Facts ana fancies -aDout- Kilmaoeonaia THE LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LOS ANGELES FACTS AND FANCIES LL\KED WITH FOLK-LORE ABOUT KILMAVEONAIG. Milne, Tannahill <* Methven, Prmterg, Perth. ^he New Reredos, A.D. 1912. The. Crucifix from Oher-Ammergan. The Altar Lights of Olive Wood carved in Jerusalem. Facts and Fancies Linked with Folk-Lore about Kilmaveonaig By Christopher I. K. Bowstead, M.A., Priest-in-charge, A.D. 1899-1912. Canon of St. Ninian's Cathedral. Rector of Holy Trinity. Pitlochrle, A.D. 1891-98. Publishers : R. GRANT & SON. EDINBURGH. ®o mp 3r£UotD-(!Lbnstiana in the Straths of the Garry, the Tummel, and the Tay, and to all who are seeking the Vision of the Holy Grail and the Blessing of Unity that will follow, even Life for Evermore. CONTENTS KlL-MA-VEON-AIG, 1 S. COLUMBA, 9 Benedictine Monasteries, A.D. llOO to 1300, 32 The Parish of Kilmaveonaig, 1275, 39 Kilmaveonaig Restored, A.D. 1591, 51 Kilmaveonaig under the Penal Laws, A.D. 1689-1792, 66 Kilmaveonaig Rebuilt, 87 839108 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS The New Reredos, A.D. 1912, " EccE Homo" Arch, loNA Cathedral and St. Oran's Chapel, One of the Sanctuary Crosses Kirkton of Lude, as it was A.D. 1893, The " BuiDHEAN," Bell from Dunkeld, Supposed Portrait of Rev. Duncan Stewart, Baptism from the Gaol of Stonehaven, Photo of Mason's Plan of a Restored Church, March 14, 1794, The South View, Drinking Cup used by the Jacobites, Memorial Ring of Robert Lyon, The Church, A.D. 1893. The Rev. Henry S. John Howard, LL.D., Christopher I. K. Bowstead, M.A., The North View of the Church, The Altar, An Etching of the Lude Gallery (East), The Font, A.D. 1900, and West Gallery. A.D. 1794 The Door of the New Porch, A.D. 1899, The Oratory in Dail-ant-Sagairt, The Church and Churchyard, A.D. 1899. The Altar Vessels, A.D. 1794 and 1898, South- West View of the Church, A.D. 1899, The Font, A.D. 1900, The East End, A.D. 1912, View of the Church and Lichgate, A.D. 1902, Dail-ant-Sagairt, A.D. 1906, Frontispiece 3 9 24 40 40 58 74 76 93 98 98 HI 115 115 115 118 118 121 121 123 128 129 130 131 132 133 134 vn. PREFACE KILMAVEONAIG stands about 400 yards off the public road near the Tilt Hotel, and about half-a-mile from the Blair- Atholl Station. The church has not a commanding exterior, but has a very interesting ancient history, and, moreover, as was said to me by a friendly Presbyterian, " a unique one " in that at the Revolution the Dis- established Church retained possession. This brought to birth my purpose which had stirred within me since I became Rector of Holy Trinity, Pit- lochrie, A.D. 1891, and was able to do something to carry on the work of restoration begun by my prede- cessor, the Rev. H. S. J. Howard, in 1866. The Rev. Mr. Robertson obtained a Register containing the Minutes of Meetings of The Episcopal Church in Perth (with the signature of Robert Lyon, who was executed at Penrith for following Prince Charlie). This Book has entries of Baptisms and Confirmations A.D. 1812- 1830, and many interesting details copied from the Lude papers, and when I found that Kilmaveonaig was a Parish of some importance as early as A.D. 1275, and that folklore connected the name of St. Adamnan — 9th Abbot of lona — with the name " Kilmaveonaig," I felt I had certain Facts to record which would form a sort of seed-plot of Fancies, attractive to the reader, if not al- ways accepted by the critical historian ; and further the desire has grown within me, not only to offer to the reader Facts and Fancies, but also to lead my fellow-Christians to study with me that Foundation Fact which will help Vlll. the aspirations, stirring within us to pray and work till we come to " Oneness of the Faith and of the full Knowledge of the Son of God," with regard to which we require Divine Inspiration ; and may the one Bell, dated A.D. 1627, which calls us to Service from its little turret, ever sound in our ears a Call to UNITY. I desire gratefully to acknowledge the kindness of those who from time to time supplied me with much information which has added to the interest of my book. Amongst many (I cannot remember all) I will mention Miss Morehead, Mr. Dixon, The Rev. M. Donald, Miss M'Inroy, Miss Keir, and last, but not least, Mr. Hugh Mitchell, who was ever ready to impart to me things new and old connected with the neighbourhood, which he for many years stored in his mind for the benefit of a gatherer of Facts and Fancies like myself. My indebtedness to various writers I acknowledge in the course of the book. I send forth my " wee bookie," to borrow an old Title, asking for the kindly criticism of those versed in Facts, and the forbearance of all my readers with my Fancies, when deemed too fanciful to be at all worthy of acceptance. Any profits from the sale of this book may be applied to the cost of a small window north of the Sanctuary. IX. PREFACE TO SECOND EDITION. The very kind welcome given to " Facts and Fancies," not only by personal friends and neighbours, but also by visitors to Kilmaveonaig, and even by the general public, has called for a new Edition. In this the only alterations made are a few necessary corrections, and the addition of a small paragraph which is concerned with the matter kindly supplied to me by Mr. Mitchell, of the Union Bank in Pitlochry. A kindly review in the Church Times suggested that I had travelled somewhat beyond the limits of my title. I agree that for the ordinary passer-by a simple history of the Church itself might be more useful, and I hope it may be possible shortly to bring out an abridged edition (at a smaller price) which \vill omit the less relevant matter. I have been very glad to gather from the few criticisms received, that my main Facts are not disputed, and that my Fancies are not deemed altogether fantastic. Chr. I. K. B. July, 1915, CHAPTER I. KIL-MA-VEON-AIG. VERY House of God that has been built, has a local history, more or less full of interest, but as ' Domus Dei,' it also is a witness to ' Rcgnum Dei,' a kingdom of God, calling for the loyal homage and service of those who have made their home around it for daily life and work and rest. In tracing the history of this Parish Church, I desire to take my readers back in thought, through all the troublous times of the Penal Laws, of the bitter conflict between the Cathohc Church and the Cove- nanters, between Episcopahans and Presbyterians, which ended in the Revolution A.D. 1689, and the recognition of the latter by the State— back to the 11th and 12th centuries, which were noted for the building of Churches and Benedictine Monasteries on the ruins of the Col- umban, also noted for the spread of education and civilisation and the submission to the Papal Power, — ^back to lona calling to mind Columba, Adamnan, and their fellows in frail coracles, carrying the Gospel of Eternal Life to the Picts and other warlike and rude inhabitants of our land — back to Britain before A.D. 410, when the legions of Rome, having sought but in vain to make their victory complete, evacuate their con- quered Province — and thus lastly to Rome, the mistress and proud conqueror of the nations round her, the in- heritor of the wealth of other nations that had waxed great and then had fallen a prey to nations strong in the vigour of youth. Let us pause and think on Rome and her Empire. Many miles eastward lies the Land promised to Abram, with Egypt to the South, where his seed were in bondage 2 FACTS & FANCIES ABOUT KILMAVEONAIG 400 years — ^the land conquered by Pompey and annexed to the Roman Empire about B.C. 100 — a startling fact and a great trial to the Faith of Israel. The Land of Promise contained within its borders the mountain on which Abram at God's behest offered up Isaac, — ^the mountain that became the seat of David's Kingdom, — the Moriah on which Solomon built the Temple for the offering of the divinely appointed Sacrifices, — the mountain that witnessed so many futile attacks of hostile nations which one after another passed away — that witnessed Israel led captive for their sins and then again restored in the Providence of God, Who remembered His mercy to Abram and his seed — ^this mount becomes the abode of a Roman Governor. What meaneth this ? Go back to Adam made in the image of God, i.e. Righteous, and therefore, possessing Prudence, Fortitude, and Temper- ance, virtues recognised by the heathen as making the true man. But when man, by disobedience, fell from original righteousness, antagonistic seeds are planted in God's World and the nations that spring therefrom will war with each other till victory remains ^\^th the Righteous One ; and every nation has become great according as it has built its City on righteousness, for " in every nation each individual fearing God and work- ing righteousness is accepted with him " (Acts xi.). Romulus, whether suckled by a wolf or by a human mother, is the reputed founder of a Nation that has been excelled by no other in the Gentile world for the purity of its religion and the righteousness of its laws ; at the zenith of her power she became corrupt in morals and untrue to her standard of justice, and mark here the mystery of God's good Providence ! He gives to man freewill ; He gives to man the imperium (the com- mand), but at the fall He promises the Seed Who was to make " Imperium in Imperio " (an Empire within an Empire), and thus when the governor sent by the Emperor " Ecce Homo' Jirch in the Latin Church in Jeniaalcin, Iniilt on the site of niate'x Pyaetoyium. KIL-MA-VEOX-AIG 3 does the foulest act of injustice the Morld has ever seen in dehvering up to death JESUS CHRIST to be crucified — when before Pilate passes the sentence, he says to the people (and surely to men of every age) " ECCE HOMO, ECCE REX" (Behold the Man, Behold your King), Rome co-operates unwittingly with the " determinate counsel and fore-knowledge of God," Who willed that by death His Only Begotten Son should redeem the World, — should be made Sin for us, — should as Sin- bearer " overcome him that had the Power of Death, i.e. the Devil," and — should " rise from the dead to ascend up far above all the Heaven that He might fill all things," and have " all authority over things in Heaven and on Earth." The reader may think this a long digression from the avowed purpose of this book, but I desire to show how Rome, by her terrible act of injustice in conjunction with the Jewish people, was instrumental in setting up in her midst " Regnum Dei," the Kingdom of God ; that this Kingdom would accomplish God's eternal purpose of building the Holy City that had the foundations, — the Society of men, " created after God in Righteousness and Holiness of Truth," that this Kingdom would there- fore offer to men of every race a government, under which all that man's upright heart thirsted for, should be en- joyed in Righteousness and Peace by all men, Jew and Gentile, rich and poor, bond and free, without partiality as set forth in Ps. Ixxii. Now, mark the growth of the Kingdom of God, sometimes silent, sometimes manifest to the World. JESUS, the crucified King, " is declared on the Third day to be the Son of God with power by the Resurrection from the dead " (Rom. i.), and about A.D. 34 He knit together His Elect into Union with Himself as His Mystical Body by the descent of God the HOLY SPIRIT at Pentecost ; and a few years later the flood of Roman invasions of Britain reached their height under Ajiricola 4 FACTS & FANCIES ABOUT KILMAVEONAIG A.D. 85, and little by little a network of Roman roads secured by strongholds spread over the land, and after the lapse of centuries, there are still being unearthed by casual workmen, villas and camps, and other Roman work. We drive upon the roads, we excavate ancient villas, and most notably, in our day are being excavated parts of the Roman Wall from Wallsend to Carlisle with its 70 camps, a mile apart, and numerous forts ; and the KING, in His Wisdom, had used the works of His rebel subjects to advance His Kingdom, while the persecution of the Christian Church results in its growth in the land. Joseph of Arimathaea is said to have come to Glastonbury, and if St. Paul only reached Spain, his companions at an early period reached our Britain ; but more than this, as time went on, Roman soldiers became Christians. In A.D. 316, three British Bishops went to the Council at Aries and some to the Council at Ariminum, A.D. 359, having their expenses defrayed, being unable to pay it out of their own purse. This shews that by the 4th century the Christian Church had taken root in the land. On the Roman Wall there are at least a few carved stones showing the Faith of a Chris- tian, and before the withdrawal of the Roman legions A.D. •410, there were many witnesses for Christ — (like St. Alban) faithful unto Death. But let us retrace our steps to Rome to see how the Kingdom of God was spreading in the centuries up to the sack of Rome by the barbarians A.D. 410. Let us bear in mind that the Christian is a Man inheriting all the virtues which made him like unto God, phis the Grace of " the new man created in Righteousness and Holiness of Truth," even the Gift of the Holy Spirit, so that Christians have not only the grace to live a godly, righteous, and sober life, but, as knit together for corporate Life in Christ, have gifts for government, for the study of the Arts and Sciences, and above all for that Science which KIL-MA-VEON-AIG 5 deals with heavenly Mysteries and spiritual gifts. M' Gibbon, in his book on Architecture in Provence, well expresses what is in my mind : he says — " From the date of Constantine till the overthrow of society, barbarism, paganism, and Christianity went on side by side. While civilisation remained, and the schools continued. Christians of ancient learning and Pagan students discussed together the same problems of philosophy, and the fathers endeavoured to reconcile them with Christianity. But as successive waves of bar- barism rushed over the land sweeping all before them, almost every semblance of learning was swept away. Hence arose a desire on the part of learned men to retire from the anarchy and insecurity of the conditions around them to some safe retreat where they might converse on and study in peace those high problems which cccupicd their minds. These Societies in the natural course of events were by degrees converted into Monasteries. The celebrity of the Eastern ascetics and devotees had penetrated to Western Europe, but the solitary form of religious observance did not at first meet with much encouragement there. Societies of recluses were then, however, also common in the East, and the Eastern Monastery was the form adopted by the Western re- cluses as their model, but Monasteries were not at this time Religious Societies, nor were the Monks in Holy Orders. They were simply associations of laymen who wished to retire from the confusion and turmoil into which all civil government was thrown and to find peace for study and quiet for contemplation. Such was the famous Monastery of the Lcrines, founded early in the fifth century by St. Honorat, on an island off the coast near Cannes, which soon became the most celebrated school of learning and piety in the South of Gaul, and was as great a blessing to the countries of the Mediterranean as the similar Colony of St. Columba at lona was to 6 FACTS & FANCIES ABOUT KILMAVEONAIG our land. It is eas3% however, to fancy how, in the midst of the strife and unrest of the fifth and sixth cen- turies, such Societies tended to become rehgious and thus obtain protection from the Church. This they were finally compelled to do, although at the sacrifice of their liberty, by placing themselves under the authority of the Bishops, where alone they could find rest and safety. For the barbarians, many of whom were already Christians, stood in awe of the Church, and the Church strove to secure her ascendency by maintaining the independence of the spiritual power, and the incapacity of the temporal powers to interfere with it, a doctrine which afterwards led to the terrible struggle for supremacy between the temporal and spiritual powers, represented on the one hand by the Emperor, and on the other by the Pope ; a struggle which lasted so long and involved so many cities in the horrors of the factions of the Guelphs and Ghibellenes." The above extract shows that the Kingdom of God was slowly making its conquest ^vith lovers of Wisdom and seekers after Truth in the Gentile world : it also shows the adaptability of " the Sons of the Kingdom " to changing circumstances and trials, and their power of extracting the good out of them ; the riot and unrest resulting from the invasion of the barbarians leading men to \nthdraw from the chaos of Society into seclusion, paved the way for the Monastic life — not religious at first — but soon developing into that monastic system W'hich was destined to play so large a part in Europe for good — but, alas, often for evil also, for " the Enemy ever sows tares among the Wheat," as seen in the case of Les lies de Lerins (the Lero and Lerina of the ancients), which became as celebrated as a Monastery as lona, being called by a modern ^vriter, " The lona of the South." This development of the Monastic Life combining KIL-MA-VEON-AIG 7 work with devotion, after a while as we shall see in God's good Providence, found a centre in lona A.D. 563. Note here a new stage in the growth of " Regnum Dei " and its conquests. Rome's occupation of Britain for four centuries ceased A.D. 410, leaving the Britons a prey to their unconquered northern neighbours, the Picts, still mostly heathen ! but, ere Rome departs, one destined to lift up a standard for the people — St. Ninian is born A.D. 350, son of a British Chieftain, goes to Rome for fuller education, and is in due time consecrated Bishop by Pope Siricius ; on his way back to his native country he visits St. Martin in his monastery at Tours, and is said to have brought back with him Masons, and the first stone church, Candida Casa at Whithorn, so called because of its white stone, is built A.D. 397. In A.D. 430 another name comes before us — St. Palladius. We quote by permission notes from Moulin Parish Supplement, by Mr. Hugh Mitchell : — "While the Southern Picts in the East of Scotland from the Forth to the Dee embraced Christianity in the time of St. Ninian, about A.D. 400, those dwelling in the upper valleys of the Tay and its tributaries were left to their native paganism until the time of St. Columba. "St. Palladius would seem to have come to Scotland about A.D. 435 on a visit to his friend Terrananus, who at that time was Bishop of the Southern Picts, and had his residence at Banchory-Ternan on the Dee. When on this journey, St. Palladius made the Dell of Moness, near Aberfeldy, his temporary residence, and near it he built a small chapel, and although all vestiges have disappeared, the site is still known as Raghra-na-Eaglais, or the Field of the Church, while a Rock in the Den is still called Cais- tcal Pheallaidh, which commemorates his name. Aber- feldy is said to be a corruption of Aber-paldy, the name of the Saint. St. Palladius journeyed eastwards till he met his friend, and is said to have died at Fordoun in 8 FACTS & FANCIES ABOUT KILMAVEONAIG Kincardineshire where the Parish Church bears his name, and the yearly market is known as Paldy's Fair. " It has to be kept in mind that until the end of the 7th century, Celtic Churches were usually dedicated to living Saints, and so their names are a fairly accurate guide to the date when they were founded." "Another notable name — St. Kentigern — better known by his pet name, Mungo {i.e. dear) forms the connecting hnk between St. Ninian and St. Columba. His work was done amidst new conditions in the life of the country, amid the political and social anarchy resulting from the withdrawal of the Roman legions. Two kindgoms grad- ually emerged from the confusion. That of Bernicia, ex- tending along the East Coast South of the Forth, occupied by non-Christian English Settlers from the Continent ; and that of the Britons, called Cumbria at Strathclyde, stretching from Dumbarton to the Derwent in Cumber- land ; it was among the Britons that St. Mungo laboured. After being educated in St. Serf's School, Culross, he goes to Cathures (Glasgow) where he was chosen Bishop and consecrated by a Bishop from Ireland. Before his death, he met St. Columba on the banks of the Molendinar Burn in Glasgow, and by the burn over which the Cathedral of Glasgow was built, they, the representatives of the Roman-British and the Celtic Churches, embraced and exchanged pastoral staves, and thus we picture the blending of the two currents of Christianity in the one Church, Catholic in organisation, still free from that as yet undreamt of and unasserted claim of Roman supremacy." (" Short History of the Church in Scotland,"" hy the present Bishop of Aberdeen). CO I ^ CHAPTER 11. S. COLUMBA. And now after a lapse of 100 years, since the death of St. Ninian, the great Columba comes before us, and we pass from the scene of the labours of these early Christian Missionaries — harassed and devastated after the de- parture of the Romans — to Iona, to a small barren island in sight of Ireland and close to Mull. Here the King — once crucified and now ruling from the right hand of God— begins to advance His Kingdom by new methods and different weapons. Columba, be- longing to the powerful Clan of the O'Donnells, was born A.D. 521 of royal blood, and for those times, well educated in Monastery Schools (five of his school-fellows arc men- tioned by him — Cormac, Comgall, Brendan, Ciaran, and Cainnech) ; he had the bard, Gemman, as his instructor in literature, and after his ordination, he laboured in the Gospel for 15 years ; and whether the oft-told tale be Fact or Fancy, — that he made a copy of the Psalter unknown to its owner, who claimed the copy as his, and the case being laid before a Judge — that the verdict, " Every cow has its calf " enraged Columba, and he raised a quarrel of which the result was a battle in which thousands were slain, Molaise, his confessor, imposing as penance upon him that he should win many souls to Christ, even as many had been slain in a battle, — it is a fact that in A.D. 563, Columba, with 12 companions, sailed for Iona and began his work which has hallowed the Isle to which Dr. Johnson in his journey to Iona in 1773 thus refers : "We were now tread- ing that illustrious Island which was once a luminary of the Caledonian regions whence savage clans and roaming 10 FACTS & FANCIES ABOUT KILMAVEONAIG barbarians derived the benefits of knowledge and the blessings of religion. To abstract the mind from all local emotion would be impossible if it were endeavoured, and would be foolish if it were possible. Whatever withdraws us from the power of our senses, whatever makes the past, the distant, or the future predominate over the present, advances us in the dignity of thinking beings. Far from me and from my friends be such frigid philosophy as may conduct us indifferent and unmoved over any ground which has been dignified by wisdom, bravery, or virtue. That man is little to be envied whose patriotism would not gain force upon the Plain of Marathon, or whose piety would not grow warmer among the ruins of lona." Here it may be well to describe from the Bishop of Aberdeen's booklet, page 11, the manner of life of the monks in lona and other Columban monasteries : "A rampart enclosed the dwellings of the monks, the church, the refectory, and the guest chambers, while outside were the Mill, the Kiln, and Farm steading. Holy Scripture was studied and copied possibly as early as St. Columba's day. The young were educated. Most, if not all the canonical hours of devotion were observed, Wednesdays and Fridays were usually Fast-days. There were two peculiarities brought from Ireland which afterwards caused much trouble — {a) the Irish form of tonsure, the shape like a crescent with a fringe of hair in the front, and {b) a method of calculating Easter, different from the Roman use. It was not till after the death of Adamnan that the lona monks conformed to the Roman use, as now observed by us." Now let us picture to ourselves — and Fact and Fancy may well go hand-in-hand — Columba and his fellow- workers crossing seas and lochs in their curagh (coracle) to make captives of the Picts in the King's Name. What a contrast to the entry of the Roman legions in days gone by. What a conquest greater than that of Rome, S. COLUMBA 11 who, after the great battle of Monsgrampius, could not enter the country of the defeated Picts. " Not by warriors spear and sword, Not by art of human word ; Preaching but the Cross of Shame, Rebel hearts for Christ ye tame." Let us note that Scots from Ireland (for the name Scotland was not given to this country till a much later date) had settled in Argyllshire, about 100 years before St. Columba came and had founded the little Kingdom of Dalriada north of the British Kingdom of Strathclyde, so that Columba was related to its King and leading people. The Highlands of Perthshire and the North of Scotland, not the West, were still in Pagan darkness, but the East, according to the Venerable Bede, was Christian from the time of St. Ninian. After visiting his fellow-countrymen in Dalriada, St. Columba, about A.D. 565, decided to proclaim the good tidings of the Kingdom of God to King Brude at Inverness. A glance at the map will show how the chain of lochs from the Clyde to Inverness form an almost continuous waterway for Columba and his companions in their coracle. Picture them as they step on shore and ascend the hill to the Dun (or Fort) such as is described in "Branan the Pict.'"