TRAVELERS' HANDBOOK TO SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA Travelers' Handbook TO Southern California BY George Wharton James. Author of In and Around the Grand Canyon of the Colorado River in Arizona ; Old Missions and Mission Indians of California ; Indian Basketry : How to Make Indian and Other Baskets ; Scenic Mount Lowe ; The Indians of the Painted Desert Region, etc., etc. PUBLISHED ANNUALLY. 1904. George Wharton James, Pasadena, California, who will gladly receive suggestions for future editions. By George Wharton James. IN AND AROUND THE GRAND CANYON OF THE COLORADO RIVER IN ARIZONA. Third Edition. 346 paRCs. Cloth, 8vo. One Hundred Illustrations. $2.50 net. Postage 30c. extra. THE INDIANS OF THE PAINTED DESERT REGION. Second Edition. 268 pages. Cloth, Svo. Seventy Illustrations. $2.00 Net. Postage 25c. ejrtra. INDIAN BASKETRY. Third Edition. Over 400 pages. Upwards of 600 Illustrations. Cloth, Svo. $2.50 net. Postage 25c. extra. HOW TO MAKE INDIAN AND OTHER BASKETS. Second Edition. t40 pages. Cloth, Svo. 220 Illustrations. $1.00 net. Postage J 2c. extra. THE OLD MISSIONS AND MISSION INDIANS OF CALIFORNIA. First Edition exhausted. Second Edition now in preparation. TRAVELERS' HANDBOOK TO SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA Second Edition. Cloth, l6mo. For the pocket. 400 pages. Many Illustrations. 75c. Postage JOc. extra. THESE PAGES ARE CORDIALLY DEDICATED TO JAMES HORSBURGH, Jr., AsstsTANT General Passenger Agent of the Southern Pacific Company, THE CREATOR OF THE SUNSET" MAGAZINE, THAT INTELLIGENT ADVERTISER OF CALIFORNIA, WHO HAS DONE MORE THAN ANY OTHER MAN TO MAKE THE RESOURCES OF THE GOLDEN STATE KNOWN, AND WITHOUT WHOSE KINDLY ASSIST- ANCE—DIRECT AND INDIRECT-THIS BOOK WOULD NEVER HAVE BEEN COMPILED BY THIS AUTHOR. 4933^6 LIERARi ( : / o INTRODUCTION. It is natural that one should love the land of his birth, and reasons could be found which would satisfactorily account for the wild Arab's love of the trackless desert, or the Laplander's affection for the land of eternal snow. But it is not "vain boasting" that leads the Southern Californian to express in glowing terms his love for his chosen home. Elsewhere it might be the "exaggeration of vanity." Here it is the most charming statement of existent facts. Take all the charming features enlarged upon by the most enthusiastic lover of his own land and see how few of them are lacking here. There are sapphire skies over-arching orange and lemon groves, with a climate all-the-year-round not dreamed of elsewhere, — equable, winter and summer, where July is as agreeable as December, March as September. Twenty miles and more off-shore are isles verdant, rich, beautiful and historic, and in scores of valleys and on hundreds of hill slopes are emerald green fields, where, occasionally, nestle lakes, pure, clear, quiet, in marked contrast to the hurling, whirling, dashing cataracts and torrents of the Colorado River, which marks our Eastern boundary. Thousands of rocky recesses in gigantic mountains, over- looked by towering peaks, invite the stalwart wanderer, and, in solitary sublimity and awc-insiring majesty, a score of snow-clad peaks thrills the heart of the adven- turous climber. Hence we love our "Land of the Sun-Down Sea" with a passionate devotion few other countries call forth from their children. She appeals to our affection on all sides, and touches our lives at every possible angle. To the enjoyment of a visit to this highly favored region, the Travelers' Handbook is indispensable. Thous- ands of visitors regret, when it is too late, that they had not known of the existence of this, that and the other place, for they would assuredly have visited them. With 8 lliis honk in liaiul the intelligent tourist will never he at a loss to choose his ohjectivc point, and tiic information therein given will make all the difference between a mean- ingless visit to a meaningless place, and an intelligent survey of a place full of historic and interesting memories. The traveler, driven for time, will here gather in graphic, compact and accurate form, glimpses of what he might have seen, while the careful and leisurely traveler will possess in this work a vivid memorandum of the scenic impressions he has enjoyed. Many hitherto obscure nooks will he brought to light; fact will be disentangled from fiction, and the virtues of tlic country set forth without exaggeration. To achieve this comprehensive work with fidelity, accur- acy and due proportion, the author has spent many years in a careful study of the land and its peculiar charms. Most of the descriptions have been written on the spot, and arc records of actual impressions received at the time. He has earnestly and sincereh' sought to make his small and unpretentious volume an encj'clopedia of information on the beautiful, the productive, the Southern half of the State of California, which, awakened from its century of primitive and poetic development, has entered into new life and broader activities than the founders ever saw, even in their dreams. I liavc invariably given the old Spanish names to the mountains, valleys, etc., to the exclusion of the latter, and, often, ugly names. All those who enjoy the suggestions of romance these poetic and rich old Spanish names afford, will surely aid in the effort to banish forever such names as "Baldy," "Grayback," "Smith's Mountain," and the like. 1 have also anglicized, as many thoughtful scholars are now doing, the spelling of the word "canon" and made it "canyon." Why burden our already over-burdened lan- guage with a foreign accent which we can do without? George Whartot J.\mes. St>t> fTfnfcoJe San Fernando Mission, CHAPTER I. SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA. Boundaries. — If it were possible for an adventurous and curious traveler to anchor a balloon at such a height and in such a position as to afford him a complete view of that section of California comprised between latitudes 36° and 32°, and extending, somewhat irregularly, from longitudes 122^ W. to 114° W., he would therein find what not inap- propriately has been termed "the Switzerland-Italy of America." It is the region that is generally known as Southern California. It embraces the seven counties of Ventura, Santa Barbara, Los Angeles, Orange, River- side, San Bernardino and San Diego. From our 'elevated point of vantage let us together take a cursory survey of this wonderful land. Its boundaries first an-est our attention. On the land side there is an immense desert region, including almost the entirety of the Colorado and Mohave deserts, lined on the cast by the Colorado River, and on the other side by the pearly faced, peaceful Pacific Ocean, dotted with several beautiful is- lands. North of this section are the counties of San Luis Obispo, Kern, Monterey, Tulare and Inyo, and below, Baja California, a territory of the Republic of Mexico. I'he shore line of the Pacific Ocean trends from the north- west to the southeast, and on the desert side the boundary line between Southern California and Nevada follows soiiicwliat the same direction, and then joins the Colorad') River, wliicli becomes the line between Soiitliern California and Arizona in a deflected direction of southwest. This irregular region, so singularly bounded, has within its confines lofty snow-capped mountains, beautiful, ver- dant valleys, placid, silvery lakes, interesting, curious rivers, and all the other necessary topographical features to stamp at once, upon our minds, the thought that it is a land of perpetual charm and irresistible attraction. The area covered by these seven counties is about 50,000 square miles. Many important Eastern States are much smaller than this territory, and England and Wales com- bined or Ireland and Scotland could be comfortably housed within its borders with considerable room to spare. The Use of the Term Southern California. — There is no Southern California. True Californians are too proud of their great, grand, glorious State to seek for or desire its partition. It is one, united and indivisible, or, at least, let us hope so. But common parlance has coined the expres- sion and geographical and climatic conditions demand its perpetuation as a cognomen of distinction. It is found that below the Tehachipi range of mountains peculiar climatic conditions exist; the coast current from the North being deflected at Point Concepcion and the warm current from the South being drawn up into the sea area thus untouched by the colder waters ; there being no coast range of moun- tains to prevent the easy flow of gentle, sea-warmed breezes coming over the land ; the existence of vast mountain ranges on whose towering summits snow is generally to be found throughout the year, and yet on whose eastern bases are the wide expanses of the Mohave and Colorado Deserts; these and several other topographical features combine to produce unique conditions of climate which differentiate Southern California not only from all other parts of the State, but from almost every other region of the known world. Hence the name Southern California. The Pacific Ocean forms its western and southwestern boundary. Beginning at the extreme north, the coast line trends almost due south until it reaches the boundary line of Southern California at Point Concepcion, which is also its western limit. Here it makes a sudden and deep curve eastward and southward for 214 miles, to the Mexican boundary on the seashore below San Diego. This eastern indentation leaves a favored region, with a southern ex- posure to the sunny Pacific and frees it from the fierce northern winds. All along this southern coast line the waters of the Pacific are warmer both winter and summer, by nearly ten degrees than those which touch the coast further north. This is owing to the deflection off Point Concepcion by a submarine mountain chain (of which the Channel Islands are the crest), of the Kuro Siwo, the Japan Current, which, bringing its warm waters into the Northern Pacific, is cooled by contact with the great cir- cular drift-current of that portion of the ocean. Flowing then southward on its return to the Japanese Coast, it is deflected at the point named, and thus causes a suction. This draws the warm waters of the South Pacific Ocean up the shores of Southern California and within the chan- nel formed by the belt of islands beginning with Los Coronados off the coast of Mexico on the south, termi- nating in the Santa Barbara group on the north. Thus thrust out, by the submarine hills, the cold California current flows one hundred miles westward from the main- land of Southern California; — too far away to materially affect, in winter, the warmth of the near shore current; and yet near enough in summer to temper the hot air, which, rising from the deserts forming the eastern boun- fl.ny, fl:.■>_• V" ■ -^ ^^^ A Mexican House of Adobe. CHAPTER II. GENERAL HISTORY OF SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA. Four words alone suggest its histor}- — Indian, Spaniard, Franciscan, American. A brief survey of each of tliese periods will, necessarily, be of interest to the intelligent traveler. Aboriginal Period. — Of the Aboriginal history but little is known. There are many conflicting reports about the primitive people. Vizcaino says he found the land "thickly settled with people who were of gentle disposition, peace- able and docile, and who can be brought readily within the fold of the holy gospel and into subjection to the Crown of Your Majesty. Their food consists of seeds which they have in abundance and variety, and of the flesh of game, such as deer which are larger than cows, and bear, and of neat cattle and bisons and many other animals. The In- dians are of good stature and fair complexion, the women being somewhat less in size than the men and of pleasing countenance. The clothing of the people of the coast- lands consists of the skins of the sea-wolves abounding there, which they tan and dress better than is done in Castile. * * * They have vessels of pine wood very well made, in which they go to sea with fourteen paddle- men on a side, with great dexterity — even in very stormy weather. I was informed by them, and by many others I met with in great numbers along more than eight hundred leagues of a thickly settled coast, that inland there are great communities, which they invited me to visit with them. They manifested great friendship for us and a desire for intercourse; were well affected toward the image i6 of Our T.ady wliicli T sliowcd to them, and very attcnli' to liic sacrifice of the mass. They worship difTrrcnt idols, and they are well acquainted with silver and gold, and said that these were found in the interior." But George Butler Griffin, the translator of this and other letters of Vizcaino, says in a foot-note that "Vizcai- no's letters, generally, are full of exaggerated statements and falsehoods, and in this letter he gives his fancy a slack rein. :!= * * y\t t|,g (j^g Qf j^jg yjgij; many of the beasts and plants he mentions did not exist, nor had they ever existed, in California; nor did he meet with any natives such as he describes." A brief chapter on the Indians will be found in later pages. Disco7'cry by the Spaniards. — The period of discovery is interesting to the student, but can be presented only briefly here. Juan Rodriguez Cabrillo, a Portuguese navigator, whose services had been secured by the Spaniards, brave and skilful, yet of whom little but his California expedi- tion is known, came exploring the Pacific Coast northward, with two vessels, in 1542-3, and, entering "a Irnd-locked and very good harbor," named it San Miguel. There is no doubt from his descriptions, but that this was the bay now known as San Diego, and that the date of his entry was in September, 1542. Here he remained six days. "The natives were timid in their intercourse with the strangers whom they called Guaccunal. but they wounded with their arn^ws those of a party that landed at night to fish. Interviews, voluntary and enforced, were held with a few individuals both on shore and on the ships; and the Spaniards understood by their signs that the natives had seen or heard of men like themselves, bearded, mounted and armed, somewhere in the interior. It is not impos- sible, though not improbable, that the natives had heard of 17 Diaz, Alarcon, and Ulloa at the head of the gulf. The Indians of San Diego are described 'as well formed, of large size and clothed in skins.' " On October 3, Cabrillo sailed out of San Diego Bay and continued his voyage north, but, being badly equipped against the storms he doubtless met there, and too anxious about the welfare of his expedition, he sickened, died and was buried on one of the Santa Barbara group of islands, generally supposed to be San Miguel. Southern California was next visited by Sir Francis Drake, the brave and bold British explorer, buccaneer or pirate (whichever the reader may like, according to wheth- er he is English, Spanish or American), whose chief glory seemed to be in harassing the commerce of Spain and cap- turing her heavily laden galleons whenever possible. He named the country New Albion. In 1595 Sebastian Rodriguez de Cermenon visited the Coast. Vizcaino's Expeditions. — Soon afterwards Phillip III. of Spain, angered at the report of Drake's naming of the country after his hated foe, England, and having reports from his Mexican officials of the land passed by his fleets on their way from Mexico to the Philippine Islands, gave orders to Don Luis de Velasco, the viceroy of Mexico, then under Spanish dominion, to have the Coast line thoroughly explored — "that a survey and demarcation of the harbors to be found on the voyage to and from these islands be made, with a view to the safety of the ships which come and go." After a good deal of quibbling and tedious waiting, a Portuguese named Vizcaino, with whom Velasco had long been negotiating, was allowed to sail. His first trip was up the Gulf of California, and was not regarded as suc- cessful. His second expedition left Acapulco on Sunda}', the 5tli of May, 1602, at 5 o'clock, lie had four vessels, two ships; also a laitclia and abarcoluenno. On the loih of November he entered San Diego Bay. It is to Vizcaino we owe so many of the beautiful and euphonious names that designate various places along the coast in Southern California, as will be seen from the chapter on "Place Names." The Franciscan Missionaries. — For 166 years after Viz- caino a gap occurs, the Spanish being kept busy with their troubles at home; until about 1767, King Charles III. of Spain ordered an expedition to sail, to take possession of the Californias, convert the Indians found there, and pro- tect the country from the encroachments of Russians from the north, which the latter then owned. Jose de Galvez, the visitador general of New Spain, — a man of great fore- sight and ability, — to whom the Americans of the Southern California of to-day owe much, — was the man to whom this important undertaking was intrusted. The only knowl- edge of where he was to go was obtained from the very indefinite "survey" of Vizcaino, "yet so closely was this first definite scheme of colonization and conversion planned that there were orders to plant a mission and garrison first at San Diego, then at Monterey, and then one, half way between, to be called Buena Ventura."' Shortly before this expedition was organized the Jesuits, who had founded a number of missions in Baja California, were expelled from Mexico, and their work w^as placed under the control of the Franciscans, with headquarters at the College of San Fernando, in the City of Mexico. The College, with a perspicacity highly commendable, chose Padre Junipcro Serra as the President of these missions, and when Galvez required of them missionaries to ac- company him on his expedition north, Serra's jurisdiction was extended, and he was appointed president of all the 19 California missions, those already in existence in Lower California and those to be founded in Upper California. The following chapter deals entirely with the work of Serra and his religious coadjutors. But the work of Galvez was so important and far-reaching in its results as to demand a little enlarging upon. He was the prac- tical head of the expedition, ordering the taking with it of 200 head of cattle from the northernmost mission of Lower California, and also of a full supply of all kinds of seeds of vegetables, grains and flowers ; everything, in fact, that grew in Old Spain he wished transplanted to New Spain. "It was he, also, as full of interest for chapel as for farm, who selected and packed with his own hands sacred orna- ments and vessels for church ceremonies. A curious letter of his to Father Palou is extant in which he says, laugh ingly, that he is a better sacristan than Father Junipero, ha\'ing packed the holy vessels and ornaments quicker and better than he." This expedition, from a political standpoint, definitely placed California under the rule of Spain, under which it remained until Mexico declared her independence, in 1822, and made California a portion of her territory. During this period of the Franciscans, San Diego, Los Angeles, San Juan Capistrano, San Luis Rey, San Gabriel, San Buenaventura, San Luis Obispo, San Fernando, San Pedro and Santa Barbara pueblos or towns were all founded. To the practical mind the chief significance, possibly, of the founding of the missions is that the padres first began the colonization of California. The way they gathered the Indians about them and promoted various industries is duly related in the chapter on the Missions. Founding of Los Angeles. — In 1781, August 26, Philipe de Neve, Governor of California, authorized the founding of the second pueblo, or town, in California, — that of Los 20 AiiRclcs, the first having been founded in 1777 at San Jose. On the 4th of September twelve adult males, all of them heads of families, met together and formally founded fl^-^ town. These twelve men were named Lara, Nevarro, Rosas, Mesa, Moreno, Rosas, Villavicencia, Banepas, Rod- riguez, Camero, Quintcro and Rodriguez. Two were na- tives of Spain, one a native of China, and the other nine of some one of the following places: Sinaloa, Sonora and Lower California. They had all been Spanish soldiers, and, though now relieved from active service, were still in the pay of the Spanish government. The town com- prised forty-six inhabitants in all, twenty of them being children under ten j'ears of age. The government of those days was exceedingly primitive, as must also have been the life of the early Angelenos. As the other pueblos grew around the missions, and set- tlers slowly began to come in, the country slightly changed its aspect. The cattle and horses brought by the padres increased rapidly. It was made an offense to be severely punished to destroy any female of the domestic or past0r.1l animals, and the result was the rapid stocking of the whole country. The Convcrfed Indians. — Tn 1780, the sixteen padres of California had 3.000 converts under their control. In 1800, this number had increased to 13.500. with eighteen missions and forty padres, .^nd when it is remembered that of this rude, ignorant, useless, savage population the padres made "silleros (saddlers), herreros (blacksmiths), sastres (tail- ors), molineros (millers), panderos (bakers), plateros (silversmiths), toneleros (coopers), cargadores (freight- ers), valeros (candle makers), vendemiadores (vintagers), caldereros (coppersmiths), zapateros (shoemakers), som- brereros (hatters), comfeleros de panocha (makers of pan- ocha), guitarreros (guitar-makers), arrieros (muleteers). 21 alcaldes, mayordomos, rancheros (ranchmen), medicos (doctors), pastores (shepherds), cordileros (ropemakcrs), lenadores (wood-cutters), pentadores (painters), esculores (sculptors), albaniles (masons), toreadores (toreadors), acolitos (acolytes), canteros (stonecutters), sacristanes (sacristans), campaneros (bellringers), cocineros (cooks), cantores (singers), musicos (musicians), cazadores (hunt- ers), jaboneros (soapmakers), curtidores (tanners), tegi- dores (weavers), tigeros (tilemakers), bordodores (em- broiderers), pescatores (fishermen), marineros (sailors), vineteros (winemakers), caporales (corporals), habra- dores (farmers), vaqueros (herders), llaveros (turnkeys), domadores (horse-tamers), barberos (barbers), cesteros (basket-makers), and carpenteros (carpenters), with Eu- ropean models, standards and methods, the wonder at the marvellous power of the padres grows into a reverence. Wood and stone carving, engraving of horn, inlaying of wood and of iron with silver, leather work, the embossing of shields and saddles, silver work, basket making, lace and drawn work, hair work, frescoing, rude painting, embroidering in gold and silver thread, and the making of musical instruments — all these arts were gradually prac- ticed under favorable conditions for developing individual capacity. Indians made in mortar, vats for the wine, foun- tains for the water, zanjas for irrigation, the covering of walls for defence. In wood they carved statues, stirrups, fonts, pulpits, chairs, benches, doorways and altar-rails. They made sun-dials and the stocks; the varas de justica, or sticks of justice, carried by the mayordomos; the eposas or manacles for refractory neophytes ; brands for the tithed mission herds ; book-covers and sandals for the padres ; tuna and pomegranate wine; panocha for the children; mail for the soldiers; biers for the dead." I say, when it is remembered that such a host of skilled wiirkers and i)ro(liiccrs were developed Ijy tlic sagacious training of llie savages l)y llic padres, California owes nuicli, in llie way of its advancement, to these missionary laborers. Spread the glory of these achievements ! Never was there in any land such a record of accomplishment in so brief a period. Crops of from 30,000 lo 75,000 bushels of grain, per year, were exacted from the soil. Early in the century a con- servative estimate states there were 70,000 horses and cattle, rapidly increasing. , Independence of Mexico. — Under Spanish rule foreigners were forbidden the land, but one by one, outsiders began to filter in, to become assimilated, and prepare the way for more. In 1822, when the independence of Mexico was pro- claimed, a Mexican governor displaced the Spanish gov- ernor. Sola, and the first provincial legislature or disputa- cion was organized. The padres regarded this change with foreboding; and by their refusal to take the required oath of allegiance to the new government, laid the foundation for the secularization and thus the utter overthrow of the missions. In 1826 Governor Echeandia issued a decree for the partial emancipation of the neophytes of San Diego, Santa Barbara, and Monterey, but it was scarcely felt by any except the padres, who saw in it the first stroke of their doom. In 1829 a revolt of some unpaid soldiers at Monterey, assisted by some native Californians led to a conflict at Santa Barbara, but this trouble was easily and quickly quelled. Secularisation. — In 1830 Echeandia, still pushing his sec- ularization ideas, succeeded in getting the California legis- lature to pass an act, providing for the gradual transforma- 23 tion of the missions into pueblos, and for making each Indian a shareholder in the lands and cattle. But before this plan could be put in operation it was necessary that it be confirmed by the home government in Mexico, and before this could be done Echeandia was succeeded in the Gubernatorial office by Manuel Victoria, who had for some time been governor of Lower California. The padres welcomed Victoria as an opponent of vSecu- larization, but his rule was unpopular, and, in 1831, the arbitrary action of a Los Angeles alcalde, who had im- prisoned some of the influential citizens of that city, was made the cause for a popular uprising. The claim was made that Victoria was the inspiration of the illegal acts of his alcalde. Li the latter part of November, the Gov- ernor, with but a small escort, left Monterey for the South. "On the 5th of December, 1831, the people of Los Angeles, having liberated those who had been imprisoned by the alcalde, and made a prisoner of the latter, armed them- selves and sallied forth to meet and oppose General Vic- toria. He was met a few miles from Los Angeles, when a conflict ensued, in which one of his officers. Captain R. Pacheco — the father of Ex-Governor Pachcco — and one of the attacking party, Don Jose Maria Abila, of Los Angeles, were killed. The General, leaving Los Angeles to his right, repaired to the San Gabriel Mission, where on the following day he surrendered up his authority to the in- surgents, who sent him to San Diego, from which place he shortly after embarked for the coast of Mexico. "For some time after the expulsion of General Victoria, Los Angeles was the seat of government of those who expelled him. The head of the government was General Jose Maria Echandia, who had been the predecessor of Victoria. His jurisdiction, however, only extended over the southern part of the territory. The people of the 24 iKPilliciii i)()rli()ii adlicrcd to tlic government of General Victoria, and sustained, as tlie riKhlfuI head of tlic civil and military government of California, Captain Agustin V. Zamorano, the military officer next in rank to the General. This division was not healed until General Jose Figueroa reached California in 1833." Governor Pigucroa. — Figueroa was an able man and a good governor, and Los Angeles has honored him and itself also, by naming one of its most beautiful streets after him. Though himself a conservative man, and opposed to any- thing more than the gradual emancipation of the neophytes of the missions, the dread order of secularization, so long feared by the padres, was passed by the Mexican Congress August 17, 1833. A brief statement here of the material condition of the missions will not be out of place, together with vivid pic- tures by eye witnesses of methods of conducting business at the missions, both before and after the secularization. I quote now from James Steele's "Old California Days." "Seven hundred thousand cattle grazed on the mission pastures, with sixty thousand horses and an immense num- ber of other domestic animals. "A hundred and twenty thousand bushels of wheat were raised annually, besides other crops. "The usual products came under the following heads : wheat, wine, brandj', soap, leather, hides, wool, oil, cotton, hemp, linen, tobacco, salt, soda. "Two hundred thousand head of cattle were slaughtered annually, at a net profit of ten dollars each. "Gardens, vineyards and orchards surrounded or were contiguous to all the missions except the two most northern ones. * * * "The total average annual gains of the missions from 25 sales and trade generally were more than two million dollars. This, on an uninhabited and distant coast where commerce, in our sense, was unknown. "The value of the live stock alone, was, in 1834, two millions of dollars." William Heath Davis says : "The missions exacted from the cattle owners as contribution, known as dieznio, for the support and benefit of the clergy, and for the expense of the missions, one-tenth of the increase of the cattle. Tlie tax was not imposed by the general government, but was solely an ecclesiastical matter, diligently collected by the clergy of the different missions, and religiously contrib- uted by the rancheros." Dana's Pictures. — Dana, in his "Two Years Before the Mast," draws a number of fascinating pictures of the state of the country in the years 1835-6. Of Santa Barbara he says : "The town lies a little nearer to the beach, about half a mile from it, and is composed of one-story houses, built of sun-dried clay, or adobe, some of them whitewashed, with red tiles on the roofs. I should judge that there were about a hundred of them; and in the midst of them stands the Presidio, or fort, built of the same materials, and ap- parently but little stronger. The town is finely situated, with a bay in front and an amphitheater of hills behind. The only thing which diminishes its beauty is that the hills have no large trees upon them, they having been all burnt by a great fire which swept them off about a dozen years ago, and they had not yet grown again. The fire was descriGcd to me by an inhabitant, as having been a very terrible and magnificent sight. The air of the whole valley was so heated that the people were obliged to leave the town and take up their quarters for several days upon the beach." 2G In Ill's oli.iptcr on San Diipo In- thus f|cscrilx:s a portion of one of liis Suiul.iys : Indian Gauics. — "Tlic Indians, wlio always Iiavc a lioli day on Sunday, were engaged at playing a kind of running game of ball, on a level piece of ground, near the houses. The old ones sat down in a ring, looking on, while the young ones — men, boys and girls — were chasing the ball, and throwing it with ail their might. Some of the girls ran like greyhounds. At every accident, or remarkable feat, the old people set up a deafening screaming and clap- ping of hands. Several bluejackets were reeling about among the houses, which showed that the pulperias had been well patronized. One or two of the sailors had got on horseback, but being rather indifferent horsemen, and the Mexicans having given them vicious beasts, they were soon thrown, much to the amusement of the people. A half-dozen Sandwich Islanders, from the hide-houses and the two brigs, bold riders, were dashing about on a full gallop, hallooing and laughing like so many wild men." Loading Hides. — As an offset to the foregoing picture, read what he says of the difficult task at San Pedro, load- ing hides in exchange for the goods his vessel had brouglu for trading purpose : "We loaded our longboat with goods of all kinds, light and heavy, and pulled ashore. After landing and rolling them over the stones upon the beach, we stopped, waiting for carts to come down the hill and take them ; but the captain soon settled the matter by order- ing us to carry them all up to the top, saying that that was California fashion. So, what the oxen would not do, we were obliged to do. The hill was low, but steep, and the earth, being clayey and wet with the recent rains, was but bad holding ground for our feet. The heavy barrels and casks we rolled up with some difficulty, getting behind and putting our shoulders to them; now and then, our feet 27 slipping, added to the danger of the casks rolling back upon us. But the greatest trouble was with the large boxes of sugar. I'hese we had to place upon oars, and lifting ihem up, rest the oars upon our shoulders, and creep slowly up the hill with the gait of a funeral proces- sion. After an hour or two of hard work, we got them ail up, and found the carts standing full of hides, which we had to unload and to load the carts again with our own goods ; the lazy Indians, who came down with them, squat- ting on their hams, looking on, doing nothing, and when we asked them to help us, only shaking their heads and drawling out 'no quiero.' "Having loaded the carts, we started up the Indians, who went ofif, one on each side of the oxen, with long sticks, sharpened at the end, to punch them with. This is one of the means of saving labor in California — two In- dians to two oxen. Now, the hides were to be got down; and for this purpose we brought the boat round to a place where the hill was steeper, and threw them off, letting them slide over the slope. Many of them lodged, and we had to let ourselves down and set them going again, and in this way became covered with dust, and our clothes torn. After we had the hides all down, we were obliged to take them on our heads, and walk over the stones, and through the water, to the boat. The water and the stones together would wear out a pair of shoes a day, and as shoes were very scarce and very dear, we were obliged to go bare- footed. At night we went on board, having had the hardest and most disagreeable day's work that we had yet ex- perienced. For several days we were employed in this manner, until we had handled forty or fifty tons of goods, and brought on board about two thousand hides." Native Carts. — The carts used are well described as fol- lows : 28 "At lliis lime there was not in California any vcliiclc except a rude California cart; tiic wheels were wilhoi't tires, and were made by felling an oak tree and hewing ii down until it made a solid wheel nearly a foot thick on the rim and a little thicker where the axle went through. The. hole for the axle would be eight or nine inches in di- ameter, but a few years' use would increase it to a foot. To make the hole, an auger, gouge or chisel was some- times used, but the principal tool was an ax. A small tree required but little hewing or shaping to answer for an axle. These carts were always drawn by oxen, the yokes being lashed with rawhide to the horns. To lubricate the axles they used soap (that is one thing the Mexicans could make), carrying along for the purpose a big pail of thick soapsuds which was constantly put in the box or hole, but you could generally tell when a California cart was com- ing a half mile away by the squeaking. I have seen the fam- ilies of the wealthiest people go long distances at the rate of thirty miles or more a day, visiting, in one of these clumsy two-wheeled vehicles. They had a little framework around it made of round sticks, and a bullock hide was put in for a floor or bottom. Sometimes the better class would have a little calico for curtains or cover." Harvesting. — John Bidwell, the veteran prohibitionist of California, and a pioneer of 1841, in the Century Magazine of December, 1890, from which I have already quoted, gives an interesting account of the w-ay harvesting was carried on in early days: "Harvesting, with the rude im- plements, was a scene. Imagine three or four hundred wild Indians in a grain field, armed, some with sickles, some with butcher knives, some with pieces of hoop iron roughly fashioned into shapes like sickles, but many hav- ing only their hands with which to gather by small hand- fuls the dry brittle grain, and as their hands would soon 29 become sore, they resorted to dry willow sticks, which were split to afiford a sharper edge with which to sever the straw. But the wildest part was the threshing. The harvest of weeks, sometimes of a month, was piled up in the form of a mound in the middle of a high, strong, round corral ; then three or four hundred wild horses were turned in to thresh it, the Indians whooping to make them run faster. Suddenly they would dash in before the band at full speed, when the motion became reversed, with the effect of plowing up the trampled straw to the very bot- tom. In an hour the grain would be thoroughly threshed and the dry straw broken almost into chaff. In this man- ner I have seen two thousand bushels of wheat threshed in a single hour. Next came the winnowing, which wouM often take another month. It could only be done when the wind was blowing, by throwing high into the air shovel- fuls of the grain, straw and chaff, the lighter materials being wafted to one side, while the grain, comparatively clean, would descend and form a heap by itself. In this manner all the grain in California was cleaned. At that day no such thing as a fanning mill had ever been brought to this coast." Hospitality of Early Californians. — Mr. Bidwell also speaks of the hospitality of the native Californians of this period in the following eulogistic, but undoubtedly true, terms : "The kindness and hospitality of the native Californians have not been over-stated. Up to the time the Mexican re- gime ceased in California they had a custom of never charging for anything; that is to say, for entertainment — food, use of horses, etc. You were supposed, even if in- vited to visit a friend, to bring your blankets with j'ou, and one would be very thoughtless if he traveled and did not 30 take a knife witli liiiii to cut his meat. When yon had eaten, the invarialilc custom was to rise, deliver to the woman or hostess the plate on which you had eaten thr meat and heans — for that was about all they had — and say, 'Muchas iiiacias. Scnora,' (Many thanks, Madam) ; and the hostess as invariably replied, 'Biicn provccUo' (May it do you much good). Tlie missions in California invariably had gardens with grapes, olives, figs, pomegranates, pears and apples, but the ranches scarcely ever had any frtiit. With the exception of the tuna or prickly pear, these were the only cultivated fruits I can recall to mind in Califor- nia, except oranges, lemons and limes in a few places. When you wanted a horse to ride, you would take it to the next ranch — it might be twenty, thirty, or fifty miles — and turn it out there, and sometime or other, in reclaiming his stock, the owner would get it back. In this way j'ou might travel from one end of California to the other." Secularization. — When the padres saw that the political tornado of spoliation was coming upon the missions, they began, at once, to convert all their cattle and stock, as far as posible, into monej'. General ^t. G. Vallejo is authority for the statement that "in the missions of San Gabriel, San Fernando, San Juan Capistrano and San Luis Rey, they killed by contract with private individuals, during the years 1830, 1831 and 1832, more than sixty thousand head of cattle, from which they only saved the hides. The pe- cuniary wealth of the missions in their primitive days, which were more productive, was sent out of the country to Spain, Mexico or Italy. This I know : and presume, and even' believe, that all of it arrived safely at its place of destination." Thus the mission property wasted away. Many of the padres returned to Mexico, and the neophytes, for whose 31 good they had labored with so much care, were scattered in the towns and villages of the gentiles, to whom the mission lands were granted by the authorities. For a long time the country suffered by the absence of the guiding hands of the padres, but by and bj'e, the re- cuperative energy of the region manifested itself. The new comers were incited to labor intelligently by the stories of the successes of the priests, and it is asserted, upon good authority, that even after the secularization of the missions and consequent dispersion of their property, that California "in proportion to the population, was the richest of any country under Spanish dominion and in- habited by citizens of Castilian extraction." From this period dates the want of care of the mission buildings. They were unsalable, the padres had no one to care for them ; some of them were deserted, and so they began to crumble, until to-day so many of them are found in a state of utter dilapidation and ruin. Various Mexican Governors. — I have rapidly sketched the effect of the Secularization of the Missions, and given several quotations to show, somewhat, the state of the country at that period ; but, in the meantime other political events had been transpiring. Figueroa died at Monterey in 1835, leaving the governor- ship to Jose Castro, and the military command to the rank- ing officer of the territory, Guteirrez. In January, 1836, Castro retired from the governorship in favor of Guteir- rez, and the latter ruled for four quiet months, until Mari- ano Chico, who had been appointed by the Mexican Gov- ernment to succeed Figueroa, arrived. Chico fell upon evil times. Royce says: "Chico was the best hated, and, as to personal reputation, the most unfortunate of all the Mexican Governors in California, although his rule was very brief. He had to encounter the growing jealousy 32 between the northern and southern parts of California, and his personal bearing was sncli as to inname rather tlian tn conciliate it, insomuch that the Californians joined thenceforth in circulating exaggerated stories against him, denouncing him as a 'tyrant, rascal, and fool !' Furio'is personal quarrels, threatened rebellion, and lack of sup- port from the central government forced him to retire in July of the same year; and Guteirrez was once more left at the head of affairs. But the jealousy of everything Mexican was still growing. The mass of the Californians, although of the republican party, had found that Mexican republicanism brought no good to the land ; while the padres, looking back regretfully to the old Spanish days, used their influence also to bring Mexican authority into discredit. The better Californian families felt themselves superior in blood to most of the Mexicans; and the foreign- ers present in the land, numerous enough at this time to be influential, were equally opposed to Mexico. The re- sult of all this was the Alvarado revolution, in November, 1836. With a force that included American hunters and some foreign sailors, the revolutionists got possession of Monterey, and sent Guteirrez to Mexico; all of which was accomplished, after the Californian fashion of civil war- fare, without the shedding of blood, and by the mere show of force. The country was declared a sovereign State, which was thenceforth to have, if possible, only a federal union with Mexico ; the legislature elected Alvarado gover- nor ad iiitcriiii, and the new administration began with seemingly good prospects. But the South, the Los Angeles and San Diego country, was still to be conciliated, before California could be united in the new movement. Though the Mexican flag still waved at Monterey, the reports car- ried to the South attributed to the revolutionists extrava- gant designs, such as the defiance of Mexico, the delivery 33 of the province into American hands, and the subversion of the Catholic faith. A patriotic reaction was therefore threatened from Los Angeles, and Alvarado had to go South with a force, to meet in person the influences ar- rayed against him. He was successful in winning general support at Santa Barbara, and he entered Los Angeles itself, without serious resistance, in January, 1837. Further complications ensued; but in May the political success of Alvarado's cause in the South seemed already complete, and, in a proclamation, the new governor declared the country free and united, although he never gave up the union with Mexico. But such complete practical freedom as he had thus far planned was indeed to be given up ; for in June, 1837, Andres Castillero arrived as Mexican Com- missioner to California. He at first joined the opponents of Alvarado, at San Diego, and, with an armed force of Southerners, under the leadership of partisan opponents of Alvarado, once more threatened to restore Mexican supremac}^, and to overthrow the Northern leader. Cas- tillero had been commissioned in Mexico to bring to Cali- fornia the constitutional laws of December, 1836, which represented the new order of Mexico, and to receive the oaths of allegiance to this new order from Californian offi- cials. Alvarado, before any collision of forces could take place, now resolved to dispose of the Southern opposition by removing its chief ostensible cause; that is, by coming to terms with Castillero, by giving up his idea of mere federation, and by thus consenting to submit himself to constitutional Mexican authority. He hoped, not wrongly as the sequel proved, that he could in this way get con- firmation of himself as Mexican governor, and at the same time, so to speak, 'dish' his Southern enemies. This 'tri- umph in defeat' Alvarado gained by coming into friendly relations with Castillero, and by persuading him to go Ij.ick ti) Mcxici) in Alvar.ido's own interest, so .'is to get what CastilkT(j liad not yet, authority to receive Alvarado' submission, and furtlicr authority to make the latter, wh" still stood in the position of rebel, the constitutional gov- ernor of California. The Southern opposition was thus for the time overcome. Alvarado Revolution. — 'In October, 1837, the news of the appointment of a new governor, Carlos Carrillo, reacbf^d the land. The appointment had been made before Alvar- ado's submission was heard of. The opponents of Alvar- ado were now once more delighted; Carrillo was himself a well-known Californian, and commanded sympathy in the South. But, as turned out, he was politically incapable, and Alvarado forthwith determined to resist him, and did so successfully." A battle took place between the warring factions at San Buenaventura, which resulted in the death of one man and the flight of Carrillo's forces. "In April, 1838, Carrillo himself capitulated at Las Flores, some fifty or sixty miles north of San Diego; and Alvarado was again left, after this once more nearly bloodless conflict, in actual command of the country." "In this month, however, a small body of men, under the command of Clemente Espinosa, an ensign, was sent from Santa Barbara by Colonel Jose Maria Villa, a par- tisan of Governor Alvarado and General Castro, to cap- ture certain persons in Los Angeles suspected of being engaged in a plan to overthrow the Government of Alvar- ado, and replace Governor Carrillo in authority. The party of Espinosa entered Los Angeles in the night, and camped on the open space in front of the old Catholic church. The inhabitants discovered, on opening the door- of their dwellings on the following morning that the town had been captured, or rather that it was held by armod 35 men from abroad, who soon commenced a general search in the houses of the citizens for the suspected persons. Quite a number were arrested, among whom were Jose Antonio Carrillo, a brother of the deposed Governor, Pio Pico, Andres Pico, and Gil Ybarra, the then Alcalde of Los Angeles, together with about half a dozen more of the prominent native citizens of the place. They were all taken north as prisoners of war," eventually to be released by A 1 vara do. Governor Alvarado was, from the first, able to see the tendency of the new comers into the State to work to- wards annexing California to the United States, but he made the grave political error of furthering the plan by an effort to suppress it. In 1840 he issued orders for the arrest of all Americans in the country, and about seventy per- sons, nearly all Americans, were imprisoned, forty of whom were expelled to Mexico. Governor Micheltorena. — The American and English governments made considerable stir over the affair, and there is but little doubt but that this event was the prime cause in the substituting of Micheltorena for Alvarado in the Governorship in the year 1842. During Micheltorena's term of office, on the 20th of October, 1842, the premature capture of Monterey by Com- modore Thomas ap Catesby Jones took place. Pie believed war had been declared between the United States and Mexico, and desirous of forestalling England, or any other country, he had borne down upon Monterey, called upon the officers of the town to surrender and had raised the American flag. Twenty-four hours afterward he lowered it, discovering he had made a mistake, and the following month, with his suite of officers, in full uniform, he called upon Micheltorena in Los Angeles, to apologize for his action. The conference lasted several days, terminated 30 pleasantly, and a grand hanquct and hall were tendered the Comniodurc by Governor Micheltorena. It was a most gorgeous afi'air, llic wealth and beauty of the whole country being present. Micheltorena unfortunately brought some disreputable characters with him from Mexico and they soon succeeded in getting his rule generally disliked, and in the end of 1844 Alvarado and Castro had accomplished their purpose in raising a popular movement against him. Hostilities began in the North, but in January, 1845, Alvarado and Castro moved southward, persuading the rancheros to join them, taking some of the younger men as recruits against their will, cajoling or pressing horses, etc., until they reached Los Angeles, which they found loyal to the Governor. They entered the city quietly before daylight and sur- prised the soldiers in their quarters. Some resistance was made, and two of the defenders were killed. The officers who resisted were made prisoners. Battle of San Fernando. — Alvarado then used every in- ducement to prevail upon the leading citizens and officials to join him, and having gained the goodwill and assistance of Pio Pico and his brother Andres, he soon had a well mounted but poorly armed force of between seven and eight hundred men. In Januarj-, 1845, Alvarado rode forth with his army to meet Micheltorena, who had followed him south. They met in the San Fernando Valley. Here a three days' battle took place. The Americans on both sides met before the battle and decided to remain neutral. The conflict was "bloodless" except for the slaying of a few mules and horses. An eye witness to the following scene in Los Angeles thus describes the effect of the conflict there : "About nine o'clock one clear morning, a day or two after the departure of the troops, the first cannonading was heard in Los Angeles, and we knew that the battle had 37 commenced. Directly to the north was a high hill. As soon as the firing was heard, all the people remaining in the town — men, women, and children — ran to the top of the hill. As the wind was blowing from the north, the firing was distinctly heard, five leagues away on the battlefield, throughout the day. All the business places in town were closed. "The scene upon the hill was a remarkable one. Women and children with crosses in their hands, kneeling and praying to the' saints for the safety of their fathers, brothers, sons, husbands, lovers, cousins, — that they might not be killed in the battle ; indififerent to their personal ap- pearance, tears streaming from their eyes, and their hair blown about by the wind, which had increased to quite a breeze. Don Abel Stearn, myself and others tried to calm and pacify them, assuring them that there was probably no danger ; somewhat against our own convictions, it is true, judging from what we heard of the firing and from our knowledge of Micheltorena's disciplined force, his battery, and the riflemen he had with him. During the day the scene on the hill continued. The night that fol- lowed was a gloomy one, caused by the lamentations of the women an I children. "It afterward proved that our assurances to the women were correct, for not a single person was killed in this re- markable battle, only a few horses being shot. The next day the strife ended; Micheltorena capitulated, and agreed to leave with his troops, arms and followers." It is affirmed that the capitulation of Micheltorena was not compulsory, for his soldiers, arms and equipments were superior to those of Alvarado, but it was dictated by a broad and comprehensive humanity, which forebore to injure the many for the sake of gaining mere political power. Captain Sutter also l)ears testimony to the deposed governor's forbearance and generosity. 38 A few clays afttr tlic battle, Miclicltorcna moved to Pales Verde, about four miles from San Pedro, from which port he eventually sailed to Monterey and thence back to Mexico. Don Pio Pico now became provisional governor of the department, and remained in office until the political conquest of Californa by the United States. /linerican Conquest. — The last period is the one of Amer- ican conquest and occupation, and, could it be enlarged upon, its first days would be found to be as romantic as any of the others, affording as much and as rich material for such writers as Bret Harte and Joaquin Miller as they have ever yet manipulated. On the 7th of July, 1846, John D. Sloat, commander-in- chief of the U. S. naval forces, raised the U. S. flag at Monterey, and formal possession of the country for the United States was duly taken. Fremont. — Pio Pico, who recently died (September, 1894) in Los Angeles, was then governor of California, with governmental headquarters at Los Angeles, and the military forces were under the direction of General Jose Castro, "an officer of high pretensions, but utterly deficient in strength and steadiness of purpose, and that capacity which can work out important results with slender and inapposite means." For some time Castro had been stirring up strife against the "foreigners," as the Americans and other colonists were regarded, and when Lieutenant John C. Fremont came on his second expedition to California, Castro insolently bade him retreat, and threatened to drive him out unless he did so. This threat aroused Fremont to open hostilities, and, when Commodore Sloat raised the flag at Monterey, Fremont was already engaged in harass- ing Castro's forces, seizing his hor?es, capturing of prison- ers, etc. Fremont acknowledges that he was acting upon his own responsibility. He says : "Having carefully ex- 35 amined my position, and foreseeing, I tliink, clearly, all the consequences which may eventuate to m.e from such a step, I determined to take such active and anticipatory measures as should seem to me most expedient to protect my party and justify my own character. I was well aware of the grave responsibility which I assumed, but I also de- termined that, having once decided to do so, I would assume it and the consequences fully and entirely and go through with the business completely to the end." That he did so effectively is evidenced by two important facts. One is that California now belongs to the United States, taken possession of by Commodore Sloat as the result of Fremont's "action in the north," and the other is the following proclamation issued by Pio Pico from Los Angeles, on the news reaching him of the capture of the town of Sonoma. Flight of Governor Pico. — "The Constitutional Governor of the Department of California addresses to its inhabitants the following proclamation : " 'The national honor being gravely wounded and com- promised in the highest degree at the present time, I have the glory of raising my voice to you in the firm persuasion that you are Mexicans ; that there burns in your veins the blood of those venerable martyrs of the country, and that you will not fail to shed it in defense of her liberty and independence. At this moment your Department Governor has received the unfortunate news, officially communicated by the political authorities of Monterey, and dated four days ago, that a gang of North American adventurers, with the blackest treason that the spirit of evil could invent, have invaded the town of Sonoma, raising their f^ag and carrying off as prisoners four Mexican citizens. " 'Yes, fellow citizens ; and who of you on hearing of such fatal perfidy will not quit the domestic hearth and fly, gun in hand, to the field of honor to avenge the country's honor? 40 Will you be insciisiljlc lo tlic oppression in wliich masters so vile wish to put us? Will the grievous groans of the country not move you? Will you, with serene brow, see destroyed the fundamental pact of our sacred and our dear institutions? " 'No I No ! Far from you he every such suspicion ! It is not believed, from your patriotism, your blind love of country, that you will permit the beneficent and fruitful tree of sacred liberty to be profaned. The North American nation can never be our friend. She has laws, religion, language and customs totally opposed to ours. False to the most loyal friendship which Mexico has lavished upon her, to international law and to the soundest policy, put- ting in execution her piratical schemes, she has stolen the department of Texas and wishes to do the same with that of California, thus iniquitously to dismember the Mexican territory, to tarnish the flag of the tres ga antias, and raise her own, increasing the number of its fatal stars. " 'Fly, Mexicans, in all haste in pursuit of the treacherous foe! Follow him to the farthest wilderness! Punish his audacity! And in case we fail let us form a cemetery where posterity may remember to the glory of Mexican history the heroism of her sons, as is remembered the glory won by the death of the little band of citizens posted at the pass of Thermopylae under General Leonidas. Hear their motto: "Stranger, say to Lacedemonia that we have died here obeying her laws." "'Shall we not imitate this noble example? Shall we consent that the northern republic bring to our soil of liberty the horrible slavery permitted in its States? Shall we suffer human blood sold at a price for vile gain? And. finally, must we see profaned the august image of the Crucified and the dogmas of our sacred religion? " 'Foreign citizens who tread this soil, the department governor considers you under the protection of the laws 41 and treaties. Your property will be respected. Nobodj' will molest yon, and as you also are interested in pre- .serving peace and security, the government invites you to the punishment of the bandits who have invaded the north of this department. " 'Compatriots, run swiftly with me to crown your brows with the fresh laurels of unfading glory. In the fields of the north they are scattered ready to spring to your noble foreheads. Respond gladly, Mexicans, to the desire of your fellow-citizen and friend. Pio Pico.' "A few days after the raising of the flag Commodore Sloat gave way to his successor Commodore Stockton, and returned to Washington. Stockton and Fremont now in- dustriously set to work to arrest further hostilities by Castro, who had marched south with several hundred horsemen to reinforce Governor Pico at Los Angeles. "On the 25th of July, the Cyane — Captain Mervine — sailed from Monterey, with Lieutenant Colonel Fremont and a small volunteer force on board, for San Diego, to intercept Castro. A few days later. Commodore Stockton sailed in the Congress, frigate, for San Pedro, and, with a detachment from his squadron of three hundred and sixty men, and some artillery, marched to the enemy's camp, which he found deserted. Pico and Castro had also re- treated from Los Angeles, and Fremont, Who was march- ing up from San Diego, was disappointed in his expecta- tions of meeting them. Pico made his way, without dis- covery by the American forces, through San Diego into Lower California, and thence crossed the Gulf and landed in Sonora. General Castro, after disbanding the force under his command, took the road, with a small number of adherents, for Sonora, over the Colorado River route. Some little effort was made to capture both him and Gov- ernor Pico, but they made good ihcir escape. "On the 13th of July Fremont and Stockton met, and 4i logctlicr inarclicd to Los Angeles, and on tlic 15th entered the city. On the 22d of Angiist, so says the Secretary of the Navy, 'the flag of the United States was flying at every commanding position, and California was the undisputed military possession of the United States.' " Revolt in Los Angeles. — On the 5th of September Stock- ton left for San Francisco, calling on his way at Santa Barbara for the soldiers he had left as a garrison, with the purpose of soon sailing south on an expedition to Mazatlan or Acapulco, "where, if possible, he intended to land and fight his way as far on to the City of Mexico as he could." Fremont was to be left as Military Governor of California in his absence, and he was also to go north and see how many men he could induce to join Stockton in his endeavor. A few days after Stockton sailed, Fre- mont started for the Sacramento River region, leaving Lieutenant of Marines A. H. Gillespie in command at Los Angeles. On the 23rd of September, Cevol Varelas, a na- tive of Los Angeles, attacked the Americans — only seven- teen men — who were soon in a state of siege on Fort Hill. There they remained until the 30th, when, seeing no way of raising the siege, and expecting no relief, Gillespie signed articles of capitualation, and retreated with his men to San Pedro, where they were taken on board the American merchant ship Vandalia. The Mexican flag was once more raised in Los Angeles. News of this revolt reached Stockton, and Captain Mer- vine, commanding the L^. S. frigate Savannah, was ordered to proceed at once to San Pedro to protect American in- terests at Los Angeles. On the 6th of October he reached San Pedro, and on the 7th he and Gillespie landed, with a force of about five hundred men. They were met at the rancho of flannel Dominguez, about midway between San Pedro and Los Angeles, by the insurgents under the command of Jose Antonio Carrillo and Jose Maria 43 Flores, who attacked witli so much spirit and energy, that, after a battle of several hours' duration, in which the Americans lost four of their men and several wounded, Mervine retreated to his vessel at San Pedro. Effect of American Defeat. — -The news of this defeat of the Americans, caused many of the Californians through- out the whole of the State to revolt, break their parole, and join with the refractory spirits who refused to ac- knowledge American supremacy. At San Diego, Santa Barbara and elsewhere the U. S. flag was pulled down. These proceedings aroused Stockton to the importance of devoting his attention to the Mexicans in California, rather than organizing an expedition to harass them in Mexico, so he vigorously forwarded matters for securing absolute domination. As an interesting account of the difficulty he had to procure arms, the following from Davis' "Sixty Years in California" is worthy a place : "Small arms of all kinds were very scarce in the country, and Stockton was desirous of collecting all he could for his proposed expedition. One morning a mid-shipman from the Congress presented the commodore's complim.ents, and said the commodore desired me to purchase for him a quantity of small arms, pistols, rifles, etc. I sent out several of my clerks to the little shops, bar-rooms, and all the places in Yerba Buena (now San Francisco) where it seemed probable any arms could be found, and collected a considerable number, many of which were obtained from the Mormons, who had recently arrived. The arms were turned over to Commodore Stockton, who paid for them, and also thanked me for the service." General Edward Beale, tiicn a mid-shipman, was sent up the Sacramento River, with a fleet of boats, to bring seventy good men, well armed, and with their linrsc equip- ments ready for scr\-ice when hnrsc-^ i-mild be foimd to mount them." 44 Stockton sailed in tlic Congress, intending to go direct to San Pedro. Fremont, in the Sterling, was to land at Santa Barbara and suppress the uprising there. On his way South, Stockton fell in with the merchant ship Barn- stable, which had dispatches for him informing him thnt Monterey was in danger, and asking his immediate aid. He, therefore, landed fifty men, two officers, and some ar- tillery as a reinforcement, and then continued to Santa Barbara, where, not finding Fremont, he went on to San Pedro. At this place the successful Californians "col- lected in large bodies on all the adjacent hills, and would not permit a hoof except their own horses to be within fifty miles of San Pedro." Stockton, however, landed, took possession of San Pedro, and once more hoisted the U. S. flag. For several days he waited here for the arrival of Fremont, but the same difficulty of procuring horses hav- ing arrested that official's progress southward, he had gone back to Monterey, sent for horses and soon started on a mounted march through the interior. Stockton, knowing nothing of this delay, which, however, he might easily have anticipated from his own difficulties, re-embarked his men and sailed for San Diego. Here again he was hampered by the same obstacles in the way of procuring horses. The Californians drove away all except their own, and with their own, and with their skilled horsemanship, kept up a a guerilla warfare upon the forces of Stockton that was galling in the extreme. Accordingly he sent a vessel down the coast of Lower California to procure horses and mules, which service was accomplished by the good offices of Senor Bandini. one of the native Californians of San Diego, who, however, had shown himself friendly to the Americans. Arrival of General Kcaniy. — About this time it was re- ported to the Commodore that the enemy was encamped a few miles away from San Diego, and consisted of only 45 fifty men. Giilespie was ordered to "surprise" them. Dur- ing his preparations, an English resident of California, a Mr. Stokes, brought a letter to Stockton from Brigadier- General S. W. Kearny, who had just reached by over- land journey, the frontier of inhabited California, asking for "a party to open a communication" with him as speed- ily as possible. Gillespie was accordingly sent to Kearny and "on the day but one following his departure from San Diego, he met General Kearny about one o'clock in the afternoon, in the mountains between Santa Maria and Santa Ysabel, and put himself at his orders." Kearny learning from Gillespie of the near proximity of the Californians decided to at- tack, and, if possible, surprise them. Battle of Sa)i Pascital. — The attack was made Dec. 6, 1846, and seriously repulsed. Captain Turner reporting Gen- eral Kearny wounded. Captains Monroe and Johnson killed. Lieutenant Hammond dangerously wounded, in all "about eighteen killed and fourteen or fifteen wounded." This was not all of the disheartening report. It was after- wards found that "General Kearny and his whole force were besieged on a small hill of rocks, and so surrounded by the enemy that it was impossible for them to escape unless immediate assistance was sent to them ; that all their cattle had been taken away from them and that they were obliged to eat their mules." Don Andres Pico, brother of Governor Pio Pico, was in command of the Californians. Relief was sent to the besieged party, and on the 12th of December, General Kearny arrived at San Diego. Dr. Griffin's Diary. — Dr. John S. Griffin, Assistant Sur- geon, U. S. A., attached to the command of General Kearny, kept a diary of the march into California, the battle with Pico's forces and subsequent events, and from published extracts of this record we reprint the following: 46 "icS46 — Novcnihcr 22.~\Vc discovered llic trail of a lar^L body of horse. Kit Carson saw tlic tracks of women on the sand. Licntenant Emory went out with a party of twenty men, and about 12J/2 i'. M., brought in three or four Mexicans, from whom we learned that they were a party of traders, or rather refugees from California to Sonora. They had five hundred horses and mules. They told us of Flores ; that Roudbidoux was a prisoner; ad- vised us not to lose time, as our presence would be of great benefit to our countrymen. (I think, not many minutes will be lost.) * * * Our men are nearly naked and barefooted, their feet sore, and leg-weary. Only the sick have been allowed to ride lately. We are a mile and a half above the mouth of the Gila. "23d. — A child born to-night, in the Mexican camp. We all contributed tea, sugar, and cofifee to the mother. "24th. — Lieutenants Emory and Warner (Topographical Engineers), while out making observations, came across a Mexican in the bottom; searched him, and found several letters addressed to Castro. Crossed the Colorado River, so as to take the desert to-morrow. ******* "December 2d. — About 4 p. ai. arrived at Warner's — the extreme frontier settlement of California. He is living very comfortably; seems to have plenty of cattle, horses and sheep, and certainly has a fine range for them. An Irish- man there informed us * * * that there were detached parties of the enemy between us and San Diego, and that a Mexican force, escorting prisoners out of the country to Mexico, would probably arrive in our neighborhood to- night. "3rd. — This is called Agua Caliente — a boiling spring — a vineyard. We obtained some of the grapes dried ; they were nearly as sweet as raisins, and of finer flavor; also, watermelons from the Indians. Last night had a visit 47 from an Englishman, by name Stokes; he has remained neutral during the difficulties. He consented to carry a letter to Commodore Stockton, at San Diego. About one p. M., Lieutenant Davidson returned with some hundred young mules and horses, the major portion utterly worthless to us. '■''■ * * Rain all day. Camped at Stokes' Ranch in the evening — Santa Ysabel. "4th. — This was a Mission; the buildings much better than at ^^'arner's ; everything of neater appearance. An Indian village v;as near the house. The Chief made a speech to the General last evening, in which he declared his wish not to engage in war in any manner, but that he was perfectly willing to go to work. The General advised him to keep at peace and work hard, and he would be well treated. Stokes seems to have a large stock. His Major-domo gave the officers a supper. He gave the General information of a party of Mexicans at some mis- sion on our road, with 500 animals. "Stli. — Marched from Stokes' Ranch with Senor Bill — William Williams — the Major-domo, for guide. He drank pretty freely the night before; chasing wild horses, pres- ently he was thrown, and said he would go no further. The General had him mounted on a mule, with two of the guard by his side. Bill took us once on the wrong road, but soon corrected the mistake. After a few miles we met Captain Gillespie's party, from San Diego — 35 men and one four-pounder. They soon encamped. We marched about 10 miles, to a grove of live oak, with no water, except that which was falling from the heavens. It rained heavily. A party of the enemy being reported in our vicinity, it was first determined that Captain Moore should take sixty men and make a night attack. For some reason the General altered his mind, and sent Lieutenant Hammond, with three men, to reconnoitre. Hammond found the enemy at 48 sonic ten miles distant, Ijiit was discovered. As lie gal- loped off with his parly, the Mexicans gave three cheers. "December 6th. — At two i*. M. we were all afoot, and expected to surprise the Mexicans. Although we had rain all night our arms were not reloaded; but 'boots and saddles' was the word, and off we went — in search of ad- venture. Two miles from camp we overtook Gillespie's company, which fell in in the rear. Major Swords was left back with the baggage and thirty men. Another party remained behind with Gillespie's four-pounder. This re- duced our fighting men to eighty-five, all told. With these and two howitzers we marched forward. The morning was excessively cold. We felt it the more, as most of us were wet to the skin. Passing over a mountain, and travel- ing as near as I can judge ten or eleven miles, we came in sight of the enemy's fires. "We marched down the mountain. So soon as we arrived on the flat below, the shout and charge commenced from the advance. After running our jaded and broken-down mules and horses about three-fourths of a mile the enemy opened fire on us. The balls whistled by awhile, but the light was not sufficient for me to distinguish anything like a line of the enemy; on my left, however, there was a con- siderable flashing of guns. In a few minutes the enemy broke, and we found that they had made a stand in front of an Indian Rancheria, called San Pascual. Day was just breaking. At this moment a Mexican dashed by; Lieuten- ant Beale, of the navy, fired several shots, and he fell. Another man galloped by — he had a Mexican look ; a dra- goon pistol was fired at him without effect, and the dragoon was about to cut him down with a sabre, when I recognized him as one of Gillespie's party. By this time we were much disordered. Some of our men had fast horses, others poor, broken down horses and mules. Captain Moore, 49 liowcver, ordered the charge further ; it was made hurly- hurly — not more than ten or fifteen men in line, and not forty altogether. On they went. The enemy continued the retreat for about half a mile, when they rallied, and came at us like devils, with their lances. Mounted on swift horses, and most of our firearms having been dis- charged or missed fire, from the rain of the night before, our advance was at their mercy. Our men wheeled, and a howitzer having been brought up near, rallied on the gun, and drove off the enemy. "Hammond was the first wounded man I saw. He had been in the advance with Moore, and had a lance wound on the left side, between the eighth and ninth ribs. I told him to go a little further to the rear and I would attend to him. Separated at this moment from him the General saw me, told he was wounded, and wished my services. In a few moments Captains Gillespie and Gibson, and others, were found to be wounded. Captain Johnston, who led the first charge, was killed by a gun-shot. I was told he was the only one who received any injury from gun-shot. Moore was killed leading the second charge ; and Hammond, it was said (and so he told me), in attempting to rescue Moore. One of Emory's party was killed, by the name of Menard ; also, one of Gillespie's men ; two Sergeants, "one Corporal, and eleven privates, of dragoons, and one missing, supposed to be killed. We lost one of our howitzers — the mules were wild and ran off with the piece. Of the three men with it, one was killed, the other two desperately wounded. Upon the whole, we had wounded : four officers, one Sergeant, one Corporal, ten privates, and Mr. Roubi- doux, interpreter. Total killed and wounded, thirty-eight. And I should not think there were to exceed fifty men who saw the enemy. We took two prisoners. "This was an action wherein decidedly more courage 50 lli.'iii cnndiut was sliown. Tlic first charge was a mistake on the part of Captain Johnston; the second, on the part of Captain Moore. "We drove tlic enemy from tiie field and encamped. "December 7lh.