ty of California era Regional iry Facility 10 , "<*>tt feuWs for (Clt uurrr LONDON SIGNS AND INSCRIPTIONS. FISH SHOP IN CHEYNE WALK. LONDON SIGNS AND INSCRIPTIONS BY PHILIP NORMAN, F.S.A. WITH MANY ILL USTRA TIONS. WITH AN INTRODUCTION BY HENRY B. WHEATLEY, F.S.A., AUTHOR OF ' LONDON PAST AND PRESENT,' ETC. LONDON : ELLIOT STOCK, 62, PATERNOSTER ROW. 1897. INTRODUCTION. I HAVE been asked to write a short introduction to this volume of the series in which it appears, and I do so with great pleasure. The subject of sculptured signs is one of con- siderable interest, to which too little attention has hitherto been devoted, and the treatment of this important section of London antiquities could not have fallen into better hands than into those of Mr. Philip Norman, who has devoted many years of patient labour to the search for these signs, which are often found in very out-of-the- way localities. Mr. Norman possesses one most important qualification for the task he has under- taken, in that he is an accomplished artist. He is thus doubly well equipped both as an antiquary and as an artist. It will, I think, surprise many readers to learn that so much is still left to us, and I hope that the attention drawn to some of the signs which have 2039080 viii Introduction. disappeared of late years may result in the dis- covery of their present hiding-places. Some years ago there was a curious sculptured sign over the entrance to Bull Head Court, Newgate Street. This represented William Evans, Charles I.'s gigantic porter, and Jeffrey Hudson, the Queen's dwarf. When King Edward Street was widened this sign disappeared. If it be still in existence, we may hope that, in course of time, it may find a home in the Guildhall Museum, where so many interesting relics of old London are preserved. Painted signs, which were once almost universal, were suddenly cleared away by the Act of Parliament of 1762, but these sculptured signs remained because they were a part of the houses to which they were attached, and they only pass away when the houses are rebuilt. As the reader casually turns over the pages or this book, he cannot fail to be struck by the variety of objects which have been represented on the signs. Many of these may be considered as marks of ownership, and the crests and coats of arms of the City Companies are frequently found as signs. In connection with the aesthetic revival there has been a considerable reappearance of signs in different parts of London, mostly of artistic iron- work ; but although this helps to relieve the dull monotony of many streets it is not a custom that Introduction. ix would be popular if it became universal. There can, however, be no objection to the more general adoption of artistic sculpture on the fronts of houses. When an old house is rebuilt, its story (if it have a story) may with advantage be graphically represented on the front of the new one. This has been done in some cases, and an extension of the custom would add to the beauty of the streets, and increase the interest of the passer-by in the almost forgotten history of his own town. It is a satisfactory thing that the relics of former fashions of decoration should be registered for the information of those who desire to keep them- selves in touch with the history of the past. Even in this materialistic age 'there are many who love to live in imagination in a former age, and a sculptured sign or inscription on an old house will often help them to do this. For centuries London was remarkable for its gardens, but this has been changed at the end of the nineteenth century. Considering the great value of land in ' the City,' I suppose it cannot be a matter of surprise that almost every bit of garden or green place has been swept out of exist- ence, but I think every lover of London will sympathize with the protest against this tendency which concludes Mr. Norman's book. I do not, however, wish to keep the reader longer x Introduction. from learning what the author has to say, and I will only add that this volume will form a most useful and agreeable addition to the extensive litera- ture which is gradually growing up in connection with the ever-increasing world of houses and men which is known as London. HENRY B. WHEATLEY. OPPIDANS ROAD, N.W., March, 1893. AUTHOR'S PREFACE. T T NTIL the beginning of this century, I may \^J almost say till the development of our railway system some fifty years ago, though London was continually spreading in all directions, its heart the City remained very much as Wren had left it. Here many a well-to-do trader was content to dwell in the substantial house in which his business was carried on, and to pray in the neighbouring parish church where his father had prayed before him. Now the church has, likely enough, disappeared, the monuments of his ances- tors are bundled off" no one knows where ; perhaps the very street in which he lived is changed out of all power of recognition. In short, to meet our modern requirements, the City has become a mere mass of offices, warehouses, and gigantic railway - stations, whence issue each morning myriads of human beings who spend the day in xii Preface. struggling for wealth or a livelihood, and at night return to their homes, which are spread over an area some sixty miles in diameter, leaving the centre to be protected by a few porters and care- takers. The decrease in the resident population has now extended a considerable distance west. To the observing eye, however, traces of a former state of things are still to be seen, not only in important buildings such as the City halls, the parish churches and the old merchants' houses still existing ; but in objects less conspicuous, for in- stance, the sculptured house and street signs which came into fashion after the Great Fire. These have no little artistic merit, and almost all are interesting from their associations. The greater part of my book- is devoted to a careful description of such signs ; not only the existing ones, but all of which I can find any mention. This descrip- tion I have tried to make as complete as possible, and I have allowed myself some latitude, recording not only facts which appeared to me of interest concerning the particular house, court, or alley to which the sign belonged, but also its probable origin, and any story or legend that might be con- nected with it. Sculptured signs are often heraldic, and from them the transition is natural to still existing crests and coats of arms carved on buildings in various parts of the town. A cognate subject is Preface. xiii that of old dates and inscriptions, suggestive as they are of the former ownership of property, of changes in the names of streets, sometimes even giving us glimpses of family history ; as in the inscription to Denzil Lord Holies. My researches naturally led me into the Guild- hall Museum, where the need of a suitable cata- logue (soon, I hear, to be supplied), induced me to put together a few suggestive notes on the curiosities relating to London which there find a home. I have added a short account of some half dozen of the painted signs still existing in the Metropolis which seemed to have more than common interest. I have already referred to the extraordinary decrease of City inhabitants. On the other hand, in outlying districts the converse process has taken place. The little towns and villages of three hundred years ago, then some distance from London, and numbering among their inhabitants people of high birth unconnected with trade, became by degrees half rural suburbs, where well- to-do citizens sought amusement and repose. Folks of this class have now gone further afield, and for many years the speculative builder has been at work, providing for a humbler and far more numerous population. The space is covered with miles upon miles of dull monotonous streets ; plea- sant gardens have disappeared, hills are levelled, xiv Preface. valleys filled up, wells choked, the clear streams turned into sewers, nothing remaining to remind us of what has gone before except the names, and here and there an old house, a carving or inscrip- tion. The existence of a few of these mementoes has attracted me to Islington and Clerkenwell, and must be my excuse for describing in detail several of the spas and places of entertainment with which in the eighteenth century this region abounded. Thence I make my way back to the City, and while exploring the picturesque districts of Great St. Helen's and Austin Friars, I give an account of two remarkable old City mansions lately de- stroyed, which may fairly claim a place ; for one was distinguished by an elaborate coat of arms, and the other by an interesting date and initials. This latter was of no small architectural merit, while both were the homes of eminent citizens. Perhaps I should add that the subject of sculp- tured signs has been briefly treated by me in the pages of the Antiquary, and that for the English Illustrated Magazine ', of Christmas, 1891, I wrote and illustrated an article on old City mansions, including those which are here more completely described. In the course of the text I have indicated sources of information, and have acknowledged Preface. xv help from several good friends. I wish here in an especial manner to thank Mr. Henry B. Wheatley, F.S.A. As I am indebted to him for an intro- duction to this volume, it would perhaps not be becoming to dwell over-much on the merits of his great work, ' London Past and Present,' based on Peter Cunningham's Handbook ; I find myself constantly referring to it, and always with advan- tage. Lord Tennyson has kindly allowed me to quote four lines dictated by his illustrious father, which have not before appeared in print. The illustrations I venture to commend, for few of them are the work of my hand. They have at least one great merit, that of being scrupulously accurate. Allusion is made in the text to Mr. Tarbolton's valuable contribution. There is a fine drawing by Mr. F. E. Cox ; while Mr. E. M. Cox contributes a whole series, the merits of which speak for themselves. The Three Kings, the Bell, and the Boar's Head may be named as specimens. Mr. Fletcher did the charming little sketch of an inscription formerly over the entrance to Bagnigge Wells, with its grotesque head ; and the editors of the Strand Magazine and the Builder have allowed me the use of blocks from their respective publications. In conclusion, let me express a hope that the xvi Preface. kind reader will not class this volume in the cate- gory of ' books which are no books,' as Charles Lamb puts it, or even as one ' which no gentle- man's library should be without,' but that he will find here some useful and curious information, put together in a form sufficiently agreeable to make him wish for more. CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. HUMAN SIGNS PAGE I CHAPTER II. THREE KINGS ASTRONOMICAL SIGNS CHAPTER III. ANIMALS REAL AND IMAGINARY - CHAPTER IV. ANIMALS REAL AND IMAGINARY (continued} CHAPTER V. BIRDS AND OTHER SCULPTURED SIGNS - 26 4 6 6 7 8 9 xviii Contents. CHAPTER VI. PAGE VARIOUS CRESTS AND COATS OF ARMS - - - 121 CHAPTER VII. MISCELLANEOUS SIGNS, DATES, AND INSCRIPTIONS, ETC. I $6 CHAPTER VIII. A FEW SUBURBAN SPAS l8o CHAPTER IX. TWO OLD CITY MANSIONS - - - 2OO LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. FISH SHOP IN CHEYNE WALK BOY AND PANYER, PANYER ALLEY NAKED BOY, PIE CORNER - THREE KINGS, LAMBETH HILL HALF MOON, HIGH STREET, SOUTHWARK HALF MOON, HOLYWELL STREET - BOAR'S HEAD, EASTCHEAP DOG AND DUCK, ST. GEORGE'S FIELDS, SOUTHWARK MARKS FOUND ON OLD LONDON BRIDGE HARE AND SUN, HIGH STREET, SOUTHWARK COCK AND SNAKES, CHURCH STREET, CHELSEA COCK, FLEET STREET BELL, KNIGHTRIDER STREET FEATHERS, ST. PAUL'S CHURCHYARD MITRE, HATTON GARDEN - LEOPARD, BUDGE ROW ROYAL ARMS, NEWCOMEN STREET, SOUTHWARK INSCRIPTION, DENZELL STREET - - frontispiece 4 8 - 27 4i 45 - 5i - 73 - 78 - 89 - 103 - 108 - in - 116 - 125 - 136 - 150 XX List of Illustrations. TABLET, GREAT JAMES STREET - TABLET, MOUNT PLEASANT TABLET, UNION STREET, SOUTHV/ARK TABLET, WALBROOK INSCRIPTION, KING'S CROSS ROAD NOS. 8 AND 9 GREAT ST. HELEN'S PAGE I6 3 164 I6 5 1 66 195 201 PART OF THE OLD HOUSE IN GREAT ST, HELEN'S, FROM A MEASURED DRAWING - - - 204 SIGNS AND INSCRIPTIONS OF HISTORIC LONDON. CHAPTER I. HUMAN SIGNS. ' Be sure observe the signs, for signs remain Like faithful landmarks to the walking train.' GAY : Trivia. T NTIL the early part of the eighteenth \^_) century, when the plan of numbering came into vogue, not only inns and taverns, but shops and other houses, were distinguished by signs. The wholesale traders, indeed, were as a rule sufficiently well known not to require this distinctive mark. In the ' Little London Direc- tory ' for the year 1677 the oldest printed list of the kind hardly any of the merchants have signs. The reverse is the case with the bankers, who, as 'goldsmiths that keep running cashes,' had 2 London Signs and Inscriptions. then hardly emerged from the shopkeeper class. Nevertheless, signs were exceedingly common ; on the rebuilding of the city, immediately after the Great Fire, many of them, instead of being painted and hung out though this continued to be the more usual method were carved in stone and built into the plain brick fronts of the new houses, generally above or below a first-floor window. In some cases also, the name of a court or alley was thus indicated a useful method when a large number of the population could neither read nor write. It is curious that signs of a very similar description were used by the Romans ; for instance, the well-known terra-cotta bas-relief of two men carrying an amphora, and a figure of a goat, both found at Pompeii ; the former almost identical in design with our conventional repre- sentation of the Two Brewers. These, however, were cast in a mould which was probably used again and again. They therefore, perhaps, indi- cated a trade rather than a particular house ; like our modern pawnbrokers', tobacconists', and gold- beaters' signs. I shall presently call attention to a London seventeenth-century sign repeated in the same way. Our plan seems to have been adopted from the Continent, where many stone signs are still to be found. They are commonest in Holland and the Human Signs. 3 Low Countries. Here, perhaps ever since the Roman occupation, certainly since the days of Charlemagne, brick has been the usual building material, for it must have been that which was most easily available. Fortunately many of the old Dutch houses still survive ; they hang together with wonderful pertinacity in spite of bad founda- tions, and beautiful specimens of picturesque architecture they are, with their step gables and stone ornamentation. The Dutch signs are often spirited and elaborate in design ; they are to be found of all ages from about the year 1550 till near the end of the eighteenth century, but as might be expected, the earlier ones, which are often historical, are the best. They were placed like those in London, and generally had an orna- mental border. Sometimes in place of a sign there was a pious distich or inscription, sometimes merely a date. A capital book on Dutch signs by J. Van Lennep and J. Ter Gouw has lately been published. Many of these signs from buildings now destroyed are to be seen in an annexe of the fine modern picture-gallery in Amsterdam. I am glad to say that our City authorities have shown a like respect for similar relics of old London, and some interesting specimens have found a home in the Guildhall Museum. Others have disappeared, and a certain number are still more or less in their original positions. 4 London Signs and Inscriptions. In the following pages I shall try to describe all the London sculptured signs of which we have any record; for convenience I have classified them, and naturally begin with those in which human beings are represented. One of the most interesting and best known is the sign of the Boy and Panyer, which is still to be seen, its base resting on the ground, and let into the wall between two houses on the eastern side of Panyer Alley, a narrow passage leading from Paternoster Row to Newgate Street. It represents a naked boy seated on a pannier or basket, and holding what, in Strype's time, appeared to be a bunch of grapes between Human Signs. 5 his hand and foot, ' in token perhaps of plenty,' as he suggests. Within an ornamental border, apparently on a separate stone below, is the follow- ing inscription : 'When ye have sought the Citty round, Yet still this is the highest ground. August the 27, 1688.' Height fifty-two inches, breadth in the broadest part twenty-six inches. It is now much dilapidated, and seems to be in some danger of destruction, for one of the houses against which it stands is shortly to be pulled down.* However, I am assured that proper steps will be taken for its preservation. The property belongs by right to the parish of St. Michael-le-Querne, having been left in 1620 by Sir John Leman and Cornelius Fishe for parochial uses, but it is now handed over to the Trustees of City Parochial Charities. The sign no doubt dates from after the Great Fire ; it seems, however, to represent a previous one. Stow, writing in 1598, says that Panyer Alley was ' so called of such a sign,' and confirm- ing his statement, a Panyer, Paternoster Row, appears in a list of taverns of about the year 1430, which Mr. Charles Welch, F.S.A., lately dis- covered among the documents of the Brewers' Company, the landlord, John Ives, having been a member of that company. From ' Liber Albus,' * In November, 1892, this house was demolished. 6 London Signs and Inscriptions. which relates to the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries, one learns that in those days the sale of bread was not allowed to take place in the bakers' houses, but only in the King's markets. It was sold in bread-baskets or ' panyers/ and, the coarser kinds at any rate, occasionally in boxes or hutches. Mr. H. T. Riley in his introduction to ' Liber Albus ' (p. Ixviii.) stated it as his opinion that the child is handing out a loaf, and that at a period somewhat later than the date of that volume (1419) Panyer Alley was noted as a standing place for bakers' boys with their panniers. If, as seems not unlikely, this was the case, the sign would be similar to the Baker and Basket, still existing in Whitechapel and in Finsbury. Another idea that the pannier is in point of fact a fruit-basket seems to arise from Strype's statement that the boy has in his hand a bunch of grapes. Fruit and vegetables were doubtless landed from the river in the neigh- bourhood of St. Paul's. Porters carrying such produce may have passed through, and rested them- selves in this short passage on their way to Newgate Market, which, originally for corn and meal, was after the Fire used for poultry, fruit, and vegetables,* before it became exclusively a meat market. Mr. Kerslake, in a passage since referred to with approval by Professor Earle in his work on * Matron's 'New View of London,' 1708, vol. i., p. 59. Human Signs. * Land Charters and Saxonic Documents' (i tries to connect the sign with a far more remote antiquity. He argues that it may have been placed there to transmit the tradition of a wheat- maund-stone (maund being a basket or pannier), mentioned in a grant of King Alfred, A.D. 889, which indicated the site of the ancient corn market, and was, in point of fact, a place where a porter carrying a load of wheat could rest it, or the base of a market cross. * It seems that the question of a town house for the Bishop of the Mercians having come before Alfred, he gave to Bishop Werfrith a mansion or court, ' aet hwaet mundes stane ' thus it is spelt in the document and probably granted him a toll on the neighbouring market. I am not aware of any further evidence in support of this theory. The church of St. Michael-le-Querne, ad Bladum, or at the Corne, which was destroyed in the Great Fire, and not rebuilt, stood close to Panyer Alley, at the extreme end of Paternoster Row, and Stow says it was so called ' because in place thereof was sometime a corn market, stretch- ing by west to the shambles.' The Rev. W. J. Loftie tells us that at present the sign of the Boy and Panyer is not on the highest point in the City, * In later times there was a cross at the east end of the church of St. Michael-le-Querne, replaced by a water conduit, in the mayoralty of William Eastfield, A.D. 1429, as I learn from Stow. The site of this cross is considerably east of Panyer Alley. 8 London Signs and Inscriptions. being fifty-nine feet, while the site of the Standard in Cornhill is sixty feet above sea-level. Certainly it is not on the highest point of Panyer Alley. A writer in Notes and Queries has lately suggested that the highest point in the City was at or near Leadenhall Market, or the chancel of the primitive St. Peter's Church on Cornhill. A statuette, also representing a naked boy, not sculptured in stone, but carved in wood, is placed on a pedestal affixed to the wall of a public-house, at the corner of (jiltspur Street and Cock Lane, called the Fortune of War. The spot was com- Human Signs. 