TREASURY DEPARTMENT 
 
 UNITED STATES COAST AND GEODETIC SURVEY 
 
 HENRY S. PRITCHETT 
 
 SUPERINTENDENT. 
 
 Bulletin No. 40. 
 
 SECOXU EDI'riOX-WITJr ADDITIONS ATMD CIIAXCES. 
 
 ALASKA 
 
 COAST PILOT NOTES ON THE FOX ISLANDS PASSES, UNALASKA 
 
 BAY, BERING SEA, AND ARCTIC OCEAN 
 
 AS FAR AS POINT BARROW. 
 
 Prepared by the Coast and Geodetic Survey, and revised by 
 Lieut. D. H. Jarvis, U. S. R. C. S. 
 
 Bulletins are issued by the Survey from time to time as material for them accumulates. They are intended 
 to give early announcement of work accomplished or information of importance obtained, and will, in many 
 cases, anticipate the usual means of publication afforded by the Annual Reports. 
 
 Those already published, Nos. 1 to 35, inclusive, in quarto form, constitute Vol. I; No.s. 26 to S."), inolusivo, 
 in octavo, constitute Vol. II; Vol. Ill begins with No. 36. 
 
 WASHINGTON 
 
 GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE 
 190^0.
 
 TREASURY DEPARTMENT 
 UNITED STATES COAST AND GEODETIC SURVEY 
 
 HENRY S. PRITCHETT 
 
 SUPERINTENDENT. 
 
 Bulletin No. 40. 
 
 SECOND EDITIOX-WITII ADDITIONS AND CHANGES. 
 
 ALASKA 
 
 COAST PILOT NOTES ON THE FOX ISLANDS PASSES, UNALASKA 
 
 BAY, BERING SEA, AND ARCTIC OCEAN 
 
 AS FAR AS POINT BARROW. 
 
 Prepared by the Coast and Geodetic Survey, and revised by 
 Lieut. D. H. Jarvis, U. S. R. C. S. 
 
 Bulletins are is.sued by tlie Survey from time to time as material for them accumulates. They are intended 
 to give early announcement of work accomplished or information of iinportani'e obtained, and will, in many 
 cases, anticijjate the usual means of publication afforded by the Annual Rei)orts. 
 
 Those already published, Nos. 1 to 2"), inclusive, in quarto form, con.stitute Vol. I; Nos. 20 to 35, inclusive, 
 in octavo, constitute Vol. II ; Vol. Ill begins witli No. 30. 
 
 WASHINGTON 
 
 GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE 
 1900.
 
 TREASURY DEPARTMENT, 
 United States Coast and Geodetic Survey Office, 
 
 Washington, D. C, ^jmi 2, 1900. 
 
 The information contained in this bulletin relates to the Fox Islands Passes, Unalaska 
 Bay, the coast and islands of Alaska to the eastwai'd and nortliward of the passes, and the 
 Arctic Ocean as far as Point Barrow. Bulletin No. 40, issued May 4, 180'J, contained all 
 the information available to the date of its publication. In this, the second edition of Bul- 
 letin No. 40, all later information has been added; it lias been compiled in the office of the 
 Coast and Geodetic Survey from the following sources : 
 
 Reports of United States naval officers published in Hydrographic OlKce Notice to 
 Mariners. 
 
 Report of Lieut. Commander Z. L. Tanner, U. S. N., commanding U. S. Fish Commis- 
 sion steamer Albatross, from a reconuoissance of Bristol Bay in IS'.iO. 
 
 Reports of J. F. Pratt, Assistant, Coast and Geodetic Survey, in charge of parties 
 surveying Golofnin Bay and tlie j^assos and ihits of the Yukon River in 18'.)8 and 18'J9. 
 
 Reports of Assistants G. R. Putnam and R. L. Faris, Coast and Geodetic Survey, in 
 charge of parties surveying the delta of the Yukon Rivei', Scammon Bay, and Stuart 
 Island in 1899. 
 
 Information collected from navigators at Seattle, Wash., by J. F. Pratt, Assistant, 
 Coast and Geodetic Survey. 
 
 Memoranda furnished by Mr. Samuel Applegate, of Unalaska. 
 
 The information thus obtained has been revised as far as possible, and much additional 
 matter added, by Lieut. D. H. Jarvis, U. S. R. C. S., who was detailed by tlio United Sta.tes 
 Revenue-Cutter Service for this duty. 
 
 As absolute accuracy in a worlc of this class is scarcely possible, navigators will confer 
 a favor by notifying the Superintendent of the Coast and Geodetic Survey of errors which 
 they may discover, or of additional matter which they think should be inserted iov the 
 information of mariners. It is the iutenti(jn of tlio Office to extend this publication as 
 rapidly as possible to include all portions of Alaska west of Yakutat Bay, the Aleutian 
 Islands, and tlie Arctic Ocean east of Point Barrow, and the coopei'ation of navigators is 
 requested to this end. 
 
 HENMY S. PItlTCHETT, 
 
 Superintendent. 
 
 (3)
 
 AGEXCIES t)X THE PACIFIC COAST FOR THE SAEE OF THE CHARTS, COAST 
 PILOTS, AXD TIDE TABLES OF THE UNITED STATES COAST AJiD GEODETIC 
 SURA'EY. 
 
 San Diego, Cal. 
 
 E. M. BURBECK, 1051 Fifth St. 
 
 Newport Beach, Cal. 
 
 JOSEPH H, DIXON, 
 
 Santa Ana, Cal. 
 
 E. S. WALLACE. 
 
 Long Beach, Cal. 
 
 FRANK L. WINGARD. 
 
 San Pedro, Cal. 
 
 BEN EDELMAN. 
 
 Los Angeles, Cal. 
 
 STOLL & THAYER CO., 253 South Spring St 
 LAZARUS & MELZER, Los Angeles and Com 
 mercial Sts. 
 
 Santa Barbara, Cal. 
 
 H. A. C. McPHAIL, 705 State St. 
 
 San Francisco, Cal. 
 
 S. S, ARNHEIM, S Steuart St. 
 LOUIS WEULE, 418 Battery St. 
 DILLON & CO.. 310 California St. 
 H. LAWRENSON, Market St. 
 J. C. PASCOE, 305 Battery St. 
 
 Eureka, Cal. 
 
 JAMES B. MATHEWS, Cor. Second and G Sts. 
 
 Monterey, Cal., 
 
 FRANCIS M. HILBY. 
 
 Mendocino, Cal. 
 
 WILLIAM MULLEN. 
 
 Crescent City, Cal. 
 WM. F. WULF. 
 
 Tillamook, Oreg. 
 
 B. C. LAMB. 
 
 Astoria, Oreg. 
 
 GRIFFIN & REED, 504 Conimorcial St. 
 
 Portland, Oreg. 
 
 THE J. K. GILL CO., Cor. Third and Alder Sts. 
 
 Marshfield, Oreg. 
 
 F. P. NORTON. 
 
 Port Townsend, Wash. 
 
 WATERMAN & KATZ. 
 W. J. FRITZ 320 Watnr St. 
 
 Everett, "Wash. 
 
 SWALWELL BOOK AND STATIONERY 
 COMPANY 
 
 Seattle, Wash. 
 
 THE CALVERT COMPANY, 716 First Ave. 
 LOWMAN & HANFORD STATIONERY AND 
 
 PRINTING COMPANY, 61(i First Ave. 
 G. BENINGHAUSEN, First Ave. South and 
 
 Washington Sts. 
 MAX KUNBR, 29 Colman Block. 
 
 Tacoma, Wash. 
 
 VAUGHAN & MORRILL CO., 920 Pacific Ave. 
 
 Anacortes, Wash. 
 
 J. H. HAVEKOST. 
 
 New^ Whatcom, Wash. 
 
 C. M. SHERMAN. 
 
 Port Angeles, Wash. 
 
 BEN C. KELLER, 
 
 Hoquiam, Wash. 
 
 BRUCE & LAMB. 
 
 Blaine, Wash. 
 
 J, W, HALL. 
 
 Victoria, B. C. 
 
 J, JOHNSTON, 77 Government St. 
 
 T. N. HIBBEN & CO., 69 Government St. 
 
 Vancouver, B. C. 
 
 THOMSON STATIONERY CO,, 108 Cordova St. 
 CLARKE & STUART, 1 1 Cordova St. 
 
 Juneau, Alaska. 
 
 G, W, (iARSIDE. 
 
 Sitka, Alaska. 
 
 EDWARD De GROFF. 
 
 Skaguay, Alaska. 
 
 MISS J. BROWNE. 
 
 Dutch Harbor, Alaska. 
 
 J. STANLEY-BROWN. 
 
 Fort Wrangel, Alaska. 
 
 C. W. FEIKERT. 
 
 St. Michael, Alaska. 
 
 E. T. BALDWIN. 
 
 Haines, Alaska. 
 
 VV. W. WARNE. 
 
 Honolulu, H. I. 
 
 HAWAIIAN NEWS CO. 
 
 (5)
 
 irsriTED STATES COAST AXD GEODETIC SURVEY CHARTS AXD 3IAPS OF BERING 
 
 SEA AND ARCTIC OCEAN. 
 
 Catalogue 
 Number. 
 
 T 
 
 3091 
 3093 
 3093 
 3094 
 3098 
 
 ysoo 
 
 9100 
 8981 
 8993 
 9007 
 9008 
 9191 
 
 8833 
 9370 
 9372 
 9373 
 9375 
 
 9381 
 
 General Cbart of Alaska 
 
 Territory of Alaska, Southeast Section, map 
 
 Territory of Alaska, Southwest Section, map 
 
 Territory of Alaska, Northwest Section, map 
 
 Territory of Alaska, Northeast Section, map 
 
 Yukon Rivei', map- 
 
 Alaska Peninsula and Aleutian Islands to Seguam Pass. 
 Aleutian Islands from Yunaska Islriud to Attn Island... 
 
 Akun Cove. Akun Island 
 
 Pribilof Islands 
 
 Unalaska Bay, Iliuliuk and Dutch Harbors 
 
 Dutch Harbor 
 
 Harbors and Anchorages in Southwestern Alaska . 
 
 Southwest Anchorage, Chirikof Island 
 
 Bay of Islands, Adakh Island 
 
 Constantine Harbor, Amchitka Island 
 
 Kiska Harbor 
 
 Cape Etolin, Nunivak Island 
 
 Port Moller and Heredeen Bay 
 
 Cape Dyer to St. Michael . 
 
 Yukon River, Aproon Mouth _ 
 
 Yukon River, Kwiklok Mouth. 
 
 St. Michael Bay 
 
 Sub Sketch— 
 
 Pt. Romanof to St. Michael 
 
 Entrance to Port Safety 
 
 Proportioual. 
 
 3, 600, 000 
 
 1 
 1,200,000 
 
 1 
 
 1, '200, 000 
 
 1 
 
 1,200,000 
 
 _^^ 
 
 1,200,000 
 
 J 
 
 1,200,000 
 
 1 
 
 1,200,000 
 
 _ J 
 
 1,200,000 
 
 1 
 50,000 
 
 1 
 
 20, 000 
 1 
 
 40, 000 
 1 
 
 10,000 
 
 Inches to 
 Stiitnte Jlilc. 
 
 0. 0'3 
 
 0.05 
 0.05 
 0.0,i 
 0. 05 
 0. 05 
 0. 05 
 0. 05 
 1.27 
 3.17 
 1.58 
 G.34 
 
 300, 000 
 
 1 
 80, 000 
 
 1_ 
 
 80,000 
 
 1 
 30,000 
 
 1 
 300, 000 
 
 _ J^ 
 
 15, 000 
 
 1.47 
 1.92 
 1.47 
 2.35 
 3.17 
 .7!) 
 0.24 
 0.79 
 0.79 
 3.17 
 
 0.32 
 
 4.8 
 
 Date of last 
 Edition. 
 
 1899 
 
 1898 
 1898 
 1898 
 1898 
 1898 
 1899 
 189C 
 1889 
 1899 
 1898 
 1900 
 1893 
 
 19(10 
 1899 
 1899 
 1899 
 1897 
 
 1900 
 
 SO. 50 
 0.25 
 0.25 
 0.25 
 0.35 
 0.25 
 0. 50 
 0.50 
 0.10 
 0.25 
 0.10 
 0.25 
 0.20 
 
 0. 25 
 0.50 
 0. 25 
 0.25 
 0.50 
 
 0.25 
 
 U. S. Hydnigraphic Office CJiart No. 68, Bering Sea and Arctic Ocean, and British 
 Admiralty Chart No. 593, Point Rodney to Point Barrow, are useful and necessary charts 
 in navigating these waters. U. S. Coast and Geodetic Survey Charts Nos. 9S80, Norton 
 Sound, scale ^vrulooo' ^^^ ^"^^ (Mercator), Bering Sea, Eastern Part, scale i-joS^ooo' '"'ith a sub- 
 etch of Port Clarence, are in preparation. 
 
 (6)
 
 BERING SEA. 
 
 Note. — In iliis puhlicalion all heariinjs are vtagiietic, all distances are in vnntical miles. 
 
 GENERATj EEMARKS.— The portions (jf Bering Sea liere treated include the Fox 
 Islands Passes, Unalaska Bay, and the coast and islands of Alaska lying northward and 
 eastward of the lOO-fatliom line, whicli extends from the west end of Uniniak Island to a 
 point about 30 miles soutliwaril of St. George Island. Excejiting a few localities, this terri- 
 tory has not been surveyed, and the charts of it are mily compilations from various sources, 
 with corrections made from later information received; the charts are necessarily imperfect 
 and must not be followed implicitly, especially when in tlie vicinity of the shore. Then, 
 too, the currents are much influenced by the winds, and are inqjcrfectly known and difficult 
 to predict, so that positions by dead reckoning are iincertain and safety depends upon con- 
 stant vigilance. 
 
 Northward and eastward of the 100-fathoni line the waters of Bering Sea shoal grad- 
 ually to the coast. There are no dangers iu the open sea, unless the Pribilof Islands, 
 St. Lawrence Island, St. Matthew Island, King Ishuid, and Diomede Islands be considered 
 as such. Tliese, being volcanic in character and rocky, are generally bold-to, and in 
 ajjproaching them in thick weather the lead can not be depended ux)on at all times to keep 
 clear of them. The coast of the mainland from the head of Bristol Bay to St. Michael, 
 including Nunivak Island, is characterized by extensive banks, formed by deposits from the 
 rivers, which extend many miles from shore, iu some cases out of sight of land. Some of 
 tliese shoals are believed to be c[uite steep-to on their seaward faces, making it unsafe to 
 shoal the water to less than 10 fathoms when in their vicinity. 
 
 In this region, where fog and thick weather are the rule during the season of navigation, 
 safety, when near the coast, depends on the use of the lead, which, on account of the gener- 
 ally regular bottom, will indicate the approach to danger. In general, all the shores of 
 Bering Sea and the Arctic Ocean are shallow, and when coasting it should be observed as a 
 rule to keep the lead going constantly, and when north of St. Michael never to shoal the 
 water to less than 5 fathoms unless feeling your way in to the land. Between St. Michael 
 and tlie head of Bristol Bay the water should not be shoaled to less than 10 fathoms under 
 the same conditions. 
 
 There are no aids to navigation. All of the rocky islands and rocky cliffs of the main- 
 land are frecpiented by thousands of birds, whose numbers, constant cries, and flight serve 
 to indicate the ajjproach to shore at these places in thick weather. 
 
 The coast of Alaska from the head of Bristol Bay to Point Barrow and eastward has 
 driftw<jod, wliich is brought down from the interior by the rivers and carried by the 
 northerly currents of the sea. Good water can always be found in the vicinity of high land. 
 Salmon are plentiful diii-ing the o])en season in all the streams as far north as Kotzebue 
 Sound, and cod are very plentiful in tlie vicinity of the passes and in Bristol Bay. 
 
 ICE.— Except in bays and sheltered places, the ice of Birring Sea consists of detached 
 fields, lloes, and cakes, which are continually kept in motion, breaking up, piling, and tele- 
 scoping by the action of variable winds and currents. At no time is the sea one solid sheet 
 of ice, and in the winter, while it is forming, it is more scattered than iu the spring, when 
 the nortlioily movement has begun, and it packs closer together. The general southern 
 limit of ice is from Bristol Bay to tlie vicinity of St. George Island, and thence about west- 
 northwest to the Siberian shore. The southern edge is ragged and very much scattered, and 
 
 (7)
 
 8 BULLETIN NO. 40 SECOND EDITION. 
 
 continued northerly winds sometimes drive fields of it far southward. As a rule, no heavy 
 ice will be encountered south of the Pribilof Islands, and the ice in their vicinity is likely to 
 be nothing more than detached fields. 
 
 The ice conditions in Bristol Bay have so far received little notice. Reports have been 
 received that the bay is usually free from heavy ice between the middle of May and June 
 10. In 1S99 the steamer Jeanie, of 1,000 tons and a draft of 18 feet, reached Clarks Point 
 in Nushagak River on April 4, and was discharged on April 15. At this time the ice in the 
 river above Fort Alexander remained solid, but two weeks afterwards it broke up and came 
 down the river in large pieces, which would have endangered any vessel at anchor. In 
 approaching the Nushagak River some ice was encountered about 75 miles from Cape Con- 
 stautine, but not sufficient to seriously interfere with navigation. In 1896, on May 10, a 
 vessel bound for Bristol Bay was brought up by the ice which extended from Point Moller 
 to St. George Island, and she was not able to reach the Nushagak River until thirty days 
 later. It is within reason to believe that some years Bristol Bay is open to navigation all 
 winter, though the rivers and sheltered bays are closed. 
 
 In the spring, beginning with April, there is a general movement of the ice to the 
 northward, the shores clearing ahead of the center of the sea; but it sometimes hangs in 
 the bays and around the islands later than in the open sea. Seasons vary, the movement 
 and position of the ice depending greatly on the direction of the winds. Generally, how- 
 ever, by June 1 the whole body of ice is well up Avith St. Lawrence Island, and a passage 
 opens to its west side. The eastern side of the sea is likely to be obstructed a little later than 
 the western side, and ice is often met between St. Lawrence Island and Nunivak Island in the 
 early part of June. The breaking out of the rivers toward the latter part of May clears 
 tlie shores, but the ice is likely to hold in Norton Sound several weeks later. 
 
 In general, for a vessel not fitted to encounter ice, Norton Sound is not navigable before 
 the middle of June, often not before June 20 to 25, and has been known to be as late as 
 July 10. On entering the sound about this time, strips of ice are often encountered after the 
 sound can be said to be navigable. From the deck these may appear extensive and solid, 
 but from aloft clear water may be seen beyond and through them. At the opening of navi- 
 gation the ice is likely to be heaviest and to remain longest on the north shore, and, in 
 general, it is the last of June before that part of the sound is altogether clear. 
 
 In the fall young ice begins to form on the rivers, and in the bays and sheltered places 
 after October 1, and grows stronger and spreads according to the severity of the advancing 
 season. Navigation is considered unsafe in Norton Sound after October 15. In the first 
 week of October, 1897, three river steamers were frozen in in one night about 5 miles from 
 the Apoon mouth of the Yukon River, the ice being heavy enough to walk ashore on. A 
 strong southwest wind afterwards broke up the ice and raised the water sufficiently for them 
 to get into the mouth of the river. On October 21, of the same year, a small steamer was 
 frozen in and lauded her cargo on the ice 1^ miles from St. Michael ; afterwards the ice 
 broke up, and the vessel was considered fortunate to get out at such a late date. 
 
 crRRENTS. — There has been no systematic study of the currents of Bering Sea, and 
 the almost constant fogs prevent the navigator from adding much to o'ur meager knowledge 
 conceriiing them. It is said that in general the currents are greatly influenced by the tide 
 and winds. The following observations apply to the open season, when the flow of the 
 currents is not obstructed by ice. 
 
 Between Cape Cheerful and St. George Island the current is not believed to have any 
 decided set or flow unless influenced by the wind. With a strong wind a current is likely 
 to set with it, but J point allowance in a course will be sufficient to overcome any set that 
 will be found in this vicinity due to this cause. 
 
 Between St. Matthew aiul Nunivak islands the set of the current is to the northward; 
 with prevailing northeast winds it sets northwest, and with northwest and southwest winds, 
 northeast. This northerly current continues and increases between St. Lawrence Island 
 and the mainland, being stronger toward the mainland north of the mouth of the Yukon
 
 BERING SEA AND ARCTIC OCEAN. 9 
 
 River, where it amounts to aljout 1 knot, except in the early summer, when, increased by 
 the freshets in the Yukon, it may amount to 2 knots or more.* The current sets north 
 across Norton Sound to Sledge Island and then follows the coast to Bering Strait. It is 
 strongly marked between Sledge Island and Bering Strait. 
 
 In Bering Strait the current sets north, and when not influenced by wind its rate is 
 about 2 knots an hour. Protracted northerly gales, which prevail in the autumn, change 
 its direction to the southward, but on the cessation of the wind it (juickly sets north again. 
 Strong southerly gales increase its rate to 3 knots. The eiirrent is stronger east of the 
 Diomede Islands than west of them. 
 
 A current sets strongly from Cape Newenham through Etolin Strait. 
 
 TIDAL STREAMS. — In the southern part of Bering Sea, inside the 100-fathom line, 
 and through the various passes in the Aleutian Islands, the tidal stream sets nortliward or 
 nnrtlieastward during the rising tide, and southward or southwestward during the falling 
 tide. In some of the jjasses it sometimes has a velocity of liA knots an liour; when clear of 
 the passes its maximum velocity is about 24 knots. At the Pribilof Islands, Nuuivak, St. 
 Matthew, Hail, and St. Lawrence Islands the tidal currents are strongly marked. The 
 flood cui-rent sets eastward and northward and the ebb westward and southward. In Bristol 
 Bay the tidal currents are very strong. They are also strong at the Kuskokwim River 
 and north to the mouth of the Yukon, being especially so in the Etolin Strait and about 
 Cai>e Vancouver. 
 
 F<>(; is most prevalent during spring, summer, and early fall, and it generally begins to 
 clear about the middle of October. In summer fog is almost continuous, but few days are 
 clear from morning to night, and the tops of the mountains can seldom be seen. At the 
 surface of tlie water it is generally suflicientl}^ clear to make out the shore at a distance of 
 ;i or 4 miles, Init at times it is so thick that nothing can be made out, and ujider such con- 
 ditions strangers should not attempt to make the land. During the summer months the 
 mist and fog are considered to be worse on the south side of the Aleutian Islands than on 
 the north side in their immediate vicinity. 
 
 WEATHER. — The most striking feature aboiit the weather in Bering Sea is its great 
 uncertainty throughout the year. Good weather is rare and not lasting, and the winds can 
 not be depended upon to remain long in one quarter. The late spring and summer are mild 
 and very foggy, with frequent periods of light weather, comparatively few strong winds, 
 and considerable rain. After September 1, gales become frequent and heavy, fogs gradually 
 lessen, and toward the latter part of the month snow often accompanies the storms. During 
 all the fall, gales are frequent, violent, and from almost any (|uarter. 
 
 During the fall and winter there are often periods of very low barometer (readings below 
 2!'. 00 being common) accompanied by moderate to strong gales, with rain or snow. These 
 gales, tiiough sometimes very severe, are usually not so strong as would be expected by the 
 fall of the Ijarometer. After December and continuing into the s])ring there are often periods 
 of moderate weather, and while severe gales occur, they are less frequent than in the fall. 
 Strong winds or gales from any qmirter always bring thick weather, rain, or snow. With 
 easterly or southerly winds the rain is continuous, while with W(^sterly or northerly winds 
 the rain or snow occurs at intervals in squalls, and when the wind subsides the weather is 
 likely to be clear. 
 
 Southeast storms, with falling barometer and rising teiuiierature, are almost invariably 
 preceded by an ^inusual clearness of the air; cirrus clouds are seen to the southwestward, 
 which gradually thicken and overspread the sky. The wind usually shifts to the south- 
 westward when the barometer ceases to fall, but it sometimes backs from southeast to north- 
 east, and generally goes to northwest before subsiding. Upon aliasing, tln^ stoi'ui is followed 
 by light westerly winds and comjjaratively clear weather. 
 
 * .\ Vi-ry wtnint; luiitlu'iish-rlj' I'Uirciit scttiii;^ i>ii the Yukon tlatH litis liccll ulisiTv. il, iiiininiitiiis; ut tiiiirs tu 'J'.^ knots. 
 17789 2
 
 10 
 
 J3ULLKTIN NO. 40 SECOND EDITION. 
 
 MAIL ROUTES. 
 
 From San Francisco to Unalaska, St. Michael, and points along tlie Yiikon River : About 
 May 25, Julj' 25, and Auyust 15, 1900. 
 
 From Seattle to Unalaska, St. Michael, and points along the Yukon River : About May 25, 
 June 25, and July 25, 1900. 
 
 From Sitka to Unalaska: Once a month from April to October, 1900. 
 
 From St. Michael to Golofnin and Nome : About the 1st, 9th, 17th, and 25th of each month. 
 
 From St. Michael to Eaton, Nulato (uo oflfice), Koyukuk, and Tanana: Two round trips 
 
 a month. 
 
 VARIATION OF THE COMPASS. 
 
 The magnetic variations for 1000 and annual decrease at points mentioned are as follows : 
 
 LOCM.ITV. 
 
 Cape Pankof 
 
 Uiiimak Pass ,. 
 
 Unalaska Bay 
 
 Amiikta Pass _ . . 
 
 St. George Island 
 
 St. Paul Islaud 
 
 Port Moller 
 
 Cape Coiistantine 
 
 Cape Newenliain 
 
 West of Nuiiivak Island (1.5 miles) . . . . 
 
 Cape Upright, St. Mattliew Island 
 
 Cape CliiVm ialc, St. Lawrence Island.-. 
 East of .St. Lawrence Island (li'i miles). 
 
 Cape Romanzof ^ _ . 
 
 St. Michael .. 
 
 Unalaklik _ 
 
 Cape Darl)}- 
 
 Cape Nome ... . 
 
 Sledge Island 
 
 Point Sj)encer __. 
 
 King Island ... . . _ 
 
 Diomede Islands 
 
 East Caiie 
 
 We.st of Ca])e Prince of Wales {5 miles). 
 
 Cape Espenberg 
 
 Chami.sso Island, Kotzebne Sound 
 
 Cape Blossom 
 
 Point Hope 
 
 Cape Lisburne 
 
 Point Lay . 
 
 Icy Cape 
 
 Point Belcher 
 
 Point Franklin 
 
 Point Barrow _ 
 
 Varia- 
 tion. 
 
 19 E. 
 
 m 
 
 Hi 
 16 
 
 Annual 
 de- 
 
 m 
 
 30i 
 
 2()i- 
 
 18 
 
 m 
 
 17 
 19 
 19 
 23 
 23 
 23 
 30f 
 
 m 
 
 20. Vl 
 2(4 
 19+ 
 19. 
 
 23.4 
 
 23j 
 23 
 
 38i 
 364 
 2« 
 
 4 
 3i 
 8" 
 3 
 
 i7(?); u 
 
 3 
 
 4 
 
 4* 
 
 5 
 5 
 
 7 
 
 i 
 
 6 
 
 6i 
 
 7 
 
 7 
 
 7 
 
 7 
 
 7 
 
 7 
 
 7 
 
 7 
 
 7A 
 
 8" 
 
 H 
 
 9i 
 
 10' 
 
 29i [ 10 
 29i I 11 
 83 12 
 
 TIDES— GENERAL TABLE.* 
 
 Note. — Tropic tides are those which occur near the time of the moon's greatest declina- 
 tion either north or south. The tropic lunitidal intervals are marked a or b. 
 
 a Indicates that an upper transit is to be added to the interval when the declination is 
 north, and a lower transit to be added when the declination is south. 
 
 b Indicates that a lower transit is to be added to the interval when the declination is 
 north, and an upper transit to be added when the declination is south. 
 
 The plane of reference referred to in the fable is the plane to which the soundings on 
 Coast and Geodetic Survey charts are reduced, and corresponds to the plane of mean lower 
 low water. 
 
 At places where the tides are chiefly diurnal — that is, usually having only one high and 
 one low in twenty-four hours— the interval and range of the semidiurnal tides are inclosed
 
 BERIXG SEA AND AKCTIC OCEAN. 
 
 11 
 
 in lirackets. These comparatively small semidmrnal tides, ha^dng two high and two low 
 waters each day, occur near the times of the moon's zero declination for perhaps a month 
 or more on either side of the equinoxes. 
 
 To find the time of high or low water.— At all the stations in this table, except 
 those having bracketed values, use the lunitidal intervals under "Mean tides" for a period 
 of two days before and four days after the moon's zero declination, adding them to both 
 upper and lower transits; and use the lunitidal intervals under "Tropic tides" at other 
 times, paying attention to the marking a or b. 
 
 At places having bracketed values for "Mean tides " there is usually only one high and 
 one low water, except within a month or more on either side of the equinoxes, at which 
 times, for a period of two days before and four days after the moon's zero declination, use 
 the bracketed intervals, adding them to both upper and lower transits. At other times use 
 the hmitidal intervals xmder "Tropic tides," applying them according to the marking 
 a or b. 
 
 NAME. 
 
 Geogbaphicai. Position, 
 
 Lati- 
 tude. 
 
 ALASKA. 
 
 Aleutian Islands. 
 
 Dutch Harlior, Uiialaska Island. 
 
 Adakh Island 
 
 Kiska Island 
 
 Attu Island 
 
 Bering Sea. 
 
 St. Paul Island, Pribilof Islands. 
 
 Goorinews Ba.v 
 
 Kuskokwim Bay 
 
 St. Matthew Island 
 
 St. Lawrence Island 
 
 Norton Sound. 
 
 Cape Ronian7(.f 
 
 Kripniyuk, Yukon Uelta 
 
 Kwikliiwak Pas.**, Yukon Delta. 
 Kwikpak Pas-s, Yukiin I>elta__. 
 
 A| ri Pass, Yok.in Delta 
 
 PikniiktJitik 
 
 Canal Point 
 
 St. Michael 
 
 North Bav, Stuart Islaad 
 
 GolofninBay 
 
 Cape Nome 
 
 Port Clarence 
 
 Arctic Ocean. 
 
 Chamisso Island, KotzebueSd _. 
 
 Point Barrow 
 
 ilerschel Island 
 
 SIBERIA. 
 
 Bering Sea — Continued. 
 
