»•" 1%. 
 
 A Publication of The College of Agriculture 
 
 \ \ I U N 
 
 IVERSITY 
 
 O F 
 
 CALIFORNIA 
 
 CALIFORNIA AGRICULTURAL 
 Experiment Station 
 Extension Service 
 
 MANUAL 4 
 
Digitized by the Internet Archive 
 
 in 2012 with funding from 
 
 University of California, Davis Libraries 
 
 http://archive.org/details/chrysanthemumcul04butt 
 
CULTURE IN CALIFORNIA 
 
 H. M. BUTTERFIELD 
 
 UNlVfcKSlTY OF CAUFOKTO* 
 
 LIBRARY 
 
 DAVIS "' 
 
 UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA COLLEGE OF AGRICULTURE 
 
 Agricultural Experiment Station and Extension Service 
 
 LIBRARY 
 
 University of California 
 
 DAVIS 
 
THIS MANUAL is one of a series published by the University of California College of Agri- 
 culture and sold for a charge which is based upon returning only a portion of the production 
 cost. By this means it is possible to make available publications which, due to relatively high 
 cost of production, or limited audience, would otherwise be beyond the scope of the College 
 publishing program. 
 
 
CONTENTS 
 
 PROPAGATE PLANTS WITH HEALTHY TIP CUTTINGS 1 
 
 The experienced chrysanthemum gardener 1 
 
 The beginning chrysanthemum gardener 2 
 
 PLANT ACCORDING TO A PLAN 3 
 
 The outdoor garden 3 
 
 The cloth house 4 
 
 IRRIGATE TO ADJUST HUMIDITY, TEMPERATURE, AND SOIL 
 
 MOISTURE 6 
 
 Regular and deep irrigation . . 6 
 
 Importance of salt-free water 7 
 
 FERTILIZE IN GROWING SEASON FOR HIGH-QUALITY FLOWERS . 7 
 
 Soil deficiencies 7 
 
 Nitrogenous fertilizers 7 
 
 REGULATE GROWTH FOR DESIRED EFFECTS 8 
 
 Stopping or pinching-back 8 
 
 Disbudding 9 
 
 Restricting side shoots 10 
 
 Training to cascade forms 10 
 
 Shading for early bloom 12 
 
 PRODUCE NEW VARIETIES BY SEEDING AND SELECTING BEST OF 
 
 SEEDLINGS 14 
 
 New varieties by line-breeding 14 
 
 New varieties by mutation 14 
 
 Experiments in chrysanthemum breeding 14 
 
 CONTROL PESTS AND DISEASES 15 
 
 Pests 15 
 
 Diseases 17 
 
 USE EITHER COMBINED-SPRAY OR SEPARATE-SPRAY PROGRAMS . 22 
 
 SELECT EXHIBITION BLOOMS ACCORDING TO FIVE MARKET 
 
 GRADES . 22 
 
 CLASSIFICATION OF CHRYSANTHEMUMS 23 
 
 SUGGESTED READING LIST 29 
 
 TABLES OF VARIETIES 30 
 
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 .;*-£-*>; 
 
 The chrysanthemum cutting shown above was taken from a healthy plant. 
 It is about 6 inches long. 
 
 / K 
 
 You can start with cuttings — here is 
 the way to select and trim them 
 
 The same cutting, made ready for planting, is shown below. 
 Note that the lower leaves have been removed. 
 
 
 •>■ 
 
H. M. BUTTERFIELD 
 
 CULTURE IN CALIFORNIA 
 
 WHEN A home gardener becomes an experienced chrysanthemum grower 
 he usually roots his own cuttings if healthy plants are at hand. A beginning 
 chrysanthemum grower finds it easier to plant cuttings already rooted. 
 
 PROPAGATE PLANTS WITH HEALTHY 
 TIP CUTTINGS 
 
 The Experienced Chrysanthemum 
 Gardener 
 
 What to use for cuttings. Tip cut- 
 tings about 4 inches long are taken some 
 4 to 6 inches above the base of clumps 
 selected for vigor, variety, and flowering 
 date. A gardener must be experienced in 
 chrysanthemum growing to know what 
 to choose and what to avoid in apprais- 
 ing the mother clumps. 
 
 The chosen clumps are kept in well- 
 drained soil, safe from freezing, in a 
 location where air temperature favors 
 moderate spring growth. Clumps grow- 
 ing in ground to be prepared for another 
 flower crop are dug up, with the soil in- 
 tact, and are stored in a frame or in a 
 part of the garden where early cuttings 
 can be produced. 
 
 If verticillium wilt (see p. 19) is preva- 
 lent in the garden, take healthy cuttings 
 from rapidly growing stems above the 
 18-inch level. At this height from the 
 plant base, cuttings are not so likely to 
 carry the disease. Once verticillium wilt 
 is eliminated from the garden, cuttings 
 can be taken at the usual height from the 
 base of the clump. 
 
 What not to use for cuttings. Tip 
 cuttings are never taken from the base 
 of a mother clump where verticillium wilt 
 might be present. And they are never 
 taken from woody shoots. These may fail 
 
 to root well, and are usually far less satis- 
 factory than cuttings from vigorous, suc- 
 culent shoots. 
 
 Some gardeners make root divisions. 
 The danger that root divisions may not 
 be as healthy as tip cuttings taken from 
 vigorous plants should be recognized. 
 
 How to plant cuttings. Each cutting 
 is inserted into sand or other rooting 
 medium to about half its length. The 
 leaves on the part of the cutting that ex- 
 tends above ground level are left on to 
 speed rooting. The rooting medium is 
 kept moist but not saturated. 
 
 Containers used for rooting. If 
 only a few cuttings are planned, root these 
 in individual, shallow pots or even in deep 
 nursery flats. If many cuttings are needed, 
 construct a cold frame. In a cold frame 
 they are usually planted about 3 or 4 
 inches apart in rows in beds or in 
 benches. Each row is labeled with variety 
 name. 
 
 Treatment of early and late cut- 
 tings. Early cuttings are best rooted in 
 a heated greenhouse; late cuttings, in 
 beds on ground that will be well drained 
 throughout the rooting period. Tempera- 
 ture is easier to regulate and drainage 
 to control in a greenhouse bench than 
 in a ground bed. 
 
 Rooting aided by hormone dusts. 
 Hormone dusts may be applied to the 
 base of cuttings. The base is dipped into 
 
 [i] 
 
A flower pot or other small container is used for 
 rooting only a few cuttings. 
 
 the dust, then tapped to remove surplus 
 powder before being planted. Trade 
 preparations of hormone dusts can be 
 purchased at most nurseries. 
 
 Length of rooting time. Under fa- 
 vorable conditions, rooting requires 
 about 20 days. The time varies somewhat 
 with variety and with growing conditions. 
 
 Transplanting rooted cuttings. 
 Some growers prefer to transplant rooted 
 
 When large numbers of cuttings are set out, it is 
 well to use a standard redwood flat. 
 
 cuttings to 2 1 /o-inch pots or to plant bands 
 before setting them out permanently. If 
 there is no time for transplanting, then 
 set them directly into permanent location. 
 
 The Beginning Chrysanthemum 
 Gardener 
 
 Buying from dependable grow- 
 ers. Until a gardener becomes experi- 
 enced in chrysanthemum growing he will 
 
 While not recommended by some growers, chrysanthemums may be propagated by division of 
 clumps. The first step in dividing is shown above. 
 
 [2] 
 
find it best to buy cuttings already rooted. 
 These should be bought from growers 
 known to have healthy stock. Cuttings 
 from unknown sources may develop a 
 virus disease and serve as hosts for spread 
 of the disease to nearby plants. Such cut- 
 tings are never satisfactory. 
 
 Nurserymen selling rooted cuttings 
 usually ship plants bare-root, with the 
 cuttings packed in moist sphagnum moss. 
 Occasionally they ship plants in paper 
 
 cups with soil about the roots. This prac- 
 tice, however, is not encouraged by hor- 
 ticultural inspectors who find cup-packed 
 plants more difficult to inspect than plants 
 with bare roots. 
 
 Placing the order early. When buy- 
 ing rooted cuttings, place the order well 
 ahead of planting. This will assure de- 
 livery of the varieties ordered. Most nurs- 
 erymen in filling orders substitute 
 varieties if their supply of cuttings is low. 
 
 PLANT ACCORDING TO A PLAN 
 
 The plan of the chrysanthemum garden 
 must meet certain requirements in soil, 
 ventilation, light, space, and irrigation. 
 These requirements are the same whether 
 chrysanthemums are grown outdoors or 
 in a cloth house. 
 
 The Outdoor Garden 
 
 Soil preparation. The soil needs to 
 be turned and left open to aerate at least 
 a week before planting. During this time, 
 clods can be broken up and the bed raked 
 and leveled. A deep irrigation is given a 
 few days before planting. 
 
 When heavy clay soils are very wet they 
 
 must not be worked. They should dry out 
 enough to crumble well. Then, with 
 proper management and very little tillage, 
 their crumblike structure will be satis- 
 factory. 
 
 Sandy soils are easy to till. They have 
 limited moisture-holding capacity, how- 
 ever, and usually are deficient in organic 
 matter. 
 
 Ventilation. Furnish maximum ven- 
 tilation to the chrysanthemum bed. Avoid 
 garden corners with limited circulation 
 of air. In adequate ventilation, the blos- 
 soms will not remain wet during periods 
 of damp weather. Satisfactory air drain- 
 
 Here, the division is completed. (The soil was removed from the plant to show root growth.) Position 
 of snips shows where plant should be cut back. 
 
 [3] 
 
age is also the primary preventive for 
 Septoria leaf spot and petal blight. 
 
 Light. Chrysanthemum plants need a 
 limited amount of light throughout the 
 growing season. They will not do well 
 in direct, intense sunlight for the entire 
 day. In early growth their moisture in- 
 take will be badly affected; and in the 
 blooming period their color may be dam- 
 aged. Light must therefore be controlled 
 in some way. 
 
 Root space. Chrysanthemums should 
 not have to compete with the roots of 
 other garden plants and shrubs. They 
 need a place to themselves and an ade- 
 quate distance from one another. 
 
 Plant space. This depends primarily 
 upon varietal habits. Close spacing is 
 given to plants that are small-sized; that 
 produce only two or three medium-sized 
 blossoms; or that have an abundance of 
 small, close-hugging blossoms. Close 
 spacing is also used for massive color 
 effects. 
 
 Wide spacing is given to plants grown 
 for spray effects or for numerous large 
 blossoms. Wide spacing also admits more 
 light and air to the plant and gives room 
 for irrigating, fertilizing, and dusting 
 and spraying. 
 
 Individual plants in the row are usually 
 set at least 8 inches apart for small-grow- 
 ing varieties and 10 inches for large- 
 growing varieties. Plants grown for mass 
 color effects are set 7 to 8 inches apart 
 and for wide spray effects, 8 to 10 inches. 
 
 Row space. Plants set in rows are 
 much easier to irrigate and cultivate than 
 plants set at random. Planting beds in 
 the garden are usually 3 feet wide, about 
 10 to 12 inches apart, with 5 or 6 rows 
 running lengthwise of each bed. 
 
 Plants set in double rows need a fur- 
 row down the middle and a furrow on 
 each side. Plants set out helter-skelter will 
 have to be watered by hose, sprinkler, or 
 watering can at the risk of damaging 
 stems, foliage, buds, and flowers. 
 
 Planning for irrigation. In the long 
 summer and fall drought the plants must 
 
 be watered regularly. This means care- 
 fully studying the planting area, leveling 
 to prevent erosion, and aranging the beds 
 for easy and efficient irrigation (see p. 6) . 
 
 Planting time. This depends upon 
 the flowering time of the variety and, in 
 some instances, upon the date the flowers 
 are needed. Most varieties are set out 
 during April and into the first part of 
 May. 
 
 Some gardeners begin to plant as early 
 as March. Too early planting, however, 
 causes plants to grow too tall, with con- 
 sequent hardening of stems before the 
 buds form. Large-flowered varieties are 
 inferior under early planting, some varie- 
 ties growing to a height of 6 feet or 
 more — too tall for chrysanthemums. 
 
 Plant height and support. Tall 
 plants are tied to stakes, or are supported 
 by wire or possibly by cord stretched be- 
 tween stakes driven in along the row. 
 Small-sized, no. 20 galvanized wire is 
 often used by commercial chrysanthe- 
 mum growers to stretch along the rows, 
 with crossarms of narrow wooden strips 
 fastened crosswise of the beds over the 
 rows. For medium-tall varieties stretch 
 the wires along the row at a height of 3 
 feet; for tall varieties, 4 feet. 
 
 Individual, tall plants can be fastened 
 to wires with any kind of tie that will keep 
 them from falling. Large-flowered plants, 
 which may become topheavy during the 
 blooming period, are usually fastened to 
 individual stakes. 
 
 The Cloth House 
 
 Occasionally a home gardener decides 
 to become a chrysanthemum fancier and 
 produce large-flowered varieties under 
 cloth. A cloth house is the most practical 
 covering for this type of chrysanthemum 
 growing. 
 
 Building the house. A cloth house 
 is at least 6 feet or more in height to allow 
 the gardener room in which to work with 
 the plants without stooping. The house 
 frame is usually built of 2- x 3-inch red- 
 wood, with the top and sides covered with 
 
 [4] 
 
Doorway 
 
 A — Framework with baseboard for cloth house 33'0" x 66'0' 
 
 Wire Support 
 
 60' 
 
 Double wire twisted to tighten 
 
 ;- - - 1 H>z-~ ^- _ -~ : r-~Af - 
 
 ~-—~ 
 
 - - -~l \Y^~-~ - -" - - "A" 
 
 - ~ ~s 
 
 --"-"1ll:--^- _ r-:-:-A 
 
 Anchor 
 
 -i-I-Uz-Vf-"-^ 
 
 
 B — Method of anchoring posts 
 
 Sometimes a home gardener becomes a chrysanthemum fancier. Then, he will find the cloth house 
 
 the most practical type of cover. 
 
 [5] 
 
cheesecloth that either is sewed together 
 or is fastened on in separate strips. The 
 cloth is held in place by strips of plaster 
 lath nailed to the frame. Reinforced in 
 this way the cloth house is resistant to 
 all but a very heavy wind. The door open- 
 ing can be a wooden frame, with either 
 a cloth-covered, wooden-frame door, or a 
 piece of cloth left loose to be fastened 
 back or to hang across the opening. 
 
 The cheesecloth should be of fine mesh 
 —20 x 24 or 24 x 28— which is very 
 satisfactory for shading plants during the 
 growing season. 
 
 Planting. This is done in rows, as in 
 the garden, for easier watering and cul- 
 tivating. The planting beds are 3 feet 
 wide, about 10 to 12 inches apart, with 
 5 or 6 rows running lengthwise of each 
 -bed. 
 
 IRRIGATE TO ADJUST HUMIDITY, TEMPERATURE, 
 AND SOIL MOISTURE 
 
 Regular and Deep Irrigation 
 
 Chrysanthemum growth should never 
 be checked by insufficient soil moisture 
 nor water-logged by soil maintained at 
 full water-holding capacity. Irrigation 
 should be frequent enough to produce 
 steady growth, with leaves kept in suc- 
 culent condition. 
 
 Type of irrigation. Furrow irriga- 
 tion, wherever practicable, is recom- 
 mended. The furrows are 3 to 4 inches 
 deep and, because they tend to fill with 
 suckers, are approximately 6 inches wide 
 
 Basin irrigation for an individual 
 chrysanthemum plant. 
 
 to carry sufficient water for a thorough 
 irrigation. If the plants are in beds slop- 
 ing lengthwise, it may be necessary to 
 dig cross-furrows that can be filled with 
 water at irrigation. If the plants are in 
 contour position on slopes, they should 
 be furrow-watered by the double-row 
 system. 
 
 Basin irrigation may be used around 
 individual plants. The basins are formed 
 far enough away from the plant not to 
 disturb the roots and deep enough to per- 
 mit thorough watering. 
 
 Overhead sprinkling is rarely advis- 
 able. The weight of water on foliage often 
 bends unsupported stems; and water 
 striking flowers soon injures them, as is 
 easily seen when petals remain wet for 
 any length of time during rainy periods. 
 If overhead sprinkling must be used, sup- 
 port the plants and try to avoid wetting 
 open flowers. Flooding is successful only 
 on level-surface beds. 
 
 How often to irrigate. Irrigation 
 may be necessary twice a week during the 
 warm summer months and only once a 
 week in cool weather. The interval be- 
 tween irrigations depends somewhat on 
 dryness of air and on temperature, but 
 more on diminishing soil moisture. When 
 rains begin, the plants may need little or 
 no irrigation. 
 
 The object of irrigation is to saturate 
 all of the soil in the root zone; then to 
 withhold water until the plants use most 
 of the available moisture. The exact time 
 
 [6] 
 
is usually indicated by both plant and 
 soil. The leaves of a plant properly 
 watered and fertilized will be large, 
 healthy, and succulent. Those of a plant 
 insufficiently watered will turn dull green 
 then gradually wilt. If insufficient soil 
 moisture continues, older leaves will de- 
 cline prematurely and dry. 
 
 How deep to irrigate. Water should 
 run long enough to soak all of the soil in 
 the root zone, which is usually one foot 
 or more deep. Place a hose at the upper 
 end of the furrow and let the water run 
 until the furrow is filled or the water has 
 had time to soak down to the proper 
 depth. 
 
