Frederick RKINfO A PLEASANT ENCOUNTER PIONEEK LIFE ANB FRONTIER ADVENTURES. AN AUTHENTIC RECORD OF THE ROMANTIC LIFK AND DARING EXPLOITS OF KIT CARSON A^D HIS FROM HIS OWN NARRATIVE. BY DEWITT c PETERS, . Brevet Lieutenant-Colonel and Surgeon U. 8. A. LONDON: FREDERICK WARNE AND COMPANY, BEDFORD STREET, STRAND. THE AUTHOR'S PREFACE. THE pages here presented to the public form a book of facts. They unfold for the student, as does no other work vet extant, the great interior wilderness of the Territories be- longing to the United States. The scenic views, though plainly colored and wrought by the hand of an unpretending artist, inasmuch as they portray a part of the North American continent which is unsurpassed by any other country on the face of the earth, will not fail to interest the American pub- lic. In addition to this, the reader is introduced to an inti- mate acquaintance with the Indian races of the countries which lie east and west of the Rocky Mountains. The savage warrior and hunter is presented, stripped of all the deco- rations with which writers of fiction have dressed him. He -en in his ferocity and gentleness, in his rascality and nobility, in his boyhood, manhood, and old age, and in his wi-clom and ignorance. The attentive reader will learn of his approximations to truth, his bundle of superstitions, his acts at home and on the war-path, his success while follow- ing the buffalo, and engaging the wild Rocky Mountain bear, that terror of the western wilderness. He will also behold him carrying devastation to the homes of the New Mexican settlers, and freely spilling their best blood to satiate a savage revenge. He will see him attacking and massacring parties of white men traveling across the prairies, and trace him in his savage wars with the early settlers and frontiersmen. In order to acquire these important data, that they might be added to the pages of American history and form a reli- Vlll THE AUTHOR S PREFACE. able record, it was necessary that some brave, bold and deter- mined man should become an actor on the scenes and among the races described. Such an actor has been Christopher Car- son, the Nestor of the Rocky Mountains ; and, it is the expe- rience, as well as the acts of his stirring life, which the fol- lowing pages present. In olden times there existed, in the Rocky Mountains, a race familiarly known by the name of " Trappers and Hunt- ers." They are now almost extinct. Their history has not yet been written. Pen paintings, drawn from the imagina- tion, founded upon distant views of their exploits and adven- tures, have occasionally served, as do legends, to "adorn a tale." The volume now offered to the public, gives their history as related by one whose name, as a trapper and hunter of the " Far West," stood second to none ; by a man who, for fifteen years, saw not the face of a white woman, or slept under a roof; who, during those long years, with his rifle alone, killed thousands upon thousands of buffalo, deer, ante- lope, bears and elk, wild turkeys, prairie chickens, etc., etc., in numbers beyond calculation. On account of their origi- nality, daring and interest, the real facts concerning this race of trappers and hunters, will be handed down to posterity as matters belonging to history. As is the case with the Indian, the race of the " Simon Pure Trapper " is nearly run. The advance of civilization, keeping up its untiring march to the westward, is daily en- croaching upon their wild haunts, and bringing the day close at hand when warrior and trapper will depart forever to their " Happy Hunting Grounds." With the extinction of the great fur companies, the trap- pers of " Olden Time," disbanded and separated. The greatest number of these men, to be found at the pres- ent day, reside in the Territory of New Mexico, Avhich, in the time of their prosperity, was the country where they located their head-quarters. In this Territory, Christopher Carson resided. His name, in the Rocky Mountains, has been famil- iarly known for nearly half a century ; and, from its associa- THE AUTIIOE S PREFACE. IX tion with the names of great explorers and military men, is now spread throughout the civilized world. It has been gen- erally conceded, and the concession has become strengthened by time, that no small share of the benefits derived from these explorations and campaigns, as well as the safety of the com- mands themselves, was due to the sagacity, skill, experience, advice and labor, of Christopher Carson. His sober habits, strict honor, and great regard for truth, endeared him to all who called him friend ; and, among such, may be enumerated names belonging to some of the most dis- tinguished men, whose deeds are recorded on the pages of American history. His past life was a mystery which this book will unveil. Instead of Kit Carson as by imagination a bold braggart, and reckless, improvident hero of the rifle he will appear a retired man, and one who was very reserved in his intercourse with others. It is years since the writer of this work first met Christo- pher Carson. It needed neither a second introduction, nor the assistance of a friendly panegyric, to enable him to dis- cover in Christopher Carson those traits of manhood, which are esteemed by the great and good to be distinguishing ornaments of character. This acquaintance ripened into .a friendship of the purest stamp, and to the time of his death, the writer was the intimate friend and companion of Carson, at his home, in the wild scenes of the chase, on the war trail, and upon the field of battle. For a long period, in common with hundreds, and, we might with truth add, thou- sands, the writer desired to see Christopher Carson's wonderful career made public for the world of readers ; but, while this idea was germinating in his brain, he did not, for an instant, flatter himself that the pleasant task would ever be assigned to him. Finally, however, at the urgent solicitation of many personal friends, Christopher Carson dictated the facts upon which this book is written. They were placed in the writer's hands, with instructions to add to them such information as had fallen under his observation, during a long and intimate acquaintance with Kit Carson, and during extensive travels X THE AUTHOR S PREFACE. over a large part of the wide expanse of country, which has been Carson's theatre for action. Owing to unfortunate circumstances, however, the work has been kept out of the market, until the urgent demands of the hundreds of admirers of the world-renowned " Kit," for an authentic history of his life and adventures, has encour- aged the author to place the work before the public in its present form. The book is a book of solid truth ; therefore, the faults in the style, arrangement and composition, become affairs of minor consideration. For this reason, the writer makes no apologies to embarrass the critics. Christopher Carson, physically, was small in stature, but of compact frame-work. He had a large and finely developed head, a twinkling gray eye, and hair of a sandy color, which he wore combed back a la Franklin mode. His education having been much neglected in his youth, he was deficient in theoretical learning. By natural abilities, however, he greatly compensated for this defect. He spoke the French and Span- ish languages fluently, besides being a perfect master of sev- eral Indian dialects. In Indian customs, their manners, habits, and the groundwork of their conduct, no man on the Ameri- can continent was better skilled. The writer, while on a foreign tour, once had the opportu- nity and pleasure of hearing Gordon dimming, and other hunters of less note, discourse on their hunting exploits ; fur- thermore, in our own country, while seated around camp- fires and in log-houses, he has listened to the adventures of ancient and modern Nimrods in the chase. Besides these facts, he has both seen and read much of hunting exploits ; but no hunter ever filled his fancy so perfectly as did Christo- pher Carson, a man Avho was always quick to act and never known to boast. Although he has passed to the Happy Hunting Grounds of eternity, his name will always stand bright in the annals of history, as one that has contributed in no small degree to the success of some of the greatest and most successful exploring expeditions known to the world. LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. A PLEASANT ENCOUNTER Frontispiece. TO FACE PAGE PERILS OF FRONTIER LIFE vii CROSSING THE SIERRA NEVADA 24 RIVER SCENE IN NEW MEXICO 40 SPANISH MONASTERY IN CALIFORNIA 44 SIIOSHONEE FALLS, SNAKE RIVER, IDAHO 56 THE GARDEN OF THE GODS 60 EMIGRANTS ON WESTERN WATERS 76 HUNTERS AND TRAPPERS IN THE WEST 84 FIGHT WITH GRIZZLY BEARS 90 HOME OF THE GRIZZLY BEAR 98 WHOOPING INDIANS 102 PUNISHING A BRAGGADOCIO 112 RESTORATION OF CAPTIVES 116 UPPER FALLS, YELLOWSTONE RIVER 118 YELLOWSTONE LAKE 118 A BLACKFEET WARRIOR 128 THE DEATH SHOT 136 LONG'S PEAK 142 AN INDIAN WAR-DANCE 146 BASIN ON THE COLUMBIA RIVER 154 THE PIPE OF PEACE 166 KlT AND HIS FAVORITE HORSE "APACHE" 168 BUFFALO HUNT 174 THE FIRST WHITE MEN ON "Tire GREAT RIVER" 182 A PERILOUS PASSAGE DOWN THE PLATTE 102 LAKE KLAMATH 204 MINING IN COLORADO 210 SETTLERS MASSACRED BY INDIANS 214 A BOLD ATTACK 220 STREET SCENE IN TAGS 230 A MEXICAN CART 234 THE PUEBLO OF TAOS 234 ILLUSTRATIONS. TO tJi.CZ PACT A MEXICAN GARDEN 238 A VIEW ON THE PLAINS . . 244 MOUNT SHASTA 252 A FIGHT IN THE LAVA BEDS 204 FREMONT SAVES CARSON'S LIFE 270 MISSION AT MONTEREY 274 FREMONT IN THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS 302 "WARLIKE EXERCISES OF THE CAMANCHES 314 EMIGRANTS ATTACKED BY INDIANS 326 HACIENDA AT RAYADO 334 MRS. WHITE A CAPTIVE 336 A TERRIFIC SNOW-STORM 346 Rio COLORADO 362 FINE LANDS WELL WATERED ' 368 " Lo ! THE POOR INDIAN " 378 TORTURE A LA MAZEPPA 394 GOLD-WASHING IN CALIFORNIA 410 A PRAIRIE ON FIRE 418 AN INDIAN STRONGHOLD 426 MOUNTAIN SCENERY 430 FIGHT WITH THE RED SKINS 450 A MOUNTAIN GORGE 474 FORT MASSACHUSETTS, NEW MEXICO, IN 1855 484 A CAPTIVE CHILD PLEADING FOR MERCY 490 THRILLING ADVENTURE WITH AN APACHE 502 INDIAN SCALP DANCE 508 AN INDIAN VILLAGE ON THE MOVE 512 SLAUGHTER OP THE INDIANS 522 ATTACK ON WAGON TRAIN 530 KIT CARSON'S HOME AT TAGS, NEW MEXICO 536 BORDER SETTLERS 546 THE NAVAJOES IN CAMP 550 PIONEER LIFE AND FRONTIER ADVENTURE. OHAPTEE I. Carsou's Birthplace His Emigration to Missouri Early Prospects Is an Apprentice Stories of the Rocky Mountains He Enlists to go there Adventures on the Prairies Broader is Wounded Carson's Nerve put to the Test Rude Amputation Safe Arrival at Santa Fe Goes to Taos and learns the Spanish Language Early Vicissitudes Disappointment and Attempt to return to Missouri Wants a Woolen Shirt Is Employed as an Interpreter, Teamster, etc. IT is now a well-established fact; that no State in the American Union has given birth to so many distin- guished pioneers and explorers of its boundless Terri- tories, as the commonwealth of Kentucky. An author, whose task is to tell of a hero, his bravery, endurance, privations, integrity, self-denial and deeds of daring, carries the morale with which to gain at once for these characteristics the assent of the reader, by the simple assertion, "My hero was born a Kentuckian." In- deed, in America, to be a native of the State of Ken- tucky, is to inherit all the attributes of a brave man, a safe counselor and a true friend. It is, at least, cer- tain that this State, whether the fact is due to its in- land and salubrious climate, or to its habits of physical training, has added many a hero unto humanity. 20 EMIGRATION TO MISSOURI. Christopher Carson, by his countrymen familiarly called " Kit Carson," was born in the County of Madi- son, State of Kentucky, on the 24th day of December, 1809. The Carson family were among the first set- tlers of Kentucky, and became owners of fine farms. Besides being an industrious and skillful farmer, the father of Kit Carson was a celebrated hunter. When the Indians of Kentucky became quieted down, put- ting an end to the calls upon his courage and skill as a woodsman, he settled into a simple, respectable farmer. This monotonous life did not suit his dispo- sition ; and, as the tide of emigration into the wilds of Missouri was then commencing, where both game and the red man still roamed, he resolved to migrate in that direction. It was only one year after the birth of his son Christopher, that Mr. Carson sold his estate in Kentucky and established himself, with his large family, in that part of the State of Missouri now known as Howard County. At this time Howard County, Mis- souri, was a wilderness, on the remote American fron- tier. At his new home, the father was in his element. His reputation of carrying an unerring rifle and always enacting the deeds of a brave man, was not long in fol- lowing him into this wilderness. Mr. Carson's only assistant, on his first arrival in Howard County, was his eldest son, Moses Carson, who was afterwards set- tled in the State of California, where he resided twenty- five years before the great California gold discovery was made. For two or three years after arriving at their new home, the Carson family, with a few neighbors, lived in a picketed log fort; and when they were engaged in agricultural pursuits, working their farms, and so forth, A LIFE OF DANGER. 21 it was necessary to plough, sow and reap under guard, men being stationed at the sides and extremities of their fields to prevent the working party from being surprised and massacred by wild and hostile savages who infested the country. At this time the small-po^, that disease which has proved such a terrible scourge to the Indian, had but seldom visited him.* The incidents which enliven and add interest to the historic page, have proved of spontaneous and vigor- ous growth in the new settlements of America. Nearly every book which deals with the early planting and progress of the American colonists and pioneers, con- tains full, and frequently glowing, descriptions of ex- ploits in the forest ; strifes of the hunter ; fights with the savages ; fearful and terrible surprises of lurking warriors, as they arouse the brave settler and his fam- *This disease has probably been the worst enemy with which the red man of America has had to contend. By terrible experience he has become familiarized with its ravages, and has resorted to the most desperate remedies for its cure. Among many tribes, the afflicted are obliged to form camps by themselves ; and, thus left alone, they die by scores. One of their favorite remedies, when the scourge first makes its appearance, is to plunge into the nearest river, by which they think to purify themselves. This course, however, in reality, tends to shorten their existence. When the small-pox rages among the Aborig- ines, a most unenviable position is held by their '' Medicine Man." He is obliged to give a strict account of himself; and, if so unfortunate as to lose a chief, or other great person- age, is sure to pay the penalty by parting with his own life. The duties of the " Medicine Man " among the Indians are so mixed up with witchcraft and jugglery, so filled with the pretence of savage quackery, so completely rude and unfounded as to principle, that it is impossible to define the practice for any useful end. About five years since, a young gen- tleman of scientific habits, who was attached to an exploring party, accidentally became separated from his companions. In his wanderings he fell in with a band of hostile Sioux Indians, who would quickly have dispatched him, had he not succeeded immediately in convincing them of his wonderful powers. It so happened that this gentleman was well informed in the theory of vaccination, and it struck him that by impressing on the sav- ages his skill, he might extricate himself. By the aid of signs, a lancet and some virus, he set himself to work, and soon saw that he had gained a reputation which saved him his scalp. He first vaccinated his own arm, after which all of the Indians present solicited his magic touch, to save them from the loathsome disease. The result was, that he found lie had enlisted himself in an active practice. After a few days, the Indians were de- lighted with the results, and began to look upon their prisoner as possessed of super- human knowledge. They feared to do him injury, and finally resolved to let him go; of which privilege it is almost unnecessary to say, he was delighted to avail himself, and was not long in finding his friends. 22 EAELY PROSPECTS. ily from their midnight dreams by the wild, death- announcing war-whoop ; hair-breadth escapes from the larger kinds of game, boldly bearded in their lair ; the manly courage which never yields, but surmounts every obstacle presented by the unbroken and boundless for- est; all these are subjects and facts which have already so many counterparts in book-thought, accessible to the general reader, that their details may be safely omitted during the boyhood days of young Carson. It is bet- ter, therefore, to pass over the youthful period of his eventful life, until he began to ripen into manhood. Kit Carson, at fifteen years of age, was no ordinary person. He had at this early age earned, and well earned, a reputation, on the basis of which the prediction was ventured in his behalf, that he would not fail to make and leave a mark upon the hearts of his country- men. Those who knew him at the age of fifteen hesi- tated not to say, " Kit Carson is the boy who will grow into a man of influence and renown." The chief points of his character which elicited this prediction were thus early clearly marked. Some of his traits were kindness and good qualities of heart, deter- mined perseverance, indomitable will, unflinching cour- age, great quickness and shrewdness of perception, and promptitude in execution. The predictions uttered by the hardy rangers of the forest concerning a boy like Carson are seldom at fault ; and Kit was one who, by many a youthful feat worthy the muscle of riper years. had endeared himself to their honest love. It was among such men and for such reason that Kit Carson, thus early in life, had won the influence and rewards of a general favorite. His frame was slight, below the medium stature, APPRENTICED TO A HARNESS-MAKER. 23 closely knit together, and endowed with extraordinary elasticity. He had, even then, stood the test of much hard usage. What the body lacked in strength was more than compensated for by his indomitable will ; consequently, at this early age, he was considered capable of performing a frontier man's work, both in tilling the soil and handling the rifle. It was at this period of his eventful life that his father, acting partially under the advice of friends, determined that his son Kit should learn a trade. A few miles from Kit's forest home there lived a Mr. David Workman, a saddler. To him he was apprenticed. With Mr. Work- man young Carson remained two years, enjoying both the confidence and respect of his employer ; but, mourn- ing over the awl, the hide of new leather, the buckle and strap, for the glorious shade of the mighty forest, ':he wild battle with buffalo and bear, the crack of the unerring rifle, pointed at the trembling deer. Saddlery Is an honorable employment ; but saddlery never made a greater mistake than when it strove to hitch to its traces the bold impulse, the wild yearning, the sinewy muscle of Kit Carson. Harness-making was so irksome to his ardent temperament and brave heart, that he resolved to take advantage of the first favorable oppor- tunity and quit it forever. With him, to resolve was to act. During the latter part of his stay with Mr. Work- man, many stories of adventures in the Rocky Moun- tains reached the ear of the youthful Kentuckian in his Missouri home. The almost miraculous hyperbole, which flavored the narratives were not long in awakening in his breast a strong desire to share in such stirring events. The venturesome mind at last became inspired. He determined to go ; and, giving his restless spirit full DANGEROUS TKAVELING. 25 of meaning which the word extends, literally, an ex- plorer, whose chosen object was the task of a hero. The Indians themselves could give no information of the route beyond the confined limits of their hunting-ranges. The path which this pioneer party entered was existent only in the imagination of the book-making geographer, about as accurate and useful from its detail as the route of Baron Munchausen to the icelands of the North Pole on the back of his eagle. The w^hole expanse of the rolling prairie, to those brave hearts, was one boundless uncertainty. This language may possibly be pro- nounced redundant. It may be in phrase ; it is not in fact. The carpet-knight, the holiday ranger, the book- worm explorer, knows but little of the herculean work which has furnished for the world a practical knowledge of the western half of the North American continent. We shall see in the progress of this work whether the adventures of Kit Carson entitle him to a place in the heart of the American nation on the same shelf with his compeers. In that day, the fierce red-man chief scoured the broad prairies, a petty king in his tribe, a ruler of his wild domain. Bold, haughty, cautious, wily, unrelent- ing, revengeful, he led his impassioned warriors in the chase and to battle. Even to-day the lurking Indian foeman is no mean adversary to be laughed and brushed out of the way, notwithstanding disease, war, assassina- tion and necessary chastisement have united rapidly to decimate his race, thereby gradually lessening its power. Fifty years ago the'rolling plains were alive with them, and their numbers alone made them formidable. It is not strange that the untutored savages of the prairie, like those of their race who hailed with ungovernable 26 TRUE INDIAN CHARACTER. curiosity the landing of the Pilgrims on Plymouth Rock, should have been attracted by the wonderful inventions of the white-man intruder. A very short period of time served to turn this ungovernable curi- osity into troublesome thieving. Knowing no law but their wild traditionary rules, they wrested from the ad- venturous pioneer his rifle, knife, axe, wagon, harness, horse, powder, ball, flint, watch, compass, cooking uten- sils, and so forth. The result was, sanguinary engage- ments ensued, which led to bitter hostility between the two races. Doubtless the opinion may be controverted, but it nevertheless shall be hazarded, that, until the weaker party shall be exterminated by the stronger, the w r ild war-whoop, with its keen-edged knife and death-dealing rifle accompaniments, will continue, from time to time, to palsy the nerve, and arouse the cour- age of the pioneer white man. The Indian, in his at- tack, no longer showers cloth-yard arrows upon his foe. He has learned to kill his adversary with the voice of thunder and the unseen bullet. The bold traveler, whose pathway lies over those great high-roads which lead to the Pacific must still watch for the red man's ambush by day, and by night sleep under the protecting vigilance of the faithful, quick-sighted sentinel. The savage never forgives his own or his ancestor's foe. Every generation of them learns from tradition, the trials and exploits of its tribe. From earliest boyhood these form the burden of their education in history ; and, on performing the feat of courage or strength which admits them to the councils of the braves, their nation's wrongs are uppermost in their thoughts, causing them to thirst for a revenge which sooner or later gives them a THE HUNTER'S "HOUNDS." 27 grave, making themselves, in turn, an object of re- venge. It has already appeared that when Kit Carson en- tered upon his first expedition, game was to be had in abundance. His route lay across the western wilds to Santa Fe. All this distance the bulk of provisions, con- sisting of a small quantity of flour and bacon, had to be transported by himself and his companions. These articles were kept as a reserve, and were looked upon as luxuries ; for that man was estimated to be a very poor shot who could not obtain, with his rifle, all the animal food he required for his individual sustenance. These hunters, however, well understood the laws which -govern and the advantages which follow division of la- bor. Everything was so arranged, both for this and subsequent expeditions, by which a regular hunter was appointed, and each man assigned some particu- lar duty according to his capacity. These appoint- ments were usually made by the leader of the party, whose supervision was acknowledged by general con- sent on account of his known experience and capa- bility. This plan was the more necessary in order to avoid confusion. The caravan had hardly launched out on its long and tedious tramp, when an accident occurred which came very near proving serious in its results. For sev- eral days the men had been greatly annoyed by wolves who appeared more than usually ravenous and bold. There are two species of these animals found on the western prairie. One is small, called the Jackal ; the other much larger. The latter, or larger species, are found of various colors, but more frequently grey. The color, however, varies with the season, and often from 28 AN UNPLEASANT SERENADE. other causes. Many of their habits are strikingly sim- ilar to those of the domestic dog, with the simple dif- ference that the wolf is unreclaimed from his wild state. The connecting link between the prairie wolf and the domestic dog, is the cur found among the Indi- ans. The Indian cur, by a casual observer, could be easily mistaken for a prairie wolf. Near the Rocky Mountains, and in them, these animals are found of immense size ; but, being cowardly, they are not dan- gerous. The first night a person sleeps on a prairie is ever afterwards vividly impressed upon his mem- ory. The serenade of the wolves, with which he is honored, is apt to be distinctly remembered. It is far from agreeable, and seldom fails to awaken unpleas- ant forebodings concerning the future ; and, the idea that these fellows may be soon cleaning his bones is not very genial to the fancy. To the wolf, the grave- yard is anything but consecrated ground ; and, if a person is very chary of his cadaver, he had better not leave it on the Western Plains. The wolf is quite choice in his viands whenever the opportunity offers, and will., at any time, leave the carcass of an Indian for that of a white man. Old frontiersmen, speaking of the wolves, usually style them as " their dogs ;" and, after a night when these animals have kept up an in- cessant barking, they will express wonder by asking what has been disturbing " their hounds." The flesh of the mountain wolf, when cooked, has something of the smell and taste of mutton, but it is very rank. In order to frighten the wolves, the teamsters would occasionally shoot them. One of the members of the expedition, named Broader, was obliged to take a fresh rifle from a wagon. In taking the gun out, the hammer A TERRIBLE ACCIDENT. 29 of the lock caught against some projecting object, which caused it to be partially set. Having become freed, however, before it was fully set, it came down and fired the gun. The contents of the barrel were sent through the man's arm. No member of the expedition was conversant with surgical knowledge. Here was an occasion to shake the nerves of any feeling man ; and, beneath the rough exterior of the western ranger, there runs as deep a stream of true humanity as can be found anywhere on the American continent. Every sugges- tion was offered and every effort was put forth which heart feeling chained to anxiety and the terrible neces- sity, could offer. Every remedy which promised a good result was duly weighed ; and, if pronounced worthy of trial, it was adopted. The sufferer had kind, though rough nurses ; but the absence of scientific skill, under such emergency, proved a sad want for the unfortunate man. Notwithstanding their united efforts, Broader's arm grew alarmingly worse. It soon became manifest to all that he must part with his arm, or lose his life ; perhaps both. At this critical period a consultation was held, in which the suffering patient joined. Due deliberation was extended to all the symptoms. The giving of advice in such a council by men who could only give judgment from an imaginary stand-point, must strike the heart of true sympathy as having been pain- ful in no ordinary degree. After every possible argu- ment had been offered in favor of saving the arm, the final decision of the council was that it must come off. The next difficulty which presented itself was quite as formidable as the expression of a correct judgment. Who should perform the office of surgeon ? was the knotty question. Again the consultations became ex- 30 KIT'S NEEVE PUT TO THE TEST. citing and intensely painful. The members of the council, however, took it upon themselves to designate the persons, and chose Carson with two others. These immediately set at work to execute their sad but neces- sary task. The arrangements were all hastily, but care- fully made, and the cutting begun. The instruments used were a razor, an old saw, and, to arrest the hemor- rhage, the king bolt taken from one of the wagons was heated and applied to serve as an actual cautery. The operation, rudely performed, with rude instruments, by unpractised hands, excited to action only by the spur of absolute necessity, proved, nevertheless, entirely successful. Before the caravan arrived at Santa Fe, the patient had so far recovered that he was able to take care of himself. Besides this unfortunate affair, nothing worthy of note transpired, beyond the general record of their route, during the remainder of their journey. The latter would be too voluminous for the general reader, and has already served its purpose as an assistant to other ex- ploring parties, both from published account and con- versational directions. The party entered Santa Fe in the month of November. Very soon after, Kit Carson left his companions and proceeded to Fernandez de Taos, a Mexican town, which lies about eighty miles to the north-east of the capital of New Mexico. During the winter that followed his arrival in the territory of New Mexico, Kit lived with an old mountaineer by the name of Kin Cade, who very kindly offered him a home It was at this period of his life that he commenced studying the Spanish language. His friend Kin Cade became his assistant in this task. At the same time Kit neglected no opportunity to learn all he could POVERTY AND DISAPPOINTMENT. 31 about the Rocky Mountains. He little thought, then, that these earth-formed giants were to become his future home, and so gloriously to herald his name throughout the entire civilized globe. The pinching effects of want now attacked poor Kit. He could obtain no employment. His expectations in this respect, as well as his earnest efforts, received so little encouragement that he began, finally, to despond. Extreme poverty is a wet damper on the fires of the best genius ; but, as was the case with Kit, it does not effectually put it out. Kit saw with sorrow that he must retrace his steps. To obtain means to carry out his ardent desires, in the spring of 1827 he started on a backward trip to Missouri. Every step he took in this direction was accompanied with such displeasure, that had it not been his best and surest policy, he would have mastered any difficulties of another and better course, had such offered. Four hundred and fifty miles from Santa Fe, being about one-half the distance across the prairies, had been accomplished by the party Kit had joined for this homeward trip. The fording of the Arkansas River had been reached. Here Kit's party met with some traders bound for New Mex- ico. They offered him employment, which he gladly accepted ; and, in their company, retraced his steps back to Santa Fe'. But when arrived at Santa Fe, Kit found himself again without money. He was afforded an opportunity to obtain a wardrobe, but to the moun- taineer, such property would be entirely a superfluity. He feels nearly independent on the score of clothing, as he considers that he needs but little raiment, .and that little he is always proud to owe to his beloved rifle. This brings to his hand buckskins in plenty, and 32 KIT WANTS A "WOOLEN SHIRT." his own ingenuity is the fashion-plate by which they are manufactured into wearable and comfortable ves- ture. There is one article of clothing, however, for which the frontiersman feels an ardent predilection. It is a woolen shirt. This article, Kit really needed ; and, in equal pace with his necessity, ran his anxiety that something should offer by which to obtain one. The reader may smile at this ; and, so did Kit, as he afterwards recounted the fact in his own inimitable style. But Kit said that to obtain a woolen shirt then, was, to him, no laughing matter. At a moment when he almost despaired of gaining employment, he received an offer to go as a teamster with an expedi- tion bound to El Paso. This opportunity was a chance for success not to be lost, and he closed with the prop- osition. After faithfully performing his engagement, he, however, returned to Santa Fe, where he made a short stay, and then proceeded to Taos. In this town Kit entered into the service of Mr. Ewing Young, who was a trader and trapper. The reader may prepare again for a smile, as he will now learn that Kit became a cook. Mr. Ewing Young had the satisfaction of boasting that the renowned Kit Carson once performed the responsible and arduous duties of a master cook in the culinary department of his establishment ; and that, for these valuable services, labor, care and dili- gence, he gave to Kit, as a quid pro quo, his board. In this way Kit supported himself in his straitened circumstances until the following spring. What was the bright thought which made the bold, the ardent, the energetic Kit Carson accept this menial office ? Surely the brain metal which was so brightly polished when he set out from Howard County, Mis- INTERPRETER AND TEAMSTER. 33 souri, must have been sadly rusted. Not so ! The hope which buoyed up his spirits while he attempted to rival French pastry and English beef with American venison and Buffalo meat on the table of Mr. Ewing Young, was that some trapper, or hunter, would come into Taos, their favorite place of resort ; and, by being ready for an emergency, he would obtain an opportu- nity for gaining a permission to join them. His inten- tion was certainly good, but it lacked the bright crown of good intention success. In the spring of 1828 ? much chagrined with his, so far, continued bad luck, and no prospect of gaining his object appearing, he again joined a homeward-bound party and with it, sor- rowfully, started for Missouri. But, as on the former trip homeward, he met on the route a party bound for Santa Fe. That indomitable ingredient in his compo- sition, an iron will, caused him once more to turn his face westward. He joined this party and returned to Santa Fe, in order again to tempt fortune for an oppor- tunity to reach the Rocky Mountains. But during all these changes and counterchanges Kit had not been idle. He had picked up considerable knowledge, and, to his other stock of accomplishments, had added the ability to speak the Spanish language. On arriving once more at Santa Fe, he fell in with Col. Tramell, who was at that time a well-known trader. Col. Tramell needed a Spanish interpreter. Kit obtained the post, and set out with him for Chi- huahua, one of the Mexican States. Here again Kit made a change in his employment. In Chihuahua he fell in with Mr. Robert McKnight. To him he hired out as a teamster, and in this capacity went to the cop- per mines which arc found near to the Rio Gila. Amid 34 NO THOUGHT OF DANGER. the weary necessities of this humble but honorable calling, Kit's heart was constantly alive with ambition to become a hunter and trapper. He knew that he was expert with the rifle, which had been his boyish toy, and felt confident that he could rely upon it as an assistant to gain an honest living. His constant thought at this time was, let him now be engaged in whatever calling chance offered and necessity caused him to accept, the final pursuit of his life would be as a hunter and trapper. Here, then, is presented a fair example of the strife, Tjoth inward and outward, through which a young man of courage and ambition must expect to pass before he can win position, influ- ence, and the comforts of life, whatever the scene of his action, or whatever the choice of employment suit- able to his talent and genius. Kit Carson was deter- mined, no matter what might be the obstacles which presented themselves, to be a hunter and trapper. The reader will have made a sad mistake if he has concluded, that during the time which has intervened since Kit started from Missouri, he has been roaming in a country where there was less danger than when he was in the picketed fort with his father. Such a supposition would be greatly at fault. The towns in New Mexico, at this early period, were almost entirely at the mercy of the Indians. The Mexicans were nearly destitute of means to defend themselves. Very few of the Anglo-Saxon race had entered this territory, and those who had were, in turn, exposed to the vacillating wills of the proverbially treacherous Mexicans. A man like Kit Carson, however, born and bred in danger, cared but little about this state of affairs. The dangers did not enter into his calculations of chance to over- ARRIVES AT TAGS. Bi> come the difficulties which beset the pathway which the alluring hopes of his ambition had marked out. Not long afterward he left the copper mines, and once more bent his steps to Taos, in company with a small party. At Taos he found a band of trappers which had been sent out by Mr. Ewing Young. While en route for the River Colorado, in pursuit of game, they had been attacked by a band of Indians. After fighting an entire day, they had been compelled to retreat, and returned to New Mexico. 36 AFTER THE INDIANS. 'CHAPTER II. The News of the Defeat of Mr. Young's Trapping Party by the Indiana reaches Taos Young raises a Party to Chastise the Indians Kit Car- son becomes a Conspicuous Member of the Expedition The Indians are found on Salt River The Fight Trapping Exploits A new Country Trials and Vicissitudes Sacramento Valley California and its Roman Catholic Missions in 1829 Another Indian Fight Sale of Furs Indian Depredations Kit Carson and .Twelve Trap- pers engage with the Indians in a Battle Return to the Camp with recovered Property. THE news of the attack and defeat of his men by the Indians was brought to Mr. Ewing Young at Taos by a member of the unfortunate expedition. On learning the causes which brought this unpleasant termination to his enterprise, Mr. Young raised a party of forty men, consisting of Americans, Canadians, and Frenchmen, and put himself at its head. Kit Carson was received into the party, and soon became one of its most prom- inent and efficient aids. Mr. Young's object was two- fold first, to chastise the Indians ; and, second, to make all he could out of the expedition by employing the men in their calling as trappers. Under the Mexican laws, licenses were required from the Government to all Mexicans who set out on trapping expeditions. These were not granted to citizens of the United States. This was not the mere will of governmental officials v the Mexican statutory law prohibited the granting of licenses to citizens of the United States. This law was, KIT'S FIRST INDIAN FIGHT. 