 St. Lawrence Bay 
 
 Pluver Bay _ 
 
 .\nailir Bay 
 
 (;ape Oliutorsk 
 
 Bering l.,Konuindorski Islands 
 
 m 63 
 61 49 
 
 61 49 
 
 62 66 
 
 67 08 
 
 59 02 
 f<9 40 
 
 60 20 
 m 20 
 
 61 49 
 
 62 20 
 
 62 37 
 
 63 00 
 63 05 
 63 16 
 63 24 
 63 29 
 
 63 37 
 
 64 32 
 
 64 29 
 
 65 17 
 
 66 15 
 71 18 
 6S 37 
 
 65 38 
 64 22 
 64 43 
 69 55 
 55 14 
 
 Longitude. 
 
 166 32 
 176 .62 
 182 30 
 186 48 
 
 170 18 
 161 46 
 161 50 
 \Ti 26 
 170 UU 
 
 166 05 
 li;5 19 
 164 51 
 104 45 
 
 163 32 
 162 34 
 162 23 
 162 02 
 162 30 J 
 103 00 ' 
 
 164 46 
 lliO 61 
 
 LlNITlDAL lNTEIt\ AI,. 
 
 161 45 10 47 
 1.56 40 10 27 
 138 66 9 16 
 
 189 00 
 186 38 I 
 178 20 
 170 21 
 165 62 
 
 12 36 
 12 27 
 11 63 
 11 21 
 11 03 
 
 High 
 water. 
 
 ;.. m. 
 
 11 06 
 
 11 47 
 
 12 M 
 12 27 
 
 11 21 
 
 10 47 
 
 10 47 
 
 11 3" 
 11 20 
 
 11 01 
 
 II 01 
 10 .59 
 10 .59 
 10 .54 
 1(J .5(1 
 
 III 49 i 
 10 48 
 10 .50 
 
 10 r,-i 
 
 10 50 
 
 11 07 
 
 h. VI. 
 3 50 
 3 25 
 3 311 
 3 35 
 
 4 17 
 6 15 
 6 25 
 
 4 40 
 
 5 36 
 
 12 00 
 60 
 
 3 o5 
 2 42 
 
 6 ,60 
 
 7 lo 
 
 7 28' 
 
 8 06' 
 7 .50' 
 6 05" 
 
 "2 49 
 
 4 00 
 
 7 45 
 11 41 
 4 60 
 
 101 
 
 5 321 
 
 6 05] 
 00 
 
 4 00 
 
 Low 
 water. 
 
 Jk m. 
 9 68 
 9 38 
 9 43 
 9 48 
 
 10 29 
 15 
 
 11 00 
 11 .60 
 
 5 50 
 
 7 10 
 10 .50 
 
 9 56 
 I Oil 
 1 46 
 I 30 
 
 1 20 
 
 2 30' 
 112 00 
 
 8 26 
 10 10 
 
 1 50 
 5 33 
 11 05 
 
 12 10 
 
 11 32' 
 
 12 0.6' 
 12 15' 
 10 13 
 
 Tropic tides. 
 
 Higher Lower 
 high low 
 water, water. 
 
 Range of Tiok. 
 
 A. n». 
 5 46« 
 4 .5311 
 4 56.1 
 4 67.1 
 
 6 16.1 
 
 7 38a 
 
 7 1 8.1 
 27.1 
 
 8 Olii 
 
 11 2.5.1 
 
 ml, 
 
 1 59(- 
 1 431, 
 6 hull 
 6 10/. 
 
 6 40t 
 
 7 066 
 6 501, 
 5 0.56 
 1 346 
 3 166 
 
 7 34<i 
 11 20.1 
 5 17a 
 
 6 176 
 
 4 39(. 
 6 126 
 
 5 006 
 3 036 
 
 li. 111. 
 9 606 
 9 326 
 9 376 
 9 426 
 
 10 376 
 21a 
 
 2!l,i 
 
 11 IIS6 
 
 12 016 
 
 6 1.56 
 
 7 416 
 II 396 
 10 .■(96 
 
 2 30(1 
 
 3 1.5,1 
 
 3 40a 
 2 52.1 
 
 4 00.1 
 0.6a 
 9 226 
 
 10 436 
 
 1 39a 
 5 12a 
 12 086 
 
 14 456 
 14 106 
 14 406 
 12 276 
 10 266 
 
 Mean. 
 
 (Mu.) 
 
 Fei-t. 
 2.3 
 4.0 
 4.1 
 4.5 
 
 2.1 
 4.1 
 
 10.1 
 2.4 
 
 1.3 
 
 0.4 
 1.8 
 
 Great 
 
 tropic. 
 (Uc.) 
 
 Feel. 
 6.0 
 7.6 
 7.7 
 8.3 
 
 4.0 
 
 6.7 
 
 14.2 
 
 4.4 
 
 2.8 
 
 7.4 
 6.8 
 2.4 
 3.1 
 4.8 
 6.0 
 4.9 
 4.5 
 4.1 
 4.3 
 4.0 
 4.5 
 
 Mean 
 diurnal. H.W.Q. 
 ^Gt. 
 
 1.8 
 0.7 
 2.9 
 
 4.2 
 4.4 
 10.5 
 4.8 
 5.0 
 
 Feel. 
 4.3 
 B.7 
 6.8 
 7.4 
 
 3.6 
 6.0 
 13.2 
 3. 9 
 2.4 
 
 6.3 
 2.2 
 2 8 
 3. 6 
 3.8 
 3.6 
 3.3 
 3.0 
 3.2 
 3.3 
 4.1 
 
 1.7 
 0. 6 
 2.6 
 
 3.2 
 S.3 
 7.8 
 4.4 
 
 4.6 
 
 Ftcl. 
 1.5 
 2.0 
 2.0 
 2.1 
 
 0.0 
 
 0.8 
 1.3 
 0.6 
 0.6 
 
 1.2 
 1.3 
 
 F^el. 
 4.4 
 6.8 
 5.8 
 6.1 
 
 3,6 
 4.9 
 7.7 
 3.7 
 
 2.7 
 
 3.1 
 2.7 
 1.6 
 1.8 
 
 1.1 1 
 
 1.7 
 
 0.7 
 0.4 
 1.6 
 
 0.7 1 
 0.7 
 
 1.4 
 2.4 
 
 0.2 
 0.1 
 0.9 
 
 2.8 
 2.9 
 
 Feel. 
 0.4 
 0.6 
 0.5 
 0.6 
 
 0.3 
 0.4 
 0.5 
 0.4 
 0.2 
 
 0. 1 
 0.1 
 0.6 
 0.6 
 0.5 
 O.li 
 0.6 
 0.6 
 0.3 
 0.2 
 
 (1.1 
 (I. 1 
 I". 1 
 
 1.4 
 
 0. 2 
 
 • Tide tallies for the Pjicific coast, publislie.l anonally hy the Unito.l States Coast ami Geodetic Survey, predicting 
 tides for every day of the year, can be obtained from the agents named in the list given on page 5; price, 10 cents. 
 
 the times and heij^tits of
 
 12 
 
 BULLEXm NO. 40 SECOND EDITION. 
 
 TIDE TABI.E-ST. 3UCHAEL. (XOKTOX SOUXD), AliASKA, 11K)0. 
 
 The harbor of St. Michael, NortoD Souiul, 
 isi>pfii tn navigation, onini average, by the 
 iiiicidle of .III lie. t lie time of breaking up of 
 the ice varying from about the last week 
 ol May to tlie last week of June. The sea- 
 son of navigation usually closes in ibebit- 
 ter part of October. 
 
 The winds in suninieraro gener;illy mod- 
 erate; but (luring September andOctoiier 
 gales are strong and li'eqiient. nortlierly 
 winds pretlominating. These strong 
 win<U fli'e of sjiecial iiaportance to man- 
 ners on account of tiieir etiect on the 
 height of the water; northerly and east- 
 ei'ly winds lower the wjiter and southerly 
 and westerly winds raise it. With north- 
 erly winds of long duraticui the amount of 
 ehiinge may be as much as 5 feet below 
 mean low water. 
 
 The time and height of the tide at tlie 
 following at;iti(>ns may be found by apply- 
 ing the ditb-reiircs ^iveu below to the jue- 
 diclions for St. Michael: 
 
 .2 S 
 
 Pi 
 
 1.20 
 1.11 
 1.00 
 0.98 
 1. 00 
 
 
 ■1 
 i 
 
 •A 
 
 ^1 + 
 
 a 
 
 1 
 
 
 Feel. 
 + 0.9 
 + 0.6 
 
 0.0 
 — 0.1 
 
 0.0 
 
 '•5 
 H 
 
 
 .*• 00 ^ O CI 00 
 .ooom = 
 
 "'++ ++ 
 
 
 
 3 
 
 6 
 
 
 a 
 
 
 
 
 - ■ - c ■ 
 
 £. : = 3 : 
 < :if : 
 
 a • S = • 
 
 III 
 
 JUNE. 
 
 E Til 
 
 A 
 
 w 
 
 B Day of— 
 
 o 
 
 I W. il. 
 
 ■F 1 
 
 S 2 
 
 3 
 
 4 
 5 
 6 
 
 Th, 7 I 
 F 8 
 S 9 
 
 S 10; 
 
 M U 
 
 s Tn 11' 
 
 W 13 
 
 Til II 
 
 F 15 
 
 S 1« 
 
 S 17 
 
 I' M 18 
 
 « Tn 19] 
 
 \V 20 
 
 Tb 21 
 
 F 22 
 
 S ,23 
 
 S 
 
 NJM 
 
 9 In 26 
 Wj 27 
 Th 28 
 F 29 
 
 s 'so 
 
 Time aud Height of Higli am" 
 Low water. 
 
 9:46 . 18:55 . 
 
 4. 1 — 0. 6 . 
 
 10:32 19:18 . 
 
 3.8—0.4 . 
 
 11:24 19:37 . 
 
 3. 3 — 0. 3 . 
 
 12:10 19:54 . 
 
 2. 8 — 0. 1 . 
 
 13:04 20:12 . 
 
 2. 3 U. . 
 
 13:55 20:34 . 
 
 1. 7 0. I . 
 
 6:03 13:08 15:05 21:00 
 
 2.8 1.2 1.5 2.8 
 
 5:20 14:00 
 
 3.1 0.8 
 
 5:40 14:43 
 
 3.3 0.3 
 
 6:00 15:32 
 
 3. 6 0. 1 
 
 6.25 16:16 
 
 3.9 -0.2 
 
 6:52 17:00 
 
 4.2 —0.4 
 
 7:20 17:35 
 
 4.4 —0.6 
 
 8:00 18:08 
 
 4.5 —0.6 
 
 8:37 18:36 
 
 4. 5 —0. 5 
 
 9:19 18:-17 
 
 4.2 —0.4 
 
 10:08 18:.i5 . . 
 
 3.9 —0.3 . . 
 
 11:00 19:011 . . 
 
 3.3 —0.2 . . 
 
 11:50 19:12 . . 
 
 2.7 0.0.. 
 
 3:00 7:20 12:.iO 19 ::;.i 
 
 2. 1 1.5 2 1 U. 1 
 
 3:23 10:50 13:10 20:02 
 
 2.7 1.4 15 0.2 
 
 3:53 12:28 
 
 3.3 0.7 
 
 4:29 13:35 
 
 3.7 0.2 
 
 5:09 14:30 
 
 4.2 —0.2 
 
 5:.'il 15:20 
 
 4.5 —0.5 
 
 6:35 10:02 
 
 4.6 —0.7 
 
 7:17 16:43 
 
 4.6 —0.7 
 
 7:58 17:19 
 
 4. 5 —0. 6 
 
 8:41 17:48 
 
 4. 2 —0. 5 
 
 9:22 18:12 
 
 3. 8 —0. 3 
 
 JULY. 
 
 B Day of— I 
 
 a w. M. I 
 s 1 
 
 EM 2 
 
 i ■ I 
 A Tu 3j 
 
 p \V 4 1 
 
 Th 5 
 
 F 6 
 
 S 7 
 
 S 8 
 
 s >1 9 
 
 Tu 10 
 
 .■n 
 
 O Th 12[ 
 
 F 13 
 
 S II 
 
 P S 15 
 
 E M Hi 
 Tii 17 
 
 <: \V 18 
 Th 19 
 F 20 
 S !-21| 
 
 I I 
 
 N I S ' 22 1 
 
 M 
 
 23 
 
 Tu 
 
 24 
 
 W 
 
 25: 
 
 Th 26 
 F 27 
 S '28 
 S 29 
 M,30 
 Tu' 31 
 
 Tim© and" Height of High and 
 Low Water. 
 
 10:05 18:35 . . . . '. . 
 
 3.4 -0.2 
 
 10:48 18:42 
 
 2.9 0.0 
 
 11:28 18:48 
 
 2. 3 0. 1 
 
 3:40 111:05 
 
 2. 4 0. 1 
 
 3:.'i:'l 19:35 
 
 2.6 0.2 
 
 4:05 19:55 
 
 2.9 0.3 
 
 4:22 20:02 
 
 3.3 0.3 
 
 4:45 14:34 
 
 3. 5 0. 2 
 
 5:07 15:10 
 
 3. 8 0. I 
 
 5:40 15:50 
 
 4.2 -0.3 
 
 6:16 16:24 
 
 4.4 —0.5 
 
 6:57 16:53 
 
 4.5 —0,4 
 
 7:37 17:08 
 
 4.4 —0.3 
 
 8:23 17:18 
 
 4.2 —0 2 
 
 9.10 17.23 
 
 3.8 0.(1 
 
 10.04 17:311 
 
 3. .) 0, 1 
 
 1:10 4:15 1U:.18 17:54 
 
 1.6 1,4 2.7 0.2 
 
 1:32 6:01 11:58 18:26 
 
 2.0 l.:'> 2 1 0.3 
 
 1:52 8:25 13:03 18:55 
 
 2.6 1.3 1.5 0.3 
 
 2:35 10:52 14:12 19:24 
 
 3.1 0.8 1.5 0.2 
 
 3:18 12:10 17:07 19:45 
 
 3.6 J 0.8 0.2 
 
 3:57 13:1(1 
 
 4. 0. (I 
 
 4:28 13:47 
 
 4.2 —0.3 
 
 3:10 14:34 
 
 4.3 —0.3 
 
 5:55 15:12 
 
 4.3 —0.5 
 
 6:40 13:J8 
 
 4.2 —0.3 
 
 7:20 16:15 
 
 3. 9 —0. 1 .■ 
 
 8:03 10:30 
 
 3. 6 0. 1 
 
 8:47 16:35 
 
 3.2 0. 2 
 
 9:37 16:45 
 
 2.7 0.3 - .... . 
 10:20 17:03 
 
 2. 2 0. 3 
 
 The tidis :in' phuiil in the onleiot "iiurrenre, with tliiir tinies on (hi- lirst lino and heights on the second lini- of i-.uh d:iy ; 
 a comparison iif con.'iecutivc h..i.-hts will indicate whedicr it i.s hij;h orl.iw water. 
 
 The time ii.icd is .Mean Li>i':il Civil tor the nnTiili:iu 165° VV. ; 0'' is niiduisht. 12'' is noon: all hours less than 12 are in the 
 morning, all gre:iter are in the afternuon, and when diminished by 12 give the usual reckoning; for instance, l.".'' is 3 p. m. TI.e 
 heiglits, in feet and tenths, are reckoned from the I'hine of Mean Diurnal Lmv U':it.-r. which is apiiroximalely the datum of 
 soundings on the Coast :ind C.codcdc Survey Charts for this region, and which is 1.5 feet below mean sea level. .Symbols and 
 abbreviations relating to the moon: ©. '"'w moon: J, 1st qiiar.; O- full moon: c. 3d quae. ; E, moon on the equator: X, S, moon 
 farthest north or south of the equator; A, P, moon in apogee or perigee.
 
 BERING SKA AND AIU'TIC OCEAX. 
 
 13 
 
 TIDK TABLE— ST. MICIIAi:!. (NORTON SOUND), AT.ASKA, 1!)00. 
 
 AUGUST. 
 
 g 
 
 Day of— 
 
 s 
 
 W. 
 
 M. 
 
 
 W 
 
 1 
 
 
 Th 
 
 2 
 
 !> 
 
 F 
 
 3 
 
 
 S 
 
 4 
 
 
 S 
 
 5 
 
 Time and Hi'igtit of Higli ami 
 Low WatiT. 
 
 M , 6 
 Til 7 
 
 w; 8 
 
 Th 9 
 F [10 
 
 S 1 11 
 
 s!i2 
 M 13 ; 
 
 Tu, 14 
 1 W 15 
 Til 16 
 
 1 
 
 F 17 
 
 N' S 
 
 W:22 
 
 Tb 23 
 
 I 
 F 24 
 
 25 
 
 S|26 
 
 M 27 
 
 Til 28 
 
 j 
 
 W,29 
 Th 30 
 F 31 
 
 1:31 
 2.1 
 
 1:37 
 2.4 
 
 2:U5 
 2.7 
 
 2:30 
 3.0 
 
 3:00 
 3.3 
 
 3:32 
 3.6 
 
 4:10 
 3.8 
 
 4:48 
 4.0 
 
 5:32 
 4.1 
 
 6:17 
 4.0 
 
 7:06 
 3.8 
 
 0:10 
 0.9 
 
 1:40 
 1.0 
 
 3:10 
 1.2 
 
 4:46 
 1.2 
 
 6:28 
 1.0 
 
 0:38 
 
 3.0 
 
 2:20 
 3.7 
 
 3:10 
 3.9 
 
 4:00 
 3.0 
 
 4:48 
 3.9 
 
 5:35 
 3.7 
 
 6:20 
 3.4 
 
 7:05 
 3.1 
 
 0:.55 
 1.4 
 
 2:12 
 1.4 
 
 3:27 
 
 1.4 
 
 5:00 
 1.4 
 
 7:10 
 1.3 
 
 7:24 11:10 17:33 
 
 1.4 1.8 0.4 
 
 10:115 12:05 18:00 
 
 1.4 1.5 0.5 
 
 18:17 
 
 0.6 
 
 12:07 
 
 0.7 
 12:50 
 
 0.3 . 
 
 14:05 
 
 -0.1 
 14:34 
 
 14:58 . 
 
 —0.1 . 
 
 15:08 . 
 
 0.0 . 
 
 0.2 
 
 7:.')8 15:25 22:04 
 
 3. 5 0. 3 1.5 
 
 8:50 15:45 22:36 
 
 3. 1 0. 5 1. 7 
 
 9:52 16:15 23:16 
 
 2. 5 0. 5 2. 2 
 
 10:57 16:46 23:.50 
 
 1.0 0.6 2.6 
 
 12:06 17:18 . . . 
 
 1.5 0.6 .. . 
 
 8:20 13:15 17:51 
 
 0. 8 1. 5 0. 6 
 
 10:11 14:.=i0 18:24 
 
 0. 4 2. 0. 7 
 
 11:18 
 
 12:12 
 —0.1 
 
 14:15 20:30 22:31 
 
 0.1 1,7 0.9 
 
 14:38 20:51 23:40 
 
 0.3 1.7 1.2 
 
 14:55 21:31 . . . 
 
 0.5 1.5 .. . 
 
 7:54 1S:I0 22:07 
 
 2. 8 0. 6 1.7 
 
 8:47 15:25 22:38 
 
 2. 3 0. 7 2. 
 
 9:36 15:41 22:.'i8 
 
 1.9 0. 8 2. 2 
 
 10:32 16:02 23:25 
 
 1. 5 0. 9 2. 4 
 
 11:30 16:24 23:57 
 
 1. 5 0. 9 2. 6 
 
 12:30 16:40 . . . 
 
 1.8 0.9 .. . 
 
 SEPTEMBER. 
 
 a Dayof- 
 
 ^ W. 
 
 1) ! s 
 
 - 
 
 sj S 
 M 
 Tu 
 W 
 Th 
 F 
 
 Time and Hei^litof High ;iiiil 
 Low Wftlei-. 
 
 ii« 
 
 2 
 
 3) 
 4 
 
 5; 
 
 6 
 
 7 
 
 8 
 
 p S 9 
 
 1 : i 
 
 M 10 
 
 Tn 11 
 
 \V 12 
 
 Th 13 
 
 F 14 
 
 1 
 
 N s 1 15 ; 
 
 « I I ( 
 
 S 16 
 
 M 17 
 
 Tu 18 
 
 I 
 
 W 19 
 
 ! 
 
 Th 20 
 Fi21 
 
 E S 22 j 
 9 S 23 
 
 A I 
 
 M , 24 
 Tu 25 
 WJ26 
 Th| 27 
 
 F 28; 
 
 1 I 
 S 29 
 
 S 30 
 
 0:34 9:56 . . 
 
 2.9 0.6 . . 
 
 1:12 10:50 . . 
 
 3.1 0.4 . . 
 
 1:50 11:28 . . 
 
 3.4 0.2 . . 
 
 2. -.38 12:03 . . 
 
 3.5 0.1 . . 
 
 3:27 12:30 . . 
 
 3. (1 0. 1 . . 
 
 4:1.") 12:3.T . . 
 
 3.0 0.2 . . 
 
 5:10 12:47 . . 
 
 3.5 0. 3 . . 
 
 6:03 13:11 19 :.36 . . . 
 
 3.2 0.5 1.5 .. . 
 
 0:00 6:58 13:36 20:08 
 
 1.0 2.9 0.7 1.8 
 
 1:14 8:00 14:11 20:47 
 
 0.9 2.5 0.8 2.2 
 
 2:35 9:08 14:3S 21:23 
 
 0.8 2.1 0.9 2.6 
 
 3:46 10:14 15:07 22:04 
 
 0.7 1.6 0.9 3.0 
 
 5:07 11:28 15:38 22:.55 
 
 0.5 1.5 0.9 3.3 
 
 6:43 12:48 10:10 23:47 
 
 0.4 1.3 0.8 3.5 
 
 8:18 14:15 
 
 0.2 1.0 
 
 0:45 9:25 
 
 3.7 0.0 
 
 l::i'.l 10:3(1 
 
 3.7 0.0 
 
 2:.I2 11:14 
 
 3.0 0.0 
 
 3:.30 11:47 18:20 21:12 
 
 3.4 0.2 1.5 1.4 
 
 4:18 12:11 18:48 22:27 
 
 3.1 0.3 1.5 1.4 
 
 5:14 12:30 19:18 21:43 
 
 2.8 0.5 1.7 1.4 
 
 6:13 12:.5n 10:46 . . . 
 
 2.5 0.7 1.9 .. . 
 
 1:05 7:08 13:10 20:117 
 
 1.3 2.1 0.8 2.2 
 
 2:18 8:02 13:26 20:28 
 
 1.2 1.8 0.9 2.4 
 
 3:26 9:00 13:44 21:00 
 
 1. 1 1. 5 1.0 2. 
 
 4:28 10:15 11:02 21:32 
 
 1.0 1.5 1.0 2.8 
 
 5:55 
 0.8 
 
 22:04 
 
 3.0 
 
 7:10 
 0.5 
 
 22:42 
 
 3.2 
 
 8:00 
 0.3 
 
 23:32 
 
 3.3 
 
 8:45 
 
 
 0.2 
 
 
 Day of— I 
 
 wJm. 
 
 OCTOBER. 
 
 Time ami Height of Higli ;uicl 
 Low Water. 
 
 » |M I 1 
 1 ' 
 Tu 2 
 I 
 W 3 
 
 111 4 
 
 F 5 
 
 E S 
 
 i 
 
 PS 
 
 o'm 
 I 
 ;tu 9 
 
 w 10 
 
 Th 11 
 N F|12 
 
 S ' 13 
 « ' S j u 
 M 15 
 Tu 16 
 W 17 
 Th 18 
 
 0:07 
 3.4 
 
 0:58 
 3.3 
 
 1:55 
 3.4 
 
 2: -.7 
 3.2 
 
 3:58 
 3.0 
 
 5:00 
 2.6 
 
 6:05 
 2.2 
 
 1:00 
 0.9 
 
 2:02 
 0.5 
 
 3:22 
 
 0.4 
 
 9:15 
 0.0 
 
 10:02 
 0.0 
 
 10:30 17:45 21:00 
 
 0.2 1.5 1.4 
 
 10:54 18:02 22:23 
 
 0.4 1.6 1.4 
 
 11:22 18:20 23:42 
 
 0. 5 2. 1. 1 
 
 11:57 18:44 . . . 
 
 0.8 2.4 .. . 
 
 7:13 12:22 19:14 
 
 1.9 0.9 2.0 
 
 8:23 12:48 19:53 
 
 1.6 1.9 3.2 
 
 9:42 13:12 20:40 
 
 1. 5 0. 8 3. 6 
 
 4:45 
 0.0 
 
 21:26 
 
 3.8 
 
 6:02 
 —0.2 
 
 22:16 
 
 3.9 
 
 7:07 
 —0.3 
 
 23:08 
 
 3.9 
 
 8:02 
 
 
 0.3 
 
 0:00 
 3.7 
 
 8:46 
 
 -0.3 
 
 0:51 
 3.5 
 
 9:20 
 
 -0.1 
 
 E F 
 
 A S 
 
 1!) 
 
 20 
 
 S 
 M 
 
 a Tu 
 
 1 
 
 W i 24 
 
 Th 25 
 
 i I 
 
 F 26 
 
 ] 
 
 S ' S 27 
 
 S '28 
 
 I 
 M 29 
 
 B Tu 30 
 
 W 31 
 
 1:.53 
 3.2 
 
 2:54 
 2.8 
 
 3:55 
 2.4 
 
 0:02 
 1.5 
 
 1:40 
 
 1.2 
 
 2:46 
 0.9 
 
 3:50 
 0.7 
 
 4:42 
 0.5 
 
 5:31 
 0.2 
 
 6:11 
 0.0 
 
 6:46 
 
 —0.1 
 
 7:12 
 -0.3 
 
 7:35 
 —0.3 
 
 7:.56 
 —0.3 
 
 8:25 
 —0.2 
 
 9:45 17:23 20:20 
 
 0.0 1.6 1.) 
 
 10:05 17:47 22:05 
 
 0.2 2.1 1.0 
 
 10:22 18:03 . . . 
 
 0.4 2.2 .. . 
 
 4:50 10:48 18:20 
 
 1.9 0.5 2.4 
 
 5:52 11:13 18:42 
 
 1.6 0. 7 2. 7 
 
 7:00 11:34 19:13 
 
 1. ,-| 0. 8 2. 
 
 19:38 
 
 20:07 
 3.4 
 
 20:35 
 3.0 
 
 21:09 
 3.7 
 
 21:46 
 3.8 
 
 22:30 . 
 
 3.7 . 
 
 23:10 . 
 
 3.6 . 
 
 23:45 . 
 
 3.3 . 
 
 The ti)le« are plaeeil in the oriler ol oecuiTence, with Iheir times on the Hnst line au<I heights on the .second line of e;ich day; 
 a comparison nf conatM-nlivo liei;;litH will indicate whethec it is hij;li or low water. 
 
 The time use<l is Mean Local Civil for the rncridnin Hi.'' W.; 0'' is mulni^^ht. TJi" is noon; all hours less tlnin 12 :ire in the 
 inornin;;. all ^'re;itcr iirc in the jiflcinoon, :ind when diminished hy 12 ;;ive the usiuil reckoninj^, fbr instance, 15i' is 3 p. m. The 
 heights, in feet and ti^nths. are reckoned frotn the Thme of Me lu Diiirniil Low Wjiter, which is :tl)proxim:ltely the diltnm of 
 soundings on the Co:i8t and Gciidetic .Survey Charts for this region, iind which is 1.5 feet helow mean sea level. Symhols and 
 ahbreriations relating to the moon : 0, now moon : B , Ist quar. : Oi full moon ; (1 , 3d quar. : E, moon on tlie equator; N, S, moon 
 farthest north or sout.h of the equator; A, P, moon in apogee or perigee.
 
 14 
 
 BULLETIN NO. 40 — SECOND EDITION. 
 
 ICB CONDITIONS AND FIRST ANNUAL ARRITAL OF VESSELS AT ST. MICHAEL,, 
 
 ALASKA. 
 
 (From records of Alaska Commercial Company.) 
 
 YE.\R. 
 
 Ice Movino out of 
 
 First Arrival 
 
 First Arrival 
 
 Ice Forminc. in St. , 
 
 St. Michael Bay. 
 
 FROM YCKiiN Ul\K1l. 
 
 ruoM Sea. 
 
 HiciiAEi. Bav. 
 
 1878 
 
 
 
 Julv 1. 
 
 Oct. 18-22. 
 
 1879 
 
 1880 
 
 
 
 June 33. 
 June 28. 
 
 Oct. 21-35 
 Oct. 20-27. 
 
 June 22. 
 
 
 18S1 
 1883 
 
 June 10. 
 June 8. 
 
 
 June 19. 
 June 34. 
 
 Nov. 7. 
 Oct. 23. 
 
 June 17. 
 
 1883 
 
 June 1. 
 
 June 10. 
 
 June 32. 
 
 Nov. 6. 
 
 1884 
 
 June 10 
 
 June 17. 
 
 
 Oct. 6. 
 
 1885 
 1886 
 
 1887 
 1888 
 
 
 
 June 34. 
 June 20. 
 June 20. 
 June 35. 
 
 
 June 11. 
 
 
 Oct. 22. 1 
 Oct. 29-Nov. 6. 
 Oct. 23-31. 
 
 June 15. 
 June 8. 
 
 May 31 
 
 1889 
 
 June 9. 
 
 June 13. 
 
 July 4. 
 
 Nov. 10-16. 
 
 1890 
 
 June 3. 
 
 June 6. 
 
 Julv 13. 
 
 Oct. 25-Nov. 9. 
 
 1891 
 
 June 6. 
 
 June 7. 
 
 June 39. 
 
 Nov. 6. 
 
 1892 
 
 June 11. 
 
 June 7. 
 
 June 18. 
 
 Oct. 39. 
 
 1893 
 
 June 10. 
 
 June 14. 
 
 June 34. 
 
 Nov. 7. 
 
 18^14 
 
 June 15. 
 
 June 18, 
 
 June 25. 
 
 Oct. 36. 
 
 1895 
 
 June 18. 
 
 June 19. 
 
 June 29. 
 
 Oct.24-Nov.4. 
 
 1896 
 
 June 25. 
 
 June 27. 
 
 Julv 7. 
 
 Nov. 2. 
 
 1897 
 
 June 14. 
 
 June 22. 
 
 June 26. 
 
 Oct. 18-21. 
 
 1898 
 
 June 13. 
 
 
 June 13. 
 
 Oct. 20-31. 
 
 1899 
 
 June 10. 
 
 June 16. 
 
 June 17. 
 
 
 ISANOTSKI STRAIT. 
 