 Importance of Salt-free Water 
 
 Use water almost entirely free of sol- 
 uble salts. Well water high in soluble salt 
 should not be used ; it will stunt the plants 
 and cause decline. Some people are forced 
 to buy water that is salt free rather than 
 to use local well water that is too high in 
 salt. If water reaches the danger point in 
 salt content, irrigate heavily at each 
 watering to help wash excess surface salt 
 down below the roots. 
 
 Indication of too much salt. There 
 is no simple test for determining salt con- 
 tent. Perhaps the best indication of too 
 much salt in soil or water is the severe 
 stunting of plants. 
 
 FERTILIZE IN GROWING SEASON FOR 
 HIGH-QUALITY FLOWERS 
 
 Chrysanthemum plants are called gross 
 feeders. They can exist and produce flow- 
 ers on soils of only medium fertility, but 
 unless they receive generous amounts of 
 nitrogenous fertilizer during the growing 
 season their flowers will be of poor qual- 
 ity. This is especially true of large- 
 flowered varieties and less so of small- 
 flowered varieties. 
 
 Soil Deficiencies 
 
 Most California soils become deficient 
 in nitrogen unless they are given manure 
 or some other form of organic or inor- 
 ganic fertilizer. Only occasionally are 
 chrysanthemum-growing soils deficient 
 in phosphate, and rarely in potash. 
 
 Nitrogen deficiency. This shows in 
 lack of succulence in stems and leaves. 
 This symptom is not conclusive, however, 
 because it is also a symptom of certain 
 diseases. Only by adding nitrogen to a 
 soil can the grower be certain of nitrogen 
 deficiency. 
 
 Phosphate deficiency. Poor plant 
 growth and pale-green leaves that are a 
 darker green near the petiole indicate 
 phosphate deficiency. Leaves may drop 
 from the base of the plant upward. This 
 
 deficiency is corrected with steamed bone 
 meal or superphosphate. 
 
 Potash deficiency. This is indicated 
 by weak plant stems and poor growth. 
 Leaves may be mottled green with brown- 
 ing at the edges. Here, again, application 
 of the deficient chemical is the only test 
 of deficiency. 
 
 Nitrogenous Fertilizers 
 
 Both organic and inorganic nitrogen 
 fertilizers, or a mixture of the two called 
 mixed fertilizer, are used as adjustments. 
 An organic fertilizer, such as fish meal, 
 can be supplemented with an inorganic 
 fertilizer, such as ammonium sulfate. 
 Manufactured sewage sludges are used, 
 but to a limited extent because the supply 
 is not plentiful and the cost is high in 
 proportion to the amount of nitrogen 
 present. Liquid nitrogen fertilizers have 
 been run in irrigation water, but scatter- 
 ing the dry fertilizer along the row is a 
 more commonly used practice among 
 amateur gardeners. 
 
 Amount of fertilizer to use. An 
 organic fertilizer containing 6 per cent 
 nitrogen can be used at the rate of 2 to 4 
 pounds or more per 100 square feet, two 
 
 [V] 
 
or three times during the growing season. 
 An inorganic fertilizer containing 20 per 
 cent nitrogen can be used at the rate of 
 18 ounces per 100 square feet. For a light 
 application this amount may be reduced 
 and used more often. 
 
 A mixed fertilizer containing 6 per cent 
 nitrogen can be used at the rate of 4 
 pounds per 100 square feet. Several light 
 applications may be better than one 
 heavy application. Weak liquid fertilizer 
 may be used to force plants for very 
 large flowers. This is applied weekly until 
 color begins to show in the flower buds. 
 
 How to use fertilizer. Organic fer- 
 tilizers are used when the soil is heavy 
 or is low in organic matter; commercial 
 inorganic fertilizers, when the soil needs 
 nitrogen only. The fertilizer is then car- 
 ried down 6 inches or more to the feed- 
 ing roots with the irrigation water. 
 
 Strong fertilizers must not come into con- 
 tact with the leaves of the plant. 
 
 Testing for right fertilizer. A 
 
 grower may not know which fertilizer 
 will give the best results. He can experi- 
 ment by laying out a test plot where dif- 
 ferent fertilizers are used, and a check 
 plot where no fertilizers are used, then 
 compare the results. Flower quality un- 
 iailingly indicates the comparative value 
 of fertilizers. Correctly fertilized plants 
 produce flowers of larger size and better 
 color, and have stronger stems and 
 greener foliage than plants that are not 
 given fertilizer. 
 
 Green-manure fertilizer. Growing 
 a green-manure crop to be turned under 
 is impractical. Often, at the very time the 
 crop should be turned under, the chrys- 
 anthemum seedlings are ready for plant- 
 ing. 
 
 REGULATE GROWTH FOR DESIRED EFFECTS 
 
 Growth is regulated by stopping or 
 pinching-back, disbudding, restricting 
 side shoots, training to cascade form, and 
 shading for early bloom. 
 
 Stopping or Pinching-back 
 
 This practice must be followed with 
 great care. Either pinching back too little 
 or too much will result in low-quality 
 flowers. The technique is the same for 
 all sizes and varieties of chrysanthemums. 
 The difference with each variety and size 
 is in where to pinch back. 
 
 How to pinch back. This is done 
 with the tips of thumb and forefinger. 
 The tip growth to be removed is usually 
 close to a bud in one of the leaf axils. 
 
 For young plants. A young plant 
 usually is well established in about two 
 weeks after it is set out. Begin to pinch out 
 new tip growth to encourage branching. 
 
 For medium-sized varieties. When 
 the young plant has developed three or 
 four eyes or buds in the axils of new- 
 growth leaves, pinch out the growing 
 tip. The remaining buds then can grow. 
 
 Select three or more of these new basal 
 shoots to form the flowering stems. Tests 
 have shown that a plant left with two 
 stems will produce flowers as large as a 
 plant with only one stem. A plant left 
 with three stems should produce flowers 
 of adequate size if given sufficient water 
 and fertilizer. 
 
 For tall-growing varieties. Some 
 vigorous and tall plants will need pinch- 
 ing-back several times before the stem 
 is allowed to continue growth for flower- 
 bud formation. Pinching-back must be 
 done carefully on tall-growing varieties. 
 Excessive pinching-back may delay flow- 
 ering and decrease flower size; insuffi- 
 cient pinching-back may result in very 
 tall, hard stems, and low-quality flowers. 
 The interval between the last pinching- 
 back and flowering is about 2% months 
 for late varieties and as much as 3% 
 months for some early varieties. 
 
 For early pompon varieties. Shad- 
 ing cloth is often used to bring about 
 early August flowering of Gold Coast, 
 Irene, Pinocchio, and Dark Pink Jewell. 
 
 [8] 
 
Under shading cloth, pinching-back 
 should not continue after the latter part 
 of April. 
 
 Disbudding 
 
 The terms first crown bud, second 
 crown bud, and terminal bud can con- 
 fuse the beginner. The illustration below 
 shows where these different buds are lo- 
 cated on the plant. 
 
 The first crown bud is the first bud 
 to form at the tip of a stem. The second 
 crown bud forms just below the first 
 crown bud, at the tip of new growth. 
 This bud forms on only a few varieties, 
 such as Alice Benson and Thomas W. 
 Pockett. The second crown bud some- 
 times makes a better flower than the first 
 crown bud. The terminal bud will ap- 
 pear in time if the plant is allowed to 
 continue its growth with the first and 
 second crown buds remaining. Terminal 
 buds develop last. 
 
 First and second crown buds. If the 
 first crown bud is saved, no terminal buds 
 are allowed to develop. For instance, if 
 the first crown bud is saved in a par- 
 
 Terminal bud 
 
 Here, a plant that has made good growth is 
 pinched back to encourage laterals. 
 
 ticular variety, such as Clara Curtis, then 
 all other buds are removed as they ap- 
 pear. 
 
 If the second crown bud is saved and 
 the first crown bud is removed, then all 
 
 Lateral 
 terminal bud 
 
 Terminal bud 
 
 Typical bud growth on a chrysanthemum, showing both terminal and lateral buds. Use this 
 photograph as a guide for disbudding. 
 
 [9] 
 
later buds are removed. There are many 
 varieties where both of the crown buds 
 are removed and terminal buds are se- 
 lected, as in Ambassador, Indianapolis, 
 and Orchid Queen. If anything should 
 happen to the terminal bud saved, then 
 the stem might as well be removed, be- 
 cause no more buds will form at the tip. 
 
 In some instances the choice between 
 crown buds and terminal buds is deter- 
 mined by bloom date. For example, a 
 delay of two weeks with W. H. Waite 
 will often give a more brilliant color; 
 therefore, the terminal bud might be bet- 
 ter than a crown bud. In some varieties 
 the crown bud aborts or is so small that 
 it will not make a good flower. Nothing 
 short of actual experience will indicate 
 whether crown buds or terminal buds 
 should be taken. 
 
 Terminal buds. These are produced 
 in clusters of a few to many. On small- 
 flowered varieties no attempt is made to 
 select buds or to disbud; many people 
 prefer the beautiful sprays produced on 
 all of the small-flowered varieties. The 
 plants will develop sprays of both crown 
 and terminal buds, but the mass of ter- 
 minal buds will give the desired cluster 
 effect. A few large pompon varieties are 
 disbudded, as are some large anemone 
 varieties and a few large singles. 
 
 Considerable surplus side growth will 
 develop after disbudding. It may be de- 
 sirable to check the plants occasionally 
 to remove this side growth, especially 
 the very late side buds growing low on 
 the stems. Unwanted late suckers should 
 also be removed. 
 
 How to disbud. Disbudding, like 
 pinching-back, is done with the tips of 
 thumb and forefinger. The unwanted bud 
 is broken off close to where it joins the 
 stem. Try not to leave a stub in the leaf 
 axil. A pointed pencil can be used to 
 break out a small bud. 
 
 Chrysanthemum plants should be gone 
 over repeatedly for several days or weeks 
 to complete the work of disbudding. 
 While bending over the plants, avoid 
 
 breaking tender selected buds. A little 
 experience will teach how to break un- 
 wanted buds gently, close to the main 
 stem so that no evidence of careless dis- 
 budding shows later. 
 
 Restricting Side Shoots 
 
 Most chrysanthemum growers select 
 three of the best stems on a plant for late 
 flowers. They remove all other basal 
 shoots. Only occasionally is a single stem 
 per plant left — this usually by commer- 
 cial growers. 
 
 How to remove shoots. These are 
 never torn from the plant. Tearing or 
 pulling them off leaves a ragged wound; 
 tearing can even peel the surface far down 
 the stem. A shoot is cut out with a sharp 
 knife, or pruning shears, or by pinching 
 out with thumb and forefinger. 
 
 Treatment of different varieties. 
 On small-flowered varieties only part of 
 each stem is left to blossom. Remaining 
 side shoots die out from natural shading; 
 others can be removed where necessary. 
 More stems are left on an extremely vigor- 
 ous plant, such as Alex Stribling, than 
 on a weak plant, such as Bobette, whose 
 size is not improved by thinning or dis- 
 budding. 
 
 Few gardeners would attempt to disbud 
 a single variety, such as Mrs. Bucking- 
 ham, or to spend much time thinning the 
 plant, because the size of flowers and 
 sprays would be about the same by either 
 treatment. This is also true of the smaller 
 pompons and many of the anemone va- 
 rieties. The larger, spider varieties need 
 well-planned restriction of side shoots, 
 especially for exhibition blooms. 
 
 Training to Cascade Forms 
 
 A few home gardeners who have time 
 and patience train chrysanthemum plants 
 for cascade effect. The technique, usually 
 practiced by fanciers for nursery or flow- 
 er-show exhibit, must be carefully fol- 
 lowed or should not be attempted. 
 
 Vigorous varieties with long, flexible 
 stems are trained best into large cascades. 
 
 [10] 
 
Less vigorous varieties with moderate- 
 length, slender stems and many flowers, 
 are best for small cascades. A spider 
 variety trained to cascade form is shown 
 below. Table 4 lists several varieties used 
 for cascades. 
 
 Varieties with only a few flowers do 
 not train satisfactorily, especially when 
 these few flowers are close to the base. 
 
 Cascade forms. There are several 
 satisfactory cascade forms. The heart 
 shape is the most popular. The fountain 
 also is well liked, and occasionally a 
 double cascade is seen at flower shows. 
 The thin or narrow cascade, occasionally 
 used, is not popular. 
 
 Pots and potting mixture. A terra 
 cotta pot, a flower jar, wooden tub, or 
 box, which can be kept at elevation dur- 
 ing the training period, are used for 
 planting. The starting pot for the young 
 plant is usually 4 to 6 inches in diameter. 
 As the plant roots grow to the walls of 
 the container, the plant is transferred to 
 a larger container. This process may be 
 repeated two or three times. The final 
 potting should be completed by about the 
 middle of August. At this time the plant 
 may be in a 10- or 12-inch container. 
 
 The transfer from one pot to another 
 must not disturb either roots or top 
 growth. If the solid earthen form encas- 
 ing the roots cannot be easily lifted from 
 the pot, the pot should be cracked, spread 
 apart, and the form removed. 
 
 The potting mixture can be 2 parts 
 fertile loam soil, 2 parts well-rotted oak 
 leaf mold, and 1 part well-rotted steer 
 manure. 
 
 Exposure for plant. A plant in train- 
 ing is placed in a warm, southern ex- 
 posure, protected from wind and rain. 
 The plant container is elevated on a bench 
 or shelf, at least 3% to 4 feet from the 
 ground so that the final cascading 
 branches will not touch the ground. In a 
 
 Small pompon, such as Nuggets (above), and 
 spider varieties, such as Sarah (below), can be 
 trained to cascade form with beautiful effect, 
 as shown here. 
 
greenhouse, set the pot near the front of 
 a bench. With adequate water and fer- 
 tilizer the plant should grow vigorously. 
 Length of training period. The 
 
 planting date for cascade forms is gauged 
 somewhat by variety. However, the young 
 plant or seedling is usually set out in 
 the 6-inch pot in early May. 
 
 The exact dates of training completion 
 vary according to variety and growing 
 conditions, but by September 15 the final 
 pinching-out of the plant should be com- 
 pleted. The training technique outlined 
 here holds true for all cascade varieties 
 regardless of varietal dates in planting 
 or flowering. 
 
 Steps of training. When the plant is 
 5 or 6 inches tall, the top is pinched out. 
 This encourages branching at the base. 
 From the branching growth is selected 
 the endmost shoot to be used as the main 
 leader. As growth continues, or in about 
 two or three weeks, begin to pinch out 
 all new side growth at every second or 
 third leaf joint until the first of Septem- 
 ber. After that date do not pinch out 
 any more side growth. 
 
 When the plant is about 12 inches tall, 
 frame-training can begin. Insert a frame- 
 work of 10- or 12-gauge galvanized iron 
 wire to which the stems will be tied. A 
 single wire, 3 feet long, will be adequate 
 at first, but, as training continues, addi- 
 tional wire, 4 feet long, will have to be 
 inserted. Commercial plant ties are very 
 useful for fastening stems to the wire 
 supports. 
 
 The main leader is lowered gradually 
 as the wire support is bent down farther. 
 One by one the laterals also are bent. 
 Beginning 5 inches above the surface 
 level, they are tied to training wire that 
 is bent at an angle of 45 degrees. This 
 gradual downward bending of all wires 
 continues until middle September, when 
 the plant should be almost horizontal. 
 The stems should still be flexible. 
 
 The lateral stems, whose buds were 
 pinched out repeatedly, are now ready 
 to be spread out in equal numbers on 
 
 either side of the main leader to produce 
 a well-balanced plant. The still-flexible 
 stems are tied into position and will 
 gradually form the planned shape of the 
 whole plant. 
 
 Cascade plants tend to start blooming 
 at the tip, ahead of side or lower branches. 
 This tendency can be changed by com- 
 pleting the pinching-out of basal laterals 
 around the first of September. The broad- 
 est part of the plant will be completed 
 about five days later; the midsection in 
 another five days, or by about September 
 10; and complete pinching-out of the tip 
 will be accomplished by the middle of 
 September. This gradual completion of 
 pinching-out from base to tip over a 
 period of about 15 days encourages an 
 even maturity of flowers over the entire 
 plant. 
 
 The flower buds forming after the last 
 pinching-out will weight the stems and 
 aid the wires in bending the plant down- 
 ward. Bending usually is completed by 
 the time flower buds show color. At that 
 time all stems should point downward, 
 with side branches hanging in final form 
 as a fan. 
 
 Shading for Early Bloom 
 
 Shading is a technique used by some 
 gardeners and commercial growers to 
 produce very early bloom. Its effect on 
 size and quality of bloom has been tested 
 by growers in central California; more 
 tests are needed to determine its full suc- 
 cess with chrysanthemums in other areas. 
 
 What shading does. It limits day 
 length to 12 to 13 hours for approxi- 
 mately 40 days during June, July, and 
 August. The exact number of days is 
 gauged by varietal differences. Correctly 
 done, shading can advance the bloom 
 date by 25 to 56 days. 
 
 Shading not only regulates light inten- 
 sity; it also conserves moisture in soil 
 and air. The increase in humidity under 
 cloth tends to reduce water requirements. 
 It raises the temperature about 1 to 3 
 degrees Fahrenheit, which is satisfactory 
 
 [12] 
 
to some varieties but unsatisfactory to 
 those that do not form buds in tempera- 
 tures below 60° F. 
 
 Amount of light needed. Duration 
 of light rather than variation in normal 
 light intensity regulates the time of flow- 
 er-bud formation. Anything above 4,300 
 foot-candles of light will probably be 
 adequate for the 12 hours of daylight 
 allowed to shaded plants. The light under 
 greenhouse conditions varies between 
 4,300 and 4,400 foot-candles. The light 
 under black shading cloth is cut to less 
 than 50 foot-candles. 
 
