of Lusatia were
in the habit of meeting. These towns
are occupied by Wends, a Slavonic race,
with distinct and separate manners, dress,
and language.
There is an iron tower on an adjoining
hill, from whence there is a fine prospect.
Noar the station l\>innu riiz is the town of
Jliifhkirch, noted for the memorable and
di>astrous battle fought here by Frederick
the Great, October 14th, 1758". Marshal
Keith, a Scotch nobleman, son of Lord Keith,
and favorite of Frederick the Great, was
mortally wounded here. A monument has
been erected to his memory in the village
church.
Excursions are made from Hochkirch
to Czurm-bu/i, or " Devil's Mountain," in
one and a half hours. The prospect is
very line.
Jy/i/tt-e.'i. the capital of Upper Lusatia, a
.Saxon province, is finely situated on a
height above the Spree, and contains
I'J.liOO inhabitants. It is surrounded by
walls and watch-towers.
Crossing the valley of the Spree by a
long bridge, Dresden is reached.
ROUTE No. 187.
\'iinna to Carlsbad, ria Gmund, Pilsen,
and Kger. Time, 14 h. 3G m. ; fare, first
class, L'6 fl. 69 kr. ; second class, 22 fl. 24 kr.
The most direct route to Carlsbad, but oth-
erwise unimportant.
Budweis (hotel, Sonne), situated on the
River Moldau, contains 14,250 inhabitants.
Nearly the entire district is the propert)'
of Prince Schwarzenberj, who has erected
here a modern Gothic castle by the side of
the old feudal fortress. Attached to the
palace is a park containing nearly one
thousand wild swim-.
laricnbad. H<>/</ Kliht/ai the best
VOL. II. I
house here, finely situated in front of the
Kursaal, the Baths, and principal springs,
well conducted, and prices moderate. Ma-
rienbad is most beautifully situated in a
high and dry locality, surrounded by hand-
some walks, and kept in fine order by the
monks of Tepl, to whom the property be-
longs. The springs are of two kinds, sa-
line (purgative) and chalybeate, and are
considered the finest waters in Europe for
the cure of bilious complaints. Three of
the principal buildings are the Kursaal,
Assembly-room, and Pump-room. There is
also the fine covered portico of the Kreuz-
brunnen. Lower down the valley, in the
midst of beautiful pleasure-grounds, are
the different mineral springs, covered with
elegant temples. The Kreuzbrunnen and
Ferdinandsbrunnen are the saline (purga-
tive) waters : immense quantities of the for-
mer are yearly exported. Gas-baths are
given in the New Bath-house. Mud-baths
are also given. Marienbad has a theatre,
and balls and concerts are often given.
The excursions are numerous : those to the
Convent of Tepl, six miles distant, and to
Prince Metternich's chateau, five miles dis-
tant, are the most interesting.
ROUTE No. 188.
Vienna to Prague, via Gmiind and Tabor
( Kniaer Franz Joseph's R'y~) ; time. 10 h. 7 m.;
fan-, 1 st.class.17 11.75 kr. ; 2d class, 14 fl. 60 kr.
At Gmiind the line branches off to the
left, and nearly follows the old post-road.
About midway between Vienna and
Prague is the town of
7 'nhiti; the only place of particular in-
terest on the route. It contains 4500 in-
habitants. It is situated on the side of a
hill, and is nearly surrounded by the wind-
ings of the River Luxchnitz. The town was
founded in 1419 by the Hussites.
The adherents of John Huss (who was
born in Bohemia), after his martyrdom at
Constance in 1415, profiting by the weak-
ness of the Emperor Wencislaus, took to
arms under the leadership of John Zi<kn
and yir/iolim il<' //imnim-tz. They founded
this town for a fortress, and gave it the
Scriptural name of Tabor. They van-
quished the imperial forces in several bat-
tles ; but they soon became enfeebled by
contentions in their own deliberations, and
by the death it' I heir two chiefs. How-
ever, the Grand-Duke of Lithuania, who had
725
TABOR.
[AUSTRIA.]
LlNZ.
been elected emperor by their assistance,
revived their sinking spirits, and they were
again victorious over the imperial Catholic
forces at Aussig in 1426 ; and again at
Mies in 1427, and at Sue-bait in 1431.
Austria, Saxony, and Bohemia were soon
overrun and ravaged, and the most un-
heard of cruelties committed by them.
An unsuccessful attempt at reconciliation
was made at Prague in 1433. The great
victory of the Catholics, united with the
moderate Hussites, at BomiscKbrod in 1434,
put an end to the war.
The Hussites were too feeble afterward
to take up arms, and were contented in de-
fending themselves in the Diets. They
soon entirely disappeared, and became in-
corporated with the new sect, the Mora-
vian Brothers.
Some portions of the walls and towers
still exist. In the market-place an old
balcony is shown called Ziska's pulpit.
The Rathhaus contains a suit of his chain
armor. The Gothic Dechanatskirche is
situated on the opposite side of the river,
and presents a very picturesque appear-
ance with its numerous cupolas. There is
a hill near called Horeb, and a pond called
Jordan.
Prague. See Route No. 185.
ROUTE No. 189.
Vienna to Munich, via Linz, Wel$,Attnang
(junction for Gmunden, Ebensee, and Ischl),
Salzburg, and Rosenheim (route over the
Brenner Pass), to Innsbruck, Botzen, and
Verona (from Linz to itatisbon, via Passau).
Time, 9 h. 55 m. ; fare, first class, 22 fl. 23
kr. ; second class, 16 fl. 62 kr.
Passing numerous stations of no special
importance, St. Polten is reached : this town
contains 4600 inhabitants, is the seat of a
bishop, and possesses some fine buildings,
among which is the Cathedral, founded in
the llth century; rebuilt after being burn-
ed in the 13th, and restored at the com-
mencement of the last century.
726
Molk, a small town finely situated at
the foot of a mountain, surmounted by a
Benedictine abbey, founded in 1089, and
presenting a splendid spectacle. Its
church is built of red marble, finely gilded,
and is celebrated for its fine organ. The
library is a most valuable one, contain-
ing 30,000 volumes and 1500 MSS. Its
magnificent saloon contains some fine
pictures.
The Treasury contains some valuable
relics ; among others, a crucifix containing
a piece of the true cross, presented by the
Margrave Albert in 1005. The view from
the monastery is most superb.
Enns, a small town containing 4100 in-
habitants, situated in a most picturesque
position on the left bank of the River Enns.
The walls of the town were built with the
ransom-money paid for liichard Cctur de
Lion. Enns was the scene of martyrdom
of the Christians by Galerius in 304;
many were thrown into the river with
millstones around their necks. One of
them, named Florian, floated long enough
to preach a sermon to his persecutors !
On a height above the town stands the
Chateau Ennseck, belonging to Prince Au-
ersperg, who owns the town. It has a
fine collection of Roman antiquities.
Three miles southwest of Asten station
lies the abbey of St. Florian, one of the
oldest and best-known in the empire. The
present building dates from the 18th centu-
ry, but the crypt owes its origin to the 13th.
The Kaisersaal is a very handsome apart-
ment. The library contains 40,000 vol-
umes and many valuable MSS., with a fine
collection of coins and medals. The picture-
gallery is large in number, but the copies
are numerous.
The line here crosses the River Traun,
near which is the village of Ebelsberg, cel-
ebrated for the battle between the Aus-
trians, under Hiller, and the French undeif
Massena ; the battle took place May 3d,
1809. The passage of the bridge was con-
tested by the Austrians a long time, but
Massena finally forced it; 12,000 men fell
in the conflict.
Linz is situated on the Danube, and con-
tains 31,000 inhabitants. It is the princi-
pal town of Upper Austria. Hotels. Erz-
fuvzoff Carl and Rother Krebs. The town is
connected with its" suburb, Urfahr, by a
line iron bridge, erected in 1872.
WEI-S.
[AUSTRIA.]
BRAOXAU.
In the Great Market-place stands " Trin-
ity Column," erected by the Emperor
Charles VI. in 1713, to commemorate the
deliverance of the country from pestilential
diseases and the invasion of enemies.
The Landhuus, formerly a convent, is
used as the parliament for the meeting of
Mic Estates of Upper Austria.
The old Si-Moss, erected at the beginning
of the present century, has been converted
into a barrack.
The Lattdet'Jtttuetm, open every day,
contains numerous objects of curiosity be-
longing to the district.
Adjoining the Museum is the T/ieater ;
performances every evening.
The church of the Capucins contains the
tomb of Montecuccoli, the celebrated gener-
al of the Thirty-years' AVar.
One and a half miles from the town
stands the tower of Freinberg, built by the
Archduke Maximilian, who fortified the
town by an isolated chain of forts, thirty-
two in number (useless against modern ar-
tillery"). There is a splendid view from
the tower, open until 7 P.M. Ladles not
admitted .'
Jdyermeyer 1 's Garten, on the top of the
bill behind the town, is a place of general
resort for the citizens ; the view is delight-
ful. But better still is that from Postliny-
Ikri/, situated on the left side of the river,
distant two miles from the town.
To the church of St. Madelaine, three
quarters of an hour's time, is also a fine
excursion.
Steamers run daily between Linz and
Fassau.
Line of railway direct from Linz to
Prague-, passing through Frcittadl, Kaplctz,
and Budireis. See Route Xo. 187.
Wds junction (hotel, D-T Greiff") con-
tains I;i0i) inhabitants. Nothing of impor-
tance to be seen. There is an old castle
here, in which the Emperor Maximilian I.
died (1519) ; also Charles of Lorraine, who,
with John Sobieski, freed Vienna from the
Turks.
Three and a half hours from Wels
stands the famous Benedictine abbey of
Kreuzmunster, founded in 772 by the Duke
of Bavaria, he having received the lake and
adjoining lands as a gift from the Emperor
Charlemagne. The modern building, which
contains an observatory and fine library,
dates from the 18th century.
[From Wels one line proceeds to the
right, through Passuu, to Hatisbon and Nu-
remberg.
Passttu contains 13,500 inhabitants. Ho-
tel, Wildermnnn. The town is finely situ-
ated on a tongue of land formed by the
junction of the Inn, Ilz, and Danube. It
was the Castra Batava of the Romans, and
the seat of an independent bishop up to
1803.
The Cathedral was founded in 1284, and
rebuilt in 1662. It was much changed and
improved in 1865. The place in front is
decorated with a bronze statue of Maxi-
milian II.
Crossing the Inn on a wooden bridge rest-
ing on granite piers, 270 yards in length,
is the suburb of Innstadt, fifteen minutes
above which is the J/araA//'church, which
attracts a great number of pilgrims. The
view from this spot is charming.
On the opposite side is the fortress of
Oberhans. Admittance easily obtained ; a
small fee to the soldier who conducts the
visitor.
Straubing (hotel, Wagner), containing
12,000 inhabitants, and situated in the
midst of a vast fertile plain, the best grain
district of the kingdom of Bavaria.
The principal churches are St. James and
the Church of the Carmelites. The last con-
tains a fine monument of Duke Albert II.
The Castle was the residence of Duke
Albert III. and his wife, Agnes Bernauer,
daughter of a citizen of Augsburg, who was
condemned to death by the intrigues of her
stepfather, the Duke Ernest, and thrown
from the bridge into the Danube. Her
remains were interred in the cemetery of
St. Peter. See the inscription in the
chapel.]
[The direct mail line to Munich passes
through Braunau and Ximpach.
Braunau, containing 2100 inhabitants,
is partly surrounded by ancient walls. If
going from Munich to Vienna, baggage is
examined by the Austrian custom officers.
In the parish church there is a picture of
a citizen whose death was caused by lii.s
beard, which was so long that it tripped
him up.
On the left bank of the Inn is the village
of Siiiijiach, where baggage is examined
by Bavarian officers, when going to Mu-
nich.
At Neutvtting, the village is twenty min-
727
ALTTOTTINO.
[AUSTRIA.]
ISCHL.
utes from the station. A half -hour
east is the village of A Ittotti ng, celebrated
throughout Germany for the pilgrimages
which have taken place to the church
of the Black Virgin, which stands in the
centre of the great square. Over the
high-altar stand the Virgin and Child in
a recess, covered with gold brocade and
precious stones, the votive offerings of nu-
merous wealthy pilgrims for the last twelve
centuries, among whom were Charlemagne,
Pope Pius VI., etc. Quantities of glass
cases are filled with valuable offerings, in
return for miraculous cures effected by the
Black Virgin. The hearts of numerous
Bavarian princes are deposited here.
Miihldorf, a small industrious town of
2000 inhabitants.
Munich. See Index.]
Continuing the route from Wels, via
Salzburg. At Lambach there is a branch
line to the left, which leads to Gmiindtn,
situated on the Traun Lake.
Seven miles from Lambach are the Falls
of Traun, which are very magnificent
when the water is high, and rank second
at such times to hardly any in Europe.
The miller at the falls, for a florin, will
shut off the water from the canal and send
it all over the rocks. To visit the falls a
private carriage had better be taken from
Lambach to Gmlinden. Time, 3 hours;
fare, 6 florins. The railway company sell
tickets with the privilege of stopping.
Gmiinde.n, much frequented as a summer
residence and for its valuable baths, is situ-
ated in a really lovely position at the head
of the Traun Lake (Traunsee), between
Salzburg and Vienna, 2 h. 30 m. from Salz-
burg and 5 h. 30 m. from Vienna. Hotel,
A uslria. The A ustria is a magnificent new
building on the lake, close to the steam-
boat pier.
A fine esplanade (concerts twice dailj')
stretches from the town along the shore of
the lake, commanding lovel}' views of the
lake and mountains beyond, and forming
the chief promenade and rendezvous of vis-
itors. The drive and excursions in the en-
virons are most attractive, and the villas
very handsome, conspicuous among which
are those of the Archduchess Elizabeth and
the Princess Louise of Prussia. The baths
are efficacious in nervous complaints, wom-
728
en's diseases, rachitis, scrofula, rheumatism,
gout, indigestion, impoverishment of the
blood (pneumatic chamber for nervous asth-
ma, chronic bronchial catarrh, etc.). There
is a theatre, a large and elegant hirsaal.
concerts, balls, reunions, etc.
The parish church possesses a handsome
wooden altar, carved by Schwanthaler.
The Lake of Traun is nearly nine miles
long and one and a half broad. A steamer
makes the tour of the lake in 1 h. 30 m.
45 minutes from Gmunden to Lnngbalh.
Fare, 1 florin ; go and return, 1 fl. 50 c.
The scenery increases in beauty as the
southern extremity is approached, On the
border of the lake Ebenzweier may be seen.
This was the favorite residence of the Arch-
duke Maximilian, and once the property of
the Comte de Chambord (Henry V.).
Ebensee and L-:ngbuth are the same vil-
lage, situated at the head of the lake. The
distance thence to
Ischl is only eight miles, through the
valley of the Traun. This town, a few
years since almost unknown, has become
a famous and fashionable watering-place.
It is the favorite summer residence of the
Emperor of Austria ; and the empress, hav-
ing been betrothed here, is especially at-
tached to it. Ischl contains 4500 inhabit-
ants. Hotels : B/iuer and Victoria. The
Bauer is one of the finest hotels in Austria,
in a commanding position in its own park.
The Victoria is a good, smaller house, in the
town, near the Kursaal. During the height
of the season it is almost impossible to find
lodging. Travellers should ascertain, by
telegraph, if they can be accommodated.
The Cosmo contains ball, billiard, and read-
ing rooms. One can also breakfast there.
The Theatre is open during the season.
Casino tax, for ladies or gentlemen, alone,
and if stopping more than eight days, 1 fl. ;
for wives, and other members of families,
3 fl. ; six days are free of any tax.
SALZBUR<;.
[AUSTRIA.]
SALZBURG.
Ischl is situated in the centre of the Salz- '
kammergut, which contains the salt-mines
of Austria. They are a government mo-
nopoly, and produce about ninety-five mill-
ion dollars annually, the net profit from
which is about twelve millions.
Among the numerous excursions is that
to A ussee, a great salt-producing town, with
baths, etc. : time, 3 h. 30 m. ; fare (two
horses), 10 florins. To Wolfgang ; time, 2
hours ; fare, 8 florins. To Weissenbach, on
the Attersee. To the lake and town of
Hulttttdt, one day. To the Gosau Lakes,
one long day.
Numerous longer excursions are made
from Halstadt.
From hchl to Salzburg, via the Lake of St. ;
Wolfgang (making the ascent of the Schqf-'
berg from St. Gilgen, which is situated at the
head of Lake St. Wolfgang). Time, 7 h.
30 m. ; fare, by diligence, 4 fl. 6 kr. ; from
June loth to September 15th, 3 fl. 15 kr.
From A ttnang, or Rosenheim, to Salzburg,
the scenery is fine at Eftdorf and Prienz
(boats), Bernau, magnificent at Bergen and
Traunstein, and fine at Teisendorf.
Salzburg, the capital of the Austrian
province of that name, and formerly the
seat of a sovereign archbishopric, is finely
situated on the River Salza, which flows
into the Inn. Population, 19,000. Hotel
de I' Europe, a fine, first-class house, at mod-
erate charges, not far from the railway
station, and most agreeably situated for a
summer residence.
The Cathedral is an imposing structure,
built in the Italian style of architecture
during the early part of the 17th century. .
On the right, as you enter, notice a fine
bronze font of the 13th century ; also, in .
front of the entrance, a statue of the Virgin. !
The castle, or Hohensalzburg, which i
crowns the heights on the left bank of the
river, was built in the llth century, and
served, during the Middle Ages, both as a |
residence and stronghold for its warlike
bishops. It is now used as a barrack.
Some of the rooms, however, have been
restored to their original splendor. Notice
the torture-chamber, where thousands of
r :ints suffered on account of their re- '
formed religion. The view from Monchs-
berg, the name of the ridge of rock on
which the castle is built, is a most glorious
one. It was tunneled by the Archbishop
Sigismund in 17G7. The archbishop had ;
formerly another palace on the opposite
side of the river, called Mirabel,- being de-
stroyed by fire, the emperor erected a mod-
ern building on the site, and the grounds
have been thrown open for a public prom-
enade.
Visit the collegiate church of St. Peter
and its cemet3ry. Under the arcades, no-
tice the monument,by Schwanthaler, erect-
ed to the Polish Countess Lanckoronska.
Here, also, is the tomb of Michael Haydn,
brother of the great composer. Near the
Hofbrunnen (a very beautiful fountain),
notice the bronze statue of Mozart, who
was born here in 1756 ; the statue is by
Schwanthaler. In erecting this monument
numerous Roman mosaics and antiques
were found, which may be seen in the
Museum.
The excursions in the vicinity of Salzburg
are very numerous. One of the principal
is the palace of Helbrunn, with handsome
gardens, in which the fountains play every
Sunday afternoon ; to make them play at
other times, 1 florin fee. The water-works
are most curious. The salt-mines ofHal-
lein are exceedingly curious to visit ; both
lady and gentlemen visitors must don a
male attire to visit them ; fee, 1 florin each
person. Also that most lovely of all ex-
cursions, to Berchtesgaden and the Kd-
niffssee; this last excursion will require a
whole day. The scenery of this lake is
wonderfully grand and magnificent, sur-
rounded as it is by a wall of mountains
rising nearly ei^ht thousand feet on every
side ; the water is green, deep, and limpid.
Excursionists generally take a boat, which
is rowed by women, and go as far as St.
Bartholomew, a hunting-seat belonging to
the King of Bavaria, in whose territory tho
lake lies, where travelers are furnished
with refreshments. Time, 1 J hours ; each
rower 36 kr., and boat 16 kr.
There is a fine view from the Captt-
zinerbrrg, a convent which stands on a
height.
[From Salzburg to Gastein, or Wildbad-
Gastein. Time, 13 h. 30 m. by the re^ul ir
diligence; fare, 9 fl. 75 kr. During the
season the diligence leaves at C> A.M. and
<) P.M. : a private carriage, however, will
go the distance in 10 hours. The principal
hotel is Strnubinger's. There are not over
forty houses in tho place, but the water is
729
REICHENHALU
[AUSTRIA.]
PRAOERHOF.
highly recommended in cases of gout, rheu-
matism, and paralysis. There are numer-
ous excursions in the vicinity, j
From Salzfjnry to Munich. Time, 3 h. 30
m. ; fare, first class, 6 fl. 9 kr.
At Freilasfing station a branch line leads
in 35 minutes to the small watering-place
of
Reichenhall, situated on the Saa'e, and the
centre of the Bavarian salt-works. Hotel,
Kurhaus Achselmannstein. The principal
edifice is the Brunnenhaus, which contains
the forcing-pumps for raising the brine.
Traunstein (hotel, f/irscK), a small mod-
ern town, nearly all built up since its de-
struction by fire in 1851. It contains 3000
inhabitants. Its salt-works are supplied
with brine from Reichenhall, and wood for
the boiling-house is here found in abun-
dance.
Munich. For description, see Index.
ROUTE No. 190.
Vienna to Trieste and Venice: to Trieste,
via Bruck, Gratz, Marburg, Pntgerhof, Lai-
bach, and Adelsberg; to Venice, via Briick,
Villctch, and Udine. Time to Trieste (ex-
press), 14 h. 40 m. ; dist, 596 kil. ; fare, 39
fl. 7 kr., first class ; 29 fl. 14 kr., second class.
Time to Venice (express), 1C h. 15 m. ; fare,
84 frs. 45 cs. The fare by express trains is
augmented seventeen per cent. There are
sleeping-cars on the line.
The road runs through a very beautiful
country, and passes the Austrian Alps.
This passage is a very interesting onr\ as
during a distance of about fifteen miles nu-
merous tunnels and viaducts lead the train
through a wild and romantic landscape.
The highest point of the railway is Sem-
mering, 2788 feet above the sea. Although
the distance is long, few persons stop
until they arrive at Trieste or Venice. If
in a first-class car, one can enjoy a night
on the road very well.
Glocknitz, at the base of the Semmering,
to the left of which, on the heights, is the
castle of W'trlenstein.
Bruck, situated at the confluence of the
Mur and Miirz, with a fine old castle be-
longing to the princes of Bruck. Railways
to Linz and to Salzburg by Radstadt
730
Gratz, distant 140 miles from Vienna,
contains a population of '97, 726. Hotels,
E'ephmt, Archduke John, and Stadt Trieste.
The trains stop here thirty minutes. Gratz
is the capital and chief city of Styria, one
of the provinces of Austria. It is situated
on the banks of the River Mur, and is dom-
inated by the Schlossberg, whence you en-
joy a magnificent view of the town, the
valley of the Mur, and the Alps of Stvria.
i Gratz has a large number of churches, and
i a fine Gothic cathedral containing many
handsome marble monuments. Contiguous
to the cathedral is the chapel containing
the mausoleum of Ferdinand II., who was
a native of Gratz. The University, found-
ed by Charles Francis, is attended by up-
ward of 300 students ; it contains a librarv
of 45,000 volumes and 2000 MSS. One of
the most interesting institutions in Gratz
or in Austria is the Johanneiim, of which
every native of the city is proud. It was
founded in 1811 by the Archduke John,
hence its name. Its object is the encour-
agement of the arts and manufactures in
Styria by means of collections, lectures,
and a public library. It contains a mag-
nificent museum, and the various appurte-
nances of a great educational establish-
ment. Gratz is well supplied with all kinds
of provisions, and is considered the cheap-
est town in Austria to live in. A great
proportion of the inhabitants are persons
' of rank, army officers, and others, who re-
side here on account of the cheapness and
quality of the market. The female popu-
: lation are distinguished for their remarka-
ble beauty. Gratz was taken by the French
j in 1809, after a siege of seven days. Charles
I X. of France and his family resided here
after the Revolution of 1830.
Excursions to be made : To the Hilmer-
teich, Manntrost, and Toblbad.
From the station Spielfeld a drive of 4
hours (carriage, 8 florins) leads to the baths
of Gleichenberg.
Marburg, one of the principal towns in
Styria, containing 6500 inhabitants. Ho-
tel, Stadt \Vien. It is most picturesquely
situated, surrounded by vineyards and for-
ests.
Pragerh"f. From this station a line of
railway leads to Pesth in 10J hours (see
Route No. 195), of which travelers should
avail themselves, if intending to visit Pesth
from Vienna.
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LAIBACH.
[AUSTRIA.]
TRIESTE.
on the occasion by over 10.000 candles, at-
tracting several thousand visitors from all
parts of Europe. The committee of man-
agement for the State have arranged that
the grotto can be visited daj r or night, in
summer or winter, on application. In the
neighborhood are the caverns ofKleinhausel.
Laas, Magdalena. Nussdorf, Saint Csnzian,
etc., of less importance. Close by is the
famous Lake of Cirknitz (lacus lugens of the
Romans), remarkable for the periodical ebb
and flow of its waters, which, at intervals
of four or five v,-eeks, wholly disappear; it
generally takes thirty days to empty, but
tills in as many hours.
tels: Adelsbtrger Hof, Ungarische Krone,
and Lowe. The grotto is well worth a visit ;
it is some 3000 meters in length, and requires
a two hours' visit, two thirds of which can
be done in a small tram-car, or the whole in
asedan-chair. The expense of visiting, from
1 fl. 50 kr. upwards, everything included, va-
ries according to the number of visitors, and
candles used. Electric lighting was intro-
duced in 1884. The boldest expectations of
visitors are surpassed by the reality of these
wonderful caves, the huge and beautiful
rose-tinted stalactites, glistening like back-
grounds of diamonds, the cathedral or cu-
pola, the cascade, the river flowing under-
ground, and under natural bridges, the lion,
the dancing-hall, the Virgin, the tomb, the
belvidere, the huge brilliant, the pavilion,
the parrot, the Calvary (an actual ascent of
a mountain underground), the organ, the
large cypress-trees, and above all, perhaps,
the curtain, are sights which remain forever
engraved in memory. Further wonders are
also in store for the visitor, as several lateral
caves of great beauty will soon be thrown
open. Stalactites and stalagmites are of
great length ; the guide? assort they increase
by a hair's breadth every thirteen vears, ore
of them adding, in reply to the observation
of the author, that their age would lie great-
er than the generally accepted aire of the
world: "When tourists visit this grotto
they change their opinion on the age of the
world !" Every year, during Whitsuntide,
a festival is held in the grotto, illuminated
Trieste, commercial capital of the Aus-
trian Empire, is situated on the Adriatic,
near its northeast extremity: 144,437 in-
habitants. It is the capital of Illyria. and
was declared a free harbor in the reign of
the Emperor Charles VI. All the princi-
pal European nations are represented by
consuls here. Hotels: Delorme and de
la. Ville. Trieste is a free port; it has
supplanted Venice, and monopolized near-
ly the whole of the Adriatic trade. Ship-
building is carried on, and there are manu-
factories of various kinds. Trieste has no
natural harbor, but a canal enables vessels
of considerable tonnage to penetrate the
town, and load or unload at the doors of
the inhabitants. It has also a large mole,
constructed of regular masonry, which
serves as a protection for the shipping.
The city is divided into old and new town
by the Corso, which is the principal street,
and on which are situated the principal
stores and coffee-houses. It communicates
with two public squares, the Piazza, Grande
and horsenplsitz, in the former of which
is a fine public fountain, with the column
and statue of Charles VI., to whom, and
Maria Theresa, Trieste is principally in-
debted for its importance.
The cathedral of San Giusto, in the old
town, is situated on the hill near the castle.
It is supposed to occupy the site of a temple
731
TRIESTE.
[AUSTRIA.]
BRUXECK.
of Jupiter. It is in the Byzantine style,
and dates back to the fourth century. It
contains the tomb of Winckelmann the anti-
quary, who was murdered in an inn here
by an Italian to whom he had shown a gold
medal which had been awarded to him by
the government at Vienna. In the south-
ern aisle may be seen the tombstone of
Don Carlos, pretender to the throne of
$pain, who died here in 1855. Fouche,
>uke of Otranto, minister of police for Na-
f>leon, died here in 1820, and was buried
under the terrace before the cathedral.
':be Exchange, standing in the Exchange
Place, is a very beautiful building. The
Casino club is situated here, to which gen-
tlemen can easily be introduced. The
finest church in the city is that situated at
the head of the great canal. It contains
a magnificent altar, and its organ is con-
sidered one of the best on the Continent.
The church of the Jesuits is a noble build-
ing, and contains some fine paintings.
The traveler should by no means neglect
to drop in at the Ttrgesteum. It contains
the rooms of the Austrian Lloyd's, a bazar,
concert and ball room, reading-rooms and
conversation-rooms, all fitted up in the
most magnificent style. The Piazzetta de
Ricardo received its name from its having
been the place where Richard Cceur de
Lion was confined on his return from the
Holy Land.
The population of Trieste is very Ori-
ental in its appearance, derived as it is
from all the commercial nations of the
Mediterranean Greeks, Italians, Jews,
Armenians, Germans, and Americans.
The Austrian Lloyd's are a very numer-
ous line of steamers running to all parts of
the Mediterranean, starting daily, week.
ly, and semi-weekly. Their principal sail-
ings are as follows: Alexandria, via Port
Said, weekly; Athens (Piraeus), via Syra,
weekly, and via Corfu and Patras, bi-
monthly ; Smyrna, via Syra. weekly, and
vi<i Fiume, Brindisi, and Syra, weekly;
Constantinople, weekly ; Bet/rout, ria Al-
exandria, bi-monthly, and via Syra and
Smyrna, bi-monthly; Alexandria, weekly;
Sttlonica, via Syra and I'iraeus, bi-monthly.
(For full particulars as to dates of sailing
and hour of departure, with date and hour
of arrival at destination, see advertise-
ment.)
A visit should be made to the Castle of
732
Miramar, the former summer residence of
the ill-starred Emperor Maximilian. It
has a beautiful park, with a Museum of
Greek and Egyptian Antiquities, and is
open to the public on Sundays and festi-
vals ; other days a fee of 50 kr. It is a
very pretty excursion froin Trieste. Car-
riage, 3 fl."
There are three public gardens in Trieste,
and three theatres.
Should travelers wish to go direct to
Venice from Vienna by rail, they must
change cars at Nebresina, a distance of 12
miles from Trieste.
For description of route from Trieste to
Venice, see Route No. 193.
ROUTE No. 191.
Villach to Brixen by the Pusterihal, and
Villach to Bruck. Time, 7 h. 42 m. ; fare,
first class, 10 fl. 8 kr. ; second class, 7 fl.
56 kr. The railway was opened in 1871
through the Pusterthal, one of the long
valleys of the Tyrol. There is nothing
special but the scenery to be seen on this
route.
Sachseriburg, a village with numerous
iron-works, situated in a narrow valley ;
near it stand three ruined castles. Car-
riages for Obervillach and Heiliyenblut.
Passing through the valley of the Drave
the town of Linz is reached. This is the
first place of importance in Austrian Ty-
rol. Hotels, Goldenes Rossi and Weisses
Lamm. The town contains 2200 inhabit-
ants, is beautifully situated on the River
Isel, in the centre of numerous excursions.
It contains two convents. The more mod-
ern of two castles, residences of the an-
cient lords of the district, the counts von
(ii'irz. is now used as a brewery.
Niederndorf, a pretty village as regards
situation, contains 1200 inhabitants. Ho-
tel. Post. Diligences to Cortina daily in
3 h. 30 m.
Bruneck. Hotel, Post. The principal
place in the valley. It contains 2000 in-
ElSENERZ.
[AUSTRIA.]
CAJIPO FORMIQ
habitants, and stands at the base of a cas-
tellated eminence, which is crowned by the
ancient castle of the bishops of Brixen, now-
used as a prison.
From Bruneck there is a foot-path which
leads over the high Alps by the pass of
Krimmlertamrn into the valley of Sa'za.
Distance 35 miles.
I-'mnz- nfcste junction and Brixen. See
Index.
Villach to Bruck. Time, 8 h. 3 m. ; fare,
first class, 9 fl. 62 kr. ; second class, 7 fl.
21 kr.
The principal stations are St. Veit, Frei-
t:ich, Xeumarkt, and Indenburg.
ROUTE No. 193.
ROUTE No. 192.
Gratz to Linz, via Bruck, Steyer, and Enns.
Time, 6 h. 68 m. ; fare, first class, 13 fl. '20
kr. : second class, 9 fl. 63 kr.
From Gratz to Bruck, see Route No. 190.
Brack to Leoben junction. Train direct
to Villach. Turning to the right the min-
ing town of
Eisenerz is reached. This place contains
2000 inhabitants, and is situated nearly at
the base of the Pfuff^ nstein, which is over
6000 feet high. The parish church of *t.
Osirald was founded by Rudolph of Haps-
burg in the 13th century. The town was
surrounded with ramparts by the Emperor
Maximilian.
The route follows the valley of the Enns,
passing through Altenmarkt, Losenstein,
and Steyer. This last is a town of some
ini|Kirtance, containing 18,000 inhabitants.
It is situated at the confluence of the Steyer
and Enns, and is noted for its iron-works.
It is surmounted by a castle belonging to
the Prince of Lemberg. Hotel, Golderxr
Lowe.
From Enns to Linz, see Route No. 189.
VOL. II. I 2
Trieste to Venice, by UcKne and Treviso.
Time, 6 h. 59 m. ; fare, first class, 26 fl. ;
second class, 19 fl. 65 kr.
If the evenings are pleasant the steam-
er to Venice should be taken, as there is
nothing to be seen on the route by rail.
Steamers every other night.
Nttretme junction, change cars for Ven-
ice. The direct line leads to Vienna.
At the station Monfalcone the line quits
the coast, proceeding in a northwesterly
direction.
Seventeen miles north of this station is
situated the poor village of A quileia, for-
merly the great Aquileia of the Romans,
with 100,000 inhabitants, and the principal
seat of commerce between Italy and the
north of Europe. In 452 Attila plundered
and destroyed it.
Gorz, or Gorizia of the Italians. Hotel,
Trots Couronnes. Beautifully situated on the
Isonzo, with 13,000 inhabitants. Its only
building of importance is the ruined castle
of the counts of Gorizia, now used as a prison.
On a height above the town is situated the
monastery of Castagnovizza. Charles X. of
France died here in 1836, and was interred in
the chapel, as also the Comte de Chambord
(Henry V.), who died at Frohsdorf in 1883.
The preserved fruits of this town are quite
celebrated.
At the station of S. Giovanni Manzano,
the frontier town of Italy, the usual cus-
tom-house formalities are necessary. Cor-
mons is the Austrian frontier town.
I'dine, an Italian town of 26,000 inhabit-
ants, formerly the capital of the Austrian
province of Frioul. Hotels, Europa and
Stella. It is surrounded by walls of con-
siderable antiquity. It is commanded by
an old castle, and possesses a town -hall
somewhat similar to the Doge's palace at
Venice ; also a campanile with figures to
strike the hour, and two columns like those
at the entrance of Piazza St. Mark.
The Episcopal Palace contains a ceiling
painted by Giovanni, with some other ob-
jects of interest.
The Cathedral possesses some good paint-
ings.
The old castle is now used as a prison.
The Campo Santo should be visited.
Campo Forrmo is a small village to the
right of the railway, noted as the place
733
BELLUNO.
[AUSTRIA.]
PRESBURG.
where the treaty between France and Aus-
tria was concluded by Napoleon and the
Emperor of Austria, October, 1797. The
house where the plenipotentiaries met is
shown.
Conegliano contains 7200 inhabitants.
It is commanded by a conspicuous castle.
The Duomo contains an altar - piece b}'
the celebrated painter Cima, who was born
here. The French General Moncey bore
the title of Duke of Conegliano, awarded
him by Napoleon I.
Diligences leave Conegliano daily for
Belluno. Hotel, Due Torri. It contains
14,000 inhabitants. It is finely situated on
a hill, near the confluence of the Ardo and
Piave. It has a number of fine churches.
The Duomo possesses some good paintings.
It has a campanile 120 feet high. Outside
the gate is a triumphal arch, finished in
1815, too late for the original design a
monument to Napoleon I.
Treviso (hotel, Posta), situated on the
river Sile, contains 22,500 inhabitants.
It is surrounded by a fertile district. The
Duomo of St. Pietro (still unfinished) is sur-
mounted by five cupolas. It contains some
fine frescoes by Paris Bordone, an altar-
piece by Titian, and numerous specimens
of Bellini.
In the Monte di Pieta, there is an en-
tombment of Christ, by Giorgione, said to
be his last work, and finished by Titian.
The Theatre and Palazzo Publico are fine
structures.
Mestre, junction of the lines to Venice
and to Milan.
Venice. See Index.
ROUTE No. 194.
Vienna to Constantinople, via Presburg,
Pesth, Rustchuk (rail to Varna, and steamers
to Constantinople). Time, via the Danube
steamers, 68 hours descending, and 86 as-
cending; fare, first class (food, which is
excellent, included), 121 fl. 80 kr. ; second
class, 85 fl. 80 kr.
In the summer season there is a steamer
daily from Vienna to Pesth at 6.30 A.M.,
and from Pesth to Vienna at 6 P.M.
734
From Pesth to Semlin and Belgrade four
times a week, and from Pesth to Bucharest
and Galatz twice a week.
All particulars in regard to the Danube
steamers can be obtained at the office of
the company in Vienna, Weissgerber, Ilin-
tere Zollamtsstrasse.
A few days can be spent in a profitable
manner by taking the steamer at Vienna,
and making an excursion to the capital of
Hungary, Pesth, if not going to Constan-
tinople. The distance from Vienna is 140
miles. Time, by rail, 10 hours ; by steam-
er, going down, 12 hours. The better way is
to go by steamer and return by rail. The
fare by railway is 13 fl. 36 kr., and by steam-
er 9 fl. The finest part of the excursion
by steamer is between Deutsch-Altenburg
and Presburg.
On the right the town of Hamburg is no-
ticeable for its picturesque walls and tow-
ers ; the heights above crowned with the
ruins of an old castle. The Imperial To-
bacco Manufactory is situated here, occu-
pying the labor of 1500 persons, about one
third of the population of the town. To-
bacco is a government monopoly, and its
growth is prohibited in all parts of the em-
pire except Hungary.
Notice the Castle of Theben, built on a
summit at the confluence of the rivers Mo-
rava and Danube.
Presburg, the former capital of Hungary,
contains 46,740 inhabitants. Principal ho-
tels, Griiner Baum and King of Hungary,
prettily situated on the banks of the Dan-
ube. There is little here to detain the
traveler.
The Hotel de Ville dates from the 13th
century. It was restored in 1857. Near
it is the City Museum, containing objects
of antiquity of the Middle Ages, arms,
etc. There is also another museum, con-
taining a collection of natural history.
The Cathedral of St. Martin was com-
menced in the llth century, and was re-
stored in 1867. The kings of Hungary
were crowned here.
The Schloss, or Royal Palace, is situated
at the top of a hill above the town. It
was nearly all destroyed by fire in 1811.
It was here that the Empress Maria Theresa
threw herself on the sympathies of the
Hungarian nobles, who responded in the
most liberal manner by raising money and
men for her protection.
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KOMORX.
[AUSTRIA.]
PKSTU.
Near the steamboat landing is a mound,
called Konigsberg, which each new king as-
cends after his coronation, and there makes
a sinn of the cross with his sword, which
he points in turn to the four points of the
globe, indicating that he will protect the
kingdom from every quarter. This cere-
mony now takes place in Pesth.
Komorn, an exceedingly strong fortress,
situated on the island of Schiitt. The town
contains 12.350 inhabitants. This fortress
may be called the virgin fortress, as it has i
never been captured. The Emperor Francis
deposited here his valuables during the time
Vienna was in the hands of the French.
An excursion may be made from Ko-
morn to Babolna, where there is an im-
perial stud of Arabian horses of the purest !
breed. They number about one thousand.
Gran, the Strigonium of the Romans, i
contains 9000 inhabitants. It is situated ;
near the confluence of the Gran with tin-
Danube. It is the residence of the princes,
chief bishops of Hungary.
The principal building is the Cathedral,
which is beautifully situated on the sum-
mit of a hill. It is a square building, sur-
mounted by a cupola 250 feet high. It
was commenced in 1821, at the expense
of the prince primate of Hungary, in the
style of St. Peter's at Rome. The interior
is lined with polished marble. The altar-
piece is by J/ess, a Hungarian artist, and
represents the Baptism of St. Stephen, the
first king of Hungary, who became a
Christian, and who founded in 1001 the
See of Gran. At the bottom of the hill
stands the Bishop's Palace.
I 'fiith is beautifully situated on the bank
of the Danube. It contains with Buda
359,821 inhabitants. Hotel de {'Europe,
one of the best in Hungary, kept by Mr.
Rainer. This city, with tiw.ia, on the
opposite side of the Danube, forms the
modern capital of Hungary, and the third
city, in point of population, in the Aus-
trian Empire. Buda is an ancient place,
built chiefly upon the lower slopes of a
range of picturesque hills. Tlie town is
commanded and overlooked by a castle,
a stern, feudal-looking pile. In this was 1
deposited the crown of St. Stephen, king
of Hungary, presented by Pope Sylves-
ter. A.D. 1000, and regarded as the pal- 1
ladium of the Hungarian nation. This
cherished monument of Hungarian inde-
pendence, removed by Kossuth during the
recent struggle, with a view to its preser-
vation by the Magyar nation, fell subse-
quently into the possession of Austria, but
in l*t>7 it was returned to the Hungarians,
who keep it in the chapel of the castle at
Buda. Buda. which has 40,000 inhabit-
ants, communicates with Pesth by a hand-
some suspension bridge. Pesth is a hand-
somely built town, and is the centre of the
inland trade of Hungary. There is a mu r
seam and two theatres. There are four
annual fairs held in Pesth, at which it is
said over 20,000 people are present. The
principal trade is in wine and corn ; nu-
merous mills producing the best flour
known. The noted Tokay wine is much
cultivated by the Magyars. The hills
around Buda are all covered with vine-
yards, which produce the Hungarian wine
called Turk's blood, Ofner, and others.
The fortifications which crown the
heights of Buda are very strong ; never-
theless, they were stormed and taken by
the Hungarians under Gorgei in 1849, aft-
er a fearful struggle, in which the brave
Austrian general Hentzi, with 418 of his
companions, fell. There is a monument
erected to them in the square of the royal
palace. It consists of a Gothic cross, un-
der which lies a wounded soldier, over
whom Fame is leaning. At the side of
the cross are the names of the 418. At
the foot of the hills on which the fortress
is built gush copious streams of hot sul-
phureous water, which were highly ap-
preciated by both possessors of the coun-
try, Roman and Turk, and are to the pres-
ent day. Turkish baths are numerous
here, and for all classes. Three of the an-
cient baths are now in use.
An English writer, describing one of
them, says: "The largest and best pre-
served is situated near the bridge, under
the Blocksberg : its Saracenic architecture
and Turkish inscription, still visible out-
side near the entrance, sufficiently mark
its founders. On opening the door, I wa-
met by such a cloud of steam, and so dis-
agreeable an odor of sulphur, that I was
in doubt at first whether to enter. The
apartment was also so dark that I could
not see a foot before me, and as I knew
there must be water near, and that a single
step might plunge me in the middle of
it, my hesitation to advance increased. My
735
PESTH.
[AUSTRIA.]
MOHACZ.
conductor, however, better accustomed to
the place, led me to a spot where in a few
minutes my eyes, becoming accustomed to
the gloom, began to discern objects athwart
the darkness. I found myself in a spa-
cious circular vault or dome, supported by
eight massive columns, surrounded by a
basin of water so hot that the vapor aris-
ing from it filled the whole interior and
fell in drops from the ceiling. The dim
.light, partially admitted through one or
two very small windows, was barely able to
penetrate this dense atmosphere. It was
therefore only by degrees that I discovered
in the midst of the basin a crowd of bath-
ers, male and female, of the very lowest or-
der, promiscuously intermingled, the for-
mer stark naked, except a slight vestment
round the loins, the women in not much
ampler garb, but partially covered by their
long tresses falling about them."
The Kaistrbad, half an hour from the
bridge, is frequented by a different class
of people. There are good cafe-gardens,
etc., where concerts are given.
The best Picture-gallery in Pesth is that
formerly belonging to Prince Esterhazy,
which contains several Murillos, Raphaels,
Paul Potters, Rubenses, Tintorettos, Leon-
ardo da Vincis, Domenichinos, Rembrandts,
and other great masters. This is the finest
collection in Europe of the Spanish masters
out of Spain. It is situated in the Palace
of the Academy, and was purchased from
the prince in 1865 by the Austrian govern-
ment for 1,300,000 florins. It occupies 14
saloons, with 800 pictures. It is open to
the public Wednesdaj', Friday, and Satur-
day, from 9 to 1 ; on other days an order
from the director is required.
A committee of experts having exam-
ined the document known as Luther's Will,
has declared it authentic. The document
found its way, with a number of manu-
scripts of the learned theologian John
Benedict Carpzoino, to Hungary, and came
into the hands of a private collector, a rich
proprietor named Jankovics, from whom
the Archduchess Maria Dorothea obtained
it for 400 golden guldens. She presented
it to the Protestant church in Pesth, in
whose archives it has lain, nobody being
positively certain that it was authentic.
It is deposited in a special case in the Na-
tional Museum.
Four miles distant from Buda is Alt-
73Q
Buda, built on the site of the ancient city
of Aguincum, where Attila held his court.
On a hill beside the right bank of the Dan-
ube, 18 miles north of Buda. are the ruins of
the royal castle of Wissegrad, long the resi-
dence of the native sovereigns of Hungary.
Of the public buildings, the finest and
most conspicuous is the Neurjebaude. a bar-
rack and artillt-rv depot the largest in the
world. It was erected by the Emperor
Joseph in 1787.
The only University of Hungary is that
situated in Pesth. It was originally found-
ed by Cardinal Pazman. at Tyrnau, and
transferred to Pesth in 1780, and at present
has about one thousand students.
The Xational Museum. a. fine modern
construction, is open free on Mondays ;
on other days a fee of 50 kr. It contains
a good collection of Hungarian antiqui-
ties, and a small collection of pictures
open Tuesdays and Saturdays and a col-
lection of Natural History, to be seen from
9 to 1 on Thursdays.
In front of the museum is the Landhaus,
a fine building, constructed in 1866 for the
deliberation of the members of the Diet.
American tramways are in the principal
streets. Carriages by the hour, two horses,
2 fl. ; one horse, 80 kr. ; by the day, 6 fl.
Three miles below Buda is the town of
Promontorium, the principal part of which
belongs to the Archduke Albert, son of the
late Archduke Charles.
Tolna, on the right bank, has a popula-
tion of 5500 inhabitants. It is the centre
of a great tobacco district. The natives
are principally Germans. The embassa-
dor of the Sultan Soliman was drowned
here by order of King Louis II.
Baja, a town of 15,-OOG inhabitants, is
situated on the left bank of the river. It
contains a handsome palace, belonging to
Prince Grassalkovich.
Moliucz, situated on the right bank of
the Danube, contains a population of 9000.
This town is celebrated for the famous
battle between the Turks and Austrians.
fought in 1526 ; when the best forces of
the Magyars were left dead upon the field,
two thirds of the entire army, headed by
their king, having perished.
From Mohacz there is a branch railway
to Ufzag, near which is the town of Funf*
Idrchen, a town of 20,000 inhabitants, situ-
ated in the centre 1 of a coal di-trict.
NECSATZ.
[AUSTlMA.j
BASIASCH.
On the right is the strong fortress of ' the Russo-Turkish war Servia has become
Petertcardein, where Prince Eugene gained independent. Its fortifications were much
a great victory over the Turks in 1716. improved in l^i'(>.
The fortress is now used as a state prison, > It was at Belgrade that victorious Tur-
and contains a garrison of 4000 men. key. in 17:il<. signed a treaty with Austria
On the left liank is the town >f Xfisat:. and Russia, making them give up their
It rontains a population of '22,000, chieriy conquests of \Vallachia, Moldavia, and Ser-
GiTinans. who emigrated from Belgrade via, and obliged Russia to renounce the
when that town was given up to Turkey, navigation of the Black Sea.
Karloteitz, a town of 6000 inhabitants,
well known in history for the celebrated
battle gained here by Prince Eugene in
171(3. The Turks lost 25,000 men, 203
pieces of artillery, and nearly all their camp
baggage. The celebrated treaty of peace
i_;ned here in 1699, securing to Aus-
tria Hungary, Slavonia, and a large por-
tion of Transylvania nearly half of Tur-
key in Europe.
Semlin is the last Hungarian town. It
is situated on the right bank of the river,
and contains 10,000 inhabitants, consisting
mostly of Servians, Germans, Greeks, and
Illyrians. On the top of a hill called the
The fortress was garrisoned by the troops
of the Sultan until 1867, when it was hand-
ed over to the Servian government.
Servia is now a principality, governed
by a constitution dating from 1869. The
title of prince is hereditary in the family
of Obrenmritch. The present prince is Mi-
lan IV., crowned July 2, 1868 : he became
of age August 22, 1872. The extent of ter-
ritory is 17.014 square miles, and popula-
tion 1,210,346. It formerly paid a tribute
to Turkey of $17, 000.
Ten miles below Belgrade is situated
the town of
Pancsova, a famous pig depot, the land-
ed nobles of this section being great pig
Ziijeuntrberg are the remains of the castle dealers. The pigs are shipped on board
of the celebrated Hungarian hero, John floating sties and towed to Vienna.
Hunniades, who delivered Hungary from
Turkish rule, and died here in 1456. This
Basiasch, the terminus of a railway
from Vienna, and a station for the Danube
Alt-Afoldora is a military village, con-
is the quarantine station for travelers ar- steamers, which may be joined here by the
riving from Turkey, and is a place of con- traveler to the East in 17 hours from Vien-
siderable trade. Steamers leave weekly na (express from Vienna to Temesvar) ;
to make the ascent of the River Save as fare, first class, 30 fl. 6 kr. ; second class,
far as Sissek. 23 fl. 22 kr.
Belgrade, the capital of Servia, contains
30,000 inhabitants, including the garrison.
Hotel, D'.e Krone. This is one of the neetad with Xeu-Moldava (a distance of live
strongest fortresses on the river, and the miles), where there are copper-mines,
key to the Lower Danube. It is the seat Passing the rapids of the river, and
of a Greek and Catholic archbishop. Most through a narrow defile, where the river
of its monuments are in ruins. It contains loses three quarters of its ordinary width,
the prince's palace, and numerous churches the picturesque castle of Columbacz, where
and mosques. It has a large commerce, robber-knights made their stronghold, is
mostly in silk, cotton, and leather. Bel- passed. It is said that this castle was at
grade has been taken and retaken several one time the prison of the Empress Helena,
times. In 1521 it was taken by Soliman It completely commanded the passage of
II. : in ItjS-S by the Duke of Baviese for j the river. One of the caves, entered from
Austria ; in 1690 again taken by the Turks ; the cliff facing the river, is said to be that
and in 1717 by Prince Eugene. The year ] in which St. (n-orge killed the dragon
following, by the Treaty of Passarowitz, it| (there are about ten other caves that claim
was given to Austria, and lost by them in that honor). This is called the Care n of
1739. In 1789 it was taken by London, l',,l>iiitbir:. and at certain periods sends out
but was restored to Turkey in 17'.tl. It rlouds of gnats, which are most injurious
was captured by Czerni George, who com- ] to the cattle in the vicinity, covering a
manded the Servian insurrection in IMH). space of forty square miles ; they only
and retaken by the Turks in 1813. Since , make their appearance during the hottest
737
SKELA-GLADOVA.
[AUSTRIA.]
VARNA.
months, and their bite is so serious that
horses and cattle often die in consequence.
Near Orsora, a military village, is the
Austrian custom-house fortravelers coining
up the river, whose baggage is searched,
principally for tobacco and playing-cards.
The Baths of Mehadia are twelve miles
distant from Orsova ; they are remarkably
efficacious in cases of gout.
Passing the fortress of Xeu - Orsova,
which is situated on an island, and over
the Iron Gate, a rocky impediment in the
river which necessitates the use of small
steamers when the water is low, the Ser-
vian village of Kladosnitza is reached.
Here the Servian steamers stop to receive
passengers.
At Skela-Gladova, immediately opposite,
the steamers of the Danube Company
stop.
Sozoreny, on the left bank, exhibits
signs of the Romans in a tower and wall ;
while a short distance below are the re-
mains of Trajan's Bri/lge, which here
crossed the Danube on twenty piers, built
of pebbles and cement, and faced with
brick ; some of the piers are visible, as
well as the abutments and towers. It
was erected in A.D. 103, by the same ar-
chitect who constructed Trajan's Column
at Rome. The piers having stood the
wear of so many centuries of winters is
accounted for by the fact that the river's
ice is ground to snow by its action on the
rocks of the Iron Gate above.
Kalafat, on the left, is a village of huts,
and is noted for the battle fought there
between the Russians and Turks in 1853.
The Turks had crossed from Widdin on
the right bank, and fortified the island in
the river, as well as the hills behind Kala-
fat. The Russians tried to dislodge them,
but were completely defeated, with a loss
of 2000 men.
Opposite, on the right side, is Widdin,
the strongest Bulgarian town on the river,
containing 22,000 inhabitants, and fortified
with 300 pieces of artillery. It is the see
of a Greek archbishop.
Passing Rakova on the right, where
may be seen a castle and remains of Ro-
man baths,
Nicopoli is reached. It contains 16,000
inhabitants, and is situated at the junction
of the Aluta and Danube. It was founded
by Trajan, after his victories in Dacia
738
(Wallachia). It was taken in 1370 by the
Sultan Bajazet; and in 1396 the army of
Sigisimind, king of Hungary, with numer-
ous French nobles, commanded by Philippe
d'Artois, constable of France, and Jean
Sans Peur, was completely cut to pieces in
its attempt to retake the place.
At Turna-Mogorello there are extensive
warehouses belonging to the Steamship
Company.
On the Bulgarian shore is Sistova, a
town of 22.000 inhabitants. A treaty of
peace was concluded here in 1791 between
Turkey and Austria.
Rustchuk, a well -fortified town, with
40,000 inhabitants. It was taken by the
Russians in 1812 and in 1828, and was
then dismantled. It is the seat of a
Greek bishop, and one of the most im-
portant towns in the province of Bulga-
ria. Its fortifications command the river,
which is here three miles wide. Oppo-
site, about three miles from the shore, is
the town of Giurgevo, containing 20,000 in-
habitants.
Travelers here take the railway to Var-
na, a distance of 140 miles. Time. 7 h.
29m.
Varna is situated on the Black Sea, 120
miles northwest from the Bosphorus. It
contains 21,000 inhabitants 9000 Greeks,
10,000 Turks, and 2000 Armenians, Jews,
etc. There are four Greek churches, and
a cathedral with a metropolitan bishop.
There are numerous Turkish mosques
covered with minarets. The only good
hotel is called the English Hotel.
The Museum contains some valuable
coins of Philip of Macedon, also of the By-
zantine time and style. There are two
Greek monasteries St. Constantino and
St. Demetrius.
Outside the walls are English, French,
and Greek cemeteries.
The country around produces some forty
specimens of fine grapes, in addition to
capital fruits.
The principal exports are wheat, Indian
corn, and barley, which are shipped to
Constantinople, and by rail to Rustchuk.
The harbor has been much improved of
late, and steamers now find little difficult}'
in getting the protection they have so long
needed.
Consuls from all countries, with the ex-
ception of the United States, reside here.
STUHLWEISSENBURG.
[AUSTRIA.]
RAAB
Steamers to Constantinople in 16 hours.
Constantinople. See Index.
ROUTE No. 195.
Pesth to Prar/erhof, via llu'jlar and the
Plattensfe. Time, 10 h. 35 m. ; fare, first
class, 15 fl. 84 kr. ; second class, 11 fl.
88 kr. Trains daily. This route contains
nothing special to be seen.
Stuhliceissenburg. Hotel, Schlenck. This
was the Alba Regalis of the Romans ; it
contains 5000 inhabitants. It is situated
jn the centre of a bog, with only the arch-
bishop's palace to be seen.
There is a line from here direct to Vi-
enna, another to Steinamanger.
The line runs through a level plain past
the Plattensee, Sio Fok, Boglar, Kcathely to
Kdnisa, where there is a line direct to
Vienna, thence to Pragerhnf. See Route
No. 190.
ROUTE No. 196.
Vienna to Fiume, via Steinamanger,
Agram, and Karlstadt (Agram to Stein-
brtick),
From Vienna to Neustadt, see Route No.
190.
From Neustadt to Kanisa. Tune, 6 h.
50 m. ; fare, first class, 9 fl. 54 kr. ; second
class, 7 fl. 16 kr.
In 1 h. 45 m. the station Oedenburg is
reached, three miles to the south of which
is Frohsdorf, the residence of the Comte
de Chambord (Henry V. of France).
Steinamanger, a town of 4000 inhab-
itants. It contains some old Roman re-
mains. The Cathedrals the only building
of importance. Here Septimus Severus
was chosen Emperor.
Kanisa. See Route No. 195.
Affrnm (hotel, Pruckner), a town of
17,500 inhabitants, the capital of the prov-
ince of Croatia. It contains the Palace of
the Ban (representatives of the Estates), the
Law College, Museum, and the Palace of the
Archbishop. Agram was almost destroyed
in 1881, a succession of earthquakes during
the spring and summer causing great loss
of life and immense destruction of property.
Two miles from the town is a fine nat-
ural park called Maximal- .
Karlstadt (hotel, Stadt Agram), a town
of 6500 inhabitants. It is strongly fortified,
with native troops, and the fortifications
have lately been much improved. It is
naturally a place of considerable commer-
cial importance on account of its situation
on the River Kulpa, and on the high-road
to Fiume.
ROUTE No. 197.
Vienna to Pesth, via Bruck, Raab, and
Siuhlweissenburg. Time to Stuhlweissen-
burg, 9 hours ; fare, first class, 10 fl. 52 kr.;
second class, 8 fl. 64 kr.
From Stuhlweisstnburg to Pe*<A,see Route
No. 195.
Simmering, the principal race-ground,
and the former place of reception for the
Turkish embassadors.
Bruck station, a strong fortress in olden
times. The fortifications have been turned
into pleasure gardens.
Raab is situated on a marshy plain, and
contains 18,000 inhabitants; nothing of
importance to be seen. Stuhliceissenburg,
see Route No. 195.
739
KORMOND.
[AUSTRIA.]
GLEICHENBERG.
ROL 7 TE No. 198.
Pesth to Gratz, via Stuh'weissenburff, Kor-
mond, Steinamaiiffer, and Felbach. Time,
9 hours ; fare, first class, 17 fl. 71 kr. ;
second class, 13 fl. 28 kr.
From Pesth to Stuhltceissenburg, see Route
No. 195.
Steinamanfjer. See Route No. 196.
Xormond, a town of 3000 inhabitants,
situated on the River Raab. It belongs to
Prince Batthyanyi, who has here a hand-
some country-house. Nothing of impor-
tance to interest the traveler.
Pel Ibach station. This is a small town
740
containing 1200 inhabitants. It is sur-
rounded by walls and turrets.
At one hour's distance are situated the
Batlis of Gltichenberr;. Omnibus, 60 kr.
They are situated in a beautiful valley,
where there are numerous promenades.
On the summit of a high rock is situated
the old Castle of G/eichenbery ; and two
hours to the north the ancient stronghold
of Reigersburg, situated on a rocky summit
400 feet above the River Raab. It if.
i reached by a winding road cut in the solid
rock. The scenery in the vicinity is de-
lightful.
Grata. See Route No. 190.
ITALY.
DIFFERENT ROUTES AND PASSES INTO ITALY, WITH TIME AND
EXPENSE.
From Paris to Genoa by Lyons, Mar-
seilles, and Nice. Express train to Lyons,
!) hours ; fare, 57 fr. 35 c. From Lyons to
Marseilles, time Gjj- hours , fare, 39 fr. 30 c.
From Marseilles to Nice ; time, 5 h. 29 m. ;
fare, 27 fr. 70 c. The railway is finished
from Nice to Genoa, which will probablj
deprive many travelers of the delightful
ride by carriage or diligence over the
Cornice Road. Be particular, in taking
your seats in the train, to ascertain in
which direction it is going, and take the
right-hand seats ; you will thus be on the
Mediterranean side all the distance. Time
from Nice to Genoa, 6 h. 30 m. ; fare, first
class, "21 fr.
After leaving Paris, the first station of
importance is Cfiarenton, a village of 1900
inhabitants, containing a lunatic asylum
on the left bank of the Marnc. On the
opposite bank is the town of Alfort, which
possesses the finest veterinary college in
France. The forts of Ivry and Charenton
here command the course of the Seine, one
on each bank. Before reaching Brunoy
station the train passes over a viaduct of
nine arches, which commands a fine view
of the valley of the Yores River. After
leaving Brunoy, a second viaduct of 28
arches is passed.
Melun (Hotel de France), a town of
10,000 inhabitants, is the chef-lieu of the
Department of Seine-et-Marne. It was
known to the Romans in the time of Caesar
as Melodunum.
Station of Fontainebleau (see Index).
TJunw-nj station, renowned for its lus-
cious grapes (Chasselas de Fontainebleau).
Near Moret St. Mammcs station a viaduct
of 30 arches crosses the valley of the river
Loing.
Munlvrrnu station. {Hotel Grand Mo-
narque.) Population, 5465. This town oc-
cupies a picturesque and advantageous sit-
uation at the confluence of the Seine and
Yonne. Here the Duke of Burgundy, Jean
sans Peur, was murdered in 1419, and here
Napoleon gained his last victory over the
Allies and the Prince of Wiirtemberg in
1814.
Sens (Hotel de FEau), a town of 12,000
inhabitants, the ancient capital of the Se-
nones. The Cathedral of St. Etienne is a
remarkable edifice of the 12th century.
Tonnerre. (Hott I Lion d'Or.) Popula-
tion, 5000. The hospital in this town was
endowed by Marguerite de Bourgogne,
queen of Sicily. Here is buried the Mar-
quis de Louvois, minister of war in the
time of Louis XIV. The monument is by
Girardin.
Tanlay possesses one of the finest cha-
teaux in Burgundy. It was founded by
Coligny d'Andelot, brother of Admiral Co-
ligny.
Montbard station, the birthplace of the
great naturalist Buffon, 1707. The cha-
teau in which he lived still exists, and is
shown to strangers.
Dijon. (Se^ Index.)
On leaving Dijon begins the celebrated
Cote d'Or, from which the choicest Bur-
gundy wines are produced the Chamber-
tin, Clos Vougeot, Nuits, Beaune, Volnay,
Poniard, Richebourg, Romane'e, Tache, and
St George.
Gevray station, Vougeot station, Nuits,
Beaune, Chagny, Chalons-sur-8a6ne, and
Tournus station are now passed.
Mdcon (see Index). Lyons (see Index).
Viinne. (Hotels, Ombryand Table fionde.)
Population, 19,678. This town, one of the
oldest in France, is situated on the left
bank of the Rhone. It was known to the
Romans in the time of Csesar, and several
interesting monuments of its former great-
ness are still to be seen ; among them the
Temple of Augustus, the Cathedral of St.
Maurice, and the Tower of St. Andre le
Bas. Outside the town is the Roman ob-
741
RODTF.S.
[ITALY.]
ROUTES.
elisk or Plan de 1'Aiguille. On Mount
Pipet are some insignificant remains of a
Roman theatre.
Valence. (Hotel Lion d'Or, Hotel Tete
d'Or.) Population, 18,720. Valence is the
chef-lieu of the Department of the Drome.
It was formerly the capital of the duchy
of Valentinois. The only sights worth
seeing are the Cathedral, and, near it, an
antiquated house called le Pendentif, erect-
ed in 1548. The arms of the Mistral fam-
ily may still be seen on it. A fine view
may be had from the Castle of Crussol.
Station Montelimart, noted for silk-cult-
ure since the campaign of Charles VIII.
against Italy, 1494. The ancient castle of
the celebrated Monteil d'Adhemar family
may still be seen.
Orange (Hot I des Princes, Hotel Grif-
fon d'Or) was the ancient Aransio of the
Romans, and is interesting for its ruins.
A quarter of a mile from the town may be
seen the Triumphal Arch. It is remarka-
bly well preserved, and appears to have
been erected in the 2d century. At the
other end of the town stands the Roman
theatre. It is 121 feet in height, 334 feet
in length, and its walls are 13 feet thick.
Avignon. (See Index.)
Tarascon. -(Hotel des Empereurs.") The
Church of St. Martha and the castle for-
merly belonging to King Rene of Anjou
are the only objects worthy of the travel-
er's attention.
Aries. (See Index.)
Near the station St. Chamas the railway
skirts the margin of the Etang dc Berre,
an inland lake connected with the sea by
a canal at Boue. Rognac station.
Marseilles. (See Index.)
Frejus (Hotel du Midi) contains a num-
ber of Roman antiquities, among them the
celebrated Forum Julii, founded by Julius
Csesar, an amphitheatre, and a Roman arch
called the Porte Doree. This town is the
birthplace of the Roman general Julius
Agricola.
Station St. Raphael. Here Napoleon
landed on his return from Egypt in 1799,
and here too, after his abdication, he em-
barked for Elba in 1814.
Cannes. (See Index.)
Antibes. (H6t< I de France.) A flourish-
ing seaport town, finely situated on a
promontory, and commanding a beautiful
view of the sea, the Bay of Nice, and the
742
Maritime Alps. A pier constructed by
Vauban connects it with some islands in
the bay.
Nice. (See Index.)
The winter of 1871-72 was noted for the
completion of numerous enterprises, the
Mont Cenis Tunnel and the railway from
Nice to Genoa being the most prominent ;
and as all travelers have been enchanted
who have passed over the Cornice Road in
carriages, what will they be now that their
delight is concentrated from three days to
six or seven hours ! This is most decidedly
the loveliest route to Italy. For Mentone,
see Index.
Turbia, the first village of importance, is
celebrated for the Tropjea August!, \vhidi
consist of a mass of blocks and masonry
surmounted by a Gothic tower. After
leaving Turbia a fine view opens, disclos-
ing Mentone and the Mediterranean. For
descriptions of Monaco and Mentone, see
Index.
Ventimifflia (Hotel Croce di Malta), the
Italian frontier fortress, is beautiful!}' sit-
uated on the brow of a hill. From its
important military position its possession
was much contested in the Middle Ages
by the Genoese.
Bordighera. (Hotel Bonlighera.') The
coast around this village is especially noted
for its cultivation of palm-trees, which are
sent to Rome annually for the decoration
of the churches there on Palm Sunday.
St. Remo (Hotel de Londrei) is a healthy
and flourishing town of 11,000 inhabit-
ants. It is situated on the slope of a
hill whose sides are covered with vines,
olives, and fruit-trees, and completely pro-
tected from the northern winds. St. Remo
possesses a curious Gothic church. After
leaving St. Remo, the uninteresting vil-
lages of Saint Laurent, San Stephano, and
Riva are passed.
Porto Maurizio (Hotel du Commerce) is
one of the most important towns of the
Riviera. It is a naval station, and pos-
sesses a harbor. Its exports are olive-oil
and other agricultural produce. On aj>-
proaching Oneglia a fine suspension bridge
is crossed.
Oneglia (Hotel Victoria}, a small sea-
port town with 6400 inhabitants. The best
olive-oil is produced here. Passing Diano
Marino and Cervo, picturesquely situated,
we reach the small town of
IJorTKS.
[ITALY.]
KOUTE&
Alassio. (Hotel de la Belle Itidie.)
From this point the island of Qallinaria
may lie seen, so called by the Romans
from the wild-fowl which they found there.
Albenga, the ancient Roman Albigau-
num. The ruins of the Ponte Longo may
be seen about a quarter of a mile from the
town.
Passing Cereate, Borghetto di Santo
Spirito, Loano, and Pietra, the town of
Finale Marina is reached. Hotel de Lon-
dref, Hotel de Venise. The cathedral and
ruins of Castello Gavonc deserve a visit.
After leaving Variyotk, the road passes
through the tunnel or gallery of the Capo
di Noli.
Noli, a small town of 2000 inhabitants,
is very well built, and defended by a
castle.
Savona (Grand Hotel Royal, Hotel Su-
isse), after Nice and Genoa, the most impor-
tant town, on the Riviera, charmingly sit-
uated amid lemon and orange gardens.
Population, 25,000. Under Napoleon I.
it was the capital of the Department Mon-
tenotte. The cathedral contains several
fine paintings ; among them the Annuncia-
tion by Albani, the Scourging of Christ by
Cambrasi, and a Virgin and Child by Lo-
dovico Urea. In the Church of the Do-
minicans is a fine painting by Diirer, an
Adoration of the Magi ; also the Nativity,
by Antonio Lemini. The poet Chiabrera
was a native of this town. To him the
theatre was dedicated in 1858.
Passing Varazze and Cogoleto, the lat-
ter believed by some to have been the
birthplace of Columbus, we come to Vol-
tri.
Voltri, a town of 9000 inhabitants, is
noted for its paper and cloth manufactures.
A great many richly adorned churches are
here to be seen ; also a number of villas,
among them that of the Marquis di Brig-
noli Sale.
Pegli. This is probably the most lovely
spot on the entire Riviera. In addition to
the grounds of the Villa Pallavicini, prob-
ably the most exquisite in Europe, there
are also the villas Doria and Grimaldi.
The latter has a small botanic garden at-
tached. The climate is lovely and the sur-
roundings arc superb. There is a good
hotel here.
For a description of the Villa Pallavi-
cini, see excursions from Genoa.
Sestri a Ponente is noted for its manufac-
tories. Population, 6000. In the Church
of the Assumption are paintings by Sarza-
no and Carlone.
Cnrnigliano. Population, 3300. Print-
ed calicoes are extensively manufactured
here. The Palazzo Serra is picturesquely
situated on the Coronata. The bridge over
the Polcivera, which is here passed, was
built by the Durazzo family.
San Pierdarena is properly a suburb of
Genoa. The palaces of Spinola and Saiili
are well worth a visit. In the former are
frescoes by Carlone. The principal church
contains a Flight into Egypt by Cambrasi,
and frescoes by Sarzano.
From Paris to Turin. Time, 21 h. 29 m. ;
fare, first class, 100 fr. 20 c.
From Paris the railway proceeds as far
as MM con on the Lyons line. The first
place of importance, after leaving MAcon,
is Bourg (Hotel de V Europ<<). Bourg is the
chef-lieu of the Departementde 1'Ain. The
only object of interest is the Church of
Notre Dame de Brou, erected in the 16th
century by Margaret of Austria, regent
743
ROUTES.
[ITALY.]
ROUTES.
of the Netherlands. It contains monuments
of herself, her husband, the Duke of Savoy,
and her mother-in-law, Margaret of Bour-
bon. Her motto, " Fortune infortune forte
une," may be seen in various parts of the
church. The architect was Muistre Loys
Van Boglem, the sculptor Maistre Conrad.
Amberitu, a little town situated on the
Albarine, is the junction for Lyons. Sta-
tion Culoz, the junction of the Geneva line.
The journey from Geneva to Culoz may be
performed in 2i hours.
Aix-les-Bains. Principal hotel, and well
managed, is the Grand ll<'>t?l d'Aix. Pop-
ulation 4000. This celebrated watering-
place was known to the Romans as Agnse
Gratinae. (See Index.)
There is a branch line from Aix-les-Bains
to Annecy. Time, 1| hrs. ; fare, 4 f. 50 c.
Cham'.ery. (Sea Index.)
Route de Grenoble is the junction for
the branch line to Grenoble, which follows
the valley of the Isere.
MontmeUan. (Hotel das \ ~<>yar/< ?</.) The
Castle of Montmclian was lout; the bul-
wark of Savoy against France. It was
nobly defended by Geoffrey Bens de Ca-
vour against Louis XIII., but subsequent-
ly destroyed by Louis XIV. in 1705. A
very good white wine is produced here.
In crossing the bridge over the Isi-re a fine
view may be obtained of Mont Blanc, the
only point on this route from which it may
be seen. The next station is St. Pierre
d'Albigny.
Aignebelle. (Hotel Posted) Most of the
inhabitants here are afflicted with the goi-
tre, the situation of Aignebelle being re-
markably unhealthy on account of the
marshes. The Castle La Charbonniere
was the birthplace of several of the counts
of Savoy. Crossing the River Arc, we
come to the stations of La C/iambre St.
Ju/ien, where excellent wine is produced,
and St. Jean de Maunnnc (ll<'.t<l d*' I' Eu-
rope). Population 3000. The Cathedral
here is the only object worth tlie traveler's
attention.
St. Michel. (Hotel de la Paste, railway
restaurant.)
The need of an unbroken railway be-
tween France and Italy has long been
strikingly obvious, and has at length been
supplied by the opening of the Mont Cenis
Tunnel, by means of which the journey
744
from Paris to Turin is at present made in
22 hours, but which is expected eventually
to require but 1G. The construction of
this tunnel, the opening of the Suez Canal,
j and of the Pacific Railroad, may be regard-
ed as the three great mechanical and com-
mercial events of the nineteenth century.
The traveler arriving by rail from Paris,
and bound for Italy, luis hitherto proceed-
' ed from St. Michel over the mountain,
passing Modane, Lans-le-Bourg, and the
Mont Cenis Hospice, and, descending by
Molaretto, has rejoined the railroad at (Ji-
aglione. This journey over the mountains
required 5 or 6 hours, and, although the
traveler was partially repaid by the sub-
lime scenery of the Pass, the safety and
convenience of the railroad through the
tunnel was wanting. Although the tun-
nel is named from the Mont Cenis, the
track selected is in reality at some dis-
tance from the mountain. Starting on the
French side from a point above the village
of Fourneaux, 3904 feet above the level of
the sea, it cuts the mountain between the
Col di> Frejus and the Col dc la Rone, ris-
ing gradually to an elevation of 4377 feet
above the sea, and then sloping down to
the opening on the Italian side at Bardon-
neche, 4334 feet above the sea-level. The
tunnel is very well lighted, and the air
within is pure and fresh. The boring of
the tunnel was attended by most serious
engineering difficulties, which were over-
come by the energy and ability of Som-
meiller, who conducted this arduous un-
dertaking. Two thousand men were con-
stantly emplo3'ed, the work performed be-
ing at first half a yard per day, which aft-
erward increased to more than 10 feet per
day. Begun in 1857, the whole mountain
mass, a thickness of 13,256 yards, was
pierced from end to end at the close of the
year 1870.
The totnl expenses of the tunnel amount-
ed to e 13.01 10, 000, $4,000,000 of which was
payable by Italy, according to an agree-
ment made between that country and
Franco in I860. France promised to pay
Italy $3.800,000 if the work was accom-
plished within 20 years, dating from 1862;
and, in case less time was required, she
bound herself to pay $100,000 more for ev-
ery year gained on the stipulated time.
She also agreed to pay 5 per cent, interest
on the money due for the work as it pro-
ROUTE9. [ITALY.]
ceeded from year to year. Italy, stimula-
ted by these terms, has finished construct-
ing the tunnel 11 years before the appoint-
ed time, and has thus gained $1,100,000
from France.
Su.ui. (Ht'it'l de Savoie, Hotel de France.}
Population 3000. Susa is a very ancient
town, known to the Romans as Segusium.
The garden of the governor contains a tri-
umphal arch of the Corinthian order 48 feet
high, 40 feet wide, and 25 feet in depth,
erected in honor of Augustus, 8 B.C., by
the order of the Prefect Cottius, son of
King Dounus.
Turin (see Index).
From Lausanne to Arona on the Layo
Mdt/yiort, over the Simplm. Railway from
Lausanne to Sion 4i hours. Fare 10 f.GO c.
From Sion, over the Simplon in diligence,
which leaves daily. 111 hours. Fare in the
coupe to Domo d'Ossola, 35 f. 30 c. From
Domo d'Ossola, 35 f. 30 c. From Domo
<!'< Ksola to Arona, 8 f.
From Lausanne (Ouchy) to Villeneuve
or Bouveret. it is preferable for travelers
to take the steamer. Travelers stopping
at Lausanne may reach Ouchy in hour
by omnibus. The most beautiful part of
Lake Geneva is seen on this trip.
Passing the villages of Clarens,Chernex,
and Vernex, we come to Montreux, a favor-
ite winter residence of invalids on account
of the mildness of the climate. The hotels
and pensions in the vicinity are numerous.
Hotel and Pension Du Cygne the best.
About If miles from Montreux stands
the Castle of Chillon, on a rock in the lake
connected with the bank by a wooden
bridge. It is shown daily to strangers, and
is well worth a visit. For description of
castle, see Index.
Villeneuve (Hotel de Vitte) is an an-
cient town of some 1500 inhabitants, situ-
ated at the mouth of the Rhone. Near
Villeneuve lies the island mentioned by
Byron in the Prisoner of Chillon. Near
Villeneuve is the Hotel Byron, beautifully
situated on an eminence overlooking the
lake. Travelers wishing to make any stay
here will find it an excellent hotel in ev-
ery respect. At Bonveret travelers take
the cars for Sion. Passing the stations
Aigle, Ollon, and St. Triphon, we come to
the village Bex, celebrated since the 16th
ivntury for its salt mines and works. They
urc situated about two miles from Bex, in
ROUTE&
! the valley of La Gryonnc. About half a
day is required for this excursion, which
is a very interesting one.
St. Maurice (Jldtel de la Dent du Midi)
| is an old town of about 1070 inhabitants.
The abbey founded by the Emperor Sigis-
; mund in 515, in honor of St. Maurice, con-
tains some very interesting works of art,
among thorn a (Jivrian ;:g.iti; cameo cup, a
chalice given by Bertha, queen of Burgun
dy,and an ampaulc given by Charlemagne.
Martigny {Hotel de la Tour). (See In-
dex.)
A visit by all means should be paid to
the Gorge de Trient, and the Pissevache,
or the waterfall of the Sallenche.
Sion. (See Index.)
Sierre (Hotel and Pension Baur), a small
but prettily situated town, with some ruins
in the vicinity. The post-road, after cross-
ing the Rhone, passes the valley of Tenk
or Loeche, situated at the mouth of the
Gorge of the Dala. Pfynn forms the
boundary between the French and Ger-
man languages.
Tour tertutgne. (Hotel 1'oste, Hotel So-
kil.) Near the town is a fine cascade
well worth a visit.
Vispach (Hotel Soleil), a miserable vil-
lage, situated at the junction of the Visp
with the Rhone. In 1855 it was seriously
injured by an earthquake, which left only
seven houses remaining. Excursions may
be made from here to Zermatt and Gornu
Gratt.
Brieg (hotels, Poste, d'Angkterre, and
Trois Couronnts) is a small town of about
800 inhabitants, situated at the base of the
Simplon. The Simplon Road was com-
menced by Napoleon in 1800, on the Ital-
ian side, and finished in 1806 on the Swiss.
At Brieg the ascent of the Simplon com-
mences. In 2i hours, Beresal, the third ref-
uge, is reached. It consists of two build-
ings, a post-house and inn. The portion
of the road between the fifth refuge, Schal-
bet, and the sixth refuge, which is the
summit, is the most dangerous in winter.
About three miles from the summit, which
is 6218 feet above the level of the sea. is
the hospice founded by Napoleon, but not
furnished until 1825. It is a very com-
fortable building, warmed by a heating ap-
paratus, and occupied by monks of the Au-
gustine order. To the south may be seen
the Kant Glacier.
745
ROUTES.
Simplon. Here the road leads through
the Ravine of Gondo, one of the most mag-
nificent among the Alps. The Gallery of
Gondo, the longest tunnel of the Sini]>lon,
measures 683 feet in length. Close to the
issue of the gallery is the Fall of Fressi-
none. Gondo is the last Swiss village.
Issella. Here the Italian custom-house
and passport-office are situated.
Domo d'Ossola (Grand HCtel de la Ville),
a small, uninteresting town, fully Italian
in every respect. There is a Calvary
above the town well worth a visit.
Ornavasso, noted for marble quarries in
its vicinity. The road, after passing the
lovely village of Fariola, soon reaches the
southwest bank of the Lago Magidore.
The Isola Madre of the Berromean Islands
may be seen from this point. The islands
are general!}' visited from Bareno, the next
station.
Stresa. Then Belgirate, -where there
is a fine hotel Hotel et Pension Bdgi-
rate.
Arona. (Alberyo Keale.*) FromAronato
Milan by Novara, time 4 hours ; fare 10 f.
From Lucerne to Como aver the St. Go-
thard. Steam-boat from Lucerne to Fliie-
len four times daily, in 2J hours. Fare 4
f. 60 c. From Fliielen to Como, diligence
twice daily, in 23 hours ; coupe, 37 f. 80 c. ;
interior, 31 f. 90 c. It is very little more
expensive for parties to take a carriage,
which costs about 150 f. for four or five
persons, not including fees, which are giv-
en at each station. For description of this
pass", see Index.
From Coire to Calico (and Milan) over the
Splisgen. Diligence from Coire to Colico
twice daily, in 16 hours. Fare 22 f. 50 c.
Coire (see Index). On the road from
Coire to Reichenau, which leads along the
valley of the Rhine, there is little deserv-
ing the traveler's attention with the ex-
ception of the Calanda Mountain, and, at
at its base, the village Felsberg, partially
buried by a landslide in 1850.
Jieichennii (Hotel Adler") consists merely
of a few houses situated at the junction
of the Vorder and Hinter Rhine. The cha-
teau, the principal building in the village,
formerly belonging to the Planta family,
was, in 1793, converted into a college by '
Burgomaster Tscharner. Here Louis Phi-
lippe, under the name of Chabot, held a
situation as teacher of French mathemat- '
7-itJ
[ITALY.] ROUTES.
ics, and history for eight months. At
Reichenau the road crosses the Rhine and
Vorder Rhine, and then enters the valley
of the Hinter Rhine. The villages of Bo-
naduz and Rhaziins are soon passed, also
the Castle of Rhoetzuns of the YL-le fanir
ily, still inhabited. This part of the val.
ley of the Rhine is chiefly remarkable for
the great number of castles which are tc
be seen in every direction, and for the dif-
ference in the religion and language of
each hamlet. The Castles of Ortenstein,
Vaspels, Canooa, Rietborg. and Rcalta are
passed in rapid succession before reaching
Thusis. That of Ortenstein is probably
the best preserved in the valley, and is still
occupied by the Travers family.
Thusis (hotels, Via Mala and Adler), a
village of 700 inhabitants, picturesquely
situated at the confluence of the Rhine and
the Nolla. After leaving Thusis the Nol-
la is crossed by a fine bridge, which aftbrds
an interesting view of the valley and peak
of Piz Bevexin. About half a mile from
Thusis the Via Mala commences the most
sublime ravine in Switzerland. The road
crosses the river three times. The finest
view is obtained from the Middle Bridge,
about a mile from Rougellen. . The Via
Mala extends for a distance of three miles,
and terminates at the Upper Bridge, where
the road enters the beautiful Schamser
Thai.
Andeer (H-atel Krone) is the principal
village in the valley. The inhabitants are
Protestants, and speak Romansch. Soon
after leaving Andeer the road enters the
Roffla Gorge. The Averser Rhine here
forms the Fall of the Roffla, which de-
scends the Ferrera valley to the Hinter
Rhine.
Spliigen. This little village holds an
important position, being situated at the
junction of the Spliigen and Bernardino
routes. The Spliigen Road turns to the
left, crosses the Rhine, and, leaving that
river, begins at once the ascent, and soon
passes through a short tunnel 90 yards
in length. After numberless windings it
reaches the summit of the Splugen, 6783
feet above the level of the sea. Almost
immediately the road begins tc descend.
About three quarters of a mile beyond the
summit the Austrian custom-house and
passport office are reached. The road re-
commences the descent on the eastern
ROUTES.
[ITALY.]
ROUTES
slope, and passes through three galleries, I mit of the pass is the Lake Moesola, and
the lirst 700 feet long, the second G-i2 feet, near it a house of refuge. After descend-
nnd the third 1530 feet, the longest .caller- ing fur a short distance, the Moesa is cross-
ies on any Alpine road. Near the village ed by the handsome iron bridge " Victor
of Pianazzo a beautiful waterfall, 800 feet Emmanuel," from which a fine view is ob-
nigh, may be seen.
Campo Dolcino is but a miserable vil-
lage, consisting of a few detached groups
tained of the Piz Moesola.
<Sn Bernardino (Hotel Brocco, Hotel JRa~
vixza, and Hotel Mi.tto), the loftiest village
of houses. The Lira valley, through which in the valley of Mesocco. It possesses a
the road now passes, presents a scene of mineral spring, with baths, and attracts a
desolation, occasionally modified by chest-
nut-trees, which hide, in a measure, the bar-
renness of the rocks which surround them.
Chiavenna (Hotel Conradi) was once a
considerable number of visitors. Near the
village St. Giacomo are quarries of gyp-
sum. A fine view is obtained from the
bridge of St. Giacomo of the ruined Castle
flourishing town in possession of the Dukes of Mesocco. The descent now becomes
of Milan, and the ruins of former residences very rapid until we reach Mesocco, a mis-
and palaces of the nobles are still to be seen. ! erable village, but very picturesquely sit-
The Church of San Lorenzo, the Baptistery,! uated. Here the traveler first becomes
and the charnel-houses, in which skulls aware of his approach to Italy by the pres*
and bones are curiously arranged, may be
visited by travelers. About four miles
from Chiavenna is the Fall of Gardona,
ence of vines, chestnut, walnut, and mul-
berry trees. Below Soazza the road passes
along the right bank of the Moesa. Near
which is worth a visit. The road from the second bridge the beautiful waterfall
Chiavenna to the Lake of Kiva is rather; Buffalora is seen.
disagreeable, and the scenery is very un- St. Vittore is the last village in the Can-
interesting. Kiva is situated at the north
extremity of the lake.
Calico (Hotel Piazza Garibaldi), a village
situated at the foot of Mount Legnone.
Steamers three times daily from Colico
to Como. Fare 4 f. ; time 3i hours. Kail-
way from Como to Milan in 2 hours.
From Coire to Magadino, on the Lake
Maggiore (and Milan), over the Bernardino.
Diligence twice daily in summer from
Coire to Magadino. Time 18 hours ; fare
in the coupe, 30 f. 50 c. ; interior, 26 f. 10 c.
The Bernardino route was constructed in ble importance, owing to its situation at
1822, at the joint expense of the Sardinian the junction of four roads from the St.Go-
and Grison governments. The road is the j thard, the Bernardino, from Lugano, and
same as that of the Spliigen up to Splii- from Locarno.
gen. Leaving Spliigen, it advances up the At C-idenazzo the road diverges from
valley of the Hinter Rhine, on the left that which leads to Lugano over the Monte
bank of the Rhine, for a distance of seven \ Cenere.
ton of the Grisons. Soon we enter the Can-
ton Tessin, and the road unites with that
of the St. Gothard Pass. Just beyond the
junction of the Rivers Moesa and Ticino
stands the village of Arbedo, memorable
for the battle which was fought here be-
tween the Milanese and Swiss, in which
2000 of the latter were slain. They were
interred near the Church of St. Paul, called
Chiesa Rossa on account of its red color.
Beltinzona is the chief town in the Can-
ton of Tessin. It is a place of consiJera-
miles, until it reaches Hinterrhein, the
highest village in the valley. The road
over the Bernardino here leaves the Rhine,
immediately begins to ascend, and soon
reaches the summit of the BernardinoPass,
C584 feet above the level of the sea. This
mountain, known to the Romans, and call-
ed Vogelherg down to the 15th century,
owes its present name to St. Bernardino of
AIag:idino (Hi'tel Bellevue) is situated
at the mouth of the Ticino, on Lake Mag-
giore. Steamers leave three times daily
for Arona, performing the journey in 4$
hours.
f'nm Innsbruck to Colico (and Milan) over
th> Stelrio. Diligence from Innsbruck to
Land>ei-k daily at 1 A.M.; time 8f hours.
From Landseck to Mais four times weekly,
Sienna, who first preached the Gospel here, Jin 9 hours. Omnibus daily from Inns-
and to whom a chapel was erected on the
south side of the mountain. On the suru-
bruck to Landseck, and from Landseck to
Mais. Travelers are obliged to hire a vet-
747
ROUTES.
[ITALY.]
ROUTES.
turino to cross the Stelvio, which costs 12
florins a clay, there being no diligence for
the pass.
From Innsbruck the road passes along
the left bank of the Inn for a distance of
seven miles, until it reaches the village of
Zirl, situated at the foot of the Martins-
wand, the precipice upon which the Em-
peror Maximilian I. nearly lost his life
while hunting. On the right of the vil-
lage may be seen the picturesque ruins of
ibs Castle of Fragenstein.
Near Sifz the road passes the Cistercian
convent of Itambs, founded in 1271 by the
mother of Conradin, the last of the house
of Hohenstaufen. About a mile from Silz
is the Castle of Petersberg, the birthplace
of Margaret Maultasch, who brought Ty-
rol to Austria as her dowry. Leaving the
river, the road now proceeds to Imst, a vil-
lage of about 3000 inhabitants, situated at
the base of the Laggersberg. Near Mils
the road again approaches the Inn. It was
here that one of the ambuscades of the Ty-
rolese took place in 1809. Awaiting the
Bavarians on the top of the mountain, they
overwhelmed them on their approach by
hurling trunks of trees and rocks upon
them. The Castle of Kronberg is pictur-
esquely situated on the height of an emi-
nence a short distance from Starkenbach.
Near the nunnery of Zams, founded in
1826, the Inn is again crossed, and we
reach Landeck. situated on its right bank.
On the east of the town are the ruins of the
stronghold of Landseck, and on the north
those of Schrofenstein. The road crosses
to the left bank of the Inn at the Pontlatz-
cr Bridge, but returns to the right bank at
the village of Prutz, situated on a marshy
plain at the entrance of the Kaunserthal.
Jiied, a small but thriving town, is next
passed, and we arrive at Pfunds, which
consists of two groups of houses situated
on either bank of the river. Four miles
from Pfunds begins the Pass of Finster-
miinz, the most imposing defile in Switzer-
land with the exception of the Via Mala.
About half way between Pfunds and Nau-
ders is situated an inn which commands a
beautiful view of the valley and the mount-
ains in the background.
^'mirier.* is about three miles from the
Finstermiinz and three from the Swiss fron-
tier. The road now ascends to the pass
called Reschen-Scheideck.
748
Mais. (Hotel Post.) Near this town is
seen the imposing ruined castle of Lich-
tenberg.
Praa is a small village at the foot of the
Stelvio Pass. Upon a height on the right
is seen the village of Stilfs or Stelvio, from
which the pass takes its name. The. road
over the Stelvio, the loftiest in Europe,
was constructed by the Austrian govern-
ment in 1820-25.
At Gomagoi, where the custom-house is
situated, is seen the Sulden Glacier. Tra-
foi, situated at the base of the Ostler
Mountain, consists of a few huts. The
hamlet derives its name of "Tres Fontes"
from the three fountains which burst from
a cliff in the vicinity. From Franzenshohe
the traveler may look down upon the vast
Madatsch glacier, which descends from the
iilc of the Ostler several thousand
feet into the valley beneath him. Eight
miles from Franzenshohe is the summit
of the Stelvio Pass, 9328 feet above the
level of the sea. A house called Ferdi-
nandsholie stands at the top, the highest
habitation on the Continent. At Santa
Maria, the 4th Cantonicra. is situated the
Italian custom-house. Passing the Can-
toniera al Pinano del Branglio, we come to
a series of galleries or tunnels built to pro-
tect the road from avalanches. Soon the
singular waterfall called the Source of the
Adda is seen bursting from a precipice on
the right. v About a mile and a half from
Bormio are the New Baths. They are
much frequented in the summer months
(see Bormio in Index). The hotel, which
contains 140 bedrooms, is admirably man-
aged by M. Caflisch. These baths may be
reached from Botzen, or from Coire via
Samaden and Tirano, crossing the Bernini
Pass ; from Italy, via Verona and Botzen,
or Lake Como, Colico, and Sondrio. At Lo-
vora. in 1807, a landslide took place, which
completely filled up the bed of the river
Adda, thus causing an inundation which
converted the valley as far as Lovo into a
vast lake. At Lovero the water rose 18
feet, and the traces of the disaster there
are still discernible.
Tirano, a small town containing the old
residences of the Pallavicini, Visconti, and
Salis families. It has also suffered at va-
rious periods from the inundations of the
Adda.
Sondrio, capital of the Val Tcllina, is
ROUTES.
[ITALY.]
ROUTES.
picturesquely situated on the Malero, near
its junction with the Adda.
Mombeffno, noted for the excellent silk
produced in the neighborhood, is situated
in the lower part of the Val Tellina. From
Colico, which is next reached, steamers
traverse the lake to Como, and travelers
thence proceed by rail to Milan.
From Innsbruck to Verona by the Brenner
Past. Railway. Time, 9 hours; fare,
first class, 33 fr". 60 c.
The Brenner is the oldest of the Alpine
routes ; was known to the Romans, and em-
ployed by Drusus. Carriages were able
to pass it in 1772. and in 18C7 the railway
was opened. The scenery is less imposing
than that of any of the other Alpine
passes.
Soon after leaving Innsbruck, the tun-
nel of Isel, 700 yards in length, is passed,
and the railway proceeds along the right
bank of the Sill. Before reaching Matrey
nine tunnels are passed through, the long-
est over nine hundred yards in length.
Station Steinach, a town entirely rebuilt
since the conflagration of 1853. In the
church there are several good altar-pieces
by Knoller. Passing the small lake Bren-
ner, which abounds in excellent trout, we
reach Brenner. The river Sill here falls
into the Inn, and, through it, into the Black
Sea, and the River Eisach forms another
cascade, descends to the Adige, and flows
into the Adriatic. The railway now passes
along the bank of the Eisach, and descends
to >tation Schflloberg.
Station Skrzlny (hotels, Post and Ros?),
a very old town, situated on the Sterzinger
on the site of the ancient Roman
Vipetenum. Population, 2500. It de-
rived much wealth in the Middle Ages
from the rich silver, lead, and copper mines
in the neighborhood. From Sterzing to
Freienfeld the castles of Sprechenstein
and Reifenstein are passed. Beyond Frei-
enfeld, on the left, rise the ruins of Wolf-
enstein, the stronghold of the pass during
the Middle Ages.
Mittewald. Here Marshal Lefebvre,
Duke of Dantzig, at the head of the French
and Saxon force?, was repulsed by the cour-
ageous Capuchin Haspinger, at the head
of his Tyrolese Landsturm. Quite a dis-
tance from the station is the fortress Franz-
ensfeste, constructed by the Austrian gov-
ernmeut in 1838 to command the routes to i
VOL. II. K
Carinthia, Brixen, Verona, and Innsbruck.
A new fortress is about to be constructed.
Pedestrian travelers would do well to as-
cend the Pusterthal from here as far as
Bruncken, and proceed thence through the
Gader and Grodner Valley to Botzen.
To the left, on the Eisach, is Neustift,
founded in 1142, the richest monastery in
the Tyrol.
Brixen, for nine centuries the see of an
archbishop, united to the Tyrol in 1802. It
contains several churches, a cathedral, and
the palace of the archbishop. The cathe-
dral possesses a fine altar-piece by Scbopf.
Station Klausen, a little town consisting
of a single street, is situated in a detile be-
tween the river and the mountain. Above
the town, on the right, is the Benedictine
monastery of Sebcn. Outside the town is
the Capuchin convent founded by the wife
of Charles II. of Spain. The Loretto Chap-
el adjoining the monastery contains the
most valuable ecclesiastical treasures in
the Tyrol. On the left bank of the Eisach,
beyond Station Waidbruck, rises the pict-
uresque castle of Trostburg, the property
of Count Wolfenstein.
At:>ra''ff (Ih'itd Po-te) and Station Blu-
man are next passed before Botzen is
reached. For description of Botzen, see
Index.
Leaving Botaen, the Eisach is crossed by
a bridge, and the train proceeds to Station
Brunzoll, where the Adige first becomes
navigable.
Station Xeitmarl-t. East of this town a
road runs east to the interesting Flumers-
thal.
Station Sa'ttrn. Above the town is a
picturesque castle in ruins, which formerly
commanded the Adige.
Station Lavis, situated on the Avisio,
which here descends from the valley of
Fleims and Fass to join the Adige.
Trent (Hotel Europa, Hotel Corona), the
Tridentum of the Romans, is situated on
the left bank of the Adige. Population,
14,000. It was formerly the wealthiest
and most important town in the Tyrol, and
-i-s numerous ruined castles and
marble palaces to tell of its former great-
ness. The finest building in the city is the
cathedral, founded in 1812, and dedicated to
St. Vilnius. It is built entirely of marble,
and is surmounted by two domes.
Santa Maria Maggiore is the church in
ROUTES.
[ITALY.]
ROUTES.
which the celebrated Council of Trent met
from 1545 to 1563. It contains a painting
of the assembly, with portraits of the mem-
bers, 7 cardinals, 3 patriarchs, 33 archbish-
ops, 235 bishops, 7 abbots, and 146 profess-
ors of theology.
Arco lies three hours' drive from Trent,
by carriage, in a most beautiful country,
one half hour distant from the Lake of
Garda. Principal hotel, and fine summer
residence, Hotel and Kurhaus Arco.
Roveredo, a populous town of 8000 in-
habitants, especially noted for its silk-cult-
ure since the year 1200. There are 60
filatide, mills in which the silk is wound
from the cocoon, and AQfilatorie, spinning-
mills. In the Piazza Podesta is situated
the remarkable Castle Junk. Two miles
from Roveredo is the Castle of Lizzana, in
which Dante, exiled from Italy, was enter-
tained by Lord Castelbarco.
Station Ala, once celebrated for velvet
manufactories.
Station Avio is the last village in the
Tyrol.
Peri is the first village in Italy. The
Valley of the Adige is separated from the
Lago di Gardo in the west by the ridge of
the Monte Baldo. The train now passes
into the celebrated ravine Chiusa di Verona.
Near Pescantina, Solferino, situated on
the Mincio, is passed, noted for the battle
fought here June 24th, 1859.
At St. Lucia the railway unites with the
Verona and Milan line, and soon reaches
Verona.
From Vienna to Trieste by the Semmering
Railway. Express train from Vienna to
Trieste; time, 14 h. 40 m. ; fare, 28 fl.
26 kr.
The terminus of the railway in Vienna
is near the Belvedere and New Arsenal.
^[ijdUng and Baden are the first stations
passed, for descriptions of which, see In-
dex. Leaving Baden, the ruined castles of
Ran hen stein and Rauheneck may be seen.
Beyond Leobersdorf, in the distance, no-
tice the barren summit of the Schneeberg.
Xeiistntlt. Hotels Hirsch and Krone.
Population, 10,800. In 1834 a great con-
flagration took place, leaving only 14 build-
ings standing, since which time the town
has been entirely rebuilt. In 1752 the old
castle of the Babenberg dukes was convert-
ed into a military academy for the prepar-
750
atory instruction of the officers of the line.
Neustadt is connected with Vienna by a
canal 40 miles in length, used chiefly for
the transportation of coal from the mines
of Oedenburg, and of wood from the Ba-
konyerwald.
Gloggnitz. Here the Semmering Rail-
way commences, an enterprise executed
by the Austrian government in 1848-54.
Leaving Gloggnitz, the train ascends the
left bank of the River Schwarzer, and
crosses the Reichenauer Thai to Station
Eichberg, where a fine view is obtained of
the plain and the mountain Gostritz.
Klamm. Above the town is the mined
castle of Prince Liclitenstein. The Klamm
tunnel and the viaducts of Jiigergrabcn and
Gamperlgraben are passed, and Semmering
is reached, the summit of the pass. About
a mile from the station is the Erzherzog
Johann Inn. In order to avoid any far-
ther ascent, the highest part of the Sem-
mering is penetrated by a tunnel 4600 feet
long.
Minzzichlag (Jh'itcl Brilnhauss and
Railway Restaurant), situated on the
Miirz. which river the train now follows.
The scenery from here to Bruck is most
picturesque.
Bnick, a pretty town situated at the
confluence of the Miirz and the Miir.
Above the town rises the picturesque Cas-
tle of Landskron. The line now winds
along the left bank of the Miir, passes the
Castle of Pcrncgg and the stations of Mieg-
nitz and Peggau to Gratz. See Index for
description of Gratz.
Marburg, the second town in Styria, is
next reached a dull place, containing
8000 inhabitants, chiefly Vends, a Sclavo-
nic tribe, the German language now being
entirely replaced by the Sclavonic dialect.
Cilli, an ancient town situated on the
Sann, said to have been founded by the
Emperor Claudius. Roman ruins are still
to be seen in the vicinity. A little dis-
tance beyond the town rise the ruins of
the Castle of Obercilli, formerly belonging
to the Counts of Cilly, who once possessed
all ( 'arinthia. From Cilli to Steinbrucken
is thfi finest scenery of the line.
Sltinlrnrkeii, situated at the junction
of the Save and Sann. The line now trav-
erses the valley of the Save, and passes
the stations Hrastintj, Trefell, Sac/or, Luva,
and Salloch to Laybach.
PESCKIPTIOX.
[ITALY.]
DESCRIPTION.
For Laibitch, see Index.
Leaving Laibach, the line crosses the
marshy plain of Laibacher Moos, and, just
before reaching Franzdorf, passes over a
viaduct 1(500 feet long and 1GOO feet high.
Loituch. Hotels, Paste and Stadt Trieste.
The quiuksilver-minfla of Istria should be
vi>ited from here. A carriage may be
hired for 6 florins. The excursion occu-
pies 22 hours.
Station Rank. Three miles from this
town is the Lake of Zhknitz, remarkable
for the disappearance of its waters for
months at a time, during which interval the
inhabitants cultivate buckwheat in its bed.
Station Adelsberg. See Index.
Near Adelsberg commences the desolate
plain of Karst, a mass of limestone rock
abounding in gorges and caverns, occa-
sionally varied by thickets of brushwood.
A short distance before reaching Trieste
the Chateau of Miramar is reached, the
former residence of the Emperor Maximil-
ian of Mexico. A pleasant excursion may
be made to it from Trieste.
Trieste. See Index.
For description of the Pass of St. Ber-
nard, see Route No. 4, Vol. III., Switzer-
land, and Route No. 204, Vol. II., Italy.
Italy is a peninsula 900 miles in length.
Its breadth, in the extreme north, is about
450, but in the other parts it varies from
40 to 145. It has in point of form not in-
aptly been compared to a spurred boot.
It is bounded on the north by the German-
ic Confederation and Switzerland; on the
northeast by Austria ; on the west by
France ; on the other sides by the Mediter-
ranean Sea. Its total population, from the
last census, is about 28,437,091 inhabit-
ants, all Catholics, with the exception of
about 40,000 Protestants and 25,000 Jews, j
The country in general is mountainous, j
though it contains level districts of consid-
erable extent : the Alps, on the north and
west, stretch in a curved line from Genoa
to the Adriatic Gulf, and the Apennines
run through the whole length of the penin-
sula, projecting many secondary chains, in
one of which is Mount Vesuvius. In Sici-
ly rises the gigantic cone of Etna, the nut
considerable among the volcanoes that be-
long to this division of the globe. Its
height is nearly 11,000 feet above the Ic-wl
of the sea. In Northern Italv arc found
numerous lakes, the largest of which are
Maggiore, Como, and Garda. The princi-
pal rivers are the Po, the Adige, the Arno,
and the Tiber. The Po is capable of nav-
igation, although but little used for that
purpose, owing to the danger arising from
sudden variations in the rapidity of its cur-
rent, caused by its numerous tributaries'
being frequently swelled by heavy rains
and the melting of mountain-snows. The
great quantity of mud deposited by this
river has raised its bed for some distance
from its mouth above the level of the land,
which has been embanked to prevent in-
undation : the town of Ferrara is thirty
feet below the surface of the water.
The climate of Italy is warm and dry ;
during the summer the heat is most intense
on the shores of the Mediterranean and in
the plains of Lombardy, but much less so
on the eastern coast. The soil is in gen-
eral fruitful, particularly that of Lombardy
and the former Kingdom of Naples. Rome,
Florence, Milan, Genoa, Turin, Venice, and
Naples are among the principal towns.
After the fall of the Roman Empire,
which had -extended its sway over the
whole of the known world, Italy came to
belong partly to the Eastern Empire and
partly to the Lombards a tribe of bar-
barians who had taken possession of the
whole of Northern and part of Central It-
aly, which were by them divided into
thirty-six dukedoms. In the 9th century
Charlemagne founded, in favor of his sec-
ond son, Pepin, a kingdom of Italy, consist-
ing of Lombard j r , Bavaria, and Alemannia,
or South Suabia. He had given the Pope
the Exarchate of Ravenna and the Pen-
tapolis, which became the patrimony of St.
Peter. As early as the 10th centurj', Italy,
perpetually convulsed by revolutions, was
divided into innumerable independent
states. From the 12th to the 13th century-
most of the seaports became republics ;
and a great many free towns of Lombardy
united into a confederation. The progress-
ive extension of the Papal States, the con-
quests of the Normans in the south, the
subjugation of Lombardy by the German
emperors, the wars between the houses of
Anjou and Aragon, altered many times the
political division of Italy.
Previous to 1789 modern Italy consisted
of the following states : the Kingdom of
Sardinia, the republics of Genoa and Ven-
751
HISTORY.
ice, the duchies of Modena and Parma,
the Grand-Duchy of Tuscany, the Papal
States, and the Kingdom of Naples. North-
ern Italy, conquered by the French in 1797,
formed afterward the Cisalpine Republic,
which comprised the Milanese, the Repub-
lic of Venice, the duchies of Modena and
Massa-Carrara, and three legations of the
Papal States. In 1804, Savoy, Piedmont,
and the county of Nice formed seven de-
partments of the French Empire. In 1805
the Cisalpine Republic became the King-
dom of Italy, which, successively aggran-
dized by various annexations of territory,
finally consisted, in 1809, of twenty-four
departments. In 1801 the Grand-Duchy
of Tuscany was transformed into the King-
dom of Etruria, but was, in 1808, annexed
to the French Empire, of which it formed
three departments ; while the Papal States,
partly absorbed already by the Kingdom of
Italy, added three more departments (one
of them being Rome herself) to the French
Empire. South Italy continued to bear
the title of Kingdom of Naples, and con-
tained also the two independent principal-
ities of Benevento and Pontecorvo.
The events of 1814 caused the following
divisions :
STATES. CAPITALS.
A'orthern Italy.
Kingdom of Sardinia Turin.
Principality of Monaco Monaco
Lombardo- Venetian Kingdom,
given to Austria Milan.
Central I tali/.
Duchy of Modena Modena.
Duchy of Parma Parma.
Duchy of Lucca Lucca.
Duchy of Massa-Carrara Massa.
Grand-Duchy of Tuscany. Florence.
P;ipal States Rome.
Republic of St. Marin St. Maria.
Smtthern Italy.
Kingdom of the Two Sicilies. . .Naples.
Since 1860, Italy, whose name according
to Metternich's saying had become but a
yeogrdphical expression, forms a compact
kingdom, of which the King of Sardinia
has been proclaimed chief, and which com-
prises all the states before separated, witli
the Papal States (patrimony of St. Peter
and Campagne de Rome). The new king-
dom consists of 69 provinces.
History. Italy, according to Roman tra-
ditions, was first called Sattirnia, from Sat-
urn, who, driven out of Crete bv his son
752
[ITALY.] HISTORY.
| Jupiter, was welcomed there by Janus,
; king of the country, whom he instructed in
j agriculture and letters. Upward of 400
j'ears before the Trojan war a colony of
Arcadians settled in Italy, under the con-
duct of CEnotrus ; hence the name of CEno-
tria given to the country. Italus, one of
his successors, called it Italy. Evander,
driven from Peloponnesus, led thither, to-
ward the 13th century B.C., a second col-
ony of Arcadians, and built the small town
of Pallanteum on the hill afterward styled
Palatine. A short time after this ^Eneas,
at the head of a number of fugitive Tro-
jans, landed near the mouth of the Tiber,
and having married Lavinia, daughter to
King Latinus, built the town of Lavinium.
However all this may be, Italy was, in
the first instance, peopled by various ab-
origines : Hellens, from the Greek conti-
nent, first settled there ; then a colony of
Gauls ; then the Etruscans from the mount-
ains of Rhetia, who formed the most pow-
erful federative state in Italy, when Bello-
vese led there a colony of Ctlts (6th cen-
tury B.C.), and was the first cause of the
decline of that federation, which Rome,
founded since 753, finally subdued. But
the revolution which ended in the expul-
sion of Tarquin the Proud (509 B.C.) and
the establishment of a republic, bereft
Rome of the fruit of her achievements,
and checked her political progress for a pe-
riod of 160 years. During that time the
Gauls in the north and the Samnites in the
south became as strong as the Romans
themselves. But from 391 to 350 B.C.
the Gauls exhausted their forces to no pur-
pose ; then from 343 to 267 Rome, ever
courageous and persevering, subdued not
only the Samnites, but the whole of Central
and Southern Italy, and from 221 to 173
Cisalpine Gaul likewise (with the excep-
tion of a few districts), which became a
Roman province. From that time Italy
has had no other history than that of Rome.
After the fall of the Western Roman Em-
pire, Italy successively belonged to the
Herules (476) ; the Ostrogoths (491 to
552) ; the Greeks (552 to 568) ; the Lom-
bards finally shared it with the Eastern
Empire so that the country was divided
into Lombard, or barbaric, and Greek, or
Roman Italy, the latter being governed by
an exarch sitting at Ravenna.
In 726 the impolitic violences of the
HISTORY.
[ITALY.]
HISTORY.
Greek emperor, Leo III., the Iconoclast,
brought about a rising. The Duchy of
Rome became :i republic under the presi-
dency of the popes, who had however
soon to struggle against both the Lombard
kings and the Greek exarchates : Pope
Stephen III. was obliged to implore the
assistance of Charles Martel and the
Franks. The Lombards in spite of that
extended their dominion southward, and
founded the Duchy of Benevento by force
'of arms ; but their monarchy was destroyed
by Charlemagne (774); the consequence
of which was a fresh division of Italy into
Greek and Frank Lombardy (the latter
henceforth confined to the Duchy of Bene-
vento). The popes, in this state of things,
did not enjoy fullness of sovereignty, but
were dependent upon the emperors.
Soon after the death of Charlemagne,
Italy formed a separate kingdom, to which
was added (843) the imperial crown, long
worn by Carlovingian princes. On the
deposition of Charles the Big (888), Italian
princes (Bere'nger, Guy, etc.) attempted to
have themselves proclaimed kings of Italy.
These princes, after the extinction of the
German Carlovingians (911), preserved
their independence ; but Otho I. (962) re-
vived the sovereignty of Germany over
Northern Italy ; and his successors at-
tempted even the conquest of Greek Italy.
Henry III. (1039 to 1056) rendered more
and more stringent the dependence of the
popes, which Gregorj' VII., pope in 1073,
shook off entirely, endeavoring even to
place papal power above that of the em-
perors by raising the question of investi-
tures (1017 to 1122).
About the same time the Norman con-
querors firmly settled in Greek Italy, after
having driven thence the emperors of the
West and the Lombards of Benevento.
They created there the Kingdom of the Two
Sicilies, constituted as early as 1131, in
favor of Roger I. as a fief of the Holy See.
In 1161 the war broke out between the
Guelphs and Ghibelines of Italy, which last-
ed seven years, and ended in the triumph of
the Guelphs and the expulsion of the Ger-
mans. The Lombard and Tuscan towns,
which had adopted the republican form of
government, were o longer kept in awe
by masters from the other side of the Alps ;
but, on the other hand, most of them
groaned under indigenous tyrants, and
more than once were the popes driven out
of Rome and a republic established.
I!y degrees, however, and through tur-
bulence and revolutions, the destinies of the
country assumed a more settled character.
In 1282, and consequent upon the Sicili'in
I '/ .<] /., the Kingdom of the Two Sicilies
was divided into the Kingdom of Naples
and the Kingdom of Sicily, governed by
two rival dynasties.
Tilings remained in this state until the
year 1504. In the north, Milan, in the
hands of the Viscontis (1277 to 1447) and
of the Sforces (1447 to 1535), became the
metropolis of an extensive duchy. Great
importance was given to Savoy by Count
Vert (Amadeus VI., 1343 to 1383). Ven-
ice became as early as the beginning of the
14th century a conquering power in terra
lirma. The house of Este reigns over Fer-
rara, the Gonzagues at Mantua. Florence
stands supreme among the states of Tus-
cany, and the Medici begin todominate there.
The pope?, after seventy years' exile at
Avignon (1309 to 1378), resumed their foot-
ing in Italy : Albornoz caused the author-
ity of Innocent VI. to be acknowledged by
almost all the ecclesiastic states (1360).
Italy, nevertheless, could not completely
escape a foreign yoke. Vainly did the war-
like Pope Julius II. strive to drive thebarba-
rians out of it. France and Spain contend-
ed for the possession of that beautiful coun-
try ; Charles VIII., Louis XII., and Fran-
cis I. failed in their attempts to subdue it ;
Spain prevailed : mistress of the Kingdom
of the Two Sicilies as early as 1505, sho
turned the Duchy of Milan into a Spanish
province (1540); and, being all-powerful
both in the north and the south, had hot
own way in the political organization of
the remaining states. Venice, however,
preserved her independence. Spain lost
some of her preponderance in the course of
the 17th century, and saw it almost entire-
ly reduced to naught during the 18th.
The Milanese and the Two Sicilies bocame
Austrian possessions (1706 to 1721) : but
between 1721 and 1738 two members of
younger branches of the house of Spanish
Bourbons obtained respectively the sover-
eignty of Parma and the Two Sicilies, on con-
dition, however, that these two states should
never be annexed to the crown of Spain.
The wars of the French Revolution, and
still more those of the empire, altered for
753
HISTORY.
[ITALY.]
HISTORY.
a time the political division of Italy. In
1801 Savoy and Piedmont were annexed to
France ; the Milanese, conquered from Aus-
tria, formed theCisalpine Republic : Austria
received, as a compensation, Venice, with
the continental states attached to it ; a
Spanish prince was made King of Etruria.
After the battle of Austerlitz (1805), and
consequent upon the Treaty of Presburg.
Venice and appendant states were joined
to the Cisalpine Republic, which was then
called the Kingdom of Italy. Genoa was
incorporated with the French Empire ;
the Kingdom of Naples, conquered by the
French arms from King Ferdinand IV., re-
duced to Sicily, was given by Napoleon I.
to his brother Joseph (1806), then to Murat,
his brother-iu-law (1808).
The Queen of Etruria having abdicated
in 1807, her states became part of the
French Empire ; at the same time a por-
tion of the Roman states and the Southern
Tyrol were joined to the Kingdom of Italy
(1809), while Rome herself and the remain-
der of the Roman states were absorbed by
t^je French Empire.
Thus, with the exception of Sicily, where
the Bourbons of Naples still reigned, and
the Island of Sardinia, the only possession
left the house of Savoy, the whole of Italy
was in the power of Napoleon. The north-
western part, as far as the Garigliano (ex-
cept the Principality of Lucca and Piom-
bino, given to his eldest sister Eliza), was
considered as part of the French Empire ;
the whole of the western part and the lega-
tions formed his Kingdom of Italy, admin-
istered under him by his step-son Eugene
as viceroy ; Murat, his brother-in-law, was
King of Naples. The Pope himself had
been dispossessed.
But after the events of 1814 the Con-
gress of Vienna reinstated the Pope in the
whole of his possessions ; to the house of
Savoy were restored Savoy, Piedmont,
Nice, with the addition of Genoa ; Austria
recovered the Milanese, to which was add-
ed Venice, forming the Lombardo- Venetian
Kingdom ; two Austrian princes had Tus-
cany and Modona ; Maria-Louisa, Napole-
on's wife, became Duchess of Parma, and
a Bourbon of the house of Parma Duke of
Lucca. Murat continued a short time in
Naples ; but was dispossessed during the
Hundred Days (1815), and Ferdinand IV.
reinstated.
754
To Austria had been granted the right
to keep a garrison in several places of the
Roman states. That empire swayed the
whole of Italy, and upheld every where
absolute power. It was not long before its
domination became hateful : threatened by
the secret society of the so-called Carbona-
ri, and by the most popular writers : at-
tacked repeatedly (Lv21. 11. and ]S41)
by insurrections violently repressed, it
was for a short time greatly shaken in
1848 ; then Sicily rose against the King
of Naples and proclaimed its independence ;
Naples, Florence, and Turin demanded and
obtained the grant of constitutions ; Rome
became a republic ; Milan and Venice rose
against Austria ; Parma and Modena drove
away their dukes.
The King of Sardinia, Charles Albert,
took the direction of the movement, and
successful!}' opposed Austria for a time ;
but, badly seconded by the Lombard troops,
he was beaten at Novara (March 23, 1849),
and resorted to abdication. The former
state of things was then immediately re-
stored, though the Sardinian states kept
their constitution and Parliamentary gov-
ernment.
Tranquillity was unexpectedly disturbed
in Italy by the sudden invasion of Pied-
mont by the Emperor of Austria (1859).
Repulsed by the King of Sardinia, aided
by the Emperor of the French, beaten at
Montebello, Palestro; Magenta, and Solfe-
rino, he lost Lombard}'. All the princes
who had sided with him were driven out
of Italy. After a vain attempt at a con-
federation, proposed in the treaties of Vil-
lafranca and Zurich, and after the revolu-
tion effected in the Kingdom of Naples by
General Garibaldi, all the states of Italy
(except Venetia, left to Austria, and the
Roman states, where the authority of the
Pope was maintained by France) united in
1860, and Victor Emmanuel, king of Sar-
dinia, was proclaimed King of Italy (March,
1861). Florence was, in September, 18G4,
declared the capital of the new kingdom, to
which Venetia was added in 1866 at the is-
sue of a war in which Italy had been the
ally of Prussia against Austria ; but Rome
was in 1*71 finally declared the capital of
United Italy.
The constitution granted March 4, 1848,
to the former Kingdom of Sardinia, is at
the present day that of the whole country.
HISTORY.
"[ITALY.]
HISTORY.
A Synoptical Table showing the gradual rise of the House of Savoy, reputed the
most ancient reigning house in Europe ; from Humbert (with the White Hands), its
founder, down to tin- present time :
DAVES.
PABKNTAGE.
-*IVE EXTENSION or TEUBUOEY.
1027-1043,
1048-1060,
1060-1072,
or 1080,
1072 or
1103-114s!
1148-1188,
1188-1223,
1223-1253,
Count Humbert
(with the
Hands),
White
Amadeus I.,
Amadeus II.,
of Rudolph III.,
king of the Bur-
gnndiaus,
Son or grandson of
Received from Rudolph Savoy and Man-
rienne, with the title of Count; from
the Emperor Conrad le Salique, suc-
cessor to Rudolph, part of Fan
the Lower Chablais, and the V;il
d'Aosta, aud thus founded the house
of Savoy.
No record.
Humbert,
Nephew to Amadeus Considerably increased the possessions
I., | of the counts of Savoy, and joined
to them the inheritance of his moth-
er, consisting of almost the whole of
Piedmont.
Humbert II., Sou of Amadens II., Added the Tarentese, Vaud, Upper
j Chablais, Suze.
Amadeus III., Son of Humbert II., Savoy made fitat d'Empire by the Em-
| peror Henry V.
Humbert III. (the . Sou of Amadeus III., Took Turin. Barbarossa destroyed
Holy),
Thomas I.,
Amadens IV.,
Son of Humbert IIL,
Suze by fire, when the archives' of
the house of Savoy were reduced to
ashes.
Made Imperial Vicar in Piedmont by
1253-1263, Boniface,
1263-126S, Pierre (petit Charle-
magne),
1268-12S5,
1285-1323,
Philip,
Amadens V. (the Sou of Thomas I.,
Great),
1323-1329, Edward (the Liber-
the Emperor Frederick II. Added
the Bugey, the Valais, and made
Chambery the capital.
Son of Thomas I., i Possession of Turin and Piedmont
i definitively secured (1235).
Son of Amadens IV.. Left no issue.
Brother to Amadens Inherited the comity of Genevoie.
Had been made before his accession
Earl of Richmond and K-
Henry III. of England for services
rendered in his wars against his
barons.
Same as above.
Annexed Lower Faucigny a_nd the town
of Geneva. Had the seigniories of
Asti and Ivrea settled on him by the
Emperor Henry VII.
Brother to Pierre,
Son of Amadens V.,
1880-1343, Aimon (the Pacific), Son of Amadeus V.,
1343-1383,
1383-1391,
1391-1439,
: Amadeus VI. (the Sou of Aimon,
Green Count),
Amadeus VII. (the Son of Amadeus VI.,
Red ConnO,
Amadeus VIII.,
1440-14C5,
14(15-1472,
il472-1482,
j 1482-1489,
1489-1490,
;149tM497,
{1497-1S04,
Louis I.,
Sou of AmadeusVII.
Same as above.
Same ns above.
Added Vaud, Gex, Upper Faucigny,
Valromey, Qniers, Coni, Querasco,
Verrna.
Added Nice and Vintimiglia.
Added Bngey nnd Verceil, and refrain-
d Piedmont (142'.i), which had since
the time of Amadeus the Great been
a separate fief. Created l>uke <if
Sarii'i by the Emperor Sigismund
(1410). Abdicated.
Son of Amadeus Same as above.
VIII.,
Amadens IX.. Son of Louis I., Same as above.
Philibcrt I. (the Son of Amadeus IX., Same as above.
Hunter),
Charles I. (the War- Brother to Philibert Inherited the title of Kintj of Cypr\ts
rior),
Charles II.,
Philip II.,
Philibert II. (the
Handsome),
I., from Charlotte of Lusiguaii.
Son of Charles I., Died ciirht years old.
Son of Louis I., Grandfather to Francis I. of France.
No issue.
755
HISTORY.
[ITALY.]
HISTORY.
DATKS.
NAMES.
PABKNTAGK.
SuooEseivK EXTENSION OF TERRITORY.
1504-1553,
Charles III.,
Brother to Philibert
Despoiled of almost all his possessions
II.,
during the wars between Francis L
and Charle.- V.
1553-15SO,
Emmanuel Philibert
Son of Charles III.,
Served with great distinction as a gen-
(the Iron Head),
eral under Charles V. of Spain, and
'retrained the whole of the dukedom.
1580-1630,
Charles Emmanuel
Son of Emmanuel
Acquired the Marquisate of Saluces;
I. (the Great),
Philibert,
u i- by the Ligwurn proclaimed
Count of Provence. Ceded by the
Treaty of Lyons to Henry IV. of
France, who had invaded the duke-
dom, Bngey, Valromey, and Gex.
1630-1637,
Victor Amadens I.,
Son of Charles Em-
Acquired part of Montferrat, Alba-mi-
manuel,
Tanaro, and the Albesane.
1637-1638,
Pi-aucis Hyacinth,
Son of Victor Ama-
Same as above.
deus I.,
1638-1675,
Charles Emmannel
Brother to Francis
Same as above.
IL,
Hyacinth,
1675-1730,
Victor Amadens II.,
Son of Charles Em-
Acquired Sicily and part of the Dnchy
manuel II.,
of Milan, and then assumed the title
of King. Abdicated.
1730-1773.
Charles Emmanuel,
Son of Victor Ama-
III. as Duke of Savoy; I. as King of
deus II. ,
.Sardinia: became possessed of the
whole of the Milanese by conquest:
received the Novarese "and n feu-
fiefs of the empire.
1773-1796,
VictorAmadensIIL,
Sou of Charles Em-
The Treaty of Paris (179C) deprived him
1796-1802,
Charles Emmanuel
manuel,
Fourth son of Victor
of part of his terra-flrma states.
Reduced to the Island of Sardinia.
II.,
Amadeus III.,
Abdicated.
1 302-1821,
VictorErnmanuelL,
Second son of Victor
Continental states restored (1814) ; ac-
Amadeus III.,
quired the ancient territory of Genoa
and other places. Abdicated.
1821-1831,
Charles Felix,
Brother to Victor
No issue.
Emmanuel I.,
1831-1849,
Charles Albert,
Duke of Cariguan,
Of the collateral branch of Savoy-Ca-
riguan. Abdicated.
King Humbert I., son of Victor Em-
manuel II., occupies to-day the throne as
King of United Italy, with Rome for its
capital. Born March 14, 1844; married
April 22, 1868, to
Hereditary Princess Na.'rie-Marguerite-
Th6rese-Jeanne, Princess of Savoy ; born
Nov. 20, 1851 ; daughter of the late Ferdi-
nand, Prince of Savoy, Duke of Genoa.
Son: Prince Victor -Emmanue - Ferdi-
nand - Marie - Janvier, Prince of Naples,
born in Naples November 11, 1869.
Victor Emmanuel II., the late king,
son of Charles Albert, was born March 14,
1820; married April 12, 1842, to Marie-
A delai'le- Frances -Renier- Elizabeth- Clo-
tilde (born June 3, 1822), daughter of the
late Renter, Archduke of Austria ; a wid-
ower January 20, 1855; afterwards con-
tracted morganatic marriage with Rosa
Vercellena, Countess of Mirafiore. Died
January 9, 1878.
756
Children. ^Ist. Princess Cfofo'&fe-Maria-
Theresa-Louisa; born March 2, 1843 ; mar-
ried January 30, 1859, to Prince Napoleon-
Joseph-Charles-Paul-Bonaparte.
2d. //Mm6er<-Renier-Charles-Emmanuel-
Jean-Marie-Ferdinand-Eugene, the present
King of Italy.
3d. Prince A medee - Ferdinand - Marie,
Duke of Aosta. born May 30, 1845; Lieuten-
ant-General. Accepted, Dec. 4, 1870, the
crown of Spain, offered him by the Spanish
nation ; abdicated Feb. 11, 1873, and re-
turned to Italy. Married May 30, 1867, to
Princess .l/ne-Victoire-Charlotte-Hen-
riette-Jeanne, born August 9, 1847; daugh-
ter to C%ar/es-mmanf J-Philippe-Joseph-
Alphonse-Franoois-Marie, Prince del Poz-
zo della Cisterna, and Louise -Caroline-
Ghislaine, Countess of Merode.
Sons : 1st. Prince Ermnanuel-PhftibeTt-
Victor - Eugene - Albert - Geneva - Joseph-
Marie, Duke of Apulia, born January 13.
1869.
FINANCES.
[ITALY.]
VENICE.
2d. Prince Victor - Emmanuel - Turin-
Jean-Marie, Count of Turin, born Novem-
ber 24, 1870.
:!d. Prince Louis - Amedec - Joseph -Ma-
rie-Ferdinand-Francois, born January ;.!!.
1870.
4th. Princess Marie-Pie, born October
16, 1847 ; married by proxy, September,
then personal!}', October G, 1862, to Louis,
King of Portugal.
BUDGET FOB 1S74:
Expenses (lire or francs) 1,540,862,262
Receipts 1,364,147,325
Showing a deficit of 176,714,yb7
Amount of the nominal capital of the
Public Debt at the expiration of the year
1874 (lire or francs), 9,851,731,566.
Military service is obligatory. The
whole land-force of the kingdom, according
to official return (July 1, 1874), consists of
1st. Standing Army 395,951
'J.I. Reserve 148,004
3d. Militia 279,872
Total number 823,827
The Navy consists (official return, Jan-
uary 1, 1874) of 61 men-of-war and 19
transport-ships, manned by 19,311 seamen ;
and 29,111 merchantmen, fishing -crafts,
etc., manned by nearly 200,000 seamen.
VOL. II. -K 2
ROUTE No. 199.
See Route No. 193.
" The celebrated name of Venice, or Ve-
ncti/i, was formerly diffused over a large
and fertile province of Italy. It was di-
vided into two parts, first and second, of
which the first applied to the mainland,
and the second to the islands and lagoons.
In the first, before the irruption of the bar
barians, 50 Venetian cities flourished in
peace and prosperity. Aquileia was placed
in the most conspicuous station ; but the
ancient dignity of Padua was supported by
agriculture and manufactures. The sec-
ond part, placed in the midtt of canals at
the mouth of several rivers, was occupied
in fisheries, salt-works, and commerce."
Venetia was formerly a celebrated re-
public of Italy; it is now a province of
United Italy. The republic was formed
soon after the building of the city in the
fourth century. The government was at
first democratic, but in 1247 became an
aristocracy ; none could afterward have
any share in it but the nobles : the Doge
A'as the chief executive officer, and was
elected by a plurality of votes by means
of gold and silver balls. In 1797 the city
of Venice was taken by the French, who
instituted a provisionary democratic gov-
ernment ; but soon after, by the treaty of
Campo Formio, the city and territory lying
to the north and west of the River Adigo
was ceded to Austria as a duchy, and also
as an equivalent for the dominions lost by
the Austrians in the Netherlands. Tho
remainder of the Venetian territory was
annexed by the French to the Cisalpine
Republic. In 1805, by the treaty of Pre. c -
burg, the whole Venetian territory was an-
nexed to the kingdom of Italy. It was
once one of the most powerful maritime
and commercial states in Europe. For
this it was indebted, at first, to the mo-
nopoly of the commerce of India, the prod-
ucts of that country being conveyed during
ths Middl.i Ages np the (Itilf of Persia, the
Euphrates, and the' Tigris, as far as l>ag-
dad, thence by land across the desert to
Palmyra, and thence to the Mediterranean
ports. Afterward the supplying of the
757
VENICE.
[ITALY.]
VENICE.
Crusaders on their way to Palestine with
provisions and military stores was an ad-
ditional source of opulence and power.
A1V this declined after the discovery oi the
passage to India by the Cape of Good Hope
in 1486 by the Portuguese.
" The Lombardo-Venetian kingdom was
one of the most valuable possessions under
the Austrian sceptre. The northern part
of this territory is mountainous, the south
flat, forming the plain of Lombardy. The
whole country abounds with rivers, all of
which have a southerly course except the
Po, and all contribute their waters to the
Adriatic. At the foot of the Alpine chains,
in the north of Lombardy, are the lakes of
Garda, Como, Maggiore, Lugano, Iseo, etc.
The shores of the Adriatic are lined wita
extensive lagoons, in the midst of which
is Venice." The climate, except in the vi-
cinity of Mantua and near the Adriatic,
is considered healthy. The thermometer
keeps higher in summer, and, as a general
thing, sinks lower in winter in Lomhardy
than in England ; and more rain falls here
than in any other portion of the Austrian
dominions. In Venice the annual amount
is estimated at 34 inches, and in Lombardy
at 45 inches : the rains are heavier in the
autumn and winter than at any other sea-
son. The spring is considered the most
delightful time to visit this country : cloud-
less skies and a genial climate of course add
much to the pleasure.
Large sums of money are spent in keep-
ing up public education. A larger portion
of the population is educated in the Lom-
bardo-Venetian kingdom than in almost
any other of the Austrian provinces. The
government of Austria in Italy is undoubt-
edly a cold, repulsive, and jealous despot-
ism ; but it is not oppressive, and, in point
of military government, it is not as rigid
as the French. " The greater portion of
this part of Italy, after the fall of the West-
ern empire, was successively possessed by
the Heruli, Ostrogoths, Greeks, and Lom-
bards : the latter held it from 568 till 774,
when Charlemagne annexed it to the em-
pire of the Franks, to which it remained
attached till 888. From that period, ex-
cept the territory of the Venetians, it gen-
erally belonged to the German emperors
till the establishment of the republic of
Milan in 1150. This republic, in 1553,
came into the possession of Charles V. Ven-
788
ice and its territory, which had existed as
an aristocratic republic from the 7th centu-
ry to 1797, was confirmed to Austria by the
treaty of Vienna, 1815, of which it remained
a portion till 1866, when it was ceded to
United Italy through Napoleon III.
VENICE.
On arriving at the station in Venice,
when passing through the entrance, the
v Er
I CE.
2*
23
26
21
28
29
falleria. Corrvr fjftu-ro avico) 30
S^poftoU.
.trsonale
S'.fhancastv itifiwlo
delta Pigna.
Pal.Keale
eanuit
Ktarduu pubblia/
Cuirdaw Papadopob.
S Giorgio Magtjiore
S.Giovanni e fholo
S.Gnjsostomo
$.*ff(if*tci Ajttiio&a..
dfiMiracoli
deU'Orto
deUa Salute
Zobeniao
31
32
33
3+
36
36
37
38
39
+11
+ 1
t2
Grrner
Racari
Fondaco dei Tedesda.
del : Turohe
_ Gnrnani
- Muun
_ Jfan/Hru
- frsaiv
- Ksani
- f&ndramui CbUery/Ju.
S.Pantalevne
folixia,
Ibsta.
frururm efbnte dei S&spirn,
Jl
Omnibus p r . 'la. Strvula fkrr W
Orto botanico
Ospedale curile
Pal.Pucale
S.Saioatore
SocUxi
Scuola, di S Kocco
S Sebasticuw
Saninario
S. Simeons Piccolo
S.Stefano
S.Ketrv di Castetto
S.CiuUano
VENICE.
[ITALY.]
VKMICK.
commissionaires will be seen, who will es-1 which it is situated being dry at low wa-
cort the traveler into the hotel gondola, tcr. Merchant vessels usually moor off
take his baggage -tickets, and procure his
baggage. A small fee for the porter.
Avoid gondola omnibuses.
Venire is a famous maritime city of Unit-
ed Italy, formerly the capital of the repub-
lic of the same name. Population, 128,901.
Hotels : Royal Danieli, de /'Europe, Grand,
Grand Hotel and Restaurant d'ltalie.
The Ih'itel Royal Danieli, on the. Grant
Canal, has the reputation of being one of
the first houses in Europe, and is admirably
fitted up and managed. It has recently
been much enlarged,
very good.
Cooking and service
The Hotel de V Europe, on the Grand at Malamacco, 1J leagues from the city.
Canal, is an old-established first - class
house, enjoying the very best patronage.
The Grand Hotel (formerly .\e>n fork)
occupies a fine position on the Grand ( 'anal,
Salute ; managed by Messrs. Wiirms &
Mclano.
The Grand Hotel d'ltalie, with restaurant
and bath-establishment, is situated on the
Grand Canal, near the Place St. Marc, and
opposite the Church de la Salute ; well
managed by M. Bauer Grunwald.
The city of Venice, formerly called the
" Queen of the Adriatic," is unrivaled as to
beauty and situation. It stands on a bay
near the Gulf of Venice. In this gulf, or
Adriatic Sea, the ceremony of espousing
the Adriatic took place annually on Ascen-
sion Day. It was performed by the Doge,
accompanied by all the nobility and em-
bassadors in gondolas, dropping into the
sea a ring from his Bucentaur or state
barge. This ceremony was omitted for
the first time in many centuries in 1797.
Venice is situated upon 72 islands. Its
peculiar formation renders it singularly
attractive. The islands upon which the
city is built lie in the midst of exten-
sive lagoons, which surround it on all
sides. The access to the city is very
difficult^ a great portion of the lavroon on
the ducal palace ; sometimes, however,
they come into the Grand Canal, which in-
tersects the city. In consequence of the
chain of long narrow islands, which bound
the lagoon on the side next the sea, being
in part broken away, the republic during
the last century was obliged to construct a
mole several miles in length, to protect tho
>-ity and port from storms and the swells
of the Adriatic. This vast work is ad-
mired for its extent and solidit}'. ^ i 3
formed of blocks of Istrian marble, and
connects various little islands and towns.
The principal pilot - station for ships is
There is a bar outside of Malamacco, on
which there is not more than 10 feet of wa-
ter at spring tides. On arriving at the
bar, ships are conducted across it and into
with southern exposure, close to the Piazza ports by pilots, whose services must be
San Marco, and opposite the Church de la availed of.
The Grand Canal, which takes a serpen-
tine course through the city, is intersected
by 146 smaller canals, over which there
are 306 bridges, which, being very steep,
and intended only for foot-passengers, aro
cut into steps on cither side. These ca-
nals, crossed by bridges, form the water-
streets of Venice, the greater part of the
intercourse of the city being carried on
by means of gondolas. The gondola sup-
plies the place of coaches, as carriage and
even horseback riding is wholly out of the
question here, the streets being so very
narrow, not usually over 4 or 5 feet in
width, with the exception of the Meroeria,
which is from 12 to 20 feet across, in tho
centre of the city, which is lined on either
side with handsome stores. The gondola
is therefore the mode of conveyance ; it
cuts its way so rapidly through the water
that in a short time you may be able to
visit every part of the city. They are
long, narrow, light vessels, painted black,
according to an ancient law, containing in
the centre a cabin nicely fitted up with
glass windows, blinds, cushions, etc. ; those
belonging to private families are much
more richly decorated. One gondolier is
generally considered sufficient, and the
price is then four lire per day, but double
that fare for two rowers. The most pleas-
ant and healthy portion of Venice is in
the vicinity of the Grand Canal, which is
759
VENICE.
[ITALY.]
YEWICE.
broad and deep, on either side of which are
magnificent palaces and churches. This
canal, which varies from 100 to 180 feet in
width, is crossed by the principal bridge
of the city, the famous Rialto, which was
built of marble by Antonio da 1'onte in
1591, and, like other bridges of Venice, has
etairs, by which people ascend on one side
and descend on the other. The view from
this bridge is remarkably fine ; the beau-
ties of Grecian architecture meet the eye
of the stranger on whichever side he feels
disposed to turn. It is 89 feet in the span,
and is divided into three parts, a narrow
street running through the centre, with
shops on either side, and two still narrow-
er between the shops and balustrade. Its
appearance is heavy, and by no means
merits the great fame and attention which
it has excited.
The manufactures of Venice are much
more various than many persons suppose.
The Glass-works, situated on the island of
Murano, employing about 400 hands (in-
cluding females, who are engaged in ar-
ranging beads), produces magnificent mir-
rors, artificial pearls, colored beads, etc.
Gold chains, and every variety of jewelry,
is also produced extensively, together with
gold and silver materials, velvets, silks,
laces, and other valuable goods. Printing
is very extensively carried on here ; the
fame which Venice early acquired in this
respect is familiar to every scholar, and
the classics that issued from the Aldlne
presses are still admired for their correct-
ness and beauty. Ship-building is carried
on to some extent both here and at Chioz-
za. The first steam-engine seen in Ven-
ice was set up for a sugar-refinery in 1836.
The Venetians, in the 15th centu^-, at-
tempted new arts at a time when they
were unknown in other parts of Europe.
They also attended to the extension and
improvement of navigation.
The policy of government was fatal to
the progressive advancement of manufac-
tures, although favorable to their introduc-
tion, the severest penalties being inflicted
upon the importers of foreign domestic
commodities into the territory. There was
nothing to fear from foreign competition,
and consequently nothing to stimulate in-
vention or discovery. The Venetian gov-
ernment was so jealous of foreigners that
they issued the severest laws, and also
760
enforced them with respect to their own
workmen. " If any workman carry his
art to a foreign country, to the prejudice
of the republic, he shall be ordered to re-
turn ; if he do not obey, his nearest rela-
tives shall be imprisoned, that his regard
' for them nay induce him to return, which
if he doe?, he shall be forgiven, and employ-
ment again provided for him ; if, in dc-
; spite of the imprisonment of his relatives,
he perseveres in his absence, an 'emissary
shall be employed to dispatch him ;' and,
after his death, his relatives shall be set
| free."
In consequence of having no competi-
' tion to encourage them, the manufacturers
of Venice during the last century wore
more remarkable for their perfection than
the extent to which they were carried.
j In 1830 Venice was made a free port, and
most of the articles for the use of the citi-
zens are admitted free of duty. She also
carries on a considerable trade with differ-
ent parts of Greece. Previous to 1830,
Trieste was encouraged, in point of trade,
in preference to Venice, and still continues
in the ascendency. By far the greater
portion of the import and export trade of
the city is carried on through Trieste by
coasting vessels that are every day pass-
ing between the two cities. Many of the
inhabitants of Venice get their living by
fishing in the lagoon and the contiguous
portion of the Adriatic. Independent of
the fishing-boats, there are about 30,000
tons of shipping, of which a large propor-
tion is engaged in the coasting trade.
Venice was the earliest, and, for a long
time, the most extensive commercial city
in modern Europe. Her origin dates from
the invasion of Italy by Attila in 452.
Many of the inhabitants of Aquileia and the
adjoining territory were compelled to fly
from the ravages of the barbarians to the
cluster of small islands on which the city
is built, opposite the rnouth of the Brenta.
They were then compelled to cultivate com-
merce and its subsidiary arts as a means
of subsistence. In the 15th century Ven-
ico was considered by far the richest and
most magnificent city of Europe, with the
single exception of Rome ; and those who
visited her were impressed with still high-
er notions of her grandeur, on account of
her singular situation in the midst of the
sea. It has been represented as a delight-
VKNII-H.
[ITALY.]
VENICE.
ful place to reside in. At first, no doubt
the novelty gratifies and pleases. but it is
too monotonous to be a favorite residence
for any length of time. The streets being
very narrow, the knowledge that you are
dependent upon boats to carry you about,
and the want of rural beauty, makes out-
weary of the scene. The saltness of the
water and the ehan.-es of tide make it
more endurable than it otherwise would
be. If the water was fresh it would be
uninhabitable. There were formerly no
'springs or wells, and the inhabitants were
compelled to use the water collected in cis-
terns from the tops of the houses ; but in
I.--!" artesian wells were constructed, which
afford an abundant and more agreeable
supply. The Venetians arc improving
their taste for the cultivation of fruit, flow-
ers, etc. Very extensive gardens, con-
structed by the French, excite much admi-
ration, from the peculiar manner in which
they are formed; the serpentine walks,
fine trees, shrubbery, different views of
the islands and lagoons, make this an
agreeable and interesting promenade.
The houses occupied by the upper clos-
es are from three to four stories high, gen-
erally built square, and have two entran-
ce.*, one on the Grand Canal and the other
on the street. Some of the finest palace*
are built of marble ; the rooms occupied
by the family are frequently small and
badly ventilated, in consequence of setting
apart the most desirable portions for the
exhibition of statuary, paintings, and oth-
er works of art. Venice is a very reason-
able place to reside in : rents are low, and
living uncommonly cheap ; society is pleas-
ing and unrestrained, and foreigners are
well received, and arc usually much
pleased. The manners and morals of the
Venetians have been very much mi.-con-
strued and exaggerated, and what was
merely holiday amusement was deemed
by some to l>c corruption of morals.
Piazza >V;n Marco is of an oblong form,
600 feet by 300: it is the only open space
of any magnitude, and, with the piazzetta
leading to it, forms the state entrance to
Venice from the sea. On one side is the
old palace of the doges, on the other the
mint and library of St. Mark : the archi-
tecture is regular, fresh, and modern, and
forms a striking contrast to that of its
neighbors. Two magnificent granite col- :
umns, each of a single block, one bearing
tin- statue of St. Theodore, protector of
the republic, and the other crowned with
the winged lion of St. Mark, stand on the
fourth side of the piaz/etta, on tl.
shore. Public- executions formerly took
place, between these two columns. On
two of its sides are regular buildings with
arcades; on the north is the long row of
buildings called the J'rocuratie I'ecckia, on
the soutli the Prucuratie Auore and Li-
braria Vtcchia. The Piazza and neighbor-
ing buildings are frequented daily at the
hour of two, simultaneous with the striking
of the great cl..ck of the Torre dell Oro-
logio, by a l.trgo Hock of pigeons, which is
fed at that place at the expense of gov-
ernment (so it is said by some authors);
and, although government receives the
credit of it. yet, as the story runs, they are
fed and cared for by the liberality of an
old lady, widowed and childless, who left a
large amount to be expended for this pur-
pose, she having been much interested in
their welfare during her life.
The church of St. Geminianowus former-
ly situated on the west side of the piaz-
zetta, but its place is now occupied by the
staircase of the imperial palace. The
Cnthfilral of 8t. Mark, the Orulgia. ar.d
Campanile stand on the opposite end : there
arc three high poles in front of the Cathe-
dral, from which were formerly displayed
the flags of Morea, Crete, and Cyprus, of
which the republic was mistress about the
middle of the loth century, v hen Moham-
med II., the Turkish sultan, entered Con-
stantinople and placed himself on the throne
of ( 'ontantinc and Justinian. The square,
being the only open place of any size in
Venice, is a celebrated promenade, and is
the scene of masquerades and festivals.
The number of fine private residences is
quite large, mostly built on heavy piles or
ma-.-ive structure; they are, however, with
the exception of those built by Palladio,
Sansovino, Scamozx.i, and a few other emi-
nent architects, devoid of good taste, and
are more remarkable for their gorgeous
style and great display : they are general-
ly a mixture of Kastern. Koman. and Gothic
architecture. Many of the ancient man-
sions have been pulled down, and tl
mostly deserted. The singularity of style
in many of the buildings is peculiarly at-
tractive.
761
VENICE.
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VENICE
Church of San Marco, converted into a
cathedral in 1807, previous to which time
it was the Ducal Chapel, founded by the
Doge Giustiniuni Participazio in the year
829. In consequence of his death it was
left unfinished; his heirs, however, finish-
ed it, and it was destroyed by the confla-
gration of 976. In 977 the present ediii'.-e
was founded by Pietro Orseolo I., the suc-
cessor of Candiano, whose life and reign
terminated at the time of the conflagration.
It was not completed, however, until the
n.'ign of Domenico Contarini, 1043. In
1071 the Doge Domenico Salvo added
many precious ornaments, and mosaics in
particular. It was designed by architects
from Constantinople, and is a mixture of
Grecian and Roman architecture. The
nave is 243 feet in length, the transept 200 ;
the centre dome is 92 feet in height, and
the other four 81 feet each. It is built in
the form of a Greek cross : width of the
front is 171 feet, height 73. Nearly 600
pillars support the decorations inside and
outside of this building ; they were brought
from Greece, and are of marble : it seems
a large number to be crowded into so small
a space. The finishings are in the Italian
Gothic style of the 15th century, but are
not light and graceful ; the scarcity of
windows gives the building a gloomy ap- ;
pearance. In the lower part of the front
are five arched doorways, each adorned
with a double row of little columns ; over :
these arches in the gallery of marble are
the famous Bronze Horses of Chian origin,
carried to Constantinople by Theodosiu?.
from whence they were removed by the
Venetians in 1206, when they plundered '
the capital of the Eastern empire ; they ;
crowned the triumphal arch in the Place 1
dii Carrousel, in Paris, from 1797 to 1815,
at which time they were restored. In the
outer walls are inserted tablets of ancient
sculpture of different nations and ages ;
one on the north side represents Proserpine
in a chariot drawn by two dragons, and
holding in either hand a torch. In the
corner near the Ducal Palace, attractive
from their color and position, is a group of
four full-length figures in red porphyry,
the origin of which is not exactly known.
Five large mosaics are placed over the
doorways : the first on the right is a de-
sign by Pietro Vecchio, executed in 1650 ;
the subject represented is the body of St.
762
Mark being removed from the tomb at
Alexandria. The Last Judgment occu-
pies the next place ; a design, dated 1728,
representing the Venetian magistrates ven-
erating the body of St. Mark. The last,
and probably the most ancient of these
mosaics, represents the church of St. Mark,
Above these are four other mosaics, the
subjects of which are the Taking down from
the Cross, Descent into Hades, the Resurj
rection, and the Ascension. By the cen-
tral portal as you enter the vestibule is a
small piece of reddish marble, indicating
the spot where Pope Alexander III. and
the Emperor Frederick Barbarossa were,
througli the interposition of the Venetian
republic, reconciled on the 23d of July,
1177. The vaulting, and many portions
; of the wall, are covered with rich marbles
I and mosaics ; the columns are of verd-an-
tique and porphyry ; the pavement is com-
posed of small pieces of white and colored
marble, agate, jasper, etc., and is beautiful-
ly arranged. Over the centre door of the
church is a mosaic representing St. Mark
in pontifical robes, executed by the broth-
ers Zuccati in 1545; the Crucifixion oppo-
site by the same ; they also executed the
Eight Prophets, the Four Evangelists, the
Resurrection of Lazarus, and the Annun-
ciation. The magnificent tomb of Cardi-
nal Zeno, from the design of Alessandro
Leopardi, is situated in the Zeno Chapel, on
the right of the vestibule. In the north
corridor is the ancient bas-relief of Christ
surrendered by the twelve apostles, and
the monument of the Doge Marino Moro-
sini. The walls of the interior are of pre-
cious marble. A mosaic of the Virgin of
St. Mark is over the central door ; by the
door, on the right, the basin for holy-water
is placed, composed of porphyry, supported
by a Greek altar. Farther on to the right
is situated the Baptittery, executed in the
14th century ; the granite slab upon which
our Savior is supposed to have stood when
he preached to the inhabitants of Tyre,
brought from that city in 1126, forms the
altar table. The monument of the last
doge, Andrea Dandolo, who died in 1554,
and was interred in St. Mark's, stands
against the wall ; the Gothic tomb was
erected to the Doge Soranza. Chapel of
the Holy Cross by the north transept ; one
of the columns which support it is of a rare
specimen of black and white granite.
VENICE.
[ITALY.]
VEHICB.
Chapd <]fthf Madonna di Mnscnli, at the
end of the north transept, contains the
statues of the Madonna. St. Mark, ami mar-
ble altar from the design of Nicola Pisano ;
it also contains the Hi.-u.ry of the Virgin
in mosaics. Parted from tin- nave by a
rich screen, after the Greek fashion, is the
choir, which, with its divisions, rise in
triple ascent; fourteen statues, executed
by Jacobello and Pietro Paolo dalle Ma-
senge in 1392, surmount it; statue of Christ
in silver is placed over the centre. In the
presbytery is the high altar, supported by
four columns, with Latin inscriptions, and
covered with sculpture ; the events of Gos-
pel history, from the Marriage of St. Anna '
to the Ascension, are inscribed upon the
columns. Eight bronze statues of the four
Doctors, by Sansovino, and the four Evan-
gelists, stand at the sides of the altar. One
of the most attractive features is the Pala
d'Oro, a remarkable specimen of Byzantine
art, the linest that now exists, made at Con-
stantinople in '.'77. under the direction of ,
Do^e 1'ietro Ors?olo. The Doge Ordelofo
Faliero had it repaired in 1100: it was re-
paired again in 1280 by Pietro Zani, and in
1544 by Andrea Dandolo.
The Sacristy, entered by a door at the
side of the altar ; Sansovino was employed
twenty years on this same door. The
roof is covered with rich mosaics, the prin-
cipal of which are St. Theodore and St. ;
George. From the south transept opens a j
door into the Treasury of St. Mark; it is
kept locked, and, unless by particular per-
mission, can only be seen on Fridays at
noon. It contains many precious relics,
rich jewelry, and a piece of our Savior's
dress.
Torre delC Oroloyio, or Clock-tower, sit-
uated on the right as you leave St. Mark,
was designed by Pietro Lombardo in 14;i4.
The two upper stories are decorated with
the Virgin in gilt bronze, and the Lion of
St. Mark. It was struck by lightning in
17")' i. and restored in 1755 by Ferracina of
10. The entrance to the Merceria,
where the principal shops are, and the
most trade carried on, passes beneath this
clock-tower. Beyond the tower, forming
nearly the whole of the Piazza of St. Mark,
stands, upon 51 arches, the Procurntie I'ec-
chie, which was intended for the residence
of the procurateurs of St. Mark, who were
among the most important personages of
the republic. It was erected by Barto-
lomeo Buona da Bergamo in 1516. The
procurator; were honest and good man-
agers. From this body the Doge was gen-
erally elected. The office was for life ;
and on the decline of the republic many
of the offices were sold to benefit the state.
The old nobility paid 30,000 ducats, and
the new 100,000. In consequence of the
increase of numbers, the Procuratie Nuovc
was erected ; it is now the Royal Palace,
and is a rich liae of buildings, fronted aft-
er the Grecian style. At the time the ad-
dition was made to the palace the Church
of San Geminiano was entirely destroyed.
This was one of Sansovino's best works,
and was likewise his burial-place.
Libraria Vccchie occupies the west side
of the Piazzetta, and is united to the build-
ing of the Piazza. It contains a great
manj' valuable books, among which are a
fine copy of Sophocles, Iliad complete, a
great part of Odyssey, and a MS. of Ho-
mer, and nearly all the works of Cicero.
The library was increased to a great extent
by the presentation of valuable works from
Cardinal Grimani, Cardinal Bessarion, and
others. In 1811, 120,000 volumes and
10,000 MSS. were transferred to the line
saloon in the ducal palace from the Libra-
ria Vecchie.
Library of St. Mark, a magnificent struc-
ture of Ionic and Doric architecture. On
the ground floor is a portico consisting of
20 arcades, decorated with columns; in
the interior are arches, many of which are
used for shops. The ornaments in the
hall which contains the books are in stuc-
co, and there are also some fine paintings.
The Mint is situated on the Molo and at-
tached to the library : it also is of the Doric
and Ionic order, and was built in 153<l by
Sansovino. The gold coin of the republic,
the zecchino, derived its name from this
establishment. Titian's Madonna in fres-
co, the figure of Apollo, and portraits by-
Tintoretto, adorn the different rooms.
The square piers of St. John of A ere,
covered with Latin inscriptions dated as
far back as the 7th century, are situated at
the opposite end of the Piaz/.etta : also a
column of red porphyry, from which the
republican laws were promulgated, called
the Pie/ro del Bando.
The Campanile, or bell-tower, near the
Piazzetta and Piazza, is 320 feet high, and
763
VENICE.
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VENICE.
was commenced in 903 ; the belfry was
built in 1509. At particular times the bell
is r-truck liy the watchman, who resides in
it. '1 he whole tower is surmounted by a
high pyramid view magnificent. The
Loggia around the base of the tower is or-
namented by statues of Mercury, 1'allas,
Apollo, and Peace : was built in 1541. Be-
neath the bronze st.itues are two lias-reliefs,
Leander assisted by Tethys, and the Fall
of Helle from the Ram of Phryxus.
Pnltizzo Ducale, or D< g->'s Palace, east of
the Piazzetta. It is open to visitors ev-
ery day. including Sundays, from 9 until 4.
The first palace erected on this spot was
in the 9th century, but the present edifice
was built by the Doge Marino Faliero in
the 14th. There are eight gates by which
it is entered, the principal leading into the
Cortile, around which are two stories of
arcades. A double row of arches support
an immense wall of brick-work, in which
are a few windows. The unity of design
and grandeur of dimensions give an impo-
sing effect to the structure, although many
defects are visible.
Giant's Staircase, a noble flight of steps
erected by A. Rizzo in 1482. leads up from
the Cortile to the Arcade, underneath which
the so-called "lion's mouth" gaped to receive
communications of plots against the state.
It derives its name from the statues of
Mars and Neptune which stand on either
pide of the staircase at the top. The arch-
es and steps are exquisitely inlaid with
marble. The doges were crowned at the
head of these stairs. The statues of Adam
and Eve are considered magnificent spe-
cimens of the Veneto - Lombard school.
Busts of celebrated Venetians, such as
Tintoretto, Lazzaro More. Enrico Dando-
lo, Marco Polo, etc., are placed round the :
upper colonnade. In the court-yard are j
two bronze openings of wells, one executed
in 1559, the other in 1556. Left of the Gi-
ant's Staircase, a facade of two stories forms
a side of the Corte di Senator! ; opposite
the top of the staircase is an inscription
commemorating the visit of Henry III. of
France to Venice in 1573; on the left of
the Corridor Loggia, by which three sides
of the court are surrounded, is the Scala
d'Ora, or great staircase. The S/anze
dffj'i Avroyndori, just l>eyond the staircase,
is where was preserved in former times
the roll of Venetian aristocracy. A sec-
764
ond flight of stairs farther on leads to the
library ; through the door on the left, after
i^c.-nding the t-tairs, you pass into the suite
of rooms on the Molo and Piazzetta : the
first room, or antechamber, is tilled with
books ; from this yon enter into the read-
ing -room, which contains 10,000 choice
M>S. and many line miniatures. It con-
tains also the first book printed in Venice,
in lit!:'. <"/ ,<, nd j\imi itiriit ; the will of
Marco Polo, 1373; and many other rare cu-
riosities. The door opposite the antero< m
lead* into the Sola del Maggioi* Con.-i'j '< ';
the hall, 17 (i ft. long, 85 ft. broad, and 52
ft. high, is very mavniticent. It was paint-
ed by Tintoretto, Paul Veronese, Titian,
and Bellini. After its completion in 1:;:U,
that and the adjoining one, Dello Scrutiny,
were destroyed 1 y lire in 1577. It is now
the Bibliotheca di San Marco, and is open
from nine until four everyday (except cer-
tain feast-days), including Sundays. '1 he
paintings which adorn this hall of the
Great Council are among the earliest ;:nd
largest specimens of oil-paintings on can-
vas.
At the east end of this hall is the im-
pressive and magnificent painting of Par-
adise. It is immensely large, 84 feet in
width and 33 \ feet in height, painted by
Tintoretto ; also the Embassadors meeting
Frederick II. at Pavia, praying to him
for restoration of peace to Italy and the
Church; the second Conquest of Constan-
tinople by the Crusade rs and Venetians in
1201 : the great naval battle which took
place in Istria at the time the imperial
fleet was defeated, and Otho, the emper-
or's son, taken prisoner ; Pope Alexander
III. discovered secreted in the Conventof
La Carita, when escaping from Frederick
II. in 1177 ; the Pope presenting the light-
ed taper to the Doge ; the Doge departing
from Venice, and is receiving the blessing
of the Pope ; the Emperor submitting to
the Pope ; Alexis Comnenus, son of the
dethroned Emperor of Constantinople, im-
ploring the Venetians to aid him in his
father's behalf; the return of the Doge
Contarini, after the victory gained over the
Genoese at Chioggia in 137* by the Vene-
tians ; Paul Veronese's painting of .Venice
amid the clouds crowned with glory, near
the great picture of Paradise : an oblong
painting by Tintoretto, divided into two
parts : in the upper portion Venice is rep-
VENICE.
[ITALY.]
VEKICE.
resented among the deities ; below is the
Doge da Ponte and senators receiving from
the cities the deputation who wi.-h to ten-
der allegiance to the republic : the cele-
brated frieze of portraits of the 72 doges
around the hall, commencing from the
year si;<.. \vith the span- which should have
"been occupied by Marino Faliero covered
by the black veil, and on it the well-known
inscription : these were mostly painted by
lintoretto.
.' </ I 'ft Xcrutinio, connected with the
hall by a corridor : the 41 nobles were
elected formerly in this hall, and they nom-
inated the Doge. The large painting,
which is situated opposite to the entrance,
represents a triumphal arch erected to Fran-
cesco Mon.ini. Bunuunod II Peloponessi-
aco. in 1G94; opposite to this arch is one
of Palma Giovane's finest works, the Last
Judgment. The portrait of the last doge,
Ludovico Manini, has been placed in this
apartment, in which the frieze was contin-
ued and concluded. In the middle of the
ceiling is a historical painting representing
the capture of Padua from the Carraras in
1405. Returning to the spot from which
we entered the library is a door on the left
which opens into the Archa>ological Mu-
seum: the first room contains many an-
cient marbles, such as Esculapius at the
baths of Abano, etc. Next to this hall i<
the Camera degli Scarhiti. where were kept
the scarlet robes of the ^[aggior Consiylio :
the chimney-piece, which was executed in
1490 for Doge Barberigo. is very attractive.
The Doge Loredano, at the Virgin's feet,
is placed over the door.
Sola ddln Scu<l\ deriving its name from
the Doge's coat of arms being placed here
at the time of the election : maps drawn
by the great geographer Ramusio, in the
16th century, are placed upon the walls :
the Mappe Monde of Frate Mauro, a monk
of the convent of St. Michael, is now among
the collection : it was composed for Al-
phonso V.. king of Portugal. Another cu-
riosity i* tho Turkish map. in the form of
a heart, by Hadji Mahomed in 1559: also
the block which it was struck from, cap-
tured by the Venetians in a galley in which
it was found. At tho entrance of the Sala
della Bussola, the anteroom of the Council
of Ten. is the Lion's Ifouth, celebrated for
being the receptacle of the "secret denun-
ciations."
The Chapel, which was merely used as a
private oratory, is noted for little besides
the altar and a Madonna and Child : the
only fresco painting remaining in Venice
is by Titian, and placed in the stairway of
this chapel, tiakt del CuUeg:o, in which
foreign embassadors were received by the
Doge and his privy council. Ante Collegia,
containing four of Tintoretto's best paint-
ings the Forge of Vulcan, Mercury and
the Graces, Ariadne crowned by Venus,
Pallas driving away Mars.
Sotto Piombi, formerly used as prisons,
in which Jacopa Casanova was confined in
1775. Gloomy and intricate passages lead
you to the Pozzi, or dark cells, a descrip-
tion of which is given in the notes to the
fourth canto of Childe Harold. The canal
called the Rio del Palazzo separates the du-
cal palace from the public prisons, which
were built in 1587, by Antonio da Pontc :
more than 400 prisoners can be accommo-
dated in these buildings.
Ponte de' Sofpiri, or " Bridge of Sighs,"
immortalized by Byron in the fourth canto
of Childe Harold:"
"I Htoud in Venice, on the Bridge of Sighs;
A pnlace and a prison on each hand :
I saw from out the waves her structures rise,
As from the stroke of the enchanter's wand :
A thousand years their cloudy wings expand
Around me, and a dying j:lory smiles
O'er the far times, when many a subject land
Look'd to the winged lion's marble piles,
Where Venice sate in state, throned on her hun-
dred i.-le.-."
Criminals were conveyed across this bridge
to hear their sentence, and from there led
to their execution ; from this it derives its
melancholy but appropriate name.
The fifth bridge which crosses the canal
conducts you to the Ar.tenal. It opens
upon the port near to St. Mark's, and occu-
pies an island nearly three miles in circum-
ference ; it is defended by lofty walls. In
front of the entrance, which is guarded by
two towers, are four lions brought from the
Piraeus- the winged lion still frowns defi-
ance over the gateway. Among the manv
line establishments belonging to the Arse-
nal is the Rope-hf use. 1000 feet in length.
Placed in the Armory is a beautiful monu-
ment representing Fame crowning the Ve-
netian admiral Angelo F.mo. by Canov.i.
The Armory contains many curiosities,
such as helmets and shields belonging to
Venetian soldiers in the ancient times ;
cross-bows, quivers full of arrows ; the com-
765
VENICE.
[ITALY.]
VENICE.
plete suit of Henry IV. of France ; spring-
pistols, etc. ; also a model of the Bucentaur
used ;it thi' espousals of the Adriatic. The
L>i:y;nia dfl Marc, located on the point of
land which divides the Grand Canal from
the Giudecca.
Among the palaces in Venice, many are
very attractive. Palazzo Foscari, erected
at the latter part of the 15th century, by
the same architect as the Doge's palace.
Francis I. was lodged here in 1574. The
history of the Doge Foscari and his son
must be familiar to every one; the lan-
guage of Byron beautifully expresses the
feeling of the son while gazing upon the
land of his birth from his prison window :
11 My bountiful, my own,
My only Venice 'hi* it brtath .' Thy breeze,
Thine Adrian .sea-breeze, how it fans my face .
The very winds feel native to my veins,
And cool them into calmness : how unlike
The hot gales of the horrid <'ycl.-nles,
Which liowl'd about my Ctmdiotc dungeon, aad
Made my heart sick."
Palazzo Pisani a S. Polo, in Arabesque
Gothic style, built early in the 15th cen-
tury. The celebrated " Family of Darius,"
purchased for 14,000, was in this palace;
the Kffup of Icarius and Doedalus, by Ca-
nova, the execution of which so rapidly
raised his reputation, is still here. The na-
val commander, Vittorio Pisani, died in
1380, after saving the republic from great
peril by his skill and bravery. Palazzo
Grimani, now the post-office. In the Gri-
mani family were two doges, Antonio and
Marino. In 1595, at the time of the elec-
iion of the latter, hie duchess was inaugu-
rated in splendid style, according to the
Venetian custom ; she was clothed in gold
cloth, wore a gold crown, and was brought
to the Piazza of San Marco in a bucentaur,
where she was saluted with peals of artil-
lery and martial music. She was present-
ed with the golden rose, blessed by the
pontiff every year, by Clement VIII. ; it
was afterward taken from her by order of
the senate, and placed in t!ic treasury of
St. Mark. Palazzo Manfrini formerly con-
tained, with the exception of the Academy,
the finest collection of paintings in Venice ;
the best of them were sold in 185G. One
of its gema is now in possession of F. P.
James, Esq., N.York. Palazzo Moro, on the
(.'ampo del Carmine, the supposed residence
of Cristoforo Moro, the Othello of Sluik-
speare. The house formerly occupied by
76G
Shylock has been converted into a govern-
ment pawnbroker's establishment. Palaz*
zo Grimani a A'. Maria Formosa is remark-
able for containing the colossal statue of
A^rippa, which was formerly in the Pan-
theon at Rome.
One of the most remarkable palaces of
the 15th century, adorned in the Eastern
style, is the Casa d' Oro, now occupied by
Mdlle. Taglioni. Palazzo del Polo: here
resided the celebrated traveler of the 13th
centurj', Marco Polo : he was taken prison-
er at Curzola by the Genoese, and died here
in 1323. Tintoretto 's house was situated on
the quay of the Campo dei Mori, and Ti-
tian's opposite the island of Murano, at a
place called Berigrande.
CHURCHES.
Santa Maria Gloriosa de 1 Frari, designed
by Nicolo Pisano in 1258. As we enter to
the right is the monument of Titian, raised
at the personal expense of the Emperor
of Austria. Charles V. intended to have
erected a tomb over the remains of this
great painter, but it was left to the Emper-
or Ferdinand I. to carry out the idea. The
monument was first exhibited in 1853.
There is a massive basement, on which
rises a canopy decorated in the Corinthian
style, under which is a statue of the paint-
er seated, and crowned with laurel ; there
are small statues on either side, and on the
basement four others one bearing the in-
scription " Ttiiano Monumtntum erectnm sit
Ferdinandtu /., 1839." Immediately op-
posite to this is the monument erected in
1827 to Canova ; the design is a duplicate
of one executed by himself for the Arch-
duchess Christina at Vienna : its beauty is
only rivaled by the original design. The
most conspicuous monument in the church
is that erected to the memory of the Doge
Giovanni Pesaro in 1659. Moors and ne-
groes in black marble, robed in white, sup-
port it; the Doge sits in the centre. Over
a door of the church, beyond the altar, is
a case supposed to have contained the re-
mains of Francisco Carmagnola, executed
in 1432 at Venice : it is now believed, how-
ever, that his remains were carried to Mi-
lan. The tomb of Doge Nicolo Tron, who
died in 1472, is composed of six stones, or-
namented by 19 full-length figures: it is
70 feet in height and 50 in width. The
monument of Benedetto Pesaro, the Ven-
VENICE.
CITALY.]
VENICE
tian general, decorates the door of the sac-
risty ; in the sacristy is a very beautiful
painting by Bellini, of th Madonna and
three Saints: it also contains the Cruci-
fixion and Burial of the Savior in high re-
lief. Over the Pesaro altar, in the chapel
of St. Peter, is a painting by Titian, repre-
senting the Virgin seated in a lofty p tui-
tion, surrounded by magnificent architect-
ure, with our Savior in her arms turning
to St. Francis : St. Peter with a book ; be-
neath, five members of the Pesaro family
are kneeling to the Virgin. It is said for
this work Titian received 102 golden duc-
ats.
Church of Santa Giovanni e Paolo was
commenced in 1246, and completed in 1390.
It is 330 ft. long, 140 ft. wide l*tween the
transept, '.(() ft. in the body, and 120 ft. high :
the principal objects of interest arc tho
monuments and paintings. The monu-
ment of the Doge Leonardo Loredan was
erected to his memory as a tribute of es-
teem for the merits of one of the most pru-
dent princes of Venice.
One of the finest monuments in Venice
is that of the Doge Andrea Vendramin :
the style is dignified, and the invention
graceful. The statue of the Doge upon his
bier would appear to represent him sleep-
ing instead of having passed into "the
undiscovered country from whose bourne
no traveler returns." The tombs of the
General Dionigi .Naldo and Nicolo Orsini,
count of Pittigliano, both in the service
of Venice against the league of Cambray,
Were erected at the expense of the repub-
lic. A marble group representing Vittore
Capello receiving the baton from St. Elena.
In the north transept, the painting of St.
Peter Martyr, by Titian, formerly hung ; it
Mas considered one of his best works, but
was lately destroyed by fire. There are
also several paintings by Tintoretto: the
Holy League of 1570, Battle of Lepanto,
the Crucifixion. The painting of Mary
Magdalene washing the feet of our Savior
is very attractive. In front of the church,
on the Campo, stands the statue of Barto-
lomeo Colleoni, designed by Andrew Ver-
rocchio. who it is said died of grief in con-
sequence of the mould being a failure,
and his inability therefore to complete the
etatue.
Church of Santa ^faria dtlla Silute, the
most beautiful in Venice, was erected as a
; monument of thanksgiving after the dis-
appearance of the pestilence in KS30, at
which time about 00,000 inhabitants died.
Many splendid works of art decorate the
interior; Titian's celebrated picture of the
Descent of the Holy Spirit ; also the Evan-
gelists and Doctors of the Church, Titian
himself representing the figure of St. Mat-
thew. Tintoretto's Marriage of Cana, and
Pandovino's Madonna della Salute, are
among the finest specimens. The Oratory
contains the tomb of Sansovini, whose re-
mains were interred here after their re-
moval from the church of S. Griminiano,
where they had lain for over 250 years.
The altar is a magnificent piece of sculp-
turing : it consists of a representation of
the Virgin and Child; St. Mark on one
side, and St. Justinian on the other; an
allegorical ligure of Venice kneeling to an
ani:i-l who is driving away a figure of the
plague. V)n each side of the altar is a flag
and pacha's tails taken from the Turks.
There are also two old crutches standing
up on the right of the altar: it is related
that in 1857 an old woman, known to have
been lame for years, came a long distance
to make her confession in this church, in
the midst of which her lameness departed,
j and she went on her way rejoicing. The
court-yard of this church is arranged in a
very ingenious manner for filtering water.
There are a large number of other
churches which contain many very inter-
esting objects ; hours, 6 to 12, free.
Accademia delle Belle Arti, open from 9
to 3 every day. It is located in the build-
; ing which was formerly the Convent of la
Carita. The only portion of the building
which is left to represent the great study
spent upon it by Palladio is the Tallino,
', or square hall, now used as one of the
! drawing-schools, formerly the sacristy of
the church. In the Sola delT Assumtu is
the great painting by Titian, wherein he
has displayed his greatest talents in color-
! ing, arrangement of drapery, illustration
of character, and magnificent attitude, the
! Assumption of the Virgin ; it was purchased
! from the friars of the church of the 1'rari,
| over the altar of which it was formerly
I placed. It is a powerful effort of this
great painter, considered beyond any of
his other works.
Titian, or TizlanD Vicelli, " was born at
Cadore, on the borders of the Friuli, A.D.
767
VENICE.
[ITALY.]
VENICE
1477. He studied with Sebastiano Zuccati,
afterward with Gentil Bellini, and finally
with Giorgione ; lie stands at the head of
the Venetian school, and is acknowledged
the greatest colorist the world has ever
seen. His palette was extremely simple ;
the colors which he used being few in
number, and very pure and decided in tint.
His mode of painting has never been un- j
derstood or imitated; he has enchanted the ]
world by his wonderful effects, and made ;
many artists throw down their pencils and [
palettes in perfect desperation. His figures
have an air of superb repose, but in some
of his earliest works were not perfectly
drawn. He was doubtless the greatest
painter that ever lived ; was also a fine
landscape painter, and was one of the first
to make it a separate art. He was one of
the most laborious of artists, and continued
to paint until his death, which took place
in Aretino in 1576." In this saloon are
also two other pictures by this celebrated
artist, the "Visitation of St. Elizabeth,"
painted when he was 14, and the I> -p<:si!rm,
when at the advanced age of 98 ; the cele-
brated Assumption was painted in his prime
so we are afforded at the same moment
the privilege of beholding \\isjlrst, last, and
best work. In the picture of the Presenta-
tion in the adjoining room there is a life-
size portrait of his mother selling eggs.
The painting of St. Mark staying the
Tempest is full of historical interest, and
considered one of the best works of Gior-
gione. A fine picture by Bellini, repre-
senting the Canal near San Lorenzo, in
which the Cross was dropped, and from
which it was recovered. Our Lord visit-
ing the house of Lev! is a large picture,
and the subject nicely expressed by Paul
Veronese. Another highly interesting
painting is the Presentation of the Ring to
the Doge by the Fisherman.
Schools those of San ^farcr> and San
Rocco are the most important. Tintoretto
continued to paint in the latter for 17
years ; some of the walls are entirely cov-
ered with his paintings. His gre;.to>t work
is the Crucifixion.
Giacomo Robusti Tintoret was the son
of a dyer (tintoretto), from whence he de-
rived his surname, and was born in Venice
in 1512. He was a pupil of Titian's, who,
fearful of having in him a redoubtable
rival, sent him awav. He studied then
768
alone, proposing to himself to unite the de-
sign of Michael Angela \tith the coloring
of his old master. He always succeeded
in giving to his figures a life-like move-
ment. His portrait of himself, and his
Susanna at the Bath, are in the gallery of
the Louvre at Paris, lie died in the 82d
year of his age, and was buried in the
church of the Madonna dell' Orto in 151)4.
MI/SPO Corrtr. This collection of curi-
osities will be found worthy of a visit.
Theatres. L'l Fenice is the principal. It
is a large building, capable of containing
2500 persons. There are several other
theatres, but nothing very remarkable, the
drama being in a very low state in Venice.
Charitable institutions are quite numer-
ous, and do an immense deal of good.
There is one house in which 700 poor peo-
ple are lodged, an orphan institution for
335 children, hospital to accommodate 1000
patients, house of education for 90 girls, a
foundling hospital, etc.
The Cemetery is situated on the island
of Murano. The rich and poor, nobles and
beggars, are buried here together. The
expenses of burial for the poor arc defray-
ed by government. A gondola is used to
convey corpses.
The price of a gondola per hour is 1 fr.
with one rower, 2 frs. with two rowers.
There are upward of 4000 in Venice.
Among the excursions is that to the
lovely island of Lido, one of the finest wa-
tering-places in Italy. This historical
spot is only ten minutes by gondola from
Venice, being the nearest of those long-
stretched shores which divide the sea from
the lagoons. It is nearly ten miles long,
and a little over half a mile wide. A most
exquisite sandy beach, smooth as velvet,
the entire length of the island, runs far
into the water. There is a beautiful pier,
650 feet long, built in the sea, on which
are placed 400 bath-houses, from which
you descend by stairs into the water.
The Palazzo Treves contains the last
great works of Canova, viz., his Hector and
Ajar, bought by the present owner for
100,000 francs. One ntillion has been of-
fered for them by an American gentleman.
The palaces of Vendremin, Pesaro. and Fini-
Wimpfcn are shown from 9 to 10 A.M.,
and from 3 to 4 P.M. ; fee to the domestic,
1 franc.
Venice is not without her streets ; there
VENICE.
[ITALY.]
is access by land to every house : thou-
sands of little alleys, some of them not five
feet wide, anil innumerable bridges, unable
the great mass of the people to go about
their business, as in other towns, through
the streets. Gondolas are but the equiva-
lent of hackney-coaches in other cities.
In Venice, as elsewhere, an honest valet
de place will save you much in the way of
fees. An intelligent guide will be found
in Antonio Baldissera, who speaks English,
French, German, and Italian, and who may
be seen at the hotels ; also Roch Jocpass,
Cafe Soizero.
Excursions should be made to Lido (by
steamer in summer), a half-hour's distance;
also to the island Murano, 1% miles north
of Vienna. The Cathedral is a very inter-
esting building.
The 1'eninsular and Oriental steamers
sail every Saturday for Egypt and the
East Indies.
Bankers. The principal banking-house
and exchange-office in Venice is that of
Messrs. Th. IJeitmeyer & Co., convenient-
ly situated on tlie Piazza .Sail Marco, 7lA
lloyul Palace, Ueading-rooni, register, etc.
Druggist. A good druggist is Fumci-
galU, rewarded at Paris Exposition of '78.
His shop is at the Ponte delle Ostreghe,
Via 22 Marzo.
Venetian Laces. This industry, protect-
ed by the Queen of Italy, employs over 2500
women in Venice and the environs, whose
wages being lower, cheaper lace is made
than elsewhere. The best house is Jesurmn
& Co. .4292 St. Filippo Giacomo, near the
Bridge of Sighs, where not only an immense
stock of the most varied laces is kept, priced
in plain figures, but the girls may also be
seen at their work. Here can be seen the
reproduction of old lace, by a system in-
vented by Mr. Jesurum, an immense stock
of which is kept, from the 15th century
downward, and which is subsequently sold
to customers at very low rates, after repro-
duction. The beautiful polychrome, or
many-colored, lace also an invention of
this house is made here. In addition,
there is an immense choice of veils, shawls,
Venetian mantelets, cravats, handkerchiefs,
chemises ; all kinds of sets for the neck for I
ladies and young ladies : all kinds of furni- :
ture laces, curtains, bed-covers, mantel-
pieces, antimacassars, toilet-covers, in an- j
cient and modern style, elegant and origi- |
nal, suitable for presents, and to s..
purses.
Tourist Office. Messrs. Gondrand freres,,
1098 Campo Stun Gallo, close to Piazza San
Marco, are agents of the principal steam-
ship companies, ship goods, give informa-
tion, and cash circular notes and letters of
credit.
Venice to Vienna, via Udine and Ponte-
bra, in 24 h. 55 in. ; fare, 72 frs. 40 c. ; this
is the new route finished in 1882, bj- which
the traveler now avoids the detour to Tri-
este.
Venice to Paris. Time, 34 h. 10 m. ;
fare, first class, 148 frs. 95 c.
Venice to London. Time, 42 h. 10 m. ;
fare, first class, 221 frs. 45 c.
Venice to Turin. Time, 11 h. 30 m. ;
fare, first class, 48 frs. 75 c. ; second class,
34 frs. 70 c.
Venice to Milan. Time, 7 hours; fare,
first class, 31 frs. 80 c. ; second class, 22
frs. 80 c.
Venice to Verona. Time, 3 h. 1 m. ; fare,
first class, 14 frs. 30 c. ; second class, 10 frs.
40 c.
Venice to Trieste. Time, 7 h. 41 m. ;
fare, first class. 27 frs. 25 c. ; second class,
20 frs. 5 c.
Venice to Bologna. Time, 4 h. 20 m. ;
fare, first class, 19 frs. 45 c. ; second class,
14 frs. 45 c.
Venice to Brindisi. Time, 24 hours ;
fare, first class, 104 frs. 85 c. ; second class,
74 frs. 35 c.
From Brindisi to Alexandria (Egypt),
300 frs. Steamers leaving Brindisi on
Monday at 5 A.M. arrive at Alexandria
on Thursday morning.
760
PADUA.
[ITALY.]
PADUA.
ROUTE No. 200.
Venice to Milan, via Padua, Lake Gctrda,
Verona, Brescia, and Bergamo^ Time, 6 h.
41 m. (express) ; fare, first class, 31 fr. 80 c. ;
second class, 22 fr. 80 c.
PADUA.
Padua is finely situated on the Bacchi-
glione, several branches of which flow
through the town. Hotels, Aquila d'Oro,
La Stella d'Oro, and Croce d'Oro. Pop-
ulation, 52,000. Padua is the most ancient
city of the north of Italy. It abounds in
tradition, and its foundation was ascribed to
Antenor, after the siege of Troy. It was
taken by Alaric, Attila, and the Lombards,
but restored by Charlemagne to its former
grandeur, and under his successors it be-
came flourishing and independent. It came
into possession of the Carrara family in 1318,
and was united to the Venetian territory in
1-J05. It is a bishop's see, and the seat of
the superior judicial courts. The appear-
ance of the city is very singular : large
portions of irregular unoccupied ground,
situated on the outskirts, add to its pecul-
iarity. The houses are supported by rows
of pointed arches : the city is of a triangu-
lar form, surrounded with walls and inter-
sected by canals. It has a low, marshy
situation, at the tenninus of the Canal of
Monselici, between the Brenta and Bacchi-
glione. Travelers are generally much dis-
appointed in the appearance of this city, it
770
being very damp and exceedingly gloomy ;
the streets are narrow, unclean, and very
monotonous ; they are bordered by arcades,
and have no leading thoroughfares.
Padua contains nearly 100 churches,
which are the principal buildings in the
city.
The Dunmo was nearly two centuries in
progress of building, and was not completed
until 1755; it contains some monuments
of interest, also a few paintings, and quite
a number of frescoes.
Church of San Giustina: the first build-
ing was destroyed by an earthquake in
1117; it was rebuilt in the 13th century;
the present structure was commenced and
finished in the 16th century. All that is
left of the ancient edifice is represented in
the two lions which stand in front of the
present building. It possesses a precious
relic in a fine painting by Paul Veronese.
It is said the bones of 3000 saints are here
deposited.