 The navigation of this pass attracts attention as it has been vised to some extent by 
 light-draft craft built in Puget Soniid ports for service on the Yukon River. It is the 
 l^ractice for these vessels to go through the inland passages of Southeast Alaska, out through 
 Cross Sound, and coast around, watching the weather, going behind the islands off Alaska 
 Peninsula and through Isanotski Strait or Unimak Pass. Isanotski Strait is preferable to 
 Uuiniak Pass for light-draft river vessels because it is nearer and has many sheltered 
 anchorages and places where fi"esh water can be obtained. Between twelve and twenty 
 vessels were taken through this strait in 1898, and it might be more generally used if more 
 was known about its northern entrance, which is considered dangerous, on account of the 
 uncertain knowledge of the location of the dangers, and want of information regarding the 
 strong tidal currents, which are affected by strong northerly or southerly winds. 
 
 There is a very extensive shoal, or flat, in the northern and widest portion of the strait, 
 lying to the eastward of the channel way and southward of the outlet into Bering Sea. Just 
 outside of this outlet, at a distance supposed to be between 1 and 2 miles, is a line of shoals, 
 with breakers, which extend from the northeast point of Unimak Island in a northeasterly 
 direction for 5 or 6 miles parallel with the coast. 
 
 The following has been orally communicated by Capt. J. L. Fi.sher, who commanded 
 one of the eleven Moran stern-wheel steamboats that went through the pass in company 
 during the summer of 1898: 
 
 "In entering from the eastward, it is desirable, in passing through Ikalan Bay, to stand 
 well over toward its northwestern shore, then head up for the easterly side of the entrance 
 to the strait, thus giving the rocks on the westerly point inside its entrance a good berth. 
 When past these rocks, cross back to the west side of the pass to clear the spit making off 
 the sharp point of the eastern shore of the narrows. Then, if bound through, keep the 
 westerly side until the northeast end of Unimak Island is reached. 
 
 "Abreast Morzhovoi Peninsula there is a large shoal in the middle of the pass, which 
 must be avoided by keeping to the westward of it. In the northern and widest portion of 
 the pass there is a very extensive shoal, with the channel along its western edge. This 
 shoal extends very close to the northeast point of Unimak Island, the channel between the
 
 CAPE PANKOF, SW., DISTANT 6 MILES.
 
 BEIUXG SEA AND ARCTIC OCEAN. 15 
 
 point and the slioal being quite narrow, with the least depth of water of any place known in 
 the strait, there being not more than 12 feet. 
 
 "From close inside the northwest point the channel crosses the entrance and passes just 
 outside the very long and low northeast point, with about 18 feet of water, for 3 or 3 miles, 
 parallel with and between tlie .shore of the {Deninsula and the offshore shoal with breakers, 
 until the latter is passed, when the course can be squared away out into Bering Sea." Apple- 
 gate slidws tJie channel as leading close to the end of the sandspit on the northeast point of 
 Uniniak Island and then to th.e westward close to the northern side of the sand spit, between 
 the latter and the shoal lying off the outlet of the strait. 
 
 "Morzhovoi Peninsula is a high pi'omontoiy, but the neck connecting it with the 
 mainland is \ery Inw. This, with the low country to the northeastward, extending from 
 the east side of the north entrance to the strait all the way to Cape Glasenap, allows the 
 north and northeasterly winds to blow across tlie northerly and wider portion of the strait 
 and draw through Morzhov(n Bay with a great deal of force. 
 
 "There is a rocky spit making off the southwest point at the entrance to Morzhovoi 
 Bay." 
 
 Tides. — There is little known regai-ding tlie tides in Morzhovoi Bay, excej^t that they 
 are much influenced by the winds. It is reported that the current in the strait runs north 
 loh. 30ni., and south 8h. 30m. In the narrow x*art of the strait south of Morzhovoi Bay, 
 the tidal current is said to attain a velocity of from 7 to 9 knots. 
 
 ANCHORAGES. 
 
 Lieut. Commander F. J. Drake, U. S. N., commanding U. S. S. Albatross, 1895, says: 
 "In Ikatan Bay good holding groimd is found in a small cove immediately west of 
 Ikatok Point, on the south side of the bay, which offers good protection with winds from 
 southeast to southwest. For winds from northeast to northwest, a safe anchorage is found 
 on the north side of the bay west of Sankin Island, close to and iinder the bluff east of the 
 entrance to the strait. Both anchorages are free from the rush of the tidal current, which 
 has a velocity of 7 to 9 knots in the pass. 
 
 " Morzhovoi Bay. — Morzhovoi Village is situated on a low, sloping bluff terminating in 
 a rocky and gravelly spit on the south shore of Morzhovoi Bay. Fresh water can be 
 obtained at the southeast corner of the bay, near the village. An anchorage may be made 
 in the middle of the bay off the village, with the Greek church bearing S. ^ E., depth 4^ 
 fathoms, muddy bottom and good holding ground. A high bluff on the north side forms a 
 good protection from northerly winds, which, however, are drawn through the bay with 
 much force at times from the eastward." 
 
 COAST FR03I ISANOTSKI STKAIT TO UNIMAK PASS. 
 
 PROMINENT FEATURES. 
 
 Sannak Islands. —The most noticeable features of Sannak Island are the closely con- 
 nected peaks eastward of Acherk Harbor and the numerous outlying rocks and islands. 
 Sannak Peak, 1,850 feet higli, has been seen from the westward at a distance of 65 miles. It 
 is tliought that these Islands are a few miles southward and eastward from their positions 
 as given on the chart. The vicinity of Sannak Islands is extremely dangerous, and 
 no effort should be made to make Sannak Peak as a landmark from the southwai'd. The 
 numerous reefs and I'ocks surrounding the islands, especially on their southern and western 
 sides, and tlie'r uncertain positions, should warn the navigator to give them a wide berth. 
 
 Cape Pankof has three rugged points close together, and there is a reef j^artially above 
 water extending about ^ mile E. by S. from the middle point. Tlie land back of the cape 
 is low', so that at a distance the cape appears as an island. A reef makes off eastward 
 from the cape for a distance of about i mile, and tide rips and broken water extend some 
 distances off the cape.
 
 16 BULLETIN NO. 40 — SECOND EDITION. 
 
 Cape Lazaref is a rocky point with a ledge extending from it SE. about 1 mile; there 
 ai'e tliree rocks above water nearly equidistant from the cape. There are two bold, rocky 
 points immediately east of Cape Lazaref, with small beaches between them. In fact, the 
 cape miglit hk said to be formed by three points, as they all lie within 1^ miles. 
 
 Tlie Promontory forms tlie western end of Unimak Bay. On the northern and south- 
 ern sides it slopes away gradually, while the crest (grass-covered in summer) is joined to 
 the central mountain system of Unimak Island by a lower connecting ridge. The seaward 
 face terminates in a vertical cliff having a low rocky foot with outlying ledges, and a small 
 rocky islet off it. 
 
 From the Promontory a low belt of land extends southward to a steep hill, which 
 lies northeastward of Cape Khituk. It is apparently composed of volcanic rock and detritus, 
 about 700 feet high, detached from the interior high lands by intervening valleys. The 
 seaward face is a bluff, with detritus at its foot, partly covered during the summer with 
 grass and sloping toward the water. It is an important landmark. 
 
 AKCIIORAGES. 
 
 Acherk Harbor, on the northwest end of Sannak Island, is said to be a good harbor 
 for all but northwest winds. It is small, however, and, being out of the way, would not 
 be generally used. The inner portion of the harbor is about i mile wide, and there is an 
 anchorage in about 4 fathoms in the middle, about ^ mile from the beach at the head. The 
 neck connecting Petrof Point, on the west side of tlie harbor, with the main part of the 
 island is low and covered at very high tides. There are several native houses in the south- 
 east part of the harbor, which ai'e visible from a considerable distance when not shut in by 
 the hill on Petrof Point. The best landing is on the beach near the village; there is a wharf 
 in the southeast corner of the liarbor. A rock on which the sea breaks lies about 200 yards 
 NW. by W. fr.mi the rock at tlie east point at the entrance to the harbor. 
 
 Ikatan Bay affords good protection in southerly winds (see page 15). 
 
 East Anchor Cove affords good anchorage and shelter from westerly and southerly 
 to southeast winds. There are detached locks off the east point at the entrance to the cove 
 close in to the shore. There are no dangers inside the cove ; the bottom shoals gradually to 
 the shores. 
 
 Approaching from the southward, round Cape Paiikof and give the land a berth of about 
 1 mile. After passing tlie high land at the end of the cajje the cove opens out, with low 
 land at its head. Enter the cove in mid-channel and anchor in about 5 fathoms. Approach- 
 ing from tlie northeastward, keep a sharp lookout for the breakers on a sunken rock about 
 NNE. i E., distant about 3 miles, from the cove. 
 
 There is good anchorage in the middle of West Anchor Cove, in 5 to 9 fathoms, and 
 the eastern point at the entrance bearing about S. There is a reef of rocks close-to off the 
 southeast point of the cove. 
 
 Lords Harbor, locally known as Dora Harbor, affords good anchorage with northerly 
 winds, but with heavy southwesterlj' winds considerable swell sets in. It is out of the way 
 and little used. Bird Island, high and cone-shaped, marks the entrance. From the Island 
 a kelp reef, having two rocks about 10 feet out of water, extends to the western point at 
 the entrance. The following are the directions given by Capt. M. A. Healy, U. S. R. C. S., 
 commanding the U. S. S. Corwiii, in 1885 : 
 
 "To enter, bring the west side of the entrance to the harbor to bear NW., and steer 
 for it on this bearing until Bird Island bears S. ; then steer N. for the middle of the entrance 
 and anchor in 4^ to 5 fathoms, with the west side of the entrance bearing SW. and the east 
 side SSE. A E." 
 
 An anchorage for small vessels exists under the northeast side of Cape Lazaref, but 
 no directions can be given. 
 
 Promontory Cove, close under the west side of the promontory, is indicated by Apple- 
 gate as an anchorage, with 7 to 9 fathoms water.
 
 BERING SEA AND ARCTIC OCEAX. 17 
 
 FOX ISLANDS 1» ASSES. 
 
 From the southward aud eastward, bound for Bering Sea, there are three passes used 
 by deep-draft vessels, known collectively as the Fox Islands Passes, and resjjectively as 
 Unimak, Akutan, aud Unalga passes. The largest and most desirable one to use in thick 
 and foggy weather is the eastern one, Unimak Pass. This is clear of hidden dangers, the 
 widest of the three, and is comparatively free from tide rips. It is especially recommended 
 for sailing vessels, and for steamers bound direct to the northward. Akutan and Unalga 
 passes are convenient for steam vessels bound to Unalaska Bay, but, being narrow and having 
 strong currents and tide rips at times, are not recommended for sailing vessels bound north. 
 A fair wind is almost necessarj' for the passage, and from the southward this would bring 
 fog. The pass between Ashmiak and Ugamok islands on the east and Sea Lion. Island on 
 the west is thought to be clear of dangers, but it is not recommended. All of the other minor 
 passes between Unimak and Akutan passes are known to be full of rocks and reefs, and 
 should not be attemjited under any circumstances. 
 
 The mountains in this vicinity would be excellent landmarks if they could be seen, but 
 in summer they are almost always obscured by fogs or low-lying clouds. The lower hills 
 and islands and objects near the sea level furnish the available landmarks. In coming from 
 the southward or eastward in clear weather, and if bound through Akutan or Unalga passes, 
 it is recommended to steer for Tigalda Lsland as the first land to be made. It is high and 
 prominent, and when once made a course can be shaped for any of the three passes. 
 
 SOUlsrDIXGS — To the southward of the passes the 100-fathom curve is found from 20 
 to 40 miles offshore, and when inside of this depth the color of the water will have changed 
 from dark blue to light green. This change in the color of the water is the best indication 
 the mariner has in thick weather to warn him of his approach to land and that he is on 
 soundings. Southwest of Unimak Pass the oO-fathom curve is from 3 to 5 miles offshore, 
 and in thick weather the greatest caution should be used in approaching inside of this 
 depth. Southeast of Unimak Pass the water shoals rapidly from 100 fathoms to Davidson 
 Bank, on which a least depth of 37 fathoms is marked 33 miles from Ugamok Island. 
 
 PROMINENT FEATURES. 
 
 Shishaldin Volcano, nearly 9,000 feet high, is cone-shaped and very regular in outline, 
 with faint wreaths of smoke and vapor at times drifting from its blackened tip. It is for 
 the most part snow-clad, except where the rocky cliffs and projections afford no lodgment. 
 
 Isanotski is seen close to the eastward of Shishaldin, very rugged, and having a broken 
 or castellated double peak. The summit is bare and looks as though composed of great 
 vertical rock masses. 
 
 Pogrumnoi Volcano, over 5,500 feet high, is a rugged, snow-clad peak, with dark 
 vertical ridges cropping through the snow. From a flat-topped dome, apparently as high 
 as Pogrumnoi, but seemingly not connected with it, there extends a long, high, snow-covered 
 table-land, dipping gx-adually toward Cape Khituk. Except the snow-covered portions, the 
 general color is green during July and August, from the grass-covered slopes. Pogrumnoi 
 is a guiding landmark in clear weather in making Unimak Puss. 
 
 Ugamok Island is rugged in outline, with bold rocky cliffs. It is highest at the 
 eastern end, where tliero is a sharp ccmical peak, which is very conspicuous, and may often 
 be seen wlien the summits of the higher islands in the vicinity are ob.scured by fog. The 
 northern and eastern sides of the island are free from dangers. 
 
 Tigalda Island is high and prominent, with distinctly rounded bills, re.sembling 
 knuckles. The SDutliorn shore of the island can be approached as close as 1 mile. The 
 northern and nortliwestern sides of the island are ioul and shovild not be approached. 
 
 Avatanak Island is highest at its eastern end, where it terminates in a bold cliff; 
 toward the western end, which is low, is a pile of very pr(Mniuent rocks, resembling a 
 
 17789 3
 
 18 BULLETIN KO. 40 SECOND EDITION. 
 
 ruined castle. The hills are not rounded like those of Tigalda, but are rugged and torn. 
 The southern shore is apparently safe. 
 
 Rootok Island, lying ^Yestward of Avatanak Island and separated from the latter Ity a 
 foul passage, is high, bold, and abrupt, and about 3 miles long in a general ENE. and WSW. 
 direction. The shores of this island are apparently free from outlying dangers. 
 
 Akutan Island is 3,333 feet high. The volcano is a rugged cone, -^-ith generally a 
 faint column of smoke issuing from its northeast side near the top. The north side of the 
 island is a fairly regular slope, breaking off at the coast in steep cliffs. The south side is 
 more irregular and the cliffs at the coast are higher and more rocky and broken. In sum- 
 mer the lower parts of the island are grass-covered. Cape Morgan, the southwest point, 
 is high and very bold and precipitous. A shelf of dark rock is at the base of the cliffs, 
 and a reef having three pinnacle rocks above water extends off the cape about i niile. 
 
 TJnalga Island is comparatively low, with a steep ragged shore line of cliffs sur- 
 rounded by detached pinnacle rocks. The top of the island is covered with grass and 
 shows up well against the dark hills beyond. There is a reef which extends about 200 
 yards off the northwest end of the island. 
 
 Gull Rocks lie off the northeast side of Uualga Island. The group consists of four 
 small islets, standing well out of the water and less than i mile from Unalga Island. 
 There are many detached rocks in the same group, but not extending beyond the islets into 
 Akutan Pass. 
 
 Egg Island, situated a .short distance northward from Biorka Island, is a landmark 
 for Unalga Pass. It is moderately high, rather ragged on top, dai-k in color, and has a 
 comparatively rounded outline. There is a good passage between the island and Cape 
 Biorka, with a depth of 35 fathoms. When the island bears about SW. by S., a small 
 island, detached from the main island, will open out on its southeastern end. A dark x'in- 
 nacle rock, showing jilainly, lies close to the north end of the island. The shores of the 
 island are free from dangei'S. 
 
 The Signals are two low, barren rocks, about 3 miles southward of Egg Island. The 
 channel between them and Biorka Island is clear, with a depth of 10 fathoms. A sunken 
 rock is just outside the Outer Signal. 
 
 Old Man is a small, square-topped rock, about GO feet high, lying about | mile north- 
 west from Egg Island. There is a low, round-topped rock close to the Old Man. Old Man 
 stands out well clear from Egg Island and, in thick weather, serves as an excellent mark 
 by which to recognize Egg Island. 
 
 DANGERS APPROACHING PROM THE SOUTHEASTWARD. 
 
 Anderson and Lenard Rocks. — The existence and position of these rocks are 
 doubtful; they are believed to be one and the same rock, though reported in different 
 localities. Commander Z. L. Tanner, of the XJ. S. S. Albatross, has searched for them 
 without success, but is convinced that some danger exists in that locality. 
 
 It is reported that there is a rock awash at low water in approximately latitude 54° 03' N., 
 longitude 162° 48' W., or with Sannak Peak bearing N. by W. f W., distant 27 miles. This 
 may be the Anderson Rock referred to above. 
 
 It is reported that foul ground exists between the above-mentioned rocks and Sannak 
 Island. 
 
 Aleks Rock, on which the sea breaks in a well-defined breaker, is about 20 feet across, 
 and lies with Sannak Peak bearing ap^jroximately NE., distant 19 miles. (See also Sannak 
 Island, page 15.) 
 
 TIDAL C'URRKXTS.— In the vicinity of the passes and in the passes the tidal cur- 
 rents are strong and their directions uncertain, and it is recommended that precautious be 
 taken in thick weather to avoid being carried unawares into dangerous localities. In navi- 
 gating in this vicinity it is necessary to make allowance for the current setting into or out
 
 PINNACLE ROCK, SCOTCH CAP, ENE. hi E. 
 
 CAPE MORGAN, WNW., DISTANT 8 MILES. 
 AKUTAN ISLAND.
 
 BERING SKA AND Altf'TIC OCEAN. 19 
 
 of the passes. The current sets southward during the falling tide and northward during the 
 rising tide, which is the longer and stronger of the two. Its velocity varies, but in Unalga 
 Pass, wliere it is greatest, it has been found to be Q^ knots an hour during the whole of the 
 tide, and the current turned to the opposite direction at the same velocity in twenty roinutes. 
 It is believed, however, that such a velocity of the current is very unusual in any of these 
 passes, and that at ordinary times the tidal current does not amount to more than three or 
 four knots. Until very recently the class of vessels navigating these watei'S has been low- 
 powered, with an a\'erage speed of from 6 to 9 knots, and, in an experience covering many 
 years, it is not recalled or known when these vessels have experienced serious trouble in 
 going through at any stage or condition of the tide when not influenced by strong winds. 
 
 On the Bering Sea side of Unalga and Akutan passes, with a strong northerly or 
 northwesterly wind, heavy tide rips are raised. These do not extend through the passes, 
 but seem to be confined to the Bering Sea side from about the middle of Unalga Island 
 almost to Cape Kalekhta. With the ebb tide, a southerly wind does not seem to raise 
 corresponding ri^js on the Pacific side. When the tide rips are heavy, the water is broken 
 into heavy, choppy seas from every direction, making it difficult to control the ship. In 
 H. M. S. Nymplic, in 1893, while passing through Unalga Pass, all hatchways on deck were 
 obliged to be closed, as the water broke on board in every direction with great force, and a 
 speed of 9 to 10 knots was necessary to control the vessel. Unimak Pass is comparatively 
 free from tide rips. 
 
 In ordinary weather it is high or low water in Akutan Pass between one and two hours 
 before high or low water at Dutch Harbdr. 
 
 THROUGH UNIMAK PASS TO CAPE KALEKHTA. 
 PROSUNENT FEATURES. 
 
 Cape Khituk, locally known as Seal Cape, is about 150 feet high, with a vertical 
 rocky face and grassy slopes on fither side. There is no island off the cape and no rock.s 
 were seen disconnected from the shore. 
 
 In the vicinity of Scotch Cap the bluffs are reddish gray, with a dark pinnacle rock at 
 the base of the bluffs. A short distance east of it is a large rock standing on the grassy 
 slope near the beach and having the appearance of a hut or barabara. Westward of Scotch 
 Cap a stream enters the sea, which from the westward shows a cascade but is not visible 
 from the soutliward. A breaker is reported as being about 3 miles northwestward of Scotch 
 Cap and alxtut \ mile from the shore. 
 
 Cape Saritchey is comparatively low and steep-to with detached I'ocks close inshore, 
 around wliicli strong tidal currents sweep. 
 
 Ugamok Island is described on page 17. 
 
 Akun Head, the northern end of Akun Island, is a high massive head with a nearly 
 vertical sea i'aci^; it has a high grass-covered (in summer) saddle to the southward. 
 
 North Head, of Akutan Island, consists of two high ridges, separated by a grassy 
 valley. The eastern one is the more abrupt and extends farther northwest, having on the 
 eastern side a bold bluff which seems to dip into a low valley. The bluff is of a warm 
 reddish color, wifh ilie stratification dipping slightly northwestward. 
 
 Flat Top Rock, on the northwest side of Akutan Island, from tlio eastward, is seen 
 detached from the point. It is the same height as the point and seems as if part (if the 
 point had Ijeeii detached and slipped a short distance seaward. 
 
 Cape Kalekhta, 500 feet high, is the turning point when bound from any of the passes 
 to Dutcli Harbor or Uiuliuk. It is a high, rocky promontory separating Unalaska Bay 
 from Kalekhta Bay. The extremity and western side of the cape are rugged, pi'ccipitous 
 cliffs, with a few rocks but no beach at the water line. Seen from a distance, its north
 
 20 BULLETIN NO. 40 — SECOND EDITION. 
 
 end is convex in outline, being steepest at the water and sloping more gently toward the 
 summit. From the summit of the cape, the laud falls to the break at Coustantine Bay, 
 and then rises to the higher land farther south. While the position of this break can be 
 distinguished, its full extent can be seen only when in Unah^ska Bay. From most 
 directions tlie end of the cape appears as a conical peak. N. ^ W. from Cape Kalekhta, 
 distant f mile, is the outer extremity of a dangerous ledge which is usually well marked by 
 breakers. The cape should be given a berth of li miles to clear the ledge, as the strong 
 tidal currents may tend to carry a vessel on it. 
 
 Priest Rock, close-to off the northwest side of Cape Kalekhta, is a pinnacle about 80 
 feet high. While classed as a conspicuous landmark, its usefulness to strangers is uncertain. 
 It can only be seen clear of the land when well through Akutan and Unalga passes and 
 when close to the north side of Akutan Island. It shows against the land from all other 
 directions and can not be made out except when close-to. There are similar rocks off several 
 other points in this vicinity, which in thick weather might easily be mistaken by strangers 
 for Priest Rock. 
 
 ANCHORAGES. 
 
 It is reported that a good anchorage exists under Cape Khituk in 7 to 10 fathoms, pro- 
 tected from winds from the westward of south, but no directions can be given. 
 
 With offshore winds an anchorage can be made close inshore in the bight between Cape 
 Saritchey and Cave Point. 
 
 Akun Cove is a convenient and safe anchorage except with winds from southeast to 
 northeast, but heavy williwaws are experienced. It is large and easy to approach. The 
 head of the cove is divided into two bights, in either of which a vessel can anchor about i 
 mile offshore in 7 to 10 fathoms. 
 
 Akutan Harbor gives protection from all winds, but the ■\\'illiwaws are violent. The 
 settlement is on the north shore, where there is a depot of the Alaska Commercial Company. 
 The northern side of the entrance to the harbor is a bold, black bluff" facing the southeast 
 point of the island. The harbor is about 3 miles in length and f to 1^ miles in width. The 
 water is deep (20 to 25 fathoms), and the shores are free from outlying rocks except at the 
 bluff at the north side of the entrance, which shoiild be given a berth of at least i mile. To 
 enter, round this bluff at a distance of j mile, and proceed up the harbor in mid-channel. 
 Anchor close to the shore abreast the village in 18 fathoms, soft bottom. 
 
 UNIMAK PASS. 
 
 General directions. — Unimak Pass is the widest of the Fox Islands Passes, being or 10 
 miles wide in its narrowest part. It is clear of hidden dangers, free from dangerous tide rips, 
 and the tidal current has less velocity than in the other passes. Except near shore, it is free 
 of williwaws. It is the most desirable pass for sailing vessels, and also for all vessels not 
 calling at Unalaska Bay. In apjiroaching from the southward and eastward, care must be 
 taken to keep clear of Sannak Reefs and Anderson and Leuard rocks. A good rule is to 
 make longitude 164° W. while still to the southward of latitude 54° N. and then stand to 
 the northward to make Cape Khituk. If very clear, the mountains of Unimak Island may 
 be made out and the course for Unimak Pass shaped accordingly; but imder prdiuarj' 
 conditions the hills back of Cape Khituk, or Ugamok Island, will be the first land sighted. 
 If the weather is thick, soundings on Davidson Bank will be of use in feeling the way in to 
 the land. In the vicinity of Cape Khituk the coast is bold and free from outlying dangers, 
 and may be approached near enoiigh to be seen and the i^osition obtained. A course may 
 then be shaped through the pass, even in the thickest weather, but vessels should first be 
 sure of their position and should not attempt any of the minor passes to the westward of 
 Ugamok Island even in clear weather. A reef of rocks was formerly shown on the chart 
 extending between 1 and 2 miles from the east end of Ugamok Island.
 
 KALEKHTA HEAD, W. 'u S. 5 MILES. PRIEST ROCK. 
 UNALASKA ISLAND. 
 
 PRIEST ROCK, KALEKHTA HEAD, NE. BY E., DISTANT 3 MILES.
 
 BEIUXG SEA AM> AlUTIC OCKAN. 21 
 
 AKUTAN PASS. 
 
 General directions. — Akiitan Pciss is about 3 miles wide in its narrowest part. There 
 are four small islets (Gull Rocks) ou the western side of the pass, less than ^ mile from 
 Unalga Island, with many detached rocks above water in the same group, but not extending 
 bej'ond the islets into the pass. There is a reef •« ith some pinnacle rocks on it extending 
 from Cai:)e Morgan not more than i mile into the pass. With these exceptions there are no 
 known dangers. The current and tide rijis are not so strong as in Unalga Pass. On this 
 account, and because of its greater width and the fact that a straight course will carry 
 through, this pass is preferred by many to Unalga Pass. 
 
 Akutan Pass is recommended for steamers bound to oi- from Unalaska Bay, and for 
 sailing vessels from Unalaska Bay, having a fair wind. From the southward it is I'ecom- 
 mended to make the laud in the vicinity of Tigalda Island and Avatanak Island and follow 
 along the south side of these islands until the course is shaped from Rootok Island to Cape 
 Morgan. A mid-channel course through the pass is recommended as the most prudent one. 
 From Cape Morgan a W. by S. course, making allowance for the current, will carry clear 
 of the ledge off Cape Kalekhta. From Unalaska Bay, after clearing Cape Kalekhta, Akutan 
 Pass is open and an E. by N. course can be steered through. 
 
 UNALGA PASS. 
 
 Unalga Pass is the small jjass between Unalga and Unalaska islands. It is the narrowest 
 and shortest of the three passes, and is more generally used by steamers bound to and from 
 Unalaska Bay than either of the other two. It is aboiit one mile wide in its narrowest part, 
 and, with the exception of rocks above water which make out a short distance from the 
 points of Unalaska Island, the pass is considered free from dangers. In the middle of the 
 pass there are depths of 25 to 35 fathoms, with deeper water northwestward and south- 
 eastward. Its worst features are the strong tidal currents and tide rips, both of which are 
 generally considered worse in this pass than in either of the other two; williwaws of great 
 force are also experienced in this pass. The advantage of using this pass in thick weather 
 is that the shore of Unalga Island is clear of dangers, and when made can be followed close 
 enough to keep it in sight while going through. (See Unalga Island, page 18. ) 
 
 The Signals, Egg Island, and Old Man are the prominent landmarks for uuiking Unalga 
 
 Pass from the southeastward. 
 
 ANCHORAGES. 
 
 Beaver Inlet, lietween Biorka and Unalaska islands, is a deep inlet on the western 
 side of the southern entrance to Unalga Pass. There are several bays leading out of Beaver 
 Inlet. The best anchorage is said to be in Food Bay, on the north side of the inlet, near its 
 enti-ance. The anchorage near the shore off the village of Biorka, on the south side of the 
 inlet, is poor on account of the deep water; it affords shelter in soiltherly weather. 
 
 English Bay, southwest of Unalga Island, is a good harbor. The water is deep, and 
 there are no dangers except on both sides of the entrance, near the shore. Tlu^ anchorage 
 is at the head of the bay, in about 10 fathoms. 
 
 Kalekhta Bay, eastward of Cape Kalekhta, is clear of dangers except along sliore. 
 Anchorage should not be made in less than 10 fathoms. The bay is much smaller in every 
 way than Unalaska Bay, but it is marked by a cascade on its western side not unlike tlu; 
 one recommended as a landmark for Unalaska Bay. Tliere is also a pinnacle rock oil 
 Er.skine Point, the eastern point at the entrance, somewliat similar to Priest Rock; hut (his 
 rock is distinguisluHl by a smaller one between it and Erskine Point. 
 
 GENERAL DIRECTIONS, UNALGA PASS. 
 
 From tlie southeastward it is recommended to make the land in tlie vicinity of Tigalda 
 Island and, after fixing the position, slui.pe a course for Egg Island. If the weather is clear 
 and Unalga Island is made out, the course cau be shaped for the entrance to the pass ; but
 
 22 BULLETIN NO. 40 — SECOND EDITION. 
 
 if thick, it will be necessary to approach Egg Island close enough to be sure of the position 
 before hauling in for the pass. (See description of the islands on pages 17-18.) It is the gen- 
 eral practice to favor the Unalga Island side in going through, because the current seems 
 less strong there tind there are no rocks except along the beach. A sfraight course ivill not 
 carry through the pass as indicated on the chart. When clear of Unalga Island, shape the 
 course to clear Cape Kalekhta 1^ miles, to avoid the ledge off the cape. 
 
 From the southward vessels may pass inside The Signals and Egg Island. The Outer 
 Signals should not be approached too closely, as a sunken rock is reported in its vicinity. 
 
 UNALASKA BAY. 
 
 Unalaska Bay is the general name of the indentation making in to the north end of 
 Unalaska Island between Cape Kalekhta and Cape Cheerful. Commercially it is the most 
 important bay in western Alaska. Its shores are generally mountainous with precipitous 
 sea faces. Amaknak Island lies in its southern end. Westward of the island the water 
 is deeji, but there is no good harbor in this i)art of the bay ; eastward of the island are the 
 important anchorages of Iliuliuk Bay, Dutch Harbor, and Iliuliuk Hai-bor. The channel 
 to Iliuliiik Bay and Dutch Harbor is free from dangers except along the shores. Iliiiliuk 
 Harbor is obstructed at its entrance by ledges. 
 