9 monly known as Pie Corner : it is hardly necessary to add that here ended the Great Fire of London. The figure in question was put up after that event ; an engraving of it in Pennant's account of London shows the following inscription on the breast and arms : ' This boy is in Memory Put up for the late Fire of London, occasioned by the Sin of Gluttony, 1666.' Burn tells us that its propriety was on one occasion thus supported by a Nonconformist preacher on the anniversary of the Fire. He asserted that the calamity could not be occasioned by the sin of blasphemy, for in that case it would have begun in Billingsgate ; nor lewdness, for then Drury Lane would have been first on fire ; nor lying, for then the flames had reached them from Westminster Hall. ' No, my beloved ; it was occasioned by the sin of gluttony, for it began at Pudding Lane and ended at Pie Corner.' The inscription has long been obliterated, and no trace is to be seen of the little wings with which, in Pennant's illustration, the boy is furnished ; in 1816, however, they were still conspicuous, and were painted bright yellow. In that curious work the ' Vade-Mecum for Malt-worms ' which was written about the year 1715, the For- tune of War is mentioned as a well-known tavern. Within the memory of man it had the unpleasing reputation of being a house of call for resurrec- io London Signs and Inscriptions. tionists, who supplied the surgeons of St. Bartholo- mew's Hospital with subjects for dissection. It was here that John Bishop, the body-snatcher, met his accomplice Williams, before the murder of the Italian boy Ferrari, for which and similar crimes they were hanged in 1831. Our quaint old chronicler, John Stow, says that Pie Corner was ' a place so called of such a sign, sometime a fair inn for receipt of travellers, but now divided into tenements.' Strype in 1720 describes it as noted chiefly for 'Cooks' Shops and Pigs drest there during Bartholomew Fair.' There are several allusions to it in Ben Jonson's ' Alchemist ' and other plays. The sign of the Pie probably implied the bird now usually called a magpie, but it might have been derived from the Pye,* or rules for finding out the service of the day in the Roman Breviary, or from the good cheer provided in this immediate neighbourhood. Larwood and Hotten mention * Pye, i.e., parti-coloured, as in the bird. It is said to have been so called because the initial and principal letters of the rubrics were printed in red, and the rest in black. At the beginning of the Church of England Prayer-Book, in that section which relates to the service of the Church, mention is made of ' the number and hardness of the rules called the Pie.' Shakespeare, in the ' Merry Wives of Windsor,' says, ' By cocke and pie you shall not choose, sir ; you shall not choose, but come.' In this asseveration cock is supposed to be a euphemism for God, and pie the above-named ordinal. Human Signs. 1 1 a stone sign of a Naked Boy with the date 1633 at Skipton-in-Craven. A stone bas-relief of that mythical person, Guy, Earl of Warwick, is still preserved on a house at the corner of Warwick Lane and Newgate Street. The figure is represented standing on a pedestal in chain armour, with a conical helmet, a sword in his right hand, and on his left arm a shield chequy, or and azure, with a bend sinister ermine. This seems to be wrongly copied from Guy's shield in the Rows Roll, which has a chevron ermine, but one arm of the chevron is, from the position of the shield, so foreshortened that it can hardly be seen ; hence the mistake. Above is the date 1668, on one side the letters G. C., standing, I suppose, for GUIDO COMES ; on the other a coat of arms, three mascles on a bend, to whom be- longing I cannot say, so many families have this charge. Below is the inscription: 'Restored 1817. J. Deakes, Archt.' The general design somewhat resembles that of a large figure in the chapel of St. Mary Magdalen at Guy's Cliff, near Warwick, which, as we learn from a modern inscription in Latin, was hewn out of the living rock by order of Richard de Beauchamp, Earl of Warwick, in the reign of Henry VI., to mark the spot where Guy was thought to have ended his days. This Richard de Beauchamp obtained license to found here a 12 London Signs and Inscriptions. chantry for two priests, and annexed land thereto to the value of twenty-four marks per annum. It had before been a hermitage. Stow tells us that ' Eldernesse lane, which stretcheth north to the high street of Newgate market, is now called Warwicke lane, of an ancient house there, built by an Earl of Warwicke, and since called War- wicke Inn.' Elsewhere he says: 'In the 36th of Henry VI. the greater estates of the realm being called up to London, Richard Nevill Earl of Warwick came with six hundred men all in jackets embroidered with ragged staves before and behind, and was lodged in Warwicke Lane, in whose house there were oftentimes six oxen eaten at breakfast, and every tavern was full of his meat, for he that had any acquaintance in that house might have there so much of sodden and roast meat as he could prick and carry away upon a long dagger.' At the beginning of this century the house to which the statuette belonged was occupied by a Mr. Parry ; an inscription over the door stated that it had been a tobacconist's shop since 1660, no doubt rebuilt. A well-modelled bas-relief of a woman's head, probably intended to represent Minerva, is on a house belonging to the Leathersellers' Company, at the corner of Old Jewry and Gresham Street. She has a helmet or diadem, and on her breast the Gorgon's head ; an aegis also seems to be Human Signs. 13 suggested. On each side are festoons of fruit and flowers ; the material I believe to be terra-cotta, but it is so thickly coated with paint that one cannot be sure. Archer, who drew this sign, thought it was a fragment of sculpture from a building of the early part of the sixteenth century, and it seems to have something in common with Italian terra-cotta work of that period; for instance the medallions* executed by Joannes Maiano for Cardinal Wolsey, and still existing at Hampton Court. Before the house was modernized, on the brick wall, below the head of Minerva, there was a carving of the Leathersellers' Arms ; and so, being used as a tavern during the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries, until 1871 it was known by the sign of the Leathersellers' Arms, or latterly the Three Bucks' Heads. Of the sculptured head of Minerva no record exists. This property seems to have belonged to the Leathersellers' Company ever since the year 1565, when Edward Taylor, who had been its master, left by will to the company two messuages in St. Olave's, Jewry, to distribute among the poorest people in the Poultry Compter a kilderkin of beer and twelve penny- worth of bread, and the same to Wood Street Compter, Newgate, the Fleet, King's Bench, and the Marsha] sea. In 1878 all arrears of these * On the Holbein gateway at Whitehall there were also medallions of terra-cotta, as large or larger than life. 14 London Signs and Inscriptions. payments to each prison at ^i is. per quarter, viz. for a kilderkin of beer 1, and for bread is., having been paid to this date, and the full pay- ment being 25 43. a year, the company transferred to the official trustees of charities stock sufficient to produce that amount. The name of Cateaton Street was in 1845 changed to Gresham Street, no one knows why. Here, in the days of John Taylor the water-poet, there was an important inn called the Maidenhead, but this, I imagine, -had for its sign the arms of the Mercers' Company, whose headquarters were in its immediate neighbourhood. Later a seventeenth-century trade token was issued from the Roxalana's Head in Cateaton Street, the sign no doubt commemorating Elizabeth Davenport the actress, whose favourite part was Roxalana in the ' Siege of Rhodes.' Her sham marriage with the last Earl of Oxford of the de Vere family, who deceived her by dis- guising a trumpeter of his troop as a priest, is told in ' Gramont,' and in the ' Countess Dunois' Memoirs.' Pepys saw her in i66, in the chief box at the Duke's theatre, ' in a velvet gown, as the fashion is, looking very handsome.' The Woman's Head, dated 1671, which was on a house in Paternoster Row, and has been lately added to the Guildhall Museum, was hardly a sign. Similar heads are still on the keys of a first and second floor window belonging to the old-fashioned Human Signs. 15 house of Messrs. W. and R. Chambers, 47, Pater- noster Row. Another bas-relief in the Guildhall Museum represents a gardener holding a spade in his right hand, with the date 1670 ; it is rudely designed. This is a street rather than a house sign ; as late as the year 1856 it was in Gardiner's Lane, Upper Thames Street, near Broken Wharf. Mr. J. T. Smith, who drew it, in 1791, for his ' Antiquities of London,' adds this description : ' Against Mr. Holyland's stables, Gardiner's Lane, the corner of High Timber Street, is this sculp- ture, but why put up I cannot learn. Tradition says the site was once gardens.' Perhaps it was a rebus on the name of Gardiner. Two bas-reliefs of St. George and the Dragon were erected as signs in London soon after the Great Fire, and, on the principle Detur digniori, should be described in this chapter. It was only natural that the figure of St. George should become one of our most popular inn signs ; for he was regarded as the patron saint and special protector of this our realm of England. Shake- speare speaks of ' St. George that swindg'd the Dragon, and e'er since Sits on his horseback at mine hostess' door.' 'King John,' Act i., Scene I. A capital specimen of such a sign, though un- fortunately in bad condition, is at the Guildhall Museum presented by Mr. W. Hayward, C.E. 1 6 London Signs and Inscriptions. It came from a house 81, Snow Hill which had formed part of a famous old galleried inn. Snow Hill was the thoroughfare between Holborn and the City, till in 1 802 it was superseded by Skinner Street, named after Alderman Skinner, which has now in its turn ceased to exist. Snow Hill is called in Stow's ' Survey ' Snor or Snore Hill, and by Howell Sore Hill, perhaps from the steep- ness and difficulty of the ascent. Strype, in 1720, speaks of the George Inn as ' very large and of a considerable trade, the passage to the yard being through Cow Lane.' In Sampson's * History of Advertising/ an advertisement is given from the British Chronicle of January 18 to 20, 1762, which informs us that THE READING MACHINE Is removed from the Three Kings, Piccadilly, to the George Inn, Snow Hill, London ; sets out from the Broad Face,* Reading, every Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, at seven o'clock in the morning, and from the George Inn, Snow Hill, every Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday, at seven o'clock in the morning ; carries passengers to And from Reading, at 6s. each ; children in lap and outside passengers at 33. T, f j u f Thomas Moore and Performed by < D . , , ,,. , 1 \ Richard Mapleton. N.B. Takes no charge of Writings, Money, Watches, or Jewels, unless entered and paid for as such. * The Broad Face, Reading, is noticed by Pepys as an odd sign, when he visited the town on June 16, 1668. t . Human Signs. 17 A second representation of the subject of the George and Dragon was formerly to be seen on Bennet Hill, opposite the Heralds' College, and stood over the entrance to a small court, to which it gave a name. On it were the initials R ^, and date 1667. In * Remarks on London,' by W. Stow, 1722, mention is made of ' George Court, against the Heralds' Office at Paul's Chain.' The ' Con- stitutions of the Order of the Garter' (c. iii.) ordain that * the Sovereign shall put upon his (the knight elect's) neck a collar, or little chain or lace, having pendant therefrom a massive golden image of an armed knight (/.J< SIGILLVM TEMPLI.' From the fact that Sir George Buc suggested to the Society of the Middle Temple the two devices which had been used by the Templars, it is evident that the Pegasus, already adopted by the Inner Temple, was not considered in his time to have any connection with the original seal of the Knights Templars. The fourth of the great Inns of Court Gray's Inn derived its name from the noble family of the Greys of Wilton, having been originally their dwelling, just as Lincoln's Inn had been the dwelling of an Earl of Lincoln, and several of the Inns of Chancery were originally the homes of other well-known personages. The society seems first to have used the arms of the Grey family ; afterwards they adopted the Griffin's Head* as their device, and it still adorns the pillars of the gate- way from Field Court into those delightful * For further details about the armorial bearings, see * Gray's Inn ; its History and Associations,' by W. R. Douth- waite, 1886, chap. xi. 134 London Signs and Inscriptions. gardens which were first planted, it is thought, under the direction of no less a man than Francis Bacon. Once they were the resort of fine ladies, but fashion has long since deserted them. The trees, however, are still fine, the aspect of the place ' reverend and law-abiding.' Here there is, or was, a rookery, which has given pleasure to generations of Londoners. Early last summer (1892) the Benchers, anxious to utilize so eligible a site, erected a corrugated iron structure some 90 feet long, at the south-west corner of the gardens. They have tried to make it look beautiful by partly covering it with trellis-work, and by having the wooden roof painted tile colour. The rooks, however, showed their resentment by flying off in a body, and it remains a question whether they will again make the gardens their permanent home ; for now I hear that this erection, which has the negative merit of being easily removable, is to be replaced by a chapel ' in the Elizabethan or late Tudor style,' the windows to be fitted or mis- fitted with glass from the present chapel, which will be turned to secular use. A little more than a century ago Gray's Inn was quite on the out- skirts of London,* ' with an uninterrupted prospect of the neighbouring fields as far as Highgate and Hampstead.' Centuries before the Great Fire, carved shields * Dodsley's 'London,' 1761, vol. iii., p. 58. Various Crests and Coats of Arms. 135 of arms were doubtless common in London on public buildings and the houses of great people, as decorations, and as guides to the unlettered class, which then formed a vast majority of the popula- tion. Sometimes at any rate, in the earlier days these arms were not carved in stone, but painted and hung out, as we learn from the evidence of the poet Chaucer* in the Scrope and Grosvenor dispute, which also gives us an interesting glimpse of the early history of one of our noble families. He says that, in walking up Friday Street, he once saw a sign hung out with ' arms painted and put there by a knight of the County of Chester, called Sir Robert Grosvenor ' ; and that was the first time he ever heard of Sir Robert Grosvenor, or his ancestors, or anyone bearing the name of Grosvenor. The first armorial shield to which I shall refer under this heading is from a public building, and though comparatively modern it should be specially interesting to all citizens of London. I allude to the Royal Arms f a well-executed piece of sculpture which is used as the sign of a public- * 'Scrope and Grosvenor Roll,' i. 178. t The gatehouse had only been finished in the year 1728, having replaced a previous one damaged by a great fire on the bridge in 1725. Mist's Weekly Journal, for Saturday, September II, tells us that about sixty houses were consumed on that occasion. 136 London Signs and Inscriptions. house rebuilt quite recently, on the south side of Newcomen Street, late King Street, Southwark. This was taken from the gatehouse at the Southwark end of old London Bridge, which was pulled down in 1760, in consequence of an Act of Parliament passed four years previously, for the destruction of the buildings on London Bridge and the widening of the roadway. King Street was then being made from High Street to Snow Fields, through the former Axe and Bottle Yard, and these arms, Various Crests and Coats of Arms. 137 having been bought by Mr. Williams, a stone- mason who was employed, in the construction of King Street, were placed by him more or less in their present position. In a view of the bridge- gate engraved for Noorthouck's ' History of London ' (p. 543), the arms appear with the in- scription, G ii R, afterwards changed to G in, as we now see it. There are still a few carved shields of arms in London, dating from the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries, which marked the property of private individuals. Until quite recently the district known as Cloth Fair and Bartholomew Close, in the immediate neighbourhood of the Church of St. Bartholomew the Great, was distinguished by its air of picturesque antiquity. Some quaint old houses still remain; on one of them No. 22, Cloth Fair is to be seen a relic which carries us back almost to the time of the dissolution of the monasteries. This is the armorial shield of Richard Rich, who was made a peer in 1 547 ; or more likely, perhaps, of one of his immediate descendants. It is sur- mounted by a coronet, and has been blazoned thus : gules, a chevron between three crosses botonnee or.* The founder of the Rich family was a mercer in the City, and Sheriff in the year * Burke's 'Armory General.' This seems correct; but Burke's 'Extinct Peerages' gives it, 'gules, a chevron be- tween three cross crosslets or.' 138 London Signs and Inscriptions. 1442 ; it was his great-grandson Richard who, temp. Henry VIII., became Solicitor -General, Speaker of the House of Commons, and who took so scandalous a part in the trial and con- viction of Sir Thomas More. In 1 544 the site of St. Bartholomew's Priory was granted by the King to his favourite, there described as Sir Richard Rich, knight, in consideration of the sum of ^1,064 us. jd., as appears from the original deed ; and here he is said to have lived in the Prior's mansion as Lord Chancellor. The tolls of the fair* were also granted to him. It was pro- vided that the church within the Great Close was to be a parish church for ever, and vacant ground adjoining it on the west side, 87 feet in length by 60 feet in breadth, where the destroyed nave had stood, was to be taken for a church- yard, the site of the fair being no longer used as a burial-ground. Sir Richard Rich was made a baron in 1547. Queen Mary revoked the grant in his favour, and placed here a convent of Preaching Friars, who * From early days, however, the fair had increased be- yond church limits, and the City had acquired certain rights. In the fourth edition of Stow, 1633, we are told how, on Bartholomew Eve, the Aldermen in their violet gowns met the Lord Mayor and Sheriffs at the Guildhall chapel, and how they rode into Cloth Fair, and made a proclamation, riding back through the churchyard and home to the Lord Mayor's house. Various Crests and Coats of Arms, i 3 9 under Father Person began to rebuild the nave of the church, but they were turned out when Elizabeth came to the throne, and the following year there was a fresh grant to the purchaser, by the title of Richard Lord Rich, and his heirs, ' in free socage.' The monastery with its precincts had been enclosed by a wall which contained, besides the numerous monastic offices, a large garden and court, fifty-one tenements, a mulberry garden (one of the first planted in this country), and the famous churchyard wherein had been held, since the time of Henry I., the great annual gathering for clothiers and drapers. This began to fall ofF, as a cloth fair,* towards the end of the sixteenth century, but continued to be more or less of a London carnival, and in some sort lingered on as late as the year 1855. The first Lord Rich died in 1560 ; during his lifetime little building seems to have taken place, for in Ralph Aggas's map, which is considered to be of about this date, the space north of the church has no houses upon it, and the priory wall abutting on Long Lane still exists. Very soon, however, the land was turned to more profitable account, and we find Stow "J* writing at the end of the century : * In Allen's 'History of London,' published in 1827, vol. iii., p. 658, we are told that the district called Cloth Fair was still chiefly occupied by clothiers, tailors, etc. t Stow's ' Survey of London,' edited by W. J. Thorns, p. 141. 140 London Signs and Inscriptions. ' Now notwithstanding all proclamations of the prince, and also the Act of Parliament, in place of booths within this churchyard (only Jet out in the fair time, and closed up all the year after), be many large houses built, and the north wall towards Long Lane taken down, a number of tenements are there erected for such as will give great rents.' The houses in the street now called Cloth Fair probably followed the old line of booths. The first Lord Rich's grandson Robert, who made such an ill-assorted marriage with Lady Penelope Devereux, Sidney's 'Stella/ was raised to the dignity of Earl of Warwick in 1618. His second son Henry was created Baron Kensington and Earl of Holland. The titles were merged in the next generation, and became extinct in the year 1759, when the tolls of the fair descended to the Edwardes family, cousins of the Riches, in whose favour the Kensington title was revived. Lord Kensington sold these tolls to the Corporation of London in 1839. Before we quit this quaint neighbourhood let us peep into the venerable Church of St. Bar- tholomew the Great. What an idea it gives one of the splendour of the old priory church, of which it formed but a part, little more than the choir remaining ! Much ' restoration ' is in progress here, and it is difficult at a glance to distinguish between the genuine Norman work Various Crests and Coats of Arms. 1 4 1 and the ingenious nineteenth-century Norman which has lately been added. Fortunately the fine perpendicular oriel on the south side of the triforium has so far escaped intact. It was prob- ably inserted by Prior Bolton (who died in 1532), and has on it, carved in stone, expressive of his name, a tun pierced by a bird-bolt, or arrow. The rebus occurs again on the spandrel of a Tudor doorway which leads into the modern vestry. This Prior seems to have taken pleasure in building, and in seeing his name thus perpetu- ated.* He reconstructed the manor-house of Canonbury, Islington, north of the parish church, which had been given to the convent by Ralph de Berners, and as early as the year 1253 is enu- merated among his possessions. Here is also to be found the Prior's rebus, on a doorway inside No. 6, Canonbury Place, which, with No. 7, is now used for a girls' school. It also formerly appeared cut in stone on two parts of the wall originally connected with the old brick tower, which is so picturesque and so full of interesting associations. * The rebus was invented before Prior Bolton's time ; as early as 1443 the White Friars had a grant of the ' Hospi- tium vocatum Le Bolt en ton,' in Fleet Street. This became a great coaching inn ; the site is marked by a railway office. The tun occurs in the rebus of Beckington, of Castleton, and of Bishop Langton in Winchester Cathedral. 