37 however, often made a dead letter by Americans, for they frequently but stealthily evaded it. In order, therefore, to hoodwink the Mexican authorities, Mr. Young had to resort to various expedients. His prep- arations were so carefully and secretly made, that the real business he had in contemplation did not transpire, or even a suspicion gain currency as to his intended whereabouts. In April, 1829, the party set out, eager to bring about results equal to their anticipations. At first, to avoid the curiosity and inquiring disposition of the Mexicans, they traveled northward, as if their destination was into the territory of the United States. Hints had been suf- ficiently freely bestowed upon the Mexicans to lead them to believe that such was the destination of the party. After journeying fifty miles in this direction, and feeling themselves free from the scrutiny of the Mexican authorities, they changed their course to the south-west, and traveled through the country occupied by the Navajoes, an interesting and dangerous race of Indians, over which, at a later day, Kit Carson achieved the greatest victory ever known in Indian warfare. On their route, the company passed through Zuni, a Peublo town ; thence they traveled to the head of Salt Eiver, one of the tributaries of the Rio Gila. Here they dis- covered the band of Indians who had attacked and defeated the formerparty. As soon as the Indians dis- covered the party of trappers, they became eager for the affray. The usual preliminaries for such fights were, therefore, quickly made on both sides. Young directed the greater part of his men to lie in ambush, for he felt confident that the Indians did not know his strength. The bands of savages who covered the hills 38 THE RED-SKINS DEFEATED. round about mistook the halt necessary to complete the ambush for cowardice and fear on the part of the whites. At this their courage arose to such a degree that they made a bold charge against, as they supposed, the small party of white men who were visible. They were allowed to advance well into the trap, until, by the position of the trappers in ambush, they came under a cross-fire. At the word of command, a general volley was fired into the advance column. Fifteen warriors fell dead, and many others were wounded. The Indians became panic-stricken, and the trappers immediately following up their advantage, advanced from cover. The war- riors did not rally for a second attack, but fled in every direction, leaving Young, with his party, masters of the field. Strange as it has ever seemed, to the inquiring mind, in those days and for many succeeding years, companies of white men from fifty to sixty in number could wage successful war against whole tribes of In- dians, who could easily muster a thousand fighting men. A reason often given for this is, that the trappers of the western wilds are invariably " dead shots" with the rifle and well versed in Indian strategy. On the other hand, the red men were, comparatively speaking, poorly armed, and could not travel together for any length of time in large parties, because they depended for food chiefly upon hunting. Had there existed no other cause, the means of obtaining provision being limited, must have compelled them to separate. Very frequently whole tribes are reduced to depend upon daily hunts. The bravery of the Indians is of a dif- ferent stamp from that which is exhibited by the whites, especially where the white man is a Simon-pure western trapper. The white man on the prairie or in the moun- OFF FOR CALIFORNIA. 39 tains knows but too well that, if attacked by Indians, he must conquer or die. It was, and is, seldom that a company out on an expedition has any place of refuge to which it may retreat. Here is the principal reason why the trapper is so seldom defeated. He cannot afford to lose his life to a certainty, and consequently will not allow a defeat. After this fight, Young's party trapped down the Salt River to San Francisco River, and thence on up to the head of the latter stream. The Indians failed not to hover on their pathway, and to make nightly at- tacks upon their party. Frequently they would crawl into camp and steal a trap, or kill a mule or a horse, and do whatever other damage they could secretly. At the head of the San Francisco River the company was divided. It was so arranged, that one party was to proceed to the valley of the Sacramento in Califor- nia. Of this detachment Kit Carson was a member. The other party had orders to return to New Mexico for the purpose of procuring traps to replace those stolen. This latter party was also commissioned to take and dispose of the stock of beaver already on hand. The party bound for California was eighteen in number. Of this party Mr. Young took command. Previous to setting out, a few days were devoted to hunting. They only succeeded, however, in killing three deer. The meat of these animals they prepared to take with them, as they were about to journey into a country never before explored. The skins of the three deer were converted into tanks for carrying wa- ter. They had learned from some friendly Indians that the country over which they had to pass en route was destitute of water. The red men told them addition- 40 SCENTING WATER FROM AFAR. ally that the valley (meaning the Sacramento) was beautiful, and that the streams were full of beaver. All of this information the trappers found was true. For four days they traveled over a barren country, where not one drop of water could be found. At each night's camping-place, small allowances of water from the tanks was distributed by the commander to each man and animal. A guard was then stationed over the remainder to prevent any accident from depriving the company of this now precious article of sustenance. At the close of the fourth day, however, they again found water. The instinct exhibited by the pack mules on this occasion was truly remarkable. Long before any member of the party thought that water was so near, the mules, with unerring certainty, had smelt it, and each one, according to his remaining strength, had hurried on to partake of it. The result was, that when the first mule had reached the water, the remainder were scattered along upon the trail for a great distance. The company encamped here, and remained two days to recruit. The journey was renewed on the third day, the route being still over a similar kind of country, necessitating both man and beast to submit to similar privations as to water. In four days more they came in sight of the great Canon of the Colorado, which failed not to awaken a thrill of delight in every member of the party. Just before reaching the Canon they met a party of Mohave Indians, of whom they purchased an old mare. She was killed and eaten by the party with great gusto. The party remained three days on the banks of the Colorado recruiting their strength. While remaining here, another party of Mohave Indians visited them, LOSING A RIVER. 41 from whom they procured a small quantity of corn and beans. Leaving the Colorado, they recommenced their journey and traveled south-west. In three days they arrived at a stream which rises in the coast range, runs north-east and is lost in the sands of the Great Basin. About two years previous to their arrival here, three trappers by the names of Smith, Sublet t, and Jackson, with a large party of men, had a desperate fight in this neighborhood with hostile Indians. They, also, had learned from friendly Indians of the wonders of the Sacramento Valley, and were en route to explore it when attacked. Four only out of their entire com- pany escaped with their lives. These succeeded in making their way to the nearest Mexican settlements, which they reached in a- state of complete destitution, after many hardships. Young and his party followed the dry bed of this river for several days before they came to any visible water. It may be interesting to some of our readers to know that there are ' many of these curious rivers in western America, which, for miles disappear from the surface of the earth, and, probably, run through the quicksand beneath, as they re-appear again. The outline of the river usually exists between the place of its disappearance and the place where the water again comes to the surface of the earth. By digging'a few feet into the sand within the outline the water is generally obtained. It takes but a short time, however, for the hole thus made to fill up again. On quitting this river, the party journeyed to the westward, and in four days, came to the Mission of San Gabriel. Here they found one Eoman Catholic priest, fifteen Mexican soldiers, and about one thousand Indians. Belonging to this little colony were eighty 42 ROMAN CATHOLIC MISSIONS. thousand head of cattle, fine fields and vineyards. Lit* erally the work and life of the Jewish patriarchs were here being reenacted. " A shepherd on the mighty plain he watched his roving store." To the half-starved followers of Mr. Young, this Mis- sion appeared to be a " Paradise of Earth." They re- mained here, however, but one day. Having nothing else to trade, they parted with their butcher-knives, receiving for four of them one fat ox. It would all ap- pear a fabulous tale, were we to incorporate into this narrative a history, or even a slight description of the immensity of the herds of horses and cattle which once roamed over the plains and valleys of California and New Mexico. It is but a few years since that some wealthy Mexicans owned herds in these parts of Amer- ica which they numbered by tens of thousands. They were, however, almost valueless for want of a market ; and, until the tide of emigration poured in, developing the resources of the country by its demand for pro- visions and labor, horses and cattle were sold for a mere trifle. In one day's march from San Gabriel, Young and his party arrived at another Roman Catho- lic Mission, called San Fernando. This establishment was on a much smaller scale than the first. Young and his hardy followers, however, stopping only for a few hours, pushed on for the Sacramento River, which proved to be distant only a few days' march. Their course from San Fernando was north-east. The last part of their journey led through a delightful tract of country, where water, grass and game existed in abund- ance, seemingly a foretaste of the success which awaited KIT DISTINGUISHES HIMSELF. 43 their further advance. Selecting an eligible camping site, Young here rested his party for some time. When they were fully recruited, the party started for the San Joaquin, and commenced trapping down the river. What gave the men great surprise, they discovered unmistakable signs of another trapping party. In a short time it appeared that they were close to a party belonging to the Hudson's Bay Company, com- manded by Peter Ogden. Young's men however, con- tinued setting their traps on the San Joaquin and its tributaries. The two parties were near each other for some time, and as deer, elk, and antelope existed by thousands around them, which it was no trouble to kill in any numbers desirable, they fared well. On again reaching the Sacramento River, the two parties sepa- rated. Mr. Ogden, with his party, set out for the Columbia River, while Mr. Young's party encamped where they were for the remainder of the summer. As the season for trapping had passed they employed their time in hunting and preparing meat for future necessity. It was here that Kit Carson soon distinguished him- self as a superior hunter, which reputation he main- tained ever after, no matter who were his antagonists. Not but that Kit may have had his equals ; but that it was next to an impossibility to find his superior. At all events, the world gave Kit Carson the title of "Nes- tor of the Rocky Mountains," for his reputation as a hunter alone ; and as his biographer, we take pleasure in recording the facts by which the title was earned and maintained. Let the reader possess himself of the facts, as they shall appear divested of any and every picture which fancy or partiality may accidentally 44 FIGHT WITH THE INDIANS. cause us to paint, and even then Kit Carson will not lose the title. On the contrary, it will become the more indelibly stamped upon his memory. During the sojourn of the trappers on the Sacra- mento, an event occurred which exhibited the readi- ness with which these men responded to calls upon them for aid in a just cause. A few of the Indians belonging to the Mission of the San Rafael, after com- mitting some excesses, deserted from those to Avhom they had pretended friendship. The priest having charge of the Mission sent a strong force to search for the fugitives. They were found secreted. in an Indian village, the inhabitants of which were not on friendly terms with the priest's party. A demand was made that the deserters should be given up, which being re- fused, a fight ensued, and the priest's party was de- feated. Assistance was now asked from the trappers. The request was complied with by Carson and eleven of his companions, who volunteered for the occasion. Thus reinforced, the vanquished party returned and resumed the fight, but with a far different result. The Indian village was captured, and one-third of its in- habitants killed. The day following a second demand to deliver up the deserters was complied with. Carson and his companions then left the priest's party and re- joined their camp. A short time after this affair had happened, Mr. Young carried the furs he had on hand to the Mission of San Rafael, where he was so fortu- nate as to find a captain of a trading schooner to whom he succeeded in disposing of the entire stock. With the money accruing from the sale, he purchased horses and then rejoined his company. A circumstance occurred a few days after Mr. Young's AFTER THE HORSE THIEVES. 45 return ; which proved to be a good warning to the party for their future vigilance. During one dark night, some Indians, eluding the watch of the sentinels, suc- ceeded in entering the camp and moving off sixty horses. As soon as the robbery was discovered, which had been the more easily accomplished because the trappers, not apprehending danger, had allowed the animals to take care of themselves, Mr. Young directed Kit Carson to take twelve men with the remaining horses, fourteen in number, and pursue the thieves. Carson, in obedience to his orders, immediately started for the Sierra Nevada Mountains, following the trail of the Indians. After traveling one hundred miles he came up with the robbers, and discovered them in the act of feasting upon horse-flesh, six of their own ani- mals having been killed to supply the viands. Doubt- less stolen fruit made the feast all the sweeter to the savages, but Kit determined to mingle a little of the bitter as a condiment to the roasted flesh. Gathering his men well together, and approaching very close to the foe without being discovered, he gave the order to charge. His men needed no second command. They fell upon the feasting savages like a thunderbolt, scat- tering them right and left without mercy. Eight of the warriors were killed in the short conflict which en- sued. The remainder were allowed to escape. With some difficulty they next succeeded in recovering all their horses, except the six which had been killed. With their horses, and three children taken prisoners, they returned to camp. -It is unnecessary to add that, to men thus isolated in the wilderness, Kit and his party were hailed with joyful greetings when their complete success became known. To them their horses 46 GROWING POPULARITY. were like the good ship to the hardy sailors on the mighty ocean. The joyful reaction which followed such compfete success was in ratio to the fears which the continuing suspense had excited. Kit Carson, though at that day a youth in years and experience when compared with the other members of the party of which he was then an associate, had risen rapidly in the estimation of all, and had excited the admiration and enlisted in his behalf the confidence of the entire band. When called upon to add his counsel and advice to the general fund of knowledge offered by the trappers concerning any doubtful or difficult enter- prise, his masterly foresight and shrewdness, as well as clearness in attending to details, alone gave him willing auditors. But it was the retired manner and modest deportment, which he invariably wore, that won for him the love of his associates. Such characteristics failed not to surprise, in no ordinary degree, those who could boast a long life-time of experience in Indian countries. Kit Carson's powers of quickly conceiving thoughts, on difficult emergencies, which pointed out the safest and best plans of action, "just the things that ought to be done," and his bravery, which, in his youth, sometimes amounted to rashness, were the component parts of his ability which thus caused his companions to follow his leadership. His courage, promptitude, willingness, self- reliance, caution, sympathy, and care for the wounded, marked him at once as the master-mind and safest coun- sellor. His first trapping expedition gained him so much credit that, from the time it was concluded, he found no difficulty in joining any band of trappers, no matter how select the party. In this respect the mountaineers resemble sea-faring men, who invariably A YOUTHFUL HERO. 47 dislike new and untried hands, because such are so apt to give more trouble than assistance. Green hands, therefore, are treated with indifference when they apply to be admitted as members on a contemplated hunt. The reader will here see one difficulty which had to be overcome by Carson, and which kept him so long in want of employment. From this time Kit carried a rifle and worked from an experience which commanded admiration, respect, and esteem wherever he went, and with whatever party he became connected. Like the great Napoleon, when he joined the army for his first campaign, he was a hero in spite of his youth among men grown gray with experience. 48 EN ROUTE FOR NEW MEXICO. OHAPTEE III. The Return from California to New Mexico San Fernando and the Peublo of Los Angelos Description of these Peublos Passports demanded at Los Angelos Trouble with the Mexican Authorities Kit Carson sent on with the Pack Animals One Trapper shoots another The Mexicans become frightened Indians come into Camp with their Weapons concealed Cool Reception by Kit Carson Paying off old Scores Recovering Stolen Property Arrival at Santa Fe and Taos Money realized soon parted with Carson joins another Expedition The Rivers trapped on Four Men Killed by Blackfeet Indians Kit Carson joins Gaunt's Party The Parks Winter Quarters Crow Indian Depredations Kit Carson and his Party in Pursuit The Fight Winter on the Arkansas Another Expedition Two Desert- ers Kit Carson sent in Pursuit The Fate of the Runaways Adven- tures with Indians Hair-breadth Escape made by Kit Carson. IN September, Mr. Young, having accomplished all that he had intended, informed his men that he was going to New Mexico. The homeward route was through most of the country over which they had pre- viously traveled. The preparations for the journey having been completed, the party started, touching on the way at the Mission of San Fernando, and thence through to the Peublo of Los Angelos. Scattered over various parts of the dominion of Old Mexico are these Peublos, or Indian villages, called so because they aro inhabited by Indians who bear that name. These are the true descendants of the ancient Aztecs, who were once the subjects of the Montezumas. They are usually a quiet and industrious race, and are most devout in their religious worship, according to the principles, FIGHTING AGAINST FIRE-WATEK. 49 forms, and ceremonies of the Roman Catholic Church. They have not failed to inherit the superstition of their forefathers. Notwithstanding the changes which time, with its cohorts of emigration, books, religious teach- ings, association with other races, mechanics, science and art, in greater or less degree, has introduced into their country, and accomplished under their eyes, they still believe that some day their great chief will return to them ; accordingly, in each and every one of their towns, they keep a watch-fire burning, in order, on his advent, to let him know where his children live. At Los Angelos, the Mexican authorities came' to the trappers and demanded their passports. On finding that such articles of paper authority did not form any part of a trapper's outfit, they determined to arrest them. Fear, however, prevented their determination from assuming any very formidable action. Former experience in a similar matter of official duty had taught those Mexicans that the American trappers were men of a peculiarly resolute nature. Fair and legitimate means were, therefore, laid aside, and a foul policy adopted. They commenced supplying them with " fire- water," thus attacking them in a weak point. When they should become fully inebriated, they considered the matter of their arrest both easy and certain. Mr. Young, seeing the intentions of the authorities, and their underhanded method of carrying them out, determined to thwart them. He directed Carson to take three men, the loose animals, and the camp equi- page, and move on, with the instructions, that if he did not soon join him, to push on; that if he did not event- ually overtake him, to report in New Mexico that the main party had been massacred. Young succeeded in 50 SHOOTING WITHOUT PROVOCATION. collecting his men as best he could, for they were yet sufficiently sober to retain a little of their reason. The treacherous Mexicans, however, continued annoying the commander of the trappers by gratuitously offering the men all the liquor they desired. One by one, the trappers were allowing themselves to be easily con- quered, as the effects of the liquor began to be more active. They would soon have fallen a complete prey to their enemies had not a most singular circumstance put th*e Mexicans to flight. One of the trappers, named James Higgins, without any provocation and without any excuse, except that he was intoxicated, shot a man named James Lawrence, inflicting a slight wound. Such conduct so terrified the Mexicans that they took sudden and precipitous leave. This happened, very fortunately, before the party arrived at the mission of San Gabriel, where they would all have been arrested, and perhaps killed, by the Mexicans, aided by parties and re-inforce- ments at the mission. About dark, Young, by urging his half-drunken men into a forced march, succeeded in overtaking Carson. At the first supply of water, they went into camp. A night of sleep soon set the brains of Young's trappers once more to rights. The next day the party, most of them sufficiently ashamed of their drunken debauch, commenced with vigor the homeward march. They continued nine days almost upon their former track, when outward bound. On the ninth day, they once more stood on the banks of the Colorado River. While encamped on this stream, a band of five hun- dred Indians made their appearance and entered the camp. The rascals professed the greatest friendship for the trappers, but their actions not fully measuring AN UNPLEASANT SITUATION. 51 their words, the white men looked to Carson for advice. He had discovered that beneath their articles of dress their weapons were very carefully concealed ; and from this circumstance it became quite clearly appar- ent the Indians intended to massacre the entire party. Here Carson's boldness proved, as it had before, and did many a time afterwards, the safety of himself and friends or associates. At the time the Indians entered the camp, Carson, with only a few of the party, occu- pied it ; the rest were out visiting their traps, which it was their general custom to set whenever they ar- rived at a suitable stream. Kit having thus become satisfied concerning the design of the savages, and feeling that the salvation of the entire party rested upon his courage and wisdom, made up his mind that boldness was the wisest policy he could adopt. He found present among the warriors one who could speak the Spanish language. Through him he ordered the red men "to leave the camp. In the event of their not doing so immediately, he and his friends would, without further parley, commence hostilities, and would be sure each in killing his man, although they might all in the end lose their own lives." The Indians had been accustomed to act about as they chose with such small parties of Mexicans as they chanced to meet, and consequently were taken com- pletely by surprise at Kit's unusual boldness. Seeing that they would inevitably lose several of their braves if they made any hostile demonstration, they chose the discreet part of best policy, and departed. As a gen- eral rule, no matter what the profit or urgent necessity which chance offers, these Indians will not hazard a contest when, to a certainty, they must expect their 52 PAYING OLD SCORES. own killed will equal the number of scalps which they can obtain. This rule, and doubtless some Tearfulness on the part of the Indians, saved the lives of the en- tire band. As has already appeared, the trappers were on the banks of the Colorado at the time this affair happened. They continued their work on it, descending the south side until they reached tide water, when they changed their camp on to the Gila, and continued trapping up this river as far as the mouth of the San Pedro. Near the outlet of this river, they discovered a large herd of horses and mules ; on a closer examination, they found that they were in the possession of a band of Indians who had formerly given them some of their gratuitous hostilities. Not having forgotten their former troubles with these people, they determined to pay them off in their own coin by depriving them of the herd. A short search sufficed to discover the Indian camp. Without waiting an instant, they put their horses to their speed and charged in among the huts. The Indians were so completely taken by surprise, that they became panic- struck and fled in every direction. They, however, rallied somewhat, and a running fight commenced which lasted some time, but which did not change matters in favor of the Indians. The entire herd fell into the possession of the trappers. On the same evening, after the men had wrapped themselves up in their blankets and laid down for a sleep, and while enjoying their slumbers, a noise reached their ears which sounded very much like dis- tant thunder; but a close application of the sense of hearing showed plainly that an enemy was near at hand. Springing, up with rifle in hand for generally in the RECOVERING STOLEN PROPERTY. 53 mountains a man's gun rests in the same blanket with himself on all sleeping occasions they sallied forth to reconnoitre, and discovered a few warriors driving along a band of at least two hundred horses. The trappers comprehended instantly that the warriors had been to the Mexican settlements in Sonora on a thieving expedition, and that the horses had changed hands with only one party to the bargain. The oppor- tunity to instill a lesson on the savage marauders was too good to be lost. They saluted the thieves with a volley from their rifles, which, with the bullet-whizzing about their heads and bodies, so astonished them, that they seemed almost immediately to forget their stolen property, and to think only of a precipitous flight. In a few moments the whites found themselves mas- ters of the field, and also of the property. To return the animals to their owners was an impossibility ; Mr. Young, therefore, selected as many of the best horses as he needed for himself and men, and game being very scarce, killed two and dried most of the meat for future use, turning the remainder loose. Such either became wild mustangs or fell again into the clutches of the In- dians. The company then renewed their trapping, and continued it up the Gila to a point opposite the copper mines of New Mexico. Here they left the river and proceeded to the copper mines, where they found Mr. Robert McKnight engaged in trading with the neigh- boring Indian tribes. These mines were not then, and ever since have not been, worked. The holes which had many years before been made by the miners but who they were, is unknown formed a safe hiding- place for their skins. The stock of beaver was, there- 54 THE DESERTED MINES. fore, placed under the care of Mr. McKnight. Young and his men then renewed their march, and in due time arrived safely at Santa Fe. Here they purchased licenses to trade with the Indians who lived about the copper mines. With these licenses as protection pa- pers, they returned to where the skins were concealed. Having once more recovered their fur, they returned with it to Santa Fe. The deserted mines of New Mex- ico show incontrovertible signs of having been success- fully and extensively worked, at some remote period, for various kinds of metals. They have proved a knotty historical problem to many an investigating mind ; for their authentic history has fallen, and prob- ably will ever remain in oblivion. It may have been that about a century ago the Spaniards, with Indian assistants, worked them ; and the savages becoming hostile to their employers, in some sudden fit of frenzy may have massacred the Spaniards. There is a legen- dary story circulating, similar to the traditions of the Indians, giving this explanation. The more probable hypothesis, however, is that the Indians themselves, many centuries in the past, were versed to some extent in the art of mining, and carried on the business in these mines; but from indolence, or, to them, useless- ness of the metals, the work was abandoned, and their descendants failed to obtain the knowledge which their ancestors possessed. These mines, and those which ex- ist nearer to the large towns, will some day render New Mexico a profitable and rich field for the learned antiquary. The ruse which Mr. Young found absolutely neces- sary to employ, in order to blind the Mexican author- ities, succeeded so well, that when the fur arrived at HAVING A " GLORIOUS " TIME. 55 Santa Fe, every one considered the trappers had made a very good trade. The amount of beaver thus brought in amounted to two thousand pounds. The market price was twelve dollars per pound. The proceeds, therefore, of the entire trip, were nearly twenty-four thousand dollars. The division of this handsome sum gave to each man several hundred dollars. It was during the month of April, 1830, that Mr. Young's party again reached the town of Taos. Here they dis- banded, having completed their enterprise. Like as Jack, when he returns from his battles with old ocean, having a pocket well lined with hard earnings, fails not to plunge into excess, with the determination to make up for the pleasure lost by years of toil, the brave mountaineers courted merry-making. From their own accounts, they passed a short time gloriously. This similarity of disposition between trappers and sailors, in regard to pleasure's syren cup and its consequent draft upon their treasures, causing them to forget the risk of life and limb and the expense of their valuable time, is most remarkable. These hardy trappers, like reliable old salts, proved to be as true to the bowl as they had been to their steel ; for, most of the party, in a very brief space of time, were penniless and ready to be fitted out for another expedition. Young Kit, at this period of his life, imitated the example set by his elders, for he wished to be considered by them as an equal and a friend. He, however, passed through this terrible ordeal, which most frequently ruins its votary, and eventually came out brighter, clearer and more no- ble for the conscience-polish which he received. He contracted no bad habits, but learned the usefulness and happiness of resisting temptation, and became so well 56 MURDERED BY BLACKFEET. schooled that he was able, by the caution and advice cf wisdom founded on experience, to prevent many a promising and skillful hand from grasping ruin in the same vortex. The scenes of pleasure lasted until the fall of 1830. Kit then joined his second trapping expedition. This band had been formed ior the purpose of trapping the principal streams of the Rocky Mountains. Mr. Fitz- patrick, a trapper well known and respected by the mountaineers, had charge of the party. He was, at that time, well acquainted by experience with the Rocky Mountains, and has, since then, gained an envi- able fame as an Indian agent. The new party traveled north and commenced operations on the Platte River, which they followed down stream to one of its tribu- taries, the Sweet Water River. From here they worked on until they reached the Green River. Hence they journeyed to Jackson's Hole, which is a fork of the Great Columbia River. After making a short stay at this point they started for the Salmon River. Here they were joined by a band of their own party, who had left Taos some days in advance of the main body, and for whom they were then hunting. The whole party, as now organized, remained where they were- throughout the winter of 1830 and 1831, employed in killing -only the amount of game necessary for their sustenance. An unfortunate affair here happened to them. Four of their men, while hunting buffalo, were attacked and killed by a party of Blackfeet Indians. No other incident occurred during the winter to change the everyday routine. In April, 1831, they recommenced trapping, shaping their course for Snake River. Nothing can equal the MAGNIFICENT SCENERY. 59 magnificence and grandeur of the country through which they were now traveling. Shoshonee Falls, situated on Shoshonee or Snake River, are in many respects vastly more beautiful and attractive than Niagara. The torrent is less, and its crescent-summit appears less than a thousand feet wide ; but the de- scent is more than one -third greater, being over two hundred feet; while above the brink, grand and im- posing monuments of lava rise hundreds of feet on each bank, supplying an element of grandeur which the monarch of cataracts does not possess. The fall itself is of the purest white, interspersed with myriads of sparkling, glassy drops a cataract of snow with an avalanche of jewels. " Mocking and belittering all hu- man splendor, Nature is here in her lace and pearls, her robe of diamonds and tiara of rainbow." Carson often spoke CH' these falls as being the grandest of any he had ever seen. From Snake River, they worked down to Bear River, which is the principal stream that empties into GREAT SALT LAKE. Thence they returned to Green ^River, where they found some trappers under the com- mand of Mr. Sinclair, who left New Mexico soon after Mr. Fitzpatrick's party, and had wintered on the Bear Rivev. Among many other facts, they learned from tills party that Captain Gaunt, who was an old moun- taineer, wi-11 known to most of the whites present, had pasdifu the winter on the Laramie River, and that he was then with his men in the South Park. Kit Carson ) and four of his companions determined to join him. For this purpose they started, and, after ten days of steady travel, found his party. There are many of these Parks in the Rocky Moun- 60 BEAUTIFUL PARKS. tains, and they are a distinctive and remarkable feature of this mountain centre of Colorado. As their names imply, they are fair, natural examples of the manufac- tured parks- of civilization. In some things, Nature has lavished upon them charms and beauties which no human skill can imitate. Most of these Parks are, of course, petite little wide valleys around the heads of single streams, or the conjunctions of several, or the homes of lonely lakes ; but there are four great ones, that mark the phenomenon and give the name. These are North Park, Middle Park, South Park, and San Luis Park, varying in size from twenty by fifty miles, to one hundred by two hundred, or, say, from Rhode Island to Massachusetts. These Parks are favorite haunts of the deer, antelope, and elk, while the streams which run through them a re well stocked with otter and beaver. Kit and his companions were graciously received by Gaunt ; and with him they trapped the streams in the vicinity of the North Park and the plains of Laramie to the south fork of the Platte. Having finished here, they left for the Arkansas, remaining there while their cap- tain went to Taos to dispose of their stock of furs and to make such purchases of necessaries as the men re- quired. Gaunt returned after an absence of t\vo mouths, when trapping operations were resumed on the Arkai River, which they trapped until it froze over. The party then went into winter quarters. The businessof trapping for beaver is no child's play. A person unaccustomed to it may possibly look upon it as no very difficult task. A single trial is usually suffi- cient to satisfy the uninitiated on this point ; for, the beaver, above all other wild animals of America, is en- INDIANS VS. BEAYER. 61 dowed with an extraordinary amount of instinct. His handiwork and habits sufficiently attest this. There are bands of Indians living in the north-west- ern part of America who really believe that the beaver has almost as much intelligence as an Indian, holding and maintaining that all the difference that exists be- tween a beaver and an Indian is, that the latter has been endowed by the Great Spirit with power and capabilities to catch the former. Some of the stories which old mountaineers occasionally inflict upon an in- quisitive traveler are somewhat startling ; nevertheless, what this amphibious animal really performs is truly astounding, and oftentimes the truth fails to gain cre- dence. During the winter the trappers had many very pleasant times, for they had little work beyond the task of making themselves comfortable. The snow fell to a great depth, which proved rather hard for their animals. By dint of cutting down cotton-wood trees and gathering the bark and branches for fodder, they managed to prevent them from dying of starva- tion. The buffalo existed about there in great abun- dance ; and, early in the winter, they had taken the precaution to kill and prepare a large supply of this kind of game, while it was in good condition. As the season advanced, therefore, the trappers found them- selves living quite sumptuously. In the month of January, the daily routine of their lives was rather unpleasantly disturbed. A party of fifty Crow Indians made an unfriendly visit to their camp on one very dark night. They succeeded in stealing nine of their loose animals, with which they escaped unperceived. Early the next morning, the 62 CROW INDIAN DEPREDATIONS. signs of the Indians were discovered. Kit Carson, with twelve of his companions, immediately saddled their horses and started in pursuit. It was very diffi- cult to follow the trail of the Indians, from the fact that many herds of buffalo had crossed and repeatedly recrossed it during the night, making the tracks very indistinct. Having traveled forty miles, their horses, which were very poor in flesh, became fatigued, caus- ing them to think of making a halt. After due con- sultation, it was agreed that they had best go into camp. With this object in view, they traveled towards some timber which was near by. On arriving at the woods, the advance of the party, to their surprise and not less to their 'satisfaction, discovered the smoke of their enemies' fires. The distance between the parties was inconsiderable ; but, in order that their move- ments might be made unobserved, the trappers re- treated to a secluded spot where they awaited the night, judging it best to take the party by surprise. Their first care was to secure and provide for their animals. The second was to prepare their arms. As soon as it would do for them to move, they started, eager for the strife. It was judged best first to make a half circuit and then approach the Indians from the direction they themselves were traveling, as from this source, they wisely judged the red men would be less apprehensive of an attack. Their movements were made slowly and with great care, in order not to alarm the savages. Having obtained a position close enough to observe the strength of their enemies, they stopped to reconnoitre. The men then crept for a long distance on their hands and knees, until finally they obtained a full view of the Indians, which showed AFTER THE THIEVES. 