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LANDSBOEOUGH'S 
 EXPLORATIO]^ OF AUSTRALIA 
 
 Jprom ODarpentaria to i^elftourne, 
 
 WITH ESPECIAL BEFERENCE TO THE SETTLEMENT OF AVAILABLE COTJNTHT. 
 EDITED BY 
 
 JAMES STUAET LAURIE, 
 
 FORMERLY H.M. INSPECTOR OF SCHOOLS. 
 
 WITH A CHART ; AND A SYSTEMATIC ARRANGEMENT OF 
 
 CARPENTARIAN PLANTS 
 
 BY F. MUELLER, Ph.D., M.D., F.R.S. 
 
 LONDON: 
 
 THOMAS MURBY, 32, BOUVERIE STREET, FLEET STREET, E.C. 
 
 SIMPKIN, MARSHALL, and CO., E.C. 
 
^"^ 
 v^ 
 
 
 LONDON: 
 
 PRINTED BY JOHN H. BATTT, 
 
 «, RED LION COVRT, FLEET STREET, B.C. 
 
 • • 1 . •; I . 
 
Note bg fte mUox. 
 
 This little volume was cliiefly dictated, with the 
 help of materials recorded in the log-book of the 
 journey, by Mr. Landsborough himself. While the 
 work relieved the tedium of a four months' voyage to 
 Australia, it was thought possible that the result might 
 interest a certain section of the English public, and 
 highly probable, that it would prove serviceable to the 
 migratory portion of the Australian public, in affording 
 simple and trustworthy information in reference to one 
 of their most promising fields of enterprise. 
 
 Embracing, as it does, a topic of scientific import- 
 ance, the publication has been additionally prompted 
 by the consideration that, however barren of sensational 
 incidents an Australian ^^ bush " journey necessarily is, 
 the simple record of the exploration of a hitherto trackless 
 region ought not to lie buried in oblivion. This alone 
 appears a sufficiently reasonable ground for issuing a 
 work of no pretensions, and of no stirring interest 
 
 /I o o ii rr r: 
 
beyond its intimate association with the melancholy 
 theme of the Burke-and- Wills catastrophe. 
 
 The Hon. W. Landsborough, legislator and explorer, 
 now presides over the region of the Gulf.* The 
 appointment is a graceful acknowledgment, on the part 
 of the Queensland government, of invaluable services 
 rendered to his adopted country. As my first and best 
 Australian friend, he has my hearty congratulations. 
 
 J. S. LAURIE 
 
 * See latest accounts of the settlemeiit, towards the end of the text. ] 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 It is now pretty generally known that the immediate 
 object of my journey (of 1861-1862) was the rescue of 
 Burke and his party, whose long absence on their 
 northerly expedition had begun to create grave appre- 
 hensions, which alas ! proved to be only too amply 
 justified. Four search expeditions were organised by 
 the Royal Society of Melbourne : Howitt was des- 
 patched from Melbourne to Cooper's Creek (Burke's 
 central depot), and Mclnlay from Adelaide to the same 
 destination ; Walker was sent overland from Rock- 
 hampton to Albert River, Carpentaria, while I was 
 conveyed by ship to that destiuation, with the following 
 instructions: — to strike from the Albert to Central 
 Mount Stuart, and thenceforward to be guided by 
 circumstances. About midway, the absence of water 
 and the utter desolation of the country compelled a 
 retreat ; and, on my return to the Albert, I prosecuted 
 the overland expedition, by the Flinders and the head of 
 Cooper's Creek, to Melbourne. An account of both 
 journeys is briefly given in the following pages. 
 
 Ere starting on the latter expedition, the melancholy 
 success of Mr. Hewitt's eflforts had become known at 
 
11 PREFACE. 
 
 the South ; and the tragedy of Cooper's Creek, with 
 all its vainly regretful contingencies, will ever form a 
 mournful page in the annals of Australia. As the 
 sequel, however, will show, I continued ignorant of the 
 fate of my brave fellow explorers until my arrival at 
 the first settlement, on the further side of the continent. 
 Seeing that the ground over which I passed had been 
 hitherto untrodden by the " white-foot," I used every 
 endeavour to fulfil my supplementary instructions with 
 reference to the nature of the country and the capa- 
 bilities of the soil ; and, in doing so, I was enabled to 
 bring to bear on this department of my work the results 
 of a considerable amount of experience previously 
 acquired in independent explorations. With the 
 exception of the Herbert River district, midway 
 between the Albert and Central Mount Stuart, — it was 
 ray good fortune to be enabled to give an unreservedly 
 favourable report of the character of the country ; to 
 fulfil the object of Mitchell's ambition by my junction 
 with his " furthest" inland from Sydney, at the Barcoo ;* 
 and, finally, notwithstanding serious drawbacks detailed 
 in the sequel, to bring my party to Melbourne in 
 safety. 
 
 Before entering on my narrative, it may prove useful 
 to give a brief and cursory sketch of the more promi- 
 nent Australian explorations anterior to my own : — 
 
 During the earlier years of the settlement, as Sydney 
 
 was first styled, exploration went on slowly. Until 
 
 * To this point Gregory had also made a successful track from 
 Eockhamptoa. 
 
I 
 
 PREFACE. HI 
 
 1813 all the country to the westward of the distant 
 Blue Mountains was unknown. But the following 
 tV7elve years saw a great stride in advance : Oxley, 
 Cunningham, Hovel, Hume, &c., made, during that 
 period, tracks to the southward and westward. Oxley 
 (1817-1818), crossing the Blue Mountains, came 
 upon the head of the Lachlan which he traced for a 
 long distance. 
 
 Hovel and Hume (18M-1825) crossed from Sydney 
 to Port Philip, the site of the now famous City of 
 Melbourne. 
 
 Hume, always a zealous and able explorer, joined 
 Sturt a few years later in tracing the Macquarrie. 
 
 In 1826 the last-mentioned intelligent and energetic 
 explorer thoroughly surveyed the Lachlan, Murrum- 
 bidgee and Darling Eivers — all of which he found to 
 be tributaries of the Murray. He then descended that 
 river to its estuary. Lake Alexandria — thus opening up 
 that vast tract of now famous country between Sydney 
 and Adelaide. 
 
 Among the earliest overlanders from Melbourne to 
 Adelaide, Eyre (now more prominently known in con- 
 nexion with Jamaica) stands conspicuous. Being 
 reported a first-rate bushman, he was delegated by the 
 South Australians to open up a practicable route for 
 stock to Western Australia (1840-1841). Although he 
 succeeded, by almost a miracle, in reaching his destina- 
 tion at King George's Sound, no one has since been 
 able to follow in his steps. Along his entire route, he 
 found the sea-board low and without rivers ; and it was 
 
IV PREFACE. 
 
 only by the toilsome process of tapping sand-hill springs, 
 and sinking wells, that he was enabled to procure 
 sufficient water to sustain life. At one place where he 
 was delayed by want of water, his aboriginal companions 
 revolted, robbed the stores and murdered his only white 
 companion. With one faithful black adherent, Eyre 
 succeeded in escaping. Continuing, in the face of terrible 
 privations, to prosecute his journey, he achieved perhaps 
 the most perilous feat on record. 
 
 The next great expeditions were made on the other 
 side of the continent (1844-1845). Dr. Leichhardt, who 
 had been appointed as botanist to Sir T. Mitchell, but 
 in consequence of the delay of the latter, released from 
 his engagement, started on an independent expedition 
 from Brisbane to Port Essington. His equipment was 
 so inadequate, that he was compelled to subsist on his 
 bullocks, horses, and the products of the chase : con- 
 sequently, his journey was so protracted that he had 
 been given up for lost, when his unexpected reappear- 
 ance at Sydney at once astounded and gratified his friends. 
 
 Simultaneously with the last mentioned expedition, 
 occurred those of Sturt and Mitchell in their respective 
 attempts to reach Carpentaria, the one from Adelaide, 
 the other from Sydney. Both of these eminent 
 explorers, although they failed in their primary object, 
 opened up large tracts of available country. The bad- 
 ness of the season in the one case, shortness of pro- 
 visions in the other, brought the explorers to a halt, 
 singularly enough, both in the neighbourhood of the 
 notorious Cooper's Creek. 
 
PREFACE. V 
 
 Soon after his return from Port Essington, Dr. 
 Leichhardt, with characteristic enthusiasm, organised a 
 second monster expedition, from east to west. Com- 
 pelled by the sickness of his party to return, he 
 undauntedly resumed his journey with a fresh party. 
 Nothing has since been heard of the great explorer. A 
 vigorous search has lately been suggested by the casual 
 discovery of unexpected traces, and is now being 
 carried out, under Mr. Hewitt's leadership (1866). 
 
 The furtherance of MitchelPs plans devolved on a 
 member of his party, named Kennedy. He tried to 
 trace the Barcoo, and the result, so far as he succeeded, 
 satisfied him that, instead of flowing northerly, that 
 river formed the head of Cooper's Creek. In returning 
 to the settled districts by a new route, he discovered 
 the river Warrego. He next went to Eockingham Bay, 
 for the purpose of exploring the region of Cape York. 
 The moistness of that district rendered his sheep and 
 horses so useless, that he was compelled to leave them 
 behind, and advance into the country, attended by a 
 solitary black boy. Kennedy was speared by the natives 
 and his companion barely escaped with his life. 
 
 These melancholy results occasioned a lull in the 
 field of enterprise till 1856. Then A. C. Gregory, who 
 had gained considerable celebrity in Western Australia, 
 was commissioned by the Royal Geographical Society 
 to explore Northern Australia. Landing at the Victoria 
 river he proceeded southerly, and after crossing to the 
 southern water-shed, and tracing Sturt's Creek for a 
 long way, scarcity of water compelled him to 
 return. 
 
Tl PREFACE. 
 
 From the Victoria he went in a direction parallel to 
 the coast, overland to Brisbane. In the hope of learning 
 Leichhardt's fate, he travelled in 1859 from Brisbane to 
 Adelaide, md Cooper's Creek ; but, beyond finding 
 tracks on the Barcoo, the journey was, as regards its 
 main object, fruitless, but in respect of connecting 
 Mitchell's with Sturt's route, and of shewing a practi- 
 cable road, at least in a favourable season, between 
 Queensland and South Australia, the result was highly 
 important. 
 
 Stuart was the first " to plant his flag in the heart 
 of Australia," and, in 1861, he completed his journey 
 to the North Coast. 
 
 But the first to cross the entire continent was the ill- 
 fated Burke, who, with his brave companion, Wills, 
 connected Melbourne with the Flinders (1861) ; and 
 the catastrophe which followed this famous expedition 
 gave birth to various others which I have alluded toil 
 my opening remarks. 
 
 Much as Australia has been explored, comparatively 
 little has yet been done. ' A glance at the map will shew 
 a blank space between the intervals of all the leading 
 tracks, and between Central Mount Stuart and Frank 
 Gregory's " furthest," two hundred miles from the 
 west coast. May the day soon arrive when some com- 
 petitor for his country's applause will succeed in fully 
 realizing the aspirations of the brave Leichhardt ! 
 
 W. LANDSBOROUGH, 
 
 Member of the Legislative Council 
 of Queensland, 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 Fogage to (ZTarpentaria. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Departure from Brisbane — Wreck of tlie Firefly — ^Riot 
 and Destructiveness of the Crew — Landing of the 
 Horses — Rescue by the Victoria 1 
 
 CHAPTER n. 
 
 ^ogage to ©arp^ntarta (continued). 
 
 Post Office Island — ^Escape and Recovery of the Firefly 
 — Bountiful Island — Catching Turtle — Bentinck and 
 Sweer's Islands — Traces of Flinders and Establish- 
 ment of Depot on Sweer's Island 8 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 "Fosage to Carpentaria (continued). 
 
 Exploration of the Albert River — Kangaroo Point — Des- 
 cription of the River — Plains of Promise — Wood's 
 Lake — ^Fitness of the Country for Farming Purposes- — 
 Return to the Victoria 11 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 IfTogage to Carpentaria (continued). 
 
 Absence of Burke's Tracks on the Albert, and Proposed 
 Journey to Central Mount Stuart — Personal Preference 
 for a Different Route — The Firefly Converted into a 
 Depot — ^Voyage up the Albert — Rencontre with 
 Natives — Landing the Horses — ^Visit from the Natives 
 — The Nicholson River — Excursion to Beame's Brook 
 Confluence — Condition of the Horses 16 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 lExpebition to OTfntral Jllount fttuart 
 
 Preparatory Drill — The Attempt to Start — The Start — 
 Arrival at Beame's Brook Junction — Discovery of the 
 River Gregory — ^Rencontre with Blacks — Character of 
 the Gregory — Oar Daily Work — ^My Sextant — Fording 
 the Gregory 23 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 lEipcDition tofearD^ JWount <$tuart (continued). 
 
 Flora of the Gregory — Macadam Creek — ^Return to the 
 Gregory — The Character of the Country — Pack 
 Saddles — ^Rencontre with Natives — Character of the 
 Gregory — Suicide of a Horse — Mount Kay and Stawell 
 Creek — The O'Shannassey — Source of the Lower 
 Gregory 30 
 
 CHAPTER VH. 
 
 l£ipet){tion totoarlJsi JJilouttt <^tuart (continued). 
 
 Ascent of the Upper Gregory — Reconnoitring for Water 
 — Barkley Table-land — Shooting a Kangaroo — Return 
 to Camp — Renewed Search for Water — Return from a 
 Bootless Errand — Herbert Creek-^Return to Camp ... 39 
 
 CHAPTER Vni. 
 
 l£ipet)ttion totoartg i^ount ^tuart (continued). 
 
 Character of Barkley Table-land — Darvall Creek — Ex- 
 amination of the Herbert for Water — Mary Lake — 
 Removal of the Camp thither — Christmas Day — 
 Rencontre with an Elderly Pair of Blacks — Desert 
 Country again — Hopelessly Arid and Sterile — Resolu- 
 tion to return 46 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 lEijpftlttfon lofoattig JHount Ǥtuatt (continued). 
 Beginning of our Eeturn — Hostile Blacks — Imprudence 
 of Risking a Collision — Celebration of New Year's 
 Day — The O'Shannassey — Peculiarities of Australian 
 Rivers — The Mouth of the O'Shannassey — Descent of 
 the Gregory by Right Bank — Remarkable Hydro- 
 graphical Mistake — The River Nicholson — Arrival at 
 the Depot b'^S 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 lExpeUition ©berlantf lo iWelfeourne. 
 
 Official Obstacles to the Journey — Meagre Supply of 
 Provisions — Departure from the Albert — Recalcitrant 
 Horses — Character of the Country — The River Leich- 
 hardt — Richness of its borders — Neumayer Valley — 
 Approach to the Flinders 65 
 
 CHAPTER XI. 
 IcxpftJition ©bevlanli to iWclibournf {continued). 
 The Flinders — Our Youthful Houyhnhym — Character 
 of the Flinders — ^Fort Bowen — Mount Little — Escu- 
 lent Berries — Blacks — Opossums and Rats — Fording 
 Creeks — Scenery — The Country in a Utilitarian Sense 
 — Sunday, as a Day of Rest — The O'Connell — Hunt 
 after a Bullock — ^Rencontre with Blacks — Bramston 
 Ranges — Illness of some of My Party — Walker's 
 Table-Mountain 73 
 
 CHAPTER Xn. 
 lEipetitiott Ob^rlanti to i^clibourne {continued). 
 Change of Route — Part of the Australian Cordillera — 
 Cornish Creek — Tower Hill — Suspicious Behaviour of 
 Blacks — Character of the Country — Bowen Downs — 
 Intercourse with Friendly Blacks — Attempt to Cross 
 to the Barcoo — The Thomson — ^Wittin, our Guide — 
 His Disappearance .. 85 
 
CONTENTS. ' 
 
 I 
 
 CHAPTER Xm. i 
 
 5|otttn«g ©berlanti to i!W;cl{iourne {concluded). \ 
 
 The Barcoo River — Collision with the Natives — Cross- j 
 
 country ride to the Warrego— The Bottle Tree — Scrub \ 
 
 Country — Warrego River — Tracks of Cattle and Horses '] 
 
 — The First Station — Journey to Melbourne via Dar- ' 
 
 ling River — General Remarks 95 i 
 
 Pastoral Capabilities of North Australia 103 « 
 
 A Systematic Arrangement of the Plants noticed around 1 
 
 the Gulf of Carpentaria, from the Roper to the Gilbert .1 
 
 River, including those collected during Mr. Lands- " 
 
 borough's Expedition, and examined by Ferdinand i 
 
 Mueller, P.H.D., M.D., F.R.S Ill 
 
 "5 
 
^a^uQt ia €mpntmm. 
 
VOYAGE TO CARPENTARIA. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 I^ogage to Carpentaria. 
 
 Departure from Brisbane — "Wreck of the Firefly — Riot and Destnic- 
 tiveness of the Crew — Landing of the Horses — Rescue by the 
 Victoria. 
 
 On tlie 24tli of August, 1861, the brig Firefly was ready 
 for sea. She was in all respects adequately equipped with 
 stores and horses for the proposed expedition, besides being 
 favoured with the protection of the colonial war-ship 
 Victoria. On the 25th we bade adieu to Brisbane, and, 
 filled with hopeful anticipations of success, directed our 
 course towards our central starting-point, Albert Eiver, 
 GuK of Carpentaria. The course chosen was that which is 
 known as the " outside " passage through Torres Straits, in 
 preference to the " inside " one — a choice which proved 
 unfortunate ; for not only were the horses thus unnecessarily 
 tossed about, but also fresh supplies of water for them, 
 whether from the shore or the Victoria, were inaccessible. 
 The supply per day on board the Firefly amounted only to 
 
2 ..... yPYAGE, TO' CARPENTARIA. 
 
 five ' gallcils 'pe'r head/ tlie insufficiency of whicb., for horses, 
 confined on shipboard^ was, on a subsequent occasion, demon- 
 strated by tbe fact that they each drank, at one draught, as 
 much as eight gallons. It cannot therefore appear surprising 
 that our horses — on the condition of which, more than on any- 
 thing else, we were dependent for success — did not thrive. 
 
 For the first eight days of the voyage the Victoria kept us 
 in sight, and Captain Kirby, of the Firefly, received from time 
 to time the requisite sailing and other instructions from 
 Captain Norman, of the Victoria. But during the rough 
 weather of Sunday, the 24th, the ships lost sight of each 
 other. Captain Kirby, having succeeded in obtaining, on the 
 following day, an almost momentary, though sufficient, sight 
 of the sun, boldly made for the inside of the reefs. Between 
 11 and 12 a.m. we sighted Eaine Island beacon, and in the 
 course of the afternoon succeeded in getting within the reefs 
 and into smooth water. We considered ourselves fortunate in 
 having undoubtedly escaped serious dangers, as our ship was 
 leaky and otherwise disabled, whilst the horses were greatly 
 distressed. Our only loss was that of one of the best horses, 
 which, from having had the sand washed from under his feet, 
 lost his footing and got trampled to death by his companions. 
 
 It soon became evident that, either from misfortune or mis- 
 management, our refuge was a delusion and a snare ; for, 
 although Hardy's Island presented, on the lee side of any of 
 them, apparently excellent facilities for anchorage, we cast 
 anchor before having reached a sufficiently sheltered situation. 
 The consequence was that the cable dragged, and that we were 
 driven right on the lee shore, a position by no means the most 
 comfortable in which to pass the night. On the following 
 morning, the 4:th, the cable snapped, and the brig grounded 
 
VOYAGE TO CAEPENTAEIA. 3 
 
 broadside on tlie reef. As tlie waves presently broke over the 
 ship, the masts were at once cut away, in order to ease her. 
 
 Ill positions of danger, it often happens that acts of heroism 
 come from the most unexpected quarters : in our case no less 
 a functionary than the cook bore off the palm. For, at a 
 moment which might have been his last, and when we were 
 preparing to swim for our lives, he appeared before us with his 
 accustomed naval precision, and served coffee. As we antici- 
 pated a glorious drenching, it is to be hoped that the most 
 cynical teetotaller will excuse our having qualified that 
 beverage with a certain liquid of a more potent and less 
 innocent nature. We then set vigorously to work in order to 
 make the best of our misfortune ; and, next to ourselves, it 
 was of the utmost importance that we should rescue the 
 expedition stores and horses, without damage or delay. As 
 the smallest boat, on being lowered, was at once dashed in 
 pieces, we were reduced to the solitary resource of the larger 
 ship's boat, the launching of which required great care, no less 
 on account of the floating spars and masts, than the violence 
 of the breakers. The task of clearing away the obstructions 
 was boldly and adroitly executed by a Dutchman, named 
 Miiller. He plunged into the surf, and, by dint of tugging 
 and pushing, succeeded, with infinite difficulty, in freeing the 
 drift, while we occupied ourselves with watering and baiting 
 the horses. At length the ship's boat was securely lowered, 
 and we landed in safety. At ebb tide we were glad to find 
 that, provided the vessel would hold together, the water was 
 sufficiently shallow to admit of the cargo being carried on 
 shore. 
 
 Mr. Martin, the supercargo, and myself, immediately on 
 
 landing, proceeded to the other side of the island, where we 
 
 b2 
 
4 VOYAGE TO CARPENTARIA. 
 
 had descried, on the previous evening, the masts of a ship. 
 We hoped to procure assistance from her crew, but the ship 
 proved to be a wreck. "We came upon an abandoned camp, 
 containing the following relics : The Argus newspaper of June 
 14th, a barrel of peas,, fragments of paper bearing the names 
 of the Lad^ Kinnaird, and of Captain Chorley, part of a 
 child's dress, backs of turtles, large cockle-shells,, &c. "We 
 subsequently learned that the wreck was that of the Lady 
 Kinnaird, bound for India, with a cargo of horses. Having 
 sprung a leak, she had run for this spot, where she remained 
 afloat just long enough to allow of the passengers and crew 
 landing. 
 
 On returning to our companions we found the crew busily 
 engaged in carr3ribig our stores on shore. Captain Kirby 
 preferred not risking the ship's boat in that service, as it would 
 in all probabiHty have to be employed in the more essential 
 one of transporting ourselves to the mainland. In the 
 evening I went on board the Firefly^ in order to see that the 
 horses were as comfortable as the circumstances would allow. 
 Mr. Campbell volunteered to remain beside them all night, but 
 as some of the sailors had already broached the spirits, I was 
 not justified in accepting an offer to do what I was. myself not 
 disposed to undertake. 
 
 I cannot here forbear recording that the events which 
 followed the wreck of the Firejly were not an exception to the 
 general rule in such misfortunes. The crew considered them- 
 selves freed from all engagements, legal or moral. Eiot and 
 drunkenness became the order of the day ; and not only did 
 the officers not attempt to control the crew, but they actually 
 encouraged insubordination by such expressions as that " Jack 
 was as good as his master" that " the cargo of a wreck 
 
VOYAGE TO CAEPENTAEIA. 
 
 to any one who chose to take it;'' or by direct 
 instigation, as, for example, " There are twenty-two pairs of 
 expedition boots : help yourselves. That will he a pair each 
 for all hands, and a pair to spare'' In short, I soon saw that 
 if I did not bestir myself and my staff to rescue the horses, 
 the work which I had undertaken would there and then end 
 ingloriously. 
 
 Accordingly, on the afternoon of Thursday, the 5 th, I 
 hired the carpenter and Miiller, for the sum of five pounds, to 
 cut a hole in the ship's side close to the water's edge, in order 
 to release the horses at low water. And after having found a 
 good place on the island for watering the horses, I joined them 
 with Messrs. Campbell and Martin, and my three native 
 assistants. The only tools at our command were two adzes 
 and two small tomahawks ; but my black-fellows plied the 
 latter with so much dexterity, that we were not long in 
 accomplishing our task. The following day was occupied in 
 landing twenty-five of the horses ; and this we found to be a 
 task of no ordinary difficulty. Although it was low water 
 during the time so employed, we had to use every precaution 
 to prevent the horses swimming out to sea. Some of them, 
 in the first instance, got confused, and swam hopelessly here 
 and there, till exhaustion compelled them to yield to the 
 waves, which at length drifted them on shore. One, indeed, 
 battled against wind and waves for above an hour, and finally 
 succeeded in reaching the southern island, a mile distant, from 
 which, however, he was afterwards recovered safe and sound. 
 Of the whole number, four were trampled under foot, and all 
 but killed. 
 
 It was lucky that we found on this insular desert sufficient 
 grass and water, as the horses were thereby re-invigorated, in 
 
6 VOYAGE TO CARPENTARIA. 
 
 compensation for their late hardsliips. This island, in fact, 
 presents in an eminent degree, if I may be allowed the 
 expression, the best conveniences for shipwreck : wood, water, 
 shell and other fish abound. Add to these advantages, that at 
 the period of our visit, the constant sea-breezes rendered the 
 climate very enjoyable. It will probably not be long before 
 these bounties of nature are appreciated and utiHsed by some 
 enterprising settler. 
 
 On Saturday, the 7th, while engaged in attending to the 
 four sickly horses, we were delighted to see the Victoria 
 approaching. Captain Norman, on his arrival, having learnt 
 that the Firefly was a wreck, and that the crew claimed the 
 privileges of shipwrecked mariners, set vigorously to work to 
 contrive the means of still making use of the Firefly for her 
 original purpose. I was cheered by his hopeful view of the 
 case, and my anxieties were entirely set at rest by his 
 assurance that, should his efforts fail, he would undertake to 
 convey my party and appurtenances, in the Victoria, to our 
 destination. 
 
 Captain Norman's first task was the reduction of the 
 mutinous crew to some kind of discipline — an essential step 
 towards which was the instant destruction of the wines and 
 spirits on board the hulk, and the re-establishment of the law 
 of meum and tuum, by ordering the restoration of stolen 
 property. Then, having lightened the brig as much as possible, 
 he tried to pull her off, at flood tide, by means of the Victoria. 
 After several attempts, which had proved futile, on account of 
 the hulk having become firmly embedded in the reef, we were 
 at length delighted by seeing her afloat. 
 
 While the horses were being re-embarked, and the fittings 
 replaced, my companions were busily engaged in collecting a 
 
VOYAGE TO CAEPENTAEIA. 7 
 
 stock of fodder. This was by no means easy, as we were 
 unprovided with any implements but knives for cutting grass ; 
 but in this kind of work my black assistants were remarkably 
 handy. All the preliminary arrangements being made, we 
 were again in motion ; and as I steamed along on board the 
 Victoria, which towed the miserable hulk on which all my 
 cares were centred, I was inspirited by the grateful, and 
 happily not uncommon reflection, that *' things might have 
 been worse." I did not overlook the debt of gratitude I 
 owed to Captain Norman, not only for having traced us so 
 cleverly, but also for having by his promptitude and vigour 
 retrieved the fortunes of the expedition. Nor can I omit to 
 record my thanks to the members of my party, each and all 
 of whom behaved with endurance and self-possession, and, I 
 may add, with strict integrity in moments of temptation. 
 
CHAPTER II. 
 "Fogagc to ©arpentarta (continued). 
 
 Post Office Island— Escape and Recovery of the i^jsVe/y— Bountiful 
 Island — CatcMng Turtle — Bentinck and Sweer's Islands— Traces of 
 Flinders and Establishment of Depot on Sweer's Island. 
 
 The next object of interest was Post OfiSce Island — a name 
 ■whicli requires a word of explanation. It is a small, bleak, 
 and barren island, situated at the eastern entrance to Torres 
 Straits ; and, from its position, it bas long been used by 
 mariners as a place of call. In a dreary cave, a rough Log 
 Book is preserved, in which they are expected to inscribe the 
 name, port of departure, destination, and cargo of their ship. 
 Well-provisioned ships are also expected to leave a supply of 
 necessary stores, as a resource for others in distress. It is not 
 much to the credit of civilised humanity that such stores are 
 not unfrequently appropriated by crews not in distress. Still, 
 this original and self-supporting postal institution subserves, 
 on the whole, a useful purpose. For example, it was there 
 that we learned the details of the wreck of the Lady Kinnaird 
 on Hardy's Island.* 
 
 We anchored there for the night. When morning dawned, 
 
 the ill-starred Firefly was nowhere to be seen. Taking 
 
 advantage of the loosed tow-rope, she had broken away from 
 
 her imperfect moorings, and had made for the open sea in the 
 
 dead of the night. Being, however, descried vanishing in the 
 
 distant horizon, the Victoria gave chase, and brought her 
 
 back covered with dishonour. 
 
 * The proposed settlement at Cape York, selected by Sir George 
 Bowen, will remedy the inconveniences alluded to. 
 
VOYAGE TO CARPENTAEIA. \f 
 
 We next called at Bountiful Island, in order to procure a 
 supply of fresh food in the agreeable shape of turtles, in 
 which that island abounds. In the course of the afternoon 
 Captain Norman and I went on shore, and walked over the 
 island. It is a sandy and altogether uninteresting place, 
 frequented only by flocks of pigeons and sea fowls, some of 
 which we shot. The first night, about a hundred turtles 
 were caught in my absence ; and though this was a sufiicient 
 supply, I remained on shore the following night in order to 
 secure more, mainly with the view of learning the process of 
 catching, A sailor, who was my companion, disgusted with 
 his first tedious and unproductive watch, " turned in " early 
 in the night ; but, somewhat later, while sauntering along the 
 beach, I observed that several had come ashore. Having 
 roused the sailor, we were not long in securing twenty by the 
 speedy and simple act of turning them on their backs.* So 
 prolific is this archipelago in that delicious food that I wonder 
 enterprising speculators have overlooked it. Preserved turtle 
 would be a by no means unworthy accompaniment of the 
 ordinary canister viands that are now used to vary the ever- 
 lasting salt junk of earlier voyages and travels. 
 
 On the following day we reached Investigator Eoads, 
 situated between Bentinck and Sweer's Islands. These Eoads 
 afford excellent anchorage, and are distant about seventeen 
 miles from the mouth of the Albert Eiver. Bentinck Island 
 is about thirty miles in circumference ; Sweer's, only three : 
 both are well grassed and wooded. 
 
 On our arrival, we found the coal tenders had been await- 
 
 * The aborigines of York Peninsula ingeniously catch the turtle by 
 means of the common " sucker-polype." This they attach to a string, 
 and allow to sink, when it customarily alights on the back of the first 
 convenient turtle, which is then easily drawn to the surface. 
 
10 VOYAGE TO CARPENTARIA. . 
 
 ing us for some time. The masters had, it seems, spent the 
 interval in visiting Albert Eiver, with the hope of finding 
 Burke's party. They had procured supplies of water from 
 Bentinck Island, though apprehensive of danger from the 
 natives. 
 