The Church of Sanf Antonio is singular-
ly constructed, somewhat in the Oriental
style : it has eight cupolas. It was erect-
ed in 1231 by the citizens of Padua, just
after the death and in honor of their patron
saint. The interior of this church is very
elaborately decorated; the exterior is by
no means attractive, with the exception of
the towers. The Chapel of the saint is
adorned with a curious series of sculptures :
it is illuminated day and night by silver
candlesticks, golden lamps, and candfla-
l.ras supported by angels. The shrine in
the- centre of the chapel lias been made
truly magnificent by its ornaments in gold
and marble. The singular chapel of the
Madonna Mora contains an attractive sar-
cophagus of the Obice family ; also an urn
which belonged to Fulgosa, a celebrated
counselor of the 14th century. In the
chapel of St. Felix are some very ancient
frescoes, impressive, but much injured by
restoration. The Prfsbyttry is separated
from the rest of the church by very ele-
gant screens and balustrades made of mar-
ble : this contains the great bronze cruci-
fix, and Deposition in gilt and terra-cotta,
by Donatello ; also his group of the Madon-
na and Saints in bronze. Church of the
Eremitani is quite simple, but ornamented
in a pleasing manner ; some of the frescoes
are uncommonly fine. An allegorical pic-
ture of Mercury, Mars, and Venus is very
PADUA.
[ITALY.]
PADUA.
singular; so also is that of Earth placed
between Industry and Idleness.
Of the Tomls we may mention particu-
larly that of the fifth lord of Padua, Jacopo
di Carrara ; also that of Ubertino Carrara.
These are about the only memorials left of
the princes of Padua. The history of the
total extinction of this family is really
quite sad. Francesco di Carrara and his
two sons were strangled in the dungeons
of St. Mark after having surrendered Padua
to the Venetians. The monument to Bena-
vides, the celebrated lawyer, is very fine,
and remarkable from having been erected
under his own supervision : he employed
groat genius both in the sculpturing and
architecture. Students from the Univer-
sity attend service here on Sundays and
holidays ; they are also interred here after
death. The Sacristy contains two very
handsome and interesting monuments
one, by Conova, erected to William, Prince
of Orange ; the other, a very singular one
of red marble, to the memory of Paulus de
Venetiis.
The A rena, supposed to have been a Ro-
man amphitheatre ; in portions of it the
Roman masonry is still visible. It passed
into the hands of the Scrovigno family, a
member of which altered it into a castle,
and also erected the chapel of Sta. Maria
deir Annunciato for private worship. Gi-
otto, who was young then, and was work-
ing in Padua, was employed in decorating
the building ; he also designed the build-
ing, which accounts for the unity in the
architecture and decorations ; the beautie.-
and character of his style were never more
forcibly illustrated than in this original
and perfect production. While at work on
this, he had a pleasing companion in the
person of Dante, who at that time lodged
with him.
The chapel is a perfect gem of the art-
ist's beauty and skill in ornamental de-
sign ; his frescoes also are worthy of most
particular observation. Those persons who
have a taste for this art will perceive with
what exquisite simplicity, and yet with
how much dignity he portrays his subjects,
which are mostly taken from sacred his-
tory ; ho has lu-re a.mhined pathetic ex-
pression with ease and beauty. The De-
position from the Cross is considered his
finest painting. Giotto was the son of a
shepherd, and was born at Vespignano,
near Florence, in 1276. He became the
pupil of Cimabue, and soon surpassed his
master in the blending of his tints and the
symmetry and correctness of his designs.
Many of his works possess great positive
merit, irrespective of the early age in which
they were produced. He painted portraits
as well as sacred compositions ; among
others, one of Dante, in the chapel of the
podesta at Florence, which, after having
been covered with whitewash for two cen-
turies, was brought to light. He died in
1336.
The Unirersity of Padua was quite cele-
brated in the 14th and loth centuries ; it
was not only patronized by an immense
number of students from all parts of Eu-
rope, but also by Mohammedan countries.
Dante and Petrarch were among its pu-
pils ; Harvey received his degree of med-
icine here in 1602 ; Evelyn was a stu-
dent in 1645 ; Galileo and Guglielmi were
among its professors of philosophy ; and
Fallopius, Morgagni, and others among its
medical professors. Padua is one of the
five sections of the literary union of Aus-
trian Italy. It excelled greatly in medi-
cine, as may be seen from the names of the
professors.
Palazzo of the University derives its
name of // Bo from the inn upon the site
of which it is located. Here is the statue
of the celebrated Elena Lucrezia Cornaro
Piscopia : she was most accomplished ;
spoke the Hebrew, Greek, Arabic, Span-
ish, French, and Latin languages fluently ;
was a poetess, an excellent musician, well
versed in mathematics and astronony, and
received a degree of medicine; she died
unmarried at the age of 48.
The most singular building is the Palaz-
zo della Municipalita, the history of which
is as remarkable as its appearance. The
roof is very high, towering far above the
walls of the edifice, and said to be the
largest in the world which is unsupported
by columns. The interior of the hall is
not at all prepossessing, being dark and
gloomy, and the walls are hung with heavy
rr^'sterious paintings, which rather add to
the dreary appearance. Among the busts
and monuments which this building con-
tains is the bust of Pletro di Abano, who
first revived the art of medicine in Europe ;
Sperone iiperanfs statue ; Livy's monument
and its history, are all interesting, but
771
PADUA.
[ITALY.]
VlCENZA.
none as much so as the bust erected to Lu-
crezia Dondi, as celebrated for her virtues
as the Roman Lucretia, the circumstances
of whose death so aroused the indigna-
tion of the Romans against the Tarquins
that, with Brutus as their leader, they bel-
lowed forth revenge for one who was the
" mark and model of her time," and struck
the blow for liberty. At one end of the
hall is the A liar of Insolvency, composed
of black granite ; at the other end, the
famous model of a horse by Donatello. In
a suite of apartments near the entrance to
this building are deposited the series of
Paduan archives. Among the diplomas is
one of Henry V., to which he was obliged
to annex a cross, being unable, from the
want of education, to write his signature.
The Biblioteca Capitolare, claiming Pe-
trarch as one of its founders, contains
10,000 volumes and some curious MSS.
The Biblioteca Publica has 1(0,000 printed
volumes and 15,000 MSS.
Padua has the most ancient Botanic Gar-
den, in which are the oldest exotic trees
and plants common in Europe. The ce-
dar of Lebanon flourishes very extensive-
ly ; the magnolias are remarkably elegant.
The Astronomical Observatory, in which
many of the victims of Eccelini were im-
prisoned. The view from here is extend-
ed and exceedingly fine, combining the
Euganean hills, the Lagoon of Venice, and
the N.E. Alps.
The Praia detl.i Voile is the only public
promenade. It is square and irregular, and
somewhat resembles the London square,
except that the interior is surrounded with
a circular stream of water, along the bor-
ders of which are statues of celebrated na-
tives of Padua, besides some celebrities of
other countries.
The most interesting palace is the Pa-
lazzo Pappqfava, belonging to one of the
most patriotic noblemen of the country,
Count Andrea Cittadclla cli Vicodozzere.
Of its curiosities, none are so attractive as
the group in sculpture of Lucifer cast out
from Heaven, carved from a single block
of marble. It consists of sixty figures.
Twelve years of the artist's life were con-
sumed upon it.
The Scuola di Sanf Antonio is most rich
in frescoes by Titian, the subjects of which
are most interesting. The manufactures of
Padua are w oolen cloths, silks, and ribbon.
772
There is also a large trade in wine, oil, cat-
tle, and leather. In a tower adjoining tht
Cathedral is the wonderful clock of the cel-
ebrated inventor Dondi, for which magnif-
icent piece of mechanism his descendants
bear the name of " Dondi dell' Orologio."
Padua is noted for its charitable institutions.
Omnibuses from the hotels meet each
train. Carriages to or from the station 1^
fr., with baggage ; by the hour. '_' fr.
From June to August, on account of the
fair held at that time, the city is the gayest.
Travelers not wishing to visit Verona,
Milan, Turin, etc., can proceed direct from
Padua to Florence via Ferrara and Bo-
logna. Distance to Bologna, 98 miles.
Time, express, 3 hours ; fare, 14 fr. 50 c.
From Padua to Vicenza, distance 20
miles ; time, 1 hour.
Vicenzi. Principal hotels, Hotel de la
Ville, near the station ; Stella d'Oro. in the
Corso. Population, 37,086. A few hours
will be all that travelers require to stay
here, and they will find at the railway sta-
tion a very good cafe answering their pur-
pose. The city of Vicenza was sacked by
Alaric in 401, and pillaged by Attila, the
Lombards, and Frederick II. In the 15th
century it came into the possession of the
Venetians, who retained it until after the
downfall of the republic. It is beautifully
situated on the Bacchiglione, where it re-
ceives the Retrone. It is one of the best-
built cities in Italy. The different rivers
are crossed by nine bridges, of which the
finest is the Ponte de 8an Jfichek, and may
l>e favorably contrasted with the Rialto
of Venice. Vicenza is a bishop's see, the
seat of the council, and the superior courts
for the delegates. The Vicentines are
quite celebrated for the interest they take
in manufactures; they consist chiefly of
silks, woolen fabrics, leather, earthenware,
gold and silver articles, etc. The mode
of cultivation, and the cleanly manner in
which the fields are kept, make quite an
impression upon the traveler. Vicenza is
a very ancient city, and is the birthplace
of Palladio, the modern Vitruvius, who
was born in 1518. The buildings display
his skill in the architecture, and it may be
truly said the city is "full of Palladio."
The accuracy of proportion is the principal
attraction in his style of architecture. The
Vicentine villas, which are very beautiful,
are mostly located on the Monte, a rise of
V E F
Harp*
DMA
2 '4 la c-'mn (Ituisti
2 5 Theatre
Tombcau. <fer Jcalyer 26
Place Hei Siqmrri.
Hcrlt
VlCEXZA.
[ITALY.]
VEROXA.
ground adjoining the city, commanding a
rich and extended view of the great plain
of Lombardy. The palaces of the city are
exceedingly handsome in design, but show
that they have been much neglected, and
only half inhabited.
The Duumo is of but little interest, con-
taining scarcely any object worthy of no-
tice. Church of San Lorenz;) is built in
the Gothic style, and has lately been re-
stored, after having remained in a neglect-
ed state for a long period. It has some
fine monument*; amor.g them is one of
Ferreti the historian, e.iso of John of Schio.
The principal tombs are of Scamozzi, with
his bust, and the slab-tomb which former-
ly covered the remains of Giovanni Gior-
gio Trissino, the poet, who died in 1550.
Church of La Santa Corona, the burial-
place of Palladio. The different chapels
are richly decorated, the tombs and paint-
ings very fine. Palladio, after having
lain here for a long time, was removed to
the Campo Santo. Church of Sia. Maria
del Monte is located about a mile from the
city, but is connected with it by a range
of arcades over 700 yards in length, with
165 arches. It stands on an elevation of
315 ft. above Viccnza, and the view of the
surrounding country is perfc-ctly charm-
ing. It was from the hill in front of this
building in 1848 that Vicenza was bom-
barded by the Austrians for nine success-
ive hours. One of the most prominent
objects to be seen from the Monte is the
celebrated March Tower. The Museum in
the Palazzo Chiericati contains some very
good pictures. Open from 9 to 5. In the
large hall is the Supper of St. Gregory, by
Paul Veronese, which was once very mag-
nificent, but was most shamefully abused
in 18-48 by the Austrian soldiers. Teatro
Olympico. This is one of the finest speci-
mens of the architecture of Palladio, by
whom it was commenced, and after his
death it was completed by his son, who
followed his father's designs as closely as
possible.
The two houses which attract the most
attention in the city are those of PcdJadio
and Pigtifetta. The Rotondu Capra, situ-
ated at the foot of Monte Berico, more fa-
miliarly known as Palladio's villa, shared
the same fate as the surrounding buildings
in 1848. It was almost entirely ruined,
and now presents a dreary appearance.
VOL. II. L
Near this villa is the palace of the celebra-
ted Trissino the poet. The Public Ceme-
tery is located at a distance of about half
a mile beyond the city. Some of the mon-
uments are very fine. The one erected to
the memory of Palladio is said to have
cost upward of $15,000.
The Baths of Recoaro, 24 miles N.W. of
Vicenza, are in high repute. Carriage in 4 h.
VERONA.
Population, 58,000. Hotels : Due Torri
(2 towers), and Tour dt Londres. Verona is
finely situated on the Adige, which divides it
into two unequal parts, forming a peninsula.
The river, wide and rapid, is crossed by three
stone and two iron bridges. In the inunda-
tion of Sept., 1882, surpassing all previous
ones in height and destructiveness, the
Ponte Xuovo (new stone bridge) was carried
away, and hundreds of houses destroyed or
undermined, the water attaining at the Por-
tuni Borsuri gateways an altitude of over
10 feet. No monuments were injured.
The city is extremely well built, and is
most interesting ; it has been, in its day, of
great renown and strength. In the neigh-
borhood Marius fought his famous battle
against the Cimbri, and Theodoric the
Great won the victory over Odoacer. From
this time to that of Berengarius, Verona
was in a flourishing state, and was the cap-
ital of the kingdom of Italj-; it afterward
became the capital of quite a large terri-
tory, governed successively by the Scali-
gers, Visconti, etc. In the 13th and 14th
centuries transpired the contentions be-
tween the Capuletti and Montecchi allud-
ed to by Shakspeare. Verona submitted
to the government of Venice in 1405, and
continued in their possession until the over-
throw of the Venetian republic in 1798.
It was the seat of Congress in 1822. The
most beautiful workmanship presents itself
in the fine proportions and ornaments of
many of the buildings. There are five
gates in the city, two of which are remark-
abl}' fine structures. The old towers and
walls still remain. Extensive fortifica-
tions have lately been built in place of the
old ones which were destroyed by the
French in 1797.
Verona is particularly celebrated fur
having been the birthplace of many dis-
tinguished men, some of whom are worthy
773
VERONA.
[ITALY.]
VERONA.
of particular mention. The celebrated Ro-
man poet Catullus, born B.C. 86; he lived
and died poor, as many other poets have
done, although he possessed a superior
genius. At the time of his death he was
30 years old, in the flower of his age, and at
the height of his reputation. He had a great
admiration for the fair sex : in speaking
of his Lesbia, and how many kisses would
satisfy him, said that he desired as many as
there were grains of sand in the deserts of
Libya and stars in the heavens. Aurelius
Mucer, a Latin poet in the age of Augustus,
acquired considerable fame. Cornelius Ne-
pos, the Latin historian, who flourished in
the time of Julius Caesar: he left the
' ' Lives of the illustrious Greek and Ro-
man Captains" as a monument to his mem-
ory: he died in the reign of Augustus.
"Caius Secundus Pliny the elder." one of
the most learned of the ancient Roman
writers, born A.D. 23. His death was
both singular and tragical. While com-
manding the fleet atMisenum, he was sur-
prised at the sudden appearance of a cloud
of dust and ashes which proceeded from
Mt. Vesuvius ; he immediately embarked
on board of a small vessel, and landed on
the coast, where he remained during the
night, being the better able to observe the
mountain, which appeared to be one con-
tinual blaze. He was soon disturbed by a
dreadful earthquake, and the eruption of
the volcano increasing, the fire at length
made its approach to the spot where the
philosopher was making his observations ;
he endeavored to fly before it, but was un-
able to escape, and soon fell, suffocated by
the thick vapors that surrounded him, and
the insupportable stench of sulphurous
matter. His body was found three days
after, and was buried by his nephews.
This event occurred in the 79th year of
the Christian era, and in the 56th year of
his age. He composed a natural history
in 37 books, which has ever been admired
and esteemed as a judicious collection
from the most excellent treatises that
were written before his age on the various
productions of nature. Panvinius. a cele-
brated Augustine monk, was l.orn at Ve-
rona in 1529 ; he applied himself to the
study of ecclesiastical history, and con-
tinued the ' Lives of the Popes," com-
menced by Platina, whereby he acquire^
the title of the father of history. Vitru-
774
vius of antiquity, and the famous Julius
Caesar Scaliger, who represented himself
as the eldest son of one of the Scaligers,
lords of Verona, and entitled to that seigno-
ry, were included among the illustrious
natives of this city, but, it appears, with-
out foundation, for it is said Scaliger was
born at Padua, and was the son of Bordoni,
a miniature painter.
There was one person who did more to
increase, by his own efforts, the fame of
the city,. than all the rest of its natives.
This was the celebrated painter Paul Cag-
liari, surnamed Veronese from having been
born in Verona, which event took place in
1530. He was the son of a sculptor, and
at an early age manifested a strong desire
to become a painter. He was styled by
the Italians " II pittur felice,'" "the happy
painter." Titian and Tintoretto were se-
lected as his models of perfection. He
established himself at Venice, where he re-
sided until his death. The vigor of his
coloring, the richness of his composition,
and tlia power displayed in his pictures,
met with general admiration. Scarcely a
church in Venice is unadorned with his
works. The great painting of the "Mar-
riage at Cana" is not only considered his
masterpiece, but almost the triumph of the
art of painting. He died of a fever at
Venice in 1588, and had a tomb and a stat-
ue of brass erected to his memory in the
Church of St. Sebastian.
Verona is distinguished as one of the
most industrious towns of Italy. It has
nine establishments for weaving silk : 60
silk-twist factories; large leather, earth-
enware, and soap factories ; also others for
the weaving of linen and woolen fabrics.
Its trade consists chiefly in these articles ;
also in raw silk, grain, oil, sumach, and
agricultural produce. Two weekly mark-
ets are located here ; two fairs take place
annually, and continue for 15 days each.
The fruits and flowers raised HI Verona are
remarkably fine. The climate is healthy,
but a little keen, on account of its near ap-
proach to the Alps. One of the tremen-
dous floods of the Adige, which took place
in the 13th century, is illustrated in the
frescoes of the Cathedral. In 1845 a se-
vere storm occurred, which lasted for three
days, and the inhabitants were conveyed
around the. town in boats.
Amphitheatre. One of the most import
VERONA.
ant objects of interest which first attract*
the attention of the stranger is thu gruat
glory of Verona, its Amphitheatre, more
perfectly preserved than any other speei-
men of Roman architecture: it presents a
iii'>st imposing sight. It is one of the no-
blest existing monuments of the ancient
Romans, and, with the exception of the
Colosseum at Koine, is the largest edifice
of its kind. The interior has suffered but
little, in consequence of the great care
M'hich has been bestowed upon it. In
1184 the outer circuit was very badly dam-
aged by an earthquake. There were for-
merly 72 arches in the outer circuit, and
only four now remain. The height of the
building, when perfect, exceeded 120 feet.
It is in the form of an ellipse ; the extreme
length of its diameters to the outer wall
510 feet and 412 ; those of the arena, 250
and 147. In the interior, the corridors,
stairs, and benches are in a remarkable
state of preservation. It formerly had 40
successive tiers of granite scats, each row
being H feet high, the same in breadth,
and the whole number accommodating
25,000 persons. We arc without any au-
thentic information in reference to the
founders of this great work. It is sup-
posed to have been built between the
reigns of Titus and Trajan. It was used
for the exhibition of shows and sports in
the Middle Ages, and sometimes as an are-
na for judicial combats. At a later period
a bull-fight in honor of the Emperor Joseph
II., then at Verona, was exhibited here.
In still more modern times the Pope gave
his benediction to a large assemblage col-
lected within the Amphitheatre as he was
passing through the city. While Verona
was in the possession of the French, they
erected a wooden theatre in the arena of
this time-honored institution, for the per-
formance of farces, equestrian feats, etc.
The arches are now let jy the town au-
thorities for shops.
There are other monuments of antiquity
in Verona deserving of celebrity, particu-
larly the ancient double gateway composed,
of marble, built under Gallienus, in mem-
ory of whom it was named. Each gate-
way is ornamented by Corinthian pilasters.
It has lieen standing lllOd years.
The fortifications of the city are very re-
markable, of early origin, and are attrib-
uted to Charlemagne, the Scaligers, and
[ITALY.] VERONA.
other natives. Since 1849 the modern for-
titi cations have been strengthened, and
ni'uli' impregnable in every possible way.
A new arsenal has been erected, which will
accommodate a garrison of 20,000 men.
Besides the ancient double gateway al-
ready alluded to, there are others possess-
ing great beauty of architectural design,
and interesting specimens of ancient carv-
ing.
Churches. The churches of Verona are
distinguished for their magnificence. The
exterior of most of them show evidences
of faded beauty and luxury of art.
Cathedral of Sta. Muriu. ^fatricolare was
erected in the time of Charlemagne. The
modern portions of it are very rich and
beautiful chapels of the Maffei family and
St. Agatha particularly so. There are
many very peculiar monuments in this
building: among them is one erected in
commemoration of the Archdeacon of Ve-
rona, to whom is attributed the foundation
of seven churches ; the poet De Cesuris
has a tomb and bust; it is also the burial-
place of Pope Lucius III., who was driven
from IkOine to Verona, where he died in
1185. The paintings of importance have
nearly all been removed. Titian's As-
sumption has been replaced here after a
tour to Paris and back.
The Presbytery and Baptistery are adorn-
ed with frescoes ; in the latter is the font,
30 ft. in circumference, and designed from
a single block of marble. Church of Zan-
eenone, a curious structure of the 12th cen-
tury: the first building was erected on
this site in the beginning of the 9th cen-
tury, through the liberality of Otho II.,
who left a handsome donation for the pur-
pose ; it was restored in 1178. The entire
front is covered with bas-reliefs in stone,
and the doors in sculpture of bronze ; the
whcel-of-fortune window is one of the most
remarkable features. The interior of the
church is well proportioned, and pr>
a striking appearance ; the plan is of a
Latin basilica ; it has no transepts ; it is
rich in curious relics, the most remarkable
of which is the statue of St. Zeno, bishop
of Verona in 3G2 : he was by birth an Afri-
can. Among the other curiosities is a vase
formed of a single block of red porphyry,
also a pedestal. The best painting is one
by Mant'.-gna, hack of the high altar; it
formerly consisted of six compartments,
775
VERONA.
[ITALY.]
VERONA.
but on its return from Paris was reduced
to three. The Cri/pi contains many early
frescoes, and tombs of the ancient bishops
of Verona; also a stone sarcophagus, in
which the remains of St. Zeno were dis-
covered in 1839. In the Cloister is the
tomb of Giuseppe della Scalu, alluded to by
Dante. The Campanile is particularly at-
tractive, being a most beautiful structure
of its peculiar style of architecture. Ad-
joining the church is the cemetery, con-
taining a singular mausoleum.
Church of Saint Anaslasia, in the Gothic
style, and one of the most beautiful edi-
fices of its kind in Italy it is 76 feet in
width, and over 300 in length. The altars
are all very elegant ; paintings good ; the
buildings are almost entirely covered with
frescoes. The pavement is composed of
red, white, and gray marbles, most taste-
fully arranged.
Church of San Fermo was founded in
750; its piers are massive, and show but
little alteration ; there is quite a good deal
of ornament about the church, a number
of paintings, and some remarkable monu-
ments ; two urns belonging to the last
members of the Dante family ; the frescoes
are very singular.
Church of San Giorgio contains a very
large number of paintings, statues, etc.
The high altar is an exquisite piece of
workmanship. The principal paintings
are those of Paul Veronese, the Martyr-
dom of St. George, and Farinati's Miracle
of the Loaves and Fishes.
Church of San Bcmardin, now used as a
military store-house, is full of old tombs ;
the little circular chapel was a perfect gem
of the early Venetian school.
Santa Maria in Organo contains wonder-
ful wooden carvings. The inundation of
1882 rose here 2 m. 75 c., but injured nothing.
The Palaces of this city are mostly from
the designs of Sanmicheli, and are consid-
ered some of his finest specimens of archi-
tecture.
The Palazzi del Consiglio was built by
Fra Giaeondo ; it is adorned by statues of
celebrated natives, Catullus, Fracastorio,
the poet and physician, also distinguished
as a mathematician and astronomer, Pliny
the younger, and others. The public gal-
lery belonging to this palace contains some
good paintings, although the best have
been removed.
776
The Palazzo Pompei alia Vittoria, an im-
posing edifice, was presented to the city by
the family, and now contains the Museo
Civico ; entrance, 1 franc.
The ground floor contains a collection
of antiquities, casts, and fossils.
The Picture-Gnllery is situated on the
first floor, and contains some fine specimens
of the Veronese school.
The first and second rooms contain a
collection of pictures presented to the town
by Dr. Bernasconi. There are numerous
specimens of Paul Veronese, Pordenone,
Fra Bartolomeo, Moretto, and Tintoretto.
The tombs of the old lords of Verona are
curious specimens of ancient sculpture.
They have stood in a public thoroughfare
for over 500 years apparently uninjured.
The tomb of Can Grande I. forms a kind of
entrance to the Church of Santa M. Antica.
The tomb of Can Signorio is of exquisite
workmanship : his crimes were very great,
but they did not prevent him from succeed-
ing his brother whom he had murdered
in the government.
One of the finest collections of literature
in Italy will be found in the Biblioteca
Capltolare : unpublished poems by Dante,
a Virgil of the 3d century, and other in-
teresting specimens of early literature.
The Piazza del Erbe, or vegetable mark-
et. \vas, in the times of the republic, the
forum ; from the tribune criminals received
their sentence. The fountain in the cen-
tre was erected by King Bcrengarius. At
one end of the Piazza is the palace of the
Maff't'i family.
The T<nm Hall, Hfuseo Lapidario, Ex-
change, Lyceum, Philharmonic Academy
(the Opera-house) are among the most at-
tractive and conspicuous buildings of Ve-
rona. There are a number of schools, a
theological seminary, public libraries, and
galleries.
Theatres. Teatro Nttovo and T<-uti;>
Ristori.
Juliet's Tomb. F.vcry reader of Shak-
speare is familiar with the story of the
Montagues and C'apulets, particularly the
portion which relates to the faithful, lov-
ing Juliet, and the cause of her melancholy
death. In a closed garden belonging to
a suppressed convent (Orfmotrofoi) is a
chapel containing a sarcophagus of Vero*
na marble, called the Tomb nf Juliet (fro,
25 c.). Many say it is not Juliet's toml.
PESCHIERA.
[ITALY.]
Whose tomb is it then ? Juliet evidently
died hero, and .was buried here ; and if it
plciiM 1 .- the custodians to say it /.< Juliet's
tomb, why let them have their way until
the non-l>elievers find out where she was
buried. The original author of the story
of La Giulietta was Luigi da Porta, a gen-
tleman of Vicenza, who died in lfr_".. His
novel, however, did not appear until 1535,
being first printed at Venice. It has been
proved by a strict inquiry into the history
of Verona that all the circumstances, char-
acters, and truth of the story have been
retained by Shukspeare in the production
of his play, which was written in 1596.
The house of Juliet's parents is now a tav-
ern, in St. Seb'istinno Street, formerly Ca-
ptllett; Street. The armorial hat belong-
ing to the Capule: family may still be seen
over the entrance to the court.
Verona to ^[unich, across the Brenner
Pass. See Route No. 201.
Verona to Modena. See Route Xo. 211.
Verona to Milan. Time, 3 h. 34 m. ;
fare, tirst class, 17 fr. 50 c. ; second class,
12 fr. -10 c.
Verona to Venice. Time, 3 hours ; fare,
first class, 14 fr. 30 c. ; second class, 10 fr.
40 c.
Pcschitra is a very strong fortification,
situated on a small island connecting the
River Mincio with Lake Garda ; the forti-
fications were first erected by Napoleon : it
was surrendered tothe Piedmontesein 1848,
after having been besieged two months.
Layo di Gnrda. This lake is formed most-
ly by the River Mincio, which descends
from the Italian Tyrol. The whole sur-
rounding country is a garden of beauty.
Garda is more extensive than Como or
Maggiore, although it receives less water.
Its height is about 300 feet above the level
of the sea, and its depth 1000 feet. In many
places its sides are bold and precipitous, and
it is almost entirely surrounded by mount-
ains. The lower portion of it is 7 miles
across, and its greatest length 35. Catullus
selected this lovely situation for his villa,
tlio ruins of which arc still visible ; he was
singularly attached to the spot, and ex-
pressed his admiration for it in some of his
finest verses. The climate is more mild
and agreeable than upon any other of the
Lombard lakes. Its shores are covered
with villages, and the land is very fertile.
The lemon-tree is planted very extensively,
as well as the olive. The lake abounds in
fine fish, such as trout, pike, etc. ; also the
sarilel and agove, species of the delicious
herring which are found in the other lakes.
The waters are at times troubled, in con-
sequence of the severe storms which are
very prevalent ; the waves rising to an im-
mense height, owing to the large expanse
of water. The Mincio is the only outlet.
Steamers between Desenzano and Riva, at
' the head of the lake, in 5 hours, leaving the
former at l.SO P.M., and arriving at the
1 latter at 0.30; and returning even' morn-
ing from Riva at 7.30. Fare, 4 fr. 35 c.
On Tuesdays it leaves Riva at 4 A.M.
Desenzano, a small town on the margin
of the lake, a short distance from the sta-
tion Peschiera. Omnibus to the town,
50 c. (Afager's Hatel). It' contains a pop-
ulation of 4500 inhabitants.
There are numerous stations on the lake
where the steamers stop; among others,
those of Solo and Gargnano are the pretti-
est and most important. Riva is charm-
ingly situated at the head of the lake, sur-
rounded by precipitous mountains. Ho-
tels, .-1 Ibergo Truffell im and Gianlini. Bag-
gage here is examined on arriving by .\\i~-
trian custom officers, and on leaving by
those of Italy.
Riva is a pleasant residence during the
summer, and living is rather cheap. The
natural beauty of the place is enhanced by
the old castle erected on the heights above
the town by the Scaligers.
There are numerous excursions in the
vicinity : The Falls of Ponale (which may
j be seen from the steamers); also to the
I Monto Baldo; and to the Valley of Ledro
and Mori.
On returning from Riva the steamer
stops at Malcesine, a town of 2300 inhabit-
ants. It contains a fine old castle of the
time of Charlemagne, recently restored.
j The village of Garda contains a population
of 1200, surrounded by an amphitheatre of
vine? and olive and fig trees. There \s a
ra.-tli' here which belongs to Count Alber-
tini of Verona.
Omnibuses from the steamer landing to
the station Peschiera, which is 1^ miles
: from the lake.
Brescia. Hotels, Albergo Reale della
Posta and Fmice. Population, 41,000.
Brescia is a very ancient city the Brixia
that was conquered by the Gauls and aft-
777
BRESCIA.
[ITALY.]
BRESCIA.
erward became a Roman colony. It was
at one time one of the wealthiest cities in
Lombardy, and was celebrated for the he-
roism of its inhabitants and the strength
of its fortifications. The heroism of the
Brescians has not degenerated, but the for-
tifications are much dilapidated.
Brescia was taken by the French dur-
ing the league of Cambray, which caused
a revolt, and resulted in being retaken 1 y
storm in 1512, on which occasion Chevalier
Bayard was so seriously wounded. Gas-
fon de Foix, who was appointed general
of Francis I.'s forces while yet a mere
youth, not having attained his twenty-
third year, learning that the city of Brescia
had been delivered over to the Venetians,
and that the garrison was incapable of
longer resistance, hastened, with incredi-
ble exertion and fatigue, to the rescue of
that place, fought two battles, achieved
two victories, and, on arriving before the
gates, summoned the city to surrender, be-
ing anxious, if possible, to avoid farther
slaughter. The summons was, however,
disregarded, although the citizens were de-
sirous that it should be complied with.
The attack commenced, and the carnage
which ensued was fearful. The Venetians
fought desperately, but in vain. The city
was taken, the garrison and population
put to the sword, and the town delivered
up to all the horrors of pillage and vio-
lence. The brave Bayard fell wounded
by a pike through the thigh, which broke
in the wound, and was borne to the rear
by two archers. The citizens, women, and
children harassed the invading troops by
hurling bricks and stones, and even pour-
ing boiling water from the windows of the
houses ; but ultimately between 7000 and
8000 Venetians fell in action, or were
butchered as they attempted to escape,
while the loss of the French did not ex-
ceed 50 men. Unhappily, they no sooner
saw themselves masters of the city than
the most brutal excesses followed. Mon-
asteries and convents were invaded, pri-
vate families were ruined and disgraced,
and the gross booty secured by the con-
querors was estimated at three millions of
crown? a circumstance which ultimately
proved the destruction of the French cause I
in Italy, numbers of the individuals thus :
suddenly enriched forsaking their posts
and returning to their homes, enfeebling
778
the army of De Foix, and conducing to
the fatal termination of the battle of Ra-
venna. Brescia has produced some emi-
nent men, among whom was the historian
Mazzuchelli, the mathematician Tartaglia,
and Agoni.
Churches. TihcDu r ,mo Vecchio was built
by two Lombard dukes. It is very an-
cient, having been commenced in 660 A. D.,
and finished in 670. It still retains some
old tombs and paintings, which, howev-
er, are not of the first class. The Duo-
mo Xuovo is a modern edifice of white
marble, completed in 1825. The dome is
very large, next in size to that of the Ca-
thedral at Florence. In front rf this build-
ing is a fountain, with an allegorical stat-
ue of the city. Church of St. Afra con-
tains many beautiful frescoes and paint-
ings ; among the latter is Titian's fine
work, ' The Woman taken in Adultery."
There is also an excellent portrait of Paul
Veronese in the foreground of his painting
of the Martyrdom of St. Afra. The church
is very ancient, and has been repeatedly
renovated. A temple of Saturn formerly
occupied this location. Church of San Na-
zaro e Celso is richly endowed with paint-
ings, for which it is principally remarka-
ble. Church of San Giovanni Evangdista,
the oldest church in Brescia ; many of
Moretto's finest productions are here dis'
played. Church of San Francesco con-
tains a painting of great beauty, represent-
ing the Marriage of the Virgin, by Fran-
cesco du Pruto di Caravaggio, whose works
are very rare. It was in this building
that the Brescians took the oath of fidelity
to the republic of Venice in 1421. Church
of San Putro in 0/ivtto is also remarkable
for its paintings, containing many speci-
mens of the Brescian art.
JiilJinti :(< (^iiiriiiiiini, founded by Cardi-
nal Quirini in 1750, is well furnished with
ancient MSS. and books ; it now contains
40,000 volumes. A cop}' of the Gospels,
in gold and silver, of the 9th century, is
one of the most interesting relics. Its
founder was most liberal in donations of
early and curious works ; none more use-
ful than the collection of Cardinal Pole.
Admission daily from 11 to 3 ; fee', 50 c.
The Brol'tto, or ancient palace of the re-
public, erected of brick, of peculiar arclii
tecture, was commenced in the llth centu-
ry and completed in the 12th. The armo-
BBESCIA. [ITALY.]
rial bearings were almost entirely destroy-
ed in 1796. It contained many ancient
historical objects of interc.-t and some ex-
cellent paintings previous to the invasion
of the French. It is now used for public
ullices and prisons. On a large circular
window in the great court are some terra-
cotta ornaments of great beauty.
Palasso del Logffia, in the Piazza Vi <<}(!>.
was formerly intended for the town-hall.
It was originally as beautiful in the inte-
rior as in the exterior, but the conflagra-
tion of the 18th of January. 1575, defaced it
to a very great extent. The exterior suf-
fered somewhat by the bombardment of
l s l'.i. Many of Titian's fine paintings
were destroyed at the time of the confla-
gration.
.1/MA-fo Cirirn. The city is indebted to
one of its most distinguished citizens. ( 'ount
Torsi, for this building and its collections.
The most valuable of its contents is a cel-
ebrated work of Raphael, representing our
Saviour crowned with thorns, for which
Count Torsi paid 24,000 francs. It for-
merly belonged to the Mosea family of Pe-i
saro. The paintings, busts, etc., are ad-
mirably in-ranged, and occupy ten different
rooms. There arc several other galleries
containing paintings of intere-t.
The gay exteri; r of the palaces of Bres-
cia add much to the appearance of the city,
also its numerous squares and fountains
the latter 7'2 in number. Its public insti-
tutions are numerous, and very interest-
ing in appearance. Altogether, there is
an air of grandeur about the city that is
very impressive. There are two towers in
the city, the Torre dell' Oroloi/ia, and the
Torre dtlla J'niata. The former has a
large dial, which marks the course of the
sun and moon, and the hours are struck
by two men of metal.
J/.sv< J'li/i /... opn from 11 to 3.
The antiquities of Brescia add much to
its interest. In 1820, while excavations
BERGAMO.
been carefully preserved, and placed in a
museum which has been instituted within
this edilice.
The Cumpo Santo. This cemetery is kept
in most excellent order, and is well worth
a visit, being one of the earliest and most
interesting cemeteries in Italy. It has a,
beautiful chapel, and many very elegant
monuments. The expense of burial here
is very moderate. The cypress is grown
to a great extent, many of the avenues be-
ing bordered with it.
Brescia has five gates Porta di San
Giovanni leading to Milan, San Nazarro to
Crerna, San Alessandro to Cremona. Tu-
lunffa to Vienna and Mantua, and Porta
Pili- to Val Trompia.
Carriages, 1 fr. the course, ! fr. the
hour.
unit. Principal hotels, A Iberffo d'
Italia, and ]'t-m:ia. Population, 38,400.
Bergamo is divided into two portions, up-
per and lower, which are situated half a
mile from each other. It is a very ancient
city, having existed under the Romans.
During the French ascendency it was the
capital of the Department of Serio. The
most ancient portion of it has an elevated
situation, and is inhabited principally by the
nobility. The streets are narrow, and the
buildings lofty and massive. The city was
strongly fortified by the Venetians in con-
sequence of its position ; many of the walls
are still standing, and, having been con-
verted into boulevards, afford beautiful
and extended views. On the south side
of the town is a most interesting walk, ex-
tending over the plains of Lomhardy to the
Alps and Apennines, in which the steeples
of Cremona, Monza, and .Milan are <-asi-
ly discernible. Bergamo has been most
useful to the musical world in producing
many good composers, the principal ones
being Rubini and Donizetti. A monu-
ment has been erected to the latter from
the design of Vela, the celebrated Swiss
were being made, a line temple of white sculptor, in the church of Stu. Maria
marlile, with Corinthian columns, was dis- ,;',nr<-. Many other eminent men claimed
covered, which was supposed to have been | this as their native city : among them was
dedicated to Hercules in the year 7'J. It ISernardo Ta-.-o, father of Torquato, the
is of most remarkable architecture. The ! prince of It ilian poets : the Abbe Seras>i,
masonry is very magnificent. Many por- author of the Life of Tasso ; and Tirabos-
tions are quite perfect. A bronze statue
of Victory was discovered at the same time.
Many of the relics, such as Roman inscrip-
tions, fragments of architecture, etc., have
chi, professor of rhetoric at Milan, and au-
thor of the elaborate and invaluable work
entitled ' Storia della Letteratura Itali-
ana.
779
MILAN.
[ITALY.]
MILAN.
Churches. The church of Sta. Maria,
Maggiore is composed of black and white
marble, and man}* portions of it exhibit
elaborate workmanship. The interior is
richly decorated with paintings. The Cam-
panile is 300 feet high, and is a most con-
spicuous object. Adjoining this church is
the Colleoni Chapel: the principal object
of interest is the monument by Amadeo,
erected to the founder. The tomb of his
child, Medea Colleoni, is also remarkably
fine. The Duomo : the most attractive
portion of this edifice is its cupola: it has
an ancient baptistery of the 5th century.
There are several other churches, contain-
ing frescoes, mosaics, etc.
The Palazz 1 ) Nuovo is now occupied by
the municipal authorities ; it has never
been entirely completed. Palazzo Vecchio,
situated opposite to the above ; in front of
it is the statue of Tasso. Bergamo has a
large number of public institutions : a pub-
lic library with 60,000 volumes; Accade-
mia Carrara, a school of art containing
models and a Picture-gallery, open daily
from 10 to 3. An annual fair is opened
Aug. 22d, lasting 14 days. 1,200,000 is
said to be taken.
MILAN.
Population, S21,839. Hotel de la Vilk,
one of the best in Italy ; Hotel Continental,
a magnificent new house, close to the cathe-
dral ; Hotel du Nord, conveniently situated
opposite the station.
Milan is situated in a richly cultivated
plain, and connected with the Olono and
Lam bra, and is connected with these rivers
by the Variglio Grande and other canals,
79 miles from Turin and 150 from Venice.
It is the principal city of N. Italy, nearly
circular in its formation, and is surround-
ed by a wall which was mostly erected by
the Spaniards in 1555. The space between
the canal and wall is laid out in gardens
and planted with fine trees ; the city prop-
er is about eight miles in circumference,
and although, like most ancient cities, it is
very irregularly laid out, yet it is one of
the most interesting in Europe, full of ac-
tivity and wealth, has some noble thor-
oughfares, and displays a number of fine
780
buildings kept in thorough repair. An ad-
vancement in improvements of all kinds
is visible, and is free from every symptom
of a declining population. It is a great
business city, and monetary transactions
are exceedingly well conducted, and is ex-
tremely advantageous to the traveler in
point of obtaining extended letters of cred-
it, etc.
Milan stands at an elevated height of
452 feet above the sea. It was annexed
to the Roman dominions by Scipio Nasica
191 B.C. It ranked the sixth city in the
Roman empire in the 4th century. In
the 12th century it was the capital of a re-
public, and afterward of a duchy in the
families of Sforza and Visconti. It w:is
held by Spain, after the battle of Pavh,
until it was ceded to Austria in 1714. It
was taken by the French in 1790, and also
after the battle of Marengo in 1800. From
1805 until 1814 it was the capital of the
kingdom of Italy. The barracks of Milan
are very extensive : the largest, Caserna
Grande, is 900 feet in length and 700 in
width. In front and on the sides is tho
Foro Bonap'irte, laid out in elegant walks
planted with trees. In the rear is a largo
open space called the Piazza d'Armi, where
the Simplon road commences by the Arco
delta Pace. This arch is a fine specimen
of modern architecture ; it is of marble,
richly adorned with statues, and was de-
signed by the Marquis Cagnola. Its length
is 73 feet, depth 42 feet, and height 74;
98 feet to the top of the principal statue.
Facing the city is a bronze statue of Peace
in a car drawn by six horses.
The city is entered by ten gates ; tha
richest one. and the most remarkable, is
the Port a Orientale. Many of the others
are interesting from historical associations,
such as the Porta Ticinese, leading to Pa-
vin, through which Bonaparte passed after
the battle of Marengo ; and the Porta Ro-
m'uni, erected at the time of the arrival of
Margaret of Austria, wife of Philip III. of
Spain. Between the Porta Tanaglia and
the Porta Vicellina stood, in former times,
the ducal castle erected by Galeazzo Vis-
conti II. in 1358. It was destroyed after
tho duke's death, but rebuilt by Francesco
Sforzi, and has since been converted into
a barrack, which has been greatly strength-
ened since the outbreak of 1849. During
Eugene Beauharnais's government a Doric
M
. armne-
S..Vur.iMlf Graxif
Iruaranata,
S. Oar deJla. faff ia
tyreta
SJtfO-.det Jcrvi Idf
S.Ma,.aV.,l'.,rt<>
Hurpei
A N
fe
Sand-book
MILAN.
[ITALY.]
MILAN.
gateway was erected of granite, with a
portico in the same style. The Amphi-
theatre is located on one side of the I'iu:.:it
d'Armi, and is capable of accommodating
SO, 000 spectators. Aquatic sports might
easily take, place here, the facilities for
flooding it, being very extensive. Napo-
leon witnessed a regatta, here in 1807.
CHURCHES.
Ths Duomo. This magnificent cathe-
dral astonishes and enchants the beholder.
Fear not that you are expecting more
grandeur and beauty than you will realize,
for this is impossible. It does occur with
other buildings, even with St. Peter's, but
never with this sublime creation of art.
' Its forest of pinnacles, its wilderness of
tracery, delicately marked against the gray
sky, the impression sinks deeper and deep-
er into the mind, wonderful ! wonderful!"
What a head was that which gave birth
to this conception! How it must have
glowed as the great temple sprang forth
within it, holding up its pinnacles to heav-
en, and shedding this sense of grandeur
upon earth. The style of architecture, al-
though somewhat varied in consequence of
being such a length of time in process of
erection, and the different ideas of a large
number of artists displayed upon it, is
universally admitted to be of exquisite
beauty. It is constructed entirely of white
marble from the quarries of the Gandoglia,
beyond Lake Maggiore, which was be-
queathed to the Duomo by (iian (ialoazzo.
It is in the form of a Latin cross ; the en-
tire length of the building is 490 feet,
breadth 18(1 ; height to the top of the stat-
ue 354 feet, length of the transept 284 feet,
height of the nave 152 feet. The farade
presents a fine general effect ; the central
tower and spire is very beautiful. There
are accommodations for several thousand
statues, but the precise number we are un-
able to give, not having had time to count
them ; however, for the benefit of those who
would like to judge for themselves, we will
give the statement of different authors :
M'Culloch says 4500 ; Dr. S. I. Prime, au-
thor of " Travels in Europe and the Knst."
affirms that there are already 7000, and
places for 3000 more: " Murray" says 1 lui.
which is the most correct. In order to ap-
preciate full}- the grandeur of the Duoino,
every person who can do so should ascend
VOL. II. L 2
the flight of 160 steps to the roof. Ticket,
25 c. The most delightful time for enjoy-
ing this the widest and loveliest prospect in
Italy is before sunrise or after sunset, par-
ticularly the latter, as an Italian sky at this
hour of the day is surpassingly beautiful.
There is a watchman on the top with a
good telescope, who will point out four of
the statues which are by Canova.
"All itshii
From the rich gunset to the rising star,,
Their magical variety diffuse :
And now they change ; a paler shadow strews
Its mantle o'er the mountains; parting day
Dies like the dolphin, whom each pang imbues
With a new color :is it {i;isps away,
The last still loveliest, till 'tis gone, and all U
gnvy."
The interior of the Cathedral is very im-
posing: "Its double aisles, its clustered
pillars, its lofty arches, the lustre of its
walls, its numberless niches filled with
marble figures, give it an appearance nov-
el even in Italy, and singularly majestic."
The view is not in the least obstructed, al-
though it contains many clusters of pillars
which support the vault, nearly 90 feet in
height, but. being onty 8 feet in diameter,
scarcely conceal any portion of the build-
ing from the eye. The high altar is situ-
ated, as in all other ancient churches, be-
tween the clergy and the congregation, and
immediately before the choir. In a sub-
terraneous chiipel beneath the dome is a
shrine in which ;ir<3 inclosed the remains
of St. Charles Borromeo, archbishop of Mi-
lan in the l(>th century. The five door-
ways were executed by Mangoni in 1548 ;
the two marble columns on either side of
the centre doorway are composed of a sin-
gle block of stone, and were presented by
St. Charles. 1 he pavement, composed of
red, blue, and white mosaics, is arranged
most tastefully in different figures ; the
whole scene is greatly enlivened by the
morning sun, which shines through the
eastern window. The three immense win-
dows behind the high-altar are very im-
posing, and the dark bronzes of the pulpit
increase the brilliancy of the background.
Suspended from the vaulting over the
altar is a casket containing one of the nails
of the cross, which is always exposed at
the annual feast of the *' Invention (jin<i-
inif) of the Holy Cross," at which time it
is also carried through the streets with all
due solemnity, and followed by a proces-
781
MILAN.
[ITALY.]
MILAN.
sion. Among the other relics belonging
to the Cathedral is the toivel with -which
Christ washed the feet of the disciples, part
of the purple robe which he wore, and some
of the thorns from his crown ; a stone from
the Holy Sepulchre ; the rod of Moses ;
teeth which belonged to Daniel, Abraham,
John, and Elisha, etc.
This cathedral is certainly the finest
Gothic edifice in Italy, and, as a church,
ranks next to St. Peter's. No person can
fail to be impressed with its sublimity ; and
the idea suggests itself to one beholding it
that, although Nature in her works was so
perfectly faultless and impressive, man, in
his efforts to compete with her, was brought
into very dose alliance. If so grand at
all times, how greatly must that grandeur
be increased when the entire building is il-
luminated, as it was after the battle of Ma-
genta, and to celebrate at the same time
the anniversary of the five flays of March,
1848, when the Milanese rose and expelled
their Austrian masters ? After the entire
city was illuminated, gorgeous rays of
light, representing the Italian colors, red,
green, and white, blazed forth simultane-
ously from this magnificent edifice ; spire,
roof, and body presenting a mysterious
grandeur and sublime beauty, with which
no one could fail to be everlastingly im-
pressed. The delicate tints of the crim-
son, as they reflected upon the white mar-
ble of the Cathedral, were scarcely surpass-
ed by the deeper color which it afterward
assumed, and so mysteriously changed to
green, and then to the purest white.
Tombs and Monuments. These are very
numerous, but we shall endeavor to give
the most important. Tomb of Giovanni
Giacomo de' Medici, uncle of San Carlo
Borromeo, designed by Michael Angelo ;
tombs of Cardinal Caracciolo, governor of
Milan, and Giovanni Andrea Vimercati, a
canon of the Cathedral, are very striking.
Monument of Marco Carelli, a benefactor,
is quite remarkable ; also the tomb of Ot-
tone Visconti, archbishop of Milan, is com-
posed of red Verona marble. Above this
tomb is a sitting statue of Pope Pius IV.
Chap I of the Holy Sacrament, or dell' Al-
bero, derives its name from the splendid
candelabrum which stands before it, pre-
sented by Giovanni Battista Trivulzio,
archpriest x>f the Cathedral. It contains
quite a number of slab tombs, statues, etc.
782
The Baptistery contains the ancient font
from the bath of the lower empire, where
baptism was administered bv immersion.
On the high-altar is the superb tabernacle
of gilt bronze, adorned with figures of our
Saviour and the twelve apostles, presented
by Pius IV.
In the subterranean cburch under the
choir services are performed during the
winter, it being more comfortable thac the 1 !
one above. From this you enter the chap-
el of San Carlo. It is lighted by an open-
ing in the pavement above, but tapers are
used to increase the light, which is not
sufficiently strong to allow the objects to
be seen. The walls are covered by illus-
trations of the principal events in the life
of the saint. His body is deposited in a
very elegant shrine of gold and gilded sil-
ver, presented by Philip IV. of Spain.
The corpse is arrayed in splendid robss in
an inner coffin, and seen through panes of
rich crystal, resembling the finest glass.
The principal sacristy crntains mai.y ob-
jects of interest, especially the specimens
of jewelry, which are very elegant.
Church of St. Ambrogio, founded and
dedicated to the martyrs of SS. Gerva-
sius and Protasius, whose bones were re-
moved here by St. Ambrose while Bishop
of Milan. The building, as it now stand?,
was erected by Archbishop Anspertus.
Among the most interesting relics of this
church are the doors, containing small
panels, which are a portion of the gates
closed by St. Ambrose against the Emper-
or Theodosius after he slaughtered the in-
habitants of Thessalonica. They are com-
posed of cypress, and are extremely ancient
in appearance. Beneath the high-altar are
deposited the remains of St. Ambrozio, and
of Saints Gcrvashis and Protasius. Over
the altar is the canopy glittering with gold
and supported by columns of porphyry.
One of the finest specimens of art is the
elaborate facing of the altar. The front is
divided into three compartments, contain-
ing smaller tablets composed of plates of
gold ; the back and sides of silver set with
precious stones, and richly enameled. It
is kept closely covered most of the time,
but is shown upon the receipt of a small
fee by the sacristan. It was presented by
Archbishop Angilbertis II. in 836, and the
name of "Volvonius," the artist, is still
preserved upon it. In 1795 the Eevolu-
MILAN.
[ITALY.]
MILAN.
tionary Commissioners nude an attempt
to seize it, for the purposa of melting it
Jown. The Pulpt i- a singular structure,
built upon eight arches; the vaulting of
the. tribune is a splendid specimen of By-
/ inline art ; it is covered with mosaic upon
a ground-work of gold, and dates back to
the 9th century. The chair of St. Am-
brose, curiously decorated, stands in the
centre of the tribune. The chapel of >'/(
Satiro contains many fine mosaics, the
most interesting of any in the church.
I:i this church the German emperors
usually received the Lombard crown. Here |
also is the brazen serpent fabricated by ,
in the wilderness. Adjoining this
church is the Convent of St. Ambrozio, now
tli,- Miiit'iri/ /Iitfpltil. It was formerly
very splendid, and traces of its beauty are ;
still visible. The interior of the refectory
lj a fine specimen of Italian decorations in
fresco, by C t' : *t<) (In Lodi.
Church of St. Eustorgio is one of the
most ancient churches in the city : it was
dedicated in the 4th century by Archbish-
op Eustorzio. It escaped the destruction
01" Uarbarossa, and has been remodeled,
and much reduced in size. Th.3 monuments
exceed in interest any in Milan. They arc
placed in the different chapels. The most
ivin irkable areas follows : One, very beau-
tifully executed, erected to Stefano Brivio;
marble monument to the son of Guido To-
relli, Lord of Guastalla in 1416; tomb of
Stefano Visconti, son of Matteo Magno (this
is very ancient : the design is a sarcopha-
gus supported by eight columns, resting on
lions of marble') ; monuments of Uberto
Visconti and the wife of Matteo Magno ;
and tombs of Caspar Visconti and his wife
Agnes. In the chapel of Pietro Martiri is
a very beautiful monument erected to the [
saint. Here are also many fine statues,
and allegorical representations of the vir-
tues. On the outside of the church is a
pulpit, from which St. Pii-tro preached to i
the heretics. He was murdered near Bar-
lassina. and was canonized by the Church
of Rome V.\ years after his death, his prin-
ciples being greatly admired. A statue
has been erected in the Plaza opposite upon
a lofty granite column.
Church of La Madonna di San ('
one of the richest churches in the city.
The court in front is exceeding!}' hand-
some, and the facade remarkable for its
sculptures. The Altar of the Virgin, rich
in cloth and gold, has the figure still pre-
served upon it ; on either side of the fine
organ are status of the prophets. The
cupola has twelve sides, and as many st:tt-
u -. It is >aiil that on the site of the pres-
ent edifice St. Ambrose placed a picture
of the Madonna, who afterward appeared
there on the 30th of Dec., 1483. This mir-
acle drew so many persons to the church,
which was then a very small one, that it
was deemed judicious to erect the present
building, \\iiich was commenced in 1491.
Church of Santa Maria delk Gmzit, to-
gether with the Dominican convent, was
founded in the year 1463. The interior of
the church still presents a grand appear-
ance, although extremely dilapidated. The
frescoes and paintings in the different chap-
els are good, and the altar is beautifully
inlaid with marble. On the wall of th
refectory is the magnificent Cenacola, or
" Last Supper," by Da Vinci ; it is 30 feet
in length by 1.3 in height. It has suffered
dreadfully from damp, age, and violence,
but still remains the most celebrated paint-
ing in the world. The monks cut a door
through the wall, cutting away the feet of
the principal figure, and it was violated to
a still greater extent when Napoleon had
possession of Milan, the monastery being
used for barracks, and this room as a sta-
ble. This paintinir was one of Da Vinci's
lirst works, upon which he was employed
srxteen years ; the head of our Saviour,
which is really the most beautifully con-
ceived portion of the entire subject, was
the only part which he felt his inability to
do perfect justice to (Raphael and Rubens
have also expressed inability) ; but bis
success proved to be beyond criticism or
comparison. Many a tear has l>een shed
by travelers while viewing this lovely yet
sad composition ; lost in admiration of its
magnificence, we sit before it and gaze
upon the attractive features of John and
Peter, expressing so much love and im-
pulse, and turning from them to the miser-
able, wretched traitor, until we are moved
by every touch of skill bestowed by so
truthful and glorious a master. But few
re it will lie entirely ob-
literated fri'Tii the view of those who would
wisb to behold this lovely composition, all
efforts of modern artists to restore its for-
mer beauty having proved ineffectual.
783
MILAN.
[ITALY.]
MILAN.
" Leonardo da Vinci was the son of Pie-
tro da Vinci, a notary. He was born in
the castle Da Vinci, near Florence, in
1452 ; he early became a pupil of Andrea
Verocchia, and attained distinction with
the first years of his manhood. He paint-
ed some time at Florence, afterward at Mi-
lan. By the command of Leo X. he visit-
ed Rome in his sixty-first year ; there he
found Raphael and Michael Angelo in the
plenitude of their powers, and, from pru-
'dential reasons, did not enter the lists with
them. Upon the invitation of Francis I.
he went to Paris, where he terminated his
earthly career at the ripe age of seventy-
live." " Francis was affectionately at-
tached to his distinguished protege, whom
he had loaded with honors ; and he no
sooner ascertained that his end was ap-
proaching than he hastened to the death-
chamber. Da Vinci had just received the
last consolations of religion when he dis-
covered the presence of the king, and, de-
spite his exhaustion, he endeavored to rise
in his bed, in order to express his sense of
the favor which was thus shown him ; but
the effort was too great, and, before he had
uttered more than a few sentences express-
ive of his regret that he had not used his
talents more profitably for religion, he was
seized with a paroxysm which rendered
him speechless. As he fell back upon his
pillow, the king sprang forward and raised
his head upon his arm ; and thus, upon the
bosom of the young monarch, Leonardo da
Vinci drew his last breath. The good ef-
fects of his sojourn at the French court did
not, however, expire with him. Although
he had declined, owing to his advanced
age, to undertake any new work, he had
given public lessons and lectures which
had awakened an emulation in art destined
to produce the most benelicial results ; and
the three famous artists, Censin, Janet,
and Limoges, were alike his pupils. " ' ; Le-
onardo was not only the earliest in time
of the four great boasts of modern paint-
ing, the others being Correggio, Raphael,
and Titian, but an accomplished engineer,
architect, poet, musician, and engraver.
The art of painting in chiaro-oscuro is
said to owe its perfection to him. lie did
not study the antique, but evolved his
magical grace of outline, as well as his
marvelous conception of character, from
the study of nature and the clear depths of
784
his own consciousness. A monument was
inaugurated in 1880, in the Piazza Santa
Maria, in memory of the patriots who fell
at Mentone in 18G7.
Church of San Vittore al Corpo, former-
ly the Basilica Porziano. The interior
magnificence of this church is noted, and
all the decorations are of the most elabo-
rate description. The location commem-
orates the spot where the patron St.Victor,
who was a soldier in the army of Maxim-
ian, suffered martyrdom ; he was beheaded
A.D. 303. In this church are some fine
paintings, sculpture, and monuments.
S. Carlo Borromeo, a modern church,
contains two marble groups by Marchesi,
and some fine stained-glass windows.
In the Piazzi del Carmini is the hand-
some Gothic church of S. Maria del Car-
minu, with a Madonna by I Mini.
San Lorenzo, the oldest church in Milan ;
an object of great interest to architects.
San A lessandro, erected in the 17th cen-
tury ; highly decorated, but containing no
works of art.
The Piazza del Duomo was formerly
crowded with small houses and surround-
ed by narrow streets. It is now becom-
ing the centre of business, and. for the pur-
pose of developing the beauties of the
Duomo, it is the intention of the govern-
ment to surround it with beautiful build-
ings at a greater distance ; this idea has
been inaugurated by the erection of the
very handsome structure Galleria Vittorio
Kniiiiniflf, which connects the Piazza del
Duomo with the Scala. Its length is 9CO
feet, built in the form of a Latin cross,
with an octagon in the centre: this is sur-
mounted by a cupola 180 feec high. The
architect was Menyoni, who deserves all
honor for the exquisite tasto displayed.
The cost was nearly eight million francs.
It contains handsome shops, which are
lighted at night with two thousand jets of
gas. The building was inaugurated in
1867.
Palazzo di Corte: this noble structure
was erected by the French upon the site
of the old Sforzi palace. It was one of
the finest p:il;iccs in It:ilv. with numerous
spacious apartments decorated with ele-
gant paintings, and some of the rooms
hung with Gobelin tapestry. But little of
it now remains except the chapel of San
MILAN.
LITAUY.J
MILAN.
Gotardo, the steeple of which is a singular
specimen of the architecture of the 14th
century, and is considered one of the finest
in Milan. It was the first to contain a
clock which struck the hours ; from this
circumstance the neighboring street was
named ''Dell' Ore." In connection with
the gilt brass angel on the summit, a singu-
lar story may be related : " A bombardier
in 1333 lieing condemned to die, offered to
beat down the head of the figure at one shot,
and being allowed his trial, he succeeded,
and his skill purchased his pardon." The
tomb of Giovanni Maria Visconti was in
the chapel of St. Gothard, near the altar,
but has been entirely destroyed. It was
while he was proceeding to church on the
16th of May, 1412, that he was slain. The
barbarous cruelty of this tyrant is almost
incredible, his favorite amusement being
to witness his bloodhounds tear into pieces
the bodies of human beings.
The Brera has a noble collection of
paintings by most of the artists of Italy,
best and second-best, also many engrav-
ings. It is open daily from 9 to 4 in sum-
mer, and from 9 to 3 in winter. Sundays
from 12 to 4. In the centre of the court
there is a fine statue of Napoleon I., by
Ccmova. He is robed as a Roman em-
peror ; in his right hand he holds a statue
of Victor}' and in his left a long staff.
The Observatory belonging to the Brera
was founded in 1762, under the direction
of Father Boscovich. Many fine instru-
ments are provided here, and the obser-
vations are published annually by Carlinio,
the director. In the entrance-hall of the
Pinacoteca are many frescoes of different
Lombard masters.
Pinacoteca. Paintings. Room 1st : Ti-
tian St. Jerome in the Desert. Eubens
the Institution of the Lord's Supper.
Agostina Caracci Woman taken in Adul-
tery. Annibale Caracci the Woman of
.Samaria at the Well, etc. Room 'Id: Tin-
toretto Holy Cross, with many Saints and
a Pieta. Paul Veronese St. Gregory and
St. Jerome, St. Ambrose and St. Augustine,
and Adoration of the Magi, also the Mar-
riage of Cana. ]!<><> m :;</.- Gentine Belli-
ni St. Mark preaching at Alexandria in
Egypt. Giovanni Sanzio, fntln r / lin-
jihinl a fine picture of the Annunciation.
Paul Veronese our Saviour in the house
of Simon the Pharisee. Giotto the Vir-
gin and Child signed. Rooms 6th and 1th :
Albani Triumph of Love over Pluto.
Guercino Abraham dismissing Hagar.
much admired by Byron. Andrea Man-
tegna a Dead Saviour and two Marys.
Raphael Marriage of the Virgin, one of
his earliest and most interesting works.
Rooms 8th and 9<A . Alessandro Turchi
full-length Magdalene. Bonifazio Pre-
sentation of the Infant Moses to Pharoah's
Daughter. Sassoferrato the Virgin and
Infant sleeping. Rooms Wth and llth :
Salvator Rosa the Souls in Purgatory.
Leonardo da Vinci the Virgin and Child
with a Lamb. Camillo Procaccini the
Nativity, with Adoration of the Shepherds.
Gaudenzio Ferrari the Martyrdom of St.
Catharine. Room 1.2th : Leonardo da Vin-
ci Head of our Lord in red and black
chalk. The Museo Lfipidario contains some
very ancient and interesting sculptures.
The hiblioteca Ambrosianu, open daily
from 10 to 3, except Sundays. It contains
5600 MSS. and 175,000 printed volumes.
This institution was founded by Cardinal
Federigo Borromeo, archbishop of Milan,
and was the earliest library in Europe open
to the public. The MSS. are of the high-
est importance, many of which have been
brought from suppressed convents : among
them is a note-book of Leonardo da Vinci's ;
lost oration of Cicero ; translations from
Homer. Josephus, and others ; Livy trans-
lated into English ; a volume of drawings
by Da Vinci. A large sum of money was
offered for these works, which were origi-
nally in 12 volumes, by the King of En-
land ; it was, however, refused, and the vol-
umes were presented to the library by
Galeazzo Areonote; 11 of them, however,
were removed to Paris at the time the
French occupied Lombardy. There is also
the correspondence between Cardinal Bem-
bo and Lucreti* Borgia, with a lock of her
hair attached.
The principal room is adorned with a
frieze of portraits of distinguished individ-
uals ; it also contains busts of Lord Byron,
Thorwaldsen, etc.
The Gallery and Museum possess a great
many paintings, statues, drawings, etc.
The T<nt rn di-lln Srala. This is the
Opera-house of Milan, and is the finest in
the world, surpassing even that of San
Carlo at Naples. The interior arrange-
ments are very fine : it has six tiers of
785
[ITALY.]
MILAN.
boxes, and will accommodate 3600 specta-
tors : most of the boxes are private, and
have small rooms attached. The stride is
150 feet deep. Length of the building
from the front of the centre box to the cur-
tain is 95 feet, and width 73 feet. Milan
has eight other theatres, two of which are
open for day performances.
The Piazza dtlla Scala was embellished
in 1872 by the erection of a handsome
monument in Carrara marble to the mem-
ory of Leonardo <l<t Vinci. It is of heroic
size, situated on a lofty pedestal, surround-
ed by four of his pupils Oggioitr. <In
Sesto, Beltrajfiu, and Salario. The ped-
estal is adorned with some of his works
in relief.
Teatro Reale has generally good operas ,
so also the Carcano theatre.
Ospedale Grande. This most excellent
and well-regulated institution was found-
ed by Francis Sforza in the 15th centu-
ry. It is open to all nations and religions.
Medicines are distributed gratis to the poor
upon receipt of physicians' prescriptions.
The building has been kept in a flourish-
ing state through the liberality of Fran-
cis Sforza, his duchess Bianca Maria, and
other inhabitants. It will accommodate
2500 persons, and the number of patients
admitted annually is 22,000. The system
is very perfect, as much so as in Paris.
Sisters of Charity attend upon the sick ;
the name, disease, and physician's direc-
tions are recorded over the head of each
patient. The building is kept clean, well
ventilated, and free from any thing that
is disagreeable.
The Museo Civico (open on Tuesdays,
Wednesdays, and Saturdays from 11 to 3,
50 c. ; on Thursdays free) contains the
finest collection of reptiles in Europe. Its
collections are in Natural History. Etlmoij-
raphy, Paleontology (fossils), and Zoology.
Private Palaces. Some of these are very
beautiful. Among them are the Serbel-
loni, Vitti, Marino, and Visconti palaces ;
also one of great beauty, the Palazzo Uel- .
gioioso, formerly the villa of Napoleon,
afterward of Eugene Beauharnais.
The Piazza de Mercanti contains some
remains of old Milan ; the large square
building in the centre was the Palazzo della
liai/ioiie, where assembled, in earlier times,
the magistrates of the commonwealth of
Milan, and where, at a later date, the ducal
786
courts of justice sat. Other buildings of in-
terest surround this piazza ; one of the most
curious is the Loggia degli Ossi ; from the
balcony in front, the podesta asked the as-
sent of the citizens to the acts of govern-
ment, and the sentences of criminals were
here proclaimed. The coats of arms of the
six quarters of the city, and of the Viscontis-
Sforzaa, decorate the front. On the oppo-
eite side of the piazza is located the ancient
college. By the side of the Loggia is the
ancient Sculo Palatina, in front of which
are statues of St. Angustin and Ausonius.
This is the business portion of the city, and
some of the principal streets are in this vi-
cinity, containing the best shops in Milan.
Some of the principal buildings in Milan
are the government and judicial palaces.
City Hall, Mint, Custom-house, Treasury,
etc. It also has four asylums, several
hospitals, two work-houses, a government
loan bank, two lyceums, a high female
school, six gymnasiums, deaf and dumb
school, colleges of medicine, a military geo-
graphical institute, many primary schools,
and various societies of literature, agricul-
ture, etc.
There are two Public Gardens. The
old one has been much improved, and the
new Giardino Pubblico contains a small
zoological garden, a statue of Carlo Por-
to, a Milanese poet, a figure of Italy, by
Putti/tati.
Bankers. The American bankers are
Messrs. Ulric fr Co., 21 Via Bigli, where
good rates of exchange may also be ob-
tained.
Druggist. A very good drug store is G.
Talini's, 18 Via Manzoni. English pre-
scriptions prepared, patent medicines, etc.
Marble Statues, etc. A beautiful collec-
tion of works of art in marble, agate, ala-
baster, mosaic, etc., may be seen at Bac-
cerini $ Broccas, 77 Galleria Vittorio Em-
manuele. The safe packing to foreign
countries is guaranteed.
' '< i 'fi -restaurants. \tBiffi Gnocchfs and
Cora's. Good beer at 10 Piazza Beccaria.
Milan to Lake Como. See Koute No.
202.
Milan to Paris. Time, 25 h. 55 m. ; fare,
first class, 117 frs. 15 c.
Milan toArona. Time, 2 h. 20 m. ; fare,
first class, 6 frs. 35 c. ; second class, 5 frs.
35 c.
Milan to Plcdsance. Time, 1 h. 37 m. ;
ROUTES. [ITALY.]
fare, first-class, 7 frs. 80 c. ; second class,
5 frs. 50 c.
Milan to Genoa. Time, 5 hours ; fare,
first class. 17 frs. 30 c. ; second class, 12 frs.
10 c.
Mi/an to Venice. Time, 7 hours ; fare,
first class, 31 frs. 80 c. ; second elu.-s.
2-2 frs. 80 c.
Milan to Lucerne, via St. Gothard Tunnel
(shortest route to Paris or London), in 10 h. ;
36 frs. 65 c. ; 284 km. ; two express trains
daily (sleeping-car, 7 50 P.M.). Sec Route
34, Vol. III., and Routes 202 and 203, Vol.
II. Magnificent scenery.
At GaUarate, a town of considerable im-
portance, the road branches off to Varese.
Varcse contains about 1Q,000 inhabit-
ants, and, on account of the beauty of its
surroundings, many wealthy Milanese have
villas in the town and vicinity. Hotel,
Varese.
The principal church is St. Vittore, which
contains some fine frescoes ; also a Magda-
lene by Marazzone, and a St. George by
Crcspi. The excursions are numerous,
among which is that to the celebrated sanc-
tuary of La Madonna del Monte, or Sacro
Monte di- Varese, five miles distant.
Diligences to Como and Laveno.
COMO.
ROUTE No. 201.
Verona to Innsbruck, via Trient, Bolzen,
and the Brenner Pass. Time (express),
9 h. 24 m. ; fare, first class, 33 frs. 60 c. ;
second class, 25 fr. 20 c.
For description of this route, see "Passes
into Italy," and Index. The Route may
be varied by taking a carriage at Trient
to Riva, at the head of Lake Garda ; two
horses, 35 frs. ; one horse, 18 fr. ; thence
by steamer to Peschiera, in 4 h. 30 m. ; and
one hour by rail to Verona.
ROUTE No. 202.
Milan to Como and Lake Como. Time
to Como, 1 h. 40 m. ; fare, first-class, 5 frs.
45 c. Milan to Lucerne, see Milan, and
{outes 202, 203, Vol. II., and 34, VoL
II.
.1/V>2<7, containing 16,000 inhabitants,
rlotels, Palazzo Reale and del Castello.
The chief interest of this town is centred
: n its celebrated Cathedral, the repository
of the famous " Iron Crown." It is de-
ited in a richly decorated cross over
;he altar, and consists of a band of gold
.ined with a thin strip of iron, said to have
jeen made from a nail of the true cross,
brought from Palestine by the Empress
Helena ! The gold band is adorned with
numerous precious stones. With it were
crowned thirty-four Lombard kings, the
Emperor Charles V., Napoleon I. in 1805,
the Emperor of Austria, Ferdinand I., in
1838.
It was removed by the Austrians dur-
ing the Italian war in 1859, but returned
after the peace of 1866. The Treasury
contains numerous valuable relics ; a gold-
en hen with seven chickens, representing
the seven provinces of Lombardy ; the
cross placed on the breasts of the Lom-
bard kings at the time of their corona-
tion ; two silver loaves, presented by
Napoleon at the time of his coronation,
etc.
The Rroletto, or Town-hall, which dates
from the 13th century, is part of the old
palace of the Lombard kings.
In the vicinity of Monza is a Roj/al
Summer Palace, surrounded by a beautiful
park.
The line passes through several tunnels
and the town of Seregno, containing 5200
inhabitants, and arrives at Camerlattf,
thence by omnibus to Como, distance two
miles.
Como. Hotels : Volta and D'ltalie. Pop-
ulation, 21,000. Como was formerly a
town of some importance. It is sur-
rounded by hills, and defended by
double walls. It has four gates, one of
which, leading to Milan, is a grand speci-
men of architecture. It is quite celebrated
for its industry :md trade. In ancient
times it was an extensive manufacturing
place, the number of looms exceeding those
of Lyons. The scenery around Como is
perfectly fascinating, so much so that it is
ini]i<xsilile to study, the desire being so
great to look out constantly upon its pict-
uresque loveliness. The public buildings
are quite numerous ; there are 12 church-
787
COMO.
[ITALY.]
COMO.
es, a lyceum erected by the French, a li-
brary of 15,000 volumes, two female semi-
naries, an ecclesiastical college, a hospital,
orphan asj'lum, cabinet of natural history,
botanic gardens, etc. A handsome casino
has been added within a few years. Its
manufactures are silks, woolen cloths, cot-
ton yarn, and soap. The fine climate of
Como entices many visitors. Near the city
is the Villa d'Este, now a hotel, formerly
the residence of Queen Caroline of En-
gland.
The Duomo is an imposing building, con-
structed of white marble, of various styles
of architecture. It contains some good
paintings, and many of the chapels and al-
tars are exceedingly beautiful. In front
of this cathedral are statues of the elder
and younger Pliny, erected in 1498. Some
authors say both were born here, and some
that the elder was born at Verona ; but all
agree that it is the birthplace of the young-
er. The elder was born A.D. 23, and was
killed at the eruption of Vesuvius in 79.
The younger was born A.D. 62, and died
in 115. The sculptures on the exterior of
the Duomo. representing the Flight into
Egypt and the Adoration of the Magi, are
of exquisite workmanship.
The Lake of Como, so beautifully de-
scribed by Rogers, is situated in the midst
of hills, surrounded by ancient and pictur-
esque ruins. The views from every por-
tion of this lovely sheet of water constant-
ly charm the ej-e. Its .borders are covered
with villas, belonging to people of wealth
and artists. Bulwer has made the n:une
of Lake Como familiar to every one by his
elaborate description of it in the play of
the Lady of Lyons. The Count describes to
Pauline his palace in most elaborate lan-
guage : "A deep vale, shut out by Alpine
hills from the rude world, near a clear lake,
margined by fruits of gold and whispering
myrtles ; glassing softest skies, cloudless,
save with rare and roseate shadows :"
there, "A palace lifting to eternal heaven
its marbled walls from out a glossy bower
of coolest foliage musical with birds." So
we might follow up the description ; but
Nature will prove more lovely and attract-
ive, and those who visit this charming spot
will undoubtedly be impressed with all the
beauties of scenery which have inspired so
many authors.
Should the tourist have a few days or.
788
weeks to spare, we would most decidedly
say, spend them at Lake Como. Here
you have seclusion and sublimity; luxuri-
ant woods and dazzling waters ; smiling
white villas, surrounded by perfumed cit-
ron groves and orange-trees ; the horizon
on one side dotted with the loftiest Alpine
peaks, while on the other it is blended with
Italia's richest plains; and when the dis-
tant landscapes are hidden from the view,
and we near approach the shores of this
dazzling lake, the lesser hills, clothed to
their summits in richest vegetation, fill up
the scene :
u Sublime, but npither bleak nor bare
Nor misty are the mountains there
Softly sublime profusely fair;
Up to their summits clothed in green,
And fruitful as the vales between.
They lightly rise,
And scale the skies,
And groves and gardens still abound ;
For where no shoot
C'ould else take root,
The peaks are shelved and terraced round.
Karthward appear in mingled growth
The mulberry and maize; above
The trellised vine extends to both
The leaf}' shade they love.
Looks out the white-walled cottage here,
The lowly chapel rises near;
Far down the foot must roam to reach
The lovely lake and bending beach;
While chestnut green and olive gray
Checker the steep and winding way."
The Lake of Como is thirty-five milei
long, and averages two and a half broad.
There are two lines of steamers which run
the whole length of the lake, and the op-
position between them was so great in 1873
that they almost paid the tourist to patron-
ize them. The fare is a mere trifle, but,
changing as it does, it is impossible to give
it with exactness. Travelers who have
little time to spare on Lake Como can
leave Milan at 10.50 A.M., go to Cadenab-
bia and spend the night at this charm-
ing spot ; thence by steamer to Menaggio ;
thence by rail in forty-five minutes, to Por-
lezza, in time for the 1.15 P.M. steamer for
Lvffrmo, making the ascent of Monte S.
Salvatore.
From Lugano, diligence in 2 h. 30 m. to
Luino ; steamer from Luino to the Borro-
mean Islands ; thence to Arona in 1 hour,
ami Arona to Milan in 2 h. 25 m.
Steamers leave Como for Colico five
times each day. Time, 3 h. T>0 m. ; fare,
4 fr. Fare to Bellaggio, 2 fr. 55 c.
I TA L I A
Harper'
LAK ES
COMO.
[ITALY.]
BELLAGGIO.
Naturally tliere are man}' lovely spots
on the Italian lakes which might be recom-
mended ; hut if travelers wish to spend
some weeks instead of days in the midst of
luxuriant gardens, flowers, and vineyards,
with the loveliest views, we would say em-
phatically, Bettaggio, Cadenabbiu , i\nd Villa
d'Efte, on Lake Como ; Lugano, on Lake
Lugano ; and at Stresa and Pallanza, on
Lake Maggiore.
On the western bank, starting from
Como, the Villa Raimondi is passed.
Farther on the western side is Villa
d'Este, formerly the residence of Queen
Caroline, wife of George IV. of England.
On the opposite shore is Villa Trubetzkoi,
the property of a Russian prince of that
name.
Next on the eastern side is Villa Tagll-
oni, formerly the property of the celebrated
danseusc ; now belonging to her son-in-
law, Prince Trubetzkoi.
Passing numerous places of more or less
importance, Cadenubbia is reached.
Close to the landing is the Villa Crlotta,
the property of the Duke of Sachsen-Mei-
ningcn, widower of the Princess Charlotte
of Prussia. The marble saloon is orna-
mented with Thorwaldsen's Triumph of
Alexander, which cost $80,000 ; it con-
tains a Cupid, Venus, Paris, Magdalene,
Psyche, and Palamedes all by Canova. In
tho billiard-room there is a chimney-piece
with a frieze by Thorwaldsen. There are
several fine modern pictures.
The villa is freely shown to visitors ; a
small fee is expected.
A walk should be taken to the church
of Madonna de S. Martina, on a height
above the town one and a half hours ;
the plateau commands a beautiful view.
There is also a long excursion to Mnnti
Crocion\ which commands a magnificent
view of Mt. Blanc, Mt. Rosa, and the Ber-
nese Alps, with all the Italian lakes. Time
occupied, 12 hours ; guide, 5 fr.
Immediately opposite Cadenabbia is the
town of Bellaggio; row-boat, 3 frs. ; steam-
er crosses several times each day.
BeUagio. Hotel, Grand Hotel Bellagio,
one of the finest houses in Europe,contain-
ing 230 rooms and salons, commanding a
full view of all three lakes, and environed
by a splendid park and garden. Hot, cold,
and shower baths ; carriages and boats be-
longing to the establishment ; English di-
vine service ; and a most superbly laid out
ground-floor and terrace. M. Breitschmid,
the manager, has long been known for his
efficiency and courtesy.
Visit the Villa Mehi and Vitta Giuli'i.
In the Villa Melzi are numerous works by
Canova. See the busts in the vestibule.
Notice in the saloon dedicated to Napoleon
I. a splendid portrait of the emperor in the
costume of President of the Italian Repub-
lic. Examine the chapel in the garden. A
fee should be given to the custodian as
well as to the gardener.
Monte S. Primo is often ascended from
Bellaggio ; the view is most extended
and lovely. The base can be reached on
horseback ; the ascent will occupy five
hours.
There are numerous other towns on the
way to Colico: Verenna, Alberyo Reale, on
the eastern side, near which is the Fiume
Latle, a fall of nearly one thousand feet
high ; but during the summer, or during
very dry weather, there is very little wa-
ter. There are marble quarries here.
Nearly opposite is the town of Mn(iri-
gio. Hotels, Corcnm and Menaggio. Ruil to
Porlezza on Lake Lugano; see R. 7-t.Vol. III.
Jtezzonicu, on the same side. There are
some fine ruins here of the 13th century.
On the eastern side, Sellano, with exten-
sive iron-works. Above this, Dtrrio; then
789
CHIAVENNA.
[ITALY.]
ISOLA BELLA.
Colico, whence diligences are taken to cross
the Splligen Pass ; see Route 47, Switzer-
land, vol. iii. Also across the Bernina Pass :
see Switzerland, Route 54. To St. Moritz
and the Engadine, see Route 56, Switzer-
land, vol. iii.
Colico (Hotel Piazza Garibaldi), a vil-
lage situated at the foot of Mount Legnone.
Chiavenna (Hotel Conradi) was once a
flourishing town in possession of the Dukes
of Milan, and the ruins of former resi-
dences and palaces of the nobles are still
to be seen. The Church of San Lorenzo,
the Baptistery, and the charnel-houses, in
which skulls and bones are curiously ar-
ranged, may be visited by travelers. About
four miles from Chiavenna is the Fall of
Gardona, which is worth a visit. The road
from Chiavenna to the Lake of Riva is
rather disagreeable, and the scenery is
very uninteresting. Riva is situated at
the north extremity of the lake.
Campo Dolcino is but a miserable vil-
lage, consisting of a few detached groups
of houses. The Lira valley, through which
the road now passes, presents a scene of
desolation, occasionally modified by chest-
nut-trees, which hide, in a measure, the bar-
renness of the rocks which surround them. ,'
For the Spliigen Pass, Coire, and to Zu-
rich, see Route 47, Sicitzerland, vol. iii.
From Cadenabbia to Lugano, in Switz-
erland, and Lake Maggiore, see Route 34.
There is a new road, completed in 1873,
Dassin<j Porlezza.
ROUTE No. 203.
Lake Como to Lake Maggiore, via Lake
Lugano. There is a good new road from
Cadenabbia to Lugano.
Diligences from Camerlata to Lugano in
3 h. 30 in.
Como to Lugano, by rail, 43 in. ; 3 frs.
20 c. ; 30 km. ; to Bellinzona, by rail, 1 h.
44 m. ; 7 frs. 90 c. ; 60 km. , to Lucerne,
via St. Gothard, by rail, 7 h. 50 m. ; 30 frs.
65 c. (express) ; 23C km. (see Route 34,
Vol. III.).
A large portion of this route, being in
Swiss territory, will be found described in
Route No. 34, Vol. III., Switzerland. See
map of Italian lakes.
Luyano is most charmingly situated on
the borders of the lake of the same name.
Its population amounts to nearly 6000, all
790
of whom speak the Italian language. Ho-
tels : Jii'nu Xf-jiHir and Da Pare. Lugano
divides with Bellinzona and Locarno the
honor of being the seat Of government of
tin' ran ton of Tessin. The beautiful coun-
try surrounding Lugano, and its healthy
climate, offer great inducements to the
traveler to make a lengthened stay. The
Villa Tanzina, live miles south of the town,
contains an elegant little temple, inclosing
a bust of " the Father of his Country."
The owner of this villa made a large for-
tune in the United States.
Fail not to make an excursion to the
little chapel on the summit of Monte S. Sal-
t-adore before leaving Lugano. It is al-
most surrounded by the winding of the
lake, and the glorious views from its sum-
mit are the choicest pictures in Italy.
Lugano to Bellinzona, rail, 61 m. ; 4 frs.
70 c. ; 30 km. ; to Lucerne (St. Gothard
Tunnel), 7 h. 16 m. ; 27 frs. 45 c. ; 206 km.
See Route 34, Vol. III.
Lugano to Luino, by diligence daily, in
2 h. ; fare, 3 frs. 60 c. ; two-horse carriage,
20 frs.
Steamers run from Luino (Hotel du
Simplori). The diligences, taking dif-
ferent directions, stop here for passen-
gers. The Borromean Islands are the prin-
cipal objects of attraction, and comprise
Isola Bella, Isola Superiore, Isola Mddie,
and Isola S. Giovanni. The steamer touch-
es at Isola Bella, the most lovely of the
group ; it is the property of the Count Bor-
roineo, who resides here a part of every
year in his magnificent pulace. An ancef-
tor of the present count, Vitalio Borromeo,
in 1690, built the present palace, and con-
verted a naked rock into the present par-
adise. It certainly looks like a fairy cre-
ation. The garden is elevated 100 feet
above the lake by a series of terraces, ten
in number. These terraces are adorned
with statues, obelisks, trees, and vases.
Here, in sight of the Alpine snows, bloom
all the tropical flowers and plants ; the or-
ange, the lemon, the pomegranate, and the
cactus, all thrive equally well. Of course
the terraces are covered over in winter and
warmed by stoves, but in summer the cre-
ation is most enchanting. The camphor
and laurel tree flourish here in perfection ;
the very air is fragrant with orange-flowers
and rose-buds, and the clear lake is " mar-
gined by fruits of gold and whispering
PALLAXZA.
[ITALY.]
NOVARA.
myrtles." Fail not to visit the palace ; it
ie freely shown to strangers. A fee of 50
centimes to the custodian, also to the gar-
dener, is expected from each person. There
is a hotel adjoining the chateau.
Opposite these islands is situated I'al-
Innz-i, the principal town in the district.
For further description, see Route 34, Lti-
ccnif tn ( 'adenabbia. Switzerland, Vol. III.,
page HOG.
J:,irfiio is situated on the same side of
the Like, between Pallanza and Stresa.
iMake the ascent of Monte Monterone, which
stands between Lake Maggiore and Lake
Orta. The view from the summit is not
surpassed even by that from the Rigi.
Donkey to make the ascent, 4 fr.
Directly opposite the islands is .SVrewi.
Then Btlgirate, beautifully situated in
one of the most charming spots on the
lake, offering to English and Americans a
most delightful stay.
Steamers pass up and down the lake
several times each day, stopping at Canob-
bio, Cannero. Intra. and Laveno, where dili-
gences leave daily for Verese.
Trains leave Arona several times each
day for Milan, and diligences daily from
Magadino across the St. Gothard Pass to
Zurich ; see Route 34, Switzerland, vol. iii.
Also by the Bernardino Pass to Coire ; see
Route 57, Switzerland, vol. iii.
From Stresa an excursion should be
made to Orta and Varello, returning to
Arona: this will occupy three days, and
will well repay the tourist. The distance
to Orta is seven hours, Orta to Varello five
hours, and Varello to Arona six hours.
Varello (Hotel Italia) is the centre of
numerous excursions, chief among which
is that to Sacro Monte, a little over one
hour's walk over a path finely shaded with
lovely trees. This place is the object of
many pilgrimages ; it consists of a church,
fountains, and forty-six chapels, containing
representations in the life of the Saviour.
It was founded by a Milanese nobleman,
witli the sanction of Innocent VIII., and
is greatly revered by Italians. The whole
is buried among beautiful trees.
Omnibuses twice a day from Varello to
Novanu
For description of Novara, sec Route
No. 201.
with the sanction of Innocent VIII.. and
is greatly revered by Italians. The whole
is buried among beautiful trees.
Omnibuses twice a day from Varello to
Novara.
For description of Novara, see Route
No. 204.
ROUTE No. 204.
.Milan /> Turin, ria Xovura. Time, 3h.
3.") in. : fare, first class, 18 fr. 70 c. ; second
class, 11 fr. 95 c. (To obtain a good view
of the Alps, take seats on the right-hand
side of the carriages.)
Forty minutes from Milan the station
Magenta is reached, near which a monu-
ment was erected in 1862 to Napoleon III.,
in memory of the victory gained by the
French and Italians over the Anstrians,
June 4, 1859, causing the latter to evacu-
ate Lombardy. Marshal MacMabon, Pres-
ident of the French Republic, received
from Napoleon the title of Duke of Magen-
ta for his distinguished services on the field
of battle. A small chapel has been erect-
ed on the field, near which is a charnel-
house for the remains of the fallen.
Novara. Hotels, Albergo d Italia and
Rail Restaurant. Population, 30,100. No-
vara is situated upon rising ground above
the plain of Terdoppia, and was formerly
surrounded by fortifications which had wit-
nessed many an attack, but they have now
mostly passed away. Monte Rosa is seen
to great advantage from this point; the
plain around is highly cultivated, but, ow-
ing to the marshy soil, the neighborhood is
unhealthy.
It was to the south of this town, almost
in its suburbs, that occurred on the 23d
of March. 1*49, the sanguinary action be-
tween the Atistrians and Piedmontese,
which terminated in the defeat of the lat-
ter, and the abdication of the brave and
chivalrous Carlo Alberto. That unfortu-
nate sovereign, pressed by the democratic
partv at Turin, denounced the armistice
791
NOVARA.
[ITALY.]
TURIN.
into which he had entered in August of
the preceding j'ear, after his unsuccessful
campaign of the Adige and the Mincio, and
prepared to invade the Austrian territory
by crossing the Ticino on the 21st of March.
On -the same day the veteran Itadctsky in-
vaded the Piedmontese territory by cross-
ing the same river at Pavia with a well-
equipped army of 60,000 men in four di-
visions. Without losing a moment, his
advanced guard was put into motion in
the direction of the head-quarters of the
Piedmontese army, then lying between
Novara and Trecate. After a hard-fought
action at Montara on the 21st, in which
the Piedmontese were worsted, the Austri-
ans advanced upon Novara, where both
armies were engaged on the 22d the Aus-
trians under Kadetsky, the Piedmontese
commanded by the Polish general Cher-
worowski, under the king in person. The
site of the battle is a little south of the
town, in the space separating the Agogna
and Terdoppia streams. The heat of the
action was between Olengo and the chap-
el of La Bicocca, about one mile south of
Novara, on the road to Mortara. The
Piedmontese performed prodigies of valor,
led on by Carlo Alberto and his sons, the
Dukes of Savoy (the present king) and
Genoa. The conflict lasted during the
whole day, and at its close the Piedmont-
ese retired through the town, committing
some acts of pillage and disorder. On the
26th of March an armistice was signed, in
which Itadetsky showed much generosity
as a victor, the whole campaign, from the
crossing of the Po at Pavia, having only
lasted live days.
The principal buildings of Novara arc
the Cathedral, the Dominican church, the
church of St. Gaudenzio, etc.
The Duomo is a fine edifice, although
both exterior ^nd interior have been great-
ly damaged. The high-altar is a splendid
piece of workmanship. The pavement,
composed of black and white mosaic, was
laid in the Roman manner in the ninth
century. The figures of birds in the me-
dallion represent their subjects in an inter-
esting manner, as follows : the Pelican,
emblematical of the love of our Saviour ; the
Phoenix, of the resurrection; the Stork, of
filial piety, etc. There are many other
relics in this Duomo which will interest
the traveler. Church of San Pie/ro al Ro-
792
sario is celebrated for being the spot where
the sentence was passed upon Frati Dol-
cino in 1307. He and Margaret, the beau-
tiful nun whom he abducted from her con-
vent, were burned alive March 23, 1307.
The Basilica of San Gaudenzio was erected
to commemorate the name of the patron
saint and first bishop of Novara. One of
the chapels contains a superior work of
Gaudenzio Ferrari, consisting of six apart-
ments. The subject is the Nativity, with
Madonna and Child, and saints with at-
tending angel. A lofty bell-tower is at-
tached to this church, which is visible for
a long distance, and forms quite an attract-
ive and conspicuous object.
Novara has a number of public build-
ings, manj r convents, several hospitals and
colleges, a theatre, and a government bank.
The manufactures are chiefly silk, linen
fabrics, and leather. There is a branch
line from Novara to Gozzano in 1 h. 15 m.
The Turin and Milan line is here crossed by
that from Genoa to Arona and Lucerne.
Vercelli (hotel, Tre Re), an episcopal
residence, containing 28,100 inhabitants.
But little of importance is to be seen.
The Cathedral contains some pictures and
MSS. The church of San Cristoforo pos-
sesses some good paintings by Lanini and
Ferrari. In the market-place may be seen
a statue of Cavour.
Santhia station. Branch line in 1 hour to
Bietta, a commercial town containing a
tine Cathedral, eight miles from which is
the celebrated pilgrimage church of the
Madonna d'Oropa.
ChiVusso station is then passed and Tu-
rin reached.
TURIN.
Hotel, de V Europe, is one of the finest
houses in Europe, on the Place Chateau,
opposite the Royal Palace. It has lately
been thoroughly renovated.
T U
1 Avitl'ca
2 ,C Carlo
3
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Corp
6 Freutcofoo cK t
1 Afcutrc. di Dia
8 Tenyria fald&re.
11 Armeria Keutf
12
13 J}orsa-ili Commercio
Casa Canoiir
Monuments
15 AU'E.rercito Stirdo
16
17 Balf>o,conte Cc.
18 Carlo Alberto
19 Emiuiuelf FiUbxrttt
20 Ciobfrti
21 JTanin JJanifle
22 PepetGen
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& sifiis > a>
24. A
25 .*
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27 ,//,"///
28 drJ Hura .// C.W,
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30 tii.Hfi^ijli-ati '.
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33 /'dfA/ r/,.// /. /-,
Theatres
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uul-UoU
[ITALY.]
TUBIS.
A seniv, n feeling that he loses not,
.utliing that informs him 'tig a moment
Whence he may date henceforward and for-
ever.
"To me they seemed the barriers of a world,
Saying thin far, no further '. and as o'er
The levtl plain I traveled silently,
Nearinir tiiem more and more day after day,
My wandering thoughts my only company,
And they before me still, oft a* I looked
A strange delight, mingled with fear, came
o'er me,
A wonder as at thing.-* I had not heard of!
Oft as 1 looked 1 felt as though it were
For uic the first time."
Turin contains 226,307 inhabitants' The climate of Turin is changeable, and,
(1881). It was made a military station at most tilnes ' Disagreeable. A lovely
by Julius Ciesar on the invasion of Gaul, j ran S e of hills ' called the Colllna di Tonnti,
"Turin is situated between the Dora Ri- i rise beyond the Po to the height o f 1600
paria and the Po, just beyond the junction
of these two rivers; it is of an oval shape,
four miles in circuit; it is now an unforti-
fied town, situated in a well-watered plain,
richly cultivated, approached by four roads
lined with forest trees. The city makes
but little show at a distance, in consequence
of being built on a flat ; there are not many
domes and towers, nor are they lofty, and
on looking down upon the city from tlu
feet ; many beautiful villas, with gardens
attached, are situated upon the summit.
The architecture of the city is attributed
to two celebrated persons, Guurini, em-
ployed by Carlo Emanucle II., and Juva-
ra, by Vittoria Amadeo II.
The Duonw. This is the oldest of the
sacred buildings of Turin, founded origin-
ally about the year 602 by Agilulph, king of
the Lombards. It has been much admired
surrounding hills, the red tile roofs give it i f r lts appearance ; the interior has recent-
a din _ry and unpleasant appearance; how- i ly been decorated with frescoes, among
ever, its clean street*, fine hotels, and the . which is a copy of the Ccnacola of Da Vin-
regularity of its formation cause it to be
mui-h admired. There is not a mean-look-
ing house in the city, and even the resi-
dences of the poorer classes are almost pal-
" Turin forms a perfect contrast with all
the cities we have been accustomed to see
in Italy; it is new, fresh, and regular, in-
stead of antique and in decay ; and the
buildings all alike are collectively magnifi-
cent, if not quite so in detail, the material
being only brick coated over in imitation
of stone. A profusion of running water
keeps the fine wide pavement clean. All
round the town, ancient trees, of luxuriant
growth, oppose their impenetrable shade to
The most remarkable of the few mon-
uments in the Cathedral is that of Claude
Seyssell, archbishop of Turin. In the chap-
el of Santo Sinode is preserved the wind-
ing-sheet of our Saviour. This Cathedral
was formerly one of the wealthiest church-
es in Italy. p()-;si'<-;ing as it did immensely
valuable treasures in the way of vases,
images, candlesticks, etc. The greater
part of them, however, have been sold to
pay for the erection of the bridge across
the Po in this city, and to improve the
Tuileries at Paris, and building the Rue de
Rivoli. In the s'icristy is a statue of the
Virgin under a silver-gilt canopy. On
the 8th of September a procession takes
the intolerable heat of the sun. The views ! place in honor of the nativity of the Vir-
of the Alps are magnificent."
1 Who first beholds those everlasting cloud?.
Seed-time and harvest, morning, noon, nnd
night,
Still where they wore, steadfast, immovable;
gin, also to commemorate the deliveramv
of the city from the French ; the illumina-
tions at the time of these possessions are
very beautiful.
The Chupel of Santo Sindone is one of
Who fir-t behold* the Alp?, that mighty chain the l>est efforts of Guarini. In the eapi-
Of mountains stretching on from en ft to west, t als of the columns the crown of thorns is
exquisitely interwoven with the acanthus
So mas-ive, yet so shadowy, PO ethereal,
Aa to belong rather to heaven than earth,
Bat instantly receives into his soul
leaves. The altar is of black marble, aod
798
TURIN.
TURIN.
the shrine which is placed upon it is of
gold, silver, and precious stones ; suspend-
ed from cither side are four silver lamps,
presented by the late queen ; the pave-
ment is beautifully inlaid with bronze
stars. Monuments to four of the most il-
lustrious members of the house of Savoy
have been placed around the sanctuary
by the king, Charles Albert. Here also
is a sitting statue of the queen, Marie
Adelaide.
Church of La Consnlata is located oppo-
site to the handsome column of granite
upon which is placed a statue of the Virgin
of the Consolation after the cessation of
the cholera.
Church ofdfl Corpus Domini, designed by
Count Allieri, is one of the grandest and
richest in Turin. In this church are three
paintings representing a miracle which oc-
curred in 1458, namely, the recover}- of a
piece of sacramental plate which contained
the blessed wafer. It was stolen by a sol-
dier during the pillage of Exilles. While
passing the church door, the vase fell from
the back of the ass which was carrying it
to the ground, and it was entirely de-
stroyed. The wafer ascended into the air,
and, surrounded with rays of most brilliant
light, remained suspended until it was tak-
en possession of by the bishop, who came
out to receive it.
The Palazzo Royal is located in the cen-
tre of the city, in the Piazza di Castcl/o, a
large, elegant square, in the centre of
which is the former palace of the dukes of
Savoy. The architecture of the royal pal-
ace is not particularly attractive, but the
apartments are large and richly adorned.
There are many paintings by artists of the
Flemish school and others, including Ti-
tian, Guercino, Albani, and Murillo. There
is also a line equestrian statue of Amadcus
I. The gardens attached to the palace are
open daily to the public from 11 to 3 in
summer, and are a fashionable resort. The
gates which separate the palace from the
Piazza are very magnificent the statues of
Cantor and Pol'ux were designed by San-
niorgio. In the private library of the
king, which is very extensive, are 40,000
printed volumes and 200 MSS., some of
which are very curious.
Palazzo Madam't is the ancient castle
situated in the centre of the Piazza Castel-
lo. It was so called after the mother of
794
Amadeus II. Here the Senate sat until
1865. In front of the palace stands a mon-
ument to the Sardinian army : it is of
white marble, and was erected by the Mi-
lanese in 1859.
A rmoria Regii, adjoining the royal pal-
ace, is one of the chief attractions of Turin.
Open daily by tickets from the secretary
of the Armory, obtained from 11 to 3 ; fee.
1 fr. It has been carefully arranged by
Count Seyssell d'Aix. The contributions
have been very numerous from private in-
dividuals and public institutions. There
are many valuable relics : among them is
the cuirass worn by Prince Eugene at the
battle of Turin, when the French were de-
feated ; full suit of Duke Emanuele Fili-
berto, worn at the battle of St. Quentin ;
cuirass worn by Carlo Emanuele III. at
the battle of Guastalla ; staff of Alfonso di
Ferrari ; two beautifully ornamented suits
which belonged to Antonio Martoningo of
Brescia; also shields, targets, helmets, and
some delicate stiletto;-, which were carried
by the Italian ladies; a crescent attribu-
ted to Benvenuto Cellini, and a splendid
illustration of the Labors of Hercules. The
collection of lire-arms as specimens of art
will be found interesting.
Near the Piazza Carignano is the Palaz-
zo dell' Accademia della Scienze, contain-
ing the Picture-Gallery and Museum of
Antiquities and Natural History, open daily
from 9 to 4.
The Royal Gallery of Paintings contains
a fine collection: in fifteen rooms over 500
paintings; catalogue, li fr. Among the
most valuable is the Madonna della Tenda,
on wood, by Raphael. It is of great beau-
ty, and has been purchased by a great num-
ber of persons, the last purchaser having
given 75,000 fr. for it ; Pharaoh's daughter
finding Moses, by Paul Veronese, into
which painting he has introduced his own
portrait ; Mary Magdalene washing the
feet of our Saviour at the table of the
Pharisee; allegorical painting of the four
elements, Earth, Air, Fire, and Water;
Holy Family, by Vandyke. The paint-
ings of the Battles, by Hugtenbnrgh, are
exceedingly interestin.'.
Museum of Antiquities. This collection
has acquired much importance by the ad-
dition of the Museo Egi/zo. There are
many interesting relics which should be
carefully examined. The statues, bronzes,
TURIN.
[ITALY.]
TURIN.
etc., possess great merit ; also the Etrus-
can vases and medals, which are very va-
ri.iu- uinl valuable.
The Museum of Natural History possesses
ainincralogirul collection which is very tine.
and will be highly appreciated by persons
who are interested and familiar with such
specimens. The zoological department has
been much increased and improved during ,
the past few years, under the care of Pro-
fessor di Filippi. There is a large collec-
tion of birds from Piedmont.
The Universita, Reale is a magnificent
building, and possesses many relics and in-
scriptions worthy of examination. It is a
flourishing institution, employing 60 pro-
fessors, and which, with the University of
Genoa, forms the two educational estab-
lishments of the monarchy. The library
contains 120,000 printed volumes and a
va.-t collection of MSS. The University
was founded in 1405, and has five faculties.
consisting of theology, law. medicine, sur-
gery, and the arts. It is usually attended
by 1200 students.
" The Piazza di San Carlo. This is the
principal and finest square in Turin. In
it is located the statue of Emanuele Fili-
berto, presented to the city by King Carlo
Alberto. The subjects represented are the
Battle of St. Quentin and the Treaty of
Chateau Cambrels. It was designed in I
the ablest manner by Baron Marochetti.
The Piazza Sitsini is remarkable on ac- ,
count of the line granite obelisk being lo- '
rated in its centre to commemorate histor-
ical events. It was erected in 1853.
The Piazza Vitturln Eni>i>in<'le, located at
the extremity of the Contrada del Po. It
is vast in size, and regular, and commands
a line view of the Po. At the east end is !
the bridge which connects the Piazza with
the opposite side of the river, and termi-
nates in front of the church of La Gran Ma-
rt re di Dio. The bridge was erected by the
French in 1810, and completed by Vittoria
Emanuele II.
I'i'izz'i Cavour. A magnificent monu-
ment was erected in this place, and unveil-
ed in presence of the king. November. 187.">.
to Italy's greatest .-t ite>inan. favour. On
a pedestal of red granite stands a white
marble statue of Cavour. with the figure of
Italy clasping his knees, and presenting
him with a crown of laurels. Around the
pedestal axe eight mar! Ic figures, and on its
sides are bas-reliefs of the Lion of St. Mark,
and Romulus and Remus suckled by the
She- Wolf. Below these is represented the
council where it was decided that Italy
should become the ally of France and En-
gland in the war with Russia. On the op-
-ide is represented the meeting of
Napoleon III. and Victor Emmanuel after
the battle of Solferino.
The Palaces of Turin are not particular-
ly remarkable. The Palazzo Carignano
is associated with many historical inci-
dents ; here the Constitution was proclaim-
ed in 1821. In front of the palace stands
a marble statue of the philosopher Giober-
ti, by Albertoni.
In the Piazza Carlo Alberti is a bronze
monument of King Charles Albert, by
Marochetti. It was cast in London.
The A rstnal contains a museum of artil-
lery. Shown only to strangers by special
permission from the war minister.
Th atres. There are many theatres in
Turin : the most important, however, is the
Teatro Uegio, designed by Count Allieri,
who was a native of Rome, and educated
a lawyer; his preference, however, was for
architecture, which caused him to revere
the names of those celebrated in the art,
such as Michael Angelo, and others. He
was employed by Carlo Emanuele II. upon
this theatre, which proved his fortune, as
he was afterward appointed court archi-
tect, and became the recipient of numerous
favors. He w.is esteemed the best archi-
tect of his time.
The Charitab'e Institutions of Turin arc
quite numerous. The most interesting is
the Ritiro della Rosina. originally founded
by Roso Govona for the benefit of those
persons who desire to earn their own liv-
ing. There is also a Magdalene Institu-
tion, founded by the Baroness Barol.
Aliove the iron bridge on the left bank
of the Po is situated the Public Garden. It
contains a botanical garden, and is a fa-
vorite promenade for the citizen-.
On the right bank of the river stands tht
handsome church of Gran Madre di D!o,
built in imitation of the Pantheon at Home.
It was ereci.'d in 1*1S. to commemorate the
return of Victor Emmanuel I. The columns
are ct' solid granite. Contiguous is the
' /la Reffina, a school for the daugh-
ters of Italian officers who have fallen in
battle.
795
TURIN.
[ITALY.]
VERRES.
The Campo Santo is situated on the road
to Chivasso, but contains few monuments
of note.
In Piazzi Solferino a fine monument
of the Duke of Genoa was unveiled by his
brother, the late king, in June, 1877.
Carriages, by the course, 1 fr. ; at night,
1 fr. 20 c. ; per hour, 1 fr. 50 c. ; two-horse
carnages, 2 fr. per hour.
Cafe-Restaurant della Meridiana, one of
the best in Turin, is in the Galleria Geisser,
off the Via Roma, at No. 18. French and
Italian cooking.
At a distance of about five miles from
Turin is situated the magnificent church
of IM Superga, erected according to a vow
made by Victor Amadous (Duke of Savoy)
in honor of the Virgin, and as a testimony
of gratitude to the God of Battles for hav-
ing given him a victory over the enemy.
It was on this spot that he and Prince Eu-
gene met to concert their plans for the at-
tack of the French and the deliverance of
the city in 170G. The fine, stately appear-
ance of this edifice is greatly increased by
its beautiful columns of different-colored
marble. The altars are decorated with
fine sculpture instead of paintings ; the
pavement is of variegated marble, and ev-
ery other portion of the building is equal-
ly elegant. From the cupola, into which
every person should ascend, a glorious
view is obtained of the surrounding coun-
try. This church is the resting-place of
the Prince of Savoy ; Carlo Alberto was
interred here in 1849.
A fine excursion may be made from Tu-
rin to Nice, or vice versa, via the Col di
Tenda, in 24 or 25 hours ; by rail to Cuneo
in 2 h. 30 m., fare 9 fr. 60 c. ; thence to
Nice by Messageries in 22 hours ; through
fare, 32 fr. Near the town of Racconigi
there is a royal chateau, once a favorite re-
treat of Carlo Alberto, father of Victor
Emmanuel. At Cannagnola there is a
railroad which branches off to meet the
Nice and Genoa line at Savona. Carmag-
no'a was the birthplace of the celebrated
Italian general Francisco Bussone, orig-
inally a swineherd. He conquered the
greater part of Lombardy, was made com-
mander -in -chief of the Venetian army,
but was afterward beheaded by an order
from the Council of Ten. At Savig'iano
there is a branch railway to Saluzzo and
Cuneo, the terminus of the railway. This
7%
was formerly a fortified town, but was
dismantled after the battle of Marengo.
For three or four months during winter
the pass is crossed with sledges. Rail
from Turin to Genoa in 4 h. 2 m. ; fare,
18 fr. 45 c.
ROUTE No. 205.
Turin to A osta, via Ivrea (P<iss of Si.
Bernard). Time, 13 hours ; fare, 14 fr.
By railway to Ivrea in 4 hours ; diligences
to Aosta in 9 hours.
Chivasso. See Route No. 204.
Ivrea (hotel, Europe) contains 10,GOO in-
habitants. It is the capital of the prov-
ince of the same name. It contains a Ca-
thedral, lately restored. It is a place of
great antiquity, being the Eporedia of the
Romans, and inhabited by that nation as
a fortress 100 years B.C., in order to com-
mand the passes of the Great and Little
St. Bernard. Ivrea is an episcopal see,
and is commanded by an ancient castle,
now a prison.
Passing on the right the castle of Mont-
alto, and the villages of Settimo-Vittorie
and Carema,
Pont St. Martin is reached. A short
distance above is a Roman bridge, which
crosses the Lysbach ; there is here, also, a
ruined castle, which adds to the natural
beauties of the landscape. The road as-
cends through a narrow defile and reaches
Fort Bard, standing on a mass of rock
1000 feet high, and completely command-
ing the pass ; in 1800 the Austrians here
kept the French army in check for over
two weeks after its passage over the St.
Bernard. A field-piece, however, was con-
veyed to the top of Monte Albaredo, which
commands the fort, and a passage was
forced.
Verres is handsomely situated at the
entrance to the Valley of Challant, Hotel,
Con ran ne.
The road leads past the ruins of the an-
cient castle of St. Germain and through the
Roman rock-hewn defile of Montjovet, past
ALESSANDRIA.
[ITALY.]
MARENUO.
the village of the same name, and enters
into the picturesque valley of Aosta. l'a->-
ing the bathing establishments and miner-
al springs of /St. Vincent (hotel, Lion cTOr)
and Chiitillon (Hotel de Londrei), a rather
handsome town and the capital of the dis-
trict, the town of
A osta is reached. Hotel du Mont Blanc.
For description of the town and of the
Pass of St. Bernard, see Route No. 4, vol.
ui., Switzerland.
ROUTE No. 206.
Turin to Nice, via Cuneo and the Col di
Tendo. For description of the Route, see
" Excursion from Turin," Route No. 204.
ROUTE No. 207.
Arona to Genoa, via Alessandria. Time,
5 hours ; fare, first class, 19 fr. 65 c. ;
second class, 13 fr. 75 c.
Arona, described in Route No. 203.
Novara, described in Route No. 204.
[From station Mortara to Milan there
is a new line, more direct from Genoa to
Milan than via Novara and Magenta.
Time, 5 hours; passing Vige ratio, situated
on the Ticino, containing 15,500 inhabit-
ants, and of considerable importance in the
silk trade.]
Crossing the Po by a bridge of twenty-
one arches, Valenza station is reached,
whence there is a line to VerceUi.
Alessandria (Alexandria) hotels, De
I 1 Unifiers, Europu, and Aquila contains a
population of 57,250, and is the most
VOL. II. M
remarkable monument of the Lombard
League, situated between the Tanaro and
Bormida. It has been strongly fortified
by the sovereigns of the house of Savoy.
The most prominent and interesting feat-
ure of the city is the citadel, built in 1728.
In the centre of the fortress, which is im-
mensely large, are a parish church, exten-
sive armories, and barracks. The Duomo.
The principal work of art in this building
is the colossal statue of St. Joseph of Parodi.
Of the palaces, the (inest specimen is the
Pa'-azz'i Gkilino, built by Count Alfieri,
now belonging to the king.
There are but few attractions in Ales-
sandria. In April and October two large
business fairs are held here, and goods are
arranged and sold in a kind of bazar erect-
ed for this purpose. It is both expensive
and inconvenient to stop in the city while
these fairs are going on. Alessandria was
founded in the 12th century. It has al-
ways been considered one of the bulwarks
of Italy on the side of France. The prin-
cipal manufactures are silk, cloth, and lin-
en. Churches are numerous ; there are
also hospitals, a town house, gymnasium,
theatre, public library, etc. A line con-
nects Alessandria with Savona, via Acqui,
the A qua Statie'ce of the Romans, an epis-
copal town of 9000 inhabitants. Its min-
eral waters are quite celebrated.
The battle-iield of Marengo lies a little
east of the town. This was one of Napo-
leon's hardest-fought battles. Abbott, in
his Life of Napoleon, describes this action :
"Before daybreak on the morning of the
14th of June, Melas, the Austrian general,
having accumulated 40,000 men, including
7000 cavalry and 200 pieces of cannon, made
an impetuous assault upon the French, but
20,000 in number, drawn up upon the plain
of Marengo. Desaix, with a reserve of
6000 men, was at such a distance, nearly
30 miles, from Marengo that he could not
possibly be recalled before the close of
the day. The danger was frightful that
the French would be entirely cut to pieces
before any succor could arrive. But the
quick ear of Desaix caught the sound of
the heavy cannonade as it came booming
over the plain like distant thunder. He
sprang from his couch and listened. The
heavy and uninterrupted roar proclaimed
a pitched battle, and he was alarmed for
his beloved chief. Immediately he roused
797
MAREXGO.
[ITALY.]
MARENGO.
his troops, and they started upon the rush
to succor their comrades. Napoleon dis-
patched courier aftsr courier to hurry the
division along, while his troops stood firm
through terriiic hours as their ranks were
plowed by the murderous discharges of
their foes. At last the destruction was too
awful for mortal man to endure. Many
divisions of the army broke and fled, cry-
ing, 'All is lost: save himself who can/'
"A scene of frightful disorder ensued.
The whole plain was covered with fugi-
tives, swept like an inundation before the
multitudinous Austrian*. Napoleon still
held a few squares together, who slowly
and sullenly retreated, while 290 pieces of
artillery, closely pressing them, poured in-
cessant death into their ranks. Every foot
of ground was left encumbered with the
dead. It was now 3 o'clock in the after-
noon. Melas, exhausted with toil, and as-
sured that he had gained a complete vic-
tory, left General Zach to finish the work.
He retired to his head-quarters, and im-
mediate^- dispatched couriers over all Eu-
rope to announce the great victory of Ma-
rengo. ' Melas is too sanguine,' said an
Austrian veteran, who had before encoun-
tered Napoleon at Arcola and Kivoli ; 'de-
pend upon it, our day's work is not yet
done. Napoleon will !>e yet upon us with
his reserve.' Just then the anxious eye
of the First Consul espied the solid col-
umns of Desaix entering the plain. De-
saix, plunging his spurs into his horse,
outstripped all the rest, and gallopad into
the presence of Napoleon. As he cast a
glance over the wild confusion and devas-
tation of the field, he exclaimed hurriedly,
' I see that the battle is lost. I suppose I
can do no more for you than to secure your
retreat.' ' By no means,' Napoleon replied,
with apparently as much composure as if
he had been sitting by his own fireside ;
' the battle, I trust, is gained. Charge with
your column. The disordered troops will
rally in your rear.'
"Like a rock, Desaix, with his solid
phalanx of 10,000 men, met the on-rolling
billow of Austrian victory. At the same
time, Napoleon dispatched an order to Kol-
lermann with his cavalry to charge the tri-
umphant column of the Austrians in Hank.
It was the work of a moment, and the \vhole
aspect of the field was changed. Napoleon
rode along the lines of those on the retreat,
798
exclaiming. ' My friends, we have retreat-
ed far enough. It is now our turn to ad-
vance. Hecollect that I am in the habit
of sleeping on the field of battle.'
"The fugitives, reanimated by the ar-
rival of the reserve, immediately rallied
in their rear. The double charge in front
and flank was instantly made. The Aus-
trians were checked and staggered. A
tornado of bullets from Desaix's division
swept their ranks. They poured an an-
swering volley into the bosoms of the
French. A bullet pierced the heart of
Desaix, and he fell, and almost immediate-
ly expired. His last words were, ' Tell the
First Consul that my only regret in dying
is to have perished before having done
enough to live in the recollection of pos-
terity.'
" The soldiers, who devotedly loved him,
saw his fall, and rushed more madly on to
avenge his death. The swollen tide of
uproar, confusion, and dismay now turned,
and rolled in surging billows in the oppo-
site direction. Hardly one moment now
elnpsed before the Austrians, flushed with
victory, found themselves overwhelmed by
defeat. In the midst of this terrific scene,
an aid rode up to Napoleon and said, ' De-
saix is dead.' But a moment before they
were conversing side by side. Napoleon
pressed his head convulsively with his
hand, and exclaimed mournfully, ' AVhy is
it not permitted me to weep!' Victory at
such a price is dear.
" The French now made the welkin ring
with shouts of victor\\ Indescribable dis-
may filled the Austrian ranks as wildly
they rushed before their unrelenting pur-
suers. Their rout was utter and hopi'lrss.
When the sun went down on this field of
blood, after twelve hours of the most fright-
ful carnage, a scene was presented horrid
enough to appal the heart of a demon.
More than 20,000 human beings were
strewn upon the ground, the dying and
the dead weltering in gore, and in every
conceivable form of disfiguration. Horses,
with limbs torn from their bodies, were
struggling in convulsive agonies. Frag-
ments of guns and swords, and of military
wagons of every description, were strewed
around in wild ruin. Frequent piercing
cries, which agony extorted from the lac-
erated victims of war, rose above the gen-
eral meanings of anguish, which, like wail-
GE
Harpe
OA
and -Book .
Novi.
[ITALY.]
GEXOA.
ings of the storm, fell heavily upon the oar.
The shades of night were now descending
upon this awful scene of misery. The mul-
titude of the wounded was so great that,
notwithstanding the utmost exertions of
the surgeons, hour after hour of the long
night lingered away, while thousands of
the wounded and the dying bit the dust in
their agony."
\oi-i is situated on an eminence to the
right. It is noted for the quality of silk
grown in the district. It was the scene of
a defeat the French sustained in 1799 by
the Austrian? and Russians under Suwar-
row. Gen. Joubert was killed. The town
contains a citadel and 11,500 inhabitants.
Genoa is situated at the head of the gulf
of that name. Principal hotels :
Grand Hotel de GUnes, a new house, very
well frequented : and the
Grand Hotel Isotta, first class, with lift;
also proprietor of the
Hotel de France, Place de la Bourse.
Genoa is a city of great antiquity ; It
contains a population of 162,675. In the
llth century, after many vicissitudes, she
became the capital of an independent re-
public, and by her extensive commerce,
and her settlements and dependencies in
various parts of the Mediterranean and
Black Seas, was greatly distinguished. Ri-
val interests involved the Genoese in a
long-continued conflict with the republics
of Pisa and Venice ; the latter was the
most remarkable, in the annals of the Mid-
dle Ages, occurring between the years 137C
and 1382. The Venetians were defeated
at Polo, and, had the Genoese immediate-
ly followed up their successes, would have
taken Venice ; but, by their procrastina-
tion, allowed the Venetians sufficient time.
to recover from the dilemma into which
they had been thrown, and were thereby
compelled to retire. From that date Ven-
ice gained the ascendency. The govern-
ment of Genoa was for a long time in a
revolutionary state, and contests were con-
stantly arising between the nobility and
citizens. It was not until 1756 that it be-
came tranquil. In 1797 the city was taken
by the French, but after the downfall of
Napoleon was assigned, together with the
adjacent territory, to the King of Sardinia
by the Congress of Vienna in 1815.
The land on which Genoa is built rises
to the height of 500 feet, and gives it a
grand and imposing appearance, especially
from the sea. In the background rise the
Apennines, which, during a portion of the
year, are covered with snow. The city
has been frequently increased in size, and
its walls very much enlarged ; some traces
of the old Roman walls are yet visible.
At the end of the 17th century this mag-
nificent city was bombarded, and almost
reduced to ashes, by Louis XIV., whom
she had offended by selling ammunition to
the pirates, and for building ships for the
Spanish navy. The Doge and principal
senators were sent to Paris to deprecate tha
vengeance of Louis. The old portion of
the city is laid out in narrow, crooked
streets, but in the newer portion they are
wide and handsome. The climate is pure,
and tha atmosphere healthy ; it is well
supplied with water brought from the River
Bisagno. Beggars here are few in num-
ber, which makes it more agreeable than
most Italian cities.
The harlxr is well inclosed, and protect-
ed by two gigantic moles, the Molo Vecchio
and .l/o/o Xu/tm; rising to a height of 384
feet above the level of the sea is the light-
house, which exhibits a flashing light that
revolves, and may be seen nearly 30 miles
on a clear night ; it should be ascended by
those who wish to procure a fine view.
On the north side of the harbor is the arse-
nal, to which has recently been added a
dry-dock; here also is a prison for con-
victs, who are still known by the name of
galley-slaves.
The style of architecture in Genoa is
very magnificent ; some of the gates of en-
trance to the palaces are 40 feet high ;
there are not as many remains of ancient
splendor as in Venice, hut more actual
wealth and comfort. The palaces are su-
perior in style to those of Rome ; the roofs
are frequently flat, and adorned wivh
shrubs and such trees as the orange, lem-
on, pomegranate, oleander, etc., 24 feet in
height, refreshed by fountains which play
constantly during the heat of summer.
The Genoese are an extremely indus-
trious people : the females arc quite inter-
esting in their appearance, well-propor-
tioned, slight frame, ('.ark hair and < \ >>.
with a countenance brilliant and express-
ive. Their graceful appearance id in-
799
GENOA.
[ITALY.]
GENOA.
creased by the long flowing veil which
they wear, fastened in the hair with gold
pins, and then fulling modestly around
their necks and shoulders, showing, at the
same time, their pretty faces through the
mist of snow-white illusion.
The Corso is the celebrated promenade
where the young and old, grave and gay,
enjoy all the sociability that exists in Ge-
noa, visiting not being at all customary
within doors.
The renowned discoverer of America,
Christopher Columbus, was born at Genoa,
or in the suburbs, in 1436 : he was the son
of a cloth manufacturer in Genoa. It is
asserted by some that he was born at
Coyo/eto, but there is no reason for believ-
ing the statement. A monument has been
erected to his memorj-. It is situated near
the railway station. At the feet of the
statue, which rests on an anchor, the figure
of America is kneeling ; the whole is com-
posed of white marble. There are four al-
legorical figures, representing Geography,
Religion, Strength, and Wisdom. It was
erected in 1862. Columbus was a man of
penetrating genius, and constantly am-
bitious of accomplishing something that
would perpetuate his fame, and at the same
time gratify his passion of curiosity and
love of adventure. He first applied to
Genoa, his native place, for assistance to
attempt discoveries in the "Western seas,
but was refused, and regarded as visiona-
ry. The same ill success attended him
upon application to the courts of Portugal
and England. He finally applied to Spain,
where he received encouragement from
Ferdinand and Isabella in the way of three
small ships and 17,000 ducats. He soon
discovered the islands of Cuba and His-
paniola, which he took possession of. Fer-
dinand and Isabella were now prevailed
upon to fit out a new armament to enable
him to make farther discoveries; so, the
second time, he Bailed with a fleet of 17
ships, and discovered the Caribbee Islands
and Jamaica. In his third voyage he dis-
covered the continent toward that p-irt of
South America where Carth^geua was aft-
erward built.
CHURCHES.
The Cathedral of San Lorenzo was built
in the llth century, in Gothic style, with
a singular exterior, being formed of hori-
800
' zontal stripes of white and black marble.
It has but one tower, although two were
evidently intended originally. Some of
the inscriptions in the church give the his-
tory of the foundation of the city. The
choir and side chapels, which have been
modernized, are covered with paintings,
gilding, and carving. A fine statue of the
! Madonna and Child in bronze, a work of
the 17th century, by G. P. Bianchi, deco-
rates the high-altar. By far the most
beautiful portion of the church is the Chap-
\ el of fit. John the Baptist. Females are pro-
hibited by a law of Pope Innocent VIII.
, from entering here, except on one day of
| the year, the saint's death being at the in-
stigation of a woman. The canopy over
the altar, covering the sarcophagus, in
which are deposited the relics of the Bap-
tist, was erected at the private expense of
Filippo Doria in 1532. The relics of the
saint, which are contained in an iron-bound
chest, are carried in procession on the day
of his birth, being placed in the Cassone di
San Gifminni, a shrine which is carefully
preserved in the treasury of the Cathedral.
It is composed of silver-gilt, and the sides
represent the history of St. John. There
is in the treasury, however, a still more in-
teresting relic, the Sacro Catino, which was
taken at Caesarea 1101. It is said to be
the dish from which Christ ate the Last
Supper. It was originally presented to
King Solomon by the Queen of Sheba, and
afterward preserved in the Temple. At
the time the combined armies of Genoa and
Pisa captured Caesarea, the Genoese took
the emerald dish for their share of the
booty, and it was brought to Genoa, where
it was held in such veneration that twelve
nobles were appointed to guard it. It was
only exhibited once a year, and then the
priest held it by a cord while viewed by
the crowd. So valuable was it then con-
sidered that the Jews lent the Genoese
4,000,000 francs on it within fifty years.
It was borrowed of Italy by Napoleon in^
1809, among other relics, and it remained;
in Paris until 1815. It was broken, how-
ever, and was then ascertained to be mere-
ly an ancient specimen of glass, which
caused the Genoese to lose their belief in
the relic, and was a loss of capital of near-
ly a million dollars.
Church of ISAnnunziuta, second in size
to the Cathedral, was erected at the private
GEXOA.
[ITALY.]
GKJJOA.
expense of the Lomellini family. This is
truly a magnificent building, rich in deco-
rations and highly colored frescoes. Over
the entrance is the famous Cenacola of
Procaccini. The rich marbles in the inte-
rior of this church give it an appearance
of great beauty.
Church of s'l. A mbrogio di Gesit. This is
also a. monument of private munificence,
erected by the Pallavicini family. It is
richly decorated in gold and colors. Here
are several fine paintings the Assump-
tion, by Guido, and the Circumcision, by
Rubens.
Church of Santa Maria di Carignmo,
built by the Sauli family at a very great
expense. They also erected the bridge
leading to it. From the cupola on top of
the church, which is easy of ascent, a fine
view of Genoa may be obtained.
Church of St. Stefano delta Porta is prin-
cipally noted for a fine altar-piece, repre-
senting the martyrdom of the patron saint,
the joint work of Raphael and Guido Ro-
mano.
Church of San Malteo is an interesting
little edifice, and is the burial-place of the
Dorias. It has always remained under the
patronage of the family, and the interior
was very beautifully decorated and recon-
structed at the expense of the celebrated
Andrea Doria. Many of the tombs and
inscriptions are very curious.
Church of San Siro. This is the most
ancient church in Genoa, and the one to
which is attached the most important his-
torical associations. It was here, in 1339,
that Simone Boccanegra was inaugurated
the first Doge of Genoa : and in 1257 Giug-
lielmo Boccanegra was proclaimed Capita-
no del Popolo.
PALACES.
There are multitudes of these, and, in
this "city of palaces," an attempt at de-
scription would be but a fruitless endeav-
or ; they are generally very beautiful, and
contribute their share toward sustaining
the title with which the city has been en-
dowed, of " La Superba." They are rich in
paintings, and are generally thrown open
to visitors. The principal and most at-
tractive buildings are situated upon the
Strada Xuovo and Strada Balbi.
Palazzo Brignole contains the finest col-
lection of paintings in Genoa ; fee. 1 franc.
Catalogues for the use of visitors. The
works of Titian, Guido, Paul Veronese,
! Louis Caracci. Carlo Dolci, Paris Bordone,
Vandyke, Rubens, Guercino, Caravaggio,
j and Giordano are here in abundance.
: There is also a model of a monument, in
! bronze and marble, to Columbus, executed
at the individual expense of the Marquis
Brignoli.
Palazzo Pallavicini possesses the second
! best collection of paintings in Genoa :
they are principally works of the best mus-
ters.
Palazzo Dorio Torsi. This palace for-
merly belonged to the Queen-Dowager of
Sardinia. It is now occupied by the mu-
nicipality of Genoa. Among the curiosi-
ties is a bust of Columbus, and some of his
most interesting MSS. preserved under
triple lock and key. There is also a bronze
table kept as one of the most remarkable
monuments of Genoese history.
The Palazzo Balbi is handsomely dec-
orated, and contains a good collection of
paintings on the first floor; fee, 1 franc.
A Titi m, St. Jerome ; a Madonna, by Van-
dyke ; Conversion of St. Paul, by Cara-
vaggio ; a Holy Family, by Guido, also one
by llemlin;i ; \\ith numerous others by Jiu-
bens, Michael Angela, Schiavone, and Ber-
nardino, and others of nearly equal merit.
Palazzo Rea'e, formerly the palace of the
Durazzo family, was fitted up in splendid
style as a royal residence for Charles Al-
bert in 1842. Shown daily in the absence
of the royal family : the apartments are
very fine, but most of the valuable pictures
have been removed to Turin.
Palazzo Doria. This, by far the most
interesting palace of all, is situated in the
centre of a beautiful garden, which extends
to the sea, and forms a fine feature in the
picturesque scenery of Genoa. The in-
scription on the exterior of the edifice ex-
presses the stately feelings of Doria, also
called " II Principe," which title he re-
ceived from Charles V. Many portions
of the architecture were designed by Piero-
na del Vaga, who was received kindly and
employed faithfully by Doria, after having
been driven from Rome in a poor and sor-
rowful condition by the calamities which
had befallen the F.ternal City when storm-
ed by the Imperialists in 1527. The dec-
orations of this palace areextremelv beau-
tiful. Among the pictures are portraits of
801
GEXOA.
[ITALY.]
GENOA.
Andrea Doria and family. In the garden
are walks of cypress and orange ; also
fountains, statue?, and vases. A monu-
ment was here erected by Doria to '' II
gran Roldano," a great dog presented to
him by Charles V. The Doria family, to
whom the palace belongs, generally reside
at Rome.
The Palazzo della Universita contains a
library of upward of 40,000 volunu-s : nl-o
a museum of natural history and a me-
teorological observatory. The University
consists of three faculties, Law, Medicine,
and Humanities, each of which is gov-
erned by a senate composed of twelve
directors, by whom the degrees are con-
ferred.
The Palazzo Ducale, now converted into
government offices, was formerty the res-
idence of the Doges of the republic, who
were elected to office for two years. The
front of the building is exceedingly attract-
ive, as is also the vestibule, which is sup-
ported by 80 columns of white marble.
Hank of St. George, the oldest bank of
circulation in Europe. It was founded in
1407. and to it are attached many histor-
ical reminiscences. The Ijoggia <le Bancho,
now used as the Exchange, remains an in-
teresting monument of the former com-
mercial splendor of Genoa.
The Public Institutions are quite numer-
ous and of great merit. A deaf-and-dumb
institute, very celebrated in Italy, founded
by a poor monk in 1801. Three hospitals,
the principal of which is the Albergo di
Poveri, a fine massive structure, very neat
and clean, and covers a great deal of
ground ; 23,000 persons can be accommo-
dated in this charitable institution. This
building contains the finest piece of sculp-
ture in Genoa, a li Dead Christ," by Mi-
chael Angelo.
Accademia Ligustica delle Belle Arti.
This academy is resorted to by a large
number of pupils. The vestibule contains
a collection of mediaeval sculpture. The
second contains the picture -gallery and
sculpture -room, with modern casts. In
the same building is the J'ultlic Lilnu-y,
containing 50,000 volumes.
Theatns. The Teatro Curio Fe'ice is
the principal one, and is next in size to La
Scala at Milan and the San Carlo at Na-
ples. In the summer and early in Decem-
ber it is open for the regular drama : in
802
the spring for operas and ballets : and in
the autumn for operas alone.
Situated on an eminence at the north-
east end of the town is the Public Garden,
the favorite promenade of the citizens. It
is adorned with a fountain, and the Cafe
d'ltalie is a universal resort. There are
military concerts on Sunday afternoons.
Cabs, per course, 80 c. ; per hour, 1 fr. 50 c.
Genoa is noted for its silver and gold fil-
igree-work, of which visitors arc certain to
procure a specimen.
In Genoa the manufactures of silk vel-
vets and plain silk stuffs, black and colored,
are very extensive. They have been cele-
brated for centuries, and are real special-
ties, noted for their beauty, solidity, and
wear, while the price is much lower than
in France.
An excursion that every one visiting
Genoa should make is to the villa of the
Marquis Pallavicini. This most lovely of
villas is situated about seven miles from
the city, and can be reached by rail in
thirty minutes. It is necessary to obtain
tickets of admission for the number of per-
sons wishing to go to the Palace Pallavi-
cini in Genoa previous to leaving. One
of the gardeners acts as guide, and expects
2 fr. fee per person. It requires two hours
to see the gardens and park ; they are only
open from 11 to 3 : one must make rather
an exact calculation in regard to time. It
would require a small volume to describe
the beauties and curiosities of the place.
The park is planted with immense laurel-
trees and India pines, while tropical trees,
plants, and flowers of the rarest kind flour-
ish in abundance. Fail not to enter the
Grotto of Stalactites, and take passage on
board a boat which you will find ready to
receive you on the subterranean lake, and
imagine yourself on a mythological excur-
sion. Cascades, temples, Egyptian obe-
Jisks, Turkish kiosks, and most lovely views
meet your exit. With people of very lively
humor the guide sometimes plays pranks
by touching springs, when showers of wa-
ter descend on their devoted heads, and,
when attempting to flee from the disaster,
full it comes in their faces from another
GENOA.
[ITALY.]
PA VIA.
direction. There are beautiful summer-
houses of most inviting appearance but
woe to the individual who enters ; from
even' blossom comes a stream of water..
Your guide will induce you to take a swing
in a handsome iron chair, and immediately
vou are the centre of a cross-fire of waters
coming from every direction. A magnifi-
cent hotel has lately been erected here
the Grand Hotel Pegli where travelers
will find it to their advantage to make a
prolonged stay.
There are steamers daily to Leghorn, in
9 hours ; fare, 32 fr. GO c. To Marseilles
daily, in 20 hours ; fare, 76 fr. ; fee for em-
barkation, 1 fr.
Genoa to Paris. Time, 2G h. SO m.,viu
Mt. Cenis ; fare, first class, 119 fr.
Genoti tn Pisii. Time, 4 li. 21 in.; fare,
first class, 18 fr. 15 c. ; second class, 13 fr.
60 c.
Genoa to Nice. Time, C h. -10 m.; fare,
first class, 25 fr. 35 c. ; second class, 18 fr.
10 c.
Genoa to Mllnn. Time, 3 h. 58 m. ; fare,
first class, 17 fr. 80 c.; second class, 12 fr.
10 c.
Genoa to Florence, in 7 h. 20 m., 27 fr.
70 c. ; second class, 19 fr. 45 c.
Genoa to Rome, via Livorno, in 13 h. 5 m. ;
63 fr. 5 c. (express).
Genoa to Lucerne, via Alessandria, No-
vara, Bellinzona, and the St. Gothard, by
rail, in 13 h. 30 in. : 53 fr. 45 c. (express
fare) ; 427 km. ; to Luino (diligence to
Varese or Lugano), in 5 h. 55 m. ; 26 fr.
25 c. (Swiss frontier) ; to hellinzona, 7 h.
10 m. ; 32 fr. 70 c. ; 251 km. ; to Zurich,
14i h. ; to Berne, 17 h. ; to Basle, 16 h.
30 m.
ROUTE Xo. 208.
Milan t) Gf-mxt. rin J\ivi<t. Time, 4 h.
45 m. ; fare, first ela-s, 17 fr. 25 c. ; second
class, 12 fr. 10 c,
As the principal object of this route is to
visit the celebrated Ctrto.ia of /V</, per-
haps a day would be better spent in making
an excursion from Milan and return. A
day will be well spent in this excursion,
as it is considered the richest and most
splendid monastery in the world.
The railway had better be taken to
Pavia, in fifty minutes, devoting two hours
to that town ; then take a carriage and
drive to the Certosa, and return to Milan
either from Pavia or from the station delta
Cei'tosa, only fifteen minutes' walk from the
Certosa.
The Certosa, or Carthusian monastery,
was founded by Gian Galeazza Visconti,
the first duke of Milan, in 1396. It was
built to relieve his conscience of the mur-
der of his uncle and father-in-law. Twenty-
five monks were appointed to take charge
of it, which they did until they were ex-
pelled in 1782 ; from this date until 1*10
it was occupied by other orders, after which
it was closed. In 1844 it was restored to
its original destination, and presented to
the Carthusians. A lay brother generally
conducts visitors through the building, and
as it is kept in order by donations and fees,
visitors should be liberal in their gifts.
The facade is entirely covered with dif-
ferent-colored marbles, in most exquisite
style and taste. The most distinguished
Lombard masters for two centuries had a
share in its decoration.
The body of the church consists of a
nave with aisles, surmounted by a dome.
On each side are seen elegant chapels
adorned with monuments, pictures, and
precious stones. The transepts and choir
are separated from the rest of the church
by a magnificent screen of bronze. The
south transept contains the monument of
the founder, commenced in 1490, and not
completed for 70 years. The north tran-
sept contains monuments of Ludovico il
Moro and his wife, Beatrice d'Este. The
choir, altar, and choir-stalls are beautiful-
ly carved and decorated with figures of the
apostles and saints.
Notice in the old Sacristy the exquisitely
carved ivory altar-piece, executed by Leo-
nardo df' L'brlachi. In the altar-piece of
the Oratorio is an Assumption, by Solaria.
The small cloister of fifty round arches eon-
tains numerous bas-reliefs in terra-cotta.
The great cloister is surrounded by 21 eells
for the monks, each consisting of three
rooms, with a small garden.
J'arii (hotel, Ci'oce Bi-mca) contains
30,000 inhabitants, and is situated at the
junction of the Ticino and Po. Some of
803
VOGHERA.
[ITALY.]
CREMONA.
its old walls and fortifications arc still in a
fair state of preservation. Its old Citstle
is now used as a barrack.
The Cathedral, still unfinished, occupies
the site of an ancient basilica. The gate-
way and campanile are all that remain.
The interior of the church contains the
Area di S. Agostino, adorned with nearly
three hundred allegorical figures. A model
of the church, as it was intended to be fin-
ished, is shown.
The old church of S. Michele deserves a
visit. It dates from the llth century, but
has been restored.
The University, said to have been found-
ed by Charlemagne, is the oldest in Europe.
In the first court is a marble statue of An-
tonio Bordone, a celebrated mathematician ;
in the second are three other statues of pro-
fessors.
The Casa Malaspina contains some pict-
ures, and mediaeval marbles and other curi-
osities.
From Pavia to Va'enza, by railway, in
two hours.
Voffhera (hotel, Italia), a town of 11,000
inhabitants, but containing nothing to in-
terest the traveler.
The remainder of the Route is described
in Route No. 207.
ROUTE No. 209.
Brescia to Pavia, via Cremona. Time,
5 hours; fare, first class, 13 fr. 90 c. ; second
class 9 fr. 80 c. For description of Bres-
cia, see Route No. 200.
Cremona (hotel, Italia) contains 31,500
inhabitants, and is handsomely situated on
the left bank of the Po. It contains very
little to draw the traveler within its limits.
Its ancient history is a series of brawls and
fights with the neighboring towns Milan,
Piacenza, Brescia, and Crema. The Em-
peror Henry VII. nearly destroyed it in
1312, and the Visconti completed the work.
It was later the property of Milan. In 1702
Prince Eugene here surprised the French
804
under Marshal Villeroi, and took him pris-
oner. The Austrians also defeated the
French here in 1799.
Cremona has been noted for many cen-
turies for the manufacture of lutes and vio-
lins, the art being hereditary in families.
The most celebrated were those manufact-
ured by A matt, 1590-1735; that family was
succeeded by the Stradivari and Guarnei i ;
but many other cities are now superior to
Cremona in the manufacture of these in-
struments.
The Cathedral of Cremona dates from
the early part of the 12th century, although
not consecrated until towards the close of
that epoch. It is built in the German-
Lombard style, its facade being finely em-
bellished with columns. Its interior is
covered with frescoes by Cremona aitists.
Close to the Cathedral stands the lending
object of interest here, viz., the Torra^zo,
or great tower, said to be the highest in
Italy 396 feet. It was erected between
1262 and 1284, to commemorate the peace
between Cremona, Milan, Piacenza, and
Brescia.
The Palazzo Reale contains a small
gallery of pictures, collection of coins,
and natural history ; open daily from
9 to 3.
The Baptistery dates from the 12th cen-
tury ; it is of octagonal form, and contains
some very ancient mosaics.
The Campo Santo is now used for the
archives of the Cathedral. In one of its
vaults are some curious old mosaics, with
allegorical figures : it is difficult to deter-
mine what they represent.
Some of the private palaces of Cremona
are handsome buildings, and contain some
good paintings and other works of art;
among them are San Secundo, Casa Vidoni,
JKaimondi, and Sigismondo, a short distance
from the town.
Near the village of Le Torri is the Sacra-
doti, with a handsome park.
Half the distance between Cremona and
Bergamo is situated Crema, an ancient town
of 9900 inhabitants. It is an episcopal resi-
dence, and contains an old castle.
Pavia. See Route No. 208.
A to
MANTUA
18
19 Osped*! ,-ivUe
20 OffMltU mOilare
21 Ttatro Seientiftco
-- Tfatro Rigui
23 Teatre altOa Saeitta,
Teatro PifyUtasio
- 25 ifflno d*Ua fbita.
26
27 />/VT rW /iMlica Orolfgio
Ha rpr' t Hand - Book .
LAOO D'ISEO.
[ITALY.]
MANTUA.
ROUTE No. 210.
Srescit to Tirana ; thence to the Baths
of Bormio and the Bormio Pass to Bremen/.
via Lago d'Isco. Sec Route No. 55, Bmtz-
erlund, vol. iii.
Brescia, described in Route No. 200.
Diligence daily to Edolo in 14 hours ;
fare, 7 fr. ; three times each week from
Edolo to Tirau ; fare, 4 fr. A carriage
might be taken to Iseo, 11 miles on the
lake ; thence by steamer to Sarnico in 2 h.
30 m. ; carriage to Tirano.
This is a route not to be particularly
recommended, unless the traveler have
plenty of time. The scenery is pretty, but
does not compare with Como ; the travel-
ing not so comfortable, nor the hotels so
good.
About 11 miles from Brescia is Iseo, a
small town situated on the lake of the
same name ; steamer from Sarnico to Lo-
vere twice daily.
Logo d'lseo is 15J miles long, and aver-
ages 1^ wide. The scenery is a little more
wild than that of Como. The soil of its
banks is highly cultivated. In the centre
of the lake there is a small island 1^ miles
long, called Mezz /so o, which contains two
fishing villages.
At Pisogne, near the end of the lake, the
scenery is very beautiful.
Lovere (hotels, San Antonio and Postd),
a small town at the head of the lake. Palaz-
zo Tadini contains a small picture-gallery,
and a collection of natural history and an-
tiquities. The family chapel contains a
monument of Canova.
Omnibuses daily between Lovere and
Edolo and Lovere and Bergamo.
Breno, fourteen miles from the head of
the lake, a small place, the capital of the
district. To its inhabitants is due the
structure of the new lake road from Sale
to Marazzino and Pisogne, a most remark-
able work, hewn out of the solid rock, and
carried over precipices on solid masonry.
The produce of the country is mostly silk,
with some iron.
do'o (hotel, Posta), situated in a basin of
the Ogll\ and possessing some iron-works.
Carriage to Tirano in six hours : fare, 12
francs.
The Monte Tonale route here diverges
to the northeast, connecting with the rail-
way from Verona to Innsbruck. It was
VOL. 1 1. M 2
intended by the Austrian government as a
military road to supersede the higher one
over the Stelvio Pass.
Passing, over the admirable new road,
several poor villages, the highest point
of the Pusso d'Aprica is reached, and a
fine view of the valley Tellina is ob-
tained ; also of the Adda, to the bottom
of which the road descends through two
tunnels and crosses the Tresenda. From]
Tresenda to Tirano is six miles.
Tirano. See Route No. 65, Switzerland,
vol. iii., also "Passes into Italy," for rest
of the route.
ROUTE No. 211.
Verona to Modena, vii Mantua. Time,
2 h. 13 m. ; fare, first class, 11 fr. 85 c.;
second class, 8 fr. 45 c.
The line passes over a level, highly
cultivated country to Villafranca station,
where the armistice between France and
Austria was arranged after the battle of
Solferino, July 11, 1859. A short distance
to the north is the battle-field of Custozza,
where the Italians were defeated by the
Austrians in 1848 and in 1866.
Mantua. Hotels, Aqui'ud'OronnA Croce
Verde. Population, 30. 500. When governed
by her own dukes, during her prosperity,
Mantua contained 50,000 inhabitants, and
was an extensive manufacturing place.
It is a very ancient city, being founded,
it is supposed, previous to Rome. It is
chiefly celebrated for being the birthplace
of Virgil, or, rather, he was born at Andes,
now Pieio'e, two miles from Mantua, TO B.C.,
at which place a palace was built by one of
the Gonzagos, and from him received the
title of Virgiliano. Mantua became a re-
public after the conquest of Northern Italy
by Charlemagne, and until the 12th cen-
tury continued under that form of govern-
ment, at which time the Gonzago family
became managers of its affairs, and directed
them with supreme authority. They still
retained possession, after being raised to
805
MANTUA.
[ITALY.]
MANTDA.
the rank of dukes, until 1707, when it was
taken by the Austrians.
The situation of the city is very singular,
being built upon two portions of land, be-
tween which flows the River Mincio ; the
lowness of the ground makes the climate
very unhealthy. It is deficient in natural
beauty, but possesses many objects of in-
terest in its ancient buildings and works
of art. It is surrounded by lakes, the prin-
cipal of which are the Layo di Mezzo, Lugo
di Sopra, and Lago Inferiore. A portion
of these lakes are natural, and the other
portions are formed by damming up the
waters of the river. They are crossed by
six stone bridges, which connect the town
with the Borgo di Fortezza, a strong citadel
of Porto in the north, and also with the
Borgo di San Georgia, and is surrounded
by strong walls. Mantua, from being so
strongly fortified, is rendered one of the
bulwarks of Italy. The excursion from
Verona to Mantua is very charming, espe-
cially as the sun is declining, affording the
romantic traveler an opportunity of enjoy-
ing the beauties of an Italian sky and sun-
The central part of the city exhibits
signs of commercial activity, but the out-
skirts are exceedingly quiet, and the dilap-
idated state of many of the buildings bear
witness to the misfortunes which Mantua
has sustained. Its ancient splendor i.s still
visible, however, in many interesting rel-
ics which yet remain. One of the most
important buildings to be noticed is the
Castello di Corte, palace of the Gonzago
family, erected by Francesco Gonzago IV.,
capitan o of Mantua. It is a vast struc-
ture, with noble towers, which, however,
are greatly decayed and battered ; a por-
tion of the building is now used as a prison,
the other portion as public offices ; in these
may be seen some ancient frescoes which
are very rich.
Palazzo Imperials. This mansion, which
once boasted of so much grandeur, is now
entirely deserted ; yet on every wall may
be seen works of old masters, frescoes of
great beauty and effect. The rooms are
nearly 500 in number, and were formerly
fitted up in the most gorgeous style, with
Flemish and Mantuan tapestry, and ele-
gant furniture : it is floored with porcelain.
This palace was built for the third sover-
eign of Mantua. The genius of Giulio
806
Romano is most advantageously displayed
in the paintings which adorn the building.
The Stanz dell' Imperatrice formerly con-
tained Raphael's tapestry, now at Vienna.
The Sala dello Zodiaco, also finely paint-
ed by Giulio Roman-). Napoleon I. once
occupied this apartment.
There are few pictures of any importance
now remaining.
Churches. The Duomo is said to have
been designed by Giulio Romano, in imita-
tion of the church of Sta. Maria Maggiore
at Rome. It is richly decorated, but pos-
sesses few paintings. Church of St. Andrea
is far superior to the Cathedral, and, in fact,
is considered one of the most beautiful
churches in Italy. Mantegna is buried
here, and the bust of him is a fine piece of
workmanship. Many of the monuments
are interesting, having been erected to
persons of celebrity. Beneath the high-
altar is the shrine, containing the blood of
our Lord. The campanile is still standing.
The Mtiseo Antiquari-) contains many
Roman statues and some Greek ; also sev-
eral imperial busts, one of Virgil, and a
superior Caligula.
The best part of Mantua is in the neigh-
borhood of the Piazza Virgiliana, which is
a large square surrounded by trees and
open to the lake. The Ponte fli San Gior-
r/in. which crosses the entire lake, is 2500
feet in length : it was built in the 14th
century. Mantua has an academy of fine
arts, a public library containing 80,000
volumes, two orphan asylums, a lyceum, a
gymnasium, a work-house, botanic garden,
and man}' other institutions of science and
industry. Opposite to the church of Sta.
Barbara is the residence of Giulio Romano:
liis remains were interred in the church
just mentioned.
A short distance from Mantua is the Pa-
lazzo del T ; it is from the design of Giulio
Romano, who also acted as sculptor, and
bestowed upon the paintings some of his
most exquisite touches. The Hall of Gi-
ants is an immense study, so varied are the
figures therein represented.
Mantua to Parma ; diligence, in 6 h. 30
in. ; fare, 8 fr.
Mantua to Regtjio, diligence, in- 7 h. 30
m. Near Ifeggio is (ivstalln, in the market-
place of which is a monument to Ferdinand
I. Gonzagas.
Mantua to Cremona; railway recently
PER
CartfUa dtylt antichi Duchi
I'tilaxao delta, Ragione ivntune
Sitnitmria
Tmiro Sonamtfi
idftt del .Iriaxta
fbsta dfJle Letters
fbsta dfi CaoaUi
Tnittv Girnunale
16 Caaedraie
17 Corpus Domini
18 >>'. Pemi-nia>
IB S.Giotxuuii Battifta
20 S.Jfasva in I ado
21 j: /5r/o
22 S. jffaurelia HappucciniJ
23 j: Giroltiuio
Studio
fttlaxxo dt-tltt
Ciar-dino Jiotanitfi
^cadernifi Jriostea-
26 S. Francesco
27 J 1 ! Cristofbv (CertoM, i'amfw Mi
28 .V. Ketiedetto
29 S.^ndmt
Places
30 <^' Pollttjoli
31 </V Comniercio
32 Kwn Canals
33 t/l
35 Ml On,
\ 36
A R A
3V'*wv. -
v
uul-Hook
CARPI.
[ITALY.]
FEHRAICA.
finished. Time, 2 h. 35 m. ; fare, first class,
7 fr. 5 c.
Continuing the route to Modena, the
station /?o'o-.Ywt is passed, ten miles east
of which is the town of Mirundola, at cnn-
time the capital of a duchy of that name.
The duchy was sold to the Duke of Modena
liy I'rancisco Maria, last Duke of Miran-
dola and Concordia, in 1710.
Cai-pi contains 5500 inhabitants, with an
old castle, modern palace, and cathedral.
Seven miles west is the small town of
Corrrggio, formerly the capital of a princi-
pality belonging to the duchy of Modena,
and noted as the birthplace of the cele-
brated painter of that name, who was born
here in 1494. There are a few of his pict-
ures still preserved in the town.
Modena. See Route No. 215.
ROUTE No. 212.
Pa-Iua to Bologn-j, via Ferrara. Time,
2 h. 55 in. ; fare, first class, 14 fr. 45 c. ;
second class, 10 fr. 20 c.
Abano station, a small place ; birthplace
of the historian Livy; in the vicinity of
which is Bagni, containing warm springs.
Near the station Battiy/i t is the line
chateau of Cattujo. the property of the late
Duke of Modena (died 1875). It was erect-
ed by a noble Venetian named Obbizzo,
and contains a valuable collection of Etrus-
can vases, urns, etc., with many valuable
antique statues.
There are some warm baths in the vicin-
ity, the property of Count Wimpffen.
A short distance to the east of Battaglia
is Argua, dfl Monte, a favorite retreat of
Petrarch, who died here in 1374.
Four mrles from the station Este is the
ancient town of Ateste, containing the old
ancestral residence of the house of Este,
now in a ruinous condition.
This ancient and noble family took its
name from the town or citv of Este, near
1'adua, which was part of its possessions.
It reigned also over Ferrara, Modena, and
Reggio. From it were descended the dukes
of Brunswick and Hanover, and the present
reigning family of England.
From it al>o descended the dukes of
Tuscan}', Guy, and Lambert. Kings,
dukes, popes, cardinals, and archbishops
i have been members of this important fam-
ily, and they have been universally known
for the protection they have accorded to
learning and art. Tats>, Titian, Guarini,
all could speak of their patronage ; and
well might the Duke of Modena, who died
in November, 1875, make it a .-iue qua non
that his heir could only inherit (75 million
francs) by adding the name of Este to his
other names. There, of course, have been
black sheep in the flock, as in all families.
Byron's Azzo, Lucretia Borgia, etc.
Rovigo possesses a leaning tower, and is
an episcopal residence. East of Rovigo is
the town of Adria, situated on the Bianco
Canal. It is an ancient Etruscan town, and
gave its name to the Adriatic Sea. It was
formerly on the gulf, but the water has re-
ceded some sixteen miles from it.
Ferrara. This city is situated 3 miles
south of the Po, and contains 27,000 inhab-
itants. Principal hotels, Kuropa and Stel-
la <fOro. Ferrara is noticeable as being
the place where the notorious Lucretia Bor-
gia, wife of the Duke of Ferrara, breathed
her last, and where resided also the cele-
brated poets Tasso and Ariosto, and the
great painters Titian, Lorenzo Costa, and
BenvenutoTisio. One ofthe principal edi-
fices is the Palace, a very ancient build-
ing, mentioned by Byron in his " Purisina."
The custodian, among other dungeons,
points out the one at the base of the
"Lion's Tower," where Nicholas III.
(Azzo) caused to be executed (by behead-
ing) his wife, " Parisini," and his own
natural son, Hugo, her paramour.
The Sala de Giganti contains some fine
frescoes by Dosso Dossi.
There is also the Palazzo Villa, in which
are many celebrated paintings, open from
9 to 3 catalogue, ^ fr. ; the Studio Publico,
containing a library of 100,000 volumes
and many MSS. ; and the house of Ariosto.
The Cathedral ofS. Paolo dates from the
12th century. It has a fine facade, with
three scries of arches. The fine interior
ha* been restored, and contains some good
pictures, among which St. Peter, by Garo-
falo, and the martyrdom of St. Lawrence,
807
FEKKAKA.
[ITALY.]
NERVI.
by Guercino. Adjoining the Cathedral
stands the Campanile, erected about the
middle of the IGth century.
The other churches of Ferrara are S.
Francesco, erected in 1500. It is covered
with domes. The interior is surrounded
hy chapels, and contains some good pict-
ures and frescoes.
S. Domenico. The facade is decorated
in good taste with statues, and the inside
with frescoes.
S. Maria in Vado is surmounted by a
dome, and possesses some good pictures.
This is the oldest church in Ferrara.
S. Benedetto and S. Paolo have both
some paintings.
The house of Ariosto is No. 67 Via dell'
Ariosto. His monument, which formerly
stood in the church of S. Benedetto, is now
in the Library.
The Hospital of St. Anna contains the
dungeon where Tasso was confined for
seven years by Alphonso II., for having
conceived a passion for that monarch's sis-
ter, the Princess Leonora. Among the
names written on the walls is that of
Byron.
The line from Ferrara to Bologna trav-
erses flat, well-cultivated land, when the
station San Giorgio is reached, five miles
from which stands the town of Cento, the
birthplace of Guercino. The town contains
many specimens of his talent, and his
house is shown to visitors.
Bologna. See Route No. 215.
treble the expense, may be found by in-
quiring of your hotel proprietor.
A steamer leaves Genoa Tuesday, Thurs-
day, and Sunday, at 8 P.M. ; and returns
Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, at 9 A.M.;
fare, 27 fr. 50 c.
Pegli. Grand Hotel Pfgli.
For notice of this and other towns on
this route, see Index, "Passes into Italy."
The principal town on the route San
Remo has lately been rising high in pub-
lic estimation, and probably at some future
day will vie with Nice.
Hotel de Londres. The Circolo Interna-
zionale possesses reading-rooms, ball and
concert rooms. It has good physicians.
Carriages, by the course, one horse, 80 c. ;
two horses, 1 fr. 40 c. ; per hour, one horse,
1 fr. 50 c. ; two horses, 2 fr. 50 c.
The surroundings of San Remo are
charming, and the walks and excursions
everything that can be desired.
Bordighera. Hotel Bordighera, one of
the best houses on the Riviere, admirably
managed by Mr. Angst (Swiss). The cli-
mate of Bordighera is lovely mild, but
more bracing than Mentone or San Remo.
It is situated on a hill projecting into the
sea and surrounded by palm-trees. It is a
favorite resort for invalids, many of whom
spend the whole winter there.
Vintimiglia is the frontier French town
where the baggage is examined.
For description of the remaining towns,
see Route No. 124, France,
ROUTE No. 213.
Genoa to Nice, via the Riviera. Time,
6 h. 43 m. ; fare, first class, 21 fr. 55 c. ;
second class, 15 fr. 25 c. Since the rail-
way has been finished over the beautiful
Riviere de Ponente, once so famous in the
history of posting, few travel by carriage ;
some will probably still prefer the road
along the Corniclie. The portion nearest
Nice is one of the most delightful drives
in France or Italy. Carriages, for those
who prefer three or four days' time, with
808
ROUTE No. 214.
Genoa to Fl>rence, via Spezia and Pisa.
Time, 6 h. 43 m. ; fare, first class, 26 fr.
80 c. ; second class, 19 fr. 40 c.
Passing several unimportant stations,
and through numerous tunnels, the town
of Nervi is reached a delightful winter
residence, in the midst of lemon and or-
ange groves. Grand Hotel and Pension
Anglaise, a fine winter pension residence,
managed by Mr. Engel, also proprietor of
the Hotel de la Ville at Genoa.
CHIAVARI.
[ITALY.]
PISA.
Chiaoari (hotel, Ftnice), situated in a
charming position on the shore of the
Mediterranean; delightful climate. It pos-
sesses numerous silk manufactories.
Spezii, the Portus Lunte of the Komans, '
the site of which may be seen by the ruins
of an ancient amphitheatre and circus. |
It contains 11,200 inhabitants. The mod-
ern t-iu-n. which is much frequented for
si-a-bathing, is r-ituated on a beautiful bay
with a magnilicent harbor, the frequent;
resort of Italian and other vessels of war. |
Several United States vessels of war usu-
ally harbor here several months each win-
ter. Unless some important movement is
going on, thev vary the winter between
this place and Nice (Villafranca). Prin-
cipal hotels, Critce di Malta and I'ille de
Mi'-m. The island of Palmaria, opposite
the town, is used as a penal establishment
for brigands. The climate here is mild
and balmy, and excursions are numerous.
An excursion should be made by boat or
carriage (boat with two rowers, 10 fr. ;
carriage and horses, 10 fr.) to Porto Venere,
on the west side of the bay. From the
ruins of the ancient church of S. Pietro,
built on the site of an ancient temple of
Venus, a most glorious view may be had,
if there about sunset.
The next important station is Sarzana,
the birthplace of Pope Nicholas V., and
near which (Lunigiana) the Bonap:irte fam-
ily resided before their settlement in Cor-
sica. From Ave za, the next town, a
branch railway leads to the celebrated
Carrara marble quarries, which will well
repay a visit, occupying two hours. Time,
12 minutes. Guides demand 5 francs for
their services, and can not well be dispensed
with. About 6500 quarrymen are at work
at the present time (1876). The masses of
marble are hauled out by oxen after they
have been blasted. The mines of M. Sngro
and .\fonte Crestola yield the nmrmo st/itu-
ario (that used for statues), which is the
best kind. The quarrymen quit work at 3
P.M.. consequently the mines ought to be
visited before that hour. A horn is blown
when a blast is about to occur.
Some of the studios in the town should
be visited. Franci and Lnzzerini have gen-
erally some fine subjects finished.
The Academia delle Belle Arti possesses
some good specimens of Carrara artists.
The Piazza, contains a fine monument of
the Grand-Duchess Maria Beatrice, heroic
size, erected in 1861.
Massa (hotel, /our Nations'), contain-
ing 10,500 inhabitants, was formerly the
capital of Massa-Carrara. It contains a
palace which was formerly the residence
of the Princess Baccocchi, a sister of Na-
poleon I.
Pieira Santa is an ancient fortified town,
delightfully situated. It was besieged and
captured in 1842 by Lorenzo de' Medici.
It contains a campanile and two or three
churches.
There is a carriage-road from here to the
baths and town of Lucca.
Viareggio, a small sea-bathing village,
is passed, and
Pisa is reached. Every traveler should
stop here. Hotel Victoria el de FArno, be-
tween the station and the monuments.
The ancient and much decayed city of
Pisa contains 50,331 inhabitants (1876). It
is principally situated on the north bank of
the Arno, five miles from its mouth. It
was "formerly the capital of one of Italy's
most celebrated republics ; in the 13th cen-
tury it had a population of 150,000. It was
then very prosperous, and celebrated for
the strength of its fortifications, and for its
profusion of magnificent marble edifices.
It still boasts of some fine marble build-
ings, and one of the noblest bridges in Eu-
rope. In the time of Strabo, Pisa became
a Roman colony, and it was an important
naval station. It, however, attained its
great distinction in the 10th century, when
it took the lead among the commercial re-
publics of Italy. The climate is mild dur-
ing the winter. It was not for a long time
considered healthy, owing to the impurity
of the water of the Arno ; but after the
watercourse was formed from the Valle di
Asciano, this inconvenience seemed greatly
relieved. The lower classes prefer begging
to working, and, as in many other cities of
Itily, are very annoying.
In a large square in the northern part
of the city are the four principal attractions
of Pisa : the Cathedral, Baptistery, Lean-
MB
PISA.
[ITALY.]
PISA.
ing Tower, and Campo Santo ; consequent-
ly, two or three hours will afford the trav-
eler sufficient time to visit these celebrated
places.
The Cathedral is an interesting specimen
of the style of architecture which prevail-
ed in the llth century. It is built in the
form of a Latin cross, and is 300 feet long,
107 feet wide, and its front is 1'20 feet in
height ; 69 columns of Corinthian archi-
tecture divide the aisles; the cupola is
supported by four piers rising from the
centre of the building. The tine appear-
ance of the exterior is greatly increased by
the white marble platform, with steps, by
which it is surrounded. The middle of the
three magnificent bronze doors, executed
by Giovanni di Bologna, represents the
history of the Virgin from the time of her
birth. The drum of the cupola is decorated
on the outside with an immense number
of columns, connected by arches, and the
general appearance is that of a crown. At
the time the building suffered from fire,
the roof of the nave fell, and injured many
objects of interest contained in the church.
The only portion of the pulpit, which was
the masterpiece of Giovanni di Pisa, that
was saved, were the statues that now dec-
orate the present one. The twelve altars
were designed by Michael Angelo.
The Chapel of SS. Sacramento. This
chapel contains an altar, cased in chased
work of silver, the gift of Cosimo III. ;
the silver is supposed to have cost 3G,000
crowns.
The High- Altar of the Cathedral is of
immense size, and elaborately ornamented.
The paintings possess much merit. The
Madonna dell' Orgagna is a precious one,
and is kept locked ; it can be seen only I >y
special permission. It is of Greek origin,
and very old. Here, also, are some of the
best works of Andrea del Sarto, the prin-
cipal of which is his St. Agnes, which
hangs between the nave and cupola. No-
tice also his last painting, over the altar
of the Madonna dclle Grazie, in the south-
ern transept. He died before it was com-
pleted, and Sagliana finished it. Observe
on either side of the deans' stalls the fig-
ures of the four saints, St. Peter, St. John,
St. Catharine, and St. Margaret. One of
the best p-iintings licre is that of Cristofnro
Allori, of the Virgin in glory surrounded
by saints and angels. Passignano's Tri-
810
i umph of the Martyrs is also very fine.
Notice above the high-altar Giovanni di
Bologna's figure of the Saviour on the cross,
which is very fine. The picture behind
the altar of Abraham and Isaac is also
quite celebrated.
There are but few tombs now remaining
in the Duomo, most of them having been
removed to the Campo Santo. In the urn
of serpentine, near the altar, in the rich
chapel of St. Kanieri, are inclosed the bones
I of St. Kanieri, the protector of Pisa. At
the end of the nave is suspended the large
bronze lamp, of superior workmanship, the
swinging of which first suggested to Gali-
leo the theory of the pendulum ; he was
then but eighteen years old. He was also
the inventor of the telescope. This emi-
nent discoverer was born at Florence in
] 564. In the early part of the 17th century
he undertook at Kome to demonstrate the
(ruth of the present solar system, discover-
ed by Copernicus, but he was compelled
| by the Jesuits to abjure the facts that th
sun stood still, and that the earth revolved
round the sun. They declared the propo-
sitions heretical, and contrary to the ex-
press word of God, and they committed his
writings to the flames. After his release
from prison, and his abjuration, it is said
that, impelled by his genius, he stamped
his feet upon the earth, and exclaimed,
"Ma pur si ir.uove" ("But it does turn,
after all").
It would be well, while visiting the Ca-
thedral, to try and shake off the custodian
for a few moment.'- pay him a paul in ad-
vance ; he hanys on to you with fearful te-
nacity, and his description of the pictures
is worse than that of the crown jewels in
the Tower of London was a few years ago.
The Baptistery, situated opposite the Ca-
thedral, is an immense building, 150 feet
in diameter, and 1GO in height. The ex-
terior is principally of marble, and is sur-
mounted by a cupola and cone, upon which
is placed the figure of St. John the Baptist.
The whole interior of this edifice is very
elaborately ornamented. The principal
feature, however, is the pulpit, of exqui-
site workmanship, designed by Nicolo Pi-
sano. During Holy Week officers are
provided to preserve it from injury.
The Campanile, or leaning Toicer, is very
extraordinary, not from its great beauty,
but by its inclination from the perpendic-
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PISA.
[ITALY.]
PISA.
ular. It is 190 feet in height, consisting
of eight stories, with outside galleries pro-
jecting about seven feet. The effect to a
spectator looking down from the top is
awfully grand and terrific. The topmost
story, overhanging the base on one side
about fifteen feet, is perfectly secure, the
centre of gravity being ten feet within the
base. The ascent is made by 295 steps,
and the view from the top is extensive
and beautiful. The bells, which are im-
mensely heavy, are very harmonious. The
proportions of the tower are very light and
elastic, and it has been in this leaning po-
sit inn for over six centuries.
The Ccmpo Santo. This cemetery, from
which almost every other place of inter-
ment in Ital}' derives its name, is the most
interesting of the four Pisan curiosities.
It is said the difference between it now and
formerly is, that li the dead were compelled
to pay a fee on entering it ; but, as they
never left it, of course nothing more could
be demanded of them ; now, the living en-
ter free, but are compelled to pa}- well be-
fore they are allowed to leave it." This
' Museum of Tombs" contains many very
interesting specimens of sepulchral mon-
uments, statues, and very old paintings.
Among the most important sarcophagi is
that containing the body of the Countess
Beatrice, mother of the Countess Mathilde.
Monuments of Antonio di San I'ietro. Hisli-
op Ricci, Philip Desco,Vacca Berlinghieri,
etc., are all interesting. The walls are
covered with frescoes representing Script-
ure subjects by many of the old masters.
One of these frescoes illustrates the process
of decomposing bodies by means of acids
at the time when this was used for a burial-
place. The earth which surrounds this ed-
ifice was brought from Jerusalem in fifty
galleys as long ago as l'22> i . Many of the j
old dilapidated tombs have ancient and in-
teresting epitaphs. Campo Santo is open
daily; knock at the door on the left for
the custodian, who expects 1 franc on
leaving.
The church of Sta. Culerina, built in
Gothic style, was formerly attached to the
Dominican monastery ; many of the orna-
ments are very curious, especially the bor-
der of heads around the windows. In this
church is the monument of Simone Salta-
relli, archbishop of Pisa, who died in 1342.
In one of the chapels are the two interest-
! ing statues, by Nino Pisano, of Faith and
Charity.
The church of Santa Maria delta. Spina is
situated on the south bank of the Arno,
and is built of white marble. It is a per-
| feet specimen of architectural beauty. It
was built, during Pisa's prosperous times,
for the sailors, who, before taking their de-
parture for sea, implored herein the pro-
tection of the Virgin. Giovanni Pisano's
; talent contributed greatly in adorning this
building.
There are many other churches besides
those which we have mentioned contain-
ing relics and works of art.
The University of Pist was formerly
among the most celebrated in Italy ; it is
still at the head of educational establish-
ments in Tuscany. It contained at an
earlier period between 600 and 700 students,
but the number is now reduced about half.
Many illustrious names were found among
the professors, including those of Galileo,
Redi, Castelli, Thomas Dempster, Malpi-
ghi, Gronovius, etc. The Eotanicul Garden
attached to the University is a delightful
spot, and strangers may enjoy examining
the plants, some of which are very rare,
such as palm-trees and magnolias 70 feet
high. Near this garden is the Mut>.o di
Storia Xaturale, established by Ferdinand
I. in 15%. It has been greatly enlarged
during the past few years, and the collec-
tion now is one of the most complete in It-
aly. Accademia delle Bel'e Arti was found-
ed by Napoleon in 1812. The paintings
are mostly of the Pisan and early Floren-
tine schools.
Pisa has some fine palaces and public
buildings. The Palazzo Lanfranchi, on the
Arno. is from the design of Michael An^e-
lo. It was for a long time the residence of
Lord Byron ; he here lived openly with his
mistress, the Countess of Guiccioli, daugh-
ter of Count Gamba, after the count, her
husband, had obtained a divorce from the
pope. The countess was a most 1 e.iutiful
woman, '!'> years of age. The exqnUitc
sonnet prefixed to the Prophecy of l>ant
was dedicated to her. With more th;;ii
the poet's usual constancy, he remained
faithful to her for three years at which
time he died. The countess was a native
of l'i-a. In this phee he wrote "The
Deformed Transformed," the tragedy of
" Werner," and a portion of " Don Juan.''
811
PISA.
[ITALY.]
PlACEXZA.
In the Piazza dei Cavalieri, where the
modern clock-tower now stands, was for-
merly the location of the Torre della Fame,
so celebrated by Dante.
At the time of the festival of San Ranieri,
which is celebrated on the 16th and 17th
of June every third year, the banks of the
river and the principal streets are illumi-
nated with thousands of lamps. It attracts
large crowds, and is really a most interest-
ing and remarkable sight.
The Baths of Pisa, situated about three
miles from the city, are quite celebrated
for the medicinal qualities of their waters.
They are much frequented, and are sup-
posed to be the same alluded to by Strabo
and Pliny.
On the old post-road to Leghorn stands
the curious old church of San Pietro in
Grado, erected previous to the year 1000.
It is said that St. Peter erected a church on
this spot, from which circumstance, and in
memory of this saint, the present edifice
owes its name.
About six miles east of Pisa is the rich-
ly decorated building called the Certosa, in
the Valle di Calci. On the peak of La
Verucca, above the Certosa, are the ruins
of an ancient castle, from which a beauti-
ful view may be obtained, which will fully
repay those who ascend to the summit.
The Cascine, or large farms formerly be-
longing to the grand-duke, are three miles
from Pisa ; here are kept over 1500 cows
and 200 camels.
Near Pisa is the small watering-place of
Jl Gombo, commanding beautiful views.
It was here that the poet Shelley was
drowned (July 7, 1822) ; Lord Byron had
his remains burned, and his heart deposited
in the Protestant burying-ground at Rome.
from Pisa to Lucca. Time, 40 minutes ;
fare, first class, 2 fr.
From Pisa to Florence, via L,ucca and
Pistoia. Time, 4 h. 25 m. ; fare, first class,
9 fr. 70 c. ; second class, 7 fr. 85 c.
From Pisa 'to Florence, via Empoli (di-
rect). Time, 2 h. 13 m. ; fare, first class.
8 fr. 60 c. ; second class, 5 fr. 90 c.
From Pisa to Leghorn. Time, 30 min-
utes; fare, 95 c.
From Pisa to R<me. Time, 12 h. 21 m. ;
fare, first class, 38 fr. 70 c. ; second class,
26 fr. 70 c.
Empoli. See Route No. 122.
Florence. See Index.
812
ROUTE No. 215.
Milan to Florence, via Piucenza, Parma,
Modena, Bol gna, and Pistoia. Time, 9 h.
17 m. ; fare, first class, 37 fr. 60 c. ; second
class, 26 fr. 55 c.
The first place of interest in this most
important route is the station Me'egnano,
where Francis I. of France completely
slaughtered the Swiss allies in his cam-
paign against Milan in 1515, and also where
the French defeated the Austrians, June 7,
1859.
Lodi, a town of 18,500 inhabitants, made
memorable in history by the battle of Lodi,
where Napoleon stormed the bridge of
Lodi, which crossed the Adda, and entered
the town, May 10th, 1796. The town was
built by the Emperor Frederick in 1158,
and fortified in 1655. In 1454 a treaty was
concluded here which united all the Italian
states in one confederation.
The town is noted for its Parmesan and
Stracchino cheese.
Piacenza (French, P.'aisance") (hotels, St.
Mnrco and Croce Binned) contains 35,000
inhabitants. Nothing special to see.
Piacenza was founded by the Romans
200 years before Christ. It was complete-
ly sacked by the Carthaginians during the
second Punic War, and, after numerous
other sieges and conflicts, it finally passed
during the Middle Ages to the house of
Farnese. Sforza at one time reduced its
citizens to slavery, and sold 10,000 of them
into bondage.
The Piazza dei Cavalli is the principal
place in the town : it is finely paved with
granite. On one side is situated the Pa-
lazza del Comune, in front of which notice
the equestrian statues of the Dukes Alex-
ander and Ranuccio Farnese, executed by
Mocchi, a pupil of John of Bologna. Alex-
ander was the same duke who commanded
the armies of Philip II. in the Low Coun-
tries, and took Antwerp in 1585.
The Duomo, which is situated at the ex-
BOBGO SAX Doxixo.
[ITALY.]
PARMA.
tremity of the Contrada Drilla, is the prin-
cipal church of Piacenza. It contains
some fine frescoes l>y Caraeci. Another
church is the Santa Mnria dl C'ampagna, by
Bramante. Although in a very damaged
state, the beautiful frescoes of Pordenone
are still conspicuous.
The church of San Sisto is the richest in
the town: it contains several fine paint-
ings. It was for this church that Raphael
painted his celebrated Madonna San Sisto,
now the principal gem in the gallery at
Dresden. It was sold in 1753 to the King
of Poland for $40,000. Notice the monu-
ment to Margaret of Austria, daughter of
Charles V., wife of Octavius Farnese, Duke
of Parma.
The railway after leaving Piacenza fol-
lows the old Roman road, via Emilia,
which connected the important cities of
Parma, Bologna, and Rimini on the Adri-
atic Sea, and arrives at the village of
Borgo San Dotiino. Hotel, Croce Bianco.
'I lie ancient name of the town -was Fidfntia
Julia, but since the martyrdom of St. Do-
minicus it has borne his name. The cathe-
dral was dedicated to that saint, and is one
of the finest in Italy.
The line now crosses the Tnroon abridge
of 20 arches, erected in 1816 by the Duch-
ess Maria Louisa, empress of the French.
Parma is finely situated on the River
Parma, a branch of the Po ; it contains
47,000 inhabitants. Principal hotel, Al-
bergo delta Posta. This is one of the most
ancient cities of Italy. It was conquered
by the Romans 123 years before the Chris-
tian era, who made a colony of it under
the name of Colonia Julia Augusta Parma.
It was the residence of the Guelphs during
the Middle Ages ; was besieged by Em-
peror Frederick II. in 1245. It was for a
long time the scene of violent intestine
wars between the Visconti, the Delia Scala,
and the Terzi. From 1545 to 1731 it was
the residence of the princes of the house of
Farnese, at which time it became united to
Spain, and was the capital of the duchy of
Parma. From 1815 to 1847 it was ruled by
Maria Louisa, empress of France, and wife
of Napoleon I. Since 1859 Parma has
ceased to be an independent duchy ; that
and the duchy of Modena, as well as Tus-
cany, have been annexed to the kingdom
of United Italy.
The principal object of interest is the
Ducal Palace, which contains the Academy
of Fine Art.*, Picture-gallery. Library, Mu-
seum, Archives, and Farnese theatre : open
daily from 9 to 4, and on fete-days from 10
to 2. The palace contains some fine pict-
ures by David the Toilette, and a splen- '
did portrait of Maria Louisa. The Pict-
ure-gallery contains four of Correggio's
masterpieces. The principal is his Ma-
donna with the infant Saviour, St. Made-
leine, and St. Jerome ; the last is known in
Italy under the name of II Gioi-no, " The
Day," in contrast to his masterpiece in the
gallery at Dresden, which is " The Night."
The entire chamber is devoted to the exhi-
bition of this work, which is mostly called
La Madonna di S. Girolum-). His others
are the Madonna della Scodella, or the
Flight into Egypt, Descent from the Cross,
Bearing the Cro.<s, and his Madonna della
Scala, a fresco removed entire from the
church of St. Michael : this last is in the
library. The gallery contains many other
valuable paintings by Caraeci, F. Francia,
and Vandyke. In the Sculpture-gallery
there are several valuable antiques found
in the ruins of Velleia. Among the mod-
ern works notice a bust of Maria Louisa by
Canova. The Library of the Academy is
one of the finest in Europe : it contains
140,00!) volumes, 100,000 engravings, and
12,000 pieces of music. It also contains
some most valuable relics, such as a manu-
script of Petrarch, which belonged to Fran-
cis I. ; a Hebrew Psalm-book, with notes
by Martin Luther ; a copy of the Koran,
found in 1683 by the Emperor Leopold I. in
the tomb of the Grand Vizier Kara Mus-
tapha after the siege of Vienna ; a letter
of Dante, etc., etc.
The f'arnese Theatre is also a most in-
teresting object attached to the palace : it
is now in ruins as far as the boxes and
decorations go, having been built nearly
250 years ago. It was capable of holding
8000 people. It was the scene of the most
superb spectacles produced in Itaty for
over 100 years. It was erected by Ranuce
Farnese I. in 1618, and took ten years to
build. It is over 1000 feet long "and 100
wide : the Corinthian columns which dec-
orate the proscenium IHJXCS are 65 feet
high. The architect of this superb struc-
ture was Aleotti. Fee, 1 franc.
In the Museum there are now 20,000
medals, found in the ruins of Velleia.
813
PARMA.
[ITALY.]
MODENA.
The Cathedral, or Duomo, is the princi-
pal religious edifice of Parma; it is very
ancient, having been commenced in the be-
ginning of the 12th century. It is princi-
pally visited by strangers on account of the
frescoes of the cupola, which were executed
l>y Correggio, and were the last works of
that celebrated artist, done between the
years 1522 and 1530. Notice in the chapel
of St. Agatha the monument erected to the
memory of Petrarch, who was archdeacon
of this church. The third chapel on the
right contains a fine bas-relief represent-
ing a Descent from the Cross. The Ca-
thedral should be visited as near noon as
possible, to obtain all the advantages of
light.
The church of S. Giovanni Evunyelista is
a small church, but in remarkable fine
taste. The cupola was painted by Cor-
reggio, as well as numerous other frescoes
therein. Attached to the chapel is a con-
vent belonging to the Benedictine order.
It was from this church that the celebrated
fresco, the "Coronation of the Virgin,"
by Correggio, which is in the library, was
taken. The convent has been the refuge
of numerous illustrious persons, among oth-
ers Charles Emmanuel of Sardinia, the popes
Pius VI. and VII. Notice in the church,
over a small door in the left transept, a
painting of St. John by Correggio.
The Madonna della 'steccatla, built in the
16th century, after the model of St. Peter's
at Rome, is finely frescoed by Parmeggi-
anino and Anselmi. Notice Moses break-
ing the Tables of the Law and the Adam
and Eve, also the monuments of 1,'ossi and
Sforca. In the crypt the tomb of Alexan-
der Farnese may be seen.
Attached to the church of San Lodovico,
a building of little merit, formerly the Con-
vent of St. Paul, is the Camera di San Paolo,
which was formerly the parlor of the ab-
bess. It was decorated in beautiful fres-
coes by Correggio, by order of the abbess,
in 1519, for which my lad}' 1ms received no
small censure by different writers, one of
whom says that these nude mythological
figures pertain more to the house of a for-
mer citizen of Herculaneum or Pompeii
than to the parlor of an abbess. The ceil-
ing is decorated with emblems of the chase,
cupids, the Graces, Fortune, Adonis, Di-
ana, etc. The room should be visited as
near noon as possible : remain in it some
814
little while to allow your eyes time to be-
come accustomed to the gloom.
Visit the Palazzn del Giordano, or Pal-
ace of the Garden, founded by Octavius Far-
nese. At the foot of the terrace is the plain
where De Coigny gained a victory over the
Austrians in 1733.
The principal promenade is the Stra-
done, a large boulevard between the cita-
del and the botanical garden, which, dur-
ing fine weather, is the rendezvous of prom-
enaders and elegant equipages.
Carriages to and from the station, 1
fr. ; two horses, 1 fr. 60 c.
From Parma to Reggio. Time, 35 min-
utes. (Don't depend too much on official
railway guides in regard to the starting of
trains from this point. The time is fre-
quently changed.)
Reggio is an ancient well-built town con-
taining 21,750 inhabitants. Hotel, Posta.
The streets are mostly like those of Padua
and Bologna wide, with arcades. There
is nothing of importance to be seen ; the
usual number of churches and monuments,
but no galleries.