142 London Signs and Inscriptions. It is, however, generally thought that the tower, as we see it, was built under the direction of Sir John Spencer, the wealthy merchant, after- wards the purchaser of Crosby Hall, who bought this place from Thomas Lord Wentworth in 1570. Eleven years afterwards Queen Elizabeth visited him here, and towards the end of the century he made great alterations in the building. Two of the rooms attached to Canonbury Tower are finely panelled from floor to ceiling ; the very handsome carved chimney-piece in the upper room bears the arms of Sir John Spencer. Canonbury House is now occupied by a Consti- tutional Club. Parts of the building have been modernized of late years, but the panelled rooms are still much in their original state. The pretty strip of garden at the back contains fruit-trees which Goldsmith may have seen, when he lodged here in the summer of 1767. We must not forget that the original building occupied a considerable part of Canonbury Place. We have evidence of this in Prior Bolton's rebus at No. 6 ; and traces of Sir John Spencer's work are to be seen in this and the adjoining houses, where there are no less than five richly-stuccoed ceilings, two of them with the date 1599. Here also, inside the entrance, are the arms* of Sir * They were drawn and described for Nelson's ' History of Islington,' 2nd edition, 1823. Various Crests and Coats of Arms. 143 Walter Dennys, carved in oak. They were for- merly over a fireplace, and when moved to their present position, many years ago, the following inscription was placed underneath : 'These were the arms of Sir Walter Dennys of Gloucester- shire, who was made a Knight by bathing at the creation of Arthur, Prince of Wales in Nov. 1489, and died Sept. I, 21 Henry VIE., and was buried at the church of Olviston in Gloucestershire. He married Margaret, daughter of Sir Rich Weston, Km., to which family Canonbury House for- merly belonged. The carving is therefore 280 years old.' The latter part of the inscription is clearly erro- neous, as the manor-house was not in lay hands till after the dissolution. Mr. Nelson thought that these arms were placed here by some descendant of the Dennys or Weston family, who might after- wards have lived at Canonbury perhaps one of the Comptons, Joan, a daughter of Sir Walter, having married into that family. The Comptons did not come into possession till 1610, when Wil- liam, the second lord, succeeded Sir John Spencer, having married Elizabeth, his daughter and sole heiress. I need hardly say that they were the direct ancestors of the present Marquis of North- ampton, who still owns the property. A famous galleried inn, the Old Bell,* Holborn, * I have not been able to find proof positive that a Fowler owned this property, The house, though of respectable antiquity, is much more modern than the arms. By a lease 144 London Signs and Inscriptions. now almost unique of its kind, has, imbedded in the front, the sculptured arms of Fowler of Islington, namely, azure, on a chevron argent, between three herons or, as many crosses formee gules. They are surmounted by an esquire's helmet, with a crest, which seems to be an eagle's head with a sprig of some sort in its beak. The first man of this family who made any mark was Thomas Fowler, lord of the manor of Bernersbury* or Barnsbury, Islington, in 1 548. From him descended Sir Thomas Fowler, knight, Deputy Lieutenant of the county of Middlesex, and apparently one of the jurors at the trial of Sir Walter Raleigh, at Win- chester, in 1603. If the tradition of Sir Walter's residence at Islington is true, they must have Jived within a stone's throw of each other at one time. dated 1722, a messuage called the Bell, with its stables, etc., and two other messuages or tenements on either side, ad- joining and fronting High Street, Holborn, 'formerly one capital mansion or messuage called the Bell or Blue Bell Inn, together with all shops, stables, and other appurtenances,' were bought by Christ's Hospital for ^2,113 155. Together with the adjoining house, it still belongs to the Hospital. There is a rent-charge of 453. (originally 30 sacks of char- coal) on the Blue Bell Inn, for the use of the poor of St. Andrews, in which parish the houses are situated ; it was be- queathed by Richard Hunt, who died in 1559. * Named after the Berners family, who held the estate from the Conquest till 1422, when it passed by marriage to John Bourchier, created Lord Berners. Various Crests and Coats of Arms. 145 Before being knighted, Thomas Fowler had mar- ried Jane, daughter of Gregory Charlet, citizen and tallow-chandler, who bore him two sons. His second wife, to whom he was married at St. James's Church, Clerkenwell, on March 17, 1604, was Mary, widow of Sir John Spencer, of Althorp not to be confused with his neighbour the rich merchant of Crosby Place and Canonbury, who lived on till 1609. His elder son, also Thomas, was made a baronet, but the title died out with him in 1656. The Fowlers dwelt in a house in Cross Street, Islington, a little beyond the church, which still existed a generation ago. The ceiling of a room on the first-floor was decorated with the arms and initials of Queen Elizabeth, also the initials /,. At the end of the garden, which had been of consider- able extent, there was a small brick building,* intended, perhaps, for a summer-house or porter's lodge. It had on the west side, cut in stone, the Fowler arms, bearing an esquire's helmet, ap- parently similar in all respects to those I have described, except that no mention is made of a crest. In another part of the building were the arms of Sir Thomas Fowler the younger, with his initials and the date 1655. They were distinguished by having an escutcheon charged with a sinister * In Nelson's 'History of Islington,' 2nd edition, 1823, facing p. 260, there is an illustration of the building. 10 146 London Signs and Inscriptions. hand, couped at the wrist the arms of Ulster and ensign of baronetcy. It is curious that the daughter and heiress of this Sir Thomas Fowler married a Fisher, to whom descended the manor of Barnsbury, and that the first Fowler who settled in Islington had married a Herne or Heron. The arms of that family appeared in a window of the old house in Cross Street. When visiting the Guildhall Museum, not long since, I was reminded of another Islington family, not distinguished, but still perhaps worthy of mention. A stone tablet, said to be from an old house in Upper Street, Islington, has on it the inscription : ^ RVFFORDS BVILDINGS 1688, and a similar inscription is still to be seen on No. i a, Compton Street, Clerkenwell. The fact is, there were two groups of houses thus named, both of which were built by Captain Nicholas Ruffbrd, who was churchwarden at Islington in 1 690, and died in 1711, aged seventy-one. Nelson mentions inscriptions to him and several of his family in the churchyard. In the Islington Rufford's Buildings Dr. W. Berriman lived for some years. He was a famous divine, and became Fellow of Eton College. His death took place in 1749-50. Some pages back, in my description of the sign of the Two Negroes' Heads, I had occasion to allude to Clare Market. Before that neighbour- Various Crests and Coats of Arms. 147 hood is quite transformed, I should like to say a few words about it and its connection with the Holies family. An old coat of arms and an old inscrip- tion will serve as pegs on which to hang my story. In Seymour's 'Survey,' 1754 (written by John Mottley), we are told that Clement's Inn* the fancied scene of Shallow's exploits descended to the Earls of Clare from their ancestor Sir William Holies, or Hollis as he spells it Lord Mayor of London in 1539. The name of John, Baron Holies of Houghton, appears as a parishioner of St. Clement Danes in the rate-book for the year 1617. In 1624 he was created Earl of Clare. There seems to have been no concealment about the fact that his titles were bought : the first, obtained through the influence of the Duke of Buckingham, had cost him no less a sum than 10,000 ; for the second he is said to have paid an additional 5,000. It is curious that this latter dignity had some years before been refused to Robert Rich, afterwards created Earl of Warwick, who had set his heart on it (and is said to have also * The pretty garden of Clement's Inn is now being built over, and the garden house will soon disappear behind bricks and mortar. The black kneeling figure supporting a sundial, which formerly decorated the lawn (having been brought from Italy and presented to the Inn by one of the Earls of Clare), was sold by the Ancients in 1884 for twenty guineas, and has now found its way to Inner Temple Gardens. 148 London Signs and Inscriptions. paid money for his earldom), the Crown lawyers having solemnly declared that it was a title peculiar to the Royal Family, and not to be borne by a sub- ject. The princely mansion of John Holies,* second Earl, was at the end of Clare Court, or Clare House Court, on the east side of Drury Lane, next to Blackmore Street. In Hatton's time (1708) it had been turned into tenements. This second Earl founded Clare Market, f which stands, or stood, on what was previously called Clement's Inn Fields. License had already been granted by Charles I. to Thomas York in 1640, and to the antiquary Gervase Holies^ in 1642, to make streets and to erect houses on this property. One of the provisions in the Act passed in 1657, 'for the Preventing of the Multiplicity of Buildings in and about the Suburbs of London,' expressly states that John, Earl of Clare, having erected several new buildings * Lord Clarendon says of this second Earl : ' He was a man of honour and of courage, and would have been an excellent person if his heart had not been so much set upon keeping and improving his estate.' t From Mr. Austin Dobson I learn that Hogarth engraved a view of Clare Market. \ He wrote MS. memoirs of the Holies family, afterwards transcribed by Arthur Collins. This Act appears to have been a dead letter. In 1580 Queen Elizabeth had issued an equally vain proclamation to prevent the erection of new buildings within three miles of the City gates. Various Crests and Coats of Arms. 149 and improved the property, ' from henceforth for ever hereafter, on every Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday, in every week, there shall be a common open and free market, held in Clement's Inn Fields aforesaid, where the said buildings useful for a market are erected, and in the places near unto adjoining, and to enjoy all liberties, customs and emoluments incident usually and of right belong- ing and appertaining to markets.' It seems, from the ' Harleian Miscellany,' that the City authorities at one time began a lawsuit laying claim to this property, but they failed in their attempt. The market was at first usually called the New Market. The streets in this neighbourhood are several of them named after the family of the former possessors: as Clare Street, where, on Saturdays, there is still something like a market ; Denzell Street, Holies Street, Houghton Street, Vere Street, and Gilbert Street and Passage. On a squalid house at the corner of this narrow opening, and facing the space lately cleared in what was the market, I have observed with interest a fine stone bas-relief of the Holies arms, surmounted by an earl's coronet, namely, ermine, two piles in point sable, and the motto ' Spes audaces adjuvat,' the supporters being a lion and that nondescript beast, a heraldic tiger, which is supposed to have a dragon's head. The date beneath is 1659, showing 150 London Signs and Inscriptions. that they were put up for John Holies, second Earl of Clare, no doubt on a building in the market-place. Another curious relic is to be seen let into the wall of a public-house called the Royal Yacht, at the corner of Denzell Street and Stanhope Street. This is a stone tablet, the in- scription on which is here given, and which speaks for itself. Sb called bu Gilbert Earle of Clare in Memo ry of his Vncfe Denied Lord Holies Ulho ded February y"J7"V679 Aged 5/years:3:mcntns) a great honour to his >- name and the exact pal-erne of his Fathers !* Montt' Hnn n re areal- Mentt->h 5 arle of Clare Rebuilt byH Y COCKER , 79 6 It was erected by Gilbert, third Earl, in memory of his father's second brother Denzil ' a man of great courage and of as great pride,' says Claren- don, who, during the early troubles between Charles I. and his Parliament, took a leading part on the popular side. On March 2, 1629, when the Speaker was about to adjourn the House in obedience to the King's order, Denzil Holies helped to keep him in the chair by force, for Various Crests and Coats of Arms. 151 which conduct he, with five other members, was committed to the Tower and fined 1,000 marks. After many vicissitudes Holies welcomed the resto- ration of Charles II., was created a peer, and sent as Ambassador to Paris, where his pugnacity and his ignorance of the French language* were alike remarkable. Mr. Wheatley tells us that in 1644 he had been living in Covent Garden, under the name of Colonel Holies ; in 1666, and after, he was in a house at the west corner of the north piazza, which Sir Kenelm Digby had previously occupied. The Holies family became extinct in the male line on the death of John, fourth Earl of Clare, who had married Lady Margaret Cavendish, a great heiress, and was created Duke of New- castle. This nobleman, one of the richest subjects in the kingdom, died in 1711, from the effects of a fall while hunting at Welbeck, leaving an only daughter, from whom is descended the present Duke of Portland. Some years before his death, namely, in May, 1705, still clinging to the neighbourhood with which his family had been so long connected, the last Holies in the male line bought from the Marquis of Powis, for the large sum of ^7,000, the house at the north-west angle * M. Jusserand gives amusing instances in his excellent new work on ' A French Ambassador at the Court of Charles II.' 152 London Signs and Inscriptions. of Lincoln's Inn Fields, now numbered 66 and 67, which touches Great Queen Street, and is still known as Powis or Newcastle House. The Duke left the greater part of his possessions, including this house, to his nephew, Thomas Pelham, the well - known political leader in the time of George II., who took the name of Holies, and was also created Duke of Newcastle. Here he lived and intrigued, and this was the scene of his levees, so graphically described by Lord Chesterfield. If those silent walls could speak, they might tell us many strange tales. Newcastle House had been built in 1686 by Captain William Winde, or Wynne, as Campbell calls him in the ' Vitruvius Britannicus ' a pupil of Gerbier, and perhaps also of Webb, who was in his turn a pupil of Inigo Jones. The structure has unfortunately been much altered for the worse since an engraving of it was made for Strype's Stow (edition of 1754). It replaced an older house which had been burnt to the ground on October 26, 1684, the family escaping with difficulty. William Herbert, first Marquis and titular Duke of Powis, for whom the house was built, suffered severely owing to his attachment to the cause of James II. He accompanied the King into exile, his estates were, in part at any rate, con- fiscated, and he died at St. Germains in 1696. In some way this house escaped the general wreck ; Various Crests and Coats of Arms. 1 5 3 perhaps it was alienated for a few years. Strype says that * it was sometime the seat of Sir John Somers, late Lord Chancellor of England ' ; and Pennant adds, ' It is said that Government had it once in contemplation to have bought and settled it officially on the great seal. At that time it was inhabited by the Lord Keeper, Sir Nathan Wright.' Whatever the circumstances may have been, it came into the hands of the second Marquis, who before its sale to the Duke of Newcastle had already built himself another house* in Great Ormond Street, on the site of which is Powis Place. The west side of Lincoln's Inn Fields shows interesting specimens of architecture. Lindsey House, though much altered, is an undoubted work of Inigo Jones. It was built probably about the year 1640, for Robert Bertie, firsc Earl of Lindsey, who died a hero's death at the battle of Edgehill. The fourth Earl having been created Duke of Ancaster, it was for a time called Ancaster House. Hatton, in 1708, describes it as ' a handsome building of the Ionic order, and (in front a) strong beautiful court-gate, consisting of six fine, spacious brick piers, with curious ironwork * There is a view of it in Strype's Stow (1754.), which shows a sculptured phoenix over the doorway. The phoenix in the porch of No. 40, Great Ormond Street suggests the possibility of some connection with this house. 154 London Signs and Inscriptions. between them, and on the piers are placed very large and beautiful vases.' The stone facade is now plastered and painted, the entrance door widened, the house divided into two. Inside, a graceful mantelpiece and an alcove evidently belong to the last century. Mr. Alfred Marks, in a valuable note on the house, ascribes these architectural features to Ware, who was a great admirer oflnigo Jones, and in 1743 published some of his designs. The alcove is adorned by a coat of arms belonging to the Shiffner family, a member of which, as appears from the Gentleman s Magazine, resided in Lincoln's Inn Fields in the year 1759. South of Lindsey House, there are other build- ings which were probably designed by Inigo Jones. From the house which is over the archway leading into Sardinia Street, one may trace the Rose and Fleur-de-lys of Charles I. and his Queen on the pilasters. They are now mostly plastered and painted, but it may be remarked that in the ex- treme south-west corner of the Fields, behind other more modern structures, stands a house the upper part of which is outside in its original condition. It is of red brick, the bases, bands and capitals of the pilasters and the architraves being of stone, and it has, like the others, the rose and fleur-de-lys in relief. But the best-preserved specimen, externally, of work of this character now existing in London is the harmonious red-brick building on the south Various Crests and Coats of Arms. 155 side of Great Queen Street, hard by, which was either designed by Inigo Jones or by Webb under his influence. Let those who wish to study its fine proportions and pleasant details lose no time, for an ominous board has appeared in front, and much I fear that its days are numbered. Can nothing be done to save it ? Mr. Wheatley says that Thomas Hudson, the portrait-painter (Rey- nolds's master), lived in this house, which is now divided and numbered 55 and 56. It had almost certainly been occupied by Sir Godfrey Kneller. CHAPTER VII. MISCELLANEOUS SIGNS, DATES, AND INSCRIP- TIONS, ETC. ' Many things of worthy memory.' SHAKESPEARE : Taming of the Shrew. I SHALL close my account with a few mis- cellaneous signs and inscriptions which I could not appropriately fit in elsewhere. Several eminent banking firms carefully preserve the signs which were used by them before their houses were numbered ; but they have been so ably described by Mr. Hilton Price and others, that little more need be said. The Mary-gold is in the front shop of Messrs. Child and Co.'s premises, Fleet Street ; it is of oak, the ground stained green, with a sun and a gilt border : the motto under- neath is, ' Ainsi mon ame/ The Three Squirrels of Messrs. Gosling are worked in iron and attached to the bars which protect their central window, and the original sign of copper is preserved in the front office. From Mr. Price I learn that as Miscellaneous Signs, Dafes, Inscriptions. 157 early as the year 1684, and perhaps earlier, James Chambers kept a goldsmith's shop at the Three Squirrels over against St. Dunstan's Church, Fleet Street ; and it is a curious fact that one family of Chambers bears the three squirrels in its arms. Hoare's Golden Bottle hangs over the doorway of their banking-house. Sir Richard Colt Hoare thought it was a barrel sign adopted by James Hore, of Cheapside, because his father, Ralph, was a member of the Coopers' Company. More likely, however, it was a sign of the same description as the Black Jack and the Leathern Bottle, of which a genuine specimen from the corner of Charles Street, Leather Lane, has lately found its way into the Guildhall Museum. Unfortunately, the Grass- hopper the old sign of Messrs. Martin and Co., in Lombard Street has not been preserved. It was the crest of Sir Thomas Gresham, who is believed to have here carried on his business. A most interesting history of the house has lately been written by Mr. J. B. Martin, one of the partners. A quaint and charming sign is the little carved figure of a naval officer taking an observation the Wooden Midshipman of Dombey and Son. He may still be seen in the Minories, having migrated from Leadenhall Street some years ago. Not long since the owners sent him for change of air to the Naval Exhibition. The figure and its associations form the subject of a 158 London Signs and Inscriptions. capital paper by Mr. J. Ashby-Sterry in All the Tear Round for October 29, 1881. At the corner of Charlotte Street and the Black- friars Road there is a figure of a dog overturning a three-legged iron pot, in its eagerness to get at the contents ; this is the sign of a wholesale iron- monger's establishment said to date from 1783. The Dog's Head in the Pot, as it is called, seems, of late years at any rate, to have been usually adopted by members of this trade, because the vessel represented is of iron. The sign is said to indicate a dirty, slovenly housewife. Larwood and Hotten mention a coarse woodcut of the beginning of last century (to judge from the costumes, copied from an older original) which represents two old women in a disorderly room or kitchen. One of them wipes a plate with the bushy tail of a large dog whose head is buried in a pot. Under it are the lines : ' All sluts behold, take view of me, Your own good husbandry to see.' A Dutch saying, to anyone late for dinner, is that he will find the dog in the pot ; in other words, that the remains of the dinner have been handed over to the dog to finish. The Dog's Head in the Pot is a very old London sign, being mentioned in a tract from the press of Wynkyn de Worde called ' Cocke Miscellaneous Signs, Dates, Inscriptions. 