Gloucester Cathedral The Very Rev. Dean Spence R d by . Railton LIBRARY THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA SANTA BARBARA PRESENTED BY MISS PEARL CHASE / l ' s C- Gloucester Cathedral Gloucester Cathedral "By The Very Rev. H. D. M. Spence, D.P. Dean of Gloucester Illustrated by Herbert Rail ton London : Isbister fcf Co. Ltd. 15 ff 1 6 Tavistock Street Covent Garden MDCCCXCVII Gloucester Cathedral A STRANGER gazing on the solemn beauty of Gloucester Cathedral, who knew nothing previously of its story, would hesitate before he called it a great Norman church. The lordly Perpendicular tower, if less vast than the mighty mid-tower of Lincoln that grandest of our English towers is certainly more graceful. The long line of Decorated windows looking into the college green, the huge choir window, the matchless Lady Chapel at the east end telling of the closing year of the fifteenth century all these prominent features would indicate rather a Perpendicular and Decor- ated than a Norman pile. 9 Gloucester Cathedral Only, when the stranger began to look more closely into the details of the exterior of the great church, he would see signs of an older school of thought. When he examined the coronet of chapels surrounding the soaring choir, or marked the tall towers flanking the transept, "Surely," he would say, "the Norman builders have done these." But he would hesitate before pronouncing it a Norman church till he passed through the south porch, the principal entrance. Let us accompany him there. The porch itself is of Perpendicular architecture, rich with panelled tracery and sculptured figures. The great doors of the church are remark- able, much older evidently than the elaborate stone framework in which they are set. These doors are noble examples of Norman wood and iron work, coloured with that delicate and tender hue which only many centuries of use can give. The doors of the south porch rank high among the very ancient doors of England. Gloucester Cathedral The first impression of the nave changes all earlier thoughts of the age of the building. It is unmistakably Norman, grand beyond expression, but cold, severe, and deathly white. The stained glass (mostly modern) of the Norman and Decorated windows fails to supply the evident lack of colour. There was a time when lines of blue and scarlet and gold relieved the white vaulted roof, when altars agleam with colour and pale flickering lights gave light and bright- ness to the chill whiteness of this vast and mighty colonnade. On Sunday evenings, when the nave is filled with worshippers, and the bright searching daylight is replaced by the yellow gleam of the little tongues of fire above the great and massive arches, the want of colour is little felt, and the noble and severe beauty of the matchless Norman work in the great nave strikes the beholder. The nave of Gloucester, to be loved and admired as it deserves, and as it appeared to men in the days of the Plantagenet kings, 13 Gloucester Cathedral must be seen in one of the many crowded evening services. Save that the altars with their wealth of colour and light are gone, and the lines of colouring and the glint of gold of the Norman wooden ceiling find no place on the stone-vaulted roof above, and the south aisle Norman windows are replaced with exquisite Decorated work of the time of the second Edward, there is no great structural change since the day at the close of the eleventh century when Abbot Fulda from Shrewsbury preached his famous sermon to the Gloucester folk, the sermon in which he foretold the death of the imperious and cruel Rufus in words so plain, so unmis- takable, that Abbot Serlo of Gloucester, who loved the great wicked king in spite of his many sins, was alarmed, and at once sent to warn his master, but in vain. Rufus dis- regarded the Gloucester note of alarm, and a few hours later the news of the King of England's bloody death, in the leafy glades 14 Gloucester Cathedral of the New Forest, rang through Normandy and England. Yes, it is the same nave, only colder and whiter, on which Anselm, the saintly arch- bishop, and Rufus gazed ; the same avenue of massy pillars then scarcely finished through which Maud the Empress often went to her prayers with her chivalrous half- brother, Earl Robert. Beauclerc, her father, too, and some grey-haired survivors of Hastings must have looked on these huge columns crowned with the round arches which excite our wonder to-day. They were a curious fancy of the architect of Serlo ; or was it not probably a design of a yet older artist of King Edward the Confessor ? These enormous round shafts, which are the peculiar feature of the nave of our storied Abbey, have only once been repeated, probably by the same architect, in the neighbouring abbey of Tewkesbury, a few years later. There is nothing