 In the afternoon, Captain Norman and I landed on Sweer's 
 Island to reconnoitre, and more especially to discover the 
 wells, sunk there by Flinders. We found the wells, but they 
 were choked with sand. We also came upon a tree on which 
 " Investigator " was carved, and the word was still quite 
 legible, though cut so far back as 1802, probably by the hand of 
 the unfortunate Flinders.* Captain Norman determined to re- 
 pair the wells, and to form near them a depot for his super- 
 fluous ship's stores. We then selected a place on the beach, 
 within the tidal line, for forming an enclosure for the turtles. 
 Further inland we found the grass of good quality, and fit 
 for cutting, a discovery which pleased us both, as the sheep 
 we had on board could now have the advantage of grazing, and 
 my horses that of fresh fodder, in which we were running short. 
 For all practical purposes, Sweer's was preferable to Bentinck 
 Island : on the simple ground that the latter was inhabited 
 by hostile blacks, while the former is only visited by them at 
 distant intervals. Their means of transit consists, not of 
 canoes, but of rude rafts formed from logs tied together with 
 strings of plaited bark. 
 
 * Having spent several years in various laborious and important 
 surveys, Flinders, the discoverer of Carpentaria, when on his return home, 
 during the period of the Napoleonic wars, was unjustly detained for six 
 years by the Governor of the Mauritius. 
 
CHAPTER III. 
 ITogagc to Carpentaria (continued). 
 
 Exploration of the Albert River — Kangaroo Point — Description of 
 the Eiver — Plains of Promise — "Wood's Lake — Fitness of the 
 Country for Farming Purposes — Return to the Victoria. 
 
 As the Albert Eiver had not been surveyed since it was 
 hurriedly ascended by Captain Stokes,* Captain Norman 
 commissioned Lieutenant "Woods to make a survey ; to buoy 
 the sand-banks at its mouth, and to endeavour to find a land- 
 ing place for the horses. To assist him in the last-mentioned 
 object, as well as to select a spot for a depot with a view to 
 my land operations, I accompanied him, along with my two 
 blacks. Jemmy and Jacky. 
 
 "We left the Victoria in one of her boats on the evening of 
 September 13 th, and arrived at the mouth of the Albert 
 early in the morning. Here we found a bar which can be 
 crossed by vessels of average draught, only at high water ; 
 but being composed of alluvial deposits, the bar is doubtless 
 removable by dredging. The point on our left and on the 
 right bank of the river, known as Kangaroo Point, would, 
 from its position and elevation, prove a good site for a town- 
 ship : the further bank is low, and presents a dense mass of 
 mangrove. We descried a dozen blacks who ran along the 
 shore, and kept shouting to us as long as we were within 
 hearing ; but their language was unintelligible to Jemmy and 
 Jacky. I 
 
 * In 1842 he found it navigable for thirteen miles, for vessels of 
 thirteen feet draught, to within five miles of where the water is fresh, 
 t That is, considerably less intelligible to each other than the 
 
12 VOYAGE TO CARPENTARIA. 
 
 The river has an unbroken fringe of mangrove for above 
 two miles on both banks.* Beyond this, the banks are 
 occasionally sloping, free from mangrove, and composed of 
 stiff sand. At a distance of twenty miles from the estuary, 
 the water was still fresh. The fringes of mangrove became 
 scarce, and the ground rose from the river-level, displaying 
 well grassed and sparsely timbered plains. We anchored at 
 sunset, twenty-six miles from the mouth of the Albert, at the 
 
 Yorkstireman is to the Cockney. The aboriginal tongue is divided into 
 a variety of dialects, some of which are so distinct from each other that 
 they appear to the non- philological ear to have no affinity. Every tribe, 
 whose hunting ground seldom exceeds thirty square miles, has its own 
 peculiar vernacular. Blacks can, however, as a general rule, speak the 
 dialects of neighbouring tribes ; and they acquire this knowledge with 
 remarkable ease. They also learn English with little difficulty, and, 
 when acquired, it is often talked by natives of different tribes, when 
 they meet. As with foreigners who profess a knowledge of English, 
 they feel complimented by being addressed in our language. One of 
 their greatest phonic obstacles is, the articulation of the letter s. They, 
 therefore, naturally avoid words containing sibilant sounds ; for example, 
 for horse they prefer to say yarraman, and for sheep, monkey or jumbuck. 
 
 It should further be noted that, though Queen's English is spoken by 
 a few with fair purity, the so-called "English" of the blacks is a jargon. 
 This jargon is the ordinary medium of conversation between the native 
 and the settler ; and many of the less-informed settlers imagine all 
 slang words to be genuine local, instead of anglicized corruptions of 
 primitive, words, coined by now extinct tribes, perhaps at the period of 
 the first colonisation. 
 
 The following is a colloquial sample of the hybrid tongue above 
 alluded to : — 
 
 Settler. — When peeke bong putum yarraman belonging to mine alonga 
 yarra yarra. 
 
 [At sunset, put my horse in the paddock.] 
 
 Native. — Yo-ai, me fetchum yarraman ; an you give it flour, sugar- 
 bag, chirt, an kabon fellow bacco, bel breakam. 
 
 [Yes ; I will fetch the horse, and you shall give me some flour, sugar, 
 a shirt, and a big fig (piece) of tobacco, not broken (whole).] 
 
 * The general character of the Carpentaria coast is low and alluvial, 
 and presents from the sea-board the aspect of an extended plain. The 
 tide is peculiar : it is irregular — occumng sometimes at intervals of 
 twenty-tour hours ; and it rises as high as eighteen feet. The rivers, as 
 in all flat countries, have a tendency to separate into different channels, 
 forming deltas. 
 
VOYAGE TO CARPENTARIA. 13 
 
 junction of Beame's Brook with tlie Albert, Witliin a 
 hundred yards of the west bank, I found a water hole much 
 more convenient for watering stock than the river, whose 
 banks are here too steep for that purpose. 
 
 Next morning we continued our voyage, but at a distance 
 of two miles, our progress was stopped by snags* which here 
 abound. We therefore landed, and took a walk over the 
 " Plains of Promise." Presently we surprised a black man 
 and woman, both old and naked ; the former vanished down 
 the bank, and plunged into the river, the latter took refuge 
 in a tree, where she pertinaciously remained in speechless 
 terror. The channel of the river, at this point, was muddy, 
 and so narrow that we contrived to cross over on the trunk of 
 a tree, which the carpenter had felled for that purpose. The 
 water was cool from being shaded by the pandanas, palms, 
 and Leichhardt trees. We found no traces of exploring 
 parties, but, as a possible guide to others, we marked several 
 trees before returning to our boat — on reaching which, we 
 dropped down the river a short distance, and anchored for the 
 night over against the cliffs that are marked in the charts as 
 being thirty feet high. 
 
 In the morning, I landed with Jemmy and Jacky, and pro- 
 ceeded north-westerly over well grassed and slightly timbered 
 plains. A walk of two miles brought us to a narrow mere, 
 which I named Wood's Lake. Aquatic birds were so plentiful 
 here that Jacky killed, at one discharge of his gun, half a 
 dozen whistling ducks and a large grey crane. Skirting the 
 southern edge of the lake, we came to a clump of box and 
 tea-trees. At this spot I marked a tree, reflecting, while so 
 engaged, on the probability of this being ere long the chosen 
 * Snags, i.e., fallen trees or branches stuck fast in the river- bed. 
 
14: VOYAGE TO CARPENTARIA. 
 
 site for the head-quarters of a sheep station, for which this 
 district is, in all respects, admirably fitted. 
 
 On the following day we found ourselves again three miles 
 above Kangaroo Point, without having met with any note- 
 worthy incident, excepting a " turn-out " of about twenty 
 blacks, who surveyed our progress with looks of mingled 
 wonder and apprehension. 
 
 On going ashore, we started on the wing two large bustards 
 and some wallabies.* We also saw large quantities of small, 
 white cockatoos, as well as rose-coloured ones, which in 
 New South Wales and the settled country of Queensland 
 are only to be found inland. On the upper part of the river, 
 we observed three crocodiles, but they were glad to get out of 
 our way with all despatch. Neither mosquitoes nor sand 
 flies troubled us at night, and our repose was undisturbed, 
 except by a sudden panic occasioned by the nightmare of one 
 of our companions. The thermometer ranged from 84* to 94°. 
 This is altogether a most promising field for the sheep farmer, 
 and, with its slightly timbered and well grassed downs and 
 plains, together with its superior water communication, it can 
 stand a favourable comparison with what has been proved to 
 be good country in the southern portions of Australia. On 
 the score of timber for building purposes, the smallness of the 
 trees is certainly a drawback, but this is a disadvantage of 
 easy cure| and one which is fully compensated for by the 
 direct benefit accruing to the grazier from the deficiency in 
 question. Then as to the more slowly advancing agriculturist, 
 
 * A small kind of Kangaroo. 
 
 t The cabbage palm, which abounds higher up the Albert, might tem- 
 porarily answer the building requirements of the pioneer : later, of 
 course, importation would do the rest. In fact, wire fencing, together 
 with brick or mud huts, comprise the essential wants of the Squatter 
 in the way of building. 
 
VOYAGE TO CAEPENTAEIA. 15 
 
 treading on the heels of the retreating Squatter ; the 
 unhmited plains of rich soil, easily yielding to the plough, 
 which stretch from either bank of the Albert, form a country 
 peculiarly suitable for tillage. The Summer rains, speaking 
 roughly from my own experience, are amply sufficient for the 
 growth of cereals, while other objects of culture which require 
 long continued moisture might be conveniently developed by 
 means of the Eg3rptian system of irrigation. 
 
 On our arrival at the Victoria, we found that the coal 
 tenders had been unloaded, water procured from Sweer's Island 
 out of Flinders Well, and the enclosure for the turtles con- 
 structed. With regard to that epicurean dainty, I may add that 
 we were all by this time heartily tired of it, and that Jack Tar 
 would have none of it. The eggs, however, continued to be 
 relished. 
 
CHAPTER IV. 
 
 ^ogagc to Carpentaria (continued). 
 
 Absence of Burke's Tracks on the Albert, and Proposed Journey to 
 Central Mount Stuart — Personal Preference for a Different Eoute — 
 The Firefly Converted into a Depot— Voyage up the Albert — 
 Rencontre with Natives — Landing the Horses — Visit from the 
 Natives — The Nicholson River — Excursion to Beame's Brook 
 Confluence— Condition of the Horses. 
 
 It is necessary to mention here that the Albert had, from 
 
 having been so well made known by Stokes, become the 
 
 appointed or understood rendez-vous for exploring parties ; and 
 
 that, therefore, traces of Burke would probably be found here, 
 
 in case he had succeeded in penetrating so far north.* 
 
 Ignorant as I then was of the catastrophe that had befallen 
 
 Burke's party, I was of course grievously disappointed on 
 
 finding no indications of their having been here. I therefore 
 
 proceeded to put into execution the instructions of the Eoyal 
 
 Society of Melbourne to make for Central Mount Stuart, in 
 
 order to see if Burke had selected that route with the design 
 
 of completing Mr. Stuart's journey, which, as is now well 
 
 known, he had not. I may here state that the track has 
 
 since been completed by Mr. Stuart himself, i.e., in 1862. It 
 
 was doubtless unfortunate that Mr. Walker had not arrived 
 
 from his overland journey from Rockhampton, as the news he 
 
 subsequently brought, of having fallen on Burke's track to the 
 
 east of the Albert, would have rendered my expedition to the 
 
 south-west unnecessary ; but neither could I anticipate such 
 
 * It may be noted that Burke reached the Flinders, fifty miles east- 
 ward from the Albert. 
 
VOYAGE TO CARPENTARIA. 17 
 
 news, nor longer delay my departure, whicli tlie wreck of tlie 
 Firefly Lad already too long protracted. 
 
 Bound, as I was, by the instructions of the Eoyal Society 
 of Melbourne, I had emphatically no business to be influenced 
 by my own opinion of them ; still, there can be no harm in 
 here stating that both Mr. Gregory and myself considered 
 that the most probable route for finding traces of Burke was 
 in a south-easterly direction from the Albert — ^namely, to 
 skirt the supposed desert* of Central Australia, and make for 
 the head of Cooper's Creek, thence following its course to 
 Burke's starting point. But as I could not, in the first 
 instance, at least, execute this plan, my wish was, after 
 reaching Mount Stuart and possibly failing to find there traces 
 of Burke — to make direct for Cooper's Creek, f instead of 
 returning to the Albert. Captain Norman, however, con- 
 sidered it better for me to return, and he agreed to wait for 
 me ninety days. This being the final decision, it remained to 
 fix a depot on the Albert, my own project of a south-easterly 
 expedition being, for the present, left in abeyance. J 
 
 It was determined to transfer the hulk of the Firefly 
 twenty miles up the Albert, and to use it as the depot. The 
 Firefly was accordingly towed by the Victoria to the mouth of 
 the Albert, and, though the river was navigable even for the 
 Victoria beyond the proposed depot, it was decided that the 
 Firefly should work her own way to her last home. With 
 Lieutenant Woods as commander, and myself on board, the 
 
 * The reader should be informed that even so late as 1861, the best 
 charts were a complete blank between the tidal rise of the Albert and 
 Stuart's farthest in 1845, being a distance of 400 miles north and south, 
 as the crow flies. 
 
 t Burke's starting point, and where he had his depot. 
 
 X Subsequently, as the sequel will show, carried out by me. 
 
18^ VOYAGE TO CABPENTABIA. 
 
 Firefly accordingly stood in for the Albert at flood-tide on the 
 evening of the 14th of October. On account of the winding 
 channel and the awkwardness of our craft, it was found more 
 convenient to run the Firefly over the bar 5 and, though 
 drawing nine feet, she accomphshed her task. On reaching 
 Norman's group of Islands, ten miles up the river, it became 
 necessary, from our small supply of water, to decide respecting 
 the landing of the horses. Three parties accordingly stai-ted 
 to reconnoitre the water resources of the adjacent country. 
 My party, comprising Mr. Bourne, Mr. Hennie, the botanist, 
 and two native troopers, went eastward six miles. The first 
 half of our journey lay over hard, mud flats, which are flooded 
 at high tide ; the remainder was over rich plains, covered with 
 the best grasses ; and the abundance of salty herbage, jointly 
 with their general aspect, reminded us of the Murrumbidgee 
 plains. The higher parts were thickly grassed and sparsely 
 wooded with box, white gum, cotton, and other trees. We 
 found water-holes in abundance, some containing fresh, others 
 brackish water. Of the last quahty was the north-easterly 
 one, which I called Lake Mailer. 
 
 Early in our journey, we observed several blacks, at different 
 points on the plains. Charlie, one of my black assistants, 
 gave chase to three girls, who fled to their camp, where we 
 subsequently overtook them. We asked them, by signs, for 
 the direction of the nearest water-hole, and they indicated it 
 by pointing. Terrified as they were, they could not restrain 
 themselves from examining our articles of dress, which were 
 doubtless an entirely new object to their eyes. 
 
 On returning to the Firefly, we found that the other two 
 parties had been equally successful in finding water-holes on 
 the western bank, and as one of these, named Frost's Ponds, 
 
VOYAGE TO CAEPENTAEIA. 19 
 
 four miles up, was tlie most convenient, we walked the horses 
 on shore and drove them thither. After a few days' recruiting, 
 they were forwarded to Moore's Ponds, situated near the depot. 
 These ponds had been discovered by a sporting party, on the 
 twentieth, and the discovery was certainly of more consequence 
 than the meagre bagful of game, with which they returned, 
 although they had seen several wallabies on the plains, and 
 crowds of ducks and other aquatic birds at the water-holes on 
 their route. 
 
 On the twenty-fourth, a party of blacks voluntarily paid us 
 a visit ; we gave them presents, and their gratitude was exhi- 
 bited in the theft of certain clothes that lay in their way. 
 Lieutenant Woods gave them a lecture on the laws of property, 
 but, as he laboured under the same disadvantage as Goldsmith 
 when he went to teach English to the Dutch, namely, an entire 
 ignorance of the language of his hearers, I fear their notions of 
 morality remained as ingenuous as before. When I see poor 
 blacks I feel sorely tempted to make them presents of clothes, 
 tomahawks and the like ; but so willing is indigent black, as 
 well as white, humanity to be pauperized, that I have always 
 found that ''the more they get, the more they want" and that 
 the less they get, the less do they seek our company, and the less 
 likely therefore are we to come into hostile collision with them. 
 Hearing from Mr. Campbell that, in one of his excursions, he 
 had come upon a large river running parallel to the Albert, I 
 retraced the track in order to see whether or not it was the 
 Nicholson that he alluded to. The result was as I expected. 
 It was not so broad as the Albert, and the water was not so 
 brackish. The space intervening between the right bank of 
 the Nicholson and the bend of the Albert, near Wood's Ponds, 
 
 was a stretch of seven miles of a finely grassed plain. An 
 
 c 2 
 
20 VOYAGE TO CARPENTAEIA. 
 
 enclosure for sheep or cattle might here be easily formed by 
 running a fence across from the Albert to the Nicholson. 
 
 When the Firefly had been securely moored, Captain Norman 
 came and appointed a guard for the protection of the depot. 
 He had the ulterior design of witnessing my departure, and of 
 awaiting Mr. Walker's arrival. Before leaving, I accompanied 
 him in a boating excursion as far as the junction of Beame's 
 Brook with the Albert. There we found trees marked both 
 by Mr. Gregory and Captain Chimmo, on the occasion when the 
 latter went to meet the former in his expedition of 1856. 
 
 Having marked several trees* for Mr. Walker's guidance 
 towards the depot, we hastened back. The horses were now 
 shod with all despatch : while this was being done, I was 
 equally glad and surprised to find that they were already in 
 such excellent working condition as to allow of our immediate 
 departure for Mount Stuart. Even two invahds — so weak 
 that on shipboard they had to be supported by slings — ^were 
 fit for work ; and, indeed, all of them were so remarkably 
 improved since their landing that I was impressed with the 
 conviction that there are few parts on any other sea-board of 
 Austraha where three months would have, in a similar measure, 
 suflBced to recruit them. This is excellent testimony to the 
 richness of the pasturage and the fitness of this district for 
 rearing horses for the Indian Market, which has the advantage 
 of being three weeks sail nearer than Sydney. 
 
 * The importance of marking trees properly cannot be overrated. 
 The marks should be made only on strong, healthy trees, and at con- 
 spicuous points ; and the directions should be unmistakeably clear and 
 accurate. 
 
•intra! Monnt ^tmxt 
 
CHAPTER V. 
 €!iptt)hion to ©antral ^tount Stuart. 
 
 Preparatory Drill— The Attempt to Start— The Start— Arrival at 
 Beame's Brook Junction— Discovery of the Eiver Gregory- 
 Rencontre with Blacks— Character of the Gregory— Our Daily 
 Work— My Sextant— Fording the Gregory. 
 
 As we liad appointed tlie following day for tlie start, I 
 devoted the fifteenth of November to drilling the men* into 
 the art of packing the horses and to accustoming the horses 
 themselves to being packed, — ^both operations being less easy 
 than the uninitiated would imagine. The equal adjustment 
 of the weights, the strength of the straps and security of the 
 fastenings — ^not as they are presented immediately to the eye, 
 but mediately through every possible variety of jogging and 
 jolting — are points which experience alone can approximately 
 anticipate. The result of to-day's experiment was instructive 
 in a variety of ways. 
 
 Next day, the corresponding work was of a more earnest 
 character and attended with practical drawbacks. The horses 
 being still new to the sensation of packs, and finding them- 
 
 * My party consisted of Messrs. Camphell and Allison, and two hlack 
 assistants, Jemray and Fisherman. Mr. Bourne and Gleeson, along with 
 two natives, remained at the depot. I should have gladly taken two 
 additional hands, but this was impossible on account of the insufficiency 
 of the horses, — seven out of thirty having died from the unusual hard- 
 ships of the voyage. 
 
 I should also' mention, that I had calculated on a promise made to me 
 at Brisbane, to have the astronomical services of Lieutenant "Woods, who 
 had fully equipped himself for his duties. Captain Allison and myself 
 managed as best we could with our extremely imperfect apparatus : our 
 shortcomings in a geographical point of view will, therefore, I hope, be 
 rightly understood. 
 
24 EXPEDITION TOWARDS MOUNT STUART. 
 
 selves again encumbered witli unexpected and unintelligible 
 burdens, availed themselves of their freedom and dispersed to 
 and fro in picturesque confusion. Those that were adepts at 
 that noted equine manoeuvre, ''buck-jumping," applied it with 
 effect ; for many of the packs presently became either 
 " conspicuous by their absence " or hung dangling and swaying 
 about, to the increased confusion and dismay of their bearers. 
 The work of collecting the horses, and repairing the damages, 
 delayed our departure till the afternoon. 
 
 Provisions,* packs, horses, and men, being at length in 
 readiness, we made a final start ; but failed to make remarkably 
 rapid progress, on account, partly of the continued restiveness 
 of the horses, partly of the exhibition of a similar quality on the 
 part of the men ; occasioned, in the latter instance, by the 
 novelty of the work, in combination with that jollity which is 
 the natural consequence of festive adieus. 
 
 Towards evening, a mob of the wilder pack horses were 
 descried disappearing in the distance, though fortunately in 
 the right direction. As darkness was setting in, we were 
 obliged to follow their tracks with all speed, and I, meanwhile, 
 despatched one of my black boys ahead. He, in turn, proved 
 no less difficult to find, but by dint of constant coo-y-ing,f we 
 at length succeeded in rejoining each other. On mustering 
 
 * Supplies of food for five men for ninety days. 
 
 Flour 4.50 lbs. 
 
 Meat 226 do. 
 
 Sugar 100 do. 
 
 Tea 14 do. 
 
 I^«"i • . 5 gallons. 
 
 We had also a small supply of medicine and lime juice ; a pocket 
 sextant, thermometer, and compass. We also carried an assortment of 
 tools, firearms, and ammunition. The horses amounted to twenty -three. 
 
 + Coo-oo-oo-y is a shrill treble sound much used in the bush by persons 
 wishful to find each other. On a still night, it will travel a couple of 
 miles, and it is thus highly serviceable to lost or benighted travellers. 
 
EXPEDITION TOWARDS MOUNT STUART. 25 
 
 the horses, we were glad to find that none were missing ; and, 
 on presently coming to a lagoon, we pitched our first camp.* 
 
 After a refreshing sleep, we were astir at daylight. Break- 
 fast over, Jemmy and Fisherman brought up the horses, while 
 I repaired saddle straps and branded trees with my initials, f 
 The labours of the previous day had sobered down the horses, 
 and we drove them on Fisherman's guiding track without 
 difficulty, A few hours' ride over a fine, undulating country 
 
 * As all the operations of encamping are almost uniformly alike, I 
 shall here detail them, in order to avoid the monotony of repetition : — 
 
 1. The first thing is to hobble the horses, that is, to fetter their forelegs 
 with a chain, attached to the fetlocks by two straps. But as you must 
 catch your hare before you cook it, so must you first catch the horses, 
 which is not by any means easy when they are wild. This is done by 
 one or two horsemen surrounding and driving them into a group or, so 
 called, "mob." They are then haltered and led singly to the proposed 
 encampment ; there unloaded, and each separate pack covered with the 
 saddle so as to be convenient for the start. 
 
 2. Fires are then lit, and water is carried in canvas bags, from the 
 nearest water hole. 
 
 3. The rations for the next twenty- four hours are then served out by a 
 specially appointed person, and, in our case, these consisted of I lb. of 
 flour, ~ lb. of meat, with a small quantity of tea, sugar, rum, and lime- 
 juice. 
 
 4. As to cooking, each man boils a quart of water in a tin can. When 
 the water boils, the tea is thrown in and allowed to stand a short time with 
 the drinking- tin on the top : so made, tea is considered by bushmen highly 
 palatable. A large quantity of charcoal is then made in preparation for 
 the baking of the "damper," which consists of cakes or bannocks of 
 flour, salt and water. The dried meat is boiled in tin pots, colonially 
 termed " billies." The social pipe finishes the day's work. 
 
 5. While the cooking is going on, the tents are being erected on a 
 suitable piece of ground, if possible, previously trenched. The bedding 
 consists of fresh cut grass covered with oilcloth and blankets. As the 
 climate of Australia is so favourable for camping out, tents are sometimes 
 an unnecessary luxury. I frequently dispensed with their use, although, 
 on all sufficiently convenient opportunities, I took care to have them 
 erected, both on account of possible rain and for the sake of discipline. 
 On all occasions we kept our usual watches, except when camping after 
 dark, there being then less danger from the blacks. 
 
 t I subsequently used the tomahawk instead of the brand, as the 
 latter consumed so much time. The mark was the Government broad 
 arrow and L. — V. and Q. E. (Victoria and Queensland Expedition), to- 
 gether with the number of the camp and the date. 
 
26 EXPEDITION TOWARDS MOUNT STUART. 
 
 brouglit us to Beame's Brook junction witli tlie Albert, where 
 a boat was in waiting to convey letters to Captain Norman, 
 We waited here a day for two additional horses which were to 
 be forwarded from the depot. 
 
 Next morning (November 18th), we rode over the entirely 
 unexplored valley of Beame's Brook, leaving which on our 
 left, we struck through the thickly wooded margin of the 
 stream and rode four miles over plains, sparingly dotted, on 
 the lower ground, with clumps of trees. Here we touched 
 upon a bend of Beame's Brook, which, though here above the 
 tidal influence, is, nevertheless, a copious stream confined 
 in a narrow channel. Here we halted for the purpose of 
 marking trees, and for refreshments — the latter consisting 
 chiefly of a bud procured from one of the tall cabbage-tree 
 palms which adorn the banks. This bud makes an excellent 
 salad and was a sufficient repast for our party of five.* Our 
 course now lay over a continuation of the above mentioned 
 grassy plains, on which we noticed various saline herbs, so 
 pleasing to the Squatter's eye. Having been now five hours 
 in the saddle, we were on the look-out for a camping ground. 
 There being indications of a river-course to the north-west, 
 we went in that direction for about a mile, when we came 
 upon a tributary of the Nicholson, which I named the Gregory, f 
 At this point it was parted into four channels, the main one 
 running strong and clear — a by no means common feature of 
 Australian rivers during the dry season. The banks were 
 shaded by the drooping tea-tree, j like a gigantic weeping 
 
 * Pigweed (Portulaca) is a good substitute, and frequently served us 
 as such. 
 
 t The Surveyor-General of Queensland, so deservedly distinguished 
 as one of the first and best of Australian Explorers. 
 
 X Tea-tree, a variety of mela-leuca. 
 
EXPEDITION TOWARDS MOUNT STUART. 27 
 
 willow, and the swamp-oak,* while tlie higher parts were 
 crowned with flooded box.f 
 
 On the following morning, while engaged in packing the 
 horses, we observed a number of blacks watching our move- 
 ments from behind trees on the further bank. We approached 
 as near as the river would allow us and addressed them, 
 through Jemmy and Fishemian, but without being understood. 
 However, they appeared disposed to be friendly. 
 
 Following the right bank about two miles, we reached a 
 point situated at a bend of the river, which, from its position 
 and elevation, would be a good site for a stock station. As 
 the Gregory here crossed our proper route which lay to the 
 south-west, and as it was extremely probable that we should 
 find a feeder on the other side, the ascent of which would 
 answer our purpose, I was anxious to ford the river. But the 
 approach was so boggy as to be inaccessible to the heavily 
 laden pack horses. Soon, however, I was agreeably disap- 
 pointed by the course of the river being more from the south- 
 west, and this held good for a distance of thirteen miles, 
 when we pitched our fourth camp at the junction of a drj' 
 water course with the Gregory. 
 
 In the course of our journey, we had kept at some distance 
 from the river bank, only occasionally sighting it while cutting 
 off angles. Such glimpses sometimes displayed fine reaches ; 
 in fact, the body of water was so copious, that I could then 
 attribute the cause only to extensive rains in the interior. 
 
 Accordingly, until I ascertained the source to be local springs 
 at the base of the ranges that form the northern watershed^ 
 
 * Stoamp-oaJc, a variety of casuarina. 
 t Flooded-box, a variety of the eucalyptus. 
 
 X Also the southern, as the sequel will show. The geographer's attention 
 is called to this entirely imexpected feature of the Australian Continent. 
 
28 EXPEDITION TOWAEDS MOUNT STUAET. 
 
 of the Continent, I was buoyed up with the hope of being 
 able to penetrate the country with ease. This district was of 
 the same luxuriant description as that previously traversed, 
 namely, undulating, well grassed, and thinly wooded plains, 
 in the rear, and thickly wooded, alluvial flats, facing the 
 river. The low ground abounded in saline herbage, which 
 our horses relished extremely. 
 
 Wednesday, November 20t?i. — We were again in motion at 
 eight o'clock. After continuing to skirt the right bank of the 
 Gregory, we found it now trending away from our route ; and 
 we were accordingly anxious, as before, to cross. But for a 
 distance of thirteen miles, the margin of the river was so 
 boggy, and the stream so deep that we had again to encamp 
 without attaining our object. So inaccessible was the river 
 that we could not water the horses ; but the grass being 
 succulent, apparently from recent -showers, our four-footed 
 companions made shift without it. As an addition to our 
 supper we procured two cabbage palm buds ; on this occasion 
 we boiled them, and in that state they reminded us of that 
 most delicious of vegetables, asparagus. 
 
 By this time, we had discovered that the toils of travelling, 
 jointly with that of night watching, were altogether too 
 fatiguing and harassing to allow of any members of my 
 slender party devoting their attention to fishing and shooting. 
 As regards those toils, it is sufiScient to state that we were 
 awake, and more or less in activity, from dawn till dark ; and 
 that Mr. Campbell, Captain Allison, and myself, alternated the 
 watches after 10 p.m. — up to which hour the black assistants 
 remained on duty. 
 
 The mirrors of my sextant were so much injured during 
 the shipwreck at Hardy's Island, that the instrument was 
 
EXPEDITION TOWARDS MOUNT STUART. 29 
 
 useless for observation of the stars. The sun might have 
 been available in winter, but at this season, his position was 
 too vertical to allow of his meridian altitude being taken by 
 means of an artificial horizon. This drawback vexed me 
 exceedingly, and I was therefore much reheved by Captain 
 Allison's suggestion to use the plain as a horizon. 
 