 Cape Kalekhta and Priest Rock. (See pages 19-20.) 
 
 Cape Cheerful, the western point at the entrance to Unalaska Bay, is made up of bold, 
 very high headlands, rounded on top, and intersected by deep, grassy valleys. The shore 
 is free from dangers and has deep water close-to. A cascade, 125 feet high, south of Cape 
 Cheerful, is a conspicuous mark from the vicinity of Cape Kalekhta, and is useful in thick 
 weather when only the lower part of the land can be seen. 
 
 TJlakhta Head, 900 feet high, the north end of Amaknak Island, is, in clear weather, 
 one of the best landmarks for fixing the position of Unalaska Bay. In appearance it is 
 like a pyramid with the top cut off. The top shows perfectly fiat, and there is no other 
 headland or mountain in this vicinity that has this feature. It is not as high as the back- 
 ground, but shows up well against it, aiui can be made out at a long distance from the bay. 
 From its northwest point a reef extends off ^ mile, marked by Needle Rock, similar in 
 api^earance to Priest Rock, but not so large. From its northeast point a long, narrow sand 
 spit extends to the southward 1^ miles ; its southern end, called Spithead, is marked by a 
 beacon, about 1.5 feet high, standing close to its southern shore. 
 
 Princess Head, 2 miles from Cape Kalekhta, is a large square-headed rock that 
 projects from the- shore far enough to be distinctly observed, even in thick weather, in 
 following along the east shore. 
 
 Constantine Bay, about 1 miles from Cape Kalekhta, is obstructed by numerous rocky 
 ledges, many of which are only evident from the attached kelp. It is of no importance and 
 should be avoided by all vessels. 
 
 Summer Bay, the large, shallow bight, 3 miles from Constantine Bay and opj^osite 
 Ulakhta Head, is shoal, and its shores are lined with kelp-marked rocks and ledges. At its 
 southern headland is Pinnacle Rock, about 60 feet high. This bay is an excellent place to 
 seine for salmon. The bay should be avoided by vessels. 
 
 Iliuliuk Bay extends from Pinnacle Rock and Ulakhta Head to Iliuliuk. To the 
 northward of Spithead there is a ridge extending across the bay, having a least dejith of 10 
 fathoms. South of this ridge the depths increase to 16 and 19 fathoms. There is anchorage 
 anywhere in the bay. The usual anchorage is at the head in 14 to 16 fathoms, muddy 
 bottom, where, even with northerly winds, the force of the sea does not seem to reach 
 home. At the head of Iliuliuk Bay, behind the village, there is a distinct ravine or break 
 in the mountains, which extends through to the water to the southward. This is a iiseful 
 guide for entering the bay and inner harbor.
 
 BERING SEA AND ARCTIC OCEAN. 23 
 
 DUTCH HARBOR is ou the west side of Iliuliuk Bay. Its entrance is between Spit- 
 head and Rocky Point. The water is deep close to the shores, and in all parts of the harbor, 
 except off Rockj- Point, where there is a reef making off a little less than ^ mile, marked at 
 its end by a buoy. The entrance between Spithead and the end of the reef off Rocky Point 
 is about i mile wide, with a depth of 18 fathoms. Anchorage may be had throughout the 
 harbor in from 14 to 19 fathoms. Violent williwaAvs are experienced, with strong winds. 
 
 The headquarters of the North American Commercial Comiiany for this part of Alaska 
 are situated on the south side of Dutch Harbor. In front of their warehouses and coal 
 depot an L-shaped wharf extends out to deep water. Large ships can lie at the outer end, 
 which is about 200 feet long, and there is ample room for small vessels on the inside of the L. 
 The post office of Udakta is now established at Dutch Harbor. 
 
 Supplies. — There is a stock of several thousand tons of coal carried by the company, 
 whicli can be obtained, delivered on the wharf, at from $10 to $13 per ton, at the rate of 
 from ] 50 to 250 tons per day. Fresh water can be obtained from a hydrant on the wharf at 
 ^ cent per gallon. 
 
 The company's store carries a supply of ship chandlery and outfits, and is well stocked 
 with canned goods and salt provisions. Fresh meats and provisions can be obtained at 
 times. 
 
 There is a small machine shop and blacksmith shop, where light work can be done by 
 the vessel. 
 
 IIjIULIUK harbor is joined to the head of Iliuliuk Bay l)y the jaassage between 
 Iliuliuk Reef and the village of Iliuliuk (Unalaska). 
 
 Channels. — The channel generally used is the one to the southward of Iliuliuk Reef, on 
 either side of Tuscarora Rock, and has a least depth of about 5 fathoms. There is a chan- 
 nel north of Iliuliuk Reef, between it and North Rock, which has a least depth of 3^ fathoms, 
 but should not be attempted except with local knowledge. 
 
 Anchorage. — Iliuliuk Harbor is small, perfectly landlocked, with good holding ground, 
 and an average depth of 10 fathoms. The headquarters of the Alaska Commercial Com- 
 pany are at Iliuliuk, and the company has a wharf projecting into the harbor from the 
 western end of the spit on which the village is located. 
 
 Iliuliuk is the original Russian settlement. There is a Greek church here with a paro- 
 chial school, also a Methodist mission school. The post office. United States deputy col- 
 lector, and United States commissioner for this general locality are located here. The post 
 office is called Ounalaska. 
 
 Supplies, etc. — The Alaska Commercial Company luis a well-stocked general store and 
 very commodious warehouses for its own iise at Iliuliuk. There is a limited amount of 
 coal kept on hand which is usually not for sale; a coaling station is contemplated at this 
 point. Fresh water can be obtained at the wharf, and boats can water on Amaknak Island, 
 o])p()site the wharf. 
 
 Tides.— See tide table, jiages 10-11. 
 
 The tidal current in Dutch Harbor is inappreciable, and in Iliuliuk Harbor does not 
 exceed one knot. 
 
 Ice. — The bay is open to navigation at all seasons. It is reported that on two occasions 
 the drift ice of Bering Sea entered Unalaska Bay, but such occurrences are very rare and 
 need not be considered. Ice often forms in the sheltered coves and harbors in cold, calm 
 weather, but it never attains any thickness or interferes with navigation. 
 
 SAIIiING DIRECTIONS, UNALASKA BAT. 
 
 General directions for approaching and entering.— When bound for Unalaska 
 Bay from any part of Bering Sea, it is recommended to shape the course for Cape Cheerful. 
 In thick weather it is bettor to fall to the westward of Cape Cheerful and then round it than 
 to fall to the eastward of it and get down among the passes. Makushin Volcano, 5,474 feet 
 high, can generally be seen in (dear weather, and is very prominent. An extinct crater,
 
 24 BULLETIN XO. 40 — SECOND EDITION. 
 
 '2,314 feet high, ]>ack of Capo Clieerful and west of Eider Point, gives a distinct point for 
 which to steer until close enough to distinguish the surrounding features. On getting close 
 to the island, when the fog hangs over the laud but leaves a clear space just along the water's 
 edge, Wislow Island forms a good landmark. It is a very small, rounded island, regular in 
 shape, and stands off far enough from the land to be distinctly seen as not a part of the main 
 island. To the westward, under similar conditions, Makushin Cape can be seen at times. 
 The land slopes gently to the cape from Makushin Volcano, and ends in a small, peak-like 
 formation at the end of the cape. From the eastward the cascade south of Cape Cheerful is 
 also useful. Strangers, when in the vicinity and uncertain of the identity of the bay and its 
 landmarks, sliould endeavor to pick out Ulakhta Head. Looking into the bay, its flat top 
 breaking off abruptly to sloping sides presents an appearauce unlike any other in the vicinity, 
 and shows tip well against the background of mountains. When sighted, steer for it, leave 
 it on the stai-board luind, and follow around, keeping out of kelp. 
 
 Cape Kalekhta to anchorage.— Having arrived in the vicinity of Cape Kalekhta, 
 bring it to bear ESE., distant 1^ miles, and steer S. i W. This course made good for about 
 7 miles leads to a position in line between Pinnacle Rock and Ulakhta Head, slightly nearer 
 the former. Then change course to SSW. i W., heading for the ravine back of the village 
 at the head of Iliuliuk Bay, and anchor near the liead of the bay, in 14 to IG fathoms. 
 
 If desiring io eider Dutch Harbor, on the SSW. ^ W. course, when Spithead bears 
 abeam, change course to WSW. ^ W., aud anchor in the harbor as desired. 
 
 If desiring to enter IliHlink Harbor, continue tlie SSW. ^ W. course until the buoy or 
 kelp marking Tuscarora Rock is sighted. Then haul to the westward and j^ass the rock 
 close-to on either side, keeping out of the kelp. Botli Tuscarora Rock and Iliuliuk Reef 
 are well marked by kelp, which serves as a guide if the buoys are not in place. When 
 clear of the kelp on Tuscarora Rock haul to the northward to pass in mid-channel between 
 the western di-y rocks of Iliuliuk Reef and the shore to the southward; then steer to enter 
 the. harbor in mid-channel. Anchor in the middle of the harbor in 10 fathoms. Or in 
 entering the harbor the north side may be favored, if desired, to allow room for turning to 
 go to the wharf. 
 
 Remarks. — On the S. V W. course the shore to the northward of Constautine Bay is 
 passeil at a least distance of | luile. In thick weather, when following along the east shore, 
 care must be taken not to enter Constautine or Summer bay by mistake. This has some- 
 times occurred when tlie opjjosite headland could not be made out. In passing to the 
 southward of Tuscarora Rock, vessels are obliged to make a very sharp turn to the west- 
 ward, and care must be taken to keep off the beach. 
 
 DANGERS. — Navigators should avoid the kelp, which invariably indicates a rocky 
 bottom. 
 
 A large cluster of rocks, mostly awash, and usually marked by breakers, extends nearly 
 200 yards to the westward of the south head of Constautine Bay. 
 
 Pinnacle Rock is surrounded by reefs, awasli aiid under water, for a distance of 300 
 yards. Between Pinnacle Rock and a point opposite the entrance to Dutch Harbor the east 
 shore is lined with rocks, and should not be approached closer than ^ mile. 
 
 The spit has a kelp-marked shoal on its east .side which extends its whole length; at its 
 middle point the shoal extends i mile from shore. Spithead is bold-to, and may be safely 
 approached as close as 150 yards. There is a beacon, about 15 feet higli, standing close 
 to its southern shore. 
 
 Rocky Point has a kelp-marked reef which extends toward Spithead about 350 yards ; 
 eastward of the point shoal water makes out about 200 yards with little kelp. The 
 northern extremity of the reef is marked by a buoy painted white. 
 
 From Rocky Point south, the shore of Amaknak Island should uot be approached 
 closer than 300 yards. 
 
 Iliuliuk Reef consists of a ledge of rocks, portions of which are always exposed, 
 extending in an east and west direction for 250 yards. From the eastern dry rock a
 
 BERING SEA AND ARCTIC OCEAN. 25 
 
 2i-fatliom ledge, marked by kelp, extends S. by E. J E. 150 yards. The southern extremity 
 of this ledge is sometimes marked by a buoy. 
 
 Tuscarora Rock is a oi-fathom spot, marked by kelp, which lies about 50 yards 
 SSE. J E. from the southern extremity of Iliuliuk Reef. It is small and generally marked 
 by an iron bai-rel buoy. These buoj's are maintained by the Alaska Commercial Company, 
 and may be followed if in place. 
 
 BRISTOL BAY.* 
 
 Bristol Bay may be said to include all that part of Bering Sea lying east of a line drawn 
 from Cajje Saritehey (Northwest Cape), Uuimak Island, to the Kuskokwim River. Unimak 
 Island and the Alaska Peninsula bound it on the south and east, and separate it from the 
 Pacific Ocean. The Naknek River is at the head of deep-water navigation, while the bay 
 itself terminates in the Kvichak River, a few miles northward. The region about the 
 Nushagak River, Kululak Bay, and the Kuskokwim forms its northwest boundary. 
 
 The shore lines are usually low and without distinctive features, but high mountain 
 ranges and volcanic cones extend along the central parts of Uuimak Island and the Alaska 
 Peninsula. These rugged snow-covered mountains and lofty peaks would serve as unmis- 
 takable landmarks were thej' not obscured by the almost constant fogs which prevail in that 
 region during the summer months. In fact, they were so seldom visible during the season 
 of 1890 that the officers of the Albatross made no pretense of using them as landmarks. 
 The shore line and objects near the sea level were often seen beneath the fog when the 
 higher lands were obscured, and, therefore, most of the available landmarks were found on 
 or near the beach. 
 
 THE COAST FROM tTNIMAK PASS TO PORT MOLLER. 
 
 Cape Saritehey (Northwest Cape), Unimak Island, is low with detached rocks, 
 around which strong tidal currents sweep. The land falls away eastward in a gentle curve, 
 forming an open bay about 4 miles in depth between the cape and Cave Point, which lies 
 NNE. \ E., IG miles from the former. Cave Point is a vertical rocky cliff, about 150 feet 
 in height, and takes its name from a cave on its face, inhabited by sea birds, which in 
 summer time hover about it in thousands, making it conspicuous in clear weather by their 
 numbers, and in fogs by their constant cries. The snow-clad peak of Pogrumnoi Volcano, 
 rising to an altitude of 5,523 feet above the sea, forms a striking background to the low, 
 monotonous coast. 
 
 Passing Cape Lapin, a low bluff point about 8 miles from Cave Point, tlio coast falls 
 away slightly for miles, when it turns abruptly to the eastward for 5 miles, and then 
 takes a northerly direction, forming Shaw Bay. This bay is open to the northward, but 
 affords protection from all winds from the southward of east or west. The approaches are 
 clear, and the water shoals gradually to 6 fathoms, black sand, about J mile from shore. 
 
 From Shaw Bay to Isanotski Strait the coast trends in a northeasteidy direction, is very 
 low and has several rocky patches extending from i to 1 mile from shore, making naviga- 
 tion unsafe inside the 12-fathom line. The volcano of Shishaldin rises 8,953 feet about 
 midway between the above points and 7 or 8 miles inland. Isanotski Strait is available 
 only for vessels of the smallest class. 
 
 From tlie strait to Cape Glasenap, about 19 miles, the coast line retains the same 
 general direction and is very low until reaching the latter point, which is oval in form, 
 about 150 feet in height, and has been called Round Point. 
 
 Izenbek Bay covers a large area at high tide, but mucli of it becomes dry at low 
 water. A small vessel may, however, find a secure harbor behind the cape. The channel 
 follows close around the point, and has a depth of 10 to 12 feet on the bar. 
 
 * From a reconnoisance by Llout. Commander Z. L. Tanner, U. S. N., commanding U. S. 8. AtbalroWj iu 1890.
 
 20 BULLETIN NO. 40 SECOND EDITION. 
 
 Ainak Island is of volcanic origin, about 2^ miles in length, 14- miles in width, and 
 1,GS2 feet in height. It lies 11 miles northwest from Cape Glasenap. The beaches are 
 mostly of huge water-worn bowlders, having vertical bluffs from 30 to 150 feet in height, 
 with moss-covered plateaus, which in summer time are covered with a rank growth of grass 
 and wild flowers. The central peak is of dark-brown rock, exceedingly rugged and precip- 
 itous, and entirely devoid of vegetation. The southeast point was found to be in latitude 
 55° 25' 05.6" N. and longitude 163° 07' 33.6" W. There is foul ground off the northwest 
 extremity of the i.sland, several rocks awash or under water, and Sea Lion Rock lying 
 between 2 and 3 miles distant. The latter is several hundred yards in extent and about 150 
 feet high, its slopes being occupied by an extensive rookery of sea lions. 
 
 The Khudiakof Islands extend about 19 miles NNE. ,V E., between Cape Glasenap 
 and Neumann (Moffett) Point. They are but little above high water, and some of them 
 are connected by narrow spits when the tide is out. 
 
 From Neumann (Moffett) Point the low coast trends north by east 15 miles to Gerstle 
 Bay, then to the northward and eastward about 55 miles to Wolf Point, on the western 
 side of the entrance to Port Moller. 
 
 The Khudubin Islands occupy the last 23 miles of this distance. They are very low, 
 and it is difficult to distinguish them from the mainland, the only distinctive feature being 
 a knob about 25 feet high on the east end of Kritskoi. The land between Herendeen Bay 
 and Nelson Lagoon is very low. 
 
 POKT MOLLER, HERESTDEEST BAY, AND VICINITY. 
 
 Port Moller and Herendeen Bay had no commercial importance until the recent opening 
 of a coal mine* in the latter, which has drawn attention to this almost unknown region. 
 The Albatross visited the mine twice during the season of 1890, and made a survey which 
 was found to be sufficiently accurate for purposes of navigation. The chart should be used 
 with caution, however, until it is ascertained whether the extensive banks guarding the 
 entrance are permanent or shifting. 
 
 To enter Fort 3Ioller from the soufhirard, pass Walrus Island in from 10 to 12 fathoms, 
 and bring Entrance Point, the eastern point of entrance to Poi-t Moller, to bear ESE. It 
 will then be about 8 miles distant, and have the appearance of being the southern extremity 
 of a high and bold headland, the first that approaches the coast between that point and Cape 
 Glasenap. Stand in, keeping the point on the above bearing until within 2 or 3 miles, when 
 it will show as a low spit backed by a cluster of hillocks, the high land before referred to 
 being seen farther inland. Pass Entrance Point at a distance of 1 mile, steering about 
 SSE. 1 E., and stand for Harbor Point, 4^ mile.s S. by E. from Entrance Point, passing it 
 within :^ of a mile, where anchorage may be foimd. Tlio point is low. 
 
 A shoal makes off from Entrance Point about NW. by N. between 3 and 4 miles, and 
 vessels making for the hnvhor from the northirard are liable to run in behind it. Entrance 
 Point should not be brought to bear to the southward of .southeast after having approached 
 within 4 miles of it. 
 
 7'o e7iier Herendeen Bay, Ijriiig Entrance Point to bear NE. \ E., 1 mile distant, and 
 Point Divide SSW. ;; W., 8f miles distant; then steer for the latter, keeping it on that 
 bearing until within 2^- miles, when the course may be changed to about SW. J S., passing 
 in mid-channel between Point Divide and Doe Point, the southeast point of Deer Island. 
 The least water is 4 fathoms at the entrance to the channel. 
 
 Having cleared Hague Channel, bring Coal Bluff, 5 miles SSE. from Point Divide, to 
 bear SE. | S., and stand for it until Point Divide bears N. by W. ^ W., 1.V miles distant 
 and about 400 yards open of Doe Point; then steer SSE. f E., until Eagle Rock, 1 
 mile NNW. from Coal Bluff, is abeam, keeping the above points a little open to clear 
 Half Tide Rock, which lies NW. by W. i W^, ^ mile from Eagle Rock. Then steer 
 
 * Since abandoned.
 
 BERING SEA AM) ARCTIC OCEAN. 27 
 
 S. by E. i E. until Shiugle Point, 2 miles SSE. from Coiil Bluff, is abeam, wlieu a course 
 may be laid for Mine Harbor, giving Bluff Point a berth of i mile. 
 
 Mine Harbor is small but free from dangers, except Midway Eeef, wliich shows at 
 half tide. Anchor in from 12 to 15 fathoms, and if a vessel intends to remain any time it 
 is advisable to moor. 
 
 Tides. — It is high water in Mine Harbor, full and change, at 8h. Om., rise 15 feet, and 
 it occurs at Entrance Point about 2 hours earlier, with a rise of 10 to 12 feet. 
 
 Hague Channel is 1 mile in width at its northern entrance, and is contracted to less 
 than i mile between Point Divide and Doe Point. The tidal streams are very strong, and 
 near high water they sweej) across the narrow channel and over the flats, making it impos- 
 sible to steer a compass course. They are more regular near low tide, which is the best 
 time to make the passage, as the channel is indicated by the flats showing above water on 
 either hand. 
 
 Johnston Channel, Hereudeen Bay, has from 7 to 15 fathoms of water, but is very 
 narrow with steep sides. It is difficult to find, but once in, the navigation is comparatively 
 simple, as the tidal currents follow the general direction of deep water. The width of the 
 channel at the northern entrance, i mile south of Point Divide, is ^ mile, with little varia- 
 tion until near the southern extremity, where it contracts to 250 yards. Having cleared 
 the channel and entered the upjjer bay, there is ample room and depth of water in every 
 direction, Crow Reef, off the south point of Mine Harbor, being the onlj" outlying danger. 
 
 Anchorages may be found anywhere between Walrus Island and Entrance Point in 
 case of fog, and a vessel may anchor in Hague Channel, but the tidal currents are strong. 
 There are fairlj^ good anchorages under the north side of Point Divide and Doe Point, where, 
 near the bank, a vessel will be out of the strength of the current. The Albatross anchored 
 in mid-channel, 1 mile inside of the above points, at the time of spring tides, and the flood 
 came in with a bore between 2 and 3 feet in height, the patent log registering a 9- knot cur- 
 rent for some time, with a swell which occasionally splashed into the scuppers. There is a 
 fair anchorage off the northern eiitrance to Johnston Channel, and an excellent one at its 
 southern extremity, off Marble Point, just north of Shingle Point, or, in fact, almost any- 
 where in the upper bay. The last quarter of the flood tide is the best time to pass through 
 this channel. 
 
 High land rises at the base of Harbor Point, and extends to the northward and eastward 
 near the center of the peninsula. Point Divide is 50 feet in height, and mountain ranges 
 rise a few miles back. The coal measures are found between Mine Harbor and the head of 
 Port Moller. Doe Point is 40 feet in height, while the rest of Deer Island and the mainland 
 south and west of it is generally lower. The southern shores of Hereudeen Bay are moun- 
 tainous, with intervening valleys, the whole face of the country being covered with rank 
 grass and wild flowers during the summer months; but there is no timber, except occasional 
 sniall poplars, alder bushes, and willows. Fresh winds, with fog and mist, blow across the 
 low divides from the Pacific, obscuring the sun and greatly increasing the rainfall in Port 
 Moller and vicinity. 
 
 The region is uninhabited, except by men employed at the coal mine; bear and reindeer 
 were plentiful, and the waters teemed with salmon. There are no large fresh-water streams 
 entering the bay, however, which probably accounts for the absence of Eskimos. The coal 
 mine* in Hereudeen Bay lies 1^ miles from the landing in Mine Harbor. 
 
 THE COAST FROM PORT JIOLiIjER TO THE KUSKOKWIM ROTSR. 
 
 The coast is low for 19 miles between Entrance Point and Cape Kutuzof, which rises 
 in a rounded bluff to an elevation of 150 feet. 
 
 Cape Seniavine, 11 miles to the northward and eastward, is a rocky point 75 feet high. 
 Passing it, the low monotonous beach continues to the Seal Islands, the only exccjition 
 being a cluster of small hillocks near the beach, 12 miles from Cape Seniavine. 
 
 * Now abandoned.
 
 28 BULLETIN NO. 40 — SECOND EDITION. 
 
 The Seal Islands are composed of several small islets, but little above high water, 
 strung along near the coast for about 10 miles; thouce to Strogonof Poiut the land con. 
 tinues very low. 
 
 Port Haiden is said to be a good harbor, but we did not examine it. Should a survey 
 show it to be safe and easy of approach, it will prove a great convenience to vessels 
 employed on the northern part of Baird Bank. The approach to Port Haiden will be 
 recognized by high, bold headlands, which rise from its northern shore. 
 
 Chestakof Island, low and crescent-shaped, forms the seaward side of the harbor, 
 the channel l)ing between its northern extremity and a reef which makes out from the 
 laud. The same low coast extends to Cape Mencliikof in nearly a direct line, the highland 
 of Port Haiden gradually receding from the coast. 
 
 The Ugashik River lies northward of Cape Mencliikof, and has been reported navi- 
 gable for several miles by vessels of 14 feet draft. The schooner Pearl enters the river, but 
 her captain reports a wide bar having intricate channels, strong currents, and usually a 
 heavy swell. Ten feet is about all that can be carried in with safety. Once inside, it is 
 reported to be a good harbor, but it can hardly be considered available for the ordinary 
 purposes of fishing vessels. Mr. Hale, superintendent of canneries, reports that a draft of 
 16 to 18 feet can be taken over the bar into Ugashik Eiver. 
 
 Cape Greig, a bluff 243 feet in height, and a peculiar notched mountain some distance 
 inland, are good landmarks for the river. The h^w coast continues from the cape to the 
 Ugaguk River, and thence to the Naknek River, with hardly a distinguishing feature, 
 except Johnstons Hill, a solitary elevation, 5 miles from the beach and about 9 miles 
 S. i E. from the mouth of the Naknek. The coast sweeps in a graceful curve to the noith- 
 ward between Cape Greig and the Ugaguk, and thence to the eastward to the Naknek 
 River. A gravel bank lines the coast in several places, behind which a narrow strijj of 
 water is seen, particularly at or near high tide. 
 
 The Naknek River may be considered as the head of deep-water navigation in Bristol 
 Bay. The Albafross found anchorage in 6 fathoms about 6 miles SW. from Cape Suworof, 
 the water shoaling rapidly to 3 fathoms toward the head of the bay. Vessels of moderate 
 draft can pass the bar at high water, but there is hardly depth enough to float a ship's boat 
 when the tide is out. It is deeper inside, however, and a small vessel may find anchorage 
 with swinging room. There is a fishing station on the river, which is visited periodically 
 by a small steam tender. The South Head is in latitude 58° 42' 04.3" N. and longitude 
 157° 02' 45.4" W. ; high water, full and change, Ih. 5m. ; rise, 23 feet. Shoal ground makes 
 off from the west shore, confining the channel in one place to about 3 miles in width. It 
 may possibly be a middle ground, with a channel on either side, but the conditions off 
 Etolin Point seem to disprove this. 
 
 NUSHAGAK KILTER. 
 
 The Nushagak River is assuming considerable importance as the location of a trading 
 station and of a number of large well-equipped salmon-canning estal)lishmonts. Protection 
 Poiut, the entrance to the river, is 50 miles SW. liy W. from the Naknek River, and, owing to 
 swift currents and extensive shoals, it may be classed among the most intricate pieces of 
 navigation in Bristol Bay. A G-knot current is frequently encountered, hence the shifting 
 of banks and shoals must be expected, and the necessity for the constant use of the hand 
 lead becomes too obvious to require remark; indeed the warning from a lead on each side will 
 leave but a small margin of safety at times. The land on both sides of the entrance is very 
 low, and it is difficult to recognize Etolin Point even under favorable conditions. A vessel 
 from the westward would make the Walrus Group and follow the coast to Cajjc Constantine, 
 and. having cleared the outlying shoals, stand in for Protection Point, whicli is difficult of 
 recognition from a distance. 
 
 Nichols Hills, 2S0 feet in height, are a cluster of rounded elevations 5 miles northwest 
 of Protection Poiut, and are the first natural objects distinguishable on the peninsula.
 
 BEEING SEA AND ARCTIC OCEAN. 29 
 
 Bring tliem to bear WN W. and staad in, keeping them on tliat bearing until Protection 
 Point bears about soutli, and ancbor, making due allowance for falling tide. 
 
 There is a pilot station on the point, with a small flagstaff, on which a flag will be 
 hoisted if the pilot is at home. He is an E;~kimo, and sj^eaks very little English, but he 
 knows the channel. If he is not at the point when the vessel arrives, he will probably be 
 at Ekuk, and maj^ be expected on board within a few hours if the weather is not too rough 
 for his kayak. A stranger should not attempt to enter without a pilot, unless from necessity. 
 
 Clarks Point is 18 miles N. by W. from Protection Point, the usual anchorage being 
 from i mile to 1 mile above it. 
 
 Ekuk, an Eskimo village, is on the bluft' nearly 3 miles below Clarks Point. 
 
 Clarks Point is a bluff 200 feet in height, beginning below Ekuk and extending 2 or 3 
 miles up the river, and thence to Nushagak. It varies from 100 to 150 feet in height. The 
 west side is generally lower, but from Coffee Point, 4 miles NW. from Clarks Point, to the 
 northward the bluffs rise from 50 to 200 feet. 
 
 Clarks Point (foot of bluff), is in latitude 58° 49' 14" N. and longitude 158° 31' 43.9" W. 
 High water, full and change, Oh. 53m., approximate; rise, 24 feet. 
 
 The reconnoissance of the Lower Nushagak was made di;ring the few days we were 
 detained in the river. The principal points are located by triangulation ; Clai'ks Point by 
 astronomical observations, and the reduction of soundings to low water depends upon the 
 tides during our stay. It is to be regretted that we were unable to extend the soundings to 
 the west shore. 
 
 The Nushagak Packing Company have a cannery at Clarks Point, and there are three 
 others, besides a trading station, in the river, the latter at Nushagak, formerly called Fort 
 Alexander. Vessels of moderate draft can reach the canneries, and with a little care find 
 anchorage with sufficient water even during the lowest tides. The timber line is well 
 defined about 3 miles below the mouth of Wood River, and extends to the westward as far 
 as the eye can reach. The weather was pleasant during our stay, and from all reports they 
 have less fog in the Nushagak than in any other part of Bering Sea. 
 
 Mr. Hale, superintendent of canneries, states that vessels of 21 feet draft enter the 
 Nushagak River to Clarks Point; that the channel between Cape Constantine and Point 
 Etoliu, though tortuous and requiring a good pilot, affords plenty of water; and that sailing- 
 vessels require a tug in entering and leaving. The rise and fall of the tides in the river is 
 28 feet, leaving sufficient water in the channel, at mean low water, for deep draft vessels. 
 
 Cape Constantine, the soiitheast extremity of land at the entrance to the Nushagak, 
 is very low, and shoals extend 10 or 12 miles southward and eastward, making its approach 
 in thick weather very dangerous. There is said to be a channel between the caj^e and the 
 first shoal, but the report requires verification. The coast line increases in height west- 
 ward of the cape, the headlands in Kulnlak and Togiak bays reaching an altitude of 500 feet 
 or more. 
 
 The "Walrus Group is composed of three islands and three rocks, all above water, 
 extending It) miles east and west and about 6 miles north and south. 
 
 Round Island, the easternmost of the group, lies W. i S., 3C miles from Cape Con- 
 stantine. It is nearly 2 miles in length, | mile wide, and about 800 feet high, its west end 
 being in latitude 58° 3G' 09" N., longitude 159° 57' 51.7" W. 
 
 Crooked Island is between 4 and 5 miles in length and 2 miles in greatest width. The 
 eastern part is rather low, but toward the western exti-emity the elevation is nearly equal 
 to that of Round Island. There is quite a large bay on tlie northeast side, Vmt we did not 
 examine it. 
 
 High Island, the westernmost of the group, is 4 miles in length, about 1 mile in width, 
 and 900 feet or more in height. 
 