like them on either side of the silver streak of sea. The Tewkesbury 17 Gloucester Cathedral copies are slightly smaller ; otherwise they are exact reproductions of Gloucester. A solid and rather ugly stone screen closes the east end of the Norman nave. You pass through a small arch in the screen, and so beneath the broad platform on which the great organ stands. Once a huge rood cross, or rather crucifix, filled up the space now occupied by the organ. The vista has not gained by the substitution ; you stand now in another world of thought. The Norman and Romanesque conception is replaced by a creation of two hundred and more years later. The choir on which you are now looking is very long not too long, however, for its great height for the fretted roof, a delicate mosaic of tender 'colours set in pale gold, soars high above the vaulting of the nave. The proportions are simply admirable. From the lofty traceried roof down to the elaborately tiled floor, the walls are covered with richly carved panelled work, broken here and there 18 Gloucester Cathedral with delicate screens of stone. The eastern end, hard by the high altar, is the home of several shrines, of which more anon. There is happily no lack of colour in this part of our Cathedral. The western end is furnished with sixty richly-carved canopied stalls of dark oak, mostly the handiwork of the fourteenth century. The curiously and ela- borately fretted work of the roof we have already spoken of as a rich mosaic of gold and colours. The floor, if one dare breathe a criticism in this charmed building, is too bright and glistening, but it is in its way varied and beautiful. The carving of the reredos, a work of our own day, is to the writer's mind open to criticism, but is still very fair, telling in every detail of loving work and true reverence. The whole of this, the loveliest choir in England, is lit by a mighty wall of jewelled glass behind the great golden reredos. This vast east window which floods the choir of Gloucester, beautiful as a dream, with Gloucester Cathedral its soft silvery light faintly coloured with jewelled shafts of the richest blue and red and here and there a vein of pale gold this vast window could not have been seen out of England, or at least one of the grey and misty northern countries, where gleams of light or shafts of sunshine are exceedingly precious. In south or central Europe the effect of such a mighty window would be simply dazzling to the eye, would be painful from its excess of light. The master architect, who, it seems, in the Gloucester cloister cells devised the aery fabric of the choir, knew how needful light was to reveal the loveliness of the panelled walls, that delicate veil of stone tracery. He had seen doubtless how the brightness of southern skies through comparatively little windows had illuminated the abbey churches of southern Germany, of Provence, Italy, and Spain, with bright shafts of light, but he well knew that the pale blue of the skies of the Severn lands was very dim Gloucester Cathedral and lightless compared with the surpassing brilliancy of their heavens. Hence we explain the love of the English artist-monks for large windows. They would build their minsters, they would enrich them with curious fancies in stone and marble, they would furnish them with altars gleam- ing with dusky gold and ablaze with many colours, and to illumine these, they would admit all the light they could draw from skies which were rarely of unclouded blue, which were, indeed, wellnigh always veiled with the soft grey hues of our island atmosphere. Never, as they planned their vast yet graceful windows, w r as there any danger of over-much light in their minster ; there was no fear of the eyes being dazzled with excess of sunshine from English skies. This great east window is the largest painted window in England the largest, the writer believes, in Europe. Its stone-work exceeds in size the magnificent east window of York Minster, which stands next to it. 23 Gloucester Cathedral The respective measurements are, Gloucester, 72 feet high by 38 wide, York, 78 by 33 feet. The lower part of the centre com- partments at Gloucester are not completely glazed, owing to the opening into the Lady Chapel. The glass of Gloucester is on the whole light-coloured, the designers being evidently anxious that the beautiful stone panels and screen work should be seen in all their exquisite details. The glass has suffered marvellously little from the ravages of weather and the fanaticism of revolutionary times ; the busy restorer, too, has dealt gently with it. There are 49 figures, and of these 37 are pronounced by our lynx-eyed experts to be absolutely genuine. Of the 18 armorial shields in the lower lights 13 are certainly the identical shields inserted by the survivors of Cressy. The whole