The Cathedral dates from the loth cen-
tury. Its fa9ade, like that of most church-
es in Italy, is only partially finished. At
the entrance are colossal statues of Adam
and Eve, by Cleme/iti, a pupil of Michael
Angelo. The interior contains some mon-
uments and statues by the same master.
The Madonna della Ghiara, erected in
the 15th century. Its nave is decorated
with frescoes by Luca Ferrari, a pupil of
Guido. The altar-piece is by Guercino,
back of which are frescoes by Carlo Ca-
liari.
The Madonna delle Concezione is a fine
modern church.
The Teatro is also modern and very fine.
The Muse'im contains a good collection
of natural history.
General Cialdini was a native of Reggio.
His bust stands in front of the Municipio.
Mmli-na. former capital of the duchy of
Modena, but at present, with the other
duchies, embodied in the kingdom nf Italy.
Principal hotel, Albergo Reale. The town
is situated in a fertile plain between the
Panaro and Secchia, and contains 34,200
inhabitants (1876). Unless one has con-
siderable time to spare, the sights of Mode-
na will hardly compensate his stopping
here. The principal building is the Ducal-
BOLOGNA.
[ITALY.]
BOLOGNA.
I'liltcc. which is quite extensive, and out |
of proportion to the former size of the state.
The apartments are large and magnificent,
and contain a Picture-gallery, open daily
from U to 3; entrance at the back of the
palace ; catalogues. :> francs. Tl>e Library
contains '.'O.iMn) volumes and numerous
ITC -ions MSS., among others one of Dante,
with his miniature. The Cathedral dates
back to the llth century. The architect
was VHlafrunca. It was commenced under
[ the direction of the ( 'ountess Matbilde, and
contains numerous paintings.
The Cumpimi'e, or Ghirlandina, was
erected in the 13th century: it is one of
the highest in Northern Italy, measuring
345 feet. It received its name on account
of the garland of (lowers in bronze on the
MI m m it of the weathercock. It is slightly
inclined from the perpendicular, leaning
toward the choir of the cathedral. The
former ducal garden forms the principal
promenade for the citizens.
S. Pielro is a large church at the south-
ern end of the town. In one of the chapels
to the right is a dead Christ in terra-cotta,
by Begnrelli, and a Madonna and Child in
the transept by the same artist.
S.Agnslino and S. Francesco are the other
principal churches.
The Lapidary Museum contains numer-
ous Egyptian and other relics, consisting
of sarcophagi, ancient inscriptions, etc.
The Public Gardens were formerly the
gardens of the palace.
The town of I'ir/nola is situated 12 miles
southeast of Modena. It commands a
splendid prospect, and was the birthplace
of the celebrated M'inttori.
Southwest of Modena stands the town of
Stissw.ilo, with a line ducal villa and hand-
some gardens.
Bologna, one of the most ancient and
important cities of Italy, is finely situ-
ated at the foot of the Apennines, between
the rivers Reno, Aposa, and Savena. Pop-
ulation, 110,000. Principal hotel, Grand
Until JBrttn, a very good establishment.
The city was founded by the Ktruscans,
and was conquered by the Romans 190 j
years before Christ; it was declared a free
city by Charlemagne, and became rich
and powerful by its commerce ; was the
scene of the most sanguinary intestine
quarrels between the Guelphs and Ghib-v
Hnes. In conjunction with the Pope, it
took the part of the Guelphs against the
Emperor Frederick II., took his son, King
Enzio, prisoner at the bloody battle of Fos-
sata, and kept him in custody until his
death twenty-two years after. Is was the
scene of the interview between Pope Leo
X. and Francis II. of France in 1515, and
between Clement VII. and Charles V. hi
1530 and l. r >32. In 1547 the celebrated
Council of Trent assembled here. In 179G
it was incorporated by France in the Cis-
alpine republic, and in 1815 was attached
to the States of the Church, and in 1859 to
the kingdom of Italy.
Bologna has borne a most conspicuous
part in the world of arts and letters. Its
school of painters numbers such artists
as the two Caraccis, Domenichino, whom
I'nu-sin regarded as the greatest painter
after Raphael ; Guido Rene, one of the most
brilliant painters of Italy : Guercina, Al-
bana, and Lanfranca ; with such later stars
as Pasinelli, who sought to unite the beau-
tiful designs of Raphael with the brilliant
coloring of Paul Veronese, and Carlo Cig-
nani, who sought to associate the grace of
Corri'ggio with the science of Annihale
Caracci. In 1119 Bologna founded her
-/fy, the most ancient and celebra-
ted in the world. As early as 121G its pu-
pils amounted to 10,000. Irnerius, who
here taught jurisprudence, was renowned
throughout the world. Medicine, theolo-
gy, and philosophy were also taught. Some
of the most famous doctors were females.
Among those were Madame Manzolina,
Laura Bassi. Clotilde Tambroni (a Greek),
and Novell i d' Andrea : this last was so
beautiful that she was obliged to hide her-
self behind a curtain during her lectures,
that she might not distract the attention
of her pupils by her beauty. It was at
Bologna that the anatomy of the human
figure was first taught, and here, in 178!),
galvanism was first discovered by Joseph
Galvani.
Archiginnasio Antico was formerly the
old University ; it is now used as tl
Knteca Comunnle: open daily from 10 to 4.
The works of art and antiquities were re-
moved in 1832 to the Museo Civico, close by.
The outside view of Bologna is very
fine; its numerous churches l:!() in num-
ber), convents (2(0, arid p.u.iee-. its pecul-
iar towers and high arcades, give it a very
singular and interesting appearance.
815
BOLOGNA.
[ITALY.]
BOLOGNA.
The principal building is the Church of
St. Petronius, which is the finest in the citj'.
It was commenced in 1390, and is built in
the Tuscan-Gothic style. Had it been
built according to the original plans of Vi-
cenzi it would have been the longest in the
world, viz., 644 feet (see the plans and mod-
els in the sacristy). As it now is, it is only
380 feet long and 156 wide. It is sur-
rounded by chapels, which are the most
remarkable part of the building ; most of
them were magnificently frescoed, but are
now much faded. Notice in one of the
chapels on the left as you enter (Bacciochi)
the monuments of Elisa Bonaparte, her
husband, and four children : they are the
work of the two Franzoni, and are of the
purest white marble. The altar-piece is
by Costa a Madonna on the Throne sur-
rounded by saints. Notice some very cu-
rious frescoes in the second chapel on the
light. On the floor of the church may be
seen the meridional line traced by the as-
tronomer Cassini in 1653. On the 24th
day of February, 1530, Pope Clement VII.
crowned the Emperor Charles V. under the
canopy of the choir. This was the last
German emperor crowned in Italy. No-
tice, while examining the models of the
church, the bas-reliefs by Proporzia di Ros-
si. This beautiful and most remarkable
young woman, who was equally proficient
as an engraver, sculptor, musician, and
painter, was celebrated for her attachment
to a voung man named Malvasia, who for
a long time was indifferent to her love (al-
though in the end he did succumb). In
her representation of Joseph and Potiphar's
wife, she carved her own portrait to repre-
sent the latter and her lover that of Jo-
seph.
The second chapel on the left as you en-
ter contains a golden safe let into the wall
over the altar : it contains the head of St.
Petronius, the patron saint of the city.
Next in importance to St. Petronius is
the Church of St. Dominico, founded by that
saint in the 12th century. St. Dominico
was l.orn in Castile, Spain, in 1170, and lie-
came the founder of the celebrated order
of monks called the Dominicans : he lived
for a long time in the convent attached to
this church. In the chapel of St. Domin-
ico is his tomb, surmounted with a cupola,
and decorated with bas-reliefs, represent-
ing scenes in the life of that saint, by Pia-
816
1 sano. A small kneeling angel of white
marble, to the left of the altar, is by Mi-
chael Angelo. This tomb is considered
one of the finest works of the 13th century.
Opposite to this is the Chapel ofth> R -
sary, which is ornamented with frescoes
by Guido and Caracci. Notice on the left
. St. Dominico burning the Books of the
Heretics. In this chapel is the tomb of
Guido Reni. The ceiling of the dome over
the high - altar was frescoed by Michael
Angelo. Notice in the left transept the
preserved body of Serophini Coppone, who
] died 400 years ago : without the swath-
ing of the Egyptian mummies, it has been
kept in a much better state of preserva-
tion.
San Giacomo Maggiore, situated in the
street San Donate, near the tower of Asi-
nellc. was founded in 1267, and restored in
1862. The pictures contained in the dif-
ferent chapels are very fine. The Madon-
na in the chapel of the Bentivola family is
considered the masterpiece of Francesco
Fr.aicia.
The Cathedral Church of St. Pietro, com-
menced in 1605, contains but a single nave.
The picture of the Annunciation, over the
high - altar, is the last work of Louis Ca-
racci.
Accademia delle Belle Arti, containing
one of the finest picture-galleries in Italy,
is situated in the northeastern part of
the city. Open daily from 9 to 3; vis-
itors ring the bell. Catalogue, 1 francs.
In addition to the gallery of paintings, it
contains the Arsenal, where quantities of
arms captured from different nations are
stored. The gallery can be visited every
day. It comprises eight saloons. The
principal gems in this collection are : Ra-
phael's St. Cecilia in Ecstasies, one of his
masterpieces. It was removed to Paris by
Napoleon 1.. but returned in 1815. The
Death of St. Peter, by Domenichino. Sam-
son destroying the I'hi'istines, by Guido. The
Madonna della Piet, by the same artist.
The Baptism of Christ, by Albano: it was
from this picture that Domenichino took
his ideas for his masterpiece at Rome. The
Martyrdom of St. Agnes, by Domenichino,
for a long time the principal object of at-
traction in the gallery of the Louvre at
Paris. The Massacre of the Innocents, by
Guido. The .)fadonna, with St. Anyustine
and other faints, by Francia. The Appari-
B O L
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book
BOLOGNA.
[ITALY.]
BOLOGNA.
tion of the Sariour to Mary Magdalen un-
der tlie figure of a gardener, by Calvert.
In the Rtz-de-Cliaussie may be seen the
pictures of the living artists of Bologna.
The studio of Baruzzi, one of Italy's br.-t
sculptors, should be visited : he was a pu-
pil of Canova, and his Venuses are justly
celebrated. Also that of Orfeo Orfei, one
of Bologna's best modern painters. Notice
his two beautiful pictures in the " Academia
dell' Arti," Dante before Caesar Borgia,
and the Music-lesson.
The Afuseo Civico (Italian, Etruscan,
Eyyptian, Roman, and Greek antiquities)
should be visited ; library of 200,000 vols.
The great savan, Joseph Mezzofanti, who
was born at Bologna in 1776, was formerly
librarian here. He was made a cardinal by
Pope Gregory XVI. At the age of 36 he
spoke fluently 18 languages, and at his
death 42. The rooms in which the library
is contained are 18 in number, all connect-,
ed, the entire length of which is COO feet,
to which are added four more, containing
Egyptian curiosities and a large number
of most curious relics lately excavated at
the Campo Santo (1870), consisting of per-
fect skeletons in every possible position,
and excavated just as they were found,
one belonging to a giant seven feet high.
Most of the skeletons are 3000 years old ;
many appear as if their owners had been
buried alive. Utensils containing food
were found near them, all in a most per-
fect state. Many weapons composed of
stone have also been excavated, said to be
6000 years old. The excavations are still
progressing, and promise to be full as in-
teresting as those of Pompeii. The JEXnw-
cim collection is well - nigh unique ; the
vases are numerous and elegant in pattern.
Piazza Vittorio Emanuele is situated in
the centre of the town, and is a most im-
portant object of interest. In the centre
stands the celebrated Fountain by Laureti.
The bronze statue of Neptune was exe-
cuted by Giovanni da Bolognn. It weighs
ten tons, and cost 70,000 ducats. This
cost, over 300 years ago, equals half a mill-
ion now.
In this piazza stands the Palazzo Pub-
lico, which dates from the 13th centurv.
Its fa<;ade is adorned with a Madonna and
a bronze statue of Pope Gregory XII.
The galleries are decorated with frescoes.
In the chapel is the "Madonna del Tor-
mento," and in the Hall of Hercules there
is a colossal statue of that god by Lom-
bardi.
The same place contains the Palace of
the Podestn, which dates from the 13th cen-
tury, the facade from the loth. It is par-
ticularly noted for being the prison of the
young and poetical Enzio, king of Sardin-
ia, and son of the Emperor Frederick II.
He was taken prisoner at the battle of
Fossa ta in 1249, and was kept prisoner by
the Bolognese twenty-three years, until his
death. He was solaced in his captivity by
a young and lovely damsel, Lucia Venda-
gola of Bologna, who under various dis-
guises managed to visit him, from which
connection the Bcnlivoglio family claim or-
igin. The Sala del Re Enzio is shown.
Palazzo del Mercanzea, or Chamber of
Commerce, was erected in 1294 ; restored
by the Bentivoglio in 1493. Its interior is
adorned with numerous monuments and
armorial bearings of the principal judges.
The Private Palaces of Bologna are nu-
merous, but nearly all the noted works of
art they contained have been taken away,
and those that remain are not open to the
public. One of the principal is the Palazzo
Pepoli, the residence of the once powerful
family of Bentivoglio, one of the best in
Bologna. It was destroyed once by the
populace at the suggestion of Julius II., a
rival of the great house. Fava contains
some splendid frescoes. Montunari, which
formerly possessed a magnificent collection
of pictures. Vicenzi; the court of this pal-
ace is superb. Zampieri had at one time
the best collection at Bologna ; nearly all
have been transferred to the Brera at Mi-
lan. Zumbeccari still contains some good
specimens.
The Campo Santo is one of the most in-
teresting sights in Bologna, and is decided-
ly the finest in Italy. It is situated out-
side the Porta St. Isaia, at the western ex-
tremity of the town, and was formerly a
Carthusian monastery, erected about the
middle of the 14th century, but was conse-
crated in 1801. All the noble families of
Bologna have monuments here, and many
of them are most magnificent, especially
those finished during the last few years,
1870, 1871, and 1872. The monument erect-
ed to a member of the Pallavicini family
(uncle of the owner of the villa near Genoa)
is very beautiful ; also that of Letizia Mu-
817
PlSTOIA.
[ITALY.]
PlSTOIA.
rat Pcpoli. erected in 1859. The statue of
her father, by Vine. Vela, is a splendid piece
of sculpture.
Notice, in the Piazza near the church of
St. Bartolomeo, the two leaning towers of
Asinelli and Garisenda. A visit should be
made to the royal chateau of St. Michele
in Boseo, also to the church of the Madonna
di San Luca, so called from an ancient pict-
ure of the Virgin, supposed to have been
p.iintad by St. Luke, and brought from Con-
stantinople. This church stands on an
eminence, about two and a half miles out-
side the gate of Saragozza.
Not less than two days should be de-
voted to Bologna.
Cabs, per hour, 1 fr. 50 c. ; the course,
75 c.
Theatres: del Comun\ C mtarati, etc.
The time from Bologna to Florence via
Pistoia is 4 h. 40 m.
From Bolor/na to Pistoia. Time, 2 h.
20 m. ; fare, 11 fr. 10 c.
From Bologna to Brindisi, by rail, via
Ancona ; distance, 475 miles. Time, 19 h.
59 m. ; tare, 95 fr. 'JO c. (Indian mail, 16 h.)
From ffokgna to' Ancona, by rail, via
Rimini, distance 123 miles. Time, 4f
hours ; fare, 23 fr. 10 c.
Custel Piftro, with a castle erected by
the Bolognese.
Continuing the route to Florence, the
line now passes over one of the most in-
teresting and grandest routes in Italy.
There are no towns of importance, but the
road is one succession of beautiful views,
like pictures set in a frame. As the trav-
eler emerges from the numerous gorges
and tunnels with which the road is filled,
he gazes with wonder at the depth of the
lovely valleys beneath him.
The distance to Florence is 4 h. 45 m.
Passing the towns of Marzabttto, after
which the tunnels come in quick succes-
sion, and Poretttt, where there are mineral
springs and baths, the lovely plains of
Tuscany break upon the view, a sight rare-
ly equaled in beauty.
Pistoia, finely situated a mile distant
from the left bank of the Ombrone, a branch
of the Arno, at the foot of the Apennines,
and contains a population of 12,000. Prin-
cipal hotels, // Globo and Stella d' Oro. Pis-
toia gave birth during the Middle Ages to
the two powerful factions, Guelphs and
Ghibelines, or "Blacks" and "Whites,"
818
which were originally the same family,
and for a long time desolated the coun-
try. Some of the members of this family,
which was closely connected, were playing
I cards in a tavern, when one of them gross-
ly insulted and wounded another, who. in
turn, laid in ambuscade for the brother of
the insulter, Judge Vanni, whom he se-
verely wounded; but the father of the
young man. knowing the customs of the
times, and wishing to appease the family
of Vanni, sent his son to the judge, but, in-
stead of being disarmed by this submission,
they cut off the hand of the young man,
and in this state returned it to his father,
whose thirst for vengeance was entered
into by every member of his immediate
family.
Near Pistoia Catiline was defeated and
slain.
Pistoia is a commercial town, with nu-
merous manufactories of cloths, arms, and
organs. Pistols were originally manufact-
ured in this town, hence the name. There
are several fine churches in Pistoia well
worth a visit. The bas-reliefs of the Ca-
thedral deserve particular notice ; some of
them are by the famous Andrea della Rob-
bia. Notice particularly the monument
of the poet Cino. The bas-reliefs of the
church of St. Andrea, by Giovanni da Pisa,
are well worth particular notice.
The church of Santa Muritt delV Umilfa
is the finest church in the city ; it is of oc-
tagonal form and in the Corinthian order.
It was constructed by Vitoni, a pupil of
Bramante, in the early part of the 16th
century. It contains several fine paint-
ings.
The churches of St. Jacopo, St. Giovanni,
and St. Domenico are the principal.
The palace of Prince Rospigliosi con-
tains some very fine pictures.
To Florence the distance by rail is one
hour.
Florence, for description, see Index.
IMOLA.
[ITALY.!
RAVENXA.
ROUTE No. 216.
Xfi'an to Brindi-si, vin Bologna, Rave'ina,
Rimini, Aitcon:i, unit Fog^i'i, an I Genoa to
Brimi'-i. lime. ~1\ h. 34 in.; fare, first
class, ll'.i fr. 3J o. ; second class, 91 fr. 80 c.
From Milan to Boloyna. See Route No.
215.
Imoli, a very ancient town of about
11.01 inhabitants, is situated on the San-
terno. In the Cathedral of St. Cassiano,
where repose the remains of the saint of
that name, is also to be seen the tomb of
St. Petrus Chrysologus, many years ago
Archbishop of Ravenna. There are few
objects of interest in Imola. A MS. Bi-
ble on parchment, greatly valued by Car-
dinal Mezzofanti during his life, can be
seen at the public library. Innocenzo da
Imola, passing most of his time away from
the city of his birth, found but little chance
to favor it with proofs of his geniu. At
about 4i miles from Imola is Ciistel Bologn-
ese, so called front the castle the Bologn-
ese built there in 1380. It is memorable
as the scene of the defeat of the Florentine
army in the year 1454 by the Milanese un-
der Piccinino. The road branches off here
to Rarenna.
[From Caslel Bol<gnese to Ravenna, time
1} hours : fare, 4 fr. 55 c.]
Leaving Castel Bolognese. and passing
Solaro'o, we arrive at Lugo, a town of about
8400 inhabitants, where little of intere>t is
to be seen except, perhaps, during the first
half of the month of September, at which
time a fair has been held ever since the
proconsulate of Marcus yEmilius.
Three miles from Lugo is the village of
Cotignnla, the birthplace of Attendolo Sfor-
za, the founder of the illustrious house of
dhat name. The ruins of the castle of Cu-
'\io, that famous stronghold of times gone
JV, may still be seen. We next arrive at
Rcirenna. This city has some 21.000 in-
habitants. The best hotels are the De
r Europe and the Spada cTOro : the former
is new.
Few cities in Italy recall more historic-
al reminiscences than Ravenna. It was
founded by the Pelasgi. The F.mperor
Honoring made it his residence, mostly on
account of its military strength. It after-
ward became the capital of the Western
Empire, and still later was taken posses-
sion of by the Herulian Odoacer, king of
Italy ; then by Theodoric the Great, king
of the Ostrogoths, who restored it, in a
great measure, to its firmer splendor. His
mausoleum is but a short distance outside
the fortifications. The Greek emperors
then held the city until the year 752, when
they were expelled by Pepin, king of tha
Franks, who delivered it over to the Pope,
from which time the right of possession
was very uncertain, it being disputed by
the Guelphs, the Ghibelines, and the Po-
lenta family. In 1318 Ravenna chose its
own government, but in 1441 internal dis-
cord induced the inhabitants to offer the
government to Venice, under whose rule
they prospered for over half a century. In
1509 it was seized by Julius II., and re-
mained under the Roman See until 1797,
when it again changed hands several times
within a few years. In the year 1512 one
of the bloodiest battles that Italy has ever
known took place under its walls. Gas-
ton de Foix, the celebrated French knight,
attacked the fortress with the troops of
Louis XII. under his command, and won
the victory for his country at the price of
his own life.
Ravenna is a rather unhealthy locality,
notwithstanding the great quantity of ver-
dure in the city. Although formerly a
sea-port, it is now, owing to the deposition
of sediment by the waters of the Po, some
three miles from the coast and six miles
from its former harbor, which is used for
fishery and the coasting trade. The town
itself, having become somewhat of a bath-
ing resort, is connected with the sea by the
Canale Naviglio, and carries on a large
maritime business with the provinces on
both sides of the Adriatic.
The cathedral, churches, monuments,
public edifices, squares, etc., of Ravenna
are all well worthy of notice. The Cathe-
dral of St. Orso, founded during the fourth
century by the saint of that name, con-
tains two of Guido Reni's best pictures, the
"Falling of the Manna," and the "Meet-
ing of Abraham and Melchisedec:" also
a fresco by the same artist, "An angel
bringing food to Elijah;" some fine fres-
coes bv his pupils, an urn containing the
remains of nine of the former bishops, an-
other containing the ashes of St. Barlatian.
the ivory chair of St. Maximian. with his
monogram still visible upon it, and, lastly,
some remains of the far-famed vinewood
819
RAVENNA.
[ITALY.J
/FAENZA.
door, inclosed in another of modern struc-
ture.
The Baptistery, an octagonal structure,
contains a Parian marble urn brought from
the temple of Jupiter at Caesarea.
St. Apollinare Nuovo, a basilica built by
Theodoric the Great in the beginning of
the sixth century. The rounded arches
are supported by twenty-four marble col-
umns brought from Byzantium, and the
walls of the nave are adorned with mosaic
work, of which the subjects are most inter-
esting.
I The Church of St. Giovanni Evangelista,
founded in the year 444 by the Empress
Gallia Placidia in fulfillment of a vow.
St.Nazario e Celso, the mausoleum of
Gallia Placidia, built in the year 440, in
which are to be seen the sarcophagi of that
empress, of the Emperor Honorius, and of
Constantine III.
The Tomb of Dante contains the sarcoph-
agus of that poet, with an epitaph of his
own composition inscribed upon it.
Among other places of imterest which
should be visited are the Public Li'.r-in/.
containing over 50,000 volumes, besides
some valuable MSS. of Dante and Aris-
tophanes, and the Accademia delle Belle
Arti, where may be seen some fine paint-
ings by native artists.
There are several interesting spots out-
side the city, of which we would recom-
mend to the traveler
The Mausoleum of Theodoric the Great,
founded by his daughter, Amalasuntha,
in the year 530; St. Apollinare in Classe
(named after St. Apollinare, who suffered
martyrdom in the year 74 under Vespa-
sian), erected in 534, and one of the best
preserved early Christian churches in Eu-
rope. The tomb in which the remains
of the saint once reposed is still in the
crypt
Near the Konco, some two miles from
the city, stands the Colonna da Francese,
erected in commemoration of the dearly-
bought and bloody victory of the French
under the celebrated Gaston de Foix, in
1512, over the papal troops and their allies.
The heroic commander of the French, the
pride of his nation and the terror of its
enemies, was one of the 20,000 that after
the victory lay dead upon the field of
battle.
Along the road from Ravenna to Cervia
820
stretches the far-famed Pineta, or Pine-tree
Forest. Byron often alluded to it, and
vies with Dante, Boccaccio, and Dryden in
praising its grandeur. It was one of his
favorite resorts during his stay in Raven-
na, for which place he had a great predi-
lection. His house may still be seen, and
is noticeable as having been later the resi-
dence of Garibaldi.
Carriages, per course, 1 fr. ; at night, 1^
fr. ; two horses, 2 fr. Outside the town,
one horse per hour, 2 fr. ; two horses, 4 fr.
Steamers to Trieste weekly, in 12 hours ;
fare, 27 fr. 50 c.
The traveler, after having seen Raven-
na, and wishing to avoid any part of the
railroad between Bologna and Rimini, may
proceed direct to Faenza, Forli, Cesena, or
Rimini, otherwise he will return to Caslel
Bolognese, and thence continue his route.
Faenza. Principal hotel La Corona.
Faenza, a town of some 17,000 inhabitants,
is situated on the Lamone, mentioned by
Dante in his Inferno. It was the birth-
place of Torricelli, Jacomone, and Bertuc-
ci. and is noted for its manufactures of pot-
tery (whence the French vror&faience) and
for its spinning and weaving of silks, both
of which manufactures were introduced at
a very early age.
The Cathedral of San Costanzo contains
a painting of the Holy Family by Inno-
cenzo da Imola, also some bas-reliefs by
Benedetto da Majano.
A painting of the Holy Virgin and a St.
John, both by Guido, may be seen in the
Capuchin Convent outside the town. San
Maglorio contains a Madonna by Gior-
gione, and in the Commanda is a painting
by Girolamo da Treviso of the Madonna
and Child, which is in every way worth}'
of that great master. A few paintings by
native artists are on exhibition at the Pi-
nacotheca. The Palazzo Communale, for-
merly the palace of the Manfred!, lords of
Faenza, should also be visited. Here it
was that Galeotto Manfredi was murdered
in the night by his jealous wife, Francesca
Bentivoglio. The grated window in the
centre which witnessed the deed is still
shown. This same window is alluded to
by Monti in his traged}' of Manfredi. Fa-
enza is connected with the Adriatic by the
Nanelli Canal, constructed in 1782.
Roads lead from Faenza to Ravenna and
Florence.
FORLI.
[ITALY.]
PE3ARO.
Forli. Principal hotel La Posta. Forli
is a finely built town, containing several
churches replete with works of art, which
can not fail to interest the traveler.
The Cathedral of th? ll>l>j O> ^ i< well
worth notice on account of its Chapel of
the Holy Virgin, the cupola of which wr.s
painted by Carlo Cignane ; "on which he
spent," says Lanzi, "36 years of his life,
leaving to posterity one of the finest works
of art extant."
The Church of St. Girolamo contains a
fine painting of the Conception by Guido,
some fine frescoes by Palmezzano and Me-
lozzo, and a Virgin and Child by the for-
mer. The roof was painted by Melozzo.
The church of St. Mercuriale contains
some fine paintings by Palinezzano and
Innocenzo da Imola.
The Campanile, erected in the year 1180,
is conspicuous on account of its height and
architecture.
The Finacotheca contains some very
good paintings by Cignani, Palmezzano,
etc.
The Citadel, built in the year 1359, and
now serving as a prison, is a place of great
historical interest. It has sustained two
heroic sieges against overwhelming supe-
riority of numbers, and in one case its re-
sistance was crowned with success.
Roads lead from Forli fo Ravenna and
Florence.
Cesena (principal hotel La Posta), a town
of 8000 inhabitants, is pleasantly situated
near the Savio. In the Palazzo Public^
is a beautiful painting of the Virgin and
Saints by Francesco Francia. The l.i'-u-
ry, founded in 14o2, contains some 4000
M>>. In the Church of Santa Maria del
Monte, on a hill about a mile from the city,
some interesting relics may be seen.
A few miles from Cesena are the well-
known sulphur mines, which, as a natural
curiosity, should by all means be visited.
Leaving Cesena and crossing the Piccia-
tello, identified with the Rubicon of Cacsa-
rean fame, we reach the Bridge qfAvyts-
tus, begun by that emperor, and finished by
Tiberius more than 18 centuries ago, built
of Istrian limestone, and in a fine state of
preservation. Crossing this bridge, we ar-
rire at
Rimini. Hotels, Aquilad'Oro and Trat-
toria Europa. Kimini contains some
18,000 inhabitants, and is situated near
VOL. II. N
the mouth of the river Marecchia. It is
fast becoming a place of importance, es-
pecially for its sea-bathing. In 1671 an
earthquake filled up its harbor and destrov-
ed its foreign commerce. It is a very old
town, having been taken by Caesar as ear-
ly as the year 49 B.C.. after his passage of
the Rubicon : in the square bearing his
name, the stone basement is still to \y; seen
from which he harangued the Roman army
after his entrance into the city. In the
year 538 the city was besieged by the Visi-
goths, but was rescued by Belisarius. It
afterward belonged for some time to the
Malatesti and the popes. The principal
objects of interest are the Porto, Romano,
formerly Arch of Augustus, built in honor
of that emperor by the inhabitants; the
churches of San Francesco, San Giuliano,
and the Palazzo del Comune, in the last of
which is a painting representing the Mar-
tyrdom of San Giulia.no by Paul Veronese.
An excursion should be made to the an-
cient republic of San Marino, the smallest
in the world, celebrated for having so vig-
orously defended its liberty when threat-
ened in turn by the popes, the Malatesti,
and Napoleon I. It was founded by San
Marino in the time of the Christian perse-
cution under Diocletian.
From Rimini to Anconaby rail, distance
58 miles.
From Rimini to Brindisi by rail, via A n-
cona, distance 408 miles.
Pesaro (hotels Leone d'Oro and Italia) is
a small town of some 15,000 inhabitants,
situated near the mouth of the Foglia. It
was the birthplace of Pope Innocent XI.,
of the painter Carilarini, and of the late
lamented Rossini. It received a Roman
colony as early as 184 B.C. Long after,
it was destroyed by Totila and rebuilt by
Belisarius. Its principal manufactures are
silk, pottery, and wax.
A diligence ride of 5 or 6 hours may be
taken from Pesaro to Urbino (fare 3 fr.), a
town of 12,000 inhabitant?, situated on the
Metauro. Urbino is celebrated as being
the birthplace of Raphael. It po--
the oldest academy in Italy, some church-
es, and other public edifices and monu-
ments, which should be visited if the trip
is made. Among these we will mention
the Ducal Palace, the Cathedra', and the
church of San Francesco di Paoli, in which
are two pictures by Titian the Resurrec-
821
AXCOXA.
[ITALY.]
ANCONA.
(ion and the Eucharist, both of beautiful
execution.
Returning to Pesaro and continuing our
route, we coma to fan m (in ancient times
Fanum Fortuiue, or the Temple of Fortune),
a small town of 8000 inhabitants. Hotel
Tre Re. This was formerly a place of
considerable military importance, as the
ruins of its fortifications testify. Like Pe-
saro, it was destroyed by the devastating
Totila and rebuilt by Belisarius, and, like
Rimini, contains an Arch of Augustus, ded-
icated to the first emperor of Rome.
The Cathedral of San Fortunalo and the
churches of Santa Maria Nuova and San
Baterniano possess some fine works of art:
an Annunciation by Guido Reni, and a Go-
liath by Domenichino, the former in the
Crypt of the, GabrieUi and the latter in the
Collegia Folfi. A very superb antique the-
atre should also be visited.
Leaving Fanum and crossing the river
Metauro, on the banks of which the Ro-
mans defeated the Carthaginians under
Asdrubal, we reach Sinigaglia (the Roman
Sena Gallid), a small fishing town with
8000 inhabitants, containing little to in-
terest the traveler. Hotel Locanda della
Fornica. Perhaps the only really pleasant
feature of the town is the annual fair held
from the 20th of July to the 8th of August,
in accordance with a custom of over 600
years 'standing. People flock to the town
during the above-mentioned period from
all parts of Italy.
Ancona, capital of the province of Ma-
rea, contains 45,000 inhabitants, of which
a seventh are Jews. Principal hotels, Vic-
toria and La Pace. The city was called
Ancona from the form of a promontory
near it, which greatly resembles an elbow
(in Greek, arikdri). An elbow now forms
part of the arms of the town. Ancona,
both in ancient and modern times, has been
a place of great military importance, as its
fortifications will show. It was founded
by a colony of Syracusans during the time
of the persecutions under Dionysius. The
Romans occupied the town 268 B.C., and
it was entered by Caesar after the passage
of the Rubicon. A free republic in the
Middle Ages, in 1532 Ancona placed itself
under the protection of the Pope. Taken
by the French in 1797, by the Russians in
1799, it was restored to the Pope in the
year 1814. It was again occupied by the
822
French from 1832 to 1838, and by the Aus-
trians from 1848 to 1859. It again l>elong-
ed to the Pope until 18G4, when the Papal
troops, under Lamoriciere, were driven out
j by General Cialdini.
A superb harbor was constructed here
by the Roman Emperor Trajan, but, unfor-
tunately, not deep enough for the larger
modern vessels. This harbor has two moles,
one erected by Trajan, and the other by
Clement XII. On each of these moles
stands a magnificent Arch of Triumph, one
erected by Clement XII., and the other
erected and dedicated to Trajan by the
Roman Senate, in commemoration of his
great services to the city. This latter,
constructed of marble of really astonish-
ing whiteness, and formerly adorned with
bronze statues, trophies, and bas-reliefs, of
which, we regret to say, but few traces re-
main, is generally considered to be about
as fine a specimen of grand old Roman ar-
chitecture as can be seen in Italy. Its el-
evated position tends also to enhance its
imposing aspect. The Arch of Clement
XII., though a fine specimen of architec-
ture in itself, and of more recent date, is
rather insignificant when compared to that
of Trajan. Ancona, at the present mo-
ment, is one of the chief seats of the foreign
and coasting trade of the Adriatic, with
manufactures of wax, tallow, silk, and pa-
per. Considerable attention is now being
given to its fortifications.
The Cathedral of St. Ciriaco, erected in
the tenth century on an eminence over-
looking the town, was formerly the site of
the temple of Venus mentioned both by
Catullus and Juvenal ; the churches of St.
Francisco, St. Affostino, and Santa Maria
della Piazza possess very beautiful Gothic
porticoes, of which that of the last named
is quite a study. Paintings, taking into
consideration the age and size of the city,
are rather scarce. S<. Domenico and St.
Francesco contain some fine works by Ti-
tian, Guido, and Bellini. The Palazzo del
Governo contains a small collection.
Ancona is celebrated for its beautiful
women, also for its immense prisons, which
are nearly the largest in Italy.
Cabs to and from the station, 1 fr. ; at
night, 1 fr. 50 c. ; one hour, 2 fr. ; outside
the town, 2 fr. 50 c. and 3 fr. 60 c.
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LOKETO.
[ITALY.]
FOOOIA.
Ancona to Trieste, via Venice, by Peirano,
Danoraro, & Co.'s steamers, every week.
Ancona to Genoa, by Peirano, Danoraro,
& Co.'s steamships, calling at intermediate
stations.
From Ancona to Brindisi by rail, a daily
express connecting with the Milan and Bo-
logna express train. Distance from An-
emia. 350 miles ; fare, 61 f. 50 c. ; time, 19
hours. The local trains stop either at Pes-
cara or Foggia for the night.
The eastern coast of Italy has not, until
very recently, enjo\'ed the patronage of
the ordinary tourist. Though generously
gifted by the hand of Nature, its beauty
can not vie with the more picturesque love-
liness of the western coast ; and having uo
cities like Naples, Rome, and Florence to
attract travelers, or to encourage would-be
corporations to lay down railroads, it has
only lately been brought into notice by
the completion of the railro:id from Bo-
logna to Brindisi. Tins road is now the
favorite route of travelers on their way to
the East.
The Apennines, of which the highest
peaks are, until the month of July, cover-
ed with snow, rise at a short distance from
the coast, keeping parallel with it as far as
41 of latitude; here they separate, one
chain going to the right, the other to the
left, leaving the Apuliau Plain in the cen-
tre. Here we find harbors which, if not of
considerable importance, are at least of
great promise, such as Brindisi, Gallipoli,
and Otranto. The larger towns only of
this district are blessed with tolerable
inns.
Passing Osimo, the ancient Auximum,
with its old walls still standing, and Castel-
Jiilartlo. where the papal troops were de-
feated by the Italians under Cialdini,
Loreto, the famous pilgrimage town,
composed of a single street filled with
booths for the sale of medals, images, etc.,
to the half - million pilgrims who conic
yearly to offer their devotions at the Chiesa
delta Casa Santa, built over the house of
Mary of Nazareth. It was miraculously
brought from that town by angels and
dropped on the coast of Dalmatia, where it
remained for three years, and was then
landed on the grounds of a widow. Laur< ta,
hence the name. A church was erected
over it, and for nearly six hundred years pil-
grimages have been made to it by all man-
ner of people. In 1506 Pope Sextus grant-
ed the privileges of a town to Loreto. The
Treasury contains many valuable votive
offerings; fee, 1 fr. The "Casa Santa"
is built of brick, and stands in the centre
of the church ; its front is 12J feet, depth
"28, and height 13. It is surrounded by an
exquisite marble screen, adorned with stat-
ues, sculptures, etc. The interior contains
an image of the Virgin and Child, said to
have been executed by St. Luke.
The Palazzo Apostolico contains some
fine pictures.
On the road from Ancona to Brindisi,
only three miles distant, is Fermo, the an-
cient Fermum Picenum, a town of 18,000
inhabitants, where some interesting an-
tiquities are to be seen. We afterward
pass Marano, at a distance of 4^ miles from
which was the celebrated temple dedicated
to the Sabine goddess Cupra, in the town
of Cupra Maritima ; beyond St. Benedetto
we cross the ancient Truentris, now the
Pronto, formerly the boundary-line between
the states of the Church and the kingdom
of Naples.
Pescara (hotel, Leone d'Oro), a fortress
of some importance, but a dirty and un-
healthy town of 3000 inhabitants. A rail-
way diverges hence toward Naples, via
Chieti and Popoli, finished as far as Sal-
mona.
Ortona, capital of the Frentani, contains
13,000 inhabitants. Hotel, Caprera.
Vasto, a town of 9000 inhabitants. A
small museum of relics and antiquities in
the town-hall.
Termoli, a fortress close by the sea.
The town is exceedingly dirty ; nothing to
see.
Near JKipalta, on the 15th of June, 1053,
Pope Leo IX. was attacked and captured
by the Normans of the famous Guiscard.
Foggia. Hotel, Grand Albergo di t'ni l-
lo. Foggia is a town of 35,000 inhabitants,
and is a well-built city for this part of Ita-
820
>_,ARLETTA.
ly, it having been almost entirely rebuilt,
owing to its destruction by an earthquake
in 1791. Foggia has witnessed many his-
torical events of interest, among which
may be mentioned the coronation of Man-
fred in 1258, and the marriage of Francis
I., then Duke of Calabria, to Maria Clem-
entina of Austria in 1797, whence her title,
Capella Palatina. Foggia is the point of
junction of two railroads from Brindisi and
Naples, en route via Foggia for Ancona.
Travelers going north from Naples to Bo-
logna gain 6 hours by making the journey
via Foligno, the train from Naples and from
Rome both arriving at Bologna at the same
hour.
Barhtta, a town of 29,000 inhabitants,
was founded in the llth century, and in
the loth was considered one of the strong-
holds of Italy. The first tournament ever
held in this country was given by King
Manfred in honor of Baldwin, the last Latin
emperor of Constantinople. Its impreg-
nability was, however, subsequently dis-
proved. At a short distance from Barletta
is Andria, a town of 34,000 inhabitants. In
the Cathedral of Andria once reposed the
remains of Isabella of England, who died
in 1241, third wife of the Emperor Freder-
ick II.
From Barletta to Bari the journey is
one succession of olive-gardens, plantations
of almond-trees, and vineyards, the beau-
ty of which can not fail to impress the
traveler. On the way we stop at Trani, a
fine seaport town of 25,000 inhabitants,
and noted for its wine.
Bari. H. A Ibergo del Risorgimento. This
is the capital of the province of the same
name, and a seaport town of 50,000 inhab-
itants. In the church of St. Nicolo a coun-
cil was held by Pope Urban II. in 1098,
having for its object the reconciliation of
the churches of Rome and Greece. This
church contains the monument of Boria
Sforza, Queen of Poland and Duchess of
Bari. A painting by Tintoretto, and one
by Paul Veronese, may be seen in the
church of St. Rocco. Railway from Bari
to Taranto.
Passing ^fonopoli, Fasano, and Ostuni,-wc
reach
Bnndisi (the ancient Brentesion, sig-
nifying " Stag's Head," so called from
the closing tendency of the arms of
the harbor). Principal hotel, Gran Al-
824
[ITALY.] BRINDISI.
bergo dell' Indie Orientale, near the har-
bor. It is generally supposed that Brin-
disi was founded by Diomedes. It was
in ancient times a place of considerable
importance, being, in the time of the Ro-
mans, the point of embarkation from It-
aly to Greece. It then boasted 60,000 in-
habitants. Paconius was born and Virgil
died at Brindisi. Tancred's son Roger
was here united in marriage to Irene, the
daughter of the Grecian emperor. About
this time the fleets of the Crusaders fre-
quently made Brentesion their stopping-
place. In 1348 the city was plundered and
the inhabitants put to the sword by King
Louis of Hungary. In 1-116 a frightful
earthquake destroyed nearly the whole
city, and a great part of its population. In
1845 it became a free port. Since its con-
nection by rail with the rest of Europe it
has rapidly become a town of importance,
being now the point of embarkation of
travelers going to different ports on the
Mediterranean. Brindisi is or was the ter-
mination of the celebrated Via Appia, so
often mentioned by different Latin poets
and historians. Horace speaks of his jour-
ney to Brindisi by this road. The princi-
pal object of interest in the town is the Cas-
tle, built by Frederick II. and finished by
Charles XII. The environs of Brindisi
are very unhealthy, owing to the marshes
surrounding the town.
Bnndisi to A lerandria, by the Peninsu-
lar and Oriental Steam Navigation Com-
pany's steamships, every Tuesday at 2
A.M., arriving at Alexandria on the fol-
lowing Friday at 7 A.M. Contract time
of passage, 75 hours.
Brindisi to Greece, Turkey, Blick Sea,
etc., by the Austrian Lloyd steamships,
via Corfu, Syra, Athens, Smyrna, Constanti-
nople, Odessa, Galatz, and Trebizond, every
Friday at 1.30 P.M.
Brindisi to Venice and Trieste, via Anco-
na, steamers twice a week.
Brindisi to Genoa and other ports of the
Western Mediterranean (see Ancona).
Brindisi to Otrnnto, by rail, in 3 h. 15 m. ;
fare, first class, 7 fr. 60 c.
Passing Lecce (hotel, iMln Feroniii),
containing 22,000 inhabitants, the capital
of the province.
The Lyceum contains a Museum of An-
tiquities. Near this is the village of fin we,
the ancient Rudica, the birthplace of En-
OTRANTO.
[ITALY.]
LUCCA.
nius, whose remains were deposited with
the Scipios at Rome ; then Muglie and
other places of no importance.
Otranto (the ancient Hydruntium), now
a town of little importance. It was occu-
pied by the Normans under Robert Guis-
card and Bohemund in the llth century;
but its greatest misfortune, and one from
which it never entirely recovered, was its
capture by the Turkish fleet of Mohammed
II. in 14SO, on which occasion 12,000 of
its inhabitants were put to the sword, the
rest carried offas slaves, and the city razed
to the ground. In one of the churches the
bones of many of the victims of this terri-
ble massacre are still preserved.
The (diligence) follows the coast to the
promontory of Leuca, the most eastern
point of Italy, where ^Eneas first beheld
Italy.
ROUTE No. 217.
Pisa to Florence, via the Baths of Lucca
and Pistoia. Time, 4 h. 4 in. ; fare, in^t
class, 9 fr. 5 c. ; second class, C fr. 35 c.
Pita. See Route No. 214.
From Pisa to Lucca in 48 minutes.
Lucca. Population, 68,309. Hotels,
Croce di Malta. /' Unirerg, and /' PtUicuiw.
Prices low. Lucca was formerly the capi-
| tal of the dukedom of Lucca, which terri-
tory comprised the whole of Tuscany and
Lucca. It lies on the banks of the river
| Serchio. in one of the most fertile and best
cultivated parts of Italy. Lucca is noted
for being the first place in Italy where silk
' was manufactured. The principal sight
is the Duijmo, founded about the middle of
j the 12th century. It is built in the form
i of a Latin cross, and has frequently been
restored ; the frescoes in vaulting in 1858.
The stained-glass windows are modern.
In the nave of the church is " II Tempiet-
t." a small chapel containing the Volto
Santo di Lucca, a crucifix said to have
been made by Nicodemus, and transferred
miraculously from the Holy Land in 782.
It i< shown three times each year. Be-
hind the Duomo stands the A rckiepiscopal
Palace. It contains some fine pictures
and statuary. The churches of San Gio-
vanni, San Michfle, San Romano, San Fre-
dwno are worthy of mention. Immediate-
ly in front of the ducal palace stands a
monument of Louisa, Duchess of Lucca,
raised to her honor by the citizens, in grat-
itude for building the aqueduct which sup-
plies Lucca with pure water. There are
some Roman remains here, consisting of
the ruins of a theatre and amphitheatre.
The principality of Lucca was conferred on
Eliza, Napoleon's eldest sister, by that
emperor, in 1805. She was a woman of
strong and masculine character, and did
much to improve her possessions. Her
subjects lost a wise and good sovereign by
the events of 1815.
Some fifteen miles from the town are
the celebrated baths of Lucca, to which
there is an excellent road, built by the
Duchess Eliza. Diligence several times
daily in 2 h. SO m. ; fare, 3 fr. ; carriage,
15 fr. These baths are the summer resort
of all the fashion of Tuscany. Hotels. Kn-
ropa and Croce di Malta. This watering-
place is one of the coolest and cheapest in
825
[ITALY.]
FLORENCE.
Italy ; for $1 50 per diem you can live in
good style. The Cttsino, or Ridotti, is fine-
ly situated on a hill near the new Ospedale
erected by Prince DemidofY. The baths
are celebrated for their cure of all cutane-
ous diseases. The facilities for the study
of music and the languages are excellent.
The charitable institutions of Lucca are
numerous for its size; the chief among
them is the Deposito di MenHcita, erected
in the early part of the 14th century.
The promenade around the ramparts of-
fers some delightful views : on the north
side may be seen the monument erected to
Charles III. of Spain.
About half an hour's drive from the town
is the royal Villa di Alarlia. It is sur-
rounded by fine grounds, and contains a
Greek chapel with some fine paintings.
Your hotel proprietor at Lucca will pro-
cure permission to visit it.
Near the Lake Massaciuccoli, six miles
from Lucca, are situated the ruins of the
Roman baths, Bagni di Nerone.
The line between Lucca and Pistoia
traverses a most lovely country, the gar-
den of Italy, rich in vegetation, and abound-
ing in silk and paper manufactories.
Monte, Catini possesses warm baths con-
structed by the Grand - Duke Leopold.
The water is largely exported as a remedy
for diarrhoea.
Pistoia to Florence, 1 h. 7 m. ; 3 fr. 85 c. ;
21 miles.
FLORENCE
fs beautifully situated on both sides of the
Arno. Population, 171,000. Principal ho-
tels : Hotel de la ViUe, Kraffs Hotel d' Katie,
de f Univers, and de Milan.
826
The Hotel de hi VUle is finely conducted
by Mr. Autenrieth, its new proprietor, and.
enjoys high patronage.
Kraft's Hotel d' Italic has lately been re-
stored, and is now one of the first houses in
Italy ; drainage perfect and cuisine admi-
rable.
The Hotel de FUfttVert, a magnificent
new house, with fine garden ; situated,
with full southern exposure, on the Arno,
in the most fashionable and cleanest por-
tion of the town; conducted by the pro-
prietor, Mr. Schiller.
The Hotelde Milan, a good, clean, second-
class house, No. 12 Via Cerretani, in the
most central and best position. Omnibus
at the station and moderate prices ; con-
ducted by the proprietor, Mr. A. Nucci.
Pensions. Good pension and furnished
apartments at Nos. 1 and 5 Borgognis-
santi.
To Florence has been awarded the title
of the fairest city of the earth. Who can
doubt it, situated as it is in the rich valley
of the Arno, surrounded by beauties of nat-
ure and of art, immortalized by Byron
and Rogers, and revered as the birthplace
of Dante, Petrarch, Boccaccio, Galileo, Mi-
chael Angelo, Leonardo da Vinci, Benve-
nuto Cellini, and Andrea del Sarto? What
beautiful recollections of the past must
naturally be awakened in the appreciative
mind while tarrying in a spot which has
given birth to such noble contributors to
poetry and the arts ? Beautiful gardens
adorned with statues, vases, fountains, and
other decorations, as well as the open
squares or piazzas, continually attract the
eye of the visitor ; and the palaces, which
are very numerous, each containing rare
paintings and sculptures, form the princi-
pal object of interest in this delightful city,
which is the pride of Tuscany. The cli-
mate cf Florence is delightful, varying but
30 from summer to winter.
The walls of the city are entirely un-
available for defense in modern warfare ;
their principle use is for the purpose of
collecting octroi duties. The city is en-
tered by nine different gates. The gate
Sun Gullet is an arch of triumph, erected in
1738 in commemoration of the entrance of
Francis II. This gateway leads to Bo-
logna and Fiesole. The bridges which
cross the Arno are six in number, four
stone and two suspension bridges. The
FLO
Public "Buildiiios
I I^lfcLXXO /*lttl
3 t'alaxzo recchio
V Museum o/'.\at Hist.
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6 Hospital ofS Jt.Xtu>i>a
Churches
7 />uimu>
8 S.Cr-oce
10 S.Jfar
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12 S.Lorcn --so
13 SS J^inita
14 S.Sfnrito
^? Cannuie
16 S.Jfcu-ia
17
18
19
20 Goldoni
?L Degli Intrepidim* T.
?2 Pergola
23
2k faaxK.o JUctxtr-cH
25 (orvim
26 .
27
28 Guicdtwdini
29 onoroOi,
30 J\at Office
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32 rf Peitixxj.
33
35 __ deUTcceUo
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Harp i'
N C EL
FLORENCE. [ITALY.]
etone bridges have been much injured at
different times by the rising of the river,
and some of them even carried away. The
most easterly is the Ponte alle Grazie, or
di Kubacorite, built by Lapo, father of Ar-
nolfo, in 1237. There are numerous small
houses on either side of it, and its great
solidity has withstood the rushing of the
waters, while all the others have been sev-
eral times destroyed. The next is the
Ponte Vecchio, built the second time in 1078.
It is lined with shops on either side, which
are mostly used by jewelers. The cele-
brated Maso Finigiierra, according to tra-
dition, here practiced his trade. Above
the houses runs a gallery connecting the
Palazzo Vecchio and Uffizi Gallery with
the I'itti Palace. Ponte a Santa Trinila,,
a very beautiful structure, built about the
middle of the 16th century. Formerly
carriages were not allowed to cross it, the
authorities thinking it too slender; but it
has proved not only beautiful, but strong.
At the angles are statues representing the
" Four Seasons :" their effect approaching
the bridge is very beautiful. Ammanuti
was the architect of this beautiful struc-
ture. Ponte alia Curraju, so called on ac-
count of its being mostly used for car-
riages. It has several times been rebuilt;
its last restoration was by Ammanati. Aft-
er its construction in the 13th century, or
in the early portion of the 14th, during the
May-day celebration, which was famous in
those days, a general invitation was given
to all the citizens to appear on the bridge
and witness a theatrical representation of
the infernal regions, which was to take
place on rafts below the bridge. It was
given out that any person wishing to hear
news from Satan's dominions could do
so, if present. The announcement drew
crowds. The bridge was filled to suffoca-
tion, and, while the demon's performers
were exhibiting their antics below, the
bridge gave way, and thousands probably
saw the reality more vividly than they ex-
pected. The two iron suspension bridges
are called San Ferdinando and San Leo-
poldo. The streets of Florence are finely
paved, but have few sidewalks. Some ex-
tensive improvements are now being made
jn the widening of streets and construction
of sidewalks.
The Duomo, or Cathedral Santa Maria
FLORENCE.
del Fiore. The architecture of the building
is quite interesting, and the building itself
massive and extensive. The original de-
sign was by Arnolfo, to whom the Floren-
tines intrusted the construction of an edi-
fice which they expressly desired to have
surpass any thing that had preceded it.
After Amolfo's death, the work upon it
was stopped until Giotto was requested to
proceed with it. He also died, and Hru-
nelleschi was called upon to complete it.
The entire length is 501 feet ; from the
pavement to the summit of the cross, 388
feet; transept, 305 feet long ; width of nave
and aisles, 129 feet ; height of nave, 154
feet; and that of side aisles, 97 feet. The
cupola is 188 feet in diameter ; it is the
widest in the world. It is grand in its
construction, and served as a model to Mi-
chael Angelo for that of St. Peter's, which
it exceeds in size. The Cathedral is finely
paved with various colored marbles ; and
the stained -glass windows, made in the
loth century, are the perfection of the art.
The Duomo contains the monuments of its
two principal architects, Giotto and Bru-
nelleschi : the bust of the latter is by Bug-
giano, one of his pupils, as is also that of
Giotto. Travelers should ascend the dome,
as a more correct idea of its proportions can
be Drained by so doing.
The C imprinile, or bell-tower adjoining
the Cathedral, designed by Giotto, rises to
a height of 275 feet. The staircase con-
sists of 413 steps, which are easy of ascent.
The erection of this tower cost an enormous
sum. It lias six laru'e bells, the largest of
which, named La Santa Repar.-ita. bears the
Medici arms. On the south side of the
Piazza are two statues, fine productions of
modern Italian art, by Pampaloni, in hon-
or of Arnolfo and Brunelleschi, architects
of the Duomo. That of the latter is very
good. On his knee is the plan of the cu-
pola, and he is looking up at the realization
of it. Near this statue is a stone let into
the wall, with the words " Sasso di Dante"
(Dante's seat), on which Dante used to sit
and contemplate the Cathedral.
The Battisterio di San Ginvuniti, of black
and white marble, was built with the ma-
terial taken from the Temple of Mars. It
is supposed to have been constructed in the
7th century. It was formerly open at
the top, like the Pantheon at Rome, but
was closed with a lantern in 1550. It was
827
FLORENCE.
[ITALY.]
FLORENCE.
completely surrounded by graves up to the
year 1293. They are alluded to by Boc-
caccio. The great attractions of the Bap-
tistery are its bronze doors. That on the
west was closed in 1 200 to make room for
the tribune : two of the other doors were
executed by Ghilierti, and one by Andrea
Pkano. This last is an allegorical history
of John the Baptist, for which Giotto gave
the design. The finishing of this door
was celebrated throughout Tuscany by a
festival. Ghiberti's doors were considered,
however, far superior to the other, and Mi-
chael Angelo. in speaking of them, declared
them worthy of being the gates of Para-
dise. The subjects are, 1. The creation of
Man; The pain of labor after the banish-
ment from Paradise ; Noah after the Del-
ite burial-place of the Florentines. Arnol.
fo was the architect.
feet, and width 135.
Its length is 460
Above the bronze
statue of St. Louis, bishop of Toulouse, aro
the letters I H S, placed there after the
plague in 1437 by St. Bernardino of Siena,
by whom these initials were inserted, to
denote the name and mission of our Lord,
Jesus Ilominum Salvator. In the centre
of the church is the slab tomb of John
Ketterich, bishop of St. David's, also of
Lichfield and Exeter, and who, sent as em-
bassador from Henry V. to Pope Martin V.,
died soon after his arrival in Florence.
The principal monuments of the church
are as follows : Michael Angelo Buonarotti.
The three statues of Painting, Sculpture.
and Architecture appear as mourners. His
uge ; The promise made to Abraham ; : bust, by Lorenzi, is considered a most cor-
Esau sells his birthright; Joseph and his | rect likeness. The position of this monu-
brothers ; The law from Mount Sinai ; ment was selected by Michael Angelo him-
The walls of Jericho ; The battle against i self, that he might see from his tomb the
the Ammonites ; The Queen of Sheba vis- | dome of the Cathedral, the delight and
its Solomon. The floor is paved with study of lii.s mind; Alfieri's monument,
white and black marble. Dante alludes by Canova, erected at the private expense
to this building as "Mio bel San Giovan-
ni," and seemed to take much delight in
it, notwithstanding he had the misfortune
to break a portion of the baptismal font in
saving a child from drowning. All the
baptisms of the city are still performed in
this church, the number annually being
about 4300. The tomb of Baldassare Cos-
sa, who was deposed by the Council of Con-
stance, and Otto Colonna elected in his
stead, is a noble design, and bears the pa-
pal tiara over the armorial, shields. In the
Guard troba, back of the Duomo, are pre-
served some objects of ancient art which
are very remarkable.
Church of Santa Croce, the most im-
portant church of Florence, containing
of the Countess of Albany ; colossal mon-
ument to Dante ; monument of Machiavel-
li; also of Lanzi, writer on Italian art;
Leonardo Bruni, surnamed Aretino ; Mi-
chele the botanist ; Nobili the philosopher ;
Giovanni Targoni, the eminent naturalist;
Galileo; Lami, the Florentine historian,
and others. The tomb of the Polish count-
ess Zamoyska is a fine piece of workman-
ship. , In one of the chapels on the right as
you enter is the tomb of the Countess of
Albany, wife of the last Pretender Stuart.
The pulpit belonging to this church, com-
posed of red and white marble, is a work
of great excellence. In the third chapel
to the right of the choir is the chapel of
the Bonaparte family. Here may be seen
monuments erected to the memory of many the monument of Julie Clary, wife of Jo-
of the most celebrated men of Italy. By-
ron alludes to it in the fourth canto of
Childe Harold :
"In S:inta Crocs' s holy precincts lie
A>h r< which make it holier; dust which IF,
Kvi'-i in it-elf, nn immortality,
Though there were nothing save the past, and
this.
The particle of thoe Bitblimi i, s
"NViiirh have ivl qisc 1 ' < i <>- : hero repose
Ang'loV, Alfieros bone-, and his
The starry Galileo, with hn \v. i :
Here Mnchiavelli'a eartli rotu'lu'd to whence
it rn.si ."
This church has always been the favor-
828
seph Bonaparte, and Charlotte Bonaparte,
wife of the brother of the late emperor,
Napoleon III. Notice over the principal
entrance the bronze statue of St. Louis,
bishop of Toulouse. Above this are the
letters I H S (lesus Hominum Salvator),
so universally seen in all Catholic church-
es. These letters were originally placed
in front of this church by St. Bernardino
of Siena, the inventor of the initials. Hav-
ing taken one of his flock to severe task
for the manufacture of playing-cards, the
man pleaded non-familiarity with any oth-
FLORF:;CE.
er source of livelihood. The saint told
him to put these letters on his blank cards
and sell them. They spread like light-
ning, and the man made an immense for-
tune. Notice near the north transept the
monument to L'aph.u 1 Morghen. the cele-
brated engraver. '1 lie fa<;ade of this truly
celebrated church was finally completed
in 1863, thanks to the liberality of a Mr.
Sloane, a rich minor, who contributed
"><) toward the ol.jc.-ct. Leopold II.
and I'ope Pius IX. also contributed large-
ly toward the object. Over the centre
door may be seen the coats of arms of the
three contributor? the keys of St. Peter,
the double-headed Cross, and the crossed
hammers of Mr. Sloane.
Piazza of Santa Croce, wherein the de-
mocracy of Florence established its power
in 1250. In the centre is a colossal statue
of Dante, inaugurated May 14,1865, by Vic-
tor Emunuel, in presence of a most brilliant
assembly, this being the 600th anniversary
of the poet's birth. It is by Pazzi of Ra-
venna, and stands upon a lofty pedestal,
surrounded by four lions, inscribed, ' To
Dante Alighiori ; Italy ; MDCCCLXV."
Church of IM Santissima Annuntiata,
dedicated to the ' Vcrgine Annunziata" by
seven Florentine gentlemen, who took up
their abode on Monte Senario, near Flor-
ence, in 1233 ; here Andrea del Sarto was
buried, and here also is his bust, taken in
his lifetime. The cupola is by Albert!, and
is one of his earliest works. The high-al-
tar is also attributed to him : it is richly
sculptured in high relief, with a front of
massive silver, and above it is a large t-ib-
ernacle of silver, rich in ornaments and
sculpture. In the chapels belonging to
this church are many interesting tombs :
Giovanni di Bologna, with sculpturing in
bronze by himself; tomb of Angelo Marzi,
bishop of Assizi and minister of Cosimo I. ;
tomb of the historians Giovanni Matteo
and Filippo Villani. In the chapel of the
Ann'inzi'it i is the miraculous fresco of the
Annunciation, upon which so much wealth
was expended ; also the celebrated fresco
of the Madonna del Sacco, by Andrea del
Sarto, for which painting he received only
a sack of wheat as payment.
Notice the Ciippella di San Luca, open-
ing into the large cloister.
The Piazza deir Annunziata, one of the
most pleasing portions of the city ; here are
VOL. II. X 2
[ITALY.] FLORENCE.
' located the buildings of the Spedale dtgf
Inniici'nti, or Foundling ffofpital, established
through the influence of Leonardo Bnmi.
In the chapel is a splendid Adoration of
Magi by dliirlandaio.
'1 he equestrian statue of Ferdinand I.
was cast from cannon taken from the Turks
by the Knights of St. Stephen; the two
bronze fountains, which are very beautiful,
were designed by Tacca.
Church and convent of the Cnrmine, for-
merly the most magnificent in Florence,
was entirely destroyed by fire in 1771, with
\ the exception of the Brancacci chapel.
Amateurs in painting should not fail to
j visit this sanctuary of art to see the cele-
brated frescoes of Masolino, Masaccio, and
Lippi: they were commenced by the first
in 1415, and finished by the last in 1505.
The different frescoes mostly relate to
! scenes in the life of St. Peter, and were
visited and studied in turn by Raphael,
Perugino, L. da Vinci, and Michael Ange-
lo. From the two small frescoes on the
left as you enter, Raphael took his inspira-
tion for his Loges and his St. Paul preach-
ing at Athens. The first is Adam and
Eve driven from Paradise, and the second
St. Paul visiting St. Peter in Prison. Be-
hind the altar of this chapel is a Greek
painting of the Virgin and Child, brought
from the East, said to have been painted by
Xt. lAike ! A small fee will induce the cus-
todian to expose it. In the choir is a tomb
of singular beauty, erected to Pietro Sode-
i rini.
Church of San Lorenzo. Some portions
1 of this structi. iv are attributed to Michael
Angelo: it is exceedingly rouuh in its ex-
i ternal appearance, but the interior is very
fine, having been recently decorated. The
original basilica was the most ancient in
the city. In the Cappella degli Operai is the
i sepulchral monument lately erected to the
eminent painter Benvenuto. Before the
high-altar is the memorial of Cosimo de'
Medici, upon which is the title of " Pater
Patriae," which was bestowed upon him
after his death.
In the Sayresti't Vecchia is the elegant
tomb of Giovanni di Averado de' Medici,
and of his wife Picarda ; also the costly
monument erected by Lorenzo and Giuli-
ano de' Medici to the memory of their fa-
ther and uncle, Piero and Giovanni.
In the Sagrestia Nuovn, or Cappella dei
829
FLOKENCE.
[ITALY.]
FLORENCE.
Deposit*, are the monuments of Giuliano
and Lorenzo de' Medici. Not only were
these monuments, which are considered
equal to any work of art of the kind in It-
aly, executed by Michael Angelo, but also
the chapel wherein they are placed. " Giu-
liano was the third son of Lorenzo the Mag-
nificent, younger brother, consequently,
of Leo X., and father of the Cardinal Ippo-
lito: he was created Due de Nemours by
Francis I., and died in 1516, in his thirty-
seventh year. Lorenzo, the son of Piero
and grandson of Lorenzo the Magnificent,
was created Duke of Urbino by his uncle,
Leo X. In 1518 he married Madeleine de
Boulogne, of the royal house of France :
the sole fruit of this union was Catharine
de' Medici, afterward the queen of Henry
II."
In the Medicean Chapel (which is at
the back of the choir, and may be visited
from 10 to 4 on application in the church)
are some magnificent mosaics and frescoes ;
in fact, one should by no means fail to visit
this edifice, as we think it the finest in
Florence. The chapel was commenced un-
der the reiirn of Ferdinand I., in 1604, and
was originally intended to hold the Holy
Sepulchre, which the Tuscan ruler intend-
ed stealing from Jerusalem, but his emis-
saries were detected after they had com-
menced detaching it from the church of
the Holy Sepulchre, in the centre of which
it now stands. The walls of the chapel
are magnificently inlaid with expensive
marbles and precious stones. Notice the
armorial bearings round the chapel ; they
are the very perfection of the mosaic art.
The frescoes of the cupola, which are most
magnificent, were executed by Benvenuti,
late director of the Academy, between 1828
and 1837. They represent the leading
events from the creation to the last judg-
ment (photographs of them, very finely ex-
ecuted, may be purchased in the chapel).
Notice the beautiful tomb and statue, in
gilded bronze, of Cosmo II., by John of Bo-
logna, and that of Ferdinand I. by Tacca.
The remains of the different grand-dukes
are in the crypt below the chapel. In the
cloister is the tomb of Paola Giovo, a cele-
brated historical writer.
The Laurtntian Library, raised by the
Medici family as a monument to the ad-
vancement of learning, has been the recipi-
ent of ma.ny most valuable MSS. ; the num-
830
ber is said to be about 9000 ; they rank in
importance, if not in numbers, next to the
Vatican : there are many choice works in
Hebrew, Greek, Latin. Coptic, Arabic, Syr-
iac, and Italian, of the 14th, 15th, and liith
centuries ; here also is the Medicean Vir-
gil, earliest MS. of the poet, and the first
MS. of the Pandects of Justinian, captured
by the Pisans in 1135, when they took
Amalfi. This work was formerly deified
at Pisa, and received equal veneration at
Florence for a lengthened period. Letters
of Dante, and many very ancient MSS.,
complete the literary attractions of this
place. One of Galileo's fingers, stolen from
his tomb at Santa Croce, is preserved in a
bottle. The library is open from 9 to VI
daily.
The Church of San Marco contains the
celebrated crucifix of Giotto, which attract-
ed such a concourse of people when it was
first brought to the convent ; to this pro-
duction he owes the popularity of his repu-
tation, which excelled that of his predeces-
sor Cimabue. The mosaic of the Virgin,
brought from St. Peter's at Rome, also
adorns this church, and interred here are
the three friends of Lorenzo de' Medici,
Politian, Benivieue, and Pico.
The Piazza San Marco is adorned with
a bronze statue of General Fanti, erected
in 1872.
The Monastery of San Marco has been
converted into the Museo Florentine de S.
Marco. Open in summer from 10 to 4, in
winter from 9 to 3; fee.lfr.; Sundays gratis.
The cloisters are now entered from the
street. They are decorated with frescoes
I of the 18th century ; but the gems are those
early frescoes of Fra Giovanni A nyelico da
Flesole. who lived here about the begin-
ning of the loth century. One apartment
contains the flags of all the towns and cor-
porations which were represented at the
Dante Festival in 1865.
Santa Maria Novella, situated on the
place of the same name, was commenced in
125C. It was called by Michael Angelo
; his " betrothed." This was considered at
one time the finest church in the city, but
restorations have disfigured it. It is most-
ly noted for the fresco paintings of Ghir-
landajo, master of Michael Angelo. They
should be visited early in the day, say 9
o'clock, and even then they are rather in-
distinct. It also contains the Madonna of
FLORKNCK.
[ITALY.]
FLORENCE.
Cimabue, which was considered at the time
the very perfection of the art, and was
carried in triumph from the studio of the
painter to the church, followed l>y the en-
tire populace.
The Cuppel/a del Gondi contains the fa-
mous crucifix carved by Brunelleschi in
rivalry with Donatello, who executed the
one now in Santa ('nice. When the latter
first saw the work of Brunelleschi he let
fall his apron which contained his dinner,
exclaiming, "To you is granted the power
of carving iigures of Christ, to me that of
peasants." Ths interior of the church is
considered one of the finest works of Bru-
nellochi : it is in the form of a Latin cross,
31 G fest long, and 109 feet wide across the
body of the church. Aisles formed of Corin-
thian columns magnificent balustrades of
bronze and marble inclose the choir.
'1 lie other churches of importance are
San Mil-lit-!'^ Stm Spirito, and San Ambro-
yio. In the church of Ognisanti, situated
on the I'i.izza Miinin, near the Hotel de la
Ville, in the chapel on the left of the tran-
sept, is the tomb of the discoverer of Amer-
ica, Amerigo Vespucci : his house stood
upon the site of the Ospeale di San Gio-
vanni di Dio.
Piazza del Gran' Z>ra, the principal bus-
iness portion of the city ; here stands the
J J (iluz:o Vtcchio, formerly the residence of
the superior magistracy, now converted
into government offices. The chief object
of attraction is the great saloon, which is
connected with remarkable passages in
Florentine history: its length is 169 feet,
by 77 in breadth. In the rooms above the
saloon are some portraits of distinguished
families of Florence, among them that of
Bianca Capello, the celebrated grand-duch-
ess. The Piazza contains many fine stat-
ues, among which is the bronze equestrian
statue of Cosimo I. by Giovanni di Bologna;
the David, by Michael Angelo (sculptured
at the age of 23), is located on the left of
the doorway of the Palazzo. On the right
of the entrance is the colossal group of
Hercules by Bandinelli. The lion is the
work of Donatello. The Fountain of Xejv-
tune. b\- Ammanati, also adorns the Piaz-
za; it is erected on the site where the Re-
former Savonarola suffered martyrdom.
The l.off'f'n di [jtnzi, finely proportioned,
and considered by Michael Angelo to be
beyond improvement. Under it are some
fine specimens of sculpture, the most im-
portant of which is the Perseus by Bcnve-
nuto Cellini, and the Rjpe of the Sabines
by Giovanni di Bologna. Judith slaying
Holofernes is by Donatello, and the Dying
Ajax supported by a Warrior. Near this
Piazza are the two markets, the M< r<-<i!<>
jfuoco and Mercato Vecchio. Adjoining the
Piazza del Gran' Duca is the Uffizi Gallery
of paintings and sculpture, forming three
sides of an open court. On cither side of
the entrance are statues of Cosmo I. and
Lorenzo the Magnificent. Along the sides
of tha court, placed in niches, are statues
by modern artists of the great men of Tus-
cany, commencing with Andrea Organi,
Niccolo Pisano, Giotto, Donatello, Alberti,
Leonardo da Vinci, Michael Angelo, Pe-
trarch, Dante, Boccacio,Machiavelli, Guic-
ciardini, Amerigo Vespucci, Galileo, Mi-
cheli, Recli, Maseagni. Andrea Cesalpino,
Antonio, Accorso, Guido Aretino, and Ben-
venuto Cellini, the last holding in his hand
a miniature of his Perseus.
The fj/i-i dull nj Calli-i 1 1 fmperiale e
li . Open daily between the hours of
( .i and;?, Sundays and feast-days excepted,
when it is open from 10 to 3, and on Tues-
days from !_' to 3. On the occasion of
great festivals it is closed all day ; so also
is the Pitti Palace. The collection of
paintings in this gallery is. without doubt,
the richest and most varied in the world,
with the exception of the Royal Gallery at
Madrid ; neither is it so extensive as either
the galleries of the Louvre, Dresden, or
the Belviderc at Vienna. Ascending three
flights of stairs, we enter the first vestibule,
wherein are placed the busts of the Medici
family, ton in number. In the inner vesti-
I bule arc some fine statues : the Florentine
! Boar; two wolf-dogs, noble figures, seated
I on either side of the door; several busts,
and other specimens of art. The corridors
are occupied as picture and sculpture gal-
leries. In our description we will com-
mence near the entrance of the eastern cor-
ridor, with the pictures chiefly of the Tus-
can school. One of the finest is by Fra An-
gelico da Ficsole, representing the Virgin
and Chilil MI the centre surrounded by
saints; around the Virgin and Child are
painted angels on a gold ground. Busts
and statues follow next in order, and
among the varieties many fine ones may
bo discussed. In a narrow corridor, enter-
831
FLOKEXCK.
[ITALY.]
FLORENCE.
ed by a small door just beyond the statues,
are sculptures of the mediaeval Tuscan
school, many of which, by Donatsllo, Mi-
chael Angelo, etc., are worthy of particular
attention for their composition and expres-
sion. On the sarcophagi placed in the
eastern corridors are various lias-reliefs,
the subjects of which are taken from hea-
then mythology. In front of one is the
representation of the fall of Phai-ton, and
on the opposite side an illustration of a
chariot-race in a circus, perhaps the Circus
Maximus at Rome. Each chariot is being
drawn by four horses. In the western cor-
ridor the gems are many. Notice partic-
ularly the Drunken Bacchus and Faun. No.
380; "the Wounded Adonis, 382; and an
Apollo, all by Michael Angelo, the last but
just emerging from the marble. Here is
also a fine reproduction of the Laocoon.
In the southern gallery the gems are the
Venus Anadyomena and the Young Athlete.
The first room to the left, entering from the
eastern corridor, is called the Tribune, a
small circular apartment, which not only
contains the chefs-d'oeuvre of this gallery,
but of the world, both in painting and sculp-
ture. The works of sculpture are five in
number; the first is the world-renowned
statue of the Venus de Medici, so called be-
cause it was brought to Florence during the
reign of Cosmo III. de Medici : it was found
in the portico of Octavia at Rome. The in-
scription on the pedestal says it was sculp-
tured by the Athenian Cleomenes, son of
Apollodorus. It is considered the very per-
fection of design and workmanship : it was
restored by Bernini. The Apollino, or
Young Apollo, is of the same school : it is
generally attributed to Praxiteles, the most
celebrated sculptor of Greece. The Danc-
ing Faun, restored by Michael Angelo. The
Lii-t'itori, or Wrestlers, and the Anolino, a
slave whetting his knife, complete the five
wonderful works which have gained such
a world-wide reputation.
In this apartment are also the finest
paintings in the collection : Michael An -c-
Iri the Virgin presenting the Infant to St.
.Icseph. Raphael La Madonna del Cor- j
dillino (Goldfinch); La Fornarina, painted
in 1512 ; St. John preaching in the Desert, j
Titian the Venus (alluded to by Byron) ; j
M'onsignora Beccadelli, painted while the ,
artist was in his 75th year. Paul Vero- :
nese Holy Family, with St. John and I
St. Catharine. Annibal Caracci a Bac-
chante : Pan; and Cupid. Guercino a
Siljyl ; Endymion sleeping. Fra Barto-
. lomeo two fine figures of the prophets
Isaiah and Job. Daniele da Volterra the
Massacre of the Innocents. Andrea del
Sarto a very splendid picture of the Ma-
donna and Child, between St. John the
Evangelist and -St. Francis. It bears the
date of 1517, and i.s one of the finest works
of this great painter, whose merits are
scarcely appreciated elsewhere than in his
native city. The history of this grand
master is quite interesting. Andrea, call-
ed del Sarto because he was the son of a
j tailor, was born at Florence in 1488. He
; was placed at first with a goldsmith, whom
he left for the instruction of Giovanni Ba-
rili, whom he again left for the studio of
i Pietro di Cosimo. But it was from the
study of Masaccio, Gliirlandaio, Leonardo,
and Michael Angelo that he received his
most valuable instructions. He had great
versatility of talent, and could imitate the
I style of other artists with marvelous fidel-
! ity. His genius inclining him to the grace-
ful and the tender, he lacked boldness and
j decision in treating grand subjects. He
| visited the principal cities of Italy, and
' was invited to Paris by Francis I., whore
he was received with great distinction,
j He returned soon to Florence, however,
where he led a life by no means beyond
reproach. He died in 1550. Albert Du-
rer Adoration of the Magi. Andrea Man-
teima the Circumcision ; Adoration of the
Kings ; Resurrection. Pietro Perugino
Virgin and Child between St. John the
Baptist and St. Sebastian. Correggio
the Virgin knee-ling in Adoration before the
Infant, who is reposing on a portion of her
drapery; the Virgin and Child between
St. Joseph and St. Francis : this is one of
the artist's earliest works, being painted at
the age of 20. Vandyke two fine por-
traits, one of Charles V. on horseback,
armed ; the other of Giov. di Montfort. B.
Luini Ilerodias receiving the head of St.
John. Parmegianino Holy Family, with
St. Mary Magdalene and Prophet Zacha-
rias. Guide a Virgin in Contemplatii n.
Giulio Romano Virgin and Child. Ru-
bens Hercules between Vice and Virtue.
North of the Tribune, leading from it, ;:rj
three rooms.
First. Loom ; L. da Vinci Medusa's
FLORENX-K.
[ITAIA.J
FLOBENCB.
Head. Fra Angelico da Fiesole four pic-
tures, representing the Birth of John the
Baptist, Coronation of the Virgin, Mar-
riage of the Virgin, Deatli of the Virgin.
Second Rovm : Ridolfo del Ghirlandaio
Sin /cnobio rui.-ing a dead Child: Trans-
lation of the Body of the Saint. Mariotto
All)ertinelli the Visitation of St. Eliza-
beth. Vasari Lorenzo do Medici. Bron-
zino Descent of our Savior into Ihules.
considered liis greatest work. Leonardo
da Vinci Adoration of the Magi. Cigoli
Martyrdom of St. Stephen. II Sodomo
Martyrdom of St. Sebastian. Filippino
Lippi Adoration of the Magi ; Joseph and
Potiphar's Wite ; and Judith slaying Holo-
fernes. The third room contains some
early Florentine paintings.
In a room opening out of the south side
of the Tribune are some works of the other
Italian schools. Here, also, is a piece of
Grecian sculpture, consisting of a table of
Oriental alabaster, upon which is placed
the statue of a sleeping Cupid. In four of
the other rooms are pictures of the French,
Flemish, German, and Dutch.
At the end of the S. corridor is the Cab-
inet of Gems. Among the many curiosities
is a vase, cut out of a block of lapis lazuli,
14 inches in diameter; two bas-reliefs in
gold ; a vase of sardonyx, upon which is
engraved the name of Lorenzo de' Medici ;
a bas-relief in gold, representing the Piaz-
za del Gran' Duca ; a casket of rock crys-
tal, an exquisite piece of workmanship,
representing the events of the Passion, in
17 compartments. It was executed by Va-
lerio Vicentius, assisted 1 by his daughter ;
a species of shrine, made of enamel and
pr.-cious stones, representing the portrait
of Cosimo I. ; a tazza of lapis lazuli, with
handles of gold, enameled, and mounted
with diamonds. Passing from the eastern
to the western corridor, we descend to the
ttruscun Museum, which contains many
-tin.; vases and other curiosities.
This apartment connects with the gallery
which leads to the Pitti Palace across the
Arno.
In two large rooms, which are entered
from the western corridor, are many paint-
ings of the Venetian school. Here, also,
are the. portraits of celebrated painters, ex-
ecuted by the artists themselves. In the
centre of the large room is the celebrated
Medicean vase, found at Hadrian's villa,
near Tivoli. Adjoining the last is the Hall
of Inscriptions. The gems here are the cel-
ebrated Venus Urania, 266, and the \'<niu
'f. In a small room leading to this
hall is the Hermaphrodite, also an infant
U .it runt/' : /.i/ .V ,;/ ,-('.<, and a group
of Cupid and P.-yc/i>. On tins wall is a
marble mask of a Satyr, executed by Mi-
chael Angolo at the age of fifteen. In a
small room opsning from the last is a fine
collection of antique gems.
Hall ofBaroccio : Bronzino's Deposition
from the Cross. Velasquez Philip IV.
of Spain, on horseback. Rubens picture
of Bacchus, surrounded by Nymphs. Ba-
roccio the " Madonna del Popolo."
Handhorst, called Gherardo della \otte
Infant Savior in the Manner. One of the
finest copies ever made of this splendid
: composition is in the possession of \V. B.
Dinsmore, Esq., of New York. It was ex-
, ecuted by Costi, of Florence. In this room
are three tables, composed of Florentine
mosaic, one of which is the most magnifi-
cent piece of work of the kind ever made.
It took 25 years to complete it. Twenty-
two workmen were engaged upon it.
llnH of Xiobe, in which are eighteen fig-
ures of Niobe and her children, which were
for a long time located in the Villa Medici,
and brought to Florence in 177J. They
were discovered, previous to 1583, near the
Port i S. Paolo at Rome. Many strange,
suppositions have taken place as regards
I their origin. Among the other pictures
: contained in this room are : Rubens
Henry IV. at the Battle of Ivry his En-
try into Paris after the Battle. The oth-
er objects of interest in the gallery are the
bronzes, medals, drawings, and engrav-
ing.
'The Pitti Palace, Pallazo rilti, the
former residence of King Victor Kmamiel,
was commenced l.y Lnca I'itti. a strong
opponent of the Medici family, who at one
time exceeded them in popularity. Tho
first architect employed upon this splendid
edilice was Brunelleschi. Its erection was
af:>Tward continued by Bartolomeo Am-
manati, by whom the wings were added,
and the splendid court completed, in which
miens of sculpture in iv
be observed. The chief attraction, howev-
er, of this palace is the collection of p.unt-
in^s which number about 500, and are of
perhaps greater attraction than those con'
833
Fl.OKKNCK.
[ITALY.]
FLOREXCK.
tained in the Uffizi. The gallery is open
daily (with the exception of festival-flays
and Sundays) from 10 to 3. Catalogues
will be found in each room. No fee ex-
pected.
Hall of the Iliad: the ceiling of this hall
was painted twenty years ago by Sabatel-
li. Andrea del Sarto two pictures of the
Assumption. Fra Bartolomeo the Virgin
enthroned. Scipione Gaetano portrait
of Mary de' Medici, queen of France. Vis-
itors were formerly admitted by the prin-
cipal entrance instead of the entrance to
the Boboli gardens ; and as the beautiful
frescoes of the ceilings of the five principal
halls are an allegorical representation of
the life of Cosimo I., it will be necessary
first to look at the pictures on the walls,
then, when returning, commence an exami-
nation of the ceilings with the Hall of
Venus.
Hall of Saturn: here Cosimo is repre-
sented as being in mature age, and is con-
ducted to Saturn by Mars and Prudence
to receive the crown offered by Glory and
Eternity. Paintings : Raphael Pope Ju-
lius II. Schiavone the Death of Abel.
Vandyke two portraits of Charles I. and
Henrietta Maria, his queen. Raphael
the Madonna del Baldacchino ; a portrait
of Cardinal Bibbiena, and a portrait of
Tommaso Fedra Inghirami. Andrea del
Sarto Disputation on the Trinity. Ra-
phael the Vision of Ezekiel. Domeni-
chino St. Mary Magdalene.
Hall of Jupiter : Cosimo being led into
the presence of Jupiter by Hercules and
Fortune. Salvator Rosa the Catiline
Conspiracy. Michael Angelo the Three
Fates. Borgognone a battle-piece. Fra
Bartolomeo Di St. Marco. Tintoretto
portrait of Vincenzo Zeno. Paul Veronese
the Man's at our Savior's Tomb.
Hall of Mars: on the ceiling are alle-
gorical representations of Cosimo's success
in war. Raphael the celebrated and
lovely Madonna della Seggiola, consider-
ed the sweetest of all his Madonnas. An-
drea del Sarto one of his best Holy Fam-
ilies. Rubens " Les Suites de la Guerre."
Vandyke portrait of Cardinal Bentivo'.:-
lio. Andrea del Sarto subjects from the
History of Joseph and Brethren. Gui-
do Rebecca at the Well. Cristoforo Al-
lori Judith with the Head of Holofer-
nes. Rubens portraits of himself and
834-
brother, and the philosophers Lipsius and
Grotius.
Hull of Apollo: Cosimo. guided by Vir-
tue and Glory, is received by the Deity of
Poetry and the Fine Arts. (',. da Caspi
portrait of Archbishop Bartollni Salimhe-
ni. Palma Vecchio Supper at Emmaus.
Murillo Virgin and Child. Guercino
St. Peter resuscitating Tabitha. Titian
portrait of Pietro Aretino. Cristoforo
Allori the Hospitality of St. Julian. T.
Titi portrait of Prince Leopold, afterward
Cardinal de' Medici, wnen a child. An-
drea del Sarto Deposition from the Cross.
Raphael two portraits ; one of Maddalena
Strozzi Doni, the other of her husband An-
gelo, painted when Raphael was but twen-
ty-two years of age. These paintings are
very carefully preserved, being considered
two of the most valuable ornaments of the
gallery. Baroccio portrait of Prince Fred-
erick d'Urbino, when a child. Giulio Ro-
mano a copy of Raphael's Madonna della
Lucertola. Raphael Leo X.. with two
cardinals. Andrea del Sarto his own por-
trait. Titian a Magdalene.
Hall of Venus (so called from the alle-
gorical representation of the triumph of
Reason over Pleasure a youth, under the
figure of Cosimo I., is rescued from Venus
by Minerva, and conveyed to Hercules).
Tintoretto Cupid born of Venus and Vul-
can. Salvator Rosa two fine coast views.
Rubens two noble landscapes. Rem-
brandt portrait of an old man. Beleverti
Marsyas. Cigoli St. Peter walking on
the Waters. Bassano Martyrdom of St.
Catharine.
Hall of the Education of Jupiter : here
arc some paintings which are mostly by
unknown artists, and not generally of very
high standing. The Stufa or Cabinet,
which is beautifully frescoed, contains two
bronze statues of Cain and Abel by Duprc,
and a column of black Egyptian porphyry.
The other halls are quite interesting in their
specimens of paintings and statuary, such as
the WaKofUlysfes, representing his return
to Ithaca. Here arc two splendid land-
scapes by Salvator Rosa, and a Madonna
and Child by Titian. The next is the
/laW of Prometketu, frco;vl by Colignon.
In the centre of this room is a magnificent
mosaic table which cost nearly $200,000 :
nearly fifteen years were taken in complet-
ing it. It was made at the national man-.
FLORENCE.
[ITALY.]
FLORKM K.
ufactory. The room opening from this
contains a splendid malachite table, and a
fine bust of Xapoleon I., presented by Louis
Napoleon, father of the present emperor, to
the late grand-duke. Passing through the
corridor into the SattofJuttiae, where there
are some line paintings by Carlo Dolce,
we enter next the Hall ofCa.nova's \'enus,
which statue stands on a pivot in the cen-
tre of the room. It formerly stood in the
Tribune where the Venus of Medici now
stands, that figure having made the excur-
sion to Paris to grace the triumphs of the
conqueror Napoleon. In the next and
last room, which contains numerous flow-
er-pieces and landscapes, may be seen Sal-
vator Rosa's great picture of Diogenes
throwing away his cup on seeing a youth
drink water out of his hand.
The Private Library has 60,000 volumes,
and is considered the most useful library
in Italy ; it is very extensive in works on
Natural History. The most of Galileo's
MSS. are preserved here.
Joining the palace are the Ftoboli f!ar-
>li'it*. planned by II Tribolo tinder ('osimo
I. From the upper portion of the ground
fine views of Florence may by obtained.
The beauty of this lovely spot is greatly
increased by the terraces, statues, etc. ; the
most remarkable of the latter are four un-
finished ones by Michael Angt-Io; Venus,
by Giovanni Bologna ; statue of Abun-
dance, commenced by Giovanni 1'ologna
and completed by Tacca. The g miens are
open to the public only on Sundays and
Thursdays.
The National Muffim, situated in the
Palazzo del Podesta, formerly used as a
prison, contains a collection of mediaeval
and modern art. Open daily, fee 1 fr. ;
Sundays free. The ground floor contains
specimens of weapons. After ascending
the stairway, notice a bell in the vestibule
cast in 1228. There are seven saloons on
the lirst floor. filled with mediaeval statuary.
ancient furniture, and crystal, cabinets of
faience, and bronzes from the Uffizi Gal-
lery. The upper floor possesses frescoes
and stained-glass windows.
The Acii'lemy of the Fine Arts (from 9 to
3, Sundays exeepted) contains a fine pro-
gressive series of paintings from Cimnbue
to the highest perfection in the art. The
entrance - hall contains busts of great
painters, and bas-reliefs in terra-cotta by
Luca della Robia. The hall of the great
pictures contains some 120 specimens. The
hall of ancient pictures, artists unknown ;
hall of small pictures from the 14th to the
17th century. Hall of Cartoons contains
some fine designs by Raphael and other
great masters ; and, on an upper floor, six
rooms containing modern Italian pictures.
Joining the Pitti Palace are the Muxto
di Storia Naturale and Specola. This last
contains many objects of curiosity well
worth examination both by the intelligent
traveler and scientist. To ladies we would
say. woman can not sacrifice her womanli-
ness for science at all times, and we must
say it requires a considerable degree of res-
olution to overcome the feelings of repug-
nance and shame that any modest woman
must feel at entering this room with a
promiscuous party, although a sight more
interesting and instructive is difficult to
meet. In addition to the well-arranged
halls, filled with minerals and plants,
many apartments are devoted to wax
models of the human figure ; here science
has laid bare the whole machinery of the
human being, and all colored to resemble
nature. Every separate part of the hu-
man form, bodies, legs, hearts, lungs, etc.,
are displaj'ed upon cushions, some under
-las>; whole forms the size of life, both
male and female, lie exposed on white beds,
opened from the throat downward, ali laid
bare. Youth and old age as if asleep,
with the life-warm coloring of flesh, veins,
and skin.
The Tribuna, dedicated to the memory
of Galileo, which is situated on the first
floor of the building, contains three beau-
tiful frescoes, representing scenes in the
'life of the great astronomer: one shows
, him n the Cathedral at Pisa swinging the
lamp which originated in his mind tin- law
of mechanics - t -Mch regulated the pendu-
lum; the second demonstrating the truth
of the telescope before the Doge and ( 'oun-
cil of Ten at Venice ; in the third he is r< p-
resented blind, with one hand on a glebe,
the other pointing to the heavens, and d -
monstrating to two pupils the motion of
the heavenly bodies. Immediately under
the rotunda there is a line white marble
I statue of Galileo; also one of his linger-,
encircled with a ring, pointing upward :
this last is under a glass case. All his in-
struments are also preserved here. The
835
FLORENCE.
floor of this beautiful tribune is mosaic,
the walls white marble, covered with ara-
besques of birds and flowers.
In addition to the Patti Palace, Uffizi,
and Academy of Fine Arts, there are sev-
eral private galleries, belonging to noble-
men, which are thrown open to the public,
many of them containing very valuable
pictures ; among these are the Ferroni,
Corsini, Strozzi, and the Torrigiani galler-
ies.
The Egyptian and Etruscan Museum ;
open daily from 9 to 3 ; fee, 1 fr. ; Sun-
days gratis. It is situated in the Palazzo
della Crocetta, 26 Via della Colonna.
The other buildings of interest are the
Biblioteca Magliabecchiano, Royal Mosaic
Manufactory, and the charitable institu-
tions. In the same building with the
Egyptian Museum is the Cenacola, or Last
Supper, by Raphael, discovered in the con-
vent of San Onofrio in 1845.
Majolica. Admirers of artistic majolica
should not fail to take a pleasant little
drive of half an hour to the CantagalK
majolica manufactory, on the way to the
Certosa, just outside the Porla Romano,
(Roman Gate). They can view here all
kinds of majolica, ancient and modern re-
productions in every style, intended either
for ornament or use, from the tiniest play-
thing to massive vases, etc., of great value.
The Messrs. Cantagalli have instructed
most of their own artists, and aro very
obliging in their explanations of every-
thing to the English and American travel-
ers, whether purchasers or nor.
Theatres. They are nine in number:
La Pergola, under the management of about
thirty proprietors of rank, and is called the
Grand Opera of Florence ; it is a fine hous*,
and will accommodate about 2500 persons :
opera and ballet. The others are the Te-
atro del Cocomero, for comedy and tragedy ;
Teatro Nuovo ; Teatro Leopoldo ; Teatro
Goldoni; Pagliano, etc. The prices of ad-
mittance are low.
The Hyde Park and Bois de Boulogne of j
the Florentines is the Cascine, on the pen- j
insula formed by the junction of the Arno j
and Mugnone. This is decidedly the j
836
[ITALY.] FLORENCE.
most charming drive and promenade in
Italy. It derives its name from the dairy-
houses of the late grand-duke, which are
situated near the centre of the drive, and
which supply Florence with its purest milk
and butter. From the Leghorn railroad
station, immediately outside the Porta al
Prato, the bank of the Arno is laid out as
a beautiful walk and drive, overshadowed
by magniiicent trees, for the space of two
miles. About midwaj' the grounds are
laid out in a circle ; here, several after-
noons in the week, the bands perform, and
here the fashionables of Florence make
their calls. For the space of two or three
hours every afternoon, from the hours of
four until seven, all Florence that is, all
of Florence that pretends to be any body
attend this fashionable exchange in all
manner of equipages, in numbers varying
from 500 to 1000, and they are not excelled
in stj'le or richness by any city but Paris
in the world. Around the music the car-
riages all congregate ; gentlemen descend
and visit their lady friends, and talk, gos-
sip, and flirt, or promenade along the riv-
er's bank, where seats and shady groves are
in abundance to supply the wants of soli-
taires and lovers. The Cascine is arranged
as the Avenue de 1'Imperatrice, Paris
carriages, horsemen, and pedestrians have
each their separate avenues. Fashionable
society of Florence cares not where you live,
what you eat, or what you wear, so long as
you make your appearance at the Opera,
and drive your turn-out on the Cascine
both of which are cheap enough. For $120
per month you can hire a splendid turn*
out, two horses, coachman, and footman,
an open carriage for Cascine driving, and
a close carriage for the Opera. Your box
at the Opera, holding four to eight per-
sons, will cost $4 to $5 a night.
One of the most interes-ting dwellings
in Florence is the house of Michael Ange-
lo, Palazzo Buonarotti; open to visitors on
Thursdays : the statue of Buonarotti, his
manuscripts, sword, canes, and a portrait
of himself. In the chapel is a small figure
of Christ by Benvenuto Cellini, and many
other relics, which will undoubtedly inter-
est the traveler. Michael Angelo Bin nn-
rotti, the illustrious Italian painter, fculp-
tor, and architect, was born in 1-174, Mid
died at Rome in 1564. He has the name
of the greatest designer that ever lived.
FLORENCE.
[ITALY.]
FLORENCE.
Being asked why he did not marry, he an-
swered, " Painting is my \vife,and my works
are my children." The most celebrated
of all liis works is his " Last Judgment,"
painted for Paul III. In architecture he
surpassed all the moderns. St. Peter's at
Koine, the Capitol, and his own house are
proofs of his ability. He was also an ex-
cellent poet. The walls of his dining-room
contain portraits of many of the most cele-
brated men of Tuscany ; among them you
recognize Dante, Petrarch, Boccaccio, and
Savonarola.
Palazzo Riccardi, erected by Cosimo de'
Medici in 1430. Charles VIII. of France,
Leo IX., and the Emperor Charles V. have
lodged here. It remained the property of
the Medici until 1659, when it was pur-
chased by Marquis Gabriele Riccardi. The
grand gallery is splendid. In the chapel
are some beautiful frescoes, retaining to a
great extent their original beauty.
The Biblioteca Riccardi, open daily from
9 to 2, has about 30,000 printed volumes
and 3500 MSS.
Edward Goodban,9 Via Tornabuoni.is the
principal English bookseller. He is agent
for Harper's Hand-books, which he sells at
the publishers' prices. Good photographs.
The traveler should drive over the Viale
dei Colli immediately on arriving in Flor-
ence, previous to seeing the city in detail.
This is a beautiful new promenade, nearly
three miles in extent, embracing lovely
views of the city.
Passing through the Porta Komana, and
ascending a fine road, lined with cypress,
nearly a mile, we arrive at the Poggio Im-
periak, a palace of the late grand -duke.
It is said to contain 700 rooms ; about one
half would come nearer the number. A
short distance farther we arrive at Galileo's
Tower, near which he entertained Milton
on the latter's visit to Florence after he
became blind and was forgotten by his
former patrons, the Medic-i.
There are numerous tine excursions in
the vicinity : Monte Oliveto, which com-
mands a benutiftil prospect ; also Hello
Squardo, which is reached by passing
through the Porta. Homana.
An excursion should be made to the cel-
ebrated monastery of Vallombrosa. Rail-
way to Pontassiece in 50 minutes ; thence
by carriage to Peliif/o, 5 fr., and mule to
Vallombrosa, 5 fr. The monastery is situ-
ated 3000 feet above the level of the sea ;
it was founded by Giovanni Gualberto in
1050, and is now occupied by a school of
forestry. There is a small inn near.
While at Florence do not omit to visit
the ancient town offiesole, old when Rome
was in its infancy, to reach which you can
start from the Porta San Gallo or from the
Porta a Pint! ; the latter is preferable as
regards the road, bi.t by the former you
pass several noted villas: the principal is
one in which Cosimo I. died, and a favorite
residence of Lorenzo de' Medici. We also
pass, among other handsome villas, that of
Signer Mario, the celebrated singer. The
road from the convent of San Domenico to
Fiesole, one mile and a half, was built at
837
FLORENCE.
[ITALY.]
FLORENCE.
the expense of the ancient city not by
issuing shares, but by issuing patents of
nobility ; and as three hundred dollars will
buy the title, coat-of-arms, and seal, the
city has done a fair business. They will
even hunt up your genealogy in case you
should not have one. Several Englishmen
have invested, and numerous Americans.
In the days of Tuscany's grand -dukes,
when none but nobles were received at ;
court, the stock paid, it is said, some divi- i
dend ; at present it is below par.
Cabs. Per course, 80 c. inside the city ; j
first half-hour, 1 fr. 30 c. ; each additional
half-hour, 70 c. ; outside the city, the first !
half-hour, 2 fr. ; each additional half-hour,
Ifr.
For carriages \i\ the day, arrange the i
price with the hotel proprietor.
Bankers. Messrs. Maquay, Hooker, $
Co., Via Tornabuoni, give the highest rates
of exchange on gold or bank-notes, as also
on letters of credit or circular notes men-
tioning the firm or not.
Mosaics. By far the best house in
Florence for this favorite and ever-beauti-
ful work is that of Mr. II. Bosi, well known
throughout England and America, and now
for many years furnisher to all the courts
of Europe. His establishment, at 1 Piazza
Santa Trinita, corner of Via Tornabuoni,
is well worth a visit. Every article is of
the finest description, and marked in in-
variable figures.
Nouveautes, Modes, etc. ' ' A la Ville de
Lyon," 2 Piazza San Gaetano, is the first
house in Florence for the above. French
dressmakers and milliners are employed,
and the best materials used in the latest
fashions.
Restaurant. The best, and one of the
most noted in Italy, is the Restaurant Do-
ney et Neveux, 16 Via Tornabuoni, where,
in addition to the best French cuisine, ex-
cellent wines, and good attendance, a la
carte, a table d'hote is served. No connec-
tion with Cafe Doney, next door.
Florence to Rome. Time, 7 h. 35 m. ;
fare, first class, 34 fr. 50 c. ; second class,
23 fr. 70 c.
Florence to Paris. Time, 33 h. 49 in. ;
fare, first class, 145 fr. GO c. ; second class,
113 fr. 75 c.
Florence to Turin. Time, 11 h. 25 m. ;
fare, first class, 52 fr. 10 c. ; second class,
36 fr. 95 c.
Florence to Bologna. Time, 5 h. 24 m. ;
fare, first class, 13 fr. 80 c. ; second class,
11 fr. 20 c.
Rome can be reached by three different
routes :
1. (The most direct route.) Via Arez-
zo, Perugia, Foligno, Spello, Spoleto, and
Terni.
Express train leaves Florence at 8.30
A.M., and arrives at Rome at 4.32 P.M.,
in 8 hours ; fare, first class, 34 fr. 50 c. ;
second class, 23 fr. 70 c.
2. Via Empoli, Pisa, Leghorn, Grosseto,
and Civita Vecchia.
Express train leaves Florence at 9.15
A.M., and arrives at Rome at 9 P.M., in
11 h. 45 m.
For description of towns on this route,
see Index.
3. Via Empoli, Siena, Orvieto, and Ba-
schi.
838
ROUTE No. 218.
Florence to Rome, via Arezzo, Perugia,
Foligno, Spello, and Terni. Time, 7 h. 35 m. ;
fare, first class (express), 34 fr. 50 c. ; sec-
ond class, 23 fr. 70 c. (This is the most
AKKZZO.
direct route, and the one usually taken by
travelers.)
Supposing the traveler is starting from
Florence via Arezzo and Perugia, in 1 h.
l-l in. Montevanchi is passed, a town of
10,000 inhabitants, in the vicinity of which
remains of the elephant, hippopotamus, and
mastodon have been discovered : a collec-
tion of the fossil remains of these, and oth-
er animals extinct in Italy, may be seen in
the museum of the town. In 2 h. 45 m.
Arezzo is reached. This town, containing
10,000 inhabitants, is situated in a beauti-
ful and fertile district, the Arretium of the
Koznans. Hotels, Victoria and Inghilterra.
Arezzo is one of the 12 confederate cit-
ies of ancient Etruria, and is rich in histor-
ical associations. It was the birthplace
of main- celebrities in literature and art.
Here Petrarch was born, July 20, 1304, his
parents having been expelled from Flor-
ence for political intrigues. The house in
which he was born is shown in the Via dell'
Orto. Here also Mecaenas, the friend of
Augustus, of Virgil, and of Horace, was
born. Vasari, Pietro Benvenuti, and Leon-
ardo Aretino were also natives of this town.
The principal object of attraction is the
loggie of Vasari, which is considered the
masterpiece of that famous architect : it is
situated on the Piazza Grande. The Duomo
in the upper town is a remarkable speci-
men of Italian Gothic architecture of the
thirteenth century : its principal attrac-
tions are its stained windows, whicli date
from the fourteenth century, and repre-
sent scenes in the life of the famous and
warlike. Bishop Tarlati di Pietramala, who
distinguished himself as a conqueror, and
who afterward crowned the Emperor Louis
in Milan. His tomb, and that of Pope
Gregory X., are the prominent objects of
interest in the church. The paintings of
the Martyrdom ofSt.Donato by Benvenuti,
also his Judith and Holofernes, are consid-
ered line works of art. Here also may In-
seen a masterpiece of Sabatelli called the
Abigail. In the square of the Cathedral is
a marble statue of Ferdinand di Medici by
Giovanni da Bologna. The Church of St.
Maria dell i Pieve was erected on tin- site
of a temple of Bacchus at the commence-
ment of the ninth century. Tim columns
of the facade are distributed in a very pe-
culiar manner. Over the high-altar is a
beautiful picture of St. George by Vasari ;
[ITALY.] I'EHKUA.
also an altar-piece, in sections, by Pietro
Laurati. The Church, of San Francesco, in
the Via Cavour, contains some very good
frescoes. There are several other church-
es, but none of much importance.
The. Mn.ifiim, which i.s situated on the
first floor of the edifice known as the Fra-
ternita della -Misericordia, and which con-
tains fossils, vases, bronzes, and mediaeval
seals, is worth visiting. There is also a
very good library on the first floor.
Three hours from Florence, Cortona, a
small town in the tine valley of Chiana,
is reached. There is but little to induce
the traveler to stop here, either in " sights"
or accommodation. It is noted principally
as being one of the 12 confederate towns of
Etruria. There is the usual cathedral and
other churches. In the Museum is a fair
collection of Etruscan antiquities. From
the church and monastery of St. Margheri-
ta a beautiful view may be obtained of the
Lake Trasimene, the ancient Lacus Trasi-
menus, noted for the sanguinary and mem-
orable battle fought on its banks between
the Carthaginians under Hannibal and tho
Romans under the Consul C. Flaminius in
the year 217 B.C., in which the latter wer
defeated with fearful slaughter, although
they fought desperately, and while an
earthquake was taking place
"Like to a forest filled by mountain winds.
And such the storm of battle on this day,
And such the frenzy whose convulsions
blinds
To all save carnage, that beneath the fray
An earthquake rolled nnheedingly away !
"None felt stern Nature rocking at his feet,
And gaping forth a grave for those who
lay
T'pon their bucklers for a winding-sheet:
Such is the absorbing hate when warring
nations meet."
From the River Gualandro two small
streams fall into the lake, one of which is
called Sanguinetto, in recollection of the
streams of blood which flowed into tho
lake. There are three small islands in the
lake, one of which, Isola Maggiore, con-
tains a convent.
I'i ft/gin, the next place of importance, is
finely situated above the valley of the Ti-
ber. This was another of the twelve Etrus-
can confederate cities which fell into the
hands of the Romans. It contains a pop-
ulation of 19,500 souls. Hotels, / fella Potta,
Tnisimerv), and Grand Hotel tie, Perugia.
839
FEKUGIA.
[ITALY.]
PERUGIA.
Perugia was reduced to starvation by the
Emperor Augustus in his war with Mark
Antony, but was burnt to ashes by the ad-
herents of the latter, to prevent it from fall-
ing into the hands of the Roman Empire ;
it was rebuilt by Augustus as a Roman col-
on}', but was again destroyed in the sixth
century by the Goth Totila, after a siege
of seven years. It was again captured by
Braccio da Montone in 1416. After his
death the city came into possession of the
Pope, and was governed in his interest by
the Baglioni family, who in time rebelled,
but it was finally conquered by Paul III.,
since which time it has mostly remained
under the authority of the popes. During
different centuries the plague committed
fearful ravages among its population, that
of 1348 destroying 100,000 alone.
The Cathedral of St. Lorenzo, situated at
the end of the Corso, was finished (that is,
the interior : the outside of Italian church-
es seldom are finished) about the close of
the fifteenth century. One of the chapels
on the right aisle contains a Descent from
the Cross, the masterpiece of Baroccio. It
had the honor of being conveyed to Paris
in 1797, but was returned in 1815. Near
the high altar is a sarcophagus containing
the remains of the popes Innocent II., Ur-
ban IV., and Martin IV. Notice the beau-
tiful altar-piece by Signorelli.
Directly opposite the Cathedral, in the
Palazzo Conestabile. may be seen a small
Madonni by Raphael, a St. Rosalia by Sas-
soferrato, and several frescoes by Perugino.
A road from the rear of the Cathedral
leads to the Arco di Auyusto, the ancient
gateway, with the inscription Augusta Pe-
rusia. The foundations and the remains
of the wall are of the Etruscan period. A
short distance from the Arco, to the left, is
the University Building, where there is a
Picture Gallery, a Museum of Etruscan and
Roman antiquities, a Scientific Collection,
and Botanic Garden. The pictures are
mostly from suppressed churches and mon-
asteries. There are a great number of
Perugino's works here, a Madonna by Ra-
phael, and a Holy Family drawn by the
same artist.
The keys of the chapel in St. Severo may
be had at the University to see Raphael's
first frescoes, now much damaged.
After having visited the Piazza del So-
pramuro and the Fortezxa, descend to the
840
suburb and Church of San Domenico, a
church of the fourteenth century, rebuilt
in the seventeenth : the choir and a Goth-
ic window of the old edifice alone remain.
Notice, in the left transept, a monument
erected to Pope Benedict XI., who was
poisoned by eating figs at the suggestion
of Philip IV.
The Church ofSt.Pietro de Casinensi will
well repay a visit. It contains numerous
pictures by Perugino, a Holy Family by
Purmeggianino, a Jesus and John by Ra-
phael, said to be a copy from Perugino.
Notice the choir-stalls carved by Stefimo
da Bergamo, from designs by Raphael.
There are numerous other churches of more
or less importance, amounting to over one
hundred in number. One of the most in-
teresting objects of attention in Perugia is
the Necropolis, discovered in 1840. The
principal tomb, called Grotta di Volunni,
will well repay a visit. It is about three
miles distant from the town, and consists of
ten chambers cut out of the tuffstone of
the hill ; they are all in a good state of
preservation. The inscriptions are in Lat-
in and Etruscan. There are several pri-
vate collections of pictures and antiquities
in Perugia that the valet- de- place will
point out.
Some eight miles from Perugia we pass
the boundary of Etruria, here crossing the
Tiber. The view from this spot is ex-
tremely beautiful in every direction.
At the Assisi Railway Station convey-
ances will be found to drive to the town.
The principal object of attraction here is
the Monastery of the Franciscans, founded
by St. Francis, who was born in Assisi in
1182 : he was the originator, and died in
1226, and was canonized by Gregory IX.
Ladies are not admitted. There are two
churches which the monastery surrounds
boldly erected against the solid rock of the
hill, much resembling in appearance the
Convent of Mar Saba, on the way from
Jerusalem to the Dead Sea. The lower
church is dark, gloomy, and morose, and
immediately over this is the other, vast,
light, and airy, presenting a view to the
outside beholder seldom surpassed in any
country. Travelers who are compelled to
spend the night without proceeding on their
journey, had better, if going to Rome, pro-
ceed by carriage to Foligno, where there is
a comfortable inn (there is none at Assisi);
FOLIGXO.
[ITALY.]
BOROHETTO.
or, if coming from Rome, they had better
make their arrangements at Foligno, but
visit the convent by all means.
After passing Spello, a small town of
3000 inhabitants, we arrive at Foliyno, an
episcopal residence of 13,01)0 inhabitant-.
Hotel I'ostu, the best. The town is situ-
ated in the midst of the fertile district, but
has suffered considerable from three or four
earthquakes during the present century.
There is little to detain the traveler here.
We next pass the small town of Trevi, the
ancient Trebia.
In the Church of the Madonna della Le-
grime may be seen the finest frescoes of
Perugino. Outside the gate the Church
of St. Martino may be found, containing
some very fine pictures. From Trevi to
S pi ilet o, the next station, would well repay
a drive. The train, however, does not gen-
erally stop at Trevi. The distance is only
ten miles, through a beautiful and richly
cultivated country. Passing the River
Clitumnus, whose source is near the small
village Le Vene, may be seen the Temple,
usually mentioned as that of the Clitumnus
spoken of by Pliny. It is now used as a
church, and must always have l>een a
Christian edifice, as the emblems, the vine
and cross, testifv.
Spoleto, the ancient Spoletium of the Ro-
mans, contains 11,000 inhabitants. Inns,
Posta and Albergo Xuovo.
The town is historically noted for hav-
ing repelled the attack of Hannibal's army
after its victory at Trasimenc Lake. It
suffered much during the civil wars of j
Sulla and Marius, also during the inva.-inn
of the Goths after the fall of the Western
Kmpiro. It was incorporated in tin S
of the Church by Innocent III. Its castle,
originally built by Thcodoric the Great,
fell into the hands of the Piedmontese aft-
er a most gallant resistance by its com-
mander. Major O'Reilly, an Iri-hinan.
The Cathedral of Saint Maria Asam/di.
erected originally in the seventh century,
but several times restored. Notice above
the entrance a large mosaic of Christ, with
Mary and John, by Salsernu*. In the
choir are several frescoes by Fra Filippo
Tippi. The winter choir is ornamented by
carvin_-s by Bramante and painting 1 \-
La Spagna. Notice at the entrance to the
chapel the tomb of a celebrated painter
who died here by poison administered by |
the family of a noble lady whose affections
lie had gained, and whom he had abducted
from her convent.
There arc numerous other churches, but
none of any special importance.
A beautiful view of the surrounding
country may be had from the Fortress, now
a prison, or from Monte Luco.
There are several Roman remains in
Spoleto not of much importance.
Terni. Hotels, Tre Colonne and Europa.
This town is noted principally for being the
birthplace of the historian Tacitus, also of
the emperors Tacitus and Florianus. The.
Roman Amphitheatre is the principal ob-
ject of attraction in the town, but the Falls
of Tfrni, at a distance of five miles, is the
great attraction of the place. Carriages
or donkeys may be employed at the hotels,
but be certain you make a bargain for the
same, else you will be swindled. Take
plenty of sous, as beggars arc as bad as at
Pompeii, the worst in Italy. The Falls of
Terni, with the Falls of Tivoli, are the two
finest artificial falls in the world. There
are three series of falls, in all about 600 feet
in height, often erroneous!}' stated at 800.
The traveler should first visit the Upper
Falls, and then descend to the road, where
his carriage should meet him. The dis-
tance from Terni to Narni is 8 miles.
Xarni is situated on an elevated rock on
the Nera, where that river forces its way
through a narrow ravine down to the Ti-
ber. It contains about 8500 inhabitants.
and is principally known as the birthplace
of the Emperor Ncrva. Krasmus of Narni,
and Pope John XIII.
The Cathedral was erected in the ir.th
century, and is a fair specimen of the archi-
tecture of that period. The ^^(>nastery con-
tains the Coronation of the Virgin, by La
Sp.-iL'na, long thought to be by Raphael.
A short distance from Narni the train
passes the Bridge of A vyustus, a fine speci-
men of Roman architecture. It was built
for the Via Flaminia from Rome to Bevagna.
The arch on the left bank is 60 feet high.
Ortf, formerly the frontier of the Papal
States before the unity of Italy, is finely
situated on a high bank of the Tiber, but
contains no objects of interest.
Borghetto, the last stopping-place of the
express train, and 1 h. 25 m. from Rome.
The town is commanded by a fine ruined
castle. No sights of importance.
841
LEGHORN.
Rome. See Index.
[ITALY.]
CIVITA VECCHIA.
ROUTE No. 219.
Florence to Home, via Pisa, Cecina, Follo-
nica, Grosselo, Orbilello, and Civitti Vecchia.
Time, 11 h. 15 m. ; fare, first class, 45 fr.
25 c. ; second class, 32 fr. 55 c. (As this
route is longer, as expensive, with less to be
seen than that by Foligno, it is not to be
preferred.) Time to Leghorn, 2 h. 45 m.
Empoli. See Route No. 220.
Leghorn, a city and seaport, is the prin-
cipal emporium of Italy in the late grand-
duchy of Tuscany. It has a population of
97,000. Principal hotel, and the only good
one in the city is the Grand, in a large
garden, and with a beautiful view of the
sea. Leghorn (in French Livourne, in
Italian Livorno) ranks as a sea-port with
Marseilles, Naples, Genoa, and Smyrna.
It is a neat, clean, and well-built city, and
shows much activity among its inhabitants.
It owes its eminence and prosperity main-
ly to the Medici family. Leghorn has been
greatly enlarged within a few years past
by leveling the old fortifications, and in-
cluding the suburbs within the walls. It
has a large coral fishery, and its inhabit-
ants are mostly engaged in the manufac-
ture of woolen caps, straw hats, ylass. pa-
per, starch, soap, cream of tartar, etc. The
public and private buildings do not re-
quire particular notice; they are useful,
but not ornamental. The principal ones
are the two Greek churches, and those of
other denominations, a large synagogue
(next in size to that of Amsterdam), three
hospitals, female charity-school of St. Pe-
ter and St. Paul, a mosque, theatre, etc. ;
it has also an old castle constructed by
Ferdinand I., a work-house, savings' bank,
large public school containing 350 pupils,
schools of navigation, architecture, paint-
ing, academy of sciences, letters, and arts,
with a library of 6000 volumes.
One of the principal works of art in the
city is the fine marble statue of Ferdinand
I. supported by four kneeling figures in
bronze. The cemeteries contain some good
specimens of sculpture. In the Campo
Ingkse are interred the remains of Smol-
lett, and several other distinguished En-
glishmen. Upon a hill near the city is
the monastery of Monte Aero, in which is
a celebrated picture of the Virgin, said to
have been idolized by the people of Leg-
812
horn for 500 years. The view from the
monastery is very fine.
Leghorn is a favorite sea-bathing place
for many of the inhabitants of Tuscany.
The season is June, July, and August.
There are warm baths in the vicinity of
. Marco.
The railway has recently been finished
from Leghorn to Home, via Cecina, Folfon-
ic i, Gross to, Orbitello, and Ciiita I'ccchia.
The opening of this road obviates the ne-
cessity of taking a steamer to Civita Vec-
chia, and the tedious and annoying process
of embarking and disembarking.
The Maremma railroad, which takes its
name from the district through which it
passes, follows nearly the route of the an-
cient Via Aurelia built by JKmilius Scau-
rus. The towns through which it passes
are not so important, neither is the scenery
so picturesque, as the route from Florence
via Arezzo, Perugia, and Foligno ; still it
would be better to go one way and return
the other. The train usually leaves Leg-
horn about noon. It would be better to
avoid this route during the summer months
that is, July, August, and September
as during this period the malaria exists to
such a degree that nearly all the inhabit-
ants of the towns on the line leave for the
mountains.
The Maremma district during the Etrus-
can period was one of the most highly cul-
tivated districts in Italy; when agricul-
ture declined and the coast became pasture
lands, its waters soon became stagnant and
poisonous. The present government, how-
ever, is doing much to remedy the evil.
The principal towns on the route are Ce-
cina (nothing of interest), Follonica, con-
taining numerous smelting-foundries, Gros-
selo, formerly the capital of the Maremma,
and Orbitello, only noted for its vicinity to
the Cosae of Virgil, about four miles from
the town. For Civita Vecchia, see Index.
Civita Vecchia, a town of Etruscan ori-
gin, and in the times of Etruscan prosperi-
ty the principal sea-port and naval power
of Central Italy, is now only a stopping-
place on the road to Rome. It contains no
monuments of note except the mole and
breakwater forming the port, which were
the work of Hadrian. Eight miles north
is Corneto, built near the site of the an-
cient Tarquinia, from which it was colo-
nized. Here may be seen some exceed^
EMPOLI.
[ITALY.]
SIENA.
ingly interesting Etruscan tombs. The !
railway from Civita Vecchia to Home fol-
lows the coast, passing the site of Pyrgi.
a jiowerful Etru>can maritime town (non-
Santa Severa) only a few miles from Civi-
ta Vecchia ; and half way to Rome it pass-
es Cer\vtri i^the ancient Care), a town
noted as the place of refuge of the vestal
virgins who escaped from Home when it
was taken by the Gauls. At Palo the road
leaves the coast, and soon strikes the val-
ley of the Tiber, which it follows to Rome,
a distance of 45 miles.
Home. See Index.
ROUTE Xo. 220.
Florence to Rome, via Empoli, Siena, Or-
vieto, and Viterbo. Time, 10 hours; fare,
first class, 38 fr. 65 c. ; second class, 27 fr. I
30 c.
Florence to Siena. Time, 3 h. 30 m. ;
fare, first class. 10 fr. 15 c.
Empo'.i, a small town in the midst of a
well -cultivated district, contains nothing
of importance.
Certaldo station. The town on the left
was the birthplace of the Florentine poet
Hoccuccio. His tomb was formerly in the
church of .S. Mickek e Giacomn, on which
stood his statue with a copy of the "De-
cameron" in his hand. His house was re-
stored some fifty years ago.
Poggibonsi station. [About 3J hours to
the west (carriage 16 fr.) is the town of
Volterra (hotel, Nazionale), containing 6500
inhabitants. The town and its relics are
essentially Etruscan. It was one of the
twelve confederate cities of Etruria, but
afterward became a Roman municipium,
and was completely destroyed in the 10th
century. It was rebuilt under the first
Otho, became a free town in the Middle
Ages, and its strong position made it the
scene of continual strife between the re-
publics of Florence, Pisa, and Siena ; but it
gradually fell under the sway of Florence,
from which time its history has been Flor-
entine. Its wails were once over six
miles in circumference, portions of them
may be seen near the Porta Sun Francesco.
They were forty feet in height and fourteen
thick.
Outside the Porta di Diana stood the
ancient Xecropvlis. Many of the curiosi-
ties in the Museum were found here.
The Miueo Civico, in the Palazzo Publico,
contains in ten rooms a vast collection of
statues, bronzes, coins, and numerous other
specimens of Etruscan art, dating from sev-
eral centuries before the Christian era.
In the Sa'n de In Mngistrutiora is a li-
brary of 16,000 volumes.
The Cathedral was consecrated in the
12th century, but was enlarged and re-
stored by Xicolo Pisuno in 1254, and again
embellished in the 16th century. Its in-
terior sculpture and decorations are very
fine. The churches otSS. Francesco, Lino,
and Giovanni contain frescoes, sculpture,
and monuments.
The Citadel is now used as a house of
correction. The Palazzo Inghirami con-
tains a collection of pictures, among which
is a portrait by Raphael.
In the Casa RicciartUi, Daniele da Vl-
terra, the celebrated pupil of Michael An-
gelo, was born in 1509. The house is still
in possession of the family.
The alabaster works of Volterra are
quite celebrated.
There is a diligence road from Volterra
to Siena ; distance 31 miles.
Eleven miles from Volterra are the cop-
per-mines of La Cam, which have been
worked for the last 400 years.]
Siena. Hotels, A Ibergo Reale, A quila
Nera,anAScala. Population, 24,000. The
seat of an archbishop and a university.
Its streets are narrow and the houses ill
built, but it contains a beautiful Cathedral.
There are numerous private palaces rich in
works of art. The principal public one is
the Palazzo Publico. In the 12th century
the town was of great importance, and con-
tained 200,000 inhabitants, and it is to-day
one of the most interesting cities in Italy
for the student of art of tho 14th, 15th, and
IGth centuries. The position of the town
is hi^h, and the climate healthy.
Siena was founded by the Gauls, but
converted into a Roman colony by Augus-
tus. In the 12th century it became a free
843
SIENA.
[ITALY.]
MONTE PULCIANO.
city, drove out its nobility, and united with
the Gbibelines from Florence, and gained
a great victory over the Guelphs at Monte
Aperto, near the city. For a long time
the citizens guarded well their liberties,
and the city became one of the first in the
peninsula in wealth and population. Dur-
ing the 16th century tyrants again usurp-
ed its rights, and through the wicked in-
fluence of one of its citizens, Pandolfo Pe-
trucci, the Medici of Florence gained com-
plete sovereignty over the city.
In the Piazza Vittore Emanuele, where
horse-fairs are held July 2 and August 15,
stands the Palazzo Publico, built after the
great plague in 1348, which destroyed
30,000 of the citizens. It is open daily
(fee 1 fr.), and contains many valuable
frescoes.
The Institute dette Belle Arti contains a
collection of pictures of the old Sienese
school. It is open gratis every day, ex-
cept holidays, from 9 to 3.
The Cathedral is situated on the highest
point in Siena; was commenced in 1059,
and consecrated in 1179. It was built on
the site of a former temple of Minerva.
The present church is only the transept of
a much larger design, which was never
completed. The facade is from designs
by Xicolo Pisano, and is a combination of
red, white, and black marbles in the point-
ed and circular styles, with numerous or-
naments and sculptures. The interior con-
tains clustered columns, with capitals orna-
mented with foliage and figures. Above
the arches in the nave are busts of popes
down to Alexander III. Pope Zacharias
has replaced that of Pope Joan. The pave-
ment is inlaid, representing scenes from
the New Testament. The roof is painted
blue, and studded with gold stars. The
choir contains some fine sculpture by
Riccio. The tabernacle is in bronze by
Lorenzo, da Pietro, and the pulpit of white
marble by Nicolo Pisano.
In the chapel of St. John there is a fine
figure of that saint by Donatella. The chap-
el of S. Ansano contains a picture of the
Madonna and Child, painted in 1311. The
painted-glass windows are very fine, and
some of them date from the middle of the
16th century.
The Library is adorned with ten beauti-
ful frescoes by Bernardino de Betlo, a fel-
low-pupil of Raphael under Perugino, and
844
it is believed that Raphael assisted in their
design.
There are several monuments by Michael
Angela. The altar dedicated to the Picco-
lomini family (Pope Pius II.), etc.
Under the choir of the Duomo is the
church of St. John, formerly the Baptistery.
The font contains some fine sculptures.
Opera del Duomo possesses some fine
sculptures and frescoes.
Opposite the Cathedral is the hospital of
Pellenrinajo, whose church contains some
fine frescoes by Domenico Bartoli.
There are numerous other churches de-
serving of notice, if the traveler intends
remaining some days ; notable those ofSS.
Domenico, Agostino, Francesco, Martina,
and Spiritu.
The palaces of Siena are not numerous,
nor do they contain collections of art.
They are only interesting in regard to
their architecture.
The Palazzo Picco'omini contains the
archives of Siena, dating from 736, over
fifty thousand in number. The documents
are written on parchment and exhibited
under glass cases. This is one of the
most interesting and valuable collections
known.
Palazzo del Magmfico, built for the ty-
rant Petrucci, is probably the finest in
Siena.
Palazzo Buonsiynori, in the Gothic style,
is also very grand.
The Acadrmia degli Tntronati contains a
library of 40,000 volumes and 5000 MSS.,
also a copy of the Greek Gospels, at one
time in the imperial palace at Constanti-
nople, written in the 9th century.
A visit should be paid to the three ora-
tories in the house of Kt. Catharine of
Siena, daughter of a dyer, who exerted
such influence over Pope Gregory XI. that
he transferred again the papal court from
Avignon to Rome. She became a nun at
the age of eight, and was noted for the
visions and inspirations vouchsafed her.
The house is decorated with representa-
tions of miraculous events in her life.
At station Asriano there is a branch lino
leading to Grosscto. See Route No. 219.
Monte Pulci'tno, six miles from the sta-
tion of the same nan;c, is a handsome town
in a fine position, containing 2000 inhabit-
ants.
Ten miles from Pulciano is the town
CHIUSI.
[ITALY.]
FOSSOMBBOSB.
of Pienza, the birthplace of Pius II. and
III.
Chiusi (hotel, Leon (fOro), the ancient
Clusium of the Etruscans, and one of their
twelve capitals. It contains 3200 inhabit-
ants.
The Museo Etrusco contains a fine col-
lection of vases, bronzes, urns, and other
relics, mostly in terra-cotta, found in the
neighborhood ; and visits may still be made
to Etruscan tombs if furnished with tickets
issued at the Municipio.
A ride of an hour from Chiusi brings
one to the small town of Cetona, containing
a collection of antiquities.
Orvifto. Hotels, Belle Arti and Agostino
Vtilenlini. This town is the Urbibentum
of the Romans, and is now an episcopal res-
idence, situated on a high rock. During
the Middle Ages it was the stronghold of
the Guelphs.
The Cathedral is a splendid specimen of
Italian Gothic. Its facade is built in alter-
nate courses of black and white marble,
decorated with mosaic and sculpture. The
interior, which is built in the form of a
Latin cross, contains a large collection of
sculptures and frescoes of the 16th century.
It is constructed of black basalt and yel-
low limestone, with pointed windows ; the
upper part being filled with stained glass.
The nave is separated from the aisles by
six arches. The columns are adorned
with capitals of various orders of archi-
tecture, above which is a gallery orna-
mented with rich carvings. The different
frescoes throughout the church were ex-
ecuted by the different masters of the pe-
riod.
The Opera del Duomo, opposite the Ca-
thedral, contains designs on parchment for
the facade and other parts of the church
never executed, or abandoned.
S. Domenico and S. Giovenale contain
some paintings and monuments.
Near the old fortress is the interesting
fountain of II Pozzo di S. Patrizio, hewn
partly out of the solid rock. A beautiful
riew of the valley of the Tiber is obtained
from it. Fee, 1 franc.
From Orvieto to Rome the line follows
the course of the Tiber. At Orte it falls
in with the line from Foligno to Rome.
See Route No. 218.
Rome. See Index.
VOL. II. O
ROUTE No. 221.
Fano to Perugia, via Fossombrone, Urbino,
and Gubbio. Time, 15 h. 45 m. ; fare, first
class, 42 fr. 35 c.
From Fano to Perugia, 10 hours by dili-
gence ; from Perugia to Rome, 5 h. 45 m.
(express).
(Nothing special in this route to take
the tra%-eler out of the beaten track.)
Fossombrone (hotel, Poslti') contains 4600
inhabitants. Its situation is rather pictur-
esque, at the bottom of a valley command-
ed by ruins of an ancient castle. It pos-
sesses several silk factories. Proceeding
through the valley the mountain ofPietra-
l/if'i is passed. Here, according to tradi-
tion, the celebrated battle between the
Carthaginians and Romans was fought,
when Hasdrubal, brother of Hannibal, at
j the head of 60,000 men, was signally de-
i feated by Consuls Claudius Nero and Liv-
j ius Salinator. The valley contracts now,
| so as to leave room for the river alone.
The traveler is driven through the cele-
brated Furlo Pass, a tunnel seventeen feet
wide, excavated by the order of the Em-
peror I'espasian, as the inscription records.
We next pass the small town of Schiegga,
j near which stand the ruins of the Temple
of Jupiter Apenninus. Several antiquities
have been discovered in the vicinity. At
this point the roads divide. The old Via
Flaminia descends to Foligno, and the
route to Gubbio and Perugia keeps to the
right.
Gubbio, the ancient Iguvium (hotel,
Spernichui), is situated at the base of Monte
Calvo, entirely surrounded by mountains.
It contains 6200 inhabitants. There are
no galleries nor special collections in th
town. The churches of S. Maria Novella,
S. Pietro, and the Cathedral contain some
oil-paintings and frescoes, as well as the
Palazzo del Comune and Ductile. There
are some good pictures and antiquities hi
the Palazzo Rangiatri-Brancaleone. Out-
845
PEKCGIA. [ITALY.]
side the town are the ruins of an ancient
theatre, among which were found the cele-
brated Eugubian Tables, now to be seen in
the Palazzo Municipale. They are in
bronze, and bear inscriptions in the Urn-
brian and Latin characters. They date
from nearly 200 years before the Christian
era.
The route to Perugia is now through a
barren and uninteresting district.
Perugia. See Route No. 216.
ROME.
Rome, the most celebrated of European
cities, famous in both ancient and modern
history formerly for being the capital of
the most powerful nation of antiquity, and
afterwards the ecclesiastical capital of Chris-
846
ROME.
tendotn and the residence of the Pope, and
since 1871 the capital of United Italy and
the residenceof the king is situated on both
banks of the Tiber, about 16 miles from its
mouth. Population in 1876, 246,100.
The principal hotels are, the Quirinal,
Continental, Costanzi, de la Minerva, d'Jtalie.
Hottl Quirinal, an elegant, newly-erected
house, situated in the largest street of Rome,
the Via Nazionale, on a site expressly se-
lected with a view to salubrity ; every mod-
ern comfort, including lift, etc., and man-
aged by Mr. Baur, also proprietor of the
Baur au Lac in Zurich.
Hotel Continental, a magnificent new
house just opposite the station, in a most
healthy position. Lift, furnaces, etc. ; well
managed by Mr. Lugani. also proprietor of
the Hotel d 1 Allemagne.
Hotel Costanzi, a magnificent first-class
hotel of great size, situated in the highest
and healthiest part of Rome ; 350 rooms
and salons, billiard-room, lift, large gar-
den; ably managed by the proprietors,
Messrs. Cremonesi & Martinelli. The for-
mer proprietor of this house, Signor Cos-
tanzi, in the fall of 1880 opened an elegant
new theatre not far from the hotel.
Hotel de la Minerva, a fine large house
of 250 rooms, situated in the healthiest po-
sition, close to the Pantheon and the end
of the Corso, and known throughout Italy
for its cuisine and very moderate charges.
Every comfort and convenience, lift, etc. ;
well managed by its amiable proprietor,
Mr. Sauve.
Hotel <F Italic, a first-class house, in the
best portion of the city, much patronized
by English and Americans, and well con-
ducted by the proprietor, Mr. A. Valenti.
Restaurants. The best are Nazzari, in
the Piazza di Spagna ( Rome would not
be Rome without Nazzari), and Spillmann
freres, Via Condotti, No. 10, quite near
the former. There is also the elder Spill-
mann. in the s;imo street, No. 13.
Cafes are Di Roma, in the Corso, and
Cafe Cesano, No. 20, Via Colonna.
Cabs, per course, 80 c. ; at night, 1 fr.
40 c., 1 or 2 persons. Two-horse carriages,
1 or 4 persons, 1 fr. 50 c. day ; 1 fr. 70 c.
night ; each trunk 50 c. extra. They all
carry a tariff of their charges. To go out-
side the gates a bargain must be made, and
for carriages to make distant excursions a
written contract had better be drawn up.
R
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SO /hi .fii
ROME.
[ITALY.]
ROME.
Days and Hours for Visiting the different
PalttCetf li/las, and Galii -rii*.
AViiini V'd'a, Pictures and Antiquities,
Tuesday (except in wet weather), from 10
to du.-k.
Boryhese Palace, Picture-gallery, Mon-
day. Wednesday, and Friday, 9 to 3.
~Borghese Villa, Garden, daily, except
Monday ; Statues in the Casino, Satur-
day. 1 to 4.
Barberini Palace, Picture-gallery, daily,
except Sunday, 2 to 5.
C'apitoline Museum, Sunday and Thurs-
day free, fee 50 c. on other days, 12 to 3.
Colonna Palace, Picture-gallery, daily,
Sunday excepted, 11 to 3.
Corsini Palace, Picture-gallery, Monday,
Thursday, and Saturday, 9 to 3.
Doria Palace, Picture-gallery, Tuesday
and Friday, 10 to 2.
Farne-se Palace, Frescoes, Friday, 12 to 2.
Farnesina Vila, 1st and 15th of each
month, 10 to 3.
Forum Romanum, Sunday and Thurs-
day, from 9 till dusk.
Kircheriano Museo, Antiquities, 9 to 3.
Lateran, daily, 9 to 4.
St. Luca, Academy, daily, 9 to 3.
Lndovi-fi I 'il'a, ticket through consul.
.I/<r.s>7i<> Villf, by sending card to Pal-
ace Massimo.
Mi'ilic; Vi'lii, daily, except Saturday.
Palatine, Excavations, present visiting
card on Thursday and Sunday.
I'amjili Do/in \ "il'n, Monday and Friday,
only two-horse carriages admitted.
Quirinal Palace, now occupied by the
king, and seldom shown.
Rospigliosi Palace, Wednesday and Sat-
urday, 9 to 2.
Spada Pal-ace, Monday, Wednesday, and
Saturday, 10 to 3.
Vatican, Collection arl Library, daily,
except Sunday, with a permesso obtained
at your banker's or hotel proprietor's for a
fee. There are three kinds : one for the
Picture-gallery, Sixtine Chapel, and Ra-
phaefs Stanze and Logie, from 8 to 12 and
2 to 5. This permit can be renewed for a
small fee. and is good for five persons.
Another for the Mus?nm of $ta<uary, Mon-
day and Thursday, 8 to 11 ; also good for
five persons ; and a third for the Museum
of Statuary, Tuesday, Wednesday-, Friday,
and Saturday, 8 to 11 and 2 to 5, for live
persons. The Librarj- is open the same
days as the Mu.-etiin of Statuary, and re-
quires no special permit.
The entrance to the Museum of Statuary
is on the west side, the gateway under
Salla delta Biga, between the gardens of
the Vatican and Palace.
(By all means take either a courier or
valet-de-place the first or second time of
visiting the Vatican; its entrances and
passages are most intricate.)
Wolkonslcy Villa, Wednesday and Sat-
urday, all day, by permission obtained at
a banker's.
"I am in Rome! oft as the morning ray
Visits thp-p eye?, waking, at once I cry,
Whence this excess of joy? what has befallen
me?
And from within a thrilling voice replies,
Thou art In Rome ! A thousand busy thoughts
Hush on my mind, a thousand images,
And I spring up as girt to run a race.
Thou art in Koine I the city thut so long
Ki'igned absolute, the mistress of the world;
The mighty vision that the prophets saw
And trembled; that from nothing, from the
leut.
The lowliest village (what but here and there
A reed-roofed cabin by a river side),
Grew into every thing ; and year by year,
Patiently, fearlessly working her way
O'er brook and field, o'er continent and sea;
Not. like the merchant with his merchan-
di-i ,
Or traveler with staff and script, exploring.
But hand to hand, and foot to foot, through
hosts,
Through nations numberless, in battle array,
Each behind each, when the other fell,
Vp and in arms, at length subdued them nil.
Thou art in Rome! the city where the Cauls,
Entering at sunrise through her open Kates,
And, through her streets silent and desolate,
Marching to slay, thought they saw gods, not
men ;
The city that, by temperance, fortitude,
And love of glory, towered above the cloud?,
Then fell ; but, falling, kept the highest seat,
And in her loneliness, her pomp of woe,
Where now she dwells, withdrawn into the
wild,
Still o'er the mind maintains from age to age
Her empire undiminUhcd.
There, as though
Grandeur attracted grandeur, are beheld
All things that strike, ennoble from the
depths
Of Egypt, from the classic fields of Greece,
Her groves, her temples :ill tilings that in-
spire
Wonder, delight. Who would not say the
forms
Most iK-rfect, most divine, had, by consent,
l-'locki-d thither to abide eternally,
Within those silent chambers where they
dwell
In happy intercourse f"
847
ROME.
[ITALY.]
ROMK.
The origin of the eity of Rome is in-
volved in mystery. The generally con-
ceived idea is that it was founded 753 years
before the Christian era. It was at first
an asylum for the bandits of Latium. Its
first seven kings were Romulus, Numa,
Tullius Hostilius, Ancus Marcius, Tarquin
the Elder, Servius Tullius, and Tarquin
the Superb. During the reign of the fourth
king Rome commenced to assume con-
siderable importance. In the reign of the
last king, his tyranny became so oppressive
that the kings were expelled, and a re-
public founded, which last was governed
by two consuls. A dictatorship was es-
tablished in 498 B.C. ; a tribunate, 493
B.C. ; the decemvirate, 451 B.C. The con-
sulate was replaced in 444 B.C., and 264
B.C. the republic had become the greatest
power of the world.
In 29 B.C. the Senate declared Au-
gustus Emperor of Rome, which title ex-
isted down to Francis II., 1792, over
eighteen hundred years. Under Constan-
tine, 310-325, the Christian religion be-
came triumphant, and was declared the
imperial religion. About this time the
capital of the empire was transferred to
Constantinople. In 410 the city was com-
pletely sacked by Alaric, and in 445 by the
Vandals.
In 537 Rome withstood a long siege of
the Goths. When Totila, their king, en-
tered the city in 516, it was so completely
devastated that not over 1000 people were
found within its walls.
The Popes soon became so powerful in
Rome that Henry IV. laid siege to the
city three times, 1081, 1082, and 1083, and
finally drove out Gregory VII.
During the quarrels of Innocent II. and
Anacletus II. (1140), Arnaud de Brescia
established a Republic and Senate at
Rome, but the city refused to submit until
1149. Frederick II. marched on Rome in
1241, and drove out Gregory IX.
In 1281 the nobles became masters of
the city, and refused to receive the pope,
'Martin IV. ; and Clement V., to assure
himself of the protection of France, re-
moved the seat of the Holy See to Avignon
in 1347. Rome, taking advantage of the
absence of the Pope, established & republic,
of which Rienzi became Tribune. He
drove out the Roman barons who oppressed
the city, executed the bandits, and was
848
proclaimed Liberator and Dictator. The
following year he was obliged to take ref-
uge with the Emperor Charles IV. at
Prague, who delivered him to Pope Clem-
ent VI. He was condemned to death by
Clement at Avignon, but the Pope died
before the day of execution, in 1352. In-
nocent VI., to restore his own authority at
Rome, sent Rienzi there as senator. He
was received with enthusiasm, and again
placed at the head of affairs. He caused
to be beheaded the famous bandit Montreal,
and overran the whole of Italy with 20,000
men, but was massacred in an insurrec-
tion, October 8, 1354. Rienzi was bound to
Petrarch by the closest ties of friendship.
The popes returned to Rome in 1377.
Notwithstanding which the two factions,
Colo/mi or Ursini, domineered in Rome up
to the 16th century. At this epoch the
powers of the popes became consolidated
until the time of the French Revolution,
which for a time put an end to their tran-
quillity. General Berthier declared Rome
a republic in 1798, but by the peace of
Luneville it was returned to Pius VII.
In 1808 Napoleon I. united Rome to the
French Empire, with most of the ecclesias-
tical states; the remainder he annexed to
the kingdom of Italy. He declared Rome
the second city of the empire ; originated
a department of the Tiber with a French
prefect, and proclaimed his son King of
Rome.
After 1814 the popes were rendered
back their power, which they maintained
until 1848, when Pius IX. was obliged to
flee from Rome. The following year a re-
public was declared. The papal power
was established in 1850 by Napoleon III.,
who placed a corps d'armee there for the
defense of the Pope. In 18GO the Italians
endeavored to make Rome the capital ; but
by the convention of September 15, 1864,
it was fixed at Florence, and France en-
gaged to withdraw her troops in two years.
This convention was strictly adhered to,
but they were recalled after the Garibal-
dian difficulties in 1867, and quartered in
the neighborhood until the breaking out
of the war between France and Prussi.-i.
when they were withdrawn ; and on the
20th September the Italian troops marched
into Rome after a bombardment of five
hours, since which time the States of the
Church have been incorporated with those
ROME.
[ITALY.]
ROME.
of Italy, and Koine is once more the capi-
tal of i'nited Italy.
The pope, since the annexation, has not
quitted the Vatican, consequently the great
religious festivals at St. Peter's have lost
their former attraction, many of them
being entirely suspended, especially those
of the holy week, the benedictions, and
Fete de Dieu.
It is impossible, in a visit as brief as that
usually given to the ancient capital of the
civilized world, to become thoroughly ac-
quainted with its objects of interest. In
its walls and in the range of a few miles
around it is found the greater part of the
material on which we base our knowledge
of the antique past. Within a day's ride
are the rem:tin> of all the epochs of rivili-
zation of which we have any knowledge,
and in the galleries, composed of the re-
mains found in and around Home, is the
most of what we have of antique art. The
first object of interest as we approach the
city is the wall, an irregular zigzag struc-
ture, mainly of brick, with towers and bas-
tions of all forms and kinds of masonry.
It is that known as the wall of Aurelianus.
It has been breached and repaired many
times, and was thoroughly repaired by
Belisarius, since whose time it has under-
gone little change. It probably coincided
with the more ancient wall of Servius Tul-
lius only at one point, near St. John Late-
ran. Incorporated in it, in the course of
its circuit, are the pyramid of Caius Ces-
tius, the soldiers' amphitheatre, the aque-
ducts, and the Praetorian camp. It had on
the Capitol side of the Tiber thirteen gates,
of which eight only are now open, and on
the Vatican side two, of which only one,
with a portion of the wall, remains. The
actual wall of the Vatican part of the city
is of Middle Age construction. The Ports
S. Lorenzo (formerly Tiburtina) is by far
the earliest and most interesting. The in-
scriptions on the Porta Maggiore, with the
several aqueducts passing over it, have
great interest, the architecture of the gate
being, however, very bad.
The railway enters fhe city by an open-
ing made for its passage near the Porta
Maggiore, and has its terminus at the Pi-
azza di Termini, the site of the baths of
Diocletian, of which some magnificent frag-
ments will give the traveler his first evi-
dences of the splendor of the Rome of the
Emperors. The railway passes, however,
two most interesting ruins between the
wall and the terminus the TEMPLE OF
MIXKUVA MKHICA. and the AGGER OF
SEUVIUS TuLi.irs. supposed formerly to
have been here only a mound, but shown
by the cutting of the railway through it to
contain a massive Etruscan wall of huge
blocks of peperino.
The wall of Servius Tullius inclosed tho
seven hills, and, passing from the Quirinal
to the Capitol, struck the Tiber near the
island, the greater part of modern Rome
having been built on what was anciently
the Campus Martius and adjacent land ly-
ing outside the Servian wall ; in fact, the
seven hills are now almost entirely unin-
habiti'd, tln> Aventine, overlooking the Ti-
ber and |iort of Kipa Grande, having on
it only two monastic establishments ; the
Palatine, the ruins of the palace of the Cae-
sars (now being partially excavated), and
two monastic buildings ; the Cselian, the
villa Mattel, now a nunnery, the churches
of St. Stefano Hotonda, St. Gregory, Sts.
John and Paul, the ruins of the vivarium,
and a few buildings, monastic and other,
on the side toward the Esquiline; on the
latter are the ruins of the baths of Titus,
St. Pietro in Vincoli, and two or three farm-
houses ; the Viminal is traversed by the
Via di Quattrofontane, but the greater part
of it is occupied by the grounds of the villa
Negroni, the baths of Diocletian, and vine-
yards, parts of the Quirinal and Capitol
only being to any extent dwelt on.
Of the bridges which cross the Tiber,
the POXTE ST. AXGELO, formerly Pans
sElius, built by Hadrian ; SISTO, former-
ly Janicolensis ; QUATTRO CAPI, formerly
Fdbricius, connecting the island with the
city ; S. BARTOLOMEO, former!}' Cestius ;
and P. ROTTO, formerly Palatinus, of
which a part only remains, the damage be-
ing repaired by a suspension bridge, the
work of Pio IX., are all ancient, a new
suspension bridge near the Santo Spirito
being the only entirely modern one ; \\h\\i:
of the fttiMicitu, mad- innnortjd bv Hora-
tius Codes, and the first built across the
Tiber, and of the Triumphalis, which led to
the Temple of Jupiter Vaticanus, only the
remains of the piers are left the latter
visible from the Ponte St. Angelo, the for-
mer from the Marmorata, or marble depot
beneath the Aventine.
849
ROME.
The first visit of most travelers will be
to the FORUM HOMAXUM and the adjacent
ruins, and certainly in the few acres which
lie between the Capitol and the Colosseum
is gathered the most marvelous collection
of the remains of antiquity to be found in
the world. From the Cloaca Maxima and
the Mamertine Prison, the work of the ear-
ly kings, built nearly twenty-five centu-
ries ago, down to the Basilica of Constan-
tine, we have an almost complete series of
the building of all epochs, the Forum it-
'self, lying in the valley between the Pala-
tine and Capitoline hills, being the nucleus,
as if Rome grouped all her most glorious
works around the cradle of her power, the
place of popular assemblies.
Entering the Forum from the Via Bo-
nella, we have the CAPITOL above us at the
right ; at the foot of its wall the remains
of the TEMPLE OF CONCORD, the three
columns of the Temple of Vespasian, the
colonnade of the TEMPLE OF SATURN ; and
in front the ARCH OF SEPTIMIUS SEVERCS,
with other remains ; at the left the solitary
COLUMN OF PHOCAS, the VIA SACRA be-
yond, then the substruction of the BASILI-
CA JULIA ; farther to the left the three col-
umns of the GR.*:COSTASIS mark the era
of the Forum proper ; at the left of this as
you face the COLOSSEUM, which looms up
in the distance, is the TEMPLE OF ANTO-
NINUS and FAUSTINA ; at the right the
huge ruins of the PALACE OF THE CAESARS.
SANTA MARIA IN FORO, a forgotten church,
close to the Septimius Arch, was excavated
in 1882-3. Along the sides of the Forum
were the tabernae, or shops. At one of
the former Virginius purchased the knife
witli which he preserved his daughter from
slavery. On the Via S. Teodoro is the
ancient TEMPLE OF ROMULUS, now the
church of S. Teodoro. Continuing down
the Via S. Teodoro, we turn to the right
into the Via S. Giorgio in Velabro, and
come to the Arch of JANUS QUAURIFRONS,
an ugly sample of Roman taste. At the
right of it is an interesting monument to
Septimius Severus by the goldsmiths of
Rome. Opposite this, passing under a gar-
den arch, is the path to the CLOACA MAX-
IMA (a man is generally in attendance to
show them). Following the same street
we arrive at the Piazza della Bocca di Ve-
rita, in which stands the beautiful TEMPLE
OF VESTA, a circular building of the best
850
[ITALY.] ROMP,
times of Roman architecture, and in nearly
perfect preservation.
In the portico of S. M. in Cosmedin, op-
posite (formerly the TEMPLE OF CERES
AND PROSERPINE), is the famous mask in
which it is fabled that accusations were
put, or, according to others, into which the
hand of persons taking an oath was put,
with a belief that it would be crushed if
forsworn : it has evidently been part of
a fountain. Near the Ponte Rotto, be-
tween it and the Temple of Vesta, is the
TEMPLE OF FORTUNA VIRILIS, the oldest
in Rome, built by Ancus Martius B.C. 620
or 630, also the house of Rienzi. Exca-
vations of the Temple of Vesta, begun
in 1883, have already led to remarkable
results, and are being most actively pros-
ecuted. The ruins are marked by sign-
boards, with authorities. On the oppo-
site side of the Palatine, however, is an
entrance to that part of the ruins which
are not included in the French excava-
tions, and this is accessible at all times
by paying a small fee (1 paul is the usual
fee in all such cases) to the woman who
opens the gate. The principal part of the
ruins of this side is what is called the
HOUSE OF AUGUSTUS, the largest mass on
the Palatine. From the terrace above this
we have a fine view of the Campagna and
southern and southwestern environs of
Rome, commencing on the rkht with the
Aventine, then, going leftward, the PYRA-
MID OF GAITS Ci-:sTirs and the Protestant
cemetery, the grand mass of the I'ATUS OF
CARACALLA : still farther to the left the
Gate of St. Si-lia.-tian. VILLA MATTEL ST.
STF.FANO ROTONDO, fragments of the
aqueducts, with a piece of wall containing
the ARCH OF DOLAP.ELLA, the churches
of STS. JOHN AND PAUL, ST. GF.I:I;<II;Y,
and ST. JOHN LATEKAN, the ruins of tiie
HATHS OF TITUS on the ( 'n-lian. and, final-
ly, a fine view of the COI.OSSKUM on the
ruined side. At the west, beneath the
ruins, is a plain which was formerly the
<'u:i i:s MAXIMUS, supposed to be the scene
of the rape of the Sabines. Continuing
the road by which we came, we reach the
BATHS OF CARACALLA by a narrow road
turning off to the right just after crossing
the brook (this brook, be it here noted,
| once came into the city by the Claudian
Aqueduct). Beyond, by the main road
(which is the old Via Appia), we come to
[ITALY.]
BOUE.
the TOMB OK THE SCIPIOS, tlie COLUM-
BARIA, the ARCH OF DRUSCS, and the
PORTA S. SEUASTIANO.
Returning toward the Forum, we turn
to the right In-fore reaching the house of
Augustus. aii'l follow tl'.e Via S. Gregorio,
passing a fragment of the CLACDIAN AQUE-
DUCT on the loft and under the ARCH OF
CONSTANTINO. '1'liis monument, at once
of the power of the emperor and of the want
of last.- and artistic power of his age, was
formerly an Arch of Trajan, and was re-
moved to its present site by Constantino,
and reconstructed, with the addition of
some sculptures which are the most barba-
rous to be found in Rome. As you emerge
from the arch you find immediately in front
of you the MET A SUDAN'S, or fountain in
which the gladiators were accustomed to
wash after their exercises. At the left is
the VIA SACRA, descending from the ARCH
OF TITCS, which stands on the top of the
ridge dividing the Forum from the low land
on which the Colosseum is built. At the
right of the Arch of Titus is the huge struc-
ture of the TEMPLE OK VENUS AND ROME,
of which the double tribune only remains.
Numerous fragments of granite columns
strew the ground, hinting faintly at the
magnificence of the temple when it stood.
This t.Miiple was built by Hadrian after his
own design, and there is a story to the ef-
fect that when it was finished he asked
Apollodorus what ho thought of it; the
architect replying that it was very good
for an emperor, Hadrian ordered him be-
headed. Beyond the temple, and partially
visible over it, are the remains of the BA-
SILICA OF CONSTAXTINE, commenced by
Maxentius a-; a Temple of Peace, and fin-
ished by Con<t inline after the defeat and
death of Maxontius. To the right of the
Temple of Venus and Rome, and on a
level with the Arch of Constantine, is the
square base on which stood the colossal
statue of Xero. At your right, and filling
the remainder of the view, is the FLAVIAN
AMPHITHEATRE, known as the Colosseum.
This greatest of antique structures, built
in honor of Titus, and on which it is said
60,000 Jews were engaged ten years, would
probably have been in a nearly complete
ptate luit for the ravages of man during
the Middle Ages. It was a feudal fortress
for a long time. and finally a quarry from
which were built churches and palaces, un-
til, by its consecration as holy ground on
account of the number of martyrs supposed
to have been immolated there, farther rav-
age was stopped. The subsequent repairs,
tlimsLch greatly interfering with its pictur-
esquencss, will doubtless have the effect
of preserving the remainder for centuries
more. It is said to have given seats to
87,000 spectators, and was inaugurated
A.D. 81, the same year in which Titus
died, on which occasion 5000 wild animals
and 10,000 captives were slain. The in-
auguration lasted one hundred days. There
are three orders of architecture used in the
four stories the first Doric, second Ionic,
the third and fourth Corinthian. In each
of the lower tiers there were eighty arches.
The circumference of the building is 1641
feet, the height of the outer wall 157 ; the
length of the arena is 278 feet, and width
177 ; the whole superficial area is six acres.
' I rlo remember me that in my youth.
When I was wondering, upon such a night
I stood within the Coliseum's wall
Midst the chief relics of almighty Home;
The trees which grew along the broken arches
Waved dark in the blue midnight, and the
star-
Shone through the rents of ruin; from afar
The wittch-do<r bny'd beyond the Tiber ; and
More near, from out the ( 'fesnrs' palace came
The owl's long cry, and, interruptedly,
Of distant eentinels the fitful song
Begun and died upon the gfntle wind.
Some cypresses beyond the time-worn breach
Appeared to fkirt the horizon, yet they stood
Within a bowshot where the Csesars dwelt,
And dwell the tuneless birds of night, amid
A grove which springs through level'd battle-
ments.
And twines its roots with the imperial hearths ;
Ivy usurps the laurel's place nf growth ;
But the gladiator's bloody ciivn- -t \<\<\-*,
A noble wreck in ruinous perfection.
While CaBsar's chambers ami the Augustan
Imlls
Grovel on earth in indistinct decay."
It is only by ascending to the upper ter-
race that the enormous size of the Colosseum
is fully seen, and by moonlight the effect
of size and massiveness is much increased,
and the modern repairs lost sight of. To
obtain entrance at night it is necessary to
have a ticket from the commandant de
place: your card is sufficient application.
The ruins south of the Colosseum are
supposed to have been the Vivarium, in
which were kept the wild beasts for the
combats. In the vineyard northeast are
the remains of the BATHS OF TITCS, found-
ed on a portion of the Golden House of Nero,
851
ROME. [ITALY.]
in the excavation of which were discover- 1
ed the mural paintings which gave so great j
an impetus to the classic revival of art.
Returning to the Forum by the road be-
hind the Temple of Venus and Rome, you
pass through the ruins of the BASILICA OF
CONSTANTINE, one of the most impressive
fragments in Rome, and re-enter the Fo-
rum near the TEMPLE OF REMUS, now the
church of SS. Cosmo and Damiano, of
which it forms a beautiful portico. The
body of the building, as well as that of the
Temple of ANTONINUS and FAUSTINA, just
beyond (now S.Lorenzo in Miranda), has
doubtless been preserved nearly or quite
entire under its refitting.
Following the narrow street which leads
past the Mamertine Prison, the Via de Mar-
forio, we pa<s on our right, just before
reaching the Via di Ripresa de Barber},
the TOMB OF BIBULUS, a relic of the con-
sular period, and in excellent preservation.
It is of peperino, and, like most of the Ro-
man monuments, owes its present exist-
ence to having been built on in later times.
Going to the left, at the next turning
we shall reach the Piazza di Ara Coeli, the
square in front of the CAPITOL. The
church at the left, facing the Capitol, is
S. M. di Ara Coeli, standing on the site of
the Temple of Jupiter Capitolinus.
The CAPITOL, the modern Campidoglio,
is founded on the ancient Capitolium, the
citadel of Rome, of which the wall on the
side toward and overhanging the Forum
still remains in tolerable condition. The
present structure is the work of different
ages, the design of the front, as it now
stands, being by Michael Angelo. As-
cending the steps which lead from the pi-
azza, we enter a smaller piazza, of which
three sides are palaces ; that in front, the
Capitol proper, is now the palace of the sen-
ators (which, in the present state of things.
represents, hieroglyphically, the Roman
Senate), and contains the senatorial court-
room, the offices of the municipality, etc.,
and the observatory of the Capitol. Above
is the Tower of the Capitol, famous for
its view of the seven hills, but now abso-
lutely and unexceptionally closed to the
public. In this tower hangs the Patirina.
the bell which announces the death of the
Pope and the beginning of Carnival. Be-
low is the Museum of Ancient Architect-
ure, and some passages leading down into
852
ROME.
substructions ; also a staircase which gave
exit into the Forum. The building at the
right, the PALACE OF THE CONSERVATORS,
contains the PHOTOMOTECA, or gallery of
busts of illustrious men of Italy ; the pict-
ure-gallery, and the bronze group of the
wolf nursing Romulus and Remus, the old-
est Roman work of art. Statues and an-
tique fragments are arranged around the
court. There is an Etruscan Museum
containing a fine collection of antiquities.
A picture-gallery, founded by Benedict
XIV., open daily, gratis, from 10 to 3.
There are two fine rooms, restored in 1870,
with lists of modern Roman magistrates.
The Sale dei Consercatore can only be
visited by a ticket from the Sindaco. pro-
cured at the adjoining Tabularium. The
third building is the MUSEUM of the Capi-
tol, a magnificent collection of antique
marbles and bronzes. A catalogue of the
statues may be obtained. Open daily
from 10 to 3 ; fee 50 c. Sunday and Thurs-
day gratis.
On entering the building, we see at the
bottom of the court the colossal statue of
Ocean, which formerly stood in the Forum
of Mars, and remarkable for being the fig-
ure on which was posted, in former times,
the answers to the satirical sayings of Pas-
quino. On the first floor arc the Hulls of
Bronze* and of Urns. On the stairway to
the first floor are numerous fragments dis-
covered in the Temple of Remus. The
stairway conducts to a gallery of busts and
inscriptions. At the top of the stairway
is the Hall of the Dyiny Gladiator, which,
in addition to this brightest gem of art,
contains many works of the highest order.
First is the figure from which it derives its
name, which was found in the gardens of
Sallust. The wonderful, simple, and natu-
ral position of the liml:s, the relaxing mus-
cles and failing strength, the lineaments
of the f ice, expressive of the utmost an-
guish, yet endowed with manly fortitude,
might well call forth from Pliny, " With
such admirable art was the statue of the
Dj T ing Gladiator sculptured by Cre*ilas,
that one could judge how much of life re-
mained."
" I see before me the gladiator lie ;
lie leans upon Ms hand his manly brow
Consents to death, but conquers agony,
And his droop'd head sinks gradually low
And through hia side the last drops, ebbing
slow,
A NCI E I
Cain pus ' V a tie an us
J/lU'H.r Sortril -DlUii
.Hurrt.! AimJittni-e*, Pr*>li-t*;i-j6fi.C.n..
.*lut<tt.v Ptifiilf Ltwnif IV &fo fj.C.n.
ROME
/TrHan^l (Colosseum) ffirfa} guerquffu
. na f -'
/ ***^^\
land l)d
ROME.
[ITALY.]
ROMK
From the red gash fall heary, one by one,
Like tli<> fiivt of a thunder-shower; and now
The arena swims around him: he i* K'^ne,
Ere ceased the inhuman shout which hailed the
wretch who won."
This ball also contains the celebrated
Faun of Praxiteles, which was found in
the Villa d'Kste at Tivoli : also the Anti-
nous, found at Hadrian's villa, and the Am-
azon. The next room to this is the Ilttll
of the. Faun, from the celebrated rosso an-
tifo faun which stands in the centre of the
room, and which was found at Hadrian's
villa near Tivoli. In the large saloon no-
tice particularly the h>j\int ll<-rcnlf* in the
centre of the room : aUo the splendid Cen-
taurs. The next room contains statues
and busts of illustrious men ; then the Hall
nf Emptrfirs. In the centre of this room
is a beautiful sitting statue of Agrippina. j
A small room nearly opposite the last is
called the Reserved Cabinet, and is kept
locked, but a small fee will open it. It
contains the celebrated Vtniu of the Cap- '
iiol, perhaps the most lovely representation ,
of all the goddesses. It is placed on a pivot,
that the custodian may display it in all its
beauties. This room also contains a Cupid
and 1'sychc, and a group of Leda and the .
Swan. A room on the same side as the
last, near the stairway, contains the Doves
of J'tiny, one of the linest and best-pro- '
served mosaics of antiquity. It represents
four doves drinking, surrounded with a
lieautiful border. The. celebrated STATI K
of MAUCTS AritELirs, standing in the
square of the Capitol, is probably the linest
antique equestrian statue remaining to us.
The sculptures in front of it are antiques
dug up in different parts of the city. On
the right of the ascent is the Millearium,
or ancient first mile-stone on the Appian.
Ascending the steps at the right of the
square, we enter a street which leads to the
TAUPEIAX I!OCK. Half way down the ,
street a sizn indicates the residence of the
custode of the g'rounds. and a knock at the
door will summon him or his deputy.
The precipice from which criminals were
thrown down is much diminished in height |
by the accumulation of rubbish beneath,
but is still lofty enough to insure the death
(.fa culprit who should be thrown from it.
The view of the Palatine, Aventiue, and
Ripa Grande from here is line. There are
remains of several other forums, of which
the FOKUM TKAJAXVM is the lin.'st. con-
VOL. II. O2
taining the celebrated COLUMN OF TRA-
JAN, on which are sculptured tho actions
of his Dacian campaign. This forum was
drM^ned by Apollodorus, and the remains
of a magnificent temple, partiallv e.\i-a-
vated. are evidence of its magnificence.
The Forum of Augustus (Via lionella) con-
tains a fragment of a temple to MAI:N I i.-
TOR. The FOISTM <>K I'ALLAS, on the next
street southward, is indicated by two col-
umns of a colonnade which once surround-
ed the place. They support an entabla-
ture and frieze, with a statue of Minerva.
This forum was also called the Forum of
Nerva and Forum Transitorium. The
sites of several others are known by frag-
ments of architecture, but will scarcely re-
pay the labor of visiting to the voyager.
Of the temples which remain in other
parts of the city, and not already men-
tioned, the most interesting are the P.vx-
TKEOX, to which the traveler will make
one of his earliest visits, and the TEMPLE
OF NEPTCXE, now the Roman Custom-
house. The former is in nearly complete
preservation, and its massive architecture
and extreme simplicity of design give us
the best idea of the Roman architectural
genius that can be obtained from the re-
mains which we still have. It was built
by Agrippa about A.D. 27. The domed
ceiling is lighted by a circular aperture at
the summit, the wall being supported by a
huge bronze ring. The interior of the
rotunda is 142 feet in diameter, its height
1-13. The portico, which was ptob*hly
added to the building after its completion,
is 111) feet in length and 44 in depth, com-
posed of 16 granite columns with marble
capitals. The bronze doors are, in all prob-
ability, those which served it originally
The belfries are the work of Bernini, and,
if taste ruled modern Rome, would long
ago have l>een torn down.
The Pantheon has a more intense inter-
est to moderns in containing the resting-
place of the bones of Raphael, marked by
an inscription in the wall of the third chap-
el to the left. The statue of the Madonna
in this chapel was his gift, and was execu-
ted by Lorenzo Lotto for him. In 1833
the tomb was opened and the identity of
the remains proven, and, at the same time,
a east was taken of the skull and hand.
Of the TEMPLE OF XEPTUXE nothing is
visible but a colonnade ouilt into the wall
853
ROME.
[ITALY.]
ROME,
of the modern building. There are some
colossal fragments, beautifully sculptured,
lying in the Colonna gardens, which are
supposed to have been part of Aurelian's
Temple of the Sun.
In the church of S. Niccolo in Carcere,
Piazza Montanara, may be seen fragments
of three temples, supposed to have been
those of JUNO SOSPITA, HOPE, and PIETY.
It is supposed, but with little probability,
that the central one was the site of the
dungi'on made famous by the devotion of
the Horn in daughter who nursed there her
father condemned to die of starvation.
In the gardens of the convent of St. Bar-
tolomeo, on the island in the Tiber, may
be seen some columns and fragments of
the TEMPLE OF AESCULAPIUS, and from the
Ponte Rotto may be seen a fragment of
the travertine bulwark of the SHIP into
which the island was shaped when it was
dedicated to the God of Physic.
Several fragments of architecture in dif-
ferent parts of the city are supposed to
have been parts of temples of which we
know only the names with certainty ; but
the little space we can give to a city of
which volumes are written, oblige us to
omit all conjectural antiquities to do even
partial justice to those which are better
known and of greater interest.
Of the many theatres and amphitheatres
formerly existing in Rome, the COLOSSEUM
is already noticed. In the Piazza Monta-
nara is a most interesting fragment of the
THEATRE OF MAKCELLUS, showing two
stories of a building, in its construction
somewhat like the Colosseum, and of which
the Palazzo Orsini occupies the greater
portion of the former area.
Near it, and adjoining the Pescheria,or
fish-market, is a part of the PORTICO OF
OCTAVIA, built by Augustus to shelter the
spectators when driven from the open the-
atre by bad weather.
The Palazzo Cenci is built on the ruins
of the THEATRE OF BALBUS, of which only
two columns, with a portion of an archi-
trave, are visible in an adjoining street.
The site only of the THEATRE OK POM-
PEY is shown by the Palazzo Pio, in the
foundations of which some fragments of
the architecture are remaining.
The ARMY AMPHITHEATRE is included
in the city wall, where it turns round the
church of Sta. Croce in Gerusalemme. It
854
is of brick, and supposed to have been built
for the amusement and exercises of the
troops, and, like the Prsetorian camp, orig-
inally stood outside of the walls.
We have mentioned the arc-lies in the
vicinity of the Roman Forum. Besides
these are those of DOLABELLA, on the
Civliun. a single arch of travertine, of most
unpretending style and size; of Ditrsrs.
on the Appian Way, near the Porta S. S -
bastiano, noteworthy as the oldest of tin
remaining arches erected to commemorate
the victories of Rome; and of GALLIENCS,
near the church of St. Vito, scon at yo;ir
left as you go from Sta. Maria Maggiore
to S. Giovanni Laterano. The latter is
supposed to indicate the site of the Esqui-
line gate of the Servian Avail, though built
about A.D. 262.
The remains of the public baths are the
most impressive ruins of Rome excepting
the Colosseum. Those of DIOCLETIAN,
with the church of Sta. Maria dcgli Ange-
li, erected from the great hall, and other
large masses of masonry more or Isss in-
dicative of the original form and massive-
ness, give to the traveler, on his entry into
Rome by the Piazza de Termini, his first
idea of Roman magnificence. They once
covered the whole space now occupied by
the railway station, the Piazza, Villa Ne-
groni, and as far as the Via di Porta Pia,
including the little round church of S. Ber-
nardo, which is only a smaller circular hall
of the baths refitted.
Of the baths of Titus we have already
spoken. Of the masses of ruin included
under this title, and those adjoining, we
know little except by conjecture; only
that originally the house and gardens of
Mecamas stood there, that they were built
on by Nero, then by Titus, and probably
by subsequent emperors.
The tombs of ancient Rome constitute
the most striking feature in. its general as-
pect. Of those in the city, the TOMB OF
HADRIAN, now the Castle of St. Angelo,
and that of Augustus, the present day-
theatre, are the most imposing, and, even
as they are now to be seen, convey no fee-
ble idea of the greatness of their builders.
In the latter were buried Augustus, Dru-
RUS, Germanicus, and Agrippina, Tiberius,
Claudius, and Nerva, with Agrippa; Oc-
tavia, sister of Augustus; Li via, his wife;
Marcellus, his nephew; Drusus, son of
ROME.
[ITALY.]
ROME.
Livia by a former husband, and Drusus,
son of Tiberius.
The MAUSOLEUM OF HADRIAN* was the
tomb of the emperors from his time down
to Septimius Sevenis. The present struct-
ure is only the core of the mausoleum, and
was covered originally by a shell of Pa-
rian marble, and ornamented with statues,
whirl) wen.: turn oil' to be used as missiles
against the Cintlis, and later as cimmu
balls, of which piles now lie on the ram-
part made of the finest Parian marble.
Through the Middle Ages, this, like the
tomb of Aiu'ustus, and other ruins of any
size, was used as a fortress, and all the fine
marbles were peeled off to be burnt into
lime. Permission to enter the castle and
gee the prisons, including those of the Cen-
ci, may be obtained from the commandant
de place.
The SEPULCHRE OF THE SCIPIOS, on
the Via Appia, is interesting not only as
showing the resting-place of a great fam-
ily, hut as an early example of the kind of
Inirvin^-placc which afterward was known
as a catacomb. It is a series of galleries
in the rock, with sepulchral chambers, in
which, in 1780, were found the sarcophagi
of manj- of the Scipios.
The COLUMBARIA, near the sepulchre
of the Scipios, are exceedingly interesting.
One, in the same vineyard with the sep-
ulchre, is the resting-place of the ashes of
numerous members of the family of Julius
CiEsar.
Of the numerous piazzas of Rome, the
modern representations of the forums of
the ancient city, the finest is the PIAZZA
XAVOXA, the great market-place, occupy-
ing the site of the Circus Agonalis, where
St. Agnes was beheaded, and where now
the splendid church of St. Agnes stands,
which was erected in memory of her.
Wednesday is the market-day, and the pi-
azza is well wortli a visit on this day.
The PIAZZA DEL POPOLO. under the Pin-
cian, contains the obelisk taken by Augus-
tus from the Temple of the Sun at Helinp-
olis, and raised in the Circus Maximus ;
and a church, S.Maria del Popolo, said to
have been built to lay the ghost of Nero.
There are in this church some fine paint-
in,--; by Pinturicchio. Tin- PIA/./..V in
SPAGXA i- tin- centre of the Stranger*'
Quarter, and will be better remembered fur
the models who sun themselves pleasant
afternoons on the flight of steps leading
from it up to the PIAZZA DI TKIXITA HE
MOXTI. At the head of those steps is the
church which contains the DESCENT FROM
THE CROSS by Volterra. The house wliieii
forms the angle between the Vias Gregori-
ana and Sistiiri was inhabited by Claude,
the one opposite the steps by Poussin.
The PIAZZA m MOXTI: CAVALLO, on the
Quirinal, gives entrance to the ROSPIOLI-
osi PALACE, where is the Aurora of Gui-
do. The two colossal horses here are
stupidly styled the work of Phidias and
Praxiteles, since there is nothing in them
to entitle them to be considered Greek
work.
The PIAZZAS BARBERIXA, DELLE TAR-
TARCGHE, TREVI, and XAVOXA contain
fountains worthy of notice. There is a
popular superstition that whoever drinks
of the water of Trevi the night before leav-
ing Rome will be sure to return. The
PIA/.X.A PAS(jrix<>, near the Xavona, con-
tains the famous PASQUIX, a fragment of
Greek sculpture of the highest order of
art, but badly mutilated. Here are posted
the political squibs of Rome
BASILICAS AXD CHURCHES.
ST. PETER'S, the great marvel of Chris-
tian Rome, is built on or near the place
where stood the Temple of Jupiter Vatica-
nus, so called because it was the place
where the rates, or augurs, made their au-
guries from the victims sacrificed, and from
which is derived the name borne by the pa-
pal palace of the Vatican. The first struc-
ture on this site was an oratory erected in
A.D. 90 to indicate the place where St.
Peter was buried. Constantino the Great
erected a basilica on the spot. The pres-
ent structure was commenced by Julius II.
about 1503, under the direction of Braman-
ti ; but the present form of the basilica is
due more to Michael Angelo than to any
other of the many architects employed on
it. The front of the building was design-
ed by Carlo Maderno, who made great and
injurious alterations in the design of Mi-
chael Angelo.
The colonnades around t!i- piazza were
de-Mgiu'd by He-mini. They inclose a space
7>7 (Vet in diameter, and are connected
with the facade by two galleries 296 feet
in length. The facade is 379 feet long and
148J high, and contains five doors, which
855
[ITALY.]
ROME.
idimt us tc t\ie vestibule, or grand en-
trance, which occupies the whole width
of the church, 468 feet long, CG high, and
50 wide.
"Enter! its prandcur overwhelms tlice not;
And why? it is not lessened; but thy mind,
Expanded by the genius of the spot,
Has grown colossal, and can only find
A fit abode wherein appear enshrined
Thy hopes of immortality ; and thou
Shalt <jne day, if found worthy, ?o defined,
See thy God face to face, as thou dust now
His Holy of Holies, nor be blasted by his brow."
And who hat does enter will fail to be im-
pressed with the grandeur of the interior,
with its statues, vestibules, and other beau-
ties ? When in the interior we find among
its attractions the nave, beautifully orna-
mented, with its massive piers, arches, and
fine pavement composed of marbles ; its
dome, which commands the admiration of
all strangers ; the baldichino, or canopy,
covering the high -altar, composed of
bronze, from the designs of Bernini ; the
tribune, the gilding of which cost $100,000,
decorated from the designs of Michael An-
gelo, rich in ornament?, at the bottom of
which is the bronze chair of St. Peter. The
interior is 613 feet in length, the height
of the nave 152J ; the length of the tran-
septs is 446J. The interior diameter of the
dome is 139 feet, the exterior 195J; the
height from the pavement to the base of
the lantern is 405 feet, to the top of the
cross 448 feet.
Monuments. The ancient monuments of
St. Peter's are generally inferior to the
other works of art contained in this edifice ;
there are some, however, quite remarka-
ble, such as the mausoleum of Paul III.,
by Giuglielmo della Porta ; monument of
Urban VTII., principally from the design
of Bernini; tomb of Alexander VIII., by
Arrigo di San Martino ; tomb of Alexan-
der VII., last work of Bernini ; tomb of
Pius VII., executed by Thorwaldsen at
the expense of Cardinal Gonsalvi ; por-
phyry sarcophagus, with alabaster drap-
ing, and a medallion portrait of Maria
Clementina Sobieska, wife of the Pretender
James III. ; monument of the Stuarts
celebrated work of Canova's. In the north
aisle of the church is the chapel, contain-
ing the celebrated Pieta, by Michael An-
gelo, one of his finest works, executed at
the age of 24 ; the group representing the
Virgin with the body of the dead Saviour on
806
i her knees : on the girdle of the Virgin
Michael Angelo has inscribed his name, an
uncommon occurrence among his works.
In the Capella della Colonna Santa is the
monument of Christina, queen of Sweden,
representing her abjuration of Protestant-
ism in the Cathedral of Innsbruck, 16G5.
The chapsl of the Holy Sacrament con-
tains the tomb of Sixtus IV. in bronze;
tomb of Gregory XIII.; also of Gregory
XIV., who received but a miserable monu-
mental offering to his memory. In the
chapel of the Madonna dtl Xoccorso lie*
buried St. Gregory Nazianzenus : tomb of
Gregory XV. ; also the splendid monu-
ment of Gregory XVI. But the great
feature here is the magnificent tomb of
Clement XIII., by Canova, one of the few
worthy specimens of sculpture in St. Pe-
ter's. It was commenced in the artist's
30th year ; he was employed on it ei Jit
years. It is by many considered liis mas-
terpiece. In all of the ahove-named chap-
els are many specimens of fine frescoes,
statues, altars, etc.
The Sacristy, Chapel of the Confessional,
the Grotto Vaticano, and Grotto Nuovo,
are full of interest and history.
The ascent of (he dome can only be allow-
ed by obtaining an order from the direc-
tor of the Fabbrica of St. Peter's, or from
your minister or consul. Visitors are ad-
mitted from 8 to 10 o'clock. From this
summit a correct idea, and, in fact, the
only correct one, may be obtained of the
immense size of St. Peter's, when, as we
view persons passing along the pavement,
we can scarcely realize them to be human
beings, so diminutive are they in appear-
ance. The cross is 16 feet in height, and
the immense ball, which is an interesting
feature, composed of copper plates, is eight
feet in diameter, and capable of accommo-
dating 16 persons.
The subterranean church m&y be visited
; by gentlemen any forenoon (except on
jfestas) between 9 and 11, but by ladies
only on Whitsunday, or by special permis-
! sion obtained from your minister, banker,
or by one of the regular agents employed
for this purpose.
The ceremonies of St. Peter's are not
the same as before the Italian occupation,
ROME.
[ITALY.]
HOME.
and many of them have beeiv discontinued. ' top of the facade is decorated with 15 stat-
We give them as they were before, and ues of our Saviour and saints. In the ves-
may be again: New -Year's Mass, at 10 tibule, an ancient marble represents Con-
A.M.. January 1st, when the Pope is at stantine, from his baths on the (juiriual.
the Vatican palace. Vespers in the Sis- The interior is divided into live aisles,
tine, January 5th, 3 P.M. Epiphany, Jan- The colossal statues of the twelve apostles
uarv Gth, high mass at 10 A.M. January fill up the pillars of the nave. This church
18th, Chair of St. Peter's. February 2d, comprises one of the finest chapels in Home,
Purification of the Virgin. Holy Week in the form of a Greek cross, with a cen-
ceremonies commence with Palm Sunday ; tral dome magnificently decorated with
continue Wednesday with TKXKUK.K in the gilding, marbles, and pictures, bearing the
Sistine Chapel and St. Peter's (side chapel) title of the Corsini Chapel. A mosaic copy
at 4| P.M. Thursday, high mass in the of Giulio's picture of S. Andrea Corsini
Sistine at 10 A.M., and benediction from adorns the altar. Among the tombs are
the balcony. Also the washing of the feet, those of Cardinal Xeri, Corsini. and dem-
and the dinner of the thirteen priests, who ent XII., which formerly stood under the
represent the twelve apostles, and another portico of the Pantheon. The high-altar,
who appeared to Gregory the Great at a standing beneath a superb Gothic taberna-
feet-washing, and is since represented. At j cle, is a remarkable specimen of the 14th
H, TENEBR.K as on Wednesday. Friday, century: within is a table of wood, upon
TEXEHR.E, as before, and procession to the which tradition says officiated St. Peter,
tomb of St. Peter. Easter Sunday, high In the left-hand transept is the altar of
mass at 9i, the Pope officiating, with grand the Holy Sacrament, with its four gilt
procession, and greater benediction at noon bronze columns, which are said to have
from the balcony in front. June 28th, the belonged to the Temple of Jupiter Capito-
procession of CORPUS DOMINI. "29th, high linus, cast from the bronze rostra captured
mass at 10 A.M. Christmas, grand mass at the battle of Actiuin by Augustus. Near
at 10 A.M. Vespers are sung every day this is the Portico J.tonino, in which is a ta-
from 3 to 4\ P.M. in the side chapel. To ble of cedar wood, said to be that on which
obtain admission to the seats or privileged the Lust Supper was eaten. The second
places either in the body of the church or chapel on the right was purchased by the
in the Sistine at Holy Week and Christ- Torlonias, and converted into a mausole-
mas ceremonies, ladies must be in black um. It was magnificently decorated in
dress with a black veil, and gentlemen in gold and marble, said to have cost upward
evening dress. \ of $300,000. The chapel of the Massino
The LATERAN BASILICA is built on the family contains some good sepulchral mon-
site of the house of the senator Plautius uments, etc. The principal ceremonies
Lateranus, who was put to death by which occur in St. John I-ateran are on
Nero for conspiracy. Constantino gave the Saturday before Easter, on Ascension
the house to the Bishop of Rome, and Day. and on the festival of St. John the
founded this basilica in the fourth ccntu- Baptist. The cloisters still retain their
ry. since when it has taken rank as the beauties, and from the rear of them may
mother of all Christian churches. There be obtained a fine view of the remains of
is but little left of the old church, a few the decorations of the old basilica. The
columns only being seen in the nave. It Baptistery of S. Giovanni in Fontc is full
in former times ranked higher than St. of interest and art. Opposite the I.ateran
Peter's. The popes are always crowned is the ticala Santa, or stairs, supposed to
here, and for 1500 years it has retained its have been those of Pilate's house up which
privileges. One of the first forms observed Christ was led to \ie judged,
on the election of a new pope is the cere- STA. MARIA MA<:<;I<>RK. so called be-
mony of taking possession of the Lateran cause the largest of the numerous churches
Basilica. The front, consisting of a mag- dedicated to St. Mary, was founded on the
nilicent colonnade, is very impressive. Esi|uiline. A.D. ::.V_', by Pope Liberius,
There are five entrances, the one in the from whom it is called the Liberian Basil-
centre having a bronze door, taken from ica, and was erected to commemorate a mi-
tbe Temple of Peace in the Forum. The , raculous fall of snow which took place in
857
ROME.
[ITALY.]
ROME.
the month of August, covering the space
now occupied by the basilica. The inte-
rior is the most lieautiful of its kind in ex-
istence ; the roof is elaborately carved, and
gilded with superior gold brought to Spain
from South America, presented by Ferdi-
nand and Isabella to Alexander VI. Sis-
tine Chapel, or llo'y Sacrament, erected by
Sixtus V., is rich in marbles and other
decorations. In a small chapel underneath
the high-altar are preserved the boards of
the manger in which the Saviour was laid
after his birth : a solemn ceremon y and pro-
cession on Christmas eve commemorates
this subject : five boards of the manger com-
pose the cradle in which the Saviour was
deposited at his nativity. An urn of silver
and crystal inclose these relics ; on the top
is a figure of the child. The Cappella Pao-
lina, or Borghesiana, belonging to the Bor-
ghese family, far surpasses the Sistine
chapel in the richness of its decorations.