— Marched and took possession of a hill in front of the house of San Bernardo Rancho, after a brief contest for it. The wounded were carried in six ambulances. I sent word to General Pico that I would be most happy to attend to his wounded. He replied that he had none. "Made exchange of one prisoner for another. On ac- count of the wounded the General consented to remain. Lieutenant Beale and Kit Carson were sent with dispatches to Commodore Stockton. We burnt all the baggage, in order to have as little encumbrance as possible; dismounted the men, and determined to perform the rest of the march on foot. The enemy hovering around, but careful not to come within gun-shot. "9th. — In camp ; nothing going on : the enemy parading about on the hills on the other side of the valley. We are reduced to mule meat. "loth. — Sergeant Cox died this morning. If reinforce- ments are not sent we march in the morning, at all hazards. Our animals were grazing quietly at the foot of the hill near camp. At a distance we could see a party of Mexicans driving a band of wild horses toward us. Within half an hour they came on at full speed, intending thus a stampede. Certainly a beautiful sight as they approached nearer. W'aiting awhile, and not coming within gun-shot, our ani- mals were driven out of the way, and by a shout the wild horses were turned — only one mule getting within gun-shot (with a great hide tied to the tail), which was struck, I was told, by forty balls, and finally butchered. A Godsend to us, this being very fat. The General ordered all things 51 to be in readiness for marching in the morning. We all went to bed firmly convinced that we should have to fight our way into San Diego. "ith. — About tv>'0 o'clock a. m., the sentinel heard a body of armed men approaching. They were hailed, and, to our great joy, found to be friends sent to our relief from San Diego. They mustered 200 strong — 80 marines and 100 sailors. Captain Zielan in charge of the marines, Lieutenant Gray of the whole detachment. Immediately our beds were vacated, and surrendered to our tired comrades. Awaking at daylight they found mule soup ready. In turn, they emptied the contents of their haversacks, consisting of jerked beef and bread, and all made a first rate breakfast. The Jack Tars seemed highly delighted with the new role of 'soldiers,' discontented only with the enemy for not hav- ing given them a fight before reaching camp. Early in the morning we started for the Rancho Penasquitos (little stones). The hill sides were well set with wild oats, two or three inches above the surface, green as a wheat field. Collected a hundred head of cattle to-day, in fine condition ; and at the ranch picked up a hundred sheep and a barrel of wine (for the sick and wounded). A plentiful supper, and a good night's rest. "I2th.— All arose, freshened with the idea of to-day finish- ing this long and weary march. Reached San Diego about four p. M. We received the warmest welcome and kindest attention from our naval friends. Everything, so far as it had been in power of the Surgeon of the post, had been prepared for our wounded. The Congress and Portsmouth were at anchor in the bay, and the town was garrisoned by their crews and marines." The Force That Met Kearny. — It was from Los Angeles that the force originated which so effectively repulsed General Kearny's attack. The Los Angeles County Cen- tennial History says: — "Late in October, Don Leonardo 52 Cota, at (lie head of one luiiulred nifii, raised in and around Los Angeles, marched for San Diego, of which port Com- modore Stockton, in the frigate Congress, a short time be- fore had taken possession. After an unimportant demon- stration on tlie Old Presidio hill, and a trifling skirmish at the Mission San Diego, he withdrew to the little valley of Soledad, twelve miles north of the town, near enough to avail himself of any opportunity that might offer to renew the attack. His officers were Enrique Abila, Ramon Car- rillo, Jose Maria Cota, Carlos Dominguez, Nicholas Her- mosillo ( a Sonoranian), all of this city; Jose Alipaz of San Juan Capistrano, and Ramon O. Suna of San Diego. Meanwhile a Commission that had been sent by Flores to Castro, in Sonora, had dispatched information to Los An- geles, that a large body of armed men had been seen on the river Gila. In consequence of this report, about November twenty-second, General Andres Pico was sent, with one hundred men, to protect Cota and oppose the entry of any hostile force. General Pico first took post at San Luis Rey Mission; finally moved to the pretty valley of San Pascual. He then had eighty men ; having lost some stragglers, but gained reinforcements of ten from San Diego county, among them Don Leandro Osuna. His officers were Cap- tain Juan Bautista Moreno, Tomas A. Sanchez, Pablo Vejar, Manuel Vejar, and others. The reader will not confound this point with the Rancho of San Pascual, about twelve miles from the City of Los Angeles, where sub- sequently, about the date of the Cahuenga negotiation, General Pico had a camp. San Pascual of battle memory is thirty-four miles northeast from the City of San Diego, close to the foot of the mountains. This was one of the three Indian pueblos established after the secularization of the Missions. It had then a small population, originally of emancipated Neophytes of the Mission of San Diego, who have been reduced in numbers during the last thirty years. 53 Tt exists still, but misses the governing hand of "Old Panto," who died many years ago. Battle of San Gabriel. — On the 27th of December Stock- ton and Kearny left San Diego for San Luis Rey on their way to quell the disturbances at Los Angeles. Says one of the ofificers of the party : "Our line of march lay through a rough and mountainous country of nearly one hundred and fifty miles, with impediments on every side, and constant apprehensions of an attack from the enemy; our progress was nevertheless rapid ; and though per- formed mostly by sailor troops, would have done credit to the best disciplined arm}-. "In the morning of the 8th of January, 1847, we found ourselves, after several days' hard marching and fatigue, in the vicinity of the river San Gabriel ; on the north side of which the enemy had fortified themselves to the num- ber of five hundred mounted men, with four pieces of artillery, under the command of General Flores." Jose Maria Flores was a paroled military officer, who had fied from Los Angeles after helping foment the distur- bances which eventuated in Gillespie's capitulation and re- treat, and he was now the principal officer of the Califor- nians, — the insurgents as they were termed. Quite a num- ber of those who joined with him were also paroled, al- though a large number joined the ranks in good faith. All writers agree that they had just cause to feel aggrieved. Commodore Stockton and Captain Gillespie, without due regard to the character, disposition and former habits of life of the native Californians, imposed galling and un- necessary restraints upon them. "Among the police regu- lations laid down by Commodore Stockton were two which jarred against all the instincts of this people. These two were, first, that any one who wished to be out of his house before sunrise must have a pass from Captain Gillespie, the commandant of the district. And, second, that any per- 54 sons who wished lo carry arms for protection to them- selves and servants, must have a written pass from the same aiitliority." These and other ill-advised measures provoked a genera! resistance to the Americans, and gave to the acts of Florcs all the color of a popular uprising against the foreign oppressors. To return now to San Gabriel, where the opposing forces met. Florcs was on the northwest side of the river. Stockton approached from the southwest. Flores' posi- tion was "so commanding, that it seemed impossible to gain any point by which our troops could be protected from their galling fire. On reaching the south side of the river the Commodore dismounted, forded the stream, and com- manded the troops to pass over, which they did promptly under the brisk fire of the enemy's artiller>'. He ordered the artillery not to unlimber till the opposite bank should be gained; as soon as this was effected, he ordered a charge direct in the teeth of the enemy's guns, which soon resulted in the possession of the commanding position they had just occupied." Another writer says: "During the engagement, one of the artillerymen was killed by a shot from the enemy, while firing his gun. Stockton, who was near by, immediately took charge of the gun, and so accurate was his aim that he did marked execution in the enemy's ranks." Indeed, as the former writer declares, this shot "overthrew the enemy's gun, which had just poured forth its thunder in our midst." To again quote William Heath Davis : "Twenty-five or thirty of the Cali- fornians were killed, and a great many wounded ; while Stockton's loss did not exceed ten killed, with a few wounded. Califoniiaiis' Mode of Warfare. — "Doubtless the actual number of the Californians killed will never be known, tlicy having concealed their loss, not being willing to make a statement in regard thereto. Manv more of the Califor- 55 nians would have been killed and wounded during their charges upon Stockton's force, but for skillful maneuvers in horsemanship which they employed in making their attacks. Forcing their horses forward, in approaching Stockton's line, every horseman in their ranks threw him- self over to one side, bending far down, so that no part of his body, except one leg, appeared above the saddle. When the columns met and the horseman was required to use the lance or do other cfifective service, he remained but a few seconds in the saddle, and in the retreat he threw him- self over along the side of the horse, and rode rapidly in that position, guiding the steed skillfully at the same time. By these tactics the cavalry of the enemy avoided present- ing themselves as conspicuous marks for the riflemen. "Stockton had three or four hundred head of beef cattle which he had brought from San Diego, or had gathered along the route, for the use of the army. In forming the square to receive the attacks of the Californians, the cattle were placed within the lines, and also his baggage, wagons and supplies. "The enemy made desperate attempts to break through at the point where the cattle were stationed, but without success. "It might seem difficult to keep a large body of rodeo cattle within the military square during the progress of a battle. But the animals were placed in charge of the mounted Californians of Stockton's force. They were rancheros and were thoroughly familiar with the handling of stock ; they made it their duty to see that the cattle were kept intact on this occasion. The creatures gradually be- came accustomed to movements of the army, and were held in place even during the discharge of cannon and small arms. Stockton's infantry and artillery repulsed the at- tacks, and he managed the animals so well that no part of his square was broken on any side. The Californians, 56 Ihiding that our army was too powerful for them, finally withdrew from the field." To take up the story from another narrator, previously quoted : "We encamped on the spot for the night. The next day we met the enemy again on the plains of the Mesa, near the city. They made a bold and resolute stand; tried our lines on every side; and maneuvered their artillery with much skill. But the firm and steady courage with which our troops continued to defend themselves, repelled their attempts at a general charge, and we found ourselves again victorious. We encamped again near the battle ground and on the morning of the loth marched into the city (of Los Angeles), while the adjacent hills were glistening with the lances of the enemj'." Entrance Into Los Angeles. — "The army passed from the river into Main street, near the old 'Celis House,' thence up Main street to the Plaza. Two guns, with a couple of hundred men, were stationed on the hill over- looking Main street ; the rest quartered as comfortably as possible." Thus occurred the Battle of the San Gabriel, called by the Californians Curunga, and the Battle of the Laguna, or the Mesa, as it is sometimes called. Uprising at Santa Barbara. — Let us now for a brief time leave Flores outside and the Americans in possession once more of Los Angeles and return to Colonel Fremont. We left him starting from the North, with his mounted bat- talion, aiming to join forces with Stockton in the South. But before this history is given, let me briefly recount the events which took place, in consequence of the revolt, in Santa Barbara. When Fremont \vent up the coast in September he left at Santa Barbara ten men, at the request of the citizens, who felt they would be safer with even a small guard, in the event of any disorder. Theodore Talbot was left in charge. .\ few days afterwards the news of the 57 rising in Los Angeles reached Santa Barbara, and Talbot was advised to leave or be and his men would be attacked. The Californians soon assembled, and a mounted force of one hundred and fifty men, with a written summons from Flores. called upon them to surrender. They refused, and determined to escape to the mountains under cover of night. They started, — the moon shining — and soon ap- proached a small picket-guard. This gave way and let them pass. "They then gained the mountains and relied on their rifles to keep off both men and cavalry. On the mountain they stayed eight days, in sight of Santa Barbara, watching for some American vessel to approach the coast. They suffered greatly for want of food, and attempted to take cattle or sheep in the night, but for want of a lasso, could only get a lean old white mare, which was led up on the mountain and killed, and all eaten up. Despairing of relief by sea, and certain that they could not reach me in the North by going through the settled country, they undertook to cross the mountains nearly east, into the San Joaquin Valley, and through the Tulare Indians. Be- fore they left their camp in the mountains the Californians attempted to burn them out by starting fires on the moun- tain around them, and once sent a foreigner to urge them to surrender. The enemy did not often venture near enough to be fired upon, but would circle round on the heights and abuse them. When they had any chance of hitting they fired, and once saw a horse fall. It took them three days to cross the first ridge of the mountains, during which time they had nothing but rosebuds to eat. The ascent was so steep, rocky and bush}-, that at one time it took them half the night to gain some three hundred yards. After crossing the first mountain they fell in with an old Spanish soldier at a rancho, who gave them two horses and some dried beef and became their guide over the inter- vening mountains, about eighty miles wide, to the San Joa- 58 quill Valley. Tlicy followed that valley down towards the Monterey settlements, where they joined me"; says Fre- mont, "being about thirty-four days from Santa Barbara and having traveled about five hundred miles." l-rciiiont's March. — At the end of November, with four hundred and thirty mounted and well armed men, Fremont moved from the region of San Juan Bautista Mission, near Monterey, and took up the line of march for Los Angeles. Tlie march was made under difficult circumstances. This was one of the severe winters. Snow fell deep on the mountains, and in the low country traveling in large bodies of men was made hard and difficult by prolonged easterly storms, during which cold rains flooded the country. This was the Avinter of the dreadful disaster at Donner Lake. Consequently the poor fellows had a terrible journey, "Winter weather and cold rain-storms for days together ; the roads and trails muddy ; the animals weak for want of food ; the strength of the old grass washed out by the rains, and the watery new grass without sustenance. Many of the horses, too weak for use, fell out by the way and were left behind, and part of the battalion were soon on foot." "Their only provision was the beef which were driven along, but this was good, and the men were in fine healtli. Only men inured to such a life could have en- dured it. Fremont's own men had that long training, and so, also, had the emigrants who had joined them." Don Icsus Pico. — On the 14th of December, they en- camped on the momitain near San Luis Obispo. It was a rainy night, but at nine o'clock they stole upon the mission buildings, surrounded them, and captured the few people found there. The battalion was quartered in the old mis- sion, a regular guard being placed over the altar and church property. Thirty other captures were made in the cit}', among them Don Jesus Pico, a cousin of Don .\ndres Pico, who had defeated Kearny at San Pascual. Jesus 59 Pico had broken his parole and was at the head of the Californians at San Luis Obispo. He was brought before a court-martial and sentenced to be shot. At the hour for liis execution the soldiers were drawn up in the plaza. At that moment a lady in black, followed by a group of chil- dren, entered the room of Colonel Fremont, the windows of which overlooked the operations outside. It was the wife of Pico who came to plead for the life of her husband. Fremont listened to her, and then sent for Pico. "He came in," says the Colonel, "with the gray face of a man expect- nig death, but calm and brave, while feeling it so near. He was a handsome man, within a few years of forty, with black eyes and black hair. I pointed through the window to the troops paraded in the square. He knew why they were there. 'You were about to die,' I said, 'but your wife has saved you. Go and thank her !' "He fell on his knees, made on his fingers the sign of the cross, and said: 'I was to die — I had lost the life God gave me — you have given me another life. I devote the new life to you!' And he did it faithfully." Pico accompanied Fremont on his march south, and re- mained with him until he left California. Fremont at Santa Barbara. — On Christmas Eve the bat- talion encamped on the ridge of Santa Ynez behind Santa Barbara. "The morning of Christmas broke in a darkness of southeasterly storm with torrents of cold rain which swept the rocky face of the precipitous mountain down which v.-e descended to the plain. All traces of trails were washed away by the deluge of water and pack animals By the decree of Secularization all this was scattered and now nothing" but the dilapidated ruins remain of the once proud and flourishing mission of San Diego. To reach the mission the visitor can proceed direct to San Diego, on the Surf Line of the Santa Fe System, and there engage a carriage to drive him out. The distance is some five or six miles from the city. A good pedestrian may ride on either the Santa Fe or the "Old Town" rail- way from San Diego to the Old Town, or on the electric car to its terminus, then from either of these places walk to the Mission and back, but a good day is required for such a iournev. San Carlos Borromeo. — The next Mission to be founded was that of San Carlos Borromeo, at Monterey, on June 3, 1770. San Antonio Dc Padua. — On July 14, 1771, San Antonio de Padua, the third Mission, was established. San Gabriel Archangel. — Two months later, viz., on Sep- tember 8, 1871, San Gabriel Archangel was founded. Pa- dres Benito Cambon and Angel Somero were of the new band of missionaries who had been sent on from Mexico to aid Padre Serra, and they left San Diego August 6, 1 771, accompanied by ten soldiers and muleteers, to found a mission which they intended to dedicate to their patron Saint, San Gabriel the Archangel. For days they moved "I slowly tlirdiigli a cfxmlry dcnsfly covi-rcd with cactu-. until tlicy reached the hanks of the Santa Ana river, when it liad I)een determined hy tlic Governor, when the first ex pedition ])asscd through the region, a mission should Ic established. After a careful search, and the fathers find- ing no suitable site, they moved further north and west to f . --^i^^^ i..:s_ -y^AL^i^ the San IMiguel River, now known as the San Gabriel, and there founded the Mission. The original site is still marked by a few adobe ruins, and can be reached by driving from Los Angeles, or, better still, Whittier or Rivera. The lo- cation at that time was known as the Indian village of Sihanga. About the year 1775, the erection of the present building was begun and the old Mission deserted. It wa- 75 fully Iwenty-five years before it was completed, together with the commodious residence of the Padres, and then more than 4,000 Indian neophytes had been baptized. The first baptism of an Indian child was on November 27, 1771. In two years the number of converts was T>)^ and in 1784 there were 1,019 enrolled on the baptismal register. Here in 1806, came from San Fernando, Padre Jose Maria Zalvidea, under whose wise and skilful management '^SJk^ Ruined Corridors at San Juan Capistrano. the mission rapidly grew into great prosperity and wealth. This was the Padre, whose name "H. H.," the writer of '"Ramona" incorrectly caught, and, spelling it Salvierderra, made him her priestly hero. The building is a quaint old structure, without nuich architectural pretension, with a peculiar "bell tower," in which four bells are now hung, one of them not being as perfect as in ''days of yore." The Padre's house is a cozy little cottage to the left of the Mission, as one stands facing it, and is beautifully embowered in sweet flowers. San Gabriel still has a fairly large population of Mexi- cans, consequently, and for the religious benefit of the old California families who are of that ancient faith, the Church is kept in a good state of repair, and regular service conducted therein. San Gabriel is reached in a variety of ways. One may easily drive from Los Angeles or Pasadena and take in a number of other interesting historical scenes on the way. The Southern Pacific R. R., — the main line from Los An- geles to Yuma, — passes the old Mission, and the ancient ., ^^f '■■■■ ^'-::riS^^y^^ structure is but a few minutes' walk from the depot. The distance from Los Angeles is 9 miles, the fare, single trip, 30 cents; round trip, 55 cents, and a little over half a day will suffice for the journey and return. The easiest way is to take the cars of the Pacific Electric Railway from cor. 6th and Main streets, Los Angeles. Round trip, 30 cents. San Luis Obispo dc Tolosa. — Just one year later (less one week), after the founding of San Gabriel Archangel, viz., on September i, 1772, Padre Serra established the Mission of San Luis Obispo de Tolosa. San Francisco dc Asis. — Four years and sixteen days elapsed after the founding of San Luis Obispo, and then n the Mission of San Francisco de Asis, on Oct. 9, 1776, was formally dedicated. San Juan Capistrano. — A month later, Nov. i, 1776, San Juan Capistrano was founded by President Serra, aided by Padres Mugartegui and Amurrio. In the preceding year Padres Lasuen and Amurrio with a few soldiers were sent out from Monterey to seek a location for the estab- lishment of a new Mission, to bear the name of San Juan Capistrano. Padre Amurrio remained at San Gabriel, his coadjutor going on alone, and on October 30th, he found a desirable spot, where a cross was erected, a hut built of boughs of trees, and Mass celebrated. The Indians were friendly, aiding the newcomers in the cutting down of timber for the building, and matters progressed happily. Eight days later Padre Amurrio arrived with provisions, etc., from San Gabriel, and all were filled with joy at the happy inauguration of the new endeavor. That evening, however, terrible news was received by messenger from San Diego. The Indians had revolted, slain Padre Jayme, and destroyed the Mission buildings. The officer in charge of the soldiers left immediately for San Diego. The Padres buried the bells, and taking the other material they had with them along, speedily followed the . soldiers. What they found at San Diego has already been recounted. This terrible affair delayed the founding of San Juan Capistrano for about one year. The Viceroy wrote from Mexico, April 3, 1776, that he had given orders to his officers to establish the Mission. Captain Rivera, who, for some reason seemed opposed to the establishment of the new Mission, was ordered, in a subsequent letter, to give Padre Serra the help he needed, so he detailed ten of the military, and with these, and accompanied by Padres Mugartegui and Amurrio "he proceeded to the place where the bells had been buried, and with the usual ceremonies founded the Mission of San Juan Capistrano." 78 Scir.i, with tin- ;iiJf' ^ ^>.. , Gabriel. On his way to San Gabriel, Serra passed through the Indian villages of the Channel region, and could not refrain from joyfully communicating the news to the In- dians that, very speedily, he would return to them, and establish Missions in their midst. I have often wondered, and still wonder, what the thoughts of the Indians were, as this man— benignant, energetic, devout — talked with them and revealed his purposes towards them. Who can tell? In the evening of March 18, Serra reached Los Angeles, and next evening, after walking to San Gabriel, weighed down with his many cares, and weary with his long walk, 82 lie still prcaclicd an excellent sermon, it Ijcing the feast of the patriarch St. Joseph. Father Cambon had arrived, and after due consultation with him and the Governor, the date for the setting out of the expedition was fixed for Tuesday, March 26th. The week was spent in confirma- tion services, and other religious v/ork, and, on the date named, after solemn mass, the party set forth. It was the most imposing procession ever witnessed in California up to that time, and called forth many gratified remarks from Serra. There were seventy soldiers, with their captain, commander for the new presidio, ensign, sergeant, and corporals. In full gubernatorial dignity, followed Governor Neve, with ten soldiers of the Monterey com- pany, their wives and families, servants and neoph3^tes. At midnight they halted, and a special messenger over- took them with news which led the Governor to return at once t© San Gabriel with his ten soldiers. He ordered the procession to proceed, however, found the San Buena- ventura Mission, and there await his return. Serra ac- cordingly went forward, and on the 29th inst., arrived at "Assumpta." Here, the next day, on the feast of Easter, they pitched their tents, "erected a large cross and prepared an altar under a shade of evergreens," where the venerable Serra, now soon to close his life work, blessed the cross and the place, solemnized mass, preached a sermon to the soldiers on the Resurrection of Christ, and formally dedi- cated the Mission to God, and placed it under the patronage of St. Joseph. In the earlier part of this century the Mission began to grow rapidly. Padres Francisco Dumetz and Vicente de Santa Maria, who had been placed in charge of the Mis- sion from the first, were gladdened by many accessions, and the Mission flocks and herds also increased rapidly. Indeed we are told that "in 1802, Ventura possessed finer herds of cattle and richer fields of grain than anv of her 83 contemporaries, and her gardens and orchards were visions of wealth and beauty." As one looks at the old walls he recalls when a fierce battle raged around them. In March, 1838, the opposing forces of Carrillo and Alvarado met there, and Laura Bride Powers in her "Story of the Old Missions of Cali- fornia," graphically states that "during the bombardment a rifleman stationed in the church tower fired a deadly shot into the ranks of the enemy, felling a leader ; forth- with the guns of the opposing forces bore down upon the church, the shot and shell beating against the walls with dogged determination. The din of battle over and the smoke uplifted, the chapel was found to have stood in- \incible. The heavy guns, however, left their marks upon the whitewashed walls in seams and scars, though time, ere this, has almost healed the wounds of battle." San Buenaventura, or Ventura, as this modern, railroad age, has rechristened it, is on the Coast line of the Southern Pacific. The distance from Los Angeles is 83 miles and the rate of fare, single trip, $2.50; round trip, $4.50. Special round trip tickets good for going on Saturday and returning Tuesday, $3.00. Ventura, being the county seat, has several good hotels, where the visitor desiring a lengthy stay can be accommodated. Santa Barbara. — In April of 1782, on the return of Gov- ernor Neve, a party of sixty soldiers, with their officers, set forth to establish the Presidio and Mission of Santa Barbara. When about thirty miles north of San Buena- ventura, in a region thickly populated with Indians, they found a suitable place for a presidio near the beach, and where the shore "gracefully curves and forms a sort of small bay, in which they judged good anchorage would l)e found." A large cross was made and erected, a booth of branches was built for a temporary chapel, containing a rude table 84 for an altar, and then, on the 291 h of April, 1782, the Governor and soldiers assisting. Padre Serra celebrated Mass, preached a sermon, after which Governor Neve took possession of the place in the name of God and the King of Spain. On the following day they began the erection of a chapel, barracks for the soldiers and a storehouse, Serra directing much of the work and giving spiritual instruc- tions to the soldiers at the same time. He waited a few days, expecting the Mission would be immediately founded, but in this he was disappointed. The Governor decided that, for the safety of all concerned, in a place where there were so many Indians, it was essential that the presidio be finished first, so, after sending for a priest from San Juan Capistrano, Serra departed for Monterey, on foot, as usual. Only once again did he see Santa Bar- bara, and the Mission was not yet founded, and full of sadness he cried out in bitter tears : "Pray ye, therefore, the LxDfd of the Harvest, that He send laborers into His vineyard." The good padre died on the 28th of August, 1784, a little before 2 o'clock, p. m., in the seventieth year of his age. Father Palou, the intimate friend and biographer of Serra, was now appointed President of the Missions, but it was not until the 15th of December, 1786, when Padre Fermin Francisco de Lasuen had succeeded him that the Santa Barbara Mission was founded. Governor Pedro Pages had taken the place of Governor Neve, and he, together with a few soldiers, on the date named, accom- panied Padre Lasuen to a spot already chosen, about a mile from the presidio and named by the natives "Tay- nayam," and the Spaniards "El Pedragoso." and there, with appropriate ceremonies, established tlic Mission. Padres Antonio Paterna and Cristobal Ormas were left in charge, but, owing to a severe rainy season, no build- 85 ings were erected until spring of the following year, the priests being sheltered during the meantime in the presidio. Several buildings were then put up — a house for the padres, a kitchen, a servants' room, a granary, and a house for the unmarried women, and also the first small chapel. These were all built of adobe, nearly three feet thick, with roofs of heavy rafters, across which long poles or canes were tied, covered with soft adobe and then thatched with straw. At the end of this year 183 Indians were converted and connected themselves with the Mission. The following year, 1788, these buildings were all tiled, others erected, and the reports show the Indians increased to 307. In 1789, the second church of the Mission was erected, together with other needed buildings. In 1793 was be- gun the erection, finished in 1794, of a large adobe church, containing six chapels. In 1806, a reservoir of stone and mortar was built for storing water for the gardens and orchards. It is still in good condition and is part of the system of the water company which now supplies the city with water. The following year the padres built a strong dam across the "Pedragoso" creek, about a mile and a half above the Mission, from whence the water could flow in an open aqueduct to the mill reservoir. This mill and reservoir were built at the same time, behind the one referred to, which is still in use. The mill is in ruins, and the reservoir partially demolished, but it could easily be repaired and made of good service. In 1813-14 the old church was taken down, and a new stone church commenced in 1815. Five years later, viz., on the lOth day of September, 1820, it was completed, and amid the greatest rejoicing and festivities ever indulged in, in the country, it was formally dedicated and opened. Owing to its prosperity, Santa Barbara was always 86 heavily taxed by the Government, even when under the rule of Spain, but when Mexico declared its independence, it was pUindered on all sides. Money being scarce in those days, as now, a large amount of cattle, sheep or wool was necessary to raise a small amount of ready money. Hence when these excessive and arbitrary demands for money were made, it taxed the resources of the mission to the last degree, and often caused great suflfering to the dependent Indians. Here, as elsewhere, secularization accomplished, some- what, its ruinous work, although the buildings have always been in the possession of the Franciscans, except between San Fernando Mission. the 3'ears 1833 and 1835, and even then they were prac- tically under their control. The Mission passed through various vicissitudes, until 1853 when, a petition having been presented to Rome, it was erected into an Hospice, as the beginning of what was to be an Apostolic College for the education of novi- tiates. Being ecclesiastically isolated from the rest of the United States, and therefore having no means of drawing upon other communities for its novitiates, the Minister-General petitioned that it be changed from an independent college, and annexed to the order throughout the United States. The petition was granted in 1885, and it now forms an integral part of the "Province of the Sacred Heart of Jesus," whose headquarters are in the city of St. Louis, Mo. 87 St 'fS/j*-:-' / "^■'^'^"i^i^UlP* Graveyard and Mortuary Chapel ai San Luis Rey. Thus from educating Indians, the Mission of Santa Barbara has changed into a College for the education of its priests, who may be sent on Missions or to supply any house of the Order as necessity may require. So that, independent of its history, the Alission is most interesting. And when one considers that history he cannot fail to be deeply moved. As he walks in the garden, where but two women, the Princess Louise and Mrs. President Harri- son, have ever been permitted to enter, he thinks of the noble workers of the past, whose bodies lie buried there. And then as 'down through the perfume-laden air, upon the sunbeam's ray. like a vision of the Holy Grail, floats the white-winged dove. Heaven's emblem of purity and peace," the thought will come that "no good and true work can ever be in vain." God allows no good thing to fall, and though the Indians are scattered, through the wicked order of Secularization, He will not suffer His own pur- poses to be moved. The visitor will find Santa Barbara a most interesting 1;^, Mission. The resident padres are kind and obliging, and willingly afford every reasonable facility to tourists to see all objects of interest. Santa Barbara is reached on the Coast line of the Southern Pacific and is five hours' journey from Los Angeles. Fare, single trip, $3.35 ; round trip, $6.05. Round trip special, going Saturday good to return the following Tuesday, $3.50. Distance, no miles. La Purisima Concepcion. — This is the third of the Chan- nel series of Missions so ardently desired by Padre Serra. Originally founded, December 8, 1787, on the Santa Ynez river, it was removed later to Los Berros, across the river. The building was crude and unstable, and, in 1795, it was rapidly falling into decay. Accordingly a new edifice was erected which was dedicated in 1802. Santa Cruz. — Santa Cruz was the next Mission, founded by Padre Lasuen, on the San Lorenzo River, on Sep- tember 25, 1791. La Solcdad. — On October 9th of the same year, a Mission dedicated to "Our Lady of Solitude" was founded, but of its history little is known. San Jose. — On Trinity Sunday, June 11, 1796, or, ac- cording to "H. H." June 11, 1797, in accordance with commands from Mexico, which declared there must be founded in California a Mission dedicated to St. Joseph, the spiritual spouse of the Holy Virgin, Padre Lasuen established this Mission and left Padres Isadoro Bar- cenilla and Augustin ^lerino as missionaries in charge. San Juan Baufista. — In June, 1797, San Juan Bautista was founded, the present ruined church being erected in 1800. San Miguel. — Two leagues west of Santa Barbara, in order to be better able to minster to the Lidians, President Lasuen and Padre Sitjar selected a station on a large rancher ia called "Sagshpileel," and, on July 25, 1797, with 90 the troops from tlie presidio and nuniijrrs of the Indians as witnesses, established the Mission of San Miguel, "the most glorious prince of the heavenly militia." San Fernando. — It was the avowed intention of Serra to establish a complete chain of Missions from San Diego to Monterey. President Lasuen agreed with the idea, and accordingly on September 8, 1/97, after having located friars at San Fernando in the dwellings of the ranchero, he dedicated the Mission to San Fernando, King of Spain, according to instructions he had received from the viceroy of Mexico. The present ruined adobe structure displaced the origi- nal building of rude wood, tules and brush, and, in i8o6, was dedicated, with imposing ceremonies, to King Fernando III., of Spain, who was canonized in 1671 by Pope Clem- ent X. San Fernando Mission is located in a most fertile valley — the granary of Los Angeles county, and speedily became of considerable wealth and consequent importance. The buildings were affected by the earthquake of 1812, and thirty new beams were added to strengthen the wall?. A beautiful tiled corridor, and a large fountain and basin in the courtyard were built, the ruins of which still remain in picturesque attractiveness. Under this corridor on hot days, and by the side of this fountain on cool evenings, the Padres walked and sat and planned and studied and prayed, watching the waving palms, in the distance, and enjoying the beautiful oak and alders close by. Even in its present ruined and dilapidated condition, the semi- tropical trees and the cacti give to San Fernando the ap- pearance of "a portion of Algeria." In 1820 the Mission was in a flourishing condition, her vineyards and grain fields being quite extensive. In 1826 an inventory shows, besides large flocks and herds, that the Padres had merchandise in their warehouse to the vahu 91 AJolie toilJinqe. of fifty thousand dollars, besides ninety thousand dollars in specie. In 1846 the Mission was sold by Pio Pico to Eulogio Cells for fourteen thousand dollars, for the purpose of helping towards the expenses of the war with the United States, although, at the time, the conquest of California was practically complete. The sale was confirmed by the United States Land Commission, and its Mission days were ended. Today San Fernando Mission is in a restored condition. It has been preserved from utter ruin by the work of the Landmarks Club. The Mission is about 14 miles from Los Angeles and is easily reached in less than an hour from that city on the main line of the Southern Pacific, going north. The buildings are in the valley about a mile from the depot, and the visitor can either walk or secure a conveyance in the town. Many people find it more pleasant and agreeable to drive from Los Angeles, and it is a very comfortable day's drive. San Luis Rey de Francia. — In 1798, on the 13th day of June, President Lasuen, assisted by Padres Santiago and Peyri founded the Mission of San Luis Rey de Francia. ' 'Hjv:^•^psf'^- Pi 93 In beauty of site, as well as magniiicence of structure, it is regarded by most people as the "King" of the Mission structures of California. Five padres, especially, in all the older history of the Missions, stand out as the well-beloved of the Indians, and these are Serra, Palou, Crespi, Salvidea, and Peyri, and to the wonderfully persuasive and gentle character of the latter, is undoubtedly owing the great success of San Luis Rey from its inception. Not only was he possessed of the qualities that endeared him to the people, but he was also full of the same zeal as Serra, and possessed of equal administrative ability. The structure he reared was completed in 1802. It stands upon a slight hill, gently rolling upwards from the river and the valley, which is exceedingly fertile, and gave good pasturage to the flocks and herds of the Mission. These doubled about every ten years. In 1826, Peyri had received into the folds of the church two thousand, eight hundred and sixty-nine Indians. "The Mission owned over twenty thousand head of cattle, and nearly twenty thousand sheep. It controlled over two hundred thousand acres of land, and there were raised on its fields in one year three thousand bushels of wheat, six thousand of barley, and ten thousand of corn." In 1834, after the Secularization, San Luis Rey had an Indian population of 35,000, and possessed over 24,000 cattle, 10,000 horses, and 100,000 sheep. It harvested 14,000 fanegas (about an English bushel) of grain, and 200 barrels of wine. "No other Mission had so fine a church. It was one hundred and sixty feet long, fifty wide, and sixty high, with walls four feet thick. A tower at one side held a belfry for eight bells. The corridor on the opposite side had two hundred and fifty-six arches. Its gold and silver ornaments are said to have been superb." 94 Even in its scnii-niiiK-fl crmditinn it is majestic .-iiid im- posing. Over tlic chancel is a perfectly-proportioned dome, and on eacli side, and over the altar, arc beautiful groined arches. Hanging high on the wall, on the right side facing the ai'.dilors, instead of on the left, is a Byzantine wooden pulpit, which is reached by a quaint, narrow stairway from the chancel. In 189J, it was determined to repair the Mission and have it occupied by the Franciscan Order, and for this purpose Father O'Keefc of the Santa Barbara Mission, was sent to San Luis Rey to superintend its restoration. For months the work had been going forward, and on May 12, 1893, the formal dedication of the re-established Mission occurred with all due ceremony. The bishop of the diocese was present, together with the Vicar-General of the Franciscan Order from Mexico, and other dignitaries. The ceremonies were as near as could be made like those of over a century ago, and, in the church, were three old Indian women, who had heard the original dedication services, where Padres Santiago and Peyri were the officiating clergymen. Much has been done, under Father O'Keefe's intelligent supervision, towards arresting the decay of the old build- ings, and so completely restoring them, that they are again suited for Divine worship. A brick kiln occupies a portion of the interior quadrangle, and close by is a modern windmill, pump and water tank — rather incongru- ous they seem, in such a place, and yet useful and necessary. The dome over the chancel has been effectively restored, in accordance with the original designs, and several of the walls repaired with imported brick. But the freight on them was so high that Father O'Keefe began the burning of his own brick, and he is now quite successful. The church has been re-roofed, and excavation of the corridors is now taking place. Opposite the church several wooden buildings have been 9S erected for the occupation of those who came to be trained in the work of the Franciscans, and San Luis Rey, like Santa Barbara, is now educating priests instead of Indian savages. Father O'Keefe is still working upon the restoration plans of San Luis Rey. His desire is to restore the corri- dors and outbuildings to more than their pristine glory and splendor. He is soliciting funds for this work, and as fast as they come in the building is done. To reach San Luis Rey the visitor goes by rail on the Surf Line of the Santa Fe System, to the town of Ocean- side, eighty-five miles from Los Angeles. Single fare, $3.15; round trip, $5.65. On Sundays, returning the same day, a special round trip rate of $3.00, from Los Angeles and return, is given. Going Saturday and returning Mon- day, a round trip ticket may be obtained for $4.00. From here it is four miles drive to the Mission, and all information regarding conveyances will cheerfully be fur- nished by Mr. Peiper, mine host of the Oceanside Hotel. San Antonio de Pala. — When at San Luis Rey, the in- terested visitor should endeavor to drive the eighteen or twenty miles further, necessary to bring him to the pic- turesque structure of San Antonio de Pala. This is a chapel, or branch of San Luis Rey, founded by Padre Peyri for the greater convenience of his beloved Indians, especially those wHo lived in the mountains. There were no buildings for neophytes as at the other Missions ; nothing but a chapel and -a few scattered corrals. All readers of Mission literature are familiar with the picturesque belfry of Pala, crowned with a huge cactus, grown from a seed some passing breeze doubtless lodged in the adobe tower, where nourishing moisture fed it into active life. The two bells, suspended in the little tower, now call the Indians from the surrounding valley to worship, but these are not the original Pala Indians. They are all 96 gone. The new inliahilants are tlic Warner Ranch Indians, removed from that place to Pala in 1903. SiDila }'«cr. — In order to have a mission nearer to the ranchcros of twenty-seven baptized families than Santa Barbara, Padres Jose Calzada and Jose Gutierrez solemnly dedicated a new Mission to St. Agnes, the beautiful virgin ;iiul martyr, on September 17, 1804. ,S(/;/ Rafael. — In 1817, owing to a frightful mortality in San Francisco, Lieutenant Sola suggested that, possibly, a move across the bay, where inland breezes would take the place of ocean winds, might be beneficial to those who were still sick. The suggestion was adopted, and on De- cember 14, 1817, a Mission was founded by Padre Luis Taboada at San Rafael. But little more than a memory remains today of San Rafael Mission. It is reached by the North Coast R. R. from San Francisco. Sail Francisco Solano. — This, tbe last of the Missions, was founded on Passion Sunday, April 4, 1824, and form- ally dedicated to the patron Saint of the Indies — San Francisco Solano. Though earnestly cared for by its founder. Padre Alti- mira, it was but short lived, although the restored building is now in use. Los Angeles. — In 181 1 authority was gained for the erec- tion of a chapel in Los .\ngeles for the benefit of the old soldiers who had long and faithfully served the King of Spain, and in August, 1814, Padre Gil, of San Gabriel, laid and blessed the corner stone. Nothing further, except the laying of the foundation, was accomplished until 1S18, when the site was changed to its present location. In 1819 seven barrels of brandy and five himdred cattle were con- tributed towards the building fund, and by the end of 1820 the walls were raised to the window arches. Los Angeles, at this time, had a population of 650, and an appeal was 97 made to the Governor in 1818, and through him to the viceroy, that the veterans who had spent their manhood's years in fighting for the King, and were now living in Los Angeles, ought not to be deprived of spiritual consolation and instruction any longer. But no priest or chaplain was sent to them. In 1822 or 1823 the chapel was finally com- pleted, and formally dedicated on the 8th of December, 1822. TJie Landmark's Club. — For the preservation of the Mis- sion buildings, a society has been organized, with a number of earnest, active spirits at its head. The object of the Association is "to create a fund to be used for the preserva- tion of the Mission buildings of California." The fee of membership is one dollar per year. President, Charles F. Lummis ; treasurer, A. F. Benton, Los Angeles. ^^-' CHAPTER IV. ToroGKAPHICAL NAMES AN'IJ THEIR ORIGIN. Tlicre is far more of romance and history in the names of a country than superficial thinkers imagine. Names are of vast importance. Some names mean much, either of honor, of glory, of achievement, of shame, of despair, of failure, of grief, of tragedy, of comedy, of poetic or other interest. There is a remarkable and pleasing difference between the topographical names of California and almost every other State of the Union. There is a marked flavor, as distinctly Californian in the names as there is in the climate. There are three different sources of California names, and to those we owe the pleasing diversity. These sources are Indian, Spanish and American. The Indian names, as a rule, come through the Spanish, so that many of them are disguised, yet careful study of their etymology clearly reveals their Indian origin. The following list makes no pretense to completeness and is not exclusively confined to Southern California, but it will undoubtedly aid the traveler to a clearer comprehension of the general subject. PriutoHiiciation. — A little care will soon prevent glaring error in the pronounciation of Indian and Spanish names. It is not conducive to the equanimity of a Californian to listen to a new-comer say : "I propose stopping off at Mo-jay-ve to see the Indians, then I am going to climb Mount San Jack-iii-toc, visit the Jain-a-shazi' Springs, see the ocean at Hcn'-en-emy, go up to the San Joc-a-quin 99 Valley and see San Jo-scy, Ben-ick-ky and Sue-e-soon. Then I want to climb Mounts Ta-mail-pizc, Lonia Pry-et-ta and Tee-john. I forgot I want to see the Pa-jair-o Valley and also the Ka-hew-illa Indians." Do not go into a Mexican or Spanish restaurant and ask for fry-joles and to-mails. Fix well in mind the continental method of pro- nouncing the vowels, thus a is aJi, as in father ; e is eh, or like a in fate; i is like ee in feel; o like o in go; u like oo in fool. H is silent; ; and g before e and i have a sound similar to that of the English h ; s never has the sound of z, but is always like .y.y in hiss. Qu before e and i is like k. II is Hi in William ; fi is like ni in union. There are no diphthongs in Spanish. Every vowel is sounded sepa- rately, thus each vowel gives a new syllable. Words ending in a vowel in the singular have the accent on the syllable next to the last; those ending in a consonant, on the last. Where a vowel is marked with an accent dis- regard any rules and pronounce accordingly. The earliest of all given names except those of the Indians were those given by Vizcaino and his companions as they made their memorable journey up the coast of California in 1602. Although Cabrillo had sailed hither sixty years before, and had given many names to bays, ■islands, points, etc., Vizcaino utterly disregarded what Cabrillo had done and gave new names, most of which remain to the present day. It was on the loth of November, 1602, that Vizcaino's three vessels anchored in the bay that we now call San Diego. Cabrillo had discovered it and called it San Miguel, but, as Vizcaino's flagship was named San Diego, and the 12th of November was that saint's day, it is pos- sible that those were the reasons for so naming it. The islands to the south and west were named Los Coronados. When they reached an anchorage on an island after eiglil clays of figliting against a northwest wind, tlicy called it Santa Calalina (whose day is Novem- ber 25). Before landing on the island they had gone into a bight or open bay on the mainland, which they called San Pedro, his day being November 26. There seems to be confusion, for, say some, if they landed at San Pedro first and that day was November 26, how conies it that they afterwards landed on the island which they named Santa Catalina, though her day is on the 25th? There is no doubt but that they named the island from the time they first saw it, and then, crossing over to the mainland, named the place where they landed San Pedro. As they went through the channel between the mainland and the coast they named it Santa Barbara Channel, and, as her day in the Saint's Calendar is December 4, we may assume that this was the day they entered or anchored in the channel. How it is that St. Nicholas Island was named, I do not know. His day is November 13, which was several days before Vizcaino's vessel left San Diego harbor. December 8 is the day of the Immaculate Conception of the Blessed Virgin, and accordingly we find Point Concepcion a little further north. Fogs prevailed now fo^ a few days but on the 14th a lofty range of mountains was seen, which, had there been no fog, they would un- doubtedly have seen on the 13th, so, as that was her day, . they named the range Sierra de Santa Lucia. Four leagues beyond wdiere they saw the Santa Lucia they named a stream Rio del Carmelo, in honor of the Carmelite friars who were on board. Then, the pines suggested the name of Punta (point) de Pinos, and where they found the excellent bay beyond they named it the Bay of Monterey, in honor of the viceroy who had sent out the expedition. When Serra and his coadjutors came and established their cliain of Missions they gave many names, many, but not all, of which now remain. San Diego, Santa Barbara, Monterey were already named, but San Luis Rey, San Juan Capistrano, and many others were given at this time. Padre Crespi, who kept a diary, recorded the names. Many of them then given did not "stick," but others re- main to-day and doubtless will to the end of time. A place named San Juan Capistrano was reached July i8, 1769, but this was afterwards changed to San Luis Rey. Then came Santa Margarita, now owned by R. O'Neill ; the Santa Ana River and several places whose names are changed. The Santa Clara River and Canyada next re- ceived names, and the site of the present Ventura was called Asuncion. Above what is now Santa Barbara was another Santa Margarita, San Luis Obispo (which was afterwards changed to the present site) La Gaviota, Point Concepcion, San Juan Bautista, and eventually Pajaro and the San Lorenzo River. It was on this trip that, miss- ing Monterey Bay, Crespi and Portala mistaking the old Port of San Francisco which in the earlier days (for half a century) had been located under Point Reyes, named the small bay or ensenada between the mainland and the Farallones after Saint Francisco. As yet the Golden Gate and what is now the Bay of San Francisco had not been discovered. It was first seen by Europeans, the day following, when Ortega, the sergeant of the party, and a few of his men ascended the hills to the north- east, expecting that way to be able to reach Point Reyes. Soon began the actual founding of the Missions and many places date from this period. San Carlos Borromeo was established at Monterey, in 1770, San Antonio de Padua in 1771. In 1771 or 1772 Serra changed tlie site of the Monterey Mission to the Carmelo Valley, where it now is. In 1771 San Gabriel Archangel was foundcfl and from this time dates the naminjar of the Sierra Madre ranpc. the peaks of San Antonio, San Gorgonio, San Ber- nardino and Santiago. In Sepleml)er, 1772, San Luis Obispo was founded. In 1773, the fiftli year of Spanish occupation, in one of Serra's reports we find the first use of the name Los Angeles. He speaks of the San Gabriel Mission a leaj?ue and a half east of the River Nuestra Senora de Los An- geles de Porcinuncula. In 1773 Rivera was appointed governor of the new country. It is interesting to note how great was the fore- sight, in some respects, of his superiors in Mexico. His instruction cautioned him "to exercise great care in the choice of locations for the Missions as they may eventu- ally become great cities." In 1775 Lieutenant Agala was ordered to explore the new San Francisco Bay, and on August 2 he reached Angel Island, so named from the Saint's day, Isla de Nuestra Senor de Los Angeles, thus showing a close similarity with that of the Southern City of Los Angeles. August 10. 177s, an attempt was made to found the Mission of San Juan Capistrano. but it was not until November i of the following year that this was accom- plished. In 1776 San Francisco was established near a spring and rivulet, which from the day they named Arroyo de los Dolores. Hence we have the name Dolores as often ap- plied to the San Francisco Mission. In the South San Buenaventura ("the modern Ventura") was founded in 1783. Santa Barbara in 1786, San Fernando in T707, San Luis Rey in 179S. The Spanish, now well entrenched, naturally named many places. All the old Spanish and Mexican grants 103 had saintly or other interesting names, and in rnost cases tliese have been retained in the naming of towns located within their boundaries. Local usage, also, at this time, fixed many of the other Spanish names which we now use. The J\vdiigo or San Rafael Hills, near Pasadena, were named from Mariano de la Luz Verdugo, or his son, Jose Maria Verdugo, the former being one of Portala's soldiers who went to Monterey, 1760-70. The ranch was called the San Rafael Rancho. Several names come to us of the descriptive type from the Spaniards, such as Caliente (hot), Pascadero (place of fishermen), Poso Creek ( a creek full of sediment), and afterwards the name given to a town, Potrero (a pas- ture ground), Pajaro (place of the bird), Soledad (soli- tude or solitary place), Los Gatos (the cat, doubtless a place where wild cats abounded), Gaviota Pass, now a town named also (the place of the seagull). We also have the following: Pa Calera — the limekiln, Calaveras ■ — skulls, the scene of many Indian fights; Arroyo Seco, dry creek; Arroyo Grande, in San Luis Obispo Co., great creek -yArroyo Hondo, deep creek ; Agua Caliente, "Hot Water." There is a town of this name in Sonoma Co., and the tribe of Indians recently evicted from Warner's Ranch, San Diego Co., were often called by this name. The Indian for Agua Caliente — hot water — is Palatingwa, and these people often refer to themselves as Palatingwas. Their tribe name is Copah, sometimes erroneously spelled Cupa. Then we have Agua Didce, sweet water ; Agua Fria, cold water. Rincon is the Spanish name for an angle or inside cor- ner. It was given to the place between Santa Barbara and W'litura, where the passage is lictwcen two points of land which fit out into the ocean. I04 Cajon pass, pronounced Ca-honc, Si)anisli for box. 'I his is a box canyon, a closed in place. The Amargosa River was so named by the Spanish be- cause of its bitter waters. Chino. According to Major Truman, Chino means in the Mexican vernacular "curly," and was a suffix to the saintly title of the Rancho granted to the Lugo family. The name as amended was Rancho Santa Ana del Chino, so called because of the curly locks of its earliest major domo. Little by little the name "Chino" became the accepted one for the ranch and when the town was started that naturally became its name. Mt. Diablo. It has always been said that when the Spaniards sought a name for this grand and majestic mountain they found all the saints, angels and arch- angles' names used elsewhere, so they dedicated it to the potentate of the lower regions. Farallones are a group of small islands near the Golden Gate. The word farallon means, in Spanish, "needle," or "small, pointed island." Pnente, "the bridge." The name was originally given to a range of hills which "bridged" the San Gabriel and Santa Ana Valleys' together. The town was named from the range. Redondo Beach, "the round beach," from its beautiful contour. Rio. This is a Spanish prefix meaning river, and is attached to many names in California, Arizona, etc., as Rio Arriba, the upper or high river; Rio Blanco, the white river ; Rio de las Picdras, the river of stones : Rio de los Americanos, the American river, or literally river of the .Americans; Rio de los Martires. river of the martyr? : Rio de Merccde, river of mercy; Rio Frio, cold river; Rio Grande, great river; Rio Salinas, the salt river; Rio 105 Seco, the dry river; Rio Vista, the river view, etc. The American River was so called b}' the Mexicans because after the gold excitement broke out many Americans came over the Sierras into California down that river. Coronado (Cor-o-nah'-do) town, peninsula and islands in or near San Diego Co. named after the Spanish con- quistador, Francisco Vasquez de Coronado. La Canyada leads from North Pasadena into the San Fernando Valley. An old Mexican at Pasadena was once asked what Canyada meant. He put his hands together, then opened them a little at their thumb side, making a narrow trough shape, and said — "Canyon, canyon !" Then opening the trough much wider, he said, "Canyada ! can- yada !" So canyada is simply a large wide canyon. El Monfc is not, as so many imagine, Spanish solely for a mountain, but is also used to denote a woody place, and this is its significance as applied to the small town on the line of the Southern Pacific, near San Gabriel. El Toro, the bull, so named because it was in the center of a vast cattle ranch. Pinole was originally the name of a rancho. owned by Ygnacio Martinez, from whom the town of Martinez takes its name. Paso Rabies was originally El Paso de Robles, "the pass of the oaks," it being located near where the pioneers' road made a pass in which many live oaks thrived. Other Spanish names come to us from some fortuitous or accidental circumstances, as, for instance, Ballena, in San Diego Co., "whale." Doubtless so named by the Spanish or Mexicans because a whale was caught near here, or drifted ashore. Cone jo (Co-nay'-ho), jackrabbit, a small settlement in the San Joaquin Valley, so named because of the \'ast number of iackrabbils found there. io6 Toncscal, Swcat-IIoiisc, so named because here was lo- cated an Indian sudatory. 'I'lie despised Indians have given to us Klamath, Shasta, ( aluiilla, Pala, Pauma, Pachanga, Temecula, Chowchilla. Siiisun, Mono, Inyo, Sonoma, Napa, Yolo, Tehama, Wyeka (which the later comers changed to Yreka, adding the r, says Bancroft, wliicli the Indians so widely lack), and others. Cahnilla (Ka-wee'-ah") is the name of a tribe of Indians residing in a valley of the same name in Riverside Co. The name is said to mean "master." Chemchucvi (Chem- c-way'-ve), a tribe of Indians living in a valley of the same name on the Colorado River, in Arizona, and also on the California side of the river. A branch of the Paiuti family and called Chemehuevi in derision. The name is most probably derived from Achee Mohave, "fish-eating Mohave." Cosumne (Co-sum'-ney), is Indian for salmon. Bryant says that Tnickcc Ctown and river") gained its name in the following manner. A party of emigrants in 1844 was caught in the snow in trying to cross the Sierras. While trying to force their way up the river an eccentric looking Indian arrived and offered to guide them. He was so much like a man one of the emigrants used to know called Truckee that he gave him the name, from which his tribe, the river and the town have since been named. Algooton w^as formerly Lakevieiv. It was named after Algoot, the ancient hero of the Saboba Indians, who. they allege, brought their ancestors to Southern California. One of their legends connects Algoot with the region of Algooton. It is said that here he fought with Tauquitch. the cannibal monster of the San Jacinto Mountains, and sl(.\v Iiiiii. Tn the fight Tauquitch turned himself (being a 107 wizard) into a sea serpent and in the wild lashings of his tail cut through the rocks, allowing the water of the San Jacinto River to empty into Lake Elsinorc. Pasadena is a Chippewa Indian word, and was suggested by Dr. T. B. Ellicott, one of the town's original found- ers. The full name should be IVeoquan Pasadena, the Crown of the Valley. Altadena is a made word from dena, the latter part of the name Pasadena, and Alta, higher, viz., the higher Pasadena. It was given by Byron O. Clark. The Americans appear to have been controlled by a variety of methods or motives in their naming of towns. The personality of individuals seems to have been as powerful as any other motive, as will be seen from the following : Stockton was named after Commodore Stockton, the first governor of the territory of California. It was founded by Charles Weber in 1847. BcalesviUe was named after Lieut. Truxton Beale, once a midshipman on Stockton's vessel. He was sent to the relief of S. W. Kearney by Stockton when the "Army of the West" was defeated by Andres Pico at San Pas- qual. Beale was afterwards U. S. Minister to Austria. J^alli-jo was named after Don Mariano Guadalupe Val- Icjo. once in the Mexican Army, but one of the first to recognize the great benefit LTnited States occupancy of California would be. He was a member of the Constitu- tional Convention and afterwards State senator. Monrovia was laid out and named by Mr. W. N. Mon- roe in 1886. Eaton Canyon, in the Sierra Madre, northeast of Pasa- dena, was named after Judge F>. S. Eaton, one of the first settlers in Pasadena. Nordhoff was named after Charles Nordhoff once on io8 tlic slaff of Tlarpcr's magazine, and whose articles and books on California did much to attract settlers. Elhi'ood was so named from Ellwood Cooper, one of the best known olive growers of the State, and for years a member of the Horticultural Commission. Burhank was named after Luther Burbank, the famous .