 The moistness of our present encampment brought such a 
 host of mosquitoes into life, that sleep was next to impossible. 
 "We accordingly started at early dawn, and, after riding five 
 miles, the river began to assume a new character : the channel 
 became broader, and the bed gravelly. Here, therefore, we 
 resolved to cross. We found the western bank so boggy as to 
 require thick layers of grass to be strewn at the more 
 treacherous parts to prevent the horses from sinking. This 
 side of the river was lined with pandarius, with which I 
 became more intimately acquainted than desirable, for, while 
 leading over a restive horse, I stumbled backwards amidst the 
 formidable prickles of that plant, with no better protection 
 than my shirt.* 
 
 * At our crossing point we marked a tree on the right bank L.4--C. 
 the -}- being the hieroglyphic for " crossed here." 
 
CHAPTEE VI. 
 1Expet)ition totoartJj; i^ount Stuart (continued). 
 
 Flora of the Gregory — Macadam Creek — Eeturn to the Gregory— 
 The Character of the Country — Pack-Saddles— Rencontre with 
 Natives— Character of the Gregory — Suicide of a Horse — Mount 
 Kay and Stawell Creek — The O'Shannassey — Source of the Lower 
 Gregory. 
 
 In the hope of discovering a water-course more in our 
 direction,* we diverged to the right a distance of six miles, 
 but without result. Finding we were still in sight of the 
 luxuriant foUage that marked the course of the Gregory, we 
 returned to it, and encamped. In addition to the cabbage 
 palm, tea tree, and pandanus, previously mentioned as fringing 
 the river, I noticed the beautiful broad-leafed Leichhardt ; 
 while the bauhinia,f white cedar,;]: and bloodwood,§ dotted the 
 plains. At the camp we also found marjoram, which forms 
 a good substitute for tea. A ride of three miles, next 
 morning, brought us to a dried-up tributary of the Gregory, 
 which I named the Macadam. In order to see whether or not 
 
 * It will he observed that my almost invariable plan of exploring 
 country is, by following water courses, whether down or up, according 
 to my direction. In Australia the advantage lies in being thereby 
 tolerably secure of water, and in any country the plan is undoubtedly 
 the best, from a geographical point of view. In doing so, I arrogate no 
 merit to myself further than that of following a traditional practice, 
 originated by such men as Mitchell and Leichhardt. An incidental, but 
 extremely important advantage is, that such tracks are easily traced. 
 This being the understood method of modern exploration, I did not for 
 a moment imagine that Burke had not adopted it. 
 
 + Hauhinia, a bushy tree with a large white flower, like that of the 
 Sweet Briar. 
 
 X White Cedar, or Australian lilac {melia Australis) a very ornamental 
 tree, and one of the few deciduous trees of this Continent. 
 
 § Blood wood, of the Eucalyptus class, secreting gum; hence the name. 
 
EXPEDITION TOWARDS MOUNT STUART. 31 
 
 it led our way, we ascended its rugged, stony channel four 
 miles and a half, where we found a water-hole. Difficult and 
 uninteresting as this new route proved to be, this must not be 
 regarded as a bad criterion of the surrounding country ; for 
 in all the southern parts of Australia, the best grazing ground 
 often skirts creeks of a similar description.* 
 
 During the day, the heat had been so oppressive, and we 
 now found the water so tepid, and, from being frequented by 
 ducks and other birds, so oflPensive, that we anticipated a 
 wretched encampment. But later in the day a refreshing 
 breeze braced and enlivened us ; and our better humour was 
 further confirmed by the addition to our evening meal of 
 several ducks and rose-cockatoos, and abundance of little figs 
 plucked from a shady clump of trees hard by. 
 
 Next morning, after a ride of four and a half miles, with 
 eyes strained on the look out for water, we came upon a 
 remarkably fine reach, three hundred by forty yards in extent, 
 and fenced both above and below by transverse dykes of. 
 whitish basalt. Having watered the horses, and enjoyed a 
 bath, we continued to ascend the Macadam tUl we came in 
 view of a range of hiUs ; and, with the object partly of 
 feasting my eyes on this pleasing variation of the landscape, 
 partly of sketching the outlines and taking the bearings of the 
 hills, I rode out into the plains and made a considerable detour 
 before rejoining my party, who meanwhile plodded their weary 
 way up the creek, vainly trying to find another water-hole. 
 Impatient of our thirst, we were compelled to broach the- 
 leathern bottles, the newness of which had tainted and 
 discoloured the water ; but we drank it with eagerness. 
 
 * In the south, such a creek as the Macadam is termed a billy bonn^ 
 from the circumstance of the water carrier returning from it with his 
 pitcher {billy) empty {bong, literally dead). 
 
32 EXPEDITION TOWARDS MOUNT STUAET. 
 
 Heartily disgusted with the Macadam, we turned our backs 
 upon it, and made for our old friend, the Gregory, and, to our 
 great surprise and delight, a short ride brought us to its 
 hospitable banks. The Gregory, at this point, was a quarter 
 of a mile wide, running strong in two channels, the intervening 
 bar being covered with the usual flora. This is, indeed, the 
 finest looking inland river I have seen in Australia, watering 
 rich plains, sufficiently sparsely wooded for all pastoral 
 purposes. Since leaving the depot the country has been 
 uniformly qualified for carrying sheep, except perhaps during 
 the extremes of wet and drought. Nevertheless, parched as 
 the old grass was at the period of my visit, my horses 
 flourished on it as well as if they had been stable fed. This 
 grass was at places three feet high, and patches of green 
 young grass clothed the river side. 
 
 The following day, being Sunday, we claimed as a day of 
 rest for man and beast ; and, by way of treat, indulged in 
 such luxuries .as our humble stores and the adjoining cabbage 
 palms afforded.* 
 
 Monday, November 2^th. — ^Early in our start this morning 
 we had to halt for the purpose of adjusting a pack saddle 
 which had already given us constant annoyance. All the 
 others were fortunately constructed on Gregory's principle. f 
 A ride of three miles brought us to an outlet of the Gregory, 
 which we guessed, on good grounds, to be the Macadam, the 
 
 * Captain Allison here made a traverse table of our course, by which 
 we -were 55 geographical miles south, and 25 west from camp 2 ; and ia 
 latitude SO*" 45', longitude 39° 11'. The thermometer stood at 90'' 
 (J^'ahr.), at 7 a.m. and at 103®, at noon. 
 
 t The following description of Gregory's principle written by Mr. 
 Baine's for Galton's Art of Travel will be read with interest : — 
 
 *' The pack saddles were made after a model by Mr. Gregory, and are 
 the best 1 have yet seen. Two boards of light wood are connected by 
 bows of iron, l| inch wide and \ inch thick, with hooks inserted in 
 
EXPEDITION TO MOUNT STUAET. 33 
 
 partial upward tracing of whicli from a point further down 
 the Gregory had, on the previous Saturday, led us so close to 
 the main river. Doubtless, had we continued to follow the 
 Macadam, we should have emerged on the Gfregory at this 
 point. K so, the Macadam must be one of those subordinate 
 water-courses, peculiar to level countries, which, especially in 
 seasons of floods, diverge from a surcharged river, and after 
 making a circuitous excursion inland, return at some point 
 lower down to their parent stream.* 
 
 either side, for the pack-bags to hook on to. The straps for the breasting, 
 breechings, and girths, were screwed to the boards ; the crupper passed 
 through a ring on the after bow ; and a light pad, (which could easily 
 be taken out to be restuffed) was secured by small thongs, passed through 
 holes in the ends of the boards. "We had two girths, which, crossed each 
 other under the horse. (In unloading, the neck strap is unbuckled on 
 the near side, also the breasting and girths : and the whole is drawn off 
 behind.) 
 
 " The pack-bags were made of one width of canvas, turned so aa 
 to have no seam in the bottom. Pear-shaped pieces were sewn in, to 
 form ends, and rope was stitched along the seams, having eyes above, by 
 which the bag was hung upon the hooks. The floxu*-bags were made of 
 canvas, of the usual width, with a round bottom stitched into them. 
 The mouth was sewn up when full, and an oiled bag of the same size 
 drawn over it. 
 
 "When all our horses were saddled, the word "on packs" was 
 given. Dr. Mueller and I used to work together, and had our packs laid 
 out in pairs ; so that, when each horse was led between his bags, we 
 hooked them on at the same moment. "When we halted, we laid the bags 
 on a couple of poles, to keep them from the ground. 
 
 " The bags sometimes came off, when we were travelling, but it was 
 generally easy to catch the horse and reload him. "When a horse roUed 
 over, or fell in a river, it was rather an advantage than otherwise to get 
 clear of them. Our water-proof bags were of leather, lined with water- 
 proof cloth, just large enough to fill one of the canvas pack bags. They 
 had a brass neck with a worm inside, in which we screwed a plug of soft 
 wood. (There was rarely, if ever, occasion to use them.) Each pair of 
 bags was carefully balanced, one against the other, that the horses might 
 not be unequally loaded. The average weight of stores carried in each 
 bag was 75 lbs., making a load (at starting) of 150 lbs., exclusive of bags, 
 packages, or saddling. Bells were attached to the necks of the horses 
 most apt to stray, but the clappers were tied up with a piece of thong, 
 to keep them quiet on the march, and were loosened at night so that the 
 sound might guide us in searching for them next morning." 
 
 * This " ana-branch," as it is colonially termed, is a hydrographic 
 
 D 
 
34 EXPEDITION TO MOUNT STUART. 
 
 Separating from my party, I ascended a hill to view tlie 
 country ; and, to my chagrin, it presented to the eye, as far 
 as I could see, a barren and parched surface. On overtaking 
 my companions, I found them in intercourse with a group of 
 blacks — the second we had seen. They were composed of 
 three ugly black women and six children. 
 
 As before, we could extract no information from them ; and 
 they were so terrified that they kept close to the edge of the 
 water. On presenting a red gravat to one of them her fears 
 were effectually appeased, in confirmation of the truth of 
 Shakespeare's maxim : — 
 
 "Win her with gifts : 
 For presents in their silent kind, more sure 
 Than words, do win a woman's mind. 
 
 Indeed she became so affectionate to one of the party that 
 she wished to mount behind him on horseback : but her 
 proffered advances were ungallantly rejected. I had frequently 
 cause to regret our refusal, as her knowledge of the surrounding 
 
 feature, which is calculated to increase the available space of a dry 
 grazing country to the extent of two thirds. 
 
 This takes for granted that the Squatter is acquainted with the most 
 approved, though by no means the most general, method of locating his 
 Shepherd's huts. That method consists in pitching the huts, not on the 
 margin of a river, but three miles inland : for, as sheep do not require to 
 be watered daily and as they can easily travel six miles per day, they 
 can be taken, say on Monday from the huts to the river and back ; and 
 on the Tuesday from the huts three miles inland and home again. In 
 accordance with this plan, it must be observed that, instead of three, six 
 miles of country can be utilized. Of course the same principle is 
 applicable to the other side of the river. Eut what I wish ta point out 
 is, the remarkable advantage of an ana-branch running generally parallel, 
 say 12 miles, to the main stream. A second row of Shepherd's huts can 
 then be located, as above, three miles from the branch, and a third row 
 on the other side of it. This gives an increase of 12 miles of available 
 grass country, or two thirds of the whole, or a half of the whole extent 
 of 24 miles, in case the opposite bank of the main river is open to use. 
 In short, a good ana-branch is, in all its practical aspects, equivalent to 
 the addition of a second river or that of artificial wells and dams — always 
 great consumers of capital. 
 
EXPEDITION TO MOUNT STTTABT. 85 
 
 country would have proved of infinite service to us in a 
 variety of intricate and perplexing positions. 
 
 The river along our route was now closely confined by 
 hiUs ; the water-holes were deep and long, and the dry parts 
 of the channel were luxuriant with palms and other kindred 
 plants. The grass on these places, though rank, was preferable 
 to that of the banks, where it was quite burnt up. We 
 encamped after a ride of twelve miles. 
 
 Next morning, after a short excursion on the hills, I 
 rejoined my party en route. The river continued to present 
 similar physical aspects to those of the previous day. Its 
 rugged and bold embankments will show to advantage during 
 the floods. All of my party agreed that the current bore 
 every indication of having a constant flow ; and at a place 
 where we bathed, it was so strong as to carry us oflF our feet. 
 It is, however, generally fordable over the dykes which dam 
 the water holes. 
 
 November 27. — Ginger, an old black horse, was found 
 missing. At length he was found floating down the stream. 
 Alas, poor Ginger ! he must have been bom under an unlucky 
 star : during the voyage he was so kicked and cuffed by his 
 friends that his features were stamped with melancholy ; and 
 his general air betokened a wretchedness that foreshadowed 
 a premature and violent end. 
 
 After travelling about eight miles, our path was blocked up 
 by a basaltic hill, which I named Mount Kay. We fetched 
 a compass round it, and, before striking the Gregory again, 
 we crossed a small creek coming from the north-west, which I 
 called the Stawell, On presently arriving at a tolerably 
 comfortable spot for encamping, a halt was called. The 
 country in this district closely resembles the gold bearing 
 
 d2 
 
36 EXPEDITION TO MOUNT STUAET. 
 
 districts of the south, and the geological structure is also 
 quartzose and slatey. We had made but little way during 
 this journey, as the country was hilly and broken up — only 
 occasionally varied by grassy plots, sometimes interspersed 
 with Kangaroo grass* — the first we had observed. We also 
 noticed reeds growing in Stawell Creek, and, near our camp, 
 patches of Triodia or Spinifex,| together with bloodwood and 
 marjoram in abundance. On one of the neighbouring ranges, 
 we saw two small natural caves resembling cairns. 
 
 November 2. — Having yesterday observed nearly opposite 
 Mount Kay the embouchure of a large river on the right 
 bank of the Gregory, I resolved to go over and examine it. 
 After a short delay, occasioned by marking trees and shoeing 
 a horse, I started in company with Fisherman, leaving the 
 rest of the party to continue the journey. On fording the 
 river, we attempted to make a " short cut " across a range of 
 hills. But the ground was so rough that after wasting a good 
 deal of time, we returned to the Gregory, which we followed 
 down till we came to the confluence in question. I named 
 this first-class tributary the O'Shannassey,]: a range of hills 
 that were conspicuous on the right bank, I called Smith's 
 ranges. At the angle by which we approached the junction, 
 the ground is low and so densely wooded that we had to dis- 
 
 * Kangaroo grass, though of itself possessing excellent properties, is 
 80 certain an index of humid soil — which is, on the whole, unfavourable 
 to sheep — that I cannot agree with many squatte^-s in their high estimate 
 of country on which it is found. As an illustration : this gras>< flourishes 
 along the sea-board of New South Wales and Queensland, and it is well 
 known that sheep do not fatten so well in these localities as on com- 
 paratively arid inland plains. 
 
 t Triodia or Spinifex, or porcupine grass, is the worst variety of gra^s 
 to be found in Australia. It is so harsh that sheep will not eat it, except 
 when it has just sprung up, after having been burnt. It sometimes over- 
 runs good country to such extent as to render the latter almost useless. 
 
 X Then Prime Minister of Victoria. 
 
EXPEDITION TO MOUNT STUAET. 37 
 
 mount and lead our horses. The trees were chiefly of the fig 
 variety, and inhabited by flying foxes which hung suspended 
 from the branches or kept flitting to and fro. The stream 
 itself, though not equal in point of size, had, like the Gregory, 
 an obviously constant flow ; possibly it drains a larger area of 
 country, and certainly its flood-marks were higher than those 
 of the Gregory. The bottom of the channel was incrusted 
 with a thick, whitish, mineral sediment. Having marked the 
 most conspicuous trees, we hastened to rejoin our companions. 
 But, just beyond our old encampment, we were benighted, and 
 had to pass the night in a miserable, barren gully, fatigued 
 and supperless. Nor was my repose improved by the sting of 
 some reptile, by which I was suddenly awoke. 
 
 At 5.40. a.m. we were again under weigh, hunger accelerat- 
 ing our movements. We noticed on the right bank the mouths 
 of two creeks — named respectively the Verdon and Balfour. 
 We now passed through a rocky gorge, but we found an easy 
 path along the margin of the channel which the floods had 
 smoothed. A ride of six miles at length brought us to Camp 
 16, which Mr. Campbell had pitched a quarter of a mile up a 
 tributary of the Gregory, named Haine's Creek. The horses 
 were comparatively well foddered on the grassy plots of the 
 channel. The adjoining country consisted of bare and abrupt 
 ranges of basalt. 
 
 Next morning we followed up the Gregory, presently arrived 
 at what I may style the source of the Lower Gregory. For, 
 although we here found rapids with about six feet fall of water 
 creating a stream powerful enough to turn a large mill wheel, 
 the channel immediately beyond was all but dry. This 
 surprised and, so far as my journey was concerned, disappointed 
 me. It was now made apparent that the river, whose con- 
 
38 EXPEDITION TO MOUNT STUAET. 
 
 tinuous and voluminous flow we had been thus far admiring, 
 did not, after all, owe its origin to rains in the interior, but to 
 copious local springs. This is, of course, the best practical 
 guarantee of the permanence of the current from this point ; 
 but, what I propose to style, the Ujyper Gregory partakes of 
 the character of Australian rivers in general, viz., water- 
 courses dependent on the rainy season and therefore inconstant 
 and subject to the extremes of flood and drought. I may add 
 that the state of the banks gave no evidence of rain having 
 fallen and that we carefully tested the continuity of the 
 two channels by crossing the dry bed of Upper Gregory and 
 returning to the rapids by the other bank.* 
 
 We observed a column of basaltic rock about forty feet 
 high, which I called Campbell's Tower. Although the country 
 was parched, kangaroos were numerous. While making these 
 examinations. Captain Allison occupied himself shoeing the 
 horses in an extempore shed constructed of pahn leaves ; 
 and he performed his work with his usual ingenuity. 
 
 * That such precautions in arriving at a geographical decision are 
 necessary, is proved by our own subsequent mistake of Beame's Brook 
 effluent for the continuation of the Gregory. (See page 59.) 
 
CHAPTER VII. 
 ©ipcDitlon totoarlijJ i^ount Sbtrx&vt (continued). 
 
 Ascent of the Upper Gregory — Reconnoitring for "Water — Barkley 
 Table-land — Shooting a Kangaroo — Return to Camp— Renewed 
 Search for Water — Return from a Bootless Errand — Herbert Creek 
 — Return to Camp. 
 
 Tuesday, December 3. — Continuing to follow tlie Upper 
 Gregory, we rode sometimes on this, sometimes on that, side 
 of the channel, in a westerly and south-westerly direction. 
 There was now no difficulty in crossing and recrossing, as the 
 channel was dry, excepting a few isolated water-holes. 
 Basaltic ridges fenced our path : they were sparsely dotted 
 with stunted bloodwood, and over-run with triodia grass. In the 
 channel itself, the grass was coarse, and the herbage poor ; 
 and in exchange for the rich flora of the lower Gregory, we 
 had nothing but the comparatively uninteresting gum tree. 
 But what was a real, practical drawback, the absence of water 
 impressed itself upon us more and more forcibly at every step. 
 At length, however, we stumbled upon a small supply, 
 evidently the product of a recent thunderstorm, and accord- 
 ingly we encamped. 
 
 Next day, our prospects in regard to water were so cheer- 
 less, that I considered it prudent to call a halt ; for, as the 
 sequel will shew, it was my rigorous custom to make some 
 reservoir, so to speak, the base of my operations, in order to 
 avoid the responsibility of launching my party on ground 
 which afforded no definite guarantee of the existence of 
 water. Accordingly Fisherman and I advanced ahead to 
 
40 
 
 EXPEDITION TO MOUNT STUART. 
 
 reconnoitre, but after a long and fruitless search, were com- 
 pelled to return. I was additionally disappointed on learning 
 that Jemmy had just returned from a similar bootless errand. 
 He had, however, seen smoke to the southward, arising 
 doubtless from natives' fires, which are a fair indication of 
 the proximity of water. 
 
 Mr. Campbell and Jemmy took up the search on the 
 following day, and after traversing, to a point six miles south- 
 tvest, barren country intersected by dry gullies, they came to 
 a very wide river-bed in which they found a native well, but 
 even this was quite dry. Thence descending the channel, 
 they emerged on the Gregory at a point four miles from the 
 camp. 
 
 These and other repeated failures began to cause me great 
 anxiety, as our further progress was checked by the sudden 
 and unexpected deficiency in question. I therefore resolved 
 upon a more extended expedition, with the view of setting the 
 matter at rest. Provided with a led-horse to carry provisions 
 and water-bags, Jemmy and I ascended that tributary of the 
 Gregory, named by me the Fullarton. We travelled eight 
 long miles over arid rocky ground, growing nothing but 
 bloodwood and triodia, "We here found ourselves on a fine 
 table-land (probably 1,000 feet, above the sea-level), which 
 contains the main watershed of this district.* I named this 
 Barkley Table Land.f We now coursed gaily along, charmed 
 with the change from the rugged ground of the previous day 
 
 * This is, in fact, a continuation of the great chain or Cordillera 
 which encircles all but the west coast line of the continent, from King 
 Gei^rge's Sound, easterly, northerly, and westerly, to Port Essington. 
 
 t After Sir Henry Barkley, K.G.B., late Governor of Victoria, who 
 was ever ready to forwarrl, by his active zeal and personal influence, the 
 work of exploration, bo warmly entered into by the munificent 
 Victorians. 
 
EXPEDITION TO MOUNT STUAET. 41 
 
 to a finely undulating, park-like plateau. We were no longer 
 required to expend our s)rmpatliies on our faithful horses, 
 exposed as their feet had lately been to being cut and hacked 
 by the stones, and torn in the legs by the harsh clinging 
 stems of the triodia. The soil was richly clothed with the 
 best grasses, which, though parched, proved a dainty treat to 
 our half -famished horses. Trees were rare, and, to the south- 
 west, none at all were visible. 
 
 Having ridden eight miles southerly, we espied a kangaroo. 
 Jemmy forthwith dismounted, and, rifle in hand, proceeded to 
 stalk him. The animal presently succumbed to the deadly 
 weapon, and great was Jemmy's delight as he contemplated 
 this palpable proof of his prowess. We skinned the body and 
 hung it on a tree, covering it with boughs for protection. A 
 ride of a mile brought us to a fresh water course, furnished 
 with water-holes ; so that we considered ourselves altogether 
 in luck. This Creek I named the Pratt.* 
 
 The following day, after a ride of nine and a half hours, 
 we rejoined our companions at the camp on the Gregory. The 
 journey was interrupted by only three halts, for the purpose, 
 namely, of dining, marking a tree at the junction of the 
 Fullarton with the Gregory, and of packing the carcass of the 
 Kangaroo, before mentioned. We were rewarded for the 
 protection which the branches afforded our booty by finding 
 it in a state of excellent preservation : otherwise, the eagle, 
 hawk, and wild dog would have left us nought but the 
 skeleton.! 
 
 Monday, December 8th. — We were glad to remove to the 
 
 * After Sir Thomas Pratt, K.C.B., Commander of the Yictoria Forces. 
 
 t As regards the animals of prey which frequent Australia, the wild 
 
 dog, or "dingo," is perhaps the most destructive ; and he is particularly 
 
42 EXPEDITION TO MOUNT STUAET. 
 
 water-hole at Pratt Creek ; but as the supply of water was 
 inadequate to our wants, Jemmy and I devoted the following 
 day to a fresh exploration. Surmounting the right bank of 
 the Creek, we steered east north-east, a little to the right of 
 it. At three miles, we observed smoke rising in the distance. 
 As this showed the existence of a native encampment, we 
 became hopeful of finding water. But, after a steady ride, 
 till dusk, over rugged ground, we could not guess whether or 
 not we had passed the desired place. Our only halts were for 
 the purpose of stalking a kangaroo, in which we were 
 unsuccessful, and of procuring a honeycomb from a hollow 
 tree.* 
 
 Next morning, we retraced our steps, with jaded and thirsty 
 horses, ourselves being in an equally bad state. We continued 
 to search every nook and cranny in vain. But, towards 
 evening, we were cheered by observing recent traces of the 
 
 obnoxious to the squatter ; for besides sheep, he is daring enough to 
 attack calves and foals. The means employed to extirpate him are 
 chiefly that of poison. Parcels of fat or carrion, impregnated with 
 strychnine, are hung on low bushes or accessible trees. Where these 
 means are largely employed, the decrease of the dog is attended with a 
 corresponding increase of game. In the region west of Melbourne, for 
 example, kangaroos and opossums have increased to the extent of 
 becoming a pest ; as many of the former as 800 having been shot in one 
 day. The carrion crow abounds in the south, the hawk in the north. 
 The former, of course, haunt sheep stations, for the sake of preying upon 
 chickens, &c., and they have been known to snatch food out of children's 
 hands. They will follow a horseman riding over a plain, in order to 
 pick up the grasshopper and other insects which are startled by his 
 passage over the ground. 
 
 * "Wild honey is common in the bush : the pasturage is abundant 
 and the bees find a convenient domicile in hollow trees. The English 
 domestic bee is rapidly spreading over Australia and has already, in many 
 places, practically displaced the indigenous one ; for the simple reason, 
 that the former yields a honey harvest twenty times in excess of that of 
 the latter. The blacks are marvellously cunning in tracing the flight of 
 the bee to his hive. Sometimes they adopt the expedient of catching 
 one, and loading him with as much down as he can carry, so as to follow 
 his homeward track with the greater ease. 
 
EXPEDITION TO MOITNT STUABT. 43 
 
 emu — a bird seldom seen far from water. Presently these and 
 other birds made their appearance, but still no water I The 
 birds seemed only to stultify us by their bitter mocking : " We 
 know where it is, but you foolish fellows cannot find it." 
 Matters were not mended by the break-down of Jemmy's 
 horse, which had to be left behind in Barrow's Creek. 
 Fortunately, however, we had a pack-horse in reserve. At 
 length, we stumbled on a recently dried-up hole, where, by 
 dint of assiduous probing with a stick, and grubbing with our 
 hands, we found just sufficient water to quench our own thirst, 
 and to supply the horses with two quarts each. 
 
 Having hobbled our two exhausted horses, we went on foot 
 down Barrow's Creek to its junction with the Pratt. Two 
 miles up the latter, we were rewarded by the discovery of a 
 hole containing a few gallons of water. Approaching to drink, 
 I was startled by the appearance of a large snake that was 
 luxuriating in this rare and precious bath. This was the first 
 snake, of any kind, seen in these parts. We then returned 
 and picked up the horses, with which we arrived at the fresh 
 water-hole at 3 o'clock a.m. Throughout the fatigues and 
 hardships of this journey of twenty-two hours, Jemmy neither 
 grumbled, nor betrayed the slightest sign of weariness. I 
 may here state once for all, that, during the whole journey. 
 Jemmy and Fisherman never flinched from the performance of 
 their duties ; they proved, on all occasions, not only skilful 
 and energetic, but willing and cheerful assistants. 
 
 On Wednesday, after a welcome rest of a few hours, we 
 started for the camp by way of Pratt Creek. On our route we 
 discovered two water-holes, one of them being sufficiently 
 large to fall back upon in case supplies should fail us in the 
 S.W. 
 
44 EXPEDITION TO MOUNT STUART. 
 
 On my arrival, I was relieved to find tliat the blacks had 
 not discovered tlie camp, as it was inadequately defended. 1 
 was also glad to learn that Mr. Campbell bad recovered from 
 a severe illness from wbicb be bad been suffering, and wbicb 
 bad occasioned a delay while on our way hither from the 
 Gregory. 
 
 Next morning, I started with Fisherman on an expedition 
 to the S.W. over Barkley Table-land. We first followed up 
 Pratt Creek in order to fill our water-bags at a hole which 
 Fisherman knew. A ride of ten miles over a level plateau 
 brought us to the highest part of the Table-land — ^but no 
 water was in sight. Thence we rode across a treeless plain 
 fourteen miles in extent, and at sun-down reached a dry 
 southerly water-course crowded with acacias. Having supped, 
 we traced the new water-course — which I named the Herbert 
 — till we came to a patch of grass, two miles distant. The 
 grass was green, apparently not from the fertilizing effects of 
 water, but from having had the old grass previously burned. 
 
 In the course of the day we had travelled thirty miles, 
 chiefly over fine country, doubtless destined to rank as a first- 
 class sheep run. Next day, our small stock of water forbade 
 our risking a long journey down the Herbert. We con- 
 sequently limited it to six miles, and then retraced the ground 
 of the previous day till we airrived at the north-east side of 
 the above-mentioned plain. It was now dark, and, being 
 drowsy, I gave the lead to Fisherman. As his bushmanship 
 was rarely at fault, I was surprised to observe, towards mid- 
 night, that he had lost the track. I at once gave my horse 
 the reins, but instead of conducting us to camp, he made 
 straight for a creek, where we shortly found a water-hole. 
 
 Observing on the edge of the water natives' nets for snaring 
 
EXPEDITION TO MOUNT STUAET. 45 
 
 emu and bustards, and also fires lit on the bank, we tbougbt 
 it prudent to pitch our camp on a plain about two miles 
 distant. This creek is a tributary of the O'Shannassey, which 
 doubtless, in common with Pratt Creek, is a feeder of the 
 Gregory. These, along with Herbert Creek, are all formed on 
 Barkley Table-land : the Herbert is, however, as I have said, 
 the Southern drain, and though it was, at the period of our 
 visit, dry at its source, it is quite consistent with the 
 idiosyncrasies of AustraHan water-courses for it to be a large 
 and extensive river, further south. 
 
 Next morning, we were in our saddles at early dawn ; and 
 ere long came upon a fresh river-bed, adorned with cabbage 
 palms, tea trees, and such plants as love streams ; but the 
 channel was then dry. Having lost our reckoning, we steered 
 in a straight line, which fortunately proved the direct road to 
 camp. As the water-hole there had dried up in our absence, 
 our companions had moved three miles higher up Pratt 
 Creek, where we gladly rejoined them.* 
 
 * Captain Allison having made several observations of the snn, I was 
 glad to find that the latitude I had obtained by dead reckoning coincided 
 with his result, viz., 19° 24'. 
 
CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 0a:pct)(t{ott tofoart)!5 J^ount .^tuart (continued). 
 
 Character of Barkley Table-land — Darvall Creek — Examination of the 
 Herbert for Water — Mary Lake — Removal of the Camp thither — 
 Christmas Day— Rencontre with an Elderly Pair of Blacks — Desert 
 Country again — Hopelessly Arid and Sterile — Resolution to return. 
 