Beneath the chapel are the sepulchral fam-
ily vaults. The Princess Borghese and her
three children were the last that were de-
posited there. The death of this princess
was universally regretted, she being much
beloved for her unbounded benevolence,
virtues, and many good works. The cere-
monies which take place in this basilica
during the year are of a very imposing
nature. This church contains in its nave
some mosaics interesting as being among
the oldest examples of Christian art in ex-
istence. They are certainly above a thou-
sand years old. The interior of the church
is exceedingly beautiful, and has recently
been enriched by the tomb of Pius IX.,
who has chosen it as his place of sepulture.
This tomb is decorated with the rarest and
most beautiful marbles, and stones of great
value, lapis-lazuli and malachite, and it
probably surpasses in this way any thing
else in existence. The Pauline chapel in
this basilica contains the miraculous pic-
ture of the Virgin and Child, attributed to
St. Luke, and which Gregory the Great
carried in procession to stop the plague in
A.D. 590. In front of this church stands
a column taken from the Basilica of Con-
stantino, and which was dedicated to the
Virgin A.D. 1613.
The most gorgeous and costly of the ba-
silicas is that of ST. PAUL WITHOUT THE
WALLS, on the road to Ostia, and 1J miles
beyond the gate St. Paul. It was com-
858
menced by Valentinian II. and Theodosius
in A.D. 388, on the site of an earlier one
by Constantine, over the Catacombs, where
was buried Lucina, a noble Roman lady.
It was restored in the 8th century, but
burned in tin; year 1^'2:!, leaving only the
western facade, the tribune, with some in-
teresting mosaics of the 13th century, and
some columns, and a colonnade. It has
been restored on the plan of the original
building, and now stands the most gor-
geous monument of Catholic devotion tlio'*
world can show. Under its high-altar lie
the remains (according to the church au-
thorities) of Sts. Peter and Paul. Nothing
could be more beautiful than this edifice,
with its magnificent nave and aisles, its
roof so exquisitely carved, its granite col-
umns, 80 in number, of the Corinthian or-
der, etc. The high-altar, standing under
a splendid canopy, supported by 4 columns
of white alabaster, which were presented
by Mehemet All, late Viceroy of Egypt, to
Gregory XVI. In the centre of the trib-
une, which is very elegant, stands a rich'
ly decorated episcopal chair, composed of
marble, and on either side one of four col-
umns, saved from the ruins of the ancient
basilica, of violet marble. The series of
imaginary portraits of the Popes were ex-
ecuted at the mosaic establishment in the
Vatican. At the extreme end of the trib-
une a handsome bell-tower has been erect-
ed.
The cloister of the Benedictines adjoin-
ing is a most interesting example of that
kind of architecture of the 12th and 13th
centuries.
The BASILICA OK ST. LORENZO, on the
road to Tivoli, is of the earl}- epoch of Chris-
tian architecture, and contains some inter-
esting fragments of antiquity, amongwhich
are some columns, probably from the Por-
tico of Octavia.
The most lieautiful and complete of the
churches of the Basilica order is ST. A<t-
M:S OTTSIDK THE WALLS, a mile from the
Porta Pia, on the Via Nomentana. It was
founded by Constantine, and still preserves
its antique form and character of ornament'
ation. Close by it stands the Baptistery of
S. Constanza, of the same period. nd in
which are some mosaics contemporary with
the building.
The BASILICA OF THE SS. APOSTOLI
contains the remains of SS. Philip and
KOMK.
[ITALY.]
KOMK.
James. Michael Angelo was buried here, j
but his body was afterward carried to Flor-
ence. In the portico is an interesting alto-
relievo of a Roman eagle -with the laurel
wreath.
The BASILICA OF S. CEOLIA, in the
Trastevere, contains the exquisite statue,
bv Maderno, representing the body of the
saint as it was found in the Catacombs where
it was buried: it is of the 17th century.
>. ' 'I.KMKXTE is remarkable for the sub- .
tcrranean basilica which has recently been
excavated beneath it, with its columns still j
standing, and frescoes perfect as when the
church was buried. They arc the earliest
known examples of Christian painting, if
we except those of the Catacombs, and
probably date from the 8th century. The
interior of the modern church contains
some exquisitely carved marble railings,
and the two reading-desks of the early
Christian churches, and some interesting
frescoes by Masaccio.
v I'ir.THO ix ViNtoi-i, a basilica, so
called because it was built to preserve the
chain with which Peter was bound in Je-
rusalem. It contains Michael Angelo's
Moses, and two other figures, also by him,
are placed each side of this, the greatest of
his works.
Of the churches we shall only mention
those of special interest historically or ar-
tistically.
S. AGOSTIXO, near the Piazza Xavona.
contains the famous Madonna, on which
gifts to the value of millions of scudi are
hung, and to which the greatest miracu-
lous power is attributed. In this church
is the ISAIAH OK RAPHAEL.
S. AXGKLO ix I'i:s< IIKIMA, adjoining
the fish -market, and near the Ghetto, is
the church where Kien/.i called the first
mass meetings of the Romans to inaugu-
rate his revolution, and where he prepared
himself by religious exercises for his work.
S. MAIMA ix AHA C<EI.I contains the
miraculous bambino, or image of the in-
fant Christ, for which a most curious festi-
val is made on Christinas and the succeed-
ing days. The exhibition of the Bambino
at sunset to the crowd of its adorers in the
piazza is one of the most striking of the
Roman sjwc;
The Church of the CAPIMTIXI, on the
Fiazza Barberini, contains Guide's Mi-
chael," Gherardo della Kotte's "Christ
mocked, "and some other pictures of inter-
est: also the famous Capuchin Cemetery,
one of the most curious and, at the same
time, tasteless objects of curiosity to be
seen. The vaults are decorate 1 with or-
naments of human bones, and skeletons
lie on couches of bones covered by cano-
pies of like material.
S. LOKEXZO IN LITIXA, in the Piazza
of that name, contains the tomb of Pous-
sin. S. Luigi de Francesi contains some
tine pictures of Domenichino.
S. MARIA ix LOKETO, a copy of the
house of the Virgin brought by angels to
Loreto, has one of the most tasteful and
unaffected modern statues in Rome, the
S. Susanna, by Fiammingo, and a picture
of great interest by Perngino.
S. MAIM A SOPIJA MIXERVA. built on the
ruins of a temple of Minerva, contains Mi-
chael Angelo's ''Christ," some pictures by
Fra Angelico and Filippino Lippi, with a
crucifix by Giotto, and the tomb of Fra
Angelico.
In S. MAKIA DKM.A PACK, near the Pi-
azza Xavona. are the four Sibyls of Ra-
phael. S. Maria in Via Lata is supposed
to be built on the spot where St. Paul was
lodged with the centurion.
S. MAHTIXO DK MONTI is adorned by
some excellent landscape frescoes by Gas-
par Poussin, and some figures by Nicolo.
S. ONOFRIO, on the Janiculum. is hal-
lowed by l>eing the resting-place of Tasso,
who passed the last years of his life in the
convent adjoining. There are picture^ I y
Da Vinci, Pinturicchio, Perugino, Anni-
bal Caracci, and Domenichino. The view
of Rome from here is fine.
S. PRASSEDE contains some mosaics of
the 9th century, illustrated in Kitgler.
S. PrnEXTiAXA, near the S. M. M=ig-
giore, is supposed to be the first of Chris-
tian churches, and to occupy the house of
the senator Pudeus.wliich was the ti:
idence of Peter in Rome.
S. STEFAXO ROTOXDO is an interesting
building, and probably a pagiin structure,
converted into a church in the earliest day*
of Christianity.
There are numerous other churches of
less importance, if the traveler have time
to devote to them.
859
ROME.
[ITALY.]
ROME.
GALLERIES.
VATICAN.
The Vatican is the Capitol of modern
Rome, and its gallery of sculpture the most
complete and valuable in existence. It is
three stories high, and comprises an infi-
nite number of saloons, galleries, corridors,
chapels, a library of 100,000 volumes, a
museum which is immense, 20 courts, 8
grand stairways, and 200 small ones. The
historian Bonanni pretends that there are
13,000 chambers in the different buildings ;
5000, perhaps, would come nearer the truth.
It is far superior to any in the world in
history, being the most ancient, and de-
cidedly the most celebrated of all the p i-
pal palaces, composed of a mass of build-
ings erected by man}' different popes, cov-
ering a space 1200 feet in length and 1000
in breadth. It is at present the only resi-
dence of the Pope.
The entrance to the Vatican is by the
colonnade to the right of St. Peter's, up the
royal staircase, past the equestrian statue
of Constantino the Great, to the Sistine
Chapel. It is absolutely necessary, how-
ever, the first time one visits the Vatican,
to take a valet de place, and note well the
different turnings and doors where it is
necessary to ring or knock to gain admit-
tance, else one is certain to get bewilder-
ed. The Scala Reyia, or grand staircase,
leads to the S da Regi'.i, used as a hall of
audience for the embassadors. This hall
is finely decorated with stucco ornaments,
and covered with frescoes illustrating
events in the history of the popas. The
Cappilla Ststina, or Sistine Chapel, which
opens from this hall, is generally closed,
but by knocking at the door it will be
opened by the custodian, who will expect
three or four pauls' fee for a party. This
chapel was named after Pope Sixtus IV.,
who built it in 1472, is 134 feet in length,
and 41 in width. The frescoes arc very
fine, being executed by many eminent art-
ists, who were employed by the Pope to
decorate the chapel. The roof, commenced
in 1508, after Michael Angelo's return to
Roma, was completed in 1512. The sub-
jects are principally taken from the Old
Testament, and are carried out with grand-
eur and sublime majesty. The Tenebraj
and Miserere of Allegri are sung in this
chapel during Holy Week by the papal
860
choir. Opposite the entrance are the great
frescoes of the Last Judgment, 60 feet in
height and 30 feet broad. At the request
of Clement VII.. this great work was de-
signed and executed by Michael Angclo
when in his sixtieth year.
The Cappella Paulina is remarkable for
containing two celebrated frescoes by Mi-
chael Angelo.
Passing to the right, under the colon-
nade to the court of San Damaso, and as-
cending the stairway, we arrive at the
Logie of Raphael, which are divided into
13 arcades : these are painted after designs
by Raphael.
From the Loges you enter the Stanz?,or
Chambers of Raphael, which are four in
number : here an extra fee is expected.
The first room entered is called the Sola
of Constant inf. The whole was designed
by Raphael, but his untimely death put a
stop to the work. Raphael had commenced
to paint it in oil : it was finished, however,
by his pupil, Giulio Romano, in fresco. It
is thought that Raphael finished the two
splendid figures of Justice and Mensuetu-
do on each side of the great picture The
defeat of Maxentius by Constant ine, one of
the largest historical pictures ever painted.
The other subjects are The Cross ajipennny
to Constantine, by Giulio Romano (notice
the grotesque figure of a fool celebrated at
the court of Clement VII.) the Baptism
of Constantine by St. Sylvester, and the Do-
nation of Rome to the Popes ; the first paint-
ed by Frank Penni. and the last by Raphael
da Colle. The ceiling of this room was
painted by Lauretti.
The next room is the Sala of Tfeliodnrtis.
The first picture represents Ileliodorus, the
Syrian general, chased from the Temple
(which he went to rob) by two angels and
the celestial horseman of the Maccabees.
Raphael designed this picture in allusion
to tho military success of Julius II., who
had said. " It is necessary to throw the
kej's of St. Peter into the Tiber, and tako
the sword of St. Paul to deliver the coun-
try of the barbarians." This composition
I is considered the most animated of any of
Raphael's productions. Next, the Mira-
| de of Bolsena, the legend of an incredulous
priest convinced by the sight of the bleed-
ing wafer. In the foreground is a woman
on her knees : this is the first appearance
of the Fornarina in any cf Raphael's
Iff I
ROME.
[ITALY.]
HOME.
works. St. Leo I. preventing A ttila's en- '
trance info Rome, and the Deliverance of St.
Peter, in allusion to the deliverance of Leo
X.. who was inaile prisoner at the battle
of Ravenna.
The next room entered is the Camera del-
la Scgnatura, or School of A (hens. The sub-
jects illustrated are Theology, Philosophy,
Pot-try, and Jurisprudence. The allegor-
ical figures on the ceiling represent these
different subjects. The tirst subject is the
Dispute on the Ho'y Sacrament^. Heaven
and earth are here united. God, angels,
the saints, and doctors of the Church as-
semble to consecrate the institution of the
Eucharist : nearly all of the figures are
portraits. In the background may be seen
Raphat-1 and his master Perugino ; on the
right may be seen Dante crowned with
laurels. Notice on the same side Savona-
rola in a black cowl. Raphael had to ob-
tain permission from Julius II. to place
Savonarola in the composition, he having
been burned as a heretic by Alexander V I .
Next is Poetry, a representation of Mount
Parnassus, Apollo on a scat surrounded
by the Muses. Hero may be seen, on the
right, Homer, Vir_il, and Dante, Sappho
addressing Petrarch. Ovid, and others.
while Pindar and Horace are in earnest
conversation. Phikaopky, or the School of '
Atltens, one of Raphael's finest works.
Here is a representation of a temple of
beautiful architecture, in which are fifty- |
two philosophers of ancient times. In the
centre, on a flight of steps, stand Plato
and Aristotle in argument. On the right
notice Archimedes tracing lines on the
floor. On the left is Pythagoras writing
on his knee ; behind him is a line figure in
a -white cloak: this is Francesco Maria
della Rovere, duke of Urbino, a great
friend of Raphael's. Notice on the steps
the half-naked figure of Diogenes. The
figures with the globes are Ptolemy and
Zoroaster, who are holding conversation
with Raphael and Perugino. Jnritfj>ru-
iliiit-c is represented over and on either
side of the window by the allegorical fig-
ures of Prudence, Temperance, and Forti-
tude.
The- next and last room is the Stan-n
of the Jnct nd'o dil' Jiory:>, designed by Ra-
phael, and finished by his pupils. The
ceiling was painted by Perugino. The
Pope wished it repainted by Raphael, but, I
out of affection for his master, he refused
to efface his work. The principal paint-
ing in this room is the destruction of that
jHirtion of Rome called the Burgus, and as
the fire approached the Vatican it was ar-
rested by the Pope by his making the sign
of the cross. The other paintings are the
Justification of Leo III. before Ckarlemagre,
the Coronation of C/tarlemagne by Leo III.,
and the Victory of Leo IV. over the Sara-
cens.
The Stanze, the same as the Museum, is
open to the public on Mondays from 12 to
3, except on holidays ; at other times a
small fee. say one franc for a party, will
gain admittance.
On the same floor with the Stanze is the
Pinacolheca, or Picture-gallery, which con-
tains but very few pictures, yet they are
more precious than any in the world.
Room 2<f: Raphael three beautiful lit-
tle gems, the Annunciation, the Adoration
of the Three Kings, and the Presentation
in the Temple. Murillo Return of the
Prodigal Son ; Marriage of St. Catharine
of Alexandria with the infant Christ.
Raphael the three Theological Virtues,
Faith, Hope, Charity.
The third room contains the three
great gems of the gallery, vi/... Raphael's
Trait* figuration, his Madonna da t'oliyno,
and Domenichino's Communion of St. Je-
rome.
The Transfiguration was the last and
greate.-t p .ir.ting of the immortal master,
painted for the Cathedral of Narbonne by
order of Cardinal Giulio de' Medici, after-
ward Clement VII. For many years the
picture was preserved in the church of St.
Pictro in Montorio, from which the French
had it removed to Paris. In 1815, on its
return, it was placed in the Vatican. The
idea throughout the piece seems to express
the miseries of human life, and lead those
who are afflicted to look to Heaven for com-
fort and relief. The upper portion of the
composition represents Mount Tal:or; on
the ground the three apo.-tles are lyinir. af-
fected by the supernatural light which pro-
ceeds from the divinity of Christ, who, ac-
companied by Moses and Elijah, is floating
in the air. On one side are nine apostles ;
a multitude of people on the other, bring-
ing to them a demoniac boy whose limbs
are dreadfully convulsed, which produces
on every countenance an expression of ter-
861
ROME.
ror. Two of the apostles point toward
heaven. The figures on the Mount of the
two prophets and the three disciples are
magnificently executed, \vhils the figure
of the Saviour is of surpassing loveliness.
Before Kaphael had finished the painting,
he was himself called away to the land of
the blessed, to behold in reality the spirit-
ual beings which inspiration had led him to
portray in such a lovely manner. He was
but 37 ; and while his body laid in state,
his last work was suspended over the
couch, and was carried before him at his
funeral while yet the last traces of his
master-hand were wet upon the canvas.
u And when all beheld
Him v.licro lie lay, How changed from yester-
day
Him in that hour cut off, and at his head
ti'.a last great work ; when, entering in, they
look'd
Now on the dead, then on that masterpiece :
Now on his face, lifeless and colorless.
Then on those forms divine that lived and
breathed,
And would live on for ages all wore moved,
And sighs burst forth, and loudest lamenta-
tions."
The Madonna da Foliyno is also very cel-
ebrated. It was painted for Sigismond
Conti in 1512. It made the journey to
Paris, and while there was transferred from
the wood to canvas.
The Communion of St. Jerome, by Do-
menichino, the acknowledged masterpiece
of that artist, and universally considered,
after the Transfiguration of Raphael, the
first painting in the world. It was orig-
inally painted for the church of Ara Coeli
at Rome, but the monks quarreled with
Domenichino, and paid him but sixty dol-
lars, placing the picture out of sight. They
afterward commissioned Poussin to paint
them a picture, and gave him the " Com-
munion" for old canvas; but he not only
insisted that it should be placed above the
high -altar, but declared to the world that,
it, the Transfiguration of Raphael, ami the
Descent from the Cross of Daniel do Yol-
terrc, were the three chcfs-d'ocuvres in
pointing. (The Descent from the Cross
is in the Santa Trinita- do Monti.)
Room 4th: Titian the Madonna and
Child surrounded by angels ; underneath
are various saints. Raphael Coronation
of the Virgin; one of his earliest works.
Sassoferrato the Virgin and Child. Room
bth r Paolo Veronese St. Helena, the
8G2
[ITALY.] ROME.
mother of Constantino, with the Vision of
the Holy Cross. Gtiido the Madonna
and Child in Glory, with St. Jerome and
St. Thomas. Correggio Christ sitting on
a rainbow surrounded by angels.
The Museum and Library are on the
first floor of the principal building ; the
last surrounds the Court of Bi-lvidere. The
entrance is near the extremity of the Gal-
lerie Lapidaria. It may be visited every-
day, except Monday, on paying a small fee.
It comprises upward of 80,000 printed
books and about 35,000 MSS. It is very
deficient in works of modern literature, but
its ecclesiastical MSS. far exceeds any oth-
er in Europe. Among the MSS. is the
celebrated Codex Vaticanus, or Bible of
the end of the 4th, or beginning of the 5th
century, in Greek. The Cicero de Repub-
lica, considered the oldest Latin MS. in ex-
istence. The Menologia Grscca. or Greek
Calendar of the 10th century. The Homi-
| lies of St. Gregory Nazianzen of the year
1063, and the four Gospels of the year 1128.
Large Hebrew Bible from the library of
the Duke of Urbino, for which an offer of
its weight in gold was made by the Jews
of Venice. A Greek version of the Acts
of the Apostles, written in gold, and pre-
sented by Charlotte, queen of Cyprus, to
Innocent VIII. The Commentaries on the
New Testament. The Breviary of Mat-
thias Corvinus. The parchment scroll of
a Greek MS. of the 8th century, fi2 feet
long, with miniatures of the history of
Joshua. Dedication copy of the Assertio
septem Sacramentorum adversus Marti-
num Lutherum, by Henry VIII. Letters
from Henry VIII. to Anna Boleyn. 17 in
number, of which 8 are in English and 9
in French.
In the library are some magnificent
vases of malachite, presented by the Em-
peror of Russia, and a fine one of Oriental
alabaster, made in Rome from a block pre-
r-ented by the Pasha of Egypt. A beauti-
ful basin in Aberdeen granite, presented by
the Duke of Northumberland to Cardinal
Antonelli, and presented by him to the li-
brary. A large vase presented by the
late Emperor of the French to Pius IX.
on the occasion of the baptism of the heir
to the imperial throne: it is of Sevres
porcelain, covered with Christian emblems.
The Miiseo Cfiitirinnnnti was founded by
Pius VII., whose family runic it bears. It
[ITALY.]
ROME.
was arranged by Canova, and includes 700
examples.
We first enter the Corridors of Inscrip-
ti'int, I'.'il yards in length, occupied by an-
cient sepulchral monuments and inscrip-
tions, rearranged l>y Pius VII. On the
right are the Pagan inscriptions, and on
the left those of parly Christ!. in days. The
collection consists of 3000 specimens ; they
are frequently V.TV touching. Each in-
scription is accompanied by a symbolical
representation.
Mtiseo Chiaramonti, arranged by Canova,
contains a very large number of specimens
of ancient sculpture: a sarcophagus of C.
.'. Kvhodus, and of his wife Metilia Acte,
priestess of Cybole, found at < >stia ; sitting
statue of Tiberius ; bust of the young Au-
gustus, found at Ostia by Mr. Fagan, the
British consul, in the beginning of the
present century, representing the emperor
at the age of 14 (most beautifully exe-
cuted, and so attractive that the celebrated
modern sculptors dwell with the greatest
admiration upon its remarkable beauty);
sitting statue of Tiberius, found at Piperno
remarkable of its kind; Sabina, wife of
Hadrian, as Venus, familiar from the de-
scription of Visconti ; a graceful statue of
Mercury, found near the Monte di Piet;\ ;
a bas-relief representing Bacchus riding
on a Tiger; the Virgin Tutia, whose chas-
tity was proved by her carrying water
from the Tiber to the Temple of Vesta in
a sieve.
The Braccio JVworo. This part of the
Museum was commenced by Pius VII. in
1817. The hall is 261 feet long, and is
well lighted from the roof.
Xt/ttucs and BmU. Silcnus nursing the
infant Bacchus ; bust of Claudius ; statue
of Titus ; statue of a Faun playing on a
Flute; bust of Trajan ; statue of Diana be-
holding with terror the dead Endymion ;
statue of Demosthenes, found near the vil-
la Aldobrandini : Athlete, found in the
Vieolo delle Polina, in the Trastevere. in
1*1!'. near where the Bronze Horse in the
Capitoline Museum was discovered; bust
of the young Marcus Aurelins ; the Emper-
or Gordian the Elder; statue of the Fight-
ing Amazon; statue of Diana, found at
the Villa Adriana, bust of Lucius Anto-
nius, brother of Marc Antony ; the Venus
Anadyomene ; a beautiful and finely pre-
served statue, found at Ostia, of Fortune,
wearing a veil over the back of the head
as an indication of her mysterious origin ;
the Minerva Medica, of Parian marble, one
of the finest statues in Home, beautifully
draped. One of the grandest figures in the
Vatican is the colossal group of the Nile ;
antique copy of the Faun of Praxiteles,
which furnished the suggestion for Haw-
thorne's exquisite story ; splendid statue
of Mercury, recognized by Canova in the
garden of the Quirinal, where it formerly
stood, and by him removed to the Vatican.
Museo Pio Clementina derives its name
from Pius VI. and Clement XIV., the most
magnificent museum of ancient sculpture
in the world. The Torso Belvidere, sculp-
tured by Apollonius, has commanded the
admiration of the most renowned sculptors
of modern times. The sarcophagus of L.
Scipio Barbatus, a celebrated relic of re-
publican IJoma: the Latin inscription is de-
cidedly the most ancient which has been
handed down to us. 2000 years after the
deatli of Scipio Barbatus the sarcoph-
agus was opened and the skeleton found
perfect, with u ring on one of the fingers :
the ring was taken to England, where it
was preserved in the collection of the Earl
of Beverley. The bones were removed to
Padua in 1781.
Rotunda or Circular Hall. In the cen-
tre is a grand basin in porphyry, 40 feet in
circumference, found in the Baths of Dio-
cletian ; statue of Xerva ; statue of a fe-
male draped and restored as Ceres ; Clau-
dius crowned with oak-leaves. A most
beautiful vi w miy be had of Pome from
this part of the Vatican, which generally
goes by the name of Belvidere.
Xext we enter the Chamber of '^feleayer,
so called from the celebrated statue of Mc-
leager with the boar's head and dog.
Next we enter the Court <if Bihkltre.
This court, built in an octagon form by
Bramnvinte, is surrounded by a portico
supported by 1C granite columns. In the
four cabinets are the four chefs-d'oeuvre of
the Vatican. The first cabinet cont lins the
l'<-rti'itt, and the Creuga-* and Daiimxeiius
by Cnnova ; the second, the Ijt-.'ritl n> An-
tin'iii.t; the third the Laocoon, which Pliny
says "is a work exceeding all that the arts
of painting and sculpture have ever pro-
duced."
''Or, turnii g tn the Vatican, go Fee
Jjnocoon's torture dignify!' ^ p;iin
803
ROME.
[ITALY.]
ROME.
A father's love and mortal's agony
With an immortal's patience blending : vain
The struggle"; vain against the coiling strain,
And gripe, and deepening of the dragon's
grasp,
The old man's clench; the long envenomed
chain
Rivets the living links the enormous asp
Enforces pang on pang, and stifles gasp on gasp."
At the time of its discovery, the excite-
ment produced l>y the event was described
in a curious letter written by Caesar Tri-
vulzio to his brother Pomponio, July 1st,
1506. Michael Angelo was then in Rome,
and pronounced it the wonder of art. Ac-
cording to a vote of the Senate, the whole
group was carved out of a single block by
Agesander, Polydorus, and Athenagoras,
sculptors of the highest class, and natives
of Rhodes.
The fourth cabinet contains the Apollo
Belvidere, found at Antium at the end of
the loth century.
" Or view the lord of the unerring bow,
The god of life, and poesy, and light
The sun in human limbs array'd, and brow
All radiant from his triump'i in the light :
The shaft hath just been snot the arrow
bright,
With an immortal's vengeance; in hia eye
And nostril beautiful disdain, and might
And majesty flash their full lightnings by,
Developing in that one glance the Deity."
Before entering into the Hall of Animals
notice the two splendid sarcophagi from
the Baths of Caracalla. The Hall of A ni-
mals is divided into two parts by a vesti-
bule which leads from the octagonal court
to the Hall of the Muses. It is paved in
antique mosaics. Both rooms contain many
exquisite gems.
Gallery of Statues. Half figure in Pa-
rian marble, supposed to be the Cupid of
Praxiteles, called the Genius of the Vati-
can. The Amazon is one of the finest
statues in the collection. The celebrated
statue of Ariadne, formerly called Cleo-
patra, from the resemblance which the
bracelet bears to a serpent ; a statue of
Lucius Verus. In the centre of the hall
is a large bust, discovered near the church
of Santi Apostoli at Rome, composed of
beautiful Oriental alabaster. Hull <>f the
Busts, Cabinet of the Masks, and Hatt of the
Muses, will all be found to contain many
interesting works.
Hall of the Greek Cross, with beautiful
modern doorways ornamented by colossal
Egyptian statues found in Hadrian's villa.
864
The principal objects of attraction in this
hall are the two sarcophagi of immense
size in fact, the largest ever made of red
Egyptian porphyry. One of them is the
sarcophagus of Constantia, daughter of
Constantino, who died A.D. 354 ; the other
is of the Empress Helena.
Hall of the Biff a, deriving its name from
the ancient chariot on two wheels, in white
marble, which stands in the centre of it ;
statue of Alcibiades, with lii.s foot resting
on a helmet ; bearded Bacchus, or Sarda-
napalus ; the Discobolus of Myron, found
at the Villa Adriana.
The Etruscan Museum, open every day,
except Monday, from 10 till 2, by apply-
ing to the custodc at the entrance of the
Museo Chiaramonti. The Egyptian Mu-
seum will also be found very interesting.
The LATEHAN MUSEUM is opened by a
fee to each of the two custodes. It con-
tains an antique and a Christian gallery,
and a few pictures, with a series of terra-
cotta busts of North American Indians by
a German artist, who modeled them from
life.
The QCIRINAL PALACE may be seen by
order, to be obtained from the consul. It
contains in the apartments some fine pic-
tures.
PRIVATE PALACES.
There are no less than 75 of these palaces,
which constitute one of the characteristic
features of Rome, and of which an attempt
at description would be unsatisfactory.
Palazzo Borghe.se. The gallery of this
palace, containing over 800 paintings, and
some of them the richest in Rome, is open
every Monday, Wednesdaj% and Friday,
from 9 until 3. It is situated in the
piazza of the Fame name. The paint-
ings are arranged in 12 different rooms, in
each of which are catalogues for the use
of visitors.
Raphael the Entombment of Christ,
painted in the artist's 24th year ; Caesar
Borgia; portrait of Raphael himself in his
youth; Julius II. Leonardo da Vinci the
Saviour. Titian Sacred and Profane Love ;
the Three Graces ; Samson ; Holy Family
with St. John. Paul Veronese St. An-
tony preaching to the Fishes ; St. John
preaching in the Desert. Domenichino
Chase of Diana; the Cumaean Sibyl. An-
drea del Sarto Holy Family ; Venus and
KOMI;.
[ITALY.]
ROME.
Cupid ; the Magdalen. Magnificent works '
of many other celebrated artists are here
displayed. Catalogues are provided for
the use of visitors, consequently it is use- i
less to give a list of the different works.
Palazzo Colonna, at one time the resi-
dence of Julius II., and aftcrwaul of San j
Carlo when Cardinal Borromeo. A por-
tion of the state apartments now form the
residence of the French erabassador. The
picture-gallery, at one time the most cel-
ebrated in Koine, still contains some fine
works, and is open every day except holi-
days.
Palazzo Corsini, in the 17th century the
residence of Christine, queen of Sweden,
who died in it in the year 1689. A noble
double staircase leads to the gallery, which
is open every day except Sunday from 11
to 3. The Corsini Library, open every
day, except on festivals, for three hours
each day. There are 60,000 printed books
and 1300 MSS. The principal portion of
this palace is occupied by the French em-
bassador. There is a beautiful garden at-
tached which contains numerous antiq-
uities.
Palazzo Doria-Pamfti, in the Corso, is
the most magnificent of all the Roman
palaces ; rich in works of art. Gallery
open on Tuesday and Friday from 10 to 2 ;
fee fr. ; it contains about 800 pictures.
Catalogues are printed for visitors. Ra-
phael- portraits of Baldo and Bartolo.
Titian Sacrifice of Isaac ; portrait of Ti-
tian's wife. Leonardo da Vinci a lovely
portrait of Joanna II. of Aragon, queen of
Naples. Claude Mercury stealing the
Cattle of Apollo ; the celebrated Molivo ;
Flight into Egypt. Guercino the Prodi-
gal Son ; Endymion ; St. Agnes. Annibal
Caracci the Assumption ; Flight into
Egypt ; the Nativity ; Adoration of the
Magi, and the Entombment of our Saviour.
These paintings are among the finest of
the collection, although there are many
others by the first artists. The Sciarra
Gallery is shown no more.
I'alnzzo Farnese. Friday, from 12 to 2.
The architecture of this palace is by far
the finest in Rome. It is the property of
the ex-King of Naples, by whose family it
was inherited as the descendants of Eliz-
abeth Farnese. This palace contains the
frescoes of An. Caracci, his finest work,
which occupied his own time and that of his
pupils for eight years. They are in a room
on the first floor.
Pa'azzo Farnesina, formerly the proper-
ty of the King of Naples. It acquired
great celebrity during the reign of Leo X.
as the residence of Agostino Chigi. He
gave an entertainment here in 1518 to Leo
X., the cardinals and embassadors, which
was the most costly banquet of the times ;
some idea may be formed of the expense
when it is related that three fish which
were served up amounted to 250 crowns.
Of the numerous other palaces, one of
the most remarkable is the Palazzo Barbe-
rini. It is extensive, has a magnificent
staircase, one of the finest in Rome ; also
an interesting library, celebrated for its
MSS., which amount to 7000, collected
principally by Cardinal Francesco Barbe-
rini, nephew of Urban VIII. It is open
daily, except Sunday and Thursday, from
2 to 5. Librarj- on Thursday, from 9 to 2.
Contains among its most interesting works
letters and papers of Galileo, Cardinal Bel-
larmine, Benedetto Castelli, Bembo, Delia
Casa, and the official reports on the state
of Catholicism in England during the reign
of Charles I., addressed to Urban VIII. ;
copy of the Bible in a Samaritan charac-
ter; several MSS. of Dante; a Greek MS.
of the Liturgies of St. Basil of the 7th or
8th century. There are 50,000 printed
books, containing autograph notes of cele-
brated personages. Among the pictures
is the famous portrait of Beatrice Cenri.
J'alczz!) Xpiulit (picture-gallery and an-
tiquities, Monday, Wednesday, and Sat-
urday from 10 to 3) is also celebrated,
possessing as it docs the statue of Pompey,
which is its chief treasure. This figure,
11 feet high, composed of Greek marble,
has been regarded for about 2000 j-ears as
the identical statue which stood in the
Curia of Pompey, at whose base " great
Ctcsar fell."
" And thou, dread statue ! yet existent in
The HiistiTcat form of naked majesty
Thmi wlio behelde.-t, 'mid the assassins' din,
At tliv bathed tia-o the foluody < 'a?->;ir lie:
Folding his robe in dyintr diirnity,
An offering to thine almr from the queen
of iTi'ds :u .1 men. ;;ivat Nemesis I did he die,
And thou too perish. Pompoy ? have ye boen
Victors of countless kings, or jmppeis of a
scene 5"
The statue was found in 1550, the body on
one person's property and the legs on an-
665
ROME.
[ITALY.]
ROME.
other's. It was bought by the pope, Jul-
ias III., and presented to Cardinal Capodi-
ferro.
Palazzo Rospigliosi. This palace was for
many years the residence of the French
embassadors ; it then passed into the hands
of the Rospigliosi family. It was origi-
nally erected by Cardinal Scipio Borghese
on the site of the Thermae of Constantine.
On the ceiling of one of the galleries be-
longing to this palace is the celebrated
fresco of Guido, considered his master-
piece, and alluded to by Byron in his Don
Juan, in which he says
"Alone
Is worth a tour to Rome."
The chief ambition of Gnido was to
express his feelings in his paintings ; to
"hold the mirror up to nature" in truth,
it would seem; for, when composing his
"Crucifixion," now at Bologna, so anxious
was he to transfer to canvas the unmis-
takable expression of dying agony, that
in a frenzied moment he seized a knife
and plunged it into the heart of a helpless
victim who was bound to a cross to rep-
resent the dying Saviour. Guido was fur-
nished with the agonizing expression that
he so much wished for, completed his pict-
ure, and fled the same night, when con-
sciousness was restored, and he discovered
that he had really murdered a fellow-be-
ing. In about three days after this occur-
rence he was missed, and his studio was
broken open ; the corpse was found in a
state of decomposition, still bound to the
cross ; there, too, was the painting, testify-
ing most truthfully to the sickening crime.
After years of exile Guido was allowed to
return to Rome and resume his art, for the
loss of myriads of models could be better
endured than the talents of such an artist,
" of whose death Canova said that heaven
gained at the expense of earth." This gal-
lery is open Wednesday and Saturday,
from 9 to 4.
The Musfo Kircheriano, situated in the
College Romano (ladies not admitted). The
collection of antiquities is only interesting
to an archaeologist. There is an observa-
tory here of considerable notoriety. When
the sun attains the meridian, a signal is
given here daily to the castle of St. Angelo,
which fires a cannon.
The gallery of the ACADEMY OF ST.
LUKE is one of the best collections, though
8G6
small, and contains a most interesting land,
scape by Titian ; also one of Claude's chefi
d'oeuvres, a Seaport
Mnnu factory of Mosaics. Visitors can
be admitted daily by an order, which can
be procured through their bankers. F.v-
ery one who has been interested in the mo-
saics of St. Peter's would probably be
pleased in witnessing the manufacturing
of them before leaving the Vatican. 'I he
number of enamels of different colors em-
ployed in these works amounts to 10,000.
The Gardens of the Vatican are open
daily, and will be found quite interesting.
The American Legation is No. 472 Corso.
The manufactures of Rome are by no
means extensive; quite a number of hands
are employed in manufacturing mosaics
and jewelry of various kinds. There are
many Charitable Institutions, all of which
seem to be well patronized.
Rome has numerous villa?!, both within
and without its walls, built chietiy by
wealthy cardinals, who have spared no ex-
pen.-e in adorning them in the most mag-
niiiccnt style.
Among those most worth}' of particular
notice is the Villa Albani, built in the mid-
dle of the last century by Cardinal Ales-
sandro Albani, from a design of his own.
It is rich in works of art, possessing the
third best collection next to the Botanical
Museum and the Capitol. It has charm-
ing grounds, laid out with perfect taste.
The most important specimens of art are
to be found in the Casino and Coffee-
house. Among the statues remarkable
are those of Julius Caesar, Agrippina, Au-
gustus, and Faustina. Busts of Alexander
the Great, Scipio Africanus, Hannibal, Ho-
mer, and Epicurus. Bas-reliefs of Antoni-
us crowned with the lotus-flower, Diogenes
in a large jar receiving Alexander. The
bronze Apollo Sanrocthonos, supposed to
be the original by Praxiteles. Visitors
are admitted into the villa on Tuesdays,
except in wet weather, from 11 till dusk.
Villa Borffhese.Open to the public ev-
ery day at 12 o'clock except Monday, and
ROME.
[ITALY.]
ROME.
the Casino on Saturday after 3 P.M. during
the summer months, and from 1 until 4
o'clock in winter. This is cue of the fa-
vorite resorts of the Roman citizens iu
summer ; the gardens are laid out with
great taste. The Casino, formerly used a.s
a summer residence, has now been con-
verted into a museum of statuary. The
statue of the Princess Paulina Borghese,
sister of the first Napoleon, l>y Cauova, who
has represented her as the Venus Victrix,
is one of the finest specimens in the collec-
tion. On each floor catalogues may be ob-
tained by applying to the custodian. In the
upper portion of the grounds was situated
the Villa 01_:iata, or Casino Raphael, dec-
orated in frescoes, medallions, and ara-
besques, with all the delicate fancy and
beauty of design at all times displayed by
this artist. In another portion of the park
is the fac-simile of a small Roman temple
dedicated to Faustina.
Villa Lwlovisi contains a collection of
ancient sculpture. It is at present occu-
pied by the Countess Mirafiore, the wife
of the king, and is only shown in her
absence. The grounds are extensive, and
laid out most tastefully with fine drives
and beautiful shrubber}' box, evergreen
oaks, and cypress are in great perfec-
tion, and near the entrance are specimens
of the Platanus Orientalis, about the
largest of the species now existing. The
villa was built by the nephew of Pope
Gregory XV. The Casino, on the left,
was built from designs of Domenichino,
and contains some line antique statues:
the principal one is that of Mars. The
Aurora of Guercino and the frescoes of
Domenichino are the principal attractions.
PamjiH-Itoria one of the most ex-
tensive of the Roman villas, the grounds
exceeding four miles in circuit; they are
thrown open at all hours and at all seasons
of the year ; they are laid out in gardens,
avenues, and terraces, planted with the
lofty pines which grow so luxuriantly in
every part of Rome, and which add great-
ly to the beauty of this spot. In these*
grounds, in 1849, Garibaldi, with the Re-
publican troops, maintained his position
against the. whole force of the French
army. Xear the villa has been erected a
church, decorated with Corinthian col-
umns, for the use of the family : here also
has lately been raised^by Prince Deri*, at
the extreme end of one of the avenues of
evergreen oaks, a handsome monument to
the French who fell in the struggle around
the villa. A great deal of taste has been
di.-played in the selection of it. Monday
and Friday, after one o'clock. Two-horse
carriages only admitted.
Vila PalatitM was built on the ruins
of the house of Augustus. In the portico
are several frescoes by Raphael, represent-
ing Venus and the Nymphs. In the gar-
den may be seen the ruins of an ancient
wrestling-place. They are finely laid out.
Villa Wolkonsky, shown from 2 to 4 on
Wednesday and Saturday. Permits ob-
tained from your banker. The other villas
are of less importance, but still quite beau-
tiful.
EXCURSIONS ix THE Exviuoxs OF ROME.
The objects of interest outside the walls
may be seen en route for the various ex-
cursions we should advise the traveler to
take.
The VIA APPIA, which leads to A/bano,
Ariccin, etc., is lined with objects of inter-
est. The TOMB OF SCIPIO, the COLUM-
BARIA, the ARCH OF DRCSUS, we have
mentioned, and all lie within the walls.
Outside are numerous tombs, of which
nothing certain is known, with masses of
imperial ruins, which only interest from
their being mementoes of the day of Rome's
greatness and pride. This church of Dom-
ine quo Vailis, standing on the spot where
( 'hrist is traditionally said to have met Pe-
ter and Paul fleeing from Rome, contains
the copy of his footprints in stone. The
church of St. Si-bastion, farther on, con-
tains the veritable footprints, and marks the
site of the Catacombs of that saint, which
are interred here. As we approach tho
first considerable elevation on the Via Ap-
pia, we find at the foot of it the ruins of
the Circus built by MaxeiUius in honor of
his ."on Ro.Mri.rs. They arc .extensive,
and show the character of those structures
better than any other one. On the brow
of the hill is the tomL of CKCII.IA MKTF.L-
LA, the best prcMTved of all the sepulchral
monuments of any importance. The bat
tlements on it aiv .Middle Age additions,
and, like the walls inclosing it and the
ground beyond it. were added for the pur-
pose of defense by the C attain?. From this
point nearly all the way to Albanc are ru-
867
ROME.
[ITALY.]
ROME.
ins of tombs, of which some are of immense
size ; but, excepting one, on which is built
a farm-house, and an olive orchard is plant-
ed, all are in a most ruinous state, for the
large stones have been takeii away for
building purposes. Some interesting in-
scriptions have been dug up, among which
is one of the family of Pompey. They are
secured in masonry, and will repay the
reader of Roman history for the two or
three hours' stroll necessary to see them.
ALBANO is a charming town on the side
of the Alban Hills, and overlooking the
lake of the same name. Railway in one
hour ; fare, 3 fr. 20 c. One may spend the
night there, or find horses for the ride to
Ariccia, Nemi, up to Mt. Ctivo, and thence
over to Frascati, passing the site of the an-
cient Tusculum. From Frascati we may
return by railway, or the carriages may be
ordered over from Albano, and we may re-
turn by the road passing through Grotta
Ferrata, a town celebrated for its annual
fair, which is held early in April ; then
by the extensive and picturesque ruins of
the VILLA of the QUINTILLII, and along
the line of the aqueducts, under which we
pass, by the Porta Fwba, to enter the city
by the Porta S. Giovanni.
Going out of the Porta S. Giovanni, and
taking the right-hand road where the roads
divide half a mile outside the walls, we
have a most interesting drive, visiting the
painted tombs on the Via Latina, and about
three miles out we come to the noble line
of CLAUDIAN AQUEDUCTS, so called, al-
though the line of arches carried three
aqueducts the MAKCIAN, B.C. 145, the
CLAUDIAN, and ANIO Novus, about A.D.
50. The arches now standing are proba-
bly of the earlier date, but much repaired,
and in later times in large part incased in
brick, of which some of the casings remain
still. Nearly opposite the farther end of
the line of arches we come to a smaller line
of brick arches, -which were probably for
the supplying some villa of the imperial
times with water. At a point a little near-
er the city than this last line is a road
which leads back to the city at the right,
and which will take us past the interest-
ing remains of the ancient TEMPLE and
SACRED GROVE OF BACCHUS, erroneous-
ly called the grove and temple of Egeria.
This temple, like all others, is turned into
a. church. We pass the Circus of Maxen-
868
tius on the left, and enter the city by the
Sebastian gate.
Another pleasant ride is over the left-
hand road out of the Porta Maggiore, the
ancient Via Prenestina, and still in travel-
ing state to Pa'ettrina, the ancient Prse-
neste; distance 22 miles from Rome. Take
the railway to Frascati ; thence by carriage
(12 miles). (The modern road to PALES-
TRINA is by the right-hand fork, the Via
Labicana going to the ancient LABICUM,
now Colonna.) Two miles out of the gate
we come to a rising land, over which the
road passes, and from which may be had the
most satisfactory view of the Campagna,
looking toward Mts. Gennaro and Tivoli.
The ruins at the left, just beyond this, are
the remains of a Gordian villa known as
the TORRI DI SCHIAVI. A little farther
on, a road branching to the left leads to
Lunghezza, a charming valley on the An io.
The excursion to Tivoli is one of the most
delightful of those to be made from Rome.
The distance is 16 miles ; carriages, 35 and
40 fr. Make it perfectly understood with
the driver that Hadrian's Villa be visited
en route. One should start early in the
morning to make this excursion. Visitors
generally bring their lunch with them, and
partake of it in the temple in view of the
falls. The Via Tiburtina, going through the
Porta S. Lorenzo, crosses the Anio by the
Ponte Mammolo, a Roman bridge, of which
the principal arch was blown up by the
French in 1849, to prevent the bringing in
of powder from Tivoli during the siege.
About ten miles out we leave at our left
an extensive Middle Age ruin, formerly
a fortress for brigands. As we approach
Tivoli we pass through a volcanic region,
the air of which is filled with the exhala-
tions of numerous sulphur springs. Here
were the hot baths of Agrippa. Before
crossing the Anio again we turn off on a
small by-road at the ,right to visit the
ruins of the Villa of Hadrian, the most pict-
uresque and interesting of all the imperial
remains in the neighborhood of Rome. We
pass the Anio by the Ponte Lucano, so
called from a circular tomb, called that of
LCCAXCS, or of the PLAUTII, on which is
an interesting inscription. Those who stop
at Tivoli should by all means go to the
Sibyl, a fair country inn, and generally
reasonable in price.
The Via Nomentana, going out of the
ROME.
[ITALY.]
ROME.
Porta Pia, crosses the Anio by the POXTE
NOMENTAXA, a picturesque fortified bridge
of the Middle Ayes, near which is oue of
those liistirical sites by which Rome is
surrounded the Moxs SACEU, where the
plebeians took refuge during the great se-
cession movement which resulted in the
recognition of popular rights. It is the
elevation beyond the Anio and on the right
of the road. This revolution will be re-
membered as the occasion of the narrating
the fable of the Belly and Members, which
i* fiMrdto have reconciled the people with
the Senate, B.C. 493.
Another pleasant excursion may be made
to Veil (the Etruscan city which was ten
years besieged by Camillas) by the Via
Cassia, crossing the Ponte Molle. The re-
mains of Veil are very slight two bridges
and the ruins of some gates only ; but the
site is one of the most beautiful imagina-
ble for an inland city, and the country
thereabout is the most picturesque and
wild in the vicinity of Rome. Carriage
for the day, 30 fr. The distance is twelve
miles from Rome.
A guide will be found at Isola Farnose,
a small village occupying what was once
the Necropolis. There is near Veii an
Etruscan tomb, which has been left in the
state in which it was originally found. Six
miles out is the tomb of Vibius Marianus.
Seven miles out, on the Via Flaminia,
are the excavations at PRIMA PORTA of a
rilla of Livia, where was found the statue
of Augustus, lately added to the Vatican
collection, and where are the finest mural
paintings of the imperial epoch yet found.
A pleasant excursion in the spring is
that to Osti'i, where are excavations of
great interest, and near which is the fa-
mous forest of Castel Fusano, a magnificent
grove of stone pines, in which is the forti-
fied villa which gives name to the forest.
Parties making this excursion should carry
lunch with them. Carriage, 30 fr. The
distance is 14 miles from Rome. Stipulate
that the driver must take Castel Fusano
on the way. On the road is one of the
best-preserved bridges of the republican
period, though repaired in the imperial
times, and now unused, from a late injury
yet unrepaired.
A day will be well spent in a visit to
Seyni, the ancient Signia, a Pelasgic town,
the walls of which are still in excellent
VOL. II. P
preservation, including six of the original
gates. The Naples railroad passes within
a short distance of the city, and a vettura
waits the arrival of both the early and late
trains from Rome.
The studios of Rome are mostly visitable
any day : the hours preferred are after 3
P.M. Any exceptions to this will be noted
with the notice of the studios in the follow-
ing list. The studios of American artists
are as follows : Sculpture Miss Foley, por-
traitist in marble and cameo. M. 1 land-
Icy, 29 Via Babuino : principal works, a
Diana, a Faun, and a Madonna, executed
for one of the religious establishments of
Rome. Miss Hosmer, 5 Via Margutta;
reception-day, Tuesday, which is strictly
adhered to: the Zenobia, Puck, and a se-
ries of bas-reliefs for a bronze door, and a
design for a fountain, are at present the
principal works in the studio. Ives, 39
Babuino : Pandora, Rebekah at the Well,
the Young Shepherd, Cupid mending his
Net, a large Indian group, Sans Souci, and
a colossal statue of the late Bishop Brown-
ell, of Hartford, Connecticut, which is to
be erected in bronze in his native city a
splendid figure. Rogers, 53 Margutta. The
visitor will find here the models of the huge
gates for the great entrance of the Capitol
at Washington : the colossal figures for the
Virginia monument to Washington ; the
Sentinel, for the Soldiers' monument at
Cincinnati ; Nydia, the Blind Girl of Pom-
peii ; several Indian subjects; the Angel
of the Resurrection. Rinehart, 68 Via Sis-
tina : Woman of Samaria, Latona and her
Children, the models for the bronze gates
of the Chamber of Representatives. Story..
14 Via S. Niccolo da Tolentino. Besides
the Sibyl and Cleopatra, exhibited at the
London Exhibition, and well known, there
are in Mr. Story's studio the Sappho, Ju-
dith, Saul, a colossal portrait of President
Quincy, and a repetition, with modiiica-
tions, of the Cleopatra, and a bust of Mrs.
Browning, from memory. Miss Stehhins,
Vicolo del Basilico ; reception-day, Wednes-
day : Joseph the Dreamer, a colossal head
of Satan, and a statue of Columbus, with
bas-reliefs from his life. Hazeltine, 29
Babuino: his principal works are, Amer-
ica honoring her fallen Brave, New Wine,
Excelsior, Improvisator, Superstition, and
groups of Spring and Autumn.
The American figure painters are Free-
869
ROME. [ITALY.]
man, 68 Via de Capo le Case; Terry,
23 Via Margutta; Chapman, 135 Babu-
ino. The landscape painters are Tilton,
20 Via S. Basilico; Ropes, 53 Via Mar-
gutta.
Antonio Rosetti, 54 Via Margutta. He
has been immortalized by Victor Hugo's
notice of his Esmeralda, which is one of
his finest productions. His Sale of Loves,
Ophelia, Chastity, and Ingenuousness, are
liis principal works. He has just completed
two beautiful figures, viz., the Genius of the
Telegraph and the Genius of the Railroad,
" Love Triumphant," etc., etc.
The most eminent artists of other na-
tions are Macdonald and Adams, English
sculptors. P.Williams, Poingdestre, Cap-
tain Younge, and Coleman, English paint-
ers. German Wolf and Kolberg, sculp-
tors ; Riedel and Brandt, painters. Italian
Tadolini, Rinaldi, and Benzoni, sculptors ;
Mazzolini and Cortazzi, painters (mostly
of copies). Bompiani has a good reputa-
tion as a portraitist, especially in colored
crayons. W. S. Haseltine, No. 32 Vicolo
de Greci, has also a good reputation.
Bankers. Afaquay, Hooker, $ Co., Pi-
azza di Spagna, cash letters of credit, cir-
cular notes, and drafts, store or forward
goods, and obtain tickets to museums, gal-
leries, villas, etc.
Bookseller. ^fr. Plale keeps on hand a
large stock of the latest books, newspapers,
photographs, etc., and has a reading-room
and circulating library; he is agent for
Harper's European Guides.
ROME.
The time during which residence in
Rome is healthful and pleasant is much
870
misunderstood, and absurd notions prevail
as to malaria, etc. Cases of fever are rare
in Home at midsummer even ; and, with
proper attention to the habits adopted by
the natives, the summer may be passed
safety and even pleasantly in the city.
August and September are the only months
in which the traveler will be inconven-
ienced by the season, and then the towns
on the Alban Hills afford a charming ref-
uge. May and early June are the most
delightful seasons in Rome, and October
for the vicinity. In August and Septem-
ber the Campagna is unhealthy from the
excessive heat of the day and the chill of
the night ; but even at this season there is
no more fever in Rome than in New York.
Rome is not a desirable climate for pulmo-
nary diseases ; and the superstitious dread
of the disease entertained by the Romans
makes it a most unpleasant place for con>
sumptives unless surrounded by friends.
The traveler is particularly cautioned,
on leaving Rome for Naples, to be careful
he does not fall asleep in the cars, also for
some hours before liis arrival at Rome, as
the malaria is most insidious when its vic-
tim is asleep. This caution particularly
applies to persons who are fatigued at the
end of a seven hours' ride from Naples, and
are most likely to fall asleep during the
onlv dangerous part of the journey the
Roman Campagna. On all subjects con-
nected with fever or other diseases, Com-
mandeur Pantaleone, M.D., formerly of
Nice, and one of the first scholars of Eu-
rope, may be consulted. His address is
Palazzo Valdembrini, 102 Ripetta. Anoth-
er first-class Italian physician is Dr. G. Fe-
deli, Physician in Extraordinary to the
Private Hospital of St. Giovanni di Deo,
44 Via Borgognona. Also Dr. Percy de la
Roche, of considerable American repute.
His leading specialty lies in the treatment
of diseases of the throat. His address may
be obtained at the leading bankers' and
hotels.
Lodgings are to be had at reasonable
rates early in the season ; after the end of
October most of the eligible rooms are
taken, and by the 1st of January it is diffi-
cult to get rooms. The prices range from
$30 to $120 per month, furnished, and with
ordinary attendance ; for $40 to $75 a good
suite of rooms may be obtained, sufficient
for a family of five persons, and with a
ROME.
[ITALY.]
SAN GERMAXO.
sunny exposure (and no others should be
taken at any price).
Carriages will cost from $90 to $110 per
month for the winter season, including an
open and a closed carriage, and a change
of horses each day. A vettura for the
country, from 25 fr. to 40 fr.
Should any Americans wish to be pre-
sented to the Pope, they must make appli-
cation, through their minister, to the grand
chamberlain ^fimsignore Maestro di Ca-
mera). After a few days they may receive
notice at what day and hour they will be
received. Gentlemen are received (either
in uniform or in evening dress) in the pri-
vate apartments of the Pope, and ladies on
Sundays, in one of the halls of the Vat KM n,
ladies only of royal blood being admitted
into the Pope's apartments : they must ap-
pear in black dresses and veils, punctual to
the hour. Gentlemen are ushered into the
Pope's apartments separately. It is cus-
tomary for Protestants to kiss the Pope's
hand on being presented ; Roman Catholics
kiss his knee or foot. The presentation of
ladies is generally in the same style as at
other courts.
There are several good theatres in T?ome.
The principal are the Teatro Apollo and the
Teatro Costunzi; Teatro Argentina, Teulro
Valle Capranica, Qtririno, Metastasio, and
Valletta.
Some to Paris. Time, 42 h. 33 m. ; fare,
first class, 186 fr. 80 c. ; second class, 137
fr. 45 c.
Rome to Flurence (express). Time, 8
hours; fare, tirst class, 34 fr. 50 c. ; second
class, 23 fr. 70 c.
Rome to \aples. Time, 6 h. 57 m. ; fare,
first class, 28 fr. 35 c. ; second class, 19 fr.
92 c.
ROUTE No. 222.
Rome to Naples, via Albano, VtUetri,
Frosinone, Ceprano, Capua, and Caterta.
Time, 6 h. 35m.; fare, first class (ex-
' press), 28 fr. 75 c. Ordinary trains, 10
hours ; fare, first class, 28 fr. 75 c. ; second
class, 19 fr. 90 c.
Albano is described in excursions from
Rome. Velletri (hotel, Gallo) is seen on a
height to the left. Passing through the
{ valley of Sacco, remains of the ancient
j Signia may be seen on the right. This
was a fortress built by the last of the Tar-
quiiis.
On the height on the left stands the
town of Anagni (hotel, <V Italie). for many
years a papal residence. The surroundings
are picturesque, but there is nothing special
to be seen.
Three miles from the line is situated the
modern town of Ferentino, the Ferentinum
of the ancients. It contains 10,000 inhab-
itants, and numerous remains of the an-
cient fortress and walls are yet to be seen.
Hotel, des Stringers. Some nine miles
higher up stands the town of Alatri, the
ancient Alatrium. The walls of its an-
cient castle are still most perfect.
Frosiaone, some distance from the station,
contains 10,000 inhabitants. There are but
j few remains of this ancient fortress.
Ceprano, formerly the frontier town be-
i tween the Italian and Roman states. There
is a good bujfet here.
San Germnno. Hotel, Cation. This is
the usual stopping-place for travelers who
wish to pay a visit to the monastery of
Xfont" Casino, situated about 1J hours from
the town. Donkeys, 2 fr.
The monastery is one of the oldest and
most celebrated in Europe : it was found-
ed by St. Benedict in 529, on the site of a
temple of Apollo. The interior of the
church is decorated with paintings, sculpt-
ure, and mosaic. The library contains
10,000 valuable volumes ; but its great
wealth is in its MSS., executed by its own
members a series of papal bulls, documents
of emperors, kings, and other rulers for six
hundred years. There are over two hun-
dred students now being educated in the
; monastery. Travelers are entertained
' liberally, but ladies can only enter the
j church ; consequently, if there be any
lady visitors, they must expect to return
to the town the same day.
Cli.s.- by the monastery rises Monte
Cairo, 5000 feet high.
Passing the station Teano, near which
is situated the ancient Cues, a Roman col-
871
CASEKTA.
[ITALY.]
TERKACINA.
ony which produced the vinum Calenum,
a wine much praised by Horace.
Capua is reached. Hotel, della Posta. It
contains 10,000 inhabitants, and was built in
the 9th century. After the destruction of
the ancient Capua, which was founded by
the Etruscans, and during the Second Punic
War, when it formed an alliance with Han-
nibal, it contained 300,000 inhabitants, and
was the second city in Italy. After the
Carthaginians were conquered, the Ro-
mans almost destroyed the city. Caesar,
however, restored it in a measure to its
former splendor, but in the 8th century it
was razed to the ground by the Saracens.
The ancient amphitheatre outside the
town is the most remarkable ruin : it was
capable of containing 100,000 spectators,
and was the most ancient in Italy ; very
little but the substructure remains.
Caserta. Hotels, Victoria and Stella
(Tltalie. The town is neat and well built.
Population, 11,500. The principal object
of attraction is the Royal Palace, erected
in 1752 by King Charles III. from de-
signs by Vanviltlli. It contains a beau-
tiful chapel, decorated with exquisite mar-
bles, gold, and lapis lazuli, which has a
fine " Presentation in the Temple," by
Raphael Mengs. There is a very pretty
court theatre, adorned with handsome pil-
lars from the ruins at Pozzuoli. The gar-
dens are very handsome, with fountains
and cascades. This was the favorite resi-
dence of the King of Naples, and is now
unoccupied.
At Cancello a branch line of road ex-
tends to Benevento and Foggia.
Castelnuovo is the last station before ar-i
riving at Naples. From this point Vesu-
rius is visible until
Naples is reached. See Index.
ROUTE No. 223.
Home to Naples, via the Pontine Marshes.
This route has become entirely unused
872
since the opening of the railway. It was
formerly the great line of communication
between Central and Southern Italy ; but
few will care to spend three days on a
trip where there is but little to be seen,
and the same can be made in seven hours
by rail and much more comfortably.
Up to a very late period the mountain
districts were infested with brigands, but
the diligence has rarely been interfered
with since the annexation of the States of
the Church.
The journey occupies about three days'
time. Rail to VMetri, 1 h. 17 m. ; thence
by diligence to Terraciua in 8 hours, fare
7 fr. ; thence to the railway station of Spa-
ranisi in 9 h. 30 m., fare 8 fr. 75 c. ; whole
time 20 h. 24 m., fare 26 fr. 85 c.
Velletri is described in Route No. 222.
The present road is nearly idsntical with
the ancient Via Appia, constructed 300
years before the Christian era. Before
arriving at the Pontine Marshes the town
of
Cisterna is reached. It is surmounted
by a castle of the Gaetani. The diligence
changes horses at Terre tre Ponte, and
commences to cross the
Pontine Marshes, about 35 miles in
length, and an average breadth of 9 miles.
This section of country was at one time a
highly cultivated district, but a very small
portion is now under cultivation. The
malaria arising in the summer season is
fatal to both man and beast, as the ave-
nues fur drainage are inadequate to carry
off the water which descends from the
mountains during the rainy season. Sev-
eral attempts have been made to drain
them, but without satisfactory results, the
surface being too level.
Passing Fororo Appio, where a diligence
connects with the ancient Sezza, noted for
its good wine, the road quits the old Via
Appia, approaches the mountains, and en-
ters a district rich in orange groves and
pomegranates.
Terracina, Hotel, Royal. The ancient
Tarracina was formerly the southern fron-
tier of the States of the Church. It is an
ancient episcopal residence on the shore
of the Mediterranean. The old city is
built on the slope of the hill, and is sur-
mounted by the ruins of the old palace of
Theodoric the Ostrogoth. A magnificent
view is obtained from the summit
FONDI.
[ITALY.]
SPARANISI.
Among the numerous islands in the dis-
tance, notice those to the south, one of
which is \~endotiita, the ancient Pandataria,
where Augustus banished his daughter
Julia, and where Nero put to death his
wife Octavia.
The principal building is the cathedral
of A'. I'ittro, supposed to occupy the site
of the ancient temple of Jupiter Anxurus.
The clock-tower commands an extensive
view. The harbor, which in ancient times
was of great importance, is now filled with
sand.
Fourteen miles from Terracina, and
Fondi is reached. Adjoining the inn
are the ruins of the ancient chateau of the
Colonnas. In 1534 the pirate Haireddin
made a descent on the town for the pur-
pose of carrying off the beautiful Countess
Giula Gonzaga, to present to the harem of
the Sultan Solyman II. ; failing in his de-
signs, he almost completely destroyed the
town. The road now passes through a
mountainous region to the town of
Itri, noted for the residence of the rob-
ber-chief Marco Schiarra, and for the nu-
merous robberies committed at its castle.
Washington Irving's "Inn of Terracina,"
and ''Fra Diavolo" (Michele Pezza), who
was a native of Itri, have added much to
its notoriety. On the right as Formia is
approached stands a round tower, said to
be the tomb of Cicero, who was here mur-
dered by the tribunes Herennius and
Popilius, in the 64th year of his age.
I'onnia. Hotel de t Europe. This was
formerly the Molt di Gaeta, being distant
five miles from that fortress.
Gaeta is a strong fortress situated at the
end of a small peninsula, and contains
14,500 inhabitants. It is said by Virgil
to have been the tomb of Caieta, nurse of
jEneas. A monument was consequently
erected on its summit. It is a place of
great strength, and fell into the hands of
the Romans in 340 B.C. Its port was
built by Antoninus the Pious. After the
destruction of the Roman Empire, Gaeta
wa< governed by its own dukes, as vassals
of the Church. It was captured by Al-
phonse of Aragon in 14:35, who united it to
the kingdom of Italy.
The, French signed here a capitulation
by which they abandoned the kingdom of
Naples to the Spaniards.
Gaeta has undergone several remarkable
sieges. It was taken by the Austrians in
ITiii' : in 17:; I by the Sardinian and Span-
ish army ; in 1799 and 180C by the French,
and in 1815 and 1821 by the Austrians.
Francis II. retired here after the entrance
of Garibaldi into Naples, and was here
besieged by the Piedmontese, and capitu-
lated February 13th, 1861. The king was
conveyed to Rome by a French man-of-
war.
Pope Pius IX., when banished from
Rome in 1848, remained at Gaeta until
his return in April, 1850.
Napoleon I. gave the title of Due de
Gaeta to Gaudin, his minister of Finance.
The Cathedral is a most interesting
building : it contains the tomb of the Duke
of Bourbon ; also a banner presented by
the Pope to John of Austria, brother of
Philip II., and hero of Lepanto. There
are numerous relics of antiquity in the
vicinity ; the remains of a temple of Nep-
tune, villas of Hadrian, Scaurus, etc.
Ascending to the summit of the promon-
tory we there find the Torre d 1 Orlando, or
tomb of Munatius Plancus, the founder of
the city of Lyons (B.C. 43) ; the position is
a glorious one, and the view superb.
Quitting the Via Appia, and crossing the
suspension bridge over the Garigliano, the
ancient town of
Sessa is reached. It is situated on the
slope of a hill, and contains some relics of
antiquity. The village of
C'tcano, once celebrated for its hand-
some women, is passed, and the railway
station of
Sparanisi reached. For remainder of
route, see Route No. 222.
ROUTE No. 224.
Naples to Foygia, via Benevento. Time-
6 h. 35 m. ; fare, first class, 22 fr. 40 c. ;
second class, 15 fr. 70 c. (express).
Naples. See Index.
Caserta. See Route No. 222.
873
BENEVENTO.
[ITALY.]
AVEZZANO.
The only object of particular interest in
this route is the town ofBenevento, situated
half way between Naples and Foggia. The
town contains 19,000 inhabitants. Hotels
very poor; Benevento the best. This town
was formerly the capital of the province
of the same name. Its ancient title was
Maleventum ; but the Romans, after hav-
ing vanquished Pyrrhus in 275, thinking
the name augured ill, changed it to Bene-
ventum. Hannibal besieged it without re-
sult. It again came into possession of
the Eastern Empire, but was besieged
and ruined by the Goths under Totila ;
after which it was taken by the king of
the Lombards, in whose possession it re-
mained until the fall of that empire, when
for a long time it was governed by its own
dukes. In 1047 it was captured by the
Emperor Henry III., who ceded it to his
relation, Pope Leo IX. ; and it remained
in possession of the Church down to 1769,
when it came into the possession of Ferdi-
nand I. of Naples. In 1806 Napoleon I.
created it a principality in favor of Talley-
rand. In 1814 it was restored to the Pope,
but was annexed to the kingdom of Italy
in 1860.
In 1266 a battle was fought near Bene-
vento between the young and chivalrous
Ring Manfred and Charles I. of Anjou, in
which the former lost his throne and life,
and Charles remained master of Naples
and the Sicilies.
The principal object of attraction is Tra-
jan's Arch i<f Triumph, constructed of
Paros marble, and dating from A.D. 114.
It was dedicated to that emperor by the
Roman Senate and people, and is one of
the best-preserved ancient structures on
the peninsula. The reliefs with which it
is decorated give a history of the life of
Trajan.
The Cathedral is built in the Lombard-
Saracen style of the 14th century. In
front of it stands an Egyptian obelisk of
red granite, which once belonged to the
temple of Isis. The bronze door of the
cathedral is finely illustrated with bas-re-
liefs of subjects from the New Testament,
executed in Constantinople. The former
palace of the cardinal legate is now a
barrack.
At the station of Giardinetto there is a
diligence for Troja.
Foggia. See Route No. 216.
874
ROUTE No. 225.
Ancona to Xapks, via Pescara, Sulmona
(with excursion to Lake Fucino. lately
drained by Prince Torlonia), and hernia.
Time from Ancona to Sulmona by rail 8
hours ; fare, first class, 20 fr. 20 c. ; second
class, 16 fr. 10 c.
Diligence daily from Sulmona to Caia-
nello. Time, 7 h. 30 m.
Railway to Naples in 3 hours. See
Route No. 222.
From Ancona to Pescara is described in
Route No. 216.
There is but little to see in this route,
some fine scenery excepted ; and a consid-
erable portion of it has been considered
unsafe on account of the brigands, dili-
gences in the present year (1876) being
often accompanied by an escort.
Chieti (hotel, Sole), capital of the
province of Abruzzo Citra, containing
20,000 inhabitants, is a busy industrial
town.
Popo'i (hotel, America), a small but
busy town ; diligences leave here daily
for
Aquila, a handsome town, with fine
streets and numerous handsome palaces.
It was founded by the Emperor Frederick
II., and is now the capital of Abruzzo
Ultra, containing 16,000 inhabitants. It
suffered considerably by the earthquakes
of 1703 and 1706. It was taken by the
French in 1798, and by the Austrians in
1815.
Diligence to Avezzano which before its
drainage stood on Lake Fucino in ten
hours. The inns are poor, and there is
nothing to be seen in the town except the
chateau of Prince Barberini, and a small
collection of antiquities in the court-house;
but it has been brought within the notice
of travelers as a starting-point to visit the
works of the Prince Torlonia of Rome, who
M /\
Harj
. E. S
id Book
SLI.MOXA.
[ITALY.;
NAPLES.
finally succeeded in 1875 in doing what f and aqueduct, and was partially destroyed
Caesar proposed and Claudius commenced, by an earthquake in 1705.
but has never before been accomplished. Diligence daily to Campdbasso, capital
There being no outlet to the lake, its vari- of Molise, and noted for its steel-ware,
ations were most destructive to the sur- Caianello station ; see Route 222.
rounding villages ; hence the attempt to
drain it, in addition to the great value of
the land reclaimed. Thirt}- thousand men
were employed by the Emperor Claudius
for eleven years; and probably had he lived,
or had any but a Nero succeeded him, the
work might have been terminated in an-
cient times. Frederick II. attempted to
reopen the tunnel excavated by Claudius,
but failed. From 1780 to 1810 the water
had risen 30 feet. Several attempts were
made between that date and 1852 to open
the old canal and prolong it, but without
NAPLES.
Naples has a population of 458,614.
Ho-
tels : Grand, Tramontano Beau Rivage, and
de Geneve.
success. In 1852 the government made a Hotel Tramontano Beau Rivage, on the
grant of the lake to a company, on condi- Corso Vittorio Emmanuele, with command-
tion that they would drain it. This grant ing views of the Gulf, island of Capri, etc.
was purchased by Prince Torlonia, and op- | Hotel de Geneve, Place Medina, owned by
erations were commenced under the direc- Messr*. Isotta, also proprietors of the Hotel
tion of the French engineer J/. </ Mon-
ti'ii-het, chief engineer of the Uourhes-du-
Klione, who died in Naples in 1859. M. de
Quisisana, Castellamare.
Station. Always take the omnibus, and
in good time, on leaving ; facchini, 10 c. for
I-'r<uiqueville and .I/. I'aulin Tulub /, who 'small and 20 c. for large pieces. The sta-
\ven- much interested in the work, sent tion is celebrated for being, with the po-
M. de Place, the head engineer of the lice, and, in a minor degree, the municipal
Lyons Company, to undertake the super- authorities, a disgrace to this beautiful city,
intendence. The difficulties were enor- On these last fall, to a great extent, the
mous, a great part of the tunnel, in section responsibility of the terrible visitation of
nearly fourteen feet square, being 300 feet cholera in September, 1884; defective sew-
below the surface, and numerous shafts jerage and drainage, and accumulated filth
had to be constructed to this immense of thoroughfares and habitations, causing
depth for the admission of air and the the death of several thousand poor people,
removal of the rubbish. The length of - Cabs. One horse, dsiy, city, course,
the tunnel is four miles, and the land re- 60 c., hour, Ifr. 40 c. ; night, 12 to 6, course,
claimed 45,000 acres. Credit must be 1 fr., hour, 2 fr. ; two horses, day, course,
given to French engineers for this the 1 fr. 20 c., hour, 2 fr. ; night, course, 2 fr. ;
third great work of the 19th century, com- every additional half-hour, 70 c.
ing as it does after Mont Cenis and the To the different points outside the city
Suez Canal. I it is best to make a bargain. The driver
Sulmona (hotels bad), the terminus of will naturally ask double the fare; offer
the railway. Nothing of importance to be : him half, and the chances are he will take
seen. The Hotel de I'ille and churches of it. When not knowing the fare, your ho-
.*>. If aria della Tomba and Francesco d' A*-, tel people will best arrange the matter.
sisi are the principal buildings. The earth- Carriages for making excursions in tho
quake which did such damage to Aquila vicinity of the city, 30 fr. per day, with 2
injured these churches considerably. fr. pourboire.
Castel di Sangro, picturesquely situated If arriving by steamer, as soon as per-
on the River Sangro, contains the ruins of mission is given to land, your baggage is
an old castle; nothing else of interest. taken to the Dogana for 1 fr. : when it is
Iternia (hotel, Pettorossi) contains a few examined, the "facchini della dogaua"
Roman antiquities. Population. 6000. It will carry it to your carriage, the tariff for
is the seat of a bishop, contains a cathedral large pieces 40 c., and for small 10 c.
875
NAPLES.
[ITALY.]
NAPLES.
It is only when landing from the Bay
of Naples that the following quotation
will apply, as the drive from the station
rather dispels your ideas acquired from
Rogers :
" This region, surely, is not of the earth.
Was it not dropped from heaven ? Not a
grove,
Citron, or pine, or cedar ; not a grot,
8,-a-worn and mantled with the gadding vine,
But breathes enchantment. Not a cliff but
flings
On the clear wave some image of delight,
Some cabin-roof glowing with crimson flowers,
Some rained temple or fallen monument,
To muse on as the bark is gliding by.
Yet here met h inks
Truth wants no ornament, in her own shape
Filling the mind by turns with awe and love,
By turns inclining to wild ecstasy
And soberest meditation.
Here the vines
Wed each her elm, and o'er the golden grain
Hang their luxuriant clusters, checkering
The sunshine ; where when cooler shadows fall,
And the mild moon her fairy net-work weaves,
The lute or mandoline, accompanied
By many .1 voice yet sweeter than their own,
Kindles now slowly ; and the dance displays
The gentls arts and witcheries of love,
Its hopes, and fears, and feigning:-, till the
youth
Drops on hid knee as vanquished, and the
maid,
Her tambourine uplifting with a grace,
Nature's and Nature's only, bids him rise."
Naples is very ancient. It was found-
ed by the people of Cumae, a colony from
Greece, who gradually spread themselves
round the Bay of Naples, and was called
from this circumstance Neapolif, or li The
New City." It was also called Parthe-
nope, from its being the burying-place of
one of the sirens of that name. It was,
therefore, to all intents and purposes, a
Greek city ; its inhabitants spoke the Greek
language, and were long distinguished by
their attachment to the manners and cus-
toms of their ancestors. It was on this
account, according to Tacitus, that it was
selected by Nero to make his debut on the
-t;i'-c-. such a proceeding being less offens-
ive there, and less repugnant to the pre-
vailing sentiments than in Rome. Naples,
in truth, was then, as now, a chosen seat of
pleasure. Its hot baths were reckoned
equal to those of Baiae ; and the number
and excellence of its theatres and other
places of amusement, its matchless scen-
ery, the mildness of its climate, and the
luxury and effeminacy of its inhabitants,
made it a favorite retreat of the wealthy
87G
Romans, and justified Ovid in calling it
In otiu natam Partkennpem. After the fall
of the Roman Empire it underwent many
vicissitudes. It, however, early became
the capital of the kingdom of Naples, and
remained so until the late regeneration of
Italy. And, notwithstanding the calami-
ties it has suffered from war, earthquakes,
etc., it has long been the most populous
! city of Italy, and one of the most interest-
ing that is any where to be met with.
The country around Naples is rich in beau-
ties of scenery ; nothing can well be con-
ceived to be more beautiful. Quite a cel-
ebrated author remarks that he congrat-
ulated himself upon being delayed on the
route, so that he did not arrive at Naples
until late at night, for it enabled him to
anticipate with brighter hopes the bc;aity
of the scene that opened on his eyes with
the light of morning. The situation of
Naples is as fine as can be imagined, be-
ing partly seated on a spacious bay, upon
the shores of which are magnificent villas
and gardens.
It is principally in respect to situation
that this city surpasses most others. The
streets are straight, and paved with square
blocks of lava laid in mortar, and said to
resemble the old Roman roads. Owing to
the mildness of the climate, a great deal
of business is carried on in the open streets,
and, while walking along, you are accosted
by numerous different traders. There is
but little real magnificence in architec-
ture ; and, though many of the buildings
are erected on a very grand scale, they
are generally overloaded with ornament.
The houses resemble those of Paris, ex-
cept that they are on a larger scale. The
whole of the ground floor of these tene-
ment buildings is occupied by store-keep-
ers, while the upper portion is the dwell-
ing of numerous families.
The nobility are fond of great show and
splendor. The females are proud, even
when very poor. They never go out un-
less to ride, and bestow great pains and
time upon their personal charms, to fasci-
nate the other sex. A correct idea of their
moral habits and manners may be obtain-
ed from the tales of Boccaccio and La Fon-
taine. The principal promenade of the
ladies is on their own roof, which is gen-
erally adorned with shrubs and flowers.
Naples is not unprovided with fortifica-
NAPLES.
[ITALY.]
NAPLES.
tions, having on its N.W. side the Castle
of St. Elmo, Castello Nuovo, adjoining the
royal palace, and the Castello dell' < )vo.
on a rock which projects into the sea. l!r-
tween the Palazzo Kettle and the sea are .sit-
uated the arsenal and the cannon-fonndery.
St. Elmo has extensive subterranean bomb-
proof works. Naples has three ports :
/'<;/'( Piccolo, the last remnant of the an-
ri-nt port of Palaeopolis, is now. however,
only adapted for boats ; the Porto Grande,
formed by Charles II. of Anjou in 1302;
Porto M'ditaire, a new harbor for ships of
the royal navy, commenced in 1826 by
Francis I., and still in progress. A few
modernized gates, together with the cas-
tles above mentioned, are all that re-main
of the mediaeval fortifications.
Naples has 300 churches. Some of them
are remarkable for their architecture and
works of art. They contain a collection of
tombs which surpass those to be found in
any other city of Italy. The Cathedral, Cat-
ledrale, or Duomo, commenced by Charles
I. of Anjou in 1272, from the designs of
Mussacio. Over the great entrance to this
liuililiiig arc the tombs of Charles I. of An-
jou, of Charles Martel. king of Hungary,
eldest son of Charles II., and of his wife
dementia, daughter of Rudolph of Haps-
bunr. Over the side doors are two large-
pictures by Vasari. The one on the left
door represents the patron saints of Na-
ples, whose heads are portraits of Paul III.,
of Alessandro Rannueio, Pier Luigi, and
Ottavia Farnese; also of Tiberio Crispo
and Ascanio Sforza. The baptismal font,
an antique vase of green basalt, is sculp-
tured in high relief. In the second chapel
is a picture of the incredulity of St. Thom-
as, by Marco da Siena ; a beautiful bas-re-
lief of the Entombment, by Giovanni da
Nola. In the Chapel De' Seripanai is the
painting of the Assumption by Perugino.
Here also is the sepulchral monument of
Andrew, king of Hungary, husband of Jo-
anna I. Near it is the tomb of Innocent
IV., from the design of Pietro de' Stefani.
Close to this is the sacrist}', containing nu-
merous portraits of archbishops of Naples.
Left of the high-altar is the Gothic chapel
of the Capece Galeota family. Over the
altar is a painting representing our Saviour
between SS. .lanuarius and Athanasius.
Beneath the high-altar is the beautifully
decorated subterranean chapel called the
VOL. II. P 2
1 Confessional of San Gennaro. The Minu.
toli Chapel, designed by Massacio, has a
painting illustrating the Passion, by To-
ina-o de' Stefani, and the tomb of Cardi-
nal Miuutoli.
The Basilica of Santa Restituta was the
ancient Cathedral for the Greek ritual.
It is supposed to occupy the site of the
Temple of Apollo. The chapel of Sla. Ma-
ria del Principio, on the left side of the
church, contains an ancient mosaic, repre-
senting the Madonna in Byzantine cos-
tume. It is called "Del Principle," and
derives its name from being the first figure
of the Virgin that demanded veneration in
Naples. On the roof of the nave is a pic-
ture representing the body of Santa Resti-
tuta being carried away in a boat by an-
gels toward Ischia.
In the right aisle of the Cathedral is
the chapel of San Gennaro, called the Cap-
pella del Tesoro. It was 25 years in proc-
ess of completion, and is said to have cost
500,000 ducats. The gates, from the de-
signs of C. Fonzaga, were executed by
Monte, Biagio, and Soppa, at a cost of
32,000 ducats and 45 years of labor.
In a tabernacle behind the high -altar
are two phials containing the blood of St.
Januariiu. The Liquefaction, which lasts
for I'i.cht days in succession, takes place
twice a year. This is the greatest relig-
ious festival that occurs in Naples. There
are several others : the Ftsta di Piedigrot-
tn, which takes place on the 8th of Sep-
tember, instituted by Charles III. in com-
memoration of the victory of the Spaniards
over the Austrians at Velletri in 17-14 : the
Ffsta di M(/nte Vtrgine, to which is devoted
three days, occurs on Whit-Sunday and
derives its name from the. sanctuary of the
Madonna di Monte Vergine. near Avellino.
The )fadonna deir Area, seven miles from
Naples, is visited by a number of people,
who can not afford to go to the Monte Yer-
gine. Here they sing and dance the Ta-
rantella. The veneration for the Madonna
is universal in Naples. In almost every
shop may be seen a picture of the ' Mndre
di Dio," with lamps burning constantly
before it.
The chapel of Santa Maria della Pietra
di Sangri is one of the gems of Naples.
The altar-piece is a Descent from the Cross,
by Francetco Celebrano. The principal
pieces of sculpture are Vice Convinced; Pit-
877
NAPLES.
[ITALY.]
NAPLES.
dicitia, wife of Antonio di Sangro ; and, in
a lower chapel, the exquisite figure of the
Veiled Christ, by Sannorartino.
The Christmas festivals are very merry.
The bagpipers of the Abruzzi, who annual-
ly visit Naples and Rome at this season,
play the hymns and songs beneath the fig-
ures of the Madonna, and thereby earn a
few ducats. Their appearance is some-
what striking, with their pointed hats,
brown cloaks, sandals, and their bagpipes,
and is a sure indication of the approach
of Christmas. On Easter and Good Fri-
day the churches give a representation of
the Holj' Sepulchre. At vespers on the
Wednesday, Thursday, and Friday the
Miserere of Zingarelli is sung.
The churches of St. Paul, St. Filippo
Neri, Spirito Santo, and S. Martino are all
deserving of particular attention, as to
each are connected some historical reminis-
cences; also many paintings, remarkable
tombs, and other works of art. S. Martino is
considered one of the most beautiful church-
es in the city. It was erected and dedicated
to the Virgini parenti by Sannazzaro, and
derives its name, Del Parto, from his well-
known poem of De Partu Virfjinis. San-
nazzaro's tomb is in the chapel behind the
high-altar. It was formerly a Carthusian
monastery, but is now under the manage-
ment of the Museo Nazionala, and is shown
daily from 9 to 5 ; fee, 1 franc each person.
The museum consists of nine rooms, con-
taining crystal, majolicas, paintings, and
frescoes. The cloisters are adorned with
numerous saints. The view from the gar-
den is magnificent.
Adjoining S. Martino is the Castel Sanf
Elmo, erected by Robert the Wise in 1343.
It was changed to its present style by
Don Pedro de Toledo in 1641. Its walls
and fosses hewn out of the solid rock, its
great cistern and subterranean passages,
the numerous historical incidents of love
and daring, all tend to render it an object
of great interest to the visitor. As a fort
it is dismantled, but it is used as a military
prison. Visitors are not admitted without
a permit from the commandant in the city.
The church of SS. Apostoli is rich in
frescoes and decorations. Over the door is
the large fresco of the Pool of Bethesda.
Beneath the church is a cemetery contain-
ing the tomb of Marini the poet. Here,
also, many of the nobility are buried. A
878
strange scene occurred in former times on
the day following that of All Saints. "The
bodies of the deceased members of a con-
fraternitk who subscribed for the privi-
lege of being buried in a peculiar kind of
earth which prevents decomposition were
disinterred on that day, and exposed to
public view in the dresses which the}- wore
when living. On this occasion the ceme-
tery was decorated with flowers and ever-
greens ; the bodies were decked out in all
their finery, with flowers in their hands ;
and a long inscription over each corpse
recorded the name, age, and particulars of
death. The present Archbishop of Naples
put an end to this disgusting exhibition
some 3'ears ago."
Naples has two cemeteries. The Campo
Santo Vecchio consists of 365 cells. One
of these cells is opened every morning in
rotation, and receives all the dead bodies
of the day previous, which are tumbled in
pell-mell, and. when this is finished, it is
closed up again for a year. The next
morning another is opened, and so on
throughout the year. The Campo Santo
Nuovo is quite prettily laid out, and the
interments take place with more respect
and feeling. As a general thing, the Ne-
apolitans entertain great indifference as to
the style and manner of their burial.
The Palaces have but little pretension
to purity of architecture. Among the
finest is the Palazzo Rea'e, at the extrem-
ity of the Strada di Toledo. It is a vast
building, three stories high, with four in-
terior courts. In a small room stands a
statue of Italy, erected in 18(54 to commem-
orate the plebiscite which gave the king-
dom of Naples to Victor Emmanuel. The
interior is splendidly fitted up, and has
some good paintings. The throne-room is
very magnificent. To obtain admittance,
i a PP' v to the porter ; he will conduct the
visitor to the intendant (fee to the porter),
who will issue permits not only for the Pa-
lazzo Reale, but also for Caserta Capodi-
j monto, Favorita, Quisi^ana, and the Garden
! of Astroni. Cards of admission, which are
good for a party of six, are issued gratis,
but the person showing the palace expects
a fee of one or two francs.
Naples has three Libraries which are
open to the public : the Bib'ioteca Borboni-
ci, founded in 1780 ; open daily (Sundays
excepted) from 8 A.M. to 2 P.M. In this
Ld
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NAPLES.
[ITALY.]
NAPLKS.
collection is the first book printed in Na- '
pies. Biblioteca Brancuccitina, the oldest
library in the city, was founded in I<i7.">
by Cardinal Francoco Mario Urancaccio.
Bibliotect dell' University contains a series
of works by the early printers of Naples.
Biblioteca de 1 Girolomini. Among its
MSS. is the celebrated Seneca of the
14th century, with a fine miniature of
Ziiigaro.
By far the most important and interest-
ing building to visit in Naples is the ex-
tensive and celebrated Museu Xazioiitile,
formerly Borbonico. Open to the public
daily from 9 to 3 ; Sunday and Thursday
gratis; other days 1 franc; fees forbidden.
Tlic name of this building was ascribed to !
it by Ferdinand I. in 1*1('>. A great deal j
ol time can l>e spent most agreeably in vis-
iting this interesting institution, witii its
vast number of apartments richly stored
with relics of ancient art. It has become
the general depot of all the riches recov-
ered from the buried ancient cities of Pom-
peii and Herculaneuni, and also other lo-
calities of Naples and of Sicily.
The principal objects of interest on en- j
tering the Vestibule are a colossal statue
of Alex inder Severus, Flora, Genius of
Rome, and a Melpomene taken from the
theatre of Pompey at Home. On the right
of the vestibule is the entrance to the col-
lection of ancient frescoes found at Pom-
peii and Herculaneum, containing more
than 1600 objects of ancient art. Some
of the subjects are beautifully portrayed.
The most important are as follows : The
Sacrifice oflphiyenia, representing her be-
ing borne to the altar and pleading to her
father, who turns away to hide his grief:
the figure of Diana is seen in the clouds,
and the hind who was to supply the place
of the victim ; Hercules killing the Xemeim
Lion; A Love Bargain; Achilles delivering
Jiriseis to the Heralds of Agamemnon; the
Danzatrice, or dancing-girls, remarkable
for their graceful positions and singular
costumes ; Medea contemplating the Murder
of her Children white they are at Play ; Ma-
siiiissa and Sophonisbn, the latter holding
the cup of poison which the former is in-
ducing her to take to save her from being
carried in triumph to Rome ; The Thnt
Grace* : The Marriage of&uochtta untl . 1 H.
adne ; CAirtm touching A chUle* hi play upon
the Lyrs ; Priam and Caatandra before the
Statue of Apollo ; Telephus nursed by the
lliml ; Tlic-feiis killing the Minotaur.
Collection II., Mosaics, Mural Inscrip-
tions, and Fresco Ornaments. Among the
mosaics are the following: Aerates riding
on a Tiger, with a vase in his hand; Cat
d riiiirin;/ a Quail; .1 N'/ 'fn or Harpy ; Cho~
ragium, or actors r hearsing, nnd being in-
structed by Choragvs; Comic scene two
women, man, anil a lw>/. playing diff<->
strwnunts ; A J'ar< m< >,t lit //lark mosaic, rep-
r< stating the Higns of the Zodiac and the
Rape of Europa. The frescoes in this
apartment arc very good. The mural in-
scriptions are roughly written upon the
walls.
Collection III., Gallery of Egyptian An-
tiquities: Statue of Serapis sitting on his
throne, with his right hand upon the head
nf Cerberus; a portion of a black granite
sarcophagus covered with hieroglyphics ;
Vases of Oriental alabaster; His of white
marble, with neck, head, and feet of bronze.
Collection of Ancient Sculpture. This
collection occupies three large galleries,
called porticoes, and several smaller ones,
called cabinets.
First Portico, called " dei Miscellanei"
Miscellaneous Objects: The Wounded Clml-
iator; A Wrestler, in Greek marble; A l>< <i'l
Warrior; Bust of Cttlius Caldus.
Second Portico, or Portico de 1 Ball*:
Ganymede and th' Eag'e ; Bacchus ami A m-
pelvs; The Priestess Kumachia: Hercules
and Ink. Statue of Minerva; Statue of
Marcus Nonius Bnlbus the elder, and one
of the son ; a graceful and most exquisite
figure, the Farnese Bacchus ; Bust of A lex-
ander the Great; Statue of Julius Caesar m
military costume. A very beautiful piece
of Greek statuary is that of a Faun carry,
inr/thf Boy Bacchus on his Shoulder*.
Third, or Portico of the Emperors. In
the centre is the Statue of Agrippina, wife
| of Gennanicus. The colossal Bust of Ju-
\ lius Ccesar, in Carrara marble ; Bust of An-
toninus Pitts ; Statue of Marcus Aureliti.-;
very rinely decorated with a Gorgon's head
and two griffins ; a magnificent colossal
it.tt <\f Hndi-ian; Statue of C^liff"!". re-
stored l>y BrunelH, it having been broken
into fragments by the Romans, who de-
termined to destroy even- memorial of their
oppression ; It hag, however, In spite of all
their efforts to destroy it, lived on for ages,
Hal 1 , of Jupiter.*- -The Torso Fames-. &
879
NAPLES.
[ITALY.]
NAPLES.
magnificent specimen of Grecian art ; also
the most lovely Psyche in existence, deli-
cate in form and attitude, and beautiful in
countenance.
Hall rf the Flora. Colossal Statue, of
the Flor.i Farm-ne. a masterpiece of ancient
sculpture found in the baths of Caracalla
at Rome; colossal statue, in Parian mar-
ble, of the Farntse Minerva ; a magnificent
StiUiM of Aristides, found at Herculaneum,
in the villa of the Papyri. In this hail is
the celebrated mosaic of the /)'<;"'' </' !.<<u*.
Hall if Apollo, or Colored Marbles.
SlcUite of Diana of Ephesus, in Oriental al-
abaster, head, feet, and hands of bronze ;
sitting statue of the Apollo Citkarada, por-
phyry, with white marble extremities.
Hall of the Muses. Here are the statues
of the Muses found at Herculaneum. The
great feature of this hall is the vase of
Greek marble which was found buried
among the ruins of the ancient Formiae,
and was removed to the Cathedral of Gaeta,
and there used as the baptismal font. It
is covered with bas-reliefs representing the
birth of Bacchus, and has been alluded to
by many eminent writers.
Hull nj'A lias, with the busts and statues
of many illustrious men, such as Herodo-
tus, Homer, Cicero, Demosthenes, and a
Statve of Atlas, kneeling and supporting a
globe.
Cabinet of the Venus Callipyge. This
hall is devoted exclusively to the Venuses.
The principal statue is the Venus Callipyge,
discovered in the Golden House of Nero.
A feeling of extreme delicacy seems to
prevail in the management of the museum,
as nearly all the naked figures which were
scattered around in the different halls have
been removed to this one, which was for-
merly closed to the visitor.
Collection of Inscriptions, or the Museo
Epigrafico, the Toro, and the Erco'e Farnese.
On entering we find two cipolin columns,
with Greek inscriptions, discovered in the
villa of Herodes Atticus, on the Via Ap-
pia. near Home. The Museo F.pigmfico
contains monuments from Pompeii, Hercu-
laneum, Cumae, Stabiae, etc., amounting to
about ] 600. The Farnese Hercules and the
Toro Farnese are the most attractive ob-
jects here.
The Gallery of Bronze Slatu's, the finest
collection in the world ; among the most
interesting of which are The Sleeping Faun ;
880
Mercury in Repose ; The Dancing Fntin, one
of the most beautiful specimens of bronze
discovered at Pompeii ; a most exquisite
statue of Venus Anadyomene ; The Drunken
Faun, and many fine busts. The greatest
curiosity is a bronze water-cock, contain-
ing water which has been hermetically
sealed for 18 centuries.
The Collection of Ancient Clans, contain-
ing 4000 specimens, is verv interesting ;
also the collection of Terra-cotta \Vare.
Another apartment well worthy of ob-
servation is that containing the gold and
silver ornaments, vase?, and gems.
The Secret Cabinet, which was formerly
closed to all visitors, is now open to gen-
tlemen. No lady can enter the room, nor
would she want to if she know the contents.
The gallery is divided into two sections,
situated to the right and left of the upper
story of the museum. In the first saloon,
notice Masaniello smoking his Pipe, by
Micco Spadaro ; the Place du Mercatello.
at Naples, during the plague which visit-
ed this city in 165G : the dying and dead
cover the ground ; the prefet of the city.
mounted on horseback, surrounded by a
numerous cortege, is issuing orders, while
consternation, horror, and despair arc visi-
ble in every countenance. Here is also
another splendid historical picture by the
same artist (Micco Spadaro), viz., The Rev-
olution in Naples in the year 1647. There
are different scenes of the same subject :
lirst we see Masaniello. in the costume of
the Lazaroni, with a crucifix in his hand,
exciting the people to revolt ; next, on the
pedestal where formerly stood the statue
of the viceroy, are two rows of heads be-
longing to the noble victims of the revolt-
era ; again we see Masaniello, dressed in
splendid costume, and mounted on a mag-
nificent white charger, at the head of a nu-
merous suite a multitude press toward
him, greeting him with noisy acclamation.
The next picture by the same author is a
view of the Place du Mercato one year later
(1648). The municipal authorities are pre-
senting the keys of the city to Don John
of Austria, who, seated on horseback, sur-
rounded by the Archbishop of Naples and
other high dignitaries, has just made a tri-
umphal entry into the city. The heads of
the decapitated nobles on the pedestal have
been replaced by those of the conspirators.
Notice next Semiramis defending Baby-
NAPLES.
[ITALY.]
NAPLES.
Ion : this is considered a very fine produc-
tion, by Lvca Giordano.
In the second saloon the principal gems
are Jesus deputing \vith the Doctors in the
Temple, and the 1'arablc of the Mote, both
by the painter, poet, actor, and musician.
Snlrnt ir It <.<//. a native of Naples, and the
only two of his works that exist in his na-
tive citv. He became embroiled in the
M,i< miello revolt, as did most of the artists
f Naples, and was obliged to flee from the
city. Nos. 131 and 133, by Luca Giordano,
are considered two of his masterpieces.
The first is the Saviour recommending the
Pharisees to pay the tribute to Csesar.
In the saloon of Chefs-d'oeuvre observe
first the " Madonna del Coniglio," or
" Zingarella, ' ' by Correggio. The Virgin is
asleep, holding the infant Saviour on her
knees. The Marriage of St. Catharine, by
the same artist. The King of Naples paid
$20,000 for this picture. The Nativity, by
Al'iert Diirer. Observe the " Charite" of
Sckidone a most remarkable work. The
Pie'te' : the dead Christ in the arms of his
mother. This sublime subject is treated
by the artist with much art and philoso-
phy, and is with reason considered one of
the chefs-d'oeuvre of this collection. The
Guardian Angel protecting Innocence from
the Evil Spirit, and leading her to Heaven,
by Dmenichino. The Holy Family. " .Ma-
donna col divino amore,'' by Raphael. Por-
trait of Philip II. of Spain, and Mary .Mag-
dalen, by Titian. If the Danae by the
same artist has been removed from the Se-
cret Cubin<;f, or if you can obtain admit-
tance there, notice it carefully. It was
painted for Octave Farnese at Home, and
is considered one of Titian's finest works.
The Vil/n \<i~ionale, formerly the Villa
Reale, is one of the principal and the most
fashionable promenades in Naples. In the
centre rises a statue of Giambattista Vico.
At one end is the Beh-idere, a delightful
spot to repose, and from whence there is a
charming view of the magnificent bay.
Free concerts take place here in the even-
ing. The grounds are laid out in the Ital-
ian style, and decorated with statues.
Near the villa is the Aquarium, opened
in 1874; entrance fee '2 francs.
There is also a Zoolor/ical Station here,
with a good zoological library.
At the end of Strada di Capodimonte,
beyond the Strada Romano (Toledo), is sit-
uated the palace of Capodimonte, completed
in !>:{! by Ferdinand II. It is surrounded
by gardens, from which there is an admi-
rable view. In addition to the numerous
pictures in the public and private apart-
ments, there is an armorv containing nu-
merous objects of interest. Admission by
permit from the intendant of the Palazzo
Reale.
Higher up is the Observatory, founded in
! 1812. It has become of world-wide celeb-
rity, its present director having discovered
several planets. It commands a magnifi-
cent prospect in every direction.
The University of Naples was founded by
the Emperor Frederick II. in 1224. It was
the only one in the kingdom of Naples,
and one of the most ancient in Europe.
The Protestant Cemetery is, situated just
outside the Porta Capuano. It contains
the tombs of numerous foreigners.
The Palazzo SarJangtloco formerly con-
: taineda large collection of antiquities, now
in the Museum. The picture-gallery has
! some good pictures, which are shown on ap-
plication to the Marchese Santangeloco.
The Catacombs may be visited on appli-
cation to the porter of the Poor-house in
the Strada S. Gennarello. Admittance, 1
! franc each person ; a small fee expected.
: The entrance is behind the church of S.
(lennaro dei Poveri, which was founded in
I the 8th century, and contains some frescoes
I by Sabbatini. The catacombs are much
inferior to the Roman.
The principal Theatre in Naples is the
San Carlo, one of the finest in Europe. It
contains six rows of boxes, thirty-two in
each row. It is especially noted for its
Italian opera( opera and ballet only). Boxes,
first row, 40 francs ; second row, 50 francs;
third row (corresponding with " family
; circle "), 32 francs ; orchestra stalls, 8
francs. Mercadante, comedies and farces.
Te itro A'aoro, comic operas. Boxes, tirst
row, 7 francs ; second row, 8 fr. 50 c.
Fiorentini, dramas. Fenice Gold&ni, Giar-
dino d'/nvento, and the San Carlino, where
' Pulcinella" holds forth. Boxes, C fr.
! 40c.
Restaurant-cafe de V Europe. This first-
class restaurant, the best and most fre-
' quented in Naples, is directly opposite the
San Carlo, on the Place San Ferdinando ;
breakfasts. dinners, and late suppers, French
or Italian, are served in very good style.
881
SORREXTO.
[ITALY.]
SOBBENTO
There is an English Church erected in
the Strada S. Pasquale on land presented
by Garibaldi in 1860 to the English resi-
dents. Service on Sundays at 11 and 3.
Unfortunately for visitors to Naples,
most of the religions and national festivals
take place during the summer months, but
at Christmas and Easter they are numer-
ous.
EXCURSIONS IN THE VICINITY OF NAPLES :
Castellamare, Sorrento, Cupri, Salerno,
Ptestum, and A malfi.
Every traveler should take particular
interest in the excursions which are to be
made from Naples. Perhaps the excursion
to Cupri and Sorrento, the birthplace of
Tasso, is one of the finest in Italy. The
best plan for this trip is to take the railroad
in the morning to CtateUaman. Time, 1
hour ; fare. 3 francs. Hotel Quisisana
the best. This town contains 22,000 in-
habitants, and is built on the site of the
ancient Stabiae, destroyed in the time of
the elder Pliny, who here lost his life. The
town is a favorite resort of the Neapolitans.
The grounds of the Casino Reale, or
Quisisana, are well worth a visit. Permis-
sion from the intendant at Naples.
From Castellamare to Sorrento is a de-
lightful ride. Two-horse carriage, 6 francs,
and 1 franc pourboire.
Sorrento contains 7000 inhabitants. Ho-
tels, Tremontano, La Sirena, and Del Tasso.
All these houses have line gardens over-
looking the bay, and have private stairs
descending to the water and bathing-
houses.
Visit the house of Tasso on the sea-shore,
the caves of Ulysses, and other curiosities ;
then take a row-boat for Capri. Two row-
ers, 8 francs ; four rowers, 15 francs. To
Capri and Amalfi two days ; four rowers,
40 francs. If you have time, make prepa-
rations to spend two days at the island, as
a calm day is necessary for visiting the
Grotto of Nymphs, consisting of the Green
and Blue grottoes, the visitor to which has
to lie in the bottom of the boat while it is
being pushed through an arch some three
feet high ; should there be any swell, it
can not be entered. The Blue Grotto is
100 feet wide by 150 long. It would be
difficult to describe its surpassing beauty.
The time to visit it is high noon, and the
882
traveler should remain a full half-hour to
accustom his eye to its gorgeous blue. The
Green Grotto is much inferior to the Blue,
but is still well worth a visit. The island
of Capri, during the reign of the Emperor
Tiberius, was the principal place of resort
of that wicked prince. He here built
twelve palaces in honor of his twelve par-
ticulardivinities, and enriched it with fount-
ains, baths, and aqueducts. These were
destroyed after his death by order of the
Senate.
The Hotel du Louvre is finely situated at
the west of the landing-place Maiiia at
Capri, and is the best house here. The
village of Capri is 30 minutes' walk or
donkey-ride from the landing. For horse,
1 fr. 50 c. ; donkey, 1 franc. To the villa
Tibero and return, 3 francs.
Travelers, however familiar with boat-
ing or sailing they may be, should on no
account make the excursion from Sorrento
to Capri unaccompanied by native boat-
men. Along the shore of the peninsula
the wind is continually shifting, and some-
times comes down through openings in the
mountains with such force as almost to lift
the boat out of the water.
There are numerous walks and drives in
the vicinity of Sorrento. The principal ii
that to Mussa, about four miles distant.
This small town, situated on a rock, con-
tains the remains of a Roman aqueduct.
Another is to the suppressed convent of
Desfrto, now occupied as a refuge for des-
titute children. Visitors are expected to
contribute something to the funds of the
institution in return for the refreshments
ottered.
C'amaldoli. This ancient monastery is
now the country-seat of the Marchese Gi-
ussi. The views of the setting sun from
the grounds of this place are truly enchant-
ing. The excursion occupies about three
hours.
Sorrento is a lovely summer residence,
cool and delightful, and much resorted to
by Neapolitans during the bathing season.
Salerno and Paestum can be reached by
carriage over the mountains, or by return-
ing to Castellamare and taking the railway,
which is the most direct : also by making
a new start from Naples, which many prefer.
From Naples to Salerno ; time, 2 h. 15
m. : fare, 6 fr. 15 c. ; thence to Pstum
in 4 hours by carriage ; but the visitor
E N VI RONS
CAPR I
Harper
OF NAPLES
d-Book.
P^ESTCM.
[ITALY.]
AMALFL
should remain all night at Salerno, start*
ing at 5 A.M., which will give him four
hours at Paestum. Carriage, 35 or 40
francs. Dinner or lunch should be taken
in the carriage.
l'n stum is generally considered, next to
Pompeii, the most interesting excursion in
Southern Italy. Excursionists usually de-
vote two days to it, though it nuty lie
" done ' in one, viz., start by the first train
to BiiKipuglia, hire a carriage there for
IV.-tum, and back the same night to Bat-
tipaglia in time for the last train to Naples.
The train leaves Naples at 0.40 A.M., ar-
rives at Battipaglia at 8.5*1 ; then 2 h. 30 m.
to Paestum ; 3 hours there, and return in
time for the 5.18 P.M. train for Naples,
arriving at 8.50 P.M. Carriage ought to
be engaged by telegraph from Naples.
If you have plenty of time, remain the
first night at Salerno (Z/ofe/ Vittoritt); visit
its splendid Cathedral ; also the ruins of its
citadel, the scene where Boccaccio weds
the page and daughter of Tancred, and
where he kills them ; the birthplace of John
de Procida, etc. From Salerno take car-
riage to Pa?stum, back again the same
day, and return to Naples on the third.
I 'cesium (in Greek Posidowia) was found-
ed by the Greeks in the 7th century B.C.,
and was a very flourishing city in the 7th,
Cth, and 5th centuries before the Christian
era, at which time its decay commenced ;
it was then destroyed by the Saracens, and
soon became a Roman colony. Its climate
was delicious, and its roses, which flour-
ished twice a year, were rendered celebrat-
ed by the poets of the time.
The grandeur, gloom, and majesty of
the temples of Paestum, standing alone as
they do amid their mountain wilderness,
similar to Baalbec, without a vestige near
of any jiower that could have raised them,
surpasses any thing of the kind on earth.
The principal ruins are the Basilica, the
Temple of Neptune, the Amphitheatre, the
Temple of Vesta, and the Forum.
Its ancient walls were three miles in
circumference. Outside the gate entered
in coming from Salerno was a street of
tombs, from which numerous relics have
been excavated, and are now in the Museum
at Naples.
The length of the Temple of Neptune is
195 feet; breadth, 79 feet; height of col-
umns, 29 feet; diameter at their base, 7
feet 6 inches. There are in all 36 columns.
The length of the cella is 90 feet ; breadth,
43 feet 4 inches. Not a single column is
wanting. The temple was roofless where
the image stood.
The Basilica's length, measuring from
the upper step, is 179 feet 10 inches ;
breadth, 80 feet; height of columns, 21
feet. The peristyle of the Basilica has 50
columns. The interior was divided by a
row of columns, three of which only re-
main : this fact leads many to suppose that
it was not a Basilica, but a temple with two
divinities.
The Temp'e of Vesta has a peristyle of
34 columns, six at each end and eleven on
the sides : their height is 20 feet 4 inches.
The length of the temple is 108 feet;
breadth, 47 feet 7 inches ; the architrave
alone remains of the entablature.
There are the ruins of three distinct
buildings between the temple of Neptune
and Vesta an amphitheatre, circus, and
Roman temple.
An English gentleman and his wife, of
the name of Hunt, were murdered on their
way to Paestum in 1824 by eighteen ban-
dits, seventeen of whom were executed for
the crime. Mrs. Hunt foolishly displayed
her valuable jewelry at the inn where she
passed the night. The eighteenth murder-
er confessed the details on his death-bed.
There is no fixed price for carriages
some persons make bargains for one half
what others do ; so do some couriers.
Amnlfi may be reached by carriage in
1 h. 30 in. from Salerno. The road is a
magnificent piece of engineering, tunneled
through the solid rock, supported by im-
mense viaducts, sometimes five hundred
feet above the sea-level. The small towns
of Jfaiort, Minori, and Atrani are passed.
Between this last and Amalfi, situated on
a rocky height, are the ruins of the Castle
of Pontonf.
Amalfi (hotel, Dei Cappuccinf). This
small but ancient town is finely situated
at the entrance to a deep valley, surrounded
by picturesque crags and mountains. Al-
though of small importance, and containing
only 70 ; inhabitants, it was in the llth
and li'th <( muries a city of considerable
importance, with 00,000 inhabitants. It
waged w;ir against the Pisans, and even
disputed with the Norman sovereigns of
Naples.
RAVELLO.
[ITALY.]
VESUVIUS.
The Cathedral of Amalfi is well worth a
visit. Its bronze doors are very fine, and
date from the llth century.
The Capuchin Monastery, built in the
hollow of a rock four hundred feet above
the level of the sea. was founded in 1212.
It is now used as a naval academy.
A visit should be made to the old town
of
Ravelin, the view from which is superb.
Time, 1 hour by donkey (2 fr.). The town,
which at one time contained 25,000 in-
habitants, is now reduced to 1500.
From Amalli to Capri and Sorrento,
boat with four oars, 40 francs.
The excursions to Herculaneum, Pompeii,
and Vesuvius can all be made on the same
day, but it requires a very early start, and
should not be attempted by ladies or deli-
cate persons, and only when much pressed
for time or when Vesuvius is in a state of
eruption. Take the train direct to Pom-
peii ; spend the morning there ; lunch at
the inn near Diomede's house ; return to
Herculaneum ; from there take horses for
Vesuvius. Or visit Herculaneum, thence
to Resina, where horses are taken to Ve-
suvius, leaving Pompeii for another day.
VESUVIUS.
To visit Vesuvius the traveler was for-
merly obliged to take a carriage or go on
horseback to the Hermitage; thence to
scale the cone on foot or take portantines
(chaises-a-porteurs) to the summit. There
884
is now a mountain railway. The fare is
high.
Vesuvius, the most active volcano in the
world, rises in the midst of the plain of
Campania, and is surrounded on the north
and east by the mountains of Apennine
limestone ; it is open to the plain of Na-
ples on the west, and on the south ii
is reached by the sea. Including Somnvi
on its inland side, it consists of a circular
mass which rises to the height of about
3800 feet above the level of the sea ; the
heightof the eruptive cone of Vesuvius has
been reduced dowji to 3400 feet within the
past few years. A celebrated author says :
"To gain a distinct conception of the
aspect of the hill, shape out for yourself,
br a mental effort, the following objects :
first, a sloping plain three miles long and
three miles broad, stretching up with a
pretty rapid ascent to an elevation of more
than 2000 feet, very rugged in the surface,
and covered every where with black burnt
stones like the scoria? of an iron furnace ;
second, at the head of this plain, and tower-
ing over it, a cone of the same black burnt
stones, with sides remarkably straight and
uniform, shooting up in the blue sky to
a farther elevation of 1500 feet; third,
behind this cone a lofty circular precipice
(the front of Monte Somma), 1400 feet high
and three miles long, standing like a vast
wall, and of the same burnt appearance ;
fourth, at the lower side of the plain, be-
tween the burnt ground and the sea, a
belt of land two miles broad, laid out in
vineyards, but intersected every one or two
furlongs by terraces of the same black
calcined matter, projecting like offshoots
from the central mass, and now and then
unveiling old currents of lava from beneath
them. Very little lava is visible ; but the
course of the different currents is traced by
the long terraces of scoriae which cover and
flank them."
Vesuvius is the representative of a more
ancient and much larger volcano, of which
Monte Sorama is a remnant. A great por-
tion of the cone of the original Vesuvius
was blown up during the first recorded
explosion. The Atrio dei Cavalli, or " Ves-
tibule of Horses,' 1 so called from the f:n-t
of visitors here being obliged to leave their
horses and make the ascent on foot, forms
a circular ring at the base, dividing Ve-
suvius from Somma. It is said more
MEDITERRAN EAN
Harper's
ITS COASTS
Book
VK3TJVICS.
[ITALY.]
VESDVIUS.
minerals have been found in the vicinity
of Vesuvius than in any other spot of the
same dimensions on the surface of the
globe: something like 82 different
are known to have been discovered. Sum
m:i is composed of strabi of fragmentary
and stony matter intermixed, but the stony
matter of Vesuvius consists of lava form-
ing long narrow bands on the surface of
the hill. There are may plants found in
this region which are unknown elsewhere,
Embracing the Knphnrln-acea', and others.
The greater portion of the mountain pre-
sents a bare and rugged appearance, but
around the base it is rather a fertile and pic-
turesque region, studded with plantations,
villages, and white country houses. The
population is reckoned at about 5000 per-
sons to a square league. The ground is in
a high state of cultivation, and yields three
crops a year. It is in the vicinity of Ve-
suvius that the Lacryma Christi is grown.
This luscious vine is scarcely known in
reality, there being but a small production
of it, and that reserved for the royal cel-
lars. The Vino Greco is also justly cele-
brated, as well as the Muscadine vines.
The following account of Vesuvius gives
an interesting and correct idea of its forma-
tion and appearance, the result of an ascent
made in 1818 by M. Simond. "We left
Portici, ascending gradual!}' among culti-
vated fields and vineyards, occasionally
traversed by streams of old lava, black,
rough, and sterile ; and in 1 J- hours reached
the Hermitage, a convent where a few
monks keep a sort of an inn for the visit-
ors of Vesuvius. Farther up we traversed
large fields of lava, extremely rough; and
at the base of the cone prepared for thu
ascent over a heap of crumbling ashes
and cinders, extremely steep, of course, as
it formed an angle of 45. In about one
hour, stoppages included, we found our-
selves on extremely hot ground, intolerable
to the hand, and fatal to the soles of our
>li'ie<; it teemed with hot vapors, and
was covered with beautiful efflorescences
of sulphur. Smoke issued from numerous
crevices, at the entrance of which a piece
of paper or a stick took fire in a few
seconds ; and what seems strange, a stone
thrown into one of these openings increased
the smoke at all the others. Stooping
low, we could hear a noise like that of a
liquid boiling. The hard but thin crust
upon which we stood seemed to have
settled down in some places ; u woeful in-
dication of its hollow state. After a few
steps more we came to the edge of a pro-
digious hole on the very summit of the
cone, being the crater formed by the last
eruption four months previously. This
hole was not the tremendous thing we ex-
pected a fathomless abyss, fiery and black,
with lava boiling at the bottom but a
slope of gray ashes and cinders, much like
that by which we had ascended, or scarcely
more precipitous, and ending at the depth
of 40U or 500 feet, in a level place, with
gray ashes like the rest." There have been
45 known eruptions since the destruction
of Herculaneum and Pompeii. Of those
which occurred previous to the 12th cen-
tury we have but little account. Between
the years 1138 and 1631 but two occurred.
During this interval, however, ^Etna was
in an active state, and the formation of
Monte Nuovo took place during the erup-
tion which occurred in 1G31 ; seven streams
of lava v;ere issued from the centre. When
in action, Vesuvius presents a magnificent
spectacle. In the eruption of 1777 jets of
liquid lava were thrown up to the height of
10,000 feet, presenting the appearance of a
column of fire, and in 1793 millions of red-
hot stones were shot into the air, and then
fell, covering nearly half the cone with lire.
Down to the reign of Titus Vespasian there
is no evidence of any volcanic activity,
but in the first year of his reign (A.D. 79)
it burst forth with destructive fury, over-
whelming the flourishing cities of Hercu-
laneum and Pompeii, all traces of which
were lost for upward of 1COO years, and
were only accidentally discovered during
the last century. It was at this time the
elder Pliny lost his life, and the event has
been described by Pliny the younger, who
was witness to the scene. An eruption
took place in 1858, on which occasion the
crater sank 200 feet, and another in 1862,
which caused an immense loss of life and
property. In 1865 there was another
eruption, also in 1868. There was a slight
one in 1871. In April, 1872, a new crater
was opened, the lava bursting forth with
such velocity near Atrio (lei C'irnl'i that
man}- spectators who had assembled to
witness the spectacle were destroyed.
Part of the towns of Masso and St. Stbas-
tiano were destroyed. The stream of lava
885
HKBCULAXEUM.
[ITALY.]
POMPEII.
was over half a mile wide and twenty feet
deep, while red-hot stones were thrown to
a height of 5000 feet.
To visit Herculaneum, the railway ma}'
be taken to the station Port id, which is
one mile distant from the entrance to the
excavations ; or if visiting Pompeii by car-
riage from Naples, which many do if the
weather is not too hot, and after a rain,
otherwise the roads are very dusty (car-
riage 25 fr.), take Herculaneum on the
way.
1 1 < rcul ineum. In A.D. 79 this city was
destroyed by torrents of volcanic mud,
upon which, in subsequent eruptions, ashes
and streams of lava fell to a depth varying
from 70 to 110 feet : no great loss of life re-
sulted from the destruction of this city. It
is said by an eminent historian to have
been built on elevated ground between two
rivers, thereby rendering the atmosphere
perfectly healthy. Some quite distinguish-
ed Romans resided in the city and suburbs.
Servilia, mother of Brutus, had a villa,
which was given to her by Julius Caesar;
Agrippina, niece of Tiberius, was confined
by that tyrant in another villa, which was
afterward destroyed by her son Caligula.
The only object here which would be view-
ed with much interest by the traveler is
the remains of the ancient theatre, which
is supposed to have accommodated 10,000
persons. Some idea may here be obtain-
ed of the architecture and general arrange-
ment of a Roman theatre. Numisius, son
of Publius, was the architect, and the build-
ing was erected at the expense of Lucius
Annius Mammianus Rufus, judge and cen-
sor. Although the excavations are carried
on in rather a limited manner, Hercula-
neum has furnished the Museum at Naples
with some of its most valuable treasures
of antiquity- statues, busts, mural in-
scriptions, utensils, etc. ; and here the cele-
brated papyrus library of 3000 rolls was
discovered.
The entrance fee to the theatre is 2 fr.,
which entitles the visitor to a guide. An
additional half-franc admits him to a street
newlj' excavated, where the construction
of the houses may be examined ; they
much resemble those of Pompeii.
886
THE RUINS OF POMPEII.
Railway, four trains daily, in 50 minutes ;
fare, first class, 2 fr. 75 c. ; second class,
1 fr. 90 c. Admission daily, 2 fr. fee ; on
Sunday gratis. On week-days you are
compelled to have a guide, which is included
in the 2 fr. On Sunday you can not have
one at any price. A plan which is most
advisable, if you can spare the time, is to go
on a week-day with a guide, and ramble
around on a Sunday without one. The
official guide is not allowed to accept a
fee ; and we must here do them the justice
to say that they refuse it when ottered.
You can however, if you wish, purchase
their photographs.
The early history of Pompeii is involved
in obscurity, but the supposition is that it
was settled by Osci and Pclasgi prior to
the establishment on this coast of the
Greek colonies from Eubcea. It fell into
the hands of the Sainnites about the year
440 B.C., and was taken by the Romans
eighty years afterward ; during the Social
War it revolted with the other Campanian
towns, and but littlu more was known re-
specting it until it was visited by an earth-
quake A.U. 63, which occasioned gre.it de-
struction ; it was afterward overwhelmed
in 79 by the eruption of Vesuvius, and con-
tinued to be buried under the ashes and
other volcanic matter for about 1669 years.
Notwithstanding that the celebrated archi-
tect and engineer, Domenico Fontana, who
was employed in constructing an aqueduct
to convey water to Torre, fell in with the
ruins of the city, no particular attention
was paid to the discovery until 1748, when
the peasants were employed in cutting a
ditch, since which time it has continued to
be an object of great interest, and since
1755 the progress of excavation has been
pretty constantly prosecuted.
Pompeii has the reputation of being
" the most wonderful of the antiquities of
Italv. and one which it is said never dis-
appoints the traveler who is at all acquaint-
ed with the history of ancient Rome. The
impression which it gives of the actual
presence of a Roman town, in all the cir-
cumstantial reality of its existence 2000
years ago, is so vivid and intense that it
requires but a small effort of the imagina-
tion to place yourself among the multitudes
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POMPEII.
[ITALY.]
POMPEII.
which once thronged its streets and thea-
tres, and occupied its now voiceless cham-
bers. The expression so often u>ed, that
you expect to see the inhabitants walk out
of their houses to salute 3-0 u, is scarcely
a figure of speech. Many things, in fact,
concur to foster the illusion. You M>C a
street before you carefully paved and well-
worn, and bordered with trotloirs in good
preservation, as if it had been in use on
the previous day. The houses generally
extend in unbroken lines, and even the di-
lapidation is, in some measure, concealed
l>y the small modern roofs placed over the
walls to protect them from farther waste
by the weather. The doors and windows, |
indeed, are all open, but so they generally
are in the modern houses of Italy ; and the
sombre, brown tints of the walls is not very
different from what is seen in the decayed
towns of the same country at the present
day. You turn to the right and to the
left, and wander from street to street, and
still you have the perfect image of a town
before you, except that no inhabitants ap- (
pear, and these you may suppose have left ;
a few days before. We have detached
pulilic buildings elsewhere, but here we
have a Roman forum, with all its accom- ,
paninu-nts of temples, porticoes, curiae, etc. ;
not indeed perfect, but onh' so injured that j
tvhat is missing can be replaced, and what
is mutilated restored. We have also many
shops, with their utensils of trade in them,
and about a hundred private houses of all
descriptions, from the poor cottage to the
patrician mansion, enabling us for the first
time to obtain a distinct idea of the form
and arrangement of a Roman house, and
giving us, as it were, a glimpse of the do-
mestic life and manners of the people.
The public baths here, which were almo-t
entire, have thrown new light on the struc-
ture of those buildings. Lastly, the tout
tnstmble of the walls, gates, streets, forum,
houses, temples, fountains, theatres, asso-
ciated as they are with each other, give us |
a conception of a Roman town incompara-
bly more clear and satisfactory than any
number of such objects scattered over dis-
tant localities could have furnished."
The walls of the city are nearly 20 feet
thick, and about as high, faced with blocks
of lava inside and out. There are six gates,
and many towers rising above the ram- !
parts, and pierced with arches. The best
means of approach to Pompeii is afforded
by the Appian Way to the "Gate of Her-
culaneum." Along either side of the road
approaching this gate are a number of an-
cient tombs, many of which are in as per-
fect a state as though the}' had been erect-
ed at a more recent period ; they recall
the ancient glories of the Appian, and is
called the Street of the Tombs, through
which we will pass, and note the most im-
portant objects. Man_y of the houses have
derived their names from the paintings
which they contained, and in many cases
from the ro}'al personages in whose honor
the excavations have been made.
Villa of Diomedes. A very interesting
specimen of a suburban villa, and one
of the most extensive private residences
which have been discovered. On the op-
posite side of the road to it is the tomb of
M. Arrius Diomedes, from which circum-
stance the villa received its name. Near
the garden gate of this villa was found the
skeletons of the owner and his attendant,
one holding in his hand the keys of the
villa, the other carrying a purse which
contained one hundred gold and silver coins
of Nero, Vitellius, Vespasian, and Titus.
Tomb of the Arrian Family, situated op-
posite to the villa.
Tomb of the Marble Door, at the junction
of the two roads, originally entered by a
door of marble of a single slab, four feet
high, which worked upon bronze pivots.
Tomb of Naevohia Tyche and M minting
Fuustus, an interesting famih- tomb stand-
ing upon two steps, and having a bas-relief
and inscription upon its front; also a bust
of Nacvoleia.
Cenotaph of Calventitis Qu'etits, an ele-
gant altar-tomb composed of white marble
upon a lofty pedestal in a court 21 feet
square.
Hound Tomb, ornamented with female
figures, vases, etc.
Tomb of A rictus Scaurus. A handsome
monument supported on a square base-
ment, with a side doorwaj' decorated with
fluted pilasters, and leading to the court at
the back of the sepulchral chamber. The
basement is ornamented with representa-
tions of hunting -scenes and gladiatorial
combats.
Villi of Cicero. The supposition is that
this villa did belong to Cicero, although
887
POMPEII.
[ITALY.]
POMPEII.
there is no absolute proof that such was
the case. Some of the finest paintings and
mosaics contained in the Museo Borbonica
were found among its ruins. We also
find in this vicinity some important tombs.
Tomb of Porcius; also Tomb of Mammia
(he Priestess.
Herculaneum Gate. This gate, which
was the most important entrance to the
city, had a central archway twenty feet in
height and fifteen in width. It was of
purely Roman architecture, built altern-
ately of brick and lava. On the outside
of this gate a marble sun-dial was discov-
ered, and on the left of the gate is a fine
specimen of ancient masonry, one of the
best-preserved portions of the walls of
Pompeii.
Street of Herculaneum ascends and pro-
ceeds to the Forum by curves.
House of the Vestals, occupying the space
between two streets. The walls of many
of the bedrooms were richly painted, and
one of them contained the skeleton of a !
dog.
Inn ofAbinus, called "Julius Polybius,"
in consequence of his name having been
found written on the walls.
Thermopolium, opposite to the inn, used
as a drinking-house.
House of Sallust derived its name from
the inscription C. Sallust, M. F., which
was painted on the outer wall. This was
one of the largest mansions in the city,
occupying a surface of 40 square yards.
House ofPansa, occupying an area of
over 300 feet by 121, and extending into
four streets, is a large and interesting man-
sion. The garden was half as large as the
mansion, witli the remains of a fountain in
the centre, and a reservoir in one corner.
In one of the bedrooms of the dwelling
five female, skeletons were found.
House of Apollo, with richly -painted
walls, fountain, and a garden decorated
beautifully with Bacchanalian garlands.
One of the rooms contains paintings of
Apollo, Venus, and Juno.
House of Adonis derives its name from
a large painting illustrating Adonis wound-
ed by the wild boar, and consoled by Ve-
nus.
Home of the Tragic Poet, also called the
House of Homer small, but one of the most
elegant private residences in Pompeii.
House of Castor and Pollux, of great mag-
nificence, large, and decorated in elegant
style.
ffni/aa of the Faun, deriving its name
from the bronze statuette of the Dancing
Faun. It is sometimes called the House
of thi- Great Mosaic, from the great mosaic
of the battle of Issus or Granicus. This
was supposed to be the largest and most
ele.-rant of the Pompeian houses.
Temple of Fortune, erected by and at the
private expense of Marcus Tullius, sup-
posed to be a member of Cicero's family.
It is small, and of Corinthian architecture.
Public Baths, an establishment of consid-
erable extent, erected at the expense of
Gnaeus Alifius Nigidius Maior.
The Forum, by far the most spacious and
imposing spot in Pompeii, occupying an
elevated position about 400 yards from the
Herculaneum Gate.
Temple of Jupiter, situated on an ele-
vated basement at the north end of the
Forum. The location is the finest in the
city, commanding, from its elevated posi-
tion, a magnificent view of Vesuvius and
the Apennines.
Temple of Venus. The most superb of
all the temples in Pompeii ; situated on
the west side of the Forum, and occupying
an area of 150 feet by 75.
The Basilica, situated at the southwest
angle of the Forum, 221 feet long and 80
broad. Among the inscriptions under the
portico were some verses from Ovid's Art
of Love.
Temple of Augustus, called also the Pan-
theon, the inner walls of which were rich-
ly decorated ; and among the beautiful
paintings found here may be mentioned
Ulysses in disguise meeting Penelope on
his return to Ithaca.
House of Adonis, also named Diana, and
lastly Queen Caroline. The derivation of
the names are as follows : 1st, from the
painting of Venus and Adonis ; 2d. from a
marble statue of the goddess found in one
of the rooms ; and the third in memory of
the wife of Murat.
Houae of the Emperor Francis II. A
small mansion, which was opened in the
presence of his imperial majesty of Austria.
House of M. Lucretius. The most im-
portant house described, with the excep-
tion of that of the Faun. In December,
1875, while the workmen were making ex-
cavations near the Usurer's House, they
POMPEII.
[ITALY.]
GROTTO OF PosiLipro.
came on a silver altar, on which were two
goblets of the same metal ; several cups
and saucers and spoons in similar material,
and greatly resembling in form those now
in use ; a chair iiK-rusti-d with silver, two
gold ear-rings, and some other objects of
ilue. In the same place have been
found some frescoes, one of great value
for its excellent state of preservation.
They have all been transferred to the
Museum.
Greek Temple, also called the Temple, of
Xeptune, or of Hercules, situated on one of
the highest points of ground, and is the
most ancient building yet discovered.
The- Greut or Tragic Theatre, supposed to
have been capable of containing 5000 per-
sons, was erected in an elevated position,
and escaped in a great measure the devas-
tation which swept over other houses situ-
ated on the plain.
Jinrrackt of the Troops, a very large in-
closure, 184 feet long by 147 wide. It was
formerly called the Forum Xnndinnarium.
These barracks, when first excavated, ex-
hibited reminiscences of military life in ev-
ery portion of them. A large number of
skeletons were found here.
The Amphitheatre. This building is
more ancient than the Coliseum at Rome,
which was not completed until a year after
the destruction of Pompeii. It has been
estimated to accommodate 10,000 persons.
Other objects of interest among the ru-
ins the guides will point out : new ones
are daily being excavated.
Most everything found at Pompeii, in-
cluding the beautiful statues of 1882, is rx-
hibitcd at the National Museum of Naples.
Excursion to Puzzuoli, Baits, Misenum,
Cwnce, and So/fufara.
One of the longest and most varied
excursions to be made in a single day
is to that truly historic and classic region
situated between the Bay of Naples and
Gaeta, every spot of which is famili:ir
to the reader of Roman history. Com-
mencing with the Grotto of Posilippo,
Lake Agnano, Puzzuoli, Baiae, Cuma>, Mi-
senum, and Solfatara, the diversity of this
excursion may be imagined by a catalogue
made by Jarvis of what he "did"' in one
day. It can be done, though three days
would be better. " Two craters, five lakes,
four ruined cities, five grottoes, and vapor
baths more or less poisonous, an amphi-
theatre, one ruined prison, two ruined res-
ervoirs, one ruined gate, two ruined aque-
ducts and bridges, seven ruined villas,
three fish-ponds, and six temples, includ-
ing thirty miles carriage ride, three miles
donkey-back, distance man-back uncertain,
some five or six miles walking, climbing.
stumbling, and subterranean exploring,
besides a small piece of boating, and the
paying of upward of 30 distinct fees and
gratuities!"
A carriage will cost say 30 fr. for a
party. Start early in the morning, taking
from the hotel the most honest valet-de-
place you can find, and give him a carte
blanche to pay all fees, donkey-hire, etc.,
to keep you rid of all beggars, sellers of
antiques manufactured at Puzzuoli and,
in fact, to act as a body-guard, and keep
you from being swindled and imposed
upon.
It would require a volume to describe
what may be seen on this excursion ; we
shall consequently give but a short syn-
opsis.
The Grotto of Posilippo (at the entrance
of which is Virgil's tomb) is only a tunnel
cut through the hill half a mile in length,
about 75 feet high, through which we pass
on our way to Puzzuoli, the principal siiiht
of which is the Temple of Jupiter Sera-
pis, discovered about the middle of the 18th
century, at the time of the erection of the
Toledo Palace, where it had been buried
by an earthquake. Most of its beautiful
columns, graceful statuary, and elegant-
colored marbles were removed by the King
of Naples to decorate his palace and thea-
tre at Caserta. Fee, 1 fr. 50 c.
Here also may be seen the immense
Mole constructed by the Emperor Caligu-
la, the amphitheatre in which the Emperor
Nero fought, and under which St. Janua-
rius was imprisoned, 480 by 380 feet ; the
Temple of the Nymphs, the Temple of
Neptune, and the Villa of Cicero, or what
remains of it. This last contained for a
long time the remains of the Emperor Ha-
drian, who died at Baiae, previous to their
removal to his splendid mausoleum at
Rome. There are also the remains of
numerous baths, temples, and tombs. On
our way we pass the monastery of the Cap-
pucini, where St. Junuarius suffered mar-
tyrdom. The stone on which he was be-
headed is here shown.
889
LAKE AVERNCS.
[ITALY.]
GKOTTO DEL CANE.
From Puzzuoli to the half-extinct vol-
cano of Solfatara is nearly one mile :
donkey, 1 fr. ; no carriage-road ; entrance,
50 c. each person. This is the Forum
Vulcani of Strabo. The ground is warm.
and hollow in every direction. The con-
ductor will throw down a large stone, which
makes the shell on which you stand trem-
lile. At one end of the crater there is a
small opening where for 2000 years the
hot fire has been belching forth.
Leaving Puzzuoli, we pass the Monte
Nuoro, so called on account of its compar-
atively recent origin, which occurred on
the night of September 30, 1538, after a
great earthquake. The ground previously
had been perfectly level. We now arrive
at Lake Avemus, which is connected with
Lake Lucrine by a canal cut by the Em-
peror Agrippa. Here we have the Sibyfs
Cave, immortalized by Virgil. If you are
anxious to be choked with foul air, covered
with soot and smoke, you may traverse the
entrance mounted on a man's back, who
follows another carrying a torch, and get
landed up to the knees in water in a small-
sized stone chamber black as midnight
that's the Grotto ! A short distance far-
ther there is another grotto, the duplicate
of this. Virgil deserves much credit in
his selection of such an avenue to the in-
fernal regions. Here yEneas, conducted by
the Sibyl, offered sacrifices to the infernal
gods. Admission, 1 fr. each person, and
5 if the guide can get it. Lake Lucrine
is eelebrated for its oyster-beds, from
which the Romans derived their supply of
bivalves.
After passing the hot Baths of Nero, sit-
uated under where his villa is supposed to
have stood, and where you can have eggs
boiled in two minutes by a guide who will
charge you as much as he can get for them,
you arrive at the Bay of Baice, so justly
celebrated by Horace. The town of Baia?,
if we credit Cicero, was one of the most
dissolute and licentious cities in Italy.
During both the Roman and Middle Ages
it was notorious for its profligacy. Mar-
tial says the Roman matrons arrived here
with the reputation of Penelope and left it
with that of Helen. And even as late as
the fifteenth century the ladies of Naples,
in leaving it, left their virtue behind them.
It is said it was the ruin of both old and
young. Here you will find a grand hotel,
890
but maccaroni and vinegar are the only in-
! ducements to patronize it. Hotel delta Re-
gina better. The principal objects of cu-
riosity are the castle of Don Pedro dc
Toledo, and the numerous baths, temples,
etc., etc. It is said the Emperor Hadrian
starved himself to death here.
We now pass the tomb of Agrippina,
the villa of Hortensius, or the foundations
of it in the water. Here Nero plotted the
death of his mother, whom he killed at her
villa near Lucrine.
M'tivnn, the principal naval port of the
Romans ; here Caesar Augustus, Mark An-
tony, and Pompey met to divide the Ro-
man Empire.
We now arrive at the Area Felice, the
gatewaj- of the old city of Cumae, from the
top of which a splendid view may be ol -
taincd, including the retreat and spot on
which the great Scipio Africanus breathed
his last. Oumre has recenth- become no-
torious for the immense number of tombs
which have been discovered, containing
not only skeletons, but armor, pictures,
vases, and jewelry. The excavations have
brought to light three distinct races. The
uppermost stratum consists of the narrow
graves of the Romans, beneath this the
tombs of the early Greek settlers, and
deeper still, some fifty feet below the sur-
face, the original sepulchres of an unknown
race.
We now pass the ancient I.iternum, im-
mortalized as the residence of Scipio Afri-
eanus. To this place lie retired after being
falsely accused of peculation by his coun-
trymen.
The Lakf Ar/nano is about three miles
in circumference ; its waters were noted
for the cure of gout and rheumatism, but
lately the lake has been drained in the
same manner as Fucino, which has rather
marred the beauty of the scene. Near
the Stufe di San Germano is the Grotto
del Cane, where unfortunate dogs are near-
ly killed for the benefit of visitors, to show
them the effect of carbonic-acid gas. These
dogs, it is said, are so in the habit of dying
that they don't mind it at all. The, oper-
ator holds the dog by the legs, with his
', head close to the surface : in one minute
he is in convulsions. A lighted torch held
close to the ground is immediately extin-
guished; and it is said that a pistol can
not be fired within its influence. It it
ISCHIA.
[ITALY.]
KOLTES.
continually exhaling from the opening
volumes of steam and gas.
From the Grotto to Axtroni, one of the
principal volcanic craters in the country :
it is three miles in circumference. It is now-
used as a deer preserve for the royal chase.
The islands of Ischia and Procida.
During the season, which is in summer,
steamers leave several times each day for j
Procida and Ischia. Fare, 5 fr. (liable to
change). There is also a small fare for j
embarking at Naples, and for disembarking '
at Procida and at Casamicciola. In win- j
ter steamers leave Naples several times a
week.
There is little of importance to be seen
in Procida ; but, if going to Ischia, the
traveler can land at the town of Procida,
and, ascending to the fort, obtain a beauti-
ful view of the bay, then walk across the
island (two miles) and take a boat to Is-
chia. It would be as well, however, to
proceed direct to Ischia, landing near Ca-
tamicriola. (The landing-place is a mile
and a quarter from the town.) There are
donkeys at the landing to convey passen-
gers to the town ; fare, 50 c.
Ischia is nearly 16 miles in circumfer-
ence, and contains a population of 28,200,
whose principal occupation is the culture
of the grape and fishing. The fame of its
mineral springs has descended from the
remotest antiquity. When the shores of
the bordering mainland were dotted with
Roman villas, the bathing establishments
near and at Casamiceiola were then, as
now, in high favor among invalids with
weak lungs, skin diseases, etc. ; in fact,
it has been said by one who was cured
by these baths : "If there exists a disease
that can not be cured by one or another of
the waters of this island, when properly
prescribed and made use of, it must be a
disorder that can never be cured at all."
A terrible earthquake in 1883 ruined Casa-
micciola, Forio, and Lacco Ameno, killing
3000 persons.
An excursion should be made to Monte
Epomeo, 2700 feet. The view of the bay
on a lovely day is a sight forever to be re-
membered.
The pri nci pal places on the island are /Yore,
with 8000 inhabitants; Ischia, with 6100; and
ruined Casamicciola. The waters are most-
ly beneficial in diseases of a chronic nature.
Naples to Paris. Time, 49 h. 20 m. 5
fare, first class, 21, "> fr. 5"> c.
Naples to I-'oggia. Time. 5 h. 35 m.;
fare, first class, 22 fr. 40 c.
Naples to Rome. Time, 6 h. 37 m. ; fare,
first class, 28 fr. 75 c. (ordinary); second
class, 27 fr. 65 c. Express fares, first class,
28 fr. 75 c. ; second class, 23 fr. 70 c.
Naples to Ancona. Time, 13 h. 15 m.
(to Bologna, 19 h. 35 m.); fare, first class,
59 fr. 10 c. ; second class, 41 fr. 20 c.
Naples to Palermo. Florio & Co.'s
steamers ; office at Naples, Philiero No. 5 ;
five times each week, in from 18 to 20
hours. Fare, first class, 38 fr. 50 c. ; sec-
ond class, 22 fr. 50 c.
Naples to Marseilles (by sea). First
class, 1*1 fr.
Naples to Messina. Average 21 hours ;
fares, first class, exclusive of food, 38 fr.
50 c.
Messageries Maritimes touch here on
their route to Athens, Alexandria, and
Constantinople, and vessels of different
lines are leaving almost daily for Leghorn
and Genoa ; also weekly to Messina, Ca-
tania, then Corfu and Brindisi.
Bankers. Messrs. W. J. Turner $ Co.,
64 Santa Lucia, cash letters of credit,
drafts, circular notes, etc ; exchange, reg-
ister, reading-room, etc.
Druggist. KernoCm English Pharmacy,
Strada S. Carlo, 14. best in Naples ; patent
medicines, prescriptions carefully prepared.
Restaurant. De V Europe, Piazza. S. Fer-
dinando.
Watchmaker (Swiss). Mr. F. Wyss,
Strada Santa Brigida, 47 et 47 bis, has the
largest assortment of stem-winders ; re-
pairs effected in a few hours.
ROUTE No. 226.
Xnp'es to Regg'w, via Salerno, Eboli, Cas-
fiino. ( '<).<' tizn. < 'nt'inziro, and Monteleone.
Tliis route is one of great length three
hundred miles by carriage from the termi-
nus of the line at Eboli. Time, 10 days
from Eboli. A contract should be made
with the vetturini. The Corriere performs
the distance in 77 hours ; fare, 63 fr. 75 c.
There are only three seats in the diligence ;
and if the traveler contracts fur a certain
distance, and before he arrives at the ter-
minus some one else wants his place who
will pay for twenty miles farther, the first
occupant of the seat must pay all of that
891
POLLA.
[ITALY.]
MONTELEONE.
distance or vacate his seat at once ! The
people say it is not law, but custom has
made it justice, as that is the only way to
keep the places occupied.
Eboli und Aulelta, described in Route
No. 227.
Descending into the valley otDiano, the
beautifully situated town of Polla is seen
tin the right. It was almost entirely de-
itroyed by the earthquake of 1857.
The towns of Sola and Diano are both
situated on picturesque heights on opposite
sides of the river.
Near the town of Padula are the ruins
of the Certosa of San Lorenzo, to the north
of which is the town of Mcusico, formerly
a haunt of brigands. It contains 15,000
inhabitants, but suffered much in 1857 by
the earthquake of that year.
Passing the village of Cusalnitovo, con-
taining 3000 inhabitants, and crossing the
River Trecchina, the town of Lagontgro is
reached, the stopping-place of the carriage
for the third day. It contains 6000 inhal>-
itants. It was here, in 1806, that the
French gained a victory over the Neapol-
itans.
The town of Lauria, with 10,000 inhab-
itants, is seen on the side of lofty hills,
and CasteUuccio is reached; this town is
built on a branch of the Lao, and consists
of an upper and lower town, surrounded by
woods which abound in game.
Rotondo, situated on a hill, contains 5200
inhabitants ; it is the frontier town of the
province of Calabria Citra, and was the
scene of the complete rout of the Neapol-
itans before the French General Regnier
in 1806.
CastroviUari is situated on a loft}- emi-
nence surrounded by hills, and contains
9000 inhabitants, with a Norman castle.
A road turns here to the left to Cassano,
passing through Frascitnto and Porcile,
distant ten miles. For description, see
Route No. 228.
Cosenzri, or Cosentia, the metropolis of
the Bruttians, and where the remains of
Alexander, king of Epirus, were interred.
It is now the capital of the province of Ca-
labria Citra, and contains 18,000 inhabit-
ants. Its houses are well built, among
which is the palace of the archbishop. The
town is subject to frequent vi.-itutions from
earthquakes, and in IT*:; ;il.(it(i persons
perished. The shocks were so severe in
892
1870 that the castle walls, which are nine
feet thick, were complete!}- shattered.
The town was taken by the Saracens in
1009, then by the Normans, who established
themselves here in 1130. Alaric, kiiiL; of
the Goths, died before its walls while be-
sieging it, and was buried in the bed of
the Bussento by his soldiers.
As Philippe III. of France was return-
ing from his conflict with the Moors, and
passing through Calabria with the dead
body of Louis IX., his father, and the bodies
of his brother, brother-in-law, and son, his
first wife, Isabella of Aragon, died while at
Cosenza.
The Cathedral contains the tomb of
Louis III. of Anjou, who died here in 1435,
one year and a half after his marriage had
been solemnized in this church.
There is a road from Cosenza to Pao'a
on the coast, where steamers touch weekly.
Rogliuno is a small town in a charming
position, commanding a prospect over a
beautiful and fertile country. It was
partly destroyed by an earthquake in 1638,
one quarter of its population perishing.
Tiriolo is situated on the ridge of the
Apennines which separates the Corace and
the Lamato. It contains 4500 inhabitants.
Numerous antiquities have been discovered
in its vicinity ; among others a decree of
the senate relative to the Bacchanalian
conspiracy mentioned by Livy, B.C. 186.
It is now in the Imperial collection at Vi-
enna.
A road leads to the left to Catanzaro
(see Route No. 228) ; another to the right
leads to Nicastro, distance seven miles.
It contains the castle in which the Emper-
or Frederick II. confined his son Henry,
who, having been crowned King of Ger-
many when a boy, revolted against his fa-
ther. He was drowned while fording the
River Savunto on horseback. Three miles
east of this are the ruins of the Benedictine
monastery of . Evft mia, founded by Rob-
ert Guiscard.
The road now approaches the shore, on
which is situated the town of Pizzo, where
steamers from Naples touch weekly.
Monteleone, situated in an admirable po-
sition, commanding a riew of the distant
surroundings, and overtopped by a pictur-
esque castle erected by Frederick II. It
is the chief town in the district, and con-
tains 10,500 inhabitants.
MlLETO.
[ITALY.]
POTKJCZA.
Mtitto. This town, which was entirely
destroyed by an earthquake in 1783, was
the favorite residence of Count Roger of
Sicily. His son. King Roger, was born
here. Count Roger founded an abbey of
the Holy Trinity, and carried off the mar-
ble columns from the temple of Proserpine
to enrich it. Its ruins are still to be seen ;
but the sarcophagi which contained the
remains of himself and wife, originally in-
terred in the abbey, have been removed to
the Museum at Naples.
Kosarno, a town of 3500 inhabitants, is
passed, and Pulmi, the capital of the dis-
trict, reached. It is situated on a high
cliff rising out of the sea, and surrounded
by gardens of oranges and olive planta-
tions. Its position is superb, and the views
it commands of much more than ordinary-
interest : these are the never-ceasing vol-
cano of Stromboli, the Lipari Islands, Mes-
sina, with its background of small volcanic
hills, and the enormous peak of Mount
Ktna in the distance.
A short distance to the east of Palmi is
the battle-field where in 1495 the French
gained a famous victory over the Span-
iards. In 1503 the Spaniards were the
conquerors on nearly the same spot.
Scilltt, a town of 7000 inhabitants, pict-
uresquely situated on a promontory which
connects the castle with the mainland. It
is noted for its silk and wine.
The Rock of Scylla is represented by
Homer as a voracious sea-monster. It is
depirted by other ancient poets as a beau-
tiful female above the water, and below
as six dogs' heads with horrible faces con-
tinually growling.
On the morning of the 5th of February.
1783, the principal part of the town was
overthrown by an earthquake, together
with the castle : the inhabitants fled to the
sea, but nearly 2000 were drowned.
Sixteen miles from Sc-illa is Reggio, the
ancient Rhegium, founded 723 years B.C.
by a colony of Messenians. It received a
Roman garrison 280 B.C., but the garrison
murdered all the males to become p.
ed of the females for mistresses. The well-
deserved punishment that Rome inflicted
on her soldiers was severe. Julius Ca>-ar
restored it and gave it his name. It was
the last possession of the Greek empire in
Italy. It fell under the dominion of the
Normans in the llth centurv, and their
VOL. II.-Q "
chief, Robert Guiscard, was elected Due de
Pouille et de Calabre. It was united to
the kingdom of Italy at the commence-
ment of the 16th century. It was nearly
destroyed by the earthquake of 1783, and
suffered considerably from the same cause
in 1841. It now contains a population of
16,000, but is situated in the midst of a
most populous district. It is nearly five
miles from Reggio to Messina ; but there is
no doubt that the island of Sicily was once
connected with the mainland.
Steamers to Messina twice daily ; fare
2 francs.
ROUTE No. 227.
Naples to Tarnnto, via Eboli, Potenza,
and Matera (railway in progress from
Eboli to Taranto). Time by rail to Eboli,
3 hours; fare, first class, 9 fr. 5 c. The
road is finished as far as Balvano; fare,
first class, 14 fr. 25 c.
Eboli is beautifully situated on a height
commanding an extensive view of the sea,
the forests of Persano, and the ruins of
Psestum. The remainder of this route as
far as Auletta is described in the preceding
route. No. 226.
At Eboli a branch line of railway runs
to Contursi in 45 minutes.
From Auletta to Potenza there is a dili-
gence daily in 9 hours ; fare 9 francs ; poor
accommodation. Auletta and surround-
ings suffered fearfully from the earthquake
of 1857 ; over 30,000 lives were lost, two
thirds of whom died of hunger and cold.
Potenza is the capital of the province of
that name, and contafns 16, 000 inhabitants.
This town also suffered from the earth-
quake of 1857, many lives being lost.
Diligence from here to Actrenza in 3
hours. To Melfi in 9 hours, whence there
is a diligence to Candeki, on the line to
Foggia, distance 27 miles.
898
ROUTE.
[ITALY.]
ROUTE.
We hope the coming year to be able to
chronicle the opening of the route by rail
to Taranto.
From Bari (see Route No. 216) to Ta-
ranto, railway lately opened. Time, 3 h.
40 m. ; fare, first class, 10 fr.15 c. ; second
class; 7 fr. 60 c.
ROUTE No. 228.
Taranto to Reggia by the eastern coast ;
railway nearly completed will probably
be opened in 1877. As the remaining fifty
or sixty miles can only be accomplished
by walking or on mule-back, and there be-
ing really little to see that can not now be
894
seen from the steamers that weekly pass
along the coast, we shall defer a descrip-
tion of the route until the railway is fin-
ished.
At Taranto there is not a lodging-place
that approaches in the slightest degree to
either decency or comfort.
ROUTE No. 229.
Naples to the ruins of Pcestum. This
route is described in excursions from Na-
ples.
Naples to Palermo, by Florio & Co.'s
steamers, five times each week, in from 18
to 20 hours ; fare, first class. 38 fr. 50 c. ;
second class, 22 fr. 50 c.
Embarkation, 1 frtoc each persoii.
SICILY AND MALTA.
CLIMATE.
[SICILY.]
SICILY.
Sicily is the largest, finest, most fruit-
ful, and most celebrated island in the Med-
iterranean. Its greatest length is about
180 miles, by upward of 100 in its widest
limits. It is separated from the southern
extremity of Italy by the narrow Strait of
Messina, only two miles across. The shape
of the island is triangular, and it gradually
narrows from its eastern shores toward its
westernmost limit. A range cf mountains
extends through the length of Sicily in
the neighborhood of the northern coast.
All the lower portion of these mountains,
which average 6000 feet in height, is cov-
ered with dense and beautiful vegetation.
Higher up, the woody region encircles
the mountains, and the upper part is na-
ked, and blackened by the tires of numer-
ous eruptions. The valleys of Sicily are
thickly inhabited, and covered with ol-
ives, vines, corn, fruit-trees, and aromatic
herbs. Sicily is well watered by numer-
ous small rivers, and its harbors are con-
siderable and good. Near the eastern side
of the island rises the gigantic cone of
./Etna, called by the Sicilians Mount Gibello.
Its base is 80 miles in circumference, and
it rises to the stupendous height of 10,872
feet above the level of the Mediterranean.
Its base is highly cultivated ; higher up,
the woody district, and above the forest
there is a waste of black lava. The crater
is about two miles in circumference ; in
addition to which there are numerous small
cones, where the fire contained within has
burst through its shattered sides.
The population of Sicily amounts to
nearly 2,500,000 ; its area in square miles,
10,500. Its vegetable products embrace
numerous tropical as well as European
plants. It is believed to have been the
native country of corn, and Homer says
cf its inhabitants,
" Untaught to plant, to turn the glebe, and sow,
They all their products to free Nature owe;
The soil untill'd, a ready harvest yields.
With wheat and barley wave the golden fields ;
Spontaneous vines from weighty cluster* pour,
And Jove descends in each prolific shower."
Sicily was in ancient times the seat of
many flourishing Greek colonies ; and the
presumption is, its population was then
double what it is at the present time. It
fell successively under the government of
the Carthaginians, Romans, Goths, Greek
emperors, Saracens, Normans, and French,
till at length it became a dependency, first
of the crown of Spain, and more recently
that of Naples ; it is now annexed to the
kingdom of Victor Emmanuel.
The principal products and exports of
Sicily are olive-oil, oranges, lemons, al-
monds, and other fruits, maize, rice, beans,
pulse, manna, flax, hemp, liquorice, and
sumach. The wine trade is carried on to
a very great extent. The best wines of
the island grow on ^Etna, and are red, be-
ing almost the only good red wine of the
class in the island, though others are pro-
duced at Taormina and Faro, but they
have a taint of pitch. Syracuse produces
over its smouldering remains a red mus-
cadine equal to any other in the world, if
not superior. A white vin de liqueur is also
made here, but only of the second class.
Messina furnishes much wine for exporta-
tion. The Val di Mazara and its vine-
yards give wines known in America as
well as ^Etna and Bronte. Marsala, when
obtained without the admixture of execra-
ble Sicilian brandy, is an agreeable wine,
something like Madeira of the second class,
and of great body.
Smyth, in his description of Sicilian char*
acter, says : " They are of middle stature,
well made, with dark eyes and coarse black
hair ; their features are better than their
complexions ; and they attain maturity and
begin to decline earlier than the inhabit-
ants of more northern regions. They are
cheerful, inquisitive, and fanciful, with a
redundance of unmeaning compliments,
showing they are not so deficient in nat-
ural talents as in their due cultivation.
Their delivery is vehement, rapid, full of
action, and their gesticulation violent ; the
895
PALERMO.
[SICILY.]
PALERMO.
latter is so significant as almost to possess
the power of speech, and animates them
with peculiar vivacity, bordering, howev-
er, rather on conceit than wit, or. farce than
humor.
"The upper classes are incorrigibly in-
dolent, and fond to excess of titles and
such like marks of distinction. Here, in
fact, every house is a palace, every handi-
craft is a profession, every respectable per-
son at least an excellency, and every er-
rand-boy is charged with an embassy!
This love of ostentation is so inveterate
that the poorer nobility and gentry are
penurious in the extreme in their domes-
tic arrangements, and almost starve them-
selves to be able to appear abroad in the
evening in a poverty-stricken equipage."
Accounts in Sicily are kept in francs.
On arriving at Palermo passengers are
convej'ed to the Dogano, 1 franc for each
person ; here baggage is examined ; fare
to the hotel 1 franc, distance nearly one
mile.
PALERMO.
Palermo the ancient Panormus con-
tains a population of 219,398 with its sub-
urbs. Principal hotels are H. A . la Trina-
cria, which rises above a delightful walk
by the sea, and //. de France, on Piazza
Marina. The prices of these hotels aver-
age 14 fr. 50 c. per day. Hotel Olivia 10
francs per day. This city, which is regu-
larly built, is situated on the southwest
side of an extensive bay, in a wide plain,
bounded by Alpine mountains, which, from
its luxuriance, has been termed the " Gold-
en Shell." Every where the eye can rest
one sees orchards in bloom, fields of cac-
tuses glistening in the sun, gardens of or-
ange-trees, fields watered by small canals
that fertilize the soil of Palermo.
In front of the city, commanding de-
lightful views of sea, shore, and mountain,
is the Marini, a raised terrace or platform,
extending a mile along the bay : it is 250
feet wide, and one of the finest public prom-
enades in Palermo. Immediately below
this there is a beautiful drive, formerly
adorned with statues of the Bourbon kings.
They were thrown down in the Revolution
of 1848. At the east end of this walk is
the Villa Giulia, or the Public Garden, laid
out in walks interspersed with statues,
896
fountains, and summer-houses. There is
one lone fountain where the water falls
OTer green niches, in which fresh nosegays
are placed every day ; the effect of these
flowers, seen through the falling crystal,
is truly delightful. Adjoining this garden
is the Botanical Garden, which contains a
large collection of very valuable plants;
at the entrance is a beautiful building, in
which botanical lectures are delivered. To
enter both gardens a fee is demanded ; in
fact, every where you go here it is the
same; but they are satisfied with very
little.
Two large streets, the Strada Xuovo
and Strada Toledo, each upward of a mile
in length, intersect each other at riirht
angles, dividing the city into four equal
parts, and leading to the four principal
gates. These four different parts or quar-
ters of the city are known by their re-
spective names of Loggia, Albergaria, KaU
sa, and Capo.
The main street of Palermo, the Toledo,
is perfectly straight, and passes through
the city from Porta Felice to Porta Nuova.
It preserves in its aspect, as well as its
name, evident tokens of Spanish presence.
Indeed, many influences are visible : the
Greeks, the Carthaginians, who made Pa-
lermo the capital of their Sicilian domin-
ions ; the Romans, the Saracens, the Nor-
mans, and the Spaniards, have held her
successively. Palermo may have forgot-
ten her ancient rulers, but she has kept
vivid traces of her modern masters. The
streets are well paved with large flat blocks
of lava, and are lined throughout their
whole length with handsome buildings in
the Doric, Ionian, and Corinthian orders,
and enriched with statues and fountains.
Nearly all the finest mansions have mis-
erable shops at the base, and when the oc-
cupant is short of room he usurps the side-
walk, making the foot-passenger walk in
the middle of the street among the car-
riages. Nearly all these houses have large
picturesque balconies, where the ladies
spend a large portion of their time. They
are generally on the upper floor, and are
mostly hired by nuns, who have under,
ground passages that lead from their clois-
ters ; they come here to breathe the fresh
evening air after the heat of the day. The
balconies are so closely grated that it is
impossible to see them.
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PALEHMO.
[SICILY.]
PALEBMO.
Palermo has a great number of convents
and churches. There is said to bo alxiut
seventy-five of the former. The churches,
especially those that line the Toledo, are
almost all magnificent immense amounts
have been lavished in splendid marbles
and costly alabasters. Many of them are
absolutely covered with mosaics; the
floors, chapels, and columns, of inlaid mar-
ble ; and the altars and tabernacles of pre-
cious stones, lapis lazuli, verd- antique,
malachite, and jasper. They are nearly
all built with an elevated fa9ade, a long
nave, and two side aisles, bounded by lat-
eral chapels, dedicated to various saints,
and decorated with pillars, paintings, stat-
ue-, and flowers.
The C'lthcdral is a beautiful specimen of
the Sicilian-Arab-Norman style; it is sit-
uated at the end of the Toledo, in a wide
piazza. It was erected by Archbishop
Waller near the close of the 12th century.
The interior has been desecrated by white-
wash. It contains some very good paint-
ings ; a statue of St. Ifosalie, the patron
saint of Palermo ; the tombs of Roger, the
founder of the Norman kingdom of Sicily,
that of Ferdinand II. and his wife Con-
stance, etc., etc.
Other churches well worth visiting are
St. Giuseppe and Martorana : the last be-
longs to the convent of Benedictine nuns.
The nave is built in the Arab and Norman
style ; the walls and high altar are mag-
nificent with mosaic, lapis lazuli, verd-an-
tique, and porphyry.
S. Dominica is one of the largest church-
es, and well deserves a visit. It contains
some good pictures.
The Royal Palace, the residence of the
viceroy, stands on a large square near the
Porta Nuova ; it was begun by the Sara-
cens, continued and finished by the Nor-
mans. One of the chambers of this palace
contains the portraits of the Spanish, Nea-
politan, and Sicilian viceroys. The apart-
ments immediately above the viceroy's arc
kept in constant readiness for the king
whenever he chooses to visit Sicilv. Dur-
ing the Revolution of 1848 the population
threw all the furniture out of the windows
and destroyed it. They also destroyed one
of the two ancient bronze Rams found at
Syracuse. The palace contains a gallery
of pictures and a good armory. On its
summit is the observatory from which Pioz-
za discovered the planet Ceres. There is
a beautiful view of the city and harbor
from this point.
Attached to this palace is the Cappella
Pal'itina, or church of St. Peter, built by
Roger II. in the early part of the 13th cen-
tury a splendid monument of the mag-
nificence of the Norman sovereigns. This
chapel is small and elegant ; its eight arch-
es are supported by tiim marble columns;
its walls are of richly colored mosaic, and
the pavement of variegated marbles.
The Museum is situated near the Porta
Macqueda ; open daily from 10 to 3, except
fete-days and Mondays ; fee, 1 franc. It
contains a collection of Antiquities, and a
picture-gallery of little importance.
The private collection of Principe Tra-
fna, in the Via Macqueda, deserves a visit.
It possesses some splendid specimens of
Venetian glass and Sicilian vases.
Through the Porta Nuova, not far from
the king's palace, but still in the country,
stands the Palace of Zisa, a real Saracen
edifice built in the Uth or 10th century. It
is still in good repair, and has been sev-
eral times used lately as a royal residence.
The view from this point is most grand :
the city, the bay, the mountains that in-
close the plain of Palermo on everv side,
are in full view, adorned with groves the
bamboos, the magnolias, and the gerani-
ums, which here grow to the height of an
ordinary tree : these, with the palm-trees
waving in the air with mingled majesty
and grace, and flowers of every kind grow-
ing freely, unsheltered by glass prisons,
seem to render the scene an earthly para-
dise.
Near the Palace of Zisa is the Capuchin
convent containing the celebrated Cata-
combs. There are an immense number of
bodies in this receptacle, and the sight is
truly disgusting. The males are all stand-
ing on their feet on shelves, and the fe-
males are laid down in bexes with glass
lids, dressed in the same clothes they wore
during life many of them in their bridal
robes. The bodies are either nun:'
or the name of the person on a ticket is at-
tached. The position they occupy in the
(.'atai-ombs costs $5 for the males and 10
for the females. Some of the bodies have
been here sevtr.il centuries. Among oth-
ers is that of the King of Tunis : he was
shipwrecked on the coast of Sicily, wa*
897
PALERMO.
[SICILY.]
PALERMO.
saved by the Capuchin monks, and taken to
their convent, where he fell sick. While
ill he embraced the Christian religion ; he
died, and his body is here preserved. Aft-
er death the body goes through a process
of embalming, previous to which it is kept
under running water for six months. Ev-
ery monk who has died here since the
foundation of the convent is stuck up
dressed in the habiliments of the order.
They are pointed out with apparent pride
and satisfaction by one of the fraternity.
1 Among the sights well worth seeing in
Palermo is the Palazzu I '< rc> He. command-
ing a very beautiful view of the harbor.
It is built, as Prince Napoleon's house in
Rue Montagne, Paris, to represent a Pom-
peian villa.
Nearly the first thing the traveler does
after his arrival at Palermo is to make
the ascent of Monte Peregrine to visit the
Shrine of St. Rosalie. Were there no
shrine to see, the view alone would well
repay him. Here only can you distinguish
every object in the city, and gain a clear
outline of its walls and gates, and all its
lovely surroundings. "Ascend St. Paul's,
London, what do you see ? Roofs. As-
cend any height out of the city ? haze and
smoke. So with Paris : ascend Notre
Dame or Montmartre the view is fine,
but there is no outline ; a wilderness of
roofs, but nothing to treasure up in the
memory. So at Koine : the view from the
Pinchin Hill roofs, and the distance a des-
ert plain. At Naples and Genoa you ad-
mire their magnificent bays and the arena
of lovely hills which surround them ; but
landing dispels the illusion. Perhaps Ven-
ice or Milan comes nearer to Palermo, seen
from a height, than any other city. In the
former, although looking from the Cam-
panile, we see the Alpine summits with
their snowy peaks ; the islands of the sea,
clad in the deepest verdure ; her radiant
domes glistening in the sun ; her water-
streets reflecting beauty on every side :
still we are too much in the city to see it
properly. Milan, from the Duomo, is a
lovely sight ; but roofs predominate. But
in the scene from Monte Peregrino noth-
ing disappoints you. There is nothing one
could wish that would add to the enchant-
ment of the scene. Had Mohammed seen
it, instead of Damascus, from the heights,
well might he have said, " I can not enter.
There is but one Paradise for me, and that
is above."
The legend of the patron saint of Paler-
mo is firmly believed by the natives. St.
Rosalie was young (14 years), of illustrious
birth, and affianced to Roger, king of Sici-
ly, the same who had expelled the Arabs
from Sicily and Malt:i. Two days before
the celebration of the nuptials she fled
from home and kindred, from the world
and its ties, to the lonely spot on the top
of Monte Peregrino. Her youthful body
was found in a grotto, some centuries later,
under the following circumstances. Dur-
ing a frightful plague, which had been rag-
ing in Palermo for some weeks, one of the
citizens dreamed that a dove descended
from heaven and beckoned him to follow :
he did so, and was led to the top of Monte
Peregrino, where he beheld the body of the
lost Rosalie. The dream made such an
impression upon him that he visited the
grotto in the morning, and there discover-
ed her remains in the most perfect state.
He immediately reported the case to the
authorities, who, with all the dignitaries
of the Church, brought the body in state to
the Cathedral of Palermo, when immediate-
ly the plague departed. A church was
built on the spot which Rosalie had in-
habited, and an altar was raised beneath
the hole in the rock where her remains
had been found. An iron railing sur-
rounds the altar ; near it, on the left, is a
fine marble statue of St. Rosalie dying ; it
is by a Florentine sculptor. Behind the
altar is a brook flowing from the mountain.
j\f<mreale ;i miserable little town about
four miles distant, after passing through
Porta Nuova. It is absolutely necessary
to visit this town, however, to see its re-
markable church the finest in Sicily. It
was founded by William the Good in the
12th century. The legend connected with
it runs thus : William the Good, having
gone hunting on the mountain, and fallen
asleep beneath the oak-tree, had a dream,
in which the blessed Virgin appeared to
him, and commanded him to build a church
on the spot. Hence, says tradition, the
church and the name, Mount Roy id. It is
difficult to say what is its style of archi-
tecture Greek or Arabic, Byzantine or
Norman. The walls are covered with mag-
nificent mosaics, representing scriptural
histories. The chapels are of the richest
PALERMO.
[SICILY.]
GlBOENTb
marbles, and the sides covered with masses
of the most splendid mosaics. There is a
very fine cloister in the Benedictine mon-
astery of Monreale. The gates of the
church are of bronze, by Pisan Bonarmo,
and are beautiful relics of the 12th centu-
ry. The house and gardens of the Prin-
cipessn Butera-Radali, which were occupied
in 1M-15 and 1846 by the imperial family
of Kussia, are well worthy a visit, as is
also the 'Favorita," the residence of the i
exiled Bourbons while Murat sat on the
throne of Naples ; but every thing now
looks melancholy and deserted.
Palermo has a college of nobles, a high
female seminary, an episcopal seminary,
many inferior schools, and numerous char-
itable institutions, public baths, libraries,
and scientific associations. The silk man-
ufactures are the principal source of in-
come, but the inhabitants depend more j
on its being the seat of government and
residence of the viceroy. If you have no
courier, employ a valet-de-place for one or
two days ; price 50 c.
There is a very fine opera-house here,
and an excellent company ; also a circus
opened in 1871.
The principal promenade of the citizens
is La Flora, where concerts are given
during the summer. Adjoining is the
Botanical Garden. There is also an En-
glish Garden (Giardino Inglese), and the
coast promenade, called the Marina, be-
tween the coast and the Porta Felice.
Near the English garden, in which
stands a bust of Garibaldi, stands the roy-
al chateau of La Favorita, a beautiful
country residence erected by Ferdinand
IV. in the Chinese style. Permits to vis-
it it will be procured by your hotel pro-
prietor.
Carriages. One horse, the course within
the city, 50 c. ; to the harbor or railway,
1 fr. ; one piece of baggage 20 c., two pieces
30 c. For 1 hour, 1 fr. 80. Two horses,
the course within the city, 80 c. ; outside
the gates, 1 fr. 50 c. For the first hour, 2
fr. 20 c. ; for each additional hour, 2 fr.
Driving within the town on Good Friday
is prohibited.
ROUTE No. 230.
Palermo to Girgmti, via Termini. Time,
6 h. 30 m. ; fare, first class, 16 fr. 30 c.;
second class, 11 fr. 40 c.
Termini, a poor but populous town of
26,000 inhabitants. There is a bath es-
tablishment here, with chalybeate springs
which were mentioned by Pindar.
Lercara, population !>200, all of whom
are noted for their honesty and cleanliness.
Never did a bandit emerge from the town \
In the language of Artemus Ward, This is
sarcasm.
S. Giovanni di Cammarata is the sta-
tion of Cammarata, which lies to the right,
and contains 5000 inhabitants.
Cvmittini, a short distance from Girgen-
ti, is noted for its sulphur-mines, the prop-
erty of Ignazio Genuardi of Girgenti.
Girgenti, the Acragas of the Greeks,
and Agrigentum of the Romans, is badly
built and dirty, but the natural beauties
of the place are superb. Hotels, Centrale
and GtUia, It contains 16,000 inhabit-
ants. The ancient city was founded by a
colony from Gela in 582.
The ruins of the ancient temples are sit-
uated about a mile and a quarter from the
town, and are well deserving a visit even
from Naples.
The principal are the Temple of Juno
Lacinia, the Temple of Hercules, and Tem-
ple <->f Concord. This last is one of the
best -preserved Grecian temples in exist-
ence, as during the Middle Ages it was
converted into the church of S. Gregorio
delle Rape. The original thirty-four col-
umns are all still standing. The Temple
of Zeus was an immense structure, ita
length being 360 feet, and breadth 181.
Its columns were 55 feet high, and 33 in
circumference. A large portion of its ma-
terial was taken to construct the modern
mole of the town.
A visit should be made to the Tomb
Theron outside the gate.
A ^uide 5 fr. per day. An excursion
should be made to the mud volcano of
Maccaluba, distant six miles ; donkey, 3
francs.
899
TRAPANI.
[SICILY.]
LlC ATA.
ROUTE No. 231.
Palermo tj Trapani, Marsala, Castel-
vetrano, and the ruined Temples of Selinus.
Five days will be necessary for this excur-
sion.
[The most direct route to the temples
of Selinus is two days less, viz., three
days. First day diligence to Calatafimi,
9 fr. GO e. ; second day to Segeste and back,
and diligence to Castelvetrano, 6 fr. 45 c. ;
third day to Selinunto (Selinus) and back
to Castelvetrano; mule, 3 fr.]
Railway nearly finished to Marsala.
Trapani contains 27,000 inhabitants.
Hotel, Cinque Torn. In ancient times it
was a fortress, peopled by a colony from
Eryx. It contains no relics of antiquity
to-day, nor objects of modern times worthy
of notice. There is a fine excursion to the
town of Monte San Giuliatio, situated on an
isolated mountain 2500 feet high. Car-
riage, 30 fr. This town was the Eryx of
the ancients. At its highest point once
stood the celebrated Temple of Venus Ery-
cina. The sacrifices here offered were of
a very peculiar character. Some portion
of the temple still remains.
From Trapani to Marsala, distance twen-
ty miles.
Marsala. Hotel, L'one. The modern
commercial town was founded by the Sara-
cens on the ruins of the ancient Lilybseum.
It possessed during the time of the Ro-
mans the first port in Italy. It was de-
stroyed by Charles X. in 1532, for fear it
would fall into the hands of the Turks.
Garibaldi landed here the 10th of May.
1860, and obtained his first success over
the Neapolitan troops.
There is nothing of importance in the
town with the exception of the cathedral.
The town owes its notoriety principally to
the celebrated wine of Marsala, which is
much used in Spain in the preparation of
sherry wine.
From Marsala to Mazzara ten miles.
Mazzara. Hotel, Garibaldi. It is sur-
rounded by a wall, and contains 11,000 in-
habitants. There is nothing of impor-
900
tance to see. The cathedral contains some
restored frescoes.
From Mazzara to Castelvetrano twelve
miles.
Castelvetrano is a town of 19,000 inhab-
itants. Hotel, Pantera. Here visitors make
arrangements for guides and mules to visit
the ruins of Selinus. The distance is near-
ly eight miles. Mule there and back, 3 fr.,
with pourboire.
Selinunto, or Se'inus, contains the most
magnificent ruins of Europe. It was a
colony from Megara, founded 628 years be-
fore the Christian era. The colony became
very rich, and was frequently at war with
the Egestans, and in consequence with the
Carthaginians, by whom it was destroyed
409 B.C. It was again rebuilt with great-
er grandeur, and again destroyed by the
Saracens in 827 A.D. Different earth-
quakes have nearly demolished what was
left by them. Most of the relics left, such
as sculptures, etc., are in the Museum at
Palermo. Some of the columns lying on
the ground measure with their capitals
57 feet long, and a little over 32 feet cir-
cumference at the base. There were four
temples in all.
From Castelvetrano to Girgenti there is
no road, and if traveling in that direction
the journey must be accomplished on
horseback.
ROUTE No. 232.
From Girgenti to Syracuse, via Licata,
Terranova, Modica. and Palazzuolo. This
route along the coast requires five days.
The distance may be accomplished inland.
Most of the distance by railway via Castro-
giovanni (near the ancient Enna).
Girgenti, described in Route No. 230.
The distance to Palma, which contains
nothing of interest, is thirteen miles.
Licata (Hotel, Bella Sicilia) contains
15,000 inhabitants. Here formerly stood
an ancient Carthaginian fortification. The
TERRANOVA.
[SICILY.]
SYRACUSE.
town is situated at the base of a hill where
Phalaris once sacrificed human victims.
Near it was fought the great naval battle
between Kcgulus and the, Carthaginians,
in which :>00.0(iO men were engaged. The
principal commerce of the town is the ex-
portation of sulphur.
The road toTerranova is destitute of in-
terest, and if there is a breeze blowing, a
sail-boat had better be taken. The dis-
tance is seventeen miles.
Terranova, a seaport, founded by the
Emperor Frederick II., contains 14,000 in-
habitants, but nothing of interest to the
traveler. Near it formerly stood the an-
cient city of Gtla, founded 690 years be-
fore the Christian era, and so well known
in Greek and Roman history. A short dis-
tance from the town are the remains of a
Doric temple.
The distance from Terranova to Vittoria
is fifteen miles. (Mule 5 fr.)
Vittoria (hotel, Michele Santonoritii) con-
tains 16,500 inhabitants. Nothing of in-
terest. Carriage from Vittoria to Modica
20 fr.
The road passes through the town of
Comiitn, where at one period stood the cel-
ebrated l-'onntnin of Diann, goddess of
Chastity, the water of which would not
unite with wine when drawn by women of
easy virtue.
Ragusn is a dirty town, but romantical-
ly situated, and contains 23,000 inhabit-
ants. It is supposed to occupy the site of
the ancient Hybla Heraea. It possesses
some cotton factories.
Modica (hotel, Bella Italia) contains
28,000 inhabitants, but nothing worthy of
notice.
From Modica to Palazzuolo, one day.
For guide and mule, 15 fr.
PalfizzU'ilo. Hotel, Centra'e. Popula-
tion, 0000. This ancient town was founded
by the Syracusans, on the site of an older
town founded by the Phoenicians. It was
completely destroyed during the war with
the Saracens. The Acropolis stood on a
hill which rises above the modern town.
Here also stood the Greek theatre, the
ruins of which arc still visible. Numer-
ous aqueducts and tombs of Greek origin.
Diligence daily to Syracuse. Fare, 3 fr.
50 c.
Syracuse (Siragosa in Italian). Hotels,
del Sole and Vittoria. Its population in
VOL. II. Q 2
ancient times was 500,000 some affirm
1,000,000 ; it is now reduced to 21,000. It
was founded by the Corinthians in 735
B.C., and soon became the first of all the
Sicilian cities, and at one time governed
nearly the whole of Sicily. In 416 B.C.
the Athenians invaded the country, but
they were repulsed in even- direction. Un-
der the Democracy the Carthaginians be-
sieged the country, but it was saved by Dio-
nysius I., who soon usurped the sovereign
power and transmitted it to his son, Dionys-
ius II., who found it impossible to retain it.
A frightful anarchy followed his expulsion.
Dion, Timoleon, Agathocles, and Hieron in
their turn held the power, and Syracuse be-
came mistress of all the eastern portion of
the island, while Carthage held the west.
In A.D. 878 it was captured and almost
ruined by the Saracens, and the earth-
quakes of 1694 and 1758 finished its ruin.
Among the objects of antiquity which it
now possesses is the Cathedral, which was
converted from the Temple of Minerva.
The famous Fountain of A rrthitsa, the glo-
ry of ancient Syracuse, is now degraded
into a washing-tub. The " Ear of D'umys-
ms." This is supposed to be the pris-
on where the tyrant Dionysius incarcer-
ated suspected persons. It is formed in the
solid rock in the shape of the letter S, nar-
rowing gradually -toward the end. Along
the prison runs a groove, which collected
the sounds of the voices. By applying his
car to the end of the groove he could as-
certain whether his suspicions were cor-
rect. The Catacombs in Arcadina are of
vast extent. They consist of one princi-
pal avenue, with smaller ones branching
off, cut in the solid rock. The recesses on
each side contain cells for the reception of
the dead.
The Greek Theatre, one of the largest of
its kind, was hewn out of the solid rock.
It was nearly five hundred feet in diameter.
It is of semicircular form, and there are
forty-three rows of seats still visible.
In the Lafomue, or prisons, which are
cut in the solid rock, of great depth, open
at the top, but with steep overhanging
sides, the Syracusans confined the rem-
nant of the expedition sent by Athens to
subjugate them. They amounted to over
TIIIIO men. They were here shut up for
two months, with half supply of food, just
sufficient to keep them alive, exposed to
901
LIPARI ISLANDS.
[SICILY.]
CEFALD.
the vertical sun by day and the dews
by night, without any method to preserve
cleanliness, and coming in contact every
moment with the sick, dead, and dying.
At the end of two months, those few who
had escaped these horrors with their lives
were brought out and sold for slaves. This
enterprise was the largest ever fitted out
by any Greek state for the reduction of a
foreign power. The attention of all the
powers was fixed on this expedition, and
all Greece was sanguine of its success;
but jealous}- in the management of the
undertaking was the cause of its defeat.
Alcibiades, whose experience, ability, and
decision were universally acknowledged,
was removed, and the command given to
Nicias, who was deficient in the necessary
qualifications. The consequence was the
defeat of the Athenian fleet, and the glory
and empire of Athens.
The siege of Syracuse by the Romans,
212 years before Christ, is one of the most
celebrated in ancient history. Here the
great Archimedes rendered himself famous ;
for not only had the Romans to contend
against the natural strength and fortifica-
tions of the city, but against the wonder-
ful machines first invented by this great
mechanic. The city never could have been
taken but for the treachery of one of the
Syracusan commanders.
Archimedes, Theocritus, and Moschus
were all natives of Syracuse. Up to the
year 1693 Syracuse was a city of great
importance, but the dreadful earthquake
of that year laid her monuments and houses
in ruins.
Palermo to Metsma, by steamer direct, in
12 hours. Fare, exclusive of food, 25 fr.
This route is better than the land route.
About daybreak we pass to the south of
the celebrated islands of Lipari, or Vulca- <
niae of the Romans, who supposed them to
be inhabited by Vulcan, god of fire, from
their emitting smoke and flames. The j
principal islands are seven in number, viz.,
Lipari, Stromboli, Vulcano, Salina, Pana-
ria, Felicudi, and Alacudi. Their entire
population is about 23,000. They are all
of volcanic origin. Stromboli, which is
the most northerly, is the only volcano in
Europe which is constantly emitting smoke
and flames. On a dark night the reflec-
tion of its flames may be seen on the ocean
for many miles. Lipari and Vulcano have
902
also craters, which are occasionally in ac-
tion. Earthquakes are of frequent occur-
rence, but the climate is pure, and highly
salubrious. Lipari is the great mine from
whence Europe and America obtain all the
pumice-stone used ; its entire soil is com-
posed of that singular substance ; it is also
plenty at Vulcano ; it is worth $50 per ton
in the English market.
ROUTE No. 233.
Palermo to Messina, vi'i Termini, Patti,
and MUazzo. By rail (since fall, 1880).
Time, 19 h. 35 m. ; fare, 46 1. 85 c.
Termini (described in Route No. 230),
the Himera of the ancients, where Gelon
surprised the Carthaginian general Hamil-
car, and completely destroyed his army.
Cefalu, an industrious seaport town, con-
taining 12,000 inhabitants. There are two
inns, both passable. The town is com-
manded by a high rock, where formerly
stood an ancient structure, supposed to be
a temple. The town was besieged and
carried by the Arabs in 859.
At the foot of the promontory stands
the Cathedral, built in the Xorman style
of architecture in the form of the Latin
cross. It possesses some of the best mo-
saics in Sicily, executed during the 12th
century. This church formerly contained
the two sarcophagi in porphyry now in
the cathedral at Palermo. They were
transferred there by Frederick II. during
the absence of the bishop, who on his re-
turn excommunicated Frederick, but after-
ward became reconciled by a gift of land.
There is a small collection of antiquities to
be seen here.
Passing Custel di Susa and A laesa, found-
ed by Archonides in 403, which was former-
ly a place of considerable importance
(up the valley lies the modern town of
Mistretta, the ancient Amestratus, which
contains 11,000 inhabitants), we arrive at
PATH.
[SICILY.]
MESSINA.
S. Stefano di Camnstra, a small seaport
and commercial town of 4500 inhabitants,
doing considerable trade in cheese and
wool.
The principal forest in Sicily is now
crossed, and the small and dirty town of
.S'. A until reached.
Passing the ruins of the palace of /V-
mara Zapullu, near which (Capo Orlando)
was fought the great naval battle between
Frederick II. and the fleets of Catalonia
and Anjou.
Patti (hotel, Antonia Arrigd), containing
8000 inhabitants. It is an episcopal resi-
dence, and contains some large monasteries,
and a cathedral in which is interred Ade-
lasia, widow of King Baldwin of Jerusalem,
and mother of King Roger. On the left
rises a promontory, nearly 1000 feet high,
on which st<xxl the ancient Tynd iris, found-
ed by Dionysius in the 4th century. The
barons of Siacca possess nearly all the sur-
rounding territory.
Passing the town of Barcelona, near
which the famous battle occurred in which
the Syracusans defeated the Mamertines in
270,. we arrive at Mi'azzo, the ancient My-
lac. It contains 11,000 inhabitants, and
has a line harbor. The castle, which rises
behind the to'.vn and completely commands
it, was erected by Charles V., and has re-
sisted several sieges. Garibaldi in 1860
compelled the Neapolitan General Boco to
capitulate here, previous to his attack on
Messina.
