MASHONALAND
 
 THE RUINED CITIES 
 
 OF 
 
 MASHONALAND 
 
 BEING A RECORD OF 
 
 EXCAVATION AND EXPLORATION IN 1S01 
 
 BY 
 
 J. THEODOKE BENT, F.S.A. F.B.G.S. 
 
 AUTHOR OK % TUE CYCI.ADES, OK LIKK AMOKUST THK INSULAR (JUKKKS ' ETC. 
 
 WITH A CHAPITER ON THE 
 
 ORIENTATION AND MENSURATION OF THE TEMPLES 
 BY R. M. W. SWAN 
 
 NEW EDITION 
 
 LONDON 
 LONGMANS, GREEN, AND CO. 
 
 AND NEW YORK : 15 EAST 16"- STREET 
 1895 
 
 Aii riyAtt retereed
 
 BIBLIOGRAPHICAL NOTE. 
 
 Edition, 8vo. November 1892 ; New and 
 Cheaper Edition, with additional Appendix, 
 crown Svo. August 1893 ; Reprinted, with addi- 
 tions, January 1895.
 
 PREFACE 
 
 TO 
 
 THE THIRD EDITION 
 
 SINCE the appearance of the second edition of this 
 book I have received many communications about 
 the Mashonaland ruins, considerable additional work 
 in excavation has been done, and many more ruins 
 have come to light as the country has been opened 
 out. Of this material I have set down the chief 
 pointe of interest. 
 
 Professor D. H. Muller. Professor D. H. Miiller, 
 of Vienna, the great Austrian authority on Southern 
 Arabian archaeology, wrote to me on the subject, and 
 kindly drew my attention to passages in his work on 
 the towers and castles of South Arabia which bore 
 on the question, and from which I now quote.. 
 Marib, the Mariaba of Greek and Roman geographers, 
 was the capital of the old Sabasan kingdom of Southern 
 Arabia, and celebrated more especially for its gigantic 
 dam and irrigation system, the ruin of which was 
 practically the ruin of the country. East-north-east 
 of Marib, half an hour's ride brings one to the great
 
 viii MASIIONALAND 
 
 ruin called by the Arabs the Haram of Bilkis or the 
 Queen of Sheba. It is an elliptical building with a 
 circuit of 300 feet, and the plan given by the French 
 traveller, M. Arnaud, shows a remarkable likeness to 
 the great circular temple at Zimbabwe. 
 
 Again, the long inscription on this building is in 
 two rows, and runs round a fourth of its circum- 
 ference ; this corresponds to the position of the two 
 rows of chevron pattern which run round a fourth 
 part of the temple at Zimbabwe. Furthermore, one 
 half of the elliptical wall on the side of the inscrip- 
 tion is well built and well preserved, whereas that on 
 the opposite side is badly built and partly ruined. 
 This is also the case in the Zimbabwe ruin, where all 
 the care possible has been lavished on the side where 
 the pattern and the round tower are, and the other 
 portion has been either more roughly finished or 
 constructed later by inferior workmen. 
 
 From the inscriptions on the building at Marib we 
 learn that it was a temple dedicated to the goddess 
 Almaqah. Professor Miiller writes as follows : 
 
 There is absolutely no doubt that the Haram of Bilkis is 
 an old temple in which sacred inscriptions to the deities were 
 set up on stylae. The elliptically formed wall appears to have 
 been always used in temple buildings ; also at Sirwah, the 
 Almaqah temple, which is decidedly very much older than 
 the Haram of Bilkis, was also built in au oval form. Also 
 these temples, as the inscriptions show, were dedicated to 
 Almaqah. Arabian archaeologists also identify Bilkis with 
 Almaqah, and, therefore, make the temple of Almaqah into 
 a female apartment (haram).
 
 PREFACE TO THE THIRD EDITION ix 
 
 From Hamdani, the Arabian geographer, we learn 
 that lalmaqah was the star Venus ; for the star Venus 
 is called in the Himyaritic tongue lalmaqah or Almaq, 
 ' illuminating,' and hence we see the curious connec- 
 tion arising between the original female goddess of 
 the earlier star-worshipping Sabseans and the later 
 myth of the wonderful Queen Bilkis, who was sup- 
 posed to have constructed these buildings. 
 
 It seems to me highly probable that in the temple 
 of Zimbabwe we have a Sabaean Almaqah temple ; 
 the points of comparison are so very strong, and there 
 is furthermore a strong connection between the star- 
 worshipping Sabaeans and the temple with its points 
 orientated to the sun, and built on such definite 
 mathematical principles. 
 
 Professor Sayce called my attention to the fact 
 that the elliptical form of temple and the construction 
 on a system of curves is further paralleled by the 
 curious temples at Malta, which all seemed to have 
 been constructed on the same principle. 
 
 Mr. W. St. Chad Boscawen's interesting communi- 
 cation to the preface of the second edition receives 
 confirmation from details concerning the worship of 
 Sopt at Saft-el-Henneh, published by Herr Brugsch in 
 the Proceedings of Biblical Archaeology. Sopt, he 
 tells us, was the feudal god of the Arabian nome, the 
 nome of Sopt. At Saft-el-Henneh this god is described 
 upon the monuments as * Sopt the Spirit of the East, 
 the Hawk, the Horus of the East ' (Naville's ' Goshen,' 
 p. 10), and as also connected with Turn, the rising
 
 X MASHONALAND 
 
 and setting sun (p. 13). M. Naville believes that this 
 bird represents not the rising sun, but one of the 
 planets, Venus, the morning star ; that is to say, that 
 Sopt was the herald of the sun, not the sun itself. 
 Herr Brugsch, however, believes that it was really 
 the god of the zodiacal light, the previous and the 
 after glow. If M. Naville's theory is correct, we have 
 at once a strong connection between Almaqah, the 
 Venus star of the Sabseans, and the goddess wor- 
 shipped at Marib and probably at Zimbabwe, and 
 the hawk of Sopt, the feudal god of the Arabian 
 nome, which was closely connected with the worship 
 of Hathor, ' the queen of heaven and earth.' 
 
 Sir John Willoughby conducted further excava- 
 tions at Zimbabwe, which lasted over a period of five 
 weeks. He brought to light a great number of 
 miscellaneous articles, but unfortunately none of the 
 finds are different from those which we discovered. 
 He obtained a number of crucibles, phalli, and bits of 
 excellent pottery, fragments of soapstone bowls. One 
 object only may be of interest, which he thus 
 describes : 
 
 This was a piece of copper about six inches in length, a 
 quarter of an inch wide, and an eighth of an inch thick, 
 covered with a green substance (whether enamel, paint, or 
 lacquer, I am unable to determine), and inlaid with one of 
 the triangular Zimbabwe designs. It was buried some five 
 leet below the surface, almost in contact with the east side of 
 the wall itself. 
 
 Sir John also found some very fine pieces of
 
 PEEFACE TO THE THIRD EDITION xi 
 
 pottery which would not disgrace a classical period 
 in Greece or Egypt. Furthermore, he made it abun- 
 dantly clear that the buildings are of many different 
 periods, for they show more recent walls superposed 
 on older ones. 
 
 Mr. E. W. M. Swan, who was with us on our 
 expedition as cartographer and surveyor, has this 
 year returned to Mashonaland, and has visited and 
 taken the plans of no less than thirteen sets of 
 ruins of minor importance, but of the same period 
 as Zimbabwe, on his way up from the Limpopo river 
 to Fort Victoria. The results of these investigations 
 have been eminently satisfactory, and in every case 
 confirming the theory of the construction of the great 
 Zimbabwe temple. 
 
 At the junction of the Lotsani river with the 
 Limpopo he found two sets of ruins and several 
 shapeless masses of stones, not far from a well-known 
 spot where the Limpopo is fordable. Both of these 
 are of the same workmanship as the Zimbabwe build- 
 ings, though not quite so carefully constructed as the 
 big temple ; the courses are regular, and the battering 
 back of each successive course and the rounding of 
 the ends of the walls are very cleverly done. The 
 walls are built of the same kind of granite and with 
 holes at the doorways for stakes as at Zimbabwe. 
 But what is most important, Mr. Swan ascertained 
 that the length of the radius of the curves of which 
 they are built is equal to the diameter of the Lundi 
 temple or the circumference of the great round tower
 
 Xli MASHOXALAND 
 
 at Zimbabwe. He then proceeded to orientate the 
 temple, and as the sun was nearly setting he sat on 
 the centre of the arc, and was delighted to find that 
 the sun descended nearly in a line with the main 
 doorway ; and as it was only seventeen days past the 
 winter solstice, on allowing for the difference in the 
 sun's declination for that time, he found that a line 
 from the centre of the arc through the middle of the 
 doorway pointed exactly to the sun's centre when it 
 set at the winter solstice. The orientation of the 
 other ruin he found was also to the setting sun. 
 ' This,' writes Mr. Swan, ' places our theories regard- 
 ing orientation and geometrical construction beyond 
 a doubt.' 
 
 Continuing his journey northwards, Mr. Swan 
 found two sets of ruins in the Lipokole hills, four 
 near Semalali, and one actually 300 yards from the 
 mess-room of the Bechuanaland Border Police at 
 Macloutsie camp. Owing to stress of time Mr. Swan 
 was not able to visit all the ruins that he heard of in 
 this locality, but he was able to fix the radii of two 
 curves at the Macloutsie ruin, and four curves at 
 those near Semalali, and he found them all con- 
 structed on the system used at Zimbabwe. The two 
 ruins on the Lipokole hills he found to be fortresses 
 only, and not built on the plan of the temples. The 
 temples consist generally of two curves only, and are 
 of half-moon shape, and seem never to have been 
 complete enclosures ; they are all built of rough 
 stone, for no good stone is obtainable, yet the curves
 
 PREFACE TO THE THIRD EDITION Xlll 
 
 are extremely well executed, and are generally true 
 in their whole length to within one or two inches. 
 
 Further up country, on the 'Msingwani river, Mr. 
 Swan found seven sets of ruins, three of which were 
 built during the best period of Zimbabwe work. He 
 measured three of the curves here, and found them 
 to agree precisely with the curve system used in the 
 construction of the round temple at Zimbabwe, and 
 all of them were laid off with wonderful accuracv. 
 
 w 
 
 Another important piece of work done by Mr. 
 Swan on his way up to Fort Victoria was to take 
 accurate measurements of the small circular temple 
 about 200 yards from the Lundi river. This we had 
 visited on our way up ; but as we had not then 
 formed any theory with regard to the construction of 
 these buildings, we did not measure the building with 
 sufficient accuracy to be quite sure of our data. 
 
 With regard to this ruin, Mr. Swan writes : 
 
 One door is to the north and the other 128 and a fraction 
 from it ; so that the line from the centre to the sun rising tit 
 mid-winter bisects the arc between the doorways. If one 
 could measure the circumference of this arc with sufficient 
 accuracy, we could deduce the obliquity of the ecliptic when 
 the temple was built. I made an attempt, and arrived at 
 about 2000 B.C. ; but really it is impossible to measure with 
 sufficient accuracy to arrive at anything definite by this 
 method, although from it we may get useful corroborative 
 evidence. 
 
 From this mass of fresh evidence as to the curves 
 and orientation of the Mashon aland ruins we may
 
 MASHOXALAND 
 
 safely consider that the builders of these mysterious 
 structures were \vell versed in geometry, and studied 
 carefully the heavens. Beyond this nothing, of 
 course, can really be proved until an enormous 
 amount of careful study has been devoted to the 
 subject. It is, however, very valuable confirmatory 
 evidence when taken with the other points, that the 
 builders were of a Semitic race and of Arabian origin, 
 arid quite excludes the possibility of any negroid race 
 having had more to do with their construction than 
 as the slaves of a race of higher cultivation ; for it is 
 a well- accepted fact that the negroid brain never 
 could be capable of taking the initiative in work of 
 such intricate nature. 
 
 Mr. Cecil Ehodes also had another excavation 
 done outside the walls of the great circular ruin, and 
 the soil carefully sifted. In it were discovered a large 
 number of gold beads, gold in thin sheets, and 
 2^ ounces of small and beautifully made gold tacks ; 
 also a fragment of wood about the tenth of an inch 
 square, covered with a brown colouring matter and 
 a gilt herring-bone pattern. 
 
 Mr. Swan thus describes these finds : 
 
 Very many gold beads have been found ; also leaf gold 
 and wedge-shaped tacks of gold for fixing it on wood. 
 Finely twisted gold wire and bits of gilt pottery, also some 
 silver. The pottery is the most interesting ; it is very thin, 
 only about one-fifteenth of an inch thick, and had been coated 
 with some pigment, on which the gilt is laid. On the last 
 fragment found the gilding is in waving lines, but on a 
 former piece there is a herring-bone pattern. The work ia
 
 PREFACE TO THE THIRD EDITION XV 
 
 so fine that to see it easily one has to use a magnifying glass. 
 The most remarkable point about the gold ornaments is the 
 quantity in which they are found. Almost every panful of 
 stuff taken from anywhere about the ruins will show some 
 gold. Just at the fountain the ground is particularly rich. I 
 have tested some of the things from Zimbabwe, and, in 
 addition to gold, find alloy of silver and copper, and gold 
 and silver. 
 
 One of the most interesting of the later finds in 
 Mashonaland is a wooden platter found in a cave 
 about 10 miles distant from Zimbabwe, a reproduc- 
 tion of which forms the frontispiece to this edition. 
 .Mr. Noble, clerk of the Cape Houses of Parliament, 
 to whom I am indebted for the photograph of this 
 object, thus describes it : 
 
 In the centre of the dish, which is about 38 inches in 
 circumference, there is carved the figure of a crocodile (which 
 was probably regarded as a sacred animal) or an Egyptian 
 turtle, and on the rim of the plate is a very primitive repre- 
 sentation of the zodiacal characters, such as Aquarius, Pisces, 
 Cancer, Sagittarius, Gemini, as well as Taurus and Scorpio. 
 Besides these there occur the figures of the sun and moon, 
 a group of three stars, a triangle, and four slabs with tri- 
 angular punctures (two of them being in reversed positions), 
 all carved in relief, and displaying the same rude style of art 
 which marked the decorated bowl found by Mr. Bent in the 
 temple at Zimbabwe. A portion of the rim of the plate has 
 been eroded by insects, probably from resting on damp 
 ground. Altogether, the relic presents to the eye an un- 
 questionable specimen of rare archaism, which has been 
 remarkably preserved through many centuries, probably 
 dating back even before the Christian era. Previous obser- 
 
 a
 
 MASHONALAXD 
 
 vation and measurements of Zimbabwe, by Mr. R. Swan, 
 established the presumption that the builders of it used 
 astronomical methods and observed the zodiacal and other 
 stars ; and this plate shows that the ancient people, whether 
 Phoenician, Sabaean, or Mineans all of Arabian origin 
 were familiar with the stellar gi-ouping and signs said to 
 have been first developed by the Chaldeans and dwellers in 
 Mesopotamia. 
 
 Another interesting find in connection with this 
 early civilisation is a Eoman coin of the Emperor 
 Antoninus Pius (A.D. 138); it was found in an ancient 
 shaft near Umtali at a depth of 70 feet, and forms a 
 valuable link in the chain of evidence as to the 
 antiquity of the gold mines in Mashonaland. 
 
 Concerning the more recent ruins discovered in 
 Matabeleland, north of Buluwayo, we have not much 
 definite detail to hand at present. Mr. Swan writes 
 that he has seen photographs of them, and that 
 * many of the ruins are of great size. One can clearly 
 see that in most cases the mason work is at least as 
 good as that at Zimbabwe, and the decorations on 
 the wall are at least as well constructed and are more 
 lavishly used. In one ruin you have the chevron, 
 the herring-bone, and the chessboard patterns.' 
 
 J. THEODORE BENT 
 
 IS GREAT CUMBERLAND PLACE J 
 October 31, 1894.
 
 PBEFACE 
 
 TO 
 
 THE SECOND EDITION 
 
 IN looking over this work for a second edition, I find 
 little to add to the material as it appeared in the 
 first, and next to nothing to alter. Sir John 
 Willoughby has kindly supplied me with details con- 
 cerning five weeks' excavation which he carried on 
 the summer following the one which we spent there, 
 the results of which, however, appear only to have 
 produced additional specimens of the objects we 
 found namely, crucibles with traces of gold, frag- 
 ments of decorated bowls, phalli, &c. but no further 
 object to assist us in unravelling the mystery of the 
 primitive race which built the ruins. 
 
 No one of the many reviewers of my work has 
 criticised adversely my archaeological standpoint 
 with regard to these South African remains : on the 
 contrary, I continue to have letters on the subject 
 from all sides which make me more than ever con- 
 vinced that the authors of these ruins were a northern 
 
 a2
 
 XVI 11 MASHOXALAND 
 
 race coming from Arabia a race which spread more 
 extensively over the world than we have at present 
 any conception of, a race closely akin to the Phoeni- 
 cian and the Egyptian, strongly commercial, and 
 eventually developing into the more civilised races 
 of the ancient world. 
 
 Professor D. H. Miiller, of Vienna, endorses our 
 statements concerning the form and nature of the 
 buildings themselves in his work ' Burgen und 
 Schlosser ' (ii. 20), to which he kindly called my 
 attention ; and Mr. W. St. Chad Boscawen has also 
 favoured me with the following remarks on certain 
 analogous points that have struck him during an 
 archaeological tour in Egypt this last winter : 
 
 The HawJis Gods over the Mines in Mashonaland. 
 
 A ctirious parallel and possible explanation to the birds 
 found in Mashonaland over the works at Zimbabwe seems to 
 me to be afforded by the study of the mines and quarries of 
 the ancient Egyptians. During my explorations in Egypt 
 this winter I visited a large number of quarries, and was 
 much struck by noticing that in those of an early period the 
 hawk nearly always occurs as a guardian emblem. 
 
 Of this we have several examples. 
 
 In the Wady Magharah, the mines of which were worked 
 for copper and turquoise by the ancient Egyptians of the 
 period of the Third and Fourth Dynasties, especially by 
 Senefru, Kufu, and Kephren, the figure of the hawk is found 
 sculptured upon the rocks as the special emblem of the god 
 of the mines. Another striking example of this connection 
 of the hawk with the mines is afforded by a quarry worked
 
 PREFACE TO THE SECOND EDITION XIX 
 
 for alabaster, which I visited in February of this year. The 
 quarry is situated in the Gebel-Kiawleh, to the east of the 
 Siut road. It is a large natural cave, which has been worked 
 into a quarry yielding a rich yellow alabaster, such as was 
 used for making vases and toilet vessels. Over the door were 
 sculptured the cartouches of Teta, the first king of the Sixth 
 Dynasty, but, as may be seen from the accompanying sketch, 
 in the centre of the lintel was a panel on which is sculptured 
 the figure of a hawk. This quarry was only worked during 
 Sixth and Twelfth Dynasties, as in the interior were found 
 inscriptions of Amen-em-hat II. and Usortesen III. A 
 third example of this association of the hawk and the mines 
 is afforded by a quarry of the period of the Eighteenth 
 Dynasty. In the mountains at the back of the plain of Tel- 
 el-Amarna is a large limestone quarry. On one pillar of this 
 great excavation extending far into the hill is sculptured the 
 cartouche of Queen Tii. On another column we have the 
 
 hawk and emblems of the goddess Hathor, 
 
 r,--- 
 
 to whom all 
 
 mines were sacred. This seems to show that the hawk was 
 the emblem of the goddess Hathor, to whom all mines were 
 sacred, as we know from the inscription at Denderah, where 
 the king says, ' I bestow upon thee the mountains, to produce 
 for thee the stones to be a delight to see.' And it must be 
 remembered that the region of Sinai was especially sacred to 
 the goddess Hathor. This association of mines with Hathor 
 especially explains the birds, as, according to Sinaitic in- 
 scriptions, she was in this region particularly worshipped. 
 Here were temples to her where she was worshipped as 'the 
 sublime Hathor, queen of heaven and earth and the dark 
 depths below ' ; and here she was also associated with the 
 sparrow-hawk of Supt, ' the lord of the East.' This associa- 
 tion with Sinai, and ako with Arabia and Punt, which is 
 attached to the goddess Hathor, and her connection with the
 
 XX MASHONALA3D 
 
 mines in Egypt, seems to me to be most important in con- 
 nection with the emblem, of the hawk in the mines at 
 Zimbabwe. 
 
 According to the oldest traditions of the Egyptians there 
 was a close association between Hathor, the goddess of Ta- 
 Netu, ' the Holy Land,' and Punt. She was called the ' Queen 
 and Ruler of Punt.' Now, Punt was the Somali coast, the 
 Ophir of the Egyptians; but, at the same time, there was 
 undoubtedly a close association between it and Arabia, and 
 indeed, as Brugsch remarks, there is no need to limit it to 
 Somali land, but to embrace in it the coasts of Yemen and 
 Hydramaut. ' Here in these regions,' he says (' Hist. Eg.' 
 p. 117), 'we ought to seek, as it appears to us, for those 
 mysterious places which in the fore ages of all history the 
 wonder-loving Cushite races, like swarms of locusts, left in 
 passing from Arabia and across the sea to set foot on the 
 rich and blessed Punt and the " Holy Land," and to continue 
 their wanderings into the interior in a northerly and western 
 direction. We may also bring this connection between Punt, 
 Sinai, and Egypt more close in the time of the Eighteenth 
 Dynasty, when we see on a rock-cut tablet at Sinai, in the 
 Wady Magharah, the dual inscription of Hatsepsu and 
 Thothmes III., who present their offerings to the " lord of 
 the East, the sparrow-hawk Supt, and the heavenly Hathor." ' 
 
 With all these facts before us there seems little doubt 
 that the association between the hawks and the mines and 
 miners is a very ancient one, and may be attributed to 
 either ancient Egyptian, or rather, I think, to very ancient 
 Arabian times; for, as we know from the inscriptions of 
 Senefru, the builder of the Pyramid of Medum, the mines in 
 Sinai were worked by ' foreigners,' who may have been 
 Chaldeans or ancient Arabians. 
 
 Another point which seems to me to throw some addi- 
 tional light upon this subject, and again imply a possible
 
 PREFACE TO THE SECOND EDITION XXI 
 
 Arabian connection, is the remarkable ingot mould discovered 
 at Zimbabwe. The shape is exactly that of the curious ob- 
 jects, possibly ingots of some kind, which are represented as 
 being brought by the Amu in the tomb of Khemmhotep at 
 Beni Hasan, an event which took place in the ninth year of 
 the reign of King Usortesen II., of the Twelfth Dynasty. 
 The shape is very interesting, as it has evidently been chosen 
 for the purposes of being tied on to donkeys or carried by 
 slaves. The curious phalli found at Zimbabwe may also 
 resemble the same emblems found in large numbers near the 
 Specs Artemidos, the shrine of Pasht, near to Beni Hasan, 
 and may have been associated with the goddess Hathor. 
 There are many other features which seem to me to bear out 
 a distinctly Arabo-Egyptian theory as to the working of this 
 ancient gold-field, and future study will no doubt bring these 
 in greater prominence. w ^ c BosCAWEN 
 
 Certain critics from South Africa have attacked 
 my derivations of \vords. I admit that the subject 
 is open to criticism ; almost anyone could state a 
 derivation for such words as Zimbabwe, Makalanga, 
 Mashona, and they would all have about the same 
 degree of plausibility. Some people write and tell 
 me that they are quite sure I am right ; others, again, 
 write and tell me that they are quite sure I am 
 wrong. Such being the case, I prefer to let the 
 derivations stand as I originally put them until 
 positive proof be brought before me, and for that I 
 i'eel sure I shall have to wait a long time. 
 
 J. THEODORE BENT. 
 
 13 GREAT CUMBERLAND PLACE : 
 May 26, 1893.
 
 CONTENTS 
 
 PART I 
 ON THE EOAD TO THE EUINS 
 
 CHAP. FAGB 
 
 I. THE JOUKNEY UP BY THE KALAHARI DESERT EoUTE . 3 
 
 II. FIRST IMPRESSIONS OF MASHONALAND 31 
 
 III. CAMP LIFE AND WORK AT ZIMBABWE . . . .60 
 
 PART II 
 
 DEVOTED TO THE ARCHAEOLOGY OF THE 
 RUINED CITIES 
 
 IV. DESCRIPTION OF THE VARIOUS KUINS 95 
 
 V. ON THE ORIENTATION AND MEASUREMENTS OF ZIMBABWE 
 
 EUINS, BY E. M. W. SWAN 141 
 
 VI. THE FINDS AT THE GREAT ZIMBABWE EUINS . . . 179 
 
 YII. THE GEOGRAPHY AND ETHNOLOGY OF THE MASHONALAND 
 
 EUINS 223
 
 XXIV MASHONALAND 
 
 PART III 
 EXPLORATION JOURNEYS IN MASHONALAND 
 
 CHAP. FAOB 
 
 VIII. DOWN TO THE SABI RIVER AND MATINDELA RUINS . 247 
 
 IX. FORT SALISBURY AND THE OLD WORKINGS AND Ruixs 
 
 OF THE MAZOE VALLEY 279 
 
 X. OUR EMBASSY TO THE CHIEF 'MroKO 301 
 
 XI. THE RUINED CITIES IN MANGWENDI'S, CHIPUVZA'S, AND 
 
 MAKONI'S COUNTRIES 336 
 
 XII. THE JOURNEY TO THE COAST ...... SGI 
 
 APPENDICES 
 
 A. NOTES ON THE GEOGRAPHY AND METEOROLOGY OF MASHONA- 
 
 LAND, BY R. M. W. SWAN 389 
 
 B. LIST OF STATIONS IN MASHONALAND ASTRONOMICALLY OB- 
 
 SERVED, WITH ALTITUDES, BY R. M. W. SWAN . . . 398 
 
 C. ADDENDA TO CHAPTER V., BY R. M. W. SWAN . . . 401 
 
 D. PROGRESS IN MASHONALAND SUMMARISED FROM NOVEMBER 
 
 1891 TO MAY 1SJ3 405 
 
 INDEX . .413
 
 ILLUSTKATIONS 
 
 PAGB 
 
 WOODEN PLATTER FOUND IN A CAVE ABOUT TKN MILES FROM 
 
 ZIMBABWE ........ Fion-tispicce 
 
 MR. THEODORE BENT ......... 3 
 
 MAKING THONGS OF OX-HIDK . . . . . . . . 19 
 
 WOODEN PILLOW . . 36 
 
 ANCIENT EGYPTIAN PILLOW IN THE BRITISH MUSEUM . . . 37 
 
 WOODEN DOLLASSES OR DIVINING TABLETS 38 
 
 BONE DOLLASSES . . . . . . . . 39 
 
 GOURDS FOR BALING WATER ........ 40 
 
 WOODEN MORTAR, BOWL, AND PORRIDGE BOWL . . . . 41 
 
 WOMAN'S GIRDLE, WITH CARTRIDGE CASES, SKIN-SCRAPERS, AND 
 
 MEDICINE PHIALS ATTACHED ....... 44 
 
 WOODEN HAIR COMB, CHIBI'S COUNTRY 45 
 
 GRANARY DECORATED WITH BREAST AND FURROW PATTERN . 46 
 
 WOODEN PILLOW REPRESENTING HUMAN FORM . . . . 47 
 IRON SKIN-SCRAPER, AND NEEDLES IN CASES . . . .48 
 
 MRS. THEODORE BENT . . . . . . . . . 61 
 
 UMGABE AND HIS INDUNAS G7 
 
 HATCHET 70 
 
 CARVED KNIVES 71 
 
 BONE ORNAMENTS . . . . . . . . . . 72 
 
 WOODEN SNUFF-BOXES 74 
 
 BOY BEATING DRUM .......... 77
 
 XXVI MASHONALAND 
 
 PAGB 
 
 DRUM DECORATED WITH ' BREAST AND FURROW ' PATTERN, AND 
 
 PLAIN DRUM . . . . . . . . . . 78 
 
 PLAYING THE PIANO 80 
 
 MAKALANGA PIANO 81 
 
 HUT AT UMGABE'S KRAAL WITH EUPHORBIA BEHIND . . .89 
 
 AT CHERUMBILA'S KRAAL 91 
 
 RUIN ON THE LUNDI RIVER 97 
 
 GENERAL VIEW OF ZIMBABWE 101 
 
 MAIN ENTRANCE OF CIRCULAR RUIN AT ZIMBABWE . . . 100 
 
 LARGE CIRCULAR RUIN, ZIMBA"BWK 107 
 
 PATTERN ON LARGE CIRCULAR RUIN AT ZIMBABWE . . . 109 
 LARGE ROUND TOWER IN CIRCULAR RUIN, ZIMBABWE . . . 113 
 ROUND TOWER AND MONOLITH DECORATION ON THE FORTRESS 
 
 AT ZIMBABWE 123 
 
 APPROACH TO THE ACROPOLIS 125 
 
 THE PLATFORM WITH MONOLITHS, ETC., ON THE FORTRESS AT 
 
 ZIMBABWE .......... 127 
 
 APPROACH TO THE FORTRESS BY THE CLEFT, ZIMBABWE . . 133 
 
 BAOBAB TREE IN MATINDELA RUINS 136 
 
 WALLED-UP ENTRANCE AND PATTERN ON MATINDELA RUINS . . 137 
 
 MAP OF ZIMBABWE DISTRICT 143 
 
 THE TWO TOWERS 149 
 
 COIN OF BYBLOS SHOWING THE ROUND TOWER .... 150 
 
 THE TRIPLE WALLS AT ZIMBABWE 153 
 
 WITHIN THE DOUBLE WALLS, ZIMBABWE 171 
 
 SOAPSTONE BIRD ON PEDESTAL 180 
 
 SOAPSTONE BIRDS ON PEDESTALS 181 
 
 FRONT AND BACK OF A BROKEN SOAPSTONE BIRD ON PEDESTAL . 183 
 
 BIRD ON PEDESTAL 184 
 
 BIRD ON PEDESTAL FROM THE ZODIAC OF DENDERAH . . . 185 
 
 MINIATURE BIRDS ON PEDESTALS 187 
 
 ORNATE PHALLUS, ZIMBABWE ; AND PHOENICIAN COLUMN IN THE 
 
 LOUVRE . 188
 
 ILLUSTRATIONS XXVll 
 
 PAGK 
 
 LONG DECORATED SOAPSTONE BEAM IN TWO PIECES . . . 190 
 
 DECORATED SOAPSTONE BEAMS 191, 192 
 
 COLLECTION OF STRANGE STONES ....... 193 
 
 FRAGMENT OF BOWL WITH PROCESSION OF BULLS . . . . 194 
 
 FRAGMENT OF BOWL WITH HUNTING SCENE 195 
 
 BOWL WITH ZEBRAS "... . . 196 
 
 FRAGMENT OF SOAPSTONE BOWL WITH PROCESSION . . . 197 
 FRAGMENTS OF SOAPSTONE BOWLS WITH EAR OF CORN AND 
 
 LETTERING 198 
 
 LETTERS FROM PROTO-ARABIAN ALPHABET . . . . . 199 
 LETTERS ON A BOCK IN BECHUANALAND, COPIED BY MR. A. A. 
 
 ANDERSON . . 199 
 
 SOAPSTONE BOWLS 200, 201 
 
 FRAGMENT OF BOWL WITH KNOBS . 202 
 
 SOAPSTONE CYLINDER FROM ZIMBABWE . . . . . . 202 
 
 OBJECT FROM TEMPLE OF PAPHOS, CYPRUS 203 
 
 GLASS BEADS, CELADON POTTERY, PERSIAN POTTERY, AND ARABIAN 
 
 GLASS 205 
 
 FRAGMENT OF BOWL OF GLAZED POTTERY . . ... 206 
 
 FRAGMENTS OF POTTERY ........ 207 
 
 TOP OF POTTERY BOWL, POTTERY Sow, AND WHORLS . 208, 209 
 
 WEAPONS 210 
 
 IRON BELLS AND BRONZE SPEAR-HEAD .... 211, 212 
 
 BATTLE-AXES AND ARROWS 2] 3, 214 
 
 GILT SPEAR-HEAD 216 
 
 TOOLS 217 
 
 ANCIKNT SPADE '..... 218 
 
 SOAPSTONE INGOT MOULD, ZIMBABWE 218 
 
 INGOT OF TIN FOUND IN FALMOUTH HARBOUR , * . . 219 
 SOAPSTONE OBJECT .......... 219 
 
 BEVELLED EDGE OF GOLD SMELTING FURNACE . . . . 220
 
 xxviii MASHONALAND 
 
 PAOH 
 
 CRUCIBLES FOR SMELTING GOLD FOUND AT ZIMBABWE. k . 2-21 
 FRAGMENTS OF POTTERY BLOW- PIPES FROM FURNACE . . . 222 
 
 METZWANDIRA 241) 
 
 CHIEF'S IRON SCEPTRE, AND IRON RAZOR 253 
 
 KOCK NEAR MAKORI POST STATION 254 
 
 KNITTED BAG 255 
 
 LARDER TREE 256 
 
 EEED SNUFF-BOXES AND GREASE-HOLDER 257 
 
 DECORATED HUT DOOR 259 
 
 STRAW HAT 2GO 
 
 DECORATED HEADS ......... 262 
 
 CHIEF'S TOMB 271 
 
 INTERIOR OF A HUT 274 
 
 HOUSEHOLD STORE FOR GRAIN, WITH NATIVE DRAWINGS . . 275 
 
 NATIVE DRAWINGS 276 
 
 NATIVE BOWL FROM THE MAZOE VALLEY 286 
 
 KUIN IN MAZOE VALLEY 293 
 
 THREE VENETIAN BEADS ; ONE COPPER BEAD ; THREE OLD 
 WHITE VENETIAN BEADS ; BONE WHORL, MEDICINE PHIALS, 
 
 AND BONE ORNAMENTS 297 
 
 TATTOOED WOMEN FROM CHIBI'S, GAMBIDJI'S, AND KUNZI'S 
 
 COUNTRIES .......... 304 
 
 WOODEN BOWL FROM MUSUNGAIKWA'S KRAAL 305 
 
 MAKALANGA IRON SMELTING FURNACE 308 
 
 GOATSKIN BELLOWS AND BLOW-PIPE FOR IRON SMELTING . . 309 
 
 WOMAN'S DRESS OF WOVEN BARK FIBRE 310 
 
 BRACELETS. . . ' 313 
 
 WOODEN PLATTER FROM LUTZI 316 
 
 EARRING, STUD FOR THE LIP, AND BATTLE-AXE . . . . 320 
 
 POWDER-HORN 321 
 
 A COLLECTION OF COMBS 322 
 
 WOODEN SPOON. LUTZI 328
 
 ILLUSTRATIONS xx j x 
 
 PAG* 
 
 BUSHMAN DRAWINGS NEAR 'MTOKO'S KRAAL . . . 332, 333 
 
 MANGWENDI'S KRAAL QQQ 
 
 Ooo 
 
 BUSHMAN DRAWINGS FROM NYANGER Rocx ... . 345 
 
 CHIPUNZA'S KRAAL 34g 
 
 DECORATED POST o- Q 
 
 I . . OiJO
 
 CHAPTER I 
 
 THE JOURNEY UP B THE KALAHARI DESERT ROUTE 
 
 Ix a volume devoted to 
 the ruined cities of Ma- 
 shonaland I am loth 
 to introduce remarks in 
 narrative form relating 
 how we got to them and 
 how we got away. Still, 
 however, the incidents 
 of our journeyings to 
 and fro offer certain 
 features which may be 
 interesting from an an- 
 thropological point of 
 view. The study of 
 the natives and their 
 customs occupied our 
 leisure moments when 
 
 not digging at Zimbabwe or travelling too fast, and a 
 record of what we saw amongst them, comes legiti- 
 mately, I. think, within the scope of our expedition. 
 
 K 2 
 
 ME. THEODORE BENT
 
 4 ON THE ROAD TO THE RUINS 
 
 For the absence of narrative of sport in these 
 pages I feel it hardly necessary to apologise. So 
 much has been done in this line by the colossal 
 Nimrods who have visited South Africa that any trifling 
 experiences we may have had in this direction are 
 not worth the telling. My narrative is, therefore, 
 entirely confined to the ruins and the people ; on 
 other South African subjects I do not pretend to 
 speak with any authority whatsoever. 
 
 Three societies subscribed liberally to our ex- 
 pedition namely, the Eoyal Geographical Society, 
 the British Chartered Company of South Africa, 
 and the British Association for the Advancement of 
 Science without which aid I could never have un- 
 dertaken a journey of such proportions ; and to the 
 officers of the Chartered Company, with whom we 
 naturally came much in contact, I cannot tender 
 thanks commensurate with thei r kindness ; to their 
 assistance, especially in the latter part of our journey, 
 when we had parted company with our waggons and 
 our comforts, we owe the fact that we were able to 
 penetrate into unexplored parts of the country with- 
 out let or hindrance, and without more discomforts 
 than naturally arise from incidents of travel. 
 
 Serious doubts as to the advisability of a lady 
 undertaking such a journey were frequently brought 
 before us at the outset ; fortified, however, by previous 
 experience in Persia, Asia Minor, and the Greek 
 Islands, we hardly gave these doubts more than a 
 passing thought, and the event proved that they were
 
 THE KALAHARI DESERT ROUTE 6 
 
 wholly unnecessary. My wife was the only one of 
 our party who escaped fever, never having a day's* 
 illness during the whole year that we were away from 
 home. She was able to take a good many photographs 
 under circumstances of exceptional difficulty, and 
 instead of being, as was prophesied, a burden to the 
 expedition, she furthered its interests and contributed 
 to its ultimate success in more ways than one. 
 
 Mr. Eobert McNair Wilson Swan accompanied 
 us in the capacity of cartographer ; to him I owe 
 not only the plans which illustrate this volume, 
 but also much kindly assistance in all times of 
 difficulty. 
 
 We three left England at the end of January 189] , 
 and returned to it again at the end of January 1892, 
 having accomplished a record rare in African travel, 
 and of which we are justly proud namely, that no 
 root of bitterness sprang up amongst us. 
 
 We bought two waggons, thirty-six oxen, and 
 heaps of tinned provisions at Kimberley. These we 
 conveyed by train to Vryberg, in Bechuanaland, which 
 place we left on March 6. An uninteresting and un- 
 eventful ' trek ' of a week brought us to Mafeking, 
 where we had to wait some time, owinor to a deluge 
 
 7 O o 
 
 of rain, and from this point I propose to commence 
 the narrative of my observations. 
 
 Bechuanaland is about as big as France, and a 
 country which has been gradually coming under the 
 sphere of British influence since Sir Charles Warren's 
 campaign, and which in a very few years must of
 
 6 ON THE ROAD TO THE RUINS 
 
 necessity be absorbed into the embryo empire which 
 Mr. Cecil Ehodes hopes to build up from the Lakes 
 to Cape Town. At present there are three degrees 
 of intensity of British influence in Bechuanaland 
 in proportion to the proximity to headquarters 
 firstly, the Crown colony to the south, with its rail- 
 way, its well-to-do settlements at Taungs, Vryberg, 
 and Mafeking, and with its native chiefs confined 
 within certain limits ; secondly, the British protec- 
 torate to the north of this over such chiefs asBatuen, 
 Pilan, Linchwe, and Sechele, extending vaguely to 
 the west into the Kalahari Desert, and bounded by 
 the Limpopo Eiver and the Dutchmen on the east ; 
 thirdly, the independent dominions of the native 
 chief Khama, who rules over a vast territory to the 
 north, and whose interests are entirely British, for 
 with their assistance only can he hope to resist the 
 attacks of his inveterate foe King Lobengula of 
 Matabeleland. 
 
 Two roads through Bechuanaland to Mashonaland 
 were open to us from Mafeking : the shorter one is 
 by the river, which, after the rains, is muddy and 
 fever-stricken ; the other is longer and less fre- 
 quented ; it passes through a corner of the Kalahari 
 Desert, and had the additional attraction of taking 
 us through the capitals of all the principal chiefs : 
 consequently, we unhesitatingly chose it, and it is 
 this which I now propose to describe. 
 
 We may dismiss the Crown colony of Bechuana- 
 land with a few words. It differs little from any
 
 THE KALAHARI DESERT ROUTE 7 
 
 other such colony in South Africa, and the natives 
 and their chiefs have little or no identity left to them. 
 Even the once famous Montsoia, chief of the Ba-rolongs 
 of Mafeking, has sunk into the lowest depths of 
 servile submission ; he receives a monthly pension of 
 25/., which said sum he always puts under his pillow 
 and sleeps upon ; he is avaricious in his old age, and 
 dropsical, and surrounded by women who delight to 
 wrap their swarthy frames in gaudy garments from 
 Europe. He is nominally a Christian, and has been 
 made an F.O.S., or Friend of Ally Sloper, and, as the 
 latter title is more in accordance with his tastes, he 
 points with pride to the diploma which hangs on the 
 walls of his hut. 
 
 From Mafeking to Kanya, the capital of Batuen, 
 chief of the Ba-Ngwatetse tribe, is about eighty miles. 
 At first the road is treeless, until the area is reached 
 where terminates the cutting down of timber for the 
 support of the diamond mines at Kimberley, a pro- 
 cess which has denuded all southern Bechuanaland 
 of trees, and is gradually creeping north. The rains 
 were not over when we started, and we found the 
 road saturated with moisture ; and in two days, near 
 the Ramatlabama River, our progress was just one 
 mile, in which distance our waggons had to be un- 
 loaded and dug out six times. But Bechuanaland 
 dries quickly, and in a fortnight after this we had 
 nothing to drink but concentrated mud, which made 
 our tea and coffee so similar that it was impossible 
 to tell the difference.
 
 8 ON THE ROAD TO THE RUINS 
 
 On one occasion during our midday halt we had 
 all our oxen inoculated with the virus of the lung 
 sickness, for this fatal malady was then raging in 
 Khama's country. Our waggons were placed side 
 by side, and with an ingenious contrivance of thongs 
 our conductor and driver managed to fasten the 
 plunging animals by the horns, whilst a string steeped 
 in the virus was passed with a needle through their 
 tails. Sometimes after this process the tails swell 
 and fall off; and up country a tailless ox has a 
 value peculiarly his own. It is always rather a 
 sickly time for the poor beasts, but as we only lost 
 two out of thirty-six from this disease we voted 
 inoculation successful. 
 
 I think Kanya is the first place where one realises 
 that one is in savage Africa. Though it is under 
 British protection it is only nominally so, to prevent 
 the Boers from appropriating it. Batuen, the chief, 
 is still supreme, and, like his father, Gasetsive, he is 
 greatly under missionary influence. He has stuck up 
 a notice on the roadside at the entrance to the town 
 in Sechuana, the language of the country, Dutch, and 
 English, which runs as follows : ' I, Batuen, chief of 
 Ba-Ngwatetse, hereby give notice to my people, and 
 all other people, that no waggons shall enter or leave 
 Kanya on Sunday. Signed, September 28th, 1889.' 
 If any one transgresses this law T Batuen takes an ox 
 from each span, a transaction in which piety and 
 profit go conveniently hand in hand. 
 
 Kanya is pleasantly situated amongst low hills
 
 THE KALAHARI DESERT ROUTE 9 
 
 well clad with trees. It is a collection of huts divided 
 into circular kraals hedged in with palisades, four to 
 ten huts being contained in each enclosure. These 
 are again contained in larger enclosures, forming 
 separate communities, each governed by its hereditary 
 sub-chief, with its kotla or parliament circle in its 
 midst. On the summit of the hill many acres are 
 covered with these huts, and there are also many in 
 the valley below. Certain roughly-constructed walls 
 run round the hill, erected when the Boers threat- 
 ened an invasion ; but now these little difficulties 
 are past, and Batuen limits his warlike tendencies 
 to quarrelling with his neighbours on the question 
 of a border line, a subject which never entered 
 their heads before the British influence came upon 
 them. 
 
 All ordinary matters of government and justice 
 are discussed in the large kotla before the chiefs own 
 hut ; but big questions, such as the border question, 
 are discussed at large tribal gatherings in the open 
 reldt. There was to be one of these gatherings of 
 Batuen's tribe near Kanya on the following Monday, 
 and we regretted not being able to stop and witness 
 so interesting a ceremony. 
 
 The town is quite one of the largest in Bechuana- 
 land, and presents a curious appearance on the 
 summit of the hill. The kotla is about 200 feet in 
 diameter, with shady trees in it, beneath which the 
 monarch sits to dispense justice. We passed an idle 
 afternoon therein, watching with interest the women
 
 10 ON THE ROAD TO THE RUINS 
 
 of Batuen's household, naked save for a skin loosely 
 thrown around them, lying on rugs before the palace, 
 and teaching the children to dance to the sound of 
 their weird music, and making the air ring with their 
 merry laughter. In one corner Batuen's slaves were 
 busy filling his granaries with maize just harvested. 
 His soldiers paraded in front of his house, and kept 
 their suspicious eyes upon us as we sat ; many of 
 them were quaintly dressed in red coats, which once 
 had been worn by British troops, and soft hats with 
 ostrich feathers in them, whilst their black legs were 
 bare. 
 
 Ma-Batuen, the chief's mother, received us some- 
 what coldly when we penetrated into her hut ; she 
 is the chief widow of old Gasetsive, Batuen's father, a 
 noted warrior in his day. The Sechuana tribes have 
 very funny ideas about death, and never, if possible, 
 let a man die inside his hut ; if he does accidentally 
 behave so indiscreetly they pull down the wall at the 
 back to take the corpse out, as it must never go out 
 by the ordinary door, and the hut is usually aban- 
 doned. Gasetsive died in his own house, so the wall 
 had to be pulled down, and it has never been 
 repaired, and is abandoned. Batuen built himself a 
 new palace, with a hut for his chief wife on his right, 
 and a hut for his mother on the left. His father's 
 funeral was a grand affair; all the tribe assembled to 
 lament the loss of their warrior chief, and he was laid 
 to rest in a lead coffin in the midst of his kotla. The 
 superstitious of the tribe did not approve of the coffin,
 
 THE KALAHARI DESERT ROUTE 11 
 
 and imagine that the soul may still be there making 
 frantic efforts to escape. 
 
 All the Ba-Ngwatetse are soldiers, and belong to 
 certain regiments or years. When a lot of the youths 
 are initiated together into the tribal mysteries 
 generally the son of a chief is amongst them, and 
 he takes the command of the regiment. In the old 
 ostrich-feather days Kanya was an important trading 
 station, but now there is none of this, and inasmuch 
 as it is off the main road north, it is not a place of 
 much importance from a white man's point of view, 
 and boasts only of one storekeeper and one mis- 
 sionary, both men of great importance in the place. 
 
 After Kanya the character of the scenery alters, 
 and you enter an undulating country thickly wooded, 
 and studded here and there with red granite kopjes, 
 or gigantic boulders set in rich green vegetation, 
 looking for all the world like pre-Eaphaelite Italian 
 pictures. Beneath a long kopje, sixteen miles from 
 Kanya, nestles Masoupa, the capital of a young chief, 
 the son of Pilan, who was an important man in his 
 day, and broke off from his own chief Linchwe, 
 bringing his followers with him to settle in the Ba- 
 Ngwatetse country as a sort of sub-chief with nominal 
 independence ; it is a conglomeration of bee-hive 
 huts, many of them overgrown with gourds, difficult 
 to distinguish from the mass of boulders around them. 
 When we arrived at Masoupa a dance was going on 
 a native Sechuana dance in consequence of the 
 full moon and the rejoicings incident on an abundant
 
 12 ON THE ROAD TO THE RUINS 
 
 harvest. In the kotla some forty or more men had 
 formed a circle, and were jumping round and round 
 to the sound of music. Evidently it was an old war 
 dance degenerated ; the sugar-cane took the place of 
 the assegai, many black legs were clothed in trousers, 
 and many black shoulders now wore coats ; but there 
 are still left as relics of the past the ostrich feather in 
 the hat, the fly whisk of horse, jackal, or other tail, 
 the iron skin-scraper round the neck, which repre- 
 sents the pocket-handkerchief amongst the Kaffirs 
 with which to remove perspiration ; the flute with 
 one or two holes, out of which each man seems to 
 produce a different sound ; and around the group of 
 dancing men old women still circulate, as of yore, 
 clapping their withered hands and encouraging 
 festivity. It was a sight of considerable picturesque- 
 ness amid the bee-hive huts and tall overhanging 
 rocks. 
 
 Masoupa was once the residence of a missionary, 
 but the church is now abandoned and falling into 
 ruins, because when asked to repair the edifice at 
 their own expense the men of Masoupa waxed wroth, 
 and replied irreverently that God might repair His 
 own house ; and one old man who received a blanket 
 for his reward for attending divine service is reported 
 to have remarked, when the dole was stopped, ' No 
 more blanket, no more hallelujah.' I fear me the 
 men of Masoupa are wedded to heathendom. 
 
 The accession of Pilan to the chiefdom of Masoupa 
 is a curious instance of the Sechuana marriage laws.
 
 THE KALAHARI DESERT ROUTE 13 
 
 A former chiefs heir was affianced young ; he died 
 at the age of eight, before succeeding his father, and, 
 according to custom, the next brother, Moshulilla, 
 married the woman ; their son was Pilan, who, on 
 coming of age, turned out his own father, being, as 
 he said, the rightful heir of the boy of eight, for 
 whom he, Moshulilla, the younger brother, had been 
 instrumental in raising up seed. There is a distinct 
 touch of Hebraic, probably Semitic, law in this, as 
 there is in many another Sechuana custom. 
 
 The so-called purchase of a wife is curious enough 
 in Bechuanaland. The intending husband brings 
 with him the number of bullocks he thinks the girl is 
 worth ; wisely, he does not offer all his stock at once, 
 leaving two or more, as the case may be, at a little 
 distance, for he knows the father will haggle and ask 
 for an equivalent for the girl's keep during childhood, 
 whereupon he will send for another bullock ; then 
 the mother will come forward and demand something 
 for lactation and other maternal offices, and another 
 bullock will have to be produced before the contract 
 can be ratified. In reality this apparent purchase of 
 the wife is not so barefaced a thing as it seems, for 
 she is not a negotiable article and cannot again be 
 sold ; in case of divorce her value has to be paid 
 back, and her children, if the purchase is not made, 
 belong to her own family. Hence a woman who is 
 not properly bought is in the condition of a slave, 
 whereas her purchased sister has rights which assure 
 her a social standing.
 
 14 ON THE ROAD TO THE RUINS 
 
 From Pilan's the northward road becomes hideous 
 again, and may henceforward be said to be in the 
 desert region of the Kalahari. This desert is not the 
 waste of sand and rock we are accustomed to imagine 
 a desert should be, but a vast undulating expanse of 
 country covered with timber the mimosa, or camel 
 thorn, the mapani bush, and others which reach the 
 water with their roots, though there are no ostensible 
 water sources above ground. 
 
 The Kalahari is inhabited sparsely by a wild tribe 
 known as the Ba-kalahari, of kindred origin to the 
 bushmen, whom the Dutch term Vaal-pens, or 'Fallow- 
 paunches,' to distinguish them from the darker races. 
 Their great skill is in finding water, and in dry seasons 
 they obtain it by suction through a reed inserted into 
 the ground, the results being spat into a gourd and 
 handed to the thirsty traveller to drink. Khama, 
 Sechele, and Batuen divide this vast desert between 
 them ; how far west it goes is unknown ; wild 
 animals rapidly becoming extinct elsewhere abound 
 therein. It is a vast limbo of uncertainty, which will 
 necessarily become British property when Bechuana- 
 land is definitely annexed ; possibly with a system 
 of artesian wells the water supply may be found 
 adequate, and it may yet have a future before it 
 when the rest of the world is filled to overflowing. 
 
 We saw a few of these children of the desert in 
 our progress northwards ; they are timid and diffi- 
 dent in the extreme, always avoiding the haunts of 
 the white man, and always wandering hither and
 
 15 
 
 tliither where rain and water may be found. On 
 their shoulders they carry a bark quiver filled with 
 poisoned arrows to kill their game. They produce 
 fire by dexterously rubbing two sticks together to 
 make a spark. At nightfall they cut grass and 
 branches to make a shelter from the wind ; they eat 
 snakes, tortoises, and roots which they dig up with 
 sharp bits of wood, and the contents of their food 
 bags is revolting to behold. They pay tribute in 
 kind to the above-mentioned chiefs skins, feathers, 
 tusks, or the mahatla berries used for making 
 beer and if these things are not forthcoming they 
 take a fine-grown boy and present him to the chief as 
 his slave. 
 
 Sechele is the chief of the Ba-quaina, or children 
 of the quaina, or crocodile. Their siboko, or tribal ob- 
 ject of veneration, is the crocodile, which animal they 
 will not kill or touch under any provocation whatso- 
 ever. The Ba-quaina are one of the most powerful 
 of the Bechuanaland feud tribes, and it often occurred 
 to me, Can the name Bechuanaland, for which nobody 
 can give a satisfactory derivation, and of which the 
 natives themselves are entirely ignorant, be a corrup- 
 tion of this name ? There have been worse corrup- 
 tions perpetrated by Dutch and English pioneers in 
 savage lands, and Ba-quainaland would have a deri- 
 vation, whereas Bechuanaland has none. 
 
 Sechele's capital is on the hills above the river 
 Molopolole, quite a flourishing place, or rather group 
 of places, on a high hill, with a curious valley or
 
 1C ON THE ROAD TO THE RUINS 
 
 kloof beneath it, where the missionary settlement is 
 by the river banks. Many villages of daub huts are 
 scattered over the hills amongst the red boulders and 
 green vegetation. In the largest, in quite a Euro- 
 pean-looking house, Sechele lives. Once this house 
 was fitted up for him in European style ; it contained 
 a glass chandelier, a sideboard, a gazogene, and a 
 table. In those days Sechele was a good man, and 
 was led by his wife to church ; but, alas ! this good 
 lady died, and her place was supplied by a rank 
 heathen, who would have none of her predecessor's 
 innovations. Now Sechele is very old and very 
 crippled, and he lies amid the wreck of all his 
 European grandeur ; chandelier, sideboard, gazogene, 
 are all in ruins like himself, and he is as big a heathen 
 and as big a sinner as ever wore a crown. So much 
 for the influence of women over their husbands, even 
 when they are black. 
 
 Sebele, the heir apparent, does all the executive 
 work of the country now, and the old man is left at 
 home to chew his sugar-cane and smoke his pipe. 
 Around the villages and in the hollow below the 
 native gardens or fields are very fertile ; maize, kaffir 
 corn, sugar-cane, grow here in abundance, and out 
 of the tall reeds black women came running to look 
 at us as we passed by, whose daily duty it is at this 
 season of the year to act as scarecrows, and save 
 their crops from the birds. Beneath the corn and 
 mealies they grow gourds and beans, and thereby 
 thoroughly exhaust the soil, which, after a season or
 
 THE KALAHARI DESERT ROUTE 17 
 
 two, is left fallow for a while ; and if the ground 
 becomes too bad around a town they think nothing 
 of moving their abodes elsewhere, a town being rarely 
 established in one place for more than fifty years. 
 
 From Sechele's town to Khama's old capital, 
 Shoshong, is a weary journey of over a hundred and 
 thirty miles through the Kalahari Desert, and through 
 that everlasting bush of mimosa thorn, which rose 
 like impenetrable walls on either side of us. Along this 
 road there is hardly any rising ground ; hence it is 
 impossible to see anything for more than a few yards 
 around one, unless one is willing to brave the dangers 
 of penetrating the bush, returning to the camp with 
 tattered garments and ruffled temper, if return you 
 can, for when only a few yards from camp it is quite 
 possible to become hopelessly lost, and many are the 
 stories of deaths and disappearances in this way, and 
 of days of misery spent by travellers in this bush 
 without food or shelter, unable to retrace their steps. 
 The impenetrableness of this jungle in some places 
 is almost unbelievable : the bushes of' wait-a-bit ' thorn 
 are absolutely impossible to get through ; every tree 
 of every description about here seems armed by 
 nature with its own defence, and lurking in the grass 
 is the ' grapple plant,' the Harpagophytumprocumbens, 
 whose crablike claws tear the skin in a most pain- 
 fully subtle way. The mimosas of many different 
 species which form the bulk of the trees in this bush 
 are also terribly thorny ; the Dutch call them camel 
 thorns, because the giraffes, or, as they call them, the 
 
 c
 
 18 ON THE ROAD TO THE RUINS 
 
 camel leopards, feed thereon. Why the Dutch should 
 be so perverse in the naming of animals I never can 
 discover ; to them the hysena is the wolf, the leopard 
 is the tiger, the kori-bustard is the peacock, and 
 many similar anomalies occur. 
 
 The botanist or the naturalist might here en]'oy 
 every hour of his day. The flowers are lovely, and 
 animal life is here seen in many unaccustomed forms 
 there are the quaint, spire-like ant-hills tapering to 
 pinnacles of fifteen feet in height ; the clustered nests 
 of the ' family bird,' where hundreds live together 
 in a sort of exaggerated honeycomb ; the huge 
 yellow and black spiders, which weave their webs 
 from tree to tree of material like the fresh silk of 
 silkworm, which, with the dew and the morning - 
 upon it, looks like a gauze curtain suspended in the 
 air. There are, too, the deadly puff adders, the 
 night adders, and things creeping innumerable, the 
 green tree snake stealthily moving like a coil of 
 fresh-cut grass ; and wherever there is a rocky kopje 
 you are sure to hear at nightfall the hideous screams 
 of the baboons, coupled with the laugh of the jackal. 
 But if you are not a naturalist these things pall upon 
 you after the sensation has been oft repeated, and 
 this was the case with us. 
 
 The monotony of the journey would now and 
 again be relieved by a cattle station, where the 
 servants of Sechele or Khama rear cattle for their 
 chiefs ; and these always occur in the proximity of 
 water, which we hailed with delight, even if it was
 
 THE KALAHARI DESERT ROUTE 
 
 19 
 
 only a muddy vley, or pond, trampled by the hoofs 
 of many oxen. These cattle stations are generally 
 large circular enclosures surrounded by a palisade, 
 with a tree in the middle, beneath which the inha- 
 
 MAKING THONGS OF OX-HIDE 
 
 bitants sit stitching at their carosses, or skin rugs, in 
 splendid nudity. All manner of skins hang around ; 
 hunks of meat in process of drying ; hide thongs are 
 fastened from branch to branch like spiders' webs, 
 which they stretch on the branches to make ' reiins '
 
 20 ON THE ROAD TO THE RUINS 
 
 for waggon harness ; consequently the air is not too 
 fragrant, and the flies an insupportable nuisance. 
 
 One evening we reached one 'of these kraals after 
 dark, and a weird and picturesque sight it was. 
 Having penetrated through the outer hedge, where 
 the cattle were housed for the night, we reached 
 inner enclosures occupied by the families and their 
 huts. They sat crouching over their fires, eating 
 their evening meal of porridge, thrusting long sticks 
 into the pot, and transferring the stiff paste to their 
 mouths. In spite of the chilliness of the evening, they 
 were naked, save for a loin-cloth and their charms 
 and amulets. A man stood near, playing on an instru- 
 ment like a bow with one string, with a gourd attached 
 to bring out the sound. He played it with a bit of 
 wood, and the strains were plaintive, if not sweet. 
 
 Another night we reached a pond called Selynia, 
 famed all the country round, and a great point of 
 rendezvous for hunters who are about to penetrate 
 the desert. In this pond we intended to do great 
 things in the washing line, and tarry a whole day for 
 this purpose ; but it was another disappointment to 
 add to the many we had experienced on this road, for 
 it was nothing but a muddy puddle trampled by oxen, 
 from which we had difficulty in extracting enough 
 liquid to fill our barrels. Needless to say, we did not 
 stay for our proposed washing day, but hurried on. 
 
 It was a great relief to reach the hills of Sho- 
 shong, the larger trees, the cactus-like euphorbia, and 
 the richer vegetation, after the long flat stretch of
 
 THE KALAHARI DESERT ROUTE 21 
 
 waterless bush-covered desert, and we were just now 
 within the tropic of Capricorn. The group of hills 
 is considerable, reaching an elevation of about 800 
 feet, and with interesting views from the summits. 
 In a deep ravine amongst these hills lie the ruins of 
 the town of Shoshong, the quondam capital of the 
 chief Khama and the Ba-mangwato tribe. It is an 
 interesting illustration of the migratory spirit of the 
 race. The question of moving had long been dis- 
 cussed by Khama and his head men, but the European 
 traders and missionaries at Shoshong thought it would 
 never take place. They built themselves houses and 
 stores, and lived contentedly. 
 
 Suddenly, one day, now three years ago, without 
 any prefatory warning, Khama gave orders for the 
 move, and the exodus commenced on the following 
 morning. The rich were exhorted to lend their 
 waggons and their beasts of burden to the poor. 
 Each man helped his neighbour, and, in two months, 
 15,000 individuals were located in their new home at 
 Palapwe, about sixty miles away, where water is plenti- 
 ful and the soil exceedingly rich. Thus was Sho- 
 shong abandoned. Scarcity of water was the immediate 
 cause of the migration, for there was only one slender 
 stream to water the whole community, and whole 
 rows of women with their jars would stand for hours 
 awaiting their turn to fill them from the source up 
 the valley, which in the dry season barely trickled. 
 
 Everything was arranged by Khama in the most 
 beautiful manner. He and his head men had been
 
 22 ON THE ROAD TO THE RUINS 
 
 over at Palapwe for some time, and had arranged the 
 allotments, so that every one on his arrival went 
 straight to the spot appointed, built his hut, and 
 surrounded it with a palisade. Not a murmur or a 
 dispute arose amongst them. In reality it w T as the 
 knowledge of British support which enabled Khama 
 to carry out this plan. Shoshong, in its rocky ravine, 
 is admirably situated for protection from the Mata- 
 bele raids. When a rumour of the enemy's approach 
 was received, the women and children were hurried 
 off with provisions to the caves above the town, 
 whilst Khama and his soldiers protected the entrance 
 to the ravine. Pa!apwe, on the contrary, is open 
 and indefensible, and would be at once exposed to 
 the raids of Lobengula were it not for the camp of 
 the Bechuanaland Border Police at Macloutsie, and 
 the openly avowed support of Great Britain. 
 
 The desolate aspect of the ruined town, as 
 seen to-day, is exceedingly odd. The compounds or 
 enclosures are all thickly overgrown with the castor- 
 oil plant. The huts have, in most cases, tumbled in ; 
 some show only walls, with the chequered and diaper 
 patterns still on them so beloved by the inhabitants 
 of Bechuanaland ; others are mere skeleton huts, with 
 only the framework left. The poles which shut in the 
 cattle kraals have, in many instances, sprouted, and 
 present the appearance of curious circular groves dedi- 
 cated to some deity. The brick houses of European 
 origin are the most lasting, the old stores and abodes of 
 traders, but even these can now hardly be approached
 
 THE KALAHARI DESERT ROUTE 23 
 
 by reason of the thick thorn bushes which, in so 
 short a space of time, have grown up around them. 
 Far up the ravine is the missionary's house, itself 
 a ruin overlooking the ruined town. Baboons, and 
 owls, and vicious wasps now inhabit the rooms 
 where MofTat lived and Livingstone stayed. There 
 is not a vestige of human life now to be seen within 
 miles of Shoshong, which was, three years ago, the 
 capital of one of the most enlightened chiefs of South 
 Africa. 
 
 I must say I looked forward with great interest 
 to seeing a man with so wide a reputation for in- 
 tegrity and enlightenment as Khama has in South 
 Africa. Somehow, one's spirit of scepticism is on the 
 alert on such occasions, especially when a negro is 
 the case in point ; and I candidly admit that I ad- 
 vanced towards Palapwe fully prepared to find the 
 chief of the Ba-mangwato a rascal and a hypocrite, 
 and that I left his capital, after a week's stay there, 
 one of his most fervent admirers. 
 
 Not only has Khama himself established his repu- 
 tation for honesty, but he is supposed to have inocu- 
 lated all his people with the same virtue. No one is 
 supposed to steal in Khama's country. He regulates 
 the price of the goat you buy ; and the milk vendor 
 dare not ask more than the regulation price, nor can 
 you get it for less. One evening, on our journey from 
 Shoshong to Palapwe, we passed a loaded waggon by 
 the roadside with no one to guard it save a dog ; 
 and surely, we thought, such confidence as this im-
 
 24 ON THE E,0 AD TO THE RUINS 
 
 plies a security for property rare enough in South 
 Africa. 
 
 The aspect of Palapwe is very pleasant. Fine 
 timber covers the hill slopes. A large grassy square, 
 shaded by trees, and with a stream running through 
 it, has been devoted to the outspanning of the many 
 waggons which pass through here. There are as yet 
 but few of those detestable corrugated-iron houses, 
 for the Europeans have wisely elected to dwell in 
 daub huts, like the natives. Scattered far and wide 
 are the clusters of huts in their own enclosures, 
 governed by their respective indunas. 
 
 High up on the hillside Khama has allotted the 
 choicest spot of all to his spiritual and political 
 adviser, Mr. Hepburn, the missionary. From here a 
 lovely view extends over mountain and plain, over 
 granite kopje and the meandering river-bed, far away 
 into the blue distance and the Kalahari. Behind the 
 mission house is a deep ravine, thick set with tropical 
 vegetation, through which a stream runs, called Foto- 
 foto, which at the head of the gorge leaps over steep 
 rocks, and forms a lovely cascade of well-nigh a 
 hundred feet ; behind the ravine, on the rocky 
 heights, baboons and other wild animals still linger, 
 perturbed in mind, no doubt, at this recent occupa- 
 tion of their paradise. 
 
 Everything in Khama's town is conducted with 
 the rigour one might almost say bigotry of 
 religious enthusiasm. The chief conducts in person 
 native services, twice every Sunday, in his large round
 
 THE KALAHARI DESERT ROUTE 25 
 
 kotla, at which he expects a large attendance. He 
 stands beneath the traditional tree of justice, and 
 the canopy of heaven, quite in a patriarchal style. 
 He has a system of espionage by which he learns the 
 names of those who do not keep Sunday properly, 
 and he punishes them accordingly. He has already 
 collected 3,000/. for a church which is to be built at 
 Palapwe. 
 
 The two acts, however, which more than anything 
 else display the power of the man, and perhaps his 
 intolerance, are these. Firstly, he forbids all his 
 subjects to make or drink beer. Any one who knows 
 the love of a Kaffir for his porridge-like beer, and his 
 occasional orgies, will realise what a power one man 
 must have to stop this in a whole tribe. Even the 
 missionaries have remonstrated with him on this 
 point, representing the measure as too strong ; but 
 lie replies, ' Beer is the source of all quarrels and 
 disputes. I will stop it.' Secondly, he has put a 
 stop altogether to the existence of witch doctors and 
 their craft throughout all the Ba-mangwato another 
 instance of his force of will, when one considers that 
 the national religion of the Sechuana is merely a 
 belief in the existence of good and bad spirits which 
 haunt them and act on their lives. All members of 
 other neighbouring tribes are uncomfortable if they 
 are not charmed by their witch doctor every two or 
 three days. 
 
 Like the other Bechuana tribes, the Ba-mangwato 
 have a totem which they once revered. Theirs is the
 
 26 ON THE ROAU TO THE RUINS 
 
 duyker, a sort of roebuck ; and Khama's father, old 
 Sikkome, would not so much as step on a duyker-skin. 
 Khama will now publicly eat a steak of that animal 
 to encourage his men to shake off their belief. In 
 manner the chief is essentially a gentleman, courteous 
 and dignified. He rides a good deal, and prides him- 
 self on his stud. On one occasion he did what I doubt 
 if every English gentleman would do. He sold a horse 
 for a high price, which died a few days afterwards, 
 whereupon Khama returned the purchase money, 
 considering that the illness had been acquired pre- 
 vious to the purchase taking place. On his waggons 
 he has painted in English, ' Khama, Chief of the Ba- 
 mangwato.' They say he understands a great deal 
 of our tongue, but he never trusts himself to speak it, 
 alw ays using an interpreter. 
 
 An instance of Khama's system of discipline came 
 under our notice during our stay at Palapwe. At- 
 tracted by the sound of bugles, I repaired very early 
 one morning to the kotla, and there saw men in all 
 sorts of quaint dresses, with arms, and spades, and 
 picks, mustering to the number of about 200. On 
 enquiry, I was told that it was a regiment which had 
 misbehaved and displeased the chief in some way. 
 The punishment he inflicted on them was this : that 
 for a given period they were to assemble every day 
 and go and work in the fields, opening out new land 
 for the people. There is something Teutonic in 
 Khama's imperial discipline, but the Bechuana are 
 made of different stuff to the Germans. They are by
 
 THE KALAHARI DESERT ROUTE 2l 
 
 nature peaceful and mild, a race with strong pastoral 
 habits, who have lived for years in dread of Matabele 
 raids ; consequently their respect for a chief like 
 Khama who has actually on one occasion repulsed 
 the foe, and who has established peace, prosperity, 
 and justice in all his borders is unbounded, and his 
 word is law. 
 
 Khama pervades everything in his town. He is 
 always on horseback, visiting the fields, the stores, 
 and the outlying kraals. He has a word for every 
 one ; he calls every woman ' my daughter,' and 
 every man ' my son ; ' he pats the little children on 
 the head. He is a veritable father of his people, a 
 curious and unaccountable outcrop of mental power 
 and integrity amongst a degraded and powerless race. 
 His early history and struggles with his father and 
 brothers are thrilling in the extreme, and his later 
 development extraordinary. Perhaps he may be 
 said to be the only negro living whose biography 
 \vould repay the writing. 
 
 The blending of two sets of ideas, the advance of 
 the new and the remains of the old, are curiously 
 conspicuous at Palapwe, and perhaps the women illus- 
 trate this better than the men. On your evening 
 walk you may meet the leading black ladies of the 
 place, parasol in hand, with hideous dresses of gaudy 
 cottons, hats with flowers and feathers, and display- 
 ing as they walk the airs and graces of self-conscious- 
 ness. A little further on you meet the women of the 
 lower orders returning from the fields, with baskets
 
 ^8 ON THE ROAD TO THE RUINS 
 
 on their heads filled with green pumpkins, bright 
 yellow mealy pods, and rods of sugar cane. A skin 
 caross is thrown over their shoulders, and the rest of 
 their mahogany-coloured bodies is nude, save for a 
 leopard-skin loin-cloth, and armlets and necklaces of 
 bright blue beads. Why is it that civilisation is 
 permitted to destroy all that is picturesque ? Surely 
 we, of the nineteenth century, have much to answer 
 for in this respect, and the missionaries who teach 
 races, accustomed to nudity by heredity, that it is a 
 good and proper thing to wear clothes are responsible 
 for three evils firstly, the appearance of lung diseases 
 amongst them ; secondly, the spread of vermin 
 amongst them ; and thirdly, the disappearance from 
 amongst them of inherent and natural modesty. 
 
 It had been arranged that on our departure from 
 Palapwe we should take twenty-five of Khama's men 
 to act as excavators at the ruins of Zimbabwe. One 
 morning, at sunrise, when we were just rising from 
 our waggons, and indulging in our matutinal yawns, 
 Khama's arrival was announced. The chief walked 
 in front, dignified and smart, dressed in well-made 
 boots, trousers with a correct seam down each side, 
 an irreproachable coat, a billycock hat, and gloves. 
 If Khama has a vice it is that of dress, and, curiously 
 enough, this vice has developed more markedly in his 
 son and heir, who is to all intents and purposes a 
 black masher and nothing else. Khama is a neatly- 
 made, active man of sixty, who might easily pass for 
 twenty years younger ; his face sparkles with intelli-
 
 THE KALAHARI DESERT ROUTE 29 
 
 gence ; he is, moreover, shrewd, and looks carefully 
 after the interests of his people, who in days scarcely 
 yet gone by have been wretchedly cheated by un- 
 scrupulous traders. Behind him, in a long line, 
 walked the twenty-five men that he proposed to place 
 at our disposal, strangely enough dressed in what 
 might be termed the ' transition style.' Ostrich 
 feathers adorned all their hats. One wore a short 
 cutaway coat, which came down to the small of his 
 back, and nothing else. Another considered himself 
 sufficiently garbed with a waistcoat and a fly whisk. 
 They formed a curious collection of humanity, and 
 all twenty-five sat down in a row at a respectful 
 distance, whilst we parleyed with the chief. Luckily 
 for us our negotiations fell through owing to the diffi- 
 culties of transport ; and, on inspection, I must say I 
 felt doubtful as to their capabilities. Away from the 
 influence of their chief, and in a strange country, I 
 feel sure they would have given us endless trouble. 
 
