: . ^O Cj HEREFORD, HEREFORDSHIRE, AND THE WYE, BY D. R. CHAPMAN, Librarian and Curator of Hereford Free Library and Museum. WITH EIGHT ILLUSTRATIONS FROM PHOTOGRAPHS BY ALFRED WATKINS. HEREFORD: JAKEMAN AND CARVER. PREFACE, I N putting this little work before the public, the writer A begs to thank those gentlemen who have so kindly assisted him in his task of endeavouring to make the beauties of the County and City of Hereford more widely known than they are at present, and especially to his friend, Mr. Alfred Watkins, for the photographs from which the illustrations have been taken, as well as his great assistance in compiling the walks. Free Library, Hereford. DEDICATION To JAMES RANKIN, ESQ., MP., Chief Steward ok the City of Hereford, and Founder of the Hereford Free Library and Museum, as a tribute to the many kindnesses the writer has received at his hands. CONTENTS List ok Subscribers - - - vii. Introductory i Walks in Hereford - - 5 The Cathedral - - - 24 Picturesque Herefordshire 43 Walks in Herefordshire - - 57 Boating Si Sporting Herefordshire - 91 Gei ilogical Rambles - - 101 Cycling - - 107 Iniikx - - - in I I. LUSTRATIONS. Hereford Cathedral, from Putson - - 24 A Hi in 1 ordshire ('•'! ia'.i. Home 44 Arrow Bridge, Eardisland - - 48 Whu-.lly - 54 \ I"... Morning, <'. 'kich 60 1 1 w Mill, I > WN roN 66 Wigmore ... 68 I .vi 11 Gate, Monningi in-on-Wve 82 . viii LIST OF SUBSCRIBERS. Birmingham Free Library. Blackpool Free Library. Blashill, Mr. T., 10, Old Jewry Chambers, London Blinkhorn, Mr. T., St. Owen's Street. Hereford Bodenham. Mr. F., Aylestone Hill, Hereford. Bodenham, Mrs. F, Aylestone Hill, Hereford Bosley. Mr. E. Iv, Castle Street, Hereford. Bowell, Rev. W., Chandos House, Hereford. Bowen, Mrs., Holmer Hall, Hereford. Boycott, Mr. W., Aylestone Hill, Hereford. Brace, Mr. L. J. K., Royal Botanic Gardens, Seebpore, Calcutta. Brown, Mr. C. E., Widemarsh Street, Hereford. Browne, Mr. H., Eastham, Tenbury. Bull, Dr., St. John Street, Hereford. Burgess, Rev. \V. J., Stretton Sugwas, Hereford. Burlton, Mr. T. 1)., Eaton Hill, Leominster. Burton, Rev. John R., Howies Rectory, Bewdley. Butcher, Rev. S. J., Parsonage, West Hide, Hereford. C. Cambridge F'ree Library. Capel, Rev. A. J., Montpelier House, South Bank, Hereford. Carless, Mr. J., St. John Street, Hereford. Carless, Messrs. F. & H., High Town, Hereford. Cave, Rev. F. L., Humber House, Bloxham, Banbury. Chapman, Dr., City and County Asylum, Hereford. Chatfield, Rev. A. \V., Much Marcle, Dymoclc, Gloucester. Clarke, Mr. W. C, Portland Villas, Hereford. Clarke, Rev. W. S. Clay, Rev. G. H., Aston Rectory, Ludlow. Clive, Mrs., Perrystone. R.OSS. LIST OF SUBSCRIBERS. IX. Cock, Mr. B., Eign Street, Hereford. Colborne, Mr. Langdon, Church Street, Hereford. Colleson, Rev. G. V., Bacton, Hereford. Colt-Williams, Mr. E. \V., Gate House, Hereford. (2 copies.) Cooke, Mr. C. W. Radcliffe, Hellens, Much Marcle, Dymock. Cooke, Mr. W. H, Q.C., Sufton Court, Hereford. Cornewall, Rev. Sir G. H., Moccas, Hereford. Cotterell, Sir Henry, Bart., Garnons, Hereford. Cowtan, Capt., Exeter. Croft, Sir Herbert, Bart., Lugwardine Court, Hereford. Culwick, Mr. B., High Street, Hereford. 1). Davies, Mr. J., Wood View, Broomy Hill, Hereford. Davies, Mr. T. T., High Town, Hereford. Davies, Mr. W., Carbon Villa, Holmer, Hereford. Dean, The Hon and Very Rev., The Deanery, Hereford. De Boinville, Mr. A. C, Hill Top, Dilwyn, Leominster, de Winton, Capt., Graftonbury, Hereford. Docking, Mr. J., Breinton House, Hereford. Dodds, Mr. R. A., Fern Lodge, Hampton Road, Redland, Bristol Dolman, Rev. Canon, Broad Street, Hereford. Duncombe, Rev. W. D. V., The College, Hereford. Duncombe, Mr. A W. V., Brasenose College, Oxford. E. Edwards, Mr. Augustus C, High Town, Hereford. Edwards, Mr. E. E., Fayre Oakes, White Cross, Hereford. Elliot, Rev. \V., Brinsop, Hereford. Ellis, Mr. W. H. J., National Provincial Bank, Broad Street, Hereford X. LIST OF SURSCRIBKRS. Evans, Mrs, Moreton Court, Hereford. Evans, Rev. E. A., Holmer Vicarage, Hereford. F. Farr, Mr. C, Commercial Road, Hereford. Foley, The Right Hon. Lady Emily, Stoke Edith Park, Hereford. (2 copies.) Foley, Mr. P. II., Prestwood, Stourbridge, Worcestershire. Fortey, Mr. C, Ludlow. Fowler, Mr. J. T. Owen, St. John Street, Hereford. G. George, Mr. E., Coningsby Street, Hereford. Gilkes, Mr. M. D'Oyley, Infirmary, Hereford. Goodwin, Mrs., Hampton Bishop, Hereford. Green, Mr. R., The Whittern, Kington. Green Dragon Hotel Co., Broad Street, Hereford. Griffiths, Mr. R., Sycamore House, Hay. (2 copies.) Guise, Mrs. Vernon, Lea Vicarage, Ross. Guthrie, Miss, The Poole, Hereford. H. Hanbury, Mr. G. B., Castle Street, Hereford. Hancocks, Mr. A. A, Camperdown House, Broomy Hill, Hereford. Hardwicke, Miss, Commercial Road, Hereford. Hatton, Mr. A., Bridge Street, Hereford. Havergal, Rev. Prebendary, Upton Bishop, Ross. Haywood, Mr. W. M., Blakemere, Hereford. Heins, Mr. N., Broad Street, Hereford. Hereford, The Right Rev. the Lord Bishop of, The Palace. Hereford Free Library. LIST OF SUBSCRIBERS. XI. Hewitt, Rev. C. A., Hope End, Ledbury. Holloway, Rev. E. J., Clehonger, Hereford. Holmes, Mr. V. W., Southfield, Leominster. Hopton, Rev. M., Canon Frome, Hereford. Horden, Mr. G., Hay. Hotchkis, Mr. J., Llanstephan, Builth. Hotham, Rev. F. H., Rushbury Rectory, Church Stretton. Huckson, Mr. C. J., Portland Street, Hereford. Hulme, Rev. \V., Brampton Abbotts, Ross. Humfrys, Mr. W. J. ( Bridge Street, Hereford. (2 copies.) Hunt, Mr., King Street, Hereford. Hutchinson, Mr. A., Hagley Park, Hereford. I. Ipswich Museum. J- James, Mr. J. Gwynne, Aylestone Hill, Hereford. James, Mr. F. R , Aylestone Hill, Hereford. Jenkins, Mr., St. Owen's Street, Hereford. Jones, Miss, Moorfields, Hereford. Jones, Mr. Joseph, Broad Street, Hereford. Jones, Mrs. S. J., Hampton Park, Hereford. K. Keay, Mr. R., Wye Terrace, Hereford. Key, Mrs. H., Wilton House, Ross. L. La Touche, Rev. J. I >., Stokesay, Craven Arms, Salop. Lambe, Mr. J., Bridge Street, Hereford. Lawford, Mr. H., St. Kthelbert Street, Hereford. Lea, Rev. Josiah T., Far Forest Parsonage, Rock, Bewdley. Xll. LIST OF SUBSCRIBERS. Lee, Rev. J. \V., Brilley, Whitney, Herefordshire. I.evason, Mr. A. G., Bridge Street, Hereford. Lewis, Captain T, Freke, Abbey Dore Court, Hereford. Lewis, Mr. R., Cedars, Hampton Park, Hereford. Lewis, Mr. VV., St. Owen's Street, Hereford. Llanwarne, Mr. I'., Hereford. (2 copies.) Lomax, Rev. J. J., Breinton, Hereford. M. Machie, Mr. G. E., College Grounds, Malvern. Manchester Free Library. Martin, Mr. C. G., Gloucestershire Bank, Hereford. Matthews, Mr., High Street, Hereford. Matthews, Mr. J. J., Woodland House, Blakemere, Hereford. McAdam, Mr. G. C, St. Owen's Street, Hereford. Merrick, Mr. F. H., St. Owen's Street, Hereford. Metcalfe, Rev. G. M., Lyde Vicarage, Hereford. Moore, Mr. H. C, Broad Street, Hereford. Morgan, Capt., R. E., Quarry House, Aylestone Hill, Hereford. Morris, Mr. T., Ingestre Road, White Cross, Hereford. Musgrave, Rev. Canon, Broad Street, Hereford. Myer, Mr. Grenville, Commercial Street, Hereford. N. Newcastle-on-Tyne Free Library. (2 copies.) O. Oldham, Mrs., Hampton Bark, Hereford. P. Paris, Mr. T. C., Tupsley, Hereford. Parry, Mrs., Broomy Hill, Hereford. Partridge, Mr. C. A., Ludlow, (j copies.) Pateshall, Mr. Evan, Allensmore Court, Hereford. LIST OF SUBSCRIBERS. XI11. Payne, Mr. \V., High Street, Hereford. Peploe, Major D. P., Garnstone Castle, Herefordshire. Phillips, Mr. S. T., Wellington, Hereford. Phillott, Rev. H. W., Staunton-on-Wye, Hereford. Pilley, Mr. E., High Town, Hereford. Pilley, Mr. \V., Eign Street, Hereford. Poole, Rev. \V., Hentland, Ross. Powell, Mr. L., Commercial Road, Hereford. Powle, Mr. R., Ross. Prince, Mrs., Beaufort Row, Clifton, Bristol. Pulley, Mr. J., M.P., Lower Eaton, Hereford. (4 copies.) Pulling, Mr. W. D., Castle Street, Hereford. R. Rankin, Mr. J., M.P., Bryngwyn, Hereford. Raynall, Rev. P. W., Belmont, Hereford. (2 copies.) Reid, Mr. R. T., M.P., Elvaston Place, South Kensington. (2 copies.) Reid, Mrs. R. T., ditto ditto (2 copies.) Ridley, Rev. O. M., Bishopstone, Hereford. Robertson, Mr. A., Castle Street, Hereford. Robinson, Mr. E. G. L., Peterchurch, Hereford. Robinson, Mr. W. H., Offindeans, Walsall. Robinson, Mr. W. \V., King Street, Hereford. Roper, Mr. H. J., Lorraine House, Hampton Park, Hereford. Rushy, Rev. W E., Felton, Bromyard. S. Sandford, Rev. Holland, Eaton Rectory, Church Stretton. Saxby, Mr. C. J., Leominster. (4 copies.) Saye and Sele, Ven. The Archdeacon, The Lord, Hereford. Scobell, Mrs. E. C, Daffaluke House, Ross. \l\ LIST i>h SUBSCRIBERS. Seaton, Rev. D., Goodrich, Ross. Seward, Mr., Cardiff. Shackleton, Rev. T., Broomy Hill, Hereford. Shaw, Mr. \\\, King Street, Hereford. Shepherd, Rev. \V. R., l'reston-on-Wye, Hereford. Slagg, Mr. C, Presteigne. Smith, Mr. H., Hampton Park, Redland, Bristol. Smith, Mr. T., A.C.A., Holmer, Hereford. Smith, Mrs. Wyndham, Aramstone, Ross. Smith, Rev. T. T., Thruxtone, Hereford. Spencer, Mr. P. Russell, Dover House, Hereford. Spencer, Rev. G. L., Broomy Hill, Hereford. Sprague & Co., Messrs., St. Martin's Lane, Cannon Street. (2 copies.) Stanhope, Rev. B. L. S., By ford, Hereford. Stanhope, Sir H. S., Bart., Holme Lacy, Hereford. Stead, Mr. AV., King Street, Hereford. Stephens, Mr. Edwin, Widemarsh Street, Hereford. St. John, Rev. H. R, Dinmore, Hereford. Stokes, Miss, Nelson Road, Hereford. Stoodley, Rev. T. A., County College, Hereford. Stubbs, Miss, Penyard House, Ross. Sudbury, Mr. J. W., Broad Street, Hereford Symonds, Mr. J. !■'., Bridge Street, Hereford. T. Tatham, Rev. F. H., Cathedral School, Hereford. Taunton, Mr. E. A., Vowchurch, Hereford. Taylor, Mr. J., Threefall, Oxford. Tedman, Rev. J., Much Birch, Ross. Thomason, Mr. R., Dryhridge House, Hereford LIST OF SUBSCRIBERS. XV. Thompson, Miss, St. Nicholas Square, Hereford. Tilley, Mr. Luke, Ledbury. Townsend, Mr. A., High Town, Hereford. Townsend, Rev. J. H., Hope Vicarage, Leominster. Treherne, Rev. C. A., The College, Hereford. Tudor, Mr. C. W., Vine Villa, Ledbury Road, Hereford. Tuite, Mr. J., Aylestone Hill, Hereford. Turner, Mrs. T. C, The Fosse, Hereford. Tweed, Rev. H., Bridstow Rectory, Ross. V. Vale, Mr. J., Church Street, Hereford. (2 copies.) Vassar-Smith, Mr. R., Ashfield, Great Malvern. Vevers, Mr H., St Owen's Street, Hereford. Vevers, Mr. J. E., Varkhill, Hereford. W. Ware, Mr. J. H., Brasenose College, Oxford. Ware, Rev. J. M., Ullingswick, Bromyard. Watkins, Mr. A., Hereford. (2 copies.) Watkins, Mr. C, sen., Hereford. Watkins, Mr. C, Hereford. (2 copies.) Watkins, Mr. H., Hereford. Weare, Mrs., Hampton Bishop, Hereford. Webb, Rev. T. W., Hardwick. Hay. West, Rev. T., Fownhope, Hereford. Whinfield, Mr., E. W., Severn Grange, Worcester. White, Mr. J., Barton Street, Hereford. Wliitefoord, Rev. Philip, Ledbury. Willett, Mr. W. 1L, Castle Green, Hereford. Williams, Mis-,, Broad Street, Hereford. XV'i. LIST OF SUBSCRIBKR.s. Wood, Miss, Chaddesley, Bournemouth. Wood, Mr. John H., Tarringlon, Ledbury. Woods, Rev. Frank, All Saints' Vicarage, Hereford. Woodhouse, Mr. J. G., Burghill Court, Hereford. Woollam, Rev. J., Burton le Coggles Rectory, Grantham. Woolley, Mr. G., Ludlow, (j copies.) INTRODUCTORY. THE CITY OF HEREFORD, THE City of Hereford occupies a pleasant and sheltered situation on the banks of the Wye, being surrounded on all but the West side by hills. Its ancient name was Caerfawydd, the place of the beeches, but writers differ considerably as to the etymology of its present name, the most generally received opinion being, however, that it is a corruption of " Henfordd" the old road or way. Standing as it does on the borders of Wales, the old City has seen many vicissitudes, from the time of the Ancient liritons, when Offa had his Palace at Sutton, to its siege by the Scotch Army in 1645. Little is known of its history before the period of the Conquest ; but from very early times it must have been a place of some importance, for there was a Bishop of A 2 THK CITY OF HEREFORh. Hereford in A.D. 542. and a Synod was held here A.I). 680. The murder of Ethelhcrt at Sutton, about four miles from the City, and the subsequent removal of his remains (to which miraculous powers were ascribed) to the Cathedral, attracted considerable attention to the City, and no doubt had a great deal to do with its enlargement. It was here that the treaty between Howell I >da and Athclstan was signed, and it is probable that about this time the City was walled in, as after this, frequent mention is made of repairing the walls. The circumference of the walls, which contained six gates, is stated by Inland to have been "a goode mile." At this time it was no doubt a place of considerable importance, since in A.I). 1052 an inroad of the Welsh was opposed by the garrison, and the City preserved from plunder; but three years afterwards, at another incursion, the place was sacked, and the Cathedral burnt to the ground. Harold, afterwards King of England, was sent by Edward the Confessor to avenge this disaster. He suppressed the rebellion, re-built the walls, and, it is supposed, built the CastU-. After the Norman Conquest the governorship of the Castle was given into the hands of Richard Fitz-Osbom, the builder of Richard's Castle: and, from the Domesday Book, we learn that at that period, Hereford was governed by a bailiff, and had only one hundred and three inhabitants within and without the walls ; but this most probably was due to the massacre and plunder by the Welsh above mentioned, which is borne out by a statement, made further on, that in the time of King Edward, the Bishop held ninety-eight houses of him, but when Robert (Losinga) came to the THE CITY OF HEREFORD. 3 See he found but sixty. After the rebellion of the Lords Marchers against Henry II. the Castle and City reverted to the Crown, in whose hands it remained until the Parliamentarian struggle. During the Barons' Wars, Prince Edward, afterwards Edward I., was imprisoned in the Castle, from which he escaped by the aid of the Lords Mortimer and Clifford ; but in the Wars of the Roses the place does not appear to have played any important part, although doubtless the interest of the Mortimers here must have created a strong feeling in favour of the Yorkists. After the Battle of Mortimer's Cross, Owen Tudor and nine officers of rank were put to death in the City. At the Parliamentarian struggle, Hereford and its neighbourhood declared for the King, but after a short siege surrendered to Waller. He, after taking it, neglecting to garrison the City, it was immediately occupied again by the Royalists, and alter the Battle of Naseby sustained a second siege, by the Scotch Army under the Earl of Leven, but was relieved by the King. Soon afterwards the garrison was surprised by the Parliamentarians under Col. Birch, and the Castle demolished, only one very small portion being left standing ; this is now incorporated in the greenkeeper's house, and the r ward of the once-famed Castle forms an agreeable i> imenade for the inhabitants of the City. The civil history of the City is very interesting. Prom time immemorial it was governed by a bailiff, with serjc.int- at-mace, leather searchers and ale COtiners, who regulated the assize of bread and beer, and held Courts within the City.* *For a full description of this interesting matter, the reader is referred to "Manners and Customs of Hereford," by the late Town Clerk, R. Johnson, Esq. 4 THE CITY Or HEREFORD. The Bishop and Clergy also had a large share in the civil government of Hereford, derived from the Bishop's Fee, which formed nearly one half of the City, and in which he exercised all lordship's rights, as well as the power of transferring the markets, at certain periods of the year, to places appointed by himself, and collecting the tolls for his own use. Naturally, in this state of divided authority many cases of dispute arose, which, however, always terminated in the Bishop's favour; and, accordingly, we find in the various charters granted to the City from time to time, until the last one of William III., that the agreements made between the Burgesses, and the Dean and Chapter and the Bishop, are all confirmed. The first charter of privileges granted to the citizens was by Henry III., which was confirmed and enlarged in subsequent reigns, until that of Richard II., when the name of the chief magistrate was changed from bailiff to that of Mayor. No further alteration took place until the passing of the Municipal Reform Act of 1835, when the Corporation, which then consisted of 31 members, was reduced to 24, and the five wards of the City were resolved into three. WALKS IN HEREFORD, What's to do ? Shall we go see the reliqucs of this town ? I am not weary, and it is long to-night, I pray you let us satisfy our eyes with the memorials and the things of fame, that do renown this city. Twelfth Night. No. I. High Town— The Old House— Shirehall— St. Peter's Church— St. Giles' and Williams' Hospitals — St. James' Church — Infirmary — Castle Green —St. Ethelbert's Hospital— St. Ethelbert's Well— Quay Street- Cathedral Close. WE will suppose the visitor to commence his perambu- lation from the centre of the High Town. The first object to arrest his attention will be the Old House, the only one left of a row, which formerly reached from this spot to St. Peter's Church. It is a very fine specimen of timber architecture, supposed to have been the 6 WALKS IN HEREFORD. work of John Abel, a celebrated Herefordshire architect and builder, of James the First's time: but internal evidence would seem to give an earlier date than this for its erection. One of its upper chambers was formerly used as the Hall of the Butchers' Company. The whole building had fallen into a very dilapidated condition, but has recently been judiciously restored. Passing the Old House, and through St. Peter's Street, he will see on his left hand the Shirehall, erected in 1815. The building is in the Old Doric style, the portico being copied from the Temple of Theseus at Athens, and contains, besides the Criminal and Nisi Prius Courts, and other rooms, a spacious Hall for County Meetings; the Evening Concerts given at the Triennial Musical Festivals take place here. The Hall has lately been decorated with fresco and other paintings, by the hand of the late lamented Lady Katharine Give, an amateur artist of great taste and ability Besides these, it contains three very fine full length portraits ; one by Deris, of George the Third, mounted on a cream coloured horse ; one by Lonsdale, of Charles, second Duke of Norfolk, who long resided at Holme Lacy, about 5 miles from the City, and to whose munificence the County is indebted for the greater part of its published history; the third by Piekersgill, the Royal Academician, of Sir J. G. Cottrell, who for many years represented the County in Parliament; there is also a bust of Joseph Bailey, Esq., M.P. for the County of Hereford from 1841 to 1850. Standing within the enclosure in front of the building is a fine bronze statue, by Baron Marochetti, of the late Sir George Cornewall Lewis. It is a little larger WALKS IN HEREFORD. J than life size, and stands on a pedestal of unpolished gTanite, which bears the following inscription : — SIR GEORGE CORNEWALL LEWIS, A WISE AND HONEST STATESMAN, A PROFOUND SCHOLAR, A KIND AND FIRM FRIEND. M.P. FOR THE COUNTY OF HEREFORD FROM 1847 TO 1852. CHIEF STEWARD OF THE CITY. CHANCELLOR OF THE EXCHEQUER FROM 1855 TO 1858. HOME SECRETARY FROM 1 859 TO i860. SECRETARY OF WAR FROM i860 TO 1S63. BORN 1806, DIED 1863. Near the Shirehall stands St. Peter's Church, founded in 1070 by Walter de Laci, at the same time that he founded the Priory of St. Guthlac. After his death, which was caused by his falling from the battlements of the Church, it was given by his son Hugh to the Abbey of St. Peter, at Gloucester. The building consists of a nave, chancel, and two side aisles, with a tower terminating in a spire. The aisles are separated from the nave by octagonal pillars on the south, and clustered columns on the north side. In the chancel are oak stalls, seven on each side, which were erected for the use of the brethren of the Priory of St. Guthlac. Proceeding down St. Owen Street, a visit should be paid to the Almshouses on the left-hand side, called respec- tively St. Giles', and Williams' Hospitals. To the former of these is attached a chapel, at the western gable of which is a curious old Norman Tympanum. The visitor 8 WALKS IN I HEREFORD. should now turn to the right, opposite the Hospital Chapel, along the new street leading to the pretty little modern Church, built in 1869, and dedicated to St. James. The living, together with that of St. Peter, is in the gift of the Simeon Trustees. Passing the north side of St. James' Church, the visitor will see the Hereford Infirmary, erected in the year 1776; it is very pleasantly situated on the banks of the Wye : the site was given by the Earl of Oxford and Mortimer. The Castle Green, which is close by, is the next object of interest to the visitor. It is a beautiful public walk, commanding extensive views of the Wye and surrounding country. This Green was part of the site of Hereford Castle, the only remains of which now existing, are the moat on the north side, and a small piece of the wall, built into the greenkeeper's house ; just at the end of the moat, overgrown with ivy and creepers, is a little bit of the old city wall. The Castle was built by Harold II., and afterwards strengthened and enlarged by successive Norman Earls and Governors. It consisted of two wards, the western and the eastern. The western ward contained the keep, described by Leland as " high and very strong, having in the outer wall two semicircular towers, and one great tower within ; " of which we now find no traces, the mound on which it stood, the keep, and every vestige of the wall having been removed, and the site occupied by villa residences and gardens. In the eastern ward, which forms the site of the present walks, was a Chapel, dedicated to St. Cuthbert, also a gatehouse, a mill, and two dwelling houses, none of which now remain. On WALKS IN HEREFORD. t) the opposite side of the moat, with a garden running pleasantly down to it, is St. Ethelbert's Hospital, founded A.D. 1 220, by the Dean and Chapter of Hereford; the present building was erected in 1805. In the centre of the Castle Green, surrounded by pieces of artillery, said to have been used by the Royalists of the City during the Parlia- mentarian struggle, is a stone column erected in honour of Lord Nelson, who was a freeman of the City. At the western entrance to the Green is a well, known as St. Ethelbert's Well, to which medicinal virtues are attributed. Passing the well, the visitor walks along Quay Street, at the termination of which, a few paces on his left, is the Cathedral Close. No. II. High Town — Commercial Street— Iiye Street — Commercial Road — City and County Gaol — Coningsby Street — Coningsby Hospital — Widemarsh Street. {+ TARTING again from the High Town, and looking j*\ towards the Old House, the visitor will keep on the / ^"^ left hand side, where the first notable object is the New Market Place. The central portion is devoted princi- pally to stalls for the sale of poultry, dairy produce, &c, and in no market in the kingdom are these things exhibited in a more tempting manner, the Christmas exhibitions being well worth a journey to see. Passing on through the High Town, we come to Commercial Street, formerly called Bye Street ; a corruption of Bishopsgate Street, so called from the Bishop's Gate, or Byester's Gate as it was more recently termed, an old city gate which formerly stood near the end of the street. Just before the visitor reaches Commercial Square, he will pass, on his left hand, some Almshouses within iron railings. These were founded about the year 1601, by Mr. Thomas Kerry, of Sherfield, Kent, a native of Hereford, and were endowed by the founder with houses and lands, which endowment has since been augmented by a legacy of jQ 1,000 left by Mr. Thomas Baker, of Hereford, A.D. 1788. They were re-built by public subscription in 1825, for the accommodation of an equal number of men and women. Just off Commercial WALKS IN HKREKORD. II Square, which occupies the site of the Old Byester's Gate, at the entrance of Union Street into that thoroughfare, the visitor will see a building faced with Bath stone. This is the Hereford Dispensary, originally founded in 1835, for administering medical and surgical relief to the Poor of the City. A few yards below this is Bath Street, in which are situated the Steam Flour Mills, and the Public Baths, both erected by the Hereford Society for Aiding the Industrious. At the end of Commercial Road, on the opposite side, is the Hereford City and County Gaol. This was built between the years 1792 to 1798, and occupies the site where formerly stood the Priory of St. Guthlac. The original founder of this religious house was Walter de Laci, who, with his brother, accompanied the Norman Conqueror to England. Upon the settlement of the Normans after the battle of Hastings, he was sent into this part of the country to assist in its subjugation. In this he greatly distinguished himself, and was rewarded for his services with grants of land situated in different parts of the County, many of which bear his name to the present day. As has been already stated, he built St. Peter's Church, and was also a considerable benefactor to the Abbey of St. Peter, at Gloucester, to which this l'riory was attached.