Messina, the ancient Zancle, was found-
ed by a colony of Cumaeans in 732 B.C.
Sixty-five years later the Messenian fugi-
tives augmented the colony, and called it
Messana. Two centuries later Messina
was taken by the Mamertines, and be-
came the resort of brigands. In 396 it
was taken and destroyed by the Cartha-
ginian Himilco.
Messina sustained a long siege against
Charles of Anjou after the massacre of the
Sicilian Vespers. In 1674 it was besieged
by the Spaniards, but delivered by the
French under the Due de Vivonne and
Duquesne. It was ravaged by the plague
in 1743, and by the earthquake of 1783.
It was bombarded by the insurgents in
1848, and although the town was captured
by Garibaldi early in August, 1860, the
fort did not surrender until March 13,
1861. The population, including the sub-
urbs, Ls 111,854 (census of 1871). It is
beautifully situated at the most eastern
part of the island of Sicily, on the strait
of the same name, five miles from Reggio,
across the strait on the Italian side. Mes-
sina is the second city in Sicily. Though
smaller than Palermo, it is superior in
commercial importance. Its harbor is one
of the finest in Europe, and its environs
are the best-cultivated and most thicklv
inhabited part of Sicily. The principal
hotel is the Victories well kept.
One or two days may be well spent here.
Messina contains numerous curiosities,
and sonic relics which few cities can
boast. One of the relics consists of an au-
tograph letter written by the Virgin Mary
to the Messenians, in which she assures
them that she has taken them under her
special care and protection ! She also, to
make assurance doubly sure, and estab-
lish beyond all cavil the genuineness of
the letter, gave a lock of her own hair to
the person intrusted with the conveyance
of the letter! The Virgin has kept her
promise on several occasions. At one time,
when the city was suffering by famine, it
was saved by a timely arrival of a supply
of corn which she sent ! It would be con-
sidered unsafe in Messina to question the
genuineness of either of those relics. What
a pity she forgot them in 1783, when the
whole city was laid in ruins by an earth-
quake which happened in that year.
The city has a very fine appearance from
the streets. It is in form of a crescent.
From the palazzetta, or quay, in front,
which extends over two miles, and at
which lie all the shipping, the city and
background rise in the form of an amphi-
theatre. The houses, being built of white
stone, contrast finely with the dark, luxu-
riant, cone-like hills in the rear. The prin-
cipal street, running parallel with the quay,
is bordered with fine houses, and is well
paved with square blocks of lava, and is
ornamented with numerous churches, stat-
ues, and fountains.
The principal object of interest in Mes-
sina is the Cathedral, which was partly de-
stroyed by the earthquake of 1783. It is
situated in a very fine square, the fountain
in the centre of which is one of the finest
in Sicily. The cathedral was erected in
the early part of the 12th century, soon
after the conquest of Sicily by Roger the
903
MESSINA.
[SICILY.]
TAORMINA.
Norman. It is a Gothic building, with
heavy and gloomy exterior. The inte-
rior, however, is richly ornamented, and
corresponds in richness to the facade. The
pulpit is beautifully carved, and is consid-
ered the masterpiece of the Sicilian sculp-
tor Gaggini. The principal altar and roof
of the choir are adorned with mosaics and
precious stones. The nave is supported
by immense granite columns taken from
a temple of Neptune. Two small slabs in
the nave specify the privileges granted to
the city by Henry VI.
Close to the church notice the Fountain
of Montorsoli, with statues of the Nile, Ti-
ber, Ebro, and Camara.
The other churches worthy of a visit are
S. Maria dei Catalani, built on the site of
a temple of Neptune, Monte Virgine, An-
nunciation, and St. Giorgio. The last be-
longs to the convent of the Bernardines,
and requires some exercise to mount the
hill. Among the pictures in this church
is one by Stefano Giordano, and one by
Antonio Felocamo. The marbles and
inlaid-work are very rich.
The Viceroy's Pa'ace stands at the south-
ern end of the city. It is a fine building.
Adjoining are the public walks, beautiful-
ly decorated.
The University contains the Library,
Picture -Gallery, and Museum, none of
which are of very much importance : fee,
1 franc.
The Harbor is well defended by a cita-
del, provided with bomb-quarter and stores
on the Vauban principle. There are also
two well-built forts above the town, and
one commanding the mouths of the Fiu-
mare. The harbor is one of the finest in
the world ; first-class men-of-war can lie
in any part of the basin, and the largest-
sized traders can be accommodated with
perfect safety at any part of its immense
quay. To this port and harbor, and also
to her situation between Italy and Sicily,
Messina is wholly indebted for her pros-
perity and her great advantages as a com-
mercial entrepot. The principal exports
consist of oranges, lemons, wines, olive-oil,
olives, silk, rags, and corn.
Messina has two theatres and an opera-
house. The last is one of the finest in
Europe, and the company employed first
class.
Cabs in the town, 50 c. the course ; to
904
the station or steamboat landing, 1 fr. ;
with two horses, 2 fr. per hour.
Steamers to Naples live times each week.
KOUTE No. 234.
Messina to Syracuse, via Ad Reale and
Catania ; from whence the ascent to Mt.
Etna is made. Time, 6 h. 20 m. ; fare,
first class, 20 fr. 60 c. ; second class, 14 fr.
40 c.
This is quite an interesting route, as the
road passes through numerous well popu-
lated handsome villages.
Scaletta, the residence of the Princess
Scaletta, whose handsome castle is seen
near the station. Passing Ala, which con-
tains numerous sulphur baths, and Giardi-
ni, where Garibaldi crossed the bay to Ca-
labria in 1860,
Taormina is reached (hotel, Bella Vedu-
ta~), containing 3000 inhabitants and nu-
merous relics of antiquity, among others a
well-preserved Greek Theatre ; it is hewn
out of a solid rock, 360 feet in diameter.
It was partially restored in 1748.
Taormina also possesses several medie-
val structures, such as the palace S. Stffa-
no and the C(i*a Corvtijn. The views in
the vicinity are exceedingly beautiful.
Passing Giardini, the railway traverses
the lava stream of Mt. Etna, and the town
of
CATANIA.
[SICILY.]
CATANIA.
Giarre, whence a fine view of Mt. Etna,
and arrives at
Aci Jieale, a town of 35,787 inhabitants,
including its suburbs. Hotels, des Bains
and Trinnacria. It was completely de-
stroyed by an earthquake in Itj'j;!, and is
now erected on different strata of lava
streams. Huron Pasquale 1'ennisi has a
fine collection of Sicilian coins. The place
contains mineral baths, which are highly
recommended.
Nine miles farther lies the town of
Catania, the third city in the island of
Sicily, containing 84.500 inhabitants. Ho-
tels, Centrale and Catania. The plan of
the city is very line. Every thing, how-
ever, around you is made of the fell de-
stroyer, lava. The mole which protects
the harbor is lava, the houses are built of
lava, the streets are paved with lava ; their
furniture, toys, ever}' thing is lava; and
this saini> lava, by its own decomposition,
has covered the plains of Sicily in this di-
rection with the most fertile soil in the
world. Catania has a beautiful appearance
from the sea, and landing does not dispel
the illusion. The streets are regular, spa-
cious, and handsome, lined with elegant
houses, churches, convents, palaces, and
public establishments. Owing to the fre-
quent earthquakes, nearly all the ancient
monuments have been destroyed. There
still remain, however, remnants of an am-
phitheatre larger than the Coliseum at
Rome, a hippodrome, odeum, and theatre,
with numerous temples, aqueducts, baths,
and fountains. The principal manufact-
ure here is silk. The city exports largely
snow from Mt. Etna, wine, olive-oil, olives,
figs, soda, and manure.
The city was founded by the Chalcidians
in 730 B.C. In addition to the number of
times it has been destroyed by earthquakes,
it has suffered much from the eruptions of
Mt. Etna. In that of 16G9 18,000 souls
perished.
The Cathedral, founded by Roger I. in
1001, was nearly destroyed by the earth-
quake of 1169 ; some few portions of the
original edifice alone remain.
The Hixrtn-i Miise.um contains a fine col-
lection of antiquities and coins.
The former Benedictine Monastery r>f St.
Nicula, used as a barrack since 1866, was
one of the largest in Europe. In 1693 it
was destroyed by an earthquake. The
present edifice was erected in 1735, and con-
tains a church (the largest in Sicily) in
which is one of the finest organs in the
world. There is also a museum and libra-
ry. The view from the garden is superb.
There is a botanical garden attached to
the University, and a public garden where
the band plays every other evening during-
the summer.
Catania is an admirable place for inva-
lids, and is considered better than Palermo,
as the temperature is much higher, and the
east wind is trifling during the winter.
Steamers three times a week to Messina
and twice a week to Malta.
905
Mr. ETNA.
[MALTA.]
PEOPLE.
EXCURSION TO MT. ETNA.
This excursion requires two days, and
should only be made in the months of
July, August, and September, on moonlight
nights if possible. Provisions should be
taken from Catania. Carriages to Nicolosi,
three horses, 30 fr. ; here the carriage waits
all night to bring back the excursionists
next day. Guide, including fee, 10 fr. ;
mules, 5 fr. each (one for the guide).
From Nicolosi to Casa Inglese, 7 hours;
there rest. Be certain to bring rugs and
coats, as in the hottest weather it is here
very chilly.
From the Casa Inglese to the summit is
a walk of 1 h. 30 m. : be certain to start in
time to see the sun rise one of the most
glorious sights possible for a mortal to be-
hold. The circumference of the crater is
from two to three miles. Mt. Etna is
10,560 feet above the level of the sea, and
its circumference around the base is 112
miles. The Casa Inglese is 1100 feet from
the summit.
The eruptions of Mt. Etna have been
known from time immemorial. In fabled
history Etna is represented as the prison
of the giants Enceladus and Typholus ;
also the place where Vulcan and the
Cyclops forged the thunder of Jupiter.
The most terrible eruptions of modern
times were those of 1183, when 15,000 per-
sons lost their lives ; in 1669, 20,000 were
destroyed ; in 1673, 60,000 souls perished ;
with lesser numbers in 1809, 1830, and
1843. Vegetation at the base and on the
sides of Etna is magnificent, and trees
grow to an immense size on the lava.
From Catania to Syracuse, see Route No.
229.
Steamers leave Syracuse for Malta
weekly : leaving at 11 P.M., and arriving
at Malta the next day at 8 A.M., 9 hours.
Steamers also leave Messina for Malta
weekly, also weekly to Constantinople,
also weekly for Alexandria.
Messina to Athens. Steamers leave ev-
ery Sunday at midnight, and arrive at the
Piraeus on Wednesday morning ; fare,
140 fr.
906
MALTA.
Malta is an island in the Mediterranean
Sea belonging to Great Britain. It is sit-
uated about 50 miles to the south of Sicily,
and has a population (exclusive of Gozzo)
of 110,000. Gozzo, which lies to the north-
west, has a population of 17,000. This isl-
and, though small in size, is of vast im-
portance for the protection of British com-
merce in the Mediterranean, and as a coal-
ing depot for steamers to the East. It is
about 17 miles long by 9 broad, and is nat-
urally a barren rock. The greater part of
it, however, is finely cultivated, and plant-
ed with cotton, wheat, barley, and other
grains. The pastures of the island of Goz-
zo are very extensive, and cattle are raised
for the more numerous population of Mal-
ta. Both islands produce oranges, lemons,
grapes, and other fruits of excellent qual-
ity. Besides the food produced by the soil,
extensive fisheries are carried on for the
daily supply of the market.
The Maltese are in general of an ordi-
nary stature, strong, robust, and of a brown
complexion. They are of a mixed race,
and speak a dialect which bears much re-
semblance to the Arabic spoken on the op-
posite shores of Africa. They are full of
fire, and endowed with a penetrating imag-
ination. They possess very lively pas-
sions, and are tenacious in their opinions,
in their love, and in their hate ; are labori-
ous and frugal, living on very slender fare.
They are Roman Catholic in their religion,
and are generally ignorant and supersti-
tious. Most persons in trade speak the Ital-
ian language as well as English; the lat-
ter is now taught in the common schools.
About one tenth of the entire population
are English and other foreigners, the bal-
ance are natives.
The Maltese have in general adopted
the costume of the Franks, but the native
dress is still worn by the lower orders.
This consists, first, of a long bag, made of
wool, for a cap ; it is dyed various colors,
and hangs down behind ; the top part is
used for a purse, or forms a receptacle for
any small articles the wearer wishes to
PEOPLK.
[MALTA.]
HlSTORT.
carry about him. A short loose panta-
loon, which leaves the leg bare to the
knee, is confined round the waist witli a
girdle of cotton or silk. A cotton shirt,
with a short loose waistcoat covering the i
same ; in i::any cases the vest is ornament-
ed with rows of silver buttons, quarter dol-
lars, or English shillings. The costume j
of the ladies of Malta consists of a black
silk petticoat, bound round the waist, over j
a I .oily of some other kind of silk or print : ,
thLi is called a half onnella. The upper
part Ls called the onnella, and is made of
the sume material as the former, drawn up
into neat gathers for the length of a foot
about the centre of one of the outer seams ;
in the seam of one of the remaining divi-
ions is inclosed a thin piece of whalebone, :
which is drawn over the head, and forms ,
an elegant arch, leaving the face and neck
perfectly open. The left arm is covered
with one part of this habit, and the right
is used for keeping down the angle of the :
other. The whole is extremely neat, but i
requires a peculiar grace in walking to
show it off to advantage.
The dress of the peasantry is very simi-
lar to that worn by the ladies, differing
only in material, which consists of striped
native cotton of a substantial quality. It
is not customary for the poor females of
the country to wear shoes, though they all
like to have a pair. Eager, in his history
of Malta, says a country woman, making
preparations to visit the town, asked her
companion how long she had had her shoes;
the answer was, " Since the time of the
plague" (1813). "Oh," replied the other,
" mine are much older than yours, for I
have had them since the blockade of the
French."
It is now universally acknowledged that
Malta was first occupied by the Phoeni-
cians, who were driven out by the Greeks.
After the siege of Troy many of the Greeks
returned to their homes, the rest scattered
themselves over the islands of the Medi- !
terranean. Some of them settled in Sicily,
and built Syracuse and Agrigenti.
In the year 3620. the Carthaginians, who
had settled themselves along the northern
coast of Africa, seized upon Sicily and Mal-
ta. It was not without a great effusion of
blood that the Greeks were driven from
Malta, as they were continually receiving
re-enforceuients from Sicily, but under the
conduct of Hannibal, the famous Cartha-
ginian general, they were defeated. A
large square stone, with an inscription in
the Punic language, marks the burial-
place of Hannibal : it is near Ben Ghi<a.
The thriving condition of Malta excited
the cupidity of the Romans, who, after two
expeditions, took possession about the com-
mencement of the second Punic war. The
Romans did every thing they could to con-
ciliate the inhabitants, who were strongly
attached to the Carthaginians by a com-
mon origin and language. They respected
their laws, permitted them to coin their
own money, and m.tdc them eligible to any
office in the republic.
The Goths, who had overrun and made
themselves masters of Italy and Sicily,
and had pillaged and sacked Carthage,
arrived at Malta about the year 506 ; and
after occupying it for 37 years, were ex-
pelled by the army of Justinian, under the
command of Belisarius. The island now
remained under the dominion of the Em-
perors of Constantinople until the year
879, when the Saracens, who had already
overrun all the East and conquered Spain,
Portugal, Italy, and part of France, made
a descent on the island of Gozzo, and mas-
sacred all the Greeks. From Gozzo the}'
crossed to Malta, which nobly resisted for
a length of time, but was at last obliged to
succumb to superior force. The Saracens,
upon taking possession of Malta, exterm-
inated all the Greeks, and made slaves of
their wives and children. They treated
the Maltese, however, with every mark of
respect, and allowed them the free exercise
of their own religion. The advantages of
the situation of Malta soon made itself ap-
parent to the Saracens. Its numerous har-
bors gave them shelter in their piratical
excursions, and they erected a fort on the
present site of St. Angelo to secure their
vessels from danger of attack. They also
added new walls to those already erected
around the Citta Notabile. After they
had remained in quiet possession of the
island for 220 years, Count Roger, son of
the celebrated Tancrede de Hauteville,
in company with his brother William, ex-
pelled th'-m from Malta, as also from Sic-
ily and Naples.
The inhabitants of the islands, regarding
Roger as their deliverer, proposed to name
him sovereign, which he accepted ; he was
907
HlSTORT.
[MALTA.]
HISTORY.
accordingly crowned King of Sicily and
Malta, notwithstanding the opposition of
the Emperor of Constantinople and the
Pope of Rome. Roger treated the Maltese
with great kindness ; he founded and en-
riched many churches ; he allowed the
Saracens to stamp their gold coin with
" There is only one God, and Mohammed
is the prophet of God," on one side, and on
the other, "King Roger."
After the death of Roger II., Constance,
his only daughter, who had espoused Hen-
ry VI., emperor of Germany, of the house
of Swabia, ceded the islands of Malta and
Sicily to her husband and the future em-
perors of Germany. Malta remained un-
der the government of the German em-
perors for 72 years, during which time the
natives signalized themselves greatly by
their valor at sea. One of their admirals
attacked and destroyed a squadron of the
republic of Pisa, which had come to lay
siege to Syracuse, and took the island of
Candia from the Venetians, after having
shattered their fleet and taken prisoner
their admiral, Andrea Dandolo.
Manfred, the natural son of Frederick
II., formed the horrible design of poison-
ing his father, and making himself master
of his dominions. The cruel oppressions
and tyrannical proceedings of this usurper
excited a rebellion of the Maltese and Si-
cilians against his government, and finally
caused Pope Urban IV. to absolve all his
subjects from their allegiance to him. To
save the consequences of such powerful
opposition, he offered his daughter Con-
stance in marriage to Peter, son of James.
king of Aragon. This alliance, however,
had no other effect upon Urban than of
completing his enmity toward Manfred ;
and without any right, except that pre-
sumptuously assumed by his predecessors, j
he invested Charles of Anjou, king of j
France, with the possession of Sicily and j
Naples, and their dependent states. This I
proceeding was unjustly confirmed by his
successor, Clement IV.. who reserved to
himself the duchies of Benevento and
Ponto Corvo, in the kingdom of Naples,
and a yearly tribute of 40,000 crowns,
which Charles obligated himself to pay to
the Papal See on St. Peter's Day. A bat-
tle, which took place between the forces of
Charles and Manfred, on the plains of Ben-
evento, on the 26th of February, 1266, de-
908
cided the fate of the kingdom in favor of
the former. Manfred met the just punish-
ment of his parricide and his other crimes
by being slain on the field, and his wife
and children were taken prisoners by the
conqueror.
The daughter of Manfred, whose hus-
band was now King of Aragon, with the
title of Peter III., used all her influence
to inspire him to assert his claims to the
kingdom of Sicily and Malta. The tyr-
anny of Charles had already rendered him "
obnoxious to the people over whom he
governed, and it was not long before a
desperate attempt was formed by a private
Sicilian gentleman, who was secretly at-
tached to Peter, to massacre all the French
in the kingdom at a given signal. This
famous conspiracy, known by the name of
the "Sicilian Vespers," was carried into
effect on Easter Day of the year 1282, dur-
ing which the King of Aragon was pro-
claimed sovereign of Sicily, and publicly
crowned in the Cathedral at Palermo.
Charles was in Tuscany when the news
of this tragical event reached him ; he im-
mediately set about making endeavors to
gain his lost authority ; but his fleet, com-
manded by his son, was discomfited by Ad-
miral Roger, who commanded the vessels
of the Aragonese.
The island of Malta, having suffered so
much from the dissensions of its successive
masters, was now destined to undergo even
worse treatment from the individuals to
whom it was successively given as a fief
by the kings of Aragon and Castile. Not-
withstanding the solemn promises made by
King Louis, son of Peter II., at the just
and earnest representations of the Maltese,
that the island should, in future, be con-
sidered as unalienable from the crown of
Sicily, it was twice afterward mortgaged
by King Martin first to Don Antonio Cor-
dova, and subsequently to Don Gonsalvo
Monroi for the sum of 30,000 florins. The
Maltese, wearied with making useless com-
plaints, resolved to pay to Martin the sum
for which the island was pledged. This
offer was accepted ; and in the year 1350,
bv a public act of the king, it was decreed
that the islands of Malta and Gozzo should
henceforth never be separated from the
kingdom of Sicily, and that their inhabit-
ants should enjoy equal privileges with
those of Palermo, Messina, and Catania.
HISTORY.
[MALTA.]
HISTORY.
In 1516 this entire kingdom passed into
the hands of Charles V. of Germany, the
heir of all the Spanish dominions. Not-
withstanding his confirmation of the pre-
vious declaration of his predecessors con-
cerning the perpetual junction of Malt-i
with Sicily, this emperor, for political rea-
sons, re-oUed to cede the island to the Or-
der of St. John of Jerusalem, the remains
of which were at that time at Viterbo. in
the Papal States. The act of the donation
is dated at Castel Franco, near Boulogne,
March 23. 1530 ; and the document of the
acceptance of the gift, by the council of
the Order, April 25 of the same year. The
fiibst tnce of the act was as follows :
That the Emperor Charles V.. king of
Sicily, gave to the Order of St. John of
Jerusalem, in his name and in that of his
successors, the islands of Malta, Gozzo,
and Comino, with Tripoli in Africa, as a
free and noble lief, with all the privileges
of the sovereignty, under these conditions :
1. That every year the Order should pre-
sent a falcon to the King or Viceroy of
Sicily. 2. That the bishopric of Malta
should always be nominated by the king.
3. That the chief admiral of the fleet should
always be an Italian. 4. That they should
preserve to the Maltese all their rights and
privileges. The Grand Master, having ac-
cepted these conditions, -embarked to take
ion of the island, where he arrived
on the 26th of October, 1530, accompanied
by a great many knights and principal of-
ficers of the Order.
During the reign of John de la Valettc,
founder of the city called by his name,
Malta was destined to undergo its severest
attack from the hands of the Turks. It
was besieged by a powerful armament for
four months, but without success, De Va-
lette having succeeded in repelling all
their attacks, and compelling them, in the
end, to retreat with vast loss. The Order
maintained possession of the island for the
space of 26* years. About the year 1730
it suffered serious losses by the extinction
of many of its commanders in Germany.
Spain, Sicily. Portugal, and Aragon ; and
in 171)2 an edict of France was issued, de-
claring the Order extinct \\ithin the French
territories, and it~ ]><-es<i<>ns were an-
nexed to the national domains. To show
the dilapidated state of the revenue, it need
only be mentioned that the receipt*, which
! in 1788 were three millions of livres, were
in 1797 reduced to one million.
The French government, which had for
some time manifested a spirit of hostility
to the Order, now came forward to display
it openly. The first division of the French
fleet arrived before the port of Malta on
the 6th of June, 1798. On the 9th, Gen-
eral Bonaparte, with the remainder of the
squadron, stood off the island, and, through
his consul, Carson, demanded free admis-
sion for the whole fleet. This demand be-
: ing refused, the same day the French be-
gan to disembark at the Bay of St. Madda-
leiia, and carried the small fort of St.
George without the loss of a single life.
I The next day the French army had se-
cured all the important posts in the coun-
try, and had advanced beneath the walls
of the city, when the greatest uproar pre-
vailed among the people on account of the
treachery that had been discovered among
several knights of the Order. Six days
after the landing a council was called, and
it was resolved to yield up the city into
the hands of the besiegers. No sooner
did the French find themselves the uncon.
trolled masters of the island than they en-
joined all the knights to quit within three
days. About $50 were advanced to each
for the expenses of his journey; but he
was not permitted to depart until he had
torn the cross from his breast and mount-
ed the tri-colored cockade. By the articles
of capitulation, the French engaged to pay
the Grand Master an annual pension of
300,000 livrc, and to each French knight
resident in Malta a yearly allowance of
700 livres.
The French fleet, under the command
of General Bonaparte, sailed from Malta
in June, carrying with them all the rari-
ties found in the public treasury, together
with all the standards and trophies belong-
ing to the Order, none of which ever reach-
ed their destination. They were contained
in two ships, the Orient and Semsiblf the
former was blown up in the battle of
Aboukir, and the latter fell into the hands
of the British. The French soldiery com-
mitted so many depredations throughout
the island, suspending the pensions to
charitable institutions, and despoiling the
churches, that the population became fu-
rious, and, when an attempt waa made
; to sell the decorations of the cathedral
909
VALETTA,
[MALTA.]
VALETTA.
church of Citt^ Notabile, sixty soldiers,
with their commander, were massacred by
the people. From this time all commu-
nications between the city and country
ceased, and Valette was reduced to a state
of blockade.
About this time it was blockaded by the
English and Portuguese fleets. The Por-
tuguese admiral was left alone to maintain
the blockade during the temporary absence
of the English squadron ; on the return
of which a fresh summons was sent for
the place to surrender. Early in Decem-
ber the same was repeated, which was
firmly and laconically answered in the
negative. The blockade had now lasted
six months, and the city exhibited a scene
of frightful privation. The besiegers
would not permit any person to leave the |
town, knowing that their doing so would
relieve the garrison. Disease added its
ravages to the general suffering, and sol-
diers and citizens became alike its victims. ,
Month after month passed heavily over,
and in August, 1800, the citizens being to-
tally beggared, the army was put on half
pay. Four months afterward it was en-
tirely stopped, and their rations greatly
lessened. Still they bore all with aston-
ishing fortitude, being supported with the
hope of speedy deliverance. At length
the news of the interception of the sup-
plies, and their capture by the English,
disheartened many, though it did not de-
cide them to capitulate. The condition of
the town was dreadful beyond description.
Fresh pork brought two dollars a pound ; '
rats sold at an exorbitant price ; dogs and j
cats were generally eaten, and horses,
asses, and mules were similarly converted
into food. On the 8th of Septe'mber, 1800,
a parley was held with the besiegers, when !
the terms of capitulation were arranged I
and ratified. The following morning the
French sailed away, after having endured !
an obstinate blockade for two years.
In the year 1814, agreeable to the reso-
lution of the Congress of Vienna, the isl-
ands of Malta, Comino, and Gozzo. were
confirmed to the English crown, and they
have ever since been considered by all the
powers of Europe as a British dependency.
Valetta. The streets of Valetta, the
principal city of Malta, are regular and
well paved, but, from the declivity on I
which some part of the city is built, many |
910
of them are steep, with side-walks com-
jx'sed of stairs. They are kept remark-
ably clean, being swept every morning.
The houses, which are built of stone, and
i are generally of three stories, have all Ikt-
! roofed terraces, which serves the double
purpose of being an agreeable resort for a
walk, and a receptacle for the rain which
i falls during the winter, from whence it
runs into the cistern with which every
dwelling is provided.
The principal hotels. Impend, Cambridge,
and d' Angleterre. Population, 70,000.
Valetta is built upon a tongue of land
extending into a bay, forming two splendid
harbors ; one called the Great Harbor, the
other the Quarantine Harbor. The former
is used for government vessels alone, the
latter for foreign vessels, and those in
quarantine. The city is closed by three
gates : Pvrta Reale, which leads to the coun-
try; Porta Marsamuscetto, which leads to
the Quarantine Harbor, and through which
all strangers enter the city ; and the Mari-
na Gate, from the Great Harbor.
The fortifications which surround the
town are very high, and many of them
formed out of the solid rock. The walls
measure about 15 feet wide, and are com-
posed chiefly of the common limestone of
the country ; their whole circumference is
two miles and a half. The ditch which
crosses the peninsula from the Quarantine
to the Great Harbor, cutting oft' all com-
munication with the city, is about 1000
feet long, 120 deep, and 120 wide ; this is
crossed by five bridges. Beyond the coun-
terscarp are many outworks and a glacis
built in the same massive style, and well
supplied with cannon, rendering the city
one of the best fortified in the world.
During the existence of the Order, the
knights of each language had a particular
post assigned to them in case of attack.
The knights of Provence had a rampart of
St. John; those of France, St. James; those
of Auvergne, St. Michael : those of Itily,
St. Peter; those of Aragon, St. Andrew ;
those of England, St. Lazarus ; those of
Germany, St. Sebastian ; and those of
Castile, Santa Barbara. There was also a
palace or inn for each of these languages,
where all the members ate and assembled
together for the purpose of consultation
and the transaction of business such as
preferred residing in their respective inns
VALETTA.
[MALTA.]
VALETTA.
to having private houses of their own wore
permitted to do so. The Superior of every
laflgoaga was dignified witli a distinctive
title, to which were annexed certain func-
tions ; for instance :
Auberge de Provence. The Superior of
the aul>erge was denominated the Grand
Commander, who, by virtue of his office,
was perpetual president of the common
treasury, comptroller of the accounts, su-
psrintendent of stores, governor of the
arsenal, and master of the ordinance ; he
Lad the nomination (subject to the appro-
bation of the Grand Master and council)
of all officers from the different languages,
and to this he added the power of appoint-
in.; persons to the various places of trust
in the church of St. John, and in the In-
firmary. This aubcrge is situated in the
Strada Reale; it is a line building, with a
plain but imposing facade. Besides the
chapel which this language owned in the
church of St. John, it possessed another
separate church, as did also several of the
other languages.
Auberye d'Aitverynf. The head of this
inn was called the Grand Marshal ; and
he had the military command over all the
Order, excepting the Grand Crosses or their
lieutenants, the chaplains, and other per-
sons of the Grand Master's household. He
intrusted the standard of the Order to that
knight whom he judged most worthy such
distinction. He had the right of appoint-
ing the principal equerry, and, when at
sea, not only commanded the general of
the galleys, but the Grand Admiral him-
self. This auberge occupies a site opposite
the side-square of St. John's church in the
Strada Reale.
The Auberge of Italy. The Superior of
this language was styled the Admiral. In
the Grand Marshal's absence he had the j
command of the soldiery equally with the
seamen. He also appointed the comptrol-
ler and secretary of the arsenal ; and when
he demanded to be named to the general-
ship of the galleys, the Grand Master was
obliged to propose him to the council,
which was at liberty to appoint or reject
him at pleasure. This auberge is situated
in Strada Mercanti, opposite to the Au-
berge de Castile. Over the entrance is a
bronze bust of the Grand Master Canafa,
with his coat of arms, and many trophies
and ornaments of white marble, said to
have been cut from a large pillar which
once stood in the Temple of Proserpine, in
the Citta Notabile. The small church of
Sta. Catariua, which adjoins it, also be-
longed to this language.
A uberge Castile. The chief of this inn
was dignified with the title of Grand Chan-
cellor. It belonged to his office always to
present the vice chancellor to the council,
and his presence was likewise necessary
whenever any "bulls" were stamped with
the great seal. Those who assumed this
dignity were obliged to know how to read
and write. This is the largest auberge in
the city, and occupies a very delightful
situation close under the walls of the ditch,
commanding an extensive view of the
country beyond. It is surmounted with
a great display of ornamental sculpture,
consisting chiefly of warlike trophies, arms,
musical instruments, etc. In the centre
is a marble bust of Grand Master Pinto.
It is at present occupied by the officers
of the English garrison. To the knights
of this language appertained the church
of St. James, in Strada Mercanti. a neat
specimen of architecture, ornamented in a
very chaste and simple style.
Auberge de France. The Superior of
this inn, during the existence of the Or-
der, was called the Grand Hospitaller. He
had the direction of the hospital, and ap-
pointed the overseer and prior to the in-
linnary, and also ten writers to the coun-
cil. The officers who filled these employ-
ments were changed every two years.
The Auberge de France is situated in
Strada Mezzodi.
Auberye of Aragon. The title of the
Superior of this inn was the Draper, or
Grand Conservator. He was charged with
every thing relating to the conservator}' -
to trip clothing and the purchase of all nec-
essary articles, not only for the troops, but
also for the hospitals. This building oc-
cupies a small square fronting on Strada
Vescova, and is now the residence of th
Lord Bishop of Gibraltar.
.1 liberty of r.i/ifhnid ajid A ni/lo-Bavaria.
The head of this establishment was dig-
nilied with the title of the Tancopolier.
He had the command over the cavalry
and the guards stationed along the coast.
While, the ' language'' of Kngland exist-
ed, their inn was the building which fronts
the square before the small church of Sta
VALETTA.
[MALTA.]
VALETTA.
Catarina of the Italians on the one side, !
and Strada Keale on the other. After the ;
Reformation, when all the English com-
manderies were confiscated by order of
Henry VIII., this language ceded up its
rights, and was succeeded by the Anglo-
Bavarian, whose inn stands on the plat-
form of St. Lazarus, facing the entrance
into the Quarantine Harbor. This build-
ing is now occupied by officers of the Brit-
ish garrison.
PALACE OF THE GRAND MASTER.
This vast building, the residence of the
Grand Masters of the Order, is surrounded
by the four principal streets. It is 300
feet on each side, and has a spacious square
in front, called Piazza St. Giorgio. It lias
two principal entrances, two court-yards,
with fountains ; one of them is now used
as a racket-court for the amusement of the
officers of the garrison.
The interior of the palace consists of a
lower and upper story, each containing a
range of apartments running round the
building. The halls and apartments in
the upper story are very elegant, many of
them embellished with views commemora-
tive of the battles of the Order. Some of
the paintings are of superior workman-
ship. Among the several masters whose
genius adorns these walls are Caravaggio
d'Arpino and Cavalier Fauray. In the
waiting-room are some fine productions by
Maltese artists. The principal pieces are
St. George and the Dragon, St. Michael,
St. Peter, Mary Magdalene, and JEneas.
Most of tlie ancient paintings were placed
here by the Grand Master Zandadari, and
are chiefly scriptural illustrations.
The most interesting sight in the build-
ing is the A rmory. It occupies a large sa-
loon extending the whole length of the
building, and contains the armor and a
great many warlike weapons belonging to
the Knights of Malta, with numerous tro-
phies of their splendid victories. It also
contains 20,000 muskets, 1000 pistols, 30,000
boarding -pikes, belonging to the garri-
son. There ars 90 complete coats of ar-
mor for mounted knights, and 450 cuirass-
es, casques, and gauntlets for infantry.
The last - mentioned armor is arranged
along the upper part of the room, in regu-
lar order, with their respective shields, on
which is portrayed the white cross of the
912
Order on a red field. The armor of the
mounted cavaliers and men-at-arms is of
different kinds ; some burnished, and oth-
ers painted black and varnished. The
complete suits of armor are placed upright
on stands, and posted up along the rows of
muskets at certain distances from each
other, looking like so many sentinels, and
giving a very sombre appearance to the
whole room. A trial was once made of
the force of resistance of one of these suits,
and several musket-balls were discharged
against it at 60 yards' distance, which only
produced a very shallow concavity. This
piece of armor may be seen with the rest.
At one end of the room is a complete
suit of black armor, standing about seven
feet high and three and a half wide. It
is not very probable that this has been
often used. The helmet alone weighs 37
pounds. Close by the above is an open
case, in which may be seen many curious
specimens of musketry, pistols, swords,
daggers, etc., chiefly trophies taken by the
knights in their engagements with the
Turks. The sword of the famous Alge-
rine general Dragut is preserved among
the spoils. Before this case is a cannon
made of tarred rope bound round a thin
lining of copper, and covered on the out-
side with a coat of plaster painted black.
This curious specimen of ancient warfare
was taken from the Turks during one of
their attacks upon the city of Rhodes. It
is about five feet long and three inches
bore. At the other extremity of the room
is the complete armor of the Grand Master
Alofio Wignacourt, beautifully enchased
with gold ; above which is a drawing of
the same, armed cap-a-pie, a copy from the
masterpiece of the famous Caravaggio
which is in the dining-room.
On the most elevated part of the palace
is the Torretta, a small quadrangular tow-
er, from whence vessels of war are signal-
ized. In the lower part of this building
were formerly preserved the treasures of
the Order, among which was the sword,
shield, and golden belt of Philip II., king
of Spain, sent by him as a present to the
Grand Master La Valette. There are sev-
eral other apartments in the palace well
worth examination.
The Church of St. John. This edifice
holds the first rank among the sights of
Malta, and should 3 r ou have but time to
VALETTA.
[MALTA.J
VALETTA.
visit one place in Malta, let this be the
one. It was built nearly three centuries
ago, at the time La Cassiera was Grand
Master, and was subsequently enriched by
donations of the Grand Master who suc-
1 him, and also by several sovereigns
of Europe. The facade of the church is
heavy and monotonous, but the interior is
magnificent. The choir is ornamented
with an admirable piece of sculpture in
white marble on a raised base, represent-
ing the baptism of Christ by St. John, in
two figures as large as life. This piece
was from a design by the famous Maltese
artist Caffa, and completed after his death
by Bornini.
The grand altar, which stands at the
uppermost part of the nave, is very sump-
tuous, and deserves notice on account of
the various colored marble and other val-
uable stones of which it is constructed.
Before it, on either side, on a raised pave-
ment, stands a chair covered with a rich
canopy of crimson velvet ; that to the left
is occupied by the bishop, and the one on
the right is destined for the sovereign of
the island, over which is placed the es-
cutcheon of Great Britain. Close by the
latter is a seat prepared for the governor
of the island. The pavement is composed
of sepulchral slabs, worked in mosaic with
various colored marble ; many of them
contain jasper, agate, and other precious
stones, the cost of which must have been
very great. These cover chiefly the graves
of the knights and other servants of the
Order, and bear each an appropriate epi-
taph, or rather a panegyric on the virtues
of the deceased. Many have had their
escutcheons set in beautiful mosaic, look-
ing as bright as if laid down but yesterday.
The chapels of the different languages
of the Order which run parallel with the
nave form the two aisles, and are very
splendidly decorated ; the roofs are con-
structed in the shape of a dome in the in-
terior, and are very profusely carved with
different ornaments in alto-relievo.
The first arch on the right hand as you
enter the church leads to the chapel of the
Crucifixion, in which are several very line
paintings, especially the one behind the
altar, the He-heading of St. John, by Mi-
chael Angelo ( 'aravaggio. From this chap-
el a flight of stairs leads to a subterraneous
apartment, ill which stands a rustic chapel.
! The second arch covers the chapel of the
Portuguese knights ; the walls are orna-
mented with paintings. It contains two
splendid mausoleums of grand masters
that of Emanuel Pinto and Manoel de Vil-
licna: the latter is of bron/e, very costly,
sustained by two lions of the same mate-
rial. The fourth arch leads into the chapel
of the Spanish knights. Over the altar is
a painting of St. George ; those on the side
j walls represent the trial and martyrdom
of St. Lawrence. In this chapel are four
magnificent mausoleums of grand mas-
ters : Martin de Redin, Raphael de Cotoner,
Perillos E. Roccaful, and Nicolas Cotoner :
the two last are very grand. The fifth
1 arch leads to the chapel of the knights of
1'rovence. This contains a plain black
mausoleum of the Grand Master Gorsan.
The paintings above the altar represent
St. Sebastian. The sixth and uppermost
arch leads to the chapel of the Virgin. On
the side-walls are three silver plates, with
a bundle of keys suspended from each.
These were trophies taken from the Turks.
To the left hand, on entering the church,
I is a splendid copper mausoleum of the
| Grand Master Zondadari. The whole is
supported by a marble base, and flanked
with two fine pillars of the same material.
The metal statue of the knight, as large
as life, in a reclining posture, and the va-
rious ornaments which surround it, are
very grand. It is considered a splendid
production of art.
The first arch down the aisle, on the
left, leads to the vestry, in which are sev-
eral paintings and portraits of grand mas-
ters. The second chapel is that of the
knights of Austria. The altar-piece rep-
resents the Adoration of the Wise Men,
and on the side-walls the Murder of the
Innocents and the Birth of Christ. The
fourth chapei is that of the Italian knights.
It contains the mausoleum of the Grand
Master Carafa. The altar-piece is the
Espousals of St. Catharine. There are two
drawings by Caravaggio, Jerome and Mary
Magdalene. The next chapel is that of
the knights of France. In this chapel
| there are two monuments of grand mas-
i ters. That of Prince Ludovico Philip
j d'Orleans, who was interred here, is very
i fine. Over the altar is a fine picture, the
Conversion of St. Paul ; on the side-walls,
I the Holy Family and St. John in the Des-
913
CITTA VECCHIA.
[MALTA.]
GROTTO OF ST. PAUL.
ert. The sixth and last chapel is that of
the knights of Bavaria. It was also used
by the English knights of the Order. Over
the altar is a drawing of St. Michael and
the Dragon.
From this chapel a staircase leads to the
crypt, in which are the tombs of several
grand masters. Among these is that of
L'Isle Adam, the first commander of the
Order in Malta, the famous La Valette,
Vignacourt, La Cassiera, Cardinal Verda-
la, and Pietro de Monte.
Among the many public institutions of
Malta is one well worthy of imitation in
our own country. Even Austria is far
ahead of us in this respect. That is, the
Monte di Pieta, or Public Pawnbrokery.
It was established in 1597 for the purpose
of affording pecuniary relief to the dis-
tressed at reasonable interest, thereby pre-
venting them from having recourse to usu-
rious contracts. Any sum of money, how-
ever email, is advanced to applicants on
the security of property given in pawn,
such as gold, silver, and other precious ar-
ticles, or wearing apparel, whether worn
or new. The period of the loan is for three
years on pawns of the first description, and
never more than two on those of the latter,
renewable at the option of the parties, who
are also at liberty to redeem their pawns
at any time within the period on payment
of interest in proportion. The rate of in-
terest is 6 per cent, per annum. The un-
claimed pawns at the expiration of the pe-
riod are sold at public auction, and the pro-
ceeds, after deducting the sum due the in-
stitution, are payable to the person pro-
ducing the ticket.
People in good circumstances often avail
themselves of this accommodation.
Citta Vecchia, or the old city, is situated
on the centre of the island, and is called
Medina by the natives. It is well worth
a visit. Its situation is so high that, on a
clear day, the whole island, and the coasts
of Sicil} T and Africa, may be seen at the
distance of sixty miles. This city is sur-
rounded by walls, and defended with bas-
tions and other modern fortifications. In
early times it bore the same name with the
island, Melita.
On the election of grand master, the
ceremony of inauguration was performed
in this city. Early in the morning the
sovereign left Valetta, accompanied by his
914
court, and escorted by a body-guard, with
bands of music. On his arrival near the
city he was saluted by the musketry and
by the principal giurato, who presented
him with a bunch of artificial flowers, with
an appropriate speech, and afterward kiss-
ed his hand. The procession then pro-
ceeded until it joined the bishop and the
clerg} r , who came out to meet them. The
Grand Master was afterward placed un-
der a canopy borne on four poles by the
giurati, and continued walking until he
arrived at the gates of the city, where a
place was prepared for him to kneel upon,
before which a cross was erected. After
the gates were shut the first giurato stepped
forward, having in his hand a silver dish,
with two keys laid upon it of the same
metal, and, making a very low bow, ad-
dressed the sovereign in the following
words: "Most Serene Lord, the Divine
Majest) 7 has been pleased to favor us and
this city by placing over us so great a
prince as lord and master; and the high
honor is conferred upon me of presenting
to your serene majesty the keys of this
city, in order that you may take possession
thereof. Therefore my colleagues and my-
self, in all humility, beg your most serene
highness to deign to swear upon the habit
of the Grand Cross that you will observe all
the privileges, and franchises, and usages
of this city and of the island of Malta,
which were conceded to them by the most
serene sovereigns of Aragon and Sicily,
and by the magnanimous grand masters
of this sacred Order, the predecessors of
your most serene highness, and command
the same to be observed." The Grand
Master then laid his hand upon the cross
on his breast, and said, " I am bound to do
so ; I swear." After the keys were de-
livered into his hand the procession pro-
ceeded to the Cathedral, where a solemn
Te Deum was sung, and after the celebra-
tion of mass the pageant terminated.
The ceremony of consecrating the bish-
ops of Malta is also performed in the Ca-
thedral of this city.
Near to the city is the celebrated Grotto
of St. Paul, situated underneath a church
dedicated to the same saint. According
to tradition, St. Paul, accompanied by the
Apostle Luke and Trophimus, resided in
this cave for the space of three months
the time of his stay upon the island. The
THE CATACOMBS.
[MALTA.]
STRADA TKATKO.
veneration for this cave very much in-
creased about the beginning of the 17th
century, when a citizen of Cordova, named
Fra Giovanni, left his native country anil
came to Malta to tenant it. This ancho-
rite had a chapel erected over the grotto,
which he dedicated to St. Publius, which
was afterward much enlarged by the Grand
Master Lascaris, and enriched with dona-
tions of a vast number of relics by the
reigning pontiffs of Rome. Among these
is a ]>iece of the true cross, a little of the
Virgin Mary's milk, some remains of not
less than six of the apostles, and of about
fifty other saints. The grotto is about
thirty-six feet in diameter, and about eight
feet high. A fine marble statue of St.
Paul occupies the middle of the cave, be-
fore which several lights are kept continu-
ally burning.
The Catacombs of St. Paul are very cel-
ebrated ; they are situated about five min-
utes' walk from the church, the sacristan
of which will supply tapers and light you
through.
Among the numerous places of interest
on the island are the Tombs of Bingemma ;
St. Paul's Bay : there is a small chapel built
on the spot where the barbarians lighted
a fire to warm the shipwrecked crew ; Ca-
lypso's Grotto, sung by Homer and dilated
upon by Fenelon in his Telemachus. The
Church of Mellitha is built over the Grotto
of the Madonna. The church contains a
vast number of presents to the Virgin. In
the grotto there is a spring of water sur-
mounted by a large statue of the Virgin.
The natives assert that this ima^e has been
several times taken up and offered a more
respectable place in the church, but that
during the night she has again chosen to
return down forty stairs to her old position.
( The cave is filled with headless statues of
gods and goddesses, and, according to the
testimony of the sacristan, owe their de-
capitation to the French during their short
occupation of the island.
There is a very good theatre in the Stra-
d(i Ti'iitro ; it was erected by the Grand-
Master Wilhena in 1731. The government
grants its use free of charge, and it is sup-
plied nearly all the year round with Italian
operas. Occasionally the naval and mili-
tary officers perform for the amusement of
the public.
The traveler will find the commission-
aires of Malta a hard set to get rid of.
The author had one follow him round for
over an hour, although during that time
he told him fifty times to go about some
! other business, and only got rid of the
rascal by dodging him in a crowd at
the post-office. Mr. Prime very truly re-
| marks, " And plunging down the steep, nar-
row streets to the landing-place, overturn-
ing half a dozen commissionaires, each of
whom swore that he was the man that said
good-morninLCthe day previous, and became
therefore entitled to his five francs (for no
! one need imagine that he will land at Malta
without pa} - ing at least three commission-
aires and five porters, if he carry no bag-
gage on shore, or twice as many if he have
one portmanteau) . . ." The only remedy
we can advise is to take one the moment
you land, to protect you from the rest.
from Malta to A lexandria, distance 900
miles ; average time, 3 days 20 hours.
From Malta to Z/nni, 3 times monthly
in '22 hours; fare, 2 8s. ; to Tripoli twice
a month in 22 hours ; to England weekly.
As the days of sailing to different places
are often changed, it is well to inquire at
the offices.
915
EGYPT.
GEOGRAPHY.
[EGYPT.]
GEOGRAPHY
"Our of Egypt have I called my son."
Through Abraham's eyes we first see the
ancient Pharaohs, the earliest seat of art,
science, and literature. What inducements
to the Christian, the scholar, and the anti-
quary to visit Egypt, famous alike for the
historical events of which it has been the
theatre, its magnificent monuments, and
balmy atmosphere.
This most interesting of lands occupies
the northeastern corner of the African
continent. The waters of the Mediter-
ranean form the northern limit of its soil.
Upon the south it is bounded by Nubia, i
upon the east and west by the Red Sea !
and the Libyan desert. The lowest of the
Nile cataracts marks the frontier between j
Egypt and Nubia, where the modern town
of Assouan stands beside the river's bank,
and the foaming waters hurry past the
temple-covered islands of Elephantine and
Philae. From the shores of the Mediter-
ranean to the first cataract, the valley of
the Nile measures, in a direct line from
north to south, an extent of 550 miles. But
the breadth of Egypt bears only a very
limited proportion to its length, in so far,
that is, as the habitable portion of the coun-
try is concerned. Its breadth on the coast
is 160 miles, but it gradually tapers off to
a point at Cairo, a distance of 104 miles
from the mouths of the Nile, and the rest
of the habitable country is chiefly com-
prised in the narrow valley of the Nile
up to Benisooef, a distance of 83 miles. At
this point it spreads to the west to form the
valley of Faloum, which borders on Lake
Moeris. This vale is nearly circular in its
shape, 40 miles in diameter, and of great
fertility and beauty.
It is estimated that the whole cultivable
territory of Egypt, including its lateral
valleys, is about 16,000 square miles. That
portion situated between Lake Mareotis on
the northwest and Lake Mcnzaleh on the
northeast, watered by the Damietta and
Rosetta mouths of the Nile, is called the
Delta or Lower Egypt. That portion which
includes the valley of the Nile from the
apex of the Delta up to Manfaloot is called
Middle Egypt. That portion which com-
prehends the remainder of the valley up to
916
the first cataract is called the Said, or
Upper Ei'ypt. These are farther divided
into 13 provinces, viz., seven for Lower
Egypt, three for Middle Egypt, and three
for Upper Egypt. The entire population
is estimated at 8,400,000. Of this number
8,000,000 are Egyptian Arabs, 200,000 Copts
or Christian Egyptians, 15,000 Turks, Bed-
ouin Arabs 70,000; the balance Syrians,
Greeks, Armenians, Jews, Mamelukes,
Franks, white slaves, and negro slaves.
The great majority of the Egyptian
Arabs are engaged as fellahs, or husband-
men, and their social condition is of a very
low grade ; they are generally poor, apa-
thetic, and sunk alike in ignorance and in-
dolence. Those who reside in the towns,
and are engaged as artisans and shopkeep-
ers, exhibit a higher degree of intelligence ;
but credulity and fondness of frivolous
amusements are their chief characteristics :
when not engaged in their professional or
religious duties they are general!}' found
in the coffee-houses, listening to story-tell-
ers, or in places of public resort, where
mountebanks, jugglers, serpent-charmers,
and dancing-girls are performing.
The Copts dwell chiefly in towns, and
are generally employed in offices of trust.
The Armenians and Jews are here, as ir.
other parts of the East, among the most
useful and industrious portions of the pop-
ulation, the latter acting chiefh' as mon-
ey-changers, jewelers, brokers, etc. ; but
neither of these classes are numerous, and
the Jews are almost confined exclusively
to Cairo and Alexandria.
The great feature of Egypt is the Nile,
without which the whole country would
be a desert ; but throughout a couise of
800 miles it has not a single tributary.
You naturally expect, when you liavo
tracked him that distance, to find the vast
volume of waters shrink ; but n:>, his
breadth and strength below was all his
own, and throughout that long descent he
has not a single drop of water but what he
brought himself. Greater than the Rhine,
Rhone, or Danube, you perceive that vast
body of water as steadily flowing between
its uniform banks among the wild Nubian
hills as in the plain of Lower Egypt.
THE NILE.
[EGYPT.]
THE NILE.
The fertility of Egypt is entirely due to
the annual rise of the Nile, which even'
year overflows its banks and spreads over
the adjacent lands, so as to lay the whole
country under water. Throughout Middle
Egypt the river is accompanied to the
westward by an artificial channel, called
the Bahr Yousef, or Canal of Joseph ; this
is connected with the Nile l>y numerous
small streams, which serve to distribute
the water over the valley. In Lower
Egypt, in addition to the Kosetta and Da-
mietta branches of the Nile, there are sev-
eral subordinate streams and channels,
some of them of artificial construction, in-
tended to serve the purpose of irrigation,
and to retain the waters of the Nile when
the inundation has retired.
The river annually beirins to rise alxmt
the end of June, and continues rising until
the first of October, at which time the trav-
eler may have the opportunity of witness-
ing the singular appearance of the coun-
try. It then remains stationary a few
days, and afterward gradually retires to
its proper bed. At this period of the year
the Nile-waters are charged with a thick
sediment, a portion of which is left as a de-
posit upon the soil, to which it imparts the
most fertilizing properties.
The rise of the Nile is due to the period-
ical rains of Abyssinia and the countries
farther south, whence the river derives its
waters, and upon the greater or lesser
quantity of which the height of the inun-
dation depends.
The height which the stream reaches
above its ordinary channel is carefully no-
ted ; as the extent of land subjected to ir-
rigation, and the length of time during
which it will remain under water, arc de-
pendent on this, and the occurrence of a
good or bad harvest may henceforth be
predicted with certainty.
We know by the testimony of antiquity
that the inundations of the Nile have been
the same, with respect to season and dura-
tion, for over 3000 years. They are so
regular that the value and annual certain-
ty of this gift regulates the public reve-
nue ; for when, by means of Nilometers,
it is ascertained that the waters promise
an unusually prosperous season, the taxes
are proportionally increased.
At Cairo, just above the point of the
delta, the ordinary rise is about 23 feet.
VOL. II". R
A less rise than this is insufficient for the
purposes of the husbandman ; and a great-
er rise sometimes occasions serious mis-
chief to the villages, which are every where
built on the summits of mounds, so as to
be out of the reach of inundation. Tht
limit of the inundation is so marked that,
in many parts of Egypt, it is possible to
walk with one foot on a fertile and teem-
ing soil, and with the other on a barren
waste. Every spot reached by the water
is a lovely light green color green, "un-
utterably green," save where the mud vil-
lages which here and there lie in the midst
of the verdure like the marks of a soiled
foot upon a rich carpet. These villages
are mostly distinguished by the minaret
of a well-built mosque or the oven -like
dome of a sheik's tomb, screened by a
grove of palms. The number of birds
one sees here is unequaled in any other
country : vultures and cormorants, geese
and pelicans, hoopoes and zizacs, and the
white ibis, the gentle symbol of the god
Osiris.
The waters of the Nile are pure and
sweet, and are used by the Egyptians for
all ordinary purposes; but during the in-
undation (and also for some weeks previ-
ously), the river is so charged with sedi-
ment that the water requires to be filtered
in order to fit it for drinking, and jars of
porous earthenware are used for the pur-
pose of cooling and purifying it. The
changes in its color are in the highest de-
gree curious during the inundation. The
waters are of a greenish hue ; they after-
ward change to a deep brownish red, close-
ly resembling the appearance of blood,
and again become clear after subsiding
into their ordinary channel.
According to Josephus, Menes was the
first king of Egypt. He ascended the
throne _ ) :;-2n years before Christ, or -lls-J
years ago. The origin, however, of the
Egyptian nation, nnd the history of their
kings, are involved in the greatest obscu-
rity and uncertainty. About 200 years
later Saophis built the great Pyramid, and
40 years after Sen-saophis built the sec-
ond Pyramid. 19:20 years 1$. C. Alraham
arrived in Egypt. During the dynasty
from Lower Egypt in the year 1700 B.C.,
917
HlSTORT.
[EGYPT.]
HISTORY.
Joseph arrived, and died 1635, during the
same dynasty.
In the year 1575, Amosis, from Thebes,
founder of the Diospolitan dynasty, took
possession of the throne. This was the
king ' ' who knew not Joseph." Four years
later Moses was born, and in his fortieth
year he fled from Egypt. This dynasty
reigned 750 years, at which time the F.thi-
opian dynasty was founded, and lasted
114 years, during which time the captivity
of the " ten tribes" took place.
In 664 B.C. the dynasty of Saltes was
established, which remained in existence
139 years. The Egyptians had at this age
attained to great wealth and civilization,
and had established a regular and well-or-
ganized system of government, while the
greater number of the surrounding nations
were involved in the grossest barbarism.
At length, in the year 525 B.C., Camby-
ses, emperor of Persia, added Egypt to his
other provinces. It continued attached to
Persia for 193 years, though often in open
rebellion against its conquerors.
Alexander the Great had little difficulty
in effecting its conquest, which was done
in the reign of Darius, 336 B.C. It lias
been inferred from the foundation of Alex-
andria, which soon became the centre of
an extensive commerce, that he intended
to establish in it the seat of the govern-
ment of his vast empire. On the death of
Alexander, Ptolemy, the son of Lagus, be-
came master of the country. Under this :
able prince and his immediate successors
Egypt recovered the greater portion of its
ancient prosperity, and was for three cen-
turies the favored seat of commerce, art,
and science.
The feebleness and indolence of the last
sovereigns of the Macedonian dynasty, end-
ing with Cleopatra, facilitated the conquest
of Egypt by the Romans. Augustus pos-
sessed himself of it after a struggle of
some duration, and for the next 666 years
it belonged to the Roman and Greek em-
pires, constituted their most valuable prov-
ince, and was for a lengthened period, as
it were, the granary of Rome.
In 640 A.D. Egypt submitted to the vic-
torious Amrou, general of the Caliph Omar.
Amrou, in his letter to the caliph an-
nouncing the event, says, " I have taken
the great city of the West. It is impossi-
ble for me to enumerate the variety of its
918
richness and beauty, and I shall content
myself with observing that it contains 4000
palaces, 400 baths, 400 theatres or places
of amusement, 12,000 shops for the sale of
vegetables, and 40,000 tributary Jews."
Under Omar and his successors it con-
tinued until 1171, when the Turkomans ex-
pelled the Caliphs. The dynasty of the Ab-
bassides, descended from Abbas, uncle of
Mohammed, ruled Egypt nearly the whole
of this time. In the year 754 Bagdad was
founded and made the seat of the empire,
and thirty years later the famous Haroun
al liaschid, the hero of the Arabian Nights,
ally of Charlemagne, and dread of the Ro-
mans, governed Egypt.
The Turkomans were again expelled by
the Mamelukes in 1250. The latter raised
to the throne one of their own chiefs, with
the title of sultan, and this dynasty reign-
ed over Egypt till 1517, when the Mame-
lukes were totally defeated, and the last of
their sultans put to death, by the Turkish
sultan Sclim. The conqueror did not,
however, entirely suppress the Mameluke
government, but merely reconstructed it
on a new basis, placing at its head a pacha
appointed by himself, who presided over a
council of 24 Mamelukes, beys or chiefs.
This state of things continued till 1798,
when a. French army, commanded by Na-
poleon Bonaparte, landed in Egypt. The
Mameluke force having been annihilated
or dispersed in a series of engagements
with the French, the latter succeeded in
subjugating the country. Bonaparte hav-
ing returned to France, the French in
E _ r ypt were attacked in 1801 by a British
army, by which they were defeated, and
obliged to enter into a convention for the
evacuation of the country.
The British having not long after also
evacuated Egypt, it relapsed into its for-
mer state of anarch}* and confusion, from
which it was at last rescued by the ability
and good fortune of Mehemet Ali. This
extraordinary man, a native of an obscure
village of Albania, having entered the mil-
itary service, partly by his lira very and
p.irtly by his talent for intrigue, raised
himself to the dignity of pacha in 1*0 1.
The viceroyalty is hereditary in Mehemet
Ali's family. The present Khedive is
Tewfik Pasha, son of Ismail Pasha.
The public affairs of Egj'pt are conduct-
ed bv the Khedive and his Council of Min-
ALEXANDRIA.
[EGYPT.]
ALEXANDRIA.
isters, advised by a British Resident, since
tlio campaign of 1882, under General Sir
Garnet Wolseley, and the collapse of tlie
Ultra-national (>arty. Tlie leaders of this
movement Arabi, Mahmoud Femi, Mah-
inoud Sami, Toulba, Alxlellal, and others
wore all captured, tried, condemned to
death, reprieved by the Khedive, and sent,
after public degradation, into perpetual
exile in Ceylon.
keys at you, that the only possible way of
escape is to mount one of them. For this
ride you should not pay over one piastre,
but they would not be satisfied with ten;
a native would not pay half.
As you approach the level shores of
Kixypt, gradually a column rises up out of
the sea, and stands upon the horizon, faint-
ly marked against the liquid sky. Soon
after, swarms of windmills emerge from
ttie same water}- bed; gradually, on the ex-
Money. The currency of Egypt is pias- treme left, rise the pacha's palace and lofty
tresand paras. 40 paras = 1 piastre = about harem; gleaming sand-banks fill up the in-
5 ivnts U. S. currency. An American dol- terval. The buildings that come one by
laris worth 19 piastres, and tive-franc pieces one into view are Alexandria, and the tall
19 piastres 10 paras. The best money to column that first attracts the stranger's
draw or take to Egypt is sovereigns. The view is known as Pompey's Pillar,
smallest copper coin is five-para pieces, This city was founded by Alexander the
worth about five eighths of a cent. Great 332 years before Christ. It is ad-
As it is impossible to get money in Up- mirably situated between the west mouth
per Egypt, the traveler must make all his of the Xile and Lake Mareotis, and is con-
arrangements before leaving Cairo, and be nected with the Rosetta mouth of the Nile
particular to provide himself with plenty of by the Mahmoudieh Canal, reopened in
piastres, twenty, ten, and live-para pieces.
ALEXANDRIA.
1819 by Mehemet Ali. Its length is 48
miles.
The modern city is partly built on the
celebrated island of Pharos and the isth-
mus that connects it with the main land.
The ancient citv was built on the main
The sea-port and commercial capital of ; land opposite the present site.
Egypt contains nearly 300. 000 inhabitants. ! Alexandria has two ports that on the
The principal hotel is the Hotel de V Eu- j west, which is the best, is called the old
rope, well conducted by the same propri- j harbor, that on the east the new.
etor as the Xt w Hotel. ' The prices are 50 \ Since the opening of the canal, Alexan-
piastres per day, which includes breakfast,
dinner, tea, and bedroom ; a sitting-room
is charged extra ; also 25 cents for service
per day, and the same for a candle. The
price of a boat for landing should not be
over five piastres (25 cents), and from five
to ten will enable you to pass your baggage
without examination at the custom-house.
The better plan is to make a bargain with
the commissionaire to take you and your
baggage on shore, see it through the cus-
tom-house, and land you at the hotel; if he
dria has increased wonderfully in size, and
regained much of that commercial import-
ance for which it was in ancient times so
celebrated. It is much indebted for this
change to the establishment of a steam
communication with India by way of
Egypt, as well as by the lines of steamers
connecting it with Marseilles, Trieste, and
the whole of the Levant. There are Hues
now running from Alexandria to Corfu di-
rect, also via Smyrna ; to Southampton
via Malta ; to Marseilles via Malta ; to
will do it for twenty-live piastres, pay it. Constantinople via Jaffa and Beyrout; t
If you do not make a bargain, and escape j Constantinople direct (two lines) ; to Mar-
alive from the rapacity of the boatmen,
who are never satisfied, no matter how well
puid, you will experience a lively time in
getting rid of the most importunate of hu-
man beings, the Alexandria donkey-drivers.
A crowd of New York hackmeu is a heaven
of repose in comparison. They will hem
you in on, every side, backing their don-
seilles via Messina and the Italian coast ;
to Trieste rin Syria and t'ia Malta. It is
quite clear that E.irypt, and, consequently,
Alexandria, must, from its position, become
every day of more and more importance to
the nations of the world.
The population of Alexandria is very
"mixed," consisting, besides the native
919
ALEXANDRIA.
[EGYPT.]
ALEXANDRIA.
Turks and Arabs, of Armenians, Greeks,
Syrians, Maltese, Jews, and Europeans of
almost every nation, in such numbers that
it may be questioned whether the strangers
you notice in the streets would not be more
than a match for the natives. The shops,
displaying even- article of furniture, and
of male and female attire, from the Pari-
sian bonnet of the latest fashion to the
very humblest article of dress, all conspire,
in conjunction with the style of the build-
ings, to take away from this place the ap-
pearance of an Oriental city.
A recent English writer says that "the
most that can be said for Alexandria is
that it is an inferior Continental town : its
streets peopled with Englishmen, Italians,
and Greeks, whose wives dress in bonnets
and Paris mantles, and go out shopping in
the afternoon in one-horse clarences and
pony phaetons. Mosques there arc, it is
true, but, being in the back streets, they are
unseen except by the curious in such mat-
ters. There arc also bazars, but they are
far from picturesque, and decidedly dirty.
As for turbans, I could not but observe a
tendency in people to wind cloths round
their heads, but it was a hard race be-
tween them and the wearer of hats. I was
pleased to see a great many camels, and
to observe that there were no trees but
palms, and no plants but orange-trees and
bananas. But, on the whole, I thought
Alexandria Eastern only in name, position
on the map, and from the fact of its pos-
sessing Cleopatra's Needle and Pompey's
Pillar."
There are few objects to detain the trav-
eler more than one or two days in Alex-
andria ; he will find, however, great amuse-
ment in the novelty and drollery of the
scene around him. Mr. Prime, in his
" Boat Life," gives a most faithful and
graphic description of it. He says, ' The
Egyptian donkey is the smallest imagin-
able animal of the species; the average
height is from three feet and a half to four
feet. These little fellows carry incredible
loads, and apparently with ease. In the
square were scores of them. Here an old
Turk, fat and shaky, his feet reaching to
within six inches of the ground, went trot-
ting across the square ; there half a dozen
half naked boys, each perched between
two goat-skins of water. Four or five En-
glish sailors, full of wonderment at the
920
novel mode of travel, were plunging along
at a fast gallop, and got foul of the old
Turk. The boys, one of whom always fol-
lows his donkey, however swift the pace,
belaboring him with a stick, and ingen-
iously poking him in the ribs or under the
saddle strap, commenced beating each oth-
er. Two ladies and two gentlemen. India
passengers, taking their first donkey-ride,
became entangled in the group. Twenty
long-legged single-shirted/ ( //a/<e<: rushed
up, pome with donkeys and some with long
rods. A row of camels stalked slowly ! v,
and looked with quiet eyes at the increas-
ing din ; and when the confusion seemed
to be inextricable, a splendid carriage
dashed up the square, and fifty yards in
advance of it ran, at all the speed of a
swift horse, an elegantly-dressed runner,
waving his silver rod. and shouting to
make way for the high and mighty some-
body ; and forthwith, in a twinkling, the
mass scattered in every direction, and the
square was free again. The old Turk
ambled along his way, and the sailors sur-
rounded one of their number who had man-
aged to lose his seat in the hubbub, and
whose curses were decidedly home-like."
The grand Square of the Consuhis the cen-
tre of European Alexandria. Here princi-
pally took place, on June 11, 1882, the mas-
sacre of the Europeans, which indirectly
led to the bombardment of Alexandria by
the British fleet under Sir F. Beauchamp
Seymour, one month later. Previous to
their flight, the soldiers set fire to the
square ; and the principal hotels, banks,
steam-ship offices, consulates, as well as the
Protestant church, were burned. At each
extremity of the square is a fountain, which
at sunrise and sunset are surrounded by
Arabs performing their ablutions, modesty
not being one of their characteristics.
Pompey's Pillar. The name given to
this column is without historical founda-
tion ; the Greek inscription found upon it
I proves it to have been erected by Publius,
prefect of Egypt, in honor of Diocletian,
who besieged Alexandria A.D. 296, which,
after eight months' defense, was obliged to
capitulate, when thousands were massacred
by fire and sword. The height of the pil-
lar, including the shaft, capital, and pe-
destal, is one hundred feet. The diameter
at the base is ten feet. It * of red pol-
ished granite, elegant and in rfood style,
C A
o ?'
* ** ; /f
' -N 7 / ^.1': < s \^
*/ - V^,f
4:^ :
l'W.39
B3
Hf
R O
TIIK OH RAT PYRAMID
Form of the Creat Pyramid
It Hsw.tti,t tc fJ\r fyrasnt*{ C J?pfuu>rUa2- prvlonga.
b PesctwJiny {Battery turn of the gallery b
, d l*mtrvtireovttetJ*a>eti &Indofsbe<, _^
\iOi)ciuna mad* to pent
tra/re isito t/atiory & .
\\Kntrancetalhrraelt
O /54tf wt'U r Cfuxmter oftfie Sa
in , "A-unf'fr ofiht f/uMn,. p TSf p.-wapaljfaffify >Z emptff jpaftf above
Plan of the INTaraids of Ghizeh
3
*,'*
ent
to rceewe th*.
'i?uj[ th& pyramid .
Tomb
6
Entt-
I) 7?trw snuilt piiT-wUds 1 Faxdted tomb .
Temples be/brv. th? purarntfte. 8,B,H Sepulchral wells.
K /i/"J//(^/ *>fth* daiufhteroftlttops. 9,9 Platform-ati in the rock
H .)>' : 1O.1O H'ult '
al.'ih !(;f,,fttar , M*
."<; tntJIor-Uia/WU L1,1A
12
juine nwanKnirnt
SuAterramtui passage. entrance to
/ - K Palms, si/
(VUTKnVO- a/M/ spring -
an old. pyramid.
J.I TfeOsfor
&r-ir>*.tiny mortar 13, 13
Tombs
i^ : . i
Ground Plan
J <^, ( [ ,3W .- >Trti
19 ttab Choa.'yeb
35 Pmlais&son harem
x ^ x *-' '- A'nfiswat tiuetAtieh
2O ft.ibci IShiulr
36 RdrierleKiamO. fartui
j3f 3 Sittitttrut i'l . Woiiskl
21 Sob el-fbutouJi
37 Palais d'Jbnakim Podia,.
1 4 ft If ii*tt(ii\it f/ ^:'m^r-_Saaas^
71 22 Ai..ll>7-
38 Jfatvm d Ibralum Pacfui
."> Xtt/itafat fiab fl-Shai>g.
23 Zabel-etiarayb.
39 -^Kw/- fl-J'yrty (Hopitall.
^IjtifS 6 J'r.v.-.
2^ titlb dwb tfl-rrutrouJuf .
(K) A'aJpetrifre .
** : y 7 Karitunit ,4k
25 JiabclrOunyr
\\ P.tlaut ii,< tttml.A
8 JSMhwt^gp^aMaiMMBvf
* 26 /Y,/<if fa>nfiietjl#Ji .
Vt Obwroatoire
AantMtf *l'0mtB*-S&*h.
27 .\\iui>i-Ue chcutssee d1a-0i- i3 famitHf.
1O XtftiOFOt .-.-
ta^-Ue.
V* Gain '<i Souitiui Ha-tsan.
LI Hat* \fheit (*/ Rdcha.-.
28 Place Qammeydfui .
+ i WIA-, ;,:.>,.(.////, iJalaaun fOta^
!_' fabcheifkh Rih<ui.
29 &i6 c&flwa/h/i
1** ftitb st /..
30 A*<5 (yvSi*y</V^ .
VC> fclwn l( t '< -.Hu?u,i{ ,t fiilb -2an-
IV fabd-M/it
31 vfo^ Jbtiteuil'.
MHi
i:> /f<^v^\/.
:f2 KatJlyout Keu
'*' i.'am ,i .-< M.t!
Hi .- XX a.
;{:? /fab.ft-uJt'fi .
!>8 (n'a si MtwvA
17 A
;?i .Masquer <* hi/out ,te.KJir-
'*0 tr'am 'a A'ulttin tfiiiavun
**+.
'
ALEXANDRIA.
[EGYPT.]
CAIRO.
but the capital and pedestal arc inferior
and unfinished.
Cleopatra s Needlts. These two obe-
lisks, which were seen at the east part of
the city, near the shore, the one standing,
the other lying down and nearly covered
with earth, are of red granite, and formerly
stood before the Temple of Neptune, at
Heliopolis ; one of them is 65 feet high,
the other 70. Their diameter at the base
is between seven and eight feet. They
were quarried in the reign of Thothmes
III., 1495 B.C., and are consequently now
3376 years old. Mehemet Ali gave the
fallen one to England, the standing one to
the United States ; the former, after being
lost in the Bay of Biscay, now stands on
the Victoria embankment, the latter in
Central Park, after an attempted seizure
in Cairo by government creditors.
The Catacombs. At a distance of about
three miles from the hotels may be seen
these remarkable tombs. They can lie
reached by either land or sea ; if by land,
which is preferable, you pass some ancient
tombs partially sunk in the sea; having
been mistaken for baths, the natives gave
them the name of Baffin di Cleopatra. It
will be necessary to take a guide with you,
unless you have a dragoman by the day.
The Pasha's Palace, built by Mehemet
Ali, is well worth a visit. A permit is nec-
ess iry, but may be obtained without dif-
ficulty. The building is finely situated,
facing the sea, and is surrounded by beau-
tiful gardens. The grand staircase of Car-
rara marble, and the audience chamber,
which is of circular form, are well worth
seeing. At this palace, commonly called
Ras-el-Tin, the Khedive, Tewfik" Pasha,
-tayed during the bombardment of Alex-
andria in July, 1882, declining the hospi-
tality of the British admiral. No harm
came to him, though the palace, through
proximity to the fort, suffered from the
bombardment, and Egyptian soldiers were
sent to murder him. The harem build-
ings opposite are not open to visitors.
Before leaving Alexandria it would bo
well to examine and see if you have every
thing requisite for your trip up the Nile
that you can not get reasonably or at all at
Cairo. As the shores are lined with every
variety of game, of course a fowling-piece
is absolutely indispensable. A good pistol
is also necessary. Ammunition is yery
expensive in Egypt; bring a good supply
from London. Paris, or Malta. It can bo
purchased at the latter place as cheaply as
in London. A telescope and opera-glass
buy both in Paris; the telescope is not abso-
lutely necessary. Wines of all descriptions
can now be found at Alexandria, although
something might be saved if coming direct
from Marseilles; and Marsala, which is con-
sidered by some a good wine on the Nile,
can be purchased at a low price at Malta,
Nearly every thing requisite for the travel-
er may now be obtained in Cairo, although
at a slight advance. The Latakia tobacco,
which is the beat that grows, had better be
purchased in Alexandria, if you smoke.
Do not make any engagement with a
dragoman until you arrive at Cairo ; you
will find them better there. The regular
price of a dragoman per day in Alexandria
is live francs or sixteen piastres. Achmet
Talem, who may be found at the Hotel do
1'Europe, or on board the steamer after its
arrival, is very intelligent and trustworthy.
The author employed him during his stay
in Alexandria, and liked him much.
As one has plenty of time for reading
on the Nile, lay in a good stock of such
literature as you best enjoy, either at Lon-
don or Paris, although a fair stock may be
found both at Alexandria and Cairo. For
works on Egypt, buy Wilkinson's "An-
cient Egyptians," "Modern Egyptians,"
and "Survey of Thebes;" Pococke and
Hamilton's "Egypt."
From Alexandria to Cairo, distance 131
miles. Fare, first class, 100 piastres =
$5. 00 ; time, express train, 4 hours 38 min-
utes ; other trains, 6 and 7 hours.
At Benha 3 r ou change cars for Ismailid,
Suez, and Zazazig.
Alexandria to Trieste, Athens, Constunti.
nople, Port Said, etc., by Austrian Lloyd
steamers, see advertisement.
CAIRO.
Cairo, the capital of Egypt, lias a popu-
lation of 887,462. Though called Musr !>y
the natives, it is properly El-Kahireh, The
Victorious," having been founded by the
Arab conquerors of Egypt; the con^iu^l
took place in the year 970-A.D. It is situ-
ated near the right or east bank of the Nile,
alio".t -jO miles above the apex of its delta.
921
CAIRO.
[EGYPT.]
CAIRO.
It is second only to Constantinople in size
in the Moham niedan world, and was the prin-
cipal residence of the Khedive and the seat
of his government, as well as of the British
authorities. On Sept. 14, 1882, thirty hours
after the battle of Tel-el-Kebir, where Arabi
Pasha and his associates were defeated, the
victorious British cavalry under General
Drury Lowe, conspicuous for dash and hard
blows at Kassassin and elsewhere, gallop-
ed into Cairo 100 strong, captured Arabi and
Toulba Pasha, received the ke^-s, and the
submission of 12,000 soldiers in the citadel.
General Sir Garnet Wolseley arrived on the
next day with the bulk of his forces. There
is at present a strong army of occupation.
Take a survey of the scene : dragomans
black, yellow, and white splendidly
dressed in flowing trowsers, silk and satin
vests, embroidered jackets,andimmense tur-
bans, quarreling with the donkey-owners,
who are quarreling and finding fault with
the donkey-drivers, who are doing the same
with the donkeys. The traveler threat-
ens to belabor the dragoman, the drago-
man does belabor the owner, the owner
belabors the boy, and the boy the donkey.
and none of them seem to care much for it.
Add to this half-a-dozen mountebanks ; a
dozen dealers in relics, turbans, and hand-
kerchiefs ; fifty dogs, one ofwhom is playing
circus with a monkey on his back ; a snake-
charmer, with a bagful of immense snakes,
all standing erect (if a snake can stand),
with fangs protruding, ready to make a
pi unge at their conqueror , who o fFers to swal-
low any one of them for a shilling, and you
have a faint idea of what is daily going on.
Hotels : Da Nil, New, Shepheard's, Ori-
ental.
We would advise the traveler to make
his first visit to the Citadel, from whence
he will get an idea of the bearings of the
different objects of curiosity, and be able
to more round the city without the assist-
ance of a dragoman, to whom, at present,
he must be indebted for his latitude and
longitude. On your way to and from the
citadel you will visit, the mosque of Tay- !
loon, the oldest in the city, the mosque of
Sultan Hassan, the splendid mosque of Me-
hemet Ali, the pacha's palace, and bazar of
Ghor^eh.
From the citadel is displayed a magnifi-
cent panorama. To the east are seen the
obelisk of Heliopolis and the tombs of the
922
, Mamelukes ; to the south the lofty quar-
ries of Mount Mokattem, with ruined cas-
tles, mouldering domes, and the remains
of other edifices ; southwest and west are
the grand aqueduct, mosques, and mina-
rets, the Nile, the ruins of old Cairo, and
the island and groves of Rhoda ; beyond
the river, on the southwest, the town (ihi-
zeh, amid groves of sycamore, fig, and palm
trees; still more remote, the pyramids of
Ghizeh and Sakkara, and beyond these tho
great Libyan desert. In the northern di-
rection may be seen the green plains of the
delta, sprinkled with white edifices ; and
to the north and northeast of the spectator
is the city of Cairo, with her ./our hundred
mosques, whose sunlit domes are glistening
in the sun. It is a never-to-be-forgotten
sight. And at your feet the spot made
memorable by Emin Bey, who escaped dur-
ing the well-known massacre of the Mame-
lukes by leaping his horse a frightful dis-
tance from the top of the wall.
The circumstances of tho massacre were
these : Early in the spring of 1811, Mehe-
met Ali, who by his genius and daring had
caused himself to be appointed Pacha of
Egypt, was obliged to be at Suez, to super-
intend the preparations for his Arabian ex-
pedition to displace the Wahabees, who had
driven the Turks from the Holy Land of
Arabia, Mecca, and Medina. While there,
he received information that the Mameluke
chiefs, jealous of his power, intended to
waylay him on his return from Suez. In-
stead of remaining until the next day, as
was expected, he started that night on a
dromedary, and in ten hours, before the
break of day, with four out of his eighteen
attendants, he entered Cairo, the distance
l>i'iii!4 80 miles! This, with other plots
and intrigues of the Mamelukes which he
had discovered, determined him to exter-
minate all who could be found. The day
fixed for the ceremony of investing his son,
Toosoom Pasha, with command of the army
was the 1st of March, 1811. All the prin-
cipal chiefs were invited to be present.
When the ceremony was over they mount-
oil their horses, but, on reaching the gates,
they found them closed. A suspicion of
treachery immediately flashed across their
minds, which was confirmed by a shower
of balls from behind the ramparts. With
the single exception of Emin Bey, who took
the fearful leap alluded to above, every
CAIRO.
[EGYPT.]
CAIRO.
soul perished. A proclamation was then
issued to exterminate every Mameluke
found in tin- city. Ibrahim Bey, with l.'di
of his follower-. pt-rMied in the citadel, and
nearly 800 in the city.
Cairo is surrounded by walls, and situ-
ated in the midst of gardens and groves of
mimosas and palm-trees. The interior of
the town presents a hustling and animated
scene of traffic, in which Oriental manners
and appearances are more correctly pre-
served, and more vividly presented to the
eyes of the stranger, than in any other great
city of the East in the present day, with
the sole exception of Damascus. The civ-
ilizing influences of the West have not
wholly destroyed the charm of Oriental
costumes and manners, and the bazars still
retain that poetry and romance which looks
you in the face from out every page of the
Arabian Nights.
The houses are solidly constructed and
lofty, being mostly two stories high. The
roofs, which are flat, serve for domestic
purposes, and are the resort of the family
in the cool of the evening. Most consid-
erable houses inclose an open, unpaved
court, into which the doors and windows
of the principal apartments open. The
front doors of the larger houses are hand-
somely carved, painted, decorated with
Arabic inscriptions, and furnished with iron
knockers and wooden locks. The court-
yard and ground commonly contain wells
and fountains, and sometimes a hall, hand-
somely fitted up, where the master of the
house receives visitors. The upper apart-
ments are those of the women and children.
The mode of building houses in Cairo is
such that, with the narrowness of the
street, they nearly meet at the top, each
story projecting beyond that immediately
below it. This is, however, common in
many towns in hot climate?, for the pur-
pose of obtaining greater coolness ; and in
nearly all business streets the small portion
of blue sky is shut out by mats, awnings.
or boards. Under these canopies the peo-
ple gather to smoke and gossip, ever and
anon pushed one side by a train of solemn
camels, who, with nose erect, thread their
noiseless way : here the shopkeeper reclines
listlessly in his 8 X 10 stall, some lying half
asleep, while others are stretched in pro-
found repose, all yielding to the influence
of a climate as delightful as it is salutary.
The city is divided into different quar.
ters, separated from each other by gates,
which are closed at night. There is the
Copt quarter, the Jews' quarter, and the
Franks' quarter. By this latter name all
Europeans are known in Cairo. There is
a gate-keeper to each gate, who is obliged
to open to every proper person carrying a
lamp. There being no public lamps in
the city, every person out after dark is
obliged by law to carry one.
The number of dogs in Cairo is fully
equal to those in Constantinople, in pro-
portion to the size of the city, and their
habits are very similar. The}' are more
divided into republics than in Constantino-
ple, and woe betide the " foreign" dog who
crosses the frontier line. He is immedi-
ately attacked by the entire tribe ; and if he
succeeds in getting into his own territory
again, he immediately turns on his pur-
suers, with the confidence that, being on
his "native heath," he is safe from harm,
and ready to assume the offensive.
The principal buildings of Cairo nearly
all date from the reign of the Arabs and
the ancient sultans of Egypt. We must
except, however, the Jfotqve of Meftemet
A It, recently finished. It is situated in the
citadel, and is fully equal to any thing of
the kind in Constantinople. The ceiling
is divided into one large dome in the cen-
tre, surrounded by four half domes of the
same size, at the four corners of which are
four smaller domes. On the side toward
Mecca is another half dome the size of the
first. The columns, which arc very beau-
tiful, have ornamental capitals supporting
round arches. Nearly the whole of the
interior is of Oriental alabaster, and the
general effect is superb. The citadel is
supposed to occupy the site of the Acropo-
lis of the ancient Egyptian Babylon, which
occupied the site of the still more ancient
city of Latopolis, which dates about the
same as Memphis. In 1824 it was destroy-
ed by the explosion of the powder maga-
zine, when nearly 4000 people perished. In
addition to the mosque of Mehemet All, it
contains the pacha's palace, with a very
fine garden, his harem, the mint, the coun-
cil-chamber, and arsenal. The latter con-
tains a cannon foundery, and manufactures
of small arms and military equipments.
M"fque of Tttylo/m. This is one of the
most interesting mosques of Cairo for sev-
923
CAIRO.
[EGYPT.]
CAIRO.
eral reasons. First, it is supposed, at least
that is the tradition, that the hill Kalat-el-
Kebsh, on which it was built, was the same
on whicli rested Noah's ark ; also the spot
where the ram was sacrificed by Abraham.
It is the oldest mosque in Egypt, having
been built ninety years before Cairo was
founded, and was not inclosed in that city
until the time of Saladin. Its founder was
Ahmad ebn e'Tayloon, who was governor
in Egypt in 868 A.D.,and usurped the sov-
ereignty in the same year. It is the old-
est building now extant built with pointed
arches, and is said to have been construct-
ed after the plan of the Raaba at Mecca,
forming, with the mosque of Amrou, in
old Cairo, the true type of the primitive
mosques. It is a large square, on three
sides of which are two rows of columns,
forming a double gallery 30 feet in depth.
On the fourth side of the court are five rows
of columns, forming the mosque proper ;
here are the pulpit and reader's chair. In
the centre of the court is the fountain of
ablutions. Surrounding the court is an
outer wall, from the angles of which rise
four minarets. The call to prayer is mado
from the northwest minaret, on the outside
of which was built a circular staircase, that
the sultan might be able to ride to the top
on horseback. Here may be obtained one
of the finest views of Cairo. In an inclos-
ure in the court of the mosque stands a
tree, to point out the place where Noah's
ark rested.
The Mosque of Sultan Hassan is consid-
ered the finest in Cairo. The king had
the hand of the architect cut off, that he
might never be able to construct another
like it. Its magnificently ornamented
porch, its beautiful and graceful minaret
and extensive court, strikes every one with
admiration. In the back part of the build-
ing is the tomb of the founder, on which
rests a copy of the Koran. Above the tomb
are suspended three lamps.
The Mosque, of Sultan Kalaoon, which
is attached to the Morastan, or Mad-house,
is well worth a visit. The tombs of him-
self and son are also here. In the neigh-
borhood are numerous other fine mosques
and tombs of caliphs of the same dynasty.
Here also is that of Sultan Berkook, and
his wife and daughter. Here may be seen
a fine illuminated copy of the Koran writ-
ten by the ij'tter, the Princess Fatima.
924
The Mosques of El-Azhar, El- Choree,
and J/assan Ain are all well worth a visit.
One of the greatest curiosities to be seen
when on your visit to the citadel is Beer
Yuscf, or "Joseph's Well." It is sup-
posed to have been hewn in the rock by
the ancient Egyptians, and was discovered
by the Sultan Saladin when erecting the
citadel. It is 15 feet in diameter and 270
in depth, which brings its bottom on a level
with the Nile, from which its water is most
probably derived. A winding staircase
leads to the bottom, where are stationed
two mules, which turn a wheel at the top ;
around the wheel a rope is continually re-
volving, to which are fastened small earth-
en jugs about four feet apart. They de-
scend bottom up, go through the water at
the bottom, come up full, and discharge at
the top. This is kept continually going.
The mules are changed every four hours.
At the base of the citadel is the inclosure
where the sheik on horseback rides over
the prostrate forms of the pilgrims after
their return from Mecca, the wounded vic-
tims believing the more they suffer the
more blessed they are.
There are a number of palaces in Cairo
well worth a visit ; the principal are those
of Mehemet Ali and Ibrahim Pasha, Nuz-
leh Hanem, daughter of Mehemet Ali, and
Abbas Pasha.
There are a large number of baths at
Cairo, though few of them are very mag-
nificent; they number about 70 in all.
Although there are over 1000 cafes in Cai-
ro, few of them are worth visiting.
T\vo of the principal festivals of Cairo
are the Departure of the pilgrims to Mec-
ca, and their Return. These occur annu-
ally. The number often amounts to 7000
by the time they arrive in the territory of
Mecca, although in former years 20,000
was not an unusual number.
Every true believer in the Prophet feels
in duty bound, if possible, to make a pil-
grimage to Mecca once during his lifetime.
The principal objects of attraction in this
procession are the Muhmel and Kisu-eh.
The origin of the former was this : The
queen of Sultan Saleh Mohammed, wishing
to make the pilgrimage, and wishing to
have the custom continued during her
dynasty, sent yearly a splendid canopy,
which was borne by a camel magnificently
caparisoned. The custom has been con-
CAIRO.
[EGYPT.]
CAIRO.
tinued ; and, although the camel has no
rider, he is the chief attraction in the pro-
rosion.
The city of Cairo supplies, once a year,
the Kisweh, or lining for the Kaaba of
Mecca. It is manufactured of rich silk,
and splendidly embroidered with gold.
This is one of the leading features of the
procession the new one going to Mecca,
and the old one coming from Mecca.
We then have the ceremony of opening
the grand canal at old Cairo. This takes
place about the middle of August, previous
to the inundation, when the water has risen
sufficiently high to fill the canal and its
tributaries for the purpose of irrigation.
Tlii.s ceremony is performed with great
pomp by the governor of Cairo. The day
and night arc devoted to great rejoicings,
feastings, and illuminations.
The Jet en of Ramadan, the birthday of
the Prophet Mohammed, his granddaugh-
ter Saydeh. Zayncl), and the "two Has-
sans,'' are all celebrated with universal re-
joicings.
The extensive tombs of the Mamelukes,
lying to the east of the city, are very inter-
esting; hut, like the Pyramids and Colise-
um at Koine, their material has been car-
ried away to serve, in the construction of
other buildings. To visit them, you go
through the principal gate of the city, IJab
e' Nusr, or "Gate of Victory," which is
well worthy of observation.
South of the city are many very curious
and interesting tombs, among which arc
those of Mehemct Ali and his sons, with
other members of his family.
One of the excursions taken by all trav-
elers who visit Cairo, and which is laid
down in all guide-books, is that to the site
of the ancient city of Heliopolis. At the,
risk of being condemned by other writers
for not possessing sufficient imagination to
make this excursion interesting, the au-
thor, as well as his companion, thought
themselves "sold" in making it. If a five
hours' ride, which monopolizes the whole
day, half the distance through deep warm
sand, with a burning sun beaming down
upon your head, you wish to travel to see
a column such as you see at Alexandria,
Constantinople, Paris, or Koine, why, well
and good, go ! It may be said, " Hut the
ancient city of Heliopolis stood here." We
think it was Shelley who said there is not
VOL. II. R 2
1 a spot of land upon the habitable globe on
which a city has not stood ; and, with the
exception of this single obelisk, there is
not a stone a foot square indicating the
ruin of any thing here. To be sure, yon
pass the sycamore-tree under which it is
said Joseph and the Virgin and Child rest-
ed when they fled into Egypt, and where
they turned the salt and muddy water of
a fountain near by into a sweet and limpid
source. It was here also that the French,
under Kleber, defeated the Turks, March
19, 1800. The sycamore-tree is covered
i with names which nobody reads. The
j obelisk at Heliopolis is about 70 feet high
above the pedestal, G feet 2 inches in di-
ameter. Heliopolis, though very cele-
brated, was a town of small size, not cov-
ering over 16 acres, according to the cir-
cuit of its walls.
Since the erection of this obelisk by
I Osirtasen, 3600 years ago, the inundations
of the Nile have raised the surface of the
soil 25 feet above the obelisk's base, and,
in addition, it is of course supposed it was
erected on a mound of considerable emi-
nence, as was and is still the custom in
Egypt-
The excursion to the palace and gardens
of Shoobra is very interesting. They are
situated about four miles from the city.
The road leading to them is about 120 feet
wide, shaded all the way with beautiful
acacia-trees, planted by Mehemet Ali about
fifty years ago.
In the centre of a magnificent garden,
redolent with the perfume of roses, gerani-
ums, and orange-blossoms, stands a fount-
ain inclosed by a covered corridor; the in-
closure is about 300 feet square, filled with
water. The balustrades surrounding the
fountain are of beautiful Carrara marble,
and the water issues out of the mouths of
some forty alligators. The corridor, or pi-
azza running round the water, is beauti-
fully paved with marble. At each corner
of the square is a room fitted up with di-
vans ; one is the billiard-room, where there
is an excellent full-length portrait of Me-
hemct Ali ; the next the reception-room ;
next, dining apartment : this latter is most
magnificent ; and in the last corner the
offices of the guard. This is the play-
ground of the members of the pacha's ha-
rem. In the corridor we found numerous
ingenious wagons, worked by the feet and
926
OLD CAIRO.
[EGYPT.]
THE PYRAMIDS,
guided by the hand, capable of being pro-
pelled around the piazza with great rapid-
ity. In the water are small boats, where
some of the members of the harem row
races with the wagoners on the piazza,
while the pacha reclines, surrounded by
his favorite wives, in the centre of the
fountain, separated from the others by a
wall of rising and falling water issued from
the mouths of the marble alligators, while
the black slaves hurry here and there at-
tending to the orders of their mistresses.
Close to this building, in the same gar-
den, is another splendid kiosk, which is
now occupied by the pacha's brothers. It
is built on an elevation, and commands a
lovely view of the garden, Nile, and sur-
rounding scenery. The principal apart-
ment contains a lovely fountain in the cen-
tre ; the walls, floor, and all the surround-
ings are of Oriental alabaster. In the only
bedroom in the building, which is small,
we found several musical instruments, gui-
tar, flute, etc., with a small but well-se-
lected library of our best authors, in En-
glish, French, and Italian. Flowers sur-
rounded the library in every direction,
making the balmy atmosphere fragrant
with their perfume. The sparkling fount-
ains, marble floors, arabesque ceilings, and
fragrant gardens make this place indeed
an earthly paradise, creating a longing de-
sire in the beholder to revel forever amid
its beauties. Contiguous to this garden an
immense palace is in process of erection ;
it is intended for a harem. The oranges
here are the most delicious of their species.
A very fine excursion may be made to
the top of the mountains of Mokattem, to
see the petrified forest or wood ; the dis-
tance is about six miles.
One of the most interesting excursions
in the vicinity of Cairo is that to old Cairo
and the island of Rhoda delightful not
only from the many interesting places you
see, but for the enchanting ride and the cu-
rious people you meet.
Old Cairo was founded A.D. 638 by the
conqueror of the Romans, Amer ebn el As,
where he also built a mosque that still
bears his name. The Roman fortress or
station was close by, and was built on the
site of the ancient Egyptian Babylon.
This fortress was of great strength, and
withstood the attacks of the Arabs for
seven months. The mosqne of Omar is
926
very large, and in a very dilapidated con-
clition ; near the door are two columns,
about ten inches apart ; these were former-
ly the test of a true believer in the Prophet.
Any person not being able to pass between
them was set down as an infidel ; they now
say it is a specific cure for the rheumatism
to pass through. There is a Greek con-
vent here, built over the house occupied l>r
Joseph, the Virgin, and the infant Christ.
The Virgin's chair, and numerous relics
in the way of domestic utensils, are shown.
In a side room they exhibit a font in which
they say the Savior was baptized ! Our
donkey-boy, in describing it, said, "When
Christ little boy he Mussulman ; fill him
water, dip little boy in, he come out Chris-
tian: water no do little boj r good." Old
Cairo on the river is a place of great bus-
tle and activity.
From Cairo you cross to the island of
Roda or Rhoda ; it is about two miles in
length, contains some beautiful gardens,
which are a favorite resort of the Cairenes.
It also contains a powder magazine and the
Nilometer, which latter adjoins the palace
and harem of Hassan Pacha. The Nilome-
ter is a graduated pillar, about 40 feet in
height, placed in a well 15 feet wide, the
entrance to which is covered by an elegant
wooden dome, which was erected some ten
years since, the former stone one having
been thrown down by accident. The low-
est height the water ever rises here is 32
feet; 40 is perfect, but 42 would do im-
mense injury to the country. The upper
end of Rhoda is a lovely spot, and has al-
ways been occupied as one of the residences
of the rulers of Egypt. On this spot, ac-
cording to tradition, Thermusis, daughter
of Pharaoh, found the infant Moses in the
bulrushes.
A short distance down the river you
come to the village of the Dervishes, whose
most remarkable style of worship is well
worth a visit to behold.
We reserve the most interesting excur-
sion, that to the Pyramids, to the last, for
this reason : after you have made the ascent
to the top, rode there and back again, you
will neither want to walk nor ride for sev-
eral days to come!
We would recommend travelers to make
an excursion from Cairo to the Pyramids,
instead of from their boat in going up tho
Nile, for various reasons. The distance as
THF: PYRAMIDS.
[EGYPT.]
THE PYRAMIDS,
the crow flies from old Cairo is about six
miles, but in the months of November and
December, at the time visits are generally
made, it is necessary to follow the detour of |
the dike, which makes the whole distance
going and coming nearly -Js miles from
Cairo ; add to that the ascent and descent
of Cheops, the visit to the interior, the walk
from the boat up the hill, walking through
the -anil to the Sphinx, and you have a
hard day's work before you, divided thus: j
11 miles donkey riding ladies had better
take a carriage to old Cairo ; that will give
them but 8 miles donkey riding 2 miles
boating, and 1 mile walking. After leav-
ing Ghizeh you would imagine the Pyra-
mids were not over a mile distant ; such is
the clearness of the noon-day air of Egypt,
and so immensely do their figures stand out
in the distant view.
Lady travelers of much bashfulness will
find considerably to condemn in the boat-
men and guides with whom they may this
day be brought in contact. One garment
alone has civilization devoted to their use,
and that often the most ragged apology for
one : in fact, during the author's visit, and
that in the company of ladies, he noticed '
these full-grown men without the apology
at all.
The Pyramids seem equally large at a
distance of six miles as at one. Arrived at
the base of the great Pyramid of Cheops,
and seeing the enormous size of the masses
of stone of which it is composed, the sense
of awe produced by these edifices is still
farther increased.
In addition to the three great Pyramids
here, there are three small ones standing
beside Cheops, and three small ones beside
the third. The second and third are sur-
rounded by traces of square inclosures,
and are approached through enormous
ina-ses of ruins, as if of some great temple,
while the first is inclosed on three sides
by long rows of massive tombs.
By an examination of the smooth casing
of the top of the second Pyramid, and the
magnificent granite blocks which form the
lower stages of the third, we can imagine
what they must all have been from top to
bottom. The highly-polished granite blocks
which we see in the interior of the great
Pyramid, was no doubt the same material
which composed its casing, and that the
whole was covered with sculptures. In
the distance we see the groups of Abou-
Sir. Sakkara. and Dashtir. In short, the
whole country seems a vast cemetery, which
extends all along the western ridge for 20
miles behind Memphis.
Cheops, or the Great Pyramid, stands
farthe.-t north, and is the one usually as-
cended and entered by travelers. It is 780
feet high, rising from a base which meas-
ures 764 feet each way, and which covers
eleven acres of ground ! It is estimated
that Cheops had employed 100,000 men for
ten years to make the causeway from the
Nile to the Pyramid for the purpose of
conveying the stone, and 360,000 men
twenty years to build the monument! To
have some conception of the immense size
of tliis Pyramid, it is well to remember that
the tower of Strasbourg, the highest in Eu-
rope, is but 462 feet in height, and the cu-
pola of St. Peter's in Rome 429 feet.
Dr. Lepsius states, after his numerous
researches in regard to the Pyramids, that
their construction began in the centre and
was developed externally, after the man-
ner of sapwood in trees. Thus a pyramid
of medium size was first constructed, and
successive layers were then added to it,
each layer measuring sixteen or eighteen
feet in thickness, and increasing the pyra-
mid in size and elevation. To understand
this, it must be remembered that each
prince of the ancient monarchy, immedi-
ately after his ascension to the throne, be-
gan the construction of a pyramidical tomb,
but always of moderate porportions, to in-
sure its achievement in case of his death.
So long as the reign continued, however,
new layers were gradually added, so that
the size of a pyramid depended on the
length of the monarch's reign. Thus it
may be understood why some are of such
immense proportions, while others remain
still in an embryo state. On the death of
the kings, the Pyramids were enveloped in
hard-polished stones, which hid the grada-
tions of the stones, and covered, at the same
time, the entrance to the gallon- leading to
the sepulchral chamber. This explanation
is justified by well-known facts posterior to
the monarchy, as the tombs in Upper Egypt
present the same peculiarity.
The sheik at the Pyramids furnishes two
Arab guides to help to make the ascent ;
exercise yourself as little as possible; make
them do all the work ; each guide will take
927
THE PYRAMIDS.
[EGYPT.]
THE PYRAMIDS
you by a hand ; when half way up, there
is a hollow in the corner of the Pyramid
where you may rest, and where your guides
will indirectly indicate your life is in their
hands, and directly demand backsheesh.
You having to pay the sheik one dollar for
their services, will you refuse as directed ?
No ! nine chances out often, you give them
something, as you know a little slip, and
where would you be? Well, you give
them some backsheesh; when you get to
the top they will shout and jump, and clap
you on the back, feel your legs, and "good
massar," "strong massar," "gi mi back-
sheesh." Then you "take something," feel
good, look down at the glorious landscape
spread before you, and gi em backsheesh,
and the chances are, while you are in the
queen's or king's chamber, or down the
well, they get something more from you.
If you tell them, when you get through
with them you will give them something,
they will tell you "the sheik will take it
away if he sees."
The summit is a platform about 32 feet
square, but was formerly much smaller be-
fore the layer which hid the gradations was
employed by the caliphs in the construction
of Cairo. The view from the top is very
fine. Before you may be seen the Nile
winding its way through a carpet of ver-
dure, on which are scattered the villages of
Ghizeh, Fostat, and Boulak, and farther on
rises Cairo with its minarets.
The entrance to the Pyramids is invari-
ably on the northern side. In the Great
Pyramid we enter and descend through the
gallery at an angle of twenty-five decrees
until we arrive at a large block of granite
which obstructs the passage. Up one side
of this we are helped by the attending
Arabs, and continue in another gallery,
which rises at about the same angle that
the other declined. The length of this
rising corridor is about 113 feet, at the end
of which it is much enlarged, and divides
into two galleries. One of these is hori-
zontal, and leads to the Chamber of the
Queen. Returning to the point where the
paths divide, a large opening may be seen
on one side, called the Well ; it was former-
ly a gallery of communication with a lower
corridor, but is now partially closed. Of
the two galleries which we have just men-
tioned, the second is called the Grand Gal-
lery, and rises to the centre of the Pyramid,
928
until it reaches a vestibule leading to the
Chamber of the Sarcophagus. Here the roy-
al remains were deposited. The sarcopha-
gus, of red granite, still remains, but relic-
hunters have proved too much for it ; it is
fast disappearing under their Vandal touch.
'Tis said that Mehemet Ali remarked that,
when Europeans were censuring the Turks
for their ignorance in destroying so many
relics of antiquity, they set a very bad ex-
ample to those of whom they complain.
The second Pyramid was built by Sen-
Saophis, son of Cheops or Saophis, 2083
years B.C. Its base is 690 feet square and
447 high. It was first opened in the year
1200 by the Sultan El-Aziz-Othman, son
of Saladin. An inscription to that effect
may be found in the sepulchral chamber;
the entrance was closed, however, immedi-
ately afterward. Belzoni was the first who,
in 1816, discovered the gallery leading to
the central cave, but the sarcophagus then
contained nothing but earth. On the up-
per portion of this pyramid, the outer cov-
ering of polished stones still remains, mak-
ing it very difficult of ascent.
The third Pyramid, built by Mencheres,
is 333 feet square at the base and 203 feet
high. This Pyramid, like the second, was
opened and shut in the time of the caliphs.
Colonel Wyse was the first to re-explore
the interior in 1837. There is but one
chamber in this Pyramid, in which was
found a stona sarcophagus : this was lost
in a vessel going to England ; but a wood-
en coffin and a mummy found in the pas-
sage leading to the chamber are now in the
British Museum.
A short distance from the Pyramids is
the Sphinx as much greater than all other
sphinxes as the Pyramids are greater than
all other tombs. It is now so covered with
sand that the only human part the head
and body are visible. The whole figure
is cut out of the solid rock with the excep-
tion of the fore paws, and worked smooth.
The cap, or royal helmet of Egypt, has
been removed, but the shape of the top of
the head explains bow it was arranged.
The Sphinx was a local deity of the Egyp-
tians, and was treated by all in former
times with divine honors. Immediately un-
der his breast an altar stood, and the smoke
THE SPHINX.
[EGYPT.]
THE PYRAMIDS.
of the sacrifice went up into the gigantic
nostrils, now vanished from his fact-. The
size of the Sphinx, as given liy Piiny, is,
height, 143 feet; circumference round tin-
forehead, 102 feet. The paws of tin- leo-
nine part extended 5o feet in front. An
inscription cut on one of UK- paws has been
translated by Dr. Young :
Tay form stupendous here the goda have
placed,
Sparing each spot of harvest-bearing land :
And with thus wondrous work of art have
graced
The rocky isle encumbered once with sand;
And near thy Pyramids have liid thee stand :
Not that fierce Sphinx that Thebes erewhiL-
laid waste,
But great Latona's servant, mild and bland ;
Watching that prince beloved who fills the
throne
Of Egypt's plain?, and calls the Nile his own.
That heavenly monarch (who his foes defies),
Like Vulcan powerful, and like Pallas wisi-."
It is generally understood that sphinx-
es were the giant representatives and
guards of royalty. How appropriate a
guard this Sphinx of Sphinxes is to these
tombs of tombs ! Though mutilated and
defaced, the lonely Sphinx still possesses
a strange and weird beauty.
"Comely the creature is, but the come-
liness is not of this world. The once wor-
shiped beast is a deformity and a monstr-r
to this generation ; and yet you can see
that those lips, so thick and heavy, were
fashioned according to some ancient mode
of beauty, some mode of beauty now for-
gotter forgotten because that Greece drew
forth Cytherea from the flashing foam of
the ^Egean, and in her image created new
forms of beauty, and made it a law among
men that the short and proudly-wreathed
lip should stand for the sign and main
condition of loveliness through all genera-
tions to come. Yet still there lives on
the race of those who were beautiful in the
fashion of the elder world, and Christian
girls of Coptic blood will look on you with
tlii- sad, serious gaze, and kiss your chari-
table hand with the big pouting lips of the
very Sphinx.
Laugh and mock if you will at the
worship of stone idols, but mark ye this,
ye breakers of images, that in one regard
the stone idol bears awful scinMa:
Deity unchangefulness in the mid.-t of
changi the same seeing, will, and intent,
forever and ever inexorable ! I'pon ancient
dynasties of Ethiopian and Egyptian kings ;
' upon Greek and Roman, upon Arab and Ok
t'. m;. n conquerors; upon Napoleon dream-
ing of an Eastern empire : upon battle
and pestilence; upon the ceaseless misery
of the Egyptian race; upon keen-eyed
travelers, Herodotus yesterday and War-
burton to-day; upon all and more, this
unworldly Sphinx has watched and watch-
ed, like a Providence, with the same earn-
est eyes and the same sad, tranquil mien;
and we shall die, and Islam shall wither
away, and still that sleepless rock will lie
watching and watching the works of a
new, busy race with those same sad, earn-
est eyes and the same tranquil mien ever-
lasting. Ytu dare not mock at the Sphinx."
To the eastward of the Sphinx, on the
banks of the Nile, distinguishable onlv bv
a few mounds and shapeless heaps of ruins,
stood the far-famed ancient city of Mem-
phis, once the capital of Egypt. The vil-
lage of Mitraheny now occupies a por-
tion of its site. An excursion might be
made to this village from the Pyramids to
sec the colossus of Kcmeses, the vaulted
tomb, and the Pyramids of Sakkara and
Aboo-Sir.
The Pyramids of Sakkara are about eight
or ten in number, and mostly of small or
medium size. Guides may be found at
Sakkara for visiting the great Pyramid,
the tombs of the Ibis, and the temple of
Serapis. The great Pyramid measures on
two of its sides 390 feet, and on the remain-
ing two 356; contrary to the general rule
of these monuments, it does not form a per-
fect square at the base. In the centre of
this Pyramid is a large well, the top of
which is on a line with the base of the Pyr-
amid, and descending far into the earth.
The sarcophagus is placed in a cave at the
bottom. The age of this monument, and
the name of the king whose remains were
placed here, are unknown. In one of the
galleries leading to a chamber now closed,
a line of hieroglyphics was found, giving
the name of an ancient king. It is the
only inscription of the kind in any of the
Pyramids, and it is not supposed to be the
date of the monument.
On the left of the great Pyramid is an-
other, called by the Arabs (Mastahet el-i'i-
ron'n) the throne of Pharaoh. It does not
seem to have been finished, and presents
to-day a mass of ruins hardly bearing the
pvramidical form. Its date, also, is un-
929
TEMPLE OF SERAPIS.
[EGYPT.]
INSTRUCTIONS.
known. In the surroundings of Sakkara
may be found numerous wells, containing
mummies of the sacred animals, of ser-
pents, cows, the ibis, sheep, and also hu-
man mummies, all more or less injured by
the dampness.
The mummies of the ibis are north of the
Pyramid, and are inclosed in earthenware
vases in the form of sugar-loaves. Some
of them have the beak, the feet, and some-
times part of the feathers perfect, but most
of them are carbonized or turned to dust.
The Temple of Serajns was discovered
by M. Mariette in 1850, and, after much
difficulty, was excavated under his direc-
tion. An avenue of more than 140 sphinxes
was thus brought to light leading to the
temple, but it has been again almost en-
tirely refilled by the drifting sands.
Q30
INSTRUCTIONS FOR A VOYAGE TO UPPER
EGYPT.
Steamers of all sizes are placed at the
disposal of travelers for a trip up the Nile
from Cairo to Philae, and from Philoe to
Wadi Halfi (the second cataract). These
steamers are under the direction of the
Viceroy, and managed by Thomas Cook &
Son. A company of from twenty-five to
thirty persons may engage one for the
trip, which, to make the ascent as far as
Assouan, and return, generally takes about
three weeks. Fare to the first cataract
and back, $235 ; to the second cataract and
back to Cairo, $400. This includes every
thing guides, donkeys, saddles, etc. The
railroad now extends along the Nile from
Alexandria to Minieh, thus shortening, if
desired, the trip by steamer.
During the voyage the steamers will
stop at all stations where monuments of
antiquity are to be seen, as follows : two
hours at Beni-Souef : two hours at Minieh
(horses or donkeys will l>e furnished here to
visit the grottoes of Beni-Hassan) ; three
hours at Beni-Hassan ; five hours at Siout ;
INSTRUCTIONS.
[EGYPT.]
INSTRUCTIONS.
two hours at Guirgueh; eight hours at
Quench and Denderah ; three days at
Thebes, to visit the temples of Karnak,
Luxor, and the environs; three hours at
Esneh ; six hours at Kdfou ; two hours at
Kom-Ambou andGebel-el-Silsila; two days
at Assouan in all, seven days and nine
boon.
In returning from Assouan the steamers
will stop only one hour at the following
six places : Kom-Ambou, Edfou, Esneh,
Thebes, Quench, and Sioot.
Arrangements in regard to Meals.
At 8 o'clock A.M., coffee, tea, milk, and
biscuit; at 11 o'clock A.M., five different
dishes, six kinds of dessert, and coffee ; at
5 o'clock P.M., six different dishes, six
kinds of dessert, and coffee ; in the even-
ing, tea and biscuit.
If all the passengers, in accord, desire to
leave any of the stations before the appoint-
ed time, and will ^ive thc'captain a written
request signed by the entire party, then he
will be obliged to leave immediately : in
this case the passengers will have no right
to demand any compensation for the differ-
ence in time. But if, on the contrary, any
of the passengers, however small may be
their number, are opposed to this change,
then the captain must leave at the appoint-
ed time.
The administration will not be responsi-
ble for money or valuables unless delivered
to it.
Children under ten years of age will only
p:iy half fare ; under four years of age no
passage-money will be demanded.
Passengers are not compelled to give
fees to the servants or employes of the
company, although it is done more or less.
If any passenger, after having received
his ticket, should not come on board at the
appointed time, he will be received on the
next steamer by showing his ticket for the
one before ; but if he should happen to miss
the next steamer, he will have to pay for
another ticket, his former one being no
longer of value.
If any one of the passengers, before ar-
riving at the station to which he has paid
his passage, should desire to disembark, he
can do so by giving up his ticket and losing
all right to any difference in price.
The administration keeps a good doctor
on board each steamer.
Tho steamers usually start from Boolak,
the port of Cairo, at 3 o'clock P.M., stop-
ping the first night at Bedreshayn, or Mem-
phis, on the west bank ; the next night at
Benisooef; third night at Minych; fourth
night, Tel-el-Ainarna ; fifth night, Assioot;
sixth night, Sohag ; seventh, Kenneh ;
eighth, Thebes ; three days at Thebes, one
day to Esneh, one to Edfoo, and one to the
Island of Philse, which is at the first cata-
ract. Steamers leave Philse twice a month
for the second cataract, to correspond with
those from Cairo.
Lady travelers should hire saddles for
the trip at Cairo, few being kept on board
the steamer and none to be had at the
towns above. It would be better to buy
saddles, especially if intending to make the
Syrian trip ; it is the cheapest investment
one can make, and, should you want to dis-
pose of them when through, you can do so
at about one half the first cost. You can
buy a very nice English or French gentle-
man's saddle for twenty dollars ; a lady's
should not cost over twenty-five or thirty.
If you have made your contract with
your dragoman for your Syrian trip, it
would be well to take him with you on tha
steamer, for the purpose of serving you in
a thousand ways. The author here wish-
es to record the fine abilities and honesty
of Achmet Salem, his dragoman during his
trip up the Nile and a tour of forty days in
the Holy Land. We have never seen hia
equal.
Boats, or Dahabeehs. If the traveler pre-
fer making the ascent of the Nile in a daha-
beeh, and if going to the second cataract,
which will occupy three months, he should
start from the middle of November to the
first of December ; if to the first cataract,
which will occupy two months, the time is
generally from the loth of December to
the loth of January. This will bring the
time right for making the tour of Palestine
and Syria, which should commence about
the middle of March, devoting two weeks
to the Ked Sea and the Suez Canal. The
distance from Cairo to Assouan is 585 miles.
From Assouan to Wadi Haifa, the second
cataract, the distance is 219 miles. The
mau'iiilicent cavern temple of A boo Simbel,
second only to Thebes in grandeur, is forty
miles below the second cataract. The ex-
pense of this excursion depends in a great
measure on the taste and means of the tray
931
INSTRUCTIONS.
[EGYPT.]
INSTBUCTIONS.
eler : you can live on a Nile boat as you
live in a hotel, first, second, or third class.
Travelers who can aftbrd it should try and
get the best: you are entertained in pro-
portion to what you pay ; so it is in the
Holy Land. Dragomans have $6 per day.
horses, saddles, cooks, etc. ; they have a
different class at 10 per day. If with
five or six persons, you can go for $5 or $G
per day, or for $7 or $8 per day ; if with
one or two others, every thing first class, it
should cost $10 per day : this includes boat,
provisions of the best quality, all the boat-
men, donkeys to visit the monuments, pay
for taking the boat over the cataracts in
fact, every thing. Get a good dragoman,
well recommended, and make a contract
with him ; draw up the documents in pres-
ence of the consul or vice-consul, and watch
carefully that he fulfills all the conditions,
and you will live better on the Nile than
in the hotel. If j r ou are alone, and of good j
disposition, you may fall in with a party at
the hotel to join. As much of the pleasure
of the Nile voyage depends on the disposi-
tions of the parties, it would perhaps be
better to select your companions before
coming to Egypt ; you would then be pre-
pared to act at once. Going up alone
would be stupid, and more expensive, but
better than with a disagreeable person
from whom you could not separate after
having started. A party of two is also
too small, unless two very dear friends.
Four is the best number; five is one too
many.
You must stipulate with your dragoman
for the number of days' stoppage to visit
the tombs ; twenty will be sufficient if you
go to the second cataract, and fifteen if
only to the first. Also contract, in case
you should wish to remain over that time,
how much you must pay per day. Also
see that the number of men mentioned in
the contract is sufficient to man the boat
properly; that the vessel is thoroughly
painted and varnished ; and that the sails,
ropes, oars, and every thing are in proper
condition ; that the sailors will be obedient
to the orders of the hirer ; that they will
be obliged to tow the dahabeeh whenever
necessity requires it. It is customary to pay
one month in advance. Have it well un-
derstood that you will in no way be re-
sponsible for any accident that may hap-
pen to the boat at the cataracts or any
932
other place. If you wish to go above the
first cataract your boat must not be of the
largest kind. Supply yourself with every
thing you want before you leave in the way
of guide-books, maps, medicines, guns and
pistols (with the different varieties of am-
munition), and an American and private
signal flag. The dragoman usually makes
out a list of such things as he is in the
habit of buying ; any additional articles
that you may suggest he will cheerfully
furnish. He should also inform you that
it is impossible to get small coin in Upper
Egypt, and that, although your dragoman
agrees to pay all fees, donkey hire, etc.,
still you will want money for relics or
something else.
It is superfluous to tell intelligent trav.
elers that they must take suitable clothing
for both hot and cold weather the same
they would use at home for roughing it,
perhaps. With the exception of some
white sun-shades, and green veils to guard
your eyes against a noon-day sun, vou can
dress precisely as you would at home dur-
ing the summer.
Should the traveler prefer attending to
the supplying or stocking of his own boat
(which we do not recommend, thinking it
better to let the whole matter rest with the
dragoman, if you have a good one), we
quote the list of supplies laid in for threa
persons for two months, calling attention
to the fact that the supplies were for three
gentlemen; should there be ladies in votir
party, the proportion of wine and cigars
must be taken in consideration. We also
give a cop}- of the contract made directly
with the reis or captain of the boat, and
not with the dragoman :
" In choosing a bark it is particularly
necessary to ascertain that it has been re-
cently sunk, and that it is also fresh paint-
ed inside, which is done to destroy the ver-
min, especially rats and bugs. It must then
be seen that the bark is roomy, that all the
windows are whole, that the sails, oars, and
spars are in good condition, that the benches
for sleeping on in the cabin are covered
with cushions and furnished with musquito-
nets, that there is a proper washing appa-
ratus, a fireplace and a baking-oven cov-
ered with a roof, that looking-glasses are in
the cabins, and a large pitcher on deck, in
which the water of the Nile is made drink-
able. Finally inquiries ought to be made
INSTRUCTIONS.
[EGYPT.]
INSTRUCTIONS.
respecting the reputation of the reis (cap-
taiii), and whether the bark is one of the
best kind of sailing vessels.
"When all this has been Ascertained, the
traveler ought to go with the reis to the
consulate to draw up a written contract.
This is written out in two copies, and sign-
ed and sealed by both parties. The trav-
eler will do well to have his contract with
\im during the voyage.''
topy of Contract between a Tourist and Reis.
"1. Saturday, the th of the month Ilabi
acher, in the year 1273 (January, 1X57), the
lii-is Ibrahim lets out a bark of 200 Ardeb
tonnage to Mr. L., to go from Cairo to As-
souan, at a cost of 40 for the whole voyage
of sixty days, counting from Sunday, the
llth of January, 1x57, '2G to be paid in
advance, the remainder on a safe return.
"2. The crew must c nisi-t of eight sail-
ors, a mate, and a reis. They must all be
healthy, strong, and obedient to the com-
mands of the hirer. Xo one must leave
the ship without his permission. If one
of the crew runs away or becomes incapable
of working during the voyage, he must be
replaced by another immediately.
" 3. The departure of the boat depends
upon the pleasure of the hirer. The reis
is bound to lay to during the night near
safe villages, and to station two men on
the watch.
"4. The reis is bound to allow the hirer
twelve days for visiting the places he wishes
to see. If the latter desires to stay longer,
he is bound to give a compensation for
each following day agreeable to the con-
tract.
" 5. The gentlemen on their part allow
the reis to lie by twenty-four hours at As-
sioot and Esneh, to buy provisions and to
have bread baked.
"6. If the voyage lasts longer than sixty
days, including the twelve days mentioned
in 4 and the two in o, it is not necessary
for the hirers to pay extra.
"7. The bark must be kept clean. The
re is is bound under all circumstances to go
as far as Assouan, and to have the bark
towed if the wind is contrary, and to have
it rowed when returning.
"8. The owner has no right to claim
any indemnification if the vessel is dam-
aged during the voyage.
" Sealed and signed, etc.
"The expense of a bark depends upon its
size and fitting up, and on the season : a
very large and beautifully fitted up bark,
50 to 70. The wages of the ship's com-
pany is always included, but it is customa-
ry in Assioot and Esneh to give a sheep,
and, if they have conducted themselves
well, to send them a present of a few dol-
lars when returned to Cairo. No attention
is to be paid to any other claim they may
make, though they beg bakshish at every
town they pass.
"Provisions. This depends upon the
tourists themselves. For those accustom-
ed to the luxuries of the Grand Seigneur
we give no calculation, as expense will be
a secondary consideration to them. To
make the tour pleasant and convenient, ac-
cording to the general acceptation of the
terms, the following outfit and provisions
which were amply sufficient for three per-
sons during a two months' tour to Assouan
and back is offered.
" In making purchases of provisions, etc.,
the tourisa should be accompanied by a
dragoman, or employ an agent, who may
IMJ found at any hotel, in order to see that
the articles delivered correspond in quali-
ty, measure, and weight guaranteed by the
seller or broker, and at the same time
should have a bill. It is always better to
purchase rather too much than too little, as
sometimes the tour is protracted, and many
things are not to be had, or at a very high
price, in Upper Egypt, and those articles
which have not been used at all may be
sold again on the return to Cairo. Many
dragomans undertake the office of cook ; if
not, however, a cook must be engaged at a
salary of from 4 to 5 a month.
"Provision and outfit of a Nile bark for
three persons for two months.
"20 oka rice.
15 " maccaroni and vermicelli.
30 " flour for bread.
18 " potatoes (generally bad in Egypt)i
2 " white beans.
2 " Egyptian lentils.
6 " onions.
2 " greuts.
2 " ground grits, etc., for soup,
for 100 piasters, fowls, eggs, butter,
bread, muttonand beef, enough
to last three days as far as
Benisooef.
933
INSTRUCTIONS.
[EGYPT.]
INSTRUCTIONS.
Provision and outfit Continued.
2 oka dried apricots.
1 " raisins.
1 " almonds.
1 " dried plums.
800 oranges.
50 lemons.
2 Ibs. chocolate.
4 oka loaf sugar.
1 bottle mixed pickles.
1 " fish sauce.
4 cases green vegetables.
1 dried codfish.
1 Cheshire cheese.
1 Dutch cheese.
4 oka biscuits.
4 " sugar.
8 " coffee.
1 " tea.
2 rotl salt in tin cases.
4 fruit sausages from the Sinai (contain-
ing dates and almonds).
Spices for 10 piasters.
2 oka soap for washing linen.
1 bottle salad oil.
2 oka lamp oil.
2 bottles vinegar.
4 cases of anchovies.
2 " mustard.
60 bottles Hungarian red wine.
12 ' ' Somlo wine.
20 " ale.
8 " aqua vita;.
8 " brand}-.
4 oka composition candles.
6 " Dshebelli tobacco.
1000 cigars.
3 doz. pipe bowls (which are very brit-
tle).
J- doz. cut tumblers.
| ' " " small.
} * tea-cups and saucers.
$ ' small Turkish coffee-cups.
J ' plates.
\ ' soup plates.
1 soup tureen.
2 Assiettes.
J doz. table-spoons.
J ' ' tea-spoons.
\ " knives and forks.
1 salt-cellar.
1 tea-board.
2 candlesticks.
1 ship lantern.
1 cabin "
934
" And, farther, a tinned copper, 2 tubs
with covers, 2 pans, 6 earthen-ware pots for
boiling and baking, G gullihs (Egyptian
earthen water-bottles), 1 pail for fetching
water, 1 pail for washing up, 1 kitchen ta-
ble, 1 tin coffee and tea pot, 1 ladle, 1 soup-
ladle, 1 grater, 1 butcher's knife, 1 hack
knife, 1 gridiron, 1 sieve, 1 pudding form,
1 tin pot for water, 1 hen-coop, 1 gauze
cover for cold meat, etc., fire-wood, and
charcoal for a week, table-cloths, towels,
pillow-cases, sheets, and blankets, blacking
and brushes, a broom, a few dusters, a large
case for crockery and small kitchen iitcn-
sils, and, lastly, powder (quassia) for de-
stroying the troublesome Hies on the Nile,
arrow-root and gum arabic in case of an at-
tack of diarrhoea, rose-water for inflamed
eyes, Epsom salts or castor oil for dj r sen-
tery, and a few ounces of alum for clarify-
ing water.
" Apparatus for drawing, and station-
ery, must be brought from Europe or from
Cairo. Matches, and paper for smoking
cigars, may be had at every bazar. Fowls,
eggs, sheep, milk, Arabian bread and toler-
able butter, may be bought in the villages
on either side of the Nile ; for this purpose,
the party must be provided with a bag of
500 piasters in \ and pieces, as the Fel-
lahs do not like changing silver or gold
coin.
" The tour to Thebes usually takes twen-
ty days if no stoppages be made ; if the
wind be very favorable, in fifteen, but by
adverse winds it can not be accomplished
in less than thirty. From Thebes to As-
souan, on an average, five days. The re-
turn tour from Assouan to Cairo requires;
about a fortnight, but before the end of
December it sometimes happens that ves-
sels are delayed a week, making three
weeks. To view the principal objects in
the order we are about to describe, twelve
days will be necessary, so that the traveler
who has been favored by the wind, and
makes the best use of his time, may com-
plete the tour in seven weeks.
" Up the stream, as a rule, the desire to
see the monuments on the bank must be
regulated by the. wind, but rather leave
them till arriving at Assouan, as leaving
the bark sometimes prevents the sailors
from availing themselves of the good hu-
mor of Boreas. If the god permit this, or
if the tourist is not limited to time, he may
fxmucnoHB.
[EGYPT.]
see the objects of minor importance, viz.,
the grottoes of Beni-Hassan, the temple of
l)eliderah, and the ruins of Abydos rather
than Tin-lies, as lie who has been in Karnak
and in tlie toinlis of the kings will take lit-
tle interest in the smaller and less noble.
Farther dircetions:
' 1. Before the door, and over tin- roof
of the cabin, an awningmust be constructed
to keep off the sun.
"2. Imperative orders must be given
that the flooring and roof of the cabin be
swept and washed every day. One of the
sailors must be deputed to do this, for which
he receives a few piasters a week.
" 3. The sailors must be forbidden
(through the reis) to keep the sail fast ;
they must always keep the rope (sbogul)
in hand, in order that they may let it go
immediately when the wind blows the bark
too near the rocks : for instance, at Gebel
Shech Umbarak, Gebel el Dayr, Gebel
Shech Timai, Gebel Abu Fedi, Gebel Shech
Haridi, and at Gebel Tookli near Girgeb.
Most of the accidents on the Nile are caused
by the neglect of this rule.
"4. The behavior of the traveler toward
the sailors must b.' such that they may see
at once they are /m servants. These must
be given to understand, through the drago-
man. Ijefore setting out, that nothing unrea-
sonable will be expected from them, but
that the orders of the traveler must under
all circumstances be obeyed without oppo-
sition, least of all must they show open re-
fractoriness, and that for everv act of dis-
obedience or deceit they will be punished
by the authorities ; but, if they conduct
themselves properly, they will be rewarded
at the end of the voyage. This threat may
easily be put into practice by him who has
a firman, or a letter of introduction to the
consular agents. The traveler must act
with firmness, particularly the tirst few-
days. B}' this means he will gain respect
and obedience to his wishes. After a time
he may show indulgence and kindness,
which they will consider as a reward. If
this rule be not acted upon at tirst, the
Arabs will attribute his kindness to igno-
rance or fear, will cheat in every way, and
even intimidate him. and will not submit
to the strict treatment which then, too late,
is resorted to. In a word, the Arab sailors,
when well treated, are good-hearted and
willing, more so than any others ; but if not,
they am more insubordinate than most oth-
ers, and the traveler may spoil the whole
tour by not beyinniny property. In other
revpi ct> they are industrious, contented,
always merry and good creatures. If thev
even try to cheat those whom they think
unacquainted with the subject, a thief is
seldom found among them. The tourist
may leave his dahr,beeh a whole da}', and
they will scarcely steal even a handful of
tobacco.''
There is great diversity of opinion in re-
gard to steamers and dahabeehs on the
Nile. The author has made the ascent
both ways, under the most favorable au-
spices, and must say it is hard to decide, and
that it depends entirely on circumstances.
| Those who seek lovely views and varying
scenery will be disappointed : the scenery
is grand, but not beautiful. In the narrow
valley of the Nile they will find the monot-
onous fields of corn, sugar-cane, and vege-
tables, bound on either side by barren
chains of mountains, in which the monu-
ments of antiquity are found. The same-
ness of the fields is occasionally broken by
groves of sycamores, palms, and acacias,
around which may be seen herds of buffa-
loes, camels, sheep, and goats. To persons
of nervous temperament, not fond of books,
and not invalids, who are engaged in busi-
ness or professions, who come to see the
monuments of Egypt, and not to pass their
j time, we say emphatically, take the steam-
er. Still, life on the Nile boat has a pecul-
iar charm : the balmy air, the clearness
and purity of the sky, the absence from all
excitement, freedom from all restraint, and
monarch of all you survey, and if you com-
bine with these charming companions, en-
joyable books, a fine cook, and a choice va-
riety of wines, one must be without a soul
who could not pass three happy months,
even had Egypt no unequaled monuments
of antiquity.
After passing the pyramids at Memphis,
where we stop (if making the ascent by
steamer) the first night, there is nothing of
importance to see until we arrive at Beni-
sooef, if we except Harnm r-l KM>. or the
"false pyramid." so called from the fact
that the- Arabs supposed erroneously that
the base was a solid rock on which was
erected the superstructure, instead of which
the whole was a building.
Bfnisootfis the chief town ot a bevlik or
935
MlNYEH.
[EGYPT.]
TOMBS OF BENI-HASSAN.
province, situated sixty-two miles above
Cairo. It lies on the western bank of the
Nile, and presents the usual picturesque
grouping of mosques, domes, and minarets.
It is the residence of the governor of the
province, also of an American vice-consul
(Narsala Loga), an Egyptian ; travelers
should call on him and taste his coffee.
This province is one of the most productive
in Egypt. About ten hours' distance, west
from the Nile through the Faioum valley,
formerly was situated the Moeris Lake, now
dried up. Here stood the famous Laby-
rinth, King Amenemhe's palace, and an im-
mense pyramid of unburnt brick. In the
centre of the lake formerly stood two other
pyramids, on the summit of which sat two
gigantic statues of kings.
Eighty-two miles above Benisooef, where
the steamer generally stops the third night,
is the market town of Minyeh, one of the
prettiest towns on the Nile. It is the resi-
dence of a nazar, or under-governor, who is
subject to the orders of the governor of
Benisooef. The town contains many hand-
some buildings surrounded by date-groves,
and numerous baths and mosques ; one of
the latter contains several columns of Ko-
rean origin. The viceroy has recently
(1867) erected a very pretty palace, sur-
rounded with grape-vines and ornamental
trees. The site is very beautiful, and can
be seen on a point of land many miles be-
low the town ; it has two facades. He has
also erected five new sugar factories of
mammoth extent. They were built by
French engineers, in the most substantial
manner, and are the most perfect in the
world. They cover some six acres of
ground, and give employment to 1500 men.
Many of the chimneys are over two hun-
dred feet in height. A large quantity of
brown and refined sugar is kept constantly
on hand, with some thirty-six casks con-
taining 36,000 gallons of arrak, a rum made I
from the sugar-cane, slightly flavored with
anisette. The distilling apparatus was
erected by Paris workmen. The export
of sugar from Egypt is immense : in 1864
the export of cotton was over seventy-four
millions of dollars, but since the termination
of our war sugar has entirely superseded it.
^'olajses is also very extensively import-
ed ; it is put up in jars holding ten gallons,
which are manufactured in Kenneh ; the
market is held on Sunday. A few miles
936
up the river, on the opposite side, is the
cemetery of Minieh. It was a custom of
the ancient Egyptians always to bury their
dead on the opposite side of the river.
Fourteen miles above Minieh arc the
tombs of Beni-Hassan, the first specimen of
old Egyptian art to be met with above
Minieh. They are some half-hour's ride
from the river, over a hot and sandy road,
and a little tiresome. But you must not
measure the sights of Egypt hy Ueni-Has-
san they are the poorest of them all.
The tombs of Beni-Hassan are seen from
the distance, and appear as holes cut in a
white wall of limestone rock ; they are
considered the oldest monuments of Egypt,
before or during the time of Joseph, being
of an earlier date than those of Thelies.
They are all ornamented with colored fig-
ures representing the manners and cus-
toms of the old Egyptian race, and curi-
ous as showing how gay and agile these
ancient people could be, who in their arch-
itecture and sculptures appear so solemn
and immovable. The colors are preserved
with wondrous freshness, and the drawing
full of life and vigor.
On some of the walls are hunting scenes;
women playing musical instruments ; in-
flicting the bastinado on both sexes ; man-
ufacturing linen ; nearly all trades are
represented: brick-makers, glass-blowers,
potters, goldsmiths, a barber shaving a
customer, and another cutting toe-nails ;
women performing various feats of agility,
throwing up three balls and catching them
at once, etc. One tomb contains colored
pictures of the different animals, fish, and
birds ; conspicuous among the latter is the
white ibis, symbol of the god Osiris, vul-
tures, cormorants, pelicans, and hoopoes.
One of these tombs has long been famous
for containing the representation of the
presentation of Joseph's brethren to Pha-
raoh, but the best authorities now ignore
the whole thing, for several reasons : first,
the number is not correct ; second, the name
of the person present is neither Pharaoh
nor Joseph ; and, third, there is no present-
ation at all; in addition, the word "cap-
tives" is written over the strangers. Un
der the floor of these chambers are pits
where the dead were buried.
The traveler will notice here that nearly
every figure or picture painted, the artist
has written over it what he intended to
RHODA.
[EGYPT.]
TEL EL AXARNA.
represent ; what a serviceable custom it
would le u>r many of our portrait-painters
to adopt !
From some of the columns of the north-
ern grottoes the Doric style of architecture
originated ; they are fifteen and a half feet
high, by five feet in diameter. The Speos
Artime'los, or Grotto of Diana, should also
l)i> visit -d. It is situated in a little valley
opposite the town, about twenty minutes
from the other grottoes. There are some
remarkable specimens of sculpture on the
inner wall of the portico ; they represent
Thotmes sacrificing to the goddess Pacht,
the goddess of night and destiny.
A short distance above Beni-Hassan we
arrive at Rhoda, the seat of one of the vice-
roy's palaces, and also one of his great sugar
factories. The palace is very beautiful, and
cost nearly half a million of dollars. The
sugar factory employs 1400 men. Some
eight million pounds of brown sugar are
made here every season, in addition to a
large quantity of rum and molasses. The
viceroy monopolizes the manufacture of
sugar throughout his kingdom.
Opposite Klioda, ten miles above Beni-
Hassan, is the modern town of Shfkh Abnd-
dth, which occupies the site of the once fa-
mous city of Antinoe, built by Adrian in
commemoration of his favorite, Antinous.
who was here drowned in the Nile. There
are some remains of~a Roman theatre and
hippodrome still visible, also the remains
of some constructions which mark the di-
rection of the principal street.
Behind the village of E' Dayr, a short
distance from Antinoe, is a verv remark-
able painting in a grotto, representing a
colossus on a sledge indicating clearly the
method adopted by the Egyptians in mov-
ing heavy weights. There are nearly two
hundred figures pulling a rope attached to
a sledge, on which there is a colossus _'-!
feet high, and on the pedestal of the statue
stands a figure pouring out oil to facilitate
the movement; standing on the knee of
the figure is a man keeping time to the
song, that they may all pull together; and
standing round are numerous other figures
connected with the operation.
Along the eastern shore the hills for some
distance are perforated witli square holes,
deserted dwellings of the dead. It is said
that Sheik Haan lived in one of these
caves for twelve years with his wife, two
daughters, and little son. A small island
was here in the river, on which he culti-
vated lentiles. His daughters married in
the village opposite. One day his child
succeeded in getting on the island to play,
when a crocodile carried him off. The
sheik immediately disappeared, and with
him the island! Nothing but the cave
remains.
Fifteen miles farther up we arrive at
Tel elAmarnu, where there are a few i, r r< it-
toes hardly worthy of a visit. The doom-
palm, a very beautiful but common tree iu
Upper Egypt, here makes its first appear-
ance. This place marks the northern limit
of the crocodile ; they are hardly ever seen
below. A short distance above, and we
arrive at the village of Maabdeh, behind
which lie the celebrated crocodile-pits, rare-
ly visited by travelers. Here thousands
of crocodiles, finely preserved, are piled
from floor to ceiling, with an occasional
sprinkling of a ''human," supposed to be
the feeders of these ancient gods. Here,
amid the sacred dust, the devout admirer
of old Egyptian theology ma}-, if he choose
to explore them, obtain the experience of
the pleasures of suffocation. In making
this excursion the tourist should provide
himself with a lantern. Some years ago a
traveler and two Arabs lost their lives in
the most shocking manner: the torch which
they were carrying set fire to the linen
which surrounded the mummies, and their
retreat was cut off. Thomas Leigh. K>q.,
M.I'., an English traveler, in 1^10 k-ft two
of his guides dead and one dying, killed by
the vileness of the atmosphere, retracing
his >teps before he reached the chambers
of the mummies. ( lurdaring countryman,
AV. (.'. Prime, Esq., succeeded in thoroughly
exploring these pits and bringing a large
number of mummies to the United States.
Twenty-nine miles alx>ve Tel el Amarn?
we come to the town of ManfaliQt, which
contains some ten thousand inhabitants.
Part of the town has been washed away
by the encroachments of the Nile, but this
season (1868) stones are being sunk along
the shore which will protect it in future.
It is the residence of a governor, capital of
a province, contains numerous mosques,
a bazar, and public bath. Then; is a.
weekly market held on Sundays.
Twenty-five miles farther, and we arriv>
at Atsioot, by some called Sioot, the metrop
997
GAD EL KEBIR.
[EGYPT.]
ABYDOS.
olis of Upper Egypt, and the residence of
a pacha. It stands on the site of the an-
cient Lycopolis, or "City of Wolves,"
nearly two miles from the banks of the
river. The town is surrounded with beau-
tiful acacias and palm-trees, and contains
fifteen minarets and several mosques. This
is the halting-place of the caravans from
the long desert-journey from Darfur and
the interior of Africa. The palace of the
governor is quite an imposing building.
The population is 25,000. In the gray
mountains west of the town may be seen
the primitive tombs of the Egyptians.
Twenty-six miles above Assioot is the
large village of Gau el Kebir. This town,
or one of the same name, formerly stood
nearer the river, on the site of the ancient
Antceopolis. In 1823 the whole village was
carried away by the waters of the Nile.
Sixty-two miles higher we arrive at Gir-
geh, in former times the capital of Upper
Egypt. It takes its name Girgeh (George)
from a Latin convent dedicated to St.
George, which is one of the four most an-
cient Roman Catholic establishments in
the country.
From Girgeh the excursion to the ruins
of Abydos is generally made: if ascending
the river (passengers on board the steam-
ers do not generally make this excursion),
mules or donkeys may be hired at Girgeh,
and your boat sent up the river to Suma-
ta or Bellianeh, 3 hours farther up ; or if
coming down the river, take donkeys at
Bellianeh, and send your boat to Girgeh.
The excursion will well repay you. The
ruins are situated four hours south of Gir-
geh, at the base of the Libyan Mountains.
On our way we pass the village of Hardies,
made celebrated by a Mameluke chief who
named himself after it.
Abydos, which at one time ranked next
to Thebes, owed its importance to the fact
that the god Osiris was buried here, and
rich Egyptians from all parts wished to
have their bodies lie in the sacred dust
which their god had hallowed. The tombs
are very old. and date back to the IGth and
17th dynasties.
The principal ruins, which cover a great
extent, are the .Wemnonium, or palace of
Meninun. tnc Temple of Osiris, and the Ne-
cropolis. The palace of Memnon is partic-
ularly interesting, on account of the pe-
culiar construction of the roof, which is the
938
only one of its kind in Egypt. It is con-
structed of large stones, extending from
| one architrave to another not laid on their
faces, but on their sides, then cut out in
the form of an arch, the whole ornamented
with sculptures and hieroglyphics.
The Temple of Osiris lies north of the
Mcmnoniuni : this was one of the temples
the most revered in Egypt. It was here
j that, in 1808, the famous inscription, now
j in the British Museum, known under the
name of the Table of Abydos. was found.
It contained originally the names of all
the ancestors of Kameses the Great, which
, agrees with the names of the oldest of the
Pharaohs which were found at the Mein-
: nonium at Thebes. Part of the tablet was
unfortunately destroyed, and some of the
names lost.
North of the Temple of Osiris lies the
Necropolis, or burial-ground, where may be
seen numerous tomb-stones of the time of
Osirtasen ; also a colossal statue of that
Pharaoh, now in the museum of Cairo.
From Girgeh to Kenneh ths distance is
sixty-four miles. The Nile for this dis-
tance takes an easterly direction, which it
: maintains to Kenneh, where it resumes its
; southerly course.
Kenneh is a place of considerable im-
I portance, noted for its manufacture of the
porous jugs used so much in Egypt for
clarifying the Nile water. They are made
by hand, and with wonderful rapidity : the
process may be seen. Kenneh does quite
a business in trading with Persia and Ara-
bia. On the opposite side of the river
(which you cross by a ferry if going up in a
steamer, sending your donkeys also across
the ferry; none can be had on the other
side) stands the celebrated Temple of Den-
dirah. one of the best preserved in Egypt.
'I he portico was erected in the time of the
Emperor Tiberius, and on it may be seen
the name of that monarch, as well as those
of Claudius, Nero. Caligula, Ptolemy, and
Ca-sar. on the back wall. Descending
some twenty steps, you enter a most beau-
tiful hall, the roof of which is supported
by twenty-four pillars, sixty feet high by
eight in diameter, ornamented with beau-
tifully-painted sculpture. After this suc-
ceeds a hall of six columns, with three
rooms on either side, then a central cham-
ber, behind which is the sanctuary. The
whole length of this specimen of Egyptian
8113 I i -I * ii 8 B * t
Ulllill, "I'iilll 1 }
3 I I ! .H I I .! ?s > 1 1 1 H * ! b 1 1 1 1
i\l l\ i
s ^ i. -c v - -en
g a
THEBES.
[EGYPT.]
KARNAK AND LUXOR.
art is 250 feet, breadth 110. The temple
was commenced under the last 1'tolemics,
and terminated under Nero ; the Emperors
Caligula and Claudius contributed much
In its embellishment. ( >n the hinder walls
of the temple may lie seen the names of
Cleopatra and her son, the young C;i--ar.
which she gave to Ciesar, and on the out-
bide wall, behind the temple, is the portrait
of the famous Egyptian queen. It is very
evident, from the manner in which the
hieroglyphics and ornaments are executed,
that the sculptural art was in the decline
during the erection of this temple ; but the
architecture fails neither in grandeur, maj-
esty, nor general effect, and conveys a
strong impression on the traveler.
The temple is dedicated to the goddess
Hathor, reigning deity of the lower re-
gions, and is represented with cows' ears,
in honor of the animal sacred to her. ( )n
her head she wears as an ornament the
porch of the temple, the entrance to the
lower world.
From Kenneh to Thebes the distance is 48
miles. A short distance above Kenneh is
Kofi, the representative of the ancient
Coptos. The latter was formerly the start-
ing-point for an extensive caravan trallic,
which proceeded thence across the desert
to the port of Berenice on the Red Sea ;
and from its name that of its modern de-
scendants of the Egyptian race (the Copts)
is derived : between Kenneh and Thebes
the scenery is exceedingly tine. The The-
ban palm here begins to mingle with that
of the date. Vegetation is exceedingly
rich ; luxuriant crops of Indian corn and
sugar-cane are seen in the fertile plain that
stretches beside the river's bank.
Thebes. The most celebrated and mag-
nificent of the ancient capitals of Egypt ;
the capital of the kingdom of the Pharaohs
when in the zenith of their power, and
whose remains exceed in extent and grand-
eur all the most lively imagination can de-
pict. No written account can ever give
an adequate impression of the effect, past
and present, of its temples, palaces, obe-
lisks, colossal statues, sphinxes, and sculp-
tures of various kinds. They continue
from age to age to excite the awe and ad-
miration of the spectator. To have seen
tin; monuments of Thebes is to have seen
the Egyptians as they lived and moved
before the eyes of Hoses. To have Been
the tombs of Thebes is to have seen the
whole religion of the Egyptians at the most
solemn moments of their lives. Nothing
that can be said about them will prepare
the traveler for their extraordinary grand-
eur.
" Not all proud Thebe.V unrivaled wnlls contain,
Tin! wiirld's grout empress on the Kgyptian
plain,
That spreads her conquest o'er a thousand
states,
And pours her heroes through n hundred gate?,
Two hundred horsemen and two hundred cars
From each wide portal issuing to the wars."
It is possible to see the whole of these stu-
pendous ruins in three days, but the trav-
eler had better make it six. The first day
had better be devoted to the west side of
the river, say, first, the Ttmple. ofKoornah,
the Memnonium, the two Colossi, and the
ruins of Medinet Jlaboo. The second day,
the Vaults of A ssasif, Dayr, El Bahri, and
Mi >/; nit ft; then to the Tombs of the Kings,
and the third day to Luxor and Karnak.
The most striking of the ruins are those
of Karnak and Luxor, on the eastern bank
of the river, with the Memnoninm, M> i/imf
J/<i}><>. Koomah, Tombs of the Priests, Tombs
of the, Kings, and the Vocal Memtton, on the
western side. The sanctuary of Ammon,
a small granite edifice founded by Osirta
sen, with the vestiges of the earliest tern-
pies around, is the centre of the vast col-
lection of palaces and temples which is
called Karnak. Beside these temples a
few miserable Arabs dwell, whose chief
subsistence is derived from the visits of
travelers, to whom they sell scraps of pa-
pyrus, mummy cases, coins, and similar
objects of antiquarian interest, many of
them suspiciously modern in appearance.
The principal hall in the palace of Kar-
nak, which there can be no doubt is the
Temple of Ammon, the Jupiter of the Egyp-
tians, is 318 feet long by 160 broad, and
its roof is supported by 134 columns of
70 feet in height and 11 in diameter. The
approach to this stupendous structure is
through an avenue of colossal sphinxes
which is upward of a mile in length, and
connects the remains of Karnak with tho.-e
of Luxor.
The palace of I.uxor, though inferior to
those of Karnak, is also of vast dimensions.
Its principal entrance, is most magnificent.
On either side of the doorway stood two
obelisks or monoliths, each formed out of
088
GEBEL SILSILEH.
[EGYPT.]
ASSOUAN.
rooms on each side, from one of which a
flight of steps leads to the roof. The ceiling
of the Adytum was composed of six im-
mense slabs of stone, four of which remain ;
these are all split through in a direct line.
The next court is only 21 feet deep, also
covered with slabs of slate split through
like the preceding : this court has no col-
umns ; there are two small rooms on either
side, perfectly plain. Next court, 22 feet
deep, without pillars, and open at the top;
on one side is a small room, the walls of
which are covered with hieroglyphics and
figures, some of the latter reaping. On the
opposite side another small court, through
which you ascend six steps to an exquisite
little temple or sanctuary. It is only 14
by 15 feet, but the bas-reliefs are most per-
fect ; the ceiling and sides are perfectly
covered with them ; some are colored with
imperishable blue. In a direct line with
the pylon entrance, with the Pronaos and
Adytum, conies the Naos, or sanctuary,
from which there is no outlet. There are
no pillars, but in one corner stands an im-
mense red granite sarcophagus, in the
shape of a pyramid ; it is 14 feet 3 inches
high, 8 feet broad, and 8 deep. The Naos
is surrounded with nine small rooms. On
the exterior wall, at the northeast angle, is
an inscription, dated in the reign of Ptole-
my Alexander I., which alludes to a dona-
tion of lands made to the temple. The
Naos and Pronaos are the most ancient
parts of the temple ; they were erected
from 222-193 A.C. Under the ninth Ptole-
my and Euergetcs II. the portico was erect-
ed. The sculptures on the walls of the
Naos and Pronaos are of the same date,
while the grand exterior walls, with their
ornaments, are of the time of Philometer-
Soter and Alexander I. The temple was
dedicated to Harhat and his mother, Ha-
thor, whom the Greeks identified with their
Aphrodite (Venus). The inscriptions speak
of the infant god as the "great god, lord of
the heavens, son of Osiris, king of the kings
of Lower and Upper Egypt, master of gods
and goddesses." Most of the sculpture is
of a religious character, but there are some
which give representations of the military
exploits of some of the Ptolemies.
A short distance farther up the stream we
arrive at Gebel Silsileh, where the river is
quite narrow. Here are the quarries from
which the ancient kings of E^vpt procured
I the stones for erecting the mammoth edi-
j fices of Luxor, Karnak, Medinet Haboo,
etc. The name of this place, Sil.sileh,
which in the Arabic means chain, has given
rise to a legend, or the legend has given the
name to the place, that in former times the
navigation of the Nile was barred by a chain
which was swung across the river. On
the west bank there are several interesting
grottoes containing tablets or hieroglyph-
ics relating to the early days of the Theban
empire.
Thirteen miles above Silsileh, finely
situated on a hill on the cast bank, is the
temple of Kom-Ombo. It was commenced
by Ptolemaeus Philometer, and finished by
Neus Dionysus. Most of the pylons have
fallen into the river, and the portion of the
temple which now remains is the sanctuary,
most of which is buried in the sand. The
peculiarity of these temples because from
their appearance there must have been
two adjoining each other arc a double en-
trance and a double sanctuary, devoted to
two deities, Savak and Aroeris. The cap-
itals of the columns are finely executed, as
are also the sculptures of the pronaos and
fa9ade. Near this spot ends the limestone
range of hills, and the sandstone continues
to the first cataract, where it changes to
the granite, from which the Nile issues
from out the mountains of Nubia. The
country now assumes a different aspect as
we approach Assouan the palm-groves are
fewer, and the valley a mere strip of land.
Twenty-six miles above Kom-Ombo we
arrive at Assouan, once the boundary of the
Roman empire; it is now the border city
between Upper Egypt and Nubia, but con-
tains nothing of importance to the visitor.
This is the stopping-place and terminus of
the steamer's route. Opposite Assouan lies
the island of Elephantine. It is about one
mile in length, but contains nothing of
much interest : a granite gateway ; temple
of Chnubi, god of inundations ; a mutilated
statue of granite, and an altar to Ammon ;
also, the ruins of the old Nilometer. A
short distance south of the island of Ele-
phantine is the small island of Sehaii: it
contains numerous hieroglyphics.
If the traveler intend going to the second
cataract, he should make an excursion to
the granite quarries from Assouan, which
are a short distance, back from that town ;
if not, he rihould visit them while riding to
PHIL^E.
[EGYPT.]
NUBIA.
the island of Phila>. From here came the
colossal statue of Remeses, the columns at
Rome, at Constantinople, at Paris, and at
Alexandria. At Heliopolis we see the
first of its race, and here, immediately east
of Assouan, we see the last hewn out, but,
like the mammoth ftone at Baalbec, never
removed from its birth-place. It is 100
feet long, and 12 feet square at the base.
After it had been dressed a fissure was
found at the top, for which reason, it is sup-
posed, it never was removed. Notice the
grooves made in it for the purpose of cut-
ting it into single blocks. The color is light
red, sprinkled with green. It is very hard,
and susceptible of the highest polish.
Travelers must not expect to find a
Niagara when they visit the cataract, but
something more like the rapids of the St.
Lawrence a bounding, bubbling, foaming
stream, some three or four feet in depth,
comprising four distinct parts : the first
has a fall of about six feet ; the second, two
feet ; the third, eight feet ; and the fourth,
fifteen. The natives amuse visitors here
by plunging into the river above the first
fall and passing unscathed through them
all. They are very importunate for b.-iek-
sheesh, and swarm around you in all their
naked majesty. If traveling by steamer,
we would advise taking a boat to the cat-
aract, which is a short distance above As-
souan. Make a bargain before you go for
your boat and crew.
Seven miles above Assouan is situated
the small island of Philie, only one quarter
of a mile lonji, crowned with a long line of
majestic temples and colonnades. Its prin-
cipal ruin is that of the Temple of Isis,
commenced by Ptolemy Philadelphus, and
completed by succeeding monarchs. The
whole is modern compared with the old
Egyptian style of architecture. The tem-
ple is very irregular in its ground plan,
following the shape of the island. There
is a double corridor supported by thirty-six
pillars ; notice that many of these were
never finished. The corridor is succeeded
by two immense pyramidal towers, gate-
ways, staircase, and chambers, in a fine
state of preservation. The traveler should
here ascend to the roof and take a bird's-
eye view of the ruins and surronndiii:;-. I n
one of the rooms of the temple may be
seen, on a small scale, a representation of
the dcatli of Osiris ; also his embalmment,
burial, resurrection, and enthronement as
judge of the dead. To the east of the
great temple is a square open building, the
four sides of which are composed of pillars
supporting an architrave. This is the
most perfect building on the island. The
edifice is evidently unfinished ; much of
the sculpturing had been just commenced.
It was here that the Romans signed, in 451
A.D., the articles of peace with the Ethi-
opian Bedouins, who were the last worship-
ers of Isis on the island. Notice, under
the principal entrance of the first pylon,
i the inscription commemmorative of the ad-
vance of the French troops under De-
saix: "Z,'an VI. de, la Republique, le 12
| Messidor, tine Armee Jranyaisf, commandee
par Bonaparte, decendue a Alexandria.
L'armee ayant mis vingtjour apres lesMaim-
louks enfuiteauxPyramides. Desaix, com-
mandant la Ire division les a pourstdvis av
' dela des Cataracts, oil il est arrive le 12
{ Vcntose de Fan VII"
From Assouan to the second cataract the
! distance is 220 miles. The Nile is not now
the Nile of Egypt the two ranges of hills
, inclose the river so closely that there is
little or no cultivation. You now pass
; tombs continually, occupying the position
! of castles on the Rhine ; they are nearly all
J on the west side of the river, if we except
I Derr, the capital of Nubia, Ibreem, and
( Farayg. Throughout the Nile valley now,
i the banks being so high, the water is raised
by means of a sakia or shadoof. The sakia
is a large wheel worked by a buffalo, around
which a number of jars are attached ; the
revolutions of the wheel dip the jars into
the river and empty them into the canal,
whence the water becomes distributed over
the surrounding fields ; and as the natives
use all the grease in the country to grease
their long black hair, you have day and
night the sound of the hum of a swarm of
flies as lazily you float along beneath the
; rays of a tropical sun. The shadoof con-
sists of a pole and bucket worked across a
horizontal bar supported upon two pillars
of wood : it is worked by the hand. The
government levies a tax of 200 piastres on
everj- sakia in operation.
The native-; of NubLi are more ignorant
and more honest than the fellahs of Kgypf
; and possess a more brave and warlike ?\,i;
it; they are also more intemperate than
their more simple neighbors, and not so
943
DABOD.
[EGYPT.]
ABOO-SIMBEI*
strict in regard to the injunctions of the Having passed the temples of Amada,
Prophet. ! Derr, and Ibreem, we arrive at the
The first ruins of any importance after
passing Philse are those of Dabod, on the
right hand or west side of the river as you
ascend. These consist of a well-preserved
temple commenced by the Ethiopian King
Ashat-Amun, and dedicated to the same
gods as the temple of Philse, and the pic-
turesque ruin of the temple of Gertasse.
We then pass the temples of Tafah, also on
the right.
We next arrive at Kalabshee, where are
the ruins of the largest temple in Nubia,
with the single exception of Aboo-Simbel.
It was erected during the reign of Augus-
tus; Caligula, Trajan, and Severus also
added to it, but it was never completed.
Seen from the outside, it has a grand and
imposing appearance ; the interior, howev-
er, is badly mutilated.
A quarter of an hour's distance from the
village is the cavern-temple ofBet-tl-Wal 1 ;/
(the house of the saints), excavated during
the reign of Remeses the Great, and dedi-
cent temples of Aboo-Simbel, the greatest
work of the great Remeses, and by far the
most interesting of all the ruins of Nubia,
and. indeed, with the exception of Thebes,
of all those throughout the Nile valley for
this reason, that almost every other Egyp-
tian temple is more or less in ruins ; these,
from being hewn out of the rock, are in all
their arrangements as perfect now as when
they were left unfinished by Remeses him-
self. There are two temples : the smallest
is dedicated to Hathor, who is represented
under the form of a sacred cow; the facade
is ornamented with six colossal statues of
Remeses and his wife, with their children
at their feet ; the interior is divided into
three principal divisions ; the walls are
decorated with sculpture, but much de-
faced; the entire depth is 84 feet. The
second and larger temple is a short dis-
tance south of the smaller ; the facade is
120 feet wide by 90 high ; it is decorated
witli four colossal statues of Remeses,
cated to Kneph, Amunre, and Anauke. which, although seated, are about 60 feet
The sculptures of the interior, which are high ; the interior is divided into four com-
very fine, record the battles of Remeses partments, with a depth of 385 feet; the
against the Ethiopians. Next come the
cavern-temples of Dendoor and Gorf, which
are hardly worth a visit, and Wadi Sebua,
formerly a temple of considerable impor-
entrance is nearly choked up with sand.
Nearly opposite Aboo-Simbel, at Farayg,
there is a small temple excavated during
the reign of Amenophis III., and higher up
tance, but nearly all now buried in thej the castle of Addeh, in a fine state of pres-
sand. The temple, which is entirely of j crvation. Nine miles farther there are
granite, with the exception of the sanctu- also some ruins, at the village of Farras
ary, which is cut out of the solid rock, was Forty miles above Aboo-Simbel is U'mli
Constructed by Remes es II. There was | //<*{/?, opposite which are some ruins, but
formerly an avenue of sphinxes which led little of sufficient importance to bring trav-
to it, hence its name. This is the last vil- , elers above Aboo-Simbel. The second
lage where the Arabic language is spoken; cataract is still some seven or eight miles
the Nubian now commences.
Twelve miles higher we arrive at Koros-
&o, situated on the eastern bank of the Nile.
This is the first station of the great Nubian
desert, 200 miles to Kartum, and, although
well traveled, is one of the worst roads
across the desert, water being found at one
station only during the entire distance, and
much frequented by awild tribe of Bedouins
which have never yet been quite subdued.
944
higher up; the}' are nearly live miles long,
and, if wishing to see them and the sur-
rounding country to the best advantage,
we would advise the climbing of the cliff
Aloo-Xir, 300 feet high, where a most sin-
gular panorama can be obtained. The
railroad along the banks of the Nile (in
progress to Thebes) is now (1871) finished
tn Minieh, a distance of 151 miles.
THE DESERT.
SUEZ. [THE DESERT.]
WHETHER the traveler intends visiting
Mount -Sinai, where Moses delivered the
Law to the assembled tribes at Israel, or
jii it. we would strongly reci.inmend his
spending a day or two at Suez, and then
passing through the new Suez Canal to
Port Said (where the steamers to the
Holy Land touch). The time from Cairo
to Suez by camel was formerly 30 hours ;
then a direct railroad was constructed,
making the time 4 hours ; that road was
abandoned in 1*70, making a detour, but
passing through numerous populous vil-
lages. From Cairo to Suez tia Benha, 9
hours 30 minutes; l!(i piastres 5 80.
From Cairo to Suez via Zazazig. lo hours ;
116 piastres. From Cairo to Ismailia, 7
hours; 79 piastres 2 75.
Suez is situated at the head of the gulf
of the same name ; the Red Sea dividing
at its northern extremity into the Gulf of
Akaba and Suez. The peninsular region
inclosed between these two gulfs is a rug-
ged mountainous wilderness, and the scene
of the journey of the hosts of Israel ; and
Suez, from the nature of the mountains on
the Egyptian side, must have been the spot
where they crossed.
SUEZ
The town of Suez now contains about
6000 inhabitants ; it has been brought into
prominent notice of late years by the ex-
tensive travel on the overland route. The
orrrlnnd route is now all sea ; the Suez
Canal lias also made it famous. It is
likewise the place of embarkation for the
Mohammedan pilgrims from Egypt and
the countries of Northern Africa on their
way to the holy cities. The sailing is ex-
cellent here, as you can always have a
good breeze blowing; it commences usu-
ally from the land in the morning, and
dies away about fuur or five o'clock in the
afternoon.
There are nearly always four or five large
tir.-t-elass English steamers lying here, but
they can not come within five miles of the
city, there being no channel, and the rise
and fall of the tide so much that any trav-
eler can do as the Israelites did at certain
hours of the day without the water coming
much over his boots. We asked our boat-
man if he knew any thing about the host
of Pharaoh and the Israelites : " Yes, he
knew all about it: it was all a mistake."
It was not the Egyptians who followed the
Israelites, but a "lot of rascally Bedouin
Arabs;'' that Moses knew all about the
tide, and he arrived when it was low water ;
and when the Bedouins were in the gulf,
the tide came up and drowned them ; and
to put the question beyond dispute and
clinch his argument, " Wouldn't the boat-
men have found the chariots when the tide
| went out?"
To visit the "Fountain of Moses (Ain
M<m.i\ hire a boat instead of passing
round the head of the gulf. You can run
down with a fair wind, and land within
two miles of the spot ; walk up, and if you
want a camel-ride, for twenty-five cents
one of the fellahs who reside here on a
small piece of land irrigated by the brack-
ish water will supply you with the luxury.
The sensation of a first camel-ride is very
queer. The animal kneels down to enable
you to mount, and when he commences to
rise, it is with the greatest difficulty you
retain your seat. The shore about here
abounds with numerous handsome shells.
Xe;ir Suez, a little to the north, were thn
remains of the sluices of the ancient Canal
f>f Arxinoe, which connected the Nile with
the Red Sea. It was commenced I
sostris and linished by Ptolemy Pliiladel-
pluis. Subsequent to the timo of the Ro-
mans it, was neglected, and allowed to fill
up with sand. It was reopened by the
Caliph Omar for the purpose of sending
corn to the hoi}' cities of Mecca and Me-
dina. Its course is directly north as far
as the Bitter Lakes, or Shekh Hanaydik,
945
Totras FROM CAIRO.
[THE DESERT.]
TOCRS FROM CAIRO.
thence directly west to the Nile. One
half its distance is the site of the new
French canal, through which j'ou proceed
if going to the Holy Land. If returning
to Europe direct, it will be better to retrace
your steps to Alexandria via Benha, as you
might have to wait some time at Port Said,
a miserable place. Lately American trav-
elers have commenced to make the tour to
the Holy Land via Mount Sinai and Petra,
a long and tedious trip, occupying 210
hours, or about 30 days of actual travel
viz., from Suez to Sinai, 67 hours; from
Sinai to Petra, via Akabah, 76 hours ; from
Petra to Hebron, 60 hours ; and from He-
bron to Jerusalem, 7 hours.
"As guides, take a few Tor-Arabs, who
will provide the camels ; a contract must
be made with them in Cairo. On no ac-
count be persuaded to go first to Suez and
thence by water to Tor, otherwise you will
be obliged to submit to extortionate de-
mands or to turn back. The hire of a
camel to Akaba averages 250 piasters.
The Arabs have to find their own provisions
and food for the camel. Never pay before-
hand. Apply to a sheik, or leader, of
good reputation, who can exercise authori-
ty over his race, for it sometimes happens
that members of the same race are envious
of him who has let his camel, begin quar-
reling on the road, and, under all kinds of
pretenses, place the traveler's luggage on
their own camels. Do not suffer yourself
to be imposed upon if (it seldom occurs
now) suddenly attacked by a troop of hos-
tile Arabs and tribute is demanded from
you, and the Arabs who escort you do not
fight, for the attacking party are in league
with your own, and will afterward divide
the booty with them. Therefore, have no
recourse to arms, pay the sum demanded,
and, on your return to Suez or Cairo, de-
duct it from the wages of these unfaithful
people.
" For the distance between Sinai and El
Akaba an arrangement must be made with
a sheik of the Mezejneh Arabs, and for
that between El Akaba and Hebron with
one of the Hawat chiefs, for safety's sake.
On the 4th of January, 1857, some Ameri-
cans who refused the G, for six p.'i-x/ii-,
demanded by the last mentioned, were fallen
upon by them, and escaped with their lives
by at length sacrificing 100.
' ' Never travel with one race through a
946
tract of desert which is looked upon as the
property of another, unless there be a mu-
tual understanding between them. Water-
skins should be procured at Cairo ; old ones
are preferable, as the new impart an un-
pleasant taste to the water. The best tents
are those with a single pole, likewise to be
had there. A double number of pegs,
warm coverings, and a water-proof under-
cover, to resist the damp rising from the
earth, is indispensable ; wax candles, lamps,
dried apricots, maccaroni, and rice. ( 'liar-
coal is only wanted during the first half of
the journey, afterward abundance of ma-
terial for burning is found in the valleys.
It is advisable to take more coffee and to-
bacco than is sufficient for one's own per-
sonal use, in order occasionally to fill the
cups and the pipes of the escort ; the water-
skins must never lie on the earth, which
often contains salt, but must always be put
in the shebbckeh nets in which the cam-
els carry their burden.
" The tour from Cairo to the monastery
of Sinai is through Suez. Ain Moosa, Wad;
j Sadr, Ain Howarah, Wadi Gurundel, Wadi
Shabejkeh, Sarabut el Kadein, Wadi el
Berk, Wadi e'Shech, and Wadi Solaf, and
is 95 camel miles long.
"The tour bqyond the monastery to El
Akaba is over Wadi el Orfan, Wadi Mur-
nah, Ain el Hudera, Wadi el Sumglii, Ain
Suwejbia, Ain el Wasit, Aboo Suwejrah,
Wadi el Mekubbeleh, Wadi Merak and
I the N.W. corner of the gulf, and is 51 cam-
el miles in length. From El Akabah to
Petra, now Wadi Moosa, an armed escort
is absolutely necessary. From El Akabah
to Hebron it is 72 camel miles ; to Jerusa-
lem, 80. There is less expense incurred,
if not less danger to be apprehended, if, in
visiting the ruins of Petra, the tourist set
out from Syria, and, indeed, from Hebron.
" The quail, which supplied the Israelites
with food during their progress through the
ili'-cTts, is still found, but never in flights.
Manna is also rare ; it is seen in sparkling
drops on the branches and twigs (not on
the leaves) of the turfa. a kind of tamarisk-
tree, from which it oozes out as a conse-
quence of the sting of an insect of the coc-
cos species. It is white, sweet, about the
size of a small pea, and melts in the sun.
It is to be had of all druggists in Cairo.
Ain Howarah is the Marah of the Bible : it
has springs of brackish water. From hera
TOURS FROM CAIRO.
[THE DESERT.]
TOURS FROM CAIRO.
the road runs at ;i short distance from,
and almost parallel with, the sea, to the
' baths of Pharaoh' ( Hammain Faraoon)
a mountain with hot springs, 157 Fahren-
heit, strongly Impregnated with salt and
sulphur. Not far from here the road takes
a turn more inward, dividing into two, the
one of which leads to the left over Sarulmt
el Kadeni, the other to the right over Wadi
Faran. I ut both to Sinai.
" The road to the left passes, near Sar;:-
but el Kadem, an old copper foundery,
where are various Sinaitic inscriptions.
Sarabut el Kadein is a sandstone rock with
a level summit, on which are discovered
numerous ruins and many hieroglyphic
tablets, with the names of Osirtasen I.,
Ramses the Great, Thotmes III., and oth-
ers of the Pharaohs.
"Tho>e Sinaitic inscriptions are still
more frequently found on the other road,
to the right. The rocks on the S. side of
Gebel el Mokattab are more especially
covered with them. They are also on oth-
er parts of the peninsula, and not only on
the old pilgrim roads, but may be followed
into the most desolate ravines. Rude signs,
a foot high, with rough drawings of camels
and goats between them, appear slightly
cut in, and only to be recognized by then-
light color on the dark stone ; they are not
explained, but probably refer to the Amale-
kite pilgrims, who came to the beautiful
vale of Faran and the holy mountain of
Serbal. The first is the largest cultivated
vale of the peninsula, is watered by a brook,
which soon sinks into the sand, and con-
tains many gardens with palms and other
trees. On Serbal, a majestic giant moun-
tain with five peaks, are likewise many of
these inscriptions.
"After passing through long ravines
we reach the plains of Er Raha, surrounded
by rugged walls ; thence, to the south, run
two narrow, deep valleys, which, after a
time, unite and form a large plain called Se-
baieh. The mountain they surround and
separate from the higher neighboring sum-
mit is Horeb ; its S. higher summit, beyond
the larger plain, is Sin-.ti. The Arabs call
the two Gebel Moosa the mount of I
Beneath, in the valley on the K. side, is the
monastery, a fortress-looking building, with
high walls, which from the inside are only
overtopped by a few cypresses. It has no
door, so that he who wishes to go in must
be wound up the open hatchway by a rope
until he reaches a height of 30 feet. Inside
are covered courts of different sizes, partly
covered by vines ; the very old church, in
which is a chapel said to be the place where
God spoke to Moses from the burning bush.
! The church is a basilica, has a donbl* row
of Corinthian pillars, a splendid altar bal-
ustrade, a mosai '-work picture of the cru-
cilixiun. a portrait of its founder, the Em-
: peror Justinian, many silver lamps and
candlesticks, a coflin with the remains of
St. Catharine (found, as tradition says, in
the neighborhood), the silver lid of a sar-
cophagus with the likeness of the Empress
j Anne of Russia, who desired to be buried
, here, etc. This monastery is inclosed by
i gardens, with high walls, in which are
pear, apple, apricot, and pomegranate trees,
and in the adjacent valleys the monks still
have olive groves.
" The monastery is ruled by a superior,
has generally twenty monks, and belongs
to the Greek Church. Mohammed, it is
said in a record now at Constantinople, on
condition that those monks feed the pass-
ing pilgrims, recommended them to the
good-will of his followers.
A short distance from here is the stone
out of which Moses caused water to flow,
and on the summit of Sinai the cleft of the
rock is shown in which he concealed him-
self when the glory of the Lord passed over
him. 'I he view from the mount is of more
importance to us than these doubtful relics.
"A steep path, with occasional steps,
and entering two arches of a door-way,
leads from the monastery to a high plain
behind the mountain, where are a well, a
chapel consecrated to Elias, and a single
cypress. From this plateau, which, to-
ward the N., is overtopped by rugged cliffs,
and falls nearly perpendicularly into the
plain of Er Rahab, is a roundish rock, still
: over 100 feet in height. It is an enormous
granite block, with the ve.-tiges of a Chris-
tian church and a mosque. From this
height, nearly 7<>00 feet above the level of
the sea. we view the fearful, wild, brown
and black mountains, and the yellow sand}-
plains of the desert in the north, the sur-
face of the sea toward Akaba anil Suez, and
the Egyptian chain of mountains emerging
from behind it. and. next, the gloomy, jag-
ged Catharine Mountain to the S.W. To-
ward the S. termination of the peninsula
947
TOURS FROM CAIRO.
[THE DESERT.]
TOURS FROM CAIRO.
the blue sea appears again. Beneath us,
near the foot of the mountain, is the plain
of Sebaieh, somewhat in the form of a thea-
tre, where once the law was given to the
Israelites.
"The whole tract from Sinai to Petal
has nothing of interest hut Akala, a for-
tress with an Egj'ptian garrison, serving as
a magazine for the caravans from Mecca,
which stands on the swamps near the Klan-
ite Gulf, which is so dangerous that no ships
enter it. Here it is supposed, near the
so-called Pharaoh's island on the W. coast,
near the N. end of the gulf was the har-
bor of Eziongeber, whence Solomon sent
ships to Ophir.
"Petra, one of the most splendid ruins
of any city in the Levant, lies in a hollow
below the mountain of Hor, a brook run-
ning down to it. Guided by ' Braun's His-
tory of Art, ' we follow this way through
high oleander hedges, and descry, firstly,
on the right, monuments in the shape of
masses of stone separated from the rock ;
then, on the left, a plain facade, crowned
by a row of four pyramids of an obelisk
character. We proceed farther into the
cleft, which becomes more and more nar-
row, and at length see an arch of a great
gate, of the Roman style, which spans it.
This is succeeded by niches, tablets with
inscriptions, which have suffered from the
atmosphere, and tombs on each side. The
walls of the glen reach to such a height
that the sun can scarcely penetrate. Ivy
hangs down from the ridges, and fig-trees
spread their branches over it. At length
it is light, the glen expands, and the rosy
facade of a high, magnific building hewn
in the opposite rock appears, called by the
people El Kasneh Faraoon, i. e., the treas-
ury of Pharaoh. This is evidently a mon-
ument in the Roman style. We discover
a two-storied temple facade, standing in a
niche above 100 feet high. The rock wall
is .uray, the sculpture in the niche pink. In
the lower part are six Corinthian columns ;
the four middle ones support a rich frontal,
from beneath which the fore-hall opens,
occupying the same breadth, only that the
two centre ones are free where there is a
space behind them ; one of them is broken.
Over the frontal of this lower story is an-
other, likewise overspanned by a frontal,
but in its whole breadth ; this, however, is
not complete, being cut out in the centre,
948
so that on either side a corner of the frontal
rests on two pillars. In the centre is an
open space, the walls of which are also
graced with columns. In this open niche,
above the frontal of the lower story, is a
dome with pillars, on which is an urn, be-
lieved by the people to contain great treas-
ures. The whole is a sepulchre. Passing
through a fine vestibule we enter the in-
terior, which behind and at each side con-
tains three smaller rock chambers, plain and
insignificant, and much lower than the ^rcat
hall, an arrangement calling to mind the
tombs of the Persian kings.
"The cavern, now broader, extends to
the right, between numerous rock cham-
bers and facades, as far as the theatre, like-
wise hewn out of the rock, from the upper-
most steps of which we look down into an-
other deep vale. Here stood the old town.
We find here immense heaps of fragments
and ruins, standing remains of temples,
ruins of triumphal arches, and palaces, all
after the Roman st3^1e. Around are jag-
ged mountain heights, and in the E. and W.
rock-walls several hundred feet high, and
from the tops to the bases broken entrances
to tombs are discerned.
" The grandest monument of the old city
stands at a short distance N. of Petra, and
is called El Dair. Like that of El Kasneh
Faraoon, it contains two stories faced with
pillars, but is much higher and broader;
in the lower part there is neither an open
fore-hall nor frontal, but only a frame-work
between and over the pillars, whic 1 - seems
alternately to recede and protrude, and
curves toward the centre. Above this
again is the dome with pillars, over which
is the urn, which has broken through the
frontal of the upper story, leaving the cor-
ners only supported by pillars. On all
three compartments are Doric triglyphic
cornices perpendicular articulation alter-
nating with round shields a very old Asi-
atic form. It is altogether unfinished ; tlio
capitals of both stories are but rude blocks.
Inside is an altar niche, with a cross on the
hinder Avail ; it is therefore presumed at a
later period to have been a church. On a
rock opposite traces are perceptible of a
very large temple, which stood about 1000
feet above the lower level of the valley.
"The people that inhabited this city
were probably Nabatians who had emigrated
from S.Babylon, a peaceful trading people,
TODRS FIIOM CAIRO.
[THE DESERT.]
TOURS FROM CAIRO
commanding the traffic on the Red Sea,
and in whose city the caravans from Syria
and Palmyra met those of Gaza from Egypt.
Owing to other routes having been taken,
the trade of Fetra seems to have gradually
declined. The Romans had entered into
direct communication from Suez with In-
dia, and the K. gulf of the Red Sea, leading
to Petra, with the caravan way, was no
longer frequented.
" The journey over the W. or Libyan
desert, where the so called Great, Small,
and the Oasis of Jupiter Amman lie, is as
difficult as that of the E. desert. The two
first mentioned are seldom frequented by
Europeans ; it will suffice, therefore, to ob-
serve that the Great Oasis (Wah el Kar-
geh) is most conveniently reached by way
of Assioot ; the small one, on the contrary.
frornBenisooef; and to make either excur-
sion, including two days sojourn, about
three weeks will lie necessary.
" From Cairo as far as Teraneh the tour
may be made by water ; the other part of
the distance to the Oasis on camels. The
stations are :
" The Natron Valley (with tolera-
bly good water) 1 day.
El Magrah, or Wadi el Sumar
(brackish water) 2J days.
El Abbah, or Libah (salt water) 1 day.
El Garah (good water) 3 days.
The city of Shvah (good water). .2 "
9 days.
"Another road through the desert leads
from Alexandria on the sea-coast, firstly to
Baraton, thence S. to Siwah. It was the
way taken by Alexander the Great, and,
taking this route, the journey may be made
in fifteen days.
" The Oasis consists of two parts, the E.,
fertile, and produces quantities of dates :
it forms a valley of about 1 mile in length
and 1 mile in breadth, in the E. part of
which is the before-mentioned city of Siwah.
About an hour's walk E. from here, on a
hill in a boggy neighborhood, is the temple
of the god Amun, called by the Arabs Om
IJejdah (white mother), and near it the
source of the sun, a small pond 80 feet long
and 55 broad, the water of which by night
is warmer than by day, and has 12 degrees
more specific gravity than that of the
Nile.
"The ruins of Om Bejdah are not very
VOL. II. S 2
extensive, but enough remain to denote the
style of building, and many of the sculp-
tures are entire. Among them is the fig-
ure of Amun with the ram's head, nuny
other gods easily recognized, and the walls
are covered with hieroglyphics. Farther
particulars have been given by Minutoli
and Caillaud. The temple was at one time
visited by strangers from such a distance '
that a pillar therein erected was engraven
with a hymn of Pindar's.
"About half an hour's walk from Om
Bejdah, and half a mile from Siwah, is a
hill, called Dar Aboo Berik, in which are
several grottoes, to all appearance ancient
tombs, and higher up are many Greek in-
scriptions.
" Kasr Gashast, E. of Siwah, on the road
to /ejtun, is a ruined temple of the Roman
style, and in Zejtun itself are the remains
of two other temples of a similar build.
Between Zejtun and Garah, at Maun, in a
low morass, is a fourth Roman temple, and
at Garah are many ancient tombs.
"Other antiquities, varying in interest,
are found at Kasr Room, a mile W. from
Siwah, and at Garb Amun, W. of the desert
on the way to the Lake Birket Arashieh,
which last, although having no ruins on its
banks, is religiously regarded by the inhalv
itants of the Oasis, as tradition says that
on the island in its centre are concealed the
crown, sword, and the seal of Solomon, for
which reason strangers are not permitted
to tread it. The chief production of the
desert are dates, which are highly prized.
The inhabitants are hospitable, but suspi-
cious and bigoted Mohammedans ; they
speak Arabic, but at the same time have a
peculiar language. They have their eld-
i ers, a general treasury, supplied by fines
and by the property of those who die with-
out heirs, which is applied to charitable
purposes, repairing of the mosques, hospi-
tality to strangers, etc., and live in con-
stant feuds.
" Siwah is divided into two parts, the
upper and the lower. In the former mar-
ried persons only reside, no bachelor being
suffered ; if, however, he resolves to take a
wife, he returns with her to his father's
house, and builds a second story to it;
again, when the second marries he builds
another story, so that the house is in pro-
portion to the number of sons in a family.
Some of theie houses have a very odd ap.
949
TOURS FROM CAIRO.
[THE DESERT.]
TOURS FROM CAIRO.
pearance. Tha streets are irregular, nar- :
row, and uncommonly dark ; some of them
are arched over with brick-work, above
which are rooms.
"Till the year 1820 the Oasis was inde-
pendent, when it was taken by Mehemed
Ali and united to Egypt. The people, dis-
satisfied at being deprived of their inde-
pendence, have repeatedly risen against
their Turkish ruler ; the attempts, howev-
er, in 1829 and 1835, to regain their free-
dom were easily subdued, as was likewise
the insurrection commenced in 1845.
"Excepting dates, the land produces
nothing for export ; there are no manufac-
tories, unless we admit those of bast bas-
kets, in the making of which the inhab-
itants distinguish themselves. Travelers
to these parts must not omit to provide
themselves with a firman, good letters of
introduction, and safe guides. It is also
highly necessary to speak Arabic.
" Respecting the tour averElArish to Je-
rusalem and Syria, the shortest from Cairo
by land, the following observations are to
be attended to : If the tourist does not pre-
fer procuring camels and articles for the
journey himself, he must make a contract
with the dragoman of a consulate, in which
the dragoman must be bound to provide the
traveler or travelers with good camels, iron
bedsteads, water-proof double tents, and so
many meals a day, with or without wine,
beer, etc., including all expenses and fees,
and to conduct the travelers within a cer-
tain time to a given place Jerusalem,
Damascus, or Beyrut. Days must be
specified for visiting the intermediate
places. Farther, it is better to contract at
first only for the journey to Jerusalem,
where, if there be no reason for dissatisfac-
tion, the agreement may be continued.
Finally, all sums must be paid in piasters.
The general daily expense, avoiding ex-
travagance, was, in 1857, 18s. to 20s., and
the above-named tour takes, reckoning oc-
casional halts, and when no infectious fever
is raging in Egypt (often requiring three
days' quarantine), eighteen days, nine of
which are passed in the desert.
' ' During the tour between El Arish and
Gaza, every European and Copt, according
to an old custom, must pay tribute three
times to the resident Arabs. It is only a
trifle three piasters for each person ; for
this, however, the receivers are answerable
950
for any robbery that may be committed
within their district.