63 them that the savages had erected two rough forts and that they were now divided into two parties. A dance was in progress in honor of the robbery so recently perpetrated, which proved, conclusively, that they were without even a suspicion of danger. Just out- side one of the forts, the nine stolen animals were se- curely tied. This sight did not tend to allay the wrath of the trappers. They resolved that, come what might, the attempt to regain their property and punish the In- dians should be made notwithstanding their strength. To insure success in spite of their weakness, they de- termined to conceal themselves and wait quietly until the Indians had lain down for sleep. During this time of suspense the trappers were subjected to great suf- fering, for the weather was intensely cold, and they possessed but a scanty allowance of clothing fit for such work. But as there is an end to all things, there was an end to the dance and other festivities, and the savages sought their rest. At last the time for action arrived. Kit Carson and five of his companions com- menced crawling towards the stolen horses, which, on reaching, were easily set free by cutting their halters. They then threw snow-balls at them, and by this means drove them away without disturbing the sleep- ing Indians. The trappers who acted as a reserve party soon after joined Kit and his companions ; ancl, after retreating some distance in order to be out of the hearing of the enemy, they held a council to obtain the views of each member of the -party as to their next step. It appeared that a difference of opinion existed ; some of the men were in favor of returning, having recovered their property and sustained no dam- age. The remainder, those who had lost no animals, 64 THE MINORITY RULES. wanted satisfaction for the trouble and hardship they had undergone while in pursuit of the thieves. Kit Carson and two others composed this latter party, and thus were determined to punish the thieves, let the consequences of the attempt be ever so fatal. The more peaceful party, seeing this earnestness, could not do otherwise than lend their aid in the fight, and cheerfully did so. There always existed such a feeling of brotherly love among the old trappers of the Kocky Mountains, that the hour of peril was never the hour for separation or desertion. This instance affords a fair example how the minority could easily rule the majority when the minority held to the side of danger. The whole band were now unanimous in favor of the attack. Kit Carson, who had from the first acted as captain, ordered three men to take the recovered animals back to where they had secured their saddle-horses. Then, with his comrades, he marched directly for the Indian camp A dog belonging to the enemy first gave the alarm of approaching danger to the Indians, but not until Kit and his party were within a few paces of the first fort. As soon as the occupants of the fort heard the noise they sprang to their feet, and thus became fair marks for the unerring rifles of the trappers. The whites did not throw away a single shot ; every ball struck a warrior in some vital spot. Those who sur- vived retreated to the fort occupied by their friends, and, as soon as possible, commenced returning the fire ; but without execution, as the trappers, on discharging their first volley, had well concealed themselves behind trees, from whence they were shooting only when sure of an object. It was now nearly daybreak, and, as the A DESPERATE FIGHT. 65 savages discovered the weakness of the attacking party, they resolved to charge, feeling sure of success. They did so ; but the white men, who were expert fighters in this kind of warfare, quietly waited until the Indians were fully exposed. They then fired and killed five warriors. The remainder immediately retreated into the fort. After considerable deliberation, the Indians decided once more to make a sortie. On they came, and this time with such determination that the trappers could not withstand the assault, but were compelled to retreat. They disputed, however, every inch of ground over which they trod, as they fell back from one tree to another, continually making their bullets tell with ter- rible effect on their foes. The three men who had been sent back with the horses had joined their comrades soon after they had commenced retreating. They had heard the incessant firing and had become convinced that the fight was hotly contested and that their ser- vices were required. On their joining, the whole party resolved to make one more stand, and as soon as the Indians saw this, they wavered and finally drew off. Both sides had now, seemingly, had enough of fight- ing, and hostilities soon after entirely ceased, the savages marching back and leaving the whites masters of the field. Several of the trappers were slightly, but none dangerously, wounded. The Indians had paid dearly, in numbers killed, for their rascality. Finding the coast clear, Carson and his men set out and soon rejoined their comrades on the Arkansas River. In the Spring, after having cached their fur, the whole band departed for Laramie River on another expedition. While on the south fork of the Platte, two of the 66 THIEVING DESERTERS. party deserted, taking with them three of their best animals. Suspecting their design, Gaunt sent Kit Car- son and another man in pursuit of the fugitives, who had one day the start. As was suspected, the two de- serters had gone to the camp where the beaver fur was concealed and buried. They had succeeded in digging it up and stealing about three hundred pounds of this valuable property, belonging to the company in general, share and share alike. Carson and his companion failed entirely in their efforts to find the two men. Doubt- less they never lived to enjoy their ill-gotten wealth ; for, notwithstanding careful search was made, the men were never heard from afterwards. It is probable that they were killed by Indians, a fate which they, at least, richly merited. This old camp, the reader will please bear in mind, was on the Arkansas River. Kit Carson and his com- rade, after finding that the two deserters had thus suc- ceeded in stealing the fur which had been buried by the company, made every further effort which lay in their power to recover it. As has also been seen, they were unsuccessful. It now remained for them to deter- mine their future course. The country was so infested with hostile Indians that it made their position, thus alone, very precarious. To regain their commander's company was almost impracticable ; at least, without a more important object to make the risk necessary, it was a foolhardy attempt. Time in learning the loss was of no great importance either to their leader or their party. Sooner or later this, as a matter of course, would be fully shown. Kit and his comrade, there- fore, determined to remain where they were, in the old camp ; and, to this end, immediately arranged every- A PERILOUS POSITION. 67 thing so that they could make a successful defence in case they should be attacked by the savages. They did not dare to venture out far from their fortifications ; but this was no great trial to them, as game existed in great plenty and came very near their rude fort While one slept, the other stood on guard. It was their intention to await the return of their party ; but, at the expiration of one month, they were quite happily re- lieved from their perilous position. Mr. Blackwell, Mr. G aunt's partner, arrived from the United States. He was accompanied by fifteen men, and brought with him a complete outfit for the entire band. Kit and his comrade had been expecting and were anxiously look- ing for this party. They were also made quite happy in obtaining the articles of outfit which would render their wild life more agreeable and easy. Shortly after this arrival, four men from the trapping party came into camp and brought the news as to the whereabouts of Gaunt and his men. They were overjoyed at find- ing Kit and his comrade, as they said that they had hunted for them in all directions, and, finally, had given up all hopes of ever seeing them again. The whole party now began the march to join Gaunt at the Ballo Salado.* These springs form the head waters of the south fork of the River Platte. When four days' journey had been accomplished, and while they were partaking of their breakfast in the camp, an alarm of Indians was given by one of the men. He had accidentally discov- ered the red-skin rascals as they were prowling about the camp. A rush was immediately made by the trap- pers, with rifles in hand, to save their horses. Shots * Salt Springs. 68 TOO POLITE TO STAY. were fired and one Indian fell. The rest of the band made off as empty-handed as they came, with one ex- ception. One brave had succeeded in capturing and mounting a horse before the white men could reach him. Notwithstanding he had a dead brother lying on the ground, he appeared to be altogether too polite to make the trappers a longer visit ; at least, without a proper introduction. On the contrary, he galloped off, seemingly quite proud of his trophy. Had it not been that the trappers had taken the precaution to hobble their horses before turning them out to graze, they would have lost them all in this at- tempted stampede. These stampedes are a source of great profit to the Indians of the Plains. It is by this means they de- prive the caravans of their animals. The Camanches are particularly expert and daring in this kind of rob- bery. They even train horses to run from one given point to another in expectancy of caravans. When a camp is made which is nearly in range, they turn their trained animals loose, who at once fly across the plain, penetrating and passing through the c.amp of their vic- tims. All of the picketed animals will endeavor to fol- low, and usually succeed in following the trained horses. Such are invariably led into the haunts of the thieves, who easily secure them. Young horses and mules are easily frightened ; and, in the havoc which generally ensues, oftentimes great injury is done to the runaways themselves. The sight of a stampede on a grand scsik' requires steady nerves to witness without tremor; and, woe to the footman who cannot get out of the way when the frightened animals come along. At times, when the herd is very large, the horses scatter over TERRORS OF A STAMPEDE. 69 the open country and are irrecoverably lost ; and, such as do not become wild, fall a prey to the ravenous wolves. Such, most frequently, is the fate of stam- peded horses which have been bred in the States, not being trained by a prairie-life experience to take care of themselves. Instead of bravely stopping and fight- ing off the wolves, they run. The whole pack are sure to leave the bolder animals and make for the runaways, which they seldom fail to overtake and dispatch. Some years since, one of these stampedes occurred on the plains of a band of horses, in which there were several hundred valuable animals. It w r as attended with very heavy loss to the owners. Through the courage and great exertions of those who had the animals in charge, many were recovered, but none without having sus- tained more or less injury. A favorite policy of the Indian horse thieves is to creep into camp, cut loose one animal and thoroughly frighten him. This animal seldom fails to frighten the remainder, w r hen away they all go, w r ith long ropes and picket pins dangling after them. The latter some- times act like harpoons, being thrown with such impe- tus as to strike and instantly kill a valuable steed from among the brother runaways. At other times, the limbs of the running horses get entangled in the ropes, when they are suddenly thrown. Such seldom escape without broken legs or severe contusions, which are often incurable. The necessity of traveling on, at any rate, renders it an impossibility to undertake the cure, when it might be practicable under other cir- cumstances. The day of the attempted stampede, the party trav- eled fifty miles, and thought themselves well clear of 70 RECONCILED TO RATTLESNAKES. their treacherous enemy, as there were no visible signs of their presence. The experience of the day, how- ever, had admonished them to be on their guard against surprise. To make things sure as to their animals, they fastened them to stakes driven in the earth, suf- ficient rope being given them for grazing. The place selected for their camp was a beautiful spot, being on a small stream which empties into the Arkansas, the Water of which is sparkling and clear. There are many of these charming little brooks which, emptying into, form this river. To the general traveler, how- ever, they present one great drawback as eligible camping sites. Their banks are usually pretty thickly lined with rattlesnakes. The mountaineer is quite well accustomed and reconciled to this venomous reptile, as they abound in nearly every section of his hunting and trapping grounds. Not so, however, with the mere vis- itor of, or casual traveler over, the Western Territories. To them his rattlesnakeship is a formidable personage. The rattlesnake rarely moves after sunset. The night air is generally too chilling for him. In the day- time they are a noble enemy, always warning their antagonists of their hostile intentions by springing their rattles, thus giving a person warning of his danger. By these two wise provisions of the Creator, the power of this otherwise terrible reptile is so lim- ited or restrained, that the trapper rarely gives him a thought unless he comes in direct contact. Although they are so numerous, it very seldom happens that either the Indian or the trapper is bitten by them. The party had not been long at rest before their sus- picions were aroused that hostile Indians were near them. A faithful dog belonging to the camp kept up ATTACKED BY INDIANS. 71 a furious barking, much more lustily than when wolves annoyed him. An extra guard was therefore imme- diately posted, when the remainder of the party lay down ; but, not for sleep. They expected at every moment that their services would be needed to defend the camp. Everything, however, passed as usual dur- ing the night; and, with the morning, all suspicion was laid aside. Kit Carson, with three companions, proposed a visit to a fork of a river close by, to look for signs of beaver. They had been informed that these animals were numerous in this particular stream. Carson and the three men had been absent about one hour when the signs of Indians proved to be realities, in the shape of a bold and well-sustained charge upon their camp. The rascals succeeded in running off all of their loose animals. Four of the men immediately saddled the fleetest of the remaining horses, and instantly gave chase. After a quick run they came upon the savages, and immedi- ately gave them battle. A sharp skirmish ensued, in which one of the warriors was killed, when the remain- der fled, leaving the property once more in the hands of its rightful owners. The men, however, did not come off entirely safe. One of them received a very severe wound, which eventually gave him considerable difficulty, but from the effects of which he finally re- covered. Kit and his companions, in the meantime, in order to reach their destination, found it necessary, unless they should take a long and circuitous route, to cross one of those lofty peaks for which the Rocky Mountains are so famous. The ascent was, however, commenced and successfully accomplished ; but, not without labor 72 UNSUCCESSFUL TRAPPING. and an occasional resting-place being sought for breath- ing their animals. In due time, they reached the desired stream ; but the beaver signs did not appear. Finding their errand had proved entirely useless, they started to return into camp. Experience had taught them that the longest way round was, in this case, the quickest way home. Taking, therefore, a circuitous route, they avoided recrossing the lofty mountain peak already alluded to. As they were riding care- lessly homeward, beguiling the time with anecdote and remark upon their future prospects, or the scenery around them, with an occasional sight at some kind of game, what should appear ahead of them but four In- dian warriors, remarkably well mounted, painted and decked with feathers, showing, conclusively, that they were out upon the war-path. As soon as Kit and his companions saw the warriors, and without one word as to their proper and best action being interchanged, they simultaneously put spurs to their horses and dashed at the Indians in order quickly to bring them within range of their rifles. The pace became a hot one; but, as suddenly as the charge had been com- menced, so suddenly the trappers found that they had, this time, "caught a Tartar;" for, as they dashed on, sixty warriors, fully armed and splendidly mounted, came into view from beneath a hill where they were awaiting in ambush. There was but one course for the trappers to take, and that was to run the gauntlet, which they did in gal- lant style, although twenty yards would have frequently measured the distance between them and the hostile savages. The bullets from the rifles of the Indians flew about their ears thick and fast, for a heavy fire was KUNNING THE GAUNTLET. 73 opened upon them, as they passed, and incessantly, kept up until they were out of their reach. The trappers did not return a shot. It would not have been accord- ing to their custom. There is no one thing Simon- pure trappers consider to be a greater folly than firing their rifles on such an occasion as is here described. There is nothing they so much dread as being left on foot with an empty gun and no time to load, when per- haps a single shot, might change defeat into victory,, sure captivity into freedom, or a dead companion into a laughing, jolly and lovable helpmate, ready for setting a trap or to engage in the next bloody skirmish. This must inevitably happen if, after the rider has fired, among the score or so of passing bullets, one of them, perchance, took a peculiar fancy for a vital organ of his horse. The mortally wounded animal would make no account of dismounting his master and leaving him to the tender mercies of the refined savages. In every close and unequal contest, such as above detailed, they only think of the surest and speediest method of escape, leaving revenge to be obtained on some more fitting and favorable occasion. For some unaccountable rea- son the savages did not give chase. As soon as Carson and his comrades had got out of the reach of the Indians, they began to recall the sus- picions concerning signs of Indians which their faithful dog had aroused. Fears for the safety of their com- panions arose accordingly. Therefore, giving spurs to their horses, they pushed on with vigor to know the worst. The facts that awaited them at camp concern- ing the attack by the Indians, stealing and rescue of the horses, gave them, therefore, but little surprise. They had already surmised the reason why the Indians had 74 AWAITING AN OPPORTUNITY. thus set a trap for them. Having been watching the camp during the night, and finding the white men fully on the alert and carefully guarding against any sur- prise, they had quietly waited until suspicion of their proximity had been entirely laid aside. The departure of Carson and his companions from camp was doubtless seen by the savages, and afforded them a clear proof that the white men had forgotten their fears. As Kit's departure with the men weakened the camp party, the Indians had gathered together sufficient courage to make a bold charge for the coveted plunder. The final result, however, which led to their losing the stolen property, and the life of one of their braves, had caused them to think of an attack upon Kit's party, thus ob- taining by its massacre, revenge for their dead com- panion ; and the horses which Kit and his comrades rode would have been a consolation for their failure to retain the horses obtained at the camp. The attack was skillfully planned, and would undoubtedly have succeeded but for the unexpected daring and prompti- tude displayed by Kit and his comrades. The Indians had not looked for the bold charge upon their advance party, but, on the contrary, they had been prepared for a chase and fight in the opposite direction. Had such a sk i rmish taken place, nothing beyond an absolute miracle, or change of the laws of nature, could have saved the little band. Kit and his friends had reason, therefore, to be very thankful for their safety. They all felt that they had retained their scalps by a very close shave. To use the expressive language of Carson, employed in narrating the event: "The red-skins made a good at- tempt, but, thank God, failed." Two of the trappers had received, in this affray, A LITTER FOR THE WOUNDED. iO wounds which proved to be of a serious nature, much more so than they or their companions thought on the first examination given them. In consequence, the whole party was obliged to halt and again go into camp, having accomplished but a very short remove from their savage foes. It became necessary to main- tain a strong and careful guard during the succeeding night, notwithstanding the labors of the past day and night had been more than usually arduous. However, they succeeded in passing the night without further molestation. The next morning it was found necessary to make a litter for one of the wounded men, whose condition had grown to be much worse. The method which the mountaineers adopt for making a litter, they have taken from the Indians, and is as follows : Take two strong poles, six feet of which, at either extremity, is allowed for shafts, or handles, while the patient lies in the intermediate space on a buffalo robe, or strong sacking, whichever is most convenient. Two mules or horses of the same size are then selected ; and, to saddles upon each of the animals, the poles, at their extremities, are fastened. Another and simpler plan, but one not so comfortable to the patient, is to take the two poles as before and attach them strongly to a saddle on but one animal, while the two ends are allowed to drag upon the ground. Directly in the rear of the horse the patient's bed is affixed. If the poles are long they will act as springs, especially when the wood used is of a kind which has considerable elas- ticity. Having arranged everything to the satisfaction and comfort of the wounded men, the party commenced their march, and in four days reached Gaunt's camp, 76 UNFAVORABLE BUSINESS PROSPECTS. where they rested until the wounded men had nearly recovered. This simple fact shows the careful and sympathizing care which the mountaineers of the West ever exhibit towards each other in distress. It speaks more than would volumes of mere praise, concerning their character for true manhood. When the wounded men had so far recovered that they could safely proceed, the whole party, now quite strong in its numerical power, as well as skill and mountaineer experience, departed for, and, in due time, arrived at the Middle Park. The coveted beaver, however, were scarce there, for other trappers had pre- ceded them, and, to employ trapping phrase, "had caught all the fur in those streams that could be taken that season." This was an unpleasant condition for their business prospects; but, as the old adage hath it, " what could not be cured was quietly endured." Catch- ing beaver is not always a matter of choice. The bea- ver themselves have considerable to say on the subject. KIT IIUNTS ON HIS OWN ACCOUNT. 77 CHAPTER IV. Kit Carson and two Companions plan a Hunt for themselves The Great Success met with Return to Taos Sale of the Beaver Fur Kit Carson joins Captain Lee and goes on a Trading Expedition Winter Quarters Kit Carson is sent in Pursuit of a Thief Overtakes and is obliged to Shoot the Runaway Property Recovered The Return to the Camp The Sale of Goods Kit Carson joins Fitzpatrick and Party Kit Carson organizes a Hunting Party His Encounter with two Grizzly Bears The Summer Rendezvous Kit Carson joins fifty Trappers and goes to the Country of the Blackfeet Indians Annoy- ances received from these Indians Winter Quarters in 1832 Horses Stolen Kit Carson and eleven Men in Pursuit A Parley A Fight Kit Carson severely Wounded His great Sufferings and Fortitude His Convalescence The Retreat A New Expedition A Braggado- cio Kit Carson Fights a Duel and Wounds his Man Duels in the Rocky Mountains in Olden Times. THE fortunes of Gaunt's party in not finding game continued to grow darker and darker as they traveled from stream to stream. The men began to grow dis- heartened at this succession of, failures. Kit Carson, finally, became so tired of going empty-handed, that he resolved to try a hunt upon his own account. On stating his intentions to the party, two of his old com- panions offered to join him. These were gladly accepted by Kit ; and, had they not been deterred by the con- sideration that their dangers would be greatly aug- mented if they worked with so small a party, others would most willingly have joined his company. With the good wishes, therefore, of Gaunt and his entire band, 78 SPLENDID SUCCESSo Kit and his two brave comrades boldly and confidently commenced their march. The plan Kit adopted was to confine his operations exclusively to the mountain streams, and not to venture out upon the prairie. By taking this course he hoped to avoid much of the danger to be apprehended from Indians. For several months they followed the business of trapping without being in any way annoyed by the red-skins. Their success was abundant. At the end of the season they had gathered together a splendid stock of beaver fur, and began to think of a homeward trip. Having made everything ready, they finally started for Taos. True, their party was small, and the risks they ran of attacks from hostile and covetous Indians were imminent ; but fortune or Providence favored them, and there was finally a satisfactory end to their anxieties, for, after a quick march over the plains, they arrived safely at Taos. Beaver fur was, at the time of their arrival, in great demand, and prices ruled correspond- ingly high. Kit and his comrades obtained the benefit of this state of the market, and disposed of their fine stock to great advantage. The money realized, so far as Kit's two comrades were concerned, was soon expended in fleeting pleasures and a new outfit for the next trapping expedition which might offer. Kit's former experience had been suffi- cient on this score, and he had become impressed with the highly important fact that there existed a much wiser course to be pursued. With his characteristic consistency, Kit acted upon this conviction and wisely saved his hard earnings. While remaining at Taos, Kit Carson met with Cap- GOING INTO WINTER QUARTERS. 79 tain Lee, formerly of the United States Army, but at this time a partner of Bent and St. Vrain, two names as familiarly known to the mountaineers as the house- hold words of their boyhood days. Captain Lee was purchasing goods for the purpose of trading with and supplying the trappers. He desired Kit Carson to join in his enterprise, and made him an offer, which was accepted. In the latter part of October, 1832, with their goods well packed and properly fitted for the rough transporta- tion which they must necessarily be subjected to, they set out to find the trappers. They traveled for some distance on a route well known as the " Old Spanish Trail," which was nothing more than a mule-path lead- ing from New Mexico to California. Having arrived safely at White River, they continued their march down stream, following the windings of the river until they came to Green River. Green River they forded, and then struck across the country for the Winty River, which is a branch of the Green River. Here they found Mr. Robidoux, who had a party of twenty men in his employ, and who was engaged both in trapping and trading, according as opportunity pre- sented itself. Soon after these parties met, snow began to fall, indicating the approach of the cold season. A mutual understanding having been arrived at, the two parties joined together, and began to establish winter quarters suitable for the whole. They selected a site for -their permanent camp on the Winty River, at its mouth, where the men made themselves as comfortable as possible under such cir- cumstances. They were provided with skin lodges, so common among the Indians of America, and which, ac- 80 MISPLACED CONFIDENCE. cording to Kit's mountaineering experience, are very comfortable substitutes for houses. During the winter Mr. Robidoux lost six of his most valuable and high-priced horses, in the following man- ner. Attached to the camp there was a California In- dian who was employed by Mr. Robidoux, a keen and shrewd savage ; and one, whose acquaintance with the trappers had enabled him to gain the confidence of Mr. Robidoux. He was also an expert with the rifle, and possessed undoubted courage with great bodily strength and activity. These qualifications made him a trouble- some customer in a skirmish. This Indian's education on the score of property rights had not been as well attended to as the meth- ods of attack and defence in the chase and on the war- path. By some, not strange, personal argument, he concluded to appropriate the six valuable horses above mentioned, in the law wordy vocabulary of civilization, " to his own use, benefit and behoof, without asking the consent, good-will, approbation, permission and personal directions of the said owner, to wit, Mr. Robidoux." As these horses were worth, even at that remote spot on the great American Continent, the just and full sum of two hundred dollars each, making a round sum total of twelve hundred dollars, Mr. Robidoux was not content to pocket the loss, or, much less, to allow the rascal to enjoy ill-gotten wealth on the principle that " stolen fruit is sweet." He determined if possible to show him that some stolen fruit is bitter. Knowing Kit Carson's reputation for skill and his fearless disposition, as soon as he had discovered his loss, he came and requested him to pursue the Indian. Kit Carson was a man who never worked without orders CARSON AFTER THE ROBBER. 81 except when he was leader. He therefore informed Cap- tain Lee of Mr. Robidoux's request, and asked permis- sion to serve his friend. This, as a matter of course, was readily granted by Captain Lee, when Kit instantly made his preparations for the adventure. He was very soon on horseback, well armed and well prepared for hard and close work. There chanced, near by to the camp, to be an Indian village belonging to the Utah tribe. The whites were on friendly terms with the inhabitants of this village, which determined Carson to seek out from among their warriors, one active and intelligent brave, and get him to join in the chase. This was the more easily accom- plished, as Carson's reputation for skill, courage and experience was already well kno\vn in this tribe. He, himself, had made a large circle of acquaintances among the braves, and many of them had become strongly at- tached to him, for it is a fact well known, that the American Indian warrior, as a general rule, is as true and unchangeable in his friendships as he is intense in his hatred. With this in view, Carson, putting his horse to his speed, started for the Utah village. On making his errand known to such of the braves as enjoyed his confidence, he found no difficulty in engag- ing a well-known warrior, and one on whom he knew he could rely, to accompany him. The wily savage was soon ready for the march, when Kit gave the word to start. Both men were splendidly mounted, and their pace w r as that of no sluggard. The high-conditioned animals which they rode seemed to catch the eager spirit of their masters, and entering into it, bent them- selves to their work with determination accordingly. To discover the trail of the deserter, and to study its 82 AN UNPLEASANT PREDICAMENT. various characteristics, a science of no mean or useless order in the matter of a woodman's education, required the two men to slacken their pace for a short time. The tracks made hy the stolen animals, however, were well marked, and, to such practiced eyes, afforded a certain indication as to their route. Again putting their horses to their speed, with compressed lips and eyes directed to the trail before them, Carson and the Indian warrior dashed on, feeling confident that, if the rascal escaped with his ill-gotten booty, the sin would not be laid upon their shoulders. The trail led down the Green Kiver. This fact made Carson conclude that California was the destination aimed at in the deserter's calculations. Kit and his Indian brave had accomplished about one hundred miles, having not once lost sight of the trail, when, most unfortunately for Kit, the horse of the Indian was suddenly taken sick and his strength gave out completely. The Indian could go no further except on foot, and this mode of travel he was unwilling to adopt, refusing absolutely Carson's request made to him to do so. This was an unpleasant predic- ament, especially as the rascal who formed the chase was a dangerous antagonist, even to an experienced fighter and in an honest cause. Goaded on by the fear of pun- ishment for theft, Carson well knew that he would re- quire all of his own address to purchase success; for the rascal would not fail to make a most desperate resistance. But Kit Carson's courage arose, as the difficulties of the adventure seemed to multiply. With a farewell word to his Indian companion, he put spurs to his horse and entered boldly upon the trail alone, being determined to run every hazard, which the unhappy accident to the Indian's horse seemed to require at his hands. The A DESPERATE ENCOUNTEK. 83 spectacle here presented to the reader is one which ex- hibits Kit Carson in his true character, both as a faith- ful and earnest friend, and a determined and dangerous adversary. Such was his character. A life of most singular events never found him false to his friend or his manhood. While he was not rash in judgment, he was consummately skillful, quick and brave. Onward he dashed, never for an instant taking his eagle eye from the tracks which formed his compass. Think not that such tracks are easily traced. None but a prac- ticed and ready eye can follow them to any advanta- geous end. To trace them even at a snail's pace, for an unpracticed eye, is like the child putting pen and ink to paper through his first copy-book of penmanship. Many and many an awful blot and horribly crooked line will doubtless carry the simile fully and strikingly to the mind. But the result which crowned Kit's efforts showed conclusively that, notwithstanding he had followed the trail for over one hundred and thirty miles, he had made no blots or crooked lines. At the distance of thirty miles from the place where he parted with his Indian companion, Kit discovered the chase. His pace now became tremendous. The wily savage had descried him almost the same instant that he was discovered by Kit, and instantly prepared for a desper- ate encounter. With this object in view the savage turned to seek a cover from whence he could fire upon his adversary and reload long before he should himself become exposed to a shot. The rascal's plan was good enough, but he was too slow in its execution to overcome Kit's activity. Kit had unslung his rifle as soon as he saw his enemy. Anticipating the object of the savage, he instantly covered him with his rifle. His horse was 84 CARSON'S SKILL WITH THE RIFLE. now at full speed and he was rapidly nearing the In- dian. At the moment he discovered that the In- dian had reached his cover, and before he could take advantage of it, without relaxing his horse's speed, he fired. The ball from Carson's rifle was so well directed that the Indian, as it struck him, gave one bound and then fell dead in his tracks. At the same instant the rascal's rifle went off with a sharp report, sending a bullet whizzing at some distance from the line of Carson's approach. The fact of the Indian's rifle being fired at all is a sufficient explanation of what was his intent, had his career not been so suddenly cut short, thereby preventing its fulfillment. The words of an old trapper are here very much to the point. The author was, on a fitting occasion, ques- tioning him in regard to Kit Carson's capabilities with the rifle. Said he: "If a man has a serious quarrel with Kit Carson, he had better not let him get the first sight over his rifle; for, if he succeeds in this, his adversary is as good as dead. An intimate acquaintance and tried friendship with Kit Carson has, since then, repeatedly furnished occa- sions which have confirmed this trapper's statement, although, in the first instance, a person would find it no easy task to render an altercation necessary, for Kit Carson always held his passions fully under control, and, besides, they were of a very conciliatory type. No man would sooner shun a difficulty when justice, honor, and necessity did not warrant strife. The work of collecting the horses was soon accom- plished, when Carson immediately commenced his jour- ney back to the camp. This he reached in safety, after overcoming a few minor difficulties caused by his WONDBOUS STORY-TELLING. 85 charge, and had the satisfaction of returning the six horses to Mr. Robidoux in as good condition as they were the night on which they were stolen, and also of informing him that there was one rascal less in the world to prey upon honest people. This event served to interrupt the monotony and routine of winter camp duty, affording a basis for many a long yarn during the evening hours around the camp fires. These trappers, especially whenever a green- eyed bundle of curiosity chances to seek their company, Cfin spin yarns most wondrous. The habits of the beaver and their remarkable instinct form a fit subject for their active imagination. It would doubtless add very much to the interest of these pages if we could set down a few of these anecdotes and tales for the general reader, but the task would be hopeless as to its ac- complishment. To give them life and reality, they re- quire all the surroundings of time, place, and occasion ; there should be the dark night ; the wild, whistling wind ; the shaking tent with its covering of skins ; the roasted venison, bear's meat, or horse-flesh ; the rifles standing in the corners ; the lamp of bear's grease in fine, all the similitude of camp life. Then the wild stories of bear fightings, beaver intelligence, Indian deviltry, and hair-breadth escapes, become intensely real. The auditor hangs upon each word which falls from the lips of the supposed sage orator with eager earnestness, while curiosity never becomes satisfied. " Ah ! Jones, that is a whopper." " Sure as I live, but the beaver slept every night with the trapper ; and in the day time, if he left the tent, the beaver would fall to work and make a dam 86 RATHER TOO KNOWING. across the floor of the tent, using the chist, skins, arms, and everything." "Oh! Jones!" " But, I tell you it is true. Tame a beaver once, and you'll find I'se tellin' a plain statement as true as ever a Padre made." " Padre ! who'd believe a Mexican priest ? Mr. Jones, that tame beaver of your'n must have been born in the States, where he hadn't trees and mud to build dams with, and had to resort to furnitur." "That beaver," responded Jones, " was as near like.a human bein' as any man present." " How do you make that out, Mr. Jones ? " " Why, one day his master died. Well, they tried all they could to console the beaver, but it 'twant no use. He wouldn't be consoled. All he did was to git an ole shoe belonging to his master, an' if he didn't haul that ere shoe around day after day wherever he went. Well, the beaver 'gan to grow thin, and one night they found he was a dyin', jest from starvin' him- self to death and a huggin' the ole shoe." " Oh ! Jones," said the greenhorn, "you don't expect I'll swallow all that yarn?" But Mr. Jones and all of the other trappers present preserved an imperturbable dignity of mien, as if the very reference to the animal mentioned demanded from them all due reverence. " Well, but that was not doing as a human being would do. I never seen a man carry an old shoe around till he died from starvin'." "That is neither here nor there," continued Mr. Jones. " It was when the trapper first made the bea- ver's acquaintance that he showed he knew as much as HABITS OF THE BEAVER. 