-isriculluralist and horticulturalist, whose achievements with vegetables, flowers, fruits, etc.. have made his name- as much that of a wizard as that of Edison. KinucyJoa. a pretty spot above Sierra Madre, was named by Abbott Kinney, botanist, editor and the fellow-com- missioner of Mrs. Helen Hunt Jackson in her work among the Mission Indians of Southern California. Not far away is Carterhia, so named by Mr. Kinney's neighbor. Carter. HolUslcr was so named from Col. Hollister, an early day pioneer and one who experimented somewhat in orange growing. Walker's Lake and Pass were both named from Joseph Walker, a noted trapper, hunter, guide and scout, who joined Fremont on his return from his second expedition. Glendora was named by Mr. George Whitcomb. of Chi- cago, its founder, after his wife, Lenora. and "glen," the beautiful wealth of the place suggesting several glens. Ramona was named from the daughter of Hon. J. De Earth Shorb. Banning was laid out by Dr. Welwood Murray, of Palm Springs, who named it after his old friend Gen. Phineas Banning, Beaumont was first named Edgar Station from Dr. Edgar, who came as a physician with a U. S. surveying party sent out in the late 40's or early 50's of the last ccnlury. Tt was then changed to San Gorgonio. in honor of the majestic mountain which overlooked it, and finally 109 given its present Frenchified name (Beautiful Mountain) by H. C. Sigler, who headed a company for the devehap- ment of real estate interests in the town. Gilroy. — So named from a Scotchman, John Gilroy, who landed in Monterey in 1814 from a Hudson Bay Co/s ship. He had the scurvy badly and was left on shore to be cured. On his recovery he went to the Santa Clara Valley, settled on a ranch about thirty miles south of San Jose, near where Gilroy now is. He died July 26, 1869. Donner Lake was so named from the illfated Donner party who camped on the snow which covered it from sight in 1846-7. Sunol. — Named from Antonio M. Sunol, a Spaniard, born at Barcelona, but a member of the French #Navy. He was present when Napoleon the Great surrendered before his exile to St. Helena. He died in San Jose, March 18, 1865. Downey received its name from Governor John J. Dow- ney, as also did Dozvnieville, in the northern part of the State. Diiarte derives its name from Andres Duarte, a Mexican military officer, who settled here upon a grant secured from the Mexican government. Livermore. — Named after Robert Livermore, who en- tered the Santa Clara Valley in 1816. He married into the Higuerra family, and died in 1857, leaving a large estate. Folsom. — I am not certain, but am under the impres- sion that somewhere I have read or heard that this place was named after Captain Folsom, first acting quarter- master general in California, who came to the coast in 1846, one of the officers of a regiment of a thousand volunteer soldiers under the command of Col. J. D. Stevenson. Wilson's Peak, or properly Mount Wilson, was named fidm lion. ]>. I). Wilson, one of California's earliest American settlers. The Kern River, Kern County and Kcrnville all obtain their names from Kern, a member of Fremont's expedition. IVhitticr was settled by a colony of Friends, and thu- named in honor of the great Quaker poet. Delano (De-lay'-no), was possibly named after Colum- bus Delano, Secretary of the Interior under President Grant. The mountains of the same name in Montana and Utah were so named. Delgada Point (Del-gah'-dah) was named after an old Spanish explorer. niirenberg, in Yuma County, Arizona, on the Colorado River, though in another State, has a peculiarly interesting connection with California. It received its name in 1856 from Herman Ehrenberg, its founder, who was tragically murdered at Dos Palmos, on the Colorado Desert. Murrieta, a town in Riverside co., is said to be so named from a former proprietor of a large tract of land there, J. Murrieta. IVincIiester was named from the pioneer who laid it out. Mount Hoffman, one of the peaks of the Sierra Ne- vada, was so named from Charles F. Hoffman, of the State Geological Survey. Mount Lyell is another towering peak in the same range, named after Sir Charles Lyell, the distinguished English geologist. Mount IVhitney, the highest peak of the United States, one of the peaks of the Sierra Nevadas, was named from Prof. J. D. Whitney, State Geologist of California, and Mount Brezvcr was named after Prof. W. H. Brewer. The following names were given in memor>'- of places known in earlier days, or through some agreeable associa- tion. jrHiiiiiigtoii was laid out by the Hon. Phineas Banning and in 1858 was so named by him after his home city of Wihnington, Del. Nezvport Beach was laid out by Mr. McFadden, of Santa Ana, and named by him as a western claimant for the honors accorded to the Eastern Newport. Ontario was laid out by the Chafifey Bros., who came from the Canadian province of the same name. We have an Acton in Southern California but I am not sure how it gained its name. There is an Acton in Mid- dlesex Co., England, one in Massachusetts, and one in Maine. Spadra was so named by Mr. W. Rubottom, whose hap- piest years were spent at Spadra Blufifs, on the Arkansas River. Alhambra, near Pasadena, Los Angeles Co., was so named for the palace in Spain. Westminster. — In 1870 Rev. L. P. Webber, a Presby- terian clergyman, formerly of Salem Co., New Jersey, secured about seven thousand acres, sold it under severe restrictions, having given the colony a name that would endear it to all good members of his faith. Some names were given because of a circumstance or event which transpired when some one was present to give the name and pass it on. Thus we have Rattlesnake Island and Dead Man's Island, the latter, so named be- cause the soldiers slain in the fight between Gillespie and the Spanish at Dominguez were buried there. The Calico Mountains, near Daggett, are so called from the marvelous colorings of the rocks and clays of which the range is formed. The miners saw the resemblance to richly colored calicoes and so gave the name. The Colorado River is the Red River of the West, Colo- rado being Spanish for red. There has been solne discus- sion, however, as in whether tlic name was given owing to the recklisii color of llie water, or the red walls of the canyon which has made the Colorado River so famous Ihronghout the world. Death yalley derives its name from the melancholy fate of a party of emigrants of which Rev. J. W. Brier, a Methodist minister, was one. There were five hundred who started, but a mere handful reached the California land for which they aimed. The bones of those who perished were found by Governor Blaisdell and his sur- veying party, and he it was who gave the valley its lugubri- ous name. Arron'head is so named from the wonderful resemblance to an Indian arrowhead seen on the mountain close by. It is the work of erosion, but so perfectly shaped and large that it can be seen for many miles. Redlands was so called because the soil of its region is notably red. Needles is a town in San Bernardino Co., on the main line of the Santa Fe. and so named because of the sharp or needle-like peaks seen in the Mohave Mountains, which are passed nearest when crossing the bridge from the Arizona side. Coast Range of mountains is so called because its general trend is parallel to the Pacific coast. Tulare Lake and County receive their names from the vast number of tules that once covered a large area in the lower end of the San Joaquin Valley. Location had much to do with some of the names given since United States occupancy, such as Oceanside, on the surf line between Los Angeles and San Diego, Riverside. Long Beach, Red Bluff, Contra Costa, Grass Valley. Placerville, Palomar Mountain (the mountain of the Dove), SaHnas (salt) River, Inglezi'ood, Dos Palms, Palm 113 Spiiii;4S, Palm rallcy, Paso Rubles (the Pass of the Oaks). Riverside was so called because it was a colony located on the side of the Santa Ana River. Orange was so named from the large oranges that grew there, and when the county was separated from Los Angeles County its citizens chose that as its country name. Atialiein was a German settlement, bought at $2.00 an acre in 1857, and was so named from its location on the Santa Ana River, "heim" being German for "home." CHAPTER V. THK STuKV or kamona; its scenes and how to reach THEM. Few American novels have enjoyed the popularity of Ramona. Its sale is constant, thousands of copies being sold annually in Southern California. It, better than any other novel, pictures the life of the early days when Spaniard, Mexican and Indian were beginning to awake to the rude materialism of the life of the new citizens — the Americanos who were taking possession of the land. I licii, too, it is so exquisitely describes the beauty of the country and so truthfully shows the ideal character of the Indian that it has never ceased to appeal to a large and growing circle of readers. The Book itself is a novel, a work of fiction. There is no real Ramona. A certain book published by one D. A. Hufford, in Los Angeles, bearing the title "The Real Ramona," is full of wilful and deliberate mendacities and bold thefts of my own photographs to bolster up his untruthful screed. The whole story is not worthy this notice, except as a warning. The scenes of the early parts of the book are laid at Camulos. This was and is an old Spanish ranch house on the coast line of the Southern Pacific between Los Angeles and Santa Barbara. Here one may see the crosses on the hillside, the South Veranda where Felipe was sick, the inner court, the fountain, the chapel, the old olive-oil mill, the washing-place under the willows, the grape arbor, and even the torn altar-cloth in the chapel. IIS Some have suggested that the Rancho Gaujome, ten or twelve miles from Oceanside, on the line of the Santa Fe to San Diego is the "real home of Ramonai," This is utter bosh and nonsense. The writer of a novel surely herself knows which is the fictitious home of her fictitious heroine, and in the case of Ramona H. H. describes with fullness and reasonable accuracy Camulos and not Guaj- ome. As to the characters, both Ramona and Alessandro were fictitious. Yet it is certain that many isolated true stories are woven into this fictitious story. Hence it is interesting to visit Saboba, near San Jacinto, where Ramona is said to have lived; the Hartzell store is found near Temecula; Aunt Ri is Mrs. Jordan of Old San Jacinto; Jim Farrar is Sam Temple, who was living, the last time I saw him, at Yuma, Ariz. Then, asks the reader, is that part of the story which describes the shooting of Alessandro true? It is ! But it was true only of an Indian named Juan Diego, who lived in the San Jacinto Mountain Valley, and who was often affected by an attack of "loco." In one of these attacks he took Sam Temple's horse from the Hewitt Corral at Old San Jacinto (where Aunt Ri was then liv- ing) and left his own broken down pony in its stead. The Indians and his friends claim that Juan was incapable of stealing the horse; Temple assumed the other attitude. He personally informed me that he trailed the horse to Juan Diego's home, called out the Indian, who, when he came attempted to kill him with a long knife which he had secreted up his sleeve. In self-defence Temple shot and killed the Indian, returned to San Jacinto, gave himself up and was ultimately released on. the plea of self-defence. Ramona (Juan Diego's wife) tells the story, on the other hand, exactly as it is related by H. H. in the novel. This wife of Juan Diego is still living at Cahuilla. A ii6 ti'.iin r;m lie uhtaiucrl at cither San Jacinto rir llcniet aiul llu' (lri\c ti) lur hoinu takoii. It is a "camping-out" trip and will rc(|iiiiL- three days or more. The distance is about forty miles. The old church where the fictitious Ramona is said to have hecii married is at old San Diego, and the bells which were rung at the fictitious marriage of this fictitious hero and heroine are there shown. The Santa Fc Bridge across Canyon Diablo. CHAPTER VI. THE INDIANS OF SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA. Interest in the Indians has been mucli increased during the past decade. The American people are slowly be- ginning to appreciate the aborigines. The time has passed when the brute is secure of applause who affirms that "the only dead Indian is the good Indian." A study of primi- tive invention, of basketry, of blanketry, of potter}', of sil- ver-ware, of bead work and other Indian industries have demonstrated the Indian the possessor of much imagination, inventive genius, poetic, aesthetic and religious aspiration. My larger book on Indian Basketry has been a revelation to thousands, and the increased study induced by its reading has led to a wonderful change of sentiment in regard to the worth of the Indians themselves. Time was when nearly al! California Indians were rudely called "Diggers." Now we know and reasonably well differentiate them. On the Colorado River, twenty miles above the Needles, (or the main line of the Santa Fe) is Fort Mohave reservation. Here are many Mohave Indians. A little further down are the Chemehuevis. Below Needles is another band of Chemehuevis, and still twenty or more miles further is the Parker reservation of Mohave Indians. At Yuma (on the main line of the Southern Pacific, Sunset Route) are the Yumas, a warlike auf! independent people. It it is remembered that tlic missions were established for the Indians the traveler will naturally expect to find aborigines near all these historic structures. He will be dis- Tl8 rippointcd. There arc very few near San Diego, practically none at San Luis Rey, San Juan Capistrano, San Gabriel, Los AnRcles, San Fernando, Ventura or Santa Barbara. Nearly all have gone — fled back into the mountains to l)e away from the white man who has been their curse and An Indian Ready for the Dance. An Indian BeUe. almost Utter annihilation. Only scattered bands remain, and these are rapidly diminishing in almost every case. From Indio one may drive out to Torres, a mountain to the West of the S. P. railway, and find a village of about two hundred. There are bands also at Martinez (near 119 Walters) and Palm Springs (five miles from the S. P. station). At Banning is a reservation and the Catholic school conducted under the direction of Rev. F. A. Hahn. Driving desertwards, about forty miles from San Diego, one will find a few Indian bands at Santa Ysabel, Los Coyotes, and a small village at Mesa Grande on a moun- tain overlooking Warner's ranch, from which the Copahs were recently evicted. This band and others from Puerte la Cruz and San Felipe (both on Warner's ranch) were re- moved to Pala, reached by carriage or the ramshackle mail "rigs" from Oceanside, a distance of some twenty- two miles. Above Pala, a few miles, are Pauma and Rincon. At Saboba near San Jacinto is a small village, and forty miles up the mountain is Cahuilla, the scene of incidents incorporated in H. H.'s Raniona. A few miles from Temecula, on the Santa Fe branch line, is the Pachanga reservation. There are Indian schools at Riverside and Perris. The Sherman Institute at Riverside is especially worthy a visit. Full particulars of the reservations and Indian schools may be obtained from the recent reports of the United States Commissioner of Indian Afifairs. CHAPTER VII. HISTORIC LANDMARKS AND HOW TO REACH THEM. Naturally the intelligent traveler will wish to see all the missions. They are fully described elsewhere. .'\t San Diego do not fail to see the Boundary Monu- nKiU l)etween Mexico and the United States. This is a carriage drive. Full particulars at any livery stable in Coronado or San Diego. Other landmarks worth visiting from San Diego are Point Loma, the Government Break- water, the Sweetwater Dam, Old San Diego, and the former home of Mrs. U. S. Grant. Drive also to San Pasqual, the battleground between the Spanish Californians and Kearney's forces; then to Warner's Ranch, where the evicted Indians lived until 1903, when they were removed to Pala. On returning see the graveyard and Brush Mis- sion chapel of Santa Ysabel. At the Chamber of Com- merce see the old Spanish guns brought from the Philip- pines in the early days of the Spanish occupancy of Cali- fornia. At Oceanside drive out to San Luis Rey, Guajome Rancho, Santa Margarita Rancho, Pala (where the evicted Indians from Warner's Ranch are now living) and up to Pauma and Rincon (both Indian villages"). In Lns .Kngelcs visit the site of old Fort Moore, near the Hitjh School, the Fremont Home. Sonoratown. where the main town once was, the plaza, the mission chapel, op- posite the plaza, and the Don Antonio Coronel Collection of curiosities and Spanish and Indian antiquities in the Chamber of Commerce. Visit also the Dona Encarnacion Abila residence, 14, 16 and 18 Olivera street. This was Commodore Stockton's headquarters when he was in Los Angeles. In front cf the court house are two cannon. These were Gillespie's, and he took them with him after his capitulation in Los Angeles, elsewhere, described. The Twin Palms are on College street and the S. P. freight yards. These were planted very early in the history of Los Angeles. Visit also El Reclieo, the house of Don Antonio Coronel, where Helen Hunt Jackson visited much while in Los Angeles. It is situated near Seventh and Alameda streets. At Santa Catalina see the old quarry of prehistoric mor- tars, in the soapstone ; a quarry which supplied many mortars to the Indians of the mainland of California. While in Los Angeles, obtain from Mr. Thomas Pas- coe, proprietor of the Fremont Hotel, corner of Fourth and Olive streets, a small pamphlet written by the author of this Guide Book, entitled "Fremont in California." It is historic and useful, though a hotel advertising pamphlet. Do not forget also to visit, in Los Angeles, the oil pro- ducing region, which though still producing, is destined to become historic. At San Juan Capistrano do not fail to see the carved statues and the dresses, etc., in charge of the sacristan. Visit the beach at the Point made memorable by Dana in his "Two Years Before the Mast." Mr. Mendelson will arrange to drive any one to this place and also to the Hot Springs used by the padres. At San Gabriel drive out to the old mill. Call at the Cannino Real station (the King's Highway station) kept liy Mrs. S. A. P. Wheeler, a most kindly and genial lady who will give travelers much valuable information. In Pasadena drive to Devil's Gate in the Arroyo Scco and see the Glacial markings there. A little further up to the foothills is the grave of Owen Brown, the son of the Hero of Harper's Ferry. Ride up Mount Lowe and the guide there can show the canyon where the trees were taken that Chapman, the pirate mill builder, who erected the old mill at San Gabriel, used for that building. Just above Echo Mountain is the Lowe Observatory, established by Professor T. S. C. Lowe in 1894, and presided over then by Dr. Lewis Swift, now by Professor E. L. Larkin. From near Alpine Tavern can be seen the station of the Forest Rangers of the United States Forest Reserve, and across the Grand Basin, in which John Muir rambled when gathering material for his articles on The Bee Ranches of Southern California, can be seen Wilson's Peak, on which Harvard University used to have a small astronomical observatory. At Whittier, reached by electric cars, visit the old honi' (one of them) of Don Pio Pico, the last Mexican gov- ernor of California. Over the hills is Puente, the location of the first oil wells discovered in Southern California. At Ventura are two historic old palms planted in early days. One belongs to the Native Daughters' Improvement Club, presented by Archbishop George Montgomery. The other is on private property. Two small museums of early California relics may be seen in Ventura. One is the collection of Stephen Bowers, the other belongs to the estate of the late Dr. C. L. Bard. At Brewster's photographic studio photos may be seen of interesting historic characters, and a set made by him to illustrate some phases of the story of Ramona. On the way to Santa Barbara stop off at Carpintcria and see the largest grape vine in the world, over si.Kty years old, and then ride on to Summerland and visit the oil ^23 wells built on piers out in the ocean. This 1? a sight to remember, and is too unique to be ignored. At Santa Barbara visit the old comandante's residence, the Museum of Natural Histor\% the mission, the acque- ducts behind the mission, the painted cave, fourteen miles east of the city, and, if possible, ascend to the pass over which Fremont came on that memorable Christmas when he lost so many horses. The ruined De Aguirre residence, used as the barracks of the first California Volunteers, and the De La Guerra residence, both types of old Spanish residences are well worthy of visit. From Santa Barbara drive to Santa Ynez, the location of another mission, which can be as easily reached this way as any. At Palm Springs, five miles from the station of that name on the main line of the Southern Pacific, visit the wonder spring, which, though bottomless and bubbling up gently and noiselessly, refuses to allow any bather to . sink lower than his shoulders ; and spend a few days in visiting the ancient palms in Palm Canyon, Murray Can- yon, Lukens Canyon, etc. These are aged beyond the missions and as fascinating and aweinspiring as the big trees (the Sequoias) of the groves near the Yosemite. Go in winter, however, as it is too hot in summer. In winter it is as delightful a trip as can be found anywhere away from cities and made roads. At Santa Monica, reached directly from Los Angeles by electric car and Southern Pacific, visit the great wharf, built by C. P. Huntington, of the Southern Pacific. It is 4,620 feet long. Near San Pedro is Deadman's Island, on which the soldiers killed in the fight at Dominguez between Ameri- cans and Mexicans w'cre buried. \J4 At South I'asadcna visit the ostrich farm, historic as being the first ostrich farm in America. Baldwin's rancli is destined to be historic. Here are the stables of the fine horses, and near the house is one of the mission bells, now used for calling the hands to dinner. At Sierra Madrc is the Sierra Madre Villa, one of the first of the noted hotels of California and well worthy a visit. At .Arrowhead, on tlie kite shaped track, are the famed Arrow, an Indian signal on the mountain, and the long- famed hot springs, used for centuries by aborigines, Span- iards and Mexicans prior to the coming of the present-day citizens. At San Bernardino arc the ruins of the so-called mon- astery, where priests from San Gabriel and San Juan Cap- istrano used to come and preach. Bloomington, on the inside track of the Southern Pa- cific, is destined to be historic as there caitaigrc, the new tanning material-furnisher, was first cultivated. It grows wild in many parts of Southern California. Smiley Heights at Redlands is already historic, and on. who wishes to see what has made Redlands should visit the Bear Valley Dam up in the San Bernardino Moun- tains. It is a drive of exquisite beauty, rugged grandeur and stirring experiences. Riverside, reached by both Santa Fe and Southern Pacific, is historic as the first American home of the navel orange. At the Glenwood Hotel is the historic tree, transplanted by President Roosevelt in 1903. from which all the later stock has sprung. All the Indian villages near to the railway as Potrero (near Banning), Saboba. (near San Jacinto). Palm Springs, Martinez, etc.. should be visited by those who wish to inform themselves of the descendants of the former 125 "First Families of Southern Cnlifornia," the true "Native Sons and Daughters, " and the bluest of all tlie "Blue- Bloods." Of ceurse the Soldiers' Home, near Santa Monica, is liistoric in the proud possession of its old warriors, God hiess them ! Every patriot should visit the Home and cheer the old braves with a hearty handshake and smile and expression of good will. When you go, don't stand aloof from them, but go and speak to them and voice the gratitude you feel at the share these rugged old warriors had in giving you a free country. CIIAPTRR VIII. THE SEVEN COt'NTIES OF SOL'THERN CAI.IFORMA. A brief, and necessarily, cursory survey of the seven Counties that make up Southern California will reveal to the Eastern tourist that he is not only coming into a land of climate and scenery, but also of marvellous horticultural, agricultural, floricultural, apicultural, mineral and other re- sources. Indeed, Southern California is large, self depend- ent, and, if a few more manufactories were introduced, she would include all the essentials of a healthy and vigorous existence within her own borders. Sauta Barbara County is bounded, north by San Luis Obispo County, east by Ventura, south by Santa Barbara Ciiannel, and west by the Pacific Ocean. Its area is 2,265 square miles, or 1,449,600 acres. Unen- tered Government land, 330,000 acres. Topography. — A large part of the northeastern portion of the country is rugged mountains, containing some few small fertile valleys. The county is divided east and west by the Santa Ynez Mountains. The northern portion, the most extensive, comprises four important valleys — Santa Maria, Lompoc, Los Alamos, and Santa Ynez. The south- ern part, between mountains and ocean, is called Santa Bar- bara Valley in general, and comprises Carpinteria, Monte- cito, Goleta, and Ellwood. The following represents the acreage of all the foregoing and the islands : Santa Maria and adjuncts, 250,000; Los Alamos, 150,000; Lompoc, 230,- 000; Santa Ynez, 200,000; Santa Barbara, 108,000; two islands, 150,000. Soils. — Santa Barbara Vallev in its lower levels is allu- 127 vial, very deep and fertile, producing famous crops of lima beans, fresh berries, and vegetables the year round ; the upper part, somewhat adobe, black and fertile, is devoted to cereals, mustard, flax and pasture. The soils of the north- ern valleys are mostly loam. On the west, near the sea, they are somewhat heavier. The Santa Maria Valley is a sand loam, while its extension the Siquoc Valley is deeper and richer. The lower and northern valley grows large crops of beans and potatoes, and higher up to wheat and barley. The future of the entire section lies in its adapta- bility to fruits of all kinds, varied according to soil and location. Climate. — Few places in the world can show so remark- able a record. For twenty years the mercury has only once reached 31 degrees, and once as high as 102 degrees. The average for thirteen years varied from 55 degrees to 71 degrees. There are over 310 pleasant days in a year, five rainy, twelve showery, twenty-nine cloudy, and ten windy. The strip of land along the south coast bears a striking resemblance to Riviera. An invalid could be out all day for 346 days in the year, without discomfort. Surf bathing in midwinter is common ; the temperature of the water only varies six degrees, summer and winter. The average annual rainfall is about eighteen inches. In agriculture and horticulture Santa Barbara sustains a high position, and in floriculture it equals any region in the world. It is the florist's paradise, all varieties of flowers and shrubs growing in the greatest profusion. North of the mountains, and in the coast region, stock raising and dairying are carried on to a considerable ex- tent, and the fisheries of the coast are exceedingly valuable. Extensive mineral deposits are found throughout the mountain ranges, and there is also much useful timber. J'eiitura. — Ventura County is bounded on the north by 128 Kiiii ;iii(l San Luis ()l)i.-i>o Comities, cast hy Los Aii^ck-. west l)y Santa Uarhara, and smitli liy the Pacific Ocean. It lias an area of 1,682 sqnarc miles, or 1.076.480 acres. Unentered govcnmient land, 500,000 acres. Topofinipliy. — About onc-lialf of this county is arable land and very fertile, needing irrigation in many places to insure productiveness. The mountains are mostly low and timbered, except in the north, where the range running east and west rises to over 6,000 feet. The valleys are fertili . tlie principal of which are the Santa Clara ; Camulos, the alleged home of the "Ramona" of Helen Hunt Jackson; Ojai, with its well-timbered basin of productive soil, heavy in wheat and favorable for orange culture ; Conejo, on the northern slope, of Guadalasca Mountains, well watered and productive of grain; Simi, with its splendid oak forests and grazing lands ; Santa Ana. with cultivated farms and orchards; Los Posas, with immense wheat fields and semi- tropic fruits; Sespe, and San Buenaventura. The Santa Clara River traverses the county from northeast to south- west, with its tributaries, the Santa Paula, Sespe, and Piru. The Ventura rises in the San Rafael range and flows due south to the sea. \'entura County has enough water flowing naturally to rupply all its land.;, and wheat and barley are largely pro- duced. More beans are raised in this county than in all the remainder of California, one bean-field alone covering over 2,000 acres. In horticulture, Ventura is reaching a high standard, and stock-raising and apiculture are both carried on to a profit- able extent. The mountains contain many valuable minerals, and there are a large number of productive oil-wells. NordhoflF. the famous resort for invalids, the charming Ojai Valley, and several other excellent resorts are located in Ventura Count v. 129 Los Angeles. — Los Angeles County is bounded, north by Kern, east by San Bernardino, south by Orange County and the Pacific Ocean, and west by Ventura County. It has an area of 4,142 square miles, or 2,650,880 acres. Topography. — About four-fifths of the area of Los Ange- les County are capable of cultivation, with water supplied, the remainder being mountainous. The shore line is 85 miles in length, the county extending from 30 to 50 miles hack from the ocean. The northern portion of the county is a part of what is now called the Mohave Desert, the west- ern section of which, known as the Antelope Valley, is being rapidly settled and cultivated. South of this, extending almost to Los Angeles City, is the great San Fernando Val- ley. East of Los Angeles is the beautiful San Gabriel Valley, shut in from the north by pine-clad mountains. This, in turn opens into the Pomona Valley. Both are celebrated for their horticultural products and beautiful homes. West- ward from the county seat towards the ocean, extends the Santa Monica range of low mountains. South of this range between the city and the ocean, is a wide and fertile plain with several small settlements. Southeast of Los Angeles is the Los Nietos Valley, a fertile section, with plenty of moisture, where there are many dairies, corn and alfalfa fields as well as orchards. More than 60 per cent, of the development so far, has been in the southern portion of the county, most of the steep mountains and waste land lying in the northern section. Los Angeles county is well supplied with water for irri- gation, the flow of the San Gabriel and Los Angeles rivers being supplemented by the flowing artesian wells of Pomona, Antelope and San Fernando valleys. Its agricultural and horticultural resources are great, and, as there are several narrow belts in the county where frost is practically unknown, delicate vegetables, such as tomatoes, 130 cliilc peppers, string beans and green peas arc raised and slii|)|)od in midwinter to San Francisco and eastern points, rfalizing fniicy prices, as well as supplying the home mar- ket, which is large, owing to the great influx of eastern visitors every winter. Los Angeles county also has con- siderable stock raising, and the mineral resources are grow- ing in value. The oil developments in the boundaries of the city of Los Angeles have created quite a little excite- ment, and with the former steady yields at Puente and Newhali, make this a most important industry. Harbors. — The shipping ports of Los Angeles are San Pedro, Redondo, and Santa Monica — where the Southern Pacific company has built a wharf 4,600 feet long — and I^ng Beach. The United States government is constructing the deep water harbor at San Pedro and it is fully described else- where. Orange County is bounded on the north by Los Angeles, cast by San Bernardino, south by San Diego, and west by the Pacific Ocean. Statistics. — Area, 675 square miles, or 429,502 acres Lands assessed, 429,502 acres. Fruit raising is the most important industry, oranges in the lead. In 1900 the assessor's books gave the following figures, now much increased : Apples, 264 acres ; apricots, 1,468 acres; figs, 70 acres; Olives, 1,200 acres; peaches, 480 acres; pears, 78 acres; prunes, 692 acres; lemons, 1,020 acres; oranges, 4,950 acres; walnuts, 6,100 acres; peanuts, 550 acres. While the walnut acreage is large, many of the trees are young and the output is not so large as that of oranges. Yet California produces all the English walnuts of the United States and Orange County grows fully half of all of California's product. 131 There are two large canneries of fruit, one at Santa Ana, and one at Anaheim, with an annual output of over a mil- lion and a half of cans. In wheat and barley its 7S,ooo acres yielded in 1900 65,000 tons. There are six creameries and in addition to supplying the home market over 10,000 pounds of butter are shipped out of the county weekly. At Buena Park is a con- densed milk factory which uses 50,000 pounds of milk and has about fifty employees. Seven miles southwest of Santa Ana are the wonderful celery beds. These are in peat lands, ranging in depth from one to twenty feet. Mr. Smelzer, of Kansas City, Mo., saw the land and his opportunity, bought up all he could pur- chase and began the planting of celery. In a few years he had amassed a vast fortune and started a new industry in Southern California. The celery reaches the New York, Boston and Chicago markets when the Eastern fields are frozen and nearly 2,000 carloads per year are shipped across the continent. It yields so as to pay from $100 to $150 per acre. Sugar beet culture is also largely carried on, there being already one large sugar factory in operation. Oil is found largely, certain wells yielding from 300 to 700 barrels a day. Topography, Soil, and Climate. — Orange is a small county, but in compensation for this, a large proportion of its area is arable, there being comparatively little steep mountain land. There are 65 square miles of mountains, 100 of foot- hills, and 510 of valley. The climate is mild and equable, no point being more than twenty miles distant from the ocean. It does not materially differ from that of Los Angeles County. Tlie soil is exceedingly fertile, and in the northern portion of the county irrigation facilities are ample, there being 100 miles of ditches and over 1,000 flow- ing artesian wells. In the south, one-fourth of the area of 132 llic county is taken up by tiic great San Joaqnin Ranch of 107,000 acres, whicli is at present devoted almost entirely to tlic raising of barley and cattle. In the mountains are de- posits of galena, silver, quicksilver, coal, and other minerals. San Bernardino County is bounded north by State of Nevada and Inyo County, east by the State of Nevada and Arizona Territory, south by Riverside and Orange counties, and west by Orange, Los Angeles and Kern counties. This is the largest county in the State. It has an area of 22,886 square miles, or 14,647.040 acres. Topography. — A largo part of the area of the county is arid land, and wild, rugged mountains, abounding in min- eral wealth. To the south and west of these lie nearly 1,000 square miles of vine-clad and orchard-covered valleys, well styled the Italy of America. In the range of moun- tains which separates this from the desert. Mount San Ber- nardino, elevation 10,225, and Mount San Gorgonio, eleva- tion 11,090 feet, are conspicuous features. The Mohave Desert is largely a sandy waste, with occasional volcanic mountain ridges and peaks and alkali tracts, without other growth than the yucca, small nut pines, and occasional juniper. Beds of dry lakes and creeks abound, hot springs, boiling mud lakes, salt beds, borax deposits, and sulphur. Soils. — The soil of the arable portion varies from a sandy loam, mixed with gravel, on the high mesas or tablelands, to a black, heavy damp loam on the river bottoms. The red soil of Redlands is characteristic of the foothills. Old San Bernardino has a heavy black loam. Rialto, a sandy and gravelly loam. Cucamonga. a light sandy soil ; Ontario, a gravelly loam, warm and fertile. On the terrace at Colton, a rich, deep loam ; on the river bottoms, a cold, damp clay. All these soils, except the alkali and river bottom damp clays, are first class fruit lands. 133 The irrigation systems of San Bernardino GDunty are world renowned. This county has quite a record for its apiculture, about 400,000 pounds of honey being produced yearly. In its agriculture, horticulture and stock interests San Barnardino has great wealth, and its timber and minerals are very extensive. Sail Diego. — San Diego County is bounded north by Orange and Riverside Counties, east by Arizona, south by Mexico, or Lower California, and west by the Pacific Ocean. It is next in size to San Bernai^ino County. It has an area of 8,555 square miles, or 5,472,000 acres. Topography. — San Diego is the most southern county in the State, being bounded by Mexico on the south. A large area is desert, so called, but which only needs water for irrigation to be productive. The county extends back from the ocean to the Colorado River, and in elevation from 250 feet below to 10,987 feet above sea level. Within these limits may be found almost every variety of soil and climate. There are three distinct belts, beginning at the coast and extending back into the desert region. From the coast line, 75 miles in length, back to the hill country, a distance of 30 or 40 miles, are low valleys, with intervening mesas and hills. The second division includes the mountain region of the interior, where minerals are found and decidu- ous fruits raised. The third section is the desert, which covers about two-thirds of the area of the county. This region has great possibilities, under irrigation. Recently, San Diego has entered upon a course of improvement and enterprise, proving that she does not rely altogether upon the advantages of her fine bay and peerless climate. Soils. — The mesa lands, for the most part, have a reddish and very fertile soil. Near National City is a red clayey soil. El Cajon has loams resembling Riverside lands. Otay 134 district is largely black adobe, very strong. Jamul and Janal are divided between black and gray adobe and sandy loam. Climate. — San Diegans are justly proud of tbe equable and dcliglitful climate of the coast region of the county. At San Diego, during twenty years, of the 7,304 days 5,768 were clear or fair, and there were only 874 days in which rain fell. During seventeen years, out of the 6,205 days, there were only 199 when the temperature rose above eighty de- grees and only three when it fell to 32 degrees. Farther inland the summer climate becomes warmer. On the desert it is very hot during the greater part of the year. In the higher mountain regions the climate is bracing, with some snow in winter, and a heavy rainfall. The average annual rainfall at San Diego city is ten inches. Irrigation — The irrigation systems of San Diego county arc extensive, and the agricultural and horticultural re- sources have given some sections of it a most enviable rec- ord through the country. In honey exports it surpasses San Bernardino, having shipped about 500 tons in 1892. Stock-raising is extensively carried on in the upper alti- tudes, and in the mountain regions there is much mineral wealth, and, also, extensive tracts of valuable timber. Riverside. — This country is formed of segregated portions of San Bernardino and San Diego counties, extending across the State from the ocean to the Colorado River. San Bernard- ino surrenders 590 square miles, and San Diego 6,418 square miles to form the new county. San Bernardino parts with tbe rich valleys and foothills of the southwest section, in- cluding the towns of Riverside, South Riverside, Alessan- dro, Beaumont and Banning. San Diego loses the district embracing Elsinore, San Jacinto, Winchester, ^lurietta and Fallbrook. The new county appropriates $8,700,000 of San Bernardino assessment, and $3,849,114 of San Diego, mak- 135 ing a total assessed valuation of $12,540,114. This was in 1890. Riverside comprises a large area of fertile land. Much of this territory is desert, but the majority of the eastern end of the county is susceptible of cultivation. In point of size, the county is about as large as the State of Massa- chusetts. The population numbers 13,745, mainly located in the northwestern portion. The northeastern portion is de- voted almost entirely to citrus culture, while the vast area of the San Jacinto plains is devoted to agriculture pending the development of water for irrigation. Some idea of the extent of this industry may be obtained when it is stated that over 200,000 acres are now sown to grain, showing an average yield for the entire area of nearly 13 cwt. per acre or nearly 20 bushels, with a maximum yield in favored localities of from 30 to 45 bushels per acre. Nearly all this land is under first-class irrigation systems. The Bear Val- ley Water Company has extended its pipe lines to supply Perris, Alessandro and Moreno. The Riverside Construc- tion Company is also developing artesian-water-bearing land, while the great Lake Hefnet water system is bringing under irrigation a large portion of the magnificent alluvial land of the San Jacinto Valley. The county has, therefore, just reached that stage of development where it only re- quires population to stimulate progress. The conditions which made Riverside the wealthiest city, per capita, in the United States, and perhaps in the world, are all present in this outlying territory, and its acquisition of wealth will be in ratio as its population increases. The scenery is enchanting, especially in the famous San Jacinto Valley, where the deep amethyst hue of the beauti- ful hills challenges the enthusiasm of all who behold them. The entire country is divided into broad valleys between low, irregular foot-hills crowned by the lofty San Jacinto 136 niDiinlaiiis, wlmsr liij^licst crests ;irc jK-rpctiially snow capped. Jhesc mountains and foot-hills contain large mineral de- posits, and mining is one of the most important industries of the region. Many large gold and silver bearing mines arc in operation near Perris. Coal is also mined near Elsinore and Corona. This region not only possesses remarkable climate and soil, but also has an abundance of water, and citrus and de- ciduous fruits, the fig and pomegranate, vegetables of mam- moth proportions, alfalfa and all kinds of cereals may be grown on the same acre of ground with a great degree of success. ^ — y Mf * — Wr^ CHAPTER IX. I.OS ANGELES — THE METROPOLIS OF SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA. Ciudad dc la Rcina dc Los Angeles, (City of the Queen of the Angels) picturesque in name as in location, the verdure of whose shady streets and flowery lawns is for- ever green, and whose invigorating atmosphere, beautiful homes and business enterprise charm and attract alike the visitor, the sojourner and the resident, is, in size, the second city in California. The very name, Los Angeles, has, in the last few years become a talisman to attract from all quarters of our com- mon country and from foreign lands, tourists, health seekers and investors in large and ever increasing numbers. Its rapid increase in population, independent of any fleeting influences attests the strength of the attractions that the city and surrounding country offer. In 1880 its inhabitants numbered a trifle over 11,000; in 1890, somewhat over 50,- 000; while now, January, 1904, a conservative estimate, based upon the school and directory canvasses, places the number within the corporate limits at 145,000. FOUNDATION OF THE CITY. More than a hundred years ago the town was founded ; but, born in romance and cradled in dreamy ease, it passed the first fifty years of its existence in a quiet indolence that gave little promise of a future greatness, or of its present commercial importance. Yet, the fathers of the old San Gabriel Mission chose wisely when in 1781 they located the pueblo. Twelve Mex- ican soldiers of the Mission guard, whose terms of service had expired, and who, with their families were too much 'ifr Wi'^. Hii^ 139 in love with the country and its climate to return to their earlier homes, were the first settlers of the infant town. It was on the 7th of September, 1781, that Governor Felipe de Neve issued the order from the San Gabriel Mission, establishing a town or pueblo at the present site of Los Angeles, to be under the protection of Nticstra Senora La Reina de Los Angeles, and there these twelve soldiers, turning their spears into pruning hooks, began to build a town and plant orchards and vineyards. GROWTH OF THE CITY. Very slow indeed was the growth of the town for fifty, yea for eighty years. The opening of the Santa Fe trail, in 183T, first brought commercial activity within its borders. It brought the overland teamster and the store and ware- house to furnish the supplies for the interior between the Rockies and the Pacific. In 1835, it had become the Capital of California. Nine j'ears later, during the war with Mexico, it formed the center of warlike operations between the scant Mexican soldiery and citizens and the handful of United States troops under Commodore R. F. Stockton and General J. C. Fremont, as before recounted. At that time the inhabitants of this, the metropolis of the coast, numbered but a trifle over 2,000 souls. Gold was fir.^t discovered in California in Los Angeles county some 35 miles from the city, but neither this not yet the discovery of gold near San Francisco and the overland migration of the days of '49, served to effect to any considerable extent the growth or prosperity of the "City of the Queen of the Angels." Adobe houses and mud streets were good enough as yet for its drowsy people. In i860 the population had increased to 4,300, of whom some 500 only were Americans. Seventeen years later the Southern Pacific Railway built its line from San Francisco I40 to Los Angeles, overlaiul rail connection followed and the city began to throw off its ancient lethargy and to rise to the natural advantages of its location. In 1885 a second transcontinental line — the Santa Fe — arrived, giving direct rail connection with Chicago and the East, and thenceforth the city has grown, is still growing, and will doubtlessly conlini-.e to grow, svith giant strides. The impetus given by the influx of so much fresh blood and so much new busi- ness as followed the advent of the Santa Fe Railway brought on a speculative fever that resulted in a wild mania for inflating values to unheard of heights. This phase is gen- erally known and referred to as "The Boom." Few cities of her size and youth, for remember — but a few years since Los Angeles was a small town of scarce 5.000 people, — a collection of adobe or frame one-story buildings, with only occasionally one rising to the dignity of a two-storied mansion, — not many towns of her age, liuis considered, can boast of the marvelous growth she has made. But then, Los Angeles is favored by nature and by her location as is no other city. Situated midway between the ocean and the mountains which lie in plain view of one another and both in plain sight of the Angelenos. or citizen of Los Angeles, having three ports of entry for shipping, and being the largest railway centre in the State, she is in a position to control a vast commerce, to secure the trade of a great number of tributary towns that are springing up as tlic surrounding valleys are being settled, and become the entrepot for the vast oriental trade that will ultimately seek the shortest, easiest and cheapest route to the great markets of the Mississippi and Atlantic States, as well as for the coast-wise traffic that is likely to assume enormous proportions with the opening of the Trans-Isthmian canal. The topography of the city differs in a great measure 141 from that of any other CaHfornia city or town of im- portance. San Francisco is essentially a city of hills. In the great inland valleys of the Sacramento and San Joaquin, cities and towns arise from the open plain with only a hil- lock here and there. Los Angeles spreads over an extent of both heights and flat country. To the west and north- west of the business portion of the city there is an abrupt rise of several hundred feet to a series of commanding heights, well bedecked with homes, many of which were built by the more wealthy American residents of the Cali- fornian-Mexican town of fifteen and twenty years ago. On the extreme northwestern border line of Los Angeles proper, overlooking the river bed, which carries a stream varying in volume southerly and westerly to the ocean, stretch the hills of Elysian Park, destined to be one of the most beautiful and extensive city domains in America. Directly across this bed of the Los Angeles River is what is known as East Los Angeles. This district contains many pretty homes, and on its eastern border the beautiful East Side Park. Four electric railway lines lead from Los An- geles proper into this community, over the Buena Vista bridge, Downey avenue viaduct, and East Main street bridge; and over the Macy street bridge run the through Los Angeles and Pasadena electric lines. To the southeast of E^st Los Angeles, still on the east side of the river bed, with a mile extent of open country intervening, is the dis- trict known as Boyle Heights. First street is the main thoroughfare leading from the city, bridging the river near the Santa Fe Depot, to this community. Boyle Heights has a few business blocks and many comfortable homes. Ever- green Cemetary, the Sisters' Orphan Asylum and Hollen- beck Park are in this suburl) of our city. This park is reached by the green cars which cross Spring and Main streets on Third street. 142 Main slrcct, rmininK iiortli and southeast, is the great (hviding line of the city. Eastward, between Main street and the river, extending about to Seventh street on the south, lies the wholesale district, although in this territory from Fifth street there are many modern homes. From Seventh street, cast of Main, stretching fan-shaped toward the southeast, is a populous residence portion of the city. Here are hundreds of picturesque cottage homes and many handsome residences of more pretension. For uniformity of pleasing architecture, a characteristic of Los Angeles homes, this section of the city is no exception. In order to view the city west of the dividing line. Main street, the stranger will be compensated by leaving, say Spring and Second streets, on the Second street car line, and in a few minutes is directly above the two great retail trade streets. Spring and Broadway, on the heights to the westward. This northwestern corner is a series of hills and vales. Residences surrounded by spacious grounds are here numerous ; but above all the commanding feature in this district is the oil industry. Hundreds of derricks, averaging 65 feet in height, dot the landscape. Beautiful lawns and finely cultivated shrubbery, bowers and gardens in residence grounds, have given way to the drill of the oil prospector, and for several miles to the southwest the line of development work is clearly discernable. The boarder- line of the hill district is properly Seventh street, a splendid avenue, which leads to Westlake Park. The Second street car line, on which we will assume the traveler is riding, reaches its destination at Seventh and Alvarado streets at the park just mentioned. In the great area of the angles formed by the boundaries of Main on the east and Seventh on the north, lies what is probably the most attractive residence portion of the city. 143 The Westlake district is included in this — where surround- ing the lake itself are many magnificent homes. In addition to the dividing line made by Main street is the one made by First street. As these two lines cross each other they divide the city naturally into four definite and distinct quarters. First street runs east and west. All north of First, therefore, are so signified as North ]\Iain, North Los Angeles, North Vignes, etc., while those south are called South Main^ South Spring, etc. Spring street, running almost due north and south, divides the streets into east and west. It is well, therefore, in hunting for any house on a street that crosses one of these dividing lines to know definitely whether it be north, south, east or west. Los Angeles Parks. — Los Angeles is in itself one great park ; the soil, situation and climatic conditions make it so. Seemingly endless varieties of flowers, plants, shrubs and trees, with fountains and statuary, covering wide stretches of lawn, may frequently be found in private grounds, and many of the citizens of Los Angeles might truly claim their own home gardens as parks. Within a marvelously short space of time, everything in plant life, with the least assistance from the hand of man, grows luxuriously and attains a degree of excellence which closely approaches perfection. Exotics and rare plants of other climes, but indifferently cultivated in this land of the olive and the vine, are scattered in the utmost profusion and become objects too frequently met with to be appreciated by the spoiled denizen of this fair Southland. But there are many beautiful public parks within the corporate limits of Los Angeles, and one especially large one which is situated a short distance outside the city. Central Park, consisting of a block of beautiful lawns, shrubs, trees and flowers, is in the very heart of the city. 144 hctwccMi Fifth, Sixtli, Hill and Olive streets. At the Fifth and Mill street entrance one is faced by a cannon which was presented to the city by General Shaftcr as a trophy of the war with Spain. There is also a fine monument erected in honor of the brave soldiers of the Seventh California Infantry, U. S. V. This park is within walking distance of the centre of the city. It is estimated that nearly 300,000 people visited this park in 1903. 'I he Old Plaza which is a very pretty breathing spot, is situated at Marchessault, Main and Los Angeles streets, and together with the ^^lission Church, erected in 1818, before which it lies, is chiefly interesting historically. Just the other side of the Plaza is situated Chinatown. Truly they seem strange neighbors. East Lake Park contains about fifty-six acres. The lake is not large, covering an area of eight acres, but being 145 flanked on two of its sides by trees, whose branches trail in the water, a bank of water lilies covering one end and the other affording a view of a pretty bridge and waterfall just behind it, makes the whole a thing of beauty. The drives, and the walks, through wide avenues of trees, or dividing large areas of lawn, and the conservatorj^ which supplies the flora for all the other parks of the city, together with a magnificent view of the surrounding country and city from the knoll at the extreme eastern end of the park, The Old Plaza Mission Chapel. make it one of the most popular parks of Los Angeles. The children's playground and the rather large collection of birds and animals are also quite prominent features. Music every Sunday afternoon is another strong attraction. The landscape gardening here employed and the general appearance of the park give one more of an impression of nature itself than that presented elsewhere throughout the city. This park is situated in East Los Angeles, between Alhambra Road and East Main street, and is reached direct by either the Downey avenue or East Main street cars, to which transfers are given from nearly all other car lines of the city. Echo Park, thirty-three acres in extent, consists of a lake covering about eighteen acres, nestled in among rolling 146 hills and cliffs and held by a short dam which seems rooted there by numerous tall and stately eucalyptus trees. It is fringed with the most entrancing willows and beauti- ful plants and shrubs, with everywhere the palms, true wit- ness to a climate seldom equalled and never excelled. It is easily reached by the Temple street car line or the foothill route of the Santa Monica Railway, as it is situated just north of Temple street on Lake Shore avenue. HoUenbcck Park, the playground of Boyle Heights, lies at the intersection of East Fourth street and Boyle avenue, covers an area of twenty-six acres and is reached by either the Traction or Boyle Heights cars. It is long and narrow, and within a stone's throw of the beautiful Hollenbeck Home for Aged People. A crescent-shaped lake glitters and shimmers in the everlasting sunshine of this Mecca of the tourist and tempest-tossed Eastern visitor. Boats are here obtainable, as they are in most of the city parks, a curious bicycle boat adding its charms to this particular spot. A pretty aviary lends its feathered inmates to the attractiveness of the scene. Prospect Park, having an area of three acres, is situated in Boyle Heights on Echandia street, on the line of the ^V'v 147 Brooklyn avenue cars, and affords a fine view of the Sierra Madre Mountains. It adds to its attraction of trees, flowers and shrubs, many of which are very rare, a stone fountain containing myriads of goldfish. H.II.« U.k H.O,* ~" _ _ Sunset Park consists of a twelve-acre tract of land on West Seventh street, a short distance beyond West Lake Park, and is entirely unimproved, being at present leased by the city to private individuals for oil purposes. It lies in a swale, but may at some future time be beautifully arranged; nothing can be done, however, until after the expiration of the leases which are now held upon it. South Park, twenty acres in extent, and situated on Stanley avenue, near Vernon, may be reached by the Ver- no avenue car, together with a walk of perhaps a quarter of a mile to the west. This tract of land was purchased by the city in 1898, and set out in small trees and shrubs of many varieties. The plan of the park has already been agreed upon, but there are as yet no paths or roads, or flowers. It is a park on paper — a mere sketch. St. James's Park, an acre in extent, is situated in the midst of the finest residences in Los Angeles, one of its entrances being on Adams street, a short distance west of Figueroa. It has the appearance of being a continuance of the surrounding gardens, which lend it the air of a ])rivate park. The University car takes one to the immedi- ate vicinity. 148 ll'csl Lake J'ark is the most accessible, and is perhaps for that reason the best patronized, it being reached by three lines of street cars; one starting from the corner of Spring and Second streets ; one traversing First street westwardly to Broadway, southerly on Broadway to Seventh, and westwardly on Seventh ; the other running westwardly on Third to Hill, southerly on Hill to Eighth, and thence westwardly to the park. West Lake Park is situated at the intersection of Seventh and Alvarado streets and is in the form of an oblong basin, containing about thirty-five acres, ten acres of which are covered by the lake. The drives and walks are well kept and wind around the lake through rare trees and shrubs ; the boating is most excellent, and a small collection of birds and animals also offers amusement. A beautiful band-stand has been erected, and every Sunday afternoon open-air band concerts are provided, adding greatly to the attraction and pleasure of the day. Elysian Park, situated in the northwestern part of the city, covering an area of 532 acres, which may be reached by the Daly street cars, is sure of a high place in 149 t!ie estimation of all who have an eye for the grand and beautiful in scenery. From it, stretch on stretch and row on row of lowland and mountain range lie before one; in winter, the more distant ranges are capped with snow, while beneath, the valleys and hills are clothed in green. At even, gazing from the summit of its lofty, though ac- cessible hills upon the diversified panorama, the reflected glow of setting sun and earth and sky, one feels in truth carried to those fields whereof it bears the name. It is not under cultivation to the extent of West Lake or East Lake, but through it passes some of the water supply to the city, forming an artificial creek and small lake, while it possesses an exceptionally fine boulevard. Entering by way of Buena "\''ista street, at Fremont Gate, named for General John C. Fremont, one has a drive or walk which can hardly be excelled. The latter part of the drive, however, as one emerges from the park at Chavez Ravine, just after passing tl'C nursery, changes in character and is certainly not grand in point of scenery, nor picturesque in that sense, but has an attraction due to one's curiosity "in seeing the wheels go round;" in other words, some of the foundations of the city's prosperity are here visible. Brick kilns and oil wells are on every hand. Toward night, the brick kilns are not unpicturesque and have an attraction aside from the economic factor. Griffith Park is a tract of 3,015 acres presented to the city of Los Angeles by Griffith J. Griffith in 1896. It is the largest park ever donated to any city. The Los Angeles River courses along its eastern border for a distance of three miles, and a mountain near its western border, named Griffith Peak, rises to a height of nearly 1,700 feet, afford- ing an extensive view which includes three mountain ranges, a considerable section of the Pacific Ocean, and about twenty cities and smaller towns. On its southern slope is ISO a icKioii known as ihc Cahucnga Frostlcss Belt, upon which il is contcmphitcd lo establish a government botanical arboretum. Several large ferny and wooded canyons open towards the cast, furnishing delightful picnic grounds. A herd of lOO North American elks are to be located on the northern slopes where forage and tree shelter are abundant. An electric railway under construction will convey pas- sengers from Los Angeles to the heart of the park at tht head of Vermont Canyor -■* which point Eddy's electric in- cline, (the Eagle's Fligl- , ,800 feet in length, will transfer them to the grand outlo' the summit of Griffith Peak, where pavilions and an .atory are located. A condi- tion of Mr. Griffith's dc, ion was that railway transporta- tion to the park should .../er exceed five cents. Chinatozvn — Near th- Plaza is Chinatown, where some five hundred Chinese are huddled together. One should hear the Chinese band play on the veranda, as it often does about noon-time, and also visit the Chinese theatre at night. When seeing Chinatown, especially at night, it is advisable to go in the company of some friend who understands the heathen's ways, or with a policeman. For, to a stranger, John is non-committal. You may come and you may go, but John will not show you the way, nor understand you nor talk to you. You would be likely to come away without seeing nearly all you went to see. Its joss houses, strange stores, restaurants, where one knows not what one eats, and various tales of grasshoppers, snails, reptiles and other dainties are whispered around, its gambling hells and opium dens — all the wickedness of its old civilization, if it may be so called, combined with the new. There is a bright side to the picture, for the Chinaman is frugal and industrious, and, though many may smoke opium, a drunken Chinaman is almost unknown — it being against his religiou to indulge in strong drink. The 151 gaudy colorings of their surroundings, quaint costumes and odd, little women who stump around in the stiffest of shoes, with their moon-faced, sober-looking babies and children, attract the curiosity, at least, of all women. When entering the joss houses all are expected to buy little tapers, which are burned before their gods, each Chinaman, as he enters, sticking a taper in a receptacle already holding those still burning from previous devotees. Chinamen apparently re- quire less air than other mortals, for a half dozen will sleep crowded together, one bunk over another, like shelves, in a small room hardly fit for one, and frequently several stories underground. The small windows are often grated, for they seem to stand in dread of each other. One can enter and see them smoking the famous opium pipe. China- town has a theatre, which is remarkable for its primitive A Chinese Joss. A Chinese Actor. •./vH wr-'A V-'^» '^ ' "i::;mi'-i^'^^] ^ ^ :vi^^ A House in Chinatown. 153 character. The plays are continuous, and the audience shifting. There are no actresses, as the men take the parts of both sexes. Their music, which seems incessant, is more in the nature of our cymbals, drum, fife and bagpipe than other of our instruments, and they certainly succeed in half deafening unaccustomed ears. Their voices are generally in a high key, seemingly destitute of bassos and contraltos. Of scenery, there may be said to be none, as surroundings are merely indicated, the balance being left entirely to the imagination. Their costumes, however, are often gorgeous in the extreme, consisting of beautiful silks and much gold embroidery. To see the Chinese costumes to the very best advantage, one should witness a parade during Fiesta or other gala occasion. Then, too, they dis- play their immense dragon, which is about a block in length. It is carried by numerous silk-gowned Chinamen, who con- stantly move from side to side in rhythmic involutions of the dragon. It is itself made of the most costly silks and gold embroideries and is a feature of Chinese life, forming a part of their religion. A Chinaman precedes the serpent, dancing before the monster, while those carrying the head dart in all directions with it. The markets of Chinatown present a strange appearance. There appears to be no distinction between filth and clean- liness. Pork in all varieties and styles seems to be the principal meat diet ; fish are also used to a considerable extent, although rice is with them the very "stafif of life." Many live on it entirely, with the addition of a small amount of fat pork. Tea is their great drink. County Court House. — This fine modern structure was erected in 1893 of red sandstone from Flagstaff, Arizona. It stands on the corner of Temple and New High streets, and cost in the neighborhood of one million dollars. County Officials. — William H. Savage, State Senator, 34th 154 District; I'cnjaniin W. Ilalni, State Senator, 36tli District; I''. M. Smitli, State Senator, 37tli District; Cornelius VV. rcndlcton, State Senator, 38th District; John A. Goodrich, Assemblyman, 67th District; W. A. Johnstone, Assembly- man, 68th District; Edgar W. Camp, Assemblyman, 69th District; VV. II. Kelso, Assemblyman, 70th District; Philip A. Stanton, Assemblyman, 71st District; H. S. G. McCartney, Assemblyman, 72d District; J. P. Transue, Assemblyman, 73d District; Frederick W. Houser, Assemblyman, 74th District ; Henry E. Carter, Assemblyman, 75th District ; Will A. White, Sheriff; Charles G. Keyes, County Clerk; H. G. Dow, Auditor; Calvin Hartwell, Recorder; William O. Welch, Tax Collector; J. D. Fredericks, District At- torney ; Ben E. Ward, Assessor ; Mark G. Jones, Treasurer ; Mark Keppei, Superintendent of Schools ; D. C. McGarvin, Public Administrator; J. H. Trout, Coroner; Leo V. Young- worth, Surveyor. Supervisors. — O. W. Longden, First District; George Alexander, Second District; Al. J. Graham, Third District; P. J. Wilson, Fourth District; C. E. Patterson, Fifth Dis- trict. Justices of tlie Peace and Constables of Los Angeles County. — Antelope Township, Olcott S. Bulkley, Justice, Little Rock ; Oliver Witchell, Constable, Lancaster. Azusa Township, G. E. Glover, Justice, Azusa; Barney S. Byron, Azusa. Ballona Township, Rezin W. Davis, Justice, Gardena ; W. F. Pope, Constable, University Station. Burbank Township, Gano Henry, Justice, Burbank ; Charles Catlin, Constable, Glendale. Cahuenga Township, F. M. Chaffee, Justice, Hollywood ; M. L. Reyes, Constable, Hollywood. Chatsworth Township, Frank Hawley, Justice, Chats- worth ; Frederick A. Graves, Constable, Chatsworth. 155 Calabasas Township, E. P. Beckwith, Justice, Calabasas; M. D. Nash, Constable, Calabasas. Catalina Township, William Allen, Justice, Avalon; Vin- cent Moricich, Constable, Avalon. Compton Township, J. L. Morden, Justice, Compton ; Charles G. Davidson, Constable, Compton. Downey Township, Lewis P. Phillips, Justice, Downey; F. B. Glasgow, Constable, Downey. El Monte Township, J. B. Holloway, Justice; Alonrovia; Robert Hicks, Constable, Duarte. Fairmont Township, G. O. Hughes, Justice, Manzana ; Herbert N. Smith, Constable, Del Sur. Long Beach Township, W. S. Brayton, Justice, Long Beach; R. M. Lynn, Constable, Long Beach. Los Angeles Township, William Young, Justice; J. H. De La Monte, Constable. Los Nietos Township, L. M. Baldwin, Justice, Whittier; J. W. Davis, Constable, Los Nietos. Norwalk Township, E. B. Truitt, Justice; John Dettle, Constable. Pasadena Township, Roscoe P. Congdon, Justice, Pasa- dena ; H. F. Newell, Constable, Pasadena. Pasadena Township, H. H. Klamroth, Justice, Pasadena; S. L. Wallis, Constable, Pasadena. Redondo Township, Welcome Smith, Justice, Redondo ; H. Usrey, Constable, Redondo. Rowland Township, Charles F. Parker, Justice, Covina ; George Van Vliet, Constable, Covina. San Gabriel Township, W. M. Northrup, Justice, San Gabriel ; Edmund W. Stanton, Constable, Alhambra. San Jose Township, E. Barnes, Justice, Pomona ; F. O. Slanker, Constable, Pomona. Santa Monica Township, A. L. Jenness, Justice, Santa Monica ; H. L Pritchard, Constable, Santa Monica. 156 San Antonio Townsliij), J. JIuward Russell, Justice, Florence ; OIc A. Nelson, Constable, Green Meadows. San Fernando Township, J. H. Barclay, Justice, Fer- nando ; F. E. Strader, Constable, San Fernando. Solcdad Township, J. F. Powell, Justice, Lang; \V. E. Pardee, Constable, Lang. South Pasadena Township, George Gleason, Justice, South Pasadena ; M. B. Reid, Constable, South Pasadena. Wilmington Township, H. C. Downing, Justice, San Pedro; Carl T. Carlson, Constable, San Pedro. Los Angeles City, Joseph Chambers and H. C. Austin, Justices, Los Angeles. County Board of Horticultural Commissioners. — O. R. W. Robinson, Chairman; Stephen Strong; J. W. Jeffries, Sec- retary. County-Board of Education. — Mrs. Jennie Coleman, Fred W. Shoemaker, F. A. Bonelle, George E. Larkey, Mark Keppel, Secretary. Public Administrator. — D. C. McGarvin. BONDED INDEBTEDNESS OF LOS ANGELES COUNTY, JUNE 30, I9O2. 1884. July I.... Bonds of 1884. .6 per ct.. .Semi-Annually. .1904 1885. $11,500.00 July I. .. .Bonds of 1885. .4; 2 per ct.. .Semi-.\nnually. .1905 1887. $100,000.00 July I.. ..Bonds of 1887. .4 J/' per ct.. .Semi-.\nnual. .1907 1890. $69,000.00 July I.. ..Bonds of 1890. .5 per ct.. .Semi-Annually. . 1910 $153,000.00 Total Bonded Indebtedness, County Bonds. .. .$333,500.00 157 STATEMENT OF PROPERTY BELONGING TO LOS ANGELES COUNTY, JUNE 30, 1902. New Court House $906,272.21 New Court House Furniture 132,247.45 County Jail 86,686.18 County Hospital 87,827.10 County Farm 95,389.44 Lots and Land (Temple street property) 16,346.07 Bridges 162,492.72 Lands, Rights of Way, Roads 20,084.83 Road Implements 17,443.96 Common School Property, including Furniture. 1,714,030.16 Common School Libraries 49,510.00 Law Library Books, etc 30,927.77 Maps, etc 39,ogi.i2 Other Personal Property 9,921.81 Sprinkling System 6,260.33 Temple Street Jail 2,100.00 Total Valuation $3,376,640.15 5 '■^ V 4-1 _ oc o ^ «o m r- -t o ^^ eo ,.4 O) OS cc- lO •^ t- 00 c» t~ (?> lO e» O) 1.^ r- oc s o os o o tn O) o Oi CO os_ ^ t- OS oo_ ^^ O) 3 = r- lO CO 05 -t 'O r- o o* CO ,_• f-" CO «o" >* r- 1—t CO -r ^ OS ■?» CO in OS CO c> si o -f » 00 •7* -r I- i.O c> co_ a eo" Oi cf CI I- Oi" -^' Os" ej CO* oo" o" eo* so' a> CD 00 00 r- t- 00 OS OS OS OS o o e 1-H 1-1 09 « *; O _"■ _•-• _-;• -^ o o O o »o CO c o l~ 00 eo^ o CO — » ^-. 00 lO «o '^ CO lO t- Tjt lO I- OS 00 •^ X 09 • ^■o ^^ "■ '^ '- '"' "" '^ •"■ "" — — ' -" OJ »-' "« ♦< 3 O ^ ■.\ « o o o o o o o lO CO o '— V * ^ — ^ o « M CO o> CO CO CO CO CO -f LO io ^ 3 oc e« *•• o H ^ ■\'^ •- o o o o CO o o o to eo o eo^ o o CO C) ^, C-J CO OJ ^ CJ eo T)« eo ■^ c» ^ .-( .-^ T— ^^ .,— — ,_ .-c r-i ,-1 -^ _ ^. ^ O e ^" >, ---, :<^ ^^ 00 -t< » t- f^ IC ^^ 1^ OS m 00 B 00 a LT » m o ^H t- -* ■^ OS CO c> 3 O o c- «o lO t- t~ J> t- CO t- 30 e- 00 OS 00 0) (M CO ri< » CO I.O Oi 00 30 N 13 c» oo •<*< eo t- Si X) Oi y—l 00 o OS 30 30 1> »o T}< rr o ■^ CO •rf o ■* cc ■«r •V CO C/3 t. OS o w ■* Irt CO t- 30 OS C ei ce 00 c; s 3S cs a OS OS c: c; ^ o o a> CO 00 OJ 00 30 ao 30 00 30 00 oc * OS OS > 159 TJic Cily Hall, on Broadway, near Second, is another public building of which the Angelenos are proud. It cost about $200,000. In this building" are the Public Library and Free Reading Room. — Miss M. L. Jones, Librarian. The library occupies rooms -on the third Hoor of the city hall (South Broadwaj', between Second and Third streets), reached by an elevator running from 9 a. m. to 9:30 p. m. The library contains 81,305 volumes. The circulation for the past year was 806,556. The library is open from 9 a. m. to 9 130 p. m. Reading rooms, Sundays from I p. m. to 9 p. m. Telephone Main iioo. Branch Libraries.- — Macy street. Open from 6 to 9 p. m., except Sundays. Central avenue. 2507 Central avenue, open from» 6:30 p. m. to 9 p. m., except Sundays. Vernon avenue. Open from 6:30 to 9:30 p. m., except Sundays. :6o Garvaiiza. Eagle Rock and 64tli streets. Library Delivery Stations. — Collections lo a. m., deliver- ies 4 p. m., Monday, Wednesday and Saturday. 1952 E. First street, Boyle Heights Drug Store. Hoover and Twenty-fourth streets, C. R. Smead. Daly street and Pasadena avenue, W. A. Harmon. 2681 W. Pico street, H. E. Howard. 2100 W. Seventh street, Westlake Pharmacy. Collections 2 p. m., deliveries 5 p. m., daily. Y. M. C. A. Rooms, Third and Hill streets. City Officials. — A roster of the city officials for the years 1903-1904 follows: Mayor, Hon. M. P. Snyder, Tel. Main 771; Mayor's Clerk, Foster C. Wright; City Clerk, H. J. Lelande, Tel. Main 373 ; Auditor, E. E. Unger, Tel. Main 1 190; Assessor, F. W. Wismer, Tel. Main 1073; Attorney, W. B. Matthews, Tel. Main 689; Treasurer, W. H. Work- man, Tel. Main 1083 ; Tax and License Collector, E. E. Johnson, Tel. Main 1059; Engineer, H. F. Stafford, Tel. Main 851; Street Superintendent, E. R. Werdin ; Water Overseer, Geo. D. Pessell ; Superintendent of Buildings, Julius Krause; Board of Engineers, Frank Rademacher, J. J. Malone, Jack Connell ; City Electrician, Roland H. Manalian, Tel. Main 80; Chief of Police, Chas. Elton, Tel. Main 30; Chief of Fire Department, Thos. Strohm, Tel. Private Exchange. 