 The Twins are two isolated rocks 4 miles to the southward of Crooked Island, the 
 larger 300 and the smaller 100 feet in height.
 
 30 BULLETIN NO. 40 — SECOND EDITfON. 
 
 Black Rock, aLoiit 150 feet high, lies 1 mile northward of the south end of Crooked 
 Island. 
 
 No other outlying dangers were seen in passing between the islands and the mainland. 
 From G to 10 fathoms were found ahi'east the "group, the depth gradually decreasing to 3 
 fathoms off the north eud of Hagemeister Island. We were near the shore, however, and 
 would doiibtless have found more water in mid-channel. 
 
 Hagemeister Island lies 9 miles west of High Island, and is l-t miles in length and 8 
 in width. It is mountainous except for about 5 miles at the north end. Shoal ground 
 surrounds the island and extends from 20 to 25 miles to the eastward, including the area 
 between Hagemeister and the Walrus Group. 
 
 Hagemeister Channel is about 16 miles in length and lies between the island of that 
 name and the mainland. It is from 3 to 4 miles in width, but shingle spits contract it in 
 two places to less than 3 miles. The least water was i\ fathoms. Good anchorage was 
 found under Tongue Point, the shingle spit making out from the mainland about midway 
 of the channel. From the above anchorage the Albatross stood directly to sea, passing 
 within a mile of the southwestern extremity of Hagemeister Island ; thence S. ^ "W., shoaling 
 the water to 3 fathoms 7 miles from the island. Greater depths might possibly be found 
 by taking a more westerly course. The tidal currents are very strong through the channel. 
 We were visited by a number of Eskimos while at anchor under Tongue Point. 
 
 Cape Peirce is of moderate height and symmetrical form. Depths of 10 fathoms are 
 found 2 miles to the southward of the cape, and good anchorage in 10 fathoms of water is 
 found inside Seal Island (the island lying just to the eastward of the cape). 
 
 Cape Newenham is a high, bold, headland, with sharp peaks and rugged lines. In 
 1899 the U. S. S. Co rwrn passed within 3 miles to the westward of Cape Newenham -and 
 carried 4 to 5 fathoms of water. While following the land at a distance of 2 miles, and 
 keeping out of the indentations between Cape Newenham and Goodnews Bay, the depths 
 wei'e 3-5- to 4 fathoms until within 3 miles of the entrance to the bay, where the water shoals 
 abruptly. The Albatross found anchorage under the latter cape near Seal Rock during a 
 southerlj^ gale, and laid it out very comfoi'tably, notwithstanding swift currents and heavy 
 tide rips. 
 
 The Kuskokwim River is much dreaded by navigators on account of its extensive 
 shoals, strong currents, etc. The Albatross ascended it between 35 and 40 miles without 
 difficulty or delay, but encountered extensive shoals on her return. Thick weather and the 
 lack of time prevented an extended examination. They commenced about 9 miles WSW. 
 from Goodnews Bay and extended in a westerly direction for 10 miles or more. There is a 
 channel between the shoal and the land about 4 miles wide, having a depth of 5 fathoms. 
 From a point 5 miles WSW. from the west head of Goodnews Bay we stood direct for Cape 
 Newenham, the least depth being 4 fathoms. Great quantities of fresh water are borne 
 down the Kuskokwim by the rapid currents, and, while there have been no surveys by which 
 changes can be noted, there seems no reasonable doubt that great alterations have taken 
 place since Cook ascended the river in the last century. 
 
 METEOROI.OGICAL, CONDITIOKS OF BRISTOL BAY. 
 
 The winds and weather in Bristol Bay and the other jiarts of Bering Sea visited by the 
 Albatross from the last of May to the 1st of September, 1890, may be summarized in a few 
 words. 
 
 Southwest winds prevailed, but we had them frequently from southeast to northwest. 
 It was boisterous weather nearly half the time, but seldom rough enough to interfere with 
 our work. We had several summer gales of moderate force, but no severe storms. Fog 
 and mist prevailed, and a clear day was the rare exception. The tidal currents were 
 strongest in the vicinity of Unimak Pass and at the head of the bay; they were greatly 
 affected, however, by the winds. The flood stream set to the northward and slightly inshore 
 along the coasts of Unimak Island and the peninsula, the ebb to the southward and offshore.
 
 BERING SEA AND ARCTIC OCEAN. 31 
 
 The former was invariably the stronger, and probably found an outlet by sweeping past 
 Cape Constantino in the direction of Cape Newenham. There has been no systematic study 
 of the currents of Bering Sea, and the almost constant fogs prevent the navigator from 
 adding mucli to our meager knowledge concerning them. 
 
 PRIBILOF ISLANDS. 
 
 This group consists of St. Paul, St. George, Otter, and Walrus islands. The two latter 
 are small and uninhabited. St. Paul and St. George are imjiortant as containing the 
 largest and most numerous seal rookeries of the world. These two islands are each in 
 charge of a United States Government agent, and are at present under lease to the North 
 American Commercial Comjjany. Excepting vessels of the United States Government and 
 those in the employ of the company, all vessels are forbidden landing on these islands. 
 There are no harbors about the islands, and the anchorages are only available with the wind 
 off the land. Because of the uncertain and shifting nature of the wind in this locality, 
 vessels should always anchor with a view of getting under way quickly if necessary. 
 
 Fogs are especially thick and prevalent in this vicinity in the summer, and navigation 
 is attended with difficulty and danger. 
 
 These islands are at about the southern limit of the ice in Bering Sea. Detached fields 
 of ice will generally be found in their vicinity from February to May. 
 
 ST. GEOEGE ISLAND. 
 
 St. George Island consists mainly of high volcanic hills and ridges, and its entire shore 
 is a preciiiitous cliff except for a few miles on the north side and short intervals at Garden 
 Cove and Zapadui Bay. The east and west extremities of the island, Tolstoi and Daluoi 
 points, are both bold promontories. 
 
 High Bluff, on the north side of the island, 1,012 feet high, is a prominent landmark, 
 and is plainly visible from St. Paul Island, a distance of nearly 40 miles, on a clear day. 
 There are no harbors, but vessels anchor at North Anchorage, Garden Cove, and Zapadni 
 Baj^, according to the direction of the wind ; the anchorages are poor except with the wind 
 directlj' off the land. At a distance generally not greater than 2 miles from the island the 
 depth of water is but little less than the surrounding sea, and in thick weather it is not 
 safe to depend upon soundings for picking up the land unless sure of the position. Vessels 
 sliould not approach the island in less than 12 fathoms of water. Tliere are no outlying 
 dangers except the small reefs at Zapadni Bay and at North Anchorage. It is reported that 
 vessels have found breakers, in very heavy weather, about 9 miles east of Tolstoi Point. 
 
 Anchorages. — The anchorage in Zapadni Bay, on the southwest side of the island, in 
 10 fathoms of water, affords good shelter with winds from east-northeast to north-northwest. 
 The landing is on the open sand beach, and can usually be made with northerly winds. A 
 reef extends about ^ m\\v oft'sliore to the soutliward of the anchorage. 
 
 With northerly winds, a landing may sometimes be made at Garden Cove, on the 
 sand beach. The anchorage affords good shelter from nnrtliwesterly winds, bu( with the 
 exception of a small area the bottom is rocky. 
 
 At North Anchorage there are two houses on the beach, with a road back of them 
 leading up the hill tu the village. In approaching, get these two houses open and steer for 
 them. Anchor in not less than 10 fathoms. A flag is shown from the flagstaff when 
 landing is possible. The landing westward of the houses is a cutting in the rocks for small 
 boats to enter at high or medium tides. It is somewhat j^rotected by a ledge of rocks north 
 of it, and by kelp, whicli tends to reduce the breakers. At East Landing, just northeast of 
 the village, is a similar boat landing, but better jjrotected fi'oui a westerly swell. A ledge 
 of rocks awash lies a short distance off this landing. 
 
 Tidal Currents. — The current sets eastward during the rising tide and westward dur- 
 ing the falling tide, with a maximum velocity of 2j knots. With opposing wind and
 
 32 BULLETIN NO. 40 — SECOND EDITION. 
 
 current, tide rips occur off Tolstoi and Dalnoi points. Tliese rips are not heavy enough to 
 be of any moment, except that to strangers they may appear to be breakers. The water off 
 both points is deep and they can be passed close-to with safety. 
 
 OTTER ISLAND. 
 
 Otter Island has an abrupt bluff at its southwest end, 288 feet high, sloping gradually to 
 the north and rising again in a crater, 150 feet high, at its extreme east end. Foul ground, 
 marked by kel]i, extends aboiit f mile from the island on its south, southwest, and north 
 sides. The north side, from Crater Point to Northwest Reef, is clear of dangers. Probably 
 the best anchorage near the island is in 9^ fathoms, black sand and broken shells, with the 
 northeast extremity of Crater Point bearing S. by E., distant -J mile. This island must be 
 approached with great caution in thick weather, ami at all times keep out of kelp. Between 
 Otter Island and Reef Point, St. Paul Island, the tidal currents are strong, and with heavy 
 winds dangei'ous tide rips occur. 
 
 WALEUS ISLAND. 
 
 Walrus Island is low, about 15 or 20 feet above the water, level on top, and composed 
 of irregular masses of volcanic rock. It is about f mile long and i mile wide. Anchorage 
 can be had on either side of it, i to ^|- mile offshore, in 10 to 15 fathoms. Landing can be 
 made with smooth water, the best place for this purpose being in a small cove at the southwest 
 corner. The island is a bad place to make in a fog. 
 
 Parts of Otter and Walrus islands are covered with sea lurds in the breeding season, 
 and at the proper time a plentiful supplj' of eggs may be obtained. 
 
 ST. PAUL ISLAND. 
 
 The west and southwest sides of St. Paul Island are high and mountainous, with 
 precipitous cliffs at the shore line. The rest of the island is a comparatively low, rolling 
 plateau, with a number of extinct volcanic peaks scattered over its sui-face. Bogoslof, 590 
 feet high, a conical crater near the center of the Island, and Polovina, a double-peaked hill 
 near its east end, are very conspicuous, and are the best landmarks in clear weather when 
 coming from tJie southward. From this hill the island stretches away in a low, narrow neck 
 to Hutchinson Hill, on Northeast Point. West of Lukanin Bay the shore of the south side 
 of the island is rocky, with bluffs at the points. The shore of the rest of the island is 
 generally a sand beach, with rocks in the vicinity of the seal rookeries. 
 
 Dangers.— The north shore from Cross Hill to Southwest Point is free of dangers, no 
 reefs or rocks up to within -J- mile of land, except off North Hill ; Tint the bottom is uneven 
 and rocky and the anchorage not generally good. 
 
 Breakers extend off SouthAvest Point a distance of -k mile or more. 
 
 A dangerous ledge of rocks, \isually marked by breakers, extends oft' Reef Point fully 
 i mile. 
 
 A reef extends oft' Stony Point about i mile. 
 
 The rocks off Sea Lion Neck should be given a berth of at least 1 mile. The dangerous 
 reef north of Hutchinson Hill, the northeast point of the island, consists of two rocks marked 
 by keljj. There are 3^ fathoms on the outer rock and 3 fathoms on the inner. The outer 
 kelp patch is a little less than 1 mile N. by "W. i W. from Hutchinson Hill. There are 
 depths of 4. 5, and (5^ fathoms close in to the shore, with 7^, 9, and 13 fathoms midway 
 between the rocks and the shore. With a moderate swell the sea breaks over these rocks 
 and for a short distance off Northeast Point. 
 
 Oft' North Hill a shoal extends aboiit i mile northward, the depths gradually increas- 
 ing to 4, 5, and G|- fathoms at the distance of 1 mile from the shore. A rocky patch, with 
 7 fathoms water on it and 9 to K! fathoms around, lies with Hutchinson Hill bearing NE. 
 by E. J E., distant 3J miles. There may be less water on the shoal, as the locality was not 
 fully examined.
 
 BERI^'G SEA AXD ARCTIC OCEAN. 33 
 
 Anchorage. — The usual anclionige at tliis island is off the west side of Reef Point, and 
 there is also an anchoi'age on the east side, off Black Bluffs. From the anchorage ou the 
 west side the village is hidden, but there is a flagstaff on the top of the hill overlooking the 
 bay; from the Black Bluffs anchorage the village is in full view, and there is another 
 flagstaff", the lower of the two, on this side. If a vessel is seen approaching, the United 
 States ensign is hoisted on the flagstaff' on the side on which she ought to anchor, and the 
 ensign is kept flying if landing is safe, but hauled down if it is not safe. 
 
 Vessels should not attempt to ride out a gale at anchor near the islands, unless to 
 leeward and well sheltered. The surf is apt to make quickly and is dangerous on the 
 weather side of the island. 
 
 Lauding. — In Village Cove, the landing place on the west side, a bar extends across 
 the entrance on wTiich the sea breaks unexpectedly, and is often dangerous for boats. 
 
 The landing ou the east side is a small cutting in the rocks, close to a boathouse, which 
 is the only house near the beach ; with westerly winds landing here is easy. 
 
 A landing can sometimes be made at the head of the cove on the south side of Lukanin 
 Bay, when impracticable at Black Bluffs or Village Cove. 
 
 Village. — The village consists of a number of small wooden houses, painted white, with 
 dark roofs, a church, also several larger buildings for the Govei"nment Agent and the officers 
 of the North American Commercial Comiaany (who in 1890 obtained a lease of the Pribilof 
 seals for 20 years). There are about 250 inhabitants. 
 
 Tides. — See tide table, pages 10-11. 
 
 Tidal Current. — Aroimd St. Paul Island the flood tidal current sets eastward and 
 the ebb westward, following the trend of the shore. Its velocity at the surface is 2^ knots 
 an hour at springs, and 1 knot at neaps. Below the surface its velocity is much greater. 
 The tides and tidal currents are greatly influenced by the winds. 
 
 ST. MATTHEW AND ADJOINING ISLANDS. 
 
 These are rocky, iininhabited islands, whose shores are little known and are poorly 
 charted. During the season of navigation fogs are very prevalent in their vicinity and 
 vessels .should keep away from them. From what is known of them, anchorage may be 
 made with an offshore wind on nearly all sides, though the shore should be approached with 
 great caution. 
 
 Pinnacle Island is a remarkable narrow rock, about 1 mile long, 200 yards wide, and 
 
 900 feet high, which rises so abruptly from the water that there is scarcely a place for a 
 
 boat to land. Tliere are numerous small rocks near the .shore of the island, and it should be 
 
 avoided. 
 
 ST. MATTHEW ISLAND. 
 
 Cape Upright is high and vertical, and the land in its immediate vicinity is mountain- 
 ous; off' the cape is a detached rock about 25 feet high. Westward of the high land 
 of the cape there is a low neck, apparently of sand, and the cajie might easily be mistaken 
 for a detached island. 
 
 Glory of Russia Cape is also high and mountainous, and the land between it and 
 Cape Upright is a succession of hills and low valleys, that extend across the island from 
 north to south. 
 
 There are numerous detached rocks along all the shore of this island, which should not 
 be approached too closely. 
 
 There is an abundance of fresh water on the island in streams and fresh-water lakes. 
 
 Tliere is a good anchorage on tlie north side of the island in a bight G^ miles to the 
 westward of Cape Ui)right, with Sugarloaf Peak bearing SS'W., and westward of some 
 outlying rocks which show well out of water and should not be approached closely. This 
 anchorage is jjrotccted from southerly winds b(>(wecn southrast and soutliwest. Landing 
 
 17789 —
 
 84 BULLETIlsr NO. 40 — SECOND EOITION. 
 
 is difficult with any swell at all, as the beach is of stones and rather steep. With northerly 
 winds anchorage can be had on the south side of the island. 
 
 IL\.L,Ij IST.,AXD is high and rugged on its northeast, north, and west sides, and slopes 
 to the southeast point, where it is low. There is a large detached rock off North Cape, and a 
 number of detached rocks on the south side of the island. There is anchorage in 10 fathoms 
 on the east side of the island in the bight where ruins are indicated on Chart No. 8901. 
 
 Sarychef Strait. — The tidal currents and rips are strong, and the rocks on either side 
 give it a bad appearance. It is said to be clear in mid-channel. 
 
 Tides.— See tide table, pages 10-11. 
 
 Tidal Currents. — The flood current sets to the eastward, and -the ebb to the westward, 
 at the rate of 1 to 2i- knots. 
 
 NUNIVAK ISLAND. 
 
 This island is little known, poorly charted, and rarely approached by deep-draft vessels. 
 For a distance of 10 miles about the island, especially on its east and north sides, the bottom 
 is reported very uneven, consisting of ridges with deeper water between. The island should 
 therefore be approached with caution. From the westward it presents a level shore, not 
 high, terminating seaward in reddish bluffs. Near the center there are some mountains of 
 moderate height that rise with a gentle slope. Except some hills, the eastern end of the 
 island is low. In clear weather the Island can generally be made out at a distance of 30 
 miles from any direction. 
 
 Cape Mohican, tlie western point, is a moderately high, steep cape with reddish bluffs. 
 
 Cape Mendenhall, the southern point, is about 300 feet high, with a steep bluff on its 
 east side, which extends lialfway to the bottom of the bight between this cupe and Cape 
 Corwin. 
 
 Cape CorAvin, the eastern point, is low, with a rocky shore north of it. 
 
 Cape Etolin, the northern point, is a narrow strip of land about f mile long, curved 
 something like an interrogation point. There is a ridge of low hills about midway of this 
 outer strip. A small island lies about 2 miles off the end of the cape with rocky ledges 
 between it and the point of the cape. 
 
 In 1899 the U. S. S. Corwin cruised completely around Nunivak Island, following the 
 shore and outlying islands at a distance of about 2 miles, and found a general depth of from 
 7 to 10 fathoms. The coast is generally abrujDt and rocky, with numerous bights in which 
 anchorage was found with 3^ to 7 fathoms of water. 
 
 AKCIIORAGES. — There is an anchorage in an open bay on the southwest side of the 
 island. It is apparently clear of dangers, the water shoaling from 15 fathoms 3 miles to 
 6 fathoms f mile offshore, with sandy bottom. Landing may be effected in a small stream 
 running from a lagoon to the sea, but it is exposed and difficult. There are two or three 
 huts, where some natives live, about ^ mile up the stream. 
 
 On the southeast side of Cape Etolin there is an anchorage in Etolin Bay, which is a 
 bight open to the northeast. This bay averages about | mile wide and nearly f mile deep. 
 Near the southerly side and about ^ mile from the head of the bight an anchorage in 18 
 feet can be found; farther out it is deeper but more exposed to the effects of the strong tidal 
 currents and rips of Etolin Strait. The holding ground is gravel and only moderately 
 good. There is a small native winter village at the northeast corner of the bay. 
 
 The three following anchorages are from an oral description by Capt. J. L. Fisher, who 
 anchored with a stern-wheel steamboat in each of them in July, 1898 : 
 
 The first is in the bight between Cape Mendenhall and Cape Corwin, close inshore, in 3 
 fathoms, with sand and gravel bottom. Fresh water can be obtained at this anchorage. 
 
 The second is in the cove on the north side of Cape Cor-win ; it is very rocky and a 
 poor anchorage. Fresh water can be obtained here; it is discolored and of poor quality. 
 
 The third is on the east side of, and about 12 miles south of, the north end of the island. 
 It is in a cove open to the eastward, but deep enough to afford shelter from northerly and
 
 CO 
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 D
 
 BERING SEA AND AlKTIC (H'EAN. 35 
 
 southerly winds. Captain Fisher consi<lers this the best anchorage on the east side of the 
 island. Fre.sh water can be obtained at this place. 
 
 DANGERS. — Breakers are said to exist G or 7 miles from the southern extremity of the 
 island. 
 
 A shoal about 10 miles NE. from the outer end of Cape Mohican is thought to cover 
 quite an area. 
 
 Th« water shoals very gradually toward the westerly end of the island. 
 
 A dangerous rocky si^it makes off to the westward for probably more than H miles fi'om 
 Cape Etolin. 
 
 Father Barnum states that the tidal currents in Etolin Strait are so strong that the 
 middle portion does not freeze over in winter. 
 
 ST. LAWRENCE ISLAND. 
 
 The eastern end of this island is usually made by vessels bound into Norton Sound, and 
 in clear weather can be seen from a distance of 30 to 35 miles. From Southeast Cape a 
 ridge of mountains extend in a northerly direction across the island, and another ridge 
 extends in a northerly direction from East Cape to Northeast Cajse. Between these two 
 ridges a deep bight makes in from the southward and at its head very low land extends to the 
 northward across the island. The shore of the eastern end of the island is generally a low sand 
 beach with outlying rocks; the mountain ridges begin ^ to 3 miles back from the beach. 
 
 Punuk Islands, lying about 5 miles ESE. from East Cape, consist of a group of three 
 small islands extending 2^ miles in a general northeast and southwest direction. The north- 
 ernmost and largest island has two very marked rocky hummocks, the higher having an 
 elevation of 100 to 150 feet; on the southwestern end of the island are the remains of a native 
 village. The southernmost island is an irregular mass of rocks, the highest point about 75 
 feet above water. Between these islands is a low, sandy islet, which is separated from the 
 other two by narrow channels completely obstructed by rocky ledges over which the sea 
 breaks. The shores of all the islands are foul, and a ledge extends southward from the 
 southernmost island for a distance of several miles. Vessels should approach these islar.rs 
 with caution. 
 
 A heavy break was observed in the channel between Punuk Islands and East Cape, and 
 vessels should not attempt to pass through. From the eastward the islands can be approached 
 as close as 3 miles. 
 
 Southeast Cape is about 5 miles across on its southern face; the eastern point of the 
 cape slopes gradixally to the water for a distance of i mile from the high land, and a reef 
 extends about i mile SE. from the point. The western point is lower and slopes moi'e 
 gradually to the water -for a distance of 3 miles from the high land, and a reef makes off 
 from the point in a southerly direction for a distance of 3 to 3 miles. The bight between 
 these points is very foul and should be avoided. 
 
 Cape Krallegak, aboiit 5 miles northward of Southeast Cape, is a long sand spit 
 strewn with rocks, extending in a northeasterly direction from the high land of the coast, 
 and forms what is in appearance a good anchorage in southerly winds. There are breakers 
 about f mile NNW. from the end of the cape, and there may be others inside ; a reef extends 
 to the southward from the south side of the sand spit for a distance of about 1 mile. The 
 remains of a native village oil the sand spit servo to identify the locality. 
 
 The deep bight to the westward of East Cape is little known ; vessels have amdiored well 
 up toward the head of this bight. Vessels entering should give the points a good berth and 
 exercise caution. 
 
 Northeast Cape is high, probably 800 to 1,000 feet, comparatively flat on top, and 
 can be seen on a clear day a distance of 35 miles or more. The ])oint of the cape is a low 
 sand spit, extending about 2 miles from the high land, with two humniocks about midway 
 between the high land and the shore. Although the l)ottom is irregular off the point of the 
 cape, no break was noticed while passing it in rough weather. The north shore of St.
 
 36 BULLETIN NO. 40 — SEf'ONT) EDITION. 
 
 Lawrence Island, for a distance of 10 miles westward of Northeast Cape, is a low sand 
 beach and grassy plain. Anchorage with shelter from southerly or soiitheasterly winds 
 can be had along this slioi-e and about 2 miles from the beach in 8 to 9 fathoms of water; 
 the holding ground is not good, the bottom being gravel. 
 
 Cape Chibukak, probably 600 feet high, is a steep, black bluff, flat on top. There is 
 a wide sand beach west of the bluff, on which is a native village. This native village, and 
 the one on Southwest Cape, are the only inhabited parts of the island. 
 
 The water is deep close-to, and anchorage may be made on either side of the point of 
 the sand beach off the native village, i mile from the shore, in about 7 fathoms of water, 
 hard bottom. 
 
 The western end of the island, south of Cape Chibukak, is rolling land. From West Cape 
 around to the bay east of Soiithwest Cape the land is mountainous, and abrupt close to the 
 coast, being highest at Southwest Cape. Between the high laud east of Southwest Cape 
 and Cape Chitnak the land is low. The rest of the island is generally high and rolling. 
 There are some sunken rocks in the bight westward of Southeast Cape, and also some 
 detached rocks showing off the north shore near capes Kukuliak and Siepermo. It is 
 probable that with care an anchorage may be found almost anywhere around the island, 
 but the shores must be approached with caution. 
 
 CAPE VAisrcorvrEE to scAM:MO>r bay. 
 
 Cape Vancouver is a bold promontory, possibly 1,000 feet high. The bank from the 
 Kuskokwini River is thought to extend to Cape Vancouver, so that on the south side of the 
 cape the water is shoal. Immediately off the end of the cape there is deep water, which 
 extends about 5 miles along the north side to the bight on which the native village of 
 Tununak is situated. This bight is a series of mud flats, mostly bare at low water. The 
 Bear anchored in 4i fathoms about 1 mile off the south point of the bight. From observa- 
 tion on that vessel in 1897, shoal water extends off the mouth of that bight northwest- 
 ward, and Hazen Bay is supposed to be shallow. 
 
 Cape Romanzof * is a bold, and prominent headland with cliffs rising abruptly from 
 the water over 1,200 feet along its western face; at the sharp extremity of the cape there are 
 remarkable perpendicular shafts of rock on the side of the cliff. The cape is the western 
 termination of the Askinuk Mountains, the highe.st of which (3,363 feet) is about 3 miles 
 from the cape and can be seen a considerable distance at sea. 
 
 Northeastward of the cape, ii miles, is the southern end of the Sand Islands. 
 These two islands extend in a general north and south direction about 13 miles, including 
 the interval between them, and at a distance from the coast diminishing from 7 to o miles. 
 The north island is mostly covered at high tide. 
 
 The coast trends in an easterly direction from Cape Romanzof 15 miles to the mouth of 
 Khun River, and thronghoixt most of this distance is bordered by abrupt cliffs and hills 
 gradually diminishing in elevation. 
 
 Scammon Bay lies between this shore and South Sand Island. In general it is very 
 shoal with numerous bars showing bare at low tide. There are two small coves along its 
 south side, respectively 1 and 9 miles from Cape Rmnanzof, but both are quite shoal. 
 There is a limited area of water with depth of 5 fathoms just south and east of the south- 
 ern end of Sand Island, and there is a channel of the same depth leading into this and 
 passing about 2^ miles north of Cape Romanzof. A narrow channel with a minimum 
 depth of about 2 fathoms continues through Scammon Bay and into the Khun River. 
 There is about 4 fathoms off Cape Romanzof but the water shoals quickly to the northeast- 
 ward, so there is little protection except for very light-di'aft boats. There is a large shoal 
 area with breakers about halfway between the cape and the Sand Island, and another shoal 
 with less than 2 fathoms lies NNW. (true) from the cape distant 2i miles. Along the 
 high land forming the south shore of Scammon Bay the water is 1 fathom or less in depth 
 throughout its length, excepting just inside of Cape Romanzof. 
 
 * On some recant charts Cape or Point Dyer, an unimportant bluff on the south shore of Scammon Bay, has been confused with Cape Romanzof.
 
 BEUIX(; SKA AM) AKCTIC OCKAX. 37 
 
 North frum the mouth of the Khiiu River the coast is low and marshy to the Yukon 
 River moutlis. It is reported to be extremely shoal between the northern Sand Island and 
 this shore. 
 
 The bay lying south of Cape Romanzof has not been explored, but a number of bars, 
 bare at low tide, were seen extending across its entrance between the cape and the north 
 end of an island ; near the latter there appeared to be a channel. The coast between Cape 
 Romanzof and Nelson Island is low, and it is reported that the adjacent waters are shoal. 
 
 The Yukon Flats extend from Scammon Bay to Stuart Island and should not be 
 approa.ched by deep-draft vessels nearer than in about 8 fathoms of water. (See page 40.) 
 
 NORTON SOUND. 
 
 Norton Sound is at present the most important arm of Bering Sea. All the supplies 
 for the Yukon River by way of St. Michael pass through it. The north shore is also impor- 
 tant because of the mining operations now conducted there. The south side of the entrance 
 to the sound is occupied by the extensive Yukon Flats, and should be avoided by deejD-draf t 
 vessels. The rest of the sound generally has soundings of from 8 to 13 fathoms, the greater 
 depths being near the north .side. Off Cape Nome and Cape Darby there are sjiots having 
 depths of 14 to 15 fathoms. The bottom of the sound is very even, the depths decreasing 
 to the shore with marked regularitj% and the lead will indicate the approach to dangers, 
 and should be kept going constantly. There is driftwood on all the shoi-es of the sound. 
 
 Fog. — The remarks on fog, page 9, apply also to the region west of Cape Nome, but 
 not to Norton Sound east of it. On entering the sound with thick weather in Bering Sea, 
 the fog will almost always thin out and gradually clear as the vessel proceeds up the sound. 
 At St. Michael fogs are rare. 
 
 Mirage. — In the vicinity of St. Michael and Stuart islands and the coast to the south- 
 ward mirage often distorts the apj)earance of the land, small objects being sometimes greatly 
 magnified. 
 
 Stuart Island lies northwest of St. Michael Island, from which it is sejiarated by 
 Stephens Pass, about | mile wide in its narrowest part. Stuart Mountain, 480 feet high, 
 east of the center is the highest point. The rest of the island is low and rolling, with some 
 small scattered peaks. The shore of the island is very irregular. From North Point to 
 Observation Point and around through Stephens Pass is a line of conspicuous bluffs about 
 170 feet high; the rest of the coast is much lower. From Observation Point to the west 
 point of the island the shores are bold and free from outlying dangers; :i fathoms can l)e 
 carried close in to the beach. Off tlie west point, some detached rocks extend for about 300 
 yards, but the reef formerly shown at this point does not exist. On the east face of the 
 island well tnw^ird the south point a reef and shoal water make out for about il miles. 
 
 St. Michael Island is separated from the mainland by a narrow, crooked, tidal slough, 
 called St. Michael Canal. The island is generally low, and has two conspicuous elevations: 
 St. Micliael Mountain, near the center, 473 feet high; and Stephens Mountain, a sliarp, 
 conical hill overlooking Stephens Pass. A reef extends some distance oif Rock Point, which 
 should be given a berth of 3 miles. 
 
 Whale Island, lying close off the east end of St. Michael Island, is about .V mile long 
 east and west, loufuet high, and on approaching the harbor its east end is seen as a vertical 
 bluff. The passage between this and St. Michael Island is completely blocked by rocks, 
 which are bare at low water. Eastward and northward of the island the water deepens 
 rapidly. 
 
 Beulah Island, about } mile northwest from Whale Island, is about 50 feet high. It 
 is small and rounded lik(^ a haystack. It has bold wat-er off its northeast side. Between 
 this and Whale Island the water is shoal.
 