 Camp 18, December 19. — ^To day we shifted tte camp, 
 seven miles south to Clifton Creek, where we were constrained 
 to pass the night, by the uncertainty of procuring water 
 further on. In the afternoon a thunder storm suddenly burst 
 upon us, and we were presently charmed with the rare sight 
 of a running stream. 
 
 Next morning, we skirted Barkley Table-land on the southern 
 side. The soil of this part, like that to the south-west, is 
 excessively rich and beautifully grassed. It enjoys the 
 advantage of being near the O'Shannassey, the waters of which 
 I subsequently ascertained to be permanent. At the lowest 
 estimate, therefore, six miles of the back country are available 
 for grazing purposes.* And it is highly probable that 
 permanent water-holes exist further inland, which my cursory 
 exploration may have easily overlooked. If not, the construc- 
 tion of wells and dams would enable the Squatter to embrace 
 a considerable area of this excellent grass. 
 
 We next alighted on the water-course named Darvall Creek ; 
 and thence proceeding a similar distance, we arrived at what I 
 have called the Wilkie, where the discovery of a pool tempted 
 
 * See note, page 34. 
 
EXPEDITION TO MOUNT STUART. 4i 
 
 US to encamp. We separated next day, into two water- 
 exploring parties — Darvall Creek being the appointed rendez- 
 vous. Eesult, nil. Darvall Creek appeared to be tbe only 
 water-resource within our present circuit. Its banks slope 
 gently from the plains, and instead of rugged stones and 
 triodia, consist of rich soil and succulent grasses. We soon 
 moved three miles higher up to a water-hole of superior 
 character. And our supper was enriched by the addition of a 
 bustard to our usual fare.* 
 
 On Friday (December 20th), I made a fresh attempt to 
 penetrate south-west, taking with me an extra supply of water 
 in double canvas bags. Steering straight for the old goal at 
 the head of the Herbert, Jemmy, Fisherman, and I advanced 
 as pioneers. On the second morning, on taking stock of the 
 water, I thought it advisable to send Fisherman back, in order 
 to lessen the consumption of our greatest and rarest treasure, j- 
 With Jemmy I descended the Herbert six miles, that being 
 the point where Pring Creek joins that river, and where I had 
 marked a tree on the occasion of my previous journey thither. 
 The gift of prevision on that occasion would have directed 
 us to a water-hole three quarters of a mile beyond, and saved 
 us the loss of much valuable time. We now procured a few 
 gallons of water from it. Having ridden upwards of five 
 miles down a completely dry bed, we at length stumbled 
 on some water in the hollow of a rock. As a number of 
 small birds appeared to have appropriated it, I felt like a 
 robber in depriving them of their treasure ; but let us hope 
 
 * Captain Allison fixed the latitude of the late encampment at 
 19° 37'. 
 
 t For a detailed description of this method of reconnoitring barren 
 countries^ I refer the reader to that excellent and thoroughly practical 
 handbook, the Art of Travel. Page 144, &c. 
 
48 EXPEDITION TO MOUNT STUABT. 
 
 that my sacrilegious act was sanctioned by the great law of 
 necessity. Two long miles further on brought us to the 
 embouchure of another creek, named the Harvey, where we 
 saw several flocks of pigeons, but no water. Half a mile 
 lower down, we observed a singular deep, dry pit, on the left 
 bank of the Herbert ; but whether or not it was artificial, I 
 was unable to determine. Three miles further brought us to 
 a magnificent water hole, about a quarter of a mile in length, 
 which I named Mary Lake. The abundance of mussel shells, 
 and the hacked condition of the trees, combined with the 
 scarcity of dry firewood, clearly showed it to be a favourite 
 resort for the blacks. The discovery of Mary Lake was so 
 decisive of our future course, that I at once made for Darvall 
 Camp ; and, on the following day, a ride of nine hours and 
 a half, or twenty-one geographical miles, brought all of 
 us to our new destination. 
 
 Mary Lake. Christmas Day, — Here we spent yesterday 
 and to-day, tempted chiefly by the excellence of the grass, 
 and the pleasantness of the place for a festive sojourn. We 
 had, besides, a good deal to do in the shape of smith's work 
 and general repairs. Mr. Allison and I set to work to shoe 
 Mr. Campbell's foot-sore horse, which, as amateurs, we 
 accomplished, certainly with great difficulty, but fortunately 
 to our own satisfaction. A grand difficulty in the operation 
 was fitting the shoes accurately and punching holes of an 
 unusual description, for as we laboured under the want of 
 suitable nails, we had to use screw nails in their stead. 
 
 We relieved the tedium of this work with duck shooting, 
 and ended each day with a hearty and jovial meal. 
 
 In the course of a ride down the Herbert, with Jemmy, 
 I found the channel level and broad, and so overgrown with 
 
EXPEDITION TO MOUNT STUART. 49 
 
 grass as to present the appearance of a sward. The grass 
 was greener than that on the banks, which rose, on both 
 sides, to a considerable height. At four and a-half miles 
 we reached a fine water hole, named Frances Lake, where we 
 surprised a pair of blacks — the one a grey-haired old man, 
 the other, also old, was the chosen partner of his joys and 
 sorrows, or, less floridly, his "gin." She seemed as anxious 
 for the safety of four poodles, one of which she hugged to 
 her bosom as fondly as any of her " civilised " sisters of the 
 beau monde are in the habit of doing with their correspond- 
 ing pets. On our approach, however, she abandoned her 
 canine treasures and rushed into the water, but afterwards, 
 following the example of her inferior half, she took refuge 
 in a tree. Jemmy tried in vain to hold an intelligible con- 
 versation with them. 
 
 Thursday, D&cember 26. — We moved our camp further 
 down the river. After proceeding eight miles. Captain Allison 
 fixed our latitude at 20*^ 6'. At this place, the character of 
 the country presented a remarkable contrast to that which we 
 had just left. The river here multiplied into several channels, 
 which wandered free and unconfined over dead level plains. 
 The large amount of drift indicated that the country was 
 occasionally flooded. The entire district appeared like a 
 dreary wilderness : the grass was completely burnt up ; the 
 salt bush and trees, rare as they were, had lost their vitality ; 
 and the waterless waste seemed altogether to forbid our further 
 progress. 
 
 On the return of Jemmy — whom I had sent ahead on 
 purpose — with what I understood to be an unfavorable report 
 of water resources, we retreated four miles to a water-hole. 
 
50 EXPEDITION TOWAEDS MOUNT STUABT. 
 
 named Kenellan.* Here we again encountered our aged friend 
 of Francis Lake, in company witli some of his tribe. They, 
 in common with the natives of the north coast, appeared to 
 have practised the rite of circumcision ; their word for water 
 seemed to be " otto ;" they were vastly pleased with the gift 
 of a tin pot and two empty bottles. 
 
 Being loath, on all avoidable occasions, to encamp in the 
 neighbourhood of blacks, I was not sorry to learn from Jemmy, 
 on making more minute inquiries, that I had misunderstood 
 his report of the absence of water ahead. We accordingly 
 hastened to a water-hole now mentioned by him as being about 
 six miles lower down. "We were agreeably disappointed on 
 finding a country once more smiling with verdure, abounding 
 in water, and altogether presenting a strikingly favorable 
 contrast to the desert above described ; so completely had the 
 presence of water changed the aspect of a country of identi- 
 cally the same physical features as those of the neighbour- 
 ing desert. This observation wiU not unfrequently be found 
 to be the key to the discrepancies of various Australian 
 explorers. For example, Sturt, in his account of the Darling 
 river, gave, from the simple fact of the period of his visit 
 being a dry season, a gloomy picture of a locahty which has 
 subsequently proved to be one of the finest sheep districts in 
 N. S. Wales. 
 
 But our hopes were destined to be of short duration. The 
 region in which we now were was as Uttle a sample of the 
 country beyond, as it was of that immediately in our rear ; 
 for, six miles further on, we were fain to content ourselves 
 with just as much water as slaked the thirst of the horses. 
 
 * Gallic for " last water.** 
 
EXPEDITION TOWARDS MOUNT STUART. 51 
 
 Beyond this, no water had come down the Herbert, and a 
 twenty miles ride over arid plains, which were simply a repeti- 
 tion of the wilderness before alluded to, once more seemed to 
 warn us to go " thus far and no farther." 
 
 Leaving the main portion of my party behind as usual in 
 such cases, I advanced ahead, with Jemmy and Fisherman, 
 along the channel, the banks of which were here more wooded 
 than higher up. But a ride of three miles was sufficient to 
 convince me of the thoroughness of the drought, and con- 
 sequently of the utter hopelessness of going further on this 
 track. The position was lat. 20^ 17' long. 138^ 20', the lati- 
 tude being precisely the same as that reached by Gregory in 
 his expedition of 1856, from the Victoria river. Then, at a 
 point six hundred and fifty miles further west (long. 127*^ 30'), 
 he had to retreat from a similar cause. This lugubrious region 
 was appropriately presided over by immense quantities of 
 hooded owls. On rejoining my companions we moved to a 
 small pool four miles higher up the Herbert and encamped. 
 
 It was with the deepest regret that I was compelled to admit 
 the impracticability of continuing this journey to its destina- 
 tion. Central Mount Stuart- Personally I was vexed at the 
 necessity for leaving a fixed and defined plan incomplete ; but, 
 in yielding to it, I was actuated by a combination of motives : 
 — ^Firstly, I had ere this surrendered the small hope I always 
 entertained of finding traces of Burke on this route ; secondly, 
 my engagement with Captain Norman to be at the depot 
 within ninety days, forty three of which were already exhausted, 
 did not allow of my waiting here for the approach of the wet 
 season, when, on the one hand, the continuance of the journey 
 would have doubtless been practicable, but, on the other, my 
 return at aU near the appointed time would then probably 
 
 E 2 . 
 
52 EXPEDITION TOWARDS MOUNT STUAET. 
 
 have been protracted by floods ; thirdly, the more extended 
 and more hopeful expedition which I had planned rendered it 
 important that my horses should arrive at the depot in such a 
 condition that a short rest would suffice to recruit them. 
 
CHAPTER IX. 
 lExpctttton tofoariJ0 il^ount <Stuart (continued). 
 
 Beginning of our Return— Hostile Blacks— Imprudence of Risking a 
 Collision — Celebration of New Year's Day— The O'Shannassey — 
 Peculiarities of Australian Rivers — The Mouth of the O'Shannassey 
 — Descent of the Gregory by Eight Bank— Remarkable Hydrograph- 
 ical Mistake — The River Nicholson — Arrival at the Depot. 
 
 Saturday, December 28th. — Mr. Campbell and Jemmy went 
 ahead with the pack-horses, while Fisherman and I remained 
 with Captain Allison, who wished to take an observation for 
 the purpose of confirming the previous one : both results 
 precisely coincided. 
 
 We soon overtook our companions, as their progress had 
 been retarded by a jaded horse. A ride of eight miles 
 brought us again to the luxuriant " oasis in the desert," 
 previously described. 
 
 I was constrained to give up my intention of recruiting 
 here on account of the risk of coming into hostile collision 
 with the natives who, now for the first time, appeared in 
 threatening numbers. No sooner had we pitched our camp 
 than two natives presented themselves. Having given them 
 two bottles, they left us, but presently returned with a 
 number of their companions who remained till dark. At 
 dawn, they reappeared in force, amounting to above a 
 hundred. Although they did not molest us, their manner of 
 surrounding us was decidedly uncomfortable. In order to 
 frighten them, we kept discharging our rifles, at hollow trees, 
 but this failed to impress them with a notion of our prowess. 
 
54 EXPEDITION TOWARDS MOUNT STUART. 
 
 Mr. Campbell, ever ready for any bold adventure and confident 
 of being a match, for any number, marched into tbe midst of 
 them and tried to make them understand that, however 
 friendlily disposed we felt towards them, we bad no objection 
 to a little less of their company. The only intelligible 
 pantomimic reply was that they wished to have as little of 
 ours. Mr. Campbell returned disappointed from his 
 unsuccessful embassy ; and, particularly as Jemmy had told 
 him of certain marks of disrespect having been paid him 
 behind his back, he counselled revenge. But I could not see 
 the necessity for inaugurating the first exploration of this 
 district by a bloody fight, more especially as the enormous 
 odds of more than a hundred heavily armed savages against 
 five of us, naturally suggested the trite maxim, "Discretion 
 is the better part of valour." Supposing, however, they had 
 shown fight, it is highly probable tliat, as our active prepara- 
 tions to move our camp sufficed to frighten them, a rapid 
 advance on horseback would bave effectually put them to 
 flight. The men were, for the most part, more athletic and 
 finer looking than the aborigines usually are — some of them 
 being even above six feet high. In connection with this 
 subject, it may be interesting to the ethnologist to note that 
 there is no great difference in the physical characteristics of 
 the tribe of the northern and southern latitudes. The super- 
 ficial distinction, as far as I have observed any material 
 difference, arises from superiority of feeding, or vice versa* 
 
 * A few remarks incidental to this subject, I shall here briefly give : — 
 The aborigines are not, according to the popular notions in England, akin 
 to the African race ; but the conclusion that they are of Papuan origin is 
 now generally accepted. With the exception of the copper colour, the 
 unusual breadth of nose, and strong mouth, the average native does not 
 prominently differ from dark complexioned Caucasians. Even their hair 
 is smooth and luxuriant, and, though often curly, by no means woolly. 
 
EXPEDITION TOWARDS MOUNT STUART. 55 
 
 We broke our journey to Mary Lake by a bait at Kenellan, 
 for the purpose of dining on sucb ducks as we sbould be 
 successful in shooting. Wbile so employed, we beard cooeying 
 in tbe distance. Tbe cooey was answered by some blacks in 
 our neighbourhood, the reply being equivalent to " all right." 
 It proved to come from a party of blacks who presently made 
 their appearance. They were laden with the spoils of the 
 chase ; and so thirsty were they that, without taking further 
 
 Their intelligence is good, and, ceteris paribus, I should say on a par 
 with that of the white man. For example, native lads, -who have the 
 ordinary schooling, not unfrequently even excel the Anglo-Australian 
 in scholarship. 
 
 Blacks reared with the colonists are noted for their courage ; they are 
 good hoxers and fearless riders ; when not too fond of grog, and entirely 
 away from their tribe, they are trustworthy and excellent servants. In 
 regard to native, untutored, instincts, they stand, as bushmen, high in 
 the scale of savages. As trackers, they are certainly not anywhere 
 excelled. One, for example, tracked a horse seventy miles ; and another 
 succeeded in tracking my saddle horse twenty-five miles, over difficult 
 country, part of which was a horse run ; and, on another occasion, when 
 I was unable to abridge the distance between two stations to a shorter 
 distance than 25 miles, a native further curtailed it to 17— and that, too, 
 on a dark and stormy night : the same track is now used as the postal 
 route. 
 
 It cannot, however, be maintained that the natives of Australia are 
 exceptions to the ordinary savage, in their notions of what we are 
 pleased to associate with the practical objects of life. They have no 
 idea of the value of money or property : on one occasion, for instance, 
 when I had spent some days in seeking a hundred lost sheep, a native 
 assistant observed with the utmost nonchalance, " What for you too 
 much look for sheep .►• plenty more." And another on being asked by a 
 gentleman, who had brought him to England and given him a good 
 education, "what he would like to be," replied that, if obliged to do 
 anything, he would prefer turning a hurdy-gyrdy. On the same 
 " eccentric " principle, they are not distinguished for forethought. A 
 black shepherd, on receiving his weekly rations, will call his friends 
 together and enjoy a glorious feast, the penalty for which is, that he 
 must submit till next ration day on chance game or honey procured by 
 himself or friends. In short, they are happy-go-lucky sort of fellows, 
 good natured and without malice, full of life and the art of enjoying it, 
 after their own fashion. 
 
 A feast is generally connected with a dance (commencing at the 
 fashionable hour, 11 p.m.), in which, however, the fair sex do not take 
 part, though they enjoy the dignified privilege of presiding over the 
 
56 EXPEDITION TOWARDS MOUNT STUART. 
 
 than a cursory notice of us, they plunged into the water. 
 The journey between Mary Lake and Darvall Creek being a 
 long one for wearied horses, I went ahead with Jemmy to 
 seek for an appropriate half-way resting place ; but I could 
 find no water. On rejoining my companions, I was surprised 
 to find our camp open to any sudden attack : Mr. Campbell 
 and Captain Allison both being asleep, and Fisherman absent 
 on a ramble. I mention this, not with the view of making 
 any reflection on my companions, but as an illustration of an 
 important principle in bush-tactics, viz., always to be prepared 
 for an attack. The blacks soon learn whether there is any 
 looseness in the watches of the camp of the traveller, or in 
 the patrols of the frontier runs, and, when discovered, a 
 collision — in every way an undesirable thing — is next to a 
 
 toilette of their lords, which consists in dressing the hair, painting, &c. 
 They also fulfil the functions of musicians, beating time with a pair of 
 sticks ; as also of stokers, in feeding the blazing fires. The dance is 
 called a " corroboree." 
 
 As to their fighting, they seem to be as fond of a warfare of words as 
 of weapons ; and the results generally correspond to those of an Irish 
 scrimmage — viz., plenty of bruises but no casualties of any moment. In 
 fighting-spectacles, only two are accustomed to enter the lists. The 
 weapons consist of spears, throwing-sticks, boomerangs, and clubs. 
 They throw the former with remarkable precision and force, and so 
 skilful are they in guarding with the shield, that the projectiles are 
 seldom effective. When these are exhausted, they ccme to close quarters, 
 soon after which the battle is probably interrupted. Although the 
 native, armed with a spear, is a dangerous enemy at a distance of 15 
 yards, he is, when acquainted with the effects of firearms, easily kept in 
 check, even by a pistol. 
 
 Fighting is more practised when there is abundance of food ; other- 
 wise, they are employed in procuring supplies, consisting of kangaroos, 
 wallabies, opossums, and birds. At the Bunya range, a hundred miles 
 inland from Wide bay — the cone of the Bunya-bunya (Auracaria 
 Bidwellia), is so choice and abundant a dainty, that during the harvest 
 of that delicious fruit, the blacks of that locality have plenty of leisure 
 to fight. It is a curious fact, that old men are supposed to exercise a 
 blighting influence over young ones, and they avail themselves of this 
 to appropriate the young wives, courteously handing over the old hags 
 to the strapping youngsters. 
 
EXPEDITION TOWARDS MOUNT STUART. 57 
 
 certainty ; while, on the other hand, vigilance is commonly 
 rewarded with security. 
 
 At Darvall Creek, we spent New Year's Day, which was, 
 indeed, a day of rest for man and beast — especially the latter. 
 Our dinner was signalized by the sumptuous addition to our 
 ordinary rations of a few pots of jam and a bottle of rum. 
 Clifton Creek was our next encampment, whence, after shoeing 
 a horse with stubs from cast shoes, I hastened towards that 
 point of the O'Shannassey which I had on my way hither 
 found dry ! To my delight, it bore marks of having been 
 recently flooded, and it was therefore practicable to follow it 
 down. Next day, we accordingly left Barkley Table-land and 
 spent the night eight miles down the hitherto unexplored 
 valley of the O'Shannassey. It presented the appearance of 
 being at all times well watered, being, like the Gregory, fed by 
 springs, and not entirely dependent on local rains. 
 
 Though the ridges immediately adjoining the river are 
 rugged and steep, the stream is not inaccessible from the 
 Table-land. As the grass was here unsuitable for the horses, 
 we continued our journey, as far as the junction of " Harris 
 Creek " with the O'Shannassey. At this point, the channel 
 contracts into so narrow a gorge that it was impassable for 
 the horses. Jemmy and I accordingly advanced with 
 pick-axes to widen the breach. While so engaged, Mr. 
 Campbell reported that the horses had voluntarily gone into 
 the river, and that one of them had sunk. Fisherman and 
 Jemmy dived and succeeded in recovering the saddle and gear 
 from the body of the ill-starred brute. Somewhat lower 
 down the channel was almost dry, while again a few miles 
 further it was splendidly watered. This alternation of water 
 and drought is a peculiarity of many Australian rivers, a 
 
58 EXPEDITION TOWARDS MOUNT STUART. 
 
 variability wliicli is doubtless to be accounted for by tbe 
 existence of subterranean channels, the proof being that 
 copious supplies of water are found by digging in the dry 
 places. The deeper parts of the river-bed form the water- 
 holes, and these are protected, during the wet season, against 
 being washed level with the more elevated, or dry parts of the 
 bed, by rocky bars. During the wet season, the current is of 
 course continuous, and in the case of considerable rivers, like 
 the O'Shannassey, the drift entangled in the trees on the 
 banks is found as high as thirty to forty feet. The drift, 
 consisting of the loose rubbish floated down the river, is often 
 the only indication to the traveller of the course. 
 
 The flora is of course subject to corresponding changes : 
 where there is surface water, we have pandanus, cabbage 
 palm, tea-trees, Leichhardt and fig trees ; whereas a dry bed 
 is marked only by the Eucalyptus. After tracing the 
 O'Shannassey eight miles from the second camp pitched on 
 that river, we came to the confluence of a considerable stream 
 from the south. I named it the Thornton. Like the 
 O'Shannassey, it was well watered and confined by precipitous 
 ranges. A tree which had fallen across a narrow part of the 
 O'Shannassey enabled me to go over dry-shod from the left 
 to the right bank for the purpose of marking a conspicuous 
 tree at the junction. We resolved to encamp at a point four 
 miles lower down, our access to which was impeded by the 
 boggy character of the ground and the difficulty of pene- 
 trating the masses of tall tea-trees which here crowded the 
 margin of the stream. 
 
 Two days of similar travelling brought us to our old friend 
 the Gregory, on the opposite, namely the left, bank of which 
 lay our outward track. Here I ascended the ridges for the 
 
EXPEDITION TOWARDS MOUNT STUART. 59 
 
 purpose of viewing the country. Near the mouth of the 
 O'Shannassey, the reaches became extensive, and the banks 
 less abrupt, but the ranges were strewn with so many rough 
 stones, that I was compelled to return to the easier track made 
 by the advancing pack-horses. 
 
 Fine basaltic columns, sometimes faced with bottle* and 
 other varieties of trees, sometimes interrupted by open fiats, 
 with conical hills in the distance, gave this portion of the 
 country a picturesque aspect. 
 
 It would appear that the kangaroo prefers barren ridges to 
 rich plains ; for they frequented in large numbers the former 
 kind of country both on the O'Shannassey and the upper 
 Gregory. 
 
 For the sake of following fresh ground we kept to the 
 right, instead of crossing to the left bank of the Gregory, 
 (by which we ascended it). At the beginning of the second 
 day's journey, we came to the channel of a branch of the 
 Gregory, which I named the Ligar. It was 150 yards wide, 
 but the channel was dry. I observed, however, that the flood- 
 marks were high. Lower down, where the Gregory became 
 contracted, within two hills, the flood-marks were so high as 
 thirty feet. Thus far, the country continued to suffer from 
 drought, but on leaving the ridgy country, we found the 
 herbage of the plains quite luxuriant. I was now on the 
 look out for the spot where I had forded the Gregory on the 
 outward journey, with the view of striking across country for 
 the head of Beame's Brook, which I designed to trace to its 
 junction. But though I rigorously followed the river bank, I 
 
 * The bottle-irQe is so called on account of the shape of its trunk ; 
 though its claim to the name might also rest on the fact that it contains 
 small supplies of water which is got at by piercing the bark. 
 
60 EXPEDITION TOWARDS MOUNT STUART, 
 
 was astonislied at being unable to discover the ford. At 
 length, an observation of the sun showed that we were con- 
 siderably to the north of the ford, though our senses emphati- 
 cally declared that we had been all along accompanying the 
 Gregory. The conclusion therefore was, that we were actually 
 on the right bank of Beame's Brook, which, in fact, forked off 
 from the Gregory a few miles higher up. This effluent from 
 the Gregory forms, at the same time, a tributary of the Albert, 
 which it joins at Beame's Brook junction, formerly mentioned. 
 The Gregory continues its course from the fork above noted, 
 till it joins the Nicholson ; which, combined with the waters 
 of the Gregory, runs parallel to the Albert, for a distance of 
 about thirty miles before entering the gulf. Their mouths are 
 nearly twelve miles apart. 
 
 Frequent and heavy thunder storms latterly retarded our 
 progress, and the swarms of musquitoes thereby brought 
 into life rendered our rest anything but comfortable. The 
 path we now followed led, like the neighbouring districts 
 formerly described, over sparsely timbered and richly grassed 
 plains : in short, as fine a country as any I have seen in 
 Australia for pastoral purposes. Instead of making straight for 
 the junction of Beame's Brook with the Albert, we deviated 
 to the right, and finally reached the left bank of the Alber. 
 at that point to which Lieutenant Woods and I had at first 
 extended our survey exploration. Here, above the junction, 
 the Albert is, on the whole, so insignificant a stream that its 
 importance in the latter part of its course must, in the first 
 place, be ascribed to its great feeder Beame's Brook, and, in 
 the second place, to the influence of the tides. As an 
 estuary, it ranks much higher than the 'Nicholson, and it is 
 navigable for an average-sized passenger steamer as far as the 
 
EXPEDITION TOWARDS MOUNT STUAET. 61 
 
 junction. For the first time since leaving the Herbert we 
 observed several natives concealed in the trees. Ostrich-like, 
 they imagined they could see without being seen, but their 
 acuteness was over matched by Jemmy and Jacky. 
 
 We had great difficulty in crossing the boggy channel 
 which characterises the brook above the confluence. We 
 there unintentionally diverged about three quarters of a mile 
 to the left, which luckily gave me the opportunity of 
 inspecting the Nicholson. It had a broad sandy channel, 
 here, however, so obstructed by islets covered with tall 
 tea-trees, that it was impossible to get a fair ghmpse of the 
 farther bank. A little farther on our correct route for the 
 depot, we noticed recent tracks of some exploring party, 
 which we guessed to be that of Mr. W^^^®^- 
 
 Next day, our approach was descried by the guards of 
 the depot, and the boom of a gun was our distant welcome. 
 After the usual exchange of greetings, we learned that 
 Walker had been there, and that, having found Burke's tracks 
 on the Flinders, seventy miles distant, he had restocked him- 
 self with provisions, and gone to follow up the tracks. 
 
€xT^t)iitmn ^btxhnis ta ^dl^amm. 
 
CHAPTER X. 
 lEipetiitlon Obedanti to iWdtiourne. 
 
 •Official Obstacles to the Journey — Meagre Supply of Provisions — 
 Departure from the Albert — Recalcitrant Horses— Character of the 
 Country— The River Leichhardt— Richness of its Borders— Neu- 
 mayer Valley — Approach to the Flinders. 
 I remained at the depot twelve days before I had the 
 opportunity of communicating -with Captain Norman, who, as 
 my official superior, had the power of deciding whether or not 
 I should make the overland journey from Carpentaria to 
 Melbourne. On at length being favored with an interview, I 
 was surprised to find him opposed to my scheme, for the 
 ostensibly good reason, that Mr. Walker had gone to follow 
 Burke's tracks, and that provisions were short. I ventured to 
 combat his arguments by pointing out the extreme unlikehood 
 of Mr. Walker being able to follow up tracks which ere his 
 arrival would doubtless be obliterated ;* that, although it 
 would be arrogant of me to presume that my party would 
 prove more efficient trackers, I was at least so sanguine as to 
 believe that following the route fonnerly mentioned as being 
 in Mr. Gregory's and my own opinion the best, would, if it did 
 not lead to the discovery of Burke's tracks, at least conduce to 
 the fulfilment of an important, though secondary object of the 
 expedition — viz., the exploration of country. Then as to 
 provisions, I should be content to receive such a supply as he 
 'Could spare ;| because I was hopeful of being able to 
 
 * "Which, in fact, proved to be the case. 
 
 f In allusion, of course, to expedition (not ship's) provisions of which 
 I had a more liberal supply at Brisbane, and on which I presumed I had 
 .a special claim. 
 
 P 
 
66 EXPEDITION OVERLAND TO MELBOUENE. 
 
 replenish my stock at a sheep-station of my own, then in the^ 
 course of formation midway between the Albert and Cooper's 
 Creek ; and, finally, as the last remark implies, I was already 
 acquainted with the latter portion of the journey. Wliile, in 
 conformity with his sense of duty, he warned me of the 
 dangers likely to accrue from insufficient provisions as well as 
 from blacks which Mr. Walker, with twice the defensive* 
 equipment, had found hostile, Captain Norman at length 
 yielded a tardy, and somewhat equivocal assent. 
 
 I now set to work with a will to prepare for the new and 
 more extended expedition ; but, in doing so, I had three 
 unexpected obstacles to encounter. These in their order : — 
 First of all, I had been congratulating myself' that^ Mr, 
 Walker had left his journal and the chart of his route -in 
 Captain Norman's hands, as I should thereby be able, firstly, 
 to fix my actual point of departure — namely, the point at 
 which Burke's tracks had been seen ; secondly, to avoid Mr.. 
 Walker's already explored route, w^hich until latterly had 
 IproYed not to he that of the missing explorers; and thirdly, 
 inasmuch as more than the first half of my route- must 
 necessarily run parallel to his, I should be guided • by his 
 notes as to the locales of water, in case that terrible- 
 desideratum should compel me to cross to his track. Those 
 documents would therefore have been of infinite value to me ; 
 but the reader will learn with surprise that I was permitted to 
 have but one cursory inspection of them, on the alleged plea 
 that Mr. Walker had desired the documents to bo presented 
 to the Eoyal Society of Melbourne, icithout their being 'previoudu 
 shewn to any one. As the condition, printed in italics, has 
 since been emphatically disowned by Mr. Walker, I have only 
 to remark that it was extremely unfortunate Captain Norman 
 
EXPEDITION OVEELAND TO MELBOURNE. 67 
 
 SO seriously misunderstood instructions as unwittingly not 
 only to interpose obstacles in the way of that open and liberal 
 spirit which ought to actuate brothers co-operating in one 
 cause, but also which might have led to the sacrifice of the 
 success, and even the lives, of a party of enterprising 
 individuals. My second drawback was, the sudden disinclina- 
 nation of Mr. Bourne to enter upon the journey, as second in 
 command. Indisposed as I was to appropriate unwilling 
 services, I found myself in an awkward dilemma ; for, both, 
 Mr. Campbell and Captain Allison, being fagged by their late 
 toils, were anxious to go home in the Victoria ; and, on the 
 other hand, I had framed all my calculations on the assumption 
 that Mr. Bourne, who had been released from the first expedi- 
 tion on his own declared preference for the second one, would 
 now be ready and willing to accompany me. I had therefore 
 no other resource than to enforce an involuntary submission, 
 which was further confirmed by Captain Nomian's authority. 
 The question of provisions, however, was one of the most 
 vital moment. The expedition stores, which Captain Norman 
 had in keeping, were, on the whole, so abundant that I trusted 
 the supply, now at our disposal, would be at least commen- 
 surate with the requirements of so hazardous a journey. I 
 was therefore chagrined on learning that our rations were of 
 the most meagre description, comprising the bare necessaries 
 of life, and certainly inferior to prison fare.* A glance at the 
 note will show that we were denied tea, sugar, and rum ! The 
 picture shows a party of six men, launched upon a journey of 
 several months, over an unexplored continent, and forced to 
 
 * Viz.— 40 lbs. peas, 96 lbs. salt-beef, 40 lbs. rice, 268 lbs. damaged beef 
 jerked, 27 lbs. bacon, 650 lbs. flour, 110 lbs. broken biscuits, 18 lbs. 
 tobacco. 
 