21 ; Police Surgeon, Dr. A. M. Smith, Tel. Main 30; Superintendent of Parks, John G. Morley, Tel. Main 771 ; Health Officer, Dr. L. M. Powers; Inspector Weights and Measures, J. G. Estudillo ; Boiler Inspector, J. B. Holloway; Oil Inspector, Chas. Blackmer; Meat In- spector, Fred T. Hughes ; Milk Inspector, George L. Pierce ; Plumbing Inspector, A. A. Bennett. City Council. — Meetings Monday, lo a. m.. City Hall. William M. Bowen, President; H. J. Lelande, City Clerk, cx-officio Clerk of Council ; Owen Mc.Meer, First Ward ; i6i C. F. Skilling, Second Ward; O. E. Farrish, Third Ward; Theo. Summerland, Fourth Ward ; W. M. Bowen, Fifth Ward ; J. P. Davenport, Sixth Ward ; Ed. Kern, Seventh Ward ; R. A. Todd, Eighth Ward ; F. U. Nofziger, Ninth Ward. _ ' Los Angeles Police Department. — Board of Police Com- missioners : The Mayor, Hon. M. P. Snyder, J. A. Keeney, S. R. Thorpe, George W. Walker, Willard H. Stimson. Meets every Tuesday at lo a. m. in the Mayor's office. Chief of Police, Charles Elton, appointed by Cimmissioners. Secretary to Chici, C. C. Chapman; Captain of Police, S. P. Hensley; Police Surgeaon, Dr. A. M. Smith; Police Matron, Mrs. L. V. GraJ^ The salaries of Police Depart- ment are as follows, except the Chief, who is a city official : Captains, $150 per month; lieutenants, $125 per month; de- tectives, $125 per month; sergeants, $115 per month; sec- retary of Police Department, $115 per month; secretary to the chief of police, $115 per month ; bailiffs, $115 per month ; police matron, $75 per month ; assistant matron, $65 per month ; special policemen, $75 per month for the time actu- ally employed ; each patrolman, $75 per month for first year; $83,331-3 per month for second year; $91,662-3 per month during third year, and $100 per month thereafter. Captain and chain gang, $100 per month ; mounted guard of chain gang, $75 per month ; foot guard of chain gang, $60 per month. Los Angeles Fire Department. — This is located at 217 South Hill street. The paid Fire Department of the city of Los Angeles was organized February i, 1886. It now con- sists of one hundred and twenty firemen, eleven steam fire engines in service, two in reserve, one Hayes truck, one Babcock aerial truck, two city trucks, one four-wheel hose carriage, three two-wheel hose carts, two chemical engines. In connection with the department is a fire alarm telegraph 1 62 with ISO miles of wire, 210 automatic boxes. There are 676 hydrants in use. Board of Fire Commissioners : The Mayor, Hon. M. P. Snyder, Major J. W. F. Diss, Jacob Kurtz, J. P. Yates, A. P. Thompson. Meetings held every Monday at 10 a. m. in Mayor's office. Chief Engineer, Thos. Strohm, office 217 South Hill, 8 a. m. to 5 p. m. Clerk of Department, Robert W. Burns; Electrician, R. H. Manahan, Room 5, City Hall. Salaries of the Fire Depart- ment: The Chief is a city official; assistant chief, $175 per month; secretary to the department, $115 per month; engineer of first class, $120 per month ; engineers of second class, $110 per month; relief engineers, $100 per month: captains of first class, $125 per month ; captains of second class, $115 per month; lieutenants, $90 per month; drivers of first class, $85 per month ; drivers of second class. $80 per month ; drivers of third class, $75 per month ; tiller- men, $80 per month ; hosemen and laddermen, $60 per month first year; $70 per month second year; $80 per month during third and subsequent term of service. Drivers of supply wagons, $60 per month first year, $65 second, $70 per month during third and subsequent term of service. Park Commissioners. — Meetings second and fourth Thursdays, 10 a. m.. Mayor's office. Chairman. Mayor !M. P. Snyder; Frank B. Harbert, James Russell, B. R. Jones, Dr. D. W. Stewart. Board of Health. — Meetings first Monday. 4 p. m. Chair- man, Mayor T^T. P. Snyder; Dr. S. S. Salisbury. Dr. W. W. Beckett. Dr. Geo. W. Campbell, Dr. W. W. Hitchcock. Trustees of Public Library. — Meetings Tuesdays, 3 :30 p. m.. at Public Library rooms in City Hall. J. Ross Clark. President: T. B. Dockweiler. Dr. D. W. Edelman. \. W. Fisher, Dr. J. W. Trueworthy. City Board of Education. — President, Dr. H. Bert Ellis: N. S. Averill, Secretary; Prof. J. A. Foshay, Superintend- i63 ent; J. B. Millard, Deputy Superintendent; W. W. Tritt, Assistant Superintendent. Regular meetings of the board are held at the general office, 6io Laughlin Building, 315 S. Broadway, on the second and fourth Wednesdays of each calendar month at 7:30 p. m. Teachers' Committee meets i :30 p. m. in Superintendent's office on Saturday preceding regular meetings of the board. Finance Committee meets in Secretary's office at 3 p. m., on Saturdays preceding regular meetings of the board. All claims not filed on Friday preceding said Saturday will be laid over until next meeting. Office hours for school business : J. A. Foshay, Super- intendent, 612 Laughlin Building— School days, 8:00 to 9 :30 and 4 to 5 ; Saturdays, 9 to 12. J. B. Millard. Deputy Superintendent, 618 Laughlin Building — School days, 3:30 to 5:00; Saturdays, 1:30 to 4:00. W. W. Tritt. Assistant Superintendent — -School days, 3:30 to 5:30; Saturdays, 9 to 12. Members. — First Ward, Roger S. Page; Second Ward, Percy V. Hammon ; Third Ward, S. A. Bulfinch ; Fourth Ward, H. Bert Ellis; Fifth Ward. Chas. Monroe; Sixth Ward, W. T. Goodhue ; Seventh Ward, Catesby C. Thom ; Eighth Ward, W. J. Horgan; Ninth Ward. E. M. Jessup. City Pound. — Corner Porter and Santa Fe. 'Phone 939. Take Mateo Street Line from First and Santa Fe avenue. CHy Police Court. — 326 West First street. Los Angeles Orphan Asylums. — As one gazes across the river from the depots, or hotels, or business streets, or the heights back of them, the most conspicuous object that meets his eye is the large four-story brick building of the Los Angeles Orphan Asylum. It is a fine building, and of a size that will surprise the visitor who takes the trouble of crossing to the corner of Boyle and Stephenson avenues 1 64 to sec it. As you look from the city you sec the rear of the building. It stands in a field of some nine or ten acres, not yet improved to any extent. The building was erected in i8gi-2 at a cost of $150,000 by Architects Curlett & Eisen, and for light, for roomy freedom, for thorough ventilation and all that makes such a place desirable, it is unsurpassed. It is supported in part by the State and by the general charities of the Catholic Church and the income from day pupils or boarders. Other asylums are: Orphans Asylums. — Los Angeles Orphan Home, corner of Yale and Alpine streets. Home of the Guardian Angel, for little children — 2>2iZ S. Figueroa, Telephone James 1176. California Children's Home Society — 25th and Griffith avenue. Hospitals. — Many good public and private hospitals are to be found in Los Angeles and vicinity, and their general excellence is attested by many grateful patients, including the most reliable and trustworthy of her citizens. Bellevue Sanitarium, 727 Bellevue avenue. California Hospital, 1414 South Hope street. Christian Hospital, 1301 South Hope street. French Benevolent Society Hospital, 913 Castelar street. Good Samaritan Hospital, 924 West Seventh street. Los Angeles County Hospital, 1106 Mission road. Los Angeles Eye and Ear Hospital, 347 Grand avenue. Los Angeles Hospital, 2515 Hoover street. Los Angeles Infirmary (Sisters' Hospital), North Beau- dry avenue, west end Alpine. Pacific Hospital, 13 19 South Grand avenue. St. Agnes Hospital, 1022 South Flower street. Receiving Hospital, South Side of First street, between Broadway and Hill streets. i65 County Hospital. — The county hospital is situated in East Los Angeles, on Mission road, at the intersection of Work- man street. It may be reached by the Pasadena electric cars, although the East Main street cars pass within about three blocks to the north of the main entrance. Many trained nurses are employed, and three graduates from the medical college are accepted each year as internes. The buildings and premises cover several acres, and the situa- tion and general arrangement are good. Hollenbeck Home. — Situated on Boyle avenue, in Boyle Heights, occupying a most picturesque site, overlooking beautiful Hollenbeck Park, is a good Home for Aged People. It is called Hollenbeck Home, and represents one of the efforts of a most generous woman to make happy and bright the declining years of some of her fellow crea- tures. The Home was built, is conducted, and all expenses paid through the instrumentality of Mrs. E. Hollenbeck. The building is large and set in spacious grounds, most park-like in appearance. Everything shows the utmost care and solicitude on the part of Mrs. Hollenbeck that the inmates should be happy and enjoy life to the fullest possible extent. She has succeeded in her most laudable ambition, and to her is due all praise. Receiving Hospital. — Is situated on the south side of First street, between Broadway and Hill streets. Churches — There are many and various places of worship in Los Angeles and every sect and denomination has its followers and is apparently well represented. Those most prominent, with their respective locations, are as follows : Cathedral of St. Vihiana. — This Catholic cathedral was established in 1876. It is a fine old red brick structure on Main, below Second. Mass is said at 6, 7 :30 and 8 :30 o'clock. Solemn pontifical mass is celebrated at 10:30. First M. E. Church —The First M. E. Church, situated i66 on the northeast corner of Sixth and Hill streets, is the largest structure of its kind in the city, and probably no church in Southern California has as large a seating ca- pacity or is so well attended. The building is composed principally of pressed brick, and its architectural appearance is exceedingly good. Advent Churches. — Advent Christian — 140 Avenue 22. Seventh Day Adventist — 141 Carr street. Baptist Churches — American Baptist — Orchard avenue, S. W. corner W. 29th. Berean Baptist — 812 Stephenson avenue. Bethel Baptist — E. 25th, S. E. corner of Central avenue. Central — Corner W. Pico and S. Flower street. East Los Angeles — Corner S. Workman and Manitou avenue. First — 727 S. Flower street. First (German) — Corner E. 8th and Maple avenue. First (Swedish) — 717 W. 8th street. Memorial — S. Grand avenue, between W. 22d and W. 23d streets. Mount Zion (colored) — 719 Stevenson avenue. New Hope — 427 San Pedro street. Occidental Heights — Hicks, corner 1st street. Orchard Avenue — Orchard avenue, corner 29th street. Second (colored) — 740 Maple avenue. St. Pauls (colored) — 400 E. 6th street. Tabernacle (colored) — 952 Hemlock street. Catholic Churches — Roman. — Cathedral of St. Vibiana — E. s. S. Main, between E. 2d and E. 3d streets. Church of Oour Lady of the Angels — 535 N. Main street. Church of the Sacred Heart — N. E. corner Sichel and Baldwin streets. St. Joseph's — 1219 Santee street. St. Mary's — Corner 4th and Chicago streets. i67 St. Vincent's — Corner Grand avenue and Washington street. Cliristian Churches — Disciples of Clirist. — Broadway — 221 N. Broadway. Central — 3306 S. Main street. East Eighth Street — 1321 E. Eighth street. East Los Angeles — 151 N. Workman street. First — Corner Hope and nth streets. Christian Scientist Churches. — First Church of Christ (Scientist) — Masonic Temple, 431 S. Hill street. Second Church of Christ (Scientist) — 1338 S. Figueroa. Congregational Churches. — Bethelem (Institutional) — 502 Vignes street. Central Avenue — 1043 E. 2Sth street. East Los Angeles — 140 N. Daly street. First — Corner Hill and 6th streets. Olivet — Washington and Magnolia avenue. Park — 1248 Temple street. Pico Heights — 1136 El Molino street. Pilgrim — 251 E. Sth street. Plymouth — 654 W. 21st street. Swedish — 514 W. Sth street. Third — 1201 N. Main street. Vernon — 1276 E. Vernon avenue. West End — Corner Temple and Burtz. Episcopal Churches. — Christ Church — Corner Pico and Flower streets. Church of the Ascension — N. St. Louis, near Brooklyn. Church of the Epiphany — 146 N. Sichel street. Church of the Neighborhood — 9th and Wilson streets. St. Athanasins Mission — Court Circle, head of Court. St. Barnabas — Corner Vernon and Central avenue. St. John's — 514 W. Adams street. St. Paul's Pro-Cathedral — 525 S. Olive street. i68 Holiness Cliurclics — East Los Angeles Holiness — 1013 Altura street. Los Angeles Holiness — 2124 E. 9lh street. Jewish Synagogues. — Congregation B'nai B'rith — Wor- ships in Synagogue, corner 9th and Hope streets. Congregation Beth Israel — Worships at 131 J/2 S. Spring. Lutheran Churches. — First English — 800 S. Flower. First German — 755 S. Flower. Swedish — 425 W. Tenth. Methodist Churches. — African Methodist Episcopal — Zion, 122 San Pedro street. Evangelical Association (German Methodist) — 718 S. Olive street. Stevens African Methodist Episcopal — 312 Azusa street. Swedish jMcthodist — 717 S. Los Angeles street. Methodist Episcopal Churches. — Asbury — 146 N. Work- man street. Boyle Heights — 200 N. St. Louis street. Centennial — Washington and Hoover streets. Central — 131 W. 15th street. Central Avenue — Corner Central and Vernon avenues. Epworth — Bellevue avenue and Centennial. First German — Olive, near 5th street. First — Hill and 6th streets. Garvanza — Avenue 66 and Pasadena avenue. Grace — 235 Hewitt street. Harmony — Figueroa and La Joya streets. Haven — 929 E. 27th street. Nazarenc — Santee and 8th streets. Newman — Towne avenue, near 7th street. Norwegian and Danish — Denver avenue, corner loth street. Pico Heights — Fedora and W. Pico streets. Union Avenue — 301 N. Union avenue. i6g University — 1020 W. Jefferson street. Vincent — 119 E. 29th street. Wesley Chapel (colored) — 603 Maple avenue. Westlake — 8th street and Burlington avenue. Bellevue Avenue — 1035 Bellevue avenue. Mateo Street — 2001 E. Sixth street. Trinity — 845 S. Grand avenue. West End — 1809 S. Union avenue. Presbyterian Churches. — Bethany — Corner Bellevue ave- nue and Holliday street. Bethesda — Central avenue and 9th street. Boyle Heights — 132 N. Chicago street. Central — 209 S. Broadvi^ay. Church of the Redeemer — Jefferson and Vermont avenue. Chinese First Presbyterian — 214 Wilmington. Cumberland — loth and Union avenue. First — 20th and Figueroa streets. Grand View — Vermont avenue and 23d street. Highland Park — Marmion Way and Avenue 50. Immanuel — Figueroa and loth streets. Divine Memorial Mission — 1049 Avenue 33. Knox — 134 W. 30th street. Second — Downey avenue and Daly street. Third — Corner Hill and i6th streets. Welch — 436 Crocker street. Reformed Presbyterian — 430 E. 21st street. Spanish Presbyterian — 1039 Macy street. United Presbyterian Churches. — First — 754 S. Hill street. Second — Santee and Washington streets. Unitarian. — Church of the Unity — 927 S. Flower street. Independent Church of Christ — 734 S. Hope street. Miscellaneous. — Church of the Nazarene — 526 S. Los Angeles street. 170 Dunkards (Tiinkcrs-Gcrman Baptists) Brethren Cluircli — 234 South Hancock. Gospel Tabernacle — 4361^2 S. Spring street. Latter Day Saints (reorganized) — iith and Wall streets. Latter Day Saints (reorganized church) — 516 Temple. New Christian Church (Swcdenborgian) — 515 E. 9th. Peniel Mission (undenominational) — 227 S. Main street. United Brethren Church — Pico and Hope streets. Volunteers of America — 128 E. ist street. Seventh Day Adventist — 141 Carr street. Salvation Army. — Headquarters and Corps No. i — 3275/2 S. Spring street. Corps No. 2 — 103 San Pedro street. Salvation Army Shelter — loi San Pedro street. Missiojis. — Channing Street Mission (German) — 1356 Channing street. Chinese Children's School (Presbyterian) — 766 Juan. Chinese Mission (Baptist) — 608 N. Main street. Chinese Mission (Congregational) — 109^2 Commercial. Chinese Mission (Presbyterian) — 214 Wilmington street. Chinese Mission (Methodist Episcopal) — 208 N. Lo.= Angeles street. Pacific Gospel Union — 323 E. 2d street. San Fernando Street Mission — 1512 San Fernando. Spanish Mission (Presbyterian) — 1039 Macy. Benevolent Organizations. — Associated Charities, rooms 11-12 Court House. California Children's Home Society Receiving Home, 1 105 E. 25th street. Catholic Ladies' Aid Society, Cathedral Hall. Christian Hospital Association of Los Angeles, 1022 S. Flower street. Florence Home of Los Angeles fox Girls, 1632 Santee street. 171 Flower Festival Boarding Home, 125 E. Fourth street. French Benevolent Society, 913 Castelar street. German Ladies' Benevolent Association, Mrs. W. T. Grosser, Secretary. Hebrew Benevolent Society, room 109 Hellman Bldg. Hollenbeck Home for Aged People, Boyle avenue, be- tween Fifth and Sixth streets. Home of the Guardian Angel for Little Children, 333 S. Figueroa street. Home of Peace Society, Mrs. V. Katz, Secretary. Industrial Home and School for Spanish Girls, 182 Hewitt street. Italian Mutual Benevolent Association, ']'^(i Buena Vista street. King's Daughters Day Nursery, Florence A. Tatham, Sec- retary. Ladies' Auxiliary, Y. M. C. A., Y. M. C. A. Bldg. Lark Ellen Home for News and Working Boys, 808 San Pedro street. Los Angeles Mercy Home for Old Women and Working Girls, Z2(i Boyd street. Los Angeles Orphan Asylum, Boyle and Stephenson avenues. Los Angeles Orphans' Home Society, 809 Yale street. Ransome Home, 134 E. First street. Salvation Army Headquarters, 327 S. Spring street. Salvation Army Rescue Home, 330 Griffith avenue. W. C. T. U., Temperance Temple. Y. M. C. A., 209 S. Broadway. Y. M. C. A., 2iii/i W. Second. Hotels. — Los Angeles is better provided with hotels than any other city of its size in the world. Centrally located are a dozen well-known hotels, where a large trancient tourist as well as commercial traveling clientage is handled. 172 Skirting tlic business district on tlic l)ranch numeral streets and along Hill street are many family hotels. In the out- lying residential districts at intervals of every five or six blocks arc fine-appointed establishments with handsome landscape surroundings. Abbey, 232 S. Hill street. Angelus, Fourth and Spring streets. Abbotsford Inn, 801 S. Hope street. Aldine, 326 S. Hill street. Arcade Depot Hotel, 900 E. Fifth street. Beacon, The, 720 Beacon street. Burlington Hotel, 235 E. Second street. Baltimore, 427 W. Seventh street. Bellevue Terrace, 545 S. Figueroa street. Broadway, 429 Broadway. Brunswick, 602 S. Hill street. Buckley, 734 S. Hill street. California, 331 W. Second street. Catalina, 439 S. Broadway. Clarendon, 406 S. Hill street. Colonade, 328 S. Hill street. Columbia, 612 S. Broadway. Corona, 227 W. Seventh street. Fremont, cor. Fourth and Olive streets. Grand Central, 326 N. Main street. Gray Gables, cor. Seventh and Hill streets. Gray Hotel, 274 S. j\Iain street. Hollenbeck Hotel, S. W. cor. Spring and Second streets. • Hollingsworth, 506 S. Hill street. Johnson, 123 E. Fourth street. Lillie, 534 S. Hill street. Lincoln, 207 S. Hill street. Lakeview, N. E. cor W. Sixth and Sherman streets. Livingston, 635 S. Hill street. 173 Mt. Pleasant, cor E. First and Boyle avenues. Nadeau, First and Spring streets. Natick House, io8 W. First street. National, 430 N, Main street. Palms, 615 S. Broadway. Rosslyn, Main street, opposite Postoffice. Raniona, 305 S. Spring street. St. Elmo, 343 N. Main street. St. Charles Hotel, 314 N. Main street. Van Nuys, Main, N. W. cor. Fourth street. Vera, 405^ S. Broadway. United States, 168 N. Main street. Van Nuys, Broadway, 416-420 S. Broadway. Westlake Hotel, 720 Westlake avenue. Westminster, cor. Fourth and S. Main streets. Rooming and Boarding Houses. — There are a vast num- ber of these in Los Angeles, but as they are of so varied and changing a character a full list cannot be published. A directory may be consulted in any drug store, or the ad- vertisements seen in the local daily newspapers. Foreign Consuls. — The consuls located in Los Angeles are as follows : Belgium, V. Ponet, 102 N. Main. Chili, C. S. Walton, 2201/2 S. Spring. Ecuador, T. L. Duque, corner N. Main and Spring. France, Auguste Fusenot, 221 S. Broadway. Great Britain, C. White Mortimer, 71 Temple Bldg. Central America, T. L. Duque, corner N. Main and Spring. Mexico, G. Andrade, 218 N. Main. United States Government Officials. — The following is the list of federal officials in Los Angeles : U. S. Circuit Court — Tajo Building, First and Broadway, Judge E. M. Ross. 174 U. S. District Court — Tajo Building, First and Broadway, Judge Olin Wellborn. U. S. Attorney — L. II. Valentine, E.sq. U. S. Commissioners and Clerks — Wm. II. Van Dyke, E. II. Owen. Crier and Interpreter — Ralph J. Dominguez. Deputies — Wm. Rector, Henry Duing, Ed. Wailing. U. S. Marshal — H. Z. Osborne. Geo. McCulIough, Deputy ; H. T. Christian, Office Deputy. U. S. Secret Service — John F. Cronin, 213 Lankershim Building. U. S. Weather Bureau — G. E. Franklin, Trust Building, Second and Spring. U. S. Collector— J. C. Cline, 222^^ N. Main. U. S. Custom House — 222J/2 N. Main. U. S. Land Office— Arthur W. Kinney and A. J. Crook- shank, Potomac Building. U. S. Internal Revenue — Bullard Block. Forest Superintendent — S. P. Allen, Potomac Building. U. S. Engineer Capt. Jadwin, Bradbury Building. U. S. Marine Hospital — Wilcox Building. Transportation Facilities. — Three railroads afford trans- portation for Los Angeles. The branches and divisions, if counted separately, would multiply the number by seven. No less than twenty railroad lines, steam and electric, enter the city of Los Angeles. Here is a city of 140,000 to 150,000 inhabitants, set in the heart of a valley only about 200 miles long in its greatest, extent, from San Diego to Santa Barbara, and not exceed seventy-five miles wide at its widest point. Of the steam lines, the Sunset route via New Orleans, the Santa Fe route via Kansas City, and the Southern Pacific via Ogden are all transcontinental systems. The Southern Pacific has two branches, one via the San Joaquin 175 Valley, the other up the coast, via Santa Barbara. This system stretches north to Portland, Ore., to Puget Sound, British Columbia, and from these points east by three great lines. Besides these various transcontinental lines, there is the San Pedro, Los Angeles and Salt Lake road. The Salt Lake route has made material progress during the year just closed. It is now completed to Riverside and San Bernardino. It is eventually to go on to Salt Lake City. The Union Pacific extension, from Salt Lake southwesterly to the city, has made but little progress during the year. Its owners still insist that it is to be built to Los Angeles closely paralleling Senator Clark's Salt Lake route road. The steam lines which enter Los Angeles handle a total of eighty passenger trains a day. More than thirty of these are continental trains. About two hundred and twenty-five trains come and go daily on steam lines. This includes freight and passenger, local and transcontinental trains. The pay rolls of these companies foot up over $400,000 per month. For regular pay rolls and construction crews the monthly disbursements in and about this city are not far from $600,000. The railroad men of all classes, who find employment regularly or otherwise, in and around Los Angeles, would number close to 4,000. With their families, they would count probably 6,000 souls. The reasons for all this activity in railroading in Los Angeles and Southern California are these: It is estimated that climatic and other considerations draw here not less than 75,000 people a year. Most of these return to their eastern homes after a longer or shorter stay; the products of Southern California soil sent East amount to about 30,000 carloads a year; much of the food consumed here, and the clothing, most of the household goods and imple- 176 ments and machinery, wagons and other vehicles, are brought in from the East. Southern Pacific. — G. A. Parkyns, Asst. Gen. Freight and Passenger Agent. General offices, 261 South Spring street. Santa Fe. — A. G. Wells, Gen. Manager; John J. Byrne, Gen. Passenger Agent. General offices. Conservative Life Insurance Building, Third and Hill streets. San Pedro, Los Angeles and Salt Lake. — J. Ross Clark, Second Vice-President; office 325 Douglas Building. R. E. Wells, Gen. Manager; First and Myers streets. Railroad Directory. — General agents of foreign lines : California Eastern : R. S. Scibert, 212 Currier Bldg., Tel. John 1,701. Chicago and Alton : G. M. Page, 109 Stimson Bldg., Tel. Main 714. Chicago, Burlin,gton and Quincy ; W. W. Elliott, 222 S. Spring street, Tel. Main 1,003. Chicago, Milwaukee and St. Paul; P. E. Fisk, in Stim- son Bldg., Tel. Main 1,024. Chicago and Northwestern ; W. D. Campbell, 247 S. Spring street, Tel. ATain 628. Chicago, Rock Island and Pacific; F. A. Miller, 237 S. Spring street, Tel. Main 960. Erie Railroad ; B. S. Harkness, 126 Stimson Bldg. Gila Valley, Globe and Northern ; Wm. Garland, 313 Stimson Bldg., Tel. IMain 1,438. Grand Trunk; W. H. Bullen, 302 Wilcox Bldg., Tel. Main 123. Illinois Central ; C. Haydock, 238 S. Spring street. Tel. Main 1,616. Judson Alton Excursions; Geo. W. Page, 109 Stimson Bid- New York Central ; F. L. Byron, 324 Broadway, Tel. Main 1,339. 177 Northern Pacific; C. E. Johnson, 125 W. Third street, Tel. John 2,491. Pennsylvania Lines ; G. B. Tedrick, P, O. Box, 371. Piedmont Air Line (Southern Ry.) ; A. M. Barum, Pacific Coast Passenger Agent, 207 W. Third street. Raymond & Whitcomb's Excursion Agency; 324 S.Broad- way, Tel. Main 1,339. Santa Fe and Arizona Southern ; E. J. Carter, 302 Wil- cox Bldg. St. Louis and San Francisco; J. F. Edwards, 208 Stim- son Bldg. Texas and Pacific; T. J. Fitzgerald, 230 S. Spring street, Tel. Main 392. Thos. Cook & Sons; Hugh B. Rice, 230 S. Spring street, Tel. Main 392. Union Pacific; G. F. Herr, 250 S. Spring street, Tel. Main 598. Wabash ; Ross C. Cline, Stimson Bldg. Railroads Depots. — Arcade Depot — (S. P.) Fifth street and Central avenue. Pasadena — (Electric), 316 W. Fourth street and 6th and Main. Redondo Ry. Depot. — Jefferson street and Grand avenue. River Station. — (S. P.), 1501 San Fernando street. Salt Lake Route Depot — First and Meyers streets. San Gabriel and Alhambra (Electric), Sixth and Main. San Pedro — (Electric), runs up Third street. Long Beach — (Electric), Sixth and Main. Monrovia and Baldwin's Ranch — (Electric), Sixth and Main. Santa Fe (La Grande) Depot — Santa Fe Avenue, be- tween First and Second streets. Santa Monica — (Electric), 316 W. Fourth street. 178 University Station — (S. P.), Vermont Avenue and Santa Monica avenue. Whittier — (Electric) Sixth and Main streets. Street Railways. — Los Angeles has a street railway sys- tem equal, if not superior, to that of any first-class city in the country. In the city and suburban lines, there arc about 300 miles of electric railway, and to operate the sys- tem an army of men is required. Most of the cars are ca- pable of high speed and are models of comfort and conven- ience. During the year much work has been done in building new electric lines to many points. The Huntington-Hell- man syndicate has been very active. The Pasadena cut-off has been completed, shortening the distance between that city and Los Angeles. A branch from this has been con- structed to Alhambra, and on to San Gabriel. This line has also been extended south of Pasadena to Monrovia, a distance of sixteen miles from Los Angeles. The Los Angeles and Pacific road has built via The Palms and Ocean Park to Santa Monica, making its line a belt of sixteen miles or more on each lap. The Traction Gampany has built a new line to San Pedro, nearly twenty miles long, paralleling the new Long Beach line of the Huntington system. In all, close to 100 miles of new electric road have been built during the year. The Redondo road has constructed an electric line from Redondo to Los Angeles, and converted their old steam road to a combination steam and electric, making a loop of about sixteen miles on each side. Inside the city the two companies operating street cars have made great improvements. The Los Angeles Rail- road Co. has built several important short branches, and has reconstructed about ten miles of ito old lines, practically rebuilding all this mileage; and has built over five miles of 179 new track, single. This company has now in operation, in round numbers, in the city lOO miles of single track. A great many new cars have been added, and the company is now operating not less than 300 cars a day. This company has just converted nearly three miles of the old Temple street cable road into a thoroughly modern electric road. The company also contemplates much new building during the year 1904. Its sister company, the Pacific Electric, is operating over 100 miles of single track at present. At one point in Los Angeles, the corner of Spring and First streets, upward of .3,200 cars pass in a day. The Pacific electric shops built during the year cover nearly six acres of ground, and constitute one of the finest modern systems of shops in the countr}'. The company is now engaged in the erection of a great central depot in the heart of the city, where all its interurban lines will converge. It will be a great structure, twelve stories high. It will not be completed in less than a year. The Traction people are also putting up large shops and a new power-house, to meet the demands of their growing system. The electric roads centering in Los Angeles handle near- ly 600 cars a day. The men regularly employed number about 2,000. The pay of all men and officers amounts to more than $100,000 per month. The construction crews amount to nearly 1,000 men, and the disbursements are nearly $50,000 per month. General offices of the Los Angeles Railway Co., corner Sixth and S. Main streets. J. A. Muir, general manager. Pacific Electric Co., Sixth and S. INIain streets. Epes Randolph, manager. Los Angeles-Pacific Electric, 316 W. Fourth street. E. P. Clark, manager. i8o Lf)S Angeles 'IVaction Co., Georgia and Girard streets. W. S. Hook, manager. Los Angeles-Rcdondo Electric Co., 217 W. Second street. LOS ANGEI.ES RAILWAY CO. Southern Pacific Depot Line connects with all trains at Arcade Station, and runs via Fifth, Fourth, Main and Spring streets to the Plaza, and all the leading hotels First car from the Depot at 5 :45 a. m. ; last car from thf Depot at 12:20. Going from the Depot transfer south at Fifth and San Pedro streets; south at Fourth and 'Main streets ; south on Spring and Broadway at Fourth and Spring streets ; west at Second and Spring streets ; to Belt Line west, at First and Spring streets; to Boyle Heights east ; to all north-bound cars at Temple Block. South bound at Temple Block to south-bound cars on Main street ; at First and Spring streets to cars east and west bound ; at Second and Spring streets to east and west-bound cars; at Fourth and Spring streets to south-bound cars on Spring street; at Fifth and Central avenue south-bound. University Line runs through the business section on Spring street from University station of the Southern Pa- cific and Agricultural Park through to East Los Angeles, to Daly St. Cars run every four and a half minutes. First car from each end 6 a. m. ; last car from Daly street, 12:52; from Agricultural Pa>k. t o'clock; from First and Spring, at 12:30. Transfer north-bound at Washington and Estrel- la avenue west and north ; at Pico and Flower streets west at tenth and Grand avenue north and south ; at Ninth and Main streets to E. Ninth street ; at the Postoffice "stop- overs" ; at Fifth and Spring streets to Maple avenue ; at Fourth and Spring streets to Southern Pacific Depot ; at Second and Spring streets to Santa Fe Depot and Westlakc Ccirs ; at First and Spring streets to west-bound Belt Line i8i cars and east-bound Boyle Heights cars; at Temple Block lo all north-bound cars. South-bound at the Plaza to Belt Line cars east-bound; at Temple Block to south-bound cars on Main street; at First and Spring streets to east and west-bound First street cars; at Second and Spring streets to Santa Fe Depot, Vernon and Westlake cars ; at Fourth and Spring streets to Southern Pacific Depot ; at Fifth and Spring streets to Washington street and Maple avenue; at Ninth and Spring streets to W. Ninth and E. Ninth street; at Tenth and Grand avenue south ; at Washington and Es- trella west; at Pico and Flower streets west. Westlake Park car starts from Second and Spring streets via Second, Olive, First and Alvarado, to Westlake Park. Cars run every seven minutes. First car from Second and Spring streets 5 :40 a. m., ; first car from Westlake, 6 a. m. ; last car from Second and Spring streets 12:30; last car from the Park, 12:48. Issue transfers at Second and Broadway to south and north-bound cars ; at Second and Spring streets to all cars north, south or east-bound ; at Seventh and Alva- rado streets to west-bound cars. Pico Heights Line cars operate from Temple Block via Main, First, Broadway, Tenth, Flower and Pico to Coun- try Club and golf grounds. Cars every five minutes. First car from Second and Spring streets 5 :30 a. m. ; first car from Pico Heights terminus 6 a. m. ; last car from Temple Block 12:30; last car from Pico terminus i o'clock. Trans- fer east bound at Pico and Figueroa streets north and south ; at Pico and Flower streets south ; at Tenth and Grand avenue north and south ; at Ninth and Broadway to E. Ninth street ; at Fifth and Broadway to Maple avenue ; at Fourth and Broadway to Southern Pacific Depot; at Second and Broadway to Westlake; at First and Broadway to Belt Line ; at First and Spring streets to east-bound Boyle Heights cars ; at Temple Block to all north-bound 1 82 cars. South bound at Second and Broadway to Wcstlake cars west; at Fifth and Broadway to Washington street; at Sevcntli and Broadway to W. Seventh street; at Tenth and Grand avenue south ; at Pico and Florence streets south ; at Pico and Figueroa streets south. Boyie Heights and Seventh Street Line through busi- ness section via First, Broadway and Seventh to Rampart street and Westlake Park on the west, and Evergreen Cemetery on the east. Cars every five minutes. First car from each terminus 6 a.m.; last car from center of the city 12:30; last car from each terminus 12:50. Transfer east bound at Seventh and Alvarado streets, north ; at seventh and Figueroa streets north and south ; at Seventh and Grand avenue south ; at Fifth and Broadway to Maple avenue; at Fourth and Broadway to Southern Pacific Depot; at Second and Broadway to Westlake; at First and Broadway to Belt Line; at First and Spring streets to north-bound cars ; at First and Main streets to south- bound cars; at First and Santa Fe avenue to E. Ninth street cars ; at First and Cummings streets to Cummings street. Issue west-bound at Cummings street south ; at First and Santa Fe avenue south to E. Ninth street; at First and Main streets south ; at First and Spring streets to west-bound Belt Line cars, to all north and south-bound cars on Spring street ; at Second and Broadway to West- lake; at Fifth and Broadway to Washington street west; at Seventh and Broadway to Pico Heights south-bound ; at Seventh and Grand avenue south ; at Seventh and Figueroa streets south. Cummings Street Line. — Cars on this line connect at First and Cummings streets with the Boyle Heights and Seventh street line and run direct to Hollenbeck Park, HoIIenbeck Home and Los Angeles Orphan Asylum. First i83 car 6 a. m. ; last car 12:30. Transfer cast and west at First and Cummings streets. IVest Ninth Street Line cars operate from Temple Block via Main, First, Spring and Ninth streets to Grand View avenue. Cars every five minutes. First car from Second and Spring streets 5 :45 a. m. ; first car froih Grand View avenue 6 a. m. ; last car from Temple Block at 12:30; last car from Grand View avenue 12:52. Trans- fer east-bound at Ninth and Figueroa streets north and south; at Ninth and Grand avenue south; at Ninth and Spring streets south to Main street cars (only) and E. Ninth street; at the Postoffice "stop-overs;" at Fifth and Spring streets to Maple avenue; at Fourth and Spring streets to Southern Pacific Depot; at Second and Spring streets to Santa Fe Depot and Westlake; at First and Spring streets to east-bound Boyle Heights and Belt Line cars west-bound ; at Temple Block to all north-bound cars. South-bound at Second and Spring streets to east and west- bound cars on Second street; at Fourth and Spring streets to Southern Pacific Depot; at Fifth and Spring streets to Maple avenue and Washington street; at Ninth and Spring streets to E. Ninth St. ; at Ninth and Grand avenue south; at Ninth and Figueroa streets south. Grand and Dozmiey Avenue Line. — This trunk line passes through the main arteries of the city from Jeffer- son street and Grand avenue via Grand avenue, Seventh, Broadway, First, Spring, Main, San Fernando streets, Downey avenue and Pritchard street to Eastlake Park. Cars every five minutes. First car from each terminus 6 a.m.; last car from Jefferson street 12:56; last car from Eastlake Park at 12 :54. Last car from First and Spring street at 12 :30. Transfer north-bound at Tenth and Grand avenue to west-bound cars at Ninth and Grand avenue west; at Seventh and Grand avenue west; at Fifth and i84 Hroadvvay to Maple avenue; at Fourth and Broadway to Southern Pacific Depot ; at Second and Broadway to Westlake ; at First and Broadway to west-bound Belt Line ; at First and Spring streets to east-bound Boyle Heights; at Temple Block to all north-bound cars. South- bound at the Plaza to Belt Line east-bound; at Temple Block to south-bound cars on Main street; at First and Spring streets to west-bound Belt Line cars, all south- bound cars on Spring street, east-bound Boyle Heights cars ; at Second and Broadway to west-bound Westlake cars; at Fifth and Broadway to west-bound Washington street cars ; at Seventh and Broadway to Pico Heights south ; at Seventh and Grand avenue to W. Seventh street cars ; at Tenth and Grand avenue to west-bound cars. Washington Street Line operates from the Santa Fe (La Grande) Station via Third, Second, Spring, Fifth, Olive, Sixth, Figueroa and Washington streets to Rosedale Ceme- tery and Western avenue. Cars every seven minutes. First car from Santa Fe Depot 6 a. m. ; first car from Western avenue 6 a. m. ; last car from Santa Fe Depot 7:50 p.m.; last car from Second and Spring streets 12:30; last car from Western avenue I o'clock. Transfer east- bound at Washington and Estrella to south and north- bound University cars ; at Pico and Figueroa streets west ; at Ninth and Figueroa streets east and west; at Seventh and Figueroa streets east and west; at Fifth and Broad- way north ; at Fifth and Spring streets to Maple avenue ; at Fourth and Spring streets to Southern Pacific Depot; at Second and Spring streets west to Westlake cars, and to all north-bound cars; at Santa Fe Depot to E. Ninth and Mateo street cars south. West-bound at Second and Central avenue south; at Second and Main streets south and north ; at Second and Spring streets north-bounfl cars and Westlake; at Fourth and Spring streets to Southern i85 Pacific Depot; at Fifth and Spring streets to south-bound cars on Spring street and to Maple avenue cars; at Fifth and Broadway to south-bound cars on Broadway; at Seventh and Figueroa streets west; at Ninth and Figueroa streets west; at Pico and Figueroa streets west; at Wash- ington and Estrella south. Main Street Line cars leave Temple Block every five minutes via Main and Jefferson and Wesley avenue to Agricultural Park, passing Westminster and Van Nuys hotels and chutes. First car from each terminus 6 a. m. ; last car from Temple Block 12:30; last car from Agricul- tural Park 12 :58. Transfer north-bound at Ninth street to W. and E. Ninth street; at Eighth and Main streets Postoffice "stop-overs" (good only on Main street cars) ; at Fifth and Main streets east to Blue Line cars (only) ; at Fourth and Main streets east to Southern Pacific Depot; at Second and Main streets east to Santa Fe Depot; at First and Main streets east to Boyle Heights cars, west to Boyle Heights and Pico Heights cars ; at Temple Block to all north-bound cars. South-bound at First and Main streets to east-bound Boyle Heights cars ; at Second and Main streets to east-bound Vernon and Washington street cars; at Ninth street to E. Ninth street. Maple Avenue and Eastlake Park Line cars leave Thir- ty-second street and Maple avenue via Maple to Fifth, Spring, Temple Block and N. Main to Eastlake Park. First car from each terminus 6 a. m. ; last car from center of the city 12:30; last car from Eastlake Park 12:50; last car at Thirty-second street 12:50. Transfer north-bound at Ninth and Maple avenue east and west ; at Fifth street to east-bound Blue Line cars (only) ; at Fifth and Spring streets to west-bound Washington street cars and south- bound cars on Spring street ; good at Fifth and Broadway on south-bound cars; at Fourth and Spring streets to i86 Southern Pacific Depot; at Second and Spring streets to Santa Fe Depot and Westlake; at First and Spring streets to east-bound Boyle Heights and west-bound Belt Line cars; at Temple Block to all north-bound cars. South- bound at Main and Macy streets to east-bound Belt Line cars ; at Temple Block to south-bound cars on Main street ; at First and Spring streets to all east and west-bound cars on First street; at Second and Spring streets to east and west-bound cars on Second street; at Fourth and Spring streets to Southern Pacific Depot; at Fifth and Spring streets to west-bound Washington street cars and south- bound cars on Spring street; at Ninth and Maple avenue to E. Ninth street cars. Vernon Cars leave Second and Spring streets every seven minutes via Second street and Central avenue to Vernon, passing Southern Pacific station (Arcade), offices, power house and shops of the Los Angeles Railway Company. First car from each terminus 6 a. m. ; last car from Second and Spring streets 12:30; last car from Vernon terminus i o'clock. Transfer north bound at Ninth street to E. Ninth street cars; at Fifth street to Southern Pacific Depot cars; at Second and Central avenue to east-bound Washington street and east-bound Boyle Heights cars ; at Second and Main streets to north-bound cars ; at Second and Spring streets to north-bound cars and Westlake cars. South-bound transfer at Ninth street to E. Ninth street cars. San Pedro Street Line cars leave Temple Block every seven minutes via Main, Fifth and San Pedro to Thirtieth street. First car from each terminus 6 a. m. ; last car from Temple Block 12:30; last car from Thirtieth street 12:50. Transfer north bound at Ninth street to E. Ninth street cars; at Fifth and San Pedro streets to east bound cars to Main to east bound Washington street cars; at First and 187 Main street to east bound Boyle Heights and west bound Boj'le Heights and Pico Heights cars; at Temple Block to all north bound cars. South bound at First and Main streets to east bound Boyle Heights cars; at Second and Main streets to east bound cars ; at Ninth and San Pedro streets to E. Ninth street cars. East Ninth and Mateo cars leave Ninth and Main via Mateo to First and Santa Fe avenue. First car leaves Ninth and Main streets and First and Santa Fe avenue at 6 a. m. ; last cars from same points connect with last cars from up town. Transfer south bound at Ninth and Mateo streets to south bound Mateo street car; at Ninth and Tennessee streets to broad gauge cars ; at Ninth and Central avenue to Vernon cars; at San Pedro street to San Pedro street cars; at Maple avenue to Maple avenue cars ; at Ninth and Main streets to all cars north, south and west bound. From Ninth and Main streets issue transfers to Maple avenue, San Pedro street and Vernon cars; at Ninth and Tennessee streets to east bound cars; at Ninth and Mateo streets to Mateo street cars ; at Third and Santa Fe avenue to Washington street cars ; at First and Santa Fe avenue to Boyle Heights cars east and west bound. PACIFIC ELECTRIC RAILWAY COMPANY. Blue Line. — First car leaves Arcade depot at 5 :50 a. m. via Fifth and Main street to Temple Block; last car leaves Temple and Main streets I2 -.2$ a. m. Transfers at Fifth and San Pedro going south on San Pedro street line ; Fifth and Maple south on Maple street line ; Fifth and Main south on Main street line ; First and Main for Boyle Heights. Belt Line. — First car leaves at 6 a. m. ; from Evergreen Cemetery to W. Temple and Sugg street via Brooklyn avenue, Bridge, Macy, Main, First and Broadway, Cali- fornia, Boston, Figucroa, Alpine, Sisters' Hospital, Bellc- vuc avenue. Echo Park and W. Temple to terminus. First car leaves Sugg and Temple streets at 6 a. m. via above route; last car leaves in either direction from First and Broadway at 12:18 a. m. Transfers issued to Los Angeles Railway as follows : First and Broadway to all cars going south on Broadway; First and Spring from east bound cars to Boyle Heights; First and Spring to all south bound cars ; Temple Block on all south bound Main street cars ; at Plaza to University, Grand and Downey and Maple avenue and Eastlake Park north bound. Trans- fers issued to Pasadena and Alhambra line north bound to city limits at Main and Macy streets, also to Alhambra cars at Gallardo and Macy streets. Distance from Ever- green to Sugg street terminus, 6.25 miles. Fare, 5 cents. This route goes through the largest oil district in the city. General offices, Pacific Electric Co., corner Sixth and Main streets. J. B. Rowray, superintendent, ofiice, old Temple street power house, Edgeware road and Temple street. Temple Street Line from Temple and Spring to W. Temple street terminus. Now under construction. TR.VCTION COMPANY. Main Line (Yellow Cars). — Leave Le Grande Station via Santa Fe avenue. Third, Hill, Eighth, Figueroa, Eleventh, Georgia, Sixteenth, Bush, Hoover, Twenty-fourth and Vermont avenue to University station. First car from University station 5 -.$2 a. m. ; last car leaves University station 11:45 P- ™- ! first car leaves Santa Fe station 6 a. m. ; last car leaves Santa Fe Station 12 :22 a. m. ; last car leaves Third and Spring streets for University 12:30 a. m. Crosses the city east and west. Westlake Line (White Cars). — Leave Arcade depot via Central avenue. Third and Hill, Eighth, Lake, Seventh (passing Westlake Park), Hoover, Wilshire Boulevard and Commonwealth avenue to First. First car from Seventh and Hoover streets 6 :o6 a. m. ; first car from First and Virgil streets 6 -.07 a. m. ; first car from Arcade depot 6:06 a. m. ; last car from First and Virgil streets 11:52 p. m. ; last car from Arcade depot 10 First street 12 :22 a. m. ; last car leaves Third and Spring streets for First and Virgil 12:30 a. m. Boyle Heights Line (Green Cars). — Leave Evergreen Cemetery via Fourth, Hollenbeck Park, Third, Hill, Six- teenth, Bush, Hoover, Twenty-fourth, Normandie and W. Adams. First car Evergreen Cemetery to W. Adams street 6 a. m. ; first car W. Adams to Boyle Heights 6 -.oy a. m. ; last car Evergreen Cemetery to W. Adams street 12:08 a. m. ; last car W. Adams street to Boyle Heights 11:18 p. m. ; last car from Third and Spring streets for Boyle Heights 11 :^y p. m. ; last car from Third and Spring streets to W. Adams 12 :30 a. m. San Pedro Line connects with yellow cars at University Station. Cars pass Rosecrans, Gardena, Moneta and Avery en route to San Pedro. LAST AND FIRST CARS. The following last and first cars leave at time given below. On all other lines it will be found under its par- ticular head : Last car for Pasadena from Fourth and Spring streets at 12:15 a. m. ; first car 6 a. m. Last car for San Gabriel and Alhambra from Fourth and Spring streets 11 :30 p. m. ; first car 6:30 a. m. Last car for Mt. Lowe from Fourtli and Spring streets at 3 :30 p. m. ; first car 8 a. m. 190 Last car for Long Beach from Ninth and Main 11:45 p. m. ; first car 6 a. m. Last car from Long Beach, 12 midnight. Last car for Hollywood from 326 W. Fourth street, 12:45 3- iTi- ; first car 6:45 a. m. Last car for Colegrove from 326 W. Fourth street, 12:15 a. m. ; first car 6:15 a. m. Last car for Santa Monica from 326 W. Fourth street 11:35 P- ™-; first car 6:35 a. m. Last car for Redondo from Second and Spring streets II :30 p. m. ; first car 8 :30 a. m. Cemeteries. — Los Angeles has several cemeteries. The old Odd Fellows' Cemetery, situated near the High School building on California street, and the Old Calvary (Catho- lic) Cemetery on Buena Vista street, have long since been condemned as places of burial, and are fast going to ruin and decay. Those which are at present used are the Jewish, located on Fernando street ; Evergreen, on First street, in Boyle Heights ; Rosedale, on Washington street, in the suburb of Rosedale, and the Odd Fellows and New Cal- vary, situated on the road which leads to Downey and Whit- tier. Of these. Evergreen and Rosedale are most beautiful as cemeteries, having grass plots, shrubs and trees and nice walks and drives ; the two others have not been laid out nearly so long and are not as yet in such an admirable state as regards the condition of the grounds and surround- ings. Evergreen may be reached either by the Traction or Boyle Heights cars, and Rosedale by the Washington and Santa Monica street cars. Oil Wells. — There is a vast difference between the oil produced in California and that of the Eastern States. Cal- ifornia oil, as a rule, is very heavy, has an asphalt base. and is almost exclusively for fuel ; while the eastern oil is light, has a paraffine base, and is used principally as an illuminant, although it may be used for many and various purposes. For years the business men, manufacturers and investors have been puzzling over the problem of the reduction of the price of fuel in Los Angeles, that being the only efficient drawback to the establishment of foundries, factories and manufacturing establishments generally on a large scale throughout the city. It would now appear that the dis- covery and development of petroleum in quantities in Los Angeles county has well-nigh proved its solution. A total of 1,500 wells have been drilled in the city of Los Ange- les, and the total estimated output for the State for 1900 is 4,500,000 barrels, nearly one-third of it being produced in Los Angeles county. The city oil fields are situated within a radius of two miles from its center, and are divided by breaks into what are termed the east, central, and west fields. The depth of the wells varies from 250 to 1,400 feet, and the cost is increased with the depth. Some wells cost only about $800 or $1,000, while others show an expenditure of from $4,500 to $5,000. It is safe to say that a fair average cost of a first-class well in the city would not be far from $2,500. The yield is something at which it is extremely difficult to arrive with any degree of certainty. A well may start in with fifty or sixty barrels a day, but as soon as the "head" is "pumped off" fall to twenty or twenty-five bar- rels, and may finally settle down to a ten or fifteen-barrel well, which is considered very good. The petroleum industry of Los Angeles has been and probably will continue to be of the greatest importance. It has brought nearly six millions of dollars into the circula- tion of the city from the sale of oil alone, to say nothing of the business which has been stimulated and produced solely through its influence. More than 300 men are direct- 1 92 ly employed at an average daily wage of $3.00, and the number of persons who are indirectly aflfectcd and who procure employment in Los Angeles through the influence of the petroleum industry, in the railway business, factories foundries, etc., is certainly very large, as there is a known monthly consumption of oil in the city of Los Angeles of nearly 100,000 barrels. TJie Southern California Academy of Sciences was or- ganized in 1891 and numbers at the present time (1903) about 250 members. On the first Monday evenings of each month general meetings are held, free to the public, at which popular lectures on scientific subjects are given, as free from technical treatment as the nature of the subjects will per- mit. The academy has four working sections. Astronomical, Geological, Biographical, and Botanical, the members of which also meet once a month on stated evenings and read papers which are the outcome of scientific research. Syn- opses of the lectures and papers read at the various meet- ings are published in the Monthly Bulletin. The meetings are held at the Women's Club House on Figueroa street, Los Angeles. Prof. B. R. Baumgardt, 116 North Broadway, has been the secretary since 1893. A City of Beautiful Homes. — The chief attraction of Los Angeles to new arrivals, lies in its beautiful homes. The rare beauty of the grounds surrounding the attractive homes of Los Angeles, Pasadena and other Los Angeles county cities, is a constant theme of admiration on the part of Eastern visitors. Other cities can show grander business blocks, but when it comes to gardens, Los Angeles is facile j>rinceps. The mildness of the climate permits the most delicate plants and trees to flourish in the open air all through the winter. At Christmas may be seen hedges, of calla lilies, geranium bushes ten feet and more in height, and heliotrope covering the side of a house, while the jas- 193 amine, tuberose and orange make the air hea\^ with their delicious perfume. Giant bananas wave their graceful leaves in the gentle breeze, and often ripen their fruit ; the fan and date palm grow to mammoth proportions, and roses of a thousand varieties run riot. A majority of the residences stand in spacious grounds, a lot of 50x150 feet long being the smallest occupied by a house of an}' pretension, even- within a stone's throw of the business streets. Many have from one to five acres of ground, all in a high state of cul- tivation, with well kept, verdant lawns, upon which the fig, orange and palm cast a grate'ful shade. Along the sides of the streets shade trees are also the rule, the favorite varieties being the graceful pepper which grows to a great size, the eucalyptus, and the grevilla. The most universal material for residences in Southern California is wood — pine and redwood, the latter being used altogether for outside and largely for inside finish. This material, while amply sufficient for the climate, lends itself to graceful decoration undreamed of by those who have been accustomed to houses of brick or stone. 194 A great variety of arcliitccture is lOniul among tlie resi- dences of Los Angeles. 'Ilic picturesque and comfortable early Mission style of architecture, which should have been more extensively adopted long ago by the American sett- lers, is at length coming into vogue. Some of the more pre- tentious of these residences, in the Mission style of archi- tecture, have spacious tiled court-yards, covered with glass, in which fountains plash, flowers bloom and birds warble. It costs much less to build in Southern California now than it did in the boom days. Again, a $10,000 residence here is as good as a $20,000 residence in the East. One of the most attractive features about a home in this season is the wonderful rapidity with which vegetation of all kinds grows, so that instead of having to wait years for a new residence to assume a settled and homelike appear- ance, the owner only has to wait a few months until his house is surrounded with thrifty plants and climbing vines, while even some trees, as in the case of the eucalpytus, grow up to a responsible size from the seed within a j'ear, and can be planted around the lot while less rapidly grow- ing trees are attaining size, thus obviating the bare, hard appearance which attaches to new residences in less fa- vored climates, however beautiful, architecturally, the buildings may be. The population of Los Angeles is cosmopolitan. During the past ten years it has received accessions to its population from every State in the Union, and from almost every countiy in the world. For instance, a statement published in the Los Angeles Times showed that, five years ago, of the 53,413 voters on the great register of Los Angeles county, only 5,244, or less than 10 per cent., were natives of California. There were 5,048 from New York State, 4,530 from Ohio 4,106 from Illinois, 3,070 from Pennsylva- nia. 2,237 from Iowa, 2,179 from Missouri, ^nd the balance 195 from 43 other States and Territories, including Hawaii. Of I he foreign born voters, numbering 10,430, or nearly 20 per cent, of the total, 2,446 were from Germany, 1,747 from England, 1,581 from British America, 1,576 from Ireland, and the balance from 27 other foreign countries. Papers are published in the German, French, Spanish, Italian, Basque and Chinese languages. There are several thousand Chi- nese in and around Los Angeles, who are engaged in rais- ing vegetables, or employed in housework. They have a residence section of their own, adjoining the old Plaza, in the geographical center of the city. "Seeing Los Angeles." — For the benefit of those whose time and opportunities are limited the Los Angeles Rail- way Company has arranged for two trips a day on special cars, leaving the main office daily at 10 a. m., and 2 p. m. "Seeing Los A)igeles" Cars provide a quick but thorough means of gaining specific knowledge of the city and its surroundings. The route is arranged to avoid tiresome repetition, and is so timed that fatigue does not result. One by one places of interest are pointed out with terse, comprehensive historical data, by guides who are especially skilled and abundantly informed. These cars wind throughout the business thoroughfares, the residence streets and many interesting portions of the Los Angeles of to-day and the Sonoratown of a century and a half ago. From these cars are seen buildings over 120 years old, standing side by side with the newer de- velopment of the present. These trips are conducted upon the highest plane of per- fect transportation, affording a divertisement which appeals to intelligent travelers from ail parts of the world. Object- -ionable features are entirely eliminated from the service. p J- An Ostrich and Her Nest of Eggs. CHAPTER X. THE CAWSTON OSTRICH FARM. South Pasadena, reached on Main Line of Pasadena Electric Cars, fare from Los Angeles lo cents, from Pasa- dena 5 cents. Charge for admission 25 cents. Open all the year round. This is one of the most interesting sights in the world. There are now upwards of two hundred ostriches, large and small, at the farm. Mr. Edwin Cawston, the pro- prietor, thus tells the story of his experiences in bringing the birds to their American home : "Among the many varied investments I have made none gave me such personal inconvenience and anxiety as that of some six thousand dollars in ostriches at their Natal colony in South Africa. Various shipments of ostriches had taken place from Africa to Australia and South America; accounts of these induced me to invest what spare funds I had at the time in this class of biped for export to the United States. for I diagnosed that the climate of California would be quite well adapted for tlie cultivation of the Strnthio Camelus, or true African ostricli. Taking a steamer from London I ar- rived at Durban in the colonj^ of Natal; here I sought the society of some ostrich farmers for the purpose of purchas- ing sufficient ostriches for a shipment to the United States. "After considerable bartering I obtained a herd of fifty- two ostriches and then turned my attention to the posses- sion of a suitable conveyance for these creatures from Dur- ban to Galveston. Texas. I chartered a sailing vessel, the Swedish barque. Krona. some SOO tons burden. This vessel had to be fitted for the reception of the ostriches; I first or- dered conveyed into the hold some hundred tons of sand, upon which the ostriches could stand, perhaps perpetrating upon their imaginations the innocent deception that they still walked the sands of their native desert. Fifty-two pens were erected, twentj^-six on either side of the ship; these were about five feet higli and four feet wide; each pen was carefully padded so that the ostriches in falling over, would not suffer injury: the entire outfit was carefully whitewashed. Between the two rows of pens a large space was left covered with sand, upon which to exercise the ostriches durin.g the voyage. Three hundred pounds of carbolic powder was taken on board for the purpose of purifying the surroundings of the ic>8 liiiils, for 11h:s(! creatures, like all wild animals, are haunted liy certain tribes of insects. ••For provision I had placed in the hold four tons of corn, two thousand cabbages, forty sacks of sweet potatoes, large Mihintiiies of miscellaneous vegetables, such as carrots, beets, turnips, and lastly, a ton of pumpkins, although these last were found subsequently absolutely useless for the purpose intended. The ship chartered, the pens built, the food stored, we were ready for the ostriches; each was blind-folded and duly driven into crates and landed in the hold one by one; soon after we cast anchor and started upon our monotonous voyir^ge across the restless Atlantic. ■'Our fiist disaster occurred after leaving the Cape. So sti-ong 1jI' probably it was so frightened that its heart was affected. With the re- maining forty-four ostriches, therefore. I requisitioned two railway cars and started across the deserts from Galveston. Texas, to Los Angeles, California. •'The present .\merican ostrich population is the descend- ant of those forty-four compulsory emigrants. Soon after iTiy voyage with the birds the Natal government imposed an almost prohibitive duty of five hundred dollars per ostrich upon all birds taken from the land. I have subsequently, however, at groat expense, obtained some young wild os- triches from the Nubian desert, many leagues away from tlie Natal colony and far from the power of its legal enact- ments. These are here now at this Pasadena ostrich farm." lyy ]\Iore errors have probably been written about ostriches than about any other living thing. Since Mr. Cawston has established this ostrich farm he has had an opportunity to study the habits of these strange birds and to find out what is really true concerning them. It has been said that an ostrich lays her eggs in the sand and leaves them there for the sun to hatch, but this is distinctly false. Ostriches pair at the age of four years, when they are worth $500 a pair. At that age they commence laying. The female bird scoops out a hole in the sand in which she lays from twelve to fifteen eggs, after which she sits on them with great regularity, being relieved at night by the male, who takes her place and sits until 9 a. m., and also an hour at noon, when the female goes in search of food. The habit of the bird to scratch a little sand over the eggs to protect them from the fierce heat has probably given rise to this absurd notion. The male is exceedingly ferocious when guarding this precious nest, though peaceable at other times. The pe- culiarity of their mating lies in the singular fact that when an ostrich finally selects a mate, and he is very particular in his choice, he cleaves to her and her alone as long as life lasts — something like seventy years. This connubial constancy should put to shame many marriages made by intelligent men and women. But, stranger still, another marked peculiarity of the ostrich is the lack of parental love shown their offspring. When a young ostrich begins his interesting career, it is without the protective care of the parent bird. He is the most independent young creature in existence, and spends his time careering up and down the grass in the warm sunshine, searching always for something to satisfy his everlasting appetite. Incubators are employed in rearing the young birds, as well as the primitive mode of a nest scooped out of the ground. The young chicks arc fed on green alfalfa. The average increase to the stock each year is between fifteen and twenty ostriches to a pair. Some have been known to produce as many as thirty-seven in a year. From an egg weighing three pounds to a bird weighing three hundred pounds, standing eight feet upon his four toes (the African ostrich has two toes only), and reaching the mature age of seventy years, is a long transition ; yet that is the average size and age of the ostrich. They are about the size of frying chicken when hatched, and grow at the rate of one foot a month. It is a wonderful sight to watch these ungainly baby ostriches tumble awk- ardly out of their shells. They subsist on alfalfa, and later come corn and sugar beets, with oranges by the wagon load for dessert. A full grown bird will eat from nine to thirty-two oranges at a meal, swallowing them whole and as fast as they are tossed to him. What a wanton waste of the delectable fruit ! There are many small boys in colder climes who would not object to changing places with the California ostrich when dessert is brought on. I presume the ostrich took kindly to this American innovation, for desserts must have been rare on the African veldts ! Their sight is very keen, and they are the fastest runners among living things, though their speed is not sixty miles an hour, as has been asserted. Twenty-five miles is their usual rate, though there are instances on record of slightly greater rapidity. -"^^ They do not lie down and put their heads out of sight, thinking that they are thus hiding their whole bodies, as has often been stated, but they often do lie flat on the ground, when it is very difficult to see them at a long distance. Their legs are very strong, and a blow from one of them is able to kill a man. As the bird strikes at a height of three feet from the ground, it is afraid of small dogs, which are out of the reach of its blow. The eggs weigh three pounds each, and are as good in taste as the egg of a hen, to thirty of which one ostrich egg is c(|ual. Tlioiigli tlic Ijird wears one thousand feathers, its leg, neck, thighs and other portions of its body are bare. Perhaps the most interesting of all the sights on the ostrich farm is that of "plucking," or rather removing, the plumes that go to adorn my lady's hat, to fashion those lovely feather boas and fans that are the admiration of the fair sex. The first crop of feathers is secured when the ostrich is eight months old, and from then on every nine months, and the feathers are worth about $30 at each plucking, though prices vary greatly. The process of re- moving the plumes is not at all like the proverbial task of "picking the old gray goose." This novel sight draws tlirongs of visitors, who are always notified through the papers of the important event. The ungainly birds, taller than a man, stronger than a horse and weighing as high as 350 pounds, are not to be coerced into parting with their plumes ; strategy is em- ployed, and the process made as pleasant as possible. The birds, not in the best of humor at this time, are coaxed into a corner, for they can easily strike a blow that will kill a man. Then a hood or bag is drawn over the big bird's cpieer. naked little liead, and the "picking" begins. One man liolds the bird, while another carefully clips away the long, white, black or gray plumes that are so highly prized in the millinery world, taking care to leave an inch or so of quill, which is easily removed after the juices and vitality have been absorbed by the new growth. The small tluffy feathers, ordinarily called "tips." are really plucked. The entire process is without the slightest degree of pain to the ostriches, and those who harbor conscientious scru- ples in regard to wearing the plumage of birds that have been slain to gratify the vanity of the human race, need have no compunctiiMis in adorning themselves with the ostrich plumes. The Desperate Fray of McKinley and Bryan. 204 At tlic Pasadena Ostrich Farm the plumes are made up and sold to visitors on the spot, hence it is not an out-of- the-way hint to suggest that those who desire to purchase ostrich plumes go prepared to do so when they make their visit. Though generally peaceable, there are times when the male birds are exceedingly quarrelsome, and consequently dangerous. Some years ago (during the McKinley-Bryan campaign) the inhabitants of Southern California were horrified to read in their morning paper the startling head- line "McKinley kills Bryan !" Further reading revealed the fact that it was two male birds at the Ostrich Farm that had gotten into a dispute, with the fatal result named. Tt is the whim of the proprietor to name the principal birds after American and English notables, principal of which are McKinley, Washington, King Edward and Lord Roberts. Going for Supplies for the Mines CHAPTER XL THE MOUNT LOWE RAILWAY. The Mount Lowe Railway occupies the enviable position of being pronounced the most wonderful feat of engineer- ing skill in the construction of railroads, and affords the grandest and most thrilling scenery and views obtainable in the world. In making this trip, one ascends from a val- ley of a tropical climate, with its characteristic fruits and flowers, and enters the higher zone where all trace of these are lost, and in their place we find the stalwart pines of northern countries. To accomplish all this in the short space of a few hours and in comfort and luxury, surely is a trip that no one can afford to miss. Starting from Los Angeles we go through the beautiful "San Gabriel Valley" with its many attractive homes and scenes, over the "Ar- royo Seco," where a grand view of Pasadena in the dis- tance is obtained, and still further on are the beautiful Sierra Madre Mountains. Passing by the Ostrich Farm, which contains many full grown birds and chicks, and which is always a resort for tourists, we pass through the beau- tiful city of Pasadena, with its many handsome homes ■AikI"' %^%itn ' V'- J:- 207 and gardens, on to Altadena, where the Mount Lowe car is in waiting, and we are already climbing the foothills. At Rubio Canyon, where we meet the incline car, we have ascended 2,100 feet in our ride from Los Angeles. To stand at the foot of the "incline" and look up to the next part of our trip is a thrilling experience and not soon forgotten. The grades of this incline are 60, 62, 58 and 48 per cent., and in a distance of 3,000 feet we ascend an altitude of 1,300 feet. It is the most wonderful railway in the world, and one of the many attractive features is the steepest bridge ever built, being 200 feet in length and the upper end being 120 feet higher than the lower end. The road is made absolutely safe by ample safety devices, and affords many thrilling experiences. This great product of science and genius, seems at first an impossible fact, but as we ascend and seemingly leave the earth a broader and better view of the valley, the cities and surrounding country is obtained, we marvel at the achievements of science and the glorious scenes about us. We step out of the car upon Echo Mountain, 3,500 feet above the sea, and behold a perfect panorama of land and ocean. At this point is situated the Echo Mountain Chalet, commanding such a view of the Incline Railway as to observe all of the different grades; the Casino, Lowe Observatory, presided over by Prof. Edgar L. Larkin. This observatory contains one of the largest and most powerful telescopes in the world, weighing three and one—half tons, and being twenty-two feet in length and sixteen inches in diameter. In the evening the great World's Fair search- light bursts forth casting its rays upon the distant cities, revealing some special object, then changing its course toward the mountains, making as light as day the Great Circular Bridge and other points of interest along the 20« railway, tlicn down into the bottomless pits of tiie can- yons. These features furnish great amusement and pleas- ure. After we have searched out some of the points of interest we then visit the observatory. Here, also, is obtained a commanding view of the San Gabriel, La Can- yada and the San Fernando valleys; Altadena, Pasadena, Los Angeles, the Pacific Ocean, Santa Catalina, San Cle- mente, Santa Barbara and the San Nicholas Islands. It is an interesting object to watch the sun set in the Pacific Ocean, and observe the shades of night settle over the beautiful San Gabriel Valley, far below, and as the dark- ness of the night approaches, instantly there appears in the distance a multitude of sparkling jewels — it is diffi- cult to realize that they are the electric lights of the cities of Los Angeles, Pasadena and Santa Monica, some thirty miles and more away. From Echo Mountain to Alpine Tavern one travels over the grandest mountain scenery in the world. Constantly ascending higher and higher, winding around the edges of beautiful canyons, looking down their steep and precipitous sides, observing still another canyon just beyond us, and soon coming to a point which a few minutes previous was directly beneath us, revealing many loops of the winding road. Soon we are upon the Great Circular Bridge, which strands a beautiful canyon, making a circle around the spur of the mountain. Los Flores Canyon, Cape of Good Hope, Millard Canyon, Live Oak Grove, Gut Heil Loop, Cir- cular Bridge, Sunset Point, Granite Gate, Grand Canyon, Alpine Park and Mount Lowe Springs are beautiful and in- viting points of interest which are seen in succession after leaving Echo Mountain en route to Ye Alpine Tavern. Beautiful scenes of sunrise and sunset as seen in the moun- tains and canyons are grand beyond description, and must be seen to be thoroughly appreciated. 