87 a human critter. At that time he had one wife and lived with her all alone in a hole, side o' the dam. They had two sons and a darter. The darter the old beaver had married to a fine-lookin' young beaver who lived t'other side the dam." The whistle which the neophyte here gave seemed to give great dissatisfaction to all of the trappers present. One of them quietly asked him " Is that the way, youngster, you'se bin eddicated in perliteniss of manners ? If it is, I know a beaver who kin larn yon sumthin'. In the fust place, if a young beaver ever kums into the presence of the ole uns, especially if she's that is, the ole uns a female bea- ver, the young un 'mediately fetches his right fore paw up to his forehead, jest behind the right eyebrow, an* makes a reverintial bow of cerimony in salute. I'se seen that ar' oftener than you've put one leg ahead of t'other yit, young un." The trappers present all confirmed the truth of this statement by a solemn nod of assent to the query, "Ain't that true, gentlemen?" which, at least, served to prevent unceremonious whistling. It is thus that we might go on and fill page after page with this picture-talk of the trappers. Some of their yarns are pretty tightly strained, but most of them con- tain a capital hit and are usually founded on the facts. It is a well authenticated fact that the beaver has but- one mate, and that they live together a loving couple, as if husband and wife. As to their liaisons, coquetry, flirting, and so forth, doubtless the society in some parts of the human family will bear a faithful resemblance in these respects also. As an example of industry, the world will look in vain for a better one than is afforded 88 SUMMER ON LARAMIE RIVER. by the little beaver of the Western Rivers. Look at them patiently felling the tallest trees ; and, so nicely adjusting their fall and calculating their height, that they strike the opposite bank of their stream, gaming a fixed and permanent lodgment. It is thus that these wonderful little creatures will often erect dams across wide rivers and effectually stop the rushing torrents. As has appeared, after collecting the six horses, Kit Carson returned with them safely into camp. A few days subsequent to this occurrence, a band of trappers belonging to another party en route, entered the camp. These men reported that Fitzpatrick and Bridger were encamped on Snake River, distant about fifteen days' journey. This was too good news for Captain Lee and Kit to warrant their remaining any longer idle. They doubted not but that they should be able to dispose of their goods to these parties. With this object in view, they prepared for the march and started. Their jour- ney, although perilous and laborious, was successfully accomplished. Messrs. Fitzpatrick and Bridger re- ceived and entertained them very hospitably, and pur- chased their entire stock, paying therefor in beaver fur. Kit Carson then joined Fitzpatrick's band, but remained with it only one month. His reason for separating from it was, that there were too many congregated together either to accomplish much or to make the general result profitable in the distribution. He ac- cordingly arranged an enterprise upon his own account, and, from his well-established reputation, found more men than he wanted ready to join him. From those who applied he selected but three. These were men of the best material, and no man could judge a trapper's qualifications better than Kit Carson. WONDERFUL SAGACITY. 89 With his three men he immediately set out for the Laramie River. On this stream and its tributaries he spent the summer. Perhaps our readers will look for a full description of the course which the American trap- per pursues in order to catch beaver. It is very simple in its detail, but difficult and tedious in its application. The trap is the common steel trap made in the usual form; if there is any difference, it is larger and more powerful. It is set in the haunts of the beaver with a particular kind of bait* known chiefly among trappers. It is a singular fact, that, frequently, old beavers will be discovered springing the traps by the aid of a stick. If discovered at his work, he seems to enjoy hugely the vexation of the trappers, which they sometimes exhibit. An old trapper, however, especially if he be a French- man or Mexican, feels so much pride in the matter, that he will cover up his vexation under assumed politeness, as if the beaver could understand and appreciate his language. But to escape from these pleasing digressions, Kit Carson and his men concluded their summer's work with unusual success. Their exertions had been crowned with rewards which surpassed their fondest anticipations. As the wintry months were again fast coming on, Kit and his men determined to rejoin Bridger's command. The return trip was, therefore, commenced and duly prosecuted. Late one afternoon, just after the little party had gone into camp, Kit, having lingered somewhat behind, suddenly rode into the camp ground and leaped from his horse, giving it in care of one of the men. With his rifle, he then started in pursuit of game for supper. He walked on * Animalium patrls testiculum. 90 ADVENTURE WITH GRIZZLY BEARS. about one mile from the camp, and there came upon the fresh tracks of some elk. Following up the trail, he discovered the game grazing on the side of a hill. In the neighborhood of the animals there were some low and craggy pine trees. Moving along with great care, he finally gained the cover of the trees, which brought him in close proximity to the elk, and within certain range of his rifle. This care was the more necessary, as his party had been without meat diet for some time, and began to be greatly in heed thereof. These ever wary animals saw, or scented him ; or, at any rate, became conscious of approaching danger from some cause, before he could reach the spot from which he desired to take his aim. They had commenced moving, and, in another instant, would have bounded away, out of all reach of his rifle. His eye and piece, however, were too quick for them, for, bringing his piece into position, and without dwelling upon his aim, he sped a bullet after the largest and fattest of the noble game before him. He had wisely allowed for the first leap, for his shot caught the nimble animal in mid- air and brought him to the earth, writhing in his death agony with a fearful wound through the heart and lungs, from which there was no escape. One quiver ran through the frame of the beautiful animal, when he breathed his last. The echoing sound of the rifle- shot had hardly died away, to which the true hunter ever listens with unfeigned pleasure as the sweetest of music on his ear, whenever he has seen that his game is surely within his grasp, the last faint melody was broken in upon and completely lost in a terrific roar from the w r oods directly behind him. Instantly turning his head to note the source of this sound, the meaning Two huge aud terribly angry griz/ly bears were bounding towards him, their eyes flashing fiery passion, their pearly tooth glittering with eagerness to mangle his liesh, and their monstrous forearms, hung with sharp, bony claws, ready and anxious to hug his body in a close and most 1 ivinsr eni'miiv. PAKE 93. NO TIME TO COGITATE. 93 and cause of which he well knew by his experienced woodman's ear, educated until its nicety was truly won- derful, he saw two huge and terribly angry grizzly bears. As his eye first rested upon these unwelcome guests, they were bounding towards him, their eyes flashing fiery passion, their pearly teeth glittering with eagerness to mangle his flesh, and their monstrous fore- arms, hung with sharp, bony claws, ready and anxious to hug his body in a close and most loving embrace. There was not much time for Kit to scratch his head and cogitate. In fact, one instant spent in thought then would have proved his death-warrant without hope of a reprieve. Messrs. Bruin evidently considered their domain most unjustly intruded upon. The gentle elk and deer, mayhap, were their dancing boys and girls ; and, like many a petty king in savage land, they may have dined late, and were now enjoying a scenic treat of their ballet troupe. At all events, Kit required no second thought to perceive that the monarchs of the American forest were unappeasably angry, and were fast nearing him with mighty stride. Dropping his rifle, the little leaden bullet of which would now have been worth to him its weight in gold if it could, by some magic wand, have been transferred from the heart of the elk back into its breech, he bounded from his position in close imitation of the elk, but with better success. The trees ! he hoped and prayed, as he fairly flew over the ground with the bears hot in chase, for one quick grasp at a sturdy sapling. By good fortune, or special Providence, his hope, or prayer, was answered. Grasping a lower limb, he swung his body up into the first tier of branches just as passing Bruin brushed against one of his legs. Bears climb trees, and Kit 94 TICKLING THEIR NOSES. Carson was not ignorant of the fact. Instantly draw- ing his keen-edged hunting knife, he cut away for c life at a thick, short branch. The knife and his energy conquered the cutting jus: -re. Bruin had gathered ives up for an ascent, a proceeding on their part to which Mr. Carson would not give assent. Mr. Carson c was well acquainted with the M rs. Bruin's pride in, and extreme consideration for, their noses. A few .-harp raps made with the severed branch upon the noses of the ascending bears, while they fairly made them to howl with pain and rage, caused them hastily to beat a retreat. This scene of ascending, getting their no~es tickled, and again descending, howling with pain and rage, now kept Mr. Carson and Messrs. Bruin actively busy for some time. The huge monsters and monarch s of the mountains were determined not to give it up so. Such a full and fair chase, and to be beaten by a simple white man on their own domain! T evidently galled their sensitive natures. It is true the roaring of the bears in his rear had stimulated Mr. Car-on in the race, so much so that he undoubtedly ran at the top of his speed ; and, being naturally, as well as by long practice, very fleet of foot, he had managed to outstrip his pursuers in the race. It is true he had made short work of climbing the tree, and here again had very innocently beaten the bears at their own game, and one in which they took great pride. 1 more than probable that the bears were in too good condition to run well. Had it been early spring time they would doubtless have been much lower in tle>h. That was their own i'ault too; they should have known that racing time cannot be made on high condition. After leaving their hibernating quarters they should KIT VICTORIOUS. 95 have been less given to a sumptuous habit at the table. Affairs were, however, by no manner of means set- tled. They had the daring trespasser on their domain treed, and almost within their reach ; and, indeed, to keep out of the way of their uncomely claws, Kit was obliged to gather himself up in the smallest possible space and cling to the topmost boughs. The bears now allowed themselves a short respite for breathing, during which they gave vent to their wrath by many shrill screeches. Then they renewed their endeavors to force the hunter from his resting place. Mounted on their hind paws, they would reach for him ; but, the blows with the stick, applied freely to their noses, would make them desist. In vain did they exhaust every means to force the man to descend ; he was not to be driven or coaxed. The hard knocks they had sustained upon their noses had now aroused them almost to madness. Together they made one desperate effort to tear Kit from the tree. As in all their previ- ous attempts, they were foiled, and their ardor damp- ened and cooled by the drumming operations upon their noses, which this time was so freely and strongly applied upon one of them as to make him lachrymate and cry out with pain. One at a time they departed; but it was not until they had been out of sight and hearing for some time that Kit considered it safe to venture down from the tree, when he hastened to re- gain and immediately to reload his rifle. Thus ended an adventure in which Kit Carson con- sidered that he failed to lose life and limb by the nar- rowest miss that ever occurred to him. Although he had killed much more than his quantum of this kind of 96 THE GRIZZLY BEAR. game, and had gained what is a practical advantage to every western hunter, to wit : a knowledge of all their abilities with \tfrich they enforced sway, Kit Carson regarded this adventure in the light of a warning. It was a warning, too, which he never allowed himself to forget ; consequently, whenever he hunted afterward, he watched as closely for signs of Mr. Bruin as he did for the game he sought ; it would, therefore, have been a difficult matter for the bears again to surprise him. Some of the most desperate battles on record between hunters and wild animals are narrated of encounters with the bear tribe. Several years ago, a Mexican by the name of Arma- dor Sanchez, well known in the Rocky Mountains as a brave and skillful hunter, had a fight with a bear which lasted several hours. This terrible battle ended by both the combatants being laid prostrate upon the ground, so completely exhausted as to be utterly un- able to reach each other from the want of physical strength. In this condition they spent one night; and, on the following morning, when the brave Mexi- can hunter had recovered sufficiently to be able to creep to his antagonist, he found him dead. This close conflict grew out of the hunter's noble daring in endeavoring to save the life of a Mexican boy, whom, at the instant the hunter attacked the beast, the bear was about to tear into pieces. At one time the bear had the youth in his terrible clutches in such a manner that it was impossible for him to plant a shot in any vital organ. But nothing daunted, with his rifle and revolver, he lodged several bullets in other parts of the fierce monster. Still the savage animal clung to the unfortunate boy, endeavoring to tear him to pieces, A TERRIBLE CONFLICT. 97 and horribly mangling him in every part of his body. The noble hunter could resist no longer, and dropping his pistols and rifle, he drew his sheath- knife and slung-shot, and, after winding his blanket around his left arm to protect it, rushed in and com- pelled the animal to turn upon him. Wounds were freely given and returned ; but, the wary Mexican fought with such dexterity and determination, that the bear finally became so mad with pain and rage that by a tremendous effort, with one blow of his powerful paw, he knocked the brave hunter headlong upon the ground, where he lay some time before re- covering his breath. Instead of following up this ad- vantage, the brute, doubtless being deceived because the man did not move, commenced examining and licking his own bleeding wounds. But the brave hunter had now got his spirit so completely up, that he determined to conquer his antagonist or die. Early in the fight, by a blow from his slung-shot, he suc- ceeded in breaking the bear's lower jaw. This had greatly disabled the animal, and doubtless was the successful wound which eventually gave Sanchez the victory. When he felt himself sufficiently rested, he renewed the fight; and, by adopting various manoeu- vres, in which he was greatly assisted by some adja- cent trees, succeeded in putting in several telling blows with his knife. Again the animal became aroused to madness unendurable, and, gathering him- self up for a final effort, succeeded in planting a terri- ble blow on the hunter's head, which once more brought him to the ground. From this blow and the previous loss of blood, the brave man fainted en- tirely away. How long he remained in this state he 98 A FORMIDABLE ENEMY- could not tell ; but, on becom-ing again conscious, he found that the victory was on his side, for the bear had already breathed his last. The poor boy, notwith- standing his wounds, as soon as the battle was de- cided, and, as he supposed, at the cost of his friend's life, started for a neighboring fort, and, reaching it the following morning, reported the affair. A party of men well armed immediately marched to the rescue. They found the brave hunter in a most pitiful condi- tion, with his flesh terribly mangled, his clothes torn into ribbons, and his back and shoulders one mass of lacerated wounds. His reason had already become unseated. In his native language he would call out to his now visionary foe, " If you are a brave man, come on." Although the most delicate care and assistance was rendered to Sanchez, it was many weeks before he was able to resume his occupation ; and, even then, he owed his life to the wonderful recuperative powers of his healthy and iron constitution. Had the fact been otherwise, he could not have survived his injuries. One more brave heart must have yielded its last drop of he- roic blood in defence of youthful weakness. This pic- ture, because it does not exaggerate the facts, we leave with regret, for it is a pleasure to contemplate such nobility of character, whatever be the name which de- clares the governmental allegiance to the hero. It is not going beyond the bounds of truth to assert that the grizzly bear of the Rocky Mountains is as formidable an enemy as the hunter is called upon to meet, wherever the hunting-ground and whatever the animal which opponents to our assertion may set up. When caught out on the open prairie, where he can be attacked on horseback and lassoed, the chances HOME OF THE GRIZZLY REAR. THE KING OF BEASTS. 90 are against the bear; but, in a broken country, woe to his assailants, unless life is saved by some trick; or, happy fortune ; a lucky shot ; a telling blow, like Sanchez's with his slung-shot; or, the fanciful drum- ming, such as was Kit's, on the noses of his antagonists; or, some other equally singular and unlooked-for ex- pedient. The weight of one of these monsters often runs as high as fifteen hundred pounds, and their fore paws, which they can manage with the greatest dexterity, frequently measure fourteen inches. The courage, sagacity and skill invariably evinced by this species of bear, when engaged in a fight, is not equaled by any other wild animal on the face of the globe, not excepting the lion. We take pleasure in here giving further publicity to the careful research and plain truths which have ema- nated from the pen of that distinguished and success- ful traveler, Dr. Livingstone. The new ideas which appear in his pages in regard to the courage of the " King of Beasts," have served, in a measure, to cor- rect the general impression, and to bring down from its high-stilted hyperbole the courage, sagacity, and terrible power of the lion, which, he states, are overrated. We do not desire to contradict published statements any farther than our own personal knowledge extends ; hence, we give our authority for our statements in re- gard to the lion, very well satisfied ourself with Dr. Livingstone's love of truth and earnest candor. So much for the lion. Our statements in regard to the Rocky Mountain grizzly bear rest upon our own knowl- edge and investigation, gathered in his own haunts and on his own wild domain, and, as such, are given upon our own responsibility. Because brave American woods- 100 INDIANS HUNTING GRIZZLY BEARS. men can readily conquer the monarch of the American forest; and because the chicken-hearted Afric son, or dweller, trembles before the steady glare of the Afric King of Beasts, ergo his beardship must, in popular opinion., play subordinate to his lionship. For the sake of truth, we should like to see the Spanish arena once open for a fighting encounter between a Rocky Moun- tain bear and an African lion, full and native-grown specimens of each. The bull-fights all good men abhor ; but such a battle would serve to set at rest a fast-grow- ing doubt among naturalists, and, so far, would prove available to science and the cause of truth. We would readily stake a purse on the bear. With the Indians of the West, who live mostly by hunting, among whom nine out of ten would, single- handed, readily face a score of native lion spearsmen, and, we verily believe, put them to flight, a man is considered a great brave w'ho, alone, will undertake to kill a grizzly bear. If he succeeds, which is very rarely tlu case, his fortune in his tribe is made, once and for all. The reputation he .gains will cling to and follow him into his grave, and form one of the chief burdens of the tradition which bears his name to posterity. The Indians usually hunt and attack him in large parties, and, when the contest becomes really earnest, it re- quires a most immoderate amount of yelling, and fierce cry for the onset, to keep their bravery up in fighting trim. The victory is seldom gained without the sac- rifice of several lives. The mounted hunter almost in- variably finds it a difficult task to bring his charger even within shooting range of this kind of game. On an untrained or young horse the accomplishment of this feat is next to an impossibility, for instinct seems to ARRIVAL OF BRIDGEIi's PARTY. 101 teach them the true character of the game, even though they approach it for the first time. The author once saw thirty brave and determined men in pursuit. of an old grizzly bear and her two cubs, near the head waters of the Arkansas River. In vain they urged their horses to the chase. Not a single steed in the entire band could be induced to run for the game. The old bear was quite thin, and her young nearly half grown, and were very fleet of foot. The chase lasted for about three miles, but not a man present was able to obtain a shot, because their riding animals were so completely frightened as to be almost unmanageable ; consequently, the bears made good their escape. The last that was seen of them was their dim outlines as they traveled leisurely up a deep ravine. Darkness closed in about Kit Carson before he could reach his camp ; and, indeed, the sky was so cloudy that it was with great difficulty he found his way to it. The idea of sending out a pack animal for the elk was out of the question ; therefore, the whole party went supperless, to bed. In the morning they breakfasted upon a beaver found in one of their traps, for they well knew that, long before daylight, the prowling wolves had feasted upon the elk ; 'hence, they resigned it with- out a visit. The flavor of the meat of the beaver is not very palatable, and the trappers rarely use it ; never when they can do better. Not so with its tail. To this they are very partial, and, when properly boiled, it is, indeed, a great delicacy. Believing that Bridger would visit this place, Kit ordered his men to make a permanent camp. Kit's sagacity was not at fault in this hypothesis, for, in fifteen days, this famous old mountaineer made his ap- 102 THE SUMMER RENDEZVOUS. pearance, accompanied by his whole band. The two parties once more consolidated and started for the summer rendezvous, which was appointed to be held on the Green River. Upon their arrival at this place, they found congre- gated, all the principal trappers of the Rocky Moun- tains. They were divided into two camps, and num- bered about two hundred men. The objects which brought them thus together were, the disposal of their fur and the purchase of supplies. When all the parties had reported their arrival, the trading commenced and was conducted upon a basis which gave general satisfaction. The most exorbitant and fabulous prices ruled for such articles as the moun- taineers required. Sugar and coffee brought two dollars the pint ; powder, the same ; and ordinary blankets were sold at fifteen and twenty-five dollars each. Coffee, sugar, and even flour, were luxuries not every day indulged in by the hardy mountaineers. They seldom partook of such dainties ; not more frequently than two or three times in the year, and then, merely as rare treats. Their standard food was game, and wild vegetables when in their season. This meeting of the trappers continued in progress during two months. It was then dissolved ; and, once more the bold mountaineers formed into bands of a size convenient for trapping, and started out to engage in the fall hunt. Kit Carson joined a party of fifty men which was bound for the country occupied by the Black- feet Indians, and which lies on and adjacent to the head waters of the Missouri River. The party met with very poor success in catching beaver, but had their fill of annoyances from the tribe of savages already referred ON THE BIG SNAKE RIVER. 105 to. Finally the state of affairs between the trappers and the Indians became so desperate, that a white man could not leave his camp and go a distance of a single mile alone without being fired upon, so completely and untir- ingly was their camp surrounded and watched by this wily and dangerous tribe of Indians. This state of affairs led them to the determination to quit the country, as the trapping season was far ad- vanced. With this line of policy they began the march ; and, in the month of November, 1832, arrived on the banks of the Big Snake River, where they established winter quarters and remained until the subsequent February. During these winter months, the quiet monotony of their life was unexpectedly broken in upon by a band of their old enemies, the Blackfeet Indians. Taking advantage of an unusually dark night, they entered the camp and succeeded in running off eighteen of their horses. In consideration of their leniency displayed towards them when they w r ere engaged in trapping in their own country, then merely acting on the defensive, this act on the part of the savages appeared to the trap- pers to be more than they ought peaceably to bear. Such appeared to be the general opinion, and it was determined that a party should be sent out to recover the property and inflict a chastisement upon the hostile savages which they would not soon forget. Kit Carson with eleven men to accompany him was selected for this delicate but highly important service. Having prepared everything for the route, the party started, and after fifty miles of sharp riding through the snow, came up with the savages. The progress of the Indians had been, fortunately, considerably retarded by the 106 THE COUNCIL WITH BLACKFEET. necessity of breaking a path through the deep snow, which had but very recently fallen. The trappers in- stantly made an attempt to recover their animals, which were found grazing on the side of a hill, the Indians having previously come to a halt. In doing this, shots were exchanged by both parties without effect. The savages had on snow shoes, which gave them considera- ble advantage over the trappers. After some manoeu- vring, the Indians asked for a parley which was grant- ed. On these occasions, it is customary for one man from each party to advance to a spot about half-way between the contending parties and there have a talk. The rascals, through their representative, informed the trappers through their representative, that they had supposed that they had been committing a robbery upon the Snake Indians ; and, that they did not desire to steal from the white men. The trappers, believing these tales to be false, con- sidered this a mere ruse on the part of the Indians to nu'.ke them unwary of passing events. However, they put the very natural query to them, why, if they were so friendly disposed, they did not follow out their usual custom ; and, on seeing them approach, lay down their arms and advance to meet their white brothers, so that they might have a smoke together and talk over their difficulties and thus amicably settle matters. Their replies to this query contained nothing but evasions. Finally, however, it having been mutually agreed upon, both parties disarmed and marched to the place where their representatives were talking. The Calumet was then prepared, lighted and handed around to each person present, it being puffed once or twice by every one of the savages and every one of the CAKSON SEVERELY WOUNDED. 107 whites. The council then commenced. The head men among the savages led off by making several lengthy and unmeaning speeches. In their replies, the trappers came directly to the point, and said they could hear no overtures for peace, until their property was re- stored to them. The Indians, hearing this demand, several times repeated, began to presume upon their strength, assuming an overbearing demeanor. After considerable talk among themselves, they sent out and brought in five of the poorest horses, declaring that it was the only number they could return. The trappers upon hearing this, ran for their arms ; when the Indians instantly started for theirs. The fight was renewed by both parties. Kit Carson, in the rush made for the rifles, and one of his companions named Markhead, succeeded in getting hold of their weapons first ; and consequently, they formed the advance in the return to the contest. They selected for their antagonists, two Indians who were close together ; but who were partially concealed behind separate trees. As Kit was on the point of raising his rifle to fire, he saw by a quick side glance at Markhead, that he was working at the lock of his gun without paying attention to his adver- sary, who was aiming at him with, almost, a certainty of killing him. Kit instantly changed the direction of his rifle and fired, sending a bullet through the heart of Markhead's adversary ; but, in thus saving the life of his friend, he was obliged, for the instant, to neglect his own adversary. A quick glance showed him the fellow sighting over his rifle and that the mouth of the Indian's gun covered his breast. Upon the instant he endeavored to dodge the bullet, but he was unsuccess- ful in doing so completely. It struck him in such a way 108 FORTITUDE AND RESIGNATION. that, first cutting the skin of his neck and glancing, it passed through his left shoulder. The head of the bone of the arm in the shoulder was shattered ; but, fortu- nately, the main artery of the arm escaped injury. Not- withstanding his wound Kit immediately endeavored to reload his rifle. In this effort he was unsuccessful, for his left arm hung powerless by his side. He was obliged, therefore, to remain a mere spectator during the remainder of the fight ; when, being overcome by the loss of blood and the consequent fast increasing weakness, he threw himself upon the ground. The fight continued to be hotly contested by both the trap- pers and Indians until, gradually, the firing ceased, when the trappers drew off and went into camp. They did not dare to light any fires, as they would inevitably bring the Indians upon them. With nothing but their saddle-blankets to protect them from the bitter cold, even the safe and sound members of the party suffered severely. Kit's condition failed not to arouse the heartfelt sympathy of his friends, for there was not one among them who would not have readily risked life and limb to save Kit's. But his condition was most critical ; at the least, he was in a most unenviable condition. His wounds bled profusely, and the blood, as it oozed out, froze to the rude dressings. This, un- doubtedly, in the final result, was beneficial to him, as the cold acted as a partial check upon the hemorrhage. It was, however, none the less painful to endure. He bore his agonizing sufferings without a single murmur, exhibiting in patient fortitude and resignation the same brave spirit and dauntless courage which distinguished him in every action. Not once did a single complaint escape from his lips. Had he received this wound ON THE GREEN AND SNAKE RIVERS. 109 within the pales of civilization, with its concomitant constitution, he might never have recovered the use of his arm. In the pure air, and with a constitution in the best possible trim, after all danger from hemorrhage had passed, his chances to recover were favorable ; and finally resulted in giving him, once more, the full use of his arm. That night the trappers held a council. It was de- cided that, although the result of the fight had been that they had given the Indians a sound thrashing, there having been several braves killed, while they had suf- fered only in one wounded, they were, nevertheless, not then strong enough to pursue the savages farther. They adopted, therefore, the policy of returning to the camp and reporting their progress. On their arrival, a council was immediatelv called and w their adventures duly rehearsed. The result was, that a second party was immediately organized, comprising thirty men. Under the command of Bridger, this party followed the trail for some days, but returned to camp without finding the savages. They, after their late engagement, had made their way as fast as possible into distant parts. A short time after this the weather moderated, and it was time for the spring hunt. This Avas now commenced, and continued quite active for several weeks on the Green and Snake Rivers. The success of the trappers was far beyond their most san- guine expectations. Beaver fur seemed absolutely to rain down upon them. The season having passed, they went into summer rendezvous on the banks of the Green River. This was brought about by the arrival of the traders with their supplies. The whole force of trappers, therefore, again rested until the first week of 110 AN AFFAIR OF HONOR. September, when they again broke up their camp for the fall hunt. Some time previous to this last-named event, Kit Carson, having recovered from the effects of his wounds, was very reluctantly drawn into an " affair of honor." The circumstances of this occurrence we give in detail, for two reasons. It was an event in Carson's life, and, therefore, is required -at our hands ; but it serves to exhibit the manner of the duello among these western mountaineers, which throws around the circumstance the importance of an example in their manners and customs. By itself, so far as Kit Carson was concerned, it was of very little importance, serving but little, in his opinion, to adorn the story of his life. Among the men congregated at the rendezvous, there was a Captain Shunan, a powerful Frenchman. The Captain was exceedingly overbearing in his intercourse with all around him. Upon the slightest pretext, he was sure to endeavor to involve some of the trappers in a quarrel. The result was that he was heartily despised by all, although, for the sake of peace, he was allowed to go unmolested. One day his conduct was particularly offensive to the entire command, for, after having had two fist fights with a couple of weak and inoffensive men, he commenced boasting that he could easily flog all the Frenchmen present, and, as to the Americans, he said that " he could cut a stick and s\\itch them." Such actions and manners at last at- tracted Kit Carson's notice, and caused him to be greatly annoyed. He thought the matter over, and concluded that if Captain Shunan was allowed to gather many more such detestable laurels, he would soon become even more bold and troublesome. As no other member FACING A BULLY. Ill of tho company seemed disposed to put a check upon such unmanly behavior, he quietly determined to make the affair his own. An opportunity soon presented itself. A number of the company had congregated together and were en- gaged in conversation, when Captain Shunan began anew his bullying language, this time a little more boisterous than usual. Kit Carson, advancing into the centre of the company, and placing himself in front of the Captain, thus addressed him : " Shunan, before you stands the humblest specimen of an American in this band of trappers, among whom there are, to my certain knowledge, men who could easily chastise you, but, being peaceably disposed, they keep aloof from you. At any rate, I assume the re- sponsibility of ordering you to cease your threats, or I will be under the necessity of killing you." To this Captain Shunan did not reply ; but, im- mediately after Kit Carson had closed his remarks, he turned upon his heel and walked directly for his lodge. Kit Carson was too well versed in trapper rules not to read the meaning of this action. He, therefore, walked off also, but in the direction of his own lodge. In a brief space of time both men appeared before the camp, each mounted on their respective horses. The affair had drawn together the whole band, and there were many witnesses of the facts here recorded. Captain Shunan was armed with his rifle. Kit Car- son had taken merely a single-barrel dragoon pistol, which happened to be the first weapon that had fallen in his way, because of his hurry to be on the ground. The two men now rode rapidly towards one another, PUNISHING A BRAGGADOCIO. until their horses' heads almost touched, when both horsemen reined up, and Kit Carson addressed Captain Shunan as follows : "Am I the person you are looking for ? " Captain Shunan replied, " No ! " It was apparent that this reply of Captain Shunan was a falsehood ; for, while giving it utterance, he raised his rifle in the act of shooting, bringing it to his shoulder and covering his antagonist. Before, how- ever. Captain Shunan could discharge his gun, the ball from Kit Carson's pistol shattered his fore-arm, causing the rifle to tilt upwards, which changed the direction of its contents in such a way that Kit Carson received a wound in his scalp, while the powder severely burnt h*s face. It was the universal opinion of the spectators of this unhappy scene that both parties fired nearly at the same instant. The facts of the case show very plainly, first, that Captain Shunan's intent was to kill his an- tagonist. Why did he aim at Kit Carson's breast? Second, that Kit Carson's shot was delivered perhaps a second or two in advance of Captain Shunan's ; third, that Kit Carson did not desire to kill his antagonist, but merely to save his own life by disabling his ad- versary. The fact that his shot struck first and hit Captain Shunan's right arm is sufficient proof of this. When Kit Carson's well-known and indisputable