 If the weather is overcast during the 
 normal shading period, shade only on 
 alternate days; otherwise failing plant 
 strength will cause the stems to remain 
 short. Unless the plants are adequately 
 watered and fertilized and given sufficient 
 light, air humidity, and ventilation, this 
 marked variation in shading technique 
 will leave the weakened plant highly sus- 
 ceptible to fungus troubles. 
 
 Effect on bud formation. Shading 
 tends to cause terminal rather than crown 
 buds to form. This is satisfactory for 
 those varieties on which a terminal bud 
 is selected. But for such varieties as Alice 
 Benson, Clara Curtis, and Unaka, on 
 which a crown bud is selected, shading 
 may not be desirable. 
 
 Effect on bloom size and quality. 
 This was tested by the Ohio Agricultural 
 Experiment Station on such varieties as 
 Ambassador, Betsy Ross, Chieftain, 
 Friendly Rival, Golden Bronze, and In- 
 dianapolis. The experiment indicated that 
 shading did not materially affect size and 
 quality of bloom, whether two or three 
 stems were left on a plant or only one. 
 
 Varieties responding to shading. 
 
 Early midseason varieties respond best 
 to shading; they require about 36 days 
 of shade. Many of the pompons respond 
 to shading. They require 36 to 40 days 
 or more of shade, depending on the 
 variety, with the cloth removed when the 
 buds begin to show color. 
 
 Large standard varieties will probably 
 need shading for approximately 40 days 
 in June and July. Very good results can 
 be expected in about 40 days for such 
 large varieties as Ambassador, Hilda 
 Bergen, Indianola, Silver Sheen, and 
 Snow White. Shading should continue 
 with these varieties until the flower buds 
 are showing color. 
 
 The harvest season for both large- and 
 small-flowered varieties can be extended 
 by planting at intervals of one to two 
 weeks, rather than all at one time. 
 
 Hours of shading. The cloth is pulled 
 over the plants at about 5 p.m. daily. It 
 is removed the next morning between 7 
 and 8 a.m. 
 
 Treatment of cloth. Black shading 
 cloth comes in bolts of 100 yards, one 
 yard wide. Various grades are sold, but a 
 black sateen known as Windsor cloth no. 
 375, with a mesh of 64 x 104 to the inch, 
 proved best in the tests reported by the 
 Ohio Agricultural Experiment Station. 
 This cloth admitted only 1.9 foot-candles 
 of light, or 0.04 per cent of the total light. 
 
 Shading cloth is usually sewed together 
 to make 5- or 10-foot strips. For tall vari- 
 eties, the top shading cloth should have 
 a side clearance of about 5 feet, and an 
 allowance of 5 feet for side curtains. Al- 
 lowance must also be made for some 
 sagging of the cloth between supports. 
 
 CLASSIFICATION 
 
 VARIETAL TABLES 
 
 Chrysanthemums are classified according to certain characteristics of their blooms. A 
 description of the classifications, together with illustrations of some, begins on page 23. 
 Tables listing a great many varieties and comments on each begin on page 30. 
 
 [13] 
 
PRODUCE NEW VARIETIES BY SEEDING AND 
 SELECTING BEST OF SEEDLINGS 
 
 The term new variety usually means 
 a new, cultivated form developed from 
 seed. Only occasionally does it mean a 
 new variety accidentally appearing in the 
 garden by mutation. About three years 
 of testing are needed to determine the 
 nature and worth of any new seedling 
 variety. Only then, and after it has met 
 the approval of national chrysanthemum 
 organizations and leading fanciers, is it 
 named. The name chosen is one not yet 
 used for a chrysanthemum variety. 
 
 The simple manual techniques of seed- 
 ing, planting, pollinating, and cultivating 
 are easier to learn than the more difficult 
 details of line-breeding. Line-breeding 
 calls for a knowledge of good parent stock 
 and of the desirable inheritable charac- 
 teristics from such stock. 
 
 New Varieties by Line-breeding 
 
 Good parent stock. The experienced 
 breeder in time learns which parents give 
 rise to desirable seedlings. He also learns 
 which characters are inherited in pure 
 form from each parent. Line-breeding 
 may be used to determine the nature of 
 inheritance. 
 
 Desirable inheritable character- 
 istics. These are good stem, color, size, 
 and flower form. Each of these charac- 
 teristics must be considered when inspect- 
 ing the inherited characters in seedlings. 
 
 Producing the seedlings. Seed is 
 produced on single-stem plants grown in 
 the garden or in pots in a greenhouse. 
 Only a small amount of fertilizer is 
 needed in either type of planting. The 
 flowers of garden plants are covered with 
 a cellophane bag to help exclude foreign 
 pollen and to lessen danger of early rain 
 damage. The flowers of greenhouse plants 
 also are covered with a bag, to exclude 
 foreign pollen that might accidentally be 
 introduced by insects. 
 
 Before any pollen is shed, both petals 
 and stamens are removed from each 
 
 flower. The pollen from the desired parent 
 is then introduced when the pistils are 
 receptive, that is, when the pollen grains 
 are sticking to the stigma. Records of 
 both seed and pollen parent are kept. 
 
 . Seeds ripen in about six weeks; they 
 are sown immediately in any good, light 
 soil mixture in air temperature of 60° F. 
 When the seedlings become crowded, they 
 are transplanted. They should flower the 
 first year. 
 
 New Varieties by Mutation 
 
 Occasionally a new color form will ap- 
 pear on a plant as the result of mutation. 
 This sudden and permanent change in a 
 plant or on part of a plant may be a 
 desirable mutation that can be repro- 
 duced true to the new form by rooting 
 stem cuttings in the usual way. Selections 
 are made at flowering, when it is possible 
 to see whether the new color or form 
 of the plant is uniform. Any plant not 
 conforming to the new color or form 
 should be discarded. 
 
 Experiments in Chrysanthemum 
 Breeding 
 
 There are almost no references on 
 chrysanthemum breeding. One, coau- 
 thored by Elmer D. Smith and Alex 
 Laurie, and now out of print, is listed 
 among the references in this circular. In 
 earlier years, Mr. Smith of Adrian, 
 Michigan, introduced many varieties that 
 are still popular. 
 
 In time, reference material may result 
 from experiments being conducted by 
 the United States Department of Agricul- 
 ture at the Horticultural Station at Belts- 
 ville, Maryland, and by the universities 
 of Chicago and Minnesota. Experiments 
 conducted by the Oakland, California, 
 Park Department have produced several 
 new varieties. The Park Department has 
 held a chrysanthemum show annually 
 since 1940. 
 
 [14] 
 
CONTROL PESTS AND DISEASES 
 
 Several pests and diseases attack the 
 chrysanthemum, sometimes with very 
 damaging results. Neither all of the pests 
 nor all of the diseases described attack 
 in one garden or in one locality, but, 
 because they all do occur in the state, 
 growers should be able to recognize them 
 and know about their control. To begin 
 yearly with healthy cuttings and attempt 
 to plant in uninfested soil is probably the 
 best means of controlling both insects 
 and diseases. 
 
 When using any chemical spray or dust 
 for either pests or diseases carefully fol- 
 low the directions printed on the container. 
 This will assure more successful results and 
 will serve to warn the user if the chemical 
 is poisonous to human beings and animals 
 and must be handled with unusual caution. 
 
 Pests 
 
 The most important pests attacking the 
 chrysanthemum are aphids, caterpillars, 
 chrysanthemum gall midges, ground 
 mealybugs, leaf miners, spider mites, and 
 thrips. 
 
 Aphids. These include the chrysanthe- 
 mum aphid (Macrosiphum sanborni) , 
 cotton aphid (Aphis gossypii) , green 
 peach aphid {Myzus persicae) , leaf-curl 
 plum aphid {Aphis helichrysi) , and 
 thistle aphid (Anur aphis cardui) . Aphids 
 or plant lice attack either in the garden 
 or under cloth and glass. Their damage 
 to the plant is in a mottling of the leaves 
 or flowers and an accumulation of honey- 
 dew on the plant. 
 
 Begin control as soon as aphid colonies 
 appear. Control can be complete with 
 weekly applications of any one of such 
 insecticides as nicotine sulfate, benzene 
 hexachloride, lindane (which is the pure 
 gamma form of benzene hexachloride), 
 pyrethrum, and light oil emulsions. Sev- 
 eral new products being tested show 
 promise. Some of them may become sub- 
 stitutes for older products that have been 
 used for many years. 
 
 Caterpillars and other leaf-eating 
 insects. These include the greenhouse 
 leaf tier (Phlyctaenia rubigalis) , checker 
 spot butterfly (Euphydryas chalcedona) , 
 orange tortrix {Argyrotaenia citrana) , 
 and sometimes the woolly bear caterpillar 
 of the acraea moth {Estigmene acraea) . 
 Caterpillars occasionally attack opening 
 buds and late-season flowers, but with 
 limited damage. If only a few such cater- 
 pillars appear, eliminate them by hand 
 picking. 
 
 In control, use a 50 per cent wettable 
 DDT at the rate of about % ounce to a 
 gallon of water for all leaf-eating insects 
 except the woolly bear caterpillar and the 
 orange tortrix. Use pyrethrum sprays or 
 dusts in repeated applications to destroy 
 these two pests. 
 
 Chrysanthemum gall midges (Di- 
 arthronomyia chrysanthemi) . This pest 
 can seriously damage leaves and growing 
 tips of chrysanthemums, especially if 
 plants are not started from healthy cut- 
 tings each year. The adult midge lays 
 
 Distortion of this leaf was caused by the chrys- 
 anthemum gall fly or midge. 
 
 [15] 
 
clusters of tiny red eggs on the leaves 
 or young tips, and the small maggots that 
 hatch soon penetrate the tissues to pro- 
 duce cone-shaped galls or raised bumps 
 on leaves and stems. A serious infesta- 
 tion will stop all plant growth and deform 
 remaining stems and buds. This pest is 
 more serious in shade than in sunlight, 
 either in the garden or under cloth and 
 glass. Highly susceptible varieties are 
 White Mensa and Golden Mensa. 
 
 Prevention is the best method of con- 
 trol. Plants started yearly from clean tip 
 cuttings will probably not be attacked. 
 Control with chemicals must begin early 
 to be successful. Benzene hexachloride 
 gives satisfactory control. Lindane is not 
 so satisfactory. Allow % ounce of 10 to 
 12 per cent gamma isomer benzene hexa- 
 chloride to 3% gallons of water. 
 
 Ground mealybugs (Rhizoecus fal- 
 cijer) . This pest is much smaller than the 
 common mealybug, such as Baker's 
 mealybug. It lives on the roots of her- 
 baceous plants, including the chrysanthe- 
 mum. If the roots of a plant become 
 infested, yet the variety cannot be re- 
 placed easily, take off healthy tip cuttings 
 and root these. If these healthy cuttings 
 are planted in new soil uninfested with 
 the pest, the roots will not become in- 
 fested. 
 
 Again prevention is the best method of 
 control. Starting with healthy cuttings 
 yearly and planting in a new garden loca- 
 tion is best. If the pests appear, expose 
 them to dehydration by cultivating the 
 beds. Ground mealybugs cannot endure 
 exposure and consequent drying-out. 
 Before planting in an area known to be 
 infested, cultivate the soil for about six 
 weeks to dry it out. This may rid the bed 
 of all pests. For greenhouse cultivation, 
 sterilize potting or bench soil before 
 planting. 
 
 Control by spray is not successful 
 around the roots of infested plants. Im- 
 planted beds can be fumigated with ethy- 
 lene dibromide or dichloroethyl ether to 
 destroy any insects present. 
 
 Leaf miners. The chrysanthemum 
 leaf miner {Phytomyza atricornis) , the 
 burdock leaf miner {Dizygomyza macu- 
 losa) , and perhaps other species, such as 
 Agromyza setosa, may attack chrysanthe- 
 mum stems and leaves. The small maggots 
 tunnel through the surface tissues and 
 discolor the affected parts. Winding 
 mines or blotches just beneath the sur- 
 face tissue indicate leaf miner damage. 
 The adults may also puncture the tissues. 
 Severe injury makes the foliage un- 
 sightly ; it may also cause premature leaf 
 drop. 
 
 For control, some of the new insecti- 
 cides, including chlordane, benzene hexa- 
 chloride, and lindane, are promising. Al- 
 low % to 1 ounce of actual chlordane — 
 preferably in wettable powder form — to 
 3% gallons of water. Benzene hexachlo- 
 ride and lindane may be used at the rate 
 of V2 ounce of 25 per cent gamma isomer 
 to 3% gallons of water. This spray should 
 be effective if applied at intervals of from 
 one to two weeks. 
 
 Spider mites (Tetranychus bimacu- 
 latus) . The common red-spider mite or 
 two-spotted mite, found on many plants, 
 is sometimes a pest on chrysanthemum 
 leaves. It increases very rapidly under 
 cloth or glass. This mite forms a small, 
 thin web on leaves and flowers. It hides 
 mostly on the underside of the leaves. By 
 sucking the juices, it drains the green 
 color, which leaves a blotched effect. The 
 leaf is then weakened. 
 
 Control of the two-spotted mite with 
 sulfur dust is not very effective. A trade 
 product known as Aramite is very effec- 
 tive. It is available directly from chemical 
 supply companies but not usually avail- 
 able in small-sized packages from garden 
 supply houses. A combination spray 
 packaged in small amounts for use in the 
 home garden is planned by a large chemi- 
 cal company in California; the two mate- 
 rials to be used are malathon and lindane, 
 which should control such chrysanthe- 
 mum pests as mites, aphids, and cater- 
 pillars. 
 
 [16] 
 
Thrips. Several kinds of thrips may 
 attack chrysanthemum plants, includ- 
 ing flower thrips, onion thrips, chrysan- 
 themum thrips (Thrips nigropilosus) , 
 banded greenhouse or sugar beet thrips 
 (Hercinothrips femoralis) , and statice 
 thrips [Haplothrips leucanthemi) . These 
 small, rasping insects attack tender 
 growth, where they produce scar tissue. 
 In severe infestations all new growth may 
 be stopped. 
 
 Control by several new insecticides is 
 prompt and effective. DDT, benzene hexa- 
 chloride, and lindane sprays or dusts are 
 very effective. Start control before dam- 
 age is severe. The same amounts of DDT, 
 benzene hexachloride, and lindane used 
 to control leaf miners, midges, and leaf- 
 eating insects will also control thrips. 
 
 Miscellaneous insects. Chrysanthe- 
 mums are attacked by other insects, such 
 as plant bugs, leafhoppers, and whiteflies. 
 
 Plant bugs (Lygus bugs) occasion- 
 ally damage both flowers and leaves. 
 Where they feed at the base of a flower, 
 that point ceases to develop and growth 
 becomes one-sided. Where they feed at 
 the young leaf buds, the leaves show a 
 lacy perforation. 
 
 Control by growing the plants under 
 cloth or glass is fairly effective. Chemical 
 control is by spray, with 50 per cent wet- 
 table DDT at the rate of % ounce to a 
 gallon of water. 
 
 Leafhoppers occasionally are trou- 
 blesome. These may be checked by the 
 same proportions of 50 per cent wettable 
 DDT spray used for plant bugs. 
 
 Whiteflies sometimes spread to chrys- 
 anthemums from nearby host plants. 
 Control by a spray of DDT and summer 
 oil is effective. Oil combinations with 
 nicotine sulfate or pyrethrum give fair 
 control. 
 
 Diseases 
 
 Diseases to which chrysanthemums are 
 susceptible are aster yellows; basal rot 
 of cuttings; Deuterophoma disease; leaf 
 spot; petal blight; powdery mildew; 
 
 rust; spotted wilt; verticillium wilt; and 
 virus stunt. 
 
 Aster yellows. This virus disease, 
 also known as Yellows, may attack chrys- 
 anthemums. Infective leafhoppers spread 
 it from diseased host plants. The pest may 
 be excluded to some extent by cloth or 
 glass. Since there is no cure or control, 
 select cuttings from healthy plants only. 
 
 Basal rot of cuttings. Basal rot of 
 soft green cuttings is seen occasionally 
 in propagating benches. It causes serious 
 losses from January to April if cuttings 
 are kept very wet at a cool temperature. 
 Sclerotinia sclerotiorum, as well as 
 species of Fusarium and Pythium, may 
 be involved. Good ventilation and small 
 amounts of moisture during rooting are 
 important preventives. The best control 
 is to take cuttings only from healthy 
 plants and root them in a sterile medium, 
 such as vermiculite. Rooting under glass 
 or muslin rather than in dense shade re- 
 duces the danger of basal rot. 
 
 Treating the base of cuttings with Fer- 
 mate has been attempted. Results were 
 spotty, perhaps because too many differ- 
 ent organisms were involved, some of 
 which are effectively controlled by Fer- 
 mate and others not. 
 
 Deuterophoma disease. This slow- 
 acting disease is caused by a fungus that 
 invades the vascular system of the plant. 
 The fungus is soil-borne, and once it in- 
 fests the soil it will attack even clean cut- 
 tings. Affected plants often bloom earlier 
 than healthy plants, and develop a stunted 
 appearance similar to that caused by 
 virus stunt. Healthy plants set into in- 
 fected soil will produce normal flowers 
 the first season; cuttings taken from the 
 plant, however, will produce badly 
 stunted plants the second season. 
 