209 We reach Alpine Tavern, S,ooo feet above sea level, the view of which is suddenly thrust before us as we round the last curve of this winding mountain railway. Ye Alpine Tavern is the starting point of many beautiful and exceed- ingly interesting trips. From this point ponies may be se- cured for the ascent to the summit of Mount Lowe, along the trail which affords an experience in mountaineering. Ye Alpine Tavern is situated at the upper terminus of the mountain trolley line, 5,000 feet above the sea, in a for- est of mammoth pines and oaks. It is delightfully located in a charming and picturesque spot at the head of Grand Canyon, and it is modeled after the Swiss style of archi- tecture, being a combination of granite and pine, and is a first-class hostelry in every respect, with its renowned social hall, which contains a mammoth fire-place. From Ye Alpine Tavern are numerous trails which take one over many pleasant trips in the mountains, affording grand scenes and views which it is not within our power to por- tray. There are a number of tent cottages located adjacent to "The Tavern' for the benefit of those desiring to live out of doors. The cars for Mount Lowe leave Los Angeles at regular hours from Sixth and Main streets. CHAPTER XII. SANTA CATALINA ISLAND. Hardly three hours and a half from Los Angeles, South- ern California, is Santa Catalina, an island twenty-two miles long, a park in the Pacific, a mountain range at sea; a bit of the world by itself, which in its climate, natural beauties and opportunities for sport comes as near per- fection as one can find. It abounds in beautiful and lofty mountain, deep gorges, stupendous rock cliffs and precipi- piccs. Its south and west coast has the surf and a bracing climate; its north and east is a region of calms, little bays with grass-like surfaces reflecting the rocks and mountains. There are cottages, shops, hotels and boarding houses, while a city of tents affords the lovers of camping out under ideal conditions every opportunity. The Metropole, the principal hotel, up-to-date in every respect, is situated directly on the bay. Santa Catalina Island is connected with the mainland by the daily steamers of the Wilmington Transportation Company from San Pedro, and is reached from Los An- geles by both the Southern Pacific and Salt Lake Rail- ways.. Climate. — Santa Catalina is a natural sanitarium, com- bining all that is best in the Madeira Islands and the fa- mous Riviera. Even in mid-winter the days are mild, frost being unknown in many of the valleys; the Island is then a flower garden. It has valuable sulphur springs, and the opportunities for salt baths and enjoying the remarkable varieties of climate make it an ideal resort. In winter the Metropole is visited by tourists from all over the world. The average temperature of July days at Avalon is 65 degrees. In August the highest mean temperature ob- served at six in the morning was 72 degrees, the highest at noon 78 degrees, the lowest 69 degrees. Water tempera- ture at noon 76 degrees. Avalon, while on the water, is very dry. The relative humidity for the year is 67 degrees, that of Asheville, N. C, ^2 degrees, Jacksonville, Fla., 70 degrees, Philadelphia, 70 degrees, showing a remarkable dryness over these places. Golf. — Santa Catalina Island has, in Grand Canyon, the finest links on the Pacific Slope, and experts have pro- nounced them the most picturesque in America. Here the Santa Catalina Golf Club holds forth, extending its courte- sies to visitors at its well-equipped club house, standing on a mesa overlooking the links which wind away up the beautiful canyon and among the slopes of the mountains. There are also well-kept tennis courts in connection. Sximmcr Camp Life. — Santa Catalina Island has perfect sanitary regulations, the whole under the supervision of a resident physician and health officer. There are exten- sive arrangements for the convenience of campers. Camp lots front on hard macadamizd streets and are supplied with modern flush closets connected with an outfall sewer 'I'lic streets arc cleaned and sprinkled and all garbage is iiinovid from the premises daily. I'lic Wurld's Record for Rod and Reel Fishing. — Santa Catalina Island is the home of the black sea bass, the king of the bass tribe. The record is held by Mr. Edward Lle- wellyn, who took, with rod and reel and 21 thread line, a 425-pound black sea bass — a catch which attracted the at- tention of the world of anglers. In Scribner's Magazine, Chas. Frederick Holder, describ- ing the capture of one of these fish, says : "Ten feet gained, and. Whiz-zee ! as many more are lost. In it comes once more, fighting hard, the holder of the rod bending this way and that, trying to preserve a balance and that tension which would prevent a sudden break. Now the fish darts to one side tearing the water into foam, leaving a •heet of silvery bubbles, and swinging the boat around as on a pivot. Now it is at the surface — a fleeting vision followed by a rush that carries the very gunwale under water. This, followed by a sudden slacking of the line, sends despair to the heart ; he is gone, the line floats. No, whizz ! and he is away again. All the tricks of the sturdy black bass this giant of the tribe indulges in, except the mid-air leaps. ^^^g^^^^-^c"^ \>-^ '^^^^^rfe^M^ 213 which gladden the heart of the angler. Quick turns, down- ward rushes, powerful blows, mighty runs, this gamey creature makes, fighting inch by inch, leaving an impression upon the mind of the fisherman that is not soon for- gotten." Some of the famous rod-and-reel black-sea-bass catches here are as follows : Pounds. Mrs. A. W. Barrett, Los Angeles 416 F. S. Schenck, Brooklyn, N. Y 384 T. S. Manning, Sierra Madre, Cal 370 Col. R. A. Eddy, Pasadena 362 F. V. Rider, Pasadena 327 Dr. H. H. Pease, Tucson, Arizona 320 Gail Borden, Los Angeles 268 N. B. Mead, Swinwick, Ct 256 George Only, N. Y 237 N. F. Wilshire, Los Angeles 200 C. J. M. Beard, N. Y 200 Dr. H. K. Macomber, Pasadena, Cal 150 Maj. Chas. Viele, U. S. A 148 A Santa Catalina Wild Goat. 214 The Tozvn of Avalon, with its picturesque cottages and homes on the hill sides, is built on a beautiful half-moon- shaped bay, with fleets of boats and yachts of all sizes moored here and there. For boating and batiiing Catalina Island is unexcelled. Its perfect climate and sanitation, its smooth bays, its fa- cilities for safe boating and bathing render it the ideal place for ladies and children. The little bays are crowded with boats — fishing, sailing, launches, yachts, all provided for the public pleasure. The glass-bottomed boats are es- pecial features. Glass Aquarium and Zoological Station. — A remarkable display is made in glass tanks of living plants and animals of Avalon Bay. This exhibition is one of the most inter- esting features of the island and furnishes a rare opportu- nity for the study of marine life. Marine Gardens — Glass-Bottom Boats. — The beauties of Santa Catalina are given their due by the eloquent editor of the Parisian journal "Le Figaro," jM. Huret, in an ar- ticle in that journal under date of October 29, 1903: "Floating over the green and blue water in the glass- bottom boats, one sees the goings and comings of aquatic life. The boatman names to you the marine plants and the fish, and tells you the different depths. One is astoun- ded, one questions, one exclaims. Here are shell-encrusted rocks, fish, red, green, gold, rig-zagging leisureh' among the waving foliage, the seaweed gracefully balancing with the tide; on the clear bottom the sea throws beautiful re- flections; here are real trees with long branches waving as on land by a tempest ; great fish of all shapes appear as in an artificial aquarium, the sea stars (star fish) shine in the shadows of the rocks; then more luxuriant foliage, with branches bearing clusters cf fruit resembling olives. One would think these were fertile fields suddenly sub- 215 merged by a tempest. Leaning over the transparencies in the bottom of the boats, the people go into ecstacies." Few people can imagine the exquisite delight of going out in a gently gliding boat, which moves as by magic, so still and silent is the machinery, and then gazing through the glass bottom into the limpid ocean underworld. Here are the secrets of the sea. Pure, blue, crystal, clear water, with long kelp banners fiying to and fro, over gardens full of sea grasses, mosses, plants, shrubs, trees and blooming flowers. The purple ocean-pansy and the sea anemone, with the weeds scattered everywhere in rich dark browns and glorious ambers drive away all thoughts of this being an ocean. You imagine there must be caverns, with pearl- encrusted portals in which dwell mermaids and mermen, sporting in brilliant halls where columns of coral and pearl and emerald glisten and shine in the crystal clear, which throbs and pulses with the golden sun's rays from above. Then the fish — ah ! how delightful to see them free and unafraid in their own element. Shoals of goldfish, brilliant silvery sardines, barracouda, yellowtail, black bass, the great June fish and a thousand and one varieties and kinds that dart hither and thither unaware that their human foe is watching their every movement with keenest interest. The Leaping Tuna. — Santa Catalina Island is the home of the famous leaping tuna; it is caught nowhere else with rod and reel. The Hotel Metropole is the headquarters of the Tuna Club, of 150 members, who gather here from all over the world to enjoy this exciting sport. Here is the famous tuna book, containing the pictures of the members and their catches, and here is exhibited the gold medal of the Tuna Club, which is fished for each season, and open to any angler. He who holds it becomes president of the Tuna Club, and may be said to hold the world's record for the 2l6 liardcst fighting game fish on rod and reel, one tuna being the equal to two or three tarpons, in point of strength. Some of the rod-and-reel leaping tuna records are as fol- lows : Pounds. Col. C. P. Morehouse, Pasadena (the record) 251 Mrs. E. N. Dickinson 216 John E. Stearns 197 Chas. F. Holder, Pasadena 183 G. G. Eraser, San Francisco 176 Adj. Gen. A. W. Barrett, Los Angeles, Gal 164 W. F. Loud, Pomona, Cal 156 E. L. Doran, Avalon, Cal 153 M. C. Annot, Elmira, New York 148 W. J. Landers, San Francisco 138 ]\Irs. J. Gardner, Avalon, Cal 136 Fitch Dewey, Detroit, Michigan 136 Clifford S. Scudder, St. Louis, Missouri 130 J. M. Studebaker, South Bend, Indiana 115 This fishing is at once sensational and exciting. Boats are towed from one to twenty miles before the fish is brought to gaff, and from thirty minutes to seven hours has been consumed by anglers before the fish is landed. The fish are taken within a few hundred feet of the shore in smooth waters, making the sport at once novel and delight- ful. The rushes of this fish during the summer, and flight of the flying fishes in attempting to escape are features of the locality. The tuna strikes on the rush, bounding into the air somtimes ten or fifteen feet — a magnificent spectacle; then makes a rush that often takes six hundred feet of line before the brake stops it. The boat is dragged through the water as though a tug was towing it, the fish sometimes 217 fighting for hours before it will surrender. When a school of tuna is chasing the flying fish, numbers may be seen in the air at the same time, rising like silver arrows, and turning gracefully, catching their prey literally on the wing, and sending others whirling into the air. No greater game awaits the skilled wielder of the rod than this acro- bat of the sea. Yellozvtail. — The game-fish of Catalina Island is the yel- low tail, having some resemblance to the salmon, but a much harder fighter, ranging from 17 to 80 pounds. Four or five twenty or thirty pounders, taken on a bass rod of twelve or fifteen ounces, generally satisfies the angler for the day, as each fish will fight for fifteen or twenty minutes on a light rod before coming to the gaff. Some of the best catches are as follows : Col. R. F. Stocking, 48 pounds ; F. V. Rider, 41 pounds ; Geo. Cheney, 40 pounds ; Col. C. P. Morehouse, 40 pounds. Sea Bass. — Ranging next to the yellowtail as a game- fish is the white sea bass, which attains a weight of eighty pounds, the average catch being from thirty to fifty pounds. The largest sea bass caught in Avalon Bay was taken by a lady. This fish, which weighed eighty-four pounds, towed the boat back and forth for an hour. Some of the famous catches in Avalon Bay are as folows: May i, Mr. E. Barnett, of Colorado Springs, Colo., thirteen sea bass ; 50 pounds, 35 pounds, 40 pounds, 35 pounds, 40 pounds, 38 pounds, 43 pounds, 42 pounds, 34 pounds, 65 pounds, 54 poimds, 27 pounds, 65 pounds. 2\Iay 3, J. R. Adams, of Chi- cago, five sea bass: 36 pounds, 37. pounds, 23 pounds 43 pounds, 2S pounds, 70 pounds. — all on a rod. Hunting. — On the south end of the island is the hunting preserve, the home of the Catalina Island Wild Goat, which affords fine sport, enticing the sportsman from peak to peak, and down into deep canyons, through a beautiful and pic- 2l8 turcsqiic country. About 10,000 acres have been set aside for this purpose. The sport is followed on horseback, horses familiar with the sport and country being available. Permission may be obtained and guides procured by ap- plication to the Superintendent at Avalon. Empire Quarry. — About twelve miles from Avalon arc quarries of a fine green, serpentine stone which is used for mantels, bases, switch-boards, and many other useful and ornamental purposes. It is capable of being turned into the most delicate vases and cups. The ancient inhabitants used this stone for household vessels and for implements, and its durability is demonstrated by the work in this material which the Indians left on the Island, possibly hundreds of years ago, and which are being continually discovered. The varied formation of the island affords a very in- teresting study to the geologist. The botanist will also find that some very interesting excursions can be inade to the various canyons, where quite a variety of ferns are to be found, such as maiden-hair, sword-fern, etc., while flowers abound in the spring time. Wireless Telegraphy. — At Santa Catalina one may see the marvelous message-sending by the Pacific Wireless ^-'^^ On the Tally-Ho Drive, Santa Catalina. 219 Telegraph Companj'. The building is in a niche, high up on the island. All the observer sees is a room where the ordinary telegraphic key is in sight, but behind are the deli- cate instruments which aid in the transmission of messages. Chief of these is the induction coil composed of one hun- dred and twenty-five miles of fine insulated wire. By means of this and other instrunients flashes of invisible lightning, in long or short pulsations, are thrown into the atmosphere. "Passing through the air with the speed of light they find their affinity in the wire suspended from the poles of the re- ceiving station, and passing down this wire on its way to the earth," the wave gives pulsations in the receiver, where the operator notes them just as is done with the ordinary tele- graphic machine. Messages can be sent to Los Angeles and answers received in thirty minutes. As far as I know this is the first commercial demonstration of the wireless tele- graph in California. Fa7-es. — Regular fare from Los Angeles to Catalina Is- land and return, $2.75. Excursion rate, good going Saturday or Sundaj^ returning same days or following Monday, $2.50. Saturday and Sunday tickets will be extended sixty days from date of purchase upon payment of 25 cents additional to captain or purser of the steamers of the Wilmington Transportation Company. CHAPTER XIII. THE CLIMATE OF SOUTHERN tALlFOKNIA. Ever since Joaquin Miller wrote his "First Families of the Sierras," the "glorious climate of California" has been noted the world over. That so many thousands should have come under its spell is proof that there is a marvelous witchery about it, and this no one, however he may argue, can deny. In climate, as in fruits and flowers, California may well be the wonder of the world, for it has not its equal in the world for variety and equality. . There are several misapprehensions in regard to Cali- fornia climate that it is well to correct. First. As to the rainy season. Second. As to the heat of the summer climate. Third. As to the enervating effect of the everlasting sunshine. Nearly twenty years of residence and study of the cli- matic conditions entitle me to speak as one who knows definitely as to these misapprehensions. The Rainy Scaso}i. — The term "rainy" as applied to a Southern California season of any kind is a misnomer. It is merely local phrase to distinguish the time when rain falls, however slightly, from the time when none falls. During the summer months, say from May to October, and often as late as November, no rain falls, as a rule: net a drop. Then, in October or November, and until the end of April, rain may be expected any time. But how? Not as rain falls in the East, but in gentle showers, seldom last- ing long, and often in the night time, so that a common average for a wJioIe zinnter's rain will be from 15 to 20 221 inches. Some years have given but 7 inches. Now it is no uncommon thing to have a rainfall of 6 or 7 inches in one week in any of the States of the East or Middle West. Hence, it can readily be seen that to call a season that gives but from 7 to 20 inches of rain a "rainy season," is mislead- ing. The Heat of Summer. — In regard to this I quote from a circular issued by the Los Angeles Chamber of Commerce. "Strangers argue that if the weather is so pleasantly mild at midwinter, it must, in summer, be something like a fiery furnace, as the name of Southern California was formerly supposed to indicate. Recently, at a convention of a relig- ious body in the East, when the question of selecting the next place of meeting came up, one of the delegates said it would never do to meet in Los Angeles, because in May it would be so hot that all the delegates would become sick. Such a statement as this may well excite a smile, from those who are acquainted with the climatic conditions of South- ern California. It is true that, away from the ocean, the thermometer sometimes registers a high figure, but the ex-, ceptional dryness of the atmosphere, facilitating perspira- tion, makes a vast difiference, so that a temperature of 90 degrees in Los Angeles is more comfortable than one of 75 degrees in the humid atmosphere of Chicago or New York. Again, in Southern California, the nights are invariably cool. There is scarcely a night in the year in which blan- kets are not necessary for sleeping, however warm the pre- ceding day may have been. This is a point which will be appreciated by those who have sufifered the discomfort of hot nights in the East, which involve positive torture. In short. Southern California possesses that rare thing, an 'all-the-year-round' climate." Perpetual Sunsiiine Enervating. — As to the enervating effect of the monotonous sunshine and perpetually pleasant weather. The best answer is not to argue or theorize, but 222 to point to llic marvelous progrcs"; made in tlic building up of all the cities of Southern California during tlic past few years. Los Angeles has as much energy, vim, push, and business enterprise for its size, and more, than Chicago, Boston or New York. Men work as hard, and as many liours as in the East, riic climate does not enervate. It stimulates and invigorate?. But more. It is .so equable that one is not exhausted l)y liattling to keep v/arm in winter and struggling to overcome the heat of summer. He re- tains all the physical power he can generate for his work, be it brain or physical labor. And only those who know the sapping and wasting of the energies that come from an excess of heat or cold can comprehend to the full what it means to live in a climate where the exhausting drafts upon the powers of a man are no longer made. It is a well known fact that a sudden fall or rise in tem- perature is very injurious to the aged, or those w'ho are in any way weekly. In Southern California these sudden meteorological changes are practically unknown, so that the semi-invalid and the aged who wish to conserve all their powers are enabled to do so. A powerful argument against the idea that the mild cli- mate of Southern California is emasculating is found in the marvelous endurance of all native bred animals. The Cali- fornian wild horse performs feats of endurance that no Eastern horse can possibly equal. And stable bred horses, like those of Lucky Baldwin, L. J. Rose and Senator Stan- ford, demonstrate what the race horse of California can accomplish. As to the strength of the native aborigine the stories told of the Yuma and Mohave Indians in tracking on the hot deserts almost surpass belief, for they go far beyond the achievements of the most carefully trained athe- letes of the East. Climate and Beauty. — There is no denying that an equable climate is conducive to the production of the highest type 223 of beauty in both male and female. Perfect beauty is per- fect health. The better the conditions for health the more assured is beauty. Climate and Children. — Does it need any argument to show that such a climate as this of Southern California makes the land a perfect paradise for children? Able to live out of doors practically every day in the year; lungs, heart, brain, body everywhere brought in contact with the healthful, invigorating, sun-laden air of "God's great out- of-doors," surrounded by flowers, trees, plants of every kind exhaling their balmy and soothing odors, what wonder that the children are beautiful, healthful and happy. Climate and Longei'ity. — Pages upon pages could be written of facts to show the effects of such a climate as ihat of Southern California in promoting longevity. In- dians, Mexicans, Spaniards and Americans alike have dem- onstrated the fact. Indians of 130 years old are by no means infrequent. Dr. Remondino in his learned and in- teresting paper "Longevity and Climate," published in 1890, lells of an Indian on the Sweetwater, who was one hundred and fifteen years old, who "thoroughly enjoyed a joke and is a great talker. He is wonderfully active and a great walker, and always on the go. A fifty mile trip, going and return- ing from the mountains for a bag of acorns which he packs on his back, is a matter of no moment for the old gentle- man." Climate and Disease. — Equable climate, congenial sur- roundings, healthful conditions have much to do in enabling invalids to overcome disease. Those who are feeble or beginning to be sick should remove from a too hot, or a too cold, or a too variable climate at once and come to Southern California. Here they may be out of doors in the open air all day throughout the year and sleep in the balsam- laden woods in the open all through the summer, and in tents all through the winter. Clear skies and sunshine have 224 a directly tonic effect, and a climate wlicrc fresh fruits may l)e piircliased in open market and eaten every day in the year is a godsend. Then, too, the cool, bracing night air, when blankets are needed even through the summer, is con- ducive to sleep, and thus "Nature's balmy restorer" aids in the great work of building up the health of the enfeebled, and conserving the failing powers of the aged. For specific diseases there can be no question whatever but that in pulmonary troubles, all nervous diseases, all asthmatic afflictions certain localities of Southern California are wonderfuly helpful. Hot Springs, Bathing, Etc. — As will be found on con- sulting the index, there are many hot springs, etc., all of which are aids to climate in restoring health. Causes of Climate. — Dr. Norman Bridge thus scientifi- cally explains the glory of our remedial climate : "Given on the one side an enormous body of deep, cold water — cold because enormous and deep — the everlasting ocean ; on the other, and not far inland, a valuable line of lofty mountains ; between them an irregular inclined-plane of earth reaching from the base of the mountains to the sea, from one to sixty miles away ; this surface looking southerly toward the sun; and the whole situated far south in lati- tude — and you have a set of circumstances that make the statements set forth about inevitable. No other result would be at all possible. "The southern sun warms the earth and heats the air stratum just above it; the air, of course, rises toward the heavens, but it cannot rise much without some air flowing in to take its place. It is more convenient, and means less resistance, for the air from the level stretch of the ocean to come in to take its place, than for the air from the desert beyond the mountains to rise above the peaks and come over to accomplish this purpose. Hence, the breeze from the ocean during the sunshine hours of the day; and it must be cool, for the ocean is cold. It is only on rare occasions that meteorological conditions arise that interrupt the regu- larity of this daily ocean breeze blowing inland during the last four-fifths of the sun-seen day. "Then as soon as the sun sets, the air becomes rapidly cooler, so great is the radiation of the heat from the earth. The radiation is greater than on the Atlantic coast because the atmosphere is drier, the so-called diathermancy of the air is greater; hence the earth's surface gets cooled more quickly. The greatly elevated surfaces, like mountain tops, become cool more rapidly and more extremely than lower points. The cool peaks and ridges chill the air that touches them, which becomes at once more concentrated and heavier, and so it flows by its own weight down the mountain side into the valleys and lowlands, exactly as water flows down hill. As the higher lands are cooler than the plain, this pro- cess continues mostly throughout the night, and hence the cool night breeze from the mountain. "During all the warm months of the year this see-sawing of air currents constantly goes on with only occasional interruptions by unusual wind elements. A sea breeze dur- ing the day and a zephyr from the mountains at night is a rule with only rare exceptions. If you will open a north and a south window of a house and watch a lighted candle set in one of them, you shall see its blaze tip sharply toward the north nearly all day long, and if the window opening be narrow, it may be blown out. At about sunset it will begin to straighten up, and presently, for a time may be seen to indicate a perfectly still atmosphere ; it will burn straight and erect, but soon it will tip gently toward the south, and so remain, with some flickerings and irregulari- ties, till morning." Writing of the advantages of California's summer climate one says in Sunset : "Consider a few of the virtues possess- 226 L(l l)y out-of-door California during the summer months, litre are a dozen of them: 1. — You may camp without fear of rain. 2. — Nights arc cool and blankets comfortable. 3. — Sunstroke and heat prostrations are unknown. 4. — Flowers and fruits are everywhere. 5. — Away from the coast the air is extremely dry, with absence of all humidity at night. 6. — Pests of mosquitoes and gnats and the like are rarely found. 7. — The air of the mountain and the pine forests is so invigorating that all coolies must be hired by season's contract less abnormal appetites appal them. 8. — There are more stretches of sandy beaches where the surf of the Pacific meets the swimmer more than half way and makes sea-bathing a delight. 9. — There are lakes and rivers and forests where sports- men may keep busy with rod and gun under happiest conditions. ID. — There arc hundreds of hotels and hospitable resorts dotting the State from mountain to sea-shore, nearly all with open door greetings the entire year. A Word of Caution. — One word of caution is needed. Owing to the small amount of moisture in the Southern California atmosphere but little heat is conveyed into the shade. So that it is no uncommon thing to stand in the sun and be uncomfortably hot, and then move but a distance of three feet, into the shade, and there speedily become chilled. Easterners cannot comprehend this. Yet is is a most serious matter. Beware of sitting in the shade unless well provided with wraps. Again, when you go for walk or drive in the snnshinc remove some of your wraps. When you return home or get into the shade put them on again until your body has become used to the reduced tempera- ture. CHAPTER XIV. IRRIGATION IN SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA. He is but a poor reader of ancient literature, history and ruins, who does not therein find much food for thought on the subject of "irrigation." Palestine has many irriga- tion reservoirs and aqueducts to-day, which remain as a memorial of ancient irrigation systems. In Egypt, Syria, South America, China, India, Ceylon, Greece, Rome, Mexi- co, Arizona, are found the remains of extensive irrigation systems. Southern California is the first country in modern times to restore the ancient methods, on improved plans, and thus compel the otherwise arid and barren soil to yield up its rich treasures of agricultural, horticultural and floral wealth. ADVANTAGES OF IRRIGATION. The advantages of irrigation are now no longer a ques- tion for discussion. It is forever established that irriga- tion gives almost absolute control, and power of regulation over the moisture supply, to the owner of the land. In corn and alfalfa, as well as oranges and apricots, the ad- vantages of a certain crop and larger yield are secured by irrigation. Every farmer, who relies upon irrigation for the success of his endeavors, knows that the work of a season cannot be brought to naught by a week's drought. The elements and seasons are practically under his control. An- other advantage is that the fertilizing properties, washed down from the mountains and held in solution by the water, are, by irrigation, properly distributed over the land for its enrichment and renovation. The art of irrigation in Southern California has been 228 hrniijiilu lo a lii^licr state of perfection than it lias ever at- tained in any other Age, or any other part of the world. In- deed tlie marvelous growth of the country during the past fifteen years is almost entirely due to this one fact. 'i'lic processes of irrip:ation in Southern California may y '^:^^9?'i-u- Irrtydio^ be classed under three heads: (i) Frequent irrigation with rare cultivation; (2) medium irrigation with medium cul- tivation; (3) rare irrigation with frequent cultivation. The first may be termed the method of the pioneer, the second the method of experience, the third the method resulting from education. The primitive Mexican farmer wasted as much w'ater in growing a half acre of beans, corn and mel- ons, as is now found ample to thoroughly irrigate tw-enty to forty acres or oranges or muscat grapes. The change has been brought about by experience, education, and a free use of the cultivator. Anaheim, Riverside, Pasadena, Ontario, Pomona, Red- lands, Highlands, Alessandro, Chula Vista, San Jacinto, Hemet, Imperial, and many other cities and regions all owe their marvelous and unexampled prosperity to the proper irrigation of the soil. 229 To attempt, in this hand-book, any description of tlie many irrigation systems of Southern California would be impossible, yet there are a few of them that all who are in- terested in the subject should endeavor to A'isit. These are: The Bear Valley System, with a dam 60 feet high. This is situated in the San Bernardino mountains. The Sweetwater Dam, in San Diego County, has been so often visited and described that it is world-renowned. It is the largest of its kind ever constructed, and its reservoir covers 700 acres, with a storage capacity of six billions of gallons. The Hemet System is another great undertaking, in Riv- erside County, situated in the San Jacinto mountains. The Lake Hemet Water Co. in the year 1890 began the construction of the great Hemet Dam across the South Fork of the San Jacinto River, at a point 4,400 feet above sea level and 2,800 feet above the town of Hemet. This dam is the largest piece of solid masonary in the West, and was completed in 1895. It is 250 feet long,ioo feet thick at the base, and 1221^ feet high, or about the height of an ordinary ten-story "sky-scraper" building. flume .t R,^cr^.'j- ' • ■y'^'Ml!-^ 2.30 Tlic watcr-slied supplying Lake Hemet contains over loo,- 000 acres. From its altitude and the fact that it consists of wild, uninhabited mountain wastes, there can be no con- tamination of the water supply. From the dam the water flows for ten miles through a natural channel, the rocky bed of a gorge or canyon, where it enters the pipes, flumes and cement ditches of the water system, to be conducted to the homes of the residents of the valley. Palm Springs. Banning, Beaumont, Redlands. Highlands, ctr., all have fine irrigation systems. Perhaps the most extensive irrigation system of Southern California, is that of Imperial, referred to elsewhere. Tn 1896 the California Development Company was organized, which, in IQOO, began the work of excavating canals for its vast irrigation svstem. The main canal is seventy feet Avide and eight feet deep. It purposes to irrigate 500.000 acres of land in the United States and 300,000 in Lower California. All the land is desert land, and many thousands of acres still remain that may be taken up from the gov- ernment by any settler at $1.25 per acre. The present price of the water right is $20 per acre additional. The climate is thus referred to by the Imperial Land Company. "Tn summer time for four or five months the maximum temperature ranges all the way from 90 to 115 above zero, with a very few days in which a still higher record is made up to ITQ. During this period the minimum temperature ranges from 60 to 7=;. There are no nights in summer that are too warm for comfortable sleeping and rest. In winter the maximum temperature ranges from 55 to 85, and the minimum ran.ges from 24 to 55. The avera.ge minimum temperature in December, tqot. was 40. and the same fig- ures also apply to January, 1902. The average maximum temperature for December was 72- and for January, 70. There are very few nights in winter too cold for citrus 231 . fruits, but these few are apparently fatal to citrus fruit cul- ture in the main portions of the valley. There is a mesa on the southeast side of the valley not yet irrigated, where a frostless belt will be found." It is stated that the annual rainfall is about two inches, hence it will be seen that all the farming must be done by irrigation. Of the vast irrigation systems soon to be undertaken by the National Government it is too soon to write. In later editions of this volume this work will be fully described as it progresses. CHAPTER XV. EXPERIMENTAL AGRICULTURE IN SOUTHERN' CALIKORNiA. Tlic U. S. Government is wisely fostering and seeking to enlarge the scope of its agricultural interests. In 1839 the national appropriation for agriculture was $1,000; in 1901, $3,305,500. The U. S. Department of Agriculture is a most stupendous organization with divisions covering animal in- dustry, chemistry, botany, entomology, biological survey, for- estry, vegetable physiology and pathology, agrostology, for- eign markets, pomology, soils, seeds, weather and others. In 1888 experimental stations were established on a line with Washington's and other suggestions. Lincoln, on May 5, 1862, created the independent Department of Agriculture and on July 2. of the same year, signed the Morrill Land Grant Act, which gave to each State for colleges devoted to agriculture and the mechanic arts thirty thousand acres of land for each senator and representative. In 1887 the Hatch Act added $15,000 a year to each State for experi- mental stations, and in 1890 the Morrill Act added an- other $28,000 per year. The stations of California are under the control of the Professor of Agriculture at the head station at Berkeley, Cal., Prof. E. W. Hilgard in charge. In Southern California there is a station at Pomona, and a forestry station at Santa IMonica. A new forestry station is also established on Mount Lowe, under the direction of Professor T. P. Lukens of the San Gabriel Forest Re- serve. Special investigations are made as to the treatment of alkali soils, arid lands, irrigation, the various methods of 233 culture, and a thorough survey of all the soils and fer- tilizers of the State is being made. Analyses of water for irrigation and domestic purposes are constantly being made, as well as studies of the fruits and fruit products, the in- fluence of climate and location on different varieties. ''In- vestigations of citrus fruits, wines, olives, sugar-beets, can- aigre and other crops, particularly those best resisting droughts or alkali, have been very extensive. Studies of foods and dietaries for human beings and domestic ani- mals have been carried on for years. Weeds, plant diseases, and injurious insects have received constant attention. Dis- tribution of new and rare seeds and plants have been made annually. Classes, lectures, laboratory work, correspond- ence, original investigations into problems of California agriculture fill the time of these busy workers." While Luther Burbank, the wizard of the plant, does not live in Southern California, his home being at Santa Rosa, it is appropriate briefly to refer to his work, which is world-famed, as it suggests similar possibilities to those of like spirit. By careful and reverent study of nature's methods he has developed some wonderful results. The giant prune has come from the French prune ; berries four times as large as the old varieties; the prolific improved peachplum; the exquisite Shasta daisy; the pineapple quince; the new fruit, the plumcot, a mixture of apricot and plum; the peach almond; and a score or more of flowers. His fame began when he developed the potato that bears his name, — the Burbank. Good cultivation and persistent selection are his watchwords. In the cross pollenation or hybridizing of flowers his achievements sound like magic, yet they are only the results of scientific methods persistently followed. CHAPTER XVr. EDUCATION I.V SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA. The mental calibre of a community or a State can well be tested by the educational opportunities it provides for its sons and its daughters. Of the public schools of this por- tion of the State it is not necessary to say more than that per capita more money is expended here for public education than in any other center in the world. While the two great educational institutions of the State, viz. : the State University at Berkeley, and the Leland Stan- ford, Jr., University at Palo Alto are in the northern part of the State they are, of course, open to the youth of the South with those of the North, for, as I have elsewhere re- marked there is in California no north and no south except as a local phrase of convenience. In Los Angeles and San Diego are State Normal Schools, both conducted with that high degree of efficiency re- quired by the exacting educational conditions. The build- ings are new, modern and well equipped, as are all the various departments. The Methodists control the University of Southern Cali- fornia, which is located in the western part of the city of Los Angeles. Its president is Dr. George Bovard. Its art department is the finest in the South, and is under the control of Professor W. L. Judson, the dean, who him- self is an artist of growing international fame. This school is imique in California and has received the highest commendations and endorsements from the eminent art ed- ucators from Eastern cities who have visited Southern California from time to time. It is essentially modern in its methods and principles, practical and eminently sue- 23^ ccssful in ils results, (uniiiiK out not merely craftsmen, Init artists, imbued with the true artistic spirit. It is located at Garvanza, one of the suburbs of Los Angeles, on the electric line to Pasadena. The Presbyterians control the Occidental College occupy- ing a fine new classical building on Pasadena Avenue, Los Angeles. The Roman Catholics have St. Vincent's College, an in- stitution with an enviable record. It is also in Los Angeles. The Congregationalists support Pomona College at Clare- mont, which is a rapidly growing institution under the pre- sidency of Dr. Gates, formerly of Grinnell, Iowa. The Dunkards have a good school at Lordsburg, and the Theosophical School of Ancient Mysteries, etc.. at Point Loma, near San Diego, is renowned throughout the world. Throop Polytechnic Institute, at Pasadena, is one of the best equipped of manual and technical training schools and its president and professors are honored as leading expon- ents of their art throughout the whole country. Of lesser schools pages might be written. Among the principal of them are the Harvard Military Academy, Dob- inson's school of Dramatic Art, ^liss Marsh's School for Girls, Girls' Collegiate School, Mrs. Addison Murphy Griggs's School of Oratory, McLeod's College of Fine Arts, all in Los Angeles, and Miss Orton's School for Girls in Pasadena. Another well known school is that of Dr. Thacker in the Ojai Vallej', where bojs are given an out- door life, under military drill. Every city and town of the State, also, has its private kindergartens and schools, thus aflFording adequate facili- ties for the education of children of both sexes and all ages. CHAPTER XVI r. SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA ARTISTS. This is essentiall}'^ the artist's paradise. Italy, Spain, the Mediterannean are not more alluring in physical aspect than California and the Pacific. The mountains, sky-piercing, snow-crowned, slope-forested, flower-carpeted, canyon- seamed, stream-vivified, leading to foothills, valley, sandy heach, wide expanse of pearly blue ocean and far away islands, swimming in a glorious fog or purple haze, the whole overarched with a sky of perfect cobalt, afford a surpassing background for man and his achievements. Hence a school of artists is awakening to life here that will eventually be as noted and world-renowned as any of the old schools of Europe. Later I shall write more fully of these artists. Here I can but cusorily mention them. Judson, dean of the art department of the University of Southern California, is one of its foremost leaders, both as practical artist and successful teacher. His canvasses have a strength and power that render them peculiar- ly attractive to those who have been allured by the nature of California and its adjoining Arizona. In his Grand Canyon pictures, with the sunrise and sunset effects upon the glowing walls of red, no other artist has ever caught so perfectly the life and spirit as he. His Yosemites, Seascapes, Old Missions, trees, etc., are all powerful and pleasing and have already made a definite place for them- selves in the great world of art. Sauerwin has made notable pictures of Indians and des- ert life. Several lengthy visits to the Navahoes, Hopis and other tribes and a careful studying of the Arizona plains. 238 niouiilains and clcserls in all llicir varying moods have given him a knowledge which his fearless brush has util- ized to fine advantage. Brown is another of this new school. He loves the pur- ples of the mountains, the blue of the sky flecked with clouds, and the quietly pastoral scenes of the valley, and he produces pictures that will live and grow in fame. Gardner Symons is a vigorous, robust, wide-sweeping soul that dares and achieves. He soars high, even to the banner clouds that float from our highest mountain sum- mits, and then dives into deepest canyon depths, and al- ways with a vivid power that makes mountains, clouds, canyons live and palpitate before you. Of the vivid colorist effects of Paul de Longpre's flowers the world itself has already said its say. Located perman- ently now at Hollywood, surrounded by flowers as he never was in La Belle France, we may look for further achieve- ments from this talented brush that will far eclipse any- thing he has yet done. Alex. F. Harmer, of Santa Barbara, has won his way to fame by persistent, consistent labor and faith in his own genius. As a depicter of the Indians of Arizona and Cali- fornia, no man living is so well equipped for the work. When a mere lad he began his study of them. Twenty or more years ago he was on the frontier campaigning with Crook, and associating with Bourke and other Indian ex- perts. He is one of the few artists of the world who has visited the Havasupai Indians in their native habitat, the wonderful Havasu Canj'on in which are waterfalls more exquisitely beautiful than those of the Yosemite. He paints the old life of the padres, Indians and Spanish at the mis- sions, as well as produces upon leather in his own fash- ion artistic effects depicting "The Passing of the Nations," for the library of Attorney General Knox, at Pittsburg. 239 Bond Francisco is well known as artist and manipulator of the magic bow. As violinist or artist he excels. His work shows that keen appreciation of the gentle, peaceful, pastoral that places him as an artist side by side with Row- land Sill as a poet. In flowers Edith White has gained well deserved fame, many of her canvasses having been purchased for Euro- pean galleries and homes. With a passionate love for flow- ers she has developed a poetic conception of their life which she depicts in conscious power for others. Ellen B. Farr also excels in this line, and also as South- ern California's chief fish painter. By heredity or choice she must be a favorite disciple of the shade of Isaak Walton for she expatiates upon the "Noble Art" of angling in a way that reveals her natural aptitude. Only such an one could paint fish as she has done. They live under her brush, and delight nature lovers who are not fishermen as well as those who are. She has also marked success in her pepper tree paintings. These are essentially Southern Cali- fornian and carry with them the lacy leaves, creamy blos- soms, vivid berries and grateful surroundings wherever they go. Carl Eytsl is a rising young artist who has the true stuff in him. For fourteen years he has made a special study of the Colorado Desert, the wild cattle thereupon and the palms in the canyons near Palm Valley. He is destined to make his mark, for no man can live on the desert as he lias done unless his heart is aflame with love for its color- ings, its silences, its mysteries, and is desirous of pre- senting them to others. His cattle scenes are true to life especially when he pictures the rugged side of their life, as in his painting of the two bulls of the desert in a duel to the death. 240 Elmer Waclitcl is another Los Angeles arlist hose work in landscapes is strong and full of poltic feeling. Mrs. C. Dalton Bond came to Los Angeles from Europe and for sixteen years has worked here successfully in porcelain, oil and water-color. Her porcelain head of Cleopatra has gained her much renown. N. J. Newark, who settled in Santa Barbara in 1874, is making special studies of the Old Missions and early Cali- fornia life. CHAPTER XVIII. THE WILD FLOWERS OF SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA. This makes no pretence to being a complete botanical chapter. It is merely a suggestion for the general reader. The student will find several good books on the subject m any first-class bookstore. During the summer the plains, foothills and mountain slopes are not outwardly rich in floral treasures, but when tlie winter rains come, in November, flowers spring up everywhere like magic. Baby-blue-eyes, opening their inno- cent lids to the sun; forget-me-nots, pale blue and white; the small yellow daisy growing in legions among violets and ijuttercups, by clustering hyacinths, at the feet of the bluebell — up the hillside and under the rocks, hiding awhile with the delicate fern. The larkspurs and lupines abound, and most prized of all, beds of acres of the copa de oro, the cup of gold, the California poppy. In April or May it seems as if nothing could surpass the broad vistas of heath- ery chemosal, or grease-wood, powdered like snow with its racemose panicles of tiny white blossoms ; then you are attracted to the snowy lilybells or harebells or white- globe tulips, whose three petaled white globes are of so delicate a texture as to be almost translucent; only to be driven out of mind when you catch sight of the styrax, whose pure white vies in loveliness with the orange-blos- soms of the valleys. Here are brilliant scarlet Indian pinks and bugle-shaped penstemons, yellow buttercups and creamcups, dandelions, mimulus, tree poppies and sunflow- ers. Yonder are purple brodias, which delight the eyes of strangers at our flower carnivals. By the streams are to be seen scores of tiger lilies, flaunting their riotous color banners before the eye, as if jealous of the stately dignity and calm serenity of the gigantic yuccas with their cream- 242 wliitc distaffs, well named by the old priests "The Candle- sticks of Our Lord." The wild honeysuckle gives out its fragrance and clusters of everlasting flower, a member of the edleweiss family, puts forth its crowded clusters. Earlier in the winter one sees the waxed flowers of the manzanita and now the trees are laden with the little ap- ples which give the plant its name. The wild morning glories, with snow white funnels, look upon the love-plant the hateful dodder, that spreads its reddish brown threads over other plants to strangle out their life. Everywhere is the white sage making the air redolent with its fragrance. Of the lily family are the mariposa tulip of several varie- ties. Yonder is the blazing star, a surpassingly beautiful blossom, its slender, lemon-yellow petals of the texture of a primrose. One of the hardy evergreen shrubs that ever delights the eye is the toyon, or California holly. In midsummer it is covered with showy large clusters of white flowers : in winter with vivid scarlet berries. A general favorite found only in the remote canyons is the matilija poppy (pornounced ma-til-ly-hah), the Romneya Coulteri. This is a shrubby plant perhaps ten feet high and as many across. The Spanish children call the flowers Los Hcrmanitas, the little sisters, because the white waving petals suggests to them the spreading bonnets of the Sisters of Charity. Who can forget H. H.'s description of the wild mus- tard, once planted by the Spanish priests to line the path- way from mission to mission. "Coming up out of the earth, so slender a stem that dozens can find starting-point in an inch, it darts up, a slender, straight shoot, five, ten. twenty feet, with hundreds of fine feathery branches lock- ing and interlocking with all the other hundreds around it. till it is an inextricable net work like lace. Then it bursts into yellow bloom still finer, more feathery and lace-like. 243 Tlie stems arc so infinitesmally small and of so dark a green, that at a short distance they do not show, and the cloud of blossoms seems floating in the air ; at times it looks like golden dust. With a clear, blue sky behind it, as it is often seen, it looks like a golden snow storm." But the butter-cups, the wall-flower and the pop-corn, the Johnney-jump-up, the hollyhock, the gilia and the layia, lead the eye to the flowering shrubs, the California holly, the cornus, the coffee-berry, the wild rose and the islay, or holly-leaved cherry, while overhead towers the pepper, the acacia and the exquisite flower cups of the eucalyptus, whose creamy blossoms no garden flower can equal, much less surpass. On the hill sides are cowslips, blue violents and magenta rock-cress, while a little lower are the iris both the longi- petala and the Douglasii, their beautiful gowns alluring the flitting insects. Still lower are the sunflower and the thistle, the golden rod, the deadly night-shade and the currant, the pink Collinsia and the snowy star of Bethlehem, the red columbine and a score of others. In the ravines the trillium, the true Solomon's Seal, and Its false sister, the frittilaria, and the shooting star, seek shelter. In the water course is the veronica, the smart- weed, the silver-weed and the flea-bane. Here and there the convolculus and the pea support themselves on their stronger brothers, while under the shade of shrubs the violet nemophila and the Dutchman's pipe clamber up for the sun's rays, and the dainty yerba buena clings close to the earth. In the woodsides the delicate anemone and the beautiful bleeding-heart hide away, while on the sands of the coasts one may revel in asters, abronias, tornitas and lupines. Everywhere in the plains is the delicate "filaree," the al- fileria, which is as beautiful and graceful to the eye as cattle find it to the taste. CHAPTER XIX. SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA FOR THE SPORTSMAN This is the sportsman's paradise, or, at least, so say Theo. S. Van Dyke, Charles Frederick Holder and a score of other sportsmen of international fame. Duck Hunting. — The home dwellers of the duck family are the mallard, gadwell, or glay duck, and the wood duck. The sprig, the cinnamon, or blue-winged teal, and a few green-winged teal resort to the rivers and marshes. The migratory ducks include the widgeon, canvas-back, red-head, bluebill, spoonbill and the nomad families of sprig and teal. Every duck known to frequent the temperate zone and all varieties of birds that feed upon the waters and margins of streams, even the gigantic pelican, are found here. The most numerous are the widgeon, teal, sprig, gadwell, canvas back, red-head, butterball, ruddy, bluebill, black- jack, cinnamon teal, sawbill, Mexican tree duck, brown- head or whistler, mallard and spoonbill. These with the curlew, avacet, murlin, bullhead plover, black ibis, yellow- leg, English jack-Snipe and other spray- footed water fowl, make up a select assortment that cannot be equaled even in the famous hunting grounds of Chesapeake Bay or the Everglades of Florida. October, November, December and January are the favo- rite and open months for duck hunting. Feathered game, such as doves, mountain quail, grouse and sagehens abound. As one goes over the mountain and valley roads he will constantly see bevies of quail, bright- 245 eyed videttes of the wildwood army of occupation, strutting in single file ahead or to one side of him. Deer, Antelope, Bear, etc. — Van Dj-ke's "Still Hunter" and his other books on Southern California hunting give all the information that is necessary upon these subjects. Here are fields that expert hunters say are better than the generality of the classic hunting fields of the United States. Trout Fishing. — There are many streams teeming with trout (the Salmo iridens) in Southern California. Out from Pasadena, San Diego, Pomona, Ontario, and especially up the San Bernardino range in the headwaters of the Santa Ana, fine fishing streams are to be found. Here trout find congenial habitat, plenty of cold, pure, running water and almost ideal spawning grounds. The brook trout (Salmo fontanalis) is plentiful. Good casts used are Benn's royal coachman as a dropper, a black gnat- body with a royal coachman wing for the middle fly, and Benn's professor, grizzly king, or a light-winged caddis for the top. Tie these flies on a No. 8 sproat. From an article in Sunset magazine, written by Edgar D. Peixotto, I extract the following: Matters pertaining to the fish and game of California are under the supervision and control of what is officially termed the State Board of Fish Commissioners, three in number, appointed by the governor of the State, with the consent of the senate, and hold office during the gov- ernor's pleasure. The position is honorary, carrying no compensation. The present commissioners (1903) are H. W. Keller, of Santa Monica, president of the commission ; W. W. Van Arsdale, San Francisco, and W. E. Gerber, Sacramento. The chief deputy commissioner is Charles A. Vogelsang. The powers and duties of the State Board of Fish Com- missioners are briefly : To see that the laws for the preser- 246 vation of fisli and game arc strictly enforced, and for that purpose they may employ such assistants as they may deem necessary, which assistants shall have the powers and au- thority of sheriffs to make arrests for violation of the fish and game laws; to establish fish hatcheries for stocking the waters of the State with foreign and native fish ; to purchase and import spawn and ova of fish suitable for food, and to stock with such spawn the waters of the State ; to employ persons skilled in fish breeding to assist them in their duties and to plan, direct and compel the construction and repair of fish ladders and ways; open dams and obstruc- tions ; to provide for the distribution and protection of game birds imported into this State for the purpose of propagation ; and to make a biennial report to the governor of their transactions and disbursements. The commission's work was at first largely taken up with the protection and propagation of fish, and some of the most amazing results have been accomplished through their labors. Foremost among the protected fish of California is the salmon. By the legislation and restriction in regard to this fish, its supply has not only been preserved, but very much increased, and the wholesale price in the market has been kept as low as from five to eight cents, the supply being abundant both for the market and for the many canneries maintained in California. Striped bass is an excellent illustration of the accom- plishment of the commission. This fish, like shad, was entirely unknown in the waters of California. About eighteen years ago, four hundred striped bass (fingerlings). brought from the East, were planted near Benicia in the Straits of Carquinez, and to-day, from a commercial stand- point, striped bass stands next to salmon as a food fisli of this State. Last spring striped bass was the cheapest fish sold on the Sacramento River, bringing from one to 247 one and a half cents per pound, while sahnon was sold for from five to six cents. The legislature of 1901 made June a closed season for striped bass and reduced the weight limit to one pound. This act was not found to be effective by the commission, and on its recommendation the legislature of 1903 restored the former law of no closed season for striped bass and restored the weight limit to not less than three pounds. The propagation of shad has met with similar success, and it is a fact that the shad which have been propagated in the waters of California have attained a considerably larger growth than the shad in the eastern waters. As an antithesis to striped bass and as an example of destruction by lack of prohibitive laws, the decreasing of the supply of sturgeon may be cited. Sturgeon, from being so abundant in the waters about California as to have little or no market value, by reason of unrestricted capture and destruction, became one of the highest priced fish, so high as to be prohibited to the masses. As the flesh of sturgeon and the roe for caviar are important food products, the legislature of 1901, under the recommendation of the Fish Commission, passed a law prohibiting at all times, for an indefinite period, the taking of sturgeon. When this fish will have again come into abundance no doubt the re- striction will be modified. In no part of the world may be found finer shrimps or crabs than those found in the waters of California. Gour- mets from all over the world acquiesce in this. The abundance seemed unlimited and the price was so trifling that shrimp and crab were given away as a trimming in many of the restaurants. But the inroads of the Chinese and the destructive market hunter soon had their effect upon what seemed to be an inexhaustible supply, and legislation became necessary. Shrimps have now a closed 248 season from May ist to August 1st, and crabs from Sep- tember 1st to October ist, and at no time can a crab measuring less than six inches across the back, be taken. Under the laws of California it is at all times unlawful to buy, sell, offer for sale, barter or trade, at any time, any quail, pheasant, grouse, sage hen, ibis, plover, or any deer meat or deer skins; also to have in possession doe or fawn skins ; to take cr kill at any time does, fawns, elk or antelope ; to take or kill pheasants or bob-white quail ; to run deer with dogs during the closed season ; to shoot half hour before sunrise or half hour after sunset; to trap game of any kind without written permission from the Board of Fish Commissioners; to take or destroy nests or eggs of game birds ; to ship game in concealed packages or without the name and address of the shipper being distinctly marked thereon ; to buy or sell trout less than one-half pound in weight ; to take at any time sturgeon or female crabs ; to take abalones less than fifteen inches in ciraim- ference; to take trout or black bass except with hook and line ; to take salmon, shad or striped bass with a net less than seven and a half inch mesh ; to fish with boat and net without a license; to fish for salmon with nets Satur- day and Sunday; to at any time use a set net; to take fish at any time or in any manner within fifty feet of a fish way ; to take, buy or sell striped bass less than three pounds in weight ; to at any time shoot meadow larks or to shoot on enclosed land without permission of the owner. In addition to the work of protection here outlined, the commission maintains and operates, under the laws of California, numerous fish hatcheries, the principal being at Sisson. What has been accomplished by these hatcheries is best shown by a brief quotation from the last report of the commission, as follows : Our State already ranks high in the matter of fish propa- 249 gation. We desire to maintain that standing. Our work furnishes a cheap food supply to thousands. The poor people of our State are more largely benefited than any other class. In San Francisco our markets are selling food fish every day in the year, at retail, twenty-five per cent, cheaper than they are selling in New York markets at wholesale. In the face of increased demand, our salmon supply is steadily increasing, since artificial propagation began. At the beginning of the present "close season," September lo, there was the largest run of salmon in the Sacramento and San Joaquin Rivers known in ten years. This commission planted four hundred striped bass (fingerlings) near Benicia, in the Straits of Carquinez, some eighteen years ago. We are now marketing, of this delic- ious food fish, about two million pounds per annum in San Francisco. We have brought about the same conditions in the planting of shad. We are planting millions of trout fry annually, which afford not only food, but also healthful sport for thousands of our people. We are devoting more attention to the propagation of Eastern brook trout (fon- tinalis), a most desirable food and game fish, one that will flourish in the smaller streams, especially in the meadows of our high plateaus, where no other trout will remain. We are maintaining and increasing the supply of rainbow trout in the headwaters of the Sacramento and in the Mc- Cloud and Truckee Rivers, three of the famous trout streams of the world, that bring to their attractive banks anglers from all parts of the Union. The planting of black bass has not received the attention it deserves, because of lack of funds. This valuable fish .should be more widely distributed through the barren lakes and reservoirs of the State at the lower elevations, where trout will not flourish, so that a desirable and convenient 250 food supply would be placed within the reach 'ii in.iiiy more of our people. The game laws are practically condensed in the following; Ofycn Season 1903- 1904 — Deer, July 15 to September 15. Doves, July i to February 15. Mountain quail, grouse, sage hen, September I to Feb- ruary 15. Valley Quail, Ducks, Ibis, Curlew, Plover, Rail, October 15 to February 15. Tree squirrels, August i to February i. Trout, April i to November i. Steelhead trout, April i to September 10, and October 16 to February i. Lobster or crawfish, August 15 to April i. (Not less than nine and one-half inches long.) Black bass, July i to January i. Shrimp, September i to Ivlay i. Crab, November i to September i. (No crab taken less than six inches across back.) Fine for violation game laws, $25 to $500, and imprison- ment. Fine for violation fish laws, $20 to $500, and imprison- ment. Smallest fine for using explosives to take any fish, $250, and imprisonment. It is Always Unlazvful To have in possession doe or fawn skins. To take or kill, at any time, does, fawns, elk or antelope. To take or kill pheasants or bob-white quail. To run deer with dogs during the close season. To shoot half hour before sunrise, or half hour after sunset. To take or destroy nests or eggs or game birds. 251 To ship game in concealed packages or without your name and address. Bag Limit — Quail, grouse, snipe, curlew, ibis, plover, twenty-five in one day. Doves, ducks, fifty in one day. Rails, twenty in one day. Deer (male), three in one season. CHAPTER XX. THE OKNlTHOLOOISr IN SOUTHER.V CALIFORNIA. Written especially for this Handbook by Professor Joseph Grinncll, of Tliroop Polytechnic Institution, Pasadena. The ornithologist in Southern California has a field for almost unlimited study. There is a great variation of topography in a small territory, so that he has easy access in a short time to the haunts of the different families of birds. The seashore, the marsh, the prairie, the oak forest, the mesa, the mountain, and the desert, all have their char- acteristic avian inhabitants. Nearly three hundred and fifty species of birds are found in Southern California. To the casual observer in our suburban towns, probably the most noticable is the mocking-bird. This famous singer is common about gardens and 'orchards. It sings from morning till night, and at intervals from evening till morn- ing, as the housewife is willing to testify. She may be an amateur chicken-raiser, and is suddenly awakened in the dead of night by a muffled squaking and peeping. She rushes out, grabbing a broom as she stumbles- down the back stoop, fully expecting to encounter a coyote. But everything is quiet about the coop. There is the peeping again ! But it comes from a mockingbird in the depths of a cypress. The linnet, or house finch, has the same general habits here as the English sparrow in the East. (As yet we are not pestered by the latter bird.) The linnet builds its nest in any convenient nook or vine about the house, and he sings a delightfully rollicking air. He is somewhat dis- liked by the nursery man and fruit grower, as he eats a 253 good deal of fruit and buds, but he also makes away with a great quantity of weed seeds, and this latter advantage to a large extent compensates for the former disadvantage of his presence. Another bird abundant about Southern California towns is the fearless little goldfinch or wild canary, with his sad plaintive note and yellow or green plumage. A pretty cup- shaped nest is built on the leafy bough of some shade tree, often only two or three feet from a frequently-used foot- path. The female lays five light-blue eggs, and is not aided in incubating by the male. The latter spends his time sing- ing, while the female often answers him from the nest with a melancholy twitter of her own. Southern California is comparatively new, so that but few of our native birds have become accustomed to the society of man. To see the bird-life of California one must visit the lonely wildernesses. On the dry, cactus-covered mesas, such as portions of San Fernando Valley, one will find the cactus wren and road-runner at home. The cactus wren is a shy bird with a low wavering note something like the hiss of a snake. The nest is conspicuously placed among the spiney stems of the cactus, about three feet above the ground, as if to taunt with its inaccessibility the expectant marauder. The parent birds know full well that no snake or other animal ever attempts to reach this fortress, they of course not counting on the small boy with a long stick. The nest is a large purse-shaped structure with the entrance in one side. The main materials used are long fine grasses, though the nest-cavity is thickly lined with feathers. Five salmon- colored eggs are laid. The rocky canyon, with its rushing stream and many cascades, affords a home for the water ouzel and canyon wren. The former bird is the very spirit of the ever- 254 phiiijiiiiK I)r<)<>k. lie has a nervous air, and is never con- tented with one perch for a moment. He has a twitchy "bob," or "tilt," which he indulges in at every change of position, this being exceedingly often. The water ouzel lias a hoarse, resounding note which he utters at short in- tervals, as he bounces from rock to rock through the spray at the foot of the falls. His nest is a dome-shaped affair with an opening in one side. It is composed of moss, and is placed on some projecting rock under a waterfall, often where the spray keeps it constantly damp. Four or five white eggs arc laid. The water ouzel, or dipper, as it is sometimes called, is of a plain dark-brown color, and about the sii:e of a robin. The canyon wren has much the same mien as the dipper, l)ut lie is smaller and differently colored. He is bright ■ chestnut-red, with a pure white throat. A number of can- yon wrens arc always to be seen in Rubio Canyon on the Mount Lowe railway where the stairs and walks wind over Ribbon Rock Falls. The nests are placed far up in niches of the canyon-wall. The canyon wren has one of the most beautiful of bird songs. It is a delightful whist- ling melody composed of a series of clear undulating notes, beginning on a high key, and descending regularly to an abrupt low note. The common call-note is harsh but resonant. The vircos compose a family by itself. They are verj' shy and dull-colored, having a dark-green plumage. There- fore they remain quite unnoticed, though abundant, and have no local name. There are four species in Los Angeles County, and there are one or two more in the desert mountains of the southeastern part of the State. The vireos, though so dully colored, are beautiful singers, and one may hear them on every side, but not see a single one. They like thick-foliaged trees such as oaks and alders, and 255 ill these the neat, pensile nest is hung. They dislike to iliave their homes disturhed in the least, and often desert the nests if they are touched. I once found a Least vireo's nest suspended from a twig of the poison oak or sumach, two feet above the ground. The female bird was sitting and I had to make considerable racket to scare her off, without touching the nest. There were only two eggs. Three days later I revisited the nest and the bird was there, but on the ground under the nest were the two eggs, broken. I scared the bird off, and found two other eggs in the nest. The bird seemingly thought that the first two eggs were spoiled because I had looked at them, and so she had flung them out. The Californian thrasher, or, as it is more commonly called, the sickle-billed thrush, is one of our best song birds. It inhabits the foothills and canyon sides, where there is a straggling growth of chaparral. The nest is a large structure composed of coarse sticks, and lined with horse hair. It is placed in a thick low bush. The eggs are three in number, blue, dotted with reddish. The curve- billed thrush is in reality nearly as much of a "mocking- bird" as the one bearing that name. He imitates the cries and songs of other birds, and often intermingles them with his own notes, thus producing a very harmonious song. One day in the spring I was going through a bunch of willows and oaks in an arroyo, when I heard ahead of me two birds singing. At first thought I concluded that they were both thrashers, but on listening again I decided the}' were mock- ingbirds. On stealing through the foliage till I had a full view, I found that one was a mockingbird and the other a Californian thrasher. I stood listening as each bird went through with his particular repertoire. On the whole, I could detect no essential difiference in the songs. But, as a usual thing, the thrasher's song is the softer and prettier 256 of llic two. The Californian tliraslicr is a brownish bird with a long curved bill. Southern California has six species of hummingbirds. All are small with iridescent plumage. Most of the "hum- mers" reside here only in the summer; but one species re- mains throughout the winter also. They build beautiful little nests attached to twigs far out at the extremities of swaying branches. Two white eggs are laid, each less than half an inch in length. The females do all the nest-build- ing, incubating, and even the feeding of the young. The 'hummers" are much more persistent in protecting their homes than the vireos. I will relate one instance. Last February, about the twentieth, I discovered a humming- bird building her nest far out on a horizontal limb of a pepper tree. The nest was finished and in due time con- tained two eggs. The weather had been fine so far, and I fully expected that the bird would be successful in raising her brood. But one day about IMarch first a heavy wind arose. At noon I went out to see how my "hummer" was getting along. I found the nest was becoming much torn. The rim next to the. wind was blown up, and had puffed out over the head of the bird, who was patiently sitting on the eggs. Part of the nest seemed in immediate danger of being torn away. So I sat down awaiting results. A sud- den gust of wind did nearly carry the nest away, but dur- ing the lull that followed the bird flew off to a spider web on the sheltered side of a- hedge. She plucked a few strands, and, returning, commenced to bind the nest down to the limb. This she repeated two or three times before the next gust. I thought that she would keep her home safe after all, and toward evening I again visited the nest. The wind was blowing harder, but every few minutes the hummer would leave the nest for more web. Next morn- ing the wind had died away, and I found her contentedly 257 sittin.E^ on the nest which she had partially rebuilt. Two clays later I noticed that the "hummer" was not on the nest, and after waiting around awhile, I climbed up to it. The eggs were cold and dead, as probably the exposure during the wind while the bird was mending the nest had chilled them beyond restoration. A week later another nest was commenced in a tree near by, and I am glad to say that I last saw the owner, I am sure the same hummingbird, feed- ing the 3'oung, which were fully fledged and flying about. CHAPTER XXI. DRIVING IN SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA. Few countries in the world afford as good opportunities for delightful driving, no matter in what kind of a con- veyance, as Southern California, I have driven thousands of miles over all parts of the State. Of course in the dry summer it is not so pleasant as in the delicious coolness of the winter and spring, when the rains have quenched all of the dust, and all shrubs, trees and vegetable life have renewed their youth and clothed themselves afresh in vernal joyousness. From Los Angeles and Pasadena there are many drives, as for instance, to Santa Monica, Long Beach, San Pedro, Redondo, or any other of the coast-side resorts. In round figures the distances are in the neighborhood of 20 miles, thus keeping the drive well within the compass of a long day's outing. The drives to Baldwin's Ranch, tak- ing in the San Gabrial winery, Alhambra, the Mission, and all the points of interest at Baldwin's, is world-famed. It is also a pleasant drive up to San Fernando Mission. From Pasadena a good drive is through La Canyada to San Fer- nando, or by Eagle Rock and Verdugo to Glendale. I have driven from Pasadena to Warner's Ranch, going by way of Pomona, Claremont, San Bernardino, Redlands to Hemet. Thence into Strawberry' Valley, with a side trip to the great Hemet Dam and lake, over into the Cahuilla Valley where dwells Ramona, then to the Hot Springs by way of Oak Grove. Returning, one may cross the moun- tains into the beautiful Pala Valley and out by San Luis Rey, thence to Oceanside and home by the coast, passing through San Juan Capistrano and San Gabriel. 