skill with all kinds of fire-arms is taken into the account, and that, notwithstanding this skill, he hit his adver- sary in one of only two places (his right or left arms i which would have rendered his aim with the rifle un- certain, the statement that Kit Carson did not intend to kill his adversary becomes an incontrovertible iuct. sfore, however, Ctptein Shunan could discharge his gun, the ball from Kit Carson's pistol shattered hia forearm. PAGB 112. ORDER AND PEACE IN THE CAMP. 115 Last, had Kit Carson not gained a second in advance in the firing, he would have lost his own life, inevitably ; and, the emphatic " No ! " the lie of his antagonist, would have been crowned with success. Such plain deception seldom is allowed to triumph by an all-wise Providence. In judging Kit Carson in this matter, the reader will commit an ungenerous error if he fails to allow to be placed, in the balance of judgment, the stirring deeds and daily hair-breadth risks Kit Carson, during so many years of his eventful life, was constantly called upon to take a part in and undergo. We take leave of this unfortunate scene in his life, feeling confident a just public opinion will see in it no cause to pluck from the brow of Kit Carson any of the laurels which it has been called upon to place there. As a man of truth, honor, virtue, and reverence for the laws of his coun- try, Kit Carson had few equals and no superior among Americans. It needed not this incident to establish his courage ; that had long been proven to be undoubted. Nor did the result elate his feelings in the least*. He met his companions without a smile, and invariably expressed his regrets that he felt it to be his duty, for the good order and peace of the camp, to interfere in the matter. On the other hand, when he espoused the cause of the majority in maintaining the right, he was not a man to be easily thwarted. When the affair was ended, Kit was congratulated, and received the thanks of nearly every individual present; for, each felt that a load of most vexatious and troublesome responsibility had been taken from his shoulders. The good fellowship immediately introduced into the camp was also a circumstance of mark. 116 SETTLING DIFFICULTIES. The wounded man was carried to his quarters and every attention shown him in the power of his com- panions. His punishment had the effect completely to subdue him. These duels among the old trappers of the Rocky Mountains were not very unfrequent occurrences. Men, situated as they were, beyond the reach of the mighty arm of the law, find it absolutely necessary to legislate for themselves. It is not within our province to advocate either the right or wrong of dueling ; for, w r ith the best of reasoning, there will always exist a differ- ence of opinion on the subject. In the case of these mountaineers, when any serious offence was given, the man receiving the injury to body or fame, held the right of demanding satisfaction. The interests of the entire band required an immediate settlement of diffi- culties, so that their future plans could be carried out in concert. In their dealings with each other they were strictly honorable; and when by any mischance a rogue crept into their ranks, if detected in any rascal- ity, he was summarily and severely dealt with. Their duels were serious events; for, oftentimes both men were killed. In fact the case could hardly be other- wise. They were men of unflinching courage, and their weapons were generally rifles, which, from long practice, they held with a certain and deadly aim. RESTORATION OF CAPTIVES. TilE FALL HUNT. 117 CHAPTER V. The Fall Hunt McCoy of the Hudson's Bay Company organizes a Trap- ping Party which Kit Carson joins The Hunt Scarcity of Beaver on Hutnboldt River The Party is divided Kit Carson with a majority of the Men goes to Fort Hall Hardships and Privations met witl.' Bleeding Mules and drinking the warm blood to keep from starving Buffalo Hunt All their Animals Stolen in the Night by a Party of Blackfeet Indians Arrival of McCoy from Fort Walla Walla The Rendezvous Kit Carson joins a strong Band The Small-Pox among the Blackfeet Indians The Crow Indians on good terms with the Whites Intense Cold Immense Herds of Buffalo Daugor of their Goring the Horses to Death The Spring Hunt The Blackfeet Indian Village overtaken A desperate Fight with these Indians The Ren- dezvous Sir William Stuart and a favorite Missionary Kit Carson goes on a Trading Expedition to the Navajo Indians The Return He accepts the post of Hunter of the Trading Post at Brov/n's Hole ARRANGEMENTS for the fall hunt were now in active progress among the trappers. Though the reader may find some similarity of fact and idea as we progress in this part of the Life of Kit Carson, the interest which hangs about it, nevertheless, will not, or should not be dampened, because this pen-painting of his long and active experience is a better and more faithful exhibit of those qualifications, knowledge, and skill which afterwards made him first the guide and then the bosom friend of the illustrious Fremont, than any assertions, whether authenticated by published record, whether rested upon statement on knowledge, informa- tion, and belief of acquaintances and friends, or, whether WINTERING ON THE BIG SNAKE KIVER. facts taken from the thousand allusions to his exploits, which have, from time to time, Hooded the press of the United States. The company of trappers which had been so for- tunate as to secure the services of Kit Carson, for facts seem now to warrant us in employing this language of just praise, set out for the Yellow Stone River, which stream they safely reached, and on which they set their traps. Dame Fortune here seemed to be in an unpleas- ant mood. Crossing the country from the Yellow Stone to the Big Horn River, they again courted the old lady's smile with stoical patience, but with no better results. They next extended their efforts to the three forks of the Missouri River ; also, to the Big Snake River. The fickle old lady proved scornful on all these streams, and finally, on the latter stream and its tributaries they wintered. In this section of the country they fell in with Mr. Thomas McCoy, a trader who was in the employ of the Hudson's Bay Company. In his trading operations Mr. McCoy had been unsuccessful, and had concluded to organize a trapping expedition. The inducements which he held out led Kit Carson and five of his com- panions to become members of his party. With him they traveled to Mary's River,* from whence reports had circulated that beaver existed in great abundance. The party struck upon this stream high up, and slowly followed it down to where it is lost in the Great Basin. Their success here was not satisfactory ; consequently, the party returned to the Big Snake River. By McCoy's direction, the party tarried upon this river for * We give the name which was applied to this river at the date of the facto related to the text. It is now culled the Huuiboldt liiver. UPPER FALLS, YELLOWSTONE RIVER. YELLOWSTONE LAKE. DRINKING MULE'S BLOOD. 121 some time, when it was divided. McCoy and a small escort started for Fort Walla Walla. Kit Carson and the majority of the men took up their line of march for Fort Hall. While en route, the latter division was sub- jected to the greatest privations imaginable. Among the worst of these was hunger, as their trail led through a barren region of country. For a short time they managed to subsist upon a small supply of nutritious roots, which had been provided in advance. This source finally gave out, when their affairs assumed a most desperate attitude. To keep from starving, they bled their mules, and drank the warm red blood with avidity, so acutely had the days of fasting sharpened their ap- petites. This operation, however, could not be repeated without endangering the lives of their animals. These also were on a short allowance of food, for the grass was very poor and scanty. The whole party had become frightfully reduced in strength, and began to think it necessary to kill some of their animals, which at this time they could but ill spare. In this terrible condition they met with a band of Indians, who proved to be of a friendly disposition. The party was then only about four days' journey from Fort Hall. Most unhappily, the Indians themselves possessed but a scanty supply of provisions, and no more than their immediate wants required. It was not without considerable manoeuver- ing and talk, during which all the skill and Indian expe- rience possessed by Kit Carson were brought into active requisition, that the savages were prevailed upon to trade with the trappers. By the trade, the half-famished men obtained a fat horse, which was immediately killed, and on which they regaled with as much relish as the epicure in the settlements enjoys his "joint of roast beef." 122 nORSE-FLESH OR STARVATION. To a man not accustomed to this kind of meat, mule- flesh and horse-flesh would not be likely to prove over tempting or appropriate viands. Let him feel the pangs of hunger very sharply, and his ideas of lusciousness and propriety in respect to food will rapidly change. The civilized world has condemned the practice as be- longing to barbarians. A mountaineer, not being quite so fastidious, scouts these ideas, considering them fool- ish prejudices of people who have never been forced by necessity to test the wisdom of their condemnation. Let the epicurean sages have their choice, eat horse- flesh or starve, and, they confidently maintain, horse- flesh would gradually grow to be considered a dainty, the rarer over beef in proportion to its greater COM. The trappers of the western prairies, who wander thousands of miles over barren as well as fertile lands, where game cannot exist from stern necessity, are compelled to submit to all kinds of vicissitudes ; but, with buoyant spirits, they conquer results, which a faint heart and yielding courage would behold almost in their grasp but fail to reach. An emergency calls forth skill and great energies ; and, in an unexplored country where, as in the case here recorded, everything living suddenly disappears, it is then that the wits of a trapper save his life when an ordinary traveler would lie down and die. Kit Carson and his men at last succeeded in reaching Fort Hall. They were kindly received and amply pro- vided for by the whites who then occupied it as a trad- ing post. Here they rapidly recruited their strength, and in the course of a few days felt able to start out upon a buffalo hunt. Reports had come in that large nuwbers of buffalo existed in close proximity to the SOJOURN AT FORT HALL. 123 Fort. Kit Carson and his men were not the kind who live upon the bounty of others when game can be had in return for the necessary effort to find. They were also not the men to hoard their stock of provisions whenever they met parties in distress. The first query which different bands of trappers offer to each other on meeting in the wilderness, is, "Does game exist in plenty," or " is game plenty in such and such sections of country?" This takes precedence over the com- monplace question, " What's the news ? " Oftentimes, when venturing into distant and unexplored districts of territory, they were obliged to take their chances of finding sustenance ; but, they hardly ever neglected an opportunity to inform, themselves on the subject : on the contrary, they often sacrificed both time and profits in order to secure correct details. Any other course would have been fool-hardy rashness, just fit for parties of over-bold inexperience to take the con- sequences of. Hunting the buffalo is a manly and interesting sport; and, as Kit Carson on this occasion engaged in it with successful results, it might be interesting to the general reader, and, in this place, the unity of the narrative seems to require a complete and practical description of the manner of taking the buffalo. "We have, how- ever, deferred this part of our duty to an occasion when Kit Carson had his friend John C. Fremont upon his first buffalo hunt. We shall then permit the bold Explorer to tell the story of a buffalo hunt in our behalf. During their sojourn at Fort Hall, the hardy trappers were not idle. Besides the calls upon them by the hunt, they set to work with great industry, repairing JUDGED NOT BY HIS COAT. their saddles, clothing, and moccasins. With the aid of a few buckskins, procured from Indians, and a few rude tools, they soon accomplished wonders. To give the reader an appropriate view of the genius to conquer obstacles displayed by the mountaineers, he must picture one of them just starting upon a long journey over the prairies and through the mountains. His wagon and harness trappings, if he chances to be possessed of worldly effects sufficient to warrant him in purchasing a first-class putfit, present a neat and trim appearance. Follow him to the point of his destina- tion, and there the reader will discover, perhaps, a hundredth part of the original vehicle and trappings. While en route, the bold and self-reliant man has met with a hundred accidents. He has been repeatedly called upon to mend and patch both wagon and har- ness, besides his own clothing. Though he now pre- sents a dilapidated appearance, he is none the less a man ; and, if his name is known as a regular trapper and mountaineer, he is immediately a welcomed and honored guest. If the broadcloth of a prince covered his back, spotless, scientifically shaped and foreign woven, his reception would hot be more heartfelt and sincerely cordial. It is amusing to see the rawhide patches of harness, wagon and clothing, now become dry and hard as oak. To have dispensed with the use of buckskin on his route, would have been like cutting off the right arm of the gallant pioneer. Buckskin and ,the western wilds of America are almost synonymous terms ; at least, the one suggests the other, and there- fore they are of the same brotherhood. The traveler in these regions of this day fails not to learn and ap- preciate its value. It has not only furnished material CUEING BUFFALO MEAT. 125 for clothing, but has been used to repair almost every article in daily use. Even the camp and tea-kettle, as well as the frying, milk and saucepan, bedstead and hammock, chair and table, all have had their buckskin appendage, as fast as any of them have become injured or broken. Everything being in readiness, Carson set out with his followers for their hunting-grounds. Their pace was one of so much rapidity, that after one day's march they discovered signs of the buffalo. On the following morning immense herds were in sight. A suitable place fgr a camp was soon selected, and everything which could impede their work well stowed away. The best marksmen were selected for hunters, and the remainder of the party detailed to take care of the meat as fast as the hunters should bring it in. Poles were planted on the open prairies, and from one to the other ropes of hide were stretched. Upon these ropes strips of the buffalo meat were hung for curing, which consists of merely drying it in the sun's rays. After it is sufficiently dried, it is taken down and bound up in bundles. During the time of hunting and curing, the trappers feasted upon the delicacies of the game, which consist of the tongue, liver and peculiar fat which is found along the back of the buffalo. Their past suffer- ings from hunger had made them so determined in the work of procuring game, that in a few days they pos- sessed meat sufficient to load down all their pack arii-- mals. They now thought about returning to Fort Hall, Their pace, however, rendered so by their weighty game, was very slow. Their old enemies, the Black- feet Indians, had discovered them while engaged in this hunt. They followed them on the march to the Fort, 126 DEPRIVED OF THEIR ANIMALS. the trappers being wholly unaware of their presence ; in fact, the idea of hostile Indians had not troubled their thoughts. Two or three nights after they arrived at the Fort, taking advantage of a dark evening, the Indians de- prived them of all their animals. This was the result of carelessness on the part of one of the men, which, under the circumstances, was excusable. The party had encamped just without the pickets of the Fort, but had taken the precaution to secure their horses and mules while they slept, by placing them in the corral belonging to the station. A sentinel was pt upon duty over the corral, in order to make everything doubly secure. In the latter part of the night, nearly at daybreak, the sentinel saw two persons advance and deliberately let down the bars leading into the yard and drive out the animals. He mistook these men for two of his companions who were authorized to take the herd out to graze. Concluding, therefore, without going to them, that he was relieved, he sought his resting-place and was soon fast asleep. In the morn- ing, anxious inquiries were made for the horses and mules, when a very short investigation revealed the truth of matters. It was, undoubtedly, very fortunate for the sentinel that he fell into the error alluded to. It was very apparent that the two advanced Indians who let down the bars were backed up by a strong party. The signs of Indians, discovered afterwards, proved this beyond a doubt. Their reserve party were posted where the least resistance on the part of the sentinel would have been followed by his quick nml certain death. This successful theft was, no doubt, considered by the Indians a cause for great rejoicing. THE BLACKFEET INDIANS. 127 It may have formed the basis of promoting the brave who planned and directed it, as the animals had been obtained without the loss of a man or even the receiv- ing of a wound. The parties living at the Fort were equally as poorly off for horses and mules as were now the trappers. The same Indians had recently performed the same trick upon them. The loss was most severely felt by the trappers, inasmuch as they had not a single animal left upon which to give chase. Nothing re- mained for them to enact, except a stoical indifference over their loss, and await the return of McCoy, who had agreed, after finishing his business at Fort Walla Walla, to rejoin them at Fort Hall. This tribe of Indians, the Blackfeet, whose meddle- some dispositions have so frequently brought them in contact with Kit Carson in such and dissimilar affairs, occupied the country on the Yellow Stone River and about the head waters of the Missouri. There were other tribes in close proximity, the most important of which was the tribe called the Crows. When Kit Carson first entered upon his wild career, the Blackfeet Indians numbered nearly thirty thousand souls. They were greatly reduced in numbers within the next six or seven years, between 1832 and 1839. In the last- named year, in consequence of the ravages of the small- pox, heretofore alluded to, and which prevailed the year previous, they had lost at least fifty per cent. They have now dwindled down to a few thousands. They are one of the finest races of the American Aborigines. Powerful in frame and development ; well trained in horsemanship, although in this they are sur- passed by the Camanches ; capable of great endurance ; and usually well fitted as to arms, dress, horse trappings, 128 A THIEVING HORDE OF SAVAGES. et ccetera, they generally prove knotty customers as enemies. We ought not to pass by this notice of the Blackfeet Indians without calling the attention of the in- quisitive reader to a remarkable proof which is afforded by the whole intercourse of these western trappers with the Blackfeet Indians, as thus detailed by Kit Carson, of an assertion hazarded some years ago, by Charles De Wolf Brownell, in his admirable work upon the Indian races ot North and South America. On pages 531-2, Mr. Brownell comes to the defence of the Crow tribe of Indians, which, up to that time, had been character- ized as a " lawless, thieving horde of savages." "But," says Mr. Brownell, " those best acquainted with their character and disposition, speak of them as honest and trustworthy." The adventures of Kit Carson among both the Crow and the Blackfeet Indians, we think, demonstrate pretty conclusively which of these contig- uous tribes are the horse stealers. The Crows, it will be remembered, were more particularly inhabitants* of the mountainous regions. The Blackfeet have ever been their sworn and inplacable foes. Their burials of the hatchet have been few and far between, and never in deep soil. It is not, therefore, to be wondered at that the Blackfeet reputation should extend to the Crows ; but, although circumstances exist which con- demn the latter, they are few in number compared with the sins laid by the traders and trappers at the tent-doors of the former. After the lapse of one month McCoy made his ap- pearance and, most opportunely, brought an extra supply of animals. The camp was soon struck and the whole band started for the rendezvous, which had been appointed to convene at the mouth of Horse A BLACKFEET WARRIOR. SMALL-POX AMONG THE INDIANS. 131 Creek on the Green River. They reached this place after several days of hard travel. As usual, trading operations did not commence until all the regular bands of trappers had arrived and reported. They were then commenced and continued through a period of twenty days. Here Kit Carson left the company under McCoy, and joined a company under the man- agement of a Mr. Fontenelle, which numbered one hundred men. This party went to and trapped on the Yellow Stone River. On commencing operations, the party was divided into fifty trappers and fifty keepers. The duties of the former w r ere to take the beaver and provide game for food ; the latter, to guard their prop- erty and cook. The trappers were now in the midst of their sworn foes, the Blackfeet Indians. They felt themselves sufficiently strong and were desirous of paying off old scores. They therefore trapped where they pleased, being determined to dispute the right of possession to the country if attacked. They were not, however, molested. A good reason appeared for this, soon after, brought by some friendly Indians belong- ing to the Crow Tribe. They informed the whites that the small-pox was making terrible havoc with the Black- feet Indians. Thousands were dying, and fears were en- tertained that the whole tribe would be cut off. In order to attend to their sick they had secluded themselves. The trapping season being nearly over, as the streams began to freeze, the party commenced looking out for a camping site. In conjunction with the main body of the Crow nation they proceeded to a well protected valley, and erected their lodges, making themselves as comfort- able as possible under the circumstances. As the 132 IMMENSE HEEDS OF STARVING BUFFALOES. season advanced, the cold became more severe, until at last, it was more intense than ever before experi- enced by the trappers or Indians. Fuel, however, was abundant, and, excepting the inconvenience of keeping unusually large fires, they suffered but little. Not so with their animals. It was with the greatest difficulty that they preserved them from starvation. By the most unwearied exertions, however, they succeeded in obtaining food enough barely to keep them alive until the weather became more mild and auspicious. At one time the crisis was so imminent, that the trappers were compelled to resort to cotton-wood trees, thawing the bark and small branches, after gathering them, by their fires. This bark was torn from the trees in shreds sufficiently small for the animals to masticate. The Indians of the Eocky Mountains, when suffering from hunger, are often driven to the extremity of eating this material. For miles, not unfrequently, the trav- eler discovers these trees denuded of their bark, after a party has passed through on their way to find the buf- falo. The rough, outside cuticle is discarded, and the tender texture, next to the body of the tree, is the part selected for food. It will act in staying the appetite, but cannot, for any great length of time, support life. It is dangerous to allow starving animals to eat freely of it; the trappers, therefore, fed it to them but sparingly. The intense cold operated to bring upon them another serious annoyance, in the shape of immense herds of starving buffalo, which, goaded on by the pangs of hunger, would watch for an opportunity to gore the animals and steal their scanty allowance of provender. It was only by building large fires in the MURDERED BY SIOUX INDIANS. 133 valleys and constantly standing guard that the trappers succeeded in keeping them off. During the winter, to beguile the time, the whites vied with their Indian allies in many of their sports. As game existed in superabundance, always ready for a loaded rifle, both parties were contented and happy. Time flew away rapidly and soon brought again the sunshine of spring, with the buds and blossoms, gay wild flowers, green herbage and forest verdure. For the purpose of procuring supplies, the trappers dis- patched two messengers to Fort Laramie. They did not return and were never again heard from. The conclusion which gained belief was, that they had been murdered by the Sioux Indians. The party waited as long as they possibly could for the return of their two companions, but, finally were compelled to commence the spring hunt without .them. They trap- ped a short time on the Yellow Stone River and then went to the Twenty-Five Yard River. From thence they proceeded to the head waters of the Missouri, and, on the most northern of its forks, remained some time, meeting with considerable success. Here they obtained news of the Blackfeet Indians, which showed that the ravages of the small-pox had been greatly overesti- mated. They were still nearly as strong, and in char- acter, had not at all become subdued. Upon drawing near to the source of this river, they discovered that the main village of these savages, their old foes, was in close proximity. This was pleasing intelligence to the trappers. They had suffered too many unprovoked in- sults at their hands not to desire the avenging of their wrongs and to punish them by way of retaliation. Dur- ing the w r hole winter, and, in fact, from the time the 134 PLANS FOR THE CAMPAIGN. party was first organized, they had anxiously abided their opportunity to meet and punish the rascally Blackfeet warriors. The old scores or sores had been festering too long, and here was a chance to probe them satisfactorily. The party cautiously followed upon the trail which led to the Indian encampment until within one day's journey of it. Here they came to a halt. Kit Carson, with five men, w r as sent in advance to reconnoitre. Upon approaching the Indians, the reconnoitering party discovered them busily engaged driving in their animals to saddle and pack, and making such other preparations necessary to the effecting of a hurried de- campment. Kit and his companions hastened back and reported the results of their observations. A council was immediately held which decided to send out forty- three picked men to give battle ; and, for the com- mander of this party, Kit Carson was unanimously elected. The 'fifty-five men left behind under Mr. Fon- tenelle had the onerous duty of guarding the aninlals and equipage. It was a part of the programme, also, that the latter force should move on slowly and act as a reserve in case of need. Kit Carson and his command were in fine spirits, and lost no time in overhauling the village. In the first charge they killed ten of the bravest warriors. The savages quickly recovered from this blow and com- menced retreating in good order. For three consecu- tive hours they heroically received a series of these furious and deadly assaults without offering much re- sistance. At the end of this time the firing of the mountaineers began to slacken, as their ammunition was running low. These experienced and brave, though Although some distance off, Kit sprang from his saddle, and, with the leap of an antelope, and the rallying cry for his men, \vus on the ground, ready to made a oer- tiu hot. His aim and the crack of his rifle almost belonged to the same instant of time. PAGE 133. KIT SAVES COTTON'S LIFE. 13 J rascally Indians, soon surmised the cause of this sudden change of affairs. Rallying their forces, they turned Upon their assailants in right good earnest, and a des- perate hand-to-hand engagement ensued. The white men now had an opportunity to use their small arms, which told with such terrible effect upon their foes that they were soon driven back again. They, how- ever, rallied once more and charged so manfully that the trappers were forced to retreat. In this latter en- gagement a horse belonging to a mountaineer by the name of Cotton, fell, throwing his rider and holding him on the ground by his weight. This happened as he was passing a point of rocks. Six of the warriors, see- ing the accident, instantly hurried forward to take Cot- ton's scalp. But Kit Carson's eagle eye was watching every part of the battle-field, and discovered, in time to be of service, the danger to which his friend was exposed. Although some distance off, Kit sprang from his saddle, and with the leap of an antelope, and the rallying cry for his men, was on the ground, ready to make a certain shot. His aim and the crack of his rifle almost belonged to the same instant of time. It was none the less sure. The foremost warrior, a powerful savage, whose fingers evidently itched for the scalp of the mountaineer, fell, shot through the heart. By this time others had followed the bold example of their leader, when the five remaining warriors, seeing the imminent danger wnich threatened them, turned to run back into their band. But two of them, however, reached a place of safety. The remainder, caught in their fleet career by the unerring and death-dealing bullets of the mountaineers, measured their lengths upon the battle-ground, stricken with wounds which de- 136 AN EXCITING SKIRMISH. manded and received from them their last wild war- whoop. When Kit Carson fired, his horse, being under no restraint, became frightened and dashed away, leaving his brave rider on foot. Kit, however, instantly com- prehended his position. The fallen horseman had suc- ceeded in extricating himself, but not without difficulty, for the ground was very uneven. He had received a few pretty severe contusions, but was, notwithstanding these, worth a dozen Indians yet, and failed not to show the fact. Seeing Cotton thus all right, Kit Carson made his way to one of his companions, and, as the fighting had, apparently by mutual consent, ceased for a few moments, mounted up behind him, and thus re- joined the main body of his men. The runaway horse, after quite a chase, was soon captured by a trapper and returned to his captain. A period of inactivity now reigned over the battle-field, each party apparently waiting for the other to again open the ball. During this resting spell, the reserve division of the trappers came in sight, having been anxiously expected for some time. The Indians showed no fear at this addition to the number of their adversaries. On the contrary, being no doubt carried away by their recent success in making a stand, they commenced posting themselves among the rocks about one hundred and fifty yards dis- tant from the position taken np by the trappers. The arrival of the reserve was a great relief to the advance, because they were tired of fighting without ammuni- tion. Having well filled their ammunition pouches they once more became eager for the affray. Every- thing being in readiness, with a cheer, they started on foot to attack and dislodge the enemy. In a few mo- FIGHTING AMONG THE ROCKS. 139 ments was commenced the severest skirmish of the day. It became so exciting that frequently a trapper would occupy one side, and a stalwart warrior the other, of sorne large rock, each intent upon the life of his adversary. In such cases it required the closest watchfulness and the utmost dexterity to kill or dis- lodge the bold savage. The power of powder in the hands of skillful men soon began to assert its superior- ity in the battle, and when once the Indians commenced to waver, it was all over with them. Their first wa- vering soon broke into a complete rout, when they ran for their lives. As they scattered in every direction, the pursuit which followed was short. In this battle the trappers considered that they had thoroughly set- tled all outstanding accounts with the Blackfeet In- dians, for they had killed a large number of their war- riors and wounded many more. On their side three men only were killed and a few severely wounded. Fontenelle and his men camped for a few days in the vicinity of the scene of their late engagement, burying their dead and repairing damages. They then resumed the business of trapping, traversing the Blackfeet coun- try whenever they chose, without fear of molestation. The success in their late engagement seemed to follow them in their business, for their stock of fur accumu- lated rapidly. While they were encamped upon Green River, an express rider, sent by the traders, came into camp and informed the party that the rendezvous would be held on Mud River. With a large stock of beaver, the party started for that place, arriving in eight days. Besides the usual traders and trappers, the party met at this rendezvous some missionaries and a distinguished 140 "OLD FATHER DE SMIDT." English nobleman, Sir William Stuart. Of this latter gentleman, Kit Carson says : " For the goodness of his heart and numerous rare qualities of mind, he will always be remembered by those of the mountaineers who had the honor of bis acquaintance." Among the missionaries was " Old Father De Smidt," as he afterwards came to be familiarly called. Perhaps there never was a person in the wilds of America who became so universally beloved, both by the white and red man. While in the mountains, he acted with un- tiring zeal for the good of all with whom he came in contact. Wherever duty called him, there he was sure to be found, no matter what the obstacles or dangers spread upon the path. He worked during a long series of years in these dangerous localities, and accomplished much good. When, at last, he returned to civilization, he left an indelible name behind him. For years he was a leading literary and religious man in St. Louis, Mo., and, at the time of his death, which took place only a short time ago, was beloved and respected by all that knew him. In twenty days after the camp at the rendezvous was formed, it broke up again into small parties. Kit Car- son, with seven companions, went to Brown's Hole. This was a trading post. Here they found two traders who were contemplating getting up a business expedi- tion to the Navajoe Indians.- This tribe exhibits more traces of white blood than any other of the wild races in North America. They are brave, and fond of own- ing large possessions. These consist chiefly of immense herds of fine horses and sheep. In this respect they are not unlike the ancient inhabitants of the earth, who " watched their roving store" on Syrian soil and AMONG THE NAVAJOES. 141 the contiguous countries. The parties who desired to trade with them usually carried a stock of trinkets and articles of use, for which they received horses, mules, blankets, and lariets.* Navajoe blankets are very celebrated in the far west of America, and especially in Old Mexico, where they are in great demand and command high prices. Many of these articles are really beautiful, and, from their fine texture, together with the great amount of labor spent in their manufacture, are expensive, even when purchased of the Indians. The art of weaving these blankets has been long known to the Navajoe Indians, and all the female children belonging to the nation are taught the art diiring their earliest years. It is only after much practice, however, that they become expert. Kit Carson joined the two traders, whose names were Thompson and Sinclair, and made the trip with them which they had planned. They realized very hand- somely from it, bringing back a large drove of very fine mules. The animals were driven to the Fort, on the South Fork of the Platte, where they were disposed of at fair prices. Having received his share of the profits, Kit returned again to Brown's Hole. The sea- son was too far gone for him to think of joining another trapping expedition that fall. He therefore began to look about for some suitable employment for the winter. As soon as it became known that his services were open for an engagement, several offers were made him, all of which he rejected. The reader will doubt- less see a contrast between the Kit Carson renowned as a trapper and hunter, and the Kit Carson who, at * A lariet Is a beautifully made rope, manufactured from hides, and used for picketing horses out upon the prairies. They aro worth, in New Mexico, about two dollars each. 142 HUNTER TO THE FORT. Taos, only a few years before, was glad to hire out as a cook, in order to gain his daily sustenance. For some time, strong inducements of high wages had been held out to him by the occupants of the Fort, in order to prevail upon him to accept the responsible and ardu- ous office of Hunter to the Fort. The task of supply ing, by the aid of the rifle, all the flesh twenty men would naturally consume during an entire winter, formed the duty required and expected from this offi- cer. The inducements were so tempting, the task so congenial with his feelings, and withal, the urgent per- suasions of the men so pressing, that Kit Carson finally accepted the offer and entered upon his duties. He soon showed the company that he knew his business, and could perform it with an ease and certainty which failed not to elicit universal esteem and commendation. When the time arrived for him to resign the office in the spring, he left behind him golden opinions of his skill as a marksman. ANOTHER TRAPPING EXPEDITION. 143 CHAPTER YI. Bridger and Carson trapping on the Black Hills The Main Camp The Rendezvous Winter Quarters on the Yellow Stone Carson with forty men in a desperate tight with the Blackfeet Indians A Council Sentinel posted One Thousand Warriors come to punish the Trappers The War Dance The Courage of the Savages deserts them Winter Quarters The Spring Hunt Another Fight with the Blackfeet Continued Annoyances The Trappers abandon the Coun- try Scenery on the Columbia The Rocky Mountains and Alps compared Other Trapping Expeditions Beaver becoming scarce Prices of Fur reduced Kit Carson and the Trappers give up their Vocation The Journey to Bent's Fort Mitchell the Mountaineer His Eccentricities. IN the spring, Kit Carson joined Bridger. With four companions they went to the Black Hills to hunt. In the streams adjacent to that country, the beaver ex- isted in large numbers, and their success in trapping was excellent. Soon after arriving, however, the party broke up. Kit Carson and a trapper named Owens made a hunt by themselves, and were very fortunate in obtaining a large stock of the fur. After which they joined the main camp of the trappers on Green River. When the summer was pretty well advanced, the camp was broken up and all its occupants started for the rendez- vous, this year held on the Popoayhi, a branch of the Wind River. In the fall, most of the trappers went to the country which lies in the immediate neighborhood of the Yel- 9 141 AGAIX AFTER THE RED-SKIXS. low Stone River. Having trapped all the streams there, they went into winter quarters on that stream. Nothing was heard of their sworn enemies, the Black- feet Indians, until about the middle of the winter. A party who were out hunting suddenly came upon some signs which, looking suspicious, attracted their attention. To these signs they gave a close investigation, and fully made up their minds that they were close to the strong- hold of their foes. Without waiting to follow up the signs, they immediately retraced their steps and in- formed their party in camp of their conviction that trouble was brewing. A command of forty men was instantly detailed to seek out the Indians and give them battle Kit Carson was once more called upon to lead the brave trappers in this expedition, and everything was left to his direction and good judg- ment. Soon after commencing their march, the com- pany fell in with a scouting party of the enemy in the vicinity of the spot where the fresh signs had been dis- covered. To this party the trappers gave chase, wisely concluding they would run for their main body. The result satisfied their anticipations. In a short time they found themselves opposed to a strong band of Indians, when a regular fight was instantly commenced. After quite a spirited contest, the Indians gave way and re- treated, but in good order, to an island in the Yellow Stone River, where they had previously erected strong barricades. Night put a stop to the scenes of the day, and further action was deferred until the next morning. As soon as the light would again warrant it, the trap- pers plunged into the stream and made for the island, being determined to dislodge the Indians. To their great dismay the brave savages had already retreated, RED WITH FRESH BLOOD. 