* "About a mile and a half from Inverness there is a vitrified fort on Craig Phadrig, which many suppose to be the remains of the actual fortress of the King, visited by St. Columba, known as Larach-an- Tigh-Mhoir (the site of the Big House) . The hill on which it is situated is about 550 feet above the level of the sea. The conical top is still crovined by masses of solid masonry, partly welded together by the action of fire. There are many such vitrified forts in Scotland " ; and again • By Miss On tram. 12 FACTS & FANCIES ABOUT KILMAVEONAIG quotinff, wc picture Columba approaching " the gigantic wall of the Dun from six to ten feet in width, the whole forming an imposing rampart from 50 to 60 feet high ; a narrow winding way deeply cut out of the solid rock or built up on either hand with stone work led up a steep ascent to the inner gate of the Dun." What a sight for the reverent imagination to picture ! Columba, tall, of commanding mien, and with a voice strong, penetrating, but sweet withal (so Adamnan de- scribes him), he comes as the Ambassador of the King of Kings, " with the praises of God in his mouth, and a two-edged sword in his hand to execute vengeance on the nations and to rebuke the people to bind their Kings with chains," with the cords of a man, the bond of Peace and of Love which is the Bond of Perfeetness ; yes, he comes to break the spells of Witchcraft and the authority of Darkness, with the good tidings of the World being redeemed by the Blood of the King, Who on the Cross became " the Propitiation for the sins of the whole world." This Gospel had sweeter music for the heart of man than the songs and sounds of the mere world of nature con- trolled as the Druids taught by the Demons they wor- shipped. In Branan the Pict, the scene at the gate of the Fort is graphically depicted. King Brude advised by Broichan, the Druid, had roughly refused Columba admission, bidding him return to the land whence he came. " Colum-cille was weary with his journey, and had sat him down by the side of the gate to await the king's answer. As the rough message was shouted to him over the wall, he rose from his seat and advanced to the wicket of the great portal. Then knocking loudly, he laid his hand, as if to push open the doors. At once the bolts shot back, and the great gates swung open, leaving the way free for the holy man to enter with his train. Whether it Avas the guard who feared his curse and unbarred the S. COLUMBA 13 doors, or that the gates opened of tiieir own accord, I know not, suffice it that to Colum-cille the fortress had surrendered at his touch. Boldly he advanced up the narrow winding ascent till he gained the enclosure above. By this time one of the guard had run to bring the king tidings of what had happened, for he was sitting in council with his lords within the hall. Then were they all greatly affrighted, and rose up to meet the man of God with reverence and awe, and Brudc spake gentle words of welcome to atone for the rude rebuff he had given him at the first. Straightway did Colum-cille preach Christ unto the king and seek to win him to the faith, and from that day to this does Brude greatly honour the Teacher who came to him armed with the authority and power of the Most High God." This made the Druid furious and he did his utmost to frustrate the teaching and influence of Columba. Columba at eventide would sing the Vesper praises of Gk)d outside the walls of the Dun, and as the story goes, when the sweet music came floating on the air, " a clamour arose in the air, and I heard the noise of drums and horns and hoarse chanting of incantations as Broichan and his fellows issued in solemn procession from the fort, and drew nigh to the little band of worshippers. With cries and tumult they sought to drown the sound of prayer and praise, so that the heathen who lingered around should not be able to hear. As I listened and wondered at the loud discordant tones, the voice of Colum-cille rose high above the unseemly din, so that the very words he sang could be plainly distinguished even from the distance at which I stood : — " My heart is inditing of a good matter ; I speak of the things which I have made unto the King." "Verse after verse rang out into the still air, like U FACTS & FANCIES ABOUT KILMAVEONAIG trumpet notes echoing through the skies. What mattered it that the Druids did their utmost to hinder the work of God, when the heavenly King gave His Ser^'ant so marvellous a power Avith which to silence the opposition of His foes ? I tell thee, fear fell on all those who heard the wondrous psalm that day." Here it will be helpful to quote from the lectures delivered in St. Giles Cathedral, Edinburgh, about thirty years ago ; the account of the Druid teaching and practice shew what Columba and his followers had to confront, and how the Word of God offers to man all that is true in his half knowledge, with all the perfect knowledge which God alone can reveal of Himself and Jesus Christ Whom He has sent. This Gospel has won its way into Man's heart in every age, because it is the knowledge of Life, not temporary, not partial, not limited in its sphere, but Eternal. The following somewhat lengthy quotation is apt and full of interest : — " Many allusions are found in old manuscripts to the necromancy of the Druids, and to their different spells and incantations. A favourite method of divination with them was by sneezing, or by the song of a bird perched on a tree. In an old poem attributed to St. Columba, these and other similar practices are referred to and abjured. ' Our fate,' sings the poet, ' depends not on sneezing ; ' Nor on a bird perched on a twig. Nor on the root of a knotted tree. Nor on the noise of clapping hands ; Better is He in Whom we trust, The Father, the One, and the Son.' and in another verse of the same poem, he says : — ' I adore not the noise of birds. Nor sneezing, nor lots in this world, S. COLUMBA 15 Nor a son, nor chance, nor woman — My Druid is Christ, the Son of God.' The rcHgion of the Northern kingdom of the Picts and Scots, of which the Druids were the Ministers, was in itself, as might be expected from what we have said, of a very debased and grovelHng kind. It seems to have been mainly a kind of fetishism, an adoration of natural objects, and of the powers of the external world — the rocks, the wind, the thunder ; and if the people rose in thought above what came within the knowledge of the senses, it was only to people the material world with demons and malignant spirits to whom all phenomena were attributed, and whose aid was to be sought or whose wrath was to be averted by means of charms and magical spells. Among the pagan Scots, pillar stones were objects of worship and were either overthrown or consecrated with the sign of the cross by the early Christian Teachers. The Sidhe were spirits who were supposed to haunt nature and to dwell underground, and a belief in their dread power remained long after Christianity had obtained a firm hold on Scotland, and lingers in some parts of our country to the present day. St. Columba seems to have had full belief in the existence of these demons, which were believed to have their usual dwelling-place in fountains and green hillocks, and he delighted in exorcising them. These invisible spirits pervaded the elements of Nature — the clouds, the waters, the earth, the trees, and in a striking poem said to be by St. Patrick, there arc signs that even he had not altogether shaken himself free from a sense of the mysterious power of the elements of nature. He says : — ' I bind to myself to-day The power of Heaven ; The light of the Sun ; The whiteness of the Snow : 16 FACTS & FANCIES ABOUT KILIVIAVEONAIG The force of Fire ; The flashing of Lightning ; The velocity of Wind ; The depth of the Sea ; The stability of the Earth ; The hardness of Rocks.' He invokes these with Christian powers, such as the power of Christ's Incarnation, Crucifixion, and Resurrec- tion, to defend him from the magical and evil influence by which he believed himself surrounded. ' I have set around me all these powers, Against every hostile savage power Directed against my body and my soul ; Against the incantations of false prophets ; Against the black laws of heathenism ; Against the false laws of heresy ; Against the deceits of idolatry ; Against the spells of women and smiths and Druids ; Against all knowledge which blinds the soul of man.' . . . With mysterious and weird prophecies like these, familiar to them, sung by their bards, repeated by their priests, — our forefathers found themselves face to face with Christianity and its message of Hope. . . . Christianity took up and consolidated the national characteristics of our forefathers. Among the Celts, it enlisted the spirit of clanship in the service of Christianity. Among the Saxons it allied itself with what was dearest and what was highest — with their homes, their assemblies, their cro^Mis, their graves. It fused the dif- ferent races — Picts, Scots, Britons, Saxons, into one great strong people, through the idea of a spiritual society which it inculcated and held up before them, the purest which ever drew men together. They seem to have S. COLUMBA 17 embraced Christianity with wonderful facihty when it was presented to them, and though there were occasional relapses into paganism, and some heathen practices were tenaciously retained, the converts appear to have adhered with wonderful constancy to the rites and worship of the new faith. Their teachers were gentle with them, tender to their superstititions, and forbearing with native usages of which they might not altogether approve. ... In an ancient Gaelic poem, the heathen poet, Ossian, is represented as holding a dialogue with the first Christian teacher of the Scots — St. Patrick, and it must, I think, be regarded as the last voice of Celtic heathenism. The old bard rejoices in the worship of nature, and records the prowess of his historic forefathers ; the Missionary tells of the power of God beyond all visible things and speaks in dogmatic terms of the future state. ' Patrick of the solemn psalms,' begins the old pagan, ' how great your love for God must be, since you do not close your book and listen to the voice of the blackbird ! Sweet blackbird, high on yon bending bough, how soothing is your song ! Although you have never heard Mass said by Priests, how delightfully you whistle.' He then goes on to tell of the music of his warlike an- cestor, Fionn, ' He played melodiously with the harp while I am here in grief with the Clergy,' and then he sings in heroic strains of the prowess of his forefathers, and mourns that he should have survived them and fallen on an evil time. ' When I think of the men who were so brave, I feel cheerless without friendship for my heart. Here I am weak, living after the Fenii and Fionn Mac Cumhal. Small is my esteem for thyself and clergy, oh holy Patrick of the Crosier. I have greater regard for the white-handed King of the Fenii — but he is not near me now.' The Saint has little sympathy with his regard for the heroes of other days — he warns his listener that he has not long to live — his great forefather died a pagan B 18 FACTS & FANCIES ABOUT KILMAVEONAIG and is in hell, and he will soon follow him unless he accepts the Christian Faith. . . ' I would rather be in Fionn's court hearkening to the voices of hounds in the morning and meditating on hard-fought battles, than in the Court of Jesus Christ.' The dialogue goes on at great length. What we have quoted is probably sufficient to indicate its character — the heathen clinging to his old beliefs ; the saint entreating him to ' smite his breast and shed tears and believe in Him Who is above him.' It exhibits in poetic form the meeting of the old and new. It belongs to the transition time, the dawning hour, the twilight of Scottish Chris- tianity." I also quote the following : " In a Council of the wise men of the Court of Edwin — who gives the name to our own city — of his aldermen, and thanes and nobles, the Christian teacher stood ready to plead his cause. No scene in the history of missions is more full of romance than that which ensued. Coifi, the high-priest of Woden, arose and confessed that he was moved by the new doctrines. He had served his gods long and faithfully, yet there were those in the kingdom who were richer and greater than he — if the deities had power he would have been richest and greatest of all. He asked that the new doctrines should be explained to them. The missionary explained his message to the assembly, and at the close of his address, the high-priest exclaimed, " Long since have I known full well that what we have been worshipping is naught, and the more diligently I sought after truth therein, the less I found it, but now in what this stranger preacheth, I openly confess there shineth forth such truth as can confer on us life, salvation, and eternal happi- ness ; I advise, therefore, O King, that we straightway break and burn down these temples and altars which we have hallowed and whence we have gained no good " (Bede). . . . Before this demolition of shrines was S. COLUMBA 19 agreed to, one of the assembled thanes gave his opinion in words that are full of deep feeling, and cannot fail to touch us still, though so many centuries have passed away since they were spoken. They are words which speak on the one hand of the hopelessness of the old religion and of the gleam of hope which the new threw on the life and destiny of man. " The Ufe of man in this world, O King," said the speaker, " may be likened to what happeneth when thou art sitting at supper with thy thanes in the time of winter. A fire is blazing on the hearth, and the hall is warm, without the rain and the snow are falling and the wind is howling. There cometh a sparrow and flieth through the house. She cntereth by one door and goeth out by another. While she is within the house, she feeleth not the howling blast, but when the short space of rest is past, she flieth out again into the storm and passeth away from our eyes. Even so it is with the brief life of man ; it appeareth for a little while, but what precedcth it or what cometh after it, we know not at all. Wherefore if this new lore can tell us aught, let us hearken to it and follow it." . . . The contrast between the paganism of that time and the civilisation of to-day is so overwhelmingly great as to be indescribable. The change in social life, political organisation, the rise of art, the discoveries of science, these things mark the distance we have travelled since the first Christian missionary set foot upon our shores." Yet as we recall Columba, Adamnan, and many other Saintly names, who by God's Blessing on their self- surrendered, self-denying, and self-sacrificing lives, made a conquest of our forefathers in the service of our King, are we not stirred to pray that once more " the Counsels of Perfection " may be responded to by many true disciples who, in our own day, ask of their Divine Teacher, " What lack I yet ? " We shall see as we pass from 20 FACTS & FANCIES ABOUT KILMAVEONAIG the Columban period to the Benedictine that " the corruption of the world through lust " (desire to please self rather than God) remains and will remain to the end. Did not Columba and Adamnan apply to their own times and temptations Ezekiel's words, "Woe to the women who sew pillows to all armholes " (Chap, xiii.), and the words of our Lord, "Woe to the rich " (St. Luke vi.), using the simile of the camel trying to pass through the Needle's Eye (the small postern gate seen in Eastern gates as a part of the larger one) with its load on its hump ; while Margaret, the sainted Queen of Scotland, shewed it was possible for one of rank and wealth to follow the Counsels of Perfection. I here insert a prayer formerly used by all the children of lona in school, which I bought when I paid my first visit to lona, A.D. 1888. The Gaelic of the verse is taken from MacLean's History of lona, and he copied them in A.D. 1832 from an MS. school book which was the one book then used in the one school in lona, though the Bible was no doubt used also. The English transla- tion is by Mr. MacCormick Eionphort Ross, of Mull. The verses are interesting as shewing that Columba's name was kept green in the hearts of the young. URNUIGH PHAISDEAN I. Tha sinn cruinn ann a d' lathairsa (We infants feeble and mild are gathered) Paisdean lag tha (Together in Thy presence) Tighinn a dhiarraidli ort eolais (We come to seek knowledge of Thee) Ann an oige ar la (In the morning of our days) . O Athair na trocair (0 Father of mercy) S. COLUMBA 21 D'am, buin morchuis gun chrioch (Whose magnificence knows no bounds) Seall a nuas ann an caoimhncas (Look Thou down in kindness on the) Air naoidheanan I (Babes of lona). Ann an linn cholum-chillc (In the days of St. Columba) B'e so innis an aigh (This was the happy isle.) Bha e ainmeal ann an eolas (It was reputed for its learning) Mar tha aolaich ag radh (As the learned do aver.) O, Athair gach troeair (O Father of Mercy) Ann a d' mhorachd gun chrioch (Still in Thy infinite dignity) Seall fathast an caoimhneas (Look down in kindness on the) Air naoidheanan I (Babes of lona.) The following lines embody a prophecy of olden times : — Scachd Bliadhna roimh'n Bhrath Thig muir thar Eirinn re aon trath 'S thar He ghuirm ghlais Ach snamhaidh I. Choluim cleirich. Seven years before the end of the world A sea shall cover Ireland and green Islay But the island of the venerable Columba will swim. From St. Columba we pass to St. Adamnan, 9th 22 FACTS & FANCIES ABOUT KILMAVEONAIG Abbot of lona, in whom wc arc specially interested, as the Saint, it may be, by whom or in whose name, after his death, Kilmaveonaig was built. A brief notice of some names of note in the country after Columba's time will be useful. " St. Fillan is said to have been a grandson of the King of Leinster, and to have come to Scotland about A.D. 615. Strathfillan bears witness to his work — he also came North to the Garry and founded the Church of Struan. A well at Struan, probably the old Pagan well, is still known as ' Tobar Faolen ' or St. Fillan's Well, and the ancient bell known as the ' Buidean ' (an engraving is inserted by the kindness of the Laird) is preserved at Ludc. His crosier and his arm bone, enclosed in a shrine known as the ' Breachbennoch,' were taken to Bannock- burn and received the credit of the victory which remained with Robert the Bruce, who, as a mark of gratitude, built a Priory at Strathfillan and dedicated it to St. Fillan. Another name of note is St. Aidan, a monk of lona, consecrated A.D. 635, in lona, as Bishop of Northumbria. On his way thither he stayed at Fortingall. While at Fortingall he founded the Church of Kenmore, where the Tay issues from Loch Tay. The next Saint whose labours are handed down to us is St. Cedd (St. Chad) a disciple of St. Aidan and educated at Lindisfarne, and in the controversy that arose about the keeping of Easter, he accepted the Roman use (our present one) and set out to lona to win them over to adopt it. They stopped him when he had got as far as Fortingall, where he laboured with much success. He founded the Church there (which is dedicated to him) also that at Logierait. This name from old documents is a corrup- tion of ' Logie-ma-Cedd ' or the Hollow of St. Cedd. We may here mention that the Church of Moulin, which was built on what was a peninsula of the shore of a small loch which at one time surrounded the Black S. COLUMBA 28 Castle of Moulin, was probably dedicated to St. Colman because Moulin market is known as ' Feil-na-Chalmaig ' or Market of St. Colman. It was usual for local markets to be held on the name day of the Saint to whom the neighbouring Church was dedicated." St. Cuthbert, the saintly Bishop of Durham, born about A.D. 625, was a shepherd boy in Lauderdale, and spent some time in Dull before he entered the Monastery at Ripon. I only mention him here as one of those whose names prove Dull to have been the centre of Chris- tian work before or about the time that Adamnan (or Eonan) began his work there. A glance at the map will show that Glenlyon, the longest glen in Scotland (30 miles), was a natural highway or bye-way from the West, which led to Perthshire, probably being a centre of work for the Abbots of lona, and thus in writing of St. Adamnan, whom we are glad to think of according to Folklore as our Patron Saint, — we recall the saying by our Lord, " One soweth and another reapeth." Next to St. Columba, the Saint best known and revered in the North of Perthshire, was St. Adamnan or St. Eonan, as he was affectionately named by the people. He was born in Ireland about A.D. 624, and received his training in lona, of which he became 9th Abbot in 679. The controversy between the Columban and Roman Catholic clergy regardmg the proper date for celebrating Easter was then at its height, and Northumbria, which had been converted to Christianity by St. Aidan of lona, had, after the Synod of Whitby in 664, adopted the Roman or Canonical custom. St. Adamnan with the object of obtaining fuller knowledge, visited Northumbria in 688, and became a convert to the canonical rule. He returned to lona but was unable to get the monks to conform, and was either expelled or found it desirable to leave. On his way to and from Northumbria he had passed through Glenlyon, where St. Cedd had some 20 years 24 FACTS & FANCIES ABOUT KILMAVEONAIG previously been successful in convincing the people of the truth of the Roman custom regarding Easter, and St. Adamnan no doubt thought he would find there a sym- pathetic people. He entered Glenlyon by the Larich Pass from the head of Loch Tay and settled at the Bridge of Balgie about the centre of the Glen where his first work was to restore the old church of St. Brendan (one of the early pre-Columban missionaries) and to erect a mill, still kno^vn as Milton Eonan. This Mill, though now partly a ruin and no doubt often renewed, was for upwards of 1000 years the chief mill of Glenlj'^on, and yearly on the Saint's day (6th October) the mill was kept closed and silent. When the great plague visited Glenlyon towards the end of the 7th century, it is said to have wiped out all the population in the lower part of the Glen except one old woman, who with her horse gathered the dead together : and St. Adamnan, from a rock near the Bridge of Balgie, prayed that the plague should go no further. The plague stopped there, and the rock is known as Craig Dianaidh, or the Rock of Safety. Leaving Glenlyon, St. Adamnan crossed the hill to Loch Tay, where he built a church at Ardeonaig, ' Eonan's height,' and thence he went eastwards to Dull where he founded a Monastery ^vith a Collegiate Church and a right of Sanctuary, marked out, it is said, by four crosses, one of which stands with an arm broken off by the roadside in Dull village, and two are in Weem Parish Church. Concerning the Sanctuary Crosses, Dr. Anderson, formerly Curator of the Museum of Antiquities in Edin- burgh, kindly wrote to me as follows : — " Three of them are known and are figured in Stuart's sculptured stones, they are, however, no longer in their original sites. Dull was an early monastic settlement of the Celtic Church, founded by or dedicated to St. Adamnan. The Preceptory of the Knights of St. John at Torphichen in Linlithgow- One of the Sanctuari; Crosses, •itli (III (iniu hrolu'u I'll, ill the village of Dull. S. COLUMBA 25 shire had four girth crosses marking the limits of its sanc- tuary some of which still remain on their original sites." Mr. Cameron, architect in Aberfeld5% has also favoured me with the following notes about these crosses : — " There are two ancient crosses inside the Church at Weem, of which I have pleasure in giving you these rough sketches and measurements. These are ^ ^ roughly shaped out of hard schist rock which, _/>;^ may be found in the district. Both stand • ' ■ '' upright, and from the ease with which one can move them, there would appear to be no base plinth to either of the stones. There is no sculptured work on either of them beyond the small bas relievo circle, with some trace of an incised cross, as suggested on No. 1. There are two partially sunk small holes on the face of each stone, and in connection with these is an interesting local story, viz. : — One of the Menzies Factors, who appears to have had a practical turn of mind, was in need of two gate f6i€'^'l€-W, m pillars, and selecting these two crosses said to '-f^.fj}.,^\i have been at Dull, he had them perparcd and ^<-^' K^^^y erected at the entrance gate of his house. On that same day he attended a farmers' dinner in the Breadalbane Hotel, Aberfeldy, after which he rode home in the small hours of the morning, and his lifeless body was found at his entrance gate the same morning. This sad end appealed to those concerned, and the two crosses were removed to their original place iSli at the Village of Dull. In olden times Weem Kirk was knoAMi as St. David's Church, and Alban Butler writes that St. Dabius was an Irish priest who preached with great success in his own country and in Alba. Foce 4 '5 2' s ^ 26 FACTS & FANCIES ABOUT KILMAVEONAIG. He is patron of Donach-Cloncy in the County of Dowrt, and of Kippen in Scotland, where a Church is dedicated to him by the name of Movean. In the Parish of Weem his holy well is pointed out ; and tradition relates that he had a Chapel on the shelf of the rock still called ' CRAG- NA-T'SCHEAPAIL ' or the Chapel rock. Here also was a burial ground called ' CILL-DAIDH.' An important market, known as ' Feill Eonan ' was at one time held at Dull on 6th October (old style), the name day of the Saint. Going still eastwards, St. Adamnan founded a Church at GrandtuUy, which was dedicated to him, but in 1533 the present Church was built on the old site and dedicated to St. Mary. From GrandtuUy, St. Adamnan went to Forfarshire, where he built the Church of Tannadicc, and the place where he sat and taught the people is still known as ' St. Eonan's Seat.' He seems to have made a prolonged sojourn in the North-Eastern counties, and founded many Churches — The Church of Kinneff in the Mearns, the Churches of Forgue and Aboyne in Aberdeenshire, and the Church of Forglen, formerly known as Teunankirk or Kirk of St. Eonan in Banffshire, all were dedicated to the Saint, and preserve his memory. He then seems to have retraced his steps and passed up the valleys of the Tummel and Garry to Bridge of Tilt where he is said to have founded the Church of Kil- maveonaig, and this Church and ancient Parish are named after him. He traversed Inverness-shire by Badenoch and the Valley of the Spey, and made his way across the river Ness to Glen Urquhart and Glen Moriston, the district lying on the North side of Loch Ness, where there is some evidence of Christian Churches having been founded in the time of St. Ninian. In Inverness-shire on the shore of Loch Insch, he founded a Church on a small height, known as ' Tom Eonan,' and the Bell of St. Eonan is S. COLUMBA 27 still there. It was once stolen, but as the only sound it would then give when rung was ' Tom-Eonan, Tom- Eonan,' its captors hastily returned it. In Glen Urquhart and Glen Moriston, the dedications to the Saint were a Chapel at Abriachan, and a Chaplaincy and a Croft at Kil St. Ninian. An Irish Life of the Saint is preserved in an Irish MS. which is in the Royal Library at Brussels. A translation has been made, but the life abounds in so much that is miraculous, that it is difficult to separate the real from the fanciful. One fact is however clear, that St. Adamnan was recognised by all, both in Ireland and Scotland as the leading Ecclesiastic of his day, that he wielded great power both temporal and spiritual, and that his influence with the Saxons of Northumbria was such that they yielded up to him all the captives they had taken iti one of their raids in Ireland. St. Eonan died in 704, at his beloved Milton Eonan, and by his dying commands, his remains were borne down Glenlyon by his young disciples and buried in the Church of Dull. There are many traces of St. Eonan around Dull. A well, called after him, still exists in the old manse garden (so Mr. Hugh Macmillan asserts) to which we refer later on. In the time of St. Cuthbert, who passed through it, it seems to have been a place of considerable importance, with an educational establishment and civic jurisdiction. St. Cuthbert (whose death is said to have taken place in 687) is reported to have lived for a while as a solitary near the Village of Dull. About a mile from the Village there is in the woods a steep hill now called the rock of Weem, on the summit of which he erected a little cell. Here at his prayer a spring of pure water gushed forth from the hard rock, and he erected a large stone cross, and close to it an oratory of wood. The cliff of Weem rises to a height of about 600 ft., and in many places 28 FACTS & FANCIES ABOUT KILMAVEONAIG it is so steep as to be almost perpendicular. Adamnan was evidently possessed of many singular gifts as well as of Irish royal blood (a cousin of Columba), and it is worthy of note that in those days " many noble were called to leave all and follow Christ." Adamnan is known as the biographer of Columba, and as the writer of a book concerning The Holy Place based on a narrative given him by Bishop Arculf — who was shipwrecked on the Scottish Coast — both which mark him as a man of some literary merit ; his influence at the council of Birr in Ireland A.D. 697 enabled him to get " the laAv of Adamnan " enacted, freeing women from obligation to military service. Thanks be to God for the