 We left Khama and his town with regret on our 
 journey northwards. A few miles below Palapwe 
 we crossed the Lotsani River, a series of semi-stagnant 
 pools, even after the rainy season, many of which 
 pools were gay just then with the lotus or blue water 
 lily (Nymphcea stellata]. The water percolates through 
 the sand, which has almost silted it up, and a little 
 further on we came across what they call a ' sand 
 river.' Not a trace of water is to be seen in the 
 sandy bed, but, on digging down a few feet, you 
 come across it.
 
 30 ON THE ROAD TO THE RUINS 
 
 The future colonisation and development of this 
 part of Bechuanaland is dependent on the question of 
 water, pure and simple. If artesian wells can be sunk, 
 if water can be stored in reservoirs, something may 
 be done ; but, at present, even the few inhabitants of 
 Khama's country are continually plunged in misery 
 from drought. 
 
 North of Palapwe we met but few inhabitants, 
 and, after passing the camp of the Bechuanaland 
 Border Police at Macloutsie, we entered what is 
 known as the ' debatable country,' between the terri- 
 tories of Khama and Lobengula, and claimed by both. 
 It is, at present, uninhabited and unproductive, flat 
 and uninteresting, and continues as far as Fort Tuli, 
 on the Shashi Eiver, after crossing which we entered 
 the country which comes under the direct influence 
 of Lobengula, the vaguely defined territory which 
 under the name of Mashonaland is now governed 
 by the Chartered Company.
 
 31 
 
 CHAPTER II 
 
 FIRST IMPRESSIONS OF MASHONALAND 
 
 WE left Fort Tuli on May 9, 1891, and for the 
 ensuing six months we sojourned in what is now 
 called Mashonaland ; of our doings therein and of 
 our wanderings this volume purports to be the narra- 
 tive. Besides our excavations and examinations into 
 the ruins of a past civilisation, the treatment of 
 which is necessarily dry and special, and, for the 
 benefit of those who care not about such things, has 
 been, as far as possible, confined within the limits of 
 Part II., we had ample time for studying the race 
 which now inhabits the country, inasmuch as we 
 employed over fifty of them during our excavations 
 at Zimbabwe, and during our subsequent wanderings 
 we had them as bearers, and we were brought into 
 intimate relationship with most of their chiefs. 
 The Chartered Company throughout the whole of this 
 period kept us supplied with interpreters of more or 
 less intelligence, who greatly facilitated our inter- 
 course with the natives, and as time went by a 
 certain portion of the language found its way into
 
 32 ON THE EOAD TO THE RUINS 
 
 our own brains, which was an assistance to us in 
 guiding conversations and checking romance. 
 
 All the people and tribes around Zimbabwe, 
 down to the Sabi Eiver and north to Fort Charter 
 and this is the most populous part of the whole 
 country call themselves by one name, though they 
 are divided into many tribes, and that name is 
 Makalanga. In answer to questions as to nationa- 
 lity they invariably call themselves Makalangas, 
 in contradistinction to the Shangans, who inhabit 
 the east side of the Sabi Eiver. 'You will find 
 many Makalangas there,' 'A Makalanga is buried 
 there,' and so on. The race is exceedingly nu- 
 merous, and certain British and Dutch pioneers 
 have given them various names, such as Banyai 
 and Makalaka, which latter they imagine to be a 
 Zulu term of reproach for a limited number of people 
 who act as slaves and herdsmen for the Matabele 
 down by the Shashi and Lundi Eivers. I contend 
 that all these people call themselves Makalangas, and 
 that their land should by right be called Maka- 
 langaland. 
 
 In this theory, formed on the spot from inter- 
 course with the natives, I was glad to find afterwards 
 that I am ably supported by the Portuguese writer 
 Father dos Santos, to whom frequent allusion will be 
 made in these pages. He says, ' The Monomatapa 
 and all his vassals are Mocarangas, a name which they 
 have because they live in the land of Mocaranga, and 
 talk the language called Mocaranga, which is the best
 
 FIRST IMPRESSIONS 33 
 
 and most polished of all Kaffir languages which I 
 have seen in this Ethiopia.' Couto, another Portu- 
 guese writer, bears testimony to the same point, and 
 every one knows the tendency of the Portuguese to 
 substitute r for /. Umtali is called by the Portuguese 
 Umtare; 1 'bianco' is 'branco' in Portuguese, and 
 numerous similar instances could be adduced ; 
 hence with this small Portuguese variant the 
 names are identical. Father Torrend, in his late 
 work on this part of the country, states, 'The 
 Karanga certainly have been for centuries the para- 
 mount tribe of the vast empire of Monomatapa,' and 
 the best derivation that suggests itself is the initial 
 Ma orBa, ' children,' ka, ' of,' langa, ' the sun.' They 
 are an Abantu race, akin to the Zulus, only a weaker 
 branch whose day is over. Several tribes of Bakalanga 
 came into Natal in 1720, forced down by the power- 
 ful Zulu hordes, with traditions of having once formed 
 a part of a powerful tribe further north. Three 
 centuries and a half ago, when the Portuguese first 
 visited the country, they were then all-powerful in 
 this country, and were ruled over by a chief with the 
 dynastic name of Monomatapa, which community 
 split up, like all Kaffir combinations do after a gene- 
 ration or so, into a hopeless state of disintegration. 2 
 
 1 M', which looks so mysterious in all African books, is supposed 
 to express that the first syllable may be pronounced either urn or mu ; 
 there are four correct ways of pronouncing the name in question, 
 Umtali or Mutare, Umtare or Mutali. The English have adopted the 
 first and the Portuguese the second. 
 
 Vide Chap. VII. 
 
 D
 
 34 ON THE ROAD TO THE EUIXS 
 
 Each petty chief still has his high-sounding dynastic 
 name, like the Monomatapa or the Pharaoh of his 
 day. Chibi, M'tegeza, M'toko, and countless lesser 
 names are as hereditary as the chiefdoms themselves, 
 and each chief, as he succeeds, drops his own identity 
 and takes the tribal appellative. Such, briefly, is the 
 political aspect of the country we are about to 
 enter. 
 
 This is a strange, weird country to look upon, and 
 after the flat monotony of Bechuanaland a perfect 
 paradise. The granite hills are so oddly fantastic in 
 their forms ; the deep river-beds so richly luxuriant 
 in their wealth of tropical vegetation ; the great bao- 
 bab trees, the elephants of the vegetable world, so 
 antediluvian in their aspect. Here one would never 
 be surprised to come across the roc's egg of Sind- 
 bad or the golden valley of Easselas ; the dreams 
 of the old Arabian story-tellers here seem to have a 
 reality. 
 
 Our first real intercourse with the natives was at a 
 lovely spot called Inyamanda, where we ' outspanned ' 
 on a small plain surrounded by domed granite kopjes, 
 near the summit of one of which is a cluster of villages. 
 
 Here we unpacked our beads and our cloth, and 
 commenced African trading in real earnest ; what 
 money we had we put away in our boxes, and never 
 wanted it again during our stay in the country. The 
 naked natives swarmed around us like flies, with 
 grain, flour, sour milk, and honey, which commodities 
 can be acquired for a few beads ; but for a sheep
 
 FIRST IMPRESSIONS 35 
 
 they wanted a blanket, ibr meat is scarce enough and 
 valuable amongst this much-raided people. We lost 
 an ox here by one of the many sicknesses fatal to 
 cattle in this region, and the natives hovered round 
 him like vultures till the breath was out of his body ; 
 they then fell on him and tore him limb from limb, 
 and commenced their detestable orgy. As one 
 watched them eat, one could imagine that it is not 
 so many generations since they emerged from a state 
 of cannibalism. 
 
 We found it a tough climb to the villages through 
 the luxuriant verdure of cactus-like euphorbia, india- 
 rubber tree, the castor-oil, and acacia with lovely red 
 ilowers. At an elevation of live hundred feet above 
 our waggons were the mud huts of the people, 
 and up here every night they drive their cattle into 
 extraordinary rock stables for safety. Perched on 
 the rocks are countless circular granaries, constructed 
 of bright red mud and thatched with grass. One 
 .would think that a good storm of wind would blow 
 them all away, so frail do they seem. 
 
 Bounding a corner of the hill we came across a 
 second village, nestling amongst stupendous boulders, 
 and ascending again a little higher we reached a 
 third by means of a natural tunnel in the rock, 
 fortified, despite its inaccessible position, with pali- 
 sades. 
 
 The natives were somewhat shy of us, and fled to 
 rocky eyries from whence to contemplate us, seated 
 in rows in all sorts of uncomfortable angles, for all 
 
 D 2
 
 36 ON THE ROAD TO THE RUINS 
 
 the world like monkeys. They are utterly unac- 
 customed to postures of comfort, reclining at night- 
 time on a grass mat on the hard ground, with their 
 necks resting on a wooden pillow, curiously carved ; 
 they are accustomed to decorate their hair so fantas- 
 tically with tufts ornamentally arranged and tied up 
 
 WOODEN PILLOW 
 
 with beads that they are afraid of destroying the 
 effect, and hence these pillows. 
 
 These pillows are many of them pretty objects, 
 and decorated with curious patterns, the favourite 
 one being the female breast, and resting on legs which 
 had evidently been evolved out of the human form.
 
 FIRST IMPRESSIONS 37 
 
 They bear a close and curious resemblance to the 
 wooden head-rests used by the Egyptians in their 
 tombs to support the head of the deceased, specimens 
 of which are seen in the British Museum. They are 
 common all over Africa, and elsewhere amongst savage 
 
 A.VCIENT EGYPTIAN PILLOW IN THE BRITISH MUSEUM 
 
 tribes where special attention is paid to the decora- 
 tion of the hair. . 
 
 A Makalanga is by nature vain, and particular 
 about the appearance of his nudity ; the ladies have 
 fashions in beads and cloths, like our ladies at home,
 
 3-8 
 
 ON THE ROA1) TO THE RUINS 
 
 and before visiting a fresh kraal our men used to 
 love to polish themselves like mahogany, by chewing 
 the monkey-nut and rubbing their skins with it, 
 good-naturedly doing each other's backs and inacces- 
 sible corners. Somehow they know what becomes 
 them too, twisting tin ornaments, made from our 
 meat tins, into their black hair. Just now they will 
 
 WOODEN DOLLASSES OR DIVINING TABLETS 
 
 have nothing but red beads with white eyes, which 
 they thread into necklaces and various ornaments, 
 and which look uncommonly well on their dark skins ; 
 and though it seems somewhat paradoxical to say so 
 of naked savages, yet I consider no one has better 
 taste in dress than they have until a hybrid civilisa- 
 tion is introduced amongst them. 
 
 . Prom many of the huts at Inyamanda were hang-
 
 FIRST IMPRESSIONS 39 
 
 ing their dollasses wooden charms, on which are 
 drawn strange figures. Each family possesses a set 
 of four tied together by a string. Of these four one 
 always has a curious conventional form of a lizard 
 carved on it ; others have battle axes, diamond patterns, 
 and so forth, invariably repeating themselves, and the 
 purport of which I was never able to ascertain. They 
 are common amongst all the Abantu races, and 
 closely bound up with their occult belief in witchcraft ; 
 they are chiefly made of wood, but sometimes neat 
 
 BOXE DOLLASSES 
 
 little ones of bone are found, a set of which I after- 
 wards obtained. 
 
 On the evening of the new moon they will seat 
 themselves in a circle, and the village witch doctor 
 will go round, tossing each man's set of dollasses in 
 the air, and by the way they turn up he will divine 
 the fortune of the individual for the month that is to 
 come. 
 
 There are many odds and ends of interest scattered 
 about a Makalanga village ; there is the drum, from 
 two to four feet in height, covered with zebra or 
 other skin, platted baskets for straining beer, and
 
 40 
 
 ON THE ROAD TO THE RUINS 
 
 long-handled gourds, with queer diagonal patterns in 
 black done upon them, which serve as ladles. Most 
 of their domestic implements are made of wood- 
 wooden pestles and wooden mortars for crushing 
 
 GOURDS FOR BALING WATER 
 
 grain, wooden spoons and wooden platters often 
 decorated with pretty zigzag patterns. Natural 
 objects, too, are largely used for personal ornaments. 
 Anklets and necklaces are made out of mimosa pods ; 
 necklaces, really quite pretty to look upon, are con-
 
 FIRST IMPRESSIONS 
 
 41 
 
 structed out of chicken bones birds' claws and beaks, 
 and the seeds of various plants, are constantly em- 
 ployed for the same purpose. Grass is neatly woven 
 into chaplets, and a Makalanga is never satisfied un- 
 less he has a strange bird's feather stuck jauntily in 
 his woolly locks. 
 
 Never shall I forget the view from the summit of 
 Inyamanda Eock over the country ruled over by the 
 
 WOODEN BOWL 
 
 WOODEN MORTAR 
 
 WOODEN PORRIDGE BOWL 
 
 chief M'atipi ; the horizon is cut by countless odd 
 peaked kopjes, some like spires, some like domes, 
 grey and weird, rising out of rich vegetation, getting 
 bluer and bluer in the far distance, and there is 
 always something indescribably rich about the blue- 
 ness of an African distance. As we descended 
 we passed a wide-spreading tree hung with rich 
 yellow maize pods drying in the sun. Here, too, the 
 bright coral red flowers of the Erythrina kaffra were
 
 42 ON THE ROAD TO THE RUIXS 
 
 just coming out. Richness of colour seemed to per- 
 vade everything. 
 
 It was immediately on crossing the Lundi Elver, 
 the threshold of the country as it were, that we were 
 introduced to the first of the long series of ancient 
 ruins which formed the object of our quest. By 
 diligent search amongst the gigantic remains at Zim- 
 babwe we were able to repeople this country with a 
 race highly civilised in far distant ages, a race far 
 advanced in the art of building and decorating, a 
 gold-seeking race who occupied it like a garrison in 
 the midst of an enemy's country. Surely Africa is a 
 mysterious and awe-inspiring continent, and now in 
 the very heart of it has been found work for the 
 archaeologist, almost the very last person who a short 
 time ago would have thought of penetrating its vast 
 interior. Quid novi ex Africa ? will not be an ob- 
 solete phrase for many generations yet to come. 
 
 The Lundi River was the only one of the great 
 rivers which flow through this portion of the country 
 which gave us any real trouble. Our waggons had 
 to be unloaded and our effects carried across in a 
 boat, and the waggons dragged through the rushing 
 stream by both teams of oxen ; it was an -exciting 
 scene, and the place was crowded with people in the 
 same condition as ourselves. On reaching the left 
 bank we halted in a shady spot, and encamped for 
 two days, in order to give our oxen rest and to study 
 the ruin. It was a very charming spot, with fine rocky 
 kopjes here and there, rich vegetation, and the dull
 
 FIRST IMPRESSIONS 4o 
 
 roar of the fine stream about fifty feet below us. From 
 one of the kopjes we got a lovely view up the river, 
 over the thickly wooded flats on either side and the 
 Bufwa range of mountains beyond. 
 
 The country beyond the Lundi is thickly populated, 
 with native villages perched on rocky heights, many 
 of which we saw as we wended our slow way through 
 
 V O 
 
 the Naka pass. One hill is inhabited by a tribe of 
 human beings, the next by a tribe of baboons, and I 
 must say these aborigines of the country on the face 
 of it seem more closely allied to one another than 
 they are to the race of white men, who are now ap- 
 propriating the territory of both. The natives, living 
 as they do in their hill-set villages on the top of the 
 granite kopjes, are nimble as goats, cowardly yet 
 friendly to the white stranger. They are constantly 
 engaged in intertribal wars, stealing each other's 
 women and cattle when opportunity occurs, and 
 never dreaming of uniting against the common enemy, 
 the Zulu, during whose periodical raids they perch 
 themselves on the top of their inaccessible rocks, and 
 look down complacently on the burning of their huts, 
 the pillaging of their granaries, and the appropriation 
 of their cattle. Under the thick jungle of trees by 
 the roadside as we passed along we saw many acres 
 under cultivation for the produce of sweet potatoes, 
 beans, and the ground or monkey nut (Arachis). They 
 make long neat furrows with their hoes beneath the 
 trees, the shade of which is necessary for their crops. 
 They are an essentially industrious race, far more so
 
 44 
 
 ON THE EOAD TO THE RUINS 
 
 than the Kaffirs of our South African colonies. Here 
 the men work in the fields, leaving the women to 
 make pots, build granaries, and carry w T ater. In the 
 Colony women are the chief agriculturists. 
 
 WOMAN'S GIRDLE, WITH CARTRIDGE CASES, SKIN-SCRAPERS. AND 
 MEDICINE PHIALS ATTACHED 
 
 We spent a long and pleasant day within a few 
 yards of another village called M'lala in Chibi's 
 country, also perched on a rocky eminence, where 
 many objects of interest came before our notice. 
 
 Here for the first time we saw the iron furnaces in
 
 FIRST IMPRESSIONS 4o 
 
 which the natives smelt the iron ore they obtain from 
 the neighbouring mountains. This is a time-honoured 
 industry in Mashonaland. Dos Santos alludes to it 
 in his description, and 
 so do Arab writers of 
 the ninth and tenth 
 centuries, as practised 
 by the savages of their 
 day. 1 InChibi's country 
 iron-smelting is a great 
 industry. Here whole 
 villages devote all their 
 time and energies to it, 
 tilling no land and keep- 
 ing no cattle, but ex- 
 changing their iron- 
 headed assegais, barbed 
 arrow-heads, and field 
 tools for grain and such 
 domestic commodities as 
 they may require. I am 
 told also of villages which, AYOODEN HAIR COMB, CHIBI'S COUNTRY 
 
 after the same fashion, 
 
 have a monopoly of pot-making. This industry is 
 mostly carried on by the women, who deftly build up 
 with clay, on round stands made for the purpose, 
 large pots for domestic use, which they scrape smooth 
 with large shells kept for this object, and then they 
 give them a sort of black glaze with plumbago. In 
 
 1 Chap. VII.
 
 4G 
 
 ON THE ROAD TO THE RUINS 
 
 exchange for one of these pots (her <j[et as much irrain 
 
 O JL t/ O 
 
 as it will hold. 
 
 The native iron furnace is a curious object to look 
 upon. It is made of clay, and is another instance of 
 the design being taken from the human form, for it is 
 made to represent a seated woman ; the head is the 
 chimney, decorated in some cases with eyes, nose, and 
 mouth, resting on shoulders ; the legs are stretched 
 out and form the .sides of the furnace, and to complete 
 
 the picture they decorate 
 the front with breasts 
 and the tattoo decora- 
 tions usually found on 
 female stomachs. 1 They 
 heat the charcoal in the 
 furnace by means of air 
 pumped out of goat-skin 
 bellows through clay 
 blow-pipes fixed into the 
 embers. It is a quaint 
 sight to see them at 
 work with all their com- 
 modities pillows, knives, and assegais, fixed on to the 
 reed walls which shut off the forge from the outer 
 world. 
 
 At M'lala too we were first introduced to the 
 women who have their stomachs decorated with many 
 long lines, or 'cicatrices. Between thirty and forty of 
 these lines ran across their stomachs, executed with 
 
 1 Vide illustration, ch. x. 
 
 GRANARY DECORATED WITH BREAST 
 AND FURROW PATTERN
 
 FIRST IMPRESSIONS 
 
 47 
 
 surprising regularity, and resembling the furrows on a 
 ploughed field. In vain we tried to photograph and 
 count them. On one occasion I succeeded in counting 
 sixteen furrows, when the bashful female ran away, and 
 
 WOODEN PILLOW REPRESENTING HUMAN FORM 
 
 I think I had done about half. This is the favourite 
 pattern in Chibi's country and with the neighbour- 
 ing dependent tribes for female decoration, and they 
 admire it so much that they put it also on their 
 drums, on their granaries, and on their pillows, and,
 
 48 
 
 ON THE ROAD TO THE RUINS 
 
 as I have said, on their forges. ' The breast and 
 furrow ' pattern, one might technically term it, and 
 I fancy it has to do with an occult idea of fertility. 
 
 One of these oddly marked ladies was busily 
 engaged in building a granary on a rock. She first 
 lays a circular foundation of mud, into which she puts 
 
 IRON SKIN-SCRAPER 
 
 NEEDLES IN CASES 
 
 sticks. On to these she plasters mud until the funnel- 
 shaped thing is about three feet high. A hole is left 
 near the top for inserting and extracting the grain, 
 and it is then thatched with grass ; and it effectually 
 keeps out the many rats and mice which swarm IE 
 these parts. The costume of these natives is ex-
 
 FIRST IMPRESSIONS 49 
 
 tremely limited. A man is content with two cat-skins, 
 one in front and one behind, though the latter is not 
 always de rigueur. The women wear leathern aprons 
 and girdles, tied so tightly as almost to cut them in 
 two, and made of several long strips of leather, like* 
 boot-laces fastened together. On to these they hang 
 all the necessaries of their primitive life. At present 
 old cartridge cases are the fashion for holding snuff, 
 or decorated reeds, or wooden cases. Then they have 
 a few decorated bone ornaments, evidently of a mystic 
 character ; a skin-scraper or two with which to per- 
 form their toilette, which articles are of the form and 
 shape of the strigil known to us from classical times, 
 and the ends of the boot-laces are elegantly finished 
 off with brass or copper beads. The needle, too, is a 
 feature seldom absent from the man's neck and girdle, 
 being a sharp-pointed bit of iron or brass with which 
 they pierce the skins and fasten them together with 
 threads of bark ; these needles are fitted into a 
 wooden case, which the more fanciful decorate with 
 bands of brass wire. 
 
 At M'lala too we saw the blind witch-doctor of 
 the village, dressed in all his savage toggery. Small 
 gourds with seeds inside to rattle were tied to his 
 calves. These are the fruit of the Oncoba spinosa. A 
 buck's horn with a chain was hung round his neck, 
 with which he made a hideous noise. Odd chains 
 of beads decorated his neck, made out of the pods 
 of the Acacia litakunensis, and his arms and lejjs 
 
 ' c? 
 
 were a mass of brass bracelets and anklets ; and 
 
 E
 
 50 ON THE ROAD TO THE RUINS 
 
 his hair resplendent with feathers completed the 
 fantastic appearance of this poor blind man, who 
 danced before us unceasingly, and made such hideous 
 noises that we were obliged to give him some beads 
 and ask him to stop. 
 
 The pass through which the road leads up from 
 the river country to Fort Victoria is now called 
 ' Providential,' by reason of the fact that the pioneer 
 force of the Chartered Company did not know how 
 to get over the range of hills rising to the north of 
 the Tokwe Eiver, until Mr. Selous chanced to hit on 
 this gully between the mountains leading up to the 
 higher plateau. Its scenery, to my mind, is distinctly 
 overrated. It is green and luxuriant in tropical 
 vegetation, with the bubbling stream Godobgwe 
 running down it. The hills on either side are fairly 
 fine, but it could be surpassed easily in Wales arid 
 Scotland, or even Yorkshire. In point of fact, the 
 scenery of Mashonaland is nothing if not quaint. 
 Providential Pass is distinctly commonplace, whereas 
 the granite kopje scenery is the quaintest form of 
 landscape I have ever seen. 
 
 Fort Victoria has no redeeming point of beauty 
 about it whatsoever, being placed on a bare flat 
 plateau, surrounded in the rainy season by" swamps. 
 Nearly everybody was down with fever when we 
 got there ; provisions were at famine prices for ex- 
 ample, seven shillings for a pound of bacon and the same 
 price for a tin of jam and the melancholy aspect of 
 affairs was enhanced by the hundred and fifty saddles
 
 FIRST IMPRESSIONS 51 
 
 placed in rows within the fort, which had once 
 belonged to the hundred and fifty horses brought up 
 by the pioneers, all of which had died of horse 
 sickness. 
 
 The diseases to which quadrupeds are subject in 
 this country are appalling. One man of our acquaint- 
 ance brought up eighty-seven horses, of which eighty- 
 six died before he got to Fort Victoria. The still 
 mysterious disease called horse sickness is supposed 
 to come from grazing in the early dew, but of this 
 nobody is as yet sure ; the poor animals die in a few 
 hours of suffocation, and none but ' salted horses,' i.e. 
 horses which have had the disease and recovered, are 
 of any use up here. Our three horses were war- 
 ranted salted, but this did not prevent one of them 
 from having a recurrence of the disease, which gave 
 us a horrible fright and caused us to expend a whole 
 bottle of whisky on it, to which we fondly imagine it 
 owes its life. Another horse also gave us a similar 
 alarm. One morning its nose was terribly swollen, and 
 the experienced professed to see signs of the sickness 
 in its eye. Nevertheless nothing came of it, and in 
 due course the swelling went down. On close enquiry 
 we discovered that it had been foolishly tied for the 
 night to a euphorbia tree, and had pricked its nose 
 with the poisonous thorns. 
 
 As for oxen, the diseases they are subject to make 
 one wonder that any of them ever get up country 
 alive ; besides the fatal lung sickness they suffer from 
 what is called the ' drunk sickness,' a species of 
 
 E 2
 
 52 OX THE ROAD TO THE RUINS 
 
 staggers. When we reached Zimbabwe nearly all 
 our oxen developed the mange and swollen legs, but 
 recovered owing to the long rest. Besides these casu- 
 alties they often die from eating poisonous grasses ; 
 also in some parts the unwholesome herbage, or 
 ' sour veldtj as it is known amongst the drivers, pro- 
 duces kidney diseases and other horrors amongst 
 them. 
 
 All around Fort Victoria, they told us, the grass was 
 sour, so we only remained there long enough to make 
 our preparations for our excavations at Zimbabwe. 
 Tools of all descriptions we had luckily brought with 
 us from Fort Tuli, as there were none here when Ave 
 arrived. In fact the dearth of everything struck us 
 forcibly, but by this time doubtless all this will be 
 remedied, for we were amongst the first waggons to 
 come up after the rains, and now Fort Victoria, with 
 the recent discovery of good gold reefs in its imme- 
 diate vicinity, is bound to become an important place. 
 
 From Fort Victoria our real troubles of progres- 
 sion began. It is only fourteen miles from there to 
 the great Zimbabwe ruins by the narrow Kaffir path, 
 and active individuals have been known to go there 
 and back in a day. It took us exactly seven days to 
 traverse this distance with our waggons. The cutting 
 down of trees, the skirting of swamps, the making of 
 corduroy bridges, were amongst the hindrances which 
 impeded our progress. For our men it was a per- 
 petual time of toil ; for us it was a week of excessive 
 weariness.
 
 FIRST IMPRESSIONS 53 
 
 For two nights we were ' outspanned ' by the edge 
 of a deep ravine, at the bottom of which was a swampy 
 stream. This had to be bridged with trees and a road 
 made up and down the banks before our waggons 
 could cross over it. A few hundred yards from this 
 spot the river M'shagashi flowed, a considerable 
 stream, which is within easy reach of Zimbabwe and 
 eventually makes its way down to the Tokwe. On its 
 banks we saw several crocodiles basking, and conse- 
 quently resisted the temptation to bathe. 
 
 By diving into the forests and climbing hills we 
 came across groups of natives who interested us. It- 
 was the season just then in which they frequent the 
 forests the ' barking season,' when they go forth to 
 collect large quantities of the bark of certain trees, 
 out of which they produce so much that is useful 
 for their primitive lives. They weave textiles out of 
 bark ; they make bags and string out of bark ; they 
 make quivers for their arrows, beehives for their bees, 
 and sometimes granaries, out of bark. The bark 
 industry is second only to the iron-smelting amongst 
 the Makalangas. 
 
 At the correct season of the year they go off in 
 groups into the forests to collect bark, taking with 
 them their wives and their children, carrying with 
 them their assegais, and fine barbed arrows with 
 which they shoot mice, a delicacy greatly beloved by 
 them ; they take with them also bags of mealies for 
 food, and collect bags of caterpillars brown hairy 
 caterpillars three inches long, which at this season
 
 54 OX THE ROAD TO THE RUINS 
 
 of the year swarm on the trees. These they disem- 
 bowel and eat in enormous quantities, and what they 
 cannot eat on the expedition they dry in the sun 
 and take home for future consumption. Their only 
 method of making a fire is by rubbing two sticks 
 dexterously together until a spark appears, with which 
 they ignite some tinder carried in a little wooden 
 box attached to their girdles. At night time they 
 cut down branches from the trees, and make a 
 shelter for themselves from the wind. It is curious 
 to see a set of natives asleep, like sardines in a box, 
 one black naked lump of humanity ; if one turns or 
 disturbs the harmony of the pie they all get up and 
 swear at him and settle down again. One man is always 
 told off to watch the fire to keep off wild beasts, and 
 then when morning comes they pack their belongings, 
 their treasures of bark, mice, and caterpillars, and 
 start off along the narrow path in single file at a 
 tremendous pace, silent for a while, and then bursting 
 forth into song, looking for all the world like a pro- 
 cession of black caterpillars themselves. 
 
 These forests around Zimbabwe are lovely to 
 wander in, with feathery festoons of lichen, like a 
 fairy scene at a pantomime ; outside the forests are 
 long stretches of coarse grass, towering above our 
 heads in many cases, and horrible to have to push 
 through, especially after a fall of rain. They were 
 then in seed, and looked just like our harvest 
 fields at home, giving a golden tinge to the whole 
 country.
 
 FIRST IMPRESSIONS 55 
 
 Fine trees perched on the summit of colossal ant- 
 hills cast a pleasant shade around, and if by chance 
 we were near a stream we had to be careful not to 
 fall into game pits, deep narrow holes hidden by the 
 long grass, which the natives dig in the ground and 
 towards which they drive deer and antelope, so that 
 they get their forelegs fixed in them and cannot get 
 out. 
 
 All around Zimbabwe is far too well watered to 
 be pleasant ; long stretches of unhealthy swamps fill 
 up the valleys ; rivers and streams are plentiful, and 
 the vegetation consequently rich. Owing to the 
 surrounding swamps we had much fever in our camp 
 during our two months' stay ; as we had our waggons 
 with us we could not camp on very high ground, and 
 suffered accordingly. This fever of the high veldt 
 with plenty of food and plenty of quinine is by no 
 means dangerous, only oft-recurring and very weak- 
 ening. Of the fourteen cases we had under treatment 
 none were really dangerously ill, and none seemed to 
 suffer from bad effects afterwards when the fever had 
 worn itself out. The real cause of so much mortality 
 and misery amongst the pioneer force during their 
 first wet season in the country was the 'want of 
 nourishing food to give the fever patients and the 
 want of proper medicine. 
 
 As for the natives themselves, I cannot help saying 
 a few words in their favour, as it has been customary 
 to abuse them and set their capabilities down as 
 nought. During the time we were at Zimbabwe we
 
 56 ON THE ROAD TO THE RUINS 
 
 were constantly surrounded by them, and employed 
 from fifty to sixty of them for our work, and the only 
 thing we lost was half a bottle of whisky, which we 
 did not set down to the natives, who as yet are happily 
 ignorant of the potency of fire-water. Doubtless on 
 the traversed roads and large centres, where they are 
 brought into contact with traders and would-be 
 civilisers of the race, these people become thieves and 
 vagabonds ; but in their primitive state the Makalangas 
 are naturally honest, exceedingly courteous in manner, 
 and cowardice appears to be their only vice, arising 
 doubtless from the fact that for generations they have 
 had to flee to their fastnesses before the raids of 
 more powerful races. The Makalanga is a,bove the 
 ordinary Kaffir in intelligence. Contrary to the 
 prognostications of our advisers, we found that some 
 of them rapidly learnt their work, and were very 
 careful excavators, never passing over a thing of 
 value, which is more than can be said of all the 
 white men in our employ. Some of them are de- 
 cidedly handsome, and not at all like negroes except 
 in skin ; many of them have a distinctly Arab cast of 
 countenance, and with their peculiar rows of tufts on 
 the top of their heads looked en projil like the figures 
 one sees on Egyptian tombs. There is certainly a 
 Semite drop of blood in their veins ; whence it comes 
 will probably never be known, but it is marked both 
 on their countenances and in their customs. In 
 religion they are monotheists that is to say, they 
 believe in a supreme being called Muali, between
 
 FIRST IMPRESSIONS 57 
 
 \vhom and them their ancestors, or mozimos, to whom 
 they sacrifice, act as intercessors. They lay out food 
 for their dead ; they have a day of rest during the 
 ploughing season, which they call Muali's Day ; they 
 have dynastic names for their chiefs, like the Pharaohs 
 of old ; they sacrifice a goat toward off pestilence and 
 famine ; circumcision is practised amongst some of 
 them. We have also the pillows or head rests, 
 the strigil, the iron sceptres of the chiefs, the 
 iron industry, all with parallels from the north. 
 Then, again, their musical instruments, their games, 
 and their totems point distinctly to an Arabian 
 influence, which has been handed down from genera- 
 tion to generation long after the Arabians have ceased 
 to have any definite intercourse with the country. 
 During the course of these pages numerous minor 
 illustrations will from time to time appear which 
 point in the same direction. It is a curious 
 ethnological problem which it will be hard to unravel. 
 All over the country sour milk is much drunk and 
 (ailed mast, as it is in the East, and in parts of this 
 country beer is called dowra or doro, a term which 
 has come from Abyssinia and Arabia, and the method 
 of making it is the same. The corn is soaked in 
 water and left till it sprouts a little ; then it is spread 
 in the sun to dry and mixed with unsprouted grain ; 
 then the women pound it in wooden mortars, and the 
 malt obtained from this is boiled and left to stand in 
 a pot for two days, and over night a little malt that 
 has been kept for the purpose is thrown over the
 
 58 OX THE ROAD TO THE RUINS 
 
 liquid to excite fermentation. It will not keep at all, 
 and is sometimes strong and intoxicating. Women 
 are the great brewers in Mashonaland, and a good 
 wife is valued according to her skill in this 
 department. 
 
 This Kaffir beer is certainly an old-world drink. 
 There are several classical allusions for what is termed 
 ' barley beer.' Xenophon and the Ten Thousand one 
 evening, on reaching an Armenian village in the 
 mountains of Asia Minor, refreshed themselves with 
 what he describes as ' bowls of barley wine in which 
 the grains are floating.' 
 
 The Egyptians too made beer after the same 
 fashion, and used it also in sacrifices. Much that 
 was known in the old world has travelled southwards 
 through Nubia and Abyssinia, and is to be found still 
 amongst the Kaffir races of to-day. Some of the 
 words in common use amongst the Kaffirs in Masho- 
 naland are very curious. Anything small, whether 
 it be a child or to indicate that the price paid for 
 anything is insufficient, they term piccanini ; the 
 word is universal, and points to intercourse with 
 other continents. The term Morunko, or Molunyo, 
 universally applied to white men, is probably of 
 Zulu origin, and has been connected with what 
 reason I know not with Unhdunkulu, a term to 
 denote the Supreme Being. At any rate it is dis- 
 tinctly a term of respect, and certainly has nothing 
 to do with the Masliona language, in which Muali or 
 Mali is used to denote God.
 
 FIRST IMPRESSIONS 59 
 
 Finally, at long last, after exactly three months to 
 a day of ' trekking ' in our ox waggons, the mighty 
 ruins of Zimbabwe were reached on June 6, 189], 
 and we sat down in the wilderness to commence our 
 operations, with the supreme delight of knowing that 
 for two months our beds would not begin to shake 
 and tumble us about before half our nights were over.
 
 60 ON THE ROAD TO THE KUINS 
 
 CHAPTER III 
 
 CAMP LIFE AND WORK AT ZIMBABWE 
 
 OUR camp was pitched on slightly rising ground 
 about 200 yards from the large circular ruin at 
 Zimbabwe, and was for the space of two months a 
 busy centre of life and work in the midst of the 
 wilderness. There were our two waggons, in which 
 we slept ; hard by was erected what our men called 
 an Indian terrace, a construction of grass and sticks 
 in which we ate, and which my. wife decorated with 
 the flowers gathered around us the brilliant red 
 spokes of the flowering aloes, which grew in magni- 
 ficent fiery clusters all over the rocks, the yellow 
 everlasting (Helipterum incanuni}, which grew in pro- 
 fusion in a neighbouring swamp, wreaths of the 
 pink bignonia, festoons of which decorated the ruins 
 and the neighbouring kraal. Besides these she had 
 the red flowers of the Indian shot (Canna indica\ 
 which was found in abundance on the hill fortress, 
 fronds of the Osmunda regalis and tree fern, the white 
 silky flowers of the sugar tree (Protea mellifera), and 
 many others at her disposal, a wealth of floral decor- 
 ation which no conservatory at home could supply.
 
 MRS. THEODORE BENT
 
 CAMP LIFE AND WORK AT ZIMBABWE 03 
 
 Our tent was our drawing-room ; and in addition 
 to these places of shelter there were the photographic 
 dark tent, five feet six square, the kitchen, and the 
 white men's sleeping-room, cleverly constructed out 
 of the sails of our waggons, with walls of grass. In 
 the centre was an erection for our cocks and hens, 
 but even from here the jackals occasionally contrived 
 to steal one or two. Around the whole camp ran a 
 skerm, or hedge, of grass, which latter adjunct gave 
 a comfortable and concentrated feeling to it all. 
 Outside our circle the native workmen erected for 
 themselves three or four huts, into which they all 
 huddled at night like so many sardines in a tin. 
 Around us in every direction grew the tall, wavy 
 grass of the veldt, rapidly approaching the time when 
 it can be burnt. This time was one of imminent 
 peril for our camp ; the flames, lashed to fury by the 
 wind, approached within a few yards of us. Men 
 with branches rushed hither and thither, beating the 
 advancing enemy with all their might ; our grass 
 hedge was rapidly pulled down, and we trembled for 
 the safety of our Indian terrace. Suddenly a spark 
 caught the huts of the natives, and in a few moments 
 they were reduced to ashes, and the poor shivering 
 occupants had to spend the night in a cave in the 
 rocks behind. Luckily the strenuous efforts of our 
 men were successful in keeping the flames from our 
 camp, and we were thankful when this business was 
 over. Instead of the tall, wavy grass, reeking with 
 moisture when it rained and rotting in the heat of
 
 64 ON THE ROAD TO THE RUINS 
 
 the sun, we had now around us a black sea of ashes, re- 
 calling the appearance of the vicinity of a coal mine ; 
 but though less picturesque it was far more healthy, 
 and during the last weeks of our slay at Zimbabwe 
 the attacks of fever were less frequent and less severe. 
 
 From Fort Victoria came over during our stay a 
 whole host of visitors to see how we were getting on. 
 Prospecting parties going northwards tarried at Fort 
 Victoria for a rest, and came over to see the wondrous 
 ruins of Zimbabwe. Englishmen, Dutchmen from the 
 Transvaal, Germans, all sorts and conditions of men 
 came to visit us, and as temporary custodians of 
 the ruins we felt it our duty to personally conduct 
 parties over them, thereby hearing all sorts and con- 
 ditions of opinions as to the origin of the same. One 
 of our friends told us that they reminded him forcibly 
 of the Capitol of Borne ; another, of a religious turn of 
 mind, saw in them an exact parallel to the old walls of 
 Jerusalem ; and a Dutchman, after seeing over them, 
 told me that he was convinced that they must be just 
 ' one tousand year old, and built in the reign of Queen 
 Shabby.' The names of King Solomon and the Queen 
 of Sheba were on everybody's lips, and have become 
 so distasteful to us that we never expect to hear them 
 again without an involuntary shudder. 
 
 Thus our two months' stay at Zimbabwe can in 
 no way be >said to have been dull. We had our daily 
 work from eight in the morning till sundown, with 
 an hour at midday for luncheon and repose. Out of 
 the working days we lost nine from rain, a curious
 
 65 
 
 soaking misty rain which always came on with a high 
 south-east wind, and always, oddly enough, with 
 a rise in the barometer, very exceptional, we were 
 told, at that season of the year. Over these days I 
 would willingly draw a veil ; they were truly miser- 
 able and always resulted in fresh outbreaks of fever 
 amongst us. With the exception of these nine days 
 the weather was simply delicious, fresh, balmy, and 
 sunny ; after sundown and our evening meal we 
 would sit around our camp fire discussing our finds 
 of the day and indulging in hopes for the morrow. 
 Most of our white men were musical, and beguiled 
 the monotony of the evening hours by a series of 
 camp concerts, which made us intimately acquainted 
 with all the latest music-hall ditties. Occasionally 
 rations of Cape brandy, better known as dop, would 
 be sent out to the B.S. A. men in our employ ; then the 
 evening's fun became fast and furious, and on two 
 occasions caused us no little anxiety. Luckily these 
 rations were always consumed on the night of their 
 arrival, and though the following morning revealed a 
 headache or two, and an occasional attack of fever, 
 we always rejoiced to see the bottles empty and to 
 know that the orgy would not be repeated for perhaps 
 a fortnight. 
 
 Umgabe is the dynastic name of the petty chief 
 whose territory includes the Zimbabwe ruins ; he 
 recognises the suzerainty of Chibi, but is to all intents 
 and purposes a free ruler. He came the day after 
 our arrival to visit us, and then we were intro-
 
 66 
 
 duced to the Makalanga custom of hand- clapping. The 
 mysterious meaning attached to this hand-clapping I 
 was afterwards able in a measure to fathom. 1 On the 
 arrival of a chief or grand induna the hand-clapping 
 is a serious undertaking, and has to go on incessantly 
 until the great man is seated and bids them stop. 
 Umgabe was glad to see us, he said, and had no in- 
 tention of interrupting our proposed work, provided 
 only we agreed to one thing, and that was to leave 
 his women alone. As for ourselves and our white 
 men, we answered that he need have no fear, but as for 
 our negro workmen we would not hold ourselves re- 
 sponsible for them, but suggested that, as they would 
 all be his subjects, he must see to them himself. 
 
 Umgabe is a huge fat man, tall and dignified, 
 though naked ; around his neck he has a string of large 
 white Venetian beads of considerable antiquity, brought 
 doubtless to this country by Arabian traders in the 
 Middle Ages ; in his hand he carries his iron sceptre, 
 the badge of a chief, and his battle axe is lavishly 
 decorated with brass wire. Amongst his men we saw 
 many of varied types, some distinctly Arabian in fea- 
 tures, and I am bound to say the Kaffir type amongst 
 them was the exception and by no means the rule. 
 Arched noses, thin lips, and a generally refined type 
 of countenance are not, as a rule, prominent features 
 amongst those of pure Kaffir blood, but they are com- 
 mon enough around Zimbabwe. 
 
 We made arrangements with Umgabe about our 
 
 1 Chap. X.
 
 CAMP LIFE AND WORK AT ZIMBABWE 69 
 
 work, and collected together a team of thirty indivi- 
 duals who were to do our digging, &c., for the wages 
 of one blanket a month, which blankets cost 4s. 1(M 
 apiece at Fort Tuli, and probably half that in England. 
 For this reward they were to work and also find them- 
 selves in everything ; it is the present stipulated 
 rate of wages in the country, but I do not expect it 
 will remain so long. 
 
 We had great difficulties with them at first. 
 Spades and picks were new to nearly all of them ; they 
 were idle ; they were afraid of us, and also of the chief 
 on the hill. If it was cold they would sit crouched 
 over small fires of wood, and appear numb and utterly 
 incapable of work. Then they insisted on eating at the 
 inconvenient hour of 10.30 A.M. food brought for them 
 by their women, paste of millet meal and caterpillars ; 
 and for every little extra duty they clamoured for a 
 present, or a parsella, as they called it. These diffi- 
 culties gradually disappeared. Some of them became 
 excellent hands with pick and shovel ; they got accus- 
 tomed to us and our hours, and worked with a will, 
 and for a teaspoonful of beads they would do any 
 amount of extra work. Their chief skill was dis- 
 played in clearing. I almost despaired of getting rid 
 of the thick jungle which filled the large circular 
 ruin, so that it was almost impossible to stir in it. 
 This they contrived to do for us in three or four days, 
 hacking away at stout trees and branches with their 
 absurd little hatchets, and obtaining the most satis- 
 factory results. Also they were excellent at removing
 
 70 
 
 ON THE ROAD TO THE IttJtNS 
 
 piles of fallen stones, singing as they worked and 
 urging one another on. Altogether we had no cause 
 to complain of our workmen when confidence had 
 been thoroughly established between us. Poor 
 cowardly things that they are, anything like harsh- 
 ness made them run away at once. Our cook, whose 
 temper was exceedingly capricious, one day pursued 
 his native kitchen boy with a hatchet, and he never 
 could get a kitchen boy to stay with him after that ; 
 they would poke their fun at him and rouse his ire 
 exceedingly, but always at a respectful distance. 
 
 From the many villages on the heights around 
 Zimbabwe came every day crowds of natives, bring- 
 ing provisions for sale, and we held a 
 regular market in our camp. By this 
 means we got as many cocks and hens 
 as we wanted, eggs, milk, honey, and 
 sweet potatoes ; then they would brino- 
 us tomatoes, the largest I have ever 
 seen, chillies, capers, rice, and monkey 
 nuts. Some of these, I am told on 
 excellent authority, are distinct pro- 
 ducts of the New World, the seeds of 
 which must have originally been brought 
 by Dutch, Portuguese, and Spanish 
 traders and given in exchange for the commodities 
 of the country ; now they form an integral part of 
 the diet of these people and prove to us how the 
 ends of the world were brought together long before 
 our time. 
 
 HATCHET
 
 CAMP LIFE AND WORK AT ZIMBABWE 
 
 71 
 
 These daily markets were times of great excite- 
 ment for us, for, besides giving us an insight into their 
 ways and life, we found it an excellent time to acquire 
 
 CAEVED KNIVES 
 
 for a few beads their native ornaments, 
 their knives they are particularly ingenious, 
 sheath of these knives generally ends in a curious con- 
 
 In carving 
 The
 
 72 ON THE ROAD TO THE RUINS 
 
 ventional double foot ; the handle too seems intended 
 to represent a head. Here again it would appear that 
 they take the human form as a favourite basis for a 
 design. 
 
 Also their snuff-boxes are many and varied in 
 form ; some are made of reeds decorated with black 
 geometrical patterns, some of hollowed-out pieces 
 of wood decorated with patterns and brass wire, 
 also they have their grease-holders similarly deco- 
 rated, all pointing to a high form of ingenuity. . 
 
 They were very glad to get good English powder 
 from us ; but, nevertheless, before this advent of the 
 white man they made a sort of gunpowder of their 
 own, reddish in colour and not very powerful, speci- 
 mens of which we acquired. The art must have been 
 learnt from the Portuguese traders and passed up 
 country from one village to another. From a species 
 of cotton plant they produce a very fair equivalent 
 for the genuine article, which they spin on spindles 
 and make into long strings. When the natives found 
 we cared for their ornaments they 
 brought them in large quantities, 
 and our camp was inundated 
 with knives, snuff-boxes, bowls, 
 pottery, and all manner of odd 
 things. They were cunning too in 
 their dealings, bringing one by one 
 
 BONE ORNAMENTS . r 11 .> 
 
 into camp small baskets lull 01 
 meal and other commodities from a large store out- 
 side, realising that in this way they got many more
 
 ' CAMP LIFE AND WORK AT ZIMBABWE 73 
 
 beads and more stretches of limbo than if they 
 brought it all at once. As for Umgabe himself, his 
 chief kraal and residence was six miles away, and 
 we saw but little of him after the first excitement of 
 our arrival had worn off; but his brother Ikomo, 
 the induna of the kraal on the hill behind the ruins, 
 often came down to see us, and was a constant source 
 of annoyance, seeing that his friendly visits had 
 always some ulterior motive of getting something 
 out of us. On one of these occasions my wife had 
 collected a beautiful bowl of honey ; the rascal Ikomo 
 first eyed it with covetousness and then plunged his 
 hand into the very midst thereof, and enjoyed his 
 fingers complacently for some time after, whilst she 
 in disgust had to throw away the best part of her 
 treasure. 
 
 Frequently Ikomo would try to interrupt our 
 work, and so frighten our black diggers from other 
 villages that they ran away, and we had to collect a 
 fresh team. On one occasion, whilst digging upon 
 the fortress, we disturbed a large rock, which slipped. 
 On it was perched one of their granaries, which 
 promptly fell to pieces, and the contents were scat- 
 tered far and wide. In vain we offered to pay for the 
 damage done ; almost in no time we were surrounded 
 by a screaming crowd of angry men and women, 
 with Ikomo at their head, brandishing assegais and 
 other terrible weapons of war. For a moment the 
 affair looked serious ; all our blacks fled in haste, and 
 we, a small band of white men surrounded by the foe,
 
 74 
 
 ON THE ROAD TO THE RUINS 
 
 were doubtful what course to pursue. At length we 
 determined to stand their insults no longer, and 
 seizing whatever was nearest spade, pick, or shovel 
 we rushed at them, and forthwith Ikomo and his 
 valiant men fled like sheep before us, clambering up 
 rocks, chattering and screaming like a cageful of 
 monkeys at the Zoo. Sir John Willoughby and one 
 
 WOODEN SNUFF-BOXKS 
 
 or two men from Fort Victoria chanced to come over 
 that day to visit us, and on hearing of our adventure 
 he summoned Ikomo to a palaver, and told him that 
 if such a thing happened again his kraal would be 
 burnt to the ground and his tribe driven from the 
 hill; and the result of this threat was that Ikomo 
 troubled us no more.
 
 CAMP LIFE AND WORK AT ZIMBABWE 75 
 
 \ 
 
 Ikomo's kraal occupies a lovely situation on 
 Zimbabwe Hill, with huts nestling in cosy corners 
 amongst the rocks, from the top of which lovely 
 views can be obtained over the distant Bessa and 
 Inyuni ranges on the one side, and over the Livouri 
 range, and Providential Pass on the other, whilst 
 to the south the view extends over a sea of 
 rugged kopjes down into the Tokwe valley. From 
 this point the strategical value of the hill is at once 
 grasped, rising as it does sheer out of a well-watered 
 plain, unassailable from all sides, the most command- 
 ing position in all the country round. The village is 
 festooned with charming creepers, bignonia and 
 others, then in full flower ; rows of granaries decorate 
 the summit, and in the midst are some of those 
 quaint trees which they use as larders, hanging there- 
 from the produce of their fields neatly tied up in 
 long grass packages, which look like colossal German 
 sausages growing from the branches. 
 
 On one of the few flat spaces in the village is 
 kept the village drum, or 'tom-tom,' constantly in 
 use for dances. One day we found the women of the 
 village hard at work enjoying themselves round this 
 drum, dancing a sort of war dance of their own. It 
 was a queer sight to see these women, with deep 
 furrows on their naked stomachs, rushing to and fro, 
 stooping, kneeling, shouting, brandishing battle axes 
 and assegais, and going through all the pantomime 
 of war, until at last one of these Amazons fell into 
 hysterics, and the dance was over. On another occa-
 
 76 ON THE ROAD TO THE RUINS 
 
 sion, whilst visiting some ruins in a lovely dale about 
 eight miles from Zimbabwe, we were treated to an- 
 other sort of dance by the women of a neighbouring 
 village. The chief feature in the performance was a 
 grotesque one, and consisted of smacking their fur- 
 rowed stomachs and long hanging breasts in measured 
 cadence with the movements of their feet, so that the 
 air resounded with the noise produced. 
 
 As for the men, they are for ever dancing, either 
 a beer drink, the new moon, or simple, unfeigned 
 joviality being the motive power. Frequently on cold 
 evenings our men would dance round the camp fire ; 
 always the same indomba, or war dance ; round and 
 round they went, shouting, capering, gesticulating. 
 Now and again scouts would be sent out to recon- 
 noitre, and would engage in fight with an imaginary 
 foe, and return victorious to the circle. If one had not 
 had personal experience of their cowardice, one might 
 almost have been alarmed at their hostile attitudes. On 
 pay-day, when our thirty workmen each received a 
 blanket for their month's work, they treated us to a 
 dance, each man wrapped in his new acquisition. 
 Umgabe, with his sceptre and battle axe, conducted 
 the proceedings ; it was a most energetic and ridicu- 
 lous scene to witness, as the blankets whirled round 
 in the air and the men shouted and yelled with 
 joy. When all was over, each man measured his 
 blanket with his neighbour, to see that he had not 
 been cheated, and, gaily chattering, they wended 
 their way to the village, with their blankets trailing
 
 3AMP LIFE AND WORK AT ZIMBABWE 
 
 77 
 
 behind thtni. The novelty of possessing a blanket 
 was an intense joy to these savages. One tottering 
 old man was amongst our workmen, and seeing his 
 incapacity, I was about to discard him, but his 
 longing for a blanket was so piteous ' to sleep in a 
 
 BOY BEATING DRUM 
 
 blanket once before he died ' that he was allowed 
 to continue and do what he could to earn one. 
 
 Dancing is the one great dissipation of the Maka- 
 langa's life ; he will keep it up for hours without 
 tiring at their great beer-drinking feasts, at weddings 
 =~nay, even at funerals. At these latter ceremonies
 
 78 ON THE ROAD TO THE RT'TXS 
 
 they will not allow a white man to be present, so 
 that what they do is still a mystery ; but we heard 
 repeatedly the incident festivities after a death had 
 taken place the shouting, the dancing, and the 
 hideous din of the ' tom-tom.' One day a native 
 
 DRUM DECORATE!) WITH ' BREAST 
 AND FURROW ' PATTERN 
 
 PLAIN DRUM 
 
 turned up at our camp with some curious carrot-like 
 roots in his hand. On enquiry as to what he was 
 going to do with them he replied that he was going 
 to a funeral, and that they chewed this root and spat 
 it out for it is poisonous at these ceremonies. The 
 natives call this root amouni.
 
 CAMP LIFE AND WORK AT ZIMBABAVE 79 
 
 In our work at Zimbabwe we unwittingly opened 
 several of their graves amongst the old ruins. The 
 corpse had been laid out on a reed mat the mat, 
 probably, on which he had slept during life. His bowl 
 and his calabash were placed beside him. One of 
 these graves had been made in a narrow passage in 
 the ancient walls on the fortress. We were rather 
 horrified at what we had done, especially as a man 
 came to complain, and said that it was the grave of 
 his brother, who had died a year before ; so we filled 
 up the aperture and resisted the temptation to pro- 
 ceed with our excavations at that spot. After that 
 the old chief Ikomo, whenever we started a fresh place, 
 came and told us a relation of his was buried there. 
 This occurring so often, we began to suspect, and 
 eventually proved, a fraud. So we set sentiment 
 aside and took scientific research as our motto for 
 the future. 
 
 In the tomb of a chief it is customary to place a 
 bowl of beer, which is constantly replenished for the 
 refreshment of the spirit, for they are great believers 
 in making themselves agreeable to the departed, and 
 at the annual sacrificial feast in honour of the dead 
 meat and beer are always allotted to the spirits of 
 their ancestors. 
 
 One day as we were digging in a cave we came 
 across the skeleton of a goat tied on to a mat with 
 bark string ; by its side was the carved knife, with 
 portions of the goat's hair still adhering to it. Here 
 we had an obvious instance of sacrifice, a sacrifice
 
 80 
 
 ON THE ROAD TO THE RUINS 
 
 which takes place, I believe, to avert some calamity- 
 famine, war, or pestilence which at the time threatens 
 the community. The natives were very reticent on 
 the point, but visibly annoyed at our discovery. 
 
 There is a good deal of music inherent in the 
 
 PLAYING THE PIANO 
 
 Makalanga. One man in each village is recognised as 
 the bard. One of our workmen had his piano, which 
 was constantly at work. These pianos are very 
 interesting specimens of primitive musical art ; they 
 have thirty or more iron keys, arranged to scale,
 
 CAMP LIFE AND WORK AT ZIMBABWE 
 
 81 
 
 fixed on to a piece of wood about half a foot square, 
 which is decorated with carving behind. This in- 
 strument they generally put into a gourd, with pieces 
 of bone round the edge to increase the sound, which 
 
 MAKALANGA PIANO 
 
 is decidedly melodious and recalls a spinet. One 
 finds instruments of a similar nature amongst the 
 natives north of the Zambesi. Specimens in the British 
 Museum of almost exactly the same construction 
 come from Southern Egypt and the Congo, pointing 
 
 G
 
 82 ON THE ROAD TO THE RUINS 
 
 to the common and northern origin of most of these 
 African races. 
 
 About Zimbabwe we found the natives playing 
 a sort of Jew's harp, made out of a reed and string, 
 giving forth a very faint and ineffective sound. Also 
 they have their cymbals and their drums, which 
 latter they play with elbow and fist in a most ener- 
 getic manner. Anything, in fact, which makes a 
 noise is pleasing to them. At their dances they tie 
 to their persons small reeds or gourds filled with the 
 seed of the Indian shot, which rattle and add to the 
 prevailing din. They are for ever singing the low, 
 monotonous songs common to primitive races ; they 
 encourage one another with song when at work in 
 the fields, or when out on a hunting expedition, and 
 dearly did they love some small musical boxes which 
 we had with us. Music is certainly inherent in them, 
 and one of our men was quite quick at picking up 
 an air, and very angry if his comrades sang out of 
 time or tune. 
 
 When time permitted we made several little ex- 
 cursions in the neighbourhood of Zimbabwe. One 
 of these led us to the ruins which they call Little 
 Zimbabwe, about eight miles off. Of all these ruins 
 they have next to no legends, which surprised us 
 greatly. One story, however, they tell, which ap- 
 pears to have obtained universal credence amongst 
 them that long, long ago white men came and 
 erected these buildings, but the black men poisoned 
 the water and they all died. This story seems to
 
 CAMP LIFE AND WORK AT ZIMBABWE 83 
 
 have about as much, value in it as the one told us 
 by De Barros, that the natives of his day thought that 
 they had been built by the Devil. 
 
 About two miles from our camp there was a long 
 flat granite rock, along which the path passed. On 
 either side of this are two piles of stones, and a line is 
 scratched on the rock between them. Our guides 
 each took a stone, scratched them along the line, and 
 deposited them on the heap opposite. On returning 
 in the evening they did exactly the same thing, and 
 we were told that it is a luck sign, which they do on 
 undertaking a journey to ensure them from danger 
 by the way. It was a very lovely ride, past huge 
 granite boulders, and hills covered with dense foliage, 
 beneath which the women of a village danced for us 
 to the tune of their drum, forming one of the wildest, 
 weirdest pictures we had ever seen. On another 
 occasion we rode to a fortified rock, which had been 
 long since abandoned ; but the rude stone walls had 
 been constructed by a more recent race, and com- 
 pared with certain ruined villages we afterwards saw 
 in Mangwendi's country. 1 On our homeward ride 
 we turned aside to rest in a hut where we found 
 natives busily employed in making beer, a process 
 which they always carry out in the fields, where they 
 have their stores, and in cooking locusts, which we 
 tasted and thought not altogether unlike shrimps. 
 
 Thus our time passed at Zimbabwe, actively and 
 pleasantly, and when our second month of work was 
 
 1 Chap. XL 
 
 e 2
 
 84 ON THE ROAD TO THE RUINS 
 
 up, as we had much travelling before us in the 
 country, we reluctantly decided on departure. 
 
 We went up to take leave of the induna Ikomo 
 at his kraal on the day before our departure. He 
 was seated in front of his hut, eating his red-coloured 
 sodza, made of millet meal, and locusts, allowing 
 his head men, who sat around, to take occasional 
 handfuls from his savoury platter. Conversation 
 turned on his tribe. He told us how they had come 
 to Zimbabwe about forty years ago, when he was 
 only eighteen years of age, from the neighbourhood 
 of the Sabi Eiver, where they had lived for many 
 years. No one was then living on Zimbabwe Hill, 
 which was covered, as it is still in parts, with a dense 
 jungle. No one knew anything about the ruins, 
 neither did they seem to care. This is how all tra- 
 dition is lost among them.. The migratory spirit of 
 the people entirely precludes them from having any 
 information of value to give concerning the place in 
 which they may be located; they seldom remain 
 more than one generation in one place, and one 
 place is to them only different from another inas- 
 much as it affords them refuge from the Matabele and 
 has soil around it which will produce their scanty 
 crops. 
 
 On leaving Zimbabwe and our work, we deter- 
 mined on making a tentative trip of a few days, with 
 horses and a donkey, to see how we could manage 
 travelling in the wilds in this country without our 
 waggon home. Moreover, we wished to pay a visit
 
 CAMP LIFE AND WORK AT ZIMBABWE 85 
 
 to Umgabe at his kraal, and to take his rival, 
 Cherumbila, on the way back to Fort Victoria. 
 
 One lovely morning the 6th of August we left 
 our waggons, our cook, and our curios to find their 
 way to Fort Victoria by themselves, and set off. 
 The scenery southwards down the gorge was charm- 
 ing, granite kopje after granite kopje carrying the eye 
 far away into the blue hazy distance. The foliage 
 was thick and shady, and as we halted at a stream to 
 water our animals we plucked large fronds ofOsmunda 
 regalis and the tree fern. To our left we passed a 
 huge split rock, just a square block of granite eighty 
 feet high split into four parts, so that narrow paths 
 lead from each side into the heart of it. It was one 
 of the most extraordinary natural stone formations I 
 have ever seen, and the natives call it Lumbo. A 
 relation of Umgabe's rules over a fantastic kraal, 
 called Baramazimba, hard by this rock ; its huts are 
 situated in such inaccessible corners that you wonder 
 how the inhabitants ever get to them. Huge trees 
 sheltered the entrance to this village, beneath which 
 men were seated on the ground playing isafuba, 
 the mysterious game of the Makalangas, with sixty 
 holes in rows in the ground. Ten men can play at 
 this game, and it consists in removing bits of pot- 
 tery or stones from one hole to the other in an un- 
 accountable manner. We watched it scores of times 
 whilst in the country, and always gave it up as a bad 
 job, deciding that it must be like draughts or chess, 
 learnt by them from the former civilised race who
 
 86 ON THE ROAD TO THE RUINS 
 
 dwelt here. This game is played in different places 
 with different numbers of holes sometimes only 
 thirty-two holes dug in the ground always in rows 
 of four. It has a close family relationship to the 
 game called -pullangooly of India, played in a fish 
 the sisoo fish, made of wood which opens like a 
 chess-board, and has fourteen holes in two rows of 
 seven, small beans being employed as counters. The 
 same game hails also from Singapore and from the 
 West Coast of Africa, where it is played with twelve 
 holes and is called wary. In short, wherever Arabian 
 influence has been felt this game in some form or 
 other is always found, and forms for us another link 
 in the chain of evidence connecting the Mashonaland 
 ruins with an Arabian influence. The Makalangas 
 are also far superior to other neighbouring Kaffir 
 races in calculating, probably owing to the influence 
 of this very game. 
 
 At midday we reached Umgabe's kraal and found 
 our host only just recovering from the effects of drink- 
 ing too much beer, and he had a relapse in the course 
 of the afternoon to celebrate our arrival. He allotted 
 us two huts, which we proceeded to have cleaned 
 out. My wife and I occupied one, delightfully 
 situated beneath a spreading cork tree ; it was about 
 twelve feet in diameter, and in the centre was the 
 fireplace of cement with a raised seat by it on which 
 the cook usually sits when stirring the pot. We 
 spread our rugs where it appeared most level ; but 
 during the night, in spite of our candle, the rats
 
 CAMP LIFE AND WORK AT ZIMBABWE 87 
 
 careered about us to such an alarming extent that 
 sleep was next to impossible, and we had ample time 
 at our disposal for contemplating our abode. 
 
 On one side was a raised place for the family jars, 
 huge earthenware things covered with slabs of stone, 
 containing meal, caterpillars, locusts, and other 
 edibles. On the opposite side was a stable for the 
 calves, which we were able to banish ; but we could 
 not so easily control the cocks and hens which came 
 in at all the holes, nor the rats which darted amongst 
 the smoke- begrimed rafters when day dawned. 
 These blackened rafters of the roof the Makalangas 
 use as cupboards, sticking therein their pipes, their 
 weapons, their medicine phials, their tools, and their 
 pillows, and we soon found that this was the place to 
 look for all manner of curios ; only the huts are so 
 dark that it is impossible to see anything when there 
 happen to be no holes in the walls. A low door three 
 feet high is the only point for admitting light and 
 air ; consequently the huts are not only dark but 
 odoriferous. Besides the walls, the Makalangas 
 construct a primitive sort of cupboard out of the 
 spreading branch of a tree tied round with bark fibre ; 
 this contains such things as they fear the rats may 
 spoil. They are very ingenious in making things 
 out of bark long narrow bags for meal, hen coops in 
 which to carry their poultry about, nets to keep the 
 roofs on their granaries. Bark to them is one of the 
 most useful natural products that they have. 
 
 Umgabe's kraal has as lovely a situation as can
 
 88 
 
 well be imagined. It is situated in a glade, buried 
 in trees and vegetation, so that until you are in it 
 you hardly notice the spot. Huge granite mountains 
 rise on either side, completely shutting it in ; a rush- 
 ing stream runs through the glade, supplying the 
 place with delicious water. Here is distinctly a spot 
 where only man is vile ; and the great fat chief, 
 seated on the top of a rock, sodden with beer, formed 
 one of the vilest specimens of humanity I ever saw. 
 
 The aforesaid stream in its course down the 
 valley, just below the village, runs underneath a vast 
 mass of granite rocks, which form a labyrinth of caves 
 exceedingly difficult to approach. To facilitate the 
 entry the inhabitants have made bridges of trees, and 
 in times of danger from the Matabele they take refuge 
 therein ; they take their cattle with them, and pull 
 down the bridges. In the interior they always keep 
 many granaries well filled with grain, in case of 
 accidents. Old Umgabe was most unwilling for us 
 to go in and learn his tribal secret ; however, nothing 
 daunted, with the aid of candles we effected an entry, 
 and a queer place it is. Granaries are perched in all 
 sorts of crannies, traces of a late habitation exist 
 all around, and the boiling stream is roaring in the 
 crevices below. 
 
 The flat rocks outside were just then covered with 
 locusts drying in the sun ; millet meal and other 
 domestic commodities were spread out too. 
 
 The rest of that lovely afternoon we spent in 
 wandering about in this paradise, admiring the dense
 
 CAMP LIFE AND WORK AT ZIMBABWE 
 
 89 
 
 foliage, the creepers, and the euphorbia which towered 
 over the huts, and regretted when the pangs of hunger 
 and the shades of evening obliged us to return to our 
 
 HUT AT UMGABE'S KRAAL WITH EUPHORBIA BEHIND 
 
 huts to cook our frugal meal and pretend to go to 
 bed. 
 
 It was a long ride next day to Cherumbila's kraal, 
 the bitter enemy and hereditary foe of our late host ;
 
 90 ON THE ROAD TO THE RUINS 
 
 we passed many villages and many streams on the 
 way, and had a direful experience at one of the 
 swamps which our path crossed just before reaching 
 our destination. One of our horses disappeared in 
 it, all but his head, another rolled entirely over in 
 it, whilst we stood helpless on the bank and fearful 
 of the result ; but at length we managed to drag the 
 wretched animals out, and an hour before sundown 
 we reached Cherumbila's stronghold. 
 
 It is quite a different place from Umgabe's, and 
 much larger, with huts running along the backbone 
 of a high granite ridge. The principal kraal, where 
 the chief lives, is fortified with palisades and rough 
 walls, and is entered by a gateway formed of posts 
 leaning against one another ; the huts are better, 
 with decorated doors, and the people finer than those 
 of Umgabe's tribe. Many of them have their heads 
 cleanly shaved at the top, with a row of curious tufts 
 of hair tied together and made to look like a lot of 
 black plants sprouting from their skulls. 
 
 Cherumbila himself is a lithe, active man, a 
 complete contrast to Umgabe ; a man of activity both 
 of mind and body, he is feared and respected by his 
 men, and is consequently one of the strongest chiefs 
 hereabouts, and raids upon his neighbours with great 
 success. Years ago, when he was a boy, he told us, 
 his tribe lived on the top of one of the highest 
 mountains overlooking Providential Pass, when a 
 Matabele raid, or impi, fell upon them and drove
 
 CAMP LIFE AND WORK AT ZIMBABWE 
 
 91 
 
 most of the inhabitants over a steep precipice to 
 their death : the remnant that escaped came here 
 and settled, and have now, under Cherumbila's rule, 
 grown strong. The chief allotted us his own hut for 
 our night's lodging. Nevertheless we had much the 
 same experiences as on the previous night, which 
 
 AT CHERUMBILA'S KRAAL 
 
 made us vow that on our prospective trips to the 
 Sabi and northwards we would take our tent and 
 never again expose ourselves to the companionship 
 of rats and other vermin in the native huts. 
 
 The following day a lovely ride over the moun- 
 tains, through dense forests and swarms of locusts,
 
 92 ON THE ROAD TO THE RUINS 
 
 which our black men eagerly collected, brought us 
 back again to Fort Victoria and comparative civili- 
 sation, where we made preparations for our more 
 extended expeditions away from the road and our 
 waggons, warned but not discouraged by our dis- 
 comforts with Umgabe and Cherumbila.
 
 PAET II
 
 CHAPTER IV 
 
 DESCRIPTION OF THE VARIOUS RUINS 
 
 DURING our stay in Mashonaland we visited and care- 
 fully examined the sites of many ruins, a minute 
 description of which I propose to give in this chapter. 
 As a feature in the country they are most remark- 
 able ancient, massive, mysterious, standing out in 
 startling contrast to the primitive huts of the bar- 
 barians who dwell around them and the wilderness of 
 nature. Of course it was impossible in one season, 
 and in the present undeveloped state of the country, 
 to visit them all; but from accounts given of 
 others which we could not visit, and which con- 
 sequently 1 shall only briefly allude to here, there is 
 enough evidence to prove that they were all built by 
 the same race, in the same style, and for the same 
 purpose. 
 
 From Dr. Emil Holub's work ('Seven Years in 
 South Africa ') we learn something about a ruin he 
 saw on the Shashi Eiver, which consisted of a wall pro- 
 tecting a hill and formed ' of blocks of granite laid 
 one upon another, without being fixed by cement of 
 any kind.' Also at Tati he saw another ruin, forming
 
 96 THE ARCHAEOLOGY OF THE DISTRICT 
 
 a long line of protection for a hill, roughly put together 
 on the inside, but on the outside, ' probably with some 
 view to symmetry and decoration, there had been in- 
 serted double rows of stones, hewn into a kind of tile, 
 and placed obliquely one row at right angles to the 
 other. Each enclosure had an entrance facing north.' 
 He concludes that the ruin was constructed to protect 
 the gold, ' numbers of pits fifty feet deep being found 
 in the vicinity.' This pattern, the construction, and 
 the object undoubtedly connect these ruins with those 
 which I shall presently describe. 
 
 Mr. G. Philips, an old hunter in these parts, said 
 at the Eoyal Geographical Society's meeting, Novem- 
 ber 24, 1890, of the Zimbabwe ruins, 'They are 
 exactly like others I have seen in the country the 
 same zigzag patterns and the mortarless walls of 
 small hewn stones. When hunting in the mountains 
 to the west of this I came on a regular line of these 
 ruins, and one must have been a tremendously big 
 place.- There were three distinct gateways in the 
 outer wall, which I suppose was at least thirty feet 
 thick at the base, and one of those immense ironwood 
 trees (hartekol), that would have taken hundreds of 
 years to grow, had grown up through a crevice in the 
 wall and rent it asunder.' He also described another 
 ruin north-west of Tati. ' The walls are twelve to 
 fifteen feet thick, and it is entered by a passage so 
 arranged as to be commanded by archers from the 
 interior, and it only admits of the passage of one at a 
 time.'
 