259 Scores of people annually drive from Los Angeles to the Yosemite Valley, camping out on the way. Others make arrangements beforehand to stop at towns or wayside hotels and thus free themselves from much care of carrying food, bedding and all other needful camping-out equipage. From San Diego there afe many beautiful drives, such as out to the Old Mission around by Pacific Beach to Point Loma, to La Jolla, to Chula Vista and the Sweetwater Dam, The drive into El Cajon Valley and to Lakeside is delight- ful, as is the ride to Warner's Ranch, passing through San- ta Ysabel, where the little brush chapel of the Indians still remains. Riverside has several noted drives as also has Redlands, and Ontario, Pomona, Santa Barbara, Long Beach, Santa Monica and all the rest. Indeed, nowhere in the United States, at least, are there better opportunities offered of climate, scenery, foliage, beauty in floral displays, surround- ings of mountains, foothills, ocean, islands and valleys as here, hence the wise traveler will plan beforehand to de- vote some of his time in this favored land to driving. CHAPTER XXII. I'ETROI.EUM IN SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA. Oil is no new thing to California. Even as early as 1852 Governor Pico distilled oil, and in 1855 Morrell established a plant in Santa Barbara. In 1865 there were sixty-five oil companies, with a nominal capital of $45,000,000 in the State, with stock wliich actually sold as high as $1,000 and $1,500 per share. The earliest practical work, however, was done by the Puente Oil Company, near Puente, Los Angeles Co., and at Newhall. It was in 1892, however, that oil development began with a vigor purely Californian. Oil was discovered that year in Los Angeles, and by 1901 i,3CX) companies had been organized, witli a nominal capital of $400,000,000. There is now no doubt but that the whole of California is a petroleum bed. One portion of Los Angeles residence district has been entirely destroyed by the unsightly oil derricks needed for boring, and travelers visit this section daily, where vast quantities of oil are being pumped up daily. Around the freight depots and yards vast areas are covered with im- mense storage tanks, and passengers on the cars will notice the constant passing of long trains of oil cars and the fact that practically every engine in Southern California burns oil instead of coal. The advantages of this are many. There are no ashes and cinders and the smoke is far less dense and constant. The oil wells at Summerland have been elsewhere referred to. See index. The State Mining Bureau has had its experts in the field, studying the theories of the scientists and collecting every possible kind of facts. The chief of these is Pro- fessor W. L. Watts, to whose several interesting and instructive monographs the curious traveler is referred for further information. A newspaper is also published in Los Angeles devoted to this industry. CALIFORNIA MINERAL PRODUCTS. (Reprinted from Sunset ]Magazine.) State ^lineralogist Lewis E. Anbury reports the yield and value of the mineral substances of California for 1901 as follows, according to returns received at the State Mining Bureau, San Francisco, in answer to inquiries sent to producers : Product. Yield. Value. Antimony 50 $8,350 Asbestos, tons no 4,400 Asphalt, tons 21,364 312,219 Bituminous rock, tons 24,052 66,354 Borax (crude and refined), tons. 22,221 982,380 Cement, tons 71,800 159,842 Chrome, tons 130 i,950 Brick, thousand 130,766 860,488 Pottery, tons 55,679 39,144 Coal, tons 150,724 401,772 Copper, pounds 34-931,785 5,501,782 Fullers' earth, tons 1,000 I9,500 Glass sand, tons 4,500 I5,750 Gold .... 16,989,044 Granite, cubic feet 214,943 519,285 Graphite, tons 64 4,480 Gypsum, tons 3,875 38,750 Lead, pounds 720,500 28,820 dG2 Product. Yield. Value. Lithia mica, tons i.ioo 27,500 Lime, barrels 317,383 334,688 Limestone, tons l(>,^y7 99.445 Macadam, tons 360,883 313,974 Manganese, tons 425 4,405 Magncsite, tons 4,726 43,057 Marble, cubic feet 2,945 4,630 Mineral paint, tons 325 875 Mineral water, gallons 1,555,328 559,057 Natural gas .... 92,034 Paving blocks, thousand 1,920 41,075 Petroleum, barrels 7,710,315 2,961,102 Platinum, ounces 250 3,200 Pyrites, tons 4o78 18,429 Quartz crystals, pounds 4,000 I7,500 Quartz sand, tons 500 500 Quicksilver, flasks 26,720 1,285,014 Rubble, tons 169,513 327.063 Salt, tons 126,218 366,376 Sandstone, cubic feet 226,741 192,132 Serpentine, cubic feet 89 890 Soda, tons 8,000 400,000 Silver 1,229,356 Slate, squares 5,ioo 38,25c Soapstone, tons 10 119 Tourmaline, pounds 500 20,oor Turquoise, pounds 500 20,000 Total $34,355,981 In 1900 the total product was valued at $32,622,945. so that the increase for 1901 is $1,733,036. The mineral production of California for the fifteen years 203 from 1887 to 1901 is as follows, as compiled especially for Sunset from the records of the State Mining Bureau by Professor G. E. Bailey: Product. Amount. Antimony, tons 680 Asbestos, tons 582 Asphalt, tons 189,323 Bituminous rock, tons.. 563,538 Borax, tons 123,536 Cement, tons 116,576 Chrome .... Brick, thousand 932,824 Pottery, tons 867,352 Coal, tons 1,557,582 Copper, pounds 136,464,680 Fullers' earth, tons .... 2,120 Gold Granite .... Graphite, tons 64 Gypsum, tons 41,094 Infusorial earth, tons. . 145 Iron ore, tons 450 Lead, tons 7,266 Lithia mica, tons 1,664 Lime and limestone. ... .... Macadam, tons 4,186,435 Magnesite, tons 22,867 Manganese, tons 7,730 Marble Mineral paint, tons .... 6,221 Mineral water, gallons. 14,047,814 Natural gas .... No. of Years Value. Retrns. 79,805 II 27,800 13 2,919.964 15 2,044,173 15 10,458,649 15 789,248 10 304,750 12 6,111,005 9 674,279 15 4,069,548 15 19,788,337 15 35,650 4 213,990,369 15 7,885,185 15 4,480 I 361,096 15 5,575 4 3,500 3 552,467 15 43,100 4 5,210,070 15 3,336,125 10 228,786 15 69,646 15 671,282 15 100,035 12 3,835480 IS 870,402 14 264 No. of Years Product. Amount. Value. Retrns. Onyx 91,400 10 Paving blocks .... 72,71 1 9 Petroleum, barrels 25,323.307 22,375,808 15 Platinum, ounces 3,3(^7 18,501 15 Pyrites, tons 19,620 98,182 4 Quartz crystals .... 35,500 2 Quicksilver, flasks .... 434,977 17,918,249 15 Rubble, tons 3,344,941 3,124,771 9 Salt, tons 809,080 2,225,576 15 Sand glass, tons 10,200 21,950 4 Sandstone .... 1,574,381 15 Serpentine, cubic feet. . 9,689 20,390 7 Silver .... 12,531,466 15 Slate, squares 32,860 207,739 13 Soapstone, tons 435 18,244 3 Soda, tons 37,430 1,096,500 8 Sulphur, tons 2 50 i Tin, pounds 287,289 59,964 2 Tourmaline .... 20,500 2 Turquoise, pounds .... 1,000,000 40,000 2 Total $346,023,688 CHAPTER XXIII. BEES FOR PROFIT IN SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA. By Bertha H. Smith. Extracted from "Sunset" Magazine, August, 1903. There is hardly a hillslope of Southern California but boasts its few colonies of bees. The more favored places, those where sage thickets bloom and other wild flowers grow in profusion, have carefully tended apiaries of sev- eral hundred colonies. Thanks to superior natural advan- tages, California has become the leading honey-producing section, not only of this country, but of the world. Bee culture is a typical California industry. Its simplicity appeals to the leisure-loving spirit of the true Californian, who finds in it not only an easy way of making a living, but the fullest opportunity for leading an outdoor life. During eight months of the year, from the last of July until the first of April, there is little for the bee-keeper to do. One man can give necessary care to two hundred colonies by working one or two days a week. Except in especially dry and unfortunate years the bees can always find honey enough for food throughout the en- tire winter season. This is perhaps the chief advantage California offers, for in all other sections it is necessary to feed bees during that time. When the early winter rains have changed the summer browns to green and spread the hills with a first bright carpet of wild flowers, there is increased activity among the busy bees. The foraging workers bustle importantly into lIu' hive with uncommonly large loads, after having been gone but a little time ; the home-keepers present their queen 266 with a larger supply of royal food; and her majesty, in grateful response, increases her efforts from the laying of a few hundred eggs a day to the busy season number of three or four thousand. Then the wise bee-keeper provides himself with new hives and equipment for the swarms which will shortly ap- pear. Early in April a swarming fever seizes upon the bees, and work has begun in earnest for the bee man. Every bright day will call out from one to fifteen swarms. The bees pour in a dark stream from the hive, and make for some camping spot selected by their advance agents. Usual- ly they cluster upon a well-trimmed tree which the apiarist has reserved for that purpose near the apiary. The hive in common use is a two-story affair. The two boxes contain ten frames each, which the bees fill with comb as they need it. The lower box is the brood chamber and contains the queen, her dutiful and attentive court, and the nurse bees. Surrounding the queen is a commissary detachment of workers, who supply her with a partly digested and very rich food. In three days the egg hatches into a worm-like bit which must be fed. The nurse bees keep the babies warm and feed them a mixture of honey and pollen. Meanwhile, other workers are scurrj-ing among the flow- ers, sipping the perfumed sweets. The nectar clings to tiny hairs on the honey-gathering tool, which is rolled to the mouth, the nectar passing into a first stomach, the honey bag. There it changes from nectar to honey. Returning to the hive with a load, the bee reverses the gathering pro- cess, leaving the honey in a food cell. Some of the am- bitious fellows bring in a double load, both honey and pol- len, and drop at the hive entrance, staggering witli the weight. In former davs the bee was allowed to make the entire 267 cell as well as the honey ; but as it takes twenty-five pounds of honey to make one pound of wax, the bee man has learned to make the foundations for the cell work and place them in frames for the bees. This foundation is a thin layer of pure beeswax with each side stamped with the little six-sided cell foundation. Some bee-keepers fill but half the frame with foundations, leaving the other half for the bees to finish. The up-to-date bee-keeper prevents over swarming by providing his colonies with ample room and foundations for building comb, for food and for honey storing. The upper part of the hive is the store house. When the bees begin to fill it, the bee-keeper must get his honey house ready for use. Once a week the bees have their treasure house full of stolen gold, and just that often must the bee man rob it. Three men can do the work of two hundred colonies. . All day long one man, veiled and gloved, goes with a wheelbarrow from hive to hive. First giving the bees a puff of smoke to improve their manners, he takes the cover from the upper box and removes the frames of honey. These he places in a box on the barrow and takes to the nearby honey house. There the frames are hung across a long, zinc-lined box on legs, and a man with a sharp two-edged knife makes a deft stroke on each side of the comb, re- moving the cell cover. This wax and a little honey fall into the box and are drained into a tub. The honey is then strained and put into the honey tank, while the wax is melted and saved for making new foundations or for mar- ket. The uncapped frames of honey are put into the extractor. This is a circular affair in which the frames of honey are revolved by a hand crank, the circular motion causing the honey to fly out of the cells against the sides. The honey 268 drains from the extractor, is strained and placed in large tanks, where it stands for a few days to ripen. After the watery liquid has risen to the top and been skimmed off the honey is put into cans for shipment. The frames with tiicir empty cells are returned to the hives to be filled again with honey and capped by the bees. From the middle of May to the end of July there is no break in this bee ranch routine. Fifteen pounds of honey per week during the best part of the season and ten during the remainder will be taken from each colony ; and from two hundred colonies the ten weeks' yield of honey is frorn fif- teen to thirty thousand pounds, which at from four to six cents per pound nets a neat profit with small investment and little labor. In fact, the percentage of profit is very great as an apiary of two hundred colonies of bees in good condi- tion is worth about one thousand dollars. CHAPTER XXIV. A FEW MINOR INDUSTRIES. Of the major industries of California little need be written in this handbook. They have been well described in a hundred publications devoted especially to them. Grain, fruit, lumber, mineral, wine, and other industries are well known. This chapter is to suggest some of the won- derful variety of possibilities Southern California affords in lesser fields. Pampas Flumes. — At Santa Barbara, Whittier, etc., pam- pas plumes are grown for profit. The plant is a hardy one, growing in masses or hills, and sometimes attains the height of twenty feet, with a diameter equally large, with a weight of a full ton. The plants are produced from seed, or by dividing the female plants — those that grow the plumes. Young plants of two or three years of age pro- duce the best plumes. They are trimmed early in Sep- tember, before the plumes appear. When cut, the husk is removed and the plumes are then spread in long rows on the drying ground, where they remain for about three days, being turned and shaken daily. They are then packed away in the drying sheds, where they remain for ten days to two weeks, when they are graded, packed and sent to market. The market value is about $14.00 per thousand. Groiving Tannic Plants and Trees. — The rapid exhaus- tion of the trees whose bark has hitherto been used for tanning has demanded the discovery of substitutes. One of the best of these is canaigre, or tanners' dock. For two centuries its tanning qualities have been known and appre- ciated in Mexico, yet, though it is indigenous to California, it is but recently it has been grown and utilized to any 270 cxtciU. IL grows wild throughout the whole of Southern California and can easily and readily be domesticated. It does best on low, sandy and gravelly soils near rivers or water courses. The plant rises from one to three feet high, and the roots grow in clusters of three or four. It stands drought like cactus, remaining dormant for several seasons and then growing again. The old roots are black and rich in tannic acid. Three tons of green root will make one of dry, and thus yields half a ton of extract, holding from sixty to sixty-five per cent, of tannin. There is great scope for this industry in Southern California for intelligent and patient farmers. The wattle (acacia) gives a bark that is twice as rich in tannin as oak bark. That shipped from Australia com- mands a price of from $32 to $42 per ton. Much arid land in Southern California could well be utilized by growing these tannin bearing acacias. The wood- will find a ready market and the bark also. Reptile a)id Insect Souvenirs — To call this an industry may seem peculiar to manj-, yet it is a great source of revenue to many people. It requires from five to eight or even ten thousand horned toads to meet the Pasadena de- mand alone. It is not difficult to catch them. They are peaceable and oflfer no resistance and are perfectly harmless. The largest specimens are often six to eight inches from head to the tip of the scraggy tail, while the smallest are but an inch long. They vary in color, those found on the Mohave Desert being lighter than those of darker ground. They are a mottled brown and tan, while the stomach is an ochre yellow. Put in a jar, chloroformed, cut open, thoroughly cleansed, cured with a preparation of arsenic, stuffed with sawdust (the tails and legs with cotton), put aside to cure for two months, mounted and offered for sale is their histor>'. 271 The scientific name of the horned toad is phrynosoma, or crowned tapayain. Gathering TaranUdas, etc., for Souvenirs. — Mrs. Helen Lukens Jones, in Sunset, says gathering curious insects by tlie thousand, putting them through a process of taxidermy and merchandising them for the edification of curiosity seekers, is one of the most unique developments of Hfe in the far west. The headquarters of this remarkable industry is located in Pasadena, California, and from an unpretentious and entirely experimental beginning several years ago, the business has expanded into immense proportions, over ten thousand bugs, insects and snakes are disposed of each year, yet the demand exceeds the supply. From early spring till late fall this strange craft is in the height of activity, and a whole year's accumulation of re- pellant nature creatures are harvested, the crop being dried and stored quite as seriously and carefully as fruit and grain are prepared for market. The stock in trade con- sists of centipedes, scorpions, tarantulas, tarantula hawks, trap-door spiders, horned toads and rattlesnakes, the skin of the latter being used for belts, purses and various other things supposed to enhance the charm of the feminine toilet. The work of collecting these formidable bugs is usually turned over to the small boys of Southern California, who enter into the spirit of the chase with great enthusiasm, for it means a jaunt in the vine-tangled, rock-piled bed of the arroyo seco, where centipedes and scorpions hide in damp shadows, a pilgrimage over foothills, through luxuriant meadows, or into canyon depths where rattlesnakes bask on the sun-warmed boulders, or a tramp across the wild flower fields where horned toads play hide and seek among the blossoms. Late in summer these youngsters animate the sun-scorched adobe areas where tarantulas wade through 272 tlic liot black (lust, and tarantula bawks skim through the air in search of prey. Besides the actual pleasures of an expedition, the financial proceeds are considerable, for an active boy can easily catch from fifty to one hundred bugs a day. The lads get five cents each for centipedes, and about two cents each for tarantulas, horned toads, scor- pions and tarantula hawks. The trap-door spiders bring considerably more, while rattlesnakes are worth from fifty cents to one dollar and a half, according to the size and quality of the skin. There are certain seasons for gathering bugs as well as for harvesting fruit, and in March, April and May the centipede crop is reaped. The young hunter's artillery consists of a pair of home-made wooden pinchers about eighteen inches in length, and a five-gallon oil can with the top thrown half open. Centipedes in captivity have a moral antipathy for one another, killing and eating their own kind with the most unscrupulous abandonment. To avoid complete destruction of the catch, the boys line the bottoms of their cans with scraps of paper, and into this rustling heap the worms are placed, the paper forming barricades that effectually separate the enemies. The search for centipedes is carried on systematically, and the rock clothing of Mother Earth is tossed about and disheveled with a most deliberate unconcern. No stone or boulder is passed without being rolled over, unless it is too big and obstinate for the youngsters to manage. Sometimes three or four small boys will pull and tug at an immense rock, while another stands in readiness to nab the astonished centipede with his pinchers. Uniting their efforts they make the adamant boulder fairly stand on its haunches. Underneath, on the damp, cool earth, the youth- ful hunters find myriads of creeping, crawling things, and it is in such places that the largest centipedes are found. 273 California centipedes are from six to eight inches in length, and average fort3'-two legs and twenty-one seg- ments. Each leg is terminated by a formidable brown thorn, and if the worm is angered he simultaneously thrusts every thorn into the flesh of his victim, causing excruciat- ing pain. The effect is that of having a red-hot needle drawn over the skin, and the crimson markings caused by the poisonous feet do not dim in hue for many months. The weapons that do the most mischief, however, are formed from the second pair of feet, which are modified into a pair of powerful claws, terminated by 'a sharp, strong hook in each side, which are perforated and traversed by a little channel leading from the poison gland. These claws come together under the flesh with a hold so tenacious that the centipede sometimes has to be torn to pieces before he will loosen his grip. When the boys arrive at the shop in Pasadena, after a prosperous hunt, their cans brimming with the wriggling harvest, the worms are removed and immersed in chloro- form, some other liquid being added to keep them from turning black. The trap-door spiders, though exceedingly poisonous, are undoubtedly the most clever and intelligent of the anthro- pods. Large num.bers of these interesting specimens are gathered every year and mounted on cards along with their silk-lined homes. These spider abodes are marvelous es- tablishments, the construction of which would puzzle a human architect. They average six or eight inches in depth, are circular in form and about one inch in diameter. They are lined and padded with white silken web, and are secured from intrusion by a snug-fitting door, which, when danger threatens, is hurriedly pulled shut and held fast by the muscular arms of the spider. During the tarantula season, including the months of July, August and September, small hoys in cotton sliirl- and jumpers dot the foothills and dry fields like punctua tion marks, all intent upon capturing these dangerous liugs. The intrepid youth has fitted himself out with tin cans and glass jars with covers, a pail of water and a pair of pinch- ers. Some of the boys are more elaborately equipped for the business, being supplied with long steel pinchers and a box especially made for storing spiders, with small parti- tions and tightly fitting cover. Tarantulas live almost exclusively in uncultivated adobe areas, where the soil is black, corresponding in color to their dusky hue, and they can prowl about with less fear of being discovered by their enemies. The location of a tarantula's home is always indicated by a white, silken web that outlines the rim of the hole, and if for any reason the spider moves into new quarters he in- variably removes the web from the doorway of the old home when he departs. If the boys do not discover their prey running at large, they look about for the spider estab- lishments. When they find them they pour in a quantity of cold water, giving Mr. and Mrs. spider an impromptu bath that quite upsets the equilibrium of their domestic affairs and they rush above ground to discover the cause of the disturbance. Here their reception is unpropitious, for they are immediately grabbed by the pinchers and placed in prison, there to await their doom. Like the centipedes, they fight in captivity and must be kept apart. These tarantulas are of the species Mygale avicularia, and in size are immense, sometimes covering a space as large as a man's hand. They are formidable and courageous fighters, capable of overcoming enemies several times their size. There is one enemj', however, of which they stand in mortal terror, and that is the pompilidae, more commonly known as the tarantula hawk. It is a huge wasp, two inches 2/5 long, with bright blue body and golden wings. When it darts from boulder to leaf it is a brilliant speck of life, glittering, iridescent and translucent as a sunbeam. It keeps up an incessant buzzing caused by the vibration of its wings, and is a gray tormenter, darting close, then tak- ing an upward flight and seeming to laugh at the spider's discomforture. At last, tiring of the play, she strikes the fatal blow, then retires to a near-by boulder to watch de- velopments. The poison paralyzes but does not kill the spider, and when he is still, the wasp drags him to some subterranean burrow and deposits an egg on his back. Then covering her victim with a layer of dirt, she gives a buzz of satisfaction and leaves the embryo to develop. The prospective w^asp makes its first appearance in the world as a grub, and until it undergoes a transformation and be- comes large enough to battle with life, it feeds on the carcass of the spider on which it was hatched. The mother wasp never deposits but one egg at a time, and so in order to propagate and raise her numerous progeny she must necessarily reap a big harvest of tarantulas. The taxidermist kills the spiders by emptying them into a tub of gasolene and turpentine. Chloroform is sometimes used, but is objectionable because it loosens the fuzz of the spider, which if dropped on the hands often causes an irri- tation of the skin. Long pinchers are invariably used to handle the bugs, and under no conditions are they touched with the hands. When these gruesome anthropoids have passed through the process of taxidermy, they are pinned on boards and placed in the sun to dry, just like so many trays of raisins. When they are sufficiently cured they are mounted on cards, or arranged under glass paper weights, those on cards ranging in price from twenty-five to fifty cents, according to the size and quality of the specimen, while the paper weights retail at seventy-five cents each. 276 Sardines. — Sardines swarm off the shores of Southern Qilifornia being found in great numbers. It is part of the Ixjunty of heaven bestowed upon this favored region — a provision of Nature for the teeming population that will shorth- fill our fat valleys. And this little slippery denizen of our mild Pacific is genuine. Maine has its sardine fisheries, but the catch is only a small herring or a young menhaden. The English coast has the sprat which passes for a sardine, but is not. The chientific name of the sardine is clupca pilchardus and the sprat is clupca spratliis. The sardine has scales, while the sprat has a smooth skin and is entirely innocent of scales. It belongs to the same family as the shad, her- ring and pilchard. Our sardine is neither sprat nor men- haden. It is Simon pure, as genuine as the article we ex- port from Mediterranean shores, and it is packed moreover in pure olive oil, a product from our own orchards. The cannery at San Pedro has been established about ten years and is large enough to handle one hundred and forty tons every month. A small vessel called the Alpha flits with white wings up and down the coast, ranging not far in anj- direction, per- haps not over thirty miles. A favorite feeding ground is Catalina Island, and fifty tons have been estimated in one school. Over against Catalina, in the placid Bay of Avalon, famous for its giant tuna and hosts of yellowtail, perhaps the best and most prolific and exciting fishing grounds in the world, the sardine are found in great numbers. "The more we catch, the more there appears to be." the crew of the Alpha say, and they limit their catch only by their ability to pack and dispose of them. The net used is what is known as a purse seine, and is seven hundred feet long by fifty feet deep. It holds about thirty thousand pounds, 277 and is almost carried away at times by the weight and rush of the finny tribe. Deposited in the great packing house, built out toward deep water on piles, the fish are spread out on tables and carefully cleaned. After washing in several waters they are transferred to wire screens to dry. They are then placed in huge wire baskets and cooked in hot cotton seed oil. This is then carefully drained off, and our picnic and luncheon delicacy is packed for shipment in pure olive oil. The cooking is not yet finished, however, for after packing closely and pouring oil into the interstices, they are sub- jected to a final steaming, the last drop of solder is added, and the cans are ready for the label and the market. The oil is absolutely pure, a product of California orchards and mills, and the cans are made in the port where the fish are packed. Many girls and women are employed in dressing and pack- ing, as they are found to be neat and skilful and quick fingered. The sardines are graded in size and in their preparation. There are quarter-pound cans and two-pound cans, the smallest and the largest. The chief difficulty met with is to find the small or medium sizedfish, the over- growth of the little fellow being perhaps a California habit. Sardines are believed to reach their greatest size at two years of age. About forty tons are handled every week, this meaning one thousand cases of one hundred cans each. This enter- prise, which began modestly and without any blowing of horns, has grown steadily, and now distributes its output in nearly every part of the country. Chicago, Boston, New York and other cities furnish a growing market. There is room for great enlargement of the business. So far as the quantity of fish is concerned there is no reason why a dozen more canneries should not !)e in operation on our coast. — A. J. JJ'ells, in Sunset. 278 Squab Raising. — With ten thousand pigeons and two acres of river bottom an enterprising Los Angeles, Cali- fornian, man is making a fortune at squab raising, says Bertha II. Smith, in Sunset. This ranch supplies practically all the squabs used in San Francisco and Los Angeles during the entire year. The farm is novel enough to be worth a visit, but for- tunately for both the pigeons and their keeper, it is some- what off the beaten track of the tourist, being hidden away behind a hill in a rather inaccessible angle of the Los An- geles River, and the arroyo seco that skirts Los Angeles and Pasadena. The owner of the ranch does not court sightseers, as pigeons are not fend of strangers, and there is no inclosure to prevent their leaving home at any time. The raising of squabs for market is a ticklish business. More than one man has tried it and failed. The growth of this ranch, which started three years ago with a stock of two thousand birds, shows what pigeons think of Cali- fornia climate, and that is one of the secrets of its success. The pigeons live entirely in the open except when they are hatching. All day long, and all night, too, they perch upon the roofs of sheds built for nesting places, flying about only to pick their food from the ground or go for a drink or a bath to shallow pools in the broad and but partly used river bed. The endless cooing and whir of wings makes a strange sound that can be heard at a great distance. There are eight sheds, each with tier upon tier of fruit boxes converted into rooms just big enough for two. The boxes must not be too new. The birds seem to dislike the look and odor of now boards, and the boxes, are allowed to stand around in the weather until the newness is worn off. In the mating season there is a general rush of house- hunting. The male bird takes possession of a place that suits him, and having settled himself proceeds to spend 279 much time in the doorway preening his coat and trying to attract the attention of house-hunters of the other sex. When one seems to take notice he coaxes her in, only to whip her out again in a most inhospitable, not to say un- loverlike manner. This he repeats three or four times; and if the female bird shows the necessary persistence, he finally yields and allows her to stay. If she resents this masculine rudeness, he lets her go and begins putting his best feathers forward for another; while she, nursing a justifiable resentment, flies away in answer to the love- notes of another householder. Once mated, these birds set a fairly good example of domestic life. The male helps build the nest, and shares the responsibility of the family by taking a turn at sitting on the nest. About nine o'clock in the morning the female leaves her nest, and the male goes on for an hour or two while the female picks up a breakfast and stretches her wings a bit. About every forty days the hens lay a nest of eggs, usually two. It requires about eighteen days to hatch them; and in from three weeks to twenty-five days the squabs are ready for market. Two hundred and fifty dozen a month is a fair average, the only appreciable falling ofif in the number being at moulting time, which is three months in the fall. Then there are only about one fourth as many squabs. Two dollars a dozen is the usual market price, and the demand for them is always equal to the supply. Sometimes a slight difference in the demand is noticeable in quail season. The feeding of ten thousand pigeons is no small item. It costs between $200 and $250 a month. The daily allow- ance is a wagonload of screenings, two sacks of wheat, about twelve gallons of boiled meat; and once a week three barrels of stale bread soaked in water. 28o Tliis liberal food supply is a guarantee against desertion by members of the flock ; and it often tempts strange pigeons to leave a roving life and fettle down here to find ease and plenty. Boys and rats are the chief concern of the man who owns the ranch. Six watch dogs help to keep tlie boys away, while eternal vigilence and rat traps serve to keep the place clear of rats. Two men are kept busy all the time skinning squabs and preparing them for market. These are the only assistants required by the owner, unless the six dogs and one horse are counted. This is the entire equipment of this, the largest pigeon ranch in the world. Turkey Raising. — There are a thousand and one places in Southern California where this industry can be carried on by a poor man or woman. On the foothill region the Spanish poleo, a kind of mullein, grows abundantly. It is a small, harsh, unlovely plant, with prickly capsules. These are full of farinaceous seeds, upon \vhich the young turkeys feed greedily. There are also crickets, bugs and grass- hoppers'. With a small cabin and a few simple accessories one may soon have a large flock of turkeys, for which there is a constant market at a good price. Celery. — In Orange County celery growing has become a remarkably profitable venture. In 1890 D. E. Smelzer, of Kansas City, and E. A. Curtis tried it in the almost useless peat lands. At first the experiments were failures. Then eighty acres were planted at a cost of $6,000 and j'ielded a profit. The bog was drained by a big ditch, each field having a smaller ditch. The peat is of vegetable origin, consisting of roots and fibres in every stage of decomposi- tion, from natural wood in the first stage of decay to the clear, black vegetable mould. The land was bought from the "Swamp Angels," who cut the peat for fuel, at $10 per acre. It is now worth twenty times that. The ploughing 28 1 is done by heavy horses wearing large wooden shoes about a foot and a half square, which prevent them from miring. These are fastened on by strong iron clamps. The celery is started in seed-beds and transplanted, when grown to the proper size, in rows about four feet apart. It is cut in October and marketed all through the winter. The average output is ten carloads a day for several months. It is shipped from Nova Scotia to South America, from Victoria to New York and Boston. These are a few of the novel minor industries of Southern California, and there are many others that the intelligent and observant traveler will discover for himself. CHAPTER XXV. FROM THE COLOKADO RIVER TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN ON THE SOUTHERN PACIFIC. A writer in The Cosmopolitan Magazine says that: "The Southern Pacific Company is organized under the laws of Kentucky. It embraces, by construction, or lease or purchase, nineteen distinct railway concerns, and gener- ally speaking, as appears from the map, four divergent lines of road — one from Ogden to San Francisco, a dis- tance of 875 miles; the second, from New Orleans to San Francisco, 2,492 miles; the third, from Portland, Oregon, to San Francisco, 772 miles ; the fourth, from Spofford, Texas, to Durango, Mexico, 521 miles; and besides these forty-four smaller branches and connections along the main lines, the grand total of track aggregating 6,782 miles. "In addition to these railroads, the company also owns and controls steamship lines covering water routes of 7,276 miles, making a grand total of 14,058 miles. "Tlie Southern Pacific road, from San Francisco to El Paso, through Arizona and New Mexico, was built directly by the magnates of the Central Pacific Company — Stanford, Huntington, Crocker and Hopkins — and embraces 2,055 miles." From El Paso the company purchased the Morgan, Lou- isiana and Texas R. R., which reaches to New Orleans, and which carried with it the Morgan line of steamers from Galveston and New Orleans to New York. Suppose the traveler is coming to Southern California on this Southern Pacific line from New Orleans. As soon as he reaches Yuma, on the Colorado River, he can direct his attention to our "Land of the Sun Down Sea." 283 YUMA: Population, 1,000, estimated. Elevation, 140 feet, S. P. Survey. To Los Angeles, 250 miles. To San Francisco, 734 miles. To New Orleans, 1,757 miles. Yuma itself is fascinating in quaint old picturesqueness, but Arizona has the honor of its possession. Yuma is situated on the Colorado River, just below its confluence with the Gila. Few people can realize, as they gaze upon the Colorado River at Yuma, that were it not for the enormous amount of absorption by evaporation as this river journeys through the arid, desert lands, and the porous sand for hundreds of miles along its banks, it would have quite as large a volume, and be as majestically flowing a river as the Columbia. Here one will meet with the Yuma Indians, who hold a large territory of excellent bottom land along the Rio Colorado. Its hotels are : Southern Pacific, capacity 25, $2.50 per day, $12.00 per week, L. F. Laeger; Gandolfo, capacity 30, $1.50 to $3.00 per day, C. D. Baker. Here are the Territorial penitentiary, and on the Cali- fornia side is Old Fort Yuma, now used as the U. S. Indian School, Superintendent, J. S. Spear, with a large corps of teachers and agency physicians. Below Yuma, five miles, a large tract of land was re- cently thrown open to settlement. It is already well under cultivation and has a growing population. From Yuma north for some distance the country is dry, flat and sandy, the only feature in the landscape at all worthy of notice being the purple hills far away to the west, and the mirage-haunted plains between. There are great snowy windrows of sand, sea-washed and clean, that glisten in their rounded, windswept dunes, 284 rcnmaiilb of the ancient sea that once occupied this great basin. There seems little doubt but that the Gulf of California formerly extended to the neighborhood of San Gorgonio Pass, which was cut off by the detritus of the Colorado River, or some of the other slow, silent forces of Nature, leaving a great body of salt water, 150 miles long, by forty to fifty miles wide. This residue of brine, for some in- comprehensible reason, retained an existence as an inland sea for some time, finally drying up, leaving bodies of salt. OGILBY; To Los Angeles, 234 miles. To San Francisco, 718 miles. To New Orleans, 1,773 miles. Is the mining station for an important mining district, Hedges, a large mining camp, being but a few miles away. This section has bright prospects which are in a fair way for realization. The traveler is now well in the heart of the Colorado Desert. Paul Shoup has beautifully w-ritten of it: "Vaguely described as 'The Desert,' the wilderness be- tween the mountains and the Colorado River has many points of interest all its own. It is a desert w-ith the treas- ures of King Solomon's jMines ; it is a desert with more salt of the earth than any other in the world ; it is a desert with oases that have the atmosphere of life; it is a desert w-ith mountains miles high and basins tw'O hundred feet below the surf of the Pacific ; it is a desert of sand and yet of luxuriant vegetation; it is a desert so unique in both animal and vegetable life as to be of endless interest. Plere lives the sand terrapin, almost a counterpart of the common mud-turtle, but an absolute teetotaler. Water to him is an unknown quality that no algebraist could make him appreciate the value of. Yet the turtle veed that grows 285 in baked sand in the fierce direct and refracted rays of the sun, with moisture neither in air nor land, gathers within its leaf a drop of water. Tiny rabbits frisk about under- neath the mesquite tree — a tree, liy the way, that in the desert, springing from one stem, buries its limbs in the sand, whence it grows again, forming an almost impene- trable chaparral. Miniature quail, too, live in this arid land. Long reefs that may be traced for miles mark sea level on the sides of the basins, shells that were once of the ocean lying amid a wilderness of sand. Cacti of fantastic forms, volcanic creations of curious shapes, bare, gaunt mountains, levels of seemingly endless sand, with which the winds play, and where sudden thunder storms break violently — these are of the desert." OLD BEACH: To Los Angeles, 188 miles. To San Francisco, 672 mile.s. To New Orleans, 1,819 miles. This is the junction point for the new region, known as The Imperial Country. The history of this region reads like a romance. Under an arrangement with the United States and Mexican Governments, the California Develop- ment Co. and the Imperial Land Co. organized for the pur- pose of conveying water from the Colorado River to vast tracts of land and aiding colonists to settle upon them. In four or five years the results have been nothing less than marvelous. During the season of 1903, there were under cultivation 50,000 acres of land, and the population in the valley was conservatively estimated at 4,000. It is now known that about 125,000 acres will he cultivated during 1904, and that probably 100,000 acres of this area will be devoted to wheat and barley, which is expected to yield an average of one ton of grain to the acre, giving a total yield of 100,000 tons, or 10,000 carloads. 286 Under proper rrmdilions this land is very fertile. It i*^ essentially a grain and stock country. Alfalfa can he cut six to eight times each season, yielding from one to two tons of cured hay per acre at each cutting. Wheat, harley, milo maize, sorghum, kaffir corn and millet grow excel- lently. These make the region unsurpassed for cattle and hog raising, which hring good prices in Los Angeles. Seedless sultanas, the date of commerce, sugar beets, rice and early vegetables also do well. IMPERIAL: To Los Angeles, 216 miles. To San Francisco, 700 miles. To New Orleans, 1,791 miles. This was the first town started in the Imperial Valley in 1901. It is now incorporated, has a bank, brick blocks, newspaper, water system, telephone, ice plant and no saloons. Nine miles north of Imperial, on the Imperial branch of the Southern Pacific, is BRAWLEY. This town has already become well established. It has many good buildings erected and in process of erection, including a large hotel — the largest in the Valley, a bank building in which has been established a bank, several business houses, and a number of residences. The house? are mostly made of adobe, and they are pronounced the finest adobe buildings to be found on the coast. The town of Brawley is backed by 17,500 acres of Im- perial Water Companj'^ No. 4, all of which is taken by settlers, 20,000 acres of Imperial Water Company No. 5. 10,000 acres of which have been taken by settlers, and 40,000 acres of No. 8, over half of which is already taken by settlers. In order to show what the projectors expect I quote from their circular about other towns. 287 "Calcxico is a busy town on the United States side of the boundary line, just east of Cameron Lake, and a town is laid out on the Mexican side of the line just south of and adjoining Calexico, to be known a.s Mexicali. Calexico has a post office, and it is the headquarters of the California Development Company. "Silsbee is to become the pleasure resort for the entire Valley, as well as a business center, for the country to the southwest of Imperial. It is located on the east shore of Blue Lake, a beautiful sheet of water that is well stocked with fish. The lake is surrounded by mesquite trees, and around the lake has been laid out a drive that will be well shaded. "A new town to be known as Hchcr will be located about midway between Imperial and Calexico, as soon as the railroad is definitely located betw-een those two points. "The town of Eastside, to be located in the southern por- tion of township 15 south, range 15 east, will be platted at once, and thus a business center will be created on the east side of Alamo River, east of the town of Imperial." There are now five school districts in the Imperial Val- ley, having a total of 370 school children last June. These districts are known as Imperial, Calexico, Silsbee, Brawley and Eastside. The Imperial District has voted $10,000 bonds with which to build school houses. Arrangements are being made to vote additional school bonds as follows : Calexico, for two school .houses, $3,000; Brawley, $2,500; Silsbee, $1,500; and Eastside, $1,500. This shows that the people are making arrangements to educate their children and develop a higher civilization equal to the best sections of the State. Returning now to the main line, the next place of im- portance to be reached is 288 Sy\LTON ; To Los Angeles, 155 miles. To San Francisco, 637 miles. To New Orleans, 1,851 miles. Cactus, the name of the mere stopping place 75 miles furtlier back, is 395 feet above sea level, and Salton is 263 feet below. Here, for fifteen miles square, the earth is covered with a layer of salt from four inches to a foot thick. The first glimpse — and many another glimpse — fails to reveal to you that it is anything but a large lake, and you wonder at its brilliant, dazzling surface. The salt works — houses and sheds — appear as if a visual fiction — a mirage — or per- haps as if built on piles, or suspended in the air by some magic means. It is common to find the mercury here as high as 105 degrees Fahrenheit in the shade and even ten degrees higher, and, in the full sun's rays 130 degrees and 140 degrees and even 150 degrees and, singular to say, the workmen in this unique harvest field, toiling laboriously for ten hours a day, do not suflfer so much from the heat as many workmen in the Illinois or Kansas corn and grain fields. The salt is almost pure and undergoes no refining processes. It is "harvested" by steam power, the plough cutting a furrow eight feet in width. Seven hundred tons a day are thus scraped up, ground and sacked ready for market. But to gaze on this salt ocean during the daytime is ex- ceedingly trying on the eyes, and blue or green spectacles — goggles — are necessary to preserve the eyes of the on- looker from. pain. But the Indians despise all such outward aids, the only eye-preserver they use being a little mud or axle grease which they smear under the lozccr eyelashes. Whence comes all this salt? There arc numerous springs throughouly impregnated 289 with pure chlorine in the adjacent foothills and this water flowing into the salt sea quickly evaporates and leaves a fresh layer of salt. Similar works exist near the Pyramid Lake in Nevada, but there, instead of nature supplying the salt water in springs, it has to be pumped out from wells. The aseptic properties of this atmosphere, impregnated by the chlorine gases constantly arising in the process of evaporation, can be well understood, and, although the distinct traces of it are lost ere it reaches the orange groves on the other side of the mountains, the purifying properties are still retained and do their share in the manufacture of our healthful Southern California climate. TJie Saltan Sea. — In the year 1891, on the 23d day of June, a large volume of water was discovered flowing into the Salton Basin some thirty miles south of the salt works. At first it was supposed this flow was caused by cloud- bursts, which, at certain seasons of the year are not in- frequent in a region still further away, but, as the water increased in volume and flowed steadily this supposition was abandoned. A new theory was advanced owing to the cessation, about that time, of the flow of one of the large artesian wells at Indio, twenty miles away, and it was assumed that the underground stratum of water had found a new outlet into the Salton region. But in a few days the difficulty with the artesian well was discovered and the flow restored. The manager of the New Liverpool salt works at Salton — Mr. George Durbrow — being now interested, determined to thoroughly investigate the phenomenon, and discovered that when the Colorado River rose in February of that year it had overflowed its banks below Yuma for a dis- tance of some twenty miles. Some portions of this over- flow found its way back to the river by way of a bed known 2fjO as llardic's Colorado, Init quite a quantity found its way In the many depressions tliat exist between Indian Wells and Salton. In June another overflow of the Colorado River took place, and these small lakes formed by the February overflow were now, in turn, overflowed, the sur- plus waters united and formed a channel which emptied into the Salton Basin. Thus the Salton Lake was formed, ten miles wide by thirty miles long, and about five feet deep in the deepest part. Mr. Durbrow is assured that no permanent lake can exist here. Evaporation is so rapid, that the waters speedily disappear, although scientific investigation has shown that, were the conditions at all ordinary', a lake of twenty feet depth might exist here from the overflows of the Colorada River since the monster breaks in its banks. VOLCANO SPRINGS: Elevation, 225 feet, S. P. Survey. To Los An- geles, 179 miles. To San Francisco, 663 miles. To New Orleans, 1,827 miles. A few miles east from the salt works are a number of famous mud volcanoes, which only await further explora- tions and the pens of enthusiastic scientists and tourists to make more famous than the Napa Valley geysers. Inadequate attempts at exploration have been made, but the ground is so treacherous that hitherto no one has had courage enough to complete the surveys. Professor Hanks, the State mineralogist, at one time undertook the work, but was severely injured by breaking through the burning crust. Twenty-five miles distant from Salton is INDIO: Population, 100, estimated. Elevation. 20 feet, S. P. Survey. To Los Angeles, 129 miles. To San Francisco, 613 miles. To New Orleans, 1,S77 miles. Located in a valley, some portions of which are below 291 sea level. This valley is in the heart of the desert, and is a wonderful example of newly created oasis. A quarter of a mile below the surface of burning sand, is a subterra- nean stream that, tapped by artesian wells, has given to Indio the bloom of tropical life. It is a cottage resort, and has all modern conveniences. Those afflicted with lung troubles find its climate very beneficial. There are five flowing and four pumping wells in the valley — one flowing well a mile above Indio; one at the station ; two at South Indio, three miles south of the sta- tion ; and one at Walters, twelve miles south. There are two pumping wells one-half mile west of Indio and two at the station. There are also tv/o ranches under cultivation near Indio, one within half a mile of the station, the other three miles south at South Indio, on the line of the railroad from Indio to Yuma. These ranches have b^en largely experi- mental in their character, having been planted in vines of numerous varieties, apricot, fig, olive, date and other trees. These places are now well advanced and afford an object lesson of what can be accomplished here by the aid of ir- rigation. PALM SPRINGS: Population, 200. Elevation, 550 feet, S. P. Sur- vey. To -Los Angeles, 145 miles. To San Fran- cisco, 629 miles. To New Orleans, 1,899 miles. Is the next station, but it is merely the stopping place for the stage which takes you to Palm Valley. This little settle- ment is five miles from the Southern Pacific station. There is a stage and telephone to connect them. This stage meets all trains. The village consists of post office, general store, a school house, church, cottages and tents and the Palm Springs Hotel, that will accommodate sixty persons. Rates $2.oo per day and $io.oo per week. Dr. Welwood Murray 292 is tlic proprietor. The village, with its tiny houses, em- bowered in cottonwoods, mesquite, figs, and fan palms, is built around the old Indian spring of Agua Calientc. George Hamlin Fitch says: "This spring is unparalled on the coast, and perhaps in the world. Through a central shaft, of the dimensions of an ordinary well, the hot water and sand rise, sometimes spurting high in air like a geyser, but usually bubbling over the surface. The water spreads around in a circular pool about six feet by ten, to a general depth of three or four inches. The bottom is hard sand until one reaches the shaft. Then the bather sinks wMth a swift motion that makes his heart leap. The warm, liquid sand closes in around the body, and one goes down to the armpits. Then with a mighty recoil the limbs are thrown out and the pool once more becomes placid." Here we see, too, in the canyons a few miles away, the monster date palms, which are indigenous to this region. Sixty, eighty and even 150 feet high, they tower aloft, as if attracting your attention to the beautiful land you are about to enter. They are not archangels, with flaming swords, refusing you admittance, but welcoming friends, bidding you enter and take full possession. They are in reality a good foretaste of semi-tropical Southern California, for in park, yard, garden or home enclosure they abound from San Bernardino to the sea. Their large fan leaves and monster bunches of dates are always attractive, and in their solemn grandeur they attest the dignity, beauty and fruit fulness of the Eden over the range. Not more than a thousand yards or so from the spring the massive wall of the San Jacinto Mountain rises — a perfect wall, perpendicular and straight — "looking as though it had been cut and squared by prehistoric stone masons." Riding along beneath its vastness one easily sees the way 293 in which the Colorado Desert and the mountains combine to assist the Climate Manufacturer in His purpose to make Southern California the new Eden. What a wonderful drop it is I From the summit of San Jacinto to the desert, a distance of over ten thousand feet, in a little over five miles! What wonder that the hot air ascends from this heated desert, high into the upper current regions when shut in by such a gigantic wall. After many years of Dr. Murray's Hotel at Palm Springs. personal experience and study of climatology I can un- hesitatingly commend Palm Valley to all who are begin- ning to suffer from pulmonary or bronchial troubles. The tragedy of so much of this kind of disease is that intelligent people wait until it is too late. As soon as the first symp- toms appear, drop everything and spend a few months or a year here and you can then begin life afresh. The impression has gone out that Dr. Murray's Palm Springs Hotel is a sanatarium, where people in advanced consumption are treated. This is entirely an error. No one who even coughs enough to disturb the most sensitive 2Q4 is ciUL-rtaincd at this hotel. There arc places in the valley, however, where they can be accommodated. Dr. Murray's liotel is a delightful place for the "run down" and wearied to go to for rest and recuperation, and in the genial society of the learned and interesting host and his dear and kind hearted wife the most refined and cultured can find a delight and pleasure seldom found anywhere. Fogs, winds and storms are unknown here; rain falls seldom; there arc no fleas, and the fruit is free from every kind of unclean parasite. Nineteen miles from Palm Springs is BANNING : Population, 500. r;ievation, 2.317 feet. S. P. Sur- vey. To T^os Ang:eles, 87 miles. To San Fran- cisco, 571 miles. To New Orleans, 1,919 miles. _^ 'l"o those interested in the Mission Indians, as they are called, good opportunities for visiting them in their homes are afforded in this region. On the southern slope of San Gorgonio, the snow- crowned peak and towering monarch of the San Bernar- dino range is an unusually fertile spot, where an exquisitely beautiful mountain stream, flowing merrily along and send- ing out its vivifying moisture to percolate through the porous soil, produces perennial growth in great variety of grasses, flowers, trees and shrubs. This is "Potrero." or "opening," an Indian village of about a hundred inhabitants. Twenty-five years ago only a few Indians were camped here, when some Mexican cattle men and sheep herders discovered the fertile spot. Soon they intermarried, and now ragged little urchins and sturdy little maidens of Mexican-Indian parentage watch the sheep and cattle as they enjoy the rich pasturage so abundantly provided. There is no regular stage line running to Potrero. but livorv hire is reasonable. Distance from Bannincr. three 295 miles. The U. S. Indian School has been in existence several years ; present teacher, Miss Sarah Er Morris. A Moravian Mission for the Indians also is located here, presided over by Rev. Wm. H. Weinland. Banning is a most picturesque town, nestling in the pass, between the San Bernardino Mountains on the right, and the San Jacinto Mountains on the left. It has a right to boast of its wonderful scenery and unequaled location. For, with the desert at its feet, it still gazes nearly all through the year upon the snow-clad summits of the highest moun- tains of Southern California. Being thus located it has a first-class water supply, both in purity and quantity. The former virtue is a great in- ducement to those who are invalids, and who need the dry antiseptic qualities of the desert, and the latter blessing is of incalculable benefit in reclaiming thousands of other- wise barren acres and making of them beautiful and profit- able orchards. Banning has churches, schools, livery stables, stores and hotels, and is growing and progressive. The chief hotel is the "Banning," with a capacity of 25 persons. Rates per day, $2.50; per week, $10.00 to $12.00. Mrs. Fraser, manager. A court of Independent Order of Foresters is well estab- lished, and here is located St. Boniface's Industrial School for Indians, with an attendance of 120 boys and girls. It is under the management of the Brothers of St. Joseph, Rev. Father B. Florian Hahn, superintendent. Six miles from Banning is BEAUMONT: Population, ,500. To T>os Angeles, SI miles. To San Francisco, 56.5 miles. To New Orleans, 1,925 miles. It is situated in the broadest part of the San Gorgonio 296 Pass, at an altitude of 2,560 feet, and is one of the most favored, as far as soil and climate are concerned, of all the young colonies of Riverside County, in which it is located. It has a full quota of churches, schools, business houses and town hall. Farming is extensively carried on and it is probable that over 100,000 acres of wheat and barley are planted out this season. Fruit raising is also of great importance to this district. There are two good hotels, the "Beatty," Capacity for 30 persons. Rates, per day, $1.00; per week, $7.00; W. A. Beatty, manager, and the "Del Paso," with a capacity for 30 persons, rates, per day, $r.oo; per week, $7.00. Mrs. M. M. Fisher, manager. The mountain streams and canyon falls near here have a far reaching reputation for their beauty and picturesque- ness. Three miles nearer to Los Angeles is EL CASCO : Population, 75. Elevation, 1,874 feet. To Los Angeles, 73 miles. To San Francisco, 557 miles. To New Orleans, 1,934 miles. This is a small station, but the country round about contains some of the best farms in the State, and stock raising and dairying are carried on to a large extent. There are three creameries at present doing a large business, and one public school, centrally located. Another nine miles traveled and the visitor is fairly within Southern California's more sheltered and especially favored region, at REDLANDS JUNCTION : Population, 300. Elevation, 1,101 feet, S. P. Survey. To Los Angeles, 64 miles. To San Fran- cisco, 548 miles. To New Orleans. 1,943 miles. The chief industry of this district is orange and lemon 297 raising. In 1903 375 cars of oranges were shipped. Three packing houses are kept busy with this work. Redlands proper will be described elsewhere. See Index. Three miles further and the train stops at LOMA LINDA: Here is one of Southern California's fine hotel and pleasure resorts. The beautiful main building with its turrets, balconies and porches, is set upon a commanding mound that ends in the mountain wall to its back. On either side the land slopes gently down to the San Bernar- dino Valley. To the northward is one of the lovely scenes of Southern California. In the foreground the old orange groves of the Mission ; be3^ond the Santa Ana River and farther yet the city of San Bernardino and its tree-sheltered environs spreading northward to that artistically outlined, majestic mountain wall, the San Bernardino Range. To the left, Colton town glistens in the sunlight. COLTON : Population, 2,000. Elevation, 965 feet. To Los Angeles, 58 miles. To San Francisco, 542 miles. To New Orleans, 1,948 miles. Is three miles from San Bernardino, and seventy miles east of the Pacific Ocean. This is a prosperous and growing city, and is reached also by the Santa Fe. It has good water and electric li.ght systems, three hotels, good schools, four churches, an opera house, the largest fruit cannery in Southern California, an extensive flouring mill, large ce- ment works, and good live active newspapers. The State Citrus Fair is also held here annually. Not far from the line of the Southern Pacific at Declez, near Colton, is a quarry of good building granite. This stone weighs about 175 pounds per cubic foot, and is very hard, tough, compact, uniform, durable rock, pure granite. 298 The buttes of nearly bare rock rise out of the plain to a height of 300 to 400 feet. This quarry, it is said, could be worked on two faces, each about one-fourth mile in length. There is estimated to be in this quarry six billion cubic yards of rock. The famous marble staircase in the Academy of Design in San Francisco is one of the choicest marble specimens from Colton's marble quarry, situated near the Slover Mountain. I have seen some fine varieties of marble, from the purest while to almost black, from this quarry. Colton's high altitude and its immunity from fogs, makes it a desirable place for those afflicted with pulmonary troubles. The best hotel is the Capital, capacity for 40 persons. Rates, per day, $2.00; per week, $6.00. Mr. J. Johnson, manager. Grapes for raisins and wine, oranges, olives, and figs are the chief horticultural products, while the apricot, peach, pears and pomegranates do well. Passing Bloomington, which is the station for a rapidly growing horticultural and canaigre growing region, fifteen miles from Colton, CUCAMONGA is reached. Population. 1.193. Elevation. 952 feet. S. P. Survey. To Los Angeles, 43 miles. To San Fran- cisco, 527 miles. To New Orleans. 1,964 miles. Although this place is known as the "home of the noble grape," owing to the diversity of soil and abundance of water, it produces staples such as haj% grain, potatoes, etc.. also, as well as many varieties of fruits. The Cu- camonga wineries are famous, having been established many years. There are now 3,000 acres of vineyard, in- cluding all varieties of raisin, wine and table grapes. Some of these vineyards require no irrigation whatever. Add 299 to this vineyard property 2,000 acres of orchard trees (mostly orange and lemon) and one begins to get some idea of the importance of the area known as Cucamonga, which extends from the two Cucamonga peaks in the north, ten miles south, and embraces a strip five miles wide. In the town of Cucamonga there are a church, schools, two stores, two blacksmith shops, a pharmacy, several good physicians, post office, livery stable, brick yard and every- thing necessary for a thriving town. There are many beautiful homes in and near the place. It is often spoken of as "the place of many springs," getting this name from the many small springs of the country. Four miles from Cucamonga and we reach ONTARIO : Population, 2,805. Elevation. 981 feet, S. P. Survey. To Los Angeles, 39 miles. To San Fran- cisco, 523 miles. To New Orleans, 1,968 miles. In 1882 the Ontario lands were purchased by the Chaf- fey Brothers, two energetic Canadians, by whom the, as yet, unborn town was named. In December of that year, before the city's roads were graded or pipe lines laid, a few enterprising purchasers ap- peared and, during the first ten days after the platting of the colony was partially completed, L. S. Dyar, J. S. Calkins, S. W. Strong, Daniel Nicholl and others had purchased $28,000 worth of Ontario lands. Rough as the appearance of the place was then, the situation captivated those far seeing men. Prices at that time ranged from $150 to $200 per acre. Some of the early buyers im- proved their lands during the first year of the colony's existence, gaining in this way the bonus which Ontario's founders at that time offered to settlers. The first two decades of Ontario's life have been like the transformation produced by the touch of a fairy's 300 wand, as compared witli the normal growth of settlements on the other side of the continent. When a new arrival sees the four rows of evergreen trees which align On- tario's "Euclid Avenue," 200 feet wide and seven miles long, one end of which he sees distinctly from the other, many of the trees towering higher than a church steeple, with a girth of trunk equaling the most corpulent of men, and he is told that less than twenty years ago they were tender little plants protected by a girth of shingles from the marauding jack rabbit, a smile of incredulity plays around his face showing that he doesn't believe a word of it, and yet it is perfectly true. He boards the avenue electric cars, rides to the top, sees the palatial residences there, surveys the panorama of orchards, vineyards and dwellings spread before his be- wildered vision. He then re-enters the car and flies past seven miles of almost continuous orange groves stretch- ing on either side, laden almost to breaking with their golden fruit. The snow-covered pinnacles of the rugged San Bernardino range, 11,000 feet high, are but a span's distance apparently behind him, while the San Jose Hills, covered with emerald verdure, are in front of him. Here the attractive garden scenes, the lovely parks, masses of flowers and magnificent avenues burst upon him like a dream of beauty. Owing to the elevation of Euclid Avenue the enraptured spectator gets a panoramic view of scenery at once bewilderingly beautiful and grand. So transparent is the atmosphere that mountains over a hun- dred miles distant, or islands in the ocean, appear to be almost within a stone's throw. Southward looms up the Santa Ana range. To the southeast Mount San Jacinto rears its head in supernal loftiness, while in the west the entire San Gabriel range, with its oflFshoots, and the shimmering waters of the Pacific are descried. 