 38 BULLETIN yo. 40 — SECOND EDITION. 
 
 Egg Island, about ]0 miles northeast from St. Michael, is a flat, rocky island about i 
 mile in diameter, and probably not more than 50 feet high. It is clear of dangers away 
 from shore, and anchorage can be had all around it. With northerly winds, when too 
 rough to lie in St. Michael Bay, a good lee can be found under Egg Island. 
 
 ST. IVnCUAEL,. 
 
 St. Michael, on the east point of St. Michael Island, is the point of transfer from deep- 
 water vessels to the Yukon River steamboats of the trading and transportation companies 
 doing business on the Yukon and its tributaries. This trade during the open season of 
 about four months is very extensive, and of late years has been greatly increasing. Some 
 of the companies have small wharves for the light-draft river vessels, and extensive ware- 
 houses on St. Michael Island and opposite on the mainland. Seagoing vessels discharge 
 their cargoes by lighters. 
 
 Supplies. — The trading companies maintain stores, which carry extensive general sup- 
 plies. Hotels are maintained by three or four of the companies. Fresh water is very 
 difficult to obtain. 
 
 Repairs. — The facilities for repairs above water and to woodwork are good. Several 
 blacksmith shops and small machine shops can handle ironwork and minor repairs to 
 machinery. 
 
 Anchorage. — There is no harbor for seagoing vessels, the anchorage being a roadstead 
 open from northwest through north to east, and is unsafe with heavy northerly weather. 
 The bay is extensive, and on account of the very gradiial shoaling vessels are compelled to 
 anchor in from 3 to 4^ fathoms at a distance of 1 to 3 miles from the nearest landings. In 
 heavy northerly weather vessels have to shift anchorage to deeper water, obtain shelter 
 under Egg Island, or go to sea. 
 
 Light-draft vessels and river steamers can iind shelter from northerly and westerly storms 
 by anchoring close in under the east side of the island, in from 3 to 8 feet. The shores of 
 St. Michael Bay are strewn with loose rocks, which are often frozen in the ice in winter and 
 dropped as it goes out in the spring. Light-draft vessels, when anchoring in shoal water, 
 should be careful not to anchor over any of these loose, scattered rocks. 
 
 Tides. — See tide table, pages 12-13. 
 
 Ice. — See table, page 14. 
 
 The coast from St. Michael Bay to Tolstoi Point is generally low, and the beach is rock- 
 strewn; but as far as known it is free from outlying dangers, and depths of 3 to 4 fathoms 
 can be carried quite close to the land. 
 
 Tolstoi Point and its vicinity are high and rocky, and from there to Unalaklik River 
 the shore is low. The soundings decrease regularly to the shore, except off the mouth of 
 Unalaklik River, where shoal water extends probably 1 mile. Just north of Unalaklik the 
 land can be approached to within \ mile with a depth of 3 fathoms. The head of the bight 
 to the eastward of Cape Denbigh is said to be somewhat shoaler than the shores to the 
 southward. 
 
 Besboro Island, about GOO feet high, is steep-sided and rounded. It is very prominent, 
 and ou a clear day can be seen from St. Michael Bay. Its shores are not known. 
 
 Cape Denbigh is a moderately high, rounded hill, joined to the mainland by a low, 
 narrow neck. 
 
 Norton Bay has not been recently navigated by vessels, and the head of the bay is said 
 to be too shoal except for vessels of very light draft. In this region the lead is the only 
 guide that can be dejjended upon. 
 
 Cape Darby is a high, rounded mountain, which terminates at the water in steep, 
 rocky bluffs. Off the cape the water is bold. 
 
 Rocky Point is somewhat similar in appearance to Cape Darby, but not so high. It 
 was so named because of a flat, bare rock close to it. The water off this cape, though not 
 so deejj as off Cape Darby, is good close-to.
 
 BERING SEA AND ARCTIC OCEAN. 39 
 
 Golofnin Bay, tlie entrance to which lies between Cape Darby and Rocky Point, with 
 a width of lu miles, extends in a general northerly direction for 1'2 miles to the entrance to 
 Golofnin Sound. The east shore is high and bold, with occasional sand and gravel beaches. 
 Carolyn Island, low and rocky, lies i mile off the east shore, about 8 miles north of Cape 
 Darljy. The west shore for about 4 miles north of Rocky Point is high and bold, but 
 beyond this is a low sand beach, with a prominent point about 5 miles north of Rocky 
 Point. At the head of the bay on the west side the entrance to Golofnin Sound lies between 
 a sand spit projecting from the eastern shore and a low sand island connected at low water 
 with the west shore and extending northward. 
 
 Deep water can be carried close under Cape Darby and Rocky Point. To the eastward 
 of Rocky Point is an extensive middle ground on which the least depth found was 3f fath- 
 oms; on its east edge it rises abruptly from 6 and 7 fathoms. With the exception of this 
 middle-ground, the bay is free from dangers south of the low jioint on the west shore, the 
 deepest water being on the east side, and ranging from 11 fathoms close uuder Cape Darby 
 to -1 fathoms, | mile northwest of Carolyn Island. In the south part of the bay the high- 
 land may be approached closely, but off the lowland the 3-fathom curve is in jjlaces nearly 
 1 mile offshore. 
 
 In the north part of the bay an extensive shoal, with but 8 to 9 feet, makes out in a 
 northeast direction from the west shore to within | of a mile of the east shore, its extremity 
 lying about 2 miles ENE. from the low sand island on the south side of the entrance to 
 Golofnin Sound. The channel leading to the entrance to Golofnin Sound lies on the eastern 
 shore of the baj-, passing around the east end of the shiial and following the shore at a dis- 
 tance of i to i mile, with an average width of 800 yards. The slioalest water in the chan- 
 nel is 12 feet at low water, but 15 feet has been taken in at high water. The rise and fall 
 of the tide (diurnal) is about 3 feet, but this is influenced by the prevailing winds, which 
 have a tendency to bank up the water in heavy southerly weather, and to lower it with 
 northerly and northeasterly winds. 
 
 Anchorage.- -Close under and immediately to the westward of the southern sand spit, 
 anchorage may be had in G to 7 fathoms, with protection from all winds. For vessels whose 
 draft prevents the use of this anchorage, the best is off" the point on the west side of the bay 
 in about 4 fathoms. This is unsafe in southerly weather, but is the most convenient for 
 communicating with the head of the bay. 
 
 Golofnin Sound has not been examined, but is believed to be shoal. 
 
 Rocky Point to Cape Nome. — For about 25 miles west of Rocky Point the land is high 
 and bold, in manj" places rising abruptly from the shore. Beyond this to Cape Nome the 
 land at the shore is low with high land farther back. Immediately behind this lowland is 
 a large shoal lagoon with two small entrances, the west one being known as Port Safety. 
 Between Rocky Point and Cape Nome the water is deep, the bottom regular, and, as far as 
 known, there are no dangers. 
 
 Port Safety is a small anchorage for vessels of less than 7 feet draft; it is about 8 miles 
 to the eastward of Cape Nome. The channel is very narrow and has a depth of 7 feet. 
 Small vessels can anchor in the narrow sloughs which lead between the flats inside the entrance. 
 
 GENERAIi DIRECTIONS FROM irNIlMAK PASS AXD UNALASKA BAY TO ST. 
 
 MICHAEL. 
 
 For vessels of any draft. — Vessels that do not touch at Unalaska Bay ports go 
 through Unimak Pass. 
 
 From Unalaska Bay or Unimak Pass the course is shaped to sight the v/est end of 
 Nunivak Island and pass it at a distance of from 15 to 25 miles. On this coui'se little can 
 be said of the currents that may be experienced, except tlnit with a strong wind in any 
 direction a current is likely to set with it. A slight set northward will bo experienced 
 at times. Thick weather is the rule on this course, and care should be observed when 
 in the vicinity of Nunivak Island.
 
 40 BULLETIN NO. 10 SECOND EDITION. 
 
 When due west of Nunivak Island the coui-se is shaped for a position 35 miles east of 
 St. Lawrence Island. The east end of the island is high, and will be easily made out at this 
 distance in clear weather. On this course thick weather is the rule, and the set of the cur- 
 rent is northward and westward, especially as St. Lawrence Island is approached. 
 
 " When due east of the east end of St. Lawrence Island, change course and head for Cape 
 Nome. On this course there is usually qi;ite a current coming from the Yukon delta and 
 running toward Bering Strait. During the freshet season a current of the roily river water 
 carrying driftwood will be crossed. In the fresher portion of this ocean stream the water 
 was found to be one-fifth as salt as sea water." On this course thick weather is not so prev- 
 alent as farther soaith. 
 
 When Cape Nome is distinctly made out and the position fixed, which will not be, even 
 in clear Aveather, until the vessel has about reached the G4th parallel, a .sti-aight course can 
 be shaped for North Point of Stuart Island. But if the weather is thick on nearing Cape 
 Nome, vessels should stand on until sure of being as far north as the 64th parallel, and then 
 stand into the soiind on this parallel until Cape Darby and Rocky Point are made out, when 
 the course can be shaped for North Point of Stuart Island as before, steering to pass it at a 
 distance of about 3 miles. On the course for Stuart Island in clear weather the mountains 
 on the mainland, soiitheast from St. Michael, are first sighted, though the mountain on 
 Stuart Island and St. Michael Mountain can usually be seen at a long distance. In this part 
 of the sound thick weather is not so frequent as in Bering Sea. 
 
 When North Point of Stuart Island is abeam, distant about 3 miles, change course to 
 E. by S., giving Rock Point a berth of about 4 miles. When Whale Island is abeam haul 
 to the southward for St. Michael Bay, and anchor according to depth. On the course from 
 Stuart Island when off Rock Point, the houses, and at night the lights, of St. Michael show 
 across the land to the westward of Whale Island, and strangers should be careful not to 
 enter the bight between it and Rock Point by mistake. 
 
 Dangers. — If no observations can be obtained on account of thick weather,- the lead 
 must be depended upon and used constantly, as the currents are liable to set a vessel off her 
 course. 
 
 Yukon Flats. — From the latest surveys, the lowland of the Yukon delta has been 
 found to extend nearly 15 miles farther westward than had heretofore been supposed, but 
 the shoals do not extend any farther westward than shown on present charts, except at 
 their northwest extremity. 
 
 From a point 5 miles west of Cape Romanzof, the 5-fathom curve extends due north 
 about 100 miles to longitude 105° 05' W., latitude 63° 25' N., when it turns eastward, and runs 
 about east-northeast for 65 miles to the west point of Stuart Island. On the west edge of 
 the iiats the 3-fathom curve is seldom more than a mile inside the 5-fathom curve, but on 
 the north edge this distance increases eastward, becoming greatest in the vicinity of Point 
 Romanof , with a long pocket under the south shore of Stuart Island. When in the vicinity 
 of the flats vessels should not shoal the water to less than 8 fathoms. 
 
 From the information obtained by recent surveys the following sailing directions are 
 believed to be safe and practicable, but they are not intended to supersede the sailing 
 directions given elsewhere until the results of the surveys have been charted. 
 
 Vessels clearing North Point, Stuart Island, by 3 miles, may steer "WSW., and having 
 made good the course for a distance of 90 miles, being in longitude 165° 40' W. and latitude 
 63° 40' N., may shape a course to the southward to clear Nunivak Island by a distance of not 
 less than 15 miles. 
 
 Vessels bound to Cape Nome maj' shape a direct course N. f W. when not less than 15 
 miles west of Nunivak Island, or S. f E. when bound soiith from Cape Nome. These 
 courses clear all dangers and will pass about 28 miles west of Cape Romanzof (on some 
 charts Point or Cape Dyer), which will bo plainly visible at this distance in clear weather. 
 
 Attention is again called to the caution that on these courses the water should not be 
 shoaled to less than 8 fathoms in the viciuitv of the flats.
 
 BERING SEA AND AltCriC OCEAN. 41 
 
 From the survey of the United States Coast and Geodetic Survey Steamer PaUerson 
 in ISOO, tlu^ shoal spots northward of the flats shown on tlie charts coxihl not be found, 
 and ])rol)ably do not exist. The vessels reporting them have proluihly been on the north 
 edge of the flats. 
 
 Rock Point. — A shoal makes off about 2 miles from Rock Point, tlie north point of St. 
 Micliacl Island. From the outer extremity of the shoal the east end of Whale Island bears 
 about SE. by S. 
 
 GEXEKAL, DIRECTIONS FROM ISANOTSKI STRAIT TO ST. 3IICIIAEI.. 
 
 The following directions are intended to apply only to small vessels and river steamboats : 
 
 After passing out of Isanotski Strait to the northeastward, clear of the outlying breakers 
 (see Isanotski Strait, page 14), the course is shaped for the east side of Amak Island. 
 Shelter can be found on the south, southeast, and east sides of the island. Some of the Moran 
 fleet found shelter in 1898 on the east side in about 6 fathoms. Capt. J. L. Fisher states 
 that he crossed pretty close inshore over the indicated shoal off the southeast end, with a 
 least depth of 7 fathoms. He also states that the outlying rocks and reefs off the north end 
 of the island appeared very nasty and dangerous. 
 
 Leaving Amak Island, the next course is laid for Cajie Newenham. Shelter can be 
 obtained, it is believed, on either side, according to the wind. On July 15, 1898, the bight 
 northeast from Cape Newenham was found jjacked full of ice by the small steamer Joe 
 Matfheirs. 
 
 From Cape Newenham the course is laid for Nunivak Island. If heavy northerly or 
 northeasterly winds ai'e encountered before the island is reached, shelter is sought in the 
 depth of the bight on the south side. Weather conditions being good, it is only necessary 
 to touch at this island for water. The anchorage on the east side, about 12 miles south 
 from Cape Etolin, is considered the best. (See Nunivak Ifeland, page 34.) 
 
 Froui the northern end of Nunivak Island, the customary course is to cross over 
 diagonally to a little north of Hazen Bay, and then coast along just outside the shoals, in 
 from 3 to 5 fathoms of water, until Cape Romanzof is reached. If the weather is unpropi- 
 tious or water is required, an anchorage in Scammon Bay is made close inshore on the south 
 side, in a bight where a stream empties. 
 
 After leaving Scammon Bay, by giving the spit on the north side of the entrance a good 
 berth, the remaining distance to St. Michael is made by skirting along on the outer portion 
 of the Yukon Flats, in from 2 to 5 fathoms, where the courses are exclusively guided by the 
 use of the lead. On this crooked stretch, after the mountains of Cape Romanzof and the 
 Kusilvak Mountains disappear, no land will be visible until the high peaks on the mainland 
 south from Stuart Island are sighted; a little later the summits of Stuart and St. Michael 
 islands become visible. After Stuart and St. Michael islands become defined, the course is 
 shaped so as to go through the pass between them, and then skirt arouiul the nortk side of 
 St. Michael Island to St. Michael. 
 
 Remarks. — In the summer season, from all that can be learned, northerly and easterly 
 winds prevail a largo portion of the time between Cape Newenham and Cape Romanzof. 
 
 The tidal currents in Etolin Strait are strong and at times cause heavy tide rips. 
 
 Fatlun- Baruiim states that there are shoals parallel with the coast, behind which small 
 boats go when coasting between Scammon Bay and Nelson Ishmd. Ho is uncertain as to 
 their exact limits and location, but they are believed to extend from the north entrance to 
 Hazen Bay to, or nearly to. Cape Romanzof, with passages through in many places. 
 
 COAST FROM ST. »nCIIAEL TO THE APOON MOUTH OF THE YUKON RIVER. 
 
 St. Michael being the end of deep-water navigation, all the Yukon traffic beyond this 
 point has to be conducted with vessels drawing .5 feet or less. The larger class of river 
 steamljoats leaving St. Michael Bay go around the north side of St. Michael Island and 
 through Stephens Pass, between St. Michael and Stuart islands. They give the reef oil'
 
 42 BULLETIN NO. 40 — SECOND EDITION. 
 
 Rock Point, on the north side of St. Michael Island, a wide berth, and after passing between 
 the islands a straight 'coiirse is made sliglitly to the westward of Point Romanof. "When 
 the summit of Point Romanof is abeam, distant about 1^ miles, the direction is chiinged and 
 a straight course is made for the range beacons for entering the Apoon Pass. The most 
 dangerous portion of the passage is the 14 miles around the north end of St. Michael Island, 
 which is exposed to the deep-water swell from the north. This can be avoided by the small 
 craft by going through St. Michael Canal. 
 
 St. Michael Canal.— St. Michael Island is separated from the mainland by a narrow, 
 crooked, tidal slougli, which forks and comes together again. The distance through by 
 way of the north fork is 18 miles, and by the south one 20 miles. The southern and longest 
 one is the widest, and for that reason is the one generally used. There is a sufficient depth 
 of water in the canal for ordinary river steamboats, but its northern entrance, which has 
 some scattered rocks in it, is too shoal to enter at low tide. The southern entrance has 
 about 3 feet on its bar at mean low tide. Thus far, on account of its narrowness and sharp 
 curves, it has only been used by the smaller class of steamboats. 
 
 From Stephens Pass io the entrance to the Apoon Pass is 43 miles along an open coast, 
 but, owing to the protection fi'om heavy seas offered by the flats that extend for miles 
 to seaward, this portion of the distance is safe in summer months for the flat-bottomed river 
 steamboats that have to traverse it. 
 
 With the exception of the promontory of Point Romanof, the immediate coast line is 
 very low and flat all the way from St. Michael Island to and including the Apoon entrance. 
 The promontory of Point Romanof, 340 feet high, stands well out about 12 miles west- 
 ward from the high hills of the coast range. After clearing Stephens Pass it appears 
 in clear weather like an island in the sea. Coming north from the Apoon entrance after 
 passing Point Romanof, Crater, St. Michael, and Stuart mountains appear above the 
 horizon, and afford excellent landmarks. 
 
 In moderate weather the ocean swell is not felt between Stephens Pass and the Apoon 
 entrance; but in heavy weather and westerly weather, which is more likely to occur during 
 the latter part of the season, there is a choppy sea which is heavier off Point Romanof than 
 elsewhere. In general, after rounding the north side of St. Michael Island, this passage 
 is safe for river steam'ers in the summer season. During the latter part of the season, 
 however, high winds become more frequent, and the boats are obliged to watch their 
 opportunities. 
 
 Anchorages. — River steamboats anchor on the flats or in tlie channel, wherever 
 exigency demands. 
 
 Good shelter can be had in all but southwesterly weather in the cove on the south side 
 of Cape Stephens, in from 6 to 9 feet of water. Stebbius, a large Eskimo settlement, is 
 located on this cove. 
 
 In the southern end of St. Michael Canal, in the southern branch just above the 
 junction, there is a good and safe anchorage in all kinds of weather. There is only about 
 3 feet at mean low tide on the outside bar, and it has to be crossed at high tide. 
 
 About 10 miles southward of Canal Point is the Pikmiktalik River. In the mouth of 
 the right-hand stream there is an anchorage for medium-sized steamers. The bar to this 
 stream has only about 2-^ feet on it at mean low tide. A shoal extends out from the south 
 point at the entrance. 
 
 The mouth of the Pastoliak River, about 2 miles from the outer end of the Apoon 
 Pass, affords anchorage for steamboats under medium size. The Apoon Flats extend in 
 front of the entrance, and it can only be entered at high tide. 
 
 APOOX PASS. 
 
 This is the most northern outlet of the 'Yukon River, and is about 55 miles, via 
 Stephens Pass, from St. Michael. AVith the exception of two steamboats that entered the 
 Kwiklowak Pass during the season of 18'J8, it hasbeenusedexclusively for more than twenty 
 years by the steamboats trading up the Yukon and its tributaries.
 
 BEIUNG SEA AKl) AliCTlC OCKAX. 43 
 
 The Apoou Pass is the extreme northeastern limit of the Yukon Delta. In common 
 with the rest of this region, the conntrj- is low and flat, it being from 1 to 2 feet above 
 high-water mark. Down to within about 2 miles of its mouth, the banks are generally 
 covered with low willow and alder bushes, averaging 8 to 10 feet in height. Near the 
 mouth the land becomes more marshy, and a considerable area westward appears to be 
 entirely an open marsh. The open country to the eastward is flat, and is made up of 
 marsh, ponds, and tundra. The only high ground in the general vicinity is "Hog Back," 
 a rounded ridge about 300 feet high lying 5 miles east from the entrance. Some distance 
 back from the coast, 13 to IS miles, is seen the range of hills or mountains trending to the 
 southwestward, which extend in that direction to where the Yukon makes its great bend to 
 get around the end of this ridge. On these low, flat shores there are often remarkable 
 mirage effects, tending greatly to magnify insignificant objects. 
 
 Bar. — Off the mouth of Apoon Pass, and for some distance northwestward, the 
 bottom is nearly flat, having a depth of about 3 feet of water at low tide, and with little 
 choice as to a channel. All but very light-draft vessels must time their departure from 
 St. Michael so as to cross these flats at high tide, or must wait for the tide. From a x'oint 
 about halfway between the mouths of tlie Pastoliak and Pastolik rivers there is a distinct 
 channel, having two sharjj bends in it, leading into the Apoon, with a minimum depth in 
 1898 of 4t feet at low tide. The channel from the Pastolik shore into the river was well 
 marked during the season of 1809 by tripods of boiler tubes at short intervals on each side. 
 On account of the ice, however, any marks would have to be replaced each season. 
 
 THE APOON AND KWIKPAK PASSES. 
 
 The distance between the Apoon mouth and the head of the delta is traversed by 
 going up the Apoon Pass about 31 miles to where it branches off from the Kwikpak Pass, 
 and then up the Kwikpak about 30 miles to the head of the delta, where it and the Kwiklowak 
 Peiss separate the Yukon into two principal mouths. 
 
 The Apoon Pass has a narrow and tortuous channel, averaging less than ^ mile in 
 width between banks. The channel is ratlier difiScult from the entrance to opposite'Kotlik, 
 the worst place being the shoals at the mouth of the Kotlik River. The channel is very 
 narrow here, with but 5 feet at low tide, and close to the lower point of the island in front 
 of Kotlik. As it is necessary to cross the bar on or near high water, the portion from 
 Kotlik down is naturally traver.sed with a water above mean tide, which makes navigation 
 simpler and easier. 
 
 Above Kotlik there is good water and no difficulty except between the shoals where the 
 OkAvega makes off. Here there is a shoal making ujistream from the lower point of 
 Okwega outlet, and also a shoal in the middle of the Apoon abreast it. The channel, with 
 7 feet, is between the two shoals. The only other troublesome place in the Apoon is where 
 it branches from the Kwikpak. Here for 2 miles upstream it is full of shifting bars and 
 shoals. There is a crossing carrying 5 feet, but no directions can be given for its location. 
 Beyond this point there is no difficulty in navigating the Kwikpak until the crossing at 
 New Fort Hamilton is readied, 15 miles upstream. Here the channel and shoals are con- 
 stantly shifting and the lead is the best guide. There are no other difficulties in navigating 
 the Kwikpak, when free of ice. 
 
 The Aproka is characteristic of many of the narrow channels in the delta. It is a 
 cut-off' about 14 miles below the head of the delta between the Kwikpak and the Kwiklowak 
 passes. The cut-off is about 7 miles long, and, if going from the lower portion of tlie 
 Kwikpak to the Kwiklowak, b\- taking this route a saving of about 30 miles will bo made. 
 The Aproka, although crooked, is deep all the way through, with the exception of the 
 entrances, where there are only about 4 to 5 feet. 
 
 Inhabitants. — The natives are inostly migratory, living at different places at different 
 seasons. Their principal settlement, after leaving St. Michael Island, is on the Pastolik 
 River. They are generally good-natured and extremely curious and friendly. The first
 
 44 BULLETIN NO. 40 — SECOND EDITION. 
 
 white resident soutlnvest from St. Michael is a half-breed Russian trader, by the name of 
 Komkoflf, living at Kotlik, about G miles from the Apoon mouth, on the Kotlik River, a 
 short distance from and in sight of the Apoon. Here is a store, a rude Greek church, and 
 a few dwellings. There is no other white settlement until New Fort Hamilton is reached, 
 on the Kwikpak 36 miles above Kotlik, where there is a station of the North American 
 Trading and Transportation Company. 
 
 Pilots. — River steamboats in general carry Eskimo pilots, who may be hired at St. 
 Michael and at various places on the river. They are, as a rule, familiar only with a portion 
 of the river, those from St. Michael usually going up as far as Andreafski. A number of 
 native pilots live at the village near the mouth of the Pastolik River. A pilot is necessary 
 in following the Apoon unless familiar with or in possession of a minute sketch directory. 
 The Eskimos are generally quick-witted and have a good eye for the water ; but some who 
 offer their services as pilots have little idea of the requirements of a steamer, being used 
 only to their own skin boats. 
 
 Tides. — The tides at this entrance, as is the case with the shores of eastern Norton 
 Sound, are greatly affected by the winds, northerly and easterly ones making low waters, 
 and southerly and southwesterly ones making high waters. The wind effect may be sufli- 
 cient to entirely obliterate the natural tidal conditions. The effect of the tides reach above 
 the head of the delta. At the head of the Kwik^jak Pass the rise and fall is about G 
 inches. (See tide table, pages 10, 11, 12.) 
 
 Current. — The ordinary outflow of the Apoon is much less rapid than other mouths 
 of the Yukon ; but there is a tidal inflow and outflow, the strength of which depends upon 
 the amount of the rise and fall of the tide at any particular time. 
 
 Ice. — In the fall thin ice begins to run in the river the latter part of September, and 
 navigation in October is attended with danger of being frozen in. It is more than probable 
 that the movement and clogging of the ice in the breaking up of the river in spring has 
 much to do with the location and peculiarities of the channels and with clearing it perfectly 
 from snags. 
 
 Supplies. — Immediately within the Apoon mouth the water is fresh, and that on the 
 flats outside, close in, is nearly so, the degree of freshness depending upon the stage of the 
 tide. 
 
 Cord wood is cut and sold by the natives along the river from the mouth up. Small 
 wood piles can be seen at frec^uent intervals. That in the delta, and more particularly near 
 the mouth, is of inferior quality, being cut from wet driftwood. The price of cord wood, 
 as well as of pilot services, has been very materially increased since the beginning of the 
 Klondike excitement. 
 
 SAILING DIRECTIONS, ST. MICHAEL BAY TO APOON MOUTH. 
 
 Coast around the north shore of St. Michael Island, giving Rock Point a berth of not 
 less than 1 mile, and the shore between Stephens Mountain and Cape Stephens a berth of 
 not less than j mile. From abreast the Alaska Commercial Company's dock to Cape 
 Stephens is 13 miles. 
 
 When Cape Stephens bears E. by S., distant J mile, steer S. by W. | W. for 25 miles, 
 which will bring the summit of Point Romanof abeam and distant Ih miles; then change 
 coiirse to SSW. j W. for about 14 miles. In crossing the flats northwestward of the Apoon 
 Pass, strangers must be guided by the charts and any beacons and buoys that may be placed. 
 
 The foregoing S. by W. I W. course crosses, at about one-third the distance from Cape 
 Stephens to Point Romanof, a shoaler place, with about 4 feet at mean low tide. If this 
 course is being made at or near low water, it is preferable to go farther seaward. The 
 two following courses, covering the same stretch, will carry not less than G feet at mean 
 low tide : 
 
 When Cape Stephens bears E. by S., distant i mile, steer SSW. I W. for 124 miles, then 
 change course to S. and continue for I'-ii miles, which should bring the summit of Point
 
 BEIUNG SEA AM) AIU'TIC OCEAN. 45 
 
 Roinanof abeam and distant lA miles; then \ise the fonrse SSW. ', W. Point Romanof to 
 Apoou Bar, as before. 
 
 THE KAWAXAK (t)K KAVIKPAK) BAK AXD I'ASS. 
 
 This is the middle one of the three important passes of the Ynkon Delta. The entrance 
 from the sea is 95 miles from St. Michael by way of the Yukon flats, and is in latitude 
 62° 57' N., longitude 165° 11' W., 13 miles offshore. 
 
 The channel carries 10 feet over the outer bar at low water, and 9 feet over the inner 
 shoal which is in sight of the coast. Two lines of breakers lie on either side of the outer 
 bar. From the seaward entrance tlie channel to the mouth of the jiass is 20i miles. It is 
 narrow and crooked, not feasible for navigation, and for the last 10 miles inshore there are 
 numerous shoals exposed at low tide on the seaward side of the channel. The coast is low 
 and marshy, being only about 3 feet above low tide, and is not visible until halfway up 
 the channel. This part of the delta is 10 miles farther west than shown on recent charts. 
 
 From the mouth of the pass, 18 feet can be carried with little difficulty to New Fort 
 Hamilton on the Kwlkpak, a distance of 35 miles. 
 
 Kawanak Pass from its mouth to where it joins the Kwikpak runs generally parallel 
 to the latter for 30 miles, and carries much the lai"ger volume of water. 
 
 Currents. — The maximiim velocity does not exceed 3 knots. 
 
 Inhabitants. — There are only natives in this jiart of the delta. Two summer villages 
 are about 4 miles up from the mouth of the pass. 
 
 Weather. — The weather is similar to that in the other parts of the delta. 
 
 THE lOVIKLOW AK* BAR AKD PASS. 
 
 Thi.s outlet is by far the largest of any of the passes leading to the Yukon. The entrance 
 is 125 miles by water from St. Michael, and about 80 miles by way of the fiats from the 
 Apoon mouth. The nearest harbor for vessels under medium size is Scammon Bay, a 
 distance of 00 miles from the entrance and about 42 miles from the Kwiklowak Bar crossing. 
 About 6 feet, at mean low tide, can be carried in over the Kwiklowak Bar through the 
 Acharon Channel. The crossing place is about IG miles southwest fi-om tlie entrance, 
 and about 4 miles off the low shore, which can not be seen until within 3 or 4 miles of it. 
 When once well inside the entrance, the pass has remarkably good channels, which are easy 
 of navigation and free from rocks and .snags. Its minimum de])th between the entrance 
 and the head of the delta is 20 feet, and this depth can be carried up the Yukon as far 
 as the survey of 1899 extended, to near Andreafski. There are several stretches where the 
 dejith is more than 50 feet, and- at some places depths as great as 84 feet were found. 
 