 The only possible control for Deutero- 
 phoma disease is to use disease-free cut- 
 tings, and even these can be attacked by 
 soil-borne infestation. 
 
 Leaf spot. Septoria leaf spot is caused 
 by two different species of Septoria: S. 
 chrysanthemi and S, obesa. The form S. 
 
 [17] 
 
Flower blight here was caused by Botrytis cinerea (see petal blight, below). The healthy flower at 
 extreme right is shown for comparison. (Courtesy Department Plant Pathology.) 
 
 chrysanthemi produces dark leaf blotches 
 up to % inch in diameter. Lower leaves 
 are affected first. The diseased leaves soon 
 die, but may continue to cling to their 
 stems. S. obesa produces the same general 
 symptoms. 
 
 Septoria leaf spot is primarily a green- 
 house trouble. It should not occur if ven- 
 tilation is adequate and if irrigating is 
 done without splashing. If it does occur, 
 it can be checked to some extent by spray- 
 ing with Parzate, Fermate, or Dithane 
 D-14. 
 
 Petal blight. The fungus Botrytis 
 cinerea causes petal blight. It may be ex- 
 pected during cool weather when exces- 
 sive moisture remains on flower heads for 
 several hours. Among the varieties sus- 
 ceptible are Arcadia, Jewell, Nellie Pock- 
 ett, White Mensa, and Yellow Dot. 
 
 Control is by preventive measures. 
 Plan the chrysanthemum beds for ade- 
 quate ventilation so that excessive mois- 
 ture cannot remain on the flowers during 
 cool, wet weather. Under cloth, plants will 
 be less likely to suffer blight if intermit- 
 tent openings are left in the roof. There 
 will be far less humidity during rainy 
 weather under cloth ventilated in this way 
 than under a solid cloth roof. 
 
 Powdery mildew (Erysiphe cichora- 
 cearum) . This white fungus often attacks 
 
 the leaves of plants, grown in shady spots, 
 during the latter part of the growing sea- 
 son. The leaves are covered with a white 
 mildew fungus that resembles rose mil- 
 dew. 
 
 Control is with liquid-sulfur sprays and 
 sulfur dusts. A 1 per cent lime sulfur 
 solution and a wettable sulfur spray have 
 also been used. Follow the directions 
 given on the containers. 
 
 Rust (Puccinia chrysanthemi) . Rust 
 fungus blights the leaves and in time 
 covers the affected foliage with dusty, 
 brown spores. 
 
 The best control is to destroy all badly 
 affected plants and to start yearly with 
 disease-free new cuttings on ground 
 where the fungus has not occurred. 
 
 - 1 ':■' 
 
 V.' 
 
 
 Chrysanthemum rust pustules on the backs of 
 leaves. (Courtesy Department Plant Pathology.) 
 
 [18] 
 
Control tests conducted in California 
 in 1949 indicated that rust may be con- 
 trolled with either Parzate or Dithane 
 D-14 applied at weekly intervals. Parzate 
 is used at the rate of % ounce to a gallon 
 of water. Dithane D-14 is applied at the 
 rate of about % fluid ounce to a gallon 
 of water. Zinc sulfate is added to the 
 Dithane D-14 spray at the rate of about 
 % ounce to a gallon of water. 
 
 A spreader or sticker is added to either 
 spray material. For example, if du Pont 
 Grasselli Spreader-Sticker is used, the 
 rate is 1 part to 1,000 parts of spray. 
 Any spreader should be used according 
 to instructions on the container. Spray- 
 ing should begin at the first appearance 
 of rust spots, with the spray completely 
 covering the under surface of the leaves. 
 Verticillium wilt (Verticillium albo- 
 atrum) . This fungus is not limited to soils 
 in which chrysanthemums grow. It has 
 often severely injured field crops, such 
 as cotton, tomatoes, and strawberries. 
 
 Leaves of chrysanthemum plants at- 
 tacked tend to wilt at the margins then 
 turn brown. They die progressively up- 
 ward from the base of the plant. If blos- 
 soms are affected, the outer petals look 
 burned. 
 
 Verticillium wilt can be suspected 
 when many dead leaves appear near the 
 base of a plant and dying leaves spread 
 upward. A cross-sectioning of the stem 
 near the ground may show a discoloration 
 or browning of the woody tissue, also 
 a symptom of the disease. 
 
 Visibly sick plants showing stunted 
 growth are usually considered beyond 
 recovery and are discarded. Sometimes, 
 however, a grower may attempt to save 
 a severely infected yet valuable plant for 
 its cuttings. He may hope to control the 
 wilt to a small degree by growing the 
 plant with a scanty amount of soil 
 rnoisture. This is a drastic, emergency 
 treatment, recommended only for a valu- 
 able plant. When the time is ready for 
 cuttings they should be taken from the 
 plant only at the 18-inch level. 
 
 A temperature of 60 to 75° F is most 
 favorable for the disease, but if a plant 
 is already infected, the fungus may per- 
 sist beyond this range of temperature. 
 
 Preventive rather than control meas- 
 ures are used with verticillium wilt. Avoid 
 planting chrysanthemums on the same 
 soil continuously for several years. To 
 do so leads to the soil's increased sus- 
 
 Effect of verticillium wilt on leaves of chrysan- 
 themum (above) and on stems (below). The 
 disease is caused by a soil-borne fungus. (Cour- 
 tesy Department Plant Pathology.) 
 
 119] 
 
ceptibility to the disease, especially if 
 the soil is kept fairly moist and at a tem- 
 perature of 60 to 75° F. 
 
 For greenhouse planting, sterilize the 
 soil used in pots or beds. A limited 
 amount of soil can be sterilized with 1 cc 
 of chloropicrin to a gallon of soil. Some 
 people use up to 7 to 10 cc of chloro- 
 picrin to a cubic foot of soil, although 
 the smaller amount has proved adequate 
 in central California. 
 
 For garden and field planting do not 
 use soil where susceptible crops, such as 
 cotton, tomatoes, and strawberries, have 
 grown; and do not use soil in which ver- 
 ticillium wilt has actually appeared. If 
 space is limited, and the same soil must 
 be used yearly, select varieties that are 
 resistant. The grower should therefore 
 know what varieties are resistant and 
 what are susceptible. A few varieties are 
 listed here according to whether they are : 
 (R) resistant; (M) moderately resistant; 
 and (S) susceptible. 
 
 Large commercial and exhibition varieties: 
 
 Albatross (S) 
 Ambassador (M) 
 Anaconda (S) 
 Apricot Queen (M) 
 Betsy Ross (R) 
 Bronze Frick (S) 
 Bronze Orchid Queen (S) 
 Detroit News (R) 
 Friendly Rival (R) 
 Garnet King (R) 
 Gladys Pearson (S) 
 Good News (R) 
 Helen Frick (S) 
 Hilda Bergen (S) 
 Indianola (R) 
 Ivanhoe (M) 
 J. W. Prince (R) 
 Ma j. Bowes (M) 
 Monument (R) 
 Orchid Queen (S) 
 Penrod (S) 
 Pink Turner (S) 
 Silver Sheen (R) 
 Snow White (M) 
 Thanksgiving Pink (R) 
 William Turner (S) 
 Yellow Ambassador (M) 
 Yellow Monument (R) 
 Yellow Turner (S) 
 
 Anemone varieties: 
 
 Dark Pink Norma (M) 
 Enchantress (S) 
 Estrelita (R) 
 Frieda (S) 
 Garza Supreme (S) 
 Little America (R) 
 Long Island Beauty (R) 
 Nevada (S) 
 Norma (M) 
 •Orchid Beauty (R) 
 Shasta (S) 
 The Titan (M) 
 Yolanda (S) 
 
 Pompon and decorative varieties: 
 
 Arcadia (R) 
 
 Avalanche (R) 
 
 Burgundy (R) 
 
 Clara Jameson Improved (R) 
 
 Firebird (R) 
 
 Gold Coast (M) 
 
 Golden Feather (Source d'Or) (R) 
 
 Irene (R) 
 
 Jewel (R) 
 
 Lillian Doty (R) 
 
 Masterpiece (R) 
 
 Navaho (R) 
 
 Nuggets (R-) 
 
 Pink Dot (R) 
 
 Pinocchio (R) 
 
 Robin Hood (M) 
 
 Seafoam (R) 
 
 Seagull (R) 
 
 Thyra (R) 
 
 William Doty (R) 
 
 Yellow Bushnell (M) 
 
 Yellow Fellow (R) 
 
 Yellow Hammer (R) 
 
 Single varieties: 
 
 Dark Pink Valencia (S) 
 Ida Skiff (R) 
 October Pink (M) 
 Valencia (S) 
 
 Hardy varieties: 
 
 Indian Summer (R) 
 Normandy (R) 
 
 Virus stunt. This disease is trans- 
 mitted to chrysanthemums by aphids 
 that have fed on diseased plants; and by 
 cultural operations, such as tilling, fer- 
 tilizing, disbudding, and tying, where 
 implements or the grower's hands are 
 contaminated by work on diseased plants. 
 
 [20 
 
In most commercial varieties the disease 
 takes from 4 to 6 months, and in some 
 varieties 10 months, to become notice- 
 able. Affected flowers bloom too early, 
 on stems much shorter than normal. 
 Color-fading follows — red flowers tend- 
 ing to fade into yellow or dirty white. 
 
 There is no control of virus stunt ex- 
 cept to start with disease-free rooted cut- 
 tings. At present, disease-free rooted 
 cuttings are available only in the eastern 
 states. In time, guaranteed disease-free 
 cuttings may become available in Cali- 
 fornia so that chrysanthemum fanciers 
 will be in a position to start with healthy 
 stock. 
 
 Miscellaneous diseases. Other dis- 
 eases occasionally attacking chrysan- 
 themums include bacterial fasciation; 
 rhizoctonia root rot; and stem canker or 
 stem rot. 
 
 Bacterial fasciation or "cauliflower" 
 condition is caused by Bacterium fas- 
 cians. When found, it is on stems close 
 to the ground in both garden and green- 
 house. The best control is to propagate 
 with disease-free cuttings and to plant in 
 disease-free soil. 
 
 Rhizoctonia root rot is caused by 
 the fungus Rhizoctonia solani. It severely 
 damages chrysanthemum plants grown in 
 the open by a brown rot that develops 
 at the base of the plant. The fungus is 
 not limited to chrysanthemums; it at- 
 tacks several kinds of ornamental plants 
 and thus provides many sources of in- 
 fection. 
 
 Control is preventive. Since the fungus 
 may live over in the soil from one year 
 to the next, gardeners should try to plant 
 in disease-free soil. Some gardeners have 
 even replaced soil where rotation was im- 
 possible. Potting with sterile soil should 
 also help. 
 
 Stem canker or stem rot, caused by the 
 fungus Sclerotinia sclerotiorum, also at- 
 tacks several different kinds of plants. 
 It is one of the soil-borne and wind-borne 
 diseases that is hard to control in most 
 gardens. 
 
 In the soil-borne phase, the stems near 
 the ground level are attacked. This is in- 
 dicated by a white surface mold that 
 causes the plants to wilt and suddenly 
 die. In the wind-borne phase, the leaves, 
 blossoms, and stems are attacked by 
 spores blown from surrounding weeds or 
 infected plants of many kinds or from 
 small mushrooms formed on the garden 
 soil by the disease. 
 
 Control is by preventive measures. It 
 consists of planting in disease-free soil, 
 even to replacing infested soil with dis- 
 ease-free soil and to planting in sterilized 
 soil. These precautions, however, do not 
 rule out the possibility of wind-borne 
 infection. Irrigation also is an important 
 factor. Do not keep the soil around the 
 plants too wet; and do not water over- 
 head. Wide spacing between the plants 
 also is important. Remove and burn all 
 diseased clumps. 
 
 Plant in foreground was affected by stunt dis- 
 ease. Compare its height with that of normal 
 plant in background. 
 
 [21] 
 
USE EITHER COMBINED-SPRAY OR SEPARATE- 
 SPRAY PROGRAM 
 
 Combined-spray control for various 
 pests and diseases is used by some gar- 
 deners; separate sprays for the different 
 pests and diseases as they actually appear 
 are used by others. This difference in 
 choice depends on the numbers and kinds 
 of pests and diseases present or antici- 
 pated. If only one pest or disease is 
 involved or if the combined spray is not 
 entirely effective, then to use separate 
 sprays may be the best plan. 
 
 DDT is combined with chlordane and 
 wettable sulfur, and also with summer 
 oils and lindane. Nicotine sulfate is com- 
 bined with DDT, summer oils, and wet- 
 table sulfur, but is not used with lindane. 
 
 Wettable DDT is used for chewing in- 
 sects, the gall fly or midge, and thrips; 
 Toxaphene for chewing insects, aphids, 
 mites, and thrips; lindane for gall flies or 
 midges, leaf miners, and thrips. Parzate, 
 Fermate, and Dithane D-14 are used for 
 some kinds of leaf spot, powdery mildew, 
 rust, and damping-off. 
 
 The container for each spray material 
 usually lists combinations permitted and 
 combinations to be avoided. The label 
 should also indicate whether the spray is 
 poisonous. If directions do not appear on 
 the container or cannot otherwise be ob- 
 tained, ask an authority, such as the Farm 
 Advisor or a reputable nurseryman. 
 
 SELECT EXHIBITION BLOOMS ACCORDING 
 TO FIVE MARKET GRADES 
 
 Few home gardeners are interested in Small-flowered varieties or pompons 
 the market grading of chrysanthemums, are listed as First, Extra, Fancy, and Spe- 
 But growers attempting to produce high- cial. Stems of Extra and Fancy grades are 
 quality exhibition blooms should know 20 to 30 inches long; stems of Special are 
 by what measurement they can select 24 to 36 inches. Stems should be reason- 
 suitable flowers. ably straight; foliage and flowers should 
 On some of the eastern markets the be free of insect injury, disease, or other 
 large-flowered varieties are grouped into blemishes. 
 
 five grades by size. Stem length is 30 When selecting flowers for exhibit, 
 inches or longer; foliage and flowers choose only those that most nearly meet 
 should be free of insect injury, disease, or the grade requirements given by the New 
 other blemishes. Grades of large dis- York State Flower Growers, 
 budded chrysanthemums, approved by Chrysanthemum flowers are picked for 
 the New York State Flower Growers, are both home use and exhibition when they 
 as follows: are in prime condition. If picked when 
 Grades of large Flower diameter somewhat immature, flowers tend to wilt 
 disbudded chrysanthemums (inches) prematurely; if picked when too old- 
 Exhibition More than 7 that is ' when the y have started to fade - 
 
 Special 6-7 chrysanthemums cannot be expected to 
 
 Fancy .............. 5-6 last very long. 
 
 £ X |- ra 4^5 The flowers of single, open-center vari- 
 
 pj rst L egg than 4 et * es snou ^ d be picked when the first two 
 
 outer rows of stamens have appeared. 
 
 Stem length is 30 inches or longer ; foliage Flowers of larger varieties should be 
 
 and flowers are free of insect injury, dis- picked when the petals are well matured, 
 
 ease, or other blemishes. but have not yet begun to fade. 
 
 [22] 
 
CLASSIFICATION OF CHRYSANTHEMUMS 
 
 Chrysanthemum flowers are classified as to form, size, and color, and sometimes 
 as to season of bloom and resistance to cold (table 2). Some fanciers are interested 
 in training plants into some special form, such as cascade (table 4) or fountain. A 
 few chrysanthemums are flowered in pots for exhibition. Odd forms (table 3) may 
 be of interest. 
 
 Nurserymen who sell plants have classes such as those listed in the tables, but no 
 widely recognized system of classification for exhibition purposes has yet become 
 official. A few fanciers have been trying to improve the classification, and there is 
 already considerable agreement among them, although the relative order of the 
 classes may differ. The following classification for show purposes is presented with 
 the hope that it will help beginners interested in the different flower types and the 
 names applied. In time an official system of classification that is widely recognized 
 should be adopted. The following descriptions may be used to determine where any 
 particular variety should be placed for exhibition purposes. 
 
 I. Singles Section (table 1). 
 
 A. Standard Singles, Should have 
 from 1 to 5 rows of petals and an 
 open center or disk ; petals of moder- 
 ate breadth. 
 
 1. Small: not over 2 inches in diam- 
 eter. Examples: Anna, Jane Harte 
 (sport of Anna). 
 
 2. Intermediate: over 2 inches but 
 not over 4 inches in diameter. Ex- 
 amples: Mrs. Buckingham, Octo- 
 ber Pink, Red Daisy. 
 
 3. Large: over 4 inches. Examples: 
 Gretchen Piper and Valencia, 
 when well grown and disbudded. 
 
 B. Broad-pet cr/ed Singles. Petals 
 normally very broad, as in some 
 
 dahlias. Examples: Buttercup, Car- 
 men, Golden Pride, Paloma, Sensa- 
 tion. (Note: Single spoon and match- 
 stick types are listed under Spoon 
 Chrysanthemums. ) 
 
 II. Semidoubles Section. 
 
 Flowers with more than 5 rows of ray 
 petals and with disk showing. Some 
 chrysanthemum catalogs list single 
 varieties with several rows of petals (4 
 or 5 rows) as semidouble, but this term 
 really applies to the more markedly 
 doubled kind that retains an open 
 center. Few varieties fall within this 
 section, so there is little need to make 
 a further segregation as to diameter of 
 
 Left— intermediate single with two rows of petals; right— intermediate standard single with several 
 
 rows of petals. 
 