 H
 
 99 
 
 Mr. E. A. Maund, in speaking of the ruins at Tati 
 and on the Impakwe, says, ' As I have said, these ruins 
 are always found near gold workings ; they are built 
 in the same way of granite, hewn into small blocks 
 somewhat bigger than a brick, and put together with- 
 out mortar. In the base of both of these there is 
 the same herring-bone course as at Zimbabwe, though 
 nearer the base of the wall. . . . The remains on the 
 Impakwe are similar in construction and are within 
 fifty yards of the river ; it was evidently an octagonal 
 tower.' Mr. Mofiat, our political agent in Matabele- 
 land, in speaking to me about this ruin, told me how 
 it had been much demolished during his recollection, 
 owing to the fact that all waggons going up to Mata- 
 beleland outspan near it, and the men assist at its 
 demolition. 
 
 There is another ruin of a similar character near 
 where the Eiver Elibi flows into the Limpopo, and 
 another further up the Mazoe Valley than the one 
 we visited. 1 
 
 I have alluded to these ruins, which I have not 
 seen, to prove the great area over which they are 
 spread, and I have little doubt that as the country 
 gets opened out a great many more will be brought 
 to light, proving the extensive population which 
 once lived here as a garrison in a hostile country, for 
 the sake of the gold which they extracted from the 
 mines in the quartz reefs between the Zambesi and 
 Limpopo Eivers. 
 
 1 Vide Chap. IX. 
 
 H 2
 
 100 THE ARCHEOLOGY OF THE DISTRICT 
 
 From personal experience I can speak of the ruins 
 on the Lundi River ; of those at and near Zimbabwe ; 
 of the chain of forts on the Sabi Eiver, including 
 Metemo, Matindela, Chilonga, and Chiburwe, and the 
 fort in the Mazoe gold fields, all of which belong to 
 the same period, and were built by the same race, and 
 agree in character with those described by Messrs. 
 Philips and Maund on the Tati, Impakwe, and else- 
 where, and are quite distinct from the more modern 
 structures in Mangwendi's and Makoni's countries, 
 which we visited towards the end of our tour and 
 which I shall describe in Chapter XI. 
 
 The circular ruin erected on a low granite emi- 
 nence of about five hundred yards from the Lundi 
 River is of exceeding insignificance when compared 
 with those of Zimbabwe and Matindela : it is only 
 fifty-four feet in diameter, and the original wall was 
 only five feet thick ; the courses are very regular and 
 neatly put together without mortar, and the stones, 
 of granite, are of a uniform size, broken into blocks 
 about twice the size of an ordinary brick. It had 
 two entrances, one to the north and another to the 
 south-east, the latter being carefully walled up with 
 an inserted structure in which the courses are carried 
 out with a carefulness similar to the walls of the rest 
 of the building. The interesting features of this ruin 
 are the patterns in three tiers beginning at a few feet 
 from the northern entrance, the two lower ones con- 
 sisting of a herring-bone, pattern, formed by the 
 stones being placed obliquely in contrary directions
 
 DESCRIPTION OF THE VARIOUS RULNS 103 
 
 in each tier, whilst the upper pattern is produced by 
 regular gaps of two inches being left between the 
 stones in two of the courses. Nearly facing the 
 rising sun at the equinox is a curious bulge, about 
 two feet deep, constructed in the wall. At this bulge 
 the two lower rows of ornamentation terminate, but 
 the upper one is carried on round it as far as the 
 south-eastern entrance. There can be little doubt 
 that these patterns, found on nearly all the Mashona- 
 land ruins, were constructed for a purpose ; they 
 only go round a portion of the buildings ; they have 
 always the same aspect namely, south-east and 
 one cannot dissociate these circular buildings and 
 the patterns from some form of sun worship. ' The 
 circle is a sacred enclosure/ says Major Conder in 
 his ' Heth and Moab,' * without which the Arab still 
 stands with his face to the rising sun.' Into this ques- 
 tion of solstitial orientation in connection with the 
 ruins Mr. Swan will enter at length in the ensuing 
 chapter. 
 
 The Lundi ruin had a cement floor, similar to 
 those floors which we afterwards frequently came 
 across in the Zimbabwe buildings; it would appear 
 to have acted the double function of a fortress and a 
 temple, guarding a population settled here on the 
 river's bank, who built their huts around it. 
 
 The ruins of the Great Zimbabwe (which name 
 I have applied to them to distinguish them from 
 the numerous minor Zimbabwes scattered over the 
 country) are situated in south latitude 20 16' 30",
 
 104 THE ARCHEOLOGY OF THE DISTRICT 
 
 and east longitude 31 10' 10", on the high plateau of 
 Mashonaland, 3,300 feet above the sea level, and form 
 the capital of a long series of such ruins stretching 
 up the whole length of the western side of the Sabi 
 Eiver. They are built on granite, and of granite, 
 quartz reefs being found at a distance of a few 
 miles. 
 
 The prominent features of the Great Zimbabwe 
 ruins, which cover a large area of ground, are, firstly, 
 the large circular ruin with its round tower on the 
 edge of a gentle slope on the plain below ; secondly, 
 the mass of ruins in the valley immediately beneath 
 this ; and thirdly, the intricate fortress on the granite 
 hill above, acting as the acropolis of the ancient city. 
 These we will now discuss in their order. 
 
 When we reached the Great Zimbabwe the circular 
 ruin was on the inside a dense mass of tropical vege- 
 tation ; creepers and monkey ropes hung in matted 
 confusion to the tall trees, forming a jungle which it 
 was almost impossible to penetrate, and added to the 
 mazy labyrinth of walls a peculiar and almost awe- 
 inspiring mystery. 
 
 It was the work of some days to clear this off with 
 the aid of native workmen, whilst at the same time 
 we proceeded with our excavations in the neighbour- 
 hood of the tower and other prominent portions of 
 the building. 
 
 As for the walls themselves, they were nearly free 
 from vegetation, for, owing to the absence of mortar, 
 no lichen, moss, nor creeper could thrive on them,
 
 PLAN or RUINO 
 MATINDELA 
 
 PLAN OF 
 CIRCULAR RUINS 
 
 ZIMBABWE 
 
 Stou-s 
 
 thresholdi. and. 4 feet, bfitm 
 
 Sole through 
 *raJL8~ square. 
 
 trsts OTV cotaureeL darker 
 
 Grein. A Co . Loruian.
 
 DESCRIPTION OF THE VARIOUS RUINS 105 
 
 and those few things which had penetrated into 
 crevices were of a succulent character, which formed 
 their branches to the shape of the interstices. To 
 this fact is due the wonderful state of preservation in 
 which these ruins are found. 
 
 What appeared at first sight to be a true circle 
 eventually proved elliptical a form of temple found 
 at Marib, the ancient Saba and capital of the Sabaean 
 kingdom in Arabia, and at the Castle of Nakab 
 al Hajar, also in that country. 1 Its greatest length 
 is 280 feet ; the wall at its highest point is thirty- 
 five feet above the ground, and fifteen feet at the 
 lowest ; its greatest base thickness is sixteen feet 
 two inches, and its thinnest point is about five feet. 
 In the structure of the wall one very noticeable 
 feature is that the portion to the south-east is very 
 much better built, and is both thicker and higher : 
 here the courses are marvellously true, as if built 
 with a levelling line, and the stones, of granite 
 hammered into shape, are exactly the same size, 
 whereas on the north-west side and in some of the 
 interior walls, which are marked in a lighter colour 
 on the plan, the courses begin to get slightly ir- 
 regular, and the stones of unequal size, suggesting 
 almost a different period of workmanship ; but then 
 there is no point where the good definitely ends or 
 the bad begins, except at a short gap on the northern 
 side, where the good wall would seem to have been 
 continued more in a northerly direction, and the 
 
 1 Encyclop. Brit.
 
 106 THE ARCHAEOLOGY OF THE DISTRICT 
 
 inferior wall to have been brought round to 
 meet it. 
 
 There are three entrances to this circular building. 
 The principal one, only three feet wide, faces the hill 
 fortress and the north. It has an odd curvature in 
 it, constructed evidently true north, whereas all the 
 
 MAIN ENTRANCE 
 
 other entrances are straight. Below this entrance 
 runs a very substantial substructure wall, and the little 
 space immediately inside it was covered with a thick 
 cement, made out of powdered granite, out of which 
 steps had been formed leading down to the various 
 passages which converge here from the centre of the 
 building. The presence of this concrete in use for
 
 DESCRIPTION OF THE VARIOUS RUINS 
 
 109 
 
 flooring and steps in buildings constructed without 
 mortar is interesting, showing that dry building was 
 used not from necessity but from choice. 
 
 The entrance to the north-west had been walled 
 up, and we had to climb over a heap of stones to 
 gain admittance until it was opened out. It is narrow 
 and straight, and protected by two buttresses on the 
 inside. The wall here is very inferior to what it is at 
 the main entrance. There was also another entrance 
 
 T"T^t^T^i\l C T iS/^ T f ' ^V^T , . jX ?'T' X ' 
 
 -i :r!rj: .i-r tQ, 1 -^TJ,- yi- O TT 
 ^.^-^ .- ^^-^ 3^ ;ri 7.T- 
 
 -, 7 >H ' i 1 N '" ' 
 PATTERN ON LARGE CIRCULAR RUIN AT ZIMBABWE 
 
 between these two, presumably merely a sally-port in 
 the wall, the lintel of which had consisted of wooden 
 beams, which had been burnt, and on their giving 
 way the wall above had also fallen down. 
 
 Of the outer wall of the circular building the 
 most interesting portion is decidedly that to the 
 south-east. A few courses below the summit on the 
 outside, from point A to point B on the plan, runs 
 the pattern, formed by two courses having the stones 
 placed chevron-wise, neatly fitted in with smaller
 
 110 THE ARCHEOLOGY OF THE DISTRICT 
 
 stones receding a little, so as to make the pattern 
 at a distance appear as if it stood out in relief, 
 whereas it is really flush with the wall. This 
 pattern coincides with the sacred enclosure inside, 
 terminating at point B exactly w T here the enclosure 
 terminates, and at the other end at point A about 
 half-way down the narrow passage, forming thus an 
 arc of one and a half right angle. Its connection 
 with the sanctity of the place is obvious, and into its 
 relation to the orientation of the temple Mr. Swan 
 will enter fully in the ensuing chapter. Along this 
 portion of the wall, and on this only, large mono- 
 liths were inserted, most of which have fallen away ; 
 but those still standing show that they were equi- 
 distant. Here too the top of the wall has been neatly 
 paved with slabs of granite, and must have formed a 
 broad promenade, presumably approached by steps 
 from a point near the main entrance. Here one can 
 still walk with ease, whereas on the inferior portion 
 of the wall it is now scarcely possible to scramble. 
 
 The labyrinthine character of the interior will 
 be best grasped by a glance at the plan. Entering 
 from the northern portal, we at once plunge into its 
 intricacies. The great and astounding feature is the 
 long narrow passage leading direct from the main 
 entrance to the sacred enclosure, so narrow in parts 
 that two people cannot walk abreast, whilst on either 
 side of you rise the stupendous walls, thirty feet in 
 height, and built with such evenness of courses and 
 symmetry that as a specimen of the dry builder's
 
 DESCRIPTION OF THE VARIOUS RUINS 111 
 
 art it is without a parallel. The large blocks of cut 
 stone used in Egyptian, Greek, and Eoman masonry 
 must have been comparatively easy to deal with as 
 compared with these small stones of rough granite 
 built in even courses in a circular wall of immense 
 thickness and height. The idea at once suggests 
 itself that the people who erected these walls had at 
 one time been accustomed to build in bricks, and that 
 in the absence of this material they had perfected a 
 system of stone-building to represent as nearly as 
 possible the appearance of brick ; also another reason 
 for the use of small stones may have been to enable 
 them to construct the tower and curves with greater 
 accuracy. The facings of the stones are all uniform, 
 but most of them run back into the wall irregu- 
 larly, acting in the same way as throughs in our 
 dry-built walls at home in preserving the building 
 from falling. In this narrow passage, at point S, 
 is the remarkable hole, executed with perfect neat- 
 ness through the thickest part of the wall, about 
 the actual use of which I am able to give no definite 
 theory. It could not have been used for drainage 
 or defence ; and in the fortress above there are two 
 similar tunnels equally inexplicable. 
 
 The actual approaches to the sacred enclosure 
 are most carefully defended with buttresses on either 
 side, into which a form of portcullis has been fixed, 
 with two grooves, one running down each side, pre- 
 sumably originally intended to receive a wooden door ; 
 but at a later period all these entrances have been 
 
 I
 
 112 THE ARCHEOLOGY OF THE DISTRICT 
 
 carefully walled up, for what purpose it is difficult to 
 say. It naturally occurred to us that this had been 
 done at a time of danger for protection, but the neat- 
 ness with which the blocking-up walls are executed 
 is against this theory. 
 
 At point V on the plan there is a remarkable in- 
 stance of the two periods of building. Here, in front 
 of the sacred enclosure, the wall was decorated with 
 courses of black slate in the older and better wall, 
 whereas they are omitted in the inferior continuation. 
 
 At point E there is a raised platform immediately 
 in front of the large round tower, covered with a 
 flooring of thick cement, supported by large stones 
 loosely packed together, into which a monolith had 
 been stuck. This platform was connected with the 
 sacred enclosure by a flight of cement steps, and was 
 presumably used for religious purposes. 
 
 In dealing with the two remarkable round towers 
 which stood in the sacred enclosure, one cannot lay 
 too much stress on the symmetry of the courses and 
 the accuracy with which they have been built. They 
 stand in the centre of the sacred enclosure, which 
 was floored with cement. By digging to their foun- 
 dations we were able to get very accurate measure- 
 ments of them, and found that the circumference of 
 the smaller one corresponds exactly to the diameter 
 of the big one, and the diameter of the big one is 
 apparently equal to half its original height, and its 
 circumference again is equal to the diameter of the 
 round building on the Lundi Eiver. The battering of 
 
 o o
 
 DESCRIPTION OF THE VARIOUS RUINS 115 
 
 the big tower is carried out with mathematical ac- 
 curacy, the slope of the curve being perfectly regular, 
 and is produced by placing the superincumbent stones 
 in a slightly receding position, so that with the aid 
 of a monkey rope we were able to climb to the top. 
 A few courses below the summit, which would seem to 
 be very much in its original condition except on the 
 south side, where Herr Mauch confesses to have 
 pulled down the stones of several courses, runs a 
 dentelle pattern, marked D on the plan, formed by 
 placing the stones of one course edgeways. This 
 pattern is the same as the lower one given in the 
 illustration of Matindela ruins, p. 137 ; but unfortu- 
 nately, owing to the demolition of the upper courses, 
 it is impossible to define its extent. The tower 
 would seem to have been thirty-five feet in height, 
 and the summit to have been a level of about four 
 feet in diameter. By digging below this tower, and 
 pulling out stones from the sides, which we care- 
 fully replaced, we demonstrated to our satisfaction 
 that it was solid. It was built on nothing but the 
 soil of the place, and was erected over nothing ; the 
 foundations go down for one foot below the floor of 
 cement which covered the enclosure, and it has been 
 preserved to us simply by its solidity, its long through 
 stones, and the way in which the stones have sup- 
 ported one another. We investigated the smaller 
 tower very thoroughly, and found it also solid. 
 
 The religious purport of these towers would seem 
 to be conclusively proved by the numerous finds we
 
 116 THE ARCHAEOLOGY OF THE DISTRICT 
 
 made in other parts of the ruins of a phallic nature 
 (vide Chap. VI.), and I think a quotation from Mont- 
 faucon's ' L'Antiquite Expliquee ' will give us the key- 
 note of the worship. ' The ancients assure us that all 
 the Arabians worshipped a tower, which they called 
 El Acara or Alquetila, which was built by their 
 patriarch, Ishmael.' 'Maximus of Tyre says they 
 honoured as a great god a great cut stone ; this is 
 apparently the same stone resembling Venus, accord- 
 ing to Euthymius Zygabenus. When the Saracens 
 were converted to Christianity they were obliged to 
 anathematise this stone, which formerly they wor- 
 shipped.' This tower doubtless corresponded to the 
 sacred tower of the Midianites, called Penuel, or the 
 * Face of God,' which Gideon destroyed (Judges 
 viii. 7). Allusions to these towers are constant in the 
 Bible, and the Arabian historian El Masoudi further 
 tells us that this stone or tower was eight cubits high, 
 and was placed in an angle of the temple, which had 
 no roof. Turning to Phoenician temple construction, 
 we have a good parallel to the ruins of the Great 
 Zimbabwe at Byblos ; as depicted on the coins, the 
 tower or sacred cone is set up within the temple 
 precincts and shut off in an enclosure (vide illus- 
 tration, p. 150). Similar work is also found in the 
 round temples of the Cabiri, at Hadjar Kern in 
 Malta, and the construction of these buildings bears a 
 remarkable resemblance to that of those at Zimbabwe, 
 and the round towers, or nuraghs, found in Sardinia 
 may possibly be of similar significance. MM. Perrot
 
 DESCRIPTION OF THE VARIOUS RUINS 117 
 
 and Chipiez, in their ' History of Art in Sardinia,' 
 speak of these nuraghs as forts or temples, around 
 which the primitive inhabitants of the island once 
 lived. They are c truncated cones, built with stone 
 blocks of different sizes, narrowing to the top. The 
 stones are unhewn as a rule and laid on without 
 mortar.' Here too we have a parallel for our mono- 
 liths, menhirs of unhewn stone, and also for the phalli, 
 specimens of which are found carved on stone (p. 57, 
 figs. 49 and 50), and here too the intricate plan of 
 the fortresses suggests at once a parallel to those at 
 Zimbabwe ; hence it would appear that the same 
 influence was at work in Sardinia as in South Africa. 
 In Lucian's ' De Syria Dea,' which we shall have 
 occasion again to quote when discussing our finds in 
 Chapter VI., we find a description of a temple at 
 Hierapolis, in Mesopotamia, in the propylsea of which, 
 he tells us ( 16), ' there stood two very large phalli, 
 about thirty cubits high.' Our tower at Zimbabwe 
 stood apparently twenty cubits high and ten in dia- 
 meter. He further says ( 29), ' These phalli are 
 solid, for when a priest had to ascend he had to put 
 a rope round himself and the phallus and walk up.' 
 
 Herr Mauch, in his account of Zimbabwe, alludes 
 to a sacrifice which took place here amongst the 
 natives in his day (1871). This ceremony seems to 
 correspond very closely to the sacrifice celebrated 
 elsewhere in this country to the spirits of their 
 ancestors. It is pretty evident that another tribe of 
 Kaffirs dwelt near Zimbabwe at that time, who
 
 118 THE ARCHAEOLOGY OF THE DISTRICT 
 
 looked upon the circular building as sacred ; whereas 
 the present people do not seem to look upon it with 
 any religious superstition, which will account for the 
 growth of vegetable matter inside only during late 
 years. This was further evidenced by our excava- 
 tions in this building ; we found but little depth of 
 soil, very little debris, and indications of a Kaffir 
 occupation of the place up to a very recent date, and 
 no remains like those we afterwards discovered in 
 the fortress. 
 
 The rest of the circular building, as the plan 
 shows, is divided off into various smaller enclosures, 
 and in one spot we imagine, by comparison with the 
 temples on the hill, an altar stood ; it is now only a 
 heap of rubbish. There are also three remarkable 
 monoliths erected in it, two near the north-western 
 entrance and one behind the altar. They are about 
 11 feet in height rough, unhewn blocks of granite, 
 firmly buried in the ground. On the hill fortress, 
 and also, as I have said, on the wall of the circular 
 building, the quantity of monoliths is very marked, 
 and stone-worship seems to have formed an integral 
 feature in the ancient cult of this place. MM. Perrot 
 and Chipiez write (vol. i. p. 58), ' We find the worship 
 of betylse (/3airvA.ia, bethels, i.e. sacred stones) in 
 every country reached by Phoenician influence' 
 (vide Chap. VI.) Probably we shall be more cor- 
 rect in considering it an even more remote Semitic 
 influence, which continued in vogue amongst the 
 Phoenicians until more recent times. Palgrave in his
 
 DESCRIPTION OF THE VARIOUS RUINS 119 
 
 Arabian travels also speaks of the many monoliths 
 he saw in Lower Nejed : ' Huge stones, like enormous 
 boulders, placed endways perpendicularly on the 
 soil. They were arranged in a curve, once forming 
 part, it would appear, of a large circle. . . . That 
 the object of these strange constructions was in some 
 measure religious seems to me hardly doubtful . . . 
 in fact, there is little difference between the stone 
 wonder of Kaseem and that of Wiltshire' (Stone- 
 henge). 
 
 The valley between the lower circular ruin and 
 the fortress on the hill is a mass of ruins. About a 
 hundred yards from it, and connected by a wall, is 
 a curious angular enclosure, divided into several 
 chambers at different levels ; it has three entrances, 
 all of which are straight, like those at the Lundi and 
 Matindela, and not rounded off like those in the cir- 
 cular ruin. The main entrance leads into two narrow 
 passages : the one going to the left is protected 
 by an ambuscade ; the other, going to the right, 
 ascends a slope, at the top of which evidently once 
 stood two round towers, the bases of which we ex- 
 cavated, and near them we found several long 
 pillars, presumably fallen monoliths. But here again 
 the Kaffirs had been living until a recent date, and 
 consequently we made no discoveries here. Outside 
 this ruin we opened three kitchen middens, and 
 came across one or two small articles of interest. 
 
 Sloping down from this ruin into the valley below 
 a narrow passage conducts one through a perfect
 
 120 THE ARCHEOLOGY OF THE DISTRICT 
 
 labyrinth of ruins. Some of these, notably the large 
 circular erection just outside the big temple, are of 
 very inferior workmanship, and would appear to 
 have been constructed at a much later period; 
 whereas the wall surrounding a large space at the 
 bottom of the valley is as good as the best part of 
 the large circular building. We did not attempt 
 any excavation amongst these, and if we had I 
 expect the results would have been unsatisfactory. 
 All the surface of them has been dug over and over 
 again by generations of Kaffirs for their mealy fields. 
 There.is a great growth of brushwood, and probably 
 a considerable depth of soil, which our limited appli- 
 ances and inexperienced workmen would have found 
 it hard to deal with. 
 
 Again and again these circular ruins repeat 
 themselves, always, if possible, occupying a slightly 
 raised ground for about a mile along a low ridge, 
 acting, doubtless, the double purpose of temples and 
 fortresses for separate communities, the inhabitants 
 dwelling in beehive huts of mud around. This, to 
 my mind, is the probable restoration of this ancient 
 African settlement. 
 
 Down the valley to the north-west runs a long 
 wall of irregular stones, roughly put together, for a 
 mile or more such a wall as Kaffirs would erect 
 to-day to protect themselves from the advance of 
 an enemy. This I do not connect with the more 
 ancient and regularly built edifices, but it probably 
 owes its erection to a period when Zulu hordes
 
 DESCRIPTION OF THE VARIOUS RUINS 121 
 
 swept down on the more peaceful and effeminate 
 descendants of the Monomatapa. 
 
 Many were the miles we walked in every direc- 
 tion, around and on the hill fortress, to the east, 
 west, north, and south, intent on one object namely, 
 that of finding indications of a cemetery, which the 
 ancient inhabitants of these ruins might have used 
 but our searches were always in vain. Kaffir re- 
 mains we found in abundance, and a small cemetery 
 of some twenty graves of rough stone piled over the 
 bodies, about ten miles from Zimbabwe, also Kaffir, 
 but nothing else. Consequently we came to the 
 conclusion that the ancient inhabitants, who formed 
 but a garrison in this country, were in the habit of 
 removing their dead to some safer place. This plan 
 seems to have a parallel in Arabia in antiquity, a 
 notable instance of which is to be found on the 
 Bahrein Islands, in the Persian Gulf, where acres and 
 acres of mounds contain thousands of tombs, and no 
 vestige of a town is to be found anywhere near 
 them. The custom still prevails amongst the Mo- 
 hammedans of Persia, who transport their dead to 
 such places as Kerbela, Meshed, and Kum, to rest in 
 the vicinity of some sacred shrine ; and the absence 
 of any burial place near Zimbabwe would seem to 
 point to the same custom having prevailed here. 
 
 Having failed to bring to light any definite 
 records of the past during the first fortnight of our 
 work, we naturally cast our eyes around for the 
 most likely spot to carry on our work, and our
 
 122 THE ARCHAEOLOGY OF THE DISTRICT 
 
 choice fell on the south-western portion of the hill 
 fortress. Here were certain indications which struck 
 us as favourable, and furthermore it occurred to us 
 that a spot situated on the shady side of the hill 
 behind the great rock might possibly be free from 
 Kaffir desecration; and the results of our excava- 
 tions on this spot proved this to be the case, for here, 
 and here only, did we come across relics of the past 
 in our digging. In fact, the ancient builders seemed 
 to have originally chosen the most shady spots for 
 their buildings. Undoubtedly the oldest portions of 
 the Zimbabwe ruins are those running along the 
 sunless side of the hill fortress ; on the other side, 
 where now the Kaffir village is, we found hardly any 
 trace of ancient structures. Our difficulty was to get 
 the shivering Kaffirs to work there, for whenever our 
 backs were turned they would hurry off to bask in 
 the rays of their beloved sun. 
 
 I will now proceed to describe the hill fortress, 
 approaching it from the valley below. The laby- 
 rinthine nature of this fortress will best be realised 
 by a glance at the accompanying plan. The kopje 
 itself is of great natural strength, being protected on 
 one side by gigantic granite boulders, and on the 
 south by a precipice from seventy to ninety feet in 
 height, and on the only accessible side the ancient 
 inhabitants constructed a wall of massive thickness, 
 like those of the ruins below. This wall is thirteen 
 feet thick on the summit, with a batter of one foot 
 in six ; it is thirty feet high in parts, and the flat
 
 DESCRIPTION OF THE VARIOUS RUIXS 
 
 121 
 
 causeway on the top was decorated on the outside 
 edge by a succession of small round towers alternat- 
 ing with tall monoliths ; seven round towers in all we 
 e> 
 
 made out, about three feet in diameter, and several 
 others had been destroyed by the f.ill of a portion of 
 the wall. This system of round towers and monoliths 
 
 ROUND TOWER AND MONOLITH DECORATION ON THE FORTRESS 
 
 produces one of the most peculiar and unique forms 
 of decoration I have ever seen. 
 
 To open out the approach to this fortress town 
 was a work of considerable time and labour ; it will 
 easily be seen by the plan how intricate it is, pro- 
 tected at every turn with traverses and ambuscades,
 
 124 THE ARCHEOLOGY OF THE DISTRICT 
 
 and there commences at the bottom of the precipice 
 a flight of steps leading up the steep ascent. The 
 architects availed themselves of a narrow slit in 
 the granite boulder, up which the steps led, the pass- 
 age being exceedingly narrow ; then the path divided 
 into two, one path turning abruptly to the right, and 
 at the turning a pretty little bit of wall with the 
 stones placed pointways for about a yard relieved the 
 monotony and formed a sort of dentelle pattern ; then 
 it led along a narrow ledge over the precipice, and in 
 spite of the impossibility of attack at such a point it 
 was nevertheless protected by traverses even here. In 
 fact, the redundancy of fortification all over this 
 mountain, the useless repetition of walls over a pre- 
 cipice itself inaccessible, the care with which every 
 hole in the boulders through which an arrow could 
 pass is closed, prove that the occupants were in con- 
 stant dread of attack, and lived like a garrison in the 
 heart of an enemy's country. 
 
 At the summit of the mountain are huge 
 boulders about fifty feet high. Immediately below 
 the highest is a curious little plateau which had been 
 decorated by the ancient occupiers ; it is approached 
 by narrow passages and steps on either side, and a 
 curious passage through the wall below, covered 
 with huge beams of granite to support the super- 
 incumbent weight. The steps on one side were 
 made of the same strong cement, and the wall to 
 the left was decorated with the same design of 
 stones, placed edgeways for six rows, that we had
 
 APPROACH TO THE ACROPOLIS
 
 DESCRIPTION OF THE VARIOUS RUINS 
 
 127 
 
 found at the angle of the approach. The little plat- 
 eau itself was adorned with huge monoliths and 
 decorated pillars of soapstone, the patterns on which 
 were chiefly of a geometric character, and one of 
 which was eleven and a half feet in height. Here 
 too we unearthed many stones of natural but curious 
 
 THE PLATFORM WITH MONOLITHS, ETC., ON THE FOETEESS 
 
 forms, to which I shall have again occasion to refer 
 in Chapter VI. 
 
 The large semicircular space below this platform 
 was a dense jungle when we started to work upon 
 it, consisting of nettles of extraordinary pricking 
 powers and other obnoxious plants, which our 
 
 K2
 
 128 THE ARCHEOLOGY OF THE DISTRICT 
 
 natives cleared away with marvellous dexterity. In 
 the centre of this building stood an altar covered 
 with a thick coating of cement, and several large 
 blocks of cement were lying about. In a wall in this 
 enclosure was another of those curious holes pierced 
 through its thickness, and there was plenty of evi- 
 dence to show that this had once been a most pro- 
 minent point in the ancient structure, forming, as it 
 does, by far the largest available level space on the 
 fortress, and must probably have been used as an 
 agora, where from the platform an assembled crowd 
 could have been addressed, and for religious celebra- 
 tions on a large scale. The view from it is extensive 
 and magnificent over the Livouri and Bessa ranges, 
 and situated, as it is, far above the level of the 
 marshy ground below, it would be healthy and 
 habitable during all seasons of the year. 
 
 The labyrinthine nature of the buildings now be- 
 fore us baffles description. In one place is a narrow 
 sloping gully, four feet across, ascending between two 
 boulders, and protected, for no conceivable reason, by 
 six alternate buttresses and a wall at the upper end, 
 forming a zigzag passage narrowed in one place to 
 ten inches. Walls of huge size shut off separate cham- 
 bers. In all directions everything is tortuous ; every 
 inch of ground is protected with buttresses and 
 traverses. Here too, as in the large circular building 
 below, all the entrances are rounded off, and I 
 imagine that here we have quite the oldest portion of 
 the ruins, built at a time when defence was the main
 
 DESCRIPTION OF THE VARIOUS RUINS 129 
 
 object. When they were able to do so with safety, 
 they next constructed the circular temple below, and 
 as time went on they erected the more carelessly put 
 together buildings around, which I have described. 
 
 The south-western end of this line of ruins was 
 obviously a temple ; it has been lately used as a cattle 
 pen by the chief, but the soil has not been dis- 
 turbed. On removing the soil we came across a level 
 cement floor, supported on an elaborate system of 
 under-walls filled up with large stones on which the 
 cement floor rested, as was the case in the raised 
 platform in the circular temple below. In the centre 
 stood the altar, an angular structure of small granite 
 blocks, which fell to pieces a short time after exposure 
 to the air ; when we removed the soil which had 
 buried this altar, around it we found the phalli, the 
 birds or soapstone pillars, and fragments of soap- 
 stone bowls, which I shall subsequently describe 
 more in detail. 
 
 On a portion of the wall outside, as in the circular 
 building below, ran a pattern a dentelle pattern 
 formed by placing the stones edgeways, with exactly 
 the same aspect as the pattern below. To the north 
 of the temple a steep ascent, constructed on support- 
 ing walls, led through the granite boulders to a hollow 
 space walled in on one side, and protected by the 
 rocks on the other three ; a rounded buttress guarded 
 the entrance, and in the centre stood two tall mono- 
 liths of slate firmly fixed into the cement floor and 
 the stones beneath ; from this spot a slope led up to
 
 130 THE AKCH^OLOGY OF THE DISTRICT 
 
 the top of the rock, on which a terrace had been con- 
 structed overlooking the temple and facing the rising 
 sun. Another gully between two boulders, only wide 
 enough for one man to pass at a time, led out of the 
 temple to the side where the modern Kaffir village 
 is. This had also been anciently strongly protected. 
 
 The temple was approached from the lower ridge 
 above the precipice by a narrow passage between two 
 high walls gently ascending to a flight of steps. This 
 passage ended in a most curious architectural feature 
 namely, steps were formed leading to the temple on 
 the one side, and apparently only for ornamentation 
 on the other, by continuing the rounded courses of 
 the outer wall so that they produced the effect of two 
 miniature theatres facing one another, and proving 
 almost more than any other point amongst the ruins 
 the high pitch to which the ancient builders had 
 brought their knowledge of keeping even courses in 
 dry building. This point in the arclutecture proves 
 the especial attention paid by the constructors to 
 curves, and these curves would seem to have been 
 constructed on the same principle as the curves in 
 the large circular building which Mr. Swan will dis- 
 cuss in Chapter V. 
 
 Adjoining the temple to the north is another semi- 
 circular building, the inner wall of which has six 
 vertical rows, six feet high, let into the construction, 
 as if for beams, with a ledge on the top, as if for a 
 roof. We were unable to form any opinion as to the
 
 DESCRIPTION OF THE VARIOUS RUINS 131 
 
 use of this chamber,' and though we emptied it of soil 
 we found nothing in it. 
 
 Between two boulders to the north-west of the 
 temple led a narrow passage, tortuously winding, with 
 walls on either side wedged up against the boulders, 
 and every conceivable hole in the rocks was walled 
 up. This passage led to another open space protected 
 on two sides by rocks and on two by walls. This 
 space was also full of wall foundations ; but, being 
 open to the sun, it had been occupied and ransacked 
 by the Kaffirs. 
 
 To the south of the temple a flight of steps led 
 down to the gold-smelting furnaces and the caves, of 
 which I shall speak more at length in connection 
 with the finds. . This corner of the building was the 
 only one in which our excavations were successful, 
 and I entirely attribute this fact to its chilly and 
 shady position a spot studiously avoided by the suc- 
 ceeding generations of Kaffir tribes for this reason. 
 Below the temple at the bottom of the precipice we 
 commenced work, with great hope of finding the 
 other portions of the bowls, &c., which we had found 
 above. Here there is an enormous mass of fallen 
 stones from the buildings above, but amongst them 
 we found surprisingly little of interest. Perhaps a 
 thorough excavation of this slope would yield further 
 results, as so many of our finds in the temple above 
 are fragmentary, and the presumption is that the 
 other portions were thrown over the precipice ; but
 
 132 THE ARCHAEOLOGY OF THE DISTRICT 
 
 this will be a gigantic work, entailing an enormous 
 amount of labour and expenditure. 
 
 Such is the great fortress of Zimbabwe, the most 
 mysterious and complex structure that it has ever 
 been my fate to look upon. Vainly one tries to 
 realise what it must have been like in the days before 
 ruin fell upon it, with its tortuous and \vell-guarded 
 approaches, its walls bristling with monoliths and 
 round towers, its temple decorated with tall, weird- 
 looking birds, its huge decorated bowls, and in the 
 innermost recesses its busy gold-producing furnace. 
 What was this life like ? Why did the inhabitants so 
 carefully guard themselves against attack ? A thou- 
 sand questions occur to one which one longs in vain 
 to answer. The only parallel sensation that I have had 
 was when viewing the long avenues of menhirs near 
 Carnac, in Brittany, a sensation at once fascinating 
 and vexatious, for one feels the utter hopelessness of 
 knowing all one would wish on the subject. When 
 taken alone this fortress is sufficiently a marvel ; but 
 when taken together with the large circular building 
 below, the numerous ruins scattered around, the other 
 ruins of a like nature at a distance, one cannot fail to 
 recognise the vastness and power of this ancient race, 
 their great constructive ingenuity and strategic skill. 
 
 About eight miles from Zimbabwe, standing alone 
 in a fertile valley, there is another ruin which we 
 visited, presumably of a later and inferior date, for 
 the courses and stones are irregular and correspond 
 to the later constructions at Zimbabwe. It too stands
 
 APPROACH TO THE FORTRESS BY THE CLEFT. ZIMBABWE
 
 DESCRIPTION OF THE VARIOUS RUINS 135 
 
 on a flat granite rock, and its structure is equally 
 intricate, as will be seen from the plan. The natives 
 know it by the name of the Little Zimbabwe, but for 
 purposes of investigation into the origin of the con- 
 structing race it affords us no special point of value, 
 which is the case also with most of the other ruins 
 which we visited, and nothing need be said about 
 them except to point out their existence. These 
 remarks refer to the ruins which we found at 
 Metemo, Chilondillo, Chiburwe, and in the Mazoe 
 valley, all of which were obviously erected as forts 
 to protect a surrounding population. Some of them 
 are of the best period of workmanship, notably those at 
 Chiburwe and in the Mazoe valley; others are of inferior 
 workmanship, with uneven courses and irregularly 
 shaped blocks of granite, proving that, as we find the 
 two periods side by side at the Great Zimbabwe, also 
 we have them scattered over the country. 
 
 The great ruin at Matindela is second only in 
 importance to the Great Zimbabwe itself, and merits 
 a close description. 
 
 The circular building at Matindela encloses an 
 area not far short of that enclosed by the large circu- 
 lar building at the Great Zimbabwe ; it crowns a low 
 sloping granite kopje about 150 feet in height. The 
 place is full of huge baobab trees, two of which in 
 their growth have pushed down and grown up in the 
 walls themselves. There are those that tell us about 
 the fabulous age of the baobab, attributing an age 
 of 5,000 years to the larger ones. The Director of
 
 136 THE ARCHAEOLOGY OF THE DISTRICT 
 
 Kew Gardens, Mr. Thiselton Dyer, tells me that this is 
 grossly exaggerated, and that a few centuries is prob- 
 ably all that can be attributed to the very largest, 
 Be this as it may, the baobabs have grown up and 
 arrived at maturity long after the building of the 
 Matindela ruins and their subsequent abandonment. 
 
 BAOBAB TREE IN MATINDELA RUINS 
 
 The best built portion of the wall has the same 
 aspect as that at the Great Zimbabwe ; but the other 
 side, corresponding to the worst built part of the 
 Zimbabwe wall, has never been completed at Matin- 
 dela ; the fact that the south-eastern side has been so 
 strongly built and so much trouble has been spent on 
 its decoration, and that the north side is compara-
 
 DESCRIPTION OF THE VARIOUS RUINS 
 
 137 
 
 lively open and neglected, and that the hill is equally 
 assailable from both sides, leads one naturally to infer 
 that the idea of a temple is here more prominent than 
 that of a fortress. 
 
 The walls at Matindela are nowhere more than 
 fifteen feet in height, nor are the courses nearly as 
 regular as those at the Great Zimbabwe ; but the 
 o-reat feature of interest is here the arrangement of 
 
 o ~ 
 
 the patterns, which establish beyond a doubt that they 
 
 IF- J & ' ; :3 
 
 WALLED-UP ENTRANCE AND PATTERN ON MATINDELA RUINS 
 
 were inserted in the walls for a more complex pur- 
 pose than mere ornamentation. The arrangement of 
 these patterns is as follows : First to the south-east 
 comes the herring-bone pattern, running over the 
 chief entrance as a lintel for six yards. Here it ends, 
 and two feet below begins the dentelle pattern for 
 the same distance ; then the pattern stops altogether 
 on the outside, but there are indications that it was 
 continued on the inside instead. Then it is again in- 
 serted for forty feet on the outside, and finally is again
 
 138 THE ARCHEOLOGY OF THE DISTRICT 
 
 put on the inside for the remainder of its extent 
 namely, thirteen feet. Above the pattern and nearly 
 over the principal entrance a curious loophole is still 
 left standing, and the best portion of the wall has 
 been battlemented, the outside portion being raised in 
 front two or three feet higher than the back. The 
 wall is eleven feet six inches at its thickest, and on 
 the top of it we saw holes in which monoliths 
 evidently once stood, as they did on the wall of the 
 circular building at the Great Zimbabwe. 
 
 Another very marked feature at Matindela is that 
 the doorways are all square, like those at the Lundi 
 ruin, and not rounded off, as those at Zimbabwe, and 
 then again all these doorways have been walled up in 
 an uniform fashion, the courses corresponding exactly 
 to those of the rest of the wall. In the original con- 
 struction of the building certain spaces of seven feet 
 had been left in the wall ; two feet on either side had 
 then been built up, thus leaving an entrance of three 
 feet, which entrance in its turn had also been walled 
 up. Here, as at the Great Zimbabwe, the theory at once 
 occurred to me that these places had been walled up 
 at a time of siege ; but when one takes into considera- 
 tion the care with which these apertures havef been 
 walled up, and the triple nature of the added wall, this 
 theory seems untenable. The walling up of the 
 pylons in certain Egyptian temples at Karnak, which 
 Prof. Norman Lockyer brought before my notice, 
 seems an apt parallel, though the reasons for so 
 doing do not seem to my mind at present sufficiently
 
 DESCRIPTION OF THE VARIOUS RUINS 139 
 
 proved. It must also be borne in mind that the 
 walling up of the principal entrance at Matindela 
 must have taken place prior to the construction of 
 the pattern which rests upon it. 
 
 The interior of this building, as will be seen from 
 the plan, was divided up into chambers, as the other 
 ruins at Zimbabwe, but the walls here are much 
 straighter, and the circular system of construction 
 seems to have been more or less abandoned. I take 
 it that this ruin at Matindela was constructed by 
 the same race at a period of decadence, when the old 
 methods of building had fallen into desuetude. 
 
 Outside the walls of the temple or fortress we 
 found many circular foundations, very regularly 
 built of granite blocks, and varying in diameter from 
 six to fifteen feet. They were built in groups at con- 
 siderable intervals apart, and we counted over forty 
 of them. Some of these circular foundations have a 
 double circle, as if for a step ; the probability is that 
 they formed the foundations of stone huts like those 
 found in the Marico district of the Transvaal, and were 
 the homes of the ancient inhabitants under the protect- 
 ing wing of the temple-fortress. There are no traces 
 of these circular foundations within the walls of the 
 enclosure, but all were found outside within a radius 
 of two hundred yards. There are traces, too, of 
 other buildings about half-way down the slope of the 
 granite hills, two walls parallel to one another, about 
 thirty feet long, with doorways and six circular foun- 
 dations outside them. There are also two depres-
 
 140 THE ARCHAEOLOGY OF THE DISTRICT 
 
 sions on the eastern side of the hill, now filled up 
 with timber, which were probably the quarries 
 from which the builders obtained the stone for their 
 work. 
 
 About twelve miles to the north of Matindela, 
 near a mountain called Chiburwe, on another low 
 granite hill, we found another fort with similar circu- 
 lar foundations on the plain around it. This fort is 
 about forty feet in diameter, and the walls are of the 
 best period, with courses far more even than those of 
 Matindela, and the stones of more uniform size and 
 fitting more closely, corresponding to the best of the 
 buildings at the Great Zimbabwe. Here, too, was 
 another gigantic baobab tree, which had grown up 
 in the wall and knocked it down ; and here, too, the 
 south-eastern portion of the wall is much better and 
 ^thicker than the rest, which has in places either never 
 existed or fallen down ; but the destruction here was 
 so complete that it was impossible to tell if there 
 ever had been a pattern on it or not.
 
 141 
 
 CHAPTER V 
 
 ON THE ORIENTATION AND MEASUREMENTS OF 
 ZIMBABWE RUINS. BY R. M. W. SWAN. 
 
 THE form of nature worship which was practised at 
 Zimbabwe found one of its expressions in the worship 
 of the sun, and we have evidence of this cult in some 
 architectural features and decorations of the temples 
 themselves, and in the many images of the solar disc 
 which were found in the temples along with the other 
 symbols of the worship of reproductive power. It 
 was very natural that these two cults should be asso- 
 ciated together or merged in one, and it was common 
 to many early peoples to think of the sun in conjunc- 
 tion with moisture as the great creator of all vegetable 
 fertility, for even the most casual observation would 
 show them that in the dark days of winter the vege- 
 table world seemed to sleep, and that it only awoke to 
 activity when the sun's rays had become more power- 
 ful and while the soil was still moistened by rain. 
 
 All religions have their times and seasons for 
 special ceremonies of worship, and the appropriate 
 time for the greatest of these festivals of solar worship 
 
 L
 
 142 THE ARCHAEOLOGY OF THE DISTRICT 
 
 would be at mid-summer, when the sun seemed most 
 brilliant and his rays most energetic. Accordingly 
 we find that at Zimbabwe means had been provided 
 for ascertaining the time of the summer solstice, and 
 that the side of the temple which faced the rising sun 
 at this period of the year was adorned with a decora- 
 tion symbolical of fertility. 
 
 But the temples at Zimbabwe seem also to have 
 served a more directly practical purpose than that of 
 mere worship of the powers of nature, and while re- 
 gulating the festivals held in honour of natural powers, 
 to have provided the means of observing the passage 
 of the seasons and of fixing the limits of a tropical 
 year, and thus providing the elements of a calendar. 
 
 The duration of a day is clearly marked by an 
 apparent revolution of the sun, and from the most 
 remote antiquity a month has been equivalent to the 
 length of a lunation ; but there is no equally obvious 
 astronomical phenomenon to enable the length of the 
 year to be fixed ; and although the difference between 
 summer and winter is very apparent in most climates., 
 there is nothing which very obviously defines the 
 limits of these seasons, and the periods of spring and 
 autumn are even less marked. But the dates of all 
 festivals in solar worship would have some relation 
 to the seasons ; and, besides, the times for agricultural 
 and many other operations would require to be fixed, 
 and it would thus be doubly necessary to find means 
 of marking the progress of the year. By most ancient 
 peoples twelve lunations were considered to be equal
 
 MAP OF 
 
 ZIMBABWE DISTRICT. 
 
 L -2
 
 ZIMBABWE RUINS 145 
 
 to a tropical year, but it was soon discovered that 
 this was not so, for the several months did not long 
 coincide with their appropriate seasons, and so the 
 history of most ancient calendars tells of devices to 
 make the twelve lunar months of 29^ days each cor- 
 respond with the tropical year of 365J days. At 
 Zimbabwe things seem to have been better arranged, 
 unless there, too, as in ancient Egypt, they had their 
 troublesome civil year measured by twelve revolu- 
 tions of the moon, in addition to their sacred year 
 measured in the temples by an apparent revolution 
 of the sun among the stars. 
 
 The simplest way of ascertaining the period of a 
 tropical year is by observing the position of the sun 
 relatively to the equator, or its declination, and this 
 can conveniently be done either when the sun is on 
 the horizon or on the meridian, but most easily with 
 accuracy in the former way, as the angle to be sub- 
 divided will generally be greater, and greater accuracy 
 will be attained, because long shadows can more con- 
 veniently be used in this way than in the other. Or 
 the right ascension of the sun might also be observed ; 
 that is, its place among the stars, or its position 
 in the zodiac. This can be found most readily by 
 observing the heliacal rising of stars, or the meridian 
 passage of stars when the sun is near the horizon. 
 At Zimbabwe all of these methods seem to have been 
 used, and to do so does not necessarily imply more 
 astronomical knowledge than is possessed by the 
 peasantry in any of the more secluded districts of
 
 146 THE ARCHEOLOGY OF THE DISTRICT 
 
 Europe, where watches are not much used, and where 
 almanacks are not read, but where the people have 
 the habit of telling the time of the day and of the 
 year by the motions of the sun and of the stars ; 
 for to an agricultural people the change in position 
 of the sun in summer and winter is as obvious as 
 the seasons themselves, and the variation of the 
 times of rising of the stars with the seasons can 
 as little escape observation. Herodotus tells us that 
 the Greeks used the gnomon to measure the length 
 of shadows, and thus ascertain the position of the sun 
 at midday, or its declination. The Chinese also used 
 it at a very early period, and we have similar 
 arrangements in some of our modern churches. 
 Instances of the observation of the position of the 
 sun on the horizon, except at Zimbabwe, are few and 
 doubtful, although gnomons seem sometimes to have 
 been used for this purpose ; but ancient literature 
 contains very many references to the observation of 
 the heliacal risings of stars, and ancient architec- 
 tural remains illustrate these literary allusions. 
 Hesiod often speaks of the times of different agri- 
 cultural operations having been fixed by the rising 
 of stars, and Egyptian records tell us that the rising 
 of Sirius was observed at the overflowing of the 
 Nile ; also it has recently been found that both 
 Egyptian and Greek temples were generally built so 
 that the rising of some star could be observed from 
 their sanctuaries, and a coincidence has been traced 
 between the date of the great festival proper to each
 
 ZIMBABWE RUINS 147 
 
 temple and the time of the heliacal rising of the star 
 towards which the axis of the temple was originally 
 directed. The Malays, at the beginning of this 
 present century, had a tradition that their seed-time 
 had in old days been very well fixed by the rising 
 of the Pleiades, but that since they had become 
 Mohammedans the festivals of their religion and its 
 calendar did not so well regulate their seed-time as 
 was done in old times. It has been found that 
 means were provided by the ancient Egyptians for 
 observing the meridian transits of stars ; and did we 
 possess detailed and carefully oriented plans of the 
 temples of Chaldaea and Assyria, there is little doubt 
 that we should find that the meridian had been 
 observed there also. 
 
 Thus it is evident that the several means which 
 were adopted at Zimbabwe for observing the motions 
 of the heavenly bodies were used in other countries 
 also, and in all cases they seem to have been used 
 for regulating the time of celebration of religious 
 festivals as well as the ordinary affairs of life. Forms 
 of nature worship analogous to that practised at 
 Zimbabwe seem often to have been accompanied in 
 other countries by an observation of the heavenly 
 bodies. It is also worthy of note that the stars 
 which were observed at Zimbabwe seem all to have 
 been northern ones, and the builders of these temples 
 probably acquired the habit of observing these stars 
 in the northern hemisphere. To this we shall refer 
 
 again.
 
 148 THE ARCHEOLOGY OF THE DISTRICT 
 
 What El Masoudi says of the temples of the 
 Sabseans of Mesopotamia does not, of course, directly 
 apply to the temples at Zimbabwe ; but in the plans 
 of those temples one is reminded of the multiform 
 temples which he describes, and of the mysteries 
 involved in some of their architectural features which 
 he could not fathom, for in these temples of Mashona- 
 land there are some curious evidences of design in 
 plan. A glance at the plan of the great temple 
 suggests that the architects had carelessly drawn a 
 great ellipse on the ground and built round it, getting 
 occasionally out of line and leaving occasional door- 
 ways ; but when one realises the wonderfully careful 
 nature of the masonry, and the great accuracy with 
 which the comparatively rough stones have been laid 
 in regular courses, and been forced to combine to 
 produce regular forms, and when a careful plan of 
 the whole building has been made, then it is seen 
 that what were regarded as careless irregularities 
 in construction are, in reality, carefully constructed 
 architectural features, which doubtless had some 
 religious significance to the worshippers, but whose 
 meaning remains a mystery to us. 
 
 The walls which are lightly shaded in the accom- 
 panying plans are much inferior in construction to 
 the more darkly shaded walls, for while the latter 
 are built in most regular courses, and the stones are 
 most carefully packed in the whole thickness of the 
 walls, the former, though sometimes having the ex- 
 terior courses laid with some regularity, are most
 
 ZIMBABWE RUINS 
 
 149 
 
 carelessly built in their interior, and the stones seem 
 to have been laid in anyhow, and consequently there 
 is a great difference in the durability of these walls ; 
 and while it would almost be possible to drive a cart 
 
 Scale of Feet 
 
 A B shows present top of tower, c D shows outline of walls as seen in 
 illustration, Chap. VI. 
 
 THE TWO TOWERS 
 
 along the top of the better-built part of the outer 
 wall, one can only creep along the top of the worse- 
 built portion while risking a fall. Besides, the better- 
 built and the worse-built portions of the outer wall do 
 not unite near the great doorway, and the foundation
 
 150 
 
 THE ARCILEOLOGY OF THE DISTRICT 
 
 of the well-built walls turns outward, as is shown in the 
 plan. The worse-built walls of all the temples do 
 not show any of the peculiarities of design so cha- 
 racteristic of the better walls, except in two instances, 
 where they seem to be rough reconstructions of older 
 walls. We may, therefore, assume that these poorer 
 
 COIN OF BYBLOS SHOWING THE ROUND TOWER 
 
 walls are not of the original period, and that they 
 were built by a people who either did not practise 
 solar worship or who did not do so under the 
 original forms. We will, therefore, disregard the 
 poor walls in studying the plans of the temples. It 
 is much to be regretted that we could recover no 
 plan of the western side of the original outer wall, as
 
 ZIMBABWE RUINS 151 
 
 it might have made clear to us the meaning of many 
 of the features of the eastern wall. 
 
 The most important feature in the interior of 
 the temple is, of course, the great tower, which is 
 a marvel of workmanship in rough material, and in 
 the truth of its lines almost as wonderful as the 
 column of a Greek temple. We could at first dis- 
 cover no reason for its being built in its peculiar 
 position. It has not been placed with any reference 
 to the points of the compass nor to the bearing of 
 the sun at the equinoxes, and its position is only 
 indirectly connected with the position of the sun at 
 the solstices. But it is in the middle of the space 
 marked off by the two inner doorways, and the more 
 easterly of these two doorways is at the point where 
 the sun would appear when rising at the summer 
 solstice when regarded from the central altar, as will 
 be shown farther on ; and the other doorway is at 
 the point where the decoration on the outer wall 
 terminates, and that is at the part of the wall where 
 the sun's rays would be tangential to its curve when 
 rising at the same solstice. The portion of the outer 
 wall behind the above-mentioned sacred enclosure is 
 built in the form of a circular arc with its two ex- 
 tremities at B and K, and its centre at p, and the 
 tower stands midway between these points. Close to 
 the great tower is the little one, and no reason for 
 its position suggests itself; but the relative propor- 
 tions of the two towers are curious, and seem to offer 
 an explanation of the plan of some other parts of
 
 152 THE ARCHAEOLOGY OF THE DISTRICT 
 
 the building in fact, the diameter of the great tower 
 seems to have represented the unit of measure in 
 the construction of the curves of the outer walls and 
 of all the regularly curved inner walls in the great 
 temple, and in all the well-built temples in Mashona- 
 land. The diameter of the great tower at its base is 
 17*17 feet or 10 cubits, 1 and this is exactly equal to 
 the circumference of the little tower. This ratio of 
 circumference to diameter and the above measure of 
 10 cubits seem together to have determined either 
 the length of the radius or diameter, or halves of 
 these, of all the circular curves on which many of 
 the walls are built. For instance, the radius of the 
 curve behind the great tower is 169^ feet, and this 
 is equal to the diameter of the great tower multiplied 
 by the square of the ratio of circumference to 
 diameter; or 17-17 x 3'14 2 = 169-34. The well- 
 built partly circular enclosure to the north-west of 
 the tower has a diameter of 54 feet, and this is equal 
 to 17-17 x 3'14. The curve of the outer wall, from 
 the eastern end of the sacred enclosure (at K) to A 
 is circular, and has its centre at the altar, and its 
 radius is 107|- feet. This is equal to twice 17-17 x 
 3-14. This length of 107-f feet is also the exact 
 distance between the middle points of the two door- 
 
 1 17*17 feet is equal to 10 cubits of 2OG2 inches: and as all 
 parts of the building which we have been able to measure accm'ately, 
 and all small articles which would probably be made on any scale of 
 measure, apparently have been made in terms of a cubit of this length, 
 it seems probable that this cubit was one of the standards of measure 
 in use.
 
 ZIMBABWE RUINS 155 
 
 ways at either end of the sacred enclosure. The 
 curve of the outer wall from A to the great doorway 
 seems to have a similar radius to the arc behind the 
 tower, namely, 169^- feet, but in our measurements 
 there we hardly fixed a sufficient number of points 
 in the line of the wall to make quite certain of this. 
 The inner long wall is parallel to the outer one until 
 it reaches the sacred enclosure, so it may be con- 
 sidered as combined with the outer wall for our 
 present purpose. Besides these there are no well- 
 built curved walls in the great temple, except the 
 piece of wall near the monoliths at M, and it is too 
 short to allow of the centre of its curve being laid 
 down with certainty of accuracy. It does not, how- 
 ever, seem to belie this system of measurement. 
 
 We need hardly expect to find the same measure 
 always applying to the buildings on the hill, for the 
 form of these buildings is often controlled by the 
 nature of the ground. Still they do apply, and the 
 diameter of the curve on which the wall of the 
 eastern temple is built is 84^- feet, which is equal to 
 half of 17-17 x 3-14 2 . Of the two curved walls on 
 the left hand when entering this temple from the 
 south the diameter of the curve of one is equal to 
 17-17 x 3-14, and the radius of the other is 17'17 
 feet. The only other regularly curved wall on the 
 hill is the western great wall with monoliths and 
 round towers, and the diameter of the circle of which 
 the curve of this wall forms a part is 254 feet, and 
 this does not agree with our system of measure.
 
 156 THE ARCHAEOLOGY OF THE DISTRICT 
 
 But this wall and its towers are not well built, and 
 there is good reason to suppose that it is not the 
 original wall, or that the outer portion of it is riot 
 original ; and, in fact, we discovered the foundation of 
 part of another parallel wall, as is partly shown in 
 plan, six feet west of this wall. If this were the 
 original wall, it would give a diameter of 266 feet 
 for the circle, which is half of 17'17 x 3'14 3 . 
 
 At Matindela the only regularly curved piece of 
 wall is that about the principal doorway, but it is so 
 rough in its construction that -one hesitates to deal 
 with it, and we can only say that it seems to be built 
 on a curve of 107f feet radius = twice 17'17 x 3'14. 
 The whole appearance of this wall and the slight 
 inaccuracies in the orientation of the decorations 
 which it carries, suggest that it is a more recent 
 wall built roughly as a copy of an original wall on 
 the same foundation. 
 
 The ruin at the Lundi River is circular in form 
 and well built, and its diameter is fifty-four feet, which 
 is equal to 17-17 x 3'14. 
 
 Of course all the above measurements refer to 
 the outside of the walls at the base, as this is the 
 way in which the tower itself was measured. 
 
 The same principle of measurement applies to the 
 curves which determine the shape of the two towers 
 themselves, and this explains why it is that the little 
 tower tapers much more rapidly towards the top 
 than does the great one. If we describe a circular 
 curve with its centre on the same level as the base
 
 ZIMBABWE RUINS 157 
 
 of the great tower and its radius equal to twice 
 17-17 x 3-14 on 107f feet, we find that it exactly fits 
 the outline of the great tower as it is shown in our 
 photographs. Also, a curve described in a similar 
 way but with a radius equal to twice the diameter of 
 the little tower multiplied by 3'14 (5*45 x 3*14 x 2 = 
 34- 34 feet) will correspond to the outline of that 
 tower. 
 
 The towers when built were doubtless made com- 
 plete in their mathematical form and were carried up 
 to a point as we see in a coin of Byblos, where we 
 have a similar tower represented with curved outlines. 
 Their heights as determined by these curves would 
 be 42-3 and 13 '5 feet respectively, and these numbers 
 also bear the same relation to each other that the 
 circumference of a circle does to its diameter. 
 
 We have no explanation to give of the position of 
 the little tower relatively to the great one, but there 
 probably was some meaning in it which might appear 
 had we a plan of the original walls around the towers. 
 It is very doubtful that these walls, which now mark 
 of]' I he sacred enclosure, are of the same period as the 
 d IWHI-S. They are shaded darkly in our plan because 
 1 1 icy arc fairly well built ; but although they are better 
 built than most of the secondary walls, yet they are 
 not equal in point of execution to the great outer 
 wall and the towers, and their lines, too, are not so 
 regular as those of the original walls generally are. 
 It seems probable that they are rough copies of some 
 old walls which had fallen, and are wanting in some 
 
 M
 
 158 THE ARCHAEOLOGY OF THE DISTRICT 
 
 of the essential features of their originals. We can 
 only say that the centre of one tower is distant 17-17 
 feet from the centre of the other, within a limit of 
 error of two inches. 
 
 The angular height of both the towers measured 
 from the centres of the curves which determine their 
 forms is the same namely 23 1'. 
 
 None of the angular values of the arcs seem to 
 have been of any special significance, except perhaps 
 the angle at the altar in the great temple, which is sub- 
 tended by the arc AK. The value of this angle is about 
 57, and is equal to our modern unit of the circular 
 measure of an angle, which is the angle at the centre 
 of any circle that is subtended by an arc equal to the 
 radius. It is hardly likely that it can have had this 
 meaning to the builders of the temple, and the pro- 
 bable cause of the coincidence is that at A they 
 meant to halve the angular distance between K and 
 the doorway. Besides, the sun's rays, when it rises at 
 the summer solstice, do not fall directly on the part of 
 the wall beyond A, and this probably had some con- 
 nection with their reason for changing the radius of 
 the arc at this point. 
 
 There is no evidence that any of the trigono- 
 metrical functions were known to the builders of 
 Zimbabwe ; not even the chord, which was probably 
 the earliest recognised function of an angle, for the 
 chords of the various arcs bear no simple relation to 
 each other. The only interesting mathematical fact 
 which seems to have been embodied in the archi-
 
 ZIMBABWE RUINS 159 
 
 lecture of the temples is the ratio of diameter to 
 circumference, and it may have had an occult signifi- 
 cance in the peculiar form of nature worship which 
 was practised there. We do not suppose that it was 
 intended to symbolise anything of an astronomical 
 nature, and it is extremely improbable that the 
 builders of Zimbabwe had any notion of mathematical 
 astronomy, for their astronomy was purely empirical, 
 and amounted merely to an observation of the more 
 obvious motions of the heavenly bodies. When the 
 minds of men were first interested in geometry it 
 would at once occur to them that there must be some 
 constant ratio between the circumference of a circle 
 and its diameter, and they would easily discover what 
 this ratio was, and they may have considered this dis- 
 covery so important arid significant that they desired 
 I o express it in their architecture. Analogous instances 
 of an embodiment of simple mathematical principles 
 in architectural forms will occur to every one. 
 
 The centres of the arcs seem generally to have 
 been important points, and altars were sometimes 
 erected at them from which the culminations or 
 meridian transits of stars could be observed, and 
 on which sacrifices were probably offered to the sun 
 when it was rising or setting at either of the solstices. 
 
 Around the outside of the wall of the great temple, 
 between the points marked A and B on plan, there 
 extend two bands of a kind of chevron pattern, formed, 
 as will be seen from, the illustrations, by placing stones 
 oji their edges. This pattern seems to have been
 
 160 THE ARCHEOLOGY OF THE DISTRICT 
 
 symbolical of fertility, and it extends along tlie part 
 of the wall which receives directly the rays of the 
 sun when rising at the summer solstice. It reminds 
 one of the Egyptian hieroglyphic symbol for water, 
 and of how naturally the idea of water would be as- 
 sociated with fertility in the mind of a solar wor- 
 shipper. It also resembles the symbol for the zodiacal 
 sign of Aquarius, and we might suppose that the 
 temple was built when the sun was in this sign of the 
 zodiac at the summer solstice, did such a supposition 
 not carry us back to too remote a period. Besides, 
 the sun is generally believed to have been in Capri- 
 cornus at the December solstice at the period at 
 which the zodiac was invented, and when its signs 
 received their names. 
 
 One hundred and seven and four-fifths feet from 
 A and the same distance from K and from li is 
 the centre of the arc AK, and at this point is some 
 ruined masonry which seems once to have formed an 
 altar. Zimbabwe is in South latitude 20 16' 30", and 
 consequently the sun, when rising there at the sum- 
 mer solstice, would bear East 25 South wen; flu' 
 horizon level. But Mount Varoma interpuses itself 
 between the temple and the rising sun at this time, 
 so that the sun attains an altitude of 5 before its 
 rays reach the temple. Then its amplitude will be 
 more nearly 24, and a line produced in this direction 
 from the altar will pass across the doorway of the 
 sacred enclosure, where the curve of the wall changes 
 its radius, and, roughly speaking, through the middle
 
 ZIMBABWE RUINS 161 
 
 of the chevron pattern. The same line drawn in an 
 opposite direction for seventy-three feet would fall 
 on a tall monolith which we there found lying by its 
 well-built foundation. Where the pattern ends at A 
 and B the rays of the sun are nearly tangential to the 
 wall, so that all parts of the wall, and those parts 
 only, which receive the direct rays of the sun when 
 rising at the summer solstice are decorated by this 
 symbolical pattern. 
 
 The sun's rays would not fall on the altar at this 
 time, and it seems strange to have an altar devoted 
 to solar worship under the shadow of a wall ; but the 
 same objection would apply to every part of the 
 interior of the temple, and we can hardly suppose 
 that the priests at Zimbabwe performed their cere- 
 monies of worship outside of the temple, as some 
 tribes of Arabs do with some stone circles at the 
 present, day, neither is there any sign of such cere- 
 monies having been performed on the top of the 
 broad wall. The monolith, seventy-three feet from 
 the altar, was sufficiently tall to receive the rays of 
 the sun when it rose over Mount Varoma, and the 
 shadow of a monolith erected on the wall at K 
 would fall on it at the same time, thus marking with 
 great accuracy the occurrence of the solstice. Mono- 
 liths had been erected at intervals along the decorated 
 part, and only on this part, of the wall, and these 
 may have served to indicate other periods of the year 
 in a similar way. 
 
 Near the top of the great tower, which at present
 
 162 THE ARCHAEOLOGY OF THE DISTRICT 
 
 stands thirty-two feet high, there is a dentelle pattern, 
 which may be described as a chevron pattern laid 
 on its side, and which resembles a common Egyptian 
 pattern. This extends partly round the tower, but 
 it is impossible to determine its aspect with accuracy 
 as so much of it has fallen away. ' It seems, however, 
 to have faced the setting sun at the winter solstice. 
 
 At the temple at the east end of the fortress on 
 the hill similar means are provided for observing the 
 summer solstice. Only a small part of the decorated 
 wall remains, the middle part, which was of great 
 height, having fallen, so that we do not know how 
 far the decoration may have extended towards the 
 south. On the other side it terminates at the door- 
 way, which is placed close to the high cliff which 
 forms the northern side of the temple. We discovered 
 the altar, with several phalli and many little terra- 
 cotta images of the solar disc lying near it, and some 
 among the stones of the altar. This altar is not at 
 the centre of the arc, but is placed ten feet nearer 
 the rising sun at the solstice, and its position seems 
 to be due to the position of the break in the cliff, 
 whicli is true north of the altar, so that the meridian 
 can be observed through this passage from the altar 
 in its actual position, and it could not have been 
 observed from the altar were it placed at the centre 
 of the arc. It was impossible to describe the arc 
 with the altar as its centre owing to the position of 
 some rocks which would have interfered with the 
 building of the wall. At the summer solstice the sun
 
 ZIMBABWE RUINS 163 
 
 rises here on a level horizon and bears East 25 South, 
 and a line drawn from the altar in this direction passes 
 through the pattern, and continued for ten feet in the 
 opposite direction it would fall on the centre of the arc. 
 
 The great curved wall at the western end of the 
 fortress, which is surmounted by little round towers 
 and erect monoliths, faces the setting sun at the 
 winter solstice. If we suppose the altar was placed 
 here, we have on an eminence marked A, fifty feet 
 true north of the altar, a tall monolith which would 
 enable the meridian transits of northern stars to be 
 observed from the altar, and a line drawn from 
 this altar towards the setting sun at the winter sol- 
 stice would seem to have passed through the middle 
 of the line of towers and monoliths. This great 
 wall is not so well built as the walls at the eastern 
 temple, and it seems probable that it is a restoration 
 of an old wall which was originally parallel to this, 
 and whose foundations we discovered as already 
 mentioned. Possibly on the original wall the round 
 towers and monoliths were aligned between the altar 
 and the setting sun at certain definite periods of the 
 year. At present they do not seem to mark any 
 important periods, but the position of the setting sun 
 at the summer solstice is well marked by a round 
 tower on the wall overhanging the high cliff, and this 
 is undoubtedly a wall of the best period. 
 
 At this western end of the fortress we have two 
 instances of parts of walls which faced the setting
 
 164 THE ARCHAEOLOGY OF THE DISTRICT 
 
 sun at the winter solstice being decorated by a den- 
 telle pattern. 
 
 The disposition of the ornamental patterns on the 
 little round ruin at the Lundi Eiver is interesting. It 
 faces the rising sun at the winter solstice, but the 
 place had been inhabited by Kaffirs, and all vestige 
 of an altar, if it ever existed, had been destroyed. 
 The nature of the patterns here is different from that 
 of those at Zimbabwe. The one near the top of the 
 wall is composed of two rows of little squares alter- 
 nating with blank spaces, and a little way below this 
 are two rows of a herring-bone pattern. There is a 
 curious rounded protuberance on the outside of the 
 wall, and thelierring-bone pattern stops at this point, 
 but the other extends right round to the south- 
 eastern doorway. 
 
 This temple is similar in many ways to the partly 
 circular one north-west of the great tower at Zim- 
 nabwe. They have both the same diameter and they 
 each have two doorways which are in somewhat 
 similar positions, although the temple at the Lundi is 
 oriented towards the rising sun at the winter solstice, 
 and the other, if it ever had a pattern, would have 
 had it facing the setting sun at this solstice. 
 
 The dentelle pattern on the great tower seems to 
 have been oriented towards the setting sun at the 
 winter solstice, and the centre of the partly circular 
 temple at G is roughly in a line between the centre of 
 the tower and the sun at this time. When the sun is 
 rising at the summer solstice G will be behind the
 
 ZIMBABWE RUINS 165 
 
 lower and in the middle of its shadow, in a position 
 analogous to that of the altar behind the arc AK. 
 The direction of the wall at the north-eastern ex- 
 tremity of the arc of which G is the centre is towards 
 the rising sun at the winter solstice, and its inner side 
 points past the centre of the arc AK 1 towards the 
 point of the outer wall which is in a straight line 
 between the altar and the sun when it rises at this 
 solstice. The wall at the other extremity of the arc 
 points to the rising sun at the other solstice. 
 
 It is perhaps worthy of remark that the centre of 
 the great tower is distant the length of its own 
 height (42*3 feet) from the solstitial line MK, while the 
 centre of the little tower would be the same distance 
 from a parallel solstitial line drawn from the south- 
 eastern extremity of the arc of which G is the centre ; 
 and also that the centres of the great tower and the 
 centres of the arcs AK and KF, lie in one straight line. 
 
 At Matindela the general aspect of the decorated 
 part of I he building is towards the setting sun, but 
 the masonry is so rough in its construction that we 
 need expect little accuracy in orientation. The whole 
 appearance of the place suggests that what exists at 
 present is merely a rough rebuilding of an older 
 structure. What remains of the internal arrangements 
 of the building is very fragmentary, and we could 
 find no trace of an altar. Over the doorway there 
 is a herring-bone pattern facing the setting sun at 
 the summer solstice, and adjoining this on its north 
 
 1 This is not very accurately shown in the small scale plan.
 
 166 THE ARCHAEOLOGY OF THE DISTRICT 
 
 side there is a band of ornament of the dentelle kind 
 with a similar aspect. Above this dentelle pattern 
 there is a loophole in the wall which may have served 
 to pass a ray of light from the setting sun to an altar 
 at some festival. Farther along the wall there is 
 another pattern facing the setting sun at the winter 
 solstice, and on the inside of the wall yet another 
 looking towards the rising sun at the summer solstice. 
 The construction of the doorways at Matindela is 
 remarkable. They have been originally made of 
 considerable width, and then been narrowed very . 
 much by square masses of masonry which were built 
 at both sides. The direction of the doorways also 
 seems to have some meaning, for three of them look 
 East 25 North, and four East 25 South, thus corre- 
 sponding to the direction of the sun rising and setting 
 at the solstices. 
 