 Tlie lower portion oi tlie Kwiklowak, which is confined" between continuous banks, 
 is about J mile wide, after leaving which there is a very abrui^t physical change in its 
 condition by spreading out northward and westwar<l, with numerous minor cliannels, 
 while the main river widens to about If miles; beyond tliis it spreads out over the flats, 
 through which its main channel is only fairly well defined at extremely low tides. All the 
 slioals and flats are covered at high water, and there are no islands or bare slioals off the 
 entrance at high tide. Besides the Acharon there are four other channels at this mouth 
 leading out on the bar in widely divergent directions. Some of these carry aci'oss tlie liar 
 slightly greater depths than the Acharon, but all are nai'row, crooked, and bordered l)y 
 shoals bare at extreme low tides. N<mc of them afford a practicalile entrance for deep- 
 water vessels at the present time. 
 
 The main cliannels are every wliore free fnnn snags, though trees are sometimes seen 
 temporarily lodged on the bars, and quantities of driftwood are piled along the shores in 
 places. Undoubtedly the ice freezes in and carries oil' the snags when it goes out each 
 season. The channels and banks show indications of changing rapidly both from erosion 
 
 •Ou the older charts culled Kunilvuk.
 
 46 BULLEXIX SO. 40 — SKCOXD EDITION. 
 
 and deposit. Very probably much of this is effected each year during the breaking up of 
 the ice, its consequent jams, and the great floods following. 
 
 The land along the outer shores is only a foot or two above high water, is covered only 
 with low marsh grass, and is entirely lost to view when but a few miles offshore. The only 
 landmarks visible in clear weather are the .sharp peaks of Kusilvak Mountain and the 
 Askinuk Mountains back of Cape Romanzof, all very distant and often obscured by clouds 
 or mist. The extreme flatness of the laud and the remarkable mirage effect, often seen over 
 the shoals when bare, make the whole region deceptive at times. When well inside the 
 confined banks of the Kwiklowak, the country on each side is covered with an almost con- 
 tinuous growth of willow and alder bushes. The water has a brownish-white appearance, 
 something like glacial water, without its fine, sharp grit. It has no unpleasant taste, and 
 is always fresh in the inner channel. 
 
 Inhabitants. — No white men live in the delta south of the Apoon except the Catholic 
 missionaries at a summer fishing station. There are large Eskimo settlements at the 
 mouths of the Kwiklowak and Kripuiyuk rivers. The natives are friendly and honest, and 
 will attempt to pilot boats, with more or less success. 
 
 Currents. — None were observed to exceed 3 knots i^er hour. In the delta channels 
 currents were observed varying from 0.5 to l.G knots. The velocities were greater in the 
 bar channels and up the river. 
 
 Weather. — The prevailing winds in summer are northeasterly, easterly, and south- 
 easterly ; the strong blows are believed to come from the same directions. Fogs were un- 
 usual, but there was a good deal of thick mist and rain. 
 
 The Kripniyuk River entrance is narrow, crooked, and has a stronger tidal current 
 than the Kwiklowak. 
 
 COAST FROM CAPE 1S03IE TO BEKIXG STRAIT. 
 
 Cape Nome is a bluff, about 300 feet high, apparently 1 mile broad, and rounded 
 down to the water on either side, where there is low land at the shore, with higher laud 
 farther back. The water off this cape is quite deep. 
 
 Sledge Island, about 25 miles west of Cape Nome and 4 to 5 miles offshore, is a rocky, 
 fiat-topped island rising over 600 feet above the water, and comparatively rounded in out- 
 line. There is a native village on a small, rocky slope on the east side; excepting this and 
 a short sand spit making oft" from the northern end of the i.sland, the shores are very steep. 
 The island may be safely approached fi'om any direction, and anchorage may be had on all 
 sides of it ; rocky bottom is reported in some localities. A least depth of 6^ fathoms has 
 been found in mid-channel between the island and the mainland. This island is shown too 
 far offshore on the charts. 
 
 From Cape Nome to Point Rodney the shore, except abreast of Sledge Island, is a com- 
 paratively straight stretch of low sand beach with no protecting points aud the higher land 
 some distance back. Abreast of Sledge Island for a distance of several miles the hills slope 
 down to the beach, giving this part of the coast the appearance of a point. The stretch of 
 beach is broken bj- a number of small rivers where mining operations are being carried on. 
 The entrances to Nome River, Snake River, and Sinrock River have shifting bars, but there 
 is generally water enoiigh in the channels over these bars to permit light-draft river steamers 
 to enter. When approaching the shore, between Cape Nome and Point Rodney, the 
 water shoals regularly and gradually until a depth of 5 fathoms is reached; inside this 
 depth the bottom is irregiilar, especially near the mouths of the rivers. Near Cape Nome 
 the 5-fathom curve is from ^ to | mile, while near Point Rodney it is from 1 mile to 1^ 
 miles from the shore. Nome City is on the beach at the mouth of the Snake River, about 
 11 miles to the westward of Cape Nome. The general anchorage for deep-draft vessels is in 7 
 fathoms of water, about 1 mile from the beach abreast of the town. Vessels of less draft 
 anchor in 5 fathoms, a little closer in to the beach, but it is not advisable to anchor in less
 
 BERIJTG SEA A^^I> AncTIC OCEAN. 47 
 
 than 5 fathoms of water. In strong sontlicrly winds no landing can be made on the boach, 
 and the anchorage is unsafe. Southerly winds raise the water on the shore and uortliorly 
 winds lower it. 
 
 A small shoal, with about 17 feet of water over it, is reported as lying about 8 miles to 
 the westward of Cape Nome and about 1| miles offshore; a depth of 23 feet was found just 
 inshore of this shoal. 
 
 From Point Rodney to Cape Douglas the shore is a low sand beach, tlie high land is farther 
 inland from the beach than eastward of Point Rodney. This stretch of the coast is seldom 
 approached close-to; the water is comparatively shallow, and vessels are cautioned to 
 exercise care when approaching tlie shore. 
 
 Currents. — A tidal current is perceptible from Cape Nome to Point Rodney, but the 
 strongest current sets northwestward; lying at anchor, vessels usually tail to the north- 
 westward. Above Point Rodney there is no perceptible current southward or eastward; 
 the general set is northward and westward. 
 
 King Island is rugged and rocky, about 2 miles square, and 600 feet high. It has 
 nearly perpendicular cliffs, deep water, and generally rocky bottom on all sides. There is 
 a native village on the south side, the houses being built in the sides of the cliffs some dis- 
 tance above the water. Off the village, but close inshore, vessels may anchor in about 15 
 fathoms, muddy bottom, with good protection from northwest winds. In clear weather the 
 island is an excellent landfall for vessels coming from the southward and boitnd to Port 
 Clarence. 
 
 Cape York, at the shore line, is a high, rocky, nearly vertical cliff', with numerous 
 distinct ravines, and a range of high, rugged mountains immediately back of it. The cliff 
 is about 10 to 12 miles in extent. There is no distinct promontory, and no exact point 
 along the cliff" that can be defined as the cape. The water shoals slightly off the western 
 end of the cliff', but nothing less than 6 fathoms will be found at a distance of 2\ miles 
 from shore. 
 
 Between Cape York and the high land of Cape Prince of Wales there is a bight, with 
 comparatively low, rolling land back of it extending across the peninsula to the northern 
 .shore. The beach is low, and the water shoals gradually when approaching the shore. 
 The eastern part of the bight is slightly shoaler than the western part, about G fathoms 
 will be found 1 mile off'shore; in the western part of the bight 8 fathoms will be found at 
 the same distance from the beach. When standing westward along shore, and when abreast 
 of Cape Prince of Wales Mountain, the water deepens suddenly to 20 fathoms. 
 
 PORT CliARENCE. 
 
 This is a good harbor, close to the strait, free from ocean swell, and is the rendezvous 
 for the arctic whaling fleet, that here await the tender from San Francisco which supplies 
 them with coal and provisions and takes back the oil and whalebone of the spring catch. 
 As a general rule, the tender to the whaling fleet arrives at Port Clarence from July 1 to 5, 
 without encountering much heavy ice. The bay itself is clear of ice about June 25 to 30. 
 There are three native settlements on the northeast side of the bay, and the natives assem- 
 ble on Point Spencer in the early part of July for trade with the whaling vessels. 
 
 The bay is formed by a sand sjjit which extends from tlie mainland west and then 
 north, terminating in Point Spencer in latitude 05° IG' 40" N., longitude 1GG° 47' 50" W. 
 The end of the point is quite bold-to and can be approached as close as i mile, with depth 
 of 7 fathoms. The channel between Point Spencer and Point Jackson, on the north shore, 
 is ab(jut 4 miles wide, clear of danger, and carries from 7 to 9 fathoms. One and one-half 
 miles south of Point Spencer a shoal makes into the bay from the sand spit, having depths 
 of 2^ fathoms 1 mile oft'. The northern half of the bay has a general depth of 7 fathoms 
 as close as 1 mile from the shore; the southern half of the bay shoals gradually from tliis 
 depth toward the shore, and the extreme southern part is very shoal. The north shore is
 
 48 BULLETIN NO. 40 SECOND EDITION. 
 
 clear of danger, and can be ajjproached as close as i mile, the soundings decreasing regu- 
 larly to the beach. 
 
 Port Clarence connects at its northeast end with Grantley Harbor, which is 3 to 4 
 miles wide, abovit 12 miles long, and connects at its eastern end by a narrow, difficult chan- 
 nel with a lai'ge lake farther inland. The mouth of the harbor is formed by two sand spits 
 which slightly overlap. The water westward of the sand spits is shoal, but there is a 
 channel close to the north one which can be used by vessels drawing 12 feet or less, but 
 which should be sounded out before attempting to enter. Inside the harbor the depths 
 range from 2^ to 3 fathoms, and it is larobable that a draft of 12 feet can be taken through 
 the channel to the lake. Vessels have gone into Grantley Hurboi' to heave down and 
 repair on the north sand spit. 
 
 Fresh. Water can be obtained in several i>laces in Port Clarence, the best being from 
 a stream on the east side south ?f Cape Riley and bearing ESE. ^ E. from Point Spencer. 
 
 Anchorage. — The anchorage used by the whaling fleet is in 5 fathoms, just inside 
 Point Spencer. 
 
 Yog. — In this vicinity fog is quite prevalent and very dense in summer. 
 
 Tides. — See tide table, pages 10, 11. Southwesterly winds increase and northeasterly 
 winds decrease the height of tide. 
 
 Current. — Outside of Point Sjjencer the ciirrent sets northwestward with a velocity 
 of 1 to 2 knots per hour. 
 
 GElSrERAL, DIRECTIONS TO PORT CliARElSTCE. 
 
 In approaching Port Clarence in thick or misty weather the long, low spit of sand and 
 shingle which forms the west side of the bay is not seen until it is close-to. The best course 
 from the southward is to steer directly for Cape York, bearing in mind the set of the 
 current to the northwestward, and after making Cape York follow along the coast east- 
 ward until the entrance to Port Clarence is made out, then steer for the anchorage just 
 inside Point Spencer. Between Cape York and Point Jackson depths of 7 to 9 fathoms are 
 found about 2 miles offshore. 
 
 Dangers. — A shoal having a least reported depth of IJ fathoms lies nearly 5 miles off- 
 shore and about halfway between Cape Douglass and Point Spencer, and vessels should 
 keep well outside of it. Extending about west-northwest from this shoal toward Cape York 
 is a ridge having hard bottom and depths ranging from 4 fathoTns near its southeastern end 
 to 5 fathoms in about the latitude of Point Spencer. This ridge extends nearly to the north 
 shore. It is recommended that vessels approaching Port Clarence give the lowland 
 between Cape Douglass and Point Spencer a berth of not less than 5 miles before hauling in 
 for the entrance.
 
 BERIIfG SEA AND ARCTIC OCEAN. 49 
 
 ARCTIC OCEAN. 
 
 The remarks on tlie luivigation of Beriu"- Sea (pages 7, 8, 9 ) apply generally to tlie Arctic 
 Ocean as far as Point Barrow, except that the current and soundings in the Arctic are more 
 uniform, and, with the exception of the shoals at Cape Prince of Wales, Hotham Inlet, 
 Blossom Shoals, and Point Franklin, thei-e are no outlying dangers, and the lead is an 
 excellent guide in approaching the land. Another exception is that in the Arctic the 
 question of ice must always be considered. The following remarks on the navigation, 
 weather, and currents of the Arctic Ocean, by Capt. M. A. Healy, R. C. S., contained in 
 the report of the cruise of the Revenue Steamer Corwin in the Arctic Ocean, 1884, thoiigh 
 relating to an extreme season, may be of interest to those navigating these waters : 
 
 "In my previous experience in the Arctic I have never seen a season like the past. 
 From the time of first reaching the ice up to leaving the Arctic dense fog has been almost 
 constant. Currents that have hitherto been considered jiermanent in direction, if not in 
 force, have become erratic, and others have entirely failed. The ice fell back before the 
 sun's advance slowly and compactly. For three weeks after we reached the Diomede 
 Islands it refused entrance into Kotzebue Sound, and three weeks later still it was hanging 
 with discouraging tenacity around Point Hope. It was un.safe to anchor with anj'' but a 
 short scope, moving steam had to be kept, and constant vigilance exercised to prevent being 
 dragged ashore by fields of ice moving in the rapid and changing currents. For weeks at 
 a time it was impossible to take observations, dead reckoning was almost worthless, owing 
 to the continual changes in force and direction of the currents, and the safety of the ship 
 depended entirely on the constant use of the lead. Fortunately for those who are obliged 
 to sail this frozen ocean, the depth of water is not so groat but what bottom can always be 
 obtained, and the proximity of land is indicated by regular shoaling, with but few excep- 
 tions. Yet with this aid and the best charts that we have, several years' experience is 
 necessary to enable the navigator to judge with any degree of precision the position of the 
 ship. Anyone at all familiar with coasting knows how difficult it is to recognize land in a 
 fog where marks are well defined— high bluffs often appearing like low beaches and small 
 rocks looming to gigantic size, while the general contour of tlie small portion of the shore 
 visible may be taken for almost any land that one expects to make. How much more 
 difficult must it be where the formation of the shore for miles differs but little, as is the 
 case in the Arctic. 
 
 "Among the best landmarks that we have in these northern waters are the bird rook- 
 eries. There is one at King Island, one at the Diomedes, one at Cape Sepjiings, one at Cape 
 Thompson, and one at Cape Lisburne. The distance between these rookeries enables one 
 to form a very accurate idea of the one he is approaching, while the cries of birds congre- 
 gated at them admirably answers the purpose of a fog signal. With one or two exceptions, 
 these are the only aids to navigation in this foggy, unsurveyed, and dangerous sea. 
 
 "In the shallow waters of this ocean the effect of the wind on the currents is perhaps 
 more marked than in any other i>a''t of the globe. 
 
 "Inside the Arctic circle snow has fallen all the jjast season, and it may almost bo said 
 that there has been no summer. As late as August 27 ice was within a few miles of Capo 
 Sabine, and at the Sea Horse Islands it was heavy and dangerous. Tlie pack at this time 
 was still to the southward of Point Barrow, and there were few indications that vessels 
 would be able to go to the eastward of that place this season. During the latter part of 
 our stay the weather was exceptionally severe. About the Fox Islands heavy storms were 
 frecjuent and rain almost incessant. Advices received in San Francisco since my arrival 
 confirmed my opinion as to vessels l)eing able to weather Point Barrow this yeai*. 
 
 "The e.fpei'ience of many years in the Arctic has demonstrated tlie fact that no rules 
 whatever can be given as to the time of the breaking uj) of the ice. The severity of the
 
 50 BULLETIN NO. 40 — SECOND EDITION. 
 
 winter, the time at winch spring weather opens, and the beginning of southerly winds that 
 break up the ice, all have their influence in governing this time. Vessels have been able to 
 enter St. Michael as earlj^ as May 21 ; this year we found ice to the southward of St. Mat- 
 thew Island on June 2, and some days later still in the season vessels have been stopped by 
 it between the Seal Islands and Nunivak. The southern limit of the ice is almost entirely 
 dependent on the severity of the winter. Heavy southerly winds and swell will break up 
 the ice, and if followed by northerly winds it will open oiit and the waters become naviga- 
 ble. When once broken up, if the weather is mild, it will not cement again if nipping, and 
 consequently will open more readily to light winds. Northeast winds tend to drive the 
 ice off the American shore and westerly winds off the Siberian side. With these few 
 exceptions little can be said of ice conditions. 
 
 ' ' In clear weather the ice blink indicates the presence of ice, and it may be seen a great 
 distance, but in thick, foggy weather approach to the jiack must be made with great caution. 
 Its proximity is usually indicated by the slack, and when this once begins to be seen about 
 the vessel it may be judged that a large body is not far distant. As the pack is neared one 
 sees only ice as far as the eye can reach. It rises from 10 to 25 feet above the water, in all 
 manner of fantastic forms and shapes, presents all colors of blue, from an indigo to an 
 almost white, and glistens in the sun's bleak rays with a splendor blinding to the naked eye. 
 It is a well-known fact that the depth of water and the surroiinding features of this ocean 
 render the formation of gigantic icebergs an impossibility, and no mountains of ice add the 
 sublimity and terror of their presence to the pack, yet there is in this harmless-looking body 
 that which man can never conquer. Inside its solid front no vessel can penetrate, and once 
 caught within its grasp it is almost a miracle that she ever escapes. No ship can be built 
 that will stand its crushing force, and no ram be made so powerful as to break its way 
 through it. It is only when the elements combine against it that man can invade its domain. 
 
 ' ' When a pack is reached it usually becomes necessary to track along its edge to find a 
 lead. Whoever is piloting the ship takes his place at the masthead, and with glass in hand 
 seeks for a favorable opening. Oftentimes daj's are spent working ujd and down along the 
 ice without clear water presenting itself, and when it does extreme caution must be used in 
 entering the lead. It is here that the judgment and experience of the ice pilot become a 
 necessity. The weather, currents, appearance of the ice, probable winds, and a dozen otlier 
 things that would never enter the mind of the novice, are to be taken into consideration 
 before the vessel's head is turned into the pack. Once it is determined to enter the lead 
 vigilance must be doubled and every faculty kept on the alert. The vessel is conned from 
 the masthead, and, while directing how the helm must be put to keep clear of immediate 
 danger, the pilot must be looking ahead for the clearest water, and watching ice, sea, and 
 sky for change of currents and winds. If any signs of the closing-in of the lead are presented 
 the vessel must be got out as soon as possible, for, if shut in and she escai^es being crushed, 
 she will go to the northward in the drifting pack from 1 to 3 knots per hour, and it will 
 become necessary to abandon her. If the lead followed up is between the ground ice and 
 the pack and the wind comes on shore, a safe place can sometimes be found behind the 
 ground ice. A vessel may be made fast to this ice with grapnels, or anchored to leeward of 
 it, and lay with comparative safety. If anchored in a current, however, with drifting ice 
 about her, the scope of chain must be short, and everything kept in readiness for getting 
 under way at a moment's notice. If anchored in shoal water, it is desirable to get in the 
 ice as far as possible to avoid the swell; but if the water is deep the ice should be avoided. 
 Generally the presence of the ice tends to kill the swell, and it will be found much smoother 
 inside the ice than out. 
 
 "The bowhead whale keeps as far to the northward as he can find spouting holes, and 
 to take him the whalers are obliged to keep as close to the pack as possible. Usually they 
 track along the Asiatic side in Bering Sea and Strait, and, as they reach the Arctic, cross 
 over and work up the American shore to the northward and eastward. In Bering Sea there 
 is verj^ little danger in entering the ice, as it is almost sure to open and offer a chance to
 
 lilCIUNC; SKA AM) AIICTIC OCEAN. al 
 
 esc.ij)e before reucliiiig the Arctic. With a knowledge of this fact, whalers sometimes enter 
 the ice to the southward of the strait and endeavor to work through it if they have reason 
 to believe, from the sudden disappearance of the whale, that there is clear water to the 
 northward. In the Arctic, however, the pack is carefully avoided, and it is only when 
 conditions are most favorable that attempts are made to follow up the leads. Point Barrow 
 is approached with the greatest caution, as it is one of the most dangerous places in the 
 Arctic. As has already been mentioned, by far the major portion of the vessels lost in the 
 Arctic are wrecked in its vicinity." 
 
 lOE. — Bering Strait is free of ice by the first week in July and sometimes earlier, but 
 clear water does not extend very far to the northward, and it is seldom possible for vessels 
 not fitted to encounter ice to reach Point Hope before July 10-15. Kotzebue Sound is 
 usually open by July 15, at times a few days earlier, but it has been known to remain 
 closed until the last of Jnlj. The running ice from Kotzebiie Sound is encountered at 
 Point Hope .some time after the pack has moved to the northward. By July 15 the main 
 pack has moved north of Cape Lisburne. 
 
 Thus far the movement of the ice does not appear to depend to such a great extent on 
 the winds, it is reasonably certain each year, and dates can be depended upon within a 
 small limit of time ; but north of Cape Lisburne the movement is generally slow, uncertain, 
 varying greatly in point of time in different years, and seems to depend almost wholly on 
 the winds for its further movement. Prevailing northeasterly winds move it away from 
 the shore rapidly and early, while southwesterly or westerly winds hold it against the shore 
 and make a late season. 
 
 From Icy Cajje north no specific time can be set for the opening of navigation. Its 
 variations are from July 12 to the latter part of August, though an average date for the 
 whaling vessels to reach Point Barrow is about August 1. Between these points in the 
 early part of the season the ice is always dangerously near the shore, and southwesterly or 
 westerly winds will bring it in. Later, the southei-n point of the pack is just off Sea Horse 
 Islands and generally remains there the rest of the season. From the Sea Horse Islands to 
 Point Barrow the pack is seldom far offshore, and from the latter point can almost always be 
 seen. During the open season it is always liable to come in on these two points with a 
 westerly wind. 
 
 Beyond Icy Cape there is always danger to vessels, and strangers should be cautious 
 and careful in going there. In the lead of open water between the pack and the shore the 
 current is swift and nearly always carries drift ice, and vessels rarely reach Point Barrow at 
 any time without encountering some ice. The ice can not be forced, and vessels should not 
 venture into small leads between the pack and shore ice. With a southwesterly or westerly 
 wind, which brings the ice in, vessels seek protection east of Point Barrow when it is open, 
 in Peard Bay close in as possible, and under the lea of heavy ground ice, which acts as a 
 breakwater against the smaller cakes. In anchoring where there is drifting ice vessels 
 should use a short scope and be ready to get under way immediately. A comparatively 
 small cake will sometimes cause the loss of an anchor and chain. In the vicinity of Point 
 Barrow sailing vessels should not go offshore in water too deep to anchor, as in light winds 
 or calms the current is likely to take them into the pack. Navigation east of Point Barrow 
 is such that it should oidy be attempted by those having experience. 
 
 As a rule, the pack does not come down on Point Barrow before the latter part of Sep- 
 tember, but in 1897 it came down the first of September, and, in general, exce])t for whaling 
 vessels, whose officers are men of long experience in judging the ice, weather, etc., Septem- 
 ber 1 is as late a date as vessels should remain in that vicinity. About this time, or a little 
 later, young ice begins to make in the lagoons, aknig the shore, and around the old ice, 
 though it is not likely to form in the open sea until the last of the month. The ytning ice 
 makes stronger and spreads over the open sea with the advancing season. It is dangerous 
 to vessels, and will very quickly cut through one not sheathed to withstand it. Ordinary 
 vessels should be out of Kotzebue Sound by September 15 to 20, and out of the Arctic by
 
 52 BULLETIN NO. 40 — SECOND EDITION. 
 
 October 1. The whaling vessels make it a rule to be ready to leave there about October 10, 
 and though there may be times when they stay later, these are exceiDtious. 
 
 At times there is a body of ice, which holds on the Siberian shore through the summer, 
 that moves down past East Cape into the western side of Bering Strait, sometimes as early 
 as the latter part of August, and makes that side of the strait difficult of navigation late in 
 the season. 
 
 AA'EATHER. — In summer the weather is usually light, with much fog and rain. The 
 winds are variable, though mostly easterly and southerly. There are seldom gales in sum- 
 mer, but occasionally, sometimes with intervals of years, there come southwesterly gales, 
 short-lived but very severe and disastrous, as there is little protection from winds in that 
 quarter. In the vicinity of the ice the weather is nearly always light and foggy. Later in 
 the season it grows more boisterous, gales are freciueut and more generally from the north- 
 ward, and as the weather grows colder there is considerable snow. 
 
 CURREKTS. — From Bering Strait to Point Barrow there is a general current setting 
 northward alongshore (stronger inshore), which, when not affected by winds or stopped 
 by the ice, has a velocity of not less than 1 knot at any part of it. The current from 
 the strait turns northeastward and is joined north of Cape Krusenstern by that from 
 Kotzebue Sound. From Eschscholtz Bay a northerly current sets along-shore on the eastern 
 side of Kutzebue Sound, having a velocity of from ^ to 1 knot at Cape Blossom. It continues 
 past Cape Krusenstern, where it is increased by the flow from Hotham Inlet to a velocity 
 of 1 to 2 knots, and to the northward of the cape joins the current from Bering Strait, where, 
 in the latter part of July and August, its velocity is from H to 2 knots. It continues with 
 the same velocity around Point Hope, then with a reduced velocity to Cape Lisburne and 
 across to a short distance south of Point Lay. After rounding Point Hope, and thence to 
 Icy Cape, the current does not api)ear so strong, and, as a rule, is aboitt 1 knot. 
 
 In the bight between Cape Lisburne and Cape Beaufort there is a tidal current, and, 
 rtnless driven in l)y a westerly wind, the outside genertil current is not felt. 
 
 Northward of Point Lay, if the ice has not opened up from the shore, the current 
 is stopped ; but if the ice is open to Point Barrow the current continues along the shore 
 and, because of the contracted space between the shore and the ice, increases in velocity 
 to from 2 to 3 knots, and sometimes more, at Point Barrow. 
 
 This general current is more or less affected by the wind, and may be decreased or even 
 stopped at times by northerly winds, but when the wind abates it starts again. When the 
 wind is with the current its velocity is increased. Well offshore the currents are variable and 
 not so strong, and depend to a great extent on the winds. There is, however, a general 
 set to the northward. 
 
 Cape Prince of Wales, seen from the southward, is a high mottntain peak, compara- 
 tively regular in outline; on the south and southwest sides the slope of the mountain 
 comes down to the sea. The face of the cape is a low sand beach, which extends north- 
 northwest 3 to 4 miles from the base of the mountain, and then trends northeastward toward 
 Shishmaref Inlet. On this sand beach, close to the mountain, is the native village of 
 Kingegan, the largest on the northern coast. Just back of the village a ridge extends sev- 
 eral miles northward from the peak, distinguished by a number of ragged points and large 
 fragments of rock on top. 
 
 On approaching the cape from the south westward, nothing less than 30 fathoms of water 
 can be had at a distance of f mile from the highland at its southwestern extremity. From 
 this point the 20-fathom line runs nearly northwest, gradually increasing its distance from 
 shore, until 5 miles to the northward, where it is 3 miles offshore. The 3-fathom line, com- 
 mencing very close to the southwest point, increases, almost at once, its distance from the 
 shore line to 1 mile, continuing at that distance until the cape makes northeastward, where 
 it joins, i^resumably. Cape Prince of Wales Shoal.
 
 BEIUXG SEA AXI) ARCTIC UCKAX. 53 
 
 Cape Prince of Wales Shoal seems to be a ridge of sand, wliich extends about north- 
 nortlnvest from the western extremity of the cape to a distance of about 30 miles. The 
 depth of water on the shoal is not definitely known, but numerous cases are reported of 
 whaling vessels having struck on it at distances supposed to be 10 or 15 miles from the cape. 
 The western face of the shoal is very steep, the depth decreasing rapidly from 20 fathoms. 
 It is recommended that vessels give this slioal a wide berth, and not haul to the eastward 
 when coming from the southward until at a distance of 25 to 30 miles from the cape. Vessels 
 bound southward through the strait should be careful not to fall too far eastward and 
 be caught between the shoal and the northern shore, especially sailing vessels with 
 northerly or northeasterly winds. 
 
 Vessels making an anchorage ull the native village of Kingegan at Cape Prince of 
 Wales should approach it only from the southwestward. The soundings decreaise rapidly 
 from 13 fathoms, and anchorage should not be made in less than 7 fathoms. During the 
 open season the current sweeps by the cape northward with a velocity of from 2 to 3 knots, 
 and care should be taken in making an anchorage here not to be swept by this current upon 
 the shoal. 
 
 FairAvay Rock is a high, square-headed, steep-sided rock. The bottom is steep-to on 
 all sides, and there are no outlying dangers. 
 
 Big and Little Diomede Islands rise abruptly from the sea, with nearly perpendicular 
 sides ; tliey are steep-to, and there are no beaches. The tops of the islands are a sort of 
 broken table-land. The larger island is about 1,700 feet high, the smaller somewhat lower. 
 In their vicinity the water is deep with generally rocky bottom, and the anchorage is poor. 
 There are some rocks above water close to shore on the west side of the larger one. The 
 native village on the larger island is on the southwest side, off which vessels can anchor in 
 14 fathoms, sandy bottom. The channel between the islands is about 2 miles wide. It is 
 not generally used, but whaling vessels have passed through, carrying 20 fathoms of water, 
 favoring the side of the channel next the larger island. There is a native village on a rocky 
 sloj)e on the smaller island facing this channel, off which a reef of rocks and sand is said to 
 extend a short distance into the channel. 
 
 East Cape is a bold, rugged headland, about 2,500 feet high, steep on all sides, and with 
 deep water qiiite close-to. It has low, marshy land back of it, and when seen at a distance 
 appears as an island. There are no dangers off the land, and except at the anchorages the 
 water is deep with rocky bottom. There is good anchorage (in 8 fathoms), with good shelter 
 from offshore winds, on both the north and south sides of the cape, where the lowland back 
 of it begins. There is also an anchorage (in 10 fathoms, muddy bottom) off the native 
 village on the face of the cape. 
 
 From Cape Prince of Wales to Shishmaref Inlet the coast is a low sand beach, with 
 lagoons and marshes back of it. On a clear day the mountains in the interior can bo seen, 
 The Ears and Conical Hill being distinguishable. 
 
 Shishmaref Inlet is a large inlet extending into the land, but it has never been explored. 
 Across its mcjuth is a low sand island, with shallow (Openings at each end. Shoal water 
 extends off the mouth of the inlet several miles. 
 
 From Shishmaref Inlet to Cape Kspenherq the coast is higher than that westward of 
 the inlet, and is a line of low bluff's and small sand dunes, terminating at Cape Espenberg 
 in a very low sjnt, which is made out with difficulty. A number of small native settlements 
 are scattered along this coast from Cape Prince of Wales to Cape Espenberg. 
 
 KOTZEBUE SOUND. 
 