of the gorgeous canopy work has been untouched. The subject of the paintings is the Coro- nation of the Virgin, and the figures consist of winged angels, apostles, saints, kings, and 24 :4 Gloucester Cathedral abbots. The coats of arms are those borne by King Edward III., the Black Prince, and their knightly companions, such as the Lords of Berkeley, Arundel, Pembroke, Warwick, Northampton, Talbot, and others who took part in the famous campaign in which occurred the battle of Cressy, and who in some degrees were connected with Gloucestershire. The window 7 was in fact a memorial of the great English victory, and may fairly be termed the " Cressy " window. While the stonework of this beautiful structure is of fully-developed Perpendicular, most curiously, all the details of the glass are pure Decorated. The Perpendicular work in the choir was finished before A.D. 1350, and accordingly is a very early instance of this style ; our window, therefore, demon- strates that the development of the Perpen- dicular style took place at an earlier period among masons than it did among the crafts- men in stained glass. The general scheme of colour is extremely 27 Gloucester Cathedral delicate and beautiful. Pot metal and flashed ruby are only used for backgrounds, the whole of the figures and their canopies being in pearly white glass, with the drawing of the faces, drapery, and similar details in brown enamel, and some enrichments in silver stain varying from a lemon yellow to a deep orange. The drawing of draperies and of some of the faces, not a few, alas ! now sadly worn and scarred, is specially vigorous and effective. Extraordinary delicacy and precision of touch are to be seen in every line drawn by the glass painters of this window. In point of firmness and grace, one of our great critics in Greek art told me the work here reminded him of the drawing on the best painted vases of the Greeks. The white glass is of special beauty, when compared with that of modern times. Its luminous pearly look comes from the fact that the body of the glass is full of minute air bubbles, each of which catches the light, and then reflects it out from the interior of 28 Gloucester Cathedral the glass, so that the glass is not only translucent, but is itself actually luminous with innumerable minute centres of radia- tion. The story of the gorgeous choir of Gloucester is a singular one. It seems as though the monks of Gloucester had long dreamed of beautifying and enriching their stern plain Norman church. Thoky, abbot in the days of Edward II., in the early years of the fourteenth century, evidently a great architect, perhaps began this scheme of ornamentation. The result of his labours is with us still. The stately Decorated windows which light the southern aisle are his. Men come from far to see his curiously beautiful work. Only a few days ago the most renowned of our living architects, who had seen these windows again and again, called my attention once more to their exceeding beauty. Abbot Thoky, however, had but slender means at his disposal, and his task in the south aisle took long years before it was 29 Gloucester Cathedral finished. He was then an old man, but a strange incident, which had a great effect upon the fortunes of Gloucester, occurred just before the close of this blameless abbot's life. When Edward II. lay murdered in Berkeley Castle, some seventeen miles from Gloucester, the neighbouring religious houses of Bristol, Kingswood, and Malmesbury, dreading the vengeance of the dead king's widow Isabella, who had done her husband to death, de- clined to grant a sepulchre to the remains of the unhappy monarch. The brave old man who ruled in Gloucester had a stouter heart than the disloyal and time-serving abbots of these houses, and, caring nought for the anger of Isabella, Thoky boldly sent to Berkeley Castle and begged that the body of Edward might be laid to rest in his holy house of Gloucester. His prayer was granted, and, with all respect and honour, the dead king was buried in the Abbey church. 30 Gloucester Cathedral A few months later the wheel of fortune turned. Isabella was a captive. The mur- dered king's son, the third Edward, was tirmly seated on the throne, and all honour was paid the brave and loyal Churchman who had given Christian burial to the dis- credited remains of the murdered Edward II. A stately tomb was erected by the new king, and, strange to relate, a stream of pilgrims to the royal tomb began to throng the old Norman minster. It was a strange cult this of the murdered sovereign, and one hard to explain. It seems as though men in England felt that a curse lay on them, and on their homes and hearths, owing to their having suffered the Lord's anointed to be cruelly done to death in their midst. So thousands came and prayed at the dead king's