 F 2 
 
68 EXPEDITION OVERLAND TO MELBOURNE. 
 
 leave behind them in a Steam Sloop, within a fortnight's sail 
 of a commercial port, every desirable and useful article of diet 
 beyond what was barely sufficient to maintain life. The tone 
 of the coloring will be improved by the consideration that 
 the stores in question were supplied expressly for that 
 party, and that they were entirely distinct from those of 
 H.M.O.S. Victoria. 
 
 Albert River, Fehruanj 8, 1862. — To day we* took the first 
 step towards our long journey. Having transported twenty- 
 one horses and our baggage to the further bank, we finally 
 abandoned the Fireflij. The crew of the boat which had 
 brought me from the Victoria gave us three hearty cheers, and 
 we stood alone, with a continent between us and our destina- 
 tion. A multitude of minor preparations detained us here till 
 the 10th, when we were not sorry to get under weigh, on 
 account of the swarms of musquitoes that the adjoining 
 mangrove and mud flats fostered. At length, after distri- 
 buting a few articles among a groop of wondering blacks, we 
 bade adieu to the Albert. 
 
 Traversing one of the finely grassed plains common to this 
 legion, we came upon Walker's tracks, and at five miles 
 reached a good water-hole, full of slightly brackish, though 
 drinkable water, and encamped. The tracks of Walker's party 
 had been rendered so indistinct by recent rain that they were 
 perceptible to none but my black boys ; I therefore concluded 
 that we had but small, if any, chance of following him up to 
 that point on the Flinders, where Burke's tracks had originally 
 been seen. The horses were so fresh after their three weeks' 
 rest, that they kept expressing, in the forcible language of 
 
 * My party included Mr. Bourne, Gleeson, a quondam sailor, and 
 three native assistants — viz., Jemmy, Fisherman, and Jacky. 
 
EXPEDITION OVERLAND TO MELBOUENE. 69 
 
 kicking and plunging, their unqualified disapproval of work. 
 Mr. Bourne and Gleeson made themselves useful on the 
 following forenoon in repairing the damages thus occasioned.* 
 
 Coursing along the plains. We soon arrived at a salt water 
 creek, destined one of these days to form one side of an 
 enclosure for stock. When we had crossed to the other side, 
 •we lost no time in encamping, in anticipation of a threatening 
 thunder shower which would have injured our unprotected 
 stores. 
 
 This morning (February 12), we were early in motion, with 
 the intention of doing a good day's work. Walker's track 
 was only occasionally perceptible ; but near our encampment, 
 above sixteen miles distant, a dead horse decided our dubious 
 guesses. In the course of our ride, we continued to traverse 
 richly grassed, thinly timbered plains, alternating with flats ; 
 the area of the fomier being one third in excess of that of the 
 latter. The flats were also well grassed, and were wooded 
 with flooded box, and exoecaria.f The plains were more 
 elevated than previously. 
 
 Next morning our departure was delayed by the work of 
 shoeing. A ride of eight miles over plains, luxuriant with 
 verdure, and lightly wooded, brought us to the river Leich- 
 hardt. j' It was here one hundred yards wide, the water was 
 salt, and the banks were high. As the slippery rocks, together 
 with the precipitous character of the further bank, rendered 
 fording out of the question, we ascended the left bank till we 
 arrived at a water-hole. Here I found myself reduced to one 
 
 * Latitude 170° 53'. 
 
 t Exoecaria. A good sized bush, a habitat of low, saline, alluvial 
 ground. It exudes a milky poisonous juice. 
 
 X Captain Norman had' surveyed this river, and found it quite a3 
 navigable as the Albert. 
 
70 EXPEDITION OVERLAND TO MELBOURNE. 
 
 good-going watcli : tliis was particularly unfortunate, as I was 
 accustomed to measure distance by the time consumed in 
 travelling at one uniform rate. 
 
 Februarij 14. — So mucli rain liad fallen, tliat Walker's 
 tracks were now obliterated. Finer coimtry for slieep than 
 these rich plains could hardly be found ; they were quite 
 luxuriant with verdure, and adorned with the conspicuous blue 
 flower of the convolvulus. It seemed to me inconsistent 
 with the economy of human life, that so much excellent 
 material for the development of industry should, in the 
 presence of first-rate resources for water carriage, be al- 
 lowed to go to waste. 
 
 A ride of eight miles over the usual kind of plains brought 
 us to a ford, where we crossed and encamped beside a clump 
 of beautiful fig trees.* The scenery was quite picturesque, 
 and it would doubtless be vastly improved by the heavy floods 
 of the wet season — the river here being two hundred yards 
 wide, with a fall of thirty feet. At the period of our crossing, 
 however, it was lucky that the water simply trickled over the 
 basaltic bar which dams the fine water-hole above. While 
 preparing to bathe, we heard a suspicious plunge, like that of 
 a retreating crocodile ; we accordingly retired to shallow water. 
 Harmless as this animal is, in Australia, we were not anxious 
 for his company in his native element. 
 
 The right bank of the Leichhardt is inferior, as regards the 
 average quality of its grass, to the left, and it is more thickly 
 wooded. The trees were not, however, so dense as to interfere 
 
 * Lat. 18" 10'. Mc. Kinlay reached this point a few raontlis later. 
 He had come from Adelaide and proceeded hence direct to Port Denison. 
 He found equally fine country on the upper course of the Leichhardt ; 
 and mine were the first explorers' marks discovered by him, since leaving 
 Cooper's Creek. 
 
EXPEDITION OVERLAND TO MELBOURNE. 71 
 
 <with a liorseman riding at a hand-gallop. In addition to tlie 
 iusual trees, I noticed gum, box, bloodwood, sevem, fig, cotton, 
 white cedar, and coral.* 
 
 Directing our course to the Flinders, we exchanged the 
 iigreeable margin of the Leichhardt and that of a tributary- 
 stream which crossed our route, for six miles of barren and 
 profitless country. We then descended into Neumayer Valley, 
 and encamped on the brook which drains it from the north- 
 east. Although the water-holes were shallow, the drift 
 marks were high. We passed the Sunday in this pleasant 
 valley, which, decidedly moist as it is, appeared to me more 
 suitable for cattle than sheep. The flats were well grassed, 
 and wooded with exoecaria. We saw a small flock of emu, 
 but failed to shoot any. Consideration for my horses de- 
 Ljided me against the adoption of Leichhardt's plan of running 
 them down. 
 
 On leaving the valley on Monday, we passed over finely 
 undulating ground, free from timber, and ornamented with 
 «mall conical hills. This appeared to me an enviable site 
 for a cattle or lambing station. The back-ground was 
 occupied by loftier hills, clothed, like all those of the eastern 
 section of Australia, with trees. Our course (E. and by S., half 
 S.), was accurately followed by Fisheiman for two days 
 without the aid of a compass. The country traversed was 
 seemingly badly watered, although our wants were fully 
 supplied by recent rains. As a precaution, I would therefore 
 advise the pioneer squatter, travelling in the dry season, to 
 keep nearer the coast-line when he need doubtless be under 
 no apprehension. The ridgy country is uncommonly poor, 
 
 * Exythuna. One of the few deciduous trees of Australia : its flower, 
 ■which blooms before the leaves appear, are like red coral. 
 
72 EXPEDITION OVERLAND TO MELBOURNE. 
 
 overcome witli triodia, and wooded with the usual trees of 
 this region — viz., the tea, Severn, and the bloodwood. On. 
 a small tract of rich country, I observed gidya and bauhinia. 
 The former, common in the inland parts of N. S. Wales and 
 the more settled parts of Queensland, I have never seen so 
 close to the seaboard. The evening of our second days' 
 journey from Neumayer Valley found us thirty-two miles in 
 advance, and surveying the Flinders from the edge of . the- 
 Table-land. The camp was pitched in a ravine, access to 
 which was exceedingly difficult and intricate. This ravine 
 Dossessed all the features of a good natural reservoir. 
 
CHAPTER XI. 
 lEijp^titton ©bcrlant) to i^clBourne (continued). 
 
 The Flinders — Our Youthful Houyhnhym — Character of the Flinder& 
 — Fort Bowen — Mount Little — Esculent Berries — Blacks — Opos- 
 sums and Rats — Fording Creeks — Scenery — The Country in a 
 Utilitarian Sense— Sunday, as a Day of Rest — The O'Connell 
 — Hunt after a Bullock — Rencontre with Blacks — Bramston 
 Ranges — Illness of some of My Party — "Walker's Table- 
 Mountain. 
 
 February 19. — Our descent to tlie Flinders lay over rich 
 plains, intersected by short spurs from the Table-land, cul- 
 minating in conical hills, which, pretty in themselves and 
 topped with sandstone blocks, gave &, characteristic aspect 
 to this locality. I named them Donor's Hills.* A ride of 
 five miles further brought us to the river. Larger, though 
 apparenthj less, than the Nicholson or the Leichhardt, it was 
 confined by precipitous banks a considerable distance apart, 
 and the elevated spaces between the five channels into which 
 it was divided, were marked by rows of tall flooded-box-trees. 
 Although wearing the traces of a recent flood all but the 
 deepest channel were dry. The low ground near the banks 
 was well wooded and grevv' abundance of pig-weed and saline 
 herbage. Thence stretched, from both sides of the river, 
 fertile plains, beautifully grassed and free from trees, forming 
 altogether as fine sheep country as I have seen. The surface 
 
 * In acknowledgment of the liberality of an anonymous Melbourne 
 gentleman who initiated the exploration fund by a donation of £1000. 
 
74 EXPEDITION OVERLAND TO MELBOURNE. 
 
 was liere and there broken by back-cbannels, from tbe main 
 river, and these were correspondingly marked by rows of 
 trees. 
 
 Baffled in our efforts to find Burke's tracks, we crossed to 
 the right bank, imagining that to be his most probable route. 
 This choice was unfortunate, because, from what I have 
 since been led to suppose, he had followed the left bank. 
 Having traced the river thirteen miles southwards, we en- 
 camped. 
 
 February 20. — Here one of the mares foaled. The character 
 of the pasturage along my entire route cannot be more pal- 
 pably shown, than by the fact that mother and son arrived in 
 Melbourne in excellent condition, although the former had 
 been used as a pack-horse. Even before he was three days 
 old, the youthful " Houyhnhym " had travelled forty-seven 
 miles. The country traversed was a continuation of the rich 
 plains formerly described, with this exception, that the verdure 
 of the grass had been rendered more luxuriant by recent rains. 
 Some of the grass resembled barley and sorghum more closely 
 than any other indigenous grass that has come under my notice. 
 The horses were so fond of the latter that we could with 
 •difficulty drive them off it. My black assistants, who occupied 
 their leisure in hunting, brought in five opossums, which were 
 to us a savory morsel, completely throwing our dried meat into 
 the shade. Emu were also abundant. Although we were 
 -generally on horseback in the day time, we did not find the 
 heat oppressive. Unfortunately however, I cannot give the 
 variations of temperature, because my two thermometers had 
 been broken early in the first journey. The loss of that 
 instrument was serious in another point of view — namely, as 
 la make-shift metron for heights — it being applicable to that 
 
EXPEDITION OVEKLAND TO MELBOUENE. 75 
 
 purpose by giving the comparative temperatures at wliicli 
 water boils. 
 
 The distance to the next encampment was sixteen miles, 
 where we were about four miles north-west by west from the 
 first hill on our track since leaving Donor's hills. I called it 
 Fort Bowen.* The points at which we struck the Flinders 
 were wooded with gidya, instead of box. We were inspirited 
 t>y the hope of the continuance of the showery weather which 
 had favored this day's journey. 
 
 The following morning found us at Fort Bowen, with 
 abundance of springs at both the northern and southern base. 
 On the former mounds were formed, from an aqueous precipi- 
 tate, composed of soda, lime, and earthy matter — a pheno- 
 menon not unknown in South Australia. The compound, as I 
 once personally experienced, acts as an efficient substitute for 
 sulphate of zinc, &c,, in opthalmic diseases. The mounds in 
 question were environed by reeds and tea-trees. The addition 
 ♦of weeping willows, and other trees, would enhance the beauty 
 of the spot, when chosen as a site for a station. On ascending 
 the hill, which is about two hundred feet high, we saw, 
 through the dense mist that enveloped the summit, two small 
 ■conical hills, situated near the right bank of the river and 
 therefore in our course : the one I named Mount Brown, the 
 -other Mount Little. Thinly wooded plains occupied the inter- 
 vening space ; and the river on the left bank appeared to be 
 thickly wooded. The chief geological characteristic of Fort 
 Bowen appeared to be pudding-stone. Descending towards our 
 ^encampment about seven miles distant, I left Mr. Bourne and 
 -Jacky to overtake me at their leisure, with as much game as 
 they could bag. They very soon rejoined me, laden with 
 * After Sir George Bowen, K.G.C., Governor of Queensland. 
 
76 EXPEDITION OVERLAND TO MELBOURNE. 
 
 cockatoos whieli were so abundant that tlie trees, on wHch 
 they were found, seemed one mass of white. It was a pity- 
 that our supply of ammunition was insufficient for the purpose 
 of kilHng them in large quantities, as in a dried state they 
 would have served as an excellent reserve stock of provisions. 
 
 Next day, from the weather being showery and the wind 
 cold and northerly, the horses had dispersed so much that the 
 best part of the day was consumed in collecting them. We 
 therefore thought it best to remain here another night. 
 During his work, Jacky killed a couple of snakes — the firsts 
 but one, we had seen. He got a harmless bite for his pains,, 
 but satiated his revenge by discussing the reptiles at supper. 
 
 On our arrival at the bottom of Mount Little, we found 
 shallow water-holes, and also springs similar to those above 
 described. From the summit — to which we had ascended in 
 order to build a cairn — we surveyed plains of the richeat 
 description, fresh and green from recent rains. 
 
 The river here has a deep current, and its permanence was 
 guaranteed by the presence of tea-trees, that fringed the banks. 
 The black boys got drenched during the night by a sudden 
 and violent shower. They were so amused by the adventure, 
 that I feared any words of mine on the importance of having 
 their tents erected would have been out of place.* 
 
 The eighteen miles of ground gone over on the following 
 day presented a new feature, the plains were intersected by 
 sandy ridges, and the country, as a whole, appeared to be 
 more retentive of moisture than that further north. The 
 river banks were wooded with box, gidya, and exoecaria ; the 
 
 * As an old traveller I may be permitted to point out the imprudence 
 of needlessly getting wet, more especially where one's wardrobe is 
 necessarily scanty. Two of my boys suffered severely from their incau- 
 tious exposui'e. 
 
EXPEDITION OVERLAND TO MELBOURNE. 77 
 
 ridges, witli bauhinia and brushwood ; the herbage consisted 
 of grass, pigweed, saltbash, and roley-poley.* 
 
 March 1st. — In the course of to-day's journey of twenty 
 miles, our progress was obstructed at various points, by what 
 we imagined to be creeks, but what ultimately proved to be 
 back-channels, or offshoots from the river. We had therefore 
 spent much pains for nothing, as we should have enjoyed 
 plain sailing by pursuing a more inland track. Early in the 
 journey we came upon abundance of bushes like the English 
 box, bearing extremely agreeable berries. We cut off sprays, 
 -and ate the berries as we rode along. Those bushes, by and 
 bye, gave place to the cotton vine, the unripe pods of which 
 were milky and quite palatable. 
 
 Next day, being Sunday, we had made up our minds to 
 -devote to rest ; but the presence of blacks — the first seen 
 -since leaving the Albert — rendered it imprudent to remain. 
 We accordingly removed to a spot five miles distant during 
 a torrent of rain, which continued to keep us weather- 
 bound for two days. But the blacks evinced so little curiosity 
 with reference to ourselves or our movements, that they did 
 not trouble themselves to follow us. 
 
 Near our next encampment, nineteen miles higher up the 
 river, my black boys caught five opossums, which, inclusive 
 of a number of rats, afforded them a sumptuous supper. 
 These rats seemed to me of the Norway breed, and they are 
 as distinguished for their fecundity in the bush as elsewhere. 
 In scouring the plains the tramp of the horses would fre- 
 quently demolish their burrows, thus sending them abroad 
 
 * Eoley-poley is an annual salsolaceous plant, of the form of a ball, 
 several feet high, easily broken from its stem, and rolled along by the 
 •winds ; hence its name. It is a habitat of rich plains, and withers in 
 the diy season. 
 
78 EXPEDITION OVERLAND TO MELBOUENE. 
 
 in such a hurry-scurry tliat we easily killed tliem with our 
 whips. When roasted, they looked really so tempting that^ 
 barring their odious tails, they almost vanquished the " civi- 
 lised " prejudice I had entertained against them. 
 
 In our next journey, we were brought to a stand-still by a 
 creek that crossed our path. Having despatched my party to 
 trace it downwards, I swam across for the purpose of taking 
 the altitude of the sun from a plain on the farther bank.* 
 On rejoining my companions, I found them brought to a 
 dead halt at the angle formed by the outlet of the creek from 
 the river, and where it was necessary to encamp. The 
 position was a rather hazardous one, as a sudden rise of the 
 flood, so peculiar to Australian rivers, would have swept us 
 away. Fortunately, however, it subsided so much during the 
 night, that, notwithstanding the bogginess of the approach 
 and the consequent objection, on the part of the horses, 
 to enter the water, we managed to cross. To our intense 
 disgust, a ride of four and a-half miles presented us with 
 a repetition of the same task — with the additional dis- 
 advantage that this creek was not fordable. Being, 
 therefore, unable to wade over, as before, with the- 
 saddles and packs on our heads, we had to resort to the 
 following expedient for transporting those ai-ticles in a dry 
 state. Tying them respectively to the middle of a rope 
 (the length of which was at least twice the breadth of the 
 stream), and then passsing one end of the rope over the 
 fork of a tree on the further bank, they were easily and 
 safely drawn over. The only special precaution was that 
 of pulling the near end of the rope so tight as to prevent 
 the load from touching the water ; and the only piece of 
 * Lat. 20° 23'. 
 
EXPEDITION OVERLAND TO MELBOURNE. 7^ 
 
 apparatus we required for rendering tlie macliine perfect 
 was that of a pulley, so as to allow tlie rope to travel easily, 
 and without being chafed or cut.* 
 
 March 7. — Admirably fitted as these sparsely wooded 
 plains appeared to me, in a utilitarian point of view, they 
 occasionally also present features of interest to the lover of 
 nature. The extensiveness of a landscape, where the eye is 
 provided with a variety of resting points, in the shape of 
 groops of umbrageous trees or undulating lines of hills — 
 possesses of itself no mean chamis. This morning, for 
 example, the foreground is occupied by the ever-green box and 
 the excoecaria, with the other usual varieties of trees, 
 festooned with lovely creepers ; beyond these, the horses ar& 
 feeding peacefully on a rich grassy plain, stretching to the 
 distant horizon, which is marked by blue mountains, with all 
 their fine gradations of tint. It was of no practical conse- 
 quence that the advancing sun dissolved that rigid back-ground 
 into thin air, and betrayed the fact, that it had rested its 
 pretentions on a, so called, mirage. For, had I not enjoyed the 
 fiction" in blissful ignorance of its unreality ? 
 
 The much more elevated character of the embankment 
 satisfied me that our fording troubles were, for the present, at 
 an end. This region was, as I have said, remarkably well 
 adapted for pastoral purposes. Of course, however, the intelli- 
 gent settler will plant seeds at the beginning of the wet season, 
 so as to have plants with deep roots. This, together with the 
 erection of tanks, and wells in the back country, would enable 
 him to graze at least twice the quantity of stock that the land 
 
 * The importance of bush travellers providing themselves on all 
 occasions with a rope will be rendered apparent by this single example 
 of its utiUty. 
 
80 EXPEDITION OVERLAND TO MELBOUENE. ^ 
 
 is, otlierwise, competent to carry. In tlie course of tliis day's , 
 
 journey of sixteen miles, I obtained the altitude of the sun ;* •; 
 
 and met with, polygonumf on a shallow water-course. ; 
 
 We continued to traverse the usual fine description of | 
 
 country, with more of that undulating character to which i 
 
 the term '•' downs " is applied by squatters, and which is | 
 preferred by them to all others. I named this Hervey 
 
 Downs. Cantering with Jemmy to the river bank in order ] 
 
 to obtain a suitable place for obtaining the sun's altitude, ;|: i 
 
 I had an extensive view of the surrounding country ; to the j 
 
 westward, about ten miles distant, I observed a long belt of i 
 
 trees which probably marks the course of some stream parallel j 
 
 to the Flinders. On rejoining our companions we hastened to ] 
 
 complete a journey of sixteen miles, in joyful anticipation of a j 
 rest on the following day. We always looked forward to our 
 
 Sunday's rest ; and, I may say, that I learnt during this ■ 
 
 exploration thoroughly to appreciate that admirable institu- i 
 
 tion ; and its celebration, let us hope, was rendered none the ' 
 
 less perfect by the addition of a few luxuries to our ordinary ; 
 
 rations of damper, jerked meat and pigweed, viz., that of i 
 
 pea-soup for luncheon and rice and jam for dinner. Simple j 
 
 as these dainties may appear to the reader, we enjoyed them j 
 
 with childish zest. j 
 
 Having noticed the recent tracks of a cow or small bullock, j 
 
 Mr. Bourne, Fisherman, and Jacky set out on Monday morning ] 
 
 in quest of it. Their re-appearance on Tuesday dissolved our | 
 
 * Lat. 20° 37' 30 sec. | 
 
 t A wiry, scrubby bush, the same as that on the Lower Murray and 1 
 
 the Darling, where it is considered of high value, as it not only stands j 
 
 the long drought of summer, but is even then sufficiently succulent to i 
 
 be palatable to cattle. It is generally an index of ground subject to ] 
 
 floods. ; 
 1 Lat. 28<» 48'. 
 
EXPEDITION OVERLAND TO MELBOURNE. 81 
 
 bright hopes of a luscious beefsteak. It is probable, that the 
 object of our aspirations had beer frightened by the blacks 
 from some run near Port Denison,* as his homeward tracks 
 pointed south-east. 
 
 March 12. — Since the ascent of the Flinders was now 
 leading us to the eastward of our course, we crossed the river 
 at a point marked by a fall of several feet over flags of sand- 
 stone. Having ridden thence twenty miles to the eastward, 
 we encamped on a tributary stream, named by me the 
 O'Connell. The country consisting of well grassed, and 
 thinly wooded downs, corresponded to that of the right side 
 of the Flinders. 
 
 Next day, having again espied the bullock's spoor, we fol- 
 lowed it up as far as the Flinders. Here, in despair of 
 success, we abandoned the search with longing regrets ; and 
 encamped a few miles higher up. Here and there low ridges, 
 wooded with acacia, confine the river. I named a consider- 
 able range near our encampment (but on the right bank) 
 Bramston range. We descried a few blacks on one of the 
 flats ; pigeons, cockatoos, quail, and hawks were abundant. 
 
 On the following day we observed more blacks down on the 
 low flats. On being approached, all ran away, except some 
 gins and children who concealed themselves in a water-hole. 
 
 * Port Denison, 380 miles distant. The case recorded in the text is 
 not uncommon. Cattle and horses have been known frequently to return 
 to their original homes five hundred miles distant. A horse of my own 
 twice returned that distance. "When cattle brought to a new station are 
 not well looked after, they are apt to stray in the direction of their native 
 home. The following plan for attaching them to a new place has been 
 found to be successful : — For several weeks, the cattle are herded and 
 brought to the yard every night, where they are tended by watchmen 
 till morning. Or, they are allowed to feed unconstrained all night, and 
 driven, in the morning, to the encampment where they are kept all day. 
 Cattle, thus trained, rush to the encampment immediately on hearing the 
 sharp crack of the stockman's whip. 
 
 G 
 
82 EXPEDITION OVEELAND TO MELBOUENE. 
 
 ! 
 
 They soon, however, emerged and assembled on the bank, on \ 
 
 which stood their coolamans,* full of rats. The old gins were ' 
 
 profuse in their offers of the wives of the men who had taken \ 
 
 flight. We declined with thanks ; though Jacky seemed ■ 
 
 already transfixed by Cupid's darts, and was ready to surrender ■ ; 
 
 his heart and hand to one of the " pretty little ratcatchers' ; 
 
 daughters." Jemmy, however, regarded them, and wedded i 
 
 life to boot, with cynical indifference. I presume he had seen : 
 
 domestic bliss under unusual and disadvantageous circum- I 
 
 stances. The young damsels had fine eyes, pearly teeth, and i 
 
 an agreeable expression of countenance ; and one about ten ; 
 
 years of age was adorned with a large bone which perforated j 
 
 the cartilage of the nose.f The children looked particularly \ 
 
 lively and intelligent. Jemmy understood a few words of , 
 
 their dialect, but insufiicient for any intelligible conversation. • 
 
 Their word for water, " cammo," I caught while they were | 
 
 in the act of filling our cans. We encamped a short distance ■ 
 
 up a tributary of the Flinders, named by me Sloane creek, j 
 
 We found in the water a quantity of mussels, which we j 
 
 relished extremely. : 
 
 Half way to our next encampment, we crossed a tributary ' 
 
 stream named Walker's Creek, which drained finely grassed \ 
 
 downs. Our camp was environed with myall, ;{: and an inferior - 
 
 kind of sandalwood. The latter, which is also found near J 
 
 I 
 
 Port Curtis, has been introduced into the market, though, I \ 
 
 believe, with indifferent success. This I know, that it makes ; 
 
 i 
 * The nob of a tree cut off and hollowed, generally used as a cala- 
 bash. * \ 
 t This possibly originates in some ceremony, as many blacks have the '] 
 cartilage perforated. It is often put to practical use by serving as a ! 
 temporary rack for the tobacco pipe. j 
 J Acacia pendula ; but this appeared to be a different variety from : 
 that of the south. 
 
EXPEDITION OVEELAND TO MELBOURNE. 83 
 
 excellent fuel, its resin emitting a clear candle-like flame and 
 its fragrant smoke acting as a specific against the intrusions of 
 tlie villainous musquito. Myall is a never-failing index of 
 good sheep country : in a parched season, it forms a good 
 substitute for grass, as both sheep and cattle are fond of it. 
 
 Hence I made an excursion across to Bramston's ranges, as 
 I wished to inspect three table-hills at their eastern end. 
 After fording the river, we alighted on indistinct tracks of 
 some expedition party supposed by me to be those made by 
 Walker en route north-west from the Nogoa to Albert river 
 depot. A ride of a mile brought us to. the base of the range, 
 covered in some places with black earth growing luxuriant 
 grass, while in others perforated basalt lay above a sandstone 
 structure. From the summit I saw, about fifteen miles up the 
 left bank of the Flinders, an isolated table mountain, which 
 I named after my brother explorer, Mr. Walker. During our 
 descent, we collected a stock of marjoram, to serve as a 
 
 March 17. — At ten miles, we were compelled to halt on 
 account of Gleeson's indisposition. He, as well as Jemmy and 
 Fisherman, continued to suffer from debility for several weeks. 
 The only apparent causes were the miasma of the season and 
 poverty of diet. I thought of prescribing tonics for their 
 malady, but as the effect of these would have been to sharpen 
 their appetites for food that had only a shadowy existence, 
 it seemed to me nothing short of mockery to apply 
 them. Stimulants would doubtless have been beneficial, 
 but this would have been more absurd than the pre- 
 scription of sumptuous diet and recherche wines to invalid 
 
 * "We marked trees on both banks of the river at a point where a 
 tributary joins it on the right bank. 
 
 G 2 
 
84 EXPEDITION OVERLAND TO MELBOURNE. 
 
 paupers, for, in fact, we had none, except a pint of rum, 
 which it was important to preserve for more urgent emer- 
 gencies. We encamped two nights in the neighbourhood of 
 Walker's Table mountain, the one night on a flat wooded 
 with myall, the other on the left bank of the river. The 
 country is not only excellent, but also of a picturesque 
 character. The gum and bloodwood trees, on the flats of the 
 right bank, are better adapted for building than any specimens 
 of timber we have seen since leaving the Albert. Walker's 
 Table mountain is composed of sandstone and grassed with 
 triodia. The view from its summit embraced a long line of 
 the lower course of the river, and a small portion of the upper 
 course, closed in by confining ranges. 
 
 We finally abandoned the Flinders after a two miles' ride, 
 on the following day. At that point the channel was one 
 hundred and twenty yards wide, covered with quicksand, over 
 the lower surface of which meandered a stream of modest 
 pretensions, as the rapid absorption of its waters forcibly 
 indicated. This point is three hundred miles from the 
 estuary. 
 
CHAPTER XII. 
 1£ipel)itton ©berlanlJ to iKelbournc (continued.) 
 
 Change of Route — Part of the Australian Cordillera — Cornish Creek 
 — Tower Hill — Suspicious Behaviour of Blacks — Character of the 
 Country — Bowen Downs — Intercourse with Friendly Blacks — 
 Attempt to Cross to the Barcoo — The Thomson — Wittin, our Guide 
 — His Disappearance. 
 