145 having quietly given them the slip during the night. The result of the battle the day before was now made apparent. It was evident that not much powder had been wasted in the action. The snow within the forti- fication was red with fresh blood, and from the place a bloody trail led to a hole in the ice of the stream where a large number of lifeless bodies had been sunk. There was nothing now to be done except to return to camp. Upon their arrival a council was convened to devise measures and plans for their future conduct. It was quite evident to all that the campaign had but just com- menced. It was the general impression that the main village of the Blackfeet tribe had been located within a few miles. When, therefore, the news of their recent severe loss should be carried there by the survivors in the battle, active measures would be set on foot to seek revenge. It was the decision of the council that the trappers should act chiefly on the defensive. Measures were immediately set on foot to guard against surprise. To make everything doubly secure, none but the most trusty and well-tried men were detailed to perform sen- tinel duty. Near their camp there was a very lofty hill which commanded a fine view of the surrounding coun- try. Upon this eminence they posted a sentinel through- out the day-time. Their arrangements having been all determined upon and plans laid, the execution of them, to men so well skilled in frontier life, occupied but little time. Notwithstanding this celerity in their movements, they had been none too quick. Soon after their prepa- rations were fully made, the sentinel on the hill gave his signal indicating the approach of the Indians, showing that their precaution in this respect had been a wise one. The order was immediately given to erect strong 146 AN INDIAN WAR-DANCE. breastworks. This task was so successfully accomplished that, in a few hours, they had prepared a little fortress which, covered with their unerring rifles, was impreg- nable against any force the Indians could bring against it. The advance party of the savages soon appeared in sight, but when they discovered the strength of the trap- pers, they halted and awaited, distant about half a mile from the breastwork, the arrival of the rest of the band. It was three days before the whole force of the Indians had arrived. They mustered about one thousand war- riors. It was a sight which few white men of the American nation have looked upon. Arrayed in their fantastic war costume and bedaubed with paint, armed with lances, bows and arrows, rifles, tomahawks, knives, etc., some mounted and some on foot, they presented a wild and fearful scene of barbaric strength and fancy. Soon after their last company had reported, the fright- ful war-dance, peculiar to the American savages, was enacted in sight of the trappers' position. The battle songs and shouts which accompanied the dance reached the ears of the whites with fearful distinctness. Any other than hearts of oak with courage of steel would have quailed before this terrible display of savage en- mity and ferocity. This dance, to men so well skilled in the ways of the Indian warrior, was a sure signal that the next day would be certain to have a fearful his- tory for one party or the other, and doubtless for both. The odds, most assuredly, were apparently greatly in favor of the savage host and against the little band of hardy mountaineers. The following day the expectations of the trappers were realized. The Indians, at the first dawn of day, approached the breastwork, eager for the battle. They AN INDIAN WAR DANCE. AFRAID TO FACE THE DANGER. 149 were evidently very much astonished at beholding the invincibility of the trappers' position. It was what they had not calculated upon, and seemed to cast a perfect damper upon their courage. After firing a few shots, which did no harm, and seeing that nothing could be accomplished except by a charge, they commenced a retreat. The trappers, though only sixty strong, were filled with disappointment and chagrin at the course taken by their wary foes. They began to shout to their enemies in derisive terms, hoping the taunts would exasperate and draw them into an attack. Noth- ing, however, would tempt them to face the danger, for they withdrew to a spot about one mile from the little fort and sat down in council. The speeches ap- peared to be generally opposed to risking an assault, for, after the council was dissolved, the Indians divided into two nearly equal parties and immediately marched off. One band took the direction of the Crow country, and the other shaped their course in the direction from whence they came. The trappers remained at their little fort during the winter, and were not again disturbed by the Indians. Early in the following spring, they set their traps on one of the tributaries of the Missouri River, and finished the hunt on the head of Lewis' Fork. They then de- parted for the rendezvous which was held on Green River, near the mouth of Horse Creek, remaining there until the month of August, and until the meeting was dissolved. Kit Carson, on the breaking up of the camp at the rendezvous, accompanied by five other trappers, went to Fort Hall, and joined a party attached to the " North- west Fur Company." With this band he trapped to 150 MEETING OF OLD FRIENDS. the head of Salmon River. Thence they went to Malade Eiver, trapping down it to where it empties into the Big Snake River. They continued on up this latter river, and then, after trapping on Goose Creek and Raft River, returned to Fort Hall. Their stock of fur was quite -extensive on their arrival here, and, an opportunity offering to dispose of it, they sold out at a fair valuation. After recruiting their strength at the Fort for one month, Kit Carson, accompanied by most of the trappers, set out to join Bridger, who was still in the country of the Blackfeet Indians. Upon striking the Missouri River, signs of trappers were discovered, in- dicating that, whoever the party or parties might be, they were now above the place where Kit and his party then were. With fourteen companions, Kit started in advance of the main party to overtake, and report who these men were. Towards evening of the same day, the advance party came up with the trappers, and found that they were under the charge of Joseph Gale and in the employ of Captain Wyatt. Gale informed Carson that his command had recently been engaged in a closely contested fight with the Blackfeet Indians; that several of his party had been wounded, and one, by the name of Richard Owens, was at first thought to be mortally so, but eventually he had begun to recover and now was doing well. Kit and his men remained one night with Gale. On the following day his party commenced setting their traps, intending to proceed up the river at a slow pace, in order to allow the main party to overtake them. The men sent out to set their traps had not gone from the camp over two miles before they were fired upon by a party of Blackfeet Indians and compelled to re- UNEARTHLY YELLS, AND DESPERATE COURAGE. 151 treat. They did so, succeeding in jofning their com- rades without the loss of a single man. The pursuit had been close and well sustained by the savages ; hence, it became necessary to take instant measures in order to insure the safety of the advance. Kit Carson, who was the commander of the party, after quietly surveying the scene, gave orders for the men, with their animals, to conceal themselves, as best they could in the brush. His orders had been issued but just in time, for the concealment was barely attained, when the Indians were upon them. They were received with a well-directed volley from the rifles of the little party, which brought down several of the fierce assail- ants. They recoiled and retreated for a moment. The moment was golden to the few white men. Like men who were fighting for their lives, but who were cool in danger, they made no mistakes in reloading their rifles. They were but just ready, however, for the sec- ond charge. This time the savages came on with un- earthly yells and desperate courage, seemingly well satisfied that before them stood the men whose faithful rifle-talk they had heard before. Kit warned his men to keep cool and fire as if shooting game, a warning which was entirely unnecessary, for the result was that the savages were again driven back with a brave bleed- ing or dying for nearly every shot fired. It was very fortunate that Kit had chosen this position, for the en- gagement lasted nearly the entire day. The loss on the part of the Indians was very severe. They did everything in their power to force Kit and his party from their cover, but without avail. Every time they attempted to charge into the thicket the same deadly volley was poured in with never-failing aim, which in- 152 DRIVEN OUT OF THE COUNTRY. variably caused the savages to beat a hasty retreat. Before the next attack the trappers ware ready for them with reloaded rifles. At last, as if driven to despera- tion, the Indians set the thicket on fire, hoping to burn out their foes. Most providentially, in this also they were foiled. After consuming the outer shrubbery, the fire died out. This was the last act attempted by the savages. Seeing the ill success of their effort to dis- lodge the trappers by fire, they departed. They may have been hurried in this leave-taking somewhat by news brought in by their spies of the near approach of the main body of the trappers, which had arrived at a point about six miles distant from the battle-ground. They had been prevented from hearing the reports of fire-arms, by adverse winds, and knew nothing of the fight until informed by the trappers engaged in it. When sufficient time had elapsed for the Indians to be well out of sight, Kit Carson and his companions left their cover and soon found their way into the camp of their friends. Gale was so continually annoyed by these Indians that he joined the other trappers and together they concluded to leave their country. Their combined forces, though able to cope with them so far as defen- sive measures were necessary, was utterly powerless to overawe them. This made it next to an impossibility for them to continue in their country with a hope of success in business. For the purpose of getting rid of them they moved off, some distance, to a small creek where beaver were plenty. Trouble followed them, however. The first day of their arrival, one of the party was killed by the Blackfeet Indians within a short distance only, of the camp. During the remainder of 11 THE RIVER OF THE WEST." 153 the stay made by the party on this stream, the rascals hovered around and worried them to such a degree that a trapper could not leave the camp without falling into an ambuscade and being forced to fight his way back again. It became evident to all interested that, so long as such a state of affairs existed, they could not employ their time with just hope of advantage. After a short council, it was decided to abandon this region of the country and go to a branch of Columbia River, near Flat Head Lake. Of the many beautiful rivers on which Carson trap- ped, none could equal in scenery the Columbia. It is " THE RIVER OF THE WEST." As described by Richardson : " Clear, blue, glassy, dotted with little islands of greenest foliage, and broken by dangerous rapids, the Columbia is unrivaled upon our continent in grandeur and magnitude. The Hud- son no more compares with it than does the Arkansas with the Hudson." " Beside it rise grand, abrupt moun- tains, deeply wooded with firs, crowned with stupen- dous rocks, carpeted by yellow moss, girdled with strands of snowy cloud, and streaked with water-falls of perfect whiteness.' After several narrow escapes from the troublesome Blackfeet, our party accomplished the journey, and commenced the business of trapping. Proceeding up the river, on the fourth day, they came, suddenly, upon a large village of Flathead and Pondrai Indians, who were encamped upon its banks. These Indians were friendly to the whites. A chief of the Flatheads and several of his people joined the trappers, and went with them to the Big Snake River, where they established their winter quarters. The 154 MOUNTAINS OF SNOW. winter passed away so quietly that not a single incident occurred beyond the usual routine, which the imagina- tion of the reader can easily supply. It was quite cold that season, and the snow fell to a great depth. Every- thing, however, was arranged as best conduced to com- fort, and the trappers found a pleasant and congenial exercise in hunting to supply their daily wants. The winter seasons in the Rocky Mountains are usu- ally fearful and severe. There, snow-storms form moun- tains for themselves, filling up the passes for weeks, even those which are low being impracticable either for man or beast. As a set-off to all this, the scenery is most grand, provided the beholder is well housed. If the case is otherwise, and he be doomed to combat these terrible storms, his situation is most critical. During the summer months, the lofty peaks of this mighty chain of mountains, like those of the Alps, are covered with white caps of snow. As time, the bright sun, and the south wind wear out these old-lady head-gearings, no matter what be the part of the year, whether the cold days of January or the hot days of August, the snow- storms are faithful in replenishing them. It affords a contrast of the elements of the grandest conception to stand in the shade of some wavy verdure of the valley, wiping off the unbidden perspiration from the brow, and, at the same instant, look upon a darkly threatening storm-cloud powdering the heads of the hoary monster mountains from its freight of flaky snow. So for, tin-so American giant mountains are unsurpassed by their Alpine neighbors of Europe. Not so in the glaciers. Throughout the great range, there are none of those beautiful glaciers to be found that can compare with those possessed by their compeers in Europe. THE ALPS OF AMERICA. 157 To the traveler whose taste has led him to wander along the " Great backbones," or vertebrae, of the two hemispheres, preparing the mind to draw truthful con- trast, his pleasantest reveries will find him drawing comparisons between them. He is never tired, for the subject he cannot exhaust. When, supposing that his conclusions are at last made, and that the Alps have won the highest place in favor, some forgotten scene from America will assume the form and shape of a vivid recollection, rife with scenic grandeur and sublimity, restoring the Rocky chain to its counterpoise ; then an hour of peril and fearful toil will come to memory, and, until the same mental process shall bring them again to an equilibrium, the far-famed Alps will descend in the balance. Each have their attractions, each their grandeur, each their sublimity, each their wonderful, awful silence, each their long and glorious landscape views, while, to each, the general contour is the same In the point of altitude, the Rocky chain, as is well known to science, has the advantage ; but, in historical science and lore, the famous Alps stand preeminent True, it is from ignorance that we are led to concede this, because no man can give to the world the reminis- cences of the Rocky Mountains. Their history, since the first red man entered them, must forever rest in oblivion. In scenery, these mountains of the Western Continent again carry off the palm, for they strike the observer as being more bold, wild, and picturesque than their formidable rivals. To the foot-worn traveler, who has journeyed thirty or forty days upon the level prairies, seeing nothing to break the monotony of a sea of earth, the dark outlines of the Rocky Mountains, gradually coming into the view, never fail to prove a 158 MAGNIFICENT SCENERY. refreshing sight both to the physical and mental eye. They appear as if descending from the heavens to the surface of the earth, perpendicularly., as though in- tended to present a perfect barrier over which no living thing should pass. This view never fails to engross the earnest attention of the traveler, and hours of gazing only serve to enwrap the mind in deeper and more fixed contemplation. Is there not here presented a field such as no other part of this globe can furnish, in which the explorer, the geologist, the botanist may sow and reap a rich harvest for his enterprise ? To the hunter, the real lover of, and dependent upon the chase, there can be no comparison between the mighty Alps and the huge Rocky Mountain Barrier of the American Prairies. The one is destitute of animal life, while the other bears a teeming population of the choicest game known to the swift-leaden messenger of the white man's rifle. He who wishes to behold in the same gaze beautiful valleys, highly cultivated by a romantic and interest- ing race, in rich contrast with w r onderfully moulded masses of earth and stone, covered with a medley of green foliage and white snow, let him go the Alps. In the following spring, Kit Carson, accompanied by only one trapper, started out to hunt the streams in the vicinity of Big Snake River. The Utah nation of Indians inhabited this country, and with them Kit Car- son stood on friendly footing. The business of trap- ping was therefore carried on without fear of molesta- tion. The labors of the two were crowned with great success. Loaded with a full cargo of fur, they soon after set out for Robidoux's Fort, which they reached in safety, selling out their stock to good advantage. "HERE COMES PARSON WILLIAMS." 159 Kit Carson made only a short stop at this Fort. As soon as his fur was disposed of, he immediately organ- ized a small party consisting of five trappers and made a journey to Grand River. After thoroughly trapping this river, he established himself at Brown's Hole on Green River for the winter. Early in the spring he returned with the same party to the country of the Utahs and hunted there for some time. He then went to the middle Park, where they finished their trapping operations and returned to Robidoux's Fort. Here Kit met many of his old friends and associates, and among them William Williams, better known as " Parson Williams " and Old Bill Williams." It will not be out of place to give a short history of this re- markable man. William Williams was a most celebrated character in the Rocky Mountains, where he lived for many years. At one time he was a Methodist preacher in the State of Missouri, which he frequently boasted of in after life. Whenever relating this part of his eventful career, he used to say that he was so well known in his circuit, that the chickens recognized him as he came riding past the farm-houses. The old chanticleers would crow, " Here comes Parson Williams ! One of us must be made ready for dinner." Upon quitting the States, he traveled extensively among the various tribes of wild Indians throughout the far West and adopted their man- ners and customs. Whenever he grew weary of one nation, he would go to another. To the Missionaries, he was often very useful. He possessed the faculty of easily acquiring languages, and could readily translate most of the Bible into several Indian dialects. His own conduct, however, was frequently in strange con- 160 AN INSANE GUIDE. trast with the precepts of that Holy Book. He next turns up as a hunter and trapper ; when, in this capac- ity, he became more celebrated for his wild and daring adventures, than before he had been for his mild pre- cepts. By many of his companions, he was looked upon as a man who was partially insane. Williams proved to be a perfect enigma and terror to the Mexi- cans, who thought him possessed of an evil spirit He once settled for a short time in their midst and became a trader. Soon after he had established himself, he had a quarrel with some of his customers about his charges. He appeared to be instantly disgusted with the Mexicans, for he threw his small stock of goods into the street of the town where he lived, seized his rifle and started again for the mountains. His knowl- edge of the country over which he had wandered, was very extensive ; but, when Colonel Fremont put it to the test, he came very near sacrificing his life to his guidance. This was probably owing to the failing of Williams' intellect ; for, when he joined the great ex- plorer, he was past the meridian of life. After be- queathing his name to several mountains, rivers and passes, which were undoubtedly discovered by him, he was slain by the red men while trading with them. At Robidoux's Fort, Carson again found a purchaser for his fur; but, the prices at which he was obliged to sell them, did not at all please him. Within a few years, the value of beaver fur had greatly deteriorated. This was caused by the slow demand which had gradu- ally ruled at the great emporiums of Europe and America. The skill of the manufacturer had substi- tuted a material for the making of hats which, while it was cheaper, pleased the great race of hat-wearers. AN INDIAN SIGN OF MOURNING. 161 The beaver itself was becoming scarce, owing to their being so diligently hunted. It was evident to Kit Car- son and many of his mountaineer companions that their occupation was gradually becoming less profita- ble, and that it would soon drive them into other em- ployments. Acting upon this impression, Kit Carson, accompanied by "Old Bill Williams," William New, Mitchell and Fredericks, a Frenchman, started for Bent's Fort, which was then located on the Arkansas River, near a large forest of cotton-wood trees, and which is, even at this day, known as the " Big Timbers." The party struck the river at a point abput one hundred miles above the Fort, where, in later years, was built a settlement called St. Charles, and which for many years was subjected to various kinds of annoyances from In- dians. On one occasion it was attacked by the hos- tile Utahs and Apaches, who killed and carried off as prisoners a total of sixteen settlers. Among the slain was a Canadian who fought so skillfully and desper- ately before he was dispatched, that he killed three of his assailants. When his body was found, it was liter- ally pierced through and through with lance and ar- row wounds, while the hand with which he had caught hold of some of these weapons, was nearly cut to pieces. Around his corpse, there were a dozen horses' tails which had been cut from the horses which were owned by the dead warriors, and left there, as a sign of mourning, by the Indians. On reaching the river, two of the party, Mitchell and New, concluded to tarry awhile in order to gratify their humor for hunting. But Kit Carson, with the remain- der of the mountaineers, continued on their course, and in three days' time were safely lodged within the walls 162 AN ECCEXTEIC MOUNTAINEER. of the Fort. One week subsequently Mitchell and New followed their companions to the Fort, but in a sad plight. They had not suspected danger, and, conse- quently had failed to guard against it. They had been surrounded by Indians and deprived of everything they possessed except their naked bodies. In this denuded state they arrived at the Fort. They were kindly re- ceived and provided for by its noble-hearted proprie- tors, and for some time enjoyed a respite from all their troubles. This mountaineer Mitchell, full of eccentricities of character, has seen the ups and downs of a frontiers- man during a long and eventful life. He once joined the Camanche nation and became one of their braves. In this capacity he won great renown by the efficient and active part he took in several engagements between the tribe of his adoption and their enemies. His real object in turning Indian was to discover the locality of a gold mine which was said to have an existence in some of the mountains of northern Texas. Having convinced himself that the story of the gold mine, like many of the tales and traditions which gain currency in Indian countries, was entirely without foundation, Mitchell, with some plausible excuse, bid his red friends good-by and sought out his old comrades, the trappers, to whom he ever afterwards proved faithful. Some years since, Mitchell paid a trading visit to the States. On his route it became necessary that he should pass over the Kansas Territory, just at a time when po- litical difficulties there were exciting the people to the highest pitch of anxiety. The consequence was, that his views upon the all-absorbing questions at issue were frequently asked for by members of both parties. DISGUSTED WITH THE WHITES. 163 To all these queries he invariably replied, professing his ignorance of everything that appertained thereto. This caused him to be regarded as a dangerous man, and one not to be trusted. He was accordingly treated with indifference and silent reserve. This, to a moun- taineer, who, during a long period of years, had met every " pale face " as a brother, was insupportable usage. In all haste he finished his business, relinquished his con- templated journey through the States, and started to return to his home in New Mexico. While upon the road, he accidentally fell in with a friend, and, in reply to the question, Where have you been ? said : "After a lapse of many years, I thought I should like to see the whites again, so I was going to the States. But the sample I have seen in Kansas is enough to dis- gust a man with their character. They do nothing but get up war-parties against one another; and I would much rather be in an Indian country than in civilized Kansas." Mitchell is full of dry humor and commands the faculty of telling a good story, which makes him a pleasant traveling companion. Since the time when Kit Carson first joined a trap- ping expedition, up to the time of his arrival at Bent's Fort, a period of eight long years, he had known no rest from arduous toil. Not even when, to the reader, he was apparently idle, buried in the deep snows of the Rocky Mountains and awaiting the return of Spring, has he rested from toil. Even then his daily life has been given up to bodily fatigue and danger, frequently in scenes which, although of thrilling interest, are too lengthy for this narrative. It has been our purpose thus far to present Kit Carson undergoing his novitiate. We regard, and we think a world will eventually re- 10 164 YEARS OF STIRRING, PRACTICAL LIFE. gard, this extraordinary man as one raised up by Prov- idence to fulfill a destiny of His all-wise decree. It is premature for us, at this stage of our work to advance the argument upon which this conclusion, so irresistibly to our mind, is deduced. We have yet before us an array of historical fact and incident to relate, without parallel in the history of nations, and in which Kit Carson played no insignificant part. For these eight years of stirring, practical life, Kit Carson, relying upon his beloved rifle for his sustenance and protection, had penetrated every part of the interior of the North American Continent, setting his traps upon every river of note which rises within this interior, and tracing them from the little springs which originate them to the wide mouths from which they pour their surcharged waters into the mighty viaducts or drains of the vast prairies, and the mighty leviathan ranges of the Rocky Moun- tains. In this time he had wandered over a wild terri- tory equal in its dimensions to nearly all of the em- pires, kingdoms and principalities of Europe combined. His journeys, as it has already appeared, were made sometimes on foot and sometimes on horseback. By themselves, his travels will be called no trivial under- takings. Each fresh adventure led him into regions where but seldom, and more frequently never, had a white man trod the soil. He was, therefore, now an explorer in every sense of that distinguishing word, with the single exception that he had not produced the results which the early culture and advantages of a scientific and classical education might have brought about. But the history of the world furnishes few ex- amples, if indeed any, where the physical training, prac- tical skill and knowledge of a country, as possessed GOD IN NATURE; GOD IN EVENTS. by Kit Carson, have been united with scholastic lore. At all events, in the wisdom of that special Prov- idence which was intending the gold mines of Cali- fornia to be consecrated to the advancement of Ameri- can civilization, with its religious freedom, personal liberties and sacred literature, the novitiate of Kit Car- son was decreed to be wholly of a practical nature. But while Kit Carson, with his rifle, was thus reared up in character, courage and experience, the same All-wise hand was directing the pathway of a mind, equal to accomplish His call, through all the labyrinths of Sci- ence, History and the Arts, endowing that mind with a keenness of intellectual grasp in strange contrast with the practical skill of its future guide. Those who see no God in nature, no God in events, may batter away at this proposition. The record of Kit Carson's future tasks will prove it to be an invincible stronghold of theory. Kit Carson's mind had now become well stored with facts and localities which were destined to be made known to the world through his connections with oth- ers. It is not detracting from the merits of any one to assert that, without frontiersmen like Kit Carson, the numerous scientific expeditions which have been sent out by the United States Government to explore the far West, would have returned but sorry and meagre records for their employers. After reading some of the many printed accounts which parties of a more re- cent date have gathered from their experience, while making their way overland to the Pacific, and also the sad fate of some brave men, with noble hearts, who have fallen a sacrifice upon the altar of science under the fatal blows of hostile savages, attributable, no 166 THE HARDSHIPS OF LIFE. doubt, in some measure, to bad advice, we can thus more easily form a correct judgment of the hardships which Kit Carson was called upon to endure, and the wisdom or skill which he had displayed in surmounting every obstacle on his wild and solitary pathway. The hardships which fell to the lot of the " trappers of olden time " also stand o'ut in bolder relief. Out of the whole catalogue of labors, from which man, to gain an honest livelihood, has selected, there is not one profession which presents so many formidable obstacles as that under consideration ; yet, it was with difficulty that the mountaineers could wean themselves from their calling, even when forced by stern necessity. HUNTER TO THE FORT. 167 OHAPTEE Til. Kit Carson is employed as Hunter to Bent's Fort His career for Eight Years Messrs. Bent and St. Vraiu The Commencement of his Ac- quaintance with John C. Fremont on a Steamboat Is employed as a Guide by the Great Explorer The Journey Arrival at Fort Lara- mie Indian Difficulties The business of the Expedition completed Return to Fort Laramie Kit Carson goes to Taos and is married He is employed as Hunter to a Train of Wagons bound for the States Meeting with Captain Cook and four companies of U. S. Dragoons on Walnut Creek Mexicans in Trouble Kit Carson car- ries a letter for them to Santa Fe Indians on the route His safe Arrival Amijos' advance Guard massacred by the Texans The one Survivor The Retreat Kit Carson returns to Bent's Fort His Ad- ventures with the Utahs and narrow escape from Death The Tex- ans disarmed The Express Ride performed. IT has already appeared that Kit Carson was now at Bent's Fort ; also, that his occupation as a trapper of beaver had become unprofitable. His services were, however, immediately put into requisition by Messrs. Bent and St. Vrain, the proprietors of what was called Bent's Fort, which was a trading-post kept by those gentlemen. The position which he accepted was that of hunter to the Fort. This office he filled from that time with the most undeviating fidelity and prompti- tude for eight consecutive years. During all of this long period not a single word of disagreement passed between him and his employers, which fact shows better than mere words that his duty was faithfully and satis- factorily performed. It is but seldom that such a fact 168 " MONARCH OF THE PKA1K1ES." can be stated of any employee, no matter what the service. Here, however, was an example in which the nature of the employment would, of itself, at times present cause for discord, such as scarcity of game, bad luck, and men hungry in consequence. But Kit Car-- son was too skillful in his profession to allow such reasons to mar his fortunes. With the effort the game always was at hand, for it was not his custom to return from his hunts empty-handed. Of course, Kit Carson's duties were to supply the traders and their men with all the animal food they wanted, an easy task when game w r as plenty ; but it would often happen that bands of Indians, which were always loitering about the trading-post, w^ould precede him in the chase, thereby rendering his labors often- times very difficult. From sunrise to sunset, and not unfrequently during the night, he wandered over the prairies and mountains within his range in search of food, for the maintenance, sometimes, of forty men who composed the garrison of the Fort, and who were dependent on the skill of their hunter ; but rarely did he fail them. He knew, for hundreds of miles about him, the most eligible places to seek for game. During the eight years referred to, thousands of buffalo, elk, antelope, and deer fell at the crack of Kit Carson's rifle. Each day so added to his reputation that it is not to be wondered at, considering the practice of his previous life, that he became unrivaled as a hunter. His name spread rapidly over the Western Continent until, with the rifle, he was the acknowledged "Monarch of the Prairies." The wild Indians, accustomed to measure a man's greatness by the deeds w r hich he is capable of performing with powder and lead, were com- KIT AND HIS FAVORITE HORSE "APACHE. AN HONORED GUEST. 171 pletely carried away in their admiration of the man. Among the Arrapahoes, Cheyennes, Kiowas, and Caman- ches, Kit Carson was always an honored guest when- ever he chose to visit their lodges ; and many a night, while seated at their watch-fires, he has narrated to them the exciting scenes of the day's adventures, to which they have listened with eager attention and un- restrained delight. When arrayed in his rough hunt- ing costume, and mounted upon his favorite charger " Apache," a splendid animal, Kit Carson was a picture to behold. The buffalo were his favorite game, and well were they worthy of such a noble adversary. In the eyes of a sportsman, the buffalo is a glorious prey. To hunt them is oftentimes attended with great danger; and, while thus engaged, many a skillful man has yielded up his life for his temerity. The American bison or buffalo seems to demand at our hands a short episode from the narrative of Kit Carson's life. This animal has several traits of charac- ter peculiarly his own. If alarmed, he starts off almost instantly and always runs against the wind, his sense of smell appearing to be better than his eyesight. What is a most remarkable fact, a herd of buffalo, when graz- ing, always post and maintain a line of sentinels to warn the main body of the approach of danger. When a strange object comes within sight or smelling distance, these sentinels immediately give the alarm by tossing up their heads and tails and bellowing furiously. The whole herd instantly heed the warning and are soon in motion. Buffalo run with forelegs stiff, which fact, together with their ugly-looking humps and the low- ness of their heads, gives a rocking swing to their gait. If a herd, when in full motion, have to cross a road on 172 HUNTING THE BUFFALO. which wagons are traveling, they change their course but little ; and, it sometimes happens, that large bands will pass within a stone's throw of a caravan. During the early days of the Union Pacific Rail Road it was a common thing to shoot buffalo from the trains. At night the bands are quite systematic in forming their camps. In the center are placed the cows and calves ; while, to guard against the wolves, large numbers of which always follow them, they station on their out- posts, the old bulls. The age to which a buffalo may at- tain is not known ; but, it is certain that they are gen- erally long-lived when not prematurely cut off. When their powers of life begin to fade, they fall an easy prey to the small, carnivorous animals of the plains. The attempt has been made to domesticate and render them useful for agricultural purposes. Hitherto such efforts have invariably failed. When restrained of their free- dom, they are reduced to mere objects of curiosity. In hunting buffalo the most important matter for the attention of the hunter is to provide himself with a suitable horse. The best that can be selected is a trained Mexican or Indian pony. Their familiarity with the game and the prairies, over which the hunter must ride at full speed, renders these horses quite safe. On the other hand a green horse is sure to be terribly frightened when called upon to face these ugly-looking animals, and the rider will find he has his hands full to manage him without thinking of his game. One great danger to be apprehended is the being led into a prairie-dog town. Here a horse needs experience to carry his rider through with safety. Upon reaching the herd, the hunter dashes in at the cows, which are easily recognized by the fineness of their robes and BUFFALO HUNT. PAO* 173. - EXCITING SPORT. 