" The first part of the way leads through
gardens and palm-groves to the little city
of El Chanka, distant about three German 1
miles, which once possessed fine buildings.
mosques, and colleges ; it is now sadly fall-
en, and offers nothing worth notice. We
generally halt here for the first night in
our tent. We soon afterward reach a tract
of country in which antiquarians suppose ;
to have found the land of Goslien men-
tioned in the Bible. This was once the
dwelling-place of the children of Israel,
who are said to have taken up their chief
quarters below Heliopolis, near Bubastis,
and the present Belbais ; it is now called
Sharkijeh, and is one of the most fertile
spots in Egypt. The fields are carefully-
cultivated, and the water for this purpose
is conducted as far as the border of the
desert. The second encampment for the
night is usually at Tel Basta, the Bubastis
of the Greeks, the Pibeseth of the Bible.
This, too, was formerly of some importance,
but is now a miserable little place with a
few narrow, dirty streets. Near it are a
few ruins, and fragments of sculpture, per-
haps remains of the temple of Pacht, who
was worshiped here. Here we provide
provisions for the desert journey, which
commences the next morning, and leads
over three different formations of wastes :
the first is a compact, hard soil, mixed with
small stones, and void of vegetation ; the
second is hilly, with scanty plants ; and
the third a deep sandy surface, with hills
of sand blown by the sea winds. The illu-
sion of the Fata Morgana is often seen, but
nowhere is a spring to be found. On the
third day we arrive at a small oasis, in the
middle of which, enlivened by numerous
flights of ducks and storks, lies the little
Lake Yasale. Farther on the landscape
assumes a hilly appearance, and the soil
vields a few shrubs and plants. Again we
pursue our course through deep sand, blown
about in dense clouds by every wind, and
where throughout the desert, in March
even, very cool mornings are succeeded
by burning hot clays. A regular road
through the desert is quite out of the ques-
tion. The only marks showing the route
ire the skeletons of camels, which also
serve to frame the single springs and to
protect them from the sand. Where such
TOURS FROM CAIRO.
[THE DESERT.]
TOURS FROM CAIRO.
are not met with, the Arab who conducts
tilt 1 caravan takes the sun for his compass.
"The .seventh day's journey brings us to
a district where a little grass and even a
few flowers are descried. Here is a walled
well near the tombs of two Moslomite
saints, and the road leading to Sulahieh.
The next day we pass over vide natron
plains ; soon afterward the sea appears in
the horizon. We are now in the land
(once) of the Amalekites.
"On the following evening we view the
village of l-'.l Ar'tsh, near which the monot-
onous character of the landscape changes,
and presents immense mounds of drifted
sand. Near the village is a stone frontier
fort, under the walls of which we generally
pitch our tent and have our passport vise'd.
At a short distance flows the Brook of
Kgypt. synoiiymal to Sihor. designated in
Genesis as the boundary of the land prom-
ised to the generation of Abraham.
" The next day produces another change
of scene wide extent of meadow-land, on
which herds of camels and flocks of brown
shc.'ji aro grazing. We also discover signs
of cultivation in the plowed fields. At
length, about a mile from El Arisb, we ar-
rive at the frontiers of Syria, which are
formed by a chain of small hills. At the
guard-house we give up our passport, and
ride into the land of the Philistines. A
few hours later we pass the tomb of Shekh
Aboo Zunid, near which are two pillars
erected by Mehemed Ali, representing the
boundary mark bcticeen Africa and Asia.
"Thence to Gaza is a hard journey of two
days, the road leading along the coast, the
sea not being visible, owing to the interven-
ing chain of hills. The first Syrian village
is Khan Yumas. In 1856 travelers were
here received by Turkish soldiers, and es-
corted a four hours' walk to the quarantine.
This is a stone building surrounded by a
high wall outside is a morass ; inside is
very dirty, and infested with vermin of
every description in which travelers are
obliged to pass, according to the law, five
days, but. as those of arrival and departure
are reckoned, in reality but three days, be-
fore they can proceed on their journey.
From Gaza, which is agreeably situ-
ated among palm groves, olive-gardens,
and cactus shrubs, and which contains a
good bazar and about 15,000 inhabitants,
we proceed as far as the road is safe to
Hebron. At first the landscape is pleasing,
then monotonous meadow land, and, lastly,
here and there very rugged hills.
" During this journey we pass the little
towns of Hurejr. I'm Lachis, Ajlan, Es Su-
karijeh,and Bejt Ibrin.in which are mounds
of ruins, considered by Hobinson to be the
remains of the city of Eleutheropolis. We
ride in two hours to Idhna, whence in ten
hours we arrive at Hebron, situated in a
deep valley, surrounded by picturesque
mountain walls.
"At a distance the city, although the
walls no longer stand, resembles a fortress
of the Middle Ages, the houses being built
on terraces one over the other, and mostly
in a turret form, with large arched gate-
ways and massive walls. The interior is
dirty and dark, and its commerce insignifi-
cant. It contains 10,000 inhabitants;
their principal employment is in the culti-
vation of fruit and the vine ; there are also
manufactories of water-skins, glass, etc.
These people are thought to be fanatic ene-
mies to Europeans, a supposition not con-
| firmed by later travelers, t. e., A. Ziegler.
"Hebron embraces many recollections
j connected with holy writ.
"The mosque El Haram, still standing
on the precipice of a mountain, which no
Christian is allowed to ascend, is said to be
the tomb of the three patriarchs of the Jews,
and also that of Joseph. On one of the two
reservoirs built of hewn stone it is also
averred that David hung up the feet and
hands of the murderers of Ishbosheth. It is
not our province to dispute the truth of
these assertions. About an hour's walk
from Hebron, on the way to Jerusalem, is
the 'house of Abraham.' With as little
certainty can we pronounce this ruin to oc-
cupy the site where the patriarch pitched
his tent and served the angel with roast
veal, and that the splendid Sindian oak,
whose trunk is split into three and stands
X.W., is the same under which the 'fiiend
of God,' El Khulin, reposed. The Rab-
binic fable, according to which Adam was
created here from a lump of earth, Abel
was slain by Cain, etc., need merely l;e
mentioned.
"From Hebron to Jerusalem is ei^ht
camel miles, and Bethlehem is touched at
on the way. Of this and other places of
Palestine we shall give information. I
: conclusion, the way here mentioned f-
951
TOURS FROM CAIRO.
[THE DESERT.]
TOURS FROM CAIRO.
' ls hardly ever taken or rarely chosen
by Europeans, being neither the shortest
nor the cheapest. The tour may be made
by the steamers of the Austrian Lloyds or
the Messageries Maritimes, running from
Alexandria to Jaffa in 36 or 40 hours, or
Port Said to Jaffa in half that time. There
is also a Russian line, which sails weekly
from Port Said, and from Alexandria to
Jaffa, thence to Jerusalem in a day and a
half by horse and diligence. The railroad
from Suez to Port Said, along the banks of
the canal, is finished as far as Ismailia, a
distance of 56 miles.
Although in our " Syria and Palestine"
we advise travelers not to engage a drago-
952
man until they arrive at Jerusalem, still
there may be some exceptions ; for in-
stance, they may be late in the season, or
they may find an exceptional good man
who will not commence his charge until
their arrival at Jaffa, and who will make
some deduction if they remain an unusual
long time in Jerusalem. In case they are
not able to land at Jaffa on account of bois-
terous weather, and are obliged to proceed
to Beirout, then he should not commence
his charge until they are ready to leave
Beirout, as the hotel would only be $3 per
day, and th* dragoman from $6 to $10 ^er
day.
PALESTINE.
Harper's Hand Book .
SYRIA AND PALESTINE.
HISTORY.
[SYRIA AND PALESTINE.]
HISTORY.
I'KOM the earliest ages of authentic his-
tory, Palestine (with whose ancient and sa-
cred history every reader is familiar) has
been the object of curiosity at once ardent
and enlightened. Since the time that
Abraham crossed the Euphrates (3780
years ago) a solitary traveler, down to the
recent massacres in that unhappy country,
Syria has been looked upon with greater
attention, and described with greater ac-
curacy and minuteness, than any other
portions of the ancient world. There are
authors of reputation who state that they
have read over tico hundred <////'< r<-nt works,
and still knew nothing about it until they
had seen it. It would be at variance with
the original design of this work to give a
description of the natural feelings of the
traveler, as experienced by the author in
seeing the land of the Patriarchs for the
first time, when there are so many descrip-
tions to which he can refer; he will only
say here that for many years it had been
his great desire to see the land where lived
Abraham, Isaac, and Joseph; to see the
city conquered by David and enriched by
Solomon; to see the spot on which our
Savior gave up the ghost to redeem man-
kind, and where, on the same spot, the
godlike Godfrey de Bouillon, 1088 years
later, planted the standard of the Cross,
and rescued the Holy City from Moham-
medan rule after a possession of 460
years.
Although his first feelings were those
of unbounded joy. they soon were changed
to holy sorrow, as on every side the evi-
dence was conclusive that He indeed " had
risen," when throughout the whole coun-
try there is hardly a single symptom of ei-
ther commerce, comfort, or happiness.
On the eastern shore of the Mediterra-
nean there is a long strip of country, bound-
ed on the west by the River Jordan, and
nowhere exceeding fifty miles in in rx-
tremest breadth. This is the ancient Ca-
naan, or Palestine, properly so called, from
the name of the Philistines, who were ex-
pelled thence by the tribes of Israel.
Three of those tribes, however those of
Reuben, Gad, andManasseh had territory
assigned to them east of the Jordan. That
of Reuben immediately east of the Dead
Sea, Gad north of that, Manasseh north of
that, immediately east of the Sea of Gali-
lee, and from these three tribes are sprung
the present wild and wandering tribes of
Bedouins.
The length of Palestine from Dan to
Beersheba is about 180 miles. In Pales-
tine, as in Greece, every traveler is struck
with the smallness of the territory ; but,
like that once powerful country, events
have made it large ; and limited as was its
territory, it is quite certain that its fertility
\\ as very great so actually marvelous that
it supported not merely in comfort, but in
good opulence, a population infinitely more
numerous than any other territory of like
extent ever supported either in ancient or
in modern times. Even in the times of
Moses the fighting men numbered above
half a million, which, according to the
usual manner of estimating the whole
population by the number of its fighting
men, would give over 2,500,000 souls. We
have also the authority of Josephus, who
states that in the time of Titus the little
province of Galilee alone furnished 100,000
fighting men. Of the present population
there is great diversity of opinion. M'Cul-
loch, quoting from Bowring's Report of
Syria, says it contains 175,000 Jews, and
Mr. Porter, a resident of Damascus for five
years, gives the number of native Jews of
Syria at 15,000 ; and those who have come
from every country on the globe to visit
the graves of their fathers and lay their
dust by their side, and who are residents
of the four holy cities of Jerusalem, He-
bron, Tiberias, and Safet, amount in all to
9000, making a total of 24,000 instead of
175,000!* It is very hard to get at the
exact population, and writers sometimes
make very random guesses. The present
population, as nearly as it is possible to
obtain information, is about 518,000, di-
vided into 400,000 Mohammedans (Arabs),
50,000 Maronites (or Latins), 20,000 Dru *.
30,000 Greek Christians, 20,000 Syrians,
10,000 Jews, and 10,000 Turks. The last
* According to the Almanac de Gotha, pub-
lished for 1S61, the whole Jewish population of
Turkey in Asia u only 80,000.
953
HISTORY.
[STRIA AND PALESTINE.]
HlSTOBY.
are the rulers of the country, every per-
son occupying any government position
in Syria being a Turk.
The following works may be read with
great interest on Syria and Palestine :
Prime's " Tent-life in the Holy Land ;"
Thompson's ''The Land and the Book;"
Robinson's " Researches ;" Burckhardt's
"Travels in Syria;" and Murray's ' Hand-
book of Sj'ria and Palestine." AVo have
made copious extracts of descriptions from
Prof. Hughes' "Treasury of Geography,"
a work of unusual accuracy, which our own
vision has confirmed.
Although anciently the possessions of
the Israelites were confined within com-
paratively narrow limits, it must be borne
in mind that those limits were frequently
and greatly extended by war and conquest.
In the time of Solomon, for instance, the
extent of his kingdom was very great, in-
cluding a great portion of Syria it must
be rememtared Palestine, or the Holy
Land, is only a portion of the territory of
Syria and stretched in the northeasterly
direction as far as the River Euphrates.
Of the vastness of the wealth of the
Jews in the time of Solomon no more
striking evidence can bo required than is
afforded by the details which are given
in the First Book of Kings of the enor-
mous outlay bestowed by him iipon the
Temple and other buildings.
In the year 721 the kingdom of Israel
was overrun by the Assyrians, and Judah
in its turn was conquered by Nebuchad-
nezzar. The Chaldeans, the Medes, and
Persians ruled over this once fertile and
populous expanse of country until they
were in turn invaded and conquered by
Alexander the Great. In the division
of the vast territories which that brilliant
conqueror brought under his single rule,
Judah fell under the dominion of the
kings of Syria, and remained subject to
the Syrians or Egyptians until T30 B.C.,
when John Hyrcanus successfully revolt-
ed against the Syrians, and assumed the
crown of king and pontiff alike. This
double power, royal and ecclesiastical, re-
mained in the Asmonean dynasty until
Antony gave the kingdom to Herod the
Great, a prince of an Idumean family.
To a people so intensely national as the
Jews, this subjection to a foreign ruler
who differed so widely from them in relig-
954
ion, and who despised them, and was de-
tested by them in return, could not but be
irksome to them. The consequence was,
they were continually revolting.
But the Roman power was too vast, and
its policy too inflexible to be successfully
; resisted by a people so depressed as the
: Jewish people even then were.
Irritated by frequent revolts of subjects
whom they so much despised, the Romans
at length, under Vespasian, determined tc
inflict upon the Jews a chastisement so
severe as iinally to crush them : and after
a long and terrible siege, in which it is
said by Josephus no fewer than 1,100,000
were killed, and 100,000 taken prisoners,
it was taken by Vespasian's son Titus in
I the year 71 A.D. The Temple and all
the principal edifices were destroyed, and
the whole city so completely desolated,
that from that period until the time of the
Emperor Hadrian it was inhabited only by
a mere handful of the poorest Jews. Ha-
drian restored many of its buildings, plant-
ed a colony there, and erected temples to
Venus and Jupiter.
The country was next overrun by the
Saracens under Omar in the year 636, and
remained subject to them for 400 years.
It then fell into the hands of the Turks,
who proved still more oppressive masters
than any of their predecessors.
The description of the wrongs inflicted
on both Jew and Christian given by pil-
grims on their return aroused a feeling
of indignation alike in the priesthood and
in the chivalry of Europe, and led to the
well-known Crusades, or Holy Wars, the
result of which, at the close of the llth
century, was the taking of Jerusalem by
the Crusaders, and the forming of the Lat-
in kingdom under Godfrey de Bouillon
and his successors. Circumscribed in ex-
tent, the Latin kingdom of Jerusalem was
never for an instant safe from -the attacks
of the fierce warriors of the Crescent ; and
the whole term of its existence (from 1099
to 1187) may be said to be one long alter-
nation of hollow and brief truce, and of
sanguinary and obstinate battle between
the Christian and the Saracen.
The accomplished, and, in many partic-
ulars, chivalric and admirable Saladin, at
length conquered Judea in 1187; and the
various disturbances and changes of which
it was the scene after the breaking up of
MONEY.
[SYRIA AND PALESTINE.]
JAFFA.
his kingdom, rendered it the easy and in-
evitable prey of the Turkish empire, by
which it was absorbed soon after the com-
mencement of tho fourteenth century.
An empire so large and so little compact-
ed as that of Turkey must of necessity
have many actual sovereigns, even though
they all lie nominally subject to one. Ac-
cordingly, though the whole Turkish em-
pin- is nominally and formally subject to
the sultan, the pachalies into which it is
divided are in reality, to a very consider-
able extent, independent. The late M
hemet All, the energetic ruler of Egypt
during a long term of years, was virtually
independent of Turkish power, and had
extended his sway over the whole of Syria,
until the intervention of the governments
of western Europe compelled its restora- 1
tion to the authority of the sultan in 1840.
Syria is divided into four pachalics, the
rulers of whom are viceroys ; they are call-
ed Aleppo, Damascus, Tripoli, and Acre. |
Jerusalem is under the pachalic of Damas-
cus, the pacha residing in the latter city
(Moamer Pacha).
)fon<*y. Accounts are kept in Syria in
piastres and paras. 40 paras = 1 piastre
5 cents U. S. currency. Be particular in
carrying plenty of the smallest coin of the
country, paras, which are about the size
of a large fish-scale. There is a coin call-
ed here the Icamtiry, about the size of the
old smooth 12 cent pieces, and worth
about two cents, one piece of which tells
immensely in the way of backsheesh. The
gold coins of the country are lira = 108 pi-
astres and 20 paras, halves of the same ;
ghazeh^ol piastres and 10 paras, halves
of the same. Silver coins are mejideh = 22
piastres, halves and quarters of the same.
Copper or mixed metal are beshlik="> pias-
tres, halves of the same, kamary and paras.
We should advise not taking a drago-
man from Egypt nor from Jaffa only as
far as Jerusalem, where you will have
time to select a good one. The customary
prices for the trip are from $C> to $10 per
day for each traveler ; this includes guides,
muleteer-, horses, mules, camp fixtures,
provisions, bttettkettk, and every thing req-
uisite. Many persons travel without a
tent, the dragoman always being able in
each village to find a very fair place to
cook and sleep, the Mill of Mettdhdh alone
excepted. Some prefer it, especially in
the "rainy season," because the fleas can
lie shaken off, but the fever not often. The
author slept in the Mill of Melhihah one
night in company with half a dozen horses,
ditto mules, ditto muleteers, two millstones
turning with a frightful racket within two
inches of his feet, a lot of Bedouin Arabs
waiting for their grist, whose sinister faces
told you that any one of them would not
hesitate to cut your throat for a dollar ; all
this with the water plunging and foaming
underneath the floor, and visible through
interstices in the logs with which it was
composed. On the same night his poor
ill-fated friend Osbourne, of Philadelphia,
encamped at the same place and caught
the Syrian fever, which terminated in his
death four weeks later at Cairo.
Jajfa, the ancient Joppa, contains a pop-
ulation of 5000, of which 10CO are Chris-
tians. It rises in the form of an amphi-
theatre, and is surmounted on the top by
a round castle. The port, which is defended
by two batteries, is so choked up with sand
that none but small vessels can approach the
shore ; in boisterous weather the steamers
can not land the passengers. The houses
are principally built of stone; the streets
are narrow, dirty, and badly paved. The
town, however, looks well at a distance,
surrounded as it is by beautiful orchards
of oranges and lemons, trees, and tall wav-
ing cypresses. There are no "sights" to
be seen in Jaffa, although of great histori-
cal interest. Its port is considered the
oldest in the world. The tradition here is,
that it was in this port where Noah built
his ark ; and Pliny mentions that in his
time the marks of the chain were visible
that l.ound Andromeda to the rock, and
the actual skeleton of the sea-monster to
which she was exposed was for a long time
exhibited at Rome ! It was a port of im-
portance in the time of Solomon; and here
Hiram, king of Tyre, brought the cedars
of Lebanon for the building of the Temple.
The house of " Simon the Tanner" is
shown where Peter, while praying on the
house-top, had the vision, and heard the
voice commanding him -'to rise, kill, and
eat." It was from Jaffa Jonah embarked;
and here, according to the X. Testament, Pe-
ter recalled TaMtha to life. It was fortified
by Louis 1 X. of I 'ranee in the 13th century.
In 1799 Jarta was taken by Napoleon
after an obstinate and murderous siege.
955
JAFFA.
[SYRIA AND PALESTINE.]
JERUSALEM
Porter, in his " Hand-book of Syria and
Palestine," says that 4000 Turkish soldiers
were inhumanly butchered by the order of
Napoleon after they had capitulated with
the express understanding that their lives
should be spared; while M'Culloch, al-
though condemning the act, says it was
justifiable according to the laws of war,
and that the number was but 1200. Porter
seems particularly savage at the Emperor.
Hear what he says : " In one of the con-
vents, used as a military hospital for the
French troops, Napoleon committed an act
which is not only a lasting disgrace to the
man, but a dark stain on the history of a
civilized nation, that had stains enough
without. Just before his retreat across
the Desert to Egypt, Napoleon visited the
plague hospital in this house, and invited
such of the suffering soldiers as had suffi-
cient strength to get into the litters pre-
pared for their use. He walked through the
rooms, affecting a careless air. striking his
boot with his riding-whip, in order to remove
the apprehensions in regard to the con-
tagious nature of the malady. After all
capable of removal had been placed on their
litters, there was still a large number
from four to five hundred left behind.
What was to be done with them ? A humane
man would have made some provision for
their safety at all hazards ; a reckless man
would have left them to their fate ; but
Napoleon ordered them to be. poisoned ! It
must be recorded to the honor of the chief
of his medical staff that, when the proposal
was made to him, he proudly replied, ' My
vocation is to prolong life, not to extinguish
it.' Others were found, however, ready
even to murder at a tyrant's command.
Great allowance must be made for the
bitter feeling entertained by all English
writers against the first Emperor.
The time from Jaffa to Jerusalem is
twelve hours, or thirty-six miles, if by
horseback. There is a diligence now
running. The ordinary plan is to start
from Jaffa in the afternoon, and rest for
the night at Ramleh, in the Latin con-
vent founded by William the Good, of
Burgundy. This occupies three hours,
and, by starting early the following morn-
ing, you arrive at Jerusalem in the even-
ing.
On the way to Ramleh you pass Lydda
or /xwd, where may be seen the ruins of
956
the Church of St. George, so often alluded
to in the writings of the Crusaders. This
building was erected in the 12th century,
and afterward overthrown by Saladin. A
part of the walls and arches remain, over-
grown with creepers, and present a very
picturesque appearance, hardly in keeping
with the squalid Arab village in which they
stand.
Jtamleh, the next place of interest, was
conquered by the Crusaders in 1009. but
the Saracens regained possession under Sal-
adin in 1187. Shortly afterward it fell
into the hands of Richard Cojur de Lion,
and remained in the possession of the Chris-
tians until 1266. Modern Ramleh contains
about 2000 inhabitants. It has, in addi-
tion to the Convent of the Latins, one be-
longing to the Greeks, and one to the Ar-
menians. There are also two handsome
Turkish mosques, one of which contains a
fine white marble tomb, with gilt inscrip-
tions, which incloses the remains of Ayoub
Bey, a Mameluke who fled from Egypt
when the French took possession of that
country.
Between Ramleh and Jerusalem you
pass through the village of Abu Gaush, re-
nowned as the residence of a bandit of that
name, who twenty years ago spread ter-
ror through the surrounding country. The
ancient name of the village is Kirgat-Jea-
rhn. where the ark of God remained until
taken by David to Jerusalem.
Four or five miles farther on certain
writers place the village of Emmaiis, to-
ward which the two disciples were walking
when they met the Lord. For a lengthy
description of the country through which
yon pass from Jaffa to Jerusalem, see Dr.
Richardson's works.
JERUSALEM.
We now come in sight of the Holy City.
An Italian poet describes the effect pro-
duced upon the Christian army in the fol-
lowing beautiful lines :
" Now from the fiolden east the zephyrs born,
Proclaimed with balmy gales the approach of
morn;
And fair Aurora decked her radiant head
With roses cropped from Eden's flowery bed ;
When from the sounding camp was heard afar
The noise of troops preparing for the war ;
J E R I
Harpe*
A L E M
x . .-, .s,i,,,
.*
r 7*o/
^PO.*.
Silua* <?"
i Book
JERUSALEM.
[SYRIA AND PALESTINE.]
\ I. KM.
To this succeed tho trumpets' loud alarm*,
And rouse, with shriller notes, the host to arms.
" With holy zeal their swelling hearts abound,
And their winged footsteps scarcely touch the
ground.
Wflen n<nv tho sim a-eond* the ethereal way,
And strikes the dunty field with warmer ray,
Behold, Jerusalem in pr.>.-|><-et lies!
H-h.'U.-Ienisalem salutes their
. : MiiKiies repeat the name,
&Bd b*U' Jerusalem with loud acclaim.
At first, transported with the pleasing sight,
Each Christian bosom glowed with full delight ;
But deep contrition soon their joy suppressed,
And holy sorrow saddened every breast ;
Scarce dare their eyes the city walls survey.
Where, clothed in "flesh, their dear Kedeem3r
lay,
Whose sacred earth did once their Lord in-
close,
And where triumphant from the grave he rose !
" Each flattering tongue imperfect speech sup-
plies,
Each laboring bosom heaves with frequent
signs,
Kach took the example as their chieftains led,
With nuked feet the hallowed soil they tread ;
Kach throws his martial ornaments aside,
The crested helmets with their pkimy pride ;
To humble thoughts their lofty hearts they
bead,
And down their cheeks the pious tears de-
scend."
Much depends on which side the city is
approached for the effect it may have on
the beholder for the first time. If coming
from Damascus, the sight in the distance
is very grand : such, however, is the case
with nearly all Turkish towns, but the in-
terior soon dispels the romance. If enter-
ed from the Jaffa Road, the view is far in-
ferior ; if from the Bethlehem side, the ef-
fect is still different ; this accounts for the
opposing descriptions given of it by differ-
ent authors. Then the influence of the
weather, the season of the year, and even
the time of the day, will give different im-
pressions to different travelers.
The author, as before stated, was obliged
to go to Beyrout, being unable to land at
Jaffa, owing to the boisterous weather,
consequently visited Baalbec and Dumns-
cus first, and entered from that side ; his
impression, while a ! >out three miles distant,
agrees with Dr. Clark, who says: "We
had not been prepared for tho grandeur of
the spoi-tae 1 ...' which tho city alone present-
ed. Instead of a wretched and ruined
tow", by some described as tho desolated
remnant of Jerusalem, we behold, as it
were, a flourishing and stately metropolis,
presenting a magnificent assemblage of
domes, towers and palaces, churches and
monasteries, all of which, glittering in the
sun's rays, shone with inconceivable splen-
dor. As we drew nearer, our whole atten-
tion was engrossed by its noble and inter-
csting apjiearane . The lofty bills sur-
rounding it gave the city an appearance of
grandeur less than it really lias.
On the other hand, he (the author) agrees
with the celabrated writer, Sir Frederick
Henniker, after he entered the city, who
says, " Jerusalem is called, even by the
Mohammedans, ' the Blessed City.' The
streets of it are narrow and deserted ; the
houses dirty and ragged; the shops few and
forsaken ; and throughout the whole there
is not one symptom of either commerce,
comfort, or happiness. Is this the city that
men call the Perfection of Beauty, the Joy
of the whole earth? The town, which
appears to me not worth possession, even
without the trouble of conquest, is walled
entirely round, is about a mile in length
and half a mile in width, so that its cir-
cumference may be estimated at three
rnles. In three quarters of an hour I per-
formed the circuit. It would be difficult
to conceive how it ever could have been
larger than it now is ; for, independent of
the four ravines, the four outsides of the
city are marked by the brook of Siloam,
by a burial-place at either end, and by the
hill of Calvary, and the hill of Calvary is
now within the town, so that it was for-
merly smaller than it is at present. The
best view of it is from the Mount of Ol-
ives. It commands the best shape, and
nearly every particular portion, namely,
the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, the Ar-
menian convent, the Mosque of Omar, St.
, Stephen's Gate, the round-topped houses,
and the barren vacancies of the city. The
Mosque of Omar is the St. Peter's of Tur-
key. The building itself has a light, pa-
goda appearance ; the garden in which it
stands occupies a considerable part of the
city, and, contrasted with the surrounding
desert, is beautiful, but it is forbidden
ground ; and Jew or Christian entering
within its precinct* must, if discovered,
forfeit either his religion or his life."
Here are the two extremes. We will
now quote from Stanley's "Sinai and Pal-
estine," which, according to the author's
idea, comes nearer the truth than any oth*
i er work he has read on the subject.
957
JERUSALEM.
[SYRIA AND PALESTINE.]
JERUSALEM.
"Jerusalem is one of the few places of
which the first impression is not the best.
No doubt the first sight the first moment
when, from the ridge of the hills which di-
vides the Valley of Rephaim from the Val-
ley of Bethlehem, one sees the white line
crowning the horizon, and knows that it is
Jerusalem, is a moment never to be forgot-
ten. But there is nothing in the view it-
self to excite your feelings, nor is there
even when the Mount of Olives heaves in
sight, nor when 'the horse's hoofs ring on
the stones of the streets of Jerusalem,' nor
is there in the surrounding outline of hills
on the distant horizon.
"Nebi-Samuel is indeed a high and dis-
tinguished point, and Ramah and Gibeah
both stand out; but they and all of the
rest, in some degree, partake of that fea-
tureless character which belongs to all the
hills of Judca.
" In one respect, no one need quarrel
with his first aspect of Jerusalem. So far
as localities have any concern with relig-
ion, it is well to feel that Christianity, even
in its first origin, was nurtured in no ro-
mantic scenery ; that the discourses in the
walks to and from Bethany, and, in ear-
lier times, the prophecies of David and
Isaiah, were not, as in Greece, the off-
springs of oracular cliffs and grottoes, but
the simple outpourings of souls which
thought of nothing but God and man. It
is not, however, inconsistent to add that,
though not romantic though, at first
sight, bare and prosaic in the extreme I
there does at last gow up about Jerusa- |
lem a beauty as poetical as that which i
hangs over Athens and Rome. First, it
is in the highest degree venerable. Mod-
ern houses, it is true, there are ; the inte-
rior of the streets are modern. The old
city itself (and I felt a constant satisfac-
tion in the thought) lies buried twenty,
thirty, forty feet below those wretched j
shops and receptacles for Anglo-Oriental j
conveniences. But still, as you look at
it from any commanding point within or
without the walls, you are struck by the
gray ruinous masses of which it is made
up. It is the ruin, in fact, of the old Je-
rusalem on which you look ; the stones,
the columns, the very soil on which you
tread is the accumulation of nearly 3000
years ; and as it is with the city, so it is
with the country round it. There is, as I
968
have said, no heauty of form or outline, but
there is nothing to disturb the thought of
the hoary age of those ancient hills ; and
the interest of the past, even to the hard-
est mind, will, in spite of themselves, in-
vest them with a glory of their own. . . .
" There is one approach to Jerusalem
which is really grand, namely, from Jeri-
cho and Bethany. It is thn approach by
which the army of Poinpey advanced the
first European army that every confronted
it and it is the approach of ihc triumphal
entry of the Gospels. Probably the lirst
impression of every one coming from the
north, west, and the south may be summed
up in the expression used by one of the
modern travelers, ' I am strangely affect-
ed, but greatly disappointed.' But no hu-
man being could be disappointed who first
saw Jerusalem from the east. The beautv
consists in this, that you then burst at once
on the. two great ravines which cut the
city off from the surrounding table-land,
and that then, and then only, you have a
complete view of the Mosque of Omar.
The other buildings of Jerusalem which
emerge from the mass of gray ruin and
white stones are few, and for the most part
unattractive. The white mass of the Ar-
menian Convent on the south, and the
dome of the Mosque of David the Castle
and Herod's tower on the southwest cor-
ner the two domes, Mack and white, which
surmount the Holy Sepulchre and the Ba-
silica of Constantine the green corn-field
which covers the ruins of the Knights of
St. John the long yellow mass of the Lat-
in Convent at the northwest corner, and
the gray tower of the Mosque of the Der-
vishes on the traditional site of the palace
ef Herod Antipas in the northeast corner
these are the only objects which break
from various points the sloping or level
lines of the city of the Crusaders and Sara-
cens. But none of these is enough to ele-
vate its character. What, however, these
fail to effect is in one instance effected by
the Mosque of Omar. From whatever
point that graceful dome, with its beautiful
precinct, emerges to view, it at once digni-
fies the whole city. And when from Oli-
vet, or from the governor's house, or from
the northeast wall, you see the platform
on which it stands, it is a scene hardly to
be surpassed a dome graceful as that of
St. Peter's, though of course on a far small
JERUSALEM.
[SYRIA AND PALESTINE.]
JERUSALEM.
er scale, rising from an elaborately-finish-
ed circular edifice.
" This edifice, raised on a square marble
platform, rising on the highest side of a
green slope, which descends from it north,
south, and cast, to the walls surrounding
the whole inclosure platform and inclo-
snre diversified by lesser domes and foun-
tains, by cypresses and olives, and plains,
and palms the whole as secluded and
quiet as the interior of some college or
Cathedral garden, only enlivened by the
white figures of veiled women stealing like
ghosts up and down the green slope, or by
the turbaned heads bowed low in the va-
rious niches for prayer this is the Mosque
of Omar: Haram es-Sherif, 'the noble
sanctuary,' the second most sacred spot
in the Mohammedan world that is, next
after Mecca ; the second most beautiful
mosque that is, next after Cordova. . . .
I, for one, felt almost disposed to console
myself for the exclusion by the additional
interest which the sight derives from the
knowledge that no European foot, except
by stealth or favor, had ever trodden with-
in these precincts since the Crusaders were
driven out, and that their deep seclusion
was as real as it appeared. It needed no
sight of the daggers of the black Dervishes
who stand at the gates to tell you that
the mosque was undisturbed and inviola-
bly sacred.
" The Mussulman religion acknowledges
hut two temples those, namely, of Mecca
and Jerusalem : both called El Harem ;
both formerly prohibited to Christians,
Jews, and even.- other person who is not a
believer in the Prophet. The mosques, on
the other hand, are considered merely as
places of meeting for certain acts of wor-
ship, and are not held so especially conse-
crated as to demand the total exclusion of
all who do not profess the true faith. En-
trance into them is not denied to the tin-
believer by any statute of the Mohamme-
dan law. and hence it is not uncommon
for Christians at Constantinople to receive
from the government a written order to
vi^it even the Mosque of St. Sophia. For-
merly the sultan himself could not grant
permission to an inlidel either to pass into
the territory of Mecca, or to enter the sa-
cred edifice of Jerusalem. A firman grant-
ing such a privilege would be regarded as
a most horrid sacrilege ; it would not be
respected by the people ; and the favored
object would inevitably become the victim
of his own imprudent boldness."
The Haram cch-Cfierif, or Sfosque of
Omar, which we entered December 29.
959
JERUSALEM
[SYRIA AND PALESTINE.]
JERUSALEM.
1859, is situated on the foundation-walls
of Solomon's Temple. It has been, since
the time of David, considered the most sa-
cred ground in Jerusalem. Here the foun-
dation-walls of Solomon's Tern pie were laid
over 1000 years before Christ ; here we !
stand on the threshing-floor for which Da- j
vid gave the fifty shekels of silver; here is j
the Holy of Holies, Mount Moriah ! The j
whole inclosure is 1500 feet long by 1000 !
broad, in the centre of which is the rock
Es-Sukhrah. On first entering we found
ourselves on a vast platform, planted with j
cypress and palm-trees, and surrounded by
a high wall. In the centre is the mosque,
or Konbet es-Sukrah, the cupola of the
rock, ebvatad on another rectangular plat-
form, with steps on all sides to enter.
Around this second platform are several
little chapels or oratories surmounted by
cupolas. Before entering the mosque shoes
must be replaced by slippers, or the feet in
some way covered, so as not to profane the
holy ground. The Moslems generally en-
ter in stocking-feet. The building is a
regular octagon, about 60 feet each side,
supporting a beautiful dome. It is entered
by four spacious doors, which project from
the building, and rise considerably on the
wall. The sides are all beautifully pan-
eled, square and octagonal alternating ;
the materials marble, white and blue.
Around the first story there are seven ele-
gant windows on each side of the octagon,
except where the entrances interfere ; on
that side there are only six.
The interior is most magnificent. In
the centre lies a large irregular stone
nearly 50 feet in diameter, surrounded by
a beautiful iron railing. Over the whole
is suspended a canopy of various-colored
silks, but so covered with dust it was im-
possible to define the color. To this stone
this gorgeous temple owes its existence.
It rises about five feet above the marble
floor, and the floor is about twelve feet
above the level of the inclosure. It is in
itself the highest top of Mount Moriah.
Before the rule of the Mohammedan the
Christian regarded it as the Holy of Holies.
By the Mussulman it is believed to be a
stone of prophecy, and to have fallen from
heaven. When the prophets were com- i
polled to flee away for safety to other lands,
the stone expressed a desire to accompany
them but the angel Gabriel seized it with
960
his mighty hand and intercepted its flight
until Mohammed arrived, who fixed it eter-
nally on its present site. The proof is
here indelibly fixed in the rock, namely,
the print of the Prophet's foot as lie mount-
ed for heaven, and the print of the arch-
angel's hand when he prevented the flight
of the stone ! Around the stone are 24
pillars, three opposite each side, thereby
still preserving the octagonal shape ; eight
are plain and sixteen Corinthian. The
windows above are beautifully stained.
Underneath the rock is the cave where
Mohammed rested after his flight from
Mecca to Jerusalem, which journey he ac-
complished in a single night. It is be-
lieved by the Mussulman that the walls
under the rock do not sustain it ; that, as
it was flying after Mohammed, he com-
manded it to stop, which it did, in the air.
The walls are only in case of accident !
The cave is about 18 feet square. It con-
tains on one side the place of David, on an-
other the place of Solomon ; place of Ga-
briel and place of Elias on the other two
sides.
In this cave every prayer is supposed to
be granted. Underneath the cave is an
immense well, which the Mohammedan be-
lieves contains all the souls of the depart-
ed, where they are supposed to wait until
the resurrection. Mr. Stanley says : " The
belief was that the living could hold con-
verse with these souls at the mouth of the
well about any disputed matter which lay
in the power of the dead to solve. It was
closed because a mother, going to speak to
her dead son, was so much agitated at the
sound of his voice from below that she
threw herself into the well to join him, and
disappeared." It is believed that this well
is the spring from which not only the nu-
merous fountains of the mosque receive
their supply of water, but also the two
pools of Siloam.
One of the most beautiful of the cupolas
in the Haram is Kubbet e-Silsileh, or the
"Dome of the Chain,' 1 sometimes called
the Dome of Judgment, where, according
to Moslem tradition, King David held his
tribunal, or where, according to others, the
balance of justice will be suspended on the
Judgment Day.
Within the same inclosure is the Mosque
of El-Aksa. It is of a square shape, and
has a spherical cupola. It was a church
JERUSALEM.
TSYRIA AND PALESTINE.]
JERUSALEM.
in the Christian days of the Holy City, and
was called the Church of the Purification,
meaning the Church of the Virgin Mary.
It is ornamented with marble floors, ara-
besque paintings, and gildings of great
beauty. The principal objects of rever-
ence pointed out to the traveler are the
' Tombs of the Sons of Aaron," and the
" Footprints of Christ ;" also the " Pillars '
of Proof," two columns standing side by
side, with but a narrow space separating
them, through which a virtuous man may
pass with ease, but for a liar or a wicked
man it becomes an impossibility, no matter j
how slight he may be. The same thing
may be seen at the Mosque of Amrou, in
Cairo. Between the Mosques of El-Sak-
kara and El-Aksa there is a beautiful foun-
tain, called the Orange Fountain, from a
grove of orange-trees that grow near; it '
is used for ablutions by the true believer. ;
On the eastern wall of the Haram is the
Golden Gate, where Christ is said to have
made his triumphal entry into Jerusalem.
Our limits preventing a more lengthy
description, we refer our readers, for mi-
nute descriptions of these mosques and
other objects of interest, to Dr. Robinson's
" Biblical Researches," who, in return for
the successful exercise of his professional
s kill, was rewarded by a clandestine visit
to the shrine of the Mussulman saint.
Jerusalem at the present time contains
about 14,000 inhabitants, 6000 of whom
are Jews, 5000 Mohammedans, the balance
''hristians of various denominations, the
Greeks predominating.
There is but one hotel in Jerusalem wor-
th}' of the name, viz., the Mediterranean,
within a few doors of the Church of the
Holy Sepulchre, although there are one j
or two other places where they pretend to
"ife/>" you. Price about $2 50 per day.
The Holy places of Palestine are eleven
in number, the possession of which by the
different sects of Christians and Mussul-
mans has been the cause of many deplora-
ble catastrophes, and will be of many more.
It overthrew the Byzantine empire, rent
Christendom asunder, and was the origin
of the Crimean War. This jealousy is car-
ried to such an extent in the Church of the
Holy Sepulchre to-day that they bribe the
Turks to oppress each other; and were it
not that a Turkish guard is always pres-
ent in the church, which is common to all
Christians, they would tear one another to
pieces !
The holy places are, 1. The Church of
the Holy Sepulchre, which covers some
twelve or thirteen places consecrated to
more than ordinary veneration by being
in some way connected with the death and
resurrection of the Savior: this is com-
mon to all Christians. 2. The Church of
the Xativity at Bethlehem, which is like-
wise common. 3. The Church of the Pre-
sentation at Jerusalem Mohammedan. 4.
The Church of the Annunciation at Naza-
reth Latin Christians. 5. The Church of
St. Peter at Tiberias Latin. 6. Church
at Cana in Galilee Greek Christians. 7.
Church of the Flagellation at Jerusalem
Latin. 8. Church of the Ascension, Mt.
Olivet Mohammedan. 9. Tomb of the
Virgin, valley of Jehoshaphat common.
10. Grotto of Gethsemane Latin. 11.
Church of the Apostles Mohammedan.
Among these the most remarkable is the
Church (fthe Holy Sepulchre, situated in the
southwest corner of the city, on a sloping
hill known as Acra.
This church, it is pretended, not only
covers the site of Calvary, and the tombs
of Joseph and Nicodemus, but also the
place where the Savior appeared to Mary
his mother after the resurrection ; where
Constantino's mother found the true cross;
where the angel appeared; where the Sav-
ior appeared to Mary Magdalen ; and nu-
merous other important places. Some
writers deny the correctness of the local-
ities; among others. Dr. Robinson see
"Biblical Researches;" see also "Tent
Life in the Holy Land," where Mr. Prime,
in a most able manner, endeavors to prove
the correctness of the locality.
The accompanying "Ground-plan of the
Church of the Holy Sepulchre" gives the
position of the different "sacred places."
REFERENCES.
1. Principal door.
2. Place for Turkish
guard?.
11.
li.
3. ?tone of unction.
4. Tomb of Godfrey.
5. Tomb of H.-ildwin.
6. Tomb of Melchisc- 13.
di-k. 14.
7. Chapel of Adam nnd 15.
of .Inhn Jiaptist. |16.
8. Tomb of Adam.
t. KMbinu'-riHim-i. 17.
10. Armenian altar.
Place where the Vir-
gin Mary's body
was anointed.
Stairway to Armen-
ian chapel and
lodging.
Chapel of the Angel.
The Holy Sepulchre.
.\lt;ir of the Copts.
Altar of the Syri-
an.-'.
Tombs of Joseph and
Nicodemus.
961
JERUSALEM.
[SYRIA AND PALESTINE.]
JERUSALEM.
IS. The arch entrance 33. Place of recognition
to cvntral Greek i>fthe<
chapel. :>4. Latin robing-room.
19. Greek u centre of 8J>. 1'lace of Christ's
worl.l." bonds.
20. Monks' stall?. Chapel oftheVirgin.
Jl, -'.'. Greek I'atri- 37. Chapel of Longinus
arch's seat. the Centurion.
Holy Sepulchre, surrounded by Ifi large col-
umns, which support the gallery aliove.
The Sepulchre is a small building contain-
ing two chambers, built or incased with
tine marble; you are expected to remove
__ your shoes previous to entering: the out-
23. Place of the' paint-'3S. Chapel of parting ; er chamber is about 6 feet by 10, in the
tlie garments.^ , middle of which stands a block of polished
2,-V Holy Table.
39. Chapel of the mock-
iug.
. Great throne of 40. Stairs in solid rock
Greek Patriarch.
J7. V. here Christ ap-
down 4'J
K,,. <. ,,,1 u it
stone, about a foot and a half square, where
steps.
peared to Mary 41. Chapel of St. llele-
Magdalene aa
gardener.
2-s. \Vhere M. M. stood.;
'JO. Altar of Franks.
30. Part of the pillar of
flagellation.
142. Chapel of Penitent
Thief.
4t. Chapel of the find-
31. Church of the Lat- lug of the. Cross.
ins. 4. r >. Altar of Franks.
'J->. Where Christ ap- 40. Latin and Greek
peared to his in-
ther after resur-j
rection.
stairs to Calvary,
winch is over the
figures 7. >.
We first enter into a long passage through
a low doorway, built in such a manner that
the Turks can not profane the place by rid-
the angel sat who announced the glad tid-
ings of the Resurrection. Through another
passage you enter the tomb itself: wheth-
er this be or be not the genuine tomb and
we see no reason to doubt it, answering as
it does in even' particular the description
given it in Holy Writ it is impossible to
enter it without a feeling of holy awe and
reverence, remembering that for 1500 years
kings and queens, knights and holy pil-
grims, here havo knelt and prayed, believ-
ing it to be the identical spot " where
Christ triumphed over the grave, and dis-
armed death of his terrors." This is the
spot pointed out to the mother of Constan-
tino by the persecuted Christians, and here
ing in on horseback. In this passage, and j she erected a church ; here the Latin kings,
in the square court into which it leads, we Godfrey and Baldwin, with countless num-
find a throng of buyers and sellers of rel- bers of knights who have died for the Holy
ics, to be carried by pilgrims to all parts j Cross, have knelt and prayed. Who would
of the world beads of all descriptions,
olive-wood paper-cutters, mother-of-pearl
crucifixes, and images of every degree of
workmanship.
The church is surmounted by two domes
of different dimensions, the larger sur-
mounting the chapel of the Holy Sepul-
chre, the smaller the Greek church on the
site of the Basilica erected by Constantino
in the fourth century.
Close beside the dome stands the Mina-
ret of Omar, which that magnanimous ca-
liph erected that he might have the priv-
ilege of praying as nearly as possible to
the Church without interfering with the
rights of the Christians. As you enter
the door of these sacred walls, the first ob-
not reverence the spot I The tomb is about
six feet square: one half of it is occupied
by the sarcophagus, which rises about two
feet from the floor: this is of white marble,
slightly tinged with blue; that is, this slab
covers the elevation left in the hewing of
the rock, which was the custom in those
days. The marble is now cracked through
about the centre : on this stone the body
of Christ was laid; on this stone the young
man was found sitting; and here Mary
saw the two angels. There are 42 lamps,
gold and silver, presented by sovereigns
of Europe, suspended above it, and contin-
ually burning. A space about three feet
wide in front is all that remains for visit-
ors, and not more than three or four per-
ject that strikes your attention is a large I sons can enter at a time. At the head of
flat stone, over which several lamps are J the tomb stands a Greek monk reading
suspended, and numerous pilgrims ap- 1 prayers; if presented with a fee, he lights
preaching on tlieir knees to kiss it. This candles in proportion to the size of the fee.
is called the Stone of Unction, where the
Lord's Iwdy was anointed before burial by
the holy women. A few yards off is a cir-
cular stone, marking the spot where the
Here continually may lie seen poor pilgrims
crawling in upon their bended knees,
bathing the cold marble with their tears,
and sobbing as if their hearts would break.
Virgin Mary stood during the anointment. | The church is occupied by different sects
Immediate! v under the dome stands the (of Christians Latins, Greeks, Armenians,
963
JERUSALEM.
[SYRIA AND PALESTINE.]
JERUSALEM.
Copts, and Syrians all of whom have
their respective chapels and altars ; the
Greeks the richest, the Syrians the poorest
of the -whole.
On the western side of the Rotunda, or
Holy Sepulchre, are shown the tombs of
Joseph of Aiimathea and Nicodemus. The
antiquity of these tombs is evident, but
there is no historical proof of then* being
the tombs of these disciples.
On the left of the Rotunda, the place
where Jesus appeared to Mary Magdalene
is marked by a circular marble stone, and
a star a few yards off shows the spot where
Mary stood. Mounting, we enter the Lat-
in Chapel of the Apparition, where Christ
appeared to his mother after his resurrec-
tion. In this chapel is kept a portion of
the column of Flagellation, to which Christ
was bound when scourged by order of Pi-
late. It is covered over, with the excep-
tion of a small hole through which a stick
is thrust and then kissed by pilgrims. In
this chapel the ceremony of investing with
the order of St. John of Jerusalem is per-
formed by girding the candidate with the
sword and spurs of Godfrey de Bouillon.
We next enter the Greek Chapel of the
Prison, where Christ was confined before
his crucifixion. Behind the Greek church
is the Chapel of Jjmginm, the soldier who
pierced the Saviour's side, and next to this |
the Chapel of the Vestments, built over the !
spot where the soldiers divided the rai- j
incuts of Christ.
Descending a flight of 28 steps, we en-
ter the Chapel of St. Helena, belonging to
the Armenians. It is partly hewn in the
rock, and is surmounted by a cupola pierced
with four windows. This cupola is sup-
ported by four massive columns with Co- I
rinthian capitals. There is here an altar j
dedicated to St. Helena, and one to the j
penitent thief. In the southeast ani_ r le is
shown the chair where St. Helena sat
watching from a small window the search
for the true cross. Descending another
flight of steps, we enter the Chapel of the
Invention of the Cross, belonging to the Lat-
ins, where the three crosses were discover-
ed. Remounting the staircase, and pass-
ing the Greek Chapel of the Mocking, where
Christ was crowned with thorns, we enter
the south transept, and, mounting a flight
of 18 steps, reach
CALVARY, a square platform, divided*
961
into two chapels of the CRUCIFIXION and
of the Elevation of the Cross. The for-
mer, belonging to the Latins, is supposed
to be the spot where Christ was nailed to
the cross ; and the latter, belonging to the
Greeks, is the place where the cross stood.
In the eastern end of this chapel stands the
altar, underneath which is a hole in the
marble corresponding to one in the rock
below where the cross stood; and on the
right is another hole, through which the
hand may be passed, and the fissure felt in
the rock, which was caused by the earth-
quake during the Crucifixion.
Descending from Calvary by the Lat-
in staircase, we find near the door of the
church the Chapel of Adam, which contain-
ed the tombs of Godfrey de Bouillon and
his brother Baldwin, said to have been de-
stroyed by the Greeks because they com-
memorated the prior rights of their rivals.
Re-entering the church, opposite the Holy
Sepulchre stands the Greek Chapel, the
richest which the church contains. In the
centre is a globe which indicates to the
faithful the centre of the earth.
It would require a volume to give a de-
tailed description of the different altars and
chapels ; the ceremonies of the different
sects, often worshiping at the same time,
and creating a frightful hubbub the
priests, pilgrims, and beggars jostling each
other on every side ; also the infamous im-
posture of the descent of the holy fire from
heaven. Are not all these full}- described
by Porter, Robinson, Hardy, and Prime ?
The author of "Notices of the Holy
Land,'' speaking of the ceremony of the
Holy Fire at Easter, says, ' ; I have seen
the devil-dancers, apparently under Satan-
ic influence, and the Mussulman devotees
shout round their fires at the feast of Hus-
sein Hassan, but I never witnessed an}- ex-
hibition that excited in my mind feelings
of deeper disgust, and this, too, in the name
of Christ, and in a place probably not far
distant from the sacred spot where he bow-
ed his head and died."
The other most noted objects of interest
in Jerusalem are, first, the Cccnaculum. It
is situated on the Hill of Zion, and its min-
aret is one of the first objects that strikes
the traveler's eye on his approach to the
city from the south. It rises over what
purports to be the tomb of David. In the
building is a large room in which it is said
JERUSALEM.
[SYRIA AND PALESTINE.]
JERUSALEM.
not only the Last Supper was eaten, hut
where Christ appeared to the apostles aft-
er the Resurrection, and where the Holy
Ghost descended upon the apostles on the
Day of Pentecost. The marble upon which
Christ supped is still preserved. The place
is now in possession of the Turks, who con-
sider David one of their prophets. The
Latin Christians arc allowed to worship
there occasionally, and celebrate the wash-
ing of pilgrims' feet. The site of the Vir-
gin's residence, and where she died, lies a
little north of this.
The Armenian Convent close by is said
to be the town-house of the High-priest
Caiaphas : two relics are shown here, viz.,
the stone which closed the door of the Holy
Sepulchre, and which the Latins accuse
the Armenians of stealing, and the stone
on which the cock crew when Peter denied
hjs master ! The convent is the largest
and linest in the city, and with its church
and gardens occupy a very "large space.
They often accommodate over three thou-
sand pilgrims. There is a college for the
education of the clergy connected with it.
In their church there is a chair which they
claim to be that of St. James. There is
also a Greek, Latin, and Syrian convent,
which are the principal ones in and around
Jerusalem.
The Convent of the, Cross is a fine build-
ing, about li miles west of the city. The
tree from which the cross was cut i< said
to have grown here, and has given its name
to the convent. It now belongs to the
Russians, who have greatly enlarged and
beautified it during the past few years.
He-ides the old church, there is a tine new
chajwl. Forty young men are educated in
this convent for a term of seven years, and
the class-rooms, refectory, and dormitories
equal any establishment of the kind in Eu-
rope.
The Jars' Wailing-place is a small area
on the west of the. wall, which forms the
foundation of the Mosque of Omar inclo-
Bure, and the only portion visible from the
outside of the foundation walls of Solo-
mon's Temple. Here the Jews of all ages,
male and female, congregate every Friday
to cry and lament over the destruction of
the Temple. The stones are worn smooth
with their kisses: it is a most affecting
scene. A little south of this. Dr. Barclay,
f Philadelphia, pointed out to us a por-
VOL. II. T
tion of one of the arches which formed the
bridge that connected Solomon's palace on
Mount Zion with the Temple on Mount
Moriah.
East of the city lies the Valley ofJehosh-
aphat, the burial-place of the Jews, who
come from all parts of the world to die in Je-
ni.-alcm. The brook Kcdron runs through
the valley, that is. when it runs, which is but
a short season every year ; its bed is dry a
large portion of the year.
The Fountain of the Virgin is situated on
the side of the Valley of Jehoshaphat, a
short distance below the southeast corner
of the city walls. The fountain is situated
at the bottom of an excavation in the rock,
and is entered by descending a flight of
thirty steps. The quantity of water in-
creases and decreases most rapidly at cer-
tain hours of the day ; but this supposed
phenomenon has been latterly explained
by the discovery of a subterranean passage
by Dr. Robinson, connecting it with the
Pool of Siioam. In this fountain the Vir-
gin is said to have washed the Savior's
linen as a child. According to tradition,
the drinking of the. water of this fountain
was a test whether a woman was innocent
or guilty of adultery; if guilty, after drink-
ing she immediately died. When the Vir-
gin Mary was accused, she established her
innocence in this manner. The celebrated
Pool of Siioam is situated about one thou-
sand feet farther down the Kedron, beside
the King's Garden, but the passage con-
necting it with the Fountain of the Virgin
hiding and intricate that it mea-un s
1750 feet in length. This pool is consider-
ed by many to be the Hethrsda, where the
impotent man was cured by our Lord.
Immediately opposite the St. Stephen's
Gate, on the east of the c-itv. in the bottom
of the valley, lies the Tomb antl Ch'iptl fifths
Virrjin. On the right, going down to it, is
the spot where it is supposed St. Stephen
suffered martyrdom : a red vein that runs
through the white limestone at this point
is believed to be his blood. The Tomb and
Chapel of the Virgin is one of the mo-t
ancient-looking buildings in the vicinity
of Jerusalem. This is the spot where the
Virgin lay after her death, and where, ac-
cording to the Church of Rome, the event
of the Assumption took place. The tomb
appears to be hewn out of the solid rock.
You descend to the chapel bj a great num-
965
JERUSALEM.
[SYRIA AND PALESTINE.]
JERUSALEM.
her of steps. The burial-places of the life of our Lord. Here dwelt Mary, Mar-
father, mother, and husband of the Virgin tha, and Lazarus ; here Mary Magdalene
are also shown here. This chapel is used washed the Savior's feet and anointed
in common by Greeks, Latins, and Ar- them with the precious ointment ; and
menians. Should the door be locked, the from here he started on Palm Sunday to
Latin monk who keeps the Garden of make his triumphal entrance into Jerusa-
Gethsemane close by will give you access, lem. The tomb of Lazarus stands in the
Quite close to the Tomb of the Virgin middle of the village, and is entered by a
is the Garden of Gethsemane, or a portion dark and narrow staircase. It was trans-
of the same, inclosed by a high wall. ! visited; and by no means forget to examine
Here is supposed to be the spot where our j formed into a chapel during the time of the
Savior suffered the "agony and bloody Crusades. The houses of Mary, and Mar-
sweat," and where Judas betrayed him ! tha, and Simon the Leper should also be
with a kiss. The wall incloses eight ven- the identical fig-tree which Jesus cursed
erable olive-trees, the largest and oldest- I when pointed out by the guide,
looking on the brow of the hill. The gar- The tombs and sepulchres situated in
den is in possession of the Latin Christians ; the Valley of Jehoshaphat, and in the val-
but the Greeks are inclosing an opposition j ley to the southwest and west of Mount
garden on the other side of the road. The j Zion, are very numerous. They are all
monk in attendance, after pointing out the excavated in the solid rock, each of them
impressions of the apostles' bodies on the | containing one or more repositories for the
rock, the grotto of the Agony, and the spot dead, carved in the side of the tomb. The
where Judas kissed his Master, -will expect principal of these are the Tombs of the
about two francs backsheesh from the party. Kings (these are quite extensive), Tombs
Proceeding up the hill, we arrive at a small of the Prophets, Tombs of the Judges,
village of Tur, situated on the top of the \ Tomb of Zacharias, Tomb of Absalom.
Mount of Olives. This village occupies the This last is ornamented with 24 semi-
site of the church erected by Helena, moth- i columns of the Doric order, six of which
er of Constantine, to mark the spot of the
Ascension, although the Ascension could
not take place here, as St. Luke says, "He
led them out as far as Bethany," which is
two miles farther east. In the centre of
the small village is a domed sepulchre,
are on each front of a prodigious monu-
ment of a single stone. It is completely
surrounded by small stones to a considera-
ble depth, thrown by the Jews from time
immemorial, to show their contempt for
his conduct. There are also in the vicini-
surrounded by numerous smaller Moslem ! ty of the last the Tombs of Jehoshaphat
tombs. This is under the guardianship of and St. James.
a Dervish. Backsheesh, of course, is ex- I Returning to the city through St. Ste-
pected after he has shown you the print of phen's Gate, on the left hand are the re-
the Savior's foot in the rock from whence mains of the PoolofBethesda, 360 feet long,
he made the Ascension. There were orig-
inally two prints, but the Moslems stole one
of them ! That's as bad as crawling into a
hole and taking it in after you. All writers
on the subject universally agree that from
this spot the best view of the Holy City can
be obtained. Try and view the city from
here at sunrise.
It is but a short walk from here to Beth-
any, which you may either visit now, or
130 wide, and 75 deep. The street that
leads up to the Church of the Holy Sep-
ulchre is called the Via Dolorosa, and is
represented by your guide as marking the
road along which Christ was led to cruci-
fixion. This street is filled with tradition-
al stations, which are pointed out, although
the ground the Savior trod lies forty feet
below the present surface ; among others,
I mav mention an indentation made in the
wait until your return from the Jordan, as [ stone wall by the shoulder of the Savior
you pass it coming back from that excur- when falling, and this spot is alternately
sion. It is a miserable dirty Arab village, kissed by the pilgrims and spit upon by
but situated in the midst of a delightful the Jews whenever they pass that way.
neighborhood, abounding in olive, pome-
granate, fig, and almond trees, and associ-
ated with much that is interesting in the
966
This street is divided into fourteen stations,
commemorating the different acts of the
Savior. The Latin Convent of the FlagcUa-
JERUSALEM.
[SYRIA AND PALESTINE.]
BETHLEHEM.
tion stands here, containing the Church of
the Flagellation, where Jesus is supposed
to have been scourged. Opposite the con-
vent is a Turkish barrack, in the interior
of which is the Chapel of the Crowning mth
Thorns. Farther on is the Arch of the
Kcce Homo, where Pilate, bringing the
Savior out before the populace, cried out,
"Behold the man!" Part of this arch is
now inclosed in a church attached to a con-
vent of French Sisters of Charity. A beau-
tiful statue of the Savior, crowned with
thorns, stands under a half dome immedi-
ately over the arch. The house of St. Ve-
ronica, who presented her handkerchief to
the Savior to wipe his brow, may be seen.
This handkerchief is now one of the princi-
pal relics of St. Peter's at Koine. It is
said to be impressed with a picture of the
Lord's face in blood. The place is also
pointed out where Simon was compelled to
carry the cross.
The Citadel or Tower of D.ivid is situ-
ated near the Jaffa Gate, and consists of
an assemblage of square towers, protected
on one side by a wall, and on the other by
a deep ditch. The Tower of David, which
gives its name to the whole, stands to the
northeast, and is supposed by many to be
the Tower of Hippicus, of which Josephus
so often speaks. This, however, is a sub-
ject of great controversy. This tower was
probably the residence of the Latin kings
of Jerusalem, and is stamped upon many
of their coins.
There are two excursions from Jerusa-
lem which every traveler is obliged to
make : one to Hebron, the other to the
Dead Sea and the Jordan.
From Jerusalem to Hfbron, via, Bethle-
hem, Rachel's tomb, and the Pools of Sol-
omon. The excursion will take two days;
time each way, seven hours.
Issuing from the Jaffa gate, we cross
the hill of " Evil Counsel" on its summit.
To our left are some ruins, said to be those
of the country-house of Caiapha.s the high-
priest. In three quarters of an hour we
pass the convent of Mar Elias. Here a
depression is shown in the rock, said to
be the form of Elias, who here lay, weary
and hungry, when he was fed by the an-
gels.
In one hour and three quarters we ar-
rive at Bethlehem, which in rank stands
first among the holiest places on earth,
and, next to Jerusalem, contains more at-
traction to the Christian traveler than any
other spot on the globe. The town, which
at a distance presents a very fine and im-
posing appearance, contains about 2500 in-
i habitants, nearly all of whom are Chris-
tians. In the most prominent portion of
the town, and rising conspicuously above
all other buildings, is the embattled mon-
astery, an enormous pile of buildings, con-
>i.-ting of the Latin, Greek, and Armenian
convents, which surround the church, used
in common, which stands over the Cave of
I the Nativity. This church, which was
erected in the earl}' portion of the fourth
century by Helena, the mother of Constan-
| tine, is the oldest Christian church in the
world. The ceiling is composed of beams
I of cedar from the forest of Lebanon. Its
gold and mosaics are entirely gone ; but
when Baldwin was crowned here King of
Jerusalem, it was in all its glory.
Descending 14 or 15 steps, and travers-
ing a long passage, we enter the Crypt or
Chapel of the Nativity. The floor and walls
are marble. It is about 38 feet long and
12 wide. At the eastern end is a silver
star, around which are the words "Hie de
Virgine Maria Jesus Christus natus est"
" Here Christ was born of the Virgin
Mary." In the floor of the church, im-
mediately above this star, is another of
marble, said to be under that point of the
heavens in which the star of Bethlehem
; stood stationary to mark out the birthplace
i of our Savior. Al>out 20 feet from the sil-
i ver star there is a small recess in the rock,
in which is a block of marble hollowed out
I to represent a manger : the oriffinal wood*
i en one is now deposited in the Church of
S. Maria Maggiore at Rome, and there pa-
raded by the Pope in tin 1 Christmas-day
ceremonies. In front of the manger is the
altar of tli .; Magi. It' the Savior was in
the manger in a cave, \ve can not under-
stand St. Matthew, who says, ''They came
into the house where the young child was."
I We have also here the chapels or altara
967
BETHLEHEM.
[SYRIA AND PALESTINE.]
HEBRON.
of the Innocents 20,000 of whom were
thrown here after the massacre by Herod
the altar of the Shepherds, and the altar
of Joseph, where he retired at the moment
of the nativity. The whole chapel is light-
ed by over 30 gold and silver lamps, pre-
sented by different sovereigns of Europe.
The silver star, which every pilgrim de-
voutly kisses on his bended knees, was
sent from Vienna, in 1852, to take the
place of the one which the Latins accuse
the Greeks of having stolen.
There are several other crypts and grot-
toes, the most interesting of which is that
of St. Jerome. Here this father of the
Church died, and here he spent the great-
er portion of his life. His tomb is here
shown, but his remains were carried to j
Rome. One of the finest pictures in Rome,
by Domenichino, is that of St. Jerome tak-
ing the sacrament on his death-bed, in this
chapel.
Below the convent, on the outside, is the
celebrated Milk Grotto. Tradition says
that here the Mother and Child hid from
Herod for some time previous to their de-
parture for Egypt. The grotto is hewn
out of the white limestone rock, and it is
said that its whiteness was caused by a few
drops of the Virgin Mary's milk, and that
a visit to the cave, or the possession of a
small piece of the stone, has the power of
supernaturally increasing a woman's milk.
Small pieces are consequently in great de-
mand, and are conveyed to all parts of the
world.
About half an hour distant to the east
is the Grotto of the Shepherds. This is a
small subterranean chapel, said to be built ,
over the spot where the angels appeared
to the shepherds announcing the birth of
our Savior.
About three miles southwest of Bethle-
hem lie the Pools of Solomon. They are
three in number. They average about 300
feet square, and 40 deep. The upper one
is 25 feet deep, next 40 feet, and next 50.
They are fed from fountains in the vicini-
ty. The water was conveyed from here
to Mount Moriah by means of an aqueduct,
which still exists. Maundrell says, tradi-
tion relates that King Solomon shut up
these springs, and kept the door of them
sealed with his own signet, to the end that he
might preserve the waters for his own drink-
ing in their natural freshness and purity.
968
In the environs of Bethlehem Josephus
mentions the town of Etharn, where the
summer palace of Solomon stood, and which
is supposed to be described in Ecclesiastes
ii, 4, 5. It is situated about one and a quar-
ter miles east of the Pools of Solomon, and
is represented now by the little village of
Ortas, whose habitations are of the mean-
est description. This is supposed to be the
Etam where Samson was seized and deliv-
ered to the Philistines.
Returning to the Pools, after passing
A braham's Oak, under which it is said he
pitched his tent and received the visits of
the angels, we arrive at Hebron, which is,
next to Damascus, the oldest city in the
world. It contains at present about 9000
inhabitants, one fourth of whom are Jews.
There are no Christians. The town is very
prettily situated in the '' Valley of Eshcol,"
as noted now for its splendid grapes as in
days of yore. Hebron was formerly one
of the most distinguished cities of the Holy
Land. Here King David for a long time
kept his court, and here was the birthplace
of John the Baptist. Hen Abraham bought
from Ephron the Hittite the cave and the
field of Machpelah, and here lie buried Abra-
ham and Sarah his wife. Isaac, Rebecca, and
Leah, and Joseph, who was brought up out
of Egypt. Over these tombs the pious
Helena erected a church, which is now
turned into a mosque ; and, as it is con-
sidered one of the holiest places of the Mo-
hammedans, Christians are never allowed
to visit it. Ali Bey, who, though a Span-
iard, passed himself off successfully as a
Mussulman, and succeeded in gaining ad-
mission, says: "All the sepulchres of the
Patriarchs are covered with rich carpets
of green silk, magnificently embroidered
with gold; those of their wives are red,
similarly embroidered. The Sultan of Con-
stantinople furnishes the carpets, which
are renewed from time to time. I count-
ed nine, one over the other, upon the sepul-
chre of Abraham. The rooms, also, which
contain the tombs, are covered with rich
carpets. The entrance to them is guarded
with iron gates and wooden doors, prated
with silver, with bolts and padlocks of the
same metal. There are computed to be
upward of 100 persons employed in the
service of the temple. It consequently is
easy to imagine how many alms must be
paid." There are nine mosques in the
MAR SABA.
[SYRIA AND PALESTINE.]
DEAI>
town. The one over these tombs is the
largeati
On your return to Jerusalem you might
leave the direct road by which you came,
and visit the Convent of St. John in the
Desert.
Travelers not wishing to visit Hebron
can take Bethlehem on the way to the
Dead Sea, although it is two hours oat of
the way.
The excursion from Jerusalem to the
Dead Sea, the Jordan, and Jericho, occu-
pies about three days that is, you have
to pay for three days. The usual fare paid
to the dragoman is $6 25 per day, he fur-
nishing every thing, horses, tents, and pro-
visions, to which add $2 50 paid to the
sheik of the territory lying between Jeru-
salem and the Jordan, on consideration of
which he insures your person from rob-
bery, and sends a sheik to accompany the
party.
Starting from Jerusalem at noon, in
about four hours we arrive at the Convent
of Mar Saba, one of the most singular and
picturesque buildings in Syria. It is built
in the side of the rocks which overhang an
immense precipice. On projecting cliffs
are towers, chapels, and terraces. Some
of the caves in the rocks are artificial and
some natural; indeed, it is very difficult to
tell which is masonry and which nature.
It is strongly fortified by a massive wall,
pierced with portals, to protect it from the
raids of the Bedouin Arabs ; and having
the reputation of being the richest, as it is
the oldest convent in Syria, makes every
precaution necessary. On your arrival,
after traversing a first court, where are the
stables for your horses, you ascend an ab-
rupt staircase to a platform, in the centre
of which stands a circular chapel contain-
ing the tomb of St. Saba. On the other
side is the church. This building is con-
structed in the form of a Greek cross. It
is surmounted by a dome, which is sus-
tained by arches resembling somewhat in
disposition the Mosque of St. Sophia in
Constantinople. Numerous staircases lead
from the church to the cells of the monks,
which are cut in the rook. Those of St.
John of Damascus and St. Cyril are shown.
Descending a flight of steps, you enter a
fine apartment, surrounded by a wide di-
van, on which you sleep at night. A monk
enters, carrying on a small salver a glass
of raki, a teaspoonful of jelly, and a glars
of water. The raki is as strong as raw
brandy ; you drink that, eat the jell}', and
drink the water. This is all the convent
supplies, supper and breakfast being pre-
pared by your own servants in the court-
yard, or in your tents, if you do not lodge
at the convent for the night. St. 8 L
was born in 439, and founded this convent
in 483. The cave he lirst inhabited is
shown. It is said that on his first visit it
was occupied by a lion. St. Saba intima-
ted to the monarch of the woods that he
intended to make it his future residence,
whereupon the lion quietly withdrew ! He
lived here until his death in 532, and dis-
tinguished himself by his zeal in extermi-
nating the heresy of the Monophysites.
The Persians plundered the convent in the
7th ccnturj-, and forty-four of the monks
were murdered : their skulls are shown in
a small chapel. Females are not allowed
to cross the threshold. The convent is oc-
cupied by Greek monks, and, if visitors can
have a choice of rooms, we would strongly
i recommend their getting as far away from
j the church as possible. The author's apart-
ment was connected with the chapel by an
I opening in the top of the wall, and from
the hours of 2 A.M. to C A.M. (daybreak)
he found it impossible to sleep, owing to
the noise made by two monks praying in
the most boisterous manner the whole of the
time : it sounded like two rival auctioneers
knocking down goods at the top of their
voices. The fee to the convent is included
in the charge of the dragoman.
From Mar Saba to the Dead Sea tho
time is 4 hours. The country, as you ad-
vance, seems destitute of every thing but
worn-out barren rocks. Soon you come
I in sight of a grand but desolate scene : be-
1 tween two walls of mountains running
north and south, without the slightest
break or undulation, lies the Dead Sea;
j away north of which yon see the valley of
, the Jordan, and can track the course of the
river by the willows and reeds that border
it. The traveler will readily understand
how much "going down" there is from the
fact that the Dead Sea lies nearly 1000 feet
] below Jerusalem, or 1300 feet belo'v the
Mediterranean. According to the survey
I made by Lieutenant Lynch in 1848, the
entire length of the Dead Sea is 46 miles,
and its greatest breadth 11 miles ; its me-
THE JORDAN.
[SYRIA AND PALESTINE.]
THE JORDAN.
diuin depth is 1000 feet; its greatest depth
1300. The mountains which inclose it on
every side are not less than 2000 feet high.
The story that birds could not Qy across
this sea, owing to its pestiferous influence,
is entirely incorrect. The author has seen
both geese and pigeons flying on its sur-
face. The specific gravity of its waters is
very great, consequent on the large amount
of briny matter which they hold in solu-
tion. The waves, instead of splashing,
roll like a sea of oil ; it is almost impossi-
ble to sink in it, and the appearance of a
horse, who, in trying to swim, rolls over on
his side, is very amusing. The cities of
Sodom and Gomorrah were supposed to
have been situated at the southern end of
the sea.
The time from the Dead Sea to the Jor-
dan is only one hour, riding over a perfect-
ly level plain, which is covered with a thin,
smooth dust.
The Jordan is about 200 miles in length,
running through the Lake of El-Huleh and
the Sea of Tiberias. Between the Dead
Sea and the Sea of Tiberias the distance is
70 miles, and between El-Huleh and the
latter the distance is only 8. It varies in
breadth from 50 to 150 feet ; and, accord-
ing as the Lake of El-Huleh is 50 feet
above the level of the sea, and the Dead
Sea 1312 feet below, the fall is great, and
consequently the current very rapid, as the
author knows to his cost, having been car-
ried below the lauding in swimming across,
and getting his feet cut in the most fright-
ful manner in trying to stem the current
while crawling over the stones at the ford
below. This is supposed to be the place
where John baptized the Savior ; where
the Israelites crossed ; where Elijah di-
vided the waters and passed over with Eli-
sha, ascending into heaven from the op-
posite bank; where Elisha, on whom the
mantle of Elijah had fallen, smote the wa-
ters and again divided them.
During Easter, the Monday of the Pas-
sion Week, the Christian pilgrims from all
parts of the world come to bathe in the
Jordan at this spot. This singular custom
is described by Lieutenant Lynch, who hap-
pened to reach the Pilgrims' Ford just as
the cavalcade approached: "At 3A.M. we
were aroused by the intelligence that the
pilgrims were coming. Eising in haste,
we beheld thousands of torch-lights, with
970
a dark mass beneath, moving rapidly over
the hills. Striking our tents with precipi-
tation, we hurriedly removed them and all
our effects a short distance to the left. We
had scarce finished when they were upon
us men, women, and children, mounted
upon camels, horses, mules, and donkeys,
rushed impetuously by toward the bank.
They presented the appearance of fugitives
from a routed army. Our Bedouin friends
here stood us in good stead : sticking their
tufted spears before our tent, they formed
a cordon around us. But for them we
should have been run down, and most of
our effects trampled upon, scattered, and
lost. Strange that we should have been
shielded from a Christian throng by wild
children of the desert Moslems in name,
but pagans in reality. Nothing but the
spears and swarthy faces of the Arabs pro-
tected us. I had in the mean time sent
the boats to the opposite shore, a little be-
low the bathing-place, as well to be out of
the way as to be in readiness to render as-
sistance should any of the crowd be swept
down by the current and in danger of
drowning. While the boats were taking
their position, one of the earlier bathers
cried out that it was a sacred place ; but
when the purpose was explained to him he
warmly thanked us. Moored to the oppo-
site shore, with their crews in them, they
presented an unusual spectacle. The party
which had disturbed us was the advanced
guard of the great body of the pilgrims.
"At five, just at the dawn of day, the
last made its appearance, coming over the
crest of a high ridge in one tumultuous and
eager throng. In all the wild haste of a
disorderly rout Copts, Russians, Poles,
Armenians, Greeks, and Syrians, from all
parts of Asia, from Europe, and from Afri-
ca, and from far distant America on they
came, men, women, and children, of every
age and hue, and in every variety of cos-
turse, talking, screaming, and shouting in
every known language under the sun.
Mounted as variously as those who had
preceded them many of the women and
children were suspended in baskets or con-
fined in cages and with eyes strained to-
ward the river, heedless of all intervening
obstacles, they hurried eagerly forward,
and, dismounting in haste, and disrobing
with precipitation, rushed down and threw
themselves into the stream.
FOUNTAIN OF ELISHA. [SYRIA AND PALESTINE.]
JERUSALEM.
"They seemed to be absorbed by one
impulsive feeling, and perfectly regard-
less of the observation of otlici.-.
plunged himself, or was dipped by anoth-
er, three times below the surface in honor
of the Trinity, and then tilled a bottle or
some other utensil from the river. The
bathing-dress of many of the pilgrims was
a white gown with a black cross on it.
Most of them, as soon as they were dr -ss-
ed, cut branches of the agnus castus, or
willow, and, dipping them in the consecra-
ted stream, bore them away as memorials
of their visit. In an hour they began to
disappear, and in less than two hours the
trodden surface of the lately-crowded bank
reflected no human shadow. The pageant
disappeared as rapidly as it had approach-
ed, and left to us once more the silence and
the solitude of the wilderness. It was like
a dream. An immense crowd of human
beings, said to be 8000, but I thought not so
many, had passed and repassed before our
tents, and left not a vestige behind them.''
From the Jordan to the site of ancient
Jericho the time is about two hours, trav-
eling over an uncultivated and perfectly
level plain, which in Josephus's time was
considered the most fruitful land of Ju-
da?j. Near the site of ancient Jericho we
pass the tilthy village of Kiha, inclosed hv
a thick hedge of " nubk" to protect it from
the raids of the Bedouin Arabs.
A little farther on we arrive at the
" Fountain of Elisha," now known as Ain
es-Sultan, where we encamp for the night.
This plain is capable of the highest state
of cultivation, as it was in ancient times,
when watered by the brook issuing from
the Fountain of Elisha. It was then cov-
ered with luxuriant gardens of palm-trees,
whicli grew to an unusual size. Here also
grew the famous Myrobalanum, or balsam-
trees, the fruit of whicli had the virtue of
almost instantaneously curing all wounds.
The whole of the groves were given bv
Mark Antony to Cleopatra, from whom
Uerod the Great purchased them, with the
exception of the balsam-trees, which she
transplanted to the city of Hcliupulis in
Egypt. Here Herod the (ireat built the
new city of Jericho, and adorned it in the
most magnificent manner. Here, also, he
died. Your dragoman does not point out
the tree whicli Zaccheus climbed to see the
Savior, but he does his house. It is now
| occupied by half a dozen Turkish soldiers.
A fine view may be had from the top. The
fountain of Elislia, the waters of which Eli-
sha healed, being the second miracle he
performed, was formerly, in the time of
the Romans, conveyed in aqueducts over a
va-t extent of ground for the purpose of
irrigation. The water at its source is very
sweet, but quite warm.
Leaving Jericho in the morning, in about
six hours we arrive at Jerusalem, passing
over the most dangerous and dreary road
in Syria. On this road Sir Frederick Hen-
niker, the author, "fell among thieves,"
was robbed, and nearly murdered. We see
from here no vestige remaining of the for-
est where the she-bears lurked that "tare
the forty-and-two wicked children." Al-
1 though not on the direct road to Bethel, it
would be visible from any of the numerous
heights. You pass through Bethany on
your way to Jerusalem.
Previous to leaving Jerusalem, by mak-
ing application to the grand patriarch, you
can obtain the following document certify-
ing that you have visited the holy places
of Palestine.
"IX DEI NOMINE. AMEN.
"Omnibus, et singnlb pra??entes litteras fn-
specturis, lecturia, vtl legi auditurls fidem, no-
tumque facimu.s Nos Terree Sanctss Cuatos.
"D'num D'num Pembroke Ketridge America-
num Jerusalem feliciter pervenisse die 22 men-
sis December, anni 1S59 ; inde aubsequentibus
diebua prtecipua Sanrtuaria, in qiiibus Mumli
Salvator dilectum populum suum, imo et totius
humani generis perditam congeriem ab inferi
pcrvitute miserecorditer Hberavit ; utpote: C'al-
varium, ubi ( 'nioi affixu?, devicta niorte, Cceli
jaiuia* nobis npornit ; SS. Sepulcrum, ubi Snc-
rosanctum ejus corpus eeconditum, triduo ante
guam gloriosissimani Ke.-nrrectionem quievit ; ac
tandem ea omnia Sncr.i P:ilfrstinn> Lori
bus Domini, ac Heatfcsimse eju* Matria Mariie
cons>ecrat:<, :i Kcliu'i"-is no.-tris et peregrini-' vi.-*-
it.-iri snlita. visi:a---e et magna cum devotione in
ci^ Mi.--fun audivNse.
"In quorum fidcm h.i? ?criptura. officii nostri
gigillo munita.-*, per Secretarium expediri niau-
davinui?.
" Dati? apud S. Civitatem Jerusalem ex Vene-
rabili nogtro Conventu sS. Salvatoris die 29
men.-e 1 Xbrij, anno I). K>!>.
' l>r M\M" I;KMI, I'ris Custodij.
[SEAL.] " l"iu < 'i .1 M> N-- \ SU.ERIO, Terra
Sanct Secretarius."
.( Jetitsalem to Bfyrout, vi:\ Xablous
(Sheehem), Samaria, .'eiiin, Nazareth. Mt.
Tilierias, Capernaum, Safed, Bunius (Cae-
sarea of Philip), Damascus, and Baalbec,
i will occupy in actual travel thirteen days,
971
NABLOUS.
[SYRIA AND PALESTINE.]
SAMARIA,
and Damascus is the only place on the
route at which the generality of travelers
care about making any lengthened stay.
From Jerusalem to Nablous or Nabn-
lus, Neapolis or "New City," the ancient
tihechem, Murray makes the time 12 hours ;
the author rode it in 7.30 ! Dragomans
generally make two days of the distance ;
if good riders, one is sufficient. On our
way we puss the site of Gibeah-Kamah,
the home of Saul, and for some time the
seat of his government. Some distance on
our right are the ruins of ancient Beilnd -,
but Bethel has "come to naught," and
there is nothing there to see. Here Ja-
cob, lying on the ground with a stone for
his pillow, dreamed of a ladder that reach- j
ed from heaven to earth, with the angels
of God ascending and descending, and, !
waking, named the place Beth-el, the house i
of God.
To visit Shiloh or Seilun, a half-hour's
extra ride must be taken from the main
road. The tabernacle of the Lord was
placed here after the conquest of Canaan,
and remained until the end of the govern-
ment of the judges. The site of ancient
Shiloh is unmistakable, being described
with unusual precision in the Bible (Jer.
vii, 12). Proceeding on our route, about
half an hour before we reach Nablous we
come to Jacob's Well, now in a ruinous
state, and choked up with stones. Chris-
tian, Jew, and Mohammedan all agree as
to its identity. These are the same fields
that Jacob bought of the sons of Hamor,
and this well did Jacob dig. Here Christ
sat and talked with the woman of Samaria.
A short distance east of the well is the
supposed tomb of Joseph, kept in good re-
pair and surrounded by a well. Accord-
ing to Joshua, it is more likely he was
buried here than at Hebron. "And the
bones of Joseph, which the children of Is-
rael brought up out of Egypt, buried they
in Shechem."
You now pass between the two mounts
Gerizim and Ebal, where Moses command-
ed Joshua to read the Law before the con-
gregation of Israel. According to Mr.
Stanley, Mount Gerizim is noted for two
memorable events, namely, Abraham's
mooting with Melchisedek, and where he
offered up Isaac for a burnt-offering. An
excursion to the shrine of the Samaritans
at the top should be made bv all means.
972
Nablous contains about 8000 inhabit-
ants, most of whom are Mohammedans,
500 Greeks, 150 Samaritans, and 100 Jews.
It is situated in a fertile valley of great
beauty, stretching along the eastern base
of Mount Gerizim, or " Mount of Bless-
ing/' The houses are well built, but the
streets are filthy and very narrow; nearlv
all the houses meet across the street at the
top, and form arches, shutting out the
light of the sun. The inhabitants of Na-
blous have a very bad character ; they hate
the Christians and Jews, and are always in
a state of insurrection against the authori-
ties. It is noted for its olive-oil and soap
factories. There are few cities in the world
dating back as far as this, having, as we
do, its history for over 4000 years. Here
Abraham first pitched his tent in Canaan ;
Simeon and Levi here slaughtered the en-
tire male population to avenge the dishonor
of their sister Dinah; and here Rehoboam
was proclaimed king over all Israel.
In the interior of the village, the ruins of
the Church of the Passion, or Resurrection,
built in 11G7, may be visited; also that
of the Knights of St. John. The Samari-
tan synagogue is a simple building with
whitewashed walls and matted floor, capa-
ble of containing 40 or 50 persons. Oppo-
site the door is a recess concealed by a cur-
tain, and here is kept the celebrated Sama-
ritan Codex. The Samaritans believe only
in the Pentateuch, or first five books of
Moses. They erected formerly a temple
on Mount Gerizim, but it was destroyed by
the Jews, to whom the word Samaritan
was a name of reproach, under John Ilyr-
canus.
The excursion to Mount Gerizim takes
about two hours to go and return, and had
better be done on horseback. The ruins
are not in any way remarkable, but the
views from the mountain are superb, the
scenery being as fine here as in anj' part
of Palestine.
From Nubians to Jenin (the direct route),
viti Samaria, is about eitrht hours.
In two hours we arrive at the Sebaste
of Herod, and Samaria, the capital of the
kings of Israel. It is situated at the top
of a hill which rises some three hundred
feet above the level of the plain. The
only objects of interest in this miserable
village, which contains about 500 inhal>
itants, are the remains of Herod's noble
JENIN.
[SYRIA AND PALESTINE.]
X A 7. A BETH
colonnade and the Church of St. John.
Tin- latter was erected l>y the Knights of
St. John over the reputed sepulchre of their
patron saint, John the Baptist. The tomb
is excavated out of a solid rock, some tif-
teen feet below the floor of the church.
The building is now roofless, and the walls
fast crumbling away. The inhabitants
are most insolent and clamorous for back-
sheesh. Be particular the fee is given to
the proper keeper (about 25 cents), or you
may get into trouble; considerable show
of weapons and a very small sprinkling
of piastres, however, and you will get
along very well. The columns of the col-
onnade that now remain are sixty or sev-
enty in number ; their capitals are gone,
and they are deeply imbedded in the soil.
Samaria was founded by Omri, king of
Israel, and besieged under his successor
Aliab who married the notorious Jezebel
. by the King of Damascus. The suffer-
ing of the inhabitants for three years, dur-
ing which time the siege lasted, was hor-
rible mothers boiling and eating their in-
fant children for food. It was relieved as
predicted by Elisha the prophet. It was
again besieged by the Assyrians in 7 '20
B.C. and taken. It was presented by the
Kmperor Augustus to his favorite, Herod
the (!reat, who rebuilt it with great mag-
nificence, naming it Sebaste, in honor of
the donor.
Travelers preferring to visit Crcsarea
And Mount Carmel on the coast to going
more direct to Nazareth by Jenin, Nain,
and Endor, strike off to the left at Sama-
ria ; the former route will take four days,
the hitter two. From Samaria to Jenin
the time is five hours. After passing the
village of Geba we see on our left the ruins
of the fortress of Sanar, belonging to an
independent family of sheiks. It has with-
stood a great manv sieges. It was storm-
ed and carried by Abdallah Pacha in 1830.
The sheik's family, armed to the teeth,
were rebuilding it when the author passed
through the country in 1860.
Jenin is most beautifully situated, lying,
as it does, at the entrance of the great
Valley of F.sdraelon, the battle-field of Pal-
estine. It contains 2000 inhabitants. On
the hill behind the town there is a foun-
tain, from which the place derives its name,
a modern aqueduct leading from which con-
veys the water to the centre of the town.
VOL. II. T 2
The beautiful plain of Esdraelon, on which
we now enter, is about twenty miles from
east to west, and thirteen miles from north
to south. It is known to the Arabs in the
present day as Mr/j Ibn Amir, "the Plain
of the Sons of Amir." Right before us
stands Mount Tabor, rising like a cone
from the dead level plain.
The time from Jenin to Nazareth, on a
direct line, passing only the remains of the
ancient castle El*F&bh, where the I r.-iv.-
General Kleber, with 3000 Frenchmen,
kept 30,000 Turks at bay for six hours,
until relieved by Napoleon, is only five
hours. The more interesting route will be
to make a detour to the right, passing Mount
Gilboa, once crowned with a fortress, but
now by the village of Wezar. On a pro-
jecting spur of Mount Gilboa stood ancient
Jtzreel, the capital of Ahab and the wicked
Jezebel, and the scene, first, of their cru-
elty, and then of their retribution. A few
miles farther we come to Solera, or ancient
Shunent, passing/,We IJermon, or the " Hill
of Moreh," near which Gideon attacked
the Midianites. Travelers should, by all
means, ascend the mountain, for the view
obtained of the localities associated with
our Bible history amply repays the diffi-
culties of the ascent. It was in Shunem
that Elijah restored the Shunamitc's child
to life, as related in 2 Kings iv., 8-37.
Riding round the base of Little Ilermon. in
40 minutes we reach Nain, where Jesus
restored to life the widow's son; and in an-
other half hour we reach Endor, where, in
one of the numerous caverns hewn in the
cliff's above the houses, King Saul's inter-
view with the witch took place. This
route will occupy four hours longer than
the other ; this is about nine hours to Naz-
areth.
Xnzareth, the scene of the Annunciation,
and the home of the Savior during his boy-
hood years, contains a population of 3000
inhabitants, 2500 of whom are Christians.
The village is beautifully situated on an
elevation on the western side of one of the
loveliest valleys in Syria, surrounded by
beautiful fields, gardens, and orchards.
The Latin convent, a large square building
inclosed by a wall, contains the Church of
the Annunciation, and the house of Joseph
and Mary. The interior of the church is
hung with rich damask silk, and adorned
with tasteless finery. Underneath tho
973
TIBERIAS.
[SYRIA AND PALESTINE.]
MOUNT TABOR.
church are shown the kitchen, parlor, and
bedroom of the Virgin. In front of the al-
tar are two granite pillars, standing about
three feet apart ; they are pointed out as
occupying the precise spots on which the
angel and Mary stood at the moment of the
Annunciation. One of the columns seems
to have been broken about a foot and a
half above the floor; the upper part re-
mains suspended from the roof; a frag-
ment of another column is placed immedi-
ately below it, resembling it in appear-
ance ; but the upper portion is granite, and
the lower marble ! The monks say they
were once the same pillar, but the Mo-
hammedans hacked it through with their
swords in the vain attempt to pull down
the roof, and that the upper part is miracu-
lously suspended without support. You
are now led to the workshop of Joseph, a
small whitewashed chapel ; over the altar
is a representation of Joseph and Jesus at
work. A little west of this is a small chap-
el, which the monks represent as the syna-
gogue in which Christ provoked the Jews ;
close by is another, purporting to contain
the "table" of Christ, on whicli he com-
monly ate both before and after the Resur-
rection. On the walls of this chapel are
copies of a certificate from the pope attest-
ing its authenticity, and granting seven
years and forty weeks' indulgence to Chris-
tians who have made a pilgrimage to Naz-
areth, and said & pater and ave, they being
in a state of grace. On the eastern side of
the village the Greeks have their Church
of the Annunciation, built over the Foun-
tain of the Virgin. They say the event of
the Annunciation took place while Mary
was drawing water from this fountain.
The inhabitants are mostly employed in
rural pursuits. Travelers preferring to
visit Tyre and Sidon, and proceeding along
the coast, turn to the left here. The time
to Beyrout by this route is about four
days.
The direct road from Nazareth to Tibe-
rias occupies about five hours. By this
route you pass over the battle-field of Hat-
tin, where the Sultan Saladin gave the final
blow to the Crusaders in the Holy Land,
completely exterminating their army, and
taking the King of Jerusalem and the
Grand Master of the Templars prisoners,
slaj'ing with his own hand, as he had
sworn to do, Raynald of Chatillon, who
974
treacherously broke the truce between the
Arabs and Christians by plundering a car-
avan from Damascus, and refusing to give
up the merchants at the request of the sul-
tan. By this route you pass also through
Cana of Galilee, where Christ performed
the miracle of turning the water into wine.
In a small church the urns are still shown
by the Greek monks which contained the
water. Our route to Tiberias is via Mount
Tabor. This occupies two hours' longer
time, including the time to make the as-
cent of the mountain (nearly an hour)
You should by no means fail to make the
ascent.
Mount Tabor lies about seven miles east
of Nazareth. It was for a long time con-
sidered the scene of the Transfiguration ;
but recent travelers have shorn it of that
crowning glory. The proof is this, at that
time its summit was covered with houses,
and we still see the ruins of the town and
fortress defended and repaired by Joseplms.
The view from the top is most magnificent.
Looking toward the south, you have in full
view the high mountains of Gilboa, fatal
to Saul and his sons. On the east you per-
ceive Lake Tiberias, or Sea of Galilee, dis-
tant about four hours. On the north you
discover the Mount of the Beatitudes and
the city of Saphet standing on a very
eminent and conspicuous mountain : and
to the southwest you discern at a distance
the Mediterranean, and all around you have
the spacious and beautiful plain of Esdrae-
lon and Galilee. There is a convent now
in course of erection on top of the mount.
Entering the town of Tiberias, we pass
the warm baths of Ibrahim Pacha, he hav-
ing erected a building over them. They
are considered very efficacious in all rheu-
matic complaints. The present town con-
tains 2500 inhabitants, many of whom are
Jews, who expect their Messiah to arrive
here and establish his throne at Safed. It
was built by Herod Antipas, and named
after his patron, the Emperor Tiberias. It
is at present a miserable and filthy town.
There is a small convent built on the site
of Peter's house, and where it is supposed
the miraculous draught of fishes was made;
it is occupied by a single monk. If you
do not camp out, you will, of course, stop
there ; the view of the lake and the sur-
rounding country from the top of the house
is very fine. Pay the monk a visii, by all
CAPERNAUM.
[SYRIA AND PALESTINK J
KEDI:S
means ; ho is rather intelligent, and a "jol-
ly good fellow."
The Lake of Tiberias, or Sea of Galileo,
is 14 miles in length and 7 in lireadtli at
tlu- widest part. Of the numerous villages
that formerly clustered around its shores,
few now remain, if we except the ruins of
ancient Tiberias, which extend along the
shore as far as the warm baths. "Ship-
less and boatless as this lake now is, we
learn from Josephus that during the ob-
stinate and sanguinary wars between the
Romans and the Jews, considerable fleets
of war-ships floated upon its waters, and
very sanguinary battles took place there.
One engagement especially, mentioned by
Josephus, when the Jews had revolted un-
der Agrippa, was most sanguinary, Titus
and Trajan being present, as well as Ves-
pa>ian, who commanded the Roman forces.
The terrible defeat by the Romans under
Titus of the revolted Jews of Tarieha-a
had caused vast multitudes of the fugitives
to seek safety in the shipping on Lake Tibe-
rias ; but the indefatigable Romans speed-
ily built and -equipped numerous vessels
still larger than those of the Jews, and the
latter -were totally defeated ; and, accord-
ing to Josephus, both the lake and the
shores were covered with blood and man-
gled bodies to such an extent that the verv
air was infected. It is added that in this
battle on Lake Tiberias, and the previous
engagement of Tarichaea, upward of 6000
perished ; and, as if this horrible amount
of carnage was insufficient, 1200 were sub-
sequently massacred in cold blood in the
amphitheatre of Tiberias, and a consider-
able number were presented to Agrippa as
slaves."
After Jesus was expelled from Nazareth
he dwelt upon the shores of the Sea of Gal-
ilee, consequently every spot upon which
you tread is holy ground. Here three of
the most eventful years of his existence
were passed. In no other place did he
perform so many miracles. Along these
shores vast multitudes followed him ; here
his disciples first heard his words, and gazed
with wonder at his miracles ; now every
thing is bleak, barren, and deserted.
A short distance along the shore, in a
northerly direction, we arrive at the site
of Capernaum, hardly a trace of which re-
mains. The few that are visible are near
Aim el-Tin, "The Fountain of the Fig."
A little farther we arrive at Mejdel, the
ancient Magdala but what wretchedness!
Notwithstanding the great fertility of the
soil, what a change! In the time of our
Savior this >hor.- was the most densely
populated portion of Palestine. Tiberias,
('apcriiaui.i, Bethsnida, Chorax.in, (iaiuala,
Hippos, Tarirhii-a, Scythopolis, and other
cities, were all densely inhabited.
From Tiberius to Bdnias there are two
routes : one by Safed and Kudos- h-Naphta-
li, occupying three days ; the other direct,
occupying two days, by the Mill of Mel-
lahah and Dan of the Scriptures. The
"Mill" is noticed in our description of
Syria.
The time from Ain el-Tin to Safed is
about three hours. Safed is situated on
the summit of a high mountain. It is
identified with the "city set upon a hill
which can not be hid" of St. Matthew, and
the mountain is one of those on which the
Transfiguration is said to have taken place.
The number of inhabitants is about 4000,
one third of whom are Jews. The castle
which stands on the northern crest of the
mountain was built by the Crusaders, and
garrisoned by the Knight Templars. In
the sixteenth century Safed was celebra-
ted for its schools of Hebrew literature.
From Safed to Kedes, or Kedesh-Naphta-
li, the time is from four to five hours. Kedes,
formerly one of the "cities of refuge" of
the Israelites, is now rendered intending
by its ruins. These principally consist of
two buildings, both appearing to be of Ro-
man architecture. The first is about 25
feet square, and consists of two chambers,
which cross each other at right angles.
The second, which stands about 100 yards
distant, is much larger, and is also square.
The central doorway still remains perfect,
and is richly ornamented with sculpture.
There are no columns standing, but sever-
al capitals may be seen of Corinthian order.
Near by is a fountain surrounded by sar-
cophagi, several of which are double, and
very curious. The ornaments are almost
entirely defaced, and they are now used as
water-troughs. The remainder of the way
to lianias, which occupies altout six hours,
has little of interest until we reach Tell el-
Ki'i<l;i. the Dan of the Scriptures. Here is
the h'tinntnin of the Jordan, whose waters
burst forth with great force, forming a
small lake, and then flowing tvith a rapid
BANIAS.
[SYRIA AND PALESTINE.]
DAMASCUS.
current to the south. This is the largest
fountain in Syria, and the surroundings
are both picturesque and lovely.
Bdnids, or Ccesarea Philippi, is a misera-
ble village of about fifty houses, rendered
interesting by its castle, one of the finest
ruins in Syria. It stands about 1000 feet
above the town, and is accessible only from
the eastern side by a narrow zigzag path.
The time from Banias is about one hour.
The antiquity of this castle mounts to the
time of the Herods, judging from its ma-
sonry and beveled stones. It was first tak-
en by the Crusaders in 1130, but finally i
returned to the hands of the Saracens, in
whose power it remained until abandoned
in the 17th century. At Banias is also the
upper source of the Jordan. The waters
rise in a cavern formerly dedicated to Pan,
and called Panium, where Herod built a
beautiful temple in honor of Caesar Au-
gustus. This spring does not compare in
beauty with the one at Tell el-Kady.
From Banias to Damascus, 12 hours, or
two days, resting at Kefr Hauwar, which
is about midway. Neither this village nor j
the route contain any thing of interest to
the traveler.
Damascus, the oldest city in the world,
was founded by Uz, grandson of Noah. It
contains 160,000 inhabitants, five sixths
of whom are Mohammedans ; the balance
Christians and Jews. It contains but one
hotel Locanda Melluk ; fare $2 50 per
day; service extra, and poor enough. All
the necessaries of life are as dear as in
London or Paris. The bazars of Damas-
cus, with the exception of the amber and
shoe bazar of Constantinople, are far ahead
of those in that city or Cairo.
The city of Damascus dates back over
4000 years : 1400 years it was independ-
ent. The Babylonian and Persian sover-
eigns governed it for over four centuries.
It was then conquered by the Greeks, who
governed it for two and a half centuries.
The Romans occupied it for seven centu-
ries, the Saracens for four and a half, and
now under the Turks. The great boast
of its inhabitants is that the standard of
the Cross never yet has floated over its bat-
tlements. Colonel Chesney, a graphic En-
glish writer, says, " It is celebrated for its
numerous coffee-houses, and shops of con- ^
feetioners and bakers, besides its abundant
supplies of meat, rice, vegetables, and
976
fruits for the ordinary wants of the inhab-
itants."
There are about 400 public cook-shops,
in which ready-made dishes are prepared
for sale. The city is still remarkable for
its silk manufactories, and for its jewelers,
silver-smiths, white and copper smiths ;
also tor its carpenters, trunk and tent mak-
ers ; but perhaps the various articles of
leather are the most prominent manufac-
tures. These are boots, shoes, slippers,
saddles covered with velvet, and bridles
highly ornamented with cowrie-shells, be-
sides the trappings of camels, and common
equipments of a caravan, such as tents,
strong net-bags, water-skins, etc. Indeed,
nowhere else in the East can caravan prep-
arations be made with the same advantage
and speed.
There are in the city eight synagogues,
one Latin and three Franciscan convents,
in addition to four churches, and some oth-
ers now converted into mosques. Of the
latter there are about 200, the finest of
which was once a cathedral dedicated to
St. John of Damascus. It occupies the
site of a Corinthian temple, some of whose
columns still remain. With the exception
of this, and a mosque at the northeastern
end of the city, which contains some re-
mains of a temple to Serapis, all the struc-
tures are modern or Turkish. The city,
like Cairo, is divided into quarters for
Christian, Jew, and Turk. The gates con-
necting them are closed at sunset, and it is
difficult to obtain admission after that time,
and then only when provided with a lan-
tern.
The exterior of the houses of Damascus
has a mean appearance, but the interior is
generally very handsome. Nearly every
house has a beautiful garden, fragrant
with orange-flowers and rose-buds, a spark-
ling fountain fed by the waters of Abana
or Pharpar. The ceilings are arabesque,
walls mosaic, and floors marble. The
roofs are terraced, but those in the sub-
urbs are generally covered with small cu-
polas. Altogether, it is considered the
most Oriental city of the world. "The
spirit of the Arabian Nights is prevalent in
all its streets ; their fantastic tales are re-
peated to rapt audiences in the coffee-
houses, and hourly exemplified in the
streets." "Though old as history itself,
thou art fresh as the breath of spring
DAMASCUS.
[SYRIA AND PALESTINE.]
BAALBEC.
blooming as thine own rose-bud, and fra-
grant as thine own orange-flower, O Da-
mascus, pearl ofthe East!" The "sights"
of Damascus are few. The principal are
the great mosque, with its three minarets,
to whirh access may be obtained by apply-
ing to the American consul. This build-
ing occupies the site of an ancient temple,
whirli was surrounded by beautiful colon-
n.idc's, some of which may be seen in the
court of the mosque, while others are sur-
rounded by modern buildings, and may be
seen from the shoemakers' and jewelers'
bazars. The time when this temple was
transformed into a Christian church is not
known. When taken by the Saracens, the
edifice was equally divided between Mos-
lems and Christians ; but in 705, under
Khalif Walid, the former took complete
possession. The present mosque consists
of a large rectangular court, on the south-
ern side of which is the mosque itself.
This is divided into three naves, supported
by Corinthian columns. The pavement is
of marble, covered with mats and carpets ;
the walls are also of marble, but in some
places the ancient mosaic still remains,
representing palm-trees and palaces. Near
the transept rises a pretty cupola, in carved
wood, built over a cave which is said to
contain the head of John the Baptist in a
gold casket. Behind an iron grating in
the wall the ankles of Mohammed are also
pointed out. The three minarets of the
mosque are called the Mddinet el-Arus,
"the Minaret of the Bride ;" the Madinet
Isa, "the Minaret of Jesus ;" and the Ma-
dinet el-G/iurbii/eh, ' the Western Minaret. "
The view to be obtained from them is most
beautiful. The length of the entire build-
ing is 500 feet, and the width 300. The
Ctistle, which is 800 feet long by 600 wide, is
surrounded by a moat, and looks very for-
midable from the outside, but within is a
complete wreck. There, in the "street
called Strait," we have the house of An-
anias, where Paul lodged; also the scene
where Paul was let down from the wall in
a basket. This last is near the Christian
cemetery. On the opposite side of the
town is the traditional scene of Paul's con-
version. One ofthe most sublime views
is Damascus from the heights of Salihneh.
Here, it is said, Mohammed, when a cam-
el-driver, first came in sight of Damascus,
*nd refused to enter, saying, "Man can
have but one paradise, and my paradise is
fixed above." The famous Abd cl Kader
resides in Damascus, so well known from
his wars in Algeria, and also from his kind
rescue of so many Christians during the
massacre of I860.
from Damascus to Baalbec, distance 15
hours, or two days, resting the first night
at Zebdany, which is a little over half way.
Four hours after leaving Damascus we
pass the Fountain of Fijeh, which is one of
the finest in Syria, and the principal source
of the River Barada. In about five hours
we pass the village of Suk Wady Barada,
the ancient Abila, where Lysanias was mur-
dered through the instrumentality of Cleo-
patra.
The village of Ztbdany contains 3500 in-
habitants, and is beautifully situated in the
Vale of Barada, surrounded by groves of
olive, almond, and walnut trees, with the
mountains of anti-Lebanon rising in its
rear to the height of 7000 feet. Situated
1000 feet above Zebdany is the picturesque
village ofBludan, the summer residence of
the aristocracy of this section ofthe country.
Baalbec. Owing to the discovery of
Jewish architecture amid the Doric, Tus-
can, and Corinthian ruins of Baalbec, it is
by many considered the house of the for-
est of Lebanon which Solomon built for
his Egyptian wife ; and as his successors
were altogether idolatrous, it is not unrca-
sonable to suppose that this favorite dwell
ing was consecrated to the worship of Baal,
or the Sun ; Baalbec of the Syrians mean*
ing the same as Heliopolis ofthe Greeks,
viz., City of the Sun. Although we do
not know the origin of these mighty ruins,
we do know the city passed successively
beneath the rule of the Persians, Greeks,
and Romans, and was plundered by the
Arabs in A.D. 639; suffered under various
assailants during the Crusades, and was
sacked and dismantled by the Tartars un-
der Tamerlane.
u Where Lebanon in glory rears
Her cedars tn the sky,
1'aalhef. ami. I the Hand, appears
To en toll tin- onrioiis eye,
An;! 'mid her pant walks of old
Th wild pi:it seeks a quiet fold.
u N<> pen ha* traced thy ancient state,
No |M>et snni; thy pride.
Hut y, t we know that thou \vert great
O'er all the world beside;
Thy lofty columns proudly stand,
Lone relica of a giant's hand.
977
BAAZ-BEC.
[SYRIA AND PALESTINE.]
BAALBEC.
" But .say, who built thee up, thou queen ?
Did Soloraou the Great ?
Did Sheha's lovely mistress lean
Ou yonder parapet,
And listen to tlu> tinkling Bound
Of Judah's daughters dancing round f
11 The Saracenic prophets taught,
Amid their caverned hull.-,
That devils and the genii wrought
Thy everlasting walls;
That Solomon designed the plan,
Aud they built up what be began.
"Bethoron and the cities vast,
That towered in Palestine,
Have crumbled into dust at last,
But still thy glories shine.
Six pillars rear their capitals
An hundred feet above thy walls,
" And fresh as from the sculptor's hand,
The carving now appears ;
The leaves of the acanthus stands
The test of countless years ;
In grand Corinthian order they
First catch the morning's purple ray.
"Three eras speak thy ruined piles,
The first in doubt concealed ;
The second, when, amid thy files,
The Roman clarion pealed ;
The third, when Saracenic powers
Kaised high the caliph's massy towers.
"But, ah! thy walls, thy giant walls,
Who laid them in trhe sand ?
Belief turns pale, and fancy falls
Before a work so grand ;
And well might heathen seers declare
That fallen angels labored there.
" No, not in Egypt's ruined land,
Nor 'mid the Grecian isles,
Tower monuments so vast, so grand,
As Baalbec's early piles ;
Baal bee, thou city of the Sun,
Why art thou silent, mighty one ?
" The traveler roams amid thy rocks,
And searches after light ;
So searched the Romans and the Turks,
But all was hid in night ;
Phoenicians reared thy pillars tall,
But did the genii build thy wall ?"
Mr. Prime says, " If all the ruins of an-
cient Rome that are in and around the
modern city were gathered together in one
group, they would not equal in extent the
ruins of Baalbec;" and notwithstanding
the space covered with these ruins is only
900 feet long by 500 feet wide. Mr. Prime
is not far astray. The magnificence and
magnitude of the columns, and the Cy-
clopean masonry, has for centuries been the
wonder of the world, and no description
that we can possilily give will approach
the reality. The temples of Baalhcc stood
upon an artificial platform, raised above
the plain 30 feet, having immense vaults
underneath. The style of this foundation
n very similar to that of the foundation of
978
Solomon's Temple at Jerusalem, the stones
being beveled, but of a much larger size.
Three of the stones in this foundation wall
are each 63 feet long, by 15 wide and 13
deep, raised to a height of 20 feet. Out-
side of this platform, on the southwest cor-
ner, there is a wall where many of the
stones measure 30 feet long, by 15 wide and
13 deep. On the platform stood three tem-
ples, the Temple of the Sun, the Temple of
Jupiter, and the Circular Temple. The
Temple of the Sun, or Great Temple, was '
290 feet long by 160 broad, surrounded l>y
Corinthian columns 75 feet high, and 7 feet
3 inches in diameter at the base. The
stones of the entablature, which reached
from column to column, were 15 feet high
by 15 long, making the total height at the
top of the entablature 90 feet. The stones
forming the entablature were fastened to-
gether by wrought-iron clamps inserted in
the ends, one foot thick. Six only of these
immense columns now remain standing.
The Temple of Jupiter stands on a plat-
form of its own, some 10 feet lower than
that of the Great Temple, and is the most
perfect ruin in Syria. Its dimensions on
the outside are 230 feet by 120 feet. Our
space will not permit us to give a detailed
description of this most magnificent of tem-
ples ; you must visit, explore, and study
for yourself. "Even with arch destroyed,
column overthrown, pilaster broken, and
capital defaced, so vast at once and so ex-
quisitely beautiful in design and sculpture
are the ruins which here surround the
traveler, that we scarcely wonder at the
fond superstition which leads the nations
to aver, and stoutly to maintain, that mass-
es so mighty were never transported and
upreared by human hands, but that the
once magnificent but now ruined Baalbec
was built by the Genii, reluctantly, yet ir-
resistibly coerced to their Titanic labors by
the mighty power of the seal of the wise
son of David. 7 ' About three fourths of a
mile west of the ruins is the quarry whence
the larger stones in the wall \vere taken.
One still remains here, hewn all round and
Underneath, with the exception of about
one foot, which still retains it in its native
l>ed. Its dimensions are 60 feet long, by
17 wide and 14 deep. The present village
of Baalbec is a miserable place, containing
about 500 inhabitants.
From Baalbec to Beyrout, time 16 houra,
BEYROUT.
[SYRIA AND PALESTINE.]
TYKR
or two days, stopping at the village of Zah-
leh ; eight hours from tin; ruins, riding the
whole time over a beautiful and fertile
plain admirably adapted to the growth of
cotton.
Zolth contains a population of 10,000
souls, mostly Christian. It is beautifully
situated in a deep glen, surrounded by tall
poplars. The hills on either side are cov-
ered with vineyards. After making the
ascent of Lebanon, the scene is the tinest
in Syria.
From Baolbec to the Cedars requires
about two days longer.
Beyrout contains about 70,000 inhabit-
ants. It is finely situated on a project-
ing headland of the Mediterranean. The
houses are crowded together, and the streets
are very narrow ; it is. however, consider-
ed one of the healthiest towns in Syria.
In the suburbs are many commodious
houses, surrounded by groves of prickly-
pear, mulberry, flower, and fruit-trees.
To the west and southwest of the city are
red sand-hills, rising over 300 feet in
height. The hotels are Belle Vue in the
town, and Belle Vue outside the town. The
latter is preferable, if you intend making
any stay. The landlord is an honest and
obliging man.
Although the Berytus of the Greeks and
Romans was much celebrated for its learn-
ing, its modern importance is of recent
growth. The remains of antiquity are
very fine. They consi.-t of a few pillars,
the ruins of a moat, and some traces of
baths. There are no public buildings of
any consequence. The town derives its
chief importance from the cultivation of
the mulberry-tree in the neighborhood.
There are no wheeled vehicles in Beyront,
there being no streets fit for one to run,
neither is there a road in the country near
it, if we except the fine macadamized road
recently built to Damascus by a French
company, which must become of immense
benefit to the trade and travel of Beyrout.
Agrippa the Elder adorned Beyrout with
beautiful buildings. It was destroyed by
an earthquake about the middle of the
sixth century. In 1110 it was captured
by the Crusaders under Baldwin 1.. and
remained in their possession, with a short
exception, until 1291, when it was taken
by the Turks. It was bombarded by an
English fleet in 1840 for the purpose of
driving out the troops of Ibraham Pacha,
who had overrun all Syria, and even threat,
cned the sultan on his throne.
Should the traveler find it impossible to
land at Jaffa, coining from Egypt, or should
he land first at Bey-rout, and wish to make
the dauble tour of Syria and Palestine, that
is, going up the shore via Sidon, Tyre, Acre,
Mount Carmel, Cassarea, and Jaffa, and re-
turning to Beyrout, as described in the pre-
vious pages, he ought to be able to make a
somewhat better bargain with the drago-
man per day than if only for the single
tour. This trip will extend the time about
eight days, or about forty days in all.
Early in the season, say sooner than May,
very nervous lady travelers should not un-
dertake this journey, as there are numer-
ous rivers to ford, some of which are rather
difficult, especially when enlarged by re-
cent rains.
It is generally near noon before the en-
tire train is en route, and in five hours and
a half we arrive at Nah ed-Damour, the an-
cient Tamyras, where we encamp for the
night. This river was formerly crossed
by a bridge, the ruins of which are still
seen ; now it is necessary to ford the
stream. The second day brings us to Si-
don, after having passed in one hour and
a half the Khan Nebi Jounes, or the khan
of the prophet Jonah, where tradition fixes
the spot where Jonah was vomited out of
the whale's belly. Sidon is most pictur-
esquely situated, contains a fine fortress,
and 5000 inhabitants, 3000 of whom are
Arabs. It was one of the most ancient
cities of the Phoenicians, but from the time
of the Christian era it has been little wor-
thy of note. The citadel was built by
Louis IX. in 1253. In the eighteenth cen-
tury it was the port of Damascus, and en-
1 the commerce of Europe with Syr-
ia, but it is now almost without a -
'1 In- present town consists of a few narrow
and dirty streets, and presents nothing of
interest to the traveler. In 1855 a remark-
able sarcophagus was discovered, about a
mile from the city, bearing a Phoenician
inscription. It is now in the museum of
thf Louvre, at Paris. The distance fmn
Sidon to Tyre is about eight hours' actual
traveling a very long day.
Tyrf is probably one of the most ancient
cities of the world, having been founded
2700 years before the Christian era. 1;
879
ACRE.
[SYRIA AND PALESTINE.]
TANTURA.
contains a population of 4000 inhabitants.
half Christians and half Mohammedans.
The only ruins of importance are those of
an ancient cathedral, the eastern and west-
ern ends of which are standing. This is
probably the church where Frederick Bar-
barossa and Origen were buried, and where
William, archbishop of Tyre, and historian
of the Crusades, presided during ten years.
Tyre was in ancient times one of the most
important cities, both in the knowledge of
navigation and of the arts. The friend-
ship of its King Hiram and Solomon is well
known to the readers of sacred history.
The city was besieged by Alexander the
Great. Palcetyrus, the portion on the main ,
land, was soon taken, but the island resist- j
ed for 7 months, until a mote was formed
connecting it with the shore, when it was
successfully stormed. It was taken by the ;
Crusaders in 1124, and remained in their
hands until the taking of Acre by the Mos-
lems, more than a century later. One |
hour and a half east from Tyre is the tomb
of Hiram, an immense sarcophagus of lime-
stone 12 feet long, resting on a pedestal 10
feet high. From Tyre to Ras en-Nakourah
the distance is six hours, or one day's
travel. A small detour should be made on
leaving Tyre to visit Solomon's Wells, and
the ancient aqueduct for conveying water
to the city.
Six hours from Ras en-Nakourah and we
arrive at Acre or Akka {St. Jean d'Acre).
Take the inland road from Nakourali it is
far preferable to the shore road ; in truth,
it is beautiful lovely lanes lined with high
cactus-trees. The population of Acre is !
about 5000, 700 of whom are Christians.
During the time of the Phoenicians it took
the name of Ptolemais, and under this name
is mentioned in the Acts of the Apostles.
The fortifications of Acre are grand, and
exceedingly perfect ; they are also highly
interesting in a historical point of view,
illustrating some of the most sanguinary
scenes in modern and mediaeval warfare.
It was here the Knights of St. John made
their great defense before the hordes of in-
fidels under the Sultan Ibn Kalaoun. who
carried the works after a siege of thirty-
three days. The Christian citizens and
soldiers, to the number of 60, 000, were then
either put to the sword or sold into slav-
ery. Bonaparte besieged Acre in 1799, .
and would have carried it but for the ar- ;
980
rival of Sir Sidney Smith. There is a
beautiful mosque in the town, which has
heen finely repaired lately. A soldif-r will
show you over and round the fortifications.
Ten miles over a lovely beach and we ar-
rive at Katfa, situated at the base of Mount
Carmel, or in eight hours (one dav) one can
arrive at Nazareth, on th.e direct road to
Jerusalem.
The ten miles to Kaifa. and the excur-
sion to Mount Carmel will occupy the
whole day. You may either encamp at
Kait'a. and ride up to the convent on Mount
Carmel, returning to the camping-ground
in the evening, or remain all night in the
convent. The promontory of Mount Car-
mel, which is 1850 feet high, projects a long
distance into the sea, and is rich in ver-
dure. The convent is situated in one of
the finest positions imaginable. It is spe-
cially noticed for being the scene of some
of the miracles of Elias, and the monks
date the foundation of their order from his
time. The sons of the prophet retained
possession of his grotto until the birth of
Christianity, when they acknowledged the
Messiah. Profane writers prove the ex-
istence of this sanctuary, and it was visit
ed both by Pythagoras and Tacitus. The
church of the convent is built over the
grotto. Notice in the church the monu-
ment erected over the remains of Edmond
Henri Etienne, Prince de Craon and of the
Holy Empire. He died in Paris, but re-
quested that his son should bring his re-
mains here for interment, which filial duty
was performed in 1864.
Jenin may be reached from Mount Car-
mel in about ten hours' travel.
The distance from Carmel to Jaffa is
about three days, encamping the first night
at Tantura, a distance of six hours. In
three hours you pass Ashkt. This fortress,
which was very strong, was the last point
occupied by the Crusaders. It held out
some fifteen days longer than Acre.
Tantura is the ancient Dora, founded by
the Pho3nicians. There are few of the ru-
ins to be seen.
Three hours from Tantura we pass the
ruins of Ccesarea, the walls of which were
partly rebuilt by St. Louis. This city play-
ed a most important part during the war
of the Crusaders, as well as in the time
of the Apostles. It was here that Paul
was brought a prisoner ; here he baptized
MAUKHALID.
[SYRIA AND PALESTINE.]
CYPRUS
the Centurian Cornelius ; from here he em-
barked for Rome. The city was built !>y
Herod the Great, and named in honor of
Augustus Ca-sar. It was raptured by Bald-
win I. in 1102, retaken by Saladin in 11*7,
retaken by the Crusaders in 1190, again by
the Mussulmans in 1219, and then by St.
Louis in 1251.
Three hours and a half from Caesarea we
arrive at Mnukhdlid. The territory be-
fr.veen Tantura and this place is under the
control of Bedouins, and considered very
unsafe. Six hours and a half more and
we arrive at Jaffa. Near the River Xahr
el-Talek, which we ford, is the plain where
Richard Coeur de Lion, at the head of
100,000 Christian warriors, gained a com-
plete victory over 300,000 infidels. (For
Jaffa, see Index.)
Many travelers land at Beyrout, and
take the diligence to Damascus. Visiting
Baalbec, going or returning, the expense
for the whole trip would be 150 francs, viz.,
31 francs for coupe of the diligence to Da-
mascus if you stop at Stoura, where, to
take horses for Baalbec, you must pay the
whole distance ; then, on returning from
Baalbec, the same to Damascus in all, 62
francs, or 93 francs both ways. The pro-
prietor of the small hotel at Stoura will
furnish you with a horse, and guide, and
food for the excursion for 75 francs, if alone,
but with a party of three or more persons
the price is about 55 francs. You can take
the diligence in the morning from Beyrout,
and on its arrival at Stoura take horse for
Baalbec the same day. Examine the ru-
ins next morning, returning to Stoura that
night, or spend the whole day at Baalbee,
returning next morning in time for the
diligence. Be particular and have your
seat engaged for the day in advance.
There are three lines of steamers run-
ning from Beyrout to Constantinople
French, Russian, and the Austrian Lloyds.
The Austrian Lloyds is the most direct
(price to Constantinople, 291 francs ; if a
party of three, 20 per cent, discount from
that). This line touches only at Cyprus.
Rhodes, and Smyrna, making the trip in
seven days ; whereas the Mrssageries Im-
periales take ten days, going round the
coast, stopping at Tripoli, Latakia. Alex-
andretta, Mersina, and Smyrna. Most per-
sons prefer the Austrian Lloyds line from
Beyrout to Smyrna, and at present three
quarters of the travel leave the French
line, the agent at Beyrout being one of the
most impolite and disagreeable persons it
has been our bad fortune to meet with.
The officers of the Messageries Imperiales
line are universally noted for their civility
and attention to travelers ; he is, however,
a grand exception.
Tripoli, a Phoenician colony, had in an-
cient times an extensive commerce, and
was divided into three separate quarters
belonging to Tyre, Sidon, and Aradus.
During the time of the Crusaders it was
taken by Baldwin II., but returned to the
Moslems in 1289. A castle was built on
the Mount of the Pilgrims by Raymond,
count of Toulouse, the ruii 3 of which may
still be seen. The ancient fortifications,
erected by the Crusaders, merit some at-
tention, several towers still remaining.
Latakia is one of the most thriving and
important places in Syria, and was known
in ancient times as Laodicea. It is divided
into two towns, separated from each other
by extensive gardens. In the upper town
is a triumphal arch, supposed by some to
have been erected in honor of Julius Cii-sar,
and by others of Germanicus. It is in a
state of good preservation, and some of the
ornaments are very curious. The far-
famed tobacco of Latakia forms its staple
trade, and is sent to all parts of the world.
Its general commerce, however, has great-
ly declined since the rise of Beyrout.
A lejcandretta, the next city touched by
the steamers, owes its name to Alexander
the Great, but is not distinguished by any
important events either in ancient or mod-
ern times. It is far from salubrious, and
most Europeans who are obliged to remain
here make Ballan their place of residence,
a charming little village about two hours
distant.
Mersina, or Mersa, is a small port of lit-
tle importance, and of no interest to the
traveler.
Taking the Austrian Lloyd's steamers,
the time from Beyrout to Cyprus usually
employed is eleven hours ; for departures
and time taken, see advertisement at end
of volume.
981
HISTORY.
[THE ISLAND OF CYPRUS.]
HISTORY.
THE ISLAND OF CYPRUS.
The importance attached to this island,
in view of its recent annexation by En-
gland, and the discoveries of its ancient cit-
ies, tombs, and temples by General Di Ces-
nola, renders it necessary to give a more
detailed account than that which has ap-
peared in previous editions of American
guides. Sami Pasha, the representative
of the Sultan of Turkey, proclaimed the
cession of the island of Cyprus to Great
Britain at Larnaca, July 11, 1878 ; and Mr.
Baring, Secretary of the British Embassy
981J
at Constantinople, then took possession of
the island in the name of her Majesty.
Although the traveler must be informed
that he will find little to reward his enthu-
siasm, with the exception of one or two
fallen pillars (if classic recollection has
compelled him to visit the interior of the
island), yet. from an historical point of view,
there are few places in Europe or Asia that
can equal it. Civilization began among
its classic groves, and embraces a varied
panorama of action. It was originally
peopled by the Phoenicians, but was after-
wards colonized by the Greeks, the first of
whom was Teucer, son of Telamon, who
dedicated the splendid shrine at Paphos to
Venus, the Goddess of Love. The cities
of Amathonte and Idalium were also con-
secrated to the same deity.
Cyprus was occupied in succession by
the Persians, Egyptians, Romans, and the
later Greeks of the Byzantine Empire,
from whom it was captured l>y the Sara-
cens ; and, after having submitted to va-
rious denominations, was taken by Rich-
ard Coeur de Lion, A.D. 1191. During the
third crusade the Emperor Comnenius had
the impudence to repel the English fleet,
which sought shelter during a great storm.
This so enraged Richard that he captured
the island, gave it first to the Knights
Templars, and afterwards to Guy de Lusig-
nan, a Frenchman, King of Jerusalem, in
exchange for that title. De Lusignan was
the last king of Jerusalem. Having been
vanquished by Saladin at the battle of Ti-
berius, he was forced to renounce his title,
but assumed it again on being liberated
by Richard. He reigned over the island
but two years, when, dying, he left it to his
posterity, who reigned 283 years (nineteen
sovereigns). It was sold to the Venetians
by Catherine de Lusignan, widow of James
III., in 1489. The Turks captured it in
1570, since which time it has been reduced
to a most deplorable state, only about one
fifteenth part of the soil being now under
cultivation.
The kings of Italy assume the title of
King of Cyprus and Jerusalem, Charlotte
de Lusignan, Queen of Cyprus, having, in
1458, espoused a prince of Savoy, who was
dethroned by the bastard James II. The
former, when dying, left the throne to his
nephew, Charles I. of Savoy.
Cyprus has gone through the usual vici?-
GEOGRAPHY.
[THE ISLAND OF CYPRUS.]
NICOSIA.
situdcs of places of great importance over
which the tide of conquest bus rolled. Its
name is blended with familiar scenes in j
Biblical history, as it was one of the first
countries in which Christianity was estab-
lished. Here Paul and Barnabas preached,
and here Elymas was struck blind before
the proconsul Sergins Paulus. It will be
seen from the Acts of the Apostles, chap,
xiii., that in the time of the Romans the
Jews formed a large portion of the popula-
tion of the island. At the present time
two thirds of the inhabitants are Greeks.
The island measures 148 miles in length.
Its easterly point, Cape St. Andrea, is only
about sixty miles from Latakia, one of the
most prominent places in Syria, noted for
its trade in the far -famed Latakia to-
bacco. The extreme width of the isl-
and is about forty miles. Two mount-
ain ranges stretch along its northern and
southern coasts, between which lies a fer-
tile plain, watered by a winter torrent,
called Pedia, or Lefkosia. The entire isl-
and possesses great natural fertility, but
by the misgovernment of centuries it ap-
pears almost desolate. Previous to its
possession by Great Britain it formed a
separate pashalic, of which Nicosia (or
Lefkosia) was the capital. It contains
about '210,000 inhabitants.
The principal products of Cyprus are
wine, salt, olive-oil, cotton, silk, wool, tim-
ber, wheat, hemp, and pitch.
The beauty of the women of Cyprus has
been proverbial since the day when the
Cyprian Venus called this isle her own.
They are tall and slightly formed, their
hair hanging down below the waist in
sumptuous braids. A Greek writer says
he may trust himself to one and all the
bright cities of the yEgean, and may still
weigh anchor with a heart entire, but that
so surely as he ventures upon the enchant-
ed isle of Cyprus, so surely will he know
the rapture or the bitterness of love. But
still Cyprus is not healthy, especially to
strangers. In summer its rivers (which
are mere brooks in winter) become dry ra-
vines; and the well-water is tainted with
nitre, and most unhealthy to those not of
tli<! island born. The English soldiers
have suffered much, especially those sta-
tioned in the vicinity of Larnaca, which is
considered the most unhealthy portion of
the island, on account of the salt lakes,
which extend almost to that town. The
wines of Cyprus are famous, and form one
of the principal articles of commerce.
Lnrnactt is the maritime capital of the
island, and contains nearly 10,000 inhabit-
ants. It is built on the site of the ancient
Citium. and is divided into two parts the
town, which is reached from the landing in
about ten minutes (here the foreign con-
suls reside); and the marine or commer-
cial quarter, which extends from the land-
ing along the shore to the town, present-
ing in the distance a very agreeable pict-
ure. The traveler has sufficient time tc
visit Larnaca while the steamer stops. It
is expected that the British government
will construct an artificial harbor. At the
present time (1879) the Austrian Lloyd
steamers can not come nearer the shore
than half a mile. The fare to shore and
return is about 5 francs 1 franc each if
over five persons.
There is little to be seen in the town,
either antique or monumental. The houses
are principal!}- constructed with mud and
shells, with few windows. The inhabit-
ants are mostly Greeks. The principal
buildings are the Greek Church ffSt. Laza-
rus, which dates from the 10th century, and
the Latin Church and Convent of the Ber-
nardines. Larnaca was the birthplace of the
famous philosopher Zeno, who founded the
sect of Stoics, and taught in Athens the
doctrine that men should be free from pas-
sion and unmoved by joy or grief. Here,
also, died the celebrated Athenian general
Cimon, while besieging the town, B.C. 449.
It would be useless at the present time
! (1879) to give a detailed account of the
time and manner of reaching the differ-
ent places of interest on the island, as
the British government will no doubt not
only make good roads, but put some-
, thing better on them than the kiradyis
or agoyates, which, in 1877, required 13
hours to reach Nicosia, the political capital
of the island : 1 hour from Larnaca to A ra-
dipo; 5 hours more to Athitno: 1 h. 30 in.
to Piroghi ; 4 hours vo Aglani; and 1 h.
30 in. to Nicosia. During this route your
guide (for you must have one) will point
out the numerous ruins of antiquity, as
well as those of the Middle Ages, but es-
pecially those of the reign of the Lusignans.
Nicosia is situated on the northern side
of the island, and contains about 12,000 in-
981
ClTREA.
[THE ISLAND OF CYPRUS.]
Km.
habitants. It was built on the site of the
ancient Tremithus, and, under the Lusig-
nans, was quite an important town. When
it passed from that family to the Vene-
tians it began to decline. It was taken
from them by Selim II., in 1570, when
20,000 inhabitants were butchered by the
conqueror. It never recovered from this
disaster.
This town is at the present time the seat
of a Greek archbishopric. Visit its Grand
Mosque, formerly the Cathedra! of St. So-
phia, where the kings of Cyprus were for-
merly crowned, and where one can still see
numerous monuments of the notables of
the land, but greatly mutilated by the
Turks. Visit the Church of St. Dominique,
which contains the tombs of the Lusignans.
The male population of Nicosia are most-
ly devoted to the tanning of morocco skins,
10,000 of which are annually exported to
different places in the Levant. The fe-
male portion of the population are mostly
occupied in silk embroidery and net-work.
In an easterly direction, two hours from
Nicosia, is Citrea, one of the most romantic
places on the island. This is the ancient
Chytra, one of the nine capitals of the isl-
land ; nothing of importance to be seen.
Nine hours from Citrea is St. Elie, where
there is a Maronite convent. Then Can-
tara (two hours), where are the ruins of a
chateau and convent destroyed by the Ve-
netians. At St. Barnabas (five hours far-
ther) there is a celebrated Greek convent,
near which is the grotto where the body
of that apostle was found, and close to it
the autographic manuscript of the Gospel
of St. Matthew ; by reason of which dis-
covery the bishops here have considered
themselves almost independent of the Pa-
triarch. Near the convent may also be
seen the ruins of the prison where St. Cath-
arine was confined before being sent to
Egypt. At Eski-Mouqa, eight hours dis-
tant, one sees that very little remains of
the ruins of the ancient Salamis of Cyprus,
situated between the Greek Chapel of St.
Catharine and the sea, which consist of a
portion of a wall surrounding a mass
of rubbish, and a port inclosed by two
jetties. To the south is a marsh, over
which are the remains of an ancient road;
also the remains of an aqueduct, coming
from the east. Salamis was founded by
Teucer, and was, after the conquest of the
981J
Persians, a small independent kingdom,
and the principal city on the island ; but
its frequent wars, an earthquake, and the
prosperity of its neighbor, Famagusta,
caused its ruin. One hour to the south is
Famagusta, situated on the eastern coast,
which is occupied entirely by Turks. It
is said to have been founded by Ptolemy
Philadelphus. It became quite important
under the Lusignans and Genoese. The
defenses it possesses were received from
the Venetians. It fell into the hands of
the Turks on August 1, 1571, after a four
months' siege. The conqueror, in viola-
tion of his oath given to Bragidino, the
brave defender, caused that hero to be
skinned alive, and, stuffing the skin with
straw, hoisted it to the top of one of his
galleys !
The ancient citadel serves at present for
a prison. The principal object of attrac-
tion is the Cathedral of St. Nicholas. It
was here the Lusignans were crowned
kings of Jerusalem. The arcades are sup-
ported by granite columns, which bear the
arms of various patrician families of Genoa
and Venice, and which recall the names of
numerous governors of Cyprus. Behind
the arcades may be seen the ruins of the
governor's palace. Several other church-
es existed, which have been changed into
mosques.
From Famagusta back to Larnaca takes
nine hours.
To make the excursion from Larnaca to
Limasol, A mathonte, and Paphos, which are
situated along the coast to the south and
southwest, will hardly repay the traveler,
unless he intends making a prolonged stay.
In the first place, there is but little to see ;
and in the next place, the traveling by land
is very difficult, on account of the spurs of
Mt. Olympus, which descend to the coast.
The time required to reach Bajfn by land
is 26 hours.
If the weather is pleasant, a boat might
be hired to make the same excursion by
the coast.
Two hours from Larnaca the large vil-
lage of KM is reached. It is built on the
site of an ancient Phoenician city, and con-
tains a few ruins. Ten hours farther the
small port otLimcuol is reached, where the
Turks first landed (in 1571) when they con-
quered the island. The town does consid-
erable business in native wines.
A MATH IS.
[THE ISLAND OF CYPRUS.]
EPHESUS.
Nearly four miles to the north of Lima-
sol are the ruins of the celebrated .4 mathus,
noted in antiquity us the capital of the
Cyprian kingdom, and for the honors paid
to Venus, whose famous temple once stood
here. The city was originally l>uilt by the
Phoenicians, but was destroyed during the
Crusades by Richard Cceur de Lion, and
Lima-sol inherited its ruins.
One hour from the coast stands the cel-
ebrated "Tower of the Commanders,'' built
by the Knights Templars, and afterwards
held by the Knights of Rhodes. It is a
handsome Gothic monument. The inte-
rior is very curious ; notice the arms of the
two orders. A magnificent view may be
had from the summit. The wine from this
vicinity is the best produced on the island.
Three hours farther and Episcopi is
reached. The town the ancient Curium
is situated in a most beautiful position,
and was at one time one of the nine capi-
tals of the island.
The route now is through a perpetual
garden, passing the town of Pissouri, on
the summit of a hill, and A rdimon, which
is built on the site of an ancient city.
In three hours Kouklia, the ancient Pa-
phos, is reached. This was the favorite
residence of Venus, and the ruins of her
temple may still be seen a short distance
from the coast. With the assistance of
medals found on the spot, the Danish anti-
quary Hentsch has been able to make a
plan of the temple. Paphos was ruined
by an earthquake.
One hour from Kouklia is Jeroskypos
(Holy Garden). Tradition here places the
garden and baths of Venus.
Two hours from Jeroskypos, on the
south-western coast, is the poor village of
Bajfa, the ancient Xota Paphos. This place
affords but little to reward the enthusiasm
of the traveler, who will seek in vain for
positive vestiges of the celebrated temple ;
but the ruins which cover the ground at-
test the importance of the town, destroyed,
it is supposed, by earthquakes.
For particulars of the recent excavations
and discoveries on the island, see General
Di Cesnola's " Cyprus : its Ancient Cities,
Tombs, and Temples." For a good histor-
ical account of the island, read Count Mas
Latries's " History of the Island of Fertil-
ity.'' The English have reduced the six-
teen governmental districts to six ; and
they think that, under a better system of
sanitary arrangements, fever will soon dis-
appear, as it has from the Ionian Islands.
From Cyprus to Rhodes is thirty hours.
This island embraces an area of 460 square
miles, and is attractive to the traveler both
for its delightful climate and the ruins of
the classic and mediaeval periods in which
it abounds. It received its name from the
quantity of roses growing on the island,
and which may be seen stamped on ancient
medals. In 1309 Rhodes became the prop
erty of the Knights of the Order of St. John,
under whose dominion it remained, not-
withstanding numerous attempts made by
the Saracens to gain possession, until 1523,
when it was surrendered to Solyman the
Magnificent, after a siege of five months.
The port and town of Rhodes is situated
at the northern extremity of the island.
The different palaces of the Crusaders are
well worth seeing. The " Street of the
Knights," or the Rue des Chevaliers, has
on many of its houses the armorial bear-
ings of the knights sculptured on shields
over the doors. At the upper end stand
the ruins of the Church of St. John, the
tower of which alone remained standing
after the explosion of the powder maga-
zine in 1856. The place in the harbor in
which the Colossus of Rhodes stood is
pointed out.
From Rhodes to Smyrna the time is 28
hours. In one hour you pass the island
of Symi, noted for the expertness of its
male and female divers, and for corals and
sponges. We now pass numerous islands,
many of them famous in Grecian history,
such as Cos, Samos, Scio, etc.
The time from Smyrna to Constantino-
ple is 30 hours. Should the traveler in-
tend returning by way of the Danube, he
had better take a steamer to Syra, which
connects with a line to Athens ; then from
Athens direct to Constantinople. Travel-
ers who visit Italy on their way to the
Holy Land often return by this route.
Immediately on landing at Smyrna an
arrangement should be made with the
railroad company for a special train to
visit the ruins of Ephesus. As there is but
one regular train between Smyrna and
Aiden (a town of 80,000 inhabitant- i daily.
you can not return by the train from
Aiden, since it starts at the same hour
as that from Smyrna, the Ephesus station
981J
EPHESUS.
[SYRIA AND PALESTINE.]
EPHESCS.
being about half-way, which has very poor
accommodations for lodger?, and that only
for four or five persons. The time by the
regular train is 2 h. 30 m., but the special
train runs it in 1 h. 30 m. A special train
costs about $60, and $5 for each passenger
in addition.
Ephesus stood as one of the most re-
markable cities of the world long before
history commenced. It was the cradle of
Hellenic mythology and the metropolis of
the Ionian confederacy. It was, next to
Jerusalem, the most holy of Christian cities,
and, next to Athens, the most memorable
982
for its schools of art ; but its ruins are
now scarcely visible, which extended over
a great space. With the exception of the
ranges of subterranean vaults, but little
remains of its colossal temple.
The Austrian Lloyd steamers touch at
Beyrout every week, to and from Trieste,
Athens, Constantinople, Syra, Smyrna,
Alexandria, Port Said, and Salonica (for
dates and time of passage, see advertise-
ment at the end of volume).
TURKEY AND GREECE.
SMYRNA.
[TURKEY AND GREECE.]
DARDANELLES.
SMYH.XA stands foremost amongthe cit-
ies of Asi;i .Minor. It contains a popula-
tion of 180,000 inhabitants, and is the em-
porium of the Greek trade of the Levant.
Principal hotel, the lli'itcl d' Europe. The
streets are narrow and dirty, the houses
mean and gloomy in external aspect, ex-
cepting tlioso situated in the Frank quar-
ter. The commerce is chiefly in the hands
of the English, French, Italian, and Dutch
merchants. Smyrna is the chief seat and
home of the Greek race in this portion of
Asia. It is one of the seven cities that
laid claim to being the birthplace of Ho-
mer, and a temple was erected by its in-
habitants, called ffomereion, with a statue
of the poet. A grotto is also shown where
he is said to have written part of his Iliad.
The origin of Smyrna is ascribed \>y many
to Alexander the Great. It is the only
city addressed by the Apostle St. John
which has retained its importance down to
the present day. Christianity was early
introduced here, and Polycarp, the first
bishop of the city, suffered martyrdom in
its midst in 166. Smyrna was once the
central depot of commerce in Asia Minor;
the products of Persia and Armenia were
brought here by caravans, and exchanged
for European goods. Steam navigation
has created a change. The caravans now
stop at Trebizond, coming from Persia and
Armenia, while the vessels that touch at
different points along the coast of Asia
Minor render the expedition of their arti-
cles of commerce to Smyrna unnecessary.
Figs are at present the principal product
of Smyrna, and their export is very large.
The Caravan Uridge, or Pont des Cararnnns.
is generally visited by travelers ; also the
castle on Mount Pagns. The view from
the latter is truly magnificent.
From Smyi-ntt to Constantinople, fare .*!!>.
Steamers twice a week ; Austrian Lloyds,
every week ; French steamers, every two
weeks. Steamers sail directly to Mar-
seilles or Messina.
The trip through the Archipelago is one
of the most interesting during our entire
route, passing, as we do, so many beautiful
islands, so much celebrated in ancient his-
tory. Rhodes, so distinguished in ancient
times for its liberty, learning, and valor,
and in modern times for its defenses, con-
ducted by the Knights of St. John of Jeru-
salem. Patmos, where St. John wrote the
Revelations, having been banished here
by the Emperor Domitian for preaching
the Gospel. Samog, celebrated in heathen
mythology, is the birthplace of Juno. It
was the birthplace of Pythagoras, and for
a long time the residence of Herodotus,
who here composed the greater portion of
his celebrated history. The natives were
noted for their great bravery in the in-
surrectionary wars of Genoa. Scio, the
"paradise of the Levant," and, previous
to the extermination of its inhabitants by
the Turks, the richest and most prosper-
ous island in the Archipelago. Mytilene,
the ancient Lesbos, which rivaled Athens
in learning and the arts, the birthplace of
the most celebrated of Greek poetesses,
and where the " burning Sappho lored and
sung." Tenedos, where the Greeks con-
cealed themselves when they pretended to
abandon the siege of Troy.
We now enter the Dardanelles, stopping
a short time at the town of Dardanelles.
A few miles farther on we arrive atAbydos,
celebrated by Leander, and also by Byron
in the following verses :
"If, in the month of dark December,
Leander, who was nightly wont
(What maid will not the tale remember!)
To cross thy stream, broad Hellespont!
"If, when the wintry tempp't roar'd,
He sped to Hero, nothing loth,
And thus of old thy current pour'rt,
Fair Venus! how I pity both!
"For me, degenerate modern wretch,
Though in the genial month of May,
My dripping limbs I faintly stretch.
And think I've done a feat to-day.
'But dnee he crossed the rapid tide,
According to the doubtful story,
To woo and Lord knows what beside,
And swam for love, as I for glory ;
"'Twere hard to say who fared the best;
Sad mortal.-'! thus the gods still plague you;
He lost hU labor, I my jest;
For he was drown'd, and I've the ague."
CONSTANTINOPLE.
[TURKEY AND GREECE.]
CONSTANTINOPLE.
CONSTANTINOPLE,
the capital of the Turkish empire, con-
tains 600,000 inhabitants some author-
ities put it as low as 500,000; 330,000
of these are Christians of various denomi-
nations. Hotel de Byzance, new and very
comfortable. Hotel d' Anylvterre is a very
fine house, kept by Misseri, an English-
man, at the modest rate of 18 francs per
day, with 3 francs for lunch, making $4
per day the most expensive in Europe ;
Hotel Belle Vue, more moderate. Constan-
tinople was founded by Byzas, from whom
it derived the name of Byzantium, 656 B.C.
It was rebuilt by Constantine in A. I). 328,
who made it the capital of the Roman em-
pire, since which time it has borne his
name. On the subjugation of the Western
Empire by the barbarians, Constantinople i
continued to be the capital of the Eastern
Empire. It has sustained numerous sieges,
but has only been twice taken : first in
1204, by the Crusaders, who retained it till
1261 ; and lastly by the Turks, under Mo-
hammed II., 1453, when the last remnant
of the Roman Empire was finally suppress-
ed. The city occupies one of the finest nat-
ural situations in the world. It is built
upon a tongue of land of a triangular shape,
which lies upon the west side of the south-
ern entrance to the Bosphoms. On the
northern side of the city is a branch or off-
set of the Bosphorus, called the Golden
Horn, which forms a magnificent harbor ;
and beyond this are the suburbs of Pera.
Galatia, and Tophann, the former of which
are the principal seats of trade, and the
residence of nearly all classes of foreigners.
The aspect of the city, when approached
by sea, is very beautiful, exhibiting to
view a crowd of domes and minarets, back-
ed by the dark foliage of the cypress and
other trees, which shade the extensive cem-
eteries beyond the walls ; but the interior
is a perfect labyrinth of winding, steep,
and dirt}' streets, without names or plan of
any kind, and with houses which are, for
the most part, built of wood, and present
dead walls to the street, light and air be-
ing, as in all Oriental towns, derived from
the interior court-yards.
The author of Eothen says, " Nowhere
else does the sea come so close home to a
city as to the Mohammedan capital. There
axe no pebbly shores, no sand-bars, no
984
slimy river-beds, no black canals, no locks
nor docks to divide the very heart of tho
place from the deep waters. If, being in
the noisiest mart of Stamboul, you would
stroll to the quiet side of the way, amid
those cypresses opposite, you will cross the
fathomless Bosphorus ; if you would go
from your hotel to the bazars, you must
pass by the bright blue pathway of the
Golden Horn, that can earn' a thousand
sail of the line. You are accustomed to
the gondolas that glide among the palaces
of St. Mark ; but here at Stamboul it is a
hundred-and-twenty-gun ship that meets
you in the streets. Venice strains out
from the steadfast land, and in old times
would send forth the chief of the state to
woo and wed the reluctant sea ; but the
stormy bride of the Doge is the bowing
slave of the Sultan. She comes to his feet
with the treasures of the world ; she bears
him from palace to palace; by some un-
failing witchcraft she entices the breeze to
follow her, and fan the pale cheek of her
lord ; she lifts his armed navies to the very
gates of his garden ; she watches the walls
of his serail; she stilles the intrigues of his
ministers ; she quiets the scandals of his
court; sheextinguishe* his rivals, and hush-
es his naughty wives all one by one : so
vast are the wonders of the deep !"
Constantinople is surrounded by walls,
and, although many of them were built 15
centuries ago, they are still tolerably per-
fect. The city was originally entered by
43 gates: seven only now exist.
The principal objects of interest to be
seen are, first, the Seraglio, which is of a
triangular shape, and nearlj- three miles in
circumference. It was built by Moham-
med II., and occupies the site of the an-
cient Byzantium. It is shut in by lofty
walls with gates and towers, and the inte-
rior space irregularly covered with detach-
ed suites of apartments, baths, mosques,
kiosks, gardens, and groves of cypress,
without any manner of order, the build-
ings having been erected at different pe-
riods, according to the tastes of the success-
ive sultans. The outside court is free to
all persons, and is entered by the Sublime
Porte, from which the Ottoman empire
takes its name. It is very hit;!), and semi-
circular in its arch, covered with Arabic
inscriptions, and kept by 50 porters. On
either side of the gateway there is a niche,
TURK ELY
EUROPE
yy / /' /; /, - / < <> I A S I
Rook
* * ?*&*&- * -"* resin
_- *-'f J^^jfc^ -" _^ I : T L - ^
K ASIA
CONSTANTINOPLE.
[ in.'KEV AND GREECE.]
CONSTANTINOPLE.
where the heads of state offenders arc pub-
licly exposed. Tlr.- Seraglio is at present
occupied l>v the wives of the present sultan's
late lather, the sult:m residing in his new
palace on the Bosphonis. opposite Scuta: i.
The Mosque "fxt. Sii/ifil-i in;iy lie visited
by a liriiKin from the sultan: daring >ome
dif the feasts, however, this can not be ob-
tained. Apply to our minister, who will
ni:ike the necessary arrangements. This
principal mosque stands on the western de-
clivity of the first hill, near the Sublime
Porte. It was commenced in the year 531
by the Emperor Justinian, and completed
in 538 : 100 architects, with 100 master ma-
sons, and 10,000 masons, were employed
for seven and a half years. The whole
was superintended by the emperor, under
the instructions of an angel, and cost a
fabulous amount of money. Twenty years
after the eastern dome fell in, but was re-
stored I)}- Justinian to still greater splendor.
The mosque is in the form of a Greek cross,
270 feet long by 243 wide, and is surmount-
ed in the centre by a dome, the middle of
which is 180 feet above the floor. There
are, in addition, two larger and six smaller
semi-domes, with four minarets added by
the Mohammedans, the whole forming a
magnificent appearance from the exterior.
The. beauty of the interior is, however,
marred by the thousands of cords depend-
ing from the roof to within five feet of the
pavement, and having at the end of them
lamps of colored glass, large ostrich eggs,
artificial horse-tails, vases, and globes of
crystal, and other ornaments. Of the 170
columns of marble, granite, and porphyry,
eight were those taken by Aurelius from
the Temple of the Sun at Baalbec, and
sent by the Widow Marina to Rome, eight
in green marble came from the Temple of
Diana at Ephesus, others from the temples
of the Sun and Moon at Heliopolis, from
Athens and the Cyclades. Thus every
heathen temple, renowned in antiquity fur-
nished a part, and the columns which for-
merly looked down on its numerous gods
now stood in the house of the Supreme
Lord, surmounted by the cross. The gild-
ed cupola could formerly be seen one hun-
dred miles out at sea. This was replaced
by a smaller one in the more modern
building.
The Mosque of Suleiman the Magnificent
VOL. II. U
is the most beautiful in Constantinople.
It is far superior to St. Sophia in the gran-
deur of its design ; the intention being not
only to imitate St. Sophia, but to surpass
it. It was begun in 1550, and finished in
1560. It possessed four minarets, two large
with three galleries, and two small with
two galleries. There is one large dome,
two half domes, and ten smaller ones. Be-
fore entering the mosque itself there is a
large court or karem, surrounded by a gal-
lery formed by twenty-four columns, sus-
taining each a cupola. The interior is di-
vided into three naves. In the centre is
the large dome, which equals in diameter
that of St. Sophia, and is about 20 feet
higher.
The Mosque of Sultan Achmed was built
in 1G10 by Achmet, or Achmed I., and, un-
til the time of its erection, the Kaaba of
Mecca was the only Mussulman edifice that
boasted of six minarets. The interior of
l\\e Ahmedieh, ;is it is called by the Turks,
is ven r simple. The principal dome is sus-
tained by four immense pillars, which rise
outside like towers. They are more than
thirty-six yards in circumference. There
are four half cupolas surrounding the dome,
and these are joined by four entire cupolas
forming the angles of the building. The
menler or pulpit, in hewn stone, is modeled
after that of Mecca.
The Mosque of Moh'immed II. is next in
point of magnificence. This sultan, imme-
diately after taking Constantinople, hav-
ing converted the Church of St. Sophia
into a mosque, tore down the Church of
the Holy Apostles for the purpose of erect-
ing on its site the mosque which now bears
his name. The design was made by a
Greek architect, Christodutos. and for it ho
was largely remunerated. This mosque
stands, like all others, between two courts,
called the harem and garden. In the for-
mer the faithful perform their ablutions ;
in the latter the founder reposes. The
tomb of Mohammed II. is an octagonal
dome, very pimple ; the conqueror lies in
a catafalque surmounted by an enormous
turban. The mosque was overthrown by
an earthquake in 17G8, and repaired by
Mustapha III.
The Hippodrome is one of the most cele-
brated squares both of ancient and mod-
ern Constantinople ; it is 900 feet long by
150 wide. The ancient building was mod-
CONSTANTINOPLE.
[TURKEY AND GREECE.]
CONSTANTINOPLE.
eled after the circus at Rome. It was sur-
rounded by two rows of columns, and dec-
orated with numberless statues in marble
and bronze. All these monuments have
disappeared, partly through the factions of
the circus, of the blues and greens who at
one time set the city in flames, and also
after the taking of Constantinople by the
Crusaders, when all its riches and works
of art were carried to every part of Europe.
The four famous horses of Lysippus were
carried to Venice. Among those that re-
main are the
Obelisk of Theodcsius. This monument
is of granite, and came originally from
Thebes. The four sides are covered with
hieroglyphics ; the pedestal is of marble,
the bas-reliefs of which represent the Em-
peror Theodosius surrounded by his court,
others the instruments used to erect the
obelisk. Here, also, is the broken Pillar
ofConstantine, stripped of its bronze by the
Turks when the city was first captured.
The stones are now continually falling, and
it menaces soon to be in ruins. The Ser-
pentine Column consists of three brass ser-
pents twisted together ; the heads are now
all gone. Mohammed II., on the taking
of Constantinople, is said to have shattered
the under jaw of one of these monsters
with his mace or battle-axe. This column
originally supported the golden tripod in
the temple of Delphi. Bordering on the
Hippodrome was the imperial palace, also
the Senate-house and Forum.
One of the principal objects of antiquity
in Constantinople is the Burnt Pillar in
Adrianople Street, the only real street in
the city : it is so named from having been
blackened by repeated conflagrations. It
was erected by Constantine the Great, and
was originally 120 feet high; it was sur-
mounted by a colossal bronze statue of
Apollo, said to be by Phidias. During the
earthquake of 1150 the statue and three of
the blocks were thrown down. Its height
is now only 90 feet.
Constantinople is liberally supplied with
water conveyed by an aqueduct construct-
ed by the Emperor Hadrian, and fountains
ornament almost every street, piazza, or
mosque ; they are generally finely painted
or glided. The public baths are numerous
and very cheap; a hot bath may be ob-
tained for two cents. All houses of any im-
portance are supplied with baths. Among
986
| the most important institutions of Constan-
tinople are the public Khans, which are ca-
! pable of accommodating from 50 to 1000
jicr.-'ins each; they are built by the gov-
ernment, and intended for traveling mer-
chants, who are here lodged gratuitously
while they remain in the city, each having
sole possession of his room. The object is
to attract merchandise and traders from
all parts of the world, no matter what is
the condition, religion, or country of the
trader. The apartments are built several
stories high, around an open court, the en-
trance being secured by iron gates.
All public establishments of Constanti-
nople are crowned with cupolas, and the
sacred ones with domes or minarets ter-
minating with a crescent.
The Bazars of Constantinople are simi-
lar to those of Damascus and Cairo, only
much more extensive, resembling very
much the booths at a fair. They are chief-
ly crowded with ladies, and it is often as
difficult to pass through them as a well-
dressed crowd at an opera. The yrandba-
zar is of enormous extent, and wkh its
streets, passages, and fountains, seems like
a city within a city. It is entirely roofed
over, and is lighted by little cupolas here
and there. This half-light is much more
favorable to the seller than to the pur-
chaser. The aspect of the goods, however,
is truly enticing. One long alley glitters
with yellow morocco, another brilliant with
India shawls, another with meerschaums,
another with amber mouth-pieces, another
with embroidered muslin dresses, anoth-
er with slippers, another with Damascus
swords and daggers, another with robes of
ermine and fur; all the different dealers
in the same style of goods occupying the
same bazar. The Armenian Catholic church
at Pera should be visited. Here is a Gobe-
lin copy of Raphael's Transfiguration, pre-
sented by the Empress of the French in
October, 1869, and valued at 250,000 francs.
The Cemeteries of Constantinople are
among its greatest beauties, ornamented
as they are with the dark Turkish cypress.
These trees are supposed to neutralize all
pestilential exhalations, and with the Mo-
hammedans it has always been a rule to
plant one at the birth and death of every
member of the family, consequently for
miles round the city we perceive vast for-
ests of these trees.
CONSTANTINOPLE.
1TKKKY AND GREECE.]
CONSTANTINOPLE.
The place of the gondola of Venice is
supplied by the light caique, a kind of
wherry, of which not fewer than 80,000
are estimated to ply on the waters of Stam-
boul and its suburbs. They are very ele-
gant in their construction, and glide over
the waters with great rapidity. They must
be entered with great caution, and the pas-
sengers must sit in the bottom in the same
manner as in an Indian canoe. The fare
to cross the Golden Horn, half a piastre;
to land yourself and baggage from the
steamer. 5 piastres; from the Custom-house
to Tophani, 2 piastres ; all day, for 20 pias-
tres or one dollar.
The regular fare of a valet de place at
Constantinople is 6 francs. Atanase, a
very good one, may be seen at the Hotel
Byzance. Ten days is the least possible
time you can devote to seeing the city and
suburbs in a proper manner.
Mr. Turner says : "Amid the novelties
that strike the European on his arrival,
nothing surprises him more than the silence
that pervades so large a capital. The only
sounds he hears by day are the cries of
bread, fruits, sweetmeats, or sherbet, car-
ried in a large wooden tray on the head of
an itinerant vendor, and at intervals the
barking of the dogs, disturbed by the foot
of the passenger lazy, ugly curs, of a red-
dish-brown color, with muzzles like that
of a fox ; short ears, and famished looks,
who lie in the middle of the streets, and
rise only when roused with blows. The
contrast between Constantinople and a Eu-
ropean city is still more strongly marked
at night; by 10 o'clock every human voice
is hushed, and not a creature is seen in
the streets except a few patrols, and the
innumerable number of dogs, who at in-
tervals send forth such repeated bowlings
that it requires practice to be able to sleep
in spite of their noise. This silence is
frequently disturbed by a fire, which is
announced by the patrol striking on the
pavement with their iron-shod staves, and
calling loudly yungen tear (there is a fire),
on which the firemen assemble, and all the
inhabitants in the neighborhood are imme-
diately on the alert. If it be not quickly
subdued, all the ministers of state are
obliged to attend ; and if it threaten ex-
tensive ravages, the sultan himself must
appear to encourage the efforts of the fire-
men."
During the month of Ramadan, which
is the Mohammedan Lent, the Moslem is
forbidden to take food or drink, to smoke
or snuff. from sunrise to sunset; on the set-
ting of the sun a cannon is fired, and then
commences a scene of revelry ; the mosques
and coffee-houses are open, the minarets
illuminated, and the faithful drink, smoke,
and carouse in their quiet way until morn-
ing. The Bairam, which succeeds the
Ramadan, lasts three days, and is a time
for unmixed festivity; every Turk dons
his holiday attire, and general hilarity pre-
vails. Seventy days after this comes the
Feast of Sacrifice, or Coorban Bairam,
which lasts four days, on which occasion
business is every where suspended, and
oxen and sheep are sacrificed to Allah and
the Prophet.
The shores of the Bosphorus are lined
on either side with numerous villages, cas-
tles, and forts, through the whole extent
of the channel. Taking the European
\ shore, and passing the promontory of Top-
Hani*, we see first the palace of Dolma-
i Baghtche and the palace of Beschicktasche,
; the latter the favorite abode of the sultans
I in the fine season. Orta-Keni is the first
j stopping-place of the steamers making this
i excursion. It is a large village, peopled
. with Christians and Jews. The principal
! buildings are the palace of Riza Pacha and
i the mosque of the Sultana Valide, a square
edifice surmounted by a cupola, and decc-
j rated with Corinthian columns. At a lit-
: tie distance from the town, along the shore,
I is the palace of Mehemet AH Pacha, broth-
er-in-law of the sultan.
Kouron-Schechme. Here Medea landed
with Jason, on his return from Colchis, and
' planted a laurel -tree. Constantino also
built a church here in honor of Michael
; the Archangel. In the fifth century Sim-
| eon the Stylite caused his pillar to be
j erected here, upon which he passed the
i remainder of his life. We next pass
\ Amaout-Keni, a small village inhabited
by (i reeks.
Bebek is situated on one of the prettiest
bays of the Bosphorus. Here is a summer
pavilion of the sultan, with mosque and
baths ; also the Kiosk of the Conferences,
the biscuit manufactory of the fleet, and
an American Protestant school. Between
Bebek and Roumili Kissar is the narrowest
part of the channel. The current is very
987
ROUMIU KISSAR.
[TURKEY AND GREECE.]
liOCMlLI-JVEXKR.
swift, and is called by the Turks Chettan
Akindisi (Satan's current).
Koumili Kissar (the Castle of Europe)
was built by Mohammed II. in 1451, not-
withstanding the remonstrances of Con-
stantine Palaeologus, emperor of the East,
who foresaw in its completion the fall of
his capital and empire. One thousand
masons were employed in its construction,
each of whom was assisted by two work-
men. A measure of two cubits was marked
for their daily task, and the thickness of the
walls was twenty-two feet. Mohammed
himself pressed and directed the work. The
whole was finished in three months. The
towers were armed with enormous cannon,
which shot forth bullets of marble against
the city. Immediately on its completion
Mohammed began the siege of Constanti-
nople.
Balta-Liman. Here stands the palace
of Reschid Pacha, now belonging to his
son, Etham Pacha. Here were signed the
treaty of commerce of 1838, the treaty of
the Five Powers in 1841, and the conven-
tion in 1849 relative to the Principalities
of the Danube.
Stenia was called by the ancients Stenos,
Leothenius, and Sosthenius, and was the
scene of many nautical fights and enter-
prises. It was occupied in 712 by the
Bulgarians, who menaced in their incur-
sions the Eastern Empire. Yeni-Keni lies
farther on : the situation and surroundings
are very lovely.
Therapia (health) deserves its name from
the salubrity of its climate. It was for-
merly called Pharmateia, from the poison
thrown on the coast by Medea when in pur-
suit of Jason. This place has been the wit-
ness of many fights between the Venetians
and Genoese. The shore is lined with
cafes, hotels, summer-houses, and gardens.
The French and English embassadors have
each a summer-palace here. The palace of
the French embassy formerly belonged to ;
the Prince Ypsilanti, but was confiscated by
Sultan Selim III., and presented to France
during the mission of the Marcchal Sebas- -,
tiani.
Buyuk-Dere is so named from the groat
valley which stretches several miles in-
land. It is the last stopping-place of the
steamers making the excursion of the Dan-
ube, and just before arriving we first catch
"glimpse of the Black Sea. Btiyuk-Pcrc
988
is one of the most charming summer-resi-
dences to be found in Turkey ; many rich
merchants of Constantinople have their
country-houses here, going to the city in
the morning and returning in the evening.
The palace of the Russian embassy is one
of the finest buildings in the neighborhood.
The favorite promenade of the people is in
the great valley. Here stands a group of
seven plantains, called the Seven Brothers.
One is called the plantain of Godfrey de
Bouillon, a tradition existing that Godfrey
and his army encamped here in 1096. This,
however, is refuted by the writings of Anna
Comnena. An excursion is often made liy
travelers from Buyuk-Dere to Bagdtche-
Keni and Belgrade. The former is located on
the summit of a range of hills surrounding
the great valley of Buyuk-Dere. The grand
aqueduct of Mahmoud I. closes in the val-
ley. This aqueduct was built in 1732, and
furnishes water to Pera, Galata, and Be-
schik-Tasch. About four miles farther-in-
land is Jjelyrade, situated in the midst of
a dense forest 17 miles in circumference.
The supply of water to the reservoir of the
capital depends upon the preservation of
these woods, and there is consequently a
guard stationed here to protect them and
the aqueduct from damage. The village
of Belgrade was called Pftra in the time
of the Byzantines. It is a pleasant place
of residence during the spring of the year,
but in summer the mists rising from the
forest render it unhealthy.
Roumili-Fener marks the limits of the
Bosphorus. The three promontories which
terminate the European shore have large
batteries to protect the entrance of the
channel. Opposite them are the Cyanean
Rocks, or the Symplegades, so called from
their supposed mobility. This idea pro'ba-
bly arose from their disappearing in stormy
weather. Returning by the
Asiatic Shore, the fortress of Riva stands
atthe entrance ofthe Bosphorus, and serves,
like Kila. opposite, to protect the channel.
Farwrahi and Poiras are next passed : the
latter fortress stands opposite that of Ka-
ribdsche, on the European shore. Fil-
Boumou, or the Elephant Cape, is also
fortified.
Anadouli-Kavak. This village, stands at
the foot of the promontory Ilifron, which
owes its name to the temple ofthe Twelve
Gods, to whom the Argivc Phrygos, and
BKV-KOS.
[TURKEY AND GREECE.]
KOUSGOUSDJOUK.
afterward Jason, on his return from Col-
chis, erected alt-irs and ottered sacritices.
The Giant' AfouotaM is tlio highest on the
shores of the l>o.-phoru.s, and rises 580 feet
above the level of the sea. It is called
loucha- iJagh by the Turks, and at the foot
diverges into two capes, sepur.it, -d by tin;
little IJayof.lwoMv Jen, which lies oppo-
site the Gulf of Buyuk-Derc. On the
mountains are the ruins of the Church of
St. Pantuleon, built by Justinian ; also the
tomb of Joshua (?) as shown by the Turks.
Some distance along the shore lies Houn-
kiar-lskelfssi. This has always been a fa-
vorite residence of the sultans. Moham-
med II. here built a kiosk, and Soliman the
Mamiiiireiit a palace, which was attain re-
built by Mahmoiid I., in ITlti. The. pres-
ent kiosk was built and offered to the sul-
tan by Mehemet AH, pucha of Egypt. It
is said to have cost six million francs. In
1833 a Russian army encamped in the va!-
ley; and on June 2(>th the famous treaty
of Hoimkiar-Iskelessi was signe.l, which
closed the Dardanelles to foreign fleets.
Continuing along the shore, we come to
the village of Bey-Kos, which stands on
the gulf of the same name. This gulf was
formerly called the Bay of Amyctis : here
the king of the Bebryces was slain by I'ol-
lux on the return of the Argonantic expe-
dition. A laurel, planted at the place of
his def.Mt, had the singular effect of ren-
dering insensible those who gathered its
branches.
The bay of Bcy-Kos was formerly cele-
brated fur its swordrish ; they have now,
however, entinly disappeared from the
Bosphonis. Continuing along the coast,
we puss Indjir-Keiti, Ichibouklon, and Kun-
lidje, the bloody village. Here is a fine
kiosk erected by Mehemet Ali. Anaduuli-
Ilixsiir (the castle of Asia) lies opposite
Roumili-Hissar, and, like that fortress,
was built by Mohammed II. It is now in
ruins, and presents nothing to the view
but four dismantled towers. The Sweet
Waters cf.\s : n is one of the most charm-
ing spots on the liiisphorus. Here the
lovely beauties of the harem come to p:i<>
the summer months. In the centre of the
promenade is a large white marble foun-
tain, covered with inscriptions in letters of
gold, covered \>y a large projecting roof,
and little domes surmounted by crescents.
Kandi'i derives Its name from the light-
I house which crowns the hill Idjadieh above
the village.
Koulleli. Here Soliman lay hid during
three years from his father Selim I., who
! had condemned him to death. Tchfngtl-
K> n : is so called from the old anchor found
; on the shore by Mohammed II. Eeylerbey-
Keni, a large village with a magnificent
palace, finished in 1867. At Istarros is a
very pretty mosque with two minarets,
formerly a Greek church.
Kousgoundjouk is the last stopping-place
on the Asiatic coast before arriving at Scu-
tari. Scutari is regarded as a suburb of
the Turkish capital, although the arm of
the sea is nearly a mile wide which flows
between them. This is the starting-point
of the roads leading to the Asiatic prov-
] inces of the empire. It has eight mosques,
the principal of which are the Buyuk-Ijami
and the Mosqueof the Sultana Valide. The
latter enjoys the privilege of being illumi-
| nated during the nights of Ramadan, like
the imperial mosques in Constantinople.
i The cemetery of Scutari is one of the
j largest in the East. It is an immense wood
' of cypress-trees, crossed by large alleys,
which extend nearly three miles. The
I soil of Scutari is considered as sacred
ground. Here the Ottoman dynasty iv;:s
founded, and from here Islamism spread it-
i self in Europe. Many illustrious men have
i therefore desired to be buried in this c< m-
etery. One tomb attracts particular at-
tention ; it is a dome sustained by Fix mar-
ble columns, and marks the pl;ice where
th " Sultan Mahmoud buried his favorite
horse. The Convent of the Itufai, or howl-
i ing dervishes, should be visited by thetrav-
! eler, their manner of worship being very
; novel and interesting.
Steamers leave < 'onstantinople weekly
for the Danube. S..loniea. V;,rna. Odessa,
! Trebizond, Marseilles, and the Syrian eoa-f .
Trav.-l'Ts wishing to go up the Danube
takethe Austrian hloyds steamers to Varna,
and then go by rail to Rustchiik, where they
join the mail steamer, itnd proceed up the.
Danube to Basiasch. Here they may take
the railroad to IVsth and Vienna, or con-
tinue on the Danube as far as IVsth.
To visit the Crimea you must go by tho
I way of Odessa, taking a weekly steamer
from thence to Sebastopol. Fifty dollars
will !>;; sufficient to pay the passage both
ways ; and the different battle - fields, as
989
THE ISLES OF GREECE. [TURKEY AND GREECE.]
well as the ancient caves of the Crimea, !
are well worth a visit. The English have i
left there two monuments of their nation- '
a lity a splendid macadamized road from
Balaklava to Sebastopol, the only one in
the country, and an immense pyramid of
broken porter-bottles, solidified in such a
manner by the weather that its perpetuity :
is likely to rival the Pyramids of Egypt.
From Constantinople to Genoa, via Athens.
the time is eight days. Fare, 500 f r. 100.
To Athens, 41 hours : this fare varies con- ,
siderablv.
THE ISLES OF GREECE.
After passing through the Dardanelles,
or Hellespont, we are again among the
" Isles of Greece," so beautifully described
by Byron in the following verses, whk-h
we quote in full, as no description we could
give would so well while away the hours as
we pass between them :
" The isles of Greece, the isles of Greece,
Where burning Sappho loved and sung,
Where grew the arts of war and peace.
Where Delos rose and Phoebus sprung ;
Eternal summer gilds them yet,
But all, except their sun, is set.
" The Scian and the Teian muse,
The hero's harp, the lover's lute,
Have found the fame your shores refuse ;
Their place of birth alone is mute;
To sounds which echo farther west
Than your sires' 'Islands of the Blest.'
"The mountains look on Marathon,
And Marathon looks on the sea ;
And, musing there a-i hour alone,
I dreamt that Greece might still be free ;
For, standing on the Persian's grave,
I could not desm myself a slave.
" A king ?at on the rocky brow
Which looks o'er sea-born Salamis,
And ships by thousands lay below.
And men in nations all were his !
He counted them at break of day,
And when the sun set, where were they?
" And where are they ? and where art thou,
My country? On thy voiceless shore
The heroic lay i-; tuneless now
The heroic bosom beats no more !
And must thy lyre, so long divine,
Regenerate into hands like mine?
u 'Ti- something in the dearth offline.
Though linked among a fettered race.
To feel at least .1 patriot's shame.
Even us I sincr, suffuse my f ice ;
For what is left the poet he.iv :
For Greeks a blush for Greece a teir.
"Must we but weep o'er days more liles' ?
Must we but Mush ? Our father- hit- 1
990
ICarth. render back from out thy breast
A remnant of our Spartan dead !
Of the three hundred grant but three,
To make a new Thermopylae!
I What '. silent still, and silent all?
Ah ! no : the voices of the dead
Sound like a distant torrent's fall,
And answer, Let one living head,
But one arise we come, we come !
'Tis but the living who are dumb.'
" In vain, in vain : strike other chords ;
Fill high the cup with Samian wine !
Leave battles to the Turkish hordes,
And shed the blood of Scio's vine!
Hark ! rising to the ignoble call
How answers each bold Bacchanal !
II You have the Pyrrhic dance as yet,
Where is the Pyrrhic phalanx gone?
Of two such lessons, why forget
The nobler and the manlier one ?
You have the letters Cadmus gave
Think ye he meant them for a slave ?
" Fill high the bowl with Samian wine!
We will not think of themes like the el
It made Anacreon's song divine :
lie served but served J'olycrates
A tyrant: but our masters then
Were still, at least, our countrymen.
"The tyrant of the Chersonese
Wa- freedom's best and bravest friend;
Tlint tyrant was Miltiades!
Oh; that the present hour could lend
Another despot f the kind '.
Such chains as his w.'iv sure to bind.
" Fill high the bowl with Samian wine !
On Suli's rock and 1'erira's shore,
Exists the remnants of a line
Such as the Doric mothers bore ;
And there perhaps some seed is sown
The Heracleidan blood might own.
" Trust not for freedom to the Franks
They have a king who buys and sells.
In native swords, and native ranks,
The only hope of courage dwells :
But Turkish force and Latin fraud
Would break your shield, however b>"oad.
"Fill high the bowl with Samian wine!
Our virgins dance beneath the shade.
I see their glorious black eyes shine ;
But. gazing on each glowing maid,
My own the burning tear-drop laves
To think such breasts must suckle slaves.
u Place me on Suniam's marbled steep,
Where nothing, save the waves and I,
May luar our mutual murmurs sweep;
There, swan-like, let me sing and die :
A land of slaves shall iv'er lie mine
Dash down yon cup of Samian wine:"
The French steamers remain generally
at Pirams, the sea-port of Athens, four or
five hours sufficient time to examine tho
ruins of the Acropolis. There is little else
to be seen at Athens. If you have time,
you can remain one week, until the next
boat arrives.
GREECE AND Th
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GREECE.
[TURKEY AND GREECE.]
GREECE.
GREECE.
The limits of ancient Greece were much
more extensive than that of the modern
kingdom. The greatest extent of the
Greek main hind from north to south is
little more than 200 miles, and from east to
west only 1(1."). Including the numerous
islands it embraces, the total area of the
kingdom is 19,9-15 square miles, or about
the size of Vermont and New Hampshire.
It is divided into four portions, Northern
Greece, the Morea, the Grecian Islands,
and the Ionian Islands, which latter were
incorporated with the kingdom of Greece
in 1sr>-l. The first is that portion which
lies north of the Gulf of Corinth. The sur-
face of the whole is generally mountainous.
The climate is usually warm and delight-
ful ; its clear and cloudless sky has been
much celebrated, and the perfect transpa-
rency of the atmosphere helps to display
the natural objects of its scenery in their
highest beauty.
On the plains near the const snow is sel-
dom seen, and the winters are mostly of
short duration. In the centre of the Mo- !
rea snow generally lies on the ground for
several weeks. For a few weeks in Feb-
ruary the rains fall, after which time spring
commences. Early in March the vine and
olives bud, and in May the corn is reaped.
The olive is distinguished for its superior
excellence, and the orange, lemon, citron,
fig, banana, and water-melon afford the
richest fruit.
Bees are abundant in Greece, and the
produce of honey is very great.
The Greek nation boasts of the highest
antiquity; the cities of Argos, Thebes,
Athens, Sparta, and Corinth, claim to have
been founded nearly 200 B.C. The first
constitution of Greek cities is beyond the
reach of exact history, but monarchy seems
to have been the earliest form.
" The civil polity of Sparta and Athens,
whose governing power began to lessen
the influence of other states, was most
successful in calling forth the public en-
ergies, and making small means produce
great results. The progress of military-
knowledge and of the more refined arts
was contemporaneous with that of politics.
Most departments of science and the fine
arts, pursued with impatient zeal by the
highly sensitive Greeks, were carried by
them to a higher pitch of perfection than
elsewhere in ancient, and, in some respects,
in modern times; and their commerce, con-
ducted by means of their colonies on the
Black Sea, and on the coasts of Italy, Sic-
ily, and Gaul, was extensive and import-
ant.
" The pride, activity, and enterprise of
the Greeks, and, above all, their love of
liberty, bore them triumphantly through
all the difficulties of the Persian war (closed
B.C. 491); and the same features of char-
acter, differently developed, involved them
in intestine feuds. The Peloponnesian
War, which lasted nearly thirty years
(B.C. 431-404), by destroying their union
and exhausting their strength, paved the
way for their subjugation by Philip of Mac-
edon, who won the decisive battle of Chae-
ronea, B.C. 338. The brilliant conquests of
Alexander engaged them for a few years ;
but their courage was now enervated, and
their love of liberty all but extinguished.
'I'll" Achaean league proved a vain defense
against the power of Macedon ; and when
this kingdom fell, Greece was wholly un-
able to cope with the arms of Rome. The
contest was brief, and ended with the cap-
ture of Corinth, 146 B.C., from which time,
during 1350 years, it continued to be either
really or nominally a portion of the Roman
empire. Literature and the arts, long on
the decline, were at last destroyed by Jus-
tinian, who closed the schools of Athens.
" Alaric the Goth invaded the country
in the year 400, followed by Genseric and
Zaber-Khan in the sixth and seventh, and
by the Normans in the eleventh century.
After the Latin conquest of Constantino-
ple in 1204, Greece was parted into feudal
principalities, and governed by a variety
of Norman, Venetian, and Frankish no-
bles; but in 1261, with the exception of
Athens and Nauplia, it was reunited to the
Greek empire by Michael Paloeologus. In
1438 it was invaded by the Turks, who
finally conquered it in 1-181. The Vene-
tians, however, were not disposed to allow
its new masters quiet possession, and the
country during the sixteenth and seven-
teenth centuries was the theatre of obsti-
nate wars, which continued till the treat}'
of Passarovitz in 1718 confirmed the Turks
in their conquests. With the exception
of Mains, tho whole country remained un-
der their despotic sway till 1821, when the
991
CiKKECE.
[TURKEY AND GREECE.]
GKEECE.
Greeks once more awoke from their pro-
tracted lethargy, and asserted their claims
to a national existence and to the domin-
ion of the land possessed and ennobled by
their ancestors. The heads of the nobler
families and others interested in the re-
generation of their country formed a he-
teiria for concerting patriotic measures,
and in 1821 Yp.-ilunti proclaimed that
Greece had thrown off' the yoke of Turkey.
The revolution broke out simultaneously
in Greece and Wallachia, and was con-
tinued with various success and much
bloodshed till the great European powers
interfered, and the battle of Navurino
(Oct. 20, 1827) insured the independence
of Greece, which was reluctantly acknowl-
edged by the Porte in the treaty of Adria-
nople, 1829. The provisional government
which had been set on foot during the rev-
olutionary struggle was agitated by dis-
contents and jealousies, and the president,
Count Capo d'Istrias, was assassinated in
1831." The allied powers, having pre-
vioush' determined on erecting Greece into
a monarchy, offered the crown to Prince
Leopold of Saxc-Coburg (now King of Bel-
gium), who declined it ; finally it was con-
ferred on Otho, younger son of the King of
Bavaria, since dethroned.
It was offered, in 18G3, to Prince Wil-
liam of Denmark, who ascended the throne
October 31, with the title of George I. The
present government of Greece is a consti-
tutional and hereditary monarchy. The
legislative power, since 1864, is in the
hands of the king and the chamber of dep-
uties. The person of the king is inviola-
ble ; his ministers are responsible. The
right of vote begins at the age of 25, and
at 30 the electors are eligible for election.
The deputies are chosen for four years, I ut
the senators are appointed for life by the
king. They must, however, have att..i:ied
the age of 40. The population of Greece,
including the Ionian Islands, is 1, -157, 894.
That of Athens, with its harbor, Piraeus, is
50,798. The army amounts to 31,300 men,
viz. ,14,300 regular troops, and 17,000 ir-
regular. Navy, 34 vessels, 164 cannon,
and 13-10 men.
Money is kept in drachmas, piastres,
and paras; 40 paras = 1 piastre = 6 cents
U.S.; 1 drachma =17 cents U. S. There
are gold coins of 10, 20, 40, and 50 drach-
mas.
992
The Greeks are an active, hardy, and
brave race, ingenious, loquacious, and live-
ly. They are generally above the aver-
age height, and well shaped ; features reg-
ular and expressive ; eyes large, dark,
and animated ; complexion olive, and hair
long.
Mr. Hope says, " The complexion of the
modern Greek may receive a different cast
from different surrounding objects. The
core is still the same as in the days t f Peri-
cles. Credulity, versatility, and the tlih:t
for distinction frcm the eailie.-t peril ds
formed, still form, and ever will form the
basis of the Greek character.
"When patriotism, public spirit, and
pre-eminence in arts, science, literature,
and warfare were the road to distinction,
the Greeks shone the first of patriots, of
heroes, of painters, of poets, and of philoso-
phers. Now that craft and subtlety, ad-
ulation and intrigue, are the only paths to
greatness, the same Greeks arc what you
see them."
Travelers land at Pirajus, the port of
Athens, which is about six miles distant;
railway every hour. The price of a boat
to take you and your baggage from the
steamer is about 1 drachma. A little
i west of Pirneus, near the sea -shore, the
1 throne of Xerxes was erected, that he
might watch the progress of the battle
of Sulamis. Here he sat and saw the
defeat of his fleet. The macadamized road
to Athens follows the line of the most east-
ern of the long walls erected by Themis-
toc.les, remains of which are still visible.
Since January, 38G9, a rail-r< ad lias been
open from Piraeus to Athens, vhirh is the
first ever constructed on the i-oil of Greece.
The city of Athens owes its celebrity en-
tirely to its ancient greatness and the nu-
mrrmis remains of its former works of art.
It presents little of interest. Pop. (l^'8-l),
'84,905. The surrounding scenery is love-
ly, and the climate delightful, but the
streets are narrow and winding, with moan
and badly-built houses. The principal ho-
tels are the Grande Eretagne and D'Angle-
terre. The palace of the king is the prin-
cipal modern edifice. It was begun in 1836,
and finished in 1843. It is a large quad-
rangular building, heavy and monotonous
in style. The southern side, with an Ionic
portico, presents the best appearance. The
rooms are but poorly decorated ; the ball-
ATHENS.
[TURKEY AXD GREECE. J
room is the best, adorned with stuccoes and
arabesques in the Pompeian style. The
university, built in 1*:!7 by Mr. Hanson. ;i
Danish architect, is tlio finest modern build-
ing in Athens.
The Acropolis, or citadel, crowns the
summit of a rocky bill, which rises abrupt-
ly out of the plain in the. midst of the city.
It lias been a fortress from the earliest
ages ; it rises 150 feet. The walls, which
are built on the edge of the perpendicular
rock, form a circuit of nearly 7000 feet.