 As the Flinders now trended too much to the eastward, we 
 abandoned her pleasant waters for the purpose of reaching 
 the Barcoo, which lay directly to the southward of us. 
 We accordingly steered south for fourteen miles, and en- 
 camped at the head of a tributary of Cornish creek, which, 
 in turn, is a tributary of the Landsborough river ; this, 
 again, joins the Thomson, and as the Thomson is one of 
 the feeders of the Barcoo — known lower down under the 
 name of Cooper's creek — our new track was clear and well- 
 defined.* In our journey to Cornish creek we crossed part 
 of the Australian Cordillera. Although some of the 
 neighbouring heights were about 2,000 feet above the level 
 of the sea, a wheeled vehicle might easily have been driven 
 along our route. The soil is poor ; wooded with iron barkf 
 
 * A glance at the map will show the central character of this 
 spot. The head of the Barcoo river was discovered by Sir T. Mitchell, 
 who named it the Victoria Biver. He fancied that its outlet would be 
 at Carpentaria. Kennedy was sent to trace it, but the completeness of 
 the drought, some distance below the junction of the Thomson, com- 
 pelled him to return. He guessed the Barcoo, however, to be the head of 
 Cooper's Creek. Subsequently, Gregory, on following it down, on his 
 way to South Australia, ascertained this to be the case. As there is a 
 river in Northern Australia called the Victoria, the native name, Barcoo, 
 is now applied to the river in question. 
 
 t Iron-bark belongs to the class Eucalyptus. 
 
86 EXPEDITION OVEELAND TO MELBOURNE. 
 
 and blood- wood, and grassed with triodia. In the valleys, 
 the pasturage was good, and the trees were of the acacia 
 class. 
 
 March 27. — We expended three days in tracing the 
 southerly creek forty-six miles. The water was copious, and 
 the bed consisted of sandstone, the structure of the holes 
 being such as to fit them well for reservoirs. Sheep, to do 
 well here, must be run in small flocks ; for, although there 
 is a fair supply of excellent grass along the creek, triodia 
 is superabundant. This grass is certainly better than 
 nothing, as sheep will eat it willingly enough when it is 
 sprouting, and when more advanced it is preferred by them 
 to starvation. 
 
 Near camp, which was pitched on a small westerly feeder 
 of the Cornish, we observed dray tracks, distinct enough on 
 the flats, but, on the ridges, imperceptible. These were 
 satisfactory indications that we should find a station on 
 Bowen Downs, a few miles to the south. In a neighbouring 
 water-hole, Mr. Bourne caught a quantity of small fish, and 
 Fisherman gathered a supply of mussels. 
 
 A ride of seven miles across country presented us with 
 three different varieties of land : first, barren ridges wooded 
 with iron-bark and bloodwood ; second, flats covered with 
 myall, sandalwood, gidya, and saline herbage ; and lastly, 
 fine undulating grass country. From a height I descried, 
 with intense pleasure. Tower Hill, fifteen miles distant, which 
 marked the terminus of a previous expedition of mine, from 
 Eockhampton. On reaching it, on the following day, I was 
 glad to find I had made no mistake, which one is extremely 
 apt to do where the hills are so much alike, their general 
 form being that of pyramidal mounds, topped with ruins. 
 
EXPEDITION OVEELAND TO MELBOURNE. 87 
 
 The surrounding country consists of treeless downs, tlie de- 
 pressions being wooded with myall and gidya. Both soil and 
 grass excellent. 
 
 We pitched our camp on the margin of a chain of ponds, 
 half a mile to the east of Tower Hill, where I had the satis- 
 faction of showing my previously marked trees to my com- 
 panions, as a tangible proof of my knowledge of the country 
 thenceforward. Their hopes were further excited by the 
 expectation of finding a new station of my own, twenty-three 
 miles further on. But I had been counting my chickens 
 before they were hatched, as the district had not yet been 
 occupied.* The cropped appearance of the grass at one 
 place buoyed us up to the last, but Fisherman's conjecture 
 that grasshoppers had been at work proved to be correct. 
 
 March 30, being Sunday, was a day of rest, and on the 
 following morning we renewed our southerly journey. At 
 nine miles, we crossed the Cornish near its junction with the 
 Landsborough. After fording, we found ourselves on wooded 
 ranges of considerable extent : these were succeeded by rich, 
 undulating land, well grassed and occasionally belted with 
 box-trees. Here the accidental unloosening of a pack scared 
 its bearer so much that he galloped off and declined halting 
 till he had scattered the contents of his load on the ground. 
 These consisted of medicines and peas, the bulk of which were 
 lost. Deviating from the track of my party, somewhat 
 easterly, I presently found myself on unwooded plains ex- 
 tending as far as the eye could see. Ere long I came on the 
 track of an exploring party, which, with Jemmy's aid, I 
 
 * Now occupied by the Landsborough River Company : this and 
 adjoining country, in the hands of other parties, has proved to be of 
 first-rate quahty. 
 
88 EXPEDITION OVERLAND TO MELBOURNE. 
 
 traced for some distance ; and then proceeded to camp, whicli 
 was fixed fourteen miles beyond the last stage. 
 
 Next day, a ride of three miles brought us to an old 
 encampment of mine, — ^being the 69th from Eockhampton. 
 On that occasion, I did not trace the Landsborough beyond 
 the confluence of Arramac creek, five and a half miles 
 lower down. I delayed at that junction in order to take an 
 observation,* meanwhile having despatched my party down 
 the river. On approaching them, Jacky — who was my com- 
 panion — noticed a number of blacks who appeared to have 
 assumed a hostile attitude towards my party. To inspire 
 them with terror, we advanced at a rapid gallop, but, to our 
 surprise, they remained still, and received us with the cus- 
 tomary marks of submission or friendship. They presented 
 to us two boomerangs and a spear, and we gave them a good 
 tomahawk in exchange. No gift is more acceptable to these 
 inland tribes ; for, as only cast-off tomahawks are passed on 
 from hand to hand through the tribes of the settled districts, 
 those who are far inland have but a poor chance of having 
 any but old ones, which are hardly fit for their special pur- 
 pose of procuring opossums and honeycombs. It seemed as. 
 if the sudden show of friendship on the part of these blacks 
 was fictitious ; for Mr. Bourne informed me they had fol- 
 lowed him three miles ; and that one of the most powerful of 
 them, about six feet high, had been particularly offensive. 
 Mr. Bourne had repeatedly fired over his head, without 
 causing him any alarm, and once surprised him in the act of 
 throwing his boomerang. Jemmy, who understood the 
 dialect of this tribe, ascertained that they had seen no 
 
 * Lat. 22** 68' 
 
EXPEDITION OVEELAND TO MELBOUENB. 89 
 
 explorers with camels, though they had seen a party to the 
 eastward. 
 
 We travelled later in the day than usual, with the view of 
 avoiding a collision with these people ; but, while unsaddling 
 my horse, I observed some of them peering from behind trees. 
 "When Jemmy expressed my displeasure at their dogging oar 
 steps, they pretended not to have seen us before ; and assured 
 him they would not come near us till morning — which promise 
 they faithfully kept. 
 
 On their return, they proved to be very communicative, 
 informing us that the river flowed southward ; that it was 
 joined in about two days' journey by a large river from the 
 north-east ; that a long way down, the river-bank was desti- 
 tute of grass ; and that there were no hills beyond the ranges 
 in sight, and that they knew of no country to the westward 
 without grass. I am bound to remark that very little depen- 
 dence is to be placed on their statements ; for, like all 
 uncultivated people, they are much fonder of asking than 
 answering questions, and an approach to accuracy is only to 
 be secured by dint of long and tedious cross-questioning. 
 
 This camp was pitched on the left bank of the river, 
 between two isolatsd ranges : that on the left bank I named 
 Mackenzie Range, the other, Herbert Range. After this, the 
 country was undulating, the soil rich and abounding in myall 
 and gidya : the grass also was good, but, from the absence of 
 rain, not so green looking as that higher up. The low ground, 
 on the river, is wooded with box, having an undergrowth of 
 salt-bush and polygonum. To the eastward there extended a 
 fine open plateau. The increased depth of the river — sixty 
 feet in width — forced upon me the conviction that it was fed 
 
90 EXPEDITION OVEELAND TO MELBOURNE. 
 
 by a larger one from the west. For this reason, it passes 
 under the new name of the Thomson. 
 
 April 4. — Our course hither from the Flinders had been 
 nearly southerly, or in the direction of Melbourne ; and the 
 Thomson led considerably to the westward of the south, or 
 straight to Burke's depot, at Cooper's creek. "With sufficient 
 provisions, I should certainly have adopted that easier route ; 
 and, lamentably low as my commissariat supplies were, I should 
 still have made for Burke's depot, had I known that Mr. 
 Howitt was there with reserve stores for such explorers as 
 remained in the field. In my ignorance of that fact, I 
 had no resource but to give up tracking Burke and make for 
 the frontier settlement to the southward or eastward ; and I 
 chose the former. The approaching dusk found us encamped 
 eighteen miles further, on a chain of ponds named by 
 me Stark creek. Before reaching it, we had to cross two 
 other creeks, respectively named the Salton and the Isabella. 
 A journey of twenty-two miles, on the following day, again 
 brought us to the river, from which we had been straying too 
 far to the left. 
 
 Next day's journey extended twenty miles over country 
 similar to the rest of Bowen Downs, and again encamped at 
 the river-side, where we remained till Monday morning. 
 Although the country bore no indications of rain, yet the 
 river was flooded. Here an old black fellow paid us a visit, 
 and, as he was vastly pleased with the effect of the discharge 
 of a gun, he returned next day, and introduced a friend who 
 was curious to inspect the mystery. They examined our 
 equipment with great curiosity, and accepted our gifts grate- 
 fully, without attempting to steal anything. The gifts 
 
EXPEDITION OVERLAND TO MELBOUENE. 91 
 
 consisted of a needle and thread, clothes, a broad file, and a 
 broken glass bottle. With the file they would be able to make 
 a tolerable tomahawk (at least better than their own or worn- 
 out iron ones), and the broken bottle they would use as a 
 knife and wood scraper. They seemed to relish some food 
 that we gave them ; and by Jemmy's instructions, they 
 learned to say "Thank you, Sir," for what they received. 
 They told Jemmy of a well watered road leading to a river to 
 the southward. On that river, the blacks by their account 
 had clothes, and it was from them that they had got the 
 tomahawks. 
 
 We made an attempt to cross the country towards the 
 Barcoo, but were obliged to return through the absence of 
 water. Next day. Jemmy and I advanced to explore the route 
 more minutely. We went along the plains on the left bank 
 of the Thomson, in a south and by west direction, with the 
 expectation of finding a well watered tributary of the 
 Thomson, which was reported by the blacks to join the latter 
 river a few miles below our camp. But as a ride of eight 
 miles failed to bring to light the tributary we were in quest 
 of, we returned to the Thomson and traced it southerly 
 till we met some of the blacks who had misdirected us. 
 They undertook to show us the road, in return for a toma- 
 hawk and a shirt. Besides our old friends, I noticed two old 
 gins, and a little girl. One of the gins was frightfully dis- 
 figured by the loss of her nose and lips. The little girl was 
 about four years old ; plump and of good features. One of 
 the little boys greatly enjoyed a ride on one of our horses, 
 and his friends appeared pleased with our attentions to the 
 sable urchin. 
 
 Eeturning to camp, I brought my party next day, after 
 
92 EXPEDITION OVERLAND TO MELBOURNE. 
 
 a wearisome journey, to the appointed rendez-vous witli our 
 proposed guides. We found them waiting for us, and ready 
 to conduct us to a suitable place for encamping. Wittin, one 
 of tlie black fellows, to wbom I gave a pound of flour, had it 
 baked by Jemmy into a cake, which he and his companions 
 ate. They were no less pleased with the present of a comb, 
 and Jemmy performed on them, to their intense amusement, 
 the duties of hair-dresser. Wittin and Co. went ahead 
 next day to search for water for our first stage ; but, as they 
 were unsuccessful, they gave us the choice of two other 
 practicable roads to the Barcoo Eiver — the one by Stark 
 creek from a point higher up the Thomson — the other by a 
 point lower down. We determined to try the latter. 
 
 On the following day, Wittin and a young companion 
 accompanied us ; and I gave them a horse to ride alternately. 
 But Monsieur Wittin so greatly preferred horseback to foot, 
 that he appropriated the lion's share. A mile before reaching 
 camp, Wittin and his companion fell in with some friends and 
 we left him with them. 
 
 Next day, however, he again made his appearance, with 
 the welcome resolution of guiding us to the Barcoo. He 
 introduced an intelligent looking, gray-haired man, bringing 
 also a tall robust young gin* with a little boy who stood at a 
 respectful distance from us. Indeed, the latter were so timid 
 that, on our approach, they ran away. Wittin, with the 
 air of a patron and connoisseur, showed his friend our guns, 
 water-bottles, &;c. 
 
 * As before noted, the old blacks have the choice of the hand- 
 somest young women, and of many other good things besides. This 
 they effect by pretending to exercise a blighting influence on young 
 men. As children, the males are not allowed to be harshly corrected 
 by their mothers. 
 
EXPEDITION OVERLAND TO MELBOURNE. 93 
 
 Leaving camp at 9*30 we traversed fine, undulating country, 
 with rich soil, dry grass, and box-tree. A short distance 
 from where we encamped, at nine miles and a-half, sandstone 
 ridges, wooded with acacia and sandalwood, stretched along 
 the left bank of the river. Wittin told Jemmy that he had 
 seen to the eastward, about ten moons previously, a party of 
 travellers, consisting of four whites and four black men. 
 He had received a shirt from them, but no bread. Wittin 
 was suffering so much from the unpleasant effects of his 
 equestrian exercise that he wished to return. 
 
 Shortly after our next day's start, we observed a consider- 
 able range right ahead of us, which Wittin called Trimpie 
 Yawbaw. The highest of some hills to the westward of it I 
 called Mount Pring. For some time we fondly deceived our- 
 selves by trying to imagine some distant emu to be cattle. 
 After a journey of fourteen miles over more level ground than 
 that previously traversed, we encamped. 
 
 Anxious to retain Wittin's services as guide, I made free 
 with the name of the Governor of Queensland, promising 
 that he should be forwarded to Bowen Downs, and presented 
 with a medal, tomahawk, and blanket. To keep up his 
 spirits. Fisherman and Jackey treated him to a corroboree 
 dance, for which they painted themselves with white streaks, 
 which, as they danced before the blazing fire, made them 
 appear like skeletons. 
 
 The district in which we now found ourselves was that 
 which Grregory had explored in 1859, when in search of 
 Leichhardt's tracks ; and, henceforward, I finally despaired 
 of finding Burke's tracks. Led by Wittin, we ascended a 
 creek, which, though then all but dry, showed high flood 
 marks ; and the banks, were strewn with mussel shells. I 
 
94 EXPEDITION OVERLAND TO MELBOURNE. 
 
 named it the Dunsmore. Tlie ground on both sides is level, 
 the soil rich, and the grass good. Box trees grew near the 
 creek ; the country beyond the north bank is unwooded ; that 
 beyond the south one grows myall and gidya. Emu in 
 abundance, but too wild to be approachable. 
 
 Next day, we were much vexed by the disappearance of our 
 guide. He made for the creek as if to drink, but did not 
 return. It appears, from the report of my black boys, that 
 he dreaded the natives of the Barcoo, as they did not belong 
 to his tribe. As his services had been hitherto of the greatest 
 value, I regretted that he had thought proper to decamp with- 
 out receiving his promised reward. 
 
CHAPTER XIII. 
 ^jcpetition ©bedant to i^elbourne (concluded). 
 
 The Barcoo River — Collision witli the Natives — Cross-country ride to 
 the Warrego — The Bottle Tree — Scrub Country — "Warrego River — 
 Tracks of Cattle and Horses — The First Station — Journey to 
 Melbourne vid Darling River — General Remarks. 
 
 Following tlie creek thirteen miles further we reached the 
 neighbourhood of its source in Johnstone Eange. Early next 
 morning we made straight for the Barcoo ; and we soon found 
 ourselves on its water-shed and one of its feeders, named by 
 me Archer creek. Tracing it for thirteen miles, we arrived 
 at its junction with the Barcoo. This was the point which 
 Sir T. Mitchell reached, in his attempted journey of 1849 to 
 Carpentaria, the practicability of prosecuting which it has 
 fallen to my lot to demonstrate. The river contained 
 abundance of water ; but, in order to avoid a collision with 
 the blacks, whose tracks were here fresh, I returned up 
 Archer creek and encamped on a patch of beautiful grass. 
 The country drained by this creek is rich, well grassed, and 
 provided with saltbush. The timber is myall and gidya, 
 with gum trees and box near the river.* 
 
 On Monday we ascended the left or western bank of the 
 Barcoo about sixteen miles, along a thickly wooded and ridgy 
 course ; here and there, however, the ground was flat, where 
 it was intersected by feeders and backwaters. At such places 
 the new grass was of good quality. 
 
 An eighteen miles' journey on the following day led us 
 * Lat. 24« 35'. 
 
96 EXPEDITION OVEELAND TO MELBOUENE. 
 
 through, country of inferior quality, and so densely wooded 
 with gidya that we were compelled to keep to the river flats. 
 While advancing with Jemmy to join my party, I passed an 
 elderly gin and a little boy, and presently, a group of about a 
 dozen blacks. Mr. Bourne stated that they had been 
 following him with something like suspicious persistency. 
 Jemmy ascertained from them that no explorers with camels, 
 and, to my surprise, none with drays had passed this way. We 
 presented them with glass bottles, a powder flask, and some 
 hair from the horses tails. Jemmy warned them not to 
 follow us, but they continued to do so, on the pretence of 
 procuring a light. During the night, however. Jemmy 
 suddenly roused us from our slumbers with the information 
 that the blacks were upon us. We were immediately on the 
 alert, and all but myself discharged their guns in the direc- 
 tion in which they had been heard. We then sent up two 
 rockets, the first of which, being a failure, was hailed with a 
 jeering laugh. Exasperated, as I was, at the treachery of the 
 blacks, I resolved to act on the offensive on the next provoca- 
 tion. Accordingly, on their again approaching at breakfast 
 time, heavily armed with clubs, and throwing sticks, I, after 
 repeatedly warning them, through Jemmy, of their danger, 
 ordered a volley. The discharge wounded one, and the others 
 escaped. On giving chase, the wounded man was despatched 
 in the heat of the moment, and the others disappeared from 
 our view. The fatal effect of my collision with the blacks, 
 in this instance, will always be regretted by me ; but, on 
 calmly reviewing the circumstances of my position, separated, 
 as my small party was, from their horses, what other resource 
 was either safe or prudent ? It is highly probable that these 
 were the same blacks who had been engaged in the tragic 
 
EXPEDITION OVERLAND TO MELBOURNE. 97 
 
 Will's massacre, whicli took place in this neighbourliood ;* 
 and it was certainly this tribe which made a nocturnal attack 
 on Gregory's party. 
 
 To-day we travelled eighteen miles chiefly up the western 
 bank of the river, over poor country, covered with gidya. 
 Fearing lest we should follow up the Alice affluent by mis- 
 take, we crossed to the further bank two miles before en- 
 camping. Several blacks were, from time to time, in sight ; 
 but, although they wished to speak, we were in no humour 
 for gratifying their curiosity. 
 
 Next morning, we struck across country for the river 
 Warrego ; resting on the Sunday, about eight miles to the 
 eastward -of our starting point. The country was, in all 
 respects, excellent, and well watered. The general character 
 was that of undulating downs, richly grassed and thinly 
 wooded with myall, gidya, brigalow,j- box, &c. The same 
 kind of country continued on the following day's ride of ten 
 miles. During this ride, my horse suddenly dropped dead. 
 She was one of the best of the troupe and in excellent con- 
 dition. We crossed one of the finest water-courses I have 
 seen in this district ; and we followed it up about six miles. 
 Our route lay through several belts of gidya wood-land, the 
 intervening country being of the same excellent character as 
 that above described, with the additional adornment of the 
 beautiful drooping acacia. The foliage of this tree is lovely, 
 and the wood (which is like ebony, and therefore useful for 
 stock whip handles,) possesses an aromatic smell. 
 
 * Mr. "Wills was a new settler, and had shewn the blacks every 
 kindness and proof of confidence. Twenty-three persons were murdered, 
 and none but a single shepherd escaped to tell the dreadful tale. 
 
 t Brigalow is a kind of acacia, remarkably beautiful when growing 
 in occasional clumps, but, when in profusion, it is very monotonous. 
 
 H 
 
98 EXPEDITION OVERLAND TO MELBOUBNE. 
 
 Proceeding easterly for nine miles, we crossed a creek, 
 unfortunately without watering the horses ; for a hard 
 ride of sixteen miles presented none to our view. Near the 
 spot where we encamped, the horses luckily found sufficient 
 water to quench their thirst. This part of the country was, 
 on the whole, not to be compared with that before traversed ; 
 and, on account of its wooded character, altogether unsuitable 
 for the pioneer squatter, who, from insufficiency of capital, is 
 commonly forced to depasture his sheep in large flocks. 
 
 Next day, we kept a south-easterly course, over poor 
 thickly-wooded country. The scrub, which consisted chiefly 
 of mulgah, was occasionally varied with broad-leaved iron 
 bark, bloodwood, curryjong,* and bottle trees. The bottle 
 tree I have formerly noted in connexion with the O'Shannassey. 
 The shape of the trunk much resembles that of a champagne 
 bottle. When young, the bulby stem is edible, and the wood 
 of the full-grown trees is so soft that the trunk can be easily 
 scooped, or shovelled out. The quality, conjoined with its 
 convenient shape, renders it peculiarly suitable for making 
 canoes. When the bark is pierced, it also provides the thirsty 
 wayfarer with a refreshing draught of pure water. Early 
 in our journey, we were surprised by the discovery of dray- 
 tracks ; but whether they dated a few months or several years 
 back, it was impossible to determine. 
 
 May 3. — This day's journey of twenty-five miles down the 
 creek found us so tired, that we were not sorry the following 
 day was the Day of Eest. In the course of our ride, we 
 observed a tree marked F. M., and several horse-tracks, which 
 encouraged the supposition that frontier squattages were near. 
 The creek, which now led us southwards, grew in importance, 
 
 * Hibiscus heterojihyllus. 
 
EXPEDITION OVERLAND TO MELBOURNE. 99 
 
 and the flats were clothed with good grass, cotton, and salt- 
 bush. As a whole, however, mulgah scrub held the pre- 
 eminence. A further ride of twenty miles did not impress 
 me more favourably with this district. 
 
 In the expectation of finding sheep stations more to the 
 east, we abandoned the creek, and proceeded in that direction 
 twenty-five miles. Our track lay over flat, poor, monotonous 
 country, broken only once by a sandstone ridge. It was 
 thickly covered with mulgah scrub and broad-leaved box, and 
 frequented by numbers of kangaroos and wallabies. Next 
 day's journey presented a repetition of similar experiences. 
 Crossing a creek with high flood-marks, we encamped at the 
 base of a lofty sandstone range. In this neighbourhood the 
 country is more satisfactory. We made a sumptuous supper 
 on emu eggs. 
 
 Surmounting the range, we followed the course of a brook 
 flowing to the south-west. The soil here, though sandy, was 
 covered with luxuriant grass. Indistinct traces of horses, or 
 cattle, were numerous ; and the appearance of the cypress 
 pine and Moreton Bay ash further excited us with the hope 
 of an early shelter under some hospitable roof. During our 
 ride of twenty-one miles, on the following day, we observed a 
 tree marked 1861, Jachu, C.H.B., A.K.O.* 
 
 May 12. — We were now either on the Warrego itself or on 
 one of its tributaries ; but, in the hope of soon reaching a 
 sheep-station, I preferred to steer south-south-east. Accord- 
 ingly, leaving the river, we struck cross-country; and found 
 ourselves stranded in a waterless region. The first day we rode 
 seventeen hours without finding water, and the second day, 
 
 * Messrs. CoUina, Barker and Jachu, on their route from the Warrego 
 to Eockhampton. 
 
 h2 
 
100 EXPEDITION OVERLAND TO MELBOUENE, 
 
 eleven hours, with a similar result. We decided to return to 
 the river, and considered ourselves fortunate in finding water, 
 as the horses had been seventy-two hours without it. The 
 nights were excessively cold, and, on one occasion, we found 
 ice in the buckets. Jemmy got badly burned through lying 
 too near the camp fire. We anointed him with pomatum and 
 bandaged his wounds with calico ; but the pain thus occasioned 
 was so great that he begged us to abandon him. Having, 
 however, dusted his body with flour, he was able to sit on his 
 horse. 
 
 The country was level and overrun partly with mulgah 
 scrub, partly triodia patches, studded with iron bark, broad- 
 leaved box, and "apple" trees.* I also observed clumps of 
 mimosa — a kind of acacia — ^more commonly called green 
 wattle. 
 
 Next day, we traced the creek to its junction with the 
 Warrego, along whose scrubby, banks we rode thirteen miles 
 and encamped. Blacks were observed on the opposite bank, 
 but they deftly avoided us, probably conjecturing we were 
 police-troopers, j- We made an excellent supper on a bustard 
 that Mr. Bourne had shot. We were now so short of pro- 
 visions that one of the horses had been fixed on for slaughter. J 
 I was much relieved, however, that Mr. Bourne's successful 
 
 * I e., Angophora lanciolata, a beautiful and umbrageous tree. 
 
 t "We subsequently heard they bad lately murdered a hut-keeper in 
 the neighbourhood. 
 
 X It was Mr, Gregory's custom to feed his party occasionally on 
 horse-flesh, even when his provisions were abundant. His object was 
 to prevent scurvy. Dr. Leichhardt, in cases of dire extremity, subsisted 
 on his beasts of burden. Mclnlay, in his late northern expedition, 
 was compelled to eat nearly all his stock of horses, cattle, sheep, and 
 camels. Camels were preferred by him to horses, both as beasts of 
 burden and food. 
 
EXPEDITION OlUaLANT, TO MEIJBOTTENE., 101 
 
 gun saved us from that necessity, by further providing us 
 with an emu. 
 
 The appearance of a fine herd of cattle, on the following 
 day, at once charmed and relieved our minds. On seeing us, 
 the cattle made for their camp, whither we were only too 
 eager to follow them ; for the novelty of the sight frightened 
 the pack-horses and caused them to disperse in all directions. 
 We were at length reluctantly compelled to be content with 
 another night's star-gazing. 
 
 May 21. — A short ride of three miles brought us to the 
 first human habitation we had seen since leaving the Albert 
 River depot. It was the station of the Messrs. Williams, and 
 they received and entertained us with every welcome and 
 hospitality. We were shocked to hear the melancholy news 
 of Burke and his companions ; and sat long listening eagerly 
 to the events that had transpired in our long absence from the 
 civilized world. It was far on in the night before we retired 
 to bed — to bed, but not to sleep, for the sensation of being 
 environed by mud walls roofed with shingle was too sudden a 
 change from our late wild and nomadic life. 
 
 The situation of this station is good, and the country in the 
 neighbourhood very superior to that by which we had 
 approached it. The distances by the road from Melbourne, 
 Adelaide, Maitland, and Brisbane were respectively 800, 900, 
 600 and 700 miles. We resolved to make for Melbourne by 
 the river Darling which was 220 miles distant ; and, as there 
 were but few stations on the way, Messrs. Williams kindly 
 supphed us with the requisite provisions. 
 
 Four days' journey brought us to a station named Warroo- 
 rooka, where the river Warrego was imperfectly represented by 
 
102 ', ;:^Xi;i]DiyiOir'QyEEBAND TO MELBOURNE. 
 
 water-holes separated at short, but irregular intervals from 
 each other. 
 
 On entering the territory of N. S. "Wales, I was much 
 struck with the difference in the character of the grass-land 
 as compared with that of Queensland : instead of grass only 
 occasionally varied with the invaluable salt-bush, we traversed 
 large tracts of country entirely clothed with this plant. On 
 the second of June, 1862, 1 reached Bunnawaunah, where the 
 newspapers informed me of Mr. Walker's arrival at Port 
 Denison, six weeks previous; and that Mr. Howitt was 
 remaining, with a supply of provisions at Cooper's creek, in 
 expectation of my arrival there. But as my most convenient 
 route to Melbourne was by Menindie, I continued to trace the 
 Darling three to four hundred miles to that point, taking with 
 me one of Burke's strayed camels, which I had found. From 
 Menindie I hastened forward in advance of my party, and 
 soon arrived in Melbourne, where the manner of my reception 
 was so enthusiastic and generous as to surprise and confound 
 me. Never, in the course of my life, can I forget the genial 
 and munificent appreciation of my humble task, then 
 manifested by the Metropolis of the South, and, subsequently, 
 by the citizens of Sydney and Brisbane. 
 
 Inasmuch as the opening up of the Carpentaria region has 
 become a question of great practical moment, and the promi- 
 nent result of all the late explorations, I append to this brief 
 and crude sketch of my travels a general description of the 
 pastoral capabilities of the North, as they have been given to 
 the English public, wholly independently of me, by my late 
 second in command, Mr. Bourne ; concluding with a general 
 summary of the special district over which I have now the 
 honor to preside. 
 
PASTOEAL CAPABILITIES OF NORTH AUSTRALIA. 
 
 " The late rapid progress of Australian exploration has laid 
 open vast territories to British enterprise. It was my fortune 
 to be engaged in one of the expeditions undertaken to search 
 for the lamented Burke and Wills, and in the performance 
 of that duty I resided for several months together at the 
 depot formed at the Albert River, which flows into the Gulf 
 of Carpentaria. During my stay there I made such investiga- 
 tions into the capabilities of the country, the nature of the 
 climate, soil, vegetation, &c., as lay in my power, and from 
 the knowledge thus derived from personal experience, I am, 
 perhaps, entitled to speak with some authority on these points. 
 
 " Since my arrival in England the question has often been 
 asked me whether we shall ever be able to put these recently 
 opened territories to practical use ; and, especially, whether the 
 more northern portions of Australia will be found suitable for 
 the production of that valuable and important commodity 
 which has made the southern portions of the continent so 
 prosperous, viz. — fine wool. As this point is of great interest 
 to all connected with the Australian colonies, I will, with your 
 permission, make a few remarks bearing on this question. 
 
 " Judging by its position on the map, no spot on the whole 
 continent of Australia would appear more admirably suited for 
 a colony than the country about Carpentaria, situated as it is 
 in close proximity to the Indian and Chinese markets, and 
 occupying as it does a half-way stage on the route between 
 these and all the south-lying colonies. But reasoning from 
 theory, and what is observed in other parts of the world, it is 
 generally but erroneously supposed that these advantages are 
 negatived by the fact of its lying within the tropics, and that 
 therefore all those conditions of climate, &c., which exist in 
 other parts of the continent, such as New South Wales, 
 Victoria, &c., must be wanting. The heat, it is said, must of 
 
104 PASTORAL CAPABILITIES OP NORTH AUSTRALIA. 
 
 necessity be too trying for European constitutions, and also, 
 that most certainly it would be impossible to produce wool 
 like that grown further south, as the increase of temperature 
 on approaching so much nearer the equator would be such as 
 to change it into hair, or at any rate would render the fleece 
 so light as to make sheep-farming an unprofitable, if not an 
 impossible, pursuit. These opinions I have often heard 
 expressed by many men of the highest intelligence, but who 
 look upon wool-growing as a mere question of latitude ; and 
 I do not wonder at it, for I must admit that my own notions 
 were once precisely similar. 
 