 At the Mazoe Valley, and to the north-east of 
 Matindela, near Mount Chiburwe, there are well- 
 built ruins of the best period of this style of architec- 
 ture, but, unfortunately, too little of them remains to 
 allow us to understand their plans. They are both 
 very small, and are not circular, like the Lundi River 
 ruin, but their walls seem to have been built on a 
 series of curves like the wall of the great temple. A 
 very extraordinary thing regarding all the older ruins 
 in Mashonaland is the way in which the stones which 
 once composed the walls have disappeared. They 
 have not been covered up by soil, and there is no 
 trace of them in the surrounding country, and yet in
 
 ZIMBABWE RUINS 167 
 
 these two ruins not one-twentieth part of the stones 
 remain, and all that do remain are in their original 
 planes in the walls. 
 
 When the western wall was rebuilt at the great 
 temple at Zimbabwe there was apparently a want of 
 stones, and the rebuilders were too lazy to procure 
 more, so they probably shortened the wall by de- 
 creasing the size of the temple, and also economised 
 stones by making the new wall much less thick. 
 
 The place marked A near the western end of 
 Zimbabwe Hill is remarkable. It is a natural 
 eminence, the height of which has been increased by 
 building. To the south of it is a great mass of 
 masonry which is pierced by several roofed passages, 
 and over which a winding stairway leads from the 
 eastern buildings to the eminence, while a similar 
 staircase leads from the eminence towards the build- 
 ings lying northward. To the eastward of the 
 eminence tower great granite boulders, the termina- 
 tion at this end of that line of boulders which caps 
 the hill along its whole length, and which protects 
 the fortress on the north side. At the highest point 
 of the eminence is erected the great monolith before 
 referred to, which seems to have marked the meridian 
 for the altar at R. Close to this monolith stood 
 another made of soapstone. We found its base in 
 its place, and its other fragments, shown in the 
 illustration, were all discovered near. This mono- 
 lith was decorated with bands of the chevron pat- 
 tern running halfway round, with images of the
 
 168 THE ARCHEOLOGY OF THE DISTRICT 
 
 sun and other geometrical patterns placed between 
 the bands. It seems probable that it served as 
 a gnomon, and that means had been provided for 
 measuring the length of its shadow at midday. 
 The foundation of the monolith is twenty-five feet 
 higher than the site of the altar, and the monolith itself 
 was ten feet long, so that we have a total height for its 
 summit of thirty-five feet above the base of the altar, 
 and it stood fifty feet true north of the altar. At 
 Zimbabwe the altitude of the upper limb of the sun at 
 midday, at the winter solstice, is about 46^, so that the 
 top of the monolith would then throw its shadow in the 
 direction of the altar, and to within about seventeen 
 feet of its centre. Probably some arrangement had 
 been made near the altar for observing the length of 
 its shadow ; and were the shadow received on an in- 
 clined plane or staircase, as seems to have been done 
 with the dial of Ahaz, mentioned in the Old Testa- 
 ment, it might be lengthened to any extent and its 
 variations in length increased in magnitude ; and so 
 the change in declination of the sun could be observed 
 with considerable accuracy. The sun is little more 
 than three degrees south of Zimbabwe at midsummer, 
 and it would be difficult to measure with accuracy the 
 short shadows then cast, and we do not find anything 
 to show that they had been observed, and the means 
 provided in the two other temples for observing the 
 position of the sun on the horizon would be much 
 more effectual for fixing this solstice. 
 
 The positions of the doorways relatively to the
 
 ZIMBABWE RUINS 169 
 
 altars or the centres of the arcs is of interest ; and 
 we find that every important doorway in walls of the 
 original period, with the exception of the south-eastern 
 doorway in the temple at the Luudi, and the south- 
 Avc.stern one in the partly circular interior temple at 
 Ximbabwe, is placed true north of the centre of an 
 arc or of an altar, and the centre of every arc has had 
 a doorway or some other means of marking out the 
 meridian placed north of it. True north of the centre 
 of the tower itself we have a doorway in the wall of 
 the sacred enclosure, and although the wall in which 
 this doorway is made was probably not built at the 
 original period, yet there probably was a doorway 
 in a similar position in the wall which it has replaced. 
 The part of the great outer wall north of the tower 
 seems also to have been marked, for about this point 
 we found a great step constructed on its top about 
 live feet high. 
 
 Above the temple at the east end of the fortress 
 on the hill, a cliff rises perpendicularly for fifty feet, 
 and poised on its top there stands a most remarkable 
 great rock which may once have been an object of 
 vriieration to the worshippers in the teinple beneath 
 it. It forms one of the highest points on the hill. A 
 line drawn true south from this rock and produced 
 680 yards would pass through the doorway in the 
 great temple and fall on the altar in the centre of 
 the decorated arc. Until this line suggested itself we 
 were puzzled to account for the peculiar character 
 of the doorway. It passes through a wall sixteen
 
 170 THE ARCHEOLOGY OF THE DISTRICT 
 
 feet thick, and is itself only three feet wide, and it 
 does not pass through the wall at right angles, but 
 cuts it somewhat obliquely, so that its axis is 
 roughly parallel to the meridian line. 
 
 A line drawn true north from the centre of the 
 arc at G will pass through the doorway of the small 
 temple and the centre of the arc KB at p. This line 
 points through the outer wall where the gap occurs, 
 and it is probable that the opening which was made 
 in the outer wall to allow of observation along this 
 line, determined its fall at this point. This meridian 
 line is thirty-six feet distant from the other from the 
 centre of the arc AK, and it must have pointed to 
 the same great stone. But if both these lines point 
 to the middle of this stone, which is 680 yards 
 distant, they will incline towards each other about 
 one degree, and the time of the transit of a star 
 over the stone observed by one line will differ four 
 minutes from that observed by the other. This 
 inaccuracy would be so obvious to the observers 
 that we cannot suppose they would have worked in 
 this way. The great stone measures nearly, if not 
 quite, thirty-two feet across, and were the lines 
 directed, not both to its centre, but one to either side, 
 they would be parallel to each other and would both 
 give the same time for a transit of a star. This would 
 imply that stars were observed, not passing over the 
 stone, but disappearing and reappearing behind it, 
 and a star observed at the altar to disappear would 
 at the same instant reappear to an observer at G and
 
 WITHIX THE DOUBLE WALLS. ZIMBABWE.
 
 ZIMBABWE KUINS 173 
 
 P ; or if the rock were less than thirty-two feet wide 
 the star would reappear at G and P before it dis- 
 appeared at the altar. We have thus a sort of double 
 observation of the same meridian transit. 
 
 If we admit that these meridian lines were used 
 for the observation of stars in this way, and if we can 
 determine what star or stars were observed, the time 
 that has elapsed since they were observed admits of 
 calculation. The apparent altitude of the middle of 
 the stone as seen from the centres of the arcs is 7-|, 
 and the latitude of Zimbabwe is 20 16' 30", so that we 
 want stars having a north polar distance of about 28. 
 Owing to the changing direction of the pole of the 
 earth, which produces the phenomenon of the preces- 
 sion of the equinoxes, the decimations and right ascen- 
 sions of all the stars are undergoing a slow but regular 
 change ; but there are no stars of the first magnitude 
 which have had approximately this polar distance 
 since any probable date of the foundation of Zimbab- 
 we. Of stars of the second magnitude there are four, 
 and of the third magnitude many more, which may 
 have been used, and they would all serve for widely 
 different periods. In order to enable us to select the 
 proper star from this number we must have its right 
 ascension, and this we may yet hope to get when we 
 have the date of some important yearly festival at 
 Zimbabwe, and the hour at which the star would 
 be wanted on the meridian on the night of this 
 festival. 
 
 There are two other places where the meridian
 
 174 THE ARCHEOLOGY OF THE DISTRICT 
 
 transits of stars have been watched at Zimbabwe, and 
 in these cases it is still the same portion of the heavens 
 which has been observed. The altar in the eastern 
 temple in the fortress has been placed ten feet E.S.E. 
 of the centre of the arc, in order to permit of the 
 meridian being observed through the gap in the rock 
 which formed the northern doorway. Here the line 
 laid off is much shorter than that between the rock 
 and the great temple, but still fairly accurate observa- 
 tions could be made. To the north of the centre of 
 the arc of the great wall of the western temple there 
 is, as we have already shown, a great monolith erected, 
 and at one side of this the stars might be observed 
 at their culminations. As seen from the altar this 
 monolith would mark out an angular distance of 9 
 of the meridian. 
 
 It is remarkable that only stars of the northern 
 hemisphere seem to have been observed at Zimbabwe, 
 for in the great temple itself the culminations of 
 southern stars could quite as easily have been observed 
 as those of northern ones, and in the fortress all view 
 of the northern sky is almoet completely shut off by 
 the cliffs and huge boulders which form its northern 
 line of defence ; yet every point from which northern 
 stars could have been observed has been used for this 
 purpose, and there is no temple there from which 
 northern stars were not observed, while at the same 
 time the openly displayed southern sky has been left 
 unregarded. This, of course, points to a northern 
 origin for the people, and suggests that before they
 
 ZIMBABWE RUINS 175 
 
 came to Zimbabwe they had acquired the habit of 
 observing certain stars a habit so strong that it led 
 them to disregard the use of the southern constella- 
 tions, though they must have known that they would 
 equally well have served to regulate their calendar ; 
 it even seems to indicate that they attached ideas of 
 veneration to certain stars, and rendered them wor- 
 ship. It seems a plausible supposition that while the 
 great temple itself was devoted to solar and analogous 
 forms of worship, the little circular, or partly circular, 
 temples within its walls, of which we found one fairly 
 well preserved and fragmentary remains of several 
 others, were dedicated to the cult of particular 
 stars. 
 
 There is no sign in the temples of any observation 
 of anything external to the temples themselves, unless 
 of the heavenly bodies ; and no features of the sur- 
 7-ounding country, such as prominent mountain-peaks 
 or great isolated rocks, of which there are many 
 striking instances near the temples, have had any 
 regard at all paid to them. The outer walls, with 
 the exception of the decoration towards the solstices, 
 are featureless and blank, and the doorways, where 
 one might expect ornament, are extremely narrow and 
 entirely plain. When one is within the great temple 
 one realises how fitting a place it is in which to observe 
 the starry sky, for the high walls around exclude all 
 view of the landscape, and the only objects which 
 attract one's attention are the heavenly bodies above 
 one ; and at night-time one feels how easily the
 
 176 THE AROH/EOLOGY OF THE DISTRICT 
 
 thoughts of a star-worshipper could be concentrated 
 on their proper object. 
 
 It is incredible that such a style of architecture 
 as we have described, and such a civilisation as 
 it signifies, could have originated and developed in 
 South Africa, for such a development would have 
 required a very long time, and would have implied 
 at least a long and peaceful settlement in the country ; 
 and although the builders of Zimbabwe may have 
 long possessed the place, yet it is apparent that they 
 never considered the country was their own. This 
 is clear from the nature of their defences and the 
 strength of their fortifications. Had the}'- lived long 
 enough in the land to alter or develop any of their 
 arts independently of their mother country, they would 
 have left a deeper mark on their surroundings than 
 they have ; besides, living as they must have lived, 
 they could not have increased in civilisation, nor de- 
 veloped any of its arts, and we may assume that they 
 had their architecture as well as their religion in 
 common with their mother country. The balance of 
 probabilities seems to be in favour of that country 
 being South Arabia; and when it and Abyssinia, with 
 which it was so long associated, are better known, we 
 may find temples which are built of similar small 
 stones and with similar mathematical and other 
 peculiarities in their construction. Our information 
 of these countries is meagre, but some of those build- 
 ings which are known in Yemen, which seem to com- 
 bine temple and fortress in one, as on Zimbabwe Hill,
 
 ZIMBABWE RUINS 177 
 
 may have been built by the same race that constructed 
 Zimbabwe ; and the elliptic temples at Marib and 
 Sirwah, and the one at Nakab al Hajar, with its north 
 and south doorways seeming to indicate an observation 
 of the meridian, may embody some of the mathe- 
 matical principles illustrated by the ruins of Mashona- 
 land. 
 
 When the original builders of Zimbabwe have 
 been traced to their home, it will remain to discover 
 who were their successors in Mashonalaiid that rebuilt 
 the western wall of the great temple and some portions 
 of other buildings, for this certainly was not done by 
 any of the present negro races. 
 
 There is nothing to show that even these walls 
 do not belong to a now far distant time; for al- 
 though they would not long remain in this country, 
 yet at Zimbabwe they might endure for an indefinite 
 period, for there, in a clear atmosphere free from dust, 
 and a tropical climate with its yearly torrential rains, 
 no soil can accumulate among the stones to support 
 vegetation which would destroy the walls. The few 
 small plants which grow even on the oldest walls are 
 of species which do not require much mineral matter 
 for their growth, and whose roots are so soft that they 
 mould themselves to the shape of the interstices in the 
 walls, but do not press asunder the stones. Besides, 
 the present inhabitants of the country do not use 
 stone in any of their constructions, and never trouble 
 themselves to remove stones from any existing walls, 
 so that more stones have probably been disturbed
 
 178 THE ARCHAEOLOGY OF THE DISTRICT 
 
 during the two years of British occupation of the 
 country than the Kaffirs would disturb in as many 
 centuries ; and under the old conditions the walls 
 might endure for an indefinite time. 1 
 
 1 There are many astronomical points in these buildings still to be 
 considered, and the results of further investigation will be published 
 later.
 
 CHAPTER VI 
 
 THE FINDS AT THE GREAT ZIMBABWE liUINS 
 
 IN I his chapter I propose to discuss all the objects 
 discovered during our excavations in the ruins as 
 apart from the buildings themselves, and to analyse the 
 light that they throw on the original constructors and 
 their cult. All these objects were found, with a few 
 minor exceptions, in the eastern temple on the fortress 
 As I have said, traces of a recent Kaffir habitation 
 will account for the absence of objects in the lower 
 buildings, but the upper ruin, sheltered from the sun 
 and hidden by trees and lofty boulders, was a spot 
 repugnant to the warmth-loving Kaffir, and to this 
 fact we owe the preservation of so many objects of 
 interest belonging to the ancient inhabitants. The 
 most remarkable feature in connection with the finds 
 is that everything of a decorative nature is made of a 
 steatitic schist or soapstone. This stone is found in 
 the country, and is still employed by natives farther 
 south in making pipes for smoking doklia or hemp ; 
 it lends itself easily to the tool of the artist, and is 
 very durable.
 
 180 
 
 THE ARCHAEOLOGY OF THE DISTRICT 
 
 First, let us take the birds perched on tall soap- 
 stone columns, which, from the position in which we 
 found most of them, would appear to have decorated 
 the outer wall of the semicircular temple on the hill. 
 These birds are all conventional in design. The tallest 
 stood 5 feet 4 inches in height, the smallest about 
 half a foot lower. We have six large ones and 
 
 two small ones in all, and 
 probably, from the number 
 of soapstone pedestals with 
 the tops broken off which we 
 found in the temple, there 
 were several more. Though 
 they are all different in 
 execution, they would ap- 
 pear to have been intended 
 to represent the same bird ; 
 from the only one in which the 
 beak * is preserved to us in- 
 tact, we undoubtedly recog- 
 nise that they must have 
 been intended to represent 
 hawks or vultures. The 
 thick neck and legs, the long 
 talons and the nature of the 
 plumage point more dis- 
 SOAPSTONK BIRD ON PEDESTAL tiiictlv to the vulture ; the 
 
 decorations on some of them, 
 
 namely, the dentelle pattern at the edge of the wings, 
 the necklace with a brooch in front and continued 
 
 1 Vide illustration, p. 181.
 
 THE FINDS AT THE GREAT ZIMBABWE RUINS 183 
 
 down the back, the raised rosette-shaped eyes, and 
 the pattern down the back, point to a high degree 
 of conventionality, evolved out of some sacred 
 symbolism of which these birds were the embodiment, 
 the nature of which symbolism it is now our object 
 to arrive at. Two of the birds, similar in character, 
 
 FRONT AND BACK OF A BROKEN SOAPSTONE BIRD ON PEDESTAL 
 
 with straight legs and fan-shaped tails different from 
 the others, are represented as perched on zones or 
 cesti ; two others have only indications of the cestus 
 beneath their feet ; a fifth, with nothing beneath 
 its feet, has two circles carved under it and two on 
 the wings l ; a sixth is perched on a chevron pattern 
 
 1 Vide Illustration, p. 181.
 
 184 THE ARCHEOLOGY OF THE DISTRICT 
 
 similar to that which decorates the large circular 
 temple ; hence there is a sort of similarity of sym- 
 bolism connecting them all. 
 
 We have now to look around for comparisons 
 
 1'KOKSTAL 
 
 by which we may hope to identify the origin of our 
 birds, and I have little doubt in stating that they are 
 closely akin to the Assyrian Astarte or Venus, and 
 represent the female element in creation. Similar
 
 THE FINDS AT THE GREAT ZIMBABWE RUINS 185 
 
 birds were sacred to Astarte amongst the Phoenicians 
 and are often represented as perched on her shrines. 
 Of the maternal aspect in which the ancient 
 Egyptians held the vulture we have ample evidence. 
 Horapollo tells us (I. 11) that the vulture was 
 emblematic of ' Urania, a year, a mother,' whilst 
 ^Elian goes so far as to suppose that all vultures were 
 females, to account for their character as emblems of 
 maternity. The cesti and the circles point obviously 
 to this, and these birds in connection with phallic 
 worship are interesting as emblems, signifying incuba- 
 tion. Let us now consult Lucian, 
 who in his work ' De Syria Dea ' de- 
 scribes a temple at Hierapolis, near 
 the Euphrates, which, as we have 
 seen, has much in common with these 
 temples at Zimbabwe. In 33, 
 p. 479, he mentions a curious pedi- 
 ment, of no distinctive shape, called 
 by the Assyrians ' the symbol,' on 
 the top of which is perched a bird. 
 Amongst some of Dr. Schliemann's 
 discoveries at Mycene, there are also 
 images surmounted by birds which 
 differ from the 6avov in the 'De 
 Syria Dea ' solely in the fact that they are not 
 shapeless, but represent a nude- female figure. The 
 goddess of this shrine was evidently Astarte, and wore 
 a cestus, ' with which none but Urania is adorned.' 1 
 
 1 Luciao, De Syria Dea, p. 477. 
 
 BIRD ON PEDESTAL 
 FROM THE ZODIAC 
 OF DENDERAH
 
 186 THE ARCHEOLOGY OF THK DISTRICT 
 
 On a Phoenician coin found in Cyprus we have the dove 
 on the betyle or pedestal as the central object. 1 In 
 Egyptian archaeology we also come across the bird 
 on the pedestal, more particularly in the curious 
 xodiac of Penderuh, where a bird perched on a pillar. 
 and with the crown of Upper Egypt on its head, is, 
 as Mr. Norman Lockyer tells me, used to indicate 
 the commencement of the year ; also from the Soudan 
 we have a bird on a pedestal carved on some rude 
 stone fragments now in the Ashmolean Museum. It 
 is just possible that the birds at Zimbabwe had some 
 solstitial meaning, but as their exact position on the 
 temple walls is lost, it is impossible to speak on this 
 point with anything like certainty. Also in the diffi- 
 cult question of early Arabian cult, which was closely 
 bound up with that of Egypt, Assyria, and Phoenicia, 
 we find the vulture as the totem of a Southern Arabian 
 tribe at the time of the Hinivaritic supremacy, and it 
 was worshipped there as the god Nasr, and is inysreri- 
 ously alluded to in Himyaritie inscriptions a* -the 
 vulture of the East and the vulture of ilu- \\Vst.' 
 which also would seem to point to a solstitial use of 
 the emblem. 2 
 
 The religious symbolism of these birds is further 
 attested by our finding two tiny representations of 
 the larger emblems ; they, too, represented birds on 
 pillars, the longest of which is only three and a half 
 inches, and it is perched on the pillar more as the 
 
 1 Perrot and Chipiez's Phoenicia, p. 281. 
 
 a Kremer, Alcademie der Wissenschaft. Wien.
 
 'HIi; FINDS AT 
 
 bird 
 
 <;UJ-:.\T xi. \m.\u\vi-: i?nx.s 187 
 
 u represented in the zodiac of Denderah. 
 Evidently these things were used as amulets or 
 votive offerings in the temple. Lucian alludes to the 
 
 phalli \i<c<] ,T- .-iii'mleN ])V the Greeks with a human 
 
 MINIATURE KIKDS ON I'KUKSTALS 
 
 figure on the end, and he connects them with the 
 lower thirty cubits in height. 
 
 In th<- (Mitre of the temple on the hill stood an 
 all;tr, info the stones of which were inserted and also
 
 188 
 
 THE ARCH OOLOGY OF THE DISTRICT 
 
 scattered around a large number of soapstone objects 
 representing the phallus either realistically or conven- 
 tionally, but always with anatomical accuracy which 
 unmistakably conveys their meaning, 
 and proves in addition that circum- 
 cision was practised by this primitive 
 race ; ' its origin both amongst the 
 Egyptians and Ethio- 
 pians,' says Hero- 
 dotus, ii. 37, 104, 
 'may be traced to 
 the most remote a'n- 
 tiquity.' We have 
 seen in the previous 
 description of the 
 tower the parallel to 
 Lucian's description 
 of the phalli in the 
 temple at Hierapolis. 
 Here, in the upper 
 temple, we found no 
 less than thirty-eight 
 miniature represen- 
 tations of the larger emblem ; one is a highly or- 
 nate object, with apparently a representation of a 
 winged sun on its side, or perchance the winged 
 Egyptian vulture, suggesting a distinct Semitic 
 influence. There is a small marble column in the 
 Louvre, twenty-six inches in height, of Phoenician 
 origin, with a winged symbol on the shaft like the one* 
 
 PH(ENICIAN COLUMN 
 IN THE LOUVRE 
 
 ORNATE PHALLUS. 
 ZIMBABWE
 
 THE FINDS AT THE GREAT ZIMBABWE RU1JNS 189 
 
 before us ; it is crowned by an ornament made of 
 four petalled flowers. This winged globe is met with 
 in many Phoenician objects, and MM. Perrot and 
 Chipiez, in their work on Phoenicia, thus speak of it 
 as ' a sort of trade-mark by which we can recognise 
 as Phoenician all such objects as bear it, whether they 
 come from Etruria or Sardinia, from Africa or Syria.' 
 And of the stele in the Louvre the same authors say, 
 ' We may say that it is signed.' A carefully executed 
 rosette with seven petals forms the summit of our 
 object found in the temple. Now the rosette is also 
 another distinctly Phoenician symbol used by them 
 to indicate the sun. We have the rosette on Phoe- 
 nician sepulchral steke in the British Museum in con- 
 junction with the half-moon to indicate the heavenly 
 luminaries, and here at Zimbabwe we have this 
 object surmounted by a rosette, rosettes carved on 
 the decorated pillars, and the eyes of the birds, as 
 before mentioned, are made in the form of rosettes. 
 The fact of finding these objects all in close juxtapo- 
 sition around the altar and in the vicinity of the 
 birds on pillars is sufficient proof of the nature of 
 the objects and their religious symbolism. Thus we 
 have in both cases the larger emblems and their 
 miniature representatives, the tower and the smaller 
 phalli, the large birds and the tiny amulets, proving 
 to us that the ancient inhabitants of the ruins wor- 
 shipped a combination of the two deities, which 
 together represented the creative powers of mankind. 
 A curious confirmation of this is found in the
 
 190 
 
 LONG DECORATED 
 SOAPSTONE BEAM 
 IN TWO PIECES 
 
 THE ARCHEOLOGY O* THE DISTRICT 
 
 pages of Herodotus, who 
 tells us J : ' The Arabians 
 of all the gods only wor- 
 shipped Dionysus, whom 
 they called Ourotalt, and 
 Urania ; ' that is to say, 
 they worshipped the 
 two deities which, in the 
 mind of the father of 
 history, represented in 
 themselves all that was 
 known of the mysteries 
 of creation, pointing to 
 the very earliest period 
 of Arabian cult, prior 
 to the more refined reli- 
 gious development of 
 the Sabeeo-Himyaritic 
 dynasty, when Sun-wor- 
 ship, veneration for the 
 great luminary which 
 regenerated all animal 
 and vegetable life, super- 
 seded the grosser forms 
 of nature-worship, to 
 be itself somewhat super- 
 seded or rather incor- 
 porated in a worship of 
 all the heavenly lumi- 
 
 1 Herod. Bk. III. 8.
 
 THE FINDS AT THE GREAT ZIMBABWE RUINS 191 
 
 naries, which, developed as a knowledge of astronomy 
 was acquired. 
 
 We have already discussed the round towers and 
 the numerous mono- 
 liths which decorated 
 the walls and other 
 parts of the Zimbabwe 
 ruins ; excavation 
 yielded further ex- 
 amples of the venera- 
 tion for stones amongst 
 the early inhabitants. 
 One of these was a 
 tall decorated soap- 
 stone pillar 11 feet 
 6 inches in height, 
 which stood on the 
 platform already al- 
 luded to, arid acted as 
 a centre to a group of 
 monoliths ; the base 
 of this pillar we found 
 in situ, the rest had 
 been broken off and 
 appropriated by a 
 Kaffir to decorate 
 a wall ; it was worked with bands of geometric 
 pattern^ around it, each different from the other and 
 divided into compartments by circular patterns, one 
 of which is the chevron pattern found on the circular 
 
 o2 
 
 DECOEATED SOAPSTONE BEAM
 
 192 THE ARCHEOLOGY OF THE DISTRICT 
 
 ruin below ; it only runs round a portion of the pillar ; 
 and may possibly have been used to orient it towards 
 the setting sun. Besides this tall pillar we found two 
 
 DECORATED SOAPSTONE BEAMS 
 
 fragments of other similar pillars decorated one with 
 geometric patterns and the other with an extra- 
 ordinary and entirely inexplicable decoration. On 
 these pillars the rosette is frequently depicted, and it
 
 THE FINDS AT THE GREAT ZIMBABWE RUINS 193 
 
 would seem that they all came from the same place, 
 namely, the platform decorated with monoliths. 
 Here also we found several stones of a curious nature 
 
 COLLECTION OF STRANGE STONES 
 
 and entirely foreign to the place. Two of them are 
 stones with even bands of an asbestiform substance, 
 a serpentine with veins of chrysolite, the grooves 
 being caused by the natural erosion of the fibrous
 
 194 THE ARCHEOLOGY OF THE DISTRICT 
 
 bands. Another stone is an irregular polygonal 
 pillar-like object of coarse-grained basalt, the smooth 
 faces of which are natural points, the whole being a 
 portion of a rough column or prism. Another, again, 
 is a fragment of schistose rock, apparently horn- 
 blendic ; also we found several round blocks of diorite 
 in this place. The collection here of so many strange 
 geological fragments cannot .be accidental, and points 
 to a veneration of curious-shaped stones amongst the 
 
 FRAGMENT OF BOWL WITH PROCESSION OF BULLS 
 
 earlier inhabitants of the ruins, which were collected 
 here on the platform, a spot which, I am convinced, 
 will compare with the ftacrvXia or betyles of the 
 Phoenicians, and of this stone cult we have ample 
 evidence from Arabia. El Masoudi alludes to the 
 ancient stone-worship of Arabia, and leads us to 
 believe that at one time this gross fetichism formed a 
 part of the natural religion of the Semitic races. 
 Marinus of Tyre says they honoured as a 
 god a great cut stone. Euthymius Zygabenus
 
 THE FINDS AT THE GREAT ZIMBABWE RUINS 195 
 
 further tells us that apparently 
 ' this stone was the head of 
 Aphrodite, which the Ishmaelites 
 formerly worshipped, and it is 
 called Bakka Ismak ; ' also, he 
 adds, ' they have certain stone 
 statues erected in the centre of 
 their houses, round which they 
 danced till they fell from giddi- 
 ness ; but when the Saracens were 
 converted to Christianity they 
 were obliged to anathematise this 
 stone, which formerly they wor- 
 shipped.' 1 Herr Kremer, in his 
 account of the ancient cult of 
 Arabia, makes frequent allusions 
 to the stone- worship. In the town 
 of Taif a great unformed stone 
 block was worshipped, identical 
 with the goddess which Herodotus 
 
 calls Urania ; and one 
 imagine that the Kaaba 
 
 must 
 stone 
 
 at Mecca resembles the black 
 schistose block which we found at 
 Zimbabwe; it is an exceedingly old- 
 world worship, dating back to the 
 most primitive ages of mankind. 
 
 The next series of finds to be 
 discussed are the numerous frag- 
 
 c 
 1 Akademie der Wissenschtft. "Wien. 1890,
 
 196 
 
 THE ARCHEOLOGY OF THE DISTRICT 
 
 ments of decorated and plain soapstone bowls 
 which we found, most of them deeply buried in the 
 immediate vicinity of the temple on the fortress ; 
 and these bring us to consider more closely the 
 artistic capacities of the race who originally in- 
 habited these ruins. The work displayed in exe- 
 cuting these bowls, the careful rounding of the edges, 
 the exact execution of the circle, the fine pointed 
 tool-marks, and the subjects they chose to depict, 
 point to the race having been far advanced in artistic 
 skill a skill arrived at, doubtless, by commercial in- 
 
 BOWL WITH ZEBRAS 
 
 tercourse with the more civilised races of mankind. 
 Seven of these bowls were of exactly the same size, 
 and were 19'2 inches in diameter, 1 which measure- 
 ments we ascertained by taking the radii of the 
 several fragments. The most elaborate of these 
 fragments is a bowl which had depicted around its 
 outer edge a hunting scene ; it is very well worked, 
 and bears in several points a remarkable similarity 
 to objects of art produced by the Phoenicians. 
 There is here, as we have in all Phoenician pat- 
 
 1 Equal to two Egyptian spans of 9-58 inches.
 
 THE FINDS AT THE GREAT ZIMBABWE RUIXS 197 
 
 terns, the straight procession of animals, to break 
 the continuity of which a little man is intro- 
 duced shooting a zebra with one hand and holding 
 in the other an animal by a leash. To fill up a 
 vacant space, a bird is introduced flying, all of which 
 points are characteristic of Phoenician work. Then 
 the Phoenician workmen always had a great powder of 
 adaptability, taking their lessons in art from their 
 immediate surroundings, which is noticeable all over 
 the world, whether in Greece, Egypt, Africa, or Italy. 
 Here we have 
 
 
 the same charac- 
 teristic, namely, 
 a procession of 
 native African ani- 
 mals treated in a 
 Phoenician style 
 three zebras, two 
 hippopotami, and 
 the sportsman in 
 the centre is ob- 
 viously a Hotten- 
 tot. The details 
 in this bowl are carefully brought out, even the 
 breath of the animals is depicted by three strokes 
 at the mouth. There is also a fragment of another 
 bowl with zebras on it similarly treated, though 
 somewhat higher and coarser. The fragments 
 of a large bowl, which had a procession of bulls 
 
 FRAGMENT OF SOAPSTONE BOWL WITH 
 PROCESSION
 
 198 THE ARCHEOLOGY OF THE DISTRICT 
 
 round it, is also Phoenician/in character. 1 The most 
 noticeable feature in the .treatment of these bulls' is 
 that the three pairs of horns we have preserved to us 
 are all different. 
 
 There are three fragments of three very large 
 bowls, which are all of a special interest, and if the 
 bowls could have been recovered intact they would 
 have formed very valuable evidence. Search, how- 
 ever, as we would, we never found more of these bowls, 
 
 w 
 
 FRAGMENT OF SOAPSTONE BOWL FRAGMENT WITH LETTERING 
 WITH EAR OF CORN ON IT 
 
 and therefore must be content with what we have. 
 The first of these represents on its side a small por- 
 tion of what must have been a religious procession ; 
 of this we have only a hand holding a pot or censer 
 containing an offering in it, and an arm of another 
 figure with a portion of the back of the head with 
 the hair drawn off it in folds. Representations of 
 a similar nature are to be found in the religious 
 
 o 
 
 functions of many Semitic races, and it is much to be 
 regretted that we have not more of it for our study. 
 
 1 Vide illustration, p. 194.
 
 THE FINDS AT THE GREAT ZIMBABWE RUINS 199 
 
 The second fragment has an elaborate design upon it, 
 taken from the vegetable world, probably an ear of 
 corn ; it was evidently around the lip of the bowl and 
 not at the side ; it is a very good piece of workman- 
 ship, and of a soapstone of brighter green than that 
 
 LETTERS FROM PROTO-ARABIAN ALPHABET 
 
 employed in the other articles. The third fragment is 
 perhaps the most tantalising of all ; it is a fragment of 
 the lip of another large bowl which must have been 
 more than two feet in diameter, and around which 
 apparently an inscription ran. Tha lettering is pro- 
 
 7 
 
 LETTERS ON A ROCK IN BECHUANALAND, COPIED BY 
 MR. A. A. ANDERSON 
 
 vokingly fragmentary, but still there can be no doubt 
 that it is an attempt at writing in some form : the 
 straight line down the middle, the sloping lines on 
 either side recall some system of tally, and the straight- 
 ness of the lettering compares curiously with the
 
 200 
 
 THE ARCHAEOLOGY OF THE DISTRICT 
 
 proto-Arabian type of lettering used in the earlier 
 Sabsean inscriptions, specimens of which I here give, 
 and also with some curious rock carvings found by 
 Mr. A. A. Anderson in Bechuanaland. It was com- 
 mon in Phoenician and earlv Greek vases to have an 
 
 SOAPSTONE BOWL \YITH CORD PATTERN 
 
 inscription or dedication round the lip ; vide, for 
 example, a lebes in the British Museum from a 
 temple at Naucratis with a dedication to Apollo on 
 the rim, and used, like the one before us, in temple 
 service. The circles on the birds also appear to have 
 
 HR9BHBM 
 
 FRAGMENT OF SOAPSTONE BOWL 
 
 a line across, like the fourth letter given as illustrating 
 the early Arabian alphabet. 
 
 Of the other fragments of bowls we found, one 
 has a well-executed cord pattern running round it, 
 another a herring-bone pattern- alternating with what
 
 THE FINDS AT THE GREAT ZIMBABWE RULNS 201 
 
 would appear to be a representation of the round 
 tower ; and besides these there are several fragments of 
 
 PLAIN SOAPSTONE BOWL WITH HOLE 
 
 what have been perfectly plain bowls, notably one 
 large one, the diameter of which is outside 2 feet and 
 
 PLAIN SOAPSTONE BOWL 
 
 inside 1 foot 8 inches. The edges of this bowl are 
 very carefully bevelled and the bottom rounded, and
 
 202 THE ARCHEOLOGY OF THE Dl&TUK.T 
 
 it is a very fine specimen of workmanship, the whole 
 of which we were able to recover saving a portion of 
 
 FRAGMENT OF BOWL WITH KNOBS 
 
 the bottom. Another plain bowl has a round hole 
 pierced through its side, and another fragment is 
 
 SOAPSTONE CYLINDER FROM ZIMBABWE 
 
 made of a reddish sort of soapstone with oxide of 
 iron in it. The tool marks on these bowls point to 
 very fine instruments having been used in carving
 
 THE FINDS AT THE GREAT ZIMBABWE KUINS 203 
 
 them. Altogether these bowls are amongst the most 
 conspicuous of our finds, and the fact they all came 
 from the proximity of the temple would undoubtedly 
 seem to prove that they were used in temple service, 
 broken by subsequent occupants of the ruins, and 
 the fragments thrown outside. 
 
 The next find from Zimbabwe which we will 
 
 OBJECT i'KOM TEJIPLE OF PAPHOS. CYPRUS 
 
 discuss is the circular soapstone object with a hole in 
 the centre, which at first is suggestive of a quern ; but 
 being of such friable material such could not have 
 been the case. It is decorated round the side and on 
 the top with rings of knobs, four on the side and four 
 on the top ; from the central hole a groove has been
 
 204 THE ARCHEOLOGY OF THE DISTRICT 
 
 cut to the side, and the whole is very well finished 
 off. This thing is 2 feet 2 inches in circumference. 
 We also found portions of a smaller bowl with the 
 same knob pattern thereon. The use of this extra- 
 ordinary soapstone find is very obscure. Mr. Hogarth 
 calls my attention to the fact that in the excavations 
 at Paphos, in Cyprus, they found a similar object, 
 similarly decorated, which they put down as Phoeni- 
 cian. It is now in the Fitzwilliam Museum at Cam- 
 bridge, and is a cylindrical object of coarse white 
 marble six inches in diameter and about four and three- 
 quarter inches high. It is studded with round pro- 
 jecting studs left in relief on the marble, resembling 
 in general disposition those on our soapstone find, 
 and there is no question about the similarity of the 
 two objects. They remind one of Herodian's descrip- 
 tion of the sacred cone in the great Phoenician temple 
 of the sun at Emesa, in Syria (Herodian, bk. v. 5), 
 which was adorned with certain ' knobs or protu- 
 berances,' a pattern supposed by him to represent 
 the sun, and common in phallic decorations. 
 
 In the vicinity of the temple we also came across 
 some minor objects very near the surface, which did 
 not do more than establish the world-wide commerce 
 carried on at the Great Zimbabwe at a much more 
 recent date, and still by the Arabians namely, a 
 few fragments of Celadon pottery from China, of 
 Persian ware, an undoubted specimen of Arabian 
 glass, and beads of doubtful provenance, though one 
 of them may be considered as Egyptian of the
 
 THE. FINDS AT THE GREAT ZIMBABWE RUINS 205 
 
 Ptolemaic period. Glass beads almost of precisely 
 the same character namely, black with white encir- 
 cling lines have come from ancient tombs at Thebes, 
 in Boeotia, and are to be found in almost every collec- 
 tion of Egyptian curiosities. 
 
 The pottery objects must have been brought here 
 
 GLASS BEADS, CELADON POTTERY, PERSIAN POTTERY, AND 
 ARABIAN GLASS 
 
 by Arabian traders during the middle ages, probably 
 when the Monomatapa chiefs ruled over this district 
 and carried on trade with the Arabians for gold, as 
 European traders do now with objects of bright 
 appearance and beads. Similar fragments have been 
 found by Sir John Kirk in the neighbourhood of 
 Quiloa, where in medieval times was a settlement of
 
 206 THE ARCH/EOLOGY OF THE DISTRICT 
 
 Arabs who came from the Persian Gulf, forming an 
 hereditary intercourse between the Arabs and the 
 east coast of Africa until the Portuguese found them 
 there and drove them away three centuries ago. It 
 is impossible that a collection of things such as these 
 could have been brought together by any but a 
 
 FRAGMENT OF BOWL OF GLAZED POTTERY 
 
 highly commercial race during the middle ages, and 
 the Arabians alone had this character at the time in 
 question. 
 
 Considering the large quantity of soapstone frag- 
 ments, bowls, and other things, the finds of pottery 
 of a good period at Zimbabwe were not many. 
 Noticeably one piece of pottery is exceedingly excel- 
 lent, worthy of a good period of classic Greek ware. 
 The pattern round it is evidently stamped on, being
 
 THE FINDS AT THE GREAT ZIMBABWE RUINS 207 
 
 done with such absolute accuracy. It is geometric, as 
 all the patterns on the pottery are. It is not hand- 
 made pottery, for on the back of it are "distinct signs of 
 a wheel. Then there are some black fragments with 
 an excellent glaze and bevel, also fragments of pottery 
 lids, and a pottery stopper, pointing to the fact that 
 the old inhabitants of Zimbabwe had reached an 
 
 GLAZED POTTERY 
 
 POTTERY LID 
 
 DECORATED FRAGMENT OF POTTERY 
 
 advanced state of proficiency in ceramic art. Frag- 
 ments of one pot with holes neatly bored round the 
 neck remind one of water-coolers still found in the 
 East. Besides the fragments of pots, we found an 
 enormous number of small circular objects of pottery, 
 which may have been used as spindle-whorls, though 
 most of them show no signs of -wear, and some of 
 
 P2
 
 208 
 
 them having rude decorations thereon. The only 
 fragment which shows an attempt at the use of pot- 
 
 TOP OF POTTERY BOWL 
 
 tery for other, than domestic purposes is a sow which 
 we found in a kitchen midden just outside the large 
 
 i-oTTKRY WHORLS 
 
 POTTERY SOW 
 
 circular building on the plain, with two phalli 
 near it. This animal compares well with the rude
 
 THE FIXDS AT THE GREAT ZIMBABWE RCIXS 209 
 
 attempts to depict animal life found in prehistoric 
 excavations on the Mediterranean. Whether it has 
 any religious significance or not is, of course, only 
 conjecture, but it is curious that ^Elian tells us that the 
 Egyptians ' sacrifice a sow to the moon once a year ; ' 
 and Herodotus says ' the only deities to whom the 
 Egyptians are permitted to offer a pig are the moon 
 
 POTTERY \VHOKLS 
 
 and Bacchus.' All that the pottery proves to us is 
 that the ancient inhabitants of Zimbabwe had reached 
 a high state of excellence in the manufacture of it, 
 corresponding to a state of ceramic art known only 
 to the rest of the world in classical times. 
 
 Concerning the bronze and iron weapons and im- 
 plements which we found at Zimbabwe it is very 
 difficult to say anything definite. In the first place,
 
 210 
 
 THE ARCHEOLOGY OF THE DISTRICT 
 
 these ruins have been overrun for centuries by Kaffir 
 races with a knowledge of iron-smelting, who would 
 at once utilise fragments of iron which they found for 
 
 WEAPONS 
 
 their own purposes ; secondly, the shapes and sizes of 
 arrows and spear-heads correspond very closely to those 
 in use amongst the natives now. As against this it 
 must be said that there are many iron objects amongst
 
 THE FINDS AT THE GREAT ZIMBABWE RUINS 211 
 
 our finds which are quite unlike anything which ever 
 came out of a Kaffir workshop, and the patterns of 
 the assegai, or spear-head, and arrow are probably of 
 great antiquity, handed down from generation to 
 
 IRON BELL 
 
 generation to the present day. Amongst the most 
 curious of our iron finds at Zimbabwe certainly are the 
 double iron bells, of which we found three in the 
 neighbourhood of the temple on the fortress. Similar 
 bells are found now on the Congo. There are some
 
 212 
 
 THE ARCHEOLOGY OF THE DISTRICT 
 
 in the British Museum, and also in the Geographical 
 Society's Museum at Lisbon, which came from San 
 Salvador, on the Congo, and are called Chingongo, 
 
 HALF OF AN IKON BELL 
 
 BRONZE 
 SPEAR-HEAD 
 
 whereas amongst the present race inhabiting Mashona- 
 land the knowledge of this bell does not exist, nor 
 did it presumably exist in Dos Santos' days, who
 
 THE FINDS AT THE GREAT ZIMBABWE RUINS 2 
 
 enumerates all the Kaffir instruments which he saw ; 
 and he would assuredly have mentioned these bells had 
 they existed there in his days 300 years ago. We must, 
 therefore, conclude that either these bells are ancient, 
 and were used by the old inhabitants of these ruins, the 
 
 BATTLE-AXE AND AlJltOWS 
 
 traditional form of which has been continued amongst 
 the negroes of the Congo, or that some northern race 
 closely allied to the Congo races swept over this country 
 at some time or another, and have left this trace of 
 their occupation. The barbed bronze spear-head we 
 found under a mass of fallen rock close to the entrance
 
 214 
 
 THE ARCHAEOLOGY OF THE DISTRICT 
 
 to the fortress. This again finds a parallel in weapons 
 which come from much farther north in Nubia, though 
 its execution is finer than any of that class which has 
 come before my notice. The shape of this weapon 
 
 BATTLE-AXE 
 
 is exactly the same as that of the unbarbed spear- 
 head, which has a coating of gold on it, 1 and shows 
 the same peculiarity of make as the assegai-heads 
 still made by the natives namely, the fluting which 
 
 1 Vide illustration, p. 216.
 
 THE FINDS AT THE GREAT ZIMBABWE RUINS 215 
 
 runs down the centre being reversed on either side. 
 Then there are the tools chisels, an adze, pincers, 
 spades, &c., which are quite unknown to the Kaffir 
 races which now inhabit this country. Still it is 
 possible that all these things may have been made 
 during the time of the Monomatapa, who evidently 
 had reached a higher pitch of civilisation than that 
 existing to-day ; so that I am inclined to set aside the 
 iron implements as pertaining to a more recent occu- 
 pation, though at the same time there is no actual 
 reason for not assigning to them a remoter antiquity. 
 
 The finds in the fortress of Zimbabwe which touch 
 upon, perhaps, the most interesting topic of all are 
 those which refer to the manufacture of gold. Close 
 underneath the temple in the fortress stood a gold- 
 smelting furnace made of very hard cement of pow- 
 dered granite, with a chimney of the same material, 
 and with neatly bevelled edges. Hard by, in a chasm 
 between two boulders, lay all the rejected casings 
 from which the gold-bearing quartz had been extracted 
 by exposure to heat prior to the crushing, proving 
 beyond a doubt that these mines, though not immedi- 
 ately on a gold reef, formed the capital of a gold- 
 producing people who had chosen this hill fortress 
 with its granite boulders for their capital owing to 
 its peculiar strategic advantages. Gold reefs and old 
 workings have been lately discovered about twelve 
 miles from Zimbabwe, and it was from these that 
 their auriferous quartz was doubtless obtained. 
 
 Near the above-mentioned furnace we found many
 
 216 
 
 THE ARCHAEOLOGY OF THE DISTRICT 
 
 little crucibles, of a composition of clay, which had 
 been used for smelting the gold, and in nearly all of 
 them still exist small specks of gold adher- 
 ing to the glaze formed by the heat of the 
 process. Also we found several water-worn 
 stones, which had been used as burnishers, 
 which was evidenced by the quantity of 
 gold still adhering to them ; and in the 
 adjoining cave we dug up an ingot mould 
 of soapstone of a curious shape, corre- 
 sponding almost exactly to an ingot of tin 
 found in Falmouth Harbour, which is now 
 in the Truro Museum, and a cast of which 
 may be seen at the School of Mines in 
 Jermyn Street. This ingot of tin was un- 
 doubtedly made by Phoenician workmen, 
 for it bears a punch mark thereon like 
 those usually employed by workmen of 
 that period ; and Sir Henry James, in his 
 pamphlet describing it, draws attention to 
 the statement of Diodorus, that in an- 
 cient Britain ingots of tin were made 
 z' pv0fjiov<s, or of the shape of astragali or 
 knuckle-bones ; and the form of both the ingots is 
 such that the astragalus may easily be used as a 
 rough simile to describe them. Probably this shape 
 of ingot was common in the ancient world, for Sir 
 John Evans, K.C.B., has called my attention to an 
 ingot mould somewhat similar in form, found in 
 Dalmatia, and the Kaffirs far north of the Zambesi 
 
 GILT 
 SPEAR-HEAD
 
 THE FINDS AT THE GREAT ZIMBABWE RUINS 217 
 
 TOOLS
 
 218 
 
 THE ARCHAEOLOGY OF THE DISTRICT 
 
 now make ingots of iron of a shape which might 
 easily be supposed to have been derived from the 
 astragalus ; but at the same time the 
 finding of two ingots in two remote 
 places where Phoenician influence has 
 been proved to be so strong is very 
 good presumptive evidence to esta- 
 blish the fact that the gold workers 
 of ancient Zimbabwe worked for the 
 Phoenician market. A small soapstone 
 object with a hole in the centre would 
 appear to have been a sort of tool 
 used for beating gold. 
 
 An interesting parallel to the 
 ancient gold workings in Mashona- 
 land is to be found by studying the 
 account of the ancient gold workings at the Egyptian 
 old mines in Wadi Allaga, also given us by Diodorus. 
 
 ANCIENT SPADE 
 
 SOAPSTONE INGOT MOULD. ZIMBABWE 
 
 There, too, the gold was extracted from the quartz by a 
 process of crushing and washing, as we can see from
 
 THE FINDS AT THE GREAT ZIMBABWE BUINS 219 
 
 the process depicted in the paintings on the Egyptian 
 tombs ; and in any gold-producing quarter of Masho- 
 
 INGOT OF TIN FOUND IN FALMOUTH HARBOUR 
 
 naland, near old shafts and by the side of streams, 
 innumerable crushing-stones are still to be seen, used 
 anciently for a like purpose, when slave 
 labour was employed. Diodorus tells 
 us of the gangs of slaves employed, of 
 the long dark shaft into which they 
 descended, of which a countless number 
 are scattered still over Mashonaland ; 
 and after describing the process of 
 
 washing and crushing he concludes : 
 
 SOAPSTONE 
 OBJECT 
 
 ' They then put the gold into earthen 
 crucibles well closed with clay, and leave it in a 
 furnace for five successive days and nights, after 
 which it is suffered to cool. The crucibles are then 
 opened, and nothing is found in them but the pure 
 gold a little diminished in quantity.' Hence it is 
 obvious that the process employed by the ancient 
 Egyptians for crushing, smelting, and forming into 
 ingots was exactly the same as that employed by the 
 ancient inhabitants of Zimbabwe ; which fact, when
 
 220 
 
 THE ARCH/EOLOGY OF THE DISTRICT 
 
 taken in conjunction with the vast amount of evi- 
 dence of ancient cult, ancient construction, and 
 ancient art, is, I think, conclusive that the gold- 
 fields of Mashonaland formed one at least of the 
 sources from which came the gold of Arabia, and 
 that the forts and towns which ran up the whole 
 length of this gold-producing country wore made to 
 protect their men engaged in this industry. The 
 
 BEVELLED EDGE OF GOLD-SMELTING FURNACE 
 
 cumulative evidence is greatly in favour of the gold 
 diggers being of Arabian origin, before the Sabaeo- 
 Himyaritic period in all probability, who did work 
 for and were brought closely into contact with both 
 Egypt and Phoenicia, penetrating to many countries 
 unknown to the rest of the world. The Bible is full 
 of allusions to the wealth of Arabia in gold and other 
 things. Ezekiel tells us that the Sabasans were mer- 
 chants in gold for the markets of Tyre. Aristeas
 
 THE FINDS AT THE GREAT ZIMBABWE RUINS 221 
 
 Mis us that a large quantity of spices, precious 
 stones, and gold was brought to Eorne Sia TOJ^ 'Apd- 
 PO>V, not from Arabia, but by the Arabians. The 
 testimony of all travellers in Arabia is to the effect 
 iliMl. little or no gold could have come from the 
 Arabian peninsula itself; it is, therefore, almost 
 certain that the country round Zimbabwe formed 
 one at least of the spots from which the ' Thesaurus 
 
 \ 
 
 CRUCIBLES FOR SMELTING GOLD FOUND AT ZIMBABWE 
 
 Arabum ' came. Egyptian monuments also point to 
 the wealth of the people of Punt, and the ingots of 
 gold which they sent as tribute to Queen Hatasou. 
 No one, of course, is prepared to say exactly where 
 the kingdom of Punt was ; the consensus of opinion 
 is that it was Yemen, in the south of Arabia. But 
 suppose it to be there, or suppose it to be on the 
 coast of Africa, opposite Arabia, or even suppose 
 it to be Zimbabwe itself, the question is the same : 
 
 Q
 
 222 TH ARCHEOLOGY OF THE DISTRICT 
 
 where 7 did they get the large supply of gold from, 
 which they poured into Egypt and the then known 
 world ? In Mashonalaiid we seem to have a direct 
 answer to this question. It would seem to be 
 evident that a prehistoric race built the ruins in 
 this country, a race like the mythical Pelasgi who 
 inhabited the shores of Greece and Asia Minor, a race 
 
 FRAGMENTS OF POTTERY BLOW-PIPES FROM FURNACE 
 
 like the mythical inhabitants of Great Britain and 
 France who built Stonehenge and Carnac, a race 
 which continued in possession down to the earliest 
 dawnings of history, which provided gold for the 
 merchants of Phoenicia and Arabia, and which 
 eventually became influenced by and perhaps absorbed 
 in the more powerful and wealthier organisations of 
 the Semite.
 
 CHAPTER VII 
 
 THE GEOGEAPHY AND ETHNOLOGY OF THE 
 MASHON ALAND RUINS 
 
 THE ancient geography of the east coast of Africa 
 is a subject fraught with difficulties on all sides. 
 To begin with, our authorities are not only meagre, 
 but they are men who had no practical knowledge 
 of the subject, and who knew next to nothing of 
 the vast extent of commercial operations which were 
 going on outside the limits of the Red Sea. The 
 written accounts come to us from either an Alexan- 
 drian or Roman source, whereas the practical know- 
 ledge possessed by the Arabs themselves of these 
 outer waters is lost to us for ever. It was probably 
 the monopolising policy of the Semitic nations which 
 induced them to conceal from other countries the 
 whereabouts of their commercial relations, which 
 on the one hand extended outside the pillars of 
 Hercules to the Canaries and Great Britain, and 
 on the other hand outside the Straits of Bab-el- 
 Mandeb to India, China, and the east coast of 
 Africa. Of these two directions the voyage to
 
 224 THE ARCHEOLOGY OF THE DISTRICT 
 
 Great Britain was undoubtedly the* most adventu- 
 rous, the navigation of the Indian Ocean with a 
 knowledge of the monsoons, which the Arabian who 
 lived on it must have had from time immemorial, 
 presenting far less difficulty. Hippalus has the credit 
 of introducing the monsoons to Western civilisation, 
 but surely a seafaring race like the Arabians, who 
 lived on the spot, must have known all about them 
 long before his day ; and just as they were reticent on 
 the subject of their voyages, so were they reticent on 
 the subject of the localities from which their mer- 
 chandise came. The knowledge given us by Marinus 
 of Tyre, by the anonymous author of the ' Periplus 
 of the Eed Sea,' by Ptolemy, by Pliny, and others, 
 was obviously not the knowledge possessed by the 
 traders of the world, for they do not even attempt to 
 elucidate the question of where the precious com- 
 modities came from which they enumerate. 
 
 Ptolemy's information is provokingly vague, and 
 he candidly admits in his first chapter that it was 
 obtained from a merchant of Arabia Felix ; he gives 
 us such names as Cape Aromata, supposed to be 
 Guardafui, outside the straits, the inland province 
 of Azania and Ehapta. The only thing we gather 
 from him is that they were trade emporia, and there- 
 fore places of considerable importance. 
 
 The 'Periplus' enters into further details, arid 
 mentions that the Arab settlement at Ehapta was 
 subject to the sovereign of Maphartes, a dependency 
 of Sabsea or Yemen. Dean Vincent imagines Ehapta
 
 GEOGRAPHY, ETC. OF MASHONALAND RUINS 225 
 
 to have been 1 south of the equator, that is to say, 
 near Quiloa, where again an Arab settlement continued 
 right down into the middle ages. The ' Periplus ' 
 further tells how Muza, Aden, and other points near 
 the mouth of the Eed Sea were emporia for the 
 goods brought from outside by the Arabians and 
 then transferred to Egyptian and Phoenician trading 
 vessels. 
 
 Further south the ' Periplus ' mentions Prasum as 
 the farthest point known to the author ; and here he 
 says ' an ocean curves towards sunset and, stretching 
 along the southern extremities of Ethiopia, Libya, 
 and Africa, amalgamates with the western sea.' All 
 this probably the author of the ' Periplus ' got from 
 the Arabs, just as the Portuguese got all their in- 
 formation from the same source thirteen centuries 
 later, and just as Herodotus got his vague story of the 
 circumnavigation of Africa six centuries before, when 
 he tells us how the Phoenicians in the service of 
 Pharaoh Necho, B.C. 600, ' as they sailed round Africa 
 had the sun on their right hand.' 
 
 From these and other statements in Marinus of 
 Tyre, Pliny, and others, it is obvious that the waters 
 of East Africa were known only to the Greeks and 
 Eomans vaguely through a Phoenician and Arabian 
 source. The early legendary stories of Greece tell of 
 a Voyage fraught with every danger in search of gold. 
 The celebrated Argonautic expedition has given com- 
 mentators an immense amount of trouble to recon- 
 cile its conflicting statements namely, that it went
 
 226 THE ARCHEOLOGY OF THE DISTRICT 
 
 to th extremities of the Euxine, entered the great 
 stream ocean that went round the world, and returned 
 by the Nile and Libya. It certainly appears to me 
 simple to suppose that it is merely the mutilation of 
 some early Phoenician story made to suit the existing 
 circumstances of the people to whom the story was 
 narrated. The Bible gives us the account of King 
 Solomon's expedition undertaken under Phoenician 
 auspices ; in fact, the civilised world was full of 
 accounts of such voyages, told us, unfortunately, 
 in the vaguest way, owing doubtless to the fact that 
 those who undertook them guarded carefully their 
 secret. 
 
 From an Egyptian source also certain knowledge 
 may be gained, though the Egyptians themselves 
 would appear never to have carried their commerce 
 outside the Straits of Bab-el-Mandeb, but to have met 
 at the port of Adule, at the south of the Eed Sea, 
 Arabian merchants who did so. Now in the reign of 
 Queen Hatasou, of the eighteenth dynasty, in the 
 seventeenth century B.C., the land of Punt was con- 
 quered by an Egyptian expedition, and on the 
 monuments of Deir-el-Bahari the conquered people of 
 Punt are depicted as sending tribute, which included 
 ebony, ostrich feathers, leopard skins, giraffes, lions, 
 living leopards, cynocephalous apes, elephants' tusks, 
 and ingots of gold, all products of South-eastern 
 Africa. When compared with the Biblical account 
 of King Solomon's expedition about seven centu- 
 ries later, the productions of both show a very
 
 GEOGRAPHY, ETC. OF MASHON ALAND RUINS 227 
 
 remarkable analogy. Gold was the most important 
 of the objects brought, gold in ingots such as the 
 mould would produce which we found at Zimbabwe, 
 and the gold of Arabia in antiquity was proverbial. 
 During the height of the prosperity of Eome gold was 
 sent thither by the Arabians, as we have seen from 
 Aristeas. Horace bears testimony to this in his line, 
 ' Thesauris Arabum et divitis Indiee.' Agatharcides, in 
 B.C. 120, speaks in glowing terms of the wealth of the 
 Sabasans ; allusions to it are common in the Bible, and 
 the connection between Phoenicia and Arabia is borne 
 testimony to by Ezekiel in his denunciation of Tyre : 
 * Arabia and all the princes of Kedar, they occupied 
 with thee in lambs, and rams, and goats : in these were 
 they thy merchants. The merchants of Sheba and 
 Eaamah, they were thy merchants : they occupied in 
 thy fairs with chief of all spices, and with all pre- 
 cious stones, and gold.' * Probably community of 
 origin, the inherent commercial instinct common 
 to the Semitic races, brought about this intimate 
 relationship between Phoenicia and Sabasa. Another 
 testimony to the wealth of gold in Arabia is 
 given us by the Assyrian inscriptions, on which 
 Tiglath Pileser II., B.C. 733, is mentioned as receiving 
 tribute from that country in gold, silver, and much 
 incense ; and Sargon in his annals also mentions the 
 tribute of Shamsi, Queen of Arabia, as paid in gold 
 and spices. There was little, if any, gold to be found 
 in Arabia itself ; on this point all travellers who have 
 
 1 Ezek. xxvii. 21, 22.
 
 228 THE ARCHEOLOGY OF THE DISTRICT 
 
 penetrated this country are agreed. Here, near the 
 east coast of Africa, far nearer to Arabia than India 
 and China and other places, which they were accus- 
 tomed to visit, not only is there evidence of the exten- 
 sive production of gold, but also evidence of a cult 
 known to Arabia and Phoenicia alike, temples built on 
 accurate mathematical principles, containing kindred 
 objects of art, methods of producing gold known to 
 have been employed in the ancient world, and evi- 
 dence of a vast population devoted to the mining of 
 gold. 
 
 As to the vexed question of the land of Ophir, I 
 do not feel that it is necessary to go into the arguments 
 for and against here. Mashonaland may have been 
 the land of Ophir or it may not ; it may have been the 
 land of Punt or it may not ; Ophir and Punt may be 
 identical, and both situated here, or they may be both 
 elsewhere. There is not enough evidence, as far as I 
 can see, to build up any theory on these points which 
 will satisfy the more critical investigation to which 
 subjects of this kind are submitted in the present day. 
 All that we can satisfactorily establish is that from 
 this country the ancient Arabians got a great deal of 
 gold ; but as gold was in common use in prehistoric 
 times, and lavishly used many centuries before our 
 era, there is no doubt that the supply must have been 
 enormous, and must have been obtained from more 
 places than one. ' Tyre heaped up silver as the dust, 
 and fine gold as the mire of the streets,' Zechariah tells 
 us (ix. 3), and the subject could be flooded with
 
 GEOGRAPHY, ETC. OF MASHON ALAND RUINS 229 
 
 evidence from sculptural and classical sources ; and 
 though the output from the old workings in Mashona- 
 land is seen to have been immense, yet it can hardly 
 have supplied the demand that antiquity made upon 
 it. The study of Arabian and Phoenician enterprise 
 outside the Red Sea is only now in its infancy we 
 have only as yet enough evidence to prove its extent, 
 and that the ruins in Mashonaland owe their origin 
 to it. 
 
 After the commencement of the Christian era 
 there is a great gap in our geographical knowledge of 
 these parts ; and as far as Western civilisation is con- 
 cerned, this corner of the world had to be discovered 
 anew. It was not so, however, with the Arabians, 
 who, though probably banished from the interior 
 many centuries before by the incursions of savage 
 tribes, still held to the coast, and exchanged with the 
 natives their cloth and their beads for gold which 
 they brought down. Of Arab extension in Africa we 
 have also other evidence. The ' Periplus ' tells us that 
 the Sabaean King Kharabit in A.D. 55 was in posses- 
 sion of the east coast of Africa to an indefinite extent. 
 The Greek inscription from Axume in Abyssinia, 
 copied by Mr. Salt in his travels there, further con- 
 firms this. It was a dedication to Mars of one golden 
 statue, one silver, and three of brass in honour of a 
 victory gained by ' Aizanes, king of the Axomites, of 
 the Homerites (given us by Eratosthenes as one of 
 the Arabian tribes), of the ^Ethiopians, and of the 
 Sabasans.' Three cities of the name of Sabge are
 
 230 THE ARCHAEOLOGY OF THE DISTRICT 
 
 mentioned as connected with this kingdom, two in 
 Arabia and one in ^Ethiopia ; and now we have the 
 river which doubtless in those days formed the great 
 outlet for the population between the Zambesi and the 
 Limpopo, still bearing the name of Sabse or Sabi, and 
 in the Ethiopian tongue the word Saba is still used for 
 * a man.' Herr Eduard Glaser, the Arabian traveller 
 and decipherer of Himyaritic inscriptions, states in 
 his work : ' So much is absolutely certain, that Himyar 
 (Arabia) then possessed almost the whole of East 
 Africa. Such a possession, however, was not won in 
 a night, but rather presupposes, in those old times, 
 without cannon and without powder, centuries of 
 exertion.' 
 
 Arabian writers of the ninth and tenth centuries 
 A.D. frequently allude to the gold of Sofala ; but to 
 the Western world this country was a blank until 
 Portuguese enterprise again opened it out. John IT. 
 of Portugal sent Pedro de Covilham and Alfonso de 
 Payva in 1487 to Cairo to gather information con- 
 cerning a route to India by the Cape. It is not at all 
 unlikely that Covilham heard from the Arabs reports 
 concerning the gold country behind Sofala ; but suffi- 
 cient evidence to this effect is not forthcoming. He 
 died in Abyssinia, and never returned to Portugal to 
 tell in person his experiences. At any rate, ten years 
 later the Cape was rounded by the Portuguese, and 
 Vasco da Gama in all the ports he called at on the 
 east coast of Africa found Arab traders established, 
 who told him about the gold. The next expedition,
 
 GEOGRAPHY, ETC. OF MASIIONALAN1) RUINS 231 
 
 under Alvarez de Cahal in 1505, found Sofala, and in 
 its harbour two Arab dhows laden with gold. 
 
 The Portuguese commander, Pedro de Nhaya, took 
 possession of the town of Sofala in the name of the 
 King of Portugal and garrisoned the old Arab fort 
 there, and with this act began the modern history of 
 this country, about which a veil of mystery had hung 
 from the very beginning of time. That the Arabs 
 were confined to the coast at this period is evident 
 from Puarte Barbosa's remarks, who wrote in 1514 : 
 ' The merchants bring to Sofala the gold which they 
 sell to the Moors (the name applied to the Arabs by 
 the Portuguese), without weighing it, for coloured 
 stuffs, and beads of Cambay.' 
 
 Before discussing the Portuguese accounts of this 
 country, let us linger a little longer amongst the 
 Arabs, and see what we can get from them about the 
 inhabitants of this district and the irruption of the 
 wild Zindj tribes over it, which probably caused the 
 destruction of the earlier civilisation. Zaneddin 
 Omar ibn 1' Wardi' gives us an account of these Zindj. 
 He wrote in the 336th year of the Hegira, and tells 
 us that ' their habitations extend from the extremity 
 of the gulf to the low land of gold, Sofala 't il Dhab,' 
 and remarks on a peculiarity 'of theirs, namely, that 
 ' they sharpen their teeth and polish them to a point.' 
 He goes on to say : ' Sofala 't il Dhab adjoins the 
 eastern borders of the Zindj . . . the most remark- 
 able produce of this country is its quantity of native 
 gold, that is found in pieces of two or three mesialla.
 
 232 XTHE ARCHAEOLOGY OF THE DISTRICT 
 
 in spite of which the natives generally adorn their 
 persons with ornaments of brass.' He also states 
 that iron is found in this country and that the natives 
 have skill in working it, and adds that ' ships come 
 from India to fetch it.' This shows us the origin of 
 the skill still possessed by the natives in smelting iron, 
 which has been handed down from generation to 
 generation. 
 
 El Masoudi, who has been called the Herodotus of 
 Arabia, gives us still further details about the race, 
 speaking of Sofala as a place to which the Arabs of 
 his time went habitually to obtain gold and precious 
 stones from the natives. He is more explicit about 
 the descent from the north of the Zindj tribes, which 
 took place not long before his day ; and unless there 
 was a previous wave of barbarians, concerning whom 
 we have no account, it may be supposed that it was 
 owing to their advent that the gold settlements 
 up country were finally abandoned, and the Arab 
 traders restricted to the coast. Describing the natives 
 of the land behind Sofala, he speaks of them as 
 negroes naked except for panther skins ; they filed 
 their teeth and were cannibals ; they fought with 
 long lances, and had ambuscades for game. They 
 hunted for elephants, but never used for their own 
 purposes the ivory or gold in which their country 
 abounded. From this picture it is easy to see that 
 in those days the inhabitants were just as they are 
 now, an uncultured wild race of savages. We get 
 another testimony to this in the voyage of two Arabs
 
 GEOGRAPHY, ETC. OF MASHON ALAND RUINS 233 
 
 who went to China in 851 A.D., and returned by the 
 east coast of Africa. M. Eenaudot has translated 
 their experiences, in which they describe the Zindj as 
 follows : ' Among them are preachers who harangue 
 them, clad in a leopard skin. One of these men, 
 with a staff in his hand, shall present himself before 
 them, and having gathered a multitude of people 
 about him, preach all the day to them. He speaks 
 of God and recites the actions of their countrymen 
 who are gone before them.' In this account we 
 easily recognise the witch-doctor and ancestor wor- 
 ship, the Mozimos and Muali of the present race. 
 Abou Zeyd's evidence is also to the same effect. He 
 thus speaks of the Zindj : ' Keligious discourses are 
 pronounced before this people, and one never finds 
 elsewhere such constant preachers. There are men 
 devoted to this life who cover themselves with panther 
 and monkey skins. They have a staff in their hands, 
 and go from place to place.' Quite an accurate de- 
 scription of the South African witch-doctor. Con- 
 sequently, from this mass of evidence we may affirm 
 with absolute certainty that for a thousand years 
 at least there has been no change in the condi- 
 tion of this country and its inhabitants. Further 
 testimony to the same effect is given us by Edrisi in 
 his geography, who alludes to the Zendj tribes as in- 
 habiting this country, and occupying the coast towns 
 Dendema and Sionna, ' which latter is situated on a 
 gulf where foreign vessels come to anchor.' He 
 speaks, too, of the iron trade which the Zendj carried
 
 234 THE ARCHEOLOGY OF THE DISTRICf 
 
 on with the Indians, and of the abundance of gold in 
 the mountains behind Sofala, adding, ' nevertheless, 
 the inhabitants prefer brass, making their ornaments 
 of the latter metal.' 
 
 The simple Arabian stories of Sindbad the sailor 
 and Aladdin are quite as credible as some of the 
 stories which the first Portuguese travellers who 
 visited the east coast of Africa tell us about the 
 great Emperor Monomatapa and the wealth of gold 
 in his dominions. When they first appeared on the 
 scenes the Monomatapa was a big Kaffir chief, like 
 Cetewayo or Lobengulu, who ruled over the gold 
 district in which the Zimbabwe ruins are situated ; 
 nevertheless they burden their accounts with stories 
 of the gilded halls in which he lived, of nuggets of 
 the precious metal as big as a man's head, and which 
 with their force raised the roots of trees. Needless 
 to say these are the fabrications of their own brains, 
 written to attract attention to the country they had 
 discovered. 
 
 That this big Kaffir chief, Monomatapa, lived at 
 his Zimbabwe or head kraal is, however, pretty clear, 
 not necessarily at the place where the ruins are, 
 because the whole of this country is scattered with 
 Zimbabwes. Each petty chief now calls his head kraal 
 by this name, and this fact, not thoroughly recognised, 
 has brought about endless confusion in topography. 
 The derivation for this name which to my mind 
 appears the most satisfactory is of Abantu origin, 
 and came from the north, where it is generally used
 
 GEOGRAPHY, ETC. OP MASHON ALAND RUINS 235 
 
 to denote the head kraal of any chief. Zi is the 
 Abantu root for a village, umzi being in Zulu the 
 term for a collection of kraals. Zimbab would signify 
 somewhat the same, or rather ' the great kraal,' 
 and we is the terminal denoting an exclamation, so 
 that Zimbabwe would mean, ' here is the great kraal.' 
 
 Again, another source of confusion arises from the 
 fact that Monomatapa or, as it ought to be written, 
 Muene, or lord of Matapa is a dynastic name, just 
 as every petty chief in Mashonaland to-day has his 
 dynastic name, \vhich he takes on succeeding to the 
 chiefdom. So did the lords of Matapa. In various 
 Portuguese treaties we have the names of different 
 Monomatapa's : one is called Manuza, another Lucere, 
 and so forth, right down to the days of Livingstone, 
 when the Monomatapa he mentions was a petty chief 
 near the Zambesi. 
 
 When the Portuguese arrived at Sofala they got 
 a lot of information from the Arab traders they found 
 there concerning the wonders of the country, the 
 great chief and the great ruins ; and as Zimbabwe 
 was the name of the chief's residence and the name 
 given by the inhabitants to the ruins, it is not to be 
 wondered at that some confusion arose. 
 
 Now these Arab traders were particularly and not 
 unnaturally jealous of the arrival of the Portuguese, 
 perhaps not unlike the Portuguese are now of the 
 British arrival. They made all the mischief they could 
 between the Portuguese and the natives, they repre- 
 sented the Portuguese Jesuit Father Silveira, who
 
 236 THE ARCHAEOLOGY OF THE DISTRICT 
 
 S 
 
 neatly managed to convert the Mouomatapa to Chris- 
 tianity, as a spy, and conduced to his martyrdom in 
 1561. In fact, one of the great obstacles to the 
 success of the Portuguese was Arab jealousy, which 
 was at the bottom of the failure of all their expedi- 
 tions up country. 
 