They are of great antiquity, and were
built partly by the Pelagians, by Themis-
tori 's and Cymon. by Valerian, and lat-
terly by tin; Turks and Venetians. A mar-
ble st.iirc.ise leads up to
The Piopylea, the entrance to the Acrop-
olis. The Propvlea were commenced 437
B.C., and lini>ht;d in live years. They re-
mained in almost perfect preservation un-
til the fourteenth century. This gateway
was of the Doric order; its central pedi-
ment was supported by six fluted marble
columns, o feet in diameter by 29 in height.
To-day but two of the six columns have
their capitals : thes . however, equal in
Iwauty tho-if of the Parthenon. The live
portals st 1! remain ; the one in the centre
is a third higlier and larger than the oth-
ers. Of the two wings of this facade, but
one remains on the left. This is the Piiin-
C'rtheca, supposed to foa the same described
by 1'ausanias. It serves as a museum for
all the statues, inscriptions, or other antiq-
uities found in the Acropolis. Near the
Propylaea stood the celebrated colossal
stitue of Minerva, executed by Phidias
after the battle- of Marathon, the height of
which was tin IV -t.
The Temple of Victor;/, without icings.
stands to the right of the entrance into the
Acropolis. This temple seems anterior to
the time of Pericles, and was probably
erected by Cymon. It was demolished by
the Turks in 1(>S7. when besieged by the
Venetians, for the purpose of constructing
a battery. It was restored during the
reign of King Otho, partly by the govern-
ment, and partly with funds subscribed in
England. Four pieces of the fricza are
uow in the British Museum.
On the platform of the Acropolis were
several temples and statues dedicated to
different gods, which have now almost en-
tirely disippenred. Fratrin nt> lie scat-
Voi.. II. U 2
tered in ever)' direction, and arc being col-
lected into the Pin'acotheca by the Archae-
ological Society of Athens.
The Purthtnon was built during tho ad-
ministration of Pericles. The exact year
in which it was begun is not known, but
it was lini>hed 436 B.C. It was 230 fcot
long by lni> wide, and sufficient now re-
mains to fill the spectator with astonish-
ment and awe. The cost of the building
was nearly three millions of dollars. The
cella, or walls of the principal building,
were surrounded with a peristyle contain-
ing 48 white marble columns of the Doric
order. These columns were 6 feet 2 inch-
es at the base, and 34 feet high. At both
ends of the cella was a vestibule raised two
steps above the platform, supported by six
columns each. The edifice was divided
into two apartments, the smaller of the
two, called the opisthodome, being C3 feet
broad and 42 deep, the ceiling of which
was supported by four columns. Here was
kept the public treasure. The other di-
vision was 100 feet deep by G3 broad ; the
ceiling was supported by 16 columns, the
whole material being of the finest white
marble. This portion of the building was
called the cella, and was so completely de-
stroyed that for a long time the disposition
of the interior was unknown. The cele-
brated frieze of the cella, representing in
bas-reliefs the faces of the gods, the cere-
monies of the temple, and horse and char-
iot races, has been transported almost en-
tirely to the British Museum. In the in-
terior of the cella stood the colossal st.it uo
of Minerva, covered with gold and ivory,
the Parthenon being dedicated to th.it god-
dess, who was the tutelary deity of tho
Athenians.
The Parthenon was repaired and embel-
lished by the Emperor Hadrian, and re-
mained in good preservation until 1(1*7.
during the Venetian sic-go, when the ex-
plosion of a powder magazine in the mid-
dle of the building tore off the roof and
overthrew a great part of the temple. Aft-
er the conquest of the place, the destruc-
tion wns still carried on, and the
Morosini caused the horses and chariot < f
Minerva, admirably preserved, to be taken
from the pediment. His order was so bad-
ly executed that the whole group fell, and
was dashed to pieces on the rocks,
temple has also greatly suffered in mod-
993
[TURKEY AND GREECE.]
ATHEN&
crn times through Lord Elgin, who carried
away about 200 feet of the frieze, the stat-
ues from the pediment, and every thing
upon which he could lay his handr all
now to be seen in the British Museum.
At the northeast of the Parthenon stood
the temple of the Erecktheiwn, dedicated to
the joint worship of Minerva and Neptune.
It is a rectangular building, 90 feet long,
supposed to have been erected during the
time of Cymon and Pericles. On the
northern and western sides are porticoes
supported by Ionic columns ; the southern
portico is supported by beautiful female
tigures or Caryatides. But five columns
now remain of the principal or western
portico, and they are the finest type ever
seen of the Ionic order. Of the portico of
the Caryatides but three of the ancient
figures remain ; the others have been re-
stored. The whole edifice was of Pentelic
marble, with a frieze of black marble of
Eleusis. On this black ground were bas-
reliefs in polychrome, fragments of which
have been found, and are now in the Pina-
cotheca. Part of the roof fell in during
the siege of Athens in 1827. The sacred
olive-tree grew in this temple, which was
produced from the earth by Minerva dur-
ing her contest with Neptune for the soil
of Attica. It was burned by the Persians
on gaining possession of the temple, but it
grew an arm's length in a single night on
being reconquered by the Athenians. Ce-
crops is also supposed to be buried in the
portico of the Caryatides.
The Acropolis, which was the pride of
Greece, the perfection of all art, and envy
of the world, had four distinct characters,
viz., the fortress of the city, the sacred
shrine for all offering, the treasury, and
the museum of art of the Athenian people.
A short distance to the west of this is
the A reopaffus, or Mars' Hill, of still great-
er interest to the Christian student as the
spot from which the Apestle Paul address-
ed the assembled multitude of ancient Ath-
ens. On the eastern end was situated the
celebrated Court of the Areopagus, the
highest judicial court of Athens, whose ex-
istence is dated from the time of Cecrops.
According to fable, Mars himself was
judged here for the murder of Alirothius,
son of Neptune. The judges were taken
from the best families in Athens, and ap-
pointed for life. The tribunal assembled
994
during the night. Here Socrates was tried
for theism.
The first hill to the southwest of the Are-
opagus is the Pnyx, where the citizens met
to decide all great questions of the day,
such as peace and war. The Bema is the
stone pulpit whence the orator harangued
the people, which, together with the steps
leading to it and the surrounding seats, is
cut in the solid rock. This pulpit is turned
from the sea, and therefore is not the trib-
une of Themistocles, Pericles, and Alcibia-
des, which Plutarch distinctly informs us
looked toward the sea.
Among the relics yet remaining in
Athens are : The Tower (>f tfie Winds, or
the water-clock of Andronicus Cyrrliestes,
is an octagonal tower situated at the foot
of the Acropolis. Its eight sides face in
the direction of the eight winds into which
the Athenian compass is divided. The
symbolical figures of the different winds
are sculptured on the frieze. Above the
figures on each side was a sun-dial. The
summit of the tower was ornamented with
a Triton in bronze, mounted on a pivot, and
turning with the wind. The water-clock
of Andronicus within the tower was sup-
plied from the fountain of the Acropolis by
an aqueduct.
The Lantern of Demosthenes is a small
circular building of the Corinthian order,
constructed in white marble. Six fluted
columns support u beautifully ornamented
frieze, the bas-reliefs of which have been
latelv much injured. This building now
bears the name of the Choragic Jfontiment
, of Lysicrates, and is the only remaining
| temple of the series that ornamented the
Street of Tripods.
The Arch of Hadrian stood between old
Athens (the city of Theseus) and new
Athens (the city of Hadrian). It is built
of Pentelic marble, and is of the Corinthian
order, but it is of a style so peculiar as to
induce many to believe that the arch was
not built by the emperor, whose good taste
is well known, but by the Athenians in his
honor.
The Temple of Jupiter Olympus stood in
the new city, or Hadrianopolis. It was
begun by Pisistratus 530 B.C., and contin-
ued by his son, but after their expulsion
the works were suspended nearly 400 years.
| It was continued at different timcf. but was
not completed until the reign of Hadrian
ATHENS.
[TURKEY AND GREECE.]
JEQITXA,
(117-138 A.D.). According to Mr. Pen-
rose, the temple was 550 feet long by 370
wide. It consisted of a cella surrounded
by a peristyle, with 10 columns on the front
and 20 at the sides. The peristyle ~uas
quadruple at the pronaos ;utd posticum,
and double at the sides, making in all 120
columns. Of these only 10 remain ; they
are of the Corinthian order, above 6i) feet
in height, and 7 in diameter. A great
many of the remains of this enormous tem-
ple have entirely disappeared. It was prob-
ably used as a quarry by the Athenians dur-
ing the Middle Ages.
The Prison of Socrates is the name giv-
en to several small dungeons cut in the
rock at the foot of the Musseum Hill. In
one of them Socrates is believed to have
been imprisoned, and to have drunk the
poisoned cup; of this, however, there is no
proof.
The Theatre of Bacchus was built about
500 B.C. by the architects Democrates and
Anaxagoras. The ranges of seats for the
spectators were cut in the side of the hill
of the Acropolis, in the form of a hemicy-
cle. The stage and orchestra were built
of marble, and decorated with great splen-
dor. It was not terminated until 340 B.C.,
during the administration of Lycurgus, but
it had long served for the representation
of the works of yEschylus, Euripides, and
Aristophanes. Above the seats cut in the
rock, and below the wall of Cymon, is the
entrance to a small cavern, which was con-
verted into a temple by Thrasyllus, the
victorious choregus, and dedicated to Bac-
chus. The entrance was decorated with a
portico in Pentelic marble, and on the en-
tablature was a colossal statue of Bacchus,
now in the British Museum.
The Temple of Theseus is the best pre-
served of all the temples of Athens or
Greece, and even of those that remain in
Italy and Sicily. It was built by Cymon,
eon of Miltiades, to receive the remains of
Theseus, which he had found, by the assist-
ance of an oracle, in the island of Scyros.
It is a peripteral hexastyle, with C columns
on each front and 13 on the sides. The
honors of this temple were divided with
Hercules, and 10 metopes on the eastern
facade represent the exploits of that hero,
while 4 only (those on the sides) are devo-
ted to Theseus. The walls and 34 columns
of the Doric order still remain. This build-
ing was at one time converted into a church,
and dedicated to St. George.
If remaining any time at Athens, be par-
ticular to make the ascent of Mount Lyca-
liettus, and to visit the village and plain of
Marathon and the quarries of Pentelicus.
Mount l.yfiilvtlns is the peaked MI mm it,
considerably higher than the citadel, on the
northeastern side of the city. This hill is
called by the modern Greeks the Mountain
of St. George, from the church dedicated
to that saint which crowns the summit.
Lycabettus is the most favorable point for
studying the city of Athens and its sur-
roundings, and for tracing the boundaries
of the ancient city ; the view obtained is
truly superb.
Mount Pentelicus rises 3GCO feet above
the level of the sea, and is at a distance of
about 10 miles from Athens. The princi-
pal quarry is about halfway up the moun-
tain, and the traces of the work of the an-
cient Athenians are plainly visible. Near
the quarry is a grotto of stalactites about
50 feet high and 90 deep ; at the entrance
a small chapel has been erected, ornament-
ed with veiy poor paintings. The ascent
of the mountain requires about two hours.
The view obtained from the summit is in-
teresting, both from the immensity of the
panorama and the scenes which it recalls.
The excursion to Marathon may be madu
in one day by ordering a relay of horses at
Cephissia, but it is better to devote two for
the purpose, taking Mount Pentelicus on
the way.
We refer travelers to Dodworth's Athens
for fuller particulars. If you prefer riding
from Athens to Piraeus instead of taking
the train, be particular in making a bar-
gain for a carriage, else you will be swin-
dled. A Greek hackman is worse than one
of New York, and that is as bad as the law-
allows. If alone, $1 is sufficient for both
ways; if with company, fay four persons,
$1 50, and the driver will be well paid.
From Pinrus to Corinth by shr/ina, ]''pi-
daurux, N(nip ! i<i. and Argos. The island
of ./:'f/inn is about 20 miles distant from Pi-
raeus. It owed its name to the daughter
of the river-god Asopus, and was in ancient
times the seat of a flourishing colony of
about '200, (Hid persons. To-day there are
not more than !)(IOO inhabiting the island.
Their decline began in the time of Pericles,
when they engaged in a naval war with
995
[TURKEY AND GREECE.]
ARGOS.
the Athenians, and suffered severe defeat.
The modern city of vEgina offers nothing
of remarkable interest. The Museum, Li-
brary, and Lazaretto, erected during the
presidency of Capo d'Istrias for barracks,
are the finest buildings. The antiquities
of the Museum of ^Egina have all been
transported to Athens. Near the port may
be seen the ruins of a Temple of Venus; one
column only remains standing, most of the
materials having been emplo3 T ed by Capo
d'Istrias in the construction of the quay.
The Temple of Minerva, known by many
as the Temple of Jupiter Panhelleniifs, is
situated on the coast, about two hours and
a half from ^Egina. It stands on the sum-
mit of a hill commanding a view of most
of the island, and is believed to be one of
the most ancient temples in Greece. Twen-
ty-two Doric columns, with their architrave,
are still standing. It was built of a soft j
porous stone coated with a stucco. Under
the temple is a cave, near the entrance to
which were found, in 1811, the sculptures
of the pediments, which are now in the Mu-
seum of Munich.
From JEgina. to Pidhavro, the ancient
Epidaurus, is about 11 miles. Epidaurus
was at one tims one of the greatest com-
mercial cities of the Peloponnesus, and sent
its ships to aid in the battle of Salamis ;
to-day it has barely 180 inhabitants, and
but few small boats. At a short distance
from here is Priatha, where the first Con-
stituent Assembly met in 1821.
From Epidaurus to Nauplia, by way of
Hiero, requires about one day. Hiero was
one of the most celebrated places in Greece,
and was frequented by invalids from all
parts of the country, who came here to re-
cover health. The splendor of the offer-
ings with which it was ornamented, its
sanctity and riches, were renowned. The
sanctuary was situated at one end of the
plain, and was inclosed on two sides l>v
steep hills, and on the two others by walls,
remains of which may still be seen. Ev-
ery four years were celebrated ihe fetes of
-.Ksculapius. Among the antiquities, the
theatre of Polycletus is the most interest-
ing, and one of the best preserved of the
kind in Greece. P'ifty-four rows of seats
in white marble still remain entire; the
whole theatre was capable of containing
12,000 persons. Continuing our route, and
passing through Ligourio, we arrive at
096
Nauplia, the most important city of Greece
in a military point of view ; it is surround-
ed by fine fortifications, and protected by
the forts of Palamsde and Itskale, the lat-
ter built on the site of the ancient Acropo-
lis. The founder of the city wasNauplius,
father of the unfortunate Palamede, the
victim of Ulysses. Nauplia rose to some
importance during the time of the Cru-
sades, and, being taken by the French and
Venetians in 1205, became the capital of a
duchy belonging to the family of Ville-
hardouin. From 1829 to 1834 it was the
seat of the Greek government, and in-
creased considerably in size and industry.
The Church of St. Spiridion is generally
visited by strangers; here Capo d'Istrias
was assassinated. His place of residence
is also shown.
The Fortress of Palamede stands on the
summit of a mountain of the same name,
which rises 712 feet above the level of the
sea. The first fortifications were built by
the Franks ; more were added by the Ve-
netians, and it is at the present day consid-
ered impregnable. The citadel incloses
seven forts, and is in the form of a penta-
gon. During the latter War of Indepen-
dence it was conquered only by famine.
Leaving Nauplia, a ride of 2- hours brings
us to Argos, passing on the way the ruins
of Tiryns.
A rgos is a large town of 4 or 5000 in-
habitants, lying at the foot of a hill, which
is the Larissa or citadel. It has been the
scene of so many contests that the remains
of antiquity are scarce. The theatre, situ-
ated above the village, is cut in the side of
the hill Larissa. It was capable of contain-
ing 20,000 persons, and more than sixty
rows of seats still remain in a good state of
preservation. Near by are the ruins of a
Roman construction in brick. The citadel,
which crowns the top of the hill, occupies
the site of the ancient acropolis, and in its
walls may be seen the columns and other
materials which formed a portion of that
edifice. From Argos to Mycence requires
one hour and a half. This city was built
by Perseus, 1300 years B.C., and was a
place of great importance, being the capi-
tal of Agamemnon until 468, when it was
taken by the Argives. It was the theiitro
of many crimes, which have inspired the
tragic poets; here Agamemnon was assas-
sinated by-iEgistheus and Clytemnestra.
MYCF.N.K.
[TURKEY AND GREECE.]
ELKCSI-;.
The Citadel stands on the summit of a
steep hill, and is surrounded bj- walls 20
feet high. The entrance to the citadel is
through the celebrated (jtite <>f /.long. This
is composed of three ininien>e blocks, the
one forming the lintel being 15 feet long.
OH this rests a triangular block of lim -
stone, with a bas-relief representing two
lions face to face, with their fore paws rest-
ing uii the base of a column which sepa-
ritos them. The heads of the lions are
:o.)\v gone. The approach to this gate is
through an avenue 50 feet long and 30
will.', with a wall on each side.
Tha Treasury ofAtreus is a subterranean
construction, |Hjrlectly preserved, common-
ly called the Tomb of Agamemnon. An
avenue 20 feet long, now in ruins, led to
tha door of the building, on each side of
which stood two columns. The door is
formed of three large blocks, the lintel be-
ing 30 feet long. Above the lintel is a tri-
angular empty space, supposed to have
been occupied by a bas-relief similar to the
Gate of the Lions. The building is di-
vided into two chambers. The first is of
circular form, surmounted by a dome 40
feet in height by 45 in diameter. The sum-
mit of the dome opens on the upper p.irt
of the hill in which the monument is cut.
The traces of copper nails found in the
walls prove this chamber to have been cov-
ered \\it\\ brazen plates, as was customary
in the time of the early Greeks, and as Pau-
sanias describes the chamber to be in which
Dana; was confined by Acrisius at Argos.
The second chamber is square and small,
roughly cut in the rock, and served proba-
bly as a place of sepulchre, while in the
first were placed arms, jewels, and precious
ornaments, as was the custom of the Greeks
in their funeral monuments, and which con-
sequently gave them the name of treasu-
ri -. Not far from here are three tombs,
coiistrui t;'(l exactly like that of Agamem-
non, but now entirely in ruins. On the
northern side of the Acropolis are also the
remains of an ancient gate, defended by a
long avenue like tin- Gate of Lions.
This time from Mycenae to Corinth is
about SJ hours. Corinth was founded 1900
years B.C., and was one of the most opu-
lent cities of ancient Greece. Her pecul-
iar position on the isthmus rendered her
the commercial centre between Europe and
Asia, and the sources of her wealth and
power were increased by the Isthmi.iii
(iaini-s. which took place in the neighbor-
hood every three years. In 'J24 !!.('. she
joined the Achii'an League, and became the
seat of the as.-eml>li<-> of that confedera-
tion. She excited the cupidity of the Ro-
mans, and was taken by them under Mum-
mius (UC), when the city was almost en-
tirely destroyed. It was rebuilt by Julius
Csesar, but was again devastated by Alaric
the Goth, by the Slavonians, the Latins,
the Turks, the Knights of Malta, and the
Venetians. In 1715 it fell into the hands
of the Turks, in whose power it remained
until 1821. It is now a miserable and
thinly populated village. The only ruins
of antiquity are those of the Temple, situ-
ated wet of the modern village. Seven
columns still remain, live looking west,
and three toward the south (the column
forming the angle being twice counted).
Five have their entablature still resting
upon them, forming the angle of the build-
ing. The columns are of the Doric order,
but heavy and ill proportioned ; they are 5
feet 10 inches in diameter at the base, and
arc formed of limestone covered with stuc-
co. Their appearance proves them to be
anterior to the temple of Egina, or to the
temple of Theseus at Athens. It is uncer-
tain to what divinity this building was con-
secrated ; some think to Fortune, others to
i Minerva. Not far from the temple are the
ruins of some Roman baths.
The Acro-Corinthtu, the celebrated for-
tress of Corinth, stands at an elevation of
1800 feet, and, after Fort Palamede at Nau-
plia, is the finest in Greece. There is but
one point from which it may be annoyed
j by cannon, of which Mohammed II. took
advantage in his siege, but before the in-
troduction of artillery it was considered
impregnable. Within the fortress there is
little of interest, every description of build-
ing being mingled there in a mass. Sev-
eral cisterns, hewn in the rock, receive
rain - water, besides two natural springs
which rise in the hill. The panorama ob-
tained from the fortress repays the diffi-
culty of the ascent.
From Athens to JfMMJMyU by Eleusis,
Meyara, Corinth, Afegaspdion, Helice, Vos-
iiid J'li/ras.
Eleusis, the first town on this route, owed
its celebrity to the temples of Ceres and
Proserpine. It formed one of the twelve
997
MKGASPELION.
[TURKEY AND GREECE.]
LET AUTO.
original states of Attica. The ancient tem-
ple of Ceres was burned by the Persians
in 484, and restored in the time of Peri-
cles. The plan was designed by Ictinus,
the architect of the Parthenon, and the
temple is described by Strabo as the largest
in Greece. One column and a part of the
wall are all that now remain. During
the dominion of the Romans, Eleusis owed
great prosperity to the celebration of its
mysteries. The city was destroyed by
Alaric 396 A.D. The modern village pre-
sents little of interest. Eleusis is four
hours from Athens, and four hours more
bring us to Megara, one of the most flour-
ishing cities in Greece during the seventh
century. The temples described by Pau-
sanias have entirely disappeared ; no ruins
remain to attract the traveler. The peo-
ple of Megara were renowned for their gay-
ety. and comedy is said to have arisen here.
This city was also the birthplace of Euclid.
The time from Megara to Corinth is 11
hours ; the latter has been described above.
Meyaspelion is about two days' journey
from Corinth. The convent, one of the
earliest monastic buildings in Greece, is
said by the monks to have been partly
built by the Greek emperors John Canta-
cuzene and Constantine Paljeologus. It
is a wall built in the front of an immense
cavern which forms the interior of the con-
vent. In the church is kept a picture of
the Virgin, attributed to St. Luke, which
is held in great veneration throughout
Greece. It is said to have spoken sev-
eral times during the War of Indepen-
dence, encouraging the Greeks, and also to
have wept on the occasion of a defeat. In
the floor of the church is a mosaic repre-
senting the sun, moon, and an eagle with
two heads, in honor of the emperors who
endowed the convent. The monks are
about three hundred in number, lazy and
illiterate, having a greater knowledge of
fire-arms than of the dead languages. This
they proved by their spirited defense of
the convent in 1826, when besieged by
Ibrahim Pasha. About three hours and a
half from Megaspelion once stood Helice,
one of the twelve cities of Achaia, which
was swallowed by an earthquake 373 B.C.
Two hours more bring us to
Vostizza, formerly yEgium, mentioned by
Homer, and one of the chief cities of the
Achaian League ; it is now a small town
998
of 4500 inhabitants. Of the ancient build-
ings nothing remains. The modern vil-
lage was destroyed by an earthquake in
1819, but afterward was rebuilt on a much
larger scale. The distance from Vostizza
to Patras is accomplished in about eight
hours.
Palrag. The Hotel of Great Britain is the
best. Steamers : Austrian Lloyds leave
for Missolonghi, Zante, Cephalonia, St.
Maura, and Corfu, even- Saturday ; for
Lepanto, Vostizza, Amphissa, and Loutra-
ki, on Thursdays. Patras was the only
one of the twelve cities of Achaia that up-
held the Athenians in the Peloponneshn
War. The city was partly destroyed dur-
ing the war with the Romans, and after-
ward rebuilt by Augustus. Under the
Greek emperors Patras became a duchy.
After belonging for some time to the Ve-
netians, it fell into the hands of the Turks,
in whose power it remained until 1821,
when it was the first to rise in the War of
Independence. The modern city is situ-
ated about 550 yards from the sea, and is
the first commercial town of continental
Greece.
Missolonc/ki has been immortalized by
events which occurred during the War of
Independence. Here, in 1822, Mavrocor'
dato, with 500 men, sustained a siege of two
months against a Turkish force of 1-1,000,
commanded by Omar ben Vrioni. In 1825
it was again besieged by the Ottoman
army, and held out for a year against the
repeated assaults of an immensely superior
force. In April, 1826, the besieged deter-
mined to cut their way through the ranks
of their opponents and escape. Placing
the women in their centre, dressed as men,
they sallied forth, but the enemy had be-
come aware of their intention, and but 2000
escaped. The remainder determined to
sell their lives as dearly as possible, and
allured the Turks in the neighborhood of
the powder magazine, when the whole ex-
ploded, burying conqueror and conquered
in a common tomb. Lord Byron died at
Missolonghi in 1824.
From, Missohmffhi to A /hens by Lcpanto,
Galixidi, Amphissa, Delphi, Lebadea, and
Thebes.
Lepanto, about seven hours from Misso-
longhi, is celebrated for the naval battle
fought off the gulf among the Curzolari
Islands, to which it gave its name. Ths
DELPHI.
[TURKEY AND GREECE.]
MOUNT PARNASSUS.
port is small, and of a circular form, with
a very narrow entrance flanked by small
towers ; the water is too shallow to allow
any but small vessels to enter.
Gcdixidi is situated at the extremity of
a rocky promontory, and occupies the site
of ancient Evantha. It possesses two good
ports, and a large quantity of merchant
vessels. The town was burned by the
Turks In 1821, but has since risen from its
ruins. The route from Galixidi to Am-
phissa occupies about four hours, and is
both fatiguing and uninteresting.
Amphissa or Salona is charmingly situ-
ated about ten miles from the sea, and
surrounded by olive groves. The castle
stands on the foundations of the Acropolis,
considerable portions of which still remain.
In the interior are the ruins of two church-
es, Fratik and Byzantine. Opposite the
village is an antique grotto, containing, ac-
cording to the tradition of the country, the
tomb of the Egyptian Phocas.
Delphi or Castri owes its celebrity and j
existence to the Pythian oracle. The sane- !
tuary was for a longtime a dependency of
( 'ri-sa, until gradually a city rose around
the temple, and became independent about ;
595 B.C. The oracle played a most im-
portant rule in the history of Greece ; no
war was declared, no enterprise under-
taken without consulting the Pythia. The
temple was destroyed in 548 by fire, and
reconstructed with greater magnificence by
contributions from all Greece. The sums
expended amounted to nearly $600,000.
In 480 B.C. Xerxes sent a detachment to
pillage the temple ; frightful phenomena
were manifested ; enormous rocks rolled \
from the mountains upon the Persians, and
crushed a great number ; the rest, panic-
stricken, escaped. The temple was, how-
ever, pillaged by Sylla, and the oracie was
abolished by the Emperor Xero. It was
restored by Hadrian and the Antonines to
its ancient splendor. It was consulted by
Julian, but finally abolished by Thcodosi-
us. The modern village of Castri occupies
the site of the ancient city ami of the tem-
ple of Apollo, and many of the present
houses are constructed of their materials.
Some of the walls still remain, and serin
to have formed terraces rising one above
another, which the nature of the ground
rendered necessary for the establishment
of the sacred edifice. Conjectures only can \
be made concerning the fissure over which
the sacred tripod was placed whence is-
sued the intoxicating vapors which threw
the Pythia into a prophetic ecstasy.
The Castalian fountain is situated at tha
entrance of a deep and narrow gorge, and,
after threading its way almost impercepti-
bly among the rocks, forms a little brook
flowing toward the monastery of Panagia,
and finally losing itself in the Pleistus.
At the source is a large quadrangular ba-
sin, with steps to it cut in the rock, and
vulgarly called the bath of the Pythia.
The monastery of Panagia marks the site
of the ancient gymnasium. In the gar-
den is a fine Hellenic wall, besides frag-
ments of statues and two large bas-reliefs,
one representing a torso and the other a
quadriga.
Travelers wishing to visit the Corycian
Cave, and make the ascent of Mount Par-
nassus, may start from Delphi or Arachova.
Mules and guides are more easily procured
at the latter place. The price for a mule
and guide is $1 50 or $2. Those not wish-
ing to make the entire ascent may go to the
Corycian Cave, and return to Arachova, an
excursion of five hours, while those who
ascend the mountain descend to Davlia.
The Corycian Cave is reached after a
steep ascent. It is a fine grotto, 300 feet
long by 190 wide. This cavern was con-
secrated to Pan and the Kymphs. Majes-
tic stalactites hang from the roof in most
graceful forms, and the stalagmites on the
floor and sides are still more fantastic. At
the end of the vault is a small damp pas-
sage, leading into a much smaller chamber.
From the most ancient times this grotto
served as a place of refuge for the inhabit-
ants of Delphi, and also in later days as the
rendezvous of the bandits of Parnassus.
Returning from the Corycian Cave to
Arachova, and starting from that village,
the ascent of Mount Parnassus requires four
or five hours. At the summit is a small
plain, lying at the foot of a crater whose
sides are the highest points of the moun-
tain : these, however, am very difficult of
axvnt, being covered with ice and snow,
The view obtained from the mountain i-
glorious. To the north and northeast may
be seen the plain of Thessaly, the Pindus
with its branches, and the snowy top of
Olympus ; also a vague outline of Mount
Athos. On the east the plains of Boectia
999
CH.SRONKA.
[TURKEY AND GREECE.]
TRIPOLITZA.
and the yEgean Sea, dotted with numerous
islands. On the .south the Gulf of Corinth
and the Moreii; and on the west the moun-
tains of ytolia,of Acarnania, and tlie Ionian
Sea. The descent of the mountain is made
on the southeastern side, and occupies about
4J hours before reaching Davlia.
Going from Davlia to Lebadea, we pass
through Chaeronea, the theatre of many
great scenes. Standing, as it does, in a
plain at the entrance of Bceotia, it has been
the l.attL'-ground of many armies. In 447
B.C. the Boeotians vanquished the Athe-
nians ; iii 008 Philip of Macedon gained
the battle against the Boeotians and Athe-
nians, which accomplished the subjugation
of Grecca ; and in 86 the generals or r\iith-
ridates were vanquished by SylLi. The
last battle was described by Hularch.
That great writer was born, lived, and
died in Cha;ronea. Tiie most interesting
monument in Chaeronca is the marble lion
erected on the tomb of the Boeotians who
were slain in the battle with Philip. This
monument is now in fragments, having
been blown up with gunpowder, during
the War of Independence, by the patriot
Odysseus, who supposed it to contain hid-
den treasure. The head is happily un-
touched, and of the finest workmanship.
In tho Church of Panagia, in the city, is
shown a marble seat, called the throne of
Plutarch; also several inscriptions illus-
trative of the worship of Osiris.
Lebadea is two hours distant from Chrc-
ronea, and situated on the bank of theHer-
cyn:i. This river is a torrent which de-
scends from Mount Helicon, and rushes
with great force from a narrow gorge, the
site of the ancient Hieron, or sanctuary of
Trophonius, for which Lebadea was so cel-
ebrated. The two springs at the southern
extremity of the village, one hot and one
cold, are supposed to be those of Mnemos-
yne and Lethe, mentioned by Pausanias ;
but as neither of these springs rise in a
cavern, as described by him, there is still
some doubt of their identity.
Thebe* (1 hours, 30 minutes) is situated
on an insulated hill, the summit of which
was formerly occupied by the Acropolis.
All traces of its ancient splendor have dis-
appeared. The modern village is small
and poor, situated between two streams,
Dirce and Ismenus. Eleven hours' jour-
ney brings you to Athens.
1000
From Athens to Chalcis, the direct route
requires but six hours. Chalcis, the capi-
tal of the island of Kuboea, or Negropont.
is situated on the shore, and communicates
by a bridge with the Boeotian coast. The
first bridge built over the Euripus was dur-
ing the Peloponnesian War; it was fortified
i in the time of Alexander, but 140 years later
it had entirely disappeared. It was again
rebuilt about 167 B.C. The Euripus is the
narrowest portion of the Channel of Egri-
pos. A small island stands in the centre,
connected by a stone bridge with the Boeo-
tian shore, and by a turning-bridge with
Chalcis, allowing the passage of vessels.
It is under this bridge that occurs the phe-
nomenon of the tides, unexplained at the
present day. The current flows for some
time with great rapidity from north to
south, and, after a few minutes of immo-
bility, flows as quickly from south to north.
These changes occur as often as fourteen
times in twenty-four hours. The fortress
of Chalcis stands at the entrance of the
bridge, and is a construction of different
ages, combining the square towers of an-
tiquity with Venetian bastions and Turk-
ish walls. In the interior is an enormour,
cannon, similar to the one used by Moham-
med II. at the siege of Constantinople.
The island of Euboea was one of the prin-
cipal possessions of the republic of Venice
in the days of its prosperity, and the Lion
of St. Mark may still be seen over one of
its gates. It was conquered by Moham-
med II. in 1470.
From Athens tosEgina, Nauplia, Tripo-
litza, Sparta, Leondari, Andritsena, Olym-
pla, Elis, and Patras.
The trip from Athens to Nauplia lias
been described above.
Tripolitza was founded in 1770, and be-
came, during the dominion of the Turks,
the capital of the Morca. It was taken by
the Greeks in 1820, but, being reconquered
by Ibrahim Pasha, was razed to the ground,
and is now only rising from its ruins. From
Tripolitza to Sparta, eleven hours. This
city was founded about 11)10 B.C., but its
great prosperity dates from the time of Ly-
curgus, 845 B.C., whose famous code in
limiting the royal power, and giving more
place to the democracy, rendered Sparta,
by its rigid laws, a city of warriors. From
this time it gained in power, and, in two
bloody wars with Messenc and Argos, o!>
LEONDARI.
[TURKEY AND GREECE.]
NAVARIN.
tained supremacy over the entire Pelo-
ponnesus. The jealousy of Sparta and
Athens caused the Peloponnesian War,
which lasted from 431 to 404, and ended in
the defeat of Athens. This victory, how-
ever, was the cause of great evil to the
Spartans, causing them to relax their rigid
laws, and to introduce the luxuriant habits
of the Athenians. From this time it began
to decline. Sparta was taken by Alaric in
the fourth century ; in 14CO she fell into
the hands of Mohammed II., and was de-
stroyed by Malatesta in 1463. Modern
Sparta is a very pretty village, containing
several fine houses, a bazar, and a cafe.
No ruins remain but a quadrangular mon-
ument called the Tomb of Leonidas, and
the Theatre. The latter was not used for
dramatic exhibitions, which were forbid-
den by the code of Lycurgus, but for gym-
nastic exercises and public assemblies.
The central part of the edifice is cut in the
hill, but the wings are artificial, and com-
posed of quadrangular stones, uncemented.
The seats have been taken away by the in-
habitants of Mistra, to whom the building
served for a quarry.
Leowlariis about eight hours and a half
from Sparta, and is a town of picturesque
appearance. Its old castle stands in ruins
on a hill commanding the city. Continu-
.ing our route, we reach A ndritsena in about
ten hours. This is a pretty village, re-
markable for its cleanliness and the air of
comfort pervading it. From Andritsena
we reach Olympia in seven hours and a
half. This was not, in ancient times, a
city, but a sacred wood consecrated to Ju-
piter, under the name of A Ids. Here were
celebrated, every four years, the Olympic
games, when all hostilities were laid aside,
and the most implacable enemies met on
this neutral ground, peacefully to contest
for a prize. The Olympic Games were first
permanently established in 884; but the
era of the Olympiads was first reckoned in
776 B.C., after the victory of Coroebus.
The only ruins now to be seen in Olympia
are those of the temple of Jupiter." The
fluted Doric columns are of enormous size.
It was in this temple that stood the colos-
sal statue of Jupiter Olympus, the chef-
d'oeuvre of Phidias, made in gold and ivorv,
and counted one of the seven wonders of
tho world. Ancient Elis was situated on
the banks of the Peneus, and occupied a
mountain called Belvedere by the Vene-
tians, now called Kaloskopi. About twelve
hours brings us to Patras, already de-
scribed.
From Sparta to Mistra, Kalamata, Co-
ron, Modon, Navarin, and Pylos.
Mistra was founded in 1207, by William
de Villehardouin, and rose to great import-
ance. The city was almost entirely de-
stroyed by the Turks during the War of In-
dependence, and now presents nothing but
a mass of ruined houses and churches, the
population having almost entirely removed
to Sparta. From the citadel, situated on
the summit of a hill half an hour distant, a
fine view may be obtained.
Kalamata occupies the site of ancient
Pherae, often mentioned by Homer, and is
at the present day the most important city
of Messenia. It is situated about a mile
from the sea, on the left bank of the Ne-
don, and carries on a considerable trade in
oil, silk, and figs. Nine hours brings us to
Coron, founded by Epaminondas. Of the
ancient city there are few remains. Part
of the ancient mole which protected the
port may be seen, also the walls of the
Acropolis, barely rising above the ground.
Recent researches have brought to light
two sarcophagi, both well preserved ; on
one is a fine bas-relief representing a se-
ries of combats against the Centaurs.
Modon is reached in six hours. It is
situated on a rocky promontory, which ad-
vances toward the island of Sapienza. A
little island, surmounted by a tower, which
is situated at the entrance of the port, com-
municates with the town by a bridge. The
citadel and fortifications of Modon are im-
portant. In the centre of the public square,
which dates from the Venetians, stands a
column in Oriental granite, with a Byzan-
tine capital, on which may still be distin-
guished a Latin inscription in honor of the
Venetians and the Doge Morosini.
Navarin was founded during the Middle
Ages, and replaced the ancient Navarin or
Pylos. It was taken by the Turks in 1500,
and later by the Venetians, who retained it
until 1715. It is principally celebrated for
the great naval battle which occurred here
in I*L'S, between the English. French, and
Russian fleets on one side, and the Turkish
fleet on the other. The latter was defeated
with fearful loss. The citadel of Navarin is
very strong, and was constructed by the
1001
PYLOS.
[TURKEY AND GREECE.]
PYLOS.
French on the ruins of an old Venetian
castle. From Navarin an excursion may
be made by boat to Pylos, or ancient Nava-
rin. Pylos was situated on a lofty prom-
1002
ontory surrounded by a wall built in the
form of a triangle. The castle, situated
on the summit of the hill, is all that now
remains of the ancient city.
A TABLE OF COINS.
English and French Values in Dollars and Cents, others in English Currency.
GREAT BRITAIN.
Sovereign =$4.83
Half Sovereign = 2.41}
Crown = 1.20
Half Crown = .60
Florin, or two shillings = .46
Half florin, or one shilling = .23
Sixpence = -H.J6
Fourpence = .07%
One penny (nearly) = .02
FRANCE.
Double Napoleon =$7.70
Napoleon = 3.85
Half Napoleon
Quarter Napoleoil
Five francs = .95
One franc = .19
Half franc (fifty centimes) = .09)
Twenty centimes = .03 9 /io
Ten centimes (two sous) = .01 93 / 100
Five centimes (one sou) = .00' 8 /ioo
ITALY.
= .
100 centimes = 1 franc; 100 centesimi = 1 lira.
Italian paper currency is much depreciated in
value, the present rate being about 27 lire=l
sovereign.
HOLLAND,
fi cents = about Id.
100 cents = 1 florin or guilder = about Is. 7d.
1 gold ducat = " 9s. 4d.
1 gold 10 llorin piece = " 16s. 6d.
NORTH GERMANY.
1 mark = 100 pfjj. = 1 shilling = 1 fr. 25c.
20 mark piece (gold) = 1 English sovereign.
AUSTRIA.
10 florins = 1 = 25 francs.
1 Austrian florin = 100 kreutzcrs = 2 shillings.
10 kreutzer pieces = '/io florin = about 2'..d.
kr. ps. S. (!erm. =9 kr. Austrian = about 2,J^d.
I 1 !.,; (I S. Germ. = 1X florins Austrian =3s.
1 * II " = 85~kreutzers " =ls. 8d.
:Wkr. " =50 " = lOd.
l ' = 1* ' : " = K<1.
3 " " = 4 " " = Id.
The Austrian paper currency is much depre-
ciated, the discount constantly varying.
EGYPT.
1 piastre = 2#d.
4 piastres 35 paras = Is.
97 piastres 20 ' =1.
Egyptian sovereign = 21s.
RUSSIA.
100 kopecs = 1 silver rouble about 3s. Id,
3 roubles = 1 ducat = "9s. 3d.
1 gold half imperial = " 16s. 4d.
1 paper rouble = 2s. 5d.
SPAIN AND PORTUGAL.
The money in Portugal affords but little diffi-
culty. It is reckoned by reis, 1000 reis = one
dollar. English gold is current in Portugal at
the rate of 4500 reis = JEl; 20 reis = Id. ; 100
reis = about 5d. or 5%d. ; 500 reis = about 2s.
3d. ; 1000 reis or 1 dol. =:4s. 6d. Spanish cur-
rency (especially the copper coinage) is rather
difficult to understand. The real is the ordinary
basis of calculations, and the following is an ap-
proximate money-table :
8 cuartos = 1 real = % peseta = 2^d.
4 reals = 1 peseta = lOd. ) 2.
10 reals = 1% pesetas = 1 escudo = 2s. Od. } 5"
20 reals = 5 pesetas = 1 duro = 4s. 2d. ) Q
100 reals=10 escudos=25 pesetas=l Os. 9d. \ eg
40 reals= 4 escudos=10 pesetas 8a 4d. j g;
DENMARK AND SWEDEN.
Ore Copper Ore Silver Gold B. d.
1 1% penny 10=li 4 U 5 kroner = 56%
5= % penny 25 3;^d. 10 " =111%
10 = 1% penny 50 = 6%d. 20 " =223^
Swedish paper money is in riks-talers or kro-
ner. A Swedish riks-taler is equal to one krono.
Danish paper money is in riks-taler or kronor;
one Danish riks-taler is two kronor.
NORWAY.
Copper money, 3 skillings = IJ^d. Silver
money, 12 skillings = 5J^d. 24 skillings or one
mark = about lid. One specie dollar = 4s. 6d.
Paper money at par. Norwegian paper money
not taken In Sweden or Denmark.
Danish and Swedish one krono pieces (silver),
or :>. in. or 20 kronor pieces (gold), pass in Nor-
way. Four kronor or 2 Dutch silver dollars =
1 specie-dollar. One Krono = 30 skillings Nor-
wegian.
1003
INDEX.
A.
Aabogen, 1469.
Aaby, 1334.
Aadai, 1427.
Aagaard, 1332.
Aak, 1397.
Aakirkeby, 1346.
Aalborjf, 1889.
to Nibe and Logstor, 1334.
Aalen, 137-2.
Aalesiiixl, 1397, 1428.
Aaltim, i:i-'>.
Aamot, 1403.
A ill-ail, lii"7.
Aarbiirg, 107T.
Aardal, 1410.
Aarhuus, i:t27.
to Viborg, 1336.
Aarup, 1345.
Aasheim, 1309.
Abano, ^i)7.
Abbeville, 293.
Abbey Craig, 142.
Abbey of Konigsfold, 1078.
Abbotsford, ico.
Aberdeen, 135.
Abei-feldy, 147.
Aberfoyle, 142.
Abergavenny. 888.
Aborgddie, 137.
Abergele, 248.
Aberystwith, 280.
to Caermarthen, Pembroke, Tenby,
Swansea, Cardiff, and Newport, 279.
Abo, 1484.
Aboo Strobe!, 944.
Aboo Sir, 944.
Aboyne, 137.
Abrantes, 1279.
Abu G;uish,956.
Abydo.-s Ruins of, 938.
Aclienktrch, 1175.
Acbensee, 1175.
A( hciiwald, 1176.
Acbselmannstein, 1177.
Aci Kealc, DO.'..
Acquabunua, 1173.
Acre, or Akka, 980.
Adaro. Of>.
Adelsberg, 731,751.
Cave of, 731.
Route from Paris, 34.
Ailvicc to Travellers, Introduction, xiii et </.
JSijina, Island of, 995.
Alien. 419.
Agents. Diplomatic and Consular, xxi-xxiv.
A^^crshuns, Castle of, 1361.
Air.utM-siind, 1332.
Aghada, 50.
1
Ajjnesberg, 1433.
Agram, 739 ; Agre, 1360.
Airiiilur de Campos, 1200.
Aibling, 1145.
Aigle, 1111.
Aigle-les-Bains: Route from Paris, 34.
Aiguebelle, 477, 744.
Aiguilles de Vareus, 1046.
Aiguilles du Gouter, 1046.
Ailsa Craig, 128.
Ain Mousa, Desert of Suez, 945.
Airolo, 1104.
Aix. 469.
Aix-la-Chnpelle, 585.
to Paris, 587.
Route from Paris, 34.
Aix-les-l$:\ins, 47t>, 744.
Route from Paris, 34.
Akersrass Locks, 1462.
Ala, 1156.
Aland Islands, the, 1484.
Alas, 455.
to Nimes, 453.
Alassio, 743.
Alatri, 871.
Albacete, 1258.
Albnek, 1335.
Albano, 868.
Albany, 1556.
Albenga, 743.
Albeuve, 1108.
Albula, Pass of, 1136.
Alcacoras, 1289.
Alcala de Henares, 1275.
Alcazar de San Juan, 1230.
Alceda, 1200.
Alcoy, 1263.
Alencon,399.
Alessandria, 797.
Alexundretta, ML
Alexandria, Egypt, 919.
to Cairo, 921.
Route from London, 29; from Paris, 34.
Italy, 797.
Algeciras, 1242.
Algeria, 473.
Algiers, boundaries of, steamers to the, 47S.
Route from Paris, 34.
Alhama de Aragon, 1274.
Alicante, 1259.
Alkmaar, 534 3-H.
Allariz, 1205.
Allernpbnnker, 1330.
Allinge, 1347.
j Almaden,1277.
Almagro, 1277.
Almansn, i-.'.v.t.
Almcirim, 1279.
Almerla, 1257.
INDEX.
Almindingeu, 1346.
Alpnach, 10S6.
Alsten, Island of, 1380.
Altaba, Falls of, 1196.
Alt-Buda, near Pesth, 736.
Alteu, 1390.
Alien Fjord, the, 1384.
Altenburg, 629.
Alteeula, Island of, 1387.
Altorf, 1103.
Alveneu, Baths of, 1136.
Alverstromnien, 1416.
Al vesta, 1440, 1472.
Amager, Island of, 1298.
Amiil, 141)9.
Amalfl, SS3.
Amalienborg, 1298.
Amathonte, 9S13-5.
Amathiis, Kuius of, 981 4-5.
Amble, 1415.
Amberien, 744.
Ambleside, 254.
Amboise, 403.
Ambras, Castle of, 1145.
Amden, 1118.
Amersfoort, 534 4-8.
Amesbnry, 283.
Amiens, 298.
Route from Paris, 34.
Amphion-les-Bains, 1045. .,
Amphissa, or Salona,999.
Amsteg, 1103.
Amsterdam, 534.
to Cologne, via Utrecht and Am hem,
534 5-8.
Route from London, 29; from Paris, 34.
Anadouli-Hissar (Castle of Asia),9S9.
Anadonli-Kavak, 988.
Anclam, 605.
Ancoua, 822.
to Alexandria, via Brindisi, 528.
to Brindisi, 823.
to Genoa, 823.
to Naples, 874.
to Smyrna, via Brindisi, Corfu, and
Syra, 823.
to Trieste, via Venice, 823.
to Trieste, 823.
Route from Paris, 34.
An deer, 746.
Andermatt, 1104.
Andermatten, 1115.
Anderuach, 682.
Andreasberg, 592.
Anrtritsena, 1001.
Andujar, 1231.
Angers, 404.
Angouleme, 410.
Aunamoe, 76.
Annan, 1C9.
Annweiler, 675.
Anteqnera, 1250.
Antibes, 742.
Antrim, 94.
Antwerp, 513.
to Rotterdam, 515, 527.
Ronte from London, 29 ; from Paris, 34.
Aosta, 797, 1052.
to St. Bernard, 797.
Apennines, the, 823.
Appeldoorn, 534 7-8.
Appenzell, Canton of, 1123.
Aquila,874.
Arachova, 999.
Arnnjuez, 1230.
Arbedo, 1105.
Arboga, 1476.
Arbrnath, m.
Arcachon, 416.
Arco, 750, 1156.
Arco Felice, 890.
Ardetz, llL'6.
Ardimon, 9S1 4-5.
Ardlin, 143.
Ardmore, 56.
Ardrishaig, 117.
Ardtoruish Castlt, 119.
Arendal,1418.
Arevalo, 1210.
Arezzo, 839.
Argeles,432.
Argentiere, 1054.
Argos, 996.
Arklow, 74.
Aries, 469.
Route from Paris
Arloii, 518.
Armagh, 91.
Arnaout-Keni, 987.
Arnhem.5346-8.
Arona, 746,791,797.
to Genoa, 797 ; t.> Milan, 746, 791.
from Paris, via Dijon, 34.
Arran, Island of, 116.
Arras. 498.
Arrizafa, 1232.
Arstad, 1381.
Artenay, 402.
Arth, or Art, 1096.
Arvika, 1468.
Asaa, 1330.
Aschlerbnch, 1168.
Asiatic shore, the, 988.
Ask, 1427.
Askeaton, 64.
Asker, 1405.
Assen, 534 4-8.
Assens, 1345.
Assioot, or Sioot, 937.
Assisi, 840.
Assouan, 942.
A8torgn,1203.
Ateca, 1274.
Ateste, 807.
Athenry. S3.
Athens": History, Hotels, Palace, 993; Acrop-
olis, Temple of Victory, Parthenon, 994 :
Erechtheinm, Areopagus, the Pnyx, Tower
of the Winds, Lantern of Demosthenes,
Arch of Hadrian, Temple of Jupiter Olym-
pus, 995: Theatre of Bacchus, Temple of
Theseus, Mount Lycabettus, Mount Pentel-
icus, Excursion to Marathon, 995.
Athens : Route from London, 29 : from Paris,
34.
to Corinth, 995.
to Missolonghi, 997.
to Patras, Iff
Athens, United States, 1555.
Athlone, 83.
A tii a, 1369.
Atteras, 1473.
Atzwang, 749, 1163.
Aubonne, 1039.
Auch, 144, 446.
Anchinleck, 167.
INDEX.
Augsbnrg: Hotels, Bishop's Palace, Allge-
ineiue Zeitnng, 003; Cathedra), Castle of
Hohen8chwangan,663, 664.
Augsburg to Ulra, 064.
Route from Paris, 34.
Auma, 1370.
Anne, 1481.
Anns i Opdul, 1396.
Aunede, hamlet "f, 1343.
Auray, 4M.
Anrland, 1417.
Anssiir, 723.
Atutberg i Remnebo, 1396.
Ansterlitz, 720.
Australia, routes to, l.'>74.
Austrian Empire, the, 704-740.
Avebury, 268.
Aveiro, 1290.
Avenza, SU9.
Avezzano, 874.
Aviguon, 468.
to Vauclnse, 469.
Route from Paris, 34.
Avila, 1210.
Avis, 1166.
Avranches, 395.
Ay, 490.
Ayr, 127.
B.
Baalbec, 977, 97S.
to Beymm, !>7S.
to the Cedars, 979.
Bnbelsberg, 576.
Bacharach, 6-^.
Badajos, 1278.
Baden, Austria : Ronte from Paris, 34.
Switzerland: Route from I'ari>, :!4.
Baths of, Switzerland, 716.
Baden-Baden, 099.
from Heidelberg, i">9'.>.
Route from Paris, 34.
Badstuen, 1324.
Baeverelvdnl, 1422.
Baeza, 1231.
Baffn, 981 3-5.
Bagdtche-Keni, 988.
Bauenalstown. 73.
Bagni'res de Bisjorre, 429.
Route from Paris, 34.
Bagneres de Luchou : Route from Paris, 35.
Baholm, 1415.
Baise, Bay of, 890.
Bailen, 1231.
Bak, 1431.
Baktchissarai, 1540.
to Simi>heropol, 1541.
Balaklava, 1539.
Bald Mountain, 1176.
Ballater, 137.
Ballatrich,137.
Bttllenstedr, r.92.
Ballerup, 1344.
Ballinamona, 55.
Ballinasloe, S3.
Ballinrobe, 86.
Ballybay, 94.
Ballyhale,71.
Ballyshannon, 88.
Balmoral, 1ST.
BkUa,1580.
BalUi-Lininn, 988.
Baltimore, 1576.
Bam berg, 642.
Route from Parlj, 35.
Bauchory, 136.
Banclaks" Vnnd, lake, 1426.
Bandholm, 1343.
Bandon, 53.
Banff, 135.
Baiiiror Menai Bridge, 249.
H.uiifis, or Caesarea Pnilippi, 975.
Bankers, Reliable, Introduction, xv.
Bannockburn, 139, 176.
Bautry, 54.
Barcelona, 1266.
Ronte from London, 29 ; from Paris, 35.
Bareges, 437.
Barenboden, or "Bears' Domain," 1162.
Bari, 824, ^'.'4.
Barkald. 1370.
Bar-le-Dnc, 490.
Barletta, 824.
Barmonth, 279.
Barnstaple, 285.
Barweis, 1166.
Basle, 673, 1069.
Routes from, 1070.
Ronte from London, 29 ; from Paris, 35.
Basodino, the, 1115.
Bass Rock, 164.
Basserthwaite Lake, 258.
Bath, 268.
Route from Paris, 35.
Bathsof Oblades, 1160.
of Pfaffers, 1118.
of St. Gervais, 1046.
of Saxe, 1052.
of Schalders, 115.'.
ofVahrn, 115-2.
Battaglia,S07.
Battle, 227.
Bantasteen, 1367.
Bavaria, 648.
Baveno, Italy, 791.
Switzerland, 1106.
Bayenx, 394.
Bayfleld, 1568.
Bayonne, 417.
Route from Puns, 35.
Baza, 1257.
Bazeilles, 496.
Beauly, 129.
Beanne, 467.
Bebek, 987.
Beckenried.llOl.
Bedford, 234.
Beigh, 64.
Belalcazar, 1278.
Belfast, 92.
to Dublin, 91.
to Glasgow, London, and Liverpool,
100.
Route from London, 29.
Ronte from Paris, 35.
Bel fort, 480.
Route from Paris, 35.
Belgirate, 746, 991.
Belgium, 501-523.
Belgrad, 604.
Belgrade, 737.
Bellagio, 789.
Bellalp, the, 1114.
Bellano, 7^.>.
Rellejrnrde, 1029.
Bellinzona, 747, 1101, 1106.
INDEX.
Bellpnig, IfTl.
Bellnno, 784, 1173.
Belmez, 1232.
Benavente, 1208.
Benevento, 874.
BengBtfon, H35.
Benicnrlo, 1264.
Beni-Hassan, Tombs of, 936.
Heiiisooef, 935.
Berard.1055.
Berg, 1465.
Berg Isel, 1150.
Bergamo, 779.
to Lecco on Lake Como, lS f
Berge i Roldal, 1409.
Bergen, Sweden, 1412.
Germany, 601.
Bergen-op-Zoom, 527.
Berfan.1186,
Beria Vergi, Mines of, 1258.
Berlin, 561-573 ; Hotel, Unter deu Linden,
Statue of Frederick the Great, New Stadt,
561; Sights of, including Galleries, Muse-
ums, etc., 562-568: University, Library, Pal-
aces, etc., 560 : Cathedrals, Churches, Stai-
nes, etc., 570, 571 ; Bankers and Tradesmen,
572 ; Excursions, 573.
Berlin to Charlottenbnrg, 573.
Route from London, '29 ; from Paris, 35.
to Potsdam and Sans Souci, 573.
to Hamburg, 517, 595.
to Wittenberg, 576.
to Hanover, 577.
to Paris, 576. 5S7.
to Bremen, 601.
to Danzig, 603, 606.
to Tilsit, 608.
to Leipzig, 615.
tol)usseldorf,617.
to Breslan, 629.
to Dresden, 632.
Bernardino Route, the, 747.
Bernay, 392.
Berne,' 1072.
Route from Paris, 35.
Routes from, 1073.
Bernina,1127.
Berwick-npon-Tweed, 166, 239.
Besaker, 1379.
Besancon, 492.
Bethel, Ruins of, 972.
Bethlehem, 967.
Route from Paris, 35.
Beverwijk, 5342-8.
Hex, 1111.
Route from Paris, 35.
Beyeheville.416.
B.-y-Kos, 9S'..
Beyront, 97!l, 982.
to Constantinople, 9S1.
Route from Paris, 35.
Briers, 446.
Biarritz, 418.
Route from Paris, 35.
Biasoa, 1105.
Biella, 792.
Bienne, 106S.
Bilbao, 1196.
Billesholm, 1472.
Bllllngsfors, 1435.
Bingen on the Rhine, 690.
Route from Paris, 35.
Birkeude, 1314.
Birkenhead,246.
Birmingham, 245.
Route from Paris, 35.
Bissenhofeu to Augsburg, 1167.
Bjerjets Kro, 1333.
Bjerkaker, 1396.
Bjernede, 1314.
Bjiiberg, 1404.
Bjiirgen, 1372.
Blaaflaten, 1402.
Blair-Athol, 132.
Blanca, 1258.
Blankeuburg, 592.
Blarney, 51.
Blaye, 415.
Blea Tarn, 256.
Bleibere:, 1181.
Blenheim, 243.
Blois, 403.
Route from Paris, 35.
to Chateau de Valencay, 40.'!.
to Chateau de Chaumout, 403
Bloomiugdale, 1502.
Bludenz, 1165.
Blum, 'in, 1153.
Bobadilla, 1249.
Bodio, 1105.
Bodo, 1377, 1379,1381.
Boll ad ore, 1163.
Bollar, 1326.
Bolmen, Lake, 1440.
Bologna, 815.
Route from Paris, 35.
to Ancona, 818.
to Brindisi, 818.
to Florence, 818.
to Pistoia, 818.
Bolstndoren i Vos, 1412,
Boltigen, 1109.
Bolton's Limding, 1557.
Bomnrsunrl, 14S4.
Bombay: Route from London, 29; from Par-
is, 35.
Bon n,680.
Route from Paris, 36. ,
Bonneville, 1046.
Boppard, 687.
Boras, 1459.
Borcette, 586.
Bordeaux: Commerce, 412 ; Wine-cellars ai.d
Wine, 413.
Route from Paris, 35.
Various Routes from, 410.
Bordlghera,
Boren Lake, 1465.
Borgbetto, 841.
Borgholm, U*>.
lionro San Donino, 813.
Borknp, 1326.
Bormio, Baths of, 1163.
Route from Paris, ;ir>.
Bornholm, Island of, l.'Ui;.
Borringe, 1470.
Borromean Islands, 790.
Bosca, 1173.
Bosekop, 1390.
Boston, England, 2S8.
United States, 1561.
Bothwell Castle, 112.
Botzen,1153, 1168.
Boulogne (sur Mer),296.
Route from London,!
35.
from Paris,
INDEX.
Bonrboule, 462.
Bourg, 414, 470.
Hour;: St. Maurice. 1138. .
Bonrgw, 448.
Bouveret, 1044.
Bovernier, 1050.
Bowness _':>:{.
Boxtel, 534 5-8.
Boyle, 7'.>.
Boyne, the River. :>_'.
Braagerland, 1317.
Brad ford, 264.
Bradford-on-Avon, 288.
Brneniar. liis.
Braendhangen i Dovre, i:;: 5.
Bragerii, 140B.
Bra in mi 11 ge, 1338.
Brandenburg, 587.
Branneuburg, 1145.
Bran tielas, 1203.
Brauzall, 1155.
Bra-.ibach, 68T.
Braunau, 727.
Bray. TO.
Brechim, ISO.
Brecon, 276.
Bred, 1345.
Breda, :,-^.
Bredevangen i Sels, 1394.
Bregentved, 1341.
Bregenz, 1164, 1167, 1169,
Route from Paris, 35.
Breistf>len,1404.
Bremen, 601.
Route from Paris.. "5.
Brennbiichl, 1159.
Brenner, 1151.
Brennerbad, 1151.
Brenner Pass, the, 749, lir>0.
Breno, ^05.
Brescia, 777, 804.
to Pavia, S04.
to Tirano, 805.
Breslau,609.
to Cracow, 610.
Bressay Island, 134S.
Brest, 400.
Route from Paris, 35.
Breuil, 1054.
Br<?vent, the, 1050.
Bridge of Allan, 142.
Brieg, 745, 1064.
Brief, 527.
Brienz, 1084.
Route from Paris, 35.
Brighton, -.'I'.).
Route from Paris. 35.
Brimsliif, 1440.
Brindisi, v.-4.
from Venice, "CO.
to Alexandria, 824.
to Greece. *-J4.
. to Venice and Triejte, 824.
to Genoa, SLU.
to Otranto. *2l.
Route from London, 29; from Paris,
35.
Bristol, 268.
to Chepstow, Monmonth, Hereford,
Lndlow, Shrewsbury, and Chester, '27'2.
to Gloucester, Cheltenham, Great Mal-
ven.and Worcester, 271.
British America, 1557-1559, 1564-1567.
Brittany, 397.
Brixen, 749, 1132, 1179.
BrixleL'L', 1145.
Bniadlord, 149.
Broek, 534 2-8.
Brocken, 592.
Brodenbnch,
Brodick,lM.
Broek, 532.
Brohl, 6S2.
Brouiisaud, 1380.
Brooklyn. 1551.
Bro..t, 1332.
Brothiiusi, 1109.
Bruck, 750, 1171.
Bruges, 520.
to Oeteud, 521.
Route from Paris, 35.
Bragg, 1078.
Brun;ui,1182.
Bruneckeu, 1180.
Bra nig Pass, the, 1085.
Brunn, 719.
Briinneii, 1102.
Bi-uuswii'k, the City of, 589.
to Magdeburg, 590.
the Duchy of, 588.
Route from London, 29; from Paris, 35.
Brusio, 1128.
Brussels, 505-511.
to Luxembourg, 517.
Waterloo, 511.
to Calais, 522.
to Paris, 623.
Route from London, 29; from Paris, 35.
Brnton, 290.
Bryn, 1367.
Bucharest : Routes from Paris, 35.
Buchau,1175.
Buchs,1171.
Buda, near Pesth,735.
Buffalo, 1564.
Builth, 27ii.
Bnlbjerg Cliff, 1332.
Bulle, 1108.
Bandoran. 89.
Bnrgeis, 1161.
Burgos, 1197.
Route from Paris, 35.
Burmindy Wines, 45S.
Buriitisland, 157.
Bury St. Edmund's, 283.
Busdongo, 1202.
Bush-mills, 98.
Buttevant, 62.
Buxton, 247.
Bnynk-Dere, 988.
Bygdin Lake, 1423.
Bygholm Veile, 1333.
Byrhe i Nordre Fron, 1394.
Bystr.im, 1458.
C.
Cabourg, 394.
Cadenabbia, 791, 1107.
Cadenazzo, 747.
Cadiz, 1242.
Route from Paris. 35.
Caen, 393.
to Havre, 394.
to Cherbourg, 394.
Route from Paris, 35.
Caermarthen, 277.
Caernarvon, 279.
INDEX.
Csesarea, 980.
Cnmrea Philippi, 972.
Cabir, 66.
Cahors, 445.
Cairo: Hotels, 921 ; Citadel, Massacre of ihe
Mamelukes, 923; Mosques, 923; Palaces,
Baths. Festival, 924 ; Heliopolis, Shoobra,
925; Old Cairo, 926; Pyramids, 920-930;
Sphinx, 928; Temple of Serapis. 930.
Cairo to Tor, via Suez, 946.
to Sinai, 940.
to Jerusalem, via El Arish, 950.
Route from Paris, 35.
Calais, 296.
Route from England, 29, 1572 ; from
Paris, 36.
Calaudaberg, 1119.
Calatayud, 1274.
Calaveras big trees, the, 1571, 1572.
Calcutta: Route from London, 29; from Par-
is, 36.
Caldwell, 1557.
Caldwell's Landing, 1553.
Caledou, 95.
Caledonian Canal, 125.
California, 1571 ; routes from, 157-.'.
Calhin, 72.
Calhuider, 133.
Calmar, 14S2.
Cambrai, 497.
Cambridge: Colleges of the University, Fitz-
william Museum, Observatory and Botan-
ical Gardens, Churches, etc., 232.
Route from Paris, 36.
Campo Dolcino, 747, 790.
Campo Formio, 733.
Canada, 1557-1559, 1564-1567.
Canal de Conde,523.
Caual of Arsiuoe, 945.
Cannes, 474.
Route from Paris, 36.
Cannstadt, Mineral Baths, 666.
Route from Paris, 36.
Cantara, 981 3-6.
Canterbury, 229.
Cautine de Proz, 1056.
Cape of Good Hope : Route from London, 29.
Cape Parthenike, 1539.
Capernaum, 975.
Capo di Ponte, 1173.
Cappoquin, 57.
Capri, 882.
Capua, 872.
Capnchiii Convent, 1149, 1160.
Carcassone, 422.
Cardiff, 274.
Carentau,396.
Carlisle, 252.
Route from Paris, 36.
Carlow, 73.
Carlsbad, 639.
to Vienna, 640.
Route from Paris, 36.
Carlsborg, 1460.
Carlscrona, 1482.
Carlshamn, 1482.
Carlsrnhe, 700.
Route from Paris, 36.
Carlstad, 1469.
Carmagnola, 796;
Cannon*, 1232.
Carpi, si 17.
Cajrickfergus, 94.
Carrick-on-Shannou, 88.
Carrick-oo-Sulr, t;c>.
Carriijadrohid, 54. .
Carril, 12i'5.
Cars, Sleeping, for Travelers, xx.
Carstairs, H'.'.t.
Cartagena, 1258.
Casa Branca, 1288.
Casablanca, 1248.
Casaccia, 1129.
Caserta, 872.
Cashel,67.
Cassel, 618.
Route from Paris, 36.
Castalian Fountain, 999.
Castasegua, ll-.".i.
Castebruth, 1153.
Castejon, 1276.
Castel Bolognesc to Ravenna, 819.
Pietro, Bologna, 818.
Castelbell, 1167.
Castellon, 1264.
Castillejo, 1230.
Castle of Gripshnlm, 1483.
Castlebar, 85.
Castle-Blayney, 94.
Castle-Douglas, 174.
Castledermot, 74.
Castlereagh 85 Ciwtlelon, 241.
Castncum, 5:!4 2-S.
Ca8tnern,127S.
Cataifia, 905.
Cataracts of Egypt, 943.
Caterham, 227.
Catorraja, 1260.
Catskill, 1555.
Catskill Mountains, the, 1554.
Cauterets, 433-435.
Cavan, 90.
Cave Hill, 93.
Cefalu, 902.
Celle, 640.
Ceneda, 1173.
Cerda, 902.
Certaldo, 843.
Cervera, 1271.
Cesena, 821.
Cette, 44G.
Ronte from Paris, 36.
Chablis. 458.
Chseronea, 1000.
Chalcis, 1000.
Chalon-sur-Saone, 467.
Ronte from Paris, 36.
Chalons-sur-Marue, 490.
Route from Paris, 36.
Chambery, 477.
Chambreiien, 1115.
Cbamouuix, 1046.
Route from London, 29 ; from Paris, 36.
Champagne Wines, 481-489.
Champtoce, 406.
Chantilly, 299.
Chareuton, 457, 741.
Charleroi, 497.
Route from Paris, 36.
Charleston, 1578.
Charleville, Ireland, 63.
France, 495.
Charlottenburr, 1403.
Charlottenlund, 1318.
Chartres, :(99.
Chateau Chaumont, 403.
INDEX.
Chfitean Che"nanceau,404.
d'Oex, 1110.
de Ponsas, 467.
de Praugius, 1038.
Ennseck, 726.
MUILTMUX, 415.
of Steen,612.
Thierry, 481.
rhiituauroiix. 444.
Chati'Miuvoii, 450.
C'ti:itellerault, 407.
Chatham, 888.
Chatillon, 1064.
Chatsworth, 247.
Route from Paris, 36.
Chnumont, 479, 1068.
Cheitau Akindisi (Satan's Curreut), 988.
Chelmsford, 230.
Cheltenham, 273.
Chemnitz. 047.
Chepstow, 275.
Cherbourg, 397.
Route from Paris. 36.
Chermontane, 1067.
Chersonesns, 1638.
Chester, 246.
Eaton Hall, 246.
Chexbres, 1070.
Chiamut, 1132.
Chiavari, 809.
Chiavenna, 747, 790.
Chicago, 1567.
Chillou. Castle of. 1043.
China, Routes to, 1574.
Chinchilla, 1258.
Chippis, Valley of, 1059.
ChiselhursJ, 226.
Chiusi, 845.
Choisy-le-Roy,402.
Christiania: Hotels, Castle of Aggershuns,
1360; Trefoldigheds-kirki?, Palacei Museum
of Northern Antiquities, University, Na-
tional Gallery of Paintings, Theatre, Can-
Dies, Oscar's" Hall, Frogner - Aasen, 1362;
Environs of, 1365.
Christiania to Bergen, 1350, 1367, 1399.
to Odnaes, 1350.
to Trondhjem, 1350.
to Molde, 1350, 1367, 1307.
to Stockholm, 1351.
Route from London, 29 ; from Paris, 36.
ChristiauSitnd. TM6, 1418.
Christiiuisborg, 1301.
Christianshavn, 1298.
Christianssaede, Manor <>f. 1343.
Christiaustad, 1439.
Christiaiisuud, 1429.
Christinehamn, 1469.
Chur, 1169, 1171.
Chnrbnrg. Castle of, 11 til.
Churwalden. 760.
Cilli,750.
Cincinnati, 1569.
Ciney,517.
Citrea, 981 3-5.
Cilta Vecchia. ;>14.
Ciudad Real. 1-277.
Ciudad Rodrigo, 1209.
Civita Vecchiii. -*4-_'.
to Rome, 843.
Civray, 410.
Cladich, 147.
Clapham, 263.
Clare-Gal way. ^7.
ClareiiK, 745/1042.
Route from Paris, 39.
Clausholm, 1H2S.
Clavadel, Baths of, 1137.
Clermont Ferratid, 451.
Clifden.84.
C]iff..n y ,S9.
Clifton, 269.
Cloggriitz, 750.
Clonmacuoise, 80.
Clonmel, 66.
Cloyne, 50.
Cluses, 1046.
Coblentz, 6S3.
Route from Paris, 3.
Cochem, 685.
Cockennouth, 260.
Cognac, 410.
Cogoletto, 443.
Cohoes, 1556.
Coimbra, 1290.
Coins, Tables of, 535, 1003, 1580.
Coire, 1119.
to Colico (and Milan), over the Splfl-
geu, 746.
to Magadiuo, over the Bernardino, 747.
Route from Paris, 36.
Colchester, 231.
Col de Balme, 1054.
Bonhomme, 1052.
Cheville, 1057.
Fenetre, 1057.
Torrent, 1059.
la Dent de Jaman, 1108.
la Forclaz, 1046.
Col des Montets, 1054.
Cold Spring, 1554.
Coldstream, 162.
Coleraine, 94, 9S.
Colfax, 1571.
Colico, 747, 790, 1164.
to Como, 747.
Route from Paris, 36.
Collonges Station, 1030.
Col mar, C79.
Cologne, 582.
to Frankfort, Bonn, Coblentz, 585.
to Mainz, Aix-la-Chapelle, Paris. 585.
Route from London, 29; from Paris,
36.
Colombes, 3S6.
Como, Lake of, 787.
to Lake Maggiore, 790.
Route from London, 29; from Paris, 36.
Comptegne, 496.
Route from Paris, 36.
Comrie, 145.
Comstock Lode, 1570.
Concise, 1067.
Conegliano, 1173.
Coney Island Excursions, 1548.
Cong, 86.
Coniston, 256.
Constance, 673.
Route from London, 30 ; from Paris, 36.
Constantinople: Hotels, Seraglio, snblimc
Porte, 984; Bosphonts, Mosques of St. So-
phia, Suleiman. Sultan Achnu-d. Muham-
med II., Hippodrome, 985; Obelisk of The-
odosius, the Burned Pillar, Aqueduct. Ba-
zars, Cemeteries. 986; CaTqnes, Valet de
Place, the Dogs, Excursions, 98T.
8
INDEX.
Constantinople, Steamers from, 989.
to Odessa, 989.
to Vieuna, 989.
to the Crimea, 989.
to Genoa, 990.
Route from London, 30 ; from Paris, 36.
Consular and Diplomatic Agents, xxi-xxiv.
Contamines-sur-Arve, 1045.
Con they, 1058.
Couvamore, 58.
Convent of the Capuchins, 1160.
Convent of Sebeu, 1152.
Conway, 249.
Cook, Son, & Jenkins's Arrangements for
Travelers, xxvii.
Copenhagen: Streets, Carriages, Amalien-
borg, 1-297, 1298 ; Rosenborg Castle, 1299-
1301 ; Christiansborg, Chambers of Parlia-
ment, Palace ofFrederiksborg, 1301; Thor-
waldsen's Museum, 1302-1300 ; Prindseus
Palais, Ethnographic Museum, Museum of
Northern Antiquities, 1306-1309; Cathedral
and Churches, 1309; Arsenal, Exchange,
Royal Library, and Theatres, 1310,1311; Ex-
cursions from, 1311, 1312.
Copenhagen to Charlotteulnnd and Deer
Park, 1318.
to Lyngby, 1320.
to Kallun'dborg, 1339.
to Kjoge, 1340.
to Faxe, 1343.
to Frederikssund, 1344.
to the Island of Born holm, 1346.
to the Faroe Islands, 134S.
Route from London, 30 ; from Paris,
36.
Copper Harbor, 1568.
Coppet, 1038.
Cordova, 1231,l-248.
Route from Paris, 36.
Corinth, 99T.
Cork, 50.
to London, Liverpool, and Glasgow,
100.
Route from Paris, 36.
Cornigliano, 743.
Cornwall Landing, 1554.
Coron, 1001.
Corsoer, 1312, 1314.
Cortina d'Ampezzo, 1172.
Cortona, 839.
Cornna,1206.
Corycian Cave, 999.
Cosenza, 892.
Coslin, 604.
Cossonay, 1067.
C6te d'Or, 458.
Cotignola, 819.
Courmayeur, 1052.
Conrtrai, 499, 522.
Coutances, 395.
Contras, 412.
Cove, 82.
Coventry, 240.
Cowes, 226.
Route from Paris, 36.
Cracow, 610.
to Warsaw, 612.
to Vienna, 614.
Route from Paris, 36.
C'iaii,'niillar Castle, 171.
Ci-atnont, 1052.
C rat hie, 1ST.
Crato, 1279.
Crecy, '2i"~.
Credo Tunnel, 1030.
Cremona. --04.
C'renznach, O'.tl.
Crewe, '240.
Crieff, 14S.
Crimea, the, 1536.
from Constantinople, 989.
Criuan Canal, 117.
Cronstadt, 1519.
Crow's Nest, 1554.
Croydon.-21'.i.
Cueuca, 1229.
Cueta, 1247.
Cullera, 1-203.
Culioile.il, 131.
Cully, 1H41.
Cnlnz to Geneva, 1029.
Cnmse, 890.
Cmnbray, Islands of, 115.
C un en, 7!til.
Ciishendun, 99.
Cusiriu, 000.
Cyprus, Island of, 9S1 1-5.
Route from Paris, 36.
D.
Dabod, 944.
Daglosen, 1476.
Dasrmerselleu, 1(>77.
Dalaas, 1165.
Dalbeattie, 174.
Dalkeirh, 158.
Dais Fjord, the, 14-20.
Dalsands Canal, the, 1435.
Dalseidet i Hans. 141-2.
Damascus: Hotels, Cook-shops. Synagogues,
Convents, Rivers Abana and Pharpar,' 970 ;
the Great Mosque, the Castle, St. Paul's
House, Abd el Kader. 976.
Damascus to Kaalbee. '.'77.
Route from London, 30 ; from Paris, 36.
Danzig, 604.
Route from London, 30: from Paris, 36.
Dardanelles, tin-. 988.
Route from Paris, 37.
Dargle, the, 70.
Darmstadt, O'.Mi.
to Heidelberg, 697.
Route from Paris. 37.
Dartford, 217 2-8. Dnrtmonth o 71
Davlia, IIHMI. .itn, -.1.
Davos Plats and Dorfle, 1137.
Dax, 417.
Dead Sea, the, 969.
Deepdene, 226 1-4.
Deer Park, 1318, 1458.
Delft. 530.
Delphi, or Castri, 999.
Denbigh, 248.
Dt'iiia, 1-263.
Denmark, 1293-1349.
Dent d'Otich, 1044.
Departures from London, 21 7 : from Paris. 07''.
Deptford, 217 2-8. D . ,
l)erryuane,S-2. Derby, 2d4.
Dervio, 7--. 1 .
Derwentwater. 257.
Desenzano, 777.
Deserts of Suez and Arnbin, 945-051
|ic--,iu. 617.
Detmolcl, 594.
Detroit, 1667.
Dent/
Devenish Island, 91.
Devens Suit Mines, 1111.
Do venter. r>:>,4 7-8.
Hi idire, 1103.
l)i:iinnd Island, 1557.
DledeahofeD. 4H3.
Dieppe, 300, 389.
Koute from London, 30; from Pr.rls, 37.
Dijon, 468. Route from Paris, 37.
Dimmelsvik, 1420.
Dinant, 517.
Diiiirwnll, l'2'.t.
Diplomat!*' and Consular Agents, xxi-xxiv.
entic, 1132.
Dives.
Divonne, 103S.
njurtiarden, 145S.
Dobh's Ferry, 1553.
Dol, 3%.
Route from Paris, 37.
Dolgelly, 144.
Dollar, 140.
Dulsach, 11-n.
Dombaas, 13'.i5, 1399.
Domo d'Ossola, 74*').
Route from Paris. :;7.
Domremy, 4'.<1.
Don Alvaro. l-'7v
Don Benito. 1-J7-.
Don Koderic, Castle of, H'.i7.
Donaustaf, 031.
Doncaster.
Donchery. 4%.
Done?
Dorchester, 286.
Dordrecht, or Dort, ,V-"v
Dorkinu:, -'- > 7. -^'..
Dornburn. 1165.
Dortmund, 680.
R>n!M5. Douglas, 241.
Dover. ->.".>.
Route from London, 30, 290 ; from Par-
is, 37.
Dpvre Fjeld, 1305.
Downpatrick. '.'7.
Dracheufels, 681.
Dranimen. 140ft
Draxholm, Castle of. i:'.4n.
Dresden : Hotels, American Club. 633 ; Royal
Palace, 634; Picture-gallery and its Gems,
635: the Zwinzer, Museum of Natural His-
tory, and Military Museum, i;36; Grand Op-
era-house, 636 : Japanese Palace and the
Fr.'inenkirche, 636; Manufactures, Banker*,
and Tradesmen, 637, <;:;-'; Excursions, 638.
Dresden to Frankfort, 619.
to Carlsbad, 639.
to Schwar zenbtirg, 646.
Route from London, 30 ; from Paris, 37.
hytte, 1369.
Driva, Valley of the, 1396.
Drivstuen i Opdal, 1396.
Drobiik. 1417.
Drogheda, 91.
to Belfast, 97.
Dronniiiirslund, Storskov, 1330.
Drottnin-jholm, Palace of, 1483.
Drnmimir, -n.
Drumlanrig Castle, 167.
Dryburgh Abbey, 160.
Duart c'astle, 119.
Dublin : Hotels, 6S : Castle, Trinity College,
Cathedral of the Holy Trinity, St. Patrict'a
Cathedral, Four Courts, 6'.i ; Ciujtom-hoase,
Exchange, Nelson's Monument, Galleries,
Museum, Phoenix Park, Zoological Gar-
dens, Uotanic Gardens at Glasnevin, Cem-
etery, Irish Poplins, 70; Excursi*.
Hill of Howth, Kingstown, 71.
Dublin to London, Liverpool, Glasgow, and
Bristol, KKI.
Route from London, 30; from Paris, 37.
Dumbarton. 114.
Dumfries, 168.
Dunbar, 164.
Dunblane, 14'2.
Dundalk, '.<>.
Dundee, 179.
Dundreunan, 174.
l)nndrum,96.
Dunfermliue, 177.
Dnnsarvan, 77.
Duufceld, 132.
Dunkirk, 4!9.
Route from Paris. 37.
Dunmanway, 53.
Dunnottar, Castle of, 180.
Dunoou, 115.
Dunrobin, 130.
Dunseverick, 99.
Dunstaffnage, 118.
Dnnvegan Castle, 129.
Durham, 23a
Diisseldorf, 5S1.
to Bremen, 614.
Route from London, 36 ; Paris, 3T.
E.
East, The, via Suez Canal : from London, 33.
Eastbourne, 227 1-3.
Eaux Bon nes, 441.
Route from Paris, 3T.
Eaux Chandes. 44'2.
Route from Paris, 37.
Ebal, Mount. 972.
Ebelsberg, 726.
Ebnat. 1133.
Eboli, 893.
Ecija. 1232.
Edane, 1469.
E'Dayr, 937.
Eden Hall, 258.
Eddystone Lisht-house, 271.
Bdfoo, 941.
Edinburtrli: Excursions in the vicinity of,
151: The Castle, Scott's Monument." l.V-':
National Gallerv, Royal Institution, UfL'i--
ter House, Calton Hill Monumei:
Giles's Cathedral, 153 : the University, Par-
liament Square, llolyrood Palace, l.>4 ;
Leith, Excursions. Arthur's Seat, Ho-pi-
tals, 157 ; Rosliu Castle, Dalkeith, 158.
Edinbur-rh to St. Andrews, 157, 178.
Route from London, 30 ; from Paris, 37.
Eegholm, 1332.
EL'eri.Lake of, 1136.
E>ri:ischhor]i.the, 1114.
Eirremont. ViUn.
Egypt, 016-444.
- Route from Paris, 37.
Voyage to Upper, 930.
Ehrenbreitsteiu, 683.
10
INDEX.
Ehrenbnrg, Castle of, 116C.
Ehrenfel8,6S9.
Bide, 1410, 1421, 1431.
Bidet, 13T2.
Eidsbugarden, 1423.
Eidsvofd, 1367.
Eidvoldeverk, 136T.
Eindhoven, 534 5-S.
Einingevik, 1421.
Einsiedelu, 1134.
Eisenach, 623.
- to Coburg, 624.
- Route from Paris, 3T.
Eisleben, 617.
Eivindvik, 1415.
Ekersnnd, 1419.
Ekonhorn, 1368.
Eksjo, 1474.
El Arish, 951.
El Chanka, 950.
El Perrol, 1207.
El Koola, 941.
Elaghinskoi, Palace at, 1518.
Elberfeld, 594.
Elbing, 607.
Elche, 1259.
Elephantine Island, 942.
Eleusis, 997.
Elgin, 134.
Elizavetirrad, 1535.
Elm, 1131.
Elsinore, 1321. Routes from, 1323
Eltville, 695.
Elverum, 136S.
Ely, 232.
Ernmaboda, 1473.
Etninnns, 956.
Emmerich, 534, 531.
- Route from Paris, 37.
Empoli, 843.
Kins, 696.
- to Coblentz, 696.
- Route from Paris', 37.
Engelberg, 1095.
Enghien, 389.
England and Wales, 183,290.
Eukhnysen, 534 3-8.
Eunis, 78.
Enniscorthy, 74.
Euniskillen, 90.
Entlebnch, 1107.
Entroneamento, 12S9.
Epernay, 481.
- Route from Paris, 37.
Epesses, 1041 .
Ephesus, 9S1 4-5.
- Route from Paris, 87.
Erbach, 6!>2, 697.
Erfurt, 622.
- to Goth a, 823.
-- Route from Paris, 37.
Esbjerg, 1337.
Escholzmatt, 1107.
E^clavitud, 1205.
E^curial, the, 1223.
Eski-Mouca, 9S1 3-5.
Eskilstuna, 1483.
Eslof, 1439.
Esne, 941.
Espailler, 453.
Espiel, 1232.
Essen, 581.
Esslingen, 669.
Estremoz, 1289.
Etampes, 402.
Etna, Mount, 906.
Eton, 242.
Etroubles, 1053.
Ettenheim, 673.
Euboea, Island of, 1000.
Enpatoria, 1536.
Evauger i Vos, 1411.
Evanton, 130.
Evesham, 265.
Evian-les-Bains, 1044.
Evolenn, 1058.
Evora, 1288.
Evreux, 392.
Route from Paris. 37.
Exeter, 270.
Exmouth, 270.
Eyrs, 1167.
F.
Faaborg, 1345.
Faeggeklit, 1333.
Faeggesuud, 1333.
Faemuud, Lake, 1369.
Faeuza, 820.
to Florence, 820.
Fagerlund i Nordre Aurdal, 1401.
Fagernaes, 1322.
Faido, 1105.
Falaise, 399.
Falkenbnrg, Castle of, 689.
Falkirk, 149.
Falkoping, 1459.
Falkland, 177.
Fall of Tiitschbach, 1095.
Falls of Aar, 1085.
of Altaba, 1190.
of Alterheiligeu, 702.
of the Clyde, 113.
of Fiskiim. 1389.
of Fressinone, 1065.
of Foyers, 125.
of Kaaterskill, 1555.
of Minnehaha, lf><>9.
of the Lednoch, 145.
of the Mohawk, 15S6.
of Montmorenci, 1559.
of Muoniokosi, 1391.
of Niagara, 1564.
of Reichenbach, 1<K2.
-of Rogie, 129.
of Sallenche, 1112,
of the Schinadrib.-icli. 1089.
of Sefiuliitschiue, IOIMI.
of St. Anthony, 15 ! 9.
of Tosa, 1104.
of Traun, 728.
of Trenton, 1557, 1564.
of Triberg, 672.
of Trollhatta, 1462.
of Uldefos, 14-29.
Falrnouth, 272.
Fnlsterbo, 1470.
Falun, 1476, 1479.
Famagtuu, 981 3-5,
Fanuin, 822.
Farayg, 943.
Fai leigh Castle, 289.
Past Castle, 165.
Faulhoru, the, 1091.
INDEX.
11
Faurbo, 1340.
Faversham, -2-29.
Fax.;, 1H44.
Fecamp, :'2.
Feio, Island of, 13i3.
Feldkirch, 1165, 1171.
Fend, lis:i.
Fermo, 823.
Fermny. ><
Fenian Nunez, 1248.
Ferns, 74.
Ktrnsteta, Ruins of, 1166.
Ferrara, 807.
to Bologna, S07.
Feihard, 73.
Fetsund, 1468.
Fettan, 11-20.
Feuchten, U4S.
Fez, 1247.
Fideriser Au,1136.
Fieberbrnnn, 1176.
Figueras, 1271.
Finale Marina, 743.
Fischbach, 1145.
Fischhorn, Castle of, 1171.
Fishkill, 1554.
Fiskum Falls, 1389.
Fitnne Lath-. T-'.i.
Fjaerlands Fjord, the, 1417.
Pjerri trier. 1881.
Fladmark i Gryten, 1397.
Flagstad, Inland of, 13S2.
Flannskjoldkro,1330.
Fl<?gere, 1050.
Fleimserthal, 1155.
Flen, 1444.
Flen-borg, 599,1317.
Fleskedal, 1424.
Flims, 1131.
Flint. .
Flirsch, 1166.
Flodden, 103.
Floors Castle, 161.
Florence: Hotels. Arno, 826; Bridges, DHO-
mo, Campanile, Statues, Battisterio di San
Giovanni, S27: Church of Santa Croce. ^-.'S :
Piazza of Santa Croce, La Santissima An-
iinn/i:ita,Cappellii di San Luca. Piazza dell'
Annunziata, Statue, of Ferdinand, Fotiud-
lin^ Hospital, Convent of Carmine, Church
of San Lorenzo, Sairrestia Vecchia, Sa-
grestia Nuova, 8-29 ; Latirentiun Library,
Church of San Marco, Santa Maria Nove'l-
la, 830: Piazza del Gran' Dnca, Stanze of
David, Michael An-relo, Savonarola, Piazza
Buonarotti, Palazzo Vecchio, Loggia diLan-
zi,Ufflzi Gallery, S31.S3-2 ; Tribune, Gems of
Antiquity, Btrnscan Museum, Hall of Bn-
roccio. Hall of Xiobe, Pitti Palm
Hall of Venus Hall of Apollo, Hall of Mars.
Hall of Jupiter, Hall of Saturn, Hall of the
Iliad, S34; Private Library, Boboli Gardens,
Academy of Fine Arts, Sltmeo di Storia
Naturale and Specola, Trihunu Galileo, S35 ;
Ptetare-galtorle*, Hiram Powers. Theatres,
836; Cas.-ine. Palazzo Riccardi, Biblioteca
Kiccardi, Stores, etc., 937; Zocchi Emilio,
s;7 ; I'oiririo Imperiale, Fiesole, Villa Torri-
giani. >:!<.
Florence to Rome, 838.
to Par;
to Rome, via Km poll, etc., *4H.
Ronte from London, 30; from Paris, 37.
Florida. 1579.
Route from New York, 1575.
Fliiriien, 14-28.
Flnela-Thal and Pass, 1137.
Fluelen, 1103.
Fochabers, 135.
Foggia, 823.
Fogstuen, i;i'.5.
Fold River, the, 1370.
Foligno, 841.
Route from Paris, 37.
Folkestone, 227 2-3.
Fondi, 873.
Fontainebleail, 380.
Route from Paris, 37.
Fonthill, 1553.
Forbach, 676.
Forde, 1430.
Forde Fjord, 1429.
Forfar, 179.
Forli, 821.
to Ravenna and Florence, 821.
Formazza, Valley of, 1115.
Formo i Throtten, 1394.
Forres, 132.
Forrest Hill, 227.
Fort Augustus, 125.
San Marco, 1579.
Snelling, 1569.
Ticonderoga, 1557.
Washington, 1553.
Fortnu, 1422.
Foseu, the, 1379.
Foslandsoseu, 1380.
Fossedal, 1332.
Fossegarden, 1394.
Fossombrone, 845.
Fountain of Elisha, 971.
Fountain of Moses, 945.
Foynes, 65.
Fragensteiu, Castle of, 115S.
France, 291-500.
Frankfort, 625.
to Berlin, 641.
to Cassel, 625.
to Prague, 64:i.
Frankfort-on-t he-Main : Ronte from London.
30 : from Paris, 37.
Frankfort-on-the-Oder, 608.
Franzenfeste, 1152.
Franzensbad, 643.
Franzenshiihe. llii-2.
Franenfeld.llOO.
Fredeusborg Palace, 1323.
Fredericia. 1313.
Fredei icksburgh. United States, 1578.
Frederiksborg Castle, 1324.
Frederikshorir. Palnce of, 1301.
Frederikedal, 1321.
Frederikshald, 1434, 1430.
Frederikshavn. ii;>9, 1334.
Frederiksstad. 1434.
Frcflerikssiind, 1325.
Frederiksviirk, 1324.
Freiberg, 646.
Route from Paris, 87.
Freiburg, 673.
Route from London, 30; from Paris,
Freienfeld, 1151.
Kivjlis. 474. 74'2.
French Money, Weights, and Measures, 293.
Circula'r Tickets. 3S6.
12
INDEX.
Freshwater: Route from Paris, 3T.
Fressinone, Falls of, 1065.
Fresvik, 1415.
Fribourg, 1070.
Friesach, 595.
Frijsenborg, 132T.
Friseuvold, 1328.
Frohlichsburg, Tower of, 1161.
Fronie, 289.
Frouingeu, 1411,1415.
Fruholm Island, 1386.
Frutigen,1075.
Frydenluud,1400,
Fngeu,1169.
Fuglenaes, Promontory of, 1385V
Fill pines, 1183.
Fur, Island of, 1333.
Fureso, Lake of, 132%.
Fnrness Abbey, 260.
Fiirstenberg, Castle of, 1161.
Fussen, 1166.
Fyeu, Island of, 1313.
G,
Gaard Botuet r T38ft.
. Hoel, 1396.
Novigeu, 1425x
Gaeta, 873.
Gaillou, 387.
Gairloch,181.
Gais, 1124.
Galdhoppig, the, 1422X.
Galenstock,.the, 1094.
Galixidi. 999.
Gal way , 83.
Gamla Lftdose, 14ii2.
GamlaPi>sala,1478.
Gaudia, 1263.
Gap, 470.
Gardino, T422.
Garlid i Sognedal, 1396,
Garnaes i Hans, 1412.
Gatehonse, 175.
Gau el Kebir, 938.
Gauno, Castle of, 1341.
Gavarnie, 436.
Gaza, 951.
IJebatsch, Cinder of, 1160.
' Jebel Silsileh, 942.
5efle, 1478.
Geisberg, 675.
Geilstein, 1172.
Geiranger Fjord, the, 1430.
Gelmerbach Falls, 1093.
Genera : Hotels, Carriages, Porters, Banker?,
Steamers, Bridges, 1031 ; Cathedral of St.
Pierre, Mnsee Roth, Mnsee Acadeniiqnp,
1032: Ronssean's Honse, Calvin's Library,
HStel de Ville, Arsenal, Model of Mont
Blanc, 1033 : Musee Fol, Botanical Gardens,
Genevese Club, English Chnrch, Manufact-
ures, Environs, Villas, 1034 ; Ferney, Excur-
sions, 1035.
Geneva, Lake of, 1036.
to Chamounix, 1045.
Various Routes from, 1036.
Route from London, 30 ; from Paris. ?,~.
Genoa : Hotels, History, Harbor, People, 7CO ;
Corso, Christopher Columbus, Monument.
Discovery of Cuba, Churches, Cathedral of
San Lorenzo, Relics, L'Annnnziata, 800 ; Si.
Ambrogio di Gesi>, Santa Maria di Carigna-
no, St. Stephano della Porta, San Mallei),
San Siro, Palaces, Palazzo Briguole, Palazzo
Pallaviciui, Palazzo Dorio Torsi, Palazzo
Balbi, Palazzo Reale, Palazzo Doria, 801 ;
Palazzo della Universita, Palazzo Dncale,
Bank of St. George, Public Institutions,
Accademia Ligustica delle Belle Arii, The-
atres, Manufactures, Cafes, Silver Filigi ee-
work, Villa Pallavicini, 802; Railways,
Steamers, Diligences, 803.
Genoa to Paris, 803.
to Milan, 803.
to Nice, etc., 803, 808.
to Pisa, 803.
to Florence, via Spezia, SOS.
Route from London, 30; from Paris, 37.
Gerizim, Mount, 972.
Gerloe, 1170. .
Germany, the Empire of, 547-703.
States of, 548.
Gerolstein, 679.
Gerona, 1270.
Gersan, 11t>2.
Gervais, Baths of, 1046.
Route from Paris, 37.
Gesler's Castle, 1096.
Gesteney, 1109.
Geyser Springs (Iceland), 1349.
Ghent, 518.
to Bruges, 520.
Route from Paris, 38,
Giant's Causeway, us.
Mountain, 989.
Giarre, 905.
Gibostad, 13S3.
Gibraltar. 1244.
to Tangier, 1245.
to Malaga, 1^48.
Ronte from London, 30 ; from Pan'*. 3S.
Giessbach Falls, 1092.
Gijon, I^(i2.
Gilleleic, 1322.
Giornico, 1105.
Girgeh,!3S.
Girgeuti, 899.
to Syracuse, 900.
Gisselfeld,'l.S41.
Gjendebod, 1424.
Gjendeosen, 1425.
Gjentofte, 1320.
Gjesvaer, 1379, 1386.
Gjolland, 1332.
Gjorslev, 1343.
Gjiivig, 1393, 1400.
Glamis Castle, 133.
Glarnisch, the, 1131.
Glarus, 1131.
Glasgow: Hotels, Commerce, Ship-bnilding,
109; the Cathedral, Exchange, 110 : Me-
chanics' Institute, Squares, Parks, Museum,
Kelvin Grove, University, 111; Bothwell
Castle, Hamilton Palace, Falls of the Clyde,
Excursions, 112, 113.
Glasgow to Edinburgh, 112.
to Inverness, ria Oban, 112.
to Oban, via Inver.iry, 112.
to Oban through Crinan Canal, 116.
Ronte from London, 30 ; from Paris, 38.
GVichenberg, 740.
Glenarn, 99.'
Glencoe, 121.
Glendaiouch, 75.
Glenelg, 148.
Gleugariff, 55, 99.
INDEX.
13
Glin, 65.
Glis, 1113.
Glogan, 629.
Gloggnitz, 750.
Glommen, the, 1352.
Gloucester, 273.
Gluck.-berg, Castle of, 1317.
Gmundrii. ~
Gneseu,608.
. 1444.
God, Island of, 1381.
Gohantes. 1-'4'J.
Gold Hill, 1570.
Goldnu, 1096.
Qolspii
Gomairoi, 749, 1101.
Gorge da Trient, 1112.
Gorge of Gondo, 10G5.
Gorham, l.V/J.
Giirlitz. t;i-.
Garner Grat, 1061.
Gorz, 733.
1151.
Gotha.
to Eisenach, 623.
Home from Paris, 33.
Gotha Canal, the, 1401.
Gothenburg, 1330, 1432.
Route from London, 30.
G6ttiii'_'i-ii, til-.
Kmite from Paris, 3>.
Gottland. Inland of, 14S".
Gozz<
Grampenhof, 1162.
Granada, 932, 126".
Route from Paris, 3S.
Grandson, 106T.
Grandnm, 1400.
Granollers, 1270.
mere, 254.
Gnu-stein, 1151.
Gratsch, 1168.
Griitz, 730.
to Linz, 733.
Rente from Paris, 38.
Gravdal, 1400.
Gravelotte, 676.
Graveseud, 217 2-8.
Great Britain, History aud Government of,
43-46.
Great Grimsby, 237.
Great Scheideck, 1092,
Greece, 991-lw>2.
and Turkey, 983-1002.
Greenock, 114.
Route from Paris, 38.
Greenwich. 217 2-8. Qreifenbure 1180
*Wftlde,M. uie 3n gl u '
!a! Valley, 1326.
Grenoble, 471.
Rome from Lyons, 470; from Paris, 38.
:iihel. mil.
i, 169.
1184.
Griino, 1421.
Grimsel. Hospice of the, 1093.
Grindflwald. UK'".
Gripsholm, Castle of, 14-:;.
Grodnerthal, 1153.
Grondal Stono. 1328.
Groiiin_'en. r.:;4 4--.
Grosotto, 1163.
Groto, 1382.
Grotto of Balme, 1046.
>f Osteno, 1106.
)f St. Paul. !>14.
Gruudsaei OkMia, 1369.
Gruyere, 111".
Uuailalajara, 1274.
Gubbi-
Giidhjem, K147.
Gudvaiitrfii i Anrland, 1411.
Gulsvik. Hi.:,.
Giirre, 1323.
Gulereloh, 6SO.
Gnttancn, 109i
Gutvig, 1380.
H.
Haag, 1171.
Haarlem, 533.
Haarlev, 1343.
Habo, 1467.
Haddiugton, 16g.
Hat".:, 1402, 14i>4.
Hiifvernd, H:.
Hagenan, 675.
Hague, the. 530.
to Amsterdam, 530.
to Haarlem and Helder, 534 2-8.
Ronte from London, 30; from Paris,
38.
Hainan, 629.
Hill. 52X
Hald. 1336.
Halifax, England, 264.
Hall, 1145.
HalliiiLjdal Route, the, 1403.
Hallaberg, 1475.
Hulm-tad, 1473.
Halsnaes, Peninsula of, 1325.
Halton. -';.'.
Haltwhi.-tle, 261.
Ham, the State Prison of, 497.
Hamar. 1368, 1393.
Hamburg, .v.i.'i.
to Copenhagen. 1312, 1313, 1317.
- to Frederikshavn, 1326.
to Stral-nnd, 557.
Route from London, 30; from Paris, 38.
Hamilton. Canada, 1566.
Hamilton Palace, Scotland, 113.
Hammerfest, 13^.
Hammerhnus, 1347.
Hammerotind, Island of, 1388.
Hammersteiu, Castle of, 682.
Hampton Court, 217.
Hanau, 625.
Handeck Falls, 1093.
Hanover, Kiiicdorn of, 577.
City of, 578.
to Bremen, Hamburg, Minden, etc.,
597.
to Hamburg, 640.
Route from London, 30; from Paris, 38-
Hanstead, 1370.
H.-iparanda. 1::!>1.
Ilapsburg, Castle of, 1073.
H.-irdaii-rer Fjord, the, 1420.
Hardenberg, 1342.
Hardewijk, 534 4-8.
Hnrfleur, 390.
HarliiiL'en, 5343-8.
Harslcv. 1341.
Harstadhavn, 13S2.
14
INDEX.
Hartford, United States, 1563.
Harvard College, 1563.
Harwich, 231.
llarz Mountains, 591.
Hasle, 1340.
Hastholmen, 1468.
Hastings?, England, 227.
United States, 1553.
Hasvik, 1385.
HatiL'an, 1389.
Hauges'.ind, 1420.
Haugsund Junction, 1406.
Haukelid Saeter, 1409.
Haut-Chatillon, 1114.
Haute-Combe, 1138.
Hants Geneveys, 1115.
Haveswater, 259.
Havnik, 1383.
HavOsund, 1386.
Havre, 391.
to Dieppe, 391.
to England, 391.
Route from London, 30; from Paris,
38.
II a wick, 173.
Hawlbowline Island. 50.
Hawthorndeu, 158.
Hay, 276.
to London, via Hereford, Gloucester,
and Reading, 270.
Headford, 86.
Hebron, 968.
Hecla, Mount, 1349.
Been, 1427.
Heidelberg, 698.
to Paris, 699.
to Frankfort, 699.
Route from London, 30; from Paris,
38
Heiflen, 1124.
Heilbronn, 667,670.
Heimdal, 1371, 1372.
Helder, the, 534 ;: ->.
Heleusburg, 114.
Hellebek, 1828,
Hellerup, 1320.
Hellesylt, 1430.
Helmsdale, 130.
Helsingborg, 1471.
Helsingfors, 1484.
Helvedeshol, Falls of, 1393.
Hemuaes, 1380.
Herculaneiim, 886.
Hereford, 274.
Herford, 580.
Herment, 941.
Hermitage Castle, 173.
Hermitaire Wines, 467.
Hermsdorf. 724.
Herning, 1339.
Hernosand, 1480.
Herrljunga, 1459.
Herzber
erg, 5!)-2.
Ilerzogenbuch. 1073.
Hessleholm, 1472.
Ilestniandsi). 1381.
Het Nieuwe Diep, or Willernsoord, 684 3-8.
Hexham, 261.
Hiero, 996.
Hililal, 1409.
Hildesheim, 577.
HillofHowth,71.
Hinnenip, 1327.
Hints to .Travelers, Introduction, xiii-xxriii.
Hirschberg, 724.
Hirtsholmeue, 1335.
Hitterdal Church, 1408.
Route, the, 1404.
Hjo, 1475.
Hjorring, 1334.
Hjortsdal Village, 1331.
Hobroe, 1329.
Hoch Eppnn, 1153.
Hochheim, 689.
Hoel, the, 1396.
Hof, 642.
Hohenschwangau, 1166.
Hohe Salve, 1174.
Hohlensteiu, 1172.
Hoirus, 1333;
Holaker, 1397.
Holbek, 1339.
Holland, or the Netherlands, 524-534 7-S.
Holmestrand, 1417.
Holsaet, 131)7.
Holsienborg, Castle of, 1341.
Holstebroe, 1337.
Holtaalen, 1372.
Holybrook, 76.
Holyhead, 250.
Holzkirchen, 1145, 1174.
Hombnrsr, 627.
Route from London, 31 ; from Paris, 38.
Honefos, 1427.
Honfleur, 393.
Hong Kong : Route from London. 31 ; from
Paris, 3a
Hoorn, or Horn, 534 3-8.
Horgen, 1088.
Horgheim i Gryten, 1397.
I Horley, 22f 1-3.
i Hornbak, 1322.
! Home Village, 1345.
j Hornileu Peak, the, 142a
Horsens, 1326.
Horsham, 2^*.
I Horsholm, 1319.
Horten, 1416.
Horup Bay, 1317.
Hospenthal, 1104.
Hospice of St. Christopher, 1165.
Hotel Byron, 1043.
Houlgate, 393.
Houukiar-Iskclessi, 989.
Hoven, 1372.
Hoxter, 593.
Huben, 1182.
Huddersfleld, 264,
Huddiksvall, 1480.
Hudson, 1555.
Hudson River, the, 1552.
Hull, 234.
Hnltsfred, 1474.
Humboldt Wells, the, 1570.
Hungerford, 267,
Huntingdon, 233.
Hnsbyfjol, 1465.
Hnsnm i Lnerdal, 1402.
Hvedholm, Manor of, 1346.
Hveen, Island of, 1319.
Hyeres, 474.
Route from Paris, 38.
Iceland, 1348.
Idlewild, 1554.
INDEX.
15
Iffezhelm Race-course, 702.
Iffigenbach, Falls of, 1109.
Ilfracombe, 285, 269.
Imhof, 1093.
Tmola,819.
Imst, 1150.
India, Routes to, 1572, 1573.
Indre Kvaro, 13*1.
Inglinge Ho-r. 1473.
Ingolstadt, i;r>7.
Inkerraan, 14-J^.
Inn, Castle of the, 1160.
Innspruck, 1145.
to Venice, 1172.
to Salzburg, 1173, 1176.
to Milan, 1177.
to the Oetzthal, 11S1.
from Munich, 1174.
to Colico (and Milan), over the Stelvio,
747.
to Verona, by the Brenner Pass, 749,
1175.
Route from London, 31 ; from Paris, 38.
Interlaken, 1076.
Excursions, 1088.
Route from London, 31 ; from Paris,
3s.
Inverary, 123.
Inverlochy Castle, 124.
Inverness, 126.
to Aberdeen, 126.
to Thureo, 126.
Inveroran, 145.
lona. 120.
Ipswich, 231.
Ireland, 46-100.
Routes in, 47.
Irvine, 126.
Ischia, Island of, 891.
Iserni'a, 875.
I-l.iiidof Gottland, 1480.
of Otlero, 1379.
of 8: i-omo, 1381.
Isle-, Loffoden, the, 1381.
Islc> of Greece, the, 990. T _ m .,; 9V >
Isolu Bella, 1106. Isnuilia, 952,
Issella, 746.
I -si lire, 452.
Italy, 741-894.
Itri, 873.
liter, C'nstle of, 1174.
Ivren, 796.
Jacksonville, 1579.
J.ulraqne, 1274.
Juegerspi us, 1325.
Jaffa, 955.
J.
to Jerusalem, 956.
Route from Paris, 38.
J.-irdiu, the, 1050.
Jativa, 1260.
Jedbnrgta, 161.
Jelliuge, 1326.
Jenatz, 1136.
Jenbach, 1145, 1175.
Jenin, 973.
Jerez de la Frontera, 1240.
Route from Paris. 38.
Jericho, 071 .
Jerkin, 1395.
Jeroskypos, 981 4-5.
Jersey City, United States, 1552.
Jerusalem, Approach to, 956, 957 ; Opinion of
Sir Frederick Henniker, Stanley's Firet
Sight, 957, 958; Modern Houses, Colonel
James Williams of Tennessee, Mosque of
Omar, Difficulty of Obtaining Admittance,
959; Solomon's Temple, Mount Moriah,
Es-Sukhrah, Holy of Holies, the Angel Ga-
briel and Mohammed, Population, Mosque
of El-Aksa, 960; Orange Fountain, the Med-
iterranean Hotel, Holy Places, '.Mil : Church
of the Holy Sepulchre (Ground-plan), 94M;
Minaret of Omar, Holy Sepulchre, 963; Cen-
tre of the Earth, Hill ofZiou, Last Supper,
963, 964: Calvary, Coenacnlnm, 964; Arme-
nian Convent, Jews' Wailing-place, Valley
of Jehoshaphat, Fountain of the Virgin,
the Virgin Mary Accused, Pool of Silotim,
Tomb and Chapel of the Virgin, 965; Gar-
den of Gethsemaue, Backsheesh, Mount of
Olives, Bethany, Tombs, Absalom's Tomb.
Pool of Bethesda, Via Dolorosa, Church of
the Flagellation, 966; Arch of the Ecc-J
Homo, Tower of David, 967.
Jerusalem to Hebron, 967.
to the Dead Sea, 969.
to Beyront, 971.
Route from London, 31 ; from Paris,
38.
Johannisberger, Castle of, 689.
John O'Groat's, 131.
Jonkoping, 1467.
Jotuuheiin, the, 1423.
Jordan River, the, 970.
Jnlier Pass, 1123.
Jungfran, the, 1090.
Jtirzon, 441.
Jnstednl Glacier, the, 1416.
Juterbogk, 615.
Jyderup, 1340.
K.
Kaardal Gaard, 1417.
Kaaterskill Falls, the, 1565.
Kaifa, 980.
Kaiserswacht, 1175.
Kalabshee, 044.
Kalafat, 738.
Kalamata, 1001.
Kallundborg, 1339.
Kaltenbrnnn, 1160.
Kandersteg, 1074.
Kandestederne, 1335.
Kiinso, 1433.
Karesuando, 1390.
Karlskoga, 1469.
Karlso, 1384.
Karlstein, W5.
Karmsund, 14-Ji'.
Kastnaeshavn, 1383.
Katriiieholm, 1443.
Kntwijk.532.
Knufbeuren, 668.
Kauns, 11S4.
Knnrokeino, 1390.
'.'75.
Ken I, 67.'.
Kells, 72,98.
Kelso, 162.
Kempen, 534 4-3.
16
INDEX.
Kendal, 252.
Kengis Bruk, 1391.
Kenilworth Castle, 244.
Keumare, 55.
Kenmore, 146.
Kenneh, 938.
Kertch, 1542.
to the Caucasus, 1542.
Keswick, 257.
Kexisvara, 1391.
Kharkoff. 1535.
Kiefersfeldeu, 1145.
Kiel, 1 :-:].'.
Route from London, 31 ; from Paris, 38.
Kil, 14119.
Kilehurn Castle, 14T.
Kildare, <!S.
Kilnnaue,63.
Kilkee, 65, 83.
Kilkenny, 72.
Killaloe, 80.
Killarney: Tore Mountain, 55; the Gap of
Dunloe,59; Magillicuddy'sReeks.GO; Black
Valley, 60; Tore Lake, 60; the Lakes jiud
Islands, 61 ; Rains of Muckross Abbey, Cil ;
Ruins of Aghadoe, 62.
Killamey : Route from Paris, 38.
Killybegs. 89.
Killyleagti, 80.
Kilmacdiiagh, 78.
Kilniacthoii)as,77.
Kilmallock, 63.
Kilmarnock, 166.
Kilmun, 123.
Kilruddery, 76.
Kil rush, 65.
Kilsmo, 1470.
Kilsyth, 149.
Kilworth, 59.
Kingston, Canada, 1566.
Kingstown, 71.
Route from Paris, 38.
Kinross, 140.
Kinsale,53.
Kippel, 1114.
Kirkcudbright, 174.
Kirkestnen, 1394.
Kirkevold, 1371.
Kirkland (Orkney Islands), 1348.
Kirkstnll, 263.
Kissiiigen Springs, 641.
Route from London, 31; from Paris,
38.
Kistraud, 1387.
Kiti, 981 3-5.
KitzbQhel, 1174.
Kjelstadlid, 1430.
Kjelvid, 1379, 1387.
KjeS, 1382.
Kjoerringo, 1382.
Kjoge, 1341.
Kjolle Fjord, 1387.
Klamm, 750.
Klampenborg, 1319.
Klausen, Switzerland, 1134.
Tyrol, 749, 1152.
Kleineu, 600.
Klippan, 1472.
Klosters, 1137.
Kloven, 1383.
Kniepass, 1166.
Knightou, 280.
Knockcroghery, 84.
Knocklong, 63.
Kobberdal, 1380.
Koft, 939.
Kolding. 1313.
Kom-Oml)o, '.142.
Komoru, 735.
Kougsberg, 1406.
Kongsvinger, 14<M.
Kongrivold on Dovre, 1396.
Kouigsberg, 607.
Konigsstein, 7'23.
Koping, 1476.
Kopmannbro, 1435.
Koppaug, 1309.
Kor.naes, l:^-J.
Korosko, 944.
Konklia, 981 4-5.
Koulleli, 989.
Kourou-Schechme, 9S7.
Kousgoundjouk, 989.
Kragero, 1418.
Krementschug, 1535.
Kreuth, 1175.
Kreuznach, 691.
Ki-imml, 1170.
Kringelen Hill, the, 13fl4.
Kroderem, 1404.
Krokan, 140s.
Kronberg, Castle of, 1321.
Kronoberg, Ruins of, 1472.
Krui)p Steel Fouudery, 5SL
Kryll)o, 1479.
Kiiblis, 1137.
Kuffstein, 1145.
Kulla Gunnarstorp, 1472.
Kundl, 1145.
KiiiiLrshatt. 1483.
Kursk, 1535.
Knssnacht, 1096.
Kvaal, 1372.
Kyleakin. 14s.
Kyles of Bute, 115.
La Bastide. 412.
La Chaux-de-Fonds, 1115.
La Comballaz, 1010.
La Enchina, 1259.
La Granja, 1224.
La Rochelle, 4(S.
Route from Paris, 38.
La Thuille, 1138.
Lachen, 1117.
Lacken, 512.
Laerdal, Valley of the, 1402.
Laerdalsoren, 14(>2, 1410, 1414, 142L
Laesovaerk, 1397.
Laesso, Island of. 1330, 1335.
Lago di Garda, 777.
Lago d' Iseo, 805.
Lanolin, 1474.
Lai bach, 731.
Lake Arresde, 1325.
Avernus, 800.
Bienne, 106S.
Bolmeu, 1440.
Boren, 1465.
Brenner, 1151.
Faeniund, 1369.
Fousingso, 1328.
Fnreso, 1319.
Geneva, 1036.
George, 1557.
INKKX.
17
Lake Hald, 1336.
Leman, lo:)7.
Lucerne, 1101.
Maggiore, llos.
Mahopac, 1553.
Malar, 14S2.
Mjoseii, 1::.V2, 136S.
Saelbo, 1371.
Siljan. 147'..
SkfiTid.-o.134a
8ror-Sj."i. 1 :;;'.'
of the Thousand Isles, 156.
ofThmisee. 1177.
of Uri. 110-2.
Wenern, 1443.
Wettern, 1404.
Yasuie, MI.
Lakes of En-land, .'52-259.
of Ireland, 4>.
Lam peter, 98L
Lanark, Hi!.
Lancaster, 2S1.
Landau, 675.
Laudeck, ll.V.t, 1166.
LandeiTL', Castle of, 1160.
Landei
Landerou. i
Landro, li7-.'.
Land's End, 271.
Landshut. 272.
Landskrona. 1471.
Laudevaerk. 14<>f>.
Laugna, 132$, 1336.
Langeland, Island of, 131S.
LiUIL'i'-Ullil. 141>.
Lantrnau, 1107.
Lan^on, 411'.
Lan-_'n'S. 471".
Liinnemezai), 428.
Lapio, L:\ke of, 1176.
Lapps, tlie, 1371.
Lai-L's, 115.
Larnaca, !81 8-5.
Larne, KNi.
La- Caldas de Besnra. 1200.
Las ( 'asetas, 127(>.
La* Veutas de Alcolea, 1231.
I.asswade, 171.
Latakia, '.NI.
Lathrop, 1571.
Laulelrtui.'en, 1069.
Laargaiurd, i:;'.i5, 142-2, 14-23.
Laurvik, 141 -.
Lau.anne: Hotels, 1039 ; C'athedral, Terrace,
Miiscnins. Blind Asylum, the Signal, Cem-
etery, Excursions, 10^10. I<i41.
Lausanne: Routes from, 1041.
to Arona on Liike Maggiore, over the
Simplon, 745.
to Basle. 1070.
to Neufchatel, 1067.
Route from London, 31 ; from Paris,
H.
Laval, 400.
Laveoo. T'.'i.
Lavin. 11-2(5.
Lavis. 1155.
Laxa, 1461, 1470.
Lebanon Springs, 1655.
LeHestty. K:7.
Lefos, 19ft.
LeTtauger, 1415.
Leksaud, 1479.
Le Locle, 1116.
Le Mans, 399.
Le Pont, 1116.
Le Prese, 1123.
Le Puy, 453.
Leamington, 243 ; Kenllworth Castle, 244.
Lebadea, 1000.
Lebensberg, Castle of, 1168.
Lebrija, l-24>.
Lebrilln, 1257.
Lecce, 824.
Leeds, 238.
Leenane, 87.
Leer, tH.
I.eeuwarden, 534 3-8.
I^eghorn, 842.
to Rome, 842.
Route from London, 31 ; from Paris, 38.
Leicester, -234.
Leipzig, 619.
to Nuremberg, 629.
Route from London, 31 ; from Paris.
39.
Leisach, 1180.
Leiih, 157.
Leixlip, s->.
Lemau, Lake, 1036.
Lend. 1171, 1174.
Leugdorf, 1171.
Lengenfeld, 1182.
Lenk, 1109.
Leominster, '274.
Leon, 1201.
Leondari, 1001.
Lepanto, 998.
Ler, 1372.
Lercara, 899.
Lerida, 1271.
Lermoos, 1666.
Letup, 1332.
Lervik, 1415, 1420.
Les Con tanii lies, 1051.
Leuca, 825.
Leuchars. 178.
Lenk. lu::;.
Lenkei bad. 1074.
Route from Paris, 39.
Levanger, 1.389, 1391.
Lewes, 227 1-3.
Lewiston, 1566.
Leyden, 532.
Li bourne, 412.
Licata, 900.
LidkOping, 1460.
Liege, 515.
Route from Paris. 38.
Lien z, 1180.
Liestal, 1069.
Liljebolmen, 1445.
Lilla Edet.141 1 .-.'.
Lille, 499.
Lille Elvedal, 1370.
Lillebrot:. Hnins of, 1346.
Lillehammer, 1393.
I.illestrrim, 1
Litnasol, 9S1 3-6.
Limbnrg, 628.
Limerick. 64.
Lace from Brussels, 64.
I.imoires. 444.
I.inarcs, 1-231.
Lincoln . England, 237.
United Slates, 1570.
18
INDEX.
Liudau, 668.
to Augsburg and Wurzburg, 667.
Linkopiug, 1441.
Linlithgow, 150.
Li nth Canal, 1117.
Liuththal, 1134.
Linz, 682, 726.
Lion, the, of Lucerne, 10S7.
Lipari Islands, the, 902.
Lisbon, 1284.
Rome from London, 31 ; from Paris, 39.
Lisburn, 95.
Lisieux, 392.
Lismore, 57.
Lissadill, 88.
Listad i Sondre Fron, 1394.
Listowel, 65.
Liternnm, 890.
Little Belt, 1317.
Little Falls, 1564.
Liverpool, 240 ; Birkenhead, 246.
to Lancaster, Penrith, and Carlisle, 250.
Route from London, 31; from Paris, 39.
Routes of Travel from, 241.
Lizzana, Castle of, 1156.
Llandovery, 280.
Llaudndno, 249.
Llangollen, 2SO.
Lobau, 725.
Locarno, 1105.
Loch Ard, 142.
Corruisk, 182.
Dochfour, 125.
Earn, 146.
Etive, 117.
Fine, Scotland, 117.
Katrine, 134.
Leven, 121.
Linnhe, 121.
Lochy, 125.
Lomond, 134.
Menteith, 141.
Ness, 125.
Oich, 125.
Scavaig, 181.
Skene, 160.
Loches, Castle of, 40*.
Lochs of Scotland, 106.
Lockerby, 170.
Lodi, 812.
Lodingen, 1379, 1381, 1382.
Lofer, 1171, 1176.
Loffelhorn, the, 752.
Loffoden Islands, Group of, 1351, 1331.
Lofihus, U-.'l.
Logrono, 1276.
Logstor, 1333.
Loitsch,751.
Loja, 1250.
Loin Church, 1422.
London : Routes from, 183 ; Statistics, Dis-
tricts, 184 ; Hotels, Lodgings, Restaurants,
185; Sights, 186, 187: Tour around, 188;
Hints to Travelers, 189; Parks, 190; Albert
Monument, Hyde Park, 101 ; Squares. 193 ;
Coveut Garden Market, 194: the Monu-
ment for the Great Fire, Westminster Ab-
bey, 195; Monuments and Memorial Tab-
lets, 196; the Houses of Parliament, 197:
nn Opening of Parliament, Westminster
Hull, the Thames Embankment, St. Paul's
Cathedral, 198; Temple Church, St. Bar-
tholomew the Great, St. Savionr, St. Mary- ;
le-Bow, St. Mafy-le-Savov, 199; St. James's,
Piccadilly, St. Martin - in - the - Fields, St.
Helen's, St. Giles's, St. George's, St. Ste-
phen's, Spurgeou's Tabernacle, Whitehall
Chapel, the Tower of London, 200; the
Horse Armory, the Jewel-house, the British
Museum, 201 ; the National Picture-gallery,
202; the South Kensington Museum, the
National Portrait-gallery, the Hoyal Albert
Hall of Arts, Soane's Museum, 203 ; East
India Museum, Royal College of Surgeons,
United Service Museum, Museum of Prac-
tical Geology, Madame Tussaud's Wax-
works, Buckingham Palace, 204; St. James's
Palace, Whitehall, Marlborou<_'h House,
Kensington Palace, Lambeth Palace, Aps-
ley House, 205 ; Stafford House, Northum-
berland House, Bridgewater House, Grosve-
nor House, Devonshire House, Montague
House, Norfolk House, Holland House,
Manchester House, Robert Peel's House,
Bank of England, Royal Exchange, '.'(Hi ;
Mansion House, Guildhall, General Post-
office, Custom-house, Somerset House, Bur-
lington House, Hall of Science, Annual Ex-
hibition of Pictures, 207; University of
London, Royal Mint, Treasury Buildings,
Horse Guards, Stock Exchange, Schools,
Colleges, Learned Societies and Hospitals,
the Foundling Hospital, 208 ; London
Bridge, Southeastern Railway Bridge,
Blackfriar's Bridge, London and Dover
Bridge, Hungerford Bridge, Waterloo
Bridge, Westminster Bridge, other Bridges,
the Thames Tunnel, Thames Embank-
ment, Holborn Viaduct, St. Catharine's
Docks, London Docks, other Docks, St.
Pancras Railway Station, Great Western
Railway Station, 209; Victoria Station,
Charing Cross Station, other Stations,
Clubs of London, 210; London Market*,
Theatres, 211 ; Cremorne Gardens, Kew
Gardens, Music Halls, Derby Day, Ascot.
Day, 212; Alexandra Palace,212-215; Royal
Aquarium, Cemeteries, 215; Barclay and
Perkins's Brewery, Tradesmen Recom-
mended, 216; Sydeuham Crvetal Palace,
186, 287.
London Excursions from: Windsor Castle,
Richmond, 217 ; Hampton Court, Green-
wich, Dulwich, 218.
London : Route from Paris, 39.
Routes to All Parts of the World, 29-33.
to Bath, Bristol, and Clifton, 267.
to Bedford, Nottingham, etc., 234-236.
to Birmingham and Liverpool, 239-242,
to Brighton and Isle of Wight, 218-
to Christiania, via Christiansnnd, 1366.
to Ely, Norwich, Cambridge, Yar-
mouth, etc., 230-232.
to Dover, via Chatham, 228.
to English Lake District, 252.
to Epsom, Tuubridge Wells, etc., 227,
to Folkestone and France, 227.
to Harwich and "Holland, 230.
to Hastings, Chiselhurst, and Tun-
bridge Wells, 226.
to Land's End, 267.
to Maidstone nnd Folkestone, 227.
to Oxford, Kenilworth, etc., 264.
287.
226.
287.
INDEX.
19
London to Paris, 228, 288, 294, 300.
to Ramsgate and Maiyati', 2ss.
to Rochester, Canterbury, Dover, 22*.
to Scarborough, 234.
t<> Winchester and Southampton, 286.
London, (':iii:ula, 1567.
Londonderry, s '.>.
to Glasgow, 90, 100.
Route from London, 31 ; from Paris, 39.
Lone, 1412.
Longarone, 1173.
Longeborgne, Hermitage of, 1058.
Longford, *'.
Longaeriue, 301.
Longwy, 496.
Loppen, 13S4.
Lorca, 1257.
Loreto, 823.
Lough Currane, 81.
Gnr, 63.
Neagh, 94.
Louisville, 1568.
Lonrdes, 431.
Louth. 2:ss.
Louviiin, 521.
Lovero, 1163.
Lowei-z, 1097.
Lowther Castle, 259.
Lubeck, MM;.
Lucca, 825.
to Pisa, 825.
Lucerne, 1086.
to Como, over the St. Gothard, 746.
Route from London, 31 ; from Paris,39.
Luchon, 424.
Excursions from, 426-428.
Ludlow, 274.
Ludvika, 1476.
Ludwigslust, 595.
Lneg, Ruins of, 1151.
Luiraiio, T'.IO, 1106.
to Luiuo, 790.
Lugo, 813, 1203.
Luino, 790, 1105.
to Pallanza nnd Stress, 790.
Lukm.'inier Pass, 1133.
Lulea, 1480.
Lumphanan, 137.
Lund, 1437, 1470.
Lundby, 1341.
Lundeinn, 1372.
Lumk'i-sknv, 1338.
Lunebiirg, 641.
I.nncvillr, I'.'-J.
Lungern, 1035.
Lusigiian, 40S.
Lutry, 1041.
Luxembourg, 494.
Liu, 435.
Lyddn, or Lood, 956.
Lyngby,1819.
IA-II-CII Fjord. i:;*4.
Lynffnolmen, 14-JO.
Lyngseldet, 1383.
Lynn Kesris, '232.
Lyo, Island of, 1345.
Lyons: Hotels, Silk-looms, etc., 455 1-3-456.
to Geneva, 456.
to Strasburg, 4'.'>.
Route from London, 31; from Paris, 89.
Lysi- Fjord, the, 14t!.
Lyster Fjord, the, 1416.
Lysthuus i Hitterdal, 1408.
M.
Maabdeh, 937.
Kaalmaea, 1379,1383.
Maa.-.i, 13Mi.
Mackinac, Island of, 1568.
Maeon, 407.
Macroon, 54.
Macngnaga, loft!, HM3G.
Madeira, Island of: Route ftiim London, 81.
Madrid: Hotels, 1210; Climate, 1211; Man-
uers and Customs, l'.'1-J; 1'uerta del Sol,
Prado, Royal Palace, Coach-house and Ar-
mory, 1213 ; Naval Museum, Museum of
Natural History, 1214; Library, Theatre*,
1215; Royal Picture-gallery, 1215-1220;
Academy of San Fernando, 1220 ; Churches,
Cemeteries, Hospitals. 1221 ; Government
Buildings, Royal Carpet Manufactory, 1'ra-
do, Casn del Campo, El Prado, 1222; the
Escnrial, 122:-!, l'-'24.
Madrid to Toledo, 1225.
Route from London, 31 ; from Paris, 39.
Madulein, 1125.
Maestricht, 534 6-S.
Magadino, 747, 1105.
Magdeburg, 587.
to Berlin, 068.
to Hrunswick, 588.
to Kreienseii, 592.
Route from Paris, 39.
Magenta, 791.
Maglehdr, the, 1325.
Magilligan, 90.
Magland, 1046.
Mahopac Lake, 1553.
Maidstone, 227 -3.
Mainan, 1082.
Mainland Island, 1348.
Maintenon, 398.
Main/, or Mayeuce, 692.
Malaga, 1249.
Route from London, 81; from Paris, 39.
Malanger Fjord, the, 13S3.
Malar Lake, 1482.
Malcesine, 777.
Miilen, 1392.
Malestrom, the, 1351, 138.
Maliues, or Mechlin, 612.
to Antwerp, 513.
Mallow, 55,59.
Malmaison, 3S2.
Malmanger, 1371.
Malnn"), 1 ::.
Malmft, Island of, L484.
Maloja Pass, 1129.
Mais, 748, 1161.
Malta, MO-MB.
to Alexandria, 915.
to Lanis, 915.
Route from London, 31.
Malvern, 2i<;.
Mammoth Cave (Kentucky), 1569.
Manchi-sier, '-'40.
Route from Paris, 39.
Manfaloot, 937.
Mannup, 1541.
Mannheim. 697.
Mantngne.241.
Manilla, ^n.Y
. - to Cirmona.806.
- to r'anna. --nr..
- . to Reggio, 806.
20
INDEX.
Manilla: Route from Paris HO.
Mauzaimres, 1230, 1-J7T.
Mar Saba, 969.
Marathon, 995.
Marburg, 623, 730, 7W i.
Marche, 518.
Mareilla, 1276.
Mareugn, 797.
Margate, 288.
Margaux, 415.
Manager, 1329.
Maribo, 1342.
Mariefred. U e
Marienbad, 725 ; Ronte from Paris, 39.
Alarienburg, 606.
Marienlyst,~1321.
Mariestad, 1461.
Marifjaeren, 1416.
Maristuen i Laerdal, 1402.
Marlborough, 267.
Marly, 1520.
Marsala, 900.
Marseilles : Hotels, History, Steamers, 471-
473.
Route from London, 31; from Paris, 39.
Marelev, 1314.
Martigny, 1055.
Route from Paris, 39.
Martinswaud, 1158.
Martorel, 1266.
Mart res, 423.
Maryborough, 6S.
Masnedsuud, 1342.
Massa, 809.
Matarengi, 1391.
Matlock, 246.
Matrey, 1150.
Matt, 1131.
Matterhorn, the, 1060, 1062.
Maubeuge, 497.
Miiuchline, 127, 166.
Maiikhalid, 981.
Mayence, or Mainz, 692.
Route from London, 31 ; from Paris, 39.
Mayenfeld, 1119.
Maynooth, 82.
Mazzara, 900.
Meaux, 480.
Mechlin, or Malines, 512.
Route from Paris, 39.
Medemblik, 534 3-8.
Medinaceli, 1274.
Medina del Campo, 1208.
Medina de Rio Seco, 1208.
Medijia-Sidonia, 1244.
Meddfc, 413-415.
Megara, 998.
Megaspelion, 998.
Meilen, 1117.
Meillerie, 10-14.
Meiuingen, 624.
Meiringen, 1091.
Meissen, 619.
Me.) del, 975.
Melbourne, Routes to, 1574.
Melfl, 893.
Melhus, 1372.
Melleck, 1176.
Mellerud, 1434.
Mel rose, 159.
Melnn, 741.
Mem, 1466.
Menaggio, 789.
Mengabrit, 1278.
Menjeba, 1231.
.Menione, 476.
Route from Paris, 39.
Meppel, 534 4-8.
Meran, 1167, 1177.
Merida, 1278.
Merok, 1430.
Mersina, or Mersa, 981.
Merthyr Tydvil, 277.
to Brecon and Hay, 276.
Messina, 903.
to Athens, 906.
to Malta, Constantinople, and Alexan-
dria, 906.
Messina to Syracuse. 904.
Route from Paris, 39.
Routes by Steamers from, 904.
Metz, 670.
Meuug, 403.
Mezieres, 495.
Middelfahrt, 1313.
Middelburg, 526.
Miedero, 1183.
Milan: Hotels, Palaces, Churches, etc., 780-
786.
to Florence, 787, 812.
to Genoa, 803.
to Lake Como, 787.
to Paris, 786.
to Turin, 791.
to Venice, 787.
Route from London, 31 ; from Paris, 39.
Mileto, 893.
Millport, 115.
Mils, 1159.
Milwaukee, 1568.
Minde, 1368.
Minden, 579.
from Hanover, 579.
Route from Paris, 39.
Miuyeh, 936.
Mirabeau, 469.
Miraflores, 1198.
Miranda de Ebro, 1196.
Miseno, 890.
Missoloughi, 998.
- to Athens, 998.
Mistra, 1001.
Mitchellstown,5S.
Mittelberg, 1184.
Mittelhorn, the, 1091.
Mittenberg, the, 1119.
Mitterbad, 116S.
Mittersil, 1171, 1174.
Mittewald, 749, 1151.
Mittewald on the Drave, 1180.
Mjolby, 1441, 1475.
Mjoseii Lake, 1352, 1363.
Mjiisstrand, 1409.
Mo, 1380.
Modane, 477.
Route from Paris, 39.
Modena, 814.
Route from London, 32 ; from Paris, 39.
Modica, 901.
Modon, 1001.
Moelen, 1388.
Moen, 1394, 1409.
Moerdijk, 528.
Moffat, 170.
Mogen, 1409.
Moheda, 1440.
INDEX.
21
MoisMic, 420.
Molde, 1398, 1431.
Moldestad, 14:;.
Moleson, the, 110S.
Molins, 112-.'.
Molmen, 1397.
Mombegno, 749.
Monaco. 476.
Route from I'aris, 39.
Money Kind to Carry, xv.
Monlatrol. 1271.
Monniouth. 274.
Moiirenle, S98.
MODS, 523.
Monserrat, 1269.
Montarsiis, 44!.
Montaoban. 420.
Monlliiird, 458, 741.
Montbeliard, 493.
Mont Blanc, Ascent of, 1049.
C'enis Tuunel, 744.
Dore, 4.V.'.
St. Michel, 395.
Teudre, 1116.
Torreuthoni, 1074.
Velan, 1056.
Montboyon, 1110.
Monte Fnlcinno, 844.
Rosa, 1063.
Sissone, 1129.
Monteleone, s'.(2.
Montelimar, 468.
Montcreau. 457, 741.
Monlevanchi, 839.
Montferrand, 415.
Montgomery, 128.
Montljo, 1278.
Montilla, 1248.
Montmedy, 496.
Montmelian, 477, 744.
MonMnocenci, Falls of, 1559.
Montmorency, 390.
Moutpellier, 447.
Route from Paris, 39.
Montplaisir, lf>2<.
Montreal, 1557.
Moutreux, 745, 1043.
Montrenx-Territet, 1043.
Route from Paris, 39.
Mont rose, 180.
Mon /on, 1272.
Mon/os, 1199.
Moo-. 1182.
Morat, 1071.
Morbfirno, 1129, 1164.
Moreton, 265.
Morirarten, Battle of, 1130.
Moires, 1039.
Morkfos Falls, 1416.
M5rkov, 1340.
Morlaix, 400.
Morocco, s>4Ci.
Morso. Island of, 1333.
Moscow : Hotels, the Kremlin, etc., 1523-1532.
Route from London. 32 : from I'aris, :.
Ronte to Ode a, I ;:;-!.
to Nijni Novgorod, 1533.
Moses, the Fountain of, '.'45.
Moss 1417.
Motnla, 1464, 1475.
Mot ril. 1257.
Mottet, 1052.
Moulins, 449.
Mount CannH, !-HI.
Etna, 906.
Harry, 227 1-3.
Hecla, 1349.
Horeb, 947.
Parnapcus. w.>.
Tabor, 974.
Vesuvius, ss4.
Washington, 1500.
Minln, 1179.
Mulilbach, 1179.
Mfihlhanaen, 680.
Miihlheim, 673.
Mn I bouse, 480.
Mtillingar, 82.
Munich : Hotels, Public Bnildiuas, etc., 64t-
662.
to Augsburg, 663.
to Frankfort, 666.
to Inn>|inick, 1174.
to Lindau, liii^i.
to Paris, 663.
Ronte from London, 32; from Paris,
38.
Munkholm, Fortress of, 1389.
Mmmoth, Castle of, 718.
Munster, 614.
Muoniokosi, Falls of, 1391.
Muottathal, 1131.
Muradn Saeter, 144.
Murat, 454.
Murcia, 1257.
Murren, 1090.
Murviedro, 1263.
Mtirzzschlag, 750.
Mnstad, 1400.
Mutterberger Alp, 1184.
Mycense, 996.
N.
Nablous, 972.
Naes, 1404, 1427.
Nago, 1176.
Nah ed-Damour, 979.
Nakkehoved,1322.
Nakskov. 1343.
Namsen Fjord, the, .1379.
Namsos, 1379, 1388, 1389.
Namtir, 515.
Route from Paris, 39.
Nancy, 491.
Nant'Borant, 1052.
Nantes, 401, 405.
Route from Parts, 39.
Naples : Hotels, Cabs, 875 ; History, Fortifica-
tions, 876; Churches, the Duomo, Basil-
ica of Santa Restituta, Cnppella del Te-
soro, the Liquefaction, S.-uiia Maria della
Pietra di Sanuri, ->77 : ( liristmas, C'emeter-
ies, Palaces, Libraries, ^7^ : Mu-eo Xazio-
uale, 879-881 ; Villa Naz.ionale, Aquarium,
Zoological Station, Observatory, Univci.-i-
ty, Catacombs, Theatres, English Church,
etc., 861; Excursions in the Environs, 882-
890.
Naples to Cairo, 891.
to Fnggia, 873.
to Messina, 891.
to Palermo. s;U, 894.
to Paris. s'.M.
to Salerno, 882, s'.M .
to Taranto, s.i:;.
Ronte from London, 32 ; from Parig,I9.
INL'EX.
4 :--
.1UBL
h '.. ::CT.
Hw5ft, im, iiaa.ua
. | ^..^r
Jfew Hno, Uufteft State*, ISM.
Eaa?""
XJ
T~L---. ^
MV^WH!
w^M.ta
>>i.- v :*
ACwMBM A boer. JUIt
Jtewto^Stewan, J75.
- nrt,*L
4T4. 4Tr, :
Or^-n^. ML
ObadnadMns,119K.
;::4.
H .
-to]
to]
Rnate frnrn !
MK*
M
net
tMkv
r. ::'.".
f --.-. :i-.-\-.4i:.'
Odessa.
Oe*ebieo Thai, MT4.
Oetxtltt.
OeuxbaL 11SI.
Offenbach. 9L
OCtMu Fjord, the, 13SX.
OUad,133X.
i- ;*:>. i~-
OMeobare. *
Utdere,UMl
V. Ti.
Oiirobe, im.
ovt-rr. :.4T.
Otoavli
to Bade. 1MB.
Route frum Para, .
OaiBejdah,.
Onberg Xontau, MM.
,m
L
(mm Pan*, .
..
6rebro,HT5.
Oreboved, fttt.
Orel,]
Orleans,
O-rnr I Oqrtn . :-:$:.
Onno, Island ot HS4.
OraMwte.1111.
<*, 11ML
Ortler9pitc.11Mi.Utt.
Onrtate,MK
o<. on
.
inlkc, :-:^.
(M^XMT.
Roa le from Lflodoa, 31 ;
MM.
froai Paris,
K --ke. :^:.
Ottawa.
Padva: BotelB. DaMao, Chnckn, &, 1H-
TTi.
PadIa,M*.
Faric..
Ri
r-,
Pal
PaIlaa*a,M,ll
Kovte troai Paris, 4*.
PxranHlw de la Kben, MW.
Paradfetakkeae, IMS.
Ptuedes de Kan, un.
Paiw: Apprruca 6x>n Room, 3*1 :
tke Oc-
tory of Paris, MC; theWa
M7, MB; Diary of th War, the TWen
GUI !>!, the Coaiawae art the On*.
eraM*t,MR-X18; Lerioa of Havor, ATBIT,
VtortiftcatkwB,n8: CVwrte. Triboafe, art
^_- - * - - , ^
t^vn dflauBmraooav, iv;
Prima,art Qntwrioaal
3: Oildtca of AiaerkaM
Death* of AMerkaae in Frame
Pan* for Fifteen Days, 39:
Bfeht DayaTlbr To
SSS : Dajs art How? i
. ^iwMMMte, art lArariee CM he
YMted. MS: Theanvs, Xew Openhhoiae.
o - Day,
etcw3M-9Ki; OoownsPsWk-
Glacier, m 3 : Bate MatqaeX
:-.
Ml ; the New Boato-
O4;lheBiidHJfe.
cwntaiw.Co-
PfaKe de te Bonae, Place
da ChAteaa d'Kaa, Place
Place del. Concorde of
24
INDEX.
Louis XV., Obelisk of Luxor, Place Dau-
phine, Arc <le Triomphe de 1'Etoile, 338;
Place de Greve, Place Louvois or Richelieu,
Place du Palais Bourbon, Pantheon, Place
Porte St. Denis, Porte St. Martin, Statue of
Ney, of Henry IV., Fontaines tie 1'ArbreSec,
de la Rue de Grenelle, des Innocents, Mo-
liere, Garden of ihe Tuileries, 340: Garden
of the Luxembourg, Champs filysees, Uond
Point, Arc de 1'fitoile, Bois de Boulogne,
Avenue du B. de Boulogne, Porte Dauphine,
341 ; Hippodrome de Lougcnamps, Cascade
Longchamps, Alice Longchamps, Theatre
des Fleurs, Croix Catelan, 34-2; Churches,
Chapel of St. Ferdinand, Cathedral of Notre
Dame, 343; Church of St. Roch, the Made-
leiue,344; Notre Dame de Lorette.Cliurch of
St. Eustache, Church of SL Germain 1'Aux-
errois, Church of St. Sulpice, 345; Church
dn Val du Grace and Hopital Militaire,
Church of St. fiiienne du Mont, Church of
Vincent de Paul, 346 ; Notre Dame des Vic-
toires, Saint Chapelle, American Chapel,
347; Palaces of the Tuileries and Louvre,
347, 348 ; the old Louvre, Colonnade dn Lou-
vre, Tower of ihe Louvre, Palais de I'Elysee
Napoleon, 349; Palais Royal, Palais du Lux-
embourg. 350 ; Palace of the Legislative
Body, 351; Palais de I 1 Industrie, Palais dn
Quai d'Orsay, Palais de la Legion d'Hon-
neur, Palais de 1'Iustitut, 352; Hotel des
Etrangeres, the Institur, Hotel de Ville,
Bauque de France, the Bourse or Exchange,
353; Mint, Imperial Carpet Manufactory,
354; Government Printing-office, Govern-
ment Porcelain Manufactory, Government
Tobacco Factor}-, General Post-office, Plate-
glass Warehouse, the Pantheon, 355; Hotel
Pompeien, the former Mansion of Prince
Napoleon, Maison de Francois I.,Maison de
Corneille, Maison de Racine, Sports, Races,
356; Jockey Club, Hippodrome de Lonsr-
champs, 357"; Museums, Art Galleries. :;. r >7-
365; Museum of the Louvre, Museum of
Paintings, Drawings, Sculpture, etc.. 357-
364; Expiatory Chapel, Hotel de Cluny,
Palais des Thermes, Private Collections,
etc., 365; (educational Establishments, the
Sorboune, Palais and ficole des Beaux Arts.
366; BibliothOque Imperiale, .lardin des
Phillies, 367 ; the Menagerie. Museum of
Natural History, Conservatoire des Arts,
36S; Hospitals, "Almshouses. 369 ; Mont de
Piete, Creches. Hotel des Invalides. :;7n :
ficole Militaire, 371; Military Hospitals,
Markets, Tattersall's, Abattoirs, Artesian
Wells, 372; Canal de 1'Ourcq, Sewers, Cata-
combs, Cemeteries, 373: Tradesmen Recom-
mended, 374; Bankers. Physicians, and Law-
yers, 376, 377 ; Restaurants, General Advice
to Travelers, etc., 376, 377 ; Exposition, 377.
Paris to Calais, Route No. 110, 296.
to Dieppe, Route No. ill. 3^6.
to Havre, Route No. 112, 390.
to Cherbourg. Route No. 113, 392.
to Brest. Route No. 114. :','.'7.
to Copenh.iL'en. Route No. 115, 1297.
to Nantes, Route No. llf>, 4111.
to La Rochelle, Route No. 116, 407.
to Poitiers, Route No. 117. 409.
Paris to Bordeaux, Route No. 118, 419.
to Bayonue, Route No. 119, 423.
to Orleans, Route No. 120, 443.
to Narbonne, Route No. 121, 446.
to Mimes, Route No. 122, 450.
to Lyons, Route No. 123, 454.
to Nice, Route No. 124. 457.
to Geneva, Route No. 125, 476.
to Geneva, via Dijon, 1029.
to Dijon, Route No. 126, 478.
to Basle, Route No. 127, 478.
to Basle, via Belfort, 1029.
to Strasburg, Route No. 128, 480.
to Lyons, Route No. 129, 4'.'--'.
to Luxembourg, Route No. 130, 493.
to Thionville, Route No. 131, 494.
to Cologne, Route No. 132, 496.
to Brussels, Route No. 133, 498.
to Berne, via Dijon, 1029.
to Genoa, 741.
to St. Petersburg, 1490.
to Turin. 743.
to Vichy. 741.
Route from London, 32.
Routes from, to all parts of the world,
34-42.
Parma: History, the Ducal Palace, Farnese
Theatre, Museum, 813; Churches, Palazzo
del Giordano, the Stradoue, 814.
Parma to Reggio, 814.
Route from London, 32 ; from Paris,
40.
Parpan, 1122.
Passage per Steamships, xviii-xx.
Passau, 727.
Passeyrthal, 1151.
Passports Regulations regarding United
States, xv et seq.
Pastarena, 1066.
Paternion, 1181.
Patmos, 983.
Patras, H&
Patseher Kofel, 1150.
Patterdale, 259.
Patti, 903.
Pan, 438.
Excursions from : Rides on the Hills
of Jurancon. 439.
Route from London, 32 ; from Paris,
40.
Panillac, Chateau Lafitte, 416.
Pavia, 803.
to Valenza, 804.
Pedrera, 1248.
Peebles. 171.
! Peekskill, 1553.
Pegli Station, 742.
Pembroke, 276.
Route from Paris, 40.
Penge, 227.
Peninsular and Oriental Steam Navigation
Routes, 1573.
Penistone, 263.
Penrith, 251.
Penzance, 271.
Perarolo, 1173.
Peri, 750, 1156.
Pe>igueux, 445.
Pennine, 498.
Perpignau, 4-.'3.
Route from Paris, 40.
Perth, 133.
Perugia, 839.
INDEX.
Pesaro, 821.
Pescara, 823.
Peschiera, 777, 1176.
Pesth, 736.
to Pragerhof, 739.
Route from London, 32 ; from Paris,
40.
Peterborough, 233.
Peterhof Palace, 1520.
Petersburg, United States, 1578.
Petra, !4S.
Petworth, 227 1-3.
Peutelstein. Castle of, 1172.
Pfaffers, Baths of, 1118.
Route from Paris, 40.
PnVl'srh, 1151.
Plleix-lnhal, 1151.
Pfunds, 1160.
IM'vu. Forest of, 745, 1113.
Philadelphia, 1ST6.
Philse, 943.
Piacenza, 812.
to Parma, 813.
Picolein, 117!.
Pidhnvro, !>06.
Piermont, 1553.
Pierre a Bot, or Toad-Stone, 1068.
Pierrefonds, 4'.7.
Pietra Santa, 809.
I'ilatka, 1579.
Pilatus, Mont, 1099.
Piraeus, 990.
to Corinih, 995.
Pisa : Hotels, Cathedral, 809 ; the High Altar,
Tombs, Baptistery, Leaning Tower, 810;
Campo Santo, Church of Santa Caierina,
Santa Maria della Spina, University, Bo-
tnnical Garden, Museo di Storia Naturale,
Accademia delle Belle Arti, Palazzo Lan-
franchi, the Residence <>f Lord Byron,
Countess Guiccioli, 811 ; Piazza doi Cava-
lieri, Baths, San Pietrp in Grado, Certosa,
Cascine, 812.
Pisa to Florence. 812, 825.
to Leghorn, 812.
to Rome, 812.
Route from Paris, 40.
Pissouri, 981 4-5.
Pistoia, 818.
to Florence, 818.
Pitzthal, the, 11S4.
Piz Aluu, 1119.
Berniua, 1127.
Chiampatsch, 1126.
Corvatsch, 1123.
Griatschouls, 1126.
Lmgnard, li'-'7.
Mezdi, 11-26.
. Morteratsch, 1127.
Mundaiui, 1132.
Mm-ailir, 1127.
Nair, 1123.
Pisoc, 1126.
Rosetr, 1127.
Rusein, or Todi, 1134.
Sol, 1119.
Plangeros, 1184.
Phuteubei-g, 1170.
Plau, 1179.
Plauterkill Clove, 1555.
Plombieres, 492.
Plurs, 1129.
Plymouth, England, 272.
2
Plymouth, United States, 1561.
Puissy, 387.
Poitiers, 407.
Route from Paris, 40.
Poix, 518.
Polirate Junction, 2-27.
Poltava, 1535.
Pombal. 1-2*9.
Pompeii, 886.
Ponale, Falls of, 777.
Pont St, Martin, 796.
Poutarlier, 478.
Ponte, 1125.
Ponte de Sor, 1279.
Pontevedra, 1205.
Pontresina, 1126.
Pontypool,280.
Poole, 286.
Pooley Bridge, 259.
Pools of Solomon, 968.
Poperinghe, 523.
Population of Cities in United States, 1545.
Poretta, 818.
Porlezza, 1107.
Porphyry Gorges, the, 1153.
Poreanger Fjord, 1387.
Port Glasgow, 114.
Portadown, 95.
Portaletrre, 1279.
Porto Maurizio, 742.
Portpatrick, 175.
Portree, 129.
Pormish, 98.
Portsmouth, 221.
Portugal, 12SO-1292.
i Portugaleii-. 1197.
Portumn.i, M>.
Posehiavo, H2S.
, Posen, 6(18.
! Potenza, 893.
Potsdam, 573.
Poimlikeepsie, 1554.
Po/a/ol. 12UO.
Praa, 748.
Prad, 1128, 1161.
Praesto, 1344.
Prague : Hotels, Altstadt, St. John Nepomuk,
720; Hradschin, Lanrenziberg, Cathedral,
Relics, Chapel of St. John Nepomnk, Caro-
linum, Thein-Kirche. Rathhaus, 7'21 ; John
of Lnxemhourg, Museum, John Huss,
Acropolis, Queen Libussa, Czerniu Palace,
722; Wallenstein's Palace, Places of Resort,
Manufactures, Monuments, 722, 723.
Prague to Vienna, 723.
Route from London, 32; from Paris,
40.
Preromanz, 1179.
Presbnr-r, 734.
Route from Paris, 40.
Prescott, Canada, 156C.
Preston, 251.
Preston pans, 163.
Priuzensbosch, . r >:;4 2-S.
Proao, 1381.
Pi-ocid.-i. Isle of, SOI.
Providence, 1 .';::.
Piutz. 1160, 11^4.
Puerto de Santa Maria, 1242.
Pnertollano, 1277.
Pnrmereiid, 5343-8.
Putbus, 600.
Pylos, 1002.
26
INDEX.
Q
Quebec, 1568.
Oiieeustowi), 60.
Qntu, T8.
Qnintanilla, 1200.
Onintos, 1288.
Qvestgaard, 1321.
Qvidiuge, 1472.
R
Raade, 1434.
Racconigi, 796.
Ragatz, 1118.
Route from Paris, 40.
Raghly, 88.
Ragusa, 901.
Rambouillet, 398.
Ramleh, 957.
Ramlosa, 1472.
Rammis, 1477.
Ramsgate, 2SS.
Route from Paris, 40.
Ramso, 1379.
Ranault, 1183.
R.inden?, 1328.
Randkloveskaaret, 1347.
Randsfjord, 1427.
Ranft, 10S5.
Rapperschwyl, 1117.
Ras en Nakonrah, 930.
Raspenstetn, Rains of, 1151.
Rathdram, 75.
Rathhans, 600.
Rathlin Island, 99.
Ratisbon : Hotels, the Dome or Cathedral of
St. Peter, 630 ; the Rathhans, the Scotch
Benedictine Church, the Walhalla, or Tem-
ple of Fame, 631.
Ratisbon : Route from Paris, 40.
Rattenberg, 1145.
Rans, 1471.
Ravello, 884.
Ravenna, 819.
to Faenza, etc., 820.
Ravensburg, 668.
Rawvl, Summit of the, 1109.
Reading, 242.
Redondela, 1205.
Reggio, 893.
Rehines, 580.
Reichenau,746.
Reichenbach, 724, 1120.
Reichenhall, 730, 1177.
Reien i Slidre, 1401.
Reigate, 227 1-3.
Rein, 1376.
Reine, 1382.
Reinosn, 1200.
Reitan, 1371.
Remngen, 682.
Rena, 1369, 1371, 1426.
Renfrew. 114.
Rennes, 400.
Reno r Island of, 13*7.
Reno, United State?, 1570.
Repraag, 13S7.
Reschen-Scheideck, Pass of, 1160.
Reus, 1265.
Retulingen, 669.
Rentte, 1166.
Reykjavik, 134S.
Rheims, 495.
Route from Paris, 40.
Rheineck, Castle of, 682.
Rlieinfelden, 1079.
Rheiugan, 689.
Rheinstein, Castle of, 689.
Rhine: Route from London to the, 32 ; from
Paris, 40.
Rhiuebeck, 1554.
Rhoda, 926, 937.
Rhodes, 981 4-5.
to Smyrna, 981 4-5.
Rhone Glacier, the, 1094.
Khuabon, 278.
Rhyl, 248.
Ribe, 1338.
Richmond, Surrey, England, 217.
United States, 1578.
Richterswyl,1117.
Ricla,1274.
Riddarholmen, 1445.
Ried, 748, 1160.
Riffelberg,1061.
Riga : Route from Paris, 40.
Rigi. the, 1098.
Riise, 1430.
Rimini, 821.
to Anconn, 821.
toBrindisi,821.
Ringadn Saeter, 1425.
Ringkjobing, 1337.
Ringsaker, 1393.
Rinirsted, 1314.
Rio Frio, 1224.
Riom, 451.
Ripalta, 823.
Ripon, 23S.
Rise, 1396.
Rispebjerget, 134S.
Riva, 988.
Rjnkan, Falls of the, 1408.
Rjnkanfoe, the, 140S.
Roanne, 454.
Rochefort (snr Mer), 411.
Route from Paris, 40.
Rochester, England, 228.
United States, 1564.
Rockland Lake, 1553.
Rocky Mountains, the, 1570.
RC>rllijprget. 1376, 1379.
Rodbye, 1343.
Rodersberg, fniter of, CS3.
Rodesund, 1464.
Rodo, 1381.
Rildsheim, 1422.
Rodsnnd. the, 1379.
Roermond, 534 6-8.
Rogers's Slide, 1557.
Roeskilde,1314.
Rohrerbuchel, 1174.
Riiken, 1405.
Rokkestun Stonp, 1346.
Rolfsohavn, 138C.
Rolle, 1038.
Romainmotier, 1116.
Romanshorn, 1100.
Route from Paris, 40.
Rome : Hotels, Apartments, Caf6s. Cabs, 846 ;
Days for Visiting the Sights, 847 ; Origin
nnd History of the Citj^tS : Walls.Gates,
Bridges, 849 : Fornm Tlomaunm, Temple
of Concord, Temple of Vespasian, Temple
of Saturn, Arch of Septimins Severn*. Col-
umn of Phocas.Vin Sacra. Basilica of Julia,
Recortasis, Temple of Romulus, Arch of
INDEX.
27
Janus Quadrifrons.Cloaca Maxima, Temple
of Vesta, Temple of Ceres and Proserpine.
Temple of Forluna Virilis, House of Kienzi,
Excavations at the Palace of the i
House of Augustus, Circus Maximus, Baths
ofCurucalla, t>&0; Arch of Constaiitiue, Meta
Stidans, Temple of Venus and Koine, H>i silica
of Coustantine, Colosseum, Baths of Titus,
861 ; Temple of Remus, Tomb of Bibulus,
Capitol, Dying Gladiator,etc.,S52; Re.-erveil
Cal)inet, Venus of the Capitol, staiue of
Marcus Aurelius, Tarpeian Rock, Fuium
Trnjannm, Forum of Pallas, Pantheon,
Temple of Neptune, 863: Theatres, Baths
of Diocletian, Tom!) of Hadrian ui"\v the
Castle of St. Angelo), &54; Tomb of the
Scipios, Columbaria, Piazzas, Churches,
St. Peter's, 865 ; Monuments, Ascent of the
Dome, Subterranean Church, 866; Ceremo-
nies in St. Peter's, Lateral) Basilica, Table
on which the Last Simper was Eateti, Scala
Santa, Santa Maria Maggiore, 867 ; Chapel
of the Holy Sacrament, Pauline Chapel,
St. Paul without the Walls, Basilica of
St. Lorenzo, St. AL'IK-S, Basilica of the SS.
Apostoli, S5S; other Churches, 869; Vati-
can, Immense Number of Rooms, Scaln Re-
gia, Sistine Chapel, Michael Angelo's Fres-
coes, Loges of Raphael, Stanze 'of Raphael,
860; Picture - gallery, Raphael's Transfltr-
uration, SCI ; Dorneuichino's Masterpiece,
the Communion of St. Jerome, Museum,
Library, 862; Corridor of Inscriptions, Mu-
seo Chiaramonti, Braccio Nuovo, Statues
and Busts, Fann of Praxiteles, Rotunda,
Court of Belvidere, S63; the Laocoou, Apol-
lo Belvidere, Hall of Animals, Gallery of
Statnes.Hall of the Greek Cross, Hall of the
Biga, Etroscan Museum, Lnteran Maseuni,
Quirinal Palace, Private Palaces, Palazzo
Borghese, 864; Palazzo Colonna, Palazzo
Corsini, Palazzo Doria-Pamfili, Farnese,
Farnesina, Barberini, Spada (Pompey's
Statue), 865; Rospigliosi, Gnido a Murder-
er, Academy of St. I. nke. Manufactory of
Mosaics, Garden* of the Vatican, Bankers,
Manufactures, Villas (Albani. Borghese),
866 : Lndovisi. Pamtili-Doria, Palatina. and
Wolkonsky; Excursions: Vin Appia. Tomb
of Scipio. Arch of Drusus, Church of St. Se-
bastian. Tomb of Cecilia Metella, 867; Al-
bano, Grotta Ferrata, Frascati, Claudian
Aqueducts, Sacred Grove of Bacchus (called
by some the Temple of Egeria), Palestrina,
Colonna, Tivoli, Villa of Hadrian, 868:
Mons Sacer, Veii, Prima Porta, Osti
ni, Studios of Different Artists, 869: cli-
mate, Physicians, Lodgings, 870 ; Carriages,
Servants, Presentations to the Pope, 871.
Rome to Florence, 871.
to Naples, 871, 872.
to Paris, 871.
Route from London, 32 ; from Paris,
40.
Rome, United States, 1564.
Ronda, 1248.
Ron ne, 1346.
Ronneby, 1482.
Roosendaal. .*>27.
Roros, 1370, 1425.
Riirvig, 1380.
Rosanio, 893.
Roscommon, 85.
Roscrea, 79.
Piosenborg Castle, 12!i!>.
Itosenheim Junction, 1145.
Kosenlaui, Baths of, 1092.
Kosersburg Chateau, 1477.
Ros! in, Castle of, 158.
Koss, 272.
Rostrevor, 96.
Hothenthnrm, 1136.
Rothesay, Inle of Bute, 115.
Rottenburg, 67o.
Rotterdam, 528.
to the Hague, via Delft, 530.
Route from London, 32; from Paris,
40.
Rouen, 387.
Route from Paris, 40.
Roumili-Fener, 988.
Roumili-Kisear (Castle of Europe), 988.
Roundstone, 84.
Routes and Passes into Italy, with Time and
Expense, 741-8!>4.
from London to all parts, of the world,
29-33.
from Paris to all parts of the world,
34-42.
through Ireland, 46.
through Scotland, 104.
through England, 183.
through Frauce,Belgium,and Holland,
294.
through Norway and Sweden, 1360,
1361.
Roveredo, 750, 1156, 1175.
Rovigo, 807.
Royan, 412.
Royat, 452.
Rubens, the Painter, 508.
Rudesheim, 691.
Route from Paris, 40.
Rugby, 240.
Rugeii,600.
Rnnstcd, 1319.
Russia, 1486-1543.
Riistchuk,989.
Route from Paris, 40.
Rusleii Pass, the, 1395.
Rydal, Mount, 265.
Ryrtboholm, 145S.
Ryde, Isle of Wight, 222.
Route from Paris, 40.
Rytterknaegten, 1346.
S.
'S Hertogenbosch, 534 5-8.
Snarbruck, 677.
Saardam, or Zaandam, 534 2-8.
Saas, 1066.
Sabadell, 1271.
Sabbath-day Point, 15T.7.
Sachseln, 1086.
Sacnsenbtirg, 1180.
Sachseuklammc. 1 152.
Sacramento, 1571.
Saeby.1080.
Saclbo Lake. 1371.
Snelhnns, 1880.
Safed, !75.
Safsji, strom. 1473.
Siiguenay River, the, 1559,
Sahagun, lail.
Saintee, 411.
San Vito, 1173.
INDEX.
St. Andrew's, 178.
Anthony, Falls of, 1569.
Antou, 1165.
Asaph, 248.
Augustine, United States, 1579.
Barnabas, 981 3-5.
Bernard, 1053.
Route from Paris, 41.
Branchier, 1057.
Brieuc, 400.
Catherine, 1567.
- Cloud, 383.
Cyr, 398.
Denis, 384, 389.
Elie, 981 3-5.
Erik's Grotto, 1475.
fitieune, 453.
Fillaus, 146.
Gall, or St. Gallen, 1121.
Route from Paris, 4t.
Germain, 385.
Gervais, 1046.
Route from Paris, 37.
Gingolph.1044.
Gothard Railway, 1100.
Helen's Well, 1325.
Jean de Luz, 418, :194.
Johann, 1176.
Jtirgensbjerg, 1332.
Laurent dn Pont, 470.
Leonard's, England, 227.
Leonards, Tyro', 1179, 11S4.
Lorenzo, 1179.
Lonis, 1569.
Malo, 396.
Martin, 1046.
Martins, 1177.
Martory, 424.
Maurice, 745.
Route from Paris, 41.
Michel, 477, 744.
Michele, 1155.
Moritz, Baths of, 1123.
Route from London, 32; from Paris,4:.
Niklans, 1060.
Ninians, 176.
Omer, 499.
Oiien, 3S5.
Paul, 1569.
Pet-ay, 468.
Petersburg: Routes to, Hotels, 1491; Islands
and Bridges, St. Isaac's Cathedral, 1492;
Smolnoi Church, Institution des Demoi-
selles Nobles, Cathedral of St. Petersburg,
1493; Cathedral and Fortress of St. Peter
and St. Paul, the Mint, 1494; Preobajenski
Church, Winter Palace, 1495, 1490; Crown
Jewels, 1497; the Hermitage, 149S-1509;
Marble Palace, Michailoff 'Palace, 1509:
Tnurida Palace, Annitchkoff Palace, the
Admiralty, Statues of Peter the Great and
Catharine II., 1510; Arsenals, Museum or
Academy of Sciences, Foundling Hospital,
1511 ; Lying-in Hospital, University, Acade-
my of Arts, 1512 ; Russian Gallery, Private
Picture-galleries, 1513 ; Imperial Public Li-
brary, 1514; Museum of Imperial Carriages,
1515; Moscow Gate, 1516 ; Fur-dealers, The-
atres, Summer Gardens, Gardens of C'ath-
arineschoff, 1517 : Alexander Palace, 1518 ;
Pavlofsk Palace and Arsenal, Poulkova Ob-
servatory, 1519.
St. Petersburg to Cronstadt, 1519.
St. Petersburg to Novgorod the Great, 1521.
to Moscow, 1523.
Route from London, 32 ; from Paris, 41.
St. Pierre, 1056.
Prex, 1039.
Quentin, 497.
Route from London, 32 ; from Paris, 41.
Raphael, 742.
Remo, 742.
Sauveur, 436.
Savin, 433.
Sebastian, 1194.
Route from Paris, 41.
Sergins Monastery, 152L
Uri'ch, 1179.
Vittore, 747.
Sala, 1479.
Salamanca, 1208.
Sale, 1248.
Salisbury, 2S3.
Sallanches, 1046.
Sailing, 1333.
Salon, 1264.
Sal rock, 87.
Salstrom, the, 1381.
Salt Lake Ciiy, 1570.
Snlten Fjord, the, 13S1.
Salud, 1200.
Salurn, 1155.
Salzburg, 729, 1174, 1177.
Route from Paris, 40.
Samaden,1169.
Samaria, 972.
Samoens, 1051.
San Bernardino, 747.
Fernando, 1242.
Francisco, 1571.
Germano, 871.
Ildefonso, 1224.
Marco, 1156.
Moritz, 1169.
Pierdarena,748.
Remo, 808.
Sande Fjord, 1418.
SundfarhiHis, 13S9.
Sandtorv, 1382.
Sandviken, 1405.
Sannesoen, 13SO.
Sauquhar, 167.
Santa Christina, 1170.
Croce, 1173.
Cruz de Mndelti, 1231.
Maria, 1162.1179.
Sautander, 1200.
Santarem, 1279.
Santiago, 1204.
Saragospa, 1272.
Route from Paris, 40.
Saratoga, 1556.
Bardaabu, 1271.
Sardinero, 1200.
Sarirans, 1118,1171.
Sarinena, 1272.
Sarnen, 1086.
Sarntheim, 1153.
Sarpsborg, 1434.
Sarzana, Si 19.
Sattel, 1136.
Sanmur, -("I.
Sant Ste. Marie, 1568.
Savannah, 1578.
Savigliano,796.
SavoDa, 743.
INDEX.
Saxen-les-Bains, 1112.
Saxj.ibing, i;;4-.'.
Saxony, 632.
Sciuifs, 1126.
Scarborough, 238.
Schaffhausen, 1080.
to Constance, 1080.
Schalders, Baths of, 1152.
Schanze, 1155.
Schelleberg Station, 1151.
Schenectady, 1564.
Scherzligen, 1075.
Scheveningen, 532.
Schiedam, 527.
Schiers, 1136.
Schilthorn, the, 1090.
Schinznach, Baths of, 1073.
Schlauders, 1167.
Schlangenbad, 695.
Route from London, 32: from Paris, 40.
Schleswig, 598.
Schliersee, 1175.
Schlitters, 1169.
Schloss Carlctein, 1177.
Schlndens, 1161.
Schluderbach, 1172.
Schmerikou, 1117.
Schuiian, 1182.
Schonberg, 1150,1183.
Schiinbrunn, 717.
Schupfheim. 1107.
Schwa) bach, 695.
Route from London, 32; from P;iri-s
41.
Schwanden, 1131.
Schwarenbach. 1074.
Schwarzer Thurm, or Black Tower, 107S.
Schwaz, 1145.
Schweizerhof, the, 1079.
Schwelm, 594.
Schwerin, 599.
Schwyz,1097.
Scilla, 893.
Scionzier, 1046.
Scotland, 101-182.
Seaconrt, 54.
Seaford, 227 1-3.
Sebaste, 972.
Sedan, 496.
See, 1184.
Seelisberg, 1102.
Seewen. 1097.
Segni, 869.
Segovia, 1225.
Sehail, 942.
Seistrup, 1332.
Selimis, Ruins of, 900.
Selsovig, 13-q.
Semlin, 737.
Sempach. 1<>77.
Sennwald, 1125.
Sens, 457. 741.
Sepey, 1110.
Serravalle, 1173.
Servia, 737.
Sestri a Ponente, 743.
Sevastopol, 1537.
to Chersonesus, 1538.
to Baktchissarai, 1539.
Sevclen, 1171.
Seville, 1232.
to Cadiz, 1240.
Sevres, 384.
Shanghai: Route from Paris, 41.
Sheffield, 234.
Sbekh Abaddeh, 937.
Shetland Islands, 1348.
Shiloh, or Sellnn, 972.
Shrewsbury, 245.
Sicily, 895-905.
Sidon, t7'.t.
Sieben Brunnen, the, 1109.
Siena, 843.
Sierra Nevada, 1250.
Sierre, 745, 1064.
Sigmnndsburg, Ruins of, 1166.
Sigmundskron, Castle of, 1153, 1168.
Signildsberg, 1477.
Siguenza, 1274.
SiQan, 1479.
Silkeborg, 1339.
Sils Maria, 1129.
Silverplana, 1123.
Silz, 748, 1159.
Sitnpheropol, 1541.
to Theodosia and Kertch, 1541
Simplon, the, 746, 1065.
Sinai to 1 Akaba, 946.
Sing Sing, 1553.
Singsaas, 1372.
Sinigaglia, 822.
Sion, 1110, ma.
Sioot, or Assiimt, 937.
Siwah, 949.
Sixt, the, 1051.
Sjiibunclen,1426.
SjSrring, 1331.
I Sjiitorp, 1463.
I Skagen, 1335.
Hkanderborg, 1327, 1333.
to Herning, 1338.
Skarreklit Rock, 1333.
Skarridsfi Lake, 1340.
i Skarsfjelde, 1371.
Skeje i Hjnerdal, 1409.
Skeleton Tours, xxiv-xxviii ; throngli Scot*
land, 101-105.
Skenninge, 1475.
Skibotten, 1383.
Skieu, 1426.
Skipton, 263.
Skive, 1337.
Skjaeggestad i Ringebo, 1394.
Skjaerpingaard, 1332.
Skjern Castle, 1329.
Skjervo, 1384.
Skjoldeu, 1416.
Skjorta, the, 1430.
Skodsborg, 1319.
Skofde, 1460.
Skogdalsboen, 1425.
Skogstad, 1401.
Skr.ien, 1400.
Skokloster, Castle of, 1477.
Sknt.-Ieven, 1403.
Skye, Isle of, 148.
Slagelse, 1314.
Slathdale, 181.
Sleepy Hollow, 1553.
Sligo, 88.
Slnppen, 1372.
Smedjebacken, 1470.
Smyrna, 981 4-5.
t Constantinople, 983.
Snaasen Vand, the, 1389.
Snarnra, 1404.
30
INDEX.
Sneebattan Mountain, the, 1395.
Sneern, 82.
Snerle, 1422.
Snowdon, Mount, 27&
Soberg, 1372.
Soboden, 1426.
Siiborg, 1322.
SocueTlaraos, 1268.
Siklerhamn, 14SO.
Siiderkopiug, 1466.
Sodertelje, 1444, 1466.
Soestdyk, 634 4-S.
.Sogne Fjord, the, 1414.
Sognedal, 1415.
'Sognefest, 1415.
Soissons, 494.
S6kkeu,1334.
Sol berg Fjord, the, 13S3.
Solden, 1182.
Soleure, or Solothnrn, IOCS.
Solferino, 750, 1157.
Soil, 1176.
Solstein, the, 1158.
Solvorn, 1416.
Somnaes, 1380.
Sondrio, 748, 1164.
Sonnebeg, 625.
Sonora, 1572.
Soran, 629.
Sorgenfri, 1321.
Soro, 1314.
Sorrento, 882.
Sornm, 1422, 1428.
Siisdala, 1439.
Soto de Roma, 1257.
Southampton, 2S6.
Route from Paris, 41.
Soveien, 1383.
Spa, 516 ; the Fountains, Excursions, Casino,
Races, Lea Qnatre Fils Aymon, 517.
Route from London, 32; from Paris, 41.
Spain, 1185-1279.
Spaudan, 595.
Sparta, 1000.
to Pylos, 1001.
Speer, the, 1118.
Spell. >, 841.
Spezia, 809.
Route from Paris, 41.
Spiez, 1075.
Spital, 1181.
Spiterstuhl, the, 1424.
Splugen, 746.
Spoleto, 840.
Spondining, 1161.
Springfield, 1563.
Staatsbnrg, 1554.
Stachelberg, Baths of, 1134.
Stiifa, 1117.
Staffa, 120.
Stafflach, 1151.
Stafford, 240.
Stai, 1369.
Staigne Fort, 82.
Staldeu, 1066.
Stalheim i Vos,1411.
Stamford, United States, 1564,
Stams, 1158.
Stangenaes, 1379.
Stargard, 604.
Statzerhorn, the, 1122.
Stavanger, 1377, 1419.
Stee, 1401.
Steensballe, 1327.
Stehag, 1439.
Steiu, 1160.
Stein Pass, 1176.
Steinach, 749, 1163.
Steiubruckeu, 750.
Steiudalsfos, the, 1420.
Steinheim, 593.
Stelvio, the, 748, 1163.
Pass, 1161.
Road over the, 74&
Stenalt, 1329.
Sleuay, 496.
Stendal, 577.
Stenia, 988.
Stenkjaer, 1389.
Stennis, 1348.
Steuvigen, 1369.
Sterziug, 749, 1151.
Sterzinger Moss, 1151.
Stettin, 603.
to Stralsund. 605.
to Breslan, 609.
Stevnsherred, the, 1341, 1343.
Stirling, 138.
Stockeuboyerthal, 11SO.
Stockholm : Hotels, Riddarholmen, Hel^e-
andsholmeu, Carriages, 1445, 1446; K.iv:u
Palace, 1447; Royal Library, National Mu-
seum, Castles, etc., 1448-1457; Excnrsi.ins
from, 1458.
Stockholm to Copenhagen, 1481.
from Gothenburg, 1458.
to St. Petersburg, 1483.
Route from Pans, 41.
Stockport, 240.
Stockton, United States, K.71.
Stoke Pogi?, 242.
Stoksund, 1379.
Stonehenge, 2S4.
Stony Clove, 1555.
Stony Point, 1553.
Storebro, 1474.
Storeheddinge, 1344.
Storen, 1372, 1396.
Storhattau, the, 1397.
Storklevstad i Qvams, 1394.
Stor-Sjo Lake, 1369.
Stornoway, 149.
Storstennaes, 1383.
Storsveeu, 1428.
Storvik, 1479.
Storvola Fjeld, 1370.
Stoss, the, 1102.
Stovringgnard, 1329.
Strabaue, 89.
Stralsund, 600, 1437.
Strand, 1408.
Strangniis, 1483.
Stranraer, 175.
Strasbnrg, 670.
to Basle, 670, 679.
to Cologne, 672, 674.
Route from Paris, 41.
Strass, 1169.
Strassberg, Castle of, 1151.
Stratford-on-Avon, 244.
Route from Paris, 41.
Strath ire, 144.
Strathpeffer, 129.
Straubing, 727.
Strelua Palace, 1521.
Stresa, 746, 791, 1065, 1106.
INDEX.
31
Strib, 1313.
Stromuaes, 13S4.
Stromness, 1343.
Stromo, 1381.
Stromsholm, 1477.
Si roms.K; Island, 1348.
Struer, 1337.
Stnbay, Valley of, 1160, 1183.
Stnbbenkammer, 6U1.
Stuben, 1106.
Stuedal, 1371.
Stueflaaten, 1397.
Stuen i Opdal, 1396.
Sluhlfeldeu, 1171.
Stuttgart, 665.
to Heidelberg, 670.
to SchaffhaiiBen, 669.
Route from London, 32 ; from Paris,
41.
Sueca, 1263.
Suez, 945.
Route from London, 33 ; from Paris?,
41.
Sulden, 1162.
Sulitjema, the, 1381.
Siilmona, 875.
Sulstnen, 1392.
Sundsvall, 1480.
Sundvolden, 1173.
Sunnyside, 1553.
Surendal Valley, the, 1431.
Sin-see, 1077.
Susa, 745.
Susten,1113.
Svanike, 1347.
Sviirholt, 1387.
Svendborg, 1317, 1345.
Svinklov Cliff, 1332.
Swansea, 276.
Sweden, 1356-1360, 1432-1485.
Switzerland: Routes, Passports, etc., 1017-
1140.
Syd-Krogo, 1379.
Sydney, Routes to, 1574.
Symi, 981 4-5.
Syracuse, Italy, 901.
to Malta, 906.
Syracuse, United States, 1564.
Syria and Palestine, 953-982.
T.
Taaeinge, Island of, 1317.
Tabor, 725.
Taesens, 1160.
Taffiilla, 1276.
Tai Cadore, 1173.
Tain, Scotland, 130.
. Hill of, 467.
Talvik, 1384.
Tamworth, 248.
Tana Elve, the, 1387.
Tancarville, 390.
Tangier, 1245, 1248.
Tan lay, 458, 741.
Tantura, 980.
Taormina, 904.
Tappan, 1553.
Tarancon, 1229.
Taranto, 894.
Tarare, 454.
Tarascon, 469, 742,
Tarasp-Bad, 1128.
Tarbert, 65.
Tarbes, 428.
Routes from, 429.
Tarbet, 134.
Tarm, 1337.
Tarragona, 1264.
Tarrasa, 1271.
Tarrytown, 1553.
Tannton, 269.
Tavanasa, 1132.
Taxenbach, 1171.
Taynuilt, 144.
Tegernsee, 1174.
Teigen, 1371.
Teignmouth, 270.
Tel Basta, 950.
Tel el Amarna, 937.
Telfs, 1158.
Tellemarken Route, the, 1404.
Tell's Chapel, 1102.
Telnaes, 1370, 1426.
Temple of Minerva, 997.
Templemore, 67.
Tenby, 276.
Tepe Kermen, 1540.
Tei-lan, 1168.
Terni, 841.
Teroen, 1421.
Terraciua, 872.
Terranova, 901.
Tete Noire, 1054.
Teufelstein, and Devil's Bridge, 1103.
Texel, Island of, 534 3-8.
Tharand, 646.
Thebes, Greece, 1000.
Thebes, Egypt, 939.
Theodosia, 1541.
Thernpia, 988.
Thetford, 232.
Thing Vnlla, 1349.
Thionville, 493.
Thirhnere, 257.
Thisted, 1331.
Thomar, 1289.
Thomery Station, 74.
Thonon, 1045.
to Geneva, 1045.
to Sixt, 1045.
Thorn, 600.
Thorshavn Island, 1348.
Thousand Isles, the, 1566.
Threnen, 1380.
Thun, 1075.
Route from Paris, 41.
Thunsee, Lake of, 1177.
Thiirles, 57.
Thurn Defile, 1174.
Thurso, 131.
Thusis, 746.
Tiberias, 974.
Tideville, 1325.
Tiflis, 1643.
Tinosi, 1324.
Tintern Abbey, 274.
Tipperary, 65.
Tirano, 748, 805, 1163.
Tiriolo, 892.
Tirlemont, 522.
Titlis, the, 1095.
Tiverton, 270.
Tivoli, 868.
Tjoelsund, 1388.
Tjiito, 1380.
Tobermory, 14&
32
INDEX.
.Tocoi, United States, 1579.
ToftemtfWh, 1395.
Tolhacherfeld, 1180.
Toledo, 1225.
Route from Paris, 41.
Tolgeu, 1370.
Tomlevolden, 1400.
Tonnerre, 457, 741.
Touset, 1369, 1370.
Toplitz, 639.
Route from Paris, 41.
Tiireboda, 1461, 1464.
Torgen, Island of, 13SO.
Torghattan, the, 1380.
Toronto, 1566.
Torquay, 271.
Torrejou de Ardos, 1276.
Torrelavega, 1200.
Torreverre Rende, 1335.
Tortanga, Gorge of, 1264.
Tortosa, 1264.
Tosa Falls, 1104.
Toul, 491.
Toulon, 473.
Route from Paris, 41.
Toulouse, 420.
Tours, 404.
Tours from London, 33 ; from Paris, 41.
Skeleton, xxiv-xxvii.
Tonrtemagne, 745.
Traben, 686.
Trafoi, 1162.
Tralee, 62.
Tramagal, 1279.
Trani, 824.
Trano, 1382.
Trapani, 900.
Tratzberg, Castle of, 1145.
Treib, 1102.
Trellebors, 1470.
Trenkwald, 1184.
Trent, Italy, 749, 1155.
-Tyrol, 1155.
Trenton Falls, 1557, 1564.
Tresenda, 1164.
Treves, 678.
Route from Paris, 41.
Triberg, 672.
Trientj 1055.
Trieste, 731.
Route from London, 33, from Paris, 41.
Trifthorn, the, 1059.
Tripoli, 981.
Tripolitza, 1000.
Trisaet, 1426.
Trogeu, 1124.
Troitzkoi Monastery, 1532.
Trollhatta, Falls of, 1402.
Tromso, 1379, 1383.
Tromsosund, the, 1383.
Trondhjem, 1372-1376, 1392.
Trons, 1132.
Troon, 127.
Trostberg, Castle of, 1153.
Troutbeck, 256.
Trouville, 393.
Troy, United States, 1556.
Troyes, 479.
Truckee, 1571.
Trysil District, 1369.
Tsarkotf Selo, Palace of, 1518.
Tnnm, 78.
Tubingen, 669.
I Tudela, 1276.
Tuf, 1404.
Tumba, 1444.
Tuubridge Wells, 226.
Tune i Vang, 1401.
Turbia, 742.
Turin : Hotels, Churches, Manufactures, otc-
792-796.
to Aosta, 796.
to Genoa. 796.
to Nice, 796, 797.
Route from London, 33; from Paris.
41.
Turkey and Greece, 983-1002.
Tnrrif, 135.
Tvindehoug, 1423.
Tvinden i Yos, 1411.
Tyndrum, 144.
Tyre, 979.
Tyrol, 1141-1184.
Castle of, 1167.
Tyskestranden, 1405.
Tyven Mountain, the, 1385.
U.
Ubeda, 1231.
Uckneld, 227 1-3.
Ucles, 1229.
Uddevalla, 1474.
Uetliberg, 10S4.
Uldefos Falls, 1429.