* Upon his death, he was succeeded by his eldest son Hugh : but he, joining with others in favour of Robert Curthose, was banished, and the estates sequestrated and bestowed upon Hugh, his next brother, whip gave St. Peter's Church with all appurtenances to the Abbey of St. Peter, Gloucester. • Dujjilalu's Mniiasticon, v. i, p. 537. II walks IN HEREFORD. The Priory, according, to I.elaml, was a very fine building, as he says " it is very pleasant and large, having much land, spacious gardens and orchards, fine walkes, a rivulet called Eigne, running under the walles, with stately chambers and retirements.'' At the time of the taxation by Pope Nicholas, for the Crusade under Edward I., its valuation was stated to be ^55 9*. 2d. per annum : and at the dissolution of the Monasteries under Henry Villi, £,\2\ jj. 2}&d. per annum. After the dissolution, the site, with the precinct and other lands belonging, was conveyed into the hands of John ap Rice as tenant in chief, upon the yearly payment of four shillings and six- pence to the Crown, and was held by his descendants until the beginning of the seventeenth century, when it fell out of their hands, to return to them a little later on. It remained with them till 1776, when it passed into the possession of William Symonds, Esq., who sold it to the County Authorities for the purpose to which it is now- applied. Turning back towards the City, the visitor will enter Monkmoor Street, and then proceeding along Coningsby Street, will reach Widemarsh Street, formerly called Wig- more or Wigmoremarsh Street, probably from its having been the main road to Wigmore, the ancient seat of the Mortimers. As the entrance of Coningsby Street into Widemarsh Street is neared, he will see on his right hand some old ruins: they are the remains of the Black Friars' Monastery, the entrance to which is through Coningsby's Hospital, a few r yards down Widemarsh Street. The Monas- tery was founded about the year 1276, by three Black Friars, WALKS IN HEKKFORD. I ;, who erected a small oratory in the Portfields, somewhere near the Byester's Gate, under the auspices of William Cantilupe, brother to the Bishop of that name. A dispute arose between them and the members of the Cathedral, which resulted in their removal. Sir John Deinville gave them a piece of land in the Widemarsh suburb, which was supplemented by the Bishop (Cantilupe), who gave them another piece adjoining. Here they commenced a Church and Priory, but their patron, interfering in the Barons' wars against Kdward II, was taken prisoner, beheaded, and buried at Hereford, his body being interred somewhere near the Cathedral Cross. This suspended the progress of their work, and it was not until the following reign that the buildings were completed, under the auspices of the King, who, with his son the Black Prince, three Archbishops, a Bishop, and the King's confessor, were present at the ceremony. The last named died during the solemnities, and was buried in the choir of the new Church. The Friars soon acquired lands, and entered into another controversy, this time with the Bishop. Disputing his authority over them, the suit was carried before the Archbishop of Canterbury, who decided in their favour, declared them subject only to the Apostolic See, and com- manded the Bishop and his commissary to appeal before him on the next day after the least of St. Fidus the Virgin ; when they were probably reprimanded, and warned against further interference. Several persons of eminence were buried in the Church, the following being enumerated by Leland: — William Beauchamp, Farl of Abergavenny, and his wife; John Hastings, Earl Pembroke (whose body 14 WALKS IN HEREFORD. was afterwards removed to the Grey Friars, London, the latter paying to the Black Friars ^ioo); Sir Nicholas Clare; Sir John Hurley; and Henry Oldcastle. At the dissolution of the Monasteries (no valuation is given) the site and all the buildings were granted to John Scudamore, of Wilton, and William Wygmore, of Shobdon; in Elizabeth's time the property belonged to the Wynnes, from whom it passed into the hands of the Coningsbys of Hampton Court. During the latter part of the reign of James I., the Priory was used as the townhouse of the Coningsbys, who, it is supposed, built the small round tower. The remains now existing have been thought to be those of the Prior's house, but Mr. Cordon Hills, the eminent antiquarian, is of a different opinion. He says, " The eastern side was the west wall of the Cloister, which extended to the spot where the tower stands, and there joined the Church, the centre of the Church coinciding with the walk which now leads to the Cross."* The Church has entirely disappeared, though possibly careful search might reveal its foundations, and beyond the fact that it had a spire, nothing is known of its architecture. The Preaching Cross is in the form of a hexagon, open on each side, and surrounded by a flight of six steps. The shaft branching out forms the roof, which has an embattled parapet, and passing through terminates in a cross. The structure had fallen into a very dilapidated state, but was restored in 1865, under the superintendence of Mr. Scott. Several engravings of the Cross at different periods are extant. The Coningsby Hospital was formerly a small building and chapel belonging to the Knight's Templars, who had * Journal British Archreological Association, 1871, p. 172. WALKS IN HEREFORD. 1 5 preceptories at Dinmore and Garway ; but according to Leland it was "a hospital of St. John, some time an house of Templars, now an almshouse, with a chapel." On the expulsion of the Order from England, it passed into the possession of the Crown, but was restored to the Knights during the succeeding reign. In Elizabeth's reign it was a second time taken from them, and granted to Robert Freke and John Walker, from whom it was purchased by the Coningsbys. In 1614 Sir Thomas Coningsby began the foundation of the Almshouses for " two of the most valued characters in society (although generally the most neglected), the worn out soldier and superannuated faithful servant," the old hospital of St. John furnishing the site, and the adjoining ruins of the Black Friars the materials for the building. The previous occupation of the site by the Hos- pitallers is noted by the deed of Sir Thomas Coningsby giving the hospital, in which he says, " being seized in fee, " of houses, lands and parcels of the commandry, which " were the inheritance of those Knights of St. John, of " Jerusalem the said Sir Thomas ordained and "constituted that all that quadrangle or square building of " stone should be and remain a hospital for ever, under " the name of Coningsby's Company of Old Servitors, in "the suburbs of the City of Hereford." The apartments in the Hospital consist of one room on the ground floor, and two upstairs, for each inmate. The house on the south side with the Norman arch over the doorway, supported by circular columns, is supposed to have formed the original entrance to the Hall of the Knights Templars. The Hos- pital is governed by the senior resident, who is known as 16 WALKS IN HKKEFORD. Corporal Coningsby, under the control of the owner of Hampton Court, who is always styled "The Commander," and in whom all matters of appeal and patronage are vested. Returning towards the City, the street leading from Widemarsh Street, opposite Coningsby Street, is called Black- friars' Street ; it leads to the north gate of the Cattle Market, which was established in 1856, under the City Improvement Act, and occupies a space of four acres. Proceeding on- wards we conic to the intersection of Blue School and New-market Streets with Widemarsh Street. At this spot stood the Old Widemarsh Gate, with a moat and drawbridge in front, the former of which was not completely filled in until 1854. The house on the left, next but one to Blue School Street, is the Gate House, a very fine old timber edifice of the Tudor period, the exterior of which has recently been restored by its present occupier, E. W. Colt-Williams, Esq., H.M. Inspector of Schools for the district ; it contains some very fine old oak wainscoting and carving. A few doors higher up on the same side, is a large building in the Italian style, surmounted with a statue of Urania; this is the Hereford Ladies' College, which was erected by a Limited Company in i860, and contains accommodation for about 60 boarders. A little beyond this we arrive at Maylord Street, — so called from John Maylord, who was Mayor of Hereford four times, from 1560 to 1574, — in which are situated the Offices of the Hereford Times, said to be the largest pro- vincial paper in England. The present proprietor, Alderman Anthony, established it in 1832, and has shown great judgment and liberality in its management. No. III. High Town— High Street— All Saints' Church— Eign Street— Wall Street — Eign Gate — Congregationat Chapel — Hereford, May, and Brecon Railway— Price's and Lingen's Hospitals — Lazarus Hospital — White- cross Kennels — King's Acre. TAKING the High Town again as a starting point, the visitor will proceed due west through High Street. Walking a few yards, he will arrive at Broad Street, and immediately opposite, on his right hand, will see the Church dedicated to All Saints. The date of the erection of this Church is somewhat uncertain; from its appearance it should be about the latter part of the fourteenth century. It was attached to the Hospital of St. Anthony of Vienna, li\ gift from Henry III. During the wars which ensued later on with France, it was seized by the Crown as being the property of aliens; finally it was granted to the Dean and Chapter of Windsor, in whose hands the living still remains. The building consists of Nave, Chancel, and two side Aisles; in the Chancel are the oak stalls formerly used by the Brethren of St. Anthony, and in the Vestry is a Library of chained books, left by Dr. Brewster as the foundation of a Parish Library. Passing down Eign Street, the visitor will see, at the end of the street on his right hand, a large brick building in an unfinished state. It was intended for a Skating Rink and Theatre, but is now used as a warehouse for a brewery H l8 WALKS IN HEREFORD. in Bewell Street (a corruption of By-the-Wall Street), which is the narrow street running to the right of it (as the visitor faces the building), parallel with Eign Street. The narrow street on the western side of the building is Wall Street, in which some remains of the City Wall are to be seen. When the visitor arrives at this spot he is standing on the site of the old Eign Gate of the City. On the left is the Maiden- head Inn, with a narrow passage by the side of it, whose name (Gunner's Lane) brings to recollection the siege of Hereford. A few yards forward on the left hand is Victoria Street, which runs upon the site of the old City Moat ; here several portions of the old wall may still be seen. Opposite this is Edgar Street, leading to Widemarsh Common. A few- yards beyond Edgar Street, on the same side of the way, is the Eignbrook Congregational Chapel, established by Mr. George Frimrose, at the ejection of the Non-conformists in 1662. The present building was erected in 1872, and has sittings for 400 persons. Passing this we arrive at the bridge over the Hereford, Hay, and Brecon Railway, the station of which stands a few yards to the left. The whole of the goods and mineral traffic from South Wales to the Midland and Northern Counties, passes through here. Opposite the Railway Station are the Scudamore Schools, the entrance to which is from Friars' Street. These Schools originated in a bequest of John, first Lord Scudamore, in 1 668, of ^400 as a perpetual stock, to be applied for the employment of the poorer classes in the City. The money was invested about 30 years after, in the name of the Bishop and other Trustees, and had accumulated in 1763 to ^1,140. WALKS IN HEREFORD. 19 This was re-invested in three per cent, annuities, and pro- duced ^1,340. Various sums of money were lent from time to time for the purpose of establishing manufactories, chiefly in woollen and leather fabrics, none of which however proved successful. In 1840 the money had accumulated to ;£6,ooo, and an Act of Parliament was procured for devoting part of this sum to the erection and maintenance of schools, as the next best method of carrying out the benevolent wishes of the founder. The management is vested in a Committee of Trustees, of whom the Bishop of Hereford is chairman. Crossing over the Railway Bridge, and proceeding a few hundred yards along the Whitecross Road, or, as it is sometimes called, the Above Eign, we come to a cluster of Almshouses on the right hand side, the first of which, 1 'lire's Hospital, was founded in 1636 by Mr. Wm. Price, for twelve poor men and a chaplain. It is endowed with lands in Clodock, Much Mansel, and Leominster, and, by the will of the founder, the inmates must have been inhabitants of Hereford for seven years previous to their election ; the management is in the hands of the City Charity Trustees. Adjoining is Lingen's Hospital, founded in 1709 by Mrs. Jane Shelley, daughter and heiress of John I.ingen, Esq. It is endowed with a sum of ^30 per annum, issuing from a rent-charge on lands in the Parish of Marden. The original building was allowed to fall into decay, and for some time the recipients of the charity were allowed £5 each per annum at their own homes. The present building was erected in 1S01. After walking about ten minutes along the road between clusters of semi-detached villas, the Whitecross is reached. 20 WALKS IN HEREFORD. During the prevalence of the plague in Hereford in 1347, the markets were held here, and a few years after, Bishop Charlton erected this cross ; but tradition varies as to what it was intended to commemorate. According to some writers, it was the plague, whilst others assert it was erected in memory of Bishop Cantilupe, who, in walking from his Palace at Sugwas to Hereford, heard, at about this spot, the Cathedral bells ring of their own accord. Opposite the Cross, on the left hand side of the road, are the Kennels of the North Herefordshire Hounds; and about ten minutes' walk further on, along the Hay road, are the celebrated Rose Nurseries of Messrs. Cranston and Company. No. IV. High Town — Broad Street — King Street — Bridge Street— Wye Bridge — St Nicholas' Street —City Walls — St. Nicholas' Church — Barton — Broomy Hill — Waterworks — Cemetery — Whitecross Street — Eign Street. Ati.MN starting from the High Town, the tourist will proceed along High Street, and, taking the turning to his left, will find himself in Broad Street, certainly the most imposing thoroughfare in the City. The large building at the corner, on the left hand, is the Gloucestershire Banking Company's Office, and a little lower down, on the same side of the way, are the imposing looking Offices of the National Provincial Banking Company. On the opposite side of the street is the Corn Exchange, which was built in 1857, on the site of the old theatre. Directly opposite this, having a bold Doric front, is the Roman Catholic Church dedicated to S. Francis Xavier, and, adjoining it, is the Post Office, which was formerly at the house on the left hand side of the Cathedral gates. The latter is now used as a bank. Immediately opposite is the Free Library and Museum, erected in 1874, chiefly through the munificence of James Rankin, Esq., M.P. for Leominster, and Chief Steward of the City: it contains a Reading Room, Museum Room, Librarian's Apartments, and a room called the Woolhope Club-room, in which the celebrated Field Club known by that name holds its meetings. The Library consists of about 10,000 vols., and is divided into lending and reference 22 WALKS IN HEREFORD. libraries ; the books in the lending department are issued to persons for perusal in their own homes ; those in the reference library are only allowed to be used in the room. The Library contains, besides a valuable collection of local, topographical, and other books and MSS., a portrait of Velters Comewall, Esq., sometime M.P. for the City, by Gainsborough ; a portrait of the founder by Tbt/eedie, and a portrait of Joseph Hume ; in the Museum is a good collection of Silurian fossils and local birds, with some few local antiquities. Just beyond the Library, on the right hand, is King Street ; the first turning on the left in King Street, is Bridge Street, leading down to the Wye Bridge, from which, looking up the river, a beautiful view is obtained, with the distant range of the Black Mountains forming a background. The bark ricks near the bridge, on the right bank of the river, occupy the site of the old St. Martin's Church, demolished by the Scotch Army during the Parliamentarian struggle. Returning towards the City, at the foot of the bridge on the right hand side is Gwynne Street, so called because Nell Gwynne is said to have been born in one of the houses on the right hand side of the street. The turning on the left, at the top of Bridge Street, is St Nicholas' Street, leading to St. Nicholas' Church, which was re-built here in 1842. On the bank of the river, and facing St. Nicholas' Church, is a large brick building called the Friars, which occupies the site of a Monastery of Grey Friars, from which the neighbourhood took its name. From the road leading from the Church to the Friars, a good view is obtained of the remains of the old City Walls. WALKS IN HEREFORD. 23 Proceeding along the Barton, and crossing the Railway Bridge over the Abergavenny and Newport Railway, the left hand road is taken, and after a few minutes' walk the Waterworks are reached. The view from this spot is very beautiful, embracing on the East, the Malvern and Woolhope Hills ; on the South, the range running from Ross to Mon- mouth, terminating in the Great Uoward ; on the West, the fine range of the Black Mountains, to their abrupt termination towards Hay ; and on the North, the bluff point of Ladylift, with its pine trees on top, the Radnor- shire Hills as a background, and the valley of the Wye stretching from the observer's feet. It is a view which should not on any account be missed. Returning from the Waterworks, the traveller should take the first turning on his left, and, on coming out into the main road, turn to the left again, when in a few minutes the Cemetery is reached ; passing through this, and coming out at the lodge gate, he will follow the road into White- cross Street, and from thence return along Eign Street to the City. THE CATHEDRAL. Tl I E original Cathedral Church of Hereford was doubt- less contemporary with the foundation of the See, the date of which is lost in antiquity, but it is deemed by Hcylin to be the most ancient Bishopric in England. Archbishop Usher states that one of its bishops attended a synod, which was held at Llandewibrefi in Cardiganshire, during the year 544, and the first mention of the Cathedral occurs about that time; for we learn that Geraint ap Erbin, who died about the year 542, founded a church at Hereford, or, as it was then termed, Caerffawydd. Although there i-- no doubt that a Bishop of Hereford was present at a conference held at Aust with St Augustine, yet no mention is made of the Cathedral until the time of Offa, when that l'rince — it is supposed — caused the body of Ethelbert, who was murdered at his palace of Sutton, to be removed from its first place of burial at Marden, to the Cathedral Church of Hereford, which See he endowed with a considerable quantity of land, in expiation of his crime. The Cathedral at this time was, however, a very humble one, as a few THE CATHEDRAL. 25 years later we read that Milfrid, King of Mercia, "moved by the renown of the miracles wrought at Hereford by God, for the sake of St. Ethelbert, sent abundance of money there, and began from the foundation, and perfected a superior church of stone." * This church must have been destroyed in some manner, as another chronicler, Simeon of Durham, copying from Turgot, the second prior of that place, about noo, says that Athelstan, Bishop of Hereford, died on the ioth of February, 1056, and that his body was entombed in the church he had constructed from the foundations ; he also says that at the capture of the City by the Welsh and Irish, under Griffith, Prince of Wales, " the great minster which Athelstan, the venerable Bishop, caused to be built, they plundered of relics and vestments." f The Chronicles of Jervaux, and Roger de Hoveden, also state that the church was burnt on this occasion. It is not known whether the church built by Milfrid gave place to the one by Athelstan, but both of them dis- appeared from the scene, to make way for the present — the fourth — Cathedral. Little seems to have been done towards the re-building of the sacred edifice until after the Norman Conquest, when William of Malmsbury relates that Robert de Losinga, or Lotharingia, the first Bishop of Hereford under the Norman Rule, A.D. 1079, built the church of Hereford in a long round shape, in imitation of the basilica of Aix-la-Chapelle. Little mention is made of it during the lives of the next three or four Bishops, but in the troublous and perilous times of Robert de Bethune, who ruled the See • 1 bronlcles of Jervaux. t Saxon Chronicle. 26 THE CATHEDRAL. from 1131 to 1 148, we find William of Wycumbe, who succeeded him as prior of Llanthony, relating that " he was buried in his own mother church, which he with great expense and solicitude completed." Since his death the building has been little altered in extent, the South Tran- sept, with the sacristy in the place of an aisle, having undergone less alteration than any other part. The North Transept contains but little of the old Norman work; the Norman tower itself has vanished (with the exception of the arches), and one of a later period taken its place. It is in the Nave, however, that the building has undergone the greatest alteration, owing to the fall of the western tower in 1 786 ; the main arches are still Norman, but the Triforium and Clerestory are of very weak and poor design; they were copied by YVyatt from those in the Choir. It is to William de Vere, who was Bishop from 1186 to 1 198, that the most important additions are attributed, the architecture of the whole of the South-East Transept and Lady Chapel, shewing that they were included in 'i^ plan. The Lady Chapel is one of the most perfect spe< i- mens of the architecture of De Vere's time, embracing as it does the pointed forms of that period, with the Chevrons of the Norman style. The whole of the East end of the Cathedral bears the impress of his design. This is evident from its basement and construction, the bases of the pillars, which were apparently designed for columnar shafts, the doors leading to the Vicars' Cloister and Crypt, and the string course below the North-East Transept. Beneath the Lady Chapel is situated the Crypt, formerly a Chapel dedicated to St. Anne, the mother of the Virgin THE CATHEDRAL. 27 Mary, of the date of which we have no information. It certainly must have been early, as traces of Norman or Saxon work may be seen here and there. Mention is first made of it in 1382, when a Chantry was founded in the Chapel of St. Anne "beneath the shrine of St. Thomas."* From the death of De Vere until the appointment of 1'eter de Aquablanca, little was done to the edifice; but to the hitter is generally attributed the reconstruction of the North Transept, from its similarity to work at Fountain's Abbey, and in Durham Cathedral, which was executed about the same time; also from the position of his tomb, which is so beautifully fitted and placed in the wall, and so much in character with the other part of the work, that it must have been built in there before his death. That the tomb is really that of Aquablanca there can be but little doubt, as Leland, who saw the Cathedral in the reign of Henry VIIL before anything had been disturbed, names it ; Symonds, Dingley, and Gougk, too, afterwards speak of it as being in the same place, where it is to this day. The best evidence of all, perhaps, is that given by the late Dean Merewetlur, who says that John de Aquablanca, Dean of Hereford, by his will, dated 1 3 1 9, directed that he should lie buried near his uncle; and, accordingly, there we find, side by side, the tomb of a Bishop and a Dean. Between the death of Aquablanca, and the accession of Swinfield to the See, A.D. 1287, the work he had planned seemed to have steadily progressed, the most notable addition, namely, the first bay of the beautiful North Porch, probably taking place during the time of Swinfield's friend and predecessor, St. Thomas de Cantilupe. •Antiquities of the Cathedral Church of Hereford, 28 THE CATHEDRAL. That the Cathedral was then again becoming very much in want of repair is known, because Peckham, Archbishop of Canterbury, granted indulgences of seventy days to anyone giving to it forty days' work. After Swinfield's death, Adam de Orleton was made Bishop, and he, with great energy, took steps to repair the fabric then falling to ruin, and obtained a bull from John XXII., granting the churches of Shinfield and Swallowfield for the use of the fabric, upon which the Dean and Chapter had already expended the large sum of twenty thousand marks. It is generally considered that the North Transept was included in this outlay, as the columns bear marks of having been pushed over soon after their construction. That the transept was not taken down its existence shows ; but the work remaining also shows that the whole of the aisle walls, and those of the South-East Transept, from the string course upwards, were re-built, and they are of the middle pointed style of that period. The South Transept was probably not finished until Charlton's time, nearly one hun- dred years later, when most likely the tower was completed, and the whole building, in its general outline, had much the same appearance that it now exhibits. Whether the spire, which was of timber covered with lead, was then finished, we have no means of determining; but probably it was, as about this time Hugo, the priest of St Martin's, in this city, covered the entire roof of the church with lead.