 Of all the Portuguese travellers who wrote about 
 this country, Father dos Santos is the most reliable. 
 Though he did not travel far up country, nevertheless 
 he told no lies ; and anyone who has been amongst 
 the inhabitants as they are now will recognise in his 
 narrative a faithful and accurate account of the 
 people, proving how little they have altered in the 
 lapse of between three and four centuries. A few 
 extracts will show this : ' They beat their palms, 
 which is their mode of courtesy.' * ' They smelt iron 
 and make mattocks, arrows, assegai-points, spears, 
 little axes, and they have more iron than is necessary, 
 and of copper they make bracelets, and both men 
 and women use them for their legs and arms.' He de- 
 scribes their indistinct idea of a Supreme Being, their 
 feasts in honour of their ancestors, their curious 
 pianos, ' with bars of iron enclosed in a pumpkin,' 
 their ' wine of millet, which the Portuguese could not 
 bear, but were obliged to drink and make festivity, 
 for fear of quarrelling.' ' They have an infinity of 
 fowls, like those of Portugal ; ' and also he describes 
 the days on which they are not to work, appointed 
 by the king, unknown to them, when they make 
 
 1 Vide Chap. III.
 
 GEOGRAPHY, ETC. OF MASHONALAND RUINS 237 
 
 feasts and call these days Mozimos, or days of the holy 
 already dead. 1 In fact, this narrative is so truthful 
 in all its details, that we may safely take from it his 
 account of the disintegration of the Monomatapa 
 r-.hiefdom, as it accounts for many things which other- 
 wise would be obscure. He tells us that a Mono- 
 matapa sent three sons to govern in three provinces, 
 Quiteve, Sedanda, and Chicanga; on their father's 
 death they refused to give up to the heir their respec- 
 tive territories, and the country became divided into 
 four. Since then it has been subdivided again and 
 again ; each petty chief fought with his neighbour, 
 union was impossible, and in their turn they have fallen 
 an easy prey to the powerful Zulu organisation under 
 Umzilikatze and his successor Lobengulu. This I 
 take to be, in a few words, the history of the country 
 and its people during modern times, and as much 
 probably as will ever be known of them. 
 
 Dos Santos calls these people Mocarangas, and in 
 this too, I think, he is right, for the reasons I have 
 previously given. 2 They are now, as we have seen, 
 a miserable race of outcasts, fleeing to the mountain 
 fastnesses on the approach of a Zulu raid, hounded 
 and robbed until there is no more spirit in them. 
 Monteiro mentions a Monomotapa, or emperor of 
 Chidima, very decayed, but respectable, with a terri- 
 tory to the west of the Zambesi, near Zumbo. This 
 is probably the same that Livingstone alludes to. An 
 interesting fact that Monteiro also gives us is the 
 
 1 Vide Chap. XL 2 Chap. II. 
 
 R
 
 238 THE ARCHEOLOGY OF THE DISTRICT 
 
 number of Zimbabwes north of the Zambesi, as the 
 head kraals of chiefs, showing the northern origin of 
 the name. 
 
 Having considered the people in whose country 
 the Great Zimbabwe ruins are, let us now proceed 
 to cull what we can from a Portuguese source 
 concerning the ruins themselves. 
 
 De Barros 1 gives us the fullest account of the 
 ruins. Let us take it and see what it is worth : ' In 
 the midst of the plains in the kingdom of Batua, in 
 the country of Toroe, nearest the oldest gold mines, 
 stands a fortress, square, admirably built, inside and 
 out, of hard stone. The blocks of which the walls 
 consist are put together without mortar and are of 
 marvellous size. The walls are twenty-five spans 
 in thickness ; their height is not so considerable 
 compared with their breadth. Over the gate of the 
 building is an inscription, which neither the Moorish 
 traders (the Arabs of the coast) who were there, nor 
 others learned in inscriptions, could read, nor does 
 anyone know in what character it is written. On the 
 heights around the edifice stand others in like manner 
 built of masonry without mortar ; among them a 
 tower of more than twelve bracas (yards) in height. 
 All those buildings are called by the natives Zimbahe 
 that is, the royal residence or court, as are all royal 
 dwellings in Monomotapa. Their guardian, a man 
 of noble birth, has here the chief command, and is 
 called Symbacao ; under his care are some of the 
 
 1 De Barros, De Asia. Lisbon. 1552.
 
 GEOGRAPHY, ETC. OF MASHONALANU RUINS 239 
 
 wives of Monomotapa, who constantly reside here. 
 When and by whom these buildings were erected is 
 unknown to the natives, who have no written 
 characters. They merely say they are the work of 
 the Devil (supernatural), because they are beyond 
 their powers to execute. Besides these, there is to 
 be found no other mason work, ancient or modern, 
 in that region, seeing that all the dwellings of the 
 barbarians are of wood and rushes.' 
 
 De Barros further states that when the Portuguese 
 Governor of Sofala, Captain Vicento Pegado, pointed 
 to the masonry of the fort there, with a view to com- 
 parison with the buildings up country, the Moors 
 (Arabs) who had been at the ruins observed that the 
 latter structure was of such absolute perfection that 
 nothing could be compared to it ; and they gave their 
 opinion that the buildings were very ancient, and 
 erected for the protection of the neighbouring gold 
 mines. From this, De Barros inferred that the ruins 
 must be the Agizymba of Ptolemy, 1 and founded by 
 some ancient ruler of the gold country, who was 
 unable to hold his ground, as in the case of the city 
 of Axume, in Abyssinia. 
 
 In criticising this account, it is at once apparent 
 that it was written by a person who had never seen 
 the ruins ; the fortress is round, not square ; the blocks 
 of stone are all small and not of 'marvellous size ; ' the 
 
 1 According to Ptolemy, the Romans penetrated from the north 
 through the heart of Africa to a nation called Agizymba, south of the 
 equator. 
 
 B2
 
 240 THE ARCHEOLOGY OF THE DISTRICT 
 
 tower is wrongly placed on the heights above instead 
 of in the ruin on the plain. But at the same time 
 De Barros is candid, and as good as tells us that his 
 account was gathered from ' the Moorish traders who 
 were there.' That is to say, all the wonders of the 
 upper country we get second hand from an Arabian 
 source. Legends of inscriptions on stone are common 
 to all mysterious ruins in every country. Possibly 
 the decorated soapstone pillar gave rise to it, as it 
 did to the subsequent account of the ' Zimbabwe 
 cryptogram,' which ran through the papers shortly 
 after the visit of the first pioneers of the Chartered 
 Company. At all events, now there is no sign of 
 anything over any gateway or any trace of such a 
 stone having been removed. 
 
 Alvarez gives us an account even vaguer than 
 De Barros. The following is Pory's translation, 
 published in London in 1600: 'For here in Toroa 
 and in divers places of Monomatapa are till this day 
 remaining manie huge and ancient buildings of timber, 
 lime and stone being singular workmanship, the like 
 whereof are not to be found in all the provinces 
 thereabout. Heere is also a mightie wall of five- 
 and-twenty spannes thick, which the people ascribe 
 to the workmanship of the divell, being accounted 
 from Sofala 510 miles the nearest way.' 
 
 Pigafetta copies this account in pretty much the 
 same strain, as also does Dapper, whose account 
 of this country is a tissue of exaggerations. He 
 says: 'In this country, far to the inland on a plain
 
 GEOGRAPHY, ETC. OF MASHONALAND RUINS 241 
 
 m the middle of many iron mills, stands a famous 
 structure called Simbace, built square like a castle 
 with hewn stone, but the height is not answerable. 
 Above the gate appears an inscription which cannot 
 be read or understood, nor could any that have seen 
 it know what people used such letters. . . . The 
 inhabitants report it the work of the devil, themselves 
 only building in wood, and aver that for strength it 
 exceeds the fort of the Portuguese at the seashore, 
 about 150 miles from hence.' 
 
 We could quote several other allusions to the 
 ruins from Portuguese, Dutch, and English sources, 
 copied one from the other, and all bearing the stamp 
 of having come from the same fountain-head, namely, 
 the Arabians, who told the Portuguese about them 
 w r hen they first arrived at Sofala. Our examination 
 of the ruins confirms this in every respect. In our 
 excavations we found Celadon pottery, Persian pot- 
 tery, and Arabian glass, similar to the things found 
 at Quiloa, where the Arabs also had a settlement. 
 These objects represent the trading goods brought 
 by the Arabians and exchanged with the inhabitants 
 who lived in and around these ruins in the middle 
 ages ; but at the same time we found no trace what- 
 soever of the Portuguese, which would have been the 
 case, as in other places occupied by them in Arabia 
 and the Persian Gulf, had they ever been' there. 
 From these facts I think it is certain that we may 
 remove from the Portuguese the honour claimed by 
 them of beintf the modern discoverers of the ruins,
 
 242 THE ARCHEOLOGY OF THE DISTRICT 
 
 an honour only claimed in the face of recent events, 
 for De Barros is candid enough in telling us that his 
 information came ' from the Arabs who were there.' 
 Clearly to settle this question it is only necessary to 
 quote a letter which I saw in the library at Lisbon, 
 dated April 17, 1721, from the Governor of Goa, 
 Antonio Eodrigue da Costa, to the king. East Africa 
 was included then in the province of India, and the 
 governor wrote as follows : 
 
 '(1) There is a report that in the interior of 
 these countries many affirm there is in the court 
 of the Monomatapa a tower or edifice of worked 
 masonry which appears evidently not to be the work 
 of black natives of the country, but of some powerful 
 and political nations such as the Greeks, Eomans, 
 Persians, Egyptians, or Hebrews ; and they say that 
 this tower or edifice is called by the natives Simbab6e, 
 and that in it is an inscription of unknown letters, and 
 because there is much foundation for the belief that 
 this land is Ophir, and that Solomon sent his fleets in 
 company with the Phoenicians ; and this opinion could 
 be indubitably established if this inscription could be 
 cleared up, and there is no one there who can read 
 it. If it were in Greek, Persian, or Hebrew, it would 
 be necessary to command that an impression be made 
 in wax or some other material which retains letters 
 or figures, commanding that the original inscription 
 be well cleaned. 
 
 ' (2) At the same time it would be suitable to 
 examine whether in that land is a range of mountains
 
 GEOGRAPHY, ETC. OF MASHONALAND RUINS 243 
 
 called Ofura, what distance it is from the coast or 
 seaport, and whether it contains mines of gold or 
 silver. 
 
 ' (3) In the same way it would be as well to 
 inquire into the most notable names of those parts, 
 mountains, chiefdoms, and rivers. 
 
 * (4) To learn if the lands of Sofala are high or 
 low, or marshy, or if they have any mountain 
 ranges.' 
 
 Hence it will be seen that, even as late as 1721, 
 it was only rumoured that there were ruins, and 
 that the Portuguese sphere of influence went very 
 little inland. Needless to say, the expedition was 
 never sent, and that the reports were of the vaguest 
 and most contradictory character. Bocarro and 
 Corvo both testify to the fact * that the Portuguese, 
 after the disastrous campaigns of Baretto, advanced 
 but little into the country, and were confined almost 
 exclusively to the littoral. Taking the map of this 
 district, and looking at the spelling of the names, it is 
 easy to see how far Portuguese influence extended. 
 They spell the common prefix Inya with an h instead 
 of a y : for example, they write it Inhambane. Also 
 they spell the name Gungunyama, Gungunhama ; 
 other nations spell such names with a y, for ex- 
 ample, Inyagowe. Hence the h for y clearly marks 
 the Portuguese sphere of influence. 
 
 These reports of an Eldorado northwards con- 
 tinued, and produced periodical excitements amongst 
 
 1 Chap. IX.
 
 244 THE ARCHAEOLOGY OF THE DISTRICT 
 
 the young colonists of South Africa. The Boers were 
 everlastingly getting up treks with a view to reach 
 it ; the vague mystery about King Solomon's mines 
 existing there, and the palace of the Queen of 
 Sheba, whetted their appetites when they heard these 
 rumours ; but still nothing was definitely done until 
 a German traveller of more than ordinary energy 
 penetrated as far as the Zimbabwe ruins in the year 
 1871. This man was Karl Mauch : he examined 
 them carefully and wrote an accurate account of 
 them, but, unfortunately, he ventured on a speculation 
 as to their origin which at once cast discredit on his 
 discoveries in the eyes of unbelieving archaeologists. 
 He maintained that the fortress on the hill was a 
 copy of King Solomon's temple on Mount Moriah, 
 that the lower ruins were a copy of the palace which 
 the Queen of Sheba inhabited during her stay of 
 several years in Jerusalem, and that the trees in the 
 middle of it were undoubtedly almug trees. 
 
 The result of this was that the subject of Zim- 
 babwe ruins was in abeyance for nearly twenty years 
 after Mauch's visit, and was rather accredited as a 
 traveller's tale until the British Chartered Company 
 took possession of the country and enabled research 
 to be satisfactorily made. Nevertheless to Karl 
 Mauch is distinctly due the honour of being the first 
 to investigate the ruins in modern times.
 
 PART in 
 
 EXPLORATION JOUENEYS IN MASHONALAND
 
 CHAPTER VIII 
 
 DOWN TO THE SABI RIVER AND MATINDELA RUINS 
 
 IT was the report of extensive ruins, 'larger,' said 
 a native, ' than those of Zimbabwe,' which induced 
 us to make an expedition involving considerable 
 hardships and unknown risks down in the direction 
 of the Sabi River. Our waggons, of course, could not 
 go, as our way would be by the narrow native paths. 
 Previous experience had warned us against depending 
 on the native huts, so for the transport of our tents, 
 bedding, and provisions we had to make considerable 
 preparations. 
 
 At Fort Victoria we borrowed seven donkeys 
 from the Chartered Company, and we engaged a few 
 natives of reputed respectability under the command 
 of a man called Mashah, quite the most brilliant 
 specimen of the Makalanga race we came across 
 during our sojourn in the country. He, his father and 
 his mother and his wife, a sister of our old friend 
 Umgabe, had been captured some years ago by the 
 Matabele and spent several years in servitude, during 
 which time he had learnt the Zulu tongue and the
 
 248 EXPLORATION JOURNEYS IN MASHONALAND 
 
 more energetic habits of this stronger race. Eventu- 
 ally, after the death of his father and mother, he and 
 his wife had escaped and returned to Umgabe's kraal, 
 and on the arrival of the Chartered Company's 
 pioneer force Mashah placed his services at their dis- 
 posal. He greatly distinguished himself by saving the 
 lives of a band of the pioneers when on a wild pro- 
 specting trip, for which service he received a present 
 of a Martini-Henry rifle, of which he was naturally 
 very proud. 
 
 Mashah's Makalanga brethren call him ' the 
 white man's slave,' from his devotion to the new race, 
 and he constantly affirmed that if ever the white man 
 left this country he would go with them, for he was 
 heartily sick of the petty jealousies and constant 
 squabbles of his countrymen. He was a strange ob- 
 ject to look upon with his tawny B.S.A. hat with 
 an ostrich feather in it, his shirt with a girdle round 
 his waist, and bare legs. He never once grumbled at 
 anything he had to do, he was never tired, and kept 
 our other Kaffirs in excellent order. As for the rest 
 of them, they were as naked as God made them, save 
 for the insignificant loin-cloth. A man called Metz- 
 wandira was told off as our body- servant, to wash the 
 cups and plates and spoons, which latter treasures he 
 counted carefully over to us after every meal. We got 
 greatly attached to this individual, his manners were 
 so gentle and courteous and his voice so soft and 
 silvery. One and all of them were delighted to become 
 possessed of our rejected milk tins, &c., with which
 
 METZWANDIRA
 
 DOWN TO SABI RIVER AND MATINDELA RUINS 251 
 
 they made bracelets, seven inches wide, by cutting off 
 the two ends of the tin and drilling holes along the 
 edge. One man tied the lid of a ' bully beef ' tin round 
 his neck, another fastened the round bottom of a milk 
 tin in a jaunty fashion on to his black hair. Every 
 tin we opened and finished was eagerly picked up by 
 our followers and carried in net bags all the way, 
 with a view to making some object of ornament out 
 of them. Even when given an old pair of boots, the 
 recipient only took out the brass hooks and eyes to 
 fasten as ornaments in his loin-cloth, and cast the 
 rest away. 
 
 On leaving Fort Victoria we followed the Char- 
 tered Company's road for forty miles northwards 
 with our waggons to Makori post station. One day 
 we were encamped near the two large villages of 
 Umfanipatza and Sibibabira built on two rocks, but 
 now, with the confidence inspired by the presence of 
 the Chartered Company, the inhabitants are beginning 
 to build huts on the flat space around. We paid a visit 
 to them both, and admired the tall euphorbia which 
 grew in them and the rich entanglement of begonia 
 and other creepers then in flower. In one hut we 
 found a man weaving a bark blanket very neatly 
 with no loom, only platting it with his fingers. It- 
 was done with a kind of pink twine made of some 
 bark. 
 
 At Makori post station, under the shade of wide- 
 spreading trees, and in close proximity to some 
 fantastic granite rocks, which rose like gigantic
 
 252 EXPLORATION JOURNEYS IN MASHONALAND 
 
 menhirs out of the plain and were covered with an 
 almost scarlet lichen, we passed several busy days, 
 preparing cruppers, girths, and breast-bands for our 
 seven pack-donkeys ; bags for our coffee, sugar, and 
 tea ; cobbling our boots-and overhauling our clothes, 
 and nursing four fever patients, \for there had been 
 two days of chilly drizzling rain, th,e inevitable result 
 of which was fever for some of our party. The post 
 station lay about one mile from our camping-ground ; 
 the two huts where the B.S.A. men lived were situ- 
 ated on a rocky kopje full of caves, in one of which 
 their horse was stabled, and from the top of the rock 
 an extensive view was gained over the high plateau, 
 well wooded just here and studded with rocks of 
 fantastic shape. Here and there thick volumes of 
 smoke rose from the grass fires common all over the 
 country at this season of the year, which looked for 
 all the world like distant manufacturing towns, and 
 suggested the comparison of a view from a spur of 
 the Derbyshire hills over the plain of Cheshire, with 
 Stockport, Manchester, and other centres of industry 
 belching forth their dense volumes of smoke. 
 
 On August 14 we started on our journey. It was 
 a lovely morning, and our progress was very slow, for 
 our cavalcade was so heterogeneous my wife and 
 I on horseback, Messrs. Swan and King with a horse 
 between them, three white men to look after the 
 donkeys, and Mashah and his Makalangas to carry 
 what the donkeys could not. We straggled terribly 
 at first, for the donkeys were obstinate and their pack-
 
 DOWN TO SABI RIVER AND MAT1 \DKLA BUINS 25o 
 
 saddles unsteady, the natives were fresh and anxious 
 to get along, so we had to call for frequent halts to 
 readjust ourselves, which gave 
 us ample opportunity for look- 
 ing around. The country here 
 is sown broadcast with strange 
 granite rocks ; one group had 
 formed themselves into an 
 extraordinary doorway, two 
 columns on either side about 
 sixty feet high, with a gigantic 
 boulder resting on the top of 
 them for the lintel. Like the 
 structures of a giant race, these 
 strange rocks rise out of the 
 thick vegetation in all directions. 
 Presently, as we were experienc- 
 ing some little difficulty in get- 
 ting our raw cavalcade across a 
 stream, a Makalanga joined us 
 who had been born without 
 hands. To his left stump had 
 been attached, by means of a 
 leather thong, the claw of a 
 bird ; with the assistance of 
 
 IRON RA.ZOR 
 4 INCHES LONG 
 
 this he ate some food we gave 
 
 CHIEF'S IRON 
 SCEPTRE 
 
 3J FKET LOXft 
 
 him with marvellous dexterity, 
 
 and fired his gun. He was a bright cheery indi- 
 vidual, evidently greatly respected by his more gifted 
 comrades.
 
 254 EXPLORATION JOURNEYS IN MA8HONALAND 
 
 We only accomplished seven miles this first day, 
 owing to the difficulties of progression, and in the 
 afternoon found ourselves encamped by a wretched 
 village called Chekatu. Here they had no cattle 
 and no milk to sell us owing to Matabele raids. The 
 chief, Matzaire by name, came to visit us with his iron 
 
 \ 
 
 ROCK NEAR MAKORI POST STATION 
 
 sceptre in his hand, which made us think of the rods 
 of iron with which certain Israelitish kings are stated 
 to have ruled. We climbed amongst the huts before 
 sundown and came across an old hag busily engaged 
 in shaving the heads of her younger sisters, cutting 
 their woolly locks into all sorts of odd shapes as 
 fancv or fashion suggested. She refused our most
 
 TO SABL RIVEIl AND MATIXDELA RUINS 255 
 
 tempting offers to part with her razor, and it was not 
 till some time afterwards that we were able to obtain 
 a specimen of this Makalanga ironcraft. 
 
 Next day we crossed 
 two rivers, tributaries of 
 the Tokwe, and after a 
 prosperous ride of ten 
 miles reached Sindito's 
 kraal, called Sekatu, the 
 inhabitants of which took 
 us for a Matabele impi, 
 and would not come down 
 till Mashah had screamed 
 to them that we were no 
 rogues, but honest men. 
 We gave the chief a cup 
 of tea, which he detested, 
 and as soon as politeness 
 permitted he said he had 
 had enough. He returned 
 the compliment by giving 
 us a calabash of good 
 beer, which we drank 
 with pleasure. Sekatu was 
 rather a nice village, on 
 a hill covered with thick 
 
 jungle, amongst which grew in profusion cucumbers, 
 about six inches long, of a rich orange colour, with 
 thorns outside and with a delicious bright green pulp 
 inside. They are the Cucumis metuliferus, specimens 
 
 s2 
 
 KNITTED BAG
 
 256 EXPLORATION JOriJNKVS IX MASIK >N ALAND 
 
 of which may be seen in the museum at Kew 
 Gardens. We had seen these before, and looked upon 
 them as poisonous, until our natives partook of them 
 and gave us confidence. Ever afterwards, as long 
 as they were in season, we indulged freely in this de- 
 
 LARDER TREE 
 
 licious fruit, and voted it the best we had come across 
 in Mashonaland. 
 
 The next day we halted for half an hour at a 
 village called Imiridzi, where we acquired a bag of 
 bark fibre, made by knitting the twine with two sticks 
 for knitting-needles. These articles seemed very 
 popular in this village, and nearly everyone was en-
 
 DOWN TO SABI RIVER A.ND MATINDELA RUINS 257 
 
 gaged in their production. Midday found us at a 
 very large kraal, the chief place in the dominions of a 
 powerful Makalanga chief called Gutu. Gona is the 
 
 REED SNUFF-BOXES AND GKEASE-HOLDER 
 
 name of the kraal, and it is completely buried between 
 two high granite kopjes. At the entrance to it some 
 tall trees are completely hung with provisions packed
 
 258 EXPLORATION JOURNEYS IN MASHONALAND 
 
 away in their long sausage-like bundles bags of 
 locusts, caterpillars, sweet potatoes, and other deli- 
 cacies. These trees we henceforth called ' larder trees,' 
 and found them at nearly every village. The inhabi- 
 tants of Gona were unusually rich in savage orna- 
 ments, and we annexed many snuff-boxes, knives, 
 and other oddments. The chief was unfortunately 
 away, but his/ representative brought us fine pots 
 of beer and milk, and we made a hearty meal despite 
 the dense and rather unsavoury mass of natives which 
 surrounded us during its consumption. They have 
 a plentiful growth of tobacco plants near Gutu's 
 kraal, and large fields of rice, in which the women 
 were just then busily engaged in making the broad 
 furrows ; they have very prettily carved doors to their 
 huts, and many of the men wear sandals on their feet. 
 Altogether Gona struck us as one of the most pro- 
 sperous kraals we had seen in the country. 
 
 As we journeyed eastwards the appearance of the 
 people was certainly wilder. We here saw their heads 
 decorated with curious erections of woven grass, 
 fastened into their hair and reaching an elevation of 
 a foot, like miniature Eiffel towers on their heads ; 1 
 and at a village called Muchienda we acquired two 
 quaint-shaped straw hats with ostrich feathers stick- 
 ing in the top, quite different to anything we had 
 seen elsewhere. As we approached this village a 
 long string of natives passed us on their way to hunt ; 
 on their heads they carried bark cases full of nets, 
 
 1 Vide illustration, p. 202.
 
 DOWN TO SABI RIVER AND MATINDELA RUINS 259 
 
 which they stretch across the valleys and drive the 
 ifamc into them. Muchienda was a lovely village by 
 u rushing stream full of rocks, which formed a little 
 waterfall ; the stream was shaded by magnificent 
 timber, and a background of lovely mountains made 
 us think Muchienda an ideal spot, at which we would 
 willingly have tarried longer. 
 
 Every day, as we approached the Sabi Valley, 
 the scenery became 
 grander ; the drearv 
 
 O ^ 
 
 high plateau gave 
 
 place to deep valleys 
 
 and high rugged moun- 
 
 tains ; the vegetation 
 
 was much more luxu- 
 
 riant and the atmo- 
 
 sphere many degrees 
 
 hotter, so hot that 
 
 during our midday 
 
 halts we did not care 
 
 to wander very far 
 
 from our camp, especially as we had a good deal 
 
 of manual labour to perform apart from the actual 
 
 travelling, in tent pitching, bed making, and cook- 
 
 in for our white men were generally so tired 
 
 DECORATED HUT DOOK 
 
 , 
 
 with driving and packing the donkeys that we could 
 not ask them to do anthing after the march was 
 
 over. 
 
 We soon got accustomed to sleeping on the 
 oround. When it was unusually rugged, for the
 
 260 EXPLORATION JOURNEYS JX MASHOXALAM) 
 
 grass grows here in tufts like the hair on the niggers' 
 heads, we got grass cut on which to lay our rugs; 
 occasionally we found it necessary to encamp on 
 
 STRAW HAT 
 
 spots over which a grass fire had passed, and then 
 we got hopelessly black, and lived like sweeps until 
 we reached a stream, where we could wash ourselves 
 and our clothes.
 
 DOWN TO SABI RIVER AND MATINDELA RUINS 261 
 
 Lutilo, with the village of Luti perched upon one 
 of its lower precipices, is quite a grand mountain, 
 almost Alpine in character, with exquisite views over 
 the distant Sabi and Manica Mountains. Here we 
 tarried for almost a whole day to visit an insignificant 
 set of ruins a few miles distant, called Metemo, but 
 which formed a link in the great chain of forts 
 stretching northwards. It had been built in three 
 circles of very rough stone, somewhat ingeniously 
 put together on the top of a rounded granite hill, 
 but hopelessly ruined. So we only tarried there 
 a while to make a plan, and to rest, and enjoy the 
 lovely view. 
 
 The country around here is very thickly wooded, 
 and on our return to our camp a herd of deer passed 
 close to us, a species known to the Dutch as Swart- 
 vit-pens, or ' swarthy white paunches,' but we failed 
 to get one, a matter of considerable regret from a 
 commissariat point of view, for meat is scarce in 
 the villages about here, and our tinned supplies were 
 getting low. 
 
 We struck our camp at Lutilo rather late in the 
 afternoon, and only got as far as a river called the 
 'ISFyatzetse, the crossing of which involved the un- 
 loading of our animals. On the way we passed 
 through two villages, where the inhabitants were 
 busily engaged in building huts, for it was evidently 
 a new encampment, and in making beer, which was 
 too new to drink ; the land around was being freshly 
 turned up for their fields, after the approved Maka-
 
 262 EXPLORATION JOURNEYS IN MASIIOXA LAND 
 
 langa fashion. First they clear a space of jungle, 
 leaving the larger trees, and pile up the brushwood 
 round the roots, then they set fire to the heaps, and 
 when it is consumed the tree is killed, and more 
 easy to cut down. 
 
 The next day brought us at a very early hour to the 
 site of the Matindela ruins, which was to be our haltirig- 
 
 DECORATED HEADS 
 
 place for a few days. The ruins certainly are fine, 
 but far inferior to those of Zimbabwe ; they are 
 perched on the top of a bare granite rock about loO 
 feet high, a most admirable strategical position. 1 In 
 the centre of them we pitched our tents for our 
 welcome halt of three days, and made ourselves as 
 comfortable as rain would permit, for it fell in tor- 
 rents here even though it was the dry season. The 
 
 1 For description of ruins, vide Chap. IV.
 
 DOWN TO SABI RIVER AND MATINDELA RUINS 263 
 
 term ' Matindela ' means ' guinea-fowl,' quantities 
 of which birds are found around here, as indeed they 
 are in most parts of this country. 
 
 We were now only twenty miles from the Sabi 
 Iviver, and the country around was almost deserted, 
 ruined villages crowned most of the heights, and the 
 deserted fields and devastation in every direction were 
 lamentable to behold. There were evidences, too, of 
 a fairly recent raid, in which the poor Makalangas 
 had .seen driven out of their homes and probably 
 carried into slavery. By common consent the two 
 great Zulu chiefs, Lobengula and Gungunyana, whose 
 embassy visited England last year, consider the Sabi 
 as their respective boundary for marauding expedi- 
 tions. On this occasion I believe Gungunyana and 
 his Shangans were to blame, who, finding that Loben- 
 gula was cut off by the Chartered Company from this 
 part of his district, had made bold to cross the Sabi 
 and raid on the western side, bringing destruction 
 into the Makalanga homes, which in former years 
 had here been thought very secure, being, as they 
 were, far from Lobengula and just out of Gungunyana's 
 recognised district. 
 
 The Makalangas have the greatest horror of the 
 Shangans, who dwell across the Sabi, and do Gungun- 
 yana's bidding. One day at Matindela we brought 
 home a specimen of a curious fruit which hangs from 
 the trees, eighteen inches to two feet long, like thick 
 German sausages ; it has beans inside, and we asked 
 Masliah if it was good to eat : ' No Makalangas eat
 
 264 EXPLORATION JOURNEYS IN MASIIONALAND 
 
 umvebej as he called it, ' only the Shangans and 
 baboons.' 
 
 Whilst at Matindela we sampled several kinds of 
 strange fruit : firstly the Kaffir orange, a kind of 
 strychnia, which is a hard fruit with yellow pulp 
 inside around seeds, and of which every traveller 
 shouldbeware of eating if not quite ripe an error into 
 which several of our party fell ; it is apt to produce 
 violent sickness under those conditions, and at best it 
 is painfully astringent, causing horrible facial contor- 
 tions when you eat it, as most of the fruits about here 
 do. Amongst other things, they brought to our 
 camp at Matindela large quantities of the delicious 
 cucumbers, monkey-nuts, sweet potatoes, and a sweet 
 fruit which you chew and spit out like sugar-cane, 
 w r hich they call matoko. From the gigantic trees 
 around us, the far-famed baobab trees, we gathered 
 the nuts with the refreshing cream of tartar pulp 
 inside. The baobab is the great feature of Matindela 
 Hill ; there are a dozen of them on it, huge giants, 
 which in their growth have knocked down large 
 portions of the walls. Though probably these trees 
 are not as old as report says, nevertheless their 
 presence here proves that these ruins have been 
 utterly abandoned for many centuries. It is another 
 problem to prove how their thick roots find sus- 
 tenance for so huge a vegetable growth, perched as 
 they are on an almost soil-less granite rock. Doubt- 
 less these roots follow the fissures in the granite and 
 obtain the required moisture from some considerable
 
 DOWN TO SABI RIVER AND MATIXDKLA RUINS 265 
 
 distance. The effect, however, is exceedingly odd to 
 see these colossal trees growing in no depth of soil on 
 the top of a granite rock. 
 
 I had always been sceptical about the honey-bird 
 until its virtues were properly proved to us when at 
 Matindela. An insignificant little bird, with a sig- 
 nificant chirp, led our men over rocks and through 
 jungle till they actually found honey, so that we could 
 no longer indulge in doubts as to this mysterious gift, 
 which, like the water-finding divining rods, I will 
 leave to others to explain. 
 
 Traces of recent life around Matindela were 
 numerous : the valleys had all at one time been 
 ploughed : ruined huts, constructed high up in the 
 trees, had served as outlooks for the agriculturists, 
 bark beehives were in the trees, but the villages were 
 all blackened and burnt, the granaries knocked 
 down and the inhabitants gone, no one knows where. 
 Never during any camp of lengthened duration 
 were we visited by so few natives as at Matindela. 
 About here game is very plentiful ; we sighted fresh 
 elephant and giraffe ' spoor ',' and we personally 
 made the acquaintance of zebras, kudu, and other 
 kinds of antelope. Across the valley below was an 
 old and now disused stockade for catching game, 
 and hunting-parties in this locality have been numer- 
 ous. These parties are arranged by the Makalangas 
 on a small or large scale ; sometimes, when they have 
 an elaborate system of stockades, they just drive the 
 game towards a cul de sac or a narrow gap where
 
 200 EXPLORATION JOURNEYS IN MASI1OXATAND 
 
 men are hidden in the grass ; sometimes they have 
 great parties forming two half-moons ; one of these 
 stations itself behind a kopje, whilst the other, with 
 dogs and shouting, drives the game to them. 
 
 Their game laws give rise to frequent squabbles 
 amongst the chiefs ; it is generally understood that, 
 if a man wounds a buck and another kills it, the 
 wounder claims the carcass, but the killer is entitled 
 to take whichever limb he wishes. There is a tribe 
 near Zimbabwe who will not eat a buck unless it has 
 had its throat cut, and so they endeavour first to 
 wound it, and then proceed to cut its throat. For 
 small buck, hares, &c., they make traps across the 
 narrow paths with a beam which falls when the animal 
 treads on the plank below, being fixed on the path 
 between two sloping rows of stakes. 
 
 Our course from Matindela was north-east not 
 the most direct route to the Sabi, which is only about 
 twenty miles due east, but we had nobody with us 
 who knew the way, and we had to go to a village for 
 a guide. After a ride of seven miles we reached a 
 curious lofty mountain called Chiburwe, close on 
 1,000 feet above the plain ; it is almost round, and its 
 flanks are decorated with huge granite boulders rising 
 out of euphorbia, baobabs, and rank tropical vegeta- 
 tion. On the side we first reached this mountain the 
 vegetation was too dense to allow us to ascend, so we 
 had to ride to the northern side and go up by a slippery 
 slope of black granite, the ordinary approach used by 
 the natives, whose bare feet cling readily to the rocks.
 
 DOWN TO SABI RIVER AND MATTNDELA RUINS 267 
 
 but which was horrible for feet encased in European 
 boots. The summit is flat and grassy like a Brighton 
 down, being covered with a soft small stagshorn moss, 
 delightful to lie upon. This spot is the happy play- 
 ground of two native villages, which are placed on 
 either side of the mountain ; here they are sublimely 
 safe and free from the raids of their enemies, and 
 Chiburwe forms a sort of Makalanga outpost in the 
 direction of the Sabi. Amongst other names mentioned 
 by Portuguese writers which are still retained in the 
 locality we find Chiburga as a stronghold, where the 
 Monomatapa's wives were kept. I think it highly 
 probable that this is the spot. On the summit we 
 found several sets of holes for the Isafuba game, and 
 the inhabitants we came across seemed more than 
 usually timid. Our view was indescribably lovely, 
 with Lutilo and the spots we knew well behind us, 
 and the mysterious blue mountains of Manica be- 
 fore us. 
 
 In a rocky crevice we found one of the miserable 
 villages of Chiburwe, with no beer, no milk, no fowls 
 and no eggs to be had; it appeared to be solely 
 inhabited by two women grinding millet, who were 
 much afraid of us, and retired into the darkest re- 
 cesses of their huts. Their ingenuity in utilising 
 bark is exemplified up here, where mud is scarce, for 
 they make their granaries of the bark of the baobab, 
 only covering the edges with mud, and binding them 
 round with withes. 
 
 For two days after leaving Chiburwe we wandered
 
 268 EXPLORATION JOURNEYS IN MASHONALAND 
 
 through trackless forests, guided only by a notion 
 of the direction we wished to go, for we could not 
 annex a native guide. A mile or two from Chiburwe 
 we found a ruined fort of the best period of Zimbabwe 
 work, with courses of great regularity, but much of 
 the wall had been knocked down by the baobab trees 
 which had grown up in it. Nobody could give us a 
 name for this ruin in the wilderness, so we called it 
 Chiburwe, measured it, took notes on it, and rode on. 
 
 The forest scenery was grand and impressive in 
 its solitude ; sometimes we had great difficulty in 
 getting our animals through the thick undergrowth ; 
 the trees were rich in colour, red and light green, 
 equal to any of our autumnal tints, out of which now 
 and again rose granite boulders. The crossing of the 
 Eiver Mwairari, a fine tributary of the Sabi, gave us 
 a little trouble ; it has a fine volume of water with 
 occasional rapids, waterfalls, and high rocks, and we 
 had to follow its right bank for several miles before 
 we could get our animals across ; the river bed was 
 luxuriant in tall pampas grass and patches of 
 papyrus. 
 
 On the second afternoon after leaving Chiburwe 
 we sighted the Sabi River, having gone miles out of 
 our way ; it is a really magnificent stream even here 
 so far inland, and is navigable now for canoes very 
 little below where we struck it. In ancient times 
 it must have been navigable for larger craft, for all 
 African rivers are silting up. There is little doubt 
 but that the ancient builders of the ruins in Mashona-
 
 DOWN TO SA13I KIVER AND MATINDELA RUINS 269 
 
 land, the forts and towns between the Zambesi and 
 the Limpopo, utilised this stream as their road to and 
 from the coast ; and as the country again is opened out 
 it may still be found useful as a waterway for small 
 craft. Where we struck the Sabi it is a rapid river, 
 flowing through a gorge and with a rocky bed ; there 
 are no marshes here, but fertile-looking slopes lead- 
 ing down to it, which appeared to us to promise well 
 for the future agriculturists who settle on its 
 banks, though the rainfall, which takes place only in 
 summer, and for the space of only four months, will 
 be a drawback to cereals. Now these slopes are 
 entirely deserted, and about here we saw no villages, 
 nor natives, nor paths, for days, doubtless owing to the 
 raids of Gungunyana and his Shangans from across 
 the stream. There is no doubt about it, the world 
 is not full yet. In Mashonaland there exist tens 
 of thousands of acres of fertile land entirely un- 
 occupied. Thanks probably to the Matabele raids, 
 the population is here exceedingly scanty, and when 
 one travels through the long-deserted stretches of 
 country, healthy, well watered, and capable of growing 
 anything, which still exist between the Zambesi and 
 the Limpopo, one cannot help thinking that those 
 who complain of the world being too full, and that 
 there is no opening for colonisation, are a century or 
 two before their time. 
 
 Everybody revelled in the waters of the Sabi that 
 evening bathing and washing clothes occupied most 
 of our time until it was dark ; but, alas, our camp was
 
 270 EXPLORATION JOURNEYS IN MASHONALAND 
 
 pitched on ground over which a grass fire had passed, 
 and the good effects of our Sabi wash were more than 
 obliterated. We again plunged into the trackless 
 wilderness, and it was not till the second day after 
 leaving the river that we once more joyfully found 
 ourselves in a native path leading in the direction 
 which we ought to. go ; but we followed it for over 
 thirty miles before we came across a village. This 
 was called Zamopera, on the banks of a pleasant 
 stream. We were so pleased to see people again and to 
 have a chance of replenishing our stock of provisions 
 that we tarried there for the best part of a day, and 
 pitched our camp beneath the shadow of a friendly 
 rock. Crowds of men and women from Zamopera 
 came to visit us ; wild-looking people they were the . 
 men with long matted hair hanging like a fringe over 
 their faces, and hung with beads and cowrie-shells, 
 whilst the women here cut off all their hair except a 
 circle in the middle, which is short and threaded with 
 beads in seven rows, four of white outside and three 
 of red in the centre, looking exactly like round bead 
 mats on the top of their heads. We were now in 
 the country of another great Makalanga chief, called 
 Gambidji, whose kraal, perched on a lofty rock, we 
 sighted in the distance, but had not time to visit. 
 
 In the villages about here, which are numerous 
 and flourishing, we saw many curious objects, some 
 of which we acquired, others we could not strike a 
 bargain for : a native razor, bone dollasses, and quaint- 
 shaped battle-axes were added to our collection.
 
 DOWN TO SABI RIVER AND MATIXDELA RUINS 271 
 
 Mafusaire's village is perched amongst odd- shaped 
 boulders, fantastic as the rocks in Dovedale, ever vary- 
 ing in form. The inhabitants were a very friendly 
 lot, and were almost beside themselves with delight 
 when my wife took down her hair and showed them 
 its length. They greatly prized a gift of a few of these 
 long hairs, which they will doubtless keep as a 
 memento of the first white lady who ever came 
 amongst them. 
 
 The fear of the Makalanga of horses is most 
 curious ; even our own men would not touch them, 
 and the villagers were quite awestruck when we 
 mounted. They generally followed us in crowds for 
 a little distance from the village, and screamed with 
 delight when we trotted, scampering and capering by 
 our sides. 
 
 We passed by the 
 tomb of a chief on the 
 afternoon after leaving 
 Mafusaire's ; it consisted 
 of a mound with a cir- 
 cular construction of 
 stones on the top of it, 
 over which is a thatched 
 roof standing on posts ; 
 on the top of the stones 
 stood a pot, in which 
 beer is periodically put, for the delectation of the 
 deceased. 
 
 We were now in the immediate neighbourhood 
 
 CHIEF'S TOMB
 
 272 EXPLORATION JOURNEYS IN MASHONALAND 
 
 of Mount Wedza, the highest point in Mashonaland, 
 with an elevation of over 6,000 feet above sea level. 
 It is for the most part a dark forest-clad ridge, and it 
 is from here that the natives of Garnbidji's country 
 get the iron ore which they smelt in their furnaces 
 and convert into tools and weapons. The villages in 
 this district are entirely given up to the smelting 
 business, and outside the kraals usually are erected 
 two or more furnaces. They are still in the Stone Age 
 here, using for anvils and hammers pieces of hard 
 diorite. One of these villages where we halted for 
 a while was, to our astonishment, called Smet. Not 
 believing our ears, we asked again and again, and got 
 the same reply. The only solution to this strange 
 nomenclature seems to be, that they either got the 
 name from some Dutch trader or from some enter- 
 prising Makalanga who had been down to work in the 
 Kimberley mines. For long these natives have been 
 in the habit of doing this, tramping all the way from 
 the Zambesi to the diamond-fields, and not returning 
 thence until they have acquired enough wealth to buy 
 a wife or two and settle themselves in life. 
 
 A man from Smet, who was going to 'Mtigeza's 
 kraal, volunteered to act as our guide. He carried 
 with him three large iron hoes which he had made, 
 and for which he expected to get a goat at the kraal. 
 Gambidji's country is very extensive, extending 
 nominally from the Sabi to a ridge which we crossed 
 before reaching 'Mtigeza's, and most of the iron- 
 smelting villages recognise his sovereignty.
 
 DOWN TO SABI RIVER AND MATINDELA RUINS 273 
 
 Two chiefs of the name of 'Mtigeza live around 
 Mount Wedza, both claiming to be the descendants of 
 the old 'Mtigeza stock. Our 'Mtigeza was a queer little 
 old man, almost in his dotage, but considered very 
 powerful by his .neighbours, and this was evidenced 
 l>v the villages being more in the open, and not 
 seeking protection from rocky heights. His fortress 
 is a curious one, situated on an extensive plateau 
 4,800 feet above the sea level, with disjointed low 
 masses of rocks dotted about. Around the central mass 
 of rocks is 'Mtigeza's head kraal, surrounded by pali- 
 sades, and the rock itself is strongly fortified, with all 
 the approaches walled up, and for us Europeans it 
 was by no means easy to reach the summit by means 
 of holes through which we could hardly squeeze, 
 and slits in the rock through which we could only 
 pass sideways. On the top is a circular fort built of 
 rough stones and mortar, and the boast of the people 
 here is that the Matabele have never been able to 
 take their stronghold. From the fort we had a good 
 bird's-eye view over 'Mtigeza's realm ; there are a 
 number of encircling villages built on similar masses 
 of rock, about half a mile or more distant. These 
 are governed by the old man's sons. 
 
 We sent the old chief a blanket, and he presently 
 came to pay us a visit. According to our custom, we 
 showed him our tilings, in which he did not manifest 
 much interest until my wife produced a burning-glass, 
 and showed off its wonderful fire-producing qualities 
 on his skin. Then in a weak little voice the old chief
 
 271 EXPLORATION JOURNEYS IN MASHON ALAND 
 
 murmured, ' I, 'Mtigeza, want it,' and she promptly 
 presented it to him, also a little salt. As we lunched 
 he sat and watched us, but would partake of nothing 
 we offered him, until we threw some well-picked 
 chicken bones to our men ; these he. coveted and got. 
 'Mtigeza held an indaba or palaver of his in- 
 
 INTEEIOR OF A HUT 
 
 aunas in a shady nook before his kraal, the result 
 of which was that a goat was to be presented to us 
 by quite a lengthy process. First of all it was pre- 
 sented to Mashah, who humbly received it with hat 
 off and head bowed, making all the necessary compli- 
 ments for ufe. Mashah then presented it to our white
 
 DOWN TO SABI RIVER AND MATINDELA RUINS 275 
 
 men, and they finally presented it to us, and it formed 
 a valuable addition to our larder. 
 
 We were surprised to find little evidence of wealth 
 in 'Mtiseza's kraal. 
 
 O 
 
 Their knives and 
 snuff-boxes were de- 
 cidedly inferior in 
 workmanship to 
 those we had seen 
 elsewhere, and this 
 we found as we tra- 
 velled on to be in- 
 variably the case 
 where the Matabele 
 nr Zulu influence has 
 been least felt. The 
 Zulu is the most 
 ingenious of the 
 Abantu races, and 
 has imparted his in- 
 genuity to the Maka- 
 langa, over whom he 
 has raided and many 
 of whom have been 
 his slaves. 
 
 There were two as yet roofless but substantial 
 huts being built in the kraal entirely of mud, which 
 is a new departure for the Makalanga. The insides of 
 these were decorated with squares of black and white, 
 like those one sees in Bechuanaland. Undoubtedly 
 
 HOUSEHOLD STORE FOR GRAIN, WITH 
 NATIVE DRAWINGS
 
 276 EXPLORATION JOURNEYS IN MASTJOXALAND 
 
 foreign influence is being felt here from its proximity 
 to Fort Charter, and very soon the architectural 
 features of Makalangaland will change with the 
 rapidity that all things change in Kaffirdom. Inside 
 the huts were big household granaries for the domestic 
 stores, also made of mud and decorated curiously 
 with rims, and rude paintings in white of deer, birds. 
 
 '' innnrrii 
 
 NATIVE DRAWINGS 
 
 and men. One represents a waggon with a span of six 
 oxen and a man driving it. The artistic skill is, of 
 course, of a low order, but it shows the influence of 
 the Morunko, or white man, and how his approach 
 has been the theme of their wonder and excited their 
 imagination. I doubt not but those who follow after us 
 will find attempts made to illustrate on their granaries
 
 DOWN TO SABI RIVER AND MATINDELA RUINS 277 
 a Morunko lady with long flowing hair trotting on 
 
 f? O O O 
 
 that strange animal, the horse. 
 
 'Mtigeza and his kraal pleased us so much that we 
 did not leave till quite late in the afternoon. We 
 passed through quantities of rice-fields, which spoke 
 of prosperity ; and this Makalanga rice is truly excel- 
 lent, being larger, more glutinous, and of a pinker 
 hue than our Indian rice, which to our minds tasted 
 very insipid after it. It was almost dark when we 
 reached Matimbi's kraal, and pitched our tents close 
 to the tomb of another chief. Matimbi came down to 
 see us ; he is the handsomest of all the chiefs we had 
 yet seen, with quite a European-shaped face, long 
 hair and long beard, both rarities in this country, 
 and a splendid knife, carved and decorated with brass 
 wire, which we coveted but could not obtain. 
 
 On the following day, September 2, a long ride 
 brought us to Fort Charter and our waggons in time 
 for our midday meal. Thoroughly did we enjoy 
 our tables, our chairs, and our waggon-beds after 
 nearly three weeks' intimate acquaintance with mother 
 earth. Until the experience of greater privations 
 farther north came upon us, we thought we enjoyed 
 the food, the soup, the bully beef, the bread, and the 
 jam which our cook placed before our hungry eyes 
 to the utmost extent that man could do. 
 
 Here we regretfully parted with our friend 
 Mashah and most of our Makalangas ; two only of en- 
 terprising mind elected to follow us and earn more 
 blankets, and they served us with unswerving fidelity
 
 278 EXPLORATION JOURNEYS IN MASIIONALAND 
 
 till we reached the coast at Beira. Mashanani was 
 the name of one of them, whose only fault was a too 
 great attachment to Kaffir beer ; Iguzu was the name 
 of the other, the most industrious man I ever saw. 
 When not working for us, he would sit on a rock for 
 ever patching a ragged old shirt that had been pre- 
 sented to him, until there was little of the original 
 fabric left, or else turning old jam tins into orna- 
 ments or threading beads.
 
 279 
 
 CHAPTEE IX 
 
 FORT SALISBURY AND THE OLD WORKINGS 
 AND RUINS OF THE MAZOE VALLEY 
 
 A FEW remarks on the future capital of the Mashona- 
 land gold-fields may not be amiss, by way of sharp 
 contrast, in a work more especially devoted to the 
 study of the past. The same motive, namely, the 
 thirst for gold, created the hoary walls of Zimbabwe 
 and the daub huts of Fort Salisbury, probably the 
 oldest and the youngest buildings erected for the 
 purpose by mankind, ever keen after that precious 
 metal which has had so remarkable an influence 
 on generation after generation of human atoms. 
 These remarks on Fort Salisbury will, moreover, 
 have a certain amount of historical value in years 
 to come, when it has its railway, its town hall, 
 and its cathedral, for we were there on the day on 
 which its first birthday was kept, the anniversary 
 of the planting of the British flag by the pioneers 
 on the dreary upland waste of Mashonaland. It 
 seemed to us a very creditable development, too, 
 for so young a place, when it is taken into con-
 
 280 EXPLORATION JOURNEYS IN MASHONALAND 
 
 sideration that Fort Salisbury, unlike the mushroom 
 towns of the Western Hemisphere, has grown up at a 
 distance of 800 miles from a railway, without tele- 
 graphic communication, and for months during the 
 rainy season without intercourse of any kind with 
 the outer world, handicapped by fever, famine, and 
 an unparalleled continuation of rain. 
 
 In the space of twelve months three distinct 
 townships had grown up. One was under the low hill 
 or kopje devoted to business men, where indications 
 of brick houses succeeding daub huts had already 
 manifested themselves; solicitors, auctioneers, and a 
 washerwoman had already established themselves 
 there ; bars, restaurants, and a so-called hotel had 
 been constructed. Fort Salisbury had already started 
 its mass meetings and revolutionary elements, for it 
 seems that in all new communities the spirit of evil 
 must always come in advance of the good. - An enter- 
 prising individual had produced a paper called the 
 Maslionaland Times and Zambesia Herald, and two 
 men had brought billiard-tables with them, one 
 of which was hopelessly smashed on the journey, 
 ensuring for the other a successful and paying mono- 
 poly. About half a mile from this busy quarter 
 was the military centre, the fort and the Govern- 
 ment stores surmounted by Her Majesty's flag, form- 
 ing a little village in itself. A quarter of a mile 
 farther were the huts devoted to the civil adminis- 
 tration ; and farther off still were the hospital huts 
 superintended by some charming Benedictine sisters
 
 FORT SALISBURY AND THE MAZOE VALLEY 281 
 
 and a Jesuit Father. Around all this was the wide 
 open veldt of Mashonaland, studded just then by 
 lovely flowers, and grazed upon by many lean, worn- 
 out oxen, the sole survivors of many well-appointed 
 teams which had struggled up the same interminable 
 road that we had, leaving by the roadside the car- 
 casses of so many comrades, which, in process of 
 decay, had caused us many an unpleasant sensation. 
 
 On September 12, the anniversary of the arrival 
 of the pioneers, a grand dinner was given to about 
 eighty individuals at the hotel to celebrate the event : 
 representatives of the military, civil, and business 
 communities were bidden ; gold prospectors, mining 
 experts, men of established and questionable reputa- 
 tions all were there, and the promoters underwent 
 superhuman difficulties in catering for so many 
 guests, and gave fabulous prices for a sufficiency of 
 wine, spirits, and victuals properly to celebrate the 
 occasion. It was in its initiative ostensibly a social 
 gathering to celebrate an ostensibly auspicious 
 occasion ; but one after-dinner speech became more 
 intemperate than the other : the authorities were 
 loudly abused for faults committed by them, real or 
 imaginary ; well -known names, when pronounced, 
 were hooted and hissed ; and the social gathering 
 developed, as the evening went on, into a wild de- 
 monstration of discontent. 
 
 At the bottom of all this ill-feeling was the 
 question of supplies. The previous rainy season had 
 been passed by the pioneers in abject misery ; there
 
 282 EXPLORATION JOURNEYS IN MASHONALANB 
 
 was no food to eat, and no medicine to administer to 
 the overwhelming number of fever patients. The 
 rainy season was now fast approaching again, when 
 for months the place would be cut off by the rivers 
 from the outer world, and the 400 waggon-loads of 
 provisions promised by the company had not yet 
 arrived. Lucky were those who had anything to sell 
 in those days : a bottle of brandy fetched 3/. 10s. ; 
 champagne was bought at the rate of 30Z. a 
 dozen ; ham was 4s. Qd. a Ib. ; tins of jam 5s. Qd. ; 
 butter, tinned meats, and luxuries were impossible 
 to obtain ; and yet when, after a few weeks, the 
 - 400 waggons did come, there was a glut in the 
 market of all these things ; plenty was ensured for 
 the coming wet season, and there were no more mass 
 meetings or abuse of the authorities. 
 
 Probably few cases have occurred in the world's 
 history of greater difficulty in catering than that which 
 presented itself to the Chartered Company during 
 the first year of Fort Salisbury's existence. Very 
 little could be obtained from a native source, for the 
 inhabitants here are few. Hungry, impecunious gold 
 prospectors were nocking into the place ; the usual 
 tribe of adventurers, who always appear as impedi- 
 ments to a new and presumably prosperous under- 
 taking, were here by the score. Eight hundred miles 
 lay between Fort Salisbury and the food supply, which 
 had to be traversed by the tedious process of bullock 
 waggons. The Pungwe route, which had been con- 
 fidently looked to as a more rapid means of com-
 
 FORT SALISBURY AND THE MAZOE VALLEY 283 
 
 munication, had so far proved a, fiasco, and hundreds 
 of pounds' worth of provisions were rotting on the 
 other side of the fly belt at Mapanda's and Beira ; so 
 no wonder discontent was rife at the prospect of 
 famine and death during the ensuing wet months, 
 and no wonder just then that the administrators 
 were at their wits' end, for, though firmly believing 
 that the waggons would come, they could not be sure, 
 for there was no telegraphic communication in those 
 days. One morning we saw Mr. Selous hurriedly 
 despatched to bring up the waggons at any cost. 
 A few weeks later we heard that they had arrived, 
 and the danger which had threatened the infant Fort 
 Salisbury was averted. 
 
 At an elevation of 5,000 feet above the sea level, 
 and barely 18 south of the equator, the air of Fort 
 Salisbury is naturally delicious, and it will probably 
 be the healthiest place in the world when the swamps 
 in its vicinity are properly drained, from which, 
 during the rainy season, malarious vapours proceed 
 and cause fever. The question of drainage was exer- 
 cising the minds of the authorities when we were 
 there, and much probably has now been done in that 
 direction. Searching winds and clouds of dust were 
 about the only discomforts we personally experienced 
 whilst encamped there ; these, however, caused us no 
 little inconvenience, as we were preparing our belong- 
 ings for various destinations, a matter of no small 
 difficulty after seven months of waggon life. We 
 were told to sell everything we could, including our
 
 284 EXPLORATION JOURNEYS IN MAStiONALAND 
 
 waggons and oxen, as it would only be possible to 
 perform the rest of the journeys before us with 
 horses and donkeys and bearers, necessitating the 
 reduction of our impedimenta to the smallest possible 
 quantity. What promised to be a very interesting 
 expedition was in store for us namely, to take a 
 present of 40/. worth of goods from the Chartered 
 Company to a chief, 'Mtoko by name, who lived 
 about 120 miles north-east of Fort Salisbury. His 
 country had as yet been hardly visited by white men, 
 and was reported to be replete with anthropological 
 interests. Then we were to make our way down to 
 Makoni's country, where the existence of ruins was 
 brought before our notice, and so on to Umtali and 
 the coast. This prospective trip would take us many 
 weeks, and would lead us through much country 
 hitherto unexplored, so that ample preparations and 
 a careful adjustment of our belongings were necessary. 
 The best interpreter to be had was kindly placed 
 at our disposal by the Chartered Company, as the 
 language in those parts differs essentially from that 
 spoken at Zimbabwe and the Sabi, a certain portion 
 of which had by this time penetrated into our brains. 
 The interpreter in question was just then absent 
 from Fort Salisbury, so to occupy our time we 
 decided on a trip to the Mazoe Valley, and the old 
 gold workings which exist there. 
 
 Having despatched three donkeys with bedding 
 and provisions the night before, we left Fort Salis- 
 bury one lovely morning, September 15, and rode
 
 FORT SALISBURY ANU THE MAZOE VALLEY 285 
 
 through country as uninteresting as one could well 
 imagine until we reached Mount Hampden. Some- 
 how or another we had formed impressions of this 
 mountain of a wholly erroneous character. It has 
 an historic interest as a landmark, named after one 
 of the first explorers of Mashonaland, but beyond 
 this it is miserably disappointing. Instead of the 
 fine mountain which our imaginations had painted 
 for us, we saw only a miserable round elevation 
 above the surrounding plain, which might possibly 
 be as high as Box Hill, certainly no higher. It is 
 covered with trees of stunted growth ; it is absolutely 
 featureless ; and is alone interesting from its isola- 
 tion, and the vast area of flat veldt which its summit 
 commands. 
 
 Soon after leaving Mount Hampden the views 
 grew very much finer, and as we descended into the 
 valley of the Tatagora, a tributary of the Mazoe, we 
 entered into a distinctly new class of scenery. Here 
 everything is rich and green ; the rounded hills and 
 
 / o o 
 
 wooded heights were an immense relief to us after 
 the continuous though fantastic granite kopjes which 
 we had travelled amongst during the whole of our 
 sojourn in Mashonaland. The delicate green leaves 
 of the machabel tree, on which, I am told, elephants 
 delight to feed, were just now at their best, and take 
 the place of the mimosa, mapani, and other trees, 
 of which we had grown somewhat weary. The soil, 
 too, is here of a reddish colour, and we enjoyed all 
 the pleasurable sensations of getting into an entirely
 
 286 EXPLORATION JOURNEYS IN MASIIONALAND 
 
 new formation, after the eye had been accustomed to 
 one style of colouring for months. 
 
 As we proceeded down the valley the hills closed 
 in and became higher ; occasional rugged peaks stood 
 up out of gentle wooded slopes ; and if one had 
 ignored the trivial detail of foliage, one might have 
 
 imagined that we 
 were plunging into 
 a pretty Norwe- 
 gian valley with 
 a stream rushing 
 down its midst. 
 
 Presently we 
 came upon a nest 
 of native kraals, 
 and alighted to 
 inspect them. 
 
 There are those 
 who say that these 
 people are the 
 
 NATIVE BOWL FROM THE MAZOE VALLEY real AlaSnOliaS, 
 
 who have given 
 
 their name to the whole country. This I much 
 doubt ; at any rate they are very different from the 
 Makalangas, with whom we had hitherto been entirely 
 associated, and have been here only for a few years. 
 When Mr. Selous first visited this valley on one of 
 his hunting expeditions in 1883, he found it quite un- 
 inhabited, whereas now there are many villages, an 
 apt illustration of the migratory tendencies of these
 
 FORT SALISBURY AND THE MAZOE VALLEY 287 
 
 tribes. They are quite different in type to the Maka- 
 langas, and, I should say, distinctly inferior in phy- 
 sique. They build their huts differently, with long 
 eaves coming right down to the ground. Their 
 granaries are fatter and lower, and made of branches 
 instead of mud, these two facts pointing distinctly 
 to a tribal variation. They wear their hair in long 
 strings over their face, one on each side of the nose, 
 and the others hanging on their cheeks, giving them 
 quite a sphinx-like appearance. These strings are 
 adorned with beads and cowrie-shells, and must form 
 the most uncomfortable style of coiffure that ever was 
 invented. They have magnificent bowls of hand- 
 made pottery, decorated with chevron patterns in red 
 and black, which colours they obtain from hematite 
 and plumbago ; and on all advantageous spots near 
 the villages are platforms raised on stakes for drying 
 grain. 
 
 Undoubtedly this race, whoever they may be, have 
 a northern origin, for they call beer Doorah or Doro, 
 the same word used for the same material in Abyssinia 
 and Nubia. This word is also used in M'toko's and 
 Makoni's country. Curiously enough, Edrisi, in his 
 geography, when speaking of the Zindj inhabitants 
 near Sofala, makes this statement : ' Dowrah is very 
 scarce amongst them,' pointing to the Arabian origin 
 of the word ; whereas in Manicaland beer is called 
 Wa-iva, and in Mashonaland, south of Fort Salis- 
 bury, it is called 'Mtwala, a word of Zulu origin. 
 
 Four miles beyond these villages the valley gets 
 
 u2
 
 288 EXPLORATION JOURNEYS IN MASHONALAND 
 
 very narrow and the scenery very fine ; and the shades 
 of evening found us comfortably located in the huts 
 of Mr. Fleming, a gold prospector, at a distance of 
 twenty-five miles from Fort Salisbury and in the 
 vicinity of the ancient mines. Immediately opposite 
 to us rose a fine rocky mountain in which are caves 
 where the natives hide themselves and their cattle 
 during Matabele raids. It was a lovely warm evening, 
 and as we sat contemplating the scene and resting 
 after the labours of the day, we felt the soothing 
 influence upon us of scenery more congenial to our 
 taste than any we had yet seen in Mashonaland. 
 
 The first set of old workings which we visited was 
 only a few hundred yards from Mr. Fleming's huts, 
 and consisted of rows of vertical shafts, now filled up 
 with rubbish, sunk along the edge of the auriferous 
 reef, and presumably, from instances we saw later, 
 communicating with one another by horizontal shafts 
 below. We saw also several instances of sloping 
 and horizontal shafts, all pointing to considerable 
 engineering skill. It must have been ages since these 
 shafts were worked, for they are all filled nearly to 
 the surface with debris, and huge machabel-trees, the 
 largest in the vicinity, are growing out of them. We 
 then proceeded to visit some old workings about a 
 mile and a half off on the hill slopes. One vertical 
 shaft had been cleared out by Mr. Fleming's workmen, 
 and it was fifty-five feet deep. Down this we went 
 with considerable difficulty, and saw for ourselves the 
 ancient tool marks and the smaller horizontal shafts
 
 FORT SALISBURY AND THE MAZOE VALLEY 289 
 
 which connected the various holes bored into the gold- 
 bearing quartz. 
 
 I am told that near Hartley Hills some of these 
 old workings go down even to a greater depth, and 
 that one has been cleared out to the depth of eighty 
 feet, proving incontestably that the ancient workers 
 of these mines were not content with mere surface 
 work, and followed the reef with the skill of a modern 
 miner. 
 
 All about here the ground is honeycombed with 
 old shafts of a similar nature, indicated now by small 
 round depressions in straight lines along the reef 
 where different shafts had been sunk ; in fact, the 
 output of gold in centuries long gone by must have 
 been enormous. 
 
 Since the modern invasion of this gold-producing 
 district a considerable amount of prospecting has been 
 done, but of necessity time has not allowed of a 
 thorough investigation of the country. Wherever the 
 gold prospector has been, he finds instances of ancient 
 working, and these old shafts extend all up the country 
 wherever the gold-bearing quartz is to be found. 
 There are ruins similar to those at Zimbabwe and the 
 old workings in the Tati district. The old workings and 
 ruins extend for miles and miles up the Mazoe Valley. 
 Numerous old shafts are to be found at Hartley Hills, 
 and on the 'Mswezwe Eiver. Near Fort Victoria and 
 in the immediate vicinity of Zimbabwe the prospectors 
 have lately brought to light the same features; 
 everywhere, in short, where the pioneer prospectors
 
 290 EXPLORATION JOURNEYS IN MASHONALAND 
 
 have as yet penetrated overwhelming proof of the 
 extent of the ancient industry is brought to light. 
 Mr. E. A. Maund thus speaks of the old workings in 
 the 'Mswezwe district : ] ' On all sides there was tes- 
 timony of the enormous amount of work that had 
 been done by the ancients for the production of gold. 
 Here, as on the Mazoe and at Umtali, tens of 
 thousands of slaves must have been at work taking 
 out the softer parts of the casing of the reefs, and 
 millions of tons have been overturned in their search 
 for gold.' 
 
 In all these places, too, as in the Mazoe Valley, 
 especially down by the streams, are found crushing- 
 stones, some in long rows, suggesting the idea that 
 the gold had been worked by gangs of slaves chained 
 together in rows, after the fashion depicted on the 
 Egyptian monuments and described by Diodorus ; and 
 near Mr. Fleming's camp we were shown traces of a 
 cement smelting furnace similar to the one we dis- 
 covered in the fortress of Zimbabwe, showing that all 
 the various processes of gold production, crushing, 
 washing, and smelting, were carried on on the spot. 
 
 As we proceeded up the Mazoe Valley we saw 
 plenty of traces of the juvenile enterprise at work 
 on the old hunting-ground ; and a little below Mr. 
 Fleming's camp the Taragona and Mazoe Eivers join, 
 the latter coming down from a valley of higher level, 
 by a Poort or gorge. Established on the old work- 
 ings along here were numerous settlements bearing 
 
 1 Lecture before the Colonial Institute, April 12, 1892.
 
 FORT SALISBURY AND THE MAZOE VALLEY 291 
 
 modern names Kothschild's, Cherry's, Lockner's, 
 and others and soon probably a little township will 
 spring up around the mining commissioner's hut, 
 where the Mazoe Eiver is lined by fine timber, includ- 
 ing lemon-trees, the fruit of which was just then ripe, 
 and deliciously refreshing after our hot morning's 
 work. These lemon-trees are alluded to by Dos 
 Santos as existing in these parts in his day three 
 hundred years ago. 
 
 The mining commissioner, Mr. Nesbit, entertained 
 us most hospitably for our midday repast, and 
 directed us on our way to the Yellow Jacket Mine, 
 near which we were to see more old workings and 
 an ancient ruined fort. By another narrow gorge or 
 Poort, rich in vegetation, and lovely to look upon, we 
 reached the higher valley, and when darkness had 
 already set in, by the aid of the distant glimmering 
 light of a camp fire we made our way to the tents of 
 the Yellow Jacket prospectors, whose abode we had 
 nearly missed in the gloaming. The kindly pro- 
 spectors hastened to prepare for us an excellent 
 supper of eland steak, for they had shot one of these 
 fine beasts a day or two before, a wonderfully good 
 stroke of luck for us, as we were without meat. The 
 eland is the best beast you can kill in Mashonaland, for 
 not only is it large, but around its heart it has a 
 considerable amount of fat, so that its flesh can be 
 properly served up, and not reduced to lumps of 
 leather for want of grease. They had also shot a
 
 292 EXPLORATION JOURNEYS IN MASHONALAND 
 
 fine lion here not long before, and proudly showed 
 us the skin. 
 
 The country about here is very thickly wooded, 
 and we had a glorious ride next morning to the ruins 
 we wished to visit, about five miles distant, across 
 rushing streams overhung with verdure, and in which 
 alluvial gold is still found in small quantities. Here 
 we saw specimens of those curious birds with long 
 tail-like feathers at the end of their wings, which can 
 only fly for a short distance, and seem overweighted 
 by nature for some peculiar freak of her own. There 
 are, too, all up this country many varieties of small 
 birds with tail feathers four or five times their own 
 length, which droop as they fly. These birds seem to 
 me to resemble closely the one depicted on the 
 temple of Deir-el-Bahari in the representation of a 
 village in Punt (Mariette's ' Deir-el-Bahari,' plate v.), 
 identified as the Cinnyris metallica, and found all 
 along the east coast of Africa. 
 
 We reached the ruin in good time, and halted by 
 it for a couple of hours. It is a small ancient fort, 
 built, as usual, on a granite kopje, and constructed 
 with courses of wonderful regularity, equal to what we 
 term the best period of Zimbabwe architecture. Not 
 much of the wall was standing ; enough, however, to 
 show us that the fort had been almost twenty feet in 
 diameter, and to cause us to wonder where the remain- 
 ing stones could have gone to, as there are no buildings 
 or Kaffir kraals anywhere near it. This is another of 
 the many mysteries attached to the Mashonaland
 
 FORT SALISBURY AND THE MAZOE VALLEY 293 
 
 ruins ; where the walls are ruined the stones would 
 seem to have entirely disappeared. This difficulty 
 confronted us at several places, and I ara utterly at 
 a loss to account for it. 
 
 The fort, as it stands now, is exceedingly pictur- 
 esque, in a green glade with mountains shutting it in 
 
 RUIN IN MAZOE VALLEY 
 
 on all sides ; fine timber grows inside it and large 
 boulders are enclosed within the walls. It was ob- 
 viously erected as a fort to protect the miners of the 
 district, and is a link in the chain of evidence which 
 connects the Zimbabwe ruins with the old workings 
 scattered over the country. 
 
 On our homeward journey we visited a lot more
 
 294 EXPLORATION JOURNEYS IN MASHONALAND 
 
 ancient workings, some of which are being opened 
 by the present occupiers, who seemed tolerably well 
 satisfied with their properties, despite the strictures 
 which had been passed by experts, that the gold reefs 
 in the Mazoe Valley ' pinched out ' and did other dis- 
 agreeable things which they ought not to do. From 
 a picturesque point of view the Mazoe Valley is 
 certainly one of the pet places in Mashonaland : the 
 views in every direction are exquisite, water is 
 abundant everywhere, and verdure rich ; and if the 
 prospectors are disappointed in their search for gold, 
 and find that the ancients have exhausted the place, 
 they will have, at any rate, valuable properties from 
 an agricultural point of view. 
 
 Owing to our previous arrangements we were 
 obliged to return to Fort Salisbury the next day, 
 regretting much that we had not time to proceed 
 farther up the Mazoe Valley, where, about forty miles 
 farther on, is another great centre of ancient industry. 
 I was told of another ruin there, probably built for the 
 same defensive purpose; it is near a Kaffir village called 
 Chipadzi's. About twenty-five miles farther up the 
 valley from the commissioner's is Mapandera's kraal 
 on the Sangwe Eiver, a tributary of the Mazoe or 
 Mazowe. Here, on the Inyota Mountain, gold is said 
 to be plentiful and old workings very numerous, as 
 many as seventy-five crushing-stones having been 
 counted on one single claim. Twenty miles south- 
 east of Mapandera's is Chipadzi's kraal, and a few 
 miles from here in the mountains is another ruin,
 
 FORT SALISBURY AND THE MAZOE VALLEY 295 
 
 described to me as being a circular wall round a 
 kopje from 150 to 200 feet in diameter. This wall is 
 in a very ruined condition, being not more than four 
 feet in height, but the courses are reported to be quite 
 as regular as those of Zimbabwe, which appears to be 
 the crucial test in classifying these remains of ancient 
 workmanship. It has no entrance, and the natives 
 thereabouts did not appear to know anything about 
 it or attach any special interest to it. 
 
 The Mazoe Valley is frequently alluded to in early 
 Portuguese enterprise, being easily approachable from 
 the Zambesi, and the river is, I am told, navigable 
 about eighty miles below where we struck it. 
 