 " But in speculating upon any question relating to 
 Australia the only safe guide is experience, for Australia has 
 in many respects negatived the preconceived views of some of 
 our most eminent scientific men ; and, indeed, nothing is 
 more certain than that arguments advanced upon data 
 supplied by other countries will not apply to it. The theories 
 of science have repeatedly broken down when put forward to 
 explain its anomalous phenomena. What old colonist does 
 not remember the prophecies uttered by scientific men in New 
 South Wales when Moreton Bay (now called Queensland) was 
 first occupied by squatters ? It was then confidently asserted 
 that sheep stations would not answer so far north, because the 
 fleece degenerated when grown beyond a certain degree of 
 latitude, and that all attempts to grow wool there would 
 signally fail ; and yet experience, the only true test, has 
 proved that fleeces of the finest quality are produced in 
 Queensland, despite its high temperature. Probably the 
 hottest parts (during both day and night) of Australia are the 
 Darling, the Bogan, and the Macquarrie, where Sir Thomas 
 Mitchell found the thermometer to range from 90^^ to 127'^ ; 
 yet even there wool is most profitably grown. 
 
 " This question of temperature is all-important in relation 
 to the pastoral capabilities of any district ; but to judge of 
 these by a single reference to the latitude on a map without 
 taking other data into consideration, such as elevation above 
 and distance from the sea, the existence of mountain ranges, 
 &c., is a complete fallacy. It is owing to local peculiarities 
 of this kind that portions of Australia lying near the tropics 
 — such as the Maranoa and Leichhardt districts — ^have, con- 
 
PASTOEAL CAPABILITIES OP NOETH AUSTEALIA. 105 
 
 trary to all theorising on the subject, proved so well adapted 
 for the production of the finer kinds of wool. It might very 
 naturally be supposed, judging from its physical character- 
 istics, that the country about Carpentaria would prove an 
 exception, seeing that such local modifying conditions are 
 apparently absent. In the neighbourhood of the Gulf there 
 are no lofty ranges ; and the elevation of the Plains of 
 Promise is so very trifling, although these plains gradually 
 rise from the coast inland, that they must of necessity be 
 subject to intense heats. Only seventeen degrees from the 
 equator, and but little removed abosre the level of the sea in 
 their vicinity, what else could be expected but a thermometer 
 ranging so uniformly high as to put aU idea of successful 
 wool-growing out of the question ? 
 
 " And yet, as if on purpose to upset all preconceived 
 notions, and still further to illustrate the fact that from its 
 southern to its most northern extremity all Australia is an 
 anomaly, the real fact is that at its tropical extremity 
 the temperature is actually lower than in those districts 
 alluded to. 
 
 " Upon this curious fact all observers and explorers, from 
 Robert Brown, the botanist, to Landsborough, are agreed, 
 and all naturally dwell upon it with surprise. Yet the 
 explanation is very simple as given by Leichhardt in his 
 work, page 377, which I quote. He thus writes : — 
 
 " ' The most interesting fact, and which had already been 
 observed by Captain Stokes, was the moderate temperature of 
 this part of the country. If my readers compare my obser- 
 vations on the weather, from latitude 15 deg. 55 min. at the 
 east coast to latitude 17 deg. 39 min. on the west coast of 
 the Gulf, they will be struck by the general complaint of 
 " cold nights." If they compare the direction of the winds, 
 they wiU find that at the east coast the southerly and south- 
 south-westerly winds were very cold, and that they became 
 southerly and south-easterly at the apex, and turned still 
 more to the eastward at the west coast. In comparing these 
 directions of the wind, I was led to the conclusion that the 
 large plains were the origin and cause of these winds. The 
 bracing nature of these winds, and of the cold nights, had a 
 very beneficial effect on our bodies, &c. 
 
106 PASTOEAL CAPABILITIES OF NORTH AUSTRALIA. 
 
 " * Leicliliardt was on the coast during the winter months. 
 My own stay on the Albert Eiver was during the hottest 
 season of the year, viz., from November to February, and 
 during that period I carefully registered the records of the 
 thermometer, and thus found the mean range to be very much 
 lower than in some parts of Victoria and New South Wales. 
 Moreover, the hot winds which Leichhardt said might pre- 
 vail in summer I found did not exist ; so that the very 
 circumstances which elsewhere cause a high temperature to 
 exist produce the very opposite condition at the Gulf of 
 Carpentaria.' "* 
 
 To these remarks of Mr. Bourne I have to add the following 
 summary brought down to the latest date : — 
 
 The shores of the Gulf of Carpentaria are very level for a 
 considerable distance inland. Where the soil is rich, which is 
 commonly the case, it is covered with a fine natural herbage 
 that has proved to be of a most excellent quality for stock 
 of all kinds. Near the watercourses the land is sparsely 
 wooded with stunted box and other trees ; but between the 
 watercourses, in many places, there are large plains totally 
 destitute of timber. 
 
 According to Captain Stokes, the best authority on the 
 navigation of the Northern coast, the general appearance of 
 the head of the Gulf is that of a low mangrove shore, 
 between ten to thirty feet high, over which the interior is not 
 visible from the offing. Twenty-six inlets, within a distance 
 of 200 miles, were more or less examined by him ; three of 
 these proved to be rivers, and three more were nearly as 
 promising. Of the rivers. Captain Stokes evidently regarded 
 the Albert with the greatest favor ; but it, like all the others, 
 has a bar at its mouth, which has only eighteen inches of 
 water at low tide. Unfortunately, the tide in the Albert 
 only rises once in the twenty-four hours. The rise at spring 
 tides is from nine to twelve feet, and at neap tides, from 
 three to eight feet. At present the bar offers no great 
 obstacle to vessels sufficiently large for the trade, nor will it 
 for some little time to come, as they can get over it at high 
 water, and afterwards can easily go up the river for thirteen 
 
 * This communication originally appeared in the Daily News, 
 
PASTORAL CAPABILITIES OF NORTH AUSTRALIA. 107 
 
 miles to a point within five miles of whicli the river is often 
 fresh, and where there are lagoons of fresh water within an 
 easy distance of the stream.* Shipping ports will before 
 long be established at other rivers besides the Albert. A 
 port on the Flinders will probably obtain the largest share of 
 the produce, from the fact that it will be the outlet to a 
 greater extent of back country ; that is to say, as long as 
 exports are confined to pastoral products. The Albert, also, 
 has very fine back country for pastoral purposes, but it is 
 limited in extent, and to the westward it is very inferior ; 
 but, on the other hand, the Albert Eiver is more easy of 
 access, being only thirty-three miles distant from Investigator 
 Roads. 
 
 Investigator Eoads is situated between Bentin^k and 
 Sweer's Islands. The former is a well watered island about 
 thirty miles in circumference ; the latter, however, although 
 much smaller, is better adapted for settlement in the first 
 instance, as it is not much frequented by blacks. When 
 Captain Norman was cruising in the Victoria, along the shores 
 of Carpentaria, in the summer of 1861, in search of traces 
 of Burke's party, he established a depot on Sweer's Island, 
 and another on the banks of the Albert. The climate was 
 found to be healthy at both places. The heat of the season 
 was found to be alleviated by an almost continual sea breeze. 
 The people at the depot at Sweer's Island were not much 
 troubled with mosquitoes, which of all nuisances induced by 
 warm weather is perhaps the most annoying. As Investigator 
 Roads presents the only good anchorage for large vessels 
 along the shores of Carpentaria, the future city of the Gulf 
 may be on either Sweer's or Bentinck Island. 
 
 Last year (1865) Messrs. Morehead and Young led the way 
 to, and took possession of, some country on the Albert River. 
 Their stock was brought from the Mitchell district by the 
 Upper Flinders ; they thus established a road between the 
 two places. The Upper Flinders had previously been settled, 
 and was connected by a road with Port Denison. 
 
 The next road was made by Messrs. Macdonald and Co., 
 who led the way with stock from their stations near ^he head 
 
 * The brig Firefly, which had a draught of between nine and ten feet, 
 was taken about fourteen miles up the Albert Eiver. 
 
108 PASTOEAL CAPABILITIES OF NOETH AUSTEALIA, 
 
 of the Burdekin to the Albert Eiver ; in doing so they made 
 a plain road from the settled country at the north-west of 
 Port Denison to the Albert Eiver.* This enterprising firm 
 made another important step ; they chartered a vessel in 
 Sydney to take stores to the Albert Eiver, which arrived 
 safely at its destination, and has since been followed by 
 several others. So greatly has this traffic increased that 
 already as many as four vessels have been laid on at one time 
 for Carpentaria. 
 
 Stock are now depastured throughout the whole length of 
 the Flinders, and on the Oloncurry, which is the western 
 branch of that river. Stock are also depastured on the banks 
 of the Leichhardt, and on the banks of the Landsborough. The 
 estuary of the Flinders is about seventy miles to the eastward 
 of that of the Albert ; and that of the Leichhardt is inter- 
 mediate. The estuary of the Nicholson is a few miles 
 westward of the Albert Eiver. The entire seaboard between 
 the Nicholson and the Flinders, a distance of more than 
 eighty miles, is already more or less occupied with stock. 
 
 The last accounts state that the settlement of the country 
 is progressing favourably. Forty persons (including two 
 females and a medical man) had settled at the spot on the 
 Albert where the Firefly was abandoned, and were preparing 
 to erect stores, as soon as the site of the township shall 
 have been proclaimed. As the newly-appointed Police 
 Magistrate and Commissioner, I shall arrive at the settle- 
 ment early this year, to report on the best sites for town- 
 ships, and to lay down plans for the future. Hitherto, the 
 blacks have not been found troublesome. Cattle and sheep 
 are said to be thriving admirably, and to compare advan- 
 tageously in the matter of condition with those on the best 
 stations in other districts. 
 
 *A sum has already been voted by Parliament for telegraphic exten- 
 sion beyond Port Denison, and it is probable that this line will ultimately 
 connect Australia with Asia vid Java and Singapore. 
 
A SYSTEMATIC ARRANGEMENT 
 
 OF THE 
 
 r>L A.NTS 
 
 NOTICED ABOUND 
 
 THE GULF OF CARPENTARIA, 
 
 PROM THE ROPER TO THE GILBERT RIVER, 
 
 INCLTJDINO THOSE COLLECTED DURING MR. LANDSBOROUGH'S EXPEDITION, 
 
 AND EXAMINED BY 
 
 FEEDINAND MUELLEE, 
 
 P.H.D., N.D., F.R.8. 
 
 Desieed by Mr. W. Landsborougli to furnish for the journal 
 of his important expedition across the Continent of Australia 
 a list of those plants known to exist at the Gulf of Car- 
 pentaria, I respond most readily to the call, and fulfil thereby 
 the duty which devolves on me of rendering some account of 
 the botanical collections formed during the first part of Mr. 
 Landsborough's expedition, and subsequently placed for 
 examination at my disposal. 
 
 It is also obvious, that an exact knowledge of the flora sur- 
 rounding the Gulf of Carpentaria, and of which as yet 
 nowhere any enumerative index exists, will, irrespective of the 
 interest which it possesses in regard to phyto-geographicri 
 researches, be calculated to afford some additional indications 
 of the climatic and other physical conditions of that part 
 of the globe, and which to elucidate becomes all-important at 
 this moment, when, by the opening of several available over- 
 
110 NOETH AUSTRALIAN FLORA. 
 
 land routes from tlie Southern to the Northern shores, the 
 territory near the Grulf of Carpentaria attracts such extensive 
 and deserved attention for the formation of new pastoral 
 settlements. 
 
 At Mr. Landsborough's request, I have extended this 
 enumeration so far as to include all the plants observed by 
 myself on the S.W., S., and S.E. territories of the Gulf. 
 For this purpose the corresponding notes vere extracted from 
 the yet unpublished diaries kept by myself, when 3company- 
 ing Mr. Aug. Gregory in his North Australian Expedition 
 during the years 1855 and 1856. 
 
 The brief space allotted for this Essay admits neither of 
 my entering into any phytological details beyond such as the 
 appended enumeration affords, nor to offer on this occasion a 
 discourse on the physical geography of the Gulf land. In 
 reference, however, to the latter, very much valuable informa- 
 tion is conveyed in Mr. Gregory's journal, published by the 
 Royal Geographical Society of London in 1858 ; whilst some 
 additional details, more particularly shedding light on the 
 vegetation of the Gulf country, were inserted in Sir 
 William Hooker's Kew Miscellany for 1856 and 1857, and 
 into the Proceedings of the Linnean Society for 1858 and 
 1859. 
 
 The list of plants now submitted cannot be regarded other- 
 wise than as imperfect, because the vegetation of but very few 
 of the coast points of the Gulf of Carpentaria has been 
 hitherto subjected to any, and none to close examination ; 
 whilst the inland vegetation of the Gulf basin could, during 
 the North Australian Expedition of 1856, only be investigated 
 on a single line of exploration, and at a season when the 
 herbaceous plants in a great measure were parched and obli- 
 terated. The fact, however, of various herbaceous plants, 
 discovered already by Sir Joseph Banks on the N.E. coast 
 during Captain Cook's first voyage, being found to re-appear 
 in the W. part of Arnhem's Land, leads to the anticipation, 
 that many of these extend around the Gulf ; whilst in other 
 parts of littoral tropical Australia so many species of plants 
 have proved identical with those of the Indian coast-tracts, 
 as to warrant the assumption, that future observers will yet 
 add, by investigations of the Carpentaria flora, considerably 
 
NOETH AUSTRALIAN FLORA. Ill 
 
 to the list of Indo-Australian plants, now already exceeding 
 700 species. 
 
 A glance at tlie subjoined enumeration will show that 
 the Gulf flora, at least in the tracts hitherto examined, 
 proves devoid of those jungle plants so characteristic of the 
 forest ranges of the Australian East coast ; that a vast pre- 
 dominance of aborescent phyllodinous Acaciae, and especially 
 of Eucalypti, impress on the vegetation a character by no 
 means dissimilar to the extra-tropical tracts of Australia ; 
 that plants indicating a high mountainous character of the 
 country are absent, and that amongst grasses and other her- 
 baceous plants very many occur of nutritious property and of 
 perennial growth, readily renewed by judicious burning, 
 when, after the rains of the summer months, a fresh pastoral 
 green will be desired for the future herds and flocks of the 
 Gulf country, during the cooler and drier season of the year. 
 
 Billeniacece. 
 Hibbertia lepidota, E. Br. ; H. tomentosa, E. Br. 
 
 Tinospora smilacina, Benth. 
 Stephania hernandifolia, Walp. 
 
 Nymphceacece. 
 
 Nymphaea stellata, W. ; N. gigantea, Hook. 
 Nelumbium speciosum, W. 
 
 CrucifercB. 
 Cardamine eustylis, F. M. 
 
 CapparideiZ, 
 
 Busteckea Mitchelli, F. M. 
 
 Cleome flava, Banks ; C. tetrandra, Banks. 
 
 Violarince. 
 
 lonidium enneaspermum, Vent. ; I. filiforme, D. C. 
 
 DroseracecB. 
 
 Drosera Burmanni, Vahl ; D. Indica, L. ; D. petiolaris, K. Br. 
 
 Franheniaceoe. 
 Frankenia Isevis, L. 
 
112 NORTH AUSTEALIAN FLOEA. 
 
 Polygalacece. 
 Polygala arvensis, W. 
 
 Pittosporea. 
 Bnrsaria spinosa, Cav. 
 Pittosporum phillyroides, D. C. ; P. melanospermum, F. M. 
 
 Caryophyllece, 
 
 Polycarpaea corymlDosa, Lam. ; P. synandra, F. M. ; P. longiflore, 
 F. M. ; P. spirostylis, F. M. ; P. staminodina, F. M. ; P. breviflora, 
 P.M. 
 
 Malvacew. 
 
 Sida corrugata, Lindl. ; S. retusa, L.: S. Indica, L. ; S. otocarpa, 
 F. M. 
 
 Abelmoschus albo-ruber, F. M. 
 
 Paritum tiliaceum, Jnss. 
 
 Hibiscus heterophyllus, Vent. ; H. pentaphyllus, F. M. ; H. zonatus, 
 F. M. : H. setulosus, F. M. ; H. panduriformis, Burm. 
 
 Thespesia populnea, Corr. 
 
 Gossypium Australe, F M. 
 
 Malvastrum ovatum, A. Gr. 
 
 SfercuJiacece. 
 
 Methorium integrifolium, F.M. 
 Helicteres Ixora, L. 
 Sterculia quadrifida, R. Br. 
 
 Bracbychiton platanoides, R. Br. ; B. diversifolium, R. Br. ; B. 
 ramiflorum, E.. Br. 
 
 Cochlospermum Gregorii, F. M. ; C. heteronemum, F. M. 
 
 Buettneriacea. 
 
 Keraudrenia Hookeri, Walp. 
 Dicarpidium monoicum , F. M. 
 Melochia pyramidata, L. 
 Riedleya corchorifolia, D. C. 
 Melhania incana, Heyne. 
 Waltberia Indica, L. 
 
 Tiliacece. 
 Grewia sp. 
 
 Triumfetta plumigera, F. M. ; T. micracantba, F. M. ; T. procum- 
 bens, Forst. 
 
 Corcborus sidoides, F. M. ; C. sp. 
 Elseocarpus sp. 
 
 Hypet icinecs. 
 Hypericum gramineum, Forst. 
 
 Bergia ammannioides, Eotb : B. Dcdicellaris, F.M. : B. verticillaris 
 F.M. 
 
NORTH AUSTRALIAN FLORA. 113 
 
 Sapindacece. 
 
 Dodonsea viscosa, L. ; D. lanceolata, F.M.; D. physocarpa, F.M. ; 
 D. acerosa, Lindl. ; D. oxyptera, F. M. ; D. platyptera, F. M. ; D. 
 stenophylla, F.M. 
 
 Distichostemon phyllopterus, F.M. 
 
 Atalaya variifolia, F.M. 
 
 Cardiospermum Helicacabum, L. 
 
 MeliacecB. 
 
 Owenia xerocarpa, F. M. ; O. reticulata, F. M. 
 Melia Azedarach, L. 
 
 Viniferee. 
 Vitis clematidea, F. M. 
 
 OxalidecB, 
 Oxalis comiculata, L, 
 
 ZygophylletB. 
 
 Tribulus terrestris, L. ; T. Brownii, F. M. : T. Solandri, F. M. 
 
 Eutacece. 
 
 Boronia artemisioides, F. M. ; B. grandisepalea, F. M. ; B. 
 lanceolata, F, M. 
 
 Staekhousiaee^e. 
 Stackhousia viminea, Sm. 
 
 Celastrinece. 
 Denhamia heterophylla, F. M. 
 Celastrus Cunninghami, F. M. 
 
 Mkamnaceoe. 
 Colubrina Asiatica, Brogn. 
 Alphitonia excelsa, Reiss. 
 Ventilago viminalis, Hook. 
 
 JTomalinece. 
 Homalium bracliybotryum, F. M. 
 
 Anacardice. 
 Bucbanania sp. 
 
 Portulacece. 
 
 Portulaca oleracea, L. ; P. digyna, F. M. ; P. filifolia, F. M. 
 Calandrinia spergularina, F. M. 
 
 Mollugineoe. 
 Qlinus mollugo, Fenzl ; G. lotoides, Loeffl. 
 
 Ficoidem. 
 Trianthema crystallina, Vahl ; T. pilosa, F. M. 
 
114 NOETH AUSTRALIAN FLOEA. 
 
 LeguminoscB. 
 Acacia pHebocarpa, F. M. ; A. pinifolia, Benth. ; A. subtemata 
 F. M. ; A salicina, Lindl. ; A. decora, Eeichenb. ; A. dineura, F. M. 
 A. hemignosta, F. M. ; A. pithyoides, F. M. ; A. orthocarpa, F. M. 
 A. goniocarpa, F. M. ; A. drepanocarpa, F. M. ; A. lysiphloia, F. M. 
 A. delibrata, A. Cunn. ; A. torulosa, F. M. ; A. conspersa, F. M. 
 A. calligera, F. M. ; A. umbellata, A. Cunn. ; A. sericata. A. Cunn. 
 A. holosericea, A. Cunn. ; A. limba'.a, F. M. ; A. dimidiata, Benth. 
 A. latifolia, Benth. ; A. Farnesiana, W. ; A. suberosa, A. Cunn. 
 Laboucheria chlorostachya, F. M, 
 Neptunia gracilis, Benth. 
 Pichecolobium moniliferum, Benth. 
 
 Cassia Absus, L. ; C. niimosoides, L. ; C. pumila, Lam. ; C. 
 oligoclada, F. M. ; C. magnifolia, F. M. ; C. venusta, F. M. 
 
 Bauhinia Leichhardtii, F. M. : B. Carronii, F. M. ; B. Hookeri, 
 F. M. 
 
 Petalogyne labicheoides, F. M. 
 Labichea rupestris, Benth. 
 Guilandina Banduc, L. 
 Abrus precatorius, L. 
 Erythrina vespertilionis, Benth. 
 Ehynchosia minima, D. C. 
 
 Cajanus acutifolius, F. M. ; C. grandifolius, F. M. ; C. cinereus, 
 F. M. 
 
 Canavallia obtusifolia, D. C. 
 Vigna sp. 
 
 Desmodium biarticulatum, F. M. ; D. sp. 
 Alysicarpus styracifolius, D. C. 
 Lourea vespertilionis, Desv. 
 Aeschynomene Indica, L. 
 Zomia chaetophora, F. M. ; Z. diphylla, Pers. 
 Agati formosum, F. M. 
 Sesbania armifica, F. M. ; S. aculeata, L. 
 Derris uliginosa, Benth. 
 Tephrosea purpurea, Pers. 
 Flemingia, sp. 
 Uraria Lagopus, D. C. 
 
 Psoralea pustulata, F. M. ; P. balsamica, F. M. ; P. patens, Lindl. 
 Indigofera linifolia, Retz ; I. haplophylla, F. M. ; I. viscosa. Lam. ; 
 I. enneaphylla, L. ; I. trita, L. ; I. trifoliata, L. ; I. hirsuta, L. 
 Lotus Australis, Andr. 
 Westonia humifusa, Spr. 
 
 Crotalaria ramosissima, Roxb. ; C. verrucosa, L. ; C. medicaginea, 
 Lam. ; C. Cunninghami, R. Br. ; C. incana, L. ; C. juncea, L ; C. 
 Mitchelli, Benth. ; C. retusa, L. ; C. linifolia, L. lil. 
 Bossiaea phylloclada, F. M. 
 Nematophyllum Hookeri, F. M. 
 Oxycladium semiseptatum, F. M. 
 Jacksonia ramosissima, Benth. ; J. dilatata, Benth. 
 Gompholobium stenophyllum, F. M. 
 
NOETH AUSTRALIAN FLORA. 115 
 
 Leptosema oxylobioides, F. M. 
 Sophora tomentosa, L. 
 
 Croton, sp. 
 
 Euphorbia chamaesyce, L. ; E. hypericifolia, L. ; E. deserticola, 
 F. M. ; E. sp. 
 
 Excoecaria Agallocha, W. ; E. sp. 
 Petalostigma quadriloculare, F M. 
 Adriana tomentosa, Gaudich. 
 Microstachys chamaelese, A. Juss. 
 Glochydion sp. 
 Melanthesa sp. 
 
 Phyllanthus Niruri, L. ; P. sp. 
 Flueggea melanthesioides, F. M. 
 Synostemon sp. 
 
 ChrysobalaneoR. 
 
 Parinaxium costatum, Bl. 
 
 Combretacem. 
 
 Macropteranthes montana, F. M. 
 
 Terminaliabursarina, F. M. ; T. platyptera, F. M. ; T. edulis, F. M. ; 
 oblongata, F. M. ; T. platypbylla, F, M. 
 
 Cnagrecs. 
 Jussiaea repens, L. ; J. villosa, Lam. 
 Ludwigia parviflora. Wall. 
 
 Haloragea. 
 
 Myriophyllum verrucosum, Lindl. ; M. dicoccum, F. M. 
 Haloragis glauca, Lindl. ; H. leptotheca, F. M. 
 
 Lythracece. 
 Lythnim Amhemicum, F. M. 
 Ameletia diandra, F. M. 
 
 Ammannia multiflora, Koxb. ; A. crinipes, F. M. 
 Sonneratia acida, L. fil. 
 Pemphis acidula, Forst. 
 
 Rhiz<^horece. 
 Bhizophora sp. 
 Ceriops sp. 
 Bruguiera sp. 
 
 Myrtacea. 
 Tryptomene ericaea, F, M. ; T. oligandra, F. M. 
 Calycothrix megaphylla, F. M. ; C. microphylla, A. Cunn. ; C. 
 brachychaeta, F. M. ; C. achaeta, F. M. ; C. arborescens, F. M. 
 Verticordia Cunninghami, Schauer. 
 Astartea intratropica, F. M. 
 Tristania rhytiphloia, F. M. 
 Melaleuca leucadendron, L. ; M. lasiandra, F. M. ; M. minutifolia, 
 
116 NORTH AUSTEALIAN FLOEA. 
 
 F. M. ; M. acacioides, F. M. ; M. symphyocarpa, F. M. ; M. bracteata, 
 F. M. 
 
 Eucalyptus rostrata, Schl. ; E. brevifolia, F. M. ; E. patellaris, F. M. ; 
 E. leptophleba, F. M. ; E. microtheca, F. M. ; E. tesselaris, F. M. ; 
 E. polycarpa, F. M. ; E. terminalis, F. M. ; E. dichromopbloia, F. M. ; 
 E. bicolor, All. Cunn. ; E. ptychocarpa, F. M. ; E. aurantiaca, F. M. ; 
 
 E. phoenicea, F. M. ; E. tectifica, F. M. ; E. latifolia, F. M. ; E. aspera, 
 
 F. M ; E. ferruginea, Schauer ; E. bigalerita, F. M. ; E. confertiflora, 
 Kipp. ; E. tetrodonta, F. M. 
 
 Schauer ; E. bigalerita, F. M. ; E. confertiflora, Kipp ; E. tetrodonta, 
 F. M. 
 
 Eugenia (Jambosa) eucalyptoides, F. M. 
 Fenzlia obtusa, Endl. 
 Barringtonia sp. 
 Careya sp. 
 
 Cucurbitaceoe. 
 
 Luffa graveolens, Roxb. ; L. leiocarpa, F. M. 
 Cucumis picrocarpa, F. M. ; C. jucunda, F. M. 
 Muckia scabrella, Am. 
 
 Fasstjloreie. 
 
 Modecca Australis, E. Br. 
 
 Umbelliferce. 
 
 Hydrocotyle Asiatica, L. ; H. grammatocarpa, F. M. 
 Didiscus glandulosus, F. M. 
 
 Loranthacece. 
 
 Viscum angulatum, Heyne. 
 
 Loranthus vitellinus, F, M. ; L. pendulus, Sieb ; L. Preissii, Miq. ; 
 L. exocarpi, Behr ; L. grandibracteus, F. M. ; L. insularum, A. Gray ; 
 L. sanguineus, F. M. 
 
 JRubiaceoe, 
 Spermacoce sp. 
 Pavetta Indica, L. 
 Pogonolobus reticulatus, F. M. 
 Morinda citrifolia, L. 
 Sarcocephalus, cordatus, Miq. 
 Dentella reprens, Forst. 
 Hedyotis sp. 
 
 Gardenia resinosa, F. M. ; G. edulis, F. M. 
 Guettarda speciosa, L, ; G. polyphragmoides, F. M. 
 Polyphragmon sericeum, Desf. 
 
 Thespidium basiflorum (Pluchea basiflora, F. M., Report on Plants 
 of Babb. Exped., p. 12). 
 
 Pluchea filifolia, F. M. ; P. tetranthera, F. M. ; P. ligulata, F. M. ; 
 P. odora, F. M. ; P. macrocephala, F. M. 
 
 Blumea Cunninghami, Cand. 
 
NOBTH AUSTRALIAN FLORA. 117 
 
 Vemonia cinerea, Less, 
 fxalotis tropica, F. M. ; C. scapigera, Hook. 
 Erigeron ambigwum, F. M. 
 Sphaeranthus glaber, Cand. ; S. hirtus, W. 
 Monenteles sphacelatus, Lab. ; M. spicatus, Lab. 
 • Wedelia sp. 
 
 Eclipta erecta, L., ; E. platyglossa, F. M. 
 
 Glossogyne tenuifolia, Cass. 
 
 Diodontium filifolium, F. M. 
 
 Flaveria Australasica, Hook. 
 
 Myriogyne minuta, Less. 
 
 Sphaeromorphgea petiolaris, Cand. 
 
 Chrj'socephalum apiculatum, Steetz. 
 
 Helichrysum lanuginosum, A. Cunn. ; H. bracteatum, "W. 
 
 Gnaphalium luteo-album, L. 
 
 Sonchus oleraceus, L. 
 
 Sti/lidea. 
 
 Stylidium jaoribundum, R. Br. ; S. alsinoides, R. Br. ; S. Floodii, 
 F. M. 
 
 Zobeliacea. 
 Lobilia dioica, R. Br. 
 
 Companulacea, 
 
 "Wahlenbergia gracilis, A. D. C. 
 
 Good€niace<B. 
 
 Goodenia bispida, R. Br. ; G. purpurescense, R. Br. ; G. Arm- 
 strongiana, Vriesc ; G. lamprosperma, F. M. ; G. mollis, R. Br. 
 Leschenaultia filiformis, R. Br. 
 Scaevola amblyantbera, F.M. 
 
 SapotecR. 
 
 Ebenacem. 
 
 Sersalisa sericea, R. Br. 
 
 Maba obovata, R. Br. 
 
 Jasminem. 
 Jasminum lineare, R. Br. ; J. sp. 
 
 Loganiacece, 
 Strychnos lucida, R. Br. 
 Mitreola oldenlandioides, Wall. 
 Mitrasacme constricta, F. M. ; M. elata, R. Br. 
 
 GentianeoB. 
 
 Villarsia crenata, F. M.; V. nymphseifolia, Fras. 
 Canscora diffusa, R. Br. 
 Erythraea Australis, R. Br. 
 