humanity as well as other good qualities that marked our Patron Saint, but let us not forget that Avomen, as well as men, girls as well as boys, at their Baptism, are signed on the forehead with the Sign of the Cross, as being enrolled as Soldiers of the Prince of Peace to " wrestle not with flesh and blood, but with the World-Rulers of the darkness." And here we leave Adamnan, whether, as Folklore has it, laid to Rest as regards his body at Dull, or as the Irish aver, in his native land. We insert the fine hymn we sing (Tune 148 A. & M.) on September 23rd, when we thank God for St. Adamnan, as one of the "choice vessels of God's Grace, and of the Lights of the world " who caused our land to shine with the light of the Everlasting Gospel. Lo, our fathers have declared How the Lord hath done of old, How His servants He hath guided, How He kept and keeps His fold. Lo, they tell that He is glorious, Chiefest in His chosen saints ; In their battles and self-conquest, In the love that never faints. S. COLUMBA 29 O, 'tis sweet to tell their story, Fragrant with celestial grace ; Shining with increasing brightness From the higli and holy place. Thus, to-day, the blest Adamnan Comes by faith before our eyes, With dear record of another Sainted long in Paradise. Now he shares the peaceful glory In the Lord's Own Presence bright ; Now he tells the story wondrous, Joyful 'mid the Saints in light. There Adamnan and Columba Meet before the Throne on high. Ever surely interceding For those loved so tenderly. O that soon the holy places. Scattered o'er our sea-girt isle. May arise from out their ruin And on land and ocean smile. So once more may Saintly praises Ring forth joyful through the air. And the evening and the morning Mark again the day of prayer. Thus at every holy Altar May Thy Priests be seen to stand, Pleading aye before the Father For the Church's ransomed land. Hasten it, O God, the Father, Thro' Thy well-beloved Son, Sanctify, O God, the Spirit, Ever Three and ever One. Amen. 30 FACTS & FANCIES ABOUT KILMAVEONAIG But if we thank God for lona and its Abbots, do they not also warn us to be sober and watchful against the Adversary ? Is it not strange that, with the warnings of History, Christians, at least as a corporate body, have not seen within, as well as around them, " the mind of the Flesh which is emnity against God ? " Modem Tyre, modern Babylon turning the blessings of civilisation, the inventions that save labour and alleviate suffering, into a curse by misuse and abuse ; the Fridays and all Fast Days, — the helps to keep the King's rule of " daily self-denial " — neglected, and the result of this being that the demon powers which Columba and his " fellow- workers unto the Kingdom of God " had to confront in the Druid system, now are at work in an even deadlier form in the luxury and selfishness of modern society, and in the slums thronged with the defiled in body, often, alas, tenanted by souls that are bound by Satan from childhood, often, alas, the sport of men and women whose " wisdom is that from beneath, earthly, sensual, devilish," — and whose fault ? Is it not the fault of those who profess to be lovers of God, but seeing their brother (or sister) in need, shut up their compassion from him (or her) ? Are we Christians guiltless in the matter as regards what we have left undone in past 3'^ears, as well as in this our Day of Grace ? Now, as in St. Paul's day, it is a shame even to speak of the things done by the godless in secret. Is it not ceasing to be a shame to know that these are done without our sighing and crjing before God for these abominations ? (Ezek. ix.). I must not pass from this period without referring to the Culdecs — a small body of anchorites not to be con- fused with the Abbots of lona. " They lived in separate cells in the same enclosure with their fellows. The name in Scotland was spelt ' Keledci ' ; in Ireland, ' Cele-De,' meaning Ser\'ants or Friends of God. The Latin form was Cultores Dei. Their desire seems to have S. COLUMBA 31 been to live a life of greater seclusion in devotion to God's service. After a time they were supported by endow- ments or otherwise for the conduct of public services and private devotion, and they were often entrusted with important Churches ; but, alas, they shared in the general decay which set in in the 9th and two following centuries ; noble ideals gradually disappeared, ' Laxity ' displaced primitive discipline, and love and fervent zeal grew cold. The Abbot often held the endowment as private property, but appointed Priors, usually j^residing over 12 Culdees and fulfilling the efficient duties." CHAPTER HI. BENEDICTINE MONASTERIES, A.D. 1100 to 1300. The Kingdom of God — Regnum Dei — which we have traced thus far, we shall now see developed as to its civil life : joined in holy and happy alliance with the temporal power it becomes ' Civitas Dei,'' the nation becomes Chris- tian under the rule of Malcolm, and so the dark sad scene with which the last chapter ended, was but, in God's good Providence (which by His mercy never faileth), a passing cloud to issue in yet brighter days. " There is a tide in the affairs of men " which ebbs and flows by the law given to it, and when the ebb has come the new flood of healthy life begins. The Ebb " Man's Extremity " is " God's Opportunity " for a new Flood of Blessing, and in this case the Flood came from the great centre of Church Life, the Roman Empire, where, as we have seen, the Monastic life began and where it was now being stirred into more vigorous life, and it is wonder- ful, but universally true, that all true life is " loving and giving," and that God generally calls one true-hearted man or woman to carry out His loving purpose. In this case, Bernard, Abbot of St. Cyprian in Poitou, was the "Vessel of God's choice," and we shall see that it is probably to him that we owe the building of a Benedictine Monastery {i.e. a Monastery in which the rules of St. Benedict were observed) on the ruin of that of St. Adamnan at Dull. I quote from Gordon's " Monasticon " : — " Tiron was in the Diocese of Chartes, where, A.D. 1100, St, Bernard, Abbot of St. Cj-prian, in Poictou, had a settlement given him by the Earl of Perche. After a time he adopted the principles of a sect. BENEDICTINE MONASTERIES 38 endeavouring to effect a reformation of Monastic disci- pline, and joined the society of the itinerant Archdeacon of Rennes. Bernard, desirous of retirement, and dis- approving of some fanatical practices of the Archdeacon, withdrew from the Society andiinally settled in the woods of Tiron, where they formed themselves into a religious fraternity under the rules of St. Benedict, with some regulations of his own added, viz. : — that each of the Brethren should practise within the convent whatever mechanical art he knew, both to preserve them from the corruptive power of idleness and to provide, by useful industry, for the maintenance of the community, poor at its beginning. Accordingly the monks of Tiron and the other monastries of this order consisted of painters, carvers, carpenters, smiths, masons, vinedressers, and husbandmen, who were under the direction of an elder, and the profits of the work were applied to the common use. Six monastries are said to have belonged to this order in Scotland, but others think that Dull was also one, for Dull had the names of different localities (for which there existed no other cause from time immemorial), as the Smith Street, the Mason Street, and other trades which point to the labours of the monks (in GaeUc) . The Minister of Dull (Mr. Macfarlane) kindly sent me from the Manse, the following bits of Folklore about Dull, which seem to indicate that it was once a pretty large ecclesiastical settlement : — " There is The Ladies' or Nuns' Walk, an avenue of very old ash trees, by Drumdewan Farm, near to which local tradition assigns the site of a nunnery. It also assigns sites to the Monastery — ^to the College (said to be the rudiments of St. Andrews University) to ' Baile Beag ' or the Little Town of Dull (where the lay sers^ants and artizans connected with the settlement had their quarters) — to ' Carsemuckie ' (Carse A Bhuicie) (where c 34 FACTS & FANCIES ABOUT KILMAVEONAIG the Manse now is) The Buck's Close or Deer-park, con- nected with the Monastery. The Farm below the Manse is ' The Carse ' or grazing ground. The Farm to West of Manse is ' Tegarmuchd ' (old spelling Tigarmank), said to be from Tiggar Monk or mendicant friars' hospice. The hill on opposite side of River 'Tullichuill' or Tullich. Dull, where the flocks were driven to Summer Pasturage and herded by the younger brethren, who lived in ' Sheilings.' These are a few of the place names, which indicate the uses to which the different places were put. A few of them I had from the late Rev. John M'Lean of Grandtully, who was somewhat of an authority on the subject." This tide of revival of Christian life which in those days was, as we have seen, largely Monastic, reached our land about the time of the Norman conquest, and we cannot fail to see the directing power of the ascended King using " the things of Caesar " to advance his own Kingdom in the world. William the Conqueror brought to England a great company of Norman nobles and clergy with their more advanced learning and civilisation, and the Norman conquest was also the indirect means of changing the whole character of the Scottish Church, hitherto ruled from lona, which had only slowly and in part, yielded to Roman practice {e.g. the keeping of Easter and the form of tonsure), but Edgar Atheling, the claimant to the English Throne, with his two sisters, was driven to seek refuge in the Court of Malcolm, who A.D. 1058 began to reign over a kingdom which had been gradually enlarged by the cession of the English Lothian, and an alliance in marriage with the Ruler of Strathclyde ; the result of the wel- come which Malcolm Canmore gave Edgar and his sister, was that Malcolm made a conquest — after many attacks on the citadel — of Margaret's heart. Is not the con- trast striking between Columba of Royal Irish Blood, who by his monastic and ascetic life won Scotland from BENEDICTINE MONASTERIES 35 the Druids for his King and Lord, and Queen Margaret who — as wife and mother, but no less ascetic than Columba, — established the Catholic Church in her adopted country. Her influence over Malcolm " was as beautiful as it was great. The rough soldier, ferocious in time of war, was softened and subdued by his wife's goodness. Unable to read himself, he would kiss her favourite books and cause them to be ornamented with gold and gems. She taught him to pray with earnestness and to practise works of justice, mercy, almsgiving, and other virtues, while the dread of offending her exercised a potent influence over his rugged character. Her care for the up- bringing of her children was no less admirable." Three of her sons, Edgar, Alexander, and David, grew up men of upright character, and did much for religion and education and the well-being of the people, and one of her daughters became " the good Queen Maud of England." To understand the history now before us we must remember that the usage of the Celtic Church — now be- coming lax and wanting in discipline — had no associations for Margaret, while it seemed to her that Roman customs should take their place. But let us not confuse Rome in that day, with Rome as it was at the Reformation. The Church was Catholic in early times ; it was by errors and corrupt practices against which we protested at the Reformation, that the term " Roman " is one against which a true Catholic must protest. We see therefore in the 11th century the Celtic Church crumbling away, and assimilated in its practices to the sister Church in England. Under Queen Margaret, and her sons who came to the throne in turn after the death of Malcolm, we see the Kingdom of God becoming " Civ it as Dei," i.e. a Kingdom gradually established by wise legislation executed in righteousness, and loyally obeyed by law-abiding citizens, and thus the Kingdom of God founded on Calvary in the 36 FACTS & FANCIES ABOUT KILMAVEONAIG midst of Imperial Rome grows, spreads, goes forth conquering and to conquer, by the corporate Life and Witness of the Soldiers of the King, till it wins Kings to be the Nursing Fathers and Queens the Nursing Mothers of the Church, and a Christian State is the result — the Benedictine monasteries, the Abbeys, the Parish and Collegiate Churches, the Legislative — all unite in one aim, viz., the growth of the Kingdom of God in the land. What a change since Columba knocked at the fortress of King Brude in the name of the King of all the earth ? Yes, " ECCE HOMO ! ECCE REX " echoes on through the ages ; the King in the person of His Mystical Body stands before men for acceptance or — God forbid — ^for rejection. We must keep our thoughts on Calvary and realise that the Only Begotten of the Father became Man in order by Death to abolish Death, and that until the " mortal has put on immortality," it will be age after age growing old, yet to be always renewed unto new life ; otherwise it will depress us thus to see Columba's work an apparent failure, and the glory of lona passing from it to Dunkeld (which then became the seat of the Bishop). But now in faith we leave Columba, Adamnan, and their fellows resting from their labours in " sure and certain hope of the Resurrection at the Last Day," and we turn cheerily in renewed hope that now the turn of the tide has come. Yes, the King on His throne sitteth above the waterflood — " From age to age more glorious, All blessing and all blessed, The tide of Time shall never His Covenant remove ; His Name shall stand for ever. His changeless Name of Love." BENEDICTINE MONASTERIES 37 On the sites of the Monasteries built by St. Eonan and others of mud and other more or less perishable materials, S. Bernard built his more permanent structure of stone, no doubt larger and more suited to the modern life. The number of monks varied from 50 to 60, and up to as many as 200, it is said in Melrose. The last Abbey founded in Scotland was in Galloway in A. D. 1275, called "Sweetheart," it is said because the foundress, the daughter of the Lord of Galloway, and wife of John Baliol, had her husband's heart embalmed after his death and placed in a coffin of ivory " which at her death should be buried with her and placed upon her breast " in the Abbey she had founded. Before we pass from the subject of Monasteries, let us consider their great use in the fresh vigour of their religious life ; their abuse will be seen later on — alas, which at the Reformation blinded men's eyes to the good they had done. We find they required manual labour, specially as we see in the Tironences, where every monk must have a trade. The monks were the friends of the serfs, the poor and the helpless ; they not only gave much attention to agriculture, but were the first to grant long leases of their lands on easy terms to tenants, who were not, as a rule, like lay proprietors, obliged to give military service. Each was a centre from which educa- tion, religion, and civilising influence radiated to the country round. The Scottish Baron of the time not only could not sign his name, but looked upon such an act as only a monkish accomplishment to be despised. In the monasteries then we may see that the flickering lamp of knowledge was kept burning till brighter times came. What a change since then to our day ! Now we need in a different way the Lamp to give that true knowledge which alone is " Life Eternal," lest we lapse into worse than Pagan darkness. What brought the evil days on the monasteries ? — 38 FACTS & FANCIES ABOUT KILMAVEONAIG riches hoarded up, instead of being used for the brother in need, the want of simplicity of life, the acquiring of property contrary to the rules of Benedict, the well- stored cellars, and the relaxing of discipline — these and such-like made the communities a proverb and a byword which were at first a blessing. The monasteries were largely abolished at the Reformation, but have we, — " the children of the Reformation " — renounced the luxury and self-indulgence we professed to condemn, and ruled our lives by the Master's words, " If any one wills to come after Me, let him deny himself and take up his Cross daily and follow Me ? " Let the conscience of each one of us answer in the words of our Christian Poet :— " Seek we no more ; content with these, Let present rapture, comfort, ease. As Heaven shall bid them, come and go, The secret this of Rest below." We turn in the next chapter to the earliest date of Kilmaveonaig, A.D. 1275. CHAPTER IV. THE PARISH OF KILMAVEONAIG. 1275. We now come to our first Fact about our " unique " church, for it is mentioned in an old register in Edinburgh as a parish. In Grub's History we read that in A.D. 1275, the Pope sent a nuncio, Boiamund de Vicci, to collect a tithe from the parishes of the Scottish Church for the rehef of the Holy Land ; we know that Peter the Hermit, in the twelfth century, by his account of the sufferings of Jews and Christians under Turkish rule, stirred Chris- tian Europe to undertake another Crusade, soldiers going forth with the Cross as an outward earnest of victory ; and in this roll commonly called Bagimont's Roll (for the man and his work were not popular) are inscribed the names of the Parishes and the tithes paid by them. The Roll was headed Taxatio Beneficiorum Praeter Prelacias Scotiae in decima parte earundem. The late Bishop of Edinburgh, Dr. Dowden, most kindly sent me the following details : "At the Vatican there is a record of Boiamund's Taxatio in 1275 and 1276. In the Collection " Decima in Episcopatu Dunkeldense pro primo anno," I find " Ecclesia de Kylnevenet 1 marc." The final " t " of Kylnevenet is doubtless an error for " c," nothing is more frequent than the confusion of " " and " t " in medieval script. The 1 marc for tithe gives us 10 marcs — 6 lib. 13 shilUngs and fourpence. This was a fairly good benefice for the day. " Ecclesia de Weem " paid as tithes 30 sol., giving revenue of 15 lib. In the second year's account the church appears as " Kilmevonoc" and again pays 1 marc. In 1276 there is the following entry : — 40 FACTS & FANCIES ABOUT KILMAVEONAIG de Lod 9 Sol 4 den. de Leod 9 sol. 4 den. paid as tithes on revenue. de Mulin " " de Kylmichael 4 lib. 2 sol. 8 den. The above notes are from Theiner's Monumenta, page 112. The " Lod " is the same as Kirkton of Lude, the old ruin well known to us, and it is interesting to find this as an ancient parish mentioned in the same Roll as paying this tithe. We have therefore here clear proof not only of Kilmaveonaig being an ancient parish church, but also that it had been formed some years before 1275, for the Bishop says that the tithe paid proved it to be a parish of some importance. This probably arose from its connection with the Robertson clan, and its early link with lona. It is also interesting to note that Kirkton of Lude, of which we are able to give a photograph of the ruins, is mentioned in the old Register. Kilmaveonaig being mentioned in the Register gives us the House of God, Domus Dei as a fact. The King when He founded His Kingdom on Calvary " had not where to lay his head," but when His Kingdom comes into the land, His Ministers have " gifts of government " amongst the spiritual things given to them at Pentecost, and a Kingdom becomes a State {civitas) and of course as Solomon built Him an House, so Christian kings and nobles did likewise. Is it not pleasant to let Fancy roam back to the dim past, and picture perhaps first the mud or wooden church of S. Eonan's day, and then later on one of stone maybe built by Patrick or some other early forebear of the Robertson clan ! Thus may not Fancy revel o'er the " auld lang syne " of the palmy lona days ? Doubtless then, as now, the Fender fell into the Tilt, the Tilt into the Garry, the Garry into the Tummel, and "STje Buidhean," or S. Lilian's Bell of Stroicaii. The Jlcll idiiic into Mr. M' Inroy's possession when the present Church of Stroivau was hitUdiiig. He provided the bell {the nciv bell), and received the old in exc/iaiise. — Liide. lS2fi." PARISH OF KILMAVEONAIG 41 the Tummel into the Tay ; and methinks I see a man of reverend mien and simple dress, with shepherd crook in hand walking up and down the Strath, perchance giving to some native the rites of Christian burial in the ground where Mr. Christie now has his farmstead, where there are still graves to be found, and which some people think was a sacred spot in old Pagan times ; the old stone now standing there is thought to be Druidic, and in the noontide heat I think I see a man resting on the ground, from old times known as Dail-ant-sagairt (the field of the priest). Is the figure I picture here dear Eonan ? Why not ? And when eventide comes, as Strowan had an old bell (of which Miss Nora M'lnroy has kindly furnished me with a small photograph), so may not one at St. Eonan's Church be heard calling to prayer ? " Be the day weary and be the day long, At length it ringeth (or weareth) to evensong." And it is interesting to note how the monks of those olden times have left their seal on the country round, e.g. they would often retire to some secluded desert place, as in the Gospel story, for rest and quiet, and in the name " Dysart " we have in our neighbourhood the record of a desertum. Dysart was the old name of Faskally. The following quotation shews that in the Columban Church there had been no Parishes and no Dioceses, but with the influx of Saxons and Normans from England and the Benedictine Monks from abroad, the Church system familiar to us took its rise : — " The remodelling of the Scottish Church was carried out mainly by the establishment of Parishes and the introduction of Diocesan Episcopacy, and the Bene- dictine Monastic Orders from abroad. " The organisation of the Celtic Church was monastic, not parochial. In many cases, a tribe or a province possessed its own monastery, endowed by some former 42 FACTS & FANCIES ABOUT KILMAVEONAIG chief, and supplying Christian rites to people around. There were also foundations which did not possess this tribal character. Sometimes a monastery had under its charge a group of neighbouring churches. Mortlach, in Aberdeenshire, with its five churches, was an instance of such an arrangement, and also Scone with its eleven Churches, the first it is to be noted of the Benedictine Monasteries, founded in Scotland A.D. 1115. . . . We can often recognise the name of the first evangelist of the district in the Saint to whom its church was after- wards dedicated, or in the well at which he baptised his converts, or in the ' fair ' or festival (for such is the original meaning of the term) held on his ' day,' and still known by his name, or in the stone seat on which the good man was wont to rest, or in the cave to which he retired for shelter or meditation ; but parochial Churches in the proper sense, mainly supported by tithes drawn from the district which they supply, were almost unknown till about the beginning of the twelfth century. The formation of parishes was promoted by the sovereign, whose efforts were zealously seconded by the Norman and Saxon settlers. " The proprietor of a manor built a church, or en- dowed one already existing for the use of himself and his people with the tithes of his land, and nominated a priest with the sanction of the Bishop to serve it. His manor came to be regarded as a Parish, and this was the origin of Parishes, Tithes, and Patronage. "... The Institution of Parishes was the most valuable part of the organisation of the Medieval Church, and it has proved to be the most lasting. " Another part of the process of assimilating the Scottish to the English Church was the introduction of Diocesan Episcopacy which, it is now generally believed, had no existence in Scotland till the twelfth century. " The only Bishopric created after David's reign was PARISH OF KILMAVEONAIG 43 that of Lismore or Argyll in 1222. It was formed out of the Diocese of Duukeld and embraced the mainland of Argyll ; this made the thirteen pre-reformation sees, Edinburgh being formed in the reign of Charles I." By the Fact that Kilmaveonaig was a Parish Church A.D. 1275, and paid a tithe collected by the Pope for the rehef of the Holy Land, we are brought face to face with the claim of Rome to supreme authority over the Cathohc Church : methinks, therefore, that some reference to authority comes within the scope of this book, for there can be no lasting unity without authority. Let us note first what the Word of God saith about "Authority." " There is no authority but from God — the authorities that exist are ordained by God " (Romans xiii., R.V.), so that God has from the beginning ruled the world by delegated authority. We must distinguish between authority and power — physical or moral. Two Greek words are often translated by one English (see Acts i.), but S. Peter speaks of two ranks of spiritual beings "Authori- ties and Powers " (I. Ep. chap. iii.). Observe then that God delegates His authority {a) by Priority of Existence — "Adam first formed," by seniority (elders, etc.), by parents; (b) by legally constituted authority — ^kings, governors, elected by the people, also by any meeting electing a chairman, and when there is no " King in Israel," everyone does right in his own eyes, and disorder and possibly riot ensues. Or again, a divided authority, or usurpation of it, weakens its power to enforce its decrees, and in the one case or in the other leads to defiance or rebellion. We see this in the Scottish history before the Revolution, and are there not ominous signs around us now in some difficult problems before Parliament ? Mark then the unique claim made by our King after His crucifixion and when about to take His place on the Right Hand of Power — "All Authority is given unto Me in Heaven and on Earth." He claims to be Monarch not 44 FACTS & FANCIES ABOUT KILMAVEONAIG only over Israel, not only over earthly rulers, not only over loyal subjects, hut also over the rebellious, whethel" men or angels. Here then we have delegated authority centred in one Person, and as the Head of the Church, which is His Body, He exerts that authority ministerially, and we are confronted with the question of vital, of primary import- ance, "How is the Church to minister it?" "Who gave thee this authority ? " is the question that in daily life is asked of everyone who in matters great or small ventures to interfere or to give an order more or less autocratically. " Who made thee a ruler or a judge ? " asks one. " Mind your own business," says another. " Who sent you ? your orders are not valid," saith a third. Therefore to ensure obedience the authority of the person or Society must be recognised, and we are fallen upon times perilous through defiance of authority ; it is most urgent, therefore, that the authority of the Church must be plainly delegated to Her by Her King. The claim of Rome must therefore be either right or a usurped one. If it is the latter we are ^vrong in admitting it. I wish here to in- troduce the reader to Bryce's " Holy Roman Empire," a most interesting book, and I hope the following extracts will lead to a careful study of the book, as well as justify my quoting it. The first extract shows how the Roman Empire at- tained its proud position of mistress of the world, and that stability of power which gained for Rome the title of " The Eternal City." Then other extracts will show how Christianity, as the Kingdom of God, rose out of the ruins of the Empire of the Caesars, and ended by embracing and transforming it. The first