* On the burial of Bishop Trevenant in the South Transept, in 1404, the whole of the end wall was taken down, and re-built with his tomb in it, above the tomb being inserted the fine *Antiquities of the Cathedral Church of Hereford. THE CATHEDRAL. 29 perpendicular window ; this example was followed soon after- wards, by the erection of a noble West window of six lights, which was destroyed at the fall of the tower. With what patience this work was pursued may be gathered from the fact that Lochard, the pnecentor, who began it, died in 1438, and it was not until 14S1 — 90, during the time of Dean Chaundeler, that the stained glass was filled in.* John Stanbury, Bishop of the Diocese, 1453 — 74, soon after built the beautiful little Chapel in the North Aisle, which bears his name. Bishop Audley, too, 1492 — 1502, " built a Chapel from the foundations, hard by the shrine of St. Thomas the Confessor, and in the same he founded a perpetual Chantry." f It is of two stories, with a stone screen in front, which partly fills the bay ; the upper portion probably was designed for his own use, when he wished to offer his devo- tions at the altar of the Virgin, and shrine of St. Thomas; the lower portion no doubt being used as a chapel for saying masses for the soul of the Bishop after his death. Bishop Booth was the last prelate who made any great addition to the edifice. In his time, the North Porch with parvyse over, received the addition of an outer porch of one bay. In the East buttress is a small doorway, and just above this doorway, in the moulding, are two shields, one bearing the Arms of Bishop Booth, and the other, those of Bishop Mayo, between which is an inscription in relief, "Anno Domini, IS J 9-" '1 n ' s doorway was long a puzzle to antiquaries, but the difficulty seems to be satisfactorily sohn I. Tlicie was a chapel outside the North Porch in the time of Edward III., t probably situated between the projection * Harl. MS. f Antiquities of the Cathedral Church of Hereford. 3<D THE CATHEDRAL. of the porch, and the transept, and this door must have been left for access to it when the porch was built. The Chapel has altogether disappeared, leaving no trace of its existence. With this necessarily brief outline of the history of the fabric, the visitor is recommended to commence the exam ination of the interior, at the North, or Bishop Booth's Porch, and to keep always on the left side ; the objects of interest will then be seen in the following order : Tomb of Bishop Booth, 1535, who desired to be buried near the north porch, and had the monument erected during his life-time. Memorial Window (by Warrington) to the memory of Canon Clutton, 1862. NORTH TRANSEPT. Monumental Brass to the memory of Elizabeth Bissell, and Elizabeth Earrington, 1867. The door in the corner leads to the tower and belfry. Magnificent Memorial Win- dow to the late Archdeacon Freer, 1S64, (by Hardman). Memorials of Bishops Westfaling, 1601, and Charlton, 1343. Stone Coffin of the thirteenth century. Stained Glass Window in memory of Captain Edward Kempson, 1870. Three-light Window and Brass to the memory of Captain Henry Arkwright, 1868. Window of three lights to the memory of Rev. Samuel Clark, late Rector of Eaton Bishop, and formerly principal of St. John's College, Battersea. Shrine of Bishop Thomas de Cantilupe, 1282. This tomb lias been carefully restored and removed from the eastern wall to its present supposed original position. Tomb of Bishop Eield, 1636. Tomb of John de Aquablanca, Dean, 1320. THE CATHEDRAL. 31 NORTH CHOIR AISLE. Tomb of Bishop 1'eter de Aquablanca, 1268, the most ancient of the episcopal effigies in the Cathedral, and the most beautiful in design. Brass plate, in the pavement, to the memory of Philips, the Herefordshire Poet, 170S. Effigy of Bishop Mapcnore, 12 19. Door to the Library, which contains many rare books and manuscripts. Tomb of Bishop Clive, 1 1 19. Window and Brass to the memory of John Hunt, organist of the Cathedral, 1842, and to his nephew, James Hunt, who died of grief three days after him. Tomb of Bishop Bennett, 1617. Tomb of Bishop Braose, 12 16. Adjoining this, inside the Choir, is the Tomb of Bishop John Stanbury, 1474, a fine work in alabaster. Brass plate affixed. Bishop Stanbury's Chantry, 1470. The windows of this beautiful little chapel form part of the Musgrave Memorial. Tomb of Bishop Capclla, 1127. Monumental Window to Ar< hbishop Musgrave (of York), i860. Tomb of Bishop Reynelm, n 15. NORTH-EAST TRANSEPT. Note the base of the centre column and the remains of mural decorations on the South wall. Incised Slab, sup- posed to have been prepared by Sir John Devercux and his lady, 1394. Effigies of unknown lay persons, fourteenth century. Matrix of a Brass, fourteenth century, to an Ec- clesiastic. Tomb of Bishop Richard de Swinfield, 1316. Memorial Brass and Window to the Rev. John Goss, Custos of the College of Vicars Choral, 1878. Brass to the Terry family (by Hardman), 1861. Altar Tomb, unknown, ascribed to Bishop Warton, 1557. Various fragments of early cof) Fourteenth century Window, restored (by Warrington). 32 THE CATHEDRAL. Tomb, supposed, from the effigy on it, to be that of a lay- man. Memorial to Dean Dawes, who so greatly contributed to the advancement of Elementary Education in this country, 1867. LADV CHAPEL. A most beautiful specimen of Early English architec- ture. Will repay careful inspection. Entrance to the Crypt. Brass to the memory of Dean Merewethcr, who died in 1850. Monument of Peter Baron de Grandisson, 1358. Tomb of Johanna de Bohun, 1327. The Windows over the Reredos were erected in 1852 (by Gibbs), as a public memorial to the memory of Dean Merewether. Memorial Windows on each side of the Chancel in memory of Canon Morgan and family, who were connected with the Cathedral for many years. Encaustic Tiles, fifteenth century. The Audley Chapel, used as the sacristy of the Lady Chapel. Two Windows of ancient glass, restored about 1850. Tomb of Dean Borewe, 1462 ; the ornaments on the tomb, a boar, with rue in his mouth, are a play upon the name (Borewe). The remains of a mounted Brass to Canon de la Barr, 1386. SOUTH-EAST TRANSEPT. Tomb of Bishop Charlton, 1369, the builder of the White Cross on the Hay Road. Monument to Bishop Coke, 1646, recently restored. Memorial Window to Bishop Hun- tingford, given by Lord Saye and Sele, (Canon Residentiary of the Cathedral) in 1863 (by Warrington.) Old stone image of St. John the Baptist, fifteenth century. Slab with bust of Mr. James Thomas, a citizen, who died 1 75 7. Stone to Bishop Humphrey Humphreys, 1712. Brass to THE CATHEDRAL. 33 the memory of Sir Richard Delabere, his two wives, eleven sons, and ten daughters, 1514. Effigy of Bishop Lindsell, 1634. Monument to Dean John Harvey, 1501. Remaining portions of Brass to Dean Chaundeler, 1490. Doorway to the Vicars' Cloister. On the west wall of the transept are numerous monumental brasses, and fragments of others, which have only lately been returned to the Cathedral ; they were removed at the time of the restoration of the edifice, and sold for old brass to a marine store dealer. Fortunately, some of them fell into the hands of the late J. G. Nicholls, the Antiquary, and through the kindness of his son, they have been replaced in the building. SOUTH CHOIR AISLE. Monument and Effigy. Bishop Richard Mayo, 15 16; restored (by Gawthorp) in 1868. The celebrated Hereford Mappa Mundi, a curious old Map of the World, on vellum, thirteenth century. A full sized fac simile of this remarkable map was published in 1872, by subscription, and may still be obtained of the local booksellers; also a volume, with full description, by Rev. W. L. Bevan and Rev. H. W. Phillott. Effigies of Bishop William de Vere, 1199, Bishop Robert Foliot, 1176, Bishop Robert de Betun, 1148, Bishop Robert de Melun, 1167, and Bishop Robert de Losinga or Lothar- ingia, 1095,* to whom the honor of planning and beginning * Note. — It is remarkable that these tombs, as well as those in the North Choir Aisle, bear the impress of having been made at one and the same time. It is supposed that at the time the renovations under Swintield and Orleton were begun, a series of tombs to these Bishops existed ; and as the then dilapidated state of these portions of the Cathedral necessitated their removal, the architect made the renewal of them a strong feature of his design. It is now impossible to say, n 34 THE CATHEDRAL. the present Cathedral is due. Brass Plate in memory of G. Townshend Smith, organist of the Cathedral for 34 years. THE ORGAN. The original instrument, 1686, was the work of Renatus Harris, and was a gift from Charles II. to the capitular body ; the cost was about ^700, but of the stops included in the organ we have no record. Early in the following century the choir organ was added by Byfield, and several minor alterations and repairs were made later on. In 1806, Elliott added pedals and pedal pipes, and soon afterwards Bishop introduced the swell. The instrument then consisted of 24 sounding stops, and three couplers, and stood on a stone screen in front of the choir. At the restoration it was taken down and placed on the floor of the Cathedral, under the easternmost arch of the North Aisle. Here it remained until 1864, when it was remodelled and enlarged by Messrs. Gray and Davison, at a cost of .£1,500. The substitution of the present screen for the old stone one, necessitated the selection of a fresh site, and the present one was fixed upon, with this difference, that the instru- with any degree of accuracy, to whom each particular niche was appropriated ; but, even as far back as Leland's time, they were held to be commemorative of Aquablanca's predecessors. The ball flower ornament in the arch, again, points to them as being all of the same date, and a strong proof of the introduction of this ornamentation into the district about this time, is to be found in Weobley Church. In 1325 Bishop Orleton consecrated three altars there. The nave and aisles bear every mark of having been re-built about this time, which would necessitate the re-consecration of the altars ; and the arches of the nave arcade all have this ball flower ornament in the hollow moulding. THE CATHEDRAL. 35 ment was placed upon the floor, the organist being seated in a little cupboard at the back of the stalls. From a musical point of view the site chosen was most lament- able, as the swell and choir organs were up in the roof of the south transept. The instrument then contained 40 sounding stops, and 2,230 pipes, and was left for further enlargement. Its incompleteness, however, weighed heavily upon the minds of many connected with the church, and in 1879, mainly through the instrumentality of the late Hon. Mrs. Herbert, Sir Frederick Gore Ouseley, precentor, and the Rev. J. R. G. Taylor, succentor, a successful effort was made to render the instrument worthy of the Cathedral. At a cost of about ,£1,400, it was raised five feet above the Choir, and a solo organ, and some additional stops were added to the swell and pedal organs. As the organ now stands, it consists of 49 stops, 8 couplers, and 12 compo- sition pedals and stops. It was re-opened with a most impressive service, on October 30th, 1879. The doorway opposite the organ leads into the Treasury, now used as' the Canons' Vestry. In this is a glass case containing a copy of the Hereford Use, a manuscript of the thirteenth century, written for this Cathedral. This was pur- chased by the Dean and Chapter of Hereford from Mr. William Hawes, who found it upon an old bookstall in Dairy Lane. Only two other copies — both of which are imperfect — are known to exist, one in the Bodleian Library, and one in the Library of St. John's College, Oxford ; the latter being a fragment only. In the case are also speci- mens of early printing, and some relics which have been found at different times in the precincts of the Cathedral. 36 THE CATHEDRAL. SOUTH TRANSEPT. Supposed to be the most ancient Norman work remain- ing of the Cathedral, but authorities differ on the subject. The eastern and western walls have been carefully restored by Sir G. G. Scott. Tomb of Alexander Denton, of Hilles- den, and Anne his wife, 1566. Effigy of Bishop John Trcvenant, 1404. Memorial to Archdeacon Waring, 1877. Ancient fire-place, restored in accordance with the original remains. SOUTH AISLE OF NAVE. Brass to Richard Phelips, and Anne his wife. Door into the Bishops' Cloister. The old Colours of the 36th or " The Herefordshire Regiment," presented by the officers in 1S61. Brass to the memory of the officers and men who died in India, 1865 — 75. Effigy of an Ecclesiastic, name unknown. Effigy, supposed to be that of a Treasurer of the Cathedral in the fourteenth century. Tomb of Sir Richard Pembridge, 1375. Norman Font, twelfth century, consisting of a solid block of stone, carved with figures of the Twelve Apostles. At the foot are four griffins, very vigorously and boldly executed. NAVE. Entering the nave at the west end, the visitor cannot fail to be charmed with the coup d'ail presented. The Norman character of the building, which would hardly be suspected from an outside inspection, now makes itself very apparent ; although, before the alterations, which the fall of the western tower in 1876 necessarily entailed, the exterior of the west end exhibited all the characteristics of a Norman Cathedral. The piers of the nave arches are I'HE CATHEDRAL. 37 cylindrical, with a pair of shafts attached to each end of their transverse diameter, the shafts terminating at the caps of the main columns. The arches are all enriched with the chevron. Moveable Oak Pulpit, supposed to have been made during the reign of James I. Carved Oak Litany Desk, made from ancient oak, from Kentchurch in this county. Brass Lectern, presented by the Misses Rushout, in 1852. The large central Corona. This and nearly all the other gas fittings were supplied by Skidmore's Art Company. There are twenty-three standards and five pendants. When lighted with gas, the corona strikingly represents a gigantic coronet, and the effect is most beautiful. THE SCREEN. The Screen, which is entirely of wrought metal work, the metals used being iron, brass and copper, is a triumph of art. It illustrates the Ascension of our Lord ; and the beauty of the work, its position and office in the Cathedral, and its structural qualities, cause it to harmonise well with the grand Norman work by which it is surrounded. The screen itself consists of five arches, each one having a centre shaft. The centre arch, which is the largest, bears, in a cusped oval, the figure of our Lord, standing upon passion flowers, and surrounded by everlasting flowers, and at each side are welcoming angels. The Trinity is symbol- ised by three open spaces, one above and one on each side of the central figure. The large pillars supporting the arches are enriched throughout, in their lower part, with diaper work, and round the upper parts are wound, spirally, orna- ments of foliage and flowers ; besides this, the centre of the column has a jewelled belt, separating the upper and lower 38 THE CATHEDRAL. parts. The capitals are of sheet metal, worked into shape by the hammer, and are of the deepest interest on that account. The arches are filled in with bold filigree work, and the spandrils with a conventional foliage composition; the cornice also has foliaceous ornaments, while the crockets of the pediments, and the grilles of the lower portion of the screen are enriched with similar ornaments. The great feature of the screen is, that not only is it wholly the con- struction of the hammer and chisel, in fact all wrought work, but the materials used for colouring the work are the oxides of the different metals used in its construction. In the upper portion of the screen, two browns prevail, blue, green, and gold, being used to give effect and assist the various forms, while in the lower portion of the work, chocolate, purple, copper colour, and blue-green are pre- dominant, with red and cream-colour for effect. These are all emphasised by the Mosaic work employed as an auxiliary, 30,000 pieces being employed in the work. It is one of the largest works of art, in metal, in the world, and redounds to the credit both of its designer, Sir G. G. Scott, and its maker, Mr. Skidmore. THE CHOIR. Bishop's Throne and ancient richly carved Oak Stalls for the Canons and Prebendaries. Effigy of Ethelbert, King of the East Angles, fourteenth century. Ancient Bishop's Chair. Tradition asserts that King Stephen sat in this chair when he visited Hereford in 11 42. Almost the only exist- ing specimen in this country of a twelfth century chair. The Reredos, erected by public subscription to the memory of Joseph Bailey, jun., Esq., who for more than nine years THE CATHEDRAL. 39 represented this County in the House of Commons. He died August 31st, 1850, aged 39. bishops' cloisters. These form a communication between the Palace and the Cathedral, through a door opening into the South Aisle. They enclose an area of about one hundred feet square, called the Lady Arbour. The east and south sides only remain ; the latter is in a very dilapidated condition, and is only used as a warehouse for lumber. The western side was destroyed in the time of Edward VI., and a room for the purposes of a Grammar School was erected in its place ; this, however, has long since been removed, and nothing remains to mark its site. the college. On the south side of the Lady Chapel is the College of Vicars Choral. It is of stone and built in the form of a quadrangle, and was supposed to have been built in the reign of Edward IV., who granted a license for the removal of the houses of the Vicars Choral to a situation nearer the Cathedral. A Cloister, the wood supports of which are very elaborately carved, connects it with the South-east Transept of the Cathedral. It contains apartments for the Minor Canons, Hall, Library, and other offices. chapter house. Between the Cloister leading to the College of Vicars Choral, and the Bishops' Cloister, are the ruins of the old Chapter House, supposed to have been erected about the time of Henry VI. The form of the building was decagonal, and the architecture and decorations were very costly and beautiful. The roof was of fine ribwork, resting on stone 40 THF. CATHKDRAL. arches, and supported in the centre by a single column, embossed with figures and devices. In the year 1652 it suffered materially from the effects of the Civil Wars, the lead being stripped from the roof and applied to defend the roof of the tower in the castle. The building itself was forty feet in diameter, the windows were pointed, and under each was a square containing five niches, in each one of which was a life-size portrait. The number of portraits was forty five, and they were arranged as follows. Beginning on the left of the entrance, the first square contained King Milfrid, King Ethelbert, Bishop Athelstan, Wulwive, a great benefactress to the church, and Godiva, of Coventry memory; the second, third, fourth, fifth and sixth squares contained portraits of our Saviour, the Apostles, and many of the Primitive Saints, most of which were stolen and removed at the time of the Civil Wars. The seventh square had, St George, Scus David, a Nun, a Bishop, and a Knight Templar. Over these were three escutcheons, bearing quar- terly, or, a maunch gules and barry of ten pieces, argent and azure; over all, seven martlets, gules, 2, 2, 2, 1. The eighth square had, a King, "Scus Edwardus," a Nun, a King, crowned, resembling one of the later Norman Kings, a female, inscribed " Sea Wenefrida," and a Bishop, inscribed "See Ceadda;" he was Bishop A.D. 850. Over each of these portraits was this coat, gules, three lions heads erased, argent. The ninth square contained a portrait of the Virgin in each of the niches ; four with the infant Christ in arms ; and beneath, portraits of religious persons in the act of praying.* * Duncumb's History and Antiquities of the County of Hereford. THE CATHEDRAL. 41 ANCIENT STONE CHAPEL. Formerly, between the Palace and the south side of the Bishop's Cloisters, stood a very ancient stone Chapel, consisting of two stories, the upper one of which was dedi- cated to St Mary Magdalen, and the lower one to St Catherine. It was undoubtedly of Saxon origin, and was demolished sometime between 1737 and 1757- It is to a Bishop of the Diocese, (Egerton) that we are indebted for this act of vandalism. He obtained a commission from the Archbishop to inspect the condition of a chapel, supposed to have been built earlier than the Cathedral. The com- mission is reported to have consisted of the Dean, two of the Canons, one of the tenants, the Bishop's steward, and a joiner, who returned it as ruinous and worthless, although it was well known that a slight outlay would have made it as good as on the day of its completion. The Bishop made an order for its demolition, but after expending ,£50 in taking down about one third, the work was abandoned, the cement being found harder than the stones themselves. The Society of Antiquaries, in order to preserve the form of so venerable a structure, ordered an engraving of it to be executed, and the transaction was noticed in the newspapers of the day, 1737. That its demolition was completed a feu- years later, we have evidence from Taylor's Map of the City, published in 1757, where an engraving of it is given, and it is described as a " Chapel now taken down." THE CATHEDRAL CLOSE. This, together with the site of the Cathedral, was given by Ralph de I.emesi to the Church of St. Mary, which dona- tion, witli others, was confirmed by Henry I. For a long E 42 I UK CATHEDRAL. period this was the burial place for the whole of the City parishes, and many of the adjoining county ones; but as great inconvenience arose from the number of bodies in- terred, the Dean and Chapter, in 1791, made an order that no more should be buried without permission; and accord- ingly, the City parishes provided separate burial places, which were consecrated by the Bishop for that purpose. On the east side is situated the Deanery, and on the north, two prebendal houses, said to have been rebuilt by Bishop Bisse. THE CATHEDRAL SCHOOL. Situated at the east end of the Cathedral. This was founded by Bishop Gilbert, Dec. 26, 1381, "for the purpose of affording gratuitous instruction to the sons of poor citi- zens," and Edward VI. afterwards ordered, by an injunction, that "In every Cathedral church where no free Grammar School already existed, one should be maintained perpetually; the master to have yearly twenty marks, and his house rent free, and the usher yearly six pounds fourteen shillings, and his chambers free." Under the statutes given to the Cathe- dral by Queen Elizabeth, and which were revised and con- firmed by Charles I., these stipends were increased to .£20 and ,£10 respectively. The appointments are all vested in the Dean and Chapter, and " the benefits of the school are entirely lost to the families of poor freemen, who were intended to have been the principal objects of the founda- tion." The school has lately been enlarged ; and through the instrumentality of the present head master, the Rev. F. H. Tatham, a room called the Gilbert Library has been added, the cost being defrayed by subscriptions received chiefly from old Herefordians, and their friends. PICTURESQUE HEREFORDSHIRE. " And view the ground's most gentle dimplcmcnt, (As if God's finger touch'd but did not press In making England) such an up and down Of verdure — nothing too much up or down, A ripple of land ; such little hills, the sky Can stoop to tenderly, and the wheatfields cliinh , Such nooks of valleys, lined with orchises, Fed full of noises by invisible streams." Aurora Leigh. THIS section is written entirely from an artist's point of view, and is intended to indicate the districts where subjects for the brush or camera are most numerous. There is no sameness about Herefordshire scenery ; in the south, from the point where the Wye flows beneath the heights of Goodrich, until it leaves the county below the " wooded walls " of the Little Howard, is river scenery on a scale of magnificence unsurpassed in England : in the north, are beauties of another type; an undulating country with 44 PICTURESQUE HEREFORDSHIRE. hills of no great altitude, wooded from summit to base, enclosing tracts of orchard, meadow, and field, overhanging as at Downton the rippling Teme, or, as at Aymestre and Kinsham, the more placid Lugg ; here too are old time villages, almost hidden in trees and orcharding, each with a crooked street of timber-framed houses, and rustic church perched on higher ground in the midst, recalling to mind the words of Herefordshire's gifted daughter in Aurora Leigh. " Hills, vales, woods, netted in a silver mist, Farms, granges, doubled up among the hills, And cattle grazing in the watered vales, And cottage chimneys smoking from the woods, And cottage gardens smelling everywhere, Confused with smell of orchards." The north of Herefordshire contains, in the writer's opinion, by far the best sketching ground in Herefordshire (the lower Wye Valley excepted), and for head quarters, either Ludlow, Wigmore, or Richard's Castle are recom- mended. On the eastern side is also an undulating timbered country, backed by that miniature mountain range, the Malverns, but without a river to add to its beauty. In the central portions, as at Sutton and Marden, the villages are embowered in apple trees, and hop yards alternate with corn and pasture. In the south-west, the long level range of the Black Mountains is broken by a series of parallel valleys, with here and there a battered tower or ruined site of a border castle, perched on their sides. Perhaps, taken as a general rule, the county, which is splendidly timbered, is seen at its best in the autumn, when to the variegated colours of the leaves, glowing with autumnal tints, is added the charm of hop-picking, and the beauty of the many A Hkiikfiihusiiiuk Ci>TTA<ii Home. PICTURESQUE HEREFORDSHIRE. 