301 Ontario's water supply is derived from the snow-man- lled summit of San Antonio. This supply is most abund- ant and can be reckoned upon as being everlasting as the mountain from which it flows, and the underground system for its distribution is as perfect as can be devised. A spring of water can be made at any time to bubble up at the will of the owner of the soil from the highest corner of any irrigated tract. Along Euclid Avenue there are now guite a number of handsome residences, and these are constantly on the increase. During 1893 over fifty residences were erected, ranging in cost from $1,500 to $8,000, and the present year (1903) has seen new packing houses, new churches, new business blocks, new school houses and many new homes. The best hotel is the "Ontario," capacity for 60 persons. Rates per day, $2.50; per week, $8.00 to $12.00. C. Prank- ish, manager. Ontario has an excellent system of public schools, and there is an atmosphere of culture and refinement about the town and its people. It has several banks and is a bust- ling, active, business community with a good number of first-class stores. Under present civic government, there are no saloons in Ontario. Further particulars will be given about On- tario .and its tributary district under the heading North Ontario. CHINO: Population, 1,920. Elevation, 716 feet, S. P. Survey. To Los Angeles, 45 miles. To San Fran- cisco, 529 miles. To New Orleans. 1,962 miles. Five miles southward, is situated in the centre of the Chino Ranch, and though only thirteen years old (in 1903) is prosperous and growing. It is reached directly 302 Iiy llic Soullicni Pacific Railway and also liy the Chino Valley K. R. from Ontario. It has good schools, churches, hotels, the Star, capacity 12 persons, rates $1.00 per day, Mrs. M. E. Birgamin; the Chino, capacity 12 persons, rates per day, $1.00, E. W. Bradley; People's Hotel, capacity 19 persons, rales $1.00 per day, $5.00 per week, J. W. Saw- yer, manager; business houses and a live newspaper well edited. The Chino Ranch, on which the town is located, contains 50,000 acres of land, a large portion of which is sold, or being offered for sale, to settlers. The ranch joins Ontario on the north and Pomona on the west. Five thousand acres here are devoted to the culture of ihe sugar beet, and the largest beet sugar factory in the United States is in operation at the town of Chino, with a capacity for handling one thousand tons of beets per day. Formerly the crude sugar was shipped for refining to San Francisco, but refining apparatus is now added to the works and the crop is handled to the finish. Directly and indirectly this wealthy plant furnishes employment to two thousand people in and about Chino. Chino is essentially a beet growing community, on ac- count of the sugar factory, but large quantities of alfalfa are also grown. Six miles from Ontario is POMONA : Population, 6,000. Elevation. S57 feet, S. P. Survey. To Los Angeles, 33 miles. To San Fran- cisco, 517 miles. To New Orleans, 1,973 miles. This is one of the most prosperous cities of Southern California. It was founded in 1881-2. According to the statistics of the State, it is a fifth class city. The name Pomona, the goddess of fruits, suggests the idea of luxury and effulgent growth, peach aroma and orange glow and rich bearing vintage kissing the earth with its great clusters of amethystine gems. 303 It is one of the most charming and fertile spots of its own valley. In its widespread orchards there does not appear to he one neglected tree and they swell in their individual beauty as though individually loved. Beauty loving indeed were those who first chose the location, at the foot of San Antonio Mountain. This section was once known as the San Jose Valley and a little range of hills, destined for a future park, is still called San Jose Hills. The streets are well graded and watered and in all direc- tions for miles and miles continuous rows of orchards, in their profuse growth, almost hide the nestling homes of their owners. A tract, which twenty years ago was a desert, now yields almost two millions of dollars annuallv for horticultural products. While olives are most gener- ously cultivated, oranges, apricots, peaches and prunes also yield large incomes. The irrigation of Pomona consists largely of mountain seepage, but artesian wells furnish delicious and whole- some water, a new domestic water system having just been established, for all domestic and irrigating purposes. A mountain stream in San Antonio Canyon is utilized by the San Antonio Electric Light and Power Company to furnish light and electricity to Pomona, and also throughout the valley to Los Angeles, Pasadena, etc. Oiie-half of the water of this canyon is carried in con- crete pipes three and one-half miles to be distributed to all points necessary. The numerous cienegas, supplied by seepage or subterranean streams are hardly required with the wealth of artesian water already developed. In one spot there is a cluster of twelve artesian wells rushing out in a massive liquid flow that has not diminished for ten years. Pomona Valley owns about sixty-seven of these wells and Ijeing free from alkaline, saline or other minerals, «», -, '*;■*? 41, w73r-,:_' ,.:K'^ 305 it is especially sanitary. The Pomona Land and Water Company sells the perpetual right to use irrigating water with the land, in ratio of one inch of water to ten acres of land, hence there is not a foot of soil that has not ample water for all cultivating purposes. A large and popular tourist resort is Hotel Palomares, presenting a frontage of 260 feet, and surrounded by palms, pines and magnolia trees. This handsome three-story building was built at the cost of $110,000. Its wide veran- das, surrounding almost the entire building, and the little park encircling it, give it a retired, homelike effect, es- pecially pleasing to family travelers, who desire accommo- dations that suggest home. Here the balmy fragrance of the rose and lemon verbana fills the air with constant sweetness, while the rustling and tinkling of the leaves of palm and pine radiate tender music. From its high towers may be seen a view as inspiring as it is romantic. Four lofty mountain peaks lift their heads up into the blue of heaven seeming to vie with one another in the protection of the nestling town in the valley below. This rugged, colossal quartet consists of the two Cucamonga peaks, San Antonio and San Bernardino, 11,000 feet high. No visitor should miss the broad view gained of the country from this handsome building. The name of this hotel has a musical Spanish sound, and as one might suspect, was that of one of the original grantees of the San Jose Ranch. Among the three Span- iards concerned, Ygnacio Palomares, Richardo Vejar and Louis Arenas, the first was most popular on account of his staunch devotion to the real interests of the country. He was made godfather of this hotel when it was established by a stock company of six in the year 1887. It is now under able management. 3o6 There arc several smaller hotels, with good accommo- dations and central location combined, so one may find in Pomona every grade of service, from the finest hostelry down to the ordinary restaurant. These have rates from $1.00 to $1.25 per day and from $4.00 to $G.oo by the week. All branches of business are undergoing rapid develop- ment, and costly business blocks are erected. There are three flourishing banks, the First National, the National, and the People's Bank. All lines of commercial business are represented and street railway lines facilitate travel. Its wineries are in full operation, making sweet wines that are becoming known in England as well as in America. Large vineyards here yield from five to ten tons per acre. The Pomona Cannery employs from three to five hundred men, women and children during the season of preparing deciduous fruits for market. ^^lanufacturing possibilities are also developing, and a very successful firm now deals in brass and iron goods, marketed all over the United States. One of the leading features to testily to Pomona's progress is the Carnegie public librarj', well built and splendidly equipped, with all modern appointments, and illuminated with electricity. An association, by the aid of flower festivals, contrived to get a capital basis for a library, establishing it in 1887. In 1890 it was made a city library, with ^Irs. E. P. Bartlett, one of its original charter members, as librarian. The books are well selected. A feature of no little importance, that might in point of utility be suggested to other libraries, is a nucleus for a mineral and conchological collection. Pomona has four newspapers, two of them ranking high in the journalistic scale of the State. These are The Times and The Progress. The public schools of Pomona are managed with es- 307 pecial care, and stand on a par with any in the State. Two large hrick buildings costing $40,000 have been erect- ed, and forty teachers are employed, besides six who do kindergarten work. The Pomona College also, which is fully described in the chapter on the '"Kite Shaped Track," is one of the educational institutions of Pomona, of which the city is justly proud. A comprehensive view can be gained of Pomona and vicinity by ascending the San Jose Hills on their western portion. These graceful hills are the accepted region for a future park, and to realize the beauty and fertility of Pomona one should ascend this winding driveway and feast the eye upon the unrolling valley, where link after link of fragrant gardens and orchards rise in magical succession. Here one may encompass an expanse from the mountains on one side to the foothill range on the other, and from Azusa at one end to Ontario on the other. These San Jose Hills are most enviable points for resi- dences, and nature has already supplied picturesque ad- juncts in artless groups of live oaks and spicy wild flowers, while at their base the running stream is kissed by great healthy clusters of willows. There is a saying among farmers, "Plant vineyards for your children, orange orchards for your grandchildren, and olives for posterity." Pomona has done all three most energetically, and its success has been demonstrated to the world by the prizes won at the State Citrus Fair, held at Los Angeles, under the auspices of the State Horticultural Commission. One of the largest single orange groves in this region is owned by Mr. Seth Richards, of Boston, comprising 300 acres. There are a number of 120 acre tracts, but the average 3o8 consisis of forty or fifty acres, the whole making a total of nearly 0,ooo cultivated acres at and around Pomona. Among the fruits are lemons, figs, peaches, apricots, nec- tarines, prunes, apples, pears, plums, cherries, quinces, grapes and berries. Almonds, walnuts and chestnuts also thrive well. But the acme of all its horticulture upon which Pomona's temperature rises with eloquence of praise is the olive. Two miles from the center of the city is located the U. S. Experimental Station, which is also well worth visiting. There are tW'O routes on the Southern Pacific from Pomona to Bassett, one the older, going by way of Spadra, Puente, etc., and the newer by way of Lordsburg, San Dimas, Covitia. Let us take the new and more northern route first, and then the lower one. Lordsburg is a Dunkard settlement with a new broom air, neatness and thrift being evident everywhere. Sheer force of great advantages has added largely to its popula- tion in the last few years. A Dunkard college is main- tained. These generous and honorable people are building an ideal colonj'. But the Gentile is not absent ; his eager eye has noted Lordsburg's prosperity. The orchards of citrus and deciduous fruits and of walnuts are wonderfully productive — partly due, no doubt, to wonderful care. Large packing houses will be observed here as well as at Covina and San Dimas. San Dimas and Lordsburg are both on the Kite-Shaped Track. See that chapter for further particulars. San Dimas. — Four miles further is San Dimas, a smaller edition of Covina. It possesses scenic advantages, in- cluding a romantic waterfall. On the material side pros- perity is shown in a fine packing house, a sign of the times at all the fruit colony stations. 309 Covina is the largest berry district in Southern Cali- fornia, but it is great not alone in small things. In orange shipments it is among the three or four leading points in the State, and modestly says little, either of that or of its large returns from deciduous fruits and agriculture. There is a growing suspicion that the good people of Covina are quietly getting rich without taking the outside world into their business confidence. It is acquiring metropolitan airs, and is destined to be one of the largest of the interior Southern California cities. More will be said about Co- vina in the chapter on the Kite-Shaped Track. Let us now return to the other route. SPADRA: Elevation, 705 feet, S. P. Survey. A town named by its founders for their former home in Missouri. It is thirty miles east of Los Angeles, and is located in a rich hay, grain and oil country. Ten miles nearer to Los Angeles is PUENTE: Elevation, 323 feet, S. P. Survey. To Los An- geles, 19 miles. To San Francisco, 503 miles. To New Orleans, 1,988 miles. Also a small town, located just below the Puente Hills, where the oil wells of the Puente Oil Company are in ac- tive operation. The soil of this region is as rich and fruitful as any in Southern California, and is destined to supply homes for many thousands of prosperous people. It is a great agricultural locality, and large amounts of grain, . hay and other produce are shipped annually. The "Puente" is a good hotel, with a capacity for lo persons. Rates $i.oc per day; $6.oo per week. H. Heinze, manager. 310 MONTE: Elevation. 286 feet, S. P. Survey. To Los An- Rolos, 14 miles. To San Francisco, 498 miles. To New Orelans, 1,993 miles. The oldest American colony in Southern California, was established July 4, 1852, by immigrants from Arkansas and Texas. Here the Baptists founded their first church. For a long time there was trouble over the land titles, by reason of ATcxican grants. Nearly all the pioneers have died or moved away, and most of their children have gone, yet there is still a goodly population. Hotel "El Monte." capacity 12. Rates by week, $5.00. W. R. Dodson. The name literally means a mountain, but by some process it is here understood to mean woods, as a forest of willow once covered all the lowlands of Monte. These lowlands are situated at the lower end of the San Gabriel valley, just north of the Paso del Eartolo, through which the San Gabriel river flows into the Los Angeles valley. They are about four miles wide, east and west, by eleven miles long, north and south. They are quite damp and moist, from the fact that the water comes up close to the surface everywhere on them. Irrigation is a thing not needed. For this reason alfalfa and maize grow luxuriantl}^, and horses, neat cattle and hogs have abundant feed. The blue gum tree also yields a large supply of fire wood. Melons, squash, and other vegetables do remarkably well. This section being low and moist, has more frost than the dry uplands; hence citrus fruits are barred. A mile west is SAVANNAH : Elevation. 296 feet. S. P. Survey. To Los An- .sreles, 12 miles. To San Francisco, 496 miles. To New Orleans, 1,995 miles. A hamlet possessing all the characteristics of Monte. 311 Hops are largely grown in this region, all of which are used by the Los Angeles brewers. The relic hunter with his kodak can find no more invit- ing field than the surrounding country. A half a dozen or more old houses, built in the southern style, forty years ago, at great cost, with lumber bought of the Mormons at San Bernardino, lend an air of antiquity to its rural scenes. After leaving Savannah the next town is Rosemead, with the same surrounding country and nearly the same characteristics. Two miles further on, the traveler looks upon one of the oldest towns in Southern California. SAN GABRIEL: Population, 2,501. Elevation, 409 feet, S. P. Survey. To Los Angeles, 10 miles. To San Fran- cisco, 494 miles. To New Orleans, 1,997 miles. was founded, as I have already shown in the chapter on the Missions, by the indefatigable Padre Junipero Serra. A quarter of a mile west of the Southern Pacific depot is the old Mission. The electric car system of Los Angeles has a line which passes through the centre of the little town and has its terminus at the Mission. San Gabriel is a quaint and picturesque old town, strangely old and strange- ly modern. The ancient church, the Mexican adobes, the dark-faced Mexican men, women and children, are in one eye, while the other surveys one of the finest hotels of Southern California, the "Raymond." together with the luxurious homes and ranches of cultured Americans. Let the interested reader, reperuse what I have written on the Mission of San Gabriel, and the Historical Chapter, and he will not fail to look upon this ancient village with keener enjoyment and greater delight. Of the larger industries, San Gabriel has three large 312 packing houses. The Golden Gate Fruit Co. also manufac- tures fruit juice. Here also is the San Gabriel Sanitarium for nervous diseases, with fifty-five patients at the present date. (1903.) Interested sight-seers will enjoy a drive up the San Gabriel Boulevard, which is lined on either side with pep- per trees and ancient eucalyptus trees in the center. Here, also, is found the oldest orange grove with the largest orange trees in the country. The San Gabriel Hotel furnishes good accommodations at the rate of $3.00 per day. A pleasant mile's drive from San Gabriel is the celebrated Sunny Slope Vineyard and Winery, now owned by a wealthy English syndicate, and close to Sunny Slope is Rosemead, a noted stock farm and race track, where a num- be of well known racers have been bred and trained. One mile from San Gabriel is the flourishing little town of ALHAMBRA: Population, 1,182. Elevation, 425 feet, S. P. Survey. To Los Angeles, 9 miles. To San Fran- cisco, 493 miles. To New Orleans, 1,998 miles. This is a beautiful residence settlement amongst orange groves and peach orchards, population 1,182, many of these being owned by wealthy settlers, or well-to-do business men of Los Angeles, who prefer to reside in this attractive surburban town. There are three church buildings, two other denominations holding their services in a public hall. The public schools are good. A well printed newspaper is published in the city. The "Alhambra" is a good hotel, with a capacity for 50 persons, rates per day $1.50, per week $7.00. Mrs. Furstenfeld, manager. Alhambra also has a shoe factory, which is rapidly grow- ing in size and capacity. It is thoroughly equipped with 313 the latest improved machinery, and everything in its ap- pointments is first-class. It has already more than quad- rupled its original capacity, and yet it was only opened in January, 1893. Alhambra shoes are now sent all over the Pacific Coast, from Mexico to Oregon, and as far east as Arizona, Nevada and New Mexico. The company makes eighty-five different styles of men's and boys' shoes. Leaving Alhambra, a short ride brings the tourist to the city limits of Los Angeles. This city — the metropolis of Southern California — has already been fully described in a chapter devoted to it. The Southern Pacific train upon which we have ridden, discharges its local passengers at several city depots, on its way to the handsome and com- modious "Arcade," situated at the junction of Fifth Street and Maple Avenue. From this depot we will continue our journey on one of the local trains of the Southern Pacific to the Sea at Santa Monica, where this railway has built the longest wharf in the world. Passing Central Avenue and Winthrop Stations UNIVERSITY Is reached. This is really West Los Angeles, but it re- ceives its name from the "University of Southern Califor- nia," the chief buildings of which are established here. University is an educational suburb, largely composed of intelligent and religious people, many of them belonging to the Methodist Episcopal Church, to which organization the LTniversity owes its origin. Leaving University, a wide, open valley, well cultivated and fairly populated, is entered, and a few miles further along, twelve miles west from Los Angeles, a pretty settle- ment named 314 THE PALMS Population, 1,000. Klevation. 1J4 feet, S. P. Survey. To Los Anpelcs, 12 miles. and chiefly known for its deciduous fruits is reached. The place is named from the number of large palms which dot the region for quite a distance near the Southern Pacific depot. It is laid out in a tasteful style, and the settlement being on rolling land, in full view of the ocean and mountains, is both picturesque and healthful. This little town consists of stores, post office and other necessary business houses for a place of this size. The "Palm Villa" hotel is open the year around. Rates, per day, $2.00. The chief industries are farming and fruit raising. Three miles before reaching Santa Monica the NATIONAL SOLDIERS' HOME To Los Angeles, 17 miles. is passed. This costly and pernjanent structure stands in 300 acres of ground, which were donated for the pur- pose. The building is capable of accommodating over 1,500 old soldiers and already over one thousand are sheltered within its hospitable walls. The home is connected with Santa Monica and all outside points by the electric car system and the suburban lines of the Southern Pacific. It w'ill be more fully described in the chapter on Santa Monica. Sauia Monica is sixteen miles west of Los Angeles, and is the southern terminus of the Southern Pacific on the Pacific shore. A special chapter is devoted to Santa !\Tonica. CHAPTER XXVI. SANTA MOXICA. A beautiful town with broad streets, overarched with a canopy of branches ; a town spread out on the broad bank of an upland and peering out through a fine grove upon the Pacific ; a town with homes flower-embowered ; a town surrounded by a picturesque country given over to green fields and large orchards, with a background of green hills that swell into purple mountains, such is Santa Monica. From the edge of the bluff is seen one of America's great playgrounds, a magnificent beach, a broad expanse of glis- tening sand that affords fine surf-bathing. Ofif to the right the great ocean pier at port Los Angeles reaches a mile out into the ocean ; to the left a rugged headland marks the bay's domain. On the bluff and overhanging it the landside smiled up to b}' a beautiful park of trees and grass and flowers, its ocean face to the setting sun, and overlooking a great ex- panse of sapphire sea, is Hotel Arcadia. Around this great hotel, with its broad verandas, its beautiful grounds and its fine ocean views, linger many pleasant memories. For many years Santa ■Monica has been the most popular of Southern California seaside resorts. This is easily understood, for to go swimming in this pleasant surf, to sail upon the pellucid waters of the bay, to fish from the fine pleasure wharf or the ocean end of its great commercial neighbor, to dream upon the moonlit beach with the air moving gently to the music of the surf, to drive among the wooden canyons of the mountains or tramp beneath the clear dawn along the far stretches of the beach, and to 3i6 feast in cijicurcan style in the famous fishgrill of tlie Ar- cadia, are indeed experiences to be desired. Here upon the beach in December, one may watch the bathers dancing through the surf, with the odor of roses in the air. Santa Monica is but seventeen miles from Los Angeles. The Southern Pacific railway, and the Los Angeles and Pa- cific electric railway connect the cities. Electric cars take passengers between the Hotel Arcadia and the business center of Los Angeles every half hour, giving the choice of three routes — one via the foothills and Hollywood, an- other through the blooming Cahuenga Valley, and a third through a beautiful part of the metropolis, past club houses and golf links. The time is about fifty minutes. The Southern Pacific maintains fast local service with uptown stations at both ends, the trains running through in about thirty minutes. The round-trip rate between the cities is fifty cents. Ten-ride party tickets are sold for $1.50 on the steam lines and $2.00 on the electric railway. There is good fishing at Santa Monica, for between the Channel islands and the Southern California coast is the best salt water rod-and-reel fishing in the world. The game tuna, the great sea bass, yellow tail, albicore, barracuda, and many kinds of surf fish afford rare sport. Hunting is excellent, and many nimrods make the neighboring valleys and mountains the scenes of their exploits. In the Santa Monica mountains are deer and bear, and up among the pines are mountain quail and gray squirrels, with an oc- casional bob cat. The valleys are well stocked with doves and valley quail, to say nothing of rabbits, which are ex- ceedingly plentiful. Winter duck grounds are not far dis- tant. Yachting and boating on the bay are favorite pastimes of visitor.^ and midwinter surf bathing is a delightful pastime. It is interesting to note the struggle a newcomer has to divest himself of the idea that the name January necessarily connotes cold sea water. For those who do not care for the surf in winter and yet wish to enjoy a plunge, there is the magnificent North Beach bathhouse, with all kinds of hot water baths. The great cement plunge with the water heated to a pleasant temperature, is very popular Santa Monica is the great gathering place for the tennis players of Southern California. The annual tournaments are held here every year. The fine golf links have given it the lead in that sport also. Santa Monica has admittedly the best polo grounds in the south, and has some ardent devotees of the game. ClIAI'TKR XX\1I. FROM LOS ANGELES OVER THE TEHACHEPF MOUNTAINS ON THE SOUTHERN I'ACIFIC RAILWAY. Both Bakersfield and Santa Barbara arc on the Southern Pacific. The former is northeast, and the latter northwest from Los Angeles. To reach both places one travels on the same line as far as Saugus, where the road forks. Bakers- field is on the main line between Los Angeles and San Francisco. Leaving Los Angeles from Arcade depot, and passing First Street, Commercial Street and the River Stations, the Southern Pacific leaves the point where the Santa Fe and Terminal Railways join with itself to form steel bands along the Los Angeles River, and at once enters the Val- ley of San Fernando. TROPICO: Population, 425. Elevation, 42S feet, S. P. Sur- vey. To Los Angeles, 4 miles. To San Francisco. 480 miles. This is one of the children of the boom and has flourished Avell, having quite a number of thriving ranches and com- fortable homes and hotels, also a good grammar school. ^^■EST. GLENDALE : Population, 357. Elevation, 460 feet, S. P. Sur- vey. To Los Angeles, 8 miles. To San Fran- cisco, 476 miles. To New Orleans, 2,013 miles. This is the west portion of the town of Glendale, which is situated a little to the northeast. The town is more fully described elsewhere. See index. Scpulveda. One mile further, nine miles from Los Angeles, this station, located in the midst of vineyards, orange, olive and peach orchards, is reached. 319 BURBANK: Population, 3,048. Elevation, 558 feet, S. P. Survey. To Los Angeles, 11 miles. To San Francisco, 473 miles. Two miles from Sepulveda is a thriving town of con- siderable pretentions. It is situated in a fine location, has innumerable advantages of soil and climate, and lands sell for a good figure. The town is laid out on the east side of the railroad and slopes up towards the mountains. It has a fine hotel, good business houses, a seven-thousand-dol- lar sclioolhouse, three churches and a bank. Here fine de- ciduous fruits, potatoes and grain are raised in abundance. The mountains overlooking Burbank are the Verdugo, and in driving, riding or walking" many an exquisite spot may be visited in the canyons, valleys and mountain nooks be- tween the town and the Sierra Madre range. CHATSWORTH PARK: Elevation, 925 feet, S. P. Survey. To Los An- geles, 31 miles. Has a population of about fifty families. It is reached from Burbank l:)y a short branch line twenty iniles long, of the Southern Pacific, and is soon to be on the main line from Los Angeles to San Francisco. It is a picturesque settlement among groves of live oaks. Its chief industries are fruit, stock and grain raising. A quarry, from which the rock is taken for building the breakwater at San Pedro harbor, is located here. The Santa Susana tunnel, on the Coast Line of the Southern Pacific, 7,300 feet long, is near here. The Chatsworth Hotel can accommodate 40 persons Rates $1.50 per day, $7.00 per week. D. jMead, manager. Tcjnnga and Paconia are respectively sixteen and nineteen miles from Los Angeles, their elevation is 837 feet and 1,007 feet., S. P. survey, and are small stations and settle- ments, picturesque and attractive. These towns are in the 320 "graiiiaiy of I>os Angeles County," this being one of tlic liest grain growing sections in tlic worlrl. SAN FERNANDO: Population, 500. Elevation, 1,060 feet, S. P. Survey. To Los Angeles, 21 miles. To San Francisco, 4G3 miles. Two miles from Pacoma is this old and historic settlement, receiving its name from the Franciscan Mission, established a century ago. The mission is about a mile from the town, the more modern part of which has sprung up within the past few years — during the boom days. The fine building to the right as one rides north is the theological seminary building, founded by ex-Senator JNIcClay, to whom a large portion of the old San Fernando ranch belonged. The building still remains, but the seminary is closed, never again to be opened, probably, for the work for which it was built. Near by are to be seen the extensive underground dams of the company owning the San Fernando lands. These are most interesting to those who sagely question the fact that "Southern California rivers flow underground." I have not space for a full description, but the works may be understood if the idea is conceived of an underground river, dammed up, so that it flows again to the surface, where it is piped to the needed locations. The water is pure and abundant and when used upon the soil makes it very productive. There are good artesian wells also, which furnish an additional water supply. The town is small, but prettily located. There are several stores, a Methodist church, post and express offices, also the Hotel Fernando, capacity for 6o persons, rates $i.oo per day, $6.oo per week. Manager, H. A. Lehndorff. During the wheat harvest San Fernando is exceedingly busy. From lOO to 250 six and eight-horse teams, loaded with the grain drive in and unload. 321 The olive orchard planted by the padres, is in a good state of preservation, some of the trees being two feet in diameter. A few palms, too, planted at the same time, have grown to a great height, hence it is not to be wondered at that San Fernando is found to be an excellent place for the growth of citrus and deciduous fruits. One orchard alone, of 65,000 trees, has been planted out, and fine oranges, peaches, lemons and olives are grown there. The valley is bounded by the San Fernando Mountains on the east and north, the Coast Range on the west, and the Sierra Santa Monica on the west and south. While much of it is in a high state of cultivation, the railway here and there passes through grease wood, cactus patches, and small clumps of cedars and mesquite bushes, and other portions quite barren and desolate. The cacti are the most interesting of the objects passed. The pad cactus, one of the opuntias, grows extensively and is sometimes seen twenty feet high. In the wash of the Tejunga, near San Fernando, are beautiful specimens of the Agave Americano, the most remarkable of all the agaves. It is the iiiaguay of the Mexicans, commonly called the American aloe, or century plant. At Fernando the passenger and freight trains take on another engine and after traveling five more miles down the San Fernando Creek, light is almost excluded and the train goes into perfect midnight. The traveler has entered the San Fernando Tunnel, 6,967 feet long, timbered all the way, at an elevation of 1,469 feet above the sea. On the north side of the tunnel Andreii's is passed, and two miles further, NEWHALL: Population, 442. Elevation, 1,265 feet, S. P. Survey. To Los Angeles, 30 miles. To San Francisco, 454 miles. 322 This place gains its name from a former proprietor of the 50,000 acre ranch, through which the railway passes. He owned thonsands of cattle and sheep, which roamed at will through his vast and unfenced estate. Newhail has a large hotel, school and church, and an abundance of good water, both for domestic and agricultu- ral purposes. Three miles away is the Placerita Canyon, where hydrau- lic mining is still carried on. It was in this neighborhood that gold was first discovered by the padres, and miners are still at work washing out the precious metal. Honey is also shipped in large quantities from Newhail. Two miles away are the Newhail oil fields, which arc both extensive and productive. There are many oil spring - scattered over the land. There are also large masses of oil rock, or brea, while quantities of oil may be seen oozing from the rock strata, this region being so strongly impregnated with gas and oil that the escaping gas can be plainly detected as it issues from the ground. One oil well here produces pure petroleum which is claimed to be specific for rheumatism. SAUGUS : Elevation, 1.159 feet, S. P. Survey. To Los Angeles, 32 miles. To San Francisco, 452 miles. Is a somewhat dreary and desolate place at the depot. R. R. Eating House, rates $3.00 per day; proprietor, M. Wood. The road to Santa Barbara diverges to the left here. Proceeding northward on the main line we reach LANG : Elevation, 1,682 feet, S. P. Survey. To Los Angeles, 44 miles. To San Francisco, 440 miles. This is a small station, situated about half a mile west of where the "last spike" was driven, September 5, 1876, that united the two lines, bnildins:: from Los Angeles to San Francisco, and San Francisco to Los Angeles. Not far from the station is a group of ten white sulphur springs of great virtue. As a health resort for those who love the wilds of nature, this is an ideal spot, and Dr. Walter Lindley, in his "Cali- fornia of the South" grov/s quite enthusiastic over its many advantages. RAVENA: Elevation, 2,262 feet. To Los Angeles, 54 miles. To San Francisco, 480 miles. This small village is largely composed of ]\Iexicans, log, sod and stone houses being the prevailing styles of architecture. At one time is was a common saying that here "moss agates and grizzly bears abounded." About a mile below Ravena, on the right, high up on the side of the mountain, and, possibly, 6oo feet above the cars, is a huge rock, called "George Washington," from the alleged likeness it bears to the "father of our country." From Lang to Acton the train winds its waj' through the Solcdad Canyon. As the cars pass through this canyon of solitude it is well to look out and enjoy its rugged wonders. It is a deep gorge, with towering mountain' cliffs rising on the south side, in places from 500 to 2,000 feet above the bed of the canyon. These cliffs seem as if they had been furiously cleft into deep narrow ravines, and then left to despair and desolation, for they are as wild, gloomy and dismal gorges as the most vivid imagination could conceive. It is about twenty-five miles in length, and is inhabited largely by ^lexicans. For many years the noted robber and outlaw Vasquez made this his home, until he was captured and executed at San Jose, March 19, 1875. The head of the pass, near Acton, is known yet as the "Robber's Roost." Three miles from Ravena 324 ACTON : Elevation, 2.670 feet, S. P. Survey. To Los Angeles, 57 miles. To San Francisco, 427 miles. Is reached. Acton is becoming prominent as a health resort, its altitude, equable temperature, dry climate, and in- teresting surroundings making it a first-class place wherein to laugh and grow fat. At no place in California can tour- ists see with less trouble gold mines in operation than here. There are about twenty gold mines, one extending 750 feet underground, and many of them very productive. Acton is the gateway to the new resort on Mt. Gleason, destined to be one of the great popular pleasure places on the coast. From its 6000-foot elevation may be seen moun- tain, desert, valley, ocean. Trees up there are 200 feet high ; but if you do not care for climbing, hunting, exploring, and quartz-collecting are enjoyable pastimes. Hotel Arton, capacity for 25 persons. Rates, per day, $1.50; per week, $8.00. F. E. West, manager. Five miles before the summit of Soledad Pass is crossed, at an altitude of 3,211 feet, stands VINCENT: To Los Angeles, 63 miles. To San Francisco. 422 miles. Acton and Vincent are mere way-side stations, although in the country round about considerable farming, honey producing and mining are carried on. Seven miles from Vincent is PALMDALE : Population, 85. Elevation, 2,658 feet. S. P. Survey. To Los Angeles, 69 miles. To San Francisco, 415 miles. Here the traveler begins to enter the region of desert palms, — Yuccas as the Giant Cactus, the Ccreus Giganteus is often improperly named. Who that has crossed the des- 325 erts of Arizona and Soullicaslern California is not familiar with these astonishing trees, thousands of which stand like an army of bristling giants, guarding the sands that give them life. Many of them attain great height, fifty, sixty and even seventy feet being sometimes reached. The Hotel Grove at Palmdale has a capacity for 25 per- sons. Rates $1.25 per day; $6.50 per week. Mrs A. C. Colton, manager. From Palmdale to LANCASTER: Population, 85. Elevation, 2,350 feet, S. P. Survey. To Los Angeles, 78 miles. To San Francisco, 407 miles. Is nine miles. Lancaster is a growing little town, being the trading point for many sheep and cattle men, as well as miners in the outlying districts. It has a church, a school, and a number of stores. Near by, is the fertile Antelope Valley, which during the past few years has come into considerable notice as an excellent place for the growth of almonds. This valley is destined to make homes for thou- sands of people, the lands being cheap and well irrigated. Some of the finest wheat, in large quantities, is raised here, and cherries and raisin grapes do remarkably well. The water for irrigation is mainly secured from a wide artesian well belt which is found to exist, and almost in every place where boring is done water is easily found. Snow occa- sionally falls here in winter, but it does no damage, and, indeed, is found to be a help in the growing of cherries and apples. Antelope Valley is about seventy-five miles long by ten to twenty miles wide, and it has 70,000 acres sown to grain and nearly 5,000 acres planted to fruit. It has four irriga- tion districts, eight incorporated water companies, seventy- six artesian wells, fourteen post offices, ten school districts, 326 nine stores, a good hank, one railroad, six Iiotels, abund- ance of alfalfa land, produces the earliest fruit, is sur- rounded hy mountains hearing silver, gold, ashcstos, marble, lime, gj'psum, is unequaled for health, and has a population of about 2,500. We now leave Los Angeles County, and, just before reaching Rosamund, enter Kern County. This is a small and un- important station, though near by, we may obtain an inter- esting view of the deceptive Mirage Lake. It appears as if of water, but is mostly white sand and alkali. We are now in the heart of the Mohave Desert, where "the dry beds of ancient lakes, which, being covered with salt, soda and borax, glitter in tile bright sunlight like sheets of burnished metal, or the rii)p!ing waters that once covered them. Here especially may be witnessed the w^eird and deceptive 'mirage,' which creates before the vision of the tired and thirsty wayfarer enchanting pictures of ponds and lakes, bordered with shady trees and turf, only to dissolve them upon nearer approach and leave in their place salty desolation, which seems all the more desolate for the fleeting vision of- beauty. But man untiringly wrests from even these unfriendly wastes their stores of wealth — borax and salt. "The desert shows a great variety of the most attractive scenery in its ever changing hues, cliffs, canyons, extinct volcanoes, lava beds and sandy plains. A landscape painter would find abundant material for striking pictures every- where, but especially among the gulches and precipices of ■Red Rock' and 'Iron' canyons, which have but recently been brought most prominently to public notice by the dis- covery of e.xtensive and rich gold placers." CHAPTER XXVIII. FROM LOS ANGELES TO SANTA BARBARA ON THE SOUTHERN PACIFIC RAILWAY. The trip from Los Angeles to Saugus is the same as described in the last chapter. Here we take the Coast Line of the Southern Pacific. The first place of import- ance reached is Cainulos, now made famous as the home of Ramona. "The richly-sculptured San Fernando Mountains hem it in on the south, the foothills of the 'Sierra de San Rafael' on the north, and through the pleasant little valley between, runs the Santa Clara River. On its margins are clumps of willows and groves of wide-spreading sycamores, and near where its clear waters run by the old homestead, may be seen the 'artichoke patch,' and the 'flat stone wash- boards, on which was done all the family washing." "The house, as described by Mrs. Jackson, was the rep- resentative house of the half-barbaric, half-elegant, wholly generous and free-handed life led there by Mexican men and women of degree in the early part of this century.' The foothill pasture lands, the sheep carrols, the vine- yards, olive yards and orchards, the old Chapel, etc., etc., are all to be seen just as they are described in this interest- ing book. Mrs. Jackson's descriptions of Southern Cali- fornia scenery are exceedingly fine, and it is not a matter of wonder that she chose this beautiful spot as the home of her charming Ramona." PIRU: Population, 161. Elevation, 700 feet, S. P. Sur- vey. To Los Angeles, 49 miles. To San Fran- cisco, 435 miles. To New Orleans, 2,055 miles. 328 Tt is licrc thnt D. C. Cook, a publislicr of Sunday School prriodicals, lias an extensive ranch of 14,000 acres, of which 1,000 acres are in frnit trees and vines. The chief industries are farming and oil. A large number of oil wells have been sunk this season (1903) by the Union Oil Company. The Southern Pacific Company has opened up a new terri- tory for oil wells and a large tank sufficient to hold twenty- five cars of oil has been erected at the station. The Piru River is a trout stream and many go up to enjoy its beau- tiful scenery and mountain air, as well as the fishing. Although Piru has tlie cooling breeze of the ocean to modify its climate, fogs are rare and its days and nights are alike dry. A new schoolhouse of two rooms has just been completed and furnished. There are two good hotels, the "Piru," with a capacitj^ of 20 persons, rates $1.25 per day, $6.00 per week, F. E. Burnham, manager ; the Dune- den, capacity sixteen persons, rates $1.50 per day, $6.00 per week ; R. Dunn. FILLMORE: Population, 3S7. Elevation, 469 feet, S. P. Sur- vey. To Los Angeles, 57 miles. To San Fran- cisco, 427 miles. To New Orleans, 2,062 miles. A new and prosperous town well laid out, facing the high crags of the San Fernando Mountains on the south, keeps three large citrus fruit packing houses busy, also a fruit cannery has been erected and is doing a good busi- ness. The chief products of the country are fruit, honey, and oil. The sulphur springs and mountain sccnerv- up the Sespe Canj'on are "of interest. There is good fishing and deer and bear hunting. SANTA PAULA: Population, 3,583. Elevation, 286 feet, S. P. Survey. To Los Angeles, 67 miles. To San Francisco, 417 miles. To New Orleans, 2,072 miles. 329 Is situated in the beautiful and fertile Santa Clara Val- ley. The town was laid out in 1875, and has grown rapidly, especially since the development of the oil industry. There are a large number of profitable oil wells in the immediate neighborhood, and pipe lines, storage tanks and refinery are "all fully utilized. Much of the oil, after being refined, flows through a four-inch pipe to Hueneme wharf, eighteen miles distant, where it is received in specially constructed steamers, and thence transported to the San Francisco market. This oil industry gives the town a promise of a steady growth, which is strengthened by the fruit industry of the surrounding country. It has the "Petrolia" hotel, with a capacity for 50 persons ; rates $2.00 per day, $9.00 to $12.00 per week; Mrs. Berringer, manager. Also the Cot- tage, capacity 25, $1.25 per day, $5.00 per week. Mrs. Wood, proprietor. Leaving Santa Paula we pass through beautiful groves of eucalyptus trees, and fine orange orchards, with here and there extraordinary English walnut orchards. Lemons, limes and apricots also do well, but corn and beans are the chief products. Beans yield from 1,500 to 2,000 pounds to the acre, and have been known often to give as high as 2,500 pounds to the acre. Indeed, Ventura is the greatest bean-producing county in Southern California. SATICOY: Population, 1,163. To Los Angeles, 74 miles. To San Francisco, 410 miles. Is in the center of a rich agricultural and horticultural district. The valley here opens to about ten miles in width, and is so fertile that grain, corn, beans, potatoes, other vegetables, and all kinds of fruit, except oranges, grow in profusion. It is noted for its twenty acres of sparkling springs and its artesian wells. Its hotel is "The Charles," .330 witli a capacity for seven persons; rates $1.50 per day, $5.00 per week. Hucucmc is an important shipping point in Ventura County, and may be seen, ten miles away to our left, as we journey forward. Here are large oil tanks filled by pipe line from Santa Paula, a long wharf, and a lighthouse with a revolving light. The town is in the midst of an artesian belt, hence there is an abundance of good water and as there are over 300,000 acres of land under cultiva- tion, large quantities of grain, fruit and vegetables are shipped to other markets. Just back of Hueneme is a rich territory of several hun- dred thousand acres, a great portion of which, until recent- ly w^as virgin soil, never having been utilized for anything but grazing purposes. One of the largest of these ranches is the Simi ranch of 98,000 acres, which is now subdivided and a large portion sold to settlers. It is the subdivision of these great ranches that is destined to make the whole of Southern California rich and densely populated. A [OX PAL VO: Population, 426. To Los Angeles, 7S miles. Is a comparativeh' recent town, and, being well located and w^ith a rich country to back it up, is destined to grow. Nearby is an apricot orchard containing 1,500 acres, and there are many walnut orchards also. It is one of the principal shipping points of the coast line, and is the junction of the Southern Pacific branch to OXNARD : Population, nearly 2.000. To Los Angeles, S3 miles. To San Fi'ancisco, 400 miles. It's site four years ago was an ordinary productive ranch. To-day it has fine brick business blocks, beautiful homes, 331 four churches, 400 school children, school huildings cost- ing $48,000, good hotels, a hank and one of the largest beet-sugar factories in America. The factory can crush 2,000 tons of beets dail3^ It produced last year several hundred carloads of sugar, a hundred carloads of beans, and a large amount of grain, nuts and potatoes. Several thou- sand head of cattle are being successfully fed on beet pulp. Oxnard has a fine avenue to a fine ocean beach, thirty minutes' drive. It is well located in the fertile Santa Clara Valley (not to be confused with the larger Santa Clara Valley of whicli San Jose is the center) The Oxnard factory was built five years ago at a cost of $2,000,000. It covers a tract of one hundred acres, upon which stand factory buildings, offices, boilers and sugar- houses, rotary lime kilns, vertical lime kilns, oil and stor- age tanks, etc., while the twin smokestacks, one hundred and fifty-five feet high and the ninety-five feet high lime kilns form notable landmarks. The raw beets are dumped into great storage bins, then they are well washed and conveyed on belts to the top of the building to drop into automatic scales, which weigh half a ton. From the scales they drop into the slicers, round bins with sharp knives set in revolving disks which cut them into long, slender strips. An endless belt con- veys the sliced beets to the dift\ision batteries, where the saccharine matter is extracted, and the piece, passing into tanks, undergoes a series of processes both chemical and mechanical until it is ready for the vacuum pans. The juice after being clarified and evaporated and filtered, is l)oiled at a low temperature in these pans, three in number, each with a capacity of five hundred and fifty barrels of sugar. After boiling, the crystalizers and then the mixers prepare the syrup for the centrifugals. The Steffins pro- cess is used for extracting the sugar, which, after passing 332 llirougli the gramilators and dried, is packed into one hnn drcd pound sacks and is ready for market. Last year the company handled two hundred and fifty thousand tons of beets, which netted the farmers over a million and a quarter dollars, and the employes another half million. Somis, on the Oxnard branch now, but within a year to be on the new main coast line. Somis is to be a town of importance. From an elevation of 250 feet it overlooks the pretty Las Posas Valley and the ocean, eleven miles away. Beans, nuts, citrus and deciduous fruits all do well here, and fine crops of barley, corn, w-heat and oats are grown. VENTURA : Population, 2,470. To Los Angeles, 83 miles. To San Francisco, 400 miles. To New Orleans, 2,081 miles. Is the ancient town of San Buenaventura. It is the county seat of Ventura County, and of late years has aroused itself and is now rapidly growing and improving. A new building restriction that prohibits wooden buildings being erected on Main Street helps to keep the town in a progressive state. It is lighted with electricity furnished by the Ven- tura Water, Light, and Power Company. This company owns the city waterworks,^which supplies the city with good water. The water rates are regulated by the city. Be- sides the stores and business houses necessary to a city of this size, Ventura has two halls. Armory and Union, a city hall, public library, fire department, public school buildings — the grammar with fourteen teachers employed, and the L^nion high school, with seven teachers. There are seven churches, as follows : Presbyterian, on Oak Street, Rev. C. B. Burtham, pastor; M. E. Church, on Oak Street, Rev. J. S. Morrison, pastor; Episcopal, on Oak 333 Street, Rev. C. B. Rogers ; Congregational, Santa Clara Street, Rev. C. N. Queen, pastor; Christian Church, Santa Clara Street, Rev. J. C. Wickham, pastor; M. E. South, Main Street, Rev. Wade Hamilton, pastor; Catholic Church, Rev. P. Gorgan, pastor. The four banks are : The Bank of Wm. Collins & Sons, D. E. Collins, president; J. S. Col- lins, cashier; Bank of Ventura, E. P. Foster, president, J. A. Walker, cashier; Ventura Savings Bank, E. P. Foster, president; J. H. Chaffe, cashier; First National Bank. Ventura has the county, or Bard, memorial hospital. This and the Rose Hotel are two of the most prominent build- ings of the place. Among the societies of Ventura are the Knights Templar, E. T. and A. M., Eastern Star, R. A. Masons, K. P., Rath- bons, M. W. A., A. O. U. W. Fraternal Brotherhood, A. O. Foresters, W. C. T. U., Y. AI. C. A., and Y. W. C. A. The city officials are : City attorney, Ed. M. Silby ; city clerk, E. W. R. Isensee; city marshal, J. M. Kaiser; city treasurer, Mrs. H. R. McDonell ; night watchman, Henry Arillanes. The city trustees are : President, J. S. Collings, S. N. Shaw, N. Vickers, A. Carret, and W. H. Wild. The board meets the first Alonday of each month. The library trustees are: J. A. Walker, J. E. Reynolds, P. W. Kaufifman, J. B. Wagner, and D. J. Ruse. The tax rate of the city is $2.40; county tax $2.00. The city has good telephone and telegraph systems, and two newspapers, the Free Press, and Ventura Democrat. It is a stopping place for the steamers of the Pacific Coast Steamship Company, and with its wharf, large ware- houses, a flour mill, and cannery it employs many men. It ships beans from its vast and fertile fields by the trainloads. The town is beautifully situated on the Ventura River, and lies on a slope of the foothills of a mountain ridge, which 334 rises to an elevation of 1,500 to 2,000 feet above the sea. Tiic town faces the ocean towards the west. The side- walks of the business streets are cemented. The beach affords an enjoyable pleasure resort, and sea- bathing is indulged in all throughtut the year. There i = also good salt water fishing and trout fishing in the Ven- tura River. Excursion parties arc often made up to visit the group of the Santa Barbara Islands, which lie in the channel in full view. The San Buenaventura Mission, founded in 1782 and mori_- fully described in the Chapter on Missions should be re- membered, and visited by the traveler for around these old scarred walls lies much of the early history of San Buenaventura. Off to the west from Ventura is the Ojai Valley branch of tlic Soutiicni Pacific A ride on this road is highly com- mended to the attention of the intelligent traveler. Tlie Ojai Valley. The climate of this world famed val- ley being a happy medium between the heavy and often fog- ladened air of the immediate coast, and the extreme light- ness and dryness of the more interior mountain heights, is to a verj' great degree beneficial to people afflicted with throat or lung trouble or rheumatism. The Ojai Valley has been rightly called the "Asthmatic's Paradise," because there are few people afflicted with this distressing and whimsical ailment, who cannot here take a long, deep breath of good pure air without wheezing. The Ojai X'aliey is a general term given to two small hill valleys — the Lower Ojai and the Upper Ojai — the two being connected by a good graded and well kept road. The vil- lage of Nordhoff is in about the center of the lower val- ley, which, in size, is about ten miles long and three miles wide, and has a mean elevation of nearly i.ooo feet. The Upper Ojai is much smaller, and has an altitude of from 335 i,ioo to 1,300 feet; it was first settled up, however, and has several large and very rich farms or ranches under thorough cultivation and producing large annual crops of fruits which, are known for quality and variety. A can- nery of recent date is of importance. Grains and general dairy, farm products and hogs are other sources of revenue. The name "Ojai," is of Indian derivation, and while its meaning is not certain, it is presumed to signify "nest." It is not difficult to imagine either of the valleys to be greatly enlarged birds' nests, from their general shape they being mountain-locked. The name spelled "Ojai," is pronounced "Oh-hi, — but very good authority on Indian lore says it should be pronounced "Oh-ha-hee," which is certainly more musical than the shorter "Oh-hi." Besides the wonderfully bracing air, which is of so much benefit to people out of health, the Ojai offers much to pleasure-seekers and to home-seekers. In the valley, and within an hour's or two hours' ride, are some of the choicest bits of scenery enraptured artists ever depicted upon canvas ; botanists, geologists, mineralogists, and especially anchasol- ogists, find here a rich field for their labors. The Ojai is a most desirable home place, not alone because the climate and soil combined will grow almost anything the sun shines upon, nor altogether because land is still com- paratively cheap and the climate gives one promise of a full life, but very largely because no better class of people, who are cosmopolitan, form any community anywhere, The village of NORDHOFF: Population, 402. To Los Angeles, 99 miles. To San Francisco, 383 miles. Is neither large nor pretentious, but is a b.omelike, pleas- ant place, built under the protecting branches of kingly live-oak trees, which, being left undisturbed in the streets 336 or wherever lliey chance to grow, give the place a decided- ly distinctive feature. The trees were here first, and the people either go under ^hem or around them. Many of the conveniences of larger places are lacking, it is true, but still there are good stores, carrying surprisingly large stocks, there is a good-sized hotel — the Ojai Inn — with a capacity for 50 persons. Rates $2.00 per day; $8.00 to $12.00 per week. Proprietor, Mrs. J. B. Eason. There is, besides, a first-class boarding house, three churches — Congregational Christian and Holiness — a livery stable, a drug store, meat market, lumber yard, modern laundry, a free library, two blacksmith shops, a bright, clean, literary-newspaper. The Ojai, which is working unceasingly for the good of the Ojai Valley. The NordhofF school district has erected a $9,000 school-house. Nordhoff is supplied with pure water, piped from the mountains on the north side of the valley, and with artesian water, piped from wells a short distance east from the village. About a mile east of Nordhoff, on Ojai avenue, on the main thoroughfare through the valley, is the Presbyterian church, and quite near the popular hotel, Gally's Cottages. Capacity for 65 persons; $2.00 per day, $10.00 to $14. ai jie' week. Pniprietor, Mrs. M. Gaily. An asphallum sidewalk is laid to connect these two places with the village. There are, also, one or two first-class boarding houses in the valley, including Dr. E. Pierpont's Sani- tarium, besides several of the ranches which occasionally accommodate boarders. Located on high ground at the eastern end of Lower Ojai Valley, is Mr. Sherman D. Thackers Casa Piedra Ranch School, a boarding and day school, where young men are prepared for any college or university in the United States. The school is one of the institutions of which the Ojai Valley is justly proud. From Nordhoff one may easily and enjoyably reach the 337 pines of the mountains at an elevation of over 4,500 feet, and within a day's horseback ride is Pine Mountain, a most popular resort. At the northwestern corner of the Lower Ojai Valley is Matilija Canyon, quite a popular resort, where a number of mineral springs are found.. From Santa Barbara, the "Flower Festival" city, the Ojai Valley is reached by a carriage drive of thirty-seven miles, which can be easily made in the daylight hours of one day, with mid-day rest and refreshment at Shepard's Mountain View House, situated about half way between the two places. The distance of this drive is offset by a charming scenic panorama, wdiich dozens of writers have described in glow- ing pen-pictures. The famous Montecito and Carpenteria valleys, and the Casitas (little houses) Pass are traversed, and at about twenty-five miles from Santa Barbara the Ventura River is crossed and the road from Ventura to Nor;lhoff can be made over a choice of two roads — the ■'grade" road, a fairly good road with pleasant scenery, or the "creek" road, which follows the meanderings of San Antonio creek, and presents the most charming "wood and water" scenes — the most abrupt and unexpected pictures, of any road the writer is acquainted with. Nezv Jerusalem. — This is a twenty-year-old settlement, and is situated about seven miles due east from Santa Clara River. There is a small though growing population with post and express offices, hotel, stables, general merchandise stores, etc. The land around about is exceedingly fertile and profitable. CARPINTERIA: Population, about 500. To Los Angeles. 100 miles. To San Francisco, .384 miles. To New Orleans, 2,10fi miles. 338 And now leaving Ventura, wc will proceed on our way to Santa Barbara. Skirting the ocean on one side and high mountains on the other, through cactus, sage brush and grassy nooks, with, now and then, perpendicular cliffs of i,ooo feet height to our left; by numerous Mexican cabins, where we may see wooden plows, old carretas, burros, goats, bare- footed, black-eyed babies, wc journey for seventeen miles to the old Spanish settlement of Carpinteria, located pret- tily in the midst of large and thriving fruit and walnut orchards, strawberry beds, and bean fields. The Walnut Growers' Association have a fine dipping plant and ware- house and the lemon growers have a curing house. The walnut business is growing rapidly and is very profitable. Here is located the great grapevine which is known, and has been pictured throughout the world. It is 8 feet 6 inches in circumference, and is undoubtedly the largest in the world, outclassing the celebrated English vine at Hamp- ton Court. The branches cover an arbor of over lOO feet square. It bore in 1896, 10 tons of grapes. Mr. Wilson, the owner, has from time to time received flattering offers for this great vine, but being his chief pride it is not for sale. It is over sixty years old. Travelers will enjoy a visit to Shepard's Inn, also a mountain pleasure resort and hotel. J. E. Shepard, proprietor, also Shepard's Camp grounds — sulphuric springs for bathing, etc. J. H. Shepard. proprie- tor. The beach is fine for bathing and driving. Franklin's Canyon, which is a beautiful wooded canyon, is also worthy a visit. In Carpinteria the Hotel Daerr will accommodate 6 per- sons ; $1.25 per day; $4.00 per w^eek. Phill. Daerr, proprie- tor. The Presbyterian, ^Methodist, Baptist, Episcopalian, Holiness and Catholics have church buildings and hold reg- ular services. Five organized societies are well represented : Woman's Club, Farmers' Club, Modern Woodmen, K. of 339 P. and Debating Club. A new industry of this enterprising lown is the excavations at the wharf for manufacturing salt from ocean water. SUMMERLAND : Population, 425. To Los Angeles, 105 miles. To San Francisco, 379- miles. To New Orleans, 2,111 miles. Possesses a fine hotel, two restaurants, two groceries, a drug store and a candy store. It has also a postoffice, transfer and livery, an express office, a barber shop, a blacksmith shop and a paint shop. It is a community of spiritualists, and here the peculiar tenets of this religious body are given free scope, as it is the religion of the major portion of the inhabitants. Here is the most remarkable oil field in the world. The sailors first noticed an oily film on the surface of the water of the Pacific in these parts. Later, deposits of petroleum along the shore where Snmmerland now stands were dis- covered. It was not until long after the settlement of the town and natural gas had been discovered and used for fuel and light that the oil wells were opened up. At first the prospectors restricted themselves to land wells, but finally is was found that the oil field extended into the ocean. Wharves were built and they commenced to bore for oil under the sea. Now there are something like a dozen wharves with derricks and pumping machinery and all necessary paraphernalia for refining oil. These wharves are from 250 to 300 feet long and 24 feet wide. There are 300 wells at Summerland, some of them yielding from 15 to 20 barrels a day. IMONTECITO : Population, 640. To Los Angeles, lOS miles. Although this charming and picturesque spot is reached on 340 the railway some tlirec miles before arriving at Santa Bar- bara, it is, in reality, one of its suburbs. Rev. E. P. Roe, the gifted writer, speaks of Montecito as "a villa region of blossoming gardens and green lawns." Here grew the monster grapevine that was cut down and removed to the Centennial Exhibition at Philadelphia. This vine's trunk was eighteen inches in diameter, and its foliage covered an area equal to 10,000 square feet. It has produced in one year 12,000 pounds of grapes. There is another vine grow- ing here which bids fair to equal the parent vine. It is one of the enjoyments of travelers, staying for a while in Santa Barbara, to drive -to Montecito. The private residences, surrounded by orchards, well-kept grounds and flowers galore, are a great source of interest, and as one catches new vistas all the time of mountains, valley, ocean and islands, the variety becomes more than ordinarily at- tractive. The Grove House is pleasantly situated, and surrounded by a fine grove of oak trees, affording shelter on the hottest day, and where a cool breeze from the ocean at all times may be enjoyed. Another pleasant resting place at Montecito, is Miramar. This beautiful home is located in a charming spot, and is embowered in a rose-garden where semi-tropical foliage abounds. On the one hand is the ocean beach, with its innumerable attractions, and where bathers may be seen sporting in the surf almost every day in the year; on the other hand, the glorious Santa Ynez mountains, with the famous Hot Sulphur Springs, only 2j^ miles distant. CHAPTER XXIX. SANTA BARBAKA. Santa Barbara was founded in 1782 and of the old Pres- idio, no trace remains save some sliglit mounds where the walls crumbled away years ago. It stood near the intersec- tion of Santa Barbara and Canyon Perdido streets, and around it in the early days clustered the adobe dwellings of the first residents, for it was a frontier garrison of old Spain, and the Spanish flag floated over the walls. This The Potter Hotel, Santa Barbara, section of the city is still largely inhabited by Spanish- speaking people who comprise about one-fifth or one-sixth of the city's population. Here are still found the quaint adobe homes, some of them perhaps a century old. They form a most picturesque portion of the city, for they were built before the streets were laid out and were arranged without regard to the points of the compass in a delight- fully hap-hazard way. 342 Just off tlic city's main street and facing the City Hall Plaza, is the former residence of Governor Dc la Guerra, still occupied by his family. It is quite a large building, being some 150 feet in length with wings of 100 feet each, extending toward the street and partially enclosing a court- yard or patio. Here in the olden days was the society cen- ter of town, and here took place the remarkable series of festivities so pleasantly described by Dana in his "Two Years Before the 'ast." At the corner of State and Car- rillo streets is the building occupied by Gen. Fremont as headquarters after his capture of Santa Barbara in 1846. It is also of adobe, and although once pretentious, is now going to decay. Along the business streets still remain some of these old-time structures, the quaint tile roofs look- ing antique enough beside their new neighbors in pressed brick or stone. But of all the memorials of by-gone days none equal in interest the grand old Mission elsewhere fully described. Santa Barbara is on the main coast line of the Southern Pacific Railway, no miles west of Los Angeles and 373 miles sovitheast of San Francisco. By means of the fine vessels of the Pacific Coast Steamship Company, Santa Barbara has steamship connection north and south with all Pacific Coast points, there being a steamer every other day. The city has a most excellent street car system, with fre- quent service, and all kinds of carriages are available for taking a ride over the many drives about the city and sub- urbs. A feature of Santa Barbara is its coaching and tal- ly-ho parties. These are an attraction at all times of the year, but especially during the winter season. The church facilities of Santa Barbara are exceptionally good, all the leading denominations being represented. All the fraternal societies are represented, some with large and influential memberships. 343 One of the foremost institutions in the city is a most ex- cellent free public library of some 15,000 volumes, com- fortably and conveniently located. Santa Barbara is eminently a social city, and in addi- tion to church and fraternal society fellowship, has many social clubs. The principal of these latter organizations are the Country Club, with most delightful headquarters and grounds about two miles east of Santa Barbara on the shore of the bay, and the Santa Barbara Club, with com- modious quarters, centrally located in the city. An Island Wonderland. — Across the Channel from Santa Barbara and forming a part of that county are the moun- tainous islands of San Miguel, Santa Rosa, Santa Cruz and Anacapa, in the order named, beginning at the west end of the group. San Miguel and Anacapa, the western and eastern outposts, are owned by the United States, but the two larger islands are the property of private persons. Santa Cruz and Santa Rosa are nearly equal in area, con- taining over 50,000 acres each, but Santa Cruz is the more interesting and picturesque, owing to the very mountainous character of much of its surface and the wonderful caverns and chambers which the winds and waves through many ages have hollowed out along the precipitous shores. Anacapa, the smallest of the group, has been eaten into three portions by the action of the waves and mighty col- umns and arches which at the eastern extremity is all that is left of what was formerly the solid earth, show how the island is gradually being devoured by the insatiable sea. These islands are growing in popularity as most desira- ble places for a summer outing, and parties are frequent- ly made up at Santa Barbara for a week's or a month's so- journ amid this wonderful group. Yachts, schooners and launches ply across the channel and an opportunity may be had at any time to visit these remarkable remains of vol- 344 caiiic upheaval. The waters thereabouts teem with fish of many species, prominent among them being the gamey tuna. Whales and sharks also disport themselves in the trans- parent waters, and the whole locality is a paradise for the lovers of piscatorial sports. Amid the Peaks. — Island and bay, shore and foothills, are not the whole story of Santa Barbara's charms. There are heights and beauties beyond and the towering Santa Ynez, that, like a mighty wall guards this happy valley from Bo- reas' chilling breath, holds within its canyons, gorges, and defiles, a never-ending series of delights. Though but 4,000 feet in height, yet so near are the mountains to the sea, that in apparent elevation they vie with peaks of twice that height located farther inland. From every spur as one mounts towards their rocky crests, the widening scene grows more grandly beautiful until the culmination is reached at La Cumbre's pinnacle and the mighty panorama of ocean, island, valley, city and foothill, is spread below. This grand mountain range is now a part of the gov- ernment system of Forest Reserves, and is henceforth to be a great park of the people. Trails lead up to its heights and traverse its summits, and at the San Marcos Pass, 14 miles west of Santa Barbara, a wagon road, famous for the beautiful scenery along the way, crosses to the valley be- yond. Highzvay and Trail. — Visitors at Santa Barbara find in the numerous drives and trails great attraction. These avenues leading in every direction through the valley, threading the shady recesses of innumerable canyons, climb- ing spur and crag and peak, offer to the traveler and sight- seer, endless trips of constantly changing interest. Through the Santa Ynez Forest Reserve the government has built a fine system of trails, one of the most important being the summit trail which follows the ridge of the 345 range from the Ojai to the Refugio, a distance of between 70 and 80 miles. To connect with this system the citizens of Santa Barbara, by private subscription, in 1902, construct- ed an excellent trail from the Mountain Drive, one of the most popular thoroughfares near Santa Barbara. From the city to the summit the distance is about 12 miles, be- tween eight and nine of which is in the mountains. The path runs along the walls of canyons, over lofty spurs, across picturesque ridges, through groves of pine, till the summit is reached. Surf and Plunge. — One of the chief summer delights is the bathing, both surf and plunge, for Santa Barbara has now one of the most beautiful and complete bathing estab- lishments on the Pacific Coast, the popularity of which, though only erected in 1901 at a cost of $40,000, has al- ready made necessary two additions to its size. Population. — Santa Barbara has a permanent population of between 8,D00 and 10,000 persons, but during the winter season this number is swelled by the presence of several thousand visitors. Tlie Potter Hotel.