159 Lorell's Bote.' The person who dwelt at this sign was therein described as ' Annys Angry with the croked buttock by her crafte a breche maker.' A later notice occurs in the will (dated September 3, 1563) of Thomas Johnson, citizen and haberdasher, of London, who gave ^13 45. annually to the high- ways between Barkway and Dog's Head in the Pot, otherwise called ' Horemayd,' probably a house of entertainment in the parish of Great or Little Hormead, in Hertfordshire, by the side of the road from Barkway to London. At a house in Westgate Street, Gloucester, some beautifully- carved Tudor panels have lately come to light. One of them has on it a dog or leopard eating out of a three-legged pot. A seventeenth-century trade-token, issued from Red Cross Street, and another from Old Street, St. Luke's, have the de- vice of the Dog's Head in the Pot. A medallion in plaster or terra-cotta, which looked as if it might have been copied from a classical coin, was till lately to be seen on the gable of a little fishmonger's shop in Cheyne Walk. This, though a humble specimen of its class, be- longed to a style of decoration once common. I have before me a view, dated 1792, of a house on Tower Hill with similar medallions. Sometimes the heads of Roman Emperors were thus placed, sometimes the cardinal virtues or other emblematic figures. In the third edition of Stow, by Anthony 160 London Signs and Inscriptions. Munday, occurs the following passage, descriptive of Aldgate : ' The old ruinous Gate being taken downe, and order provided for a new foundation, divers very ancient peeces of Romane coyne were found among the stones and rubbish, which, as Mr. Martin Bond (a Worshipful Citizen, and one of the Surveyors of the worke) told me, two of them (according to their true forme and figure) he caused to be carved on stone, and fixed on eyther side of the Gates Arch without, eastward.' These coins were of the Emperors Trajan and Diocletian. Martin Bond laid the foundation-stone of the new gate in 1607. The little house in Cheyne Walk was formerly a freehold with the right of pasturage on Chelsea Common ; it was pulled down in October, 1892. I have drawn it for the frontispiece of this volume ; the lower part appears in a delightful etching by Whistler, called * The Fish-shop.' One of the most interesting signs in existence belongs to my friend Mr. F. Manley Sims. It does not, however, strictly belong to London, having been brought from Poole some years ago ; its earlier history has yet to be discovered. This is a doctor's signboard, excellently carved, with figures in high relief. It is divided into compartments : in the centre more important than the' rest is the doctor himself, in Jacobean costume, his potions ranged on shelves behind him ; around, in seven compartments, are represented various operations Miscellaneous Signs, Dates, Inscriptions. 161 of surgery ; and below, in relief, appear the words from Ecclesiasticus, * Altissimus creavit de terra medicynam et vir prudens non abhorebit illam.' Anno Domini 1623. There are traces of paint and gilding ; the whole is enclosed within an orna- mental border, and has a highly decorative effect. Somewhat akin to the sculptured street signs are the tablets on which are inscribed the names of the streets, and often the dates of their building or completion. They have historical value where, as is not unfrequently the case, they record a name now in danger of being forgotten, and some of them are designed with a good deal of taste. So many of these tablets remain that I shall not attempt a list, but shall only mention a few good examples. One of the oldest is in Great Chapel Street, Westminster, and is inscribed : 'This is Chappeil Street, 1656.' The following are instances of the inscriptions, which may help us to make out the history of the streets. On a corner house at the east side of Bering Street (late Union Street), Oxford Street, is a stone inscribed, 'Sheffield Street, 1721.' Curiously enough, in Horwood's Map of 1799, and in another issued in 1800, the name is given as Shepherd Street, so that here we have four changes in 1 70 years. On a modern house at the south-east corner of Danvers Street, Cheyne Walk, much of which is now cleared away, there is a ii 162 London Signs and Inscriptions. stone, supported by brackets, with a pediment which tells us that ' This is Danvers Street, begun in y e year 1696 by Benjamin Stallwood.' Danvers House, hard by, was not pulled down till 1716. May's Buildings, on the east side of St. Martin's Lane, have the name, and date 1739. Mr. J. T. Smith, in ' Nollekens and his Times,' tells us that they were built by Mr. May, who ornamented the front of No. 43, St. Martin's Lane, a few doors off, where he resided. His house is still there ; it has pretty cut brick pilasters, and a cornice, and is now used as a restaurant. The archway which leads into Sardinia Street, under one of the old houses on the west side of Lincoln's Inn Fields, is inscribed above the keystone on each side, ' Duke Streete, 1648.' This street was renamed in 1878, after the chapel there, once belonging to the Sardinian minister, which was demolished in the riots of June 2, 1780, but shortly afterwards rebuilt, and is now known as the chapel of SS. Anselm and Cecilia. Here Fanny Burney was married, in 1793, to General D'Arblay. A stone tablet, which has on it * Nassau Street in Whettens Buildings, 1734,' is still to be seen at the south-west corner of Nassau Street. In Strype's Map of 1720 the ground here, facing Gerrard Street, is occupied by a large mansion with a garden at the back, Nassau Street not being yet made. Some of these tablets are well designed ; a very Miscellaneous Signs, Dates, Inscriptions. 163 nice example, though not an early one, is placed above the first-floor of No. 16, Great James Street, Bedford Row. It is an irregular convex shield, surrounded by elaborate scroll-work of a style not uncommon about the time of its erection, namely, in 1721. As a typical specimen it has been drawn for this work. James Street, Haymarket, is also marked by a stone with ornamental border, above a first-floor window of what is left of the old Tennis Court, which is said to have been connected with the noted Gaming House and Shaver's Hall. The date on it namely, 1673, indicates, I suppose, the year in which the street was built or finished ; Shaver's Hall existed some time previously. The Tennis Court ceased to be used in 1866, to the regret of many. In the year 1887 the upper part was rebuilt ; but from the tablet downwards the original walls, though stuccoed over, remain. Mr. Julian Marshall says that in this court Charles and the Duke of York used frequently to play their 164 London Signs and Inscriptions. favourite game, and that the house, No. 17, at the south-western corner of James's Street and the Haymarket, is said to have been that through which the royal brothers used to pass, on their way to the Tennis Court.* It does not, however, appear that there was any contemporary evidence connecting them with it. From Mounf P|ear' In the region called Mount Pleasant, Gray's Inn Lane, not far from the new thoroughfare Rose- bery Avenue, there are two or three tablets of a different kind. Near the west end, between Nos. 5 5 and 56, is a plain square stone, with ' DORRINGTON STREET 1 720 'incised in Roman capitals. This stone is in a brick frame, with moulded hood, * 'Annals of Tennis,' 1878. Miscellaneous Signs, Dates, Inscriptions. 165 and projects from the frame about an inch and a half. Further east, on No. 41, nearly opposite the site of the prison, are two more tablets ; one, similar to that just described, has ' BAYNES STREET, 1737.' Over this is a far more elaborate example of cut or moulded brick, with a pediment. It has the inscription ' IN GOD is ALL OUR TRUST/ and below some marks or signs in relief (one of which appears to be a T-square), with the date 1737. The motto is similar to that of the Brewers' Company, and of the Tylers' and Bricklayers' Company ; with the latter I should think that the builder or first possessor may have had some con- nection. This last, being a house and not a street tablet, reminds me that there are scattered about here and there on the fronts of houses, initials and dates which by judi'cious treatment are made quite decorative. One of the prettiest was a little cut brick tablet on an old house No. 164, Union Street, Southwark lately destroyed, which 1 66 London Signs and Inscriptions. had on it beneath a pediment the initials w. H. in monogram, and the date 1701. Again, in Walbrook, on the west side, is a tablet merely dated 1668, with well-designed brackets and cornice. On a modern house No. 4, Tothill Street, Westminster called in 1885 the Cock, now the Aquarium Tavern, there is a stone on which are cut the date 1671, a heart-shaped mark, and the initials E. T. A. In 12 waibrooK 1850, when Peter Cunningham wrote his handbook, the old house was yet standing ; in it Thomas Southerne, the poet, had lodged, as pointed out by Mr. Hutton in his ' Literary Landmarks of London.' The heart has puzzled me ; a similar mark was formerly on a house in Peter Street, Westminster. Can it have been a parish mark? An undoubted device of this kind appears on a Miscellaneous Signs, Dates, Inscriptions. 167 house at the corner of West Street and Upper St. Martin's Lane, and consists of two ragged staves crossed, with the date 1691, and the initials s. G. F., which indicate the parish of St. Giles's in the Fields. A mark of the parish of St. Bride's, dated 1670, is in Robin Hood Court, Shoe Lane. At the corner of Artillery Street, Bishopsgate Without, and Sandys Row, soon to be improved away, there is a flat stone having fastened on it a piece of iron, shaped like a broad arrow, and below the date 1682. Is this a parish mark, or can it have been connected in any way with the old artillery ground the Tassel Close of an earlier time, when crossbow-makers used here to shoot at the popin- jay? In Strype's time 'divers worthy citizens' still frequented it for martial exercise. Of greater historic interest are the monogram of Henry VIII., the Tudor portcullis, and other devices carved on the spandrels of the arches which are under the gatehouse of St. James's Palace. A general description of the painted sign- boards of London has formed no part of the scheme of this book, because much has already been written on the subject, and it would be too extensive to treat satisfactorily in the limited space at my command. It may, how- ever, be useful to note a few signs of this kind still in situ. The Running Footman, of which there are two specimens in Hays Mews, 1 68 London Signs and Inscriptions, Charles Street, Berkeley Square, is particularly interesting on account of the costume, and because it is a record of the days when carriages moved at little more than a foot's pace,* and there were no police to regulate the traffic. It is supposed to date from about 1770. Such a servant as this would be singularly out of place in modern London ; but in the East, retainers of the same kind, who run in front and clear the way, still naturally form part of a great man's equipage. The Goat in Boots is to be seen in the Fulham Road in front of a public- house lately rebuilt. To Le Blond a Flemish painter, who lived at Chelsea was attributed the original design, which seems to have been painted or repainted by Morland. Since then, however, it has been daubed over again and again. Some in- genious person has conjectured that the sign origi- nated from a corruption of the Dutch words : ' der Goden Bode' (the messenger of the Gods), said to have been applied to Mercury, and to have been formerly used on houses in Holland, to denote that post-horses were to be obtained ; but this seems improbable, as the house in old deeds is called * Some of these servants, however, must have been ex- ceedingly active. In the London Evening Post for December 31, 1735, we are told that 'General Churchill's Running Footman ran against the Lady Molesworth's, from the upper end of St. James's Street to Edgworth Gate,' and won, per- forming the distance, computed to be about eleven miles, in an hour and five minutes. Miscellaneous Signs, Dates, Inscriptions. 169 the Goat. At the Ben Jonson tavern in Shoe Lane a curious old wooden panel is preserved, which bears on its two sides what are supposed to be portraits of 'rare Ben' ; as it is nailed against the wall, one side only is now visible. The person portrayed is a lean hungry-looking man, the very reverse of the poet ; it seems likely, nevertheless, that this was the old signboard. A more ambi- tious effort is the full-length portrait of the Duke of Cumberland the hero of Culloden which is on a public-house at the corner of Bryanston Street and Great Cumberland Place, built about 1774. It is affixed to the wall in accordance with the law passed a short time previously. One is reminded of a letter by Horace Walpole to Conway, dated April 16, 1747, in which he thus moralizes : ' I observed how the Duke of Cumber- land's head had succeeded, almost universally, to Admiral Vernon's, as his head had left few traces of the Duke of Ormonde's. I pondered these things in my heart, and said unto myself all glory is but a sign.' Now that Hatchett's Hotel in Piccadilly has passed away, it is worth while to record that over the bar of the Restaurant on this site (rebuilt 1886) was to be seen the old painted signboard of a white horse with flowing mane and tail, and the inscription, 'The New White Horse Cellars, Abraham Hatched:.' Last year, owing to further alterations, this was removed. 170 London Signs and Inscriptions. The signs I have referred to are comparatively well known, but that of the Coach and Horses No. 49, St. John's Square, Clerkenwell has, I think, hitherto escaped observation. This is a large picture representing a lioness attacking one of the leaders of a mail-coach ; a yokel with a pitchfork, and a dog, advance intrepidly to the rescue. In the background is a wayside inn, in front a pond. The event depicted actually took place on October 20, 1816, and is described in 1 Cassell's Popular Natural History,' vol. ii., p. 119. It seems that the Exeter mail-coach was on ite way to London, and the driver had pulled up at Winter's-Low-Hut, seven miles from Salisbury, to deliver the bags, when one of his leaders was suddenly attacked by a ferocious animal, which proved to be a lioness. A large mastiff came to the rescue, but when she charged him he fled, and was pursued and killed about forty yards from where the coach was standing. It turned out that the lioness had escaped from a menagerie which was on its way to Salisbury Fair. She was eventually driven into a granary, carrying the dead mastiff in her teeth, and there secured by her keepers. A picture of this strange attack was long exhibited at the Egyptian Hall, Piccadilly ; of this picture I imagine the sign to be a copy, it seems too well done to have been painted expressly for the public-house to which it belongs. In the Miscellaneous Signs, Dates, Inscriptions. 171 course of 1889 a curious sign, the Whistling x o * O Oyster, disappeared from No. 13, Vinegar Yard, on the south side of Drury Lane Theatre. Here were formerly oyster and refreshment rooms, and it seems that about 1 840 Mr. Pearkes, the then proprietor, discovered among his stock an eccentric bivalve, which actually did produce a sort of whistling sound ; much custom for a time and many jokes resulting therefrom. In an early volume of Punch there is a fancy portrait of the whistling oyster. In the course of this work I have several times alluded to the Guildhall Museum, beneath the Guildhall Library, which is not known as it deserves. It contains not only sculptured signs, but a very valuable collection of objects of artistic and antiquarian interest, most of them from various parts of the city. The only drawbacks are that the crypt or room in which they are placed, being half underground, is very imperfectly lighted, and that the collection has not hitherto been catalogued. This latter defect will, however, I understand, be shortly remedied. Before de- scending let us glance at the statues which flank the entrance to the Guildhall Library and Museum from King Street. They are from the old College of Physicians in Warwick Lane one of Wren's buildings some remains of which still exist, incor- porated in the premises at the back of No. i, Newgate Street. These statues represent King Charles II. and 172 London Signs and Inscriptions. Sir John Cutler, a rich merchant whose avarice, handed down by Pope* and others, has become im- mortal. It seems that in 1675 Sir John a near relation of Dr. Whistler, the president expressed a wish to subscribe towards the rebuilding of the College of Physicians, which had been destroyed in the Great Fire, having previously stood at Amen Corner. When a deputation attended to thank him, he renewed his promise, and specified the part of the building for which he intended to pay. The theatre accordingly bore on its front towards Warwick Lane the inscription, ' Theatrum Cut- lerianum.' In the year 1680 statues in honour of the king and the knight were voted by members of the college. A certain amount of money must have been furnished, and some years afterwards Cutler advanced them more ; but after his death his executors, in 1699, claimed the whole with interest, the money pretended to be given, and that actually given, being alike set down as a loan in Cutler's books. The demand was compromised for ^2,000. The statue remained, but the college wisely obliterated the inscription which, in the warmth of its gratitude, it had placed beneath the * He is Volpone in Pope's 'Moral Essay': 'His grace's fate sage Cutler could foresee And well (he thought) advised him " Live like me." As well his grace replied, " Like you, Sir John ? That I can do, when all I have is gone." ' Miscellaneous Signs, Dates, Inscriptions. 173 figure : ' Omnis Cutleri cedat labor amphitheatre. ' Pennant* is responsible for the above account, per- haps overcoloured, which he gave on the authority of Dr. Richard Warren. Strype speaks of Sir John as a great benefactor to the college; he had nodoubt given largely to the Grocers' Company, of which he was warden, and a portrait of him is in their possession. I will now ask my readers to come with me to the Museum, which well repays a visit. I under- stand that the nucleus of it was formed in 1829, when various antiquities, discovered in digging the foundations of the then new Post Office in St. Martin's-le-Grand, the new London Bridge, and in the destruction of the Guildhall Chapel, were brought together ; but it has only of late years become important. I have already described the sculptured signs which here find a home ; let me now briefly call attention to other objects which seem to me especially interesting. There is an article on them in the City Press for September 5, 1891, to which I am indebted for several useful hints. The accumulation of earth and debris in the City is so great, that the present town is raised many feet above Roman London. Now that excavations for new buildings are carried down much deeper than formerly, valuable objects are not unfrequently brought to light. The Roman * ' Some account of London,' by Thos. Pennant, 3rd edition, pp. 372, 373. 174 London Signs and Inscriptions. antiquities in the Museum are many and impor- tant ; of these perhaps the most striking is a large piece of tessellated pavement from Bucklersbury, in almost perfect condition. It was found no less than 19 feet below the level of the roadway, on which account it is thought to be an early relic ot the Roman occupation. One of the good deeds of the much-abused Metropolitan Board of Works was the gift of this piece of pavement to the Corporation. In the course of excavations in the City no less than three bastions of the original wall have been discovered. The foundations of these were formed by masses of statuary, inscrip- tions, and other debris of earlier Roman buildings. A fine specimen is the statue of a Roman soldier, found at the bastion in Camomile Street a few years since. Then there is a sculptured lion fiercely attacking another animal, and many similar remains of equal or greater interest ; to describe them all in the briefest way would fill a chapter. About one other relic of the Roman occupa- tion I shall say a few words, because it appears to be an almost unique instance of a joke, written by a Roman with his own hand. This is a tile found in the Roman wall during the excavations for Cutler's Hall in Warwick Square. On it are the following words, evidently incised when it was still soft : ' Austalis, Dibusu vagatur sib cotidem,' which was thus translated by the .late Mr. Charles Miscellaneous Signs, Dates, Inscriptions. 