173 their smaller forms. The white man hunter, of all weapons, prefers a revolver ; but the red man uses the lance, and bow and arrows, which he handles with remarkable dexterity. The place of election to make the deadly wound is just behind the fore shoulder, where the long, shaggy inane of the hump is intersect- ed by the short hair of the body. The death-wound being given, the blood gushes out in torrents, and the victim, after a few bounds, falls on her knees with her head bunting into the ground. If, by chance, a vital organ is not reached, the pain of the wound makes the stricken animal desperately courageous. She turns upon her pursuer with terrible earnestness, ready to destroy him. It is now that the horse is to be de- pended upon. If well trained, he will instantly wheel and place himself and rider out of harm's way ; but, woe to both horse and hunter if this is not done. The lives . of both are in imminent danger. In case the buffalo is killed, the hunter rides up, dismounts and makes his lariet fast to the horns of his game. He next proceeds to cut up the meat and prepare it for his pack animals which he should have near by. By their aid he easily carries it into camp. It would doubtless afford many a page of exciting interest could we carry the reader through all the va- ried scenes of the chase in which Kit Carson has been the principal actor. To transmit to our narrative a choice fight with the fierce old grizzly bear ; or, per- chance, a fine old buffalo bull turning on his destroyer with savage ferocity ; or, a wounded panther, with its inevitable accompaniment in the shape of a hand-to- hand encounter for dear life, each of such could not fail in giving interest to the general reader. We are 174 KIT CARSON MARRIED. forced, against our own conviction of the duty we owe the public as Kit Carson's chosen biographer, to puss by all such acts of his personal daring and triiftnph, be- cause of his own unwillingness to relate them for pub- lication. Notwithstanding our urgent requests, backed up by the advice and interference of friends, Kit Car- son was inflexibly opposed to relating such acts of him- self He was even more willing to speak of his failures, though such were few, rather than of his victories in the chase. While the description of these adventures could not fail to furnish useful and interesting data. most unfortunately, Kit Carson considered that they were uninteresting minutiae which pertained to the every-day business of his life, and no persuasion could induce him to enter upon their relation. Not so when he was entertaining some of the brave chiefs of the Indian nations, whose friendship he had won by his brave deeds. If they were his guests, or he himself theirs, then their delight to hear kindled a pride ^n his broast to relate. He knew that he would not by them be called a boaster. Before quitting the Mountains, Kit Carson married an Indian girl, to whom he was most devotedly at- tached. By this wife he had one child, a daughter. Soon after the birth of this child, his wife died. His daughter he watched over with the greatest solicitude. When she reached a suitable age, he sent her to St. Louis for the purpose of giving her the advantages of a liberal education. Indeed, most of Kit Carson's hard earnings, gained while he was a hunter on the Arkan- sas, were devoted to the advancement of his child. On arriving at maturity she married, and with her hus- band settled in California. INDIAN CUSTOMS. 177 The libertine custom of indulging in a plurality of wives, as adopted by many of the mountaineers, never received the sanction, in thought, word or action, of Kit Carson. His moral character may well be held up as an example to men whose pretensions to virtuous life are greater. Although he was continually sur- rounded by licentiousness, he proved true to her who had first gained his affections. For this honoring of virtue he is indebted, in a measure, to the sway which he held over the western Indian races; While their chiefs are seldom men of virtuous act or intent, they are high in their appreciation of, and just in their re- wards to those whose lives are patterns of honor and chastity. One of their ancient customs, well authen- ticated, was to honor the virtuous women of their tribe with sacred titles, investing them, in their blind belief, with power to call down the favor, in behalf of the people, of their Manitou, or Great Spirit. But every woman who aspired to this honor was required, upon a certain day in the year, to run the gauntlet of braves. This was sometimes a terrible scene. All the warriors of the tribe, arrayed in their fiercest war cos- tume and armed at every point with lance, bow and arrow, knife, tomahawk, etc., were drawn up under command of the principal chief, in single line. At the head of this line was placed a kind of chaplet, or crown, the possession of which by any woman was supposed to confer the power of necromancy or magic, rendering her able to heal diseases and to foretell events. The line having been formed, all of the young maidens of the tribe were drawn up in a body at the further ex- tremity, and any of them who aspired to the possession of the chaplet, was at liberty, having first uncovered 178 HORRIBLE BUTCHERY OF YOUNG GIELS. her back and breast as far as her waist, to march before the line of warriors, within ten paces of. their front, and, if she lived to reach it, take possession of the crown. On the other hand, it was the duty of any warrior, who knew aught by word or deed against the virtue of the advancing maiden, to kill her upon the spot. If one arrow was shot at her, the whole band instantly poured a flight of arrows into her bare and defenceless bosom until life was extinct. Again, it was the belief of the untutored savage that whatever warrior failed to make his knowledge apparent, if he possessed any, by sending his arrow at the aspirant, would always be an object of revenge by the Great Spirit, both here and hereafter ; and, that he would al- ways live in the hereafter, in sight of the Happy Hunt- ing Grounds, but never be allowed to enter them. This latter belief made it a rare thing for young girls to brave the attempt ; but, sometimes, the candidates were numerous, and the horrible butchery of the young girls which took place formed a terrible expose of their lewdness. To kill an innocent girl was equally a matter which would be forever avenged by the Great Spirit. The warm friendship which sprang up between Kit Carson and the proprietors of Bent's Fort, under whom he held his situation as Hunter, is a sufficient index of the gentlemanly conduct and amiability of heart evinced towards him on their part. The names of Bent and St. Vrain were known and respected far and near in the mountains, for, in generosity, hospitality, and native worth, they were men of perfect model. Mr. Bent was appointed, by the proper authority, the first Civil Governor of New Mexico, after that large GOVERNOR BENT, OF NEW MEXICO. 179 and valuable country was ceded to and came under the jurisdiction of the United States Government. He held this distinguished position, however, only a short time, for, in the -year 1847, he was most foully and treacher- ously murdered by the Pueblo Indians and Mexicans. A revolution had broken out among this turbulent people, and, in his endeavors to stem it, Governor Bent was frustrated. At last, being driven to his own house, he barricaded the doors and windows. The rascally rioters, after a severe contest, succeeded in breaking open his doors, and, having gained access to their vic- tim, murdered him in cold blood in the midst of his family. The only crime imputed by the mob against this benevolent and just man was, that he was an American. His untimely death, which was mourned by all the Americans who knew him, cast a settled gloom over the community in which he resided. The Mexicans were afterwards very penitent for the share they took in the committal of this black crime. Although several of the guilty party are still living, they have left the country ; for the mountaineers have not for- gotten the friend whom they esteemed and respected, and will avenge his death if ever the opportunity offers. Cerin St. Vrain, the surviving partner of this cele- brated trading firm, was equally noted. Upon the declaration of war between the United States and Mexico, St. Vrain took an active part on the side of his country, and, from his extensive knowledge of the Mexican character, was enabled to render important services. At the close of the war, he became exten- sively engaged in mercantile pursuits within the New Territory, and, by his untiring industry, amassed a large fortune. He was the first man who discovered and 180 COLONEL ST. VRAIN. recognized the superior skill of Kit Carson as a hunter ; and, for his subsequent success in life, Kit Carson was much indebted to him. Col. St. Vrain died a few years since at Moro, a New Mexican town eighteen miles from Fort Union, N. M., and in the Rocky Mountains. He died of apoplexy, at the ripe age of three-score years and ten, beloved far and near, and looked upon in the light of a father by all hunters and trappers. He was buried with military honors by the Eighth U. S. Cavalry. St. Vrain was one of the greatest pioneers the West ever saw, and was long the head and front of our great fur com- panies. Notwithstanding his rough experience, he was a polished gentleman in his manners and dealings. The writer was for years intimate with him, and attended him in his last sickness, but his modesty would never allow him to speak of his own life and exploits. As the reader can now easily compute, sixteen years had elapsed since Kit Carson commenced his exploits in the Rocky Mountains. During this long period, as fre- quently as once every year, he had sat down to a meal consisting of bread, vegetables, meat, coffee, tea, and sugar. When dining thus sumptuously, he considered himself as greatly favored with luxuries of the rarest grade. Few men can say, with Kit Carson : " During sixteen years my rifle furnished nearly every particle of food upon which I lived." Fewer can say, with equal truth, that " For many consecutive years I never slept under the roof of a house, or gazed upon the face of a white woman." It was after such an experience aswe have endeavored to paint by the simple tale of his life thus far, that Kit CARSON" VISITS THE UNITED STATES. 181 Carson longed once more to look upon and mingle with civilized people. For some time before he determined to visit the United States, this desire had taken posses- sion of his mind and had been growing stronger. The traders of the Fort were accustomed, yearly, to send into the States a train of wagons, for the purpose of transporting their goods. The opportunity, therefore, presented for Kit Carson to gratify his wish. In the spring of 1842, one of these caravans started, with which Kit Carson traveled as a supernumerary. When it arrived within the boundary lines of the State of Mis- souri, he parted from his compagnons de voyage and went in quest of his relatives and friends, whom now he had not seen for over sixteen years. The scenes of his boyhood days he found to be magically changed. New faces met him on all sides. The old log-cabin where his father and mother had resided was deserted, and its dilapidated walls were crumbling with decay. The once happy inmates were scattered over the face of the earth, while many of their voices were hushed in death. Kit Carson felt himself a stranger in a strange land the strong man wept. His soul could not brook either the change or the ways of the people. While he failed not to receive kindness and hospitality, to which his name alone was a sufficient passport among the noble-hearted Missourians ; nevertheless, he had fully allayed his curiosity, and, as soon as possible, bid adieu to these unpleasant recollections. He bent his steps towards St. Louis. In this city he remained ten days ; and, as it was the first time since he had reached man- hood that he had viewed a town of any magnitude, he was greatly interested. But ten days of sight-seeing wearied him. He resolved to return to his mountain 182 THE MASTER-MIND THE GIANT INTELLECT. home, where he could breathe the pure air of heaven, and where manners and customs conformed to his wild life and were more congenial to his tastes. He en- gaged passage upon the first steam-boat Avhich was bound up the Missouri River. We cannot resist the impulse which here struggles for utterance. Look upon that little steam-boat as it ascends the mighty Missouri, bearing in its bosom the man w r ho was destined to point out the hidden paths of the mighty West ; to mount and record the height of the loftiest peak of the American monster mountain chain ; to unfold the riches of the interior of a great and glorious empire to its possessors, and, finally, to conquer with his good sword, preparing the way for its annexation to his country, the richest soil and fairest land on earth, thus adding one more glorious star to the original thirteen of 1776 ; a star, too, of the very first magnitude, whose refulgent brightness shines clear, sparkling, and pure for the Truth of Sacred Writ and American Liberty. On the deck of that little steam- boat the two men the one the master-mind, the giant intellect, the man of research and scholastic strength, the scientific engineer ; the other, than whom his superior as an American mountaineer was not living- stood, uninterested spectators of each other, and each unconscious why they had been permitted to enter the same cabin. The Christian student of American his- tory cannot pass by this simple circumstance without seeing Heaven's wisdom in such a coincidence namely, Kit Carson, for the first time in sixteen years, bending his steps to his boyhood home, just as his six- teen years of mountaineer skill and experience were required by one of the master-workmen of American ' ' ' " /' MEETING OF FREMONT AND CARSON. 183 Engineering, about to enter upon the exploration of in- land North America. Kit Carson wandered over the boat, studying its mechanism, admiring the machinery, which, so like a thing of life, subserved the interests of human life ; watched with quiet reserve the faces and general ap- pearance of his fellow-passengers ; occasionally modestly addressed an acquaintance, for some present were known to him ; and, finally singled out from among the stran- gers a man on whose face he thought he discovered the marks of true courage, manhood and nobility of charac- ter. The impression which Kit Carson had thus re- ceived was nothing fleeting. The eagle eye, the fore- head, the form, the movements, the general features, the smile, the quiet dignity of the man, each and all of these attributes of his manhood had been carefully noted by the wary and hardy mountaineer, and had not failed to awaken in his breast a feeling of admi- ration and respect. While on this boat Kit Carson learned the fact that the man whom he had thus studied was Lieut. John C. Fremont of the U. S. corps of topo- graphical engineers ; also, that Lieutenant Fremont had been earnestly seeking Captain Drips, an experienced mountaineer, but that he had been disappointed in finding him. Upon learning this, Kit Carson fell into a deep reverie which lasted some little time, when, having brought it to a conclusion, he approached Lieu- tenant Fremont and modestly introducing himself, said : " Sir ! I have been some time in the mountains and think I can guide you to any point there you wish to reach. " Lieutenant Fremont's answer indicated his satisfac- tion in making the acquaintance which Kit Carson had 11 184 FREMONT'S FIRST EXPLORING EXPEDITION. offered him, and that he would make inquiries concern- ing his capabilities of performing the duty for. which he offered himself. The inquiries which the then lieutenant instituted, or, at least, may be supposed to have instituted, must have been favorable ; for, soon afterwards, Kit Carson was engaged by Colonel Fremont to act as guide to his first exploring expedition, at a salary of one hundred dollars per month. Upon arriving in Kansas the party prepared for a long and dangerous journey which lay before them. The objects of this expedition were to survey the South Pass, and take the altitude of the highest peaks of the Rocky Mountains, besides gather- ing all the collateral information w r hich they could. The party had been chiefly collected in St. Louis. It consisted of twenty-two Creole and Canadian voya- geurs ; Mr. Charles Preuss, a native of Germany, whose education -rendered him a master in the art of topo- graphical sketching, and towards whom Colonel Fre- mont has always extended high and just encomium ; Henry Brant, a son of Col. J. H. Brant of St. Louis, nineteen years of age ; young Randolph Benton, a son of Colonel Benton, twelve years of age ; Mr. L. Max- well, a mountaineer engaged as the hunter of the party ; and finally, Kit Carson, as guide, making, including the Commander of the Expedition, twenty-eight souls. On the 10th day of June, 1842, the party commenced their march. The daily routine usually observed on the march was as follows: At daybreak the camp was aroused, the animals led out and turned loose to graze ; breakfast about six o'clock, immediately after which the line of march was resumed ; at noon there was a halt of one or two hours; LIFE ON THE PRAIRIES. 185 the march was then again resumed and kept up until within an hour or so of sunset, when the order was usually given to encamp ; the tents were then pitched, horses hobbled and turned loose to graze, and the cooks prepared supper. At night all the animals were brought in and picketed, carts set for defence and guard mounted. The party had only accomplished a few miles of the march when they fell in with the buffalo. Before we pursue the narrative of Kit Carson's life we must re- deem our promise and allow Colonel Fremont to de- scribe his own impressions in his first Buffalo Hunt, in which Kit Carson and Mr. L. Maxwell were his com- panions and guides. Colonel Fremont says : "A few miles brought us into the midst of the buf- falo, swarming in immense numbers over the plains, where they had left scarcely a blade of grass standing. Mr. Preuss, w r ho was sketching at a little distance in the rear, had at first noted them as large groves of timber. In the sight of such a mass of life, the trav- eler feels a strange emotion of grandeur. We had heard from a distance a dull and confused murmuring, and, when we came in view of their dark masses, there was not one among us who did not feel his heart beat quicker. It was the early part of the day, when the herds were feeding ; and everywhere they were in mo- tion. Here and there a huge old bull was rolling in the grass, and clouds of dust rose in the air from vari- ous parts of the bands, each the scene of some obstinate fight. Indians and buffalo make the poetry and life of the prairie, and our camp was full of their exhilaration. In place of the quiet monotony of the march, relieved only by the cracking of the whip, and an 'avance done! 186 KIT CARSON UNHORSED. enfant de garce ! ' shouts and songs resounded from every part of the line, and our evening camp was always the commencement of a feast, which termina- ted only with our departure on the following morning. At any time of the night might be seen pieces of the most delicate and choicest meat, roasting en appolas, on sticks around the fire, and the guard was never without company. With pleasant w r eather and no enemy to fear, and abundance of the most excellent meat, and no scarcity of bread or tobacco, they were enjoying the oasis of a voyageur's life. Three cows were killed to-day. Kit Carson had shot one, and was continuing the chase in the midst of another herd, when his horse fell headlong, but sprang up and joined the flying band. Though considerably hurt, he had the good fortune to break no bones; and Maxwell, who was mounted on a fleet hunter, captured the run- away after a hard chase. He was on the point of shooting him, to avoid the loss of his bridle (a hand- somely mounted Spanish one), when he found that his horse was able to come up with him. Animals are frequently lost in this way ; and it is necessary to keep close watch over them, in the vicinity of the buffalo, in the midst of which they scour off to the plains, and are rarely taken. One of our mules took a sudden freak into his head, and joined a neighboring band to-day. As we are not in a condition to lose horses, I sent sev- eral men in pursuit, and remained in camp, in the hope of recovering him ; but lost the afternoon to no pur- pose, as we did not see him again. " As we were riding quietly along the bank, a grand herd of buffalo, some seven or eight hundred in num- ber, came crowding up from the river, where they had A BUFFALO CHASE. 187 been to drink, and commenced crossing the plain slowly, eating as they went. The wind was favorable ; the coolness of the morning invited to exercise ; the ground was apparently good, and the distance across the prairie (two or three miles) gave us a fine oppor- tunity to charge them before they could get among the river hills. It was too fine. a prospect for a chase to be lost ; and, halting for a few moments, the hunters were brought up and saddled, and Kit Carson, Maxwell and I started together. They were now somewhat less than half a mile distant, and we rode easily along until within about three hundred yards, when a sudden agi- tation, a wavering in the band, and a galloping to and fro of some which were scattered along the skirts, gave us the intimation that we were discovered. We started together at a hand gallop, riding steadily abreast of each other, and here the interest of the chase became so engrossingly intense that we were sensible to noth- ing else. We were now closing upon them rapidly, and the front of the mass was already in rapid motion for the hills, and in a few seconds the movement had communicated itself to the whole herd. "A crowd of bulls, as usual, brought up the rear, and every now and then some of them faced about, and then dashed on after the band a short distance, and turned and looked again, as if more than half inclined to stand and fight. In a few moments, how- ever, during which we had been quickening our pace, the rout was universal, and we were going over the ground like a hurricane. When at about thirty yards, we gave the usual shout (the hunter's battle cry) and broke into the herd. We entered on the side, the mass giving way in every direction in their heedless 188 DANGEROUS SPORT. course. Many of the bulls, less active and less fleet than the cows, paying no attention to the ground, and occupied solely with the hunter, were precipitated to the earth with great force, rolling over and over with the violence of the shock, and hardly distinguishable in the dust. We separated on entering, each singling out his game. " My horse was a trained hunter, famous in the West under the name of Provean, and, with his eyes flashing, and the foam flying from his mouth, sprang on after the cow like a tiger. In a few moments he brought me alongside of her, and, rising in the stirrups, I fired at the distance of a yard, the ball entering at the ter- mination of the long hair, and passing near the heart. She fell headlong at the report of the gun, and check- ing my horse, I looked around for my companions. At a little distance, Kit was on the ground, engaged in tying his horse to the horns of a cow which he was preparing to cut up. Among the scattered bands, at some distance below, I caught a glimpse of Maxwell; and while I was looking, a light wreath of white smoke curled away from his gun, from which I was too far to hear the report. Nearer, and between me and the hills, towards which they were directing their course, was the body of the herd, and giving my horse the rein, we dashed after them. A thick cloud of dust hung upon their rear, which filled my mouth and eyes, and nearly smothered me. In the midst of this I could see noth- ing, and the buffalo were not distinguishable until within thirty feet. They crowded together more densely still as I came upon them, and rushed along in such a compact body, that I could not obtain an en- trance the horse almost leaping upon them. In a few A PRAIRIE-DOG VILLAGE. 189 moments the mass divided to the right and left, the horns clattering with a noise heard above everything else, and my horse darted into the opening. Five or six bulls charged on us as we dashed along the line, but were left far behind, and singling out a cow, I gave her my fire, but struck too high. She gave a tremen- dous leap, and scoured on swifter than before. I reined up my horse, and the band swept on like a torrent, and left the place quiet and clear. Our chase had led us into dangerous ground. A prairie-dog village, so thickly settled that there were three or four holes in every twenty yards square, occupied the whole bottom for nearly two miles in length. Looking around, I saw one of the hunters, nearly out of sight, and the long dark line of our caravan crawling along, three or four miles distant." The trail which the party left behind them after- wards formed the emigrant road to California via Fort Laramie, Salt Lake, etc. On reaching Fort Laramie, Fremont found a fearful state of affairs existing among the Sioux Indians, through whose country his route lay. An encounter had recently taken place between a war-party belonging to the Sioux nation and a party of trappers and Snake Indians. In the fight the In- dians had been worsted and several of their braves killed. To revenge themselves the Sioux chieftains had collected their warriors ; and, while the nation was encamped to the number of one thousand lodges, they had gone forth to seek and punish their enemies. At Fort Laramie the exploring party met several trappers and friendly Indians who used their utmost endeavors to dissuade Colonel Fremont from venturing into such inevitable danger. There was but one opin- 190 READY AND WILLING TO FACE DANGER. ion expressed, viz. : that, as sure as he entered upon the journey, the entire party would be massacred. To all these admonitions and warnings Colonel Fremont had but one reply. His government had directed him to perform a certain duty. The obstacles which stood in his way, it was his duty to use every means at his command to surmount; therefore, in -obedience to his instructions, he was determined to continue his march. Finally he said that he would accomplish the object or die in the attempt, being quite sure that if the expedi- tion failed by being cut to pieces, a terrible retribution would be in store for the perpetrators of the act. Kit Carson, his guide, openly avowed that the future looked dark and gloomy, but he was delighted to hear this expression from his commander. He now felt that he had a man after his own heart to depend on, and should danger or inevitable death be in store for them, he was ready and willing to face either with him. In order to be prepared for the worst, Kit Carson felt it his duty, considering the dangers apprehended, to make his will, thereby showing that if he had to fight he was ready to count it his last battle. Colonel Fremont resumed his journey, and very fortunately arrived at the South Pass of the Rocky Mountains without, in any way, be- ing annoyed with Indians, not even meeting any on the route. He had now reached the field where his chief labors were to commence. Without loss of time he set ear- nestly about his work, making and recording such ob- servations as he deemed to be essential, and examining and exploring the country. Having finished this part of his labors, the ascent of the highest peak of the mountains was commenced. The length of the journey CLIMBING MOUNTAINS. 191 had jaded the animals. It was very difficult to procure game. The men had undergone such severe hardships that their spirits had become almost worn out. The daily fare now was dried buffalo meat. This was about the consistency of a pine stick ; and, in taste, resembled a piece of dried bark. Besides these rather uncomfort- able prospects, the expedition stood in constant fear of an attack by the Indians. It was now in the country of the Blackfeet ; and, only a short distance from the encampment, at the foot of the mountain, there was one of their forts. In the face of all these obstacles, sufficiently formidable to have deterred most com- manders, the mountain party was detailed, being four- teen in number, including Fremont. A man named Bernier was left in command of the camp which had been made by felling forest trees in a space about forty feet in diameter, using the trunks to form a breastwork. The camp was thus concealed by the trees and their foliage. It was well calculated for defence, and a few determined men could have maintained it against almost any Indian force. On the 12th day of August the mountain party left the camp. It was fifteen in number. On the 14th of August some of the party reached an elevation at which the barometer stood 19.401. On the 15th some of the party were sent back. Kit Carson had com- mand of this party. The remainder consisted of Col- onel Fremont, Mr. Preuss, Basil Lajeunesse, Clement Lambert, Janesse and Descoteaux. The day previous Kit Carson had alone climbed one of the highest peaks of the main ridge, from which he had a full view of the highest peak, which rose about eight or ten hun- dred feet above him. The arduous labors of the 14th 192 A PERILOUS JOURNEY. August had determined the commander to ascend no higher. Instead of carrying out this intention, after Kit Carson with his party had set out, Fremont made one more effort to climb the highest peak, and suc- ceeded. This peak was found, by barometrical observation, to be thirteen thousand jive hundred and seventy feet above the waters of the Gulf of Mexico. It bears the name of the Great Explorer, being called Fremont's Peak. The terrible suffering, privation and discouragements to which this brave band were subjected, would have disheartened most men, but to Fremont there was no such word as fail. The attempt to visit Goat Island, by which he very nearly lost many of the most im- portant results of the expedition, is but a fair sample of hardships which they were forced to endure. In an open linen boat, these hardy adventurers run the rapids of the La Platte through three successive cata- racts, and between perpendicular rocks of great hight, which frequently approached each other so closely overhead, as to form a kind of tunnel over the stream, which foamed along at a fearful rate, half choked up with fallen fragments. At one of these rapids the boat was overturned, and it required all their strength and skill to prevent its being staved to pieces on the sharp rock. It was a fearful passage, and one which will never be forgotten by those whose fortune it was to be connected with that expedition.* The return trip was now commenced, all of the ob- jects of the expedition having been successfully ac- complished. The party again reached Fort Laramie in * See Bigelow's Life of Fremont. \ A PERILOUS PASSAGE DOWN THE PLATTE. CARSON'S SECOND MARRIAGE. 195 the month of September, 1842. Kit Carson had served in the double capacity as a hunter and guide. It is sufficient to say of the manner in which he performed his duties, that he won the friendship of John C. Fre- mont, and ever after occupied a prominent and perma- nent place in his esteem. At Laramie, Kit Carson's labors were done. There he bid his commander good- by, and set out for New Mexico. Fremont returned to the United States in safety. Thus terminated the first of his great explorations. Kit Carson's Indian wife had long since been dead. In the month of February, 1843, he married a Mexican lady by the name of Senora Josepha Jarimilla. Of this lady it is sufficient to say, that for her many vir- tues and personal beauty she was justly esteemed by a large circle of friends. By this wife Kit Carson had three children, to whom he was devotedly attached. In the following April, Kit Carson was employed as hunter to accompany Bent and St. Vrain's train of wagons, while on their journey to the United States. On arriving at Walnut Creek, which is about two-thirds of the distance across the Plains from Santa Fe, Kit and his companions came upon the encampment of Captain Cook, belonging to the United States Army who was in command of four companies of United States Dragoons. Captain Cook .informed Carson's party that in his rear was traveling a train of wagons belonging to General Arrnijo, a wealthy Mexican. For the purpose of insuring protection to this richly- freighted caravan while passing through an Indian country, the Mexican wagon-master in charge had hired one hundred men. There were rumors, currently re- ported at that time and believed, that a large body of 196 MEXICANS IN TROUBLE. Texans were waiting on the road to plunder and mur- der this wagon party, and thus retaliate the treatment Armijo had been guilty of in the case of the " famous Muir Prisoners;" but, in order that this should not hap- pen in Territory belonging to the United States, the War Department had ordered Captain Cook and the dragoons to' guard the property as far as the fording of the Arkansas River, which was then the boundary line between the two countries. The Mexicans had become alarmed for fear they might be attacked on parting with the United States soldiers; so, on meeting with Kit Carson, who was well known to them, they offered three hundred dollars if he would carry a letter to Armijo, who was then Governor of New Mexico, and lived at Santa Fe. This letter apprised the General of the danger to which his men and property were ex- posed, and asked for assistance to be immediately sent to them. Carson accepted the offer, and in company with Owens, another mountaineer, he set out on his express ride. In the course of a few days he reached Bent's Fort, where his companion concluded not to go on with him. At the Fort, Kit Carson was informed that the Utah Indians, then hostile, were scattered along his intended route. He was not, however, turned from his duty by this danger, but he resumed his jour- ney immediately. At this last-named place his friend, Mr Bent, kindly furnished him with a fleet and mag- nificent horse, which he led, so that, should he find himself in peril, he might mount this fresh animal and make his escape. By watching for signs and being continually on the alert, Kit Carson discovered the Indians and their vil- lage without exposing his own person to view. He ini- FEARFUL MASSACRE BY TEXANS. 197 mediately secreted himself in an out-of-the-way-place and remained until the coming on of darkness ; when he passed safely by the camp of the savages. In the course of a few days he reached Taos and handed his dispatch to the Alcalde of the town to be forwarded to Santa Fe. As had been previously agreed upon, he waited here for an answer with which he was to return. At Taos, Carson was informed that Armijo had already sent out one hundred Mexican soldiers to seek his cara- van, and that the General himself, in command of six hundred more, was soon to follow after. It was after- wards learned that this unfortunate band of one hun- dred men went as far as the Arkansas River, but could not find any traces of the train of wagons, it not hav- ing completed that much of its journey ; therefore, they commenced to retrace their steps, but had pro- ceeded only a few miles, when they were suddenly attacked by the Texans, who succeeded in massacring all but one man. This survivor had succeeded in catching, in the heat of the battle, a fully equipped Texan horse which was loose. Mounting him he made off in the direction of Santa Fe ; and, at Cold Springs came upon the camp of Armijo, to whom he reported proceedings. The narration of this sad story so damp- ened the courage of the General and his men as to cause them to make a precipitous retreat. The spot where this slaughter took place ha"s since gone by the name of " battle ground," and many are the bleached human bones that are still to be found there. It was during Carson's stay for four days in Taos, that Armijo and his small army had started out in quest of the enemy ; but, before his departure, he had received the letter and directed an answer to be sent, 198 A NOBLE ACT. thinking, perhaps, that Kit Carson might reach the train, even if he himself did not On the answer com- ing into Carson's hands, he selected a Mexican boy to ac- company him and was quickly on the road again. They had left Taos two days' journey behind them, and had reached the River Trinchera (for they were traveling via the Sangero de Christo Pass and Bent's Fort) when they unexpectedly met four Indian warriors. Kit Car- son immediately recognized them as hostile Utahs. As yet the red men were some distance off; and, while Kit and his companion stood meditating what was best to be done, the latter spoke and said to the former : " I am a boy and perhaps the Indians will spare my life. At any rate yours is much more valuable than mine, therefore mount the horse you are leading, without delay, and make your escape." Carson at first thought this advice to be good, and was about act- ing on it, when it struck his equally generous heart, how cowardly such a course would be to desert a youth who had in the hour of peril so manfully borne himself. Turning to the boy he thanked him and added that " he could not and would not desert him." He said " we must stand our ground together, and if we have to die, let us take with us each his warrior." While this colloquy was going on, the foremost of the Indians came up. He approached Carson with the air of a man sure of an easy victory, and, with a bland smile, proffered one hand in friendship, while, with the other, he grasped Kit's rifle. A powerful blow from the fist of the latter released his hold and instantly laid him sprawling upon the ground. The other In- dians, seeing the fate of their companion, hastened to his rescue. When they reached talking distance, Kit, ARMIJO'S CARAVAN SAFE. 199 standing with his rifle brought to his shoulder, informed them that, upon the first hostile demonstration they made, he and his companion would fire. The Indians commenced shaking their priming into the pans of their flint lock guns, and, while doing so, talked loud and threatened to perform a great many things. This was a mere ruse to intimidate Kit and his companion and throw them off their guard. It was, however, well understood, and operated to make them only the more vigilant. This endeavor to draw off Kit's attention was continued in various ways, but, finally seeing the determined posture of their opponent, they grew weary of the game, and, at last departed. The journey was now resumed. After five days of hard traveling, Kit and his companion entered Bent's Fort, without further molestation. Here Kit Carson learned that the Texans had been caught by Captain Cook and his dragoons in United States Territory, and had been disarmed. This had immediately relieved the conductors of the train from all anxiety. They had, consequently, continued their route, not thinking a stop at Bent's Fort necessary as had been anticipated. General Armijo's letter of instruction was, accordingly, left by Carson with Mr. Bent, who promised to forward it to Santa Fe by the first favorable opportunity. To pursue and overtake the wagons would be nothing but labor thrown away. All danger had disappeared. 