extract is as follows out of Chapter I. : — "Among the institutions of the Middle Ages there is scarcely one which can be understood until it is traced up to either classical or primitive Teutonic antiquity. Such a mode of enquiry is most of all needed in the case of the PARISH OF KILMAVEONAIG 45 Holy Empire, itself no more than a tradition, a revival of departed glories. In order to make it clear out of what elements the imperial system was formed we might trace Rome in her developing legislation and the growth of her power and her conquest of surrounding tribes, but let it suffice to glance at her condition in the third and fourth centuries of the Christian era. We shall then see the old Empire, with its scheme of absolutism fully matured, and we shall then mark how the new religion rising in the midst of a hostile power, ends by embracing and transforming it, and we shall be able to understand what impression the whole huge fabric of government, which Roman and Christian had piled up, made upon the barbarian tribes." The letter of Athnulf, the successor of Alaric, records his wish to restore the Roman power. He writes : — " It was at first my wish to destroy the Roman name, and erect in its place a Gothic Empire, taking to myself the place and the powers of Caesar Augustus. But when experience taught me that the untameable barbarism of the Goths would not suffer them to live beneath the sway of law, and that the abolition of the institutions on which the State rested would involve the ruin of the State itself, I chose the glory of renewing and maintaining by Gothic strength the fame of Rome, desiring to go down to pos- terity as the restorer of that Roman power which it was beyond my power to replace. Wherefore I avoid war, and strive for peace." Then later on we read : " The conception of that Empire was too universal, too august, too enduring. It was everywhere round these barbarians, and they could remember no time when it had not been so." " There were especially two ideas whereon it rested, and from which it obtained a peculiar strength and a peculiar direction. The one was the belief that as the dominion of Rome was universal, so must it be eternal. Nothing like it had been seen before. . . " 46 FACTS & FANCIES ABOUT KILMAVEONAIG The empire " of the Italian city had for fourteen gen- erations embraced all the most wealthy and populous regions of the civilised world, and had laid the foundations of its power so deep that they seemed destined to last for ever." " From the end of the republican period her poetry, her orators, her jurists, ceased not to repeat the claim of world dominion, and confidently predict its eternity." The proud belief expressed by Virgil that the Empire would last for ever (imperium sine fine) "was shared by the early Christians, who prayed for the persecuting power whose fall would bring Antichrist upon earth." In early Christian times " Lactantius writes: — ' When Rome, the head of the world, shall have fallen, who can doubt that the end is come of human things, aye, of the earth itself. She, she alone is the state by which all things are upheld even until now ; wherefore let us make prayers and supplications to the God of Heaven, if indeed His decrees and His purposes can be delayed, that the hateful tyrant come not sooner than we look for, he for whom are reserved fearful deeds, who shall pluck out that eye in whose extinction the world itself shall perish.' " And S. Paul is considered by the early Christian writers to refer to the removal of the Roman power as making way for " the Lawless One " (2 Thess. ii.). The following extracts refer to that wonderful Provi- dence of God whereby the Church, at the conversion of Constantine, A.D. 313, entered on the inheritance of that authority and power of the Empire which the barbarian conqueror resolved to perpetuate : — "With the triumph of Christianity this belief had found a new basis. For as the Empire had decayed the Church had grown stronger ; and now while the one, trembling at the approach of the destroyer, saw province PARISH OF KILMAVEONAIG 47 after province torn away, the other, rising in stately youth, prepared to fill her place and govern in her name, and in doing so, to adopt and sanctify and propagate anew the notion of a universal and unending state." The chief elements that gave strength and stability to the Church lay in the fact of her association with the Emperor as a Christian. The Emperor, standing in his splendid isolation, not only as the centre of civil power but as supreme Pontiff, gradually had divine honours paid him — the worship of the Emperor was the only worship com- mon in the whole Roman world, and thus, when the seat of Empire was removed to Constantinople, it left the Bishop of Rome practically a temporal, as well as a spiritual, ruler, and the Goth who at Constantinople exclaimed, " Without doubt the Emperor is a God on earth " was also struck with a deeper awe as he gazed on the crowding worshippers and stately ceremonial of Christian worship in the Churches of S. Sophia and of Milan. Thus the glory and power of the Roman Empire, which had ceased to be more than a memory, is revived in the Christian Church, and Rome as the seat of the Catholic Church becomes in a wider sense " The Eternal City," and in the coronation of Charles by the Pope at Rome on Christmas Day, A.D. 800, we see the temporal and the spiritual powers united, each giving to and receiving from the other something of glory and influence in the eyes of the people. The Pope in crowning Charles assumes authority over the earthly monarch, and Charles in being crowned by the Pope can claim a certain "jus divinum.^^ In succeeding ages we see how circumstances led to the developing of the claim to Papal supremacy, which began in germ on that memor- able Christmas Day. We have now seen how the Pope was led to claim supremacy, but to my mind (I only speak for myself as being a Catholic, while I protest against the Roman claim) the claim comes out more clearly as antagonistic to the 48 FACTS & FANCIES ABOUT KILMAVEONAIG universal authority of our Lord (S. Matt, xxviii.) for (a) the claim was not made by the first Bishops of Rome ; (b) it is contrary to the analogy of God's law in family life, the eldest son is not the autocrat of his younger brothers ; the will of the Father — interpreted by the whole family according to the varying needs — is the authority ; (c) the Roman Church stultified herself at the Reformation by refusing to " return unto the Way of Righteousness " ; {d) if our Lord gave supreme authority to S. Peter would S. James have been first Bishop of Jerusalem ? (Acts xv.), would S. Paul have withstood him ? (Gal. ii.), and surely Peter himself would in his epistle have asserted his authority. My contention is that the Risen Lord, to Whom The Father gave all authority, must rule in His Mystical Body after the Law by which He rules in Family Life. The different branches of the Family are ruled by the head of each Family, so in the life of the Mystical Body, the rule must be according to the tradition summed up in the words of S. Vincent of Lerins, " quod ubique, quod semper, quod ab omnibus," and for the elder branch of the family to claim supremacy is usurpation of authority, and therefore to be resisted as contrary to the Will of God. When " the Lawless one " appears, a recognised Authority over all Christians will be essential to order and to Unity, and therefore to the strength necessary to " overcome evil in the good." For this let us pray, believing that our King in supreme authority will gather us into His Presence to tell us " all things whatsoever He commands." Now as to the meaning of Kilmaveonaig : — as far as I can estimate the divers theories set forth, that most held by folk-lore and by the best historians is as follows : — KIL (cell) MA (Saint) V (a consonant inserted before a vowel) EON (Eunan, a well-known variation of Adamnan) AIG (a Gaelic word expressive of affection). It is evident that the family of lona did endear themselves PARISH OF KILMAVEONAIG 49 to the people by " going about doing good," as their Divine Teacher was wont to do, healing their bodies as well as bringing peace to their souls ; and then sometimes, even in the lifetime of the Saint, a House of God would be built and named after him or her. There is another explanation put forth by Bishop Forbes in his " Book of Scottish Saints " that the words mean " the Church of the Beloved Bishop John." There was a noted Bishop John of Dunkeld — John, the Englishman who divided the Diocese of Argyll (or Lismore) from that of Dunkeld, and afterwards became Bishop of St. Andrews ; he has ever been held in the highest reverence. In the end he retired to the Cistercian Abbey of Newbattle, and died A.D. 1203. And there is a well at Lude known as " Bishop's Well," also the Village Fair is in an old book called FEIL-Espog-EON (The Fair of Bishop John). The true explanation may be found in the following note sent to me : — " Granting that there was really a Fair instituted in memory of this Bishop, John of Dunkeld, it is natural enough if the Fair used to be held at the Church grounds, to suppose that in course of time the name of the Bishop got transferred to the Chm'ch, and that thus the people took into their heads that some Bishop John was their Patron Saint. In no other way does it seem credible that the name of a Bishop could become used as that of the Patron Saint? No Bishop, in consecrating a Church, would have dedicated it to another Bishop of so (com- paratively) recent date as the 13th Century, and the sentence quoted from Forbes anent ' Feil Espog Eoin ' was originally supplied along with other dates of Athole Fairs, to Dr. Joseph Anderson, Keeper of the Museum, who holds that Skene probably got these names and dates of the Fairs from the people of the district by word of mouth, and that if written down at all by any D 50 FACTS & FANCIES ABOUT KILMAVEONAIG one who gave them, they would be spelt phonetically.''^ In " Historic Scenes in Perthshire " we find reference made to the old burying-ground referred to as at the back of the Tilt Hotel, not the site of an old church as some have supposed, but Clack-GHIL-AINDREAS is the cemetery of St. Andrew's disciples ; at the latter place many bones have been found entire in coffins made of planks, and to the south, in the olden times, was held Andrewmas Market. The Annual Fair was held in the City of Perth. That the Blackwood, as it is called, was an old burying-ground is proved by excavations that were made about the year 1840, as mentioned in a letter sent me by Miss Hay, November 26, 1912. She wrote : — " Somewhere about 70 years ago Mrs. Mclnroy, Lude, having reason to think that burials might have taken place in the Black Wood, sent men to dig in different spots there, with the result that more than one stone coffin of a simple type, consisting of 6 loose slabs, were discovered. In one at least of these coffins was a skeleton still possessing teeth and long hair. The bodies had been doubled up in the coffins. The coffins and bodies were not disturbed, but covered up again." CHAPTER V. KILMAVEONAIG RESTORED, A.D. 1591. The next Fact with regard to the Church is the re- building of it, A.D. 1591 (as shown by the stone in the South wall) by the Robertsons of Lude, on whose pro- perty the Church stood. But before we refer to this, let us glance at the state of Scotland, and note some changes that took place before this date and afterwards. In the reign of David, " a sair sanct to wear a crown," events of far-reaching consequence took place. Rome was appealed to instead of Canterbury, with regard to the filling of vacant Sees, and a Papal Legate was called in for the first time, and thus recognition of Roman authority began, and lasted for weal or for woe during four centuries. Then again, A.D. 1225 the First Annual Provincial Council was held according to the provision of the Fourth Lateran Council, A.D. 1215, which enacted that Provincial Councils should be held annually throughout the Church, and the Bishop of Aberdeen points out in his book that it illustrates — happy omen ! — " how Episcopacy might be combined with the General Assembly system in the event of a large Ecclesiastical Reunion taking place in Scotland." Again, we find history repeating itself. The renewed life resulting from the work of the Benedictine and Cis- tercian monks began to lose force. As long as they hon- estly made S. Paul's teaching as to labour their rule — " Let him labour, working with his hands the thing which is good that he may have to give to him that needeth " (Eph. iv.), all went well, but when the deep-seated selfishness of our fallen nature had again asserted itself, and the object of all Christian labour (to give to him that needeth) 52 FACTS & FANCIES ABOUT KILMAVEONAIG was set aside, and the monks planted and builded and laboured and hoarded up their gains for their own use, " the corruption through lust " got the upper hand — " the jolly monks of old " became a proverb often voiced in song, and a selfish and debased living gave an excuse to the Ahabs of the time, to despoil and appropriate Naboth's Vineyard for themselves ; side by side with this the Church at large is marked by error in doctrine, no less than by viciousness of life. Luther hfted up his voice in indignant protest in the 15th century, and the tide of what we know as " The Reformation " set in, and in due time reached Scotland. John Knox, a parish priest, " a Minister of the Holy Altar," feels its influence. Driven abroad for the part he took with some rebel spirits of the time, he returns A.D. 1559 to his country. It is not my purpose, of course, to write a history of that troubled time, I only cull from the Bishop of Aberdeen's most interesting booklet (which I commend to those who desire to grasp the facts) what bears upon Kilmaveonaig in the 16th century. In the two centuries after the Battle of Bannockburn we see the gradual growth of those forces which we have now before us — the growth of ignorance and turbulence amongst the nobles (whose best blood had been shed in the wars with England, especially on Flodden Field), and the generation which followed being, to a great extent, " ignorant and uncultured, of headstrong character and disloyal to principles, caring only for their own aggrandisement." The boast of James I. that " if God spared his life, there should not be a spot in his kingdom where the key should not keep the castle, and the furze bush the cow," suited not the lawless spirit in the land, and his brutal murder was the result in Perth, A.D. 1437. In Church matters, things were no better. We see the growth of avarice on the part of Pope, king, and nobles, specially in the usurpation of church patronage ; KILMAVEONAIG RESTORED 53 with a celibate clergy often openly immoral in their lives, and giving to the king the things not only that were Caesar's, but also those due to the King of Glory, the only Head of the Church — and with luxury, sloth and laxity in the Monasteries, while outside them real religion was starved and neglected, what wonder that righteous wrath was roused among the people ! but the wrath of fallen man never has, and never will, except as God's sword, " work the righteousness of God." It is indeed a dark picture. Let us note now the strange story with the chief dates, which culminated in the Revolution A.D. 1689. A.D. 1560, John Knox preached his famous sermon in S. John's, Perth, which roused his hearers to begin the work of destruction ; this was in May, but the Re- formers found they had to deal with a French King who helped the Catholic party, so the Reformers appealed to England for aid, and war followed, but a treaty was made at Edinburgh on July 8th, at which it was stipulated that " the question concerning reUgion should be settled by a meeting of Parliament " ; at this only a few ecclesiastics were present, and when the petition was pre- sented, craving for reformation in doctrine, discipline, the administration of Sacraments, the power of the Pope, and the patronage of the Church, the Bishops were silent (well earning, alas, Knox's epithet of dumb dogs), and thus on August 17th, 1560, Parliament set aside the old Catholic order for the new system, viz., Superintendents (in place of the Bishops), Ministers, and Readers, which last we shall find referred to in our notes later on. The words of the Earl Marischal will make clear to us the attitude, or rather the inaction of the Bishops at this time which helped to bring about the Reformation. " Seeing that my Lords the Bishops, who for their learning can, and — for their zeal that they should bear to the verity — would, as I suppose, gainsay anything that 54 FACTS & FANCIES ABOUT KILMAVEONAIG directly impugns the verity of God — seeing, I say my Lords the bishops speak nothing to the contrary of the doctrine proposed, I cannot but hold it to be the very truth of God, and the contrary to be deceivable doctrine. And yet more, I must vote, as it were by way of pro- testation, that if any persons ecclesiastical shall, after this, oppose themselves to this our Confession, they have no place or credit, considering that they, having long advisement and full knowledge of this our Confession, none is now found in this lawful, free, and quiet Parliament to oppose themselves to that which we profess." After the 17th day of August, 1560, the Pope's authority and jurisdiction in Scotland were abolished, all former Acts of Parliament contrary to the Confession and God's Word were rescinded, and the administration of the Sacraments was restricted to those admitted for that purpose, mass being forbidden under penalty of confiscation of goods for the first offence, banishment for the second, and death for the third. It is a sad fact that the Medieval Church of Scotland passed away " unable to raise one brave word of defence or testimony, with no one bishop or priest ready to lay down his life on her behalf, falling to the ground, dis- honoured, disinherited, and undone." But the coming of Queen Mary from France, on the death of her husband, Francis, did something to stem the tide of reform, and it became clear as time went on that the new system was not a success, and A.D. 1572 (20 years after Knox's sermon), the Convention of Leith was held — a meeting of Superintendents, Commissioners, and Ministers — the chief act of which was to restore in name Episcopacy ; this was known as Titular Episco- pacy, i.e. the Bishops had their titles, but they were sub- ject to the General Assembly, and Consecration of the Bishop was disregarded as non-essential. The acceptance by Robert Montgomery of a vacant See offered by the Duke KILMAVEONAIG RESTORED 55 of Lennox (who kept the revenues for himself, only paying a yearly stipend of £80), gave rise to the name " Tulchan Bishops," which was thus explained by the Moderator in the Assembly, A.D. 1639 : "When a cow will not give her milk, they stuff a calf's skin full of strae and set it down for the cow," and that was called a Tulchan ; so these Bishops, possessing the tithes and the benefits without the office, they wist not what name to give them, and so they called them " Tulchan Bishops." This pseudo-Episcopacy found its champion in Patrick Adamson, Archbishop of St. Andrews, and a vigorous opponent in Andrew Melville, who came off victorious, and on the petition of the Assembly, Parliament formally established Presbyterianism in Scotland. But Episcopacy was not quite driven out ; four years later the influence of Melville and his party was on the wane, and the way was prepared, little by little, for the establishment of a vahd Episcopacy. James VI. succeeded to the throne of England, but the Hampton Court Conference, A.D. 1604, expressed his opinion of Presbyterianism with force and freedom, and we find that in A.D. 1610 the Assembly of Glasgow restored Episco- pacy, and shortly after that three titular Bishops were duly consecrated in London by the Bishops of London — Ely, Rochester, and Worcester — thus for a time Episco- pacy was restored, and with tact and patience the Presby- terians might have gradually looked with favour on Episcopacy of the " Ignatian model " ; " Martin Mar- prelate " might have shown himself not otherwise than " Philo-Episcopus," but the high-handed autocratic rule of James and his son Charles, again roused the dis- contented and rebellious spirit, and the introduction of the Scottish Liturgy, A.D. 1637, hy Royal Proclamation at the Market Crosses of Scotland, was the spark which lit the flame of revolt, and the Assembly of Glasgow, A.D. 1638, condemned Episcopacy, which from 1638 to 56 FACTS & FANCIES ABOUT KILMAVEONAIG 1660 was silent and crushed into inaction ; however, Cromwell takes matters into his owa hands, and disbands the General Assembly, A.D. 1653, and his death A.D. 1658, was soon followed by the Restoration, and by the re-establishment of Episcopacy, both in England and Scotland ; Douglas, the Presbyterian leader, declared in a letter written A.D. 1660 that " the generality of this new upstart generation have no love to Presbyterian government, but are wearied of that yoke, feeding them- selves with a fancy of Episcopacy or moderate Epis- copacy." A.D. 1661, four Bishops, James Sharp of Crail, Andrew Fairfoul of Duns, James Hamilton of Cambuskenneth, ministers in those places, and Robert Leighton, Principal of Edinburgh University, were consecrated in London (Sharp and Leighton being first ordained to the diaconate and priesthood). These with Sydserf, the sole survivor from A.D. 1638, and Wishart and Mitchell, two exiled Episcopalians, formed a restored Episcopacy ; but " wisdom was not " that by which the restored King reigned, and the accession of James II., A.D. 1685, as an avowed Romanist, soon revived the hatred of Protestants, and they hailed with joy the landing of William of Orange, November 5, 1688, which brought about the conflict between Scottish Catholics and Presbyterians, culminating in the Revolution, A.D. 1689 ; this we must consider in the next chapter. The following extracts will show the working of the system of the General Assembly at Blair AthoU, the office of Reader being part of that system : — From " The Miscellany of the Wodrow Society " Vol. 1. p. 356. The Register of Ministers and Readers in the year 1574. Cluny, Kilmawenok, Blair in AthoU, Strowane, Lude, Rannoch. L89 6 8 16 k.l. &c. 16 k.I. &c. KILMAVEONAIG RESTORED 57 Maister John Bartane, minister, Johnne Neillis, reidare at Cluny, Johnne Leslie, reidare at Kilmavenok Alexander Stewart (and Thomas Currour) reidare at Blair in Atholl, 16 Duncane Robertson, reidare at Strowan, 14 17 9^ k.l. &c. George Makintosche, reidare at Ludc, 16 k.l. &c. Patrik Williamson, reidare at Rannoch, 20 merks k.l. &c. In the outer columns " k.l." stands for kirk-land ; and " &c." implies that some kind of victual was paid in addition to the stipend in money. From " Old Statistical Account of Scotland " Vol. 11. p. 461. Article on Parishes of Blair-Atholl and Strowan by the Rev. Mr. James M'Lagan. — 1792. These parifhes commonly go by the name of the united parifhes of Blair Atholl, and Strowan. They confifted formerly of the parifhes of Blair-Atholl, Strowan, Lude, and Kilmaveonog. Blair (Blar) properly fignifies a plain, clear of woods and other incumbrances ; but the Celtae, of whom the Gael were a branch, in general, chufing fuch plains for their fields of battle, Blar came at length to fignify a battle. Strowan (Sruthain) fignifies ftreams, fo called from the confluence of the Garry and the Erochty at that place. Thefe ftreams feem to have given that parifh its name, and Robertfon of Strowan, (in Englifh, Robertfon of the Streams), his title. Kil- maveoneg, fignifies the place of worfhip or burial place of St. Eonog, or Veonog. Lude (Le'oid) feems to fignify declivities, where a plough could bring a furrow only one way. 58 FACTS & FANCIES ABOUT KILMAVEONAIG This list of names of persons appointed to be " Readers " after 1560 when Episcopacy was suppressed is taken from Dr. How Scott's " Fasti Ecclesiae Scoti- lanae," Vol. ii., page 704. KILMAVEONAIG. 1576. THOMAS M'GIBBOUN trans from Moneydie ; Blair-Athole, Strowane, Lude, Rannoch, Moneydie, and Kinclevin being also in the charge. He was re-trans to Moneydie after 1580 (Reg. Assig). MONEYDIE. Was disjoined from the Presb. of Dunkeld and annexed to that of Perth by the Gen. Assembly, 3rd June, 1578. 1567. THOMAS ROBERTSON, alias MAKGIBBON removed from Auchtergavin pres. to the parsonage of this par. by James VI 2nd Jan. 1574. Kin- clevin and Auchtergavin were also in the charge, trans, to Kilmaveonag prior to 1576, but returned to Moneydie without other addition on his pres. to the Vicarage by the King 8th May 1583 ; he removed to Moulin in 1595, but returned and died in July 1596 ; His buikis were estimat at jc. merks, uten- cills and domicillis xx li, Frie geir d.d. iijc. Ixxxvj li. vje. He married Barbara Justice who survived him and had a son William, and a daughter Violet. LUDE. The parish was supplied by GEORGE MAKIN- TOSCHE, reader from 1574 till A.D. 1627. (Reg. Pres. and Assig. Test. Reg. Wodrow Miscell &c.). A.D. 1627. This date is found on a Bell in the Belfry which still peals over " hill and dale " and as the inscrip- tion shows, was originally put up in the Church of Little Dunkeld. The inscription is as follows — "W. Glas. min. Bell from Dunkeld. Inscription— "W. Glas. Miii., Lit. Diukeld. A.D. 1629. KILMAVEONAIG RESTORED. 59 lit. Dinkel 1627." The story goes that Mrs. Glas, wife of the minister gave a bell to her husband's church, but on his forsaking the old paths she said the bell shall not ring for Presbyterian service, and the Bell was apparently sold to Kilmaveonaig, and thus we have the privilege of having an ancient bell which links us with "Auld Lang Syne." The following lines — certainly not evidencing a re- verence for holy things — in rude verse, are supposed to refer to our bell : — Oh, such a people, oh, such a people. Oh such a people of Little Dunkcld ; They have stickit their minister, Drooned their Precentor, Dung doon the Steeple, And druncken the Bell. We are glad to be able to give the accompanying photograph of the bell, and if the above story be true, it shows that at this time strife had entered even into Christian homes. Having given this short sketch of these troubled times, we now give some details of the Robertson Clan, commonly kno^NTi as Clan Donnachie. They are the most numerous Clan in Atholl, and by tradition they are said to be a branch of the Macdonalds of the Isles, and to have made their way into the Atholl district towards the end of the reign of William the Lion, who died A.D. 1214. The eldest Cadet of the house was Patrick Robertson, of Ludc. He seems to have acquired the lands of Lude as his property and barony about A.D. 1358, and to their influence as old landed proprietors, we, in God's good Providence, owe our possession of our " unique " Church. I propose not, of course, to write a history of the Clan, for which I have neither the knowledge nor 60 FACTS & FANCIES ABOUT KILMAVEONAIG the space, but only to give such details as are linked with the memorial dates preserved in the walls of our " Holy and beautiful House," wherein our fathers praised God and which — like that in Jerusalem where God had placed His Name — was, in the troublous times, " burnt with fire " (Isa. Ix.). The dates are as follows : — 1. On the South Wall— A.R.A.G., 1591. 