175 Roach Smith : ' Austalis wanders off (from his work) by himself to the Gods every day.' The sentence is thought to apply to a workman who was in the habit of absenting himself at odd intervals, for purposes of prayer maybe or more likely of refreshment, and to have been written by a fellow workman. Of later objects, the various specimens of mediaeval skates are worth mentioning. Each one is fashioned out of the tibia of a horse. They have been found from time to time in the neigh- bourhood of Moorfields, and well exemplify the description written by Fitzstephen in the twelfth century, wherein he tells us that ' when the fen or moor which watereth the walls of the City on the north side, is frozen, many young men play upon the ice some tie bones to their feet, and shoving themselves by a little picked staff, do slide as quickly as a bird flieth through the air, or an arrow out of a crossbow.' Interesting also are the flat caps of burgesses, considered to be of the time of Henry VII., which were found in Finsbury, May, 1887, and exhibited to the members of the British Archaeological Association by Mr. J. W. Bailey. They resemble the flatter kind of Scotch caps, or the Basque caps, and have a peculiar little flap behind. Gold coins were discovered in the double rims of these caps, kept there for safety, no doubt ; one of them an angel, of the time of 176 London Signs and Inscriptions. Richard II. Then there is a fine collection oi Elizabethan graybeard jugs or bellarmines, the grotesque heads on them being caricatured from the cardinal of that name, who so strongly opposed the reformed religion. Among larger objects, a splendid fireplace from the old mansion in Lime Street which belonged to the Fishmongers' Com- pany, and on which Messrs. G. H. Birch and R. Phene Spiers drew up such a valuable monograph at the time of its destruction. An old stone conduit from South Molton Street is worth a glance. It has on it the City arms and the date 1627, and was found six feet below the pavement. There is interest of a kind, too, in the inscription from Pudding Lane, affixed in 1681 by over- zealous Protestants to the house of Farryner, the King's baker, where the Great Fire of London first began. This inscription was taken down in the reign of James II., replaced in that of William III., and finally removed about the middle of last century. It was found in the cellar and brought here when the house (latterly numbered 25) was pulled down in 1876. A few signs not sculptured are, I think, worth alluding to. One of the quaintest is composed of blue and yellow Dutch tiles, and was doubtless once fixed near the entrance of a coffee-house, but unfortunately no record of it has been preserved. It is about twenty inches high, and represents a Miscellaneous Signs, Dates, Inscriptions. 177 boy with long hair, in seventeenth-century costume, somewhat like that of the modern Bluecoat boys. He is standing, and pouring out coffee ; by his side is a table, with appliances for drinking, and tobacco pipes, and above, on a scroll, the words 4 DISH OF COFFEE BOY.' A sign of this kind in remarkable preservation, and finely executed, is the Cock and Bottle three to four feet high, and worked in blue and white Dutch tiles with an ornamental border which came from Cannon Street. The date of this sign is said to be about 1 700 ; the house to which it belonged formerly stood on the south side, and was pulled down in 1853, at the time of the Cannon Street alterations. A public-house (Nos. 94 and 96), still called the Cock and Bottle, occupies the site. A sign of a Dolphin which belongs to the earlier part of the eighteenth century was in 1890 presented by Messrs. Burrup, so long pleasantly connected with the Surrey Cricket Club. It is painted on copper, and comes from a shop on the south side of the old Royal Exchange, where an ancestor of the Burrup family was first established in 1730. A unique relic is the little plate of metal, inscribed as follows: ' Abraham Bartlett, who makes ye boulting mills and cloathes, dwells at the sign of the boulting mill at Thames Street, near Queenhith, London, 1678.' It is surmounted by a grotesque head, and fixed 12 178 London Signs and Inscriptions. on a thin piece of wood with a ring for hanging it up. The boulting-mill was used for sifting meal by shaking it backwards and forwards, boulting- cloth being a material of loose texture for the meal to pass through. Of doubtful origin is a classically designed figure of a boy in low relief, with foliated border, and the date 1633 ; the material of this is cast iron. Another curious relic is a wooden statuette of Time, with scythe and hour-glass, which formerly belonged to the clock in the church of St. Giles, Cripplegate. The inscription tells us that it was presented by the church- wardens, who in my opinion ought never to have removed it from the church for which it had been carved, where it was far more appropriately placed than it can possibly be here ; though of course one is glad that it is preserved. Last, not least, a very interesting stone bas- relief of doubtful origin, which purports to re- present Whittington and his cat, was bequeathed by the Rev. Canon Lysons. The figure in question is doubtless that of a boy carrying a little quadruped in his arms. The tablet to which it belongs seems to have been broken off on the side to the spectator's left, and therefore probably formed part of a larger piece of sculpture. This relic, which at a first glance seems to resemble a sculptured house-sign, was exhibited some years ago at a meeting of the Archaeological Institute. Miscellaneous Signs, Dates, Inscriptions. 179 Mr. Lysons stated on that occasion that it was dug up in Westgate Street, Gloucester. From a rent-roll of 1460, he had learned that in the said year Richard ' Whitynton,' lord of the manor of Staunton, possessed a house or houses, called ' Rotten Row, or Asschowellys-place ' ; and from a lease it appeared that the house, in the foun- dations of which the stone was found, stands exactly on the site of Asschowellys (in modern orthography Ashwell's) Place. The Richard Whit- tington here alluded to was great-nephew of the renowned Lord Mayor of London, living con- temporaneously with his famous namesake, the rent-roll above named having been made within thirty-seven years of Sir Richard's death. This is certainly a very singular coincidence, and if it could be proved that the tablet in question represented Whittington and his cat, we might consider that the tradition about him, which has delighted the childhood of so many thousands^ was really founded on fact. Mr. Lysons was strongly of that opinion ; he stated, however, that the house in Westgate Street, under which the tablet was found, besides being on the site of Ash- well's Place, is also on the site of a Roman temple and perhaps most impartial observers will be inclined to think that the costume of the figure, and the general style of the tablet in question, point rather to indifferent Roman than to fifteenth- century work. CHAPTER VIII. A FEW SUBURBAN SPAS. ' Of either sex whole droves together To see and to be seen flock thither, To drink and not to drink the water, And here promiscuously to chatter.' Islington Wells or the Threepenny Academy, 1691. IN connection with sculptured signs, and again when alluding to the arms of the Fowler family, and to Canonbury, I have had occasion to describe houses in Islington. I shall now take up the thread of my discourse, from the White Lion on the west side of the High Street, and ask the kind reader to explore with me the sites of some of the old places of entertainment nearer London. A short distance further south is the Angel, rebuilt in 1819. This was one of the picturesque old galleried inns which have now become almost extinct. Close at hand, on the opposite side of the way, is the old Red Lion tavern, very much rejuvenated ; it puts forward a bold claim to date from the year 1415. On the gables are shields, A Few Suburban Spas. 181 apparently modern, with lions in relief. Seventy or eighty years ago this house stood almost alone on the high-road. Here Tom Paine was said to have written his ' Rights of Man/ and the tradition is that Goldsmith, Thomson, nay even the great Dr. Johnson, visited it. In the middle distance of Hogarth's picture of ' Evening,' there is a house, supposed to be the old Red Lion, which shows how rural were its then surroundings. The scene is laid in front of the Myddleton's Head also at that time apparently a country wayside inn, which, says Pinks, had been built in 1614. A portrait of the worthy founder of the New River Company projects by way of sign from the gable. This house stood on the south side of Sadler's Wells Theatre, from which it was separated by the New River. Malcolm has recorded that in 1803 it was still picturesque. He says: 'A few paces northwards (from Islington Spa) conduct the passenger under a portrait of Sir Hugh Myddle- ton (tolerably well painted), who faces his river adorned with tall poplars, graceful willows, sloping banks, and flowers.' How changed is now the scene ! The trees have long since perished as utterly as the anglers,* * the noble swans ' and water-fowl, of an earlier time ; and Sir Hugh * In the Public Advertiser for Wednesday, April 21, 1775, it is stated that ' a trout was catched in the New River, near Sadler's Wells, which weighed eight pounds and a half.' 1 82 London Signs and Inscriptions. would no longer face his once pleasant stream, which in its old age has disappeared from sight, and taken refuge under ground. In 1831 the Sir Hugh Myddleton tavern replaced the former house of entertainment. This, in its turn, has now ceased to exist, having been pulled down, with other houses in Myddleton Place, to make room for the new thoroughfare* from the Angel, Islington, to Holborn Town Hall, opened July 9, 1892, under the name of Rosebery Avenue. One of the leading characteristics of London citizens of the seventeenth and eighteenth cen- turies was their taste for frequenting public gardens and houses of amusement in the suburbs. Many of these were originally health-resorts ' spas ' or * wells,' they were called, from the springs of mineral water which had formed the chief attraction. In such places the northern suburbs abounded, and the parish of Clerkenwellf might be considered * This roadway is 1,173 yards in length, and has cost .353,526, but the amount will be diminished by the sale of unused lands. Running under it is a subway for the convey- ance of electric lighting, etc., high enough for a man to walk through. t The parish derived its name from a holy well, at which the parish clerks of London used annually to perform a miracle play. Its site was marked by a pump near the south-east corner of Ray Street, an illustration of which is given in Wilkinson's ' Londina Illustrata.' The well still exists a few feet to the north, covered by a massive brick arch, under A Few Suburban Spas. 183 their headquarters. At a time when travelling was toilsome and costly, sometimes even dangerous, it was useful to have a little Buxton or Harrogate close at hand. To supply the demand, some enter- prising person discovered a spring with rare healing powers ; some doctor wrote it up, and the place became, for a time at least, fashionable. Such a spa in St. George's Fields I have already described. Let me say a few words about others equally in- teresting, in the neighbourhood in which we now find ourselves. Not far from the site of the Myddleton's Head, on the north side of the New River, no longer visible, and close to the New River Head, stands Sadler's Wells Theatre, built on the site of one of these places of health-resort. It seems that some time before 1683, a certain Mr. Sadler, said to have been a surveyor of highways, had put up a wooden building hereabouts, which was known as Sadler's Music-house. In that year his servants, when digging in the garden for gravel, were reported to have discovered a mineral spring, and in 1684 a pamphlet was published by a doctor named Thomas Guidot, puffing the curative powers of the water. He speaks of five or six hundred the floor of No. 18, Farringdon Road formerly the parish watch-house. This quaint little tenement is now to be let on building lease. The whole neighbourhood seems in old days to have had a reputation for holy and medicinal wells. 184 London Signs and Inscriptions. patients being there every morning, and assures us that the spring had merely been rediscovered : ' The priests belonging to the Priory of Clarken- well, using to attend there, making the people believe that the virtues of the waters proceeded from the efficacy of their prayers.' ' These super- stitions,' he adds, ' were the occasion of its being arched over and concealed at the time of the Reformation.' In spite of this fine pufF, the waters, apparently, soon ceased to attract, though they continued to be sold in Sadler's name for some time, as shown by an advertisement of June, 1697.* In 1699 the building was advertised as Miles's Musick-house. The place had then become known as a resort for very disorderly characters. Miles was succeeded by Francis Forcer, whose father, a musician, seems to have lived on the spot. The son, said to have been an Oxford man, intro- duced the diversions of tumbling and rope-dancing with the pranks of Harlequin and Scaramouch. He died in 1743, and in the following year the establishment was being carried on by one John Warren, when it was presented by a Middlesex Grand Jury as a place of ' great extravagance, * In the Post Boy, and in the Flying Post for June, 1697, we are told that 'Sadler's excellent steel waters at Islington, having been obstructed for some years, are now opened and current again,' etc. A Few Suburban Spas. 185 luxury, idleness, and ill-fame.' Soon afterwards it got into the hands of Mr. Rosoman,* who in 1765 pulled down Sadler's wooden erection, and built a regular theatre on the site. Towards the end of last century Sadler's Wells was still some distance from London, and the roads were by no means safe. George Daniel, in his ' Merrie England,' says : ' It is curious to read at the bottom of the old bills and advertisements the following alarming announcements, " A horse patrol will be sent in the New Road that night, for the protection of the nobility and gentry who go from the squares and that end of the town ; the road also towards the city will be properly guarded." Again, "June, 1783. Patroles of horse and foot are stationed from Sadler's Wells gate along the New Road to Tottenham Court Turnpike ; likewise from the City Road to Moor- fields ; also to St. John Street, and across the Spa fields to Rosoman Row, from the hours of eight to eleven." 1 On Easter Monday, April 2, 1804, a new sort of entertainment called ' Naumachia ' was produced at Sadler's Wells. An immense tank had been constructed under the stage and beyond it, which could be filled by water from the * At the bar of the Sir Hugh Myddleton tavern there was formerly an interesting portrait group of frequenters of the old Myddleton's Head, Mr. Rosoman being in the centre. * 1 86 London Signs and Inscriptions. New River, and emptied at pleasure. On this aquatic stage, the boards being removed, was given a mimic representation of the Siege of Gibraltar, in which real vessels of considerable size bom- barded the fortress, but were subdued by the garrison and to all appearance burnt.* After a time the success of the novelty was prodigious, and many pieces of the same kind were afterwards produced. This theatre was distinguished a generation ago as the home of Shakespearean drama, under the management of that sterling actor Samuel Phelps. It was rebuilt in 1879. The actual site of the old well has long been lost ; Malcolm asserted that it had been discovered some time before he wrote ' in the space between the New River and the stage-door ' of the theatre, and that it was said to have been encircled with stone, with a descent of several steps. Cromwell, however, writing a few years later, tells us that ' persons who have an intimate acquaintance with the theatre for the last half- century have no recollection of the discovery ; and as it is known that springs yet exist under the orchestra and stage, it seems probable that the ancient healing fountain might be traced to that situation.' For a few years, during the first half of the seventeenth century, there was a rival to Sadler's Wells in a popular place of amusement called ' The * Pinks's ' History of Clerkenwell,' 2nd edition, p. 427. A Few Suburban Spas. 187 New Wells near the London Spa.' There were gardens here, and a theatre, in which took place what we should now call variety entertainments. Mrs. Charlotte Charke the eccentric daughter of Colley Gibber, was one of the performers. Ceasing to attract, it was closed in 1 747, the theatre being afterwards used as a chapel under the auspices of John Wesley, and, according to Pinks, the houses Nos. 5 to 8, Rosoman Street now occupy the site. Lysons, Halliwell Phillipps, and others, have confused the mineral spring discovered by Sadler with a mineral spring of greater celebrity called the New Tunbridge Wells ; but, though near each other, they were quite distinct. In 1699 a narrative poem was published under the title of ' A Walk to Islington, with a Description of New Tunbridge Wells and Sadler's Musick House,' in which the fame of the wells is ascribed to its medicinal water, and that of the music-house to such good cheer as cheesecakes, custards, bottled ale and cider, and the diversions of singing and dancing. An article in the Gentleman's Magazine for December, 1813, puts the matter beyond a doubt ; and their relative positions are clearly marked in Horwood's map of 1799. New Tun- bridge Wells, or the Islington Spa (really, of course, in the parish of Clerkenwell), was a spring of chalybeate water in a garden, the entrance to which 1 88 London Signs and Inscriptions. until 1 8 1 o was opposite the New River Head on the south side ; No. 6, Eliza Place marked the site. This street, a continuation west of Myddle- ton Place, has, like it, been absorbed by Rosebery Avenue. The spa was open to the public before 1685, as is proved by a curious advertisement in the London Gazette of September 24 in that year : 'Whereas Mr. John Langley, of London, Merchant, who bought the Rhinoceros and Islington Wells, has been represented by divers of his malicious adversaries to be a person of no estate or reputa- tion, nor able to discharge his debts ; which evil practices have been on purpose to ruin and destroy his reputation,' etc. The character of the company soon after this may be judged from a burlesque poem, published in 1691 ; it con- tains the lines which head this chapter. In 1 700 there was * music for dancing all day long, every Monday and Thursday during the summer season. No mask to be admitted.' A few years later the spa became fashionable, being patronized by ladies of such position as Lady Mary Wortley Montagu. It was at its zenith in 1733, when the Princesses Amelia and Caroline, daughters of George II., came daily in the summer and drank the waters. At this time, as we learn from the Gentleman s Magazine, ' Such was the concourse of nobility and others that the proprietor took above 30 in a morning. On the birthday of the A Few Suburban Spas. Princesses, as they passed through the Spa Field (which was generally filled with carriages), they were saluted with a discharge of 2 1 guns, a compli- ment which was always paid them on their arrival ; and in the evening there was a great bonfire, and the guns were discharged several times.' Islington Spa continued with, on the whole, declining fortune throughout the rest of the eighteenth century. Soon afterwards it was found necessary to curtail the garden, and a great part of the old coffee-roorn was pulled down. About the year 1810, the old entrance being closed, a new one was made in Lloyd's Row ; and finally, in 1840, what remained of the garden was altogether done away with, and two rows of houses, called Spa Cottages, were built on the site. Even now there is a house at the corner of Lloyd's Row and Spa Cottages, the residence of the last proprietor, which recalls the vanished glory of other days by the inscription in capital letters, ' ISLINGTON SPA, OR NEW TUNBRIDGE WELLS.' At the back, in the cellar of No. 6, Spa Cottages, I have seen grotto- work with stone pilasters ; on each side are steps descending. Here, I believe, was the original chalybeate spring ; for many years it has ceased to flow. Horwood's map of 1799 shows some of these suburban spas and places of amusement very dis- tinctly. Islington Spa is marked just south of the 190 London Signs and Inscriptions. New River Head, and over a hundred yards south- west of Sadler's Wells. The garden is of con- siderable size, running east, apparently to St. John Street Road. A short distance to the west, and also near the New River Head, is Merlin's Cave a rural tavern and holiday-resort of Londoners named, it is said, after an artificial cave, dug out in 1835 m tne r y a l gardens at Richmond, by order of Queen Caroline, and of which there was here, perhaps, a humble imitation. Again, some distance to the south of the New River Head, at the corner of Rosoman Street and Exmouth Street, one sees the words ' London Spa,' on a public-house with that sign erected in 1835 to replace a former building. This is on or near the site of another mineral spring once, as we have seen, sufficiently famous to be named in a description of the New Wells,* a neighbouring establishment. In ' Poor Robin's Almanack ' for 1733, occurs the following doggerel, which refers to the month of July : ' Now sweethearts with their sweethearts go To Islington or London Spaw ; Some go but just to drink the water, Some for the ale which they like better.' * Both places are alluded to in an advertisement (dated 1747) of the Mulberry Garden, the site of which, says Pinks, was afterwards covered by the House of Detention. A print of it exists. A Few Suburban Spas. 191 In point of fact, the spa ale sold here seems before the middle of the century to have become famous, when the mineral water was no longer heard of. Spa Fields, which adjoined, were an open waste, a Sunday resort of Londoners of the lower class addicted to rough sports. I have already referred to these fields at page 69, when speaking of the Ducking -pond public-house and its successors, the Pantheon, and Spa Fields Chapel, the first of ' the Countess of Huntingdon's Connexion.' She died in the house adjoining it on June 17, 1791. At the end of last century one might have had an almost rural walk from the London Spa west to Bagnigge Wells, a more famous place of