 A 
 

 Left— informal single, or daisy type, with one row of petals; right— Pink Exquisite, with its interesting, 
 
 twisted center. 
 
 the flowers. Example: The Chief and 
 Melba. Some semidouble varieties may 
 have quilled petals with semispoon 
 tips, as Laurinda Early. 
 
 III. Anemone Section (table 5). 
 
 The flowers resemble singles with 1 to 
 5 rows of ray petals, but the central 
 florets are raised to form a cushion. 
 This cushion may be relatively small as 
 in Frieda and The Titan or it may be 
 
 broad and high as in Estrelita and Sin- 
 cerity. 
 A. Regular Anemone. Ray petals 
 
 evenly spaced and of about equal 
 
 length. 
 
 1. Small Regular Anemone: not over 
 2 inches in diameter. Examples: 
 Gypsy, Izola, Rhapsody, Burning 
 Ember, Little Princess, Lavender 
 Mist. 
 
 2. Intermediate Regular Anemone: 
 
 Left— one form of anemone type with large cushions; right— a group of anemone-type blooms with 
 
 cushion centers. 
 
Left— the small pompon button type is well illustrated by Nuggets; right— an example of inter- 
 mediate pompon type. 
 
 over 2 inches but under 4 inches 
 
 in diameter. Examples: Little 
 
 America, Garza Supreme, Shasta, 
 
 Smiths Innocence. 
 
 3. Large Regular Anemone : 4 inches 
 
 or more in diameter. Examples: 
 
 Frieda, Norma, Pink Supreme, 
 
 White Supreme. 
 
 B. Irregular Anemone. Ray petals 
 
 long and irregular in length, usually 
 
 pointed, may be twisted ; blooms usu- 
 
 ally over 4 inches in diameter. Ex- 
 amples: Tuxedo (pink), Bronze 
 Tuxedo, Yellow Tuxedo. (Note: 
 Anemone spoon types are listed un- 
 der Spoon Chrysanthemums.) 
 
 IV. Pompon and Decorative Section 
 
 (table 6). 
 
 The flowers in this section are rarely 
 over 4 inches in diameter, and many 
 are much smaller. There is no disk 
 
 Left— the spider type has petals with hooked tips; right— the matchstick type has tubular petals 
 
 with small spoon tips. 
 
showing when the flowers are fully 
 open. The strap-shaped petals are 
 found in many rows. Any disk flowers 
 present are hidden by these petals. 
 
 A. Standard Pompons. Blooms 
 range in size from small buttons to 
 more than 2% inches in diameter, 
 but are rarely over 4 inches. The 
 flowers are usually globular in shape 
 or flattened in the small button type. 
 The petals are usually straight. (See 
 table 6.) 
 
 1. Small Pompons (includes But- 
 ton) : less than 1% inches in diam- 
 eter. Examples: Baby, Irene, Iso- 
 bel, Jewell, Nuggets, Pinocchio. 
 
 2. Intermediate Pompons: at least 
 1% inches but less than 2% inches 
 in diameter. Examples: Captain 
 Cook, Cassandra, Mrs. Bulkeley. 
 
 3. Large Pompons : over 2% inches 
 in diameter. Examples : the several 
 color forms of Doty, Arcadia, 
 Goldsmith. 
 
 B. Decorative or Reflexed Pom- 
 pons. These resemble the larger 
 standard pompons, except that the 
 petals are reflexed; occasionally, 
 however, some of the central petals 
 may be incurved for a time. Petals 
 usually shorter and narrower than in 
 Decoratives listed below. 
 
 1. Small Reflexed Pompons: under 
 1% inches in diameter. Examples: 
 Bright Eyes, Mary Pickf ord. 
 
 2. Intermediate Reflexed Pompons : 
 at least 1% inches but less than 
 2% inches in diameter. Examples : 
 Clara Jameson, Yellow Dot. 
 
 3. Large Reflexed Pompons: over 
 2% inches in diameter. Example : 
 Navaho. 
 
 C. Decoratives. Blooms more than 
 1% and less than 4 inches in diam- 
 eter. Petals somewhat longer and 
 narrower than in the reflexed pom- 
 pons, and may be pointed; either 
 regularly or irregularly reflexed; 
 inner petals sometimes incurved for 
 a time. Many of the hardy garden 
 
 Commercial spider; petals are usually tubular 
 for part of length; good substance. 
 
 varieties fall within this class, and 
 may be divided into: (1) Small, (2) 
 Intermediate, and (3) Large. Ex- 
 amples : Avalanche, Lavender Lady, 
 Natoma. 
 
 V. Spoon and Matchstick Section 
 
 (table 7). 
 
 Usually singles with 1 to 5 rows of ray 
 petals, tubular for part of their length 
 and flared out into a spoon at the tip. 
 A few anemone spoon varieties are 
 listed, and these have a crested center. 
 Semidouble and double spoon types 
 are grown occasionally. 
 A. Standard Spoon. Ray petals tubu- 
 lar for about half their length, and 
 tips flared out into a large spoon. 
 Should not have more than 5 rows 
 of ray petals. The disk is conspicu- 
 ous, with short, even florets. 
 
 1. Small Standard Spoon: not over 
 
 2 inches in diameter. Example: 
 Dr. Carl Norheim (developed by 
 Oakland Park Department) . 
 
 2. Intermediate Standard Spoon : 
 more than 2 inches but less than 
 
 3 inches in diameter. Examples: 
 Edward T. Foulkes and Com- 
 mander Norman Miller. 
 
 [26] 
 
Left— the incurved commercial type (as shown also on cover); right— an incurved exhibition type. 
 
 3. Large Standard Spoon : over 3 
 inches in diameter. Examples: 
 Scintillation, Freda Leach. 
 
 B. Mat chstick or Semispoon Type. 
 
 About the same as the Single 
 Spoon, except that the ray petals are 
 tubular for well over half their 
 length, and the tips are slightly 
 flared into a small spoon. Some 
 growers place this type in with the 
 Single Spoon or Quilled Single, but 
 judges prefer the Single Spoon as 
 listed above when the two are 
 grouped together. Several varieties 
 may be listed as semispoon in form, 
 and some varieties (for instance, 
 Frolic, Jean Squire) may either be 
 listed here or placed in a separate 
 class. Novelties, such as Oriana, are 
 best segregated into odd or novelty 
 varieties. There may be some varia- 
 tion in the form of flowers on the 
 same plant. Examples: Matchsticks, 
 Pink Matchsticks, White Match- 
 . sticks, Robert Bacon, Snow Queen, 
 Yomei. 
 
 C. Anemone Spoon. Same as Single 
 Spoon, except for cushion center. 
 Examples: Otto Blum, Reverie. 
 
 VI. Quilled Section (table 8). 
 
 The flowers should be fully double with 
 no disk showing. The florets are long, 
 straight, tubular, or quilled, and often 
 radiate to make a spherical bloom. The 
 tips of the petals may be slightly spoon- 
 like or curved slightly, but should not 
 be coiled or hooked. May be subdi- 
 vided into Small, Intermediate, and 
 Large. Examples: Albert Witt, Bess 
 Witt, Copper Rocket, Miss Gena Har- 
 wood, Peggy Ann Hoover, Rayonnante. 
 (Note: This group is often listed with 
 the Spider Section, but the tips are not 
 curled as in true spider varieties.) 
 
 VII. Thread Section. 
 
 Petals are very slender and threadlike, 
 usually tubular and either straight or 
 slightly curved. The tips of the petals 
 should not be definitely coiled or 
 hooked. Example. Mignonette, White 
 Thread, and Zaza. These are much like 
 a miniature quilled variety, but the 
 petals may be more curled and twisted. 
 
 VIII. Spider Section (table 8) . 
 
 The blooms are usually large, fully or 
 partially double, often with tubular 
 
 [27] 
 
Left— a good example of an irregular incurved type; right— a typical reflexed type. Both of these 
 
 are commercial types. 
 
 petals, either reflexed or incurved and 
 sometimes twisted. The exhibition vari- 
 eties are usually tubular, and many 
 lack good substance, while the commer- 
 cial varieties may have thick, broad 
 petals of good substance, and are nor- 
 mally fully double; tips definitely 
 coiled or hooked and either open or 
 closed. 
 
 A. Exhibition Spiders. Includes the 
 many spider varieties with long, 
 slender petals; a great many do 
 not have good substance. A few are 
 semidouble (Jumbo, Pink Fantasy, 
 Sunspot, Wilhelmina) , but most are 
 fully double (Bunbu, Butterfly, 
 Emerald Isle, Lavender Beauty, 
 Punch Bowl, Kay Tashima, and Wai- 
 kiki). The size may be small, inter- 
 mediate, or large. 
 
 1. Small Exhibition Spider: small 
 tubes. Example: Silver Drops. 
 
 2. Intermediate Exhibition Spider: 
 medium tubes. Examples: Butter- 
 fly, San Marino, Snowy. 
 
 3. Large Exhibition Spider: large or 
 giant tubes. Examples: Jumbo, 
 Kay Tashima, Marsha, Oriental, 
 Silver Lace. 
 
 B. Commercial Spiders, Either flat 
 or tubular petals of good substance 
 and keeping quality, incurved or re- 
 flexed. Example: Mamoru. 
 
 IX. Feathered or Hairy Section. 
 
 The flowers are double with quilled 
 petals that are covered with small hairs 
 (ciliated). Formerly this class was 
 known as Ostrich Plume, and today the 
 class is best known by J. C. Taggart and 
 Yellow Taggarts. 
 
 X. Large Commercial and Exhibition 
 Section. 
 
 In general the flowers are large, espe- 
 cially in the exhibition varieties. There 
 is no clear distinction, however, be- 
 tween commercial and exhibition vari- 
 eties. Instead, it is better to segregate 
 the varieties acording to the form of 
 the flowers, and then indicate size 
 where size is important. 
 A. Regular Incurved. Petals are 
 broad, overlap regularly and smooth- 
 ly, and cover over the center of the 
 flower, giving each bloom a globular 
 shape. Many of the commercial vari- 
 eties of earlier days were in this 
 group. 
 
 1. Small Regular Incurved: blooms 
 not over 5 inches in diameter. Ex- 
 ample: Hilda Bergen. 
 
 2. Intermediate Regular Incurved: 
 blooms more than 5 inches but not 
 over 7 inches in diameter. Ex- 
 amples: Anaconda, Lillian Foltz. 
 
3. Large Regular Incurved : blooms 
 over 7 inches in diameter. Ex- 
 amples : Ambassador, Orchid 
 Queen, Sunnyslope Bronze. 
 
 B. Irregular Incurved. Petals are 
 twisted and irregularly incurved. 
 The blooms are globular in outline. 
 Here belong the Turners, Pocketts, 
 and many other varieties commonly 
 listed under Exhibition. 
 
 C. Regular Reflexed. Petals evenly 
 spaced and regularly reflexed and 
 
 overlapping. The blooms are globu- 
 lar in general outline. Sometimes 
 listed under Reflexed Commercial. 
 Examples: Garnet King, Harvard. 
 D. Irregular Reflexed. Petals are 
 broad and twisted and overlapping. 
 The blooms are usually very large, 
 as in Princess Teru. The size helps 
 place these varieties in Large Exhi- 
 bition in some listings : small, up to 
 7 inches in diameter; large, over 7 
 inches in diameter. 
 
 SUGGESTED READING LIST 
 
 Cumming, Alex, Jr. 
 
 1945. Hardy chrysanthemums. (Rev. ed.) 168 p. Doubleday and Company, Inc., New York. 
 Herrington, A. 
 
 1929. The chrysanthemum. 170 p. Orange Judd Publishing Company, New York. 
 Laurie, Alex 
 
 1930. Chrysanthemums under glass and outdoors. 110 p. A. T. De La Mare Company, Inc., New 
 York. 
 
 Laurie, Alex, and D. C. Kiplinger 
 
 1946. Garden and greenhouse chrysanthemums. 123 p. A. T. De La Mare Company, Inc., New 
 York. 
 
 1948. Commercial flower forcing. (5th ed.) 550 p. The Blakiston Company, Philadelphia. 
 Macself, A. J. 
 
 1939. Chrysanthemum growers treasury. 290 p. W. H. and L. Collingridge. Ltd., London. 
 Niwa, Teizo 
 
 1936. Chrysanthemums of Japan. 56 p. (80 colored plates.) G. E. Stechert, New York. 
 Portland Chrysanthemum Society 
 
 1946. Chrysanthemums: how to grow them out of doors. (Rev. ed.) 97 p. Portland Chrysanthe- 
 mum Society, 2905 N.E. 38th Ave., Portland, Oregon. 
 Post, Kenneth 
 
 1949. Florist crop production and marketing. 891 p. Orange Judd Publishing Company, New York. 
 Sanders, T. W. 
 
 1930. Chrysanthemums and how to grow them. 32 p. W. H. and L. Collingridge, Ltd., London. 
 Scott, E. L., and A. H. Scott 
 
 1950. Chrysanthemums for pleasure. (2d ed.) 320 p. The Scotts, 64 South Street, Bogota, New 
 Jersey. 
 
 Smith, Elmer D., and Alex Laurie 
 
 1928. Chrysanthemum breeding. 30 p. Michigan State College Special Bui. 186. (Out of print; 
 available at some public libraries.) 
 White, E. A. 
 
 1930. The chrysanthemum and its culture. 192 p. Orange Judd Publishing Company, New York. 
 
 I 
 
 TABLES OF VARIETIES 
 
 begin on next page 
 
 [29 
 
Table 1. SINGLE VARIETIES 
 
 Name 
 
 Characteristics 
 
 Remarks 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Color 
 
 Height 
 
 Blooms 
 outside 
 
 
 Alex Stribling 
 
 white when fully 
 open 
 
 med. 
 
 Oct. 
 
 15 
 
 good sturdy early single 
 of good size 
 
 Apple Blossom 
 
 light pink 
 
 med. 
 
 Nov. 
 
 1 
 
 many small flowers 
 
 Apricot Valencia 
 
 apricot bronze 
 
 tall 
 
 Nov. 
 
 15 
 
 sport of Valencia 
 
 Bittersweet 
 
 bittersweet red 
 
 med. 
 
 Nov. 
 
 1 
 
 3 to 4 rows of stiff petals 
 
 Blaze 
 
 deep cardinal red 
 
 tall 
 
 Dec. 
 
 10 
 
 easy to grow; medium 
 
 Brocade 
 
 cameo pink 
 
 med. 
 
 Nov. 
 
 15 
 
 size 
 medium size 
 
 Bronze Buckingham 
 
 apricot bronze 
 
 med. 
 
 Nov. 
 
 5 
 
 popular ; medium size 
 
 Bronze Daisy 
 
 light bronze 
 
 med. 
 
 Nov. 
 
 1 
 
 medium size 
 
 Bronze Godfrey 
 
 bronze 
 
 med. 
 
 Nov. 
 
 25 
 
 sport of Mrs. Godfrey 
 
 Burgundy Red 
 
 bright red 
 
 med. 
 
 Oct. 
 
 25 
 
 large single; keeps well 
 
 California Red Daisy 
 
 brilliant red 
 
 med. 
 
 Oct. 
 
 5 
 
 medium size 
 
 Carnelia 
 
 bittersweet red 
 
 med. 
 
 Nov. 
 
 5 
 
 stiff stems 
 
 Charlotte Waite 
 
 rose pink, yellow 
 center 
 
 short 
 
 Nov. 
 
 25 
 
 round, dwarf plant 
 
 Crimson Carnelia 
 
 intense crimson 
 
 med. 
 
 Nov. 
 
 1 
 
 holds color well ; sport of 
 Carnelia 
 
 Crimson Monarch 
 
 bright crimson 
 
 med. 
 
 Nov. 
 
 15 
 
 very large, with small 
 center 
 
 Dark Pink Valencia 
 
 deep orchid pink 
 
 tall 
 
 Nov. 
 
 25 
 
 medium size 
 
 Debutante 
 
 deep pink 
 
 tall 
 
 Nov. 
 
 30 
 
 one of the best 
 
 Derrick Norman 
 
 pink 
 
 tall 
 
 Oct. 
 
 25 
 
 large, vigorous plant 
 
 Lehmer 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Europa 
 
 cardinal red 
 
 short 
 
 Nov. 
 
 10 
 
 strong stem ; good spray 
 
 Evelyne Lethbridge 
 
 orange with crimson 
 flush 
 
 tall 
 
 Nov. 
 
 10 
 
 medium size, fine for 
 cutting 
 
 Fiesta 
 
 terra cotta reddish 
 bronze 
 
 tall 
 
 Nov. 
 
 20 
 
 large and full 
 
 Gladys Duckham 
 
 white 
 
 med. 
 
 Dec. 
 
 15 
 
 large ; good keeper 
 
 Golden Jane 
 
 clear yellow 
 
 med. 
 
 Nov. 
 
 20 
 
 
 Golden Mensa 
 
 golden yellow 
 
 med. 
 
 Nov. 
 
 1 
 
 shaped like Shasta daisy ; 
 sport of Mensa 
 
 Golden Sun 
 
 yellow 
 
 tall 
 
 Nov. 
 
 10 
 
 good keeper 
 
 Gretchen Piper 
 
 brilliant yellow 
 
 med. 
 
 Oct. 
 
 15 
 
 large 
 
 Helen Hubbard 
 
 red like Harvard 
 
 tall 
 
 Nov. 
 
 15 
 
 good keeper 
 
 H. Marie Totty 
 
 crimson 
 
 tall 
 
 Nov. 
 
 10 
 
 large ; late 
 
 Ida Skiff 
 
 amber bronze 
 
 med. 
 
 Oct. 
 