shrine. Their offerings enriched the Abbey coffers. Soon there was wealth enough, says the tradition, to have rebuilt the whole church from its very foundations. At all events, the desire 33 Gloucester Cathedral of the monks to adorn their ancient home with new work could now be gratified. There is no doubt but that there existed among the Gloucester monks what we should now call a school of architecture. In this holy house undoubtedly was devised that favourite English form of Gothic usually known as Perpendicular. From the same school at Gloucester, too, issued later that beautiful form of vaulted roofs known as Fan-vaulting. When the stream of wealth began to flow in from the countless pilgrims to the tomb, Thoky was a very old man, too old to guide the new works he so earnestly desired to see completed, so he resigned the abbot's chair, and his friend Wygmore was chosen in his room. Wygmore determined not to pull down but to remodel the whole of the great east limb of the Abbey. He commenced in the south transept, and then proceeded with the choir. Roughly speak- ing, three great changes were carried out in the old buildings. The small Norman win- 34 Gloucester Cathedral dows were replaced with vast Perpendicular ones. The mighty wall of stained glass at the east end of the choir, with its delicate tracery, was the crowning piece of this work. The roofs were stripped off, and the walls raised to a much greater height, and a new and elaborately carved stone vaulted ceiling covered the new work. Wygmore and his school loved a soaring choir. Over the old Norman wall, over the massive rounded piers, over the low-browed round arches crowning the great piers, Wygmore so to speak flung a mighty stone veil of traceried panel-work. This is perhaps the best image to use when we speak of the strange transformation which the walls of the splendid choir of Gloucester underwent. Some call the " white stone veil " tossed over the old Norman wall and arches and piers "applique work," others speak of it as a "veneer," others as though the new panels and pointed arches were nailed upon the old walls ; but the " veil of stone " is the 35 c Gloucester Cathedral best and most vivid figure to employ. The south transept, with its great windows, its panel-work covering the whole surface of the Norman walls, its graceful open screens, is regarded as the birthplace of the Perpen- dicular architecture. Nor is it an improbable thought which ascribes the peculiar features of this specially English form of Gothic to the special exigences of the work carried out by Wygmore and his successor, Abbot Horton. The panelling and tracery devised in the new work had to be carved on the old Norman walls and arches and pillars, and straight lines peculiarly adapted themselves to this service. The five principal historic tombs of Gloucester are in the choir. Three are on the right hand of the high altar, one is in the centre below the altar steps, and one on the left side, raised on a Perpendicular bracket of unusual workmanship. The canopied tomb, in the place of honour by the altar, is, as is usual, the resting-place of the founder 36 King Osric's Tomb Gloucester Cathedral of the Abbey, Osric the Woden-descended, the near kinsman of Penda and Ethelred, the Mercian kings. To this Osric belongs the high honour of having re-introduced Christianity into Gloucestershire and the neighbouring counties. Intrusted with the government of these districts occupied by a West-Saxon people named the Hwiccii, Osric, about the year 68 1, displayed an extraordinary zeal in restoring the Christian religion. The West-Saxon invaders, under Ceawlin, about a hundred years before had swept away the Roman-British inhabitants, their cities, and their faith. This Osric, among other early foundations, built the first church and religious house at Gloucester. He subsequently became King of Northumbria, and, dying in A.D. 729, desired to be laid to rest in the Abbey he had established. Through the varying for- tunes of the monastery the remains of the founder were carefully preserved, although the place of their sepulchre was changed 39 Gloucester Cathedral more than once as the Abbey was built and rebuilt. Guided by the words of Leland, the secre- tary of King Henry VIII., the writer of this study opened the founder's tomb, which was universally considered to be a mere cenotaph or memorial, and found the grey dust and bones of the ancient king in the spot indi- cated by Leland, in a coffin contained in the stone loculus by the high altar. The second of the choir tombs is in a line with that of Osric. It is a monument of rare beauty, with a singularly graceful Decorated canopy shadowing the noble alabaster effigy of the murdered Edward II. The beautiful face of the recumbent king was carved from a mask taken after death. Some thirty