enter- tainment. The way would have been along Exmouth Street, then built on the south side only, and called Braynes Row ; a relic of its early days remains in the form of a tablet between Nos. 32 and 34, which has inscribed on it ' Braynes Build- ings 1765.' At the end of this street was a turn- pike, and at right angles to it was the Bagnigge Wells Road, the lower portion of which had the suggestive name of Coppice Row. North-west from the turnpike, it ran between fields as far as a little group of houses called Brook Place, and then a few more steps would have taken one to Bagnigge Wells,* within the borders of St. Pancras. * The springs thus named were almost on the site of another medicinal spring called Black Mary's Well or Hole. 192 London Signs and Inscriptions. There was a tradition, unsupported, I believe, by any evidence, that Nell Gwynne had here a place of summer abode, ' pleasantly situated amid the Fields, and on the banks of the Fleet,' then a clear stream flowing rapidly and somewhat subject to floods. This was Bagnigge House, a gabled building, some trace of which still remained as late as the year 1844. Inside, it had originally some curious decorative features ; over a chimney- piece in one of the rooms were the Royal arms and other heraldic bearings, and between them ' the bust of a woman in Roman dress, let deep into a circular cavity of the wall, bordered with festoons of delf earth in the natural colours and glazed.' These were afterwards removed from this position, and set up in a long room built for assemblies and Dr. Bevis makes them out the same, and suggests that the title by which the latter had been known was a corruption of ' Blessed Mary's Hole.' Other writers seek to derive it from Mary Woolaston a black woman who about 1680 is supposed to have lived hereabout, by the side, of the road, in a circular hut built of stones, and to have leased and sold the waters. According to the Gentleman's Magazine for 1813, part ii., p. 557, this spring was afterwards enclosed in a conduit by Walter Baynes, Esq., the gentleman who, in 1697, discovered the famous Cold Bath, and who owned, in part at least, the Sir John Oldcastle tavern and gardens hard by. According to a plan of the city and environs of London, as fortified by Parliament in 1642-3, there was a battery and breastwork ' on the hill E. of Blackmary's Hole.' A Few Suburban Spas. 193 balls, which, formed the eastern boundary of the garden. An aquatint print of the interior of this room was published by J. R. Smith in 1772, after a painting by Saunders. The place seems to have been opened for purposes of amusement early in the eighteenth century ; for in Beck- ham's* curious work, the ' Musical Entertainer ' (circa 1738), is an engraving of Tom Hippersly there, mounted in the ' singing rostrum,' regaling the company with a song. The inevitable heal- ing springs, which always, no doubt, made their appearance when wanted, were, it would seem, a comparatively late discovery, first introduced to the public by Dr. John Bevis, who in 1760 wrote 'An Experimental Enquiry concerning the Contents, Quality and Medicinal Value of two Mineral Waters lately discovered at Bagnigge Wells near London.' One was supposed to be purging, and the other chalybeate ; he gives an elaborate account of each. About the year 1775 the placet was described in * See Notes and Queries, 3rd series, ii., p. 228. t In Miss Burney's ' Evelina ' (chap, xlv.), published January, 1778, there is an interesting list of places of amuse- ment in the suburbs. The vulgar members of the Branghton family, and others, dispute as to which they shall visit in the evening. Miss Branghton votes for Saltero's coffee-house ; her sister for a party at Mother Red Cap's ; the brother for White Conduit House ; Mr. Brown for Bagnigge Wells ; Mr. Branghton for Sadler's Wells, and Mr. Smith for Vauxhall. White Conduit House is at last fixed upon. The 13 194 London Signs and Inscriptions, ' The Sunday Ramble ' as ' by no means barren of amusement, and visited in the morning by hundreds of persons to drink the water, and on summer afternoons by numerous tea -drinking parties.' The writer tells of ' beautiful walks ornamented with a great variety of curious shrubs and flowers all in the utmost perfection,' and ' a small round fish-pond, in the centre of which is a curious fountain representing Cupid bestriding a swan, which spouts the water to a great height.' The Fleet,* or, as it was sometimes there called, the Bagnigge River, now a sewer, but at that time still comparatively undefiled, flowed through part of the garden ; it was crossed by a bridge, and the banks were rich with vegetation, insomuch that, as Archer tells us, Luke Clennell, the artist, often came here and made foreground studies for his pictures. But tastes change : the mineral waters ceased to attract ; people of fashion came no more. As early as 1779 Bagnigge Wells is described as a place ' Where 'prenticed youth enjoy the Sunday feast, And City matrons boast their Sabbath rest, Where unfledged Templars first as fops parade, And new-made ensigns sport their first cockade.' site of this is marked by a public-house No. 14, Barnsbury Road ; it was named after an ancient conduit which once stood hard by. * Stow calls it the River of Wells, from the numerous springs that overflowed into it. A Few Suburban Spas. '95 Later it became a mere cockney tea-garden, and gradually declined, till in Lewis's ' History of Islington,' 1 842, it is described as almost a ruin. Shortly afterwards it was closed and dismantled, and now all trace of it has disappeared, save the name, which has been appropriated by a modern tavern at the corner of King's Cross Road (formerly Bagnigge Wells Road) and Pakenham Street, and a curious stone tablet surmounted by a grotesque head, of which I here give an illustration. This is now to be seen built into the wall between two modern houses Nos. 61 and 63, King's Cross Road probably near the north-western limit of the garden. It is mentioned by Dr. Bevis in 1 760 as having been ' over an old Gothic portal taken 196 London Signs and Inscriptions. down about three years ago, and now replaced over the door from the highroad to the house.' At that time, I believe, the grotesque head was added. About thirty years ago, as may be learned from a letter in the Builder, January, 1863, the doorway was pulled down and the stone fixed where one may still see it, in front of the houses built on the site. I was glad to find this stone still in existence ; it is worth rescuing from oblivion. The inscription runs as follows : * This is Bagnigge House neare the Finder a Wakefielde 1680.' The latter place, thus referred to, was an old country tavern in the Gray's Inn Road. Mr. Wheatley says it was on the west side, and that the small houses between Harrison Street and Cromer Street, till recently called Pindar Place, occupied the site ; and, confirming his statement, it is shown in Strype's map on the west side of * the road to Hamstead.' The modern public-house with this sign is on the east side. Tom Brown, in his ' Comical View of London and Westminster,' published in 1705, gives us a pleasant glimpse of the then surroundings of a stile near Lamb's Conduit, and ' a milkmaid crossing the fields to Pinder of Wakefield.' There is mention of it immediately after the Great Fire, by Aubrey. When the inscription was first put up, Bagnigge House and the Pinder of Wakefield were probably next-door neighbours, though their sites are now A Few Suburban Spas. 197 separated by a dreary wilderness of bricks and mortar. Palmer, in his ' History of St. Pancras,' records that in 1724 the Pinder of Wakefield was destroyed in a hurricane, the landlord's two daughters being buried in the ruins. The word Pinder, equivalent to pinner or penner, was applied to the keeper of the public pen or pound for the confinement of stray cattle. George a-Green, or the Pinder of the town of Wakefield, is the subject of a prose romance supposed to be as old as the time of Queen Elizabeth. He (so runs the legend), with his back to a thorn and his foot to a stone, thrashed no less a foe than Robin Hood. Before quitting this branch of my subject, I will say a few words about a former health-resort within a stone's throw of the old Pinder of Wakefield. On the east side of Gray's Inn Road, near the upper end, by the King's Cross Station on the Metro- politan Railway, is a shabby-looking passage called St. Chad's Row, which, turning to the north, runs into King's Cross Road, and here is the site of the well named after St. Chad or St. Ceadda, who founded the bishopric of Lichfield, and died in 672. In Laurie and Whittle's map of 1800, the extension of Gray's Inn Road northwards is called St. Chad's Road. The well, however, as far as I can ascertain, was not particularly ancient or, if so, the early records are lost. Hone describes it in his 'Everyday Book' in the following prophetic 198 London Signs and Inscriptions. words : ' St. Chad's Well is near Battle Bridge. The miraculous water is aperient, and was some years ago quaffed by the bilious and other invalids, who flocked thither in crowds. ... A few years and it will be with its waters as with the water of St. Pancras' Well, which is enclosed in the garden of a private house near old St. Pancras Churchyard.' The garden attached to St. Chad's Well seems in the last century to have been famous for its tulips ; at least, if one may believe an advertise- ment in my possession, which has the date 1779. It speaks of ' The largest and richest .collection of early Dutch tulips ever yet seen in Great Britain, now in bloom, with many fine double hyacinths of various colours raised by Van Hawsen, to be had of Richard Morris at St. Chad's Wells, Battle Bridge, near London ; the lowest prices marked in the catalogue, which may be had as above, and the flowers seen gratis. No person admitted with a dog. Seedsmen and gardeners will be furnished wholesale with Duke Vantol, Claremond, and many other sorts of early tulips at the Dutch prices, and with the usual discount : the grand present Auricula at is. per pot : Gold and Silver Fish cheap.' Mr. Pinks gives the particulars of the sale by auction of St. Chad's Well on September 14, 1837. ^ seems that there was then a brick house facing Gray's A Few Suburban Spas, 199 Inn Lane, having a pump-room and a large garden at the back. The water appears to have been still sold three years afterwards, when a pamphlet was issued setting forth ' the character- istic virtues of the Saint Chad's Wells aperient and alterative springs.' CHAPTER IX. TWO OLD CITY MANSIONS. ' The crowning city, whose merchants are princes, whose traffickers are the honourable of the earth.' Isaiah xxiii. 8. BEFORE the summer of 1892 a large and interesting old mansion was destroyed in the City. This, known as Nos. 8 and 9, Great St. Helen's, Bishopsgate Street, was situated on the south side of the churchyard. It was of brick, having engaged pilasters, which were furnished with stone bases and capitals ; they also had bands, on two of which, composed, however, of cement, appeared in relief the initials A L X and the date 1646. The projecting sills or cornices, and the deep keystones of the first-floor windows, gave a striking character to the house. It was also memorable as an early specimen of brickwork in London, and as dating from a period before the formal conclusion of the Civil War, when building operations were almost at a standstill. No. 9 had, in a room on the first-floor, a wooden seventeenth- Two Old City Mansions. 201 century mantelpiece,* behind which, on its removal, were found traces of an older mantelpiece of marble, and evidence of the former existence of a large open fireplace. There was a beautiful staircase, quite Elizabethan in style ; a blocked-up window with wooden transoms for casements was also discovered ; so it seems likely that some years NOS. O AND 9, GREAT ST. HELEN S. after the building of the house considerable alter- ations took place. The facade has often been attributed to Inigo Jones, f but it had not his * There was another fairly good mantelpiece on the second-floor. t I do not guarantee the completeness of the following list of work in the City said to have been by Inigo Jones, 2O2 London Signs and Inscriptions. classic symmetry, and looked like the work of a less-instructed native genius. Besides, Inigo Jones, a Royalist and Roman Catholic, was taken prisoner in October, 1645, at tne storming of Basing House, having been there during the siege, which had lasted since August, 1643. He was appa- rently not free to return to his profession until July 2, 1646, when, after payment of a heavy fine, his estate, which had been sequestrated, was restored to him, and he received pardon by an ordinance of the House of Commons, to which the Lords gave their assent. It is difficult to believe that, whilst but it may be useful for reference. The Church of St. Catherine Cree, Leadenhall Street, has been popularly ascribed to him ; it was consecrated by Laud, January 1 6, 1630-31, and is in pseudo-Gothic style. The Classic portico to old St. Paul's Cathedral was designed by Jones in 1633. The repairs under his supervision were begun in April, 1631, and carried on for more than nine years. The Church of St. Alban's, Wood Street, may have been his work ; it re- placed the old church, pulled down in 1632. This was de- stroyed in the Great Fire. The hall, theatre, and court-room of the Barber-Surgeons' Company were built by him, ap- parently in 1636. The hall was destroyed in the Great Fire ; the theatre, which had been restored by the Earl of Burlington, was pulled down in 1763. It has been stated that the latter rebuilt the court-room ; Mr. Young, however, in his 'Annals of the Barber-Surgeons' (1890), declares posi- tively that it is the work of Inigo Jones, repaired after the Fire. He is said to have also built Thanet House, Alders- gate Street, which survived till 1882. Two Old City Mansions. 203 he was passing through such a crisis, or in the few months succeeding it, he should have been superintending a work in the Puritan City. At the time of his release the great architect was seventy-four years of age, and, as far as we know, he hardly practised his profession afterwards. Aubrey tells us that in 1648, the south side of Wilton House having been destroyed, it was restored by his advice, ' but he being then very old could not be there in person, but left it to Mr. Webb,' his pupil and executor. The division of Nos. 8 and 9, Great St. Helen's into two took place in the course of last century, probably about 1750, to judge from the style of the fanlights and projecting hoods to the front- doors, and from the staircase of No. 8, the upper part of which, however, was much more archaic, and may have served as part of the back-staircase to the original house. At the time of these later alterations a new brick front was put to the top story, the windows being protected by high iron railings, which showed that these upper rooms were used as nurseries. Before this there was, I should imagine, a high-pitched roof, perhaps hipped, with dormer windows. There must also have been an appropriate cornice and frieze, which would have balanced the heavy projecting window- sills below. That the house always had a fourth story is proved by the fact that both the old stair- PART OF THE OLD HOUSE IN GREAT ST. HELENA, FROM A MEASURED DRAWING. Two Old City Mansions. 205 cases extended to the top. The accompanying illustration of part of the front is from a beautiful measured drawing by Mr. H. O. Tarbolton. who studied the house very carefully just before its demolition. In Allen's ' History of London,' vol. iii., p. 157, I find a statement that this brick mansion (identi- fied by mention of its initials and date) was ' for- merly the residence of Sir J. Lawrence, Lord Mayor in 1665.' This appears to be the origin of the idea that the house was built for -him, and that he kept his mayoralty there, which has of late been usually accepted as a fact. There is no doubt that Nos. 8 and 9, Great St. Helen's was his property in 1665, but he was living in a house of totally different appearance an illustration of which, by T. Prattent, published in 1796, forms the frontis- piece to vol. xxix. of the European Magazine. As there shown, it had elaborate plaster decorations in front, with the City arms and the arms of Lawrence, and last, though not least, the inscrip- tion s r jL K & A. 1662. Sir John Lawrence's resi- dence is marked by name in the map of Bishops- gate Street Ward accompanying Strype's Stow, where a slight sketch of it is also given ; the present Jewish synagogue in Great St. Helen's is a little bit west of the site. Having looked up the history of the Lawrence family, and its connection with this parish, I think 206 London Signs and Inscriptions. I can show that the initials on the pilaster of Nos. 8 and 9, Great St. Helen's were not those of Sir John Lawrence and his wife Abigail, but of his uncle Adam and his uncle's wife. The Lawrences, like many other eminent mercantile families, were originally Dutch or Flemish. The name was spelt in various ways, as Laurens, Lau- reijns, Laurents, etc., until, when its possessors became thoroughly anglicized, it took the English form. Le Neve, the herald, says that a Marcus Lawrence, from Flanders, who had married Ger- trude Huesen, came and settled in London. He had, among other children, a son Abraham and a son Adam. The latter was baptized at the Dutch Church, Austin Friars, September 8, 1584;* and one may fairly assume that it was he who there married, May 28, 1610, Judith Van den Brugghe, of Norwich, where there was then a strong settle- ment of people from the Low Countries. He was appointed deacon of the Dutch Church in 1628, and became an elder in 1632. Eleven years later he had taken up his residence in Great St. Helen's, as we learn from an entry in the parish register, | * 'Marriage, Baptismal, and Burial Registers of the Dutch Reformed Church, Austin Friars, from 1571 to 1874,' edited by W. V. C. Moens. t On the 1 5th of April, 1630, occurs the following entry : ' Petronela Laurence widdowe, a Dutchwoman, was buryed in ye ten shilling ground, att lower end of ye men's pewes.' I am tempted to add the following curious baptismal entry Two Old City Mansions. 207 which suggests the forlorn condition of the home- less poor in those days. On the 23rd of April, 1643, ' a f ema l e infant, found dead at the dore of Mr. Adam Lawrence, merchant, was buried in the churchyard ' there. What house he was then living in I am not able to determine ; but in the year 1646 the house just now destroyed was doubtless either built or altered for his own resi- dence, and on it was placed an inscription, according to the custom of the country whence he sprang. I have previously pointed out that in inscriptions of this kind the initial of the husband's Christian name is almost invariably on the left, the wife's on the right, and that of the surname above. The letters in question would therefore have stood for ' Adam and Judith Lawrence.' In 1650 came the inevitable ending to their long married life. On the 9th of April it is recorded that Judith ' Laurents ' * was buried in the church of Great St. Helen's. Adam died in October, 1657. His will describes him as a merchant, and he seems to from the register. 'Sept. I, 1611. Job-rakt-out-of-the- asshes, being borne the last of August, in the lane going to Sir John Spencer's back gate and there laide in a heape of seacole asshes, was baptized the first day of September following and dyed the next day after.' * The old spelling is still retained, as in the entry of Adam's baptism at the Dutch Church. 208 London Signs and Inscriptions. have been a very prosperous one. He desires to be buried near his wife, in Great St. Helen's, and leaves i oo to the poor of the Dutch congregation in Austin Friars, and^ioo towards the mainte- nance of the ministry there ; also similar legacies for the parish of Great St. Helen's, and^ioo to the poor children of Christ's Hospital. Amongst numerous nephews, he singles out for special favour John, who seems to have been a son of his brother Abraham. To him he leaves several houses and gardens in the parish, amongst others his ' now dwelling-house, with the yards, garden edifices, appurtenances, and hereditaments whatsoever there- unto belonging.' This, no doubt, was Nos. 8 and 9, Great St. Helen's, unless after his wife's death he had shifted into another residence. Adam also left to his nephew John his share in the ' sister's thread trade/ whatever that may mean, which he had in partnership with Abraham Cullen,* the elder, and Philip Van Cassole ; and 1,500 to Abigail, his nephew's wife, who died in 1681, and whose monument still exists in Great St. Helen's Church, where it is recorded that she was ' the tender mother of ten children. The nine first, being all daughters, she suckled at her own breasts ; * The name is spelt in various ways. He may have been of the family of Sir John Cullum, Sheriff of London in 1646, on the site of whose mansion Cullum Street, hard by, is built. Two Old City Mansions. 209 they all lived to be of age. Her last, a son, died an infant. Shee lived a married wife 39 years, 23 whereof she was an exemplary matron of this Cittie,* dying in the 59th year of her age.' This lady was eldest daughter of Abraham Cullen, who appears to have been nearly related to the Law- rence family. One paragraph of Adam's will is worth quoting, because it seems to indicate that pretentious public funerals were then not uncom- mon in the City, and that he, at any rate, was frca from a taste for vulgar display. He says : ' Lastly, my desire is that my funerall be decently performed without anie pompe or ceremonie of mourners, and that my corps be carried from my own dwelling house, not troubling any publique hall.' John Lawrence, the nephew, seems to have been a pattern City merchant. He had begun life as a Bluecoat boy, hence, perhaps, his uncle's legacy. In 1658 he served the office of Sheriff. On June 16, 1660, he was knighted by Charles II., when that monarch, accompanied by his brothers, the Dukes of York and Gloucester, and some of the nobility, was entertained at supper by the Lord Mayor, Sir Thomas Alleyne. In 1662 Sir John Lawrence appears to have built a new house for himself, the one before alluded to, which * From this I infer that she and her husband came to live in the parish after Adam's death. Their son John was born December, 1661, and died a few months afterwards. 