45 coloured orchards, fragrant with the smell of mellow apples and falling leaves. Hop-picking is certainly the most pic- turesque of agricultural pursuits; early in the morning whole families are met with, laden with provisions for the day, for they do not return until the evening, and the smallest children can add their quota to the cribs ; equally busy is the scene at the kilns, carts bringing in the green hops from the pickers, men turning them on the kiln with wooden shovels, or with head and shoulders appearing through a hole in the floor, treading them firmly into a pocket, while a helper shovels them in round his body. Later on comes the apple picking and cider making, when plenty of work can be found for the painter or pho- tographer. What better material for a picture than the old cider mill, its circular trough with central post and heavy runner stone, in the deep shade of a thatched out-house; the massive wooden casks trammed outside in the orchard, with a glimpse through the open doorway of the old horse moving round and round on his limited course, or stealing a mouthful of the juicy pulp, so temptingly close to his nose? There is little of interest to the artist, in local customs or peculiarities of costume, but to one with a retentive memory, or instantaneous camera, many good subjects could be met with at the numerous fairs, which take place in May through- out the county, as well as the stock fairs, which are held more frequently. At Hereford, the artist soon finds his way to the neighbourhood of the Cathedral and Wye Bridge, where a number of good views can be had ; the mile of river below the bridge also contains a quantity of picturesque "bits." 46 PICTURESQUE HEREFORDSHIRE. The Old House in the High Town is a beautiful specimen of decorated timber work (a.d. 1621), there is also a very charming little house of the same class over a grocer's shop in the High Street, and the Gate House, YVidemarsh Street, is a good specimen. The Coningsby Hospital, with the Black Friars' Monastery and Preaching Cross, is a good subject, as are also some Alms Houses in Berrington Street. The general style of the Street Architecture is not good from an artist's view, many of the houses are old, but they have been veneered with modern fronts, while inside are to be found fine oak staircases, panelled rooms, and curi- ously decorated ceilings. The Moor Farm, with its quaint pigeon house, is about a mile out on the Grand Stand Road. In the immediate neighbourhood of the City, Lugwardine, four miles out, Dinedor, three miles, and Brinsop Court, five and a half miles, are well worth visiting, the latter was for some time the residence of the poet Wordsworth, Aymestre, three and a half miles from Kingsland, (G.YV.R.,) affords a number of good subjects ; the Lugg, which for the greater part of its course is comparatively flat and uninteresting, being, from here to Presteign, and notably at Kinsham, very beautiful, and affording some exquisite subjects. Black Mountains. — This district affords some wild mountain views, with a few charming glens, but the want of any large sheet of water is a gTeat drawback : all the valleys have streams running through them, the one drain- ing the principal valley (the Honddhu) being a fair-sized one, tumbling over a shingly bed, and affording some good PICTURESQUE HEREFORDSHIRE. 47 fishing for the angler. The best head-quarters for the dis- trict are at the Inn at Llanthony Priory; and very delightful they are; the house is partly incorporated with the Abbey ruins, and there is a singular charm, after a long day's tramp over the hills, in going up a circular stone staircase to one's bedroom in a Norman tower, with white-washed walls and groined roof, lighted by a deep, narrow window, shared by the room beneath. The inn is very clean and comfortable, but punctuality is not a strong point. The chief points of interest to the artist are the Priory ruins, the Gaer Camp, the Gader, which afford fine mountain scenery, the grouping, as seen from the latter, being especially fine ; and the Rhiw- wen, a fine mountain pass. There is a very pretty dingle between the Gaer and Llanvihangel Station, and another, with a splendid grove of chestnuts, between the valley of Bettws and the Abergavenny road. Alterynnis, an old fortified farm house close to Pandy station, a rocky river scene with rustic bridge, at Clodock, and the Castle tower at Longtown, are well worth looking up. There are reliable inns at Pandy and Llanvihangel, and the little King's Head Inn, one and a half miles from the latter place, is well spoken of by anglers. Bosbury, four miles from Ledbury, has some good sub- jects, the old Church, with its separate tower, being especially good; the Crown Inn has a good interior. Half-way be- tween Posbury and Ashperton is a farm house, of a character enough to send an artist crazy with delight, as it is not often he will meet with one like this, untouched by the hand of the restorer ; the walls, and gabled roofs covered with mossy tiles, reflecting a thousand lights and shades — here from 48 PICTURESQUE HEREFORDSHIRE. weather-board and plaster, and there from damp-stained brick — with pigeons sunning themselves on the roof, or flitting from their warm home under the eaves, to the more exposed dovecote (a barrel perched on a pole) in the garden. It is called Fern Farm, and is away from the road near the canal. The Trumpet Inn, at Ashperton, on the main road, is an- other delightful old tumble-down place Brampton Bryan is a pretty village, with picturesque Castle ruins. Bromyard has no picturesque merit ; it is a queer, dead-alive town, said to be the only one in the county that is finished, for, with the exception of a new police court, there has not been a house built in the place for many years. Deerfold Forest. — The wild district lying between Aymestre, Kinsham, Lingen, and Wigmore, embracing Deer- fold, is well worth exploring. In the forest was formerly an ancient Chapel, now used as a farm house ; it does not bear, externally, any marks of antiquity, but in the bedrooms may be seen part of the old Gothic oak roof. Shobdon I'ark, across the Lugg, contains some good woodland scenery. The whole district is most secluded, as will be seen from the fact that the writer has seen, on a barn by the roadside, an Auction Bill, intact, bearing a date of eleven years before. Eardisland is quite an artist's village ; there are not so many picturesque houses as at Pembridge, but they seem to group in a more picturesque manner. The river Arrow, noted for its trout, passes through the village, and, being backed by the mill, appears more like a lake than a river. PICTURESQUE HEREFORDSHIRE. 49 At the foot of the bridge, is an old brick pigeon house, having for its weather vane, a trout made from brass. The Cross Inn is a comfortable house, as many anglers can testify. Eardisland is one and a half miles from Kingsland Station. Golden Valley. — This, from an artist's view, does not fulfil the promise held out by its name, the scenery being below the average of the county, and not to be compared with the beautiful district in North Herefordshire. The chief point of interest is Abbey Dore, where is a large and pictur- esque Church, which has not yet been "restored"; perhaps the best view of it, is from a pathway leading to Ewias Harold Common. Near Vowchurch is a fine timber house, and close to, is the quaint little Church, with its shingle roof. The remains of Urishay and Snodhill Castles are devoid of art- istic merit, and Peterchurch is utterly uninteresting. Ewias Harold, near the entrance to the Valley, contains some charming scenes, and the course of the Dulas Brook is well worth exploring. The Valley is now easy of access by means of the Railway which joins the Abergavenny line at Pontrilas. Kington itself possesses little of interest to the artist, but the situation of the town and its surroundings are ex- ceedingly beautiful. In the dingle, close behind the Church, where the scenery is very pretty, there are the remains of a mill pulled down to make room for the iron horse — the mill stones and gearing lying about in most picturesque con- fusion. At Stanner Rocks, two miles from the town, is some line scenery, and the upper course of the Arrow is worth following. LEDBURY is an old-fashioned town, nestling at the foot of the well-wooded Dog Hill, and surrounded by scenery of a 1 SO PICTURESQUE IIKREFORDSHIRK. park-like character, with its slender Church spire rising above the house tops. Conspicuous among the many quaint houses are, the oak-framed Market house, (supported on pillars, the last of its class in the county), and the Old Talbot Inn, with its queer shaped roofs, and hanging sign-board swaying in the wind. The latter contains a fine oak-panelled room. Notable among the street views are, one from a standpoint near the Plough Inn, looking down the long main street towards the Market ; and another from "The Cross," looking down New Street, and taking in the old corner house built over the ] lavement on oak pillars. Church Lane, with the tall spire, separate from the Church, appearing at the further end, and the Church itself, with its fine Norman front, should not be neglected. The hilly and well-timbered country beyond Eastnor, under the Southern slope of the Malverns, will be found very beautiful. At Hope End, near Wellington Heath, the girlhood of England's greatest poetess, Elizabeth Barrett Browning, was passed : but, alas ! the unchanging landscape alone remains in memory of her, a new owner having de- stroyed the fantastic old mansion, and erected a new one in its place. Leintwardinf. is the best head-quarters for the beautiful Downton district ; it is a large village, with fine Church, but no striking scenery near at hand ; good accommodation may be had at the principal Inn. Leominster affords several good street views; one down High Street from the Iron Cross is good, and so is another looking down Burgess Street, with the l'riory Church in the distance. There are a few half-timbered houses worthy of a sketch, and the Grange House (formerly the old Market PICTURESQUE HKRKFORDSHIRE. 51 house) is exceedingly fine. Stockton Cross, two and a half miles out, possesses a most picturesque village Inn. LUDLOW, although not a Herefordshire town, is so close to the border, and in the immediate vicinity of so much good scenery, that it can hardly be omitted. The town, both from its situation, and the number of interesting buildings it con- tains, is a very storehouse of subjects for the artist. The little Church and fine old Manor house of I.udford must be ad- mired, and the ruins of the Castle will "come in" from many points of view; in fact, what with the quaint houses in the streets, the many mills on the river, the bridges over it, and the cliffs that rise from its edge, there is no lack of work for the artist. It is, however, with the wooded scenes on the Herefordshire side of the Teme that we are chiefly concerned. Mar}- Knoll valley, a beautiful wooded dingle, was the scene of Milton's Comus ; Bringewood Chase, a long ridge, clothed with timber, gorse, and brushwood, was once a royal forest. In the valley of the Teme, at and near Ha) Mill, will be found the artist's choicest subjects, for even Bettws j Coed can furnish nothing better than this out-of-the- way corner of Herefordshire. The mill itself is a picture, and is seen to perfection in the earl) autumn, when the humid air causes a complete glow of colour to spread over the trees and moss-stained walls and tiles of the old building. The best time to photograph it, is after five on a summer's evening, or perhaps early in the morning would do as well. Below, as far as Bringewood Bridge, are many beautiful "bits." Close to Bow B good subject) is a ruined cottage, worth notice, and high up the bank above, is the old Church of Downton, almost in ruins, the windows broken in, and the 52 PICTURESQUE HEREFORDSHIRE. commandments falling clown over the dilapidated pews. This district is about seven miles from Ludlow. Orleton, one and a half miles from WoofTerton Station, is a quiet village in the plain, with many old houses of a type dear to the artist ; the Court, particularly, is worthy of a sketch, and the hanging Inn signs will he noticed as unusually primitive. Pembridge, with a Station on the Hereford and Kington Railway, is another sleepy old-world place, with a long, and it must be confessed, dirty street of quaint old houses. The Church, with separate tower, is interesting. (There are six other instances of this in the county, viz: Bosbury, Garway, Holmer, Ledbury, Richard's Castle, and Yarpole). Under the eaves of a house in the main street, near the entrance to the Church, are some beautifully carved barge boards. The Mar- ket place is humble enough ; merely an open shed, supported on oak pillars: overlooking it is the New Inn, with overhang- ing upper stories. There are perhaps more houses of a native style of architecture to be found here, than in any other town in the county. A lodging house opposite the Schools, and a farm house near the Station, are especially interesting ; and Luntly Court, with its quaint four-gabled pigeon house, (tim- ber-framed with lath and plaster, 1673) is worthy a visit A few years since, the accommodation at the Inns in Pembridge was decidedly unsatisfactory, but the Greyhound Hotel seems recently to have improved in this respect. Presteign is a little border town, beautifully situated in a hollow, surrounded by wooded hills. There are some charming views on the I.ugg, and some of the houses are worth sketching. About a mile out, are two very fine old PICTURESQUE HEREFORDSHIRE. 53 Herefordshire farm houses ; the Wegnall, a fine old timber- built structure, and the Rodd, built of stone. If it be desired to photograph them, the best time for the former is early in the morning or late in the afternoon, and the latter before mid-day. Richard's Castle is peculiarly rich in cottage and farm houses, of which many may be seen by the side of the steep road leading to the old Church and Castle. At one black and white timber-framed farm house is a curious old circular stone pigeon house with three dormer windows in the roof. The old Church, with its separate tower, is interesting, but the Castle ruins are disappointing. There is good woodland scenery at Hay Park, and behind the Castle. Comfortable quarters will be found at the Castle Inn. Woofferton, three miles away, is the nearest Station. Ross.— The situation of the town is undeniably fine, and the view of it from the Oak meadow exceedingly beauti- ful, the old stone Market place and Church are also worth seeing, but the much be-praised view from the Prospect is fiat, and utterly useless to the artist. The town is not a suit- able halting place, as the best Wye scenery does not com- mence until four miles lower down. The remains of Wilton Castle, across the river, are however worthy of a visit. Weobley, formerly an old Market town returning two members of Parliament, but which has now dwindled down to the position of a large village, is three miles from Moor- hampton Station, on the Hereford, Hay, and Brecon Railway. It has long been famous for its old houses, and although s.ully shorn of its former glories, still retains many of great interest, the most perfect being the Leys, a farm house half a 54 PICTURESQUE HEKEFORDSHIR) . mile distant, having projecting windows with diamond panes, and massive oak door and porch, seemingly unaltered since its erection in 1589. There is a posting house, and accom- modation may be had at either of the Inns. Wigmore surpasses all other Herefordshire villages in picturesque merit. The village lies at the end of a ridge sloping off into the plain, and the beautiful old Church tower standing above, <an be seen from all points. On the same ridge, but still higher up, are the ruins of the Castle, once the feudal residence of the Mortimers ; they cover a large extent of ground, and the remains of the keep, perched high in the midst, can only be gained by a steep climb from the ivy-clad gateway below. In the street will be found plenty of work for the artist ; and the Grange, rather more than a mile from the village, is a delightful old place, with gateway, pigeon house, and Abbey barn, well worthy of attention. There are two Inns in the village (the " Castle " and the " Compasses,") either of which may be relied upon. It is rather an awk- ward place to get at, being five miles from Bucknell Station (Central Wales Railway), seven from Ludlow and six from Kingsland, both G.W.R. Stations. The Wye. — There is scarcely a mile of this beautiful river but which contains something worthy of a sketch or plate, and the following hints as to the best points and head- quarters to start from may be useful. Commencing at Hay, there is plenty of work on the river near the town, the Black Mountains forming a fine background from many points. The town affords comfortable quarters, and while there, Cusop dingle should be explored. The Rhydspence Inn, three miles lower down, would be found the next best halting ■ WaOBLI v PICTURESQUE HEREFORDSHIRE. 55 place ; the house itself is the beau ideal of an old timber- built Inn, with high porch and outside staircase. There are good subjects close at hand ; Clifford Castle, overhanging the Wye, and Whitney Bridge, both make good pictures. Lower down, at Bredwardine, the " Lion'' is a good Inn, and the artist would find himself in a most picturesque district A mile or so further on is Brobury Scaur, a fine cliff over- hanging the river, and Moccas Park contains some good timbered views. The l'ortway Inn, seven miles from Here- ford, affords another suitable starting place, although a mile from the river ; near here is Monnington, where the Lych Gate and Court House are wortli attention, as is also an avenue of massive Scotch firs. Below, at Byford, are some lovely river scenes, and close to, is Byford Court, an old stone manor house, with several other antique houses near at hand. Bridge Sollers, a mile lower down, is another beauty spot. Here Offa's I )yke comes down to the river ; it is a deep wooded dingle, the road crossing it by means of a stone arch; (lose by is a very picturesque rustic lodge, and the whole neighbour! 1 teems with beauty. At the New Weir, Sugwas Boat, Breinton and Belmont, are also many pretty scenes, but there is no good accommodation in their n< bourhood. From Hereford to Ross the scenery is quiet, but by no means flat or uninteresting, and an artist might do worse than spend a few days at Hampton Bishop (at the ■i ITOtS,") one of David Cox's favourite districts, or at the "Green Man" at Fownhope, both thoroughly good Inns. li iarwith . some excellent views, and has a comfort- able Inn. Fawley Court, an old mansion, now used as a farm house, should not be missed on any account. It is. however, below Ross that the river is to be seen at its best ; between 56 PICTURESQUE IILREFORDSHIRK. Goodrich and Monmouth arc a succession of magnificent scenes, which lie in a comparatively small compass. The best and most central quarters are undoubtedly at Symonds Yat, where the Ferry Inn (quite an artist's haunt), and the refreshment house below, afford comfortable quarters. At Goodrich is an Inn, "The Hostelrie," built in the medieval style by the late Sir S. R. Meyrick, the antiquary. The artist can scarcely take a wrong direction, and may safely be left to his own resources. WALKS IN HEREFORDSHIRE. " We will travel afoot through the fields and woods, and by the side of rivers." Old Curiosity Shop. I N the walks which are here described, Hereford is taken as the starting point, either by road or rail. The routes r given, though varying in distance, are all well within a day's work, some being found to suit the able, and others again the indifferent pedestrian. The list must not be sup- posed to exhaust the resources of the county, there being many others no doubt equally good, but those here pre- sented are described from personal knowledge, many of them having been walked over several times. The pedestrian routes down the picturesque part of the Wye between Ross and Monmouth, are described in a slightly different manner to those of the other districts, as the tourist, while making Hereford his centre, may wish to spend a day or two in places which better command those views for which the river is so justly celebrated. G 58 WALKS IN HEREFORDSHIRE. The description of the scenery between Ross and Mon- mouth, as seen from a boat going down the river, is given later on, but as the boating tourist only sees part of the beauties of the landscape, he is recommended to spend a day or two in walking over the ground, and a great advantage of this course is that none of the walks are of such a length as to deter any but the most feeble pedestrian. The Ross and Monmouth Railway is a great convenience, each of the Stations forming a good starting point. From Hereford the train accommodation is ample. Ross to Goodrich via Kerne Bridge, five miles. The best part of the Wye scenery commences at Good- rich, the road to which from Ross runs through scenery comparatively tame and uninteresting, so after seeing Wilton Castle and Bridge, the pedestrian should take train from Ross to Kerne Bridge, which is on the river about half a mile below Goodrich. On crossing Kerne Bridge, Flanesford Priory will be seen on the right. This was a Priory of Augus- tine Canons, founded and endowed by R. Talbot, a,d. 1347. The Chapel k now used as a barn. The road which crosses on an archway must then be gained by the steep path leading up to it ; follow this road to the right, where, a short way on, a lane to the right leads to Goodrich Castle. The keys may be obtained from the cottage at the entrance, a fee of 6d. being charged for admission. A shorter way, after crossing Kerne Bridge, is by the stile on the left, and under the arch, keeping along the river bank, until, just before the ferry lane is reached, a pathway is seen leading up to the Castle. Should the tourist, however, prefer to walk the whole dis- tance from Ross, either of the following routes may be taken. WALKS IN HEREFORDSHIRE. 59 Ross to Goodrich, vid Wilton, five miles. Cross over Wilton Bridge (on which is a sundial worth notice,) to Wilton Castle, then take the second turn on the left, and follow the road for four miles until Goodrich Court lodge is reached ; then take the left hand road, and after passing "The Cruze," said to have been used as a prison, and " The Hostelrie," built by the late Sir Samuel Rush Meyrick, in imitation of an old English Inn, turn down a lane on the left which leads to the Castle. This route is the best for carriages, which may be put up at the Inn, the next is prefer- able for the pedestrian. Ross to Goodrich, vid Walford and the ferry, three and a half miles. Proceed over West Bank along the turnpike road to Walford, then turn to the right and inquire the way to the ferry. The tradition goes that it was here that Henry IV. received the news of the birth of his son at Monmouth, which so pleased him that he granted the boat and ferry to the ferryman and his descendants for ever, no slight boon then, when this was the high road to Monmouth. A path in the adjoining meadow leads direct to the Castle, the whole of the interior of which should be examined. To reach "The Hostelrie" from the Castle, the traveller can proceed by way of the road if the gate is unfastened, otherwise he must go round by the lane which leads to the ferry. Goodrich Castle to Ross, via the ferry and Walford, three and a half miles. Cross at the ferry into Ross road near Walford Church, or the river side path may be followed for live ami a half miles, crossing by Wilton Bridge into Ross. If the tourist 60 WALKS IN HEREFORDSHIRE. should wish to walk from Goodrich to Symonds Yat, he must follow the road past " The Hostelrie " for a quarter of a mile, and then take the route next described. Kerne Bridge to Symonds Yat, via Huntsham ferry, three miles. Take the road over the bridge, leaving Goodrich Church on the right, then by the road on the left for about a mile, and take the path leading by Rocklands House to the ferry, which may be easily recognized by the row of elm trees which borders it. Cross at the ferry, and take the cart road leading past Huntsham, an old Elizabethan manor-house, and keep straight on under the garden wall to the Yat. The Yat itself is a flat-topped rock, lying a little to the left on the highest part of the road. Symonds Yat to Kerne Bridge, via Huntsham ferry, three miles. This and the preceding route are not recommended, unless time presses, as they skip the most beautiful part of the Wye, (described on page 61). From the top of the Yat, take the cart road which runs direct to Huntsham, cross the ferry and take the path leading by Rocklands House into the main road which leads to Kerne Bridge ; by taking the right hand path, Goodrich Inn and Castle are reached. Kerne Bridge to Lydbrook Station, three and a half miles. Either the roadway on the left bank (an exceedingly pretty route) or the river side path may be taken. The road passes through the lower part of Lydbrook, a large village romantically situated in a narrow wooded valley, which leads 5 WALKS IN HEREFORDSHIRE. 