 25 
 
 excellent color ; good cut 
 flower 
 
 Jane 
 
 buff bronze 
 
 tall 
 
 Nov. 
 
 25 
 
 large; sport of Valencia 
 
 Jean 
 
 pure white 
 
 med. 
 
 Nov. 
 
 1 
 
 large ; fine for exhibition 
 
 Jennifer 
 
 bright yellow 
 
 tall 
 
 Nov. 
 
 15 
 
 sturdy 
 
 Kramers Late Peach 
 
 light peach 
 
 med. 
 
 Dec. 
 
 15 
 
 good free-blooming late 
 variety 
 
 Lodestar 
 
 golden yellow 
 
 med. 
 
 Nov. 
 
 25 
 
 medium size 
 
 Los Angeles 
 
 salmon pink 
 
 tall 
 
 Oct. 
 
 5 
 
 prolific bloomer 
 
 
 [30] 
 
 Continued next page 
 
Table 1. SINGLE VARIETIES (continued) 
 
 Name 
 
 Characteristics 
 
 Remarks 
 
 
 
 
 
 Color 
 
 Height 
 
 Blooms 
 outside 
 
 
 Louise Mayo 
 
 gold and lavender 
 
 tall 
 
 Nov. 1 
 
 large with stiff stem 
 
 Mabel Seymour 
 
 white, greenish 
 shading 
 
 med. 
 
 Nov. 1 
 
 large with large sprays 
 
 Masons Bronze 
 
 burnt orange 
 
 med. 
 
 Nov. 10 
 
 broad petals 
 
 Masons Red 
 
 bronzy red 
 
 med. 
 
 Nov. 10 
 
 sport of Masons Bronze 
 
 Melba 
 
 orange bronze 
 
 med. 
 
 Nov. 5 
 
 semidouble 
 
 Mensa 
 
 pure white 
 
 med. 
 
 Nov. 25 
 
 certificate by C.S.A. ; 
 large ; popular 
 
 Minnesota 
 
 brilliant red 
 
 med. 
 
 Nov. 1 
 
 medium size ; good 
 sprays 
 
 Mori Apricot 
 
 deep apricot 
 
 med. 
 
 Oct. 25 
 
 large, flat flower 
 
 Mrs. McKinney 
 
 bright buttercup 
 yellow 
 
 tall 
 
 Nov. 1 
 
 large single 
 
 Mrs. Godfrey 
 
 light pink 
 
 med. 
 
 Nov. 25 
 
 good keeper; popular, 
 strong grower 
 
 Mrs. Buckingham 
 
 pink 
 
 med. 
 
 Nov. 5 
 
 popular commercial 
 
 Nancy Copeland 
 
 spectrum red 
 
 med. 
 
 Sept. 25 
 
 med. size; early red 
 
 North Star 
 
 white 
 
 med. 
 
 Sept. 25 
 
 
 October Bronze 
 
 light bronze 
 
 med. 
 
 Oct. 25 
 
 intermediate single 
 
 October Pink 
 
 light lavender 
 
 med. 
 
 Oct. 25 
 
 good cut flower 
 
 Patricia Ann 
 
 salmon pink 
 
 med. 
 
 Oct. 25 
 
 new ; very productive 
 
 Pink Louise Mayo 
 
 orchid pink 
 
 med. 
 
 Nov. 10 
 
 strong, erect, large 
 
 Pink Mensa 
 
 bright pink 
 
 med. 
 
 Nov. 20 
 
 seedling of Mensa 
 
 Pink Skiff 
 
 pink 
 
 med. 
 
 Nov. 1 
 
 seedling of Ida Skiff 
 
 Radiant 
 
 brilliant red 
 
 med. 
 
 Nov. 5 
 
 very prolific; suitable 
 for cascade 
 
 R. Collins 
 
 bronze 
 
 tall 
 
 Nov. 15 
 
 large ; good keeper 
 
 Red Daisy 
 
 deep red 
 
 med. 
 
 Nov. 5 
 
 intermediate single 
 
 Red Melba 
 
 light red 
 
 med. 
 
 Nov. 5 
 
 large ; sport of Melba 
 
 Red Valencia 
 
 soft Brazil red 
 
 med. 
 
 Nov. 20 
 
 large single 
 
 Rosalind 
 
 rose pink 
 
 tall 
 
 Dec. 20 
 
 good stems 
 
 Rose Jewell 
 
 bright rose, white 
 central zone 
 
 short 
 
 Nov. 5 
 
 good low potted plant 
 
 Santa Anita 
 
 bronze 
 
 med. 
 
 Oct. 25 
 
 as good as Ida Skiff 
 
 Sarong 
 
 crimson scarlet 
 
 med. 
 
 Dec. 15 
 
 medium-sized flowers 
 
 Silver Moon 
 
 creamy white 
 
 med. 
 
 Sept. 15 
 
 medium-sized flowers 
 
 Sunkist 
 
 golden yellow 
 
 med. 
 
 Dec. 20 
 
 very late 
 
 Sylvannia 
 
 orange bronze 
 
 med. 
 
 Nov. 10 
 
 intermediate single 
 
 Tagoya 
 
 bright red 
 
 short 
 
 Nov. 1 
 
 good pot plant; semi- 
 double 
 
 Vagabond 
 
 apricot buff 
 
 med. 
 
 Nov. 15 
 
 small center ; ships well 
 
 Valencia 
 
 pink flushed gold 
 
 med. 
 
 Nov. 20 
 
 one of the best 
 
 White Fragrance 
 
 white 
 
 tall 
 
 Oct. 25 
 
 similar to Mensa, but 
 taller 
 
 Yellow Daisy 
 
 deep lemon yellow 
 
 med. 
 
 Nov. 1 
 
 intermediate single 
 
 Yellow Frieda 
 
 lemon yellow 
 
 med. 
 
 Nov. 15 
 
 large single 
 
 Yukon 
 
 white 
 
 tall 
 
 Dec. 1 
 
 medium-sized flowers, 
 late 
 
 

 Table 2. HARDY VARIETIES 
 
 
 (Includes some cushions, Northland daisies, and Koreans) 
 
 Name 
 
 Characteristics 
 
 Remarks 
 
 
 
 
 
 Color 
 
 Height 
 
 Blooms 
 outside 
 
 
 Allegro 
 
 white 
 
 med. 
 
 Oct. 1 
 
 large flowers if disbudded 
 
 Amelia 
 
 shades of pink 
 
 short 
 
 early 
 
 original cushion mum 
 
 Apricot Glow 
 
 apricot bronze 
 
 short 
 
 late 
 summer 
 
 2 to 23^2 inches across 
 
 Astrid 
 
 soft pink 
 
 short 
 
 Oct. 1 
 
 a Northland daisy 
 
 Avalanche 
 
 white 
 
 med. 
 
 Sept. 10 
 
 fine intermediate deco- 
 rative 
 
 Aviator 
 
 coppery red 
 
 med. 
 
 Oct. 10 
 
 intermediate decorative 
 
 Bokhara 
 
 carmine and crimson 
 
 med. 
 
 Oct. 10 
 
 disease-resistant double 
 
 Burgundy 
 
 Burgundy red 
 
 tall 
 
 Oct. 10 
 
 Korean intermediate 
 decorative 
 
 Burma 
 
 bronze, copper, and 
 pink 
 
 med. 
 
 Oct. 5 
 
 well-branched sprays 
 
 Carnival 
 
 bronze, red, and 
 golden bronze 
 
 med. 
 
 Oct. 10 
 
 large productive double 
 
 Chippewa 
 
 aster purple, silvery 
 mauve reverse 
 
 med. 
 
 Sept. 25 
 
 large, slightly incurved 
 
 Coral Sea 
 
 coral cream 
 
 short 
 
 Oct. 1 
 
 full, 2 inches ; good potted 
 plant 
 
 Cydonia 
 
 orange, red overcast 
 
 tall 
 
 Oct. 5 
 
 2 inches ; glowing color ; 
 vigorous 
 
 Golden Cushion 
 
 golden yellow 
 
 dwarf 
 
 Oct. 5 
 
 stocky cushion 
 
 Ideal Pink 
 
 soft orchid 
 
 med. 
 
 Oct. 15 
 
 good decorative 
 
 Indian Summer 
 
 orange bronze 
 
 med. 
 
 Oct. 15 
 
 informal ; stiff stems 
 
 Jean Treadway 
 
 soft pink 
 
 med. 
 
 Oct. 10 
 
 fine for garden cutting 
 
 Jewell 
 
 lavender pink 
 
 short 
 
 Oct. 5 
 
 large bottom 
 
 Karl A. Reiche 
 
 old rose and strawberry 
 
 red 
 light lavender 
 
 med. 
 
 Sept. 25 
 
 upright ; good grower 
 
 Lavender Lady 
 
 med. 
 
 Oct. 5 
 
 intermediate decorative ; 
 
 
 
 
 
 excellent 
 
 Magnolia 
 
 pink tinted creamy 
 white 
 
 med. 
 
 Sept. 15 
 
 stocky, productive 
 
 Mandalay 
 
 orange bronze 
 
 med. 
 
 Sept. 20 
 
 good stems, many flowers 
 
 Maroon n' Gold 
 
 mahogany shaded ma- 
 roon, gold reverse 
 
 short 
 
 Aug. 25 
 
 large flowers, good stems 
 
 Mellow Glow 
 
 orange, buff, pink, and 
 bronze 
 
 med. 
 
 Oct. 5 
 
 good cut flowers 
 
 New Philadelphia 
 
 purplish red 
 
 tall 
 
 Oct. 15 
 
 decorative pompon, dis- 
 tinctive 
 
 Philadelphia 
 
 orchid lavender 
 
 tall 
 
 Oct. 15 
 
 decorative pompon pleas- 
 ing color 
 
 Pink Radiance 
 
 luminous pink 
 
 med. 
 
 Sept. 25 
 
 productive, decorative 
 pompon 
 
 
 Continued next page 
 
 [32] 
 
Table 2. HARDY VARIETIES (continued) 
 
 Name 
 
 Characteristics 
 
 Remarks 
 
 
 
 
 
 Color 
 
 Height 
 
 Blooms 
 outside 
 
 
 Pomponette 
 
 bright yellow 
 
 short 
 
 Oct. 1 
 
 good potted plant 
 
 Polar Ice 
 
 white 
 
 short 
 
 Oct. 1 
 
 bushy decorative 
 
 Rapture 
 
 orange and carmine 
 
 med. 
 
 Oct. 15 
 
 good garden plant 
 
 Red Ridinghood 
 
 bright red 
 
 med. 
 
 Oct. 1 
 
 blazing color, fine deco- 
 rative 
 
 Ruby Pompon 
 
 ruby crimson 
 
 med. 
 
 Oct. 5 
 
 one of the best, fine sprays 
 
 Sequoia 
 
 amber 
 
 med. 
 
 Oct. 10 
 
 outstanding variety 
 
 Tiffany Rose 
 
 deep rose with cream 
 undertone 
 
 short 
 
 Oct. 10 
 
 free-flowering bushy plant 
 
 Twilight 
 
 fuchsia purple, silver 
 reverse 
 
 med. 
 
 Oct. 5 
 
 attractive decorative 
 
 White Wonder 
 
 white 
 
 tall 
 
 Oct. 1 
 
 free-flowering pompon 
 
 Yellow Avalanche 
 
 golden yellow 
 
 med. 
 
 Sept. 25 
 
 good sprays 
 
 Yellow Jewell 
 
 yellow with bronze 
 undertone 
 
 short 
 
 Oct. 5 
 
 good pompon 
 
 
 Table 3. ODD VARIETIES AND INTERESTING FORMS 
 (Many spider and spoon varieties could be included) 
 
 Name 
 
 Color 
 
 Form 
 
 Height 
 
 Blooms 
 outside 
 
 California Firebird 
 
 bronze and gold 
 
 decorative with form like 
 small cactus dahlia 
 
 tall 
 
 Nov. 25 
 
 Emerald Isle 
 
 light green at center 
 
 threadlike spider 
 
 med. 
 
 Nov. 1 
 
 Ensenada 
 
 Indian red with yel- 
 lowish reverse 
 
 like small cactus dahlia 
 
 med. 
 
 Nov. 1 
 
 Fantasia 
 
 white 
 
 odd quilled petals, tips re- 
 flexed spoons 
 
 tall 
 
 Nov. 5 
 
 J. C. Taggarts 
 
 soft bronze 
 
 feathered or hairy petals 
 
 tall 
 
 Nov. 1 
 
 Kegon No Taki 
 
 bright yellow 
 
 lowerpetals reflexed, others 
 incurved, twisted 
 
 tall 
 
 Nov. 1 
 
 Lavender Taggarts 
 
 lavender, shading 
 pink at center 
 
 feathered or hairy petals 
 
 tall 
 
 Nov. 1 
 
 Louis Fried 
 
 silver gray quills, am- 
 aranth red spoons 
 
 spoonlike variety 
 
 med. 
 
 Nov. 10 
 
 Mabel Seymour 
 
 white with greenish 
 shading 
 
 large single 
 
 med. 
 
 Nov. 1 
 
 Nightingale 
 
 white with greenish 
 center 
 
 oddly colored spider type 
 
 med. 
 
 Nov. 1 
 
 Pink Exquisite (see 
 
 pleasing pink 
 
 whirled central petals 
 
 med. 
 
 Nov. 1 
 
 illus. p. 24) 
 
 
 
 
 
 Revere 
 
 orchid pink 
 
 a novelty spoon 
 
 med. 
 
 Nov. 1 
 
 Sunspot 
 
 white 
 
 tubular petals, hooked and 
 barbed tips 
 
 tall 
 
 Nov. 1 
 
 Yellow Taggarts 
 
 yellow 
 
 feathery or hairy petals 
 
 tall 
 
 Nov. 1 
 
Table 4. SOME VARIETIES FOR TRAINING AS CASCADES 
 
 
 
 
 
 Blooms 
 
 
 Name 
 
 Type 
 
 Color 
 
 Flower 
 Size 
 
 outside 
 (most 
 
 Remarks 
 
 
 single or 
 
 
 2 inches 
 
 are late) 
 
 
 Anna 
 
 white with yel- 
 
 Oct. 
 
 20 
 
 popular 
 
 
 daisy 
 
 low center 
 
 
 
 
 
 Bettina 
 
 single 
 
 dark pink 
 
 13^2 inches 
 
 
 
 
 Bijo 
 
 single 
 
 light pink 
 
 small 
 
 Oct. 
 
 20 
 
 
 Breaking Dawn 
 
 anemone 
 
 light pink 
 
 \Yi inches 
 
 
 
 spoon tips 
 
 Brickette 
 
 single 
 
 bright red 
 
 very small 
 
 
 
 
 Bridal Veil 
 
 single 
 
 snowy white 
 
 to 3 inches 
 
 Oct. 
 
 1 
 
 lasts well 
 
 Burning Ember 
 
 anemone 
 
 bright red rays, 
 yellow cushion 
 
 1 inch 
 
 
 
 small flowers 
 
 Butterfly 
 
 spider 
 
 yellow 
 
 4 inches up 
 
 Oct. 
 
 25 
 
 good yellow 
 
 Cherry Rose 
 
 single 
 
 rose pink 
 
 small 
 
 Oct. 
 
 10 
 
 requires little 
 pinching 
 
 Chinook 
 
 single 
 
 salmon pink 
 
 2 inches 
 
 
 
 
 Firefall 
 
 single 
 
 garnet red, yel- 
 low center 
 
 2 inches 
 
 Oct. 
 
 30 
 
 free bloomer 
 
 Hallowe'en 
 
 anemone 
 
 bronze rays, 
 deeper bronze 
 cushion 
 
 small 
 
 Oct. 
 on 
 
 15 
 
 very branching 
 
 Jane Harte 
 
 single 
 
 yellow 
 
 2 inches 
 
 Oct. 
 
 20 
 
 sport of Anna 
 
 Kinro 
 
 anemone 
 
 bright yellow 
 
 small 
 
 Nov. 
 
 1 
 
 
 Lavender Mist 
 
 anemone 
 
 lavender pink 
 
 small 
 
 Nov. 
 
 1 
 
 
 Lighthouse 
 
 single 
 
 bronzy red 
 
 medium 
 
 
 
 medium size 
 
 Little Princess 
 
 anemone 
 
 golden yellow 
 
 very small 
 
 
 
 tiny 
 
 Moonlight 
 
 single 
 
 yellow 
 
 medium 
 
 
 
 
 New Gold 
 
 anemone 
 
 brilliant yellow 
 
 medium 
 
 Nov. 
 
 1 
 
 
 Niagara Falls 
 
 single 
 
 creamy white 
 
 2 inches 
 
 Oct. 
 
 20 
 
 long stems 
 
 Nuggets (see illus. 
 
 pompon 
 
 rich golden 
 
 1 inch 
 
 Oct. 
 
 25 
 
 for small cas- 
 
 p. 11) 
 
 (button) 
 
 yellow 
 
 
 
 
 cade 
 
 Orchid Beauty 
 
 anemone 
 
 orch. pink rays, 
 yellow cush. 
 
 medium 
 
 Nov. 
 
 15 
 
 for small cas- 
 cade 
 
 Princess 
 
 single 
 
 light lavender 
 
 medium 
 
 
 
 
 Purple Queen 
 
 anemone 
 
 deep purple 
 
 2% inches 
 
 Nov. 
 
 1 
 
 vigorous 
 
 Radiant 
 
 single 
 
 bright red 
 
 medium 
 
 Nov. 
 