years ago doubts were entertained respecting the real place of sepulture of the unhappy Ed- ward. Canon Jeune, afterwards Bishop of Peterborough, opened the paved floor hard by the slab on which the royal effigy rests, and found the enormous oaken chest which 40 ^wmm^dmmm $}*'&/: fiMiiliN. ' Gloucester Cathedral contained the body of the king. The corpse, doubtless embalmed, was carefully enveloped in folds of lead wrapped round and round. Many fragments of tarnished tinsel, the sad remains of the hasty lying-in-state arranged by Abbot Thoky, still adhered to the lead wrappings. The third is the chapel tomb of Malvern, the last Abbot of Gloucester. The little chantry is filled with quaint religious devices and armorial bearings. He was offered the See of Gloucester by Henry VIII., but refused all gifts at the hands of the spoiler of his loved Abbey, and died soon after the surrender of his monastery. In the centre of the choir pavement lies Robert Courthose, the Conqueror's eldest son, who expiated a wild and dissolute youth by his splendid deeds of gallantry and daring in the Great Crusade. In the famous holy war men said round the point of his lance ever played an unearthly fire. But his faults were sorely punished by his long captivity at Cardiff, lasting twenty weary years. He chose 43 Gloucester Cathedral Gloucester Abbey as his last resting-place. The bracket tomb on the left, Leland tells us, marks the grave of Serlo, chaplain to the Conqueror, the first famous Norman abbot, who built the mighty nave, and to whose wise rule the house owed all its later fame. Besides these renowned historic tombs there are many more monuments and slabs of marble and stone commemorating saintly abbots, knights, dames, doughty citizens, bishops who have lived since Henry VIII.'s day, judges, men of war, and others who, in the long line of centuries, have been judged worthy of a grave and memorial in the great Abbey. The Lady Chapel of Gloucester Cathedral ranks high, if it does not stand first, among the Mary Chapels of England. It was only finished a few years before the Reformation. Its exquisite charm, which rough fanaticism and careless neglect have failed to spoil, tells us that the hand and brain of the monk-artist at the moment of 44 Gloucester Cathedral his " passing " had not lost their cunning. Sadly disfigured, mutilated, defaced by the hands of Cromwell's rough soldiers, it seems in its pathetic scarred beauty, in its sweet, almost feminine loveliness to appeal more directly to the imagination than any other of the more stately portions of the proud church of the Severn lands. In my frequent wanderings through my loved Cathedral I hear more exclamations of wondering admir- ation uttered in the fair wreck of the exquisite Mary Chapel even than in the matchless choir. We are with infinite pains repairing the extensive ravages caused by the neglect of years, and in a comparatively short space of time this last fair effort of the sublime skill and perfect taste of the monk-architect will be once more devoted to praise and prayer. Many have longed to restore the exquisite interior to something of its old dream-like loveliness. If what we long for so intensely should ever come to pass, then will Gloucester boast a triple glory the 47 Gloucester Cathedral stern and stately nave of Serlo, the Con- queror's chaplain, the gorgeous and magnifi- cent choir of Wygmore, that matchless monument to a murdered king of England, and the Lady Chapel, the last sublime effort of the unrivalled genius of the monastic Orders before they passed away. We must not forget that beneath the eastern division of the church there lies another house of God, popularly called the crypt, more properly the under-church. It has, as far as we know, never been used since 1541, the year of the dissolution of the Benedictine house. It is stripped of all its sacred furniture, it is denuded of all gold and colouring. Its only beauty consists in the picturesque grouping of its short massy columns and low-browed arches, and its weird light, the light which is neither clear nor dark. But its chief glory is its memories. No scholar in archaeology would date this ancient under-church later than the last ten or fifteen 4 8 Gloucester Cathedral years of the eleventh century. Not a few of us/ for reasons well and carefully thought out, consider it to have been the work of Edward the Confessor. Gloucester was one of his favourite residences. If the earlier and more probable date be assumed, then in these gloomy aisles have worshipped the Confessor king and his court, half Saxon, half Norman ; here on these worn flags, beneath these sombre arches, have knelt and prayed God- wine and Harold, Gurth and Leofwine, Eustace and Tostig, Aldyth and Edith, the men and women who live in the eloquent pages of Lord Lytton's charming