 Couto, the Portuguese writer, thus speaks of the 
 gold mines here in his quaint legendary style : ' The 
 richest mines of all are those of Massapa, where they 
 show the Abyssinian mine from which the Queen of 
 Sheba took the greater part of the gold which she 
 went to offer to the Temple of Solomon, and it is 
 Ophir, for the Kaffirs called it Fur and the Moors Afur 
 . . . the veins of gold are so big, that they expand 
 with so much force, that they raise the roots of trees 
 two feet.' He fixes the spot which he here alludes to 
 farther on when speaking about the three markets 
 held by the Portuguese in these parts : ' (1) Luanhe, 
 thirty-five leagues from Tete South, between two small 
 rivers, which join and are called Masouvo ; (2) Bacoto, 
 forty leagues from Tete ; and (3) Massapa, fifty leagues 
 from Tete up the said River Masouvo.' Now the 
 Mazoe, which, doubtless, in the native tongue, is the
 
 296 EXPLORATION JOURNEYS IN MASHONALAND 
 
 Maswe, like the Pungwe, Zimbabwe, &c., joins the 
 Zambesi just below Tete. 
 
 Further evidences of this Portuguese enterprise 
 will doubtless come to light as the Mazoe Valley is 
 further explored. In the vicinity of a new mine 
 called the Jumbo, fragments of old Delft pottery have 
 been found, a few of which were shown to me when 
 at Fort Salisbury. Nankin china is also reported 
 from the same district, an indubitable proof of Por- 
 tuguese presence ; and no doubt many of the large 
 Venetian beads, centuries old, which we saw and 
 obtained specimens of from the Makalangas in the 
 neighbourhood of Zimbabwe, were barter goods given 
 by the traders of those days to the subjects of the 
 Monomatapa, who brought them gold in quills to the 
 three above-named depots, collected from the alluvial 
 beds of the Mazoe and other streams. It is rumoured 
 amongst the inhabitants of the Mazoe and Manica 
 that long ago, in the days of their ancestors, white 
 men worked gold and built themselves houses here. 
 This rumour most probably refers to the Portu- 
 guese, who at the three above-mentioned places 
 had churches and forts, faint traces of which are still 
 to be found in the district. 
 
 Corvo, in his work ' As Provincias ultramarinas,' 
 speaks at considerable length about the early Portu- 
 guese enterprise and the jealousy of the Arab mer- 
 chants at their advent, and how these men excited 
 the suspicion of the Monomatapa and brought about 
 the subsequent martyrdom of the Jesuit missionary
 
 FORT SALISBURY AND THE MAZOE VALLEY 297 
 
 Silveira and the entire destruction of the Portuguese 
 mission, which had nearly converted the Monomatapa 
 
 THREE VENETIAN BEADS J ONE COPPER BEAD; THREE OLD 
 WHITE VENETIAN BEADS', BONE WHORL, MEDICINE 
 PHIALS, AND BONE ORNAMENTS 
 
 in 1561. He concludes his remarks on this subject 
 as follows :
 
 298 EXPLORATION JOURNEYS IN MA SHON ALAND 
 
 'The early Portuguese did nothing more than 
 substitute themselves for the Moors, as they called 
 them, in the ports that those occupied on the coast ; 
 and their influence extended to the interior very 
 little ; unless, indeed, through some acts of violence, 
 or through some ephemeral alliance of no value what- 
 ever, and through missions without any practical or 
 lasting results. It is easy to see, by looking at the 
 map, where the Portuguese influence extended to, and 
 that they never left a good navigable river as a basis 
 of operation. They went up the Zambesi, and up 
 the Mazoe as far as they could, where they established 
 the three fairs for trading purposes, and up the 
 Pungwe and Buzi Eivers, establishing themselves in 
 the same way at Massi-Kessi and Bandiri ; and beyond 
 this their influence did not extend at all during what 
 may be called the most flourishing epoch of their 
 colonial existence.' 
 
 From the Yellow Jacket tents we had a long ride 
 before us of thirty miles back to Fort Salisbury. 
 We arose betimes and found it very -cold, \vith a thin 
 coating of ice on the water-cans, almost the only time 
 we saw ice during our * winter ' in Mashonaland, 
 although occasionally the wind was cold and the 
 nights very fresh. Winter in these parts is delightful, 
 with brilliant sun by day ; but as evening approaches 
 a coat is necessary, and during our two nights at the 
 Yellow Jacket huts we had to remove rugs, which 
 were sorely wanted below, to procure the necessary 
 warmth above.
 
 FORT SALISBURY AND THE MAZOE VALLEY 299 
 
 One more breakfast off that excellent eland forti- 
 fied us for our ride, and the sun was not high in the 
 heavens when we bade farewell to our hospitable 
 entertainers. About three hours' ride brought us to 
 the Mazoe again just before it enters the Poort on its 
 way to the lower valley. At the extremity of the 
 valley we were riding down, just before the hills are 
 ascended to reach the level plateau, there is another 
 nest of Kaffir villages ; one of these had incurred the 
 enmity of the officers of the Chartered Company for 
 refusing to recognise its authority by restoring stolen 
 cattle. 
 
 A fine of cattle had been imposed on the chief, 
 accompanied by a threat that if the fine was not paid 
 by a certain day the kraal would be burnt down. The 
 fine was not paid, and Major Forbes, with a band of 
 men, rode out to execute the orders, borrowing two of 
 our horses for the occasion. As we passed through 
 the village the ashes of huts and granaries were still 
 smouldering, broken pots and household goods lay 
 around in wild confusion, and all the inhabitants had 
 taken refuge at one of the neighbouring villages. As 
 we passed by this it is needless to say we did not 
 meet with an altogether cordial reception ; we dis- 
 mounted and went amongst them, asking in vain for 
 beer, eggs, and fowls. 
 
 ' The Morunko had taken them all,' they said, and 
 they received our overtures of friendship with silent, 
 and we thought rather ominous, contempt. Accord- 
 ingly we remounted and rode off, and I think all
 
 300 EXPLORATION JOURNEYS IN MASHONALAND 
 
 parties were relieved when we had put a little dis- 
 tance between us and the village. Since then I 
 hear a solitary white man has been murdered in the 
 Mazoe Valley. Luckily our force amounted to three, 
 a number sufficient to overawe any Mashonaland 
 village. 
 
 There are some nice-looking farms just started on 
 the slopes of the hills here. Near there we met a 
 wondrous long string of natives in single file, who 
 avoided us and looked askance at us and our animals. 
 Some day or another, when Fort Salisbury becomes a 
 big place, and food supplies are needed, those who 
 have pegged out farms in the Mazoe district will reap 
 a fine profit from their agricultural produce, if I am 
 not much mistaken.
 
 301 
 
 CHAPTER X 
 
 OUR EMBASSY TO THE CHIEF 'MTOKO 
 
 THERE is always a pliarm to us connected with the 
 investigation of a country the name of which conveys 
 nothing to anybody, and which is a blank on the 
 map. This, I think, was one of the chief incentives to 
 us to accept the diplomatic post of presenting a gift 
 of forty pounds' worth of goods from the Chartered 
 Company to the chief 'Mtoko. 
 
 We gathered that 'Mtoko was a powerful chief, 
 dreaded by the natives, whose country lay about 120 
 miles to the north-east of Fort Salisbury; that he 
 ruled over a large and almost unknown district reach- 
 ing on the west to the territories under the influence 
 of the Portuguese satellite Gouveia; and that his 
 father, who had lately died, had entered into a treaty 
 with the Chartered Company which gave them para- 
 mount influence, but that the present chief and his 
 subjects, who were reported to have customs of an 
 exceedingly primitive order, had as yet had no official 
 dealings with the Company. This was about all the 
 information we could gather.
 
 302 EXPLORATION JOURNEYS IN MAST I ON ALAND 
 
 The following is an exact copy of my creden- 
 tials : 
 
 To the Chief Matoko 
 
 The British South Africa Company, Salisbury. 
 September 21, 1891. 
 
 My Friend, Mr. Selous has told Mr. Rhodes, the Big 
 Induna of all white men in this country, all about you, and 
 he has sent his friend Mr. Bent to see you and your people, 
 and to give you some presents from him ; and also to tell you 
 that you are now under the Great White Queen, and that the 
 Portuguese will not trouble you any more. 
 
 You and your people will now live in peace and security. 
 I am, your Friend, 
 
 F. RUTHEKFOORD HARRIS, 
 Secretary. 
 
 We certainly felt somewhat adventurous when we 
 left Fort Salisbury, on September 23, on this journey 
 of uncertain length and uncertain results. We could 
 take hardly any comforts with us except our tent, 
 and the smallest possible allowance of bedclothes, 
 and only just enough food to keep us from starvation 
 for a week, for the donkeys of this country carry 
 very little weight, and the only bearers we could gel 
 were our two faithful Makalangas, Mashanani and 
 Iguzo. These, together with our three white men, 
 who looked after the eleven donkeys, formed our only 
 staff', for the interpreter had not yet come in, and was 
 to be sent after us. The only fixed idea of time that 
 we had was that a steamer was supposed to leave 
 Port Beira for the Cape on November 18, and this at
 
 OUR EMBASSY TO THE CHIEF 'MTOKO 303 
 
 all hazards we had to catch ; the intervening space of 
 time was to us a maze of delightful uncertainty, only 
 to be unravelled as that time went by. 
 
 After a comfortable breakfast at the civilian mess 
 hut, and farewells to our kind friends at Fort 
 Salisbury, my wife, Mr. Swan, and I started on our 
 three horses in pursuit of our donkeys, which had 
 started along the Manica road about an hour before. 
 These we soon caught up, and after a hot dusty ride of 
 about ten miles we pitched our tents about one hun- 
 dred yards from a large Kaffir village on a flat space, 
 hidden away amongst a sea of small granite boulders. 
 Here the women wore pretty chaplets of red and 
 white beads sewn on to snake-skins, and aprons and, 
 necklets gaily decorated with the same ; the chief had 
 a splendid crop of long black hair. Beyond this the 
 village presented nothing fresh to our notice until 
 night fell, when our rest was disturbed for hours by 
 a series of hideous noises : drums were beaten, dogs 
 were barking, men were howling like wild beasts, and 
 when they ceased the women would take up their 
 refrain, guns were periodically let off, and every- 
 thing conceivable was done to render night hideous. 
 On rising next morning and inquiring the cause 
 of this nightmare, we were informed that a death 
 had taken place in the village, and that the inhabi- 
 tants were indulging in their accustomed wailing. 
 I was also told that in these parts they carefully tie 
 up the limbs of a .dead man, his toes and his fingers 
 each separately, in cloths, prior to burial, whereas a
 
 304 EXPLORATION JOURNEYS IN MASHONALAND 
 
 \voman is only tied up in a skin, and her grave is of 
 no account. 
 
 At the village of Karadi we left the Manica road 
 
 TATTOOED WOMEN FROM CHIBl'S, GAMBIDJl'S, AND KUNZl's COUNTRIES 
 
 and entered a very populous district with numerous 
 villages perched on the rocky heights, the inhabitants 
 of which were greatly excited at tlje sight of us, and 
 followed us for miles. This, we learnt, was Musung-
 
 OUR EMBASSY TO TTTE CHIEF 'MTOKO 
 
 305 
 
 aikwa's country. The women here had a distinct 
 tattoo mark of their own namely, the lizard pattern, 
 which we have seen on the dollasses or divining- 
 tablets ] done in dots on their stomachs. Some of the 
 men,, too, have the same device tattooed on them on 
 their chests and backs. This is the third distinctive 
 tattoo mark we have seen in Mashonaland namely, 
 the furrow pattern around Zimbabwe, the dots in 
 squares in Gambidji's country, and here the lizard 
 pattern, all of which are raised marks on the skin 
 made by the insertion of 'some drug. They are 
 evidently connected with some charm, but what the 
 nature of it is I was never able to discover. 
 
 At Musungaikwa's, necessity for the first time made 
 us acquainted with red millet-meal porridge, called 
 respectively sodza and ufa in different parts . of the 
 country. With milk and sugar 
 it is quite palatable but gritty ; 
 the natives like it best very 
 thick, eating it with a stick and 
 dipping it into water before 
 consumption ; they appear al- 
 most to live upon it, and dis- 
 pose of surprising quantities. 
 Much rice is grown about here 
 in the swampy ground, some- 
 times in round holes, sometimes 
 in wide furrows, which are surprisingly straight for 
 Kaffirs, who seem to have the greatest difficulty in 
 
 1 Chap. II. 
 
 WOODEN BOWL FROM 
 MUSUNGAIKWA'S KRAAL
 
 306 EXPLORATION JOURNEYS IN MASHONALAND 
 
 producing a straight line. Their paths, though very 
 accurate in direction, represent to the eye a long 
 wavy line, and they are aggravatingly narrow for a 
 European, who turns his toes out, to walk in, for the 
 Kaffirs always go in single file, and always put their 
 feet down straight. 
 
 The natives about here followed us with bags of 
 bark fibre full of figs of a rich brown colour, which 
 we purchased, and found excellent when they were 
 not inhabited, as was generally the case, by hundreds 
 of little ants. 
 
 At about thirty miles from Fort Salisbury we 
 reached a nest of seven or eight kraals ruled over by 
 a chief called Kunzi. Here we elected to stay and 
 wait for the interpreter, and as he did not join us 
 for two days we had a pleasant time for rest and for 
 studying the inhabitants. Kunzi, the paramount 
 chief of this community, is a young and enterprising 
 individual; he corresponds to the nouveau riche of 
 Kaffirdom, being spoken of as ' a chief of the assegai ' 
 in contradistinction to the old hereditary chiefs around. 
 He came originally from 'Mtigeza's country, got to- 
 gether a band of followers, and won for himself with 
 his assegai the territory he now occupies. To a chief 
 of this description all the youth and prowess of the 
 country flock, hence he had a remarkably fine set of 
 followers, and these he rules with marvellous strictness. 
 We had an example of his power, for we wanted to get 
 bearers from him. He brought the men in person, and 
 would not allow them to go with us until we had
 
 OUR EMBASSY TO THE CHIEF 'MTOKO 307 
 
 paid the stipulated quantity of cloth in advance and 
 deposited it with him. This arrangement did not please 
 me at all, knowing well the tendency paid bearers have 
 to run away, but it was inevitable. The men served 
 us extremely well, accompanied us for a fortnight 
 until we reached the spot arranged upon with the chief, 
 and when I offered them more to go farther they 
 refused, saying that they dare not do so without the 
 consent of their chief. 
 
 Kunzi is an ambitious man, and talks of becoming 
 king of Mashonaland, but as he was driven back during 
 his last attack on his neighbour Mangwendi, and as 
 the Chartered Company may have something to say 
 to it, this eventuality seems at present in the dim 
 future. Kunzi is, however, a man of promise, and if 
 he had been born a little earlier he might have been in 
 a position to resuscitate the fallen glories of the race. 
 
 Outside Kunzi's kraal is a fine iron smelting fur- 
 nace, decorated with the breast and furrow pattern, 
 and with a large quantity of newly made blow-pipes of 
 dried mud, and decorated with a spiral pattern, lying in 
 heaps outside. We watched the process here at our 
 leisure. First they crush the ore obtained from the 
 neighbouring mountains, which has a large quantity 
 of manganese in it, and spread it on the rocks ; the 
 forge is heated with charcoal and kindled by two men 
 with four bellows, each worked by one hand; the 
 nozzles are inserted into the blow-pipes, and the blow- 
 pipes into the charcoal ; they press the bellows with 
 their hands by means of a wooden handle, and work
 
 308 EXPLORATION JOURNEYS IN MASTIOXALAND 
 
 with great vigour, singing and perspiring freely as 
 they work. Around the furnace is a hedge of tall grass, 
 and at night time, when the ore is cool, they remove 
 it from the furnace and afterwards weld it into the 
 required shapes with stone hammers. This time- 
 honoured handicraft interested us much, mentioned 
 as it is by Dos Santos three hundred years ago, and 
 
 MAKALANGA IRON SMKLTING FURNACE 
 
 by the Arabian writers close upon a thousand years 
 ago, as a speciality of the country. 
 
 One of the neighbouring kraals is ruled over by 
 Kunzi's brother Grwadeli, who, in his anxiety to be 
 hospitable, gave us warm beer to drink, which nearly 
 had the effect of an emetic. A rock rises out of the 
 centre of this kraal, where is an induna's grave walled 
 into the rock, with four pots of beer before it, and 
 hedged off by a rope of bark. 
 
 The following morning we watched with some
 
 OUR EMBASSY TO THE CHIEF 'MfOKO 
 
 309 
 
 interest a trader from Fort Salisbury selling goods 
 to the natives. Beads, gunpowder, and salt were 
 the favourite commodities he had to offer, in return 
 for which he rapidly acquired a fine lot of pump- 
 kins, maize, potatoes, and other vegetables ; whilst 
 for blankets and rifles he obtained cattle which I 
 am .sure would bring him in a handsome profit 
 when he reached the capital. We ourselves got a 
 
 GOATSKIN BELLOWS AND BLOW-PIPE FOR IRON SMELTING 
 
 few interesting things at Kunzi's, including a quill 
 with gold in it which the natives had found in the 
 'JSYagowe Eiver, and a dexterously wrought garment 
 for a young lady, about half the size of a freemason's 
 apron ; it is made of bark fibre, with geometrical 
 patterns ot excellent design worked into it, a species 
 of textile with which we were to become better ac- 
 quainted in 'Mtoko's country. Here, too, we saw
 
 310 EXPLORATION JOFRNKYS IN MASIIONALANI) 
 
 sticks set up in the ground with the bark peeled off 
 and bound round the top a sort of fetich, which 
 they call their Maklosi or luck sign. They set these 
 things up whenever they come to a new country ; 
 also, on similar occasions, they kneel before a tree 
 and burn snuff, saying as they do so: 'Muali ! ' (the 
 
 WOMAN'S DRESS OF WOVEN BARK FIBRE 
 
 native name for God) ' we have brought knives, give 
 us meat.' Then they do the same at another tree, ask- 
 ing the same petition for their children. 
 
 A delicious stream for bathing and washing clothes 
 flowed a few yards below our camp, which gave us 
 sufficient employment for what would otherwise have
 
 OUR EMBASSY TO THE CHIEF 'MTOKO 311 
 
 been an idle afternoon. At midnight our interpreter 
 arrived, and the following morning we commenced 
 our journey in real earnest. 
 
 At a village where we halted for a while we were 
 introduced to a young girl, who was shortly to become 
 chief Kunzi's eleventh wife the state wife, to be pre- 
 sented to him by his tribe, whose son will be heir to 
 the chiefdom, to the exclusion of the children by his 
 other purchased wives. This marriage is usually re- 
 commended and seen to by the tribe when the chief 
 is getting on towards middle life ; and the succession 
 in these parts is carried on in this way. She wore 
 round her neck one of the large white whorls made out 
 of the end of shells, which are common amongst the 
 natives, but a specimen of which I tried ineffectually 
 to get. This, I now learnt, is the sign of betrothal, and 
 is transferred to the neck of the baby when born. 
 Men also wear them for love philtres, and hence their 
 reluctance to part with them. 
 
 During this day's march we'passed by a pond dug 
 in a hollow which was in process of drying up. These 
 holes are dug by the natives in the drv season with 
 
 O / v 
 
 the object of catching fish when the swamps dry up ; 
 also for fishing they make use of a thing very like 
 our lobster-pot, which they tie to a fence across a 
 rapid portion of the stream. The love the natives 
 have for salt throughout this saltless country is very 
 marked ; for sugar and lollipops, which we offered 
 them, they have a positive aversion ; anything of a 
 savoury nature pleases them immensely, and their
 
 EXPLORATION JOURNEYS IN MASTIONALAND 
 
 gestures of delight over the scrapings of tins of an- 
 chovy paste were most pleasing to contemplate. Mice, 
 locusts, and caterpillars are their daintiest viands, and 
 if given a lump of salt they will put it straight- 
 way into their mouths and consume it with the 
 greatest complacency. 
 
 We halted that night at the village of Yandoro, 
 still in Kunzi's country, with a solitary rock in its 
 midst, divided into two parts by a narrow split form- 
 ing a gully which is bridged over by trees, so that 
 they can retire to the highest point when the Mata- 
 bele come, and wait there till the impi has departed 
 with their cattle and grain. 
 
 I learnt here a little more concerning the mysteries 
 of hand-clapping and greetings. One of our bearers 
 from Kunzi's kraal, Girandali by name, had relatives 
 here, and I followed him to their hut, the inmates of 
 which were seated solemnly on the floor and began 
 to clap, whereupon Girandali commenced to relate 
 parenthetically the events of his career since they 
 last met ; between each parenthesis the host clapped 
 and said his name. This went on for fully ten 
 minutes, each parenthesis being received with more 
 or less clapping, as it attracted the attention of his 
 hearers. When Girandali had done, there was 
 a general clapping which lasted for some time, 
 and then the formal part of the conversation was 
 over. 
 
 The chief of a neighbouring village, Bochiko by 
 name, here paid us a visit. He is a most curious speci-
 
 OUR EMBASSY TO THE CHIEF 'MTOKO 
 
 318 
 
 of his race, a veritable pigmy only four feet four 
 inches in height. He has lost all his toes in battle and 
 has had one leg broken and never set; he wore a large 
 brass ring with curious patterns on it on his tiny 
 lingers, and brass bracelets on his tiny arms, both, of 
 which we purchased from him. He is said to have 
 five wives and five stalwart children. 
 
 BRACELETS 
 
 We were greatly surprised on rising next morn- 
 ing to learn that my mare, an old ' salted horse,' 
 which we had had with us for six months, and ridden 
 hard all the time, had presented us with a foal during 
 the night unfortunately a dead one. The mare did 
 not seem much the worse for her adventure ; in fact, 
 I personally was the only sufferer, for a probably
 
 814 EXPLORATION JOURNEYS IN MASHON ALAND 
 
 misplaced compassion prompted me to walk instead 
 of ride for the next day's march. 
 
 "We were now passing through a corner of Mang- 
 wendi's country, a chief with whom we were to be- 
 come better acquainted later on. Gaza, one of his 
 chief indunas, has a kraal on an exceedingly high rock 
 by which we passed ; in fact, about here the country 
 is very populous, owing to the rocky nature of the 
 ground and the inaccessible eyries in which the natives 
 can plant their huts. We wondered what the meaning 
 of many pots might be which we saw here on high 
 boulders with stones around and on the top. By 
 inquiry we learnt that they were beehives, equivalent 
 to the bark hives we so constantly saw farther south. 
 There is much ceremony about here at the presenta- 
 tion of beer. At Malozo's kraal the chief handed the 
 pot to one of our bearers, who handed it to the inter- 
 preter, who handed it to me. Their hair, too, is very 
 wildly dressed, being long and tangled, and when it 
 becomes past endurance by reason of the insects col- 
 lected therein, they shave it off and hang it to a tree, 
 revealing to the world their bare and greatly disfigured 
 pates. 
 
 After this we went through a long stretch of 
 almost uninhabited country, very lovely indeed to 
 look upon, richly wooded, with glimpses through 
 the woods of tree-clad heights, with strange finger- 
 shaped rocks appearing out of them as far as the eye 
 could reach into the blue distance. These granite 
 kopjes would be distinctly wearisome were it not for
 
 OUR EMBASSY TO THE CHIEF 'MTOKO 315 
 
 the ever-varying fantastic shapes. The forests them- 
 selves are painfully monotonous ; at one time you are 
 riding through groves of medlars with coarse large 
 leaves, then you come across a stretch of white - 
 flowered sugar-tree (Protea mellifera), which, I think, 
 of all trees is the most aggravating, from the dull 
 monotony of its leaves and generally scraggy appear- 
 ance of its branches. Its flower is very pretty, being 
 like a soft silvery white chrysanthemum, three inches 
 in diameter; it is very attractive to butterflies and 
 pretty sun-beetles, with which the flower is some- 
 times quite covered. About here we passed a curious 
 granite mountain called Mount Jomvga, rising above 
 all the rest like a gigantic silver thimble. Mount 
 Jomvga haunted us for days and days, and we 
 never lost sight of it during the whole of our stay 
 in 'Mtoko's country. 
 
 We were now rapidly approaching 'Mtoko's 
 country, but the nearer we approached our goal 
 the more difficulty we had in obtaining information 
 as to where the chief actually lived. Some said he 
 lived at the village of Lutzi, a few miles across the 
 border, others said he lived about six miles farther 
 on ; Consequently we were somewhat perplexed, 
 and ended by stopping near Lutzi for a while, 
 whilst our interpreter rode on to make further 
 inquiries. 
 
 Amongst other embarrassing things that a son in- 
 herits with the chiefdom are his father's wives. Of 
 course a man is not expected to marry his own
 
 316 EXPLORATION JOURNEYS IN MASHON ALAND 
 
 mother, but his stepmothers are different, especially 
 if, as often happens, they are young and comely. 
 At Lutzi we were told that the new 'Mtoko had 
 
 deposited several 
 of his father's 
 widows, presum- 
 ably the old and 
 ugly ones, whom 
 he did not ad- 
 mire. Certainly 
 some of the 
 customs of this 
 country are ex- 
 ceedingly strange, 
 and we should 
 not have believed 
 them had we not 
 
 WOOUKN PLATTEK FROM LUTZI 
 
 again and agciin 
 asked the same questions from different individuals 
 and always got the same reply. One of these is 
 sufficiently horrible, and I hope the influence of the 
 Chartered Company will soon work for its suppres- 
 sion. If a woman gives birth to twins they are imme- 
 diately destroyed. This they consider an unnatural 
 freak on the part of a woman, and is supposed to 
 indicate famine or some other calamity. In this 
 custom they differ essentially from their Matabele 
 neighbours, where Lobengula, like our Queen, honours 
 a prolific mother with a special gift. In 'Mtoko's 
 country the unfortunate twins are put into one of
 
 their big pots, with a stone on the top, and left to 
 their fate. 
 
 In their marauding transactions there is a curious 
 code of honour amongst them. Suppose a woman to 
 be stolen from a tribe, the injured individuals lie in 
 wait for the oxen of the thieves, and when captured 
 take them to the chief, who allots them as follows : 
 1. One is slaughtered for general consumption and 
 joviality. 2. The rightful owner of the stolen woman 
 is next indemnified. 3. The rest of the tribe are 
 questioned as to whether they have any grievance to 
 be rectified. 4. If there are any oxen over they are 
 scrupulously returned to their owners. Their code of 
 morality is far below the standard amongst the Zulus 
 in Matabeleland. 
 
 Many of the customs have a curious Eastern tinge ; 
 for example, hired labour is unknown, and if a man 
 wants assistance in his fields he brews a quantity of 
 beer, bids his neighbours come, and the better the 
 beer the more labourers he will get. This custom is 
 still common in Asia Minor and the East, where wine 
 is the substitute for beer. 
 
 Lutzi did not interest us much ; it is a scattered 
 and poor-looking kraal on a bleak hill, with large 
 stone semicircles, where the men of the village can sit 
 and smoke sheltered from the wind ; so on hearing 
 that the 'Mtoko's kraal was really about six miles off, 
 we set out for it about ten o'clock on the following 
 morning. 
 
 There is much that is different in this country 
 
 Y
 
 318 EXPLORATION JOURNEYS IN MASHONALAND 
 
 from what we had seen elsewhere in Mashonaland, 
 enough almost to point to a difference of race ; the 
 language, too, we found so different that we could 
 understand but little of it ourselves, though the 
 ordinary Makalanga terms for commodities such as 
 mazai for eggs, makaka for milk, &c., were still in 
 vogue. Probably the different circumstances of life 
 will account for the difference in character. The 
 people do not live in kraals huddled together on the 
 top of rocks, but in small scattered kraals of from six 
 to twenty huts dotted all over the country, where 
 agriculture may take them, arguing a degree of 
 prosperity and security to property which we had 
 not seen elsewhere in Mashonaland. In these little 
 kraals there is generally a hut raised on poles in the 
 midst, which acts as a kind of watch-tower. They 
 told us that the Matabele never penetrate as far as 
 this, and that the only enemy they fear is the Portu- 
 guese half-caste Gouveia, whose territory lies over 
 the mountains to the east ; but his attacks, were suc- 
 cessfully repulsed by the old 'Mtoko, who had thereby 
 established such a reputation for valour that none of 
 his neighbours .durst interfere with him. 
 
 The result of this condition of affairs was that 
 in 'Mtoko's country we saw more cattle than we had 
 seen elsewhere, but all of the same calibre. The 
 characteristic of all domestic animals in Mashonaland 
 is their small size. The cows are less than our 
 Guernsey breed, and give very little milk ; the sheep 
 and goats are diminutive and unhealthy looking ; the
 
 OUR EMBASSY TO THE CHIEF 'MTOKO 319 
 
 hens are ridiculous little things, and their eggs not 
 much bigger than pigeons' eggs at home. As for the 
 dogs, they are the most contemptible specimens 
 of the canine race I have ever seen in any of my 
 wanderings. This does not look well for the pro- 
 spects of the agriculturists, but probably the dimi- 
 nution in physique amongst the Mashonaland cattle 
 is rather due to the coarse grass and swampy land 
 and the want of proper care than to any other 
 cause. 
 
 Up a narrowing valley, with a gorge or Hoof at 
 the end of it, under the shadow of a rocky mountain, 
 and almost hidden by a dense mass of timber, lies 
 'Mtoko's kraal, also, after the fashion of the country, 
 a small one. In our innocence we advanced right 
 up to the kraal ; and despite the expostulation of an 
 angry crowd of natives, who screamed and yeUed at 
 us, we commenced to pitch our tents close by the 
 shady trees in a spot which looked very inviting for 
 a few days' rest. Suddenly it dawned upon us that we 
 had been guilty of some breach of savage etiquette, 
 so I immediately despatched our interpreter to see 
 the chief, with a portion of the present as a foretaste 
 of better things to come. We seated ourselves rather 
 disconsolately beneath the trees awaiting his return, 
 watching the inhabitants, who swarmed around us. 
 
 The women of 'Mtoko's country are quite the 
 most decent of their sex that we had seen since 
 entering Mashonaland. Out of bark fibre they weave 
 for themselves quite massive dresses, two yards long 
 
 Y2
 
 320 EXPLORATION JOURNEYS IN MASHON ALAND 
 
 and one yard wide, which they decorate with pretty 
 raised geometric patterns like one sees on old- 
 fashioned ' Marsella ' quilts at home ; these they gird 
 round their loins and fasten on with a girdle of bark 
 
 netting, and consequently 
 they present an air of de- 
 cency to which their sisters 
 in other parts of this country 
 are strangers, with their tiny 
 leather aprons scarce worthy 
 of the name of clothing. Nevertheless, when in their 
 huts the women of this country take off this heavy 
 and somewhat awkward garment, and one day, 
 having crawled into a hut, I was somewhat startled 
 to find myself in the presence of two dusky ladies 
 dressed like Eve in the Garden of Eden. Most of the 
 
 EARRING 
 
 STUD FOR THE 
 LIP 
 
 BATTLE-AXE 
 
 people about here have their upper and lower lips 
 bored, and insert in them either a nail-like object, 
 somewhat after the fashion of the Nubians, or a bead 
 or ring, or a plain bit of stick. Their front teeth of 
 both upper and lower jaws are filed, an ancient
 
 OUR EMBASSY TO THE CHIEF 'MTOKO 321 
 
 custom to which both Dos Santos and El Masoudi, 
 the Arabian historian, allude. There is evidently a 
 strong Zambesi influence in 'Mtoko's country ; their 
 battle-axes, their assegais, and their powder-horns 
 are far more elaborately carved and decorated with 
 brass wire than those we had seen farther south, and 
 bear a close resemblance to those which the tribes on 
 the Zambesi produce. In their hair they wear combs 
 
 POWDER-HORN 
 
 inlaid with different-coloured straws, and their brace- 
 lets also are very elaborate. 
 
 Our emissary came back with a long face. The 
 'Mtoko, despite the offering we had sent him, was 
 indignant at our invasion of his privacy ; in fact, to 
 avoid seeing a white induna without taking counsel 
 with his head men, he had been obliged to take refuge 
 in a cave. His father, he said, would not allow a 
 white man to encamp within eight miles of his kraal. 
 This happened to Mr. Selous, the only white man who
 
 322 EXPLORATION JOURNEYS IN M ASIK >XA LAND 
 
 had as yet visited the country in an official capacity, 
 when he came to get the old 'M toko to sign the treaty 
 a few months before. However, he said he would 
 consent to our pitching our tents at a spot indicated 
 about a mile away, and would come and visit us and 
 receive the rest of his gifts on the morrow. 
 
 A COLLECTION OF COMBS 
 
 Somewhat crestfallen and highly indignant at our 
 treatment, we packed up our things again and hurried 
 off as fast as we could, so that we might get our tents 
 pitched before night came on. 
 
 The following day was advancing rapidly, and 
 still no signs of 'Mtoko's visit. We were much an- 
 noyed at the loss of time and the supposed insult, FO
 
 OUR EMBASSY TO THE CHIEF 'MTOKO 323 
 
 we collected our presents together, and determined 
 to take them and get them given, come what might. 
 We set off and marched behind the gift, which was 
 carried on the heads of many bearers. We had scarcely 
 gone two hundred yards on our way, when men came 
 running to us, announcing the advent of his majesty ; 
 so we went back again to prepare our rugs for the 
 reception, and sat in state. 
 
 Through the trees we saw him coming, with a 
 following of about fifty men armed with battle-axes 
 and assegais. About two hundred yards from our 
 camp they all seated themselves, and held a council 
 which we thought would never end. The result of 
 this was an envoy sent to state it as the monarch's 
 opinion that the white lady had bewitched the pre- 
 sents, for she had been seen going to a stream and 
 sprinkling the things with water which she had fetched 
 from thence ; that he would nevertheless graciously 
 receive the presents, but that he would not keep 
 them but give them at once to his uncle. Whilst we 
 were making up our minds whether we should be 
 annoyed or amused at this message, the chief and his 
 men moved one hundred yards nearer to us, so we 
 determined to await the progress of events. Here 
 again they stopped for another indaba. This time 
 the message, that the chief would like us to send 
 him the presents to the spot where he was, was ac- 
 companied by a present to us of a kid and twenty 
 pounds of meal. This somewhat pacified us. Never- 
 theless we sent a message back that if the chief wished
 
 324 EXPLORATION JOURNEYS IN MASHONALAND 
 
 for the things he must come and fetch them in 
 person. To the indunas who brought the message 
 we gave a few articles for themselves. 
 
 o 
 
 The result of this last message was instantaneous. 
 His majesty came forthwith, but he refused to sit on 
 the rug prepared for him. He refused to shake 
 hands, nay, even look at the white lady, and di-ring 
 the whole of the interview he trembled so violently, 
 and looked so nervous, that we felt quite sorry for 
 him. 
 
 'Mtoko is a fine specimen of his race, lithe and 
 supple of limb, but more like a timid wild animal 
 than a man. As he sat before us he nervously peeled 
 a sweet potato with his battle-axe, and looked ill at 
 ease. Gradually, as the presents came out, his sinister 
 face relaxed, and in spite of himself became wreathed 
 with smiles. Spread out before him was an entire 
 uniform of the Cape Yeomanry, helmet and all, with 
 two horsehair plumes. Then there were knives, and 
 looking-glasses, and handkerchiefs, and shirts, and 
 beads, and yards of limbo ; wealth, doubtless, of 
 which he had scarce dreamt, was now his. The im- 
 pression made on him was great. He was overcome 
 with gratitude, and after stepping aside for a few 
 moments' talk with his head men, he told us that, as 
 a return present, a whole live bullock should be ours. 
 Permission was given to us to come and encamp 
 under his kraal if we liked. His apologies were 
 profuse, and he even ventured to touch the white 
 lady's hand ; and thus ended this strange interview.
 
 OUR EMBASSY TO THE CHIEF 'MTOKO 325 
 
 Not wishing to uproot ourselves again, we thanked 
 him for his offer, and said we preferred to remain 
 where we were, but would come up and visit him 
 on the morrow. 
 
 Afterwards we learnt the cause of all 'Mtoko's 
 nervousness. His father had died shortly after Mr. 
 Selous's visit. The common belief was that he had 
 been bewitched ; naturally he thought that the white 
 lady had been sent purposely to cast a glamour over 
 him. He had been told how these white men are 
 ruled over by a woman, and he thought Queen Victoria 
 had sent a humble representative of her sex to bring 
 about the same state of affairs in his country. Her 
 name was of course asked at the interview, ^.nd feel- 
 ing the flatness with which her English appellative 
 would be received, our interpreter promptly called 
 beer 'Msinyate, 'the Home of the Buffaloes,' to which 
 high-sounding name she answered for the rest of her 
 st^v in 'Mtoko's country. 
 
 The day was far spent when the chief left us, and 
 \ve took a stroll in the cool of the evening to a tiny 
 -"aal, consisting only of three huts, about half a mile 
 from our camp. There was an air of prosperity 
 about the place which pleased us. The huts are 
 better built than elsewhere, and have porches. Their 
 granaries are wattled, and have very well thatched 
 roofs, and our reception was most cordial. They 
 spread mats for us to sit on. They brought us 
 monkey-nuts, tamarind, and other vegetables to eat, 
 and seemed to think themselves greatly honoured
 
 326 EXPLORATION JOURNEYS IN MASHON ALAND 
 
 by a visit from the white indunas who had brought 
 their chief such a fine present. 
 
 Next morning we walked up to visit 'Mtoko in his 
 kraal. The twenty huts which compose it are girt 
 around with a strong palisade. Each hut is large, 
 and has a porch. 'Mtoko and his head men were 
 seated on a rock in the midst of it with a wood fire 
 for lighting their pipes. One of the indunas had just 
 decorated his hair in splendid fashion, tying up his 
 black tufts with beads, and covering the whole with a 
 thick coating of grease, which soaked into his matted 
 hair before our eyes under the strong influence of the 
 sun. Into this circle we were all invited, for the 
 dread of the white lady seemed to have passed away. 
 She presented the monarch with some English needles, 
 and his delight in receiving these treasures exceeded 
 even that which he showed on receipt of the Chartered 
 Company's gifts, for in 'Mtokoland they are accustomed 
 to use strong sharp blades of grass for needles, on 
 which ours were a distinct improvement. 
 
 Our object to-day was to inquire into the politics 
 of the country, and to verify the strange stories we 
 had heard about the priest of the lion god, the Mon- 
 doro, who is reported to be even stronger than the 
 chief. We wanted to learn more concerning the cult 
 of the lion, and where the Zimbabwe of 'Mtokoland 
 was, where the annual sacrifices take place to the 
 king of beasts. 
 
 The question was a delicate one, and had to be 
 tenderly approached, knowing as we did by this time
 
 OUR EMBASSY TO THE CHIEF 'MTOKO 327 
 
 the extreme reluctance of the Kaffirs to disclose to 
 white men the secrets of their religion. A man called 
 Benoula seemed to take the lead in everything. The 
 'Mtoko hardly spoke, and looked very uncomfortable 
 whilst the catechising was going on. The results of 
 our investigations were vague. The Mondoro, or lion 
 priest, was uncle to the chief, and he resided at Lutzi, 
 the village by which we had passed. The old 'Mtoko 
 on his death-mat had left his son and heir somehow 
 or another in tutelage to this mysterious priest-uncle 
 of his. When asked where the Zimbabwe was, he 
 replied reluctantly : ' The Mondoro may tell you if he 
 likes ; I dare not.' Finally, after ' the Home of the 
 Buffaloes' ' hair had been taken down by his majesty's 
 special request, we made arrangements for Benoula 
 to accompany us to Lutzi on the morrow and intro- 
 duce us to the priest, whom we had been so near 
 without knowing it when we first entered the country. 
 
 We took a look round the kraal before taking our 
 leave. The cattle are all housed in the centre of it. 
 There was the pigeon-cote, a feature in all the villages 
 ; bout here, consisting of a mud box with holes, raised 
 on poles. Hard by dwelt a hideous black sow with 
 a litter of young ones in a grass sty. There was a 
 hut for the calves and a hut for the goats, a scene 
 of bucolic prosperity which we had come across 
 nowhere else in Mashonaland. 
 
 The following morning, after breakfast, we set off 
 for Lutzi once more, armed with presents for the 
 lion priest, and exceedingly curious about him.
 
 328 EXPLORATION JOURNEYS IN MASHON ALAND 
 
 Benoula was there before us, and everyone was ex- 
 pecting our arrival. Presently we were ushered into 
 a large but rather dilapidated hut, where sat a 
 venerable-looking old man, who received us and our 
 presents with great cordiality. We seated ourselves 
 on the ground, forming a curious assemblage : the 
 Mondoro and his son, 'Mkateo, his 
 enormously fat daughter Tourla, 
 Benoula, and one or two indunas, 
 our three selves, and our interpreter. 
 ' I am the 'Mtoko,' was almost the 
 first thing the old man said, explain- 
 ing how he considered himself the 
 rightful heir to the chiefdom. 'Next 
 year, when the crops are gathered 
 in, I shall return to the kraal where 
 my brother died, and assume the 
 command of the country.' We soon 
 saw the state of things, which ex- 
 plained many points that had pre- 
 viously been mysterious. 'Mtoko- 
 land was threatened with a grave 
 political quarrel, and all the elements of civil war 
 were present. The elders of the country all re- 
 cognise the Mondoro as their chief ; whilst younger 
 men, with everything to gain and little to lose, affect 
 to follow the chief whose kraal we had visited, and 
 whom they speak of as Bedapera at Lutzi, his own 
 name, as distinguished from the dynastic name of 
 'Mtoko. 
 
 WOODEN SPOON. 
 LUTZI
 
 OUR EMBASSY TO THE CHIEF 'MTOKO 329 
 
 In his position as religious head of the com- 
 munity lies the Mondoro's strength. 'Here is the 
 Zimbabwe of our land, here the annual sacrifice to 
 the Maklosi of our ancestors now takes place ; ' that 
 is to say, wherever the chief lives, and wherever the 
 annual sacrifice takes place, there is the Zimbabwe 
 of the chiefdom. 
 
 Then we questioned him about the lion god, and 
 he gave us to understand that the Mondoro or lion 
 god of 'Mtoko's country is a sort of spiritual lion 
 which only appears in time of danger, and fights for 
 the men of 'Mtoko ; all good men of the tribe, when 
 they die, pass into the lion form and reappear to fight 
 for their friends. It is quite clear that these savages 
 entertain a firm belief in an after-life and a spiritual 
 world, and worship their ancestors as spiritual inter- 
 -^ssors between them and the vague Muali or God 
 who lives in Heaven. 
 
 The lion of 'Mtoko is the totem of the tribe. We 
 asked the old priest if we should get into trouble 
 if we shot a lion whilst in his country. ' If a lion 
 attacks you,' he replied, 'you may shoot it, for it 
 could not be one of ours ; our lions will do the white 
 man no harm, for they are our friends.' There was 
 a charming amount of dignity and sophistry about 
 the old Mondoro. We felt that he was a far better 
 man to rule the country than his nervous, superstitious 
 nephew. Once a year this old Mondoro (the name 
 Mondoro is common in this country both to the 
 sacred lions and the priest) sacrifices a bullock and a
 
 330 EXPLORATION JOURNEYS IN MASHONALAND 
 
 goat to the Maklosi or luck spirit of their ancestors. 
 Formerly this ceremony took place at the residence of 
 the old chief, and now here at Lutzi ; much beer is 
 drunk on the occasion, and it takes place in February, 
 about the same time as the Matabele war-dance. 
 
 There is much more of the old spirit of the race 
 about the Mondoro. He gave us the names of three 
 generations of 'Mtokos who had ruled here before 
 his brother a rare instance of pedigree in this 
 country ; but the royal residence, Lutzi, is a miser- 
 able place, consisting of two little kraals crowning 
 the two summits of a bare granite hill. One tree of 
 sickly growth stood there, decorated, for what reason I 
 could not discover, with part of a woman's bark dress, 
 grass roots, hair, and other oddments. Doubtless 
 they were luck signs too, but we could gain no in- 
 formation on this point. Evidence of festivities was 
 also present in the shape of drums and long chains 
 of grass cases for beads, which they hang round their 
 calves to rattle at the dances. On a hill opposite 
 stood a single hut, where an outlaw had lived till 
 quite recently, they told us. 
 
 Before we took our leave the Mondoro presented 
 us with a goat, regretting that, owing to the bad times, 
 he could not give us a handsomer present. We now 
 understood several points which had been a mystery 
 to us before the constant and rather deferential way 
 in which the 'Mtoko had spoken of his uncle, and the 
 reason why, in the first instance, our guides had told 
 us that the 'Mtoko dwelt at Lutzi. Also we now
 
 OUR EMBASSY TO THE CHIEF 'MTOKO 331 
 
 seemed thoroughly to grasp the strange cult of the 
 lion god, a cult probably carrying us back to the far- 
 distant ages, when the Arabian tribes invented the 
 system of totems, and called the stars by their 
 names. 1 
 
 Monteiro and Gamitto, two Portuguese travellers, 
 who went to Cazembe in 1831-32, throw some light 
 on the worship of the lion. They relate how the 
 negroes near the Zambesi, ' being Munyaes, subjects 
 of Monomatapa, revere royal lions of great corpulence 
 as containing the souls of their ancestors. When the 
 Munyaes discover the lions eating their prey, they go 
 on their knees at a distance, and creep, clapping their 
 hands and begging them with humility to remember 
 their slaves, who are hungry, and that when they 
 were men they were always generous ; so that the 
 lions may retire and the negroes profit by what they 
 leave behind.' This is again another link connecting 
 these people with the Zambesi and lands farther north. 
 We were also told a story of how, during the old 
 'Mtokos' struggles with the Portuguese, lions had been 
 seen to attack the enemy, whilst they left the natives 
 alone. Doubtless a faith of this kind is very con- 
 ducive to valour, and may account for the superiority 
 of the men of 'Mtoko over their neighbours. 
 
 The two above-quoted Portuguese travellers 
 mention many Zimbabwes on their route northwards 
 to Cazembe, and in another part of their work they 
 often make mention of the Monomatapa, especially 
 
 1 Kremer, AJcademie der Wissenschaft.
 
 332 EXPLORATION JOURNEYS IN MASHONALAND 
 
 the Monomatapa of Chidima, whom they speak of as 
 ' a much decayed person, but still respectable.' His 
 territory commences at Tete and goes on to Zumbo, 
 4 and when one dies all make civil war, until one 
 
 gets possession, and 
 sends to the governor 
 of Tete to confirm his 
 title.' 
 
 From what I can 
 make out of the older 
 Portuguese accounts, the 
 district of Chidima was 
 formerly in the moun- 
 tains to the north of 
 'Mtoko's. This was the 
 district where the famous 
 silver mines were sup- 
 posed to be, in searching 
 for which several Portu- 
 guese expeditions came 
 to grief. In fact, it 
 would appear that 
 'Mtoko, Mangwendi, 
 
 Makoni, and the chiefs in this part of the country 
 are the modern representatives of the broken-up 
 Monomatapa empire, who, fortunate in the posses- 
 sion of a rugged and mountainous country, escaped 
 the visitation of the Zulu hordes, who on their way 
 southwards probably passed by the more open high 
 plateau of Mashonaland, 
 
 BUSHMAN DRAWING NEAR 
 'MTOKO'S KRAAL
 
 OUR EMBASSY TO THE CHIEF 'MTOKO 
 
 333 
 
 Next morning, whilst we were packing for our 
 start from 'Mtoko's, I was informed of the existence of 
 some Bushman drawings under an overhanging rock 
 
 BUSHMAN DRAWING NEAR 'MTOKO'S KRAAL 
 
 about half a mile from our camp. I hurried thither 
 and took some hasty sketches of them. The rock is 
 
 BUSHMAN DRAWING NEAR 'MTOKO'S KRAAL 
 
 literally covered with these drawings in colours of 
 red, yellow, and black, which had evidently eaten 
 into the granite, so that the figures are preserved to 
 
 Z
 
 334 EXPLORATION JOURNEYS IN MASHONALAND 
 
 us. They represent all sorts of wild animals such 
 as elephants, kudus, and cynocephalous apes ; these 
 are wonderfully well executed ; the figures of warriors 
 with poised spears and quivers of arrows are, how- 
 ever, grotesque. The most curious fact about them 
 is finding these drawings so far north, and a close 
 examination of this district will probably bring to 
 light many more. The people who made these 
 drawings inhabited all this district and down into 
 Manicaland. Specimens, too, are found near Fort 
 Salisbury; oddly enough, during our wanderings 
 near Zimbabwe and the Sabi, we never saw any or 
 heard of their existence. 
 
 After a ride of eight miles we reached the kraal 
 of Kalimazondo, another son of the late 'Mtoko. It is 
 just a circular collection of wattled huts, all joined 
 together by a stockade. We alighted for a while here 
 and sat in a hut, with a view to putting some leading 
 questions to the chief concerning the state of the 
 country. He told us that, in his opinion, his uncle the 
 Mondoro was the rightful heir to the chiefdom, for 
 his father, the old 'Mtoko, had wished it, but that his 
 brother Bedapera had said : ' I am a man, I wish to be 
 chief.' All the old indunas and the head men of the 
 country were on the Mondoro's side, and he had little 
 doubt but that he would succeed in establishing his 
 claim. 
 
 When approached on the subject of religion, 
 Kalimazondo grew vague and uncommunicative. We 
 let him know that we had seen the Mondoro, and knew
 
 OUR EMBASSY 1?0 ftfE CHIEF 'MTOKO 335 
 
 a great deal. To all this he replied : ' I dare not tell 
 you anything, or I should become deaf. I like my gun, 
 and if I was to tell you anything it would be taken 
 away, and I should be no man.' Kalimazondo is a 
 cunning man in his generation, and we saw that we 
 should learn no more about this strange and primitive 
 community than it had pleased the priest of the lion 
 god to tell us. 
 
 Close to Kaliinazoudo's kraal we passed the re- 
 mains of the hedges or skerms which Mr. Selous and 
 his followers had erected to protect their camp 
 when on their visit to the old 'Mtoko, and we con- 
 gratulated ourselves that it had not been our fate to 
 be driven thus far from headquarters. 
 
 Next day we rode through an uninteresting 
 waterless country, and encamped for the night by 
 a stream which formed the southern border of 
 'Mtoko's country.
 
 336 EXPLORATION JOURNEYS IN MASHONALAND 
 
 CHAPTER XI 
 
 THE RUINED CITIES IN MANQWENDPS, CHIPUNZA'S, 
 AND MAKONPS COUNTRIES 
 
 WE were now once more in the country .of Mang- 
 wendi, a chief of considerable power, so nearly equal 
 to 'Mtoko, they told me, that the two neighbours, 
 like well-matched dogs, growl but do not come to 
 close quarters. 
 
 The noticeable characteristic of this part of the 
 country and all the way down to Manicaland is the 
 number of ruined fortified kraals which one comes 
 across, culminating, as if to a central head, at Chi- 
 punza's. These spots have been long deserted and are 
 now overgrown with jungle. We visited one of these 
 just after entering Mangwendi's territories ; there is 
 something about them which recalls the Great Zim- 
 babwe the triple line of fortifications, the entrances 
 slightly rounded ; but then the stonework is uneven, 
 the walls being built of shapeless stones, roughly put 
 together with mortar. Here we see none of the even 
 courses, the massive workmanship, and the evidences 
 of years of toil displayed in the more ancient ruirs ;
 
 THE RUINED CITIES TO THE EAST 337 
 
 the walls are low, narrow, and uneven. Are we to 
 suppose an intermediate race between the inhabitants 
 of Zimbabwe and the present race, who built these 
 ruins ? or are we to imagine them to be the work of 
 the Makalangas themselves in the more flourishing 
 days of the Monomatapa rule? I am decidedly 
 myself of the latter opinion. No one who had care- 
 fully studied the Great Zimbabwe ruins could for a 
 moment suppose them to be the work of the same 
 people ; yet they are just the sort of buildings an un- 
 civilised race would produce, who took as their copy 
 the gigantic ruins they found in their midst. For the 
 next few weeks we were constantly coming across these 
 ruins, and the study of them interested us much. 
 
 Mount Masunsgwe was a conspicuous landmark 
 for us for several days about here. It is a massive 
 granite kopje, placed as a sort of spur to the range 
 of hills which surrounds 'Mtoko's country. It is also 
 covered with similar ruined stone walls belonging to 
 a considerable town long since abandoned. The next 
 day we crossed a stream near a village, called the 
 Inyagurukwe, where the natives were busily engaged 
 in washing the alluvial soil in search of gold. We 
 halted for the night by another stream, under the 
 impression that Mangwendi's was only about four 
 miles off, and that an easy day was in store for us. 
 But the fates willed otherwise. Shortly after passing a 
 large village, where the inhabitants were more than 
 usually importunate to see my wife's hair, screaming 
 ' Voudzi ! voudzi ! ' Hair ! hair ! as they scampered
 
 338 EXPLORATION JOURNEYS TN MASHONALANT1 
 
 by our side until she gratified their curiosity, we all 
 lost our way in an intricate maze of Kaffir paths. Our 
 interpreter was ahead and took one way ; my wife and 
 I on horseback, in attempting to follow him, took 
 another ; Mr. Swan on foot took another ; and what 
 happened to the men with the donkeys we never knew, 
 for they did not reach Mangwendi's till late in the after- 
 
 
 MANGWENDI'S KRAAL 
 
 noon, complaining bitterly of their wanderings. We 
 thought we were making straight for our goal, when, 
 lo and behold ! we found ourselves at the top of a hill 
 near one of the deserted towns, tenanted only by a tribe 
 of baboons. Our position was critical we did not 
 know which way to turn, when luckily we espied two 
 little Kaffir boys, who guided us to Mangwendi's ; and.
 
 THE RUINED CITIES TO THE EAST 339 
 
 worn out with our long hot ride, we made a frugal 
 meal by the side of a stream before ascending to the 
 kraal. 
 
 Mangwendi's kraal is a large one, and situated 
 curiously on the top of a lofty ridge. On turning tc 
 a Portuguese writer, Antonio Bocarro, who gives, in 
 his thirteenth decade of his chronicle of India, an 
 interesting account of the empire of Monomatapa, he 
 says : The ' Monomatapa are of the Mocaranga race, a 
 free race who do not have defensive arms, nor for- 
 tresses, nor surrounded cities.' This seems at first 
 sight rather against the theory that the Monomatapa 
 erected these hill fortresses, but then we must bear 
 in mind that the Portuguese penetrated but little 
 into these districts ; and, furthermore, we found at 
 Chipunza's kraal, a few days' journey off, the natives 
 actually constructing similar walls around their chief 
 kraal, evidently a heritage of stone building retained 
 by them from some higher form of civilisation. 
 
 Bocarro gives us further information concerning 
 the Monomatapa. He enumerates the chief officers 
 of the kingdom, and amongst others he mentions 
 ' Manguendi ' as the chief wizard, or witch-doctor ; 
 he also mentions 'Makoni, king of Maungo,' as a 
 vassal of the Monomatapa ; and on inquiry at Makoni's 
 we learnt that his country is still called Unga, and the 
 tribal name is Maunga, just as Mangwendi's is called 
 Noia and the tribe Manoia. Furthermore, he men- 
 tions one Chiburga as the majordomo of a large town 
 where the chief's wives were kept, probably the lofty
 
 340 EXPLORATION .TOURNEYS IN MARttONALAND 
 
 hill we visited near the Sabi. 1 Thus Bocarro furnishes 
 us with almost positive proof that the same people 
 dwell here now as dwelt here under the rule of the 
 Monomatapa, the only difference being that the 
 Mocaranga race has split up into numerous branches. 
 Over two of these Mangwendi and Makoni still ex- 
 ercise sway, still retaining their old dynastic names, 
 and still inhabiting what once was the heart of the 
 Monomatapa country. For these reasons I feel pretty 
 confident in asserting that the series of ruined cities 
 amongst which we had now entered is what remains 
 to us of the once powerful chiefdom of Monomatapa. 
 In Mangwendi's country, as in 'Mtoko's, the 
 great worship is sacrificing to ancestors, called here 
 Bondoro, a name remarkably like the lion god 
 Mondoro. The Bondoro are supposed to intercede 
 for them with Muali, or God, and to get for them 
 long life and prosperity. In Mangwendi's country, 
 however, it is the head of each family who performs 
 the sacrifice, with the help of a man called Nanza, 
 the witch-doctor, one of the chief's family, but by no 
 means having the same power as the Mondoro in 
 'Mtoko's country. They go to the ruined town which 
 we had accidentally visited, where probably the tribo 
 lived in former days. Here the bullock or goat is 
 sacrificed, everyone present is sprinkled with the 
 blood, and they put out portions of the meat, together 
 with some beer, for the consumption of the Bondoro, 
 and eat the rest themselves. 
 
 1 Chap. VIII.
 
 TTTR TJTTTNED CITIES TO THE EAST 341 
 
 On the anniversary of the death of the last 
 Mangwendi they assemble from all the country round 
 and hold a great feast in honour of the late chief, 
 at which the present chief conducts the sacrifice. 
 Dos Santos, in his ' De Asia,' describes almost the 
 same thing- as taking place amongst the Mocarangas 
 in his day : ' Obsequies are made every year 
 to defunct kings ; every year, in the month of 
 September, when the first moon appears, the king 
 makes grand obsequies for his predecessors, who are 
 all buried there on a high rock where he lives, called 
 Zimbaohe.' This hill-set village, where the people of 
 Mangwendi now sacrifice, is still called by them their 
 Zimbabwe. Dos Santos describes the eating, drink- 
 ing, and dancing just as it might be done now. 
 
 Another curious custom to which Dos Santos 
 also alludes is continued amongst them to-day. At 
 Mangwendi's, during the ploughing season, they only 
 work for five consecutive days ; they observe the 
 sixth, and call it Muali's day, and rest in their huts 
 and drink beer. The chief always announces this 
 day of rest publicly to his tribe. Dos Santos gives the 
 following account of it i * There are days on which 
 they are not to work, appointed by the king, unknown 
 to them, when they make feasts, and they call those 
 days Mozimos, or the days of the holy who. are 
 already dead.' The term Mozimo for the spirits of 
 ancestors is still used in many parts of the country, 
 and has been compared with the term molimo, used 
 by the Bechuana for the Supreme Being. Alvarez
 
 342 EXPLORATION JOURNEYS IN MASHONALAND 
 
 mentions the muzimo as the god of the Monomatapa, 
 and Gravenbroek (A.D. 1695) also states: 'Divinita- 
 tem aliquam Messimo dictam in lucis summo cultu 
 venerantur.' This day of rest is observed during the 
 ploughing season only ; it may possibly be of Semite 
 origin, but more probably has been suggested by the 
 obvious necessity and advantage of intervening days 
 of rest during a period of hard work. 
 
 Mangwendi's kraal is a very fine one, quite a long 
 climb from the spot where we were encamped. It is 
 surrounded by palisades, and at the entrance is a tree 
 filled with trophies of the chase, the antlers of many 
 deer, and the skins of many wild beasts, which pre- 
 sent quite an imposing appearance. The chief was 
 seated on a rock outside, chatting with his indunas, 
 when we arrived. He took us into the village and had 
 beer fetched for our delectation. He is an extremely 
 courteous, gentlemanly man, and seems most friendly 
 to the white men who come in his way ; and as his 
 kraal is not very far from the new road into Manica- 
 land, and as this district is very populous, he is con- 
 stantly visited by traders and others. 
 
 Mangwendi has ten wives, and two young girls, 
 whom he has bought but not yet married, and his 
 family consists of ten sons and ten daughters, one of 
 whom, a bright-looking girl of about fifteen, came 
 down to our camp to sell us meal and beer. Unfortu- 
 nately we could get little else, for the traders had 
 bought up all the available provisions, and from this 
 point until we reached Umtali we suffered more fron}
 
 THE RUINED CITIES TO THE EAST 343 
 
 starvation than during any part of our journey ings in 
 Mashonaland. 'Mtoko's bullock was done ; we could 
 get no meat at any of the kraals, or game along our 
 road ; our coffee, sugar, and jams were all done, and 
 our meals, with rare exceptions, reduced themselves 
 to millet-meal porridge, rice, and tea, none of which 
 were very palatable without the ingredients of milk 
 and sugar ; and the provoking thing about Kaffir meal 
 is that it will not bind to make bread, so that for 
 the staff of life cold rice made into a shape was our 
 only substitute. We generally kept our pockets full of 
 the ground-nuts (arac/tis), commonly called ' monkey- 
 nuts,' which are excellent when roasted in the embers, 
 and capital assistants in warding off hunger. 
 
 On leaving Mangwendi's we had regretfully to part 
 with our bearers, who had accompanied us all the 
 way from Kunzi's, and engage fresh ones in their 
 place. One of these, to our surprise, chose to take his 
 wife with him, but as she had to carry her baby on 
 her back and food for herself and her husband, she, 
 poor thing, was so done up after our first day's march 
 of seventeen miles, that her husband sent her back 
 again. 
 
 Our first camp after leaving Mangwendi's was at a 
 very interesting spot an isolated granite kopje called 
 Nyanger, rising about two hundred feet above the 
 surrounding plain. It was entirely covered with old 
 walls, irregular in shape, and similar to those above 
 mentioned, and evidently in former years a place of 
 great strength. It Jiad been long abandoned, for
 
 344 EXPLORATION JOURNEYS IN MASHONALAND 
 
 there were no signs of habitation thereon, and the 
 approaches were full of debris. To the north-east 
 of this kopje is a very curious grotto, or domed 
 cave, entirely covered with Bushman drawings. A 
 kudu and a buffalo are excellently drawn, almost 
 worthy of a Landseer, and in their drawings one can 
 distinctly trace three different periods of execution : 
 (1) Crude and now faint representations of unknown 
 forms of animal life. (2) Deeper in colour, and 
 admirably executed, partly on the top of the latter, 
 are the animals of the best period of this art in red 
 and yellow. (3) Inartistic representations of human 
 beings, which evidently belong to a period of deca- 
 dence in the execution of this work. 
 
 The colours are invariably red, yellow, and black. 
 1 am told that the two former are obtained from 
 certain coprolites found in these parts, which, when 
 broken open, have a yellow dust inside. 
 
 In this curiously decorated cave we found also 
 many graves formed by plastering up holes in the 
 rock with a hard kind of cement. We opened one of 
 them, and found that the corpse had been wrapped in 
 skins and placed here. In the centre of the cave is 
 a large semicircular wall, entered in the middle by a 
 rounded entrance ; behind this is a sort of palisade of 
 grass matting placed against poles, to protect it from 
 the wind, and behind this are similar cement-covered 
 graves. Now the present race do not bury in this 
 way, but evidently come here at certain times to 
 keep the place in order, and doiibtless venerate the
 
 THE RUINED CITIES TO THE EAST 
 
 345 
 
 spot as the resting-place of remote ancestors. There 
 are also several other graves on the flat space around 
 Kyanger rock, piles of stones placed around a crescent- 
 shaped wall, which is evidently a sort of rudimentary 
 temple in which the sacrifices take place. 
 
 On our march that day we passed several of these 
 cemeteries in the open veldt far from any trace of 
 
 BUSHMAN DRAWINGS FROM NYANGER ROCK 
 
 habitation. They are generally placed on slightly 
 rising ground, and always have the semicircular 
 structure, which reminded us of the stones placed 
 at the village of Lutzi, where the inhabitants col- 
 lected to smoke and talk, protected from the wind. 
 These spots are evidently still venerated, and form 
 another of the many problems connected with the 
 past in this district of Africa. I think they are the
 
 346 EXPLORATION JOURNEYS IN MASHON ALAND 
 
 places to which Dos Santos alludes in the following 
 paragraph, where he refers .to the chiefs who ' make 
 grand obsequies to their predecessors, who are all 
 buried there.' In a memoir written by Signer Farao, 
 governor of Senna in 1820, there is a curious testimony 
 to this theory. He writes : ' The mountains of Magonio 
 (Makoni?), in Quiteve, were noted as the burial- 
 places of the kings and queens of Quiteve, Gembe 
 and Dombo. The remains were carried in procession 
 to the caves, where they were deposited alongside the 
 bones of former kings, and some of the most esteemed 
 women of the deceased, or his secretary, and some of 
 the great people, were sacrificed at the ceremony.' 
 
 Most of the granite kopjes in this district have been 
 similarly fortified to Nyanger rock. Time would not 
 permit of our visiting many of them, but I am certain 
 that a careful investigation of this district would pro- 
 duce many valuable additions to the already large col- 
 lections of Bushman drawings. The fortifications of 
 these rocks are generally in rows of walls in terraces 
 with narrow rounded entrances ; they are all con- 
 structed in a rough manner, with irregular-shaped 
 stones joined together with cement. 
 
 Near the river Chimbi, which we crossed shortly 
 before reaching Chipunza's kraal, there is a particu- 
 larly interesting specimen of this class of ruin. The 
 rocky kopje is fortified with walls, all the nooks and 
 crannies being carefully walled up, and below this is 
 a curious half-underground passage which evidently 
 connected the fortress with its water supply ; it has
 
 THE RUINED CITIES TO THE EAST 347 
 
 a wall on either side of it one four feet thick, and 
 the other eight feet thick ; and the passage is roofed 
 over with large slabs of stone, some four and some 
 five feet long. This passage can now be traced for 
 about fifty feet ; it is nearly choked up with rub- 
 bish, but the object for which it was originally con- 
 structed is obvious, as it leads down to low swampy 
 ground, where water could be obtained. 
 
 A mile or two beyond this we alighted for a short 
 time at a pretty village called Makonyora, which had 
 been surrounded by a palisade which had taken root 
 and grown into shady trees of considerable size. The 
 inhabitants seemed numerous and well to do. In this 
 village there are many instances of walls constructed 
 like those we had seen in the ruined villages; the 
 foundations for the huts and granaries also are of stone, 
 so that the air may pass underneath, forming neatly 
 executed stone circles. The various gullies between 
 the rocks are carefully walled up, and you pass from 
 one collection of huts to the other through low 
 entrances in these walls. There is no doubt about 
 it, that these people here possess an inherited know- 
 ledge of stone building which exists nowhere else in 
 Kamrland, unless it be amongst the Basutos, who, I 
 am told, are skilled in stone building, and who, at a 
 not very remote period, are believed to have migrated 
 from this very country. It seems to me hardly pos- 
 sible that the gigantic buildings of Zimbabwe and 
 places in this country can have existed in their midst 
 without the inhabitants making some attempt to
 
 348 EXPLORATION JOURNEYS IN MASHONALANT* 
 
 copy them ; and here we have an imitation, though 
 a poor one, in the heart of what was the strongest 
 cbiefdom of the country. 
 
 The aspect of the country is here very curious, 
 the high level plateau (it is about 5,000 feet above 
 sea level) is, as it were, closely sown for miles around 
 with rugged granite kopjes, some only fifty feet high, 
 whilst others reach an elevation of several hundred feet. 
 They are very evenly arranged, too, as if they were the 
 pieces for a cyclopean game of chess. Through this 
 region we passed, and at the eastern end of it we 
 reached our destination, Chipunza's kraal, where we 
 proposed to halt for a day or two. Chipunza's is a very 
 large village, built on a gentle rise on the right bank 
 of the Busapi Eiver, with huts packed away into all 
 sorts of snug corners amongst the rocks. Immediately 
 below these, and within easy reach of the river, we 
 pitched our tents. It was a great disappointment to 
 us to be able to get no meat here. Our meals, which 
 were composed entirely of things farinaceous, were 
 growing exceedingly monotonous, and we almost 
 hated the sight of the porridge-pot, which turned up 
 with unvarying regularity. As against this, the air 
 at Chipunza's was the finest I have ever breathed, 
 exhilarating like draughts of champagne. 
 
 When we reached the village we found the ladies 
 of Chipunza with their bark blankets tied tight around 
 them, for it was chilly, seated in picturesque and 
 strange groups amongst the rocks, busily engaged in 
 a still stranger occupation. They were burning little
 
 THE RUINED CITIES TO THE EAST 351 
 
 heaps of cowdung, and then spreading the results on 
 the rocks to cool. Not understanding what they were 
 about we approached them, when, to our surprise, 
 an old crone picked up a lump of this delectable 
 material, put it into her mouth and consumed it with 
 evident satisfaction, muttering, as she saw our 
 unfeigned surprise, ' Salt, salt ; good, good ! ' and 
 then we realised that here they use the extract of nitre 
 from the ash as their substitute for salt, the commo- 
 dity of life for which they have the greatest craving, 
 but which it is hardest to obtain. 
 
 In the afternoon we went to pay a visit to the 
 chief, who received us in a sort of inner fortress 
 surrounded by a wall, through an opening in which, 
 about three feet high, and covered with large slabs 
 of stone, we had to creep. He is a grey-haired, refined- 
 looking man, with manners very like, and not the 
 least inferior to, an Arab sheikh. He sat surrounded 
 by his councillors, and we all set to work to clap 
 hands vigorously. By this time my wife had learnt to 
 clap hands in the female fashion, namely, crosswise, 
 whereas previously she had disgraced herself by clap- 
 ping like a man, with the fingers straight upon one 
 another ; but, of course, the intricacies of -savage 
 etiquette can only be acquired by practice. 
 
 After a little conversation had passed between us, 
 a woman, one of the chiefs wives, made her appear- 
 ance, bending her body humbly, and carrying a large 
 pot full of wa-wa, as they term beer in this part of the 
 country. This she presented to her lord and master
 
 on bended knee, after having previously drunk a 
 little herself, to convince us that there was no poison 
 in it ; then the chief took a drink, then his councillors, 
 and finally it was handed to us. We found it was lovely 
 beer, very potent, and after our long abstinence from 
 anything so intoxicating, as exhilarating as the air. 
 
 We were much struck by the courteous manners 
 of the natives here. One man, on receiving a present, 
 bowed low and scraped the ground with his feet. 
 There is something about these people which points 
 distinctly to a higher form of civilisation having 
 existed amongst them at a former time ; and whei? 
 one reads Dos Santos's account of the Mocarangas of 
 Monomatapa of his day. one cannot help feeling that 
 they are the remnant of that higher civilisation about 
 which the early Portuguese travellers tell us so much. 
 
 ' The Portuguese,' says Dos Santos, ' did not enter 
 the king's presence, like the Kaffirs, with deep obeis- 
 ance, only with bare feet ; ' and in a curious old treaty 
 published in the Portuguese Yellow-book, and pur- 
 porting to have been made between the Monomatapa 
 chief Manuza and Manuel Gomes Serrao in 1629, the 
 following stipulation is inserted : 
 
 ' The ambassadors who shall come to speak with 
 him shall enter his Zimbahe covered and shod (with 
 boots on their feet) and with their arms at their sides, 
 as if they were before the King of Portugal. He shall 
 give them chairs upon which to sit, and they shall 
 not be submitted to the ceremony of the clapping of 
 hands.'
 
 THE RUINED CITIES TO THE EAST 353 
 
 Chipunza has another name, Ohipadzi. The exact 
 relation between these two names we were unable to 
 ascertain ; Ohipadzi, however, I believe to be the old 
 dynastic name of the chief. His Zimbabwe, or place of 
 sacrifice, is about a mile from the present village, at 
 a spot called Chittakette, or the Chipadzi's old town. 
 To this place we were to be taken on the morrow. We 
 found it an interesting old spot, buried in trees and with 
 tomatoes and tobacco plants all amongst the ruined 
 walls. It evidently had had a wooden palisade around 
 it, which had sprouted and produced the venerable 
 trees, and it had an inner fortress with walls encircling 
 it, and low gateways through, with large stone slabs 
 over them. It is an excellent specimen of this rough 
 style of fortress : the walls are from six to eight feet 
 thick, with loopholes out of which to shoot, built with 
 no attempt at keeping even courses, and with mortar. 
 Within the fortress are the remains of huts and 
 granaries, as if the place had not been abandoned for 
 very many years. 
 
 Just outside is Chipadzi's tomb, with a tall stone 
 erected over it, and the surrounding ground is 
 covered with tombs. This spot is called the Zimbabwe 
 by the natives, where they sacrifice annually to the 
 Maklosi of their ancestors. 
 
 We spent two days wandering amongst the granite 
 t ocks around Chipunza's kraal, and we found evidence 
 i>f a vast population having lived here at some 
 period. Nearly every one of the granite kopjes is 
 fortified with walls, and on some of them we found
 
 354 EXPLORATION JOURNEYS IN MA SHON ALAND 
 
 graves of cement similar to those we saw at Nyanger 
 rock ; and on the hill just behind Chipunza's kraal a 
 tall stone is erected on a pile of stones, the object of 
 which nobody seemed inclined to tell us. 
 