 Apocynea. 
 Balfouria saligna, R. Br. 
 Carissa lanceolata, R. Br. 
 
118 NOETH AUSTRALIAN FLORA. 
 
 Asclepiadeoe. 
 Cynoctonum sp. 
 Oxystelma carnosum, R. Br. 
 Gymnanthera nitida, R. Br. 
 Sarcostemma Australe, R. Br. 
 
 Bignoniaeeee. 
 .Spathodea filiformis, D. C. ; S. heterophylla, R. Br. 
 
 Sydrophylleoe. 
 Hydrolea Zeilanica, Vahl. 
 
 Convolvulaceoe. 
 
 Ipomoea gracilis, R. Br. ; I. denticulata, R. Br. ; I. incisa, R. Br. ; 
 I. flava, F. M. ; I. alata, R. Br.; I. hederacea, R. Br.; I. biflora, 
 R. Br. ; I. eriocarpa, R. Br. 
 
 Evolvulus linifolius, L. 
 
 Cressa Cretica, L. 
 
 Borragineoe, 
 
 HeKotaropium Coromandelianum, Retz ; H. arenarium, F. M. ; H. 
 Cnrassavicum, L. ; H. fasciculatum, R. Br. ; H. ventricosum, R. Br. 
 H. panieiilatum, R. Br. 
 
 Coldenia procumbens, L. 
 
 Triebodesma Zeilanicum, R. Br. 
 
 Cordia sp. 
 
 Solanaceoe, 
 
 Physalis parviflora, R. Br. 
 Nicotiana euaveolens, Lebm. 
 Datura alba, Nees. 
 
 Solanura quadriloculare, F. M ; S. bifiorum, R. Br. ; S. corduiforme, 
 F. M. ; S. melanospermum, F. M. ; S. ecbinatum, R. Br. 
 
 Scrophularincs. 
 
 Bucbnera curviflora, R. Br. ; B. asperata, R. Br. 
 
 Vendellia subulata, Benth. 
 
 Mimulus Uvedaliae, R. Br. ; M. debilis, F. M. 
 
 Microcarpaea muscosa, R. Br. 
 
 Limnopbila gratioloides, R. Br. 
 
 Gratiola ep. 
 
 Morgania floribunda, Bentb. 
 
 Scoparia dulsis, L. 
 
 Stemodia sp. 
 
 AcanihacecB. 
 
 Ruellia Australis, R. Br. 
 Eranthemum variabile, R. Br. 
 Rostellularia procumbens, Nees. 
 Hygropbila angustifolia, R. Br. 
 Nelsonia campestris, R. Br. 
 
NORTH AUSTRALIAN FLORA. 119 
 
 Lentibularince. 
 Utricularia exsoleta, E. Br. ; TJ. stellaris, L. fil. 
 
 PrimulaccB. 
 Micropyxis pumila, Duty. 
 
 Fedalinece. 
 Josephinia Eugeniae, F. M. ; J. imperatricis, Vent. 
 
 MyoporinoR. 
 Myopornm sp. 
 
 Eremophila bignoniflora, F. M. ; E. maculata, F. M. ; E. Latrobeli, 
 F. M. ; E. MitcheUi, Benth. 
 
 VerhenacecB. 
 Avicennia ofiScinalis, L. 
 
 Clerodendron inerme, E,. Br. ; C. ovatum, R. Br. ; C. costatum, R. 
 Br. ; C. medium, R. Br. ; C. coriaceum, R. Br. 
 Vitex trifolia, L. ; V. acuminata, R. Br. 
 Premna acuminata, R. Br. 
 Newcastlia spodiotricha, F. M. 
 Denisonia ternifolia, F. M. 
 Callicarpa lanata, Vahl. 
 Lippia nodiflora, Kunth. 
 
 Labiata. 
 Teucrium argutum, R. Br. 
 Anisomeles sp. 
 Ocymum sp. 
 
 Plectranthus parviflorus, W. 
 Coleus scutellaroides, Benth. 
 
 Plumbagine(e. 
 
 Plumbago Zeilanica, L. 
 ^gialitis annulata, R. Br. 
 
 Nyctaginece. 
 
 Boerhaavia mutabilis, R. Br. 
 Pisonia aculeata, R. Br. 
 
 AmarantacecR. 
 
 Altemanthera denticulata, R. Br. ; A. angustifolia, R. Br. ; A. 
 nana, R. Br. 
 
 Trichinium nobile, Lindl. ; T. gracile, R. Br. 
 
 Gomphrena humilis, R. Br. ; G. flaccida, R. Br. ; G. canescens, 
 R. Br. 
 
 Ptilotus corymbosus, R. Br. 
 
 Achyranthes Australis, R. Br. 
 
 Euxolus rhombeus, Moq. 
 
 Salsolacea. 
 Salsola Australis, R. Br. 
 
120 NORTH AURTRALIAN FLORA. 
 
 Ehagodia linifolia, K. Br. 
 
 Chenopodium auricomum, Lindl. 
 
 Atriplex sp. 
 
 Aniscantha (Kentropsis) lanata, F. M. 
 
 Enchylsena tomentosa, E. Br. 
 
 Halocnemum sp. 
 
 Arthrocnemum sp. 
 
 Polygonece. 
 
 Polygonum, Cunninghami, Meisn ; P. Articulatum, E. Br. ; P. at- 
 tenuatum, E. Br. 
 
 Eumex limosus, F. M, 
 
 Laurineoe. 
 Cassytha sp. 
 Gyrocarpus sphenopterus, E. Br. 
 
 Proteacem. 
 
 Persoonia falcata, E. Br. 
 
 Grevillea Goodii, E. Br. ; G. Dryandri, E. Br. ; G. Chrysodendron, 
 E. Br. ; G. heliosperma, E. Br. ; G. refracta, E. Br. ; G. ceratophylla, 
 E. Br. ; G. mimosoides, E. Br. ; G. striata, E. Br. ; G. gibbosa, 
 
 E. Br. ; G. Wickhami, Meisn. ; G. agrifolia, All. Cunn. ; G. longiloba, 
 
 F. M. ; G. polystachya, E. Br. 
 
 flakea arborescens, E. Br. ; H. lorea, R. Br. ; H. purpurea, Hook. 
 Stenocarpus acacioides, F. M. 
 
 Tliymelece. 
 Pimelea sanguinea, F. M. 
 
 SantalaccK. 
 
 Santalum, lanceolatum, E. Br. 
 Exocarpus latifolia, E. Br. 
 
 Uticece. 
 
 Solenostigma strychnoides, Planch. 
 
 Sponia sp. 
 
 Ficus aspera, Forst. ; F. sp. 
 
 Casuarinece. 
 Casuarina equisetifolia, Forst. 
 
 Coniferce. 
 CaUitris verrucosa, E. Br. 
 
 Ephedrece. 
 Ephedra arborea, F. M. 
 
 Cycadeoe. 
 Cycas sp. 
 
 Hpdrocharidece. 
 Hydrilla dentata, Gasp. 
 
 Ottelia alismoides, Pers. ; 0. ovalifolia, F. M. 
 Blyxa octandra, Decaisne. 
 Vallisneria spiralis, L. 
 
NOETH AUSTRALIAN FLOEA. 121 
 
 AlismacecB. 
 Alisma ancanthocarpum, F. M. ; A oligococcum, F. M. 
 
 Najadece. 
 Najas minor, All. 
 
 Juncaginece. 
 
 Potamogeton crispus, L. ; P tenuicaulis, F. M. 
 Ouvirandra sp. 
 Apanogeton sp. 
 
 OrchidecB. 
 
 Cymbidium caniculatum, R. Br. 
 
 Philydrem. 
 Philydrum lanuginosum, Banks. 
 
 Etemodoraceoe. 
 Haemodorum ensifolium, F. M. 
 
 Amaryllidece. 
 Crinum venosum, E. Br. 
 
 Dioscoreacece. 
 Dioscorea sp. 
 
 Smilactn(B. 
 Smilax latifolia, R. Br. 
 
 Fontederiacea. 
 
 Limnostachys cyanea, F. M. 
 
 Liliacece. 
 
 Csesia lateriflora, R. Br. ; C. chlorantha, F. M. 
 
 Dianella rara, R. Br. 
 
 Xanthorrhoea sp. 
 
 Asparagus fasciculatus, R. Br. 
 
 Commelynece. 
 
 Commelyna agrostophylla, F. M. ; C. sp. 
 
 Aneilema sp. 
 
 Cartonema spicatum, R. Br. 
 
 TyphaeecB. 
 Typha sp. 
 
 LemnacecB. 
 Lemna minor, L. 
 
 Pandanece. 
 Pandanus spiralis, R. Br. ; P. aquaticus, F. M. 
 
 . . Falmce. 
 
 Livistona sp. 
 
122 NOBTH AUSTRALIAN FLOBA. 
 
 XyrideoR. 
 Xyris laevis, E. Br. ; X. paludosa, E. Br. 
 
 EriocaulecB. 
 
 Eriocaulon setaceum, L. ; E. concretum, F. M. ; E. spectabile, 
 F. M. 
 
 Restiacece. 
 Eestio tropicus, E. Br. 
 
 Cyperacea. 
 
 Cyperus uncinatus, E. Br. ; C. diffonnis, L. ; C. Holoschoenus, 
 E. Br. 
 
 Hypaelyptum microcephalum, E. Br. 
 
 K5'llingia sp, 
 
 Fuirena glomerata, Vahl. 
 
 Isolepis barbata, E. Br. 
 
 Heleocharis plantaginea, E. Br. ; H. capitata, E. Br. ; H. gracilis, 
 E. Br. 
 
 Fimbristylis pterygosperma, E. Br. ; F. tetragona, E. Br. ; F. 
 gracilis, R. Br. 
 
 Scirpns pliimosus, E. Br. 
 
 Scleria sp. 
 
 GraminecB. 
 
 Sporobolus Indicus, E. Br. 
 
 Perotis rara, E. Br. 
 
 Aristida stipoides, E, Br. ; A. calycina, E. Br. 
 
 Eragrostris Brownii, Kunth ; E. tenella, Beauv. ; E. sp. 
 
 Triodia pungens, E. Br. ^ 
 
 Arundo Phragmitis, L. 
 
 Eriachne sp. 
 
 Pappopborum commune, F. M. 
 
 Triraphis pungens, R. Br. ; T. mollis, E. Br. 
 
 Dactyloctenium ^gyptiacum, W. 
 
 Cynodon Dactylon, L. 
 
 Paspalum obiculare, Forst. 
 
 Panicum gracile, R. Br. ; P. decompositum, E. Br. ; P. Crus Galli, 
 L. ; P. semialatum, E. Br. ; P. papposum, E. Br. ; P. spinescens, 
 E. Br. 
 
 Setaria sp. 
 
 Lappago racemosa, W. 
 
 Antbistiria membranacea, Lindl. ; A. sp. 
 
 Andropogon triticeus, E. Br. ; A. pertusus, E. Br. ; A. bombycinus, 
 E. Br. ; A. elongatus, R. Br. 
 
 Saccharum fulvum, E. Br. 
 
 Xmperata arundinacea, Cyr. 
 
 Ischaemum triticeum, E. Br. ; T. sp. 
 
 Oryza sativa, L. 
 
 Notocblaena vellea, E. Br. 
 
 Filices. 
 
NORTH AUSTRALIAN FLOE A. 123 
 
 Nephrodium propinquum, R. Br. 
 Ceratopteris thalicroides, Brogn. 
 Platyzoma microphj'Uum, R. Br. 
 Lygodium microphyllum, R. Br. 
 
 Lycopodium cemuum, L. 
 
 Marsileacea. 
 Marsilea quadrifolia, L. 
 
 Charaece. 
 Clara gymnopitys, Al. Br. ; C. Ceylonica, W. 
 
 Musei. 
 Hypnum sp. 
 Bartramia sp. 
 
 Ziehenes. 
 Usnea barbata, Fr. 
 Parmelia parietina, Achar. 
 Lecideasp. 
 
 THE END. 
 
 JOHN H. BATTY, PKINTEK, 6, BED HON COURT, FLEET STREET, B.C. 
 
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 XVII. For Original Letters, Stories from Memory, &c. 
 XVIII. Sketch-Book for OutUne Maps. 
 t^Thefir't Hx, together vnth No. XIII., XVI., and XVII. are ready ; and the whole will be completed 
 within the year. 
 
 The main faults of modem small-hand writing are — 1. A wantof size and roundness in 
 the individual letters. 2. An overcrowding of both letters and words. Other defects 
 of minor significance are common ; such as, the more than necessary length of the 
 80-called long letters, &c. ; but if the letters are round and moderately large, and the 
 words well spaced, the writing cannot but be plain. So-styled " ladies' angular 
 hand," is now happily becoming rapidly unfashionable. Surely if angular writing 
 is bad for males, it is equally so for females ; the object of both being to write what 
 others shall easily read. 
 
 The special points in the Standard Copy-Books to which the editor invites the 
 attention of teachers are — 1. The absence of very large hand, which occupies 
 so prominent a place in most copy-books, talies up so much of the learner's time, 
 and after all is of very questionable utility. 2. Little has been given in the 
 way of guiding-lines or words to be traced ; which in excess tends only to retard 
 rather than advance the pupil. 3. Great care has been taken to secure good models 
 for imitation. It will be observed, that while the letters are elegant in form, they 
 are very plain, and destitute of all superfluous strokes or flourishes. 4. The copies 
 have been made as varied and as interesting as possible ; and chosen with a view to 
 their immediate application in every-day life. 6. Education by means of the eye, by 
 which progress in writing is mainly achieved, is amply provided for by at least one 
 dark copy-line being given on each page. The want of this is a serious drawback, in 
 the editor's opinion, to several of the otherwise excellent systems extant. 6. The 
 price has been kept as low as possible, in order to enable the poorest schools to take 
 advantage of the improvements offered in tlie Standard Copy-Books. 
 
 Numbers I. to XII. of the Series have specially to do with the art of learning to 
 write. The application of writing to the various uses for which it is ordinarily re- 
 quired is, to some extent, provided for in the Supplementary Books XIII. to XVIII. ; 
 but still more largely in the series of Writing-Exercise Books by the same 
 Editor, which are now so widely used. 
 
 WRITING-EXERCISE BOOKS. 
 
 New Edition, on demi-poat ttout Cream Laid Paper. 
 LAURIE'S STANDARD WRITING-EXERCISE BOOKS, for School or Home Use. With Hand- 
 books of the requisite Exercises in print and script. 
 
 BOOKS I. & II. (in one), 40 pp., with Hamd-book of 40 Lessons, 2^d. 
 
 BOOK III 60 „ „ 60 „ 4d. 
 
 IV 80 „ „ 80 „ 4id. 
 
 V 100 „ „ 100 „ 5d. 
 
 VI 128 „ „ 128 „ 6d. 
 
 40 pages of Book VI. are ruled expressly for the invoices given in the accompanying Hand-book. 
 The Hand-Books and Writing-Exercise Books may be had separately, as follows : — 
 Hand-books:— Books L & II., Id. Book IIL, lid. Book IV., 2d. Book V., 2id. Book VL, 3d. 
 Writing-Exekcisb Books :— Book L & II. , 2d. Book III., 3d. BookIV.,3id. BookV., 4d. Book VI., 4^(1. 
 
 g^ The Writing-Exercise Books can be had in Stiff Marble Covers at 6d. per doz. ext^ 
 " For a very few pence, here are the model exercise-books for young learners." — Sv/n. 
 " We recommend them not only to the notice of schools, but to those desirous of imnrovlng i 
 'Without the aid of tuiUon. "—i)iai. 
 
LAURIE'S MANUALS. 
 
 MI.-ARITHMETIC. 
 
 Laurie's "Standard" Manual of Arithmetic, Theoretical and Practical. Third 
 edition. 188 pp., 9d. ; cloth, Is. Also in Parts, adapted to the several Standards 
 of the Revised Code. 
 
 P.orts I. and II. (in one), 24 pp., Id., Simple Rules to Multiplication, with Tables, &c. 
 
 Part III., 24 pp.. Id., Simple Rules to Long Division. 
 
 P.ort IV., 24 pp.. Id., Compound Rules, with Tables, &c. 
 
 Paxt v., 32 pp., lid., Reduction, "Averages of Numbers," with Tables. 
 
 Part VI., 32 pp., lid , Bills or Accounts, Practice, Mensuration of Areas, with Aliquot Parts, 
 wages and per centage Tables. 
 
 Part VII., 48 pp., 2Jd., The Greatest Common Measure, The Least Common Multiple, Vulgar 
 Fractions, Decimal Fractions, Simple Proportion, Compound Proportion, Simple Interest, Compound 
 Interest, Discount, Stocks, Shares, &c., Application of the term " per cent.," Square Root, Cube 
 Root, Miscellaneous Exercises. 
 
 A Key ; containing Answers to all the Exercises in the Standard Manual of Arith- 
 metic. Price Is., cloth. 
 
 The Standard Arithmetic, with Key. (The two preceding works in one.) 
 284 pp., cloth, price Is. 6d. 
 
 The Standard Arithmetical Cards, containing 1,800 sums from Simple 
 Addition to Practice, on Six Cards. Price, per set, '3d. ; per doz., 6d. ; per gross, 
 6s. Key, 6d. 
 
 IV.-MANUAL OF PRACTICAL GEOGRAPHY. 
 
 160 pp., limp, 9d. ; cloth. Is. Also, in Parts, at 2d. each ; viz.— 
 
 Part I. The British Empire, including Dependencies. 
 Part II. Europe. 
 
 Pivrt III. Asia. — Africa. — Several useful Geographical Tables. 
 I'art IV. America and Oceania. 
 
 Part V. Sacred Geography. — Questions on all the preceding Parts. 
 " A compact little text-book for young readers — carefully arranged and thorough — not dry and repul- 
 sive, as short abstracts of knowledge usually are." — Examiner. 
 
 Ready, July 1st, Fcap., limp, Is., cloth lettered, Is. Gd. 
 
 V.-MANUAL OF ENGLISH HISTORY SIMPLIFIED; or, Our Country's Story. 
 
 This volume aims at giving, in simple and genial language, a plain and vivid de- 
 scription of the historical phases through which England has passed. It is divided 
 into Periods, as represented by the respective Lines that have occupied the throne ; 
 each chapter concludes with a set of pointed questions, and the work Is embellished at 
 the begiiming with a good engraving, and furnished with a detailed analysis of con- 
 tents, a complete and index, and table of Colonial acquisitions, with dates. 
 
 Beady, square 12 mo, tastefully bound and illustrated, price Is. 
 
 VI.-MANUAL OF PRACTICAL COMPOSITION; 
 
 (Being "Select Anecdotes" op Entertaining Library). 
 This is a collection of short, amusing anecdotes, the point or humour of which any 
 average youth is capable of readily grasping ; and the profession is invited to test its 
 pretensions as a material aid to the art of composition. The simple plan is, to read 
 an anecdote to the pupil, say twice, and then to require him to reproduce it either in 
 the original words or, better, in his own. He should be constrained by no rules, 
 further than to confine himself to short sentences. Another valuable exercise is, to 
 require the pupil to repeat one of the stories vivd voce. 
 
 Heady, July 1st, /cap., strong limp. Is., cloth lettered, Is. 6d. 
 
 VM.-MANUAL OF ENGLISH SPELLING. 
 
 Also in Sections at 2d. each (stiff boards), and in the following Parts of 64 pp. each, at4d. 
 
 Part I. Monosyllables. — Common Names. — Common Errors in Common Words. 
 Pai-t II. Words often confounded. — Rules for Spelling. — Grammatical Inflections. — Common 
 Errors in Speaking and Writing. 
 Part III. Etymology. — Synonymes. — Difficult Words.— Miscellaneous Exercises. 
 
 A 11 the later experiments in written examinations have brought the common de- 
 ficiencies in this branch of instruction into unexpected prominence ; and the only 
 efficient remedy for a blemish, that is often fatal to success in life, is afforded by such 
 an exhaustive and systematic course of exercises as the above volume contains. The 
 leading design has been, (1) to bring the chief practical difficulties of English spelling 
 within a reasonable compass, and to arrange them progressively in a set of rationally 
 assorted lessons, (2) to impress the words on the mind, either by giving their meaning 
 or showing their application in illustrative examples, and (3) to present facilities for 
 the reproduction of the whole in the form of special exercises. 
 
FIRST-CLASS READERS. 
 
 FOR COLLEGES AND MIDDLE-CLASS SCHOOLS, AND THE HIGHER CLASSES OF 
 PRIMARY SCHOOLS. 
 
 FIRST-CLASS READERS. 
 
 The object of these Readers is,— 
 
 let, to provide the higher classes of primary schools with the means of diversifying 
 the subjects of their reading-lessons ; 
 
 2nd, to furnish middle-class schoolswith alternative reading-books on special subjects ; 
 
 3rd, to supply reading-rooms and the general public with works on vitally impor- 
 tant subjects which the masses are deterred from studying on account of the practical 
 Inaccessibility of larger works. 
 
 Fcp. ^vo, cloth, gilt lettered, price Is. each. 
 
 VIII-8KETCHE8 OF THE ENGLISH CONSTITUTION. 
 
 Contains chapters on the Primary Principles of the English Constitution ; the Four 
 Elements of our Nation; Institutions of tlie British Celts, Anglo-Saxons, Danes and 
 Normans ; The Effects of the Norman Conquest ; View of the Feudal System ; Anglo- 
 Norman Royalty ; Magna Carta ; Analysis of its Clauses and Contirmations by 
 Edward I. and subsequent Kings ; Rise and Growth of the House of Commons ; The 
 Aggressions of Charles I. on the Constitution— The Petition of Right ; The Restoration 
 — Habeas-Corpus Act; Revolution of 1G88— The Act of Settlenjent ; The King or 
 Queen Regnant ; The Peers ; The Representatives of the People ; Parliamentary 
 Government ; Personal Liberty ; The Law ; Trial by Jury. 
 
 " The view of the Constitution here given is as complete as can be made in so small a compass. The 
 book is very readable, and its utility will extend far beyond the bchool-room." — AtheTicBum. 
 
 IX-8KETCHE8 OF POLITICAL ECONOMY. 
 
 Contains chapters on Wealth— Money ; Economy ; Capital : Co-operation ; Division of 
 Labour ; Wages ; The Differences of Wages in' Different Employments ; The Work- 
 men of England as Contrasted with those of other Nations ; Rent of Land ; Free 
 Trade ; Credit ; Cost of Production ; Taxation ; Taxes on Luxuries ; The Land-tax ; 
 Tithes ; Poor Rates ; Combination— Strikes ; Combination— Lock-outs. 
 " Admirable treatises on the Constitution, the law, and social polity." — Stain/ord Mercury. 
 
 X.-A 8H0RT HI8T0RY OF ENGLISH LITERATURE 
 
 From the Earliest Times to the Present Day, with Illustrative Examples. In 2 Vols., 
 Is. ed. each. By Thomas Arnold, B. A. [Ready, Vol I. ; Vol. IT. in the Press. 
 
 The object of this work is twofold,— 1st. to furnish the English student at a cost 
 much below that of ordinary manuals, with a rational account of the manner in 
 which our literature was gradually developed from its rude early forms in the four- 
 teenth century to its present proportions ; '2nd, to provide him with a carefully chosen 
 series of illustrative extracts from all our best writers, taken in liistorical order, both 
 in verse and prose. The more detailed examination of the subject naturally com- 
 mences with the writings of Chaucer and other celebrated Englishmen in the four- 
 teenth century. The chapters are headed, " Anglo-Saxon and Norman period," 
 " Early English Literature," " The Revival of Learning," " The Elizabethan Age," 
 " The Crisis," " Re-action," " Whig Rule," " Tory Rule," " The Nineteenth Century." 
 Each chapter is followed by a collection of extracts belonging to the corresponding 
 period. 
 
 " A mostadmirable comi)endium. It is wonderful with what art Mr. Arnold baa contrived to put away 
 ■o much information in so little a casket." — London Review. 
 
 Second Edition, /cap. 8vo, cloth, strongly bmind, price 3s. 
 
 XI.-DE VIRI8 ILLUSTRIBU8 URBI8 ROM/E; 
 
 Beikg a Latin Reading-Book, with Notes and Vocabtjlart. 
 " De Viris Illustribus" contains a chronologically arranged and connected series of 
 graphic tableaux of Roman History, framed on the model of the " Lives," of " Corne- 
 lius Nepos." The pieces are adapted, as regards both subject-matter and language, to 
 the earlier stages of Latin reading, and drawn from precisely the same sources as 
 those to which the student is accustomed, at a later period, to betake himself. The 
 more interesting events of the grand epochs of the territorial enlargement and 
 political growth of Rome are grouped around the men who played a prominent part in 
 public affairs, from the foundation of the city to the death of Augustus. The work, 
 therefore, embraces accounts of the Equian and Volscian wars ; Gallic invasion ; 
 Samnite and Epirote wars ; Punic wars ; Macedonian, Spanish, and Servile wars ; 
 tbe Cimbriau, Social, Mithridatio, aud later Civil wars, in simple and idiomatic Latin. 
 
LATTRIE'S SHILLINa ENTERTAINING LIBRARY. 
 
 BniUbU for Bewards for passing «he B.C. Examination, and adapted to the Bequlrements of 
 School Libraries, Families, and Working Men :— 
 
 XII.-THE SHILLING ENTERTAINING LIBRARY. 
 
 Illustrated with full-page Illustrations, by first-rate artists, 
 and tastefully bound. 
 
 " What sort of reading the young fancy finds most pleasurable and most wholesome, 
 Mr. J. S. Laurie evidently knows. His Entertaining Library comprises books of the 
 sort that the young can enjoy. Mr. Laurie hauls down the black flag of instruction, 
 and flies only gay bunting at his mast. Above aU things, he means to cater for the 
 entertainment of young readers, and he claims, very prudently, full liberty to 
 abridge and simplify, wherever by so doing he can secure for the child a swifter, 
 easier, and pleasanter course to a tale. What the child, in fact, if it be not stupid, 
 skips, Mr. Laurie will not print ; and, of course, the volumes contain nothing that 
 it is better a child should not read. Cheap enough for all homes, good enough for 
 the most luxurious, these little shilling books should find their way wherever there are 
 children who have learnt to read, and supersede the hashes of spoilt knowledge that 
 are foisted on the young, to trap them into learning lessons, and hearing goodj' 
 advice, when their minds, which thrive by pure recreation as much as their bodies, 
 have come out to ^\ay."— Examiner. 
 
 " The illustrations have a grim power and a quaint humour, which are worthy of 
 some of the best German sketches."— Patriot. 
 
 The following ten volumes are now on sale :— 
 
 1. Robinson Crusoe.— "In a haudsome new dress, and beautifully illustrated."— A'or<A SritUh Mail. 
 
 2. Christmas Tales. — " They are all good tales, written iu simple, nervous language, and varied in 
 their subjects — grave, gay, lively, and severe." 
 
 3. History of the Plague.—" Perhaps next to his ' Robinson Crusoe' 'De Foe's History of the Plague 
 of 166.5 ' is one of the best works the Editor could have chosen for his special purpose of arresting the 
 reader's attention by exciting his interest. As a realistic picture of the time, rep:ete with the terribly 
 pictui-esque, it has never been surpassed." — London Review. 
 
 4. Gulliver's Travels.— "Purgedfrom aU objectionable passages, and illustrated with six first-class full- 
 page engravings." 
 
 5. Sandford and Merton. — " Of course this is an abridgment, but it is all the better for being so. 
 Dear old ' Sandford and Merton ' seems shockingly tame to boys if read in its quiet, prosy fulness ; but 
 an abridgment may, and this one does, enchain and preserve their interested attention, by giving incidents 
 and their lessons without all the didactics of the original." — Nonconformist. 
 
 6. Evenings at Home.—" We doubt whether any prettier edition of this dear old book was ever 
 printed than this one." — Sun. 
 
 7. The Swiss Family Robinson.-" This work is at length presented to the public (for the first time} 
 in a form so revised and corrected as, it is presumed, the author himself would have adopted had he re- 
 written the whole in the light of the present day."— Sun. 
 
 8. Select Anecdotes. — " Will surely supply an agreeable and innocent recreation in moments of leisure 
 or languor. It is iuftnitely amusing." — Nonconformist. 
 
 9. Pilgrim's Progress. — " Like its companion volumes, it is characterized by its excellent print, good 
 illustrations, and strong, serviceable binding." — Public Opinion. 
 
 10. Vicar of Wakefield.-" School libraries will be incomplete without this admirable set of entertain- 
 ing books." — Papers for the Schoolmaster. 
 
 "Charming little Shilling Library of English Classics."— Sim. 
 ♦'Excellent series."- yjeoder. 
 
 Fcp. 8vo., bevelled boards, gilt, 5s.; roan, 3s. 6d. 
 
 F J^ l:iT CD 1^ T.A.I-.BS. 
 
 FROM THE QERHAN. 
 
 Splendidly illustrated with ten ftill-page Illustrations. 
 ' It is imjwssible to help believing in these tales — a sure sign that they are well told." — Athejusum. 
 ' Among works of this class we award the prize of the season to ' Fancy Tales.' " — Saturday Heviet*. 
 
 Sixty-four pages, royal l6mo. Second Edition, jn-ice Is. limp, and 
 Is. 6d. cloth extra. 
 
 RHYMES, JINGLES, AND SONGS FOR NURSERIES AND INFANT SCHOOLS, 
 
 WITH MUSIC FOR VOICE AND PIANO. 
 
 Edited by J. S. Laurie ; the Music by Thomas Murby, author of " New 
 Tunes to Choice Words," " Musical Student's Manual," &c. 
 
 " We can hardly name one of Mr. Laurie's useful publications in which he seems to us to have done 
 better service to the cause of elementary education than in this one, which is so well calculated to excite 
 the young imagination and develop the affections. Mr. Murby, also, has done his part well, not only in 
 preserving many traditional airs, but iu adapting and composing others which are at once harmonious 
 and appropriate."— if u»»Mm. 
 
THIS BOOK IS DUE ON THE LAST DATE 
 STAMPED BELOW 
 
 AN INITIAL FINE OP 25 CENTS 
 
 WILL BE ASSESSED FOR FAILURE TO RETURN 
 THIS BOOK ON THE DATE DUE. THE PENALTY 
 WILL INCREASE TO SO CENTS ON THE FOURTH 
 DAY AND TO $1.00 ON THE SEVENTH DAY 
 OVERDUE. 
 
 OhC 6 1937 
 
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