2. The death of Alexander Robertson their son, in 1639, is recorded on a stone mentioned later on. 3. On four wooden Tablets in order of date (now recorded on one Oak Tablet and placed on the North side of the Sanctuary) as follows : — Alexander Robertson died 1673 Buried here. His wife, Cath Campbell, sister of the Earl of Breadalbane ., 1699 ,, Finlarig. Their coat-of-arms is on a stone slab on the north wall. John Robertson died 1731 Buried here. His wife Marg. Farquhar- son, of Invercauld, ., 1751 r John Robertson and ., 1741 -| his wife the Hon. Char- l lotte Nairn 1785 {James Robertson and ., 1803 Margaret Mercer of Aldie his wife „ 1802 Col. J. Robertson their 2nd son „ 1820 KILMAVEONAIG RESTORED 61 Gen, William Robertson died 1820 Buried here. Margaret Haldane of Glen- eagles his first wife ,, 1805 ,, William James Robertson 2nd son of Gen. Robert- son ,, 1813 „ Col. J. A. Robertson their eldest son „ 1874 A brief sketch of the Robertsons of Ludc will be interesting to our readers. The first ancestor of the family (I quote from the "Earldom of AthoU " by J. A. Robertson) was ANDREW de ATHOLIA, which title he would hold as being in the Earldom of Atholl, who must have been the proprietor within the Earldom in the 13th century ; his grandson, Robert, said to be so named by the desire of King Robert the Bruce, had property pro- bably consisting of the two Parishes of Strowan and Lude and Strath Tummel (also a Feu Charter in the reign of David II. records a Grant to Andrew of the lands of Dischenar and Twchenar* (Disher and Toyer) , the present Kenmore parish. His son Duncan also got a Charter for the lands of ApnaduU from John Bishop of Dunkeld, A.D. 1355. They are contiguous to the property of Dull, and the Bishop and Chapter of Dunkeld had rights in them. This Duncan also got extensive estates in Rannoch and Fortingall by his first wife — according to tradition a daughter of Malcolm, Earl of Lennox. Duncan by his second marriage (as stated in the lona Club transactions) to a daughter of Angus More, Lord of the Isles, had by her — 1. Patrick de Atholia, who got the property of Lude from his Father. • Disher meaas with South aspect, and Toyer looking North. 62 FACTS & FANCIES ABOUT KILMAVEONAIG 2. Thomas de Atholia, who had a Crown Charter from Robert III. for the lands of Strowan. 3. Gibbon. The Robertsons of Strowan, the head of the Clan (known as the Clan Donnachaidh) appear to have had their first dwelling-house at Strowan from which place the Chief takes his name. The site of the old House known as Tigh-na-mohr on an artificial mound can still be seen ; their next family-house was Inverack on the south side of the river from Blair Castle, where the site of the old house can be seen a little to the West of Inverack Farm. Then mention must be made of John Robertson who, after the battle of Pinkie in 1547, married Beatrix Gardyn, widow of Findlay More, and his son, Alexander Robertson, acquired the lands of Kilmorick (by the Ratification by Colin Campbell of Glenlyon), given to him and his spouse Agnes Gordon by his eldest son, Duncan Campbell. This Alexander Robertson and his wife are the two whose initials are in the stone already mentioned ; he was the first to give up patronymics (the using his father's name in addition to his own). In 1565 he entered into a bond with the Duke of Atholl to defend each other, and he acquired the Church lands of the Bishopric of Dunkeld from Queen Mary. Their grandson, Alexander, married Catharine, daughter of Sir J, Campbell of Glenorchy, and sister of the first Earl of Breadalbane (see Memorial Tablet). He raised 3000 men for Gustavus of Sweden A.D. 1627, and he was called to the Privy Council at Holyrood A.D. 1633. It must be noted that the reason for rebuilding the Church in 1591 was evidently that the Robertsons had shortly before that moved from the mansion-house of Balnagrew, near Kirkton of Lude, which then was allowed to go to ruin, and the present house was built. KILMAVEONAIG RESTORED 63 Then his son, Alexander Robertson, died very sud- denly in 1639 at Dulcaben (Dalcapon), and the deaths of himself and his mother, Agnes Gordon, are recorded on the stone in the following curious terms : — HEIR LYIS HONORABIL PERSONS AGNES GORDON SPOVS TO ALEX? ROBERTSON OF INCHMACRANOCH DOCHTER LAV ^ (D FVL TO THE LARD ABERGELDY DECESSIT < ^ CO oc 9DECMBI634: ANDANEVORTH J > O g E MAN ALEXANDER ROBERTSON THAIR SO Q Z N LAIRD OF LVDE ^ MAREIT HIS TVA DOCHTERS VEIL DESSIT IN GREAT FAME FAVR AND VELTH 3 FEB 1639 Alexander Robertson, son of the last-named Alex- ander Robertson, though quite a youth, joined the great Montrose and was with him at Tippermuir, as the Master of Madderty and others in their evidence state they saw him in Highland " weeds." This Laird was served heir to his father (owing to the state of the times) by a Colonel Daniel who was Cromwell's Governor at Perth. (As recorded in Lude Charter Chest). John Robertson, his only son, succeeded him, and was only a few years in possession when he died, leaving 64 FACTS & FANCIES ABOUT KILMAVEONAIG five children, his eldest son, James Robertson, a minor. This Laird was 62 years in possession, and was succeeded by his eldest son, General Robertson, by whom the Estate of Lude was sold in 1820 to the father of Mr. J. P. M'Inroy, whose son is now the Laird of Lude. Here it is of interest to note that the first so-called Robert of Strowan was the son of Duncan de Atholia, designed Dominus de Rannoch, so called because of his large possessions. In 1436 he is mentioned as having apprehended some of the murderers of King James I., and A.D. 1451 he got a Crown Charter for all his estates in which King James II. speaks in very flattering terms of him, stating that he grants the Charter for the love and favour he bore to Robert in having with much zeal arrested the traitors concerned in his father's murder. For this he received the honourable augmentation to his coat of arms of a " man in chains " and as motto, the words, "Virtutis gloria merces." Wc now give briefly the details about the family of Lude. Donald, eldest son of Patrick, was succeeded by his son, John, who got the Charter under the Great Seal, creating the lands of Lude into a Barony proceeding on his father's resignation, dated March 31st, 1448. The Barony of Lude is stated to be within the Thanedom of Glentilt, and contained Lude, Brae of Lude, Little Lude, and Kirkton of Lude, the lands of Dalginross and Campsie, of Brakochs, Kincraigie, the two Molochs, and Toldunie Easter and Easter Monzie, Shinigag More and Beg, Aldtalloch and Carryneroch, Urrard More and Beg, Cluniemore and Cluniebeg, Levages (now Strathgroy), Kindrochet Balnagrew (here the mansion-house of Lude had been for a very long period), Balnakeilly, Balanot, these all forming the two parishes of Lude and Kilma- veonaig within the Thanedom of Glentilt and the Earldom of AthoU. KILMAVEONAIG RESTORED 65 In this chapter wc have realised our Church life up to the Revolution, and have sketched the history of the Robertson Clan, whose position in the country preserved us through the terrible stress of penal laws, which is related in the next chapter. CHAPTER VI. KILMAVEONAIG UNDER THE PENAL LAWS, A.D. 1689-1792. In the previous chapter we saw the struggle going on between the Scottish Catholics and the Covenanters, but the abdication of King James, and the landing of William of Orange filled the latter with fresh hope of the triumph of their cause. The strife of the last century or more had created a thirst for revenge in both parties, which either party was seeking to satisfy when occasion serv^ed ; and the close of A.D. 1688 saw the Church party very roughly handled by their opponents. Christmas time in particular was anything but " a time of peace to men of goodwill." Some 300 clergy were driven from their homes and their furniture often destroyed. About this time Bishop Rose went to London and met the king at Whitehall, who said to him, " I hope you will be kind to me, and follow the example of England," meaning that they were to acknowledge him as King. The Bishop replied, " Sir, I will serve you as far as the law, reason, or conscience shall allow me." The Bishop felt that the king looked upon this as refusing his claim to allegiance, so he returned to Scotland, and he and the other Bishops refused to take the oath of allegiance to William and his heirs. This sealed the fate of Episcopacy, and at the Parliament which assembled in Edinburgh to pro- claim William king it was declared that the government by Bishops was " contrary to the inclination of the generality of the people." Then came the appeal to arms in the Pass of Killie- crankie. The Battle of Killiecrankie, July 27, 1689, between UNDER THE PENAL LAWS 67 Graham of Claverhouse with his Highlanders and the English soldiers under General Mackay (in which "Bonnie Dundee," though victorious, lost his life), sealed the fate of our Church. It is said that he was wounded by a bullet shot from Urrard as he was holding up his hand to give a signal to his men. With this the fortunes of the Stuarts were doomed, and at the same time the old Church of Scotland was replaced by the Presbyterian form of govern- ment as the National Church. Dundee, who lived only twenty minutes after he was shot, was carried along the old military road which went past the village of Kil- maveonaig (lying to the west of the Church) across the old bridge of Tilt, to Old Blair, and was buried in the vault in the Church. The inscription can be seen on the wall. The present Factor's house stands on the site of the old Village Inn. The death of " Bonnie Dundee " having sealed the fate of the Jacobite cause, Parliament in the next year formally established Presbyterianism in the country, and the clergy were ejected from their parishes, but only very slowly in the country north of the Tay. In A.D. 1695 an Act was passed by Parliament forbidding " outed " ministers, i.e. ministers ejected from charges to baptize or marry, the penalty threatened being im- prisonment or perpetual exile. As time went on Pres- byterianism gradually made its way even in the districts which were the stronghold of the church. The accession of Queen Anne, A.D. 1702, brought us more toleration, and A.D. 1712 the Toleration Act passed the British Parliament, securing to members of the Epis- copal Church in Scotland the right to the worship of God as " in the old paths," provided that the clergy officiating had taken the oaths, and would pray for the Sovereign during Divine service. About A.D. 1705, " the five surviving Bishops determined to consecrate two of their clergy to keep up the succession, and thus laid the founda- 68 FACTS & FANCIES ABOUT KILMAVEONAIG tion of that great company of Missionary and other Bishops (notably Bishop Seabury, consecrated in Aber- deen, November 14, 1784) who, in our day, represent Christ in every land, in a church free, and deriving none of their authority to rule from either King, Parliament, or State." But alas, this time of toleration is once more disturbed by the Jacobite Rising of 1715, during the first year of the reign of George I. At the Battle of Sheriffmuir, the victory again lay with the Government, and on the line of march the public devotions were conducted by our clergy, and this marked out the Church as an object of attack. A.D. 1719, a Law was passed making it penal for any clergyman to officiate where nine or more persons were present in addition to his own household, without praying for King George and abjuring the exiled Stuarts. Thirty years later, A.D. 1745, Prince Charles Edward made a last attempt to win back the kingdom for the Stuarts, " seeking," he said, " a crown or a coffin." It will be interesting here to insert extracts from the Lude papers, and other papers sent me, which give some details of local persons and events. Mr. Meldrum, late parish minister at Logierait, sent me the following notes about Church matters at this time : — " For some years after 1688, the four churches of Blair Atholl, Struan, Old Lude, and Kilmaveonaig, continued to be separately used, and I should say that the Presbyterian form of worship became at once established in the two former, while Episcopacy held on to the two latter. I am not sure as to the date when the four Churches were united under the designation of Blair Atholl and Struan, anyhow old Lude and Kilmaveonaig Churches were shunted off by the Heritors as not re- quired, while the Laird of Lude — Robertson — chose UNDER THE PENAL LAWS 69 to take, or rather was tacitly allowed to take a personal interest in Kilmaveonaig, and with the co-operation of neighbours (notably Urrard, Faskally, Kynaehan, etc.) he carried it on on his own account. After the Union of the Parishes, all the Presbyterians in Blair Atholl worshipped either at Old Blair, or at Struan, and the Parish Minister officiated at the two places. The Church at Old Blair continued in use for Presbyterians, and they regularly worshipped there until the present Church was I think, erected in 1823. From this date, the Old Blair Church was disused. Here follow notes of the Stewart family, three mem- bers of which seem to have had charge of Kilmaveonaig in succession for more than a century. " From A.D. 1660-1689 Episcopacy was in the ascendency in Scotland, the ministers of Blair Atholl (the parish united about A.D. 1632) for this period were probably Episcopalians. A.D. 1614 Walter Stewart was then incumbent of Blair Atholl, and had also under his care Lude, Struan, and Kilmaveonaig. He died be- tween 1643 and 1647. There exists a paper headed, 'Proof taken by Alexander Robertson of Lude before the Rev. Walter Stewart, Minister of Blair in Athol, dated at Invertilt, 10th Sept., 1621 ' ; ' Isobell Peibles Relict.' Then there is mention of a Walter Stewart of Orchill having been ejected at the Revolution, 1688-9, from the incumbency of Blair Atholc who 'Carried on services in the Chapel at Aldclune till his death, 1727,' but the name Walter may have been confused with that of Duncan, for in Sinclair's " Schiehallion," page 280, the following reference is made to Duncan Stewart : — " The Rev. Duncan Stewart, M.A., ancestor of the present Stewart of Inverchadden in Rannoch and of Strathgarry in Atholc. Parson Duncan was the second son of the Laird of 70 FACTS & FANCIES ABOUT KILMAVEONAIG. Invernachyle, and so was the cadet of the Stewarts of Appin. In 1690 he was obliged to leave the Parish of Dunoon, of which he was minister, on account of his avowed attachment to his great chief, the exiled king, and he came to reside in Blair Athole, in the Church of Kilmaveonaig he continued to officiate till his death in 1730 (1727 ?). He was an able man and an accomplished scholar, and aspiring to be a political leader as well as a preacher of the Gospel, he exercised an immense influence over the Jacobites of Perthshire, and was largely respon- sible for the rising of 1715. He even went so far as to read the Chev^alier's Proclamation from the pulpit of Kilmaveonaig. This warlike parson was a man of means, and, when in the early part of 1703, the Marquis of Athole had intimation given him that he was to be raised to the Dukedom, it was the Revd. Duncan that supplied him with the ready money required for the journey to London, and to defray the expenses connected with the investiture. For this money Mr. Stewart obtained in security wadsetts over Inverchadden in Rannoch and Strathgarry in Athole, and these lands were in 1738 ac- quired by the Stewarts in freehold property." A.D. 1728 a Walter Stewart is invited by the Congre- gation to come from Doune, and in the Lude Papers, we have two amusing letters, the first not sent, as having some expressions not quite respectful, inviting Walter Stewart to come from Doune to be their Minister. The two letters are as follows : — To the Rev. Walter Stewart Minister oftJie Gospel att Doun Deverend Sir After several Meetings of the Gentlemen concerned in our Meeting House we have all unanimously made choice of you as the properest and most acceptable to be UNDER THE PENAL LAWS 71 our Pastor And therefore now for ourselves and in the name of the Gentlemen and Commons of our Meeting House in the Parish of Blair Athole (Kilmaveonaig) doo hereby most heartily call and invite you to be our Minister. And for your encouragement we promise you £25 sterling yearly to be paid out of our hand — which is as much as you get where you are. We expect your satisfactory answer with the Bearer. Our Congregation is very much to be simpathised with by all good Men and we are hope- ful! that the good Gentlemen you live amongst (tho they may be sorry to part with you) will not only part with you willingly, but press your coming to such a Congregation as we have which may by the Blessing of God be for the good of Church and State. We know no scruples you may have against coming if it is not being out of use of the Irish tongue, but you'll soon overcome that difficulty by a little practice and in the meantime your English discourse will attone sufficiently for that little defect. And your countrymen hope now that we unanimously make choice of you that you'l frankly imbrace this our cordial Invitation home to your Native Country and prevent our asking the Interposition of the Bishop's Authority which we are determined to have if you refuse our kindly call We are, Reverend Sir, Your most humble Servants (Signed) J. Robertson of Lude „ A. Robertson of ffaskaliie John Stewart of Kynachan Blair Athole, October 19th 1728 72 FACTS & FANCIES ABOUT KILMAVEONAIG This rather imperious call seems not to have been sent, doubt being expressed as to its being quite respectful in a letter written by Lude's Son to Faskally as follows : — Sir Before Kynachan went from the place he took occasion to shew me a letter writ to Mr. Walter Stewart and after reading it once or twice he and my Father tho they both signed were satisfied there were some expressions in it not over seemly to a Minister such as "And for your encouragement we promise you £25 sterling which is as much as you get where you are " and to mention but one more "And prevent our asking the Interposition of the Bishop's Authority " before he had once refused their kindly call and they agreed that there should be another letter writ a draught whereof is sent enclosed which if you like you may sign if not appoint a time and place where you and my Father may cause another be writ to both your likings. Hoping you'll pardon this trouble and be so good as offer all our Services to your Lady and Family. I only add that I am Sir Your affectionate Cousin and most humble Servant LuDE, October 22nd 1728 Copy of ' draught ' Reverend Sir Tho ever since the death of our late Minister we have had an eye on you as the properest person and most acceptable to the generality of those concerned in our Meeting House of Athole. Yet having reason to believe that your present auditory would be very unwilling to part with you and you as loath to leave them we have hitherto deferred writing to you upon the subject but now UNDER THE PENAL LAWS. 73 since we see the difficulty of finding any other of equal merit who knows the language and genius of the people we take upon us in the name of all the Gentlemen and others of our persuasion in this Country to call and invite you to be our Minister and hope the desire of promoting the universal good of the Church will make the Gentlemen with whom you now reside not only forgive but even forward our proposal for we are persuaded they'd be sorry to see so considerable a number who incline to adhere to the Church disappointed of so laudable a Design as that of having a Minister amongst them. You may perhaps be apprehensive of being molested by those who are disaffected to our Party but we see no reason why you should entertain any such thought for not to mention some circumstances which we reckon will secure you our late Minister lived without any Distur- bances of the kind. It is true he had some difficulty in uplifting his small salary from several hands but now we have resolved upon an effectual method of preventing that trouble to his Successor by making one of the number answerable for £25 sterling a year. We expect an answer by Bearer and if you incline to comply with our desire which we earnestly wish we make no doubt of the Bishop's concurrence. Meanwhile we are Reverend Sir Your most humble Servants Signed by Lude Faskally and Kynachan To the Rev. Walter Stewart Minister of the Gospel at Doun in Monteith Note. — Apparently this last letter was sent and favourably answered, the Settlement bearing date October 29th 1728. 74 FACTS & FANCIES ABOUT KILMAVEONAIG The above-mentioned Walter Stewart was probably nephew to Walter Stewart, his predecessor in the charge at Kilmaveonaig, and brother of the Laird of Orchill. The hope expressed in the letter inviting him to come back to his native country — that he would not be molested — was not realised, for he was put in prison in 1752 for Nonconformity. He is frequently mentioned in Parish Records as having condoned culprits who were under Church discipline in neighbouring parishes. Above the village of Aldclune, the site of the chapel at Aldclune is made into a garden, but there remains an enclosure with tombstones, one of which is thus marked ; — C.S. 1760, and a Lochaber Axe cut on it and is said to be the tomb of a sister of the above- mentioned Walter Stewart. The portrait we here present to our readers there seems good reason for believing to be that of either Duncan Stewart or this Walter Stewart who succeeded him. The portrait was bought by Mrs. Douglas of Killiechasie at the sale of the effects of the late Walter Stewart of Kynachan, on September 19, 1877, in Aberfeldy, and Mrs. Douglas kindly had it photographed for me. The portrait, there- fore, is evidently that of an ancestor of the owner of the portrait, and by his dress being evidently a minister, it seems probable that it was that of one of these Stewarts, who were such strong personalities. The following notes were sent to Dr. Howard about a Miss E. Stewart, evidently a descendant of the above- mentioned Walter Stewart : — 3rd June, 1872. " The late Miss Elizabeth Stewart's Father was Charles Stewart, who married Euphemia, daughter of Stewart of Bohally. Her paternal Grandfather wais Niel Supposed Portrait of the Rev. Duncan Stewart, ■■:ho read the Chevalier'^ rrorldiiiatii^ii in Kilnim'eonain, A.D. 171S. UNDER THE PENAL LAWS. 75 Stewart, and his Father, Chas. Stewart, was a younger Son of Stewart of Urchil (a Family now extinct in Athole) ; this Charles Stewart was Brother of the Rev. Walter Stewart, the nonjuring Clergyman of Kilmaveonaig. Walter Stewart was married and had one Son, ' who was a Captain in the 42nd Regt. and died without issue ' ; and two Daughters, one was married to M'Duff of the M'Duffs of Balinloan in Strathbran and had a Family who predeceased her. The other Daughter (yet remem- bered by the very old people of the Country) was Miss Betty Urchil, and a strong-minded, clever, but eccentric woman." These extracts show that Kilmaveonaig was in the person of her clergy closely linked with the cause of the Stuarts. Prince Charles Edward is said to have honoured Lude with a visit, where he spent the night preceding his appearance at Dunkeld en route to Edin- burgh. His last attempt to win the Kingdom being a failure, the result was the passing of a more severe Act of Parliament, A.D. 1746, which made it illegal for one of our clergy to minister to a congregation of more than five persons, the penalty this time extending to the con- gregation also, so that the clergy had the choice be- tween the oath, a convict settlement, or imprisonment for life ; the sting in this Act was that it included the laity, who were not only liable to a fine, but were cut off from all civil and official employment, e.g. from a seat in Parliament, or the right to vote. The severity of these penalties proved too much for some congregations, and with little backbone and less conscience they consented to take the oath and to pray for the King in public worship, and so were called " English." This title later on, as also the gradual use of the English Prayer-book in Scot- land, led to the Scottish Church being called English, even when these lapsed congregations had returned to link themselves again to the Scottish Church on the 76 FACTS & FANCIES ABOUT KILMAVEONAIG repeal of the Penal Laws. We still have some trouble in repudiating the name " English " and in claiming for ourselves to be a native church in our " ain countrie," not exotic, but hardy enough to have endured keen blasts of persecution, often " seven times heated in the furnace," and ever remaining true to the Faith of our Fathers. That clergy and people were true is proved at least in one case, by the act of one of our clergy in Stonehaven Gaol, baptizing from the prison bars an infant held up to him in a fish creel, of which we give a portrait. This dark picture, and it is dark, has its bright side, as has always been seen in human life, for necessity is found to be the mother of invention ; it is true that our churches were burnt by the English soldiers, as in the case of Kilmaveonaig and at Aldclune after 1745 (Aldclune was then on the Lude estate, there was also a pre- reformation chapel at Old Faskally, of which the ruin is still to be seen ; it contains in the north side of the chancel a niche to hold the consecrated elements), yet many of the lairds and people were Episcopal and con- tinued so for many years — and when burnt out of their churches Mother Necessity suggested houses with several rooms opening into the hall, and by having five people in each room they could minister to thirty or forty people without infringing the Act. The Jacobites' way of drinking Prince Charlie's health is worthy of note as being extremely canny : — God bless the King, God bless the Faith's Defender ; God bless — there's na harm in blessing — the Pretender ; Wha the Pretender is and wha the King, God bless us all — that's quite another thing. The following extract from the Baptismal Register at Muthill is interesting : — " Gathering M'Laren, wife to Charles M'Glashan, Wright at Kilmaveonaig, Blair- Atholl Parish, and "Baptism from the Gaol oj Stonehaven, an iucidciit duriiin the persenition nf the Epixcopa/ Clev^v in ]74(-i. 