6 1 up into the centre of the Forest of Dean. From here, the tourist is recommended to walk to the Speech House, distant four miles. This is a journey which will well repay him for his trouble, as the miles of undulating country, covered with oak woods and ferns, is a sight not soon forgotten. The Station is nearly a mile beyond the village. If going by the river side path from Kerne Bridge to Lydbrook, cross the bridge, and take the upper path along the river bank for some distance, as the bank itself is very stony. The path follows the river very closely, and passes the pretty Church of Welsh Bicknor, (so called in contradistinction to English Bicknor, situated on the opposite bank of the river) which is well worth examination. Cross the river by the railway bridge to the Station. Kerne Bridge to Lydbrook Station. A nearer way ; two and a quarter miles. Cross the bridge and take the road which crosses on an arch, turning to the left. Keep to the left, pass through a lodge gate, and along the carriage drive leading to Courtfield, until another lodge is reached, then turn down a lane through the wood on the right of this lodge, which brings the pe- destrian to Welsh Bicknor Church and Rectory; turn to the right, and cross the railway bridge to the Station. This route is not recommended, as the river side is much the prettier. Lydbrook Station to Symonds Yat, over the Coldwell rocks, two and a half miles. Take the path behind the water tank to English Bick- nor, where the way to the Yat through Bicknor Walks may be enquired for; or, take the same path until it comes out into the road, then turn to the right, following a pathway 62 WALKS IN HEREFORDSHIRE. through two fields, and then by a path leaving it at right angles on the left. This path runs up through a beautiful wood, into a meadow, cross this to the right, and through a wicket gate into the wood again. The path, a well-kept one, called Bicknor Walks, leads straight to the Yat ; every now and then side paths will be met with on the right hand, running on to jutting-out rocks which overhang the river. These are the Coldwcll Rocks, and from them the most beautiful views are exposed to the gaze of the delighted beholder. About midway is a good spring of water, a capital place for lunch. The pathway comes out at a wicket gate close to the top of the Yat, about one hundred yards from which are the remains of a Roman entrenchment ; to visit this, pass through the opposite wicket gate and take the right hand path. On coming through the first wicket gate from the Bicknor Walks, turn to the right to the top of the Yat. The Railway Station is just below, and the way down can- not very well be missed. The best road goes beyond the Station towards Monmouth, and then returns ; the other, a shorter but much steeper path, brings the pedestrian down nearer the tunnel. At the Station is a refreshment house, where beds may be had ; and at the Ferry Inn, a quarter of a mile higher up, capital accommodation can be obtained. There is a path to the Yat along the river side, by trespassing here and there upon the railway, and when the tunnel is passed, turning round by some cottages to the top of the Yat ; this route, however, is not recommended, the preceding one being much the more preferable. The tourist, in going up or down the river, is not recommended to follow the great bend round by Whitchurch and Huntsham, as the route is uninteresting, while the walk over the Coldwell Rocks and WALKS IN HEREFORDSHIRE. 63 the Yat is perhaps the most beautiful in the whole course of the Wye. Should he, however, wish to do so, and if the right bank of the river be taken, it will be necessary to go to Huntsham, and cross at the ferry (see Kerne Bridge to Symonds Yat). This route is five and a quarter miles from Lydbrook, and the route by the left bank through Whitchurch is five and three-quarter miles. In a clump of trees by the side of the river, opposite Coldwell Rocks, may be seen a monument erected to the memory of a youth who was drowned there years ago, upon which is a long inscription too full to be given here. Symonds Yat to Lydbrook Station, over the Coldwell Rocks, two and a half miles. The tourist is strongly advised not to omit this lovely walk. Pass through the wicket gate at the top of the Yat, keeping the path nearest the river ; on coming out into a meadow, cross the stile into the path which leads into the wood again on the lower side to the left ; this path is very steep and leads to another in a field below, follow this to the right until you come into a lane by a cottage, keep round to the left and the Station will soon be reached. Symonds Yat to Lydbrook Station, by the river side, two and a half miles. Take the cart road towards Huntsham, but at the first group of cottages, turn to the right and go down the steep path to the river, where the track may be followed to the Station, or to Lydbrook, three-quarters of a mile further on. Symonds Vat to Monmouth (five miles), by the river side. 64 WALKS IN HEREFORDSHIRE. Cross the ferry near the Station. The path, a good one, runs a good deal higher than the river. Down amongst some fir trees by the river, are seen the remains of the New Weir Iron Works, long since dismantled. Three-quarters of a mile further on, to the right of the path, is a dripping well, where masses of calcareous matter have been formed by the water. Opposite the keeper's lodge, where a boat is kept, is a cave of some considerable dimensions ; a guide to this can be procured from the refreshment house at the Yat, as the pro- prietor of that establishment has now made a show-place of it. There are many of these holes about the Cliffs, most of them inaccessible. To return to our route, however, the path, overhung with trees, keeps close to the river under the cliffs of the Great Doward, called " The Seven Sisters," and then the Little Doward is passed. On the top of this hill is a very perfect British camp, and also an iron tower, from which a fine view may be had ; but as the whole of the hill is private ground, permission should be obtained from the keeper at the cottage close to the river before commencing the ascent. In a hollow under the Little Doward is seen one of the most beautifully situated mansions on the Wye, called "The Hyatt Leys." The path here soon comes out into the turnpike road, but by far the most pleasant way is along the river side, through the graveyard of the delightful little Church at Dixon, from whence Monmouth is soon reached Symonds Yat to Monmouth, over the Great Doward. Four and three-quarter miles. Cross the ferry near the Station, and turn to the left, behind the private house with a balcony to it ; the pathway is just above the stone wall, and leads into the wood through WALKS IN HEREFORDSHIRE. 65 a gate; keep the upper path, and when past some mine holes, turn to the right Take the main path, which skirts the wood for some distance, and when out in the open between hedges, keep straight on until a quarry is reached, turn under it to the left, and pass through an iron gate. The rocks on the left are full of " holes," the last one, called " King Arthur's Hall," is a few yards from the main path, and has a trackway leading to it. Some years since it was explored, and bones of hyenas, bears, and other animals long extinct in England, were found. Pass through a field into the wood again, and follow a very steep narrow path which branches off to the river side and leads to the "Fish House;" this is a good place for a camp out. The remainder of the way is now the same as that given in the last route. .Monmouth to Symonds Yat, over the Great Doward. Take cither the river side path, or the Ross road through Dixon, and then the footpath through the churchyard, along the river side. When the " Fish House" is reached, turn up a path at right angles to the river, and when it comes out into another path, turn to the right. After passing through a field, the pathway is bounded on the right by a line of cliff- like rocks; at the commencement of which, a bye-path leads to " King Arthur's Hall." Keep straight on through an iron gate, and round the head of the quarry to the right; the path- way skirts the wood for some distance and then enters it, and if the pedestrian does not incline too much to the left, it will be difficult to miss it. When out in the open again, the ferry near the Station is seen close below. Should the pe- destrian choose to do so, he can follow the river side path all the way, which is perhaps the easiest and prettiest route. H 66 WALKS IN HEREFORDSHIRE. For further information relating to Monmouth and its vicinity, the visitor is referred to the local guide books. There is one walk, however, which although not within the district described in this work, ought not to be missed by the pedestrian; viz., from Monmouth on the Wye, to Newnham on the Severn, through the Forest of Dean, fourteen or fifteen miles. The road passes through Stanton, The Buckstone, Colcford, The Speech House, Cinderford, Little Dean, and Pleasant Stile, to Newnham. For this district the visitor is recommended to purchase "A Week in the Forest of Dean," published by J. Bellows, of Gloucester, a charming, accurate, and pleasant little guide to the vicinity. Ludlow to Hay Mill (Downton) and back. Twelve miles. Cross Ludford Bridge, and take the road turning sharp to the right (Wigmore Road), through the Whitcliff Wood. Just before the road begins to descend — two and a quarter miles from Ludlow — there is a cart-road on the right, with a wood on either side ; follow this road to the top of Bringe- wood Chase, where, though somewhat obscure, it keeps along the top of the ridge for about a mile, and then descends, forming a Z, to the Hay Mill. The pedestrian will be in no hurry to leave this beautiful spot. Follow the river a little further to Bow Bridge, which cross, and climb the path up the dingle to old Downton Church, now in a ruinous state. Returning from Hay Mill, take the path by the river on the Hereford side, past Downton Lodge, to Bringewood Forge Bridge, (the views along the path are delightful) turn up the bank to the right, and follow the cart-road to the right, until it comes out into another road, which leads direct to Ludlow. WALKS IN HEREFORDSHIRE. 67 The route may be varied by crossing Bringewood Forge Bridge, keeping to the right to Bromfield, and thence through Oakley Park to Ludlow. This would add a couple of miles to the walk. YVoofferton Station — Richard's Castle — High Vinnals — Mary Knoll Dingle — Ludlow. Nine miles. From the Station, take the road to the Salwey Arms Inn, cross the railway bridge, and keep to the left; follow the road for about two miles until it leads into the highway, then turn down to the left for about 100 yards, where a road on the right leads to Richard's Castle Church. Behind the churchyard, in a tangle of underwood, are the remains of Richard's Castle. A lane to the left of the churchyard leads to a spring of water, called Boney Well, which, it is said, throws up fish bones at certain times of the year. To resume the route, pass through the churchyard and cross the stile at the other side into a path kading across a field to a lane (the county boundary) ; follow this to a common, take the path leading almost due north (do not bear off to the left), when the upper boundary of Hay Park will soon be reached. Here the road is plain along the ridge, between fir plantations, as far as the High Vinnals, an elevation at the end of the ridge, the view from which, on a clear day, is very fine. From the summit, a steep footpath on the left leads to the head of the Mary Knoll 1 'ingle, a small track of broken moorland having to be crossed. Keep down the stream, and cross it at the boundary, when, a little way up the slope, a good pathway will be found leading through the Dingle. About a mile further on is a large quarry, a pathway on the left of which leads direct into the Ludlow road, one and a quarter miles from the town. 68 WALKS IN HEREFORDSHIRE. This lovely little valley is the scene of Milton's Comus, and to the Entomologist, Botanist, or Geologist, is of especial interest. Ludlow — Wigmore — Deerfold Forest — Kinsham — Ay- mestre — Kingsland, or YVoofferton. If possible, two days should be spent in walking through this beautiful and interesting district, taking the following routes and stopping the night at Wigmore. An alternative route, taking one day only, is given further on. First Day. Ludlow — Wigmore via Bringewood Chase and Hay Mill. Fourteen miles. Take the route for Hay Mill previously described, cross Bow Bridge, and follow the bank to a path which leads into the road, follow the road and take the first turn to the right, cross Crifton Ford Bridge, past Wigmore Grange into Wig- more. Another route, which is longer by about two miles, is by way of the Mary Knoll Dingle ; to go this way, leave Ludlow by the Richard's Castle road, and, one and a quarter miles distant, take a bye-path on the right which leads direct up the dingle, on the left bank of the stream. At the head of the valley, keep up the bank and cross over the stile into the Wigmore road, when the road along Bringewood Chase will be seen almost exactly opposite. Second Day. Wigmore — Deerfold Forest — Chapel Farm — Kinsham — Lye Pool — Aymestre — Kingsland, fifteen miles; or, Aymestre — Croft Ambery — Orleton and Woofferton. Seventeen miles. After seeing the Church and Castle at Wigmore, take one of the roads leading through Deerfold Forest If a visit WALKS IN HEREFORDSHIRE. 69 to Chapel Farm be desired, turn out of the village by the Police Station, over Green Hill, and at the bottom of the hill, directly after crossing the brook, is a track on the left which leads to the farm; from here a path leads into the road again. The main road through Deerfold Forest leaves Wigmore by Wigmore Hall, the destination aimed at being Kinsham, but in any case an ordnance map is indispensable, the roads here being somewhat complicated. When Kinsham is reached (by the main road), a path close to the entrance gate of Kinsham Court leads down to the dingle. The course of the Lugg may now be followed all the way to Aymestre, passing Lye Pool Bridge, five miles. At Aymestre, if going to Kingsland, turn to the right, cross the bridge and keep along the main road (the old Roman Stone Street), over the battle field of Mortimer's Cross to Kingsland Station, four miles. To go by the other route, across Croft Ambery to Woofferton, which is perhaps the most interesting, turn to the left for about 50 yards upon reaching the main road at Aymestre, when a pathway on the right will be seen, follow this on through the wood to the top of the ridge, turn to the left and follow the cart road along Aymestre Hill to Croft Ambery, — a British camp in good preservation, — from which extensive views may be had. Follow the path 'along the ridge over Whiteway Head and Ashley Moor to Orleton, a most inter- esting village, and thence to Woofferton. Berrington Station — Yarpole — Croft Ambery — Aymestre — Kinsham — Wigmore — Ludlow, twenty four miles; or, Ay- mestre — Lye Pool — Wigmore — Ludlow. Twenty miles. The following route is given for the tourist who can spare only one day for the journey. From Berrington take 70 WALKS IN HEREFORDSHIRE. the direct road to Yarpole, then to Cock Gate; pass through the lodge gate and up the carriage drive until quite near Croft Castle; then take the path on the right through the park along the side of the stream to the keeper's lodge, here bear a little to the left and make for the summit of the hill From the top, a track leads along the ridge in a S.W. direc- tion, and a mile along this a pathway strikes off to the right down the wood, and comes into the main road at Vatton Court, Aymestre : there is an Inn close to the bridge. From Aymestre follow the course of the Lugg, on its left bank, to Kinsham (five miles), where the river side path comes into a road ; turn sharp round to the right into the main road which leads to Lingen, and then to the right, through Deer- fold Forest to Wigmore. The shortest route from Wigmore to Ludlow— through " Long " Leinthall and Elton — should be taken, as probably there will not be much time to spare. If the shorter route be taken, turn off to the right at Lye Pool Bridge, which is two miles from Aymestre; take the first turn to the right, and the second to the left, this leads to Oakley Hill, and into a road which may be followed to Wig- more ; or the road may be crossed and the path through the wood held to ; this crosses another road and comes out at "Wigmore Castle. In taking this walk, allowance should be made for the country, which is very rough and uneven. The Malvern Hills and Eastnor. The Southern part of the Malvern range affords some delightful walks, more especially the beautifully wooded track round Eastnor and Midsummer Hill. Some interesting geo- logical rambles in this district are described in ''Old Stones" by Rev. W. S. Symonds. WALKS IN HEREFORDSHIRE. 7 1 Ledbury — Eastnor, via the Obelisk — Herefordshire Bea- con — The Wych — Colwall, ten miles ; or to the Worcester- shire Beacon and Great Malvern. Ten and a half miles. If Ledbury has not been visited, pass through it, and take the Eastnor road. If however the town has been seen, it will be better to leave the Station just beyond the water tank, by a path which leads up the bank. On the top of the bank keep to the right and into a lane, then to the left past some cottages, and across a field into a road ; cross this road and take one which leads down between steep banks, (called, locally, " Cut-Throat Lane,") and then straight on — with the telegraph wires on the left — by the road leading to Eastnor. When opposite the entrance to Eastnor Castle, follow the drive on the left for about half a mile, cross the dingle and the obelisk will be seen. Beyond the obelisk keep along the ridge, and leave the park by the keeper's cottage; the road passes through a wood, and then along the side of the hill. Soon after passing a cottage, where light refreshments may be had, turn up the side of the hill and keep along the ridge; if the road were adhered to, it would be difficult to ascend the Herefordshire Beacon. The camp is one of the largest, and perhaps the best specimen of a fortified British camp in the kingdom ; the trenches are very perfect, the lower one being three and three-quarter miles round. The Inn at the top of the pass, where the road crosses the range, is a good place to halt for refreshments. The Wych is a narrow pass, two and a quarter miles from the British Camp Inn, and the magnificent view of Worcestershire from the top is well worth a visit. From the Wych tl nl is easy, the walk to Colwall Station — one and a quarter miles— being rich in 72 WALKS IN HEREFORDSHIRE. scenery; or the top of the Worcestershire Beacon — the highest point of the range — may be gained by keeping along the ridge for a mile; from here is a direct descent into Great Malvern. Ledbury — Malvern ; taking in the Valley of the White- leaved Oak and Midsummer Hill. Thirteen miles. The district included in this walk and omitted in the last, is the most beautiful part of the Malverns, but the least known, probably on account of its distance from the railway. Start as in the last route, but when at the entrance to the gates of Eastnor Castle, keep along the Tewkesbury road for a mile, when the ruins of Bramsil Castle will be seen on the left ; a quarter of a mile further, a cart road leading to Fowlets farm must be taken, and after passing through several fields (keeping to the left), the Valley of the White-leaved Oak, which is a beautiful secluded dingle studded with cot- tages, will be reached. Take the road on the left at the end of the valley, which leads into the main road, and follow this in the direction of Ledbury. On the summit of the road, known as the "Hollybush Pass," is a large quarry, of especial interest to the geologist. On the right, at a short distance on, is a gate at the entrance to a quarry road, and close by on the opposite side, is a stile. The path leading up Mid- summer Hill commences here, but it will be worth while to walk a hundred yards along the old Roman road, (Wain Street) to examine its construction, which is here very perfect The path gradually ascends the side of the hill, but it is better perhaps to make one's way direct to the top, through gorse and fern. On the top of the hill is an interesting British camp, but not nearly so perfect as that at the Herefordshire Beacon. In descending the hill, keep well on the Herefordshire side, WALKS IN HEREFORDSHIRE 73 and cross the "Gullet," which lies between this hill and the next ; the path then lies up a lane to the keeper's lodge men- tioned in the former route, and the remainder of the journey is the same. The Black Mountains. Tell an inhabitant of Hereford that within sight of the City, and only half an hour's ride from it, is a mountain three- fourths the height of Snowdon, and you will probably astonish him. Yet such is the case, and it is strange that this grand group of mountains is almost unknown to the artist, being as it is, especially interesting, both to the geologist, as the greatest mass of Old Red Sandstone in England, and to the antiquary, as containing the ruins of the extensive Priory of Llanthony. Let the tourist, on a clear day, take his stand on the centre arch of the Wye Bridge at Hereford, and look up the river, and he will sec bounding the horizon, a long, level, dark range of mountains, making a sudden dip at the right edge. About midway along the range is a peak called the Pen-y-Cader-fawr, or "The Cader," which rises above the uniform level, and is the highest point of the range, viz., 2,630 feet above the level of the sea. To the left, another mountain may be seen breaking the outline ; this is l'en-alt- mawr, 2,361 feet high, and is the second highest point. To the observer, the range appears to be one ridge, but this is not the case, as there are really three running parallel to each other, and all of about the same height; the "Cader" is on the third range, and " Pen-alt " is the summit of an outlying spur beyond. The Herefordshire boundary runs along the top of the first ridge, but an isolated portion of the county, "The Fwthog," runs right into the mountains. The Stations 1 74 WALKS IN HEREFORDSHIRE. at Llanvihangel and Tandy on the Newport line, and I lay and Talgarth on the Brecon Railway, form good starting points for the traveller. l'andy to Llanthony Priory, over the mountains. Five miles. Take the road from the Station leading under the rail- way at the Inn, and at the cross roads pass through an avenue of lime trees, and then through another of Scotch firs. When opposite Trewyn house, turn to the right past some buildings and a saw pit, then through a large gate, and along a path through an iron wicket gate. Follow the path over a stile and through a gate into a lane ; keep on to the end of this lane, and then pass through the left of the three gates, and take the foot path up the side of the ploughed field, and through the gate at the top. The open mountain is now reached, and the path ascends its side at a steep angle, bearing a little to the right. The top of the ridge is gained near a cottage with a large stone wall enclosure; keep close to the wall and a cart- road will be found on the west side of the enclosure. This road must be followed along the centre of the ridge for about a mile ; the mountain then opens out into a large plateau, but the road must be maintained in spite of temptations to wander. A mile further, the mountain narrows to a ridge again, and a little way on, the Priory ruins will be seen in the valley on the left, while Herefordshire, with the Castle and Church of Longtown below in the foreground, stretches away on the right. A stone wall runs up from the valley on the left, and the path, which cannot easily be missed, turns down just above the wall ; follow this straight into a wood, turn through the gate on the left, and in a short time the Priory will be reached. WALKS IN HEREFORDSHIRE. 