romance of " Harold," and in the graver story of Mr. Freeman's ponderous but absorbing history. As the mighty church rose above the foundation stories of this solemn undercroft, twice have the massive arches bent beneath the weight laid upon them. Once in Norman days. Then the monk-builders strengthened the sinking work with a double row of low Norman pillars and strong double arches. Si D Gloucester Cathedral Once more in the days of the third Edward, when the Perpendicular builders of Abbot Wygmore raised the walls of the soaring choir, and roofed it in with that mighty ceiling of fretted masonry, called in the old Abbey chronicle the "magna volta," the crypt appeared to be in danger. To resist this new and enormous weight the monks built up on either side of the gloomy under- church two huge solid piers of stone. Their work was so well done that no sign of dangerous settlement has since appeared in this historic church of the Confessor, though nigh five centuries and a half have passed since the completion of the Perpendicular choir and of its " magna volta." Professor Freeman, whose memory still is green, not only in his own Oxford but in every country where English scholarship is valued, thus writes of what lies beneath the broad shadow of the superb house of God, the subject of this little study : "We cannot forget that here in Gloucester we have 52 Gloucester Cathedral monastic buildings of admirable merit, exter- nally far more preserved than it is usual to find them. At Gloucester we can see what a great Benedictine house was, far better than at Ely, or Norwich, or Peterborough. The cloister has no rival in its own class. ... Of the buildings on every side of the cloister the remains are neither few nor unimportant. The refectory of Abbot John de Fulda, the scene of royal feasting, has left fewer remains than any others, but enough survives to give some notion of the design. Beyond it lay the more distant buildings of the monastery, the stately lodging of the abbot beyond a little stream now hidden, the second cloister and the graceful ruins of the infirmary. We come back to the cloister to mark to the west the quarters of the prior and of his successor, the dean, showing us a stage of architecture of which we have no exact specimen in the minster itself. To the east we have the slype, the dormitory, now the library, above, and the building of the greatest im- 55 portance after the church itself, the chapter- house." One is tempted to linger among these buildings, some in ruins, some admirably preserved, with their many memories and their striking traditions, but we must pass on to the chapter-house. With the exception of the apse at the east end, which has been changed by the Perpendicular builders of the fourteenth century, this great hall is of pure Norman work. Its exact date is uncertain ; much of it is of the eleventh century. In this chamber William the Conqueror on several occasions wore his " crowned helm," and presided over his barons at the Christmas feast. It requires no vivid imagination to think of the mighty Norman who changed the whole course of the story of England sitting in this vast simple hall, little changed during the eight subsequent centuries, with his mighty men of war, the half-brothers Odo of Bayeux and Robert de Mortain, William 56 \ Gloucester Cathedral Fitzosborne, Roger de Montgommeri, Geof- frey de Mowbrai, Roger Bigod, Gimdulf of Rochester, the architect - bishop, and the trusted counsellor, Lanfranc of Canterbury. Household words with many of us ! On one occasion King William in this same storied room held deep speech with his Witan, and arranged for the compilation of Domesday Book. This chapter-house has indeed been the scene of many a memorable incident writ large in English history. The Commons sat here in the memorable Parliament of Gloucester under King Richard II. Beneath the floor of the chapter-house lie buried several of the great Norman nobles who stood high in William's confidence. On the west side are still the stains of the great fire which destroyed the original Norman cloister, which was probably entirely con- structed of wood. The cloister we see to-day is comparatively of late work, and dates only from the days of Gloucester Cathedral Edward III. and Richard II. It is the most lovely cloistered walk in England, perhaps in Europe, and its old beauty is little changed for the worse by the wear and tear of centuries. It is the earliest example known of fan-tracery vaulting ; and, as has been said, it is one of the titles to honour of the monk- architects of Gloucester that they first devised this exquisite and peculiarly English form of ceiling. Printed by BALLANTYNK, HANSON & Co. London & Edinburgh EnglUb Catbe^rata Each is. net, post free is. 2d. 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