'Many II child icas held up to the hriys nf the prison windoiv to receive the Grace of Ix'egeneration.' — Extract from ' The Prisoners of Craigmacaire,' " UNDER THE PENAL LAWS 77 Catherine M'GIashan, wife to Alexander M'Glashan, Wright in Dahiruick, Moulin Parish, who had been both only sprinkled in the schism were privately baptized at Kilmaveonaig before witnesses Charles M'Glashan and John M'Glashan on the 5th of April, 1787." Other similar cases follow. Canon Meredith wrote to me with regard to the entries : — " At one time it was proposed that Muthill should be cared for by the Priest, whose work already extended from Blair Athole to Appin ! and it occurs to mc that these baptisms may have taken place when that good man had departed, and Cruickshank (whose coming here saved, under God, our Congregation from extinction) may have gone on a journey to look after your folk. Bur perhaps you may know a better explana- tion. The case of baptism of those ' sprinkled in the schism ' is frequently entered in our register at this time." It is a case which shows how vainly one might sometimes look for entries in a local register. Who would have dreamed of looking in old Muthill register for baptisms at Kilmaveonaig ! There are references in Moulin Kirk sermons to immoral persons, renegades from discipline, repairing to the Rev. Walter Stewart at Aldclune for Baptism. These extracts indicate that there was no Episcopalian Clergyman resident in the neighbourhood in 1787. The words " sprinkled in the schism " were commonly used by the Scottish Church after the Revolution to express with some contempt, their opinion of the non- validity of Baptism under the new order. With what thankful hearts we now rejoice in the " Entente Cordiale," and our endeavour to keep the Unity of the Spirit in the Bond of Peace. We have buried the hatchet, and to our delight find the handle to be of olive wood, and a green sprout forecasts a Life of Peace. That Kilmaveonaig was not an utter ruin at this time 78 FACTS & FANCIES ABOUT KILMAVEONAIG is proved by the fact that in 1758 the family at Bonskeid came over the hill one Sunday to service, and some of them came to the Episcopal service. The famil}' returned, alas, to Bonskeid, to find it in flames. This is recorded in a memoir of Mrs. Sandeman by Mrs. Barbour. In this dark period when the Scottish Church is described as being reduced to " the shadow of a shade," we rejoice in having some Bishops as shining lights and true Fathers in God. Bishop Rattray (who died A.D. 1743) did a great work in printing the ancient Liturgy of St. James, which is the basis of our present Liturgy. A.D. 1722, Bishop Gadderar published a reprint of the Com- munion Office, this being the first of what were called " The Wee Bookies " ; the Liturgy of 1637 had been already used at Tranent. Soon there was a call for a print of the Services as commonly used. A.D. 1735, this demand was met by the venture of two printers. Other editions followed in 1752, 1759, and 1764, this last giving us the form most familiar to us. With the accession to the throne of George III., A.D. 1760, we see the dawning of peace on the horizon. The last of the House of Stuart passed away, A.D. 1788, and thus the Jacobites had no longer cause for refusing to take the oath to the reigning sovereign. In the next chapter we shall find the act passed which removed the Penalties hitherto in force. The following letters bearing upon the ministry of the Rev. George Robertson in Strathtay give us a glimpse full of interest into the difficulties in our Church life at the 1715 rising, and also of the appreciation of this ministry under such difficulties. They were copied from papers in the house at Edradynate into the Register in the Church at Strathtay, which was for a brief period in my care in A.D. 1904. The old spelling is very quaint, and to the ordinary reader not always intelligible. UNDER THE PENAL LAWS 79 Note. — The letters, though not in order of date, are inserted so as not to interrupt the Kilmaveonaig notes. What follows is a true copy of documents in possession of Stewart Robertson, Esq., of Edradynate. Copied this 29th day of May, 1872. Certified by ERNEST C. TOLLEMACHE, Priest in charge of the Church in Strath Tay. Reverend Brother, As I am much affected from the great discourage- ments yr congregation and Flock is put under so I cannot but greatly rejoice by finding them so stedfastly adhering to you and your ministrie and (as I am informed) their being so well satisfied with your officiating among them, wherefor seeing by the Divine providence and the ap- pointment of the Church such a worthy and well principled people ar fain under yr charge I hope as yow will apply yrself with all due care to feed them with all wholsom Doctrin, go befor them as a good example and patem of all manner of piety, so you will cleave closs by them with no Less stadfastness than they have adhered to yow, remembring that no man putting his hand to the plough and Looking back is fit for the Kingdom of God. I pray God to bless yr people yrself and yr Labours among them I am etc. etc. March 8th To Very affectionat brother 1715 the reverend & servant Mr Georg Robertson Alexr Edinburgen at Logierate 80 FACTS & FANCIES ABOUT KILMAVEONAIG By William Marquees of Tullibardinc. These are ordering & impowering you to preach every Lords day and other solemn occassions in the Church of Logyreat and to exercise all the other parts of the ministerial function within that parish as you be answerable at your Peril ffor doing of which this shall be to you a sufficient Warrant Given at Logyreat the 12th day of December 1715 years. To the Reverend Mr. George Robertson Tullibardinc Minister of the Gospel Scone March jr. 25th 1715. Rev. Sr. I have seen yours to Mr. Gerard bearing date ye 20th of this month ; it were a great injustice not to acknowledge that you have done eminent service to ye Church by preserving the meeting house in Logierait, & I'm sensible you have lay'd a particular obligation on all the friends of it who are concerned in that Parish. I have commenced a process for the Patronage, w'hich is still depending, as soon as my right is declar'd you may assure yourself I will employ' it for your encouragement ; in the meantime I desire you may send to Mr. Gerard a particular account of the proportions of Stipend that are pay'd by the several Heritors. I wish you all success in the good work you've engaged in & am To the Reverend Rev. Sr. Mr. George Robinson Your aff friend Minister of the Gospell & serv att Logereat Stormont UNDER THE PENAL LAWS 81 We George by the Mercy of Gd bishop off Aberdeen fforasmuch as Severall presbitors in the presbitry off Dunkeld hav examined and Tryed George Robertson Master of Arts in order to his being licensed to preach the Gospel and now hav reported that he was putt to several Try alls & exercises required and usuall in our Church. And in each of thes Tryalls had well acquited himself and given good satisfaction & is off a Christian sober liff & good Conversation — hcrupon he is recomended to us ther being no bishop off Dunkeld to grant him a licence to preach & therefore we hereby doe authorize the abov named Mr. Robertson to preach the Gospell and by these doe license him to preach wher he shall be legally and orderly calld for serving the this is WTit subd at Dunkeld March twenty fifth 1715 Geo. Aberdonen. We under Subscribers doe hereby bind and oblidge us our heirs Executors Intrometters with our goods and gear whatsomever to content and pay to Mr. George Robertson Minister of the Gospel at Lydnack or his Assigney yearly at terms of Whitsunday and Martinmas by equal portions the several proportions & Quotas of Stipend annexed to our respective Subscriptions during his preaching the Gospel to us our families tennents & followers every third Sunday at Culna-Sauch in Murlaggan. Be- ginning the first terms payment of the sd Stipend at the term of Martinmass next to come for this Current Years Service and to furth yearly thereafter, at the sds terms during his serving the Cure in manner foresaid and no longer consenting to the Registration hereof in the books of Council & Session or oyrs competent to have the strength of a decreet Interponed ther to that letters of Horning & oyrs necessary may pass hereon on Six days charge we ther to Constitute. F 82 FACTS & FANCIES ABOUT KILMAVEONAIG Our prors & in witnes whereof We have subscribed thir presents (writtn on Stampt paper by James Stewart in Inverhadden at Culna Sauch the Sixth day of August one thousand seven hundred & thirty two years Before these witnessess, David Stewart younger of Kynachan & Alexander Robertson son to Alex Robertson of Drum- achine. J. A. Stewart in Inverhadden for three pounds Seots Obligation owan & others to Mr. George Robertson 1732 A. Robertson of for five Jer S John Stewart of Kynachin twelve Pounds Scots Dun Robertson of Achleeks 6 lb. Scots. Alcxr Mackglashan two Pounds Scots enquire Niel Stewart in Lassentullich eleven pound Seots money Alexr Stewart in Inverhadden for three pounds Scots Pat c Robertson for two punds Scots John Mc Donald for two pund Scots money J. Stewart in Croftinloan for three pound Scotts. The first Jacobite rising, which took place shortly after the date of two of the above letters, no doubt made Mr. (Jeorge Robertson's ministry one of great difficulty and danger. UNDER THE PENAL LAWS 83 This Chapter may fitly be brought to a close by giving extracts from speeches made at a Conference in Perth in 1868, convened by the Bishop of S. Andrews, Dunkeld, and Dunblane, where testimony is given to our Scottish Church at the Revolution being in the majority, and to the hold it maintained in the early part of the 18th century, at least north of the Tay, over the popu- lation. " It must be observed that when Presbytery was re-established in Scotland at the Revolution, more than two-thirds of the people of the country, and most of the gentry were Episcopals ; the restoration of Presbytery by WiHiam being (he proceeds) chiefly owing to the Dukes of Argyle, Marchmont and Stair, and other leading nobles, who had suffered under Charles and James, and who had promoted the Revolution with all their interest and power" (thus Dr. Carlyle wrote). The Bishop spoke of the Number of Easter Communicants at Kilmaveonaig. " Our first duty is to arrest the dying out of congre- gations where they already exist, as in the case of Blair- Athole, where I find (from a former register of the Diocese) that not more than thirty years ago there was a return of nearly fifty communicants at Easter, a season which would imply that they were mostly, if not all, natives. From the same authority I learn that Strathtay and Tummel Bridge returned at the same time 76 com- municants. The Rev. Charles Robertson, of Rannoch and Tummell Bridge, referred to Church Membership at Rannoch. " In the memory of those still living, and who are members of the congregation, the Church in Rannoch 84 FACTS & FANCIES ABOUT KILMAVEONAICx embraced a vast numerical majority of the resident proprietors and others connected with the district. Sixty- years ago the roll of members and adherents in a thinly- peopled district numbered 180. Circumstances, however, over which the Church appears to have had no control, reduced this congregation to a minimum." He also referred to Prayer Book in Gaelic and English. " Traces of her former condition are still abundant in the district ; there is hardly a home there which has not its prayer-book in Gaelic and English, which is still regarded with something like veneration as an heirloom of the family." Lord Rollo spoke on the Hateful effect of the title " English " Church. " Nothing has more hindered the advance of our Church than its being looked upon as a mere offshoot of the Established Church of England, its members as those who, by education or subsequent ties, are members of the Church of England, and its houses of God as " English Chapels." If Episcopacy is to advance among our countrymen, it must present itself as an indigenous and national institution, an independent branch in this country (as the Church of England is in England) of the great Catholic Church of Christ." Testimony of General Mackay. " But I would beg to produce a testimony which is not so well known, viz., that given by the opponent of the great Dundee, General Mackay of Scourie, the op- ponent of him who met his death at Killiecrankie, >vith these words on his lips, ' For God and the Church of UNDER THE PENAL LAWS 85 Scotland.' He says in a letter written to the Laird of Grant, on the 4th of Dec., 1690, 'Let men flatter them- selves as they will, I tell you, who know Scotland, and where the strength and weakness of it doth lie, that if I were as much an enemy to the Presbyterian interest as I am a friend, I would engage to form in Scotland a more formidable party against it, even for their Majesties' Government (that is even in the Orange interest) than for it.' Thus much for ' Scouric' Mackay was a member of a Whig clan, and a Presbyterian. Now let us hear the testimony of one who, ecclesiastically, had no bias in either direction, although, politically, he was favourably disposed to Episcopacy, Viscount Tarbet, afterwards Earl of Cromartie. Writing in the summer of 1689, he says : ' The matter of Church Government hath been a pretence for the troubles of Scotland now for a hundred years. Episcopacy appears insufferable to a great party, and Presbytery is as odious to another. The Presbyterians are more jealous and hotter, the other more numerous and powerful." (Leven and Melville Papers, p. 125). The above quotations sound rather oddly when con- sidered in connection with the assertion, that the Scotch insisted on the establishment of Presbyterianism because it was more consonant with their genius and character than Episcopacy. We have now had the evidence of a minister, a soldier, and a politician. Let us hear the testi- mony of another Presbyterian minister, the accomplished historian of Moray, the Rev. Lachlan Shaw, who was born in 1690, and must, therefore, have been perfectly cog- nizant of the state of affairs in Church and State at the Revolution. I do not cite him so much with the view to prove the numerical superiority of Churchmen over Presbyterians at the Revolution, as to show what the opinion of a learned Presbyterian of less than two cen- turies ago was, as to the alleged unconquerable bias of the Scottish mind towards Presbyterianism. " It 86 FACTS & FANCIES ABOUT KILMAVEONAIG appears," he says, " that all along, since the Reformation, the Clergy looked upon Chureh government as alterable or ambulatory, or made little aeeount of the difference between Presbytery and Episcopacy, notwithstanding the wranglings about the jus divinum. The zealous Prelatists, before 1638, fully complied with Presbytery and the Covenant, and the bigoted Covenanters as readily complied with Prelacy in 1662. And if, at the Revolu- tion " — notice his words — " few conformed to Presbytery, it was because they were allowed their benefices for life, upon qualifying to the Civil Government." With these quotations, inserted here as collective evidence given at the Conference as summing up in 1868 our position in 1689 and afterwards, we propose to con- sider in the next chapter the Peace and renewed Church Life, resulting from the olive leaf brought over the Border on dove-like wings to us as now trusted loyal subjects. CHAPTER VII. KILMAVEONAIG REBUILT. A.D. 1792 was a red-letter year in the history of our Scottish Church. Since the accession of George III. (A.D. 1760) a hope of better things had sprung up. The Bishops and others had made an effort to get the Penal Acts repealed, and the dawn grew brighter, till at last, in the year of Grace, 1792, the Church found herself free to worship openly according to the dictates of con- science, and the Church that had been (through much tribulation) true to the Faith of her Fathers, proved her vitality by setting to work " to restore (rebuild) the waste places " ; this was so with us, for we read that Robertson of Strowan gave the timber, and the congre- gation worked with him. Soon after I became Rector I was in the vestry of our old church one day, and saw a piece of, what I thought waste paper lying there, but on taking it up I found it to be about a hundred years old, being the identical paper on which the joiner in 1794 had drawn his plan for the rebuilding of the Church, and on it were words in his own handwriting. I give a photo- graph of it, adding a copy of the writing, now not very legible, which is as follows : — Middletown Derculich, March 14, 1794 I Chas. Robertson, Mason on Clochfoldich ground do hereby declare that the plan contained in this sheet is the one referred to in my missive letter of this date to the Rev. Mr. Robertson in Middletown Derculich. As witness my hand Chas. Robertson, Mason 88 FACTS & FANCIES ABOUT KILMAVEONAIG Kilmaveonaig, March 15 1794 I John Stewart WTight declare that this is the plan referred to in my missive letter of this date to Mr. Robertson the amendments proposed by the said Mr. Robertson shall be done to his satisfaction Witness my hand Signed John Stewart. The east loft contains 66 persons at the Reat of 18 ins. Bottom to each person The west loft contains 42 persons at the same reat. The back gallery contains 44 at the reat of 17 ins. to each person. The low area contains 108 at the reat of 17 ins. to each Total of persons at the room above mentioned 258. The plan contains (a) the elevation ; [b) the gallery plan, with section of roof ; (c) the ground plan. The exact details as to the space allotted to each person — 17 inches in one gallery, 18 in another — puzzled me for a while, till someone said to me, "Why, it was the ' quality.' " "Of course," I said, " the laird and his friends had 18 inches, and the others 17 inches." Then the seating for 258 people by means of three galleries, one at the east, over what was called the " Robertson's vault " ; one at the west, which remains and is seen in one of the photographs ; and one on the north side, joining the other two — ^this surprised me till the present Laird kindly showed me in 1898 a copy of the minutes of the Session held about 1823, to decide on the site of a new Presbyterian Church, which was rendered necessary by the present high-road being made in 1820, When someone at the meeting suggested Blair Atholc as the best site for the new Church, as having the bulk of the people near it, the reply was that " out of 1100 people in the place, 550 are Episcopalians and they have a - - ^^— ^ '■W' ^- iiSl^ ..'-^- 'v^-^i:9i.ifi:j «' *:. v-r'-fe-^ --C^ Plwto or Masons Plan ol a Restored Church. March 14. 1794. ^ d KILMAVEONAIG REBUILT 89 Church to worship in " ; so that explains the seating of the chureh for 258. I then learned that I was priest- in-eharge of a Church which was not a transplant from England, not an exotic unused to the ' cold blasts ' of the north, but a plant of hardy native growi:h rooted in our soil in the days of "Auld lang syne." Let us pause and picture the scene. The ancient building, scarred with the soldiers' marks in 1745, the old military road running (as seen in an old map) past the churchyard and the little village lying to the west, and so on over the old Bridge of Tilt, to St. Bride's Church at Old Blair. The Church was evidently rebuilt from the ground ; I was satisfied of this when, under the wise guidance of the Rev. E. Sugden, I began to restore the Church, A.D. 1893, for the three large windows with big panes of glass would never have been found in an old Highland Church (small windows were a help for defence in times of danger) ; one of the three windows, the most eastern, was added to the plan at the request of Mr. Robertson, the minister (see words on the plan) . As we picture the walls rising — " everyone having a mind to work " as in Ezra's time at Jerusalem — and when finished the date 1794 being placed on a stone in the west wall, our thoughts may wander back to byegone centuries, to the end of the 4th and St. Ninian's building of Candida Casa, to the end of the 6th and Columba's death at lona, to the end of the 11th with our saintly Queen Margaret passing to her rest, and to the 14th, the close of a period to which all Scotchmen must look back with honest pride and thankfulness for many blessings ; and then lastly, with the 15th century, we see the growing weeds of " error in doctrines and viciousness " (or, at least, a sad lack of sterling righteousness) of life which, in the strife that follows, showed not the desire to maintain Catholicity on the one hand, or to see the triumph of the 90 FACTS & FANCIES ABOUT KILMAVEONAIG Reformation on the other ; but as Longfellow puts it for us : — " The longing for ignoble things, The strife for triumph more than truth, The hardening of the heart, that brings Irreverence for the dreams of youth." And so, for two centuries. Christians " bit and de- voured one another," and then for another century Might claimed to be Right, till gentler counsels — counsels of Peace — prevailed. With the 16th century then beginning, and now passed with its fellows into Eternity — how do we regard the past ? As a mistake ? as a shame on our Christian name ? as a blot upon our escutcheon ? Yes, surely, therefore, let us now make peace, pursue love, and seek to " speak the truth in love " ; controversy there must still be, earnest contention for " the faith once delivered to the saints " ; but the smoke of byegone battles is gone, we fight now with smoke- less powder, we see the issues at stake more clearly, we try to see the apple of truth from the side of those we differ from ; we see the wrong we have done to each other (certainly to ourselves) and to our common Christianity, and the dishonour we have done to our God and King, Whose Name is blasphemed through us by those who eye us with dislike. The study of history is said to be the best tonic for drooping spirits, but it is surely also the strongest incentive to humble confession that the remem- brance of the past is grievous, and the burden is intolerable. Let us desire to respond to the exhortation of St. James, " Confess your faults one to another that ye may be healed " ; then the strength to rise and walk in love will follow, and the prayer for unity will be answered by the Spirit of Truth, "Who maketh men to be of one mind in an house." The words of the old Jacobite song roused many to loyalty to Prince Charles : — KILMAVEONAIG REBUILT 91 Wha wadna fccht for Charlie ! Wha wadna draw the sword ! Wha wadna up and rally At the Royal Prince's word ! Shall not we, shoulder to shoulder, in our Christian warfare, up and rally at the Word of the Prince of Peace, Whose "Divine Right " we all acknowledge ? Satan has somewhat shifted his strongholds ; they are no longer inside the Fort of King Brude, no longer so much among the Pagans, the untaught countryfolk, but he has entrenched himself in the crowded slums of our large towns, in dens of physical and moral filth, and in the hearts, alas, of those he has enslaved with love of money and of pleasure, and like Columba we must, with Cross in hand, demand an entrance for the Gospel of our King into the hearts of Satan's slaves. Yes, " like a mighty army we — will we not ? — go forth girded with humility " ; we will, like our King, stoop to conquer, and in Him, con- quer we will, if " faithful unto Death." We have now in thought journeyed together to Imperial Rome and to the City of the great King, where on Calvary — the Mount Moriah of ancient times — ^the King began to reign. We have traced his progress — Regnum — CiviTAS — DoMUS — Dei — the Kingdom, de- veloping the Commonwealth established in the land, then the building the House of God, where the citizens as- semble to worship the King. Now, as we look on the restored Holy, and — no doubt in some measure, beautiful House where our Fathers praised God, let us seek — say on the eve of the Dedication (perchance July 27, 1794) — to see a Vision of Unity. The Kingdom of God is not of this worlds " our Commonwealth is from Heaven," the true House of God is one " not made with hands, eternal in the Heavens." What do we see through the "Door opened in the Heaven?" 92 FACTS & FANCIES ABOUT KILMAVEONAIG A Lion Which (as in dissolving views), changes to " a Lamb, standing as It had been slain." The Vision is (1st) of Royal Authority — of sacrifice to be offered and then eaten — and of renewed life. (2nd), The Vision is of the Faithful Worshippers — a Kingdom of Priests, a mystical Body to reign and to offer spiritual Sacrifices to God, through Jesus Christ (Rev. ch. v. 1. 1 Pet. i.). and this mystical Body changes in Vision into the Wife of the Lamb — a Holy City built upon apostles chosen by the King, and the citizens are " called, chosen, and faithful." May I say to my Scottish fellow-Christians what the Vision teaches me ? First, a Divine model, as a pattern was she\Mi to Moses in the Mount, and to David and to Ezekiel, so " The Body is of Christ," and embodies all that is gone before ; therefore the spiritual pattern must be of Divine Order. The High Priests, Priests, and Levite — the Apostles, Presbyters, and Deacons — seem to me to have the Divine Seal on them, therefore I cannot give them up as merely human, And mark how much more of common ground we see now that we know each other better. Presbyters of the second order are associated with the Bishop in the ordination of Priests (see rubic), and Presbyterian elders might well find their counterpart in the fuller recognition of the confirmed as endowed with the sevenfold gifts for service, especially in the Laj^ Reader and all re- cognised lay work. Once more, this Church (Ecclesia) is " a Kingdom of Priests," every one baptised into Jesus Christ is a King and a Priest in virtue of his or her share in the corporate life. "Ye shall be named the Priests of the Lord, men shall call you the Ministers of our God " (Isa. Ixi,). If, therefore, every Christian is a King and a Priest, can the one ordained to the Priesthood be otherwise than a Priest to offer sacrifices as the Representative of the corporate Body ? Does it not then follow that I am both Priest KILMAVEONAIG REBUILT 93 and Minister, and that where I consecrate the Bread and Wine, there is an Altar as well as Holy Table ? Why is it supposed we hold to Apostolical Succession ? Is it merely that there never has been in Christendom a break in the succession of Bishops set apart in the Catholic Church by the laying on of hands ? Surely not, when S. Paul wrote to Titus " for this cause left I thee in Crete that thou mightest ordain elders," he did so believing in the Lord of Glory, Who, as " Priest for Ever," as well as " King for Ever," never faileth to breathe forth the Holy Spirit for the orderly governing of His Church. There can be no intermittanee of His action ! If you ask me why I write this, it is because the ancient House of God seems to bid me say it, and I rejoice at having the opportunity to tell my brethren of the Pres- bjrterian Churches, yea all that are seeking the Vision of Unity, why I claim to be a Catholic, not only as we all are by baptism, but as regards Catholic Orders. From what I read and hear it is clear that many Christians still hold Priest, Altar, and Sacrifice to be terms not admissible in the ministry of the Gospel. On this point then, many are not at one, often, alas, hotly opposed, and as we have ceased to fight, thank God, let us pray for grace to " Speak the Truth in Love, and to see eye to eye " ; guided by this Spirit of Truth, then sometime we shall " all come into the Unity of the Faith," and those that eye us with suspicion shall echo the words of the heathen of old, " See how these Christians love one another." One last word about the word, " Holy." I have learnt that this word is often understood as implying inherent Holiness, so that I should be claiming an inherent superiority over others, as I once heard a friend exclaim, " Here comes Holy CathoUc Church." Now even in jest this shews forgetfulness of the first meaning of Holy, i.e. set apart for God's service ; e.g., The House of God is set apart for the service of God only, and the assumption of in- 94 FACTS & FANCIES ABOUT KIL^IAVEONAIG hercnt Superiority would be inconsistent with Cliristian humility. M«^y the Vision of the Beauty of Hohness be ever more and more clear, and may it ever be seen by us when in Kilmaveonaig we seek to behold the Glory of God in the Face of Jesus Christ. We have no notes of when the Church was ready for re-opening, but with the date A.D. 1794 in the West Wall under the belfry as a Fact, Fancy can picture the De- dication by the Bishop of the Diocese, the priest- in-charge, Mr. Robertson, and doubtless a goodly number of those who contributed " money, material, and labour," who now with one mind and one mouth glorify God for their freedom of worship without fear of pains and penalties. It will be of interest here to insert a few dates and MSS. sent me as to Persons and Places in that glad New Century. First, as to the Priest-in-charge. We conclude he was the Rev. John Robertson, mentioned in the plan, as residing at Middlcton Derculich, one or two of whose letters we copy from the Lude papers. He was at this time in charge of Strathtay and Strathtummel, and our own Church. He came every third Sunday to each place, and was made Dean of the Diocese, A.D 1808. He died A.D. 1829, and was buried in Logierait Church- yard, the following inscription appearing on his tomb- stone : — " Erected to the Memory of the Rev. John Robertson, late Episcopal Clergyman in Strathtay, who departed this life on the 4th day of October, 1829, aged 67." And on the back of the stone : — "Audivi Vocem e coclo Dicentem mihi, Scribe, Beati ab hoc tempore mortui qui in domino moriuntur." The following letters written by him speak of an accident he met with, which may have shattered his health and hastened his end ; — KILMAVEONAIG REBUILT 95 , PiTCASTLE, I9th Jan., 1826. The unlucky accident that happened to me in going last to Athole has ever since confined me to my room, and I am sorry to say still does. The swelling is consi(5erably abated, but the pain still remains that I cannot walk through the room without the help of a staff, so that you cannot expect me on Sunday. I wish I were in a situation to do duty the first Sunday in the Strathtay Chapel. Please God to spare me and be in such a state that I can safely venture from home, I propose and shall endeavour to be at Kilmaveonaig Sunday first come three weeks, and with good wishes to all my friends, and prayers to God for their health and happiness, both here and hereafter. I remain. Yours sincerely, (Signed) JOHN ROBERTSON. , PiTCASTLE, 8th Feby., 1826. John, -^ The unlucky accident I met with in going to Athole 31 Deer., has confined me ever since to my room. I certainly thought when I wrote you last that I would be able to be at Kilmaveonaig Sunday first the 12th Febry., but that I cannot think of. About two weeks ago I ventured out about a mile, and I returned home rather worse than I was ; indeed, so much so, that my servants had to assist me into the house so that as I cannot venture to the Chapel here as yet, I cannot fix a day to go to Kilmaveonaig, but please God to enable me, I shall endeavour to be with you Sunday first come three weeks, and I remain, Your Well-wisher, (Signed) JOHN ROBERTSON. To Mr. M'Glashan, Wheelwright, Kilmaveonaig. 