 Kotzebue Sound is about 30 miles wide at its entrance between Cape Espenberg and 
 Cai)e Krusenstern, 22 miles wide from Capo Espenljerg to the shoal water off" the mouth of 
 Hotham Inlet, and extends about 30 miles south of Cape Espenberg. Except for the shoal 
 off the mouth of Hotham Iidet, the soundings throughout the sound are very uniform, vary- 
 ing from 7 to ',i fathoms. Fi-om Cape Espenberg the west shore of the sound is shallow some
 
 54 BULLETIN NO. 10 — SKC'OXD EDITION. 
 
 distance from tlie land, and vessels should approacli it with care. The laud on this side of 
 the sound is generally low. There is a small but conspicuous hill aboiit halfway between 
 the cape and the southern shore. On the south side of the sound the laud is higher, more 
 rockj'', and of a bolder character than the west shore. Under water, also, it is bold, and has 
 soundings of 4 and 5 fathoms quite close to the ])romontories. 
 
 Chamisso Island, at the entrance to Eschscholtz Bay, is a small, rounded island having 
 a grassy hill 2ol feet high. Its shores are rocky, except its northeast end, which is a low 
 sand sjiit. Almig its north and east sides shoal water extends from ^ to i mile offshore. 
 
 Puffin Island, west of Chamisso Island, is a rocky islet, with two conspicuous rocks 
 southward of it. Between the island and rocks and Chamisso Islaud the water is shoal and 
 rocky. The water on the north and west sides of Puffin Island is bold-to. 
 
 CUAIMISSO AXOUORAGE, between Chamisso Island and Choris Peninsula, is the 
 only place on the Arctic coast of Alaska that can be called a harbor. By shifting anchorage 
 i- mile good shelter can be found from all winds. Off Choris Peninsula shoal water extends 
 toward Chamisso Island fully 1 mile. The deepest water is close to Puffin Island. In 
 approaching the anchorage give Point Garnet, the southwest extremity of Choris Peninsula, 
 a berth of 1 mile, and stand down well toward Puffin Island liefore hauling in. Anchor 
 with Puffin Island bearing S., at a distance not greater than J mile, in 8 fathoms, muddy 
 bottom. 
 
 Early in the season, fresh water can be obtained on Chamisso Island, and on the east 
 side of Choris Peninsula. 
 
 Tides. — See tide table, pages 10, 11. 
 
 Eschscholtz Bay, east of Chamisso Island and Choris Peninsula, is generally shoal. 
 The soundings decrease gradually from Chamisso Anchorage to 2^ fathoms at 3 miles off 
 the point which lies 4 miles west of Elephant Point. East of this point the shoaling con- 
 tinues, and this part of the bay is only navigable for small boats. The shore at the head 
 of the bay is difficult of access on account of long, muddy flats, which, at low water, are 
 bare in some places ^ mile from the beach. It is probable that the whole bay is gradually 
 filling up, and vessels going east of Chamisso Anchorage should proceed with caution. 
 Buckland River, a large but shallow river, empties into the head of the bay. There are few 
 natives in its vicinity. 
 
 Choris Peninsula, forming the western side of Eschscholtz Ba,j, has two hills, about 
 300 feet high, separated by a low, sandy neck. Northward of Choris Peninsula the land 
 is low for some distance, and then rises into low, perpendicular bluffs which continue to 
 Hotham Inlet. These bhiffs are coniposed of ice and frozen mud, which is gradually melt- 
 ing and sliding down, making deep furrows all along their face. 
 
 Cape Blossom is a distinctly marked point in this line of bluffs, whitdi are highest at 
 the cape and slope to either side. 
 
 The bottom of this side of the sotind is very even southward of Cape Blossom at a 
 distance of about 5 miles from the land ; but northward of the cape a shoal, with very little 
 water on it, extends 8 to 10 miles off the land from the mouth of Hotham Inlet, and south 
 to within 2 miles of the latitude of Cape Blossom. This shoal is very dangerous, as the 
 soundings give short warning of its proximity, the distance from the shore can not be judged 
 under ordinary conditions, and there are no good landmarks. 
 
 The general anchorage in^this vicinity is off Cape Blossom, as it is the nearest poiut 
 from which commuuieation can be had with Hotham Inlet. In approaching the cape, it 
 should not be brought to bear to the eastward of ENE. until in the vicinity of the anchorage. 
 Anchor in 5 fathoms with the cape bearing between ENE. and E. by N., distant 3 miles. 
 This anchorage is protected from northerly and easterly winds. There is generally a cur- 
 rent, strongest in the early part of the season, having a velocity of from 1 to 1 knot, setting 
 northwestward. 
 
 The coast from Cape Blossom to the mouth of Hotham Inlet is the jilace of rendezvous 
 for the natives of the surrounding country for the pitrpose of fishing and trading. The
 
 CAPE BLOSSOM, E. BY N., DISTANT 3 MILES.
 
 BERING SEA AXD ARCTIC OCEAN. 55 
 
 coast natives fi-om Cape Piunce of Wales, including the Diomedes and King Island, to Point 
 Hope assemble here about the last of July to meet those who come down the large rivers 
 from the interior. 
 
 IIOTlIAM iXLiET is about 35 miles in length and from 4 to 8 miles in width. Its gen- 
 eral trend is southeast; its water is little influenced by tides, but a prolonged southeast wind 
 causes a low stage. The entrance is obstructed by vast mud flats and sand bars, some of 
 which are bare at low water There is a shifting channel whitdi is dillicult to trace, running 
 close along the shore from Cape Blossom north into the inlet, through which 4 to 5 feet can 
 be carried. In the inlet proper the channel is said to have from 2 to 4 fathoms, and to 
 gradually shoal toward its head. There are three large rivers emptying into the inlet. 
 
 The Noatak River, joining it at the north, has numerous rapids and is not navigable 
 for any distance for boats larger than' native canoes. The natives portage from the head- 
 waters of this river to the Ikpikpuug River, and thus to the Artie Ocean east of Point 
 Barrow. 
 
 Th(; Kowak River emijties at the east side of the inlet by many mouths, oft" which 
 shoals having from "2 to 4 feet of water extend far oiit into the inlet. In crossing the bar it 
 is somewhat difficult to find a channel, but when fairly between the banks of the river there 
 is comparatively deep water. In 1898 a large number of prospectors were attracted to the 
 region of Hotliam Inlet. Two stern-wheel steamers were used in transporting their sujJ- 
 plies up the Kowak River, and ir is said that these steamers ascended the river 200 miles. 
 The current in the river was found very strong, running at some points with a velocity of 
 5 or 6 miles an hour. This current is dangerous for small boats; eight men lo.st their lives 
 in 1898 while boating their provisions up the river. Tlie natives portage from the head- 
 waters of the Kowak River to the Koyukuk River, a branch of the Yukon. 
 
 Selawik Lake is the prolongation of the head of Hotliam Inlet eastward, and it has a 
 large river, Selawik River, emptying into it at its head. 
 
 From Hotliam Inlet to Cape Krusenstern the coast is a low beach. The shoal water 
 from the mouth of the inlet extends nearly halfway to the cape ; the face of the shoal is 
 steep and should be api^roached carefully. From wliere the shoal joins the land to Cape 
 Krusenstern there is good water close in, with regular soundings. 
 
 Cape Krusenstern. — Back of Cape Krusenstern there is a high, prominent range of 
 mountains, which can be seen at a long distance. On nearer approach the mountains are 
 seen to fall away to the cape in a series of steps, and, in shaping a course into the sound, 
 the.se cliffs, or steps, must not be mistaken for the cape, which is a low point extending 
 about 3 miles westward of them. A shoal extends about 3 miles westward and northwai'd 
 off the point of the cape. 
 
 From Cape Krusenstern to Cape Seppings the C(jast is a low, shingly beach, back of 
 wliich is a series of lagoons, which discharge their waters through small, shallow openings. 
 The high land of Cape Krusenstern extends along this coast some distance inland, termi- 
 nating in the Mulgrave Hills, about 30 miles northwestward. After passing Mulgrave 
 Hills the land is an extensive plain until in the vicinity of Cape Seppings. Here the 
 mountains approach close to the coast and slope down to the shore. Cape Seppings and 
 Cape Th(mipsou are not distinct, and it is difficult to determine the points to which the 
 names should be apjilied. 
 
 In the vicinity of Cape Thompson, for a distance of G miles, the mountains break off 
 directly to the water in a scries of alirupt cliffs about 500 feet high. The shore line is gen- 
 erally straight alul there are no distinct promontories in the line of clift's. What was prob- 
 ably named Cape Thompson is a rugged mountain face, about in the center of tins line of 
 cliffs, having at its southern end a very distinct series of strata, in the form of an irregular 
 semicircde. In the ravine south of this point there is a small stream, from which good water 
 can easily be obtained. Directly off the watering place anchorage may be had in 5 fathoms, 
 sandy bottom. At other points along the cliffs the bottom is generally rocky.
 
 56 BULLETIN NO. 40 — SECOND EDITION. 
 
 From Cape Thompson the mountains continue north-northwest to Cape Lishurne, while 
 the coast curves to the northwestward and westward to Point Hope. 
 
 Point Hope is the western extremity of a low tongue of land which projects almost 16 
 miles from the general line of the coast mountain range. It has a steep shingle beach, and 
 its surface is broken by a number of lagoons. The largest of these, Marryat Inlet, has 
 its entrance on the north side, close to where the coast trends northward, and a draft of 
 10 feet can be carried through the entrance. For a number of years some small schooners 
 have been using this inlet as a place to winter. Those not familiar should sound out the 
 channel before entering. In the tirst of the season, when the ice breaks in the inlet, there 
 is a strong current running out and the moving ice is more or less dangerous. There is a 
 large native village on the end of Point Hope, and scattered on the south side, from the end 
 of the point to Cape T]iomi-)son, are a number of whaling stations conducted by white men, 
 which are maintained throughoiit the year. 
 
 lu the bight just north of tiie high land of Cape Thompson the water is somewhat 
 shoaler than farther west, though the soundings are regular. Seven miles east of Point 
 Hope there is a 3-fathom shoal nearly 1 mile offshore. As the point is approached the 
 water deepens, and toward its end 8 fathoms can be carried to within ^ mile of the beach. 
 The tip of the point is very bold, there being 13 fathoms a few ships' lengths from .shore; 
 but on rounding the point to the north side the soundings decrease rapidly to 5 fathoms i 
 mile from shore, and, in general, the water in the bight on the north side of the point is 
 shoaler than on the south side. At the mouth of Marryat Inlet shoal water extends off 
 some distance. 
 
 There is a narrow shoal with a depth of 4- fathoms at its southern end and lying about 
 2^ miles NW. from Point Hope. This shoal extends in a general "WNW. direction for a 
 distance of 3 miles from the i-fathom spot, and has a general depth of 5 to 6 fathoms over it. 
 
 From the mouth of Marryat Inlet to Cape Lisburne the mountains lie along the coast 
 and terminate at the shore line in rugged, rocky cliff's. There are a few ravines through the 
 cliffs, having running streams, with beaches at the shore, where fresh water can be obtained. 
 
 Cape Lisburne is a bare, brown mountain, 850 feet high, forming a rugged headland 
 that is distinctly marked by the number of pinnacles and scattered rocks near its summit. 
 Its faces at the shore are very steep. At the cape the shore line changes its direction abruptly 
 to E. by N. There are no outlying rocks, but there is a ridge extending 5 miles to the 
 northeastward from the cape, on which 5 fathoms can be found at a distance of 2 to 3 miles 
 from the laud. Off this cape the wind rushes down from the mountains in gusts of great 
 violence and varying directions, and with oft'shore winds A^essels should keep well off the 
 land in passing. 
 
 From Cape Lisburne to Cape Sabine the land is lower and loses the rugged character of 
 that southward of the former cape. The hills are rounded and rolling, regular in outline, 
 and slope to the sea. Toward Cape Sabine the land becomes a series of ridges and valleys 
 running inland; both terminate at the coast in bluffs. 
 
 Cape Sabine is the end of one of these ridges, and projects but slightly from the general 
 line of coast. 
 
 Coal. — Veins of coal are found from Cape Thompson to Cape Beaufort. In the face of 
 the bluffs at Cape Sabine some veins, varying in thickness from 1 to 4 feet, have been worked 
 by whaling vessels. The veins show plainly along the top of the bluffs directly at the shore. 
 The use of the coal is limited, owing to its poor quality and the difficulties in obtaining it, 
 and it is not recommended to depend upon it except in case of necessity. 
 
 From Cape Sabine to Cape Beaufort the land continues of a rolling character until 
 nearing the latter cape, which is a dark mountain coming down directly to the shore. There 
 is no break in the shore line at the cape, and it probably received its name as such because 
 seen at a distance. This is the most northern extension of high land on the coast of Alaska. 
 The mountains at this point ti'end inland and the coast continues low.
 
 "7 
 
 BKKlNCi SKA AND AKCTIC OCKAX. Ot 
 
 The biglit from Cape Lisburne to Cape Beaufort is comparatively sliallow, but the 
 bottom is regular, and anchorage may be had anywhere alongshore from 1 to 2 miles from 
 land. Dii-ectly off Cape Beaufort the water is shoalei" than elsewhere betweeu it and Cajxi 
 Lisburne. There are numerous valleys along this part of the coast, nearly all of which 
 have streams of good water. North of Cape Beaufort it is almost impossible to obtain fresh 
 water on the coast. 
 
 About 10 miles north of Cape Beaufort is the southern end of a lai"ge lagoon, which 
 stretches along the coast without a break to within a few miles of Wainwright Inlet. 
 Separating this lagoon from the ocean is a narrow strip of sand beach, elevated but a few 
 feet above the water, with several small, shallow openings througli it south of Icy Cape, 
 and two considerable openings north of that cape. The land on the inside of the lagoon is 
 generally low, but in coasting along, some small bluffs with low, rolling land back of them 
 can be seen in places. South of Icy Cape the lagoon has three large rivers emptying into it, 
 and its whole extent is filled with flats and bars that make it scarcelj"- navigable even for 
 native canoes. North of Icy Cape the water in the lagoon is deeper. Througli an opening 
 about 10 to VZ miles from the cape 8 feet of water can be safely carried, with from 2 to 3 
 fathoms inside. The channel is close to the sand spit on the south side of the entrance. 
 Another opening, 10 to 12 miles farther north, is somewhat shallower. 
 
 Point Lay and Icy Cape are merely bends in the sand spit forming the coast. Both 
 places can be distinguished by some hummocks on the beach. The beacon formerly marking 
 Icy Cape is partly gone, and is now difficult to make out. 
 
 From Cape Beaufort to Icy Cape the bottom is regular, and tlie shore can bu approached 
 closer than in that part of the bight west of the former cape. When coasting it should lie 
 remembered that off the openings into the lagoon the water is shoaler than on either side. 
 
 Blossom Shoals extend 6 to 8 miles oft' Icy Cape, and consist of a number of banks 
 parallel with the shore. These shoals are greater in extent than shown on any chart, and, 
 from the grounding of vessels and observation, appear to be spreading. In api^roachiug the 
 shoals the bottom is lumpy and the soundings irregular. Of late years, on account of 
 frequent grounding in unexpected places about the edge of the shoals, the whaling vessels 
 all unite in giving them a wide berth; and it is recommended that vessels rounding Icy 
 Cape should keep outside of 12 fathoms. 
 
 Wainwright Inlet, about 40 miles from Icy Cape, is a moderate-sized lagoon, and has 
 a river emptying at its liead. Its entrance, between Point Marsh and Point Collie, is a 
 narrow, difficult channel, through which 8 to 10 feet can be carried. Inside the water is 
 deeper. Off the mouth of the inlet the water is shoal fully 1 mile from land. 
 
 The coast from Point Collie to Point Belcher is a continuous line of mud cliff's until 
 within a few miles of the latter point. 
 
 At Point Belcher the coast again becomes a shingle beach, with lagoons inside, and 
 back of it low, rolling hills, which are higher than any other land that can be seen north of 
 Cajie Beaufort. North of the point the coast continues in a very low sand beach to Sea 
 Horse Islands. 
 
 Sea Horse ■ Islands and Point Franklin are the highest points of a continuous sand 
 bank which extends from a point 8 miles north of Point Belcher to Point Franklin, thence 
 turning abruptly east to the mainland at Peard Bay incloses a large lagoon. The first two 
 islands from Point Belcher are higher than the rest of the bank, and their position seems to 
 be permanent. The openings between the islands are, as a rule, very shallow and contin- 
 iially changing. Former ojjeningsare now closed, and openings now occur in the positions 
 of former banks. Point Franklin is a veiy small sand island, witli several h^^mmocks on 
 it. It is so small and far removed from the other islands that it is not easily made out. 
 The greatest changes in the bank occur in that part of it between Point Franklin and Peard 
 Baj', of which wliat is above water is merely a narrow stri]> of sand.
 
 58 BULLETIN yO. 40 — SECOXD EDITION. 
 
 . In the vicinity of Sea Horse Islands the water is shoal, especially off the openings and 
 Point Franklin. Off Point Franklin a shoal makes out several miles northward and 
 northeastward, and vessels ronnding the point should give it a berth of 4 to 5 miles. 
 
 Peard Bay, eastward of Point Franklin, is a deep bight, which is often used by 
 whalers in heavy southerly and soiithwest winds, and for protection from ice when it sets 
 toward the shore. The bottom of the bay is regular, and the soundings decrease gradually 
 to the shore. The water is deeper along the mainland than on the south side along the 
 sand spit making out to Point Franklin. 
 
 The coast from Peard Bay to Cape Smyth is a line of mud cliffs from 25 to 70 feet high, 
 being highest at what is called Skull Cliff. From this point they become gradually lower 
 to Cape Smyth, where they end. The coast curves regularlj'- northward, and there are no 
 jn-ojecting points. The cliffs are broken by numerous small rivers. There are beaches at 
 the moutlis of the rivers, but little or none along the face of the cliffs. 
 
 Cape Smyth is not a projecting point, and can not be distinguished as a cape. There 
 is a large native village at the end of the mud cliff's at this point. The United States signal 
 station and refuge station, formerly here, are not now maintained, but there is a large 
 whaling station conducted by white men. 
 
 From Cape Smyth to Elson Bay the coast is low with a grassy plain back of it ; but 
 from the head of Elson Bay to Point Barrow the coast is a narrow sand spit. 
 
 Off'shore from Refuge Inlet to the head of Elson Bay the water is deep, and soundings 
 of 15 fathoms are found about 3 miles from the land. The water then shoals evenly to 7 
 fathoms at about 1 mile from shore. The depths then lessen rapidly to from 2^ to :5 fathoms 
 about f miles offshore, where there is a slight ridge shoved up by the ice, and which in the 
 early part of the season is always marked by heavy ground ice. Inside and close to this 
 ridge the water deepens again to from 3 to 4 fathoms, and vessels seek this inside passage for 
 protection from the ice when necessary. The ridge ends in a 24-fathom shoal about 1^ 
 miles offshore where the high land ends and the sand spit begins at the head of Elson Bay. 
 From this point to Point Barrow, depths of 3^ to 4 fathoms can be carried very close up to 
 the sand spit, and there is apparently ni) ridge in the bottom as in that to the southward. 
 
 At Point Barrow, latitude 71° 23' 31" N., longitude 156° 21' 30" W., the most northern 
 point of Alaska, the sand spit forming the coast turns abruptly eastward. There is a 
 native village on the end of the point. Directly oft' the point the water is fairly bold-to, and 
 3 fathoms can be carried to within ^ mile of the shore. Farther offshore the deepest water 
 of this part of the Arctic Ocean is found. On rounding the point eastward the water 
 becomes shoal, and the coast can seldom be approached anywhere closer than 2 miles. 
 About 2 miles east of Point Barrow is Moore Channel, the entrance to Elson Bay, where 
 H. M. S. Plover wintered in 1852-53-54. A shoal with least depth of 2 fathoms makes off' 
 from the point on the east side of the channel, and extends westward, from ^ to J mile oft' 
 the sand spit, and ends nearly opposite the native village on Point Barrow. Inside the shoal 
 there is a channel leading to Moore Channel, with nothing less than 3 fathoms, and deeper 
 water in Moore Channel. This channel is often used as an anchorage for protection from 
 the ice, as heavj' ice grounds on the outer shoal.
 
 IN^DEX. 
 
 A. 
 
 Page. 
 
 Acharoii Channel 45 
 
 Acherk narbor 16 
 
 Agencies ^ 
 
 Akun Cove 20 
 
 Akun Head 1^ 
 
 Akutan Harbor -- -^ 
 
 Akutuu Island '8 
 
 Akutan Pass 21 
 
 Aleks Hock - 18 
 
 Aniak Island 20 
 
 Aiiderpon Rock 18 
 
 ApooD Pass 42,43 
 
 Aproka Channel 43 
 
 Arctic Ocean 49 
 
 Avatanak It-land 17 
 
 B. 
 
 Beaver Inlet 21 
 
 Bering Sea 7 
 
 Besboru Island 38 
 
 Beulah Island 37 
 
 Black Rock •_ 31) 
 
 Blossom Shoals 57 
 
 Bristol Bay 25 
 
 C. 
 
 Cape Beaufurt 56 
 
 Cape BIo88oni o4 
 
 Cape Cheerful 22 
 
 Cajie Cliibukak 36 
 
 Ciipe Constantino 29 
 
 Cape Corwin 34 
 
 Cape Darby 38 
 
 Cape Denbigh 38 
 
 Cape Etulin—. 34 
 
 Cape Glast-nap 25 
 
 Cape (ircig 28 
 
 CapeKulekhta 19,22 
 
 Cape Khituk — 19,20 
 
 Cajie Krallegak 35 
 
 Capi; Kruscnstcni 55 
 
 Cape Kntuzof 27 
 
 Cape I*ui)iu , 25 
 
 Capo fiazarof lO 
 
 Capo Lisburne 5G 
 
 Cape iMendeuhalI___ 34 
 
 Capo Mohican , -54 
 
 Cajje Morgan 18 
 
 Cape Newenham iiO 
 
 Cape Nome — 46 
 
 Capft Pankof 15 
 
 Capo Peirce 30 
 
 Cape i'rince of Wales 52 
 
 Cajie Prince of Wales Shoal 63 
 
 Cape Romanzof 36 
 
 Cape Sabine 56 
 
 Cape Saritchey „ ___ 19,25 
 
 Cape Seniavino 27 
 
 Cape Seppings 55 
 
 Capo Smyth - 58 
 
 Cape Thomi>son 55 
 
 Cape Upright _._ _. 33 
 
 Capo Vanrouvor 36 
 
 Cape V'ork 47 
 
 Carolyn Inland 39 
 
 Cave Point 25 
 
 Chainisao Anchorage 64 
 
 Chaniisso Island 54 
 
 Charts, List of 6 
 
 Pago. 
 
 Chestakof It=land 28 
 
 Oboris Peninsula 54 
 
 Clarks Point — 29 
 
 Coal Bluff 26 
 
 Coast from Cape Kniscnstern to Cape Seppings 55 
 
 Coast from Cape Nome to Beiiiig Strait 46 
 
 Coast i\\iiu Cape Xouie to Point Koduey 46 
 
 Coast from Cape Vancouver to Scammon Bay 36 
 
 Coast from Ilotham Inlet to Cape Krusenstero 55 
 
 Coast from Isanotski Strait to Unimak Pass 15 
 
 Coast from Port Moller to Kuskokwim River 27 
 
 Coast from I'oint Rodney to Cape Doughiss 47 
 
 Coast from St. Michael to Apoou Mouth, Yukon River 41,42 
 
 Coast from St. Michael Bay to Tolstoi Point 38 
 
 Coast from Unimak Pass to Port Moller 25 
 
 Constantine Bay 22 
 
 Crooked Island 29 
 
 I>. 
 
 Dora Harbor 
 
 Dutch Harbor 
 
 Doe Point 
 
 Diomcde Islands _ 
 
 Eagle Rock 
 
 Kast Anchor Cove 
 
 East Cape 
 
 Egg Island, Norton Sound. 
 Egg Island, Uualga Pass... 
 
 English Bay 
 
 Entrance Point 
 
 Esclischoltz Bay 
 
 F. 
 
 Fairway Rock 
 
 Flat Top Rock 
 
 Fox Islands Passes. 
 
 IG 
 23 
 26 
 53 
 
 26 
 IC 
 53 
 38 
 18 
 21 
 26 
 54 
 
 53 
 19 
 17 
 
 G. 
 
 Gardrn Cove - 31 
 
 General Directions, Isanotski Strait to St. Michael 41 
 
 General Directions to Port Clarence 48 
 
 General Directions, Unalga Pass 21 
 
 General Directions, Unimak Pass 20 
 
 General Directions, Unimak Pass and Unalaska Bay to St. 
 
 Michael - 39,40,41 
 
 .__ _ 33 
 
 39 
 
 „ 39 
 
 48 
 
 _ _ _ _ 18 
 
 Glory of Russia Cape-. 
 
 Golofnin Jiay 
 
 Golofnin Sound 
 
 Grantlcy Harbor 
 
 Gull Rocks — 
 
 H. 
 
 Hagemeister Channel _ 
 Ilagenieister Island — 
 
 Hague Channel 
 
 Half Tide Rock 
 
 Hall Island 
 
 Harbor Point 
 
 Hereniieen Bay 
 
 High Island 
 
 Hog Rack 
 
 Hotham Inlet 
 
 IceconditioueaudFirtit Annual Arrival of Vessels at St. Michael 
 
 Icy (.'ape — — — — -— — 
 
 Ikalan Bay 
 
 Iliulink — — - 
 
 30 
 30 
 27 
 26 
 34 
 26 
 25 
 29 
 43 
 55 
 
 14 
 
 67 
 
 15,16 
 
 23 
 
 (59)
 
 60 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Page. 
 
 Iliulink Bay 22 
 
 Iliulmk Harbor 23 
 
 Iliuliuk Koef 24 
 
 It^aDotski Mount iUQ 17 
 
 leanotski Stniit 14 
 
 Izenbeck Bay 25 
 
 J. 
 
 Johnston Channel — _ 27 
 
 K. 
 
 Kalekhta Bay 21 
 
 Kawanak (Kwikpak) Baraud Pass 45 
 
 Khndiakof Islands 2G 
 
 Kbudubin Islands 2(> 
 
 Kina: Island 47 
 
 Kutlik 4:i 
 
 Kotzebue Sound vi'i 
 
 Kowak River 5,i 
 
 Kripuiyuk River 40 
 
 Kuskokwiin River 30 
 
 Kwiklowak Baraud Pass 45 
 
 L. 
 
 Lenard Rock 18 
 
 Lords Harbor 16 
 
 M. 
 
 Mail Routes 9, 10 
 
 Makiisbin Cape 24 
 
 Makushiu Volcano 2:i 
 
 Marryat Inlet 5(i 
 
 Meteorological Conditions, Bristol Bay 30 
 
 Mine Harbor 27 
 
 Moore Channel 58 
 
 Morzhovoi Bay 15 
 
 Morzhovoi Peninsula IJ 
 
 Naknck River 28 
 
 Nichols Hills 28 
 
 Noatak River 55 
 
 North Anchorage 31 
 
 Northeast Cape 35 
 
 North Head 19 
 
 North Hill 32 
 
 Northwest Cape 25 
 
 Norton Bay 38 
 
 Norton Sound 37 
 
 Nuuivak Island • 34 
 
 Nushagak River 28 
 
 O. 
 
 Okwega River 43 
 
 Old Mau 18 
 
 Otter Island 32 
 
 P. 
 
 PavStoliak River , 42 
 
 Peard Bay 58 
 
 Pikmiktnltk River 42 
 
 Pinnacle Island 33 
 
 Pinnacle Rock 24 
 
 Pogrnmuoi Volcano 17, 25 
 
 Point Barrow 58 
 
 Point Belcher 57 
 
 Point Divide 26 
 
 Poini Franklin 57 
 
 Point Hope 5G 
 
 Point Lay r 57 
 
 Point Riimanof 42 
 
 Port Clarence 47 
 
 Port Haiden 2S 
 
 Port Moller 26 
 
 Port Safety 39 
 
 Pribilof Islands __ 31 
 
 Priest Rock 20,22 
 
 Princess Head 22 
 
 Promontory Cove 16 
 
 Page. 
 
 Promontory, The 16 
 
 Puffin Island __ 54 
 
 Punuk Islands 35 
 
 R. 
 
 Reef Point 32 
 
 R.icky Point, Norton Round 38, 41 
 
 Rocky Point, Unalaska Bay 24 
 
 Rootok Island 18 
 
 Round Island 29 
 
 S. 
 
 Sailing Directions, Herendcen Bay 26 
 
 Sailing Directions, Port Moller 26 
 
 Sailing Directions, St. Michael Bay to A]inon Mouth, Yukon 
 
 River 1 44 
 
 Sailing Directions, Unalaska Bay 23 
 
 Sannak Islands 15 
 
 Sarychef Strait 34 
 
 Scammon Bay 36 
 
 Scotch Cap 19 
 
 Seahorse Islands 57 
 
 Seal Cape 19 
 
 Sea Lion Neck :}2 
 
 Seal Islands 28 
 
 Selawik Lake 55 
 
 Shaw Bay 25 
 
 Shingle Point _ 27 
 
 Shisbaldiu Volcano 17,25 
 
 Shishmaref Inlet 53 
 
 Signals, The 18 
 
 Sledge Island 46 
 
 Southeast Cape 35 
 
 Southwest Point 32 
 
 St. George Island 31 
 
 St. Lawrence Island 35 
 
 St. Matthew Island 33 
 
 St. Michael 38 
 
 St. Michael Canal 42 
 
 St. Michael Island 37 
 
 St. Paul Island __ 32 
 
 Stony Point 32 
 
 Stuart Island _ 37 
 
 Summer Bay 22 
 
 T. 
 
 Tides, General Table 10,11 
 
 Tide Table, St. Michael 12,13 
 
 Tigalda Island , 17 
 
 Tolstoi Point _ _ 38 
 
 Tuscarora Rock 25 
 
 Twins, The 29 
 
 IT. 
 
 Uganiok Island 17 
 
 Ugasbik River _ 28 
 
 UlakhtaHead 22,24 
 
 Unalga Island 18 
 
 Unalga Pass 21 
 
 Unalaska Bay 22 
 
 Unimak Pass 20 
 
 Unimak Pass to Cape Kalekhta 19 
 
 V. 
 
 Variation of the Compiuss 10 
 
 W. 
 
 Wainwright Inlet 57 
 
 AValrus Group, The 29 
 
 Walrus Island ' 32 
 
 West Anchor Cove 16 
 
 Whale Island 37 
 
 Wislovv Island 24 
 
 X, 
 
 Yukon Flats 37,40 
 
 Z. 
 
 Zapadui Bay 31
 
 boo 561 578 6