 5 
 
 medium size 
 
 Rhapsody 
 
 anemone 
 
 lavender 
 
 1 inch 
 
 
 
 short ray petals 
 
 Royalty 
 
 anemone 
 
 deep lavender 
 pink 
 
 2 inches 
 
 Nov. 
 
 1 
 
 short flat ray 
 petals 
 
 The Real McKay 
 
 single 
 
 pink 
 
 2 inches 
 
 Oct. 
 
 15 
 
 prolific, good 
 habit 
 
 Tuxedo 
 
 anemone 
 
 light pink 
 
 medium to 
 large 
 
 Nov. 
 
 1 
 
 good small 
 cascade 
 
 Violet Ray 
 
 anemone 
 
 dark lavender 
 
 medium 
 
 
 
 quilled florets 
 
 Yamabuki 
 
 anemone 
 
 yellow 
 
 1^2 inches 
 
 
 
 outstanding 
 
 
 [34] 
 
Table 5. ANEMONE VARIETIES 
 
 Name 
 
 Characteristics 
 
 Remarks 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Color 
 
 Height 
 
 Blooms 
 outside 
 
 
 Small Flowers 
 
 Bronze Izola 
 
 reddish bronze 
 
 med. 
 
 Nov. 
 
 1 
 
 sport of Izola 
 
 Golden Izola 
 
 bright golden 
 
 med. 
 
 Nov. 
 
 1 
 
 sport of Izola 
 
 Gypsy 
 
 light reddish bronze 
 
 med. 
 
 Nov. 
 
 15 
 
 
 Izola 
 
 amaranth 
 
 med. 
 
 Nov. 
 
 1 
 
 
 Lavender Mist 
 
 lavender pink 
 
 dwarf 
 
 Nov. 
 
 1 
 
 used some as cascade 
 
 Pink Izola 
 
 lavender 
 
 med. 
 
 Nov. 
 
 1 
 
 
 Purple Daisy 
 
 aster purple 
 
 tall 
 
 Nov. 
 
 10 
 
 heavy producer 
 
 Red Izola 
 
 deep red 
 
 med. 
 
 Nov. 
 
 1 
 
 
 White Izola 
 
 white 
 
 med. 
 
 Nov. 
 
 1 
 
 sport of Izola 
 
 Yolanda 
 
 light orange bronze 
 
 med. 
 
 Nov. 
 
 25 
 
 holds color well 
 
 Intermediate Flowers 
 
 Blanche 
 
 white 
 
 med. 
 
 Nov. 
 
 5 
 
 
 Garza Supreme 
 
 white 
 
 med. 
 
 Dec. 
 
 15 
 
 later than Garza 
 
 Gerald Beaumont 
 
 pink with orange 
 cushion 
 
 med. 
 
 Nov. 
 
 20 
 
 good color 
 
 Halloween 
 
 coppery bronze 
 
 med. 
 
 Nov. 
 
 20 
 
 flowers 3 inches across 
 
 Little America 
 
 white 
 
 med. 
 
 Nov. 
 
 5 
 
 good keeper 
 
 Nevada 
 
 white 
 
 med. 
 
 Nov. 
 
 20 
 
 green cushion 
 
 Orchid Beauty 
 
 orchid 
 
 med. 
 
 Nov. 
 
 15 
 
 good pot plant 
 
 Red Rolinda 
 
 reddish brown 
 
 tall 
 
 Nov. 
 
 25 
 
 very prolific 
 
 Rolinda 
 
 bronze 
 
 tall 
 
 Nov. 
 
 25 
 
 very prolific 
 
 Rose Madder 
 
 rose pink 
 
 med. 
 
 Nov. 
 
 15 
 
 prominent cushion 
 
 Shasta 
 
 white 
 
 med. 
 
 Nov. 
 
 5 
 
 
 Sincerity 
 
 white 
 
 med. 
 
 Oct. 
 
 25 
 
 high rounded cushion 
 
 Smiths Innocence 
 
 white 
 
 tall 
 
 Nov. 
 
 5 
 
 petals slightly reflexed 
 
 Sunray 
 
 light lemon yellow 
 
 med. 
 
 Nov. 
 
 15 
 
 small to medium flowers 
 
 White Anemone 
 
 white 
 
 tall 
 
 Nov. 
 
 5 
 
 
 Yellow Garza Supreme 
 
 light lemon yellow 
 
 med. 
 
 Dec. 
 
 15 
 
 sport of Garza Supreme 
 
 Yellow Rolinda 
 
 light buff yellow 
 
 med. 
 
 Nov. 
 
 25 
 
 sport of Rolinda 
 
 Yellow Sincerity 
 
 yellow 
 
 med. 
 
 Oct. 
 
 25 
 
 sport of Sincerity 
 
 Large Flowers (most suitable for disbudding) 
 
 Admiration 
 
 deep orchid pink 
 
 med. 
 
 Oct. 
 
 15 
 
 sturdy grower; orange 
 cushion 
 
 Antigo 
 
 deep rose 
 
 med. 
 
 Nov. 
 
 1 
 
 ray petals and cushion 
 same color 
 
 Beautiful Lady 
 
 bright pink 
 
 short 
 
 Nov. 
 
 20 
 
 creamy cushion 
 
 Bob White 
 
 white 
 
 med. 
 
 Nov. 
 
 5 
 
 bright golden cushion 
 
 Bronze Norma 
 
 golden bronze 
 
 tall 
 
 Dec. 
 
 1 
 
 sport of Norma 
 
 Bronze Tuxedo 
 
 apricot bronze 
 
 tall 
 
 Nov. 
 
 1 
 
 sport of Tuxedo 
 
 Buff Queen 
 
 golden bronze 
 
 tall 
 
 Nov. 
 
 1 
 
 one of the older varieties 
 
 Captivation 
 
 mahogany red 
 
 med. 
 
 Nov. 
 
 10 
 
 cushion reddish bronze 
 
 Catherine 
 
 lavender pink 
 
 med. 
 
 Nov. 
 
 10 
 
 holds color well 
 
 
 Continued next page 
 
Table 5. ANEMONE VARIETIES (continued) 
 
 Name 
 
 Characteristics 
 
 Remarks 
 
 
 
 
 
 Color 
 
 Height 
 
 Blooms 
 outside 
 
 
 
 Large Flowers- 
 
 -Continued 
 
 China Rose 
 
 blood red 
 
 short 
 
 Nov. 1 
 
 large cushion 
 
 Citrus Queen 
 
 lemon yellow 
 
 med. 
 
 Dec. 1 
 
 orange disk 
 
 Coral Blaze 
 
 deep orange bronze 
 
 short 
 
 Nov. 25 
 
 good keeper 
 
 Cora Scoville 
 
 bright bronze 
 
 med. 
 
 Nov. 5 
 
 flat cushion 
 
 Dark Pink Norma 
 
 deep lavender 
 
 tall 
 
 Nov. 18 
 
 habit like Norma 
 
 Doris Louise 
 
 deep rose 
 
 med. 
 
 Oct. 15 
 
 sport of Frieda 
 
 Enchantress 
 
 deep pink 
 
 med. 
 
 Dec. 5 
 
 good deep pink 
 
 Estrelita 
 
 buff bronze 
 
 med. 
 
 Nov. 15 
 
 large flat disk 
 
 Frances Schoen Park 
 
 pure white 
 
 med. 
 
 Nov. 10 
 
 good exhibition variety 
 
 Frieda 
 
 orchid pink 
 
 tall 
 
 Oct. 5 
 
 small cushion 
 
 Gleam 
 
 deep lemon yellow 
 
 med. 
 
 Dec. 5 
 
 a newer variety 
 
 Graf Von Avon 
 
 white with pink tinge 
 
 tall 
 
 Nov. 10 
 
 available in Southern 
 California 
 
 Helios 
 
 deep golden yellow 
 
 med. 
 
 Nov. 10 
 
 one of the older varieties 
 
 Irene Hayes 
 
 white 
 
 med. 
 
 Nov. 15 
 
 high cushion 
 
 Jeanette 
 
 bronze 
 
 med. 
 
 Nov. 5 
 
 high cushion 
 
 Long Island Beauty 
 
 white to light pink, 
 yellow cushion 
 
 tall 
 
 Nov. 20 
 
 vigorous; older flowers 
 suffused pink 
 
 Loucella 
 
 bronzy orange 
 
 short 
 
 Nov. 5 
 
 
 Marietta 
 
 soft pink 
 
 med. 
 
 Oct. 20 
 
 
 Maritza 
 
 bright yellow 
 
 tall 
 
 Nov. 25 
 
 semi-incurved 
 
 Matador 
 
 red 
 
 tall 
 
 Dec. 15 
 
 good disbudded 
 
 Mrs. Charles Wylie 
 
 light bronze 
 
 med. 
 
 Nov. 5 
 
 high cushion 
 
 Mrs. John Shields 
 
 sulfur yellow 
 
 med. 
 
 Oct. 30 
 
 dark lemon cushion 
 
 Mrs. J. S. Roberts 
 
 crimson mauve and 
 violet 
 
 med. 
 
 Nov. 10 
 
 long disk florets 
 
 Norma 
 
 delicate pink 
 
 tall 
 
 Dec. 1 
 
 bronzy yellow cushion 
 
 Peter Pearson 
 
 light pink 
 
 med. 
 
 Dec. 1 
 
 high yellow cushion 
 
 Pink Supreme 
 
 pale pink 
 
 tall 
 
 Dec. 15 
 
 yellow cushion 
 
 Red Graf Von Oriola 
 
 bright crimson 
 
 tall 
 
 Nov. 1 
 
 sport of Graf Von Oriola 
 
 Spotlight 
 
 crimson 
 
 tall 
 
 Nov. 5 
 
 yellow cushion 
 
 Sunshine 
 
 golden yellow 
 
 tall 
 
 Nov. 15 
 
 yellow throughout 
 
 Susanne Miller 
 
 buff yellow 
 
 tall 
 
 Nov. 25 
 
 sport of Norma 
 
 Swan 
 
 white 
 
 tall 
 
 Dec. 10 
 
 fine bloom 
 
 The Titan 
 
 scarlet crimson 
 
 tall 
 
 Nov. 5 
 
 stiff stems 
 
 Topknot 
 
 bright pink 
 
 tall 
 
 Nov. 1 
 
 high white cushion 
 
 Triumph 
 
 deep canary yellow 
 
 med. 
 
 Nov. 1 
 
 reflex 
 
 Tronesta 
 
 bright pink 
 
 med. 
 
 Oct. 15 
 
 yellow cushion 
 
 Tuxedo 
 
 light pink 
 
 tall 
 
 Nov. 1 
 
 one of the best 
 
 Verona 
 
 buff 
 
 med. 
 
 Oct. 20 
 
 full cushion 
 
 White Frieda 
 
 white 
 
 tall 
 
 Oct. 15 
 
 habit of Frieda 
 
 White Norma 
 
 white 
 
 tall 
 
 Dec. 1 
 
 sport of Norma 
 
 White Supreme 
 
 white 
 
 med. 
 
 Nov. 1 
 
 
 Wilfreda 
 
 creamy yellow 
 
 tall 
 
 Nov. 15 
 
 one of older varieties 
 
 Yellow Estrelita 
 
 bright golden yellow 
 
 tall 
 
 Nov. 15 
 
 sport of Estrelita 
 
 Yellow Loucella 
 
 bright yellow 
 
 med. 
 
 Nov. 5 
 
 very prolific 
 
 Yellow Supreme 
 
 buff yellow 
 
 tall 
 
 Dec. 10 
 
 not common in Cali- 
 fornia 
 
 Yellow Tuxedo 
 
 clear yellow 
 
 tall 
 
 Nov. 1 
 
 sport of Tuxedo 
 
 

 Table 6. POMPON VARIETIES 
 
 Name 
 
 Characteristics 
 
 Remarks 
 
 
 
 
 
 Color 
 
 Height 
 
 Blooms 
 outside 
 
 
 Small or Button Pompons 
 
 Aaron 
 
 bronzy scarlet 
 
 short 
 
 Oct. 15 
 
 long season 
 
 Adorable 
 
 yellow 
 
 med. 
 
 Dec. 1 
 
 good late yellow 
 
 Argo 
 
 soft pink 
 
 med. 
 
 Nov. 1 
 
 productive 
 
 Baby 
 
 bright yellow 
 
 short 
 
 Nov. 15 
 
 very popular; smallest 
 button 
 
 Baby Doll 
 
 yellow with red 
 center dot 
 
 med. 
 
 Oct. 15 
 
 very small button 
 
 Baby Grand 
 
 deep rose pink 
 
 tall 
 
 Nov. 10 
 
 graceful sprays 
 
 Bobette 
 
 lavender with darker 
 center 
 
 short 
 
 Dec. 5 
 
 many blooms 
 
 Bright Eyes 
 
 blush with rose center 
 
 short 
 
 Nov. 1 
 
 
 Bronze Dot 
 
 light bronze 
 
 tall 
 
 Oct. 25 
 
 sport of Pink Dot 
 
 Bronze Mrs. Roenig 
 
 bright chestnut 
 
 med. 
 
 Nov. 1 
 
 large sport of Mrs. 
 Roenig 
 
 Bronze Perfection 
 
 dark reddish bronze 
 
 med. 
 
 Nov. 15 
 
 large button 
 
 Brown Button 
 
 bronze 
 
 tall 
 
 Nov. 10 
 
 prolific 
 
 Cho Cho 
 
 pink 
 
 med. 
 
 Nov. 10 
 
 large, excellent quality 
 
 Christmas Gold 
 
 bright yellow 
 
 med. 
 
 Dec. 1 
 
 
 Clara Jameson 
 
 bronze 
 
 med. 
 
 Nov. 1 
 
 small, reflexed, good 
 substance 
 
 Clare 
 
 white 
 
 med. 
 
 Nov. 15 
 
 small, compact 
 
 Dainty Maid 
 
 blush pink 
 
 med. 
 
 Oct. on 
 
 baby button 
 
 Dark Pink Jewell 
 
 deep lavender 
 
 med. 
 
 Oct. 15 
 
 sport of Jewell 
 
 Dolora 
 
 dark bronze 
 
 med. 
 
 Nov. 15 
 
 
 Dorothy Nehrling 
 
 deep rose 
 
 tall 
 
 Nov. 15 
 
 good pink button 
 
 Eileen 
 
 bright cherry red 
 
 med. 
 
 Oct. 1 
 
 
 Ethel 
 
 bright red 
 
 short 
 
 Oct. 25 
 
 productive 
 
 Geraldine 
 
 lemon yellow 
 
 med. 
 
 Dec. 1 
 
 good large button 
 
 Gold Coast 
 
 deep lemon yellow 
 
 med. 
 
 Oct. 25 
 
 fine large button 
 
 Golden Charm 
 
 bright gold 
 
 med. 
 
 Oct. 1 
 
 good substance 
 
 Harmony 
 
 deep orange shading 
 
 red 
 white, salmon pink, 
 
 tall 
 
 Nov. 25 
 
 interesting color 
 
 High Lights 
 
 tall 
 
 Nov. 1 
 
 good keeper 
 
 
 mahogany center 
 
 
 
 
 Hilda Canning 
 
 dark bronze 
 
 tall 
 
 Nov. 25 
 
 fine sprays 
 
 Irene 
 
 pure white 
 
 short 
 
 Oct. 15 
 
 good substance 
 
 Isobel 
 
 deep pink 
 
 short 
 
 Oct. 25 
 
 shape like Nuggets 
 
 Jewell 
 
 pink 
 
 med. 
 
 Oct. 15 
 
 shape like Nuggets 
 
 Judith Anderson 
 
 golden yellow 
 
 med. 
 
 Oct. 15 
 
 stocky plant 
 
 Little Tot 
 
 pale rose 
 
 short 
 
 Nov. 15 
 
 good sprays 
 
 Little Truant 
 
 dark bronze 
 
 short 
 
 Nov. 20 
 
 
 Lois 
 
 dark gold shading 
 orange 
 
 med. 
 
 Nov. 5 
 
 shape like Nuggets 
 
 Marguerite Clark 
 
 rose pink 
 
 tall 
 
 Nov. 25 
 
 good sprays 
 
 
 [37] 
 
 Continued next page 
 

 Table 6. POMPON VARIETIES (continued) 
 
 
 
 
 Characteristics 
 
 
 
 Name 
 
 Color 
 
 Height 
 
 Blooms 
 outside 
 
 Remarks 
 
 Small Button Pompons — Continued 
 
 Martha 
 Mary Pickford 
 Minong 
 Mission 
 Mrs. Needles 
 Mrs. Roenig 
 Nancy Crain 
 
 Nesco 
 New York 
 Nuggets (see p. 25) 
 Patsy Dowd 
 Penelope 
 Persian Rose 
 
 Pink Dot 
 
 Pinketee 
 
 Pink Pearl 
 
 Pinocchio 
 
 Pixie 
 
 Purple Button 
 
 Red Persian Rose 
 
 Robin Hood 
 
 Rufus 
 
 September Gems 
 
 Silver Bells 
 
 Snow Cloud 
 
 Svea 
 
 Thyra 
 
 Tokyo 
 
 Varsity 
 
 Vivian Martin 
 
 Yellow Dot 
 
 Yellow Irene 
 
 yellow 
 
 white 
 
 white 
 
 It. rose, darker center 
 
 bright pink 
 
 deep rose pink 
 
 white, diffused orchid, 
 brown eye 
 
 rose pink 
 
 buff with crimson ctr. 
 
 golden yellow 
 
 red 
 
 brilliant yellow 
 
 deep rose pink, shad- 
 ing purple 
 
 light pink with 
 crimson center 
 
 soft pink 
 
 rose pink 
 
 glistening white 
 
 golden yellow 
 
 amaranth purple 
 
 raspberry red 
 
 deep red 
 
 crimson maroon 
 
 golden yellow 
 
 white 
 
 pure white 
 
 golden bronze 
 
 deep lavender 
 
 canary yellow 
 
 rich yellow 
 
 It. yellow, dkr. center 
 
 rich yellow, reflexed 
 
 lemon yellow 
 
 med. 
 