200 CARSON VISITS FREMONT'S CAMP. OHAPTEE VIII. Kit Carson visits Fremont's Camp Goes on the Second Exploring Ex- pedition The Necessary Arrangements Trip to Salt Lake Explo- rations there Carson is dispatched to Fort Hall for Supplies Their Operations at Salt Lake The Great Island The Journey to the Columbia River in Oregon Incidents on the Route Klamath Lake The Journey to California The Trials and Privations met with while crossing the Sierra Nevada Mountains Mr. Preuss is lost but finds the Party again Arrival at Sutler's Fort in a Destitute Condi- tion Two of the Party become deranged The Route on the Return Trip Mexicans come into their Camp asking Aid and Protection Indian Depredations Carson and Godey start on a Daring Adven- ture The Pursuit The Thieves overtaken These Two White Men attack Thirty Indians The Victory Horses retaken The Return to Camp One of their Companions killed The Journey continued Arrival at Bent's Fort The " Fourth of July" Dinner. A FEW days before Kit Carson's arrival at Bent's Fort, Colonel Fremont had passed by and had informed the traders there, that he was bound on another Explor- ing Expedition. Having finished up his business with the Mexicans, Kit thought he would like to see his old commander once again. Accordingly, he started on his trail ; and, after seventy miles of travel, came up with him. The meeting proved to be mutually agreeable. Although Kit Carson had made this visit solely from his desire to again see his old commander, and not with a view of joining his second expedition, Colonel Fremont insisted so strongly upon having Kit accompany him, that he acquiesced in doing so. ENROLLED FOR SECOND EXPEDITION. 201 For Colonel Fremont, Kit Carson had the greatest admiration. He knew, as well as any man living, his bravery, his talents and the many splendid qualities of his mind and heart. The question will naturally arise, did Kit Carson endorse the political creed upon which Colo- nel Fremont accepted the nomination for the Presidency of the United States ? The best answer, and the one which is true, will be : Kit Carson considered it one of the highest honors and greatest blessings to be a citi- zen of the United States. He was willing to incur any danger for his country's good, even if the sacrifice of his life was the alternative. He spent all his life in the wilds of America, where news was always as scarce an article, as luxuries of the table and fireside, and where the political strifes of factions and parties were not known. The inference will therefore be plainly apparent, that his curiosity did not lead him to exam- ine very attentively the minute workings of political machinery. He was not a man to be swayed by friend- ship, from performing any act which the interests of his country seemed to require at his hands. Soon after Kit Carson was again enrolled under the command of Colonel Fremont, he received orders to re- turn to Bent's Fort and purchase some mules of which the party stood in need. Mules are valuable animals in new and mountainous countries. They are often the only beast of burden which can be successfully used in crossing the wild mountains. Being more sure-footed and more able to endure great fatigue than the horse, in such expeditions they become absolutely necessary. While he was absent on this duty, the expedition jour- neyed first to Soda Springs, and thence on to St. Train's Fort, which was located on the South Fork of the Platte. 12 202 ORDERED TO FORT HALL. At this point the expedition was joined by Major Fitz- patrick, with a command of forty men which he had enrolled, under orders, to assist in the exploration. When Kit Carson had rejoined the party, the arrange- ments for the arduous task in view were nearly complete. Colonel Fremont divided his forces, sending one division, with most of the camp equipage, on the more direct route. This division was placed under the com- mand of Major Fitzpatrick. The other division, under the command of Colonel Fremont, consisting of a squad of fifteen men and his guide Kit Carson, struck out up Thompson's Fork. The object of this expedition had in view by the government was, to have Colonel Fre- mont connect his explorations of the preceding year with the coast surveys of Commander Wilkes on the Pacific. This would give the data for making a correct map of the interior of the wild lands of the continent. From Thompson's Fork Colonel Fremont's division inarched to the Cache la Poudre River, and thence to the plains of Laramie until they came to the North Fork of the Platte. This river they crossed below the North Park, and bent their way to the sweet water, reaching it at a point about fifteen miles below the Devil's Gate. From this point they traveled almost the same road which is now used bv emigrants and / which leads to Soda Springs on Beaver River. It had been decided by Fremont to go to the Great Salt Lake and accomplish its exploration. He therefore started for that direction; but, before 'doing so, ordered Kit Carson to proceed to Fort Hall and obtain such sup- plies as were required. After procuring these necessi- ties, Kit Carson, with one companion and his pack EXPLORING SALT LAKE. 203 animals, set out on the return from Fort Hall and eventually found Fremont on the upper end of Salt Lake. From here the party journeyed around to the east side of the lake, a distance of about twenty miles. At this spot they obtained a good view of the lake and its adjacent scenery. Before him, and in bold relief, stood out everything which the explorer desired to examine, even to one of the several islands which are located in the midst of this wonderful collection of saline waters. To this isolated land Fremont was resolved to go. Among the rest of the forethought supplies, there was an India-rubber boat. This was ordered to be made ready for a trip to the island early the following day. The next morning, after the India-rubber boat had been put in order, Colonel Fremont started, taking Carson and three others as companions. The dis- tance from the main land to the island is computed to be about three leagues, hence the pull at the oars, for landsmen unaccustomed to such kind of work, was no small task. However a landing upon the island was safely accomplished, the boat made fast and the investigations commenced. After examin- ing most of the island without finding even a spring of water on it, it was determined to ascend the great hill which was the highest elevation- on it. The party were not long in reaching the summit, where they found a shelving rock, on which they cut a cross, their names and the date as signs to after visitors, should any such follow in their footsteps, that they had been the first persons who had ever, within the knowledge of man, been on that island. The day having been far spent in their labors, orders 201 KEACII KLAMATH LAKE. were given to camp on the island for the night. On the morrow they departed for the main land. When they had accomplished about one league, being one- third of the distance, the clouds suddenly gathered and threatened a storm. Just as this danger impended, the air which acted in giving buoyancy to the boat, by some accident, began to escape. A man was immedi- ately stationed at the bellows and it required his con- stant aid to supply the portion which steadily escaped. Colonel Fremont then ordered the men to pull for their lives and try thus to escape the danger of the impending storm. In this instance, as indeed in every hour of peril, an all-seeing Providence guided them in safety to the shore. Soon after they arrived, the storm came on with such force that it caused the water of the lake, according to the natural water-mark, to rise ten feet in one hour. The party soon after recommenced their march and proceeded some distance up the Bear River. Crossing it, they went to the Malade and thence on until they reached Fort Hall. Here they met with the division under Fitzpatrick and made a short stay. Once more Colonel Fremont started with his small party in advance of his main body. He marched about eight days' journey ahead, Fitzpatrick following up his trail with the larger division. At this time the expe- dition was journeying in the direction of the mouth of the Columbia River. In due time they arrived safely at the river Dalles. Here they made another brief halt. Colonel Fremont left Kit Carson in com- mand of this camp, while he, w r ith a small party, pro- ceeded to Vancouver's Island and purchased some pro- visions. On his return he found that the whole party ENCOUNTER TERRIBLE SNOW-STORMS. 207 had become consolidated. The command now jour- neyed to Klamath Lake, in Oregon, a fine sheet of water, thirty miles long and twelve wide, bordered by timbered ridges, with an occasional belt of tule. Excellent bunch-grass, with bushes and small trees, abound in the vicinity. The descriptions of all these journeys have already been given to the public in sev- eral forms, all, however, based upon Colonel Fremont's reports made to the United States Government. It would be superfluous, therefore, for us to fill up the pages of the life of Kit Carson with matter already published beyond the occurrences appertaining to him. Having finished the observations upon Klamath Lake, the expedition started for California. The route led through a barren and desolate country, rendering game scarce. As the command drew near to the Sierra Ne- vada Mountains, they were found to be entirely cov- ered with deep snow throughout the entire range of vision. At this time the provisions had commenced giving out. Game was so scarce that it could not be depended on. The propositions which presented them- selves at this crisis were to cross the mountains or take the fearful chance of starving to death. Crossing the mountains, terrible though the alternative, was the choice of all. It was better than inactivity and cer- tain death. On arriving at the mountains the snow was found to be about six feet 'deep on a level. The first task was to manufacture snow-shoes for the entire party. By the aid of these foot appendages, an advance party was sent on to explore the route and to determine how far a path would have to be broken for the animals. This party reached a spot from whence they could see their way clear, and found that the path 208 FEARFUL SUFFERING. for the animals would be three leagues in length. The advance party also saw, in the distance, the green valley of the Sacramento and the coast- range of mountains. Kit Carson was the first man to recognize these, to the snow-bound travelers desirable localities, although it was now seventeen years since he had last gazed upon them. The advance party then returned to their friends in the rear, and reported their proceedings. All were delighted on learning that they had one man among them, who knew where they were. The business of making the road was very laborious. The snow had to be beaten compact with mallets. It was fifteen days before the party succeeded in reaching, with a few of their animals, a place where the heavy work of the route was ended. During this time, many of their mules had starved to death, and the few remaining were driven to such an extreme by want of food, that they devoured one another's tails, the leather on the pack saddles, and, in fact, they would try to eat every- thing they could get into their mouths. The suffer- ing of the men had been as severe as had ever fallen to the lot of any mountaineer present. Their provis- ions were all used and they were driven to subsist upon the mules as they died from hunger. But commander and all bore these terrible trials in an exemplary manner. An incident is related by Colonel Fremont in which Kit Carson enjoyed a cold bath, which occurred during this terrible inarch : " This was our most difficult day. We were forced off the ridges by the quantity of snow among the timber, and obliged to take to the mountain- sides, where, occasionally, rocks and a southern expos- ure afforded us a chance to scramble along. But these FREMONT AND CARSON TAKE AN ICY BATH. were steep and slippery with snow and ice ; and the tough evergreens of the mountain impeded our way, tore our skins and exhausted our patience. Some of us had the misfortune to wear moccasins with parfleche soles, so slippery that we could not keep our feet, and generally crawled across the snow beds. Axes and mauls were necessary to-day, to make a road through the snow. Going ahead with Carson to reconnoitre the road, we reached in the afternoon the river which made the outlet of the lake. Carson sprang over, clear across a place where the stream was compressed among the rocks, but the parfleche sole of my moccasins glanced from the icy rock and precipitated me into the river. It was some few seconds before I could recover myself in the current, and Carson thinking me hurt jumped in after me, and we both had an icy bath. We tried to search awhile for my gun, which had been lost in the fall, but the cold drove us out, and making a large fire on the bank, after we had partially dried ourselves, w r e went back to meet the camp. We afterwards found that the gun had been slung under the ice which lined the banks of the creek." It was while undergoing such experience as we have endeavored to narrate that the characters of men show forth in their true light and can be fully analyzed. John C. Fremont never was found wanting in times such as tried men's hearts. He was worthy of the trust reposed in him. His was no ordinary command. The men he had to deal with, in their line, had no su- periors on the American Continent ; yet, he proved a match for any one of them, and gained from them the name of being a good mountaineer, an encomium they are not prone to bestow lightly. 210 SCENE OF THE FIRST GOLD-MINE. The party now commenced descending the moun- tains. On reaching the valley beneath, Fremont, tak- ing Kit Carson and six of the men, pushed on in ad- vance, in order to reach Sutter's Fort, where he would be able to purchase provisions. Fitzpatrick was left in charge of the main party, with orders to make easy marches. The second day after this division was made, Mr. Preuss, Fremont's assistant, accidentally got lost. His friends began making search for him. This failing, they traveled on slowly, fired guns and used every means in their power to let their whereabouts be known to him. After wandering about for four days, to the surprise and joy of his companions, he came into camp. During his absence he had subsisted on acorns and roots, and, as a matter of course, was nearly exhausted, both in body and mind. Three days after Mr. Preuss was restored to them, Fremont, with the advance party, reached Sutter's Fort. He and his party were very hospitably received. They were entertained with the best the post could furnish, by its kind-hearted proprie- tor. Never did men more deserve such treatment. The condition of all was about as miserable as it could well be imagined, for men who retained their hold on life. It was at Sutter's Fort, as most of our readers will remember, that the great gold-mines of California first received their kindling spark, the discovery of that precious metal having been made there. While some men were digging a mill-race the alluring deposit first appeared. This event has made the Fort world- renowned. At the time we describe Fremont on his second ex- pedition, nothing whatever was known of the immense fields of treasure over which he and his men daily FROM WANT TO LUXURY. 211 walked, although, for many years previous to the dis- covery being made, the mountaineers had trapped all the rivers in that vicinity, and on their banks had herded their animals for months together. They had drank thousands of times from the pure water as it flowed in the river's channel, and, no doubt, frequently their eyes had penetrated through it until they saw the sand beneath in which, perchance, the sparkling specks may have occasionally allured them sufficiently to recall the proverb that " all is not gold that glitters." The writer once made inquiry of one of these moun- taineers who had spent two summers in the manner narrated above near and at Sutter's Fort, some twenty years since. He was asked whether he ever saw there anything in the shape of gold which in any way aroused his suspicions ? His reply was : " Never. And had I, it would have been only for a brief space of time, as finally I should have been certain that I was deluded and mistaken, without there had been the Eagle of our country stamped upon it." Provisions were immediately obtained at the Fort and carried to Fitzpatrick and his party. Great diffi- culty had now to be encountered to prevent the men from losing their lives by the sudden change from want to comparative luxury. Notwithstanding the utmost care was taken, some of the party lost their reason. The hardships of the journey had proved too much for them. Fitzpatrick and the main body arrived at the Fort in a few days, where they were likewise welcomed by its hospitable and generous proprietor, Captain Sut- ter. His name in California has ever been but another term for kindness and sympathy for the unfortunate. This expedition, in one respect only, can be called un- 212 TWO OF THE PARTY BECOME DERANGED. fortunate. When the terrible sufferings of the com- mander and his men have been named, the catalogue of misfortune is ended. Its results, grand and glorious, have immortalized the name of every man who as- sisted, in any way, to accomplish it. " I belonged to the several Exploring Expeditions of John C. Fremont" is the key-note to the respect and homage of the American nation ; the truth would be equally real, if we add, to the whole civilized world. Every heart which beats with admiration for the heroic, or which is capable of appreciating the rich contributions to the sciences, direct resultants from their terrible sufferings, has thrilled with delight when possessed of the history which records the brilliant achievements of these Ex- ploring Parties. The band started from the little town of Kansas on the twenty-ninth day of May, 1843. It returned to the United States in August, 1844. After traveling seventeen hundred miles, it reached, September sixth, Salt Lake. On the fourth day of November it reached Fort Vancouver, on the Columbia River. On the sixth day of March, 1844, it reached Sutter's Fort in the destitute condition already explained. The dis- tance from Fort Hall by the route taken is about two thousand miles. The party remained at Slitter's Fort until the twenty-fourth day of March, or as Kit Carson expresses the time from his memory, the expedition remained at this place about one month. At the expi- ration of this time, the party was sufficiently recruited to be ready for their return journey, which they com- menced in April, 1844. Just previous to their taking leave of Mr. Sutter, two of the company became deranged, owing to the privations and fasting to which RETURNED TO THE UNITED STATES. 213 they had been obliged to submit before being ushered into a land of plenty. They had indulged appetite too freely, and brought on one of those strange revolu- tions in the brain's action which never fails to excite the pity of friend and foe. The first warning which the party had that one of the men was laboring under a disordered intellect occurred in the following man- ner. Early in the morning the man suddenly started from his sleep and began to ask his companions where his riding animal was gone. During this time it was by him, but he did not know it. Unknown to the rest of the party he started off soon after in search of his imaginary animal. As soon as his absence became known to Fremont, he surmised the truth and sent persons in all directions to hunt for him. They searched the neighboring country for many miles and made inquiries of all the friendly Indians they chanced upon, but failed to discover him. Several days of delay was caused by this most unhappy circumstance. Finally, it becoming necessary for the party to depart without him, word was left with JVJr. Sutter to continue the hunt. He did so most faithfully ; and, by his ex- ertions, some time after the party had set out on the return trip, the maniac was found and kept at the Fort until he had entirely recovered. He was then, on the first opportunity, provided with a passage to the United States. On their homeward-bound journey, the party fol- lowed up the valley of the San Joaquin, crossing over the Sierra Nevada and coast-range of mountains at a point where they join and form a beautiful low pass. They continued on from here close under the coast range until they struck the Spanish Trail. This they 214 ATTACKED BY HOSTILB SAVAGES. followed to the Mohave River. That stream, it will be recollected, was an old friend of Kit Carson's. The reader will recall the many times he had caught beaver out of its waters. They followed the trail up the course of the river to where it leaves it. At this point an event occurred which somewhat retarded their progress, relieving the monotony of the route and somewhat changing their plans. Soon after the camp had been formed, they were visited by a Mexican man and boy ; the one named Andreas Fuentes, the other Pablo Hernandez. They informed Fremont that they belonged to a party of Mexican traders w r hich had come from New Mexico. They said that six of them, including in this number two women who acted as cooks, had been left by their friends in charge of a band of horses. The rest of the party were absent trafficking. The party of six thus left to watch the horses, consisted of Santiago Giacome, Andreas Fuentes and wife, and Pablo Hernandez, to- gether with his father and mother. They were endeav- oring to find better grazing for their animals. For this purpose they had penetrated the country as far as they dared ; and, at about eighty miles from the camp of Fremont, had resolved to wait for their friends. Fuen- tes and the boy Pablo were on guard over the animals when their camp was attacked by hostile savages. The attacking band was about thirty in number. Their principal object was to seize the horses. To effect this the more easily, they saluted the little band with a flight of arrows as they advanced. Fuentes and Pablo now heard Giacome warning them to start the horses and run for it. Both were mounted. They obeyed the directions of Giacome, and with the en- CARSON AND GODEY TO THE RESCUE. 215 tire band of horses charged boldly into the midst of the Indians, regardless of their weapons. The charge succeeded in breaking their line, through which Fuentes and Pablo boldly dashed after their animals. The In- dians deferred the chase to attend to a more bloody purpose. Having put sixty miles between them and the site of the attack, they left their horses and started in search of their main body. This search led them into Fremont's camp. Fuentes feared that the worst had overtaken his wife. Pablo already looked upon himself as an orphan boy. He doubted not that the bloody savages had murdered both his father and mother. It was a sad picture to witness their grief. But Kit Carson could not do so unmoved. The heart of such grief has ever awakened his earnest sympathy. His sympathy, too, has never been of a wordy nature. He volunteered to go with Fuentes and make an at- tempt to deliver the captives, if such they should prove, or to avenge their death, if that became the sad alternative. Fuentes had left the horses at a spring of water, well known to Carson. There he had found signs of white men which had led him into Fremont's camp. There was no difficulty for Carson to find the spring. The whole company therefore traveled to the spring, which they reached early the next morning, distant about thirty miles from their last camp. The horses were not to be seen. A short examination of signs soon re- vealed to Carson and Godey that the two Mexicans had been followed by the Indians, and that they had come upon the horses shortly after they had left them. Of course therefore they had captured and driven them off. Carson and Godey were determined to make one 216 A DON QUIXOTIC ADVENTURE. effort to punish the rascals. They started, taking Fu- entes with them, upon the trail of the Indians. The chase was a severe one, as, in the judgment of the mountaineers, the Indians would not make a short trail after acquiring so much booty. The horse which Fu- entes rode, most unfortunately, gave out after a short ride. There was no time to be lost and no means at hand to supply this important deficiency. To turn back to camp would supply it, but that course would also lose them their game. Fuentes, therefore, was re- quested to return to Fremont's camp, and there await the return of Kit Carson and Godey. These two had been the only men in the entire command who had volunteered in this chase. The loss of Fuentes, there- fore, made their task literally a Don Quixotic adventure. Two men against thirty. But Kit Carson was not the man to turn his back upon an adventure as soon as the difficulties began to present themselves. He well knew that he had one man on whom he could rely. Richard Godey was his tried and trusty friend, his kindred spirit and a noble hearted man. Leaving the. Mexican to find his way back to camp, a distance of about twenty miles, they gave him their word that they would finish the business. The following night was very dark, and in order to keep on the right scent Carson and Godey were obliged to lead their horses, and frequently to fol- low the trail by the sense of feeling. It was seldom, however, that they lost the path, and never for more than a few moments at a time. Gradually the signs grew fresher as they advanced, which gave them the assurance that they were rapidly gaining on the pur- suit. Finally, they concluded that only a few hours separated them from the savages. Having accomplished AMONG THE THIEVING RED -SKINS. 217 a considerable part of their journey during the night, and finding that both themselves and their horses re- quired rest, they concluded to halt. Having unsaddled their animals and turned them out to graze, they wrapped themselves up in their wet blankets and laid down to sleep. The weather, however, was too cold to permit sleeping in comfort without a fire. That they dare not make, fearing it would prove a warning signal to the savages. Having worried through the remainder of this cold and cheerless night, they arose early in the morning and went to the bottom of a deep ravine, where they kindled a small fire and succeeded in warm- ing themselves. At day-break they re-saddled their jaded horses and once more started upon the trail. Just as the sun was rising they discovered the Indians. When first seen, they were encamped two miles in advance, and were enjoying a breakfast on horse-steaks, having already killed five of the stolen animals. Kit Carson and his friend dismounted, and, concealing their horses near by, held a council of war. They decided to crawl in among the herd of stolen animals which were grazing, without guard, at a short distance from the camp of the savages. Upon reaching the horses, they agreed to be guided by circumstances. First divesting themselves of all useless apparel, they com- menced their task. After much cautious labor they gained their point and stood among the animals. As soon, however, as they arrived, one of the young horses of the band became frightened at the grotesque figures cut by the two creeping men, and exhibited his fear by snorting and kicking up his heels. This alarmed the remainder of the horses and caused quite a commotion among them, which had the effect to alarm the savages, 218 SCALPING TIIE INDIANS. who sprang for their arms. With a yell, Carson and Godey instantly turned towards the savages. As soon as they were all fairly in view, the two white men saw that they had thirty warriors before them to deal with. When they had advanced within rifle range, Kit Car- son halted, and, aiming his rifle at the stoutest looking brave, fired. The fierce savage fell with a cry of anguish. Godey had also halted and fired, but he missed his aim. Instantly reloading, he made the second attempt, and this time brought down a warrior. While these events were taking place, the red men were running about in great confusion. Occasionally they returned a few arrows, but they all proved but harmless missiles. The fact was, the Indians were puzzled what to think of the audacity of the two men. Evidently they considered them to be an advance party of some strong force, acting with a view of decoying them into a close fight. Acting upon this, they began to fly in every direction except that from which danger impended. Kit and Godey, as they had calculated, were thus, quite unceremoniously, left masters of the enemy's camp. Besides the recaptured horses, .they had two trophies lying upon the ground in the shape of a brace of stalwart warriors. In order to show their companions on their return that they were not given to boasting, they followed the example and practice of the savages, and scalped the two Indians. The com- mon expression now in use is, that they proceeded to " take the hair" of their victims. The performance of this act was a matter of choice, and fell to the lot of Godey, while Kit Carson, with the two rifles, ascended an eminence near at hand, for the double purpose of standing guard over his companion and also to recon- TERRIBLE TORTURING. 219 noitre. Godey commenced his operations on the savage which he himself had shot. Having finished with him, he started for the other Indian hit by Kit Carson. But this fellow, after he had fallen, had crawled quite out of view among some rocks. Being only wounded, he raised up and sent an arrow at Godey as he approached, which pierced his shirt-collar. The Indian had already lost a large amount of blood. His last act so exhausted him that he sank back upon the ground and expired. They next proceeded to collect the horses. Upon counting them, they found the number, stated by the Mexican to be correct, with the exception of five killed by the Indians for their feast. The animals were now driven to the spot where their own horses had been left. Here they held another council, and determined to seek out the fate of the remainder of the Mexican party. They therefore bent their steps towards the late camp of the Mexicans. There they found the bodies of the two men terribly mangled. The savage ferocity of the rascally savages had here had full play as soon as they found that the two who were on guard had broken through their line and escaped with the horses. Their bodies were naked and full of arrows. The women were not to be found. The remains were decently interred by Carson and Godey, and then they set about looking for the women. After a long search they could discover nothing of them, and concluded that they had been reserved for a worse fate. The re- mains of these two poor captives were afterwards found by some of Fremont's men. The Indians, not satisfied with killing them, had staked their naked bodies to the ground. Kit Carson and Godey having now accom- plished, on this errand of mercy, all that lay in the 13 220 FREMONT'S ACCOUNT OF THE AFFAIR. power of man to do, set out to return and soon rejoined their friends, whom the.y found anxiously waiting for them. Colonel Fremont concludes his account of this affair in the following words : " Their object accomplished, our men gathered up all the surviving horses, fifteen in number, returned upon their trail, and rejoined us at our camp in the afternoon of the same day. They had rode about one hundred miles in the pursuit and return, and all in thirty hours. The time, place, object, and numbers considered, this expedition of Carson and Godey may be considered among the boldest and most disinterested which the annals of western adventure, so full of dar- ing deeds, can present. Two men, in a savage desert, pursue day and night an unknown body of Indians into the defiles of an unknown mountain attack them on sight, without counting numbers and defeat them in an instant and for what ? To punish the robbers of the desert, and to avenge the wrongs of Mexicans whom they did not know. I repeat : it was Carson and Godey who did this the former an American, born in Kentucky ; the latter a Frenchman by descent, born in St. Louis ; and both trained to western enter- prise from early life." The stolen property was restored to the Mexicans without one cent being demanded or received by either Carson or Godey. It was not for the love of Indian fighting, as many may suppose, that Kit Carson was moved to take part in such expeditions ; but, when the life of a fellow- creature was exposed to Indian barbarities, no living man was more willing, or more capable of rendering a lasting service than Christopher Carson. A name that, POOLS OF COAGULATED BLOOD. 221 wherever it was known, was ranked among the "bravest of the brave." Soon after the two volunteers came in, Fremont resumed his journey and continued it without anything transpiring to disturb the equanimity of the party until they reached a point on the Virgin River where the Spanish trail leaves it. It became necessary to change camps here, in order that the animals might take ad- vantage of better grass. As the party were enjoying a day's rest, one of the men, a Canadian by birth, missed his riding mule from the herd. Without in- forming any of his friends of his intentions, he started out in quest of the animal. His absence, at first, was not noticed ; but, soon, inquiries were made for him, and when an unusual length of time had passed with- out his return, Fremont became anxious for his safety. He directed Kit Carson to take three men and go in search of him. On arriving at their last ' camp, Kit found a spot where, undoubtedly, the man had fallen from his horse wounded, as, about the place, there were pools of coagulated blood. It was now believed that their companion was dead. Kit immediately ordered the party to search for his body, but they could not find it. They then followed the trail of the Canadian's horse, which it was very evident he had caught and mounted before being shot. It led to where the animal had crossed the river. There, all signs disappeared. After a faithful search for the trail, Kit returned to camp, and informed his commander of the result of his day's work. The next morning^the search was renewed by all of the company. They discovered Indian signs, yet could not trace them to where the body was. After looking in every conceivable hiding-place in the 222 A. FOURTH OF JULY DINNER. neighborhood of the signs, they gave np the hunt. Kit Carson was much affected by the loss of this man. He had been his friend. They had been associated in many trapping expeditions, and knew each other most intimately. He felt assured that, if the Cana- dian had not been surprised by an enemy in ambus- cade, he would have killed one or two Indians before he himself fell ; for, besides being a very brave man, he was well versed in Indian mode of warfare, c.nd was considered a fine marksman. The party now proceeded on their journey, returning to and keeping on the Spanish Trail, which was not left until they reached the " Vega of Santa Clara." There they struck out across the country to the Utah lake, which, after crossing, they left, and went to the Wintry River, and thence to Green River, .Brown's Hole, Little Snake River, and so on to the mouth of St. Vrain's Fork. It was here that they traversed the mountains and came upon Laramie River, below the North Park. They journeyed through this into the Middle Park, and thence traveled to the head waters of the south fork of the Platte. On quitting it, they bent their way to the Arkansas River, coming on to it at a point just below the place where it leaves the Rocky Mountains, and, by keeping on down it, they arrived at Bent's Fort on the 2d of July, 1844. On the follow- ing fourth of July, Mr. Bent gave a dinner in com- memoration of the occasion to Fremont and his party. Although hundreds of miles separated from their countrymen, yet they sat down to as sumptuous a re- past as could be furnished in many towns of the States. The exploring party considered their labors finished at this post, as, in accordance with the tastes of many THE DIGGER INDIAN. 223 of the party, they were near enough to civilization - The command was dissolved, and Colonel Fremont pro- ceeded on his route to Washington. Kit Carson, abouf. the same time, started for Taos, where he had beei. a long time anxiously expected by his family an-' friends. During this expedition, they had met, for the :' time, that most abject of human beings, the " I>u: The Digger Indians, inhabiting the Great Basri. ;. the very lowest form of humanity. Dispersed in families, without fire-arms, eating seeds and ins <:<*: digging roots (and hence their name), such i,s tV c u dition of the greater part. It seems incredible that a desert so devoid of all nourishment, could hovo native inhabitants. Yet such is the fact. Whei few edible roots that grow in low grounds or mar places fail them, they subsist by hunting crickets, >pers," and field mice. Nothing can be more abject than the appv. nre of the Digger Indian in the fall, as he roams ab it with- out food, almost naked, and without weapons, .save, perhaps, a bow and arrows, with his eyes fixed upon the ground, looking for crickets, with which to appease his ever present appetite. So despicable is- he that he has neither friends or enemies, and the neighboring tribes do not condescend to notice his existence, unless he should happen to come in their way, when they would not consider it more than a playful diversion to put an end to his miserable life. It is to be hoped that, with the rapid advance of civilization, this degraded race may be brought into a happier state. Colonel Fremont, in his beautiful and instructive description of the country through which this expe- 224 THE GRASSES OF THE PRAIRIES. dition passed, refers to the grass on which the buffalo "delight to feed." It is eminently proper that we should add a few words for general information con- cerning the grasses of the prairies, as also concerning the timber, flowers, game face of the country, etc., etc., in which the whole life of Kit Carson has been spent. On the west side of the Arkansas River, and between that stream and the Rocky Mountains, there are three distinct species of grass found. The first is the short, curly variety, on which the buffalo are said to feed, from which fact it takes its name. The second kind is the Grama grass, which is, I believe, indigenous to only this section of America. Its stalk grows to the height of about one foot. Near its top, it gives off, at right angles, another stem, which is usually from one and a half to three inches in length. From this last-men- tioned stem, hang clusters of seed which are well pro- tected by a suitable covering. It is said, and my own observation confirms the fact, that horses will leave grain, such as corn and oats, to feed on this grass ; and its wonderful nutritious properties cannot be denied. Wild oats are often seen in the mountain valleys. Along the low, swampy lands which skirt the rivers of the plains, there is yet another species of grass which grows oftentimes several feet high, and has a broad blade, similar almost to that of the flag plant. On approaching the mountains the blue-grass is found, which is nearly the same as that usually met with in many of our western States. The bunch grass, as spoken of by Fremont, is the short, curly grass on which the buffalo "delights to feed," and which is still good when dry and apparently dead. It is not con- FLOWERS, TIMBER, GAME, ETC. 225 fined to the mountains in New Mexico, but is sorao- times met with in the valleys, where it grows t> an immense height. In the low lands it is useless, '>rii>~ too tough for animals to masticate. Strangers, wl.>r> v i journeying in these parts, often jnake the mistake selecting camps in this tall grass, being deceived ! its thrifty appearance ; but one night thus spe:it \ clearly prove its utter worthlessness. On the plains there are but few wild flower- : bin, as the traveler approaches the mountains, they grout his eyes in extensive beds and of variegated colors. This wealth and variety of flowers is more magnificent and attractive than anything cultivated. The colors are more deep and delicate than any found in our