75 Llanvihangel to Llanthony Priory, via the Gaer. Seven and a half miles. A mountain walk affording totally distinct views from the Pandy route. From the Station, follow the Llanthony road for about one and a half miles to a small Inn, turn up the stony lane to the left, and ascend the hill to the Gaer, an ancient camp commanding the entrances to the Ewias and Grwynne valleys, and which, although of no great altitude, affords the best view of the mountain group. The road keeps along the summit of the ridge, and has a track turning off to the left at the narrowest part, leading to the " Cader," but keep to the right, and about three and a half miles from the Gaer, the mountain increases in height ; the higher part looking like a round hill is called Bal-mawr. At this point leave the track and turn to the right, across the heather to the head of a ravine about two hundred yards away, a short distance from which a pathway will be found on the left, above the stream, leading through a farm yard. Do not keep the main road, but pass through a gate on the right into a lane, then through a meadow by the side of the Honddhu, cross at the foot bridge, and the Priory is close at hand. Llanvihangel to Llanthony, up the valley. Seven miles. This is the best route for driving, as there is a good road along the valley for the entire distance. It is also a pretty- walk, but not to be compared with the one over the mountain from Pandy. A conveyance may be hired from the Inn at Llanvihangel. Llanvihangel to Pen-y-Cader. Ten miles. A stiff walk, only to be attempted by good pedestrians. From the Station, follow the Abergavenny road for about a 76 WALKS IN HEREFORDSHIRE. mile, cross a brook and take the first turn, over a gate, to the right, which leads up a cart road to a ruined farm house. Here, turn to the right, where a good path leads down to a stream running through a dense grove of chestnuts, cross the stream and follow the main path to Bettws. Here take the road on the right as far as the Globe Inn, where the road divides, keep to the right, and cross a small brook and a stone stile into a meadow, where the path crosses a bridge, called "Pont-Yspig" (there is another of the same name lower down). Keep straight up the lane, avoiding turns, to a cross road, and take the path in front up the mountain. When the open hill side is gained, the path ceases, so here the map and pocket compass should be called into requisition. Keep to the left of the elevation, called " Crwg-mawr," and after pass- ing the head of Cwm-Beusych, a path coming up from the left will be struck, which can be followed as long as it keeps to the top of the ridge, but the latter must be adhered to ; there is no path, and the rest of the route, about four miles, is often knee deep in heather. The conical peak of the " Cader" rises up somewhat suddenly, but is ascended without difficulty. The extent of the view of course depends upon the weather, but the near groups of mountains are very fine, and should the day be clear, the scene is one of impressive grandeur. Pen-y-Cader to Llanvihangel. Ten miles. Keep along the top of the ridge in a S.S.W. direction straight for the Sugar-loaf; when nearing the end of the ridge keep to the left of Disgulfa and Crwg-mawr, and descend by Peny-hoel-hir to Pont-Yspig. After crossing the bridge, follow the road past the Globe Inn, and then turn to the left to go WALKS IN HEREFORDSHIRE. 77 round Coal-pit hill. When out on the open hill, take the first turn to the right, and follow the path which leads past Pen-y-clawd direct to the Station. Llanvihangcl to Pen-y-Cader, via the Gaer. Ten miles. Keep along the Llanthony road to the Queen's Head Inn ; opposite this, turn up a stony lane which leads to the right of the Gaer Cam]), and continues along the ridge. About one and a half miles past the Gaer, near a cottage with a stone enclosure, the road divides ; keep to the left below the enclosure, and follow this road for about three and a half miles, it gradually becoming less distinct. Follow the stone wall, at the end of which, turn down the mountain stream on the left, and cross it at the stepping stones. The " Cader " is now directly opposite, and can easily be climbed. The best ascent appears to be between Nant-y-Cader and Cwm-y-how. Llanthony Priory to Pandy. Five miles. Pass through the wicket gate in the East wall of the Priory, and take the path sloping along the side of the hill, through a wood and a field, then along a cart road in an enclosure, through another wood and up the mountain side, until near the summit, where a stone wall turns short off to the right. The path, which is here rather obscure, bears off a little in the same direction as the wall, and runs along the centre of the ridge for about two miles, when a cottage with a stone wall enclosure is reached. Leave this on the right, and when near the end of the wall, take a steep path leading down the side, passing just above a yew tree (the only one in sight). The Station will then be seen in the valley, but the path leads straight to a large house with a detached dovecote, and it is best to follow it. After passing through a gate in a 78 WALKS IN HEREFORDSHIRE. stone wall nearly at the foot of the mountain, the path leads across a ploughed field into a lane, a little way down which, turn through the gate on the left, and the house above men- tioned will be reached. Follow the carriage drive down through an avenue of Scotch firs, and then through another of limes, into the road, when passing under the railway bridge the Station will be gained. Pandy to the " Cat's Back," returning along the top of the ridge, eighteen miles ; or, on to Hay. Seventeen miles. The " Cat's back " is a curious outlying spur of the range on the Herefordshire side. Take the main road from Pandy through Clodock and Longtown past the Castle, and about a mile beyond take the road on the left to Llanveyno. At Llan- veyno Church take the road on the right, and a few yards beyond the first farm house on the right, turn up a path to the left through a grove of holly trees ; this path leads to the foot of the hill. Climb up the "Rhiw" at the end of the ridge ■ — bearing to the right — as the sides beyond are much too steep to climb ; keep along the top of the ridge, which is exceedingly narrow, until it joins the main range ; turn back along this to Tandy, or, if Hay be the destination, make for the " Bwlch;" in either case there is no path, and the walking is rough. Pandy to Hay. Seventeen miles. The pedestrian may take either the valley route, past Llanthony Abbey and Capel-y-fyn, or, keep the mountain ridge the whole of the way. If the valley route be chosen, take the route to Llanthony already described, and then follow the main road up ]the valley. Three miles on is Capel- y-fyn, a little to the left of which, off the road, is the new WALKS IN HEREFORDSHIRE. 79 Monastery of Llanthony, founded by Father Ignatius a few years since. From Capel-y-fyn take the main road up the valley on the right, and then keep the road on the left which leads to the " Bwlch ;" the top of the pass is 1,700 feet above sea level. The mountain road, which runs on the right of the valley facing, must then be struck into, and two and a half miles on, to the right of a group of fir trees, Hen-alt is reached, when the enclosed lane must be followed. A short way down, turn along a footpath on the right, which leads through a beautiful wood to a cottage — Dan-y-fforest— and then Hay is in full sight. The path leads straight on through the fields, across a brook and a road into the town. Pandy to Hay riit Rhiw-wen. Twenty-four miles. A valley route, and the same as the last as far as Capel- y-fyn. Just before reaching the Church there, turn up the lane to the left past the new Monastery. The road follows the valley, and is a gradual incline. The Rhiw-wen pass is perhaps the finest in the district, and when the summit is reached, and a small tract of moor traversed, the mountain suddenly drops some 1,000 feet in a steep escarpment, and a panorama of fertile valley scenery extending from the Brecon Beacons to Credenhill lies at one's feet. The path winds down the side of the mountain, and then dies off into a wide common, from which it is difficult to describe an exact route ; so the pedes- trian with the aid of his map must make his way along bye paths to the village of l.lanigon, when the main road to Hay will be struck. Talgarth to Pcn-y-Cader. Seven and a quarter miles. The easiest and nearest route, but the first part by no mean 1 find, so that the map must be closely StUi 80 WALKS IN HEREFORDSHIRE. Leave the town by the Church, and take the road on the right. The destination to be enquired for is the " Rhos-fach " com- mon; cross this, and then make for the steep path leading up the mountain side, called " Rhiw-cwm-slab." The cross range or bluff which connects the ends of the three mountain ranges, is very steep towards Hay and Talgarth, and is traversed by three passes, " The Bwlch," " The Rhiw-wen," and " The Rhiw-cwm-slab." When the top of the pass is reached, turn off the path to the right along the mountain top, and after two and a half miles travelling in a south-westerly direction, the " Cader " will be reached. Pcn-y-Cader to Talgarth, seven and a quarter miles ; or, by Llangorse Lake. Thirteen miles. Descend into the Gnvynnc-fechan valley (not that at Llanthony) by Nant-y-Cader, cross the stream at the bottom, and a path will be found on the mountain side, a little higher up, -which must be followed to the right to the top of the ridge, where it divides, the path on the right leading direct into the main road for Talgarth. If it be determined to walk by way of Llangorse Lake, take the path on the left leading up the valley to the left of Mynydd Troed, consulting the map carefully. Keeping straight on, the path crosses the ridge which connects Mynydd Troed and Mynydd Llangorse, and then overlooks Llangorse and the Lake ; the descent is easy, and the main road from Llangorse to Talgarth — four miles — may be taken. The Grwynne-fechan is the most secluded of all the numerous valleys in this range, nothing to be seen but the bare mountain sides with the stream running through the valley. Llangorse Lake is the largest sheet of water in South Wales, and has the Brecon Beacons for a background. BOATING, " II is called Wye at Monmouth; but it is out of my pxaina what is the name of the other river, but 'tis all one, 'tis alike as my fingers is to my fingers, and there is Salmons in both." King Henry V. THE Wye is the only water in Herefordshire available for the boating man. Until very recently it was possible to come down the Severn to Gloucester, and then by means of the Hereford and Gloucester Canal to reach the Wye at Hereford, but that route is now closed. The Lugg is at no part of its course easily navigable, even in a canoe. The Tcme has been attempted from Ludlow by canoeists, but the journey was nearly as long on terra fir ma as on water ; the Wye, however, unsurpassed by any other English river for the beauty of its scenery, is the beau ideal of a boating river for all except those whose heart's delight it is to be towed. Its current consists of a series of deep pools and shallow streams, the latter having a rather rapid fall, and consequently none but the most energetic should J S2 BOATING. attempt to travel up stream. No specific directions can be given as to the best method to avoid going aground in com- ing down these streams, because the bed of the river is con- stantly being altered by floods ; the only general rule is to take the eye of the stream, that is, where the water appears to take the form of a V, as in so doing the deepest part of the river is traversed. With a slight fresh in the river however, say two feet above summer level, this difficulty disappears, but unless the tourist be a fair oarsman, it is perhaps the safest course to employ the services of a waterman who thoroughly understands the river. In speaking of the right or left bank of the river the true right and left is always meant. Every mile of the Wye, from Boughrood where it first becomes navigable, to Chepstow where it joins the Severn Sea, a distance of over one hundred miles, is full of interest. Although the highest possible starting point is at Boughrood, it is better to start from Glasbury, the Station there, as also at Hay, being near the river. The best boats on the river are furnished by Richard Jordan, at Hereford, who can pro- vide the tourist with anything floatable, from a small canoe to a boat capable of taking a party of twenty. Hobbs, of Ross, and Fuller, of Monmouth, also let out boats for hire. The approximate cost of boats from Hereford to Chepstow is as follows, the sums specified including carriage back to Hereford ; for canoes, £ i ; for boat and man for a party of five, £4 to £5. The following are the approximate distances between the various towns on the river: Glasbury to Hay, eight miles; Hay to Hereford, thirty four miles; Hereford to Ross, twenty eight miles; Ross to Monmouth, twenty two miles; and Mon- mouth to Chepstow, twenty miles. • !■■-: BOATING. 83 Should it be decided to come down from Glasbury or Hay to Hereford, boats can be sent on from the latter place by rail, and to avoid expense it is best to select such as will travel on a single carriage truck, the charge for which to either place is eight shillings. The trip is quite safe, although some exciting rapids and shallows require care. Should the tourist wish to make a two days' journey of it, he will find comfortable quarters at the " Lion," a public house about a quarter of a mile from Bredwardine bridge, on the right bank. Soon after passing this bridge, Moccas Court, the seat of the Rev. Sir G. H. Cornewall is passed on the right, and half a mile below the iron bridge leading into the Park, are Mon- nington Rocks. Here the river is divided by an island, and should a Utile excitement be wished for in shooting the left branch, it would be advisable to land a short distance above on the left bank, and make a survey of the falls to ascertain if there is sufficient water over the rocks; if however it is decided to go straight on, keep the island on the left. At the third wooded bank on the left (Bridge Sollers) after passing the rocks look out for a row of snags. From thence on to Hereford is plain sailing. The principal points of interest on the journey are Maesllwch Castle, Hay, Clifford Castle — the birth place of Fair Rosamund — Whitney Court, Meerbach (pronounced Murbage) Point, Bredwardine, where there is a Cromlech, Moccas Court, Brobury Scaur, Offa's Dyke at By- ford, very perfect, (on the left bank), The Weir, just below which are the remains of an old Roman bridge leading from Keiu hesier, the remains of the pier foundations being visible at low water, and the Weir Cliff. From Hereford to Chepstow. 84 BOATING. From Hereford, the journey to Chepstow is usually done in three days, stopping the first night at Ross, and the second at Monmouth. Should the tourist be pressed for time, it can be done in two days, the night being passed at Symonds Yat Boats can be returned to Hereford by road or rail. Starting from Jordan's boat-yard, on the right are some bark ricks where formerly stood St. Martin's Church, des- troyed at the siege of Hereford by the Scotch Army, 1642. Shooting under the arches of the old Wye bridge, the Bishop's Palace and garden are first passed on the left, and then the hall and garden of the College of Vicars Choral. Past the bank of the Castle Green is the Hereford General Infirmary, erected in 1776 by public subscription. A short distance below on the right is a small hamlet, buried in trees, called Putson, i.e., Puttcis Town, from St. Putta, Bishop of Hereford, who is said to have made this place his favourite residence ; thence on the same bank to Bullingham or Bullinghope (Belin's sloping plain) where is a large school conducted by the Roman Catholic Sisterhood of St. Vincent de Paul. Passing this, the river takes a sharp turn to the left, and runs under the Great Western Railway bridge ; directly after the bridge, a steep wooded bank is seen on the left, which is called the Vineyard, from having been formerly a vineyard attached to the See of Hereford. The river now opens out into a deep pool, on the left bank of which is Litley House ; at the end of the pool on the right is a very fine grove of Spanish chestnut trees, and here is Rotherwas, the seat of the Bodenham family, an old brick mansion of the Elizabethan period. About a mile BOATING. 85 further down is the village of Hampton Bishop, formerly a manor attached to the See of Hereford ; there is a very quiet comfortable Inn here, "The Carrots," where the angler would find good quarters. The river now takes a bend to the right, and going down the reach, the voyager gets a fine view of a wooded hill which rises almost from the water's edge, and gradually heightening, culminates in Dinedor Hill, where there is an old Roman camp. At the end of this reach the river bends again almost at a right angle, exposing a cliff of red clay and marl, and past Dinedor Court is another, about half a mile from which, lower down, the river is joined by the Lugg. On the left bank is Mordiford, celebrated in days of yore for its dragon, whose name still survives in Dragon's Lane, above which, embowered in trees, is seen Sufton Court, the seat of Richard Hereford, Esq., held for six centuries by the family of the present owners, by service of presenting the king with a pair of gilt spurs whenever he crossed Mordiford Bridge. The high wooded hills on the left are interesting to the geologist, as forming the Woolhope Valley of elevation. Passing under Fownhope bridge, the voyager soon sees on his right, about a mile away, Holme Lacy House, the seat of Sir H. Scudamore Stanhope, Bart. Lower down, on the same bank of the river, stands Holme Lacy Church, a Norman structure dedicated to St. Andrew, containing monuments of the Norfolk and Scudamore families. In the parsonage garden, and visible from the river, there is a very remarkable pear tree, which has been known to bear in a favourable season, fruit, yielding as much as 1,500 gallons of perry. 86 BOATING. Opposite, on the side of the hill, is the village of Fown- hope. The scenery here, although pretty, is comparatively flat, but, beyond the spot where the railway nearly touches the river, it begins to get bolder. After passing Ballingham and Caplar Hill, where large quarries are worked, the traveller arrives at a beautiful reach of water with high woods on the left Near the end of this pool is Carey Island, a succession of island which divides the river into two channels. In spite of the fact that the right channel appears to be the narrower and less feasible, the traveller must be careful to adopt this course instead of going to the left, where there are several weirs, and where it is in fact impossible to pass except with a flood. After the island, is the first railway bridge over the Wye since that at Hereford, and here a very pretty scene meets the gaze. Just over the hill on the left is Fawley, some distance on is the little village of King's Caple, where is a tumulus, and a little lower down is Pennoxtone, the seat of Sir E. C. Cockburn, Bart. Passing Pennoxtone, the river begins to assume a very picturesque aspect on account of its numerous windings. Sellack, on the right bank of the river, is soon reached, and beyond that, Baysham Court, the resi- dence of Thomas Duckham, Esq., M.P. for the county. Passing under the railway bridge the traveller finds him- self once more at Fawley, on the left bank; two miles further, on the same bank, How Caple is passed, a very pretty, pic- turesque spot The next village on the opposite bank is Foy, near which is Ingestone House, said to be the place where King James I. was entertained by Sergeant Hoskins with the twelve celebrated Morris Dancers, the average age of whom was ioo years. Nearly opposite is a place called Hole in the BOATING. $7 Wall, where are the remains of some ancient buildings. A short distance below, Brampton Abbots is passed, where was formerly a cell attached to the Cathedral Church of Glouces- ter ; soon after this is seen the " heaven directed " s,pire of Ross Church, famous for the beauty of its design, and very quickly Ross is reached. The principal Hotels at Ross are, "The Royal," "The Swan," "The King's Head" and "The George." Objects of interest : The Church, the Market House, and the Prospect. Leaving Ross, the first object of interest on the left is the Man of Ross Walk, then Wilton Bridge, facing the ruins of the Old Castle, built by the Greys in the time of Edward I., and now the property of Guy's Hospital. After about three miles of pleasant scenery, we come to Hill Court on the left, the central part of which is said to have been planned by the Man of Ross; not far beyond on the right is Pencraig, a very pretty spot And now one of the grandest views on the Wye meets the eye of the traveller, viz., the wooded heights of Goodrich, surmounted by the ruins of the Castle. The early history of this Castle is lost in obscurity, the first that we hear being a grant of it by King John to William Marshall, Earl of Pembroke. Erom the Marshalls it passed into the hands of the Valances, and from theirs in the reign of Edward II. to the Talbots, Earls of Shrewsbury, in whose hands it continued until 1617, when it passed to the Greys, Earls of Kent, in whose family it continued until 1740. During the Civil Wars of 1642 — 49 it was alternately held by the Royalists and Parliamentarians, during which time the living of Goodrich was held by the Rev. Thomas Swift, grand- father of the celebrated Dr. Jonathan Swift, Dean of St. 88 BOATING. Patrick's, Dublin. Just below is Flanesford Priory, formerly a Priory of Augustine Canons, founded in 1347 by Robert Talbot, the only remains of which are part of the Church, now used as a barn. The Wye here begins to change its character altogether, its banks become rugged and rocky, but still more or less wooded, and it is from Goodrich Castle that Wye scenery may be said properly to commence. About a mile below Goodrich is Kerne Bridge, built of stone, and crossing the river by a single span. The view from above the bridge, with the rocky hills for a background, makes a perfect picture ; a little farther on is the compara- tively ugly bridge by which the Ross and Monmouth Railway crosses the river. There is now a very wide bend round the Courtfield Estate, past Lydbrook on the left, to Welsh Bicknor Church on the right, just below which the railway line again crosses. The river now takes a comparatively straight course for about a mile and a half, through lovely scenery, with the Coldwell rocks on the left bank ; these are a succession of limestone rocks standing out in bold relief against a perpendicular height, appearing to overhang the river, and culminating in the far-famed Symonds Yat (or Gate). From this, the last and highest of the rocky points, the river glances to the right, and after making a bend of three miles, past the old-fashioned village of Whitchurch, conies back again to the other side of the hill, within 300 yards of the same spot. Here is the village of New Weir, where there is a good Inn, a refreshment house, a ferry and a railway Station (Symonds Vat), and the hills around are studded with numerous white cottages, the BOATING. 89 lights from which at night have a very pleasing effect There are many caves all about here in the limestone rocks, from which, flint implements, and the bones of long since extinct animals have been procured. The river now runs through a wooded gorge, with the Great and Little Doward Hills on the right ; directly after the latter is passed, a sharp bend to the left is made, and after about a mile and a half of tolerably straight course, Monmouth is reached. Before starting from Monmouth, it will be as well to inquire of the boatman at what time the tide will ebb, and how the shallows just below the bridge should be managed; this little difficulty having been surmounted, and a mile or so of river traversed, Penalt Court is seen on the right, and another mile lower down, the villages of Upper and Lower Redbrook. Here are some extensive iron works, as may be seen from the colour of the stream which joins the Wye. After winding between woods and hills for another four miles, and passing under a bridge which carries the turnpike road over the river, and near which is an old camp, Bigswear is reached, the highest point at which the tide is perceptible, and half a mile lower down is Llandogo ; four miles further is Brockweir on the left, and at a little distance from the right bank, about a mile below, is the little village of Tintern Parva. At the sound of this magic name, the traveller begins eagerly to look out for the Abbey, and before long, after a bend of about half a mile to the left, the grey stones of its wonderful ruins are seen on the right bank, rising apparently from the water's edge. Before leaving Tintern, the traveller should pay a visit to the Wyndcliff, about two miles nearer Chepstow : this is a magnificent rock overhanging the river, and from which a K 90 I'.OATING. grand view is obtained. Looking to the right over the Bristol Channel will be seen the English Coast stretching away almost into Devonshire, and] the Channel studded with numerous sails, with the sister islands, the Steep and Flat Holmes, lying opposite Weston-super-Mare, while to the front and left is Gloucestershire, and the ever-winding Wye. Half way down the rock is a cottage lined inside and out with moss, where a rest may be had for a modest sum. Returning to the boat, and leaving Tintern at the turn of the tide, the river flows past immense cliffs, rising first on the one side and then on the other, the most noticeable of which are the Wyndcliff, and some overhanging rocks called "The Twelve Apostles." The hand of the destroyer is how- ever unfortunately at work here, the rock being quarried, and immense quantities of stone sent off in barges, which come and go with every tide. Before reaching Chepstow (about seven miles from the Abbey) is Pearcefield, at which point commences a series of beautifully wooded views, terminating in an abrupt precipice, rising perpendicularly from the water, on the summit of which are perched the grim ruins of Chepstow Castle. SPORTING HEREFORDSHIRE, "Sir Roger has in his youth gone through the whole course of those rural diversions which the country abounds in." Spectator. ALTHOUGH the County may not blow so loud a trumpet in Sporting matters as its neighbours, Shropshire and Worcestershire, it is very little, if at all, behind them in all that appertains to sport, doing its part fairly, though unostentatiously as we propose to show ; while in some respects, especially in the fisheries, it un- doubtedly takes the lead of the majority of English counties. Commencing with Hunting — the sport of kings — it will be found that the county boasts of five packs of foxhounds and one of harriers, kennelled within its precincts. The two packs which are stationed near the City itself may be properly con- sidered the County packs, especially as they have sprung out of the Old Herefordshire hounds, which was thirty years ago the central and almost only pack in the county. 