 Nov. 15 
 
 short 
 
 Nov. 1 
 
 stocky 
 
 Oct. 20 
 
 short 
 
 Nov. 1 
 
 short 
 
 Nov. 1 
 
 med. 
 
 Nov. 1 
 
 
 Nov. 5 
 
 med. 
 
 Oct. 20 
 
 
 Nov. 1 
 
 med. 
 
 Oct. 25 
 
 short 
 
 Nov. 5 
 
 short 
 
 Oct. 25 
 
 med. 
 
 Oct. 23 
 
 tall 
 
 Oct. 25 
 
 med. 
 
 Nov. 1 
 
 med. 
 
 Oct. 25 
 
 tall 
 
 Oct. 25 
 
 med. 
 
 Nov. 10 
 
 tall 
 
 Nov. 1 
 
 short 
 
 Oct. 25 
 
 med. 
 
 Nov. 1 
 
 med. 
 
 Nov. 1 
 
 med. 
 
 Sept. 15 
 
 med. 
 
 Nov. 1 
 
 med. 
 
 Oct. 20 
 
 med. 
 
 Nov. 1 
 
 med. 
 
 Nov. 1 
 
 tall 
 
 Dec. 20 
 
 med. 
 
 Nov. 1 
 
 tall 
 
 Nov. 1 
 
 med. 
 
 Nov. 1 
 
 med. 
 
 Oct. 20 
 
 feathered button type 
 
 ball-like 
 
 ball-like 
 
 good pot plant 
 
 good pot plant 
 
 sturdy grower 
 
 easy grower, large 
 
 large 
 
 large, good sprays 
 stiff stems 
 good red 
 short button 
 open sprays 
 
 good sprays, reflexed 
 
 good for bunching 
 
 large 
 
 fine small flowers 
 
 fine small flowers 
 
 off color 
 
 good pot plant 
 
 medium button 
 
 medium button 
 
 wiry stems 
 
 ball-like 
 
 heavy branching 
 
 good pot plant 
 
 large novelty 
 
 hardy, late, large 
 
 small 
 
 Very small sport of Pink 
 
 Dot 
 good producer; sport of 
 
 Irene 
 
 Intermediate Pompons 
 
 Barcarole 
 Bright Spot 
 
 golden yellow 
 deep old rose 
 
 tall 
 med. 
 
 Nov. 5 
 Nov. 1 
 
 good producer 
 good sprays 
 
 [38] 
 
Table 6. POMPON VARIETIES (continued) 
 
 Name 
 
 Characteristics 
 
 Remarks 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Color 
 
 Height 
 
 Blooms 
 outside 
 
 
 Intermediate Pompons — Continued 
 
 California Beauty 
 
 deep purple 
 
 med. 
 
 Nov. 
 
 10 
 
 good stems and sprays 
 
 California Firebird 
 
 bronze shaded gold 
 at tips 
 
 tall 
 
 Dec. 
 
 1 
 
 loose form 
 
 Cavalcade 
 
 mandarin red 
 
 med. 
 
 Dec. 
 
 10 
 
 
 Cameo 
 
 ivory white 
 
 med. 
 
 Dec. 
 
 5 
 
 good sprays 
 
 Captain Cook 
 
 deep rose pink 
 
 med. 
 
 Oct. 
 
 23 
 
 
 Caroline Yosick 
 
 lavender pink 
 
 med. 
 
 Oct. 
 
 20 
 
 more rigid stem than 
 Pink Dot 
 
 Cassandra 
 
 bright orange 
 
 med. 
 
 Nov. 
 
 1 
 
 good color 
 
 Chicago Pearl 
 
 ivory white 
 
 med. 
 
 Nov. 
 
 15 
 
 
 Christmas Cheer 
 
 deep yellow 
 
 med. 
 
 Dec. 
 
 15 
 
 
 Christmas Red 
 
 deep red 
 
 med. 
 
 Dec. 
 
 10 
 
 
 Crimson Dot 
 
 yellow shading to 
 crimson eye 
 
 tall 
 
 Oct. 
 
 25 
 
 
 Dark Pink Bulkeley 
 
 deep rose pink 
 
 tall 
 
 Oct. 
 
 25 
 
 
 Debonair 
 
 rich crimson 
 
 med. 
 
 Dec. 
 
 5 
 
 vig., popular decorative 
 
 Derigold 
 
 golden yellow 
 
 med. 
 
 Nov. 
 
 10 
 
 
 Frances Huckvale 
 
 gardenia white 
 
 med. 
 
 Nov. 
 
 1 
 
 
 Golden Emblem 
 
 golden yellow 
 
 med. 
 
 Nov. 
 
 20 
 
 
 Golden Spray 
 
 yellow 
 
 med. 
 
 Oct. 
 
 10 
 
 good yellow 
 
 Golden Surprise 
 
 sulfur yellow shading 
 
 med. 
 
 Nov. 
 
 20 
 
 
 Illini Snowflake 
 
 clear white 
 
 med. 
 
 Nov. 
 
 5 
 
 
 Ivory Snow 
 
 deep ivory 
 
 med. 
 
 Dec. 
 
 30 
 
 
 Jemima 
 
 reddish bronze 
 
 med. 
 
 Oct. 
 
 23 
 
 
 Jessie 
 
 lavender 
 
 med. 
 
 Oct. 
 
 25 
 
 good cut flowers 
 
 Joan Wells 
 
 bronze 
 
 tall 
 
 Oct. 
 
 15 
 
 
 Lakme 
 
 white with chartreuse 
 
 med. 
 
 Nov. 
 
 12 
 
 good producer 
 
 Martha 
 
 eye 
 golden yellow 
 
 med. 
 
 Oct. 
 
 25 
 
 good feathered pompon 
 
 Masterpiece 
 
 tourmaline pink 
 
 med. 
 
 Nov. 
 
 15 
 
 
 Matchless 
 
 white 
 
 tall 
 
 Nov. 
 
 15 
 
 
 Minuet 
 
 rosy pink 
 
 tall 
 
 Nov. 
 
 25 
 
 like Mrs. Bulkeley 
 
 Mrs. Bulkeley 
 
 orchid lavender 
 
 tall 
 
 Nov. 
 
 8 
 
 
 Natoma 
 
 flame scarlet 
 
 short 
 
 Oct. 
 
 25 
 
 bushy and sturdy 
 
 Navaho 
 
 deep crimson 
 
 med. 
 
 Nov. 
 
 5 
 
 
 Omega 
 
 lemon yellow 
 
 med. 
 
 Dec. 
 
 10 
 
 
 Pomponette 
 
 light buff yellow 
 
 med. 
 
 Sept. 20 
 
 early 
 
 Priscilla 
 
 white 
 
 med. 
 
 Nov. 
 
 23 
 
 
 Revelation 
 
 white decorative 
 
 tall 
 
 Dec. 
 
 
 late white 
 
 Rev. Bushnell 
 
 creamy white 
 
 med. 
 
 Nov. 
 
 8 
 
 
 Riviera 
 
 pink 
 
 med. 
 
 Dec. 
 
 15 
 
 very showy 
 
 Rodell Improved 
 
 lemon yellow 
 
 med. 
 
 Oct. 
 
 20 
 
 decorative pompon 
 
 Roman Bronze 
 
 buff bronze 
 
 med. 
 
 Oct. 
 
 20 
 
 
 Royal Queen 
 
 white 
 
 med. 
 
 Dec. 
 
 5 
 
 
 
 [39 
 
Table 6. POMPON VARIETIES (continued) 
 
 Name 
 
 Characteristics 
 
 Remarks 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Color 
 
 Height 
 
 Blooms 
 outside 
 
 
 41 
 
 Intermediate Pompons — Continued 
 
 
 
 Ruby Pompon 
 
 ruby crimson 
 
 med. 
 
 Oct. 
 
 5 
 
 
 Rusticon 
 
 rust red 
 
 tall 
 
 Nov. 
 
 20 
 
 
 Seafoam 
 
 clear white 
 
 med. 
 
 Nov. 
 
 20 
 
 good keeper 
 
 Sea Gull 
 
 creamy white 
 
 med. 
 
 Nov. 
 
 1 
 
 
 Snow 
 
 clear ivory 
 
 med. 
 
 Dec. 
 
 30 
 
 sturdy grower 
 
 Sunnyside 
 
 golden yellow 
 
 med. 
 
 Nov. 
 
 25 
 
 good form 
 
 Trianon 
 
 crimson bronze 
 
 tall 
 
 Nov. 
 
 10 
 
 good form 
 
 Uneeda 
 
 lavender or rosy pink 
 
 med. 
 
 Nov. 
 
 25 
 
 
 Usona 
 
 lavender 
 
 med. 
 
 Nov. 
 
 25 
 
 
 Vesper 
 
 white 
 
 med. 
 
 Nov. 
 
 10 
 
 
 White Yuletide 
 
 white 
 
 med. 
 
 Nov. 
 
 28 
 
 
 Yellow Beauty 
 
 golden yellow 
 
 med. 
 
 Nov. 
 
 10 
 
 
 Yellow Bushnell 
 
 pernet yellow 
 
 med. 
 
 Nov. 
 
 10 
 
 
 Yellow Fellow 
 
 deep lemon yellow 
 
 med. 
 
 Nov. 
 
 15 
 
 
 Yellow Hammer 
 
 golden yellow 
 
 med. 
 
 Oct. 
 
 20 
 
 
 Yellow Sea Gull 
 
 lemon yellow 
 
 med. 
 
 Nov. 
 
 1 
 
 
 Yellow Snow 
 
 deep lemon yellow 
 
 med. 
 
 Dec. 
 
 30 
 
 
 
 Large Pompons (most are : 
 
 suitable f 
 
 or disbuddin 
 
 f) 
 
 Angelo 
 
 soft pink 
 
 tall 
 
 Oct. 
 
 5 
 
 
 Arcadia 
 
 pure white 
 
 med. 
 
 Oct. 
 
 25 
 
 sturdy grower 
 
 Azora 
 
 light pink 
 
 med. 
 
 Oct. 
 
 10 
 
 
 Betty 
 
 bronze incurved 
 
 short 
 
 Sept 
 
 1 
 
 
 Bristolite 
 
 deep orange 
 
 med. 
 
 Nov. 
 
 10 
 
 
 Bronze Doty 
 
 light bronze 
 
 tall 
 
 Nov. 
 
 5 
 
 good sprays 
 
 Bronze Goldsmith 
 
 deep reddish bronze 
 
 med. 
 
 Nov. 
 
 25 
 
 fine sport of Goldsmith 
 
 Bronze Masterpiece 
 
 apricot bronze 
 
 med. 
 
 Nov. 
 
 15 
 
 prolific sport of Master- 
 piece 
 
 Bronze Princeton 
 
 deep bronze 
 
 tall 
 
 Nov. 
 
 15 
 
 sport of Princeton 
 
 Bronze Source d'Or 
 
 orange with reddish 
 shade 
 
 tall 
 
 Oct. 
 
 1 
 
 good decorative pompon 
 
 California Pride 
 
 deep pink 
 
 tall 
 
 Nov. 
 
 5 
 
 good color and substance 
 
 Dawn 
 
 orchid pink 
 
 tall 
 
 Nov. 
 
 10 
 
 
 Diana 
 
 snowy white 
 
 med. 
 
 Nov. 
 
 5 
 
 sturdy grower 
 
 Dr. W. R. Pettit 
 
 pink 
 
 tall 
 
 Oct. 
 
 15 
 
 good stem and foliage 
 
 Eden 
 
 deep rose 
 
 short 
 
 Oct. 
 
 25 
 
 
 Elora 
 
 shell pink shading 
 orchid 
 
 med. 
 
 Oct. 
 
 5 
 
 waxy petals 
 
 Elsie Kramer 
 
 shell pink 
 
 med. 
 
 Dec. 
 
 10 
 
 fine for late cutting 
 
 Firebird 
 
 reddish bronze with 
 gold 
 
 med. 
 
 Oct. 
 
 25 
 
 
 Golden Feather 
 
 golden yellow 
 
 tall 
 
 Oct. 
 
 1 
 
 garden or pot plant ; 
 
 (Source d'Or) 
 
 
 
 
 
 decorative pompon 
 
 
 [40 
 
Table 6. POMPON VARIETIES (continued) 
 
 Name 
 
 Characteristics 
 
 Remarks 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Color 
 
 Height 
 
 Blooms 
 outside 
 
 
 
 Large Pompons 
 
 —Continued 
 
 
 
 Golden Victory 
 
 rich yellow 
 
 med. 
 
 Dec. 
 
 on 
 
 good decorative pompon 
 
 Goldsmith 
 
 orange yellow 
 
 med. 
 
 Nov. 
 
 25 
 
 fine decorative for cut 
 
 Gracie Fields 
 
 deep old rose 
 
 tall 
 
 Nov. 
 
 5 
 
 long sprays 
 
 Granite State 
 
 pure white 
 
 short 
 
 Oct. 
 
 25 
 
 good pot or garden plant 
 
 Greta 
 
 white 
 
 med. 
 
 Oct. 
 
 1 
 
 prolific early pompon 
 
 Lillian Doty 
 
 shell pink 
 
 tall 
 
 Oct. 
 
 15 
 
 incurved ; good cut firs. 
 
 Mary Lennon Hall 
 
 bright yellow 
 
 tall 
 
 Oct. 
 
 20 
 
 erect grower 
 
 Masaka 
 
 bright yellow 
 
 tall 
 
 Oct. 
 
 10 
 
 good form 
 
 Masterpiece 
 
 clear pink 
 
 med. 
 
 Nov. 
 
 15 
 
 strong stem 
 
 Queen of Pinks 
 
 lavender pink 
 
 short 
 
 Nov. 
 
 10 
 
 
 Red Doty 
 
 red 
 
 tall 
 
 Oct. 
 
 25 
 
 good cut flower 
 
 Red Robin 
 
 crimson 
 
 tall 
 
 
 
 late 
 
 Red Rust 
 
 red and gold 
 
 tall 
 
 Oct. 
 
 20 
 
 unusual color 
 
 Richard Mandel 
 
 white 
 
 
 Nov. 
 
 10 
 
 
 Romola 
 
 light pink 
 
 med. 
 
 Oct. 
 
 20 
 
 fine color and form 
 
 Silver Ball 
 
 pure white 
 
 med. 
 
 Oct. 
 
 1 
 
 good early white 
 
 Spun Gold 
 
 deep lemon yellow 
 
 med. 
 
 Dec. 
 
 15 
 
 good decorative 
 
 William Sobey 
 
 canary yellow 
 
 tall 
 
 Oct. 
 
 15 
 
 
 White Doty 
 
 clear white 
 
 tall 
 
 Oct. 
 
 25 
 
 good cut flower 
 
 Yellow Arcadia 
 
 golden yellow 
 
 med. 
 
 Oct. 
 
 25 
 
 
 Yellow Beauty 
 
 golden yellow 
 
 short 
 
 Nov. 
 
 10 
 
 good garden or pot plant 
 
 Yellow Doty Improved 
 
 bright yellow 
 
 med. 
 
 Oct. 
 
 30 
 
 good cut flower ; good 
 foliage 
 
 Yuvawn 
 
 bright yellow 
 
 med. 
 
 Oct. 
 
 10 
 
 
 
 [41] 
 
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 large when disbudded 
 
 fine garden variety 
 
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 Zaza 
 
In order that the information in our publications may be more intelligible, it is sometimes neces- 
 sary to use trade names of products and equipment rather than complicated descriptive or chemical 
 identifications. In so doing, it is unavoidable in some cases that similar products which are on the 
 market under other trade names may not be cited. No endorsement of named products is intended 
 nor is criticism implied of similar products which are not mentioned. 
 
 operative Extension work in Agriculture and Homo Economics, College of Agriculture, Univers 
 operating. Distributed in furtherance of the Acts of Congress of May 8, and June 30, 1914. J. 
 
BOOK TC * ^"^ ON THE LAST DATE 
 
 u 
 
 MOST CHRYSANTHEMUM varieties bloom in 
 California from October through November, and 
 certain selected varieties mature outdoors through 
 late summer to Christmas flowering. The long dry 
 season from early summer through the fall favors 
 chrysanthemum culture. It preserves the blos- 
 soms, even though it demands frequent irrigation. 
 
 Varietal choice is wide, with final selection de- 
 pending upon the amount of time a grower can 
 give to the plants. For instance, large-flowered 
 varieties demand much time for disbudding, 
 whereas small-flowered varieties require little or 
 no time for disbudding. 
 
 Chrysanthemums are subject to heavy damage 
 by a few serious pests and diseases, but specific 
 measures — both preventive and control — give 
 satisfactory results. 
 
 These and other problems are described in this 
 circular for both the experienced and the begin- 
 ning grower under such headings as: propagat- 
 ing, planting, irrigating, fertilizing, regulating 
 growth, producing new varieties, controlling pests 
 and diseases, and picking flowers for home and 
 for exhibit. 
 
 
 Selling price $.2428 
 
 State sales tax . . . .0072 
 
 Total price .... $.25