Ulefos, 142C.
Ullerslev, 1314.
Ulm, 664.
to Friedrichshafen,668.
to Schaffhausen, 669.
to Stuttgart, G64.
Route from Paris, 41.
Ulricehamn, 1467.
Ulsaker, 1404.
Ulstrup, 132S.
Ulswater, Lake, 259.
Ulverston, 259.
Ulvik,1421.
Umhausen, 1182.
United States, 1544-1557, 1559-1565, 1567-157&
Unspuuuen, Castle of, 1088.
Unsre Fran, 1183.
Unterau, 1152.
Unterschachen, 1134.
Upsala, 1477.
Uri, Lake of, 1102.
Utah, 1570.
Utica. 1564.
Utrecht, 534 5-8.
Route from Paris, 41.
Utrera, 1240.
Uznach, 1117.
V.
Vadheim, 1415.
Vadolanno, 1231.
Vadsii, 1379, 1385, 1388.
Vaerdalsoren, 13S9.
Vaerii, 13S2.
Vahrn, Baths of, 1152.
Val Paraiso, 1232.
Val Topa, 1114.
Valdepenas, 1231.
Valders Route, the, 1399.
Valdersund, 1379.
Valence, 468, 742.
Valencia, 1260.
INDEX.
Valencia . Route from Paris, 41.
Valenciennes, 498.
Valenza, 797.
Valctta, 910.
Valladolia, 1207.
Route from Paris, 41,
Valle, 1417.
Vallee du Lys, 426.
Vallejo, United States, 1571.
Valli>, 1343.
Vallorbe, 1116.
Valray, 493.
Valognes, 397.
Valpellina, 1057.
Valsain, 1-224.
Vamdrup, 1313.
Van nes, 406.
Vanzone, 1066,
Varde, 1337.
Vardii, 1387.
Varello, 791.
Varese, 787.
Varna, 73S.
Route from Paris, 41.
Vasto, 823.
Vedback, 1319.
Vegaellina, 120J.
Veii, 869.
Veile, 1326.
Veirhf.i Hill, 1340.
Velaen, 534 2-8.
Vemb, 1337.
Vbmmetofte, 1344,
Venus, 1173.
Vendas Novas, 12SS.
Venetia, or Venice, 757.
Venice: Hotels, Situation, Grand Canal,
Gondolas, Manufactures, Government,
Churches, etc., 757-769, 1169, 1173.
Venice to Bologna, 769.
to Brindisi, 769.
to London, 769.
to Milan, 769, 770,
. to Padua, 77.
to Paris, 769.
to Trieste, 769,
to Turin, 769.
to Verona, 769.
Koute from London, 33 ; from Paris,
41.
Venningbond Bay, 1317.
Vent, 1183.
Venta de Qnesada, 1231,
Ventimiglia, 742. 80S.
Ventnor, 224,
Verblungnaes, 1397.
Vercelli, 792, 797.
Verdrieteges' Hook, 1553,
Verdun, 493.
Vergara, 1196.
Vermedalsfos Palls, 1397.
Vernayaz, 1112.
Verona: Hotels, Fortifications, etc., 773-778,
1157, 116S.
to Innsprnck. 7^7.
to Milan, 777.
to Modena, 805.
to Munich, 777.
to Venice, 777.
Rome from Paris, 41.
Verplanck's Point, 1553.
Verres, 796.
Versailles, 3TT.
Verviers, 517.
Vesonl, 479.
Vesteraalen Islands, the, 1382.
Vesteras, 1483.
Ve.-tcT-kjernige, 1345.
Vestervig, 1331.
Vestfossen, 1406.
Vesuvius, 884.
Vettisfoe Falls, 1406.
Vevay, 1041.
Route from Paris, 42.
Viborg, 1336.
Vicenza, 772.
Route from Paris, 42.
Vich, 1270.
Vichy: Hotels, 449; Springs, Diseases, New
Casino, 450; Park, Physician*. Excursion*.
451.
Vichy to Switzerland, 451.
Route from London, 33; from Paris,
42.
Vienna: Hotels, 708; History, Promenades,
Palaces, People, Public Buildings, Ca-
thedral of St. Stephen, 709; Churches,
Chnrch of the Angnstines, Canova's Monu-
ment of the Archduchess Christine, Church
of th Capuchins, Coffin of Napoleon II.,
Carmelite Church, Imperial Palace, 710;
Cabinet of Antiquities, Cabinet of Minerals,
Museum of Natural History, Schatzkam-
mer or Imperial Jewel-office, Coach-house,
Riding-school, Volksgarten, Hofgarten, 711;
Picture - gallery, 712-714 ; Ambras Cojlec-
tion, Armor, 714 ; Esterhazy Gallery, Prince
Lichtenstein's Palace, Counts Czernin,
Schiinbrunn, Harrach, and Lemberg's Col-
lections of Pictures, Imperial Arsenal. Uni-
versity, General Hospital, Lying-in Hospi-
tal, 715 ; Theatres, 716 ; Meerschaums, Man-
ufactures, Carriages, Baggage, Passports,
Cafes, Vatet de Place, Opera-glasses, Lace,
and Bohemian Glass, 716, 717.
Vienna to Baden Warm Springs, 718.
to Dresden, 719, 724.
to Kalenberg, 718.
to Klosterneuburg, 713.
to Laxenburg, 718.
to Leopoldsburg, 718.
to Modling, 718.
to Munich, 726.
to Pesth, 717, 739.
. to Prague, 725.
to Schonbrunu, 717.
to Trieste, 730, 750.
to Trieste, via Semmering Railway,
to Venice direct, 730, 738.
Route from London, 35 ; from Paris,
42.
Vienne, 467, 741.
Viesch, 1114.
Vigels Fjeld. 1371.
Vigevano, 797.
Vii;o, 1205.
Vik, 1415, 1421.
Viken, the, 1434.
Viker Church, the, 1427.
Vikersnud, 1403.
Vikholmen, 13S1.
Viko, 1404.
Vilches, 1231.
Villa Real, 1264.
Villach, 1152, 1188.
750.
34
Vlllach to Brixen, 560.
Villafranca, 1203, 1266, 1279.
Villalpraudo, 1208.
Villanueva de la Serena, 1278.
Villard, 1111.
Villaviciosa, 1202.
Villeneure, 745, 1044.
Villeperdne, 407.
Villers-sur-Mer, 393.
Villingen, 672.
Vilpian,1168.
Vilvorde, 512.
Vincennes, 384.
Vineroz, 1264.
Vingaker, 1470.
Vingei Vos, 1411.
Virginia City, 1570.
Vispach, 745 r r059 r 1113L.
Vissoye, 1059.
Vittofia, 1196.
Vitznan, 1101.
Vivalvaro, 1270.
Vlaardingen, f>27.
Voergaard Manor, 1330S.
Voersaa River, 1330.
Vogelenzang r 533.
Voiron, 470.
Volderau, 1183.
Volterra, 843.
Voltri, 743v
Voorn, Castle- of, 527.
Vordingborg, 1341.
Voringsfo8,1421.
Vossevangen, 1411, 1414.
Vostizza, 998.
Vongy, 1046.
VuflJens, Chateau of, 103_
W.
Wadenswyl, 1T17, 1134.
Wadi Haifa, 944.
Wadstena r 14*4, 1463.
Waidbruck, 1179.
Waidring, It76.
Waldhauser, 1131.
Waldshnt, 1079.
Wales, 273-881.
the TOOT of, 273V
Walla, 1444.
Wallenstadt, 1118.
Walschenofen, 1163.
Warberg, 1473.
Warburg, 619.
Wareham, 28.
Warmbrunn, 724.
Warmoml, 533.
Warrenpoint, 96.
Warsaw, 612.
Route from London, 3K.
Wartofta, 1467.
Warwick, 244.
Wasen, 1103.
Washington, 1576.
Waterford, 66.
Waterloo, 511.
Wauwyl, 1077.
Weegis 1101.
Weiherbnrg, 1149.
Weimar, 622.
to Erfurt, 622.
Weissnch, Valley of, 1178.
Weissbad, 1124.
Weissenburg, 676.
WeisseufeU, 621.
INDEX.
Weissenstein, the, 1068.
Weispenthurm, 683.
Welfeustein, Castle of, 1151.
Wells, 233.
Welraick, 687.
Wels, 727.
Wenern, Lake, 1463.
Wenersborg, 1463.
Wernamo, 1473.
Wesel, 5S1.
We.en, 756.
West Point, 1554.
West Troy, United States, 1556.
\Vestervik, 1481.
VVeston-super-Mare, 269.
\Vestport, S5.
Wetterhorn, the, 1091.
Wetteru, Lake, 14t>4.
Wexford, 73.
Weiio, 1472.
Weymouth, 287.
White MDUiitains, 1559.
Whitehiiven, 260.
Wiborg, 14S4.
Wick, 130.
Wicklow, 74.
Wiesbaden, 93; Ronte from London, 33.
Wiesberg, Castle of, 1166.
Wiesen, 1137.
Wi^an.250.
Wight, the Isle of: Tours in, etc., 222-22*.
Wildbad, 703.
Route from London, 33.
Wildlmd-Gastein, 1180.
Wildegg Castle, 1078.
Wildhans, 1133.
Wildstruhel, the, 1109.
Wilhelmshafen, 603.
Willerusoord, 5343-8.
Wiltan,1150.
Wimbonie, 2S6.
Winchester, 285.
Wiudermere, 253.
Windsor, England, 217 ; Eton College, 248.
Canada, 1567.
Winkel, 690.
Winklern,1180.
Wiiiterthur, 1082.
Wisby, 14S1.
Wishina: Gate, the, 255.
Wislanda. 1440.
Wittenberg, 616.
Wolverhainptou, 245.
Woodlawn, 83.
Worcester, England, 265.
United States, 1563.
Wore!, 1145.
Workington, 261.
Worms, 677.
Worsaaes Oe, 1343.
Worth, 675.
Worthing, 221.
Wrexham, 277.
Wurremberg, 664.
VVurzburg. 667
to Furth, 643.
Yale College, 1564.
Yalta, 1541.
Yarmouth, 231.
INDEX.
Yeni Keni, 988.
Tester House, 164.
York, 234 ; Marston Moor, Lowton, 235.
to London, via Bedford, Derby, Shef-
field, etc., 234.
Yongbal, 66.
Yosemite Valley, the, 1572.
Ypres, 522.
Ystad, 1470.
Yverdon, 1067.
Z.
Zaleh, 979.
Zamora, 1209.
Zebdany, 977.
Zell, 1169.
Zerknitz, Lake of, 731.
Zerraatt, 1053, 101.
Zeveuaar, 534 7-8.
Zillerthal, 1151.
Zirl, 1158.
Zoflngen, 1077.
Zng, 1068.
Ziirpich, 679.
Zunch : Hotel?, Cathedral, etc., 1083, 1084.
Route from London, 33 ; from Paris. 42.
Zussow, 605.
Zutphen, 534 6-8.
Zuz, 1128.
Zweibriicken, 677.
Zweieimmen, 1109.
Zwickau, C47.
Zwieselstein, 1182.
Zwolle, 534 4-.
L, 1ST D O 3ST.
Messrs.
Have the honor to solicit a visit from the Beau Monde, to inspect a variety of
ELEGANT SILK COSTUMES,
MANTLES,
ARTISTIC MILLINERY, HATS,
And every variety in Dress, specially selected in Paris from the best Artistes, and
representing the correct
FASHIONS OF THE SEASON.
The following Extract from an American Paper is a pleasing testimony to the
system of Business adopted at this House :
" We visited during our sojourn in London last
year, the Warehouse of Messrs. Jay, the most noted
Establishment of the kind in the world. In looking
through its numerous Departments, we were able to
appreciate the true cause of the distinguished success
which has attended the Establishment for many years.
"Messrs. Jay receive large supplies of Costumes
and Millinery direct from the best Houses in Paris,
and they are sold at much more moderate prices than
Ladies can procure them on the Continent. We take
pleasure in directing the attention of our fair readers
to this time-honored establishment, where we are sure
they will be honestly and loyally dealt with?
THE LONDON GENERAL MOURNING WAREHOUSE,
243, 245, 247, 249, 251, & 253 Repnt Street, .
LONDON.
THE MIDLAND GRAND HOTEL,
ST. PANCRAS STATION.
The Largest and Finest Hotel in Die Kingdom.
An exceptionally Healthy and most desirable Residence
for Visitors to London.
BEDROOMS FROM 2s. 6d. PER DAY, and all other Charges
Equally Moderate.
R. ETZENSBERGER, Manager.
Convenient Omnibus Service between the Hotel, the West End, Trafalgar
Square, Charing Cross, and the Strand ; Pare 3d.
Intending visitors may also order the Company's one-horse omnibuses to meet
them on arrival at any London Terminus, saving much trouble, delay, and expense.
NOTICE. -EXCELLENT COFFEE.
ETZENSBERGER'S PATENT COFFEE AND TEA FILTERS, for bars, hotels, steamships,
&c., are now used on all the leading steamship lines and in first-class hotels. For particulars,
apply to R. ETZENSBERGEK & CO.,
13 St. Andrew's Street, Holborn Cirrus. LONDON, R. ('.. and at
THE MIDLAND GRAND HOTEL., LONDON.
2
LONDON.
BEXNETT
&C9
Sackville Street
LINCOLN, BE1ETU CO.
To the Royal Family. *
GENTLEMEN'S HATS
IN EVERY VARIETY.
LADIES' VELVET NAPPED RIDING AND FELT HATS.
I Sackville St. and 40 Piccadilly, London, W.
CHARLES FRODSHAM & CO.,
84 Strand, LONDON,
By appointment to Her Majesty,
WATCH, CLOCK,
A1TD \
CHRONOMETER MAKERS
To the Queen, and their Royal Highnesses
the Prince and Princess of Wales.
Gold Medal at the Parit exhibition of 1866.
Gold Medal, First Class, Naples, 1871.
Gold Medal of the First Order, from the
Emperor of Russia, for services rendered to
the Great Russian Survey.
WATCHES, CHRONOM-
ETERS, and CLOCKS, of
every description, from the sim-
plest and least expensive to the
most complicated.
ONLY PLACE OF BUSINESS,
84 STEAND, LONDON,
The public are respectfully cautioned against numerous forgeries of our name and trade marks.
3
MANUFACTURERS.
Glass Dinner Services,
Glass Dessert Services,
Glass Table Decorations,
Glass Flower Vases,
Glass Table Lamps,
Glass Lustres & Wall Lights,
Glass and Metal Chandeliers,
China Dessert Services,
China Dinner Services,
China Breakfast Services,
China Tea Services,
China Vases,
China and Parian Groups,
China Ornaments,
Sole Agents for the Venice & Murano Glass Co.
Mess, Export, and Furnishing Orders promptly ex-
ecuted. Estimates Free,
"The visitor to London who leaves without seeing
o
the show-rooms of Messrs. Osier has missed one of the
sights of the metropolis." Vide " Land and Water."
BIRMINGHAM : MANUFACTORY AND SHOW-ROOMS, BROAD ST,
LONDON: Show-Rooms, 100 (Mord Street, W,
4
THiK
Hyde Park Corner, LONDON.
This magnificent Hotel, occupying one of the most cheerful, healthy, nd pleasant liUs in London overlooking
Hyde Park, Rotten Row, and the Serpentine is conducted at such a reduced tariff us to render it the cheapest first-claw
Hotel in London. It comprises numerous Suite* of Apartments, a Spacious and Elegant Coffee-Room, a Drawing-Room
overlooking the Park, with Reading-Room adjoining, a Srnoking-Room, &c. The Wine* and Cuisine are of the bait.
Tariffs will be forwarded on application to the Manager. There it an Ascending-Room to every floor.
LONDON.
ST. JAMES'S HOTEL,
Corner of Berkeley Street, Piccadilly,
This First-Class Hotel, which commands a view of the Green Park
and Buckingham Palace, has now the advantage of a Patent
Safety Lift communicating with every floor.
The clientele of the Hotel is of the best class, and the Apartments for Families
are exceptionally convenient and good. The Cuisine is of the best, and includes
the HOUSE DINNERS, from seven o'clock P.M., at 7s. 6d. and lOs. 6d. per
head, served at separate tables. Other Dinners and Luncheons supplied at a
moment's notice a la carte, and in the coffee-room or private rooms, as may be pre-
ferred. The Wines are furnished by the well known houses of CHRISTOPHER & Co.
and TAXQUKRAY & Co., which will be a sufficient guarantee that they are of the
best possible vintages.
WEDDING BREAKFASTS PROVIDED.
Ittanag;er, 'I r. . r \ iii'K.
Chef de < iiUiiic. IV. C. HIGOZZI (formerly Chef under FRANC ATKI.I.H.
3
LOISTDOIST.
J. ALLISON & CO.,
SILK MERCERS,
LINEN DRAPERS, &c,
It TTnnoo OQQ O^fl onfl 0^0 PonroTit Qtroot
I flUUM, Zoo, Z4U, dllli Z4Z ntlpill oQoul,
And Carriage Entrance, 26 and 27 Argyll Street,
LONDON, W.
DEPARTMENTS.
Silks. Dress Trimmings. Gloves.
Velvets. Ball and Evening Hosiery.
Ribbons. Dresses. Shawls.
Lace. Dress-Making. Parasols.
Cloaks. Costumes. Haberdashery.
Furs. Dress Materials. Millinery.
Household Linen.
| FAMILY MOURNING IN ALL ITS BBAJ55
*** Close at Two o'clock on Saturdays all the year round.
: SIR S-A-MTJKL SCOTT <fe
6
LONDON.
BRISTOL HOTEL.
This large Family Hotel, situated between Bond Street and Regent Street,
near Piccadilly, is newly established, and furnished in the Continental style, with
every possible comfort and modern improvement.
First -class Restaurant, with Breakfasts and Dinners d la Parisienne. Lift,
Telephone, &c.
Proprietor, Mr. DIETTE, from Hotel Scribe, Paris.
LIMERICK. ~~
This neat Hotel has been prepared with great care and at considerable expense, for the ac-
commodation of ladies and gentlemen visiting Limerick.
The Commercial- Room (and Waiting- Room attached), the Indies' Coffee -Room, and the
Gentlemen's Codec-Room will stand comparison with any of the kind in Ireland.
The GLESTWORTH claims the support of the general public for the superiority of its accom-
modation in every Department, including Sitting -Rooms, Bed -Rooms, Bath -Rooms (Hot and
Cold Water), &c., &c.
The Wines and Liquors have been selected with the greatest care.
The GLENTWORTH is the nearest Hotel in the City to the Railway Station, Banks, Steamboat
Offices, Telegraph and Post Office, and to all Public Places of Amusement.
ff Omnibus attends the arrival of all Trains and Steamers. Porter attends the Night Mails.
P. KEN\ A, Proprietor, 14, 15, and 16 (i lent worth Street, Limerick.
TflRBET HOTEL, LOCHLOMOND.
(Opposite Ben-Lomond),
IS THE
LARGEST HOTEL ON THE LAKE,
And commands the best view of Ben-Lomond.
A. H. MAOPHEBSON, Proprietor.
LONDON. ASPREY & SONS.
ENGLISH DRESSING CASES, TRAVELLING BAGS,
Writing Cases, Pocket-Books. Leather Goods, Fancy Novelties, and
ARTICLES de VERTU and de LUXE, Stationery, &c.
166 Bond St. and 22 Albemarle St.
EXCHANGE OFFICE. -HANDS & CO.
16 Strand, Charing Cross Railway Station Gateway,
LONDON, W. C.
Foreign Bank-note.*, Gold, Obligations, and Drafts cashed on presentation.
7
163 Regent Street,
LONDON.
AT THIS ESTABLISHMENT WILL BE FOUND AN IMMENSE
AND SUPERB VARIETY OF
Seal-skin Sacques, Dolmans, and
JYewmarket Coats,
WHICH FOR PERFECTION OF SHAPE AND QUALITY
CANNOT BE SURPASSED.
163 Regent Street, London.
TWO DOORS FROM NEW BURLINGTON STREET.
HARPER'S PERIODICALS.
UflVI
Per Year :
HARPER'S MAGAZINE $4 00
HARPER'S WEEKLY 4 00
HARPER'S BAZAR 400
HARPER'S YOUNG PEOPLE 2 00
HARPER'S FRANKLIN SQUARE LIBRARY, One
Number each week for One Year 10 00
Postage Free to all Subscribers in the United States or Canada.
HARPER'S FRANKLIN SQUARE LIBRARY : a weekly publication,
containing works of Travel, Biography, History, Fiction, and Poetry, at
prices ranging from 10 to 25 cents per number. Full list of Harper's
Franklin Square Library will be furnished gratuitously on application to
HARPER & BROTHERS.
Remittances should be made by Post-Office Money Order or Draft, to
avoid risk of loss. Address
HARPER & BROTHERS, Franklin Square, N. Y.
HARPER'S CATALOGUE, of between three and four thousand vol-
umes, mailed on receipt of Ten Cents in Postage Stamps.
8
The Great Western Railway Co,,
OF ENGLAND,
Issue Tickets between Liverpool, Birkenhead, Holyhead, &c., via Chetter, to
London and the South of England by three routes, viz. :
1. THE KOYAL (OXFORD) ROUTE through Chester and the Valley of
the Dee, the Vale of Llangollen, Shrewsbury, Birmingham, Warwick, Leamington
(for Strut ford-on- Avon and Kenilworth;. Oxford, Woodstock, Reading, and Slough
(Tor Windsor the route taken by Her Majesty the Queen in traveling between
Windsor and Balmoral).
Passengers holding Through Tickets may break their journey at Warwick or
Leamington, to visit Stratfurd-on-Avon and Kenilworth, and at Oxford to visit the
Colleges, &c.
2. THE WORCESTER ROUTE from Chester to Shrewsbury, and thence
through the Severn Valley. Worcester, Evesham, Honeybourne (for Stratford-on-
Avon), Oxford, Reading, and Slough (for Windsor).
3. THE HEREFORD AND GLOUCESTER ROUTE from Chester to
Shrewsbury, through Ludlow, Hereford, Ross, the Valley of the Wye, Gloucester
(for Cheltenham), the Stroud Valley. Reading, and Slough (for Windsor).
At Gloucester, the line, running through the whole of South Wales, and form-
ing the direct route between London ami the South of Ireland, the Lakes of Kil-
larney, &c., branches out of the main line.
Saloon and Family Carriages (reserved; may be obtained at 24 hours' notice,
for parties of not less than eight persons.
Tickets may be obtained at the Great Western Office, James Street, Liverpool,
or on board the Railway Boats plying between the Liverpool Landing Stage and
Birkenhead.
Passengers should be careful to ask for "Great Western Tickets."
During the Summer months, Tourist Tickets (available for 2 months)are issned,
enabling the holders to break their journey at all places of interest, at a small in-
crease upon the ordinary fares; also, Tickets for "Circular Tours" by Rail and
Coach through the most picturesque parts of Wales (North and South).
Programmes of the arrangements are published monthly, and may be obtained
at any station or from the undersigned.
To the Tourist and the Antiquarian the Great Western Railway possesses feat-
ures of interest unequaled by any other Railway in the United Kingdom. It af-
fords convenient and, in many instances, the only Railway access to places sought
after from the historical associations connected with them, such as Chester, Shrews-
bury (with Uriconium, the ancient Roman city and battle-field, within an easy ride),
Warwick, Stratford-on-Avon, Kenilworth, Oxford, Worcester, Ludlow, Hereford,
Woodstock, Windsor, and many other places of note, all reached by the Great
Western route ; while the scenery of North and South Wales, the Valley of the
Wye, &c., through which the Railway passes, is unsurpassed in Great Britain.
Time-Books, Maps, &c.. are supplied to the Steamships running between En-
gland and America, and they will be forwarded, free of charge, to any part of
America, to all persons applying for the same to the undersigned, of whom full
particulars as to trains, fares, and other arrangements may be obtained.
J. GRIERSON, General Manager.
PADI>I>T,TON STATION. LONDON.
London & North-Western Railway of England.
SHORTEST AND MOST DIRECT ROUTE BETWEEN
LIVEKPOOL (Lime St. Station) and LONDON (Euston Station).
Express Trains in 4.V Hours Thirteen Expresses each Week Day.
LIVERPOOL AND GLASGOW.
Express Serrices in Six Hours.
DRAWING-ROOM SALOON CARRIAGES, without Extra Charge.
specially appointed for the convenience of First-Class Passengers, are attached to the DAY EX-
PRESS TRAINS between Liverpool and London. The Saloons are furnished with
every modern convenience, separate apartments for Family Parties, a boudoir for Ladies, and
compartments for Smokers. A Special Conductor accompanies each Train.
ORDINARY SALOON CARRIAGES are also run daily on the principal Express
Trains from Liverpool to Ixmdon, for the accommodation of First-Class Passengers. Ladies may
travel in specially reserved compartments.
SIMILAR CARRIAGES, on receipt of a telegram from Queenstown. addressed to the Station Master,
Lime Street, Liverpool, or on personal application to the L. & N. W. Co. 's representative on arrival
at the Landing Stage, will be attached to any of the Through Trains from Liverpool for parties of
Seven First-Class Passengers and upwards, without extra charge. COMPARTMENTS can be reserved
for Four First or Six Second Class Passengers.
SLEEPING CARS are run daily by the train leaving Lime Street at 11.10 P.M. (10.45
P.M. on Sundays), and from London by the train leaving at 12 midnight. Extra charge, 5s. (in
addition to the ordinary first-class fare) for each berth occupied.
BAGGAGE. The Station Master at Lime Street Station, Liverpool, will make arrange-
ments for sending on to the London Terminus at Euston Station, or to the Company's West End
Office, Golden Cross, Charing Cross, or to the Depot of the American Exchange, Strand, any
articles of Baggage that passengers adopting the London & North- Western Line may desire to be
forwarded to await their arrival or order.
WEIGHT ALLOWED FREK OF CHARGE : First Class, 120 Ibs. ; Second Class, 100 Ibs. ; Third Class,
60 Ibs. For a charge of fid. per package, baggage can be registered at Lime Street Station and
delivered at any g'ven address (within the usual delivery radius; beyond, 3d. extra) in London,
Leicester, Birmingham, Manchester, and Liverpool.
.. i ,, V w . f Liverpool to London, First Class, 2!>/ ; Second Class, 21/9; Third Class, 16/6.
> ' I Liverpool to Glasgow, First Class, 38/- ; Second Class, 33/3 ; Third Class, 15.
Special Tickets are issued through to London, without extra charge, allowing passengers to
break the journey at Chester, Nuneaton. and at Rugby, to enable them to visit Leamington,
Warwick, Kenilworth, Stratford-on- Avon, &c. Ten days are allowed for the com-
pletion of the journey between Liverpool and London.
A MAGNIFICKNT HOTKL, "The North-Tfestern," specially appointed
for the convenience of American travellers containing upwards of 3OO
Bedrooms, with spacious Coffee, Drawing, Reading. Writing, Billiard, and
Smoking Kooms, and replete with every accommodation - adjoins the
Lime Street terminus.
CON TINE NT A. I., TRAVKI...
THROUGH TICKETS for the railway journey to LONDON, and to PARIS and all parts of
TK CONTINENT, can be obtained at the offices of the Company's Continental Tourist Agents, Messrs. Gizi A SON
S60 Washington Street, Boston , and 136 St. James 1 Street, Montreal. Passengers booking to Liverpool only in the
8rst instance may obtain similar Through Tickets at the I-i.ne Street Station. Full informant! as to Continental
Tours may be obtained of Mr. THOMAS LOWTO*, l.ime Street Station, and of Messrs GAIK * SON, 143 Strand, London.
The Steamship Companies' Orders for tickets to Paris will be exchanged at Lime St. Station.
Omnibuses from the LiTerpool Docks to the Lime Street Station.-l pon rece.pt of a tele-
*ram from Queenstnwn, the Station Master at Lime Street Station will arrange to send Omnibuses to meet the
steamer on arrival in the Pocks at Liverpool, to convey passengers to the North-Western Hotel or Lime hi
SUt The Comirany'p a rovid C e h SMALL OMNIBUSES, capable of carrying six persons inside and two outside, with the
usual quantity ofbimin, to meet the EXPRESS TRAIXS AT EUSTOS STATION, when previously ordeird A tel,
gram ordering nn Omnibus to meet any train will be forwarded to London on application to tin- Station Master at
Lime Street Station, Liverpool, or at any station en routt, tree of charge. The charge for the uae of an Ommbu. is
|so nin'atTeViuenTintcrva&'between EuSTOX and the TERMINI of the London Railways in
with the Co
...^cifving any requirement* as to travelling accommodatiu
L. j; TROWBRIDGE, 3 Broadway. New York.
A reoresentntive nf the London and North-Western Railway Company will meet passengers on their arrival at
the I amlintr Staee Liverpool, to give information as to trains, or take onlere for Saloon Carriages, &c. l-ull par-
ticular, can also be obtained from MR. .TAMES SHAW. District Superintendent Lime Street Station, UwrnoW;
MR. .1. B. LOVELAND, American Passenger Agent, North Western Hotel, Lime Street, Liverpool; and ME. G. F.
NEELE. Superintendent of the Line. Euston Station, London. Vrvn1 AY fi-npral Manager
ECSTOH STATION, LOHDOX, i88>. G. f 1NU1.A1, uenerai .
10
THOMAS COOK & SON,
261 Broadway. New York; Lndgate Circus, London.
ORIGINATORS AND FOUNDERS OF THE
TOURIST AND EXCURSION SYSTEM
(ESTABLISHED IN 1841),
Beg to call the attention of persons contemplating
A TRIP ABROADiflj
To their unequalled facilities for rendering such trips
EASY, PRACTICABLE, AND ECONOMICAL.
COOK'S EXCURSION PARTIES,
In charge of a competent conductor, sail from New York in APRIL, MAT, JUNE,
and JULY.
Tourist Tickets for Individual Travellers
To all parts of the globe, issued in many cases at
REDUCED RATES.
Passage Tickets by all Lines of Atlantic Steamers.
EGYPT AND PALESTINE.
Special facilities of the most complete character for visiting these countries.
THOMAS COOK & SON have their own salaried employees at their own offices at
Alexandria, Cairo, Jaffa, Jerusalem, Beyrout, Constantinople, Athens, and other
chief points, where travellers under their arrangements can receive every informa-
tion and assistance free of charge.
COOK'S STEAMERS ON THE NILE
Are the only steamboats on the River Nile, and no other person or agency is au-
thorized to book passengers for them.
THOMAS COOK & SON have also th- FINEST FLEET OF DAHABEAHS on the
river, for those desiring to make a prolonged stay on the Nile.
COOK'S EXCURSIONIST, with Maps and full particulars, by mail. 10 cents.
Address
THOMAS COOK & SON, 261 Broadway, New York.
11
LnWri
LONDON BRIDGE (General City Station).
VICTORIA (General West End Station, near to Buckingham Palace).
KENSINGTON Addison Road (West End Station).
THE SHORTEST ROUTE
BETWEEN
LONDON AND THE SEJ COAST OF ENGLAND,
ALSO
THE SHORTEST AND CHEAPEST ROUTE
BKTWKKN
LONDON AND PARIS.
Daily Service from London Bridge and Victoria Stations,
In connection with splendid New Steamers between
NEWHAVEN AND DIEPPE.
Through Tickets available to stop on the way at Brighton, Dieppe, Rouen, &e.
Spacious Hotels and Restaurants at London Bridge and Victoria
Stations, also at Newhaveu and Dieppe Harbors.
GENERAL INQUIRY AND BOOKING OFFICES
At 28 Regent 4'frcus, Piccadilly, and 8 Grand Hotel Buildings,
(under the Grand Hotel) Trafalgar Square. Also at XV. F. Gillig
iV <<>." American Kxcliaiige and Keadlng-Hooms, 449 Strand.
Time-Books and every information may be obtained.
DIRECT TRAINS TO BRIGHTON (the Queen of English Watering-Places),
also to TUNBJUDGE WELLS, WORTHING, BOGNOK, EASTBOURNE, ST.
LEONARDS, HASTINGS, SOUTHSEA, the ISLE OF WIGHT, &c. Special fa-
cilities for visits to these beautiful localities during all seasons of the year.
CRYSTAL PALACE. Trains frequently from. London Bridge, Victoria, and
Kensington (Addison Road) Stations the direct and quickest route.
BOXI11LL, DORKING, &c. Beautiful and romantic scenery. Trains from
London Bridge and Victoria only a short journey of about twenty miles. Return
Tickets issued from London Bridge are available to return to Victoria, or vice versa.
ISLE OF WIGHT RETURN TICKETS for one month to Ryde, Cowes, and
Newport ; for Osborne (Her Majesty's Marine Residence), Carisbrooke Castle, and
Sandown, Shanklin, Ventnor, Bouchurch, &c. These Tickets enable passengers
to break their journey at Portsmouth, the principal Naval Arsenal of England.
General Offices, (By order) J. p. KNIGHT,
London Bridge Station. General Manager.
12
fflmfATCO
TO
Holland, Belgium, Germany,
The Rhine, Switzerland, Austria, Italy, &c.
Via HARWICH (Parkeston Quay) ROTTERDAM,
and ANTWERP,
The service of this Company is by Express Boat-Trains between London and
Harwich (Parkeston Quay), leaving Liverpool Street Station every week-day even-
ing at a fixed hour, and, by Steamers in connection therewith, running between
Harwich (Parkeston Quay) and Rotterdam and Antwerp.
The new Steamers of the Company are among the finest running between Eng-
land and the Continent, having all been specially built for this service, and fitted
with all the latest accommodations for Passengers, including Ladies', Dining, and
Smoking Saloons, separate Sleeping Cabins, and Lighted by Electricity, &c. The
depth of water at Harwich, Rotterdam, and Antwerp is such that the large Steam-
ships of the Company are enabled to come alongside the Quays at all states of
the tide. The Steamers are about 1000 tons gross, and 2000 horse power. They
carry no cattle.
NEW THROUGH SERVICE
BETWEEN
THE NORTH OF ENGLAND id THE
Via DONCASTER, MARCH, and HARWICH (Parkeston Quay),
The Continental Boat-Train leaves Doncaster every week-day afternoon in con-
nection with the Steamers from Harwich, and Passengers from the North thus
save the journey to London. During the Summer a through Carriage is run from
Manchester, London Road Station, to Harwich (Parkeston Quay), in connection with
the departure and arrival of the Steamers.
Through Tickets are issued at Glasgow, Edinburgh, Newcastle, Durham, York,
Hull, Leeds, Bradford, Halifax, Doncaster, Liverpool, Manchester, Sheffield, Gains-
boro', Spalding, Sleaford, and Lincoln ; and in London at
THE CONTINENTAL BOOKING OFFICK, Liverpool Street Station ;
WKST-EXD BOOKING OFFICK, 44 Regent Street;
CITY OFFICKS, 48 Lime Street; and Blossom's Inn, Laurence Lane, Cheapside.
For Special Third-Class Tickets to Antwerp and Rotterdam, see page
31 of the Great Eastern Railway Company's Continental Time-Book.
For Time-Tables and all further information u/>/>l<i t<>
F. GOODAY, Continental Traffic Manager,
LIVERPOOL STREET STATION, LONDON, E. C.
3 13
.Vlfil
SIR W.M.TKR SCOTT S MONUMENT.
THE ROYAL HOTEL,
(DONALD MACGREGOK, Owner and Proprietor),
53 PRIXCES STREET, EDINBURGH,
OPPOSITE THE Sf'OTT MONUMENT, AND COMMANDING THE BEST VIEWS OF
THK OARDEN8, CASTLE, ARTHUR'S SEAT, &c.
The Royal Hotol has horn greatly enlarged, uith all modern improvements;
is the nearest first-class Hotel to the Hallway Stations. Reduction of charge,- to
meet the requirements of the times. A night porter in attendance. An Elevator
has been added.
[35- This house is the favorite American Hotel in Edinburgh.
14
BANK OF MONTREAL.
ESTABLISHED IN 1818,
GOLD.
CAPITAL, $12,000,000
RESERVE FUND, 6,000,000
The BANK OF MONTREAL is prepared to issue
CIRCULAR NOTES
AND
LETTERS OF CREDIT
TO TRAVELLERS, AVAILABLE IN ALL PARTS
OF THE WORLD.
N KW YORK OFFICE,
69 4 61 W.B
Buy and sell Sterling Exchange, Francs, and Cable
Transfers; grant Commercial and Travellers' Credits,
available in any part of the world; issue Drafts on and
make Collections in Chicago and throughout the Domin-
ion of Canada.
LOJSTOON OFFICE,
22 ABCHURCH LANE, E. C.
C. ASHWORTH, Manager.
15
OXFORD.
DOL:PPI
only
HOTEL,
IN THE CENTRE OF THE CITY. The only modern built Hotel in Oxford. Cloie to the Oolleires and Public
Buildinirs and commanding a fine open view down Beaumont Street, St. Giles's Street, and Magdalen Street op|x>-
site the Martvrs 1 Memorial. Handsome Suites of Apartments: Ladies' Coffee - Koom, Billiard - Rooms, and every
modern comfort and convenience. Excellent Wines, imported direct from abroad. Charges Mode
Stabling and Loose Boxes. Visitors at this Hotel will meet with every attentior^and conside
Good
MISS I'ANSOX, MAKAOeKESS.
LEAMINGTON.
THE REGENT HOTEL.
A First-Class Family Hotel and Hunting Establishment. Flys :md Omnibus
ineet all the G. W. and L. and N. W. trains. Posting, &c. L. BISHOP, Proprietor.
BUXTON.-ROYAL HOTEL.
Reconstructed, Enlarged, Elegantly Decorated and Furnished. Sheltered Posi-
tion; near to the Baths, Wells, and Gardens. Large Public Rooms; Lawn-Tennis
Ground; Excellent Cuisine; Fine Wines. Moderate charges ; tariff on application.
PHILIP BLADES, Manager.
GRA8MERE.
BROWN'S PRINCE OF WALES HOTEL,
ON THE MARGIN OF THE LAKE.
Patronized by H.R. H. the Prince of Wales. Prince Arthur, and the nobility. Coaches and om-
nibuses meet trains at Windermere Station, anfl steamboats at Waterhead (Ambleside), and to all
parts of the take District daily. Post horses. Mountain Ponies, Boats, Billiards, Lawn Tennis, &c.
LAKESIDE (Lake Windermere).
THE
HOTEL.
A Fine, New House, close to the Steamboat Landin
Special terms for summer residents.
16
and Railway Station.
C.
LZVERPOOL.
ADELPHI HOTEL.
This old-established Family Hotel, having been entirely rebuilt and refurnished,
is now one of the largest in Europe. It contains nearly 300 Sleeping-Rooms, about
50 Parlors, an elegant Drawing-Room, a spacious Smoking-Room in front, Restau-
rant, Visitors' and Luggage Lifts, Billiard-Room with six Tables, &c., &c.
The corridors on each floor are of fire-proof construction, and fire extinguishers
are laid throughout the building.
The Hotel is centrally situated, is near the Railways, Landing Stage, and places
of amusement, and has for upward of fifty years been exclusively patronized by the
leading families of Great Britain, Canada, and the United States.
Carriages of all descriptions constantly in attendance. Post and Telegraph
Offices in the Hotel.
A porter in livery attends all trains by the Great Northern, Manchester, Shef-
field, Lincolnshire, and Midland Railways, and other stations if requested.
All letters and telegrams to be addressed to
W. LUDLOW, Manager.
THE GRESIL4MlofEL,
Upper Sackville Street,
DUBLIlsr.
One of the largest and best-appointed in Ireland. Largely patronized by
American families and tourists. Tariff fixed, and based on moderate scale.
W. HOLDER, Manager.
BUXTON.-ST. AJSrJSPS HOTEL,
CONNECTED WITH THE BATHS BY A COYEKED COLOS>A1E.
CLOSE TO THE CHALYBEATE SPRINGS.
The Great Livery Stables in connection.
Messrs. HARRISON &, LEGROS. _ _
HOTEL,
CONNECTED WITH THE STATION.
One of the Finest Houses in Great Britain.
J. KAY, M!anaer.
MATLOCK BATH, DERBYSHIRE-The Switzerland of England.
On. Midland Railway, near Chats-worth..
TYACK'S NEW BATH HOTEL.
One of the most charming, agreeable, and healthy resorts in Europe. Replete with every
Comfort, and Out -door Recreation. Sport, and Amusement. Beautiful Grounds and Cardon;
Lawn-Tennis ; Large Swimming- Bath; Excursions. Arrangements made for the season. Bus
daily for Chatsworth and return.
OBA.N, SCOTLAND.
SUTHERLAND'S
Great Western Hotel.
BEAUTIFULLY SITUATED; FIRST CLASS.
Well Known as the First in the Highlands.
AN ELEGANT NEW DINING-HALL,
Capable of accommodating 200 Persons.
No Charge for Omnibus to and from Trains and Steamers.
18
OXFORD-CLARENDON HOTEL.
Situated in the most central part of the City, and near to the principal Colleges and places
of interest to visitors. Families and Gentlemen will find this Hotel replete with every com-
fort. Spacious Coffee-Hooms. Private Sitting and Bed Rooms en suite. Guides always in
attendance. Job and Post Horses. Fashionable Open and Close Carriages. Good Stabling
and Commodious Coach Houses. Wedding Equipajres with Postilions.
JOHN P. ATTWOOD, Proprietor.
GLASGOW AM) THE HIGHLANDS.
(Royal
CO U' MB A,
IONA.
CHEVALIER,
GLENCOK.
ISLAY,
FINGAL,
STAFFA,
PIONEER,
Route, via Crinan and Caledonian Canals.;
THE ROYAL MAIL STEAMERS
CYGNET,
QUEEN OF THE LAKE,
GONDOLIER,
And 1NVKKARAY CAMI.K.
CLANSMAN,
LHCHIEL.
GLENGARRY,
MOUNTAIN i :KK.
CLYDESDALE,
LINNET,
Lot 'HA WE,
PLOVER,
Sail during- the Season for Islay. Oban, Fort William, Inverness,
Staffa. lona, Glencoc, Tobermory, Fortrcc, Gairloch. Ross-shire, UllapooL
Lochinvcr. and Stornoway;
Aflording Tourists an opportunity of Visiting the
Magnificent Scenery of Glencoe, the Coolin Hills, Loch Cornisk, Loch Maree,
and the Famed Islands of StafFa and lona.
Circular Tourist Tickets are issued on board in connection with the various Railways.
&g~ T afford in their passaj:" a view of the beautiful >c-n.-ry of the Clyde, with
all its watering-places; tin- Island anil Kyi. s i>{ Bute: Island of Arran: Mountains dfi'owal. Knap-
dale, and Kintyre; Lochfyne; Crinan. with the Islands of Jura. Scarba. Mull, and many others of
tin' Western Sea: the Whirlpool of Corryvrerhan; the Mountains of Lorn, of Morven. of Appin, of
Kingairloch. and Ben-Nevis: Inverlochy: the IjttnK of I.o, luel- the >, eiie of the wander
Prince Charles, and near to where the Chins ra :-<! Ir- g| indurd in '4.'.; I.orhaber: the I'aledonian
Canal ; Loi-h Lochy ; Loch Oich; Ixx;h Ness, with the <;lens :md Mountains on either side, and the
celebrated Falls of Foyers. Books descriptive of the route may be had on board flie steamers.
Time Rills with Maps sent, post free, on application-to the Proprietor, DAVID MACBRAYNE.
11U HOPK STREKT, GLASGOW.
Glasgow. 1880.
19
THE GROSVENOR HOTEL Chester, England,
(IN THE CENTRE OF THE CITY.)
This magnificent Hotel is now open to the public, and, having been entirely rebuilt and
furnished in the most elegant style, will be found one of the most convenient in the King-
dom. A large COFFEE-ROOM; BILLIARD - ROOM ; also, a spacious and convenient
COMMERCIAL-ROOM, to \yhich every attention will be paid ; a LADIES' COFFEE-ROOM,
for the convenience of Ladies and Families; elegant and spacious BALL-ROOM; all the
BEDROOMS ;ire large and beautifully furnished. Stabling for eighty horses.
An Omnibus attend* the Trains, taking families free to and from the Hotel.
GEORGE HOTEL, MELROSE,
NOW THE
George and Abbotsford Hotel,
Altered by special permission from the Honorable J. MAXWELL SCOTT, of Abbotsford.
This Hotel, after extensive alterations and additions such as LADIES' DK \\VINtJ-ROOM
WPITIXG-ROOM, SMOKING-ROOM, BILLIARD-ROOM. LAVATORIES, &c., &c., is now ready
for visitors. The magnificent view from the windows overlooking the Abbey is unsurpassed in
Scotland. The Hotel is also fitted with Pneumatic Bells, and every improvement necessary for
a first-class Hotel. Only two minutes' walk from the Station, and the same from the Abbey.
The charges are not more than in second-class houses. Bedrooms from 2s. upwards.
MELROSE. Jan. 18, 1877.
HOTEL FOUR NATIONS,
Elegant first-class House, situated, with full southern exposure, or
the Rambla the fashionable promenade. Kept on the American plan,
at a certain rate per day.
Messrs, FOETIS & CO,, Proprietors,
IMPERIAL HOTEL,
DONEGAL PLACE,
BELFAST, IRELAND.
W. J. JURY, Proprietor.
IMPERIAL HOTEL, CORK,IRELAND.
P. CTJRRY.
This first-class house, which is THE LARGEST IN IRELAND, is situated in the
most central and fashionable part of the city. Omnibuses and the Hotel Porters
await the arrival of all the day and night Trains.
22
RAILWAY HOTEL, LAKES OF KiLLAMEY.
Patronized by their I. M. the Emperor and Empress of Brazil, and H. R. H. the
D*ke of Connaurjht, during their respective visits to Killarney in 1877.
This Hotel the largest in the Lake District occupies the most central position for vii-it-
iii the various points of interest, aud possesses the necessary appointments Carriages,
Boats, Guides, &c.. for the purpose. Its proximity to the Railway Station enables visitors
to proceed on excursions immediately on their arrival by train. Fixed and moderate
charges. No gratuities.
G. J. CAPSKY, Manager.
LOWER LAKE FBOM TUB ROTAl, VICTORIA HOTEL. KILLARNKY.
THE ROYAL VICTORIA HOTEL,
KILLARNEY, IRELAND.
The Royal Victoria Hotel is situated on the Lower Lake., close to tlir water's odi^, within tei|
minutes' drive of the Kaihvay Station, nnd a short distance from the f.T -fattiei! C.-ui nt' Dunloe.
This lintel, which is Itehted with VSK manufactured on the nrmni-es, lu\s bee:i much enlarged n
magnificent (Joffe/-l!<>oin, a pnhlic lirawiiifj-IIooni fur Ladies and l-'amilics I'.illiard and Snidkinp
l;ix'>nH. ami si ve :il ^nitc.-i of priv.iti' .innrttnent< f:\i-\nx (lie lake, having been recently added.
Talili- d'Hot< during the Season. Mot nnd < ..Id Hath-. Car-. Carri:ii;i's, liojits, Ponies, and Guide*,
at fixed moderate charge* Privrr-v llnatnie'i, mid (.nides are jwiid by the l'p>]>netor, and are n.-if
allowed tosolicit gratuitiei The U".' I ' >iuiiibii.- smd 1'drter- atti-nd the Trains.
MRS. JOHN O'LEARY, Proprietor.
23
HOTEL C HAT HAM,
HOLZSCHUCH, Proprietor.
PLACE VENDOJIK.
RUK DE LA PAUL
67 Rue Nvc. St. Angmstin,
PARIS.
BOTJLEVAKT)
DEB OAPCOINER
HOTEL WINDSOR,
226 RUE DE R1VOLI.
This old-established first-class Hotel, situated in the finest and healthiest part
of Paris, opposite the Tuileries Garden, has been entirely altered and improved
under a new proprietor, formerly director of the Hotel Amirant6. There hare
been added now a Table d'Hote, Hydraulic Lift, Reading, Smoking, and Bath
Rooms. Arrangements for the winter. English, American, and German papers.
HENRY SPRENGEL, Proprietor.
F^RIS.- HOTEL BriSrDA..,
AVENUE DE L'OPEEA; Entrance, No. 11 Bue de 1'Echelle.
Most Central Situation in Paris. Large and Small Apartments; Bath-Room. Reading Room,
Smoking-Room, Lift, kc. American and French Cuisine; American Breakfasts and Specialties.
Under management of the
Proprietor, Mr. CH. HIM) A, formerly Manager at Delmonico's, New York.
PARIS.
GEAND HOTEL DE LA PLACE DU PALAIS KOYAL,
1TO Rxie de Rivoli, 17O.
Fronting the Square of the Palais Royal and the Louvre ; in the vicinity of the Tuileries and Champs E!yts,
Theatres, and Place de la Bourse. Large and Small Apartments, Sitting-Rooms, very handsome Dininit-Room. Table
d'Hote at six; Breakfasts and Dinners in private rooms. Conversation and Reading Rooms. French and Foreign
Newspapers ; Lift; Cab-Stand close by ; Attendants speaking all lungnages.
MEMR. MURSCH & GRADOS, PROPBIITOM.
LHERBETTE, KANE, & CO.,
AMERICAN BANKERS
AND
FORWARDING AGENTS,
19 HUE SCRIBE, 19,
PARIS.
AGENTS FOR THE STEAMERS FROM HAVRE TO NEW YORK.
PACKAGES AND MERCHANDISE FORWARDED BY EVERY
STEAMER TO NEW YORK.
MEDICINES.
SWANN,
ENGLISH CHEMIST,
12 RUE CASTIGL.IONE, PARIS.
This House has had the patronage of the United States Ambassadors and
principal American Families for upward of Twenty Years.
Paris. SUSSE FRERES,
31 PLACE DE LA BOURSE,
MANUFACTURERS OF BRONZES OF ART.
Groups and Statuettes. Marble and Bronze, by the most celebrated Fre Vt rt ! '/lr'
Chandeliers, and Dining-Room Suspensions; Lamps, '*%"*''%* Clomonn,* Ware,
Sevres Porcelain of China and Japan. All articles are marked m plain figures.
PARIS.
RESTAl RANT DE LA VILI,E DE PARIS,
Corner of Rue du Quatre Septembre and Rue do Port Mahon.
Restaurant d la carte and at Fixed Prices. Much frequented by English and Americans.
Private Rooms and Moderate Prices.
N B Not to be confounded with a neighboring house of same name.
HUBERT, formerly of the Cafe Riche.
25
HOTEL BELLEVUE, Paris.
PAEIS. 39 Avenue de 1'Opera, 8 Kue d'Antin, PAEIS,
READING AND SMOKING ROOMS, LIFT, &c.
MR. L. HAUSER, PROPRIETOR.
CHAS. FREES & HOOPER.
LATE
JOAN iHEIDUL
The only TAILORS from
America in Paris.
20, RUE DE LA CHAUSSEE-D'ANTIN, 20.
26
PARIS
GRAND HOTEL DE L'ATHENEE,
15 RUE SCRIBE.
VAUTIER, Director.
Travelers are informed that they will find in the Hotel an Elevator; Bath-
Rooms on each floor ; Restaurant a la Carte ; Two Private Dining-Rooms ; Public
Parlor; Billiard and Smoking Room*; a Reading-Room.
PRINTED TARIFF FOR THE ROOMS.
GANTERIE RENE,
EX-MANAGER OF THE GLOVE DEPARTMENT
IN ONE OB' THE G-RE^T STORES OF 1 r^.RIs?,
30, Boulevard des Italiens, 30.
CLOSE TO THE GRAND OPERA.
The proprietor of this house begs to notify American ladies and gentlemen, who have already
Riven him so many proofs of confidence, that his Gloves can rival in Price, Elegance,
Cut, Quality, :md Freshness, with those of the first houses in 1'aris. The great
care taken iu the manufacture of his Gloves allows him to offer a real guarantee for every-
ih ng leaving his establishment.
PRICES.
SWEDISH GLOVES.
It ii i ion* Frs. 2.6O
KID GLOVES.
Buttons Frs. 3.9O
4
6
8
1O
4.75
6.75 6
7.75 8
8.75 10
10.50112
SPECIALTY OF LONG GLOVES.
...
2.90
3.5O
4.25
4.90
5.90
7. SO
Also the latest fashions and most ui'ii'ful styles of all Articles de Fautaisie. such as Hats. Per-
fumery, Veils, Handkerchief*. Cravats, Scarfs, Parasols, En-Cas, Umbrellas, Fans, Laces,
Flowers, Perfumed Sachets. PlisseS, &c.
SHIRTS MADE TO ORDER.
L. ROCH-SAUTIER
Agent to the British, and. American Embassies,
BANK AND EXCHANGE OFFICE,
GENERAL COMMISSION AGENT, AND WINE MERCHANT,
Agent for the National Line of Steamers.
1O RUE CABTIOLIONE,
PARIS.
ESTABLISHED 5O YEARS.
Mr. L. ROCH-SAUTIER begs to call the attention of the Public
visiting Paris and the Continent to the advantages afforded by the
following branches of his Establishment :
BANK AND EXCHANGE.
Checks on the various Banks of Great Britain cashed on presenta-
tion, at the highest premium, thus avoiding the inconvenience of car-
rying Circular and other Notes, the usual Banker's Commission not
being charged. Accounts Current allowed, and Interest granted on
Deposits. Letters of Credit given for India, China, America, and the
Continent. Sales and Purchases of Public Securities effected.
HOUSE AND ESTATE AGENCY.
Furnished and Unfurnished Houses and Apartments of every de-
scription procured in Paris, its Environs, or any part of France, without
any expense to the Tenant. Estates Bought and Sold. Temporary
or other accommodation secured in the best Hotels by advising the
Firm.
COMMISSION AGENCY.
Every description of Merchandise, Furniture, Works of Art, Bronzes,
&c., obtained at the trade price, thus saving the buyer from 20 to 30
per cent.
FOREIGN AND FRENCH WINES.
The extensive Stock of L. ROCH-SAUTIER, formed during the
last thirty-six years, enables them to supply Wines of the finest quality
on most moderate charges.
28
W D SI A S,
QJ
TAILOR,
NO. 16
RUE HALEVY (Chaussee d'Antin),
Invites the attention of the American and
English
TRAVELERS
to his large Stock of Summer and
Winter Goods, adapted especially to
the wants of gentlemen of taste, style,
and quality in clothing.
COURT DRESSES
Prepared at the Shortest Notice.
29
ENGLISH
HATS
OF THE
FIRST
LONDON
HOUSES.
/ Place de
P A. R, I S.
PORT, SHERRY, CHAMPAGNE.
BURGUNDIES, LIQUEURS, CLARETS.
ENGLISH, IRISH, AND SCOTCH WHISKIES.
L. ROCH-SAUTIER,
WINE MERCHANT,
BANKER,
HOUSE AND ESTATE AGENT
10 RUE CASTIGLIONE,
30
J
PA&IS.
ESTABLISHED FORTY-NINE YEARS.
X
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C A N N E
:PRINCE OF W.AX.ES HOTEL.
Built with all the latest Improvements, and charmingly situated inland, in one of the most
sheltered positions, near St. Paul's Church, it commands at the same time a splendid view of the
sea. There are extensive grounds for Croquet and Lawn-Tennis; Lift with safety apparatus. Vis-
itors will flnd great comfort for a long or short stay, and is highly recommended by medical men.
English Billiard-Room, and Table by Burroughes & Watts. Fencing- Room,Gymnasium ; Complete
Hydropathy ; Winter Garden ; Special Saloon for Educational Courses by noted Professors.
M. DE LA BLANCHETAIS, FORMERLY PROPRIETOR OF HOTEL D'ALBE, PARIS.
MONTE-CARLO.
"LE GRAND HOTEL."
OPENED JANUAKY Isx, 1882.
$ MAGNIFICENT SITUATION.
250 Rooms, and Lift
The Restaurant Francais for Visitors;
Breakfasts, Dinners, and Service a la Carte at all hours,
N. B. The garden, dining-rooms, &c., of the Grand Hotel, and the
Restaurant Franfais, are lighted with Electric Light.
Mr. X. JUNGBLUTH, Proprietor.
N. B. Not to be confounded with '< Grand Hotel Monte -Carlo.'*
32
WASHINGTON CLUB
(CERCLE FRANCO-AMERICAIN),
4 Place de 1'Opera, - - PARIS.
NOTICE TO MEMBERS OF CLUBS.
Any citizen of the United States belonging to a first-class Club, or
citizens of Great Britain and Ireland, Members of first-class Clubs in
their own country, and not residents of Paris, may be admitted to all
the privileges of Membership at the "Washington Club" (with the
exception of introducing guests), for a period of eight days, on pre-
sentation of any document verifying such Membership. The " Wash-
ington Club " has the most beautiful position in the city of Paris,
occupying one side of the Place de 1'Opera ; on the others are situated
the new Opera House, the Grand Hotel, and the Sporting Club.
LAWS AND REGULATIONS
OF
SHOUT WHIST
ADOPTED BY
THE WASHINGTON CLUB
OF
Compiled from the Best Modern Authorities, and as Played in the Principal Clubs
of London and Paris, and in the First Saloons of both Capitals.
WITH MAXIMS AND ADVICE FOR BEGINNERS.
BY
W. PEMBROKE FETRIDGE,
AUTHOR or "HARPER'S HAND-BOOKS," "TIIK RISE AND FALL or THE PARIS COUMINK,"
"HARPER'S PHKASE BOOK," ETC.
NEW YUKK : HARPER & BROTHERS, Franklin Square. PARIS: GALKJN A N f
& CO., Rue de Rivoli. LONDON : W. S. ADAMS & SONS, 59 Fleet Street.
33
DIEPPE SEA-BATHLNG AND CASINO.
j-^KA^ONT 1883.
The Rendezvous in Northern France of the Elite of French and Foreign Society and Clubmen. Theatre (orchestra
of 50 performers), Ball, or Concert every evening. Dancing and Fencing Academy, Gymnasium, Riding-School, and
SkatinR-Rink. Parisian Restaurant by the Sea-shore. Two Race Meetings: first, July 31, August 1, 5, 3, 4; second,
end of August or first days of September. Card, Readme, and Conversation Rooms. Cerclt (Club) da Bairn, reserved
for members of the principal Pans clubs and London Athena?nm. French and Foreign Newspapers ; Telegraph Office.
3% hour* from St. Lazare Station. Direction : Caaino, Dieppe, and 14 Rue des Pyramides, Paris.
GRENOBLE. HOTEL MONNET.
Carriages for Grrande Chartreuse, &c.
TRILLAT, Proprietor.
Marseilles, Restaurant Fouque and Hotel d'Orleiius,
ONE OF THE FIRST IN FRANCE.
PARISIAN CUISINE, PROVINCIAL SPECIALTIES, BOUILLABAISSE (THE
FAMOUS MARSEILLES FISH-DISH), OURSINS, OYSTERS, &c., \c.
19 RTJE ^VA.COTX (A STEP FROM THE CANNEBIERE).
NICE. ANGLO-AMERICAN DRUG STORE
(PHARMACIE INTERNATIONALE),
9 QUA I ST. JEAN-BAPTISTE (under Grand Hotel).
PI.l'MEY & PEttUKIEU, I'liarmaceutical Chemists. Prescriptions carefully prepared; every
known American, English, and French Specialty; Mineral (Congress) Waters; Specialty
of Homoeopathic Remedies. Purveyors to the American Fleet
MENTONE-HOTEL NATIONAL.
Xrw Hotel; superbly situated in a Central P<.siti<m on the Hill, in tlir midst of
Olive iiud Orange Gardens, commanding a fine view of the sea. The best medical
advice. Lift to each floor. Plans of rooms and hotel sent on application.
E. BERTSCH, rroprictor.
34
THE FINEST BEACH ON THE NORMAN COAST.
Grand Hotel and Casino,
THEATRE, CONCERTS, DANCING-PARTIES, AND
FESTIVITIES AND ATTRACTIONS
OF EVERY KIND.
Cercle or Club du Casino.
L, PARENT, Proprietor and Administrator,
HARPER'S PERIODICALS,
Per Year :
HARPER'S MAGAZINE $4 00
HARPER'S WEEKLY 400
HARPER'S BAZAR 4 00
HARPER'S YOUNG PEOPLE 2 00
HARPER'S FRANKLIN SQUARE LIBRARY, One
Number each wct-k for One Year 10 00
Postage Free to all Subscribers in the U/i''t? Wittes or Canada.
HARPER'S FRANKLIN SQUARE LIBRARY : a weekly publication,
containing works of Travel, Biography, History, Fiction, and Poetry, at
prices ranging from 10 to 25 cents per number. Full list of Harper's
Franklin Square LHn-ary will be furnished gratuitously on application to
HARPER & BROTHERS.
Remittances should be made by Post-Office Money Order or Draft, to
avoid risk of loss. Addr
HARPER & BROTHERS, Franklin Square, N. Y.
HARPER'S CATALOGUE, of between three and four thousand vol-
umes, mailed on receipt of Ten Cents in Postage Stamps.
35
E.
GRAND HOmFRASCATI.
Tie Best, and the Best Situated, Facing tte Sea,
OMNIBUS and CARRIAGES at the HOTEL.
OPEN ALL, THE YEAR.
CONCERTS,
DANCING PARTIES,
BATHS, SLC.
ME, TH. FOTSCH, Director,
Formerly of Hotel Quirinal, Rome.
DIEPPE. HOTEL ROY^LL.
ON THE BEACH.
A Magnificent First-Class House. Open all the Year.
_ LARSONNETJX, Proprietor.
DIEPPE.
GRAND HOTEL DBS BAINS.
Best Situation, near the Casino.
FIRST-CLASS HOUSE. OPEN ALL THE YEAIi.
E. TAILLETJX.
HAVRE, GRAND HOTEL DE NORMANDIE,
Erst-Class. Centre of the City. No. 106 Ene de Paris.
In the finest quarter, near the Theatre, Exchange, Pier, &c. Railway Ticket Offk-e
opposite the hotel. T;ihle d'Hote and Restaurant.
BOULOGNE-SUR-MER. HOTEL DBS BAINS.
A FINE, FIRST-CLASS HOUSE,
Near the Railway Station, Steamers, and Casino, and the Largest Hotel in Boulogne.
Splendid Bathing Establishment. Table d'Hote, and all conveniences
36
V 1C MY.
GRAM HOTEL MS AMBASSADEURS.
On (he Park, in front of the Kiosque Musique and the Casino.
200 Chambers. Apartments for Families. A Grand Saloon for Fetes, capa-
ble of containing 500 persons. Smoking-Room, with Billiards.
ROUBEAT7 PLACE, Proprietor.
ROUEN.
GRAND HOTEL D'ALBION,
16 QUAI DE LA BOURSE.
Table. d'Ht'-te Pinner at Six. Dejeiiners a la Carte. Arrangements Made. Large and Small
Apartments. Charges Moderate. English Spoken. v BOCTE1LLEU, Proprietor.
HOTE GBBON.
Old-Established, Excellent Hotel. Full View of the Whole Range
of the Alps and Lake from the Splendid Shaded Terrace and Large
Garden. Pension in Winter.
ItlTTER-ROSSRL, Proprietor.
SKETCHES AND STUDIES IN SOUTHERN EUROPE,
By JOHT^T ADDHSTGrTON SYJVIONDS.
In I u Vuluni, s. I'.'xt STO, (loth, $4.00.
Ptbi.i=HED BY HARPER & BROTHERS, NKW YORK.
Kg- Sent, oy mai/, poslagr prepaid, to any part of the. United States, on receipt of ike prie*.
4 37
MARSEILLES.
THE LARGEST HOTEL IN MARSEILLES:
PACING FULL SOUTH.
UNIVERSALLY REPUTED.
Recommended and patronized by the highest class of society. Newly
restored. Several Patent Lifts. 225 Rooms and Saloons; Reading, Draw-
ing, Billiard, and Smoking Rooms; Divans; Winter Garden; Table d'Hote
and "Restaurant;" Baths on each floor. Omnibus and Carriages at the
Station. Railway Tickets sold in the Hotel. Moderate terms.
PAUL NEUSCHWANDER & CO., New Proprietors.
N. B. Get ICtablissement est le seul a Marseille ou les omnibus et ventures
entrant dans une cour couverte & 1'instar du Grand Hotel a Paris.
a, i/ ~
HOTEL BEAU SITE
AND
HOTEL DE L'ESTEREL.
Both Situated at the West End of Cannes,
In the midst of Most Splendid Grounds, communicating, and adjoining
Lord Brougham's Property the healthiest part of the Town.
300 Bedrooms and Piivate Sitting-Rooms ; Reading, Smoking, and
Billiard Rooms, with English Tables ; Bath-Rooms. Lift with safety
apparatus. Lawn-Tennis Ground considered the finest and largest
in Cannes. Arrangements made.
GEORGES GOUGOLTZ, Proprietor,
AIX-LES-BAINS.
h.oui-8 from Paris; 13 hours from Marseilles ; 3 hours froi
Geneva; f hours fVom Turin.
CERCLE (Club) D'AIX-LES-BAINS,
Situated in Hie centre of the town, near nil the Large Hotels, the Station Public ftanlen.
Untlis. I'osi and Telegraph Ollices. the CKKi'LK H'AIX l.KS MAINS- whose recent aggrandize-
ment has made il one of the most inagnilieent establishments of the kind in France offers to
us members ,ind visitors all the enjoyments and distractions ih,.y can des re.
A THEATRE WITH 800 SEATS AND A RESTAURANT
Will be opened in June, lss-2.
Concerts by the Orchestre of the Cercle; Large Balls (evening dress on
Thursdays); Military Music (Tuesdays at 7.30P.M.); Illumination of the
Gardens; Fireworks; Representations at the Theatre twice
every week by the Comic Opera Troupe of the Cercle.
CHILDREN'S BALLS; FETES DE NUIT,
Reading- Rooms, with French and Foreign Journals; Music and Con-
versation Rooms; Billiard and Jeux de Societe Rooms;
Cafe, Restaurant, Clacier.
PRESENTATION IS OBLIOATOltY.
The CERCLE D'AIX LES HAINS is open from May 1st to October :!1.=t
For all information, please address M. LE DIRECTEUR DU CERCLE.
AIX-LES-BAINS.
"la des
OPENED BUT THREE YEARS AGO,
Is a creation wmch became almost instantly one of the favorite and most popular
resorts of the kind in Europe, attracting many foreigners to Aix-les-Bains.
Situated in a Vast and Magnificent Park, in which (independent of
Daily Concerts by the Casino Band of 50 musicians) splendid Petes de
Nu.it are given on Saturdays, the ViUn <A.s /'/, -nrx offers to the public
Daily Theatrical Representations, Balls, Divers Games,
Card-Rooms, Guignol, Fencing-Hall,
ONE OF THE BEST RESTAURANTS IN FRANCE,
In fact, every comfort, convenience, and enjoyment conceivable.
Season Tickets, 40 francs ; Day Tickets, 3 francs both giving admission to
the theatre, &c.
PATRONIZED BY THE ELITE OF FRENCH AND FOREIGN SOCIETY,
On account of its lion Tun and Elegance.
GEAND CASINO DE LA "VILLA DES FLEURS,"
39
Turin. -GRAND HOTEL D'BUROPE,
Place du Chateau, opposite Royal Palace.
ENTIRELY REFITTED AND RENOVATED. RESTAURANT IN THE EXHIBITION GROUNDS.
BORGO & GAGLIAKDI, Proprietors.
GENOA GRAND HOTEL DE GENES.
MESSRS. L. BONERA & BROTHERS.
Place Carlo Felice the most beautiful situation in the City.
This magnificent and first-class Hotel, toriuei-ly the I'ala/./.i MarHit-M- >|jiuo;a, \\;i> u,-s\lv .1,,1-n, l ;m i r-urir-'lv
refurnishcd about two years ajro. Its situation opposite the celebrated Theatre ' Carlo Felice, " ami in the vicinity
of the English Church, thi; I'ost-Office, the principal Public Buildings, and free from the noise of the railway con-
tributes to render this Hotel a most desirable residence. Large and small apartments fitted up in the most elegant
tyle; Table d'H6te; Heading aud Smoking Saloons; Baths, &c. Omnibuses from the H,.t -1 meet every train.
Pisa HOTEL VICTORIA ET DE L'ARNO.
FIRST-CLASS HOUSE,
Between the Station and Monuments, on the Arno.
FULL SOUTH. D. PIEGAIA, PROPRIETOR.
LEGHORN-ORAND HOTEL
June 1st, 1884.
POETA A MAEE, OPPOSITE THE BATHS PANOALDI
One of the finest, most comfortable hotels in Italy, in the middle of a large
Garden. Beautiful view of the Sea and the Mountains. Hydraulic Lift, Billiards,
Baths, &c. Pension during the Spring, Autumn, and Winter Seasons.
J. SPATZ.
CO-PROPRIETOR OF THE GRAND HOTEL AT MILAN'.
" " " GRAND HOTEL " VENICE.
" " " GRAND HOTEL " LOCARNO.
FLORENCE. HOTEL DE L UNIVERS.
FULL SOUTH.
Every Comfort of the Best Hotels. Spacious Suite of Apartments for winter sojourn ; Beauti-
ful Garden. Mr. S. BARSANTIM, Manager.
Pension arrangements ; moderate charges. Recommended to English and Americans.
N. B. Table d'Hote. Wine included. <i M. SCHILLER, PROPRIETOR.
OIVlNltJUS A.T ALL TRAINS.
Flomice.-KESTAUHAXT DON 7 EY AND NEYEUX,
16 VIA TORNABUONI.
(First floor), most rocherrhc French di MHC: iirnmnd floor). 1'i'iiissprie. Chocolate (factory), Bon
bons. Ices. S:indu iclios. Luncheons. Host Brands of Wine. &c. Elegant Saloons for ladies.
Table d'Hote Dinner, Wine included, served at 6 P. M.
N. B. .Vo cimiwctivii laliattn-r irit.h (' -J'r- 7> ?).. in-.rl ,li,ni:
FLORENCE A LA VILLE DE LYON.
NOUVEAUTES FOR LADIES.
S AND HVULLUSTKKS.
Special Department tor Ladies' Hats, Bonnets, dec.
40
FLORENCE.
M A N U F AC T U K K K,
1 Piazza S. Trinita, 1 (corner Via Tornabuoni).
Large and Magnificent Collection. Patronized by all the crowned
beads of Europe. Fixed prices invariable.
FLOREKCE.
ARTISTIC MAJOLICA,
DECORATIVE AND FOR USE.
SONS OF GIUSEPPE CA.MAGAI1I,
Outside the Porta Romana, on the "Way to Certosa.
INSPECTION INVITED.
FLORENCE KRAFTS^HOTEL D'lTALIE,
LUNG' ARNO :NTJOVO, Full South.
Totally Eeorganized. with all Latest Improvements, Including Lift.
( RERNERHOF. BFRNT:.
BRA.NCH OF ] GRAND HOTEL DE NICE. NICK.
( GRAND HOTEL DE TURIN. TURIN.
ROME. HOTElTE LA M1NERVE.
This house, renownod for its moderate charges, comfort, and irreproachable attendanoe. is
situated in Itie centre of Rnme. in tin- Healthiest Poii(ioii, d'><c i.. the principal monu-
ments. ;mil near the Capitol, the Pantheon, the Corso, I'ost and Telegraph Offices, ic. Table
d'Hote; Reading. Conversation, and Smokiug Rooms; Foreign Journals; Baths. Arc. Servants
speaking principal languages. Mr. J. ""
Rome.-HOTEL CONTINENTAL
OPPOSITE THE STATION,
In the highest nnd healthiest part of Rome, and nearest the Antiquities and At-
tractions. Same proprietor as the well-known HOTEL D'ALI.KMAii.NE, in the
centre of the city, and of the HOTEL DE ITKIN at M.'iit..no. I. '
TVH01, AM) THE SKIRT OF THK ALPS.
BY QEORGE E. WARING, JR.
Illuntrated. 8vo, Olotb, $3 OO.
PCBLISHKO BY HARPER & BROTHERS. FRANKLIN SQUARK, XE\V YORK.
41
HOTEL DE ROME,
BERLIN.-UNDER THE TILLEULS, No. 39.
ADOLPHE MUIHLING, PROPRIETOR.
The first and largest hotel of the capital. Highly recommended. Well kept, clean, and
comfortable. EXCELLENT TABLE D'HOTE AND RESTAURANT. BATHS, CAR-
RIAGES. GERMAN, FRENCH, AND ENGLISH NEWSPAPERS AT THE HOTEL.
ALL LANGUAGES SPOKEN.
ROME.
QUIRINALE HOTEL,
Via Nazionalc.
ONLY HOTEL IN ROME OF GREAT SIZE BUILT
EXPRESSLY FOR A HOTEL.
Every Modern Comfort.
( Lift, Ladies' Parlor, Reading, Smoking, and Conversation Rooms,
all with southern aspects.) Situated in the largest Street of Rome,
on a site selected expressly with a view to healthiness,
42
ROME.
OTEL COSTANZI.
This first-class Hotel contains 350 Sleeping-Rooms and Saloons,
all elegantly furnished. Large Dining, Reading, and Billiard Rooms;
Lift; Fine Gardens. The Hotel is built on the highest and healthiest
position of Rome, and from many of its rooms commands a beautiful
view over the town.
Great Comfort, aM Every Attraction.
CREMONESI, MARTINELLI, & CO.,
PROPRIETORS.
NAPLES.
GRAND~~HOTEL.
FIRST-CLASS AND MOST COMFORTABLE HOTEL, situ-
ated in the fin'est and most select part of Naples, with magnificent
views of the Town, Vesuvius, and the Ba^. Hydraulic Lift.
ALFEED HAUSER, of Lucerne, Proprietor,
NAPLES. KERNOT'S ENGLISH PHARMACY.
Only English Chemist in Naples, and Chemist to II. M. the
King of Italy.
STRADA SAN CAELO 14, opposite Theatre EoyaL
N. B. Travellers arc respectfully cautioned against guides, touters, and messengers, who may
have an object in misleading them.
P. WYSS, SWISS WATCH-MAKER,
STRADA SANTA BRIGIDA 47 and 47bis.
Largest a.-snmi>ut of all kinds of Stem-winders. Watches repaired in a few hours most
efficiently, with guarantee for one year.
43
Naples.-HOTEL TRAMONTANO, BEAU RIVAGE,
Situated on the most picturesque point of the Corso Yitfnrio Einnnuele ; com-
manding views of Mount Vesuvius, the Islands of Capri, Posilippo, the entire Co;ist
Line extending between Sorrento and Naples, &c. Charges moderate.
N. B. All communications to be addressed to MICHAEL BRAZIL DOYLE, DIRECTOR.
GRAND HOTEL BRUN, BOLOGNA,
J. in. FTrtA.~N~K., Proprietor.
The best recommendation for this hotel is its good reputation. Elegant apartments and
single rooms to suit all classes of travellers.
Flue Rreakfast and Dining Rooms; Billiard and Smoking Room*;
Reading-Room supplied with all the principal journals.
The hotel is under the immediate superintendence of the proprietor.
HOTEL TRAMONTANO,
SORRENTO.
Directly opposite NAPLES, with magnificent view of the Bav and its surronnJii-.gs.
ENGLISH PROPRIETOR.
Venioe.-HOTEL DE I/EUROFE.
OLD-ESTABLISHED FIRST-CLASS HOTEL,
On the Grand Canal, opposite the Church of I, a Salute.
Large and Small Apartments, for FH mules and Gentlemen. Visitors will find
this house very comfortable, well situated, and reasonable in charges. Southern
exposure. MARSEILLE FRERES, PROPRIETORS.
VENICE.-GR.AMD HOTEL,
FORMERLY NEW YORK.
Exceptional position, with southern exposure, on Grand Canal, close to the
Place of St. Mark, and opposite the Church of La Salute. Hydraulic Lift.
OCCHETTI & SPATZ, Proprietors. WHRMS & MELANO, Managers.
VENICE. GONDR AND FRERES,
1098 CAMPO SAN GALLO. ST. MARE'S SQUARE.
Tourist Office, Agency of Maclver Line, Allan. Pacific, General Transatlantic,
and most Leading Lines.
NOTICE. Tourists purchasing should call at this office for information respecting shops
and shipment of goods. Reading-Rooms.
STRAY STUDIES FROM ENGLAND AND ITALY,
By JOHlSr RICHARD GREEN, M.A.
Pout Sv>. Cloth, $1.75.
The qualities which Mr. Green's history evinces learning, poetic sympathy, common sense,
large ideas, a genial liking for mankind in general appear in the new volume of ".Stray
Studies." Every chapter in this book shows the thoroughness of work and culture we should
have expected. The range of thought, sympathy, and knowledge must be considerable of a man
who discusses with equal zest and interest the manners of the poor of London, the resemblance
between Virgil and Tennyson, the Florence of Dante, the foibles ot British tourists, and the
charms and glories of the British maiden. * * * These "Stray Studies" will be a source of real
pleasure and profit to all who read them. The range of gifts and sympathies they show is indeed
remarkable. N. Y. Times.
PUBLISHED BY HARPER & BROTHERS, NEW YORK.
HP* Sent by mail, postage prepaid, to any part of the United States, on receipt of the price.
44
Venice. Grand Hotel Royal Danieli.
Pala
This beaiuilul lirst rlu.-- ilut. -1 - > mated on the (jranil (.anal. \vitti. u:> lert steps ui mi- i.ogr .<
midce. in the most delightful position in Venice. It contains 170 Chambers. Saloons for
Conversation, Smoking. Heading, and Billiards. All Interpreter will be luutid at lUe station
on the arrival of each train. GKXoVKSl i CAM PI, Proprietors.
VE1STICE.
TIIK I;K.SIAI HAM
GRAND HOTEL D'lTALIE,
Near St. Mark's Square, on the Grand Canal, racing the Church of St. Maria Salute. Fresh and
Salt \Vater Baths ready at all hours. Celebrated lor its Restaurant and Vienna He<;r The splen-
did Restaurant "Grunwald" lielongs to the same proprietor. RATER (JKl'XWALl). PROPRIETOR.
45
VENICE
VENETIAN LACE.
M. JESURUM & CO.,
MANUFACTURERS.
Patronized by all British and American Visitors.
Decorated by H. R. Majesty the King of Italy.
VENETIAN LACE MANUFACTURERS,
BY APPOINTMENT, TO THE KENSINGTON MUSEUM.
THE SHOW AND WOEKING EOOMS MAY BE VISITED,
FIXED PRICES IN MARKED FIGURES.
OLD LACE BOUGHT AND SOLD.
WHOLESALE TRANSACTIONS.
Campo Ss. Filippo e Giacomo No. 4292,
THE BRIDOE OF 1 SIG-HS ;
AND NO OTHER ADDRESS OR SHOP IN VENICE.
Prizes at the Royal Institute of Sciences, Letters, and Arts, Paris,
1878; Melbourne, 1880; and Milan, 1881.
46
X
GRAND HOTEL CONTINENTAL,
Palais Loria, 7 "Via Manzoni.
Opened January. 1882. Hydraulic Lift; Farquhar's and Oldham's American Filters; greatly
patt<onid by Americans; the nearest to Cathedral and centre of town
Messrs. M VKI M. 1.1 (, N \ M. A CO.
GRAND HOTEL DE MILAN,
MILAN.
Cor so del O u a i" d i n o.
This first-claps Establishment is entirely restored by the new proprietors, and fitted tip
in the most comfortable style. It contains Two Hundred Rooms, large and small Apart-
ments for Families and single srentlenien, and is very well situated in the centre of the Kail-
way Stations, Public Uai'dehs. Cathedral, Theatre Scala, Picture Gallery, Ac, Table d'Hote,
Breakfast. Lunch, and Dinner at any hour at fixed prices, or & la carte. Music Saloon,
Beading-Room, Smoking-Room, Hot and Cold Baths. Moderate charges. Lift in commn-
J. SPATX, Proprietor.
MILAN, Italy:
Hotel Grande Bretagne & Reichmann,
Torino, No.
This Hotel has been greatly enlarged by uniting the REICHMAXN and GRAN'D BRETAGXE,
and entirely refurnished by the new proprietors, Messrs. Rossi & AxnRosKTTi. Apartments
for Families and single gentlemen. The house is situated in the centre of the town, near the
Cathedral, Theatres, and all the principal places. Table d'Hote. Galignani's Messenger taken.
Several languages spoken. The House is only two stories high, and five minutes' walk from
the English Church. Brougham and Omnibus to meet all the Trains.
MADRID.
GRAND HOTEL DE LA PAIX Fucrta del Sol, 11 and 12.
French Cuisine: Table d'Hote aiul Private Diiiinjr-Kooius for families; Iteading-Konro nppUed with foreign n<
papers; Baths in the Hotel at all hours: Private I'arriairf*. lnter|m'ters, c
Branch House: HOTEJL. DE J^ONDRK.S, for families.
The only too French Betel* in Madrid. MM:S. CAPUEVIKI.LE & CO.. PROHKIETORS.
MADRID.
FONDA (HOTEL) DE PARIS,
On the Puerta del Sol.
Messrs. FALLOLA & CO., Proprietors.
SEVILLA.
FONDA (HOTEL) DE PARIS.
THE BEST HOTEL IN SEVILLA,
Messrs. FALLOLA & CO., Proprietors.
48
BRUSSELS.
THE GRAND HOTEL
Largest, Finest, and Newest Hotel
IN BRUSSELS.
ON THE BOULEVARD ANSPACH,
\ \fJ
The Grand Thoroughfare of Brussels.
EQUIDISTANT FEOM THE TWO STATIONS,
BRUSSELS.
ROYAL LACE MANUFACTORY.
BO VII, DE BUCK,
RTJE ROY^LE, 74.
One of the Oldest-Established and Largest Lace Houses in Brussels. Price of
every Article marked in Plain Figures. Medals and Diplomas .-it numerous Ex-
hibitions. Dresses, Shawls, Flounces, Tippets, Collars, Head-Dresses, Fans, Parasols,
Handkerchiefs, &c.
N. IJ. Strangers are respectfully requested to visit the Workrooms.
BRUSSElS^GRAND HOTEL DE SAXE.
English. House, 77 and. 79 Rue Neuve.
Admirably situated near the Boulevards, Theatres, and in two minulf*' walk from the North
Railway Station. This House offers to Families, Tourists, and Merchants every Comfort, and
Spacious, Comfortable, and Airy Apartments. Moderate Prices. Tariffs in every Room. English
Daily Newspapers. Table d'HAte at Five and Half-past Six o'clock.
Waterloo Coach leaves the Hotel every Morning at 9.30. M. GRADKR-MKURISSE, Proprietor
COIIEUE.
FIRST-CLASS HOUSE. THE LARGEST AND OLDEST L\ THE TOWN.
FINE GARDEN. OMNIBUS AT THE TRAINS.
. VAN DEN Hi l.lli:, Proprietor.
BRUSSELS.
HOTEL DU GRAND MONARQUE.
Favorite House, with Moderate Charges, in the centre of the City
(Rue des Fripiers). Close to all Attractions. Excellent Cuisine,
Wines, and Table cTffote. Garden Court.
Mademoiselle E, WAUTEES, Proprietress,
GHENT (GAND).
HOTEL ROYAL.
Situated in the centre of the City, on the Place d'Arraes. Con-
tiguous to all Public Establishments and Railway Station. Travellers
will find every comfort at this Hotel, and experience prompt atten-
tion from the attendants. Arrangements made with Families at very
Moderate Prices during the Winter Season.
Spa HOTEL D'ORANGE^
NEXT DOOR TO THE CASINO,
AND CLOSE TO THE BATHS AND "POUHON."
N". 33. The Proprietor, Madame IMULLER,, speaks English.
SPA.-GRAND HOTEL DE I/EUROPE.
FIRST-CLASS HOUSE.
Close to tlie English Church, Casino, and Springs,
III<:MCAKI>-KI< llAicn, Proprietor.
LIEGE. HOTEL^DE L'EUROPE.
The Best and Oldest-Established Hotel in the Town,
IN THE FINEST SITUATION, AND CLOSE TO THE STATION.
OSTEND.-HOTEL FONTAINE.
Universal Reputation. The Largest and Best in Ostend. OPEN
ALL THE YEAR ROUND. Dining-Room for 200 Covers. Pict-
ure-Gallery. Ladies', Reading, Smoking, Music, and Conversation
Rooms. Charges Moderate.
50
BELGIUM.] 8 PA. [BELGIUM.
CHALYBEATE WATERS.
Tie Most Ancient, ani tie Richest in Iron, in the World
Season from May 1st to October 31st,
SPLENDID NEW BATHING ESTABLISHMENT,
With Mineral or Fresh Water Baths, Douches,
Vapor Baths, &c.
Eir,HT SOURCES RENOWNED FOR THEIR EFFICACY IN CASES OF DK-
BILITY, CHLOROSIS, CONSUMPTION, STERILITY, MALADIES OF THE
STOMACH, MALADIES OF CHILDREN, THE EYES, GRAVEL, fec.
MAGNIFICENT CASINO.
CONVERSATION, READING, AND CARD ROOMS.
Balls and Evening Dances, Theatre, Day and Evening Concerts, Fetes
of all descriptions.
FIRST-CLASS HOTELS, RESTAURANTS, AND CAFES.
Hunting, Fishing, Shooting, Riding -Horses, Splendid Races, Steeple-
chases. Salubrity of the Climate proverbial. Celebrated Sites
and Walks in the neighborhood. Direct Commu-
nication by rail with all parts of Europe.
TELEGRAPH.
IT.B. For all information required, American travellers are requested to apply to
the Direction of the Casino and of the Fetes of Spa.
51
BRUSSELS.
[fluiiJJla
HOTEL DE SUEDE.
Among tie oldest, lest, and most renowned in Belgium,
telf w
CENTRE OE THE CITY
(RUE DE I/EVEQUE).
Apartments most comfortable.
Excellent Cuisine-
Celebrated "Wine- Cellar.
Mr. VAN CUTSEM, Proprietor.
OSTEND.
Mr. L. DEL BOUILLE,
BANKER,
Ostend House, 1O .Ave. Leopold.
PROPRIETOR OF THE
Building Sites of " New Ostend."
N. B. Mr. DEL BOUILLE, who speaks English fluently, places himself at
the disposal of all travellers or foreigners for reliable local information or
advice.
52
OSTEND.
The Season at this most beautiful
nnd most frequented Sea-side Water-
ing Place, the summer residence of
Their Majesties the King and Queen
of the Belgians, is open from June to
October.
NEW AND MAGNIFICENT
KURSAAL. Daily Concert, Two
Orchestras. Soirees Dansantes and
Grand Balls. Regattas, Pigeon-
Shooting, Races, Fishing, Skating-
Rink, Festivals, Theatre, Casino,
Park Leopold. Sea Bathing under
Municipal Administration.
Regular Steam Communication
with London and Dover. Distance
from Paris 8 hours by rail.
53
HOTEL CONTINENTAL,
OPPOSITE THE BATHS.
Magnificent First-Class House of 200 Beds, facing the Sea. Ele-
gant Restaurant (Terrace). Lift. Next to the Casino.
V. HICHENS, Proprietor.
BrusseTs^RESTAURANT DESTROVENCAUX,
40 EUE EOYALE, OPPOSITE THE PARK,
Near the Royal Palace, the Ministries, the Palace of Justice, and Theatres. First-class Estab-
lishment with Private Rooms and Saloons, and Service d la Carte, and at Fixed Prices.
V. FONTEYNE.
OSTEND. HOTEL DU PHARE,
On the Sea-Dike, opposite the Estacades, and near to the Kursaal.
Large and Small Apartments. Table d'Hote and Restaurant a la Carte, and at
Fixed Prices. House of the First Order. Excellent Wine-Cellar.
E. BILLIARD.
STE N D ,-H OTErTETFPL A G E,
First-class and Best-Patronized Hotel and Restaurant in Ostend.
Beautiful Position on the New Dike, facing the Sea, and close to the Casino.
H,. THOJYLA., Proprietor,
AMSTEL HOTEL, Amsterdam, Holland,
I
II. \ICri-: 1C* PHRASIi-BOOK.
Harper's Phrase-Book; or, Hand-Book of Travel-Talk for Travellers and Schools. Being a Guide
to Conversation in English, French, German, and Italian, on a New and Improved Method.
Intended to accompany "Harper's Hand-Book for Travellers.' 1 By W. PEMBROKE FETRIDGB,
assisted by Professors of Heidelberg University. With concise and explicit Rules for the Pro-
nunciation of the different Languages. Square 4to, Flexible Cloth, $1.50.
HARPER & BROTHERS, NEW YORK.
t&~ Sent, carriage paid, to any part of the United States or Canada, on receipt of the price.
54
BRUSSELS.
HOTEL DE L'UNIVERS.
ELEGANT, FIRST-CLASS HOUSE,
Situated in. the Centre of the City, bet-ween, the Two
Itailway Stations.
Close Proximity to the Theatres and Boulevards,
Entirely refitted, with Garden and adjoining Parlors, Reading and
Smoking -Rooms.
WATERLOO COACH AT 9.30 A. TO.
Entrance on the Boulevard du Nord.
Madame SCHOEFFTER-WIERTZ, Proprietor.
HflTFT IM PAV<!
tiL ILo lAlo
Large, Spacious, Moderate Priced.
TAN DEN BRINK, Proprietor.
HAARLEM HOTEL FUNCKLER.
BKST HOUSE.
For years patronized by English and American Travellers.
CLOSE TO THE STATION, IX THE KRUISTRAAT.
P. C. C. JACOBI, Proprietor.
THE HAGUE,- HOTEL BELLEVUE,
First-Class, Old-Established, Favorite House with English and Americans. Op-
posite the Royal Park and the Rhine Railway Station. Beautiful Garden, and
T'nsurpasscil Situation. C. J. VAN VELSEN, PROPRIETOR.
A MSTERDAM.-HOTKL KRASXOPOLSKY
AND CAFE RESTAURANT.
WARMOI-SSTKAAT (close to the Dam).
One of the Sights of Amsterdam.
55
HOTEL ST.
Brussels. - HOTEL M ENCELLE.
HISTORICAL STUDIES OF CHURCH -BUILDING
IN THE MIDDLE AGES. Venice, Siena, Florence. By CHARLES
ELIOT KOKTON. 8vo, Cloth, $3.00.
PUBLISHED BY HARPER & BROTHERS, NEW YOKK.
f3F~ Sent by mail, postage prepaid, to any part of the United States, on receipt of the price.
CENTRAL HOTEL. BERLIN.
Facing the Central Railway Station (Kriedrichsin^si-i. (ieurgeu Street, Friedricbs Street,
Dorotheen Street.
The "Central Hotel" has been enlarged by a Dependance containing 100 Rooms and
Saloons, recently fitted with all desirable modern comfort.
The most agreeable and comfortable habitation which 7i-li/t can offer to Foreigners.
This unrivalled Establishment, in which sumptuous comfort is com-
bined with every possible attention, is
THE LARGEST HOTEL IN GERMANY,
PATRONIZED BY THE HIGHEST CLASS OF AMERICAN TRAVELLERS.
600 Bedrooms and Saloons from 3 Marks.
The price published in every Room includes Heating, Service, Light, and
Free Admission to the Daily Concerts in the Winter Garden.
Dining-Room, Restaurant a la Carte, Reading-Room, Ladies' Room.
Most popular POLITICAL and ILLUSTRATED PAPERS of all the World.
60 English and American Papers.
LIBRARY. Selection of EiiL'lish. German, French. Italian, Spanish, and Russian Authors.
Directories of ail the important Towns of the whole World.
LIST OF TRAVKm-RS (IF KYKKY BATH AM) \VATKRI.\G I'LACl- OF EUROPE.
ELECTRIC LIGHT.
Breakfast (Dejeuner a la fourchette) from 12 to 2 o'clock, at 21 Marks.
Table d'Hote at 5 o'clock, at 3 Marks.
BATHS ON EVERT FLOOR.
THREE LIFTS of the latest and best construction communicate with every floor.
BUREAU of the INTERNATIONAL SLEEPING CARS' Company,
Railway Tickets, Luggage registered.
POST AND TELEGRAPH OFFICES IN THE HOTEL.
BUREAU FOR INFORMATION AND THEATRICAL OFFICE.
TELEPHONE IN THE HOTEL.
Large, sumptuous Winter Garden (Crystal Palace) for 2500 Persons.
Purinir the \\intcr scaxrn advantairrinis
BOARDING ARRANGEMENTS
are made. Particulars at our Chief Office.
57
COLOGNE. HOTEL DU NORD.
The only first-clase Hotel contiguous to the Central Station, the Cathedral, mid the Rhine. 300 Roon.n nn<l
fcloon. Fine view over the Kliine. Garden and Baths. French Cook. On, minxes at every train. Sale of rti. .ii-e
Ulilu Wine* for exportation, &c. Tariffs in every room. Hot ami Cold Biitlix in tin- Hotel. Over 45,00) vi*itr..ii
Mop :it tliis Hotel vearly. Post and Telegraph Office. RAILWAY TICKETS AM> U'l.GACE ItKf.ISTKIFU In
ANY IIESTIXATIOX IN THE HOTE!.. Proprietor. Mr. FKIF.DKIC11, Purveyor iu Ithiue Win s to the Kinder .r
uf uunuunj, &c., and Proprietor of the celebrated TAl'XfS Ml.vEUAl. WATEK.
COLOONK.
JOHN MARIA FARINA,
OPPOSITE THE JULICHS-PLACE,
The Most Ancient Distiller of the
EAU DE COLOGNE SINCE 17O9.
Purreyor to their Majesties the Queen of Great Britain and Ireland, the King of Prussia, the
Emperor of Austria, the Emperor of all the Kussius, H.K.H.the Prince of Wales, Ac., Ac.
PRIZE MEDALS IN LOXDOX. 1851 AND 1862; HOXORABLE MEXTION IX PARIS, lH. r ).'>;
PRIZE MEDAL IX PARIS, 18fi7, AND VIEXXA, 1873.
f>\ /* TTrpT/NWT With regard to the groat number of manufactures of a so-called
W.LJL.L) A. XLPJtM Eau de Cologne carried on by people who. have succeeded in get-
t ug a firm of FARIXA in order to be able to sell their article, it is of particular necessity to
caution persons who are desirous to purchase my genuine Eau de Cologne to direct letters to my
exact address: JOHANN MARIA FARINA, CJEGKNUBKK DKM JCI.ICHS-PLATZ (which means opposite the
.1 iilichs Place), COLOGNE (without addition of any number).
Travellers visiting Cologne, and intending to buy my genuine article, are cautioned against
being led astray by cabmen, guides, commissioners, and other parties who offer tlieir services to
them. I therefore bog to state that my manufactory and shop are in the same house, situated
O:'POSITK the .lulichs i-lare. anil nowhere else. It happens frequently that th* said persons con-
duct the nuinstriicted strangers to shops of one of the fictitious firms, where, notwithstanding as-
sertion to the contrary, they are remunerated with nearly half of the price paid by the purchaser,
who. of course, must pay indirectly this remuneration by a high price and a bad article.
Another kind of imposition is practised in almost every hotel in Cologne where waiters,
comnvss : oners. &c .. offer to strangers Eau de Cologne, pretending that it is the genuine, and that
I had furnished it for the purpose <>f selling it for my account. The Eau de Cologne shops oppo
site the Cathedral have no connection with me.
The only certain way to get in Cologne my genuine article is to buy it personally in my own
house, OPPOSITE THE JULICUS-PLACK. JOH.4IV1V IflAUIA FAKINA,
COLOGSB, January, 1883. (...(.l.MHKR DEM Jui.ICHS Pl.ATZ.
AIX-LA-CHAPBLLE.
HOTEL DU GRAND IIOXAKQIK.
This ^fagnificent and Ijirge Hotel, for families and single travellers, continues to maintain its
F,uroi>ean reputation for being the favored residence of travellers of all nations. The Proprietor,
Mr. KKITZ DKKMKI.. obtaine<l this unusual patronage l>y tin- extreme cleanliness and the comfort
of his apartments, the richness and excellence of the viands aud wines, added to the attention
and civility of the attendants. Table d'Hote at 2 and 6 o'clock.
HOTEL NUELLENS. Proprietor, Mr. G. F. DRKMKF.. Opposite the
Fountain Klisu, and situated in the most fashionable part of the City. Has great attractions to
tourists and travellers. This house possesses excellent accommodation for single persons or
large families, and the cuisine department will afford satisfaction to the most fastidious taste.
Table d'Hote at o'clock. Extract from the 18th Edition of "Murray's Handbook:" "This
Hotel, in the best situation, is recommended as capital."
KAISEKBAD HOTEL (liAixs DK I/EMPKUEUR). This new and splen-
did Bathing Establishment has been recently fitted up in the most comfortable and elegant
manner. The principal spring of Aix rises in the Hotel itself.
THE NEUBAI) HOTEL. New Bath, attached to the Hotel, also
belongs to .Mr. OKKMKI.; it has extensive accommodation.
Mr. DKEMEL, the well-known Landlord of the " Grand Monarqno,"
Neuliad." and Xuellens " Hotels, is also Proprietor of the "Kaiserbad Hotel." :uid personally
superintends the management of the four establishments Mr. DRF.MEL spares no expense or
efforts to render the accommodation of these superior first class Hotels preferable to all others.
The combination in one hand of four establishments of such magnitude enables the proprietor to
afford suii.ii.le accommodation " at all prices." These establishments are especially arranged
for Winter Cures.
WIESBADEN, Baths of.-FOUR SEASONS HOTEL and BATH-HOUSE.
,
lio Tl I. QI ATRE SAISONS and lloi I I. ZAIS.
ABBA.XiKMEMS FOK U1MEU KKSIDKX K. WX. ZUS, Proprietor.
BINGEN.-HOTELYICTORIA.
Beautiful Position on the Banks of the Rhine; Ternu-e. Opposite the Na-
tional Monument, "German ia." Close to Station and Steamboat La n din-,'. Ar-
rangements for Pi-olongud Stay. J H SOHERR, Proprietor.
HOTEL BELLEVUE, Dresden.
'
Situated on the Hiver Elbe, facin-r the New Opera -House, the Galleries, the Green
Vaults, CnthPilMl. and Hruhl's Terraci!.
\Vell-kn, .wu, flrs!-clas< EMublishment, with 150 rooms.
Families desirous of taking apartments for the winter can make arrangement* at very
moderate prices. 59
EMS (Baths of).
Season Opens May 1st Closes in Mid-Octobef,
MINERAL SPRINGS
(Chloride of Sodium, 23 4 Reaumur).
Springs, Baths, &c., of old-established celebrity against Chronic Catarrh of the
Respiratory and Digestive Organs, Congestion of the Liver, Formation of Stone in
the Bladder, Gout, Gravel, Incipient Bright's Disease, Diabetes.
Sovereign in the treatment of Dyspepsia, and in thousands of cases proved to
be most efficacious in the treatment of Sterility, and a quantity of affections of
the Womb and Uterus.
During the Season daily Military and Artists' Concerts in the Park and Kur-
saal; German and French Theatres; Balls and Reunions. Abundantly supplied
Reading-Room ; Conversation Rooms. Railway Station; Post and Telegraph Of.
fices.
One Hour by Rail from Coblentz.
For any particulars, address
THE ROYAL PRUSSIAN KUR-DIRECTION.
EMS HOTEL AND BATHS FOUR TOWERS.
First-Class, Quiet, and Aristocratic.
In the Park, close to the Kursaal, and connected with the Koyal Baths.
Madame WE. BECKER Proprietor.
HOTKL ROYAL, BONN. This excellent Hotel, one of the best on the Continent,
*~* patronized by King Leopold of the Belgians ami by the Koyal Family of England : and recently the Prince
nd Princess of Walet, tho Princes Alfred ami Arthur, have faTored this Hotel with their visit ; and the Proprietor
has been honored with the household of the Prinee Alf.-.-d during ill time <> I' his study at B-.nn
This Hotel is charmingly situated on the banks of tli,- JJhine. r mmands tin- nmsl beautiful view of th>- -
Mountains, facing the landing-place of the Khine Steamers, an I ii">r the Railway siation. This Hotel combines ev-
ery comfort with moderate charges ; ami its situation is s , r..nvenieiit that Travelers will find it a highly agreeable
place of residence or of temporary sojourn, t" whi.'h a splendid garden of four acres long, laid out in the F.ngli-h
style, will grentlv contribute. For families or -ingle p-r>ons dei.ir.us to stay for the wintT th u,ot advantageous ur-
rangvnent can lie made f..r h-anl and loil_-!n ,- Table d'hote at hall |..i-t i un I :i .'e:..ek M.-. E1.2IKKIKI.. IV-i
WIESBADEN RHINE HOTEL AND BATH.
FIRST-CLASS HOUSE,
OPPOSITE BAILWAY STATIONS, POST, AND TELEGEAPH.
BEArTiFCL WINTER GARDES. WINTER PENSION.
Proprietor, ^Ir. MOZIOIX", "Wine ^Merchant.
First-Class House, of European Eeputation,
BEKTHOM) FAMILY, Proprietors. Mr. SAEGMtLLER, Director.
60
EMS.
HOTEL D'ANGLETERRE
(Englischer Hof ).
Old Renowned, First-Class House. Largest in Ems. Beautiful Po-
sition, opposite Royal Baths, close to the Casino. Beautiful Garden.
HOTEL BEAU RIVAGrE.
Beautiful Position, facing the Sea,
ON THE MONACO ROAD.
Fine, First-Class House, close to Casino. Arrangements for Pro-
longed Stay. F. SCHMITT, Proprietor.
HOTEL DE PARIS, STRASBURG, GERMANY.
Mr. Rufenacht. Proprietor of this unrivalled Ks!aM : shment. respectfully offers hi? grateful ncknowl-
eilifinenlsto the English Nobility and (; entry for their continued pat ronage.and a vails himself of this
invasion to assure TraveUera visiting Strasbourg (bal m eii'i <r\* will be spared on his pun ;
tln'ir sojourn at the above Hotel both comfortable and satisfactory. ChargM moderate. Breakfast,
Fable d'Hote at 1 o'clock. :J fr. . and at (> o'clock. 4 fr. Rreakfa.*t and Dinners a la carte
at all priivs iioom.- from 1 fr .''He to 4fr.. lisrhts inrludeil. /'fnf'<i from f, fr. to s fr. per day.
Slrasburg-HOTEL D'ANGLETERRE,
Large, First-Class House, opposite Central Station.
NEAR CATHEDRAL, POST AND TELEGRAPH OFFIC'IIS.
C. MATH IS, Proprietor.
5 61
KREUZNACH (Baths of), GERMANY,
HOTEL AND RESTAURANT IN CONNECTION,
Open the 1st of May.
Saline Springs of Iodine and Bromine. Romantic En-
virons. Healthy Climate. Mineral Baths in all the Ho-
tels and Private Boarding-Houses, through Pipes from
the Springs. Drinking Cure at the Elizabeth Spring,
with New Drinking-Hall. Inhalation, Douches, and Vapor
Baths. All the Agreeable Attributes of a First-Class
Bathing - Place. Splendid Band (Manssfeld Orchestra),
Concerts, Reunions, Theatre, Fireworks, and Regattas.
Reading-Room, with Newspapers in all Languages.
Direct CniraM ij Rail il all the Principal Cities.
For further information, apply to the
Direction of the Baths, Kreuznach.
SCHWALBAOI (Baths of),
IN THE TAtJNCS, PRUSSIAN PROVINCE OF HESSE-NASSAH.
The Strongest, Clear, Iron Springs, with Rich Quantity of Carbonic Acid. Mud Baths. 300
Metres above the Sea. Beautiful Bathing Installation. Renowned for cases of Poverty of Blood
and Consequent Diseases. Railway Stations : Wiesbaden. Zollhaus, and Eltville. Omnibus and
direct Railway Tickets. Season from May 10th to Oct. 1st.
SCHAVALBACH. HOTEL ALLEESAAL
FIRST AM) LARGEST HOUSE SINCE 1796. CLOSE TO KLRSAAL.
Arrangements for Stay, Villa, &c.
F. G-REBERT SO1STS, Proprietors.
SCHLANGENBAD (Baths of)
Old. Renowned Baths (26 R.). Efficacious in Nervous Diseases, Women's Complaints, Gout
and Rheumatism, Scrofula, Diseases of Skin, Bad Complexion, &c. High-Situated Forest Cure.
\v th Miles of Dustless Walks. Royal Milk-Cure Establishment (fioats' and Cows' Milk). Railway
Stations, Wiesbadon and Eltville ; Diligence from Eltville and Schwalbach. Till May. and from
beginning of September. Reduction in Price of Rooms.
SCHLANGENBAD, HOTEL VICTORIA,
OPPOSITE NEW BATH-HOUSE.
First-Class. Charges Moderate and Pension. Boar and Deer Hunting, and
good Trout Fishing. W. WINTER, Proprietor.
62
\vn:-it \in:v v i \ri:it HOP.
HOTEL AND VILLA NASSAU.
In a Beautiful Position opixisile the Curhaus. Proim-mulo, Colonnade (Theatre to the Side),
anil close to the Kochbniiincii. Kli-sjantly i.'omlix-t'M I', ill.- (S',i-ini;< in rlpusAi, KI-"-i-
Table d'Hote at 1 and 5. Large, Quiet, and Elegantly Furullicd Villa,
lor I'ainilies for Prolonged Stay
WIESBAI>EN.
HOTEL ET BAINS DE LA ROSE.
HAEKKN-ER, 13 KO^., PROPTCIKTORS.
HOT AND COLD MINERAL BATHS. THIS FIRST-CLASS HIM SK IS BEAUTIFULLY SITU-
ATED IN ITS OWN GROUNDS. - CLOSE TO THE KURSAAL.
63
HOMBURG (BATHS OF),
Near Frankfort-on-the-Main.
The Homburg Waters are very salutary in Diseases of the Stomach
and Liver, and attacks of the Gout. Unrivaled Summer Climate. The
mountains' pure and bracing air contributes largely to invigorate the
system, and is very beneficent in Nervous Affections. Mineral, Cold,
and Warm Baths; Pine Baths. Whey Cure.
Excellent Orchestra, Regimental Bands, Grand Balls, Reunions, Illuminations,
Theatre, Concerts given by celebrated artists. Children's and Rustic Fetes.
Races. Lawn Tennis. Cricket and Croquet. Shooting and Fishing.
Comfortable Hotels and Private Houses at moderate prices. Magnificent Kur-
haus. Splendid Ladies' Conversation and Reading Rooms, Cafe, Billiards, with
the well-known Restaurant. Close by the Kurhaus vast and beautiful Park, with
Orangery. Delicious Walks and Carriage Drives. Charming Environs.
THE SEASON LASTS THE WHOLE YEAR.
ROTTERDA.M.
HOTEL VICTORIA.
First-class House, on the Qnai, near the Park. Favorite of American Travelers. American
and English Newspapers. Comfort and Satisfaction insured by the Personal Sn pen n Tend-
ance of the !>roprietor, M/r. TYSSFITST.
64
HOMBURGL
HOTEL BELLE -VUE.
Opposite the Knrsaal, near the Springs. _ H. ELLENBERGEB, Proprietor.
WILPBAT).
HOTEL^KLUMPP.
. "W:\I. IvLTJAIPP, Proprietor.
Tills First Class Hotel containing 45 Saloons and 235 Bedrooms, with a separate Breakfast
and new Reading and Conversation Rooms, as well as a Smoking Saloon, and a very extensive
and elegant Piniug-Room, an artificial Garden over the river is s mated opposite the Bath and
Conversation Houses, and in the immediate vicinity of the Promenade. It is celebrated for its
Elegant and Comfortable Apartments. ;o>d Cuisine and Cellar, and deserves its wide - spread
reputafoii a* an Kxrellent Hotel. Table d Mote at one and live o'clock; Breakfasts and Suppers
a la carte. Exchange uni ,-. Corres|>ondenl of the principal Hanking Houses of Ixmdon for the
payment of Circular Notes and letters of Credit, omnibuses of the Hotel to and from each
train; line 1'rivate Carr.ages when requested. Excellent Accommodation.
Heidelberg. Grand Hotel.
Splendid Situation. Magnificent View from 42 Balconies. O|ii.osiic liaihvay
Station and Promenade. English Iloim. 1 Comforts and Moderate Clia
Proprietor, EMIL THO-MA.
LATK MANAGER VICTORIA HOTEL. VENICE.
HOTEL KRONPRINZ,
OPPOSITE THE ROYAL PALACE.
JULIUS AMMOr, Proprietor.
65
Heidelberg. Hotel Prince Charles.
HOTEL NEAREST TO THE CASTLE eight minutes' walk only and two
minutes' walk from the Neckar Bridge. It has the view of the Ruins from nearly all its windows
and balconies. Lately considerably enlarged by a new wing, containing, besides a number of Bath-
Rooms, a splendid Dining-Room, Breakfast-Room, Reading- 1- com, and Smoking-Room. _^pj
This first-class Family Hotel patronized by their Royal Highnesses the Prince and Princess
of Wales and Prince Alfred is without question the largest and best situated Establishment in the
town for Families and Tourists who nre visiting merely the celebrated Castle, or for making a
longer stay, being near all the attractive points, and at the foot of the Castle.
The Hotel is conducted on the most liberal scale, under the personal superintendence of the
Proprietors, ;U-.ssrs. SOUOIER & ELLMEK.
The Nearest First-Class Hotel to the Station.
HOTEL SCHRIEDER.
Fine large Garden. Beautiful view of the Castle. First-class Kitchen and very good Wines.
Pension during the whole year. Light and Service not charged. Proprietor, WILH. BACK WWK.
66
BADEN-BADEN.
Old Renowned Alkaline Chlor, Sod, Springs of 44-69 C,
Chlor, Lithium Spring of Preponderous Contents,
NEW GRAND DUCAL BATHING ESTABLISHMENT,
"THE FREDEPxIC BATHS."
A model institntion, unique for its perfection and elegance. Tub Baths, Russian Vapor
Baths, Turkish Baths, Electric Baths, so-called " Vildbtider" (thermal water constantly
running. Sw:inminsr Baths, Rooms for Cold Water Treatment, Inhalation of Pul-
verized Mineral Water, Douches for the Larynx, Pneumatic Apparatus, Douches
of all Konns and Temperature, Medicinal Baths of every description. Private Medical
Institutions, with Thermal Baths; Pump-Room, with the "Mineral Waters of all the most
renowned Springs; Whey and Milk Cures; Spring Cures with the Juice of Herhs; Autumn
Cure* \vith excellent (ir:i| J >
|li- Conversation -House, with its splendid Concert, Ball, and
Reading KOOIIIM, Kestauraiit and Society Kooms, open throughout
the whole year. Grand Concerts. Symphony and Otuu te te S.jjier- : Special Concerts
by renowned artiMg. {Sal* J'ares, Reunions ; Children's Festivals. Splendid Orches-
tra (48 musicians), with solo players; three Concerts daily. Military Concerts. Operas
and Comedies. Ballet. Fireworks and Illuminations. Shooting and Fishinjr. Pigeon
Shooting. Grand Races. Educational Institution!* of hijrli order.
Baden-Baden, surrounded on all sides by luxuriunt pine and heech woods, offers
opportunities for ilu- most <-li;i rnii iiir walks and excursions. Excellent
Climate; Charming Situation, .'lean uiinual temperature, +7. 14 1C.
THE MUNICIPAL COMMITTEE.
CONNER, Presiding Mayor. TH. WEIH, Town Counsellor
BADEN-BADEN.
HOTEL DE LA COUR DE BADE.
BADISCHER HOP.
MAGNIFICENT, FIRST-CLASS KSTAB1.ISHMK.NT. \viih Ik-autiful (iurdens. I.an
Finest House in Every Respect. Not to be confounded with the Hotel de la Ville de Hade, nea"
the station. Mr. ZIKGLKlt, Proprietor.
BADEN-BADEN-HOTErBELLEVUE,
Beautifully Situated on the Alice de Liehtentluil, in the centre of a Fine Park.
Patronized by the Highest Families in Europe. Arrangements.
Mr. RIOTTE, Proprietor.
BADEN-BADEN.
HOTEL STEPHANIE.
Entrance of the Allee de Lichtenthul. in midst of Fine Grounds, dose to
Km-saal, Baths, &c. C. BREXNKK, Proprietor.
BADEFBADEir iI COURT PHOTOGRAPHER.
w. KL T XTZI:MI I.I,I:K,
FRIEDRICH-STRASSE, 1.
To the Left of the Conversationshaus, between the Theatre and Hotel Messmer.
C*'
Dl
HOTEL DE L'EUROPE, BADEN.
O. KAH, PROPRIETOR.
This house is situated in the finest position in Baden-Baden, immediately opposite the
Drinkhalle and Conversation- House. Splendidly furnished. Fine Wine -Cellar. Cuisine
not surpassed by any in Germany.
H A m:\-B8 \E.\.
HOLLAND HOTEL,
AND DEPENDENCE "AU BEAU-SEJOUR."
First-Class Establishment, with a beautiful Garden nearest the
Conversation-House and Frederics Baths.
Fixed moderate charges for everything. Excellent Cooking. Prize
Medals for Wines: Vienna, 1873, Philadelphia, 1876, <fcc.
Arrangements made for a prolonged stay.
A. ROESSLER, Proprietor,
HOTEL DE RUSSIE.
FIRST-CLASS HOUSE OF OLD STANDING,
Thoroughly renovated and refurnished. Beautiful situation on the
Promenade, near the Kursaal, in its own Garden, commanding a fine
view. Elegantly Furnished. Good Cuisine and Attendance.
A. & G. MOERCH, Proprietors.
68
HOTEL VICTORIA, BADEN-BADEN,
IT. G-ROBH*CTL<Z^ Proprietor.
This first class Hotel is beautifully situated in the immediate vii-inity of the promenade and
conversation bouse, and contains 110 "rooms and saloons for private families and single persons,
The table and wines arc the very Ix-st ; priivs moderate. Table d'hote, 5 o'clock.
ENGLISH SJ'OKKX I!V MA. THE SERVANTS.
TRIBERGK
Centre of the world-renowned Black Forest Railroad of Baden.
BLACK FOREST HOTEL.
LOUIS BIEBJNGER, Proprietor.
Opened 1877. The Grandest Establishment of the Black Forest First-Class
House, situated in the most beautiful part of the town and valley, in the immediate
vicinity of the Waterfall. Honored in 1877 by a visit of His Majesty the Emperor
of Germany. Most favorably known by all tourists. 900 feet above the sea. 80
most elegantly furnished Rooms and Saloons, with 26 balconies and 120 beds ;
large shady Terrace, with Pavilion ; spacious Breakfast and Dining Saloon ;
Smoking, Reading, and Conversation Rooms ; Warm, Cold, and Shower Baths on
every floor.
Opening of the Season on the 1st of May.
Table d'Hote at one and five o'clock. Omnibus at the Railway Station. Car-
riages for Excursions. English, French, and Italian Conversation. Carefully se-
lected Newspaper Literature. Waterfall illuminated by Bengal Lights once a week.
COPENHAGEN".
HOTEL KONGEN OF DENMARK.
THIS FIRST-CLASS HOTEL, much frequented by the highest class of English
and American travellers, affords first-rate accommodation for Families and Single
Gentlemen. Splendid situation, close to the Royal Palace, overlooking the King's
Square. Excellent Table d'Hote. Private Dinners. Best Attendance. Ki':i<ling-
Room. Hot Baths. Lift. English, French, German, and America?! newspapers.
All languages spoken. Very moderate charges. T/ie only Vienna Coffee-House.
R. KLUM, Proprietor,
Karlsruhe. HOTEL GERMANIA,
SITUATED 1 FEW MINUTES FROM THE KAILI AY STATION, 01 THE PUBLIC OAHDEJS.
This First-class Hotel is furnished with every modern comfort. 100 Rooms and Suites of
Apartments. Bed and attendance from 2 Marks. The whole of the house heated so as to insure
comfort to Winter Visitors, for whom also Special Arrangements are made. Batns; Lift. Omni-
buses at the Station. JOSEF LEERS, Proprietor.
69
KISSINGEN 'Baihs of).
HOTEL SANNER.
In a most beautiful position, with free outlook on
all sides.
Near the Bath Establishment, the Promenade, and
Springs.
120 Rooms, 20 Balconies, and Fire-proof Stairways.
Large, shady Ten-ace and beautiful Ground*.
Known as one of the best and most-frequented ho-
tels of Kissingen.
Excellent Cuisine and Attendance. Large Table
d'Hote and moderate pi-ices. Omnibus at Station.
ROBERT SCHMIDT, Proprietor.
KISSIIVGEN (Baths of).
HOTEL KAISERHOF,
First-Class House, in beautiful situation, opposite the Promenade,
and close to the Springs and Establishment of Baths.
Good Cuisine and Attendance. Arrangements made for a long
stay. Omnibus at Railway Station.
MUNICH.
MERK, JEWELLER,
13 ODEONSPLATZ
Every Variety at Wholesale Prices. Prizes and Decorations at several Exhibitions for Excel-
lence of Workmanship.
TYROL, AND THE SKIRT OF THE ALPS.
BY GEORGE E. WARING, JR.
Illustrated. 8vo. Cloth, $3.00.
Published toy HARPER fc BROTHKRS, 3STew York.
tW Sent by mail, pottage prepaid, on receipt of the price.
70
BTBASBUBO.
HOTEL
This rir-t-clns establishment modern construction, opposite the station, with a splendid view of the Vntfm nagt,
unites nil the l.,--t conditions of comfort and elegance. KebreM Cuitint. Taklt fJStt and Rt*a*ra*t a la Can,.
Genuine Wine* of the Bet Vintage.. Conversation nd Rending Rooms. Baths on all Floors. Perfected Lift. Mod-
erate Chiirfres. I. i 'ST?:RM ANN", formerly Co-proprietor and Director of the Hotel de Paru.
NUREMBERG.
Hotel zum Strauss lOstrich),
HOTEL DE L'AUTRUCHE,
First-Class House. N'cwly Huilt. 150 Rooms. Central situation near Churches,
Museums, Theatre, &c. Baths ami Curriai:-'-. Omnibus at Station.
Ki \ M U
.. Proprietors.
HOTEL DE BAVIEKE.
This First-Class and Superior Hotel, situated in the centre of the "town, close to the river, is
highly spoken of by English and American Travelers for its general comfort and moderate charges.
ENGLISH AND FOREIGN NEWSPAPERS.
Carriages in the Hotel. Omnibuses to and from each Train. English Church in the Hotel.
SERVICE EVERY SUNDAY.
MILAN.
ULRICH & CO.,
21 Via Bigli,
American and English Bankers;
Correspondents and Agents
OF THE FIRST BANKING-HOUSES OF EUROPE AND THE
UNITED STATES OF AMERICA.
HOTEL D'ANGLETERRE (Englischer Hof ).-PRAGUE.
PROPRIETOR, MR. F. HUTTIG.
This nrst-rte Establishment is much frequented by English travelers for its moderate
char-res, comfort, and cleanliness. It is sitiuued near the Railway Starion and Poct-ofljcu
Table d'hAte, 4 o'clock. Dinner ik la carte or at tixed price at any hour. English newspapers!
EiiirlWi and French spoken.
B. Somerfeld, Embroidery Manufacturer,
42 Lcipzig'cr Street, Berlin,
Has the greatest stock of finished and unfinished Embroideries. The new
rooms are furnished with a rich and tasteful stock of all articles in this branch,
which enables him to execute every order given.
72
NUREMBERG.
HOTEL WURTEMBERGER HOP.
FIRST-CLASS HOl'SE. with Garden, in a beautiful and commanding position, opposite the
Station, close to Churches. Museums, Post and Telegraph Office. Handsomely furnished Apart-
ments and Single Rooms, Baths, Carriages, Table d'Hote, &c. F. S. KERI.F.R. PROPRIETOR.
MUNICH.
STAINED CLASS
OF EVERY DESCRIPTION.
Jtiitiigltrjje ISnfglasnialtrri.
ROYAL BAVARIAN COURT MANUFACTORY.
Visitors to Munich are invited to inspect the chefs-
d'o3uvres, finished and in course of preparation.
23 Briennerstrasse, 23,
CLOSE TO THE 1M AXI1VCILI A.NSTR AS SK.
HERR F. X. / 1 I I I IK Director.
73
FOUR SEASONS HOTEL,
MUNICH.
This First-Class Hotel is situated ii< the new Maximilian Street, which is justly considered on
of the finest Streets in Germany, as well for its magnificent and grand buildings, as for its beaulifu 1
ornamental promenade. It is fitted up in a luxurious style, combining elegance and comfort, ;mc
possesses all the modern accomplishments of a first-rate establishment. The charges are moderaU
and fixed. AUG. SCHIMONHEIRS.
MUNICH.
1 Maximilian
Strasse,
CLOSE TO THE FOUR
SEASONS HOTEL.
FOUNDED 1806.
LONDON,
s. w.
17 Charles Street,
HAYMAKKET,
Close to Her Majesty's Theatre.
E. A. FLEISCHMANN'S
FINE ART GALLERY.
PROPRIETORS :
Messrs. A. BHGrNEB, G. SONTHEIMEK, and MAX SONTHEIMEE.
NK\V YORK AGEXT :
Mr. MAX HEKEMANN, 80& Pearl Street,
Permanent Exhibitions of Oil Paintings by the modern Continental Masters.
During the Summer Months a Special Exhibition at the Royal Odeou.
74
MUNICH-THE BAYERISCHER HOP,
Only Hotel in Munich Constructed for a First-class Hotel,
150 Rooms and Salons, entirely new or elegantly renovated. In the centre of the City on,
the Promenadoplatz. close to all Attractions. Meals and Wines for Moderate Charges. Hy-
draulic Lift; Large French Beds; Elegant Baths, with Shower-baths ; Telephone, &c., &c. Car-
riage; Omnibus at the Station.
OSCAR SEIF.
ROBERT THODE & CO,, American Bankers,
DRESDEN : WIlsdriiflTer-Strasse, >'o. l,in connection with the U.S. Consulate.
UNITED STATKS (JOVKKNMKNT Sc< uririr-. :,< well as Drafts on America, Ene-
liind, and France, boiurht and sold. Reading-Rooms fnrnished with English ;ind
American papers. Post-Office well attended to. Packages of all kinds forward-
ed to America. Travelers' Luggage received and stored.
CARL HILLER,
I. R. COURT PURVEYOR,
BERLIN,
Unter den Linden, 62, 63,
RESTAURANT OF FIRST CLASS.
BREAKFASTS. DINNERS. SUPPERS.
Berlin.- -Restaurant Strub.
33 UNTER DEN LINDEN.
CLOSE TO EOYAL PALACE, THEATRE, AND CENTRAL STATION.
Dinners at Fixed Prices and d la carte. Private Rooms, &c.
75
MUNICH.
HOTEL D'ANGLETERRE
(English Hotel Englischer Hof ).
FINE, FIRST-CLASS HOUSE,
Df THE CENTRE OF THE CITY.
SPECIALLY RECOMMENDED TO AMERICAN AND ENGLISH
TRAVELERS.
Every Comfort. Omnibus at the Station. Under the personal
supervision of tte
Proprietor, Mr. H. STRAUB.
llAMBURG.
STREIT'S HOTEL.
Tliis SUPERIOE FIRST-CLASS HOTEL for
FAMILIES AND GENTLEMEN
Is admirably situated on the Jung fernstieg, commanding ex
tensive views of the Alster Basin, and is most centrally situated
for visitors ; unrivalled accommodation, combining comfort and
elegance, with all the luxuries of home. This Hotel has for a
number of years secured a patronage of the highest respectabil.
ity, and Mr. Streit, the proprietor, will spare no endeavors to give
satisfaction. Table-d'Hote at 4 o'clock.
76
VICT
DRESDEN.
This first-rate Establishment,
SITUATED NEAE THE OBEAT PUBLIC PBOMENADE,
Combines Comfort with Elegance,
and has the advantage of possessing a
SPACIOUS AND BEAUTIFUL GARDEN.
Tiro Superior Table* a? Hole Daily.
Private Dinners at any Jioitr. J>uriiJ<j tin Wintei\
JSoard and Lodging at very moderate prices.
CARL WEISS, Proprietor.
DRESDEN. PROELSS' SONS,
Corner of See and Waisenhaus Strasse, No. 8,
OPPOSITE VICTORIA HOTEL,
MANTKAC] TUKUS OK
DAMASK TABLE-LIEN Al
KKKI' I.AUGKST STOrK-dl Tllr.llt
Ready-Made Liueu and Embroideries, Shirting> Huckabacks,
and Diaper Towellings.
77
BERLIN.
"
THE KAISERHOF,"
On the Wilhelmsplatz and Ziethenplatz,
GRANDEST HOTEL OF FIRST RANK IN BERLIN.
LEIPZIG-HOTEL HAUFFE.
FIRST
Madame- WE. HAUFFE, Proprietor.
LEIPZIG. HOTEL HELLER,
ZUM BAMBERGER HOP, KOMUSPLATZ.
Near Stations, Post -Office, Theatre, and Museum.
RICHARD HELLER, Proprietor, also of Hotel I)a?id in Halle.
LEIPZIG. HOTEL DE ROME.
Fine position on the Promenade, near Theatre, Post-Office, and
the Dresden, Berlin, Hamburg, Cologne, and Frankfort Stations.
. OERTGE, Proprietor.
LEIPZIG.
First and most Elegant Restaurant in Leipzig.
WELL KNOWN FOR EXCELLENT CUISINE AND WINES.
LEIPZIG!-.
HOTEL"SEDAN.
First-Class, New House,
WITH EVERY COMFORT.
NEIT TO THE THDRINGIAN, AND CLOSE TO OTHER STATIONS,
ENGLISH AND FRENCH BEDS.
C. W. SCHMIDT, Proprietor.
CASSEL. HOTEL DU IVORD.
First-Class. Opposite the Station.
H. AXMANN, Proprietor.
CasseL ROYAL HOTEL.
FINE POSITION, OPPOSITE THE STATION.
First-Class House. Excellent Restaurant, and Every Comfort.
H. MEYER iProprietor.
HOTEL PRINCE FRIEDRICH WILHELM,
Beautiful Position on Square of Same Name, near Station. First rinss. HI. rant House, with
Garden and every Modern convenience. C. ISKRLOH, Proprietor.
HANOVER. UNION HOTEL. First Class
F. VOLKEKS Proprietor.
PYRMONT (Baths of) -GRAND HOTEL DES BAINS,
BROTHERS, Proprietors.
79
HANOVER
HOTEL
This House is situated near the Station, and contains the comforts and luxuries of a First-
Class Hotel. Terms moderate. Special arrangements made for a lengthened stay. Fine, large
Garden. Telephone. Messrs. CHRIST, Proprietors.
HOTEL "HAMBURGER HOP."
Magnificent. Lately Opened.
HOTEL OF FIRST RANK ON THE JDIGFERSTIEG,
With Beautiful View of both the Alster Harbors.
Comfort surpassed by that of no House in Germany. Travellers'
and Baggage Lifts. Bath-Rooms, Adjoining Rooms, and Reading,
Ladies', and Smoking Rooms. Winter Garden. Dining-Room dec-
orated by the first Hamburg Artists.
200 noons AND SALOONS.
Charges Moderate. Table d'Hote and Restaurant a la carte.
C. UHL, Director.
80
CONTINENTAL HOTEL.
Opened 20th May, 1881.
First-class Hotel, close to the Royal The;itiv nnd Central Railway Station, in the best part of the To\m,nrronnded
by Promenades. Hydraulir Lift, 'l.'iil K..m with every , ,,mfort. Urge and well-aerated Dining-Room. Ladies',
R'eadinir.and Smoking Saloons. I'ri> vs in ei'-h Room, from 4 J ink. 50 pf., including Light and Service. Balconies and
splendid view. Exquisite cooking, i; ..... I Wines. Comfortable Bath-Rootu on each floor. Restaurant in the Parii
^ _ Carl Fits.
HANOVER. HOTEL DE RUSSIE.
This first-class Hotel is beautifully situated opposite the Railway Station and Post-Office, and
in the healthiest part of the City and in the centre of large gardens. The Proprietor and Pro-
prietress have been for several years in England and France, and mnke the comfort of F.nglish
and American Families their special study. The prices are very moderate, and the servants of
the establishment are specially trained to be civil and obliging to visitors
C. PICKIISKKG, Propri. tor.
HAMBURG
First-class House, of old reputation, patronized by II. It. II. the Prince of Wales, and distin-
guished Knglish families In most Hi\iulif.il Location on the Alster-Hassin. IN) Rooms ami
Saloons, provided with every Comfort ol Modern Times. Baths, etc. Hydraul c Lift. Table
d'Hotc at 4 oViock.
Messrs. BUF.TT8CHNK1DKB & ItAMMJ, Proprietors.
HAMBURG-HOTEL MOSER.
New an<l Beautifully Furnished, in the Kiniv-t Quarter of the Town opi osile the K\change and
the Alster Bassin On the ({round lloor are the T'ltilf. d' Hot'- Dininu' Koom. ''ft, /,'
Reading and Conversation Kooms, with all I'.cst Newspapers. Cold and Warm Baths. Cood Ser-
vice. Moderate Prices. .T. ('. M < >^ I-'. K'. I !<>, ,,-i< -t ..].
.-OTE (JEKMAX1A.
Corner of the Bcrg-cdorfcr and 2d Klostcrsti assc.
ar Iterlin And Paris Stationn and Piers of the I raiiHatlantic Ste.-xtners. Quite Vew.
Comfortably Furnished lloonis. Caflt-Rrttaurmt, Table. d'Hbt<- at '2'M>. C,IH\ Attendance.
Moderate Charges. English, French, aud Swedish spokea Q SCHILLER Proo
81
of Austria Bailf ay.
ONLY SLEEPING-CAR ROUTE BETWEEN GERMANY AND
AUSTRIA, HAMBURG, BERLIN, DRESDEN,
AND PRAGUE,
TO
From Hamburg, via Stendal, Roderau, Riesa, Dresden,
Lissa, Kolin, Deutschbrod, and Znaim.
From Berlin, via Roderau, Riesa (here joining mail from
Hamburg), Dresden, Lissa, Kolin, Deutschbrod, and Znaim.
From Dresden, via Lissa, Kolin, Deutschbrod, and Znaim.
From Prague (joining the train at Lissa junction), via
Lissa, Kolin, Deutschbrod, and Znaim.
TIME AND FARES.
(Exclusive of first-class railway fare.)
From Hamburg to Vienna, 21 h. 29 m., 16 marks;
Berlin to Vienna, 15 h. 12 m., 12 marks; Dresden to
Vienna, 11 h. 44 m., 6 marks.
TELEGEAPHIM FOE BEETHS,
From Leipzig telegraph to Dresden, and join the train there ;
from Prague telegraph to Dresden, and join the train at Lissa.
EOUES OF DEPAETUEE,
From Vienna for the North at 8.30 P.M. ; leave Hamburg for
South at 11 A.M. ; leave Berlin at 5.17 P.M. ; leave Dresden at
8.45 P.M. ; leave Prague at 11 P.M.
See map and text.
> T . B. Further information supplied on addressing station-
masters, or the
DIRECTION
K. K. PRIV. OESTERR. NORDWESTBAHN, VIENNA.
82
HOTEL DE SAXE.
Patroni/ed by Imperial Family of Austria. Beautiful Part of Town
(Hybernstrasse), close to Dresden and Vienna Stations.
Most Elegantly Furnished, with Exceptionally Moderate Prices.
V. m;\i:s. Proprietor.
PRAGUE. HOTEL VICTORIA.
New First-class Family Hotel. English Landlady.
CORNER JUNGMANN'S AND PALACKYSTRASSE.
O. & H. WELZER, Proprietors.
HOTEL GOLDEN ANGEL (ZUM GOLDENEN ENGELX
Zeltnerstreet (Old Town). F. STICKEL, Proprietor.
This Hotel is situated at no great distance from the Terminus of the Railway to Dresden and
Vienna, the Post and Telegraph Offices, the Custom-house, the Theatre, and other public huild-
ings. Warm and Cold Baths. English and French newspapers.
CARLSBAD.
On the "Neuen Gartenzeilstrasse." Open all the year. This Hold, situ-
ated next to the City Park, and only 4 minutes from all the Mineral Springs,
commands a splendid view of the Mountains, and is recommended to families
and travellers in general. Large dining-rooms and shady garden. Good
German and French Cooking. Moderate charges. The Proprietor, ANT.
\\IKSIXGER, has left his hotel, Drei Fasanen, on account of his increas
ing business in the above Hotel.
Cartsy,-RESTllUfilillTClHlflAUS and STAOTPARK,
The Two First class, Host Restaurants of Carlsbad Favnriie Rendezvous anil Dining Resort
of Visitors. The t'urliiiiis Restaurant contains the /;/ Complete Set of Foreign Nettspipcrs in
Carlsbad. The Stadtpark Restaurant, in the Town 1'ark, is a lovely place to past* the evening.
Mr. EROP. Proprietor.
LAUSANNE GRAND HOTEL RICHE MONT.
Hc'uutif'ul Sunny Position on the Hill.
Arrangements made for the Season.
RITTTCR-WOLBOLID, Proprietor.
83
TEPLITZ -SCHON VU (BATHS OF).
BOHEMIA.
Hot Alkali-Saline Springs (26-39 R.), Known and Celebrated for Cen-
turies. The Cure goes on during the Whole Year.
SUMMER SEASON BEGINS MAY 1st.
Bathing Resort of First Rank, with Magnificent Establishment ;
Mud-baths. Exportation of own and other waters under the inspection of a
Medical Control.
Wonderful in its unsurpassed Effects against dlout. Rheumatism, Scrof-
ula in all Forms, Neuralgia, and other Nervous Diseases ; incipient Linn-
bago ; brilliant Results in Effects from Shot and Sword Wounds, and after
Fracture of Bones, in Stiffness of Joints, and Curvatures.
Beautiful, thoroughly protected Position in a broad Valley, surrounded
by the Mountain Forests of the Erz and Mittel Ranges. Mild, even Climate.
Magnificent Park and Garden Promenades, Concerts of the Town Bath-Or-
chestra, and the Austrian Military Band. Reunions, Theatre with Operatic
Representations, etc. Ball-Room, Reading-Room, Churches of various Creeds,
Two Railway Stations.
Sufficient Accommodation assured by the Kaiserbad, the Steinbad, and the
Stadtbad in Teplitz, the Schlangenbad and the Neubad in Schonau, and numer-
ous Private Houses.
dumber of Visitors in Teplitz-Schonau in 1883, over 30,000.
All information given and lodgings secured in Teplipz by the Bader-
inspectorat of Teplitz, and in Schonau by the Biirgermeisteramt of Schonau.
Season from May 1st to Sept. 30tli. Direct Railway Communication
with the Principal Cities of the Continent.
Alkali-Saline Ferrugiuoxis Waters, of strengthening Iron with most easily dissolv-
able Salts. Ferruginous Carbonic Acid Baths, the most healing of all known Mud-
baths, Gaseous Carbonic Acid Baths, and Vapor Baths. Over 500 Rooms in 4 Kle-
gant Bath Establishments. In Poverty of the Blood, and all Consequent Dlsen'^.
Weaknesses, especially of Digestion and of the Abdomen. Women's Diseases, in Mus-
culnr Complaints, Nervous Diseases, Chronic Catarrh of all Mucous Mem-
branes. Chronic Sweats and Loss of Strength following any Disease, these Waters
are most Kmcacious.
Magnificent Mountain Air, elegant Hotels and Private Houses, with over 4000
Rooms, moderate Prices, large Hall, Conversation and Reading Rooms, fine
Town Orchestra, Concerts, Theatre, Reunions. Balls. Numerous Excursions.
9OOO Guests. Churches of all Creeds. Mineral Water of all Springs carefully expedited
to any destination. Further information supplied by the
Biirg-crmeistcramt in Franzcnibad.
V E V E Y.
HOTEL MONNET,
OR TROIS COURONNES.
T. SCHOTT, Proprietor.
VIENNA.-"HOTEL METROPOLE."
UI.\(iSTKAK. Kit A \Z-JOSKFS-Q I Al.
FIRST-CLASS AND BEST-SITUATED HOTEL.
3OO well - furiiKlu'd Bedrooms and Sillinjr - Hooins (from 1 11 upwards ).
l!i :ul inu- KO..III s'i|i|.lied with the Lnri'l'iii T'm-f. Gatigntutft M-'fstngrr, and Anicric'n
I ni. -ami I'oh 'graph-i MBco in (lit- Hold. Arrangements e.m be made lor a
protracted stay at moderate prices. Omniliusos to aud from tlic Station
L. SPEISER, Manager.
TfiCHL CA.USTBIA.X
HOTEL BAUER.
Magnificent View over Town and Country. Ijirge Park. Fir Forest. Moderate Trees.
gniuYent Structure. 10 .Minutes from Station. Baths (also Sulphur ones) in House.
6 35
GMUNDEN (UPPER AUSTRIA).
On the Shores of the Charming Traun Lake (Tratmsee),
STATION OF THE ELIZA BKTH- WESTERN RAILWAY, AND THE
SALZKAMMKRU IT RAILWAY.
SKA so* Fuow .ia \B; i to OCT. i.
CURES. Saline, Mother I^ye, Pine Needle, Mud, Sulphur, Shower, Va-.
por, and Lake Baths. Whey Cure, and Mineral Waters of all Countries. In the
Hotel Bellevue Garden an Inhalation Chamber with Spray of Brine. Fir, and Pine
Steam, and a Pneumatic Chamber for 6 persons, with Compressed Air, the Finest
Establishment of the kind in the Summer Resorts of Austria, and the Best Ilemedy
for Shortness of Breath, Kmphysis, Chronic Bronchial Catarrh, Nervous
Asthma, Slimy Coating of (he Lungs, and Poverty of the Blood. Swim-
ming and cold Bath House, and Gymnasium. Cold-Water Cure.
COMFORT AND CONVENIENCES. Music twice daily, partly on the !>
planade, partly in the Cursaloii. Every Saturday Dancing Parties in the Curxaal
without Entrance Fee. Concerts, Tombolas, and other Entertainments Frequently.
Theatre. All Newspapers in the Reading-Room. Finest Walks and Excursions.
Frequent Pleasure Parties on the Lake with Steamers and Gondolas. Splendid
Hotels, numerous Villas and lodgings. All Information supplied by the
CTJR-COMITE, Gmunden.
GMOKDET(TRAUN LAKE).-HOTEL AUSTRIA.
AT THE STEAMBOAT LANDING,
With Large, Shady Terrace on the Lake, in llp.-iittif'iil Position. Beautiful House and Well-
riiniislied. Table d'Hote. Pension liy tli.- Week, from : fl. up. Saline. Pine Needle, and
Sluwer Baths. Lift. Steamboats la:id at t!ie. Hotel Pier. Omnibus at Station.
FRANZ SCHECK, Proprietor.
S A L Z B Uli Gr.
Hotel de 1'Europe and Pension Jung.
OPPOSITE THE RAILWAY STATION,
In the,jniddle of a Large Park with a superb v ew over the Hochgebirg. Magnificent Summer
I ,.-<,rt, Moderate Charges. Uooms from 1 florin upwards. G> JUNO, Proprietor.
IIEIU-lim HSiUIEKIBCI IIF.
fii'st-Olass. Close to Graben, St. Stephan's Cathedral, and the Danube.
AUSTRIAN COURT HOTEL.
J. HANISCH, Proprietor.
HAMPER'S PHRASE-BOOK.
Harper's Phrase-Bonk ; or. Hand-Book of Travel-Talk for Travellers and Schools. Being a Guide
to ConverwU'OM in Knglish. French. German, and Italian, on a New and Improved Method.
Intended In afoinpany "Harper's Hand-Rook for Travellers. " By W. I'KMHKOKK FETRIDOE,
assisieil by Professors of Heidelberg University. With concise and explicit Rules for the Pro-
nunciation of the different Languages. Square 4to, Flexible Cloth, $1.50.
HARPER & BROTHERS, NEW YORK.
t3f~ Sfnt. carriage j>aid, to any part nf the United States or Canada, on receipt of the price,
86
GOLDEN LAMB HOTEL
(COLDENES LAMM),
PRATERSTRASSE.
N. B. Do not confound with Hotel of Same Name on the Wieden. Situated in most healthy
part of Austrian capital, in the Pruterstrasse, near Fashionable Promenades. Commands fine view
of Danube and Quays, close to Hungarian and Turkish Steamer Pier, and Northern and North-
Western Railway Stations. 300 Elegantly Furnished Rooms. Suites of Comfortable Apartments.
Excellent Cuisine. English and American Journals. FIU.XZ HAUPTMAXN, Proprietor.
YIEKCTA AND PAEIS.
AUGUST KLEIN.
FIRST MANUFACTORY IN THE WORLD OF
Fancy Bnnze, Leather, Ivory, and Tortoise-M Goods ;
Portfolios and all sorts of Articles of Russian Leather;
Carvings of Every Material ;
GREAT ASSORTMENT OF
Elegant Articles for the Use of Travellers.
ALL ARTICLES -manufactured in this world-renowned
establishment are sold at
FIXED WHOLESALE PRICES.
Manufactory, VIENNA, 6 Andreasgasse.
I3EPOTS:
VH'NN \. No. -so Graben, only;
PARIS, No. 6 Boulevard de Capacities.
87
VIENNA.
Sacher's Hotel de TOpera,
A I (ISTOERSTRASSE, No. 4, opposite Hie I. and R. Opera.
Most elegant and frequented quarter of tlie capital. Near the Opera. Ring, Treasury. Muse-
ams of Natural History. Numismatics, and Antiquities, the Belvedere Picture-Gallery, Ambraser
Collection, the Volksgarten, Stadt (Town), and Rathhaus (Town Hall), Parks. &c.
12O Koonis from 1 fl. up; Apartments from 6 fi. up.
First Restaurant in Austria. Breakfasts, Dinners, and Suppers d la cttrte. Table d'Hote,
3 fl. Omnibus at Stations.
ED. SACHER, I. and R. Purveyor and Proprietor.
HARPER'S PERIODICALS.
Per Year:
HARPER'S MAGAZINE |4 00
HARPER'S WEEKLY 4 00
HARPER'S BAZAR 4 00
HARPER'S YOUNG PEOPLE 2 00
HARPER'S FRANKLIN SQUARE LIBRARY, One
Number each week for One Year 10 00
ge Free to all Subscribers in the United States or Canada.
HARPER'S FRANKLIN SQUARE LIBRARY : a weekly publication,
containing works of Travel. Biography, History, Fiction, and Poetry, at
prices ranging from 10 to 25 cents per number. Full list of liar /^ / '.<
Frnnklin Square Library will be furnished gratuitously on application to
HARPER & BROTHERS.
Remittances should bj made by Post-Office Money Order or Draft, to
avoid risk of loss. Addi '
HARPER & BROTHERS, Franklin Square, N. Y.
HARPER'S CATALOGUE, of between three and four thousand vol-
umes, mailed on receipt of Ten Cents in Postage Stamps.
88
ADELSBERG
THE GROTTO.
SEE TEXT, page 731.
"'
BUDAPEST (HUNGARY).
HOTEL DE L'EOROPE.
First-Class House. Patronized by H. Bb*tl.
the Prince of Wales, H. R. H. the ,omte tie
Paris, H. R. H. the Due de Nemours, H. S II.
the Duke of Coburg, &c., &c.
ON THE DANUBE.
MR. JOSEPH RAINER, I'j-oprietor.
89
LUCERNE, SWITZERLAND.
HOTEL SCHWEIZERHOF,
WITH ITS DEPENDENCIES,
AND
LUZERNERHOF.
First-class Establishments ; splendid position on the
Lake ; view of the Righi and Pilate. Apartments for Fam-
ilies and Tourists. Restaurant; Table d'Hote a la carte.
90
HAUSER BROTHERS, Proprietors.
GRAID HOTEL DE LA PA1X,
GENEVA, SWITZERLAND.
This new and magnificent House,
situated immediately in front of Mont
Blanc, on the margin of Lake Geneva,
lias recently been taken by Mr. FRITZ
WEBER, so long and favorably
known as proprietor of the Hotel Na-
tional. It is replete with every comfort,
aad has for many years been patronized
by the first American travellers. It is
a most charming Winter Residence.
*
Terms Moderate, anil Special Prices Made for a Long Stay.
01
SCHAFFHAUSEN NEUHAUSEN RHINEFALL.
SCHWEIZERHOF HOTEL.
The SoiiwEizrRiioF (1S71, greatly enlarged) is known to American travelers as one of the
best hotels in Switzerland. Its position, opposite the celebrated "Falls of the Rhine," is
magnificent. Fine Park and Garden. Unrivaled panoramic view of the Alps. Healthy
climate. Church Service. Fair Tront Fishing. Prices moderate. Arrangements for Fam-
ilies. Hotel Omnibuses at Schaffhausen and Nenhaiiseii.
BASLE.
HOTEL DES TROIS EOIS (THEEE KINGS HOTEL)
One of the best Hotels in Europe. Omnibus at all trains. Mr. PLUCK. Proprietor.
92
INTERLAKEN.
GRAND HOTEL VICTORIA.
Magnificent first-class family hotel ; the best situated at Interlafcen.
4OO BEDS. ELEVATOR.
/'
Special arrangements made for a stay of some time,
ED. RUCHTI, Proprietor.
GRAND HOTEL RITSGHARD.
250 BEDS
ED. RUCHTI.
ZURICH.
HOTEL HABIS.
FIRST-CLASS HOTEL,
OPPOSITE THE RAILWAY STATION.
And every modern comfort for English and American travellers, combined
with moderate charges. Liberal terms for lengthened stay or winter
pension. Address,
HABISBEUTINGEB,
Proprietor.
93
AUSTRIAN LLOYD, 1885, Trips of the Steamers
To TUIESTE.
To ATHENS (Piit.t:r~)
To COXriTANTlNOPLE.
To SMYRNA.
From
TRIESTE.
Every Saturday at noon,
via Syra.
Arrival following
Thursday at 8 A.M.
Every second Thursday
from 'Dec. 89 at 4 P.M.,
direct by Corfu and Pa-
tras. Arrival following
Wednesday at 3 P.M.
Every Saturdav at noon.
Arrival fol towing
Friday at 8 A.M.
Every Saturday noon, via
Syra. Arrival following
"Thursday at ) A.M.
Every Tuesday at 6 P.M.,
by Fiume. Brindisi, and
Syra.
Arrival second Thursday
at A.M.
From
ATHENS 1 1'iii.trsj.
Every Saturday at8 P.M.,
riaSvra. ArrivaLfaUpw-
ing Thursday at 6 P.M.
Every seccd Saturday
from Jan. 7tl at 6 A.M.,
direct l>v Patra>.
Arrival folloWlfic
Thursday at midnight.
Every Tuesday t 8 P.M.,
via Svra. Arrival follow-
ing" Friday at 8 A.M.
Every stcond Thursday
from Jan. 5th at 10 A.M.,
direct.
Arrival following
Thursday at 10 A.M.
Every Tuesday
at 8 P.M., via syra.
Arrival
following Thursday
at A.M.
From
CONSTANTINOPLE.
Every Fridav at 5 P.M.
ArriVal
following Thursday
at 6 P.M. '
Every Friday at 5 P.M.,
ria Svra, Arrival follow-
ing'Monday al 8 A.M.
Erery second Saturday
from DM. 3Ut S P.M.,
direct. Arrival following
Friday at 4 P.M.
Everv Thursday
at" 4 P.M.
Arrival following
Saturday at 3 A.M.
From
SMVHNA.
Every Saturday at 4 P.M.,
via Syra. Arrival follow-
ing tbunday at 6 P.M.
Every Saturday at 4 P.M.,
by Syra, Brihdisi, and
Fitting. Arrival second
Monday at 4 P.M.
Every Saturday at 4 P. M. .
via Syra.
Arrival following
Monday at 8 A.M.
Every Saturday
at 3 P.M.
Arrival following
Monday at 2.30 A.M.
From
BEYKOUT.
Every Wednesday, ria
Alexandria. Arrival
second Monday at 1 1 A.M.
Every second Monday
from Jan. id at 1 A.M.,
via Smyrna and Syra.
Arrival second Thursday
at 6 P.M.
Every second Monday
from Jan. 5d at t P.M.,
ria Smyrna and Svra.
Arrival Mt*wm(
Monday at 8 A.M.
Every second Monday
from Jan. Sd at 7 P.M.
Arrival
following Monday
at 2.30 A.M.
Every second Mondar
from Jan. M all I'.M.
Arrival
following Krr.lay
at 11 A.M.
From
ALEXANDRIA.
Every Tuesday it 5 P.M.
Mouday at 11 A.M.
Everv second Tuesdav
from Jun.lvth at P.M..
Arrival following Hot
day at S A.M.
Every second Friday from
Dec. 30 at 11 A.M., ria
Syria, 5*mvrna, sin! Svni.
Arrival second Monday
at 8 A.M.
Everv second Tuesday
from Jan. mill at 6 P.M.
Arrival following
Monday at 2.3U A.M.
Every second Fridav from
Dec.iO at 11 A.M'., ria
Svrm. Arrival second
Xlondayat 2.30 A.M.
Every second Tnesday
from Jan. 10th at 6 P.M.
Arrival following
Friday at 9.8U A.M.
Every second Friday
from Dec,"! H A.M.,
ria Svria. Arrival fol-
lowing" Friday at 11 A.M.
From
POUT-SAID.
Every Saturday morning,
via Alexandria and Corfu.
Arrival second
Monday at 11 A.M.
Every secoad Saturday
via Alexandria, .Smyrna)
and Svra. Arrival" sec-
ond Thursday at 6 P.M.
Every second Saturday
fromUec. Slat ft P.M., via
Syria, Smyrna, and Syra.
Everv second Saturday
from "Jan. 7th at noon,
and Syra.
Arrival second Monday
at 8 A.M.
Every second Saturday
from Dc. 31 at 5 I'.M".
via Syria.
Everv second Saturday
from Jan. It,, at noon,
via Alexandria.
Arrival second Monday
at 3.30 A.M.
Everv second Saturday
from Dec. Slut .i I'.M".
,-ia Svria. Arrival fol-
lowing Friday at 11 A.M.
Every second Saturday
from Jan. :th at noon,
ria Alexandria. Arrival
following Friday
at 9.3(1 A.M.
From
SALON1CA.
Every second Wednesday
from Jan.4th it 4 P.M..'
direct, or via Piraeus.
Arrival second Thursday
at night.
Every second Wednvlnv
from Jan. 4th at 4 P.M."
Arrival
following Friday
at 4 P.M.
Every second Sundav
from Jan. Sth nt s A.M.
Arrival
following Thursday
at 10 A.M.
Every second Wednesday
from" Jan. 4th at 4 I'.M.,'
ri.i Pira-us and Svra.
Arrival second Thursday
at 9 A.M.
Every second Snndav
from Jan. Sth nt > A Si.,
via Constantinople.
Arrival following
Saturday at 3 A.M.
94
stween Ports mentioned below, 1885, AUSTRIAN LLOYD.
To 1IKVKOI 1
To AI.EXAMUtlA.
To POUT-SAID.
To SAI.OMCA.
Every i* Jan. fttli
at nrK>n, no Alexandria. Arrival
Mcond Monday at 4.M A.M.
Every secon.l Sstur.lay from Jan.
'iiu noon,*i Svr.-i an-: -
Arrival sec'd Wednesday . 1 A.M.
Every second Friday from Dtc. 30
at noon. via Alexandria. Arrival
second Tuesday at 9.30 A.M.
Every Friday at noon.
Arrival following
Thursday at 6 A.M.
Every Friday at noon,
via Alexandria.
Arrival
second Saturday
at S AM.
Every second Saturday
.roui "Dec. 41 at noon, ria
Syra and Plrsraa.
Arrival following
Saturday at 8.30 A.M.
Every secca/1 Thursday
from IVc.il at 4 P.M.
Arrival second
Saturday at 8.30 A.M.
Every second Tuesday from
Jan. 10th at 8 P.M.. riu Svra
and Smyrna. Arrival following
Wednesday at i A.M.
Every second Tuesday from Jan.
3d t * P.M.. ria Syra, Smyrna,
second Monday at 4.30 A.M.
Every second Tuesday from
Jan. 3d.t,I'.M
lowing Tuesday at 7.30 A.M.
Even- eond Tuesday from
Jan', loth , it H 1
Arrival following Suudav
t 6 A.M.
Everv second Tuesday from
Jan. 10th tl P.M., via Syra
ond Friday at S. 44 A.M.
Everjr second Tuesday from
Jan. Sd ' " l'.M..naSyrt..
Smyrna, and Alexandria.
Arrival second Saturday
at & A.M.
Every second Thursday
from Jan. Mb at 10A.M.
Arrival
following Saturday
at 8.30 A.M.
Everv second Thundav from
Dec. at 4 P.M. Arriva!
following Wednesday at 5 A.M.
Every second Thursday from
Jan.SU ' * P.M.."ri.
Alexandria. Arrival
second Monday at 4.3U A.M.
Every second Thursday
from 'Jan. 5th t 4 P.M.
Arrival following Tuesday
at 1.30 A.M.
Every second Thursday
from Dec. S tt4 P.M..,' .
Svna. Arrival aecond
"Sunday at 6 A.M.
Every second Thursday from
Uec.' at 4 P.M. Arrival
secoua Friday at 8.46 A.M.
Every seaKnd Thursday
from Jan. 5th at 4 P.M.. i,a
Alexandria. Arriva]
second Saturday at S A.M.
Every second Saturday
from'l^v. 01 at S P.>f.
Arrival following
Tuesday at 3 P.M.
Every necond Saturday fr.> M
Dec. 31 at noon. Arrival
following Wednesday at 5 A.M.
Every second Saturday from
Jan. 7lh at 4 P.M.'. ria
second Monday at 4 S' A.M.
i very second Saturd iv
from Jan. 7lh at 4 P.M.
Arrival following Tuesday
at 7.30 A.M.
Everv second Saturday
from Dec. 31 ..i
\rriv.il second
Sund.-iy at li A M.
nd Saturday from
Dec. 31 at noon. Arrival f..|-
luwlngFridnyatP.45A.il.
Every second Saturday
from Jan. 7th at 4 P.M. .Via
Alexandria. Arrival fol-
lowing Saturday at 5 A.M.
Every second Saturday
fr..m "Dec. 31 at 4 P.M..
x'a Syr* and Piraeus.
Arrival
following Saturday
at 8.30 A.M.
Every second Wednesday
from' Jan. 4th MI T 1>.M'.
Arrival following Sunday
at 6 A.M.
Everv second Wednesday
from'jan. llth at 7 A.M.
Arrival following Sunday
at 6 A.M.
Every aecond Wednesday
from" Jan. 4th at T A ,\f
Arrival fallowing
Friday at *.45 A.M.
Fverv second Wednesday
from Jan. llili at 7 A.M.
Every second Monday
from Jan. Sd at 7 P.M.,
ria Smyrna, Svra, and
Pirwus." Arrival third
Saturday at 8.30 A.M.
Every second Monday
from Jan. id at 7 P.M..
Friday at 8.30 A.M.
Diirdau. Arrival tl.ir.l
Tuesday at 3 :
Every second Friday from
Dec. 30 at 11 .VM.
Arrival following Monday
at 4.3(1 A.M.
Every swond Friday from
Jan. 6th at 9 A.'M.
Arrival following Tuesday
at 9.30 A.M.
Every Friday morning.
Arrival
following day at & A.M.
Even- second Tuesday
from Jan. 10th
at 6 P.M., ria Smyrna,
Syra, and Pineiis.
Arrival
second Saturday
at 8.50 A.M.
Every second Saturday from
"Dec-.il at S P.M.
Arrival following Monday
at 4.30 A.M.
Every second Sunday from
Jan. 8th at noo'n.
Arrival following Tuesday
at 9.30 A.M.
Every second Saturday
from 'Jan. 7th at noon.
Arrival following day
at 6 A.M.
Every second Saturday
from 'Dec. 31 at 10 A.M.
Arrival following day
at A.M.
Every second Saturday
via Alexandria, Smyrna,
Svra, and Pira?u's.
Arrival
in 14 davi (Saturday)
at 8'.30 A.M. '
Ever}- second Wednesday from
Jan. 4th at 4 P.M., rt'a Pirtrui.
Svra. and Smyrna. Arrival in S
weeks (Wednesday) at & A.M.
F.v-rj- second Sunday from
Jan. 8th at - A.M.. eta Con-
stantinople and Smyrna. Arri-
val second Wednesday at 5 A.M.
Every second Wednesday
from Jan. 4th at 4 P.H..M
Pirn-tH, Syra, and Smyrna.
Arrival" third Sunday
t 6 A.M.
Every second Sanday from
Jan. Btb at * A.M'.. na
O>nitantlnople ai.d Syria.
Arrvnl in 14 days
i Sundaw) at < AM.
Every second vrW.netdav
fr p. /an. 4th at 4 P.M. .via
-, ra. and Smyrna.
Arrival third Friday
at 8.4f. A.M.
Evtrv second Sunday from
Jan. Mh at 8 A.M'., vi'a
Constantinople aud Syria.
Arrival second Friday
at -.4-=. A.M.
95
INCORPORATED BY ROYAL CHARTER 1840.
UNDER CONTRACT WITH HER MAJESTY'S GOVERNMENT.
INDIA, CHINA, AND AUSTRALIAN MAIL PACKETS
Weekly from London (Royal Albert Docks), with Passengers and Specie, to the Mediterranean,
Egypt, Aden, and Bombay.
Weekly from Venice and Brindisi to Alexandria, Aden, and Bombay.
Fortnightly from London (Royal Albert Docks), with Passengers and Specie, to Ceylon, Ma-
dras, Calcutta, Straits. China. Japan, Australia, and New Zealand.
SPECIAL CHEAP RETURN TICKETS.
For INDIA and CEVLON-
To Bombay, Calcutta, Madras, J Available for 3 months from departure )
From Venice
and back.
Available
via London,
Available
via I/>nd<m,
t>tk ways.
Clan.
180
90
95
100
110
105
120
110
130
105
115
Clan.
45
60
65
50
55
55
65
65
75
65
IK
Clou.
95
100
105
115
110
125
115
135
105
115
Clou.
60
55
60
55
60
60
70
70
80
55
65
1*
90
100
105
110
120
115
130
120
150
105
115
Clou.
j55
60
65
60
65
65
75
75
86
55
65
Do for 6 months
Do. Do.
Do. for 12 mouths
For the STRAITS SETT
To Singapore and Penang
Do Do
PLEMENTS
TV far 1 ? mnnth*
For CHINA and JAPAN
TV. .!.,_ v ., . ' ( Available for 9 months from departure )
Do
To Shanghai and Yokohama. ..
Do. Do.
For AtSTRALIA-
To King George's Sound, Glen-
elg Melbourne Sydney
Do. for 9 months
Do. for 12 months
( Available for 9 months from departure )
Do. Do.
Return Tickets to the Mediterranean, available for Three Months, are also issued.
LONDON to MALTA and back 22 IDs. I LONDON to GIBRALTAR and back 15.
Special Circular Tickets, giving varying routes and combinations, are also issued, to meet the tastes and requirements
of Tourists and others visiting the East.
Fleet of the Peninsular and Oriental Steam Navigation Company.
&M *$-
Commander. "*" " i!<
lonnatje. jj p
1. ROME G.F.Cates 6013 6000
2. CARTHAGE G. N. Hector, R.N.R... 5013 5000
3. VALETTA J.Orman 4911 5000
4. MASSILIA S. D. Shallard 4908 5000
6. PARRAMATTA ..W.D.Anderson 4759 4000
6. BALI.AARAT P. S. Tomlin 4752 4000
7. CHUSAN H.Wyatt 4490 4000
8. TASMANIA C.G. Perriru 4488 4000
9. GANGES W. B. Andrews 4196 4000
....A.H.Johnson 4194 4000
....J.S.Murray 4189 4000
....E.M.Edmond,R.N.R..4124 4000
...W.A.SeaU>n,R.N.R..410l 4000
4023 3800
3900 3500
16. PESHAWUR J.C.'Babot 3900 3500
17. MIRZAPORE R.Harvey 3x*7 3500
18. KHEDIVE M.deHorne 3860 3500
19. AUSTRALIA 3664 3300
20. BRINDISI I. Reeves S542 2800
51. NEPAUL T.J. Alderton 3536 3000
52. ROSETTA G.W.Brady 3502 3500
53. ROH1LLA W. Barratt 3500 3500
54. INDUS W.E.Breeze S4W 5700
55. DECCAN :;-<
10. SUTLEJ ....
11. SHANNON...
12. CLYDE
13. THAMES
14. KAISAR-I-HIND..E.G. Stead...
15. PEKIN A. Syi
_
Commander. "'P* *
Tonnage.
26. RAVENNA E.Stewart 3372
27. SURAT C.R.Edwards 3142
POONAH..
29. ANCONA..
30. VERONA..
31. SIAM
32. ASSAM
J. L. Parfitt 3130
R G. Murray 3128
.L.H.Moule 3116
E. Ashdown SOU
S. F. Cole 3a38
33. H Y DASPES H. Scrivener 2984
34. CATHAY T. Fairtloiurh 5983
35. M AL W A A. W . Adamson 2959
36. BOKHARA H. Wriglu-ll 2944
37. MONGOLIA C. Fmser 2833
38. GWALIOR P. Harris 2733
39. VENETIA A.B. Daniell 2726
40. NIZAM W. J. WeM,,-r "Tlf,
41. LOMBARD Y W. E. Thompson 2726
42. KASHGAR W. A. Wheler 2621
. KHIVA K. Sin-i-k 2609
44. THIBET W. D. Mudie 2593
45. TEHERAN W. J. Nantes 5688
46. SUMATRA W.Clement 2488
47. ZAMBESI S. Bnson 2431
48. BANGALORE 2342
. TANMORE R. F. BrUi
tine
2600
2600
2600
3300
3300
2500
:POO
2600
2600
5600
2500
2600
5500
5500
5500
251 10
2200
2200
2200
2500
2200
1(00
2500
2000
1200
4000
50 . G E E I .< I N H P . W . C ase 1 835
Building 51. COROMANDEL . .Greenock 4000
THROUGH SLEEPING CARS
now run between Calais and Brindisi ; fare, 'i 14. 6rf., in addition to ordinarv fares. Only holders of these ticket* an
allowed to travel through with the mails. These tickets can be obtained at the Office of the Compagnie Internationale
des Wagons- Lits, 25 Cockspur Street, Charing Cross.
PLYMOUTH.
The Company's steamers now call at Plymouth on the homeward voyage only, for the convenience of those passen-
prt wishing to dueuibark there. The steamers have ceased to call at Southampton.
96
IMPERIAL GERMAN MAIL.
HAMBURG-AMERICAN PACKET COMPANY,
DIRECT MAIL SERVICE, BY MEANS OF THE COMPANY'S MAG-
NIFICENT CLYDE-BCILT IRON MAIL STEAMERS:
FRISIA, HOLSATIA, BORUSSIA, SILESIA. HAMMOXIA,
BAVARIA, ALBIXGIA, SAXOXIA, ALLEMAXXIA, RUGIA,
HUXGARIA, StT.VIA. THURIXGIA, TEUTOXIA, RHAETIA,
MORAVIA, GELLERT, LESSIXG, RHEXANIA, BOHEMIA.
WESTPHALIA, WIELAXD, CYCLOP,
HAMBURG 1VEW YORK.
Prom HAMBUKG, every WEDNESDAY and SUNDAY Morning.
Prom HAYEE, every TUESDAY Afternoon.
From NEW YORK, every THURSDAY and SATURDAY Noon.
^fF" On t' ie tr 'P to Europe, the steamers leaving New York on Thursdays
touch Plymouth and Cherbourg, thus forming a direct line to England and France.
PRICES OF PASSAGE : First Cabin, $70, $60, and $55 Gold.
RETURN TICKETS: First Cabin, $140, $120, and $100 Gold.
Through Tickets are issued from Hamburg and Havre to San Francisco, Japan,
China, Honolulu, Xew Zealand, and Australia, via Erie Railway and connecting
roads, Pacific Railroad, aud Pacific Mail Steamship Company.
HAMBURG WEST INDIES.
THREE SAILINGS EVERY MOUTH.
From Hamburg on the 6th, 21st, and 24th ;
From Havre on the 9th, 24th, and 1st;
To St. Thomas, San Juan de Puerto Rico, Ponce, Mayaguez, Aguadilla, Puerto Plata,
Samana, Cape Hayti, Gonaives, Port au Prince, St. Mark, Aux Cayes, Jaemel, La
Guayra, Puerto Cabello, Cun^ao, Savanilla, Cartagena, Colon ; and via Colon and
Panama to all ports of the Pacific ; and via San Francisco to China and Japan.
HAMBURG GULF OF MEXICO.
MONTHLY SAILINGS.
From HAMBURG on the 2d, from HAVRE on the 5th, to Vera Cruz, Tampico,
and Progreso.
AGENCIES.
HAMBURG AUGUST BOI.TEX.
LONDON, PLYMOUTH, AND SOOTHAMFTON SMITH. SUNDIUS. k DO
HAVRE AND PARIS BROSTROM & CO.
cn KKiii tUKG A. Bosnia \- ni.s.
NK\V Y< )RK KUNHARirr fc CO.
NEW* YORK PASSENGER AGENCY C.B.RICHARD & BOAS.
COLON (ASI'INWALL) AND PANAMA FfRTH & CAMPBELL.
ST. THOMAS CAPT. F. BECKER, SL PWUSTMJDBIT.
97
WHITE STA.K LINE.
The well-known magnificent Steamers of this Line sail every Thursday from
LIVERPOOL TO NEW YORK.
CARRYING HER MAJESTY'S AND THE UNITED STATES MAILS.
SALOON". The Cabin accommodation is in the centre of the ship, where the noise and motion
are least.
The Indies' Saloons and the Smoke-Rooms are on the upper deck, and are commodious and
handsomely furnished. In each vessel are Piano, Library. Bath-Rooms, Barber Shop. &c.
Saloon Passage, 12, 15, IS, or 22 Pounds each Berth.
RETCRX TICKETS, AVAILABLE FOR TWELVE MONTHS, AT REDUCED RATES.
ISIVTAY, IMRIE, <fc CO., 1O "Water Street, Liverpool;
And. 34 1 -endeiiliall Street, London, E. C.
NEW YORK : K. J. Cortis, 37 Broadway BOSTON : F. A. Adams & Co., 115 State Street.
CHICAGO : X. Anderson, 48 South Clark Street PARIS: H. Genestal & Delzons, 1
Hue Scribe QUEEXSTOWX : James Scott & Co.
THE IMPERIAL AND ROYAL
DANUBE STEAM NAVIGATION COMPANY.
LINES OF STEAMERS
FOR PASSENGERS.
On the Danube From Passau to Gnlatz.
On the Tlieiss From Sze>ediH to Tittel.
On the Save From Sissek to Belgrade.
From PASSAU to LINZ daily 3 P.M.
" LINZ " VIENNA " 1% A.M.
" VIENNA " PESTH " 7 A.M.
From LINZ to PASSAU. . .daily at 6% A.M.
" VIENNA " LINZ " " <o% A.M.
" PESTH "VIENNA... " "6 P.M.
From PESTH to SEMLIN and BELGRADE six times a week.
From PESTH to GIURGEVO (Buchare'st) and GALATZ three times a week.
Fares Moderate Excellent Kestaurant on Board,
Direct service between VIENNA and CONSTANTINOPLE twice a week (Sunday and Wednes-
day) by the Mail Steamers of the Company to RCSTCHUK, thence by Rail to Varna, and from
VARNA to CONSTANTINOPLE by the Steamers of the Austrian Lloyd.
From VIENNA to CONSTANTINOPLE, 68 hours only.
From CONSTANTINOPLE to VIENNA. Sri hours.
FARES: Vienna to Constantinople, First Class, frcs. 186.75;
Second Class, tree. 128.75.
For further information, apply to the office in Vienna, WKISSUAEKBKR, HIXTZRE ZOLLA.MTSSTKASSK.
98
GUION LINE.
United States Mail Steamers,
FOR LIVERPOOL,
From Pier New 38, North River, New York,
EVERY TUESDAY.
WYOMING 3716 Tons.
NEVADA. . ...3125 "
WISCONSIN' 3720 Tons.
ALASKA.. ..6500 "
ARIZONA 5300 Tons.
These Steamers are built of iron, iu water-tight compartments, and are
furnished with every requisite to make the passage across the Atlantic both safe
and agreeable having Bath -Room, Smoking -Room, Drawing -Room, Piano, and
Library, also experienced Surgeon, Stewardess, and Caterer on each Steamer.
The State-Rooms are all on Deck, thus insuring those greatest of
all luxuries at sea, perfect Ventilation and Light.
CA3IN PASSAGE, according to State-Rooms, $60, $80, Or $103.
INTERMEDIATE, $40. STEERAGE, $_*.
Offices, No. 29 Broadway, New York.
WILLIAMS & GUION.
99
NATIONAL LINE TO NEW YORK.
RENOWNED FOR SAFETY, COMFORT, AND REGULARITY.
THE NATIONAL STEAMSHIP COMPANY, LIMITED,
Despatch one of their Magnificent, Full-Powered, British Iron Screw Steamships
From LIVERPOOL, to NEW YORK every Wednesday
(Calling at QUEENSTOWN the day following), and
From LONDON to NEW YORK Weekly.
TONS.
4 50
4275
4309
4837
From New York to Liverpool Every Saturday, and to London Weekly.
The New Steamer "AMERICA" will be running in the Season 1884. She is
expected to rival the very fastest Atlantic Steamer in speed, and her Saloon is unique in style
and magnificence, and in the completeness of its arrangements for the comfort of passengers.
The " EGYPT'S" Saloon has been altered, enlarged, and re-decorated, and her speed increased
through being re-boilered and completely overhauled.
The SALOONS in the other Steamers are unusually spacious, and are particularly well lighted
and ventilated. The STATE ROOMS, all on the Main Deck (in some of the steamers opening off
the saloons), are exceptionally large, light, and airy. Pianos, Ladies' Saloons both on deck and
below, Gentlemen's Smoking-Room, and ladies' and Gentlemen's Bath-Rooms are provided,
THE CUISINE IS OF THE VERY HIGHEST ORDER.
SHIPS.
AMERICA (New Steamer)
EGYPT
SPAIN
THE QUEEN
TON'S. SHIPS.
6000 ITALY
4 C9 HELVETIA
4512 ERIN ..
4457 HOLLAND..
DENMARK
TON'S. SHIPS.
4302 FRANCE .
4587 CANADA .
4577 GREECE .
3847 ENGLAND
3723
SALOON FARES by the " AMKRICA" and " EGYPT "New York to
Liverpool, $80 to $ 1 5O. Liverpool to New York, 15 Guineas 1 5s. to 25
Guineas. Return Tickets on Special Terms.
SALOON FARES to New York by other Steamers, 1O, 12, and 15
Guineas. Return Tickets 22 and 24 Guineas. From New York to Liver-
pool or London direct, $5O to $70. Return Passages at Reduced Rates.
The accommodation for Steerage Passengers is of the highest order.
Apply in Paris at the AMERICAN EXCHANGE, 35 Boulevard des Capucines ; in London, at the
Company's West End Offices and Reading-Rooms, 57 Charing Cross; in Berlin, to CHARLES
MESSING, Potsdamer Bahnhof; in Belfast, to HKNRY GOWAN, Victoria Street; in Queenstown, to
N. & J. CUMMINS & BROTHERS; and to
THE NATIONAL STEAMSHIP COMPANY, LIMITED,
23 Water Street, Liverpool; 57 Chafing Cross, and 36 and 37
Leadenhall Street, London;
And in New York to p. W. J. HURST, at the Company's Offices.
100
NORTH-GERMAN LLOYD STEAMSHIP COMPANY
Carrying tho German and United States Mails.
THIS COMPANY AUK THEIIl OWN INSURERS.
THE FOLLOWING MAGNIFICENT STEAMER.^
ERRA, Fr LDA, ELBE. EMS, EIDER, NE<K AR, OIER. DOXAI'. MAIN, RHEIN. WESER,
HERMANN, AMEKK A, STR\SSBIU(i, KOLN, HANNOVER. KRANKEl'RT. (JEN-
ERAL WEKDER, (JRAF BISMARI K, KKOXl'KINZ FR1E1IRICH WILIIEI.M,
HABSBl RG.SALIER, HOHENST.UFEN, IIOIIENZOLLERN. N"( RNBI KG,
ItRAI .NM'IIM E1G. LEIPZIG, OHIO, BERLIN, BALTIMORE,
ARE Al'1'OINTKD TO SAIL BETWEEN
I. BREMEN AND NEW YORK,
Calling at Southampton out and home. From Bremen, every Sunday and Wednesday; from
Southampton, every Tuesday; from New York, every Saturday and Wednesday.
FARES.
From NEW YORK to
BREMEN, SOCTHAMPTON, I/ONDON, HAVRE.
1st Cabin $100
2d Cabin . . .60
To NEW YORK from
1st BREMEN, PARIS, SOCTHAMPTOX.
Cabin : 350 to 525 Mks. 440to625Frs. 10 to 23
2d do: 300 Mks. 380 Frs. 13
UNEQUALLED IN SPEED AND COMFORT.
Steamers Werra,Fulda,&n<i Elbe make the voyage between Southampton and New York in eight
days. These steamers leave Bremen Wednesdays, Southampton Thursdays,New York Wednesdays.
II. BREMEN AND BALTIMORE.
From Bremen, Wednesday, weekly. From Baltimore, Thursday, weekly.
CABIN" FARES.
From Bremen to Baltimore 4UO Marks. | From Baltimore to Bremen. $90 Gold
III. BREMEN AND NEW ORLEANS,
Calling at Havre and Havana, once a month, from September until May.
CABIN" FARKS.
To HAVANA and NEW ORLEANS from
BREMEN. SOI-THAMPTON, HAVRE, PARIS,
630 Mks. 31 108. F. 770 F. 785
IV. BREMEN AND BAHI4, RIO DE JANEIRO, AND SANTOS,
Culling at Antwerp and Lisbon. Departure from Bremen, 25th; Antwerp, 29th;
Lisbon, 4th or 5th of each mouth.
V. BREMEN AND MONTEVIDEO AND BUENOS AY RES,
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102
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107
THE PARIS COMMUNE.
THE RISE AND FALL OF THE PARIS COMMUNE IN 1871 ; with a
Full Account of the Bombardment, Capture, and Burning of the City. By
W. PEMBROKE FETRIDGE, an Eye- Witness of the Events described, Editor
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FROM NAPOLEON III.
ith November, 1871.
Monsieur W. PEMBROKE FETRIDGE, Paris.
MONSIEUR, The Emperor has charged me to inform you that he has received
your letter, also your history of the Paris Commune.
His Majesty has read the work with the greatest interest, and has requested me
to express to you his sincere thanks.
Receive, Monsieur, the assurance of my distinguished consideration.
COUNT DAVILLIER.
FROM MR. WASHBURNE.
LEGATION OF THE UNITED STATES, PARIS, October 27th, 1871.
MY DEAR MR. FETRIDGE :
You have my sincere thanks for sending me a copy of your history of the Com-
mune of Paris. I have read it with great pleasure. You have grouped together
the facts and given your narrative all the interest of a romance. In after-years the
perusal of it will briny: to our minds the wonderful events which yon and 1 wit-
nessed, and which tilled the civilized world with horror.
Believe me, my clear Mr. Fetridge,
Very sincerely and truly yours, E. B. WASIIBURNE.
W. PEMBROKE FETIUDGE, Esq., Paris.
FROM GENERAL READ, United States Consul General.
PARIS, 37 AVENUE D'ANTIN, CHAMPS ELYSEES, November Wi, 1871.
My most sincere thanks attend you, my dear Mr. Fetridge.
I have read the history of the Commune with absorbing interest, nnd I must
frankly confess that you have deprived me of two nights' rest. Not that I look
upon my time as lost, for your narrative is wonderfully attractive. It is also so
consecutive in its treatment that the stirring and terrible scenes of that most re-
markable drama in French history, through which we both passed, arise before me
with almost painful accuracy.
You have given to the world the most complete and the most picturesque idea
of the extraordinary events of the Second Siege which bus appeared.
A somewhat intimate acquaintance with the difficulties attending such a literary
performance among others the apparent impossibility of separating tact from fic-
tion enables me to congratulate you most heartily upon the tact and judgment
which you have displayed in the construction of your work.
You and I do not a'gree upon certain points; bat, when we differ, I am led to
respect your ability, and to admire the skill with which you present certain argu-
ments to which I can not entirely give my assent.
You deserve great credit for having remained in your exposed quarters, coolly
watching the events whose progress you were chronicling moment by moment.
Having witnessed your sangfroid during the most trying hours, I am happy to bear
my personal testimony to your entire fitness to judge dispassionately the situation.
With renewed acknowledgments, therefore, and great respect, I have the honor
to remain, my dear Mr. Fetridgc. your friend,
JOHN MEREDITH READ, JR., M.R.S.A., F.R.S.N.A.
W. PEMBROKE FETRIDGE, Esq., 13 Avenue de 1'Impe'ratrice, Paris.
108
HARPER'S PHRASE-BOOK;
OR,
HAND-BOOK OF TRAVEL TALK
FOR TRAVELERS AND SCHOOLS.
BEING A
Guide to Conversation in English, French, German and Italian,
ON A NEW AND IMPROVED METHOD.
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By W. PEMBROKE FETRIDGE,
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* * * We do not hesitate to pronounce this the best-prepared volume of iU
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Boston Journal.
7 109
LAWS AND REGULATIONS OF
SHORT WHIST.
ADOPTED BY THE
WASHINGTON CLUB OF PARIS.
Compiled from the Best Modern Authorities, and as Played in the Principal Clubs of London and
Paris, and in the First Saloons of both Capitals; with Maxims and Advice for Beginners.
By W. PEMBROKE FETRIDGE.
AUTHOR OF "HARPER'S HAND-BOOKS," "THE RISE AND FALL OF THE PARIS COMMUNE,"
"HARPER'S PHRASE-BOOK," Eta, ETC.
OPINIONS OF THE PRESS.
Lovers of the game cannot fail to welcome and be interested in this lively little manual. * * *
The technical terms are lucidly defined, and then follow the rules proper, 95 in number, involving
many nice points and subtle discriminations. * * * The maxims for beginners and the general in-
structions which follow them indicate a close scrutiny and thoroirgh understanding of the game,
and will be found valuable to many who already consider themselves experts. New York Times.
The little book is an adjunct which should be in the hands of every devotee of the noble
game. New York Era.
This book is written to combat and confute some decisions made by self-constituted authori-
ties, in which decisions are contrary to Hoyle, and ugaiust all the laws and usages of Whist
clubs. St. Louis Republican.
The preface is very amusing in the sarcastic tone it adopts toward "Cavendish," whom it
overhauls unmercifully as a pretender, and whose claim as a final authority it disputes. The rules
of the game are laid out with great clearness, and the maxims and advice given for the benefit
of students and beginners are comprehensive and logical, and founded upon the soundest princi-
ples. The best method of play for each hand is thoroughly argued, and there is a very valuable
table of deductions or inferences to be drawn from leads and play. In short, this little volume
merits the attentive consideration of amateur whist players, to whom it will prove of the greatest
service. Saturday Evening Gazette. Boston.
This little book will undoubtedly be welcomed by all lovers of the game, and settles some dis-
puted questions. Chicago Tribune.
The value of this volume (albeit it is not a large one) consists in the calm and logical manner
in which the subject discussed is treated, the clearness of the definitions given, the thorough ac-
quaintance with the topics presented, which is manifest on every page, and the con amore and
sympathetic tone which interpenetrates everything that is said. A very interesting and subjec-
tive preface is followed by a short introduction. After a statement of the different games of
whist, technical terms are defined, and then come the ninety-five rules of Short Whist of the
Washington Club of Paris. The leading topics of the remainder of the book are maxims and ad-
vice for students and beginners, asking for trumps, the original lead, leads generally, second hand,
third hand, passing the trick or finessing, fourth hand, deductions or inferences from leads and
plays, and the thirteenth card. To every lover of whist, and to every one who wishes to learn the
game, we unhesitatingly commend this volume. Troy Morning Whig.
Nowhere outside of England is whist more played among the better classes than in Virginia,
and we do not doubt that this volume will meet here a cordial reception. Index and Appeal,
"etersburg, Va.
We have no doubt that this little manual will become the standard authority. Boston
Traveller.
The book is certainly the best compendium of the laws of this great social game that we have
yet seen. St. John Globe, St. John, N. B.
The editor has left no source of information unsought, and the result of his investigations
will be found of the highest value. St. Louis Globe- Democrat.
Lovers of this time honored pastime will be interested in this handy little guide to accurate
play ing. National Journal of Education, Boston.
The author gives much valuable advice to lovers of this noble game. Baltimore Gazette.
It is accompanied with maxims and advice for beginners, and its treatment of the subject is
most thorough, systematic, and exhaustive. Boston Commercial Bulletin.
With two hundred other notices of similar character.
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