- — The magnificent hostelry erected in 1902 on the shore of the bay, has supplied the need long felt for a commodious hotel with a service of sufficient ele- gance to meet the demands of twentieth century luxury. This colossal caravansary of comfort, though only opened for guests in January, 1903, is already filled to its utmost capacity of a thousand visitors, by people from all parts of. the nation. It is a marvel of comfort, elegance and safe- ty. Every room is an outside exposure with direct light. The view from its windows,^ north, east, south and west, covering the fairest landscape in America, is unequalled. At night, ten thousand electric lights are the enchantment that puts to flight eevry suggestion of darkness. The famous Arlington, for many years the best hotel in 346 Soulhcrn California, ofTcrs exceedingly comfortable quar- ters, a most excellent cuisine and good service. Recent im- provements and additions make it a most satisfactory home, cither for the transient or the steady guest. In the business section the New Morris and the Mascarcl meet the requirements of those who desire good sub- stantial accommodations at moderate figures. In addition to the hotels, Santa Barbara has a large num- ber of private boarding houses of superior excellence. To name them all would exceed our space, but Islamar, The De la Vina, The Upham, Mrs. Rainey's, Mrs. Crane's, Baxter Terrace, Miss Martin's and Miss Lampson's are fairly representative. There are also many rooming houses, and furnished rooms can be secured in all parts of the city. The cost of living is somewhat higher than in the east, owing largely to the greater cost of service. The necessaries of life, how- ever, compare favorably in price with the same articles in any part of the country. Rents are a little higher than a year ago, but are still moderate. Furnished cottages rent for $25 per month upward. Unfurnished houses from $12 to $50 per month. Climate. — Temperature tables are important. The follow- ing is the thermometer's record for the last ten years : — Temperature. — — Temperature. — Highest. Lowest. Highest. Lowest. Year. Degrees. Degrees. Year. Degrees. Degrees. 1892 97 37 1897 93 32 1893 88 38 1898 95 34 r894 94 33 1899 93 29 1895 91 37 1900 96 40 1896 98 39 1901 96 35 Only once, as shown above, has the mercury dropped be- 347 low freezing during the last ten years, and then but three degrees just before sunrise. The noon temperature of the same day was 52 degrees. During these ten years the ther- mometer registered above 89 degrees on 210 days, or an av- erage of but 21 days in the year. The number of days above 90 degrees was but 13 in the ten years, or a frac- tion over one day per year. The warmest night in ten years was 67 degrees, and there were but two of those. Persons who think our summers must be hot because our winters are so mild, will read the above figures with in- terest. The rare occasions of a high temperature for a few nours only, once or twice a year, are accompaniments ot c dry atmosphereic current from the interior, and consequent- are devoid of the oppressiveness of a humid eastern at- mosphere at a like temperature. The average velocity of the wind is four miles per hour, being 3.6 miles for the winter months, 4.5 for the spring months, 4.4 for the summer months and 3.4 for the fall months. This low wind movement is responsible in a measure for the low humidity of the atmosphere in Santa Barbara, some- thing without a parallel for a shore climate. This humidi- ty has an annual average of 71 per cent. The humidity of the winter months, when a high degree would chill, is only 67 per cent., and in the foothill districts but 53 per cent. Tlie Bay of Santa Barbara is as renowned for its beauty as that of famed Naples which it so much resembles. From Point Santa Barbara where the lighthouse stands like a sen- tinel in white, eastward to Rincon, the shore sweeps in a great circle of uniform curve, fifteen miles in length, now with wave-lapped sandy shore, then rising into low bluffs that bound oak-dotted mesas. Small sail-boats and yachts lie at anchor the year round. The bay opens to the wide Channel of Santa Barbara, so named long before the town 348 The Arlington Hotel, Santa Barbara. existed. East and west this important body of thermal waters is some seventy miles in length with a width of from twenty-five to thirty miles. It is the speedway of Uncle Sam's warships when they are tested by a trial run. For yachting or boating the Santa Barbara Channel offers ample sea-room yet so protected by the mountainous island chain on the south and the elevated shore of the main- land on the north as to be entirely safe at all times. CHAPTER XXX. FROM LOS ANGELES TO SAN PEDRO ON THE SOUTHERN PACIFIC RAILROAD. The towns on the San Pedro and Long Beach branch of the Southern Pacific Railroad to be here described are Florence, Lynwood, Compton, Long Beach, Wilmington and San Pedro. Five miles from Los Angeles Florence is reached. This growing little village is situ- ated in the heart of a rich agricultural country, and used to be one of the finest wine-growing regions in Southern California. It comprised, among the large ranches, Nad- eau's Vineyard of 3,000 acres, one of the largest in the world. It has good schools, a church, stores, etc., and an excellent water supply. Lymvood is a small way station, nine miles from Los Angeles, where there are large agricultural and dairy in- terests. Compton (population, 655), ten miles from Los Angeles, has fine school houses, including a $15,000 brick high school, well attended churches, good stores and all the needful shops, etc., which make up an independent town. A cheese factory, large dairies and a paper mill, all doing a large business, are in full operation. There are about 6,000 acres in beet. The principal soil is alluvial. There are fine artesian wells, and good crops are generally as- sured. The apples grown here are of fine flavor and large size. Most of the secret orders have a lodge with goodly memberships. The "Enterprise" is the weekly paper, edi- ted by Jas. H. Bennett. The "Compton" is the hotel, rates $1.25 per day. Wilmington is twenty miles from Los Angeles and two 350 miles nortiicast of San Pedro. This town was founded by the late General Phineas Banning, in 1858, who was so intimately connected with the development of Los Angeles County. Tt has a population of upwards of one thousand people, with several churches, schools, stores of every kind, and is a lively and progressive little town. San Pedro is twenty-two miles from Los Angeles, and is the Pacific Coast terminus of the Southern Pacific Rail- road. San Pedro is a city of the sixth class, and a large amount of shipping and freighting is done. Readers of Dana's "Two Years Before the Mast," will remember his interesting descriptions of this place. The first steamer to enter the harbor was "The Gold Hunter," in 1849. Paci- fic Coast steamers, plying up and down the coast, land passengers and freight at San Pedro. The town is well provided with stores, a weekly newspaper, public school, churches and large lumber yards. Yachts are to be found in the harbor and much boating is indulged in. San Pedro Harbor. — This is the largest work of the kind now in progress on the American coast. Congress has voted $2,000,000 for the outer break-water, and the work is already so far advanced that the bay feels the sheltering effect. The bay of San Pedro is almost a natural harbor, and with the break-water a large area is enclosed where ships of any tonnage ma}' ride at anchor. In addition to this, Congress has recently voted $375,000 for the initial expenses of the Inner Harbor, where docks are to be excavated and wharves erected. This great national undertaking has directed the atten- tion of the continent to this locality. Here is to be the great sea port of the southwest. It is nearer to the pro- posed Isthmian canal ; it is the terminus of the shortest line across the continent; it is on the direct route to our eastern possessions, to the Australias, and to the great 351 nations of the Orient. In short, San Pedro is the coming seaport of the Pacific, and the Pacific is the Mediterra- nean of the future. Our National Government has shown its confidence in these anticipations by the enormous grants of public monej' which it has made on the strength of them. From the Los Angeles Times of November i, 1903, I extract the following: "Work on the great sea wall was commenced April 26, 1899. It lagged in its early stages on account of the in- ability of the original contractors, Messrs. Heldmaier & Neu, of Chicago, to dump the rock as fast as the govern- ment required them to do. The contract was next awarded to the California Construction Company of San Francisco, on more favorable terms. It commenced work August 24, 1900, and has steadily carried it forward to the satisfaction of the government engineers. At the present rate of pro- gress it will take about three years more to finish the great break-water, which is one of the largest in the United States. Up to October i, there had been delivered 1,235,456 tons of rock for the substructure, and 27,000 tons for the su- perstructure, or top dressing of the wall. The deliveries for the present month will increase the figures to about a round 1.300,000, and by December i, the contractors will have earned just about one-half of the contract price, $1,187,773, the whole amounting to $2,375,546. Their earn- ings up to October i amounted to $1,126,253, but until the contract is half completed, 10 per cent, of the amount earned is held back by the government as protection against loss in case of abandonment of the contract before com- pletion of the job. The substructure is completed for a distance of about 6,200 linear feet, with only about 2,300 feet more to do. 352 The sea wall begins i.QCX) feet from shore, and will Ijc 8,500 feet long when completed. The trestle from which the rock is dumped is completed for 6,620 feet of this dis- tance. Piles for the remaining 1,880 feet will not driven until the break-water is practically finished to the spot where the trestle now ends. The superstructure of the San Pedro breakwater has been completed, with the exception of the top layer, for a dis- tance of 730 feet on the ocean side and 918 feet on the harbor side of the wall. The contract price for the sub- structure is 84.4 cents per ton, and $3.10 per ton for the superstructure. The mean low water depth is 24 feet at the shore end of the breakwater, and it increases in depth gradually to 48 feet at about one-third of the distance from the shore end, and averages 50 feet depth the remainder of the dis- tance to the sea wall end of the wall. At 50 feet depth the base of the wall is igi feet in breadth. The substructure, which consists chiefly of sandstone from the Chatsworth and Catalina Island quarries, dumped at random, is 38 feet wide at the top. On the harbor side it has the natural slope of i vertical to i 1-3 horizontal. On the ocean side the slope is only i to 3, down to the plane of rest, 12 feet below mean low water; from there on it is the natural slope of i to i 1-3. The superstructure, only a small section of which has been laid as yet, is to consist of granite blocks, roughly rectangular in shape, laid in the form of steps — four cours- es of them on the ocean side and seven courses on the harbor side. The blocks on the ocean side must weigh not less than 16,000 pounds each ; those on the harbor side, 6,000 pounds each. The crest of the superstructure is to be 20 feet in width and 14 feet above the top of the substructure. The granite used for the top dressing comes from the De- 353 clez and Casa Blanca quarries, and is very expensive in handling. It is much harder to spHt in square-faced chunks than the eastern granite, which has regular lines of cleav- age, while the Southern California granite is of the "curly" variety, and will not split evenly. One thing that interests visitors to the breakwater is the display of marine life on the protected side of the wall. The newly dumped stones are already covered with sea urchins, sea anemones, sea cucumbers, star fish and other tenacious creatures, while an occasional crawfish and my- riads of the smaller members of the fifiny tribe are nearly always in evidence. On the ocean side of the wall a mile or - two of kelp is lashed about by the waves that spend their fury in buffeting the granite buttresses. While work is progressing on the breakwater to make the outer harbor a safe haven of refuge and afford dock- age for ships of the deepest draught, there are also things doing in the inner harbor at San Pedro. The work of deepening the interior basin by dredging has "been in pro- gress for a long time under contract, but the government is now having its own dredge built, and will soon be ready to put its own crew to work in scooping out the bottom of the bay according to the plans recommended by the late Captain Meyler and approved by the Chief of Engineers, United States Army, and for the accomplishment of which Congress has made an appropriation. Raymond A. Perry of San Francisco, who has the con- tract for deepening the channel from the entrance to the in- ner harbor to and in front of the principal wharves to a depth of 20 feet at mean low tide, has but recently finished removing 250,000 cubic yards of dirt with the 20-inch suc- tion dredge Olympian, which was burned in the upper harbor. The sand and mud removed by thi Olympian was deposited behind bulkheads built along the harbor 554 lines, and considcra1)le new land was thus created along the San Pedro water front. A mile out from San Pedro, on the peninsula, is Point firmin Lighthouse, where a pleasant afternoon may be spent. The lighthouse is in charge of most court- eous attendants who find pleasure in describing the man- ipulation of the lights to visitors. The S. P. R. R. divides into two parts at Thenard Junc- tion, four miles from San Pedro, one portion reaching that port and the other making a curve to the left, and in four miles reaching Long Beach, at a distance of 22 miles from Los Angeles. This pretty little town is fully described in the chapter on the Salt Lake Railway. ^^^>'W^' CHAPTER XXXI. FROM LOS ANGELES TO WHITTIER^ SANTA ANA AND TUSTIN ON THE SOUTHERN PACIFIC. There is little of anything new to describe on the line of the Southern Pacific Railroad to Whittier, until Downey is reached, eleven miles from Los Angeles. This town was first laid out in 1873, when the Southern Pacific was built to Santa Ana. It has a small but growing popu- lation, -largely agricultural. The soil is mostly of a moist character, so that no irrigation is needed. The products are chiefly walnuts, apricots, vegetables, with quantities of butter and eggs. The whole region is peculiarly adapted to the growth of walnuts, and the traveler, driving through the country, will be astonished at the large number of walnut groves in ex- cellent condition to be found. The town has schools, churches and stores, and two hotels. Shidebakcr, fifteen miles from Los Angeles, is a settle- ment named after the great carriage builders of Indiana, who have bought considerable property in the neighborhood. Fulton IVells and Santa Fe Springs are practically the same. The name was given to the springs because the wells were bored by Dr. Fulton, who organized and con ducted the sanitarium built for the benefit of invalids. Com- fortable cottages, a large hotel and an excellent bath house have been erected. Los Nietos, seventeen miles from Los Angeles, is in the midst of a farming and dairy region, and large quantities of walnuts are shipped. Whittier, elevation, 239 feet; population, 5,000. To Los Angeles, twenty miles, is a beautifully located town, 356 stalled in 1889 by a body of Quakers from Indiana, Illin- ois and Iowa, wlio named their town after the beloved Quaker poet, and said "there we will make our home." It is on the southwestern slope and end of the Puente Hills. In the fifteen years that have passed, five thousand people traveling through Southern California have passed that same way, and repeated those same words. What a trans- formation in that tract lying by the Puente foothills ! Where fields of barley or patches of mustard grew, or great mesas stretched barren and lifeless save where some lonely shep- herd followed his wandering flock, now, with her head pillowed in the lap of the foothills, her skirts in great plaids of green spread over the valley, lies the fair city of Whit- tier. Whittier has almost doubled her population in two years, from one thousand five hundred and sixty in 1900, to three thousand in 1902. In the same time bank deposits in the cily have increased from $90,000.00 to $275,000.00. It is a fact that in the last six months more than $90,000.00 have been invested in buildings; a $12,000.00 church, two $12,- 000.00 school buildings, a $15,000.00 Odd Fellows' Hall, besides scores of beautiful residences. A fire department has been organized, a building erected and an ample equip- ment secured. The city has been lighted with electricity and 25,000 feet of gas main have been laid. A complete system of interurban electric railway is in operation, the Pacific Electric, giving half hourly service to Los Angeles. A new $25,000.00 high school building within the year, a city hall, and a dozen miles of cement sidewalks are not far in the future. There is no city of its size in the world which has a greater wealth-producing territory tributary to it. The 10,000 acres of orchards which lie in a great crescent at its feet, would alone assure permanent prosperi- ty. 357 It is very generally granted that the San Gabriel Valley district, which adjoins the City of Whittier, is the finest Englrsh walnut region in California. The products this year will reach 50,000 sacks, a valuation of $450,000.00. The walnut-growers are strongly associated for mutual protec- tion, and so able is the management that this district prac- tically controls the walnut prices of America. It IS another significant fact that the first car of Cali- fornia oranges shipped this year was packed in Whittier. Last year 200 carloads of oranges and 150 of lemons were shipped, and the output this year will make an increase of 50 to 100 cars. Three leading companies alone disbursed $135,000.00 to growers of citrus fruits in this district the past season. Ten acres of ten-year-old citrus or walnut trees afford an ample competency, yielding an average an- nual income of $2,000,00 to $3,000.00.. Whittier orchards have never known the touch of frost. Amid the walnut and citrus groves flourish peaches and apricots and pears and apples and plums. Underneath the spreading branches are gardens which make the house- keeper's task easy — tomatoes, peas, beans and strawberries, even in January; lettuce and radishes fresh every day in the year — and flowers! roses, carnations, lilies, English violets and golden poppies. Oil was discovered six years ago. Though the field is scarcely entered yet, the monthly output has reached 60,- 000 barrels. As the shallow wells of the first drilling are being deepened to 2,200 feet, still greater reservoirs of still better oil are being tapped, and the store is shown to be practically exhaustless. There are nine churches, and no saloons in Whittier. The interest in schools and the difficulty of furnishing fa- cilities to keep pace with that interest is shown in the two commodious grammar school buildings just completed; in 358 the bonds voted for a magnificent new home for the high school which has grown so rapidly since its inception ; in the royal way Whitticr College has been supported and biiil' up until it affords opportunities for higher education un- excelk'd by any like institution. Whittier has good hotels open the year through. These are the Grcenleaf, capacity for 50 persons. Rates, $2.00 per day, $7.00 per week. C. W. Harvey, manager. Hotel Whittier, capacity for 24 persons. Rates, $1.00 per day, $6.00 per week. W. L. Stafford, manager. The Thompson, capacity for ID persons; $1.00 per day, $5.00 per week. \V. O. Thompson, manager. The Whittier State School, one of the two reform schools in California, is situated near the town of Whittier, twelve miles southeast of Los Angeles. One hundred and sixty acres of highly cultivated land belong to the school. The grounds are laid out in lawns, groves, playgrounds, vegetable and flower gardens, and or- chards of various kind, citrus and deciduous. The main buildings are twelve in number. The Admin- istration building contains the Superintendent's apartments and offices, Trustee's rooms, assembly hall, library rooms, containing four thousand volumes, school rooms, officers' aportmcnts, boys' dormitories, play rooms, lavatories, hos- pital rooms, etc. The Administration building will accom- modate three hundred boys. The Refectory building con- tains the Commissary department, officers' and boys' din- ing rooms, kitchen, bakery, butcher shop and milk room. The Trades building contains the boiler room, electric light plant of three dynamos, laundry, carpenter, tailor and shoe shops, band room and printing office with its power press- es. The photograph gallery, paint and blacksmith shops occup3^ separate buildings. The barns, horse, cattle and pig sheds and corrals and hay sheds are isolated and grouped 359 by themselves. There are twenty head of horses, forty cows, and two hundred pigs. Butchering, dairying, stock raising, pruning trees and the propagation of plants are also taught. The small boys are kept by themselves on the cot- tage plan, having their own teacher, captain and matron, playroom, lavatory, school room, etc. The Girls' Department consists of two brick buildings on the cottage plan and a trades building. Each building contains dormitory, lavatories, dining room, kitchen, school room, reception room, officers' quarters, etc. The Trades building contains sewing, dressmaking and laundry de- partments.. All the buildings are heated by steam and lighted by elec- tricity. All wearing apparel is made by the pupils except hats and hosiery. The pupils attend school half a day and work half a day the year round. There is a fine band of twenty pieces with modern instruments and a boys' or- chestra the services of which are in great demand outside the school. The "Whittier Boys' and Girls' Magazine" is published and printed by the pupils of the school and now ranks among the first in the country. Military training and dis- cipline is made a special feature. Visitors are admitted any day between ten and four o'clock, except Saturday and Sunday. The trustees are : Dr. Walter Lindley of Los Angeles, president, Hon. James Clarke of Pasadena, and Hon. Chas. Prager of Los Angeles. The Superintendent, Sherman Smith, Assistant Superintendent, Dr. W. V. Coffin. Ad- dress, Whittier, California. Now continuing our journey: Nomalk, fifteen miles from. Los Angeles, is the first town reached. This is a small village with its usual quota of churches and schoolhouses, where numerous artesian wells supply water for irrigating alfalfa and corn quite ex- tensively. Thoroughbred stock is largely raised, and but- ter, milk, eggs and cheese largely exported. It has good stores, livery stable and lumber yard. Bticna Park, twenty-one miles from Los Angeles, is an- other of the newer towns, made necessary by the settling up of the surrounding agricultural region. The soil here is damp and well adapted to all agricultural purposes. What- ever the farmer may desire to grow can be produced here. Anaheim (elevation 133 feet), twenty-five miles from Los Angeles, is the mother colony of this county. It is the oldest settlement in Orange County, and is now second in population and commercial importance. It was laid out by wealthy Germans from San Francisco in 1857, for the purpose of testing its wine-growing power, and for thirty- five years or more it was one of the largest wine-produc- ing sections in the State. A large tract of land was purchased, planted out, and divided into lots of twenty acres each. These were eventually distributed, the stock- holders drawing lots in order to decide the location, each person receiving a town lot in addition to his own lot, leav- ing fourteen for public purposes. The residents of Anaheim have been, and are, an indus- trious, hard-working class of people. They have erected beautiful and comfortable homes, embowered them in flow- ers, planted avenues of pepper trees, acacias, sycamores and eucalyptus, but thej'^ have not sought or desired a great "boom," which would disturb their quiet and peaceful vil- lage life. But the advent of two railroads has made a great change, and now, by the infusion of new blood, the city is more modernly progressive, and its population is growing rapidly. At Mirailores, twenty-seven miles from Los Angeles, the road again branches, one portion going on to Santa Ana, ^6: the other to Tustin. Taking the direction of Santa Ana, the first town reached is Orange, thirty miles from Los Angeles. It is an incorpo- rated town full of beautiful homes, surrounded by orange and lemon groves, which yield their fortunate owners a bountiful income. The orange grows here to perfection. Peanuts also are a large and profitable crop, and potatoes, being grown on the same ground in the same year, make the land yield heavy returns. jNIost of the land is divided into farms of from five to forty acres, and, as on each one of these farms is a beautiful or homelike residence, the country round about looks more like a vast park than a farming region. The town itself is well laid out, has first- class stores, churches, schools and banks. Its hotels are good, and it has a growing public library, as well as two well-edited newspapers. The water systems are good. A street-car line connects Orange with Santa Ana, Tustin and El Modena. Two miles from Orange is Santa Ana, the county seat of Orange County, and t, ' y r's '•^^^Sk^ 362 tliirly-four miles from Los Angeles. It is an incorporated city and lias a population of 6,000. The station lays siege lo the tourist' artistic sense by a rich parterre of flowers kept refreshed and blooming tlie year through. This spot is characteristic of the entire town which abounds in wide thoroughfares bordered by lofty and graceful trees of va- rious climes. •Santa Ana is a great trading town, being the centre of numberless orange orchards and vineyards. There arc three street railway lines, several hotels, two banks and an opera house. The city is lighted by electricity, and there are several churches, all well supported and attended. There are pack- ing-houses, a planing-mill, small gasworks and other in- stitutions that demonstrate the progressive spirit of the place. The Southern Pacific Railway has a branch line running to Newport Beach. The town of Santa Ana was laid out in 1869, by Mr. W. H. Spurgeon, and it has continued to grow ever since. Its advantages are well set forth by three weekly and one daily newspaper. It has a good sized public librarj', and is, in all respects, a progressing and growing city. Returning now to Miraflores, we take the Tustin branch of the Southern Pacific Railway, passing through a rich agricultural and fruit-growing countr\', to McPherson, Vil- la Park, Wanda and El Modena. Wanda is a small station, thirty-five miles from Los An- geles. I do not know whether the great novelist, Ouida, had anything to do with naming this place,' one of her novels bearing the same name, but I know that no pen other than hers could do full justice to the charm and beauty of the ranches not far way. Villa Park is a growing and progressive little settlement, 3^3 there being excellent schools and the nucleus of an ideal Southern California colony. While situated in the valley there cannot be a more beautiful location for an ideal ranch home. Three miles further, and thirty-eight from Los Angeles, Tusihi is reached. This is one of the finest orange re- gions in all the sunny 'southland. The groves are numerous and excellent. Stretching for miles in every direction the land rolls gently, and is supplied with abundance of water from irrigating ditches. The town is in the centre of a community, whose inhabitants are known for their culture and industry. Here are broad, shaded avenues, leading to beautiful residences, surrounded by all that wealth, refine- ment and culture could provide and desire. Tustin has good schools, churches, stores and a well- conducted hotel. Few places can be better for those who wish to enjoy country life with city advantages, and the opportunity of studying the various methods of irrigation used in Orange County. CHAPTER XXXII. FROM THE NEEDLES TO SAN BERN ARDINO ON THE SANTA IF RAILWAY. NEEDLES : Population, 2,500. To Los Angeles, .310 miles. To Chicago, 1,954 miles. Just before reaching this place on the transcontinental trip on the Santa Fc System — the largest railway .system in the world, and which owns its tracks from Chica- go, via Kansas City, to the Pacific Ocean — the traveler crosses the elegant, new cantilever bridge over the slow Colorado River, which at this point gives no suggestion of the "cribb'd, cabin'd, confin'd" turbulence which dashes with roar and splash and turmoil through the crystalline mica schists of the great canyon in Arizona. Here it sleeps after its exhaustive race of five hundred miles, chased by demons and fiends, and tossed from underneath, to and fro, by giants and strong. It is as dirty and slow as the Mohave Indians who live in their wicker kaits or houses along the river, and who congregate at the Needles to greet us and wheedle from us what small coins we can spare. The remnant of a once powerful and warlike tribe, we see only the degraded and filthy of them. Their naked pappooses sitting astride their hips, or engaged in drawing nourishment from the mater- nal fount, are often picturesque enough, and, to see a dozen more youngsters of both sexes scampering through the bushes, clothed with not even a smile, gives us a singular feeling of immediate contact with "the heathen" we al- ways imagine to live somewhere else than in our own coun- try. If odors strong and overpowering and insect life ob- 365 noxious do not appeal to you, go into some of their wicki- ups. In one, not far from the depot, you will find four generations. The old grand dame appears as if she could count over a hundred years, and her semi-nude form is certainly of tanned leather or elephant skin. Her once rounded breasts are flat, flabby and filthy and give her an absolutely hideous appearance, while her eyes squint hor- ribly through suppurated lids. Their wickiups are made of wicker work, willows, co- tonwood poles and rawhide. These Indians were bad enough ere the worse fate befell them of meeting with white men who degraded them. And yet those who have studied them and lived in contact with them know that there are as true and noble hearts, even yet, to be found amongst them as amongst any people. Contact with the whites has demoralized their men and debased their women, and now they are drunkards, sen- sualists of the lowest type, and beggars who would dis- count Irish and Italian professionals, both in cunning and persistence. Their pappooses are made into sources of revenue. Strapped to and wrapped up in their ''pabeeches," swung onto the mother's back, their faces are covered up, and only on the gift of a "neekle" or a dime can you get a glimpse of the fat, podgy, clay-smeared youngster beneath. Some of the squaws have bows and arrows, crude (and rude) pottery, necklaces- of agate, obsidian and petrified wood, and various nick-nacks for sale, but they have learned of some white men to ask all they can get for arti- cles, their value being determined solely by the length of purse of the buyer. Only occasionally will you see the best of the men. Some of them are gigantic in size, robust and muscular, and are noted for their speed and staying qualities as run- 366 ncrs. I have known two or three of them to make from sixty to eighty miles in one day of twenty-four hours, on foot, and over the hot desert. .-feci:- Giant Cactus and Yucca on the Mohave Desert. The Needles themselves ought not to be overlooked. Seen by the clear moonlight, which here sheds a soft, more mellow radiance than ever seen in the East, the se- ductive twinkling stars in the far away distance, hanging as glory spots over them, the perfectly clear sky forming a delicious background for them, they stand out with a clear boldness as if a whole race of cathedral spires — Milan and Cologne cathedrals, Santa Sophia's minarets, Kremlin's towers, St. Peter's domes, with here and there an Egj-p- 367 The Colorado River and the " Needles." tian obelisk, a Jain temple, or a Japanese kiosk — were on exhibition awaiting the choice of the gods. The strength of the town lies in her great railroad fa- cilities, surrounding agricultural and mining country, all of which industries are rapidly, steadily and healthily growing. In the past four years her population has doubled, and now is safely estimated to have 2,500 people. A division point for the Santa Fe railroad, with shops employing over 300 men, the only point for a distance of 250 miles, either east or west, where a suitable and suffi- cient water supply can be obtained to warrant the sustain- ing of such shops; situated in close proximity to the banks of the Colorado river, the waters of which are being used by the river steamers in transporting freight and passengers ; thus it can be determined that Needles becomes the natural distributing point for ai vast area of country, the mineral wealth of which is becoming known in every mining center in the United States. As a mining center, Needles is young in years and small in stature, yet many thousands or dollars' worth of mininp supplies have been distributed from her stores dtiring the past four or five years. The Murphy Ice, Light and Water company has $40,000 invested in its ice plant, which has a capacity of thirty tons per day. Contract has already been made whereby th' plant will be increased to seventy-five-ton capacity. Th' same company also has $25,000 invested in a pumping plant which supplies the city with nearly a million gal- lons of water every twenty-four hours. The schools of Needles are among the best of the state and their enrollment has increased exceptionally fast. There are also churches, reading rooms and libraries, and the local paper, the Needles "Eye." The Santa Fe Division officers are : John Denair, super- intendent ; W. H. Mills, trainmaster; J. P. Jones, chief dispatcher; J. W. Wood, general foreman, bridge and building and water service ; Hugo SchaflFer, master me- chanic ; J. F. Creel, local agent. Masonic -Lodge — F. AL Kelly, W. M. ; John Armantage. secretary. Knights of Pythias — John Armantage, C. C. ; H. J. Kane, K. of R. and S. Conductors — Guy Carpenter, master ; Walter Copsey, secretary. Engineers — S. W. Thompson, C. E. ; D. E. LaLonde, F. A. E. Firemen — Roy Lampson, master; E. B. Gilbert, secretarj'. Train- men — M. J. Moriartj% master; W. H. Strong, secretary. School Directors — B. W. Tasker, James Carroll and S. J. Lewis. M. E. Church — Rev. David Roberts, pastor. Catholic Church — Rev. Father Brady, pastor. Supervisor — J. H. West. Justice of the Peace— L. V. Root. The Nee- dles Eye — L. V. Root, editor and publisher. From the Needles onwards, perhaps it is not to be won- dered at that to most travelers it is not interesting. Yet 369 a friend of mine once remarked, as we entered the lava bed region, "The only way to contemplate this desolate and barren region is with an eye to the wonderful dis- pensation of things." You ask yourself why it is thus? Thousands of square miles of arid land. My friend after- wards wrote in his diary : "I have said there is no beauty in this country. The casual observer would turn from it in disgust, as I am now tempted to do, though, if cir- cumstances permitted, I could write a book on the feelings inspired by this same desolate region, especially when they are whetted by the conversation of a man who has made a study of the geological conditions and can carry you from effect to cause and explain the why and where- fore of present appearances." And, indeed, who can look upon these numberless ex- tinct volcanoes, with their adjacent beds of black lava, which have flowed out in every direction, covering hun- dreds of square miles ; these miles of Sahara, where wind storms, fiercer than Arabian simoons, carry the desert sand with such force, and in such quantities as to stop the express trains and even carve the sandstone and igne- ous rock into strange and weird shapes to afford scope to the pencils of generations yet to see them as to how they were there carved ; upon the dried up beds of alkali lakes, and beaches, upon which the waves of long extinct inland seas restlessly tossed ; upon the acres of shells left there within the final upheaval of the mountain chains of the Pacific Slope shut off this section from the great ocean outside ; upon these fantastic desert trees — the cacti — some shaped like barrels, others like giant candelabra, .sixty or more feet high, or, when seen at night time, like hideous forms of the past, reaching out towards you, and following you, as if they would seize and tear you from the happy present. I say, who can gaze upon all 3/0 this and not feci a deep and profound interest in the work- ing forces of Nature and a desire to comprehend the pro- cesses by which worlds are made. Here the wonderful mirage can be studied, as probably nowhere else in the world. The frenzied prospector or traveler, perishing with thirst and afterwards discovered and saved, will willingly describe to you the horrors of his approaching death and the ecstatic joy he felt to see in the near distance a silvery stream, lined with waving trees and rich grass. Cool and delicious it seemed, and he hastened on toward it, his tongue black and thick, lolling out of his mouth, his lips cracked and baked, frenzied for water; only to find a burning alkali desert in the place of his long sought oasis. Right in the heart of the desert is the Calico Mining District, so named from the singular coloring and general appearance of the hills, which appear more as if they had been dropped upon the sand than heaved through it. The hills are exceedingly rich in gold and silver, and countless victims have been lured from safety to terrible death by the fascinations these singular hills possess. In their rich grays, browns, reds, purples and greens, they remind us of the old-fashioned calicoes worn by long past generations, but that quaint and picturesque figure of the west, — the prospector, — roamed over them, digged and scraped, hammered and picked with no thought of his maternal ancestry. All his desire was centred on present wealth, and with feverish anxiety he sought for traces of the gold bearing rock which alone could quench the burning fever of that desire. Reaching Goffs, the Barnwell branch of the Santa Fe leaves here and runs north into a very rich mineral coun- try, with a terminus at Ivanpah. By this means Vander- 371 bilt, Manvel, Searchlight, Goode Springs and several other important mining camps are reached. Daggett is a junction point with the Salt Lake, Los Angeles and San Pedro Railway, work having already commenced at that point to connect with the line at River- side. Daggett is the shipping point of the Pacific Coast Borax company. This company is a large shipper of borax from Teel's marsh in Death Valley. In 1872 ]\Ir. F. I\L Smith discovered the borax deposits and he and his brother organized a company to work the claims. They finally obtained sole control of Teel's marsh by buying out over one hundred locators, and in clearing up all adverse claims. The property then passed to the Pacific Coast Borax company, about twelve years ago. From that time on, the growth of the industry has been rapid. The product in 1864 of twelve tons was worth $780 a ton or thirty-nine cents a pound. In 1874 914 tons, worth four- teen cents a pound. In 1884, 1,019 tons, worth about ten cents a pound. In 1894 the product was 5,770 tons, worth seven cents a pound. In 1901, 10,815 tons, worth seven cents a pound. In other words, during the first ten years the output increased from an average of a ton a month to seventy-six tons. . In the next decade this was in- creased to eighty-five tons. In the third decade it was in- creased to 480 tons, and at the present time the product is over 1,000 tons per month. While the Teel's marsh was important, it was probably the development of the borax fields of Death Valley in 1880 that brought Mr. Smith the reputation which made his name a household word all over the world. It is impossible to give a pen picture of the difificultie? encountered. The bottom of Death Valley is nearly 400 feet below sea level. In 1880 the operating point was over 50 miles from San Bernardino, the base of supplies. In 372 that distance tlicrc was scarcely a spring; or a droi) of wa- ter, yet lumber, horses, wagons and supplies had to be taken through. Houses were built fast, the work of mak- ing borax went right on, and the "Twenty-Mule Team" became a houshold word. The wagons usually used for bringing borax from the desert were the largest and most economical ever built, holding ten tons each, and drawn by eighteen mules and two horses, and steered by a single "jerk" line. This "jerk" line or single rein by which the gigantic team was guided was one hundred and twenty- five feet long. Two of these wagons held a carload of borax. In the picture of them, familiar to everyone, will be seen a huge water tank trailing along behind. The route of this wagon was over one of the most rugged and precipitous mountain ranges in the world, namely, the Panamint Mountains. For eight years, or until 1888, the work was maintained. With the discovery of colemanite in the Calico Moun- tains, near Daggatt, the scene of operations was changed. This colemanite, which is a borate of lime, lies in veins and is mined just as gold quartz would be mined. Owing to the scarcity of water at Daggatt for manufcturing pur- poses, the crude material is shipped to the Alameda Re- finery for supplying the Pacific Coast market, and to the huge refinery at Bayonne, New Jersey, which supplies the entire borax trade in the East. The distance from Needles to Barsfozv is 169 miles, and here we are 142 miles from Los Angeles. The stations passed on the way are Blake, Fenner, Bagdad and Daggett, the latter being the shipping point for the Calico Mines and also for many other interesting inland points. The San Francisco branch of tlio Santa Fc leaves from 373 this point and goes to the Golden Gate metropolis by wa}' of Mohave, Fresno and Stockton. Barstow itself is an nnimportant town on the sontlu-rn' border of the Mohave desert. It is the distributing point for a large section of mining country, but has no agri- cultural- or manufacturing interests. There are round- houses here and small repair shops belonging to the rail- road, also a fine eating-house. Bye and bye the Mohave river comes in sight, and how delightful, refreshing and consoling it is. For quite a dis- tance the cars follow its winding towards its source in the San Bernardino mountains, then, just about where it branches off to the southeast and the railroad to the south- west, the traveler reaches the station of Vicor, and a little further on, Hesperia. These two towns are on the northern water- shed of the San Bernardino range, at an altitude of 3,200 feet, overlooking the vast Mohave desert, and lie in a pe- culiar semi-basin or valley, which has received the name of Hesperia Valley. The San Bernardino range on the south, and the Hesperia mountains on the north, both snow-clad for several months in the j'ear, on one side, and the great Mohave desert on the other, give a local pe- culiarity to the climate of Hesperia seldom found in South- ern California. Here the air warm and dry from the desert, laden with the odor of the pine and fir from the moun- tains and cooled by contact with the snow-banks, and bathed in ozone from the ocean, meet and eddy and circle and mix together, thus forming a region which for some kinds of disease is unequalled. Nearly all throat and lung diseases readily succumb to Hesperia climate without any extraneous medication whatever, and for asthma there are few places on the continent equal to it. The coolness from the mountains and ocean prevents the atmosphere from be- coming healed by proximily lo ihc desert, and yet tli' desert air dries and makes aseptic the moisture-laden air it commingles with. Therefore it is healthful and invig- orating under almost all circumstances. Botli settlements are small, but growing constantly, and are especially worthy the consideration of those seeking health. Here the tourist sees vast areas of monster cacti, like- gigantic trees, covered with rough velvet, which has been frayed by the rains and storms until it looks dilapidated and tattered. Ascending the San Bernardino Mountains, with the land of flowers and orange groves before, and the w^ide sandy desert behind, this is the dividing line, and still, before leaving the desert, it is only fair to say that its winter climate is one of the most delightful en route. The traveler who cares not for cities and crowds, and the companionship of men, but who loves to know nature, wmU find here a delicious, equable atmosphere, seldom be- low 60 deg. Fahr., with a constant, bright, beautiful sun- shine, never hot and never cold. The desert becomes carpeted over with flowers, as rich and rare as any garden ever boasted, and no one would dream at such a time that this was the great American Sahara. Summit is fift3'--six miles from Barstow, on the road to Los Angeles, and six miles further along Cajon is reached. These are both small stations, con- taining nothing of special interest to the tourist. The ob- servant traveler will notice, however, between Summit and Cajon, a curious bit of engineering. For several years, during the rainy season, traffic used to be interrupted by land slides in the Cajon Pass. The earthen sides of deep cuts, softened by the torrents poured from the mountain- side falling on the track, sometimes blocked it for miles. A 375 former general manager of the Santa Fe overcame this difficulty by an ingenius contrivance, consisting of a series of roofed terraces on the sides of deep gorges, arranged laterally with the track so as to carry the accumulated water away in several streams to the end of the cut, in- stead of allowing it to fall perpendicularly from the high banks. Irvington, seventy-three miles from Barstow, and sixty- nine miles from Los Angeles, is a small station, but it is interesting here to note the bee ranches and deciduous fruit orchards, tucked away in little nooks and corners on the mountain side. San Bernardino is the county seat, with a population of over 10,000. Since the extension of the city limits San Bernardino takes on quite a metropolitan air. It is also reached by the Southern Pacific Railroad, via Colton. It is the oldest of California towns, as it was settled in 1851 by Mormon colonists. It was not, however, placed in direct railroad connection with the East until 1886, when the Santa Fe System was extended to the Coast. This city is the divisional headquarters of the Santa Fe Rail- way, and contains round house, car shops, machine shops and storehouses of the companj'. The offices of chief en- gineer and superintendent of machinery are also located here. The city has good hotels, three banks which do a pros- perous business, canning factories, large lumber yards, a flour mill, foundry, carriage works, and numerous other grow'ing industries. San Bernardino is at an elevation of 1,025 feet, and is well supplied with good water. Pure artesian water springs from about six hundred wells in the city and vicinity. The ordinary depth of these wells is about two hundred feet, and they range from two to seven inches in diameter. 376 The average rainfall in San Bernardino Valley for twenty years exceeds seventeen inches annually. It falls at a tem- perature of fifty degrees. At an elevation of 6,800 feet is Bear Valley Lake, which is the first and foremost of the water reservoirs, not only in San Bernardino County, but in California. Having been originally a mountain lake, the narrow mouth of which became cut out by floods, it was again dammed, ten years ago, by solid masonry. Three other storage systems for this section are now being con- structed. The Arrowhead Reservoir Company has ex- pended already an aggregate of more than $350,000 for reservoir sites, tunnels, grading, etc. San Bernardino is to a considerable extent headquar- ters for prospectors and mining operations generally. The Times-Index, one of the best dailies of Southern Cali- fornia, makes a specialty of reporting the mining news. This county possesses varied and extensive deposits of mineral wealth. The vast desert wastes, with their rugged mountains, gulches and rocky ravines, contain untold mil- lions of treasure, in gold, silver, copper, lead, zinc, iron, manganese, borax, salt, soda, baryta, gypsum, sulphur, marble, etc. Persistent prospecting is carried on all the time, and on some of the street corners, occupied all the time by animated groups of prospectors, the uninitiated passer-by catches fragments of, to him, an unknown lan- guage as the conversation waxes warm on the subject of mining, prospecting, crushing and smelting of ores. San Bernardino County has over two million orange trees within here border; many of them are young trees as yet, but what a promise for the future is there in this one industrj'. The city has many fine buildings worthy of note, too numerous to dwell upon in detail, and is growing in this respect every daj'. There are five handsome churches, at y77 least ten fine hotels, and a high school building erected at a cost of $75,000. The city is well equipped for edu- cational purposes, employing thirty-three teachers and pos- sessing numerous handsome school houses. Four good newspapers are published in the city, two of which are dailies. The Chamber of Commerce is now soliciting the co-operation of capitalists, with a view to the establish- ment of several new enterprises which are needed and warranted by the prosperous conditions of the city. The scenery around San Bernardino is indescribably grand. Range after range of mountains are in view, with a view as far as the horizon of the verdant San Gabriel Valley, San Bernardino, San Gorgonio, Santiago, San An- tonio, the Cucamonga Peaks are all in sight, and during the winter, when clothed in their robe of purest white, they present a scene not surpassed by any view in the Alps, when taken into consideration with the richly green valleys at their feet. CHAPTER XXXIII. OVER THE KITE-SHAPED TRACK ON THE SANTA FE ROUTE The two loops that form this line of railroad give the route its name. The larger loop extends from Los An- geles to San Bernardino over two routes, and the smaller from San Bernardino to Redlands, likewise over two routes. The visitor to Southern California sees more country and a greater variety of scenery on this trip than any other one route of the South. He is taken through the center of a wonderful fruit growing country, with the great Sierra Madre Mountains on the one side and the rolling valley on the other. This is the famous Kite- Shaped Track of the Santa Fe. After leaving the architecturally unique "La Grande" depot at Los Angeles, with its picturesque and fragrant gardens, we enter the less picturesque suburbs. Only a few years ago, the occasional Mexican cluster of houses by the wayside, whose dry swept sunbeaten gardens found their only adornment in the dusky litter of small humanity growing up like weeds in uncared for freedom, alone gave fugitive greeting from time to time. Otherwise latent nature held absolute sway. But now we travel over well paved roads, or with all the comfort of the Pullman luxuries, from one station to another, discovering an un- dreamed of round of resources and wealth of industry that comes with the infusion of art and human thought into nature. At Dozvney Avenue the train touches the East Los An- geles division of the city, lying on the eastern side of the Arroyo Seco. This suburb is connected with the city by several arched bridges which are crossed by electric and 379 cable lines. It is provided with its own post office, com- mercial houses, schools and churches. Its main street, or Downey Avenue, presents quite an arboreal appearance, with its long lining of mature pepper trees, extending their graceful fern tipped branches over the broad walks. Sycaviore Grove, a large group of aged sycamores, af- fording generous shelter, and occasionally put to the use of picnic grounds. The individuality of these trees is re- markable. There is a fertile range of suggestions in con- tortions and attitudes so human that they might be styled "crystallized feelings." There is something tragic in the bearing of these sycamores. Singly or in groups they appeal to the imagination ; they fear, hope, implore and writhe in true Doresque fashion, like the souls condemned by Dante to tree life. In fact, they all but speak, and a poet's ear might fill in the scene with the whispering tempo of their leaves and interpret the drama in all its fullness. Four and one-half miles from the station, but still in the city of Los Angeles, we meet Highland Park, which records a distinct rise, being 530 feet in elevation above the sea. It is still a small settlement inhabited chiefly by live oaks, and rugged trees that march up the broad hillside in caravan, forming a cool shelter for the clustered little houses. Then canyons ".ucceed cerillos (small round hills) in picturesque ascent until Garvauca (the last station in Los Angeles city) is reached, a broad plateau about 556 feet elevation above sea level. Here there are several trade houses and a hotel, with a commanding outlook upon the mountains and Pasa- dena heights. Nenr Sunset the ■R.nvmnnd Hotel from this point looks likp n sold pmhlnzonerl rn^tlo Here is located the Art Building of the Art Department of the University of- Southern California. It is a pictur- 38o esque building witli fine outlook, well equipped within for the teaching of all the various dcpartmcniM of legitimate art. Its designer was W. L. Judson, who is also the dean of the College of Art. His work as an artist has already gained him an international reputation, especially his poetic interpretations of Western scenes and the Grand Canyon of the Colorado in Arizona. The river bed in this district affords an extensive range of Chinese vegetable gardens which contribute largely to the daily supply of Pasadena tables. Seven and one-half miles from Los Angeles is SOUTH PASADENA: Elevation, 674 feet. To Los Angeles, 7 miles. To Chicago, 2,257 miles. It is difficult to find the line that separates these fertile suburbs of Pasadena, only that orchard succeeds orchard in growing profusion and in all directions. Oranges, lemons, walnuts, almonds, pears, olives, and peaches rank among the favorites. Washington navels and apricots take the lead in quantity. The largest ranch of this district is that of the Raymond Improvement Company, consisting of 360 acres, largely planted in oranges, walnuts and vine- yards. The site of the great Raymond Hotel was originally a part of this land, but was presented by the company for the purpose of establishing an unrivaled site for Southern Californian travelers. An old adobe still survives this ranch, although supported here and there by some modern additions. It is inhabited by the zanjero of the ranch and is located near the reservoir at the foot of the Raymond hill. The soil of South Pasadena is exceedingly rich, bemg sandy loam, and requires little irrigation. Five and a half acres of land have produced 700 boxes of oranges at $50 tost, sold for $1,100. 38i The season for rain, allhongh nsually between November and May, is variable for different years. In 1884 the record was the highest known, amounting to 37 inches, and in 1876 the lowest, being only five inches. With a remarkable uni- formity of temperature for successive seasons, there is an- equally remarkable diversity in the amount of moisture. South Pasadena has a post ofifice, a good schoolhouse, three churches, and pretentious business blocks. There is also a live and active newspaper, called The Pasadenan, furnishing social news and industrid reports weekly. Since the advent of Mr. H. E. Huntington's Interurban Electric lines, especially the "Short Line" to Pasadena, South Pasadena has rapidly been improving. Two miles beyond South Pasadena station, after passing through a confusion of fruit-bearing groves that in their ripening season delight the eye of the artist, the palate of the epicure and the purse of the "monopolist" who owns them, we finally halt at an architecturally graceful building of red brick — the station for the famous "Raymond" Hotel that stands out in colossal proportions on the hill to- the right of the traveler. Pasadena is fully described in its own chapter. LAMANDA PARK: To Los Angeles, 13 miles. To Chicago, 2,251 miles. From station to station we encounter one long series of orchards, citrus and deciduous fruits and berry fields. No one can pass through these regions in swift succession and not wonder at the marvelous productiveness of earth, the magic of chemistry, that flic almost invisible germ pro- duces the vigorous, fruit-dispensing, towering tree, with branches 1ient to the ground with its generous, life-preserv- ing gift. Here the same soil and moisture woos the northern and southern fruits into ripeness. The deciduous 3^3 apple, the corraline cherry, the sour lemon and sweet persimmon, all grow in close neighborhood and fraternal harmony, no one detracting from the flavor, size or beauty of the other. We are now in the midst of the live oak region, and at Lamanda Park they are grouped in large masses, beauti- ful in their ruggedness and irregular strength. At one time there was a great forest of these noble trees, but, little by little, they have been utilized by the tiller of the soil, for fuel. The needs of civilized man do not respect the hoary age of trees. The Indian, more humanelj', cuts only the branches of the tree for fuel, but holds the trunk and root sacred. At SANTA ANITA : To Los Angeles, 15 miles. To Chicago, 2,249 miles. the traveler lands at the great Baldwin ranch, which main- tains hundreds of workmen. Here are groves, orchards, cattle, horses and all the appointments that convert sandy loam and adobe into a prolific and profitable fruit-bearing region. The entire ranch comprises about 49,000 acres. A favorite drive extends from this homestead to Los Angeles, lined with orchards, vineyards, fertile wheat and barley fields. Race stables and a winery are also drawing features of this ranch and some of the best blood stock of Southern California may be found among "Lucky Bald- win's." Sierra Madre is a beautiful little village at the very foot of the mountains bearing the same name. Picturesque for situation, healthful and always inviting, Sierra Madre has long enjoyed a most enviable reputation. It has good scliools and churches and is quietly progressive. Wilson's Peak. An ideal camp life can be enjoyed in the 3H4 j^rcat pine forests on the snmmit of tlic Sierra Madrc at Wilson's Peak. During the summer this grand natural park is open for campers. Comfortable cottage tents have been erected and may be rented furnished or unfurnished, liy tlic week or month. A superintendent is in charge of the camp who will give attention to locating guests and supplying them with such groceries and provisions as they desire. All camp lots are nicely graded and so located as to have plenty of shade and fine outlook. Martin's Camp, a summer and winter resort, is about a mile below the summit. This well known resort has been conducted for a number of years, and is visited by thou- sands annually. It is a most unique little village with its main buildings, cottages and tents nestled in among the trees. Water, cold and clear as crystal, is piped to the camp from springs nearly six thousand feet high. The camp now consists of a large dining hall and kitchen, ladies' sitting room with a large stone fireplace, bath room, and numerous cottages and tent houses. From here well graded bridle roads and walks lead in all directions. The camp is on a divide between Mt. Wilson and Mt. Harvard, with the great Santa Anita Canyon on the east and Eaton's Canyon on the west. The air is always cool, bracing and dry. The table is the best, and the "mountain train," ar- riving daily from the valley below, comes laden with the choicest meats, fresh vegetables and fruits the market afifords. Hcnningcr's Flats. About one-third of the distance up. the road passes through Henninger's Flats, a mesa contain- ing a large area of tillable land, where an old-time Cali- fornian. "Capt. Henninger," lived a hermit life for many ve:ir>^. .\ good supply of water is piped from a canyon near by. The next settlement is the Half-way House in a beautiful grove of mountain oaks. The proprietor, Mr. 385 Schneider, will furnish you with refreshments and lodgin_ if desired. From here to the summit much of the way is through the magnificent mountain forests. A trip over the road in winter is never to be forgotten. From "roses to snow" in a few hours' time and return the same day if desired. How to get from Los Angeles to Wilson's Peak via Old Trail. Take the Santa Fe train to Santa Anita (i6 miles). Then take the Twycross 'Bus to foot of trail (2 miles). Then you take a sure-footed burro for a ride of eight miles over the old Wilson trail, and at the end you find yourself on Wilson's Peak among the big pines. How to get from Los Angeles and Pasadena to Wilson's Peak via toll road of the old Wilson trail : Take any car to Pasadena. Call at Morgan's livery stable, 44 South Raymond avenue, or telephone in advance. Main 56, to engage animals and stage. Stage daily to foot of either trail 8 A. M. and 2 P. M. Stage leaves foot of trail for return 11 A. M. and 5 P. M., but must be telephoned in advance and leaves promptly on stated hours. Other hours than the above regular livery rates will be charged. Tickets for stage and animals can be procured only at the above num'ber, and tickets only can procure animals at foot of trail. For further information call upon Tourist In- formation Bureau, 211 West Fourth street, telephone John 2566, or Chas. Grimes, South Fair Oakes avenue, Pasadena, telephone Red 1183. Sierra Madre Villa is one of the landmarks of Southern California. For many years it was the leading tourist and health resort of the State, and while it has lost none of its own attractiveness, it has merely yielded to its more noisy city competitors. Arcadia, immediately adjoining Baldwin's ranch, betrays the occult secret of native prosperity. It is one broad, 386 wliolcsnmc nursery, licaring over one hundred thousand trees of citrus and deciduous fruits. There is a hotel of red brick at this point, bearing the name "Arcadia," where generous supplies of cooked viands are served. All through this section the healthy young sprigs of orange, lemon, peach and apricot border the railroad lands. It is some of the choicest citrus land and is held at high value, both because of its situation and excellent facilties for irrigation. Here a town has recently been (1903) incorporated. Considerable opposition to this was manifested at the time and it was claimed that Baldwin's intention was to start a "wide open" gambling resort that would outrival the notorious gambling places of Europe. After leaving Arcadia we meet strong contrasts, long areas of wild land showing strenuous cultivation of weeds and stones, characteristic of the Mexican's indolent love of "nature unadorned." Beyond this the blooming groves of IMonrovia come as a new revelation. One spot definitely summarises the capricious neighboring of rugged earth and man's tillage. Tl is illustrated by an immense wild cactus bed, covering an acre or more, an abode of lizards, ser- peftts and all creeping things, touching close upon a w'ide velvety expanse of fresh alfalfa, which in its luscious, in- describable wealth of green shows the most careful culti- vation. A pleasing effect of perspective is gained in looking up to- wards the foothills on entering MONROVIA : Population. 1,205. Elevation. 51S feet. S. P. Survey. To Los Angeles, IS miles. To Chicago, 2,246 miles. Two magnificent avenues stretch from station to foot- hills in gradual ascent. Handsome houses nestle along the 387 base of the mountains among fertile orchards. All lines of business are conducted in the thrifty business center. There are several banks, extensive fruit drying establish- ments, seven churches, public library, a grammar and high school. Electric cars connect the town with Los Angeles, running every half hour. The Grand View Hotel (or La Vista Grande), capacity 150; rates $2.00 to $3.00 per day; $5.00 to $12.00 per week; A. E. Cronenwett, proprietor, is located on the higher foothills and a magnificent view is presented of the exquisite scenery of the world-famed San Gabriel Valley. It is first-class in its appointments, there being electric bells, baths, gas, etc. Also Hotel Mon- rovia, capacity 25, rates $1.00 per day; $5.00 to $7.00 per week. From here the home seeker may drive around amongst the orange and lemon orchards, and, if he is inclined to mountaineering, enjoy rambles into the heart of the majestic mountains which form the northern boundary of the city. He will find the streets of Monrovia clean, dry and well drained, owing to its sloping, foothill location, and that it well deserves its title "the gem of the foothills." DUARTE : Population, 644. Elevation, 502 feet, S. P. Survey. To Los Angeles, 20 miles. To Chicago, 2,244 miles. Is a somewhat smaller town, mainly a fruit raising and farming community. Its oranges are of a superior quality. It is furnished with one hotel, schools and stores. Leaving Duarte we cross the river 1)cd of the San Gabriel River. In the mountains to our left is the San Antonio Canyon. This canyon is some 60 miles in length, and is fast becoming a favorite summer haunt. Tents may be seen to dot its rugged breadth for miles during the summer season. There is good fishing and hunting. Here, too, the electric works 388 arc stationed, which furnish electric light to Pomona, On- tario and vicinity, as the power supplied by water is uni- form the year round. In the summer this river would answer the definition given by some traveler who declared that California rivers differed from those of the East in that the water was below and the bed on top, but in the rainy season it rushes' forth from the canyon in terriffic torrents, carrying great bould- ers for miles down into the valley lands. In 1901 a scries of singular facts, which demonstrate the strange actions of some Southern California rivers, was observed in the San Gabriel. At the tunnel, up the canyon, there were ten thousand inches of water. At the crossing of the Santa Fe railroad, a mile or so below the canyon, there was still a good flow; but at the Southern Pacific crossing, a mile or two below that, not a drop of water was to be seen. A quarter of a mile below this, however, the water began to reappear, and four miles below there was said to be even more water than in the tunnel. Thus, within a few miles, a flow of ten thousand inches of water entirely disappeared, and then reappeared in increased volume. On both sides of this river bed there are stretches of arid land, because of the dangerous might of its winter flow, but three miles beyond Duarte is AZUSA : To Los Angeles, 24 miles. To Chicago, 2.210 miles. A thriving town. It owns some of the largest orchards, and does more fruit shipping than any other station be- tween Pomona and Los Angeles. Strawberries are a specialty of this region. There are a number of business blocks, an excellent weekly newspaper called the Pomo-Tropic, which is the 3S9 leading horticultural organ of Southern California, a bank, an ice and cold storage factory, where 30 tons of ice art made every twentj'-four hours, and several hotels. Azusa was established in 1887, but it is only during the past decade and a half that it has grown to any extent. The history of Azusa is interwoven with the early history of the State. As a fertile and productive part of one of the old Spanish grants, it was some of the favorite property of Luis Arenas, one of the leaders to obtain land from the new Republic of ^Mexico. In 1844, five years previous to the gold excitement, Henry Dalton — of sad history — pur- chased the ranch, then including 4,431 acres. It soon became a trading settlement with a small winery and black- smith shop and ''tortilla" foundr}'. Here Indians and Spaniards plied their trades, the former in spinning, weav- ing, cart and saddle-making, the latter in hunting, herding and planting. Azusa is therefore one of the most ancient as well as one of the most modern towns, and any traveler who chooses may visit a little old adobe that still stands as a pitiful remnant of the old Dalton homestead, where the energetic young English merchant lived with the Spanish belle of his choice, Senorita Zamereno, whose parents emi- grated from Spain. Little by little the Dalton lands were divided and grazing lands converted to orchards. The first schoolhouse of Azusa was built in 1865, the ground floor of the establishment being of good mother earth. The walls of this primitive seat of learning were tiers of brush, pinioned between sticks, roofed with shakes and willows, and here the Mexican youth was taught his elements of knowledge in an ample apartment 12-40 feet. This unique adaptation to circumstances has long served to warm some native hearth, and in its place there are now some handsomely equipped buildings, the most stately being the city high school, erected in 1889, at a cost of $9,000. 390 TIio vallrv sclmols arc minicrous, hut none more important llian llir free kindergarten school of Aziisa, where the j.M()vvin)4 ])owers of observation are directed into the most useful clianncls and where the child is taught from nature, rather tliaii from books, the riches and utilities of life. TIuTf arc also several fraternal societies, and five churches. l'