2io London Signs and Inscriptions. was drawn by Prattent, not unlikely on a ' garden plot' mentioned in his uncle's will. In 1664 he was elected Lord Mayor, and Evelyn speaks of a ' most magnificent triumph by water and land ' on that occasion. Evelyn also attended the Lord Mayor's banquet, and tells us that it was said to have cost 1,000. He dined at the upper table with the Lord Chancellor, the Dukes of Alber- marle, Ormonde and Buckingham, the French Ambassador and other great personages. The Lord Mayor twice came up to them, ' first drink- ing in the golden goblet his Majesty's health, then the French King's as a compliment to the Ambassador ' ; they ' returned my Lord Mayor's health, the trumpets and drums sounding. The cheer was not to be imagined for the plenty and rarity, with an infinite number of persons at the tables in that ample hall.' Sir John Lawrence showed both courage and liberality whilst the Great Plague was raging in the following year. He stuck to his post, ' enforced the wisest regula- tions then known,' and, when multitudes of servants were dismissed through fear of contagion, he is said to have * supported them all, as well as the needy who were sick ; at first by expending his own fortune, till subscriptions could be solicited and received from all parts of the nation.' Dr. Erasmus Darwin, in his ' Loves of the Plants,' canto ii., devotes a few lines to ' London's Two Old City Mansions. 2 1 1 generous Mayor.' Five deaths only are recorded in Great St. Helen's during the year 1665, which suggests that those connected with the Church showed less courage than the chief parishioner, and that the register was neglected. In 1684 the house of late numbered 8 and 9, Great St. Helen's was in the occupation of one William Moses. That year Sir John Lawrence, who so far had not handed over his uncle's legacy for the poor of the parish, agreed to discharge his obligation by payment of 250, and to give 100 in addition for leave to make a family vault in the church. In 1690 Sir John was living in Putney, as appears from the churchwardens' accounts.* He died January, 1691-2, and was buried on the 2 Qth of that month, in the family vault which had been constructed for him under the church of Great St. Helen's, but no monument to his * Dr. Cox mentions this. Having searched for Sir John Lawrence's will at Somerset House, I find that he died intes- tate, and that administration of his estate was granted to his widow Catherine ; so he had married a second time. In this grant he is described as ' nuper de Putney.' It appears from the register of that parish that he had a young family, and this is confirmed by a Lawrence pedigree which has been kindly placed at my disposal. Among the children there was another son John, who married Catherine Briscoe ; he died in 1728, leaving several daughters and a son of the same name. There was also a son Adam, who left no issue. Catherine, Lady Law- rence, was buried in the vault at St. Helen's Church in 1723. 212 London Signs and Inscriptions. memory exists. The Rev. J. E. Cox, D.D., in his ' Annals of St. Helen's ' tells us that at the church restoration of 1865-8 'a quaint piece of carved work, which had been set up to sustain the Lord Mayor's sword and mace, was removed to the pillar dividing the choir from the Chapel of the Holy Ghost.' The following is a description of it taken almost verbatim from Allen : ' It consists of two twisted Corinthian columns, supporting an entablature highly enriched, and an attic panel. The shafts of the columns are set off with a wreath of foliage running round them. On the frieze are the arms of Sir John Lawrence, in the attic are the City arms, and the whole structure is crowned with the arms of Charles II., supported by two gilt angels, and surmounted with the royal crown.' I hope that this interesting memento of a great City worthy, though not ' Gothic ' in style, will be carefully preserved during the far more wholesale restoration which is now in pro- gress. Sir John Lawrence's arms were : argent, a cross raguly gules, a canton ermine.' 55 ' Peter le Neve * Faulkner gives some verses which he says were written about the year 1664 on the Lawrence arms. Here is a specimen : ' The Field is Argent, and the charge a Cross : Riches without Religion are but dross ; White, like this field, O Lord, his life should be Who bears thy cross, follows, and fights for thee.' Two Old City Mansions. 213 says that they were granted to him September 18, 1664, and to his brothers James and Abraham, sons of Abraham Lawrence deceased ; but it must have been earlier, as they appear on his house associated with the date 1662. Faulkner, in his 4 History of Chelsea,' no doubt deceived by the fact that their arms were identical, assumes that Sir John Lawrence belonged to the ancient English family of the same name, whose memory is perpetuated by various monuments at the end of the north aisle of Chelsea old church. Both he and Dr. Cox* go so far as to say that Sir John was buried there ; but his namesake, ' Sir John Lawrence, Knight and Baronet,' to whose memory a tablet was placed against the east wall of Chelsea Church, belonged to Iver, in the county of Bucks, and died in 1638, aged fifty years, as appears by the inscription. For several generations the descendants of the famous Lord Mayor continued to own the house which be- came Nos. 8 and 9, Great St. Helen's. It after- wards passed into the hands of the Guise family* from whom it was inherited by an ancestor of the last possessor, Mr. John Cosens Stevens. Peace be to its memory ! The passage from Great St. Helen's into * Dr. Cox says the date of Lawrence's death was August 23, 1718, which would be seventy-six years after his first mar- riage. 214 London Signs and Inscriptions. Bishopsgate Street passes under old gabled build- ings which date from before the time of the Great Fire. On the left is the northern front of Crosby Hall, part of a Gothic mansion unrivalled in its day, though little of the original structure remains. This side was almost entirely rebuilt more than fifty years ago. The oriel window, weathered by London atmosphere, has a very picturesque effect ; it is surmounted by the arms of Sir John Crosby, the eminent citizen who built and first possessed the mansion, and who lies buried in the adjoining church, where there is a rich altar-tomb to his memory, with the recumbent figures of him and his first wife, Anneys. On this tomb also are the Crosby arms, namely : sable, a chevron ermine between three rams trippant argent, armed and hoofed or. Sir John, a keen supporter of the House of York, was knighted by Edward IV. in the year 1471 ; he served as Sheriff of London in 1470, and held the important post of Mayor of the Staple of Calais. Opposite to Crosby Hall, on the northern side of Great St. Helen's Passage, there stood till September, 1892, a structure which, though un- pretentious, had an air of quaintness, with its iron railings in front and broad white window-frames. The inscription on a tablet above the door of this building ran as follows : ' These alms-houses were founded by Sir Andrew Judd, Kt., Citizen f 'Two Old City Mansions. 215 Skinner and Lord Mayor of London, Anno Dom. 1551. For six poor men of y e said Company. Rebuilt by y e said Company Anno Dom. 1729.' The original alms-houses are supposed to have been further east. Sir Andrew Judd was a native of Tunbridge in Kent, near which town he inherited consider- able estates. Having entered commercial life, he made a large fortune by trading in furs, and, as Stow, tells us, he kept his mayoralty in a ' fair house ' in Bishopsgate Street, which had been before used for a similar purpose by Sir William Holies, the ancestor of the Earls of Clare. It was during Judd's mayoralty, in 1550, that the City of London obtained from the King by charter lands in Southwark, forming now so important a property, and to which I alluded in my account of the Dog and Duck, St. George's Fields. Sir Andrew was also buried in the church of Great St. Helen's, which has been a sort of Westminster Abbey for great citizens. A quaint Elizabethan monument marks his resting-place. The inscrip- tion gives quite a little biography of him ; as was remarked by one of our Transatlantic cousins, ' it states all the facts, and rhymes in some places.' In the * Historical Collections of the Noble Families of Cavendish, Holies, Vere, Harley and Ogle,' ed. Lond. 1752, compiled by Arthur Collins, it is asserted that, in building the alms-houses, Judd 2i 6 London Signs and Inscriptions. was only acting as executor to his cousin ' Eliza- beth, widow of Sir William Holies of St. Helen's, Alderman,' and this seems to be shown by her will, which was proved March 28, 1544. Stow, however, does not mention her name in connec- tion with the charity. It was augmented by Sir Andrew Judd's daughter, Alice Smyth, of Westen- hanger, Kent. Sir Andrew had also been executor to the Holies family. His original alms-houses were nearer the church than those the site of which the Skinners' Company has now, I believe, disposed of. He also founded and endowed Tun- bridge Grammar School. Great St. Helen's is being so rapidly ' improved ' that it will soon become quite commonplace and uninteresting. A piece was shorn off the church- yard some years ago, no one exactly knew why, and several picturesque plastered houses, im- mediately west of Nos. 8 and 9, have been pulled down within my memory. At the corner, op- posite to the pretty south porch of the church, attributed by the Rev. Thomas Hugo to Inigo Jones, a quaint and very old building still re- mains, which actually touched the house of the Lawrences. No. 10 is constructed of wood and plaster, with projecting upper stories and massive timbering ; it dates from long before the Great Fire ; the inside, however, has been modernized. Tradition boldly asserts that Anne Two Old City Mansions. 217 * Boleyn's father, Sir Thomas, afterwards Viscount Rochford and Earl of Wiltshire, at one time lived here. It is an undoubted fact that one of the name was intimately connected with St. Helen's, for ' on the 24th December, 26th Hen. VIII., 1534, the Prioress and Convent appointed Sir James Bolleyne, knt., to be steward of their lands and tenements in London and elsewhere, the duties to be performed either by himself or a sufficient deputy, during the life of the said James, at a stipend of forty shillings a year, payable at Christmas. If in arrear for six weeks the said James might enter and distrain.' Query: was this Sir Thomas Boleyn's elder brother? There was a right of way hereabout from very early times, for Dugdale tells us that in the Hundred Roll of 3rd Edward I. several entries occur relating to an attempt which the nuns made to stop up the lane or passage through the court of their nunnery from Bishopsgate Street to St. Mary Axe, sometimes called St. Helen's Lane. If, as is possible, the house dates from before the Dissolution of the Monasteries, when it first saw the light there must have been few buildings near the even then venerable Church of St. Helen and the adjoining priory. Crosby Place, indeed, stood hard by, on land leased from the nuns for a term of ninety- nine years, but much open space yet re- mained. Even as late as the end of last century 2i 8 London Signs and Inscriptions. there was a considerable field or garden imme- diately to the east of the church, as shown in a view by Malcolm dated 1799. The buildings and grounds of Crosby Place seem to have extended at first almost to Leaden- hall Street. The houses* in Crosby Square are said to have been built about the year 1678, on the site of some of the offices which had been destroyed by fire. I cannot say how it happened that in the early part of the seventeenth century a house of considerable size had already been erected on part of Crosby Place, or could it have been just outside the precincts? This was latterly known as No. 25, Bishopsgate Street Within, or Crosby Hall Chambers. It succumbed to the pickaxe of the builder as nearly as possible at the same time as Adam Lawrence's old residence in Great St. Helen's. The part facing Bishopsgate Street had no sign of antiquity except two carved festoons of flowers, much blocked up with paint, between the first-floor windows. Up a passage,f however, one could see something of the north * At the back of one of these houses is the only private garden still existing in the City. t This passage, to judge from a restored plan in Hammon's 'Architectural Antiquities of Crosby Place' (London, 1844^, was one of the original courts of Crosby Place ; but I am rather doubtful about it. According to this plan, Crosby Square occupied the site, not of offices, but of the bowling- green. Two Old City Mansions. 219 side or front, which showed architectural features of merit. It rested on round arches composed of rustic work, and above were pilasters furnished with capitals. On the first-floor, looking out on this passage, there was a room adorned by a very beautiful chimneypiece, with the initials G B and the date 1633 in the centre panel. The lower part is of stone, the over-mantel of oak, in very fine condition, all the delicacy of the carving having been preserved by thick layers of paint, which have just been removed. On the ceiling of the same room there was also a fragment of original plaster decoration, which has been presented to the South Kensington Museum. The site of Crosby Hall Chambers will be occupied by the Bank of Scotland. It is proposed to put up the chimneypiece in their new premises. In 1857 the Rev. Thomas Hugo, F.S.A., wrote an interesting itinerary of the Ward of Bishopsgate for the journal of the London and Middlesex Archaeological Society. His paper was republished in book form five years later ; it contains valuable illustrations of Nos. 8 and 9, Great St. Helen's and of Crosby Hall Chambers, besides other houses which have passed away. The letterpress is inspired by a fine enthusiasm ; but his archi- tectural judgment is, I think, not altogether to be relied on. He considers that both the above- named buildings were designed by Inigo Jones. 22O London Signs and Inscriptions. Austin Friars, another region in the heart of the City perhaps as interesting as that which I have just described, is, like it, rapidly being transformed. Not long ago it still maintained a distinctive character. Something of monastic calm seemed to linger about the old home and grounds of the begging friars, crowned by part of their church, which since Edward VI.'s time has been handed over to the Dutch congregation of London. Outside, in Broad Street, there was the roar and confusion of a mighty traffic ; within the sacred precinct there was peace : wheeled vehicles seldom entered the very foot passengers, I have thought, used to slacken their pace, and relax for a moment the grim, determined look which, as a rule, characterizes the man whose mind is bent on business. Passing round what remains of the old church, one may still see a house No. 10 which is an excellent example of the real Queen Anne style ; to judge from the date on a rainpipe, it was prob- ably completed in the year 1704. The porch has a flight of steps ; ascending this, one finds before one a spacious staircase panelled through- out, and especially noticeable on account of its fine painted ceiling, one of the last to be met with in a City mansion. No. 1 1 forms part of the same block of buildings. Retracing our steps, we see standing back some- Two Old City Mansions. 221 what from the main roadway, to the right of a new passage just opened into what is called, in mockery, Drapers' Gardens, a tall new structure occupying the site of another old brick mansion the associa- tions of which were very remarkable. The house in question, No. 21, Austin Friars, had been built during the latter part of the seventeenth century, possibly even before the Great Fire, which did not extend so far north ; it seems to be marked in Ogilby's map of 1677. About the early possessors, Richard Young and others, nothing is known of any special- interest. In the year 1705 it came into the hands of Herman Olmius, merchant, whose name occurs in the ' Little London Directory ' for 1677, where he is described as of Angel Alley, Bishopsgate Street Without. He was descended from an ancient family of Arlon, in the duchy of Luxemburg, and was naturalized by Act of Parlia- ment, 29th Charles II. Here he lived and carried on his business, and here, having made and in- herited a large fortune, he died in the year 1718. His will shows that he was a member, not of the Dutch congregation of the neighbouring church in Austin Friars, but of the French Church in Threadneedle Street, to which he left 150 for the benefit of the poor. At the time of his death he possessed four other houses in Austin Friars, ' with yards, . gardens, and appurtenances,' a shop called the Crane in the Poultry, and another with the 222 London Signs and Inscriptions. sign of the Plough in Bucklersbury. He also had much real property in Essex and elsewhere. Herman was the son of Johannes Ludovicus or John Lewis Olmius, and of his wife Margareta Gerverdine. He married Judith, daughter and heiress of John Drigue, who also appears to have been living in Angel Court or Alley in 1677, and who had also married an heiress, the daughter of John Billers. Herman Olmius and his wife Judith had no less than ten children, but only two of them left offspring. These were his younger daughter Margaret, wife of Adrian Lernoult, who had predeceased him, and to whose descendants the City property was bequeathed ; and John Olmius,* born in 1670. This gentleman became High Sheriff of Essex in 1707, a justice of the peace, and Deputy-Lieutenant of the county. He died December 20, 1731, being then Deputy- Governor of the Bank of England. His wife was Elizabeth, daughter and sole heiress of Thomas Clarke, a descendant of the Clarkes of St. Ives, Huntingdon, and probably her husband's cousin. Their son, also named John, was many years member of Parliament, and received an Irish peerage under the title of Lord Waltham. He married Anne, daughter of Sir William Billers, Lord Mayor in 1733, and left a son and a daughter. * I observe that he and his brother Herman were sub- scribers to Strype's Stow, published in 1720. Two Old City Mansions. 223 The former died without issue in 1787, when the family became extinct in the male line ; the latter having married John Luttrell, who was brother of the Duchess of Cumberland,* and who became third Earl of Carhampton, had a daughter, Frances Maria, from whom is descended Sir Simeon Henry Stuart, Bart. The Olmius family possessed much land in Essex, and a large country seat at Boreham, now used as a convent. At the Saracen's Head Hotel, Chelmsford, their fleeting dignity is still represented by two fine hall-chairs emblazoned with the Olmius crest, namely a demi-Moor in armour between laurel branches, surmounted by a baron's coronet. My friend Mr. Francis Galton would doubtless tell us that the failure of the family in the male line resulted naturally from marriage with heiresses and from intermarriage. Its rapid rise had also, no doubt, been in part owing to the former cause. The house in Austin Friars continued for several generations to belong to the descendants of the younger daughter of Herman Olmius. In 1783 Hughes Minet came to live here, and in 1 802 * Anne, daughter of Simon Luttrell, created Baron Irnham of Luttrelstown, 1768; Viscount Carhampton, 1780; Earl of Carhampton, 1785. She married, first, Christopher Horton, of Colton Hall, Derbyshire, and secondly, in 1771, Henry Frederick, Duke of Cumberland, brother of King George III. This so incensed the latter that he procured the passing of the Royal Marriage Act. 224 London Signs and Inscriptions. he bought a sixth share from three brothers named Clarke, great-grandsons of Margaret Lernoult. He was a merchant and banker, of Huguenot descent, and his family had long carried on a prosperous business at Dover. His descendant, Mr. William Minet, has just written a very inter- esting account of them. The Minets lived in Austin Friars for many years, though they never owned more than a sixth of the property. In 1838 Mr. Isaac Minet, the then representative of the family, sold his share of the freehold, and we find Messrs. Thomas, Son, and Lefevre established here, the last-named being a brother of the late Lord Eversley. The final owner was Mr. John Fleming, by whose courtesy I had the privilege of visiting the house on almost the last day that it remained intact. In point of fact, No. 2 1 , Austin Friars was by no means a striking specimen of architecture, but having remained from the beginning practically unchanged, there were points about it worthy of record. Externally it was a plain four-storied brick structure, the only piece of decoration being a carved hood to the doorway which formed the chief entrance from Austin Friars. Passing through this, the visitor found himself in a hall, looking up a broad winding staircase with twisted balusters. To the right was the counting-house, panelled through- out with South Carolina pine. It had an old Purbeck Two Old City Mansions. 