92 SPORTING HEREFORDSHIRE. Outside these, as it were, are the following packs, viz:— the Ledbury, on the East, with a country stretching away to Malvern and Upton-on-Severn ; the West Herefordshire, uniting with the Western district of the county, the lower portion of Radnorshire ; the Ludlow, taking a large slice of the Northern part of the county and uniting to it part of South Shropshire ; and the Ross Harriers on the South, dis- coursing their sweet music over the Ryelands. A short description of the packs and their countries may not be out of place here. The North Herefordshire is the most central, the kennels being at Whitecross, about a mile from the Cathedral. Their country stretches away northward to Leominster, where it joins the Ludlow ; Stockton Cross, Berrington (Lord Rodney's seat), Bockleton and Edwin's Wood being their boundary meets on that side ; passing south-east it touches the Ledbury country, Gaines, Canon Frome, and Hall Court being their limits there; from thence southward the Worcester and Hereford Railway is the boundary as far as Withington Station, when it crosses the line, taking in Lugwardine and Longworth before Hereford is again reached. From Here- ford on the south-western side, the Wye is the boundary as far as Monnington, where it joins the West Herefordshire. Crossing the river here, a line of country through Weobley to Pembridge is taken, from which place the Leominster and Kington Railway may be considered the boundary as far as Leominster. The country taken as a whole is a nice open one, especially their meets within six miles of Hereford on the Bromyard and Ledbury sides ; Bosley's Gorse, Brockhall Wood, Breinton, and Lugwardine are the home meets, where, SPORTING HEREFORDSHIRE. 93 if a fox is at home, a gallop over a good country is almost a certainty. The Stockton Cross, Docklow, and Edwin's Wood countries hold the best scent and best foxes as a rule, but are very hilly and not easy to get over. The woodland country is embraced in the big chain of woods which stretches from Hampton Court to Credenhill, and thence to Foxley, Gam- stone, and Ivington, and is a grand nursery for foxes, forming the back-bone of the country if well hunted, which however has seldom been the case of late years; Venn's Wood and Gorse, West Hide, Tancreds Walls, Canon Frome and Mars- ton Firs are also favourite coverts that seldom disappoint their friends. The country has a fair sprinkling of grass, intermixed with plough, and has very little game preserving that goes far enough to interfere with fox life, but in wet weather it rides very deep and holding. Hunting days, Mondays and Thurs- days. The South Herefordshire Hounds have their kennels at present at Bryngwyn (five miles from the city), the seat of the master, James Rankin, Esq., M.P. for Leominster, and they hunt a large tract of country. Crossing the Wye at Mordiford, four miles south of the city, the boundary extends from thence to Stoke Edith, Fown- hope and l'errystone on the east, and to Ross on the south, then turning westward it runs to Trebandy and Broad Oak, where it joins the Monmouthshire country, taking the river Monnow for its limit as far as Pontrilas. Still trending west- ward it runs on to Hacton and Chanston, where the West Herefordshire is joined, and then crossing the head of the Golden Valley to the Wye at Moccas, follows the south bank of that river to Mordiford. The country is a much lighter 94 SPORTINO HF.REFORDSHIRK. one to ride than the north, especially between Hereford and Ross, and although the woodlands are numerous, they are more dispersed than in the former country. The principal strongholds of the country are: Aconbury Hill and Aylestone Wood on the Ross side ; Baggalidiatt and Kentchurch on Monnow side; and Whitfield, Tymberlyne, Gilbert's Hill and Chanston on the west. The favourite meets are at Harewood End, Ruckhall, Rotherwas, Holme Lacy and St. Weonard's ; while those whose delight is woodland hunting, rejoice in Aconbury, Abbey Dore and Whitfield. Hunting days, Tues- days and Fridays. The Ledbury country is a merry little kingdom, lying between the North Herefordshire and the two Worcestershire packs, the nearest meet to Hereford being ten miles distant. The Malvern range is its eastern, and the Severn its southern boundary ; the vales of Newent and Upton are its cham- paign country, and the woodlands of Eastnor, Bosbury, Putley and May Hill are its strongholds, which, affording good holding for foxes, help to make the Ledbury a three-days-a- week country, excellently hunted. Hunting days, Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays. The West Herefordshire Hounds take a nice slice out of the county west of the North Herefordshire and Ludlow district, the nearest meets being Tin Hill and Sarnesfield, ten and eleven miles from the city respectively, and south of the Wye at Bredwardine. It stretches over a tolerably level country to Kington, where it joins Radnorshire on the dry ferny hills at Brilley, Huntington, Eywood and Wapley. The country has more grass, smaller coverts, and a lighter soil than that of the North Hereford ; but whilst it also contains SPORTING HEREFORDSHIRE. 95 more game, boasts of sporting occupiers who decline at any time to turn their backs on fox hunting. The best meets are Tin Hill, Sarnesfield, Cwmma Moor, Lynhales and Marston ; whilst a Black Mountain fox from Bredwardine on a good scenting day is a caution to those who are ambitious of an uphill run. The hunting days are Mondays and Fridays, and as the hounds have a cross of Welsh blood, for which their border country is well adapted, it gives them an additional charm in the eyes of many sportsmen. The Ludlow Hounds have the extreme northern part of the county and South Shropshire, with their kennels at the extreme edge of Herefordshire. They come to Yarpole, fifteen and a half miles from the city, but the valley of the Teme from Brampton Brian downwards is their especial delight, and the Shropshire side of the country contains the more favoured meets. Wigmore Rolls, Yatley, and the H igh Vinnals are their largest woodlands, but have a great drawback from the number of outlying deer they contain. A beautiful pack of hounds, and a cheery gentlemanlike field combine how- ever to make the Ludlow a very favourite [jack, hunting five days a fortnight. The Ross Harriers have a light and very pretty open undulating country, within a few miles of that picturesque town, and afford excellent sport to those who cannot afford the time to enjoy a day with the South Herefordshire or Ledbury. It will thus be seen that a devotee of hunting, living in or near Hereford, can hunt six days a week comfortably, taking train only on Wednesdays to Ledbury. On Mondays he has the North, and on Tuesdays the South Herefordshire 96 SPORTING HEREFORDSHIRE. packs ; on Wednesdays the Ledbury, Thursdays the North Herefordshire, Fridays the South or West Herefordshire, according to choice, and on Saturdays the Ludlow and Ross Harriers, alternate weeks. About ^3,000 a year is subscribed in the county to keep up these packs, the farmers to a man back them up, and the few good hunters which are bred in the districts command a ready sale. In Racing, despite the new rules of the Jockey Club, the city and county manage to keep alive their two days' meeting in the autumn, although sadly shorn of its former glories, and with a great lack of support from the landed gentry. The course, prettily situated about a mile from the town, is rather more than a mile round, oval in shape and quite flat ; while the steeplechase adjoining, is a good, natural, fair course, hav- ing its fences carved out of those which bound or intersect it. Of Shooting, it is scarcely necessary to say much. The county's reputation for pheasants is well known, the soil being admirably adapted for them, and it is only a question of money as to the number that can be reared on any estate in the county. Garnons a few years back bore away the palm for the strength of its bag, but latterly, since preservation has been given up there, Garnstone has taken its place ; next to which probably come Moccas, Whitfield, Downton and Ber- rington. Fishing is the strong point of Herefordshire ; indeed, un- less it be Yorkshire or Cumberland, we question what county can equal it. Taking the Wye first, with its meandering course of forty miles through the county, full of curling streams (more than half of which are salmon catches), and placid pools, the angler will indeed be hard to please, who SPORTING HEREFORDSHIRE. 97 cannot obtain sport in his own particular branch, whether it be the keen salmon angler, who may follow his favourite sport from the fifteenth of March to the first of November, the trout and grayling fisher, or the bottom fisher who can amuse himself with the pike, perch, and other coarse fish ; for there is hardly any member of the finny tribe, that inhabits the fresh waters of this Island, but finds a home in the Wye. The best salmon fishing for rod and line is probably between Bredwardine and Hay, where are some splendid catches which always hold fish. The Lugg enters the county at Presteign, and flowing from thence to Leominster in an easterly direction, turns due south and empties itself into the Wye at Mordiford, four miles below Hereford. In its upper reaches, from Presteign to Kingsland, it is a magnificent stream for both trout and grayling, the Kinsham, Shobdon, and Croft waters being superb. Below Leominster it becomes more of a grayling river, and affords good sport in the autumn ; at Hereford, when the water is low, some first rate sport may be had between Moreton and Hampton bridges. The Teme at Brampton Brian, Leintwardine, and Down- ton, surpasses even the Lugg as a grayling stream, the Leint- wardine Club water being considered, and justly so, the best in England. The Dore, in the Golden Valley, is not very promising to look at, but to one who can bush fish, it will yield a good basket at any time, the fish being remarkably handsome as well as fine flavoured, while in the May-fly season the holding capacities of a basket are severely tested. Its neighbour the Monnow, is a very fine trouting stream, running through some 1. 98 SPORTING HEREFORDSHIRE. lovely scenery ; the Pandy, Kentchurch, and Oldcastle waters being extremely good. The Arrow, rising in Radnorshire enters the county at Kington, and flowing thence past Pembridge, Eardisland, and Monkland, joins the Lugg about two miles below Leominster. The fish come into season here earlier than in any other part of the county, the trout are very good, and a day's grayling fishing on the Stanton water is one not to be easily forgotten. Besides these, the H indwell, Leddon and Frome afford a good day's sport ; and most of the smaller brooks in the county contain a good head of fish. There is however very little free water in Herefordshire, but not much difficulty will be experienced in either getting a day's leave from the riparian owners, or renting fishing, if desired. It may perhaps be not amiss to give a list of the favourite flies in use amongst the Herefordshire anglers : for salmon, the Butcher, Jock Scott, silver and blue Doctors, with a lemon color bodied fly, thickly hackled with a blue dun cock's hackle and turkey or peacock wing, will, if made of two or three sizes to suit the water, be found sufficient ; for trout, the February red, March brown, blue dun, Coch-y-bonddhu, iron blue, gravel bed, Grannom, yellow dun, May fly, alder, olive, August, September, and whirling duns, willows and red pal- mer, dressed on No. 7 to 10 hooks, will be found sufficient; and if to these be added, for the especial benefit of the grayling, the quill gnat, red and olive quills, red and black ants, and the tag-tail, he must indeed be a poor hand who cannot kill fish at any time. Cricket, the king of games, meets with very fair support in the county; the Club has laid out a great deal of money on its grounds at Widemarsh, near the city, and each year sees SPORTING HEREFORDSHIRE. 99 fresh aspirants from our public Schools and Universities come forward to assist in fighting the battles of the county against its neighbours, the Marylebone Club, and others, with vary- ing success, and to the Stanhope family, especially, has the county been indebted during the last thirty years, for its un- varying support of County Cricket. The Cathedral School has just laid out a new ground of its own at Wye side, under Broomy hilL Archery is another specialty of Herefordshire that de- serves mention. The County Club is one of the best sustained in England, always holding two meetings every year at some chosen spot, generally the seat of one of the county magnates who is hospitably inclined, the Club sharing the expense of the entertainment with him, and the whole generally winding up with a ball. Besides this, there are the Teme-side archers, with their head quarters in the grand old Castle of Ludlow, the Ross and Archenfield Society, and the Hay and Wye-side Archery and Lawn Tennis Club, all excellent means of pro- moting amusement and sociability during the summer months. In Boating, Herefordshire can hardly boast so much as the attractions of the Wye deserve. The journey down that beautiful river has been described before, so that it will be needless to recapitulate. At Hereford, a regatta is held about every three years, not nearly often enough. The course from Belmont to Wye bridge is a very fine one, as good as that at Henley, but about one hundred yards shorter; almost straight, with smooth even water, free from weeds; it is fit for a Gasper to take his breathings over. Coursing, which has well nigh been forgotten, is a Sport for which the county has long been famous, and which as long IOO SPORTING HEREFORDSHIRE. as the name of Rackster is remembered, will have its existence in it. Those celebrated R's are so well kept up by Mr. Hay- wood of Blakemere, that more than once the Waterloo Cup has almost fallen to the lot of Herefordshire, and we trust the ambition may yet be gratified. To a lover of coursing, the Bredwardine meadows are a paradise ; hares are strictly pre- served by the Rev. Sir George Cornewall, and some of the finest trials in England are witnessed there every November, the strength of the Blakemere kennel ensuring a good class of dog. Monnington, Yazor, Holme Lacy, Belmont, and Shobdon, are scenes of a good day's coursing in the season ; and if only owners and occupiers will pull together to pre- serve the hares, there need not be any fear of these places becoming barren in times to come. GEOLOGICAL RAMBLES, There rolls the deep where grew the tree, O earth, what changes hast thou seen ! There, where the long street roars, hath been The stillness of the central sea. Tennyson. ^\ EFORR starting on the following rambles, the visitor l\ is strongly recommended to provide himself with -^ provisions, as the country is very wild, the roads in some places bad, and refreshments extremely difficult to pro- cure ; he should also supply himself with an ordnance map of the district, geologically coloured, which will be a great help to him on the various excursions. No. I. Backbury Hill — Dormington Wood — Perton — Stoke Edith. Ten miles. Start from Hereford by the Gloucester road, and near the second milestone, is a small brick house, called " Kertch Cot- tage," exactly opposite which, turn across the fields through an orchard, and follow the footpath — which crosses first the river Lugg at Ham])ton bridge, and then the river l-'rome a little 102 GEOLOGICAL RAMBLES. higher up — through Larport lane, noticing the transition from the Red Marls to the Upper Ludlow. Ascend Backbury hill, a mass of Aymestre and Lower Ludlow rock ; many fossils may be found here, and the view from the hill is very fine. At Dormington wood, the Wenlock limestone will be seen to be broken sharply off, and the valley of Wenlock shale, with its occasional low hills, ceases when the line of the Mordiford fault is reached. From Dormington wood quarry, where plenty of Wenlock corals may be obtained, take the road to the north- west, and at the farm house turn down the hill to Perton ; on the way down some good exposures of Aymestre and Upper Ludlow rock will be passed. At Perton, in a small quarry by the road side, may be clearly traced the Downton limestone, with its carbonaceous layers resting on the Upper Ludlow. A walk from thence of about one mile and a half will bring the traveller to Stoke Edith Station. No. II. Withington— West Hide— Shucknall Hill— Wil- croft — Hagley — Tupsley. Nine miles. Proceed by train to Withington Station, and walk from thence to West Hide, where the quarries of Aymestre lime- stone will reward the searcher. Cross Shucknall Hill, a mass of Ludlow rock that has apparently been forced up through a fissure in the Old Red Sandstone, and examine well the large quarry there, in the debris of which may generally be found plenty of Phacops caudatus. Walk down the lane to Shuck- nall Farm, where there is another quarry, and then turn back to Wilcroft, where are some very fine high level gravel beds. At a short distance from here is a quarry, called Lowe's Hill quarry, in which a mass of greenstone — thrown up by volcanic agency in the same manner as that at Shucknall — has been GEOLOGICAL RAMBLES. I03 cut through. Cross the park to Hagley Dome, about one hundred yards to the west of Hagley House, where, in an old quarry will he seen the Upper Ludlow and the Downton Sand- stone, with their characteristic fossils protruding through the Old Red Sandstone. Return through Tupsley to Hereford. No. III. Stoke Edith — Eastwood — Durlow Common — Hazle— Seager Hill— Hooper's Oak — Winslow Mill — Wool- hope — Mordiford. Seventeen miles. About twenty minutes' walk from Stoke Edith Station will take the traveller to the corner of Eastwood. Take the lane on the right to Durlow Common and Hazle, noticing on the way the sections of the Upper Ludlow rock, which are ex- posed. Ascend Seager Hill, a mass of Aymestre rock, and continue the walk until a break in the hill is reached, called Putley Cock Shoot ; near here is an old quarry rich in fossils, and the result of a landslip which occured about 1575, men- tioned by Camden, may also be noticed. Descending the hill past Hooper's Oak and Winslow Mill to W'oolhope, the Upper Ludlow limestone will again be seen. After passing the Church, turn up to the right across Broad- moor Common and through the Haugh Wood, (locally known as Half Wood) which is an exposure of the Upper Llandovery. From here the Scutterdine quarries may be visited ; they are always being worked, and are tolerably rich in fossils belonging to the Woolhope limestone ; thence to Mordiford, where the breccia and dlbris will repay looking over. From Mordiford, a four mile walk to Hereford. No. IV. Mordiford— Marion's II ill— Old Sufton— Priors' Court— Dormington — Su>ke Edith Ten miles. 104 GEOLOGICAL RAMBLES. Walk to Mordiford, and from there ascend Marion's Hill, where are some good exposures of the Aymestre limestone; then to Old Sufton, where the Upper Ludlow beds are seen dipping down and overhanging the road. Keep along the road through Mordiford to Mordiford Frome and Priors' Court, where some good specimens of Upper Ludlow rocks may be seen in the quarry, and notice on the way the passage beds of Downton Sandstone along the roadside. Thence on to Dormington to the landslip. From here walk through Stoke Edith Park to the Railway Station. No. V. Fawley — How Caple— Yatton — Welch Court — Gamage Ford — Bodenham — Much Marcle — Ridge Hill — Woolhope — Rudge End — Nupend — Fownhope — Holme Lacy. Twenty one miles. From Fawley Station walk to How Caple and cross the hills to the New Church at Yatton, and then down the hill to Welch Court, where some exposures of the Upper Ludlow may be seen in the road. Take the first turning on the left, which will lead to Gamage Ford, where the Ludlow bone bed (abounding with fish and crustacean remains, and the round spore cases named by Sir W. Hooker, Pachytheca splicerica,) may be easily traced. From here proceed along the New Ledbury Road to Bodenham, where is a quarry in which are both the Upper Ludlow and Aymestre rocks, thence to Much Marcle and up the hill by the Old Ross Road, where the Downton and Upper Ludlow are to be seen in contact. Take the turning on the right at the crossing, and then to the left again and mount the Ridge Hill, from the top of which a very fine view of the whole district is visible. The Silurian and Devonian formations will be easily distinguished, if there GEOLOGICAL RAMBLES. 105 happen to be any ploughed land about at the time of the visit. On the east side of the hill is a very good quarry of Aymestre rock. Turn down the hill and examine the quarry at the Hyde, which is very rich in corals of the Wenlock formation. Cross to Woolhope and go round the south side of the Dome, just beyond Rudge end, where is a small quarry by the road side; turn off to Nupend, where are some fair exposures of the Wenlock shale, and in a quarry near the mill some very good fossils may be obtained. From here to Fownhope, notice the great and many disturbances of the strata. Take the road to Hereford as far as the toll bridge, where the beds may be seen masked with rough gravel. Cross the toll bridge, to Holme Lacy Station. No. VI. Mitcheldean Road — May Hill — Newent — Gorst- ley Common — Linton Wood — Tedgewood — Upton Court — Mulhampton Farm — Perrystone — How Caple — P'awley. Twenty miles. A walk of three miles from Mitcheldean Road Station will take the traveller to the top of May Hill, which is the limit of the Silurian upheaval. From the top a most magnificent view is obtainable. After admiring this, turn down towards Newent for the outlying coal measures. Thence to Gorstley Common, where near the Fishpools some good exposures of the Dbwnton Sandstone and Upper Ludlow rocks will be seen. It is at this place that a broken anticlinal ridge runs for about five miles in a north-western direction. From Gorstley Com- mon walk to Linton Wood, where at the Pound quarries is a very fine exposure of the Aymestre limestone, then through the wood to Tedgewood and Upton Court, and across the fields to Mulhampton farm, from which place a good view of M 106 GEOLOGICAL RAMBLES. the ridge mentioned above may be obtained. Walk along the ridge to Perrystone, then turn down the avenue into the turn- pike road, and through How Caple to Fawley Station. No. VII. Stoke Edith — Botany Bay — Checkley Common — Mordiford. Ten miles. Through Stoke Edith Park to the Stoke Cock Shoot, and turn in a south-eastern direction down the Lower Ludlow valley to Botany Bay, which is a break in the Wenlock ridge, where are some old limestone quarries very rich in fossils. Take the road across Checkley Common, where are a few exposures of the Wenlock shale, then down the Pentlow brook to Mordiford, and from thence to Hereford. A few good fossils may be obtained from the bed of the brook when it is low. No. VIII. . Holme Lacy — Fownhope — Nupend — Buckenhill — Sollers Hope — Lindels — Oldbury Hill— Seager Hill — Tarrington Common — Stoke Edith. Fourteen miles. Cross the toll bridge at Holme Lacy to Fownhope, and up the road by Fownhope Court to Nupend, where, near the Mill, is a very good quarry of Aymestre rock. Turn along the ridge in a south-easterly direction to Buckenhill, where some very good exposures will be seen by the way, and through Sollers Hope to Lindels, where is a quarry with a good many fossils. Here the Aymestre rock will be seen queezed out by a fault, and the two ridges of Wenlock limestone meet with many exposures, showing dips in all directions at very acute angles. Thence up Oldbury Hill, along the ridge to Seager Hill and down Tarrington Common to Stoke Edith Station. CYCLING. " Mark what I say : attend me where I wheel.' Troilus and Crcssida. I I^ERKFORDSHIRE roads are not especially favourable ■\ \ for bicycle and tricycle riders, the country being on r r the whole hilly and the roads rather heavy; in this respect they compare unfavourably with Radnorshire and Brecon highways. Only the routes most likely to be required are given, taking, when possible, Hereford as a centre. Hereford to Ross, via Much Birch and Harewood End, fourteen and a half miles. The hill at Harewood End requires care in descending towards Ross. Hereford to Ross, via Aconbury and Hoarwithy, twelve miles. A very hilly road; the hill at Hoarwithy being es- pecially dangerous. Hereford to Gloucester, via Ross and Huntley, thirty twa miles. The shortest, but not the best road. Hereford to Gloucester, via Stoke Edith, Dymock, and Newent, thirty five miles. Quickest and best road. 108 CYCLING. Hereford to Ledbury, fourteen and a half miles. Hilly for the first part; a very awkward descent at Tupsley, one and a half miles from Hereford. Hereford to Bromyard, fourteen miles. A bad road. Stoke Lacy Hill must not be ridden either way, nor the de- scent into Bromyard. Hereford to Malvern, via Ledbury, Colwall and British Camp, twenty four miles. At Colwall take the right hand road From Ledbury to Malvern is a most delightful ride, but the descent on either side of the Malvern ridge from British Camp is dangerous, Chance's Pitch, on the Herefordshire side, where there is a Bicycle Union danger-board, being especially so, and must not be ridden. Hereford to Worcester, via Malvern, thirty two miles. As preceding route to Malvern. From Malvern to Worcester a straight road. Hereford to Worcester, 77V? Newtown, Froom's Hill and Cradley, thirty miles. Froom's Hill is dangerous, and the descent on the Herefordshire side must not be ridden. Hereford to Leominster, via Holmer, Wellington and Dinmore Hill, twelve and a half miles. A good road, the hill can be ridden, Hereford side the steepest. Hereford to Ludlow, vid Leominster, Berrington and Brimfield, twenty three and a half miles. The best road. Hereford to Ludlow, vid Leominster, Orleton and Richard's Castle, twenty one and a half miles. Indifferent road, dangerous hill at Richard's Castle. In leaving Ludlow, the descent out of the town should not be ridden. CYCLING. 