 How long ago it is since these walled towns were 
 inhabited, and who inhabited them, is, of course, a 
 mystery. There is, however, no evidence of any great 
 antiquity about them ; the mortar may have stood 
 for a few centuries, but not more ; and from the 
 evidence given us by the Portuguese, above quoted, 
 from the continuity of certain names and many 
 customs, and from the fact that the present inhabi- 
 tants still retain a certain knowledge of stone build- 
 ing, I think it is a very reasonable assumption that 
 this was one of the great centres of the so-called 
 Monomatapa Empire. 
 
 After leaving Chipunza's kraal, and crossing the 
 Eiver Eusapi, a ride of two hours brought us to 
 Makoni's kraal. Makoni, chief of the Maunga tribe, 
 is still one of the most powerful potentates in this 
 district. He, too, calls his town Zimbabwe, and it is 
 doubtless the same spot occupied by Makoni, chief 
 of the Maungo, one of the great vassals of the Mono- 
 matapa that Antonio Bocarro tells us about three 
 centuries ago. 
 
 It is probably the highest inhabited spot in 
 Mashonaland, being 5,200 feet above the level of the 
 sea, just at the edge of the hi^h plateau, where it 
 breaks into the serrated ridges of Manicaland. The 
 town covers a very large area of ground, being a
 
 THE RUINED CITIES TO THE EAST 355 
 
 conglomerate mass of huts and granaries surrounded 
 by a palisade. We spent about an hour resting there 
 at a sort of public meeting-place surrounded by a wall, 
 where the inhabitants collected in crowds to stare at 
 us. Most of the men had very large holes pierced in 
 the lobes of their ears, into which they would insert 
 snuff-boxes of reeds, decorated with black geometric 
 patterns, and other articles. The women are all girt 
 with the same bark-fibre garments which we had seen 
 worn in 'Mtoko's country. Accompanied by a swarthy 
 rabble, we climbed a rock behind the town, from 
 which we got an exquisite view down into the valleys of 
 Manica, bearing eastwards a view of rugged moun- 
 tains tumbled together, of deep valleys and running 
 streams a view such as one would get when de- 
 scending from the Alps into the plain of Italy. Chief 
 Makoni never came to see us, and as our time was 
 limited we had to hurry away without making his ac- 
 quaintance. 
 
 Almost immediately on leaving Makoni's our road 
 began to descend, and we entered upon a series of 
 richly wooded gorges, flanked by gigantic granite 
 cliffs. On one of these pinnacles, about the height of 
 Makoni's own kraal, is perched Chigono's village, oc- 
 cupying a most wonderful position. How they ever 
 manage to drag up here a sufficiency of water and the 
 necessaries of life is a marvel. One thing they have 
 in perfection is climate. We found it hot and stuffy in 
 the valleys, but in their mountain eyries the Kaffirs 
 enjoy the most perfect air that it is possible to breathe.
 
 EXPLORAfrON JOtlfttfEYS IN MAStlONALAND 
 
 On the third day after leaving Chipunza's, one of 
 our men had the good luck to shoot an antelope, an 
 event which was hailed with delight by all in our 
 camp. We had never in our lives been so long with- 
 out meat, and the want of it was beginning to be felt 
 by all. On the fourth day we crossed the Odzi River, 
 the boundary between Mashonaland and Manicaland. 
 It is a fine stream even here, with a good body of water 
 even at the end of the dry season, on its way to join 
 the Sabi River, just where we touched it a few weeks 
 before. At the point where we crossed the Odzi the 
 stream was sixty feet across, and the bed is at least 
 one hundred yards wide, and when the rains are on 
 it must be a terrible obstacle. Even as it was we had 
 to unload the donkeys and carry their burdens across, 
 which means, when the afternoon is advancing, a halt 
 for the night. 
 
 A ride of twelve miles brought us next day to the 
 kraal of 'Mtasa, the most powerful of all the Manica 
 chiefs. He is the paramount lord of the Nica tribe, 
 which gives its name to the country, and dwells in 
 the heart of the most mountainous district we had as 
 yet traversed. A mass of mountains, known to the 
 natives as Mount Yenya, occupies the heart of his 
 country. 'Mtasa's kraal itself is over 4,000 feet 
 above the sea level, and above this the rocky moun- 
 tains tower 2,000 feet at least. Here, though not. 
 actually as high as Makoni's, you feel much higher,, 
 looking down into the deep valleys below, and seeing, 
 no high plateau behind you. Amongst these moun-
 
 THE KUINED CITIES TO THE EAST 357 
 
 tains lie numerous scattered kraals, excellent grazing- 
 ground for cattle, and from marauding neighbours 
 'Mtasa is free. Nevertheless, during the last two 
 years poor 'Mtasa has had rather a bad time of it, 
 being the bone of contention between the Portuguese 
 and English chartered companies. Early in 1891, in 
 the very centre of this kraal, a small English contin- 
 gent captured Andrade, Gouveia, and the representa- 
 tives of the Mozambique Company, and noAv the British 
 flag floats over it. 
 
 'Mtasa's kraal is quite one of the most extraor- 
 dinary ones we had yet visited, being a nest of sepa- 
 rate villages, each surrounded by its own stockade, 
 hidden away amongst granite boulders beneath the 
 shade of a lofty mountain. It is almost impossible to 
 form any idea of the exact extent of this place, so 
 hidden away is it amongst, trees and rocks, and so 
 intricate are its approaches ; but, if report tells truly, 
 which it does not always do in South Africa, it is one 
 of the largest native centres in the country. We 
 wandered up to a village the first afternoon, a con- 
 siderable climb from our camp. Little groups of 
 natives sat chattering under the shade of open huts, 
 or just roofs on piles, the rudimentary form of the 
 cafe or the club : there were pigeon-cotes on piles in 
 all directions, and at every turn we found ourselves 
 blocked by palisades, which caused us to retrace our 
 steps ; so, as we intended to stay another day here, we 
 contented ourselves with gazing at the magnificent 
 view, the peaked heights of the Yenya range, the
 
 358 EXPLORATION JOURNEYS IN MASHONALAND 
 
 deep wooded valley below with its dashing stream, 
 and far away in the horizon the distant blue Manica 
 mountains. Certainly no kraal we had as yet visited 
 enjoys such excellent views as 'Mtasa's. 
 The huts here are large and roomy, at 
 the side they have two tall decorated 
 posts to support shelves for their domestic 
 produce ; most of them have two doors, 
 and with the dense shade of many trees 
 above them they are exceedingly pic- 
 turesque. 
 
 On our second visit to the kraals we 
 met 'Mtasa's son, who regretted that his 
 aged father was ill just then, and had 
 gone away for change of air. We took 
 leave of him, and climbed up through 
 rocks and through palisade after pali- 
 sade, shutting off the various kraals from 
 one another ; one of these we entered by 
 a curious gateway made by swinging 
 beams, and penetrated into the head- 
 quarters of the old chief. By this time 
 we noticed that the people began to 
 glare at us unpleasantly and audibly to 
 grumble. Seated in rows on the rocks, 
 they chattered to us like angry monkeys, 
 but we went on without heeding them. One man, 
 with a bayonet fixed on to his rifle, followed un- 
 pleasantly close behind us ; and then, as we were 
 about to penetrate into what I suppose formed 
 
 DECOEATED 
 POST
 
 THE RUINED CITIES TO THE EAST 359 
 
 their innermost recesses, 'Mtasa's son, who, by 
 the way, had had more beer than was good for 
 him, came up to us in hot haste, and peremptorily 
 commanded us to depart. Again he reiterated the 
 statement that his father was away, and during his 
 absence none could see the royal kraal ; so, somewhat 
 crestfallen, we turned back again and saw no more. 
 Afterwards we were informed that the old 'Mtasa 
 was there all the time, but, as he had suffered so 
 much lately from the conflicting interests of England 
 and Portugal, he thought it best not to see us, for fear 
 we might make him sign some new treaty against his 
 will. 
 
 Of all the natives we had met during our wander- 
 ings, those of 'Mtasa's pleased us least ; they appeared 
 to us to be completely wanting in all delicacy of 
 feeling, and had to be driven by force from our tents. 
 They seemed to us to be an ill-bred, impudent race, 
 and though their home was so lovely we left it with- 
 out regret. Somehow, too, our visit to 'Mtasa's kraal 
 was altogether unsatisfactory ; we left it with the 
 consciousness that there were mysteries in it which 
 we had not yet explored. At the very last moment, 
 just as we were packing up our things, I chanced to 
 see on a rock close by our camp some more of the 
 Bushman drawings, grotesque figures of men with 
 bows and arrows and deer grazing, in the usual 
 colours of red and yellow. I feel confident that in 
 the massive mountain behind the kraal some more 
 fortunate travellers will find objects of interest which
 
 360 EXPLORATION JOURNEYS IN MASHON ALAND 
 
 will well repay investigation. "We have distinctly 
 unpleasant recollections of the place, as we have also 
 of a certain dangerous slippery drift or ford across 
 the Eiver Odzani, which we found about half way 
 between 'Mtasa's and the B.S.A. camp at Umtali. 
 We had to take off our shoes and stockings and lead 
 our horses across the slippery rocks ; they, poor 
 things, slipped at every step and trembled with fright. 
 As for our donkeys, they subsided altogether, and had 
 to be unloaded and almost carried across.
 
 SGI 
 
 CHAPTER XII 
 
 THE JOURNEY TO THE COAST 
 
 WE reached Umtali on October 24, just a month 
 after leaving Fort Salisbury. We were distinctly 
 weary and wayworn, and having had but little food of 
 late we partook of the refreshments kindly set before 
 us by the officers of the Chartered Company with, to 
 us, unparalleled heartiness. At Umtali we pitched 
 our tents near a stream with every intention, as time 
 would permit, of taking a few days of rest and retro- 
 spect before starting on the arduous journey down to 
 the coast. 
 
 We had now travelled through the greater part 
 of Mashonaland, as, I suppose, the new country must 
 inevitably be called ; we had studied the archaeology 
 and anthropology of the districts through which we 
 had passed with all the diligence that hard travelling 
 and hard work would allow. Mr. Swan had con- 
 structed a map of the route from observations and 
 bearings taken at every possible opportunity by day 
 and by night ; and at the same time we had formed 
 opinions on the country from our own point of view, 
 perhaps all the more unbiassed because we were not
 
 362 EXPLORATION JOURNEYS IN MASHONALAND 
 
 in search of gold, neither had we pegged out any 
 claims for future development. 
 
 That the country is a magnificent one, apart from 
 gold, I have no hesitation in saying. Any country in 
 such a latitude, and at such an elevation, well watered, 
 with prolific soil, healthy and bracing, if ordinary 
 comforts are attainable, could not fail to be. The 
 scenery is in many parts, as I have previously de- 
 scribed, very fine ; there is abundance of timber, excel- 
 lent prospects for cereals, and many kinds of ore exist 
 which will come in for future development ; and gold 
 is there too. On that point I am perfectly satisfied ; 
 whether in large or small quantities, whether payable 
 or unpayable, is a matter which can only be decided 
 by years of careful prospecting and sinking of shafts, 
 not by hasty scratching on the surface or the verdict 
 of so-called ' experts ' after a hurried visit. That gold 
 was there in very large quantities is also certain, from 
 the vast acres of alluvial soil, turned over, and the 
 countless shafts sunk in remote antiquity. 
 
 To carry out what is necessary for this possible 
 future development, or, perhaps, to speak more cor- 
 rectly, resuscitation of this country, an easy access 
 is indispensable, and the great check to this progress 
 hitherto has been the absence of railways in South 
 Africa on the eastern seaboard, the natural and 
 easiest entrance to the country being in the hands of 
 the listless Portuguese. Progress is impossible with 
 Kimberley as a base of operations and a thousand 
 miles trek over difficult and swampy roads before
 
 THE JOURNEY TO THE COAST 363 
 
 the scene of action is reached. In Western America 
 the railway is the first thing, development comes next ; 
 and inasmuch as the Chartered Company have tried 
 the converse of this to put the cart before the horse, 
 to use a familiar simile they have met with innumer- 
 able difficulties at the very outset. 
 
 Having entered the country by the weary 
 waggon-road through Bechuanaland, and having left 
 it by the now somewhat arduous Pungwe route, I can 
 confidently affirm that this latter is the only possible 
 route ; and I now propose to describe it as it at present 
 exists, feeling sure that in years to come, when the 
 railway hurries the traveller up to Umtali, when the 
 venomous tsetse-fly no longer destroys all transport 
 animals, when lions cease to roar at night, and the 
 game has retired to a respectful distance, a back 
 glimpse at the early days of this route will be his- 
 torically interesting. 
 
 Umtali is the natural land terminus of this route, 
 as Beira is its legitimate port. Umtali, so called from a 
 rivulet which flows below it, was, when we were there, 
 a scattered community of huts, now brought together 
 in a ' township ' at a more favourable spot, about five 
 miles distant from the former site, which township 
 the British South Africa Company hope to call Manica, 
 and to make it the capital of that portion of Manica- 
 land which they so dexterously, to use an Africander 
 term, 'jumped' from the Portuguese. Of all their 
 camps Umtali was the most favourably situated 
 that we visited, enjoying delicious air, an immunity
 
 364 EXPLORATION JOURNEYS IN MASHON ALAND 
 
 from swamps and fevers, lovely views, and many 
 flowers. On the ridge, where the camp huts stood 
 exposed to the violent and prevailing blasts of the 
 south-east winds, which descend in furious gusts from 
 the surrounding mountains, stood also the guns taken 
 from the Portuguese, nine in all, and presenting a for- 
 midable enough appearance, until we learnt that they 
 were useless then, for the pins were abstracted before 
 capture. Far away on the hill slopes were the huts 
 of the original settlers ; the bishop's palace likewise, 
 a daub hut standing in the midst of a goodly mission 
 farm. The hospital, with the sisters' huts, crowned 
 another eminence, and the newly made fort stood on 
 the highest point, from which glorious views could 
 be obtained over the sea of Manica mountains, the 
 rich red soil and green vegetation, so pleasant a 
 change to the eye after the everlasting grey granite 
 kopjes of Mashonaland and its uniform vegetation. 
 
 Of ancient Portuguese remains there are several in 
 the neighbourhood of Umtali fort, where centuries 
 ago the pioneers held their own for awhile against 
 native aggression. To-day, if you dine at the officers' 
 mess at Umtali, you find evidences of Portugal of 
 another nature. You sit on Portuguese chairs and 
 feed off Portuguese plates obtained from the loot at 
 Massi-Kessi ; and when the governor of that district 
 came to pay an amicable visit to the governor of 
 Umtali, they had nothing to seat him on save his own 
 chairs, nothing to feed him off save his own plates, 
 and nothing to give him to eat save his own tinned
 
 THE JOURNEY TO THE COAST 365 
 
 meats. But Portuguese politeness rose to the occa- 
 sion, and no remarks were made. 
 
 Crossing a stream below the fort, we found our- 
 selves amidst a collection of circular daub huts and 
 stores, on either side of what a facetious butcher, who 
 dealt largely in tough old transport oxen, had termed 
 in his advertisement ' Main Street.' Here you might 
 pay enormous prices for the barest necessities of life, 
 and drink at old Angus's bar a glass of whisky at the 
 same price you could get a bottle for in England. 
 Scotch is the prevailing accent here, and I think the 
 greatest gainers out of Mashonaland, in the first year 
 of its existence, were those canny traders who loaded 
 waggons with jams and drink, and sold them at fabu- 
 lous prices to hungry troopers and thirsty prospec- 
 tors. Old Angus was a typical specimen of this class, 
 a sandy-haired little Scotchman, well up in colonial 
 ways, who kept two huts, in one of which eating, 
 drinking, and gossip were always to be found ; whilst 
 the other was divided into three bare cells, and called 
 an hotel. 
 
 Such was the first Umtali, primitive and fascin- 
 ating in its rawness. Now these huts are abandoned 
 to the rats and the rain, and a new Umtali of doubt- 
 ful expansion has been built five miles away. 
 
 Our journey from Umtali to Beira was one which 
 required much forethought. First, we had -much 
 luggage, which we did not wish to leave behind or 
 bury on the way, as others had been obliged to do ; 
 secondly, niy wife did not feel inclined to do the one 
 
 E B
 
 o66 EXPLORATION JOURNEYS IN MASIIONALAND 
 
 hundred and eighty miles on foot, through heat and 
 swamp, in tropical Africa ; and thirdly, the Kaffir 
 bearers were scarce, and especially at that season of 
 the year, when their fields wanted ploughing apt to 
 run away at awkward moments. So the services of 
 the homely ass were brought into requisition. The 
 ass would die of the fly-bite, everyone told us, but HOD 
 until it had deposited us safely in Beira. Conse- 
 quently our eleven asses were retained in our service 
 and considered in the light of the railway tickets of 
 the future, to be used and thrown away. It seemed 
 horribly cruel, I must admit, to condemn eleven asses 
 to certain death ; but then, what are animals made 
 for but to lay down their lives to satisfy the require- 
 ments of man in his dire emergencies? 
 
 A cart was constructed on two firm wheels, the 
 wo;ider of its day. Eight donkeys were harnessed 
 therein, with gear made out of every imaginable scrap. 
 Three donkeys trotted gaily by its side, to be brought 
 into requisition in case of sore backs and other dis- 
 asters ; and one wet evening we despatched our hope- 
 ful cart with our blessing on its road to the coast. 
 It would take three or four days getting by the 
 waggon-road to Massi-Kessi, whilst we could cross the 
 mountains in one. So next morning, we on foot and 
 my wife on horseback, started by the mountain road 
 for Massi-Kessi, and got there as evening was coming 
 on. A good walk in any of the mountainous districts 
 of the British Isles would have been just the same. 
 A drenching mist obscured every vision, the paths
 
 THE JOURNEY TO THE COAST 367 
 
 were slippery and uneven ; occasionally a glimpse at 
 a stream with bananas waving in the mist, or at a 
 Kaffir kraal, would dispel the homelike illusion, and 
 bring us back to Africa again. Towards evening the 
 aggravating mist cleared away, and gave us a splendid 
 panorama of the surrounding, mountains as we ap- 
 proached Massi-Kessi and entered the valley of the 
 Eiver Eevwe. Just here we walked for miles over 
 ground which had been worked for alluvial gold in 
 the olden days, the soil being honeycombed with low 
 holes, and presenting the appearance of a ploughed 
 field with circular furrows. 
 
 Certainly the Portuguese, or rather the Mozam- 
 bique Company, are to be congratulated on the 
 possession of such a paradise as this Eevwe Valley 
 fertile in soil, rich in water, glorious in its views over 
 forest-clad mountains ; and it is not to be wondered 
 at that they keenly resented the temporary appro- 
 priation of it. Massi-Kessi and its neighbourhood are 
 rich in reminiscences of the Portuguese past ; the new 
 fort, where the new company has its store, was built 
 out of the remains of an old Portuguese fort, around 
 which you may still pick up fragments of Nankin 
 porcelain, relics of those days, now long since gone 
 by, when the Portuguese of Africa, India, and the 
 Persian Gulf lived in the lap of luxury, and fed oil 
 porcelain brought by their trading-ships from China. 
 Higher up in the mountain valleys are forts and 
 roads of this occupation. As in the Persian Gulf, as 
 in Goa and elsewhere, the Portuguese influence van- 
 
 B B 2
 
 368 EXPLORATION JOURNEYS IN MASHONALAND 
 
 ished in East Africa after her union with Spain and 
 the consequent drafting off of her soldiers to the wars 
 in Flanders ; barely a phantom of her former power 
 remained to her in the province of Mozambique. A 
 few futile expeditions under Barretto, Fernandez, and 
 others were destroyed either by the natives or by 
 fever, during one of which the legend is still told that 
 the defenders of this fort of Massi-Kessi were obliged 
 to cast bullets out of gold nuggets when cheaper ma- 
 terial came to an end. After this the inland country 
 was practically abandoned to the savages. Old trea- 
 ties existed but were not renewed ; lethargy seemed 
 to have taken entire possession of the few remaining 
 Portuguese who were left here, a lethargy from 
 which they were rudely awakened by the advent of 
 the Chartered Company. What better argument do 
 we want for the reoccupation of this country by a 
 more enterprising race than these forts abandoned 
 and in ruins, and the treaties with savage chiefs long 
 since neglected consigned to the national archives ? 
 The little episode of Massi-Kessi is certainly one 
 which deserves to be engraven on our national records, 
 though it arose from a mistake, and the ground 
 gained had ultimately to be abandoned ; nevertheless 
 these facts do in no way detract from the bravery of 
 the Chartered Company's men. 
 
 Forty Englishmen of troop A, under the command 
 of Captain Hayman, were stationed about 1,500 yards 
 from the fort at one o'clock on the day of the fight. 
 Messengers were sent from the Portuguese bidding
 
 THE JOURNEY TO THE COAST 
 
 3G9 
 
 them retire, but Captain Hayman said his orders were 
 to the contrary, and he could not. Thereupon the 
 Portuguese force, mustering 150 white men and 300 
 blacks, advanced, and the action began. At five 
 o'clock they retreated, with many killed and wounded, 
 but not one single Englishman suffered. Next morn- 
 ing our troops were surprised to find that the Portu- 
 guese flag was not up, and on marching to the fort 
 they found it abandoned. Here it was that they 
 took the guns we had seen at Umtali and 110,000 
 rounds of ammunition. The victorious troops pushed 
 on as far as Chimoia's, and would have driven the 
 Portuguese out of the country had they not then been 
 met by orders to retreat. Massi-Kessi was also even- 
 tually abandoned, and by the recent treaty is included 
 in the dominions of the Portuguese Chartered Com- 
 pany. In the store, however, one of the B.S.A. 
 troopers carved the following memento of his visit 
 before taking his departure : 
 
 R 
 
 A TEOOP 
 1 B.S.A.C.P. 
 
 20 Nov. '90.
 
 370 EXPLORATION JOURNEYS IX MASITONALAND 
 
 The tradition of good living is still maintained by 
 the Portuguese officials at Massi-Kessi. Never saw I 
 a, greater contrast in seventeen miles than that offered 
 by the fare provided at the British camp at Umtali, 
 and that placed before us by the kind Portuguese 
 commandant at Massi-Kessi ; here we had six courses 
 of meat and excellent wines, and other, to us, un- 
 wonted luxuries. They have farms for vegetables, 
 and many head of cattle around ; they have their 
 natives under complete control, and make them work ; 
 they build large roomy huts, but the commandant's 
 apologies because we had to sit on wooden boxes, not 
 on chairs, made us blush, for we knew that the said 
 chairs were there once, but now were gracing the 
 British mess-room at Umtali. 
 
 When speaking of roughing it in the interior, the 
 want of food and the necessaries of life, Commandant 
 Bethencourt was slightly sarcastic. ' What strange 
 people you English are to do such things ! ' he said. 
 'We Portuguese might, perhaps, do them for our 
 country, but for a Company never ! ' 
 
 Now we started in good earnest for the coast, 
 refreshed by our three days' rest at Massi-Kessi 
 under the kind roof of the Portuguese ; our cart 
 had arrived, and our eleven donkeys and men 
 looked fit, despite the evil road they had had to 
 traverse. 
 
 Two roads from here were open to us to Beira 
 one by the Pungwe, the other by the Buzi Eiver. We 
 hesitated somewhat in our choi'ce, for the latter, we
 
 THE JOURNEY TO THE COAST 371 
 
 were told, was less swampy, and the fertile district of 
 Umliwan would have interested us where they grow 
 the best tobacco in these parts, and the prospects of 
 which for agricultural purposes, they said, are bril- 
 liant ; but, as the season was growing late, and the 
 rains might come on any day, we decided on taking 
 the quicker and more frequented route. Moreover, 
 we were anxious to witness for ourselves the cala 
 mities which had befallen Messrs. Heany and Johnson 
 on their pioneer route, and to form our own opinion 
 as to its possibility for the future. 
 
 Our first halt was at the Mineni Eiver, a tributary 
 of the Eevwe, which we reached after an easy journey, 
 marked only by the upsetting of our cart when we 
 least expected it, an accident which occurred for the 
 first and only time. The Mineni is a rapid stream, 
 flanked by rich tropical vegetation, with graceful 
 bamboos and lovely ferns overhanging the water ; it 
 supplied a deficiency we had long felt in Mashona- 
 land scenery, namely, water in conjunction with moun- 
 tains and rich vegetation. The greens are peculiarly 
 vivid here, and the red young leaves of some of the 
 trees give the appearance of autumnal tints, and form 
 a feature peculiar to African landscape. In its rocky 
 bed we dared to bathe without fear of crocodiles, an 
 ever-present terror to those who venture into the 
 sluggish sandy pools of Eastern Africa. 
 
 Messrs. Heany and Johnson undoubtedly did good 
 work in preparing their road, for which work we 
 probably are the only people who are devoutly thank-
 
 372 EXPLORATION JOURNEYS IN MASHON ALAND 
 
 ful, for ours is the only wheeled vehicle which has 
 traversed it in its entirety since the single pioneer 
 coach went up to Umtali, after infinite difficulty and 
 weeks of disaster, with such sorry tales of fever, fly, 
 and swamp, that no waggons have since ventured to 
 repeat the experiment. The trees which they had 
 cut down, and the culverts which they had made over 
 the dongas, assisted us materially, and we stepped 
 along our road right merrily. 
 
 The farther we went the more reason we had to 
 be thankful for our frail cart and homely asses. 
 Others we passed in dire distress whose bearers had 
 deserted them, and who could not find more : we 
 overtook one party holding solemn conclave as to 
 what they should throw away, what they should bury, 
 and what they could possibly manage to take on. 
 Boxes, containing liquor, clothes, and other com- 
 modities which could be dispensed with, are fre- 
 quently found on the road, telling their tale of deser- 
 tion by bearers and acute misery of the possessors. 
 
 He who first started the evil plan of paying these 
 dark bearers in advance ought for ever to be held up 
 to public obloquy. The Kaffir, doubtless, has been 
 often cheated by the white man, for many unscrupu- 
 lous individuals have traversed this road from Umtali 
 to Beira, and the black man was wise in his generation 
 when he insisted on payment before undertaking 
 the journey ; but now he has too dangerous an 
 opportunity for retaliation, of which he takes fre- 
 quent advantage, and many are the cases of deser-
 
 THE JOURNEY TO THE COAST 373 
 
 tion at awkward points. A white man, stricken with 
 fever, had to pay his bearers over and over again 
 before he could persuade them to go on ; the Sisters 
 on their way to Umtali were deserted at Chimoia; 
 and at the season of the year when the fields are to 
 be ploughed they develop a still greater tendency to 
 this unscrupulous behaviour. 
 
 The Portuguese manage their affairs far better 
 than we do. Troops of so-called convicts are shipped 
 from their West African provinces to those on the 
 east coast, and vice versa, so that in both places 
 they have ready-made slaves to carry their baggage 
 and their mashilas, or travelling hammocks. The 
 Portuguese word is law with their black subjects, 
 whereas the unfortunate Englishman has to pay 25s. 
 or 21. for a bearer, who will carry sixty pounds, but 
 will desert when the fancy takes him. Furthermore, 
 the Englishman dare not treat his nigger as he 
 deserves ; if he did, he would be had up at once be- 
 fore the Portuguese magistrates, and be sure to get 
 the worst of it. Before the Pungwe route can be 
 made available, even for the lightest traffic, this order 
 of things must cease. The native bearer is undoubt- 
 edly a fine specimen of humanity. He will carry on 
 his head weights of surprising size, which it requires 
 two men to lift up to its exalted position ; he runs 
 along at a rapid pace, and does his twenty-five to 
 thirty miles a day with infinite ease ; and if the deser- 
 tion and payment question were settled, there would 
 not be so many thousands of pounds' worth of valu-
 
 374 EXPLORATION JOURNEYS IN MASHONALAND 
 
 able stuff spoiling at Beira, and much wanted at 
 Umtali. Each chief ought to be compelled to supply 
 a fixed number of bearers at a fixed tariff, and cases 
 of desertion should be severely punished. But the 
 way to do this is not clear as yet, for the Portuguese 
 do not wish it, and to the British mind this form 
 of compulsory labour might savour too much of 
 slavery. 
 
 With our cart we did eighteen and twenty miles 
 a day ; quite far enough for the pedestrian in this 
 warm climate. The first hour's walk, from 6 to 7 
 A.M., was always delicious, before the full power of 
 the sun was felt ; the rest of the day was atrociously 
 hot, especially when our road led us through steaming 
 tropical forests and rank vegetation. Luckily for us 
 at this season of the year the long grass in the open 
 veldt was all burnt, and the stifling experience of walk- 
 ing through eight or ten feet of grass and getting no 
 view whatsoever was spared us. 
 
 Shade for our midday halts was always precarious. 
 African trees have the character of giving as little 
 shade as possible, and this we found to be invariably 
 the case. Luckily, water is everywhere abundant, 
 and we could assuage our thirst with copious 
 draughts of tea. 
 
 The native kraals on this road are highly un- 
 interesting; the inhabitants are wanting altogether 
 in that artistic tendency displayed in Mashonaland, 
 which showed itself in carved knives, snuff-boxes, and 
 weapons. A chief named Bandula occupies a com-
 
 THE JOURNEY TO THE COAST 375 
 
 manding position on a high range which we passed 
 on our left, at the foot of which flows a stream called 
 the Lopodzi, which delighted us with its views over 
 the Nyangombwe Mountains, and offended us with 
 its swampy banks, where the frogs croaked as loud 
 as the caw of the rooks in our woods at home. 
 
 Cbimoia's kraal is a sort of half-way halt, where 
 all waggons are now left before entering the much- 
 dreaded ' fly belt ; ' and here my wife parted reluc- 
 tantly with her horse, and transferred herself and 
 her saddle to the back of one of the three loose asses 
 which accompanied our cart. Most people seem to 
 have two or three asses in their train, for fear of 
 being utterly helpless in case of the desertion of their 
 blacks, and all are prepared for their ultimate demise, 
 either by the violence of the lion or the bite of the 
 fly. One ass at Chimoia's distinguished itself by 
 seizing its master's sugar-bag, and consuming it and 
 its contents with all the greater avidity when the 
 master and his stick turned up. All laughed ; but all 
 who had experienced the great calamity of being 
 without sugar in this land felt deep compassion for 
 the victim. 
 
 Chimoia's is a scattered kraal, poor and destitute : 
 clusters of round huts with low eaves, and doors 
 through which one has to crawl on hands and 
 knees. 
 
 We could get no meal here, as everyone had told 
 us we should, and when talking over our supplies 
 the faces of our men grew long and anxious ; and if
 
 376 EXPLORATION JOUENEYS IN MASHONALAND 
 
 it had not been for the kindness of other white men 
 whom we met on our way down, famine would have 
 been added to our other discomforts ; but good 
 fellowship and spontaneous liberality are the charac- 
 teristics of all those Englishmen who have been up 
 country, and at one time or another known what it is 
 to be without food. At Chimoia's ends the pleasant 
 traffic in beads and cloth, which for months past had 
 kept our money in our pockets. Here a rupee is asked 
 for every commodity; and some day surprising 
 hoards of these coins will be found in the Kaffir 
 kraals near the coast, for they never spend them, 
 neither do they wear them as ornaments, and it is a 
 marvel to all what they do with them. The vegeta- 
 tion is very fine around Chimoia's, and the land 
 appears wonderfully fertile. On the top of a strangely 
 serrated ridge of mountains behind the village is a 
 deserted Portuguese fort, and a flagstaff with nothing 
 floating therefrom. 
 
 Beyond Chimoia's the streams grow more sluggish, 
 and emit more foetid odours, suggestive of fevers. 
 Eagged-leaved bananas, bamboos, and tree-ferns 
 luxuriate in all these streams, which work their way 
 in deep channels, or dongas, across the level country. 
 
 The fall is now scarcely perceptible, and the long 
 flat belt which girdles Africa is entered, the much- 
 dreaded low veldt, teeming with swamps, game, and 
 tsetse-fly. At one time you are walking through a 
 forest of bamboos, making graceful arches overhead 
 with their long canes, and recalling pictures of Japan ;
 
 THE JOURNEY TO THE COAST 377 
 
 at another time you go through palm forests, arid 
 then comes a stretch of burning open country ; and 
 at night-time, for the first time, we heard the lions 
 roar. We lighted huge camp-fires and trembled for 
 the safety of our eleven donkeys, for which animals 
 lions are supposed to have a particular predilection. 
 
 Mandigo's kraal is twenty-four miles from 
 Chimoia's, and to us was equally uninteresting and 
 equally unproductive of the much-needed supplies. 
 Some say the fly only begins here, and certainly we 
 saw none ourselves till after Mandigo's ; and from 
 here to Sarmento we saw plenty of it. The tsetse-fly 
 is grey, about the size of an ordinary horse-fly, with 
 overlapping wings. Our donkeys, poor things, got 
 many bites, and we felt grieved at their prospective 
 deaths. We provided them with the only remedy of 
 which we could hear, namely, a handful of salt every 
 night ; but how this is supposed to act in counter- 
 acting the bite of the fly I am at a loss to 
 imagine. 
 
 Certainly this fly has many peculiarities. All 
 domesticated quadrupeds horses, oxen, and dogs 
 die from it when brought up country ; whereas zebras, 
 buffaloes, and native curs flourish amongst it with im- 
 punity, and its bite has not so much effect upon 
 human beings as that of a common midge. 
 
 Ample evidence of the ravages of this veno- 
 mous insect are visible on the roadside. Dozens of 
 waggons lie rotting in the veldt, bearing melan- 
 choly testimony to the failure of Messrs. Heany and
 
 578 EXPLORATION JOURNEYS IN MASHONALAND 
 
 Johnson's pioneer scheme. Everywhere lie the 
 bleaching bones of the oxen which dragged them ; 
 and at Mandigo's is an abandoned hut filled to over- 
 flowing with the skins of these animals, awaiting 
 the further development of the Pungwe traffic to be 
 converted into ropes, or reims, as they are usually 
 termed in South Africa. Fully 2,000/. worth of wag- 
 gons, we calculated, as we passed by on one day's 
 inarch, lies in the veldt, ghostlike, as after a battle. 
 
 Then there are Scotch carts of more or less value, 
 and a handsome Cape cart, which Mr. Ehodes had to 
 abandon on his way up to Mashonaland, containing 
 in the box seat a bottle labelled * Anti-fly mixture,' a 
 parody on the situation. 
 
 But the greatest parody of all is at Sarmento 
 itself, a Portuguese settlement on the banks of the 
 Pungwe. Here two handsome coaches, made ex- 
 pressly in New Hampshire, in America, for the 
 occasion, lie deserted near the Portuguese huts. 
 They a're richly painted with arabesques and pictures 
 on the panels ; ' Pungwe route to Mashonaland ' is 
 written thereon in letters of gold. The comfortable 
 cushions inside are being moth-eaten, and the ap- 
 proaching rains will complete the ruin of these 
 handsome but ill-fated vehicles. Meanwhile the 
 Portuguese stand by and laugh at the discomfiture of 
 their British rivals in the thirst for gold. Even the 
 signboard, with ' To Mashonaland,' is in its place ; 
 and all this elaborate preparation for the pioneer 
 route has been rendered abortive by that venomous
 
 THE JOURNEY TO THE COAST 37D 
 
 little insect the tsetse-fly. In his zeal to carry out his 
 contract, Major Johnson committed a great error and 
 entailed an enormous amount of misery when he 
 telegraphed that the Pungwe route was open, and 
 circulated advertisements to that effect, giving dates 
 and hours which were never carried out. 
 
 Heaps of people, for the most part poor and im- 
 pecunious, flocked to this entrance to their Eldorado, 
 and after waiting without anything and in abject 
 misery at Chimoia's had to return to Mapanda's, 
 where the condition of affairs was desperate people 
 dying of fever, the doctor himself ill, and no 
 food, for the Portuguese governor of Neves Ferreira, 
 Colonel Madera, boycotted the English and forbade 
 the natives to bring them provisions. Assistance was 
 brought to them by Dr. Todd, of the Magicienne ; but 
 many died, and the rest, disappointed and penniless, 
 had to return to Capetown. 
 
 The Eiver Pungwe is imposing at Sarmento, its bed 
 being nearly two hundred yards across, and the view 
 of the reaches up and down from the verandah where 
 the Portuguese governor has his meals al fresco is 
 fairly striking. But the Pungwe is imposing nowhere 
 else where we saw it, being a filthy, muddy stream, 
 flowing between mangrove swamps, relieved occa- 
 sionally by a tall palm and villages on piles ; the 
 surroundings are perfectly flat, and its repulsive 
 waters were until lately plied only by the tree canoes 
 of the natives. Crocodiles and hippopotami revel in 
 its muddy waters, and on its banks game is abundant
 
 380 EXPLOEATION JOURNEYS IN MASHONALAND 
 
 enough to satisfy the most ardent sportsman. Deer 
 of every conceivable species are to be seen still quietly 
 grazing within shot of the road ; buffaloes, zebras, 
 lions, hyenas, wild pigs, nay, even the elephant, may 
 be found in this corner of the world. Disappointed 
 as the sportsman may have been with the results 
 of his exploits in Mashonaland and the high veldt, he 
 will be amply rewarded for the fatigues of his journey 
 to Beira by finding himself in a country which would 
 appear to produce all the kinds of wild animals that 
 came to Adam for their names. One herd of zebra, 
 numbering about fifty, stood staring at us so long, 
 at a distance of not more than a hundred yards, that 
 we were able to photograph them twice. The flesh of 
 the zebra is eatable, and we, with our limited larder, 
 greatly enjoyed a zebra steak when one was shot. A 
 little farther on a gnu, or blue hartebeest, as the 
 Dutchmen call it, stood and contemplated us with 
 almost as much curiosity as we manifested in seeing 
 him so near our path . But, for my part, no amount of 
 game or quaint tropical sights would compensate for 
 the agonies of the walk from Sarmento to Mapanda's 
 across the shadeless burning plain, beneath a torrid, 
 scorching sun. Now and again we got shelter from 
 the burning rays beneath the wild date-palms, a very 
 pleasing feature in the landscape, varied by the fan- 
 palms, with their green feather-like leaves and bright 
 orange stalks, covered with similarly coloured fruit. 
 When ripe the fruit becomes dark brown, like the 
 cultivated date ; and though we ate quantities, we did
 
 THE JOURNEY TO THE COAST 381 
 
 not get very considerable satisfaction from the con- 
 sumption. Then a few delightful moments of repose 
 would be passed by a sluggish stream, almost hidden 
 by its rich jungle of shade ; but on these last days of 
 our long tramp we did not care to delay, but pushed 
 on eagerly to reach the corrugated iron palaces of 
 Mapanda, where we should find the river and the 
 steamer. 
 
 Mapanda's is, indeed, a sorry place : not a tree to 
 give one shade, only a store or two, built of that un- 
 sightly corrugated iron so much beloved by the early 
 colonists of South Africa, and a few daub huts. It is 
 a paradise only for those who arrive weary and worn 
 from the interior, and for the sportsman, affording 
 him a pied-a-terre in the very midst of the land where 
 ' the deer and the antelope roam.' It has, how- 
 ever, certain points on which it justly prides itself. 
 Firstly, it is the only spot for miles around which 
 is not under water when the floods are out, for 
 the banks of the Pungwe are fairly high here. 
 Secondly, the river is navigable up to here for small 
 steamers, even in the driest season ; and, uninviting 
 though it is at present, Mapanda may have a future 
 before it. 
 
 We had three days to wait at Mapanda's before 
 the little steamer Agnes would come up to take us 
 away, and these three days were not without their 
 excitements. 
 
 Three lions penetrated one night into the heart 
 of the camp, and partially consumed three donkeys 
 
 cc
 
 382 EXPLORATION JOURNEYS IN MASHONALANI) 
 
 not ours, we are thankful to say, but those of a 
 wicked Polish Jew, who had given infinite trouble to 
 the English there, by causing an innocent Briton to 
 be arrested by the Portuguese on a charge of theft ; 
 on which account he (the Jew) was well ducked in 
 the Pungwe, and no one was sorry when the dis- 
 criminating lions chose his donkeys for their meal; 
 nay, many expressed a wish that the owner himself 
 had formed part of the banquet. The next night the 
 three lions, which had been lurking during the day 
 in the jungle by the river, came to visit us again, 
 with a view to demolishing what they and the vultures 
 had left of the Hebrew's donkeys. One of the three 
 visitors was shot, but he got away, and we heard no 
 more of them. 
 
 Opposite the British colony at Mapanda is a large 
 island forty miles long by twenty at its widest ; this 
 island is formed by the Pungwe and a branch of the 
 same known by the Kaffir name of Dingwe-Dingwe. 
 The island is perfectly flat, covered with low brush- 
 wood here and there, and long grass. It abounds in 
 game ; and on it the chief Mapanda has his kraal, 
 having removed thither when the English came 
 to settle at his old one on the banks of the river. 
 One day we devoted to visiting this kraal, performing 
 part of the journey in a native canoe which we 
 borrowed just the hollow stem of a large tree which 
 oscillated so much under our inexperienced hands 
 that we momentarily expected it to upset and hand 
 us over to the crocodiles ; so we effected a hasty
 
 THE JOURNEY TO THE COAST 383 
 
 landing in the swampy jungle and proceeded on 
 foot. 
 
 Mapanda's own village consists of only eight 
 bamboo huts, built close to a tall palm-tree ; in the 
 centre of the huts is a raised platform, on which the 
 grass-woven granaries of the community are kept. 
 Beneath, in the shade, lay idle inhabitants, and from 
 it were hung the grass petticoats and jangling beads 
 which they use in their dances. I entered one of the 
 huts on all-fours for inspection, and as I was engaged 
 in so doing a terrified woman inside tore down the 
 frail wall and made a hurried exit at the other side. 
 I am told by those outside that the effect was most 
 ludicrous. No wonder these dusky beauties are some- 
 what afraid of the white man, as hitherto they have 
 dealt only with the Portuguese, who pride themselves 
 on amalgamating well with the natives. In choosing 
 a wife the Portuguese is not at all particular as to 
 colour, nor is he a monogamist, as he would have to 
 be in his far-off country. This we discovered for 
 ourselves at Neves Ferreira, the Portuguese settle- 
 ment on the Pungwe, about six miles below Mapanda's, 
 where, beneath tall bananas and refreshing shade, the 
 authorities of that nation pass a life of Oriental luxury 
 which somewhat scandalises the strait-laced Briton. 
 
 There are several little kraals on the island 
 belonging to the sons and relatives of Mapanda, all 
 built on the same lines, and in visiting which we 
 made ourselves insufferably thirsty, so that a good 
 drink of Kaffir beer, or, as the Portuguese call it,
 
 o84 EXPLORATION JOURNEYS IN MASHONALAND 
 
 1 millet wine,' was highly acceptable. It is much 
 more potent than the beer they make up country, and 
 if it were not for the husks therein, and general nature 
 of fermented porridge it presents, one might fancy it 
 champagne. Here, too, they make palm wine, tap- 
 ping all the neighbouring palm-trees for the sap, 
 which is highly intoxicating, and of by no means a 
 disagreeable flavour. At Mapanda's we bade farewell 
 to our donkeys and our cart and our conductor, 
 Meredith, who had been with us and served us faith- 
 fully ever since we left Kimberley, ten long months 
 before. He returned to Fort Salisbury with the cart, 
 and wrote to inform us of the miseries of his journey 
 owing to the rains, which brought fever, and the 
 demise of the donkeys before the end of the journey. 
 
 The voyage from Mapanda's to the sea at Beira 
 would be indescribably monotonous were it not for 
 a few interesting features afforded by the stream 
 itself. The tide here conies up with a remarkably 
 strong bore, or wall-like wave, reminding one of the 
 same phenomenon in the Severn at home. We heard 
 it murmuring in the distance like the soughing of 
 a rising wind ; as it approached us the roar grew 
 very loud, and finally the wave floated our stranded 
 steamer almost in an instant. 
 
 Sandbanks are the bane of the navigator of this 
 stream. On his last voyage our captain had been 
 detained for three days on one, and we passed a Portu- 
 guese gunboat which looked as if it would remain 
 there till the end of time. Our fate was a mild one :
 
 THE JOUENEY TO THE COAST 385 
 
 we were only on a bank for a few hours, until the bore 
 came up. These sandbanks are constantly shifting, and 
 the captain never knows where they may next appear ; 
 consequently slow speed and constant soundings are 
 the only safeguards. Crocodiles innumerable bask 
 on these sandbanks, and in the stream itself hippo- 
 potami raise their black heads and stare at the 
 strange animal which has come, and which will 
 shortly cause the extermination of their species in 
 the Pungwe. 
 
 Beira itself is the Portuguese word for a spit of 
 sand, and is a horror of corrugated-iron domiciles on 
 a bare shadeless sandspit at the mouth of the Pungwe. 
 There is no drinkable water to be got within three 
 miles of the place, and we paid half-a-crown a bucket 
 for a very questionable quality of the precious 
 fluid. Nobody washes himself or his clothes in any- 
 thing but the sea during the dry season. On the 
 last day of our stay at Beira (November 23) the 
 heavens were opened and rain fell in torrents. Never 
 was rain more welcome ; pot, pan, and bucket were 
 placed in every direction, and the extortionate water 
 vendors had to retire from the field. 
 
 Where the eye does not rest on sea or sand it 
 wanders from Beira over miles of flat mangrove 
 swamps. The heat was scorching ; when you walked 
 you sank ankle-deep in sand at each step. Of all 
 places Beira is the most horrible. When a Portuguese 
 merchant goes to his office he is borne by four totter- 
 ing negroes in his mashila ; the Englishman walks and
 
 386 EXPLORATION JOURNEYS IN MASHONALAND 
 
 does most of his own work for himself, for the very 
 good reason that he can get nobody to do it for him. 
 This labour question is one of vital importance in 
 Beira, and if ever it is to be a port of note the present 
 order of things must be altered. 
 
 Yet, in spite of the fever, the heat, and the sand, 
 Beira must go ahead, as nature has provided it with 
 an excellent harbour, a rarity on the east coast of 
 Africa. This is the only harbour for the proposed 
 railway to the interior, which is to have its terminus 
 on the opposite side of the harbour to Beira, nearer to 
 the mouth of the Buzi, and will run along the flats 
 between that river and the Pungwe. Until this line 
 is made, I think few of those who have come down 
 this road will care to return and face the discomforts 
 of another foot journey through the fly country and 
 the swamps. Perhaps it will be two years before 
 this line is completed, and it must be done by the co- 
 operation of the two interested companies, the British 
 South Africa and the Mozambique. Between Massi- 
 Kessi and Umtali it will cost a considerable amount 
 of capital if the hills are to be tunnelled. On the 
 flats the swamps will cause difficulties : fevers will 
 play havoc with the labourers, and the rivers and the 
 dongas will have to be bridged. 
 
 When this line is completed, I feel confident that 
 Mashonaland will rapidly go ahead. There are in it 
 all the elements of prosperity ; and we may yet live 
 to see the glories of the ancient ruins revived under 
 other auspices, for long centuries have not altered 
 the love of gold inherent in mankind.
 
 APPENDIX A 
 
 Notes on the Geography and Meteorology of 
 Mashonaland 
 
 By EGBERT M. W. SWAN, Esq. 
 
 CENTRAL MASHONALAND consists of elevated granite plateaux, 
 varying in height between 3,000 and 5,000 feet. Through 
 the surface of these plains rise groups of isolated little granite 
 hills which are most remarkable and varied in form, and 
 which sometimes attain an elevation of 1,000 feet above their 
 base, but more frequently they are about 400 feet high. 
 Generally they are composed of enormous broken blocks of 
 granite, but often they are dome-shaped and of one unbroken 
 mass of rock, and suggest the idea of huge bubbles on the 
 surface of a molten mass. The summits of the latter kind of 
 hills are, of course, quite inaccessible. They are not hills left 
 in relief by the denudation of the surrounding country, but, 
 judging from exposed sections of some that I have seen, they 
 have been elevated by a force acting at a comparatively small 
 distance below the present surface, and they are older than 
 the stratified rocks of the country. 
 
 On the granite plateaux one meets with patches of 
 stratified rock of quartzites and schists, and rarely some 
 crystalline limestone. Magnesia, too, is sometimes present.
 
 390 APPENDICES 
 
 notably at Umtali, and in the steatite which occurs near the 
 Great Zimbabwe, of which many of the objects found in the 
 excavations were made. The strike of the strata is generally 
 east and west, and the various patches arrange themselves in 
 several fairly continuous lines running across the country in 
 the same direction as the strike. These semi-continuous 
 deposits or belts of stratified rock are generally two or three 
 miles wide, and in them occur the gold-bearing quartz reefs. 
 The most southerly belt that I know of in Mashonaland 
 proper passes by Fort Victoria, and probably crosses the 
 Sabi River about latitude 20. The next large one passes by 
 Umtali and the 'Mfuli River, where it crosses the waggon- 
 road, and so on to Hartley Hill. This belt includes Mount 
 Wedsa, the highest mountain in Mashonaland. Next in 
 order comes the Mazoe deposit, which perhaps also includes 
 the Kaiser Wilhelm gold-field. These deposits are all fairly 
 similar in nature, but no fossils have been found in them, and 
 their age has not been determined. They probably repre- 
 sent a continuous sheet of stratified rock, all of which has 
 been denuded away except the above-mentioned belts. They 
 generally present a rugged surface, elevated in mountain 
 ranges, which often rise 1,500 and 2,000 feet above their 
 base, and, although they are nearly always steep, they are 
 rarely precipitous. These mountains are regular and beau- 
 tiful in outline, and refresh the eye after it has grown wearied 
 of the grotesque forms of the granite hills. The soil on the 
 stratified rocks is more fertile than it is on the granite, and 
 the vegetation is more charming ; the very coarse grasses of 
 the granite soils being replaced by many flowering plants. 
 
 The ruins which have just been described are all built on 
 granite, but are generally within a short distance of the 
 quartz formation ; and the ruins at Zimbabwe are situated four 
 miles from the southern edge of the quartz belt. At Zimbabwe 
 we found little clay crucibles in which gold had been melted,
 
 GEOGRAPHY AND METEOROLOGY 391 
 
 and an accumulation of quartzite rock which had been 
 obtained from the casing of a quartz reef. I carefully tested 
 this rock for gold, but could only find a very minute trace ; so 
 I conclude that ifc had been rejected as too poor for treatment. 
 While at Zimbabwe, whenever I could spare time from the 
 excavations, I made excursions to the quartz belt, and searched 
 for old workings and gold reefs. I found one reef carrying a 
 small quantity of gold, but no old workings. Since then, 
 however, rich gold reefs have been discovered about twenty 
 miles to the north-west of Zimbabwe, and from these probably 
 the ancients obtained their quartz. The quartz formation near 
 the little ruin at the Mazoe River has been much worked for 
 gold, and the Manica belt seems to have been even more 
 exploited. Where the high plateau breaks down at Massi- 
 Kessi an enormous amount of alluvial has been worked. The 
 old people must have obtained, from both the alluvial and the 
 reefs, a great quantity of gold to repay them for the work 
 that they did, and there is no reason to suppose that they 
 have exhausted the reefs ; indeed, I have seen at the bottom 
 of old workings the reef continuing and carrying visible 
 gold. 
 
 Besides gold reefs, these quartz belts contain much iron 
 ore and some manganese. In two isolated patches of the 
 quartzite formation at the Doroba Mountains, near the Sabi 
 River, I found great masses of rich magnetite and hematite, 
 and on the top of Mount 'Nyaguzwe, near Fort Victoria, 
 there is also a mass of magnetite ; in fact, so very abundant 
 is iron ore, that compass bearings can rarely be taken with 
 safety from hills in the quartz formation. Along the right 
 bank of the Sabi River, near Mount Wedsa, are many native 
 villages, whose one industry is iron smelting. They obtain 
 the ore from Mount Wedsa, which is renowned far and wide 
 in Kaffirland as an iron -producing mountain. The mineral 
 they select is not very rich, and is consequently more easily
 
 392 APPENDICES 
 
 smelted, and it contains some manganese. The iron they 
 produce is very pure, and is consequently soft and easily 
 fashioned into weapons and tools. Their anvils are simple 
 blocks of hard diorite, on which they hammer with another 
 smaller block. 
 
 The tributaries of the Sabi River flowing near Zimbabwe 
 have been ill-defined on previous maps. The 'Mpopotekwe 
 joins the 'Mtelekwe and the 'Mshagashe flows into the united 
 stream a short distance south of Zimbabwe. This river, 
 under the name of the 'Mtelekwe, then flows into the Lunde, 
 and not to the Sabi direct. The Tokwe joins the Lunde 
 farther north. The most interesting geographical work that 
 we did was on our expedition to the Sabi River, and on that 
 from Fort Salisbury to 'Mtoko's, and down by Mangwendi's 
 and Makoni's country to Umtali. On our journey to the Sabi 
 we crossed a great many of its western tributaries ; and as the 
 same streams rose near the waggon- road, and we crossed 
 them pretty far down their courses, we were able to lay down 
 their direction for a considerable distance with certainty. 
 The Sabi River itself, in latitude 19 15', we found was placed 
 twenty miles too far west in former maps ; and from the in- 
 formation which I gathered from the natives, in the latitude 
 of Zimbabwe, it must be about fifty miles farther east than it is 
 placed in these maps. This river, where we struck it, was a 
 considerable stream flowing rapidly over a rocky bed. It had 
 fallen about 1,800 feet from its source near Fort Charter, and 
 had 2,700 feet more to fall before it reached the sea. When 
 it has received all the tributaries we crossed it must be a very 
 big river. 
 
 Going from Fort Salisbury to 'Mtoko's we crossed many 
 tributaries of the Mazoe River, which were either not shown 
 at all in former maps, or were most inaccurately placed. We 
 recrossed these streams again farther up returning from 
 'Mtoko's to Mangwendi's. I also got excellent views of them
 
 GEOGRAPHY AND METEOROLOGY 393 
 
 from the various mountains which I ascended, so that I was 
 able to lay them down in my map with certainty. To the 
 eastward of 'Mtoko's we could see the high veldt breaking 
 into mountain ranges as it descended towards Gouveia's 
 country. 
 
 Approaching Mangwendi's, and also going between Mang- 
 wendi's and Chipunza's, our way lay along a very high 
 watershed, on the western side of which rose some of the 
 eastern tributaries of the Sabi River, the most important of 
 which was the 'Msheke. At Makoni's we reached the highest 
 part of the plateau, and this is, with the exception of some 
 villages on Mount Yenya, the highest inhabited part of 
 Mashonaland. From Makoni's to Mount Yenya the country 
 is broken ; and the descent is very rapid, but on the east of 
 our route the descent is still more rapid and the mountains 
 more imposing. On the north side of Mount Yenya flows 
 the Odzi River, which is there a very considerable stream. 
 Mount Yenya is a most imposing mountain and the highest 
 in Mashonaland, with the exception of Mount Wedsa. It 
 rises to a height of 5,800 feet above sea level, and within 300 
 feet of its summit are several villages which own a consider- 
 able number of cattle. It probably represents the Mount 
 Doe which the Portuguese place on their maps about this 
 part, and which they say is 7,900 feet high, for certainly 
 there is no mountain near Mount Yenya of equal height. 
 Between Umtali and Massi-Kessi the country is extremely 
 mountainous, and the scenery is the grandest that we saw in 
 Mashonaland. We lost 1,400 feet in height between these 
 two places. A short distance after leaving Massi-Kessi we 
 crossed the Revwe River, and our way lay along a watershed 
 about 2,000 feet high. This watershed is thickly wooded, 
 and is traversed sometimes by deep ravines. On the left 
 hand the streams flow to the Pungwe River, and on the 
 right to the Revwe and the Muda and Mutuchiri Rivers.
 
 394 APENDICES 
 
 Approaching Sarmento, the country falls rapidly to nearly 
 sea level ; and thence to the coast we traversed a Hat alluvial 
 country through which the Pungwe River sluggishly flows. 
 This swan.py level country swarms with game, especially 
 towards the end of the dry season, but the vegetation is not 
 nearly so luxuriant as one would expect, and some parts of 
 this country are quite bare. 
 
 I have been careful throughout to spell the native names 
 in accordance with the rules laid down by the Royal 
 Geographical Society. The sound of the Bushman clicks 
 which occurs so often in the names of places and in the names 
 of tribes derived from the names of places, but most frequently 
 of all in the names of rivers, is slurred over by the present 
 tribes, and represented by a combination of letters. As I 
 know of no rule for the spelling of these sounds, I have 
 represented them by an inverted comma and the consonant 
 nearest in sound. In maps of Africa north of the Zambesi 
 these clicks are generally spelt in this way, although the 
 comma has often dropped out, as in words like ' Nyanza,' 
 ' Mpwapwa/ ' Mvnmi ; ' but south of that river cartographers 
 have been less accurate, and have often used various vowels 
 instead of the comma. I have used such mis-spellings of the 
 native names only when they have been long established and 
 passed into constant use : as ' Umtali ' and ' Inhambane.' 
 
 A point of interest in the remote history of the country 
 and of the ruins which we examined for the old people 
 doubtless entered the country by this coast is the growth 
 of the land at the mouth of the Pungwe River and around 
 Sofala. From about Sarmento down to Beira one passes over 
 a low alluvial country which has been slowly encroaching on 
 the sea for ages. I am sorry that in the rush to the coast I 
 did not have time to collect data to enable me to form any 
 idea of the quantity of mud deposited from the waters of the 
 Pungwe in a given time, but its waters hold in suspension a
 
 GEOGRAPHY AND METEOROLOGY 895 
 
 great quantity of tine clay derived from the decomposition of 
 the granite in its basin, and this is deposited where the river 
 enters the sea. The distance from Sarmento to Beira as the 
 crow flies is sixty-five miles, so that at some period the road 
 to the interior must have been shortened by this amount, and 
 even in early historical times some part of the journey across 
 the low fever belt would have been saved. The site of ancient 
 seaports will now be far inland, so it need not surprise us 
 that remains of these ports have not yet been found. 
 
 Owing to frequent absence from camp, I was unable to 
 read the thermometer and barometer as continuously and 
 regularly as I could have wished, but the readings which I 
 did take give us some idea of what the climate at Zimbabwe 
 was in June and July last year. We arrived there on 
 June 6, after a week of south-east winds, high barometer, 
 and rain and mist. The wind then gradually fell and the 
 barometer with it, and we had three weeks of fine calm 
 weather. The barometer reached its minimum on June 27, 
 and at the same time the difference of the readings of the 
 wet and dry bulb thermometers was at its maximum. The 
 air was then very dry and the sky clear, with light north 
 winds which were evidently local in origin, and the tempera- 
 ture at night fell below freezing-point, so that in the morning 
 we saw a light deposit of hoar-frost. Immediately after this 
 the barometer began to rise, there were light south-east 
 winds, the atmosphere became moister, and on July 4 the 
 south-east wind had increased considerably in strength, and 
 some rain fell. From this time until the end of our stay at 
 Zimbabwe, on August 2, the barometer slowly rose and 
 fell, its range being limited to about three-tenths of an inch ; 
 and whenever the south-east winds blew at all strongly 
 the barometer rose and we had mist and rain. We had 
 during this period generally about a half-day of rain each 
 week.
 
 396 APPENDICES 
 
 At first sight it' seems surprising that we should have 
 windy wet weather with a high barometer, but we must 
 remember that the only winds which can bring rain to Zim- 
 babwe, at least in winter, are the south-easterly winds, and 
 these, like all other winds blowing towards the equator, 
 increase the atmospheric pressure. Zimbabwe is situated on 
 the edge of a plateau about 3,400 feet above sea level. The 
 country breaks down gradually towards the south and east 
 and more rapidly towards the west, while towards the north 
 it rises gently until after about 100 miles it attains an 
 altitude of nearly 5,000 feet. The west winds, if they do blow, 
 have to traverse the continent and the high country about the 
 sources of the Limpopo before they reach Zimbabwe, so that 
 they will deposit their excess of moisture for the altitude of 
 Zimbabwe before reaching that place ; and the northerly 
 winds will tend to increase in temperature, and consequently 
 in dryness, after falling from the high country towards the 
 north; so that westerly and northerly winds will not part 
 with moisture at Zimbabwe. The predominant winds in 
 this latitude are the south-east trades, and they, carrying their 
 moisture from the Indian Ocean, are forced to rise as they 
 pass over this country, and they consequently expand and are 
 lowered in temperature and so deposit much of their moisture 
 on this edge of the high plateau. A similar winter climate 
 seems to prevail in most parts of Mashonalaiid, the edges of 
 the plateaux receiving most of the moisture. Manica is 
 situated much nearer the sea than Zimbabwe, and the country 
 there falls much more rapidly towards the east (it falls 1,400 
 feet in ten miles near Umtali), and consequently the rainfall 
 there is heavier. Fort Salisbury is better situated for a dry 
 winter, for it is in the middle of a high plateau, and the south- 
 east winds will have parted with most of their surplus moisture 
 for that altitude before they reach it. The driest time of the 
 year in Mashonaland is from August to November. I may
 
 GEOGRAPHY AND METEOROLOGY 397 
 
 mention that the greatest difference I observed in the readings 
 of the wet and dry bulb thermometers was 24 F. at the 
 'Mshabetsi River, at an altitude of 2,140 feet, on May 13 at 
 2 P.M. ; the readings being 64 and 88 respectively. At 
 Zimbabwe during June and July the difference in readings 
 varied from to 20 F.. and the dew point sometimes fell to 
 32 F. at midday. The extreme range of shade temperature 
 in the two months was 46 F. 
 
 D
 
 398 
 
 APPENDIX B 
 
 List of Stations in Mashonaland Astronomically 
 Observed, with Altitudes 
 
 By EGBERT M. W. SWAN, Esq. 
 
 Stations 
 
 Latitude 
 
 Longitude 
 
 Heights 
 
 
 o / ;/ 
 
 / // 
 
 feet 
 
 Mafeking .... 
 
 25 51 1 
 
 25 41 
 
 
 
 Bamathlabama River . 
 
 25 37 57 
 
 
 
 
 
 At Pan 
 
 25 30 13 
 
 25 8 15 
 
 
 
 Kanya, 11 miles S.S.E of 
 
 25 7 2 
 
 25 815 
 
 8580 
 
 Kanya ..... 
 
 24 58 30 
 
 25 16 
 
 3750 
 
 Molopolole .... 
 
 24 25 80 
 
 25 21 
 
 4020 
 
 Molopolole, 4 miles N. of 
 
 24 21 30 
 
 25 21 30 
 
 8872 
 
 Klippan, mile N. of . 
 
 24 17 12 
 
 
 
 4020 
 
 Kurumurwa .... 
 
 24 8 83 
 
 
 
 3570 
 
 Khemi 
 
 23 50 8 
 
 
 
 3490 
 
 Boatlenama, 15 miles S.E. of 
 
 23 42 20 
 
 25 35 30 
 
 3540 
 
 Boatlenama .... 
 
 23 32 30 
 
 
 
 3400 
 
 S. of Selinia Pan . 
 
 23 27 11 
 
 
 
 3120 
 
 N. of Selinia Pan . 
 
 23 20 51 
 
 26 3 15 
 
 3050 
 
 Near Hataloklu Vley 
 
 23 15 4 
 
 26 10 53 
 
 3140 
 
 S. of Shoshong 
 
 23 8 47 
 
 26 19 30 
 
 3160 
 
 Near Shoshong 
 
 23 4 
 
 26 28 
 
 3310 
 
 At stream .... 
 
 23 1 57 
 
 26 41 30 
 
 3260 
 
 Near Mahalapsi River . 
 
 22 57 41 
 
 26 51 15 
 
 3240 
 
 Chuloan Vley 
 
 22 46 
 
 27 6 30 
 
 3010 
 
 Palapwe . . 
 
 22 37 30 
 
 27 18 
 
 3150 
 
 At Lotsani Biver . 
 
 22 32 45 
 
 27 21 30 
 
 2740 
 
 At Lotsani Biver . . . 
 
 22 33 58 
 
 27 34 
 
 2480 
 
 At Lotsani Biver . 
 
 22 82 37 
 
 27 46 45 
 
 2450 
 
 Near Elibi Fort . 
 
 22 32 55 
 
 
 
 2300 
 
 Near Elibi Fort . 
 
 
 
 
 
 2230 
 
 At Muralla Vley . 
 
 22 32 55 
 
 28 10 30 
 
 2290 
 
 Makwenje Biver . 
 
 22 26 56 
 
 28 21 30 
 
 2275 
 
 Pakwe Biver .... 
 
 22 15 20 
 
 28 24 15 
 
 2400 
 
 1 The heights have been obtained with aneroid and boiling-point 
 thermometers, and with the exception of that of Zimbabwe, where we 
 stayed some time, are only approximate.
 
 ASTRONOMICAL OBSERVATIONS, WITH ALTITUDES 399 
 
 List of Stations in Mashonaland Astronomically Observed, 
 with Altitudes continued 
 
 Stations 
 
 Latitude 
 
 Longitude 
 
 Heights 
 
 
 O 1 II 
 
 / ! 
 
 feet 
 
 Marapong River . 
 
 22 7 38 
 
 28 31 
 
 2280 
 
 Matlaputla River . 
 
 22 3 39 
 
 
 
 
 
 Maklutsi Camp 
 
 22 42 
 
 28 38 15 
 
 2010 
 
 Maklutsi River 
 
 21 58 20 
 
 28 41 
 
 1870 
 
 Metsimacholnvan River 
 
 21 49 55 
 
 28 52 
 
 1920 
 
 Semalali .... 
 
 21 53 2 
 
 29 40 
 
 2080 
 
 Baobab Spruit 
 
 21 53 17 
 
 29 14 
 
 
 
 FortTuli .... 
 
 21 55 20 
 
 29 20 15 
 
 
 
 Ipagi River .... 
 
 21 51 59 
 
 29 36 15 
 
 
 
 Sigabi River .... 
 
 21 43 53 
 
 29 42 30 
 
 
 
 'Msingwan River . 
 
 21 39 7 
 
 29 48 15 
 
 1720 
 
 'Mshabetsi River . 
 
 21 26 22 
 
 29 57 15 
 
 2140 
 
 Mount Yanda 
 
 21 21 57 
 
 30 6 15 
 
 2330 
 
 Bubye River .... 
 
 21 20 30 
 
 30 14 
 
 2090 
 
 'Nyamanda .... 
 
 21 11 34 
 
 30 23 15 
 
 
 
 Mount Host .... 
 
 21 9 10 
 
 80 30 20 
 
 2250 
 
 Near Nwanetsi River 
 
 21 5 16 
 
 80 38 30 
 
 1910 
 
 Near Nwanesti River . 
 
 20 59 23 
 
 30 41 
 
 1880 
 
 Near Mount Ibonda 
 
 20 49 49 
 
 30 42 
 
 2130 
 
 Lunde River .... 
 
 20 41 6 
 
 30 44 45 
 
 1970 
 
 Near Naka Mountains . 
 
 20 35 54 
 
 30 45 
 
 2130 
 
 'Mlala 
 
 20 27 9 
 
 30 47 30 
 
 2580 
 
 Tokwe River .... 
 
 20 23 5 
 
 30 53 30 
 
 2380 
 
 Providential Pass . 
 
 20 11 11 
 
 30 57 45 
 
 3090 
 
 Fort Victoria 
 
 20 7 53 
 
 31 
 
 3380 
 
 Zimbabwe .... 
 
 20 16 30 
 
 31 7 30 
 
 3340 
 
 'Mshagashe River . 
 
 20 3 40 
 
 
 
 8200 
 
 Makori 
 
 19 38 29 
 
 30 58 30 
 
 4200 
 
 Chekatu .... 
 
 19 38 49 
 
 31 3 
 
 4100 
 
 Gona ..... 
 
 19 36 52 
 
 
 
 4350 
 
 'Msingana 
 
 19 31 30 
 
 
 
 3650 
 
 Kutimasinga'rt 
 
 19 38 19 
 
 31 37 
 
 3250 
 
 Lutile 
 
 19 84 12 
 
 
 
 3POO 
 
 Matindela .... 
 
 19 30 23 
 
 31 51 45 
 
 3350 
 
 Near Mount Wizindo 
 
 19 17 
 
 
 
 3250 
 
 Near Mwairari River . 
 
 19 14 56 
 
 32 2 45 
 
 2900 
 
 Mukubu River 
 
 19 8 45 
 
 32 4 15 
 
 2700 
 
 Sabi River .... 
 
 19 7 40 
 
 32 1 30 
 
 2900 
 
 Ampsai River 
 Zamopera .... 
 
 19 6 41 
 19 17 
 
 31 39 15 
 
 2950 
 3660 
 
 Mafusaire's .... 
 
 18 56 26 
 
 
 
 3950 
 
 East of Smet's Kraal . 
 
 18 51 25 
 
 
 
 
 
 West of Kwende's Kraal 
 
 18 48 25 
 
 31 25 45 
 
 4220 
 
 D P 2
 
 400 
 
 APPENDICES 
 
 List of Stations in Mashonaland Astronomically Observed, 
 with Altitudes continued 
 
 Stations 
 
 Latitude 
 
 Longitude 
 
 Heights 
 
 
 / // 
 
 1 II 
 
 feet 
 
 'Mtigesa's .... 
 
 18 48 30 
 
 31 16 45 
 
 4570 
 
 Fort Charter .... 
 
 18 35 40 
 
 31 9 45 
 
 4408 
 
 'Mfuli Biver .... 
 
 18 18 35 
 
 31 5 30 
 
 4080 
 
 Near stream .... 
 
 18 10 15 
 
 81 10 15 
 
 
 
 S. of Hanyani River 
 
 18 22 
 
 31 3 15 
 
 4800 
 
 Fort Salisbury 
 
 17 49 30 
 
 31 4 15 
 
 4820 
 
 Fleming's Camp, Mazoe Eiver 
 
 17 32 48 
 
 30 56 
 
 
 
 Yellow Jacket Mine, ditto 
 
 17 28 32 
 
 31 4 15 
 
 4030 
 
 Madelaywa's .... 
 
 17 48 30 
 
 31 12 
 
 
 
 Musungaikwa's 
 
 17 52 33 
 
 31 20 15 
 
 5010 
 
 Nora River .... 
 
 17 55 18 
 
 31 29 
 
 4470 
 
 Kunzi's 
 
 17 63 40 
 
 81 33 
 
 4400 
 
 Yandoro's .... 
 
 17 47 
 
 31 41 45 
 
 4720 
 
 Bambabashla's 
 
 17 40 30 
 
 31 48 
 
 4410 
 
 Mahume River 
 
 17 31 
 
 31 57 45 
 
 3420 
 
 Near Lutsa .... 
 
 17 23 30 
 
 32 9 
 
 3450 
 
 Near 'Mtoko's 
 
 17 23 50 
 
 32 14 
 
 3900 
 
 'Nyandea River 
 
 17 32 5 
 
 32 8 30 
 
 31500 
 
 'Nyamashupa River 
 
 17 39 22 
 
 32 2 15 
 
 3900 
 
 Near Mount Masunsgwai 
 
 17 50 12 
 
 31 54 15 
 
 4350 
 
 Yaungurukwe River 
 
 17 59 25 
 
 31 45 45 
 
 4700 
 
 Mangwendi's P.S. . 
 
 18 6 42 
 
 31 39 30 
 
 4870 
 
 Nyanger Mountain 
 
 18 15 20 
 
 31 46 
 
 4850 
 
 Chikamondi River . 
 
 18 21 6 
 
 31 56 30 
 
 4810 
 
 Mount Ruanda 
 
 18 22 30 
 
 32 7 30 
 
 4830 
 
 Chipunza's .... 
 