225 marble mantelpiece, on the upper line of which ap- peared in white marble the Olmius arms,* quartered with those of the foreign families of Gerverdine, Cappre, Drigue, and Reynstein. The double panes above was worthy of remark as characteristic of the time of Wren. Under an arch at the end of the counting-house was a strong-room lined throughout with Dutch tiles. Mounting the staircase, one came upon the dining-room, with its ingeniously contrived cupboard, and the drawing- room, which looked out on what was, till within the last few years, the pleasant and ample garden of the Drapers' Company, now covered, all but a fragment, with bricks and mortar. A view of this garden is given in CasselPs ' Old and New London,' vol. i., p. 517, with No. 21, Austin Friars showing itself beyond the trees in the middle distance ; but no reference to it is made in the letterpress. On the first-floor also, above the chief office, was a small warehouse or sample-room, an indispensable adjunct to the old merchant's d welling, t Above were capital bedrooms, while a * Olmius is merely a Latinized form of the Dutch name Van Olm, the latter word being equivalent to Elm. The arms are given in Morant's ' History of Essex.' One of the charges is : out of a mount vert, an elm-tree proper. t In 1778 John Drigue Lernoult and another let the house to Lewis Miol, and a schedule was then drawn up which I have seen. Everything is most carefully noted. "5 226 London Signs and Inscriptions. narrow staircase gave access to the tiled roof, surrounded by a stone parapet. Retracing one's steps to the hall, one found, flanking a passage on the side opposite to the counting-house, a lofty kitchen still furnished with smoke-jack, spit-racks, and iron caldron-holders, and adjoining the range an oven lined with blue and white Dutch tiles, no doubt a legacy of the Olmius family. Formerly, also, most of the chimneypieces in the house were fitted up with Dutch tiles, blue and white or red and white ; but these in course of time had disappeared. In the basement were cellars, and close to them an old surface well, which still contained water, analyzed at the time of its destruction and found to be little better than sewage. A door in the passage was prettily carved. Through this one passed to the outer offices, a brewery, wash-house, coach-house and stables; and thence again there was access by the side-entrance into the garden,* a from the arch in the hall ' with fluted columns and carved capitals,' to the ' battlement wall about 2 feet 6 inches high, coped with stone cornice.' At that time there was a ware- house with a loft over it, and a crane, but its position is not made clear. * The plan of the garden seemed to show that it had been curtailed when the houses to the east, Nos. 15 to 18, Austin Friars, were erected. They were formerly called Winckworth Buildings, and on their water-pipes were T w, 1 726. In No. 1 8, James Smith, one of the authors of ' Rejected Addresses/ lived for a time. These houses are all now swept away. Two Old City Mansions. 227 quiet spot some half acre in extent, which no doubt had originally formed part of the friars' grounds. It was connected by steps with a narrow terrace running along the back of the house. Here in the summer of 1888 I saw fig-trees still flourish- ing while the work of destruction had already begun. The boundary at the end of this garden was formed by another interesting house, No. 23, Great Winchester Street, which has also lately been improved out of existence. Jt occupied a good deal of ground, being approached through a paved yard with a lodge on each side of the entrance. Externally its chief characteristics were a some- what high-pitched roof and wings projecting forward. Inside the chief reception-room was finely proportioned, with capital mouldings and cornices, and there was an old kitchen range of portentous size. Close to this house, and also adjoining Drapers' Garden, was formerly the garden attached to the Carpenters' Hall, so that a few years ago this neighbourhood was a paradise of open spaces. At the dissolution the house and gardens of the Augustine Friars had been bestowed by Henry VIII. on William Paulet, first Marquis of Winchester, who there built his town residence, traces of which existed as late as the year 1 844 : after this mansion Winchester Street was named. 228 London Signs and Inscriptions. From a date carved on a grotesque bracket formerly to be seen at the north-east corner, it appears that the street was constructed, partly at least, in the year 1656, during Cromwell's govern- ment. Strype says that here was * a great messuage called the Spanish Ambassador's House, of late inhabited by Sir James Houblon, Knight and Alderman, and other fair houses.' Even down to our time it was a remarkably picturesque specimen of a London street. Now nothing but the name is left, to mark its connection with antiquity. It may here be noted that even till comparatively recent times almost every house in the City had a garden, or at any rate some open space, belonging to it, as may be proved by reference to old maps and views. Horwood's map, published in 1799, shows how much garden ground still remained at the end of last century. Besides this, before the days of lifts, high pressure of water, and gas or electric light laid on, the inconvenience of very high houses prevented their being built to any great extent. The comparative sparseness of the population should undoubtedly have given our ancestors a great advantage over us with regard to health, but it was more than counterbalanced by drawbacks resulting from ignorance for example, the use of impure water, and the inability to grapple with diseases which are now comparatively innocuous. Two Old City Mansions. 229 The disappearance of these open spaces, and the erection of enormously high buildings on every available spot, is, I believe, a great evil, not only from the picturesque, but from the sanitary point of view. Writers on sanitary subjects are agreed that, of dangers to health, overcrowding is one of the greatest, and that, other things being equal, the death-rate regularly increases in proportion to the density of the population. Dr. G. V. Poore* has recently pointed out that every new set of offices adds its quota to the sewage in the river ; while ' the absence of green plants entails a great loss of nascent oxygen or ozone which gives to air its peculiar quality of freshness.' In his opinion, it is hardly conceivable that a high level of health can be maintained in a spot where vegetable life languishes, animal and vegetable life being complementary to each other. Some will no doubt console themselves with the notion that, the City being now to a great extent merely a place of business, those who spend the day there (considerably more than a million, ac- cording to the last calculation) can throw off the ill effects while they are away. To this I reply that, if one includes the outlying parts, many thousands still make it their home, and * ' London, Ancient and Modern, from the Sanitary and Medical Point of View,' by G. V. Poore, M.D., F.R.C.P. London, 1889. 230 London Signs and Inscriptions. that, in any case,- to spend a quarter of one's existence under most unhealthy conditions must tend to cause illness and to shorten life. In these times of popular government, the great City Guilds are more or less on their probation. If I am right, the Drapers' Company, whatever the tempta- tion may have been, committed a fatal mistake when they covered their garden with huge blocks of offices, a mistake which can never be atoned for by any amount of charitable donation. Their example has been quickly followed, and soon, I fear, hardly one breathing-space will remain in the City except the ground about St. Paul's and the Tower, and here and there a bit of a disused graveyard hemmed in by lofty offices and warehouses. INDEX. ADAM and Eve, Newgate Street, sign, 121 Addle Street ; derivation of name, 47 Aggas's, Ralph, map, 139 Aldermanbury, sign in, 94 Alleyne, Sir Thomas, Lord Mayor, 209 Altitude, highest in City, .7 Ancaster, Duke of, 153 Anchor, signs, 106 Angel Alley, 221 Angel, Islington, 180, 182 Ape, carving of, 46 Aquarium Tavern, 166 Artillery Street, Bishopsgate With- out, 167 Ashburnham, Lord, 35 Ashby-Sterry, J., 158 Ash well's Place, site of, 179 Austin Friars, 220 house in, 220 Axe and Bottle Yard, 136 Bacon, Francis, 134 Bagnigge House, 192, 195, 196 Bagnigge Wells, 191-196 Bagnio Court, 20 Baker and Basket, sign, 6 Baltassar, one of the Three Kings, 32 Barrington, Hon. D., on arms of Inner Temple, 132 Bartholomew Close, 137 Basing House, 202 Bath Street, 20 Battle Bridge, 198 Bear, Brown, Cheapside, sign, 48, 49 chained and muzzled, signs, 47 49 White, sign, 48 with collar and chain, sign, 47 Bear Quay, 49 Beare Lane, 49 Beauty in distress, sign, 71 Beer Lane, 49 Bel and the Dragon, sign, 50 Bell, the, sign, 106 Bell on the Hoop, sign, 123 Bell Savage Inn, the, 123 Ben Jonson Tavern, 169 Berners, Ralph de, 141 Berriman, Dr. W., 146 Bethlehem Hospital, 67, 71 Bevis, Dr. John, 193, 195 Bible and Crown, sign, 1 10 Billers, Sir William, Lord Mayor, 222 Birch, W. de Gray, 74 Bishopsgate Street, 214 Bishopsgate, Ward of, 219 Black Boy, advertisement, temp. 1695, 25 Black Friars, 130 Blackjack, sign, 157 Black Mary's Well, or Hole, 191 Black Spread Eagle Court, 93 Blackamore Street, 25, 148 Blackfriars Road, 158 232 Index. Blackmore Street, 25, 148 Bloomfield's MS., 132 Blowbladder Street, 19 Boar's Head, sign, 51, 119 Tavern, 52-60 Body-snatchers, resort of, 9 Boleyn, Sir Thomas, 217 Bottle, Golden, sign, 157 Boulting Mill, 178 Bow Churchyard, sign in, 118 Bowl and Mouth, signs, 64 Boy and Panyer, sign, 4 Braynes Row, 191 Brewers' Company, 5, 165 Bridge House, the, 76 estate, 71, 75 Brook Place, 191 Browne, Sir Thomas, 43 Bryanston Street, 169 Buc, Sir George, 132 Bucklersbury, 26 Buckingham, Duke of, 20 Buckingham, Earl of, 147 Bucks' Heads, Three, sign, 13 Budge Row, origin of name, 126 Bull, Bishopsgate Street Within, 6 1 Bull and Mouth Inn, Aldersgate, 63-66 sale of, 65 sign, 63 Bull Head Court, 19 Bull Inn, mutiny at, 62 Burrup, Miss, 177 Busby's Folly, 85 Butcher Hall Lane, 19 Byrons, badge of, 6 1 Canon Alley, St. Paul's, in Canonbury, Islington, 141 Place, 141 Tower, 142 Caps of burgesses, 175 Carhampton, Earl of, 223 Carpenters' Hall, 227 Cateaton Street, 14 Cavendish, Lady Margaret, 151 Chambers, James, goldsmith, 157 Chancery Lane, 129 Chapel Street. See Great Chapel . Street Chaplin, W., coach proprietor, 99 Charles I.'s porter and dwarf, 19 Charles Street, Leather Lane, 157 Charlet, Gregory, 145 Charlotte Street, 158 Chaucer, poet, 135 Cheapside Cross, 97 Chesterfield, Lord, 152 Cheyne Walk, 159 Childs and Co., bankers, 156 Chimneypiece, Bishopsgate Street, 219 Gibber, Colley, actor, 187 Civet cat, carving, 66 Clare, Earl of, 147, 215 Market, 24, 146 Street, 24 Clement's Inn, 147 Clement's Inn Fields, 148 market held in, 149 Cloth Fair, 137, 139 Coach and Horses, sign, 170 Cock Inn, 166 and Bottle, sign, 176 Court, 47 sign, 103 with snake, sign, 101 Coffee-house sign, 176 Compton family, 143 Compton Street, Clerkenwell, 146 Coopers' Company, 157 crest, 91 Coppice Row, 191 Corbyn and Co.'s Poultry, sign at, So Coutts, Lady Burdett, 55 Cow and Co., Messrs., 47 Cox and Hammond's, Messrs., sign at, 49 Cox, Rev. J. E., 212 Crane, sign, 89 in the Poultry, 221 Cranes, Three, in the Vintry, sign, 90 Crescent moon, 43 Cromer Street, 196 Crosby Hall, 214 Hall Chambers, 218 Place, 217 Square, 218 Crosby, Sir John, arms, 214 Cross Street, Islington, 145 Crown and Magpie, sign, 104 Crowns, Three, sign, 27 Index. 233 Cumberland, Duchess of, 223 Duke of, 169 Cutler, Sir John, 172 Cutlers' Company, arms of, 122, 124 Danvers Street, Cheyne Walk, 161 Darwin, Dr. Erasmus, 210 Dennys, Sir Walter, arms of, 142 Denzil Street, 150 Dering Street, Oxford Street, 161 Devereux, Lady Penelope, 140 Digby, Sir Kenelm, 151 Doctor's signboard, 160 Dog and Duck, sign, 67, 215 Dog's Head in the Pot, sign, 158 Dorrington Street, 164 Doves, Four, sign, 90 Drapers' Company, 230 Gardens, 221, 227 Drury Lane, 148 Ducking ponds, 68 Dugdale, Sir William, 130 Duke Street, 162 Dyers' Company, 100 Eagle with two Heads, sign, 91 Eldernesse Lane, 12 Elephant and Castle, 122 Epiphany or Twelfth Day, 39 Epitaph on drawer at Boar's Head, 56 Essex, Earl of, arms, 98 Evans, William, giant, 20 Falstaff, drawing of, 58 Fastolfe, Sir John, 60 Field Court, 133 Fire at Southwark, 42, 79 Fire of London, memorial of, 9 Fishmongers' Company, arms of, 61 Fleet, banks of the, 192 Fleet Street, 131 Fleming, Mr. John, 224 Fortune of War Inn, 8 Four Doves, sign, 90 Fowler, Thomas, 144 Fowler family, 180 Fowler of Islington, arms of, 144, 145 Fox, sign, 77 i Foxes, Three, sign, 77 | Friday Street, 135 Fruiterers' Company, arms of, 122 Gallon, Francis, 223 Gaming House and Shaver's Hall, 163 Garden produce, temp. Edward I., 130 Gardens to City houses, 228 Gardiner's Lane, 15 Caspar, 31 George Inn, 79, 80 advertisement of, temp. 1762, 16 Gerard the Giant, 17 Gerrard Street. 162 Gerrardes Hall, 18 Gilbert Street and Passage, 149 Gisor's Hall, 18 Goat in Boots, sign, 168 Gog and Magog, 17 note Golden Bottle, sign, 157 Golden Lion, house and sign, 83 Goldsmiths' Company, 129 Goose and Gridiron, sign, 1 14 Gosling, Messrs., sign, 156, 157 Grasshopper, sign, 157 Gray's Inn, 133 Gray's Inn Lane, 199 Gray's Inn Road, 196 Great Chapel Street, Westminster, 161 Great James Street, Bedford Row, 163 Great St. Helen's, Bishopsgate, 200 203 et set/. Church, 207 Passage, 214 right of way, 217 Great Ormond Street, 153 Great Queen Street, 152, 155 Great Winchester Street, No. 23, 227 Gresham, Sir Thomas, 157 Grey family, arms of, 133 Greys of Wilton, 133 Griffin's Head, sign, 77, 133 Grosvenor, Sir Robert, 135 ! Guildhall Museum, 146, 171, 173 ! Guy of Warwick, 1 1 [ Gwynne, Nell, 192 234 Index. Haberdashers' Company, 128 Half Moon, sign, 40 Inn Yard, Borough, 41 Passage, 45 Hare and Stirrup, sign, 80 and Three Pigeons, tenements called, 79 in combination with the Sun, 78 Running, sign, 78 Harris, Roger, bequest of, 86 Harrison Street, 196 Hatchett's Hotel, 169 Hats, Three, sign, 69 Hawkins, Sir John, 25 Hays' Mews, Charles Street, Berkeley Square, 167 Heathcock, sign, 90 Helmet, sign, 112, 113 Henry, Prince of Wales, 131 Herne, or Heron, family, 146 Hicks Hall, Middlesex Session House, 48 Hoare, Messrs., their sign, 157 Hobson, portrait of, 62 Hogarth's picture of Evening, 181 ; of Southwark Fair, 42 Holland, Earl of, 140 Holies family, 147 arms of, 149 Sir William, 215 Holywell Street, 44 Hood, Robin, 197 Horn of Unicorn, 87 Horsham free school, founding of, 40 Houblon, Sir James, 228 Howard, Lord William, 132 Hudson, Jeffery, dwarf, 20 Thomas, painter, 155 Hugo, Rev. Thomas, 216, 219 Inner Temple, heraldic charge, 131 Inns of Court and Chancery, arms of, 129 Islington, Upper Street, 146 Islington Wells, 180, 188 Jack in the Green, 24 Jackson, William, smuggler, 38 James Street, Haymarket, 163. See Great James Street Jones, Inigo, 154, 201, 216 Judd, Sir Andrew, Lord Mayor, 214 King of the Fields, 69 King's Cross Road, 195, 197 King Street, Southwark, 136 Kings, Three, signs, 26-45 King's White Bear, the, 50 Kenton, Benjamin, vintner, 104 Kneller, Sir Godfrey, 155 Knights Templars, 132 Lacy, Henry de, Earl of Lincoln, 130 Lad Lane, 99 Laing, David, 35 Lamb and Flag, 75, 131, 132 Lambeth Hill, 27 Lamb's Conduit, 196 Lawrence, Adam, 206 will of, 208 family history of, 206 et seq. Lawrence, Sir John, Lord Mayor, 205 Mayor's Banquet, 2IO arms of, 212 Lea, Sir James, 131 Leadenhall Street, 218 Leathern Bottle, sign, 157 Leathersellers' Arms, 13 Leathersellers' Company, 12 Leigh, Gerard, 132 Lennep, J. Van, 3 Leopard, sign, 125 Lernoult, Margaret, 224 Lincoln's Inn, 129 Fields, 152, 153, 162 Lindsey, Earl of, 153 House, 152 Lion, stone bas-relief, sign, 83 Golden, sign, 83 W T hite, sign, 83-86 Little Distaff Lane, I IO Lloyd's Row, 189 London Bridge, 136 Spa, the, 190 Long Lane, 139 Long Melford, Suffolk, 38 Longmans, Messrs., their sign, ill Lovell, Sir Thomas, 130 Lyons Inn, 45 Index. 2 35 Lysons, Rev. Canon, 178 Magi, the, 28 Maidenhead Inn, 14 sign, 119 Maiden's Head, sign, 126 Man in the Moon, sign, 4.0 Mantelpiece, seventeenth century, 200 from the old Cock Inn, 104 at 21, Austin Friars, 224 Marks, Alfred, 154 Marshall, Julian, 163 Martin and Co., bankers, their sign, 157 Martin, J. B., 157 Mary the Virgin, 29 Marygold, sign, 156 May's Buildings, St. Martin's Lane, 162 Mouth, sign, Bishopsgate Street, 64 Myddleton, Sir Hugh, 181 Myddleton's Head Inn, 181, 183 Nag's Head, Unicorn sign wrongly called, 86 sign, 97 Naked Boy, sign, n Narwhal's horn, 88 Nassau Street, 162 Negroes' Heads, 24, 146 Newcastle, Duke of, 151 House, 152 Newcomen Street, Southwark, 136 New Market, 149 New River Company, portrait of founder, 181 New River Head, 183 New, Tunhridge Wells, 187 New Wells, near London Spa, 186 Melchior, one of the Three Kings, New White Horse Cellars", sign- 31 board, 169 Mercers' Company, 14 arms of, 126 Merchant Tailors' Company, 129 Merchants' trade marks, 74 Merlin's Cave Tavern, 190 Mermaid, carved in relief, 60 in Bread Street, 61 in Cornhill, 61 sign of at Gravesend, 60 in Holland, 60 Middle Temple, gatehouse, 131 Midshipman, wooden, 157 Miller, Sir John, 81 Milton, John, sign showing birth- place, 92 Mineral spring, St. Fields, 70 Minerva, head of, 12 Minet, Hughes, 223 Minet, Walter, 224 Northampton, Marquis of, 143 Norwich Cathedral, 34 Old Bell Inn, Holborn, 143 Olmius, Herman, merchant, 221 Ormond Street. See Great Ormond Street Ormonde, Duke of, 169 Ostrich, stone bas-relief, 91 Oxford Arms, Warwick Lane, 65 Minories, the, 157 Mitre Court, 116 Mitres, stone bas-reliefs of, 116 Montagu, Lady Mary Wortley, 1 88 More, Sir Thomas, 138 Morris Dancers, Three, sign, 22 Mount Pleasant, Gray's Inn Lane, 164 Pakenham Street, 195 Panyer Alley, sign in, 4 Parish marks, 166 Peakes, Sir John, Lord Mayor, 129 George's | Pegasus, Inner Temple, sign, 131 Pelham, Thomas, 152 Pelican, as an emblem, 95 sign, 94 and Phoenix, 96 Pepys' Diary, extract from, 84 Person, Father, 139 Peter Street, Westminster, 166 Phelps, Samuel, actor, 186 Philip Lane, 46 Physicians, College of, 172 Pie, sign, IO Pie Corner, 9, 10 Pied Bull Inn, 81 Pindar Place, 196 236 Index. Finder a Wakefielde, inn, 196 Finder of Wakefield, 196 Finder, equivalent to, 197 Plough, sign, Bucklersbury, 222 Poore, Dr. G. V., 229 Pope, Mr. M., F.S.A., 91 Portland, Duke of, 151 Powis, Marquis of, 151 Place, 153 Preaching Friars, 130, 138 Price, Hilton, on bankers' signs, 156 Prince of Wales' feathers, 1 1 1 Pudding Lane, 9 Queen Street. See Great Queen Street Raleigh, Sir Walter, 81, 144 Red Lion Tavern, 180 Rich, Richard, 137 River. See New River Robin Hood Court, Shoe Lane, 167 Roman dress, bust of woman in, 192 Roman temple, site of, 179 Rookery, Gray's Inn, 134 Rose, the, 92 Rose and Crown, ill Rose and Fleur-de-lys, 154 Rosebery Avenue, 164, 182 Rosoman Street, 187 Rotten Row, Asschowellys Place, 179 Roxalana's Head, sign, 14 Royal Arms, 135 Bagnio, 20 Yacht Inn, 150 Rufford, Captain Nicholas, 146 Rufford's Buildings, 146 Running Footman, sign, 167 Sadler's mineral springs, 183 Music House, 183 Wells Theatre, 181, 183, 185 St. Anselm and Cecilia, chapel, 162 St. Bartholomew the Great, church, 140 St. Bartholomew's Priory, 138 St. Bride's, 167 St. Ceadda, well of, 197 St. Chad's Road, 197 Row, 197 St. Chad's Well, 198 St. 'Dunstan's Church, 157 St. Ethelreda, chapel of, 116 St. George and the Dragon, 15, 17 St. George's Fields, 67, 70, 215 St. Giles-in-the-Fields, 167 St. Helen's. See Great St. Helen's St. James's Palace, 167 St. John's Square, Clerkenwell, 170 Street Road, 190 St. Martin's Lane, Upper, 167 St. Mary Axe, 217 St. Michael's Crooked Lane, 56 St. Pancras Churchyard, 198 Well, 198 Salisbury, 170 Sandys Row, 167 Saracen's Head Hotel, Chelmsford, 223 Sardinia Street, 154, 162 Savage's Inn, 123 Seven Stars, sign, 39 Shakespere's Boar's Head, 5 1 Sheffield Street, 161 Shepherd Street, 161 Shiffner family, the, 154 Ship and Black Swan, sign, 1 10 Shoe Lane, 169 Shoreditch High Street, 78 Sims, F. Manley, sign belonging to, 1 60 Skates, mediaeval, 175 Skinners' Company, 125, 129, 216, Smith, Payne and vSmith, sign dis- covered at their premises, IO2 Somers, Sir John, 153 Soper's Lane, 48 Southwark Arms, 72 Fire, 42, 79 Spa Field, 189 Spas, suburban, 180-199 Spencer, Sir John, 142, 145 Spread Eagle, 91 Court, 93 Squirrels, Three, sign, 156 Staircase, Elizabethan, 201 Star, sign, 40 Stevens, John Cosens, 213 Stinking Lane, 19 Stuart, Sir Simeon Henry, Bart, 223 Sun, sign, 40 Swan, chained, 87, 96-98 Index. 2 37 Swan and Harp, sign, 115 upping or nicking, 101 with Two Necks, 98 origin of, 100 Tabard Inn, 79 Tallowchandlers' Company, 91 Tarbolton, H. O., 205 Tavern scoring, 44 Taylor, Edward, bequest of, 13 Temple, Inner, heraldic charge and sign, 131 Tennis Court. 163 Theatrical Booth, 42 Thomas, Son, and Lefevre, 224 Three Bucks' Heads, sign, 13 Cranes in the Vintry, 90 Crowns, sign, 27 Hats, Islington, sign. 69 Kings, 26 arms of, 34 in plays, etc., 36 the feast of, 33 Magi, 28 Morris Dancers, sign, 22 Squirrels, sign, 156 Time, statuette of, 178 Tothill Street, Westminster, 166 Tower Hill, 159 Tulips, exhibition of, temp. 1779, 198 Tunbridge Grammar School, 216 Wells, New, 187 Turner, Mr. Hudson, 130 Two Brewers, 2 Two Negroes' Heads, 24, 146 Tyburn, prisoners on the way to, 64 Tylers' and Bricklayers' Company, 165 Unicorn, description of, 87 stone bas- relief of, 86 supporter of Royal Arms, 87 Union Street, Southwark, 165 Upper Street, Islington, 146 Upper St. Martin's Lane, 166 Vinegar Yard, Drury Lane, 171 Vintners' Company, ico Waller, J. G., 74 Waltham, Lord, 222 Warwick, Earl of, 140, 147 Warwick, Guy of, stone bas-relief of, ii Warwick Inn, 12 Lane, 1 1 Water carnival at Sadler's Wells, 185 Welbeck, 151 Went worth. Lord Thomas, 142 Wesley, John, 187 Westgate Street, Gloucester, 159, 178 Weston family, 143 White Bear, 48, 50 Hart Inn, 79 Lion, 83 Islington, 180 Whittington and his Cat, 178 Whistling Oyster, sign, 171 Wilberforce, William, 57 Williams, Mr., and the Royal Arms from old London Bridge, 137 Wilion House, 203 Wiltshire, Earl of, 217 Winchester, Marquis of, 227 Winchester Street. See Great Winchester Street Winde, Captain William, 152 Winged Horse, the, 131 Winter's Low- Hut, 170 Woman's Head, the, 14 Wooden Midshipman, sign, 157 Wren, Sir Christopher, 115, 131 Wright, Sir Nathan, 153 THE END. Elliot Stock, Paternoster Row, London. 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