96 FACTS & FANCIES ABOUT KILMAVEONAIG The Old Register must now be referred to, being the quarry whence I got the first materials for my book, and which roused me to further search for precious lore, hidden elsewhere. It was the Minute Book of the Jacobite Congregation in Perth from 1739 to 1746, and contains the signature of Robert Lyon, who was colleague of the Rev. Laurence Drummond ; he, alas, was executed at Penrith for following Prince Charlie. Dean Farquhar refers to this in his interesting book, " Epis- copal History of Perth." This Register, we know not how, got into the pos- session of Mr. Robertson, who from 1812 to 1830 used it as a Register for the Baptisms and Confirmations of the three districts which he shepherded (which Register I published last year in a separate book) ; there were from 16 to 24 Baptisms every year and perhaps half that number confirmed, which is a striking witness to the vigour of our Church life early in the 19th century. Unfor- tunately no entries were made after 1830. This old book has many things copied into it by Mr. W. Atkinson, Churchwarden and Vestry Clerk of Holy Trinity, Pitlochrie, after Dr. Howard's death. The Register has at one end the Perth minutes I have referred to, while at the other end apjiear lists of the sums paid by the congregation for the minister's income in 1786. Apparently the persecuted Jacobites began to forsee better times, and again were venturing to meet openly for worship. We append the notes of the last meeting at which Robert Lyon was present. Perth, Tuesday, 29th January, 1745. The Ministers and other Managers of the Episcopal Meeting-House having this day inspected James Bayne, your Treasurer's accompts for the last year find the Charges amount to seventy-eight pounds nine pence and KILMAVEONAIG REBUILT 97 five sixths of a penny Sterling, and the Discharge to Eighty three pounds one shilling nine pence and five- sixths of a penny Sterling, by which it appears that the House is due to James Bayne a Balance of Five pounds one shilling Sterling as will appear by his accompts docket by us of this date, and recommend to the said James Bayne to recover a Deficient List of former years amounting to Four pounds thirteen shillings and two pence, signed by the last Managers the 31st of January, 1744, as likewise we recommend to him to recover a Deficient List amounting to One pound eighteen shillings Sterling for the year immediate last by past, signed by us of this date, and order him also to prepare a List of the whole Hearers to be laid before the next General Meeting. (Signed) LAW. DRUIMMOND. ROBERT LYON. J A. SMYTH. GEO. STIRLING. JOHN STEWART. /Facsimile of his\ V Signature. / The above copy of the Minutes of the Annual Meeting of the Congregation will hardly be complete — at least for our readers who are of Jacobite sympathies — without a brief reference to Robert Lyon. Of his parentage, he himself seems to have only recorded (I quote from the " Episcopal History of Perth " by the present Dean of the Diocese) that he was of Scottish birth, well educated, and was elected by the Jacobite Congregation in Perth to be coadjutor of the Rev. Laurence G 98 FACTS & FANCIES ABOUT KILMAVEONAIG Drummond, and appeared as such at the Meeting, Nov. 15, 1739, having been ordained Priest. In his ministry he shewed himself to be one of the " Usagers," i.e., the CathoHc party, there being then, as ever since the Reformation, those who held the Catholic Faith, and those who protested against it because they held it to be tainted with the errors and superstitions of the Roman Communion. He was engaged to be married to Miss Stewart Rose, daughter of the Bishop of Fife ; alas the marriage never took place, owing to his loyal and avowed attachment to the Stuart cause. Mr. Erskine in a letter dated Sept. 25, 1744, wrote from Perth, "What I hear bodes little good to Robert Lyon." When Prince Charles Edward entered Perth, Robert Lyon illuminated his house, and was outspoken in the loyalty of his welcome. He accompanied the Prince's army to Prestonpans as a chaplain. He had enemies watching him, and when the Duke of Cumberland came to Perth in 1746, Robert Lyon was imprisoned in Carlisle with 77 others, and was sentenced to death. A ring in the possession of Miss Bruce of Demmarles, bears the inscription : — " Mr. Robert Lyon, E.S.P.,* 28th October, atat 36 1746." The ring is a gold hoop, set with a piece of rock crystal covering a little hair — we presume the hair of the martyred priest. On the outside it is enamelled in black with the inscription in raised gold letters, at the end of which there is the figure of a skull, also in raised gold, and inside is an incised inscription, " Pro Rege et Patria Trueidato." Mr. James Bruce, W.S., of Edinburgh, has kindly had the ring photographed for me. This is one more proof, of which history is full, that those who, for conscience sake, and in loyalty to their cause, shed their blood, do thereby enshrine their memories in the hearts of generations to come, and it was well that • E.S.P., i.e., Ecclesiae Scotianae Presbyter. Drinking Cup used bp the Jacobites I'heu driiiliiug Prince Charlie's health — see page 76. Jftemorial Ring of Robert Lvon. KILMAVEONAIG REBUILT 99 Mr. Lyon, by his dying words on the Scaffold, and while suffering for his loyalty to the Stuart cause, should declare himself a Priest of a Church " happily governed by her own truly primitive Bishops, and whose Creeds demon- strate the soundness of Her Faith " : the Catholic Church has ever stood for " Evangelical Truth and Apostolic Order," and the strife of Christians in the past for their own piece of the Apple of Truth, has in our day in God's mercy, led them to bring the pieces together to be the Apple of Concord, for which Faith, whole and undefiled, we desire to be Martyrs even unto Death. In addition to the ring, there is another very in- teresting Jacobite relic bearing Mr. Lyon's name, namely a pin-cushion, stuffed with sawdust, from the scaffold at Carlisle, bearing the names of the 75 Jacobites who suf- fered there and at Penrith and other places in 1746 for their loyalty to the House of Stuart at that time. The pin-cushion is oblong, measuring about 4 inches by 3. It is covered with white satin with blue silk tassels at the comers. In the centre of each side there is a Jacobite rose, and round it the inscription " Mart : for K : and Cou : 1746." The names of those commemorated are placed on each side of the j^in-cushion in four concentric circles round the rose and inscription. They run as follows : — On the one side — First or Outer Circle. — The Rev. R. Lyon, Roe, Clavering, Reid, Eaton, Heys, Brady, Ogilvie, Roper, Brand, Swan, Holt, Hunter, Mitchell, Nicholson, Matthews, Hunt. Second Circle. — J. Wallis, J. Henderson, J. M'Naugh- ton, J. Roebottom, H. Cameron, J. Innis, J. Harvie, D. Fraizer, B. Mayson, Donld. M' Donald. Third Circle. — M. Deliard, C. Gordcn, Cap. M'Donald, Cap. Wood, Cap. Lcith, Cap. Hamilton, Dan M' Daniel. 100 FACTS & FANCIES ABOUT KILMAVEONAIG Fourth or Inner Circle. — Col. Townley, Sir J. Weder- burn, Sir A. Primrose, F. Buchannan, Esq., J. Hamilton, Esq. On other side — First or Outer Circle, — Eudsworth, Sparks, Horn, D. Morgan, Esq., C. Gorden, S. M'Kenzie, J. M'Clan, T. M'Genis, J. Tompson, Murry, Mayne, Stevenson, M'Donald, Dempsey, Conolly. Second Circle. — P. Keir, J. Read, The Revd. T. Coppock, T. Park, A. Blyde, P. Taylor, P. Lindsey, A. Kennedy, J. M'Gregor, A. Parker. Third Circle. — J. Berwick, Ja. Bradshaw, J. Dawson, T. Deacon, T. Syddall, T. Chadwick, G. Fletcher. Fourth or Inner Circle. — Earl Kilmarnock, Earl Derwentwater, Ld. Lovat, Ld. Balmerino. In a note to the Dying Declaration of Mr. Lyon, contained in copies of the Dying Declarations of Jacobites reprinted at Edinburgh, 1750, Mr. Lyon is designed " Priest of the persecuted and afflicted Church of Scot- land." The note reads thus : "As Mr. Lyon frequently administered the Holy Eucharist to his fellow-prisoners in Carlisle Castle, so particularly upon Wednesday, the 15th of October, 1746, he had the happiness to communi- cate above fifty of them among which were Mr. Coppock, the English Clergyman, and Mr. Buchannan of Arnprior, and upon the 26th of the same month, being the 22nd Sunday after Trinity, he also administered the Holy Sacrament of the Lord's Supper to a great number of Communicants, his fellow-prisoners, using the Liturgy which had been proclaimed at the Market Cross by order of Charles I." We here resume the Church notes from page 94. A.D. 1820. This was a year which brought many KILMAVEONAIG REBUILT 101 changes to us. General Robertson sold his property at Lude to Mr. Mclnroy, the grandfather of the present Laird. The house was some years after rebuilt, a new road with a lodge was made to approach it from the west, after the present high road was made in 1820, and the old mihtary road running past the church was discontinued. New cottages were built on the road, now known by the name of BaUintoul, so that gradually the old village was allowed to fall into decay. The village stood here until 1833 or 1834, the school- house to the east of the Church remaining for a time after the houses were removed. There was also a forge, and a service was held by the Baptists here for some years. Charles M'Glashan, and other old people lately passed away, told me that they worshipped in the Church in their youth. "A man, called Seaton, who was much injured by a fall over the rocks at Tuldunie, taught here. Also from the cow-path at Lude came down the rammer from the cannon when firing a salute, and an accident occurred, causing death to one man and the loss of an arm to another." The following list (obtained from the Laird's sister) of Custodians of Kilmaveonaig from about 1820, is interesting, as shewing the links we then had with the people of the soil. " Sandy a'thing " ; what a com- prehensive title for a Storekeeper ! Alexr. Stewart, " Sandy a'thing," Merchant, New Bridge of Tilt. Alexr., his son, who retired from the shop to the farm of Strathgroy ; his widow now lives in Pitlochrie. Alexr. 's Nephew, John Campbell, who farmed for Mrs. Stewart, and died at Strathgroy. Neil M'Glashan, BaUintoul (who lived at Kilmaveonaig until the Houses were removed). 102 FACTS & FANCIES ABOUT KILMAVEONAIG His Sons, John, Peter, and Neil, had all Office connected with the Chapel. The last survivor of the three brothers died at Esingal. John M'Glashan, Balintoul, who brought up his Family at the Village of Kilmaveonaig. Charles (who seems to have been confirmed in 1819), his Son still lives in the old home at Balintoul. Donald M'Glashan, late Farmer, Balrobie. Angus Stewart, Kincraigie. Duncan Stewart, Fender Bridge. Robert Robertson, for many years Miller at Lude, and afterwards in Pitlochry, died 2 or 3 years since. John Robertson, Keeper, Esingal. His Son ; the Family now live at Craig Urrard, Pitlochry. A.D. 1825. The following is an extract from a letter sent me by Miss Keir about the village : — " Old Duff said that when he was a lad about 12, there were six or seven small cottages in which small farmers lived. He was working with them and going to school, which was a little way to the west of the Church (about 120 scholars) and James Seaton and Mr. Stewart, Ardenlea, were on the roll with him. There was a Baptist congregation and Mr. TuUoch was the name of the minister. He never heard of any one being immersed there. They had a place in the river for that." Mr. Tulloch is an instance of what can be done by a man of strong religious conviction. He came to the neighbourhood towards the end of the 18th century, and his preaching evidently bore fruit. It is well to correct here a popular misrepresentation of the Church's teaching as regards Immersion which is recognised by her as the right form of administering the Sacrament (see Rubric KILMAVEONAIG REBUILT 103 in Baptismal Service, where it is added that " if the parents certify the child is weak it shall suffice to pour water upon it.") Unfortunately we have got to assume that every child is weak. The Rev. John Robertson was succeeded by Rev. John Macmillan, and it is interesting to note how the Scottish Church, in her revived life, took special care in providing for the income of her pastors, as will be seen by this list, A.D. 1830 :— "We, the undersigned Members of the EjDiscopal Con- gregation, assembling for the worship of Almighty God in the Chapel of Kilmaveonaig, being desirous of securing for ourselves and Families the benefit of the Regular Ministration of an Episcopal Clergyman. Do hereby agree and bind ourselves to pay to the Revd. John M'Millan, our present Pastor, during his Incumbency, the sums here afixed to our respective names. The sums to be paid in equal moieties twice a year, viz., at the Terms of Whitsunday and Martinmas. The first payment to be made at the ensuing term of Mar- tinmas, 1830," Donald Stewart, Farmer, Kincragie, Miss Ann Cameron, Middlebridge, Alex. Stewart, Merct., Bridge of Tilt, Peter and John M'Glashan, Bridge of Tilt, Alex. M'Glashan, Strathgroy, James M'Intosh, Balenald, ... John M'Glashan, Balintoul, ... W^idow Stewart, Strathgroy,... Janet Robertson, Balintoul, £0 10 10 10 8 5 4 4 2 2 104 FACTS & FANCIES ABOUT KILMAVEONAIG Mr. MacMillan left for Dunkeld in 1834, and before he went away he gave to the Church a Prayer-Book and Bible, a bound copy of the Scottish Liturgy, beginning as usual with the Exhortation, and a small oak Table for the Altar, with an inscription as follows : — " This Altar is dedicated without reserve to the public Celebration of the Eucharist in the Scots Epis- copal Church, and is subject, with this sole limitation to the disposal of the Rev. William Cowper Augustine Maclaurin, present Incum- bent of Kilmaveonaig, in the Parish of Blair Athole, Perthshire, or in case of his decease, to the disposal of such person or persons as he may appoint, Sept. 1834." This Altar I found in the vestry, and taking it to be a common table, was going to put a drawer to it. when the joiner, on turning it up found the above inscription. I then had it encased in oak, and it now stands in the vestry of the Church, fit for use if that should ever be used as a Side Chapel. He was succeeded by the Rev. William C. A. Mac- laurin, who remained six years, 1834 to 1840, and had quite a well-filled Church. In 1840 he went to Elgin and was succeeded by the Rev. Thomas Walker, who, un- fortunately, gradually alienated his congregation and declining to retire, the Bishop in 1856 locked the Church. Mr. Walker must have been a man of some parts, and was very musical. Canon Meredith sent me interesting evidence of our recognised congregational life in 1837, as follows : — "At the end of Lawson's History, 2nd vol., is an appendix giving information from evidence given to (and accepted by, I presume) the Commissioners appointed by Parlia- ment to enquire into the state of Religious Instruction, KILMAVEONAIG REBUILT 105 whose first report was ordered by the House of Com- mons to be printed in 1837. I should think that it might be quoted for our side in case of any dispute about the rights to the Church of Kilmaveonaig. ' Blair Athole. — Established shortly after the Revolu- tion. The congregation assembles for public worship in a chapel which was rebuilt about 1797 at Kilmaveonaig ; cost not ascertained. No person has any right over the Church but the clergyman for the time being. It is applied to no other purpose. Number of sittings about 200. The stipend is £30, chiefly derived from the Scottish Episcopal Church Society. Divine service performed twice every Sunday, Christmas Day, Good Friday, and Ascension Day, and once at least six other days throughout the year.' — Evidence by the Rev. W. C. A, M' Laurin, M. A., Rector at this date." Amid the many and divers notes with which the story of Kilmaveonaig in the first century of her newly-regained freedom is strown, it is pleasant to find an Aberdonian, from the city of Bon Accord (the father-in-law of the present Dean of Edinburgh), wending his way up Strath- Garrj% from Dunkeld, where perhaps the Rector, Mr. Macmillan, had told him of " dear Kilmaveonaig," and when he had realised it embosomed among the mountains and half circled by the Tilt and the Garry, he returns to Dunkeld, and musing — maybe, by the fireside— of the old church nestling under the hill, he forecasts the winter tempests rushing down from snow-capped Ben-y-Gloe (as indeed they did in March, 1883, and November, 1893), and the waters of the Tilt and the Garry in spate, and his poetic fire kindles into verse — "Ye winds," he cries, " blow soft, ye waters of Atholl ne'er depart from your banks, lest sadness ye carry on ' the place of my heart.' " The verses below are very descriptive of the beauties of the Strath ; — 106 FACTS & FANCIES ABOUT KILMAVEONAIG KILMAVEONAIG. Lines written at Dunkeld on returning from a visit to Blair A thole in September, 1841. Dear Kilmaveonaig, thy braes are reposing On Athole's broad bosom, so sunny and still, I grieve that the winding Strathgarry is closing Their light from my vision with forest and hill. O'er hill and o'er forest, by distance decreasing, Schiehallion heaves proudly to view thee below ; O'er hill and o'er torrent, that rushes unceasing. Looks down from his lonely height grand Ben-y-Gloe. Like giants o'erwatching an infant in slumber. The old mighty mountains stand silent around. While songs from the streams, flowing by without number. At noontide and midnight thy lullaby sound. Ye waters of Athole. the Tilt and the Garry, Oh ne'er from the banks that embrace j-ou depart, Lest danger and ruin and sadness ye carry On Kilmaveonaig, the place of my heart. Ye winds that in glen and in corrie are swelling. Blow soft as ye cross it, or harmless, if shrill. But chasing the blight from the leaf, or dispelling The cloud with its tempest, or mists that would chill. And I, if misfortune befall not to wither The feelings that spring as its beauty I praise, Maj' often be journeying joyfully thither, With a heart that is fresh as the green of its braes. N. Clyne. A.D. 1856. On the departure of Mr. Walker this year regular services were impossible, and the Church for- feited the income it had drawn from the Society, and it has never been recovered. This was, of course, fatal to our retaining the congregation, and many at this time went to the Presbjrterian service, and never came back to us. But church life, if it dies down in one place, springs up in another, and it is interesting to record the efforts made at this time to start a Congregation in Pitlochrie. Amongst the chief movers were Mr. John Troup and Colonel Drummond Hay. Mr. Robson was the clergy- man who ministered to the congregation, and the only KILMAVEONAIG REBUILT 107 building they could secure for service was a carpenter's shop, which it is said they were obliged to leave ready for carpenters' work on the Monday morning. The Rev. Mr. Robson was appointed to Pitlochrie, A.D. 1856, and when able to do so held services at Kilma- veonaig, but tired of waiting in the years preceding, many persons had joined the other churches in the neighbour- hood, and instead of being the principal church, it became quite secondary in importance, and services were held so irregularly that it was difficult to gather together any congregation. The late Mr. M'Inroy, with others, re- paired the Church between 1830 and 1840, and he built the surrounding wall ; before that the wall on the north side had extended further up the hill. (Communicated by Miss M'Inroy, the Laird's sister). The letter written by Mr. Robson to the Bishop, gives some interesting details. I am sorry that only part of it was given to me. Pitlochrie, July 7th, 1856. My Dear Lord, Having now been a week in these parts, it is time that I should acquaint you with my mission acts, however scanty, during that time. I lost no time in introducing myself to Mrs. Murray at Cluny Cottage, where I met with a very hearty welcome. She and her two daughters are very anxious to see a Mission es- tablished here, as they feel so isolated, and although careful to avoid personal remarks, they speak rather woefully of the present condition of things at Blair. Of Miss Murray I have seen very little, as she has been absent since Monday last, but the younger daughter is most enthusiastic, and, withal, a very sound and sensible Churchwoman, with whom it is a satisfaction to meet. They, unfortunately, had no longer at their disposal the room which was for- merly mentioned to you, and the innkeeper, in whose 108 FACTS & FANCIES ABOUT KILMAVEONAIG hands it is now, has it let along with the house to which it is attached, and it is now used as a part of a Lodging- Housc. He would have given me a room in a new building which he is adding to the Inn, but there are neither floors nor windows in it as yet, but after searching about through the village, I had almost despaired of finding any place for service, but at last have got the use of a carperter's shop. The owner is a member of the Free Church, who had formerly lent Mr. Walker a room in his house for service, and he was most ready and willing to give his shop, and as Miss Murray happily remarked, " a carpenter's shop was far from a bad omen as a beginning." We had a space cleared out at one end and fitted up with some rude benches and a few chairs, and yesterday we made on the whole a very successful beginning. In the morning we had a congregation of 14 adults and three children, all members of the Church except one (my servant), and all visitors, except Miss Susan Murray and her two servants and one party of four staying at the Inn ; another party of three ladies, Mrs. Forbes (wife of Professor Forbes, Edinburgh) and three children, and a young gentleman, unattached. I was pleasantly surprised at the numbers, as the season is only beginning here, and I was not aware that any of the present visitors were mem- bers of the Church. They all joined very heartily in the service, and in a Psalm which we sang. In the evening a number of the villagers attended, and the congregation amounted to 39, besides some children, who all behaved very reverently. Eleven of these were Church people, and the heartiness of their responses quite enlivened the service. There is this advantage for the Evening Service that the Parish Church is a mile off, and there is only a mid-day service there. On the whole I consider this commencement under the circumstances, most satis- factory. I am unable to say what prospect of support there would be from the neighbouring proprietors, who are KILMAVEONAIG REBUILT 109 supposed to be members of the Church, as they are all absent just now. Captain Jack Murray, of Croft-in-loan, is engaged upon a revenue situation, and has let his place for a year to a Mr. Cowan, Edinburgh. Colonel Drum- mond of the Guards has been in the Crimea." .... The Church was consecrated in August, 1858, and it is a matter of great thankfulness to see how Holy Trinity Church has grown under the present Rector, Canon Cooke, to such proportions, having a Roll of about 170 members. During the period of the ten years' vacancy, those interested in Kilmaveonaig (as is shown by the following paper, in the possession of Mr. Robertson at the Union Bank) met to arrange for the repair of the wall of the churchyard (Nov. 1861) and some trees were cut down, a committee being formed for the purpose. The following paper gives the list of names and subscriptions : — A Committee of those having right of burial in the Kilmaveonaig Church Yard, consisting of the following Gentlemen — Messrs. Niel M'GIashan, Balintoul ; Donald M'GIashan, Balrobie ; Angus Stewart, Kincriaige ; Duncan Stewart, Bridge of Fender ; Charles M'GIashan, Bahntoul ; Alex. Stewart, Bridge of Tilt ; Robt. Robertson, Old Bridge of Tilt ; met in the Bridge of Tilt Hotel, Nov. 1861, and it was unanimously agreed upon that a Subscription List should be opened among the Members having the right of burial for the purpose of repairing its wall, which had been found in a very dilapidated condition. At the same time a motion had been proposed and carried that several of the trees growing within that place of interment should be removed and disposed of by public 110 FACTS & FANCIES ABOUT KILMAVEONAIG sale, the proceeds of which will be found in the list of Subscribers, for the purpose of gaining more space, as well as contributing much to its symmetry and effective appearance. Accordingly a suitable mason (Mr. Donald Seaton) was selected to reconstruct all the breaches in the building, and carefully apply a coating of lime to such portions of it as too evidently evinced the rapid progress of decay. The sum expended on masonry amounted to £4 10/- stg., and a handsome Iron Gate was fitted up, the value of which along with other matters of expenditure will be seen in the list of expenses. SUBSCRIPTION LIST. Neil M'Glashan, Balintoul, Donald M'Glashan, Balrobie, Angus Stewart, Kineraigie, Duncan Stewart, Bridge of Fender, Charles M'Glashan, Balintoul, Alexander Stewart, Bridge of Tilt, John Robertson, Baluainc, ... Mrs. D. Robertson, Middlcbridge, .. James Seaton, Airdqualiek, Neil Forbes, Eidtean, Donald M'Intyre, Strowan, Robert Robertson, Old Bridge of Tilt Peter Eraser, Glen Tilt, Alexander Seaton, Bridge of Earn, Mrs. Fisken, Perth, ... Donald Seaton, Bridge of Tilt, WiUiam Reid, Bridge of Tilt, James Stewart, Strathgroy, John Shaw, Marrach Dhu, ... John Stewart, Clanmore, Donald Menzies, Aldclune, Alex. Stewart, Aldclune, William Forbes, Aldclune, ... . £0 6 6 4 c C 4 i) 4 12 4 G 6 4 4 2 It, G 6 4 4 5 4 2 6 . 