 18 27 30 
 
 32 10 15 
 
 4450 
 
 Near Chigono's 
 
 18 33 50 
 
 32 17 
 
 4450 
 
 Near Yenya Mountains . 
 
 18 45 
 
 32 22 45 
 
 3620 
 
 Odzi River drift 
 
 18 48 50 
 
 
 
 3420 
 
 'Mtasa's .... 
 
 18 44 30 
 
 32 29 
 
 4170 
 
 Umtali, our camp . 
 
 18 53 30 
 
 32 82 45 
 
 3600 
 
 Massi-Kessi (Portuguese camp] 
 
 18 53 45 
 
 32 44 30 
 
 2200 
 
 Mineni River 
 
 18 56 
 
 32 50 30 
 
 2140 
 
 Lusika River 
 
 18 59 27 
 
 83 2 
 
 2000 
 
 Vundusi River trib. . 
 
 18 59 10 
 
 33 13 
 
 2000 
 
 Near Chimoia's 
 
 18 59 
 
 33 20 
 
 2140 
 
 Zombana River 
 
 18 57 15 
 
 
 
 1930 
 
 Makumbese River . 
 
 19 2 10 
 
 
 
 120 
 
 Vley 
 
 19 8 35 
 
 
 
 100 
 
 Mutuchiri River . 
 
 19 16 40 
 
 
 
 50 
 
 Mpanda's .... 
 
 19 23 80 
 
 34 32 30 
 
 20
 
 401 
 
 APPENDIX G 
 
 Addenda to Chapter V 
 BY K. M. W. SWAN, Esq. 
 
 SINCE writing the preceding pages (Chapter V.) it has been 
 found to be possible from the measurements made at Zimbabwe 
 to determine the radius of another curve of the outer wall of 
 the great temple. This part of the wall extends from B in a 
 north-westerly direction for 111 feet, to a point which we 
 shall call c. The radius of its curve is 133 feet, so that the 
 diameter of the circle of which it is a part is equal to one half 
 of 17'17 x 3-14 3 , and the centre of the curve (which we shall 
 call w) is situated on the meridian line from the altar through 
 the main doorway. The middle point of this arc B c, the S.S.E. 
 doorway of the arc (J, the centres G and w, all lie in one and 
 the same straight line. This line cuts the meridian at an angle 
 of 30, and when produced will pass over the outer wall at a 
 point which is marked by a step which is built across the top 
 of the wall. A line drawn in a similar way from the middle 
 of the arc K B through the centre of the great tower, the altar, 
 and P, also cuts the meridian at an angle of 30, but from its 
 other side. As the original wall no longer exists at the 
 point where this line would pass we cannot say if its position 
 was marked on the wall. 
 
 These lines of sight seem to have been used, like the 
 meridian lines, for the observation of stars, but of stars off the
 
 402 APPENDICES 
 
 meridian. It could hardly have served any useful purpose to 
 observe several stars crossing these lines unless they all had the 
 same polar distance ; for stars with different polar distances 
 would cross the lines at different lengths of time before and after 
 their culminations. Nor, in the latitude of Zimbabwe, would 
 any individual star cross the lines at any important time in its 
 daily circuit. But if we suppose that this temple is built on 
 the model of one in the parent country in the northern 
 hemisphere, it is easy to imagine a useful purpose which these 
 lines may have served. In the latitude of Southern Arabia, 
 for instance, an observer facing north would see the North 
 Pole elevated about 15 above the horizon. If we compare 
 the northern portion of the sky to a watch dial, the stars will 
 represent the moving hands, the pole the centre of the dial, 
 the meridian the xn. and VI. hour-points, and the in. and IX. 
 hours will be marked by a horizontal line passing through the 
 pole east and west. When stars cross this line they may be said 
 to be at their east or west elongation. Now it seems probable 
 that the two lines in question would be used in the parent 
 country to observe a star having a north polar distance of 
 30 when it was at its east and west elongations and six hours 
 from the meridian. 
 
 We have before remarked that none of our trigonometrical 
 functions seem to have been recognised by the builders of 
 Zimbabwe, and that the angular values of the arcs are of no 
 special importance when measured in our way. But they m ust 
 have been of importance to the builders of the temples. The 
 locating of the centres of the arcs on the several meridian lines, 
 supposing the meridian lines were first laid down in planning 
 the temples (as the central one undoubtedly was in the great 
 temple), does not really determine the intersecting points of 
 the arcs ; for, were the centre moved along the meridian lines 
 in either direction, the points of intersection would change 
 their positions and the lengths of the arcs would be altered.
 
 ADDENDA TO CHAPTER V 403 
 
 The lengths of the arcs seem to have been determined by 
 the intersections of circles of radii different from those of the 
 arcs themselves, but the lengths of whose radii were deter- 
 mined by the same system as those of the arcs. The centres 
 of the intersecting circles are situated on the radius of the arc 
 which lies midway between its extremities, and the distance 
 between the arc and the intersecting circle measured on the 
 same radius produced is equal to the diameter of one of the 
 towers. 
 
 The arc AK is built on a curve of 107'8 feet radius ; and 
 if a circle be drawn as described with a radius of 169 - 3 feet, 
 it will determine the length of the chord of the arc at 107 
 feet, and the distance between the two arcs measured on the 
 middle radius will be 5 '45, which is equal to the diameter of 
 the little tower. 
 
 The arc KB treated in the same way, with a curve of 84'6 
 feet, and with a distance of 17*17 feet (the diameter of the 
 great tower) between, the intersecting circle and the arc, has 
 the length of its chord fixed at 129^ feet. These two lengths 
 of 107 and 129^ feet agree to within six inches with our actual 
 measurement of the wall itself. 
 
 If we apply our system to the arc BO in an exactly similar 
 manner, but with the distance between the circle and the arc 
 made equal to the radius of the great tower, we find that the 
 length of its chord should be 111 feet; and this also agrees 
 closely with our measurements. 
 
 The arc of the eastern temple on the hill has a radius of 
 42-3 feet, and if a circle of 169-3 feet be applied to it with a 
 distance of 17' 17 feet between the circle and the arc, we 
 find that the length of its chord should be 72 feet; and this is 
 exactly what we make it on our plan. This also explains the 
 hitherto inexplicable position of the eastern doorway. 
 
 In a similar way we determine the length of the chord of 
 the great wall in the western temple to be 140 feet ; but as the
 
 404 APPENDICES 
 
 ends of this wall are in a ruinous condition, and as the present 
 outer face is not of the original period, we cannot say whether 
 this was the actual measurement or not. 
 
 With two exceptions, there are no other arcs which are 
 sufficiently complete to allow us to ascertain their original 
 measurements. These exceptions are the arc in the little 
 temple at G, and that from the doorway to A. In the former 
 case, the length of the arc is fixed by the two doorways ; and 
 as one of these is placed north of the centre in order to permit 
 of observation along the meridian line, and the other is made 
 to serve the same purpose for the line GW, it is obvious why 
 the length of this arc was not determined in the same way. 
 In the latter case, as one end of the arc is at a northern door- 
 way, and as we are not quite certain of the length of the 
 radius of the arc itself, we have not attempted to determine 
 the length of its chord. 
 
 It is much to be desired that more of the plan of the 
 original temple should be recovered, and this can only be done 
 by careful excavation conducted by some one of experience in 
 the art ; for an inexperienced or careless workman could easily 
 and unwittingly remove any of the remaining mortarlesa 
 foundations without ever discovering that he had done so.
 
 405 
 
 APPENDIX D. 
 
 THE following notes have been kindly supplied by the Secre- 
 tary of the British South Africa Company : 
 
 Progress in Mashonaland summarised from November 1891 
 to May 1893. 
 
 HEALTH. 
 
 The rainy season of 1891 to 1892 found the settlers in 
 Mashonaland well housed and with an abundance of pro- 
 visions ; in consequence, a wonderful improvement was mani- 
 fested in the health of the community, proving that the 
 insufficiency of food and shelter, necessarily associated with 
 the initial occupation of a wild country so many hundreds of 
 miles from a base of supply, was mainly responsible for the 
 sickness of the rainy season of 1890-1891. 
 
 The Senior Medical Officer of the British South Africa 
 Company reported early in 1892 that not a single case of 
 fever had arisen among the inhabitants of Salisbury during 
 the worst part of the wet season ; in every case the patient 
 had contracted his fever elsewhere, and there had been no 
 deaths at all from climatic causes in Salisbury or its district. 
 He adds : ' Good food, good clothing, shelter from inclement 
 weather and the sun, an abundant supply of medicines and 
 invalid necessaries and a milder season have wrought an 
 enormous improvement in the general health of the people.
 
 406 APPENDICES 
 
 and Mashonaland of 1 892 is not recognisable as Maslioiialand 
 of 1891.' 
 
 The general health has been equally good in the rainy 
 season of 1892-3, and the experience of the last two years 
 has shown that perfect health may be enjoyed by anyone who 
 will avoid undue exposure and will observe a few simple 
 precautions. 
 
 TOWNSHIPS 
 
 Progress in the townships of Salisbury, Victoria, and 
 Umtali has been rapid. 
 
 At Salisbury 1,800 stands have been surveyed and mapped 
 out; at Victoria 572 stands, and at Umtali 300. In July 
 1892 a sale of stands was held at the three places mentioned 
 above, 70 at Salisbury being sold for 2,250Z., 150 at Victoria 
 for 6,107Z., and 44 at Umtali for 1,396., the total sum 
 realised being nearly 10,OOOZ. for 264 stands. It is intended 
 to hold another sale in July of this year, where competition 
 no doubt will be keen, as the attention of capitalists in 
 England, as well as those on the spot, is being directed to the 
 matter. 
 
 The public buildings at Salisbury, such as the Adminis- 
 trator's Offices, the Standard Bank Offices, the Police Station, 
 Magazine, Court House, Survey, Mines, Post and Telegraph 
 Offices, are already completed or on the verge of completion. 
 All the material required for these buildings has been drawn 
 from the district itself, with the exception of wood for doors, 
 skirting, and architraves. 
 
 A Sanitary Board has been formed at Salisbury to manage 
 the affairs of the township with a revenue derived from one- 
 half the stand-rents (10s. per month) and other fees, such as 
 market dues. 
 
 A branch of the Standard Bank was opened at Salisbury 
 on July 20, 1892, and is doing a very good business. A
 
 PROGRESS IN MASHONALAND 407 
 
 printed newspaper, the Rhodesia Herald, is also published 
 there weekly. 
 
 The Mining Commissioner for Victoria reported on Sep- 
 tember 24, 1892, as follows : 
 
 ' The township of Victoria is growing very fast, and very 
 good buildings are being erected, the majority being com- 
 posed of brick and iron or brick and thatch ; they are far 
 superior to those erected at Kimberley, Barberton, or 
 Johannesburg. The town has only been surveyed a few 
 months, and progress made is very good. This shows that 
 the people have every confidence in the mining and general 
 prospects of Mashonaland.' 
 
 Victoria also possesses a newspaper, the Mashonaland 
 Times and Mining Chronicle. 
 
 As regards hotels, there are several most substantial 
 buildings of brick and iron offering excellent accc mmodation 
 at Salisbury, and between Victoria and Salisbury there are 
 wayside hotels at the various post-stations. Victoria itself 
 possesses two, and others are to be found every 20 miles or 
 so along the 200 miles of road connecting Victoria with Tuli. 
 At the latter place there is an excellent hotel, conducted by 
 the Tuli Hotel Company. 
 
 On the Salisbury-Uintali Road and at Umtali wayside 
 houses and hotels have been established, and their number 
 will no doubt be augmented on the completion of the Beira 
 Railway. 
 
 ROADS. 
 
 The existing roads have been kept up and improved, and 
 under Mr. Selous's superintendence new ones have been 
 made in many directions connecting Fort Salisbury with the 
 various gold-fields and with the main road to the Pungwe. 
 
 During 1892 Mr. Selous constructed an excellent rcfad 
 from Umtali to Chimoio, a distance of over 70 miles, to meet
 
 408 APPENDICES 
 
 the head of the Beira Eailway. The road will be available 
 for heavy waggons at all seasons of the year. Two road- 
 making parties are engaged at the present time in maintaining 
 and improving it. 
 
 BEIRA RAILWAY. 
 
 Satisfactory progress is being made with the Beira Rail- 
 way, the first section of which from Fontes Villa (about 
 48 miles up the Pungwe from Beira) to Chimoio, a distance 
 of 75 miles, will be opened by the end of July. 
 
 The embankments are completed for 65 miles and the 
 permanent way for 50, but the curves in some places, es- 
 pecially in the last few miles, are sharp, owing to the broken 
 and hilly nature of the country. Special rails for these 
 curves have had to be procured from England and are now on 
 their way out. By the time they arrive at the end of June 
 ail the earthworks will be finished, and they will then only 
 have to be linked to complete the railway through the fly- 
 belt. It is this fly-belt which has hitherto opposed such an 
 insuperable obstacle to the importation of heavy goods by 
 this otherwise easy, cheap, and convenient route. 
 
 It is estimated that the cost of transport of goods from 
 Cape Town to Salisbury will thus be decreased by more than 
 20Z. per ton, and it will then be possible to import machinery 
 &c. at rates which compare favourably with those which 
 obtained at the Eandt before the recent completion of the 
 line to Johannesburg. 
 
 On completion of the first section, the construction of the 
 second section as far as Salisbury will be pressed on with, 
 transport being carried on in the meantime by services of 
 waggons on the Chimoio-Umtali Road, alluded to above.
 
 PROGRESS IN MASHONALAND 409 
 
 AGRICULTURE. 
 
 The main occupations of settlers have been gold mining 
 and farming. 
 
 Favourable reports of the country from an agricultural 
 and pastoral point of view have on several occasions been 
 furnished by deputations of experienced farmers appointed at 
 public meetings, both in the Cape Colony and the Orange 
 Free State, to inspect and report upon the land. As the 
 result of these reports, large ' treks ' of farmers from those 
 countries have already proceeded, and will be followed shortly 
 by others, to occupy tracts of land in Mashonaland. 
 
 A recent return from the Surveyor-General's Office at 
 Salisbury shows that farms representing a total area of 
 3,178 square miles or 2,000,000 acres have been granted and 
 located, nearly one-half having been properly surveyed in 
 addition. Grants of land for farms of 3,000 acres in extent 
 at an annual quit rent of 3Z. were obtainable during 1892, 
 but so many applications were received that these practically 
 free grants have been altogether suspended, and the price of 
 land is fixed for the present at 9d. per acre subject to the 
 annual quit rent. 
 
 Farming operations in Mashonaland should offer special 
 advantages, owing to the proximity of the various gold-fields, 
 which have always afforded markets at most remunerative 
 rates for all farm produce, and will no doubt continue to do 
 so in the future in an even greater degree. 
 
 The most important of the deputations above referred to 
 upon inspection estimated that in the parts of the country 
 visited there were at least 40,000 square miles well adapted 
 for colonising purposes. When it is remembered that the 
 area of Mashonaland and Matabeleland is 125,000 square 
 miles, and that not one-half of this extent of country was 
 seen by the deputation, it will be generally conceded that
 
 410 APPENDICES 
 
 their estimate, large as it is, admits of considerable amplifi- 
 cation. 
 
 It may be incidentally mentioned, dealing with quite 
 another part of the British South Africa Company's terri- 
 tories, viz. the sphere north of the Zambesi, which amounts 
 to upwards of 500,000 square miles, that most favourable 
 reports of its mineral and agricultural resources have been 
 furnished by such well-known travellers as Joseph Thomson 
 and Alfred Sharpe. 
 
 GOLD. 
 
 The attention of the majority of the population has mainly 
 been directed to the exploitation of the gold reefs, and in 
 spite of difficulties arising from want of transport and from 
 ignorance of the country, a great deal of solid development 
 has been achieved. 
 
 Owing to various causes, it was not until July 1891 that 
 regular workings were commenced. Since that time pro- 
 specting has been carried on in a systematic and efficient 
 manner, resulting in the discovery of the gold-bearing 
 districts of Victoria, Manica, Hartley Hill, Mazoe, and Lo 
 Magondas, having a total area of 27,000 square miles. It is 
 believed that the gold- belt starting from Umtali passes 
 through Victoria, and will in all probability connect with the 
 gold-belt stretching eastward from the Tati gold-fields in the 
 western portion of Matabeleland, and on which considerable 
 development work has been done.' 
 
 Fresh discoveries on a large scale have recently been 
 made within 15 miles of Salisbury. The latest cable intelli- 
 gence states that in these new fields the reefs proved to 
 40 and 60 feet are as rich and as wide as at the surface. 
 Gold-belts have also recently been discovered at Mt. Darwin, 
 about 80 miles north of Mazoe, at points 120 miles north 
 of Umtali (Manica) and 80 miles south of the same place,
 
 PROGRESS IN MASHONALAND 411 
 
 and on the Tokwe River about 30 miles west of Victoria. 
 The gold formations at the above places are all very extensive, 
 show visible freely, and give very rich pannings, while they 
 cannot be said to have been developed at all up to the 
 present. Another series of reefs, which are described as 
 being phenomenally rich by the British South Africa 
 Company's Administrator, have just been discovered in the 
 commonage at Umtali. 
 
 The immense cost of importing even the lightest stamp 
 batteries has, of course, retarded the gold industry to an 
 enormous extent, but the completion of the Beira Railway 
 will work a great change in this respect. What crushings 
 have taken place show very rich results. The average yield 
 from several hundred tons of ore extracted from all reefs in 
 the Victoria district, good and bad together, was 18*3 dwt. 
 per ton, or about 73s. It has, however, been proved in 
 practice that mining operations even under present con- 
 ditions can be carried on in Mashonaland at a cost not ex- 
 ceeding 20s. per ton, leaving the very handsome profit of 
 53s. for every ton crushed in the above district. 
 
 In a cablegram recently received from the Company's 
 administrator on his return from a tour of inspection of the 
 various mining districts he states that new finds were 
 occurring everywhere daily, and that crushings were every- 
 where successful ; that the reefs were improving with depth, 
 and that wonderful development was proceeding in every 
 district. As regards alluvial gold, that large deposits do 
 exist, and that their discovery is only a question of time, is 
 the opinion of all experienced miners. That this time has 
 now arrived seems probable from a cable message recently 
 received reporting that 50 oz. of alluvial gold had been 
 brought into Salisbury, causing great excitement there. 
 Should, however, alluvial fields, so valuable to a new country 
 from their power of attracting a large mining population,
 
 412 APPENDICES 
 
 never be discovered, it may not be too much to say the 
 progress that has been made in so short a time, and the 
 enormous extent and richness of the auriferous reefs being 
 taken into consideration that the time cannot be far distant 
 wheu Mashonaland will assume a leading position amongst 
 the principal gold-producing countries of the world.
 
 INDEX 
 
 ABA 
 
 ABANTU charms, 39 ; origin of 
 the name Zimbabwe, 234 
 
 Abyssinia, Mr. Salt's exploration 
 in, 229 
 
 ^Elian on vultures, 185 ; on 
 Egyptian sacrifice, 20 1 J 
 
 .(Ethiopia, Sabieau city in. 230 
 
 Africa, Ph<*-nician circumnavi- 
 gation, 225 ; Arab extension in, 
 229 ; Arab opposition to Por- 
 tuguese, 235 ; .Roman penetra- 
 tion through, 23 ( J; extent of 
 Portuguese influence in, 243 
 
 East : Greek and Roman 
 knowledge of, 225 ; ancient 
 gold-mining population, 228 ; 
 Sabsean possession of, 22J ; 
 Portuguese enterprise, 230 ; 
 wild tribes of, 232; Abou 
 Zeyd's description of the 
 Zindj tribes, 233 ; wealth of 
 gold in, 234 ; curious birds, 
 292 
 
 South : British Chartered 
 Company of, expedition 
 assisted by, 4 ; Dr. Emil 
 Holub's work on, 95 
 
 South-East : ancient pro- 
 ducts sent as tribute to Egypt, 
 226 
 
 Alvarez, Pory's translation of, 
 240 ; on the god of the Mono- 
 matapa, 342 
 
 Agatharcides on the wealth of 
 the Sabicans, 227 
 
 AXU 
 
 Agizymba, Ptolemy's mention 
 of, 239 
 
 Aizanes, King, victory of, 229 
 
 Anderson, Mr. A. A., rock carv- 
 ings discovered in Bechuana- 
 land by, 199, 200 
 
 Aphrodite, stone head of, wor- 
 shipped by the Ismaelitcs, 
 1 1 J5 
 
 Arab settlement at Rhapta, 224 
 
 Arabia, tower worship in, 110; 
 Himyaritic supremacy in, 
 186 ; Herodotus on native 
 worship, 190 ; Herr Kremer 
 on the ancient cult, 195 ; 
 Biblical allusions to wealth 
 of, 220, 227 ; ancient know- 
 ledge of monsoons, 224 ; trad- 
 ing emporia on the Red Sea, 
 225 ; exportation of gold to 
 Rome, 227 ; Horace on wealth 
 of, 227 ; ancient enterprise, 
 229 ; Sabsean cities in, 230 ; 
 Herr Kremer on tribal system 
 of totems, 331 
 
 Argonautic expedition, 225 
 
 Asmnolean Museum, stone 
 carvings from the Soudan in, 
 136 
 
 ' Asia, De,' by M. De Barros, 
 238 
 
 Asia Minor, mythical inhabi- 
 tants of, 222 
 
 Axume, Abyssinia, ancient Greek 
 inscription at, 229 
 
 E E
 
 414 
 
 INDEX 
 
 BAG 
 
 BRI 
 
 BACOTO, ancient Portuguese 
 market in Ma/oe valley, 29,3 
 
 Bahrein islands, Persian Gulf, 
 tombs in, 121 
 
 Ba-kalahari tribe, 14 
 
 Bakalanga tribes in Natal, 33 
 
 Ba-mangwato tribe at Palapwe, 
 23 ; beer- drinking, 25 ; witch- 
 doctors, ib. ; superstition, ib. ; 
 women of and civ.lisa.ion, 27 
 
 Bandiri, early Portuguese in- 
 fluence at, 298 
 
 Bandula, kraal of, 374 
 
 Ba-Ngwatetse tribe, 7 ; soldiers, 
 10 
 
 Baobab trees, 135 
 
 Ba-qnaina tribe, 15 
 
 Baramazimba, a fantastic kraal 
 near Zimbabwe, 85 
 
 Barbosa, Duaite, on the gold 
 trade of Sofala, 231 
 
 Baretto, disastrous campaigns 
 of, 243 
 
 Ba-rolongs of Mafeking, 7 
 
 Barros, De, on the Mashonaland 
 ruins, 238 
 
 Basuto skill in stone-building, 347 
 
 Batuen, chief of Kanya, 6, 7 ; 
 under missionary influence, 
 8; his tribal gatherings, 9; his 
 household, ib. ; his slaves and 
 soldiers, 10; his parents, ib. 
 
 Bechuanaland, British influence 
 in, 5 ; Crown colony in, 6 ; 
 boundaries of, ib. ; roads 
 through, ib. ; ' Ally Sloper ' in, 
 7; cattle disease, 8; inoculation 
 of oxen, ib. ; native justice, 
 9; native soldiers, 10; funeral 
 of a chief, ib. ; music and 
 dancing, 11, 12 ; marriage and 
 divorce, 13 ; derivation of 
 name, 15 ; tribal worship of 
 crocodiles, ib. ; produce, 16 ; 
 gardens and fields, ib.; jungle 
 travel, 17 ; flora and fauna, 
 18 ; cattle stations, 19 ; tribal 
 
 migration, 21 ; Border Police 
 at Macloutsie, 22 ; baboons at 
 Palapwe, 24 ; drought in, 30 ; 
 rock carvings discovered by 
 Mr. Anderson, 199, 200 
 
 Beira, waste of provisions at, 
 233 ; steamer from, to Cape, 
 302 ; journey from Umtali to, 
 S65 ; unhealthy condition of 
 port, 385 ; proposed railway 
 to the interior, 386 
 
 Benoula, in 'Mtoko's kraal, 327 ; 
 accompanies author on a visit 
 to the lion priest at Lutzi, ib. 
 
 Bessa range, as viewed from 
 Zimbabwe, 75 
 
 Bethencourt, Portuguese com- 
 mandant at Massi-Kessi, 370 
 
 Bocarro, Antonio, on Portuguese 
 exploration in Africa, 243 ; on 
 the empire of the Monoma- 
 tapa, 339 
 
 Bochiko, village chief in Kunzi's 
 country, 312 ; his remarkable 
 appearance, 313; his wives and 
 children, ib. 
 
 Bceotia, relics from Thebes, 205 
 
 Boer expedition in Mashona- 
 land, 244 
 
 Bondoro worship in Mang- 
 wendi's country, 340 
 
 Britain, ancient, tin ingots found 
 in, 216 ; mythical inhabitants 
 of, 222 
 
 British Association, expedition 
 to Mashonaland assisted by, 4 
 
 British Chartered Companj- of 
 South Africa. See ' Chartered ' 
 
 British Museum, Egyptian pil- 
 low in the, 37 ; African 
 musical instruments, 81 ; 
 Phoenician sepulchral stelae 
 in, 189 ; lebes from temple 
 at Kaucratis, 201 ; iron bells 
 from the Congo, 311, 312 
 
 Brittany, avenues of menhirs 
 near Carnac, 132
 
 INDEX 
 
 415 
 
 BUP 
 
 Bnfwa mountains, 43 
 Buzi river, early Portuguese in- 
 fluence on the, 298 
 
 CABIRI ruins at Hadjar Kein in 
 Malta, 116 
 
 Cahal, Alvarez de, Port igueso 
 explorer, 231 ; his entry into 
 Sofala harbour, ib. ; Arab 
 gold-laden dhows, ib. 
 
 Cairo, Portuguese at, 230 
 
 Cambridge, cylindrical object 
 from Cyprus hi Fitzwilliam 
 Museum at, 204 
 
 Camac, Brittany, avenues of 
 menhirs near, 132 ; mythical 
 builders of, 222 
 
 Charter fort, Makalanga tribes 
 at, 32 ; arrival of expedition 
 at, 277 ; parting with native 
 servants, ib. 
 
 Chartered Company of South 
 Africa, author's obligations to, 
 4 ; pioneers in Mashonaland, 
 240 ; difficulty in catering at 
 Fort Salisbury, 282 ; punish- 
 ment of Kaffirs by officers of, 
 299 
 
 Chekatu, village of, 254 ; Mata- 
 bele raid on, ib. ; female 
 barber at, ib. 
 
 Cherumbila, native chief, 89 ; 
 visit to his kraal, 90 ; descrip- 
 tion thereof, ib. ; his raids 
 upon neighbouring tribes, ib. ; 
 interview with, ib. ; Matabele. 
 raid upon, ib. ; his hospitality, 
 91 
 
 Chibi's country, 44; native iron- 
 smelting, 45 ; pot-making, ib. ; 
 granaries, 48 ; rats and mice, 
 ib. ; native costumes. 49 
 
 Chiburga, Monomatapa's strong- 
 hold for wives, 267 
 
 Chiburwe mountain, north of 
 
 COR 
 
 Matindela, ruins of fort near, 
 100, 135, 140; gigantic bao- 
 bab tree, 140 ; Makalanga out- 
 post, 267 ; holes for Isafuba 
 game, ib. ; miserable villages 
 around, ib. ; trackless forests 
 in vicinity, 268 ; ruin there, 
 ib. 
 
 Chldima, the Monomatapa of; 
 Portuguese accounts of, 331, 
 332 ; silver-mining at, 332 
 
 Chigono village, 355 ; its won- 
 derful position, ib. 
 
 Chilondillo fort, ruins of, 135 
 
 Chilonga fort, ruins of, 100 
 
 Chimbi river, underground pas- 
 sage near, 346 
 
 Chimoia, kraal of, 375 ; fertility 
 of country, 376 ; lions in vici- 
 nity, 377 
 
 China, Celadon pottery from, in 
 Zimbabwe, 204 
 
 Chipadzi village in Mazoe valley, 
 294 ; ruins near, ib. 
 
 Chipiez, M. See Perrot and 
 Chipiez, MM. 
 
 Chipunza's village, wall-building 
 in, 339 ; interesting ruin near, 
 346 ; aspect of the country, 
 348 ; camping in, ib. ; native 
 craving fur salt, 349 ; inter- 
 view with chief, 351 ; savage 
 etiquette, ib. ; beer and beer- 
 drinking, 351, 352 ; native 
 courtesy, 352 ; fortress at, 353 ; 
 Chipadzi's tomb, ib. 
 
 Colonial Institute, Mr. E. A. 
 Maund's lecture at the, on 
 ancient gold-mining in Mas- 
 honaland, 290 
 
 Conder, Major, on the circular 
 ruin near the Lundi river, 103 
 
 Congo river, discovery of iron 
 bells on the, 211 
 
 Corvo on Portuguese exploration 
 in Africa, 243 ; on the ancient 
 gold-mines in Mazoe valley,
 
 416 
 
 IXDEX 
 
 cou 
 
 295 ; on early Portuguese en- 
 terprise in Mashonaland, 290 
 Couto, Portuguese author, 33 
 Covilham, Pedro de, Portuguese 
 explorer, 230 ; his death in 
 Abyssinia, ib. 
 
 Cyprus, Phoenician coin fourd 
 in, 186 ; excavations in, 204 
 
 DALMATIA, ingot mould found in, 
 
 21G 
 
 Dapper's description of Masho- 
 naland ruins, 240 
 Deir-el-Bahari, monuments of, 
 
 226 
 Delft pottery in Mazoe valley, 
 
 296 
 Dendema in occupation of Zcndj 
 
 tribes, 283 
 
 Denderah, zodiac of, 186 
 Diodorus on tin ingots found in 
 
 ancient Britain. 216 ; on the 
 
 Egyptian gold-mines at Wadi 
 
 Allaga, 218 
 
 Dutch nomenclature, 17, 18 
 Dyer, Mr. Thiselton, Director of 
 
 Kew Gardens, on the age of 
 
 the baobab, 135, 136 
 
 EDRISI, geographer, on Zendj 
 
 tribes of East Africa, 233 
 Egyptian gold-mines in Wadi 
 
 Allaga, 218 ; commerce ou 
 
 the Red Sea, 226 
 Elibi river, ruin near, 99 
 Ernesa, Syria, temple of the sun 
 
 at, 204 
 Eratosthenes, historian, on 
 
 Arabian tribes, 229 
 Evans, Sir John, on ingot mould 
 
 found in Dalmatia, 216 
 Ezekiel's denunciation of Tyre, 
 
 227 
 
 ORE 
 
 FALLOW-PAUNCHES, a wild tribe 
 of the Kalahari desert, 14 
 
 Falmouth, ingot of tin found in 
 harbour of, 216; Sir Henry 
 James's pamphlet on, ib. 
 
 Farao, Signer, governor of 
 Senna, on regal burials at 
 Magonio, 846 
 
 Fitzwilliarn Museum at Cam- 
 bridge, cylindrical marble 
 object from Cyprus, 204 
 
 Forbes, Major, destruction of 
 Kaffir village by, 299 
 
 France, mythical inhabitants of, 
 222 
 
 GAMA, Vasco da, Portuguese 
 
 explorer. 230 
 Gambidji country, 270; extent 
 
 of, 272; tattooed women in, 
 
 305 
 Gamitto, Portuguese traveller, 
 
 on lion worship, 331 
 Gasetsive, chief of Kanya, 8 ; 
 
 death and funeral of, 10 ; 
 
 visit to his widow, ib. 
 Gaza, kraal of, 314 
 Geographical Society, PiO3 - al, 
 
 expedition assisted by, 4 ; 
 
 Museum at Lisbon, 212 
 Girandali, native bearer from 
 
 Kunzi's kraal, 312 
 Glaser, Herr Edward, Arabian 
 
 traveller, 230 
 Godobgwe stream, 50 
 Gona, village of, 257 : larder 
 
 trees at, 257, 258 ; savage orna- 
 ments of inhabitants, 258 ; 
 
 growth of tobacco, ib. ; rice- 
 
 nelds, ib. ; prosperity of kraal, 
 
 ib. 
 Gouveia, a Portuguese half-caste 
 
 in 'Mtoko country, 318 
 Greece, mythical inhabitants of, 
 
 222 ; ancient legends of, 225
 
 INDEX 
 
 417 
 
 GUN 
 
 JOM 
 
 Gungunyana, Znlu chief, raids 
 
 of, 263 
 Gutu, Makalanga chief of Gona, 
 
 257 
 
 HADJAR KEM, Malta, Cabiri 
 temple ruins at, 116 
 
 Hamjjden, Mount, isolation of, 
 285 
 
 Harris, Mr. F. E., Secretary of 
 British South Africa Company, 
 his letter to Chief 'Mtoko, 
 302 
 
 Hartley Hills, gold workings 
 near, 289 
 
 Hatasou, Queen of Egypt, ingots 
 of gold sent from kingdom of 
 Punt to, 221 ; native expedi- 
 tion in reign of, 226 
 
 Hayman, Captain, conquers Por- 
 tuguese at Massi-Kessi, 368 ; 
 guns and ammunition captured 
 by troops of, 369 
 
 Heany and Johnson. Messrs., 
 pioneer work in Mashonaland, 
 371; failure of their expedition, 
 377 
 
 Hepburn, Mr., missionary at 
 Pa lap we, 24 
 
 Herodian's description of the 
 sacred cone in Syrian temple, 
 204 
 
 Herodotus on the origin of the 
 phallus, 188 ; on the worship 
 of the Arabians, 190 ; on 
 Egyptian sacrifice, 209 ; on 
 the circumnavigation of 
 Africa, 225 
 
 Hierapolis, Mesopotamia, temple 
 at, 117, 185 ; phalli in temple 
 at, 188 
 
 Himyaritic supremacy in Arabia, 
 186 ; inscriptions, 230 
 
 Hippalus and his knowledge of 
 monsoons, 224 
 
 Hogarth, Ur., and the excava- 
 
 tions at Paphos, in Cyprus, 
 
 234 
 Holub, Dr. Emil, ' Seven Years 
 
 in South Africa ' by, 95 
 Horace on Arabian wealth, 227 
 llorapollo on the vulture, 185 
 
 IGUZU, native servant attached 
 to author's expedition, 278 ; 
 accompanies author to chief 
 'Mtoko's country, 302 
 
 Ikomo, brother to the chief of 
 Zimbabwe, 73 ; his kraal on 
 Zimbabwe hill, 75 ; taking 
 leave of, 84 
 
 Imiridzi, village of, 256 ; knit- 
 ting industry at, ib. 
 
 Impakwe river, Mr. E. A. 
 Maund's description of ruins, 
 99 ; Mr. Moffat's account, ib. 
 
 Inyagurukwe, native search for 
 gold at, 337 
 
 Inyamanda, arrival of expedition 
 at, 34 ; trade at, ib. ; scarcity 
 of meat, 35 ; human vultures, 
 ib. ; flora, ib. ; villages, ib. ; 
 rock tunnel, ib. ; family 
 charms, 39 ; view from sum- 
 mit of rock, 41 
 
 Inyota mountain, ancient gold- 
 workings in, 294 
 
 Inyuni range, as viewed from 
 Zimbabwe, 75 
 
 Isafuba game, holes for, 287 
 
 Ishmaehtes, fetichism of, 195 
 
 JAMES, Sir Henry, on tin ingot 
 
 found in Falmouth Harbour, 
 
 216 
 John IT., King of Portugal, 
 
 equips an expedition to Africa, 
 
 230 
 Johnson, Mr. See Heany and 
 
 Johnson, Messrs. 
 Jomvga, a curious granite
 
 418 
 
 INDEX 
 
 JUM 
 
 mountain in Kunzi country, 
 315 
 
 Jumbo mine in Mazoe valley, 
 296 
 
 KAABA stone at Mecca, 195 
 
 Kaffir beer, 58 ; language, ib. ; 
 cemetery near Zimbabwe, 
 121 ; habitation, 179 ; trilies 
 at Zimbabwe, 210 ; instru- 
 ments enumerated by Dos 
 Santos, 212 ; manufacture of 
 iron ingots, 218 ; death-wail- 
 ing in villages, 303 
 
 Kalahari desert route, 14 
 
 Kalirnazondo, kraal of, 334 ; 
 interview with chief, ib. ; 
 camp of Mr. Selous at, 333 
 
 Kanya, road to, 7 ; town of, 9 ; 
 its inhabitants, ib. ; character 
 of scenery, 11 
 
 Karnak, Egyptian temples at, 
 138 
 
 Kerbela, Mohammedan burial 
 at, 121 
 
 Khama, native chief, 6 ; cattle 
 disease in country of, 8 ; 
 migration of his tribe, 21 ; his 
 reputation, 23; his power 
 and intolerance, 25 ; his 
 reli</ious enthusiasm, ib. ; 
 prohibits beer-drinking among 
 his tribe, 25 ; his discipline, 
 26 ; interview with, 28 
 
 Kharabit, Sabsean king, East 
 Africa in possession of, 229 
 
 Kimberley, purchases at, 5 
 
 Kirk, Sir John, at Quiloa, 205 
 
 Kremer, Herr, on the solstitial 
 use of emblems, 186 ; on the 
 ancient cult of Arabia, 195 ; 
 his allusions to stone-worship, 
 ib. ; on the Arabian system of 
 totems, 331 
 
 Eum, Mohammedan burial at, 
 121 
 
 Kunzi country, description of 
 
 LUN 
 
 chief, 306 ; iron-smelting fur- 
 nace in, 307 ; hospitality of 
 chief's brother Gwadeli, 308 ; 
 interesting relics obtained by 
 auihor, 309 ; woman's dress of 
 woven bark fibre, ib. ; fetich- 
 ism in, 310 ; bathing and 
 washing, ib. ; chiefs wives, 
 311 ; native fishing, ib. ; 
 dainty viands, 312 ; love of salt, 
 ib. ; hand-clapping and greet- 
 ings, ib. ; native bracelets, 
 313 ; Mount Jomvga, 315 
 
 LIMPOPO river, ruins near junc- 
 tion with the Elibi, 99 ; 
 ancient gold-mines in vicinity, 
 ib. 
 
 Linchwe, native chief, 6, 11 
 
 Lisbon, Geographical Society's 
 Museum at, 212 
 
 Livingstone, Dr., at Shoshongi 
 23 
 
 Livouri range, as viewed from 
 Zimbabwe, 75 
 
 Lobengula, King of Matabele- 
 land, 6 ; raids of, 22, 237, 263 ; 
 and plural births, 316 
 
 Lockyer, Prof. Norman, on 
 Egyptian temples at Karnak, 
 138; on the zodiac of Den- 
 derah, 186 
 
 Lopodxi river, 375 
 
 Lotsani river, crossing the. 29 
 
 Louvre, Phoenician column ot 
 m irble in the, 188 ; reuiai ks by 
 MM. Perrot and Chipiez, 189 
 
 Luanhe, ancient Portuguese mar- 
 ket in Mazoe valley, 295 
 
 Lucian's ' De Syria Dea,' 117 ; 
 description of the temple at 
 Hierapolis, 185 ; allusion to 
 Greek amulets, 187 
 
 Lundi river, crossing the, 42 ; 
 adjacent population, 43 ; agri- 
 culture near, 44 ; ruins in 
 vicinity, 100; description of
 
 INDEX 
 
 419 
 
 LUT 
 
 MAS 
 
 circular fort ruin near, ib. ; 
 dimensions of ruin, 156 ; orna- 
 mental patterns on ruined 
 temple, 104 
 
 Luti, village of, 201 
 
 Lutilo mountain, 201 ; deer in 
 vicinity, ib. 
 
 Lutzi, author's stay at village of, 
 310 ; interview with lion 
 priest, 328 ; festivities at, 330 
 
 MACLOUTSIE, Border Police at, 22 
 
 Madera, Portuguese Colonel, 
 boycotts English immigrants 
 in Mapanda's country, 379 
 
 Mafeking, stay of expedition at, 
 5 ; routes from, C ; Ba-rolong 
 tribe of, 7 
 
 Mafusaire, village of, 271 ; first 
 white lady in, ib. ; tomb of a 
 chief, ib. 
 
 Magonio mountains, 340 
 
 Makalanga tribes, 32 ; their 
 vanity, 37 ; ornaments for 
 head, 38 ; witchcraft, 39; 
 domestic implements, ib. ; 
 anklets and necklaces, 40 ; 
 character, 55 ; religion, 56 ; 
 musical instruments, 57 ; 
 Arabian influence, ib. ; beer 
 brewing, ib. ; female brewers, 
 58 ; custom of hand-clapping, 
 60 ; festivities and funerals, 
 77 ; graves at Zimbabwe, 79 ; 
 sacrificial feasts, ib. ; playing 
 the piano, 80 ; songs and 
 music, 82 ; outdoor games, 
 85 ; interior of hut, 86 ; their 
 ingenuity, 248 ; a ijative born 
 without hands, 253 ; dread of 
 Shangan tribe, 203 ; fear of 
 hor&es, 271 ; architectural fea- 
 tures of country, 275 ; native 
 drawings, 276 ; rice-fields, 277 
 
 Makoni chief, visit to, 284 ; his 
 village and its inhabitants, 354 
 
 Makonyora village, 347 
 
 Makori post station, 251 
 
 Malozo's kraal, presentation of 
 beer in, 314 ; hair-dressing in, 
 ib. 
 
 Malta, temple ruins in, 110 
 
 Mandigo, kraal of, 377 ; tsetse 
 pest, ib. ; abandoned waggons 
 near, ib. 
 
 Mangwendi's country, ruined vil- 
 lages, 83 ; journey through, 
 314 ; visit to ruins, 330 ; de- 
 scription of chiefs kraal, 339, 
 342 ; Bondoro worship in, 340 ; 
 sacrifice in, ib. ; ploughing 
 season, 341 ; wives and chil- 
 dren of chief, 342 ; author's 
 departure from, 343 
 
 Manicaland, mountains of, 261, 
 354 ; valleys of, 355 
 
 Mapanda's country, waste of pro- 
 visions in, 233 ; desperate 
 condition of English immi- 
 grants, 379 ; corrugated iron 
 palaces, 381 ; camp attacked 
 by lions at night, ib. ; duck- 
 ing a Jew in the Pungwe, 382 ; 
 British colony in, ib. ; island 
 game on the Pungwe river, 
 ib.; island village of chief, 383 
 
 Mapandera, village of, 294 
 
 Maphartes a Sabaean depen- 
 dency, 224 
 
 Marib, the ancient Saba and 
 capital of the Sabsan kingdom 
 in Arabia, 105 ; ruins of elliptic 
 temple, 177 
 
 Marico district, Transvaal, ruins 
 of stone huts in, 139 
 
 Marinus of Tyre on Semitic 
 fetichism, 194 ; his vagueness 
 of information, 224 
 
 Mashah, a Makalanga native 
 engaged by author, 247 ; his 
 life and adventures, ib. 
 
 Mashanani, native servant at- 
 tached to author's expedition,
 
 420 
 
 INDEX 
 
 MAS 
 
 278 ; accompanies author to 
 chief 'Mtoko's country, 302 
 Slashonaland, departure of ex- 
 pedition for, 5 ; roads to, G ; 
 cattle disease en route, 8 ; 
 government, 30 ; interpreters, 
 31 ; pioneers, 32 ; intercourse 
 with natives, ib. ; trihal feuds, 
 33 ; Portuguese in, ib. ; de- 
 scription of country, 34 ; gra- 
 nite hills, ib. ; native head- 
 rests, 36 ; skin-polishing, 38 ;' 
 dollasses, or wooden charms, 
 39 ; witchcraft, ib. ; domestic 
 and other implements, 39, 40; 
 Zulu raids, 43 ; native agricul- 
 ture, ib. ; iron-smelting, 45 ; 
 female decoration, 47 ; quaint- 
 ness of scenery,50 ; quadrupeds 
 diseases, 51 ; ' salted horses,' 
 ib. ; ' drunk sickness ' among 
 oxen, ib. ; discovery of gold, 
 52 ; bridge-building, 53 ; tree- 
 barking, ib. ; caterpillars as 
 food, ib. ; sleeping in the forest, 
 54 ; forest scenery, ib. ; native 
 game pits, 55 ; beer-brewing, 
 57 ; Kaffir language, 58 ; ' trek- 
 king ' for three months, 59 ; 
 camp life and work at Zim- 
 babwe, 60 ; native gunpowder 
 manufacture, 72; cotton-spin- 
 ning, ib. ; native war-dance, 
 75 ; festivities and funerals, 
 77 ; native pianos, 80 ; travel- 
 ling in the wilds, 84 ; extra- 
 ordinary block of granite near 
 Zimbabwe, 85 ; Arabian in- 
 fluence in, 86 ; Umgabe's 
 kraal, 87 ; direful experience 
 of a swamp, 90 ; archseology 
 of ruined cities, 95 ; ancient 
 gold-mines, 99 ; situation of 
 the Great Zimbabwe ruins, 
 103 ; architecture, 148 ; descrip- 
 tion of temples, ib. ; religious 
 symbolism of birds, 186 ; 
 commerce of the ancients, 
 
 MAS 
 
 204 ; gold-mining, 215 ; ancient 
 gold-workings, 218 ; Arabian 
 gold-diggers, 220; geography 
 and ethnology of ruins, 223 ; 
 ancient output of gold, 228 ; 
 confusion in topography, 234 ; 
 Portuguese accounts of ruins, 
 2'38; first pioneers of Chartered 
 Company, 240; Toroa ruins, 
 ib. ; early Arab trading, 241 ; 
 Boer expeditions, 244 ; unoc- 
 cupied fertile land, 269 ; scanty 
 population, ib. ; highest point 
 in the country, 272; future 
 capital of gold-fields, 279 ; 
 planting of British flag, ib. ; 
 the ' Mashonaland Times and 
 Zambesia Herald,' 280 ; go- 
 vernment stores, ib. ; hospital 
 huts, ib. ; native engineering 
 skill in Mazoe valley, 288; Mr. 
 E. A. Maund's lecture on 
 ancient gold-mining in the 
 'Mswezwe district, 290 ; eland 
 meat, 291 ; destruction of 
 early Portuguese mission, 296 ; 
 winter in, 2*J8 ; native tattooing, 
 305; native fishing, 311; forest 
 monotony, 315 ; domestic ani- 
 mals, 318 ; politics and reli- 
 gion, 326 ; privations of ex- 
 pedition, 343 ; highest inha- 
 bited spot, 354 ; magnificence 
 of country, 362 ; tsetse fly, 
 363 ; Scotch enterprise, 365 ; 
 Heany and Johnson's pioneer 
 work, 371 ; Portuguese con- 
 victs, 373 ; native bearers, 
 ib. ; Pungwe route, 878 ; 
 fauna, 380 ; proposed railway 
 from Beira port to the in- 
 terior, 386 ; geography and 
 meteorology, 389 ; list of 
 stations astronomically ob- 
 served, with altitudes, 398; 
 progress from November 1891 
 to May 1893, 405. See also 
 Zimbabwe.
 
 INDEX 
 
 421 
 
 , MAS 
 
 Masoudi, El. Arabian historian, 
 116 ; on the Sab<ean temples, 
 148 ; on ancient stone-worship 
 in Arabia, 194 ; on Zindj 
 tribes of East Africa. 232 
 
 Masoupa in the Ba-Ngwatetse 
 country, 11 ; native dancing 
 and music, -16. ; heathenism, 
 12 
 
 Masouvo river, andMazoe valley, 
 295 
 
 Massapa mines and the Queen 
 of Sheba's gold, 295 ; ancient 
 Portuguese market in Mazoe 
 valley, ib. 
 
 Massi Kessi, early Portuguese 
 influence at, 298 ; journey to, 
 366 ; its Portuguese remini- 
 scences, 367 ; golden bullets, 
 368 ; Chartered Company at, 
 ib. ; engagement between Por- 
 tuguese and English, 369 ; 
 treaty concerning, ib. ; Por- 
 tuguese hospitality, 370 
 
 Masunsgwe, Mount, visit to, 337 
 
 Matabeleland, King of, 6; native 
 raids on Shoshong, 22 ; raid 
 upon Cherumbila's tribe, 90 ; 
 raids on Chekatu, 254 ; raids 
 in Mazoe valley, 288 
 
 Matirnbi, village of, 277; de- 
 scription of chief, ib. 
 
 Matindela, ruins at, 100, 136, 
 262 ; baobab trees, 135 ; tem- 
 ple and walls, 137, 156 ; 
 meaning of the word, guinea- 
 fowl, 263; curious fruit, ib.; 
 gigantic trees, 264 ; honey- 
 birds, 265 ; destruction around, 
 ib. ; profusion of game, ib. ; 
 hunting parties in locality, ib. ; 
 game laws of the Makalangas, 
 266 
 
 Mat zaire, chief of Chekatu vil- 
 lage, 254 
 
 Mauch, Karl, German traveller 
 in Mashonaland, 117, 244 
 
 MET 
 
 Maund, Mr. E. A., on the ruins 
 at Tati and on the Impakwe, 
 99 ; on ancient gold-mining in 
 Mashonaland, 290 
 
 Maunga tribe, 354 
 
 Mazoe valley, ruins in, 99, 135 ; 
 ruins effort in gold-fields, 100; 
 author's trip to, 284 ; native 
 kraals, 286; Mr. Selous' hunt- 
 ing expedition, ib. ; huts and 
 their inhabitants, 287 ; hand- 
 made pottery of natives, ib. ; 
 native beer, ib. ; huts of Mr. 
 Fleming, gold prospector, 288 ; 
 ancient gold-mines, ib. ; moun- 
 tain caves, ib. ; Matabele 
 raids, ib. ; native engineering 
 skill, 288 ; enormous output 
 of gold in ancient times, 289 ; 
 modern invasion, ib. ; Roth- 
 schild's, Cherry's, and Lock- 
 ner's settlements, 291; lemon- 
 trees in, ib. ; Mr. Nesbit's 
 hospitality, ib. ; visit to Yellow 
 Jacket mine, ib. ; kindness of 
 prospectors, ib. ; meat of the 
 eland, ib. ; lion-shooting, 292 ; 
 curious birds, ib. ; description 
 of ruin, ib.; valuable agricul- 
 tural country, 294; Chipadzi's 
 village, ib. ; Mapandera's 
 kraal, ib. ; Portuguese in, 295 ; 
 ancient Portuguese markets 
 in, ib. ; Major Forbes's pun- 
 ishment of Kaffirs, 299 ; 
 modern agricultural farms 
 300 
 
 Mecca, Kaaba stone at, 195 
 
 Mediterranean, prehistoric ex- 
 cavations on the. 209 
 
 Meshed, Mohammedan burial 
 at, 121 
 
 Mesopotamia, temple at Hiera- 
 polis, 117 ; Sabsean temples, 
 148 
 
 Metemo fort, ruins of, 100, 135, 
 261
 
 422 
 
 INDEX 
 
 MET 
 
 NAK 
 
 Metzwandira, author's Maka- 
 langa body-servant, 248 
 
 Midianites, sacred tower of the, 
 116 
 
 Mineni river, accident on, 371 
 
 Mines, Royal School of, cast of 
 ingot of tin found in Fal- 
 ruouth Harbour, '216 
 
 M'lala, village of, 44 ; stomach 
 decoration among women, 40 ; 
 costumes of natives, 49 ; witch 
 doctor, ib. 
 
 Mocaranga tribe, land of, 32 ; 
 Dos Santos' account, 237 ; 
 Bocarro's description of race, 
 339 
 
 Moffat, Dr., at Shoshong, 23 
 
 Moffat, Mr., political agent in 
 Matabeleland, 99 
 
 Molopolole river, 15 
 
 Mondoro, or lion priest, in 
 'Mtokoland, 326 ; interviews 
 with, 327 
 
 Monomatapa, empire of, 32 ; 
 civilisation, 215 ; Portuguese 
 travellers on wealth of 
 emperor, 234 ; confusion of 
 name, ib. ; Father dos 
 Santos' description of the 
 people, 236 ; Leo Africanus' 
 account of ruins, 240 ; Da 
 Costa's letter to the King of 
 Portugal concerning ruins, 
 242 ; btronghold for chiefs 
 wives at Chiburga, 207 ; 
 Portuguese account of Mono- 
 matapa, 331, 332 ; their treaty 
 with chief, 352 
 
 Monteiro, Portuguese traveller, 
 on the Zambesi tribes, 237 ; 
 on lion worship, 331 
 
 Montfaucon, M., on tower 
 worship, 116 
 
 Montsoia, native chief, 7 
 
 M'shagashi river, 53 
 
 'Mswezwe, shafts in river dis- 
 trict, 289 ; Mr. E. A. Maund 
 
 on ancient gold-mining at, 
 290 
 
 'Mtasa, lord of the Nica tribe, 
 356 ; mountains in country of, 
 ib. ; British in possession of 
 kraal, 357 ; conflicting interests 
 of England and Po>tugal in 
 land of, 357, 359 ; Bushman 
 drawings in village, 359 
 
 'Mtigeza, chiefs around Mount 
 "Wedza, 273 ; their fortress, 
 ib. ; interior of huts, 276 
 
 'Mtoko country, presents for 
 chief, 284 ; author's embassy 
 to, 301 ; births and marriages, 
 316; marauding transactions, 
 317 ; native customs, ib. ; 
 language, 318 ; cattle, ib. ; 
 chiefs kraal, 319; description 
 of women, ib. ; Zambesi influ- 
 ence, 321 ; chiefs indignation 
 with author, ib. ; a state visit, 
 323 ; nervousness of chief, 
 824 ; description of presents, 
 ib. ; chief's opinion of the 
 white lady, 325 ; hospitality 
 of the natives, ib. ; politics and 
 religion, 326 ; the Mondoro, 
 or lion priest, 327 ; bucolic 
 prosperity, ib. ; imminence 
 of civil war, 328 ; early 
 struggles with the Portuguese, 
 331 ; Bushman drawings, 333 
 
 Muali,thegodof theMakalangay, 
 57, 341 
 
 Muchienda, village of, 258 ; 
 native game-hunting, ib. 
 
 Musungaikwa country, tattooed 
 women in, 305 
 
 Mwairari river, crossing the, 268 
 
 Mycene, Dr. Schlieuiarm's dis- 
 coveries at, 185 
 
 NAKA pass, 43 
 
 Nakab al Hajar, Arabia, ruins of 
 castle at, 105 ; temple, 177
 
 INDEX 
 
 423 
 
 FAN 
 
 Nankin china in Mazoe Valley, 
 
 2M 
 
 Natal, Bakalanga tribes in, 33 
 Naucratis, lebes from temple at, 
 
 in British Museum, 200 
 Necho, Pharaoh, B.C. 000, 225 
 Nejed, Lower, monoliths in, 119 
 Nesbit, Mr., mining commis- 
 sioner, in Mazoe valley, 291 
 Neves Fereira, English immi- 
 grants boycotted by Portu- 
 guese governor of, 379 
 Nhaya, Pedro de, Portuguese 
 commander, 231 ; his capture 
 of Soi'ala, ib. 
 
 Nica tribe, lord of the, 356 
 'Nyagowe river, gold in quill 
 
 found in, 309 
 
 Ny anger, camping at, 343 ; curi- 
 ous grotto, 344 ; Bushman 
 drawings on rocks, ib. ; graves 
 in cave, ib. ; cemeteries in 
 the open, 345 ; ruins of temple, 
 346 
 
 Nyangombwe mountains, 375 
 'Nyatzetse river, crossing the, 
 261 ; agriculture near, ib. 
 
 ODZANI river, dangerous cross- 
 ing of, 360 
 
 Odzi river, the boundary between 
 Mashonaland and Manica- 
 land. 356 
 
 Ophir, land of, theory concern- 
 ing, 228 
 
 PALAPWE, migration of natives 
 to, 21 ; Ba-mangwato tribe at, 
 23 ; description of country, 
 24 ; mission-house, ib. ; cas- 
 cade, ib. ; babooks, ib. ; native 
 services, ib. ; church building, 
 ib. ; discipline of chief, 26 ; 
 native women, 27 ; departure 
 of expedition, 29 
 
 PTO 
 
 Palgrave, Arabian traveller, 118 
 
 Paphos, Cyprus, excavations at, 
 204 
 
 Payva, Alfonso de, Portuguese 
 explorer, 230 
 
 Pegado, Captain Vicento, Portu- 
 guese governor of Sofala, 239 
 
 Pelasgi, mythical race of, 222 
 
 Penuel, the sacred tower of the 
 Midianites, 116 
 
 'Periplus of the Red Sea,' 
 anonymous author of, 224 ; 
 his geographical speculations, 
 225 
 
 Perrot and Chipiez. MM., on art 
 history in Sardinia, 117, 118 ; 
 their work on Phoenicia,' 
 186 ; on the Phoenician column 
 in the Louvre, 189 
 
 Persia, Mohammedan burial in, 
 121 
 
 Philips, Mr. G., on the Zimbabwe 
 and Tati ruins, 96 
 
 Phoenicia, temple construction 
 in, 116 ; coin found in Cyprus, 
 186; symbols, 188; Biblical 
 allusions to wealth of Arabia 
 and, 227 ; hrimacy with 
 Sabsea, ib. ; ancient enterprise, 
 229 
 
 Pigafetta's description of Masho- 
 naland ruins, 240 
 
 Pilan, chief of Masoupa, 6, 12 
 
 Pliny, vagueness of information 
 as to source of ancient mer- 
 chandise, 224 
 
 Portuguese in Mashonaland, 33 ; 
 expeditions in Africa, 230; 
 failure of expeditions through 
 Arab jealousy, 235 
 
 Providential Pass, 50,75; Cherttm- 
 bila's tribe at, 90 ; Matabele 
 raid upon, ib. 
 
 Ptolemy, vagueness of informa- 
 tion as to source of ancient 
 merchandise, 2'24 ; mention of 
 Agizymba nation, 239 ; on
 
 424 
 
 INDEX 
 
 PUN 
 
 Eoraan penetration through 
 Africa, ib. 
 
 Pungwe river, early Portuguese 
 influence on the, 298 ; at 
 Sarmento, 378 ; its imposing 
 appearance, 379 ; ini'ested 
 with crocodile and hippopo- 
 tami, 379, 385 ; fauna of adja- 
 cent country, 380 ; dangerous 
 sandbanks, 384 
 
 Punt, kingdom of, its doubtful 
 whereabout?, 221 ; wealth of 
 the people, ib. ; ingots of gold 
 sent to Queen Hatasou, ib. ; 
 conquered by Egyptians, 22(3 ; 
 theory concerning the land of 
 Punt,' 228 
 
 QUILOA, Sir John Kirk at, 205 ; 
 Arab settlement at, 241 
 
 RAMATLABAMA river, 7 
 
 Bed Sea, Egyptian commerce on 
 
 the, 226 ; Arabian and Phoeni- 
 
 cian enterprise in region of, 
 
 228 
 Benaudot, M., on Arab experi- 
 
 ence of savage tribes in East 
 
 Africa, 233 
 
 Bevwe river and valley, 367 
 Bhapta, Arab settlement at, 224 ; 
 
 Dean Vincent on the situation 
 
 of, ib. 
 Borne, its importation of gold 
 
 from Arabia, 227 
 Bothschild's settlementin Mazoe 
 
 valley, 291 
 Busapi river, Chipunza's kraal 
 
 on the, 348 
 
 , its intimacy with Phoe- 
 nicia, 227 ; wealth of, ib. ; 
 Arabian and ^Ethiopian cities 
 named alike, 230 
 Sabi river, 32; ruins efforts, 100; 
 
 SAN 
 
 situation of ruins, 103; author's 
 expedition to region of, 247 ; 
 valley scenery, 259 ; view of 
 mountains, 261 ; ruined vil- 
 lages and deserted fields near. 
 203 ; Zulu raids on Makalanga 
 villages, ib. ; its magnificence, 
 268 ; bathing and washing in. 
 269 
 
 Salisbury fort, daub huLs of, 279 ; 
 fever and famine, 280 ; growth 
 of townships around, ib. ; ne vs- 
 paper established, ib. ; civil 
 and military administration 
 ib. ; hospital huts, zb. ; Bene- 
 dictine sisters and J^ * 
 father, ib. ; anniversary din- 
 ner of pioneers at hotel, 281 ; 
 the question of supplies, ib. ; 
 Chartered Company'sdifficulty 
 in catering, 282 ; influx of ad- 
 venturers, ib. ; danger of 
 famine, 283 ; Mr. Selous in 
 search of food waggons, ib. ; 
 arrival of provisions, ib. ; 
 climate of, ib. ; author's depar- 
 ture for Mazoe valley, 284 ; 
 his return therefrom, 294 ; 
 farewell to friends, 303 ; trad- 
 ing with Kunziland natives, 
 309 
 
 Salt, Mr., in Abyssinia, 229 
 
 Salvador, San, iron bells dis- 
 covered at, 212 
 
 Sangwe river, Mapandera's kraal 
 on, 294 
 
 Santos, Father dos, Portuguese 
 traveller, 32 ; on Kaffir instru- 
 ments, 212 ; his description of 
 the Monomatapa tribe, 236 ; 
 allusion to lemon-trees in 
 Mazoe valley, 291 ; on sacri- 
 fice among the Mocarangas, 
 341 ; on feasting in Mang- 
 wendi's country, 341 ; burial 
 of chiefs, 346 ; on early Portu- 
 guese travellers, 352
 
 INDEX 
 
 425 
 
 SAB 
 
 Sardinia, round towers in, 116 ; 
 MM. Perrot and Chipiez on 
 history of art in, 117 
 
 Sargon, annals of, 227 
 
 Sarmento, deserted coaches at, 
 378 ; climate of, 380 
 
 Schliemann, Dr., discoveries of, 
 at Mycene, 185 
 
 Science, British Association for 
 the Advancement of, expedi- 
 tion assisted by, 4 
 
 Sechele, native chief, 6, 14 ; 
 capital and residence, 15 
 
 Sechuana language, 8 ; super- 
 stition, 10 ; dancing, 11 ; 
 marriage laws, 12 ; religion, 
 25 
 
 Sekatu, village of, 255 ; growth 
 of cucumbers at, ib. 
 
 Selous, Mr., at Providential 
 Pass, 50 ; in search of provi- 
 sions for Fort Salisbury, 283 ; 
 hunting expedition in Mazoe 
 valley, 286 ; in chief 'Mtoko's 
 kraal, 321 ; at Kalimazondo's 
 kraal, 335 
 
 Selynia, pond of, 20 
 
 Semitic nations, monopolising 
 policy of, 223 
 
 Shamsi, Queen of Arabia, 227 
 
 Shangan tribes, 32 ; raids on 
 Sabi river region, 263 
 
 Shashi river, 30 ; ruins in vici- 
 nity, 95 
 
 Sheba, Queen of, and the Mas- 
 sapa gold-mines, 295 
 
 Shoshong, journey to, 17 ; arrival 
 at, 20 ; hills of, ib. ; mission- 
 aries at, 21 ; traders at, ib. ; 
 exodus of natives from, ib. ; 
 water famine, ib. ; tribal raids 
 on, 22 ; ruins of, ib. ; Dr. 
 Livingstone and Dr. Moffat 
 at, 23 
 
 Sibibabira, village of, 251 
 
 Sikkome, father of Khama, 26 
 
 Silveira, Father, Portuguese 
 
 THE 
 
 Jesuit, martyrdom of, 235, 
 296 
 
 Sindito, chief of Sekatu viUage, 
 255 ; hospitality of, ib. 
 
 Siorma in occupation of Zendj 
 tribes, 233 
 
 Sirwah, elliptic temple at, 177 
 
 Smet, village of, 272 
 
 Sofala, Arabian writers on gold 
 of, 230 ; Portuguese in posses- 
 sion, 231 ; Duarte Barbosa on 
 the gold trade, ib. ; ancient 
 historian's account of, ib. ; 
 tribes of cannibals near, 232 ; 
 golden mountains near, 234; 
 manufacture of brass orna- 
 ments, ib. ; Portuguese gover- 
 nor at, 239 
 
 Solomon, King, expedition of, 
 226 
 
 Soudan, carving from the, 186 
 
 Stonehenge, mythical builders 
 of, 222 
 
 Swan, Mr. Robert McNair 
 Wilson, cartographer to expe- 
 dition, 5 ; on the orientation 
 and measurements cf Zim- 
 babwe ruins, 141 ; on the geo- 
 graphy and meteorology of 
 Mashonaland, 389 ; his astro- 
 nomical observat'ons, with 
 altitudes of station , 398 
 
 Syria, Phoenician ten pie of the 
 sun at Emesa, 204 
 
 TAIF, Arabia, stone-worship at, 
 195 
 
 Tatagora valley, scenery in, 285 ; 
 the machabel tree, ib.; junc- 
 tion of river with Mazoe, 290 
 
 Tati, ruins of, 95 ; description 
 thereof by Mr. G. Philips and 
 Mr. E. A. Maund, 96 
 
 Taungs, native settlement at, 6 
 
 Thebes, Bueotia, relics from, 
 205
 
 426 
 
 INDEX 
 
 TIG 
 
 Tiglath Pileser II., Assyrian 
 
 inscriptions concerning, 227 
 Todd, Dr., of the 'Magicienne,' 
 
 succours English immigrants 
 
 in Mapanda's country, 379 
 Tokwe river, 50 
 Toroa, Leo Africanus on ruins of, 
 
 240 
 Torrend, Father, on Mashona- 
 
 land, 33 
 Transvaal, ruins of stone huts in 
 
 the Marico district, 139 
 Truro Museum, ingot of tin from 
 
 Falmouth Harbour, 216 
 Tuli fort, 30 
 Tyre, Ezekiel's denunciation of, 
 
 227 ; Zechariah on wealth of, 
 
 228 
 
 UMFANIPATZA, village of, 251 
 
 Umgabe, chief of Zimbabwe, 65 ; 
 his personal appearance. 00 ; 
 his brother Ikomo, 73 ; visit to 
 Umgabe's kraal, 86; his intoxi- 
 cated condition, ib. ; uncom- 
 fortable quarters, ib. ; situa- 
 tion of kraal, 87 ; his well- 
 filled granaries, 88 ; domestic 
 commodities, ib. 
 
 Umliwan district, fertility of, 
 371 
 
 Umtali, trip to, 284 ; ancient 
 gold-mining at, 290 ; B S A. 
 camp at, 360 ; arrival of 
 author, 361 ; importance of, 
 363; Portuguese remains near 
 fort, 364 ; journey to Beira, 
 365 
 
 CJmzilikatze, Zulu warrior, 237 
 
 VAROMA, Mount, at Zimbabwe, 
 160 
 
 Victoria fort, fever at, 50 ; dear- 
 ness of provisions, ib. ; horse 
 sickness, 51 ; sour grass, 52 ; 
 
 ZEY 
 
 discovery of gold near, ib. ; 
 bridge-building in vicinity, 
 53 ; Sir John Willoughby at, 
 74 ; departure for Sabi river, 
 251 ; prospecting for gold, 28'J 
 
 Vincent, Dean, on the situation 
 of Rhapta, 224 
 
 Vryberg, arrival and departure 
 of expedition, 5 ; native settle- 
 ment at, 6 
 
 WADI ALLAGA gold-mines, 218 
 
 \Yedza, Mount, highest point in 
 Mashonaland, 272 ; iron- 
 smelting at, ib. ; chiefs in 
 vicinity, 273 
 
 "Willoughby, Sir Jchn, at Fort 
 Victoria, 74 ; visits the expe- 
 dition at Zimbabwe, ib. ; in- 
 terviews the chief's brother, 
 Ikomo, and threatens him. 
 ib. 
 
 ' V.'issenschaft, Akademie der,' 
 by Herr Kremer, 185, 195 
 
 YANDORO, a village in Kunzi's 
 
 country, 312 
 Yellow Jacket mine, visit to, 
 
 298 
 Yemen, temples and fortresses 
 
 in, 176 
 Yenya mountains, 356 
 
 ZAMBESI river, Zimbabwes in 
 region of, 237 ; early Portu- 
 guese influence on the, 298 
 
 Zamopera, village of, 270 ; its 
 inhabitants, ib. 
 
 Zechariah on the wealth of 
 Tyre, 228 
 
 Zendj tribes, 233 ; iron trade 
 with Indians, 234 
 
 7.eyd, Abou, on the wild Zindj 
 tribes of East Africa, 233
 
 INDEX 
 
 427 
 
 zm 
 
 Zimbabwe, tribes around, 32 ; 
 sickness among oxen, 51 ; ad- 
 jacent forests, 54 ; description 
 of the country, 55 ; fever in 
 camp,z'6. ; character of natives, 
 55 ; arrival of expedition, 59 ; 
 camp life, 60 ; flora of, ib ; 
 alarming fire, 63 ; visitors in 
 camp, G4; ruins, 64, 99, 103; 
 daily work, 64; evening con- 
 certs, 65 ; visit of Umgabe, 
 district chief, ib. ; native wages, 
 
 69 ; difficulties with workmen, 
 ib. ; provisions and marketing, 
 
 70 ; native ingenuity, 71 ; 
 ornaments and snuff-boxes, 
 72 ; the chiefs brother in 
 camp, 73 ; trouble with 
 natives, ib. ; kraal of Ikomo, 
 75 ; Amazonian dance, ib. ; 
 graves among the ruins, 79 ; 
 musical instruments, 80, 81 ; 
 excursions from, 82 ; beer- 
 making, 83 ; locust- eating, 84 ; 
 migratory spirit of the natives, 
 ib. ; scenery around, 85 ; Mr. 
 G. Philips's description of the 
 ruins, 96 ; prominent features 
 of the Great Zimbabwe ruins, 
 104 ; excavation work, ib. ; 
 religious purport of ruined 
 towers, 115 ; sacrifice, 117 ; 
 Kaffir cemetery, 121 ; descrip- 
 tion of hill fortress, 122 ; 
 labyrinthine nature of build- 
 ings, 128 ; gold-smelting fur- 
 naces and caves, 131 ; ruins 
 of Little Zimbabwe, 135 ; 
 orientation and measurements 
 of ruins by Mr. E. M. W. 
 Swan, 141 ; nature worship, 
 ib. ; astronomical observations, 
 147, 170, 173 ; architectural 
 features, 148 ; coin of Byblos, 
 
 ZYG 
 
 150 ; soapstone monoliths, 167; 
 ancient builders, 176; dis- 
 coveries during excavation, 
 179 ; traces of recent Kaffir 
 habitation, ib. ; soapstone 
 carvings, ib. ; religious 
 symbolism of birds, 186 , 
 circumcision practised by the 
 ancients, 188 ; ancient venera- 
 tion for stones, 191 ; geological 
 fragments, 193, 194 ; old-world 
 worship, 194; artistic skill of 
 the ancients, 196 ; fragments 
 of soapstone bowls, 197 ; 
 Phoenician work, ib. ; proto- 
 Arabian lettering on bowls, 
 200 ; world-wide commerce 
 of the ancients, 204; Celadon 
 pottery from China, ib. ; 
 Persian and Arabian wares, 
 ib. ; Monomatapa rule, 205 ; 
 ceramic art, 207 ; bronze and 
 iron weapons and implements, 
 209 ; ruins scoured by Kaffirs 
 for centuries, 210 ; excavation 
 of iron weapons and imple- 
 ments, 211 ; discovery of iron 
 bells, ib. ; gold - smelting 
 furnace, 215 ; Arabian origin 
 of gold-diggers, 220 ; discovery 
 of gold-smelting crucibles, 
 221 ; derivator! of name, 234 ; 
 modern exploration of ruins 
 by a German traveller, 244 ; 
 thirst for gold among the 
 ancients, 279 
 
 Zindj tribes in Africa, 231 ; 
 Abou Zeyd's description of, 
 233 
 
 Zulu raids in Mashon aland, 43 ; 
 successes under Umzilikatze, 
 237 
 
 Zygabenus on Ishmaelite stone- 
 worship, 195 
 
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