109 Hereford to Monmouth, via St. Weonards, eighteen miles. A bad road, with a dangerous hill just beyond St. Weonards. Hereford to Monmouth, vid Harewood End, Marstow and Whitchurch, twenty miles. Good road, and much quicker than vid St. Weonards. In coming back, Whitchurch Hill is dangerous on the Hereford side, and the Callow Pitch, three and a half miles from Hereford, requires care. Hereford to Hay, vid Bredwardine, nineteen miles. Shortest route, latter part very hilly. Hereford to Hay, vid Lelton and Whitney, twenty miles. Best and quickest route. Tin Hill, going down into Letton, requires great care. The two roads are identical as far as Brobury, where the Bredwardine road branches off to the left. Hereford to Kington, vid Credenhill, Sarnesfield and Lyonshall, nineteen miles. The shortest and worst road ; the descent into Lyonshall is dangerous, and the hill between that place and Kington requires some care both ways. Weobley is a little out of the way, but well worth a visit. Do not attempt the road to Hereford via Wormesley, it looks tempt- ing on the map, but is utterly bad. Hereford to Kington, vid Byford, Letton and Eardisley, twenty miles. Take the Hay road as far as Willersley, where turn to the right through Eardisley. At Byford, Offa's dyke will be crossed. One of the best runs in the county. From Kington the direct road for Aberystwith lies vid Walton, New Radnor, l'enybont, Llandrindod and Rhayader. Hereford to Abergavenny, via Pontrilas and l'andy, twenty four miles. Enquire the road at Pontrilas, but do not IIO CYCLING. be induced to cross Monmouth Cap. A fair road, no bad hills. Leominster to Bromyard, twelve miles. Hilly road, the descent into Bromyard should not be ridden. Leominster to Leintwardine, via Wigmore, eighteen miles. A good road. The Cyclist does not always remember Shakespeare's prophetic advice, " Let go thy hold when a great wheel runs down a hill, lest it break thy neck with following it." King Lear. and should he meet with a mishap to his machine, or require any further information respecting routes, &c, he should apply to Mr. A. Townsend, High Town, Hereford, who is the " Wheel Doctor " for this district, and Messrs. Preece, West Street, Leominster, and Meredith of Kington, act in a similar capacity in their respective towns. INDEX PAGE Abbey Dore ... 49, 04 Abel, John ... ... 6 Abergavenny ... ... 109 Earl of ... 13 & Newport Railway 23 Aberystwith ... ... 109 Above Eign ... ... 19 Aconbury .. ... 94, 107 Uill ... ... 94 Aix-la-Chapelle ... 25 All Saints' Church ... 17 Alms-houses ... .. 46 Altcrynnis ... ... 47 .Aim i. m1 Britons .. 1 Anthony, Alderman ... 16 Antiquaries, Society of ... 41 Ap Bice, John ... ... 12 Aquablanca, John de 27, 30 Peter „ 27, 31, 34 Archbishop of Canterbury 13 Archery ... ... 99 Arkwright, Captain H. ... 30 Arrow, Kiver ... 48, 49, 98 Ashley Moor ... ... 69 A~li|"-rton ... ... 47, 48 Athelstan ... ... 2, 26 Bishop of Hereford 2.% 40 Athens ... 6 Audley, Bishop ... 29 Chapel... 31! Aust ... ... 24 Aylestone Wood ... m Aymestro ... 44, 46, 48, 68, Oil, 70 _I Hill ... ... 69 Limestone 102, 108,104, 106 Baokbury Hill... 101. 102 Bacton ... ... 93 Baggalidiatt ... ... "I Bailey, Job., Esq., M.P. ... 6, 88 PAGB Baker, Mr. Thomas ... 10 Ballingham ... ... 86 Bal-mawT ... ... 75 Barons' Wars . . ... 3, 13 Barton ... ... 21, 23 Bath Street ... ... 11 Beauchamp, William E., of Abergavenny ... 13 Belmont ... 55, 99, 100 Bennett, Bishop ... 31 Berrington ... 46, 69, 92, 9G, 108 Station ... 09 . 25, 33 47, 76 51 33 18 . 61, 62 89 3 34 38 39 10 84 38 42 30 12, 14, 15 14 14, 46 12, 46 1(1 Mountains 22, 23, 44, 46, 64, 73, 80 Prince ... ... 13 Blakemere ... ... 100 Bine School Street ... 16 Boating ... ... 99 Bookleton ... ... 92 Bcthune, Robert de Bettwe -y-Coed... Bevan, Rev. W. L. Bewell Street ... Bicknor Walks... Bigswear Birch, Colonel ... Bishop Bi hop's Chair Cloisters Gate Street Palaco, Hereford Throne Bisse, Bishop ... Bi.-ll, Elizabeth Black Friars ' Church ' Cross ' Monastery .. ' Street 112 INDEX. Bodenhani Bodleian Library Bohun, Johanna de Boney Well ... Booth, Bishop ... Porch Borewe, Dean Bosbury Bosley's Gorse... Botany Bay Boughrood Bow Bridge Brampton Abbotts ■ Brian Bramsil Castle .. Braose, Bishop... Brasses Monumental Brecon Beacons Bredwardine 55, 83, 94, Breinton Brewster, Dr. ... Bridge Sellers ... Street ... Brilley Brinirield Bringewood Bridge ■ Chase Brinsop Court ... Bristol Channel British Camp Inn Broad Oak Street ... Broadmoor Common Brobury Scaur... Brockhall Wood Brockweir Bromfield Bromyard ... 48, Brooniy Hill . . Browning, Elizabeth B. Bryngwyn Buckenhill Buckstone, The Bullingham Bullinghope Burley, Sir John Butchers' Company Bwlch, The Bye Street Byfield Byford Court ... PAGE 104 35 32 67 ... 29, 30 30 32 47, 52, 94 92 106 82 51, 6G, 68 87 48, 95, 97 72 31 ... 32, 34 30,31, 32 ... 79, SO 95, 97, 100, 109 ... 55, 92 17 ... 55, 83 ... 21, 22 94 10S 51, 66, 67 51, 66, 68 46 90 71 93 ... 17, 21 103 109 ... 55, 83 92 89 67 92, 108, 110 21 50 93 ... 54, 106 66 84 81 14 6 78, 79, 80 10 34 55,109 83 Bysters" Gate ... By-the-WaU Street PAGE 10, 11, 13 18 Cader, The ... 73,75,76,77,80 Caerffawydd ... ... 1, 24 Canon Froine ... .. 92, 93 Canterbury, Archbishop of 13,28 Cantilupe, William ... 13 Bishop 13, 20, 27 Capella, Bishop .... 31 Capol-y-fyn ... ... 78, 79 CaplarH'ill ... 86 Cardiganshire ... ... 24 Carey Island ... ... 86 Carrots, The, Hampton Bishop 85 Castle Green Cathedral Close Cross Cat's Back, The Cattle Market .. Cemetery Chance's Pitch Chanston Chapel Farm ... Chapter House... Charles I. Charlton, Bishop Chaundler, Dean Checkley Common Chepstow Castle Choir, Cathedral Cinderford City and County Gaol Charity Trustees City Improvement Act Moat Walls Clare, St. Nicholas Clark, Rev. Samuel . . Clifford Castle.. Lord ... 5, 8, 9, 84 5,9 13 78 16 ... 21, 23 108 ... 93, 94 ... 68, 69 39 42 20, 30, 32 ... 29, 33 106 82, 83, 84, 89, 90 90 10, Clive, Bishop ... Lady Katharine Clodock Cloisters, Bishop's Vicar's Choral ... Clutton, Canon Coal-pit Hill ... Cockburn, Sir E. C, Bart, Cock Gate Coke, Bishop ... Coldwell Rocks Coleford College of Vicars Choral as 66 11 19 16 18 18, 22 14 38 . 55, 83 3 31 6 19, 47, 78 39 39 30 77 86 70 32 61, 62, 63 66 31, 39, M INDEX. 1 I ■ Colt Williams, E. W., Esq. Oolwal] ... ... 71 Station... Commercial Road Square Street Comus Coningsby Corporal Hospital 10, 12, Sir Thomas • Street 10, PAGE it; 10K 71 Dinedor 10, Coningsby 's Company of Old Servitors Cornewall, Kev. Sir G. H. Velters, Esq. .. Corn Exchange Corona Cottrell, Sir J. G. Coursing Court field Cranston & Co., Messrs. Credenhill Crifton Ford Bridge Croft, Ambery ... Castle Cross, ( 'athedral Crusades Crwg-mawr Crypt Cumberland Oorthose, Kobert Cusop Dingle ... Cut-throat Lane Cwm-Beusych ... -y-how Cwmma Moor... 79, 11 in 10 6x Hi 40 15 16 15 15 100 22 21 37 6 99 61, 88 20 93, 100 68 68, 69 70 13 12 76 26,32 96 11 54 71 76 77 96 Dan-yfforest ... Dawes, Dean ... Dean and I 'h:q>terof Hereford Windsor of Hereford Deanery, The ... Deerfold Forest 48, 68, Deinville, Sir John De la Barr, < 'anon 1 li'labere, Sir K. 1 le Lain, Bush Walter Denton, Alexander Anne .. Devereux, Sir John Devis Devonshire N 79 32 9, 28 17 27 42 69, 70 13 33 3:i 7, 11 7, 11 86 86 31 PAGE 46 - Hill . 86 Court... 86 Dingley, T. ... 27 Dinmore Hill ... 108 Disgulfa ... 76 Dispensary .. ... 11 Dixon ... 64 Docklow 93 Dog Hill ... 49 Domesday Book 2 Dore, River ... 97 Dormington ... 101, 102, 103, 104 Sandstone 102, 10:*, 104 Doward, The Great ... 23 Little ... 43 Downton 44, 9fi, 97 Church ... 51, 66 Lodge 66 Dragon's Lane, Mordiford 85 Drury Lane .. ... 35 Duck'ham, Thos., Esq., M.P. 8I» Hulas Brook ... ... 49 Durham, Simeon of .... 25 Cathedral 27 Durlow Common ... 103 Dymock ... .. 107 Eardisland ... ... 48, 98 Eardisley ... ... 109 Eastnor ... B0, 70, 71, 94 Castle ... 71,72 Eastwood ... ... 103 Eaton Bishop ... ... 30 Edgar Street ... ... 18 Edward the Confessor ... 2 Prince ... 3 I. ... 3,12,87 II. ... ... 13, 87 III. ... ... 29 IV. ... ... 39 VI. 39 42 Edwin's Wood"! ■■■ 92, 93 Egerton Bishop ... 41 Eign Brook ... 18 — Congregational Chape) Gate Street Elliott Elton English Bioknor Erbin, 1 taraint ap. Etli.lh.it 90 Ewias Harold 17, IS 17. IS 17, 18, 21, 23 34 70 01 21 38,40 49 2. 24, 114 INDEX. I'AGK Eywood ... .. 94 Fair Rosamund .. 83 Farrington, Elizabeth ... 30 Fawley ... 86, 101,105, 106 Court... ... 55 Fern Farm, Ashperton ... 48 Field, Bishop ... ... 30 Fish House ... ... 65 Fitz Osborn, Richard ... 2 Flanesford Priory ... 58,88 Flat Holmes ... ... 90 Foliot, Robert, Bishop ... 33 Forest of Dean ... 61, 66 Fossils, Silurian ... 22 Fountain's Abbey ... 27 Fowlet's Farm... ... 72 Fownhope 55, 85, 93, 104, 10;., 106 Foxhounds — Ledbury ... 94 Ludlow ... 94 North Herefordshire ... 92,94 South ... 93 West ... 92, 91 Foxley ... ... 93 Foy ... .. 86 France ... ... 17 Free Library and Museum 21, 22 Freer, Archdeacon ... 30 Freke, Robert .. . . 15 Friars, Grey ... ... 22 Street ... ... 18 The ... 22 Frome, Mordiford ... 104 The ... ... 98, 101 Froom's Hill ... ... 108 Fuller of Monmouth ... 82 Fwthog ... ... 73 Gader, The ... ... 47 Gaer Camp ... ... 47, 77 — -, The ... ... 75, 77 Gaines ... ... 92 Gainsborough ... ... 22 Gamage Ford ... ... 101 Garnons ... ... 96 Garnstone ... .. 93, 96 Garway ... ... 52 Gate House ... .. 16, 46 George III. ... ... 6 Gibbs ... ... 32 Gilbert, Bishop ... 42 Gilbert's Hill ... ... 94 Glasbury ... ... 82, 83 Globe Inn ... ... 76 Gloucester PAGE 7, 11, 81, 107 Gloucestershire Godiva Golden Valley . Banking Company Cathedral Goodrich Castle ( 'ourt 21 87 90 40 49 93 97 43, 56, 58, 59,' W>! 87 Gorstley Common Goss, Rev. John Gough Grammar School Grandisson, Peter Baron de Gray and Davison Great Doward ... Malvern Green Hill Grey Friars Greys. Furls of Kent Griffith, Prince of Wales. Grwynne-fechan Valley . Gunner's Lane, Hereford. Guy's Hospital Gwynnc, Nell ... Street 58, 87, 88 59 105 31 27 39, 42 32 34 <: i, c,:,, sy 71, 72 69 Hagley Hall Court Hampton r.Niitip Court 14 87 25 80 18 87 22 22 10i', 103 92 97, 101 55, 85 14, 16, 93 30, 31 94, 107 Hardman Harewood End Harold ... 2 II. ... ... 8 Harriers, Rosa... ... 95 Harris, Renatus ... 34 Harvey, John, Dean ... 33 Hastings, Battle of ... 11 John, Earl Pembroke 13 HaughWood ... ... 103 Hawes, Mr. W. ... 35 Haywood, Mr., of Blakemere 100 Hay, 23. 54, 74, 78, 79, 82, 83, 97, 109 and Wyeside Archers 99 Mill, Downton 51, 66. 68 Park ... .. 53, 07 Road ... ... 32 Hazle ... ... 103 Hen-alt ... ... 79 Henfordd ... ... 1 Henry I. ... ... 41 II. ... ... 3 III. ... ... 4,17 INDEX. 115 Henry VI. VIII. Herbert, Hon. Mrs. PAGE 39 12,27 35 Hereford and Gloucester Canal 81 Bishops of — 1, 4, 13, 18, 1!), 24, 25, 42 Bishop's Fee ... 4 Bishop's Palace ... 84 Canons of ... 41 Castle ... 2, 3, 8 Cathedral, 2, 13, 20, 21, 24, 25, 27, 28, 4L\ 1.". Close... • 41 School 42, 99 Statutes 42 City— 1, 2, 3, 4, 12, 13, 15, 18, 1!), 22, 2:i, 24, 25, 41, 42, 45, 46, 57, 58, 73, 81, 82, 83, 84, st;. 92, '.14, 95, 97, 103, 107, 108, 109, 110 and County Gaol 11 — Civil History . . 3 — Corporation ... 4 — County of ... 6,39 — Dean of ... 27,41 & Chapter of 9, 35, 12 — General Infirmary, 5, S, X4 — Hay and Brecon Railway .. 17, 18 Industrial Aid Society 11 Ladies' College ... 15 l;., Esq. ... 85 — Siege 01, hv Waller 3 Scotch Army 3,84 Synod at Times Use ... Herefordshire Beacon — , Pioturi Heylin Ili^'li Street Town Vinnals ... Hill Court Hillesden Hills, Mr. < rordon Hindu. 11. The Hoaruitliv Hobbs, of liosa Hole in the Wall Hollybuah Pass Holme Lacy, 0, 111, Ion, 101, 1(1 ,, Kll House ... 85 16 35 71,72 43 24 17, 21, 40 5, 10, 17, 21, 46 ... 67, 96 87 36 14 98 .. 65, L07 82 ... 86, -: 72 Holme Lacy Church Holmer Honddhu, River Hooper's Oak ... Hope End Hoskins, Sergeant Hospital, Lazarus Lingen's of St. Anthony Price's House of Commons How Caple ... 86, 104 Howell, Dda ... Hugo Hume, Joseph... Humphreys, Bishop Huntuurford, Bishop Hunt, James John Huntington Huntley Huntsham . . Ferry Hyatt Leys Hyde, The [gnatius, Father Infirmary, Hereford Ingestone House ... Ivin-'ton PAGE 85 52, 108 46, 75 103 50 86 17 17 17 17 39 , 105, 106 2 28 22 32 32 31 31 94 107 60, 62, 63 60 64 105 79 . 5, 8, 84 86 93 James I. ... 6, 14, 37, 86 John, King ... ... 87 John XXII. ... 28 Jordan, K., of Hereford ... 82 Kerapson, Capt. E. Eencheater Centchnrcb Corns Bridge ... 58, Kerry, Thomas Kerry's Almshouses King Arthur's Hall Street ... King's Acre Caple ... Kingsland 46, 49, Station Kington ... 49, 94 Kii^ham II, 46, 18, Court Knights' Hospitallers of St. John Templars Ladies' College 30 83 37, 94, 98 60, 61, 63, 88 10 10 65 ... 21, 22 17 86 54, 68, 69, 97 69 98, 109, 110 68, 69, 70, 97 69 15 15 ... 14, 15 16 n6 INDEX. Lady Arbour ... Chapel Lady lift Larport Lane ... Lazarus Hospital Lectern Ledbury 47, 49, 52, 71, Foxhounds - Leddon, The ... Leinthall, "Long" Leintwardine .. Leland ... 2, 8. Lemesi, Ralph de Leominster 19, 21, 50, Letton Leven, Earl of... Lewis, Sir G. C. Leys, The Lindels Lindsell, Bishop Lingen , John, Esq. Lingen's Hospital Linton Wood ... Lion, The, Bredwardine Litany Desk ... Litley House ... Little Dean Doward... Llandewibrefi ... Llandogo Llandrindod . . . Llangorse Lake Llanigon Llanthony — Abbey ■ Priory, 47, 73, PAGE 39 ... 26, 32 23 101 17 37 72, 95, 103 92, 94, 96 98 70 50, 97, 110 , 12, 27, 84 41 92, 97, 98, 108, 110 109 3 6, 7 53 106 33 ... 48, 70 19 ... 17, 19 105 83 37 84 66 ... 64, 89 24 89 109 80 80 79 26, 80 78 74, 75, 77 Llanveyno Church Llanvihangel 47, 74, 75, 76. Lochard, The Prfecentor . London Long Leinthall Longtown Castle Church Longworth Lonsdale Lords Marchers Losinga, Robert Lotharingia, Robert de Lower Redbrook Lowe's Hill Quarry 78 78 77 29 14 70 47,78 . 74, 78 74 92 6 3 2, 25, 33 25, 33 89 102 PAGE Lugwardine ... ... 46, 92 Ludford ... ... 51 Bridge ... 66 Ludlow, 44, 51, 52, 54, 06, 67, 68, 69, 81, 108 Castle ... 99 Foxhounds 92, 95, 96 Rocks, Lower ... 106 , Upper 10i, 103, 101, 105 Lugg, River, 44, 46, 48, 52, 69, 70, 81, 97, 9x, 101 Luntly Court ... Lydbrook Lye Pool Bridge Lynhales Lyonshall 52 60, 01, 63, 88 ... 68, 69 ... 69, 70 95 109 Maesllwch Castle ... 83 Maidenhead Inn ... 18 Malmsbury, William of ... 25 Malvern ... 72, 92, 108 Great... ... 71 Hills ... 23, 44, 70 Man of Ross Walk ... 87 Mapenore, Bishop ... 31 Mappa Mundi ... 33 Harden ... ... 24, 44 Marion's Hill ... ... lO.'i, 104 Market House, Rosa ... *7 Place, New ... 10 Marochetti, Baron ... 6 Marshall, W., Earl of Pembroke 87 Marston ... ... 95 Firs ... ... 93 Marstow ... ... 109 Mary Knoll Dingle ... 67, 68 Valley ... 51, 67 Marylebone Club ... 99 May Hill ... ... 94, 105 Maylord John ... 16 Street ... 16 Mayo, Bishop ... ... 29, 33 Meerbach Point 83 Melun, Robert de, Bishop 33 Mercia ... ... 25 Merewether, Dean ... 27, 32 Meyrick, Sir S. R. ... 56, 59 Midsummer Hill ... 70, 72 Milfrid, King of Mercia ... 25, 40 Milton .. ... 51, 68 Minor Canons ... ... 39 Mitcheldean ... 105 Moccas ... ... 93, 96 INDEX. "7 PAOS Moccas Court ... ... 83 Park ... 55 Monasteries, Dissolution of 12, 14 Monkland ... .. 98 Monkmoor Street ... 12 Monmouth, 23, 56, 57, 58, 59, 62, 63, 64, 85, 66, 81, 82, 84, 89, 10!) Cap ... 110 Monnington ... 59 Court House ... 55 — — Lych Gate ... 55 Rocks ... 83 Monnow River ... 93, 97 Moor, Farm ... ... 46 Moorhampton . ... 53 Mordiford, 85, 93, 97,102,103, 10 1, 106 Bridge ... 85 Dragon's Lane ... 85 Frorae ... 101 Moreton ... ... 97 Morgan, Canon ... 32 Mortimer, Lard ... 3 and Oxford, Earl of 8 Mortimer's Cross .. 69 , Battle of 3 Much Birch ... 107 Much Mansel ... ... 19 Much Marcle ... ... 101 Mulhampton Farm ... 105 Municipal Reform Act 4 Museum ... 21, 22 Mo-wave. Archbishop ... 31 Musical Festival ... 6 Mvnvdd-Llangorse .. 80 Troed ... 80 Nant-y-Cader ... 77, 80 Nawby, Battle of ... 3 National Provincial Banking Co. 21 Nave, Cathedral ... 36, 37 Nelson, Lord ... 9 Newent ... 94, 105, 107 New Market Street ... 16 Weir ... 55,88 Iron Works ... 64 Radnor ... 109 Newnham ... ... <'»''■ Newtown ... 108 12 88 Norfolk, I 'hades D., of ... 8 North Choir Aisle 31 East Transept .. 81,82 Herefordshire Hounds 20. 92 95, 96 Nicholas, Pope Nicholls, J. G. North Transept Nupend Oakley Park ... Offa Offa's Dyke ... Hill ... Oldbury Hill ... Oldcastle, Henry Old House Red Sandstone Sufton "Old Stones" ... ( hrgan, Cathedral Orleton , Adam de Ouseley, Sir F. G. Oxford and Mortimer, PAGE 30 104. 105, 106 55, 8.'f 67 1, 24 I, 109 70 106 41 5, 6, 10, 46 73 103, 104 70 34 35 52, 68, 69, 108 28, 33, 34 35 Earl of 8 35 , St. John's College Pandy 47, 74, 75, 77, 78, 79, 98, 109 Parliamentarian Struggle, 3, 9,22, 40 Pearcefield ... ... 90 Peckam. Archbishop of Canterbury ... ... 28 Pembridge ... 48, 52, 92, 98 , Sir Richard ... 36 Pembroke, Earl ... 13 Penalt Court ... ... 89 Pen-alt-mawr ... ... 73 Pencraig ... ... 87 Pennoxtone ... ... 86 Peutlow Brook ... 106 Penybont ... ... 109 Pen-y-Cader 75, 76, 77, 79, 80 — fawr ... 73 Clawd ... ... 77 Hoel-hir 76 Perrystone ... ... 93, 105 Perton ... ... 101. 102 IVt.n-hurch ... .. 49 Phelip,, .1. ... ... 31 Philips, Anne... 36 Richard 36 PhiMott, Rev. H. W. ... 33 Pickersgill ... ... 6 Pleasant Stile ... ... 66 Pontrilas ... 49,93,109 Pont-Yspig ... ... 76 l>ort6elda ... 13 Portway Inn ... ... 56 u-ii ... 46, 52, '.'7 Price. Mr. Wm. ... 19 Price's Hospital ... 17, 19 Primrose, Mr. George ... 18 n8 INDEX. Prior's Court ... Prospect, The, Ross Post Office Public Baths ... Pulpit Putley Cock Shoot Putson Putta's Town ... Quay Street Queen's Head Inn Rackster Radnorshire Hills Rankin, James, Esq., M.P, Redbrook, Upper Lower PAGE . 10.'!, 104 87 21 11 37 94 108 84 84 5,9 77 100 92, 94, 98 23 21,93 89 89 38 31 109 47, 79, 80 80 80 54 Reredos Reynelm, Bishop Rhayader Rhiw-wen, The -cwm-slab Rhos-fach Common Rhydspence Inn Richard's Castle 2, 44, 52, 53, G7, 108 Richard II. ... ... 3 Ridge Hill ... ... 104 River Arrow . . 48, 49, 98 Dore ... ... 97 — Honddhu ... 46, 75 Lugg, 44, 40, 48, 52, 69, 70, 81, 84, 97, 98, 101 Monnow ... 93, 97 Severn ... 66, 81, 94 Teine ... 44, 51, 81, 97 Wye— 1, 8, 43, 54, 57, 66, 81, 82, 86, 88, 89, 90, 92, 93, 94, 97, 99 Kocklands ... ... 60 Rodd. The ... ... 53 Roman Catholic Church ... 21 23, 53, 55, 57, 58, 59, ,82, 87, 93, 94, 107 and ArchenfieldArchers 99 Church - Harriers... Hotels Market House Prospect... Rotherwas Ruckhall Rudge End Rushout, Misses 87 92, 95, 96 87 87 87 ... 84, 94 94 ... 101,105 37 Salmon fishing flies ... Sarnesfield Saye and Sele, Lord Scotch Army ... Scott, Mr. , Sir G. C. Screen, Cathedral Scudamore, John - Lord Schools PAGE ... 96, 97 98 94, 95, 109 32 ... 22, 84 14 ... 36, 38 ... 37, 38 14 18 18 Scutterdine ... .. 103 Seager Hill ... ... 10H, 106 Sellack ... ... 86 Seven Sisters, The ... 64 Severn, River ... 66, 81, 94 Sea ... ... 82 Shelley, Mrs. Jane ... 19 Sherfield ... ... 10 Shinfield ... ... 28 Shirehall ... ... 5, 6, 7 Shobdon ... 14, 48, 97, 100 Shrine of St. Thomas .. 27 Shropshire ... ... 91 South ... 92, 95 Shucknall ... ... 102 Silurian Fossils ... 22 Simeon of Durham ... 25 Trustees .. 8 Skating Rink ... ... 17 Skidmore Art Company ... 37 Mr. ... .. 38 Smith, G. Townshend ... 34 Snodhill Castle ... 49 Snowdon ... ... 73 Society of Antiquaries ... 41 Sollers Hope ... ... 10C South Aisle of Nave ... 36 Choir Aisle ... 33 East Transept 32, 33, 39 ■ Herefordshire Hounds, 93, 95, 96 Transept ... 36 Speech House ... ... 61, 66 Stanbury, Bishop .. 29, 31 Stanhope, Sir H. S., Bart. 85 Stanner Rocks... ... 49 Stanton ... .... 66 St. Andrew'sChurch, Holme Lacy 85 — Anne's Chapel ... 26, 27 — Anthony, Hospital of ... 17 — Augustine ... ... 24 — Catharine's Chapel ... 41 — Ceadda ... ... 40 — David ... ... 40 INDEX. St. Edward ... - Ethelbert ... — Ethelbert's Hospital ■ Well — George — Giles Hospital — Guthlac, Priory of — Junes' Church — John, Knights of The Baptist PACK 40 25 5, 9 5, 9 40 5,7 7, 11, 12 5, 8 — John's College, Battersea Oxford — Hospital 15 32 30 35 15 Martin's Church 22, 28, 84 Mary, Church of ... 41 Magdalen's Chapel 41 Nicholas' Church ... 21, 22 Street ... 22 Owen's Street ... 7 Patrick's, Dublin ... 88 Peter, Abbey of, Gloucester 7, 11 Peter's Church, Hereford 5, 8, 11 - Street — Putta — Thomas de Cantilupe, Shrine of... 2! — Vincent de Paul — Wenefrida ... — Weonards ... — Xavier's Church si un Flour Mills Steep Holmes ... Stephen, King... Stockton Cross.. Stoke Edith, 6 84 ', 29, 30 84 40 94, 109 21 11 90 38 50, 92, 93 Lacy Stone Street Sufton Court ... Sngar-Loaf, The Sugwas Boat ... Sutton Swallowfield Swift, Dean ... Rev. Thos. Swinfield, Bishop Symonds, R. ... Rev. W. S. Win., Esq. Yat— 56, 60, 93,101,102,103,101, 106, 107 10* 69 85 76 20 55 1, 2, 24, 44 28 87 87 27, 28, 31, 33 27 70 12 63, 64, 65. SI, ss Talbot, 1!. ... ... 58, 88 . Kails of Shrewsbury 87 Talgarth Tancred's Walls Tarrington Taylor, Rev. J. R. G Taylor's Map of the Tedgewood Teme, ltiver ... side Archers Theatre Theseus, Temple of Thomas, Mr. James Tin Hill Tintern Abbey Parva.. Trebandy Trevenant, Bishop Ti \\ yn House... Trout Fishing ... Flies Tupsley Turgot Tweedie Twelve Apostles, The Tymberlyne Union Street ... Upper Kedbrook Upton Court ... — -on-Severn Urania Orishay Castle Usher, Archbishop "9 PAGE 74, 79, 80 93 106 35 City 41 105 44, 51, 81, 97 99 17 6 32 94, 95, 109 90 89 89 93 ... 28, 36 74 ... 96, 98 9H ... 103, 108 25 22 90 94 11 89 94 Ki., 92 16 49 24 balances, The ... ... 87 Valley of the White-leaved Oak 72 Wood-... ... 93 Gorse ... ... 93 Vere, William de, Bishop 20, 27, 33 Vicars Choral, College of . . . 31, 39 Cloister ... 26, 33 Victoria Street... ... 18 Vienna ... ... 17 Vineyard ... 84 Vowchurch ... 49 Wain Street ... ... 72 Wale- ... ... 1 , l irillith, Prince of... 25 Walford ... ... 59 Church ... ."'9 r, John ... ... IE Waller ... ... 3 Wall Street ... ... 17,18 INDEX. PACK 10!' 94 36 30, 31, 32 :i 31 21, 23 5:1 ,s:t 83 104 108 ;>o 88 53 10'-' 53, 92, 109 34 Westfaling, Bishop 30 West Herefordshire Hounds 92,94, 96 Walton Wapley Waring, Archdeacon Warrington Wars of the Roses Warton, Bishop Waterworks Wegnall, The ... Weir Cliff The Welch Court ... Wellington — Heath Welsh Bicknor Church Wenlock Limestone Weobley Church Hide Wes ton-super-mare Whitchurch Whitcliff Wood Whitecross Kennels Road — Street Whiteway Head Whitfield Whitney Bridge ■ Court ... 93, 10'^ 90 62, 88, 109 66 19, 20, 32, 92 17, 20 19 ... 21, 23 69 94, 96 109 :,.-, 83 ... 13, 98 IS 16 10, 12, 16, 46 Wigmore 12, 44, 48, 54, 68, 69, 70, 110 Castle 54, 68, 70 G range 68 Widemarsh Common - (J ate Street Hall. Road — ; Rolls Wigmoremarsh Street Willersley 69 66 95 12 109 Wilcroft William III. ... of Malmesbury — Wycumbe PACK 102 4 25 26 Williams' Hospital ... 5, 7 Wilton ... ... 14, 59 Abbey ... 54 Bridge 58, 59, 87 Castle 53, 58, 59, 70, 87 Windsor, Dean & C'hapterof 17 Window Mill ... ... 103 Withington Station Woofferton ... 52, 53, Woolhope ... 10 Club Room Field Club — Hills Valley Worcester -shire Beacon Wordsworth Wormesley Wulwive Wyatt Wych, The Wycumbe, William of Wygmore. William Wye Bridge, Hereford 102 92 67, 68, 69 I, 10^, lO'i 21 21 23 85 108 91 71, 72 46 111:1 40 26 71 86 14 21, 22, 45, 73, 84, 99 River, 1, 8, 43, 54, 57, 66, 81, 86, 87, 88, 89, 90, 91, 93, 94, 97, 99 Valley ... 23, 44 Wyndcliff, The Wynnes Yarpole Yatley Yatton 52, Court Yazor Yorkists Yorkshire 90 14 69, 70, 95 95 101 70 100 3 96 Printed by Jakeman and Carver, High Town, Hereford. University of California SOUTHERN REGIONAL LIBRARY FACILITY 405 Hilgard Avenue, Los Angeles, CA 90024-1388 Return this material to the library from which it was borrowed. WIMU D 000 4!