3 2 6 4 1 2 . 6 6 KILMAVEONAIG REBUILT 111 James Seaton, Aldgirnaig, ... Donald Forbes, Invercroskie, John Campbell, Dundee, Robert Stewart, Aldandulach, Donald Stewart, Kirkton of Lude, Alexander Robertson, Seek, John M'Lean, Tomnabrack, Hector M' Lean, James M'Inty re, James Robertson, Calbruar, Neil Stewart, Dalnaboa, Archibald Seaton, Alexander Stewart, Strathgroy, Donald Forbes, Invervack, ... J. & R. Menzies, Scone or Perth, ... Mrs. Hill, Navie-dale, Sutherland, ... John Robertson, Easangael, Peter Stewart, Runmore, Duncan Robertson, Bridge of Tilt, ... Robert Robertson, Old Bridge of Tilt (see before). John Campbell, Bridge of Tilt, James Seaton, Aldgirnaig, Mrs. Anne Stewart, Dingwall, Ross- shire, 046 July 31st, 1864— James Cameron, Glentilt, Belfast, Ireland, 5 £0 2 6 4 4 2 2 4 2 3 3 4 4 4 2 2 2 5 2 6 2 6 2 6 2 6 2 6 A.D. 1866. The appointment of the Rev. Henry St. John Howard to the Church at Pitlochrie once more gave the old Church a fresh start. The following notes of the repairs and restoration which Dr. Howard did between 1866 and 1874, are in his own handwriting : — 112 FACTS & FANCIES ABOUT KILMAVEONAIG " When I was appointed to the Incumbency of Pit- lochric in 1866 I found this Chapel at Kilmaveonaig in a shocking state of neglect and internal unrepair — ^the flooring had almost all rotted away, exposing the bare earth ; the passage was flagged with large undressed flags full of deep inequalities ; there was a descent of several inches at the door from the Churchyard into the Chapel ; the walls were mostly green with damp ; between the two large windows there was a pulpit nearly as high as the gallery, and in front of it a small table covered with a moth-eaten piece of green baize, which was in- tended for an Altar. 1866-1869. — I burnt the pulpit, placing a decent Wooden Altar — raised on steps and on a foot pace — where it had stood ; removed the narrow pews, refloored the Chapel, took up the flag-stones and laid down tiles ; placed chairs for seats. 1870. — Took away the old stairs which were built against the outside for ascending into the gallery, and substituted a wooden one, the former being a conductor of damp ; repaired roofs and placed rain spouts. 1871. — Built a porch and coal-cellar ; erected a stove in the former ; repaired the Vestry within and without. 1872, Easter. — The mice having eaten holes in the covering of the Altar I had given in 1866, Mrs. Cunyng- hame (Kindrochet) presented a handsome green cloth one with red super-frontal and a green dossal with a worked cross thereon. The flower vases were also her gift. 1873. — Small stove in Vestry in lieu of wide grate. 1874. — Brass Alms dish bought from Hardman & Co., with a Baptismal fee of £2 from Mr. Wm. Atkinson." A.D. 1870. The Church was in use for Divine Service, and the following notice appeared in the " Scottish Guardian," Oct. 1st : — KILMAVEONAIG REBUILT 113 " Blair Athole, Kilmaveonaig. At the Chapel here in connection with Holy Trinity Church, Pitlochrie, Sunday morning services have for some weeks been conducted by the Rev. J. Horner Hewlett, M.A., Oxon., curate of S. Luke's, Chelsea." At this time Mr. Howard had a small resident congre- gation, the stationmaster, Mr. Dunn, was a member of the Church, and had a small family. The following note, dated 29th May, A.D., 1871, is interesting : — " Valuation of lands and heritages. The Episcopal Chapel, Kilmaveonaig, the incumbent for the time being in trust for the Bishop and Synod of the united dioceses of S. Andrew's, Dunkeld, and Dunblane." (Out of Blue Book, A.D. 1874). A.D. 1883. In March, a violent storm blew down a large ash tree, which fell on the belfry, and the bell was removed by Mr. Howard to Pitlochrie, where it was put up and tolled for the funeral of Dr. Anderson's wife. Correspondence ensued between Mr. Eraser, the minister of the Estabhshed Church, and Dr. Howard, which resulted in the bell being restored to its own church. The following weights and measurements seem to have been taken at the time : — 2 x 2f x 3^, height top from wood ; 4j St. weight and 13f in. in diameter across mouth ; 14 J in. from the ground. The inscription, "Wilham Glas M. of Little Dinkel, 1629." On the 31st inst. a meeting of the persons interested in the Church is on record, as taking place. At a Meeting of the Committee, Subscribers, and others interested in the Kilmaveonaig Burying-Ground, H 114 FACTS & FANCIES ABOUT KILMAVEONAIG held in the Bridge of Tilt Hotel, Blair Athole, on Saturday, the 31st March, 1883, at 7.30. Present. John Stewart, Clunemorc. Charles M'GIashan, Balintoul. Duncan Robertson, Bridge of Tilt. Alexander Robertson, Miller, Pitlochry. William Robertson, Carpenter, Aldclune. John M'Intyrc, Settoch. Peter Stewart, Garryside. Duncan Stewart, Fender Bridge. William M'GIashan, Balrobbie. Robert Robertson, Shierglass. James Robertson, Craigurrard, Pitlochry. John Campbell, Strathgroy. James Reid, New Bridge of Tilt. Mr. John Stewart, Clunemore, was appointed Chairman. Appointment of Committee. The Meeting appointed all the above-named as a Committee for the purpose of looking after the interests of all parties having a right to the Burying-Ground, and also to see that the Burying-Ground boundary wall and approach thereto are put into proper order, and thereafter kept in a neat and ornate condition under their supervision. Burying-Ground Dyke Walls. The Chairman called the attention of the Meeting to the dilapidated and ruinous state of parts of the wall, and, after consideration of the matter, they unanimously agreed to get the same restored and put into thorough repair. Mr. Duncan Stewart, Fender Bridge, was en- trusted with the work, with instructions to proceed therewith as soon as the weather would permit. The attention of the Meeting was also directed to a large ^he Rev. Henri) John S. Howard, LL.D., Rector of Holy Trinity, Pitlochrie with Kilmaveonaig, A.D. 1866-1891. Christopher J. K. Bow stead, M.A., Rector, A.D. 1891-1899. Priest-in- Charge of Kihnaveovaig, A.D. 1899-1912. Canon oi S. KiJ'uiyfs Cai]fiV\n], A.D IS °iL C^.^^^'vr^i^ II KILMAVEONAIG REBUILT 115 ash tree which had been blown over by the wind, thereby damaging the Belfry of the Church and a number of tombstones. The Meeting resolve to restore the Belfry and to have the tree removed and sold, to defray expenses. Planting of Trees. The Meeting took into consideration the advisability of planting rows of trees round the Burying-Ground, and after discussing the matter, they resolved that this should be done. Roadway to Burying-Ground. The Meeting then proceeded to consider the present state of the road to the Burying-Ground, which is very much cut up, and in wet weather very muddy and dis- agreeable for funeral parties who bury there. This state of the road is principally caused by the Tenant of the Farm of Bridge of Tilt continually carting on the road and ploughing his land (which adjoins within the statutory distance of the centre of the road) and should he continue to do so in future, the Meeting think it is only fair that he should keep the road leading to the Burying-Ground in a good state of repair at his own ex- pense. The Meeting instructs the Clerk, Mr. James Robertson, to make Mr. Stuart, the Tenant of the Farm of Bridge of Tilt, acquainted of this. Cleaning of Burying Ground. The Meeting resolved also to get the Burying Ground cleaned and put into a state more becoming the last resting-place of the departed. No. II. At a Committee Meeting of the Subscribers and others interested in the Kilmaveonaig Burying-Ground, held at Bridge of Tilt, on the 19th Janr., 1884, at 7.30. IIG FACTS & FANCIES ABOUT KILMAVEONAIG. Present. John Stewart, Clunemore. Wm. Robertson, Aldclunc. Alex. Robertson, Pitlochry. Robt. Robertson, Shierglass. John Campbell, Strathgroy. Duncan Stewart, Fender Bridge. Peter Stewart, Garryside. Dun. Robertson, Bridge of Tilt. John M'Intyre, Settoch. Jas. Reid, Bridge of Tilt. Jas. Robertson, Pitlochry. Mr. John Stewart, Clunemore, was appointed Chairman. The Minutes of last Meeting were read and approved of. Burying-Ground and Walls. The Clerk reported that, as instructed at last meeting, the Walls and Gate of the Burying- Ground had now been put in a thorough state of repair, that the ash tree had been cut and put up in lots and sold by public roup, and realised £4 16s 4d. The Burying-Ground had also been cleaned and rows of ornamental and other trees had been planted round the wall, where considered necessary. Roadway to Burying-Ground. The Clerk reported that Mr. Stewart, the Tenant of Bridge of Tilt, still continues to cart his farm produce, etc., and drive his cattle on the road leading to the Burying Ground, and that the road was still in a very muddy state and very disagreeable for Funeral Parties going to the Burying-Ground. The Clerk was instructed to communi- cate with Mr. Stewart, with a view of getting him com- pelled to keep the road in proper order, otherwise not to use the same in connection with his Farm. KILMAVEONAIG REBUILT 117 Belfry of Church. The Meeting then proceeded to consider whether they should restore the Bell in the Belfry of the Church, or whether they should hang it in a tree, and after full consideration of the matter, they unanimously resolved to rebuild the Belfry, as formerly, and hang the Bell therein, and they instruct the Clerk to get in offers for the work and proceed with it at once. Clerk Accounts. The Clerk laid before the Meeting a statement of his Accounts, shewing a Balance due to him of 11/2, which the Meeting found correct, and are to subscribe at a future meeting. The above is satisfactory proof that the lay members of the Church took some care of the building when there was no " Cure " to do his part. A.D. 1891. In the Spring of the year. Dr. Howard died, and having helped him for a few weeks in the Summer of 1888 and 1889, the Vestry asked me to succeed him as Rector, and early in June, 1891, I came to the rectory. I had become much interested in the old Church — where I took a morning service and Celebration of the Holy Eucharist in 1889, when Miss Forbes kindly played the harmonium, a service which gave me great pleasure, little thinking that I should soon become Rector and in a position to restore and beautify the ancient House of God — and it was not long before I saw my way to go on with the work begun and carried on at some self-sacrifice and toil by my predecessor. The accompanying view, produced from photographs taken by Miss Forbes, gives an idea, but of course imperfect, of the interior. There were three galleries, the North one joined to the East and the West, that at the East being over the Vault where the Robertsons had been buried ; the Altar was 118 FACTS & FANCIES ABOUT KILMAVEONAIG at the South side, between two windows, as seen in the engraving. There were some pews of common wood, which with some chairs faced different ways. A coat-of- arms on the East gallery (now removed to the West) had the motto — somewhat full of omen as to trouble that arose in 1898 about disturbed bones — " Dinna wauken sleepin' dogs." The Vestry, entered by a door under the North gallery, with a coal cellar in the corner, was damp and dungeon like. An old motto, " Mens sana in corpore sano " suggested a New Vestry. I was very fortunate in having kind helpers in the tenants at Ludc. Mr. Low was tenant in 1891-2, and Mrs. Low gave me a subscription, which she continued for a time after she left. Mr. Anthony Gibbs, of Tyntesfield, came the next year, and he gave me the generous donation of £50. With this 1 soon raised about £130, pulled down the North gallery, and entirely rebuilt the Vestry and put in stone mullions into the centre one of the three South windows, as shewn in the small photograph. I had the great help of the Rev. Edward Sugden, Rector of Coupar- Angus, who trained as an architect before he took Holy Orders ; the men that worked under him testified to his accuracy and good judgment in all that he did, and to him I feel that much of the interior dignity and good taste of the Church is due. After this I kept in view a fuller restoration. Mr. Sudgen said a new roof would soon be necessary. I printed a short appeal for funds, and sent a copy to the families mentioned on the tablets and to others, whom I hoped would favour the good work, and I received many subscriptions, often with affectionate remembrance of services in the Church in days gone by. I also banked the surplus of the alms at the extra summer service at 10 o'clock. In A.D. 1898 I felt I could undertake the desired work. (I hope before the Summer is over to be able to print a list of the sums given). Suffice it now to say that on July 28, 1 898 (the day after the Anniversary c/i CO e . ^ o KILMAVEONAIG REBUILT 119 of the Battle of Killiecrankie) the Church was ready to be redcdicated. The work of restoration consisted in the Church being new roofed and new slated, the harling removed from the walls and the stones repointed ; stone muUions put in the other two South windows (the old windows consisting merely of panes of common glass). Inside, the plaster ceiling was replaced by an arched wooden roof, and the East gallery was taken down and a Sanctuary, raised 2 ft. C ins., took its place ; a new wooden floor being laid and seated with chairs. The West gallery was left partly to retain somewhat of the old work, and also to provide about 25 more seats (see view of West End). The wood of the East gallery was used to form a " Lude Seat " at the West End for the Laird and his family. As a Congregation we are deeply indebted to the Laird and Mrs. M'Inroy who gave their consent to the East Gallery being taken down, under which the Robertsons mentioned in the Tablet had been buried ; and many of the old residents have said, " Eh, but ye have made it a bonnie place," and Presbyterians, as well as Church visitors have admired the devotional aspect of the interior. I here briefly allude to trouble that occurred through a mistake about some bones, Avhich came to light in the re-flooring of the building ; these bones were supposed to have been taken out of the Vault under the East Gallery which I had promised not to disturb. I was reported in the Dundee Advertiser as having " dese- crated the Church and the graves." Happily the work- men employed by Messrs. Leith & Lumsden gave an undertaking that the Vault had not been disturbed, the bones having been found near the surface towards the West end. On my supplying the Laird with this written declaration he was able to appease the other — at first wrathful — Heritors, as well as some members of the Clan Donnachie Society. Truly, the motto on the gallery, " Dinna wauken sleepin' dogs " is sage advice, and I shall 120 FACTS & FANCIES ABOUT KILMAVEONAIG always gratefully remember the goodwill of the Laird in the matter, and his eourtesy and willingness to meet my wishes with regard to the Auld Kirk, whose restora- tion has been to me a labour of love. The Church was rc-opened on Thursday, July 28, by the Bishop of the Dioeese (Bishop Wilkinson, after- wards Primus), who celebrated the Holy Eucharist at 8 a.m., and at 11.30 a.m., the Clergy, duly vested, who had come for the occasion, preceded the Bishop and his Chaplain, the Rev. A. E. Davies, up the road leading to the Church, singing hymn 215, " The Church's One Foundation." The Clergy present were the Revs. Canon Hunter, Edward Sugden, Charles E. Cooke, G. E. W. Holmes, John Harrison, G. D. Philip, John Ste\'enson, Francis Burdon, and E. J. S. Tcviotdale (Dundee), E. A. Ommanney (Southsea), and the Priest-in-Charge. We entered the Church chanting Ps. xxi\'. The service appointed for use at the restoration of a Church was used, the hymn 397 for the Restoration of a Church being sung. The Bishop gave an impressive address on Rev. iv. : "I looked and lo ! a door opened in Heaven." Before the end of the service the Bishop committed the restored House of God to my care. With the singing of the " Te Deum " and hymn (A. & M.) 379 we ended the service in praise to God for His many mercies. A large congregation filled the Church, among whom were the Laird and Mrs. M'Inroy, their family, and many friends from Pitloehrie. Our festal morning ended with a gathering of the Clergy and friends at the Tilt Hotel. The sum of about £100, which was required to clear the Church of debt was nearly realised by a Sale of Work (in my new house, finished but not furnished) the week after the Re-dedication. Four rooms were filled with Guernsey Cans, Worcester China, and the many gifts sent for sale by kind friends. Miss Forbes, Miss More- head, Miss Tuttiett, Miss Brook, Miss Nevill (and other me Door of the New Porch, A.D. 1899, with the Laird's Place of Burial in the background. -to CO to KILMAVEONAIG REBUILT 121 visitors) presided in the rooms assigned to them, and the sum of £90 in two days was the happy result. The following gifts were dedicated by the Bishop at the beginning of the service : — The Altar of Oak, in memory of a beloved sister whose body was laid to rest in Holy Trinity Churchyard, Pitlochrie, October 17, 1894 ; a Silver Paten and ChaUce of a 14th century pattern, given by Miss Morehead, who afterwards enriched the Chalice with some topaz and cairngorm stones. The Vessels were the work of Miss Meta Napier-Brown, of Edinburgh, who also carved the Re-table. The next year the Porch, designed by Mr. Sugden, was added at the cost of £150, to make room for a Font. Over the Porch is an inscription in the stone, as follows : "To the Glory of God, Kilmaveonaig Restored, 1899,— G.H.W. Bh., C.I.K.B." In A.D. 1900, a beautiful Font of Purbeck Marble, a reduced copy of one in Galway Parish Church, with old Celtic carving, was given by Miss Molyneux. The following year a Lichgate was put up at a cost of £85, partly given by those who had laid loved ones to rest in the Churchyard. The great gale of Nov. 17, 1893, had broken off a large branch of the tree close by, and this had injured the iron gate which I bought and put up at my house. In the course of the next few years an Oak Lectern was given by Mrs. Inglis, two Banners by Miss Morehead, also a Litany Desk by the sons and daughters of Mrs. Evans, who died at the Bridge of Tilt, where she had spent her honeymoon. The Brass Altar Cross was given by Mr. Baxter and other visitors at the Tilt Hotel, and the Altar Lights by Rev. C. L. Broun ; when the Reredos was put up, these, with the consent of the principal donors, were sent to Chanda. A beautiful Stained-Glass Window (not ready for dedi- cation, 1898) by Clayton Bell, was given by Miss Tuttiett, in memory of her father, who resided in Pitlochrie after he resigned the charge of S. Andrews. The three Lights 122 FACTS & FANCIES ABOUT KILMAVEONAIG contain figures of S. Ninian, S. Columba, and Queen Margaret. A new Sanctuary Floor was laid of oak to replace the one of common wood, and on it was placed an Altar- base made of Cyj^rus with three Crosses of Ebony and Rosewood inlaid. An Aumbry was also placed on the south side of the Sanctuary (taking the place of a stone slab removed to the north side near the Robertson Tablet) . The Aumbry was given by Miss M. Anderson in memory of her nephew. On a Memorial Brass are these words : " Beati Mundi Corde In piam Memoriam Findlay T. M. Anderson, at Rest Sept. 12, 1903, aetat 17. "With Me in Paradise." Miss Anderson also gave New Oak Altar-rails. The Diocesan Guild gave us two Prayer Desks, Mr. and Mrs. Richardson, a Credence Table ; and Miss Nevill (now gone to her rest), a Sanctuary Chair. We also received the following gifts of Needlework : — A beautiful green Stole, worked by Mrs. Presslie-Smith, the first wife of the Dean of Argyll and the Isles, also gifts from Miss K. Campbell, Miss Wilkie, and Miss Wilkinson. A.D. 1906. — It was decided to enlarge the Vestry so as to enable the gallery to be entered from it by a staircase (the iron spiral one in the Church being very inconvenient). The work — including a small Priest's chamber, useful for quiet reading or sleeping — cost nearly £100. A donation of £15 from Mr. and Mrs. Penton of Goring, and the proceeds of two or three Sales got up by Miss Morehead, Miss Barbara Peddie, and other kind helpers, gradually reduced the debt, and one of the last items was given by Mrs. Farquhar, who gave the proceeds of one of her attractive entertainments, where the kind fairies helped a " Poor Highland Shepherd " in his need. A.D. 1908. A generous donor gave the three Altar Panels (the Agnus Dei in the centre, and Angels ^tie Oi'atoj'g in Dail-ant-Sagairt, With the Paten and Chalice belonging to the Church, and the_Meinorial Cross to Dr. Howard oil the right side. KILMAVEONAIG REBUILT 128 in the two side Panels). The work was well executed by Messrs. Bridgeman of Lichfield, who also made the small Pulpit which fills the North corner, close by the Memorial Cross, and is a decided improvement. The Processional Cross was made in Ober-Ammergau, and was subscribed for by a few friends who desired that there should be some memorial to Dr. Howard, to whose care and diligence we owe the House of God, rescued from the unrepair in which he found it. The beautiful hymn (397) we sign every anniversary, well voices our praise for the Repair that has been continued since 1866 ; When the years had wrought the changes, He, our own unchanging God, Thought on this, His habitation, Looked on His decayed Abode, and the last verse lifts our hearts in holy aspiration to our God who is building us — if our wills respond to His — " as living stones " into one Holy Temple acceptable for Him to dwell in. Threefold Power of Grace and Wisdom Moulding out of sinful clay. Living stones for that true Temple Which shall never know decay. The Bishop (the successor of Bishop Wilkinson, Primus in 1907) dedicated these gifts, and preached in the new Pulpit at Evensong on our Patronal Festival (Sept. 23). Before the service we had a Recital of Sacred Music really beautifully rendered by some kind friends and visitors. Then A.D. 1912, on the Thursday in Whitsun Week (May 30), the Bishop again came to dedicate the crown of our efforts — the beautiful Reredos and the Oak PanelHng of the Sanctuary. This had often been in my mind as 124 FACTS & FANCIES ABOUT KILMAVEONAIG desirable, partly because the colour wash on the walls needed to be done again and again, and the fund had reached about £20, when Miss Hamilton Beattie, who had come as an invalid visitor, died and left us £50 in her will, A.D. 1910 ; this seemed to make the Reredos possible, and while I was in charge of S. Adrian's, Gullane, I met Mr. Robert Lorimer (since then knighted), who very kindly gave me the benefit of his valuable advice, the result being the Sanctuary as seen in the photograph. The Crucifix was ordered from Ober-Ammergau. On either side of it we see an angel holding a cup (the artists' design as I have been told being to receive the drops of precious Blood) ; at either end is an Angel ^vith a Trumpet, and near the base of the Reredos are the words, " Ecce Homo," " Ecce Rex," the third " Ecce Agnus Dei " being in the Altar Panel. Looking down upon this is the representation of our Lord enthroned in Glory. The whole of the work, except the Crucifix, is of oak, done under Sir Robert Lorimer's direction in Edinburgh. This description will give our readers some idea of what has been done to beautify God's Sanctuary and the Mercy Seat, over which the King communes with His People. The Bishop based his address on Ps. Ixxii. " The Mountains shall bring Peace," and helpfully linked the mountains round us and those at Ober-Ammergau with that of Calvary. Since the dedication, two Olive Wood Candlesticks, carved in Jerusalem, which I gave the order for when in Jerusalem in the Easter of last year, have been placed at each end of the re-table, suggestive both of Christ as the Light of the World and also as sending The Holy Spirit, by Whose Anointing we know all things. And now our journey together to the Holy Mount and back is ended. We have traversed Highways, Byeways, and Waterways. We have learnt much — at least I have — and I have not failed in my purpose if I have interested you with some Facts and Fancies, even KILMAVEONAIG REBUILT 126 though you may dispute some Facts, and cast some of the Fancies into the waste-paper basket, reserved for things not to be kept. The patches of Hterary merit that I have taken out of various books will, I hope, be welcome, in spite of my clumsy piecing together, and I shall feel rewarded if our " Unique " Church has made clear some points in those troublous times, which now may bring us together, and shew us in Catholic Order and Protestantism (as represented in the Presbyterian form of government), what there is, which can and therefore, ought, to be truly builded together to make the one Holy Temple of the Lord, in which He will dwell for evermore. I would add that where I have dealt with points of difference, I have only expressed my own personal conviction, and that only, so far as I hoped to make clear my position in Scotland as a Catholic protesting against, as I believe, Roman non-Catholic errors. I wish to end with three terse sayings in Latin (be- lieving that Scotland likes to keep a link with the tongue of the learned in the olden times) which seem to exhort us when aiming at any goal in life's journey : — To find guidance in each step taken. To learn the paradox of hastening slowly — and so To pluck the fruit of each day^s journey. — SoLViTUR Ambulando — Festina Lente — Carpe Diem. FINIS, LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 1. The Church and Churchyard, A.D. 1899, \vith Old I"ir Tree near the gate, perhaps jilanted A.D. 1794. 2. The Altar Vessels. At the back the Paten and two Cups, the one on the right (facing yon) pewter, more than 100 years old ; the other apparently bought to match, probably A.D. 1794. Also a Flagon, an Alms Dish, and a Watcr-Crnct of the same metal as the newer Cup. In front of these are the Silver Paten and Chalice, given by Mrs. Morehead, A.D. 1898. 3. South West View of the Church, with the Porch added A.D. 1899. In tlie back ground are seen the graves of Mr. M'Inroy (who purchased Lude, .\.D. 1820) and his descendants. 4. The Font, of Purbock Marlilo, witli old Celtic Carving, a reduced copy of that in the Parish Cliurch, Galwaj- — given bj' Mrs. Alolyneux, A.D. 1900 ; the cover, added the next year, is of oak, surmounted bj- a Cross resting on the orli. This is known to us as part of the Regalia presented to the Sovereign, with the words, " Receive the orb with the Cross set upon it in token that the whole world is subject to the Empire of the Redeemer." 5. The East End, panelled with oak ; the Crucifix in the centre being carved at Oberammergau (see note in letterpress). On the North is the large Stone Slab referred to in Chap. vi. The large Cross by the pulpit was carved at Oberammergau and placed as a memorial to Dr. Howard. On the South of the Sanctuary is the Aumbry, given by Miss May Anderson, in memory of her nephew, FindJay Anderson. fi. View of the Church and Lichgate, 1902. 7. Dail-ant-Sagairt, built A.D. 190fi. The Oratory, which is seen on the left, was brought from my lir.sl house In my present one, A.D. 190fi, me Church and Chiirchi;ard, A.D. 1899. CO UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LIBRARY Los Angeles This book is DUE on the last date stamped below. ^ THE 1S3RARY UNrrERSHT ®F CAUFORNIif LOS ANGELES BR BoTwstead - 136 Fadts^^ahd"fan- G7B6 ciee linked with rolklore about — Kilmaveoriaig UC SOUTHERr: RECIO'lAL MBRARY PAf^lLITY AA 000 973184 5 m 136 G7b6